# Garage DOOR WAY OFF DUE TO uneven slope!



## AtlanticWBConst.

dogdoc said:


> Hope this can go here; just installed a garage door; the one side is higher than the other so it hits the floor first leaving a sizeable space to the other corner; my buddy suggested a cement cap to make sure it hits evenly to releif pressure on one side and then cut a large rubber gasket to attach from the back side and forget it; not very attractive; my wife says in California b/c of the hills she has seen where they CUT the doors at angles to account for this kind of stuff...any ideas; it is an insulated door with those plastic like panels...dogdoc, Atlanta


Did you install the door, or did you have it professionally installed? If the garage floor is really the culprit and not an improperly installed door, then the only thing I could suggest is this item on the floor:

http://www.autobarn.net/brownparksmartgarageseal1.html

You could also add something to the door itself, like one of these gaskets (bottom door kits):

http://www.frostking.com/garagedoor.php


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## tmrrptr

Whew! I've seen some really ugly looking filler strips added to the bottom of garage doos... 3" on one end down to nothing on the other... there was certainly no drainage problem!
maybe can get one from the door supplier>
r


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## SNIRTSTOPPER

*Uneven Garage Door Fix --- So easy even I did it myself!*

My Father-In-Law had the same problem with his roll up shed door. It had gaps between the concrete floor and the bottom of the garage door when the door closed down. It was like the concrete slab wasn't level, so there was about a 2 inch gap at one end of the door and then about a 1/2" gap at the other end. He didn't want to pour more concrete to try and level it. So I researched the web and found a garage door seal online. They called a snirtstopper. I called it a "hey why didn't I think of inventing that!". I couldn't believe how easy it was to install; just a few self-tapping screws. It has a wide flap on top that the screws go through that made it possible to adjust how high and low you want the seal to go so it matches the contour of the floor. If there is a way to load pictures I could show you what I mean. But anyways...now the gaps are sealed and no more draft coming in, and he's happy!


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## ratherbefishing

I had the same problem. I cut a piece of PT 2x to the correct taper and attached it to the bottom of the door. Attached the gasket to the bottom of the wood. The gray color of the PT wood sorta disappears when the door is down.


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## Tham

The only way I know is a custom door they can cut, or one of those beautiful things they mentioned above.

Tham


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## Thurman

I've done a couple of doors as "ratherbefishing" has done and it works rather well. The first thing to do is to determine IF the concrete is sloped and how much within the width of the door.


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## ratherbefishing

And, you may have to increase the tension on the springs, as it will make the door a little heavier.


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## WhoHasThePencil

Woe be unto the average homeowner. You hire a contractor and have no idea how incompetent they are until long later. I assumed concrete was rather self-levelling when being poured. It is not. The amount of slope this can create in the floor is amazing. I did a nice job of framing in the openings for 2 garage doors, perfectly square and plumb. Now mice are getting in, making a mess everywhere. Have reviewed many products for garage door seals, and so far NONE of them will help or are really designed to solve this problem. It does appear the only solution is to install scribed long wedges on the bottom door edges, plus a rubber seal as described by others above. To get a good fit is not as easy as it sounds. As usual, I find that I spend a great deal of time and effort trying to correct for poor contractor work, no matter what the job. I've tried to be a careful shopper when hiring, but there is just no way to anticipate all the problems they will create.


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## ratherbefishing

My garage used to be a carport. I figured the floor was sloped for drainage. To scribe the filler, remove the seal, lower the door. Place the 2x on the floor, behind the door, with someone holding it up against the door. Run a pencil under the door. Cut with circular saw. Caulk, attach with screws, attach rubber seal.


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## Tham

pencil
Nice first post,
Tham


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## SNIRTSTOPPER

WhoHasThePencil said:


> Woe be unto the average homeowner. You hire a contractor and have no idea how incompetent they are until long later. I assumed concrete was rather self-levelling when being poured. It is not. The amount of slope this can create in the floor is amazing. I did a nice job of framing in the openings for 2 garage doors, perfectly square and plumb. Now mice are getting in, making a mess everywhere. Have reviewed many products for garage door seals, and so far NONE of them will help or are really designed to solve this problem. It does appear the only solution is to install scribed long wedges on the bottom door edges, plus a rubber seal as described by others above. To get a good fit is not as easy as it sounds. As usual, I find that I spend a great deal of time and effort trying to correct for poor contractor work, no matter what the job. I've tried to be a careful shopper when hiring, but there is just no way to anticipate all the problems they will create.


The snirtstopper seal we got keeps out the draft and dirt from blowing in. The packaging mentioned it keeps out rodents too, but we haven't had any problems with critters like that...yet. Might be worth looking into if you haven't gotten a fix yet.


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