# Repair or Replace Roof-to-Wall flashing



## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

That would be called an apron.Typically it is installed up behind the siding and J-channel.Some repairs are easy and it all depends on how far up behind the siding it goes.You can remove 2 courses of shingles the full length post to post.(corner posts of the siding) 

I usually pull the J channel and pop the 1st piece of siding off the track.Loosen it don't remove it.Then remove the apron.I allow 4" on the roof deck and 4" up the wall.The metal should be broke(bent) to set firmly to the wall as well as the roof deck.

I would call and get an estimate for this unless you have prior roofing experience.


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## Learn as i go (Mar 8, 2011)

Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, are you saying the apron is just the rubber flashing, or both the rubber and metal along the entire length of the roof? if it's just the rubber, then i wouldn't need to loosen anything except the edges of the metal L-flashing that it's pinned under. it doesn't really go up the wall at all... just TO the wall under the windows, where someone used cement or something to seal the seam (and it's cracking now). Any new flashing can't go 4" inches up the wall because the window sills are less than 2" from the roof. i can bend some L-flashing or step flashing to fit under the windows so that it goes up the wall to the sill and seal the seam there with cement or silicone. that would at least raise the seam more than an inch above the roof and make it extremely difficult for water to get to it... right now, the rain just needs to be a bit horizontal to hit the cracking seam.

as for the rest of the flashing, it seems that all i really need to do extend the flashing out beyond the edge of the roof and add a kickout diverter. if anyone has suggestions for that, i'd be interested to hear.

for right now, it looks like we're in for another 3" of rain here in MD today, so i'm just going to keep my plastic-wrap "tarp" there... hopefully i'll get some verification that the source of the leak showing up in the sunroom is under that far right window. roof repairs will come this weekend.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

The rubber is not really a flashing, its there because the "roofer" was lazy and didnt want to do as Roofmaster said. Should be the "L" shaped metal across the whole wall of hte house. Carfully trimmed and fitted along the windows. You do have to remove or loosen the siding to do this properly other wise the wate might be able to get in behind the siding and flashing. Its not really alot of work its technical work. Too many people think they can do roofing then they find them selfs in over there head. Instead of chewing crow and having someone do it right they fudge thier way around it.


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## Learn as i go (Mar 8, 2011)

thanks for the info. so i'll need to tuck the flashing in behind the siding and j-channel, but does the flashing need to also go behind the sheathing paper? i assume the bottom edge of the paper is behind the siding and within 3-4 inches of the roof. would i tape that seam or use a sealant?

also, i'd read that soldering is best, but would some roofing cement be good enough for where one piece of metal laps over another? and same question for how to seal the space between the top of the flashing and the bottom of the window sills... i assume some roofing cement would be better than silicone?

not sure whether i'm going to replace the entire wall of flashing or just the rubber section, but do you think i should at least add a kickout diverter flashing to each end of the wall? seems like what's showing in the 2nd photo above and the one attached here aren't correct.

one more quick question: is the aluminum angle flashing here the right product to use (i'd probably have to reduce that 120 degree angle a bit):
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials/h_d1/N-5yc1vZaqns/R-100081760/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

thanks again!


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Learn as i go said:


> thanks for the info. so i'll need to tuck the flashing in behind the siding and j-channel, but does the flashing need to also go behind the sheathing paper? i assume the bottom edge of the paper is behind the siding and within 3-4 inches of the roof. would i tape that seam or use a sealant?
> Yes behind the paper if there is any. You wouldnt need to tape or caulk it as the water will run off easy on the vertical surface.
> 
> also, i'd read that soldering is best, but would some roofing cement be good enough for where one piece of metal laps over another? and same question for how to seal the space between the top of the flashing and the bottom of the window sills... i assume some roofing cement would be better than silicone?
> ...


 
Your welcome, and good luck


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

1985gt said:


> Your welcome, and good luck


 
Very informative,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I agree


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## Learn as i go (Mar 8, 2011)

i started this thread 3.5 years ago and replaced the apron flashing as discussed above. the leak did seem to be fixed for awhile, though i can't be sure my repair stopped it because it only ever leaked during heavy storms when the wind was blowing in a certain direction. regardless, the leak returned several months ago, along with a couple other leaks around the house, so I'm getting the roof replaced (house build in 1995, so it's due). my question now is how much should be done? one roofer told me that it's very possible that it's not the roof-to-wall seam that's leaking but rather the window... so i might need to either caulk or replace them. another roofer said that if i wanted to be handy on job day, he'd help me remove the windows, properly flash through the frames (after tear-off but before new shingles), and then reinstall the same windows... though i think that'd add significantly to his price. if it is in fact the window leaking through cracks in the sill, would flashing the bottom of the frame be sufficient to divert any water coming down out to the roof rather than down into the wall? the same guy said he could alternatively (and much less expensive i think) cut into the wall below the window and jam the new metal flashing in there with sealant. i could just replace the windows, but we're planning to sell the house within a year or 2, so unnecessary window replacements aren't a good investment for us right now, especially if it's only one room being replaced. i was thinking that in order to properly flash the windows, that'd have to be done after tear-off but before reshingle. however, would it be possible to do it properly even after the roof is replaced? would it require taking up a row or 2 of shingles and then replacing them on top of the new flashing? or would it be possible to just use flexible self-adhesive window flashing to counter-flash the apron installed by the roofer?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Water test the window and figure out where the leak is coming from. If it's a flashing issue no reason you should be able to reflash and seal that window up.

Either way, a water test is the best place to start.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Yep get the hose out, start at the bottom and work your way up, spray the roof flashing first to eliminate it then work up and around the corners of the windows.


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