# How to prepare toilet drain pipe for toilet flange?



## brett.c.brown (Sep 1, 2011)

Hi all... I'm redoing a bathroom circa 1954. It was old, pink, and ugly. I tore out the old tile and mud bed floor. Now I'm getting ready to put down new plywood subfloor (23/32"), then 1/4" Hardiebacker, then finally 5/16" tile (with thinset under the Hardiebacker and tile layers).

Before I try to explain my situation, here are some pictures (since they probably explain it better than I will):
https://picasaweb.google.com/113020979068237756420/Bathroom?authuser=0&feat=directlink

In order for me to cut/fit the plywood close and snug around the toilet drain pipe (that's what I'm calling it, it's the pipe that my toilet sat over) I wanted to take off the old toilet flange. When I was messing around with it trying to see how to get the toilet flange off, I realized the top of the toilet drain pipe was fairly pliable, so I bent it up all around, and then I was able to slide off the toilet flange. However, in the process of me bending up the end of the toilet drain pipe, part of it broke off. Woops. You can see in one of the pictures where the piece broke off.

What do I do with this pipe that's sticking out of the floor now in order to prepare it for a new toilet flange (or in order to accept my old toilet flange).

Did I screw this up bad enough so the whole connector piece coming up from my closet bend (i believe that's the correct terminology) needs to be torn out now and replaced? If so, is that something a DIY'er can pull off or would I be better off calling a pro (and what should I expect to pay for a pro?).

Oh yeah, and if it matters, this is a first floor bathroom and I can access everything beneath the floor easily from the basement.

Thanks in advance! Hoping to get this project wrapped up by November when my first kid arrives!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

There are some pretty good guys giving advice on here. Where's Eplumber or Alan or ohmike? Surprised noone has chimed in on this one. Anyway have you remedied this yet? 

I'm just a DIYer but looks like that vertical piece is leaded into that hub. If you try to cut that vertical you will disturb the insertion at the hub.

You could of tried a repair flange shown here:
http://www.oatey.com/Channel/Shared/ProductGroupDetail/106/Cast+Iron+Flange+Replacement.html


Would be nice to be able to cut past the hub of the cast in photo 5, use a banded fernco to join PVC, a long sweep 90 up, Then a stub out of the 90 to a new flange. Here was my recent install:


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That looks like a lead riser pipe----I didn't realize they were still used when your house was built.

I suggest removing the mashed up length of pipe--and replacing it with PVC using a rubber hub coupling (doughnut)

Removing the old pipe usually requires digging out the lead between the hub and the riser pipe--A drill helps to get a hole started in the lead--then a screw driver to pry it out--a gentile rocking of the old pipe will compress the lead joint after you have pried out most of it.---Mike---


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> I suggest removing the mashed up length of pipe--and replacing it with PVC using a rubber hub coupling (doughnut)



Mike----> After he removed that lead riser from the hub...does that doughnut fit inside the hub and the new 3" goes into the doughnut? If so is the 3" just held in place inside the hub/doughnut by compression?


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

hammerlane said:


> Mike----> After he removed that lead riser from the hub...does that doughnut fit inside the hub and the new 3" goes into the doughnut? If so is the 3" just held in place inside the hub/doughnut by compression?


Yep. I used a 2" one for the first time about 6 months ago. They are frickin sweet as molasses.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

I'll have to put that fix in the archives for when the plumbing gods are not shining on me.


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## Roxerroneous (Oct 16, 2011)

Hey everyone. I stumbled across this thread while researching the same problem as Brett. I was hoping I might be able to get some advice without derailing the original thread too much. 

I also have a house built in the 1950s and have taken the bathroom apart due to a leak. When I removed the toilet, I found that the closet flange was damaged and the lead pipe to which it was attached, had also broken. I've taken up part of the subfloor and it looks like my lead extension is going into a cast iron pipe (our main sewer line). Being that I'm not working with PVC as Brett is, do you guys have any suggestions? Would a rubber coupling work in my scenario? I'm looking to find a fix that will last and am a little out of my league. Any advice would be appreciated.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Exact same advice----remove the toilet extension from the hub---and switch to 3" PVC using a doughnut.


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## Ed911 (Oct 15, 2011)

*rubber donut...*

Thanks for the reply...I was wondering if you could post a link to the product you are talking about. It sure would help us DIY'ers who are knowledge limited.

Thanks, Ed


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## picflight (Aug 25, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> Exact same advice----remove the toilet extension from the hub---and switch to 3" PVC using a doughnut.


Mike, can you link to a diagram with the items you are talking about.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

picflight said:


> Mike, can you link to a diagram with the items you are talking about.


http://www.tylerpipe.com/submittals/soilpipe/ty-seal.pdf
This link is to a "tyseal" gasket. I believe its the same or very similar to what Mike uses. Ask at a good hardware store or plumbing supply house- they should carry them. 
A side note- Corp Of Eng. required Tyseal pipe and gaskets for ground roughs at our local air field in the early 90's, not sure about now.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

yep thats it ...these things are sweet....make life easier for the lonely plumber......


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