# Water Pressure Regulator replacement - can I do this myself?



## markwo (Nov 25, 2009)

Hi,

I just closed on my first house last week. I don't have much experience in home repairs, but I am generally mechanically inclined.

My water pressure regulator is faulty, and the pressure in the house is 160psi.

I've never done any pipe soldering or plumbing work at all, really. How feasible is this for my first project? If I do it myself, what do I need to watch out for? What supplies do I need? A torch, solder, flux?

I was quoted $280 for professional replacement. A 3/4" Watts N45B at Lowes is $29. The installed part is a Watts N35B, which has been discontinued. How do I know which new part is the right part?

Here are pictures of the work area: Photo 1 Photo 2.

I appreciate any and all input!


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## themow (Nov 25, 2009)

its a 1 hr job....that looks like a pressure reducing valve......all of the fittings are available at lowes....shut that reb knob off and start taking it apart then bring everything with you to lowes and ask for help....get pipe dope...have fun learn


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Unless I'm looking at the pics wrong, there is no soldering involved. Those are all threaded fittings. Starting with the main shut-off valve (red handle) and continuing on: there's a pipe nipple, then the part with the hex nut which is part of the PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve). Note: there is probably a flat fiber type washer inside this hex nut for sealing purposes. It appears that the hex-shaped connection nipple is screwed into the PRV that goes to the water meter. IF, oh only IF, you could find this exact type of PRV, then you would only have to unscrew a few fittings to change it out. The difference between the older N35B and the newer N45B may not be significant. As stated, once you have the parts out, take them with you. Personally, I would suggest using a local plumbing supply store rather than a big box store. Yes, you may pay a little more, but at the plumbing supply store those guys/gals know so much more about what you are doing and they give much better advice. David


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## TJ_in_IL (Aug 24, 2009)

Can't help but ask, but why is the name of the first picture "jerk"? LOL


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## markwo (Nov 25, 2009)

Because the valve is a jerk for failing and causing me to replace it!  Just kidding, and trying to be a little funny.. I understand they put up with a lot and it's probably amazing that they last as long as they do.

Thanks for the input, themow and Thurman. I wasn't sure if the threaded fittings were soldered or not. Is any kind of sealant or other product used on them? I assume that is the "pipe dope." Any specific kind to look for?

Is the joint with a hex nut not a union joint that is soldered and then the nut screwed on? That's what I gathered from my home improvement books.. but I'm new to all of this.

I do believe the N45B at Lowe's has the same fittings on both ends as my current one. Good suggestion to check a plumber's supply store though, I will see if I can find any reputable ones in my area.

Thanks!


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

PLUMBING SUPPLY STORES

I don't know where you guys are from but I know where I am from If you aren't a Licensed Plumber or have an account at the supply house they.

Intimidate you.

Charge high prices

Laugh at you

Talk about you between themselves

Do not really help

Will not even sell to you 

So I will avoid the supply houses that I do not frequent.


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## meboatermike (Oct 29, 2009)

*Plumbing supply stores*

Sultini, I agree that the regular old line "plumbing supply houses" can be that way however. in the Lewiston, Maine area where I work there is a local supply house that is extremely helpful and have real good luck at for parts and advice. I have had good luck finding parts at Lowes also (their hours are much longer then the local place) but sometimes you have to hunt and hunt for the parts you need.


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## markwo (Nov 25, 2009)

Teflon tape or pipe dope on these joints, or both? Thanks!


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## meboatermike (Oct 29, 2009)

*Water pressure regulator replacement -- teflon or pipe dope*

I have had better luck over the years with pipe dope but many people swear be teflon tape (just not me); use one or the other but not both;


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## markwo (Nov 25, 2009)

I put a new valve in, and whenever water was run through it, it mades a horrible squealing noise and vibrated. The metal tag bounced up and down incredibly quickly. The noise would sometimes come and go and happened at a few various pressure settings.

I wasn't sure if I messed something up, or if the valve was bad. Bought a 2nd valve, and put it in. Seems to work fine, except the right joint keeps dripping. I took it off and put it back on a few times (with teflon tape) and it continues to drip (slowly).

Guess I will try some of that pipe dope afterall..


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## Edward 38 (Dec 7, 2009)

*try blackman,or call your water company maybe they can tell you wher to get o lower r*

,


markwo said:


> Hi,
> 
> I just closed on my first house last week. I don't have much experience in home repairs, but I am generally mechanically inclined.
> 
> ...


close the main valve a bit.


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## Edward 38 (Dec 7, 2009)

that regulater on that pic. dont look very new the springs are probaly freed up inside it allowing to much flow


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## Edward 38 (Dec 7, 2009)

i would try a strictly plumbing store


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Sounds like the second regulator is OK with the exception of the drip.

Don't get discouraged and run out and spend more money, relax think about it, remove it and re Teflon it, do not tighten both sides real tight, 
put it together hand tight as much as you can then tighten it a little bit open the main slow look for leaks and snug it up little bit at a time.

NOTE: There is a little trick with Teflon most DIYers do not know when you put it on go in the direction the nut is turning always follow the direction of the threads and DON"T put to much on 2 wraps at the most I try 1 1/2 most of the time.
Good luck.


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