# Drywall & Shower Flange, Over It or To It?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Boy--it took a minute to figure out what you were saying---

Are you speaking of a fiberglass tub/shower surround?---and the nailing flange?

If so---you will be happiest if you attach some furring strips to the studs around it so the drywall can cover the flange without a bulge-----


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## natspawpaw (Dec 7, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> Boy--it took a minute to figure out what you were saying---
> 
> Are you speaking of a fiberglass tub/shower surround?---and the nailing flange?
> 
> If so---you will be happiest if you attach some furring strips to the studs around it so the drywall can cover the flange without a bulge-----


You are correct, this is the nailing flange on a shower surround. 
Can you buy 1/8" furring strips? If I do it this way how wide should the caulking gap be?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just use 1/4 lattis, 1/8 would not be enough.
1/4 Gap will work.


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## House2HomeLLC (Feb 17, 2013)

First, I would highly suggest using another type of material, such as hardibacker or durarock rather then just drywall. Both items I have listed will not absorb and hold water as drywall will. These items are both highly water resistent and will help to resist the growth of mold. Secondly, you absolutely want to cover the flange. This is a debable topic of what method works best. Furring the studs or cutting into the studs below the height of the tub to reduce their thicknest are both acceptable methods in my opinion. However I try to save the integrity of the studs anytime given the chance. My preferred method is adding a 1.5" wide x 1/4" thick piece of osb or plywood onto the studs from ceiling down to the top of the tub flange before screwing my hardibacker board up. This often leaves a small gap behind the actual flange and the backerboard, which i fill with a silicone in order to stop water from finding its way upward. I'm sure some other members may chime in with their acceptable methods.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

There's 0 reason to use tile board there.
Tile board is not waterpoof.
Moisture resistant sheetrock has been used in millions of homes without any issues in that area.


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## House2HomeLLC (Feb 17, 2013)

I didn't say it was waterproof, i said water resistant. I've seen many cases of a poor job sealing off and the drywall sucking up the moisture cause mold to grow on the wall. I'd rather take a 3x5 sheet and even cut 1' high lengths and run it even just a foot high rather then relying solely on drywall. Just my opinion.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Leave a gap of 1/8 to 1/4 inch---pack that with powdered easy sand--(mixed with water)

Use a paintable flexible caulk at that joint after priming----

As to the furring strips-----I rip those on the table saw----If you don't have one---Joe's suggestion of using 1/4" lath strips works just fine----


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## waynestractor (Apr 27, 2012)

We drywall just to the flange and use fast set mud to fill it in. Used to go over it and caulk to the edge until my drywaller showed me this method, it's so much easier and looks way better when finished!


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## natspawpaw (Dec 7, 2012)

waynestractor said:


> We drywall just to the flange and use fast set mud to fill it in. Used to go over it and caulk to the edge until my drywaller showed me this method, it's so much easier and looks way better when finished!


Do you use any tape or anything with the mud? (mesh, fiberglass, paper,...)

Is "fast set" and "hot" mud the same thing?


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## waynestractor (Apr 27, 2012)

Just the mud...there are lots of different types, hot and fastset/quickset are not the same.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

White bag--easy sand 20/45/90 minute setting time----


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