# drylocking basement and removing mold on concrete



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

If all of those 12 people said they could apply Dry loc over paint, then you need to keep looking for somebody that knows what they are doing


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## Marqed97 (Mar 19, 2011)

As a guy who spent all of last October grinding several layers of old paint and drylock off of my basement's block walls, I can tell you that drylock doesn't work over anything other than well prepared bare block. The outer 2 layers of drylock came off the easiest. Fell off, almost. Took a long time and a lot of effort.


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## paintdrying (Jul 13, 2012)

Paneling never fells. You should scrub, grind and treat those walls, then at least one coat of oil based primer, Zinsser makes one called cover stain. Then paint. Replacing those windows with some glass block is a big selling point. Make sure to clean your gutters and make sure your downspouts are flowing.


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## airtas (May 19, 2013)

mj12 said:


> Paneling never fells. You should scrub, grind and treat those walls, then at least one coat of oil based primer, Zinsser makes one called cover stain. Then paint. Replacing those windows with some glass block is a big selling point. Make sure to clean your gutters and make sure your downspouts are flowing.


What do you recommend for scrubbing the walls?


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

You have a mixture of efflorescence, dirt and mold. Actually the mold is pretty minor and given that it is living on accumulated dirt on the masonry, I would attack it with a detergent and a stiff scrub brush. Solve the moisture issue first, then scrub it down. That should be all that you need in this case. Mold won't live on masonry unless accumulated organic dirt is present. I would not worry too much about a fungicide in this instance. The efflorescence will be more stubborn to remove. You may need to scrape it and use a wire brush to remove it. I've even used a cup brush on an angle grinder in some cases. Wear a respirator.


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## leenamark1 (Jan 27, 2013)

Bleach is a well-known killer of mold and bacteria. Use a scrub brush or sponge dip it in the bleach solution. Scrub the mold with the solution until it is gone. Dry that area completely.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

leenamark1 said:


> Bleach is a well-known killer of mold and bacteria. Use a scrub brush or sponge dip it in the bleach solution. Scrub the mold with the solution until it is gone. Dry that area completely.


 
FYI
http://www.spore-tech.com/viewcategory.asp?idcategory=78

in this instance it MIGHT work


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

While sodium hypochlorite (bleach) will kill mold, it is not a particularly good cleaner. What the OP really needs to do first is scrub with a detergent. Add a little bleach to the detergent mix is you wish, just do not exceed 10% and work in good ventilation. And if you choose to use any bleach, be absolutely certain that the detergent you use does not include ammonia. When the accumulated surface organic material (dust and debris) is removed, there will be nothing to support mold growth. Mold doesn't grow on clean masonry (no organic food and the PH is way off). Suggest you read the info in this link.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-control-mold-part-1-a-178671/


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Me? I'd use a pool brush and a solution of Dawn dish soap and bleach. Rinse with a garden hose. Once dry two coats or acrylic latex high gloss paint.


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## paintdrying (Jul 13, 2012)

They make this special stuff to treat effervesce. Any good paint store will have it. Otherwise just follow what mat6 is telling you. Make sure to use an oil based primer or it will not cover.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

The basement is a sign of poor construction and exterior/subsurface water control. - That is why there is mold and efflorescence that will eventually return.

If you are fast, make it look good and run as fast as you can. New solutions to existing problems are usually spotted very easily if the buyer has a good home pre-purchase inspection.

Dick


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## airtas (May 19, 2013)

We drilled some weeping holes into the concrete and it was full of water.

What would happen if you painted over everything without scrubbing?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

I would do this one strip that paint! second use something better then drylock I would use something like laticrete hydroban water does not get through that. and then you can paint over it tile over it. yes it may be hard work but it will be done right.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Nailbags said:


> I would do this one strip that paint! second use something better then drylock I would use something like laticrete hydroban water does not get through that. and then you can paint over it tile over it. yes it may be hard work but it will be done right.[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> even after this???
> ...


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

you ever use hydro ban? no water gets through it! ever life time warranty check em out they water proof all forms of masonry and dry wall.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Until the water intrusion issues are dealt with on the “outside” any efforts on the inside is just putting lipstick on a pig and solves nothing imo.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

With that much water there you won't get long term relief with any wall treatment. If the source can't be arrested from the outside then a permanent drainage system on the inside that is tended by a floor drain or sump pump will be the only way to keep the walls from being saturated all the time.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

a few things you can do to dry it out. 1 french drain the out side! 2 if that can't be done there is another way to do it. do a inside french drain take a cement saw cut a 16 inch wide strip out might have to jack hammer it out in the floor dig a pit for a sump pump build your french tile drain along that wall going in to the sump re cover it up with cement and that will fix it those are your best solutions to your water problem.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

airtas said:


> We drilled some weeping holes into the concrete and it was full of water.
> 
> What would happen if you painted over everything without scrubbing?


You'll likely get a letter from the attorney of the folks you sold the house to, claiming that you purposely disguised know defects with the foundation and they were discovered when all the paint started peeling off again. Guess how I know?? 

If the walls have water in them above the basement floor level, you're going to need interior drainage (toe-board) work done in the basement. Once the water gets inside the wall cavity, it will either need to drain freely to a crock or other planned exit, or it will build up and eventually leak out of the front. I don't care what kind of product you coat the inside with, it can be the world's strongest epoxy, it will still be attached to concrete block that are slowly "rotting" away and it will fail.........


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