# Drywall into Ceiling Joists?



## dtmbizzle (Mar 27, 2007)

Is it ok to hang drywall directly into your ceilign joists? I've heard both yes, and no. 

I don't really want to go to the trouble of cross beaming a ton of metal furring chnnels, mainly because the recessed lights i have up there won't be able to sit down far enough from where they are attached to the joists. 

Any feedback much appreciated.


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## Darylh (Jan 2, 2006)

dtmbizzle said:


> Is it ok to hang drywall directly into your ceilign joists? I've heard both yes, and no.
> 
> I don't really want to go to the trouble of cross beaming a ton of metal furring chnnels, mainly because the recessed lights i have up there won't be able to sit down far enough from where they are attached to the joists.
> 
> Any feedback much appreciated.


 If you mean directly onto the joists themselves yes you can. Most of the time they strap the ceiling to make it flatter or to miss any obstacles that are in the way. I do like straping them though which means moving any lights down.


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## dtmbizzle (Mar 27, 2007)

Darylh said:


> If you mean directly onto the joists themselves yes you can. Most of the time they strap the ceiling to make it flatter or to miss any obstacles that are in the way. I do like straping them though which means moving any lights down.


thnx for your reply!

By strapping, do you mean adding on a little furring, with some shims if needed (to level everything out?) I've checked the the ceiling with a level, and it appears to be very good. As far as obstacles, there's tons of wiring, but it's all run thru the pre-cut holes in the middle of the joists, so i don't ahve to worry about any of that. The only thing im worried about it the floor flexing a little over time, because it is walked over (above) a lot. Is this an issue, or ?


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## jiggyjack (Mar 30, 2007)

Depends on the span, but I would say a safe bet is go ahead and install onto the joist. If deflection is a big problem then straps are not going to help much.


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## Darylh (Jan 2, 2006)

dtmbizzle said:


> thnx for your reply!
> 
> By strapping, do you mean adding on a little furring, with some shims if needed (to level everything out?) I've checked the the ceiling with a level, and it appears to be very good. As far as obstacles, there's tons of wiring, but it's all run thru the pre-cut holes in the middle of the joists, so i don't ahve to worry about any of that. *The only thing im worried about it the floor flexing a little over time, because it is walked over (above) a lot.* *Is this an issue, or ?*


Thats one of the reasons we use 5/8" drywall (noise reduction to). It is more dense and flexes less between joists along with a good taping job your good to go :thumbup:


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

dtmbizzle said:


> .....By strapping, do you mean adding on a little furring, with some shims if needed (to level everything out?) I've checked the the ceiling with a level, and it appears to be very good. As far as obstacles, there's tons of wiring, but it's all run thru the pre-cut holes in the middle of the joists, so i don't ahve to worry about any of that. The only thing im worried about it the floor flexing a little over time, because it is walked over (above) a lot. Is this an issue, or ?


If you've got that much deflection, then you've got more serious problems to be looking at. 

For instance: Tile flooring is placed on 2nd and 3rd level floors and does not have deflection problems on "modern day, normally constructed homes".
You should not have issues with your beams being wrapped in sheetrock, unless you have some serious and unusual load bearing and structural issues in your home.

Here's an example of furring out a beam with wood "strapping" in order to add sheetrock and hide electrical wiring (wiring is for two ceiling fans):


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## warnerww (Apr 9, 2007)

Hang the drywall you are fine. The only reason to use 5/8 rock is fire protection ( I do recommend that).


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

warnerww said:


> Hang the drywall you are fine. The only reason to use 5/8 rock is fire protection ( I do recommend that).


Yes, agreed, FWIW - the areas in the pictures I posted were hung with 1/2" S/R, with the exception of one wall. 
That one wall was hung with 5/8" because it was a fire-rated separation wall connected to the garage.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

...and actually, the more dense a material is, the less it flexes, and the more likely it is to "crack". 
Thus, 1/2" S/R is less likely to crack than 5/8" S/R in an area that has settling or unusual deflection issues...


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## crecore (Nov 2, 2005)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> ...and actually, the more dense a material is, the less it flexes, and the more likely it is to "crack".
> Thus, 1/2" S/R is less likely to crack than 5/8" S/R in an area that has settling or unusual deflection issues...


Good point, hey fire code here requires double layer of 5/8 between attached garage and house... you too? So if it's new construction I put 5/8" on both sides, if it's an add on garage you have to put two layers in the garage on the mating wall.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

crecore said:


> Good point, hey fire code here requires double layer of 5/8 between attached garage and house... you too? So if it's new construction I put 5/8" on both sides, if it's an add on garage you have to put two layers in the garage on the mating wall.


Code here is 1 layer of fire-rated 5/8" for such a structural residential design.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Some fire-rating information regarding partition walls and wall materials:

http://www.cdc.gov/nasd/docs/d001501-d001600/d001529/d001529.html


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## retiree (Nov 15, 2004)

dtmbizzle said:


> Is it ok to hang drywall directly into your ceilign joists? I've heard both yes, and no.
> 
> I don't really want to go to the trouble of cross beaming a ton of metal furring chnnels, mainly because the recessed lights i have up there won't be able to sit down far enough from where they are attached to the joists.
> 
> Any feedback much appreciated.


Absolutely hang it right on the joists. 

They make a self drilling 1 1/4" screw for metal beams. Do you have the 20 guage or 25 guage metal beams?


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## JFD140 (Aug 6, 2007)

Definitely just hang it on the beams if it inst out of level and wavy. There is no reason why you shouldn't be able to hang it on the beams, i personally always do. As for 1/2 vs 5/8 i personally would take the 1/2. 5/8 rock is about 70-80 pounds a board i believe, and its not fun putting up a board of 1/2 on a ceiling let alone 5/8. And don't anybody say, o its not that heavy i don't care who you are, putting 5/8 on a ceiling is no picnic.

dadflyn, its called a self tapping screw. Hilti makes great ones in all sizes they also make them for heavy gauge metal. As far as 20 or a 25 gauge beam, i hope you are talking about studs and track for framing because if your house has a structural beam made of 20 or 25 gauge metal you have sheet metal holding up your house.


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## jiggyjack (Mar 30, 2007)

Use 5/8s rock!! You will regret it in a couple of years if you use half. 

Rent a lift there like $30.00 a day where I'm from, hell even if you use half a lift is still worth it.


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## warnerww (Apr 9, 2007)

jiggyjack said:


> Use 5/8s rock!! You will regret it in a couple of years if you use half.
> 
> Rent a lift there like $30.00 a day where I'm from, hell even if you use half a lift is still worth it.


I have to ask. Why will he regret using 1/2 inch.


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## mike canton (Aug 25, 2007)

5/8 regular is fire resistant? I thought this was a special drywall called something like type x that had to be used?

guess i'll have to research this for my house, because I only require 1 piece against my garage/house and it has to be type x not regular drywall



Mike


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

warnerww said:


> I have to ask. Why will he regret using 1/2 inch.


My thought too: We have beams that we hung 20+ years ago with 1/2" Sheetrock that still have zero problems....


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mike canton said:


> 5/8 regular is fire resistant? I thought this was a special drywall called something like type x that had to be used?
> 
> guess i'll have to research this for my house, because I only require 1 piece against my garage/house and it has to be type x not regular drywall
> 
> ...


5/8" Type X sheetrock is "Fire-rated', not "fire-resistant".
It is rated as "one hour" fire protection per full wall layer.

More information:

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/resources/safetyinformation/


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