# fastening drywall to ceiling with more than 24" spans



## pmp (Feb 6, 2019)

Hello!

Redoing my bathroom, getting ready to drywall the ceiling. This old house is from 1906, and the spacing of the rafters are wonky.. something like:

| <-- 25" --> | <-- 28" --> | <-- 24" --> |


I'm wondering if I can get away with _not_ using strapping (perpendicularly) to provide 16 OC. 

Like, I'd be screwing every 8 inches along the rafters -- but between rafters, there would be one span that's about 27" ... is there a high risk it sags? Anyone dealt with this?

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pmp said:


> Hello!
> 
> Redoing my bathroom, getting ready to drywall the ceiling. This old house is from 1906, and the spacing of the rafters are wonky.. something like:
> 
> ...


That would be the trick, if you are using 5/8 you can do 24" on center.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

With just one room, map out where your 4' and 8' seams will land and then add nailers along the existing rafters or perpendicular to them but flush at the bottom.

Is there an attic above this room or a second floor?

Bud


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Bud said it best but you could also add bridging to screw to.


Why not strapping? Screwing into new strapping is a lot easier that 113 year joists. I would do strapping for that reason alone.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

All good info. Strapping would be my first choice also. If not block in the the wide bays that are over 24" OC. 5/8 drywall is a must, put in 2 screws together every 12" across. So 10 screws total per row.
Spacing 8" will not help the inevitable sag from a wide span.


Example from a recent job


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

While you said "rafters", I assume you mean joist. Either ceiling joist if there is a attic above or floor joist is there is a floor above.
My suggestion would be (Now this is going to a bit of extreme but would insure that you have a flat and level surface to hang your ceiling drywall)
First cut bunch of 2x4 nailer blocks. The length of these nailer blocks would be slightly less than the width of the existing joist. Nail or screw one nailer block to each side of each joist about every 48 inches. Cut two lengths of 2x4 long enough to reach from wall to wall along side each existing joist and rest on the wall plates.
Using the longest straight edge you can, determine if the bottom edge of the existing joist are level and even. If so, place your 2x4 lengths on the wall plates and nail or screw to the nailer blocking.
If you find that the bottom edge of one or more existing joist is significantly lower than the others, say 1/4", notch the bottom edge of each end of your 2x4 lengths by that amount. Let's say that you do find that one or more of the existing joist are 1/4" below the highest joist. Notching both ends all of your 2x4's will lower the bottom edge of all of your 2x4's to be even with bottom edge of the lowest existing joist when resting on the wall plates. The addition of the 2x4 blocking and the 2x4 lengths will reduce the spans between the joist by 6" and be well withing the standard 24" span for ceiling joist.

As previously stated this is going to a bit of extreme but should give you a flat and level surface to attach your dry wall. Cost of doing this should be about an hour or so work and 6 or 8 2x4s.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

hkstroud said:


> While you said "rafters", I assume you mean joist. Either ceiling joist if there is a attic above or floor joist is there is a floor above.
> My suggestion would be (Now this is going to a bit of extreme but would insure that you have a flat and level surface to hang your ceiling drywall)
> First cut bunch of 2x4 nailer blocks. The length of these nailer blocks would be slightly less than the width of the existing joist. Nail or screw one nailer block to each side of each joist about every 48 inches. Cut two lengths of 2x4 long enough to reach from wall to wall along side each existing joist and rest on the wall plates.
> Using the longest straight edge you can, determine if the bottom edge of the existing joist are level and even. If so, place your 2x4 lengths on the wall plates and nail or screw to the nailer blocking.
> ...





Wouldn't it just be easier to strap it out and shim as needed?


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## Spyder (Jan 11, 2019)

Cheap and dirty way, if the ceiling isn't far out of level.
For the 28" bay, nail a 2x4 to either side of the bay. This effectively narrows the span 3" bringing it down to 25". Install 5/8" drywall and call it good.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Use the USG metal grid tee's put the wall angle on the joist & insert the tee's in the angle now you will have more support than is required.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

> Wouldn't it just be easier to strap it out and shim as needed?


Maybe, but PMP said he didn't want to use strapping. PMP can take this concept and do the entire ceiling or if the ceiling joist are reasonably level only do the bays that are unusually wide. I know of no requirement to use 5/8" drywall for joist 24" on center. My roof trusses are 24" on center with 1/2" drywall. Been there 30 years and haven't 24'" bowed. Garage is 5/8" for fire protection.
This approach is the simply, no thinking way to insure a flat, level ceiling but does cost a few 2x4s.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

pmp said:


> Hello!
> 
> Redoing my bathroom, getting ready to drywall the ceiling. This old house is from 1906, and the spacing of the rafters are wonky.. something like:
> 
> ...


Make your life easier and the job come out better by strapping at 16" o.c. as you suggested. Heck, you can also level the ceiling at the same time. Believe me, the 45 minutes it'll take you will pay off when it comes to hanging and screwing.


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## pmp (Feb 6, 2019)

Thank you for all the good tips everyone. I think I will end up putting up strapping after all, but learned a lot of "collateral info" around this topic by asking you your opinions--so all is not wasted! 

Thanks again


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