# Best way to cut into a stucco and wire exterior wall?



## allenwench

I live in Phoenix and my house has a stucco and wire mesh finish. I"m installing a AC Unit in my garage wall. Any advice on how to go about cutting the hole? I have a 7' grinder and cutoff wheels and a sawzall.


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## vsheetz

Here's how I cut the opening in my garage to install a terminal package HVAC unit in the stucco wall. 


I framed up the opening on the inside
Drilled a 1/4" or so hole through to the outside in each corner of the framed area
Went outside and drew lines from the holes so I knew where to cut
Did the actual cut with a angle grinder with diamond wheel, the cut was easy and came out pretty neat - be sure to wear eye protection!
Installed the metal sleeve for the terminal package HVAC unit, securing it to the framing
Put expanding foam into the small space around the metal sleeve
Put a bit of stucco patch around the metal sleeve


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## Chemist1961

Exactly that, grinder with diamond ceramic cutting wheel worked well for me too. Wear a mask as well


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## allenwench

*Thanks for the response*

I ended up cutting it with metal cutoff wheels since I already had a bunch in stock. It took a few, but I got it done. I will pickup a diamond blade for the next time I need it. Thanks again all


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## kronic24601

Not that I'm trying to Necro this thread, I could always post a new one, but it's related. I currently have a Skill Saw and 7" Diamond Blade. It's not going to be as High-Speed as a Grinder/diamond blade combo, but it will cut deeper (obviously). My main question is will this work? Has anyone tried it? I'm trying to not have to buy new stuff if I can help it, but not at the risk of it not working.

Thanks!


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## SteelToes

*Diamond Blade*



kronic24601 said:


> Not that I'm trying to Necro this thread, I could always post a new one, but it's related. I currently have a Skill Saw and 7" Diamond Blade. It's not going to be as High-Speed as a Grinder/diamond blade combo, but it will cut deeper (obviously). My main question is will this work? Has anyone tried it? I'm trying to not have to buy new stuff if I can help it, but not at the risk of it not working.
> 
> Thanks!


 Read what’s on the blade and make sure it is rated to be used with circular saws also compare the max. RPM on the diamond blade to the max RPM on the saw.
Before cutting adjust the cutting depth guide on the saw and watch for the electrical, phone and gas connections.
*In addition always wear adequate safety protection.
*


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## Gary in WA

"It's not going to be as High-Speed as a Grinder/diamond blade combo, but it will cut deeper (obviously)." ----- it will work, though slower as the 7" diamond blades are rated at 8730 rpm, but the saws are around 4400- 6200 rpm, with the 7" angle grinder at 8500 rpm, tile saws similar and even slower at 3400 rpm. So the blades are rated max. for the much faster A. grinders. 

"Read what’s on the blade and make sure it is rated to be used with circular saws also compare the max. RPM on the diamond blade to the max RPM on the saw." ----- Steel toes, aren't you from H.D., you should know this....... 

Gary


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## SteelToes

grinders. 

"Read what’s on the blade and make sure it is rated to be used with circular saws also compare the max. RPM on the diamond blade to the max RPM on the saw." ----- Steel toes, aren't you from H.D., you should know this....... 

Gary[/quote]


Gary, he could easily be talking about continius rim diamond blades that have lower RPM's ..

AGAIN
Please read what's on the blade and compare to your saw.
George


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## SteelToes

*Dry Cutting Don'ts*

*Dry Cutting Don’ts*
1. Don’t dry cut except with a blade specifically designed for dry
cutting by the manufacturer. \
2. Don’t force blade onto machine blade shaft, alter the size of
the mounting hole, or tighten mounting nut excessively. Use of
bushing to reduce arbor hole size is not recommended for
diamond blades used on high-speed saws.
3. Don’t exceed the maximum operating speed established for
the blade.
4. Don’t operate a saw without proper safety guards in place.
NEVER OPERATE ANY SAW, WET OR DRY, WITHOUT A
BLADE GUARD!
5. Don’t stand in direct line with dry diamond or abrasive blades
during start-up or operation.
6. Don’t cut or grind with the sides of a diamond blade.
7. Don’t force the blade into the material; allow the blade to cut
at its own speed. Forcing the blade may cause over heating or
blade damage.
8. Don’t make long continuous cuts with a dry blade. Allow the
blade to cool by turning in air every 10 to 15 seconds. The
harder the material being cut the longer the cooling periods
should be.
9. Don’t use the blade to cut material other than that specified by
the manufacturer.
10. Don’t use the blade on a type of saw other than that specified
by the manufacturer.
11. Don’t allow the blade to deflect in the cut.
12. Don’t attempt to cut curves or radii.


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## kronic24601

Thanks guys. It's a 8400 RPM max Segmented Blade. I'm not sure what the Max RPM on the skill saw I have is ... I'll have to check that. However, I have already used this combo to cut through a fair amount of brick & concrete. Wonder when they start to dull to the point of losing effectiveness.

Oh ... and ya, there isn't anything to cut into on the other-side, but thanks for the heads up.


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## Gary in WA

You should be fine with that blade. The serrated cut better than the continuous, I've found. Unless it says wet cut only on the blade all the rest will take a hand-held power saw because it's slower than an angle grinder, as mentioned. Try not to cut the paper underneath, if you do, add some more after the metal flashing on top. Caulk only the sides and bottom, use backer rod before caulking. Cut your flashing ends like on pp.#8: http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

Gary


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## kronic24601

Gary,

thanks for the PDF, I honestly didn't think about what materials needed to be installed in the opening. I figured I'd just use the included AC sleeve sitting on ... well ... the wood I guess ... now that I think about it, that does sound like a bad idea.

Looks like I'm in for a trip to HD to wander the isles...


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## stadry

*# 13 - do NOT get a segmented blade caught in your trouser leg,,, don't ask me how i know this, i just know ! for anyone who's not experienced w/diamond blades or conc/asphalt sawing, pay strict attn to the previous 12,,, i've been cutting for yrs but still get remindes now & then,,, being safe beforehand is MUCH easier than being stitched up or losing a limb/eye/life,,, losing a segment at 11,000rpm is like pulling the trigger on a .22 - painful in the least 

*


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## Homeshark

*The only thing I would add...*

The only thing that I would add is what not to do. DONT USE THE SAWZALL!!! I recently had an unfortunate experience using my sawzall to cut a hole for a cat door. The sawzall appeared to be doing a wonderful job until near the end of the cut. In retrospect, the reciprocating action of the blade must have created fishers in the stucco because all of the sudden the stucco exploded along the cut, leaving a jagged edge that now requires additional repair.


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## havalife

Depending on the age of the house most houses in Pheonix are 1 coat stucco so you will have about 1/4" stucco, brown coat and wire then about 3/4" foam over the paper. Like mentioned before start on the inside.


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## jaysen

Reserecting this thread once more ! Long live this thread! hahaha...

Anyway, I've read these good suggestions here but have a question for cutting a circular/radii cut?

I'm installing a exterior light on my garage and in order for the light to be centered its requiring me to place on the center of a stud. I'll be using a 1/2" pancake box for that area...

I was planning on using a sawzall but I guess from earlier post that is out of the question?


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