# Tiling Shower: Decorative tile thicker than Wall tile



## digexpressions (Nov 29, 2007)

I am doing a shower remodel and am starting to design the layout. I will be putting up 1/4" Hardibacker over the existing green board. My problem is that the 6X12 decorative tile that I purchased for an accent row is about 1/8" thicker than the wall tile I will be using. What is the best method to install the tile so that the tiles will be flush in the end? Should I cut the hardibacker so that the row is 1/8" thick? Should I use different size trowels? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks!


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

digexpressions said:


> I am doing a shower remodel and am starting to design the layout. I will be putting up 1/4" Hardibacker over the existing green board. My problem is that the 6X12 decorative tile that I purchased for an accent row is about 1/8" thicker than the wall tile I will be using. What is the best method to install the tile so that the tiles will be flush in the end? Should I cut the hardibacker so that the row is 1/8" thick? Should I use different size trowels? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


OK, before we get to the tile thickness, why Hardi OVER greenboard? 
What about waterproofing?
You know tile/grout is not impermeable to water, right?


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

It might look good to have the accent tile a bit proud of the rest of the tiled field. If the grout line between the field and the accents is not very narrow, then the grout will very naturally transition the surface to the thicker tile.


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## digexpressions (Nov 29, 2007)

angus242 said:


> OK, before we get to the tile thickness, why Hardi OVER greenboard?
> What about waterproofing?
> You know tile/grout is not impermeable to water, right?


I was told this was the way to do it, since it was greenboard and not just your standard drywall. Is there a better way to do this? Please inform. Thanks!


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

You NEVER want any gypsum-based wallboard behind tile or backerboard. It will not hold up in a wet location. Whoever gave you that advice has no idea what they are talking about. :no: The backerboard itself is permeable as well.

You need to use 1/2" cementitious backerboard (Hardie or DuraRock). You need to remove the sheetrock. Current code prohibits the installation of any gypsum board in a wet location under tile or other surface. The green rock is mold resistant, but is not resistant to breaking down due to moisture. 

Ideally, you install cement backerboard directly to the studs. Then you apply a surface sealer such as RedGard to it to deal with the permeability/moisture issue. Then you use thinset to attach your tile.

Please, do yourself a favor and take this advice. The current setup won't last long at all.


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

Greenboard does NOTHING for you in this situation. It is still covered with paper which is food for mold.

If you are doing demo to the studs, just use 1/2" Hardi or any other cement board of your choice. 
Now, you need to WATERPROOF. This can be done 2 different ways:
1) A membrane like Kerdi
or
2) A liquid like RedGard.

Alternatively, you could use DensGuard as your backer (which IS waterproof) and then just waterproof your screw holes and seams which a product like RedGard.

Why you ask? Well tile and grout are NOT impermeable to water. You will get moisture behind the tile. What if you don't water proof? What does moisture and wood equal? MOLD!

Now for the differences in tile thickness....I tend to agree with Nate. However, if you don't like that idea, you could attempt to add some thickness with thinset. Whatever you do, DON'T cut out the cement backer material! Depending on what the decorative tile is, could you shave a bit off the back of it with a tile saw? However, I still say once it's all done, you will probably get a nice look with the protruding tile row.

Good luck!


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## digexpressions (Nov 29, 2007)

"If you are doing demo to the studs, just use 1/2" Hardi or any other cement board of your choice."

I only have one problem demoing to the studs. doing so will leave my backer board flush with the wall. I am planning on using quarter round which needs to protrude from the wall a bit. What are your suggestions? Is there a way to put a waterproofing layer between the backer and greenboard? plastic sheeting? 

Also, if I was to demo the drywall, what do I do for the transition of backer and sheetrock? I'm guessing I would be tiling over the gap to hide it. 

Thanks!


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

I only have one problem demoing to the studs. doing so will leave my backer board flush with the wall. I am planning on using quarter round which needs to protrude from the wall a bit. What are your suggestions? Is there a way to put a waterproofing layer between the backer and greenboard? plastic sheeting?
*If you WATERPROOF the cement backer, it won't matter that you have greenboard or whatever behind it. I'm telling you either Kerdi or RedGard the cement board and you life will be more fulfilled! :thumbsup:*
http://www.schluter.com/8_1_kerdi.aspx
http://www.custombuildingproducts.c...terproofingAntiFractureMembranes/RedGard.aspx

Also, if I was to demo the drywall, what do I do for the transition of backer and sheetrock. I'm guessing I would be tiling over the gap to hide it. 
*Yes. But when you waterproof, just do it to where the tile will end.*


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## digexpressions (Nov 29, 2007)

Okay, I think I will go and get some Redgard. Do I apply the Redgard to the installed Hardibacker (so that it creates a layer in between the thinset and backer board) or do I apply it to the back of wall (creating a layer in between the backer board and wall). I would guess the first option, but was wondering about the tiles bonding properly to the cement board. Is this something to worry about?

Thanks!


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

Install your cement backer as required. Now follow the instructions for installing RedGard over the backer particularly when it comes to seams or holes. Once allowed to dry, you tile over directly using a quality modified thinset. If you're sticking with Custom products, you could use Versabond Flex.

Good luck


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Be sure to use the correct thinset for your application. For Kerdi, they require non modified thinset to attach the Kerdi and non modified thinset for tile attachment to the Kerdi.
Ron


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## JenkinsHB (Jun 8, 2008)

yeah... ditch the green board idea. only bad things will come from it.

For an answer to your question though. Find some border pieces that can outline your listello piece. Something like the picture below. Hope that helps.

-Dan


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