# Anyone have experience with the new 2015 AFCI/GFCI requirement and Samsung fridges?



## micromind (Mar 9, 2008)

An AFCI is advertised to recognize the characteristics of an electrical arc and trip when one is sensed. 

While circuitry presently exists that will indeed 'see' an electrical arc, it will not fit in a basic circuit breaker. The ones I work with are 19" wide, 6" high and 15"deep. They cost around $3500 and will indeed trip a breaker on an arc. They'll even tell you how far away the arc was.

So here's what the manufacturers did; a basic 20 amp breaker has 2 trip units, magnetic (instantaneous overload) and thermal (long term overload). The magnetic is set to trip somewhere around 120 - 200 amps. It's this high because the starting current of larger motors (like vacuums and power tools) is pretty high. usually 6 - 10 X the running current. 

The thermal trip unit is for long term overloads, like 2 heaters (about 25 amps) plugged into the same circuit. 

An AFCI has the same thermal trip unit as the basic breaker, but it has 2 modifications. One is the addition of a ground fault trip unit that's set at about 30 milliamps. The reasoning here is that some electrical arcs will involve arcing to ground. 

The other is to lower the magnetic trip setting to about 75 amps. This is because your average everyday electrical arc on a 120 volt circuit will result in somewhere around 100 amps. This will cause the AFCI to trip but not the basic breaker. 

Unfortunately, some appliances will draw more than 75 amps to start. Further, some appliances (usually large motors) can trick the ground fault circuitry into thinking a ground fault exists when the actual reality is that there is none. 

When I'm faced with a situation such as yours, the first thing I'll do is isolate the appliance from ground. The easiest way is to use one of those 3 prong adapters that is intended to plug in to a 2 prong outlet. make sure the ground tab on the adapter is not in contact with anything that's grounded, and you'll need to use a receptacle that is fed from a basic breaker, not an AFCI or a GFI. 

If the appliance works this way, then there is either an actual ground fault or the layout of the electrical system, appliance or even the alignment of the stars (lol) is causing the AFCI to think there's a ground fault when there actually isn't. Don't touch any metal part of the appliance during this test. 

Next, using the above mentioned adapter, plug the appliance into a receptacle supplied by an AFCI. If it trips, then connect a clamp-on ammeter that can record peak current and using a receptacle supplied by a basic breaker, see what the surge current is. if it's over 65 or so, then the appliance will never work with an AFCI. 

Rob


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## billtech (Jul 18, 2015)

"When I'm faced with a situation such as yours, the first thing I'll do is isolate the appliance from ground. The easiest way is to use one of those 3 prong adapters that is intended to plug in to a 2 prong outlet. make sure the ground tab on the adapter is not in contact with anything that's grounded, and you'll need to use a receptacle that is fed from a basic breaker, not an AFCI or a GFI. "

I am not sure what advantage this provides, at least for initial testing. 

The first thing I would do is plug the appliance into a GFCI outlet - assuming one is available, and see if the GFCI trips. If not, it may be that the AFCI is defective. Or, as stated, the appliance simply won't work with AFCI outlets.

If it still trips with a GFCI, then there is a possibility that the appliance is defective. To further reduce possibilities, try an outlet protected by a regular breaker.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

LadyGC said:


> We started a project 1/2/15, so we're following 2015 NEC.


First off, there is no 2015 NEC. It's 2014. And even though you started a project on 1/2/15 dos NOT mean you need to follow a code dated 2015. You follow the code in place at the time of pulling the permit or doing the job.
Are you even under the 2014 NEC? What is your state?


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

*2014 code/EMIs/*

SpeedyPetey, we are in fact following 2014 codes since we started our project 1/2/15. (Just now figuring out that 2014 codes went into effect 1/1/15.) I'm not a GC, just a homeowner who feels like a GC having to micromanage our contractor...

A question that really might change things... *what is the actual wording in the NEC for refrigerators??? Our fridge is on a dedicated 20amp circuit, nothing else on the circuit. Does it need to be on an AFCI/GFCI breaker? Our contractor said the electrician said it's required by code. *

From what I'm able to find online (very hard to find), I'm wondering if it's not required... I found... "The 2014 NEC added dishwashers to that category requiring GFCI/AFCI, and all outlets with 8 feet of sinks or basins or such according to in one place in the codes, ALL outlets in kitchens and baths and unfinished spaces and garages and pool/sauna/hot tub and laundry areas in another place, but in a third place exempts fixed location (non-countertop) kitchen and laundry room appliances that are on a dedicated circuit.

The consensus seems to be building, in the professional builders/trade blogs and state code amendments, that EVERY outlet in a kitchen or bath that COULD be used by a countertop appliance, dishwasher, or garbage disposal must be GFCI (or AFCI) protected, but washing machines, dryers, freezers, reefers, and fans/hoods that have a DEDICATED circuit that cannot be used by a countertop appliance do not need to be, though they do have to be 3-prong plugs with grounded outlets... "

And if there's something about EMIs in the new refrigerators that will cause it to trip... Any inductive load when switched off, can produce electromagnetic interference (EMI). This interference can, and often does, trip GFCI devices. Most vapor compression refrigerators have a few inductive loads, any of which could cause the trip.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Required

Just make sure 2014 is adopted. If not and your on 11 you could change it. But. I doubt it.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Think of gfci and afci as to different things which they are. 
The lighting and receptacle outlets on certain "circuits" need to be afci protected but gfci are required at certain receptacle outlets


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

ritelec, I'm confused. 

Are you saying 2014 might not even be adopted? I thought I read 2014 codes started 1/1/15. 

And are you saying the AFCI/GFCI breaker is required? Is there an exception in the code that says " exempts fixed location (non-countertop) kitchen and laundry room appliances that are on a dedicated circuit."? 

IF AFCI and GFCI are required... we have a combo AFCI/GFCI breaker on it. My father-in-law thinks we might be be able to do separate AFCI and GFCI breakers and that it might work better? 

I'm not an electrician, just a mom trying to get our fridge to work, one of the last things as part of our kitchen renovation... Help!


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

ritelec, I'm talking about just our refrigerator in the kitchen. I know garage fridges are different and other outlets are different.

For our kitchen refrigerator, it's on a dedicated circuit and it's 20 amp. It's currently AFCI/GFCI, but does it not need to be AFCI/GFCI? Still a dedicated 20 amp circuit though... no other outlets are on the circuit.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

I'm in jersey. We are on 2011 as of today. I was going to check for you but don't know where you are 

Check uniform construction code for your state/area.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

LadyGC said:


> ritelec, I'm talking about just our refrigerator in the kitchen. I know garage fridges are different and other outlets are different.
> 
> For our kitchen refrigerator, it's on a dedicated circuit and it's 20 amp. It's currently AFCI/GFCI, but does it not need to be AFCI/GFCI? Still a dedicated 20 amp circuit though... no other outlets are on the circuit.


May only need afci not afci and gfci.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

The NEC does not become effective if it has not been adopted by your state or local government. In my area, we won't use the 2014 code ( with modifications) until 2018.


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

Oh, sorry, didn't know that. We are GA. Do you know what we follow? 

I do remember the electrician saying to the contractor "are you following 2014 or 2015?"


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

LadyGC said:


> I do remember the electrician saying to the contractor "are you following 2014 or 2015?"


Seriously?? The electrician should know what codes he is under. It's NOT for the GC to tell him. 

In Ga you are correct, as of 1/1/15 you are under the 2014 NEC.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

sorry

http://www.dca.state.ga.us/development/constructioncodes/programs/codes2.asp


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

And yes, unfortunately under the 2014 NEC the refer does need AFCI protection.


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

Speedy, he was asking the contractor if our project was under 2014 or 2015... he was first here in Jan and wasn't sure if we signed our contract 2014 or 2015...


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Interesting how electricity is different in one state than the other, how plugged in refrigerators are different in one state than the other…

Interesting how if you installed the exact same fridge on the exact same circuit last year…………..and all the years leading up to this year, as the millions of others not on afci circuits, you could have put it on a regular breaker…

but.. because the white collars in your state say you can't, I guess you can't. :wink:


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## micromind (Mar 9, 2008)

LadyGC said:


> Speedy, he was asking the contractor if our project was under 2014 or 2015... he was first here in Jan and wasn't sure if we signed our contract 2014 or 2015...


It isn't when the contract was signed, it's the day the electrical permit was issued.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

LadyGC said:


> Speedy, he was asking the contractor if our project was under 2014 or 2015... he was first here in Jan and wasn't sure if we signed our contract 2014 or 2015...


Ah, sorry. 
Yes, VERY good point to make. :thumbsup:


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

micromind said:


> It isn't when the contract was signed, it's the day the electrical permit was issued.


Actually, it depends on the area. If I start a job in 2014 under a building permit issued in 2014, but get my rough-in inspection done in 2015, the inspection is based on the codes in place in 2014.


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## micromind (Mar 9, 2008)

Speedy Petey said:


> Actually, it depends on the area. If I start a job in 2014 under a building permit issued in 2014, but get my rough-in inspection done in 2015, the inspection is based on the codes in place in 2014.


I guess I wasn't very clear, it's the same around here. 

If the permit was issued while under the 2011 code and the inspections are done while under the 2014, the 2011 is the code used.


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

We started Jan 2015 here in GA, so following 2014 codes. Our contractor talked to the electrician again, said it is required. He is waiting to hear from our city's chief building officer, but said that another county's CBO said "it's a stupid a$$ rule that we have to follow until it is changed and you didn't hear this from me, but the homeowner can have it pass inspection and then have the electrician go back and change it to a regular outlet"... I know it is a one in a million chance, but what if our fridge causes a fire, could the insurance co deny payment if we don't follow code???


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

LadyGC said:


> ... I know it is a one in a million chance, but what if our fridge causes a fire, could the insurance co deny payment if we don't follow code???


I have spoken to several insurance agents that say the only time they can deny a claim in cases like this are if it is done intentionally to cause a fire. 
If that were the case the refer would be the least of your worries.


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## DanS26 (Oct 25, 2012)

hmmmmmmm.......do I replace a $30 AFCI breaker or do I replace a $3,000 refrigerator.......tough choice.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

Try this, temporarily put in a GFCI breaker. This will tell you if its a ground fault or arc fault. If the GFCI trips you have a ground fault.


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

Jumpstart, if we run it on just a GFCI and it trips, then maybe it's good to be on an AFCI? I'll see what GFCIs we might have left...we put on an addition and gutted the kitchen, so quite a bit got changed out to the combo AFCI/GFCIs  Tonight we are seeing how it does on a regular breaker w/ no AFCI or GFCI. Assuming it won't trip, so maybe tomorrow we'll try just GFCI


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

DanS26, I don't mind replacing a breaker if I know the fridge is safe and that it is safe to just go ahead and change it back to a regular breaker after the inspection. (My fear was that something major was wrong with this fridge if it couldn't work by code...but sounds like there might be lots of fridge's having problems being put in new and renovated houses this year


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

LadyGC said:


> Jumpstart, if we run it on just a GFCI and it trips, then maybe it's good to be on an AFCI? I'll see what GFCIs we might have left...we put on an addition and gutted the kitchen, so quite a bit got changed out to the combo AFCI/GFCIs  Tonight we are seeing how it does on a regular breaker w/ no AFCI or GFCI. Assuming it won't trip, so maybe tomorrow we'll try just GFCI



The GFCI will narrow it down between a ground fault and an arc fault signature. If the GFCI trips the fridge is certainly defective. If it does not then that narrows it down to arc signature which may or may not indicate the fridge is faulty. I would keep it on GFCI at least a few days to let the fridge cycle normally. 

I say may or may not because AFCIs have a history of nuisance tripping. In short they are a gimmick that was put into the code before all the bugs could be worked out.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

My city allows you to either use an outlet for the fridge to not be protected by a GFCI, if you are using either a stand alone breaker or the fridge outlet is fed from the Baseboard outlets for Kitche/Dining/Pantry.

Unless you have an inspector walking into your house. They will not know that you do not have an AFCI or GFCI for the fridge.

If it is causing a trip on the breaker. First thing is to make sure that the fridge is not the culprit, by plugging it into a GFCI only outlet. If it stays running, then you know that the problem is not the fridge, but something with the wiring of that outlet the fridge was plugged into, or a crappy breaker.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Plugging it into an outlet that does not have AFCI/GFCI protection is not going to prove anything. All it takes is a very small amount of current leakage to trip the AFCI.

As for appliances going into Flipped or new homes. It does not matter. Unless someone is using some old fridge that was manufactured in the 70's as a Garage fridge.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

The state of GA may have adopted the 2014 NEC, but it is still local adoption city by city or county by county. Your city or county may still be on an earlier version of the NEC. Where are you?


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

I looked and I think our only "GFCI only" remaining breaker is our master tub, but I'll have my contractor or father-in-law verify that tomorrow. (or maybe the electrician can throw a GFCI somewhere tomorrow?) Even some of our other baths outlets have AFCI? (not new...) gregzoll, we are having an inspector here... we put on an addition, so it's permitted with the city, which is following NEC 2014 exactly (and doesn't see any kind of exception...)


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

InPhase277, we are in Roswell, GA and I was told "Georgia has amended away from the electrical chapters of the IRC in favor of the NEC. (They have also done that with the Plumbing Code). The 2014 NEC is our current code and here is what it says about domestic outlets: Article 210.12(A) Dwelling Units. All 120-volt, single-phase, 15 and 20 ampre branch circuits supplying outlets or devices installed in dwelling unit kitchens, family rooms, dining rooms, living rooms, parlors, libraries, dens, bedrooms, sumrooms, recreation rooms, closets, hallways, laundry area or similar rooms or areas shall be protected by a listed arc-fault circuit interrupter…
GFCI outlets are only required if placed over a counter top or within 6’ of a sink. That applies to ANY outlet, duplex or single.

I would have the electrician check the breaker." 

Breakers have been checked and we tried it on a different AFCI/GFCI breaker and it tripped there too. I asked him about the exception I read about and he said there are no exceptions...


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The only person making money off of this is the Electrician, or where you are getting those breakers from.

Unless the inspector can bring a copy of City/County code that specifies that all circuits have to be protected with AFCI or combo AFCI/GFCI breakers, you will never get it back.

My city is sticking with the 2098 code for AFCI breakers only needed in Bedrooms. Rental units are the ones that would benefit off of AFCI protection.

The NFPA site has the 2014 code cycle available for free. Suggest You take a look at the requirements on this protection. Because it really sounds like you are spending more on something you do not need on all branch circuits.


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## billtech (Jul 18, 2015)

Worse than "do not need". In many instances, AFCI breakers are more of a problem than a help. Sometimes I suspect that the manufacturers of AFCI devices greased some palms of the NFPA to get their devices mandated.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

For what it's worth. From what I understand. The stats show that fires and property damage has been decreased since the introduction of the afci. 

I was hoping they would go as the 8x8 mesh that HAD to go around a pool. But I think they're here to stay. 

Don't know why they would be needed in a kitchen but it doesn't matter. They do. 

Just something else to get used to.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

gregzoll said:


> The only person making money off of this is the Electrician,



How's that? 

It's a breaker you install. Personally I don't do much of a markup. Now how do you mark up a 50 dollar breaker x 10, 20 or more breakers

If anything the electrician is losing money on free call backs to reset the breaker and explaining to the costumer how they have to go out and buy new appliances.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

gregzoll said:


> All it takes is a very small amount of current leakage to trip the AFCI.
> .


Leakage ???


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

How about put in a regular breaker and amp clamp the EGC to see if any current is flowing? Or open the EGC and see if voltage is present. The appliance tech needs to disconnect the electronics and megger the appliance.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> The only person making money off of this is the Electrician, or where you are getting those breakers from.



Many electricians are losing money on AFCIs rather then making money. Every AFCI tripping call is money lost.






> Unless the inspector can bring a copy of City/County code that specifies that all circuits have to be protected with AFCI or combo AFCI/GFCI breakers, you will never get it back.
> 
> My city is sticking with the 2098 code for AFCI breakers only needed in Bedrooms.


If you mean the 2008 code they are required in living rooms, dens, sunrooms and other similar areas... basically everything outside the garage, kitchen, laundry and bathrooms. 






> Rental units are the ones that would benefit off of AFCI protection.


Nothing benefits from an AFCI. They are a total scam. Arc faults not a problem at dwelling voltage levels. If you don't believe me here are just a few recent threads from a pro forum:


http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=170149

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=170069

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=170894

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=170744

http://forums.mikeholt.com/showthread.php?t=170883


Personally if it was not code required I would take that breaker out, smash it with a hammer and install a regular one not looking back. 




> The NFPA site has the 2014 code cycle available for free. Suggest You take a look at the requirements on this protection. Because it really sounds like you are spending more on something you do not need on all branch circuits.


I agree, especially considering AFCIs are about as useful as a gum wrapper.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

Jump-start said:


> I agree, especially considering AFCIs are about as useful as a gum wrapper.


A foil gum wrapper can at least be used to jump a cartridge fuse...:whistling2:


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

InPhase277 said:


> The state of GA may have adopted the 2014 NEC, but it is still local adoption city by city or county by county. Your city or county may still be on an earlier version of the NEC. Where are you?


Sure about that?

I thought once adopted by the state, the locals had to use it.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

InPhase277 said:


> A foil gum wrapper can at least be used to jump a cartridge fuse...:whistling2:



:laughing: Thats true, and Im sure it would do just as a good job of mitigating an arc fault, if not better.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

jbfan said:


> Sure about that?
> 
> I thought once adopted by the state, the locals had to use it.


I don't know for sure anymore. I know it's true in Alabama.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ritelec said:


> Leakage ???


Yes on the Combo devices. With just the AFCI, it will trip if the appliance or device is leaking current between the hot and ground, which makes it think that there is a possible condition, which could cause a issue.

As for less fires because of AFCI's being installed. That is totally hearsay. There has been no evidence that insurance companies are able to prove that once AFCI's are installed, it stops stupid renters from pulling stupid stunts.

When I was talking to our Insurance agent about them. He stated that State Farm looks at them as just insurance and that is it. They do not look at them as a way to increase value.

The biggest culprit of fires, is people throwing clothes on top of portable heaters, placing candles where they can catch items on fire. The other issue is leaving stuff on the stove top, while the burner is on, then not attending to it.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> Yes on the Combo devices. With just the AFCI, it will trip if the appliance or device is leaking current between the hot and ground, which makes it think that there is a possible condition, which could cause a issue.


True, most AFCI have 30/50ma GFP, but the sad part is manufacturers are beginning to take that out of some AFCIs which makes what few good they did worthless. 




> As for less fires because of AFCI's being installed. That is totally hearsay. There has been no evidence that insurance companies are able to prove that once AFCI's are installed, it stops stupid renters from pulling stupid stunts.
> 
> When I was talking to our Insurance agent about them. He stated that State Farm looks at them as just insurance and that is it. They do not look at them as a way to increase value.
> 
> The biggest culprit of fires, is people throwing clothes on top of portable heaters, placing candles where they can catch items on fire. The other issue is leaving stuff on the stove top, while the burner is on, then not attending to it.


I agree. Even insurance companies aren't buying it. And truth be the majority of fires are from high resistance connections and like you say, from space heaters or other misused consumer goods. Both of which have nothing to do with arcing.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Okay. Thanks for the education. There are endless amounts of literature on ARCfault tripping because if arcs. But since you say it's from leakage and your state farm agent says they are basically worthless now I know the truth. 

Thanks again.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

I agree. Space heaters are on top of the list for fire causes. 

Hate them. Even installed electric baseboard. EVIL.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ritelec said:


> I agree. Space heaters are on top of the list for fire causes.
> 
> Hate them. Even installed electric baseboard. EVIL.


Along with food on the stove left unattended, or people using grills or Turkey fryers next to their house.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ritelec said:


> Okay. Thanks for the education. There are endless amounts of literature on ARCfault tripping because if arcs. But since you say it's from leakage and your state farm agent says they are basically worthless now I know the truth.
> 
> Thanks again.


The literature is just marketing materials. I am talking about real statistics from the State Fire Marshall's offices. Majority of the issues with fires come from Lightning strikes or high voltage lines touching lower voltage drops to buildings.

The sad thing as you know, is when home owners do not properly install these devices and either leave the insulation cut too far back, or have nicked the insulation on the wires, while trying to cut the outer jacket off (ie the stupid UF jacket that there is no way out there for anyone to carefully cut through, without making a nick in the wire insulation.).

The best part is when you have contractors on site using battered extension cords, that have seen better days, using them. It cost me two days to fix electrical issues that they caused when our house was resided.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

gregzoll said:


> (ie the stupid UF jacket that there is no way out there for anyone to carefully cut through, without making a nick in the wire insulation.).



Remind me to explain or show you the trick someday. :- )


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

The problem with AFCIs is that frequently they can not distinguish current ripples associated with normal appliances from dangerous arcing. 

If the GFCI does not trip the fridge my bet is on an inverter driven compressor. The sine wave distortion could actually be tripping the AFCI.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ritelec said:


> Remind me to explain or show you the trick someday. :- )


If no one is around and I am not rushed, I can do it. Just harder these days, since my hands are starting to shake more, because of my back issues and medication. I usually just slice down the middle, then pull out the ground, so that I can then to the Hot & Neutral.

My wife says that I am taking too long these days, when it comes to stuff that I could do in half of the time. I really wish that my son would just learn how to do this stuff, to help me around the house.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

I wrote you a pm but they don't work. 

No razor 

Peel it like a banana

Optional draw a line across where you want to strip to 


But basically. Looking at it flat. Squeeze the top with pliers as if you wanted to make the top round 
Snip angularly to expose alittle of the wires from sheath. ( one blk side one on wht side)

Grab a wht or blk "conductor" with pliers. Grab the other two "and" sheath with channel locks or pliers. 
Peel single conductor down to line. 

Grab ground and sheath peel other "conductor" down to line. 

Grab copper ground "conductor" with pliers grab left over sheath channel locks. Peel copper ground down to line. 

Cut away sheath at line. 

Sort of the same for 3wire. 

Tuff to explain. Easier to show.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

gregzoll said:


> As for less fires because of AFCI's being installed. That is totally hearsay.


yep believe nothing of what you read and half of what you see. 

http://www.ecmag.com/section/your-b...ng-technologies-contributing-drop-residential

http://www.afcisafety.org/printnews.html


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

ECM is just a big advertisement for the manufacturers. The NFPA publishes the code. It doesn't surprise me they push for more AFCIs. I believe that if electricians megger ed everything after the rough and again before energizing, we'd all be better off. Oh and get rid of stab wired devices.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

InPhase277 said:


> ECM is just a big advertisement for the manufacturers. The NFPA publishes the code. It doesn't surprise me they push for more AFCIs. I believe that if electricians megger ed everything after the rough and again before energizing, we'd all be better off. Oh and get rid of stab wired devices.



My thoughts exactly! :yes:


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## LadyGC (Jul 18, 2015)

We were leaning towards just changing out the breaker, but then realized "shouldn't Samsung make a fridge that will pass code?" Our worry is... what happens when someone sells a house? (not that we plan to, but you never know...) Do you then have to change the breaker back so you're "in code" for when the buyer gets it inspected? Then you need to run around finding a fridge that will work on it?


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