# Wood Counter Tops



## billinak (Mar 16, 2005)

I'm in the process of planning a kitchen remodel and we're considering wood countertops. Has any one had any experience with these? It looks like there's a difference between actual butcher block and regular wood, but I'm not sure how they will stand up in the long run. Do you think it would look goofy to have wood cabinets and wood countertops?


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## LanterDan (Jul 3, 2006)

billinak, I'm currently in the proccess of building butcher block counter tops from scratch (edge grain, 2/3 maple, 1/3 walnut). We have dark wood cabinets with go well with the walnut, while the rest of the kitchen is a light beige with goes well with the maple. I'm very pleased with the appearence of the pieces I have so far. I'm less sure how a single species wood countertop would look with wood cabinets, but that would depend on the type of wood the cabinets were, and how much color/grain variation there was in the countertop. 

As for the the durability, time will tell. I'm rather optimistic (or I wouldn't be doing this) but I don't intend to cut directly on the countertop. I do expect the counterops to show some signs of wear, but I think this will occur in a manner that will add character. I'm fairly confident any damage to them can be sanded out and refinished.


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Sorry I didn't see this thread till today but I have done solid wood counter tops and used an epoxy finish that is hard as nails. Here are some pictures of tops that I have done.


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## billinak (Mar 16, 2005)

Thanks for the replies, I think I'll get the cabinets figured out first, then check out some of the countertop options.


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## exumjames (Jan 20, 2008)

*Epoxy wooden countertops*

Hi, this is my first post and I am hoping to talk to the gentleman who makes custom woodencountertops with an epoxy coating. (I saw a note from him on a previous post.)
Ok, this is it. I am getting ready to put Russian birch countertops in my new kitchen and want to seal them with a 1/16" coating of epoxy. I have tried to do my homework and make sure I know what I am doing, but I still have questions. Where do I buy the epoxy and how do I know that the epoxy I am buying is food safe? 

Also, I know epoxy is hard as a rock, but is it cut resistant and burn resistant if my daughter were to set a hot pot on it? I can just see my beautiful finish melting! 

Also, last question, I promise. What about sinks. I really want to install an undermount sink. Should I just epoxy coat the raw edges from the cut out? 

I do hope someone can help. I look forward to getting started on this project and really am excited about the possibilities of epoxy!

Thanks so much,
Carissa


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

The epoxy is not burn or cut resistant. You shouldn't be cutting directly on your countertops anyway. It is not heat resistant either. I've had to repair one where something hot was set on it and it caused an ugly bubble. I was able to cut the bubble out, fill the hole and then apply a new coat to the whole top. You had to look hard to see where the repair was made. My customer was very satisfied.

Any of the epoxies that are a bar type finish will work no matter what the brand. They are all food safe to my knowledge also. Some paint stores carry it or you can purchase it online.

I would not attempt an undermount sink. I can forsee too many problems and personally I would refuse if asked to do it.

Here is another kitchen countertop that I just finished about a month or so ago.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Big Dave said:


> ...Here is another kitchen countertop that I just finished about a month or so ago.


....:sleep1: ...show off....



:wink:


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

It's what I do best.:laughing: 

I'm at the end of making 50, 4' table tops for a restaurant. I've gone through about 50 gallons of that epoxy. I'll be glad when they are all done.

Here's the first 30 that we delivered.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Nice job. That'll lead to some good referrals and no-cost advertising :thumbsup:


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## exumjames (Jan 20, 2008)

Thank you so much. Wish me luck! I am sure mine will not turn out like yours, but I'm going to give it a shot. I have a fabulous supply of Russian birch that is unbelievably beautiful.
www


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## Ginny (Nov 24, 2008)

Is this thread still open to some questions?


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Ginny said:


> Is this thread still open to some questions?


Sure, but you'd be smarter to start your own new thread with your specific questions. 

Welcome to DIY Chatroom!


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## ironhorse2004 (Dec 17, 2012)

*Epoxy Resin Kitchen Table*

I am in the process of making a epoxy resin counter top for my wife for Christmas. I calculated the amout of resin it would take and then ordered extra. Well the resin soaked in between the barn wood slates a lot more than I figured. I have two questions?
1) The instructions for the resin said I can sand the first layer of hard resin with 220 grit sand paper and wipe clean with acetone. Am I going to be able to see the scratches in the first coate?
2) I rushed the resin and pored a little thick and so I have bubbles that have raised the surface of the dried resin and did not pop. What is the best route to take to fix them. Sand them down with the 220 grit sandpaper or is it possilble to drill them out and fill them with my second coat of resin. 
Sorry to be lengthy, very scared and frustrated I messed up my project.....


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

You can add onother coat without any problems. The new coat will fill the scratches and they will dissappear. Same with the air bubbles. Do whatever needs to be done to open them up and accept the next coat of resin.

If you have some really deep or big bubbles you probably want to drill them out to accept more resin and mix a small batch and fill them in before doing another pour over the whole thing.

I've poured well over 100 gallons of the stuff and still have a problem now and then. Some things you can't avoid no matter how much you try.


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## ironhorse2004 (Dec 17, 2012)

Wow that is so great to hear!!! Thanks a million I will be doing it Thursday night. Keep your fingers crossed!


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## CharlotteTaylor (Dec 19, 2012)

Big Dave said:


> The epoxy is not burn or cut resistant. You shouldn't be cutting directly on your countertops anyway. It is not heat resistant either. I've had to repair one where something hot was set on it and it caused an ugly bubble. I was able to cut the bubble out, fill the hole and then apply a new coat to the whole top. You had to look hard to see where the repair was made. My customer was very satisfied.
> 
> Any of the epoxies that are a bar type finish will work no matter what the brand. They are all food safe to my knowledge also. Some paint stores carry it or you can purchase it online.
> 
> ...


Got a well organized kitchen setup there...


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

While they can be attractive I suppose, I would never have wooden countertops. But then, I live in a log house so there's plenty of wood already.


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