# Aprilaire 700 Wiring For Manual Mode



## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

The manual shows how to hook up a manual control too. From the transformer to the humidistat, to whatever device you're using to detect that the fan is on, (ie. Relay, current sensor, sail switch, etc), to the solenoid, and back to the transformer. 

Cheers!


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

You have to make sure the humidifier terminals are 120v to see if u need the transformer or not.

you take the wire from the furnace, run it through the humidistat and to the humidifier.

It's like wiring a light switch.

One wire colour gets twisted together and the other colour is done in series with the humidistat so it can break the circuit.

If you're putting humidistat on return air drop, you have to follow the instructions and modify it for duct mount.

On the most suitable humidistats for return duct mount, you cut a hole in the duct and the sensing element extends into the return drop.

It needs to sense the humidity of the air in the return, not the furnace room.

Why isn't your hvac sub doing this work?


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

user_12345a said:


> ...
> Why isn't your hvac sub doing this work?


I think he DIY'd it. 


Cheers!


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

user_12345a said:


> Y
> Why isn't your hvac sub doing this work?


Thanks.
No more hacks allowed into my new house from here on in.

The control is already mounted to the duct with the probulator sniffing the air inside the return duct.

I am doing full manual control. The only thing cycling this on and off is the humidity being sensed.
The transformer turns on with heating blower fan. This is controlling power on/off cycles.
If you notice the drawing, it shows just two wires entering the control.
The drawing does not indicate which terminals they hook up to.


Looking at the fully automatic wiring diagram, they are hooked up to H and H. I tried this and nothing happened. I then hooked up 24 volts to R and C and the control panel came to life. I tried the two wires to the humidifier on H and H but that didn't wake it up.
No voltage at those terminals wired this way.


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## Dog5 (Jan 3, 2011)

Here's how ours is wired:


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

The manual version doesn't have any extra terminals. You don't even get the fancy control. Are you sure that you don't have the automatic version? 

The wires that are supposed to be hooked up to H and H are the solenoid that I mentioned above. You don't use the automatic control at all if you are not using that function. 

Cheers!


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## Dog5 (Jan 3, 2011)

If the outdoor temperature sensor is not used, a shunt resistor (provided) has to be put in its place.

Do you know a place in the GTA to get the water panels for these things? The place I buy them from is now selling an aftermarket one and the price has gone way up.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Dog5 said:


> ....
> 
> Do you know a place in the GTA to get the water panels for these things? The place I buy them from is now selling an aftermarket one and the price has gone way up.


None that are consumers friendly. Wholesalers generally don't sell to the public. 

Fleabay? Amaz0n? 

Cheers!


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

"If the outdoor temperature sensor is not used, a shunt resistor (provided) has to be put in its place.

Do you know a place in the GTA to get the water panels for these things? The place I buy them from is now selling an aftermarket one and the price has gone way up."

you've got PM.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

As for the shunt resister... If it comes with it, then sure use it. Personally, I'd just throw the whole control in the box and not use it. 

Cheers!


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> No more hacks allowed into my new house from here on in.
> 
> The control is already mounted to the duct with the probulator sniffing the air inside the return duct.
> ...


I thought you were using a manual humidistat. Different.

I also didn't know this is fan powered, first time looking at manual.

this is my take on it based on manual, i have only done bypass with simple humidistat.....

Furnace----------humidistat--------humidifier

R-------------------R
C-------------------C
. ......................... ODT (not hooked up or goes to sensor)
............................. ODT (ditto)
If your accessory terminals are 120V, do not use the transformer and run the humidifier off the furnace's transformer. If 24v, you can use the accessory terminal on the hot side and connect C to Cf like normal. 
W1 gets energized with a call for heat and humidifier will come on before the blower does, shut off when the call for heat ends. 

The control may be expecting all low voltages signals to be in perfect phase or share a common so using 120v accessory terminals may or may not cause issues.

W1-----------------W/G 
C-------------------Cf
............................ H---------------------------------------humidifier low volt connection
............................. H---------------------------------------humidifier low volt connection


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Do you have a simple mechanical style humidistat or only the one that came with the humidifier? 

Cheers!


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Dog5 said:


> Here's how ours is wired:


Thanks.

So, both H and H are hooked up?

Mine didn't come with a shunt resistor or mention one.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

supers05 said:


> The manual version doesn't have any extra terminals. You don't even get the fancy control. Are you sure that you don't have the automatic version?
> 
> The wires that are supposed to be hooked up to H and H are the solenoid that I mentioned above. You don't use the automatic control at all if you are not using that function.
> 
> Cheers!


For manual, you get the same control but they give you a sticker to put on it showing the %'s.

The solenoid wires also go to a relay that must trip to allow the fan to run and I believe to trip the solenoid because I have no fan or no water when hooked up to H and H.


I think I will dial the knob and see if the voltage clicks on and off to see if this control works w/o being lit up. If 24 v at H and H and it cycles on and off, the problem must be with the relay, no?

I didn't hear any "clicks" until I energized R and C though.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Dog5 said:


> If the outdoor temperature sensor is not used, a shunt resistor (provided) has to be put in its place.
> 
> Do you know a place in the GTA to get the water panels for these things? The place I buy them from is now selling an aftermarket one and the price has gone way up.


Lowes. About 15 bucks and you need one every year.

I may rip this POS down and install the basic drum style. My last one worked fine. Don't know how I got talked into using this thing....
And I had the same sponge on there for a few years before changing it I believe.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

user_12345a said:


> "If the outdoor temperature sensor is not used, a shunt resistor (provided) has to be put in its place.
> 
> Do you know a place in the GTA to get the water panels for these things? The place I buy them from is now selling an aftermarket one and the price has gone way up."
> 
> you've got PM.


Post it up please.
Or pm me also.
Thanks.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

supers05 said:


> As for the shunt resister... If it comes with it, then sure use it. Personally, I'd just throw the whole control in the box and not use it.
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks.

At this point, thinking about it, I'm quite certain that the problem lays with the relay in the unit.

I let all the letters on the screw terminal block get to me. I see these things as magic letters or something. It's still a switch no matter what. On or off.
The two wires only need to be hooked up to the two terminals that cycle with the knob depending where it's set. It's either calling for moisture or not.

A basic control is sounding more like it.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

user_12345a said:


> I thought you were using a manual humidistat. Different.
> 
> I also didn't know this is fan powered, first time looking at manual.
> 
> ...


Thanks.

I am using manual mode of this humidistat.
I refuse to drill a hole in my new wall to shove the probulator outside.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

supers05 said:


> Do you have a simple mechanical style humidistat or only the one that came with the humidifier?
> 
> Cheers!


Just the one that came with it.

As mentioned, a basic unit is sounding good at this time.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I am using manual mode of this humidistat.
> I refuse to drill a hole in my new wall to shove the probulator outside.


Now I understand. This is the automatic version you just want to run it in manual mode. Wire it just like in automatic mode. You still need that shunt resister to replace the outdoor probe. 

Cheers!


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

supers05 said:


> Now I understand. This is the automatic version you just want to run it in manual mode. Wire it just like in automatic mode. You still need that shunt resister to replace the outdoor probe.
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks, but no shunt resister with this model.

I'm picking up a basic humidistat on the way home today.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks, but no shunt resister with this model.
> 
> I'm picking up a basic humidistat on the way home today.


That'll keep things simple. There will be 3 terminals on most of them. Common and N.O. are what you want to use. (if there's only 2 pins, even better.) Polarity doesn't matter. 

Transformer --> humidistat --> solenoid --> sail switch (or similar) --> transformer

Cheers!


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

supers05 said:


> That'll keep things simple. There will be 3 terminals on most of them. Common and N.O. are what you want to use. (if there's only 2 pins, even better.) Polarity doesn't matter.
> 
> Transformer --> humidistat --> solenoid --> sail switch (or similar) --> transformer
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks.

No switch req'd. Transformer is only energized with blower using HUM and NEUTRAL to power it.

I'm pretty sure it still won't work as I've already had 24 volts to the unit and fan and solenoid did not engage.

I think the first thing I will do when I get home is to hook up 24 volts from the transformer, bypassing the controls, to see if the unit works.

I've been thinking about the magic letters too much. Back to basics.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> No switch req'd. Transformer is only energized with blower using HUM and NEUTRAL to power it.
> 
> ...


Correct. 
...
I like basics. 

Cheers!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The H and H terminals wire to the humidifier. But you also need to have power from the transformer going to R and C.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

beenthere said:


> The H and H terminals wire to the humidifier. But you also need to have power from the transformer going to R and C.


Thanks.

I did exactly that and got the control board lit up but nothing else.
H and H was showing zero volts.
Control panel will hit the trash unless my friend with the same unit wants it for a spare.

I did however stop at Lowes on the way home.

But, holy cow, what a lot of water down the drain. Hot, at that.
I really have a feeling that I'll rip this POS down and get a basic drum style unit that shuts off the water when the tray is full.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

That bucket was full within an hour.


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

^I only sent a pm because i'm not sure if the company still sells to anyone - it used to be doesn't have a store where u can walk in any more. 

For the humidifier, just turn the valve down to reduce flow.

drum units are garbage.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

user_12345a said:


> drum units are garbage.


Everyone says this.

Why?

I installed one and it could steam up my windows, so it must have been working just fine.


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## Dog5 (Jan 3, 2011)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> So, both H and H are hooked up?
> 
> Mine didn't come with a shunt resistor or mention one.


Well I can assure you that blue thing in the photo isn't something I found locally! As I said, it's needed. I just took it out and measured it, it's 47k ohms. Note the 'k'. When I removed it, a red led came on.

So this could be a 5 cent fix if you can find an electronics store. There's A1, but they're in South Etobicoke.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Dog5 said:


> Well I can assure you that blue thing in the photo isn't something I found locally! As I said, it's needed. I just took it out and measured it, it's 47k ohms. Note the 'k'. When I removed it, a red led came on.
> 
> So this could be a 5 cent fix if you can find an electronics store. There's A1, but they're in South Etobicoke.


Thanks.
I'll mention that to my friend who will relieve me of this control tomorrow.

22 bucks and I'm on to simplicity.
Sweet.

Does your unit use a ton of water? I had to hook mine up to hot because I could only install it on the air return duct.


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

123pugsy said:


> Everyone says this.
> 
> Why?
> 
> I installed one and it could steam up my windows, so it must have been working just fine.


disgusting Maintenance nightmare!

They're disgusting because no one cleans them. If you have time to remove the tray and clean it every 3 to 4 weeks, drum may be okay.

Otherwise the unit scales up and after a year of no maintenance looks more like a failed biology experiment than a humidifier. Mold, bacteria, yellowish water, scale. yuck.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I did exactly that and got the control board lit up but nothing else.
> H and H was showing zero volts.
> ...



I hope you didn't mount it on the return. The 700 doesn't work too well mounted on the return. The 600 does, because its a bypass. But powered ones don't.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

beenthere said:


> I hope you didn't mount it on the return. The 700 doesn't work too well mounted on the return. The 600 does, because its a bypass. But powered ones don't.


Thanks.

Instructions say mount it there if no room elsewhere. When doing so, use hot water, which I did.

So, they're full of it and now I'm toast. 

We'll find out after I move in next month how it performs.
I'll just leave it for now.


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## Dog5 (Jan 3, 2011)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> I'll mention that to my friend who will relieve me of this control tomorrow.
> 
> 22 bucks and I'm on to simplicity.
> ...


A fair bit, yes. I hooked it up to the cold water line and put it on the supply duct and it keeps the house just right on the highest setting, 7 I think.

Sorry you weren't happy but I would recommend this unit to anyone who asked me.


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

All humidifiers have disadvantages - you get to choose between very high maintenance, very high water use, or very high electricity use. (referring to steam here)


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

I reduce the water flow down to a trickle out of the drain. I only use ball valves for the supply. Enough of keep it flushed but not enough to be wasteful. 

Cheers!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Instructions say mount it there if no room elsewhere. When doing so, use hot water, which I did.
> 
> ...


Yeah, the water would need to be a min of 140°F/60°C to actually get close to the 700's abilities, that it has mounted on the supply plenum.


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