# Is R-13 decent insulation?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table

All depends on where the insulation was and what it was insulating and where you live?
It's best with questions like this to include your location in your profile. (not just mention it in your post.)
Just go to quick links to edit.
If this was inside a wall and the walls only 2 X 4 you can not simply remove the R-13 and expect to fit a piece of R-19 if both are fiberglass. R-19 is thicker. Compressed insulation does not work.
Want to add R value you would have to build out the walls or have the walls spray foamed.


----------



## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

Sorry bout that I should have put more info. I'm in TX, so its regarding the heat. The R13 was in an inside wall, not facing outside towards the outdoors. So I see your point. You are saying that the insulation may be different on the outside walls, correct?


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Most houses don't even have insulation in interior walls. What rooms is this wall between?

R-30 Would be found in an attic or a basement ceiling.


----------



## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

mikegp said:


> Most houses don't even have insulation in interior walls. What rooms is this wall between?
> 
> R-30 Would be found in an attic or a basement ceiling.


This is in a wall that runs between the living room, and the master bedroom. 

I am curious though. What exactly, is the best insulation that you can put in your exterior walls, and attic? What's the best technology out there?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd bet someone put that there to try and deaden the sound, so someone could sleep while people were in the living room. Only other reason would be if at some time this was an outside wall and an addition was added.
Here's some general info.
What insulation is used is decided by location in the home and your budget. 
http://web.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/insulation/ins_02.html
Other things that have an effect.
Air sealing (sealing up any holes in the attic, walls, and crawl spaces where plumbing or wiring was run)
Proper roof venting. Must have soffits and some form or roof venting. I prefer a ridge vent so the whole roof gets vented.


----------



## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

No budget really. I'm willing to spend a lot of money to get my electric bill low.


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I think closed cell spray foam will be your best bet if you really don't care about price. It air seals, insulates, and is a vapor barrier all at the same time.


----------



## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

Its better than any roll-out insulation? Like the pink stuff.


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Much.


----------



## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Yes, technically, spray foam insulation is the best combined air and moisture-sealing method there is, but whether or not it is called for - or applies to your house - is another matter altogether. Have you had an energy audit performed recently?

An energy audit will tell you a lot about the application of several different forms of insulation in your particular circumstances, and explain to you the payback of doing a number of things to lower your energy bill. I mean saying spray foam is best is fine - but does it even apply to your circumstances is a question we cannot know; for example, would it go on the outside - or the inside - and then is it worth taking down all your walls, apply the foam then put everything back together. And have you air-sealed the best you can? An energy audit will tell you all this - and these guys are independent contractors so they have no dog in that fight...

Let us know.


----------



## AtticFoil.com (Aug 27, 2013)

One trick I like to do on exterior wall remodels is to add a 1/2" layer of foam board behind the sheetrock. It's pretty cheap and goes up easy and works well with the existing insulation. It does two things: First it will add r-value to the wall, secondly it will greatly reduce what is called "Thermal Bypass". This is the heat flow through the wall studs that essentially "bypasses" the insulation. There can be be some challenges if you have doors/windows but outlets and lights are pretty easy to move out. Just use longer drywall screws and you are done.


----------



## romex1220 (Jun 26, 2013)

The foam board is a really good idea. Usually walls are done with r-19 and attics r-30 with vapor barrier being on living or warm side. Depends on location. I use the closed cell spray foam with some fiberglass on top. Stops all drafts and is your vapor barrier


----------



## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

mikegp said:


> Much.



Ok well I wasn't really going to change my insulation right now, more just trying to learn something about insulation. So is R-30 about as high as the roll out stuff can go? Also, what would be the R-rating of the spray on insulation?


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

AtticFoil.com said:


> One trick I like to do on exterior wall remodels is to add a 1/2" layer of foam board behind the sheetrock. It's pretty cheap and goes up easy and works well with the existing insulation. It does two things: First it will add r-value to the wall, secondly it will greatly reduce what is called "Thermal Bypass". This is the heat flow through the wall studs that essentially "bypasses" the insulation. There can be be some challenges if you have doors/windows but outlets and lights are pretty easy to move out. Just use longer drywall screws and you are done.


Are you sure it's legal to have foam at the edge of electrical boxes? I think you'll need a box extender in that situation. Rigid foam is pretty flammable and creates very dangerous gases. I don't think many areas would let that fly.


----------



## AtticFoil.com (Aug 27, 2013)

The easy way to address this is to cut the foam back a few inches away from the boxes and fill in the gap with standard fiberglass insulation before you sheetrock. I'd check code in your area. You can use box extenders, or if the wall is wide open just attach a 1x2 on the face of the stud and reattach.


----------

