# Overhanging Drip Edge



## Columbus (Mar 19, 2011)

As you can see from the picture, whoever sided the home, prior to our occupancy, ran the J channel for the siding right under the roof deck along the gable ends of both sides of our home. One of the roofing contractors I have been talking with said the drip edge will be exposed along the rake. He did say I could paint it before it was installed but I am having a hard time visualizing what it is going to look like. Any ideas or thoughts on how to handle this or what is the best drip edge to use? Thanks for any ideas!


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2008)

*Drip edge installation*

Some information on drip edge installation at this link.

Drip Edge Installation

I think I have a picture somewhere. Need to find it.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

It won't look much different. The vertical flange on the drip edge will cover the J channel.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

That’s a bad detail. 

I’d have metal hanging “below” the J at least an inch or more.

Water can also get behind the siding where the siding terminates into the J and run down the wall.

This is one reason why roofs have overhangs to begin with, to protect just that.

Paint or don’t paint but protect that intersection.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

Just guessing from the pic and the name.... You're in Ohio, right?


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## Columbus (Mar 19, 2011)

Yes, central Ohio, so not the toughest climate on a roof I would think but figuring and hoping that this will be the last roof I put on the home I want to make sure I do it as correctly as possible. I appreciate all the information on the drip edge and some previous posts on the difference between a drip edge and a gutter apron. I will definitley protect that area "kwikfishron" and have printed out that link you sent [email protected] to study. Thanks!


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

If it were my home I would for sure do something about the J exposure.Nothing good can come out of leaving it as it is IMO.

The siding crew obviously were alot to be desired but what about the inspector who didn't flag that on his inspection?

You can install an L flashing/apron that will lay flush against the J channel/siding.I think that L flashing/apron would be your best bet.My reasoning is if drip edge is selected the lip on the drip edge will extend past your shingles/starters.If drip edge is selected the entire rakeline will have to have shingles and starters removed as to accomodate the extension past the rakeline.

If a pro will be doing the work you can request a specific color of coil stock from samples.The metal can be broke without the need of painting.I have seen some drip edge that was painted and I was not impressed.The crew that painted the drip edge was frustrated with the fact I had them remove and dispose of the painted drip edge and break new metal from a selected color by the customer.

Your house but I would chose a factory color versus a painted drip edge.IMO it will look worse from season to season.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

We just did a house similar on the gables. It was built in the early 60's. Being we did the siding, soffit, fascia, windows, and roof.....we fixed those areas. Built an over hang, installed fascias, drip edge, and gutter apron properly. Now they have no chances of leaks on the gables.

This would be harder to achieve when doing the roof, siding, soffit/fascia at different times with different contractors.

With the lighter weather in Ohio, I wouldn't worry so much. A nice Edco steel edging will cover that J completely. 

What does the insulation look like?

What year is the home? I'm not familiar with the energy code in that area. Here, that eave would not suffice.


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## Columbus (Mar 19, 2011)

Thanks for everyone's input  "Roofmaster417" good idea about the apron flashing but I am having a hard time visualizing the drip edge issue. Can you explain further so I can relay to my contractor?

"MJW" the home was built in 1943. I think my insulation is okay. I have batts of R19 running lengthwise and then another set of R19 batts running widthwise.


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## Columbus (Mar 19, 2011)

I really would like to specify gutter apron on the eaves for this re-roof project but I am now wondering if my gutter spikes are going to become an issue? If you don't mind me dragging this thread out a little longer, what are your thoughts?


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

Columbus said:


> I really would like to specify gutter apron on the eaves for this re-roof project but I am now wondering if my gutter spikes are going to become an issue? If you don't mind me dragging this thread out a little longer, what are your thoughts?


The gutter spikes will be something you will have to live with.IMO

They make straps but they won't last long with the weight of ice and snow.They also have a bracket style but you will still have to deal with the apron being penetrated by the screw with the bracket.

IMO I think seamless gutters with spikes is the best combination for a guttering system.

Clean your gutters 1 time per season or 2 times if you have alot of overhanging trees.Make sure your down spouts stay clear too.


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## Columbus (Mar 19, 2011)

Thanks Roofmaster417 for your reply and help:thumbup: Earlier in the thread you spoke about using L flashing on the rake versus drip edge because of shingle/starter issue. While I like the idea of the L, I am having a hard time visualizing the drip edge issue to explain to my contractor. Would you mind elaborating further on your thoughts?


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