# Yellow Mold - How to remove? Is this White Mold?



## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I was thinking about keeping the shelving unit and cleaning everything off with something like Concrobium. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Concrobium-1-gal-Mold-Control-025-401/205397769?N=5yc1vZc6c3


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Clean the mold, buy a dehumidifier, stop worrying. Ron


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Thanks. What about the white powder-like stuff on the staircase? Does that look like mold too? (having trouble figuring that one out).


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Mold doesn't normally form at 60 percent humidity. After working out, remove the belt and any moisture laden towels and or clothing from the area and hang outdoors to dry.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Fairview said:


> Mold doesn't normally form at 60 percent humidity. After working out, remove the belt and any moisture laden towels and or clothing from the area and hang outdoors to dry.


I put a hygrometer at the bottom of the steps in the basement and it was at 64% RH this morning. I'm sure it got a lot higher during the summer. 

I don't use the belt, I've just been storing it down there. The weird part is only the belt and particle board seem affected, as well as the wood on the staircase on that 2x4.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

How best should I go about cleaning the basement? I was going to buy some Concrobium (mold remover) and clean the shelving unit and then use a killz type paint on the particle board shelves and put them back together. 

When I clean the basement, do I have to clean everything (floors, walls, all the wood beams, etc) _or should I just focus on the parts where I see the mold_ (particle board, shelving unit, beam, etc)?

I guess I'm not 100% sure how much cleaning I need to do. 

Does anyone know what the white stuff looks like? is that white mold?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You definitely have problems with air movement and moisture. See http://www.mold-advisor.com/yellow-mold.html


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Sure looks like mold to me.
Do not even bother trying to save that particle board, not worth the time.
It soaks up moisture like a sponge. Replace it with at least 1/2 plywood.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

joecaption said:


> Sure looks like mold to me.
> Do not even bother trying to save that particle board, not worth the time.
> It soaks up moisture like a sponge. Replace it with at least 1/2 plywood.


1/2" plywood? I can buy and cut some this weekend.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Do I have to replace that wood with the white moldy stuff on it? Or can I just clean it really good with some mold remover.

I'm confused at the extent I should clean (walls, ceiling, etc)?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Get rid of the belt and particle boards, as these items are more prone to the growth. Wear a mask when you handle these items and when you clean. Just remove and clean the boards. 

This is pretty common in unfinished basements it's from the dampness and no air circulation. After you clean run a dehumidifier for a while and set up a couple fans on low to keep the air moving.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ToolSeeker said:


> Get rid of the belt and particle boards, as these items are more prone to the growth. Wear a mask when you handle these items and when you clean. Just remove and clean the boards.
> 
> This is pretty common in unfinished basements it's from the dampness and no air circulation. After you clean run a dehumidifier for a while and set up a couple fans on low to keep the air moving.


So you don't think I need to mop the floors and clean the walls and ceilings with mold remover?

What did you mean by "Just remove and *clean the boards.*", which boards were you talking about cleaning?

I appreciate all the help guys. I just want to make sure I clean everything to prevent it from coming back. I assume I should throw away all the cardboard too (even though I don't see mold on it)?


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

It's apparent you are worried and have not done this before, It's okay.......
Remove and replace the molded items with new, Use your mold remover on the concrete walls and floor. Be sure to use a shop vac to suck up all the mess.
Use the dehumidifier and fans as suggested, then just keep an eye on everything.
This will ease your mind.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ron45 said:


> It's apparent you are worried and have not done this before, It's okay.......
> Remove and replace the molded items with new, Use your mold remover on the concrete walls and floor. Be sure to use a shop vac to suck up all the mess.
> Use the dehumidifier and fans as suggested, then just keep an eye on everything.
> This will ease your mind.


Thanks Ron. I'm definitely concerned because I want to stop whatever is causing it now to prevent future issues. One thing I wasn't sure about was that white powder on the 2x4 (on the stairs).. would you suggest that wood be replaced to?

Or just clean that white stuff up that's on the wood without replacing the piece?

I know this might sound stupid but I was wondering if I needed to clean the shop vac in and out after using it (to clean mold)?


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

It would be as easy if not easier to just replace the 2x4.
Rinsing the shop vac is a good idea.
You must do what will make you comfortable with the situation.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ron45 said:


> It would be as easy if not easier to just replace the 2x4.
> Rinsing the shop vac is a good idea.
> You must do what will make you comfortable with the situation.


I just noticed the wood at the top-right of this picture also has white powder (mold looking stuff) on it. This piece of wood would be harder to remove, safe to clean this piece? Or should I be removing all pieces of wood w it on?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Personally I would bring in a mold abatement company. If the spores have taken over that much in the basement. Who knows what is laying in the duct work or furnace.

Basically everything is going to have to come out of the basement. That means tossing anything that cannot be cleaned properly and let to dry out in the Sun.

Your Home Owner's Insurance may cover some of the costs on having a company come in and fix the problem. You also need to get the hvac to place conditioned and heated air down there, along with return vents.

You definitely have a big project on your hands.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> Personally I would bring in a mold abatement company. If the spores have taken over that much in the basement. Who knows what is laying in the duct work or furnace.
> 
> Basically everything is going to have to come out of the basement. That means tossing anything that cannot be cleaned properly and let to dry out in the Sun.
> 
> ...


The only place I see them (visibly) is on the particle board, leather belt, that 2x4, and the piece of wood above it. It doesn't seem to have spread too bad, I'm hoping I don't have to hire someone.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Any chance this is Efforvescence and not mold?


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

The word you're looking for is "efflorescence", and no, it doesn't occur on wood. You have mold.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ratherbefishin' said:


> The word you're looking for is "efflorescence", and no, it doesn't occur on wood. You have mold.


Thank you. I guess I will try and 'remove' as much wood as I can that has this on it and clean deliberately the pieces that are too tough to remove.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

As much doubt as you have Why not have it tested? If I understand right there are like 1200 varieties of mold and most are non toxic.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ToolSeeker said:


> As much doubt as you have Why not have it tested? If I understand right there are like 1200 varieties of mold and most are non toxic.


Originally I thought I would just clean it up (and not test it) since I know it's mold but now I'm starting to think it's important for me to find out what types of molds I have. 

Just in case they are toxic. 

I was more concerned with it eating away at the wood in the house.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I inspected the ceiling of the basement today and noticed I have some of the white mold on the framing floor joists. It seems minimal, and I'm hoping this wood can simply be cleaned and not replaced. 

Let me know what you think.

I bought this house only 9 months ago and wonder if these are just from me not running the AC and a dehumidifier?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

That is more than a few small spots. I would not doubt that the upstairs is also contaminated with the spores. That includes any clothing items, carpeting, bedding, etc..

You need to bring in an expert to look over this situation and see just how bad we are talking.

Either you can treat it as if it never happened, by spraying with Bleach & water, wiping with a rag, which helps to spread the spores. Or talk to a mold/mildew abatement specialists and have them check things out. That will also include setting up a sampler upstairs and downstairs, to take air quality samples.

Also helps to know where you live. Some areas have had higher concentrations of mold & mildew because of the damp Spring & Summer, than other areas.

Also, this could have been dormant for the past year, before the outbreak happened.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I'm in the NW suburbs of Illinois. I live on a small lake and the foundation had a couple cracks that were professionally sealed when I bought it. I also found radon when I bought it so they sealed the basement up with radon caulk and then put a fan/mitigation system in. 

I haven't been running a dehumidifier and it's at 65% RH right now.

Now I'm worried..


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Read the information here. Way too many non-experts offering you advice here.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-control-mold-part-1-a-178671/


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The moisture for mold to grow only needs to be on the surface where the oxygen level promotes mold growth. Nothing needs to be at a saturation point. This is why the dew point temperature monitoring is important but that doesn't seem to be important in the discussion of mold.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Read the information here. Way too many non-experts offering you advice here.
> 
> http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-control-mold-part-1-a-178671/


His problem right now is with the removal of the mold and spores that have contaminated the whole house. The OP needs to bring in the experts, than try and get rid of the problem on their own. If they do decide to take it on their own. They will just further contaminate the structure and belongings inside it.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

At this point you have a pretty minor problem., and you've got spores all through the house already. If you are uncomfortable doing this as DIY, then by all means call somebody, or at least call in the homeowners insurance and get their take on it. Although my experience is that many insurance adjusters are pretty clueless about mold, or have fallen for the same hype as most everyone else. I see one 2x4 with something on it, that can be cleaned and a belt and shelf unit that need to be bagged and hauled out to the trash. DIY this job=$25.00. Call for air sampling that will tell you nothing new? $500.00 around here. Call in a remediator to seal the 2x4 and package and haul out the belt and shelf? That's probably going to be a minimum of $1,000.00. Your call, of course, but my advice is to read the link I posted to at least educate yourself with good info before you make a decision.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Maintenance, that is not a minor problem. It is a major issue. Quit acting like the OP situation can just be cleaned up with some Mold/Mildew spray and rags.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

And why do you insist on turning this into the end of the world? I've dealt with mold for years and what I see here can be dealt with. The sky is not falling. Maybe you should read this link too.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-control-mold-part-1-a-178671/

Why some people on here seem to think they are somehow experts on all topics is beyond me. Mildew spray is for plants. This guy needs to kill some mold.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

There are 2 competing issues here
1) Killing/cleaning visible mold is very easy. It's controlling the mold spores, and saving what the mold is on that is difficult.
2) There are mold spores everywhere in the air, outside and inside.

So the bottom line is you have to create an environment where mold can't grow if you don't want mold. And that means, quite simply, eliminating some of the basic things mold needs.

If you clean up the mold, obviously you don't want to spew a bunch of mold spores around your house, but as I said mold spores are going to get around anyway. You could eliminate every mold spore in your house theoretically, but if you do, do you think mold won't grow again in a week if it has what it needs? For example, on a loaf of bread inside the plastic bag it came in, on top of your counter. How do you think that mold got there?

To "correctly" solve this problem, you need professional mold remediation. That is very expensive. Your insurance company probably won't cover it because there was no accident. However mold remediation is slightly overrated because as I said, there will always be mold spores in your home. Again: eliminate what mold needs to grow - that is the only solution.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ratherbefishin' said:


> The word you're looking for is "efflorescence", and no, it doesn't occur on wood. You have mold.


Technically no one here should tell you you have mold. The only way to be sure is to have it tested. Although common sense and a little knowledge can give you a pretty sure answer.

Efflorescence can also occur in wood, because wood can wick moisture that contains salts. Efflorescence is a result of salts leaching out, regardless of whether those salts are part of the material (e.g. concrete, mortar) or drawn in through capillary action (e.g. wood).

Here is some advice to help you determine
http://www.nachi.org/efflorescence.htm


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

jeffnc said:


> There are 2 competing issues here
> 1) Killing/cleaning visible mold is very easy. AGREE It's controlling the mold spores, and saving what the mold is on that is difficult. Some things are not salvageable. Mold spores are controllable to a degree.
> 2) There are mold spores everywhere in the air, outside and inside. True.
> 
> ...


 The idea is not to eliminate mold spores, which is impossible, it is to eliminate colonies that are producing spores and basically overloading the interior atmosphere. Even with professional remediation, there will be spores. The measure of success is when inside spore counts drop below outside levels. Remediation, if done properly, reduces spore counts and removes airborne mold fragments by removing and/or controlling the source.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Maintenance 6 said:


> The only mold sensitive environmental factor that is controllable is moisture.


This is obviously false. Temperature and food source are obviously controllable, and there are other factors beside food, water, and temperature. Obviously mold cannot grow outside a certain pH range, or in the presence of UV, or chlorine, etc. So while you listed 3 things mold needs in your link, the fact is mold has other environmental requirements as well.



Maintenance 6 said:


> You cannot come close to eliminating mold spores from a residence, not even in theory. The only thing that comes close is a very high tech clean room.


That is what "in theory" means. A clean room doesn't "come close" - it is free from mold spores, which are filterable with the correct equipment.



Maintenance 6 said:


> To "correctly" solve this problem, you need professional mold remediation. Disagree. There is almost nothing that a remediator does that an average homeowner can't also do.




A homeowner can also build a house from scratch, stitch up his own cut or repair his own car. So obviously a homeowner can remediate his own mold. The question is how much time will it take, how much research will it take, how much money will it take, how much effort will it take, and is all this overhead and learning curve worth it. They will need a lot of plastic, tape, air movers, dehumidifying, etc. and those are expensive rentals, assuming you can figure out how to use it all. And we haven't gotten into duct cleaning or environmental testing yet. Based on the OP's posts so far, he is not going to go to this extent. He is either going to hire some pros, or he is going to accept a lesser job on his own, which might be fine. In other words, he doesn't have to "correctly" solve this problem, meaning going the whole 9 yards.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

OP: The replies for your question are based on two realities that seem to be opposites but both true. Mold is in your house already and it is always and everywhere around us.
We and every other things alive evolved some sort of biological defences against the toxin that mold produces. But the defences fail when toxin concentration become overwhelming (that is, too much mold in the environment). But then that is true of any toxin around us. That is just a fact of life, esp these days.
If getting the professionals in your house to test and clean out the existing mold makes you feel better, it is your decision. Nobody can tell you what your situation is, since the toxicity (for you and your family) depends on the infinite degrees of interaction between the type/level of mold and your health. But you do have the beginnings of mold that you must act against. Cheapest is venting the basement. It is obvious the humidity in your basement (most likely because of wet lake environment) is high. But then, most basements have that musty smell. You can't blame the builders, previous residents, realestate agents, inspectors, the town officials or the central governments since we all agreed socially that we are going to build this way and live this way.

Things you can do for (relatively) healthy living:
1. keep healthy
2. vent the house and esp that basement
3. study your layout based on that lake - ie, does the wind carry that moisture to your house? Is the water table under the basement high?
4. 24/7 de-humidifier, maybe more than one. 
5. as long as you are healthy, do the work yourself. Organic vapor mask, 1 micron shop vac filter, garden sprayer, window fan (2-3 on all basement windows with make up air). You don't have to nuke the basement and the lumber. Just stop the growth and maintain the humidity so mold can't keep growing.
6. if furnace, using 3M filter (I use red filter for relative value) and replace half the time recommended on the package.
7. mold can use/eat anything that was once alive, so it makes sense to either keep them out of the basement or keep the basement relatively dry. 
8. DON'T PANIC!!! Don't run out and pay for the most expensive mold treatment!!! But do go to homedepot today and get the mask, fans, vacuum, sprayer, contractor garbage bags (for things infested already, and large bags are just convenient - btw, bags are for garbage and other valuables can be saved by washing and/or drying them).
If you don't have the time, hire a carpenter.
I've used Sears dehumidifier and worked fine for years. But I recommend dial controls instead of the buttons, although kenmore control circuit board is on the cheaper side.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Agree with carpdad, it's really a question of educating yourself and then feeling comfortable with how far you want to go. Without a serious allergy or something in the house, it's about being practical and doing what helps you sleep at night.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> Maintenance, that is not a minor problem. It is a major issue. Quit acting like the OP situation can just be cleaned up with some Mold/Mildew spray and rags.


I had a mold remediation expert come out to my house last Friday and he said my issue is a 1 out of 10. Where are you getting all your info from? This is about as minor as it gets when it comes to remediation.. no wood needs to be replaced. 

I will write up a DIY so you can see the steps involved.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I appreciate all the replies, you guys rock. I had a very qualified mold remediation expert come out last Friday and he basically told me exactly how to DIY. He said for them to do this would be about $5,000+ but I could DIY for less than half that. 

*DIY MOLD REMEDIATION*:

1) Get 4mill plastic and seal off the door going upstairs. Open the windows and have fans blowing out. Remove all the "throw-away" items and bag up the insulation. 

2) Rent a HEPA wet/dry shop vac and vacuum EVERY part of the basement, especially the mold. 
http://www.rentalmax.com/equipment-detail.html?id=808
$67 / DAY + $12 HEPA Bag + $212 HEPA filter = $291

3) Buy ~ 4 gallons of Micro-Ban and spray the entire basement, especially the wood. Use nylon brushes to brush everything as it's wet (brushing after you spray).
http://www.jondon.com/chemicals/microban.html
$155 on amazon

4) Paint ALL the wood with Foster 40-25 Full Defense. This actually kills mold and also prevents it. I need a little over 1,000 square feet of this. 
http://www.jondon.com/foster-full-defense-40-25-fungicidal-protective-coating.html
$255 x 4 = $1,020

5) Get the house ducts cleaned. ~$250-300 (they use Micro-Ban)

6) Rent and run an ozone cleaner for 24-48 hours (leave house and remove pets). This kills any existing germs and purifies the entire house. 
http://www.rentalmax.com/equipment-detail.html?id=844
$67 / DAY

There you have it folks. As you can see the materials are expensive, especially the encapsulating paint but this not only removes the mold, it actively fights it, and also prevents it from coming back on anything I paint.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

carpdad said:


> Things you can do for (relatively) healthy living:
> 
> 5. as long as you are healthy, do the work yourself. Organic vapor mask, 1 micron shop vac filter, *garden sprayer*, window fan (2-3 on all basement windows with make up air). You don't have to nuke the basement and the lumber. Just stop the growth and maintain the humidity so mold can't keep growing.


The mold guy that came out recommended I used a garden sprayer to spray the MicroBan. What's a garden sprayer though? Is this a special spraying device that's different than a regular garden hose? 

Just trying to see what this is because i bought a plastic sprayer but mayeb this garden hose is better.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

*Question:* What size dehumidifier should I get?

I'm looking at Frigidaire dehumidifiers at 50pint or 70pint and not sure if I should get the 70pint or not. 

My basement is a little over 1,000 square feet and it's a 2 story house with a total square footage around 3,000. The basement is at 65% RH.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

cjaustin81 said:


> The mold guy that came out recommended I used a garden sprayer to spray the MicroBan. What's a garden sprayer though? Is this a special spraying device that's different than a regular garden hose?


http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-6925660enh-z8.jpg


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

jeffnc said:


> http://ace.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE3-6925660enh-z8.jpg


Thanks, That clarifies it. I bought this >

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=180301&gclid=CO7t2qKbh8ECFcRAMgodHmAAvw










But I may get one like you posted and return this one since this one doesn't have a "hose" like end.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

That's because that one's tiny and doesn't hold much just 2 quarts  Most garden sprayers with flexible hoses are going to hold in the 1- to 2-gallon range.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You do realize that it is going to cost you more in time & money, than it would just paying a company to come in and do the work for you. You need to contact your Home Owner's Insurance company first. They may cover the costs for the removal.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> *You do realize that it is going to cost you more in time & money, than it would just paying a company to come in and do the work for you.* You need to contact your Home Owner's Insurance company first. They may cover the costs for the removal.


What are you talking about? I stated that the company quoted me $5,000+

He said it would be between $5,000-$8,000 for them to do it. 

If I do it myself it will be around $2,000, saving me thousands of dollars by doing it myself. He explained how they excessively use that expensive paint on the pipes, metal, etc but that I only need to apply it to anything organic (wood).


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> You do realize that it is going to cost you more in time & money, than it would just paying a company to come in and do the work for you. You need to contact your Home Owner's Insurance company first. They may cover the costs for the removal.


I don't think my policy covers mold, I will double check but my deductible is over $3,000.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

My biggest question now is should I encapsulate the wood in the basement after I get rid of the mold?

One company that came out told me I needed to (to prevent it from coming back). Another company said I don't need to use an encapsulating paint and they recommend against it. I then called the manufacturers of Microban and explained my situation and the guy on the phone said I didn't need to encapsulate that wood if I remove the mold and keep the conditions under control.

The product that was referred is Foster 40-25, which dries white. My fear is that this will be a waste of money and when I go to sell the house they will see that I painted all the floor joists in the basement white. 

What are your thoughts? 

I like the idea of a clear encapsulating paint (if I were to use one) but this foster 40-25 only comes in white.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

cjaustin81 said:


> I then called the manufacturers of Microban and explained my situation and the guy on the phone said I didn't need to encapsulate that wood if I remove the mold and keep the conditions under control.


That has to be true, so the only question is, can you keep the conditions under control?


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

jeffnc said:


> That has to be true, so the only question is, can you keep the conditions under control?


That's the million dollar question. I can't really run a dehumidifier or the air until I get the mold remediation so I won't know for sure how low I can get it. I would imagine that I can since I wasn't running any dehumidifiers. 

My upstairs is humid too, it's at ~ 60% today (indoor temp was ~70F). I'm hoping that once I get the dehumidifier running in the basement it will help drop the upstairs.

I would just hate to clean the mold for it to come back. It seems that the encapsulation would help in this case but the problem is it's really pricey and dries white.

I'm really torn since everyone I've had come out has offered a different set of solutions and they all contradict each other. One guy even told me NOT to use Microban while others said it's the industry standard stuff. 

I'm tempted to just clean it up very very good and monitor it and then if needed maybe encapsulate if it ever comes back.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

jeffnc said:


> Technically no one here should tell you you have mold. The only way to be sure is to have it tested. Although common sense and a little knowledge can give you a pretty sure answer.
> 
> Efflorescence can also occur in wood, because wood can wick moisture that contains salts. Efflorescence is a result of salts leaching out, regardless of whether those salts are part of the material (e.g. concrete, mortar) or drawn in through capillary action (e.g. wood).
> 
> ...


You're only arguing semantics of the word "occur" here, Jeff. Perhaps I should have used the word "originate", would that make you more comfortable? Of course, it can wick into wood in direct contact with the masonry in which it "occurs", but I will concede that it can "occur" in wood in one particular circumstance with which I have come to be quite familiar over the last ten years: salt water flooding, storm surge. 

The photos provided by the OP here very clearly tell the story.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ratherbefishin' said:


> You're only arguing semantics of the word "occur" here, Jeff.


???



ratherbefishin' said:


> Perhaps I should have used the word "originate", would that make you more comfortable?


Uh, no, then you'd be playing with words to obfuscate. The point of this forum is to figure out the answers, so don't get so uptight about it.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

jeffnc said:


> ???
> 
> 
> 
> Uh, no, then you'd be playing with words to obfuscate. The point of this forum is to figure out the answers, so don't get so uptight about it.


Jeff, I think his point was that based on the pics it's obvious it's mold. Since there's no masonry or concrete immediately next to the wood in my pics, that rules out Efflorescence. 

"Efflorescence will only occur on concrete, brick or other masonry structures. If you find a white mold like substance on sheetrock or wood, you can certainly rule out efflorescence. Another indication, though imperfect, is the presence of a mold smell. Efflorescence is odorless, while mold growth often produces a musty odor. "

source > http://www.environix.com/research-articles/white-mold-growth-in-your-home/

There's absolutely no doubt it's white mold.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

cjaustin81 said:


> "Efflorescence will only occur on concrete, brick or other masonry structures. If you find a white mold like substance on sheetrock or wood, you can certainly rule out efflorescence.


As my link showed, that is false. While it's probably mold, the link I gave showed how to determine if it's efflorescence on wood.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

jeffnc said:


> ???
> 
> 
> 
> Uh, no, then you'd be playing with words to obfuscate. The point of this forum is to figure out the answers, so don't get so uptight about it.


Uptight, me? Hardly, methinks you're projecting, my friend. How does clarification of terminology equate to obfuscation in your mind? Relax, jeff, have a beer.:laughing:


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

After 33+ hrs within 4 days (last weekend through Monday), every inch of the basement is now vacuumed w a HEPA vac (which I rented). 

Next step will be to disinfect and get the ducts/furnace cleaned out. 

I don't know if I spent too much time vacuuming, everyone I talked to said to do a thorough job and to get every inch of the basement. I can't imagine anyone else spending this much time though, just moving the step stool ladder every 5 min was enough in itself much less the amount of time I spent. I hope to never have to do this again.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Not sure if I will encapsulate.. I'm thinking I may not need it and it will be overkill.


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## RobertCurry (Oct 20, 2014)

Yeah, they are yellow mold, you should clean the surface first, then use some mold remover. Yellow mold also has various health danger, you should remove it as soon as possible. These type molds grow faster, easily get scattered and inhaled.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

RobertCurry said:


> Yeah, they are yellow mold, you should clean the surface first, then use some mold remover. Yellow mold also has various health danger, you should remove it as soon as possible. These type molds grow faster, easily get scattered and inhaled.


I had a mold guy come out and he said that's the type 
of mold u get from leaving bread out, etc. 

I HEPA vacuumed every inch of the basement, threw all the 
particle board away along w the insulation and sprayed every
inch of the basement w MicroBan. I then put a 70-pint
dehumidifier down there. 

I chose to NOT encapsulate. This way I can closely watch the wood.


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## Paultergeist (Oct 13, 2014)

Just saw this thread.......just to add my two cents:

Mold requires moisture to grow, typically either in the form of liquid water or high humidity. For most mold species, humidity above 60% is (typically) where mold growth can occur. It is unclear to me from my cursory reading through this thread as to what is the source of the moisture that is allowing mold growth?


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Paultergeist said:


> Just saw this thread.......just to add my two cents:
> 
> Mold requires moisture to grow, typically either in the form of liquid water or high humidity. For most mold species, humidity above 60% is (typically) where mold growth can occur. It is unclear to me from my cursory reading through this thread as to what is the source of the moisture that is allowing mold growth?


HUMIDITY. 

I live on a lake and didn't run a dehumidifier or the AC all summer. When I went to work I would leave all the doors and windows closed and the house was getting very humid. (over 70%)

Won't make that mistake again. I now run a 70-pint Frigidaire.


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## emmyshaw (Oct 14, 2014)

cjaustin81 said:


> Thanks. What about the white powder-like stuff on the staircase? Does that look like mold too? (having trouble figuring that one out).


Yes, those are powdery mildew/ molds. Here are a few things you can do to remove it:

• Vacuum the loose spores 
• Clean the areas affected using a cloth dipped in a few squirts of dish washing detergent with water
• Rinse it with a clean water-dampened cloth and dry immediately with a fan or hair dryer
• Or wipe the area with mineral spirits
• Then apply a thin coat of paste wax or protective wood coat to restore the shine and protect the wood finish.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

emmyshaw said:


> Yes, those are powdery mildew/ molds. Here are a few things you can do to remove it:
> 
> • Vacuum the loose spores
> • Clean the areas affected using a cloth dipped in a few squirts of dish washing detergent with water
> ...


That's *NOT* a proper way to do a mold remediation. 

1) You cannot just use a vacuum, it _has_ to be a HEPA vacuum with a HEPA filter. Otherwise you would be blowing mold spores throughout the house. 

2) Washing detergent is not an EPA registered product to kill mold. Nor will it remove mold. You need to use a product that will kill the mold specifically and it _should_ be EPA certified. 

3) You need to be very careful with any type of wood coatings after the remediation. I would only use an EPA product with antimicrobial and a fungicide.

* to add to this:*

- you need to contain the environment using plastic sheeting at the entrance to the basement. 
- you need to wear an N95 (I recommend P100) filtered face mask.
- you need to remove all contaminated throwaways by bagging them up 2x and using duct tape to secure them shut. 
- you need to vacuum and spray every piece of wood in the basement with an antimicrobial/fungicide (I used Microban). 
- you need to have the furnace and air ducts cleaned during this process or immediately after.
- you may remove insulation and re-insulate (that's what I'm doing).
- after you spray your mold removal product, use nylon brushes to scrub all the wood as you go along. 
- wash your clothes immediately after your done cleaning for the day and shower. Also close off the contaminated area.

I spent 35 hours vacuuming and 10 hours spraying/brushing. (that was for a 1,050 sq/ft basement)


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## emmyshaw (Oct 14, 2014)

cjaustin81 said:


> That's *NOT* a proper way to do a mold remediation.
> 
> 1) You cannot just use a vacuum, it _has_ to be a HEPA vacuum with a HEPA filter. Otherwise you would be blowing mold spores throughout the house.
> 
> ...




Hi cjaustin81! Yeah, I figured I should have given the complete details. I was in a hurry so I just typed everything popped out of my head, forgetting some important details. My bad. Thanks anyway.


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