# roof leaking 5 ft. below exhaust vent



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

What you should have done is called him the first time it leaked 5 years ago. 

Most of these kind of fixes are very simple and “never” require “a butt load of roof patch”.

That said and not even getting into your contractor issues today, I’m sure all you want is to stop the leak and there are plenty of people here that can assist you with that.

All you need to do is post a picture or two of the vent, standing far enough back so we can see the area around and above it.:thumbsup:


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## mayhem69 (Aug 1, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> What you should have done is called him the first time it leaked 5 years ago.
> 
> Most of these kind of fixes are very simple and “never” require “a butt load of roof patch”.
> 
> ...


yes, i know i should of called him, but you know how we think we can do things ourselves sometimes.
Anyway, here are the pics., it is a real big roof.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

That’s definitely not installed correctly and having a valley pouring into it doesn’t help anything. 

If you could move the vent over a bay or two I would.

If the guy that installed it is who your beating with a stick to come back, forget it, just write him off.

Get an experienced roofer in there to fix this simple issue.

It may or may not be DIY, don’t know your skill level.

Did I say move the vent?


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## mayhem69 (Aug 1, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> That’s definitely not installed correctly and having a valley pouring into it doesn’t help anything.
> 
> If you could move the vent over a bay or two I would.
> 
> ...


Moving the vent is out of the question. The whole inside of that sunroom is pine beadboard. What do you see with the vent that it's not installed correctly?
Also, this guy is going to have to make it right, he has done tons of work for us. I just pd. him $130 to fix this with my shingles. When he comes to fix this again he is not getting pd. anyway, though he does not know it yet.
What do you recommend to fix this besides moving the vent, cause that is not gonna happen.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

mayhem69 said:


> What do you recommend to fix this besides moving the vent, cause that is not gonna happen.


Get an experienced roofer in there to fix this simple issue.:thumbsup:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’m no roofer, I’m just the siding guy. 

Although I do know about drainage planes, water management, and I can think like a raindrop. 

Obviously your guy can’t.

I’m sure he built you a beautiful sunroom but if he can’t see the obvious than you should find someone that can.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

I'm no roofer, but I see several issues with this set up (nevermind it being located right where a valley dumps into it, as someone said).

* That vent needs to be replaced as it is rusting out. Water could be coming into the location on the side where the vent meets the flashing where there is rust. When it is replaced, have the roofer install ice and water shield over the flashing.

* The bottom part of the flashing needs to be exposed OVER the shingles. That way, as water flows down the roof, it will direct on top of the flashing which is ABOVE the shingles. The set up that you have right now will direct water UNDER the shingles.

* If you cannot move the vent, have a roofer install these angled flow diverters/channels to see if that helps.


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## mayhem69 (Aug 1, 2008)

handy man88 said:


> I'm no roofer, but I see several issues with this set up (nevermind it being located right where a valley dumps into it, as someone said).
> 
> * That vent needs to be replaced as it is rusting out. Water could be coming into the location on the side where the vent meets the flashing where there is rust. When it is replaced, have the roofer install ice and water shield over the flashing.
> 
> ...


 Well, it's definitely not leaking from rusting out, it has been leaking at the same spot in my sunroom since new. This is a very good unit, a panasonic, which is top of the line. So you are saying the shingles around the fan are all wrong?


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## ThatDaveGuy (Dec 31, 2010)

I think they're saying the vent lip should look this way:










The "downhill" lip should be on top of the shingle so water flows from upper shingle ~> vent lip ~> lower shingle. The way yours is funnels water under the edge of the lower shingles. Looks nice, doesn't work.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

mayhem69 said:


> Well, it's definitely not leaking from rusting out, it has been leaking at the same spot in my sunroom since new. This is a very good unit, a panasonic, which is top of the line. So you are saying the shingles around the fan are all wrong?


Yes, the shingles are all wrong. See pic above on how it should look.

In any regard, I think you should replace it as it is starting to rust. 

Is there any way you can access the attic area directly under the roof?


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## mayhem69 (Aug 1, 2008)

handy man88 said:


> Yes, the shingles are all wrong. See pic above on how it should look.
> 
> In any regard, I think you should replace it as it is starting to rust.
> 
> Is there any way you can access the attic area directly under the roof?


 There is no attic area under that roof, it is just my sunroom, i am not replacing that unit, that exterior rust has to be from the roof patch i smeared all over.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

mayhem69 said:


> .....i am not replacing that unit, that exterior rust has to be from the roof patch i smeared all over.


That is your prerogative, but looking at the 2nd and 4th picture, it's clearly rust. There is no roof patch that comes in the color of rust....only black or clear.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

Mayhem - 

What's the slope of that roof?

I've had some trouble with similar units leaking on 4/12 and lower slopes.

But, it's not installed correctly as previously noted. The flange on the front of it needs to lap over the shingles, not under.

I'm pretty sure that's a Broan/Nutone vent jack. It may have been re-branded as Panasonic. 

Here's the installation instructions:

http://www.broan.com/ImageLibrary/broan/pdf/InstallGuides/99041929.pdf


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Don’t you install the vent to the felt in the same fashion with the lower part of the flange over the felt with the felt over the top of the flange?

I would think is papered properly and roofed as shown it still shouldn’t leak into the house. The water should run between the roofing and felt.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

ThatDaveGuy said:


> I think they're saying the vent lip should look this way:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yup. This is correct.
As you could see on yours, the water enters the roof at each lower corner.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> *Don’t you install the vent to the felt in the same fashion with the lower part of the flange over the felt with the felt over the top of the flange?*
> 
> I would think is papered properly and roofed as shown it still shouldn’t leak into the house. The water should run between the roofing and felt.


No, but on a lower slope roof (such as the OP's), I'd use some sort of peel & stick membrane to seal the sides and top to the underlayment. I'd probably also run a bead of roofing caulk around three sides of the hole and set the unit in it. With that valley dumping on it, a belt and suspenders approach is called for, IMHO.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

kwikfishron said:


> Don’t you install the vent to the felt in the same fashion with the lower part of the flange over the felt with the felt over the top of the flange?
> 
> I would think is papered properly and roofed as shown it still shouldn’t leak into the house. The water should run between the roofing and felt.


Water should always run over the shingle.

In any regard, the shingle job around the vent is incorrect. The right way to do it is shown in the picture posted above.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

handy man88 said:


> Water should always run over the shingle.
> 
> In any regard, the shingle job around the vent is incorrect. The right way to do it is shown in the picture posted above.


I know this what I’m saying is just the vent installed with felt only shouldn’t leak
.
I know that my prep alone on any siding job is enough to keep the house dry before the first piece of siding even hit’s the wall.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

kwikfishron said:


> I know this what I’m saying is just the vent installed with felt only shouldn’t leak
> .
> I know that my prep alone on any siding job is enough to keep the house dry before the first piece of siding even hit’s the wall.


Felt does absorb water though.

And, I don't think you can compare felt for siding vs. felt for roofing. Siding is vertical and thus water runs off easier than roofing, where water can back up.

I mean, you're asking for answers, but fighting the suggestions.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

I'd have one more shingle lower covering that metal. The only part of that flashing that should show is the edges along the shingle in a slight stair step cut and the bottom. It would also need some nails on the bottom and some silicone on the nails(even though they never leak). I have seen vents put in like this picture that leaked.

I agree with seeyou that the OP's picture has a Broan range cover. They are about $50. Moving it to a new location is more important than a little rust on it though. 

Get a roofer (a real roofer) out there to take a look. They should be able to find the leak. 

I would bet the leak is farther up and getting under the felt somewhere by that cover. Then following down to a break in the sheathing, then poly(if there is any), then through your wood ceiling.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

I'll be darned if I just didn't have my new roof put on a few weeks ago and put on a brand new Broan vent cover. It leaks. It leaks below it and far below it. The roofer came out and lifted the edge shingles a bit and put in some black lap. He then put it good around the edge where the shingles meet the vent cover. I'll test it tomorrow with the hose to make sure it doesn't leak. I'm a bit ticked off after spending all that money. I wish he would have just lifted all surrounding shingles, glopped that stuff under the vent edge, and then re-shingled with the black lap going under the edges better. He thinks it was running under the paper from the edge. The bottom is exposed as shown so at least it is installed correctly. I didn't have any leaks before I had a new roof put on, now I do, but the vent cover is new as the microwave exhaust fan used to just dump into the attic.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

There should be a nice thick bead of roof cement on the top and side of that vent. What's stopping the water from getting between the shingle edge and the unit?

You don't need to replace the unit, but you need to remove and re-install it. It wouldn't take more than a tube of roof cement and four roofing nails in material and a 1/2 hour worth of time to set that right and watertight.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

AGWhitehouse said:


> There should be a nice thick bead of roof cement on the top and side of that vent. *What's stopping the water from getting between the shingle edge and the unit?
> *


Flashing. Same as wall flashing. It needs no roof cement or tar.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Pirateghost said:


> I'll be darned if I just didn't have my new roof put on a few weeks ago and put on a brand new Broan vent cover. It leaks. It leaks below it and far below it. The roofer came out and lifted the edge shingles a bit and put in some black lap. He then put it good around the edge where the shingles meet the vent cover. I'll test it tomorrow with the hose to make sure it doesn't leak. I'm a bit ticked off after spending all that money. I wish he would have just lifted all surrounding shingles, glopped that stuff under the vent edge, and then re-shingled with the black lap going under the edges better. He thinks it was running under the paper from the edge. The bottom is exposed as shown so at least it is installed correctly. I didn't have any leaks before I had a new roof put on, now I do, but the vent cover is new as the microwave exhaust fan used to just dump into the attic.


 Using caulk around a vent ensures that water will enter and that it will leak. No 'roofer' would use caulk on it.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

AGWhitehouse said:


> There should be a nice thick bead of roof cement on the top and side of that vent. What's stopping the water from getting between the shingle edge and the unit?
> 
> You don't need to replace the unit, but you need to remove and re-install it. It wouldn't take more than a tube of roof cement and four roofing nails in material and a 1/2 hour worth of time to set that right and watertight.


 Remove it and reinstall it WITHOUT any caulk is what would be correct.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Roofers bring shingles and ice and water shield for a roof repair.

Handymen/carpenters bring caulk.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

Originally, it did not have sealant along the edges. It leaked. Broan instructions call for sealant on the sides. I think the water was running sideways off the side flashing, under the shingles, and then under the paper to the plywood joint where the water dripped out. I don't that have that steep of a pitch roof so I could actually see this happening. I am a bit apprehensive to remove and try without any form of sealant.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Pirateghost said:


> Originally, it did not have sealant along the edges. It leaked. Broan instructions call for sealant on the sides. I think the water was running sideways off the side flashing, under the shingles, and then under the paper to the plywood joint where the water dripped out. I don't that have that steep of a pitch roof so I could actually see this happening. I am a bit apprehensive to remove and try without any form of sealant.


 Pitch could be a factor, but if it's that low, it may be too low for shingles.

This one doesn't have Ice and Storm shield, nor does it have caulk. I had just reinstalled it in this pic. It's in view of the Hatteras Lighthouse and gets hurricane or tropical storm tested several times a year.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

tinner666 said:


> Pitch could be a factor, but if it's that low, it may be too low for shingles.
> 
> This one doesn't have Ice and Storm shield, nor does it have caulk. I had just reinstalled it in this pic. It's in view of the Hatteras Lighthouse and gets hurricane or tropical storm tested several times a year.


That's a different type of shingle though.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

It was built with shingles in 1993. The attic is only 4' tall in the center. If I wasn't so lazy, I would look up how to measure a pitch and then reply, but I can't change the pitch of my roof. I have 2 options. Remove the vent and shingle over the hole, or seal the vent up so it doesn't leak with sealants.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

If it got caulk, it would first have to be shingled until the top of a shingle reached, or almost reached the top of the opening, then, 2 beads around the opening, then set the unit in the caulk. Shingle around it and DO NOT CAULK anything else! Leave 1/4"-3/8" gap between the shingles and the sides!


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Oh!!!! Very inportant! If a shingle on top of it DOES NOT lay on the flange and PASS the top corner, it CANNOT be cut square! The top edge MUST be tapered to the outside of the flange.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

The edges were left unsealed. Just a small gap between the shingles and the edge of the vent. The water was migrating sideways under the shingles instead of down.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> Oh!!!! Very inportant! If a shingle on top of it DOES NOT lay on the flange and PASS the top corner, it CANNOT be cut square! The top edge MUST be tapered to the outside of the flange.


I would like to see a picture or drawing of that.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Not a vent, but the technique is the same.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Pix would help.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Like this one?

This other pic shows what happens when the shingles are cut square beside walls, vents, etc.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

I'll get some tomorrow. I ran the hose on it tonight, actually, down the roof toward the vent. No leaks after 30 min, a new record. I'll see tomorrow, rain next 2 days.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> Using caulk around a vent ensures that water will enter and that it will leak. No 'roofer' would use caulk on it.


So are you saying roofer's don't follow simple instructions? The installation instruction *.pdf is on page 1 of this post and it clearly shows roof cement at the edges. Why am I not surprised at contractors jumping on me for doing thing's PER THE PLANS and not "that's how it's done".

I've installed multiple vents on my roofs with roofing cement and after 5 years, no leaks....

TO NOTE: Any roofing system should work great without caulk. Caulk should NEVER be the main source of water mitigation. But caulking, as a secondary measure is just safe practice, because the mounting flanges don't have lipped edges to ensure the water travels around and down the vent. The roof cement just helps to ensure the bulk water stays on top of the shingles...


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> If it got caulk, it would first have to be shingled until the top of a shingle reached, or almost reached the top of the opening, then, 2 beads around the opening, then set the unit in the caulk. Shingle around it and DO NOT CAULK anything else! Leave 1/4"-3/8" gap between the shingles and the sides!


Again, read the installation instructions on page #1 of this post (Post #14 to be exact). yes, you *DO CAULK* the shingles to the side, but there is no need to caulk the unit to the deck.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

Conducted a 30 minute leak test, no leaks. I guess following Broans instructions worked.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

AGWhitehouse said:


> So are you saying roofer's don't follow simple instructions? The installation instruction *.pdf is on page 1 of this post and it clearly shows roof cement at the edges. Why am I not surprised at contractors jumping on me for doing thing's PER THE PLANS and not "that's how it's done".
> 
> I've installed multiple vents on my roofs with roofing cement and after 5 years, no leaks....
> 
> TO NOTE: Any roofing system should work great without caulk. Caulk should NEVER be the main source of water mitigation. But caulking, as a secondary measure is just safe practice, because the mounting flanges don't have lipped edges to ensure the water travels around and down the vent. The roof cement just helps to ensure the bulk water stays on top of the shingles...


 Interesting you should mention those instructions. I went back and read them. The brown vent in the pic I posted was done to those specs too. I fixed that issue. I redo 10-20 a year and they make me more profit than any other repair work I do.
SInce he said his was lo-slope, mayby I should have been more detailed in my explanation. You don't bed them in cement on lo-slope, 1-2 small beads under the flanges, 1" in and 1-1/2-2" in. Just as a backup. cement exposed to the weather, bonding 2 other dissimilar materials cracks all along the edges and water starts wicking in. SOmetimes so bad yu would think a garden hose was squirting water into the house.

I assume Broan is a major roofing company in the US, or even worldwide?


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

I'm guess they are not, however, I stated in my post that the cover was installed as you recommended in the first place, and it leaked. I don't know what the proper solution is. So what are you saying, to place sealant under between shingles and flange only but leave that exposed 90deg edge not filled in?


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

AGWhitehouse said:


> So are you saying roofer's don't follow simple instructions? The installation instruction *.pdf is on page 1 of this post and it clearly shows roof cement at the edges. Why am I not surprised at contractors jumping on me for doing thing's PER THE PLANS and not "that's how it's done".
> 
> I've installed multiple vents on my roofs with roofing cement and after 5 years, no leaks....
> 
> TO NOTE: Any roofing system should work great without caulk. Caulk should NEVER be the main source of water mitigation. But caulking, as a secondary measure is just safe practice, because the mounting flanges don't have lipped edges to ensure the water travels around and down the vent. The roof cement just helps to ensure the bulk water stays on top of the shingles...



I've installed hundreds of these and possibly thousands of roof vents with no tar or roofing cement. Never had one leak yet. Those instructions are for people who walk into Menards to buy one and have never even seen one before.

Tell me how that is any different than a flashing on the wall or a roof vent. No one seals roof vents or flashing. It just creates problems.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

MJW said:


> I've installed hundreds of these and possibly thousands of roof vents with no tar or roofing cement. Never had one leak yet. Those instructions are for people who walk into Menards to buy one and have never even seen one before.
> 
> Tell me how that is any different than a flashing on the wall or a roof vent. No one seals roof vents or flashing. It just creates problems.


My roofer installed mine. It leaked with no sealant. Can you explain that?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

I still don't know what you have. It took me hours of searching to find these 3 pix of leaking vents. 

And I found another like the one in Hatteras. They ran the shingle up past the corner, but then caulked the waterway closed. The water hit the top of the vent, then was forced under the shingles on each side. Leaked like a sieve.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Pirateghost said:


> My roofer installed mine. It leaked with no sealant. Can you explain that?


 Not much of a roofer would be my guess.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> Not much of a roofer would be my guess.


I hope that isn't your professional opinion.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

Pirateghost said:


> My roofer installed mine. It leaked with no sealant. Can you explain that?


Have any pictures yet?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Pirateghost said:


> I hope that isn't your professional opinion.


 As stated, just a guess. I'm in the dark as to his abilities. He could be great and had a brain fade. We all do at least once.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

I won't have pics until the weekend. Too busy today and rain all day tomorrow.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

That is tar on that corner. The top shingle does go over the flashing and down the side. Edit: It's not really tar, it's some stuff called black lap. I looked it up, it's a valid product.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

That vent landed at an awkward spot as far as the shingles lay goes.
The first shingle that lays on top of the flange ends right at that top corner. It's very easy for the water hitting the back of the unit to simply cross onto the top of that shingle let water in. There's usually some wiggle room. I'd tried to lower the vent an inch (A), or raise it an inch and have that particular shingle under it (B).

A vertical bead of caulk under each side about an inch would prevent any windblown rian from getting under it using plan B.

Remember this pic? See how the caulk shortcuts the water flow by directing the water under the shngle? Now picture the top of the shingle landing parallel with the vent top. Same thing. Water goes sideways in both cases.

Blakc lap sounds like EPDM seal, Geocel 4500, or similar.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Now, picture my vent pic with a 1/2"-3/4" channel there, and no caulk. The shingle literally seals itself to the vent and the water rushes unimpeded down the roof instead of searching for a path.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

He swears by the black lap. Like I said, initially there was nothing along the edges, but it leaked. The shingles were not sealing themselves down to the flashing of the vent cover.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

The 3"pipe opening is farther under and over to the side than it appears so the rule of 50/50 will apply to plan B, btw.

* RUle of 50/50--50% of the a vent flashing should be exposed on the lower half, the other 50% covered by the field material. ( Roofing 101)


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

tinner666 said:


> I still don't know what you have. It took me hours of searching to find these 3 pix of leaking vents.
> 
> And I found another like the one in Hatteras. They ran the shingle up past the corner, but then caulked the waterway closed. The water hit the top of the vent, then was forced under the shingles on each side. Leaked like a sieve.


What's up with that nail hole through the shingle into the flashing in the last pic?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

I can't speak for the black lap. I'm not familiar with most caulk products, I use 10-12 tubes a year, maybe. And not on vents, just counterflashing where it's purpose is to fill in any voids in where metal to brick, or 'other' material meet each other.
I saw a pipe vent today that had 75% exposed, 25% covered with no signs of leakage.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

handy man88 said:


> What's up with that nail hole through the shingle into the flashing in the last pic?


 Just the kind of junk I spend my life fixing.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Also note that the improperly nailed shingle was sliding, hence the slot below the nail.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

You lucky dog, you! I was writing a proposal this morning and spotted a roof I did 12 years ago with the same vent in it. It was probably black when I installed it. Obviously, my plan 'B' was the correct one to follow as I stated earlier.
No storm shield, no caulk, no leak. I didn't even caulk the nails which won't rust because I only used roofing nails, not those EG you see in Lowes, or elsewhere.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

MJW said:


> I've installed hundreds of these and possibly thousands of roof vents with no tar or roofing cement. Never had one leak yet. Those instructions are for people who walk into Menards to buy one and have never even seen one before.


Spoken like a true contractor. "I don't follow those, they are for people who dont know what they're doing"...haha. Remember that abundant experience doing it the wrong way doesn't make it the right way. I've done lots of jobs where contractor's have to remove and replace things they've done because "I didn't read the plans, I just did it the way I always do it." 



MJW said:


> Tell me how that is any different than a flashing on the wall or a roof vent. No one seals roof vents or flashing. It just creates problems.


As I said, any flashing system should be installed to not need caulking. Caulk should and always be a secondary measure. If it leaks without caulk, it will leak with caulk. If it doesn't leak without caulk it shouldn't leak with caulk. I've never known caulk to create problems when it was installed as a secondary measure unless, of course, it was installed poorly as shown in tinner's pic....


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Pirateghost said:


> My roofer installed mine. It leaked with no sealant. Can you explain that?


 There could also be another explanation. Those vents are made of cheap metal with a single hem, and maybe tack-welds. When I looked at the one I installed, I realized there are two other things I do as normal as breathing and would never remember to comment on.
1st.- At the hemmed joints, I apply a gutter sealer on those joints inside AND outside hours before the install. 9Backup plan #1)
2nd. No matter what color it already is, I then paint it to match again because the coating they come with will allow them to rust through within a few years. Many never make it for the shingles' lifetime. My records show that I painted the one I installed silver.

These are things I do as second nature and never list them on my proposals. They are so necessary and so redundant that 'it goes without mention' so to speak that I will do them.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

AGWhitehouse said:


> Spoken like a *true contractor*. "I don't follow those, they are for people who dont know what they're doing"...haha. Remember that abundant experience doing it the wrong way doesn't make it the right way. I've done lots of jobs where contractor's have to remove and replace things they've done because "I didn't read the plans, I just did it the way I always do it."
> 
> 
> As I said, any flashing system should be installed to not need caulking. Caulk should and always be a secondary measure. If it leaks without caulk, it will leak with caulk. If it doesn't leak without caulk it shouldn't leak with caulk. I've never known caulk to create problems when it was installed as a secondary measure unless, of course, it was installed poorly as shown in tinner's pic....


Thank You.

If done correctly, you won't need a second measure. :thumbsup:

Some people are just not cut out to do roofing, but they still do it anyways. Those types usually aren't in business for 30+ years either.


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## Pirateghost (Oct 26, 2011)

Well, lots and lots of rain, no leaks. I'll keep an eye on it. Not sure if I should rip it all up and re do it or not.


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