# laying stamped concrete over old tile



## joasis (May 28, 2006)

More information needed, but basically, this is not a good idea. The correct action would be to remove the old tiles, and grind the concrete, then possibly acid stain, use a template and stain, or other options. Do a search on acid stained concrete floors and see what you find.


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## Kimmarie (Nov 12, 2007)

Thank you for your response - I was hoping to take care of my problem with an easier solution!


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

Removing the old tile isn't as big a deal as you might think....but yes, it is work. What you can do after it is gone will be determined by the condition of the concrete under the tile. You can rent a small grinder that will leave a nice finish, after you have all the thinset or mortar removed...then, no problem. 

One trick with existing concrete, is to use a small tile saw, the hand held type with the 4 inch blade, and cut line in the floor, an 1/8 inch deep...just a scar line. Then you can acid stain these lines with a dark color, like walnut, and then the floor in a mocha, and presto, it will look like a perfect tile job. The possibilities with acid stain and concrete are endless.


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## Joanne_08 (Mar 9, 2008)

*Stained concrete over tiled floors*

I have a lot of square feet of tile and don't want to have to remove it all. Can I put stained concrete floors on top of the tile? It has been in this house for 20 years. Thanks, Joanne


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,....

Joanne,... The answer is the same as it was 5 months ago,.....



> More information needed, but basically, this is not a good idea.


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## DepotDweller (Dec 20, 2007)

I was told when we got some wilsonart laminate flooring put down in our front room that should we ever want to, we could lay the stuff directly over our tile floors. If that's true, why not do that? We have the interlocking panels. We didn't do it, so can't tell you how it works, but just thought I'd throw that atcha.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Hdepot dweller -

Your are confusing a concrete overlay witha something over afloating laminate floor.

A laminate floor is temporary and not permanent, so why put a permanent surface over it?


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## DepotDweller (Dec 20, 2007)

concretemasonry said:


> Hdepot dweller -
> 
> Your are confusing a concrete overlay witha something over afloating laminate floor.
> 
> A laminate floor is temporary and not permanent, so why put a permanent surface over it?


 
nooooooooooo, she wants to cover her existing tile so she doesn't have to remove it. I suggested she put the laminate flooring over the existing permanent tile. didn't i ? :laughing: 

maybe what was confusing is the front room is laminate flooring and the rest of the house is tiled.


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## blanca (Aug 16, 2008)

*Concreto on top of tile*

Tell me what did you do about the tile? Did you put the stain concrete over? I'm in the same situation.
Let me know, please
Thanks


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

Sometimes, I get the idea you DIY'ers don't take our advice seriously....so let's try this plainly. It is not acceptable to place concrete/cement/portland or any other mortar based thinset or floor leveler *over* tile/wood/laminate/linoleum/carpet or other floor covering. There are modified polymers and mastics that would, in theory, work for this, but why would you want to go to that expense? Sometimes, you have to expect that there will be some sweat in a project, and those of us who are pro's expect this, and know it has to be done correctly. Being a DIY'er should not mean cutting corners and knowingly doing slip shod work...do it right.


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## PrestonMagic (Feb 10, 2009)

*putting concrete over tile*

I'm am in a similar situation and have some ideas regarding the subject. My idea is to put the concrete over the existing tile and stain it, but it depends on how the tile was installed. It is possible to tile over existing tile if the tile is well secured to the concrete(no hollow spots, thick mortar bed, etc), in theory, this should work the same way. It is certainly a bad idea to put any static flooring over a moveable subfloor (tile over laminate wood, concrete over carpet, etc), with the exception of 2nd floor installations where the subfloor may possibly move. The subfloor moves and cracks as a whole, and properly installed ceramic tile is actually more durable than concrete itself. My worry with removing the old tile, if it is difficult to remove, is harming the original subfloor. And it may be that the condition of the original concrete will require additional work(buffing, sanding) to remove any other old covers(glue from laminate flooring, etc). Also, mortar will often stay on the floor in small bits, and the only way I have found to remove it is with an air hammer, which is easy to damage the original concrete with and time consuming. In theory, this should work as long as the new concrete will bond with the old tile, which may require sanding, shipping, or acid etching, and the subfloor (including the tile) is solid.

So, in my view, the way to go about this is to first check the tile for hollow spots by knocking on it. If there are hollow spots then it needs to come up for sure. The best way to do this is with a sledgehammer. Wear protection, chipped tile is sharp and will cut you. Don't forget ear and eye protection. Small shards of tile will sit in your ear and cut you up. Using an air hammer is another way but it is usually too rough and hard to control. It can also burn out your compressor. 

For putting concrete over the floor, first check the level of the floor and then apply the proper grade concrete over it. In this case, I would opt for the expensive kind, there are different kinds for sure.

Any additional ideas and thoughts regarding this would be appreciated.


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

Read post #11. We try to be polite, but what part of this isn't clear?


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## bwalley (Feb 10, 2009)

PrestonMagic said:


> I'm am in a similar situation and have some ideas regarding the subject. My idea is to put the concrete over the existing tile and stain it, but it depends on how the tile was installed. It is possible to tile over existing tile if the tile is well secured to the concrete(no hollow spots, thick mortar bed, etc), in theory, this should work the same way. It is certainly a bad idea to put any static flooring over a moveable subfloor (tile over laminate wood, concrete over carpet, etc), with the exception of 2nd floor installations where the subfloor may possibly move. The subfloor moves and cracks as a whole, and properly installed ceramic tile is actually more durable than concrete itself. My worry with removing the old tile, if it is difficult to remove, is harming the original subfloor. And it may be that the condition of the original concrete will require additional work(buffing, sanding) to remove any other old covers(glue from laminate flooring, etc). Also, mortar will often stay on the floor in small bits, and the only way I have found to remove it is with an air hammer, which is easy to damage the original concrete with and time consuming. In theory, this should work as long as the new concrete will bond with the old tile, which may require sanding, shipping, or acid etching, and the subfloor (including the tile) is solid.
> 
> So, in my view, the way to go about this is to first check the tile for hollow spots by knocking on it. If there are hollow spots then it needs to come up for sure. The best way to do this is with a sledgehammer. Wear protection, chipped tile is sharp and will cut you. Don't forget ear and eye protection. Small shards of tile will sit in your ear and cut you up. Using an air hammer is another way but it is usually too rough and hard to control. It can also burn out your compressor.
> 
> ...


I would just get some regular concrete and mix it up kind of soupy and pour it over the existing floor, this way it will self level.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Kimmarie: We work with the stamped concrete industry and do acid staining and overlays - both inside and out - but the one thing you need is a concrete base. Not a wood floor. Not a good tiled floor. Concrete. 

Look at it this way: take our advice and remove the tiles. Don't take the advice of making a soupy concrete mix. Do it right the first time.

Cut corners and you'll end up regretting it. Unless, of course, you can live with a crumbly, cracked floor that looks like hell. If that's your standard, then we can't help you.:no:


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## bwalley (Feb 10, 2009)

ccarlisle said:


> Kimmarie: We work with the stamped concrete industry and do acid staining and overlays - both inside and out - but the one thing you need is a concrete base. Not a wood floor. Not a good tiled floor. Concrete.
> 
> Look at it this way: take our advice and remove the tiles. Don't take the advice of making a soupy concrete mix. Do it right the first time.
> 
> Cut corners and you'll end up regretting it. Unless, of course, you can live with a crumbly, cracked floor that looks like hell. If that's your standard, then we can't help you.:no:


The soupy concrete was a joke, I figured since he was ignoring good advice, I would tell him what he wanted to hear.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

OK gotcha!:laughing:

You might think some DUYers would just take that advice and get a $10 bag of cement and get to it.
:jester:


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Kimmarie:

You may be able to get away with a ceramic tile floor using a product called DITRA...a few condition have to be met but it is possible to put ceramic on top of vinyl tile without having to take up the vinyl.

But I still think stamped concrete is out.


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## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

we usually remove tile 1st but, on occasion, have placed conc over existing tile,,, it can be done but probably not by the avg or, even, above avg diy-er.

the progression of work's as follows: clean existing tile, apply epoxy coat, fill epoxy to rejection w/aggregate, place conc.

don't get excited 'cause there are several items/materials/methods i haven't listed & you won't even know the definitions we use in the trade,,, this is pro work.


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## Vegemite (Mar 22, 2008)

Nice to see another Blue Bleeder on the forum. Judging by your font and typing style I am gonna guess you are the

talks-on-multiple-forums-yik-yak? LOL


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Well, we use a number of tools to remove tile depending on the size mostly; we use long hand scrapers with a blade on the end about a foot wide for small things and an electric hammer saw for things like shower pans.

Failing that, a hammer, cold chisels and eyeglasses will get you pretty far.


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## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

veggie, that's MR. YIC-YAC to vous :laughing: at least get my name right - scheeesscchhhhhhhhhhhh ! ! !

to the others, if you've the diy-er's copious free time, carpenter's 16oz/mason's 2# hammer works well w/brick chisel,,, if you're a pro, bosch chipping gun & 6" chisel's the best bet.


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

Wow. What a thread.
At least I am happy if someone did not take the advice of a pro, they wouldn't get harmed. They would just be out time and lots of money.
Tile over tile is also a risk. Maybe it's considered acceptable, but sometimes even though there is no hollow spots right now, the tiles can later lift up due to thinset "pulling" some of the old tiles as the Mortar cures.


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## john5mt (Feb 9, 2009)

Any of you in Montana (preferably in the greater helena area) go ahead and give it a try. It should work since it is so dry here. Just in case it doesnt work out for ya shoot me a PM and i'll fix it for you for a good price :laughing::laughing:


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## andreahammett (Mar 20, 2012)

Joasis (or any other professional), 

I have a question for you. I have this baby blue tile floor with large grout in my kitchen. I have scrubbed and "resealed" (product I bought at home depot) and it is really dirty again. I don't mind doing the work but I would love something that will actually last more than a couple of months. We are looking to do an addition with kitchen remodel in a couple of years, so I don't want to do anything too drastic or expensive that will be removed with the remodel. Any suggestions? I had thought about self-levelling concrete or some type of other cheap solution but after reading your comments I don't want to do something that will fail or that will cost me a ton of cash!

Thanks


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