# DIY Skim coating



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Wash the walls to make sure that all old wallpaper paste is removed---if the paint is shiny prime with an oil or shellac based primer.

Do not sand---lead paint--and not needed any way.

Use All purpose--the green lid---this is a setting compound and contains glue----

After the first coat or two you may wish to switch to 'light weight'---the blue lid--it's much easier to sand than the 'all purpose'---

If you need to do a lot of sanding--consider renting a power drywall sander.---Mike---


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I'd like to put in an important step- after cleaning the adhesive off and before skimming- prime with Zinsser Gardz- It will prevent any glue residue from causing problems later, and will help adhesion to the plaster. Great stuff- solves many problems, easy to use.


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## Majoram (Jun 14, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> Wash the walls to make sure that all old wallpaper paste is removed---if the paint is shiny prime with an oil or shellac based primer.
> 
> Do not sand---lead paint--and not needed any way.
> 
> ...


Thanks!
- So the mud goes straight on to the paint?
- What is the last grit sandpaper that I should use for finishing the surface?

By the way, the paint is a semi-gloss Latex (no lead in it).



Brushjockey said:


> I'd like to put in an important step- after cleaning the adhesive off and before skimming- prime with Zinsser Gardz- It will prevent any glue residue from causing problems later, and will help adhesion to the plaster. Great stuff- solves many problems, easy to use.


Ah! The tutorials on skim coating mentioned stuff for bonding. Except they called it PVA?

Not sure if I will be able to find the "Zinsser Gardz" in Canada but I will search.
Just in case, would you know any other similar stuff?

Thanks!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Brushjockey said:


> I'd like to put in an important step- after cleaning the adhesive :yesff and before skimming- prime with Zinsser Gardz- It will prevent any glue residue from causing problems later, and will help adhesion to the plaster. Great stuff- solves many problems, easy to use.


You thought I might not be watching?:laughing:


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Majoram said:


> Thanks!
> - So the mud goes straight on to the paint?
> - What is the last grit sandpaper that I should use for finishing the surface?
> 
> ...


Sherwin Williams sells similar stuff called "drywall conditioner" I think.If you have to order it ,this is actually the best ( better than Gardz, who stole the formula) Draw Tite

http://www.scotchpaint.com/drawtite.html


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

oh'mike said:


> Wash the walls to make sure that all old wallpaper paste is removed---if the paint is shiny prime with an oil or shellac based primer.
> 
> Do not sand---lead paint--and not needed any way.
> 
> ...


At least you did not use the g word:laughing:


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Glue-----I hate it when they glue the wall paper!!!!


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

I would respectfully disagree with O'Mike about sanding. The first thing I do after the washing of paste residue has dried is sand. I use an eighty weight paper and sand all walls, by hand. This removes any rough areas, in addition to paper and adhesive bits, that interfere with getting a smooth spackle patch. Then I prime. After the primer has dried, I sand again, with 120 or so. As I sand with one hand, I am feeling the walls with the other. Many times your feel will find things your eye doesn't catch, like nail pops at the ceiling line on drywall. Also, I mark off everything that needs spackle with a pencil. Marking with the pencil creates a roadmap of where I need to spackle when I get there. I find the hand sand/feel and use of the pencil reduces my between coat spackle touch ups to practically zero. On ceilings, I attach a pencil to an extension pole and walk the room marking all ceiling defects. I tried to get this procedure established years ago when working for another guy. He rejected it saying it took too much time. Really? He did mostly all the wall prep, and I would watch him walk around, tray in hand, looking for things to fix. Our between coat fixes were numerous, and sometimes we had to repaint entire walls to repair stuff after the final coat, or leave a nail pop or such not repaired on the final coat. Some people are penny wise and pound foolish.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

jsheridan said:


> I would respectfully disagree with O'Mike about sanding. .


J--I was off base on that---Just getting a bit carried away with the RRP crap.

I typically sand before starting,too.


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## warnerd3 (Aug 7, 2011)

*Don't stop now!*

I was hoping for more info! I'm doing the same thing over mortar lathe and plaster that has water damage. Some of the lathe and plaster came off down to the structural brick (there's also brick veneer outside) I screwed on some metal lathe and put two scratch coats of structural plaster. I had to order the Diamond finish plaster which will match the existing 1932 hard polished. I sanded the areas where the wallpaper was and will prime with Zinsser then attempt to float the entire wall. I too watched the online skim coat videos and love the look of polished plaster. The attached pic is before the wallpaper was removed and before sanding. Wish me luck. And let me know if anyone has other any suggestions.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Prime the whole mess with Gardz before you do anything, then have at it.You got a job ahead of you.:laughing:


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

That wall is going to need at least one coat of Zinsser Cover Stain, probably two, one before repair one after. No latex product will block that stuff.


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## warnerd3 (Aug 7, 2011)

*Thanks chrisn and jsheridan*

I've purchased the Zinnser Bullseye 123 plus because of it's mildew inhibitor. The wallpaper was moldy and I had to bleach the wall after scraping it off. Let it sit a couple of days with a dehumidifier, then washed and sanded off high spots from lots of other previous repairs. Cleaned up the mess and spent the day today cooking Puerco Pibil and Korean Pork Bone soup. Way more fun. 
Tomorrow I get back at it and finish the prep and paint a couple of ceilings while I wait for my finish plaster to get to the store. Not one Lowes or Depot carries finish stuff - they recommended I use drywall mud. That probably would have lasted a couple of weeks if I was lucky. If the arthritis in my hands holds out I'll have this place rented by the end of the month!!! Thanks for the suggestions !


FemmeDIYersRock :thumbup:


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

oh mike said:


> Wash the walls to make sure that all old wallpaper paste is removed---if the paint is shiny prime with an oil or shellac based primer.
> 
> Do not sand---lead paint--and not needed any way.
> 
> ...


 i agree but just to be safe check for lead .you can get a test kit about 8 swabs for about 25 dollars at lowes or s/w it takes about 5 min to read directions and about 1 min to test you will know right on the spot


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## Majoram (Jun 14, 2011)

warnerd3 said:


> I was hoping for more info! I'm doing the same thing over mortar lathe and plaster that has water damage. Some of the lathe and plaster came off down to the structural brick (there's also brick veneer outside) I screwed on some metal lathe and put two scratch coats of structural plaster. I had to order the Diamond finish plaster which will match the existing 1932 hard polished. I sanded the areas where the wallpaper was and will prime with Zinsser then attempt to float the entire wall. I too watched the online skim coat videos and love the look of polished plaster. The attached pic is before the wallpaper was removed and before sanding. Wish me luck. And let me know if anyone has other any suggestions.


Thanks for sharing your method. Hope I can get started on mine soon.

Good luck! This is a small area of what I have to deal with:
(Took some close ups so you can see the damaged areas and what the green stuff looks like)


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Wow---that's a lot of wall! Good luck and have fun.

Remember there are power drywall sanders available to rent.

That's a lot of wall--Mike---


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## Majoram (Jun 14, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> Wow---that's a lot of wall! Good luck and have fun.
> 
> Remember there are power drywall sanders available to rent.
> 
> That's a lot of wall--Mike---


yup it's a lot 

My wife keeps saying we should hire someone but I know it will cost at least 2000 for the area we have.

Thanks for the power sander suggestion.

warnerd3 mentioned Lowes & HD do not have the stuff for finishing?!
I saw lots of tubs at my local HD and Lowes that mention "for finishing".

Is it not good to use that stuff? Is there something else I should look for?


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## warnerd3 (Aug 7, 2011)

*finish stuff*

Hey Majoram, 
It's just like eating an elephant - one bite at a time. With a couple of days things look much better. I got my walls clean, sanded and primed and it's a whole lot less scary looking. I used the Zinnser Bullseye 123 because it's supposed to mildew resistant. 
What 'finish' stuff are you seeing at your home stores? And what part of the country are you in? I don't want to use drywall mud to float this because it 
can be soft, and these are exterior masonry walls. Do your stores carry the Diamond plaster? It's for a polished plaster finish and I'd love to give it a try. It hardens up like stone and has a two hour work time. If I can find it. I ordered from Lowes online and they call to tell me that I had to order a pallet. I need one 50 lb bag - $15. I'm still looking but I think it's going to have to be drywall and plaster supply, if they'll sell to the public.:huh:
Oh, and to remove the two coats of paint and 1930s wallpaper I cored the wall through to the plaster, used a spray bottle of warm water and a scraper. It came off pretty easy but in tiny pieces. Took one whole day. Washed he wall down with a 3M green pad and soapy water and rags. Then sanded with an orbital sander. STILL found a two inch square I missed. Just scrubbed it off and primed when it was dry. Good luck Keep us up to date with pics.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

This skim coating has been covered many times-----

After priming----start with the 'All purpose' --that has the green lid--it is a 'setting' compound and contains glue.

All purpose is a hard mud--difficult to sand.

Next change to 'light weight'---blue lid----softer when dry and easier to sand---best for the top coat if your application skills are 

what's a nice word?--oh, Modest.

Good luck,Mike--


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