# Replacing double window with sliding glass door.



## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

as long as the header is high enough and wide enough (can be higher and wider and just fill in) you're good to go.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1 You have to know what the rough opening of the door your planing on installing is before doing anything. If it's the same or smaller then the R/O of the windows it can be done without to much distruction.
If it's bigger then it's a lot more work because your going to be dealling having to install a longer header.

#2 That doors threshold has to be at least 4" above the finished surface of the deck.


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

Great, I will be posting pics of the process!! Thanks for the reply!!


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

joecaption said:


> #1 You have to know what the rough opening of the door your planing on installing is before doing anything. If it's the same or smaller then the R/O of the windows it can be done without to much distruction.
> If it's bigger then it's a lot more work because your going to be dealling having to install a longer header.
> 
> #2 That doors threshold has to be at least 4" below the finished surface of the deck.


Huh, that I did not know. What is the reasoning behind the 4"?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It would have been a whole lot easer to have installed the door before building the deck.
There needs to be support installed under the threshold on the outside wall as well as flashing to protect the wall, Not sure how your going to do that with the deck in the way.


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## picflight (Aug 25, 2011)

joecaption said:


> #2 That doors threshold has to be at least 4" below the finished surface of the deck.


4" below or above?

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

Also, what type of support does the threshold need? Is there a diagram or resource you could recommend?


Thanks!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Opps my fault for the typo. The doors threshold needs to be 4" or more above the decks surface.
#1 That's code.
#2 That's to prevent water from getting in under the threshold.

If you take the time to look look around long enough on this site or any DIY site you will find hundreds of people dealing with floor, wall, foundation, sheetrock damage from this one common mistake. 

I also always install any french door or sliding door so it sits in a sill pan. That way when the door leaks (and most do at some point) the water is directed outside not inside.
Just do a key word search on Jam Sill to see what one looks like.

The aluminum sill on a door sticks out behind the sheathing about 1-1/2". If it's not supported it will twist when steped on, which will cause nothing but trouble with the rollers, and the caulking to crack in the outside corners.
I use a piece of 1 X 6 vinyl lumber with stainless steel trim head screws to support it. No painting, no rotting, fully supported.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Fully agree with the support for the sill, I like to do this on all exterior doors.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://jamsill.com/

I've made a ton of money going back and having to fix sliders, french doors, even reguler doors that were not supported correctly.
Time and time again builders will use something like a pressure treated 2 X 4 or 6.
A 2X sticks out to far and will do nothing but make a funnel for water to get in. It also looks like poop.


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

I feel like I will have no problem doing that with the deck already there as it is at least 2" lower than my floor..


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

hard to slip in the 1x6 or even 1x4 support


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Or the water proofing behind it to protect the sheathing.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

joecaption said:


> The doors threshold needs to be 4" or more above the decks surface.
> #1 That's code.


So where does it say that anywhere? 

Other than you bringing it up a few times I've never heard of or read that anywhere.


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

kwikfishron said:


> So where does it say that anywhere?
> 
> Other than you bringing it up a few times I've never heard of or read that anywhere.


I actually read 3.25" recommend but not that it's code.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

kwik,

to my knowledge the only requirement in the 2009 International Residential Code for a drop in floor elevation from interior to exterior is:

_*R311.3.1 Floor elevations at the required egress doors.* Landings or floors at the required egress door shall not be more than 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) lower than the top of the threshold. 

*Exception:*_ _ The exterior landing or floor shall not be more than 73/4 inches (196 mm) below the top of the threshold provided the door does not swing over the landing or floor.

_The 4" comes from the International Building Code, which can be used (and sometimes required) in the design of residential structures. 

_*1009.4.2 Riser height and tread depth.* __Stair riser heights shall be 7 inches (178 mm) maximum and 4 inches (102 mm) minimum._

Anything less than 4" (even 4" can be) become a trip hazard.

Hope that helps! :thumbsup:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

GBrackins said:


> kwik,
> 
> to my knowledge the only requirement in the 2009 International Residential Code for a drop in floor elevation from interior to exterior is:
> 
> ...


Thanks, I knew that. What I was referring too was a requirement that said the deck surface "must" be at a lower elevation than the floor inside, which is what I thought Joe was referring too. 

Although a good idea for weatherproofing I don’t think it’s required, in fact in the case of multi-unit dwellings and public places it’s not allowed (as a step anyway).


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

I figured that you knew by asking the question .....

I gave the only IRC code section I am aware that gives the requirements for interior and exterior floor levels and as can be seen, there is no requirement for an exterior landing/deck/floor to be lower than the inside, in fact it limits the maximum drop as 1-1/2" lower than the top of the threshold unless a door does not swing over it (going outward).

As you state for weatherproofing it is an excellent idea to drop the deck lower than the inside.


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

one thing you will want to do is make sure there is not a support 2x4 between the windows , known as a stud pocket. chances are you have a full header above but maybe not. the best way to find out is to demo drywall and expose framing and pull the mullion trim between the windows to see inside of the slotted space...


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

Thanks guys. The deck is totally finished now (pics to come). I will be looking to tackle the door within a week or so.


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

Is it a free standing deck?


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

CoconutPete said:


> Is it a free standing deck?


Yes it is.....


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

Do you have any pics of the inside?

How wide is that window?

I would remove some trim and drywall from the inside, it's what I ended up doing that finally gave me the confidene to just tear into it. I was looking at a single width door which if my memory serves me correctly was 82" in height, but the header I found was 80" above the subfloor so I ended up with a slider that was 80" in height so it worked out perfectly since I gained 1/2" by going down to the subfloor.

If you remove the drywall you will be able to see exactly what kind of a door you can fit in there.

Is that vinyl siding or clapboard?


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

PLEASE PLEASE post pictures of your progress with the door, I have this exact same project coming up!


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

rebelranger said:


> PLEASE PLEASE post pictures of your progress with the door, I have this exact same project coming up!


Will do, it will be at least a few weeks before I start.


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

CoconutPete said:


> Do you have any pics of the inside?
> 
> How wide is that window?
> 
> ...



Okay, window jam total width is 75". Height is 80". Sorry for the dark pic.....

If I go with a door this size it will be perfect...... http://www.lowes.com/pd_391799-9470..._product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Sliding


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

Here is the pic....


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

That's the same size door I put in my house, I don't know anything about that door though, I used an Andersen door.

You're going to have to re-route that electric - do you have a basement or a crawlspace? I had to do the same, it came in handy to have the wife upstairs while i was crawling around down there. I had to move a duct too though, looks like you're a bit luckier than I am.

Pull the curtains, pull the window trim and cut the drywall from the window edge and straight down and pull it. Do the same above the window, pull out whatever insulation might be there, that should give you a good idea of what you're working with.


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

CoconutPete said:


> That's the same size door I put in my house, I don't know anything about that door though, I used an Andersen door.
> 
> You're going to have to re-route that electric - do you have a basement or a crawlspace? I had to do the same, it came in handy to have the wife upstairs while i was crawling around down there. I had to move a duct too though, looks like you're a bit luckier than I am.
> 
> Pull the curtains, pull the window trim and cut the drywall from the window edge and straight down and pull it. Do the same above the window, pull out whatever insulation might be there, that should give you a good idea of what you're working with.


I do have a basement. Rerouting the electric will be easy as I have done it for my kitchen renovation already. I will most likely re-route it to be an outdoor outlet for the deck and connect a switch/ outdoor light.

Unfortunately it got cold here real quick. It's 36 here. Yikes!!!! Hopefully a bit of a warmer weekend is in my future to get this done. I'll keep everyone posted.


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

If I remember correctly we did mine in the spring - it was cold in the morning the day we actually cut the hole. It made it easier that I already had the inside of the wall gutted at that point - we could pretty much go straight to sawing.

If you experience the same joy I did from finally having an easy place to walk out to the grill on, you'll be grilling way into winter.


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

CoconutPete said:


> If I remember correctly we did mine in the spring - it was cold in the morning the day we actually cut the hole. It made it easier that I already had the inside of the wall gutted at that point - we could pretty much go straight to sawing.
> 
> If you experience the same joy I did from finally having an easy place to walk out to the grill on, you'll be grilling way into winter.


Grilling in the winter is my plan!!! Lol


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## twalstrom (Sep 14, 2012)

Wow it's been a long time. Winter came and I never got my door in. I am looking to do it ASAP!!!


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