# installing flashing around leaking chimmney made of hardy board



## CCCo. (Oct 10, 2009)

*Indianapolis Remodeling Contractor - Roofing, Flashing Question*

Step flashing is used in many different applications, not just brick. 

The step flashing should be stepped in with each shingle and run back up behind the hardie board. In such a manner that everything is water lapped correctly. If installed correctly water cannot leak in.

My guess is since they don't want to remove (lift) any shingles, or fight with removing siding, and/ or tucking it behind that they just fed you the line about step being only for brick. 

I am guessing they will install some sort of fabricated counter flashing to the outside of the chimney, run it down, and out onto the roof deck. Seal around the top edge, and run like heck.

Sounds like they messed it up good, and aren't really roofers IMO. 
Where else did they cut corners, is what I would be concerned with. :yes: James


*Crow Contracting Company - - - www.crowcontractingco.com - - - www.indianaremodelingcontractor.com *
*Remodeling Contractor - North Central Indiana, Indianapolis, Noblesville, Carmel, Fishers, Zionsville, Westfield, Lebanon, Whitestown, Brownsburg, Sheridan, Tipton (765) 279-8271*


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## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

A lot of folks call step flashing the counterflashing on a brick chimney, since it is stepped up.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Are the "Hardie Board's" on your chimney placed horizontally or do they slope with the roof? Either way: IMO-the lower run(s) of Hardie Board should be removed, the existing shingles removed, and new flashing installed as CCCo. recommended. Then the shingles replaced (new ones) and the Hardie Board replaced using the same boards back in their orginal positions. As CCCo. stated, if done properly, there will be no leaks as you have eliminated any chance of water intruding into this area. Good Luck, David


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## texasblessedmom (Oct 7, 2009)

Thanks!!! for the info. The boards run horizontal with the roof. Should they also install counterflashing? Our chimney is wide across the back, approximately 5-6 ft. Should they install a cricket or am I asking for trouble having them install anything extra? 
Thanks sooo much for all your help!!!!


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## CCCo. (Oct 10, 2009)

*Roofing Repairs, Leaking Chimney, Flashing, Counterflashing, Water Intrusion*

Counterflashing is never a bad idea, its normal application seals the top of the step flashing, and is an added insurance against water intrusion. 

With that said, in your particular situation the siding will act as counterflashing, if installed the way its been described here. 

If the step flashing is installed correctly, then the answer is no, no additional flashing needed.

I would hire another company all toghether to make the repairs and perform a complete inspection, keep all repairs documented, then file suit to recoupe your losses. 

The cricket is also a very benefical way to direct water around the chimney, and down the roof. Without it, you have a dead valley situation, trapping water, snow, ice, etc....

The original installer would never step foot on my roof again, if it where me. James


*Crow Contracting Company - - - www.crowcontractingco.com - - - www.indianaremodelingcontractor.com *
*Remodeling Contractor - North Central Indiana, Indianapolis, Noblesville, Carmel, Fishers, Zionsville, Westfield, Lebanon, Whitestown, Brownsburg, Sheridan, Tipton (765) 279-8271*


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## texasblessedmom (Oct 7, 2009)

Thanks soooo much for taking the time to answer my questions. It is really helpful to have a knowledgeable outside source. You want to trust people but the fact is you better educate yourself before you have any work done and be there to watch over the job. I have been reading articles and postings on roofing for the few days. I have learned alot in hindsight and now know more about flashing and roofing than I ever wanted to know. KNOWLEDGE IS POWER :thumbup:


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## johnk (May 1, 2007)

The back of the chimney should have at the very least a backpan.This should go up the chimney 6-8" be around 2' wide and extend the sides of the chimney at least 3" on both sides.Hope this makes sense


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Yes Ma'm, knowledge is power, and so are references. In the future, and I bet you now have hind-sight, when facing a large/expensive project such as this-ask for references from your friends and/or neighbors, not the contractor. He will lead you to his brother-in-law or cousin. Not to say all of us do this, but it seems the majority of contractors will not lead you to former customers. I do agree with CCCo. as to having another roofing company, ask around for references this time, to correct the job and document the problems they correct. Unfortunately you will have to take legal action against the first company to recoup your expenses with them. Good Luck, David


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## texasblessedmom (Oct 7, 2009)

James,
I see that you are online and have another question. The owner finally came out yesterday to look at our roof. He admitted his guys messed up and he would get it fixed. I asked him how he planned to install the new flashing. He said he runs a piece of galvanized steel under the shingles and behind the hardi board. I asked him about step flashing the chimney and he said he hasn't had any problems with the other way of flashing and the other would involve more work. Should I insist on step flashing or allow him to do the other. From what I can gather the other seems to be pretty common around here.

Thanks


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## CCCo. (Oct 10, 2009)

texasblessedmom said:


> James,
> I see that you are online and have another question. The owner finally came out yesterday to look at our roof. He admitted his guys messed up and he would get it fixed. I asked him how he planned to install the new flashing. He said he runs a piece of galvanized steel under the shingles and behind the hardi board. I asked him about step flashing the chimney and he said he hasn't had any problems with the other way of flashing and the other would involve more work. Should I insist on step flashing or allow him to do the other. From what I can gather the other seems to be pretty common around here.
> 
> Thanks


 
I see no problem with this, as long as its all water lapped correctly, and is under the shingle, bent, and running up behind the siding. The bottoms of the flashing will also need to kickout onto the roof deck, or into the gutter at the eave.
From that statement it sounds like he knows how to fix it, But is he going to personally get it done? 
Watch them, you probably know more about flashing by now, then them. :laughing:


*Crow Contracting Company - - - www.crowcontractingco.com - - - www.indianaremodelingcontractor.com *
*Remodeling Contractor - North Central Indiana, Indianapolis, Noblesville, Carmel, Fishers, Zionsville, Westfield, Lebanon, Whitestown, Brownsburg, Sheridan, Tipton (765) 279-8271*


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## texasblessedmom (Oct 7, 2009)

Thanks!! I will be right next to them through the whole process.


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## Filbee (Oct 17, 2009)

texasblessedmom said:


> James,
> I see that you are online and have another question. The owner finally came out yesterday to look at our roof. He admitted his guys messed up and he would get it fixed. I asked him how he planned to install the new flashing. He said he runs a piece of galvanized steel under the shingles and behind the hardi board. I asked him about step flashing the chimney and he said he hasn't had any problems with the other way of flashing and the other would involve more work. Should I insist on step flashing or allow him to do the other. From what I can gather the other seems to be pretty common around here.
> 
> Thanks


If I was you, I would call around to reputable remodelers or builders to get the name of a quality roofer in your area. Its hard to cut your losses with the company you have been using, but you're either going to pay for quality flashing now or pay for repairs to your interior and a quality flashing job later. Also, do not use galvanized steel channel flashing anywhere on a shingle roof. That stuff has to be kept painted, especially along its surfaces that are exposed along the bottom of the chimney. Enamel coated aluminum stepped flashings should suffice along the edges; a saddle pan that extends up the back wall of the chimney at least 6 inches and then up the roof surface under the shingles another 18 inches. Then finish the front with and apron flashing that covers the entire first course of shingles directly in front of the chimney. And, as indicated before, make sure that the saddle pan (the pan behind the chimney) extends past the edges of the chimney about 2-3 inches to cover the stepped flashings.


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