# Methods for getting sandy swirl plaster smooth?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It will come out faster and smoother to remove it down the the suds and start over with new drywall.


----------



## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

try skimming an area with joint compound and see what you think. if you dont like it do as joe suggested and rip it down to the studs and install new drywall.


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

You know, I am reallh leaning toward that actually. The space is small enough, plus I reall need to run some new electrical and data lines anyway. My wife just thinks "that doesnt make sense" though she has never really done it before to see how easy it is. The only person who has told me that it would be much more expensive is our pastor  . I will price it out and see what we are looking at. However, my step dad did say he knew how to skim coat (he has been a painter for years and years and I guess he can do that too. 

Thanks guys...still interested in hearing from others though as well.

My only issue is this: I have put up plenty of board before, but never have finished it. This pretty much involves fiberglass tape, mudd in the seams, smoothed out, primed and painted right?

Mike


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Paper tape, the tape covers the seams not just the mud.


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

Also, what wallboard should I use? Not a whole lot of budget here, but dont want to go super cheap. If I do it right the first time, we are talking about 20 sheets max. We have kids, if that makes a difference, lol.


----------



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

yea you got it, except,paper tape with premixed joint compound .


----------



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

imo tearing out walls and re sheet rocking is a lot easier said than done.think about it you have your ceiling transition ,outlets ,base boards,window recess,door jambs,heat outlets,bla bla bla.


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

Well, i do agree that it it more than just slapping it up there, BUT I have put up board plenty and am comfortable with it, and I have removed and refinished texture 0. And I am getting my electrical upgraded so will be needing to put in new outlets anyway (thats a plus). Also, I measured it out and I would actually only need about 13 boards. Plus I already have crown molding that I have been careful to remove and plan on refinishing and reusing, and have baseboard that I have done the same. Same for window and door casing. My wife still is going the money route, but I do not really care so much as I am thinking practical. I do appreciate your input though. So far I am getting about 75% for and 25% against. 

Mike


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

If you are doing new electric work anyway , it is a no brainer:whistling2:


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

When you are ready to tape we will help--three different muds--three different uses--


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

My wife is still skeptical, but I think I am going to do it this way anyway . 

So a couple more questions, number one - which of these boards should I get?

http://www.lowes.com/pl_Drywall_429...TopFlexible_Area-_-192117_1_drywall_Pop_Cat-1

We do not live in an earthquake area (though we did have one last summer, but it was so random and never usually happens). The house was built in the 40s, so I do not need to go super fancy. 

Also, why paper tape vs. mesh tape? I have seen lots of videos of guys finishing board, and the large majority are using mesh. Just curious. I am guessing it has to do with the texture of it showing through?


Finally, just to toss this one out there (and not to start a heated debate,  but vertcial vs. horizontal. I have read up on it, but wanted to get your opinions. Seems like horizontal is stronger, but requires more cuts (at least it would in my house). Which do you guys do? 

Oh, one more thing, If I am not doing anything with the ceiling and am using crown molding, do I need to tape the top edge? If so, why? This would cause some issues because my ceiling is textured - I think it is called slapdown and has lots and lots of ridges and this would honestly be a nightmare. Thanks!

Mike


----------



## Mr. Paint (Nov 10, 2011)

Not tearing down the wall to the studs leaves you with applying a skim coat over a thin skim coat. This can lead to intercoat adhesion failure when stress is applies (Like wall hangings, etc.) Your need to run new electrical and data cables creates alot of time-consuming patchwork. Another advantage of tearing out the old wall from a 1940's house is being able to add insulation.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Any 1/2 inch drywall will do fine--just get the larges sheets that fit,in order to save on taping seams.


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

Thanks again for the info. I took the time and measured all the area that would need to have board put up and it equates to only 10 sheets of 12' board, so not much at all. Now my biggest issue is that I am a bit more pressed for time than I thought. I need to try to be done by next weekend, which is gonna be hard with me working too. I may try to barter on craigslist for the labor (actually hanging + step 1 of finishingI can handle the rest). I am a web developer and I am sure there are tons of guys out there who do not have a web presence, which is getting important nowadays. I would normally charge 1200 for the full workup, so that is really fair as far as I am concerned! 

We shall see..

Thanks again...

Oh, btw...so is this good to get? http://www.lowes.com:80/pd_97674-27...t_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=&stop_mobi=yes


----------



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

yea ,good luck with that :whistling2:


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

Actually, you would be surprised. People do it all the time. A buddy of mine got all new cabinets installed doing the same thing, well labor only, but still.

Anyway, so I have changed my mind a bit and have come up with my final decision. After taking all things into consideration, including the cost and timeframe, I have decided to just put 1/4" over top of what I already have. Its only a couple dollars more per sheet around here and it would be cheaper(overall), less money, and way less messy. I was not looking forward to the demo to be honest because hauling it all off would have been a little difficult. I realize that I will still be sans insulation still, but the cost of that was gonna put me way over budget and I just dropped 1700 on new furniture so ned to save as much as possible. As far as the electrical, I know I will need extensions, but figure it will still be just as easy and I can do it under the old drywall first. This way, I can just replace the cut piece without having to refinish it, and then put the new board up. 

I can do this relatively quickly considering the small area so I am failry certain that is what I will be doing. Not looking forward to taking all the casing and trim off(carefully to save it, but I am back to being excited about the project again, so that helps. Hopefully I wont sucks horribly at taping and mudding the joints. I will start in the hallway to get practice before I get to the living area.

Does this sound logical?

Thanks.

Mike


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

It's your house and your project---But you are being short sighted--

The insulation will pay for the project---warmer house and cheaper to heat---the time you save not removing the rock will be spent making jamb extenders for the trim---

It is your house and your decision---Mike--


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

@oh'mike Thanks for the response, and yes - you are absolutely right that it would be a much better (in the long run) situation to tear out, put in insulation, and rehang. However, I am not being short sighted because I do realize that. However, what it really comes down to is the fact that a.) this desperately needs to be done now, b.) It has to be done in fairly short order, and c.) my budget right now is running razor thin. I am running into more than I had initially thought in regards to my electrical - it is all getting redone essentially.

That being said, would I rather do it the way you have suggested, absolutely. Does it make sense, perfect sense. Is it "doable", not really. That is the most important thing really. I work as an IT specialist and will only be able to probably take Monday off (to hang) and then will have to work every night when I get home from my 12 hour day on finishing so that it will be ready by this next weekend. The trim is going to take the longest because I will be stripping and reusing what I already have, but I am not so much worried about that as I can work around everything for that and put that up as I can.

In hindsight, while we knew at some point we needed to do this, it wasn't very well planned out. However, we are committed now and will need to do what it takes to get it done.

Thanks again!


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

This will take longer ( your way) than you think- don't expect to have it done in a week of part time..


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

I am assuming that it will, but it is still much faster than the other way. It really is not that big of an area, at least as I see it. But I do realize the need for having to wait an entire 24 hours between each of the compound steps. Also, one other quick question...

I know the need for 3 coats for the joints, but what about the screw holes? Do they also require 3 coats as well. 

One more thing. I failed to mention that I have 2 teenage sons and a wife who are perfectly capable of helping me as well, so it will not be all just be. However, regardless of how many people I have, as I mentioned before I am aware of the time in between (and that is not even counting the prime and at least 2 coats of painting, but my wife is going to do those while I am at work).


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

If you are daring- do the first 2 coats with a setting ( powder) mud- finish with a sandable premix. I use 45 min and can get an area completely mudded in a as long as it takes me to do it 3 times. 
But the powdered stuff is hard ( make it smooth - you don't want to sand it)
If this is first time mudding- don't go there. 
Screw holes usually take 2.

use a fan to speed up


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

Awesome. Great info. And while I am daring, I am also a perfectionist (which is a not so good combination) so I will probably not go that route,


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A word or two on mud types---

Powdered (easy sand) comes in various setting times--20-45-90 minute--
Used to pack gaps and voids before taping---fill coat on corner bead---can be used to embed paper tape
Very hard to sand---

All Purpose---green lid---contains glue--used to embed paper tape---can be used for fill coat before final top coat-----difficult to sand----many pros use this for final coat--They don't do much sanding because they lay it on so nicely--(fast dry time)

Light Weight---blue lid----very easy to sand---used for top coat--slow drying--
Not good for embedding paper tape or filling corner bead.


----------



## shelzmike (Feb 9, 2012)

That is very helpful. Thanks. 

I was also reading that if I am putting board up over other board that I should use liquid nails in between (in addition to screws of course). It makes sense to me, but wanted to run it past my new trusted drywall advisers. 

Mike


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Don't ya love that they call the powdered "Easy Sand" lol But those of us old enough to have used the Durobond brown bag stuff might know why...


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Yes on the drywall adhesive between sheets---

The Durrabond--brown bag mix is rock hard---often the white bag stuff is mistakenly called Durrabond 

I try to correct people here so some unsuspecting newbie doesn't buy the brown bag---


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

oh'mike said:


> Yes on the drywall adhesive between sheets---
> 
> The Durrabond--brown bag mix is rock hard---often the white bag stuff is mistakenly called Durrabond
> 
> ...


----------



## Gaines21 (Feb 12, 2012)

Nice information sharing thanks to all of you


----------

