# Rotting Fascia Boards



## 1962House (Dec 8, 2011)

Hi.
I just bought a house and have started scraping away peeling paint to get it ready to repaint....of course I come across paint covering rotted areas of the fascias. I know they should probably be replaced, but the problem is that the house has a very low-pitch roof (nearly flat) which is the foam built-up type roof, and the built-up foam is flush with the top of the flashing--if I made any sense--...removing the damaged fascias seems relatively simple, but attaching new ones not so much, and the flashing seems to cause any water to run directly onto the wood...should the flashing be pried away a little to prevent that? I've added a few pics to get the idea.....thanks for any input!
Josh


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## Slyfox (Jun 13, 2008)

Wouldn't want to comment with out that pic.


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## 1962House (Dec 8, 2011)

Here are a few photos.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The nails need to be removed that are in that metal roofing (or what ever it is) The wood needs to come off and be replaced then just have a siding company install PVC coated aluminum coil stock then reinstall the nails in the over hanging metal. No more rot or painting ever again.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

PVC shrinks and fades, and so does aluminum.

Get good steel that is not PVC coated or simply painted.

http://emcobuildingproducts.com/


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not sure who this other poster is but I can say 100% he has no clue. PVC coil stock does not faid, if installed with oval shaped holes punched with a special punch made just for this it's also not going to buckle. Good luck trying to even trying to find any form of steel to cover this, and even if you did it would rust in time.
I've worked on hundreds of older homes and everone I've seen with galvinized drip cap, it's rusted.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

Take a look at the link.

That steel is galvanized and coated with teflon.

If you think PVC doesn't fade, you must have just started yesterday. Aluminum is for soffits, not for coil, roof edge, or fascia's anymore.

Just sayin' there are better products to use than what the guy with the aluminum brake always uses....and at affordable pricing. (compared to copper, etc)


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've been doing siding for over 30 years. Not one piece of PVC coated coil stock I've ever installed has faided. Just plan painted coil stock fades.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

I'm not sure that PVC coated aluminum has been out that long but, ok.

You must only install white then?

I agree that the plain painted fades more, but it's a fact that PVC fades over time, especially colors. Look it up if you don't want to believe me.

It's also a fact that steel is a better product to use over aluminum for fascia's and siding. 

I am not a DIYer either. Our business has been around for 3 generations and I personally have been doing this work for 16 years in the field.

I have PVC coated steel siding on my own home, along with PVC coated aluminum for the coil and painted steel fascia's. In only a few years I can already see the PVC fading and I'm in MN. I see now that the siding I used (Edco, not Emco) also offers teflon coating on their steel. Wish they would have had that a few years ago. I knew steel was better for numerous reasons and didn't fade or chalk like most vinyl's, but it's still PVC coated. It's not going to stay fade free or chalk free for as long as I would have liked.

Aside from that, PVC also cracks, shrinks, scratches easily.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

PVC coated aluminim coil stock has been around for at least 20 years that I know of.
Older aluminum siding caulked, as well as old vinyl siding. That's over and done with. the new stuff does not do that.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

joecaption said:


> PVC coated aluminim coil stock has been around for at least 20 years that I know of.
> Older aluminum siding caulked, as well as old vinyl siding. *That's over and done with. the new stuff does not do that.*


Oh really? :huh:

You sound like a sales rep. Sure, it has improved, but it is still vinyl and it is still aluminum.

I have seen vinyl and aluminum, fade and chalk within 5 years. Ask an insurance adjuster if vinyl or aluminum fades or chalks.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Still happens and especially in the case of new construction type quality stuff.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

The problem with the water running over the rake edges is because the foam roof has been built up over the gravel stop. Originally the roof is more then likely a Asphalt and gravel roof. There should be a gravel stop all the way around one the Eve edges (gutter edge) I would have typically been 3/4 of an inch higher then the roof. 1" or so on the rake edges. Now that they spray foamed it can run off anywhere. The water will keep going where it wants to, Remove the fascia boards, prime them and replace. Then have someone wrap them with STEEL. Steel will last 10X longer then the thin alum the siders use. Any roofing company worth there salt can make a simple fascia cover in 24 ga. 



joecaption said:


> Not sure who this other poster is but I can say 100% he has no clue. PVC coil stock does not faid, if installed with oval shaped holes punched with a special punch made just for this it's also not going to buckle. Good luck trying to even trying to find any form of steel to cover this, and even if you did it would rust in time.
> I've worked on hundreds of older homes and everone I've seen with galvinized drip cap, it's rusted.


We just did a fascia wrap on house just like this about a month ago. Granted we do not do it much but it was no problem for our guys to been a simple J style piece and wrap the fascia. 24ga Prefinished white on that job. Granted it wont be a few hundred bucks like it would be with PVC. Oh also to point out not one face nail was used. 

Note we were talking about fascia wrap not drip cap what ever that is. Drip edge or cap metal its one or the other...


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## 1962House (Dec 8, 2011)

Thanks for the input. I was planning on keeping it the same way, just wood. Wrapping it sounds complex and pricey. Anyway, the issue that vexes me is how to replace the rafter-style fascias. The ones that run parallel with the rafters. The others would be relatively simple, as they nail onto the rafter ends. These photose are an example of the problem. First, this one is a rafter, as it's one piece that appears to extend all the way through, and it is in bad shape. The beam that it rests upon has decayed at the top, as well. Now, this whole mess is above a pool, extending about 2 or 3 feet over the pool. Being on the roof seems to be the only way to get to it to work on it, like laying on the stomach, working over the edge. Inconvenient. Would it just be easier to saw off the fascia where it meets the side of the house and somehow fit in a new piece? (How would one attach the two sawed ends together that wasn't an eyesore?)








Another picture of problem fascia piece...notice it, too is a rafter. A previous owner had cut away a section of roof overhang to accomodate an RV, resulting in this peculiar jag.






This view shows the pool interference with the long problem board. I'm just trying to get ideas for myself to see if I can manage these repairs before I give up and call in a repair person...


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

Obviously the best fix is to replace the fascia boards. 

The drip edge is nailed into the fascia and can be cut with a reciprocating saw from the back. This does accomplish being able to remove the fascia and replace it. The problem is the drip edge will no longer be fasten to it unless you do something from on top. That will also require some foam work and coating. It should be fastened at the gables, that's what holding the edge down from wind uplift. Not so sure the roofing portion is a DIY job, I am not familiar with foam roofs though.


Based on the first pics I think the first couple were repairable. Some minwax wood hardener followed by bondo, primer and paint should do the trick. The long one by the pool would ideally be replaced but could be repaired...then perhaps wrap it to keep it from getting worse.

You could replace some sections but I think once you got into it your end up doing all of it. They look very weathered to me, minor dry rot on the first pics...but only you know for sure, the pics are not giving us the full picture.


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## RoofingTrades (Apr 20, 2014)

Wow, this thread has some trash talk. I'm not going to argue with other contractors on this site, I have my own ways and I backup my work. And on top of that I'd be more than willing to provide pictures before, during and after regarding repairs like this.

Something like what has been posted is extremely common amongst flat roofs. The metal flashing that you see on the perimeter of the low slope area is called "cap flashing" or "perimeter flashing" depending on the contractor you're speaking to. While in some cases minor damage can be covered up with caulking and painted over, I recommend full replacement of the fascia. I'm not trying to promote myself, my business or my practise but I would only give the customer the option of replacing the entire length of fascia that has been damaged and replacing the cap flashing as well. 

Opt for custom made cap flashing that has a "kickout" or a hemmed lip that allows water to drip away from the fascia. I recommend a minimum thickness of 26-gauge flashing with a height that will cover the entire fascia. Therefore you will never need to repaint your fascia every couple of years. I have this on my own home, although not particularly a flat roof it serves the same purpose.


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