# DYI Project - Hardwood Flooring Install in Hall and Bedrooms



## Mudd (Dec 29, 2008)

There's a lot here to discuss. 

And the photos are really helpful.

Let me start by asking questions so I get a good grasp of where you're headed...

You wrote...

4) From what I have read it is recommended to start in the hallway and then move into the rooms. So I will remove the carpet in the hall, ensure the floor has no dips, squeaks or high points. I will determine the center working line chalk it and go from there. Good news is that the builder installed nosing on the top of the stairs and throughout the railings, that’s a lifesaver.

Are you fastening this to the subfloor with nails or staples? I don't currently sell Bruce so I don't have a sample to look at... can this floor be floated?

In one photo, the hall is at an angle to the room... Are you going to break with t-mouldings at doorways?


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## godmaster (Feb 18, 2009)

I plan on fastening the floor with staples. It's your standard 5/8 hardwood. 

I was hopint to avoid any t mouldings and do a continous run into the bedrooms from the hall. 

Another question I have is what is the estimated amount on nails or staples needed per sqft.


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## Mudd (Dec 29, 2008)

Here are some considerations...

Those staples go in at the tongue as you are probably aware. Loose splines can be used to switch directions if you start at the middle of things. Usually, starting at a wall line (on the longest straight away) is the most common.

One thing to watch out for is that running through doorways and making this thing continuous will mean running on diagonals into the room. Diagonals eat up a bit more wood than straight-lays.

Have you tested the staples and stapler on a small piece of your wood yet to see if they work on the wood you have chosen? We had a situation recently where my installer's stapler was basically blowing the tongue off because it was a bit thinner and more brittle (Brazilian Olive wood) than what he was used to dealing with. Had to order a special gun for it.

As far as quantity of fasteners, it kind of depends on whether or not you have long boards or "random lengths" which is the manufacturer's way of saying, "lots of little pieces."

Longer boards will use less staples than smaller ones.

Buy your fasteners at a big box store like Home Depot or Lowes, save the receipt, and return any unopened boxes when you're done.

On the order of things, you may have to install things out of the order you mention in #8.

If you're running into the rooms without a break, you can't always get to a doorway, and go past it, skipping the room for later.

Because the door in the pictures you posted sits at an angle, no matter which way you run the planks (I'm assuming you're going the long way down the hall), they're going to stagger at the doorway.

So, if you did the hall first, when you went to do the bedroom, the planks sticking into the room would sort of look like the skyline of Manhattan. Depending on the length of the planks you're dealing with, t isn't always possible to shove new planks in between two other ones... plus you can't nail it even if you managed it...

When you get to that doorway, you'll have to run into the room, at least a run the width of the doorway all the way to the opposite wall, then continue with the hall.

Put a diagram of the areas you are doing on here if you can.

You have a railing. The picture you have of the top of your steps shows a finished piece of wood. Does it continue from the wall under that bannister and along under the railing in one piece?


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## HardwoodGuy (Jun 7, 2008)

Wow, that is alot to answer. I'll offer a few tips.

The metal track can be removed and once the floor is installed it can be fastened to the new floor. There should be adjustments on the top of the doors to increase clearance.

Why cut the base with a jamb saw and use shoe at the same time? I have never done it. And when you reach those inside corners they have to be chiseled or cut with a fein Multimaster or somthing similar. Chiseling MDF is no fun. Most solid floors do not expand much except under extreme conditions (flood, very high humidity) but many insist on 3/4" expansion. 

As far as running the flooring into other rooms (straight), once you near the area at the jamb...boy this one is very hard to describe.

Ummm, take a few scrap pieces and slide t&g into the "last run" Make pencil marks at the tongue side on the subfloor or underlayment and remove the scraps. At this juncture grab a chalk line and extend your line into the room using the two reference points marked.

Here's a rough sketch. Black line is last row to that area. Brown are scrap pieces, blue is chalk line running into the new area.







ue


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## What have I done (May 28, 2006)

a sketch of the layout of all the rooms would be helpful. I agree to avoid t-mouldings in doorways if possible. It just gives a lot nicer finished look if the flooring flows from room to room. The angles at the top of the stair are confusing until we can see what the whole floorplan is. IF the banister runs parellel with the bedrooms back walls, I would start against the banister and work right into the rooms. A threahold stip with bullnose is installed [arallel with the top of the stairs and the flooring is mitered to it and ran straight down the hallway. Good luck. Room by room it shouldnt be to bad.


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## godmaster (Feb 18, 2009)

Ok So here is the floorplan. The red mark indicates the direction I will be installing the floors and will be continious through all the rooms. 










I have decided to remove the baseboards, it was much easier that I thought. They remained in great shape and I do plan to re-install them once the flooring is done. 

My only thing I will need to do is cut the casings. I bought a 10 dollar flush saw to do the job. Wood fits perfect under the door. 










I did stumple into a little suprise when I took the carpet up. It seems like the floors were a little uneven, I think this is the point where the joists switch direction. Looks like the Builder tried to do someting with a leveling compound, but after putting my 4ft level accorss it is still uneven. 

What is the best tool to use when evening out the floor at the plywood seams, planer od belt sander or orbital sander. ?


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## huango (Apr 26, 2009)

Hi, I'm sorry for posting here, but I didn't know how to contact MUDD directly.

"We had a situation recently where my installer's stapler was basically blowing the tongue off because it was a bit thinner and more brittle (Brazilian Olive wood) than what he was used to dealing with. Had to order a special gun for it."

Could you please tell me more about this special gun?
We're experiencing the same problem w/ our Patagonian Cherry. EVERY SINGLE hit results in a split of the tongue. We've tried 2 different flooring guns, different nails/staples, low/high psi, and light/hard hits and EVERY single hit = a split.

We're also DIY and have 2 bedrooms and an adjoining hallway to install this prefinished 3/8" patagonian cherry and we're going out of our minds.

REALLY appreciate your help,
Amanda


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

huango,
Click on Mudd's name at top left of his post and public profile, message, etc menu should pop up.


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## LookoutRanch (Apr 20, 2009)

One way to transition between rooms can be seen in this picture.

The hardwood in the top portion of the picture was installed approximately 45 years after the hardwood in the lower portion of the picture. This is a transition in the doorway between a hall and a bedroom.


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