# Tips for my floating deck



## DIYguy2000 (Nov 4, 2009)

Hey Everyone,

I'm going to begin building my deck in a few weeks. There are two decks, upper is 4' x 8', which steps down 3 steps to the lower deck which is 12' x 16'. I will be using deck blocks.

The upper deck will have joists resting on the beams, while the lower deck will have joist hangers between beams.

When making my doubled up 2x8' beams, I've seen people place plywood spacers between for water drainage.
1. Is this necessary?
2. Can I attach the beams using 16d galvanized nails? or should I use carriage bolts? (how many/spacing?)

For the outer joist on the lower deck, do they make 'inverted' joist hangers with the nails on the inside of the hanger? Or should I place the outer joist against the outside of the beam end?
3. How do I attach the outer joist to the end of the beam? can I face nail it?

4. How far down should I dig the holes for the deck blocks to place 1/2" stone, then stone dust beneath the deck block?


I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get building. Thanks.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The construction methodology you mention is not one I would do in Canada. How much movement will you get from a deck sitting on the surface of Canadian soil in the Winter?
You would never use plywood spacers on a deck. They would delaminate and rot.
Look into building the deck as per Canadian building code.
Ron


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Its likely that you will require a building permit as anything over 108 sq.ft. and 24" high, requires one in Ontario.
The building department won't allow you build it on deck blocks.
For my deck, I had to put in footings down 48" then 8" concrete piers to the ground level.

Here's a link to Ottawa's site! http://www.ottawa.ca/residents/building_code/homeowner_guide/residential_checklist/sundeck_en.html


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## DIYguy2000 (Nov 4, 2009)

I don't live within the City of Ottawa, and my local building inspector approved the use of deck blocks and issued a building permit a couple weeks ago. I'm aware of the risks (and consequences) of frost heave.

To add further to my questions...

5. One side of the deck will be up against an existing wooden fence that is on a slight angle (property line is not perpendicular to the house). At the house, the deck will be right at property line, but at the other end of the deck, there will be a 8" gap between the fence and deck. I know I don't 'need' a railing because of the height of the deck, but I also don't want any accidents at this location by someone slipping into the gap. With my beams running parallel to the house, and joists running perpendicular, can I run the outer joist at the angle of the fence (about 4-degrees) by facenailing the outer joist to the beams? (I discovered the fence was angled after my building permit, but I don't think it would be an issue).


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

As you are using deck blocks rather than piers, I would assume that the decks will be free standing, rather than using a ledger board at the house end of the joists.
Using a ledger board would hold the deck in position at one end, while the outer edge would be going up and down with the seasons.
If one end is going to float, it would be best if it all floated in unison.
For the 4X8 upper deck, I would assume that the fence isn't a factor. It would be the lower deck that is near the fence.
The proximity of the deck to the property line surprises me, as a 24" set back is required where I live. Is your inspector aware that the property line is this close?

For the lower deck, you plan to hang the joists onto the beams. (which run parallel to the house) Have you considered running the beams perpendicular to the house and the joists parallel to the house? 
The outer joist (rim joist) would be skewed to parallel the fence.
The floor decking could then be laid in such a manner that the 8" gap would be closed.

By the way, I visit your neck of the woods fairly often. My son lives near Kempville.


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## DIYguy2000 (Nov 4, 2009)

Your assumption is right, it will be completely floating, no ledger board. It is a townhouse, and local zoning removes side-yard setbacks for property lines that are based on a common wall (hence, townhouses, or duplexes).

I attached my beam/joist plan when I assumed the fence was straight. The red line is the approximate location of the fence.

I don't follow your idea of running the beams perpendicular to the house as then my beam would need to be skewed.. maybe the attached picture will help clear up a bit?

My idea (and maybe yours too?) was to run the outer rim joist parallel the the fence. I drew the outer rim joist on the drawing next to the fence. I would still ensure my 12" oc joist spacing between the 'widest' part between joists.

I'd trim the deck board parallel to the fence (and outer rim joist) after they're attached.


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

I see! I had visualized that the fence ran along the the long side of the deck, rather than at the end.
So you could install the rim joist at the end, skewed to parallel the fence and you would be fine!


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Make sure of the property line
Many people build a fence 12" off the property line
So if you build up to the fence you may be building on neighbors property


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

usually the deck permit guy is not the same person that ensures set-back rules. call your building office and ask for zoning department. my setback from the side yard is 13'. it is 13' to my DOOR nevermind a deck... so not sure what's going on here... but anyway...

for a floating deck you are going to want to install hurricane ties between joists and beams. this will make the sway all but dissipear and also add strength to the serious frost heave you will have. 

Knucklez


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

oh, as for 1/2" TREATED plywood spacers... this is what my pro books recommended. the idea is to add a space so that water does not get trapped as it would for sure if you have the 2x8 put right together.. but nothing a bead of caulk can't fix. 

the spacers are cut to be shaped like a house, with the points pointing UP the water will run off it. 

Knucklez


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## DIYguy2000 (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks for the tips.

ScubaDave, I know the fence is close to the PL, but I will setup my string line before I do anything.

Knucklez, In my zoning, side yard setback is 4', however, there is no sideyard setback if the property line is based on a common wall. That applies to townhouses, which is where I fit in. So I have no side-yard setback, only rear yard. The planning department looked at the site plan and asked me to shorten the deck by a foot since I was encroaching into the rear yard setback.

Hurricane ties and my supplies are sitting in my garage, lumber coming tomorrow. I'm going over-kill on my deck blocks, fasteners, etc to do what you said "add strength to the serious frost heave".

Thanks everyone


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

sounds like you're on your way then.

the only other problem - and this is probabloy more ME as the problem than the floating deck - was trying to keep the deck built square. with house tied ledger obviously the one side is fixed and sets an unmoving reference. floating decks have 4 sides that move.. 

i recommend getting some 1x3 and making a gigantic square. litterally, one side is 3' long, the other is 4' and the hypotenous is 5'. trust me, it will help.

Knucklez


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Don't use ply spacers (as mentioned), cover the built beam top with sticky asphalt window wrap paper, and use deep footings with gravel against frost heave: http://books.google.com/books?id=1g...=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3#PPA31,M1


Be safe, Gary


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

oh, good idea with the ashfalt paper. what if you wrapped the spacers instead? getting the best of both worlds.

ps. i think that book you linked is also the book that talked about the spacers 

Knucklez


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