# Outside wall insulation



## 3/4 done (Aug 7, 2012)

Just bought a house. I removed the paneling in the den and was about to sheet rock. While I have the wall open I was debating if I should replace the current insulation on the outside facing wall. Currently, there is R7 in the wall. The house was built in 1970. That and the fact that I can't find many references to R7 insulation is making me think I should replace it. I live in NJ, just outside Philadelphia. Any feedback would be great. Thanks!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

How much insulation and what type will depend on what size studs you have and what your budget will allow.

If it's 2 X 4's then you can use fiberglass batts R-13, is it's 2 X 6's then R19.
For more R value you can get it spray foamed.

It's important while the wall is opened up any way to air seal all holes where wiring or plumbing as run and along the top and bottom plates.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

Use high density batts as well.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i was at menards today. they have R-13 batts for $25 for 107sf. and r-15 batts for $45 for 60ish sf. is this worth the extra money ?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

To help you decide; R-13 (medium density- no convective loops inherent) is R-19 (low-density with c.l.'s) only cost more due to compressing it down to 3-1/2" with more resins to keep it there. It has *40%* more material than older R-11 (unavailable now due to meeting minimum code), R-15 (high-density- no c.l.'s) has* 180%* more material than R-11. Spend the money, for your location.

Gary


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## 3/4 done (Aug 7, 2012)

Thanks for the input. My budget is that of someone that just bought a house... Non existant... :wink:
I have the 2 x 4's so I went with the R13. 

But I'm glad I decided to remove everything and put new insulation in. After removing the old stuff, I found myself looking down at my grass in a few spots... Not to mention the previous cable installer apparently drilled 2 holes in the side of the house and neglected to fill one of them. So I've repaired the holes and sealed everywhere I can. I will be going around the entire perimeter next and making sure any gaps are sealed as well. Let's hope my energy bill thanks me for it!


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

GBR in WA said:


> To help you decide; R-13 (medium density- no convective loops inherent) is R-19 (low-density with c.l.'s) only cost more due to compressing it down to 3-1/2" with more resins to keep it there. It has *40%* more material than older R-11 (unavailable now due to meeting minimum code), R-15 (high-density- no c.l.'s) has* 180%* more material than R-11. Spend the money, for your location.
> 
> Gary


thanx Gary. i did(i bought 1 bail), and will continue to, spend the money. 
i was actually looking for mineral wool, but they didn't have 16"oc stuff.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Yes, if you have/want/need/can only due to cost go with fiberglass...may as well get the best to have the second best of the lowest quality material. It is the easiest to install wrong: http://www.advancedinsulationinc.com/resources/Getting_Quality_from_Fiberglass_Insulation.pdf

You're welcome!
Gary


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

well, it looks like i have to return my batts. i bought paper faced. gotta get unfaced. but that is ok, as unfaced is less expensive.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i did some work today. i just happen to have a bail of mineral wool laying around. i wasn't planning on using it. but i thought, "if i don't use it now, when will i use it ?", so i used it. this stuff is quit dense. i am going to finish this room, our new bedroom, with this. but the rest of the house will be with fiberglass = $$$

one issue i do have with it. is that it bulges out of the cavity a little bit. idk if that will make the drywall bulge ?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Should be fine, you want full contact to drywall for no convective loops with any type cavity filler insulation.

Gary


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