# Draining laundry sink into washer stack?



## glamgirrl (Feb 19, 2010)

I'm installing a laundry tub next to the washer in my main floor laundry room. These are photos of the current set up...the water comes up from the basement by hoses to the washer. Then there's this other, extra cold water copper pipe sticking up, don't know why , but I'm hoping I can use it to get cold water at the laundry tub. Hot I'll figure out later. :huhIt came this way when I bought the place-I didn't do it!) 

I'm trying to figure out the correct way to drain the laundry tub into the washer stck...do I put the wye in _above or below_ where the washer drains. I know the washer has to drain at about the height is now, but I could extend the pipe up about a foot if I need to drain the laundry tub above it. My question is- if the tub drains above the washer, is the water fromt he tub _really_ going to make it all the way up there to get to the drain? Seems wrong to me...

I'm thinking it would be better to drain the tub below the washer (like in my rudimentary diagram-I'm no artist). Is this code acceptable? Will it work? Are there any issues here I'm not aware of? I wonder about the washer backing up into the sink when it drains- is there a way to avoid that? Some kind of valve perhaps? There doesn't seem to be a vent stack here- just the drain. Although the kitchen sink is on the other side of the wall..I bet it's in the wall somewhere.

The other image is of the P-trap under the sink...I've only dryfitted it-does it look OK?

Thanks for your advice folks, I'm pretty handy, but mostly with carpentry so far.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

I dont seea vent for your current washer standpipe. 
By tapping into that washer standpipe for the laundry sink, the p-trap for the laundry sink may get siphoned out when the large flow of water from the washer discharge begins flowing.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I can't understand how the washer drain is working now. If that drain system is closed where is the vent coming from?

I also can't imagine how you would drain the sink into the existing drain "above" the washer drain, how's that gonna work? The sink drain to the drain line must be lower than the bottom of the sink, no?

Doesn't water still run downhill and drain by means of gravity or has Barrie changed that too?

What on earth am I missing?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

You're right Bud. The top of that Wye looked to be capped or has duct tape on it. Also the branch of that wye where the washer drain attaches to looks to have a trap adaptor on it sealing it???


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

There is a reason "all" washer drain hoses come with a goose-neck on the end. That is to hang the drain hose in an open standpipe. The open standpipe serves as a secondary vent. I don't think the standpipe should be closed off for any reason.

If the standpipe was open and the washer drain had the original gooseneck to hang in the standpipe, then the sink drain could be cut in below the bottom of the sink somewhere and all should work okay. In reality there should also be a vent stack near that drain line that goes all the up and out of the building.

There also seems to be a missing trap for the standpipe.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

They are using that trap adaptor because they are draining into the Wye branch. Cut that Wye out and just like you said hang the hose.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Looka as if the hose has been altered already, maybe ruined.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

You may want to call a plumber, there are several decencies with your system as it is:

1) The supply pipe should be supported for safety (broken pipe) reasons.
2) The drain stack needs a vent. This could be as easy as installing a AAV at the female pipe fitting now covered with duct tap
3) The washing machine needs a trap
4) The tub will need to drain into the stack below the washer trap. The trap arm of the tub may need a AAV so that siphoning will not occur. I do not believe that the stack is adequate large by code to act as a wet vent for the tub. While it would not meet code, you may be able to use the stack as a wet vent with very little deleterious effects


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## glamgirrl (Feb 19, 2010)

*There is a trap...*

"There is a reason "all" washer drain hoses come with a goose-neck on the end. That is to hang the drain hose in an open standpipe. The open standpipe serves as a secondary vent. I don't think the standpipe should be closed off for any reason." The end was taped when I moved in, since the washer works fine, I never removed it, fo fear of what I might find. You think it should be open?

If the standpipe was open and the washer drain had the original gooseneck to hang in the standpipe,(the drain is attatched into the standpipe, not loose) then the sink drain could be cut in below the bottom of the sink somewhere and all should work okay. In reality there should also be a vent stack near that drain line that goes all the up and out of the building. I think the vent stack is inside the wall, because the kitchen sink is on the other side of the laundry room wall.

There also seems to be a missing trap for the standpipe.[/quote]
There is a trap for the washer under the floor in the basement.

So, can I just tap into the standpipe with a wye below the washer drain, or not? 
Thanks,


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> So, can I just tap into the standpipe with a wye below the washer drain, or not?


I would say YES.


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## glamgirrl (Feb 19, 2010)

*Thanks!*

Thank you Bud! Much appreciated! 
I thoguht that would work, but it's good to get other opinions too, right? 
:thumbsup:


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

As long as the drain is now accepting the high sudden volume of water being discharged from the washer then that water shouldn't back up in the sink.

If it was me I would re-install the washer goose-neck and open the top of the drain stack to hang it in, thereby affording additional venting.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

I would still recommend getting a plumber in

1) If the stand pipe is serviced by a trap, then the location of the trap is much too low

2) We do not know if said trap is properly vented

3) If the stand pipe is serviced by a trap, what is the purpose of you adding a trap to the tub? There is none, because the drain circuit is already trapped.

4) There is no need for a "secondary vent". In fact, such an application is precluded by code. A vent should either go to atmosphere outside the house, or be protected by an AAV

What you have now is a complete mess, and should be cleaned up


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## broox (Nov 30, 2010)

Tie into the standpipe. It will be fine. You could use a tee or a wye/combo to tie in. You do not have to put a trap under the sink, but there is nothing wrong with using it since you already have it. Good luck.


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## glamgirrl (Feb 19, 2010)

*The P-trap under the sink*

I realize it's probably not needed, since there is one just under the floorboards..._not_ too low for the washer, but it's more in case I drop something in the sink- i can fish it out at the P-trap under the sink.
Thanks for all the advice fellas, I think I've got it now. 
And, Mr. Anti wingnut, thank you for your opinion, but if I could afford to hire a plumber, I wouldn't be asking how to do this! :no:


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

Double traps are prohibited by all plumbing codes and jurisdictions that I am aware of. There are also prohibitations on the vertical hieght from the drain to the trap, which your washer stack would presumably be in violation of. But if you are all hell bent in doing things improperly, go for it baby


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Code restricts the vertical distance between a fixture outlet and the trap weir to 24 inches. Vertical lengths that exceed that maximum length can lead to selp siphoning of the trap. In the photo it easily looks as if the vertical ABS is about 30 inches before it goes thru the floor.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

It doesn't matter what we tell her. She wants to do it her way, right or wrong. :whistling2:


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

*DIY *
*Chatroom*
*A place for doing it yourself Do It Yourselfers.*​


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## broox (Nov 30, 2010)

Alright, let's be a little less condescending? I go into many houses that have this exact setup for a washer machine drain. I know that now you have to have the trap for a washer above the floor with a san tee and a vent thru the roof, but 20-30 years ago you did not have to. And those systems still work. I see it all the time. Now lets talk about something we can all agree on: like abortion, or the best color


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

I agree it will work.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

broox said:


> I know that now you have to have the trap for a washer above the floor with a san tee and a vent thru the roof, but 20-30 years ago you did not have to


Probably not. I have had this conversation multiple times with my father, who was a plumber starting in the late forties, through running one of the bigger union plumbing contractors in Seattle into the seventies. In his systematic knowledge of the plumbing codes, it has always been a requirement to vent every trap. So if a washer drained into an un vented trap, it was because it was jack legged in, or is serviced by a vent you are unaware of broox. It has always been a code requirement to service a trap with a vent, and to imply otherwise is probably in error


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## glamgirrl (Feb 19, 2010)

*Sheesh fellas!*

Ok...let's get something straight here gentlemen- I do want to do this the right way...not 'my way'. I don't have a 'way', which is why I'm asking. :confused1:

My house was built in the 40's, so code was proabably different then, right? It sounds like the washer trap should be above the floor, not below. That's fine, I can move it up to within 24". Then I won't need one on the sink, correct? I know 2 is against code- I did read that somewhere.

So, it'll look like this- washer drains into the side near the top, then the sink drains in just below the sink, then the trap just above the floor. There IS a vent in the wall for the kitchen sink in the room on the other side of the wall. It hooks in to this pipe under the floor. 

Does that work for everyone? Is it acceptable, and will it work?
Final answers please....


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## broox (Nov 30, 2010)

Alright Glamorgirl. Have you seen that cartoon with the guy on the computer and his wife asks him if he is coming to bed and his reply is "I can't, there is someone wrong on the internet." I am afraid this post might devolve into that.

Again, I think your original plan will work and work well. If it does not, you can spend all the extra time and money to do it the much more involved way. Good luck


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

broox said:


> Alright Glamorgirl. Have you seen that cartoon with the guy on the computer and his wife asks him if he is coming to bed and his reply is "I can't, there is someone wrong on the internet." I am afraid this post might devolve into that.
> 
> Again, I think your original plan will work and work well. If it does not, you can spend all the extra time and money to do it the much more involved way. Good luck


I couldn't agree more.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

This setup would not be hard to do:

Also what is your vertical distance from where the washer drain hose enters the ABS to where the trap is in the basement?


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

hammerlane said:


> This setup would not be hard to do


You would also remove the existing trap under the floor if you were to do as hammerlane suggests


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Anti-wingnut said:


> You would also remove the existing trap under the floor if you were to do as hammerlane suggests


I forgot to put that in the above post but assumed it was obvious.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

No, your diagram is very good. The (bottom) wye should also be replaced with a sanitary tee. As it is presently drawn, it looks like you end up with a de facto "S" trap.

But again, a very fine depiction of what should be done to do it totally correct


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## glamgirrl (Feb 19, 2010)

*Great diagram!*

Thanks Hammerlane! That diagram really helps! And it's nice to know what an 'AAV' is too...LOL

I can do as the diagram suggests, but the washer standpipe will have to be closer to the the current straight pipe- I don't have a a lot of room to work there. One question though- how is the washer standpipe supported? Do I strap it to the wall or something? Surely it needs some support somehow? 

Thanks,


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

On top of everything else a mechanical discharge (anything with a pump) must be piped below a gravity discharge.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

they only put duct tape over the top because either water or soap suds would come out when washer is discharging....need to change entire set up to accept new tray and install vent making sure not to double trap system...ben


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

I would remove the existing below the floor trap, reuse the drain to plumb the sink with a trap and add an AAV for the sink. Now drain the washer into the sink.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

Anti-wingnut said:


> I would still recommend getting a plumber in
> 
> 1) If the stand pipe is serviced by a trap, then the location of the trap is much too low
> 
> ...


 
Don’t you just love the way some DIY’ers Butcher the code even though they are being told how to do it correct way, if you r asking for help, do it the correct way, there is a reason why a plumbing code was put together just because you pipe something in and it works doesn’t mean it won’t have some adverse effect in some fashion down the road, . There are some things the DIY’ers should stay away from.


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