# Cabinets over tile, or tile around cabinets???



## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Almost done with demo, and after I determine what neeeds to be done regarding the tile floor's subfloor, i'll be ready for cabinets. Given I'll be installing quartz counter (heavy), is it best to 

1) Tile entire floor, then puts cabinets in
2) Put cabinets in, then tile floor

It would be easier for me to do option 1, regarding the tile work, put i'm concerned about the weight of everything on my new floor.

Suggestions?


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

harleysilo said:


> Almost done with demo, and after I determine what neeeds to be done regarding the tile floor's subfloor, i'll be ready for cabinets. Given I'll be installing quartz counter (heavy), is it best to
> 
> 1) Tile entire floor, then puts cabinets in
> 2) Put cabinets in, then tile floor
> ...


I would think better to tile whole floor so you're not scrambling to add tiles if you change cabinets in the future.


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## billinak (Mar 16, 2005)

I've always used the "start at the top" method so that the flooring has no chance of being damaged during the rest of construction, which puts the flooring last on my list.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 7, 2004)

Flooring last. You'll probably replace the flooring before cabinets.

I also work 'top down'.


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

tiles last IMO.
Less tile to purchase. and chances are if you move cabs around, the tile will look worse where it's been used.


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Hey everyone thanks for the suggestions. 

I've done a lot since this thread was started.
Cabinets delivered today, and my father is coming this weekend to help me hang them.

I do have two other question.

1) When I tore out the original hardwood floor I discovered it had been lain over tarpaper. What's up with that? The tile floor in the kitchen had two layers of plywood underneath it, in between the plywood is a layer of tarpaper, same question...

2) We are putting a pass through in one of the walls in the kitchen, it will actually have a bar top made out of Quartz matching the countertops. There will be a backsplash "connecting" the bartop to the kitchen counter top. Now I've figured out how to build the beam etc. so the ceiling doesn't come crashing down, but what do you do to the bottom part of the wall that remains to strengthen it to support bartop? I know it will be attached to the cabinets but.....

Thanks!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v228/harleysilo/tile floor project/KitchenPassthru.jpg


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## manhattan42 (Jun 4, 2006)

Tiles can be installed last, but be sure you raise the cabinets by the thickness of the cement board and tile to assure you have them set at the same level as the rest of the floor.

If you don't you can have issues not being able to install undercounter appliances like compactors, dishwashers and even some newer compact undercabinet washers and dryers.


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## adoble (Aug 31, 2006)

*Agreed*



manhattan42 said:


> Tiles can be installed last, but be sure you raise the cabinets by the thickness of the cement board and tile to assure you have them set at the same level as the rest of the floor.
> 
> If you don't you can have issues not being able to install undercounter appliances like compactors, dishwashers and even some newer compact undercabinet washers and dryers.


I second this suggestion.

Defintely do the floors last, you run too much of a risk in damaging them as well as you'll spend less in tile $$$. This way you can shim and get your cabinets level.


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## adoble (Aug 31, 2006)

harleysilo said:


> Hey everyone thanks for the suggestions.
> 
> I've done a lot since this thread was started.
> Cabinets delivered today, and my father is coming this weekend to help me hang them.
> ...


Rebuild the wall or sister additional supports onto the existing wall, so what I mean is build out the wall on either side so the wall is now thicker than it was before, this way you keep it symmetrical. Additionally I would bolt the new wall frame to the floor to increase stability.

You'll be thankful later.


Its most likley that the existing stud wall is no where strong enough to support your coutertop without it swaying and being unstable when done.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

harleysilo said:


> 1) When I tore out the original hardwood floor I discovered it had been lain over tarpaper. What's up with that? The tile floor in the kitchen had two layers of plywood underneath it, in between the plywood is a layer of tarpaper, same question...


This was done to eliminate possible squeaks between the 2 layers of plywood...rubbing together when walked on.


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## brockhouse (Nov 2, 2012)

*tiling a kitchen*

....okay. I would suggest that you make sure you tile the whole floor. You should never create a difference in the floors elevation in case there is anything that spills on the floor and being a kitchen the chance of the floor being wet it pretty high.. if the floor is higher where there is tile then water will naturally collect at the lowest possible level which would be under the cabinets where you are missing tile, because you will have this pooling under a wood cabinet the cabinet will absorb moisture through capillary action and cause the cabinets to discolour, peal and even start growing mould which can be toxic for indoor air quality. A kitchen makeover is very straightforward... you rip out the existing counters appliances and floor, you then tile the whole floor, then put in the cabinets and countertop and then install new appliances, then do a backsplash and trim and paint. Make sure you are using a product like ditra mat if you are tiling on subfloor, this floor will flex over time and the mat will absorb the flexibility and lower the chance of tiles and grout lines cracking. As for what you have found when you ripped up the hardwood floor...Hardwood floors need a layer that prevents moisture from moving up through the floor which would be absorbed into the hardwood floor and cause the floor to expand and shrink which would damage the floor... tar paper is not the greenest product to use because it contains toxic substances. Tar paper was used for interior applications long ago when products where not necessarily tested for indoor healthy living. However tar paper does the job being impermeable to the movement of moisture. The 2 layers of subfloor is a good building practice for tiling because it increases the floors durability and causes less flexion. The tar paper in the middle of the ply's was probably again to prevent moisture from moving up through the floor causing the thinset to weaken and crack. Also make sure to use a silicone caulking around the cabinets kick board to further prevent moisture from getting under the cabinets.. I hope this info helps; I’m looking forward to posting more info on this site!


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