# Need Help! Converted Garage Exposed Rafters Insulation Question



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

2X2 nailers ran against the roof deck, then Styrofoam insulation, and paneling cut to fit between the beams.

This gives insulation, and leaves exposed beam look.

Might use a foil backed insulation, to radiate the heat back onto the roof, but this can cause asphalt shingles to melt. 


ED


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## Brooke2287 (Jul 7, 2016)

thank you for the helpful reply...would this make it up to "code" or a fire safety issue...so in the florida heat would you say the styrofoam is the best insulation or would the heat basically be trapped between the styrofoam and the roof? sorry this is the first time for me and apologize for asking silly questions


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Since the space is already converted to living space, this should not change the code compliance.

Heat is not trapped anywhere, the insulation just slows it's movement into the building, and redirects it back out.

What insulation is normally used there?

There are no silly questions, except the one not asked. 


ED


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Two code issues. 
1. Meeting the minimum insulation levels, link below for 09 codes. Check local authority to see what generation of codes they are using.
2. If you use a rigid foam for insulation it usually needs to be covered with a thermal barrier. Again, local codes rule so check there.
https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/?state=Florida

Another option that doesn't fall under the low cost constraint, is to replace the shingles and add a thick layer of rigid insulation on top of your roof deck. That would leave what you see as is.

Bud


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## Brooke2287 (Jul 7, 2016)

Thank you again guys for the responses. Do you have any other suggestions to help with the heat. There is a vent in the room as you can maybe see in one of the pics and we put a fan up to it facing out in hopes of pulling some of the heat out of the room that way. Other than installing a HVAC unit or window unit is there anything else you can think of that might help? Thanks again.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

-----------Welcome to the forums!--------------------

To meet minimum code; rafter ties every 4'oc (not existing collar ties) required to keep the walls from spreading. Rafters covered with drywall (15minute fire rating) to meet code or 2x10 (without drywall), not your 2x8. Gable end bracing as you are in a high-wind area; https://c.ymcdn.com/sites/www.nibs.org/resource/resmgr/BSSC/FEMA232_Chapter6final.pdf

With a gable end vent (and outside RH) exposed to living space, why did you remove the rafter ties/ceiling joists? Or does the Building Dept. know?... it appears you are living in a fire trap/weak structure without code required walls or ceiling.

Gary


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## Brooke2287 (Jul 7, 2016)

So do you guys think just enclosing the ceiling would be a better option? is that a huge expense and a big undertaking?


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