# Paint On Outside Door Trims Peeling (Again)



## mustangmike3789 (Apr 10, 2011)

have you been using any primer? a wire brush is fine for removing some of the loose paint. you should also sand the surface to provide a profile for the paint to bite to.


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## alan93 (Aug 14, 2011)

mustangmike3789 said:


> have you been using any primer? a wire brush is fine for removing some of the loose paint. you should also sand the surface to provide a profile for the paint to bite to.


Not really so evidently this stuff is way to complicated for me and I should have researched door trim painting before wasting my time and money.

After hearing that I am a little angry that a sales person at a paint store where paint is the only thing they sell didn't qualify me better on my purchase by asking me what I was using it for and thus could have recommended primer and any other technique I needed to use to get the most out of the paint to save me some troulbe. 

As a result I have trouble and am writing Sherwin Williams about my experience.

Thanks.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

alan93 said:


> Not really so evidently this stuff is way to complicated for me and I should have researched door trim painting before wasting my time and money.
> 
> After hearing that I am a little angry that a sales person at a paint store where paint is the only thing they sell didn't qualify me better on my purchase by asking me what I was using it for and thus could have recommended primer and any other technique I needed to use to get the most out of the paint to save me some troulbe.
> 
> ...


Did YOU ask any questions? It is not the sales persons job to qualify every sale. You need to ask pertinent questions that they would be happy to answer and sell more of the proper products.

If you just went in and bought th paint, then they thought you knew what you wanted and what you were doing,apparently this was not the case.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Sorry, but three years is about all you get out of wood door trim. It usually wicks water up from the bottom causing peeling near the base.........poor design flaw IMO. Also, most door trim (brick mold) is finger jointed wood and is prone to early paint failure. It's just one of those things you have to maintain every 2 or 3 years.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Alan, when you say "it's peeling", what does that mean? Where on the frame is it peeling? What is it peeling down to, bare wood or another paint layer? Gymschu stole my thunder, again. He's onto something about the base of the frames, which have a terrible track record for holding paint. Please be a little more specific with what, how, and where it's failing.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

chrisn said:


> Did YOU ask any questions? It is not the sales persons job to qualify every sale. You need to ask pertinent questions that they would be happy to answer and sell more of the proper products.
> 
> If you just went in and bought th paint, then they thought you knew what you wanted and what you were doing,apparently this was not the case.


Not to mention that the lable on the back of the can has instructions, including prep and primining.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

jsheridan said:


> Alan, when you say "it's peeling", what does that mean? Where on the frame is it peeling? What is it peeling down to, bare wood or another paint layer? Gymschu stole my thunder, again. He's onto something about the base of the frames, which have a terrible track record for holding paint. Please be a little more specific with what, how, and where it's failing.


I am patting myself on the back as I have "stolen the thunder" from Joe twice this week.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Great minds think alike. I believe it's twice in one day, if not mistaken.


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

If this is the third go around in 10 years I would be inclined to replace it. Get new trim, prime and paint ALL faces, including the inside face and especially the ends, before installing it. Oil primer and topcoat.


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## alan93 (Aug 14, 2011)

I think flaking is a better word for it and only in certain places but it will need to be redone. 

Didn't see the word "directions" on label but I saw the word "wood" and under it it mentioned A-100 oil primer.

Learn something new every day.


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## alan93 (Aug 14, 2011)

jschaben said:


> If this is the third go around in 10 years I would be inclined to replace it. Get new trim, prime and paint ALL faces, including the inside face and especially the ends, before installing it. Oil primer and topcoat.


Speaking of replacing it. I have some rot at the bottom of one of the doors on the north side of the house. (storms come in from north west usually).

Whats the best way to repair that? Pull the entire frame (or only piece with rot) and replace with full trim?

I'm guessing about $200 for a job like that, am I right?


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## alan93 (Aug 14, 2011)

Gymschu said:


> Sorry, but three years is about all you get out of wood door trim. It usually wicks water up from the bottom causing peeling near the base.........poor design flaw IMO. Also, most door trim (brick mold) is finger jointed wood and is prone to early paint failure. It's just one of those things you have to maintain every 2 or 3 years.


 
ok , perhaps so, and I learned yet something else today. Life is harder when maintaining a home.

But I noticed the white railing on front of house (southside) seems to be holding up well I think i did at least 2 coats on it.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

If it is indeed Brickmold, alan, you can replace it with PVC brickmold that won't rot and won't need painted.


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