# small bathroom rough-in, see anything wrong?



## Bobiggs (Jan 21, 2010)

*more pics*

more pictures


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

I'm no plumber but looks ok to me. I did notice a corrugated plastic 4" vent tube running in one of your pictures. If for a dryer, most say it should be replaced with metal for fire issues. Not sure what kind of screws you used to anchor your brasswork, I'd used something other than drywall screws if they were used. Might want to secure water supply lines to joists every so often to prevent noise if they start moving around. Good luck with your project.


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

Be sure your toilet flange is 12" from where your finished wall will be for a 12" rough toilet. Often us DIYer's forget the finished wall is the reference point, not the framing to allow for different wall material and finishes. For 1/2 drywall I go 13" from the framing. It gives me a little fudge factor and often allows painting w/o removing the toilet in the future. It looks like your tub and sink traps are pretty much set with no adjustment. I don't see how that will work. I have always used a desanko or slip joint adapter (what ever you call them in that part of the country) for the sink so you can use a standard 1 1/2" p-trap with a 1 1/4" adapter for a typical vanity sink drain. For the tub I set the trap after the tub is installed. Of course I can't measure what you have but I don't see how a waste and overflow will fit a typical tub where your abs comes out of the floor.

It might be an optical illusion but I think your vents are sloped the wrong way. IT probably will not hurt anything if that is the case.

Rege


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

I would not use PEX for the tub fill spout, the smaller size can cause the shower to dribble while you fill the tub. Use copper tube or brass pipe for the tub fill leg.


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## Bobiggs (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks for the advice so far

Those were drywall screws I'll change them out.

The toilet flange is 12.5" out from the framed wall but maybe 13 " would be better. I'll try and find those slip or adjustable ptraps like were mentioned. apparently the tub we are getting has a built in overflow, so you only need 1 drain. 

someone else mentioned the thing about the fill spout and using pex I will replace it with a brass tube. 

Thanks for all your comments. Very helpful.


All the vents slope towards the stack.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

RegeSullivan said:


> Be sure your toilet flange is 12" from where your finished wall will be for a 12" rough toilet. Often us DIYer's forget the finished wall is the reference point, not the framing to allow for different wall material and finishes. For 1/2 drywall I go 13" from the framing. It gives me a little fudge factor and often allows painting w/o removing the toilet in the future. It looks like your tub and sink traps are pretty much set with no adjustment. I don't see how that will work. I have always used a desanko or slip joint adapter (what ever you call them in that part of the country) for the sink so you can use a standard 1 1/2" p-trap with a 1 1/4" adapter for a typical vanity sink drain. For the tub I set the trap after the tub is installed. Of course I can't measure what you have but I don't see how a waste and overflow will fit a typical tub where your abs comes out of the floor.
> 
> It might be an optical illusion but I think your vents are sloped the wrong way. IT probably will not hurt anything if that is the case.
> 
> Rege


Good eyes Rege, drains fall and vents rise


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## MI-Roger (Aug 8, 2009)

*I noticed the same thing*



47_47 said:


> Good eyes Rege, drains fall and vents rise


All vents are wrong, they slope the wrong way. All Wyes are installed reversed too. You want the air to rise as it travels to the vent stack, not fall.


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## adpanko (Jun 18, 2009)

Yes, try to slope the horizontal run of the vent pipe upward toward the stack. The tees that connect the vertical runs of vent to the horizontal run are reversed. Also, I can't see it really well, but it looks like the tee that connects horizontal run of the sink drain to the vertical wet vent/drain is upside down/reversed. That needs to be so that the water will flow down the tee into the drain; it looks like the tee is situated so the water would try to flow upward. Otherwise, a good layout overall. You may have wanted to leave a little extra space from the framing to the toilet drain; 12.5" is cutting it really close. But you should be okay.


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## daveb1 (Jan 15, 2010)

Be sure yor toilet fill line is close enough to the toilet inlet.I think most toilets fill on the other side.


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## paul100 (Aug 29, 2009)

It could be just the picture but on picture #814 are you missing one of the compression rings on the pex?


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

santees on vents are backwards,your horizontal vent line is pointed down on the end to tie into vent stack,should be pointed up where it ties into vent otherwise air goes down stack then has to go back up around a corner the way you have it.on your waste line under floor you have santees laid on back,which is ilegal around here anyway should be wyes instead .ill let somebody else have at ya now! :laughing:


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

i wouldve run the arm for tub drain/trap under joist instead of blowing that big hole in there,id beef that joist up :wink:


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

You have a vinyl flexible vent run under the floor. I would replace with a solid metal vent (aluminum or galvanized).


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