# Hot Dryer



## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

From my bedroom, When I put my hand on the wall right that's behind where the electric dryer is located in the adjoining laundry room, the drywall is very very hot.

Could there be a lint clog in the vent pipe?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Only one way to find out, should be cleaned out as well as the vent on the outside at least every year anyway. If it's inside a wall it needs to be solid metal pipe.


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Agree with Joe, vent pipe would need to be cleaned and inspected to make sure nothing came apart or broke inside the wall.

Are the clothes taking too long to dry? Can you feel the exhaust at the outlet, should be forceful not weak.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

If there's a bedroom on the other side of the dryer, how does that vent pipe get out?

Worst case, someone used the wall cavity as the duct. Check it at both ends.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

ChuckF. said:


> If there's a bedroom on the other side of the dryer, how does that vent pipe get out?
> 
> Worst case, someone used the wall cavity as the duct. Check it at both ends.



The vent pipe enters the wall cavity that seperates the toilet and the bedroom and rises all the way to the building's roof, where it exhausts.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

jmon said:


> Agree with Joe, vent pipe would need to be cleaned and inspected to make sure nothing came apart or broke inside the wall.
> 
> Are the clothes taking too long to dry? Can you feel the exhaust at the outlet, should be forceful not weak.



The dryer is relatively new and we dont have any long drying time issues. What do you mean "can I feel the exhaust at the outlet?"


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## GrayHair (Apr 9, 2015)

Solidify said:


> What do you mean "can I feel the exhaust at the outlet?"


exhaust* =* air movement
outlet* =* "... the building's roof, where it exhausts."


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Solidify said:


> The dryer is relatively new and we dont have any long drying time issues. What do you mean "can I feel the exhaust at the outlet?"


A relatively new dryer, will have a relatively lint free blower. So its moving more heat through the duct. So your wall is warmer then with the older dryer. 

Borrow an IR camera, and check the wall to make sure its not a separated duct.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

beenthere said:


> A relatively new dryer, will have a relatively lint free blower. So its moving more heat through the duct. So your wall is warmer then with the older dryer.
> 
> Borrow an IR camera, and check the wall to make sure its not a separated duct.



My dryer has a lint filter, which we clean periodically.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Solidify said:


> My dryer has a lint filter, which we clean periodically.



No lint screen stops all of the lint.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'd have to go on the roof to check the exhaust. Been from the looks of it, the heat it centralized on the wall so I have a feeling the pipe is still in tact and simply sitting against the drywall on my bedroom side.

In other words, I only feel heat on the wall roughly the length equivalent to the diameter of the exhaust pipe that's supposed to be in the wall.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Lint free blower moving more air then the old one did, so now you can feel the warmth in the wall.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

beenthere said:


> Lint free blower moving more air then the old one did, so now you can feel the warmth in the wall.



When we moved into the home we never had/used a dryer so we have no reference point. This is a new dryer, about a year old.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The dryer's air temp is fairly high, so it will warm your wall.


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## Trapper6 (Nov 25, 2015)

The screen filter on the dryer doesn't catch all of the lint. Being wet, it has a tendency to build up on the pipe. If you have a good leaf blower, disconnect the pipe at the wall. Run the blower about 2-3" back from the wall opening to build a venturi effect which increases the volume of air and run it about a full minute. Now go check the roof for lint. If you see a bunch of lint on the roof, do it again. If the piping is VERY hot as you say, this is a recognized fire hazard and house fires happen far too often. It's a good thing to add to your spring cleaning to blow the pipe out and also the dryer. Just reverse the air flow in the dryer with the blower and then turn it on to blow the loose junk out. I do mine every year and it takes about 30 minutes tops.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Trapper6 said:


> The screen filter on the dryer doesn't catch all of the lint. Being wet, it has a tendency to build up on the pipe. If you have a good leaf blower, disconnect the pipe at the wall. Run the blower about 2-3" back from the wall opening to build a venturi effect which increases the volume of air and run it about a full minute. Now go check the roof for lint. If you see a bunch of lint on the roof, do it again. If the piping is VERY hot as you say, this is a recognized fire hazard and house fires happen far too often. It's a good thing to add to your spring cleaning to blow the pipe out and also the dryer. Just reverse the air flow in the dryer with the blower and then turn it on to blow the loose junk out. I do mine every year and it takes about 30 minutes tops.



If I use my leaf blower to blow into the wall pipe, can it possibly clogs the exhaust with lint further or will it all come out on the roof? I hope to not have to go on the roof because it's quite a project. It's a three story building (triplex).


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

beenthere said:


> The dryer's air temp is fairly high, so it will warm your wall.



So your advice is that this is "normal" to have the wall hot like this?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Solidify said:


> If I use my leaf blower to blow into the wall pipe, can it possibly clogs the exhaust with lint further or will it all come out on the roof? I hope to not have to go on the roof because it's quite a project. It's a three story building (triplex).


Being a 3 level building the chances of the vent looking similar to this one is really good because of condensation, in my opinion, and a leaf blower ain't gonna do it no matter how much we would like for it to be that simple.

I couldn't sleep very well until I found the truth about the condition internally and it wouldn't be very smart for someone to say, yes it is normal for the wall to be hot being there was never an actual temperature mentioned.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'll try to go on the roof sometime this week because it's just too cold today.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I used my leaf blower to blow into the pipe for a minute like someone instructed. I then stopped. A couple of minutes later, I went again for another minute and the instant I started for the second time, a pack of leaves came out of the pipe into the toilet.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)




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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I just gotta get through winter because it's getting too cold to go on the roof now. In the spring, I'll go up and see if that's where the problem lies.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I don't know, never had one with that much vertical run, so can't recall checking into it, but that sounds like a lot of rise to me. So first thing I would do is check the owners manual, and, if not covered there, contact the manufacturer to see what remedial actions may be required? Booster? Also, have you ever been up to where it goes through the roof? The leaves obviously don't belong, so maybe you have further obstruction around the vent.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

DexterII said:


> I don't know, never had one with that much vertical run, so can't recall checking into it, but that sounds like a lot of rise to me. So first thing I would do is check the owners manual, and, if not covered there, contact the manufacturer to see what remedial actions may be required? Booster? Also, have you ever been up to where it goes through the roof? The leaves obviously don't belong, so maybe you have further obstruction around the vent.



I've never been on the roof. I'll take a look in the spring, even if it means not using the dryer (or less/on low heat) this winter.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Solidify said:


> So your advice is that this is "normal" to have the wall hot like this?


100°F plus air blowing through the duct. The duct is uninsulated. The wall is going to get warm. If the pipe is metal pipe, and not PVC.

If the pipe is clogged, your dryer won't dry your cloths very well.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

What is the standard for dryer pipe in new constructions? I ask because mine is metal uninsulated pipe that goes two stories to the roof.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Uninsulated metal pipe.


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## Trapper6 (Nov 25, 2015)

If you are on the bottom floor of a 3 story building and the pipe extends thru the roof, it is a code violation by IRC standards. IRC allows a max length of 25 feet and for every 90 degree turn deduct 5 feet. The building may be old enough that it would be grand fathered and not subject to IRC. If you have a fire station close by, I'd stop by and ask about it. They will probably come by and inspect it for free. The down side is that they may make you disconnect as well as the other tenants for safety reasons. This sounds like a fire waiting to happen. The wall might get warm but you are stating VERY HOT. That's not the same thing.
Do you own the property or renting? Makes a huge difference in requirements.
Food for thought
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dryer+vent+fire


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Trapper6 said:


> If you are on the bottom floor of a 3 story building and the pipe extends thru the roof, it is a code violation by IRC standards. IRC allows a max length of 25 feet and for every 90 degree turn deduct 5 feet. The building may be old enough that it would be grand fathered and not subject to IRC. If you have a fire station close by, I'd stop by and ask about it. They will probably come by and inspect it for free. The down side is that they may make you disconnect as well as the other tenants for safety reasons. This sounds like a fire waiting to happen. The wall might get warm but you are stating VERY HOT. That's not the same thing.
> Do you own the property or renting? Makes a huge difference in requirements.
> Food for thought
> https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=dryer+vent+fire



The building is 3 stories. The dryer is on the second floor. When I put my hard on the drywall it warm. Let's just work of that since there's no way to quantify works into temperature.

I own the property.


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## Tom738 (Jun 1, 2010)

Solidify said:


> The building is 3 stories. The dryer is on the second floor. When I put my hard on the drywall it warm. Let's just work of that since there's no way to quantify works into temperature.
> 
> I own the property.


Dry leaves in the duct + very hot air--> do not use.

I am not an expert, but imagine you're creating a constant draft by having that system. Any place there is air leakage into it, including, for example, if the dryer is not airtight, the warmer air in the house is going to flood up into the higher, cold, outside air and draw new cold air into the house. 

In your climate, I would look at rerouting the duct out through the side of the house. (Moving the dryer if necessary.) Research how to mitigate heat loss there.

But in any event, I wouldn't apply a heat source to a duct with leaves in it, or that might have leaves in it. The ducts aren't fire-rated like chimneys and it's not worth having a fire in any event.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Damn, I just spent a month trying to convince my family to use pur new dryer rather than hang clothes around the house. This won't go well. Worst possible timing too for winter.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Still heats up the wall after today's cleaning. No dryer for the winter. Hooray.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Not sure of the routing of the pipe but I've used a mirror to inspect pipes in instances where there is a straight shot to daylight. Evidently there isn't a cap up top with leaves being inside.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

That's a good idea. I'll give it a try tomorrow. But won't I not see daylight if the vent exhaust has a cover for leaves etc.?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

How did the leaves get in that you blew out?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Surely from the roof...


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Leaves in the vent duct can also mean a squirrel nest, probably abandoned by now but still a mess.

Do you have access to an attic above the top floor?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

ChuckF. said:


> Leaves in the vent duct can also mean a squirrel nest, probably abandoned by now but still a mess.
> 
> Do you have access to an attic above the top floor?



No access to an attic. There is no attach.


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## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

Can you hold your hand on the "hot" portion of the wall for an indefinite amount of time? If so, I doubt that it is getting much over 115-125 degrees F


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

danpik said:


> Can you hold your hand on the "hot" portion of the wall for an indefinite amount of time? If so, I doubt that it is getting much over 115-125 degrees F



Oh yea, I can keep my hand on the drywall indefinitely. It's warm to the touch on my bedroom side but I'm worried after seeing those leaves. -15C today. Not a chance I can go on the roof. I'm gonna miss my shot for the winter... Damn


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I ran the dryer on it's highest setting for a good half hour and proceeded to touch the wall in my bedroom and I noticed that if I "follow the pipe" up and down the wall, the warmth on the drywall isn't consistent, which leads me to assume it's simply a result of the pipe sitting against the drywall at some spots, espevially after seeing this:






I can see way past where I'm feeling the warmth on the wall.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Chuck a 20 ft. snake in a drill and clean it


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Chuck a 20 ft. snake in a drill and clean it



What kind of snake?


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## Wildbill7145 (Sep 26, 2014)

What about one of those things chimney sweeps use? The things you can just keep adding onto depending on how far up or down you have to go?

This thread just made me check our dryer vent while I was up cleaning out the gutters. The end where the air exits was a little jammed up preventing the flap from completely closing. Good reminder.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Wildbill7145 said:


> What about one of those things chimney sweeps use? The things you can just keep adding onto depending on how far up or down you have to go?
> 
> This thread just made me check our dryer vent while I was up cleaning out the gutters. The end where the air exits was a little jammed up preventing the flap from completely closing. Good reminder.



Those are dryer vent cleaning kits but none of them will go the two stories I need to reach. Most are not much more than 36".


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## Wildbill7145 (Sep 26, 2014)

Solidify said:


> Those are dryer vent cleaning kits but none of them will go the two stories I need to reach. Most are not much more than 36".


I'm not sure we're thinking about the same thing. The chimney sweep brushes you can keep adding lengths to. The guy who cleans out our chimney just keeps adding extensions until he gets all the way down to our firebox. At least 20' or so. But you can just keep adding on.

These things. Threaded ends.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'm talking about this:






But I cant find one that will go all the way to the roof. And plus, because I can't go on the roof now, I'd have to do it from the inside, and I'm not sure if I can, although this guy did:






Edit: Bill, just saw your photo. Where can I get one like that's that long? I have two stories to reach... And could I do it from the toilet and with my drill?


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## Wildbill7145 (Sep 26, 2014)

Ah, I see what you mean. I never thought about the turns which kind of kills my idea. I've never seen one of the dryer vent cleaning kits before. I might have to invest in one of those.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Where did you see that pic because that kit looks like it has enough feet to do my job


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## Wildbill7145 (Sep 26, 2014)

Solidify said:


> Where did you see that pic because that kit looks like it has enough feet to do my job


I just did a google image search for chimney sweep brush. I'll check the Canadian Tire site and see if they sell them.

Looks like Can Tire carries 'flexible' chimney brush rods for about $12 for 1.5m length. 3/8" thread connections.

3 pack for $32.99.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/i...-rod-kit-1-5m-3-pk-0644111p.html#.VlyQveKaZ0Q

Time to break out the brick of Canadian Tire money and count it up!


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

You need to be careful "snaking" that, so that you don't start rattling sections apart from one another. Assuming standard duct, one end is crimped, so that the straight end of the next section just slips over it, and I assume that you have no idea how any of it is supported. Personally, I think the only rational solution is someone, you or someone you hire, needs to go on the roof, look at it, ensure that it's clear, and do whatever is necessary to protect it from birds, bats, debris, etc. Not trying to put you in a bad spot, so hire it if you're not comfortable doing it yourself, nothing wrong with that at all, but I sure wouldn't care for not knowing what is going on up there.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Dexter, you hit the nail on the head. I wish I can just snap my fingers and be on the roof, do the work, and snap again to be on the ground. Climbing is the only frightening part of the job. If I were on the roof, I'd managed fine to see what the issue is and clean it. It's frustrating because even if I hired someone to do it, I wouldn't even be able to see how he or she did it, cuz I'd be too frightened to climb onto the roof. And it's my building, so it's a bit sad that I can't take care of it myself. We're all DIY'ers here...


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## Wildbill7145 (Sep 26, 2014)

Solidify, it's never a bad thing to admit it when you're thinking about doing something that's just simply beyond your comfort zone. I've had guys try and talk me into doing electrical stuff inside my breaker box. It's just something I'm never going to do and very willing to hire someone for and I have no shame in admitting that.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Thanks for the great advice Bill. I'm just so used to taking care of everything myself so as soon as this guy leaves and charges me X amount of dollars to have spent 30 minutes snaking the vent, I'll just be thinking "Damn, I could've done that." And then it sits with me forever how I got "duped." Aye about the service panel. It's the one thing electrical I won't touch.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'll leave this here incase others are interested:


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Dryer vent piping is NOT screwed together. So using a snake/fish could knock the pipe apart.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

So how do vent cleaning companies do it the right way?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Soft bristle brush.

The vent is held together with foil tape.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

beenthere said:


> Soft bristle brush.
> 
> The vent is held together with foil tape.



Isn't that what we've been talking about using (post 46)? I don't think anyone was talking about using an electrician's snake or anything that strong.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

> The vent is held together with foil tape.


Or duct tape if it's as old as mine...


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Pretty sure someone suggested using an electricians fish tape in a drill.

Chimney cleaning brushes aren't always real flexible. they are hard either, but a 4" brush, measures more then 4" in diameter. So it could be excessive pressure on a section while being pulled or pushed.


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## Thunder Chicken (May 22, 2011)

Solidify said:


> Those are dryer vent cleaning kits but none of them will go the two stories I need to reach. Most are not much more than 36".


Get a couple of these 12' extensions with the kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Gardus-R32036...8-6578668?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FTKRZW9NEY806NSK2ZM


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Trapper6 said:


> Just reverse the air flow in the dryer with the blower and then turn it on to blow the loose junk out. I do mine every year and it takes about 30 minutes tops.


Can you please explain how one reverses the air flow through the dryer with the blower? Normally, parts like the blower impeller will be designed to fit onto the motor shaft only one way so that people don't install them wrong.

And, could you please explain why somehow reversing the air flow through the dryer would blow "the loose junk *OUT*"?

*Solidify:*
Please don't go up on a sloping roof if there's snow on it. You could easily end up in the hospital, or the morgue.

Do this: Go up into your attic, and take a cotton shoe lace with you. Cut the plastic ferrule off of one end of the shoe lace and light that end and wait until it's burning on it's own. Then blow out the flame and allow the cotton lace to smolder, giving off a continuous stream of smoke as it does.

You will use this smoldering shoe lace as a poor man's smoke pencil.

Put the end of that lace near where the duct comes out of the wall/ceiling into the attic and see if there's air blowing out of that stud cavity from AROUND the duct. If so, then you have a leak in the rectangular duct inside the stud cavity, and that may be what you're feeling on the wall; air leakage out of the rectangular duct inside the stud cavity onto the back of the drywall in your bedroom.

If access from the attic is not feasible, then see if you can use a stick or something to get that smoldering shoe lace near the spot where the round duct from the dryer enters the stud cavity. You want to test for air flow out of that stud cavity, and if you find any, it's likely to be from a leaking rectangular duct inside the stud cavity.

If you have to open up the wall to fix the leak in the duct, I'd recommend that you extend the duct a good foot or two downward to below where the air comes in from the dryer, and I don't know what the vent piece would be called, but have the air entering that vertical duct at a 45 degree angle. If there were a 4 inch diameter round duct inside the wall, then the piece you'd need would be called a "45 degree saddle". You need to do the same kind of thing with a 4 inch diameter round duct going into a rectangular vertical duct inside your stud cavity. As I say, I don't know what that thing would be called, but you should be able to have one made at any sheet metal shop (or buy one off the shelf there). Ducts are made to standard sizes.

By doing that, the air from the dryer enters the vertical rectangular duct going upward at a 45 degree angle. But, any lint in the air stream that's too heavy to be carried by the air stream will fall down beneath where the air flow comes in. Those heavier pieces of lint will fall into the stagnant space at the bottom of your vertical rectangular duct. Provide a clean out at the bottom of that vertical rectangular duct to periodically clean out the lint that accumulates there.

Any plumbing supply wholesaler will sell access panels that fit between your studs so that you have access to the clean out at the bottom of the vertical rectangular duct.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

It's a flat roof, something like this: 










And I'm not going on it anymore. I tried today and wasn't man enough. I'll either use the clean-out kit, if it's not a disassembly hazard, or get someone to do it.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I just purchased the LintEater kit with one extension kit. I'll let you all know how it performs once it arrives.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

That's what I forgot to ask: with the LintEater kit I purchased, is there still a chance of the vent coming apart if the builders used duct tape and it's all worn (or worse if they just crimped the fittings together)?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Brush looks soft enough that it shouldn't. 

I wouldn't use the auger though.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

What item in the kit are you reffering to when you say "auger?"


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I haven't read this whole thread, but it seems to me to be foolish to be trying to clear the duct in the stud cavity with a round brush.

Ceiling fans use either a 3 or 4 inch diameter duct. Dryers will always be at least a 4 inch diameter duct. But, you can't fit a 4 inch diameter duct inside a 2X4 stud cavity. Whomever did that ducting would most likely have used a rectangular duct inside the stud cavity so as not to create a bottle neck in the air flow.

A round brush is not going to clean a rectangular duct well.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> I haven't read this whole thread, but it seems to me to be foolish to be trying to clear the duct in the stud cavity with a round brush.
> 
> Ceiling fans use either a 3 or 4 inch diameter duct. Dryers will always be at least a 4 inch diameter duct. But, you can't fit a 4 inch diameter duct inside a 2X4 stud cavity. Whomever did that ducting would most likely have used a rectangular duct inside the stud cavity so as not to create a bottle neck in the air flow.
> 
> A round brush is not going to clean a rectangular duct well.



Nestor, had you taken the time to read the thread before posting, you'd have noticed that I posted a video of my dryer's duct, in which you can clearly see it's not rectangular. Surely this was improperly installed and they should have used a rectangular duct, but this is a 30 year old home and it's all relative to what was acceptable then.

I don't have time to measure the diameter now though. I'll do that tomorrow and post back with my findings.



Solidify said:


> http://youtu.be/4-cjsH0umLg


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I received the LintEater and the extension kit and was able to vaccum two bags like this: 









The only problem I had was not beinf able to nicely attach my vaccuum to the cover they supply because I don't own a shopvac. My vaccuum's nozzle has a smaller diamter so I just wrapped a rag around the nozzle to stuff the gap and create an airtight seal:









Before:









After:









It may not look like much difference (and I definitely doubt that was the reason it was warm to the touch), but I was able to put atleast 20 feet of LintEater in there until I felt what I judged was the exhaust vent's screen on the roof.

Well worth the money. The soft bristle brush damages easily though and I see myself buyinf a replacement fairly soon (especially since everyone wants me to be unclog their dryer vents now hehe).


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## readar (Apr 27, 2011)

Solidify, you made some statements that were interesting:
"_My dryer has a lint filter, which we clean periodically. 

I went again for another minute and the instant I started for the second time, 
a pack of leaves came out of the pipe into the toilet.

Edit: Bill, just saw your photo. Where can I get one like that's that long? 
I have two stories to reach... And could I do it from the toilet and with my drill?_"

I clean the lint filter after every load, the amount of lint depends on what is in the dryer, but I'm sure the manufacturer would say clean the lint filter after every load.

Your dryer vent is not connected to your waste vent stack is it?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Readar, Im really not following what you're asking and who your post is directed to. Sry


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

> Your dryer vent is not connected to your waste vent stack is it?


No, it has a dedicated run.


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