# What to do during rebuild due to termites



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Usually metal flashing is also installed on top of the concrete block as a barrier
Hopefully others will have some ideas/input


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## NailedIt (Jun 19, 2009)

I've never dealt with an active termite infestation as usually the home has been tented and bugs eradicated prior to my being called in. Search "termite shield" in this forum and google the same term. Apparently there is a method of preventing termites from getting to your foundation by applying a ditch of some specific granulated material, probably somewhat costly. Termites are getting through vertical voids between blocks? Your issue seems fairly complex, perhaps involving sealing your foundation wall, grading issues, flashing, etc... In your shoes, I'd eradicate the active pest problem and address the foundation issue first. damaged framing, if not thoroughly destroyed, may be possible to salvage vs. completely remove. If you post some pics there are some skilled pros that frequent this forum (I'm fairly new here, but I'm a framer/remodeler and DIY guy myself).


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

You need to install a termite shield over the block wall before you install the new plates. The plates should be pressure treated. It's not required by code if there is a barrier between the block/concrete but is good building practice. Timbor will give the new wood some degree of protection and is rated for the application you intend to use it for. However you still need to get the active termite problem treated or they will move on to whatever you have not treated via the infested wood. Anything that has active termites in it the Timbor will not have much effect on.

I know it's hard to swallow but you need to spend the money to hire a pest control company to treat for the termites. They can treat the soil and the voids in the block for you. Don't waste your time and money with box store termite treatments the money you think you save will be spent down the road when you have to rebuild everything again. In the long run money spent on a professional treatment will be money well spent. Also, you are right you need to correct the moisture problems as those will lead to other problems as well. I suspect this is on a crawlspace, if so while you are repairing the structure make sure the crawl is properly vented. You should have 1 vent per 150sqft of floor area with a vent located within 3' of the corners. 

The grade outside the structure being over the footer is fine as long as it is less than 6" from the siding. The issue with the water can be fixed by installing proper foundation drainage and waterproofing the foundation walls. This is normally done when the house is constructed but may be absent in older homes. You may want to leave this up to a professional company if you are not proficient at running equipment. You may need to brace the foundation walls. You may also need shoring walls depending on the depth of the excavation. 

If you haven't already pulled permits you need to do so. All the work you are doing requires building permits. Also make sure you remove as much of the infested wood members as possible. Obviously brace the walls and floors as necessary.


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