# Vinyl Siding, Water Table & Finishing Options



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I prefer option 1. 

Be sure that your drainage plain details are correct here as you don't want water backing up on that PVC and draining toward the home. 

I am guessing you are going to go with starter there instead of J-channel and that was just for the mock up?


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Ditto what WoW said, I'm not clear on how the water table will shed water that runs down the siding, unless perhaps you cut a rabbet or bevel on the top of it that we can't see.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

This shows a solid cladding but the principles are the same.


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## cloves (Aug 2, 2009)

Thanks for the responses everyone.

I am installing over a rain screen. Originally was going to put z flashing (similar to drawing) at the bottom, which would divert the water to watertable pvc. But now I am thinking since I have a rain screen maybe I shouldn't worry about it. The z-flashing would be visible up close.

Window you made a good point. I was thinking of just using j-channel similar to a wall that is sided to the bottom. But maybe I should use starter strip. 

If I use starter strip wouldn't I have a small gap between the water table board and the bottom of the siding?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

You can make the Z-bar flashing short on the outside leg so that it just terminates on top of the PVC, but having one is recommended there. 

Rainscreen wall is a great addition and will make the wall bascially bulletproof when it comes to leaks assuming it is done correctly. You still want all your primary drainage plane details to be spot on as well.


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## cloves (Aug 2, 2009)

I could make the z flash sort, true.

Any comment on whether using starter strip is going to cause me to have to leave a space at the bottom between PVC waterboard and the siding panel? That is the only reason I thought about using j-channel at that point.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

cloves said:


> I could make the z flash sort, true.
> 
> Any comment on whether using starter strip is going to cause me to have to leave a space at the bottom between PVC waterboard and the siding panel? That is the only reason I thought about using j-channel at that point.


You definitely want the flashing on top of the board with the up leg behind the house wrap. The siding should be held up 1/4" off the flashing so that any water that gets behind the siding can easily escape.


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## cloves (Aug 2, 2009)

I should have probably included my rain screen and wall info. So I have 1 1/2 inches of EPS foam, then my tyvek then my 3/4 x 3" plywood strips. Plywood below is taped at all seams as is the eps, and the tyvek. I wouldn't be able to tie in the flashing to the tyvek. Any water that makes it past the siding will get picked up by the rain screen.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

That last pic must not be your wall because it sure looks like there's flashing at the bottom of those plywood strips. 

If you already have Tyvek and an 1-1/2" of foam on the wall than anything additional is not needed imo with vinyl. 

If you were to add the strips then that material should be treated which is not what I'm seeing in that pic.


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## cloves (Aug 2, 2009)

*Re: Vinyl Siding, Water Table &amp; Finishing Options*

Kwik that is my wall. EPS, tyvek on top, and plywood strips as furring. Vinyl siding will go on top of the furring strips. This rain screen design is straight of remote wall manual.

At the bottom I have a bug screen and roof venting material (pic was right before I installed it). When water heads down the tyvek, it will exit out the roofing mesh on to z-flashing. Hard to see.

So that is why I am thinking I wouldn't need z flashing behind the siding connected to the pvc trim since I have the rain screen for the little amount of water that will infiltrate.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

While the lack of a Z-bar will clean up the look, it is probably still recommended depending on rainfall in that area. Just keeps the water out of the rainscreen and flowing down the exterior. 

That being said, with that amount of detailing in the wall, I think you could rip a bevel into that PVC and get a good result out of it. 

Couple a bevel with a small Z-bar that doesn't protrude beyond the depth of the starter and you are that much better off.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Sorry but didn't study the discussion so far. 
One thing I try to point out all the time is how leaky vinyl siding is. So have others but the point seems to be mostly ignored.
Rain does not fall gently and straight down. Many times, it is wind driven and always follows the contour, edges of siding, sideways. That means your corner trim may see a lot of rain draining down that corner. Corner supports a lot of the house.
Do not put your siding on to look pretty.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

I omit the J-channel and just use a starter strip. I prefer the corner post running longer than the water table.


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## cloves (Aug 2, 2009)

Absolutely aware that water does get behind siding. Rainscreen should be able to handle anything that passes on by.

Dave I'm almost starting to lean in this direction because the water table trim is smooth PVC and the corner is textured. So visually I think it's going to make more sense to have that break on the corners and leave the smooth in the middle



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