# Adhere Drywall to Residential Studs?



## USP45 (Dec 14, 2007)

It gives a more secure bond, helps stop screws or nails from poping out should the studs move.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

I've never heard of a good drywall hanger not using glue.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

It's a regional thing. 

We have a division in our company that has been doing drywall since the early 80's, as well as knowing many, many other drywallers in our area. 

Neither we, nor any one of them have ever used, nor been required to apply adhesives for sheetrock. That includes it not being listed as part of any installation procedures in the hundreds upon hundreds of plans that we have reviewed over the years -(Residential, offices, apts, condos, hospitals, schools, industrial, etc....)

We have never had any failures on walls because of this. It is also not required by any codes in our area.

As stated, it's a regional thing.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> It's a regional thing.
> 
> We have a division in our company that has been doing drywall since the early 80's, as well as knowing many, many other drywallers in our area.
> 
> ...


Whatever works. I find that when using glue, we reduce the number of screws used. We typically go with: Ceilings, two in the field 16" o.c, three 24" o.c, and only one in the field on the walls. This is assuming the walls/ceilings are straight and true.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

jerryh3 said:


> Whatever works. I find that when using glue, we reduce the number of screws used. We typically go with: Ceilings, two in the field 16" o.c, three 24" o.c, and only one in the field on the walls. This is assuming the walls/ceilings are straight and true.


I don't know where you hang your sheetrock, but in our region, Building Codes require one screw every 12", regardless of adhesive use (Building Code Materials Fastener Schedule).


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> I don't know where you hang your sheetrock, but in our region, Building Codes require one screw every 12", regardless of adhesive use (Building Code Materials Fastener Schedule).


Maryland. No code enforcement on panel fastener schedule.(Or at least no inspector has ever said anything for the past 1000+ homes). So I guess you are right about the regional thing.


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

I have done projects in various parts of county. Some use glue, others don't. I subed out the drywall on my basement project. The "standard" from the sub I went with was glued, nailed at top edge and screwed. I didn't even question it.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

Our area (central Iowa) requires 5 in the field, and 6 on ends, glue doesn't change the mechanical fastener req's. I had a house '73 version that had the glued drywall, with 2 screws in the field. Nearly every sheet in the house had loose drywall...meaning you could push the drywall back to the stud. A kitchen reno revealed that the glue held tight...the paper though let go of the DW. Every sheet had a stripe on the back where every bit of paper pulled off where it was glued to the stud. I pray they are making the DW better these days! I was never sooooo glad to get out of a house....every corner brought another joyful nugget....


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## TomBrooklyn (Jan 6, 2008)

jerryh3 said:


> I find that when using glue, we reduce the number of screws used. We typically go with: Ceilings, two in the field 16" o.c, three 24" o.c, and only one in the field on the walls. This is assuming the walls/ceilings are straight and true.


Hi Jerry,
I'm not sure if I'm understanding you right. Are you saying you attach 4' x 8' drywall to a ceiling with 2 screws and on walls with one screw, not counting the edge screws? BTW, how many screws do you put on the edges? And what would thickness of sheet rock are you using?


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## mt232 (Sep 25, 2006)

*Did the glue come along when nails were still being used?*

I wish my old nailed drywall had glue, or screws.....as my add a level is almost complete, almost every ceiling on the 1st floor has cracked, shifted, or at least had most nails pop out.......


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

TomBrooklyn said:


> Hi Jerry,
> I'm not sure if I'm understanding you right. Are you saying you attach 4' x 8' drywall to a ceiling with 2 screws and on walls with one screw, not counting the edge screws? BTW, how many screws do you put on the edges? And what would thickness of sheet rock are you using?


1/2" 4' X 12' sheets mostly. 5/8" in garages with common walls. Yes, a good bead of glue with two screws in the field(3 w/ 24" o.c. ceilings) and one on the walls. The edges usually get two on the first sheet and three on the sheet that butts against that. I know this goes against what most fastner schedules call for, but in the 30+ years my father hung drywall and the ten I worked with him, we never received a complaint about the quality of hanging or the methods we used. Of course this was only with straight and true walls. We always increased the fasteners if needed(bowed, twisted, damaged, excessive insulation, thick strike plates.) And again, this is only one method from one person. People have to use whatever they feel comfortable doing and what their local code calls for.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mt232 said:


> I wish my old nailed drywall had glue, or screws.....as my add a level is almost complete, almost every ceiling on the 1st floor has cracked, shifted, or at least had most nails pop out.......


That's not neccessarily a result of using screws and no glue. 

If the sheetrock is tightly affixed to the framing ......and the framing settles, shrinks, moves, shifts, etc......the more damage you will have on the drywall surface. 

Example: This is especially the case if you have truss systems in your ceiling and the plates flex seasonally. Tightly affixed sheetrock will get wrecked, with all kinds of cracks and popped screws.

Also Link Discussion: http://www.contractortalk.com/showthread.php?t=22418&highlight=adhesive


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> That's not neccessarily a result of using screws and no glue.
> 
> If the sheetrock is tightly affixed to the framing ......and the framing settles, shrinks, moves, shifts, etc......the more damage you will have on the drywall surface.
> 
> ...


This is very true. On wide houses with truss roofs, we usually hold back the screws near the interior walls 16". This allows a little truss uplift and prevents the corner tape from splitting between the wall and ceiling. At least that's the way it's supposed to work.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

*2006 IRC schedule*

Dusted off the 2006 IRC. Sorry for the bad scan.


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## select drywall (Jan 10, 2008)

on the walls we use heavy glue and 2 or 3 screws in the middle per sheet not per stud. As long as you dont glue the sheet to far ahead of time it will bond. Our builders can attest to this as you will not remove drywall without it busting to pieces. Also fewer screws in the field actually straighten walls and span bowed studs. By floating ceiling corners and keeping everything tight we have made our year end touch ups virtually nonexistint. How anyone can stand behind there product and not use glue is beyond me. If drywall is loose and glued more then likely someone glued out a hole room before they hung. this causes glue to set up before drywall is attached. We glue 2 sheets at a time. Also chuck the nails there antiques. Non of my guys will ever carry a nail. It again will cost you $ to fix when it pops. Any drywaller worth the $ can stand behind his product.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

About 5 years ago I was called in to inspect drywall ceiling failures on the first & second floors of a 40 year old home. The ceilings had not collapsed, but sagging. I’ve seen many a roller coaster ½” rock on 2’oc trusses in FL houses built in the 70’s. To my surprise the sag was total like the underside of a bowl wall to wall. 

The builder homeowner wanted to try something new. He glued the ceilings up (must have had a lot of dead men) Not the first nail. This was conventional frame 16” oc.

Don’t know if heat or time caused the adhesive (liquid nail like) to stretch. I opened up some areas … the glue was hard and the drywall to out of shape to attempt jack it up and screw.

If you glue fans want to sleep well when you get older… please screw or nail to code & good tried and true practice along with your glue.


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## select drywall (Jan 10, 2008)

going on 20 years installing drywall the last 10 as a company. I have never not once ever had a problem in that time with sagging or loose sheets. A good part of those years we were turning out 40 houses a month. If any of my guys ever didnt glue they know they would be in huge trouble, possibly fired on the spot. This is a tested and approved method. What you are talking about seems more like water damage. Unless your temps are in the 100's inside I dont see glue ever loosining. . I will say this though. You guys who insist on not gluing or using all those uneeded amount of screws are insuring my repair guys future work and job security. So keep it up. Also keep using straightflex instead of ultraflex. That has kept one guy busy about 10 days a month just going into other drywallers houses and replacing the cracked straightflex for the homeowner.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

select drywall said:


> going on 20 years installing drywall the last 10 as a company....If any of my guys ever didnt glue they know they would be in huge trouble, possibly fired on the spot. This is a tested and approved method.... I will say this though. You guys who insist on not gluing or using all those uneeded amount of screws are insuring my repair guys future work and job security. So keep it up...


Um, er, well ....we've been a state licensed company that also does drywall and plaster, actually longer than you've been working in the business, and we NEVER glue. We've never had a problem. As stated in an earlier post, we have done schools, public buildings, industries, town & state buildings, hospitals, condos, apts, mansions, stores, houses, malls, etc, etc. - even EXTERIOR Soffit-Board work, with onsite structural/design engineers and architects - inspecting and supervising every aspect of the project.....with NEVER a single problem, issue, sag, crack, or call back .... because of not using glue.

Today, we did have one crew use glue. They were installing Quite Rock over existing walls in a condo remodeling of a building in Boston. They were using glue along with their screws because it was an "overlay" kind of installation. 

If you insist that Glue is the way to go (it is an "opinion", and you are entitled to it)...and that is fine, as I am all for overkill (within reason) when it comes to building and construction. However, to state that not using it, is guaranteed that you will have problems is incorrect. (unless you live in a zone that is prone to earthquakes or tremors)


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

I think everyone can agree to disagree. Two different methods, they both work. Play nice.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

jerryh3 said:


> I think everyone can agree to disagree. Two different methods, they both work...


That's my point exactly.


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## mtaviator (Dec 26, 2007)

The *ONLY* way to hang dry wall is with 2 hour epoxy and alternating brass wood screws with 8d ring shank nails spaced at 4 inches. Anything else is insane!

I am kidding of course, just trying to stir the pot!

Seriously though, it seems to me, that regardless of the method, it's the quality of workmanship making the difference not the technique.


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## select drywall (Jan 10, 2008)

doesent the technique make the quality of workmanship though. I think alot of code requirements are over kill. However this is not one of them. imo Perhaps you guys use dried lumber. It typically appears like our builders get theres 24 hours after it was cut. We dont use glue on metal studs only wood. Perhaps where you are is different but here in pa we have a statewide code. And it calls for glue. I guess I am fond of it simply because I have to pay for call backs like screw pops. I have never been called back for too much glue. So it makes $$ sense.


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## TomBrooklyn (Jan 6, 2008)

*Does glue increase the STC of the wall?*

Does using glue make the wall transmit any less noise?


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

It's advertised to. I can usually bang on a wall and tell if glue was used, but I did it for a long time. There are a couple special adhesives that are made for laminating drywall layers for quiet rooms such as studios and theater rooms. 

http://www.greengluecompany.com/
http://www.quietsolution.com/html/quietglue.html


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## select drywall (Jan 10, 2008)

Thats funny. I do the same thing. Even when I am looking at a house I didnt do or visiting friends who have a new house I find myself banging walls without even thinking about it. Drives my wife nuts. My guys hate it as well. But you can tell alot by doing that. If your walls rattle it aint good.


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## johnrem (Feb 7, 2008)

always glue walls,never glue cielings.my 2 cents


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

johnrem said:


> always glue walls,never glue cielings.my 2 cents


That's more like a penny and a half. Can you justify the reasons for that?


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## johnrem (Feb 7, 2008)

ceilings need to be fully fastened with screws in the field anyways.glue would be a waste.gluing walls allows for less screws which makes for an easier and smoother finish.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

johnrem said:


> ceilings need to be fully fastened with screws in the field anyways.glue would be a waste.gluing walls allows for less screws which makes for an easier and smoother finish.


So, glue works on walls but not on ceilings?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

johnrem said:


> ceilings need to be fully fastened with screws in the field anyways.glue would be a waste.gluing walls allows for less screws which makes for an easier and smoother finish.


In my region, screws are required by code every 12" on sheetrock to be taped, more for blue board and plaster....whether you use glue or not....


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## nacko (Jan 29, 2008)

its interesting to read this thread and not have one of you experts quote any literature. every manufacturer of drywall publishes recommended installation instructions for attaching the different drywall assemblies, and if it isn't installed per the manufacturer's instructions, you face a liablility issue. Here's a sample page for a fire wall using 1/2" drywall (similar to one you might use on a house garage, only that would use a different system.
http://www.gp.com/build/PageViewer.aspx?.

In addition to this information, as some of you have stated you have local codes (which may or may not meet the manufacturer's instructions). And for UL listed assemblies, you must meet the specifications that are spelled out in the UL book of Fire Assemblies (which sometimes exceeds the manufacturer's instructions).

All of this literature spells out in detail, how far apart nails, screws, or whatever attachment methods are to be in field and on the edge, and if other means are used to attach, exactly what, how and how much.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

nacko said:


> its interesting to read this thread and not have one of you experts quote any literature. every manufacturer of drywall publishes recommended installation instructions for attaching the different drywall assemblies, and if it isn't installed per the manufacturer's instructions, you face a liablility issue. Here's a sample page for a fire wall using 1/2" drywall (similar to one you might use on a house garage, only that would use a different system.
> http://www.gp.com/build/PageViewer.aspx?.
> 
> In addition to this information, as some of you have stated you have local codes (which may or may not meet the manufacturer's instructions). And for UL listed assemblies, you must meet the specifications that are spelled out in the UL book of Fire Assemblies (which sometimes exceeds the manufacturer's instructions).
> ...


Actually, this "expert" did quote literauture. I posted the 2006 IRC fastening schedule for gypsum panels. The "literature" http://www.gp.com/BUILD/DocumentViewer.aspx?repository=BP&elementid=3139 you quoted advised to "get some friends and use t-braces to do the ceilings." These pamphlets are good for DIY's doing weekend projects that don't have the experience/knowledge that a skilled tradesperson has acquired by actually doing the work and seeing the effects of different installation methods.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

nacko said:


> its interesting to read this thread and not have one of you experts quote any literature......http://www.gp.com/build/PageViewer.aspx?.


 
I have no idea what that link goes to ?? (I get a blank page)

But here are two of the manufacturer's installation Guides (USG & National Gypsum:

http://www.usg.com/resources/handbooks/ViewSection.do?bookId=1&chapterNum=10&sectionNum=8

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/literature/GridMarX_tear.pdf


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## johnrem (Feb 7, 2008)

another tip...use nails (less expensive) wherever the fastener is covered with tape.use the screws in the field for better holding power and longer lasting finish (no nail pops)


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## 2bShawn (Jul 2, 2008)

Newbie Here...
OFF TOPIC sort off. I live in Arizona were all wall are rounded corners and textures walls. I am looking to have square corners and smooth walls. Is it possible or feasible to place square corners over the round and re-float the walls to smooth? Or does all of the drywall need to come down and start from scratch???
Thanks guys.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

2bShawn said:


> Newbie Here...
> OFF TOPIC sort off. I live in Arizona were all wall are rounded corners and textures walls. I am looking to have square corners and smooth walls. Is it possible or feasible to place square corners over the round and re-float the walls to smooth? Or does all of the drywall need to come down and start from scratch???
> Thanks guys.


Hi Newbi. Just to help you out:
Generally, it is best to start a new thread to ask such a question. You will get more responses, than attaching a question onto an older thread, that discusses something different. 

As far as your question goes: Standard metal corner bead is not the way to go. Because of the rounded edges (there are different dimensioned radiuses), metal corner bead's edges really can't reach the flat portion of the wall and align with it.
I suggest a No-Coat, pre-formed plastic and paper outside corner material. It can be found at drywall supply houses. It is installed using joint compound. ( Ifeel that this is the best method for what you wish to do): http://www.no-coat.com/.docs/pg/10136


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## 2bShawn (Jul 2, 2008)

*Thanks...*

Thanks for the thread tip and for the advice for the corners...saved me a lot of work! Have a great 4th of July!:thumbup:


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