# Big Ceiling Plaster Patch



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd be tempted to try and pull it up with some ceiling washers, clean up anything that was loose, then tape and drywall compound.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-Perforated-Ceiling-Washer-Contain-100-PCW100/202308450


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

That looks like a structural crack maybe do to movement from the stair if it continue to move the crack will reappear. For repair I do agree with using the plaster washers. My recommended plaster repair would be to apply a plaster compound in the larger crack than apply a fiber mesh over that followed by a plaster compound. I would not recommend using any joint compound over a plaster system If you must use a drywall product use a setting compound.
For a very top notch plaster repair see if you can find one of the following products I will list in order of preference that I have used.
Master of Plaster
TexSton
American Clay
Variance ( this one was produced by Master Wall? )
Litex
Of all the above I stayed with Master of Plaster very user friendly and very smooth finish.


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## jerkbag (Jan 6, 2014)

joecaption said:


> I'd be tempted to try and pull it up with some ceiling washers, clean up anything that was loose, then tape and drywall compound.
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rite-Perforated-Ceiling-Washer-Contain-100-PCW100/202308450


Okay cool I'll try that. I have some ceiling washers, but through it was a lost cause.


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## jerkbag (Jan 6, 2014)

ClarenceBauer said:


> That looks like a structural crack maybe do to movement from the stair if it continue to move the crack will reappear. For repair I do agree with using the plaster washers. My recommended plaster repair would be to apply a plaster compound in the larger crack than apply a fiber mesh over that followed by a plaster compound. I would not recommend using any joint compound over a plaster system If you must use a drywall product use a setting compound.
> For a very top notch plaster repair see if you can find one of the following products I will list in order of preference that I have used.
> Master of Plaster
> TexSton
> ...


Thanks! I agree it could re-appear, but it has been there for about 8 years (I bought the house when I was younger and didn't care about stuff like this ) and the size of the crack hasn't changed I think gravity just slowly pulled it further apart, so I don't think there is an imminent issue. It was there when I bought the house, and I have a feeling it detached from the keys god knows how long ago (house is 100+ years old).


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## jerkbag (Jan 6, 2014)

ClarenceBauer said:


> For a very top notch plaster repair see if you can find one of the following products I will list in order of preference that I have used.
> Master of Plaster
> TexSton
> American Clay
> ...


Does anyone have suggestions of products available in Canada (Toronto)? Those above don't look to be easily available here. My hardware store sells straight up plaster of paris -- is that what I want?


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## sailnaked6842 (Nov 1, 2017)

I'm remodeling a plaster and lath house right now and have been investigating ways to do this. If you want to save as much plaster as possible you could try using liquid nails and screws with plastic washers to adhere the plaster to the lath which is similar to the Big Wally's Plaster repair. Next use the FibaFuse paperless wall repair fabric with some setting compound and skim the daylights out of the ceiling. This way takes a little longer but it's less messy, the least destructive and probably won't crack again.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

For a 100 year old plaster work it will be best to use a adhesive reattachment system. Big Wally's Plaster Magic is a good product. If you can't get it or would rather go some other route you can use gorilla Glue injected behind the plaster to reattach it also could use Elmer's Glue injected behind the plaster. Install plaster washers when glue is still fluid.
As for plaster skim coating if you can't get the Master of Plaster no bonding agent required with this. 
You can use USG Diamond base plaster with USG Diamond finish any plaster top coating is going to require a bonding agent being it has paint applied. USG has a Plaster Bonder also has a 100% Acrylic Add-Mix Fortifier you can add to the plaster mix.
Another option you have is mix your own recipe is 60 % lime putty 35 % Guaging Plaster & 5 % Moulding Plaster only mix as much as you can use in 45 min. 
Call Lauren @ Master of Plaster 803-403-5252 ask her if she has ever shipped to Canada and where to and what is the cost. this product will make your plaster experience look like it was completed by a PRO.


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## jerkbag (Jan 6, 2014)

Well, it got away from me a little when I tried using the washers 

The edges didn't meet cleanly when trying to push it back to the ceiling, and it started to crumble off pretty easily. 

What do you think? Should I pull more off near the washers in at the top right, and at the bottom left there?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

If it were me, I would just pull it ALL off and install drywall. If it hadn't been so crumbly (and bulging) I would have just gone over it with 1/4" drywall. As it looks now, pulling it ALL off seems to be a good option. You will have just as much work patching as you would in just replacing that ceiling with drywall.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

If you would like to keep the old Historic Plaster install the plaster washes back about 12 / 18 inches from the exposed edge than remove the existing plaster up to the new installed washers and check to see how it will hold. If everything appears to be solid than get some lath and cut to fit the area where wood lath is. If you would like you can use hardware cloth 1/4 inch Galvanized. ( Rabbit Wire ) or you could also use chicken wire don't try to nail it to the wood lath in stead of nailing wire tie it. Use a premix base like USG Structo-lite or Wood Fiber plaster you can use this one with adding water only or you can add sand for better coverage. after you replace the missing plaster finish with one of the veneer plasters.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Hard to get a good key when there is no gap between the laths.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

The gap is just right just need to clean the old keys that are remaining. 100 years ago the carpenters knew exactly how to do it. It worked for 100 years.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

With repairs like that I'll usually square it off the best I can and insert drywall [shim if needed] to take up most of the void, then finish with durabond. Might not be the correct way to repair drywall but it works well ..... especially if you are like me and lack actual plaster experience.


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## jerkbag (Jan 6, 2014)

Thanks for all the info everyone. I can see it might make more sense to drywall, but because it's in an unimportant area I am interested in trying to do a proper plaster repair, as I think at some point I am going to have to do it in other areas of the house so it will be good practise. 

The lath is setup right with gaps, I just need to clean out the old keys. Will try the advice of moving the washers a little back from the hole and pulling it off to where it's still attached. 

One last question for Clarence: why is it necessary to install new lath? Can't I just clean out the keys from the old stuff and then replaster?


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## sailnaked6842 (Nov 1, 2017)

Mark's right at this point, there's not much you can do since the plaster fell off. What you need to do is either cut back to where the plaster is still attached to the ceiling or you need to adhere what's left to the lath. Then install drywall and one coat of Durabond setting compound. Top that with a second coat of premix and sand flat


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

jerkbag said:


> Thanks for all the info everyone. I can see it might make more sense to drywall, but because it's in an unimportant area I am interested in trying to do a proper plaster repair, as I think at some point I am going to have to do it in other areas of the house so it will be good practise.
> 
> The lath is setup right with gaps, I just need to clean out the old keys. Will try the advice of moving the washers a little back from the hole and pulling it off to where it's still attached.
> 
> One last question for Clarence: why is it necessary to install new lath? Can't I just clean out the keys from the old stuff and then replaster?


Yes you can delete the metal lath and use the existing wood lath.
The process to plaster over wood lath is a little more involved than if metal lath is used. First the wood lath will need to be misted with water say every two hours before you plan to start the plaster this is to insure that the wood does not suck the water from the plaster also you could use a mixture of a bonding agent & water to make the adhesion better, plus make sure you apply enough pressure when you apply the scratch coat of plaster to puss it thru the lath. Keep in mind the metal will give you more keys per Sq inch.


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## That Guy (Aug 19, 2017)

you can buy metal lath at home depot... its in the drywall ailse torwards the middle across from the drywall, near the drywall premixed buckets...

its not as heavy duty as regular metal lath, but itll work. be advised the cut edges are like razor blades!

put on your first coat of base, and shove it in, as soon as that hardens, apply the second coat of base but dont push as hard, and then finish with whatever you want.

Also, you dont want your plaster finish to be as smooth as glass... when your all done, and it looks perfect, use a paint brush, or a CLEAN push broom head, and run it across the surface of the plaster.... this will give you enough grip for the roller so the roller doesnt slide on the patch (very annoying lol)


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## Bret86844 (Mar 16, 2016)

You can only put plaster washers into studs, not lathe. Find the nearest studs, put washers in, then peel away any plaster that comes off easily until you reach the washers at the studs. You kinda need to use your judgement on how much plaster to remove.

If the lathe is damaged, replace it. Use glue like the others mentioned and get it in the open area and any gaps remaining between plaster and lathe.

Use metal mesh over the exposed lathe to help hold the new plaster in place.

Apply plaster, leaving it slightly below the surface since it's about as easy to sand as concrete.

After that you can apply the final layers., similar to how you would finish drywall.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Bret86844 said:


> You can only put plaster washers into studs, not lathe. Find the nearest studs, put washers in, then peel away any plaster that comes off easily until you reach the washers at the studs. You kinda need to use your judgement on how much plaster to remove.
> 
> If the lathe is damaged, replace it. Use glue like the others mentioned and get it in the open area and any gaps remaining between plaster and lathe.
> 
> ...


 You can place the screws for the washers into the wood lath to do so use a speed handle 1/4 or 3/8 drive sung washers to surface of plaster and move plaster back to the lath. Use the glue before using washers.


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