# Connecting PVC to Galv Pipe fitting for Drain



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

1 Cut Horizontal pipe and remove from reducing bushing
2 Install PVC male adaptor into reducer
3 Cut vertical pipe and remove tee andfixture arm
4 install PVC female adaptor on gal pipe coming out of floor (where you removed the tee
5 Hook back up with PVC with multiple fixture arms

Having said that: I would leave as is and tie the 2 sinks into a common trap and use what you have( just like a double bowl kitchen sink is hooked up)


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

I'm with rjniles, keep it as is with a single trap from a double bowl.

I hope those with more plumbing experience chime in here...but from what I can tell it looks like if you try to remove the reducing bushing, you'll tighten the 90* elbow. It looks to me like the starting point for removal would be the T where the trap empties. If you remove it...make certain the lower portion is supported before removing. In addition, I don't think your volume limiting factor is with the vent, rather the drain flow away from the T. So if anything needs to be increased for size, it would be from the T down. Again this is only an opinion.

Unless this sink has given you cause for concern in the past, I'd leave it as is. How many times would both sinks be used to full capacity at the same times anyway?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Cut out the tee and remove all pipe up to the reduced bushing and the bushing also.

Use a what we call a figure 5 fitting, plumbing will look like this when done.


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

*Thanks for the replies!*

Thanks for all the replies!
So this is what I did:
1. Cut the pipe at the horizontal bushing (no problem).
2. Removed the Bushings (This was brutal, took me over an hour with full force, this sucker was so tight...and I'm a pretty strong guy +200 lbs)

I did consider leaving as is and connect as a kitchen sink, but I was concerned about the 1 1/4 drain as it is not up to code for double sinks, and let me tell you, after removing the drain part, I'm happy I did...it was pretty full of rust and the inside diameter could not have been more than 3/4".

Anyway, now I'm struggling with removing the drain pipe where it connects at the bottom. It is so tight I haven't been able to get it loose yet.
I'm sprayed a ton of WD 40, but still no luck. Any advice for removing tight galvanized connections?
Also, the reducer bushing went from a 2" to 1 1/4" so I guess I need some sort of reducer bushing that goes from 2 to 1 1/2".

Thanks again!


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

sounds like your headed the right way...especially with the rust build up. What about the drain side? Not just the T but the actual pipe...is it an 1-1/4" as well? While your at it, I'd make sure it had the capacity as well given the rust in the vent.

As for removing the the fitting, WD40 isn't the best penetrating liquid...you might try PB Blaster or some of the other ones found in automotive store. If you have the space...which it looks like it might be kinda tight, take a sledge hammer and put it tight on on side of the fitting, the object is to keep it from moving away from the fitting as you or a helper strikes the opposite side with a standard hammer...don't kill it...just hit it firmly, repeatedly. Sometimes that's enough to start it to move. I'd be a bit concerned though that you may knock some of the rust loose if it's built up like you have seen in the vent.

Are you going back with pipe or PVC?


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

Rippyskippy,

I guess I was a bit unclear in my previous post.
The drain pipe was the part that was built up with quite a bit of rust. The vent was actually ok, but everything was 1 1/4, so probably not enough to handle two sinks at full capacity (even though I doubt that will be used often).

I will replace with PVC 1 1/2".

I will try the other oil type and bang with a hammer...
Any thoughts on using heat? I'm not sure I will have enough room because it connects underneath the subfloor and it is pretty tight.

If I can't get it loose I think I will have to cut a section out and use no-hub fittings.

Thanks again!


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

*Updated picture*

Here is an updated/ edited picture with how it looks now.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

Heat may work, and I've heard from the engine guys that if you get it hot, press a candle into the threaded area, something about the wax helps to lubricate the threads. I'm not much of a fan using that much heat in a home though...have water handy!

If your not too worried about trashing the pipe and are ready to replace it anyway, get your self a 2-3 foot cheater and really bear down on it. Pull and release, pull and release. Worse case is that the pipe breaks but your were going to cut it anyway. For more control, have a couple of pipe wrenches and pull them to each other...less chance of causing an issue below the floor.


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

Thanks!
Heading out to Lowe's right now to get some PB Blaster, and will try the cheaters.
I'm not too worried about breaking the pipe as it would be ok if I have to replace the part underneath. The good part about having to make the cut is that I will be able to tell how much rust is in this part too. If I get the fitting to unscrew I will not be able to tell very well about the rust inside the pipe.

I appreciate your advice!!!
Fred


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

Good luck...let us know how you get along!


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

What floor is this on? (first, second..)
Do you have access to the 1 1/4 drain as it goes down threw the floor?


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

This is on the 2nd floor (1st floor is a finished basement).

The drain line goes down underneath the subfloor and connects to a 1 1/2" or possibly 2" line that goes parallell to the floor and then connects to the big stack that you can see to the right in the picture.

I will have to cut a part of the subfloor to connect the vertical drain pipe regardless if I choose to cut the horizontal pipe or if I manage to get it off its connection and screw it in. I will have some access, but it is very tight.
I don't want to cut a hole in the ceiling in the basement as it will require alot of work to get that look nice again.


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

*Too tight...*

So, it didn't budge. I couldn't get enough room to unscrew the fitting, even after soaking it in PB Oil, and heating it up.
Oh well, I will cut it off and use no-hub couplings instead. No big deal, it should even be better because I will get rid of some more of the somewhat rusty pipe and replace with PVC.

My only concern is how I should run the bends for the PVC.
It is all 1 1/2" pipe and it currently bends 1/8 to the left, than 45 degrees and then another 45 degrees.

Would it be ok to just have a 90 degree bend instead?


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

froddan said:


> So, it didn't budge.


I guess that's why they quit using iron for waste pipe...:whistling2:




froddan said:


> ...to just have a 90 degree bend instead?


From the pictures, I don't see the 2 45* but that's ok. If it's in the vent portion you can use 1 90* vent street ell (top of page 19), if it's the waste portion and have the space, use a long turn sweep ell (bottom of page 19) if it won't fit use a standard one.


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

Thanks!

That is what I was planning on...using the smaller ell for the vent, and I got the longer sweeping ell for the drain.

Some people seem to highly promote a 2" line, but the previous was a 1 1/2" that had tons of rust inside of it, so I would think a new 1 1/2" with 2 cleanouts would do ok.

I just can't replace the entire section, and I can't imagine that it would be ok to have some parts 2" and then decrease to 1 1/2"


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## froddan (Jun 14, 2007)

Sorry about the confusion, but these 90 and 45* bends are underneath the subfloor and not visible in the picture.

It is the drain that comes from the tub-shower and then connects with this sink drain.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

sounds like you have a good handle on things...congrats!


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## Superace (Feb 28, 2010)

*Removing threaded galvanized pipe*

Which ever solution you chose, removing the threaded galvanized pipe should not be a problem. 

Cut the galvanized pipe within 3/4" from where the threads start. Using a chisel, cave in the pipe just above the fitting, then the end of the pipe will easily un-thread from fitting using channel locks (water pump pliars). Using this method will leave the threads of the fitting intact and surrounding pipe will not be broken, damaged or moved. 

btw, this is similar to removing a brass plug from cast iron hub (i.e. cleanout). Cut, drill or chisel out the inside of the brass plug, then cave in the plug just as it enters cat iron fitting.

I hope this helps.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Thread is 2.5 years old :huh:


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