# no wall insulation



## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

langless28 said:


> he recommended that we do blown in insulation as well as adding another 6" of blown in into the attic. what are the pros and cons of this insulation method?


It's a plain vanilla, cut to the chase, most for least prescription.

There are a few details to sort through for what might be appropriate to do right before or along with these jobs (like attic eave vents, and cat walks, locating and adding to any attic wiring, etc)... but doing the insulation work isn't really a choice.

hth


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## langless28 (Nov 20, 2011)

TarheelTerp said:


> It's a plain vanilla, cut to the chase, most for least prescription.
> 
> There are a few details to sort through for what might be appropriate to do right before or along with these jobs (like attic eave vents, and cat walks, locating and adding to any attic wiring, etc)... but doing the insulation work isn't really a choice.
> 
> hth


the roof is newer and has a full length ridge vent, along with two gable vents. he did the calc's and said my attic is actually a little over vented. i had planned on adding soffit vents but i guess i do not have to now. 

i would like a catwalk up there so i would need to first discuss this? 

and i will eventually be doing some wiring changes up there (adding overhead lighting in the rooms etc. but that is not in the immediate future. 


he quoted me a what i believe fair price (we have a rebate too) for all that work to be done. the only thing is there is already a 10 week lead time 

also this service would include all the wall insulation, attic insulation, attic door insulation, air sealing, and blower door test.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Given the home is 50+ years old, you probably have so many coats of paint on the interior walls that they are functioning as a Class 2 Vapor retarder at that point. 

What is the exterior of the home?

Getting everything sealed up and air tight on the interior (and attic side) is the key to controlling moisture and any mold/mildew problems.


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## langless28 (Nov 20, 2011)

the exterior is painted ceder shingles. 

the attic will be air sealed

i am going to tackle insulating/sealing the rim joist area this weekend with rigid foam, i do have about 10' long exterior wall that has 2' overhang in the living room area so i have those deep rim joists there; not sure the best way to go about insulating that (obviously spray foam but its such a small area i can justify the cost)


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Blowing it in the walls is the only way unless you remove all the outside siding or remove the inside wall material be it plaster or sheetrock.
It's not going to be perfect but it will be better then nothing.
It will settle over time leaving spaces at the top, as it's going in it willtend to pile up where wires cross the studs, if there's any diaganal bracing in the corners there will be a void under them.
If there's going to be an electrical up grade (whole new panel, new wiring to lights and outlets) or there's old failing plaster I'd go a differant route.
Have the old windows been replaced yet? That alone would save you a ton of money.
Adding something as foam pads behind the outlet and switch covers, sealing up all the holes in the crawl space or basement where they ran wiring and plumbing with expanding foam will help and it's DIY.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

A pretty cool product that I saw tested and actually filled 95% of the bay and will not settle over time is "Tripolymer 105". We had the contractor marketing the product fill a bay and then rip off the interior sheathing so we could see the results. It was installed within the stud bays through two 2-1/2" diameter holes.

Here is a picture after the contractor removed the wall sheathing and you can see where we pealed back the existing kraft paper to see how much of the bay was filled.


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## langless28 (Nov 20, 2011)

i read somewhere that its better to blow it in from the bottom then the top? is there a method i should stay away from?

the sheetrock is in pretty good shape so i will not be tearing any walls down. 

i would avoid a expanding foam type deal because in the event of adding new circuits/ fixes it would impossible to fish wires. this is a first starter home for me so i think it will suffice. 

joe, the windows are the newer vinyl insert types that go in the original window jambs and when i do the trim over in the rooms, i will spray foam that area, and i already spray foamed the tiny triangular area between the bottom of the windows and bottom of the existing sill plate. and like i said i will tackle most of the rim joists in the immediate future.


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## Phillies48 (Jan 6, 2012)

I would definitely get the insulation installed as soon as possible. There is a chance that the insulation will grow mold but shouldn't the guy who have suggested getting insulation have warned you about that? The guys who install the insulation will be able to tell if it is going to get moldy. 

Because your house is older, you must take caution when doing all of this but you want to make sure the job is done right. Insulation in your home is definitely going to help you and your home out in a variety of ways.


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

langless28 said:


> the roof is newer and has a full length ridge vent, along with two gable vents. he did the calc's and said my attic is actually a little over vented.


the gable vents work against the ridge vents...
it's a one or the other thing and most will say ridge is best.
on that basis... and as you have ridge vents a plan to close up the gables is in order.



> i had planned on adding soffit vents but i guess i do not have to now.


Er no.... If anything this is the #1 thing you need to do.
(and before adding anything else in your way up there)

But you should already have at least some eave vents.
The ide is to be sure they are enough and won't be blocked when insulation is set.



> i would like a catwalk up there so i would need to first discuss this?


3/4" Plywood sheet ripped to 16 or 24"... screwed down to the top of the rafter in a KNOWN pattern. (Thats right down the middle for most.)



> and i will eventually be doing some wiring changes up there (adding overhead lighting in the rooms etc. but that is not in the immediate future.


Plan it. think of coax and speakers and hdmi and ceiling fans too...
at the least be sure what is currently there is secure with known location



> he quoted me a what i believe fair price (we have a rebate too) for all that work to be done. the only thing is there is already a 10 week lead time


that's a good sign. Good contractors stay busy. 
But there isn't anything described here that isn't DIY-able
(except the in wall work which is more an equipment/PITA thing than hard)

hth


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If they are dense-packing the cellulose in the walls only, there won't be any settling or dead spots; http://www.karg.com/pdf/Presentations/Dense_Pack_Cellulose_Insulation.pdf

The rust spots are from the conditioned (with moisture) air from inside going through the outlets due to the "stack effect", natural and mechanical; http://www.wag-aic.org/1999/WAG_99_baker.pdf

Foamboard the 2' overhang, add plywood: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-009-new-light-in-crawlspaces/

If he's really good, he will recommend air sealing behind/under the shoe moulding or baseboard (depends on the gaps)...... after he smoke tests it. 

You want more soffit vents than exhaust; http://www.inspectapedia.com/interiors/atticcond10.htm

Gary


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