# New dry wall install has gaps...



## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

First, was the ceiling drywall installed before the wall drywall? If so, then, when the wall drywall went up, it should've been lifted snug to the ceiling, then fastened.

I suppose you could fill the gap with hot mud.


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## hemi79 (May 10, 2013)

yeah, i figured i would have to rely on mud to fill it all up. 3 of the walls are CMU and the 1 that is drywall was put up recently, so the ceiling was the only drywall that went up. When you say "hot" mud, you mean the mixed instead of the ready box mud? 

Thanks,


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Paper tape and Hot mud. about the only way your going to fix that.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Mix a batch of 20 minute mud and prefill all gaps and holes before taping---you will be fine.


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

hemi79 said:


> yeah, i figured i would have to rely on mud to fill it all up. 3 of the walls are CMU and the 1 that is drywall was put up recently, so the ceiling was the only drywall that went up. When you say "hot" mud, you mean the mixed instead of the ready box mud?
> 
> Thanks,


 
Hot mud does only come as a powder and must be mixed. But, it's different than regular mixup mud. It hardens by an exothermic chemical reaction, rather than by evaporation. It's also stronger than regular mud.


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> Mix a batch of 20 minute mud and prefill all gaps and holes before taping---you will be fine.


If it's their first time using hotmud, I'd recommend 45-minute.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Seattle2k said:


> If it's their first time using hotmud, I'd recommend 45-minute.


 
at the minimum, maybe 90?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I've filled bigger gaps than that with the green lid premixed compound and didn't have issues. This was in 04 and still looks good. Just filled, taped, and finished mudding as usual. The advice above it probably better, but just sharing my experience.


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## hemi79 (May 10, 2013)

Well thanks for the responses everyone. We had initially started caulking, but im switching to using hot mud (45 min) and hopefully it will be fine. 
Thanks a bunch!


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

to be honest, if they are the major gaps in your drywall? I've seen nothing that's caused me to even consider hot mud. and caulk is the last thing you want to use! the mud adheres to the drywall by the moisture soaking into it as it dries simple movement will cause the mud to crack loose. filling those gaps when taping will be just fine. hot mud will stick, but it sets by chemical reaction more than moisture being drawn out by air on inside and outside. ready mix dries as the water is pulled into the paper under the mud and evaporation on outside. hot mud dries harder yes, is harder to sand too! but if it's too dry when put on no water is drawn into paper to hold it. it's just kind of setting on top. paint wont stick to silicon caulk because it cant soak in. you can do as you like, but I've never used hot mud for anything less than 1/2"-3/4" in my life, and projects I did 30 years ago still look fine!

it's up to you


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## hemi79 (May 10, 2013)

coupe said:


> to be honest, if they are the major gaps in your drywall? I've seen nothing that's caused me to even consider hot mud. and caulk is the last thing you want to use! the mud adheres to the drywall by the moisture soaking into it as it dries simple movement will cause the mud to crack loose. filling those gaps when taping will be just fine. hot mud will stick, but it sets by chemical reaction more than moisture being drawn out by air on inside and outside. ready mix dries as the water is pulled into the paper under the mud and evaporation on outside. hot mud dries harder yes, is harder to sand too! but if it's too dry when put on no water is drawn into paper to hold it. it's just kind of setting on top. paint wont stick to silicon caulk because it cant soak in. you can do as you like, but I've never used hot mud for anything less than 1/2"-3/4" in my life, and projects I did 30 years ago still look fine!
> 
> it's up to you


Thanks for the help. I didnt like the caulking idea either but the workers had done some of the gaps by the time i caught on to it so i continued to finish that wall. On the other gaps i think ill try a little of both the mud and taping. Not that i dont believe any of the posts, but i love doing this and now that i have the chance to work on it at my own pocket money i want to see the difference. When im doing work for someone else i always plan ahead and avoid these kind of things, but like i said its an old storage that is now an apt and i supsect demolishing the unit in about two yrs. if i posted a picture of one of the load bearing walls you would see what i mean.  

Thanks again for the help!


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i'd done lots of jobs where just the ceiling was tore out and you have to fit the ceiling board the best you can to the wall board. 1/4" and larger use the hot mud sheetrock, easy sand, etc. then paper tape it with green lid premixed mud and skim out with a finishing mud.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I agree with coupe, for all that is I would use the green lid to bury my tape, then my first coat, then thin it a little for the finish coat. Hot mud is a pita and in this case is really over kill. I would however remove the caulking, don't try to mud over it.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I would follow the board manufacturers' recommendations for the warranty/fire safety; "4.6.7.1 Gaps not greater than 1/8 in. (3 mm) shall be prefilled with either ready-mix or setting-type joint compound.
4.6.7.2 Gaps greater than 1/8 in. (3 mm) shall be prefilled with setting-type joint compound.
From; http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/GA-216-07 English.pdf

I'd check the fastener schedule on the ceiling as it appears lacking, especially if adding insulation weight above; pp.8 in that link. 

Gary


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I agree with Gary.....


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