# 1993 Comfortmaker RPG II Flame Sensor Not Working?



## Acomfort (Aug 7, 2012)

Flame sensors are pretty much universal, there are a handful of them that are used, any supplier should have the exact one or one that can be used in its place and most come with universal brackets


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Acomfort said:


> Flame sensors are pretty much universal, there are a handful of them that are used, any supplier should have the exact one or one that can be used in its place and most come with universal brackets



Do you think a new Flame Sensor will solve my problem?
I looked on Ebay and found a new one for only $8.00! that looked almost exactly like mine, (just the porcelain sleeve was not as long.)
Not sure about the metal rod length though. I'd love to just buy that and be done with it, but not sure if this would be compatible? I live rurally and would have to drive a bit to a supply house.


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## Acomfort (Aug 7, 2012)

If your burners are coming on and off after 2 secs then I would be changing the sensor


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## Marty S. (Oct 31, 2009)

Clean the front.of the burners first. The flame sensor is just a steel rod for the voltage from the control board to jump through the flame and get back to ground via the burner faces. Voltage present-clean flame sensor-clean burner face and good ground are all needed for the flame to stay on.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

I removed and checked the Burner, was Clean and fine, maybe a very little light rusty corrosion, no scaling, but other wise fine. I only took this particular Burner off and checked it overall for any obstructions, etc. and I only wiped the Burner face off with my Hand. Are you saying then I need to Wirebrush the little bit of "rusty film" off the actual face of this Burner in front of the Rod, and get it back to bare metal the best I can? 

Thanks, Marty S!


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## Marty S. (Oct 31, 2009)

Yes. Even thin surface rust acts as an insulator.Remember we're only dealing with a 1-2 microamp currant so it doesn't take much to mess it up.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

OK Marty, I will take it apart and try wirebrushing the face of the 4th Burner this weekend and re-post. Tell me this, I found a Flame Sensor on Ebay for only $7.50. It physically looks exactly the same, except the Seller tells me it is 1/2" short in length than mine. (Everything else about it looks identical, small mounting foot and all.) He asked for a specific Model No. and my Furnace has no Nameplate data that I can find. Where is this suppose to be? I've looked all over! So I'm kinda off stuck, but if I need to buy this from him, it would work for me? they all are pretty much universal, like Acomfort suggests, Yes? (Just trying to learn from you guys.) Hopefully the wirebrushing will get me back to normal operation. Thanks again Friend! 
I will post my results soon, believe it or not, it's actually getting a bit chilly up here now....


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

Northwoodslakes said:


> OK Marty, I will take it apart and try wirebrushing the face of the 4th Burner this weekend and re-post. Tell me this, I found a Flame Sensor on Ebay for only $7.50. It physically looks exactly the same, except the Seller tells me it is 1/2" short in length than mine. (Everything else about it looks identical, small mounting foot and all.) He asked for a specific Model No. and my Furnace has no Nameplate data that I can find. Where is this suppose to be? I've looked all over! So I'm kinda off stuck, but if I need to buy this from him, it would work for me? they all are pretty much universal, like Acomfort suggests, Yes? (Just trying to learn from you guys.) Hopefully the wirebrushing will get me back to normal operation. Thanks again Friend!
> I will post my results soon, believe it or not, it's actually getting a bit chilly up here now....


 1/2" which way...on white wire side or metal rod side. remember it must enter the flame of the burnner...can you get a picture of your furnace with door on....and one with door off...


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Yes, I hope he gets me more detailed info. My Sensor is 2 7/8" lg. below the foot (Burner end) with 2" of it being the metal rod. Yeah, I hope his short end is the wire end. I figure that if the business end is within 1/4" I will be good. When I removed it, I saw it had been cleaned before and about 3/8" of the end was a bit carboned up. The rest was shiny and clean. I wish this guy on Ebay would answer my specific length question, but now it's the weekend; so I guess I'll have to wait on him.
In my "google searching", I saw a website that quoted $139.00 for this sensor, can you even believe it?? They claim it is an exact factory replacement. I'm thinking this Furnace is so old I most likely cannot even get a factory match? There is only the lift off front panel door, a decal saying Comfortmaker RPG II. No other specific data, e.g. Model #, Serial #........ It is 80K BTU, I do know that on a decal glued to the inside sheet metal chassis.


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## Acomfort (Aug 7, 2012)

If you can find a flame sensor that is the right length regardless of the white part length it will work. As long as you can mount it and have that sensor in the flame your good to go.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

*New Sensor*

OK, guys thanks for the help. I finally got time and found a Sensor that is a very close match; the same dimensions within 1/8" of my old one. I got to say, the industry sure makes it confusing with all these different part numbers for basically the same damn thing! So now I'm good, the part will be here and I will install it next weekend and fire the Furnace back-up. I will also clean the Burner as you guys suggested. I saw where some Utube guy recommended you only need to "rinse the Burners in cold water to clean it?" I will wire brush, then rinse, fire it up and it will then get dry in a hurry. I am just surprised that this Utube guy said "you only need just to rinse them under water"? :whistling2:


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## Convict3 (Aug 15, 2012)

My.sesor acts up every season. I pull the little metal rod out and use a little sand paper to clean it. Works every time


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Sand paper is one of the worse things to use on a flame sensor. is scars them which causes them to get dirty faster.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

I believe that. I've only owned this House for 3 years; first time I have ever had a Sensor problem, but when I took this one out it looked "sanded clean" in the flame path from a previous person. But the bottom 3/8" lg. was dirty and carboned up. So yeah, I agree this one must be dead, plus it is most likely the original 1993 sensor.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Its just a piece of metal. If its dead, then the porcelain is cracked.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

*No Luck*

OK folks, I removed and cleaned the Burner, and installed a new Flame Sensor. Furnace is still doing the exact same thing! Damn... (New Ignitor installed last Fall, and it was all running fine then.)

1.) With the Sensor wire attached it will burn for 1-2 seconds, then will go out every time. I then still get the same 6 red flashes every time, after the flame burns out, and then I flip the power switch and try again and again, etc. 
2.) Now with the Sensor wire Unattached, the Burners do stay on much much longer, maybe 5-6 seconds, then go out. Why is this? And if I remember correctly, no flashing at all this time at the Control board after the flame goes out. Could my Control Board be the Culprit? 
4.) Someone mentioned bad ground, and so I removed the Burner and sanded/wirebrushed the rusty film off the Burner face; and still no progress! I thought for sure this was going to do the job. 
5.) I did replace the 24V transformer a few months back. I accidently shorted it out, screwing around and jumping some Control Board terminals, my stupidity. Could I have screwed something up then? I mean the AC works perfectly fine. The control board makes a short clicking sound and then the furnace ignitor starts to glows like always, then the Burners always do come on, but like I said ALWAYS go out quickly.
6.) My AC unit outside works perfectly fine. I've got my new digital Thermostat wired up; the 4 wires from the Therm. to the same matching terminals on the Control board in the Furnace. I've also have the 2 wires coming from the outside AC unit. 1 Black wire going to the "G" terminal on the Control board and the Blue wire to the "Y" terminal on the Control Board. Is this wiring proper for both the Heating and Cooling modes?

I tried to post some pics I took of my Furnace but can't get them to post! I will try pics again in another post.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

*2 Furnace pics*

Here's 2 pics of my Furnace


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

OK guys I know it looks bad and a bit rusty inside. An elderly woman who died there, owned this House before me and most likely didn't know much, you know; but anyhow It seems the Furnace Humidifier was leaking a little bit and I assume that's how some water got inside the Unit over the years. But all is fine, been using it now for 3 Winters. Look at Burner pic, Sharpie written: Unit install 10/5/1993.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Another pic oFurnace 8.2012 (16).jpgf Control Board


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The 2 wires from the outdoor unit, 1 should go to Y, and the other should go to the C terminal.

Does the error code legend say that 6 flashes is a flame failure error.


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

My memory for the 50A50A -112 is the 6 flash is reversed polarity or a bad ground.

Any chance that the new transformer wiring you changed has now reversed the polarity?? 

Also check any furnace ground connections back to the main panel.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

The error code on the door only goes up to 5 flashes on my Model.
I remember reading somewhere that 6 flashes had something to do with grounding? 
So OK, I have the outside unit wired up to Y & C terminals.
The AC works fine, now only if I can get the damn Burners to stay on!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Reverse the yellow and blue wires on the transformer.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> My memory for the 50A50A -112 is the 6 flash is reversed polarity or a bad ground.
> 
> Any chance that the new transformer wiring you changed has now reversed the polarity??
> 
> Also check any furnace ground connections back to the main panel.



You know I have even tried to pull the wires on and off ever which way on the new Transformer I installed, and this didn't seem to even affect anything? Everything else about the furnace wiring has remained the same. How do I check this as you suggest? I'm learning..


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Ned to open the panel box and check the ground from the furnace to make sure its tight, may also need to check the panel boxes ground.

Did the old transformer have one of its terminals connected to the furnace frame.


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

Looks like there has been some rewiring there. The high voltage side of your transformer looks like both the 120V and the neutral lines are black. Is one of those lines connected to a neutral??? 

Is the green ground line connected to the 50A50A-112 *well* connected on both ends?? Can you do a continuity test on that line and connections?


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Gentlemen, thanks for all the suggestions, but Nada, nothing. I even took off the new Transformer and looked at the foot. It was coated with like a plastic film or something, so I took some Emery cloth and sanded that down to bare metal, (like my old one was.) But still absolutely No difference. 
I will attach a few pics I took of the transformer and the wiring diagram I made, showing how I have it wired. I've tried switching wires, 120V common and hot sides, and the 24V side as well. But nothing has helped.

What is your Opinion on the fact that all the Burners stay on SO MUCH LONGER, 5-6 seconds at least before Flame out. Then I attach the Sensor wire and the Burners only light for like 1 second! Why is this? Is this telling me anything?


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> Looks like there has been some rewiring there. The high voltage side of your transformer looks like both the 120V and the neutral lines are black. Is one of those lines connected to a neutral???
> 
> Is the green ground line connected to the 50A50A-112 *well* connected on both ends?? Can you do a continuity test on that line and connections?


120V Power is Black and Common is White Wire, both ends connected well Transformer/Control Unit.
Yes green is good. It is attached/grounded to the frame that hangs the Blower. I also sanded this electrical eyelet connection, plus I even took an alligator clip and extended the ground to a copper water pipe (close by feeding my Water Heater.) I will check to make sure the other end (the plug connector) is not loose.

Can you please briefly explain how to do a Continuity test? Yeah, I do have a meter with the 2 wire probes, but need you to explain if it isn't too involved? I Am learning from you guys!:thumbup:
I just don't understand it, my AC unit works just fine thru the Control Unit, yet I always have Burner flame out when turning the on the Heat..
This Furnace worked just fine until I put in the new transformer. I burnt up the old one screwing around with the Thermostat terminal connections with a jumper wire like a Dummy, but after the smell I figured I burnt-up the Transformer. I Bought a new one on Ebay and all was fine. AC works perfect, but not Heating. I mean the 120V / 24V transformer must not be bad if it is working when I turn the AC on? This new Transformer has a 40v rating, (the old one had a 30V rating). I could not find the exact replacement and I was told this one would work fine. It is pretty much looks/mounts the same in every other way. This would have nothing to do with the Burners?


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

beenthere said:


> Reverse the yellow and blue wires on the transformer.


Man, I've reversed all 4 transformer wires every which way on the Transformer and the Burners always behave the same way like I said. Flame Out!


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

Your new pic's show the transformer neutral as white...My bad.

Do the main burner flames continuously envelope the flame sensor rod for those 5 - 6 seconds of start up? 
Do the flames from the burner enveloping the flame rod, look the same as the flames on the other burners?


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Yep, everything looks exactly like it should when the Burners fire up. Why does the Burner stay on so much longer when I detach the Sensor Rod wire? What is that telling me? I mean it looks like all is working normal with the Sensor wire off, then like I said 5,6,7 seconds later flame out. And it behaves the exact same way everytime I try it. Wire on or wire off. I don't get it.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

hook the blue and yellow back up as in drawing. then run a wire from it to the furnace cabinet or burner chassi.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

beenthere said:


> hook the blue and yellow back up as in drawing. then run a wire from it to the furnace cabinet or burner chassi.


OK today, I took a hard look at the green ground wire from the Control Board connector to the Furnace chassis, like "how" suggested.( it's attached with a Sheet metal screw thru the green wire eyelet connector then thru the bracket that hols the blower and then into the Furnace sheet metal chassis. I took it all apart and sandpapered/scraped it down to bare metal. Fired up the Furnace and SAME old CRAP!

Now: "beenthere" you say run a wire from it? Where are you talking a connection on the transformer? The 120V common side or the 24V common side? The wiring in my drawing is exactly as I have it wired up right now. 
I did try reversing the blue/yellow on the 24V side like you suggested, but it didn't change anything. NADA.........


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Any other ideas??
Could my Control Board be bad?
What about the fact that the Burners stay on for approx. 5-6 seconds before flame out without the Sensor wire attached? 
And with the Rod wire attached, flame-out happens in about 1 second?
Thoughts anyone????????????


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

I'm going to go ahead and state the obvious, change the control board. I'll bet you $100.00 (which is more than the cost of that board) that it's faulty. 

Ask me how I know.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> Your new pic's show the transformer neutral as white...My bad.
> 
> Do the main burner flames continuously envelope the flame sensor rod for those 5 - 6 seconds of start up?
> Do the flames from the burner enveloping the flame rod, look the same as the flames on the other burners?



Yes and yes again. I mean all looks exactly as it should! I know because I was involved when we replaced the Ignitor last Fall. So I'm familiar with how she fires and runs. I will say this though, some of the time the first Burner lights and then their is a maybe a 1/4 second, a quick delay before the other 3 Burners light up together. But it's run like that for the 3 years I've owned the place. And yes the flame is a nice Full Blue flame. Thye Sensor Rod is in Full flame like it is supposed to be. Locatiuon and mounting of new Sensor exactly as old one I took out. I've even tried to interchange them. I mean I just don't get it.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> I'm going to go ahead and state the obvious, change the control board. I'll bet you $100.00 (which is more than the cost of that board) that it's faulty.
> 
> Ask me how I know.


You know Doc, that is what I am thinking. I me4an what the Heck else can it be? 
HOW DO YOU KNOW?:yes:


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Because all the other techs have gone through everything else! :thumbup:

You wouldn't put your computer in a sauna for three years, would you? Well that control board has been in one for three years and it's what a motherboard is to your pc. 

Water and electronic components _still_ do not mix.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Let me throw anything out there:

This new Transformer is NOT the exact replacement. Everything is pretty much identical except this new one has a 40V rating whereas the old Bessler Transformer was 30V.But this wouldn't make a difference would it? 
This Transformer does make a real low hum noise, nothing serious..

The outdoor AC unit goes thru the Control Board and that works perfectly fine!


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

volt amperes. It's a 120 volt transformer, 40 volt AMPERES transformer. I'd start over with the correct 30 va one.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> Because all the other techs have gone through everything else! :thumbup:
> 
> You wouldn't put your computer in a sauna for three years, would you? Well that control board has been in one for three years and it's what a motherboard is to your pc.
> 
> Water and electronic components _still_ do not mix.


But why was it NEVER a problem until I changed out the Transformer??
The rust you see is old, old leakage from the Old lady that didn't keep an eye on the Humidifier. (You know what I mean) I readjusted the float, fixed and adjusted a few things and the Humidifier no longer leaks at all since I did that repair 3 years ago. It's working perfect. 
The Furnace was working just fine even before I re-did the Humidifier. So I DO NOT believe water is the problem at all. Plus the fact that NO Water got into the Board, it is just the Chassis that is a little rusty. But NOT real bad. If it were this would have been a problem long ago, like after I moved in.:yes:
So I'm still waiting for other suggestions? Everyone thin ks it is definitely ground related? If I don't get anymore ideas, I will replace the Board. I saw a used one on Ebay for like $70.00 awhile back.


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

We've been basically getting you to test out other simple possibilities instead of just changing your 50A50-112, but as "Doc" suggests, it's probably time to take the plunge.

A pro at this time would be 
confirming the DC milli amp of your flame sensor when the gas is burning.
checking if the 50A50 is even powering the flame sensor.
and making sure the gas valve is not still getting 24V after the furnace gas shuts off.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Northwoodslakes said:


> But why was it NEVER a problem until I changed out the Transformer??
> The rust you see is old, old leakage from the Old lady that didn't keep an eye on the Humidifier. (You know what I mean) I readjusted the float, fixed and adjusted a few things and the Humidifier no longer leaks at all since I did that repair 3 years ago. It's working perfect.
> The Furnace was working just fine even before I re-did the Humidifier. So I DO NOT believe water is the problem at all. Plus the fact that NO Water got into the Board, it is just the Chassis that is a little rusty. But NOT real bad. If it were this would have been a problem long ago, like after I moved in.:yes:
> So I'm still waiting for other suggestions? Everyone thin ks it is definitely ground related? If I don't get anymore ideas, I will replace the Board. I saw a used one on Ebay for like $70.00 awhile back.


I only kind of glanced through this thread thus far, only now seeing that the problem was only after you changed the transformer. What was the problem before, why did you change the transformer?


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> volt amperes. It's a 120 volt transformer, 40 volt AMPERES transformer. I'd start over with the correct 30 va one.


I asked the tech that I bought the new transformer from and he assured me that this one would work fine for me. My original Bessler Transformer is not made anymore, so I matched this new one the best I could.
I could not find a Transformer with the 50/60 HZ rating to match the old one, This one matches in every way except like I said old 30VA this new one 40VA. I would think this one with the higher capacity would be fine. No?:wink:


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> I only kind of glanced through this thread thus far, only now seeing that the problem was only after you changed the transformer. What was the problem before, why did you change the transformer?


I burnt out the old Transformer while using a test probe/w wire alligator clip on some of the Thermostat terminals on the Board, and being a Novice I toasted the old Transformer. Do any of you guys think I may have harmed the internal circuitry inside the Control Board for the Flame Sensor as well while doing this? 
(I know I toasted the Transformer because of the obvious smell, so I replaced it and the AC worked just fine, but now I'm always having the Flame out)
Thanks for your help!:thumbup:


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

I said I'd start there as electronics and electricity look good on paper but in actuality can be very moody, touchy feely, highly sensitive. I would at least give it a shot but you're right, it should work. 

Again, why did you change the transformer in the first place?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Northwoodslakes said:


> I burnt out the old Transformer while using a test probe/w wire alligator clip on some of the Thermostat terminals on the Board, and being a Novice I toasted the old Transformer. Do any of you guys think I may have harmed the internal circuitry inside the Control Board for the Flame Sensor as well while doing this?
> (I know I toasted the Transformer because of the obvious smell, so I replaced it and the AC worked just fine, but now I'm always having the Flame out)
> Thanks for your help!:thumbup:



How, I'm done with this guy. You can have at it. :thumbsup:


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> We've been basically getting you to test out other simple possibilities instead of just changing your 50A50-112, but as "Doc" suggests, it's probably time to take the plunge.
> 
> A pro at this time would be
> confirming the DC milli amp of your flame sensor when the gas is burning.
> ...


"how" I have a meter, but of course a novice. Can you tell me what and how to use it. I know how to set the dial for 120V ,and you have the 2 probe leads, one black, one red. Obvoiusly the One probe end goes on the Sensor Rod wire connection and the other end goes where? That plug where the Flame sensor wire goes into the Control Board is impossible to get anything to touch it. Is it too complicated to explain to me?
Thanks in advance "how"


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> How, I'm done with this guy. You can have at it. :thumbsup:


 Hey, Doc, I told you guys I'm a NOVICE when it comes to electrical stuff! I'm learning from you folks! I appreciate all I can learn from all you experts!
You guys have solved many a problem, but mine seems more involved? I've done everything that has been suggested. 
DO you guys think I may have toasted the Board when it comes to control of the Flame Sensor?


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> We've been basically getting you to test out other simple possibilities instead of just changing your 50A50-112, but as "Doc" suggests, it's probably time to take the plunge.
> 
> A pro at this time would be
> confirming the DC milli amp of your flame sensor when the gas is burning.
> ...


"how" please don't jump ship on me like "Doc" did so quickly. If you can explain how a pro would test, I do have a Meter and would really like to try this before replacing the Control Board. You are exactly right, This sounds like what I really need to be doing. Do m just attach one probe end to ground and the other to the electrical connector on the Flame sensor? Then what do I look for in the Meter when it fires? 
Is it too much to explain? I hope you can try, this will be the determining factor as you say. I think it is most likely the Board and would like to test it, if you can explain easily enough? :huh:
Thanks in advance.


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

It takes very little of a voltage surge to damage electronic boards.
Your probe mishap with the transformer "experiment" could easily damage a 50A50.
I think the directions for doing a *DC milli amp* test on the flame probe circuit is questionable given your experience and probable test equipment.

Your reasonable options are 

guess that the 50A50 is faulty and change it. (not with a used one)
or
get a pro to test it *all* & change what is needed.

This is not a good project for a novice to get involved with because of the safety issues and the additional expenses that your experimenting might cost you.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> It takes very little of a voltage surge to damage electronic boards.
> Your probe mishap with the transformer "experiment" could easily damage a 50A50.
> I think the directions for doing a DC milli amp test on the flame probe circuit is questionable given your experience and probable test equipment.
> 
> ...


OK, "how" Thanks for your response. The furnace is 1993 vintage. A brand 
new Board is expensive, and I don't believe this Furnace is even worth it. I will spend the $70.00 and get the used one from a reputable seller and exchange my Board with it. I'm thinking from all you've tried to teach me and yes I tried all things. I most likely fried it like you said.
Then if that does not work. I will hire a Pro and replace the entire Furnace. Perhaps time has come. I'm not going to throw good money at an Old Furnace. I think a new Board was like $300.00.
So thank you for your wisdom and expertise. (I certainly wish I knew more about the ins and out of electrical, but NADA) Thank you Friend!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Common of the 24 volt side.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

how said:


> It takes very little of a voltage surge to damage electronic boards.
> Your probe mishap with the transformer "experiment" could easily damage a 50A50.
> I think the directions for doing a *DC milli amp* test on the flame probe circuit is questionable given your experience and probable test equipment.
> 
> ...


OK guys, Doc was right, I researched and found a universal replacement Board, the White Rodgers 50A55-843, brand new one for only $74.00. I appreciate all the great input from you guys on this DIYBoard. But please assure me that I do have the right replacement Board, (I've read on a few sites that maybe it isn't compatible? You read all kinds of crap on the Internet.) But I mostly have read it is and will be an easy install. Thanks to you in advance!! I will be so glad to get this aggravation fixed once and for all. What do you think "how"? I was so amazed to find this new Unit as you suggested. Only 74 Bucks!


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

That is correct.

http://part-s-mart.com/white-rodgers-50a50-112-control-board.html


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Don't install that board. If you do, a nuclear power plant in China will blow up. Its a secret weapon invented by the KGB back in 1994. LOL... Just kidding around.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

That was just terrible, BT. :thumbup:


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## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

Northwoodslakes said:


> What about the fact that the Burners stay on for approx. 5-6 seconds before flame out without the Sensor wire attached?


This is a design feature for the control board to allow the gas valve to open to light the burners so it can "see" the flame sensor. Without it allowing this it would never light. This is simply a timer in the control board. You indicated that the ground wires are hooked up in the junction box...are they all connected back to the main panel? Set your meter to Ohms and see what the reading is between the burner tube and the ground wire in the junction box. It should be the same as if you connect both meter leads together.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

beenthere said:


> Don't install that board. If you do, a nuclear power plant in China will blow up. Its a secret weapon invented by the KGB back in 1994. LOL... Just kidding around.


 hey bt thats just not right..lol:laughing::laughing: but i liked it..


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> That is correct.
> 
> http://part-s-mart.com/white-rodgers-50a50-112-control-board.html


Doc, thanks for that Confirm! 
OK guys, Even I can't wait to get the last laugh, after I get this damn thing fired back up and working like it should. 
(My old one is an Inter-City Product, not a White-Rodgers, but nevertheless it's a 50A50-112.) Good price, Eh Doc? I remember seeing one for like $300. way back when...
Hope to be a Happy Camper soon, Thanks again.

You guys have been great:no: Ride On Guru's....
Happy Labor Holiday to you all.


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## Northwoodslakes (Aug 9, 2012)

All's fixed! New Board did the trick. Thanks for all the help you Techs gave me. Next up will be a new Furnace down the road, but I'm set for awhile. $100 for a Board, flame sensor, and transformer. That was an inexpensive fix thanks to your suggestions. Have squeaked out 19 years on this Comfortmaker Furnace, next $$ spent will be a full replacement. But good to go for now, will need heat soon, got her fixed just in time.
Thanks!


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## bdnwtkfg (Nov 26, 2013)

*comfortmaker not igniting*

I have a Comfortmaker GNI080 with the 50a50 controller. the induction motor comes on, but I never get a glow or igniter on. I do hear a click (assuming it one of the valves trying to open) but nothing else happens... weird part is, no LED lights (codes) on the controller like I am reading everywhere. I pulled out the flame sensor, it seemed very clean, but I wiped it down anyways. that's all I have done as of now. I live in a dry area of So. Calif. so moisture isn't an issue

ANY help will be greatly appreciated

THANKS
BDN
(Big Dave)


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## Acomfort (Aug 7, 2012)

if you have power going to ignitor, and no glow.. than its the ignitor.. if you have no power to ignitor and no leds than I would say look at the board.
I would suggest that you call out a local technician though, gas isn't something to play with.


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