# Trane XB 13 Condenser Fan



## clocert (Oct 14, 2010)

If it is the condenser fan, Check the contactor first.


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## TopTechnician (Jun 6, 2012)

Okay, when you mention the drip pan it leads me to wonder if you are talking about the indoor blower motor, not the outdoor condenser fan motor...?
...In which case it could be the blower relay.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Johnny0873 said:


> Load buzzing noise now coming from the unit.


The (relay) noise was always there but was masked by the fan noise? Could also be a high resistance connection causing a relay to oscillate.


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## Johnny0873 (Jun 13, 2012)

I cleaned the drip pan as I thought the float may have been the issue. It is definitly the outside motor unit. Happened tonight again. Ran for 5 minutes and then the motor slowed and shut down.

I checked all the connections and they don't look burned. Circuit board is blinking green.

Appreciate everyone's feedback. If its something I can handle, I would like to give it a try. Otherwise, I know when its time to call a professional.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Johnny0873 said:


> Happened tonight again. Ran for 5 minutes and then the motor slowed and shut down.


A thermal cut-out in the motor is kicking out because of overheating and the five minutes represents the thermal inertia of the motor? 

Measuring motor current may give a clue in this case. If the current is normal maybe the cut-out itself is faulty.

You could also try wrapping the motor with a plastic bag full of ice for a half hour or so and then see if the cooled motor goes for more than the five minutes.


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## TopTechnician (Jun 6, 2012)

Johnny, 
Do you have any electrical testing instruments? Like an ammeter, or volt meter?
Can you get to the motor to see if it is hot to the touch right after it shuts off?


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## clocert (Oct 14, 2010)

You said it is the outside unit. also the circuit board is blinking..WHERE is this circuit board ??


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## Johnny0873 (Jun 13, 2012)

TopTechnician said:


> Johnny,
> Do you have any electrical testing instruments? Like an ammeter, or volt meter?
> Can you get to the motor to see if it is hot to the touch right after it shuts off?


Yes Sir, I will check if the motor is hot today. Forgot to check that!


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## AirstarFilters (Jul 5, 2010)

TTB is basic condenser , shouldn't have a board with light, what is the system's model number?


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## rightit (Mar 5, 2011)

The 'load buzzing noise' is likely the compressor running at high pressure. You can't tell if a capacitor is bad by looking at it (unless it's bulged, but they don't always bulge). 1st thing I would do if you don't have a meter to measure the mfds is to replace the fan capacitor. at $5-$10, you don't lose much by trying. If the problem continues, it's likely the motor. For the capacitor, get the exact mfd (uf) rating and the same VAC or higher (i.e., 370VAC or 440 VAC).


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

AirstarFilters said:


> TTB is basic condenser , shouldn't have a board with light, what is the system's model number?


it would have a board.... he said it was a heat pump


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## Johnny0873 (Jun 13, 2012)

rightit said:


> The 'load buzzing noise' is likely the compressor running at high pressure. You can't tell if a capacitor is bad by looking at it (unless it's bulged, but they don't always bulge). 1st thing I would do if you don't have a meter to measure the mfds is to replace the fan capacitor. at $5-$10, you don't lose much by trying. If the problem continues, it's likely the motor. For the capacitor, get the exact mfd (uf) rating and the same VAC or higher (i.e., 370VAC or 440 VAC).


Replaced the contactor, and was planning to replace the capacitor but was sent the wrong part. Same problem. Waiting on the new capacitor before I change the motor. Must say, spiders love nesting in there. $20 well spent on swapping out the contactor. Thanks again to everyone.


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