# Drywall crack/hole - Best way to fix?



## gunner666 (Jul 16, 2014)

I'd dig out anything that's popping out past the face of the wall and then just pack it with joint compound. When it's almost dry, sponge it and it will feather into the wall and be unnoticeable and avoids a sanding mess. Products labeled 'easy sand' etc compound are more likely to crack again vs something like 'all purpose'. Hot mud AKA setting type compound AKA 5 or 10 or 20 minute mud that you buy as powder and add water will hold the best but it doesn't feather in as well on the edges so you might have to do a second coat of all purpose premixed( unless maybe you sand it instead of sponging). I have read a lot of people say that neither of these products will adhere to bare wood like you got there, that you should maybe prime it first or glue or staple a piece of construction type paper to it first. But I just googled 'hot mud adhere to wood' and ehow is saying it's fine, so you might want to look into that. Caulk would be the least likely to crack out of anything so you might pack it with caulk and same for that verticle line if you can find a caulk that spackle will stick to or mix some hot mud or premixed spackle in with the caulk because if you just caulk it, the finish won't match. If you spackle over the caulk if it even will stick, then the spackle will crack if the wall splits again but it might just be a hairline crack in the pant and easy to re-fix. There's nothing that's going to stop the wall from moving again, so you might have to redo it every now and then.


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## gunner666 (Jul 16, 2014)

another thing, if you're really serious about getting the paint to match perfectly, instead of the hardware store trying to use the computer to match your existing paint, you might be better off buying a mini bottle of tint and a small thing of white paint and then doing trial and error after it dries. And a small thing of gloss paint to match the sheen, all trial and error after it dries because you can often get really inaccurate results trying using the computer to match a chip of paint you bring there.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

gunner666 said:


> I'd dig out anything that's popping out past the face of the wall and then just pack it with joint compound. When it's almost dry, sponge it and it will feather into the wall and be unnoticeable and avoids a sanding mess. Products labeled 'easy sand' etc compound are more likely to crack again vs something like 'all purpose'. Hot mud AKA setting type compound AKA 5 or 10 or 20 minute mud that you buy as powder and add water will hold the best but it doesn't feather in as well on the edges so you might have to do a second coat of all purpose premixed( unless maybe you sand it instead of sponging). I have read a lot of people say that neither of these products will adhere to bare wood like you got there, that you should maybe prime it first or glue or staple a piece of construction type paper to it first. But I just googled 'hot mud adhere to wood' and ehow is saying it's fine, so you might want to look into that. Caulk would be the least likely to crack out of anything so you might pack it with caulk and same for that verticle line if you can find a caulk that spackle will stick to or mix some hot mud or premixed spackle in with the caulk because if you just caulk it, the finish won't match. If you spackle over the caulk if it even will stick, then the spackle will crack if the wall splits again but it might just be a hairline crack in the pant and easy to re-fix. There's nothing that's going to stop the wall from moving again, so you might have to redo it every now and then.


You don't think I need to square the hole and replace with a piece of drywall? 

I was thinking that would be the best solution, and taping it. I like using the hot mud for the first coat of mesh tape followed by layers of pre-mixed.

The vertical line is a settling crack where 2 drywall pieces meet, again I was going to tape that thinking it was a permanent solution.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

gunner666 said:


> another thing, if you're really serious about getting the paint to match perfectly, instead of the hardware store trying to use the computer to match your existing paint, you might be better off buying a mini bottle of tint and a small thing of white paint and then doing trial and error after it dries. And a small thing of gloss paint to match the sheen, all trial and error after it dries because you can often get really inaccurate results trying using the computer to match a chip of paint you bring there.



I haven't painted yet, this is all prep to paint the walls and ceiling.


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## gunner666 (Jul 16, 2014)

you have to use hot mud if bedding mesh tape, other muds will cause it to crack. Nothing will stop the wall from potentially settling again. If you want to cut out pieces of drywall and install new, same thing pretty much.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Fill it with hot mud finish it with joint compound.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I would use tape there, but hot mud with no other cutting or backing should work fine other than that.


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## MT Stringer (Oct 19, 2008)

The big box stores sell patch panels, some are metal, some are not. They come in several sizes from 6x6 and larger. Check em out and see if that will work for you.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I personally would not bother with a patch panel here, because that spot on the seam needs tape anyway.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Also note the design flaw (at least in my eyes). Looks like a lot of weight (hallway) bearing down on that doorway below. I would suspect that design is causing a stress area above that doorway. I think this could potentially be an ongoing problem (cracking and re-patching).


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Probably so - either the wall is load bearing (in the traditional sense of actually supporting the roof), or it is bearing some load from the floor above, and I'll bet there isn't a substantial enough header above that door. Assuming reaonable framing on that door wall otherwise, it seems like if there were a good 12x solid header there, the wall could not crack in that particular way.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

jeffnc said:


> Probably so - either the wall is load bearing (in the traditional sense of actually supporting the roof), or it is bearing some load from the floor above, and I'll bet there isn't a substantial enough header above that door. Assuming reaonable framing on that door wall otherwise, it seems like if there were a good 12x solid header there, the wall could not crack in that particular way.


Looks like the top of the header in the pic. I'd guess 2 x 12.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Didn't look like it to me, but I could easily be wrong.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Interesting info on the load bearing, I will certainly be keeping my eyes on this after repair. To fix the vertical crack I know I should use hot mud + paper tape. I may use mesh instead.. 

For the hole that has cracked gypsum, should I square that up and be replacing it w a small piece of drywall? 

Or is filling it w hot mud good enough to keep it strong? If I do this should I tape a couple pieces of tape next to each other (and overlap) to cover it if I just use hot mud to fill?


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

So no need to patch, just fill the hole w hot mud, apply 2 pieces of tape next to each other, followed by more mud?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The installers should not have a joint there, breaking on a structural header, there could have been a gap above the header on one side due to a shorter trimmer or sloppy framing, wet wood at construction, etc. eg; http://support.sbcindustry.com/images/technotes/T-GypsumInstallation09.pdf; IMO, widen it out and add a strip of welded wire mesh screening- bedded in hot mud, then a layer of paper tape over that- with a thin coat of hot mud under/over, then your air-drying topping coat.

Gary


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Gary in WA said:


> The installers should not have a joint there, breaking on a structural header, there could have been a gap above the header on one side due to a shorter trimmer or sloppy framing, wet wood at construction, etc. eg; http://support.sbcindustry.com/images/technotes/T-GypsumInstallation09.pdf; IMO, widen it out and add a strip of welded wire mesh screening- bedded in hot mud, then a layer of paper tape over that- with a thin coat of hot mud under/over, then your air-drying topping coat.
> 
> Gary


Are you referring to widening the hole? And if so how much more would you widen it?

Do I put the screening OVER the hole or try to get it INSIDE the perimeter edges?

Thanks for the idea :thumbsup: Just curious why nobody has recommended to patch the hole with drywall? Is that because it will 'move' again and crack?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Actually Gary has a good point.

You see people leaving seams in drywall directly over the door jamb _all the time. _Which is part of the reason you see cracks over door jambs _all the time._As described here.

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/drywall-installation-openings.html#.VTpmDfAYHTc
So the normal proper way is shown there as well.

Or if you wanted to do a patch job, you could do it like this.
http://tomsnewhome.info/detailFloorsDrywall/doorEllPanel.jpg

But of course in this situation the problem area is directly above the door in the header area, so it would be best if the drywall were all one solid sheet.
http://images.meredith.com/diy/images/2009/02/p_SCDW_066_06b.jpg


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Damn, so the correct way is to cutout a rectangular piece that fits halfway above the door on the header and extends down the door. 

In that 2nd picture, the patch job doesn't extend across the full header. It looks like they still have a seam above the header as you go into the room.

It's hard to tell on mine if it was done right, it looks like it could have been since all I can see is the vertical crack above the door.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

cjaustin81 said:


> Damn, so the correct way is to cutout a rectangular piece that fits halfway above the door on the header and extends down the door.


I'm saying that's the standard way that usually works, when a full sheet can't be used. But in your case, it's not the right approach.

This Family Handyman article lists the things not to do, as illustrated by this picture:
http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Projects/FH06MAR_DRYMIS_01.JPG



cjaustin81 said:


> In that 2nd picture, the patch job doesn't extend across the full header. It looks like they still have a seam above the header as you go into the room.


Exactly. That would be a correct standard patch, but not in your case.



cjaustin81 said:


> It's hard to tell on mine if it was done right, it looks like it could have been since all I can see is the vertical crack above the door.


Yes exactly, but as Gary was saying, it's probably not right in this case because of that unusual structural situation above it. In your case, this would be the correct approach, if you feel like redoing it. This guy is cutting the hole in the doorway from a full sheet, with no seams above the door at all.
http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zSmH5-gmUKk/hqdefault.jpg


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

jeffnc said:


> I'm saying that's the standard way that usually works, when a full sheet can't be used. But in your case, it's not the right approach.
> 
> This Family Handyman article lists the things not to do, as illustrated by this picture:
> http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Projects/FH06MAR_DRYMIS_01.JPG
> ...


Ahh ok, so because of my unusual situation of having the hallway and structure above the door you don't use a seam in the middle above. rather they should have cut a piece of drywall "around" the top that also goes along the sides of the door. 

With that being said, that would be a decent amount of work to fix this. I'm wondering if I should do all of that or just patch it up. The wire mesh idea sounds tempting and then if it cracks again maybe do it up right.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Yeah, I'd probably try a patch first.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

jeffnc said:


> Yeah, I'd probably try a patch first.


Would you patch with a piece of drywall, or use a mesh screen like was mentioned above w hot mud?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Just plain drywall leaves you roughly where you are now. I haven't done Gary's wire mesh idea before, but it sounds worth a try to me.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

It does seem like a good idea to use the wire mesh. I wasn't sure if he meant to lay a piece over the hole (after I widen it) or somehow lodge the wire mesh 'inside' the hole.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Gary in WA said:


> The installers should not have a joint there, breaking on a structural header, there could have been a gap above the header on one side due to a shorter trimmer or sloppy framing, wet wood at construction, etc. eg; http://support.sbcindustry.com/images/technotes/T-GypsumInstallation09.pdf; IMO, widen it out and add a strip of welded wire mesh screening- bedded in hot mud, then a layer of paper tape over that- with a thin coat of hot mud under/over, then your air-drying topping coat.
> 
> Gary


I wasn't sure what type of welded wire mesh to buy so I got these two. Are either of these the type I should use?

How should I attach it? Does it go over the hole or inside it? 

Thanks. 

Got this at Menards, by the drywall.









Got this at HD, it's 1/2" hardware cloth in 19 gauge.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The first pic is stucco screen, it has cups to hold material from slouching on a wall application which would stand proud of the flat surface you want; take it back. I use strips (1-1/2" wide) of insect screen with 1/8" grids, made for DIY soffit screening over the holes drilled for attic ventilation. Mine is similar (welded wire-galvanized) to the second pic but in 1/8" squares.... The stucco mesh will stretch, welded wire won't. Try it with only paper tape/setting compound with some diagonal strips every 3" to help hold each sheet together to resist future movement.

As it is a wallboard joint and has been filled with compound already, you need to remove some on each side of the joint for the new material to sit flush/same level as it is now.

Gary


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Do you have a pic of the mesh your talking about? Does this mesh go over the hole or inside it?

I'm trying to visualize this. The right side of the joint is perfect, it's just the left side that needs repair. Why would I widen the right side?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The mesh goes over the hole/joint with compound over that. Like a regular joint but using much stronger "tape" (screen). Hole patching; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAxNLsBWFgI&feature=relmfu

Texture matching; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WdMo403QxQ&feature=related

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG/...all-repair-kits-application-tips-en-J1802.pdf

Jeff may explain it better...

Gary


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Says the videos don't exist.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

cjaustin81 said:


> The right side of the joint is perfect, it's just the left side that needs repair. Why would I widen the right side?


You have to redo the entire joint, not just half of it. The whole joint needs to be replaced, so to do that the tape has to come out of the entire joint.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I didn't realize I had to remove the tape along the joint. I did a v-cut and was going to tape over the old tape.. But if I should remove the old tape I can. 

When I remove the old tape, is that when I widen the joint out? How wide should I get it? To the original ends of the wallboard?

So that covers the joint. 

I'm still confused about where this mesh would go. I have two areas of repair here 1) the joint 2) the hole. Is the mesh for just the hole? Or do I use that along the joint too?

Thanks


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I think I might have figured out what Gary was describing. Let me show the steps to see if I'm right;

1) remove the old tape holding joint.
2) remove old compound holding joint (this is the widening part) but don't cut any drywall just widen it by removing joint compound that's in the joint.
3) apply hot mud to the joint AND hole.
4) every 3" along the joint place a diagnal strip of the 1-1/2" wide wire mesh. 
5) also use this mesh to cover the entire hole?
6) hot mud over joint and hole. 
7) paper tape joint AND hole?
8) finish patch job w premixed mud and feather.

Let me know if this looks right and will begin. I wasn't sure about steps 5 and 7. Should I use the mesh to fully cover that hole after I bed some hot mud in?


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Gary,

I drew a picture of what I think you were describing to me. Let me know if this looks correct. Basically I have diagonal strips of aluminum mesh screening (1-1/2" wide) every 3" along the joint. I then completely cover the hole w the wire screen mesh. Then tape over the joint and hole (where screening was added).


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