# GE Wall Oven issue



## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

The oven is Model #J D14Y1DC, ser# EYD 94185.

The issue is that everything I baked gets burned black on the bottom before the top is near done. It doesn't matter which rack level I use. I'm assuming that the temperature sensor isn't working properly so the element isn't cycling to maintain a set temperature. Any suggestions on how to fix? Are parts still available? Thanks in advance for any help


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Reckless73 said:


> The issue is that everything I baked gets burned black on the bottom before the top is near done.


The top element is on at 1/4th power, 120v vs 240v, during bake. 
I'd say in your case it's burned out or the connector block is bad. 
Check the element with an ohmmeter and replace the connector block. The cold resistance of a 1kw element should read about 58 ohms, minus 10%, but if it doesn't read zero or infinity it's probably good.


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

Top element does nothing during bake. If it's supposed to be 1/4 power during bake then it's not doing that. Bottom element stays on all the time during bake. Top element works fine for broil. So, element is not burned out. Shouldn't bottom element cycle on & off to maintain set temperature? What controls that?


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Shouldn't bottom element cycle on & off to maintain set temperature? Thats my thinking. Temp control and sensor should cycle it off when it reaches set temp.

I did know the broil element worked on 1/4 power. !/4 of what?


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I don't remember ever getting anything less than 220 to both elements, but it has been a while. 

Thjis may be way off, but I would remove the bake element and check to see if it is shorted. Check with the ohm meter from the inside element to the outside cover. Should be no reading.
Maybe check the door seal too.
See if the sensing tube is cruded over.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Reckless73 said:


> Bottom element stays on all the time during bake.
> Top element works fine for broil. So, element is not burned out. Shouldn't bottom element cycle on & off to maintain set temperature? What controls that?


Can you post a schematic?
If the top element works sometimes I'd say the bake/broil switch has bad bake contacts.
At least one element should cycle to keep the setpoint temperature.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I think either element will cycle within 20 or 30 degrees of the set temp. Bake cycles when it is on and broil will cycle when it is on.

Rotary controls or pushbutton?


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Also make sure the sensor/capillary tube is not touching the oven wall.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

The broil element is used on some stoves when set to bake. I did not know that, but I just read it some site while trying to check the age on this oven. There are 12 letters used. They are used repeatedly for like 10 or 12 year intervals. The first letter in the serial # for a GE signifies the month, the second letter is the year. I could not find the letter Y at all for a GE.

Probably have a bad switch if the sensing tube is not laying against the walls or floor. According to the type, you *might* be able to calibrate it.

Btw, one site told me the serial # should have 9 characters. Another only showed 8. Confusing.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

that's a 1964 oven. it does turn the broil unit on at 1/2 vac[gets hot stays dark]. if the bake unit is staying on past the thermostat setting it's more than likely it's the therm'. still avail $200ish.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Jacques said:


> that's a 1964 oven. it does turn the broil unit on at 1/2 vac[gets hot stays dark]. if the bake unit is staying on past the thermostat setting it's more than likely it's the therm'. still avail $200ish.


That makes sense. My online date source did not go back past the...70"s, I think.

Is that a coppertone oven? I used to could sort of date an appliance by the colors popular at the time. Coppertone, avacado green, harvest gold, etc..

Sounds like time to update with a new oven, unless you can find a used control and want to take a chance on something else going out tomorrow.


Of course, infinite switches are not usually very expensive, but oven controls can be a different story.


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

Yoyizit said:


> Can you post a schematic?
> If the top element works sometimes I'd say the bake/broil switch has bad bake contacts.
> At least one element should cycle to keep the setpoint temperature.


No, I can't post a schematic. It was here when I bought the house 3 years ago & I have no documentation.



boman47k said:


> I think either element will cycle within 20 or 30 degrees of the set temp. Bake cycles when it is on and broil will cycle when it is on.
> 
> Rotary controls or pushbutton?


Rotary


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

Jacques said:


> that's a 1964 oven. it does turn the broil unit on at 1/2 vac[gets hot stays dark]. if the bake unit is staying on past the thermostat setting it's more than likely it's the therm'. still avail $200ish.


1964 sounds right. That's when the house was built, so it's probably the original. If the thermostat is $200ish, then it's pointless since a new 24" is about $600. By the way, a 24" is nearly a pointless oven anyhow. I also could use a new cooktop, which is a 36" 4 burner electric in stainless. I'm thinking that given the cost of an oven & a cooktop it might be better to run a gas line there, cut the cabinet out & install a 30" gas stove. I want to do a new counter top eventually... in the meantime I can cut the counter & put a butcher block next to the stove.

Oh & Jacques, Go Flyers!!! (I don't really watch hockey) Best of luck to the Phillies!!! (don't follow that much either) Fly Eagles Fly!!!!! (now THAT I'm passionate about!!) Grew up in Wilm., DE & lived in & around Philly for years.


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

boman47k said:


> That makes sense. My online date source did not go back past the...70"s, I think.
> 
> Is that a coppertone oven? I used to could sort of date an appliance by the colors popular at the time. Coppertone, avacado green, harvest gold, etc..
> 
> ...




Yes, it is coppertone (brown) & I'm changing appliances to black (just installed new dishwasher) & was going to paint the oven door black. If therm is $200ish & who knows what getting the door painted will cost, then, with a new cooktop included, it makes even more sense to go with a gas stove. I mean, $600 minimum for a 24" oven, about $800 for a 36" electric cooktop... I'm already at $1400, I can run the gas line, cut the cabinet & by a nice 30" gas stove (with a much larger oven than the 24") for maybe $600. I think that's the way to go.

Thanks very much Boman47k, Yoyizit & Jacques for your help & advice. I've wanted to do the gas stove thing for 3 years, but couldn't justify it. But with your consensus that I should probably replace the oven, that's all the motivation I need.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Just for the heck of it, why don't you take the knob off the heat control and try to recalibrate? If it is the type that you can do this to.


Naa, replace it. It has done its duty.


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

boman47k said:


> Just for the heck of it, why don't you take the knob off the heat control and try to recalibrate? If it is the type that you can do this to.
> 
> 
> Naa, replace it. It has done its duty.


ROTFLMAO!!!!! First, I haven't the foggiest idea how to recalibrate the heat control. Second, I have no idea if it can be done. Third, you're right 46 years of service is long enough. It has earned its retirement.

I'm going with the gas stove & turning the hole where the wall oven is into a criss-cross wine rack... or take the doors from the cabinet I remove for the stove & turn the hole into another cabinet.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

Reckless, yeah it's an exciting time with our sports teams.....on your kitchen remodel; if you guys cook and have the room--buy a Ge double wall oven 30" electric WITH convection. nice oven. go with 36" gas cooktop, no special brand, just buy features[make sure has good grates and buy one that has the highest btu hi-speed burner[otherwise you'll wait forever to boil water for pasta]


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

Jacques said:


> on your kitchen remodel; if you guys cook and have the room--buy a Ge double wall oven 30" electric WITH convection. nice oven. go with 36" gas cooktop, no special brand, just buy features[make sure has good grates and buy one that has the highest btu hi-speed burner[otherwise you'll wait forever to boil water for pasta]


Thanks for the tips Jacques. As for "you guys," I live alone. I'll probably have to sell the house as soon as the market comes back since I haven't worked in nearly 3 years. Economy here SUCKS!!! So, all I'm doing is the minimum that I'd want if I stay while improving my chances for a sale if I should have to sell.

The 24" oven is there because that's all there's room for without redoing all the cabinets. As is, I'll have to remove a cabinet for a free standing gas stove. But I think it will be cheaper (and I'm all about cheap all things considered) to pull the cabinet, run a gas line & install a free standing stove than it will be to replace the wall oven & the cooktop. Anyhow, that's the only way I'll get a larger oven without tearing out everything. Thanks again.

Philip


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## Eldemila (Mar 17, 2010)

Reckless73 said:


> The oven is Model #J D14Y1DC, ser# EYD 94185.
> 
> The issue is that everything I baked gets burned black on the bottom before the top is near done. It doesn't matter which rack level I use. I'm assuming that the temperature sensor isn't working properly so the element isn't cycling to maintain a set temperature. Any suggestions on how to fix? Are parts still available? Thanks in advance for any help


I know this is an old thread, but found it when I was doing a search on the model # of the oven in a home we recently bought which is the same exact model as the one mentioned. 

Service dept ordered a replacement sensor package - wish they would just replace the darn thing! Hoping it doesn't work out:whistling2:

My question was more for wondering what you finally did with your kitchen cabinets, countertops and what you may have finally chosen for your oven. I have the original cabinets as well and they are solid and sound. Hate to get rid of them if I can find a way to utilize them and make them look good and be happy with the outcome. Wondering if you installed a DW, we there isn't one here,

Hoping you'll see this, and if so, possibly any pictures?


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## Reckless73 (Jan 23, 2009)

*GE wall oven issue*



Eldemila said:


> I know this is an old thread, but found it when I was doing a search on the model # of the oven in a home we recently bought which is the same exact model as the one mentioned.
> 
> Service dept ordered a replacement sensor package - wish they would just replace the darn thing! Hoping it doesn't work out:whistling2:
> 
> ...


I decided to not spend the money on repair of such an old oven. I removed it & was going to replace with a new wall oven, but not a single new one would fit the cut-out, nor was there room to heighten it enough.

I removed the electric cook-top, cut the counter-top & removed the 36" cabinet below it, ran a gas line in (furnace, hot water & clothes dryer were already gas) & installed a free standing gas stove. The cabinet opening where the wall oven was I converted to a microwave cubby with a shelf above for a wine rack & cook books.

The photos don't show the wall oven or cook-top or 36" cabinet in place, only after removal. 1st photo is old oven & cook-top, 2nd is with all removed & 3rd is with stove & exhaust hood installed (was a microwave above cook-top). I hadn't yet installed the shelf above the microwave either. But that's in now.

The next step is to tile above the stove & install a granite counter-top.

I did install a dishwasher last spring, but there was already a place for it so no cabinet removal was necessary.


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