# Painting a wood door



## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

diylady said:


> ... why so many primers??


Because there are so many different things to paint!
Ask any professional painter what the best primer is and they'll ask "What are you priming, and why?"

So...What are you priming?
Is that bare wood? Stained wood? Stained and Poly'd (shiny)? Previously painted?


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## diylady (Mar 7, 2007)

The door is stained and I think?? poly"d.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Hmmm....lightly sand, wipe off the dust, prime with a quality oil-based primer, then two coats quality latex (I'd recommend a waterborne enamel)

If it's real dark stain, or in iffy condition, I'd prime with a pigmented shellac
But that stuff is pretty stinky, and should only be used if needed


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## shapeshifter (Jan 10, 2007)

And don't do like I did and try to prime and paint it without laying the door completely flat. :furious: 

slick, isn't there a particular type of roller to use on flat surfaces with oil-based primer? :thumbsup:


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## Paintguru (Apr 19, 2007)

shapeshifter said:


> And don't do like I did and try to prime and paint it without laying the door completely flat. :furious:
> 
> slick, isn't there a particular type of roller to use on flat surfaces with oil-based primer? :thumbsup:


Normally it is recommended to use a 3/16" nap roller to eliminate any stipple in the finish. 

Also, don't be afraid to use a waterborne primer. I would recommend a block-out primer to make sure that the stain does not bleed through the primer and finish coat.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

I wouldn't use a roller on a 6 panel door
I'd recommend all brush work

Aside from the fact that all rollers leave to much stipple for me (for trim and doors and such, with a six-panel, you'll need to use a brush for the panel edges and bumps no matter what
No sense in wasting the time and money on wetting a roller sleeve for 4 minutes of work, that'll have to be brushed out to not leave stipple anyway

I also wouldn't recommend a water-based primer when painting a stained and/or maybe poly'd door


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## Paintguru (Apr 19, 2007)

slickshift said:


> I wouldn't use a roller on a 6 panel door
> I'd recommend all brush work
> 
> Aside from the fact that all rollers leave to much stipple for me (for trim and doors and such, with a six-panel, you'll need to use a brush for the panel edges and bumps no matter what
> ...


We sell waterborne block-out primer daily to customers repainting kitchen cabinets and doors. Of course, we are selling a premium $35 dollar a gallon product, we would never recommend a regular wall primer for these kinds of projects.


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

I am also getting ready to prime some bedroom doors, the oldschool natural wood-like finish you see in home built in the late 70s-early 80s.

I am painting them white... I have lightly sanded them down using a black & Decker detail palm sander and now I'm ready to prime. I will be using a quality brush but wondering if my primer is ok:

Sold at Kent building supplies under the name "Prime Time"

Super latex undercoater 100% acrylic Paint - stain blocking primer

-Undercoater before applying the topcoat
-Prepares and seals the surface
-Super Adherent
-Non-Splattering, easy application
-Minimal Odour
-Prevents wood Tannin stains.

Materials:
Painted or new wood, bare steel, siding, masonry, concrete, wall board, plaster ect...

Surfaces:
Shingle roofing, walls, doors, windows and previosly painted surfaces, ceilings, woodwork, ect...

It says to only apply one coat, does it matter?


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