# Tub spout not flush against surround wall...



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

I don't think that the end of the copper pipe is threaded. There could be a set screw underneath. Then cut the pipe.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Copper pipe can not be threaded.

You either have a threaded fitting soldered onto a copper pipe --- if this is the case, first measure how much gap you have, remove spout, unsolder fitting, cut pipe by measured amount, re-solder fitting. After you remove the spout, measure overall length from tub to end of thread. Double check after resoldering that it is shorter by exactly the measured amount.

Or, you have a slip on spout, which is hold onto the copper pipe with a set screw from underneath --- if this is the case, remove spout, cut half inch off pipe, re-install spout. Of course, if you find the set screw, first loosen it and see if you can push the spout closer to the tub, stranger things have happened.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

They come in different length, if that doesn't work solder a copper pipe in the fitting that fits in the wall and change the spout to one that just has a set screw and fits 1/2" copper pipe.
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.tub-spout-nipple.1000514412.html


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I can tell you how I do it, but unless your willing to buy a 1/2" NPT die, not likely to help.

I buy the shortest brass nipple that is long enough. They come in one inch increments. Assemble nipple and spot into place. Measure the gap, un-assemble, then cut the threads back the same distance with a die. I use a die set with holder and extended handles, but brass is soft and a simple die nut will work.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Yodaman said:


> I can tell you how I do it, but unless your willing to buy a 1/2" NPT die, not likely to help.
> 
> I buy the shortest brass nipple that is long enough. They come in one inch increments. Assemble nipple and spot into place. Measure the gap, un-assemble, then cut the threads back the same distance with a die. I use a die set with holder and extended handles, but brass is soft and a simple die nut will work.


 So he could maybe get away with just cutting the one he has if he cleans up the threads after.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Depends on whats in there now. Looks like it will take 3 turns on the die. If he has a copper assy, that might be asking too much. Probably better to cut it, add a coupling and re-solder


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Whew, soldering with a torch that close to an acrylic wall surround could get tricky for a DIY'er.

I wonder if this would work for the OP a 5/8 in. O.D. compression coupling ? I would try one on my tub spout's pipe to shorten it before I would a flame solder or attempting to use a threader.. JMO though.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need to remove the spout to figure out what was used to connect it and how it was done.
There's at least three different ways it could have been done.
#1, A solid pipe nipple most likely galv, steel which at some point will be an issue.
#2, Two copper adapters and a piece of copper pipe.
#3, An adapter and a piece of copper tubing with a slipped on spout.
Need to figure out how it was done first.
There's 0 need to solder anything close to the enclosure!


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## bassadict69 (Jul 21, 2011)

Thanks guys...I will play with it more later today and determine exactly what I have.


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## DR P (Dec 16, 2017)

or you could consider an escutcheon:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/America...tcheon-Polished-Chrome-907520-0020A/203670902

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-Chrome-Escutcheon/3515018

Peace


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## bassadict69 (Jul 21, 2011)

No set screws or anything that I see...

I have been unable to unscrew the spout...I am scared of breaking something loose inside the wall if I force it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

bassadict69 said:


> No set screws or anything that I see...
> 
> I have been unable to unscrew the spout...I am scared of breaking something loose inside the wall if I force it.


 Fee under it close the tub for a hole it might be a set screw that takes an allan wrench. Then you undo the screw just a little and pull it off.


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## DR P (Dec 16, 2017)

Since there is a gap now at tub wall
How ridged is spout or does it flex up/down & side to side
if it moves easily it might be on CPVC stub ???
(which is not good but fixed lots of them were done that way)

what is directly behind the other side of tub wall ?


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## bassadict69 (Jul 21, 2011)

It is pretty rigid, I can move it side to side very little.

On the other side of that wall is a counter and a very small cabinet.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

bassadict69 said:


> No set screws or anything that I see...
> 
> I have been unable to unscrew the spout...I am scared of breaking something loose inside the wall if I force it.



Good fear to have. It is hard for us tell from here how hard you are cranking on it, or where the breaking point might be. But if it doesn't feel like it is going to move, maybe better to just leave well enough alone and re-caulk. Worry about removal at the next tub/shower remodel. 

The main concern is to prevent water from running into the top half of the spout. A little opening on the bottom is ok, allows for drainage if water does get in there. Scrape out the old and recaulk with kitchen and bath silicone.


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## bassadict69 (Jul 21, 2011)

Hard to tell, but there is an opening under the spout but all I feel or see inside is the copper tubing...

I think I will just recaulk and let it be!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Usually you would find a set screw there, your might unscrew or it might unscrew from the fitting in the wall. That is if there is a fitting in the wall and not just a copper elbow. First step would be to remove the caulking anyway.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Hard to tell if that has caulking around the spout between the spout and the fiberglass. If it does you have to take a utility knife and cut all around the caulk to unscrew that spout . The caulk is stronger than hell. I would mess with it until I got it but there might be another way to make it look better cut the caulk if it is there and see if you can get a little flex behind the wall and try to push that fiber out a little to make it look better then put a board or shim behind it to hold it. I wouldn't put to much pressure on the fiber. I really don't care for the second recommendation just a thought. The Eustachian idea was good that was previously mentioned.


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