# Basement windows replacement



## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

I'm planning to replace my basement windows. 
It measure 32 X 14 cement block to block.
Should I buy windows with mounting fin and have a frame. which mean the windows itself would be smaller.
or should I buy windows that measure aprx 32X14 without fins?

My windows looks like one from members here:


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

There is really no point in our replying if we can't see *your* window inside and out.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Buy the right sized window. It can be flashed and seal properly without the nailing flange.


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## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

here's my windows. Inside not available, too dark because sunny out.

also when I remove the old, will I need to remove that drain/pour off cement part?


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

Thanks for the pic... your windows are quite different from the ones you first pictured. 

A couple things might help clarify what you are after. What kind of window are you after? Fixed (non-operating) or operating... such as a slider or hopper? Thing is, if you want to open the window, you likely don't want it on a fin, because it would be moved way out to the exterior side of the wall in that case.

But if you just want a fixed window, your main goal is for it to be less drafty, or just let in some light, a fin is an option. You could caulk it to the outside of the block wall, and cover the fin with some trim that would be tapconned to the exterior wall.

I have installed many many basement windows... I always remove the steel frame you have pictured (Sawzall and grinder) and always remove the sloped cap on bottom. This gains you size and gets you back to the original masonry opening. 

If you want to get the most window, I will usually order it 1/4" narrower, and 1" shorter than the masonry opening. I sit the window on a 3/4" thick sill, to raise the window up... and then repour a sloped cap outside after the window is in. After it's cured, the window gets caulked in on all 4 sides.

If you go with a fin, (or flush fin) and install the window on the exterior of the wall, you don't need the sloped cap, because the fin flashes the bottom. So in that case your window can be 3/4 taller... subtract 1/4" each way.

And the amount your siding hangs down can affect your decision too.


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## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

thanks for the advice.
I just bought 3 32 X 14 slider at the local Menards(Midwest Lowes or home depot).
they don't carry any thing lower than 14 so I will have to cut off the fin/flange.
I will try to install onto the existing slope if I can otherwise i'll remove as you mentioned. It's going to be a tight fit I only have 1/8 or less to work with.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

You may find the the cap breaks up when you removeth


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

... the old sill. Be ready to replace the cap if needed. Also a grinder and masonry blade or cup wheel is sometimes handy to have.


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## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

Not sure what you mean but I'll wait until I break it down.

Looks like I will need the remove the old slope. see picture.


XSleeper said:


> You may find the the cap breaks up when you removeth


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## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

Ok, just did a prefitting after removing the aluminum frame. I shouldn't need to remove the slope. Good thing I didn't remove the top and bottom fin/flange. On top it actually goes through a split between 2 wood and the bottom actually could be mount to the old aluminum sill/slope.
Here's picture of top and side frame removed.


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

I use a hopper type window from Menards. It measures 15 1/4" or so by 32". I just cut off the nailing fins and center it in the opening, flush with the outside. Fill any spaces with fiberglass insulation, put some foam rope on the inside, and caulk the outside.

Make sure you follow the directions on the window and drill your weep holes properly.

I like it flush on the outside. If I finish the inside walls, I finish the inside sill then.


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## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

Flush to the outside looks nice but it would be too far from the inner wall for me.

My menards only has 14x32 16x32 18x32 and so on. This one actually works good for my 15X32 opening.

Can't wait to show you guys my neighbors windows by Pella Windows for over $1,000. Ugly as hell.

Here's how it looks, need finishing touch. Trims, shims and sealants.



cleveman said:


> I use a hopper type window from Menards. It measures 15 1/4" or so by 32". I just cut off the nailing fins and center it in the opening, flush with the outside. Fill any spaces with fiberglass insulation, put some foam rope on the inside, and caulk the outside.
> 
> Make sure you follow the directions on the window and drill your weep holes properly.
> 
> I like it flush on the outside. If I finish the inside walls, I finish the inside sill then.


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

Mine may be 16x32's and the actual dimension is 15 1/4" or so. Obviously they are sized to be placed in an opening for 4 concrete block.


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## nauttboy (Mar 20, 2013)

Are you sure it's not 15.75 rather than 15.25? because my 14x32 is actually 13.75?



cleveman said:


> Mine may be 16x32's and the actual dimension is 15 1/4" or so. Obviously they are sized to be placed in an opening for 4 concrete block.


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