# SW ProClassic Waterborne Enamel - hints on apply to trim?



## slickracer (Nov 13, 2008)

I have used Pro Classic. The semi gloss is not a semi gloss in my opinion, looks like more of a satin.


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

*We're in progress.*

We're in progress. Have a dozen 16' sticks of crown done while lying horizontally with a brush drying in the workshop - they are looking pretty good. Also did one side of a door standing verticle - looks ok, but in several places brush marks are pretty visible. Will try a foam roller on the door next to see if the results are better.

Any suggestions or hints welcomed - thanks!

Vince


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## joenusz (Apr 26, 2009)

*SW Data Sheet Specs*

Technical specs can be found here for the acrylic semi-gloss: http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&prodno=B31W00051&doctype=PDS&lang=E

Application recommendations are on the second page. I wouldn't roll trim. If you brush (acrylic), get a good synthetic fiber brush like the Purdy 100% Nylon. If you are using oil-based, get a Purdy natural hair.

Wall Paint - Beauty on a Budget
 Wall Paint


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

If it's the factory pre-primed stuff then don't even think of it as primed. The pre-primed stuff with drink your $50 a gallon paint and make it dry so quick it will leave lap marks all over the place. Get a $20 gallon of this:










to re-prime with first and it will save a lot of your $50 a gallon paint.


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## joenusz (Apr 26, 2009)

I agree with Matt - I don't know how many customers came into the store during my time there, complaining that their pre-primed moldings were peeling quality topcoats. I'm assuming you have a discount as SW, so look into SW Classic primer to go under the ProClassic. If I remember correctly, Classic primer intentionally holds gloss well.

Wall Paint - Beauty on a Budget
 Wall Paint


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Hmmm... well, we are about 90% done already with the initial coat of the cover enamel on the trim pieces and doors. So too late for the primer tip on this project - will do it for the next project for sure, thanks!

We are doing all when laid horizontally and they are coming out very well - quite smooth. However, we have not hit on a combination to make it come out smoothly when applied veritically. Have tried nylon and polyester brushes, foam roller (made for a orange peel surface), and the foam roller with back brushing.

Since we can do most of the first cover coat with the pieces horizontal, they look very good. But we are concerned when we have to do 2nd coat and patching after they are installed and on the verticle...


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## Madam (Jan 10, 2010)

*Best tip I ever got for trim painting*

I learned an invaluable method for painting trim and have had good results with less brush marks and no shading with glossy paints. It took me a little time to get used to the technique but it automatic after installing crown and new baseboards in the entire house. Not sure if the technique is common knowledge in the world of professional painting, but it works well.

*Pick and end to start and paint about 6 inches. Then only swipe your brush in one direction, towards the end you started. Always paint the dry area into the wet area and work your way to the other end. Do not go over any areas after you move to the next section.Depending on the size if the molding I work in 6-12" sections.

*I only use Purdy brushes, use the proper size for the job you are doing. Cleaning them with a steel brush, keeps them like new. 

Remember when touching up the seams and nail holes move the brush in the same direction you originally applied the paint. 

Another thing I do when taking a painting break wrap the brush/roller in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for a short break or in the freezer between working weekends. I have also stored my paint tray in the fridge with plastic wrap touching the paint for up to a couple of days. I hate cleaning up after painting.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I'd prime it again with something like an underlay for enamel. If that is not possible?

Invest in a nice brush. Expect to pay $15-20us for something like a Purdy or Wooster. 

Add Floetrol to the paint (not the original can) per the instructions, to level out brush marks. The stuff is not expensive ($6-7us retail for a quart?) and is a gift from God.

http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions/products/view-product.jsp?productId=12

As for semi or gloss? That is rather up to you. Gloss really holds up with minimal tinting though. If you start adding pigment in any quantity it looks terrible.


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