# Weathermaker 9200 Ignitor fails to light



## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

You should get 120 volts at the igniter when it is trying for ignition. Sounds like the board is bad. You can test the continuity of the igniter. Should be between 50-85 ohms.


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

the Inducer Draft motor strat is the stats call for heat,the air going thru the burner section should be making the air pressure switch(silver round about 4" in diamete with 2 rubber orange tubes on it and a pair of low voltage wires also.these are the 2 wires that need to close to tell the ignition board to start the sequence for the burner section.TO TEST ONLY remove the 2 wires off the air proof switch and put them together(paper clip stripped wire and restart the furnace..if the ignitor sparks its the air proof...if it doesdn't its the board again for testing only do you jump this controller that tells the board air is being supplied by the ID motor


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## Atomic (Mar 14, 2010)

I checked for 120 volts on the connectors which directly attach to the ignitor (off of the control board) and got 118-120 volts each time it tried to light. But when I checked for ohms on the other end of the connector (the igniter side) it gave an open reading, no ohns, no continuity. So I am hopeful that the control board is good (because it provites the expected volts) and that it is just the igniter which is bad since no coninuity would mean a "crack."Now where to find a reasonablly priced igniter on a sunday evening.  Is this something I could pick up at grainger tomorrow, or do I have to order from a carrier dealer? 

Thanks for the help folks!


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Not sure. It is however a huge pain in the arze to replace if your venting goes out the right side of the furnace. _*VERY*_ easy to crack/break the new igniter as it is held in place with a spring clip. If you damage the red gasket for it then you can have ignition problems. I would recommend you get a Carrier tech to replace it. I have replaced dozens of them and hated every one.


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## A2Mich (Mar 22, 2010)

So, were you able to get your ignitor replaced? If you buy one at a hardware store, they will usually just have lead wires and some ceramic wire nuts in the package, where you have to cut off and reuse the old plug. The OEM Norton igntiors LH33ZS004 have the Carrier molex plug on them. The easy way to change them is to NOT remove the entire spring clip from the burner box, but to GENTLY pry open the spring clips on the bottom that actually hold the ignitor in place, pull the old ignitor out while holding the clip assembly in place, install the new one. And if it's a 40 or 60K BTU furnace.....good luck.....those aren't easy ANYWAY you do it.


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