# Laying concrete around deck posts.



## smartsid (Jan 9, 2016)

This is going to be my first DYI project which will involve building\extending a concrete patio under my deck and I have a couple of basic questions-

Is it ok to pour concrete around the deck posts or should I stay away from these to make provision for any future maintenance that may be needed on the deck, like replacing deck posts?
What sort of brick\block should I use to build a mini-retaining wall (max height 1-2 feet) to have a flat leveled concrete patio?
Do I need some sort of foundation for the retaining wall?
Do I need a gravel base for the retaining wall for water drainage if I plan to install a waterproof under deck ceiling?


Couple of pics attached 
Thanks,
Sid.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

None of what I can see that's already been built would meet modern codes.
Post set below grade, not on piers, slab to close to siding and grade.
What's your location?
Getting a permit for this?


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## smartsid (Jan 9, 2016)

Hmm..


> Post set below grade, not on piers


 Deck and posts were permitted and built and approved by county inspector.



> slab to close to siding and grade


 If I have understood this correctly, it was provided by builder

Location: Atlanta, GA
Not planning to get a permit for this.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I think the biggest question is where do you live or what is your frost line depth. That will define the other dimension of the project and may impact the order of construction.

The other thing I would do to help define the project would be to mark the existing TOC (top of concrete) on each and every post. Knowing the exact new height at each of them will tell you how high of a retaining wall, how much fill, etc, will be required. It may also promote a change to your final retaining wall placement and patio dimensions.

I would definately put all of those posts on concrete piers and post brackets as part of the project. By putting the pier TOC above the patio level, it solves the wood post/water problem and any future post replacement would be above grade level. Because of your deck height, this change may require additional deck bracing up at the beam level.

I would really reconsider extending the patio vs demo'ing it and pouring a new patio to the new dimensions. The cold joints between the two surfaces will be obvious. They are a potential point of water intrusion under the two slabs. If the textures aren't very similar, that will also be obvious. The color of them will be different for many years. Those comments are with the extension done well. Done poorly, exacerbates the appearance problems and might cause structural problems.

Do you have any concrete, retaining wall, or backfill experiance at all? If not you may be biting off more than you can chew for a first project.

Edit:I should have said something about engineering/design experience as well. Reading your no permit comment which I didn't see until after posting, all I can say is good luck with the project.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Why would anyone need to take a permit out for a patio extension that rest's on soil? What on Earth is there to inspect? The only reason a concrete patio or extension would require a permit is because the local citizens were lazy enough to allow their local building dept. to extort more money from them........


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Well, slope for one. 

I still wouldn't take one out. 

I'd form up a diamond around the posts so if you need to replace them you can just bust out the diamond and replace as necessary.


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## smartsid (Jan 9, 2016)

Thanks all for the responses!


> I'd form up a diamond around the posts so if you need to replace them you can just bust out the diamond and replace


Mort, can you please elaborate more on this? What exactly do I need to do?


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

smartsid said:


> Thanks all for the responses!
> 
> 
> Mort, can you please elaborate more on this? What exactly do I need to do?


A "diamond" is just a square box, say 18" square, turned at a 45 degree angle to the posts. The angle allows the control joints to be placed more efficiently.


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## smartsid (Jan 9, 2016)

jomama45 said:


> A "diamond" is just a square box, say 18" square, turned at a 45 degree angle to the posts. The angle allows the control joints to be placed more efficiently.


And have this square filled with regular mortar as well?


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Concrete, not mortar. If you're creative, you can form the diamond pad with expansion joint material and pour it the same time as the rest.


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## smartsid (Jan 9, 2016)

Thankyou jomama45!


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