# Septic Systems - How much can they handle?



## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Can a septic system handle a large family (5+ kids)? What would it require, a larger holding tank, larger leach field?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why do you ask?
It's done all the time.
Size of the system is determened by how many bed rooms.


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## NitrNate (May 27, 2010)

not sure about the leach field, but the tank should be about 250 gallons per person.


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

I have a "large" family; 2 adults, 5 kids. I have a 1500 gal tank w/ pump and four 90' leach lines. We are conservative with water use. So it's possible BUT I'd say it depends a lot on your soil. Do yourself a favor and get the upfront homework done right: pit tests, design, permit, and install. Read whatever you can and ask questions. Pay now or pay later. Better to do it now and do it right!


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

We're septic - large tank (maybe 2K gallons) and a wide leach field . . . short supply and perforated pipe . . . no issues.

It's more about routine maintenance, pumping - and avoiding flooding it with too much non-degradable elements like papertowels and fruit peels. For example: we don't have the dishwasher or washing machine plugged into the septic-tank line.

The only problem I had was when the 30 year old pvc supply septic line collapsed and backed up when I was remodeling the bathroom and had all the plumbing exposed - I had to dig out the tank lines and set all new ones and spent a few days cleaning sewer water out from the crawlspace.

So: I guess my point is don't leave any lines uncapped when working on plumbing


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

Snav-
1- the collapsed supply line- was that the line from the house to the tank or from the tank to the drain field?
2- you said don't leave lines uncapped. Can you be more specific?
3- probably a tangent, but Im curious about where you got information about the gray water system you have. this could really prevent overloading a septic
system for a large family! I haven't had much luck getting local help with gray water. 

Thanks!


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

So if I go with a 2,000 gallon tank, I would be OK with having a garbage disposal unit? 

How does one prevent septic back-ups coming inside of the home? Don't they make back-flow prevention valves like they do for city sewer hook-ups?


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

This really is not very complicated. You hire a professional designer who performs the required soil tests and groundwater tests. They design your system in accordance with state and local regulations. In my jurisdiction (MA), septic systems can be sized up to 10,000 gallons per day with special add ons, and are routinely sized up to 5,000 gallons per day as standard systems.

In most jurisdictions, designing and installing a septic system is not DIY, in fact in MA you need an engineer's license to design the system, and you have to be a licensed plumber to install. I don't know about your jurisdiction, in fact I am not sure you told us where you live, but the process may be similar.


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

joecaption said:


> Why do you ask?
> It's done all the time.
> Size of the system is determened by how many bed rooms.


I don't recall the exact criteria, but where I live the size is NOT determined by the number of bedrooms. In any case, your local Health Department will tell you what type and size of system to put in. The only option you'll have is to make it larger in case you plan to add a bathroom or something like that.


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

JackOfAllTrades said:


> So if I go with a 2,000 gallon tank, I would be OK with having a garbage disposal unit?
> 
> How does one prevent septic back-ups coming inside of the home? Don't they make back-flow prevention valves like they do for city sewer hook-ups?


My understanding is never use a garbage disposal. It is used for waste that won't easily decompose in the tank and possibly clog your leach lines. 
As for backups, my septic guy installed a pop up valve right outside the house. It was <$10 and is good insurance. Other than that, monitor and maintenance.


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

Scottphys said:


> Snav-
> 1- the collapsed supply line- was that the line from the house to the tank or from the tank to the drain field?
> 2- you said don't leave lines uncapped. Can you be more specific?
> 3- probably a tangent, but Im curious about where you got information about the gray water system you have. this could really prevent overloading a septic
> ...


The supply line (meaning - the house's septic line that carries to the tank) collapsed. This happens sometimes - whether you have septic or not. It was an old pvc 5" pipe. Back in the 70's they were made with a thinner wall - after 30 years it just failed.

Anytime you're doing plumbing I think it's wise to cap your ends with the removable rubber-fittings that clamp on *just incase* your system fails or has a backup while you're working - which isn't just related to septic systems but just sewer systems in general - they can clogg, collapse and back up.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

You can put anything you want down your septic system........ if you're willing to have it pumped out every year or so.  We have septic and do not use a garbage disposal under the sink, unless a goat came in and got under there somehow. :laughing: Our laundry water goes to a separate location as well.

DM


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

DangerMouse said:


> We have septic and do not use a garbage disposal under the sink, unless a goat came in and got under there somehow.


I've seen that!
that pic is supposed to be a "Red Goat" disposer. www.redgoat.com


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

bad image


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

That is poor advice Danger. There is a long list of things that should never be put into a septic system, because they can damage the bacteria that make your system run, in some cases permanently, leading to premature failure of the system. Products that should NEVER be allowed to enter the septic system, REGARDLESS of how often you pump, include:

Strong acids (HCl, nitric acid, sulfuric acid) commonly found in industrial strength cleaning products

Strong bases (NaOH, KOH) commonly found in cleaning products

Toxic metals such as mercury commonly found in paint

Formaldehyde, oxalic acid, glue, inorganic floor cleaners, certain polishing products, rat poison and other rodenticides, ant killer

You get the picture, nothing toxic down the drain ever. As for organic material, if you don't mind pumping frequently (very expensive) you can use a garbage grinder and put organic stuff down the drain, but you would be far better to compost the organic material and use it in your garden. In my town, where we are all on septic and well water, the town prohibits installation and use of a garbage grinder, because it encourages disposal of all sorts of material that does not belong in a septic system, and leads to premature failure. We have no sewer system here, so failure of a septic system is a serious matter, and the town has taken steps to reduce the chance of failure.


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

Snav said:


> The supply line (meaning - the house's septic line that carries to the tank) collapsed. This happens sometimes - whether you have septic or not. It was an old pvc 5" pipe. Back in the 70's they were made with a thinner wall - after 30 years it just failed.
> 
> Anytime you're doing plumbing I think it's wise to cap your ends with the removable rubber-fittings that clamp on *just incase* your system fails or has a backup while you're working - which isn't just related to septic systems but just sewer systems in general - they can clogg, collapse and back up.


Thanks Snav!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Daniel Holzman said:


> That is poor advice Danger. There is a long list of things that should never be put into a septic system, because they can damage the bacteria that make your system run, in some cases permanently, leading to premature failure of the system. Products that should NEVER be allowed to enter the septic system, REGARDLESS of how often you pump, include:
> 
> Strong acids (HCl, nitric acid, sulfuric acid) commonly found in industrial strength cleaning products
> 
> ...


Okay, you got me, that was NOT advise to be taken seriously, but rather comically. Of course there are chemicals that could/would cause problems, however, if they were pumped out DAILY... NO PROBLEMS! :laughing:

NOW is it more of a joke? 

The ONLY things we put down the drains here are water, poop, pee and TP!.. period. Never had a problem.

DM


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

So NO garbage disposal but even when you wash dishes, there is always some food that ends up going down the drain. It's next to impossible to completely clear a plate 100% of its food content.

How much does it cost to pump a septic tank?

When you mentioned "failure", what does that mean? That the leach field stops working?

If you can't wash your toilet with bleach then how do you get it cleaned and disinfected?

Is it good to use that added septic bacteria to help dissolve the food/waste?


The more I read about it, septic systems can be a real problem.


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

I pump mine every 2 years (though what's suggested is every year - obviously I don't do that)

I clean my house with usual cleaners that get flushed (like bleach, vinegar, 409, barkeeper's friend).

Extreme toxins like muriatic acid and some things like latex paint (etc) I don't put down the drain - all these things are diluted outside with hose-water in the yard . . . so I've never had that enter the system. This isn't because I have a septic system - this is jus tbecause I prefer to keep my DIY filth outside of the house when I scrub my tools, etc.

Disposals: regardless of how fine the pieces are - many food items are not biodegradable and thus will float on the surface of the tank's water and the baffles may or may not prevent them from clogging the leach line.

"Failure" can mean lots of things: leach-line is what lets the water leave the tank and absorb into the ground. . . they can fail if they're clogged and back up the system because water isn't leaving hte tank. They can fail if they collapse or are installed incorrectly and water doesn't drain out.

"Failure" can also occur if the tank collapses (rare - but happens usually if people drive over top of it - something like that)

Septic-lines are just always an issue sewer or septic doesn't effect that - they can collapse, back up - etc etc etc - I still prefer my septic-tank because it saves me hundreds each year. For sewer service in the city we paid about $50.00 on each water bill - overa year that's $600.00. A pumping of my tank is about $200.00 - even if I did it every year it still doesn't cost me as much.

I've had serious issues with city-sewer, too - such as main pipe breaks and backups. The frustrating thing with that for me was that I couldn't just get up and fix it and be done wit hit - I had to wait for them to do what was necessary.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Pumping out a septic tank is a routine maintenance item. How often it needs to be done starts out as trial and error; the pumping company should be able to estimate when the next pump out should be done.

Septic system failure means that the leach field no longer absorbs liquid fast enough for the number of persons for which the system was designed. You may be able to get by temporarily with a time delay between showers or washing machine cycles. The tank rests at about 85% full. Normal operation has one gallon of liquid out to the leach field for every one gallon of sewage from the house The remaining empty space in the tank and the space within the pipes in the leach field allow a short term faster incoming flow from the house over short periods of time when the leach field can't absorb it that fast.


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

As mentioned; "failure" means a lot.

I'm fairly new to septic systems so that term scared me. To me it meant "that's it, you're screwed and get ready to shell out $$". As it turns out, that may not be the case. 

Things like seasonal water table changes, heavy rain, roots, etc can make a bad thing seem worse. 

Bottom line is that a "failure" could (I stress could) be mediated by timers, effluent pumps, adjusting your distribution manifold. I'm assuming there are other things like terralifting that could help too.

I don't want to sound like a company rep, but there are a LOT of easy to read documents at orenco.com that explain these things much better than I can.


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## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

*septic tank pump out*

i been my house for 22 yrs and have a 1200 gal tank and have never had it pumped out. I don't use anything down the drain to help the tank. I guess i mite be lucky It is only me. I recycle budwiser maybe that is the secret??


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

8 years here, 1,000 gallon, never pumped.

DM


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

use to the only time you needed to pump your septic tank was when it filled with too much sludge, that used to take up to 30 years for that to happen.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Snav said:


> I pump mine every 2 years (though what's suggested is every year - obviously I don't do that)
> 
> Septic-lines are just always an issue sewer or septic doesn't effect that - they can collapse, back up - etc etc etc - I still prefer my septic-tank because it saves me hundreds each year. For sewer service in the city we paid about $50.00 on each water bill - overa year that's $600.00. A pumping of my tank is about $200.00 - even if I did it every year it still doesn't cost me as much.
> 
> I've had serious issues with city-sewer, too - such as main pipe breaks and backups. The frustrating thing with that for me was that I couldn't just get up and fix it and be done wit hit - I had to wait for them to do what was necessary.



From what I am gathering, it is better to OVERBUILD the system than to underbuild it. A bigger tank, a larger leach field, etc. I would probably go with a 2,000+ gallon tank and a larger leach field. I read that one can install a valve which switches the leach field lines so that the other lines can "rest" every 3-6 months. 

If pumping costs $200, that is not that much money. Right now I am on a city line and I pay for water & sewer usage around $100 a month. If I move to the septic area, I would have well water, which is "free" except for the electricity to pump the well. So spending $200 a year to pump still beats out paying $1,200 a year for city sewer & water. 

For sure I would install the anti-drain back valve. Don't want raw sewage coming back into the home. Cheap insurance. Even city sewer hook-ups require that valve.


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

Hmm - now well water I would avoid (personally) - septic I can handle, well water I cannot so we're septic and city water . . . well "country town water" :laughing: not city.

Good point about the back-up valve. . . I've considered it and I just might do that.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

JackOfAllTrades said:


> For sure I would install the anti-drain back valve. Don't want raw sewage coming back into the home. Cheap insurance. Even city sewer hook-ups require that valve.


Please explain how this will help on a septic system. When the tank will no longer drain, it will push the valve shut. So in the mean time you continue to flush the toilets and run dishwashers, laundry etc. Wheres that water going to drain? Against a closed valve and right back into your house. Best to be proactive and service the tank on a regular basis.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Snav said:


> Hmm - now well water I would avoid (personally) - septic I can handle, well water I cannot so we're septic and city water . . . well "country town water" :laughing: not city.
> 
> Good point about the back-up valve. . . I've considered it and I just might do that.


No city water option in that area, just well. 

Even now where I live the "city water" is really just a well dug by the city. You pay for it though, $100 a month for city sewer & water.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

TheEplumber said:


> Please explain how this will help on a septic system. When the tank will no longer drain, it will push the valve shut. So in the mean time you continue to flush the toilets and run dishwashers, laundry etc. Wheres that water going to drain? Against a closed valve and right back into your house. Best to be proactive and service the tank on a regular basis.


The main reason for this valve would be to prevent water/sewage from entering the home, especially a basement, if the septic tank failed or was inundated by heavy rainfall. If the septic system developed a crack or if something was not closed properly, in a heavy rainstorm water can enter the tank and start to backup into the plumbing lines. 

Of course like you said, prevention and tank maintenance is the best answer. The valve is mainly used in city sewer hookups but has been used in septic systems also. 

It's basically a one way valve.


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## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

JackOfAllTrades said:


> From what I am gathering, it is better to OVERBUILD the system than to underbuild it. A bigger tank, a larger leach field, etc. I would probably go with a 2,000+ gallon tank and a larger leach field. I read that one can install a valve which switches the leach field lines so that the other lines can "rest" every 3-6 months.
> 
> If pumping costs $200, that is not that much money. Right now I am on a city line and I pay for water & sewer usage around $100 a month. If I move to the septic area, I would have well water, which is "free" except for the electricity to pump the well. So spending $200 a year to pump still beats out paying $1,200 a year for city sewer & water.
> 
> For sure I would install the anti-drain back valve. Don't want raw sewage coming back into the home. Cheap insurance. Even city sewer hook-ups require that valve.


I bet the city will not let you install a septic tank now ?? and well water. If they will that is the way to go but i bet they will not let you do it ? good luck


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

del schisler said:


> I bet the city will not let you install a septic tank now ?? and well water. If they will that is the way to go but i bet they will not let you do it ? good luck


In addition, in many cities, if/when sewer lines are laid in your street you are required to hook in at your expense and abandon your septic system after a short grace period.

After that time you could use the leach field for a sump pump although the leach field usually does not perform that role well.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

JackOfAllTrades said:


> The main reason for this valve would be to prevent water/sewage from entering the home, especially a basement, if the septic tank failed or was inundated by heavy rainfall. If the septic system developed a crack or if something was not closed properly, in a heavy rainstorm water can enter the tank and start to backup into the plumbing lines.
> 
> Of course like you said, prevention and tank maintenance is the best answer. The valve is mainly used in city sewer hookups but has been used in septic systems also.
> 
> It's basically a one way valve.


In the plumbing trade we call them back water valves. IMO its a waste of money to install them on a septic system and I wouldn't put one on a building drain connected to the city either, except if I had fixtures below the manhole rim.
Also, many of them do not close 100%


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## moneymgmt (Apr 30, 2007)

We're closing on a house next week with a 1500gal septic system. During the inspection I saw how full the tank was and clearly needed to be pumped. Owners showed a receipt that they had it done 10/2010, so either they got scammed or they beat their drains to heck.

Not enough to make me question the purchase, we'll just pay to have it pumped when we move in. Is there some type of bacteria additive that can be introduced to the system to ensure it is functioning as it should? 



Happy to get the heck out of the 'burbs finally and into the country!!!!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Septic tanks are always full

Sent from my DROID2 using DIY Chatroom


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

moneymgmt said:


> We're closing on a house next week with a 1500gal septic system. During the inspection I saw how full the tank was and clearly needed to be pumped. Owners showed a receipt that they had it done 10/2010, so either they got scammed or they beat their drains to heck.
> 
> Not enough to make me question the purchase, we'll just pay to have it pumped when we move in. Is there some type of bacteria additive that can be introduced to the system to ensure it is functioning as it should?
> 
> Happy to get the heck out of the 'burbs finally and into the country!!!!


You may have been seeing the scum layer that floats to the top- always there. Prob wouldn't hurt to have it pumped, cleaned, and inspected anyway. Have them look at the dbox and leach field while they're at it. 

Regarding the back flow preventer, I'm glad we have ours. It saved us TONS of headache and $ in the first week. When we bought our house, the power to the pump was intermittent and cut out. After one week of being in, we noticed the septic smell near the pop-up. The pump was never activated and the power to the alarm was off too! (thanks mr inspector!) If it wasn't for that valve, we would have been backed up. My septic guy was the hero of the day. Of course it's your call, but that $10 was easily the best $ spent for me!! I look at it often!

As for the bacteria additive, yes there are plenty. But it's a heated debate as to whether or not it's worth it. Some even think it can cause damage. I'll leave that one to someone with more years under their belt.


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## moneymgmt (Apr 30, 2007)

TheEplumber said:


> Septic tanks are always full


When the surface layer is so thick and dense it could not be penetrated with a spade it needs to be pumped.

Scott: thanks for the input on bacteria, haven't really looked into it. I'll do some searching in the forum and beyond.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Scottphys said:


> Regarding the back flow preventer, I'm glad we have ours. It saved us TONS of headache and $ in the first week. When we bought our house, the power to the pump was intermittent and cut out. After one week of being in, we noticed the septic smell near the pop-up. The pump was never activated and the power to the alarm was off too! (thanks mr inspector!) If it wasn't for that valve, we would have been backed up. My septic guy was the hero of the day. Of course it's your call, but that $10 was easily the best $ spent for me!! I look at it often!
> 
> As for the bacteria additive, yes there are plenty. But it's a heated debate as to whether or not it's worth it. Some even think it can cause damage. I'll leave that one to someone with more years under their belt.


It's cheap insurance to have it installed during the main septic install. It would cost 5 times more to install it later. 

As far as the bacteria, from everything I have studied it is not "needed" but can be very beneficial if the tank is overworked or the biological factor has been upset (bleach, acid, etc). The septic pumping companies will always bad mouth the stuff because it affects their business. 

Septic systems require colonies of bacteria to eat away at the waste. Adding more of these colonies can help eat away at the waste faster. They've done studies where they had identical tanks, in the one tank they added the beneficial bacteria, the other they did not. The tank with the beneficial bacteria saw a 50% decrease in sludge. The bacteria did its job and ate away at the sludge. 

In man-made ponds and lakes, they add a form of beneficial bacteria to the water to help these microbes and enzymes eat away at the sludge at the bottom of the lake/pond. I have 3,000 gallon Koi pond and use beneficial enzymes in it and it does make a big difference in water quality.

City sewer water treatment plants use the beneficial bacteria in their treatments. They have engineers and scientists that utilize the stuff. If a city sewer treatment plant uses the bacteria, it pretty much solves the debate as whether or not to use it. In a small home with low septic use, you probably don't need it. In a large home with large septic use, it would help out a lot.


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

Jackofalltrades- interesting point about city sewer companies. I hadn't thought of that before. Tnx!


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Scottphys said:


> Jackofalltrades- interesting point about city sewer companies. I hadn't thought of that before. Tnx!


Yep, they all utilize some form of additional bacteria/enzyme treatment. I know of a guy who works in such a city treatment plant and he said they have large barrels of this stuff and it's added to help with decomposition. 

I found this on the web:

http://www.microtack.com/html/natural_treatment05.htm

http://www.microtack.com/html/natural_treatment03.htm

So it settles it with me. I utilize bacteria in my Koi Pond and it works, the city treatment plants utilize bacteria in their treatment and it works, so adding it to the septic system will work also. I've even read where the treatments helped with pumping intervals. Instead of pumping the tank every 2 years, they pump it every 4 years. That is not good news for septic pumping companies, so they are the ones who really hate the stuff. Plus not all bacteria additives are made the same.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

After a septic tank is pumped, there are usually enough bacteria remaining behind to get the septic action restarted automatically (and also be hazardous to someone who climbed down inside to inspect more closely).

You cannot judge the contents of a septic tank during home inspection prior to purchase simply by lifting the lid. You have to poke around using a dipstick (or as mentioned earlier, a shovel).

Some species of bacterial need aeration to thrive. Some of the more esoteric septic systems required in some towns have such aeration, added electrical cost and added components that can wear out and break down.


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

Jackofalltrades- thank you for those links. I think you've made me a believer.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Scottphys said:


> Jackofalltrades- thank you for those links. I think you've made me a believer.


You're welcome. Like I said before, I don't think it is needed for normal usage households but for high use loads, it can't hurt to have more bacteria eating away the sludge.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Those with a large family, how many loads of laundry can you do daily with a septic system?


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

JackOfAllTrades said:


> Those with a large family, how many loads of laundry can you do daily with a septic system?


Family of 7: 5 kids, 2 adults. We do 1-3 loads per day. Washing machine is reg top-load with Filtrol 160 added.

Does that classify as heavy-load for septic????????


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Scottphys said:


> Family of 7: 5 kids, 2 adults. We do 1-3 loads per day. Washing machine is reg top-load with Filtrol 160 added.
> 
> Does that classify as heavy-load for septic????????


How big is your tank? Is it a conventional septic?


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

The tank is 1500 gal w 250 gal dosing tank. Dosing tank is pumped with easypak pump to 360' (4 laterals) of drain field.

So far, I've recorded 5-6 pump cycles per day at 46 gals per cycle. When the kids hit teen years, I'm gonna probably have to expand!


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Depending on the specifications and design of your system you may be able to get in more pump cycles over the course of the day, particularly in the wee hours. This might make it unnecessary to upgrade the system.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Scottphys said:


> The tank is 1500 gal w 250 gal dosing tank. Dosing tank is pumped with easypak pump to 360' (4 laterals) of drain field.
> 
> So far, I've recorded 5-6 pump cycles per day at 46 gals per cycle. When the kids hit teen years, I'm gonna probably have to expand!


The more I research, it is better to overbuild a system to compensate for the possible higher loads vs. underbuilding it and then having high usage problems.

I would go with a 2,000 tank minimum and even though my perc rate was .32, which passes for a conventional septic, I will go with an engineered system. While more expensive, the engineered system will treat the effluent a lot better than a conventional system would do. This protects the leach field from being filled with substances which will destroy the leach fields. 

I found this system which looks promising:

http://www.orenco.com/sales/choose_...atment_systems/AdvanTex_treatment_systems.cfm


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## Scottphys (Jun 3, 2011)

That advantex system looks Incredible. I was lucky enough to get a tour of a supplier about a month ago and see the system. They also had several jars of sample effluent from home and commercial systems on site ready for testing. The effluent is supposed to be clean enough for surface drainage- minimal turbidity and smell! The samples looked amazingly clear. 
The only downside is that it must be monitored by state law (understandable if you're going to drain it on the surface). But that's not a big problem if that's your only option. Orenco has done some incredible work.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

They work very well and worth the investment. Soon they will be the norm,


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Scottphys said:


> That advantex system looks Incredible. I was lucky enough to get a tour of a supplier about a month ago and see the system. They also had several jars of sample effluent from home and commercial systems on site ready for testing. The effluent is supposed to be clean enough for surface drainage- minimal turbidity and smell! The samples looked amazingly clear.
> The only downside is that it must be monitored by state law (understandable if you're going to drain it on the surface). But that's not a big problem if that's your only option. Orenco has done some incredible work.


From my research it is one of the best systems out there. It also uses the least amount of electricity out of any of the engineered aerobic systems. 

The key thing is that it treats the effluent *prior* to discharging it into the leach field. Leach fields fail because they get dirty effluent in the leach field lines, they then clog and fail, this system really cleans the effluent out prior to going into the leach field. 

Also, as mentioned already, the effluent coming out is "clean" enough to be used for landscape watering use. The system makes the effluent coming into and out of the leach field lines much cleaner, therefore it does not cause the same groundwater pollution issues that conventional systems can cause.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Javiles said:


> They work very well and worth the investment. Soon they will be the norm,


Also from what I read, I would go with the PUMP setup vs. the gravity setup. The pump system seems to be more efficient over the gravity system. Having the effluent pumped into the leach field works better than having it trickle in via gravity.


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## garys_2k (Mar 27, 2012)

Javiles said:


> They work very well and worth the investment. Soon they will be the norm,


Hi! I'm looking at buying a property where the engineer that designed the waste system specified an Advatex system for this site. Do you have any idea what cost range they go for?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Come on Gary, stop hijacking someones post and get some local prices.


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## garys_2k (Mar 27, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Come on Gary, stop hijacking someones post and get some local prices.


Sorry, no harm intended, the thread was 8 weeks old (from the previous last reply) and I thought it had run its course. :huh:

The reason I'm asking is just for a rough budget -- can I afford the house/property/improvements/etc, or not? Should I figure $20K, $40K or what? I can start a new thread and, in any case, I assure you that this is ONLY for a rough budget -- no way I'd confront a real installer (who sees the site, sees any issues, access, whatever, knows the size of the house) with a rough budget amount from an Internet forum. This would be for a very rough ballpark number, only as a guide to an appropriate range.

Again, no harm intended and I could put this in its own thread if that'd be better.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Still going to get the same ansewer. No one here has seen your site, going to know the local requirements, labor rates, material cost, soil conditions ECT.
Some people may jump in wth some really silly comments though.


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## garys_2k (Mar 27, 2012)

Well, if anyone had had one of these systems installed could tell me what it cost them, where little to no leach field is required and the bulk of the cost is the hardware, connection and burial of the integrated system, it would help.


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## dougp23 (Sep 20, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> Septic tanks are always full


Always amazes me that people think they pumped the septic tank last year, and it's ALREADY full. People, you'll fill that 1000 gal tank in a little more than a week of average use!



DangerMouse said:


> 8 years here, 1,000 gallon, never pumped.
> 
> DM





DannyT said:


> use to the only time you needed to pump your septic tank was when it filled with too much sludge, that used to take up to 30 years for that to happen.


Definitely two schools of thought regarding septic tanks! The first is "leave it alone", and the second is "regular maintenance". I have seen both produce great results, as have you two!!



garys_2k said:


> Well, if anyone had had one of these systems installed could tell me what it cost them, where little to no leach field is required and the bulk of the cost is the hardware, connection and burial of the integrated system, it would help.


The reason why no one will quote you any ideas is the cost of labor, materials, machinery and the transport thereof, along with a thousand other variables, vary too much from location to location. Your best bet is to call an engineer, or maybe your local building code or health inspector person.


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## garys_2k (Mar 27, 2012)

Thanks Doug and Joe, like I said I was just wondering if anyone had personal experience as a customer of one of these systems, not to get a quote or estimate for one I would need.

I did follow your advice and contacted Orenco who gave me the name and number of an installer local to me. I'll talk to them today to follow up on the next step. Thanks again.


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