# Ac troubleshooting



## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

People,

Honda civic 2001 EX, rebuilt compressor in 2012. But now having cold air troubles so I put on my guages and I first had what appeared to be low gas (20-25 psi low, high about 150, car running), so I added a can. Then compressor started cycling 2 seconds on, 2 seconds off. When comp cycled on one of the on/off (couldnt tell) the car shaked noticeably, then stopped shaking when other cycle, then shaking again, on and on. 

I shut the car off. Static psis were high side- 175, Low side a whopping 250++ , maxed out on the guage! Then waited 5 minutes, started car, and with ac on high, no change at all in psi's, and no cycling at all- like a dead comp. Also, aluminum low side line which is usually cold to touch was very warm. 

Think I got a dead comp? 
Thanks,People.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Hard to tell. You put in to much and/or the comp took a dump. I never put on reman comp as they always take a dump and leave me holding the bag. your system takes 1.15 lbs or 18.4 ozs. 1 can is 12 ozs so you need to take some out. The best way is to recover all the freon and then weigh it as you install it back into the system after you vacuum it down.:vs_cool:


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## Justin_99 (Jan 23, 2017)

What is "cold air trouble"????

That would sound like the air coming out is too cold????


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Justin_99 said:


> What is "cold air trouble"????
> 
> That would sound like the air coming out is too cold????


I meant to say no cold air. I admit- confusing.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Brainbucket said:


> Hard to tell. You put in to much and/or the comp took a dump. I never put on reman comp as they always take a dump and leave me holding the bag. your system takes 1.15 lbs or 18.4 ozs. 1 can is 12 ozs so you need to take some out. The best way is to recover all the freon and then weigh it as you install it back into the system after you vacuum it down.:vs_cool:


Thanks, Brain. So, say I added a can too much- can I remove a can's worth and try it out? In theory should work, right? I got 5 years for a reman at $50, so Im not sad. But getting new now if it's shot as prices have come down muchly.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Also, can a clutch turn easily even on a dead comp?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

papereater said:


> Also, can a clutch turn easily even on a dead comp?


Yep. That's not a good way to test. All that does is making sure it's not locked up. If the pressures are still to high, then I would say it's trying to work but too much freon will make high pressure. Bleed it out as you are running engine at 1500 rpms until low side is around 30 psi. do it slowly so the system can stabilize.:vs_cool:


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

makes sense, Brain. I will do that this weekend. Thanks !!


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Just charged up the car with the EXACT weight of gas and low psi registered a weird 10-12 psi. What the heck?? No comp activity. Now Im suspecting the relay. Would you? Gonna do more checks today......


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

10 to 12 psi is too low to make the LP switch and activate the clutch. I can't tell you why it is that low, however if you have the correct amount installed.




papereater said:


> Just charged up the car with the EXACT weight of gas and low psi registered a weird 10-12 psi. What the heck?? No comp activity. Now Im suspecting the relay. Would you? Gonna do more checks today......


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Thanks, raylo. I added a can and BOOM- I got cold ac! Drove it for a few miles and it works great! man, I was scared for a while. Sometimes youi just have to be patient.....


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

papereater said:


> Thanks, raylo. I added a can and BOOM- I got cold ac! Drove it for a few miles and it works great! man, I was scared for a while. Sometimes youi just have to be patient.....


WEll, I finally figured it all out, people. problem came back a few days ago- no cold ac. What the heck was goings on, one would say? 

At one point I registered ZERO psi on low side, while comp was turning/on. High side was 170 or so. Something had to be blocking the expansiion valve!! 

I tore the cab apart and ripped out the evaporator, and right then and there I saw beads of desicant clogging the lower port! Yahoo, I got it!! 

So, I figured the drier blew up, spewed beads all down the high psi line and clogged the posrt. maybe intermittently it worked (cold ac) when the beads maybe settled "back" the when they migrated closer to the port they blocked the refrigerant from entering.

Anyway, cleaning out the high psi line from the drier to the exp valve. But can I add ester oil to a pag system? And how much would you pour into the drier and the evap?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Why would you want to add ester oil to a PAG system? Use only the oil specified for your system/vehicle. Since you seem to have debris in the system it would probably be a good idea to do a full system flush before vacuuming and recharging.



papereater said:


> Anyway, cleaning out the high psi line from the drier to the exp valve. But can I add ester oil to a pag system? And how much would you pour into the drier and the evap?


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

raylo32 said:


> Why would you want to add ester oil to a PAG system? Use only the oil specified for your system/vehicle. Since you seem to have debris in the system it would probably be a good idea to do a full system flush before vacuuming and recharging.


Well I have ester on hand, and ester doesnt absorb moisture like pag.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

R-134 will not pick up ester or mineral oil that is made for R-12. R-134 will only work with pag. Blow the system out with compressed air. If you flush it, you won't get all the flush out and it hurts compressors. Been there, done that.:vs_cool:


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Brainbucket said:


> R-134 will not pick up ester or mineral oil that is made for R-12. R-134 will only work with pag. Blow the system out with compressed air. If you flush it, you won't get all the flush out and it hurts compressors. Been there, done that.:vs_cool:


Good tip, Brain, especially since Im still planning how to flush out/clean out/purge out. So you say that all the solvents advertised on the market should be avoided? If so, makes it easier to just blow out. Would you be 100% confident that simple compressed air blow out will purge out all my beads?

I will use pag 46, although I disagree that ester is not compatable with r134a. Ester is compatable with all refrigerants. Unlike the others. Much data out there to support that. If ester will not work with r134a with what refrigerant will it work??


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

We weighed a condenser before we flushed it. Flushed it and blew it out with air. It was 2 oz heavier. You can't get all the flush out and it destroys compressors. Blow out with air and you should be fine. Honda's driers are on the high side so blow out the high side up to the expansion valve. I highly doubt that those little balls got past the expansion valve. But since you have the evap out, blow it too and see what comes out. Proly nothing but oil. I was wrong about ester oil. Ester oil is compatible but it sucks. It's like an oil that works with everything but it has blown more compressors than when I use the right weight of pag oil. You car takes pag oil 46.:vs_cool:


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Thanks, brain. Im not botthering with the condenser. Im blowing out the high psi line to the exp valve. i agree, blow out the evap with just air, maybe both ways. Dang O rings- why do the rings in kits never fit perfectly?? Tempted to reuse the old ones- still "look good/feel good".


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