# cutting a 63 degree angle on a 2x8 with a circular saw



## djmarklinger (Jul 16, 2010)

Help...I'm building a deck and need to cut a 63 degree angle on a 2x8 board the will be used as a joist. My circular saw has a bevel up to 50 degrees, but I can't figure out how to get the extra 13 degrees. I tried flipping the board over and cutting it 27 degrees....I'm still laughing at myself for that one.:laughing:


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

circular saw or table saw?


and if all else fails, a hand saw will do it.:wink:


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## djmarklinger (Jul 16, 2010)

Sorry, Circular


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## Jack Olsen (Jan 26, 2010)

I'm not sure I understand the question. Mark out the cut on the board, then cut it.


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

cut a wedge to go under the skillsaw and make up the extra degrees, if you saw goes to 50deg cut a 13deg wedge on the miter saw and attach it to either the board you're cutting or clamp it to the circular, either way it should give you a 63deg angle


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

djmarklinger said:


> Help...
> I tried flipping the board over and cutting it 27 degrees....I'm still laughing at myself for that one.:laughing:


Nothing to laugh at with setting the saw at 27 degrees.

Square your 2x8 cut it with the saw set at zero. Now set the saw at 27 degrees. Now turn the saw so that the bottom of the table runs on the 1-1/2" face of the 2x8 and cut. The end result gives to a 67 degree. Depending on the type of saw you have you might have to finish the cut with a sawzall or handsaw.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

Joe Carola said:


> Nothing to laugh at with setting the saw at 27 degrees.
> 
> Square your 2x8 cut it with the saw set at zero. Now set the saw at 27 degrees. Now turn the saw so that the bottom of the table runs on the 1-1/2" face of the 2x8 and cut. The end result gives to a 67 degree. Depending on the type of saw you have you might have to finish the cut with a sawzall or handsaw.


 exactomundo and fastening a piece of 2x to side of joist gives saw base more surface to ride on :thumbsup:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Joe Carola said:


> Nothing to laugh at with setting the saw at 27 degrees.
> 
> Square your 2x8 cut it with the saw set at zero. Now set the saw at 27 degrees. Now turn the saw so that the bottom of the table runs on the 1-1/2" face of the 2x8 and cut. The end result gives to a 67 degree. Depending on the type of saw you have you might have to finish the cut with a sawzall or handsaw.


That’s one of those “Don’t try this at home” kinda cuts.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Carola: actually I am lost as to why you would set your saw to 27º. You would mark your angle on the board and simply cut it. 

unless I am misunderstanding what the OP is doing. I read his need as basically a bevel of 63º on the end of the board. If he simply needs to cut the end at an angle, then you just mark the angle and cut with the saw straight up. Your process will end up with an angle cut end, not a bevel end cut.

to djamrklinger: you did state circular saw in your title. I thought I had read it somewhere but just forgot when I asked you to clarify.


If you have several of these cuts, I think I have a method.


It is the edge cut method. You take all the boards that need this cut and set them 8X side to 8X side (stacked but you will end up with the 1 1/2X side facing up) and clamp them together . You then mark the angle across all of the boards and cut from the edge cut side. The stack will act as it's own table. You will have to spin them and do a cut from each side and maybe finish with a handsaw or sawzall. 

but you do not set the sawblade at 27º. You leave it at 90º (straight up)


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Today I have learned something about weird cuts. As usual the setup time is longer than the time to cut.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

nap said:


> Carola: actually I am lost as to why you would set your saw to 27º. You would mark your angle on the board and simply cut it.
> 
> unless I am misunderstanding what the OP is doing.


I think you are. He said this;





> djmarklinger *cutting a 63 degree angle on a 2x8 with a circular saw*
> Help...I'm building a deck and need to cut a 63 degree angle on a 2x8 board *the will be used as a joist.*



Sounds like he's talking about a floor joist framing that's probably going into an 63 degree angled girder. The joist has to have a 63 degree bevel cut at the end. The first cut is sqaure with the saw set a 0 and the cut I'm talking about gets set at 27degrees running on the 1-1/2" side of the joist creating a 63 degree finished cut.




> I read his need as basically a bevel of 63º on the end of the board. If he simply needs to cut the end at an angle, then you just mark the angle and cut with the saw straight up. Your process will end up with an angle cut end, not a bevel end cut.


Why would you cut joists like that? Sounds like your talking about the decking.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

kwikfishron said:


> That’s one of those “Don’t try this at home” kinda cuts.


It's not difficult to cut. If he's willing to build the deck by himself and use a circular saw, he can certainly make this cut safely.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I know its not difficult Joe, but it’s not a cut for a weak or unsteady hand. 

It takes a little more skill than framing 101, but it is the way to do it.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

> Joe Carola;470476]I think you are. He said this;




I believe I understand what he is doing. There is no reason to alter the angle of your saw from straight up 90º. If you angle the saw and cut on the edge like you tell, the angle will cut the end of the board at an angle, not bevel the end.





> Why would you cut joists like that? Sounds like your talking about the decking.


[now why would you cut a bevel on the end of a decking board?


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

kwikfishron said:


> I know its not difficult Joe, but it’s not a cut for a weak or unsteady hand.
> 
> It takes a little more skill than framing 101, but it is the way to do it.


After cutting a square cut with no setting on the saw, he can scribe a 63 degree mark on the top and bottom 1-1/2" edges of the 2x8. He ca square the short point of the 63 degree mark as a reference line. With the saw set a 0 he can cut the top and bottom 63 degree lines on edge. 

The blade will go approximately 2-1/2" down on each side using a 7-1/4" saw giving him roughly 5" cut out of the 2x8 and 2-1/2" left to cut. He can finish that cut with a sawzall or handsaw following the square line from the short points squared mark I said above.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

nap said:


> I believe I understand what he is doing. There is no reason to alter the angle of your saw from straight up 90º. If you angle the saw and cut on the edge like you tell, the angle will cut the end of the board at an angle, not bevel the end.


 

If he has a deck that is not square or rectangular shaped and has an angle on it, the framing is not square at the outside end of the deck where the girder is. The joist at the end have to get cut square and have a 63 degree bevel on it whether it's a dropped girder or flush girder. If the deck was 45 degrees he would set the saw at 45 degrees and cut.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Joe Carola said:


> After cutting a square cut with no setting on the saw, he can scribe a 63 degree mark on the top and bottom 1-1/2" edges of the 2x8. He ca square the short point of the 63 degree mark as a reference line. With the saw set a 0 he can cut the top and bottom 63 degree lines on edge.
> 
> The blade will go approximately 2-1/2" down on each side using a 7-1/4" saw giving him roughly 5" cut out of the 2x8 and 2-1/2" left to cut. He can finish that cut with a sawzall or handsaw following the square line from the short points squared mark I said above.


and that is exactly what I was talking about and if he has multiple boards to cut like this, he can stack them 8X side to 8X side and cut the 1 1/2X side. The stack will give him a larger area for his saw, 1 1/2" for each additional board.

So, where do you get setting the saw at 27º for anything?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Joe Carola said:


> If he has a deck that is not square or rectangular shaped and has an angle on it, the framing is not square at the outside end of the deck where the girder is. The joist at the end have to get cut square and have a 63 degree bevel on it whether it's a dropped girder or flush girder. If the deck was 45 degrees he would set the saw at 45 degrees and cut.


I know what it is used for. It just won't work the way you had said before with setting the saw at 27º and cutting across the edge. That will result in an angle cut of the end of the board, not a bevel.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I guess I misunderstood, I thought you were talking about running the saw down the 1 ½” butt of the board at a 27 degree angle. That’s how I’d do it anyway but you better know your saw.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

nap said:


> I know what it is used for. It just won't work the way you had said before with setting the saw at 27º and cutting across the edge. That will result in an angle cut of the end of the board, not a bevel.


You still don't get it. I don't know what else to tell you. I've cut thousands of joists and rafters the way I've described and it works. Once I bought a 10" Big Foot saw that cuts up to 73 degrees I don't have to do it anymore.

I'll explain it one more time.

Square your 2x8 cut it with the saw set at zero. Now set the saw at 27 degrees. Now turn the saw so that the bottom of the table runs on the 1-1/2" face of the 2x8 (7-1/2" side, *maybe that's where your confused*)and cut. The end result gives to a 67 degree. Depending on the type of saw you have you might have to finish the cut with a sawzall or handsaw.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

kwikfishron said:


> I guess I misunderstood, I thought you were talking about running the saw down the 1 ½” butt of the board at a 27 degree angle. That’s how I’d do it anyway but you better know your saw.


That's what I am talking about. Nap doesn't understand that way of doing it.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Oh, now I see what you and carola were talking about. Kind of a whacko way to do it. and unless you clamp up the board so you do have a surface to run the saw on, it is only as accurate as you can hold the saw.

If you are going to do that, you might as well use a sawzall.

I just wouldn't ever consider doing something that whacko. that's why I could not picture it making any sense.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

nap said:


> Oh, now I see what you and carola were talking about. Kind of a whacko way to do it. and unless you clamp up the board so you do have a surface to run the saw on, it is only as accurate as you can hold the saw.
> 
> If you are going to do that, you might as well use a sawzall.
> 
> I just wouldn't ever consider doing something that whacko. that's why I could not picture it making any sense.


It's a simple easy cut to make. Your making a big deal over nothing. That's why you consider it whacko. Anyone can make this simple cut. Obviously your not experienced enough yet. Learn how to use a circular saw first before you consider it a whacko way to do it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

It’s not whacko and it’s not the only way to get that 67 degrees but it’s the fast way.

If I had a pile of them to do I’d be stackin and clampin and gasin up the Stihl.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

kwikfishron said:


> It’s not whacko and it’s not the only way to get that 67 degrees but it’s the fast way.
> 
> If I had a pile of them to do I’d be stackin and clampin and gasin up the Stihl.



I've been using a Bigfoot saw for many years now. It cuts up to 75 degrees with a swing table. I said 73 degrees before. Check out their chainsaw adapter.


http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4596259/beam_saws_bigfoot_saws_beam_saw_call_now_1_888_798_4499/


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Joe Carola said:


> I've been using a Bigfoot saw for many years now. It cuts up to 75 degrees with a swing table. I said 73 degrees before. Check out their chainsaw adapter.
> 
> 
> http://www.metacafe.com/watch/4596259/beam_saws_bigfoot_saws_beam_saw_call_now_1_888_798_4499/


I got a BF couldn't live without it. Don't have the super table though.
Really don’t deal with those angles that often.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

This is what I really use for a stack of 67’s.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...TITfKY_qNdKmldIH&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

Can’t live without this one either. Three 4x stringers at the same time.:thumbsup:

Done it with the Stihl too, just seeing if could get some reaction to “chainsaw framing”.:whistling2:


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

kwikfishron said:


> This is what I really use for a stack of 67’s.
> 
> http://www.google.com/products/cata...TITfKY_qNdKmldIH&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p
> 
> ...


I have that also. I have it on a makita sidewinder. Quite a few framers use the chainsaw from bigfoot. It works great and has very clean cuts when gang cutting rafters. People who will think it's crazy are the ones who don't know because they've never seen it used before.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

kwikfishron said:


> This is what I really use for a stack of 67’s.
> 
> http://www.google.com/products/cata...TITfKY_qNdKmldIH&sa=title&ved=0CAcQ8wIwADgA#p
> 
> ...


I live near a large Amish community. Your beam saw is small compared to what those guys use and they have this slick little chainsaw jig where they use the chainsaw to cut mortises for stairs and mortise and tenon beam joints. Seen lots of chainsaw carpentry in my neck of the woods.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Yep it’s a little saw, that’s the beauty of it. 

Can't beat if for inside corners if you have a stack of stair jacks or seat cuts to cut.


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## mmash (Apr 11, 2013)

Joe,

Thanks for your post here, very helpful. Once the footings are completed I will be framing a irregular/bastard overhang on my patio. It will actually be half a hip roof, not sure what that is called. Anyway the sides will be a 6 pitch and the front will be a 3 pitch. I have it drawn up in CAD and was trying to figure out how to cut the ~67 degree angle where the rafters meet the hip rafter on the 3 pitch. Anyway I know it is slightly off topic but I was wondering if you had any experience with bastard hip roofs. Looking for some guidance on figuring out the hip rafter length. I can get all the other lengths from the cad drawing in 2D, I am not a CAD expert in 3D.

-Mike


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## SquishyBall (Mar 19, 2013)

Joe Carola said:


> It's a simple easy cut to make. Your making a big deal over nothing. That's why you consider it whacko. Anyone can make this simple cut.


Joe, so simple. Have to admit my first thoughts were how to miter it via tilting the blade and cutting on the flat side... but turning the board sideways will get you 2.5" into it on both sides, leaving only an inch or so to finish off w your reciprocating saw. Easy, stable, nothing difficult at all doing it that way. Nice.


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