# Cement board directly into studs



## gary.bruzzese (Sep 28, 2016)

Cement board directly screwed to studs. 

Don't forget to tape seems and waterproof. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

Like redguard?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gary.bruzzese (Sep 28, 2016)

Yes like redguard, hydroban, kerdi, aqua defense, etc. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gary.bruzzese (Sep 28, 2016)

Oh, be sure to use the proper screws, not drywall screws. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

I got 1 1/4 cement board screws 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Acceptable also is plastic on the studs and then cement board. Then thinset and tape on the seams. That OR redguard (at around 50 bucks a gallon), both work. Ron


----------



## gary.bruzzese (Sep 28, 2016)

That wouldn't be acceptable on my jobs. 

No disrespect, but we would never do it like that. 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

gary.bruzzese said:


> That wouldn't be acceptable on my jobs.
> 
> No disrespect, but we would never do it like that.
> 
> ...





Gary which aspect wouldn't be acceptable? I'm trying to do it right. Open to your ideas.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## gary.bruzzese (Sep 28, 2016)

jaketrades said:


> Gary which aspect wouldn't be acceptable? I'm trying to do it right. Open to your ideas.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Jake,

It's just not acceptable practice in my area. In glancing at my TCNA book (2009 edition), it looks like it may be an approved method. But I believe the best practice is to apply either a liquid membrane (like red guard), or a fabric (like Kerdi) over the cement board. Waterproofing between the cement board and tile protests everything. No worries about water deteriorating screws or board. Whatever membrane you put behind the cement board will have lots of punctures from the screws used to hang the board.

I assume you'll be getting all materials from a big box store. If that's the case...

Hang the cement board using 1 1/4" cement board screws. Place a screw every 12" in the field and every 8" at perimeter. Start at the bottom and work up. Hold the bottom board off the tub about 1/8". Fill that joint with silicone. Cover tub with a drop cloth and set a piece of 3/4" plywood on top of it for protection and a place to work/stand. Set alkali resistant mesh tape on all joints in thin set. Apply red guard with a cheap 3" brush. I find the brush to be much faster then screwing around with a roller or trowel with this stuff. Let dry. Apply second coat. Let dry. Apply tile. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

I also add blocking/backing between studs at the tub edge so the cement board can't be flexed at this weak spot.


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

gary.bruzzese said:


> That wouldn't be acceptable on my jobs.
> 
> No disrespect, but we would never do it like that.
> 
> ...


Different approaches, no worries. And as you point out, it is an acceptable approach at least per 2009 TCNA. Cement board is stable when wet....and if you use the right screws they are coated and will outlSt you.

To the OP, you would be good with doing EITHER the red guard OR the plastic.....but NOT both.


----------

