# Drywall Pro's Opinions



## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

I'm starting a new project and wanted to get some pro opinion on the drywall aspect. I am converting a garage into living space and will need to drywall entire space. The garage is currently 24x12 and will be split into two rooms of 8x12 and 16x12. The wall height is 8'7". The walls have true 2"x4" with diagonal TNG 1x6 on outside, additionally covered with asbestos shingles. Though I know it is not the traditional install, my thoughts were to run 5" scraps along floor, then 8' vertically hung sheetrock followed by a 2" scrap along top. The bottom will have 1x6 baseboards to match the rest of the house and the ceiling will have crown covering the top seams, which, for example on on of the 16' walls would give me 24' of vertical seem to tape/mud versus running 12' horizontal install that results in 32' horizontal seems plus 8' of butt joint to deal with.
Question is, am I talking myself into a bad idea of vertical install, or would this be the desired method in this case?

Thanks in advance,
Brett


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just making a whole lot more work for yourself.
Locate a real drywall supply and buy 12' X 4' 6" drywall.


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

Would definitely prefer that route, but have not been able to find a source here in BFE Mississippi. Closest larger town is 30 mins away and only has a Lowes, not even a HD. Next town of size is Hattiesburg, 1.5 hours, but have not searched there yet.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I would use 5/8 thick x 12' long on the ceiling first. Then do the walls, upper pc first 48" x 12' horizontal, makes a nice straight ceiling corner. And finish with a 4' 6" x 12' on the bottom, (like Joe said). Should leave you with 3/8 gap at the bottom, Perfect fit!

Some people say its OK, but I would never run dry wall the same direction as studs. What are the chances of them being spaced perfectly and straight? You would wind up cutting the long edge to fit anyway!


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

If I can source the 54, would of course do ceiling first, but use the full 54 on bottom then 54 -6" on top so that I would not have to fill tapered edge where the crown would sit?


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

Looks like I'll have to select a good weather day and make the 3 hour round trip to Hattiesburg to get the 54" since it looks like HD is my closest source.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

wrangler said:


> If I can source the 54, would of course do ceiling first, but use the full 54 on bottom then 54 -6" on top so that I would not have to fill tapered edge where the crown would sit?




48 top + 54 bottom + 5/8 ceiling thick = 102 5/8",
You should still tape and seal the top even though you are covering with crown. After you tape and seal the tapered edge will be flat as the wall.

We put the top wall pc in first so it can be pushed up against the ceiling making a tight joint with the 2 factory edges. You can not cut it that straight.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Hanging drywall vertical is very seldom the correct way. Unless you have the one house out there that the framing is perfect. If they are perfectly spaced and not warped at all that gives you 3/4" for the edge of each piece of drywall. Now add framing that is off by only 1/2" and one piece now has 1 1/4" and the other piece has 1/4" which is not enough to screw to. Now you have to add nailers or sister more 2x4 to the existing ones.

If you can't get 54" drywall then butt your first sheet up against the ceiling, then put the second sheet up about 1/2" above the floor. Then using 3/8" drywall cut it to fit the open space in the middle. This is called a "belly band" this space is then filled with joint compound. Using the 3/8" will eliminate the hump you would get from using 1/2". But beware even this method is quite a bit harder than using the 54" drywall.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

ToolSeeker said:


> Hanging drywall vertical is very seldom the correct way. Unless you have the one house out there that the framing is perfect. If they are perfectly spaced and not warped at all that gives you 3/4" for the edge of each piece of drywall. Now add framing that is off by only 1/2" and one piece now has 1 1/4" and the other piece has 1/4" which is not enough to screw to. Now you have to add nailers or sister more 2x4 to the existing ones.
> 
> If you can't get 54" drywall then butt your first sheet up against the ceiling, then put the second sheet up about 1/2" above the floor. Then using 3/8" drywall cut it to fit the open space in the middle. This is called a "belly band" this space is then filled with joint compound. Using the 3/8" will eliminate the hump you would get from using 1/2". But beware even this method is quite a bit harder than using the 54" drywall.



Toolseek, you would do this in liu of just running 2 tapered factory seams one at 6" off the floor and the next 48" up?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Yes belly banding with 3/8" is preferred to tape then a low join near the floor or high at the ceiling.

If one absolutely must run vertical then do not join on the studs. Rip some 5/8" plywood into 3" strip and screw that to the edge of one sheet then put up the next sheet joining on that strip and not on a stud. Is it ideal? Absolutely not, sometime though it is the best for a given set of circumstances.


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

OK, so I found a source for 54 an hour away. Next question, since my length is almost 24' may I have just one 8' butt joint in the center. Or will I need to offset one row, giving me three 4' butts?


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

BTW, the reason behind the original post is I hate butt joints. If I could sub it out to a decent finisher I would, but those are even more scarce around here.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

You always want to stagger your butt Joints.
If you have windows or doors do not joint sheets on the edge of them, however over the top can be great as you see the joint less.
Be sure to have at least 2' stagger in the butt joints but I prefer 32" minimum.
Also taping butts is easier with the addition of 'Butt Boards' these allow you to join between the studs and make a little dip in the sheet. So it is sorta like a tapered joint.
You can buy them or make your own.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3z7r2U47CoI


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Another tip Put your shorter pieces of drywall on the top of the wall, why? They are lighter and easier to lift/handle!!!!
Then your 2 approx. 12' sheets on bottom where you do not have to lift much.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

mae-ling said:


> the addition of 'Butt Boards' allow you to join between the studs and make a little dip in the sheet. So it is sorta like a tapered joint.
> You can buy them or make your own.



when making your own but boards are you using a flat board or doing something to it to create the concave profile?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

adding strips to the sides but not the center. 
Found the article that started me out.
I use 48" for walls where one end will lap onto the above or below sheets, and 54" for ceiling so both sides can lap onto the shetts beside when needed.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/tips/invisible-drywall-butt-joints.aspx


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

As stated butt boards make butt joints into tapered joints and are fantastic. If you use them my advice is to make the joint in the middle of the stud bay. And again as stated stagger your joints.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

wrangler said:


> BTW, the reason behind the original post is I hate butt joints. If I could sub it out to a decent finisher I would, but those are even more scarce around here.


I hear dat (on both counts). I used to think as you do, and it does make sense, but really you should just consider using back blocking for trouble butt joints.

Here are some good tips.
http://thatdrywallguy.com/ferguson_drywall_innovations_inc_005.htm

Pay attention especially to the end of #7. Here is the product he's trying to link to.
http://www.rocksplicer.com/rock_splicer.html

Once you know what this is, you can look for other products, or make your own simple ones.

Edit: as mae-ling's post already addressed lol, sorry


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

Just an update and a thanks to all who responded. Did as suggested and made my own butt boards from some scrap OSB and ran off some 1/8" strips on the table saw and attached them with a staple gun. Worked out great and joints were easy to mud and invisible when finished. 

Thanks again!


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