# uneven butt



## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

I have more photos, but I think this one (above) should explain it all. What I have here is after removing the soffits, at first, I put up 1/2 drywall, and right away noticed that the existing ceiling is deeper than the new 1/2 drywall (beyond the tapered edge). So, I put 5/8" and now the tapered edge is closely even with most of the ceiling edges (in some areas, slightly more). Then I took a 4' leveler, the ceiling and the 5/8" pretty much left no gaps.

Now, onto the other side of the kitchen, same thing, removed soffits, just put up 5/8" (as in photo, you can see how the previous mud work, a line, was done with the soffit there), almost done with the ceiling. Next will be the walls, which will be 1/2". However, as I am also butt joint with some exiting walls, hopefully it's not way off.

Is this wrong?

I am still nervous about mudding it. I tend to mud and sand too much, then mud over again. Now, with this ceiling situation, I hope to do it fast and done right. I have hard time accepting convex. Not only that, how am I going to paint it with sand to match the exiting ceiling (especially without sprayer hopper gun)?


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Was the existing ceiling drywall 1/2" or 5/8"?
Either way you should be able to feather out the joint far enough where it shouldn't be an issue.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Geez...I read the title and thought I had mistakenly posted a pic of my wife from the wrong side.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Pull the level back and see how much filler there was on the old inside corner, perhaps removing another 6" of drywall would have made matching and filling easier.


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## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

> Was the existing ceiling drywall 1/2" or 5/8"?












Hard to tell. The existing ceiling and walls are drywall, not plaster. As you see the photo here, the two small 1/2" drywall square I patch up in the upper parts each side. The right side evens with existing wall, but the left side would need 5/8" (but I am going to leave it like this and hopefully put heavy mud on that one to puff it out). Also, if you look closely (not the wife's, the wall, OK), you can see the ceiling right above the right side is far out (but the left side is OK). Go ahead open this picture.

I was actually thinking about tear out all that section drywall, but then I would have to mess around with corner beams and it would lead to the family room (I don't want to go that far).



> Pull the level back and see how much filler there was on the old inside corner, perhaps removing another 6" of drywall would have made matching and filling easier.


You mean I pull the level back 16" or 20"? The leveler would still show same, almost no gaps. Were you saying I strip off the 6" of old mud (where see the lines) with a sander? I guess I could do that (and that would make mudding more widen). You suggesting that?

I just hope this won't be noticeable after it's all done, with all those bumps and convex. I even had two estimates people over (both from craigslist) just for mudding, one offer $300 and other $1,850. I want to keep my arm/legs.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You removed a drop box , soffet or what ever you called it. The drywall joint between the side of that box and the ceiling is a built up corner with tape and 3 coats of mud tapered out on the sheet. After removing the box you could have looked at the edge of the ceiling board and picked out the original paper, the tape and the thickness of filler.
Cutting out 6" more dry wall would have got rid of that build up.

We have popcorn ceilings because a perfect a ceiling is so hard and expensive. Leaving that build up of filler on the ceiling will make a good ceiling near impossible.


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## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

(5/8" drywall have 1/2" tapper edge)

I begun to tear the previous corner mud (so I can start new mudding). As some said, I now notice the 5/8" tapper edge match even with the ceiling (so ceiling appears to be 1/2"). Looks like I have no choice, but take down the 5/8" (and throw it all away) and replace it with 1/2" now.

So, as I will change the ceiling to 1/2", should I continue scrap off the previous corner mud (as seen in photo)? Then paint it with Gardz. Then hot mud or tape next. Is this the right way to do it?

No one explained to me with how to paint to match with existing sand ceiling. My BIL has paint hopper, so should I use that with (which one below)...? Are those primer also?

Of course, after all, I will paint the whole kitchen ceiling (BEHR) as well walls. The new cabinets should arrive soon.









or


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

You only need Gardz if/where the drywall face paper is missing or torn. 
A little hard to tell from the pic but if it is a sand finish that is often done by mixing the 'sand' additive into the paint. I've never used the sand texture paint but it should do the same thing. It would be rolled as it might not spray thru most airless pumps. If it's an orange peel texture - that is done by spraying on the texture with a hopper gun.


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