# Tub installation drain misalign with drain



## BoxAlarm (Apr 22, 2011)

Plus a few more...


----------



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

It looks like greenboard or tile backer that you have going down behind the tub. It should not be there, remove it so the tub will slide back the extra 1/2" you need.


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Heres a couple suggestions-
1. Use a 22^ elbow right below the tub overflow to align it with the hole (won't work if you're using a trip lever drain)
2. Raise the tub valve 4-6" and offset the copper supplies using 45's

Didn't you have another post about your tub waste? How are you attaching it to the 1.5" nipple?


----------



## BoxAlarm (Apr 22, 2011)

Pictures attached of how I will attempt to manag marrying the PVC drain assembly to the cast iron drain and steel nipple. Going to use a female adapter, and it'll screw right onto the steel nipple. I plan on using some pipe to seal it for good measure. 

The reason it's misaligned is what the prior poster (RJ) sorta pointed out. I replaced the window, and firring strips already (see pictured with this reply post). That's 1" foam board covering a brick/block exterior wall, (figured it's better to have some insulation rather than none!). It's in plane with the firring strips, and both of those will cause the window + future tiles to all be in plane with each other. However, it ended up pushing my tub about about 1/2", causing the misalignment you see pictured above. If I just "shave off" the foam+strips, it'll sink the tub behind the plane of the future-tiled wall, which I see being problematic?

This tub is also a hair taller, which I'm insisting on because I'm rather tall myself. This pushed the tub up towards the 3 handles and the faucet. Thus I'm considering re-structuring the water pipes to align everything to the new tub, to raise the handles and faucet. Perhaps switch from a the old 2-knob mixer + diverter knob, to a single-arm-turn handle with another shower diverter system while I'm at it... Problem is I'm brand new to this all and it seems like a lot of work. Not unwilling to try tho!


----------



## BoxAlarm (Apr 22, 2011)

Sorry, pictures aren't exactly in chronological order...

Pictures here of the new PVC drain assembly interface with the old cast iron drain with steel nipple.


----------



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

I just looked at your pictures again and you need to replace the valve and spout. With the new tub, the spout is below the flood level of the tub and is a code violation. 
Also it looks bad. Also it doesn't make a lot of sense to close an old valve up in a new tiled wall.

As to the trap alignment issue, I would cut out the old steel trap and install a new Schedule 40 PVC trap. A cement joint trap not a slip joint.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

TheEplumber said:


> Heres a couple suggestions-
> 1. Use a 22^ elbow right below the tub overflow to align it with the hole (won't work if you're using a trip lever drain)
> 2. Raise the tub valve 4-6" and offset the copper supplies using 45's
> 
> Didn't you have another post about your tub waste? How are you attaching it to the 1.5" nipple?



Quality advice---Mike----


----------



## BoxAlarm (Apr 22, 2011)

Planning on removing faucet and controls, centering and moving them higher. This should fix most of the problems above the tub. Never sweated a joint before, I guess this'll be good practice!

Ill just have to put a bend in the drain assembly to align the tub drains with the waste nipple.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The pipe headed to the drain in the tub doesn't need a 'bend' just aim the line on an angle--you are fine.

The pipe going up to the over flow hole is the one that needs to be shifted a bit using that 22 1/2 elbow,

---Mike---


----------



## BoxAlarm (Apr 22, 2011)

That I plan on doing without too much difficulty. It's the shower control assembly which will drive me nuts!


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Sweating copper is not to difficult---You will be fine.

A couple of tips---use MAP gas--hotter than propane,more even heating---however,with that little 1/2 inch pipe the propane will be fine.

Don't over heat the pipe---heat one side -add solder from the other--when the solder flows it's hot enough.

If you need threaded fittings (for a new valve) solder the fitting onto the pipe first---cool completely--then dope and tape---install into valve---when soldering near the threaded fitting keep the connection cool by wrapping the connection with a wet rag.

If you are soldering pipe into the valve body----remove the plastic valve cartridge first or you might cook the guts and spoil them.

Ask questions----Oaty Easy flow is a nice solder---flux in the red tin is the stuff---Mike----


----------

