# Best concrete wall sealant?



## chemteacher03 (Feb 9, 2014)

Has anyone used Super Thoroseal or Radonseal Plus for their poured concrete walls in their basement? I'm also planning on using Epoxy-coat for the floor. Would these products work to create a dry semi-finished basement?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Water proofing should be done on the outside of the walls.
There is no way to water proof the floor.
Do you have any drain tiles under the floor?
Is there a sump pump?
Is there gutters, outside grade running away from the foundation?
No mulch or flower beds forming ponds?


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## chemteacher03 (Feb 9, 2014)

joecaption said:


> Water proofing should be done on the outside of the walls.
> There is no way to water proof the floor.
> Do you have any drain tiles under the floor? Yes
> Is there a sump pump? Yes
> ...


I am just trying to make sure the basement remains dry. So put nothing on the walls?


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## eharri3 (Jul 31, 2013)

chemteacher03 said:


> I am just trying to make sure the basement remains dry. So put nothing on the walls?


He is saying check everything else he said first. In most cases if that is all in order you should be good. If you still have water issues you either need to excavate and seal outside or else look at more drainage options.

In my opinion if water ever really does become a problem you're better off letting it all the way in than trapping it inside the wall with an inside wall-coating so the freeze/thaw cycles can compound the damage. Regardless, the masonry coatings will flake right off if there is serious water seepage.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

I agree with waterproofing from the outside, but in my case, there was no way I could deal with the expense.

So I did use RadonSeal 2-3 coats then used DryLok Extreme 2-3 coats. I have pics of this on my basement remodel link in the signature, page 5

Good luck


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

RadonSeal & DryLok Extreme :furious: no wonder i have trouble makin' my boat pymts - all the diy'ers think apron/vest store stuff really works :laughing: here's an idea - IF those products were really effective on the inside, what about all the water that penetrates the wall to the point of meeting the applied coating ?

' pay us now OR pay us more later ! ' ( forget who said that but his boat was bigger than mine :wink: )


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## chemteacher03 (Feb 9, 2014)

And that is why I was wondering about the sealer in the first place. I heard that it is best not to paint/seal the walls because it will trap the water inside the concrete and have nowhere to go causing more damage within the wall.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

soil acids attack conc's lime & will eventually cause degradation of conc however damage is not immediately severe,,, i run a dehumidifier


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## chemteacher03 (Feb 9, 2014)

I run a dehumifier now as well. It collects 1 full bucket in 2 days during a hard few days of rain. I have a sump pump, french drain, drain tiles around the entire wall, good grading, and downspouts directed far away from the foundation. I just wanted to make the basement appear more "finished" yet not have to frame it and put up drywall.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Dry Lok needed to be applied to the bare concrete to work.
Read the can.


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## chemteacher03 (Feb 9, 2014)

So Joecaption, should I or shouldn't I Drylok the exterior walls of my poured concrete basement?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

forget that stuff & use thoroseal, xypex, or kryton instead,,, no, you won't find them @ the apron/vest stores,,, ' dry*** ' is for ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, [ better not say ],,, suffice - i'm not a fan :furious:


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## eharri3 (Jul 31, 2013)

You will need something heavier than dry lock for that job.


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## chemteacher03 (Feb 9, 2014)

I was thinking thoro-seal would be the best option.


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