# Jobsite table saw or compound sliding miter saw



## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

I have my miter saw on a fold up stand.
I don't have a sliding saw!

I don't see my model around anymore, but it folds up like a hand truck and fits well inside my garage.
I don't have to worry about the cold.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

It all depends on the material you want to work with more. Or the end type of work you want to do. 

A miter saw, sliding, or not, works mostly with dimensional lumber, trim material and the like. 

A table saw works primarily with larger goods, like plywood for example. 

You can rip and cross cut with a table saw. You can only cross cut with a miter saw. And of course do miters. 

I have the table saw that you are looking at. It works wonderful for ripping down sheet goods, or trimming a 1/4" off of a 2x4.

The miter saw I have is the Ridgid 12" sliding compound miter saw. I am currently doing wood floors, trim molding around doors and the floor. And I will be doing window and crown molding later on. 

Spend more money on a blade, you will get better results. 

For cutting down sheet goods, get a good cut off clamping guide for your circ saw. It will help a lot. 

The next tool I plan on getting is a track saw. I used one a couple of times and I am in lust with them.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

When it comes to toys, why should it be 'or'?:biggrin2:
I don't know that model of table saw but good extension wings are really helpful working with larger pieces and a good, even aftermarket, fence is a good investment.


Working in an unheated space sucks, but the variations in humidity can wreak havoc on untreated steel surfaces like table saws.


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

I'm also in NJ. I have a 10 inch Dewalt miter saw. Cold doesn't bother it at all. It sits in my garage. It rides around in the back of my truck. It was sitting outside in that snow squall the other day. No issues. Super handy. Mine doesn't slide, but it does the vast majority of what I need. 

I don't even want a table saw. I guess you need one eventually if you want to build custom cabinets and stuff. But I'd definitely get the miter saw first.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I'd not like being without a table saw after having two for a few decades. But if one or the other of your question you can build a lot of things in a confined space if you; build a saw guide for your 6.5" portable circular saw then use that guide to build a portable miter saw table from a half sheet of cabinet grade plywood that stands on end in the garage for storage.
For cutting sheet goods your saw guide will make safer and better cuts than a table saw unless you have a table saw that requires about 10 percent of your garage area such as a commercial unit.

https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

There is crossover or whatever you want to call it, tasks that can be accomplished by either a table saw or a miter saw. But it's sort of like a wrench versus a socket set; sometimes either one will do the trick, sometimes one has a clear advantage over the other, and other times one or the other will not do the job at all. You mentioned precise cuts, but that's not a deciding factor because either one of them will provide that. Maybe I'm biased because I had a table saw for a lot of years before I had a miter saw, but, in my opinion, a table saw is the centerpiece of a workshop, and I would guess that I use my table saw quite a bit more often than a miter saw. But if you're placing trim in the house, building a deck, etc., the miter saw is clearly preferred. It's something that only you can decide, and I understand space, monetary, or other limitations, but think it through as best you can and I would bet that within a short amount of time you will come up against something where the one you didn't buy is the one that you really need for the task at hand. Whatever you do, don't cheat yourself by trying to stretch the capabilities of either one at the expense of personal safety.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I'm not a pro or anything, but I hate using our table saw so much. Unless you've got a big table workbench thing then it's a pita to cut anything big, even with all the folding out-table stand things it sucks. 

For ply-sheets I'm opting for the circular saw with guide/track method ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PGP96...olid=3PYR9SVGZGAKP&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it ) instead.

Though I do really, really, really want a sliding miter saw w/stand for smaller trim type stuff. I wanna make my own picture frames and shadow boxes so I can do wall art, plus finish carpentry type stuff around the house too. I have a regular miter saw that works great and doesn't take up much space though - if space is at a premium I'd probs stick with the non-sliding version as you can set that on anything, and with a few 2x4 height-spacer blocks on either side, work with even 12 foot sections of trim on the garage floor. (That's how I been doing trim right now.)


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Although a little pricey retail, I have used these tools for many years for jobsite tools. They fold up well and store on the trailer just right. Pawn shops can be your friend.
This is the table saw:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...Portable-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4513/100090444

This is the dual bevel sliding saw:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...er-Saw-with-70-Miter-Capacity-R4210/301463268


Mounted on this gurney:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...w-Stand-with-Mounting-Braces-AC9946/206992161


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

ktownskier said:


> The next tool I plan on getting is a track saw. I used one a couple of times and I am in lust with them.


I made my track saw and it works great. I went to a metal shop and had then bend a 6 inch wide X 100 inch long piece of aluminum with a lip that is bent to a 90 degree. The lip sticks up about 3/8 of an inch. I made a wooden shoe on the bottom of one of my circular saws and cut a slot just so it will fit over the lip of the aluminum rail I had made. I clamp the straight edge to a sheet of plywood and put the saw on the straight edge lip and let er rip.

I also had them make one smaller about 52 or 54 inches long for cross cutting a sheet of plywood. Both of them cost me about $25.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

BigJim said:


> I made my track saw and it works great. I went to a metal shop and had then bend a 6 inch wide X 100 inch long piece of aluminum with a lip that is bent to a 90 degree. The lip sticks up about 3/8 of an inch. I made a wooden shoe on the bottom of one of my circular saws and cut a slot just so it will fit over the lip of the aluminum rail I had made. I clamp the straight edge to a sheet of plywood and put the saw on the straight edge lip and let er rip.
> 
> I also had them make one smaller about 52 or 54 inches long for cross cutting a sheet of plywood. Both of them cost me about $25.




Jim, how thick is the alum? When I think of alum and brake work, I am envisioning the detail wrap for house trim. But surely that would not be thick enough for a saw guide.

I know a lot of people use the track saws. It still takes the time to clamp in order to use. Is there really that much advantage over just clamping on a straight edge and following it with the saw's base?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

There's some nice long straight extruded AL on those old fiberglass garage doors. I have a few pieces of that around from a neighbor's door change out.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Yodaman said:


> Jim, how thick is the alum? When I think of alum and brake work, I am envisioning the detail wrap for house trim. But surely that would not be thick enough for a saw guide.
> 
> I know a lot of people use the track saws. It still takes the time to clamp in order to use. Is there really that much advantage over just clamping on a straight edge and following it with the saw's base?


Yodaman, the aluminum is about 1/8 inch thick, it doesn't bend easily. 

The advantage of this over just a straight edge is sometimes the saw will lead away from the straight edge, especially if the blade of the saw has grazed a nail or something on one side of the blade. It will lead off every time when the saw blade gets dulled on one side. Also, you can stop the saw and go back and cut and not leave a off cut for a lack of a better word, in the saw cerf. Another thing is you don't have to worry about if you are not holding the saw tight to the straight edge.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Yodaman said:


> I know a lot of people use the track saws. It still takes the time to clamp in order to use. Is there really that much advantage over just clamping on a straight edge and following it with the saw's base?


I've not used track saw but with the saw guide the blade to shoe distance is set when the guide is made and never needs calculating again as long as that saw is used with that guide. Just a pencil dot fore and aft, set the guide to those, clamp and cut. The one I made for x 12" wide material doesn't need clamping and I haven't picked up my speed square since I built it.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

Yodaman said:


> Jim, how thick is the alum? When I think of alum and brake work, I am envisioning the detail wrap for house trim. But surely that would not be thick enough for a saw guide.
> 
> I know a lot of people use the track saws. It still takes the time to clamp in order to use. Is there really that much advantage over just clamping on a straight edge and following it with the saw's base?


I have owned and used a few track saws over the years, and have never needed to clamp anything. The tracks have a rubbery strip on the bottom that grips the material surface. After you master the technique, clamping will never be necessary.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

My shop problem is space. If I am working with sheet goods, I will get the yard to cut it in half so I have something manageable to work with. At least we still have yards that will do it.


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## sestivers (Aug 10, 2007)

I've seen those track saws several times on This Old House or Ask T.O.H. and they look amazing (of course they are using one that costs about $800). Can they accurately do things I've traditionally used a table saw for? Such as building drawers (my typical method is to make four sides connected using a Kreg jig and making a dado for the bottom, and attach a face piece to the front). Or do you really need a table saw for that kind of work?


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

I would get the compound sliding miter saw over the table saw. The slider will do everything the table saw can do except large stuff like full sheets of plywood, and you already have a circular you can use for that.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Honestly, anyone doing very much woodworking needs both. 

You are not going to cut a long board off in a table saw very well, and you are not going to rip anything over 10" with a miter saw.
Buy the one tha's on sale, and save for the other.


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## dtbingle (Jul 19, 2017)

Another vote for the sliding miter compound. Very handy for dimensional lumber, cutting miters, etc.

Table saw is great for longer rips, but as you mentioned, to really take advantage of it requires different jigs and extension wings + outfeed support for larger sheets. Eventually you should get both, but I'd go with the sliding miter for now, and use the circular saw + straight edge for long cuts for the time being


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## Deaknh (Mar 24, 2018)

I couldnt work without both. I have a 10 and a 7.25" miter saws and a large ridgid table saw on the wheeled stand in my shop, and a 7.25" portable for job sites. You can buy both saws if cl for cheap money, slap new blades on and your good. You will want and need whichever saw you dont buy.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Radial Arm saw would eliminate a need for portable table saw.


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## Brian Famous (Feb 4, 2019)

Get those worthless cars out of your workshop!!! 🙂


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## keenxxx (May 5, 2018)

Apples and oranges imo. Want to complete the job effectively have both @ your disposal. A miter saw works fine w/ dimensional lumber where a table saw allows you to make non dimensional cuts.


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## bernie963 (Dec 18, 2010)

Best of both choices:. Vintage DeWalt Ras from mid 50's into early 60's. " Mfb, gwi, 1030, etc". Cast iron arms. Stay away from Craftsman Ras. Steep learning curve and may need extensive restoration. Check out Ras forums on web and you tube.

Merry Christmas to all


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

DeWalt 10" miter saw on a Harbor Freight stand for me, and a DeWalt 10" table saw that's also mounted on a Harbor freight miter saw stand.


It's nice the both are on wheels and fold up to stand in the corner out of the way when not in use.


Between those, a circular saw and track, Palm sander, belt sander, Kreg JIg, and biscuit jointer, I'm good for all things.


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## doublerc (Jul 1, 2011)

I can vote for the Compound sliding miter saw. However if you can squeeze a bit more into your budget I'd get this RIDGID model:

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:

RIDGID	15 Amp 10 in. Corded Dual Bevel Sliding Miter Saw with 70° Miter Capacity
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...er-Saw-with-70-Miter-Capacity-R4210/301463268


The miter saw is going to be best for small spaces, and in my opinion most versatile for the projects you described.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

ron45 said:


> Radial Arm saw would eliminate a need for portable table saw.



It's funny that you don't hear a lot of people talk about radial arm saws. They are somewhat like a band saw in that they are limited by their 'throat size'. I've only used one occasionally and it seems their greatest advantage is the cut is on the topside which would be handy for dado cuts.
A buddy has one - admittedly picked up used, but he says the settings and adjustments need regular checking (don't recall what make).


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## 007noob (Sep 17, 2018)

Brian Famous said:


> Get those worthless cars out of your workshop!!! 🙂




Hey that would free up lots of space but in winter it is freezing cold in NJ. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## 007noob (Sep 17, 2018)

Merry Christmas! Happy holidays to all. 

Thanks for all the response. I actually bought both on sale (still unopened) but will need to return the table saw... probably, maybe... hmmm... most likely  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

It seems like you have made up your mind, but I'll throw out my $0.02 worth, anyway. I got along for many years with just a table saw (and a circular saw + speed square for the occasional lumber crosscuts), but I was mostly doing cabinets and furniture. Obviously, for moldings, trim, picture frames, etc. the miter saw will be much handier, and really the only way to go for rough framing. When doing cabinets, shelving, and furniture, I would be seriously frustrated without my table saw. A guide for a circular saw is a passable workaround for those tasks, but an inefficient one. Cutting long boards and compound miter cuts are really the only things where the table saw is really unhandy or difficult, and as I mentioned earlier, straight crosscuts for lumber are fairly easy with a circular saw (angled crosscuts aren't too much harder with a clamp for the speed square). So, if you have to choose just one, which one depends on what kind of work you anticipate doing most.


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## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

You did the right thing. You need both for the activities you mentioned.

A slider absolutely cannot do tasks a table saw can. However, a table saw can arguably do most of what a sliding miter can do; with the right sleds/jigs. If you're going to do cabinet making or table tops, or whatever, you're going to need to rip somewhat precisely. Yes, a high end track saw can do this. But even so, not that great for receptive cuts. Whether you're creating boards for a 4' - 5' coffee table top glue up, or strips for a cutting board, you can zip through that with a good table saw, (properly tuned), and get on to glue up. With a miter saw? No way. And dados? Yeah, you can do a little of that with a miter for short boards. But anything further? You'll really need a dado blade or stacked dado set on the table saw.

If I were limited to one, I'd have been in the table saw camp. You can use a circular saw to crosscut, even ganging up multiple boards and going through all of them. The place whee you'd have a challenge is fast repetitive cuts of same size using a stop block, relative ease of molding, and similar.

For either tool, you have some similar issues. Out of the box you need to check for the best square you can get and tune up/adjust accordingly. Good blades kept clean and sharp are key to everything. Clean/wax the surfaces occasionally and get the sawdust out of any table saw mechanisms, etc. every so often, lube and so on. Maintenance is a pain when you want to be building, but if you don't keep up with it... problems.

And, of course, unless you're going to to add a jointer/planer, you'll have to be buying - and triple checking for problems - S4S lumber and boards. Technically, you can - and I have - jointed edges using slightly offset fences on a router table. Or use a hold down jig on a table saw to make one clean, square edge. (Nothing you can do about long side without a planer, but oh well.) Still, a quality lumber yard hardwoods section with S4S boards should be good enough to build with allowing for just some sanding to fix some minor issues.

Keep both. If you're building anything like cabinets, tables, or similar, you really will be working against yourself with only one of these tools.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I thought the space issue was the limiting factor here...



mmm I wanted a jointer too, but then, in the middle of my joint o the week video I saw a YouTuber who'd made a combo of a topside sander and planer and now I want to maker that instead.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I think we are finding it is an incurable disease. No antidote. Only satisfaction in having the right tools for the job. I am in the terminal phase, now.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

Just as an update I finally found the drum sander/planer video I want to make - 





But to the OT, I just saw this thing and it might be a better option to kinda combo up the table saw and sliding miter saw - has dogs in the workbench thing that'll give you a perfect 90 or 45 and the plunge saw is pretty slickly designed to stop tear out for finer word-working, and best of all it folds up pretty tight for a small garage shop. Check out the video for features - https://www.kregtool.com/store/c73/systems/p471/adaptive-cutting-system-master-kit/

And if you're still deciding this video kinda talks about the differences between a table saw, a track saw, and the Kreg thing above. Gives a good overview of what each is best for and why you might want one over the other:


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

The miter saw is good for cutting molding and boards wheras the table saw is good for everything else. With crown molding a compound miter saw allows for more intricate cuts for the corners but that is specialty work of the type where I prefer to hire a finish carpenter who has the tools and also the knowledge and skills. 

For table saws the ones that have a cart with wheels that can be flipped on one side and take up less space when not in use are the way to go. The DeWalt DWE749RS and its predecessors have been at the number 1 spot for every table saw review done by competent reviewers over the last 5 years.


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