# Basement Bathroom Plumbing Layout



## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Any advice at all? I can answer any questions for clarification purposes.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Yea the way you have the fixtures placed you will need to vent every one of them. All vents must be vertical no under the floor dry vents. Your state follows IPC code.

You also must be 40 inches away from your stack before you tie in your first fixture.

I would strongly suggest moving the door to the toilet location and the toilet next to the sink. That way you can use the lavatory sink as a wet vent for the toilet. Then all you need vent is that sink and the shower.


You will also need a plumbing permit from your local building department with inspections and test.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks for the input. I do want to leave the toilet where it is, but I wasn't sure about venting it. Does where the washer drain comes into the main waste line count as the toilet vent? Or do I somehow have to add another vent? The way the toilet is in the layout now, it will drain straight into the waste line so I'm not sure how to add a vent for it. Thanks again.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

No your washer is not a vent for anything. Except the washer.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Well, nuts! I guess I will adjust the toilet back a bit and tie it into the main waste line with a short piece of pipe and a wye. I will tee in a vent off of that short piece of pipe and tie it into the main stack in the attic. Thanks for the advice! Do the wyes that I use to tie the sink, shower, and now toilet drains into the main waste line have to be 45 dgrees or more above horizontal, or can they be less than that?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Does this second plan sound better? Also what about wyes having to be above 45 degree? Thanks again for the help!


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

How deep is your pipe in that area?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I'm not too sure yet since im trying to plan as much as I can before I dig up my basement. I will definitely be starting right after Christmas. I guess once I have the main waste line exposed it will better help me determine the exact locations.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

chronojosh said:


> Any advice at all? I can answer any questions for clarification purposes.


Determine exactly where your existing drain line is first and then depending on how much concrete you want to break up you can plan your layout accordingly.

Thats what I did on my basement bathroom. I minimized concrete trenching by adjusting my layout of shower, toilet and lav. I even went as far as doing the lav drain above grade since I had a stack close by.

I notice you have a stack in that corner that you may be able to use??

Plus Ghostmaker gave some good suggestions.

I'm finished with the DWV, supply plumbing and electrical on mine. Here is a link to my thread if you care to look

http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/basement-bathroom-use-shower-vent-toilet-195472/


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Heres a tip for when you break your concrete up:

I didnt want to use a wet gas saw inside the house so I rented an electric dry-use Makita 14" concrete saw. The saw has its own attachment for a shop vac hook up that is suppose to minimize dust. Well the dust collection worked like crap. I should of went to United Rental and got their Husqvarna wet electric saw. 

Just keep that in mind and have a good dust mask and plastic off the area.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks. I saw your thread and definately got some ideas from it. I have a skill saw with a diamond blade I'm going to use for my cutting. Definately going for the wet cutting though! I hate dust! Any advice on wether or not I have to use install wyes above 45 degrees when they are horizontal?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

chronojosh said:


> Thanks. I saw your thread and definately got some ideas from it. I have a skill saw with a diamond blade I'm going to use for my cutting. Definately going for the wet cutting though! I hate dust! Any advice on wether or not I have to use install wyes above 45 degrees when they are horizontal?



If your concrete floor is 4" thick good luck with a skill saw and an 8" or 10" blade.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Yup. The skill saw only cuts to 2.5" and it's definitely more than 2.5" thick! I dont want to crush my pipe by smashing on the floor with a sledge too hard. Renting a concrete saw tomorrow. Oh well...


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

So I finally got the floor cut up, and I changed what I think my layout should be. In the attached drawing, how should I go about venting the toilet? 2" shower and sink drain line will tie into the 3" toilet drain before wying into the 4" main septic line. Does the 2" sink vent count as a wet vent for the toilet? Or should I somehow wye off of the vertical toilet drop and add a 2" vent there? Any more advice would be helpful. BTW, my basement floor varies from 3" to 4" thick, so that was a fun job getting it cut, but with a little water, dust wasn't too bad of an issue.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Or, could I swap the toilet and sink location and use the sink drain as a wet vent?


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

In the 4 inch main line between the washer and your toilet you need to install a 4 by 3 Y the 3 inch to your new bath. Run straight up under your new wall install a 3 inch wye to the toilet and use a 3 by 4 inch 90 to pick up the toilet. 4 inch through the floor.

On the straight side of the wye bush down to 2 inch run to your sink install a 2 by 1.5 by 2 inch wye on its back pick up sink with 1.5 inch and vent. Continue 2 inch to shower trap a max distance of 8 foot from sink pickup.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

So, with what you're saying to do, the vent for the toilet is through what? The sink drain/vent? I just want to make sure I understand it before I do it. I appreciate the help!


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Yes your bathroom sink will vent the shower and the toilet. This arrangement is called a wet vent. You can wet vent with bathroom fixtures.

Your Drain to where the sink gets picked up is over sized the top of the pipe is the vent water being at the bottom.

You did notice I removed the entire bathroom off your main drain right?

Do you have an existing floor drain by the water heater?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I did get that from what you were saying. I know it doesn't look like it from my drawing, but the toilet was part of the line off of the main 4" waste line. It is just really close to where the wye will be. With that all being said, that the sink can be my wet vent for the toilet, that saves me from having to add another vent for the toilet. Thanks for the help! Oh, and yes there is a floor drain about 2 feet from the water heater.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

You may run into a problem if the pipe to the floor drain crosses through your existing plan.

If your finishing the basement you should also pan the HWT with a drain to the floor drain to prevent water damage when it leaks.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Finally have the floor out and the pipe dug up. There is one floor drain pipe, but it's deep enough as to where it won't be in the way. Hopefully I will be getting to removing the old cast iron and installing the new pvc in the next week or so.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

What awesome easy digging you have.

Could you draw out with paint on the floor locations of fixtures. 

We may have better ideas to save you work.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

It was pretty easy. I worry about replacing the cast iron with pvc. There are a lot of rocks I have to remove before back filling. This picture is of where the toilet, sink, and shower will go. I will mark it up and rotate it on my computer.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Hopefully that clears things up. As stated earlier, I will use the sink drain/vent as my wet vent for the toilet.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Is that 4 inch cast under the floor? Looks like it from the stack photo.

Your going to have to dead end at the toilet. Then use a 3 by 2 wye downstream to go with 2 inch to your lav and sink. Then you tie in to existing with 2 4 inch proflex cast to plastic adapter bands. You will need a sawsall with a cast iron blade to cut into your cast where needed. Or A concrete chop saw.

4 by 3 wye for cast
Small piece 4 inch SCD 40 plastic pipe about 5 foot
3 by 2 wye

3 by 4 90 4 inch up to the toilet

2 inch st 45 into the 3 by 2 wye

2 inch pipe

2 inch by 1.5 inch wye on back 
1.5 inch st 45 up for lav

1.5 inch tee for lav

2 inch trap for shower no vent needed unless your over 8 foot from the lav wye.

3 inch scd 40 pipe

If you use PVC get PVC Primer and Glue use the quart cans

You vent the lav it vents entire bath

Use an AAV or well you vent it to air? If distance out roof greater then 40 foot you will need 2 inch all the way to lav and its vent. If you use AAV then don't worry about it just place the AAV under your sink for future maintenance. 


Have fun and get it done....


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks for the help. I do plan on using 2" for the sink vent and running up into the attic and attaching back into the main stack. That is a 4" cast iron main, but I plan on replacing it with 4" pvc. Just one question, why do you suggest a 4 x 3 wye with the 4" facing up for the toilet? Doesn't that encourage a clog?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Also; what do you mean by " dead end at the toilet"?


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## Buz42812 (Jan 11, 2015)

Personally I would. Use a 3" closet bend with 2 heel inlet to continue over to lavatory and shower, and your showing a vent at lavatory then another at shower, since you will be running 2" full for lavatory and vent thru roof, second vent is not needed


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Buz42812 said:


> Personally I would. Use a 3" closet bend with 2 heel inlet to continue over to lavatory and shower, and your showing a vent at lavatory then another at shower, since you will be running 2" full for lavatory and vent thru roof, second vent is not needed


Heel inlets on a closet bend aren't allowed in some areas. Dropping the second vent will only work if the trap to vent distance is short enough. From the pic it looks like it will be a too long so the separate shower vent is likely needed.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

A heel inlet is not allowed. It will become a constant source of blockage as feces will deposit in the opening. Not to mention it is basically a tee on it's back.

*706.4 Heel-or side-inlet quarter bends. *Heel-inlet quarter bends shall be an acceptable means of connection, *except where the quarter bend serves a water closet.* A low-heel inlet shall not be used as a wet-vented connection. Side-inlet quarter bends shall be an acceptable means of connection for drainage, wet venting and stack venting arrangements.

You use a 3 by 4 90 with 4 inch coming through so once you complete your finish floor all you need to do is cut the 4 inch flush and insert a 3 inch toilet flange into the 4 inch pipe with glue and primer. This eliminates all guess work and lot's of screwing around. This is an exception in IPC code for just this reason.
*420.4 Water closet connections*. A 4-inch by 3-inch (102 mm by 76 mm) closet bend shall be acceptable. Where a 3-inch (76 mm) bend is utilized on water closets, a 4-inch by 3-inch (102 mm by 76 mm) flange shall be installed to receive the fixture horn.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

chronojosh said:


> Also; what do you mean by " dead end at the toilet"?



What that means you will turn up with the 3 by 4 90 to get a toilet. The wet vent must be downstream of that. You cannot install a tee on its back for the toilet and continue on.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Oh. I was planning on installing a 2" to 3" coupling shortly after the sink, then I was going to install a 3" x 3" wye 1/8 bend to pick up the toilet. After that I was going to tie into the main waste line with a 4" x 3" wye. The 90 is still confusing me since I don't understand how to tie back into the main waste line if I use a 90 for the toilet. I just want to make sure I understand. Thanks a lot for the help again!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

If you are placing the toilet directly over the 3" drain like you show in post 25 you will have to use a wye and a 1/8. But you may run into some height issues becsuse a 3" eye and an 1/8 is gonna take some elevation


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Its possible Ghost may be thinking you are setting the toilet back from the 3" in that case youd use a 3x3 Wye with a short section of 3" from the Wye to the 3x4 90 for the toilet. Fitting "A" would be your 3x4 90. 

I edited a photo I had of my arrangement to try and show.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Gotcha. Thanks for that. I will be setting the toilet right over the 3" line so no need for the 90.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

You can not use a tee fitting to pick up your toilet. Do it your way then you break the floor up around the 3 inch to sit the flange. Makes no difference to me. Because the flange has to glue on the outside of 3 inch pipe.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Understand, no tee. I will use a wye 1/8 bend for that as well. I am going to be insulating the floor before adding tile so I have about an inch of space to place between the concrete and where the flange will sit.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Ghostmaker said:


> You can not use a tee fitting to pick up your toilet.


I wasn't suggrsting to use a Tee to pick up the toilet even thought that's what's in my photo. That's why I noted that the Tee in my photo would be the 3x4 90 in his setup. 

The Tee in my photo was for a vent. I tried to edit the photo the best I could.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

hammerlane said:


> I wasn't suggrsting to use a Tee to pick up the toilet even thought that's what's in my photo. That's why I noted that the Tee in my photo would be the 3x4 90 in his setup.
> 
> The Tee in my photo was for a vent. I tried to edit the photo the best I could.



I wasn't referring to you hammer. If you look at what he cut and marked he sort of went a straight line to everything with a thin ditch. I was concerned about him using a tee under the toilet then continuing on to the rest of it. He will figure out he doesn't have the depth for a wye and a 45 in the vertical.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

I noticed the same thing Ghost...everything was straight line


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Well shoot. If I can't use a wye 1/8 because of height issues, how do I use the 90 to tie the toilet into the line like I thought I could? I truly appreciatr the help from both of you, but I'm just not getting it.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Instead of strsight up, could I turn the wye for the toilet 45 degrees to gain some room? Sort of like what you showed hammer, but immediately 1/8 up after the wye.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Something like this...see how the Wye is on its side then a short piece of pipe then a 90 up to the toilet flange??


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

As you show in this photo, we dont think you can set the toilet directly over the 3" line because of the height that a Wye and an 1/8th takes up. Is this your intention or plan to be able to set the toilet exactly where you show here?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I was planning on going directly up from the 3" line. But I could do like you show in your photo and use wye and short piece of pipe. I thought horizontal wyes couldn't lay on their sides, but had to be 45 degrees above horizontal?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

chronojosh said:


> I was planning on going directly up from the 3" line. But I could do like you show in your photo and use wye and short piece of pipe. I thought horizontal wyes couldn't lay on their sides, but had to be 45 degrees above horizontal?


A sanitary tee may not be sideways but a wye can be- so use a wye-it does not need to rollup at a 45 either when used as a drain branch


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

So if I install the 3" wye and the go to a 90 for the toilet, as in hammerlane's example, will the wet vent from the sink still vent the toilet in this arrangement? Also, ghost, how should I transition that 3" line to a 4" for the toilet flange? Or would a 3" 90 be ok at this point? I don't think I will have enough room to 90 up and change from 3" to 4".


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

You use a 3" x 4" closet elbow


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

edited


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

chronojosh said:


> So if I install the 3" wye and the go to a 90 for the toilet, as in hammerlane's example, will the wet vent from the sink still vent the toilet in this arrangement?.


Theres a maximum horizontal distance you can be on the toilet drain before it needs to acquire a vent. I want to say for 3" it is 6 feet but I'll defer to Ghost.

I found this in my folders. I used 2" on mine and remember I was within 4.5 feet


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I will be within 4' of the 2" vent so I will be good there. Thanks for the info. before I purchase the 4" x 3" closet 90, just one final question. I understand what you guys are saying as far as using the 4" for the toilet so the flange is inside the pipe and not outside and things like TP won't get caught on the inner lip and not needing to break up the floor around it to set the flange(hopefully that is what you meant for me to understand!). But wont dropping from a 4" size down to a 3" size result in, or have the potential to cause, more clogs? I am very grateful for the advice you all have given me along the way here!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

The 4" hub of the 3x4 elbow will have a spigot end of the toilet flange inside it. It's highly unlikely any clog will occur in the 3x4 elbow. Most all toilet clogs occur in the internal trap of the toilet which is probably close to 2". For what it's worth I went against Ghosts suggestion and just used a 3" long sweep elbow for my toilet then a short piece of 3" stubbed up to floor level


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

As a note....A spigot end toilet flange will fit inside the hub of a fitting like the elbow whereas a hub end closet flange will fit over a stub of pipe. Make sure you know what you have and need. Some closet flanges are dual purpose meaning it will either fit in a hub or over a pipe


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

A reduction of 4"-3" at a toilet flange is the only instance that I know of that is specifically allowed by code.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

They do make flanges that fit inside the three inch pipe itself but they are not approved because a toilet is required to have a minimal size of a 3 inch drain.

Your toilet wet vent to the lav has an unlimited distance.

Your shower to the vented lav must be within 8 foot.

Your toilet to that wye doesn't care and is also unlimited because its a self filling fixture.

*906.1 Distance of trap from vent. *Each fixture trap shall have a protecting vent located so that the slope and the developed length in the fixture drain from the trap weir to the vent fitting are within the requirements set forth in Table 906.1. 
*Exception*:* The developed length of the fixture drain from the trap weir to the vent fitting for self-siphoning fixtures, such as water closets, shall not be limited in individual vent, common vent, and wet vent systems.*


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

That code example is when lawyers write it. 

You may have to widen your ditch a bit to sneak your 2 inch around the toilet to your lav and shower.

Your going to need some 4 inch pipe anyways to adapt your wye that your going to cut into your 4 inch cast iron drain. You will also need 2 Proflex or mission brand transition couplings from plastic to cast iron.

When you cut the 4 inch cast make it wider then the wye by at least 4 inches . That way you can primer and glue two stubs in the wye for the transition fittings.

Please finish digging out the 4 inch cast and submit a photo with depth to bottom of concrete from top of pipe.

Remember we have to sneak below or above your existing floor drain line and at the same time maintain pitch on the new drain.

PS. Buy all ABS or PVC do not mix the fittings. All Pipe must be SCD 40 stamped and ALL Fittings must have DWV stamped on them. NO Pressure fittings allowed.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Well there you have it. A lot of good info.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

hammerlane said:


> Well there you have it. A lot of good info.



Thanks for the pictures hammer. I had to inspect a do it yourself today and they glued abs to pvc then concreted the floor before inspection. They were not happy when I left.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks for the info. I can adjust the pipe for the toilet as needed to make the shower and sink line work. I will be able to get over the floor drain pipe and getting the right pitch. I'll post some pics as I get more done. Thanks again!


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Hang in there this will be fun..


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

If the distance from the sink drain/vent to the shower p-trap is only 3.5 feet, and the distance from the sink drain/vent to the toilet is also only 3.5 feet, can the sink vent be the only vent for the group? I will using a 2" vent for the sink. I also did some more measuring and messed around with the layout some more. I do have the depth to wye straight up for the toilet. Saves me from having to cut up more concrete.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

YES. Distance to toilet doesn't matter.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Ghostmaker said:


> YES. Distance to toilet doesn't matter.


Why is it that the distance from the toilet to the vent does not matter?


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Because the horizontal wet vent itself has no distance qualifiers. Only fixture and pipe size matter.

Bathroom group fixtures and DFU for pipe size.

If you think on it a bit the pipe from the toilet to the lav where he is venting is sized for 2 inch. The waste water will be on the bottom of the pipe the air is on the upper part thus maintaining the vent. The only distance that matters is the shower trap to it's vent which is the lav connection itself. Because the trap of the shower cannot be above the diameter of its pipe. At 1/4 inch pitch Minimal for 2 inch 8 foot is max distance. The shower drain to the lav is just a drain and not a wet vent. The only portion of this that is a wet vent is lav to toilet.

This is IPC not UPC IPC is a minimum based code.

The size of the wet vent is determined on all its fixture load 2 for shower 1 for lav. 3 total making him have 2 inch from lav to toilet. Under IPC he actually could run 1.5 inch to the shower it must be 6 foot from the lav vent. I never recommend using 1.5 inch on a shower it's just Piss Poor plumbing but I would have to pass it as long as there was only 1 shower head .

IPC also has shower trap sizing by amount of heads in the shower, Body showers and all that crap they install now.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

hammerlane said:


> Why is it that the distance from the toilet to the vent does not matter?


The table you posted in post #51 is a UPC table and does not apply to IPC regulated states. UPC would require the toilet to have a vent within 6', the shower within 5'. or they could share a common vertical vent.

I believe only the latest UPC edition allows a limited amount of horizontal residential wet venting. I'm not real sure on that as my state has it's own code that is adopted from UPC within the last 2 years.

But prior to - I believe 2012- UPC did not allow any horizontal wet vents- except what they call "combination waste and vent" (an engineered system used in large floor layouts such as grocery store floor drains)

Clear as mud, huh


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks! That's easier having to only deal with one vent pipe.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

That long post was trying to explain it all to hammerlane. When we changed code from our Ohio 1980 vent everything code to IPC we all had great doubts. AS it turned out it works fine last along time with one exception AAV use.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Ghostmaker said:


> That long post was trying to explain it all to hammerlane. When we changed code from our Ohio 1980 vent everything code to IPC we all had great doubts. AS it turned out it works fine last along time with one exception AAV use.


That long post scared me....lol


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## Buz42812 (Jan 11, 2015)

Not sure what areas heel inlet wouldn't be allowed they are approved in ipc and even here in nc where they use ipc but add millions of ammendments, hate to think there is stricter areas...But from how it looks toilet is about 10ft from stack, then lav about 3 ft from toilet and shower about 3 ft from lav so if taking lav vent through roof, no need to vent shower too...wouldn't hurt anything except add alot of extra un needed work, hell compromise and put a access panel to service shower valve and run studor vent to also be serviceable through access


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## Buz42812 (Jan 11, 2015)

Please don't misunderstand, I'm really not trying to be a smartalec, I've been a licensed plumber for 22yr in fl, va, nc and sc....I'm not doubting what your saying I've just never encountered anywhere stricter than nc and or Charleston sc


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Buz42812 said:


> Please don't misunderstand, I'm really not trying to be a smartalec, I've been a licensed plumber for 22yr in fl, va, nc and sc....I'm not doubting what your saying I've just never encountered anywhere stricter than nc and or Charleston sc


You need to move out west then.....


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks. Yeah those distances are about right. I just wanted to make sure that I get it right the first time. Don't want to have the inspector to have to come back and I certainly don't want to re do the work! Trying to still get the time to do it though. Hopefully this coming weekend will be my chance. Definitely having the sink vent be the only vent will save me a bunch of time and work.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

Buz42812 said:


> Please don't misunderstand, I'm really not trying to be a smartalec, I've been a licensed plumber for 22yr in fl, va, nc and sc....I'm not doubting what your saying I've just never encountered anywhere stricter than nc and or Charleston sc


 well let me tell you try working in and around pittsburgh pa ...inspectors follow the code to the tee...very little wiggle room...:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

This thing still going !! :wheelchair:


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Buz42812 said:


> Not sure what areas heel inlet wouldn't be allowed they are approved in ipc and even here in nc where they use ipc but add millions of ammendments, hate to think there is stricter areas...But from how it looks toilet is about 10ft from stack, then lav about 3 ft from toilet and shower about 3 ft from lav so if taking lav vent through roof, no need to vent shower too...wouldn't hurt anything except add alot of extra un needed work, hell compromise and put a access panel to service shower valve and run studor vent to also be serviceable through access


Heel inlets are not approved on a toilet.

*706.4 Heel-or side-inlet quarter bends. *Heel-inlet quarter bends shall be an acceptable means of connection, except where the quarter bend serves a water closet. A low-heel inlet shall not be used as a wet-vented connection. Side-inlet quarter bends shall be an acceptable means of connection for drainage, wet venting and stack venting arrangements.

Not Approved.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Just curious about this, because I seem to see it this way everywhere I look. The way I want to install my plumbing, my toilet is at the end of the line before it ties into the main septic line, with the vent for the toilet being supplied from the lav upstream. Almost everywhere I look online I see that the toilet is vented downstream of it. I am just curious as to why that seems to be so common vs what I am doing being so rare? You all say what I am doing will work to vent my toilet, and I'm sure it will, but it is just a discrepancy that is nagging at me. Thanks again!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

chronojosh said:


> Just curious about this, because I seem to see it this way everywhere I look. The way I want to install my plumbing, my toilet is at the end of the line before it ties into the main septic line, with the vent for the toilet being supplied from the lav upstream. Almost everywhere I look online I see that the toilet is vented downstream of it. I am just curious as to why that seems to be so common vs what I am doing being so rare? You all say what I am doing will work to vent my toilet, and I'm sure it will, but it is just a discrepancy that is nagging at me. Thanks again!


Can you reference a post or drawing that shows your layout?
This thread has gotten pretty long and I've lost track of your design.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

post 25 shows my layout. Thanks


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Chronojosh think about it a bit. Your toilet has feces a solid going down the pipe. This flows in the vertical on the outside of the pipe. How long do you think it will take to fill that pipe coming out of the end of that 90 to blocking the up stream drains. You asked for a legal good practice layout. It was given to you. What you do is up to you. Personally I hate snaking drains. If you are inspected then using the above heel outlet 90 is a rejection if your inspector is a good one.


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## Buz42812 (Jan 11, 2015)

Use this type and should be fine, nevet had inspector say a word and use all the time
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31adSo2ydmL._AA160_.jpg


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I do appreciate your advice, and I am very grateful that you have taken the time to answer my multiple questions. I won't be using the heel outlet, and using one was never my intent. I just wanted to verify one final time before I start cutting through the piping that my layout did have proper venting for all the fixtures and would work properly. Especially after seeing how toilets are more commonly upstream of vents. The wye 1/8 on its back will be what I am using for the toilet, because I have the room for it height wise. Thanks again for all the great advice and help.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Buz42812 fitting is also fine to use. As long as it is a high inlet.


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## grunyon (Jan 21, 2015)

great advice in this thread!


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

Side inlet 90 not permitted on a water closet IPC SFBC


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

So I passed my inspection. There wasn't much to it which surprised me. But after the inspector left, I started filling the trench in and realized I screwed up. The line from the sink to the shower sits too high. When I pour the concrete to patch the trench, it will be directly on top of the pipe. I know the concrete may crack, but I will be insulating the floor and putting down an isolation memrane before I tile. Should I continue on or am I screwed?


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

How thick will your crete be 3 inches no worries.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

It will be four inches everywhere, except over the top of this part of the pipe, it will only be 2. The section of pipe that is too high is about 12" long.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Then it will be under your shower base.


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