# Air coming through west wall electrical outlets



## lmholmes11 (Jul 18, 2008)

If it's a breezy day and the wind is coming from the west (predominate wind) you can feel cold air seeping through most electrical outlets. I tried the pre formed foam outlet deals from HD but didn't help much. Any ideas?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

They need to be installed properly as just putting them on doesn't stop the air flow.

Ideally...they are caulked to the drywall and you must put the cut outs for the spade plugs, back over the plugs and then plug them back in.

Where there aren't plugs in use, use the child safety plugs in their place.


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## lmholmes11 (Jul 18, 2008)

Thanks!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The source farther up stream needs to be stopped. If it is stopped at the plate the air is still getting into the wall. Even on interior walls cold air from the attic can come down inside the walls if the drywall wasn't sealed at the top plate during construction and that's basically unheard of.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

You need to crawl the attic and the vented crawl space, if you have one. Foam every electrical and plumbing penetration of the top and bottom plates.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I don't see it mentioned; foam the wire entrance/exit to the box also. Better when plastic as metal ones have numerous holes. Not with knob&tube, though.

Gary


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## lmholmes11 (Jul 18, 2008)

Thanks for all the reply's. I will foam the boxes. I agree with that I need to find the source 'up stream'. The only electrical/ gas lines in are on the North side of the house. I will seal around those also. We do have a few electrical outlets outside on the west side of the house, I'll seal around those too


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Gary in WA said:


> I don't see it mentioned; foam the wire entrance/exit to the box also. Better when plastic as metal ones have numerous holes. Not with knob&tube, though.
> 
> Gary


+1

You can, in theory, seal those from inside with some spray foam, but that is not necessarily recommended for your DIY'er.

By placing the cuts outs of the gaskets over the spades on the plug and plugging it back in, you seal the spade outlets on the female receptacle and seal the envelope at the drywall layer. 



lmholmes11 said:


> Thanks for all the reply's. I will foam the boxes. I agree with that I need to find the source 'up stream'. The only electrical/ gas lines in are on the North side of the house. I will seal around those also. We do have a few electrical outlets outside on the west side of the house, I'll seal around those too


+1 to the other comments. 

While a good sealing measure, the bulk air sealing and insulation will help mitigate what you are feeling at the wall outlets.


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## GrayHair (Apr 9, 2015)

It sounds like the infiltration you still experience is through the electrical box. As mentioned above. a metal box provides multiple paths for infiltration. With plastic boxes, cable entry ports are usually the only source (with some plastic boxes you may also need to seal unused ports).

Here's a possible solution if you have metal boxes. It may be more than you want to tackle, but consider installing an approved, thin, moldable "mat" inside the box. (*I do not know if there is such a product approved for installation inside and electrical box.*)


Locate the breaker/fuse for the receptacle and turn it off.
Test the outlet to confirm you killed power to the circuit you are working on.
Remove the outlet from the box taking note of how the wire is placed in the box.
Install the "mat", conforming it securely to all five sides of the box.
Reinstall receptacle, foam gasket and receptacle cover.
Return power to the circuit and test the receptacle.
I don't know if foam is approved for use inside electrical boxes, but if it is, be aware of the difference between low-expansion and high-expansion foams.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Saved me some typing, lol. If electrical scares you, do not attempt to remove the one screw holding the face-plate on to add the poly gasket. Nor the two screws holding the outlet receptacle on, or pulling the outlet with wires attached away a few inches, to add fire rated foam in the holes only- or the complete assembly of it all. Foam would seal the electrical contacts inside the outlet itself against wind/moisture. I have removed some with rust on screws, coating on copper. Why do we even have a DIY "electrical" forum... .

Gary


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## lmholmes11 (Jul 18, 2008)

Thanks guys. I removed all the outlets and put a little fire rated foam in all the holes. Im also searching for the source as to why the air is getting inside the walls in the first place.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Chimney/Stack effect.

As mentioned previously, you need to air seal and insulate the home. That will lessen the air coming in at all the other locations.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If no holes from below (crawlspace/basement) through the sub-floor to the wall cavity, the sheathing could be leaking air due to gaps from expanding/contracting against the studs due to humidity/temperature changes with the weather/seasons. As the attic exhaust air due to warm air rising, it is replaced with outside air, If supply inlets at soffits/eaves is not sufficient, air is drawn from any lower opening in the attic floor surface. http://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-035-we-need-to-do-it-different-this-time

Plug them all, as said; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...sg=AFQjCNHwd56o0AxLi8-V03E5cMUmwWATQw&cad=rja 

Then plug the ones in the crawl/basement. Super job; remove the baseboard and caulk there, foam around ceiling boxes and lights (if "IC" rated with proper choice). Check under the tub drain in crawl, etc.

http://www.homeenergy.org/show/article/nav/troubleshooting/page/2/id/1360

Gary


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## lmholmes11 (Jul 18, 2008)

Thanks you guys, a lot of help. Im going to have an audit done I think.


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