# How to conceal protruding breaker box



## wildecat (Feb 11, 2017)

Hi everyone!

I recently bought a condo and had to have the electrical box relocated (sigh). The good news is that the new location is only visible to those exiting the bathroom, and is not anywhere front and center. The bad news is that either the wall was too shallow, the box too deep, and/or the electrician not too caring, but the box not only sticks out of the wall, but also sticks out crookedly: 1/4" on the right and almost an inch on the left.

I read tips on how to cover up the electric panel with mirrors and paintings, but all those solutions assume the panel flush with the wall, which I haven't got.

Assuming my verrrrrrrrry basic DIY skills, would anyone have some (easy) ideas on how to 1) prettify the wall around the panel and under the cover, 2) cover up the panel, and 3) fix the crookedness (if necessary)?

That wall WILL be spackled and painted at some point in the near future, if that makes any difference.

Please and thank you!


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Get the electrician back to fix it.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

---------------------------------Welcome to the forums!--------------------

I agree. And don't even think of hiding it from fireman's view in a fire and they can't disconnect so it all burns down- and HO Insurance doesn't pay as you covered it from view per safety code. Even if you added some trim around it under the cover (which is adjustable), because the low side of box is not close enough to trim surface- would not meet code. May want to re-post in "Electrical" forum...

Gary


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## wildecat (Feb 11, 2017)

Well, the electrician was a rather unpleasant person to deal with, so I'd rather avoid the repeat experience, frankly. 

And the thing is: the panel passed the inspection, so that would mean it's up to code, even as is, when it sticks out? Yet, if I add some trim around the box, it wouldn't be up to code?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Electrical code does not restrict you from covering the panel. 
Build yourself a frame thick enough to extend past panel and put a hinged door on it. Leave about a 1/2 inch all the way around so the cover can be removed easily.
Then you can disguise it anyway you like. Paint it. Add a mirror. Wallpaper it. Paint a picture on it.
I have never heard of the insurance issue or the fireman issue. Electrical panels are hidden behind doors all the time.


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## wildecat (Feb 11, 2017)

joed said:


> Build yourself a frame thick enough to extend past panel and put a hinged door on it. Leave about a 1/2 inch all the way around so the cover can be removed easily.


Thank you! Would it make sense to put spackle or caulk around the metal casing to seal it in better to the wall? I was going to put moulding all around the metal box to hide the unevenness; should I even bother, if I go with your solution?

So, basically, build a frame around the box, then attach something to said frame with hinges, yes? Thanks very much for the suggestion!


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## Erico (Oct 24, 2016)

wildecat said:


> Thank you! Would it make sense to put spackle or caulk around the metal casing to seal it in better to the wall? I was going to put moulding all around the metal box to hide the unevenness; should I even bother, if I go with your solution?
> 
> So, basically, build a frame around the box, then attach something to said frame with hinges, yes? Thanks very much for the suggestion!


Just cover it. Don't bother fixing the sloppy work.

I like Joed's idea. Like a medicine cabinet with no back. A mirror so your more vain guests can check their hair one more time. 

I would make it wide enough to mount cleats on the inside for hanging. Be careful where you drill. Especially if you have romex.


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## wildecat (Feb 11, 2017)

Erico said:


> I would make it wide enough to mount cleats on the inside for hanging. Be careful where you drill. Especially if you have romex.


Thank you for the suggestion! Now, the really newbie portion of the post: would I use cleats to attach the frame to the wall?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

wildecat said:


> Thank you for the suggestion! Now, the really newbie portion of the post: would I use cleats to attach the frame to the wall?


You would need something that is thicker than the panel so the mirror would lay flat


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

You might want to google "french cleats". Pack out the wall with a piece or pieces of wood thicker than the circuit breaker panel largest projection, and then put your french cleats on that to hang the picture or mirror.

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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## Justin_99 (Jan 23, 2017)

There is a type of "deep" picture frame called a "shadow box". This would be for framing something like flowers or sea shells which stick out, but still having it covered with glass on the front.

You could however have a picture mounted on the front with the glass, then leave an empty space at the back. This would nicely fit over that electric panel. Here is a picture of a shadow box frame (get at a custom picture frame store)...


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## wildecat (Feb 11, 2017)

jeffmattero76 said:


> You might want to google "french cleats". Pack out the wall with a piece or pieces of wood thicker than the circuit breaker panel largest projection, and then put your french cleats on that to hang the picture or mirror.


I was actually going to follow the suggestion a bit earlier in the thread, to use hinges to mount picture/mirror/whatever to the frame, to make the panel easier to access by simply swinging the picture/mirror out, rather than having to take it off the frame.

My question is how I would go about attaching pieces of lumber to the wall, which is distressingly full of electrical things, and studs that are too far from the panel to be useful for attachments.


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## wildecat (Feb 11, 2017)

Justin_99 said:


> You could however have a picture mounted on the front with the glass, then leave an empty space at the back. This would nicely fit over that electric panel.


Oh, thank you! I haven't thought of that, because I thought shadow boxes were rather small, and my stupid panel cover is quite huge. But a bit of Googling revealed they do come in sizes from 'small' to 'enormous,' and hanging that over the panel might be a bit easier than building a frame on the wall with my very limited carpentry skill set.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I should have stated; "here in the U.S." before my answer... Canada, I have no idea. 

From a US electrician; "For breaker panels, an area referred to as the “working space” is the area around the breaker panel that must be free of any other installations. According to the NEC, the working space around the breaker panel must be at least 6′ 6” high and 3 feet square away from the wall, with 30” width. This allows the door to be opened to the panel, with nothing blocking the area."

"Breaker panels must be easily accessible. No furniture or other obstructions should be placed in the working space, making it easy to approach the front of the panel.'

"Of course, breaker panels can be put in main areas of the home or business, although most people prefer to have them out of sight. If they are in main areas, it is possible to paint the door or box of the panel to match the décor. However, they should not be covered with pictures or other ornaments that could make them difficult to find or access. The main considerations should be that the working space is adhered to, along with easy accessibility and illumination." From; https://hoffmanelectrical.com/choosing-a-location-breaker-panels/

That has been in effect around here for years- at least since I wired my addition in '98. From IRC;

"
E3705.7 Location ofovercurrent devices in or on premises. Overcurrent devices shall:


Be readily accessible.
Not be located where they will be exposed to physical damage.
Not be located where they will be in the vicinity of easily ignitible material such as in clothes closets.
Not be located in bathrooms.
Not be located over steps of a stairway.
Be installed so that the center of the grip of the operating handle of the switch or circuit breaker, when in its highest position, is not more than 6 feet 7 inches (2007 mm) above the floor or working platform."
The wood trim needs to be protected by metal (hence the metal panel box) if the box falls short, as I said; "E3907.3 Position in wall. In walls of concrete, tile or other noncombustible material, cabinets and panelboards shall be installed so that the front edge of the cabinet will not set back of the finished surface more than ¼ inch (6.4 mm). In walls constructed of wood or other combustible material, cabinets shall be flush with the finished surface or shall project there-from."


That 6'6" x 36" x 30" space includes air space, not just stuff on the ground. So, anything in front of the panel box.... one reason being the potential for fire in a panel, hence always the manufacturers door and "not in a closet"-- why put paper or cloth in front of the metal joints/gaps for fire to lite... and readily accessible.. no mirrors, please, someone's life may depend on how fast that breaker is manually tripped if defective when charged/grounded.


Gary


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