# insulating wall behind cabinets ?



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

are there any special precautions to be taken when rebuilding/insulating the walls behind cabinets in a new kitchen ?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

None I can think of, strange question, any reason your asking?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

IMO, put some horizontal blocking in between studs to screw cabinets too (some let-in plywood strips for upper/lower rails). ADA the drywall, if an exterior wall; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach/ Foam gaskets on interior walls. Caulk the sheathing/wood framing joints against air infiltration/exfiltration to get full R-value from insulation. Caulk the wall/ceiling drywall joint, all wiring/plumbing holes through top/bottom plates. Caulk the bottom plate/subfloor joint against air per code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002_par021.htm

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002_par022.htm
Take a picture/store on computer of complex plumbing/wiring as a reference for work after drywall hides it all. Add layers of rigid foamboard below top plates (in stud cavities) as this leads to major heat loss/ice dams on exterior walls.

Gary


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Nothing specific.

I do like the blocking that Gary recommends and same approach as any exterior wall. Air tight and insulated right.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i am asking because = years ago, i put some boxs of stuff up against an exterior wall. and mode grew there. cabinets are boxs, and all of my new ones are going to be on exterior walls. obviously i don't want to start a mold farm. 

Gary. i am already doing all those air sealing things. and thanx for the blocking idea. that makes a lot of sense , and i will implement it. 

and i take a bunch of pics throughout. 

the room is now a bedroom, that was added on after the house was build. in the typical poor construction of this house. actually it was a porch, then build out another %50 and closed up into a room. i am waiting for the weather to break, so i can start demo.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

You have the skip sheathing with the tar paper if I recall correctly?

Some insulation at the outer layer that is a bit more resistant to the solar vapor push will help keep the solar driven moisture out of the walls and off the back of the cabinets. 

You don't want a vapor trap but anything to break up the capillary action and vapor push will help.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Maybe there is no existing vapor barrier/retarder? Are there any holes in the plate from checking below, in the crawl/basement, that wiring/plumbing is run; letting cold air into the wall cavity condensing warm air from the room, on surface. Lol, I have a cold/cough, the meds restrict typing/formatting.

Gary


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## <*(((>< (Mar 6, 2009)

Gary in WA said:


> IMO, put some horizontal blocking in between studs to screw cabinets too (some let-in plywood strips for upper/lower rails). ADA the drywall, if an exterior wall; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach/ Foam gaskets on interior walls. Caulk the sheathing/wood framing joints against air infiltration/exfiltration to get full R-value from insulation. Caulk the wall/ceiling drywall joint, all wiring/plumbing holes through top/bottom plates. Caulk the bottom plate/subfloor joint against air per code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002_par021.htm
> 
> http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002_par022.htm
> Take a picture/store on computer of complex plumbing/wiring as a reference for work after drywall hides it all. Add layers of rigid foamboard below top plates (in stud cavities) as this leads to major heat loss/ice dams on exterior walls.
> ...


Gary you never cease to amaze me, you are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to this stuff, good to have you in this forum. Your links are always useful to refer back to.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> You have the skip sheathing with the tar paper if I recall correctly?
> 
> Some insulation at the outer layer that is a bit more resistant to the solar vapor push will help keep the solar driven moisture out of the walls and off the back of the cabinets.
> 
> You don't want a vapor trap but anything to break up the capillary action and vapor push will help.


no. i have T&G sheathing, 1" XPS inside cavity and roxul to fill it out. everything caulked up tight. XPS will go under the siding when i get to it.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Gary in WA said:


> Maybe there is no existing vapor barrier/retarder? Are there any holes in the plate from checking below, in the crawl/basement, that wiring/plumbing is run; letting cold air into the wall cavity condensing warm air from the room, on surface. Lol, I have a cold/cough, the meds restrict typing/formatting.
> 
> Gary


the room is being gutted to studs, new sistered joists and a layer of floor sheathing over the original subfloor. new windows, doors, electric, plumbing, flooring, drywall. well, everything, all new everything.


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