# Fascia cover filled with water/ice causing leaks



## big daddy-o (Jan 2, 2008)

it could be ice damming, warm air is escaping to atticmelts ice or snow on roof . water rolls down to cold unheated overhang and freezes. over time it starts to back up forming thick ice on overhang edge, meanwhile heat is still escaping and melting more ice and snow water has no where to go except in seams of shingles causing leaks. Ice and water shield 3' up on eve edge would help control this if thats the problem


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I am suspecting that the new drip edge flashing was just pushed into position under the top exposed course of shingles.

If that is the case, then every 3 feet where each shingle butts up to the next one, there is the gap between the shingles. Since the metal edging does not go far enough up to get past the approximate 5" vertical seam or gap between each shingle, the melted snow and moisture is flowing down on top of the original roof layer and then it can and wil flow under the new sheet metal and continue to flow into and behind the fascia board.

Also, if the reroof top layer of shingles are a 3-Tab shingle, the slot cut outs wil alow this moisture entry every 12" instead of only at the 3 foot butt ends as well. Your pictures did not show a cloe up of the top of the shingles where they overlap the new sheet metal drip edge, so I could not tell that for sure.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

we







cap the fascia w/a 3x3that goes behind the gutter,then put ice shield above the gutter goes on the bottom 3" of the flashing so there is no backup problem;


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

TRG,

This was a reroof instaling a 2nd layer. No Ice and Water Shield potential unless they at least tore off the lower 3 feet first.

I think the leak is coming in the slots, but would like to see roof surface photos at the eave edge and preferably of one where the edge of one shingle is lifted up to show the placement of the newly instaled drip edge metal.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

I`m just showing the way it should be,they also have a product from"N.E.I."THAT IS MEANT AS A ICE SHIELD FOR A SECOND LAYER ROOF,seems that the poster was blaming advice he got here,rather than a poor roof situation and/or possible inexperience of his contractor,as all here realise his problem is a result of a freeze up,and improper flashing detail,along with the absence of ice +water shield,proper insulation ,ventilation etc. as the reason the ice even formed and caused a problem,note his reason for problem below;

I have water leaking inside my fascia cover and then through a seam in the fascia board and behind the fascia into the soffit cavity, then coming out the soffit vents. I never had a problem in the ten years I had my reroof without the fascia cover in place. My attic ventilation is excellent.

This mess started last summer when I asked how I could remove a rotted/warped fascia board that had nails going into the top edge from the roof sheathing above. I could not get at those nails because the reroof drip edge dropped down a couple of inches over the top of the fascia board. There was no way to get a cutting tool in there without cutting all or part of the reroof drip edge away. Then the drip edge could be replaced, I figured.

Instead, a vinyl/aluminum cover for the fascia was recommended. They cut off the bottom four inches of the bad fascia, and nailed up a new four inches, so I now have a seam all across my fascia board. This seam was not sealed, and it is now covered by the aluminum/vinyl trim.

You can see in the first picture that I have water running from behind the reroof drip edge over the fascia cover. I show the level of the seam that I described


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

the roofing god said:


> *seems that the poster was blaming advice he got here,* rather than a poor roof situation and/or possible inexperience of his contractor,


I did not get that impression at all. I think he specifically referred to the advice from his contractor who advised him who was doing the job.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

oh,I thought he was talking of advice from here,I would never recommend cutting the bottom of a fascia and just replacing/meshing together the pieces anyway,but either way I showed what should be done----there was a reference to never a problem with his 2nd layer roof though,which also indicated the h/o didn`t understand cause +effect of these situations,a little education goes a long way---why do you choose to call me out over dispensing proper information to him anyway???????he probably should get his roof done by someone other than he`s been using anyway:whistling2:


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I wasn't "Calling You Out" on anything TRG. 

I just brought out a point for proper clarification, so that if you wanted to add some further instructive comments to the home owner, it would be directed with the correct assumption of the existing conditions.

Did you have a rough treatment at the PT today? I hope you are feeling okay, as I was not trying to minimize the scope of your evaluation and correct methodology of proper repairs. Okay?

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

no,I`m fine,and you know how to reach me out of the public eye,and I guess you aren`t familiar with the N.E.I. ICE SHIELD OR YOU WOULDN`T HAVE MADE THIS COMMENT;
TRG,

This was a reroof instaling a 2nd layer. No Ice and Water Shield potential unless they at least tore off the lower 3 feet first.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

If this is the N.E.I product you are speaking of, I am familiar with it.

http://www.nei-act.com/literature/AC.Granular.Literature.pdf

Ed

*APPLICATION*​ 
• AC GRANULAR must be applied when ambient and
substrate temperatures are 400F (40C) or higher. *AC*
*GRANULAR Ice and StormSeal must be installed*
*directly to the structural deck. *​ 
Remove all dirt, dust,
loose nails and debris. Place metal drip edge or
wood starter shingles over AC GRANULAR Ice and​StormSeal.


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