# Washer Dryer size constraints



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I have a laundry room that 31 3/4 inches from the back wall to the door. The vent sticks out about about 1.5 inches. 

I would like to get a front loading washer and dryer (separate units). But finding the space I have is limiting to purchase some of the newer styles.

The dryer vent seems like it will be the biggest problem. The diameter is 4 inches. I think I saw a vent that molds close to the wall so the minimum distance that is uses up might be just over 4 inches. If I assume 4.5 inches, that leaves 27 1/4 inches. 

So a 27 inch depth dryer would possibly fit. Does that sounds about right?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You might find some suitable units at a HIGH END Motor Home, Travel Trailer supply store.

They seem to have compact appliances.

Of course the load capacity will be small, but it still beats a laundromat.


ED


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> I have a laundry room that 31 3/4 inches from the back wall to the door. The vent sticks out about about 1.5 inches.
> 
> I would like to get a front loading washer and dryer (separate units). But finding the space I have is limiting to purchase some of the newer styles.
> 
> ...


Would something like this help?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dundas-Jafine-Recessed-Dryer-Vent-Box-DRB4XZW/202449693

It seems to me the room is large enough to slide the machines away from the door so the door can swing. If the unit is out a little it shouldn't matter. Yes?

Heck, you could get a large stackable set. Place them in the middle of the room and have counter top or cabinets on either side.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Assuming the dryer exhaust is at or near the bottom of the machine, you will only need a short piece of piping to align it with the vent. Something like this . . . 










might not collapse down small enough but you might be able to get a HVAC shop to custom-make something for you.

Either way, you're going to loose 5"-6" for venting and gas piping that you will have to take into account when you are scoping out appliances.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I like that dryer vent pipe design. I'll check online if I can find one. Seems very streamlined. I was planning on getting an electric dryer. I was worried about connecting to a gas line. Is there really that much savings?


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

It's gonna be tight but it will work. Keep in mind with a front loader your dryer is going to be on the right side. Washer on your left. That may work in your favor as you will have more length to work your 90's out.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I didn't know the dryer is on the right side. That helps with the dryer depth. But now the constraint is on the washer. Sounds like 27 inch is the max depth.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I looked online for a washer dryer with a 27 inch depth and couldn't find a front loading model. I noticed the vent is on the left and the water drain is on the right. It also looks like the gas line prevents switching the position.


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Drains and hoses are generally long enough on washer to reach but you have to add longer dryer vent and gas line if you have one


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Dryers are customarily on the right of the washer. Customarily, but not necessarily. The reason is most people are right handed.
The first question is "Where is the washer drain pipe?"

If the plumbing for the washer is on the right, I would first check to insure that the vent for the new dryer is in the center of the rear. If it is I would cut out the dry wall between the studs that the dryer vent is in. Cut out drywall to some level below the top of the dryer. Put an elbow on the dryer and connect to the vent with flexible congregated vent pipe. You should then be able to push the dryer up against the wall. 
It looks like you have an outlet for a electric dryer. Don't know what the piping is for unless it is gas pipe. 
The electric plug for the dryer also takes up space. After cutting out the drywall for the vent pipe, I would move the receptacle around to the side of the stud.

The door opens into the laundry room. You could consider reversing it and making it open out.

Most dryers vent out the rear but most can be converted to vent out the side. However, I don't think that will help you unless you are willing to completely redo the venting.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

It's not uncommon (up here anyway) for builders to install infrastructure for both gas and electric dryers, or it was a conversion by a previous owner. Our current house is my first experience with a gas dryer (came with the house)and I quite like it, if for no other reason than we have stooopid high electricity rates in this province. I don't know what the research says on cost efficiency or the comparative purchase prices.

If our washer or dryer crapped out, I doubt I would go with the high-efficiency front loading sets. For 2 people who usually do our laundry in cold water, I find the new machines over-sized, over-priced and over-teched. It's laundry after all, not rocket surgery.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Well if Ontario is "up here" I guess California is "over there" or maybe it is just the "Land of OZ".
"Down here", below the Mason Dixon line, we often just hang clothes outside on a line. Birds got to have something to crap on. Sometimes that line is a clothes line between two trees. Sometimes its the neighbors fence line. Then sometimes its just the fence of the hog pen.

If you hang them on a barbed wire fence you don't have to use clothes pens.


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## DanS26 (Oct 25, 2012)

How high is the ceiling......look at stack-able units...they are made for compact places.

Depending on location you could turn the units 45 deg....plenty of room then to attach vent pipe.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

I would turn them 45 degrees and stack them. I built a shelf for my (full sized) dryer and stacked it over my washer. It works well.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Great ideas about stacking the units. I didn't think that moving the stack to the other door might be a good idea. If I move them to the other side, it looks like I gain two more inches. That puts the depth to 39 inches. Still short of most of the newer style front load washers. 

I took some photos of the room. I see the drain on the right side, and the vent pipe on the left side. There are two metal plugs that protrude from the wall, and I guess those are the gas lines? Or maybe the one of the left is the gas line. Not sure what the larger one on the right is.

The cabinets are a bit dated, so I was going to paint them. If I stack, then I probably have to take them out.


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## DanS26 (Oct 25, 2012)

Another idea is to build a false floor and make it work somehow.


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> Great ideas about stacking the units. I didn't think that moving the stack to the other door might be a good idea. If I move them to the other side, it looks like I gain two more inches. That puts the depth to 39 inches. Still short of most of the newer style front load washers.
> 
> I took some photos of the room. I see the drain on the right side, and the vent pipe on the left side. There are two metal plugs that protrude from the wall, and I guess those are the gas lines? Or maybe the one of the left is the gas line. Not sure what the larger one on the right is.
> 
> The cabinets are a bit dated, so I was going to paint them. If I stack, then I probably have to take them out.



The pipe on the right appears, from here at least, to be a trap adapter for a sink. Though it seems a bit low. Probably placed there by the builder so the owner could opt for a utility sink.

I would make a cardboard cut out of the dimensions of the units you desire and place them as centered in the room as possible to see if the door swings past. You might get lucky and the doors might clear.

If not, just stack them. I have a large stackable set in a tiny room that also has a furnace and ironing board and shelf. I would kill for as much room as you have.

You might be able to re-use the wall cabinets and re-hang some down low at counter height and have floating cabinets with a 14 or 15 inch depth countertop. 

Though it might just be more practical to get a couple cheap knock down/assemble base cabinets for either side of the stack. Maybe install out from the wall 6 inches to allow the vents and lines to connect. Make or have made a deeper countertop. You could have a granite remnant made for cheap.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Thanks for the help on the trap adapter. I wasn't sure what that was.

I couldn't find a photo of a stackable in the middle of the small room so not sure what that would look like. Entering from the garage, it might look strange if it extends into the walking path. Maybe a bit dangerous, since it might cause a trip possibility. 

The attached photo isn't bad. I would probably just put a shelf on the left side to fold clothes and store laundry detergent. The main problem is the right side is limited to about 30 3/4 inch depth, given that the trap adapter might get in the way. I need to measure how far that is from the right side.

I didn't see an angled version of a stackable, but doesn't seem it would save any space and would probably cause a trip hazard.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Erico said:


> I would make a cardboard cut out of the dimensions of the units you desire and place them as centered in the room as possible to see if the door swings past. You might get lucky and the doors might clear.


I didn't understand this comment initially, and couldn't figure out how putting it in the center of the room would help (I wouldn't be able to walk past them). But then I saw photos of someone that used the dryer periscope and then I understood the idea (see attached photos). It looks like the washer/dryer extends pretty far past the doorway, so there is hope for me.

Great idea. Hopefully the room was designed with that idea in mind to accommodate larger appliances. 

I am hoping this works. It would be a big relief. I'll post photos later.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I took the cap of the sink drain area and noticed a black plastic item embedded in it. It looks like it was melted in some areas, maybe to hold it in place.

I was curious if the pipe comes apart into two pieces. It looks like the outside part will screw off if the paint wasn't holding it in. And then I was curious if the inner sleeve screws off. This would save some space for the washer or dryer.

I used an adjustable wrench and tried to screw off the outside part but it wouldn't budge. I didn't want to break it since it is plastic.


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> I took the cap of the sink drain area and noticed a black plastic item embedded in it. It looks like it was melted in some areas, maybe to hold it in place.
> 
> I was curious if the pipe comes apart into two pieces. It looks like the outside part will screw off if the paint wasn't holding it in. And then I was curious if the inner sleeve screws off. This would save some space for the washer or dryer.
> 
> I used an adjustable wrench and tried to screw off the outside part but it wouldn't budge. I didn't want to break it since it is plastic.


It's most likely glued and won't screw off.

What's in the pipe? Is it plugged with something? Or am I seeing white pvc pipe inside making it look plugged?


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

The plastic embedded in it is actually white, not black (my mistake). I attached a few more photos. Some parts of the circular area looks like it was melted, maybe with a match to seal it. I would think it would come apart if a sink was to be added. Just not sure if I should use a heat gun, or scrap more paint off. I scraped a fair amount of paint around the outside thread area. Need to pick up a pipe wrench maybe to see if it will budge. 

Not sure if I have to remove it, but probably need to put the cap back on. I would rather leave the cap off since it saves about an inch.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

That is a glued in adapter.

Do not try to unscrew it, you will break it.

There are plugs made for these that go completely inside, similar to a bung in an oil drum. 

You might have to search at a real plumbing parts shop, but you will find a recessed plug somewhere.


And DO PLUG it, otherwise you are letting sewer gasses into your living space,

ED


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I had trouble measuring the cap. I looked online and they had 2, 2.5 and 3 inch drain plugs. Wasn't sure if I measure the cap or the opening to get the right size. 

Another issue is the gas line. I think I need to add a on/off valve similar to the photo I attached. I think if I turn off the main gas line to attach it, that would affect the gas stove, gas water heater, and gas furnace. Do any of these have a pilot light that I have to reignite. The furnace is from 9/95, water heater 3/2008, and the stove is probably less then ten years old.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Take that plug to the plumbing fittings aisle, and find a bin that has T's or something that it screws into. There you have the size that you need to find a recessed cap .

Do you have the owners manuals to the appliances, Your answer is in there.

ED


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> I had trouble measuring the cap. I looked online and they had 2, 2.5 and 3 inch drain plugs. Wasn't sure if I measure the cap or the opening to get the right size.
> 
> Another issue is the gas line. I think I need to add a on/off valve similar to the photo I attached. I think if I turn off the main gas line to attach it, that would affect the gas stove, gas water heater, and gas furnace. Do any of these have a pilot light that I have to reignite. The furnace is from 9/95, water heater 3/2008, and the stove is probably less then ten years old.


The water heater will have pilot lighting instructions down low near the temperature control knob if it has a pilot. You'll need these instructions anyway. It might need to be manually lit or there may be a sparking device.

The stove probably makes a clicking sparking noise when lighting the burners if it is electric. It most likely is. Double check by removing grates and lifting the stove top. If pilot lite you may need to light broiler/oven

The furnace is a little trickier. Turn your heat up to kick the furnace on then go to the unit to see if you can view the glow plug turn red hot prior to ignition. Glow plug means no pilot. I can see my glow plug through the venting on top of the furnace. If this scheme doesn't work, or in doubt, get the model and serial number off the furnace and look it up on the internets. 

Out of all three, the most likely to have a pilot is the water heater. Having a long butane lighter for grills etc. comes in really handy


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## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

I would just move the door over as far as necessary, if at all possible....


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

You may want to rethink whether the new front loaders are really suitable for that location.

I'm not certain, but I think most all front load washers open from right to left... meaning that to move clothes easily from the washer to the dryer, you would like your washer on the left. To the best of my knowledge, which is very limited, I don't think any washer doors are reversable because of the seal.

Also, the bending over to dig clothes out of the washer can be a PIB (pain in back). That's why quite a few people raise the washer/dryer up on stands. That may be a consideration.

Many of the front load washers advise to leave their door open after use (mold issues). Will that affect your trafic pattern.

And with doors that swing open, you may want to consider how that door is used... is it to the garage, or a place likely someone will come thru and into a open washer/dryer door.

These may or may not be an inconvenience for you and any family involved in laundry.

Just some considerations...

Good luck


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I purchased the front loaders and it will be installed by a third party. One issue is the gas line. I think I need an on/off valve right in the laundry room. I live in California so not sure if that is a requirement. I saw several photos with the valve in the laundry room.


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> I purchased the front loaders and it will be installed by a third party. One issue is the gas line. I think I need an on/off valve right in the laundry room. I live in California so not sure if that is a requirement. I saw several photos with the valve in the laundry room.


Yeah. You need a shut off valve at the wall. I think that's a requirement everywhere.

When you say third party, do you mean the appliance dealer? Big box store?

If so, they won't do anything but the most basic hook up so you should have the valve installed prior to delivery. They won't fuss with shutting house gas off. You need a valve


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

OK. I will stop by the big box store and pick up a shut off valve. I think I just shut off the gas, unscrew the cap and screw on the shut off valve. It seems straightforward. I probably have to use some special tape on the threads.

I think a 90 degree turn, up vertically, in the gas pipe before the valve will provide the most flexibility. 

I have the local gas company coming by and they will turn the gas back on and check for leaks.

I have the appliance dealer doing the install of the washer and dryer.


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> OK. I will stop by the big box store and pick up a shut off valve. I think I just shut off the gas, unscrew the cap and screw on the shut off valve. It seems straightforward. I probably have to use some special tape on the threads.
> 
> I think a 90 degree turn, up vertically, in the gas pipe before the valve will provide the most flexibility.
> 
> ...


Use black pipe. Gas rated ball valve.

I like to use the blue paste. I think it's called Blue Monster. Yellow gas tape works too. Or both.

I buy the blue test liquid. It looks like dish soap.

A 90 degree up will keep you closer to the wall. You will need a short "close" nipple -- or use a "street 90" to attach directly to the 90.

When unscrewing the cap, you need to apply counter pressure on the pipe so you don't loosen the joint behind the wall. You need two pipe wrenches.

Watch how the gas man turns off the gas. You should know how to do that anyway in case of emergency. It should just be a quarter turn at the meter.

One thing you should look at, and the gas company may check this out prior to turning gas on, is the required combustion air for your gas burning appliance. The room may or may not be large enough to not need a make up source. You should look at the specs on your new appliance for guidance.

Sometimes you might be required to let fresh air in to the room. Some people install vents through doors. I prefer to cut drywall between studs and install a vent cover (.like a cold air return grill). Looks better than chopping a hole in a door.

We just had some work done on our building's main manifold. Before turning the gas back on they wanted to inspect the stoves for pilot lights and utility rooms for make up combustion air. They almost didn't want to turn the gas on because they didn't see the make up air pipe behind the furnaces.

We have small utility closets with both a furnace and gas dryer. So the make up source is more of an issue.

It is kind of a funny story. We had just had our storage rooms spray foam insulated. The basement neighbor smelled gas in the storage room so they called the gas emergency number. I guess that's the smart thing to do but I figured the leak was probably really minor and we just never noticed it because the room was unsealed. Better safe than sorry. But..... I told my neighbor you might have just got all of our gas shut off for the night (it was Sunday evening) or until we can get a plumber out Monday, or Tuesday? Or ???? Because if it isn't a leak on our side, they lock the gas off and tell us to get a plumber. Turns out the leak was on the gas company's side - so they slapped some Billy Mays looking putty on the leak and said they would be back to fix it in a month.

I asked the guy if the leak was on our side we would be cold tonight but you just putty it if it is on your side ? He laughed and said yeah pretty much.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

How come black pipe? I would think any gas valve will do. I need a 3/4 inch version. I will probably just buy one that is short and just extend straight instead of the 90 degrees. The existing pipe seems short.

I know how to shut off the main gas. The gas guy will come to turn it back on and check the gas appliances. It's a nice service the local gas company provides.


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

greentrees said:


> How come black pipe? I would think any gas valve will do. I need a 3/4 inch version. I will probably just buy one that is short and just extend straight instead of the 90 degrees. The existing pipe seems short.
> 
> I know how to shut off the main gas. The gas guy will come to turn it back on and check the gas appliances. It's a nice service the local gas company provides.


The gas fittings and pipe are black. Not galvanized. Galvanized can flake and rust.

I usually buy a couple fittings/options. The stuff is dirt cheap. Although the "street" fittings are a couple bucks more.

The valve will be brass. Pretty much everything you see at big box will be gas rated. Just look at the tag to verify. Use quarter turn ball valve - I think they all are.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Somehow got the washer and dryer to fit. I had the person dropping off the dryer inform me that the dryer should go on the right if you want the doors to open correctly (since the washer opens to the left, and the dryer to the right). I had a four foot flex gas line for the dryer, but he said I would need something like 6 feet or more. 

The longest I could find is 5 feet, so the guy at the big box store showed me a few adapters that might help. I bought a 90 degree adapter, and a pipe that was about a foot long. 

After installing the pipe, the 5 foot hose was long enough. Whew. 

So far so good. The washer and dryer are working, and I am able to keep the washer door open (leans against the door) so it can air out and dry (heard that mold is a problem with these front loading machines. 

I bought the LG brand because they were not as deep as the Samsung, which would not have fit. Thanks for all the help on this. 

Now I just need to install a shelf so stuff doesn't go behind the washer and dryer. I am thinking of a bracket that I can screw into the studs that has a wide enough depth, so I can just sit the shelf on it, and maybe just a screw or two to hold it in, just in case I need to get to the back of the washer or dryer. I might submit another post for that if I run into trouble.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Thank you for the follow up on this.

Yes you need a shelf over the space behind the appliances, Your arm is not long enough to reach whatever will fall in there.

I know because my arms are not long enough to get behind mine, and when something falls in there I have to pull them out to grab it if it is heavier than a few ounces, otherwise I use a tool called a mechanic's finger to retrieve the light stuff.

ED


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