# How to replace exterior door on cement sill?



## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

The new door (pic #3) has a built in threshold.
* What is the total Height and Width of the new door assembly?

* What will be the H & W of the opening when you remove the present door and Jamb? 

* Are you going to have to modify the existing side light window to accommodate the width of the new door assembly?

In pic #1 there is a high step up to the present sill. How High?
It would be most desirable IMO if that exterior transition could be brought up to the sill height.


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

Standard height(80") prehung doors are usually about 82 1/2 " high, without the brickmold. If you don't have that much, you either enlarge the top of the opening, or get a cutdown door. Don't do anything to the concrete sill unless absolutely necessary.

Personally, I would also replace the sidelight.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Just Bill said:


> Standard height(80") prehung doors are usually about 82 1/2 " high, without the brickmold. If you don't have that much, you either enlarge the top of the opening, or get a cutdown door. Don't do anything to the concrete sill unless absolutely necessary.
> 
> Personally, I would also replace the sidelight.


+1

You are not going to cut that concrete and 99% of the adjustments would be done at the header.

I would also consider full replacement to include that sidelite for a nice look.


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

+1 to the above comments. You are in for a bunch of extra work if the height won't fit. The $75-$100 for the proper height would have been a wise investment, as would the new sidelight.


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## cks (Sep 5, 2010)

*Thanks for the insights - much appreciated*

First, absolutely agree about replacing the sidelight, but the problem is I'm trying to do this for as little as possible.

I had read a couple of posts that talked of grinding or chiselling the sill down, but I'm happy to hear that you don't recommend it. 

I won't know the size of the rough opening until I remove some trim, but I suspect it'll be tight (and only tight if I'm lucky). I am imagining I might have to open up the wall to move the header up.

I have to confirm, but I think the existing sill slopes out, so putting the new door in will leave a gap between the edge of the new sill and the old cement sill. Any suggestions on how to fill the gap - or should I try to grind down just that part of the cement sill that the new door would rest on so that the new door has a level surface to rest on.

I'm looking forward to hearing your suggestions.
Thanks


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

CKS, Go ahead and remove that trim over the door now. I think you will definitely have a height problem because the new door has an integral threshold. You're likely to have a width problem too because you have a full dimension door. Your present door, like most, has probably been cut down slightly to make it fit.


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## cks (Sep 5, 2010)

*Fun job ahead*

I took a closer look. The sill seems fairly even, so I don't think I will need to worry about the door sitting unevenly. 

I will definitely take the trim off to see what the rough opening looks like for measurements. This seems like a project worth documenting. Hopefully someone will be able to learn from it.

Thanks for your insights. They are appreciated. 
Cliff


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

What to be learned: measure twice, buy once.... just sayin'.:whistling2:


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

I would leave that sidelite alone. It looks great. Maybe put a few more stickers on it. It's always popular to put a "protected by Smith & Wesson" sticker there.

You didn't send any pictures of the head of the door. Don't move the header, just cut some off.

Lord help you if you have a steel lintel up there and masonry over the top.


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