# Replace 25 yo Delta shower valve?



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I am almost certain that is a Delta 600 series... you are right, it is old.

However, parts are easily available for it, even at the HD's and Lowes. It is not a cartridge.

The silver cap unscrews and it comes apart. Take the parts and match them at HD. There is a ball type end on a stem, and the O rings and a rubber type seal and that white plastic part (and a handy little wrench for turning that white plastic thing).

You can buy the entire set, or almost each part in a package... I'd get all new parts ....$15 or so.

By the way... you can also get aftermarket trim rings and handles $40 or so, to dress it up in chrome or brushed.

That valve body was a very popular builder model. It won't quit... you might have to steel wool it's inside for some water deposit... but it is the energiser bunny of shower valves.

Do note... it is not temp or pressure balanced, and no longer code.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Loosen the lock nut where those screws are and turn the screw in to shut off the water.


----------



## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

we installed hundreds of these faucets over a 40 yr period still going strong as mentioned parts easy to get ..just center ball seats and springs little bit of faucet lube ..good for many more yrs...delta were 1 st because we last..:thumbsup::thumbsup:ben sr


----------



## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Here's a tip on those valves : If the retaining ring gets siezed up and you force it, those little copper tubes on the back will twist and break. Especially after years of use if the tubing is worn out......


Personally, i'd replace it to something with a solid brass body, BUT parts are readily available for it, and if it looks like it's in good shape, then by all means you CAN certainly leave it in the wall. The best thing to do is clean the threads up on that ring very well (as well as it's counterpart threads on the valve body), and lube them up with a good faucet grease so that it will come off someday down the road when you need it to.


----------



## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

jjrbus said:


> ...There are no shutoff valves to this shower. What are the slotted screw heads and each side for?



These are your shut-offs.


----------



## jjrbus (Aug 28, 2009)

Thanks everybody!

I finally get the answer I am looking for:thumbup: This spruce up of the bath as usual has gotten a bit out of hand and I do not need another project.

The shut off's seem to function properly but as mentioned the knurled ring is locked tight. Must be some old plumbers trick to loosen it? Now all I need is an old plumber.

Thanks again JIm


----------



## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

jjrbus said:


> Thanks everybody!
> 
> I finally get the answer I am looking for:thumbup: This spruce up of the bath as usual has gotten a bit out of hand and I do not need another project.
> 
> ...



There is no real trick. Try loosening with the maximum amount of pressure you can put on it with some channel locks without twisting the entire assembly. Be very careful not to twist it too far. If it won't break loose you can try some penetrating oil or something like that..... if it's that bad though, I usually just replace them.


----------



## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

If you replaced the bath tub / shower your local code official may make you replace the valve to a pressure balanced anti scald. I suggest you call them.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Alan said:


> There is no real trick. Try loosening with the maximum amount of pressure you can put on it with some channel locks without twisting the entire assembly. Be very careful not to twist it too far. If it won't break loose you can try some penetrating oil or something like that..... if it's that bad though, I usually just replace them.


I agree with Alan...... but if it's really important to try and use the old Delta and penetrating solvents don't work... try cutting it off by sorta scoring it with a Dremel or fine hacksaw and sorta prying/peeling it off.

But... make sure that your supplier does carry that cap piece to replace it.

Not that you want to waste money, but might be simpler and faster to just put in a new valve.


----------



## jjrbus (Aug 28, 2009)

An over night soak with PB blaster and it came right off:thumbsup:

Thanks for the input, always greatly appreciated. JIm

I was biting my tongue on my response and had to come back and edit. If you need an anti scald valve in your house your water is waaaay too hot. You should not be able to cook with your hot water!


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

jjrbus said:


> An over night soak with PB blaster and it came right off:thumbsup:
> 
> Thanks for the input, always greatly appreciated. JIm
> 
> I was biting my tongue on my response and had to come back and edit. If you need an anti scald valve in your house your water is waaaay too hot. You should not be able to cook with your hot water!


GREAT:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Jim... I'm one of those of your school... that codes are sometimes over protective. Risk assesment is a subjective evaluation. I often think that if you have a "code commission", it is somewhat a self perpetual creating job. If you don't keep finding something to require, you are out of a job.

I will say that people do turn up their water heaters all the way up (to have a large supply for multiple showers) and in a low pressure home if toilets flush or the washing machine goes on, the shower could get a little hot.... that's the logic I think. I'm sure the valves cost a little more... but at least they work.... it's afci's that PMO.... at high cost and complications.... 

Best Peter


----------



## DidIDoThat (Nov 17, 2012)

Yes the valve can be repaired, But I think it would be foolish not to replace while the wall is open.
You'll be kicking yourself if it has to be replaced later.


----------



## jjrbus (Aug 28, 2009)

Easy access from the back! I'd kick myself harder if I had trouble with a new valve!
Thanks for the input. JIm


----------

