# Outdoor Condenser Fan Stops After 10-15 minutes



## beenthere

Were the bearings tight on the old motor? Or did the shaft turn freely?

Is the new motor the same length as the old motor. If not, it may have the blade to low inside the unit, and short cycling the air.

Dirty condenser coil can cause the motor to over heat and lock out after 10 or so minutes. While the coil may look clean. It can be too dirty for the unit to work right.


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## theglobal

Thanks for your reply! I have been away for a few days. 

Actually, the old motor turned quite freely...no problem. The new motor is the same length as the old and was installed in a similar manner. Because the new motor has the same problem (cutting out after 10-12 minutes) I am wondering if I should have purchased the new motor. 

I cannot say whether the AC tech cleaned the condenser coils or not, as I was not at home when he "serviced" the unit. His invoice noted that he cleaned the contactor and coil, so I must assume he did. However...maybe I should clean them anyway. Do you have a recommendation on what works best for cleaning the condenser coils?

Assuming the coils are not an issue, and given that both motors are shutting down in a similar manner, are there any other possibilities that should be considered?

Again, thank you. I appreciate your help.


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## beenthere

Simple green work good.

If you have an electrical meter. The next time it stops running . Check if the motor is getting voltage.


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## theglobal

I started the unit, and the Voltage reading was 244 volts...this was a reading for the motor and compressor. When the motor stopped, the compressor was still pulling 244 volts. I am sure the fan motor cut out because of its thermal protection feature, as it was good and hot after only 8-9 minutes when it cut out.


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## beenthere

Sounds like the new fan is not an exact match to replace the old fan.


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## theglobal

I understand your point, but I don't think it applies in this case. Here is what I have on both the old and new motors.

Old motor:

GE 5KCP39DGS375S
1/6 HP
Voltage 208-230
FLA 1.0
HZ 60
Phase 1
RPM 1075
Length (less shaft) 5-1/8"
Body DIA. 5-5/8"
Capacitor 5MF/370V
Wiring: brn/whi, bla, brn, yel

New Motor:

AO Smith FSE1016SV1
1/6 HP
Voltage 208-230
FLA 1.3
HZ 60
Phase 1
RPM 1075
Length (less shaft) 5-1/8"
Body DIA. 5-5/8"
Capacitor 5MF/370V
Wiring: brn/whi, bla, brn, yel

As you will note, other than a slightly higher FLA in the AO Smith motor, they appear to have the same specs. Again, not to beat an old horse, but both the old and new motors cut out due to thermal protection shutoff. Changing to the new motor seems like it may have been a possible waste of money, insofar as it too, reacted the same as the old motor; namely a thermal protection shutoff after about 10 minutes of operation. So, does that lead us to another possibility? Any thoughts are most appreciated.


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## beenthere

Was the condenser motor changed out last year, or the year before also? maybe before you moved in?

Any possibility that the fan blade was changed sometime last year?

Are you sure its spinning the right way?

Can you post a pic of the motor. So that it shows the position of the fan blade while the motor is installed.


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## inetquestion

*Same problem.... What next?*

Any updates on this, I have the exact same problem. Techs have been at my house all freakin week and I still have no AC.

Day 1: Replaced fan motor due to old motor overheating and cutting off.

Day 2: Cleaned condenser and evap coils.

Day 3: replaced: start cap, run cap, potential relay.

Day 4: ripped out all the wires and started over.

Day 5: "We think you need a new fan motor"


The AC runs fine for 10 minutes then the fan cuts off because its too hot. If everything but the contactor and compressor have been replaced... what is next? The pressure on high and low side are within tolerance levels. This is a 3.5 ton lennox diplomat: 10ac42-3p


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## inetquestion

Day 5, visit 2: 

- went from 1/4 hp 875 rpm to 1/2 hp 1025 rpm
- removed potential relay
- removed run cap installed earlier in the week
- removed factor start cap
- installed a hard start kit (is there a relay inside?)

The sun is down now already, so it will be tomorrow before I know if this worked. A tech from a different company is scheduled to come out tomorrow as well. I waited way to long to call for backup...


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## Marty S.

inetquestion said:


> Day 5, visit 2:
> 
> - went from 1/4 hp 875 rpm to 1/2 hp 1025 rpm
> - removed potential relay
> - removed run cap installed earlier in the week
> - removed factor start cap
> - installed a hard start kit (is there a relay inside?)
> 
> The sun is down now already, so it will be tomorrow before I know if this worked. A tech from a different company is scheduled to come out tomorrow as well. I waited way to long to call for backup...


 Look at the units name plate. It will say what the hp is supposed to be. cozyparts.com can probabaly tell you the rpm needed since the sell lennox parts.


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## beenthere

The 1/2HP 1075 won't last long either. What brand is your outdoor uinit. Is it a Goodman.


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## Marty S.

Is there a "b" in that model number? I'm not familiar with a lennox 10ac but a 10acb-042-3p takes a 1/3rd hp 1075 rpm motor.


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## inetquestion

Condenser is a lennox 10AC42-3P. 

The factory service guide says it take a 1/6hp 875 rpm. However the panel on the condenser says it is a 1/4 hp.

What is in there right now is a 1/2hp 1025rpm. As of now it is still running and cooling, but I am holding my breath until the 90+ degree weather tomorrow kicks in.


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## theglobal

*theglobal's issue resolved*

As you will note from the thread, I had an old motor that stopped after about 10 minutes. The unit ran fine at the end of last summer. I had it "serviced" by a fellow with "years" of experience. The tech said the condenser fan motor was drawing 3.8 amps...etc..and that the motor was going to go out. He would replace the motor for $317. The first time I ran the unit this summer, the motor stopped after about 10 minutes. So, new motor, but I did not like the price, buying the new motor for $125 from a local supplier. I changed out the old motor. The new motor was installed exactly like the old motor. Alas, the new motor craps out after about 10 minutes. "beenthere" gave me great advice and I checked things out. Ok, old motor - new motor, both same specs, both installed the same, and both behave the same...thermal shutoff after 10 mintues. It turns out that when the tech serviced my unit he *wired the old motor wrong*. There is a brown/white wire that he connected to the capacitor...WRONG, totally wrong, and I, bening the newbie, connected the new motor exactly as the old motor had been connected...ALSO WRONG. In fact, the brown/white wire was not supposed to be used at all. It all started when I didn't like the price for a simple condensor fan replacement. 

As it turns out, I did not need the old motor replaced...most likely. Did the tech make a mistake when he "serviced" my AC, was he just stupid, or was he dishonest? I guess I will never know. I paid $68 more to have someone I found as a good reference through a friend to discover the problem. A special thanks to "beenthere". I appreciate your efforts to help me with this issue. Inetquestion, anything similar with your story? Good luck with an answer.


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## falconbrother

Did you discover this by checking the schematic diagram?


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## Marty S.

falconbrother said:


> Did you discover this by checking the schematic diagram?


Lennox split systems do not come with two wires for a capacitor so the motor was replaced at some point. Many new motors do not show the brown only option, they want both wires used with a seperate capacitor. No idea why but it is what it is.


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## theglobal

We had another tech take a look and he discovered the wiring issue. However, when you look at the schematic diagram you can see that the brown/white wire was not used.


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## inetquestion

After the first company failed to get my unit working for more than 10 minutes after 6 trips (over 4 days) I had to call someone else. As soon as he showed up, the just started cussing... He ripped out everything they had done all week and replaced the 1075 rpm motor because the spec called for an 825 rpm. He also replaced the fan blade because he said the one I had was a replacement and the original should have 3 blades and less pitch. I very well could have had a similar wiring problem as you mentioned, but he seemed to think the wrong rpm motor and wrong fan blade were the main culprits. 

Also - he took out the starting capacitor because he said the current draw of my compressor was not high enough to warrant having one. I thought this odd since it came from the factory with one installed on a 3.5 ton unit (Lennox: 10AC42-3P). Should I put that back on? The potential relay was removed as well... Its been working for over 1 week now...

-Inet


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## beenthere

Said back in post #12 it wouldn't last long.

Factory hard start kits are generally for efficiency increase. And the proper set up aids in compressor life. With a proper meter. He would be able to see that it basically draws LRA everytime it starts.

An improper wiring of the hard start kit, can wipe out your compressor. So if you reinstall it. Make sure you make no mistakes.


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## boman47k

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> After the first company failed to get my unit working for more than 10 minutes after 6 trips (over 4 days) I had to call someone else


Get charged the full price? If so, this why I hate to call anyone to work on anything.


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## inetquestion

unfortunately yes, and I'll take my lumps for not kicking them out sooner. 

When three guys are bent over your AC for day #2 this should have told me something sooner. As irritated as the whole thing made me, I was glad to be done with them. The did clean the inside and outside coils although this had absolutely nothing to do with the problem. :jester:


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## washicd

*condenser fan overheats-trips*

i was having the same problem with my york unit and chased every idea and bought every new electrical part in the loop. to shorten a long and frustrating story it was either 2 faulty motors (old one and 1st new one) or the slightly wobbly fan blade(my last idea). i feel fairly confident that the wobbly blade was causing more current draw and overheating the motor(s) where as the new blade(exact replacement) is smooth and quiet and the motor actually runs cool to the touch unlike the egg fryers before it. though i probably bought some unneeded equipment, never the less i spent less than i would have had i called the 'professionals'... and i am getting to be a pretty good york ac technician.


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## hvac5646

quit hi- jacking and start a new thread.


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## BW_LA

theglobal said:


> *theglobal's issue resolved*
> 
> As you will note from the thread, I had an old motor that stopped after about 10 minutes. The unit ran fine at the end of last summer. I had it "serviced" by a fellow with "years" of experience. The tech said the condenser fan motor was drawing 3.8 amps...etc..and that the motor was going to go out. He would replace the motor for $317. The first time I ran the unit this summer, the motor stopped after about 10 minutes. So, new motor, but I did not like the price, buying the new motor for $125 from a local supplier. I changed out the old motor. The new motor was installed exactly like the old motor. Alas, the new motor craps out after about 10 minutes. "beenthere" gave me great advice and I checked things out. Ok, old motor - new motor, both same specs, both installed the same, and both behave the same...thermal shutoff after 10 mintues. It turns out that when the tech serviced my unit he *wired the old motor wrong*. There is a brown/white wire that he connected to the capacitor...WRONG, totally wrong, and I, bening the newbie, connected the new motor exactly as the old motor had been connected...ALSO WRONG. In fact, the brown/white wire was not supposed to be used at all. It all started when I didn't like the price for a simple condensor fan replacement.
> 
> As it turns out, I did not need the old motor replaced...most likely. Did the tech make a mistake when he "serviced" my AC, was he just stupid, or was he dishonest? I guess I will never know. I paid $68 more to have someone I found as a good reference through a friend to discover the problem. A special thanks to "beenthere". I appreciate your efforts to help me with this issue. Inetquestion, anything similar with your story? Good luck with an answer.


Just had the same issue. Supply house told me to put the brown/white wire on the capacitor along with the brown wire. I did so, and whether I used the existing capacitor or the one they gave me with the motor, fan stopped after ~ 90 seconds while compressor and inside fan continued running. Seeing this post yesterday, I clipped the brown/white wire last night and the fan starting running correctly. This particular motor came with NOTHING in the way of wiring diagrams.


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## supers05

BW_LA said:


> Just had the same issue. Supply house told me to put the brown/white wire on the capacitor along with the brown wire. I did so, and whether I used the existing capacitor or the one they gave me with the motor, fan stopped after ~ 90 seconds while compressor and inside fan continued running. Seeing this post yesterday, I clipped the brown/white wire last night and the fan starting running correctly. This particular motor came with NOTHING in the way of wiring diagrams.


You had it miswired and shorting a portion of the motor. Make sure that the clipped wire is isolated and secured.


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