# hollow core door



## awdblazer (Dec 30, 2010)

how much can you safely cut off a hollow core door? bought a bunch of doors at menards today for dirt cheap
can i cut off 15/16 off the top and bottom?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The strip of wood at the bottom is only about 1" wide so that would leave you with nothing left to hold it together.
Why do they have to be cut? A standard door is 6'8" what are the dors you bought?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Cut it all off the bottom. Then pry/chisel the door skin off the filler piece, slip it back in with glue on it and clampo it in place, can use a couple off small nails too if you want.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/20395/how-to-trim-a-hollow-core-door-to-height


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

The last one I cut down was from Home Depot and there was only about 3/8" on top and bottom. I usually cut a 2x4 down to slip inside the skin and glue it in with polyurethane (yeah, the foamy stuff)


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## awdblazer (Dec 30, 2010)

so i am going to cut off about 2 inches off each door and frames
what is the best way to do this
get measurement of rough opening, cut frame without door in it, then cut down door 1/2 short that the door height?


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Yes, cut the door and frame as you described. I forget the standard floor clearance; that varies depending on whether you plan to have a hard floor versus carpet.

Some time ago I bought a prehung door (door & frame pre-assembled) knowing it was too tall for the space provided (under the center beam of a basement). I cut the bottom because that would be easier and not require redoing the hinges and rehanging the door in its frame. The result was the the doorknob was lower than normal, that is, lower than the doorknobs of other doors in the area. Which was for me the lesser of evils.

I did not need to but it would be easy to insert a block in the bottom and glue it in place if the hollow part was exposed. I did notice that for the piece I cut off I found it impossible to peel off the fragment of door skin on each side. Also this piece was really (one plus inch solid) cardboard, not wood.

I forget but I think I cut the frame so the top of the door would be flush against the rough opening (the overhead beams) with no shims. This allows for the maximum door height (and minimum cutting off the bottom).


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## awdblazer (Dec 30, 2010)

for most of the door will be on hardwood so what kind of a gap should i leave?
1/2 inch?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

At least 1/2" for air flow.


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## awdblazer (Dec 30, 2010)

when i cut the door can i try it out without that piece i will glue in just to make sure it is the right height? before i glue it in

like i mean when i cut the door can i put it back on its hinges and try it in the door before i glue the piece back in?


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## awdblazer (Dec 30, 2010)

anyone?


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## TheDoorGuy (Jun 23, 2010)

awdblazer said:


> when i cut the door can i try it out without that piece i will glue in just to make sure it is the right height? before i glue it in
> 
> like i mean when i cut the door can i put it back on its hinges and try it in the door before i glue the piece back in?


I don't like to give the door any opportunity to twist or flex so I install the
new bottom right after I cut it while it is still lying flat on the bench. 
I suppose that if you are careful not to twist it while checking in opening 
that would be ok but not really recommended.

RC/DG


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

awdblazer said:


> when i cut the door can i try it out without that piece i will glue in just to make sure it is the right height? before i glue it in
> 
> like i mean when i cut the door can i put it back on its hinges and try it in the door before i glue the piece back in?


Like I said in my previous post, I don't try to salvage the original bottom, I cut a new plug and usually make this one 1-1/2 -2" wide. That gives me plenty of room for a second cut should I need one. Also, if I need to take off an inch or more, I take equal amounts from the top and bottom if I have to mortise the hinges anyway.


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