# I know this is "DIY" forum but, having a new house built. Progress...



## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Footing/footer (depending what part of the country you're from).


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

It's crazy how fast walls get put up.


My house, as viewed from the next-door neighbor's. The houses you see in the background are a bit closer together on smaller properties. We are on an acre. I don't like the jammed-in feeling either, but we're in a different part of the development.











Walking up the driveway, garage is on the right side of the house.











Garage. Master Bedroom above.











To the right of the garage is the small laundry room and a little toilet room. To the right of that is the 'sun room' hanging off the backside of the kitchen.











Back.











Front.











Love the view out the back sun room window over the property. Property goes a bit shy of that lake where a little stream runs through.











Kids playing in the "yard." I'm excited for them too. Get into a quiet neighborhood without traffic. This road is a small loop with only one in/out.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Are there any headers above the doorways & windows? Appears to me that there is going to be a lot of flex in those walls, when the wind starts blowing. BTW, Footers & Footings are those square things, foundation sits on a footer itself, that is around the outside perimeter. But overall to make it easy for some, you can just state "Foundation, and most will not consider what the wall is sitting on as something separate, so overall they think of the whole wall structure as a Foundation of the structure.

Also, why the weeping tile, with the crawlspace? It does not appear that you have a high water table in that area, from how dry the soil is, and that it appears to be also a mix of clay & stone.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

I can't access the pics of the framing I took from work, let me pull them up at home to get a better answer for you. I do know it's 2x6 framing.



> BTW, Footers & Footings are those square things, foundation is what the walls sit on, that is around the outside perimeter.


Gotcha, thank you. I thought the foundation was the concrete walls.

Weeping tile...That is not a crawlspace, it's a basement; unless I am misunderstanding the question...


EDIT: Here's a better shot of the other side. Egress window on the left.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Dave, you are correct in stating the pics in post #2 are footings. Your foundation walls are poured on top of them.

The pic of the sunroom windows in post #3 show no window headers.

Best of luck with the new house. When I built mine, I was close enough to check on the progress everyday. I took pics of everything. They came in handy when I did a remodel and needed to know where pipes and wires were.


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## forcedreno2012 (Nov 9, 2012)

Looks good. Some days when building it goes screaming fast and then some days it just seems to crawl along. 

Keep an eye on the little ones while out there. Too much stuff that they can get hurt on and find on a construction site. We found needles and roaches and I am not talking the bug kind and this was in an upscale area.

Do you have an elevation rendering? Would be interested in seeing it if you do. 

Make sure they seal that tyvek down really well. On ours they didn't and the wind would blow through the walls in one area up there. Ended up having to tear off the siding and re do one area it was so bad.

Robyn


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Yeah, what "forcedreno2012" says about the "Tyvek" -
Tyvek tape - plastic-cap nails.

Good idea to add that "sunroom" -
it'll probably end up being one of the most used, rooms in the house!


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Here is a better shot of the back wall.

Curiosity question: I thought that framing a door opening, that header should span across the trimmer studs? Am I missing something? You should be able to blow up the pic...


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

A couple more. Weird to see the studs spanning the openings "hanging" and not setting on top of anything.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

djlandkpl said:


> When I built mine, I was close enough to check on the progress everyday. I took pics of everything. They came in handy when I did a remodel and needed to know where pipes and wires were.


I wish we were close enough. We live about 1 hour 10 minutes away right now, so we try to go up on a Sat/Sun to see how things are going. We met the next door neighbor and she's been sending us a couple pics during the week, so at least that's something.



forcedreno2012 said:


> Keep an eye on the little ones while out there. Too much stuff that they can get hurt on and find on a construction site. We found needles and roaches and I am not talking the bug kind and this was in an upscale area.


Absolutely! I don't like them being there at this stage but it's difficult. 



> Do you have an elevation rendering? Would be interested in seeing it if you do.


I do. Hell if I can read it, but I will get it posted up after supper. 



> Make sure they seal that tyvek down really well. On ours they didn't and the wind would blow through the walls in one area up there. Ended up having to tear off the siding and re do one area it was so bad.





rossfingal said:


> Yeah, what "forcedreno2012" says about the "Tyvek" -
> Tyvek tape - plastic-cap nails.


I did notice it blowing around a bit and it made me a bit uneasy. I sure hope it's all down good! 




> Good idea to add that "sunroom" - it'll probably end up being one of the most used, rooms in the house!


The great thing about it is that it adds that much space to the basement too!


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Yep, no headers on any of those openings. See a couple of King Studs in Picture 1, post #10, but yep you are going to have issues within the first year, if not by the fifth.

Homes these days are built for a money grab, and expected to not last much more than fifteen years tops. They are nowhere built how they were built way back when, unless you are lucky and have a builder that is going to take the time to build it right.

Now it is get the building up as fast as they can, so they can take the money and run in six months. Even worse is trying to get most of these shoddy builders to fix things afterwards.

Now is the time to have them go back and put in correct headers, along with Jack studs at the windows, before they put any roofing trusses on, unless they have done that today. I do not even see any diagonal bracing on the walls, to stop them from swaying in high winds.

Where the sections meet, I noticed that they did not overlap the top plate over to the next wall section. There is nothing to keep those two sections from moving independently. I am surprised that the structure has passed. Then of course it is as minimum code as you can get.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Now is there a way as a "buyer" to go and "make" the builder do/change things? Roof is already on, and it should be finished tomorrow (roof). Something I could show him that says "No, this is code, and this is the way it is supposed to be done." ?

When is the determination made between a header and cripple studs in an opening?

Are there code violations you see, or just not following "best practices"?

I just don't understand. They're using a crap-ton of lumber, does it really take THAT much more time to build it better?

RE: Diagonal bracing, I think I see some in post #3, pics 1 / 2 / 3 / 5 / 6, unless you are talking about something else?

I don't believe it has "passed" yet, as it is still in the framing stages.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I am unable to attach the pdf of some pages from the 1975 edition of "Basic Carpentry" by John Capotosto (The copy I have is pretty beat up, since it came from my dad, who got it from my mom's father, who ran one of the largest construction businesses in Illinois & Iowa). It would show how older traditional framing of walls, window & door openings were done, compared to today.

I did "snip" the pictures from the document for you to see:


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Do non-load bearing walls get full headers over windows and doors?

Thread here:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/door-headers-non-loadbearing-walls-81958/


Intersting viewpoints here:
http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/...en-to-use-a-header-and-not-interior-partition.


> We would never put a structural header in a non-structural wall - just seems stupid and wasteful - I'd actually think less of a job if I saw that, wonder if the crew understood the difference. We still put cripples in, mostly just for consistency's sake - so we know later exactly where to find framing. But I'm sure that could be omitted as well on standard width openings.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

I would not design a home with headers like this, but wood structural panel box headers are allowed by the 2009 International Residential Code. See Table R602.7.2 for limitations.

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_sec002.htm

contact your building department for determination of YOUR code requirements. Check to ensure an inspection will be performed on the frame.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Thanks for the link, I'll look it over when things calm down around here.

Silly question, but doesn't framing require an inspection on new construction of a house?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Could not attach the last two snip's, but these are them from the document.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave88LX said:


> Thanks for the link, I'll look it over when things calm down around here.
> 
> Silly question, but doesn't framing require an inspection on new construction of a house?


Always. But the sad thing is, this is minimum code, and I personally would not want to live in that structure, with how they built it.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Have your contractor block each side of the window openings for curtains and drapes. I am an old time builder so I am not familiar with that type of header, but it don't look very sturdy.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

Dave88LX said:


> Silly question, but doesn't framing require an inspection on new construction of a house?


in my area you have to have a framing inspection. it occurs after the rough plumbing, electrical and HVAC has been installed.

I cannot speak for your area, that's why I said call the building department where the home is being constructed.

I am not a fan of that type of header myself. 

Do you have a set of design drawings? if so what it specified in them?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave88LX said:


> Now is there a way as a "buyer" to go and "make" the builder do/change things? Roof is already on, and it should be finished tomorrow (roof). Something I could show him that says "No, this is code, and this is the way it is supposed to be done." ?
> 
> When is the determination made between a header and cripple studs in an opening?
> 
> ...


That diagonal bracing you see in post #3, is just there to keep that wall from falling outwards, until they get that missing section in place. The diagonal bracing would be at the corners, so that the walls do not flex during winds.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave88LX said:


> Thanks for the link, I'll look it over when things calm down around here.
> 
> Silly question, but doesn't framing require an inspection on new construction of a house?


Yes, because banks do not like to close on the loan, when the structure has not been inspected, or is noted as a possible hazard to life and property. Bring it up with your banker & local AHJ that you are just questioning the building practices, that you just do not consider it something that you are comfortable with, and would like the more traditional headers to be done above windows and doorways within the home, and at entry points.

The last thing you want to do, is spend all of this money, then have after five years, the home starting to show signs of shoddy construction.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

When I was doing a lot of framing -
We just put in double 2 X 12's over all openings -
Unless the openings were over 12 ft. -
then, double 2 X 12's (Or 2 X 14's) with steel flitch, plate (SP) -bolted.
Now it's "Microlams".

(I don't like to see "ANY" openings, without headers!)


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

OK I uploaded the site grading and plans. Best I can do...click to zoom. If you want a close-up of anything specific let me know...


























































Wish I had these in higher quality, sorry.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I just found the pictures from how they framed the bathroom window in my house. Doorways are framed the same way in my place, but it is better than how they did your place.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Post #9 -
We would have headers 2 X 10's/2 X12's over all openings on that sunroom.
The partition between the kitchen and the sunroom -
Double 2 x 12's.

How is the exterior end of your ridge beam going to be supported?
The middle of the window, with 2 X 4's and plywood? -
Unless it's a hip-roof.

Also, what kind of roof on the sunroom? cathedral/vaulted? -
I hope they used 2 X 10's - adequate insulation!
(We'd use 12's)


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

rossfingal said:


> How is the exterior end of your ridge beam going to be supported?
> The middle of the window, with 2 X 4's and plywood? -
> Unless it's a hip-roof.


Does this answer the roof question? I'm not sure. I will get some more pictures when I go up next time. Sun room is the one that sticks out the back of the house in the middle (I'm sure you got that. :laughing: )


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Yeah, that's show's more. Hope 10's or 12's for the rafters on the
sunroom.
Don't know what you're soffit is going to be - continuous vent on the soffit - ridge vent.
Good looking house!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Just browsing through your prints I can see shear wall panels with specified nailing pattern, also holdowns are called out- this by far replaces old school let in cross bracing.

I think I also saw reference to 2009 code- sounds pretty current.
I too don't like the header design- hard to get used to new ideas, but it must meet code......
I'm thinking this is done for energy efficiency- rather than being solid wood you can now fill that area with insulation. Same with some of you exterior corners and partition intersections.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

I can see with too large rafters, you might encroach into the 2nd
floor windows -
Then, fur down the rafters.

I understand the need for energy, concerns -
also, have seen structural problems that happen over time.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

Dave88LX said:


> O\



I finally had time to check out the drawings. if you look next the window openings you'll notice "2-2x8". in my opinion this would be a 2 ply 2x8 header as I cannot think of another reason of having a 2 ply 2x8 at a window, certainly not sill, jack or king studs.

is the builder also the one that designed the home? if not, contact the designer and inquire from them .....

hope this helps. :thumbsup:


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Yeah, I see that Gary!
That might be OK.
Don't see anything over the windows on the outside of the sunroom -
(gable-end) -
What's going to hold up the end of the ridge beam -
unless it's scissor-trusses (Minimal load on the gable wall).


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Thanks for moving it; didn't think of putting it in here in this forum.

Got a bunch of trim molding in the current house to work on; I'll address the rest of the questions in the morning.  Thanks everyone for the questions/input so far.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

No thanks needed!
Send money! (He, he, he!!)
Seriously - nice house - good for you!


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

I didn't see anything on the gable end of the sunroom either.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Yeah, Gary - you do have better eyes then I have, though!


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

I don't believe the builder designed the plans/house. The main company is Charter Homes: http://www.charterhomes.com/ The builder is just doing this neighborhood. I see some of the available houses in this neighborhood also in their other neighborhoods.

With this sun room not having anything over it but a roof, does that change things in what some of you were asking? I'll get a look at the trusses this weekend.




TheEplumber said:


> Just browsing through your prints I can see shear wall panels with specified nailing pattern, also holdowns are called out- this by far replaces old school let in cross bracing.


Holddowns? What does this mean? I assume this changes some original thoughts too?


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

I would inquire of your builder (as soon as possible) why headers were not installed in accordance with the drawings. I'd point out the labeling on the drawing.

I'd inquire how the sunroom roof was to be constructed.

To create a cathedral ceiling as in your sunroom you need one of the following:

1. truss roof
2. structural ridge beam that would support 1/2 the live + dead loads of your roof, which in turn has a point load that would come down on the header on the gable end which has to be sized to account for this load since we do not have structural glass.
3. rafter ties (horizontal members that are found in the lower 1/3 of the rafter space. Rafter ties are spaced at a maximum of 48" o.c., if they are to support ceiling load then they have to have less spacing. A ceiling joist sitting on top of a wall is a type of rafter tie.

the purpose of these is to prevent what is known as rafter thrust (weight of roof loads) from pushing out the tops of load bearing exterior walls.

Holdowns are metal connectors that are attached to shear walls and connected to the foundation so that lateral loads (seismic and wind) do not push, rack or overturn the building.

Good luck!


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Holy hell. I think I will just stick to computer networks and race cars.:laughing:

Reading along I see "asdglzkjxy WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) qblgasdfgawyasga WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) bdhyeydfyasf WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) dbfaf,qea/gghas WORD-I-KNOW(yesssss!) zxb.cndfasdfo. New Tab - www.google.com 

I will go to Google half what you said to get a better understanding. [email protected] comments aside, I DO appreciate the input...haha.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

hope this helps

cathedral ceiling http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/qa/framing-cathedral-ceiling.aspx

rafter thrust http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a=X&ei=sDRxUvaaJ7TJsQTx6IHABA&ved=0CDYQ9QEwAw

lateral load effect on buildings http://www.safestronghome.com/highwind/01.asp

holdowns http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hold_down_(structural_engineering)


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

is there a cross section of the sunroom in your drawings?


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Thanks Gary, I will go read those links! Cross section drawing of the sun room, is that not the one on the blueprint? The sun room is shown on some of the drawings at the bottom of page 2, but I assume that's not what you're looking for?

11' (gable wall length) x 9'6" (ridge)...


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

I went back and looked and did not see a cross section posted. A cross section is similar to the exterior elevation. Imagine taking your house and slicing it like a loaf of bread so you can see what's inside. It should explain the construction of the various assemblies such as floor, roof, walls, etc.

I wanted to see what they had specified for your roof construction in the sunroom.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

I'd be freaking out about now.

Not even a jack stud anywhere that I could see. Looks like the load will eventually break the windows.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I'm no expert but I would really like to see a beefier header above those windows. Given the large openings personally I'd want to see like triple 2x10 full span header supported by quad 2x6 columns. (quad just to fill the space, could probably get away with 2 structurally). Basically, the header sits on top of the columns, vs sitting on the fasteners like it is now. 

Lumber is cheap compared to the cost of fixing cracked windows/walls later.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You can push on that wall as is, and it will flex very easily. The bad thing is, if the OP was to fire the current GC and subs, to find a competent group that could build this place to last more than twenty years, they might be left with having what is there now, open to the weather, and thus would have to tear a bunch of structure off, to redo the building from the foundation all the way up.

As for the notation of 90mph winds, that is around what they design manufactured housing for. MD gets its share of bad windstorms and bad Winter Weather. I would hate to see what happens if they get a Windshear or Straight Line winds greater than 125mph, in its current status.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Looks to me since the pic of the 3 windows in the sun room are non load bearing, they left out the headers. 

Dave, do you have a straight on picture of one of the windows or doors that have a header hanging from the top plate? I'm thinking there is full structure on the exterior side of the wall and the framing is scaled down on the interior to allow for insulation.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

djlandkpl said:


> Looks to me since the pic of the 3 windows in the sun room are non load bearing, they left out the headers.
> 
> Dave, do you have a straight on picture of one of the windows or doors that have a header hanging from the top plate? I'm thinking there is full structure on the exterior side of the wall and the framing is scaled down on the interior to allow for insulation.


To me it appears they did a triple plate on that three window wall, if you look at that original picture.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave, you are going to hate me on this one. Before they start putting in any insulation or drywall up, have them pull two runs of RG-6 for Satellite dish location, also same for Outdoor antenna, in case you decide to go that route, if FiOS or CATV is not available in your location.

Also have RG-6 pulled where the telephone box will go (I like to see them where the power meter is), also Cat-5e or Cat-6 for comm. Have everything pulled into the utility room where the furnace & water heater are, along with min. two Cat-5e or Cat-6 to each room for both Ethernet & telephone if not going with cordless handsets that are bluetooth capable, if only using cellphones.

At where you are going to place your tv's in the house, have them pull Cat-6 for wired Ethernet, or HDMI over Ethernet wiring, if placing tv boxes in that central room. Have them pull a Cat-6 Run where your thermostat will go, in case you ever go with a Network or are going with a network capable thermostat to control the hvac.

I would at least place a Ceiling mounted Access Point using Power Over Ethernet, such as something like this http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Netw...&keywords=ceiling+mount+wireless+access+point on each floor, with a POE capable Network switch back in that central location in the Utility room. Make sure you have a good sturdy shelf that you can place the equipment on for router, modem, UPS, etc..

If going with audio in the rooms, make sure all that wiring is in place, and photos taken, so the wires are found when you go to place the speakers in the walls and ceiling locations, along with control pads for volume, etc..

I know that this stuff is probably number 100 right now on the list, but better to move it up at this point, while you can still get the wires in the wall, before they insulate and close them up. You have my email, so feel free to email me if you want to throw some ideas on this subject I just put up.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Wow. I hate _everyone_ right now. :laughing:

Got to keep pressing on this trimwork and get the kids in bed; I'll return later to address what I can.

FYI this is in York, PA. Moving out of Maryland!:thumbup:


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

gregzoll said:


> To me it appears they did a triple plate on that three window wall, if you look at that original picture.


I assume thats a drywall nailer. The gable is stood up and nailed to that. If the gable is a structual gable then headers are not an issue in my mind- The side walls(truss bearing) looks to have double 2x headers


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The headers are there, look at post 9&10, there's a single 2x with cripples. They'll fill in the rest during pick up. 

The box headers are fine on a non-bearing gable wall. See the trusses on the ground, you can see what the roofs going to look like from there. 

That end wall of the sunroom is obviously a gable.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

kwikfishron said:


> The headers are there, look at post 9&10, there's a single 2x with cripples. They'll fill in the rest during pick up.
> 
> The box headers are fine on a non-bearing gable wall. See the trusses on the ground, you can see what the roofs going to look like from there.
> 
> That end wall of the sunroom is obviously a gable.


Hopefully Dave has a straight on pic of a load bearing wall. Early on in this thread, a frenzy of inadequate framing was started and it would be good for Dave to know it's all good.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave88LX said:


> Wow. I hate _everyone_ right now. :laughing:
> 
> Got to keep pressing on this trimwork and get the kids in bed; I'll return later to address what I can.
> 
> FYI this is in York, PA. Moving out of Maryland!:thumbup:


Look at it this way. You have access to Yuengling, and those of us in the Midwest, do not.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

djlandkpl said:


> a frenzy of inadequate framing was started


You think :thumbsup:....It's not uncommon to leave out trimmers, fill in headers, etc later in an effort to get the thing up fast and a roof on. 

I only have just glanced at this thread and to see all of the "your house will fall down" crap just blows me away.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> You think :thumbsup:....It's not uncommon to leave out trimmers, fill in headers, etc later in an effort to get the thing up fast and a roof on.
> 
> I only have just glanced at this thread and to see all of the "your house will fall down" crap just blows me away.


Oh c'mon man- didn't you see that the framming passed inspection?
Wait until the mech work gets done- we haven't see nothin yet

What's funny is- lots of pictures but no workers.....


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

TheEplumber said:


> Oh c'mon man- didn't you see that the framming passed inspection? .


With trusses on the ground? :laughing: Inspected by who? The place isn't even close to call for a framing inspection.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave needs to place a camera at the neighbor's property, watching the house, since he cannot be there everyday, or have the wife drop in. Even just having the neighbor take pic's while the crew is there, so he can catch stuff and bring it to the attention to the GC may be a good idea.

As they say, always have someone watching those who you give your money to, when you have them do a project for you.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

djlandkpl said:


> Hopefully Dave has a straight on pic of a load bearing wall. Early on in this thread, a frenzy of inadequate framing was started and it would be good for Dave to know it's all good.


I know! I feel like one huff and puff by the Big Bad Wolf and my house is going to be across the street.:thumbsup:

Got this pic sent today. Look, a worker!:thumbsup: Those other pics were taken on Saturday afternoons, hence the no workers.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

How is the other build next to you going? Same builder & subs on that job also? Have you talked to that owner to see what their thoughts are?


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Whooo, didn't get nearly as much done as I wanted to tonight, kept going back to the to catch up on the Sox game (native M******* here!).

We walked through the house next door, but I didn't know even what I know thanks to you guys. I'll take another look this weekend.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Far as I can tell, all the headers are correct as called for on the plans. The 2-2x8 for over most of the walls are there, look closer- people. Hard to see the 3-2x12 over the 18' great room. Gable end of the sunroom do not require headers as per plan. Gable truss suffices. Nice framing other than around here (in seismic zone) a shear wall inspection is required, before the housewrap. Rest assured, inspections are being done correctly to close the sale for occupancy. If not hire someone local or post way more pictures. 

The only one I would question is *if they solid blocked the main floor joist *where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above.


Gary 
PS. Your wall is stronger with the headers just under top plate than a header directly above the window with cripples above for flex, no worries.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

It's been super busy around this house and I haven't been up yet to take a look recently.

Windows are in, roof is done. We've got our post-construction/pre-finishing meeting on Thursday for a walk-through of the place. Next-door neighbor sent a couple more pictures. I know it's mostly the same/boring pictures right now.





















I always said that "houses with no windows on the side look stupid", then I went and built one myself. Ah well. There was no point in them on that side of the house for the cost. Plenty of windows in the front and rear. The single window is at the bottom of the staircase.










Deck plans already flying through my head. They offer a "deck" for about $8K, and it's this little 10'x10' thing. Screw that.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Dave88LX said:


> FYI this is in York, PA.


PA's tornado county.

Looks like it will be a nice place when done.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

I feel the same way about gable ends without windows and I also designed my renovation without windows on one side.
There is however a sour puss neighbor on that side I won't need to look at. :laughing:


The house is coming along nicely.:thumbsup:

I am curious about the lack of roof overhand on the gable end. Are all houses in your area like that?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Dave88LX said:


> I always said that "houses with no windows on the side look stupid", then I went and built one myself.


Is that the west side of the home? You will be happy in the heat of the summer that no windows are there.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

It's actually the Southeast side. I'll get plenty of light coming in through the front and back windows though.

This site is neat:
http://www.suncalc.net/


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

We have our post-construction/pre-finishing meeting tomorrow afternoon.

Any questions I should ask or things I should be looking/checking for? I think walking in with a level would be a bit ballsy.:whistling2::thumbup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier, check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall. Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass. I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors....* What type of siding*?
http://www.deckmagazine.com/safety/structure.aspx

Gary
PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Gary in WA said:


> Other than checking for in-floor solid blocking as I said earlier: "The only one I would question is if they solid blocked the main floor joist where the steel beam terminates at each end running across the 12' sunroom, in the basement/crawl plan. Your subfloor on main floor at the three 2x6's in walls separating the sunroom from house may show a sag from the point loads of triple 2x12's above."


I was running out of time today to get down to the basement and get the pictures down there, but I can get those easily because they are not finishing it. Unfortunately I don't have that information right now.



> check for "kick-out" flashing over the sunroom door where roof meets house wall.


I wasn't able to crawl around there today because the siding crew had all their stuff setup. I will give that a look next time I'm up. I imagine you can't see what you are looking for here?












> Also check windows where the deck will be; if sill is at or under 18"-- require "safety glaze" imprinted in bottom corner of units etched on the glass.


Never knew such a thing existed in houses! I've seen in in cars plenty. Judging by this picture, it's pretty close; I'll have to get a measurement. I didn't opt for a deck ($8K for a tiny little thing), so I don't know if they take that into consideration or if it matters. I'll check the glass and height out too next time; thanks for the link on it.













> I'd opt for some small semblance of gable roof (supported with braces off house) over the new front door, just to protect the head flashing from leaks, and when letting visitors....* What type of siding*?


Dang! Haven't moved and that honey-do list is already started. :laughing: It's vinyl siding.





> PS. the nice job they did with the Tyvek, shows they care... outside water hose bibs and electrical outlets on the low side may be a problem..


I am pretty hard to please. I come from a networking background with beginnings in cabling & telephone, so I'm a stickler for neat/tidy/organized/presentation. I was very happy with what I've seen so far in the house. I don't know if some things are above and beyond or code, but either way it's nice to see.

Example is all this sealant. It's between every exterior wall 2x that I saw. "Good guys" or code? Also, here's a full shot of the wall that sparked a 4 page debate.:laughing:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The kick-out flashing looks like this: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/ite...-flash-troublesome-roof-to-wall-intersections it is used where any wall extends past the intersecting roof as to the right of the sunroom door, front of house where great room addition? gable ties into house wall to the right of front door, you can see it from ground with binoculars or +++ camera phone. Pic in basement later would be appreciated. 

Just measure the distance from the bottom edge of opening part of window to subfloor OSB and subtract the finish flooring (eg. minus 3/4" for hardwood) to be over 18" for code or you will need to re-glaze (purchase and install) all the windows effected by the deck. Sometimes they forget, sometimes they forget on purpose, and sometimes they just don't care. The fiberglass insulation used to stop air next to the windows is NA; http://books.google.com/books?id=a298Hrpiu8AC&pg=PA123&lpg=PA123&dq=Proskiw+%281995%29&source=bl&ots=R3I2-fFVTl&sig=beKYTj24gopGv73x7cKL9XKEyJY&hl=en&ei=MHkNTbCWJou6sQPAiPXyCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBMQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Proskiw%20%281995%29&f=false

You are under the 2012 IECC; http://www.reedconstructiondata.com/building-codes/maryland/

I'm surprised the builder is able to seal next to the windows with air-permeable fiberglass--- even if he added continuous caulking on 3 sides of the windows/Tyvek--- and still pass the air pressure test;


*"TABLE N1102.4.1.1 (R402.4.1.1) AIR BARRIER AND INSULATION INSTALLATION* 

*COMPONENT* *CRITERIAa* Air barrier and thermal barrier A continuous air barrier shall be installed in the building envelope.
Exterior thermal envelope contains a continuous air barrier.
Breaks or joints in the air barrier shall be sealed.
*Air-permeable insulation shall not be used as a sealing material. * Ceiling/attic The air barrier in any dropped ceiling/soffit shall be aligned with the insulation and any gaps in the air barrier sealed.
Access openings, drop down stair or knee wall doors to unconditioned attic spaces shall be sealed. Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls shall be installed in substantial contact and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed. Windows, skylights and doors The space between window/door jambs and framing and skylights and framing shall be sealed. 

" From; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_11_par052.htm

Compare your fg install to this one, notice all the sides of your studs showing and all the wrickles in the paper facing (you could go in and slightly pull the insulation away from being pushed toward the sheathing so when they drywall you will have full contact with it hence no convective loops); From that previous link; 

"Walls Corners and headers shall be insulated and the junction of the foundation and sill plate shall be sealed.
The junction of the top plate and top of exterior walls shall be sealed.
Exterior thermal envelope insulation for framed walls *shall be installed in substantial contact *and continuous alignment with the air barrier.
Knee walls shall be sealed." Bold is mine.

Pages *43-48*; http://www.buildingscienceconsultin...010-03-10_When_R-Value_Doesn t_Measure_Up.pdf

"


“If you choose an insulation that doesn't stop air flow, it's important to install an adjacent air barrier material.”
“Fiberglass batts are air-permeable — they do a poor job of resisting airflow — so it is essential that they be installed in continuous contact with an impeccable barrier to air movement." From; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ir-leakage-degrades-thermal-performance-walls
The siding is fine- if cement board I would have more comments, lol.

Gary
PS. maybe I sound a little overboard on the gaps at the drywall/insulation- lol- maybe not- better to have a gap behind the insulation than in front;* Fig.2a, 2b;*https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...9EVKki&sig=AHIEtbTb5UnlVQ7Je0R-_NGatSVo3wzmAQ


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

And........... what did they say? Any news?

Gary


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

I have been running around with (for) the wife all weekend...I need to get the kids out of my hair so I can sit down and digest all that!:thumbsup:

I do know that the drywall was being delivered when I was there on Thursday, I imagine it's probably already up by now.:laughing:

Your knowledge of construction and codes is incredible Gary. I'm sure you've said it before, but what is your job?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Not to derail this, but the homes in this link are built by today's standards. If they were built by the older standards, or had wind ties on the walls & rafters, the structures would not have been so bad, when the Tornado ripped through.

http://www.weather.com/news/weather...7?hootPostID=0d12675f3c80d90a66453cbddbd2db7c

I personally would tell the GC to go and put in Wind ties while the drywall is still not up, so at least you have a chance, in case you do get one of these events. So far there has been over 76 confirmed Tornado touchdowns, with damage Missouri, up through Illinois, part of lower Michigan, over to Ohio.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Oh my God...those are some incredibly devastating pictures.

Greg, I'm confused by this statement: "If they were built by the older standards, or had wind ties on the walls & rafters, the structures would not have been so bad." Are you saying that older standards were better?

For anyone who is bored and has nothing better to do and wants to look through some framing pictures, here's the whole album. Make sure to click "All Photos." I don't know why Google defaults to "Highlights".
https://plus.google.com/photos/1056...ms/5946292067841338865?authkey=CJ7D9PC6_abHFQ


I do know there are hurricane ties on the rafters.











I don't know the location of all the wind ties, but I did find at least one in the garage. I also see the insulation, I believe Gary was getting at the paper should not be crinkled and come all the way out to the face edge of the stud. Should there be something taping the pieces together? I assume they were pre-cut to length batts instead of a roll.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

There are some homes in that neighborhood, that were on the edge of the direct path, that suffered only roof loss, but the walls are still standing. Those homes that were built at the same standard that your builder is; that is to stand only up to 90mph winds, no framing to keep the structure from being pulled apart, only using OSB to hold the walls together, etc.

Older standards, homes could withstand up to being hit with 150mph winds, and still have only roofing damage. If you have Wind ties on the rafters, and walls, it at least holds the structure together, so it does have somewhat of a chance of getting through the majority of the storm.

That community that is in those pictures, is less than 15 years old. The builder that built most of those homes there, has been in trouble recently for shoddy building practices, cutting corners, etc..

Looking at your bottom pic, it does look like they have used a tie on that framing, but do not see any on your rafters to the walls. I would have them double those baffles, since it is only 3/4 of the roof area, that they are covering. It will leave a dead space, that can have issues, if they do not cover the whole space between the rafters.

After looking at your pictures, I can see the ties in one of them, where they tied the rafter to the wall. Not to be too picky, I just would not want to spend all of this money, then have issues come down the road in two or three years. I have had too many friends and family that have built homes in the past six years, and have had nothing but problems, when it comes to various things.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I do see an issue with the duct work in this picture, being compressed. May want to address this issue and others, before they put drywall up.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

This is the garage. That wall to the right is the backside of the kitchen. Why OSB; because it's considered an exterior wall? Master bedroom is above the garage.











Load-bearing wall of the sunroom. There is a header above the window behind the insulation. I was confused until he showed me.











Looking into the kitchen from the sunroom. Dining room is on the far side behind it.











Living Room.











From the living room looking towards the front door.










Just some gee-whiz pics.























A sea of 2x4s.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Most likely they are using the OSB as a soundproofing barrier between the garage & living space. Because they are going to place 5/8" drywall over that OSB, inquire if they can use Green Glue between the OSB & Drywall, to further cut down any noise transmitted from the garage to the living space.

The GC may hem or haw about using the Green Glue, but it is worth it in cutting down noise transmission.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Dave- several of your album pics show hurricane clips, and your blueprints showed hold downs and shear walls if I remember right. 
IMO- You've got a good looking, well designed home there. Congrats :thumbup:


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

TheEplumber said:


> Dave- several of your album pics show hurricane clips, and your blueprints showed hold downs and shear walls if I remember right.
> IMO- You've got a good looking, well designed home there. Congrats :thumbup:


I saw those hold downs after I started to go through the album. I just am not in agreement with the fact that they calculated the home to only withstand a 90mph wind shear.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> There are some homes in that neighborhood, that were on the edge of the direct path, that suffered only roof loss, but the walls are still standing. Those homes that were built at the same standard that your builder is; that is to stand only up to 90mph winds, no framing to keep the structure from being pulled apart, only using OSB to hold the walls together, etc.
> 
> Older standards, homes could withstand up to being hit with 150mph winds, and still have only roofing damage. If you have Wind ties on the rafters, and walls, it at least holds the structure together, so it does have somewhat of a chance of getting through the majority of the storm.


Looking at the blueprints, it says 90 MPH. Is that above, below, or at normal spec? Why did the standard change from 150 MPH to 90 MPH; or is it a regional thing? I do have wind ties on the rafters (see pics), and the rim joist straps/tie downs (see pics).



> That community that is in those pictures, is less than 15 years old. The builder that built most of those homes there, has been in trouble recently for shoddy building practices, cutting corners, etc..


Is that not caught during inspections, overlooked, or just not cared about?

Looking at your bottom pic, it does look like they have used a tie on that framing, but do not see any on your rafters to the walls.[/quote]Check out the attic pics, I thought those were the hurricane ties that you are talking about?



> I would have them double those baffles, since it is only 3/4 of the roof area, that they are covering. It will leave a dead space, that can have issues, if they do not cover the whole space between the rafters.


I'm not following here...



> After looking at your pictures, I can see the ties in one of them, where they tied the rafter to the wall. Not to be too picky, I just would not want to spend all of this money, then have issues come down the road in two or three years. I have had too many friends and family that have built homes in the past six years, and have had nothing but problems, when it comes to various things.


Ugh, I should have just gone with Ryan Homes, I hear they have a great reputation! :laughing: Belieeeeve me I don't want issues either! I'm so tired of issues. 

Do these "awards" mean anything? I was hoping they did. :whistling2:
http://www.charterhomes.com/awards

http://www.probuilder.com/2013-national-housing-quality-award-winners


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> I do see an issue with the duct work in this picture, being compressed. May want to address this issue and others, before they put drywall up.


I did notice some of the ductwork had been compressed little where electric was ran. Why would they do that? I'm sure the NM cable would fit between the duct and the drywall.

Is that a code thing or a "shouldn't do that" thing?

EDIT: I see you saw the hurricane ties now in the other pics.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I think you need handrail backing on your stairs too


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dave88LX said:


> I did notice some of the ductwork had been compressed little where electric was ran. Why would they do that? I'm sure the NM cable would fit between the duct and the drywall.
> 
> Is that a code thing or a "shouldn't do that" thing?
> 
> EDIT: I see you saw the hurricane ties now in the other pics.


It is a sub not paying attention. I would have the GC rake the electrical sub about this stuff. Your HVAC sub is not going to be happy, if you show them that picture.

It should not have been compressed like that, if the electricians where paying attention. As for the other stuff, codes vary, depending on where you live, on what the min. rating for wind shear is going to be, along with if they require Earthquake ties at the walls, so that they do not collapse during a event.

There is one picture out there from today's storm, that a home dating from the 50's was pushed off of the foundation. Either they never put in the foundation bolts to tie the plates to the foundation, or the wind was high enough, that it just tore the bolts out of the concrete, or tore them through the wood plate, when it was pushed aside.

It has just been crazy here today. My town went through night of two Tornado's that went right through town, then a couple years later during the day on New Years Eve, had another one. All three were EF2's, but any structure that got hit in the last one, 98% of them were still standing, with mostly blown out windows, roofs torn off, due to twenty years before they had the same thing happen to that same subdivision. They tightened the codes on rebuilding the homes in that neighborhood after the first Tornado.

As for your builder, point out the duct work issue, and make sure they fix that and any other items, before they cover it up. Also with the Master over the garage, big issue people complain about, is cold floors in those areas, because the builder does not check to make sure that duct work is installed properly, or insulation is doubled up in that cold zone, along with any pipes & wiring passing into the walls, are sealed to keep air from passing into the living spaces.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The electricians most likely only had 1 day to rough your entire house.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

beenthere said:


> The electricians most likely only had 1 day to rough your entire house.


With all of the homes that appear to being built around Dave's, I am guessing they are being paid by the structure, not hourly. Even if it is one day, how hard is it for the kid they have helping the boss, pay attention when they are pulling the wire.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

gregzoll said:


> With all of the homes that appear to being built around Dave's, I am guessing they are being paid by the structure, not hourly. Even if it is one day, how hard is it for the kid they have helping the boss, pay attention when they are pulling the wire.


Charter has no one man or mom and pop subs working for them. So it was a full crew roughing in each of those homes.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

gregzoll said:


> With all of the homes that appear to being built around Dave's, I am guessing they are being paid by the structure, not hourly. Even if it is one day, how hard is it for the kid they have helping the boss, pay attention when they are pulling the wire.


Why piece work? How do you draw that conclusion? 
I didn't know it was a 2 man crew- I've been in houses with electricians because we were behind or they were early- They stack 5 sparky's in there against 2 plumbers- wires flying everywhere


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

TheEplumber said:


> Why piece work? How do you draw that conclusion?
> I didn't know it was a 2 man crew- I've been in houses with electricians because we were behind or they were early- They stack 5 sparky's in there against 2 plumbers- wires flying everywhere


Did not imply that it was only a 2 man crew. Just that you would think that who ever pulled that run of wire, would have been thinking, then just in a rush to get that section done.

Probably was around break or lunch time possibly. Even I get in a hurry when I want to grab a bite, but when I do stuff, I still take the time to make sure I am not going to have something bite me, because I took a shortcut, or wanted to rush the job.

I found out when I had my son help me pull wire for the lighting in our Kitchen, that he did not pull out the excess from in the wall, when I had him helping me out. Found around fifteen feet in there, when I went to pull a line for the switch leg to the light over the sink.

At least I had enough 14/3 from that error, that I did not have to go out and buy 25' as I was thinking of doing, before I realized what he had done. Now of course if I had never found it, the next guy/gal that came along, would have thought that whoever did the electric was just storing extra wire in the wall on that leg for the dining room 3-way.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

beenthere said:


> Charter has no one man or mom and pop subs working for them. So it was a full crew roughing in each of those homes.


Around here, we have most times the contractors are one group of Sparky's, and are paying them by the build, not the hour, so you have subs rushing through their job, just so they can get to the next house, so they can make more money. In turn you end up finding mistakes and problems after they are done and gone.

The guy that roofed our house, stated that when we had the Ice Storm in 2006, he went through a brand new subdivision, with homes that were not even nine months old, and had to replace roofs on multiple homes. Most he said did not even have felt paper or Grace along the roof edge, or grace around the wood chimney stack, etc..


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

One of the best ways to judge a builder or their subs is by their housekeeping- 
I see one clean site here.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

TheEplumber said:


> One of the best ways to judge a builder or their subs is by their housekeeping-
> I see one clean site here.


You are correct on there. The majority of builds around my area are clean around the site, but you still tend to find some minor issues, but also have found some pretty major ones on a couple of builds that I was asked to go through, for someone that was looking to buy, that was relocating for my wife's company.

Knowing this is detracting from Dave's thread, but I look at it as a learning experience for all of us, and also helps Dave out, since he has more on his plate right now, and knowing his day job, I feel that he is as particular about the job being done right, and not having to worry about issues later on down the road.

Also I say catch the problems now, then find them later at the final walk through, or six months after you move in.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

First, don't concern yourself about the foundation hold-downs as that is one (major) item the field building inspector will catch/look for. Don't fret because of info supplied that may or may not pertain to your house/locale. 

*The good-* need explanation, just ask;

1. H2.5 truss to wall hardware (as you noticed)
2. wire/plumb holes in top/btm plates foamed
3. btm plate caulked per energy code
4. metal ties across wall plates installed
5. repair to studs with aprvd Simpson bracket
6. did gap OSB roof sheathing
7. did use mortar to set tub on
8. did insulate behind tub/shwr before install
9. did OSB on garage/house wall for lateral shear (not sound-proofing)
10. bonus- insulated gar. exterior wall- not required


*The bad;*

1. floor joist blocking at laps over bearing walls per code; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_5_par028.htm
the framers installed it and the subs removed it for ducts/pipes/etc. 
Pic. 10, 16, 19 and joist mid-span where duct ran through- should add a flat 2x4 to make sections w. blks = one unit across floor; Post 78, 79. The drywall will help though pick-up carpenter should have caught/replaced blks.w. 2x4. Blks missing at left of stairs in floor above. Pics. #6, 9, 10, solid blk missing.

2. Fire-blocking missing; top lip of tub and shower in wall, Pic. 15, 21, 24, per code; concealed spaces- #2; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par072.htm
fire-blocks missing in house wall at elevation of drop-ceiling in garage, Pic. 36.

They could easily add compressed fg rather than solid wood; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par073.htm

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par075.htm

No pics of foundation HDs but as I said- Doubt they are missing. The solid blocking for running floor joist (floor diaphragm shear-flow) appear to be missing, you need to check; Page 11 here; http://www.awc.org/pdf/WFCM_90-B-Guide.pdf
No tape on faced insulation= area weighed. If truss papers are still on site (for inspector) check on gable-end truss bracing every 10' (a diagonal brace running from top chord gable-end truss (only) at 45* angle down to bottom on a 2x4 across the bottom chords horizontally for wind shear bracing). Check near (within 6') of the attic access hole that Romex wires on truss chords are protected by wood boards from people stepping on, per code. 
These are are fairly minor things that I wouldn't lose sleep over, except the beam/post bearing in floor. I have seen way too many of those missing when checking framing. I would, however, insist they canned foam- low-expanding "window n door" all windows after removing the fg insulation. That is a major air infiltration area. And remember, IMHO.

Gary


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Gary, I'm not positive that the picture numbers you are listing are matching up to the ones I am looking at. Either that I am very confused.:laughing:

Would you mind posting pic #15 so that I can compare it to what I see, to make sure I am looking at the same thing as you?

Thank you!

Everyone else, I'll be around later to address some other things. Futzing with tile right now.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

"2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings."------ from; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par072.htm

And; 










Had a sharp County Inspector catch me on that (only) once as it is an air connection between vertical/horizontal spaces- from under the tub (horiz.) to above the tub in the wall (vertical). Others let it slide--- check locally with AHJ or ignore... they will feel bad enough they are still using fg to air seal around windows from a code change in 2009; #2 air barrier; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_par035.htm

as they now up-dated to 2012 code they should have been doing correctly years ago.

Gary
PS. if you weren't so busy we could give you correct procedure/materials for the tile- many tile pros here; O'Mike and Jazzman to name a couple.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

That's the aggravating thing about using Google+ for pictures. It defaults to "Highlights" instead of "All Pics" (top left), so unfortunately the numbers you are is not the same for others unless you have "All Pics" selected.  I can't find a setting to change that.

I'll have to learn the things you pointed out one thing at a time...the knowledge you are lending is awesome/great, yet, overwhelming to a new guy. I don't mean that negative, I like it. I just have a lot to look up and learn.

I apologize for the small pics, I'm on my laptop. I'll edit them when I am on the desktop so Google displays the bigger pics for me to pick from.


Regarding this:


> "2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings."------ from;http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_3_par072.htm


Here is a view of the other side of that wall. Is that fire blocking at the top there?














It looks like I caught the other bathroom in the corner of a couple other pics...is it there?


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

beenthere said:


> Charter has no one man or mom and pop subs working for them. So it was a full crew roughing in each of those homes.


Are you familiar with Charter I assume? What's your impression/experience with them? Not like I can change anything now. :thumbsup:


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

That would be for them to attach the drywall to. It is the same setup in my house from the late 1930's. Using the 1/2" or 5/8" plywood, allows them a place to attach the drywall, since they do not have a joist or rafter at that point where the wall is.

BTW, did you get a chance to ask the GC, if they will use Green Glue on that wall in the Garage, where the OSB is, before they put up the Drywall?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Dave88LX said:


> Are you familiar with Charter I assume? What's your impression/experience with them? Not like I can change anything now. :thumbsup:


My experience wasn't good. But that is from a contractor's perspective.

Lets just say, that they should hand out an extra large size Vaseline jar to their subs.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> That would be for them to attach the drywall to. It is the same setup in my house from the late 1930's. Using the 1/2" or 5/8" plywood, allows them a place to attach the drywall, since they do not have a joist or rafter at that point where the wall is.


Does it not also block off the attic, or is there supposed to be something else?

EDIT: If I am to read Gary right, it should be right above the tub inside the wall?



> BTW, did you get a chance to ask the GC, if they will use Green Glue on that wall in the Garage, where the OSB is, before they put up the Drywall?


I did not yet. Thanks for the reminder. The annoying thing is that they (understandably) have their way of doing things and can't really just tell them to do or change things as they go. 

One example is I asked if by chance when they wired the garage, if I could drop off some 12/2 so that I could have 20A out there instead. Answer was no, it's a liability, if a fire starts and it's determined that something is wrong with the wire etc. etc. I understand that they have their rules they have to follow, on that same coin, I can find out, but can't make them do anything either.

Next house I'm going to have one of you guys GC it!:laughing:


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

beenthere said:


> My experience wasn't good. But that is from a contractor's perspective.
> 
> Lets just say, that they should hand out an extra large size Vaseline jar to their subs.


That's unfortunate...Vaseline is so 80s. They couldn't even step it up to KY? J/K. That does stink though.




Gary in WA said:


> The good- need explanation, just ask;
> 
> 4. metal ties across wall plates installed
> 5. repair to studs with aprvd Simpson bracket


I understood everything but these two things...



Regarding the missing cross-bracing, are these pieces of metal supposed to replace those? Or are they supports for the duct?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Dave I know you got alot going on here but check out this thread on fire blocking- particularly post #12
I haven't followed all of this thread but this might be what Gary is referring to


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

That is ridiculous, that they would not let you spec out for 20 amp circuits, or even if you wanted a charging station for a electric vehicle. How hard is it going to be for you to pull your own later on?

As for that plywood, no it is just there for attachment at the top plate. I was surprised that my house has it up on the top plate, due to the age of the house, and that they were just starting to manufacture plywood, because of military aircraft and water craft that we were building at that time for England and our country.

Going back to wanting 20 amp circuits in the garage, because of how they have done the walls & that the ceiling is insulated, you may be best to use conduit and paint it to match the wall color. My other suggestion, would be to place just a couple on that back wall where the OSB is, using an external box and conduit, and then just use a heavy duty cord on a reel, when you need that extra amperage.

I keep a couple of #10 extension cords in my garage, when I need to power equipment while outside, that would trip a 15 amp breaker. Of course when I redid my garage, I put in 20 amp circuits for outlets, and 15 amp circuit for lighting out there. Now that I have a welder, and want to get a 90 amp Mig, I really need to pull #8 or #6, so I can have the extra amperage out there for that kind of stuff.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> Dave I know you got alot going on here but check out this thread on fire blocking- particularly post #12
> I haven't followed all of this thread but this might be what Gary is referring to


Think ya missed the link...which thread?

Yeah I have a lot going on, got that right! I'm still 2-3 pages of replies behind on some of the things in this thread. My "list" of things I need to finish in this current house before my renter takes it over is pretty huge too. 

It sucks that the new place is 1 hour 10 minutes away (without Baltimore traffic), so I can't really get there as often as I would like to.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

It is more of support of the duct work up there than anything. They have metal ones that would have worked with the duct work being in there. How far down is the next bar from that one? Is it where the other set of cross bracing is?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Geez- I got to supply you with the link too? :jester: http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

We better hurry and push the views on this thread. Right now the German House rebuild thread, is 708,422 views, 2,521 posts. Dave, you have a lot of work on your shoulders, to beat Shumaker Scott in his rebuild. 

If you have not looked at it Dave, it is http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/german-house-rebuild-23424/ Just do not show the wife the after pictures, show her only the before and the man shop.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> We better hurry and push the views on this thread. Right now the German House rebuild thread, is 708,422 views, 2,521 posts. Dave, you have a lot of work on your shoulders, to beat Shumaker Scott in his rebuild.
> 
> If you have not looked at it Dave, it is http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/german-house-rebuild-23424/ Just do not show the wife the after pictures, show her only the before and the man shop.


Tell you what's funny! This thread has 2155 views when I just checked.

Before my wife decided, I mean, we decided to move and have a house built, I was doing a LOT of work and remodeling on this house (most of it before I found this forum unfortunately). I created this thread 2 years ago with full intentions of renovating my basement before I got torn in 20 different directions with my job, had a second child etc., and it never came to fruition.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/basement-remodel-help-efficient-layout-diagram-incl-123007/

Views: 2,055
Replies: 0

:lol:

When I have some time to kill (read: relaxing in the new house) I will have to take a seat and read over that thread.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I have found that some threads fall off at times. Especially around that time, the board was really busy, so some things got missed. Maybe now since you brought it up, someone will bring that one back to life.

If you do a search for "Pellet Stove" on there, he has a really nice setup for his boiler in the rebuilt home, and same for his Pellet furnace in his living room. I like how he did his Man cave upstairs, with corks on the wall. He is ex-Army, and did IED training with NATO troops. I do not know what he does now, since he does not really talk much about it in the thread.

Scott has given a lot of good ideas on re-purposing stuff, or even with how he used LED lighting for his garage, which is a shelter that he has insulated, and built wood walls inside. The guy knows his stuff, and has a lot of good ideas in that thread as I stated before.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

In Post 98, the tub fire-blocks should be just above the tub-in-line with the tub lip to stop any fire from a horiz. chase from going to a vertical chase/stud cavity. On the left of the tub where the walls create a chase, there should be an air barrier (fire-block) keeping the under tub space separate from the wall chase. Same with shower, at the lip of the top of fg unit if a single wall next to it. 

Another *picture of the snake-like bends* in your fan foil flex ducting (that exits at gable truss) in attic at last picture- is that from bath fan would be nice? 

This is not an Energy Star Home, is it?

Gary
PS. They used air barrier (housewrap) correctly) behind shower but forgot behind/below tub-- if it is ESH. Pages 27-29; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNHo-gFTDNky-DET8Cy4WHFRXnsGzA&cad=rja


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