# how much will primer hide?



## joshs (Jan 11, 2013)

Working on final sanding new construction in basement. Pain in the butt ;-) 

As I'm going around I have found a fair amount of pock marks and teeny tiny craters in some spots. Will using a 1/2 inch nap and quality primer fill and hide all these little marks? 

Or do I need to put another coat on a good portion of my seams?


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

As I'm going around I have found a fair amount of pock marks and teeny tiny craters in some spots. Will using a 1/2 inch nap and quality primer fill and hide all these little marks?
?[/QUOTE said:


> Not really, no.


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You should take the time to fill and sand them even with the wall. Expecting primer and paint to serve as a filler is asking for trouble. With a wide blade it will go fast and you will have minimal sanding to do unless you goop on the compound. In fact, you can probably wet sand (with car wash sponge) excess from such divots and small imperfections. Than prime and paint. 

If you try to Mickey Mouse the surface to start, the defects will end up showing up in your finish coats and especially if you are planning paint within any sheen at all to it. Now is the time to spend the extra effort to get the wall surface the best you can. Otherwise you will be sanding through primer and paint to fix the problem later.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

If you think you are done sanding--prime it--then do your spot touch ups---then prime the patches.

Some flaws can't be seen until after priming---that's the nature of drywall taping---


----------



## joshs (Jan 11, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. Just sick of sanding


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Josh.... Just remember... sanding is for high spots.... filling is for low spots. (I know sounds stupid... but sometimes we're reluctant to open the mud bucket again... ans somehow think we can sand out low spots.)


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

joshs said:


> Thanks for the replies. Just sick of sanding


I have gotten to the same point so many times over the years but realize you are near the end. You will kick yourself if you have come this far and try to compromise now.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

sdsester said:


> I have gotten to the same point so many times over the years but realize you are near the end. You will kick yourself if you have come this far and try to compromise now.


Yes... Or go real heavy knockdown....


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Drywall taping is a skill only learned with experience---

do not be to rough on yourself---you are the new guy on his first job---look your work over after priming---make the needed touch ups--

This is why the good tapers are always in demand---


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

There are primers called block fillers that will fill those in. But really it's easier to just fill them in.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Josh.... Just remember... sanding is for high spots.... filling is for low spots. (I know sounds stupid... but sometimes we're reluctant to open the mud bucket again... ans somehow think we can sand out low spots.)


Yeah, well the problem is, sometimes you can sand out the low spots, and sometimes it works. That's the reason it's tempting to try


----------



## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

Apply a coat of primer first, then try to fix any imperfections that there may be. 

Good Luck!


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

jeffnc said:


> Yeah, well the problem is, sometimes you can sand out the low spots, and sometimes it works. That's the reason it's tempting to try


Jeff.... I know and agree with you... that's why I'm the world's slowest finisher.

Best


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

jeffnc said:


> There are primers called block fillers that will fill those in. But really it's easier to just fill them in.


 not to argue with you( cause it is not worth the effort) but block fillers are for concrete and masonry not drywall


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

What ever you do--do not use block filler---


----------



## joshs (Jan 11, 2013)

Didn't even know block filler existed til now so I will keep it off the list


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You will be fine---get that primer on and see what you have---remember--shiny paint shows flaws much more that flat or low sheen paints---

Use a flat ceiling paint---and low sheen on the walls---


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Call it whatever you want, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Some people call block filler a specific masonry product, some use the name more generically.
e.g.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/builders-solution-surfacer/

Up to 11 mils (!) application thickness (i.e. about 10 times thicker than paint).

Use your heads guys, obviously we are not painting our walls with concrete paint where not specified for drywall. Having said that, there are some.
http://www.doitbest.com/Masonry+and...nt-model-Y53W00720-20-doitbest-sku-787523.dib


----------



## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

chrisn said:


> not to argue with you( cause it is not worth the effort) but block fillers are for concrete and masonry not drywall


Now you tell me. :laughing:


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

jeffnc said:


> Call it whatever you want, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Some people call block filler a specific masonry product, some use the name more generically.
> e.g.
> http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home-builders/products/catalog/builders-solution-surfacer/
> 
> ...


That is a high build primer not block filler. Block filler is for filling the holes in concrete block is very thick-50 sq.ft to a gallon.
And I don't get how sanding a low spot will come out alright. The more you sand the lower it will get or the bigger the low area will get till you have to do the whole thing over.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

This subject has been covered---if the OP returns with more questions--then we can answer them---


----------



## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> Drywall taping is a skill only learned with experience---
> 
> do not be to rough on yourself---you are the new guy on his first job---look your work over after priming---make the needed touch ups--
> 
> This is why the good tapers are always in demand---


Actually, it is best learned from a good professional drywall expert. You can do something wrong for 20 years and you might never learn the mistakes you are making. There is nothing like learning from the best.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ToolSeeker said:


> That is a high build primer not block filler. Block filler is for filling the holes in concrete block is very thick-50 sq.ft to a gallon.



I used to work with some guys that used the term for any generic high build coating. But I'm looking around the internet and I don't see anyone using it that way. I guess I will stop using the term block filler except for cinder block, and start saying "high build".



ToolSeeker said:


> And I don't get how sanding a low spot will come out alright. The more you sand the lower it will get or the bigger the low area will get till you have to do the whole thing over.


Well technically of course it doesn't come out right. I was just saying that sometimes you can sand surrounding a low spot and you won't notice it when you're done. Doesn't mean it's really the right thing to do.


----------



## joshs (Jan 11, 2013)

Man you guys have a way of taking a question and running with it  Thanks again for all the advice!


----------

