# BM Advance



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

What type of brush are you using? A QUALITY brush like a Purdy or a Wooster 2 1/2" nylon brush leaves virtually no brush marks with a superior leveling paint like Advance.

I'm an SW guy, so I use ProClassic and rarely get any brush marks. In fact, the Proclassic looks as though it was sprayed on. Just remember, with today's paints you have to really hustle........brush it on and leave it alone. Or, you can use a Whizz roller to get the paint on quickly and then back brush immediately.


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## MsKitty32 (Jan 24, 2013)

I am using a Wooster Silver Tip (made with CT polyester filaments) but it's only 1 1/2 inches. I thought a smaller one would be easier to handle but I think I just realized a smaller one would leave more marks. Dur! I do have another brush of the same type but 2 1/2 inches.

I think I am moving fast enough. I think I may go over a spot more than once if I see a high spot. 

I read about the ProClassic and I might have considered it more if we had a local SW dealer


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I doubt you will find a better leveling paint to brush than Advance. I find the key to getting maximum leveling out of that paint is to apply a generous coat as quickly as possible. That can be a little tricky with Advance because the leveling qualities of the material make it prone to run, but it is essential for good leveling. Too thin of a coat will dry so fast it doesn't have a chance to flow together and level out. 

What works best for me is to use a mini roller in conjunction with a brush. I like a 4" microfiber roller with a 3/8 - 1/2 inch nap. Spread the paint with the roller and quickly tip it off with the brush. The roller more easily applies and spreads the material and the brush helps it lay down. 

Till you get the hang of it, look back over your work after a few minutes. At this point any runs can be brushed out without marring the finish too badly.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

IMO the silver tips aren't the best brush for trim work. The stiff polyester bristles tend to pull the coat too thin, and the size of the bristles themselves lead to more prominent brush strokes. A softer nylon, nylon polyester blend, or chinex brush provides better results for me.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

And one of the peculiarities (thanks spell check) of both Advance and Pro Classic is DON'T overwork it. Put it on leave it alone, yes you will see brush marks. Let the levelers do their job. Try it on some scrap. When dry the brush marks will be gone. And yes try another brush a softer one.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

We were rolling advance on trim in one house and it would constantly bubble and dry before the bubbles could pop.


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## MsKitty32 (Jan 24, 2013)

Tomorrow (provided we don't get too much snow) I will head to the store and find a softer 2.5 inch brush as suggested and pick up a couple of small microfiber (if I can find them) rollers.

When rolling I just want to make one swipe with the brush after to smooth out the paint, yes? Hopefully it doesn't bubble too much.

I've already put two coats on some of the window trim using the brush thinking more coats might help the marks so I hope adding a third isn't going to affect the paint properties.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Matthewt1970 said:


> We were rolling advance on trim in one house and it would constantly bubble and dry before the bubbles could pop.


Matt you may have had another problem. the reason I say this is one of the disadvantages of the Advance is it's slow dry time, like 16 hours to re-coat. One mistake people make with Advance is adding Flotrol to eliminate brush marks. Advance and Flotrol don't play well together.


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## sgryan (Nov 13, 2014)

Great advice above. I was about to suggest adding floetrol by flood. Toolseeker, any info about why they don't play well together?

I had no problem when i used with Pro-Classic or the latex version of Satin Impervo.

XIM has a product similar to Flood: Latex X-tender. Has anyone used it? any luck?


*Latex X-Tender*


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Since you have a BM store, you can pick up a Benjamin Moore 65125 brush, this is a pretty good brush to use with the runnier paints like Advance, as opposed to the thicker acrylic paints that a lot of the brushes are designed for nowadays.

If you're getting a lot of brushmarks, most likely you're probably overworking the paint, or making too small brush strokes. That's why the roller technique is good for getting paint on bookshelves quickly, and then simply using the brush to smooth it out. Bookshelves are easy because even if you put the paint on a bit too thick, you're not going to get any sags or runs because the shelves are flat and the paint will level out. Get the paint on with the roller, then with one smooth motion brush lightly all the way across the surface, slightly overlapping each "lane" until you've brushed the whole surface.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

sgryan said:


> Great advice above. I was about to suggest adding floetrol by flood. Toolseeker, any info about why they don't play well together?
> 
> I had no problem when i used with Pro-Classic or the latex version of Satin Impervo.
> 
> ...



Floetrol or XIM extender are fine for many acrylic paints, but Advance is not acrylic. It is waterborne, but the resins are %100 alkyd. The dried film is almost indistinguishable from a solvent borne alkyd.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> Matt you may have had another problem. the reason I say this is one of the disadvantages of the Advance is it's slow dry time, like 16 hours to re-coat. One mistake people make with Advance is adding Flotrol to eliminate brush marks. Advance and Flotrol don't play well together.


We tried it straight with nothing added, we tried it with water, with Flotrol, with Flotrol and water, we tried different naps, it would still bubble and dry. And I didn't think it was very slow at all to dry.


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## sgryan (Nov 13, 2014)

Jmayspaint, Nice explaination. I will try it on next project. 

.....so is it reasonable to think you could use Penetrol in the Advance product since the resins are 100% alkyd? 

Does BM have any recommendations on how to thin and extend the open time of the film?


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## MsKitty32 (Jan 24, 2013)

I just wanted to give an update and thank you for the advice. The roller is working very well along with the new Chinex brush. 

I do find that the Advance dries pretty quickly and I almost want to re-coat much sooner than the 16 hours.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

sgryan said:


> Jmayspaint, Nice explaination. I will try it on next project.
> 
> .....so is it reasonable to think you could use Penetrol in the Advance product since the resins are 100% alkyd?
> 
> Does BM have any recommendations on how to thin and extend the open time of the film?


The only thing BM recommends is clean water and not much of it.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

ToolSeeker said:


> The only thing BM recommends is clean water and not much of it.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Personally, I would not even do that:no:


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

No I wouldn't either in fact what they really say is thinning is not recommended at all but if you do thin it it use clean water.


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## kt82 (Jan 28, 2009)

why not just use Impervo and get perfection with out trying to hard ??


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