# Gas dryer - installing flexible gas line



## mspmatt (Dec 28, 2011)

I have a gas dryer and a kink in the copper gas line.
Installed around 1990, the copper runs from the main line connection all the way to the elbow just a few inches from the dryer.
The line runs across my unfinished basement ceiling and then down the wall behind the dryer.
There is a fairly deep kink in the copper tubing just above the elbow.
The gas shut-off is located where it connects to the main line (near my furnace).

I would like to insert a flexible gas line to the dryer, which would allow me to pull the dryer out from the wall without having it tugging on the copper tubing like it does now. I see that there are some flexible gas line kits available at Home Depot.

I live in MN and I'm not sure what code would be for flexible gas lines to a dryer. I read somewhere that the shutoff needs to be within 6' of the appliance? Is that true in most states?

Assuming the flexible gas line is about 6' or so, I'm thinking that I would just cut the copper about 5' up the wall and behind the dryer. Then, I would need to flare the end of the copper pipe. Does that seem about right?

Should I install another shut-off valve where the flexible line meets the copper? That would result in one near the dryer and then another shut-off at the other end of the copper where it meets up with the main line into the home.

Any other thoughts or ideas are appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your help.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Don't take this personal but I guess suggest you hire the work done by a licensed gas fitter


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## mspmatt (Dec 28, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> Don't take this personal but I guess suggest you hire the work done by a licensed gas fitter


No offense taken. I'm handy and more than capable of doing the job, testing for leaks, etc. I just want to make sure I understand what would be the proper connections and I would like to bring it up to code.


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

that exsisitng flare into the elbow is the same as the copper line flare nut remove it and connect the flex to the double wrench it after finger tight then 1/2 turn..some dish soap in a spray bottle over the fittings you wrenched...


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

I would get rid of all the copper piping to dryer.....I would install either gas tite or iron pipe to dryer area...drop pipe down the wall install valve about 1 foot above back of dryer...then install stainless steel flex connector...should meet code....and that is the right way,,Ben


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## mspmatt (Dec 28, 2011)

ben's plumbing said:


> I would get rid of all the copper piping to dryer.....I would install either gas tite or iron pipe to dryer area...drop pipe down the wall install valve about 1 foot above back of dryer...then install stainless steel flex connector...should meet code....and that is the right way,,Ben


Thanks Ben. Great advice.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> Don't take this personal but I guess suggest you hire the work done by a licensed gas fitter


When it comes to some DIY work , gas should not be something the homeowner or an inexperienced handyman should attempt. While it may seem like a simple tasks, it can bring unexpected complication down the road, there is a standard practice when working with older copper flex lines going into an appliance, to bring the installation up to code you must have the experience via Patrice or knowledge from continuing education, you could end up with a fire from a direct result of working with that older copper. i work with several insurance companies on various types of claims. I don’t want to write a book here but I will give an example. Home owner called around to get estimates on replacing a 40 gal natural gas water heater, the licensed plumbers she called all told her she needed a permit and that affected the final cost of the installation for various reasons, she a one point decided that she was not going to pay that much money for a water heater, so she turned to a ads new paper that has advertising for various home handyman service, she called and got additional estimates when she found the price she wanted she had the work done 1 by an unlicensed person and 2 an inexperienced person 3 month later a fire, I can’t go into the specific details because the claim is in litigation, I can tell you that the fire came from the installation of the water heater, the insurance is refusing to pay because the home owner used comparable negligence in using an unlicensed contractor with direct knowledge that she needed a permit work must be done by a licensed contractor, all just to save $300.00 dollars. By luck no one was hurt but someone could have died. So gas work no matter how small let a licensed professional perform the work.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

ben's plumbing said:


> I would get rid of all the copper piping to dryer.....I would install either gas tite or iron pipe to dryer area...drop pipe down the wall install valve about 1 foot above back of dryer...then install stainless steel flex connector...should meet code....and that is the right way,,Ben


I second that.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## mspmatt (Dec 28, 2011)

Thanks for everyone's input.

In the end, I kept the soft copper line in place and added 48" flexible gas line to the dryer. Here in Minnesota, soft copper is extremely common, although I will likely convert to black pipe if I ever finish the basement.

After cutting, deburring and flaring the copper pipe end, I added a new gas shutoff valve behind the dryer and within easy reach about 3' from the floor. I used a Brasscraft Safety+Plus advantage kit, which has a 48" line and an excess flow safety valve. I was able to screw the flexible line directly into the existing elbow on the back of the dryer.

I triple checked every single connection with a liberal amount of gas leak detection fluid and everything is sealed tight. Even checked all the other existing gas fittings/connections throughout the basement.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Nice try Ben I was with you. That's all we can do is try.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

No Trap ?


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

I assume there is a clamp somewhere holding that copper steady?


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