# Gap between ceiling and wall



## steelriver (Feb 1, 2012)

I'm converting my carport into a garage. I just finished drywalling the garage/kitchen shared wall. However, there is a gap (1/2"-3/4") between the wall and the ceiling (see photo... 
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee82/steel3rivers/Carport%20to%20Garage/IMAG2605.jpg). 

I planned on putting the drywall all the way up to meet the ceiling drywall (located just above the vinyl beadboard). The problem is that I incorrectly measured the electrical box opening, so now the top of the drywall doesn't go high enough. What would you recommend to close/seal this gap? Would it have to be done in a certain way knowing that the wall is adjacent to a living space? Once this is resolved, I have to get the final inspection (Fairfax County, VA). Thank you.


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## Beanfacekilla (Jan 7, 2012)

I read your post, and I would like to offer my $0.02

First off, I would like to talk about garages. 

If a garage is attached to any living space, it should be completely sealed from that living space. You are parking a car in there, starting the weedwhip, etc. Carbon monoxide can easily travel into the home via small cracks and crevices. That being said, it should be sealed in all areas so no carbon monoxide can enter the home. Code or no code, it is common sense. Seal it up tight. 

I am not sure of code, but I believe in my state the garage must be sealed up from the living space very well to pass final inspection.

As for the void in the corner, I don't know what to tell you. If you pack it with mud, it may crack eventually. But, if it's only 3/4" maybe it's fixable. In the picture you posted, it doesn't look too bad (however I can't see much detail). 

Personally, I would have recut a new piece of drywall to fix the incorrect cut. Drywall is fairly cheap, and you probably still might have been able to use the messed up sheet for something else. One problem mushrooms into more problems it seems.

I am sure there is a reason you chose to continue without cutting a new sheet. 

Perhaps someone with a bit of drywall expertise will offer their advice on finishing the corner.

This is just my opinion, take it or leave it. I hope you can take something from it that helps you.

Peace.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

I can't really see anything too bad, it would have Been simpler to raise the box the needed amount I think. oh well too late now!


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## Beanfacekilla (Jan 7, 2012)

coupe said:


> I can't really see anything too bad, *it would have Been simpler to raise the box the needed amount* I think. oh well too late now!


Duh! I did not think of that. Good point...


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

To late now but you should have used 12" sheets running horizontal for less seams. It needed to be 5/8 drywall on the wall facing the occupyed space, if not it's going to fail inspection if the inspector knows his codes. The top piece always goes in first. if it's run vertical like you did it's lifted to make it tight at the top. There should always be a 1/2 gap at the bottom to stop water and moisture from the concrete from wicking up the wall.
I know for a fact my inspector would never pass that job.


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## steelriver (Feb 1, 2012)

Thank you for the information and opinions. I'm working with my uncle on the project. He has more experience so I tend to defer to him and his opinions/methods. His time is limited, so it's just me now. So at this point, what would be the best course of action?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Tack some trim up at the wall to ceiling area quick before he comes to inspect.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Rip some 6" pieces or so, trace them while holding up tight to ceiling drywall, cut and screw to finish. Might want to cut-in the required light switch box next to the door while you wire in the wall remote for the opener to the vehicle door next to it....

Gary


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## steelriver (Feb 1, 2012)

Ok. Thanks.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Canned spray foam in the space and then either mud it or put up a little crown molding or trim of some sort.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Drywall or mud has to be there to fire-stop as it is in a garage, even* under* wood trim. As per minimum code to keep us safe, Type X on the house wall: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm

Gary


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

What about the fire great stuff?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Good point. Always check with your local AHJ. I know they will accept drywall.....

Gary


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## conspikuous (Feb 7, 2012)

I would just load that puppy up full of mud, let it set up for a day or so and then tape it, float it out.


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## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

conspikuous said:


> I would just load that puppy up full of mud, let it set up for a day or so and then tape it, float it out.


This, but it uses a lot of mud, use that "great stuff" first, use it conservatively. Then mud over that. I did this in the gaps for my garage, worked well.


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## steelriver (Feb 1, 2012)

I filled the gap with drywall strips and mud, and then nailed some quarter round over it. Passed final inspection today. Thanks to everyone for your input.

http://s228.photobucket.com/albums/...t to Garage/?action=view&current=IMAG2663.jpg


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## Jilligoat (Feb 8, 2012)

"If a garage is attached to any living space, it should be completely sealed from that living space. You are parking a car in there, starting the weedwhip, etc. Carbon monoxide can easily travel into the home via small cracks and crevices. That being said, it should be sealed in all areas so no carbon monoxide can enter the home. Code or no code, it is common sense. Seal it up tight. "

Beanfacekilla,

How would one go about completely sealing off the garage from the living space? The house I just purchased has an attached garage. I want to make sure when I redo the drywall that I do it right. And, we are both from MI, so if you know codes, please do share!! 
Thanks!

Jilligoat


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## sandshots (Feb 8, 2012)

use accoustical caulking to fill that gap. its made for applications like this.

we use it in commercial buildings all the time inside elevators, ac shafts, and walls that simply cannot be taped agains a steel beem or concrete deck.. its fire rated, flexible and paintable.


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## masterofall (May 27, 2010)

It is obvious to conspicous 1/2" to 3/4" is not alot of mud. Hope everything is sealed up right.


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