# Vertical vs Horizontal drywall



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Vertical will be fine.....IF....your studs are exactly 16" OC. If one is off, you will have to cut a sheet....and the plan of no butt joints goes out the window.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Drywall comes in common lengths up to 16' which can only be installed horizontally and when used they do a good job of straightening out a wall. Access to a basement can limit the length you can use, but horizontally can still reduce the bump effect of seams every 4'. But either works. If you ask your mud guy, I bet he would prefer horizontally. Easier to mud that mid-height seam, IMO.

Bud


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Horizontal is definitely the easiest and quickest.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

I am not a pro drywaller byt have done a significent amount of it. If you choose horizontal, it is best to install the higher sheet first. That will give you a continuous tapered edge to tapered edge joint 4 feet down from the ceiling, and, near the floor, the drywall will not be tapered, so the baseboard will lay flat.

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

I prefer to install drywall and finish drywall horizontally. :thumbsup:


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## tjfslaughter (Oct 2, 2012)

Horizontal and staggered seams is the strongest. Make sure you use a 1/2" spacer on the bottom during install to keep Sheetrock off of floor


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

If you are doing this by yourself, I find installing a temporary ledger board just below the 4' line to allow me to place the 4x8 sheet about where it needs to be. Once it is positioned where you want it, left to right, then shim it up tight against the ceiling. 

Bud


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

When I did my house, I ordered 250 4'x12' sheets that I and some friends installed horizontally. For that application, it worked well and the tapers were happy. The only thing I didn't like was the vertical joints where the 4' ends butted together isn't tapered and left bulges you could see when looking down a long hallway or room wall. But with horizontal, you also tend to use less drywall on anything other than 8' walls.

I just finished the drywall on a 15'x15' room and installed 4'x8' sheets vertically. Since I installed all the firring and I knew they were 16" O.C., there wasn't a problem and I didn't have that issue with butting the 4' ends. And since I'm taping and installing the baseboard, vertical was the best option for me.

The tapers created on the long edges of drywall make taping so much easier. I like to take advantage of that. Horizontal installations on an 8' wall leave one taper right where the baseboard is installed, where wall and floor meet. That can create problems when installing the baseboard as it tends to be sucked in at the bottom (if you nail it there) leaving a gap at the top. 

In the end, it's a personal decision, but for me the specific application is what determines vertical or horizontal.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Hi JM,
As you mention and as has been mentioned a couple of times, when the taper is at the bottom it would allow the baseboard to tilt inward. But, only if the someone doesn't fix that problem first.

Two options in my experience, rip some 1.5" wood into 1/8" strips (1.5" x 1/8"). Use that to par the bottom so the baseboard will seat flush. If the mud man (?) wants to fix it, they can with mud and tape and they can do it quickly.

I've seen both but personally only used the wood strips. Sounds excessive, but it makes the trim fit both flat and in the corners thus actually saving time.

Bud


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

tjfslaughter said:


> Horizontal and staggered seams is the strongest.


How can it be stronger than vertical sheets where every seam is against structure and screwed, as opposed to horizontal sheets where seams are unsupported between studs?


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Horizontal joints, at 4' off the ground are supposedly less visible than vertical joints, which will be at eye level, at some points. I don't think it really matters too much.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

I run the rock horizontally and keep the butt ends away from the studs. Use butt boards to finish the butts. It's like having rock with 4 tapered edges.


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

rjniles said:


> I run the rock horizontally and keep the butt ends away from the studs. Use butt boards to finish the butts. It's like having rock with 4 tapered edges.


Something like this?


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

They certainly work but are not friendly to insulated walls.
I've not used the butt boards, but when drywalling studs 24" oc I have used a backer board along the horizontal seams, similar.

Bud


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

JulieMor said:


> Something like this?


As noted those would be a pain with an insulated wall. I use Trim Tex brand butt boards.


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

Just ran across this neat tool https://www.kamcoboston.com/images/Customer-files/PortaMill_Flyer_2013.pdf





Never seen one before but it looks like it would solve the butt problem. But for how much?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Anti-wingnut said:


> How can it be stronger than vertical sheets where every seam is against structure and screwed, as opposed to horizontal sheets where seams are unsupported between studs?


A wall stud 11/2" wide if the stud you are screwing to perfectly straight that gives you 3/4 of an inch to screw to. Now if the stud is placed only a 1/4" off center which is very little that means you now only have a 1/2" of rock on one side and an inch on the other. Now you are screwing closer to the edge and the connection is getting weaker. Now the framer sets the next stud 16"oc from the last one and from that point on all connections will be off. And if you come on a warped stud you may have nothing left to screw too.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

JulieMor said:


> Just ran across this neat tool https://www.kamcoboston.com/images/Customer-files/PortaMill_Flyer_2013.pdf
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHr4-W6wjCY
> 
> Never seen one before but it looks like it would solve the butt problem. But for how much?


I watched the whole thing I'll take the Butt Boards.


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## darren (Nov 25, 2005)

When doing horizontal do you leave the tapered edge and butt that up to the ceiling or do you cut the tapered edge?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Leave it. It will get filled when you tape.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Drywall is stronger in its length (running across studs) due the machining process (a grain, so to speak); Flexural strength; Length= *110#* Width=* 40#*

Modulus of rupture (MOR) = *750 *psi and *260* psi; http://www.americangypsum.com/sites/default/files/documents/GA-235-10.pdf

Note from that link it is a *15 minute* thermal barrier. Important if your Inspector is on the ball as any foamboard/wood framing requires this thermal barrier per codes;http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2006f2/icod_irc_2006f2_3_par134.htm

And it must be installed per code, which requires: "*R702.3.5 Application.* Maximum spacing of supports and the size and spacing of fasteners used to attach gypsum board shall comply with Table R702.3.5. Gypsum sheathing shall be attached to exterior walls in accordance with Table R602.3(1). Gypsum board shall be applied at right angles or parallel to framing members. *All edges and ends of gypsum board shall occur on the framing members,* except those edges and ends that are perpendicular to the framing members. Interior gypsum board shall not be installed where it is directly exposed to the weather or to water. "----- bold is mine, from; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm
IBC is similar; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/ibc/2009/icod_ibc_2009_25_par026.htm

Butt boards are fine if fastened to the framing... but I doubt many follow code... in this regard, here is another one many don't know; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/ibc/2009/icod_ibc_2009_25_sec004.htm

Gary


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Butt boards do not attach to the framing. Have used them in the 3 states I have lived in and they passed inspection in all 3.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Yep, but why leave an out for the HO Insurance claim if drywall wasn't installed per code... maybe someone could find a code disproving this one for me... .

Gary


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

But unless I'm reading it wrong no installation is in compliance since it calls for 2" and all 2x framing lumber is only 1 1/2"


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## ExpertRoofing (May 23, 2016)

Horizontally is the easiest way to do it and the strongest.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

ToolSeeker said:


> But unless I'm reading it wrong no installation is in compliance since it calls for 2" and all 2x framing lumber is only 1 1/2"


Read again, code refers to nominal dimension, of which a finished piece of lumber is.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Yep, https://www.google.com/search?q=nom...utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=nominal+thickness+definition

CMU and brick are listed per code that include the grout, so they measure smaller... studs/plate used to be 1-5/8" x 3-5/8", rafters, even OSB panels are undersized for the required gap to expand/contract, etc. but are thinner to save wood... check your 1x6 or 1x4 fence boards...lol.

Gary


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