# Need electricians advice - changing from 3 to 4 prong on my dryer



## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

minnmatt said:


> I bought an used kenmore apartment sized dryer (US 240v)


Older dryers were built for use with (still available) 3wire cord sets and (still available) 3 wire receptacles.

Simplest fix: Return the 4wire cord for the older style still available and perfectly correct to use 3wire type or reinstall the cord that came with the old dryer (if you still have it).

If the issue is that the apartment provides a 4wire receptacle... then the issue is the extra (neutral) wire in the 4wire cordset that doesn't have any place to connect to on the dryer. 

That's OK too. Just don't connect it to anything at all. 
A 10cent wirenut to cap it off will do.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Hi Tarheel,

Thanks for the response. I cannot go back to the three wire plug as my place has a 4 prong outlet. So thats why I bought the 4 prong cord from Home Depot. 

I just need to figure out how to wire it properly. Im not sure what you mean by the extra neutral wire. I need to know which colors go where.

Before the green with yellow stripe went to the case of the dryer. 

I was told to put it on top of the white wire and put it in the middle.

Then I put black on black and red on the red terminal.

The old green screw were it used to be attached to the case, I put the new green wire from the new cord. 

You can see how I have it wired here. 

Why are some people telling me to put the old green with yellow stripe wire on top of the white terminal and you are telling me to just wirecap it?

Which way is it grounded properly? I mean no disrepect at all and appreciate your patience as ive never wired anything like this. I just dont want to get shocked by accident.










Thanks!


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

I would have put the green wires together at the grounding lug.


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

PoleCat said:


> I would have put the green wires together at the grounding lug.


You are incorrect. That would have created a ground-fault condition on the neutral circuit conductor.



minnmatt said:


> Hi Tarheel,
> 
> Thanks for the response. I cannot go back to the three wire plug as my place has a 4 prong outlet. So thats why I bought the 4 prong cord from Home Depot.
> 
> ...


This is the correct method. Newer appliances use a white jumper to avoid the confusion. 

One way to verify you have correctly connected the 4-wire cord is to test for continuity between the neutral and grounding prongs or terminals. There should not be any.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

The green with the yellow stripe is the connection/jumper between the neutral lug and the frame. With a four wire cable you do not need that connection so the wire is put under the neutral screw to hold it out of the way. It is basically connected to itself.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

I had better look at mine. Oh, wait a minute, I remember now, I have a 3 wire cord.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

The frame grounding conductor should NOT be connected to the neutral of a four wire configuration.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

brric said:


> The frame grounding conductor should NOT be connected to the neutral of a four wire configuration.


Correct. However that green/yellow is connected to the neutral terminal internally and gets bolted to the frame for the neutral/ frame bond. You are assuming the green wire is already connected to the frame the connection to the neutral makes the bond.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

joed said:


> Correct. However that green/yellow is connected to the neutral terminal internally and gets bolted to the frame for the neutral/ frame bond. You are assuming the green wire is already connected to the frame the connection to the neutral makes the bond.


In my experience that connection is made only at the terminal block, not internally, meaning the yel/grn gets connected to the equipment grounding conductor just off the terminal block. Unless I am misunderstanding what you are saying, the yel/grn is not connected internally to the neutral.


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## flasherz (Oct 2, 2012)

joed said:


> Correct. However that green/yellow is connected to the neutral terminal internally and gets bolted to the frame for the neutral/ frame bond. You are assuming the green wire is already connected to the frame the connection to the neutral makes the bond.


On my dryer (Maytag), it's the opposite; it's a frame-connected wire that you attach to the neutral terminal only for 3-wire NEMA 10-30 operation. You disconnect it and attach it to the grounding lug for 4-wire NEMA 14-30 operation.

I guess that means to read the instructions for the dryer.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Just to be clear... the green/yellow wire is built in to the dryer. The green one in the photo is from the new 4 prong cord.

Thanks for everyones advice but this is a used dryer. I cant afford new right now and have no manual. 

Heres the model#


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I guess they come in both setups. Like stated read you appliances direction to be sure of the proper setup.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Sorry, but none of this is right. 

Mine in red:


TarheelTerp said:


> Older dryers were built for use with (still available) 3wire cord sets and (still available) 3 wire receptacles.
> Yes, hot/hot/neutral 3-wire circuits.
> 
> Simplest fix: Return the 4wire cord for the older style still available and perfectly correct to use 3wire type or reinstall the cord that came with the old dryer (if you still have it).
> ...


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Another electrician sent me this...

The green wire with the yellow strip does NOT connect to the same center terminal! So, as it is the the picture: 
http://s11.postimg.org/sup3a51mb/NEW.jpg
It needs to be removed from the terminal and capped off. 

Contrary to some misguided beliefs, the old three wire systems did NOT "connect the neutral (grounding) wire to the ground (grounded) wire. Instead, it "grounded the grounding wires". 

Now, all was well till the dryer companies started installing electronic control panels. This is why the grounded and the "grounding" (white, neutral) wires "shall" be separated. 



So as im not an electrician, this doesnt all make much sense to me. What is the end result? Should I:

1. Cap the green/yellow wire?
2. Put the green/yellow wire on the same mount as the green wire in my new 4 prong cord?


The other 4 (blk / wht / red / solid green) wires im leaving them where they are.

Thanks again.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

minnmatt said:


> Another electrician sent me this...
> 
> The green wire with the yellow strip does NOT connect to the same center terminal! So, as it is the the picture:
> http://s11.postimg.org/sup3a51mb/NEW.jpg
> ...


Amazing! Well, this is yet another "electrician" that is/was clueless about these old 3-wire 120/240V circuits. Pretty ironic what he says about misguided beliefs.
For one thing it had/has NOTHING to do with electronic control panels. The ground*ed* conductor (neutral) of the old 3-wire circuits was ALWAYS a ground*ed* conductor (neutral). The separate ground (ground*ing* conductor) was what was made mandatory in later code cycles. 






minnmatt said:


> So as im not an electrician, this doesnt all make much sense to me. What is the end result? Should I:
> 
> 1. Cap the green/yellow wire?
> 2. Put the green/yellow wire on the same mount as the green wire in my new 4 prong cord?
> ...


DO what you want, but I know for a FACT that I am correct on this. 
That green/yel is most likely going straight to teh neutral wire connection in the wiring harness. Regardless if it is or not, cap it off safely and install the 4-wire cord appropriately.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Hello Petey, 

Thanks for your reply...its not what I want. Its that ive gotten so many confusing replies. Im scared there are alot of "electricians" mis-wiring things out there. Scary thought indeed. 

So you are reccomending that I just cap the green/yellow wire? Ive already got the other wires installed.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Dryers usually have a wiring diagram attached to them, pasted on the back panel. If you look it probably will tell you where to connect the green/yellow wire for the four wire cord attachment.


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## flasherz (Oct 2, 2012)

On this particular model, the green wire comes from the neutral on the harness, as Petey noted. Here's the manual:

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0305400.pdf

Pg. 18 shows you the correct orientation - green w/ yellow wire attached to the dryer goes to center terminal a la your picture.

No confusion.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Ok flasherz, 

Thanks for the manual! It does clearly show that on mine the old green/yellow wire should be connected to the white neutral wire. 

Speedy Petey and others told me to cap the wire. Hopefully nothing bad would have happened had I done it that way. 

Ive heard that I can use a continuity tester to verify the install is correct. Now that I have the green/yellow back on top of the white like in the photo how can I verify that this is right with the continuity tester? 

Thanks.


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## flasherz (Oct 2, 2012)

You don't need to... you've basically just connected the wire to itself, as that is where that wire comes from. Capping it achieves the same goal.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Ok now that makes sense. Sorry to drag this on but I was afraid plugging in this thing would be the death of me. Lol. Ok Ill put the green/yellow on the white terminal and put the panel back on then plug it in.

Thanks for everyones help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

minnmatt said:


> Ok flasherz,
> 
> Thanks for the manual! It does clearly show that on mine the old green/yellow wire should be connected to the white neutral wire.
> 
> Speedy Petey and others told me to cap the wire. Hopefully nothing bad would have happened had I done it that way.


No, I said regardless of where it goes you can cap it off. Re-read my last reply.

I have never seen one of these wires that didn't go to the neutral harness. I always put it under the center screw. You seemed apprehensive about this.


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## flasherz (Oct 2, 2012)

Speedy Petey said:


> I have never seen one of these wires that didn't go to the neutral harness. I always put it under the center screw. You seemed apprehensive about this.


On my Maytag, it is the opposite, it's a frame-connected wire. You move the wire to the neutral block only if it's a 3-wire. This particular example is opposite.

It seems silly, because it seems that it would leave things dangerous if you connect a 3-wire without moving the jumper, that's the way it is though.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

Ok so sounds like the best way is to just cap it off like Speedy Petey was recommending. The guys at home depot told me to put all green and green/yellow wires to the case screw.

Someone should call them and tell them they are telling customers the wrong thing.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

minnmatt said:


> Ok so sounds like the best way is to just cap it off like Speedy Petey was recommending. The guys at home depot told me to put all green and green/yellow wires to the case screw.
> 
> Someone should call them and tell them they are telling customers the wrong thing.


Not the first or last time the "electricians" at HD have given out wrong info.

flasherz gave the correct info based on the manual.

Connect the green yellow wire to the white terminal.


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## minnmatt (Sep 8, 2013)

I put both green and green/yellow to the case. Turned it on and it works great.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

minnmatt said:


> I put both green and green/yellow to the case. Turned it on and it works great.


Holy crap! This is getting tedious!
You've over analyzed this to death and still did it wrong.

THAT was the one thing you should NOT have done. No one told you to do it that way, yet several of us told you to do it the right way.


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## mpoulton (Jul 23, 2009)

minnmatt said:


> i put both green and green/yellow to the case. Turned it on and it works great.



Yeah, it works - but it's wrong. You have connected neutral and ground in the dryer. This could create a shock hazard down the road.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

minnmatt said:


> Turned it on and it works great.


Unfortunately, electrical is one area where something can _work_ perfectly yet still be very wrong or even dangerous.


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