# Installing new insulation in my basement and removing the old moldy insulation.



## Fixitgeorge (Oct 17, 2006)

I recently removed bat insulation from my basement. The (yellow) fiberglass insulation was initially installed (between 2x4's) about 15 years’ ago. The reason why I removed it was that I noticed that the back of the insulation was black! Also, some of the exterior 2x4’s were black as well! I visited Home Depot and I purchased Owens Corning R-13 ProPink Fiberglass batting to replace the old moldy insulation. Please note that behind the insulation is Tyvak and the exterior is fiberboard siding. (I live in the Atlanta GA area.) The area that I am working with is 10 feet high by 50 linear feet.


My question is this: Prior to installing the new Owens Corning insulation, how should I prepare the interior Tyvak and adjacent 2x4’s? 

I am thinking of:


Spray down the area with a good insect / termite spray.
Followed by spraying the area with a liquid that will kill the mold. (ANY SUGGESTIONS?)
Caulk any areas / holes with a latex caulk.
Spray the Tyvak with a sealer (ANY SUGGESTIONS?) 
Install the new insulation, then 
Install plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier.
 Does this sound reasonable? 
Also, can I put plastic sheeting (vapor barrier) over the new insulation? Or, would the mold come back if I did that?


PLEASE HELP.

Thank you.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

*the code in our city requires a layer of separator*

between the insulation and the outside wall... some people use paint, some people like me use some roof paper... I do not really know the physics of this code requirement... but I did my basement with that ...


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Fixitgeorge said:


> My question is this: Prior to installing the new Owens Corning insulation, how should I prepare the interior Tyvak and adjacent 2x4’s?
> I am thinking of:
> 
> Spray down the area with a good insect / termite spray.
> ...


Solution to use is simple: water and bleach - kills all mold. industry standard in water and moisture damaged situations.
However, BEFORE,.....you do anything, find out WHY the damage is there. Do not replace anything until you find out what the problem is andproperly correct it. Once you make the correction...THEN replace and close up. Otherwise, it will come back...


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Also, just as a side note: this 'mold' issue has come up alot with construction. It has been often found out that the cause can be:

Heavy rainfall and damp comditions during the original construction phase. This may result in heavy moisture content in the framing members or .....sheetrock delivered to the construction site and allowed to sit and get damp. These construction materials are then installed and the moisture is then 'sealed up' in the walls and ....'voila'...black mold .......years later. 
This is an area that is being more closely monitered in the new construction field. 
I have noted this just in case the issue is not an 'active' moisture problem, but a may also be a previous issue..... originating during the original construction...... that should be investigated as well...

- my 2 cents -


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