# Chris the DIY guy vs. "The Ranch"



## ChrisDIY

My wife and I purchased a foreclosure in June of 2009. We originally looked at the home in April of that year but due to complications with the house did not close until June. When the home inspector looked at the house originally he found 95 items that needed to be replaced/repaired or remodeled. A few of the had to be addressed by the bank before the sale so that contributed to the delay in closing. 

So I have begun the journey of completing this list. As of the writing of this initial post I am tearing out the kitchen in order to remodel it. Issues regarding this can be found in this post. I have started a blog with the same title as I will be positing updates. There is always something with this project! Unexpected and unusual.

A few photos of the exterior and some of the items needing attention:


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## ChrisDIY

*More exterior*

...just a few out of many. That's a towel stuck in what we are told was possibly a chimney for a corn cob stove. Being right below a window I hope it wasn't...


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## ChrisDIY

*A few interior*

When you open a closet on the second floor you see the roof of the first half of the house before the addition was done. The addition is larger than the original house.


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## ChrisDIY

*The infrastructure*

The house is on a well and when we purchased it was entirely electrical. I relocated the well pressure tank and installed whole house macro filtration, softener and then whole house filtration. I also installed propane gas line and installed tankless water heaters. This was all done in July and August of last year. Our heat runs on the tankless water heaters and that was done in November.


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## gma2rjc

But look how much $$$ the previous owners saved on permits, inspections and hiring pros to do the work!  A little sarcasm there.

I'd be interested in knowing if the inspector you hired has ever found 95 things to report in any of his previous inspections. 

Thanks for posting the pics. Great thread!

Barb


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## ChrisDIY

*Guest Bathroom BEFORE*

The guest bathroom is what we are currently using as our bathroom while I tear out and work on the master suite. The pictures were taken after I had already started. The toilet, tub, bidet and Pergo floor were in good condition so they were kept to save time in getting functional bathroom. One unique feature about this bathroom was there was no door in-between the bathroom/closet and the bedroom itself.


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## ChrisDIY

*Guest Bathroom AFTER*

This is what the bathroom looks like after the short remodel. I wish I could have found a better light fixture. You can't see it since I started taking pictures after I started but the rough in is not centered.


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## ChrisDIY

gma2rjc said:


> But look how much $$$ the previous owners saved on permits, inspections and hiring pros to do the work!  A little sarcasm there.
> 
> I'd be interested in knowing if the inspector you hired has ever found 95 things to report in any of his previous inspections.
> 
> Thanks for posting the pics. Great thread!
> 
> Barb


Thanks!

90% of all the light fixtures were missing, about 75% of all the light switches were missing. Floors, toilets, you name it something wasn't up to par. The home inspector is just one of those you hire when you buy a place not the county code inspector. This thread will be ongoing as I complete the work in my spare time.

--Chris


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## ChrisDIY

*Something unusual*

found this during master suite demo...WHAT'S WITH THE BEAM???


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## ChrisDIY

*Some pictures of kitchen so far...*

Some before and current. Plan is to move the sink to a centered location on the wall. Wen to logical location for vent and it wasn't there, opened up wall more to find a vent the goes up-wards but wall ends at about 9 feet and is not continuous to roof. Will need to find where this vent goes.


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## ChrisDIY

*The Plan*

This is the current kitchen plan, subject to change...


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## Scuba_Dave

Nice looking house
Looks like you have some work ahead of you
Bathroom came out very nice


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## ChrisDIY

Scuba_Dave said:


> Nice looking house
> Loosk like you have some work ahead of you
> Bathroom came out very nice


Thanks! I'll need a lot of support and encouragement!


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## seawiz

House looks great. Good luck with all the work you have to do. Looks like you still have your work cut out for you.


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## ChrisDIY

*One of the 95 things...*

...is the fan at the apex of the roof on the back. It is no longer accessible from below nor through the attic, I have no idea if it has power or if it works.


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## ChrisDIY

*Always be prepared for "Plan B"*

Finished the drain rough-in. The original plan to tie into the main 4" drain wasn't going to work since the 4" drain is nestled in-between the supply and return ducts to the HVAC. Sounded good though...:laughing: 

Will need to work on the water supply next. Will also need to run a dedicated circuit for the dishwasher as well. The outlet that I believe was for the microwave in the original design needs to be removed or converted to the power for my under-cabinet lighting.


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## ChrisDIY

*Kitchen Water Supplies*

Put in the kitchen sink water supplies and removed the old Rosa Beta counter-top. Man, that stuff was nailed, screwed and glued down really good, but nothing a sledge hammer wouldn't fix! :laughing:

Encountered a problem a defective valve. Will have to look for a better brand, Brass Craft has been recommended.

--Chris


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## lvcontractor

I can't wait to see how it all turns out. I think I'll keep tabs on your blog.


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## ChrisDIY

*Kitchen cabinets are all gone!*

Have removed all the old kitchen cabinets and have started on getting new cabinets together. Have changed the design of the kitchen slightly. The old plumbing for the sink is exactly where the new exhaust vent for the microwave/hood combo. So will need to take that out instead of capping. The duct since its a 3.5 x 10 will take up so much room will need to finish it before I can do the electrical rough-in for the 3 appliances. Will run wires back to circuit breaker panel for electrician to connect. I'm still not comfortable working with live electricity especially in a panel. Will post a picture when I have the exhaust rough-in complete.

Also will need to run a cable for the under-cabinet lights around through the wall to tie in the light to the right of the microwave with the rest.


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## ChrisDIY

*Color Perspectives*

This is my attempt at a color rendering of the final kitchen with dine in. Attached is a current kitchen photo with a plan design from similar angle. I have all the cabinets out and will be working on the wall this week along with finalizing the ceiling paint. Since the ceiling is so high I will go ahead and put light fixtures up instead of the temporary lights. Due to the complexity of the mosaic backsplash drawing it in program is a little hard.


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## getitdone

Hey Chris,
I got in to the DIY network. I am starving for more pictures. What's this about a *Rosa* Beta being hard to take out? You have inspired me to take a look at our kitchen of twenty + years. What is the color you have on the walls? The darker color on the ceiling coming down to meet the lighter color. The darker colors to makes the ceiling invisible. I like it! Hanging lights or recessed? Love the windows, a lot of natural light. But it limits how you can set up the kitchen. I might had considered closing off the middle window, leaving the two on the ends just to have more cabinet space. I have been thinking about closing off my plant window just to have more cabinet space. As you know my kitchen is small. Okay you get back to work. I will be following the project real close. By the way, the tile for the back splash is to die for.......Gititdone.......


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## ChrisDIY

getitdone said:


> Hey Chris,
> I got in to the DIY network. I am starving for more pictures. What's this about a *Rosa* Beta being hard to take out? You have inspired me to take a look at our kitchen of twenty + years. What is the color you have on the walls? The darker color on the ceiling coming down to meet the lighter color. The darker colors to makes the ceiling invisible. I like it! Hanging lights or recessed? Love the windows, a lot of natural light. But it limits how you can set up the kitchen. I might had considered closing off the middle window, leaving the two on the ends just to have more cabinet space. I have been thinking about closing off my plant window just to have more cabinet space. As you know my kitchen is small. Okay you get back to work. I will be following the project real close. By the way, the tile for the back splash is to die for.......Gititdone.......


Thanks for the reply!

It was going to be hard until it met the sledge hammer. Was going to try and remove it in two pieces. However it was 3/4" *Rosa* :wink: and the wood was screwed down from the top and the granite glued to the board.

We had considered taking out a window as well but then the front of house would have lost character. May revisit when we do the fiber-cement board siding. This was one reason for going with white cabinets so matching months down the line would be easy. The ceiling at the peak is close to 18' had to cozy up space.

Since the ceiling is actually dropped down from the original ceiling and is filled with blow in insulation will be keeping the existing light locations and using a pendant light and new ceiling fan.

Working on exhaust vent for the cook-top. Pics coming soon.


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## ChrisDIY

Kitchen portion of the range exhaust is complete. Will need to put in the 220v lines for the induction and oven, one more single gang box and run the line for the LED lights. Will then start closing the walls up! Will need to sand down the paint on the walls so tile backsplash will adhere.


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## ChrisDIY

*Electric Water Heaters*

Oh, this house has three electric water heaters, all newer than 2002 that are not being used and willing to sell dirt cheap! Send Private message if interested.


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## Scuba_Dave

dawktah said:


> Oh, this house has three electric water heaters, all newer than 2002 that are not being used and willing to sell dirt cheap! Send Private message if interested.


I'm sure everyone near "Someplace USA" will be interested :wink:


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## ChrisDIY

Scuba_Dave said:


> I'm sure everyone near "Someplace USA" will be interested :wink:


I updated my address


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## ChrisDIY

*Moving right along...*

Dumpster arrived this afternoon. Spent most of the day tearing up the old Kitchen floor (Pergo) and sledging the bathroom walls. I had placed all the old kitchen cabinets, sinks bathtub and the like outside so I had to move that stuff into the dumpster. Thank God for my Deere 2520 with loader!!! After tearing out some bathroom walls I found insulation in two interior walls and also insulation in the bathroom ceiling. Not sure of the original layout but doesn't look like any of the adjacent spaces were non-conditioned.

I am also running another Beta version of my software running the Aprilaire thermostats. So far so good. This version uses outside temperature to set the inside mode and temperature. 

Will spend tomorrow evening moving drywall from bathroom outside and finishing that demo. Once complete will post photos and construction will begin!!! Whoo Hoo!


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## downrightart

Wow. It's coming along nicely Chris. Whatta lotta home! How many square feet is it again?


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## ChrisDIY

downrightart said:


> Wow. It's coming along nicely Chris. Whatta lotta home! How many square feet is it again?


It's about 4,000 sq. ft. of which 3,900 s. ft. needed/needs some kind of work! Will be posting more before photos in a few days.


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## ChrisDIY

Hit another hurdle, well two actually, I was wondering what the strange bump out was in the corner of the bathroom ceiling. turns out it was a very poorly managed vent pipe installation. So I found the vent from my post here. Since I have removed the old sink I am going to cut the old vent and try and connect this all with-in the ceiling space. Maybe a long 90 degree?

Larger hurdle is the area above the tub/shower is an unconditioned space with no access. Will need to be real creative to fix this see post here.

Man oh man...


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## ChrisDIY

Took some measurements and the back wall of the shower has a clearance to the roof at ceiling line of about 42 inches. With the pitch of the roof I think I am going to be hard pressed to get an access hatch min. 22" x 30" in the ceiling of the next room (pantry) to clear at 30" its whole width. I would then be forced to put the access above the shower, no, in the corner of the master bedroom, not! Will look to re-fill through hole cut in wall from loft. I figure I can save money by re-blowing insulation that's already in there.


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## ChrisDIY

Started brainstorming on trying to convert a bedroom into a bathroom. The existing bathroom is on the other side of bedroom at bottom of sketch and it's size is better suited for a closet.

The house has a unique design in that all the bedrooms are on the first floor. Above the bedroom to be converted is a loft. Because of this there are no walls above the room on two sides. The third wall is an exterior wall. In my design the shower utilizes the existing closet just deepened. The space for the toilet is the current entry to bedroom. The entire space below is a conditioned basement. The closest I can put a vent would be in the area marked. Can you put a toilet this far away from a vent provided the flow of waste is going to go directly to the septic line outside the opposite direction of the vent? All drains will most likely tee into this line as it runs to exterior wall. Tub will have to have a vent of its own, in the exterior wall.

This is an existing home so the bigger question is this going to require too much demolition? Not sure if code will allow AAV? See attached scale sketch.


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## ChrisDIY

All, holes in the sole plates have been sealed with fire stop. Walls have been closed up and I have begun joint treatment and plastering. 

Bamboo Registers arrived in the mail so will be picking up the remaining boxes of Bamboo flooring. Next on agenda finish the painting of the doors and start on the floor! :thumbup:

It's been suggested to use *"real"* rosin paper and not the cheap red stuff. Will give a brief look into this otherwise will pick up 15# roofing felt and start nailing!


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## shumakerscott

*Good Deal*

I sure hope you got a good deal with all the screw ups your having to fix, make that a give away deal! You sure aren't scared. Just like me and my project. Best of luck, dorf dude...


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## ChrisDIY

shumakerscott said:


> I sure hope you got a good deal with all the screw ups your having to fix, make that a give away deal! You sure aren't scared. Just like me and my project. Best of luck, dorf dude...


Yep! $100,000 less than owed to bank and it's value! :thumbup:


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## Scuba_Dave

dawktah said:


> It's about 4,000 sq. ft. of which 3,900 s. ft. needed/needs some kind of work! Will be posting more before photos in a few days.


That's a better percentage then my last house - it was 100% there !!


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## ChrisDIY

A few pictures of the kitchen work progress. Walls closed up with one more plastering step to complete. Largest hole was for the new exhaust for the Advantium. Advantium comes with recirculating vent with external option. I have never been a fan of recirculating vents don't seem to work IMHO. We are going to go for induction cook-top. This will be a new experience for us. So far the demos are impressive. Will need all new cookware...

Overall view of the wall where cabinets wil go and up close of the major modifications.

Will be finishing up picture rail and then to the floor. Will probably start painting door casings a little each night so when floor is complete can move quickly to install.


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## ChrisDIY

OK! I am having a beast of a time finding studs to nail the picture rail into. The 5/8" drywall is causing issues with my stud finder. Will try new batteries but I don't think that will help! :furious:


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## ChrisDIY

*Ted 5000*

TED 5000 Update

So far this is a very good investment our typical electrical consumption right now is $0.08/hr and goes up to $0.35/hr while HVAC is running. When new heat pump is installed this will probably double. Considering the cost of back up electric heat will definitely replace second unit. Just don't know with what. Second hydronic hybrid or variable speed hybrid? Variable speed is more efficient but a beast of an install since air-handler is in an interior closet with no exterior walls within 12 feet and no roof/walls above for exhaust.

Started closing up front porch as we have a squirrel(s) living in roof. Will need to make a trap door so they can get out but cannot get back in...:beta1:


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## ChrisDIY

Well, I have one less squirrel in the roof of the front porch. The squirrels are eating holes in the roof...I hate squirrels! :furious: Closed up more of the porch but will have to get the remainder of them out before the final closure. Have two traps set up outside with peanut butter will see if this works.

The picture rail molding looks very nice! As hard as it was using a coping saw to cut a cope joint it was well worth it. Since the corners were never 90 degrees it worked great for this.

I spent this evening May 2nd cutting the duct to put in the new cased coil for the heat pump. Should have that completed tomorrow with the low voltage wiring. I am going to have to replace the 8" x 24" return duct. The previous owner used Thermo-pan and this stuff is like foil coated cardboard and will not stay together with duct tape. Need good old fashioned screws! See post #4 in this thread for comparison.

Once I get the new evaporator coil in will have contractor come out and braze the line-set charge and run unit. So then the house will be fully conditioned again. Since the heat (emergency) is hydronic will need to re-fill the lines I had to drain to get coil in.


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## ChrisDIY

Cased coil is in place! Will run low-voltage wire and the line-set to the outside to await connection, weather permitting. I went ahead and re-taped the thermo-pan stuff so I can get this done and move back to working on the kitchen. If the negative pressure from use pulls it apart again I'll deal with it then. I put enough tape on to hold it.

It's always a good idea to "completely" tighten your unions before you re-fill the hydronic coil!!! :laughing:, whoops!

--


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## ChrisDIY

Kitchen has been cleaned, vacuumed and ready for the new floor! :thumbup:

Will need to check manufacturer's specs to see whether to use nails or staples. Guy at rental center encouraged me to check since the wrong fastener can void warranty he says.


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## tpolk

next time you do small moldings and want to miter check angle with bevel square and split that angle. with paint grade molding that small a slight gap is easily caulked


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## ChrisDIY

tpolk said:


> next time you do small moldings and want to miter check angle with bevel square and split that angle. with paint grade molding that small a slight gap is easily caulked


So instead of doing cope joint allow for a small gap and caulk, gotcha!


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## ChrisDIY

Well, When asking a completely different question I have found out my sump pump discharge was not done correctly. The house when inspection was done in April '09 had yellow pipes pushed down the 4" pipe leading into the sump well. However that's the way the water comes in. This was disconnected and a radon system was put in. I now have to make a hole in the outside wall to send the water directly to the outside, the correct way. Can my to do list stop growing...


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## ChrisDIY

Contractor came and brazed the lines, charged the system and ran a test so the North Side heat pump is up and running! Whoo Hoo! Now I get to tweak my software to get the most efficiency out of both units. Will use the TED 5000 to determine if there is any potential savings putting similar system in the South Side of house.

Started on the bamboo floor, this was surprising. It turned out to be a lot easier than I thought, but it's taking a lot longer than I thought. I am currently in the bulk of the floor, most of the time today was spent cutting the floor around the flush registers. Will encounter the fourth tomorrow, a bit easier since it's perpendicular to the floor slats.

Photo tomorrow 5/13/10


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## ChrisDIY

*Almost there!*

...with the floor...

This is where I had completed the floor as of Friday 5/14/2010. I am have completed as much as can be done with the pneumatic nailer and will be finishing by hand nailing. The Advantium also arrived today 5/17/2010 so will be picking that up so can move quickly to installing wall cabinets and installing the Advantium, then begin painting the baseboards and door casings.

If the weather holds up will need to complete the exhaust duct to the outside this week.


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## ChrisDIY

Bamboo floor completed today 5/19/10 at 12:55pm. :thumbup: Started right away into wall cabinet installation. One more cabinet to hang and will move to basement to complete range exhaust. Hopefully that's a single evening project. Although the only place I found duct support brackets was Menard's and they don't accept Am-Ex. :furious: As a result don't shop there too often.

Will need to order the kitchen sink, it has to be built into the sink cabinet.

Rain & T-Storms all week...


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## shumakerscott

How about some new pics? dorf dude...


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## ChrisDIY

shumakerscott said:


> How about some new pics? dorf dude...


Yeah I know, every time I have time to take photos it's stormy or raining.  Will post tomorrow evening.


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## ChrisDIY

The new HVAC unit is complete! See first photo. A new local HVAC contractor came in and ran the lines outside to the condenser unit. I put in the condensate pump to the outside until I am able to move the utility sink back into the basement and install the Hartell LTA. The unit is very quiet and compared to the older unit in the south half of the house and cycles far less. I posted a question about this and the consensus is that its not because it's a new unit. Will need to figure out how to overcome the strange return vent location the original owner constructed. See second photo. Short of tearing out a wall and running a vent to the ceiling we are having to run ceiling fans constantly to even out the upstairs and downstairs. As you can see the ceiling on the *second* floor is a cathedral type which only magnifies the problem. The return is in the top and (I added) in the wall of the closet where the air-handler is. Lower right in photo.


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## ChrisDIY

The kitchen wall cabinets are about 90% done. I need to tidy up the wires for the "in cabinet" lighting and place the decorative trim across the bottom of the cabinets. I have to finish the base cabinets after I put up the Durock Tile Membrane for the back splash. I have installed the Advantium oven and its working beautifully! With the ceilings as they were constructed I had to cut a hole through the floor into the basement to run the exhaust to the outside. I wound up making my own duct support.


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## ChrisDIY

Along the way I put in two ceiling fans on the second floor. Beforehand the upstairs was 15 degrees warmer than downstairs and we hadn't had any real hot days yet. I also installed the front porch's ceiling fan and also closed up the openings in the sides and front where squirrels were entering. You can see the new wood in the photo.

Next photos will be after I get all the base cabinets in. Have one more to pick up. No store locally has the Durock Tile Membrane so will order online.


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## Gary in WA

Remember to keep your exhaust duct terminations *3' minimum from a window opening*, door, or supply opening (furnace supply, etc.) to the house. You probably already strapped your water tanks against seismic movement, and run the TPR valve discharge down near the floor.... Looking good. 

Be safe, Gary


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## ChrisDIY

GBR in WA said:


> Remember to keep your exhaust duct terminations *3' minimum from a window opening*, door, or supply opening (furnace supply, etc.) to the house. You probably already strapped your water tanks against seismic movement, and run the TPR valve discharge down near the floor.... Looking good.
> 
> Be safe, Gary


Uh, Oh! I thought that only referred to exhaust from a combustion source like a furnace, boiler or water heater. A little late to move it. :whistling2: Those water heaters are not being used and I really need somebody to haul them off. They did work, now on Rinnai tankless. I probably should get them out of that room and eBay.


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## Gary in WA

My mistake! I was researching it from memory, and...... It was bathroom fans I was thinking about. If you ever use a hood fan around vinyl siding, I suggest some trim to keep the two far apart. I had a family of raccoons in my attic for a winter..... I know what you are going through!--- lol.

Be safe, Gary


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## ChrisDIY

Will be placing order for the kitchen sink today. Will need to build a support structure in cabinet for it. Although the sink is an under-counter sink it doesn't attach to the counter-top with clips. I would guess it's because the sink is cast iron.

I also need to start building the support structure to put underneath the oven cabinet. Specs require a support that can hold 200 lbs! That's a big turkey! :laughing: Actually the oven empty weighs 190 lbs. Wow!

The door casing I chose to put throughout the house turns out to be special order in Oak. So once I finish kitchen (using painted Poplar) will start the arduous task of replacing all the casings and trim.


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## ChrisDIY

Also, on the list is closing up the unfinished soffits. I will need input on squirrel and raccoon behavior to determine if I can wait till fall since now wasp are everywhere!!! I'm not looking forward to working on the very steep roof either. I'm thinking I will need to rent a bucket truck...

Found out the "roof closet" being an unconditioned space is contributing to the increased upstairs temperature. Used spray foam around door frame and this has reduced heat transmission. See pictures in post #3

EDIT: Isn't this incorrect? If this space is not conditioned there shouldn't be insulation on the walls right? I have no intention of converting this to a conditioned space, previous owner might have? Is there any other reason walls would be insulated? The interior of the roof on the other side has blow in insulation in it so there is more than likely insulation below the roof in the roof closet.


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## ChrisDIY

Well, I am not going to be done by the Fourth of July 

Here is where I am with the kitchen. Will need to pick up another cabinet(s) to go on the end. We have decided to plan for the Tulikivi so the peninsula end has to be ordered differently. Once I have the remaining cabinets in place will order the counter-top. Sink is estimated to arrive July 19th...


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## Gary in WA

That's coming along nicely! Don't forget to spray foam around the ducting at the rim penetration and the wires through the floor (fire-stop). 

I will correct myself yet again, right the first time: "Range hood exhaust duct shall terminate outside, shall have a 3’ clearance to windows
and doors and other openings, shall be air tight and be equipped with a back draft
damper. Ducting shall be galvanized steel, stainless steel, or copper, with a smooth
interior finish. CMC 504.2 (4)"

Keep up the good work!

Be safe, Gary


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## ChrisDIY

GBR in WA said:


> That's coming along nicely! Don't forget to spray foam around the ducting at the rim penetration and the wires through the floor (fire-stop).
> 
> I will correct myself yet again, right the first time: "Range hood exhaust duct shall terminate outside, shall have a 3’ clearance to windows
> and doors and other openings, shall be air tight and be equipped with a back draft
> damper. Ducting shall be galvanized steel, stainless steel, or copper, with a smooth
> interior finish. CMC 504.2 (4)"
> 
> Keep up the good work!
> 
> Be safe, Gary


Thanks! With no way to vent vertically and any run farther horizontal to clear a window being outside of maximum duct run, not sure how to have gotten around this. This exit only left me with 5 equivalent feet left to work with. Couldn't exceed 140 equivalent feet. Recirculating just doesn't work.

I have since sprayed more fire-stop spray foam around new appliance electrical. Used Handi-Foam, I like it, the cleaner spray is real nice.

...being safe...


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## ChrisDIY

Ooookaayyy! The sink I ordered weighs 125 lbs.!!! So I will need to make a heavy modification of the 36" sink base cabinet. Will have to brainstorm on this since the cabinets do not have the conventional front frame. Probably should add some support to the bottom.


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## MagicalHome

A list of 95 things need to be replaced @[email protected] such a very long list @[email protected] anw, imo, your house looks nice very much ;-)


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## ChrisDIY

I was called today by Lowe's to inform me that our special order *sink* was in. After I left work I headed to my nearby Lowe's. Upon arrival I went to customer service and they had to track down someone to bring it up front. In the meantime I went to look at routers since I will need one to install this sink. When I arrived back at customer service router in hand I found 3 boxes sitting on a cart. The young lady helping me, pointed to the items and said there they are. I quickly went over to inspect the boxes and immediately couldn't figure out how the sink could fit in any of the boxes. Looking closely at the label I read Cimarron Toilet Biscuit, K-4309-96. However each box had *my* name on it. Frustrated I went over to the counter and told the young lady, "that's a toilet!" She looked equally confused and said. "I did say you were here to pick up your sink..." The paperwork for the order was examined and it clearly showed K-6411-2K-FF. So it was ordered right! The manager came over and began to try and make sense of it all and started by saying it was in the back. She came back up looking very disappointed not to mention empty handed. After 15 minutes with random phone calls and talking to various people the store manager found out our sink is in *Wisconsin!* So if anybody in Wisconsin ordered a Cimarron toilet in biscuit its in Zionsville, Indiana!

Also, if anybody took the item home thinking it was a toilet, sink weighs 125 lbs. There's going to be a nice *"open box"* somewhere in Wisconsin.


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## ChrisDIY

OK, the *correct* sink arrived and I will begin modification of the cabinet. Specs. dictate that the top of the sink should be flush with the cabinet top so will have to use router to accomplish this. Will post a picture of steps and final set in.


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## ChrisDIY

Finished the modification of the sink cabinet and installed the sink. Taking a 125 lbs. cast iron sink in and out of the cabinet was no easy chore! Working with a new computer so will post pictures as soon as I can get them converted. Going to look at Zodiac Quartz countertop tomorrow!


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## ChrisDIY

As promised here are pictures of the cabinet modification and sink installation.

I had to use a router to create a recessed area for the lip of the sink. I had already mounted the sink to the back wall so had to cut it out using the jig saw and build back up using the same support as in the front. Once the countertop is in pace I will place two blocks on either side of the cabinet to have four sided support.

On a side note will need to cut and smooth out the Durock tile membrane. :whistling2:


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## ChrisDIY

Sometimes buying things wholesale isn't a good idea? Well, it could have been something else...

After looking around *ALL* of the outlets in this house are 20A! . So I spent this evening by turning off all the 20A breakers in the panel. I have found at least 80% of them still have power going to them on 15A circuits. NOT GOOD!!! I now have to see which is the path of least resistance. I know some of the runs are in 14 gauge wire but mostly I see 12 gauge in the basement. It's clearly cheaper to change the breakers over to 20A if all the wire is 12 gauge. Otherwise I will need to replace all the receptacles with 15A.

I am changing the receptacles in the kitchen to match the switches so they are all being changed to 15A receptacles. IN the long run I may just convert them all to 15A except near windows and doors _just in case_ I happen to use something that actually requires a 20A circuit.


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## Scuba_Dave

So you have 20a T-slot outlets ?
I had 2 in this house on a 15a circuit
I removed them & put them on a 20a circuit

My last house I installed a CI sink...heavy
I thought I was going to break the sink cabinet


----------



## ChrisDIY

It's nice to know you can still pick something up and carry it around that weighs 125 lbs. at 45 years old! :laughing:


----------



## Dinggus

dawktah said:


> This is my attempt at a color rendering of the final kitchen with dine in. Attached is a current kitchen photo with a plan design from similar angle. I have all the cabinets out and will be working on the wall this week along with finalizing the ceiling paint. Since the ceiling is so high I will go ahead and put light fixtures up instead of the temporary lights. Due to the complexity of the mosaic backsplash drawing it in program is a little hard.


Beautiful kitchen colors! What program are you using to draw your ideas?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Dinggus said:


> Beautiful kitchen colors! What program are you using to draw your ideas?


The old version of the IKEA Home Planner. They have a new version out that has much better 3D rendering. I used Lview Pro to colorize it.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Countertop is on order. Will be scheduling the measure in a few days. Wanted to go with Cosentino Eco but for some odd reason it only comes in 2cm. So we went back to plan A and will be installing Dupont Zodiaq quartz.


----------



## Dinggus

dawktah said:


> The old version of the IKEA Home Planner. They have a new version out that has much better 3D rendering. I used Lview Pro to colorize it.


Are you buying alot of your material from IKEA?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Dinggus said:


> Are you buying alot of your material from IKEA?


Nope, only the cabinets themselves. Thus the major sink cabinet modification. I'm in Lowe's at least two to three times a week. The next nearest major building supplies store (Home Depot) is more than 10 miles away. I frequent Do-It-Best Hardware and Ace Hardware as well.


----------



## Dinggus

IKEA is about 3hr away, the wife and I will most likely do that as well. How much is this remodeling costing? We. Want to take a wall out that splits the dining room and kitchen and redo the whole thing.


----------



## BigJim

In one of your posts you asked why would anyone use insulation on an inside wall. When I was building some customers wanted insulation to kill sound from bathroom drain pipes or sounds from the bathroom itself. Some would even have their bedroom walls insulated so they could sleep without sound bothering them.

Ole Jim


----------



## Proby

jiju1943 said:


> In one of your posts you asked why would anyone use insulation on an inside wall. When I was building some customers wanted insulation to kill sound from bathroom drain pipes or sounds from the bathroom itself. Some would even have their bedroom walls insulated so they could sleep without sound bothering them.
> 
> Ole Jim


I agree. I insulated between the bedroom walls, it helps. I also recommend insulating between the bedroom and living room in ranch style houses.


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## gma2rjc

Maybe it would help slow the spread of fire in the walls too.


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## ChrisDIY

gma2rjc said:


> Maybe it would help slow the spread of fire in the walls too.


That's optimistic but the previous owner used 5/8" firerock for every wall in this house.


----------



## Scuba_Dave

I insulated between the bathroom wall & bedroom to cut down on noise
I'll also insulate between my sons bedroom & the walk-in closet

I went to Ikea once
Never again Thanks
I think a 3 year old designed their parking lot & entrance/exit to the store


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## ChrisDIY

Scuba_Dave said:


> I insulated between the bathroom wall & bedroom to cut down on noise
> I'll also insulate between my sons bedroom & the walk-in closet
> 
> I went to Ikea once
> Never again Thanks
> I think a 3 year old designed their parking lot & entrance/exit to the store


IKEA is much better than it used to be. When I went the first time back in the early nineties you were forced to walk through the entire store. Now the store has some shortcuts. The products are also a lot better. As with this kitchen we are using the cabinets only. Getting other parts from more mainstream manufacturers. The sink is a Kohler cast iron.

I guess since I used sound batts around the PVC drain pipe in my house in Chicago, The low volume insulation didn't seem like it was going to help sound much. This house has many oddities.


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## KevinACrider

I forgot I even had an account on this forum, but as my wife and I are in the process of purchasing our first house and looking to fix it up as well, I wanted to thank you for your pictures and descriptions of your progress. It has given me a lot of ideas and inspiration for our own home!


----------



## ChrisDIY

I am thinking about building a *large* rain water collection system. I have created a sketch of what I am considering. See below. I am still trying to determine feasibility and practicality. To provide 1.5 inches of water per week to a 0.5 acre lawn in central Indiana from about mid June to Early September how much water would I need to retain? Is the amount unrealistic???

I would use one of the more advanced controllers that would use rain collection sensor and soil moisture to prevent it from using harvested rainwater until dry periods. The controller should be able to turn on the pump and incorporating a float switch should cut power to pump if water runs out.

What type of pump would I place in the "sump" to pump water into tank? I would need to make "quick connects" in order to remove all pump before winter. Our land is sloped enough to place sump and tank at least 1-2 feet below grade. Tank height I found was 97" and sump would be next to tank. Sump would have fine screen 30-45 degree angled lid. In theory rain water would flush off debris as it fills. Angle also would facilitate water getting to trench.

I have another downspout that is in a location where it is impractical to run gravity 4-6" PVC to a sump. Is there afloat activated pump that can pump from sump through 75-150 feet of 2-3" hose (PEX)

Provided tanks have knock out at bottom can connect same height tanks in series. Would just need to cut down and clear more land.

Expense may be so great I may just have to have a brown lawn...

*EDIT: *Using a calculation I found online and if I were able to use entire roof I can collect 30,000 to 35,000 gallons from April till September. I have found poly 10,000 gallon tank 12 feet wide 160 inches tall so would need to be able to pump to this height. *No holds barred*.

Conceivably could have a well water fill pipe with an "air gap" as back flow prevention since system will not be connected to homes plumbing directly.

Thinking...:whistling2:


----------



## ChrisDIY

The house has 4 downspouts. Two of which can be connected to gravity drains and ran to a "sump" which can then pump the water to the tanks. The green lines for sprinkler system is just for reference and by no means suggests a layout. Optional area to put tanks instead are #3 but would only be able to use downspout #2. Area #4 is the location which would allow sump to be right next to the tank however during the late fall and winter the tanks would be a lot more visible than sketched location. Downspout #1 should be able to have a simple 100 gallon rain barrel connected to a drip system and should work nicely for the future flower bed.

I am going to have the well cleaned and a draw down test done. If if is near the installation capacity from 2003, it may be a lot cheaper to install new well pump and upgrade the piping from the well to 1-1/4" up to the pressure tank. Are well pumps design to run for more than an hour 4 times a week?

For scale house is roughly 30 x 98


----------



## no1hustler

Great job so far! I'm really liking the colors that you chose. I may have missed it, but did you say what kind of counters you are putting it? More pics please!!


----------



## ChrisDIY

no1hustler said:


> Great job so far! I'm really liking the colors that you chose. I may have missed it, but did you say what kind of counters you are putting it? More pics please!!


Dupont Zodiaq (Quartz) Scheduled install 8/25 so will have next set of pics then.

The color is a custom color I created from the picture that I use as my Avatar.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Well the countertop is in, well sort of for now...:furious:

We want to start by commending the two installers that worked on our job. They did an excellent job of installing the countertop under the circumstances. Initially, they installed the countertop and were about to finish up with the caulking of the sink and present me with the paperwork to complete the job. The head installer pointed out that there will need to be a thick bead of caulk in the back of the sink. At that point I took out the cutting board that came with the Kohler sink and found that it did not fit properly within the cut out. I then identified that the sink did not properly align with the cut out, being a little more than ¼” too far forward. Not accepting this, I informed the installers they will have to align the countertop with the sink as per its design. This required the installers to completely undo all of their work including all the silicone, shims and the four seams that were glued with epoxy. They told me the pieces could break taking it apart. Luckily they did not. In order to get the countertop to properly fit over the sink a portion of the back edge had to be cut out to match the curvature of the wall. After a few hours more work they finished the install. 

Is this install acceptable, I am now uncertain? The installers did the best that they could under the circumstances. The problems all arose due to the measure. On August 11, 2010 Mr. XXX XXX came to the home to do the measure. During the entire visit I would have to describe his tone as very assuming and a little arrogant. I asked him whether he was going to do a laser line (as described by kitchen specialist as what will be done) and he said no, he does good measuring. I also pointed out that the wall is bowed. Not being a professional, I estimated that the bowing was about 1/8” so he suggested that I could “float out” the mortar to make it align with the countertop. Kohler supplied a template and I offered to give it to him, he remarked “I don’t need that I use CAD/CAM or something like that. At no point during this measure did he ask me if the sink was in a fixed location. I would have gladly told him that it was.

Subsequently, this caused a major problem with the counter install. The curvature of the wall should have been cut into the counter at the shop and NOT at our house. Since the curve is concave and *not* convex this would require that the deepest portion which is now almost ½” to be added to the entire slab and the curvature copied to the slab so the remaining depth is 25 ½” inches at the ends. The curvature also has created an alignment error that could have been avoided all together with a proper measure. The initial attempt at installation left gaps at both ends that was far greater than ¼” and this could not have been “floated out” in mortar before applying the backsplash tile.

When my granite countertop was installed in my previous home a paper template of the entire wall, its curvatures and irregularities along with the cabinet position was used. Nothing of this nature was used on this install. 

1. Someone from Lowe’s will need to come to our home to see this installation to see its unacceptable.
2. Although the cabinets are not perfectly straight, the front edge of the counter from one end to the other should be straight, it is not.
3. The sink and cabinets are all new but existed prior to the fabrication of the countertop. The countertop needed to match the sink, not the sink to the countertop, and the same with the wall. Regardless of how Mr. XXX XXX thought it should go.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here it is...


----------



## ChrisDIY

...and with a straight line. With it this close there is no excuse for it not to be straight.


----------



## no1hustler

Wow, that is way off.


----------



## ChrisDIY

no1hustler said:


> Wow, that is way off.


The section farthest away should be in line with the closest section. There should have been additional material on that section to bring it out. They showed up with straight piece for a curved wall.


----------



## no1hustler

I can see it without the string. I sure hope they fix it for you.


----------



## ChrisDIY

The drama begins. Mr. xxx xxxx now wants to come out and look at the countertop after photos were taken by the people at Lowe's. I am not sure why this delay is necessary. This needs to be an appointment for a new measure with all new fabrication. I have informed Lowe's that this is how I feel.


----------



## jules4

dawktah said:


> The drama begins. Mr. xxx xxxx now wants to come out and look at the countertop after photos were taken by the people at Lowe's. I am not sure why this delay is necessary. This needs to be an appointment for a new measure with all new fabrication. I have informed Lowe's that this is how I feel.


That really sucks - you must be kicking yourself for not sending Mr. xxxx packing the first time he showed up.
*
[jaded]*
I expect Mr. xxxx needs to come out so that he can figure out a way to put the blame for this on the installers and/or fabricators. 

After that he'll claim that everything can be fixed by adding more caulk. 

Then Lowe's will give you the run around a few weeks. If this fails to get rid of you, then they'll send you a formal letter expressing their "regret" at your "dissatisfaction," but say that the best they can do for you is a case of caulk at no charge (instillation not included).
*[/jaded]*


----------



## ChrisDIY

Fortunately for me I am in my local Lowe's *A LOT* so when I contacted the store about this problem they were quick to come out. The store reps saw problem and had Mr. XXX XXXX come out and yes he made a shopping list of excuses mostly directed at the installers but I knew better. We are slated for coutertop re-install Wednesday 9/22.


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## gma2rjc

It's good to know that Lowe's is doing the right thing.

Do they have anyone else who can do the job Mr. XXX XXXX did wrong the first time?

Best of luck with it!


----------



## ChrisDIY

This just keeps getting worse and worse. Turns out the shower in the master bathroom has no vent either.

See this thread:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/can-worms-stack-vent-question-81180/

Turns out these are the lines. Worst off the line I thought was the hall shower is actually the master shower and it is not vented. I will now be forced to remove all the insulation from around what I think is the stack vent and see what it goes to. Please don't let it be a fixture. The hall shower is just off the photo to the left and was not vented.

At what point do I start the complete gut of everything except the kitchen I just finished??? :wallbash:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Well here's the verdict. I am going to have to gut the master bathroom before I can start construction on the hall bathroom. There are too many mysteries as to what is properly vented and what's not. Since I am relocating the master shower I will need to tie in vent to stack or create a new one. The master bath will also have the toilet moved to a more "acceptable" location. During this demolition and construction I am going to add an access panel in the ceiling of the pantry in order to bring the attic space to code.


----------



## gma2rjc

Wow, it's just one thing after another, isn't it? Do you find that you're not surprised by what you find anymore?

You'll be glad you gutted it as now you'll know exactly what's in there.

It should be interesting (I'm not sure if that's the word you'd use) to see what's in the attic.

Thanks for the update!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Completed the installation of the Hartell LTA and the utility sink in the basement. This will solve multiple problems. I also began the process of increasing the supply line of the water to the house. Pipe size from 3/4" to 1-1/4".

The LTA unfortunately has plastic threads on its connection and in combination with the plastic threads on the bottom of the utility sink I chose to put the discharge pipe on the right away from any buckets or anything that may bump hard into it ruin the connection. The pump is quite heavy, so will have to keep an eye on it, since it does move when it kicks in. I also drilled the side of the sink to connect the three lines from the recharge lines. After looking at my photo will need to change that outlet to GFCI.

The iron filter will arrive this week so will increase line size through iron, softener and up to whole house filtration. The plan is to also move the tee for the outside spigots to after the iron filter. The brick on the front of the house shows rust staining from watering.


----------



## ChrisDIY

My wife completed the tiling of the back-splash. I cut all the pieces and she put them up. We are now in the process of selecting grout. Giving some consideration to using the Laticrete SpectraLOCK PRO Dazzle.

Any opinions or tips on using epoxy grout?

1st photo prep

2nd & 3rd photo after install

Will post photo after we grout...


----------



## ChrisDIY

I have completed phase II of the water improvement by installing the iron filter. Of course this didn't go without some snags. One threaded connection is leaking. So one day soon I will need to disassemble and re-apply the thread tape.

I am also in contact with the company I bought the filter as it still has a trickle of water coming out of the drain. It was flowing like a river when I first completed the install but had to change some settings in the Fleck valve for it to stop but it now hasn't stopped all the way.

I will be posting a picture of the kitchen the way it looks now which will be the last photo until after the kitchen completion party.

The real fun begins next Spring when I have to dig up the line outside and increase to 1-1/4"


----------



## ChrisDIY

I was sent to correct settings for the Fleck valve and now it works! No more trickle. But man oh man! This thing makes a mess when it backwashes and it uses tons of water to do so. Will be needing to replace that Hartell LTA since the long run then short cycling is going to wear it out real quick.


----------



## 240sx4u

I have to give you tons of credit, but the house itself is in a great location it appears! Worth the hard work indeed. What iron filter did you purchase? My house needs one, I have some suspended iron in the ground water.


----------



## ChrisDIY

240sx4u said:


> I have to give you tons of credit, but the house itself is in a great location it appears! Worth the hard work indeed. What iron filter did you purchase? My house needs one, I have some suspended iron in the ground water.


I picked up this one: http://www.cleanwaterstore.com/FE008120-p-greensand-filters.html

I sent in a water sample and they gave me recommendations.

Its only been running 48 hours so I will have to give you an update on its performance.


----------



## BigJim

That is a bunch of work, looking good.:yes:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Last kitchen photo, until...


----------



## BigJim

dawktah said:


> Last kitchen photo, until...


Absolutely fantastic, just beautiful buddy!!!


----------



## ChrisDIY

The soffit has been repaired so now there are no more entry points for woodland creatures. I'll be replacing that motion flood in a couple of weeks. Will be placing a separate sensor below it. Like the one in second photo.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I have also begun replacing all the outside motion lights with halogen flood lights. In connection with the Lutron system I will be able to trigger all the lights on the house to turn on when motion is sensed in any zone as opposed to just in the path of the sensor. The Lutron system will also allow us to turn the lights on if we need to do work and need the extra light.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here is a photo of the house's exterior. I have installed new lighting and I have multiple tree stumps to take out. I am trying to decide whether to remove the last tree in the driveway.

I haven't used a stump remover before so this will be interesting.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ok! Ok! Ok!

Maybe one quick peek at kitchen, installed the induction for temporary use. Will do the permanent install when we take delivery of the oven.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Praise Report! :thumbup:

Just cut hole in wall next to the walk out basement for the switch and there is paper faced insulation in this wall so the addition of the light outside this door should go much smoother than most other projects!

Will post pics as this small project progresses.


----------



## Kysupaman

House looks good and you have done some awesome work on it. I have a question about those tankless water heaters. Do they work good? We are looking to put one in the house we are remodeling and can't seem to find too many reviews on how well they work. Thanks


----------



## ChrisDIY

Kysupaman said:


> House looks good and you have done some awesome work on it. I have a question about those tankless water heaters. Do they work good? We are looking to put one in the house we are remodeling and can't seem to find too many reviews on how well they work. Thanks


They work VERY well, consistent hot water at 120 degrees as long as you want it. There are only two things to get used to:

Lag - There is a delay before water reaches set temp since water is not stored. To conserve water you can install a Taco D'Mand system at fixture farthest away if this is an issue. If I were to build a house would centrally locate unit and all fixtures with short run so this is minimized.
Cold water sandwich - if you turn hot water off and wait longer than the recovery cycle of unit you can get cold water in-between hot as unit goes through lag again. I am planning on creating a table to see minimum and maximum time to create this phenomenon.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I've decided to make the cabinet lights dimmable. Right now I have a single outlet inside the cabinet that the transformer plugs into. Will need to remove the outlet, change the box from a single to double gang box, and then install a dimmable outlet and a dimmer switch.

The lights have a electronic transformer which requires a more expensive dimmer. Unfortunately the cost difference between the regular dimmer and the electronic dimmer exceeds the cost of the lights themselves. Do you bite the bullet or just plan to replace as needed???


----------



## BigJim

dawktah said:


> They work VERY well, consistent hot water at 120 degrees as long as you want it. There are only two things to get used to:
> 
> Lag - There is a delay before water reaches set temp since water is not stored. To conserve water you can install a Taco D'Mand system at fixture farthest away if this is an issue. If I were to build a house would centrally locate unit and all fixtures with short run so this is minimized.
> Cold water sandwich - if you turn hot water off and wait longer than the recovery cycle of unit you can get cold water in-between hot as unit goes through lag again. I am planning on creating a table to see minimum and maximum time to create this phenomenon.


I don't know much about this or have given it a lot of thought but I have heard some folks have installed a 5 gallon hot water heater close to the bath so the water will be hot right off the bat. When the hot water from the tankless gets to the 5 gal unit the tank power will shut off because hot water from the tankless maintains the temps to shut the tank power off. I hope that made some sense.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I need to begin the arduous task of figuring out what two light switches are for. When we first came and looked at the house the previous owners took the vast majority of the switches. So the bank had to put something in their place. Whether the guy they hired put one way switches where three way should go...?

"So far" they are in the loft and one in the library. If we are able to install the Tulikivi on the second floor I'll be taking a wall out so one switch is in that wall. But that is far into the future. They both are one way switches but nothing goes on or off.


----------



## Bootz

Hey love the house project! The lady when she moved into the condo put down the bamboo floors and we both are really pleased with how it turned out. Are you keeping anything on the floors at all? Like to clean it? I been using warm water and like a small measurement of vinegar. This combination shines them up really nicely! BTW Really love the back splash in the kitchen :thumbup: We were looking at doing a sea glass sorta combination with ours as well  LOVE The stove range as well,,,, Lastly what does the faucet and sink look like? we just put in ours so it seems to be something I like to look at a lot when we go to friend's houses.:jester:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Bootz said:


> Hey love the house project! The lady when she moved into the condo put down the bamboo floors and we both are really pleased with how it turned out. Are you keeping anything on the floors at all? Like to clean it? I been using warm water and like a small measurement of vinegar. This combination shines them up really nicely! BTW Really love the back splash in the kitchen :thumbup: We were looking at doing a sea glass sorta combination with ours as well  LOVE The stove range as well,,,, Lastly what does the faucet and sink look like? we just put in ours so it seems to be something I like to look at a lot when we go to friend's houses.:jester:


Put in the Kohler Karbon faucet. I admit I am gadgety! It has a sink especially made for it. Will post a pic of it once I get under-cabinet lights all in.

Indio sink with Karbon Faucet


----------



## ChrisDIY

Radio RA 2 update

I had originally thought I would need two repeaters so far all the switches on the north end of the house are working off the main repeater. I will be installing the last switch in the kitchen this evening. The master bath will have switches a few feet farther so will update once I have those in and see. Just for consistency in system may add them down the road.


----------



## Bootz

dawktah said:


> Put in the Kohler Karbon faucet. I admit I am gadgety! It has a sink especially made for it. Will post a pic of it once I get under-cabinet lights all in.
> 
> Indio sink with Karbon Faucet


Awesome man! yea we went for another look i guess.. but I am going to do the lights inside of the cabinets.. yea man post up some more pics it looks really awesome :thumbup:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Good News

Tulikivi has introduced a more modern Soapstone wood stove. Actually, fits much better into our design.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Trying to decide how to manage this dilemma

Since floor joists most likely run perpendicular to the direction I need to go I can cut a section out of laundry room ceiling to run duct in and replacement of drywall should be easy. Downside is I will have to go through the firewall into garage :huh: and then run duct along ceiling of garage to a location and up through ceiling of garage and into floor on Library room. Not sure if that's even code. Duct would need to be insulated since garage is not a conditioned space.


----------



## Bootz

I can imagine all the wood stove pizzas you will be making in that stove .... :drool: lol


----------



## ChrisDIY

Took out the vanity mirror and found this behind it on the wall to the left.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Can't wait to figure out what this is...


----------



## ChrisDIY

...Ready to take another load! :thumbup:


----------



## Scuba_Dave

Nice !!
I could have used that when I gutted my sons room


----------



## ChrisDIY

Scuba_Dave said:


> Nice !!
> I could have used that when I gutted my sons room


...nothing runs like a Deere


----------



## Bootz

Yea wish I could use one too... oh well thank god for condo living  I dunno though my parents could really use one though


----------



## ChrisDIY

I guess I won't be using this rough in...interesting solution though.

May have to move entire rough in about 5" to the left anyway.


----------



## ChrisDIY

FOUND THIS IN FURNACE!

Don't know why this happened or whether it will occur again. Shortened wire and put new tab connector on. Will check it in a couple of days. Delta rise is better but still isn't ROCKIN'...

This unit is on the long list to be replaced like the other one. Will keep going with the Band-Aids.


----------



## Bootz

What was that ... that you found?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Bootz said:


> What was that ... that you found?


Don't know name for it but it was one of the 120v lines running from the breaker to the resistance heat strip. Had melted and was carbonized. Something shorted out but there was nothing visible that could have made a contact closure?

Getting a delta rise now of about 10 additional degrees, which still isn't at spec.


----------



## ChrisDIY

The hall bath and the master bath demolition is complete! I will begin marking out rough in locations and making sure all components chosen are going to work together.

Hall Bath


----------



## ChrisDIY

Master bath View 1


----------



## ChrisDIY

View 2


----------



## ChrisDIY

View 3


----------



## ChrisDIY

View 4


----------



## ChrisDIY

This corner will need some brainstorming. I can either box it out but will look odd, as before demo, or I can move vent into this wall. Trouble is it goes straight down into soil stack and trying to offset may be too hard with all the ducts and wires in place. The electrical line is the main branch to the upstairs TV room. I can pull it out of the circuit breaker panel (or hire electrician after the HVAC guys apprentice caused the most sparks I have ever seen pulling one out) reroute into wall and place back into panel.

...and no that romex was not attached to anything...


----------



## tpolk

boy that's an intense dolor


----------



## ChrisDIY

tpolk said:


> boy that's an intense dolor


Hopefully, I can get Kilz to cover it! :laughing:


----------



## Bootz

Yea I have to say it is a very intense Pink


----------



## ChrisDIY

Bootz said:


> Yea I have to say it is a very intense Pink


I feel some oil based coming on... :laughing:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Currently working on the arduous task of planning out the drain vents. 
Need to locate new location of toilet in Master Bath and make sure it clears the floor joist. It appears I will be yet again taking a shower in blow in insulation as I create a hole to pass the drain vent into attic. I hope I can cut off this elbow and replace with sanitary tee and alignment doesn't get thrown off.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Master bathroom redesign is going to call for the new toilet to go about 2'-3' away from the main drain line. To connect I will need to tie straight in at an angle that is maybe more than 45 degrees. Will need to select the fittings I am sure a long sweep is in order so there is no impaction, unless this wouldn't happen.

This will also call for removal of one of the supply ducts. Good thing is the one headed to the closet which will become the shower will no longer be side so will swap it over. Thing is I will need to put at least a 6" hole in an IP joist. Specifically an IPI-200 joist. Will need to find info for this.


----------



## ChrisDIY

OK, this gets worse. The drain from the old master sink goes through the floor and creates a notch in the top of the IP joist. It is clearly more than 3 feet away from an outside wall. I don't think the wall below it actually reaches the joist to make it weight bearing. The plan was to move the drain a few inches but this will mean cutting a hole and notching the joist myself, and in the same area! 

Will post pics.

So far I found for one type of engineered joist you can cut webbing up to four inches from flange. Will need to verify for my brand.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Correction hole in the top flange of the IP joist. Will be calling manufacturer today.


----------



## tpolk

depending on how much of flange is gone you may be able to add bolt thru flat steel plate to each side of flange


----------



## ChrisDIY

tpolk said:


> depending on how much of flange is gone you may be able to add bolt thru flat steel plate to each side of flange


The whole thing...


----------



## tpolk

are the flanges 3.5" wide? looks like you need to check for sag at that point with straight edge to see if it has moved, those are pretty beefy joists and you may be able to still do some laminating after talking to the joist manufacturer


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here is the view from the other side. Top flange is cut through with about 2-1/4" of the top of the webbing. :no:

In the very lower left and bottom of photo you can see a framed wall. Trouble is I can stick a sheet of paper in-between the joist and the top about half way.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Well, it's beginning to look like the path of least resistance will be to use the old bedroom that was going to be the master closet and make it the master bathroom instead. Instead of trying to maneuver, relocate, the stack vent, tie in two bathrooms into it and trying to put 4" drain in a basement with HVAC ducts galore, just isn't easy.

Instead I can run the "soon to be" 1" hot and cold line over and build a new drain system to exit out foundation wall right into the septic line.

Removing the santee and replacing with a coupling is so much easier!:yes: All I will need to focus on is getting hall bathroom up to code. Will need to involve a roofer and a plumber to do the new soil stack vent. Yes, I will have the soil stack vent right behind the toilet! :laughing:


----------



## ChrisDIY

I've started using this program to hopefully help with the layout of the master bath. Hopefully adding supply and drain pipes aren't harder than actually doing it in real life which would defeat the purpose.


----------



## frenchelectrican

dawktah said:


> FOUND THIS IN FURNACE!
> 
> Don't know why this happened or whether it will occur again. Shortened wire and put new tab connector on. Will check it in a couple of days. Delta rise is better but still isn't ROCKIN'...
> 
> This unit is on the long list to be replaced like the other one. Will keep going with the Band-Aids.





Bootz said:


> What was that ... that you found?


That is heat sequincer or relay depending on the set up and I know alot of HP { heat pumps } will have back up electric heat in there and the numbers of relays will depending on the size of electric heater itself.

Merci.
Marc


----------



## ChrisDIY

So far I have these two views. The mirror is ceiling hung and is two sided so "in theory" I can shave in the shower...


----------



## frenchelectrican

I have see that in simauir fashon in France { that where I am now } and it not too bad at all beside what this guy did use stainless steel cabents to match the stainless steel tiles kinda instering set up.

I did the wiring in that place it was not too bad at all.

Merci.
Marc


----------



## ChrisDIY

I have found a device that will allow for adequate repair of the damaged joist. They also sell a product which will allow me to cut a 3" hole in the webbing which opens the door back up to the original design with the Schluter-Kerdi 48" x 48" shower kit, a bench and curb surround. The jury is still out on whether the new toilet location can be done due to it's location almost directly above main drain line.


----------



## ChrisDIY

More views of Plan A

The toilet pictured at right is the one with a hard to plumb location. Overall, to achieve this the ceiling will need to be lowered enough to hide the needed vents. One major advantage to this design vs. the other one listed a couple of posts above is the water heaters and other water devices are immediately below this room.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Reverse


----------



## Bootz

dawktah said:


> Reverse


Dude love the computer program !!! Can never have enough toys to help with a project :clap:


----------



## ChrisDIY

This one is free...:thumbup:


----------



## ChrisDIY

I shortened the bench, there was no place to step in. Code requires that the door swings out but this works better for entering.

Will hopefully have a verdict on drains soon.


----------



## ChrisDIY

This is probably the last design tweak I'll do until I get a go ahead on the plumbing rough in. It will take me a month to tile this bathroom...:whistling2:


----------



## ChrisDIY

The sink we are planning to use is the Rêve™ 39" pedestal lavatory. Same dimensions of the Escale but its not in the 3-D warehouse. Here is a picture of it.


----------



## gma2rjc

It's pretty. I can't wait to see the bathroom when it's finished.


----------



## DangerMouse

Wow, it'd take me a YEAR to tile that!

DM


----------



## ChrisDIY

The Verdict is IN!

The toilet can be placed in the location in the plan "A." The entire drain configuration is going to be removed and replaced. I will no longer have to deal with the 15" run and 18" drop. :thumbup: Instead the line will run immediately underneath. Once its done will post photos. 

Will be moving the vent to within the wall. Oddly, the pipe as it enters the floor doesn't go straight down to drain like I thought, its far more convoluted in joist space, prompting the complete re-do.


----------



## cocobolo

Well, certainly glad you got THAT sorted out!

Sorry I haven't posted here before, life has been getting in the way. I'll try to keep up with you a bit more in future.

Any tile problems...look up Bud Cline. He's the best.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Well, I am now forced to make another big decision. Turns out the duct for the exhaust fan is the cheap foil and wire type and is 4". As far as I can tell its connected to an eave type exhaust vent on the outside. In the Broan literature they say you need at least a 160 cfm fan to use these??? :furious: OK, a 160 cfm fan requires 6" or 8" duct. With all the blow in insulation getting to eave is going to be a nightmare! The other option which I'd like to avoid but it seems I have no choice is roof penetration. BUT, the soils stack vent pipe is right here? I am forced to use an insufficient size duct, I'll just have to hope for the best! Highest I can get in 4" is 110 cfm. I feel cold air so just maybe this isn't a broan eave vent and there is no damper at the terminus???


----------



## ChrisDIY

The Kohler "Groove" shower receptor required that a pretty large hole had to be cut in the sub-floor. With the previous drain hole cut I reinforced the floor where the blue square is located. I will need to put in a piece of OSB underneath where the red square is and then fill with floor leveling compound before I glue down the receptor.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here is where I am with the shower framing. Once the plumbing in the left wall is complete will continue with the framing of the new ceiling. Currently bringing it down about 8". This should give me room for the new recessed can lights, and exhaust fan. See post #172. You can see where I removed the old fan and the cheesy vent pipe for it.

I am going to have to go back to using a real camera and not this phone to take pictures. You cannot see the markings for where the shower framing will be once I finish drain vent pipes.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Yes your eyes are not deceiving you! There is 12 gauge wire running into this box and 14 gauge coming out. I am going to post to electrical forum but I think this is a serious NO NO!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Well, no post needed found confirmation in previous posts. The big question is, as I had already flagged this circuit, is that is has a 15A breaker on it in the panel. So I or my electrician will need to:

Change breaker to 20A AFCI
Find a 15A circuit to pull up instead. I'm getting writer's cramp working with this 12 gauge
Since same thing is done on wall outlet will need to install new GFCI
Do I need to change the 15A circuit I am going to use to a new AFCI? What I don't understand is why there are two hot lines running into the same box? This was done again on the lower bath wall outlet. Since wire disappears into floor above I cannot just remove the outlet all together. Will need to find 20A tamper resistant GFCI. :furious:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here is the plumbing rough in and framing modification for the recessed vanity mirror/cabinet. I more than likely will change the hot water supply to a 45 street and then a 90 to get more of the 1/2" pipe behind the wall. Had to do a quick and dirty to get water back on.

As in an earlier post the engineered joist was cut below this location so I had to use the existing holes.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I have done a similar modification in the hall bathroom. This will also get a recessed mirror/cabinet. You can also see the ceiling and shower framing in progress. Rough plumbing and electrical to follow.


----------



## ChrisDIY

This house has reached the point of completely gutting and starting from scratch! :furious: I just need the money to do it!

After thinking about my earlier post I went into the basement to look at the circuit breaker panel. There are only two (2) Romex lines going into the panel that are 14 gauge. However, there are five (5) 15A breakers in the panel.  One is unused as it took place of half a 220V that was no longer needed with new air-handler. So on the panel end can change to 20A, however now I have multiple lines of 14 gauge on a 20A circuit...

However, I have encountered 14 gauge wire in numerous places which means I have multiple places where there are 14 gauge wires connected to 12 gauge somewhere. :no:

How else do you fix this???


----------



## ChrisDIY

I have begun the bathroom re-wire and pulled up a new 15A line dedicated to this bathroom. AFCI breakers ARE HUGE!!! It's a good thing I work in circuit panels with the power "outside" turned off at service disconnect. :laughing:

Will be installing 15A receptacles in this room. Will need to figure out an appropriate pattern for recessed can lights. One directly over pedestal and one directly over toilet seems best. So the others in symmetry?

The four gang box I installed is deep enough I should have no issues with the 12 gauge splice in the back. Had I tried this still using 12 four the switches might not have flown. Need to get switch color squared away. I guess it will boil down to where the tile paint interface is located.


----------



## Bootz

Hey buddy  good to see some one in the project show case is still posting hope the wiring goes better for you


----------



## ChrisDIY

I will probably need to cut out one of my brand new bathroom ceiling framing since I didn't think about final design. To provide additional light I need to put one of the recessed can lights directly above the pedestal sink. Right now that is the exact location of the stud. I'll have to cut it out and move it about 4-5" to the left.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Bathroom rough work is coming along. Just so I am thinking correctly I will have four items only on this dedicated 15 amp circuit

Sconces 2 x 0.833 amps = 1.66 amps
Recessed lights 6 x 0.0667 = 0.4 amps (LED)
Heat light 1 x 2.1 amps
Bath fan 1 x 0.3 amps

Total: 4.46 amps

Receptacles are on a different dedicated 20 amp GFCI bath circuit.


----------



## frenchelectrican

ChrisDIY said:


> Bathroom rough work is coming along. Just so I am thinking correctly I will have four items only on this dedicated 15 amp circuit
> 
> Sconces 2 x 0.833 amps = 1.66 amps
> Recessed lights 6 x 0.0667 = 0.4 amps (LED)
> Heat light 1 x 2.1 amps
> Bath fan 1 x 0.3 amps
> 
> Total: 4.46 amps
> 
> Receptacles are on a different dedicated 20 amp GFCI bath circuit.


As long you keep the lights on seperted from the receptale circuit that is not a issue { just watch out about the AFCI requirement if your state required } 

Merci.
Marc


----------



## ChrisDIY

frenchelectrican said:


> As long you keep the lights on seperted from the receptale circuit that is not a issue { just watch out about the AFCI requirement if your state required }
> 
> Merci.
> Marc


Yeah I went AFCI, plan on doing that each time I re-wire. That AFCI is huge! Any idea where to get a new sticker for inside of panel door?


----------



## ChrisDIY

I switched back to the SLR, cell phone pictures just weren't working...

Hall bath rough-in

You can see ceiling drop and shower frame out/in? Six recessed lights, fan and heat bulb.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Close up of shower valve, three way transfer valve and main showerhead.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ceiling lighting and fan. Used previous duct, so added on an extension. Fan output 110 cfm.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Close up of shower ceiling rain showerhead and shower lighting. These lights haven't been tightly secured yet will get on centerline.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Lastly vanity area. This turned out to be a problem.  The boxes I need for the sconces I couldn't get affixed to the studs since there was no room to nail. I will have to drywall and cut hole and use old work boxes. I have ran the electrical long enough to reach in and make the proper connections. Will need to figure out what height those sconces will need to be. 

Recessed mirrored cabinet framed out as well. Plan is pedestal sink so installed backer board. Due to location of IP joists had to use existing water supplies just made as best of a connection as I could above the floor.


----------



## frenchelectrican

ChrisDIY said:


> Yeah I went AFCI, plan on doing that each time I re-wire. That AFCI is huge! Any idea where to get a new sticker for inside of panel door?


The most simple way is print the new one on your printer it much easier and you can able adjust the font and spacing size much better than the OEM sticker { more than half of the time it not worth a  }

That what I do that all the time.

I have printed in both Engish and French but other langunages as well if the owner request it.

Merci.
Marc


----------



## ChrisDIY

Generator Solution:

Plan A:

Change panel closest to meter to 40 circuit load shedding panel
Move HVAC and a few other circuits from second panel this panel
Set up ATS based on shedded load
Plan B:

Install 400 amp DPDT manual transfer switch
Add freeze protection to tankless
Pray we don't lose power for multiple days the first days of our typical Valentine's Day vacation.
Install 17 (18Kw) genny.


----------



## ChrisDIY

The final solution is we will be installing a Generac Guardian RTS16EZA1 sub panel next to the circuit panel nearest to the meter. We will also need to upgrade to a 40 circuit panel unless the current circuits can be streamlined. Will create an Excel spreadsheet

Have 5 double pole breakers. Leaves 20 circuits. One currently open *Need 3 free*. Will try to combine some of the single pole breakers by doing the following:

Isolate refrigerator to single circuit?
Put downstairs receptacles all on one breaker
Put upstairs receptacles on one breaker
Try to figure out if any lighting loads are sharing breakers with receptacles, if so split, lighting to one, receptacles to another.
Calculate lighting load and combine to be acceptable.
Double tapped breakers use junction box instead outside of circuit panel??? Just looks a mess in there to me and will make addition of AFCI a nightmare.
Aim for circuit "logic"
Bedrooms (now in two sections)
Kitchen (now is in three sections)
Exterior
Basement

Then running entire new lines and receptacle for garage Rinnai, and up to the switch in closet for the future hydronic air-handler. 

The harder project will be finding and changing removing the home run for the 20A circuit that covers the back hallway.


----------



## PeterAC

Nice pictures. But software was used to make your plans?


----------



## frenchelectrican

ChrisDIY said:


> The final solution is we will be installing a Generac Guardian RTS16EZA1 sub panel next to the circuit panel nearest to the meter. We will also need to upgrade to a 40 circuit panel unless the current circuits can be streamlined. Will create an Excel spreadsheet
> 
> Have 5 double pole breakers. Leaves 20 circuits. One currently open *Need 3 free*. Will try to combine some of the single pole breakers by doing the following:
> 
> Isolate refrigerator to single circuit?
> Put downstairs receptacles all on one breaker
> Put upstairs receptacles on one breaker
> Try to figure out if any lighting loads are sharing breakers with receptacles, if so split, lighting to one, receptacles to another.
> Calculate lighting load and combine to be acceptable.
> Double tapped breakers use junction box instead outside of circuit panel??? Just looks a mess in there to me and will make addition of AFCI a nightmare.
> Aim for circuit "logic"
> Bedrooms (now in two sections)
> Kitchen (now is in three sections)
> Exterior
> Basement
> 
> Then running entire new lines and receptacle for garage Rinnai, and up to the switch in closet for the future hydronic air-handler.
> 
> The harder project will be finding and changing removing the home run for the 20A circuit that covers the back hallway.


I think that is a 16 space panel however I know you will need Fridge on it own circuit otherwise tie to one of the small appaince circuit { get one is not heavy used something like dinning room circuit that is part of SABC } 

For the bedroom I will just leave it alone much as you can { I do not know if you ran the light seperatated from the receptale circuits so confirm this one s.v.p. }

Kitchen you will have to choose one which one most likey you will need the most.

A exteior { outside light } it should be on one of the genral lighting circuit and basement should one on other lighting circuit.

for HVAC unit I know 14 KW genny will handle one HVAC unit but not both IIRC unless both are in heat mode { gas or other type as long it is not electrique heat } 

I will make more reply little later when my mind get refreshen up a bit.

Merci.
Marc


----------



## ChrisDIY

PeterAC said:


> Nice pictures. But software was used to make your plans?


Sketch Up 8 and it's FREE!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ok, spent this afternoon and this evening identifying circuits. Did not do a survey of outside outlets and all the outside lights but!

The kitchen is using the following

1-3 Induction
5-7 Oven
9-11 Advantium
2 Dishwasher
14 North wall receptacles
18 One Pendant light (mixed with exterior lights on that side)
20 Single Wall receptacle (that happens to have wine cellar plugged in it)
21 East side of kitchen wall receptacles
23 South half of kitchen lighting, ceiling fan pendants
24 West side of kitchen wall receptacles
25 Kitchen counter GFCI

Refrigerator is on 22 which is also the ceiling and switched lights for the bedrooms.

That's almost half the breakers on just the kitchen. I also found the following not in use a 2-pole 13-15 and 8 which currently has a 30A in it. So streamlining one circuit will open up the *4* we need!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ceiling of the bathroom is in. Whew! I barely was able to get the panel lifter in to the frame out for the shower. The large holes in the floor didn't help either.


----------



## ChrisDIY

It has been a while since I have posted. Have been working diligently! I have completed the dishwasher installation. I ran the wires and water supply a few weeks ago so when the unit arrived only had to work on the drain. Boy did this turn out to be difficult. I ordered a watts tail-piece on February 15th and as of today's date I have not received it, so off to Lowe's. Knowing I have the brass tail-piece on order I bought the plastic ones. Low nd behold the connection was too low on the tail-piece to get it to connect to the existing drain. We have one of the new style deep basin cast iron sinks so I guess the bottom is much lower than standard. I then went back to buy the only other one they had which was chrome but has a 7/8" connection. So now this is in place and the one I ordered online has yet to show.


----------



## ChrisDIY

The bulk of my time has been in the hall bathroom. I have completed the Durock install in the shower and have all but one wall to apply drywall. I should be able to do the last wall this evening and begin joint treatment around the shower as tonights wrap up.

I am still deciding on whether to use edge pieces or to butt ceramic tiles for the outside corners around shower. It would be easier if I can get an inside corner outside corner ceramic tile piece, if such a thing exists. Will go in upper left of shower at Durock and green-board interface.

Will fill large gaps with EasySand 45, then continue with Joint compund.


----------



## ChrisDIY

*Back at it*

After a very long trip I am back working on the house. Walls have been mud and taped. Sanding is complete in areas that will not get tile. Tonight will paint ceiling. Using Behr Premium with primer in paint so should be able to get two coats on before bed.

Decided to go with a slightly off white color in family of painted portion of wall. I think "ceiling white" will have too much contrast.

I'm still "up in the air" on the membrane. Many camps, too many lawyers and America is very capitalistic...


----------



## Jim F

ChrisDIY said:


> Ceiling of the bathroom is in. Whew! I barely was able to get the panel lifter in to the frame out for the shower. The large holes in the floor didn't help either.


That looks to be an 8 ft ceiling. A couple of homemade deadmen can get the job done if you ever run into a situation like that again. Generelly these are made slightly longer than the ceiling is high and work best in pairs.


----------



## ChrisDIY

To make my life easier will be trying the Laticrete paint on waterproofer. Had trouble with wrinkles on kitchen backsplash, shower is alcove...

Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


----------



## ChrisDIY

All the bathroom painting was done last week. Will need touch up after tiling

Just finished applying first coat of Hydro-Barrier tonight. Getting the fabric in place was the hardest part. Reminds me a lot of high tech Elmer's glue. You are supposed to place fabric on a coat of it but it dries so fast makes it hard to get good liquid penetration. Needs two people to install it in right.

Will post a picture after finishing the second coat.

Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


----------



## ChrisDIY

Jim F said:


> That looks to be an 8 ft ceiling. A couple of homemade deadmen can get the job done if you ever run into a situation like that again. Generelly these are made slightly longer than the ceiling is high and work best in pairs.


Will try that in master bathroom. Might just use some "live men." 

Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


----------



## ChrisDIY

Started tiling the bathroom today and made a few mistakes:

Mixed 3/4 of a 50lb. bag of mortar so wound up wasting half of it.
Bought a Ridgid R4020 from Home Depot and it is not cutting 4" ceramic tiles well at all. A lot of chatter and corner is being knocked off right before I finish the cut.
May have mixed batch a little too dry or this stuff Mapei Ultraflex 2, just starts setting in a couple of hours.
Will need to address saw situation first. At my rate of progress, purchasing a saw is more economical. $240 rental for 4 days and I still have this room and two others to do.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Working sure and steady. I have at least 8 days in so far on the tile so buying a saw definitely was the right move. Purchased a bridge saw from Harbor Freight. Works well, for me. After fiddling with it for about 30 minutes I was able to get in aligned so it is cutting perfect 90 degrees.

However I have the following problems with it. The greatest is the plug for the tray leaks so I have to keep a bucket underneath it. Once I find an old fashioned rubber stopper this will be fixed. Second the person assembling it did not put the sticker on for the scale in the outlined area so its 1/8" off. 

I have taken pictures so I need to post them. I have the ceiling of the shower to tile and all the tile along the bottom of the shower and the base cove tile around the perimeter of the bathroom.

I plan on putting Hydro-Barrier on at least half of the floor. This might be overkill...


----------



## ChrisDIY

Below you will see the bathroom after I have completed painting of the ceiling, walls and applied one coat of Hydro-Barrier.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here is a up close view of the single coat of Hydro-Barrier and you can see where I used the membrane fabric for joints and screw holes.


----------



## ChrisDIY

About a month and a half later I have completed tiling and grouting the walls. I have just cleaned the floor in preparation for putting down the Durock, to be followed by Hydro-Barrier.

I will never use Scotch 3M painters tape anymore as you can see earlier I had painted the wall before tiling. Knowing I would have some grout go off the tile I taped it off. When I removed the tape so did my paint. :furious:

This morning I had to cut in around the tile which will leave brush marks when I had a nice rolled finish oh well.

Once I have the floor in place I will go back and place the base cove tile.


----------



## Dinggus

Looks good! I can't wait to see it finished.


----------



## coderguy

That tile looks great; This thread is very helpful as I start to plan our bathrooms. Can't wait to see you finish it up!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished the hydro-barrier so will be tiling the floor tomorrow. Since the shower base is the line of sight I will use that for reference.

Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


----------



## ChrisDIY

Houston....

We have marble.....

The floor is in although there were some cracked tiles in the boxes, had four extra. Will keep in basement "just in case."

Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


----------



## Dinggus




----------



## ChrisDIY

Dinggus said:


>


Did you want a picture of the floor or the cracked tiles? :laughing:


----------



## Dinggus

Floor, lol.


----------



## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> About a month and a half later I have completed tiling and grouting the walls. I have just cleaned the floor in preparation for putting down the Durock, to be followed by Hydro-Barrier.
> 
> I will never use Scotch 3M painters tape anymore as you can see earlier I had painted the wall before tiling. Knowing I would have some grout go off the tile I taped it off. When I removed the tape so did my paint. :furious:
> 
> This morning I had to cut in around the tile which will leave brush marks when I had a nice rolled finish oh well.
> 
> Once I have the floor in place I will go back and place the base cove tile.


Chris, sometimes it seems that tape works and other times not so well.

If the paint is well cured, and you press the tape just on the side you are trying to protect it usually works OK.

One of the biggest secrets is removing the tape as soon as possible after you have applied it.


----------



## cocobolo

Chris...are you saying that you put marble tile on the floor?


----------



## ChrisDIY

cocobolo said:


> Chris...are you saying that you put marble tile on the floor?


Yes, just the Lowe's variety, nothing fancy. Will post a picture tonight. I didn't take a picture of the underlayment and membrane application.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Photos of "the floor."


----------



## ChrisDIY

Closet flange cut out.


----------



## ChrisDIY

No lippage...


----------



## ChrisDIY

Overall, will be working on the base cove tile tonight.


----------



## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> Yes, just the Lowe's variety, nothing fancy. Will post a picture tonight. I didn't take a picture of the underlayment and membrane application.


Hi Chris. 

The reason I asked if you were using marble on the floor was only due to the safety factor. I don't know if you have ever tried to walk on wet marble, but it's extremely slippery.

Perhaps there is some sort of sealer you can add to try and alleviate some of the slickness, I really don't know.

Get hold of Bud Cline on the site here and see if he has any suggestions.

I did a job for a customer once and she insisted on marble tile on a step getting out of a fancy soaker type tub. Nothing I said was going to convince here to use anything else. Finally I said if I put marble on that step (the tub was set in a marble surround) I'm going to get you to sign a piece of paper guaranteeing me that you will use a foam backed piece of carpet on that step when you use the tub. She signed, I installed, and even then it was against my better judgment. :huh:


----------



## ChrisDIY

cocobolo said:


> Hi Chris.
> 
> The reason I asked if you were using marble on the floor was only due to the safety factor. I don't know if you have ever tried to walk on wet marble, but it's extremely slippery.
> 
> Perhaps there is some sort of sealer you can add to try and alleviate some of the slickness, I really don't know.
> 
> Get hold of Bud Cline on the site here and see if he has any suggestions.
> 
> I did a job for a customer once and she insisted on marble tile on a step getting out of a fancy soaker type tub. Nothing I said was going to convince here to use anything else. Finally I said if I put marble on that step (the tub was set in a marble surround) I'm going to get you to sign a piece of paper guaranteeing me that you will use a foam backed piece of carpet on that step when you use the tub. She signed, I installed, and even then it was against my better judgment. :huh:


Since we don't have radiant heat and this house tends to be cold in the winter we will be using rubber backed mats I'm sure. Thanks for the concern.


----------



## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> Since we don't have radiant heat and this house tends to be cold in the winter we will be using rubber backed mats I'm sure. Thanks for the concern.


Excellent idea, that should cover it nicely.

And BTW, looking VEEERRRYY nice!


----------



## ChrisDIY

All tiling complete, will be doing final grouting tomorrow. Will post a pic afterward. I also started installation of the fixtures in the shower. Intuitively, I have to grout half the floor, wait, sponge it down a few times, then do the last half in order to keep from tracking on it?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Tiling and grouting complete. :thumbup:


Will be putting in pedestal sink and toilet then taking a break.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Project update.

I have place the sink and the toilet and of course this didn't go a smoothly as I would have liked. The pedestal if you install it according to the "instructions" will cause it not to be installed correctly. The instructions say leave hanger bolts 1-1/2" from finished wall when they need to be more like 1-5/8". Also, there is no clearance and was a nightmare to connect the P-trap while pedestal was in place. Had to loosen bolts take it out and assemble the p-trap and put pedestal back. This wasn't a solo project, good thing my wife was able to help. Will caulk it tonight.

The toilet is a Cimmaron with "Class Six Flush Technology." I am a little worried about how little water is used to flush, looking like a double flush to me. Not following the point of the low volume flush if it doesn't work. My first mind is not to caulk this toilet to the floor, since I'm thinking its going to get replaced with a Toto.

The tank lid was cracked in half when I opened the box. Irony is when I picked the items up from Lowe's the guy said they inspected everything. No they didn't! :furious: So now we have a 40 day lead time on a new tank lid.

I am waiting on more items to arrive to complete the install. The shower head diverter, rain shower head, mirrored cabinet and towel racks.


----------



## Scott_

*Kohler Groove Shower pan*

Hello,

Your bathroom project looks great! I like the tile work very clean look. I'm curious about your shower pan. I am in the process of building a bathroom in our addition. I have purchased what I think is the same shower pan, a Kohler Groove. I am just about ready to install it and have cut the hole in the floor the same as your pictures. The problem I have is the shimming, It seems the front has to be shimmed up about 1.5" for the lip to be even on the floor. I can't cut even shims due to the odd placement of the OSB squares they have attached. Could you let me know how you went about installing your pan? I would appreciate any input you could provide.

Scott


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## ChrisDIY

Scott_ said:


> Hello,
> 
> Your bathroom project looks great! I like the tile work very clean look. I'm curious about your shower pan. I am in the process of building a bathroom in our addition. I have purchased what I think is the same shower pan, a Kohler Groove. I am just about ready to install it and have cut the hole in the floor the same as your pictures. The problem I have is the shimming, It seems the front has to be shimmed up about 1.5" for the lip to be even on the floor. I can't cut even shims due to the odd placement of the OSB squares they have attached. Could you let me know how you went about installing your pan? I would appreciate any input you could provide.
> 
> Scott


When it is resting on the subfloor does it rock? You only need to shim it to make it level. Don't worry about the bottom of the pan being even with the tiled floor. Leave a gap for expansion and fill with silicone caulk. The bottom of ours is at least half an inch below the tiled floor. I will post a closer detailed photo. I had the luxury of being able to see the hole from below to make sure there were no interferences. The OSB blocks should rest on the floor if they don't the cut out may be keeping it from seating. Will post a pic from below as well.


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## ChrisDIY

Had a chance to take a shower in the new install. It is a very nice showering experience. I will need some help with the master shower, unless this is unavoidable. When using the three way valve you get a nice thrill from cold water left in pipes. I cannot think of any way to plumb so all water completely drains out after water is turned off. Valve only allows two things to be selected at once. I guess the other simpler option is to run all the ports before getting in.

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## ChrisDIY

Finished the installation of the reverse osmosis yesterday. Drained three tanks and now the unit is in service. Water directly from unit has a lot of tiny bubbles in it, I guess they go away over time? Definitely improvement in taste! :thumbup: And this is at room temperature!

Those that asked why I did a double P-trap, well now you have your answer!


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## javagirl500

ChrisDIY said:


> This is the current kitchen plan, subject to change...


I would keep space above sink open... no cabinet... or a short one


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## ChrisDIY

Scott_ said:


> Hello,
> 
> Your bathroom project looks great! I like the tile work very clean look. I'm curious about your shower pan. I am in the process of building a bathroom in our addition. I have purchased what I think is the same shower pan, a Kohler Groove. I am just about ready to install it and have cut the hole in the floor the same as your pictures. The problem I have is the shimming, It seems the front has to be shimmed up about 1.5" for the lip to be even on the floor. I can't cut even shims due to the odd placement of the OSB squares they have attached. Could you let me know how you went about installing your pan? I would appreciate any input you could provide.
> 
> Scott


Groove after tiling and caulk, also view from below.


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## ChrisDIY

Recessed vanity cabinet with mirror


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## ChrisDIY

Came home to find one of the Brasscraft "Push-Connect" fittings was leaking. Pushed it some more and it "appeared" to stop. Will need to keep eye on it.

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## javagirl500

I am so envious of your bath! Mine would fit in your shower.


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## ChrisDIY

javagirl500 said:


> I am so envious of your bath! Mine would fit in your shower.


Thanks! Are you referring to the planned master shower?

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## ChrisDIY

Came home to find a small lake in the hall bathroom. The Push-Connect fitting was leaking worse! Had to shut off water to go buy a new one in the morning. Go figure it had been on the pipe for months, even before I started tiling. For future reference once they are placed they cannot be removed and reused.?.?.?

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## ChrisDIY

So I am now in a battle with Alpine Home Air regarding the issues we are having with the two Rinnai units. Here recently the right and only unit in service (why only one I'll get to in a moment) is not starting and/or is not running continuously like it was. To me that should be enough. However suddenly the install is being brought into question. The flow rate on the front of the unit, press up arrow for 2 seconds then press and hold the on/off button shows 0.5 with a single faucet on hot water only. The water softener is showing 1.1 gpm and the iron filter is showing 1.2 gpm. To me that's a red flag something isn't right. I am being told by David their tech guy that the rates from the two devices could be wrong or their could be "back-pressure" causing the difference. 

So it dawned on me to just reverse the situation in the house and run the left unit although it makes a horrible noise so I normally leave it off. Surprise, surprise the same faucet shows 1.0 gpm on the front of the left unit. I don't care how it's piped flow is flow, the right unit isn't reading right. So I will need to call Rinnai and see how much info they can give me on how their units detects flow without them saying "call for service."

If I have time I may try waving a magnet in front of it and see if it says there is flow, then I know there is possibly a "pinwheel" type device inside needing replacement.


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## ChrisDIY

An update on the house. Hall bath is complete with the exception of the rain shower head and the glass shower door. We have found a unique design and I will be talking company about feasibility.

With the need for a support structure beneath the Tulikivi wood stove, we may move toward an "add-on" wood furnace and put it in the basement. This will simplify the chimney install as the kitchen will require major modification with a transition through the attic. With 13+ acres of woods need to have something.

Will need to research and get advice on forced air add on unit recommendations.

http://www.charmaster.com/wood.html

http://www.vogelzang.com/browse.cfm/noresman-add-on-furnace/4,12.html

https://www.usstove.com/index.php?route=cms/article&path=2&article_id=2


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## ChrisDIY

In my latest post I mentioned adding solenoid valves to drain the house in case of a power outage. Since I have no idea how long it will take our house to drop below freezing in the interior it is probably a very good idea. Due to exceptionally high generator cost we may be forced into getting one that will only cover refrigerator, microwave, well pump, tankless and maybe one hydronic air-handler. This would leave larger portion of the house without heat. Until we get second hydronic air-handler and third tankless heater. Getting both HVAC on same circuit is a wiring nightmare. This type of generator is also manual and if we are out of town house could sit for a few days.

My thought is add the third tankless on the same circuit as the other two. Run new line from "generator" panel to new hydronic air-handler.

Hopefully a essential circuit panel genset isn't as costly. Then again if a wood stove costs $4,000 does heating cost savings outweigh possibility of a long term power outage? Why does a house IN THE WOODS not have a fireplace???


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## ChrisDIY

Installed single-double oven this past weekend thanks to Art my electrician for all he has done.

So far seems like a very good idea, can't see needing to put anything in it larger than the bottom oven

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## ChrisDIY

Meeting today with one of the local landscape suppliers to help with getting the retaining wall around walk out door done properly. I was hoping I could do it without removing so much earth but it looks like it cannot be avoided.


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## CoconutPete

What do you think of the Kohler pedestal sink? Besides the PITA install I mean. I'm considering the same one for my bath.


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## ChrisDIY

Install of sink is not easy but have no complaints otherwise. Lead time can be an issue so don't need one in a hurry. The length of bolt protruding from wall in instructions is wrong!!! Needs to be more sticking out.

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## ChrisDIY

Fridge has been purchased and should be delivered Saturday. Now to figure out the wood stove situation.

We are now using the hall bath as our main bathroom. Things I have learned from install:

1. Insulate the pipes from the valve to the body sprays and shower heads.
2. Make sure to reinforce both sides of the opening even though specs call for side only with hinge.
3. Getting a slight pulsing in main shower head when body sprays are on. Not sure if this is "water hammer" or an issue with Kohler valve. Flow is only 5.8 gpm.


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## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> Hopefully a essential circuit panel genset isn't as costly. Then again if a wood stove costs $4,000 does heating cost savings outweigh possibility of a long term power outage? Why does a house IN THE WOODS not have a fireplace???


Hi Chris:

$4,000 for a wood stove??? It might be a good idea if you looked around a bit more. We have three perfectly serviceable wood stoves here, two we bought new, the third was from my Mum's place and was as good as new.

The most expensive was $355.00. Admittedly that was a few years ago, but I have seen similar stoves locally still in the $6-700 range.

If you are thinking about a generator to run things in the event of a power failure, why not consider solar panels and a battery bank? The cost of new state-of-the-art panels has plummeted in the last couple of years. That along with a small generator - perhaps the Honda 2000 for example - should get you through any blackouts. Not to mention the permanent reduction in your electricity bill.


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## ChrisDIY

cocobolo said:


> Hi Chris:
> 
> $4,000 for a wood stove??? It might be a good idea if you looked around a bit more. We have three perfectly serviceable wood stoves here, two we bought new, the third was from my Mum's place and was as good as new.
> 
> The most expensive was $355.00. Admittedly that was a few years ago, but I have seen similar stoves locally still in the $6-700 range.
> 
> If you are thinking about a generator to run things in the event of a power failure, why not consider solar panels and a battery bank? The cost of new state-of-the-art panels has plummeted in the last couple of years. That along with a small generator - perhaps the Honda 2000 for example - should get you through any blackouts. Not to mention the permanent reduction in your electricity bill.


I will look into it! Especially if the batteries can be stored in our rather large crawlspace. I read somewhere that crawlspace should be empty for thermal reasons? I would need to power a well pump, tankless water heater, fridge, air handler, microwave and bathroom lighting. Then see how many watt hours that would be. Power outage in Indiana is almost always weather related!


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## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> I will look into it! Especially if the batteries can be stored in our rather large crawlspace. I read somewhere that crawlspace should be empty for thermal reasons? I would need to power a well pump, tankless water heater, fridge, air handler, microwave and bathroom lighting. Then see how many watt hours that would be. Power outage in Indiana is almost always weather related!


It doesn't take too long to learn about what the big power draws are, and you do need to be very careful about how much draw you have on a battery bank at any given time.
If the tankless water heater runs on either natural gas or propane, it will use almost nothing in the way of electricity.
The microwave is a big draw, but it only runs for a short stretches usually.
Your air handler I know nothing about, and either CFL or low wattage LED's consume very little.


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## BigJim

ChrisDIY said:


> I will look into it! Especially if the batteries can be stored in our rather large crawlspace. I read somewhere that crawlspace should be empty for thermal reasons? I would need to power a well pump, tankless water heater, fridge, air handler, microwave and bathroom lighting. Then see how many watt hours that would be. Power outage in Indiana is almost always weather related!


If those batteries are like a car battery, you might not want to store them in your crawl space as they give off Hydrogen gas when being charged and discharged. Hydrogen gas will for sure explode, I know this first hand and it don't feel good in the face.


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## cocobolo

jiju1943 said:


> If those batteries are like a car battery, you might not want to store them in your crawl space as they give off Hydrogen gas when being charged and discharged. Hydrogen gas will for sure explode, I know this first hand and it don't feel good in the face.


Jim, what we routinely do is to make an enclosure where the batteries are. A "battery box" if you will. We vent that outside which prevents the problem.

I expect you are speaking of an automotive battery, which is charged with a high rate alternator, many times they are over 100 amps. That's a big charge. Both the batteries and chargers for solar systems are different, and the hydrogen gas potential is considerably less.

The bulk of the hydrogen gas is made when they are being charged at a high rate via some sort of charger. Usually when being charged by the solar panel the charge rate is much lower which alleviates the hydrogen gas problem.

In any event, the hydrogen still needs a source of ignition in the form of either a strong spark or open flame.

The job I'm doing now at the cabin is having the box built right now, and it is being vented through a 2" plastic pipe underneath the cabin. Because hydrogen gas wants to rise, we are installing a muffin fan in the top of the box to force the gas out through the bottom.

The batteries in question are right up against the wall where the propane fridge sits. This provides an open flame which provides for the potential of an explosion. Since we would rather not have one of those little inconveniences, we are venting the box under pressure.

I will put up a pic of the process on my thread as it proceeds.


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## Snav

I like your work so far - it's looking awesome.


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## ChrisDIY

cocobolo said:


> Jim, what we routinely do is to make an enclosure where the batteries are...
> 
> I will put up a pic of the process on my thread as it proceeds.


If I used the online calculator correctly to do a 1:1 switch from generator to battery I would need 3,160 Ah? At 48V I am not sure how many batteries that would be since you have to figure on series and parallel portions. I would need to create a spreadsheet. but from rough calculations a generator is cheaper. Seems like a better idea would be to have a bank that would work for a few hours.

How ironic, as I was beginning to think about building an un-interruptible power supply to go along with the generator. Switching mechanism do they exist?


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## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> If I used the online calculator correctly to do a 1:1 switch from generator to battery I would need 3,160 Ah? At 48V I am not sure how many batteries that would be since you have to figure on series and parallel portions. I would need to create a spreadsheet.


3,160 amp hours? What would that run and for how long. That is huge consumption. Would that by any chance be watt hours?


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## cocobolo

ChrisDIY said:


> How ironic, as I was beginning to think about building an un-interruptible power supply to go along with the generator. Switching mechanism do they exist?


Sorry...I didn't spot this question before.

Yes, fully automatic switching and starting systems are available.

I suggest you visit the Homepower website, there is everything you would ever want to know about the subject. I think it's www.homepower.com


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## ChrisDIY

Started excavation for retaining wall. Having trouble getting posts out of ground, tractor break out force seems not to be strong enough? Unless I am doing it wrong?

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## shumakerscott

Chris, I'm having trouble following your project. Not enough pic's with descriptions. It went from bathroom to digging outside. What was in this location before? Need a little more information to see the complete picture. Thanks, dorf dude...


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## ChrisDIY

Before pictures, see also pictures in very first post. I am basically doing the entire house over, by myself. Used a chain connected to my loader. Tried to pull up vertically, the first two posts snapped off at the ground. I do not see any cement. Originally owner put up this post and OSB retaining wall which finally fell over so far had to interrupt my interior projects to address. Final block wall will turn and meet vertical portion of front porch.

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## shumakerscott

ChrisDIY said:


> Before pictures, see also pictures in very first post. I am basically doing the entire house over, by myself. Used a chain connected to my loader. Tried to pull up vertically, the first two posts snapped off at the ground. I do not see any cement. Originally owner put up this post and OSB retaining wall which finally fell over so far had to interrupt my interior projects to address. Final block wall will turn and meet vertical portion of front porch.
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


That is Ugly!:yes: I know I don't need to say it but waterproof and add drainage. More pic's is always better:thumbup: dorf dude


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## BigJim

If you still have a post that is hard to pull up try this: Take a chain and hook as close to the bottom of post as possible, us an old car tire standing against the post with the chain laying over the tire, when you pull the chain it should pull the post up out of the ground.


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## cocobolo

The old guys always have the answers, don't they Jim! :thumbsup:


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## CoconutPete

WOW! "OSB Retaining wall" - seems like an oxymoron doesn't it.


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## gma2rjc

ChrisDIY said:


> Originally owner put up this post and OSB retaining wall which finally fell over so far had to interrupt my interior projects to address.


Hmm. Now I'm thinking that 'paving' my driveway, patio and walkway with OSB isn't going to be such a good idea. 

:jester:


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## ChrisDIY

jiju1943 said:


> If you still have a post that is hard to pull up try this: Take a chain and hook as close to the bottom of post as possible, us an old car tire standing against the post with the chain laying over the tire, when you pull the chain it should pull the post up out of the ground.


Wow! Thanks! Will get a hold of an old tire and try this. Raining now so will need to wait till things dry out.


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## BigJim

I forgot to say the tire needs to be on the rim, flat or not it should work. Just don't back up and make a running jerk, there is no telling where that post may go. 

I saw a young guy pull a pine tree out of the ground with a running jerk using a nylon rope and the tree turned into a rocket after it tore up his tail gate and top of his cab. He wasn't using a tire but a straight jerk, but the post could go airborne with a running jerk.


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## ChrisDIY

jiju1943 said:


> I forgot to say the tire needs to be on the rim, flat or not it should work. Just don't back up and make a running jerk, there is no telling where that post may go.
> 
> I saw a young guy pull a pine tree out of the ground with a running jerk using a nylon rope and the tree turned into a rocket after it tore up his tail gate and top of his cab. He wasn't using a tire but a straight jerk, but the post could go airborne with a running jerk.


Still raining and wet, given that I have a 12 post deck that could have easily been done with 4, these posts could be as deep as 4-8 feet in the ground. Given lumber comes in 10', 12' and 14' About 6' is sticking out of the ground.  I need to check strength of my chain. I am going to need a pretty substantial size diameter tire.


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## ChrisDIY

Still a bit damp and some muddy spots, but had to get going. Doing things the old fashioned way. Dug down about 1.5 feet, wrapped chain and it pulled out. First post was just stick in ground about 4 feet. Second post is set in concrete. We will see how this one goes.

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## ChrisDIY

Second post went well, got a lower resolution picture.

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## ChrisDIY

Third post was a total of 3.5' in ground with bottom 2' in concrete. Have a bad feeling about last two, as they are larger posts. Done for the day, worn out.

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## ChrisDIY

The last post was removed today. Post came out without all of the concrete, so broke it apart. Leveled the ground in preparation for the base stone. Will be working until dark Friday getting stone level.

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## ChrisDIY

Started retaining wall yesterday. I have now completed my first step up excavation. Filled with #53 stone.









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## ChrisDIY

Overall progress, first level of block gets Geo-Grid. Then every other course.



















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## ChrisDIY

Review of Allan Block Gravity Wall so far.

I can only imagine if this block was solid, its quite heavy with a hollow core. Stock up on Ibuprofen. Recommendation, spend a lot of time leveling the #53 stone so only minor adjustments would need to be made to the block. I used a string, next time I am going to rent a laser level. Now that I have the Geo-Grid I will only excavate its width plus a foot.

I am finding the "step up" in the curve to be challenging. If you are doing curves, rent a reversible plate compactor. This is what I am going to get for completion. I have three courses in place up to the step, will be filling and back-filling next.


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## ChrisDIY

Rain, rain go away. Come back another day.

Since it is raining, will try and figure out some math.

Rinnai 75LSi, and master shower.

In order to get a shower temperature based on 103 degrees I will roughly need 3 gallons of hot water for every gallon of cold. In order to flow at 18 gpm would this mean 13.5 gallons per minute would need to be hot and 4.5 gallons cold?

My average water temp from well is 50 degrees so in order to get 120 degree water I need a delta rise of 70 degrees. If I am reading this chart correctly I can only have a maximum flow of 4.5 gpm within each unit before flow restriction starts or 9 gpm max.? So does this mean I cannot exceed 12 gpm in shower without needing an additional Rinnai 75LSi in manifold? Which will be the 13.5 gpm I would need?

So if I am calculating this correctly, total gpm of all shower heads combined shouldn't exceed 12 gpm without having reduced output from individual shower heads in a perfect world.

Planning on this arrangement









Each shower head has max flow rate of 2.5 gpm so would need 22.5 gpm. The default cycle program only has three shower heads on at once so should be Ok?


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## ChrisDIY

Up to the fifth course, this is brutal. Each block weighs 75 lbs. even with hollow core.

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## ChrisDIY

Can't catch a break, got a freak snow storm Tuesday putting 3"-4" on the ground. Rain in the forecast for Sunday and Monday. This wall may not get completed until Spring. 

Will it ever dry? I'm guessing compacting soil that contains ice is a bad idea.

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## ChrisDIY

Picture of finished kitchen. Sorry for delay.









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## ChrisDIY

Another









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## Snav

Wow - looking good there. Excellent work on the Kitchen! :thumbsup:


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## ChrisDIY

Had a chance to use a 48 x 60 shower. May have to rethink the master shower a bit. Even after water was running a while air still felt cool. As large as it is designed will always need steam to run. 
:sad:

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## ChrisDIY

Forgot to post a picture of where I had to leave off working on retaining wall. With all the wet weather have no idea when this will get finished. Have to backfill the fifth course, then run course six and cap to finish.









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## shumakerscott

ChrisDIY said:


> Had a chance to use a 48 x 60 shower. May have to rethink the master shower a bit. Even after water was running a while air still felt cool. As large as it is designed will always need steam to run.
> :sad:
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Vibrant using Android DIY Chatroom


What about an infrared heat light? dorf dude...


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## ChrisDIY

shumakerscott said:


> What about an infrared heat light? dorf dude...


I plan on putting a dual lamp outside shower. To me it was cool "in" the shower. When you stepped out of the water stream. Seems like steam unit would always have to be on? Well maybe with a steam shower door it may warm up compared to standard door?


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## ChrisDIY

Now that Spring is around the corner it's time to list projects for this year.

1. Finish retaining wall
2. Build support for heat pump that is attached to the house (see #3)
3. Increase water pipe size through foundation wall, fixing leak in process. Pipe entrance is under current support for heat pump. Driest period of year late July.
4. Over seed lawn
5. Till under fence row and plant wildflower seeds.
6. Install automatic transfer switch
7. Install manual transfer switch and outdoor connection. Second generator is "way" down the line...
8. Buck all the downed trees (June)
9. Rough plumbing work for master bath, close up walls

That's at least 9+ Wednesdays accounted for!

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## ChrisDIY

Up to the 6th and final course on retaining wall. Will finish most of the backfill tomorrow. Will top off with soil that will be trucked in this week.

Picture at 5th course complete.









Application of "Geo-Grid" before sixth course









Will need to rent a brick saw to cut top caps along with topsoil placement.

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## ChrisDIY

Been a while since I worked indoors. Spent today removing some "boxed-in" plumbing that was done previously. See post #142 for reference as to how it looked.


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## ChrisDIY

I decided not to remove all the insulation in the attic and bring the portion in our pantry above the ceiling. So we are stuck with the vent pipe there. Next I have to remove the 15A circuit and reroute it.


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## ChrisDIY

We had the transfer switch installed today! One more step to go! This will require some thought. Given the fact that the sewer line was hit by the propane installers with a trencher I am trying to keep all the lines above ground. I am thinking there isn't a reason power inside conduit cannot be above ground as well as solid gas line (iron).


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## ChrisDIY

Began fabrication of dining table, have to rip top in two directions. Completed test cut for one of the short cuts, will do both end cuts tomorrow.

Feeling a little uneasy about the long rip...

Finished caps on retaining wall, ready to order soil.

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## ChrisDIY

Three rips completed successfully!











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## ChrisDIY

Working on apron and legs. Top is turned over covered in plastic 









and is working as temporary work surface.

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## coderguy

Pics of finished retaining wall? It looked really good in progress.


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## ChrisDIY

I keep having issues uploading from phone. Will close in after soil is placed (on right). Once I have the other side done will place #53 stone and complete paver walkway down to door.









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## coderguy

That looks really clean, I look forward to seeing it completely finished.


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## ChrisDIY

coderguy said:


> That looks really clean, I look forward to seeing it completely finished.


The mound of soil in front and to the right has to be removed, probably tomorrow so to be pitched away for drainage.


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## ChrisDIY

End assemblies complete the more difficult task of attaching to long aprons tonight. I don't have clamps this long so will be trying the ones that use black iron pipe...


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## ChrisDIY

Use of pipe clamps turned out to be difficult (heavy) so needed some help from wife

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## ChrisDIY

Glued.









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## ChrisDIY

Finished table in kitchen, now chairs, uh not going to make them, LOL...:laughing:









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## ChrisDIY

For the last few weeks there had been water accumulating under the pressure tank, being summer I wrote it off to condensation, earlier this week I looked close and saw dripping. At first I thought the gauge had failed, last night I saw the crack!!! : angry:

So removed and headed to get replacement.









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## ChrisDIY

Completed in 4 hours and 15 minutes including trip to Lowe's









Took this opportunity to raise the tank up since sitting that close to the floor didn't work well for draining tank. At some point will be getting all new pressure tanks (3) and new well pump.

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## SeanB

O M G

I thought I was a DIYer..... Where is the bow smiley? :notworthy:

Great work man.


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## ChrisDIY

Thanks I really appreciate it!


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## ChrisDIY

Well we don't have cable, but I am on vacation and at hotel watching Holmes Inspection. Amazing what some homeowners can do but any home inspector worth their weight in salt should never miss. This family bought house that for sure shouldn't have with proper inspection. Can't wait to see confrontation between Mike and inspector. Wait a minute do we have vents on roof?


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## ChrisDIY

OH No, we don't! Well need to look for ridge vent, man I hate roofs.

Will also need to truly determine where bathroom fan terminates.


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## CoconutPete

ChrisDIY said:


> Can't wait to see confrontation between Mike and inspector.


Unfortunately they never do that. It would be AWESOME though if he actually went and confronted the inspector and asked about their "work".

On his old show "Holmes on Homes" he used to go and confront the crappy contractors sometimes, it was quite hillarious. I remember one episode where a cabinet place just never delivered their cabinets - he actually went to their store and stood there yelling "It's been 3 months and all you do is ignore my phone calls, not sure what I'm doing wrong" and you could see customers running away". You could never get away with that in the states since you'd get sued for god knows what but he show is Canadian - i'm not sure why they got away from that.


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## ChrisDIY

CoconutPete said:


> Unfortunately they never do that. It would be AWESOME though if he actually went and confronted the inspector and asked about their "work".
> 
> On his old show "Holmes on Homes" he used to go and confront the crappy contractors sometimes, it was quite hillarious. I remember one episode where a cabinet place just never delivered their cabinets - he actually went to their store and stood there yelling "It's been 3 months and all you do is ignore my phone calls, not sure what I'm doing wrong" and you could see customers running away". You could never get away with that in the states since you'd get sued for god knows what but he show is Canadian - i'm not sure why they got away from that.


Pete,

The amount of open air connections made me feel scared for this family. Owner incorrectly spliced into 220v behind drywall and in attic insulation. Had to have been at least 50 -100 open air connections hidden from sight.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Gutter has finally been repaired! On to the trenching to bury gutter drain pipes.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Working on mud room floor, using a two size tile pattern. Should be finished laying tile today. Will grout by Friday.









Had a chance to use my new oscillating saw to cut door casings, went really smooth. The floor in the foyer will need to be re-done too, will install a nice threshold between the two rooms.

--Chris

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----------



## shadytrake

Holy Crap! Do you live on energy drinks?!? Your "project" reminds me of the movie "The Money Pit." LOL. I'm sure you are saving a ton by DIY and you are certainly very handy. Nice job on the kitchen. The master bath plans look really cool.


----------



## ChrisDIY

shadytrake said:


> Holy Crap! Do you live on energy drinks?!? Your "project" reminds me of the movie "The Money Pit." LOL. I'm sure you are saving a ton by DIY and you are certainly very handy. Nice job on the kitchen. The master bath plans look really cool.


I am putting in some pretty high end stuff and this house was over-improved for the area, even though we got it as a foreclosure.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Waited 3 hours for generator only to have truck arrive with a driver with no controller for the lift gate. So now we wait for contact for another attempt. Totally lame. USF Holland is trifling.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Being pressed for time decided to use sprayer to paint molding. Boy this so much easier, except for bugs that suddenly decide to land on wet work. I painted five 8' base and eight 8' door casing in an hour including set up and clean up. I wish I had used it to paint table legs.









Will take some pictures Friday after I put them in place.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Spent this past Wednesday getting generator set in place for electrician today.









Took most of this morning and afternoon for us to get the electrical all ran. Now the long wait for the propane company to come out.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Elected to run both electrical and propane "above" ground after thee septic drain line was hit in same area when propane was first put in. Thus the support.









Will need to place more gravel on the exhaust side of unit.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Can't seem to get an answer from propane company on the line, what material and does it have to be buried. I am just fearful they will hit the septic line again! I have a heavy pipe rod maybe line can be located that way?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Propane company came out today, everything they can do involves trenching so on to the black pipe. Will need to find the appropriate paint for it.

Also, worked on getting the downspouts drained under the retaining wall and future over sidewalk. Will post a picture of this tomorrow.


----------



## ChrisDIY

As promised pictures of drain. I excavated enough to replace with topsoil to grade. I have one little hump too remove.











I dug a trench underneath the pipe and compacted #53 some here. May have been overkill, but don't want any issues.











The entire drain will be underground once I have upper retaining wall in place.











On to the propane and painting.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Resuming trench for retaining wall, very difficult since out had been so dry. Soaking then digging...


----------



## ChrisDIY

After three more hours today finished trench, now to find the end of my drain.


----------



## shadytrake

Looking good.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Final excavation!


----------



## ChrisDIY

This gas line is giving me the flux. I keep forgetting the Golden Rule. Do plumbing BEFORE electrical.

Ordered more block today so I can resume with the wall next week.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Generator installation complete! Just a few minor things like painting the gas line and gravel at exhaust end, to do.

View attachment 55670


----------



## ChrisDIY

I should have known... Painting the babies room I thought would be easy. Why is the carpet all the way under the drywall?


----------



## shumakerscott

Those blocks sure look nice. I like the way they lock together. What do they cost each? I'm doing a wall right now too. Keep up the great work:thumbup:. dorf dude...


----------



## ChrisDIY

shumakerscott said:


> Those blocks sure look nice. I like the way they lock together. What do they cost each? I'm doing a wall right now too. Keep up the great work:thumbup:. dorf dude...


They are called Allan Block AB Classic. Roughly $7 each weighs 75 lbs each.


----------



## ChrisDIY

We have slowly seen our hot water diminish. After some tinkering have determined that the thermostatic mixing valve is going bad. Our kitchen faucet normally would kick on tankless, but now it won't. Did experiment and turned cold off. Water will not get any hotter than 110° with the thermostatic mixing valve all the way up. Which is supposed to be 145°. Will be ordering replacement. Both tankless units are producing their set temp of 150°.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

I guess having this issue prompted reading some reviews so may have solution to another issue. Apparently, the mixing valve will only flow MAX 3.9 gpm per side. In order for the planned shower to work I will need to put in *two* mixing valves "in parallel" in order to get higher flow rate and also may alleviate the water hammer. Would not have know this without reading review from a buyer.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Turned the tankless temperature down from 150° to 120° and there is some improvement in flow. Flow rate was 0.7 gpm with lower temp went up to 1.1 gpm

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----------



## Fishinbo

Whew! That seemed like a lot of work! Looking good, so far.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Fishinbo said:


> Whew! That seemed like a lot of work! Looking good, so far.


Yep, have to rehab/remodel whole house one room at a time!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Been a long time since my last post. Babies room is finished in time for our new arrival born October 3rd.










I feel bad... We have been having this ongoing problem with a hydrogen sulfide smell isolated to hall bathroom sink. I sanitized well and all plumbing numerous times to no avail. Then I made unfortunate discovery. I had forgotten that I filled water heaters with water back in 2009. Although valves were closed bacteria had produced enough gas to leak through ball valve. I spent all day Saturday taking out water heaters and associated plumbing. Valve at bottom of heater was broken so could not drain, so had fun moving 400 lbs. by myself.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

When I disconnected hot water hose on one heater a mucus like slime oozed out with a lot of gas. Then black water. Found the problem : sad:











I see they haven't fixed the photo in portrait posting issue...

--Chris

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----------



## REDRUM

ChrisDIY said:


>


if you havent done this yet, you could have your shower glass guy drill 2 holes in the shower and back to back mirrors and use standoffs like








to mount the mirrors outside the shower....

cool idea by the way


----------



## ChrisDIY

REDRUM said:


> if you havent done this yet, you could have your shower glass guy drill 2 holes in the shower and back to back mirrors and use standoffs like
> to mount the mirrors outside the shower....
> 
> cool idea by the way


Decided on a plan a little later on. Running all new drain pipe was more than I am willing to do.

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----------



## JulieB

I looked through each page of your thread. You are amazing. :thumbsup:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Resuming work! Our daughter is now two months old so starting back up on master bath/closet/bedroom. Ceiling will need a complex framing due to vent and can lights.


----------



## ChrisDIY

So who would have thought, those cheap filters are actually better than those "allergen" pleated filters.

Having trouble finding tile to match wife's "inspiration" room. That uses Thassos marble. I do wonder with Greece's economic problems, is it a risky proposition anyway. It's marble and not oil... Will probably post question in tile forum. I want to also make an edge in tile and not sure how to do it so it won't fail.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Been a while since I made an entry. We had some very cold days recently and it became apparent that an outage during cold months would leave the house too cold to do the manual second generator. Will start plan to install second ATS.

Shower design is turning out to be tougher that initially thought. Will need to make some sacrifices. Steam showers call for a pitch to ceiling but after drawing my lines out this is going to look weird. Since we will be using as shower 95% of the time and the walls of the soffit are vertical anyway there is no way to avoid cold drips. Somehow would have to make a lip to carry water away from the vertical soffit walls. Seems that would create point of grout failure.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

The two thermostatic valves have been taken out. The design of the Hydronic heat doesn't work well with a multi unit install with low flow and high flow requirements. No water hammer and all faucets now work fine. For the first time we actually have lukewarm water.

View attachment 65123


Just too many incompatible components. First being the WaterSense faucets. Second tankless pressure drop to maintain water temp. Lastly, bath design involving multiple simultaneous water fixtures.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Been working steady on master shower. First time using PEX. Much easier to use, should have been using it earlier.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Dropping soffit for shower rain panel was hard work for only 5 inches! Have the outside done will complete inside supports next.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Rough work for all the shower heads and body sprays compete. Need to connect PEX into valvein basement.









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----------



## ChrisDIY

This is awful!!! :furious: One of the six unions Cello brand is stripped, I am not confident the other five will not leak. I now have to do a leak test BEFORE I do the flood test. Don't buy cheap Cello brand made in China.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished plumbing connections at the valve. Bought all new unions, Watts brand, better made but still from China.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Installed the Pre-Pitch, now the mud


----------



## ChrisDIY

Oh no! Will be renting a cement mixer for the shower pan, mixing in a box too much work


----------



## Gary in WA

Keep it safe, don't forget the fire-blocking, *#12;* http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/

Gary


----------



## ChrisDIY

Gary in WA said:


> Keep it safe, don't forget the fire-blocking, #12; http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/
> 
> Gary


I just put in a new wall within the existing. Does this mean it wasn't in the original wall?

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----------



## ChrisDIY

I have been using this stuff for penetrations.

Fomo Fireblock


----------



## Gary in WA

Anytime you lower the ceiling below the single/double top plate, you need additional fire-blocking in connecting walls to stop fire from getting above the new ceiling, unless the lid is drywalled. Read a few pages in that link. Also, pp. 5, here: http://www.codecheck.com/cc/ccimages/PDFs/CCB3_sample.pdf

Gary

Gary


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ok, got it thanks! Will use the unfaced insulation. Will help with the heat loss in the water lines leading to body sprays and shower head incidentally.

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----------



## wkearney99

Don't forget to put a little slope under the ceiling! You want the condensation to be able to slide off it instead of dripping.


----------



## ChrisDIY

wkearney99 said:


> Don't forget to put a little slope under the ceiling! You want the condensation to be able to slide off it instead of dripping.


I have as much slope as can be done the rain panel has to be level.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Wow, its been so long since I have made a post that I am on page 2. Putting in cement board is taking a lot longer than anticipated. I do have 4 body sprays shower head, two speakers, and the control to all be roughed in.

Insert photo


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finally to the quick pitch setup step. Well be doing the mud Saturday.


----------



## ChrisDIY

app still can't figure out portrait orientation...this is upside down? Grumble...


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ok, let's try using PC


----------



## ChrisDIY

Deck mud pre-mixed and ready for water. Last bag of sand was a little damp not sure if it will mess









things up so will dry mix and use this first tomorrow.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Now THAT was a two person job! Took me almost three hours between mixing, filling and levelling. Not to mention walking from the garage to the shower with a 5 gallon bucket filled with deck mud.


----------



## 123pugsy

Looks good Chris.

Is that spider shaped rail thingy a guide for your dry pack? That is dry pack, right?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Yes it's the Quick-Pitch by Mark-E Industries. Got mine on Amazon. They have a whole system.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished application of Hydro Ban. Next step tiling. Ceiling then walls.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good!! :thumbsup:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Since I am a person who always plans ahead I realized I made a critical omission. I was looking at the LED driver and realized they come in either 20 watts, 60 watts or 6 x 50 watt taps. I only ran one pair of wires but will need to run another pair. The planned lighting will be 90 watts. Thank God!

This would have been a costly thing to fix later!

Since I will have 4 taps open I have to see if there is another location in bathroom I want to put another set of LED strips that will be on same switch.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished cutting ceiling soffit pieces ready for dry fit. Have a pretty bad cold so not able to work on things. I have two major things to work out. Making sure I have adequate overlap for the rain panel and also that the final thickness will be sufficient. Planning on a 1/4-3/8-1/4 trowel.









It's pretty tough working and measuring upside down. I also hope my mortar is sticky enough to hold this tile up until I can get a prop underneath.


I'm getting there...

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Introducing the clearly not approved upside-down Chris DIY-Raimondi ceiling levelling technique. 

That was tough! One thing I will need to keep in mind is making mortar a tad bit drier it seemed a little soupy and didn't stay up when applying although this may be my experience level too. Mixed at middle of ratio on bag.


----------



## wkearney99

Best advice I got regarding ceiling tiling was 1) get someone else to do it, 2) wear a hat, 3) keep your mouth closed (because thinset tastes terrible). I didn't have to support the 12x12's I put up, mainly because I didn't make the thinset too thin and I back-buttered them properly. The grooves from a notched trowel help form a bit of a suction as it squishes. At least that's how it worked for me.

Just be sure to double and then triple-check that you've gotten all the haze off the tiles. Those last little bit of it will drive you crazy a month from now... It's even less fun using acid to get that off there, above all the other nice work below.


----------



## ChrisDIY

wkearney99 said:


> 3) keep your mouth closed (because thinset tastes terrible)...
> 
> ...


LOL, funny you should say that, missed my mouth by inches!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Tried in the rain panel and it fits perfectly! Whoo Hoo!

Next step is tiling the bottom of the recessed area or the "real ceiling" around my soffit.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Installing bench and anchors are stripping cement board. Ran out and bought a different style that doesn't require anchor to turn to seat


----------



## ChrisDIY

Bench installed ready for mud!


----------



## 747

Your kicking ass and taking names Chris. Great job so far.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished shower bench and shelf. Next step tiling!


----------



## ChrisDIY

I'm planning on using 24" x 24" tile (cut to size) for the top of bench so there are only two grout lines. I'll probably offset a little so grout lines on wall won't line up to them.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Used Laticrete platinum 254 today and it is very different from Mapei thinset mortar. Will take some getting used to. Stuff is real sticky for starters which I guess is a plus. I am going to have to mix in small batches as it also seems to set up at a pro installer rate, LOL. I may actually get somebody to help me, first wall has the body spray cuts to make.

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----------



## ChrisDIY

One thing that should make tiling go faster is that the tile I am using has an adhesive plastic on the front for protection. So I can mark lines and not worry about it being permanent. :thumbup:

I am using DeWalt tile blade at the moment but it leaves very tiny chips along the cut edge, even if I cut slowly. I used the original edge for the front of bench since this could irritate the back of our legs. I think all the other cuts on outside corners won't matter.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ceiling and soffit completed. Grout and matching color sanded caulk. On to the walls. First wall has all the body sprays, so I have to cut and go! I am thinking of making cardboard cut outs of the opening size to save time.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I had some left over acrylic so I made myself some cutout templates. Saved a lot of time. Came in handy since I had to back butter almost all of the tiles since I am using the levelling system.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Here is the first of the four walls completed. This was the hardest with all the cutouts. Not sure how picture will look.


----------



## ChrisDIY

For those people reading my project showcase, I highly recommend getting a 3 plane laser level. I can't believe I have done so much in this house without one! Tomorrow I will be tiling the opposite wall from the one completed, without a laser level I am sure my back wall would not line up to both sides. 

I have not set it up to check my ceiling framing but I am guessing it will be off. So I will need to use laser to shim it level. Our design calls for mosaic tile at the top and if it is off it will show with an uneven grout line at the ceiling. Another useful tool is the Fast cap "Third Hand HD." They make an excellent laser attachment for it as well. It's the red pole in the photos.

Chris

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----------



## ChrisDIY

Had to stop tiling yesterday. For some reason the Raimondi Krick Krock levelling and screed started slipping under the weight of the tile. I got 4 rows of tile up when I realized something was wrong. I will now have to correct the shift in the the next two to three rows tomorrow. I am not sure what caused this since it worked fine for the front wall. Mixed mortar exactly the same... I do need to figure out what screed is supposed to be used since the one I have is 4" wide and Krick Krock looks like it would work best with something around 2"


----------



## ChrisDIY

Deciding to err on the side of caution so will stop here on back wall. The slide down on the left wall is obvious when laser line is on and the misalignment becomes noticeable.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Completed tiling of the back wall. I'll tile underneath the bench after the floor is tiled. One wall to go. I'm thinking I will need to do the inside of the door opening first then the wall. 45° bevel cut all the way around. Same as the front edge of bench. 

In the home stretch, after the shower is tiled can close all the remaining walls, remove plastic film from the tiles then grout.


----------



## ChrisDIY

This was very tricky, good thing I purchased the DeWalt wet saw which you can plunge cut at 45°.


----------



## ChrisDIY

DeWalt 24000S

Received a few negative comments about it from local tile supply stores. It was well worth it for me after those cuts!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Completed the lower portion of the hinge side of the tiling. I need to cut the top 90 degree cut like the opposite side tonight. I have to be careful knocking the leveling clips out!

I don't know why this program rotates some pictures but not others...?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Made sure my threshold will be level.


----------



## ChrisDIY

FINALLY!

I've had enough dry days to work on retaining wall, top tier base course completed at step up, will post another picture once caps are all on.









Should finish just in time for Fall planting!


----------



## ChrisDIY

The project that started 10/17/2011 is DONE! The retaining wall on the south side of the walk out up to pitch is complete. The DeWalt tile saw didn't cut all the way through so had to use chisel to knock wedge off.























The scoring technique called for marking caps on bottom, I had to transfer the lines to the top since the cut had to be on the top and chisel edge on the bottom.

The cut cap in place.









Now the completed wall!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Another view









Adding soil next week, so back to the bathroom!


----------



## ChrisDIY

I forgot view from the other side.


----------



## Msniki

I love your house! Great find and awesome work. I am waiting to close on my foreclosure home very soon! I cant wait to start my projects.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Completed everything I can do in bathroom until I install the heated floor. I have to have my electrician hook it up.









I also put in header for the pocket doors. Laser line doesn't show up good. Pocket door frames are tomorrow's project!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Just completed final touches on pocket door framing.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Performed the second flood test, this one using all the showerheads with a 1/2" nipple connected. With wide open flow we don't have enough water pressure to run all of them. Hopefully, once the sprays and showerhead are on the water restriction will allow all of them to come on at once.

The shower pan is holding water again with no leaks! So back to closing up the walls.


----------



## wkearney99

what're you supplying with, 1/2" or 3/4" from the water heater & cold lines? I found in order to run more than one 1/2" rain or hand shower together I had to use a 3/4" diverter (fed by 3/4" lines) (it had 1/2" outputs).


----------



## ChrisDIY

wkearney99 said:


> what're you supplying with, 1/2" or 3/4" from the water heater & cold lines? I found in order to run more than one 1/2" rain or hand shower together I had to use a 3/4" diverter (fed by 3/4" lines) (it had 1/2" outputs).


We are on a well, I am still trying to learn the dynamics of this situation. You can get a higher gpm pump if well drawdown is high enough but I am still not sure if that affects anything "after" the pressure tank...? I think I opened every faucet in the house and got 10-11 gpm so moving to a 20 gpm pump would require three pressure tanks. A lot to invest without knowing it will improve things. When well was installed in 2002 well drawdown was 75 gpm.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Now I know why they call it WONDERBOARD!

I wonder why it smells funny
I wonder how you are supposed to score it, scoring tool slides across making no mark, until after a dozen passes
I wonder why it still breaks away from the line I scored 
I wonder why it is so heavy compared to Durock
I wonder which side is which
I just keep wondering...


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ok, I wonder a little less about scoring it, scores only on one side! But now I wonder why it still doesn't snap after a DEEP score?

I'll never use it again, floor ready for heat mesh









Then on to finally closing walls!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Laticrete floor heat laid out, finished embedding it in mortar. Looks funny since I had one bag of grey left and started using white. So no picture of that LOL


----------



## ChrisDIY

Been tiling knew this was going to take forever...









After the Krick Krocks failed miserably switched to string a level and it's working much better!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Just finished tiling the shower floor! That was harder than I thought...









Now on to cutting the base row tomorrow!


C.


----------



## ChrisDIY

All base row pieces cut ready to apply, large format for under the bench.


----------



## avengerki

ChrisDIY said:


> app still can't figure out portrait orientation...this is upside down? Grumble...
> 
> View attachment 70945


From page 25. I always thought the drain was best situated on the ceiling for the shower.:thumbup:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Been working feverishly to get room painted before carpet is installed Tuesday. That includes painting and installing the new bathroom door and the converging pocket doors.


----------



## SuperJETT

I haven't been on the site much but used to read through your thread. I just got caught up, thanks for still posting the updates.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished all the critical wall tile in the bathroom. The shower door is now laser line plumb on both sides. So glass door company should have no issues installing a steam door.

Next finish ceiling then the glass accent tile!

_From 1/20/2011: This is probably the last design tweak I'll do until I get a go ahead on the plumbing rough in. It will take me a month to tile this bathroom... :whistling2:
_
Well, I've been at this now for a lot longer than a month!


----------



## wkearney99

Plumb certainly helps, but what they really want is a consistently flat surface. They can measure and fit just about anything. A wall with a consistent surface that's off-level is better than a level one that uneven. Or so my glass guy mentioned to me. 

I chose to put Silestone quartz around all the shower openings. You're not likely to get more flat that unbroken lengths of the same 3cm material all the way around...

Which doesn't detract from the excellent job you've done thus far. Nice work!


----------



## ChrisDIY

wkearney99 said:


> Plumb certainly helps, but what they really want is a consistently flat surface. They can measure and fit just about anything. A wall with a consistent surface that's off-level is better than a level one that uneven. Or so my glass guy mentioned to me.
> 
> I chose to put Silestone quartz around all the shower openings. You're not likely to get more flat that unbroken lengths of the same 3cm material all the way around...
> 
> Which doesn't detract from the excellent job you've done thus far. Nice work!


THANKS! I'm planning on using my 6' screed to set final tile position, the Raimondi does excellent job removing lippage.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Just laid out accent glass tile for room length of 123" so I know where cuts will land.


----------



## wkearney99

Heh, when you put all this effort into the job it's worth going the extra mile to plan cuts precisely. Nobody else would *ever *notice if something wasn't even, but you'd see it every time...


----------



## ChrisDIY

Sneak Peak!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished tiling the floor. Will be grouting tomorrow. If I can work at a steady pace from now on should be done in about a month with bathroom.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Floor installed and grouted. Accent tile installed and grouted.

Now on to cutting and installing base row and the tiles for shower door opening. Then final caulk and grout.


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finished the base row of tile in the bathroom. Things will speed up now toward completion. I well be cutting the tiles to finisher shower door opening them on to final caulking and grouting.





















I like the tile levelling system but it leaves mortar behind the clips that you can't see but when you break them off mortar has to be cleaned. I have a few areas not sure how to cut out.

Something I would do differently would be to place a clip at the bottom of the row on the ledger board to keep spacing away from wall the same. I have the clips stuck in backwards just to keep grout space even.


----------



## ChrisDIY

In order to clean out the mortar I used my angle grinder with a dry tile saw blade. For future reference I won't tile using grout lines narrower than 1/8" :yes:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Finally!

Something the previous owner did that I need! A 20a GFCI in the garage!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Not sure why, maybe breaker, but it popped while using pressure washer. Maybe I spoke too soon?


----------



## ChrisDIY

Ok, Ok I haven't been working on bathroom. Since Spring is here everything green had shifted my focus till today. 

I have known for a while but finally tackled the move if the blue spruce and planting if the second Asian pear tree.

I rented a tow behind tree spade and transplanted the spruce.









Hopefully it survives in its new location.









We have storms coming in so planted the Asian pear it's place.









The farthest away is actually a four on one apple. All three safely in their "jails" to keep deer from eating them.


----------



## ChrisDIY

For some reason the ability to edit a post from app has disappeared... :huh:


----------



## ChrisDIY

I have officially set the last piece of tile in this bathroom! Pictures to come. Will start the task of getting everything caulked and grouted


----------



## TheEplumber

ChrisDIY said:


> For some reason the ability to edit a post from app has disappeared... :huh:


Yep, there is now a time limit in place.

Awaiting pictures :thumbsup:


----------



## ChrisDIY

Tomorrow, let the caulking begin!


----------



## ChrisDIY

Grouting of shower complete, just a few areas where I was "sold down the road"
with gray mortar I need to cut out.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I've got these in about a dozen places.


----------



## ChrisDIY

I've done it! The tiling and grouting are complete! Tomorrow, final vinegar wash of the tile and moving on to the toilet, window sill, sink cabinet, wall cabinet and sconces.


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## ChrisDIY

All bathroom electrical completed, sink cabinet mounted, installing wall cabinet with mirror tomorrow.

On a sad note opened toilet's box and items broken. Outside box is undamaged so strange to have broken contents.


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## wkearney99

I bought several Robern mirrors. It wasn't until weeks after I'd bought them I discovered one of them wasn't the plain edge I'd ordered, but beveled. Thankfully the supplier swapped it out, but it did take some wrangling. Reinforcing the idea that it's very important to unbox everything as close as possible to delivery to ensure it's the right item and unbroken.

Glad to see you're continuing the process! Thanks for the pix.


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## ChrisDIY

wkearney99 said:


> I bought several Robern mirrors. It wasn't until weeks after I'd bought them I discovered one of them wasn't the plain edge I'd ordered, but beveled. Thankfully the supplier swapped it out, but it did take some wrangling. Reinforcing the idea that it's very important to unbox everything as close as possible to delivery to ensure it's the right item and unbroken.
> 
> Glad to see you're continuing the process! Thanks for the pix.


You're welcome, it's nice seeing it finally come together after two years. 

With the new shower purchased a new tankless water heater. Will need to adjust well pump and pressure tank. Needs to be 70/60 instead of 60/50. I'll have to look up how to adjust that since can't remember steps.


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## ChrisDIY

Mirror cabinet in, working on sink after dinner.


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## ChrisDIY

Sneak Preview, LOL drain not hooked up


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## wkearney99

Shame that fancy shower controller and wall plates don't line up with the tile pattern. Is that a gloss surface on the tiles?

That bamboo on that vanity? We have a pair like that in the master bath. That and the basement bath uses a porcelain top that looks very much like that one. Nice selections you've got there.


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## ChrisDIY

Thanks, :smile:

Actually the bottom of the cut out for the switches and the control are both on the same grout line on the bottom. I guess that isn't how you do it, oh well?

It's a "Cypress" pattern I think...

Wife wanted me to duplicate this: 

http://www.housebeautiful.com/_mobile/decorating/laguna-beach-bathroom#slide-1

Found a tile called "White Ice" by Surfaces.net out of Florida, marble wasn't going to happen...

Chris


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## wkearney99

Heh, most things look best in person. Pictures from websites/magazines don't tell you just how heavily they were staged or 'shopped.

I'll have to take some pix of our master bath. Very much the same vibe as HB.


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## ChrisDIY

wkearney99 said:


> Heh, most things look best in person. Pictures from websites/magazines don't tell you just how heavily they were staged or 'shopped.
> 
> I'll have to take some pix of our master bath. Very much the same vibe as HB.


Its the exact Waterworks glass tile at the top and it looks much darker in our bathroom.


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## wkearney99

ChrisDIY said:


> Its the exact Waterworks glass tile at the top and it looks much darker in our bathroom.


Grout and thinset color has a lot to do with it, but so does Photoshopping pictures. 

I went with a brighter white for the grout in some glass to get a little more pop out of it (while using something a little less white for the field tile). It was really tricky to get grout colors figured out. What seemed good when looking at tile samples wasn't as good when looking at actual lighting conditions in new build. Made it a bit of a hassle to get it sorted last-minute, but worth it in the end.


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## ChrisDIY

Let's try this again...









3 on one Asian pear









2 on one Asian pear









3 on one apple


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## ChrisDIY

Ooops, I guess that's a 4 on one apple...


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## ChrisDIY

Still waiting on the Toto toilet. Then finish bathroom.


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## ChrisDIY

Toilet FINALLY here BUT, this is the most RIDICULOUSLY hard toilet to put in!!!


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## ChrisDIY

ARGH! It's done but after blood, sweat and almost tears.


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## TheEplumber

That looks like one I did a few months ago, but I thought mine was Kohler
Did you have to mount a plate to the floor and tighten the bowl down through those small side holes?

And the supply line fed up through the tank?

What a pain they are...... I feel for ya


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## ChrisDIY

TheEplumber said:


> That looks like one I did a few months ago, but I thought mine was Kohler
> Did you have to mount a plate to the floor and tighten the bowl down through those small side holes?
> 
> And the supply line fed up through the tank?
> 
> What a pain they are...... I feel for ya


It's the Toto Aquia. Description for install is the same. I needed my daughter's hands to get the water supply on!!! :furious: Directions should say put it on before the tank. Toto should also have different instructions for the two types of install or at least separate them in the booklet. Booh! Toto


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## ChrisDIY

One more step to go! Need to remove and paint this side of the door and do the same for trim.


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## ChrisDIY

There has been a delay in finishing the master closet but in the mean time.

The Rinnai hydronic air-handler installed new, the blower has FAILED!!! :furious:

What makes matters worse is the warranty just expired at the end of 2014 AND the units have been discontinued. I will be on the search for replacement parts when stores open on Monday.

The blower wheel appears to have come off the spindle on the motor and was damaged inside of the blower. So the fail point could have been the set screw. It could have been also a vane which took it off balance and then caused it to loosen. Either way could be something simple or worse case scenario an entire new furnace!

The Goodman unit purchased with the house is chugging away so half the house is heated.


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## ChrisDIY

The personal work stop order has been lifted, LOL. Working on closet system. 

















Going outside shortly to start laying out area to clear for retaining wall.


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## ChrisDIY

I'm approaching this side differently. I rented a sod cutter to keep grass out of the soil I need to reuse. This side is more new soil than the previous side. I found out we have a major grub problem.







Sod cut







Next step remove the posts and OSB retaining wall.


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## ChrisDIY

Closet coming along one small order at a time.


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## BigJim

Have you got close enough to make a punch list yet, I love scratching off things done. I like to do a bunch of small things, that way it looks like I did a lot... on paper. LOL


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## ChrisDIY

BigJim said:


> Have you got close enough to make a punch list yet, I love scratching off things done. I like to do a bunch of small things, that way it looks like I did a lot... on paper. LOL


I really only have three things to complete, the retaining wall, the closet and the front foyer. The retaining wall is a massive undertaking, the other two is just money and time.


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## ChrisDIY

Almost to the house to start wall number two


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## ChrisDIY

First post out three to go, more than a days work!


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## ChrisDIY

I think drier or wetter soil conditions is making this easier...

Unlike last time able to pull out post work cement using loader


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## ChrisDIY

Trenching done with first few passes of granular fill. Will get it within an inch of where I want it then use flume this time around to level. This way I can drop blocks without having to do so much additional levelling.



















Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk


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## ChrisDIY

With a deck minimally 6' in the air taking delivery and placing our new grill on the deck was going to be a challenge.

I had to build a "contraption" to transport and lift the 450 lbs. grill on and off the deck and into the garage for storage.

























Test run showed that I needed to strengthen and modify front edge


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## ChrisDIY

The grill came and I used my new pallet forks to remove from the truck. No more stinkin' lift gate!









Added attachment points for tie-downs









The delivery









Snaps









On to the deck


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## ChrisDIY

Cooked some ribs

























Ok, back to work!

Sent from my Galaxy S6 Edge using Tapatalk


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## sleepyg

Now you've done it! I'm ready to eat all over again!


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