# Primer Pulling Off



## cougar01 (Jan 22, 2009)

OK. We redid our powder room. All new drywall. We wiped the dust off of the walls prior to priming with towels. Used many towels until no more dust was showing on the walls and the towles were no longer "dusty". I was afraid to use a damp rag over the bare joint compound. Primed the drywall with a primer/sealer. I found some imperfections in the wall after priming. After a few days (3-4) I marked these spots with a small pice of blue painters tape. When taking the tape off, it blisters and pulls the primer off of the wall. Mainly on the areas where the joint compound is. Once it starts peeling, I can grab hold of it and peel of small sheets at a time. The rest of the wall I did "spot checks" and it seemed OK. Is the primer not "cured" enough for the tape yet? Willa nother coat of primer help it adhere to the wall?


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Cougar, it could be a fine layer of dust was under it. It's possible that it wasn't cured. Some bonding primers, though they may be dry enough to top coat over, may take up to a week to develop the bonding characteristic. All paints continue to develop over a period of time long after the job is finished. I would touch up with spackle, reprime the touch up, and then finish the walls with two topcoats. I think you'll be fine. The finish will lock everything down. An old timer told me when I was a kid complaining of how some chipping paint just wouldn't stop coming off, he said "It'll stop if you do". Don't peel paint like that, take a razor and cut a sqaure around the blister, then patch over. Just curious, what kind of compound did you use and how long did it sit before painting?


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

of course with out seeing the primer being applied and assuming all is dry and cleaned .when you roll on a bonding primer sealer you want to roll it on up down only a few times then move on ,if you over roll it it starts to pick it self back up . also after wall is kinda dry but still cold to touch do not roll over it you can delaminate first coat . sheridan hit on it. cut it out with a sharp razor blade then put joint compound over it lightly sand do not disturb primer any further prime then paint don't rush dry times.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Also, in this case especially,it would help to know EXACTLY what was applied.:yes:


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## cougar01 (Jan 22, 2009)

Thanks for the replies! It's been over 1 week now and still peeling. It looks like the primer/sealer didn't even attach itslef to the joint compound. I have areas of drywall without compound on it and I can roll the primer back with my thumb and peel it off. This hardly damages the paper on the drywall....I just get "fuzzies" on the back of the primer. The primer is gritty on the back where it pulls off the joint compound. So, I would guees there was some dust there. I used Sheetrock lightweight joint compound and Behr #75 Primer/Sealer. Compound was dry at least 1 week before priming except for a few minor touch up spots. Those we let dry 24-48 hours.

I had a can of leftover Valspar drywall primer so I did a little test. I brushed the Valspar on 1 section of the compound where I peeled off the Behr, and also painted another spot with Behr again. This morning the Behr is still bright white on the wall but the Valspar looks like it has completely disappeared.....sucked into the joint compound.

Also, when applying the topcoat, wouldn't the "pulling" of the topcoat cause the primer coat to pull off the walls, too?

I know from reading posts that Behr is a 4 letter word, but I honestly never had problems in the past. I've done drywall in other rooms and used the blue tape to mark spots without having it blister and peel like a sheet. I've been reading about putting Gardz on before priming, among other options.


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## NCpaint1 (Aug 13, 2009)

cougar01 said:


> I know from reading posts that Behr is a 4 letter word, but I honestly never had problems in the past. I've done drywall in other rooms and used the blue tape to mark spots without having it blister and peel like a sheet. I've been reading about putting Gardz on before priming, among other options.


With Behr, its not "if" you will have a problem, but "when". Sounds like the Valspar did what its supposed to. Do us a favor, call the Behr 800 number and see what they say, I bet we're all curious to their answer :icon_rolleyes: Post their response, that might make for some good entertainment :yes:


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## cougar01 (Jan 22, 2009)

I did so yesterday. They asked if the compound was dry, and if the back of the peeled primer was gritty. If gritty, then we didn't clean the wall good enough before priming and there was too much dust on the wall for it to adhere. They offered a free replacement can of paint. At this point, it is such a mess in there that I think I'm just going to rip the drywall down and start over. I'm just not confident that the other areas will eventually adhere itself to the compound and plain wallboard. After topcoating, I will still need to put painters tape on so I can paint trim, etc, and I'd be afraid it will all pull off if the primer isn't strongly attached. Advice on a good primer? Valspar? Sherwin Williams? Should I put something like Gardz down first?

It's almost like the primer dried "on top" of the wall and didn't penetrate. Other than gutting everything and starting over, is there a way to remove all of the primer?


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## NCpaint1 (Aug 13, 2009)

cougar01 said:


> I did so yesterday. They asked if the compound was dry, and if the back of the peeled primer was gritty. If gritty, then we didn't clean the wall good enough before priming and there was too much dust on the wall for it to adhere. They offered a free replacement can of paint. At this point, it is such a mess in there that I think I'm just going to rip the drywall down and start over. I'm just not confident that the other areas will eventually adhere itself to the compound and plain wallboard. After topcoating, I will still need to put painters tape on so I can paint trim, etc, and I'd be afraid it will all pull off if the primer isn't strongly attached. Advice on a good primer? Valspar? Sherwin Williams? Should I put something like Gardz down first?


Paint the walls last. No need to tape walls. 

-Prime the entire room
-Paint the ceiling
-paint the trim
-paint the walls

Done done done :thumbsup:

Avoid the box if possible, stick to a dedicated "paint store" Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, PPG, and others. There are some really good regional brands depending on where you're located.

For primer I like Insulx Aqua Lock, or Zinnser 123. 

Finishes, the absolute best IMO is Aura Bath & Spa. Its mildew resistant, and resists water streaking.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

I wouldn't get the ripper bar just yet. Try putting some masking tape and pulling on an area that seems okay, and do that in a couple of test areas. If masking tape, not blue tape, doesn't pull it it's bonded. And, if it isn't bonded, a few well placed tape strips may aid in removing it. I understand how you feel, but try to work with what you have. Remove the most you can, prime the walls to lock it down, spackle the ridges out, spot prime and paint. I'm near the top in fussiness and concern about my work, but it's only a coat of paint. Even if certain sections aren't well bonded, if the roller suction doesn't lift them, they'll be fine. I would, myself, use BIN as my primer that I use to lock it down and to spot prime my spackle. BIN shellac will provide a harder more peel resistant base coat. Ripping and replacing sheetrock isn't necessary.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Like many of you, I have been a painter for many years and I have NEVER once had a primer peel right off a wall like what has been described.........Behr strikes again. In fact, sometimes I'm pushed for time and don't get all the dust off the walls before priming and still, I've never encountered this type of problem.


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## cougar01 (Jan 22, 2009)

Thanks everyone! I really don't feel comfortable with what's on the walls and I think it's much easier for me to just put up new instead of the time needed to fix and patch what's there. Looking at getting the Sherwin Williams drywall primer. I want something that will bite into the joint compound and suck into it. The Valspar actually passed the tape test with only 12 hours drying time. The tape didn't blister and pull the paint off like the Behr. If I didn't put the blue painters tape on, the Behr was fine. I was able to sand it to get some of the grit and roller lint out of it and actually started to joint compound over some imperfections. Everything was going great until the blue painters tape was applied. Then the tape just blistered and pulled it away from the wall. I think I'll feel better with something from SW.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

cougar01 said:


> I did so yesterday. They asked if the compound was dry, and if the back of the peeled primer was gritty. If gritty, then we didn't clean the wall good enough before priming and there was too much dust on the wall for it to adhere. They offered a free replacement can of paint. At this point, it is such a mess in there that I think I'm just going to rip the drywall down and start over. I'm just not confident that the other areas will eventually adhere itself to the compound and plain wallboard. After topcoating, I will still need to put painters tape on so I can paint trim, etc, and I'd be afraid it will all pull off if the primer isn't strongly attached. Advice on a good primer? Valspar? Sherwin Williams? Should I put something like Gardz down first?
> 
> It's almost like the primer dried "on top" of the wall and didn't penetrate. Other than gutting everything and starting over, is there a way to remove all of the primer?


 
Now that is JUST what you need, oh boy.
Restraint , it is so hard!:yes:


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

chrisn said:


> Now that is JUST what you need, oh boy.
> Restraint , it is so hard!:yes:


Your doing well grasshopper. :wink:


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