# Already removed door panel



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I have a 92' Ford Ranger Supercab with 2.9 V6. It has power windows and power locks. The driver side power window is not working properly. I can raise and lower it within 4 inches of the fully closed position. But once you lower it beyond a certain point, it seizes up.

I got the door panel off. I just have a few questions and I won't get too technical right now. I attached photos

1. I didn't find anything loose. I assume that I just need to install a new power window regulator/motor/hardware kit?

2. When I removed the door panel, I broke some of the push pins. But from the attached photo, it looks like I can just buy new push pins and press them into the plastic mounts. Do you agree?

3. What do I do with the plastic cover over the door cut outs? Do I replace it, or re-use it?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Not sure of the fix, but, yes, you can purchase a kazillon of those push pins for a good price and replace them all as you go.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Most auto parts stores will have those pins, there are several different types so just make sure you get the right ones. I normally just replace the broken ones and reuse the rest.

The plastic cover can be spot glued back in place or discarded. Look for something binding in the linkage. Normally the motor works or it doesn't.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Maybe I should just buy the regulator and hardware kit for now. Not too expensive.

I might leave the door panel off for awhile in case I decide to replace other part(s).

The driver side power door lock doesn't work either. I might replace that too. I've been using just the knob and door lock key for ages. The switch works. But the only other part I found online for power lock was _door lock actuator._ I didn't find anything listed as a door lock motor or other. I guess this actuator is the only other part besides the switch/control? My repair manual says very little about power lock parts.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Yes, be sure and put the plastic back over the door access openings....

I have put a few complete window regulator/motor assemblies in our Jeep Grand Cherokees we owned over the years . I found it very helpful to get on UTOOB and watch many videos of people changing them on our year JGC's.

Every vehicle has its quirks on window regs/motor replacements, and if one knows them going in from watching and hearing from others that have done it, it is good. 

The videos can save sliced up fingers, a broken window, breaking parts that did not need to have been broken. And the frustration of pushing on the window button once done and nothing happens or bad noises are heard. Good Luck


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

On Fords I have worked on, the motors were bad and it was easy to diagnois: nothing happened.

Your issue sounds different. Something is binding. 

Push pins are cheap, just buy a handful. The plastic sheet is a water shield. Glue it back on with adhesive spray.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Check the track alignment, sometimes the track vibrates out of alignment, and is still tight, but out of line and binds the pane from fully rising / lowering.

I f the motor was bad it would not function at all. 

As for the lock actuator, it is just an electro-magnet, that either pops up or down, depending on which way the switch directs the current.

You have two parts and the linkages. A switch, the actuator and linkages.

Sometimes the plastic keepers on the ends of the linkages age and break, allowing slack to get in the linkage and stopping function. Or the linkage falls from it's hole, making the system not work.

Does the actuator click when the button is pushed?


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Thanks for reminding me about the videos. You're right, some of these are very good.

The window also has considerable horizontal play...................more than the passenger side window. And I spent about 30 minutes taking a closer look inside the door cavity while cycling the window up and down.

There appears to be three vertical window tracks.......left, right, and center. That 'arm' thing on the regulator is attached to the center track with a rivet type gadget. Then there is a little wheel in the track_. 

I can't tell for sure_. But the rivet hardware seems to be be bent or crooked. Or is it supposed to be that way to allow for play? When the window seizes, I closely observe and the rivet/wheel hardware might be buckling.

The tracks themselves seem tight enough. And the motor is strong. Ed mentioned the possibility of the track being misaligned. How would you remedy that? Is the track permanently affixed to the door cavity?

As for the power door lock.........It actually still cycles up and down when I press the control button. And yes, it makes a clicking noise. The knob just doesn't move _enough _to engage the lock or unlock position.

What do you guys think?


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Could just need lubricating, after 26 years what was there tends to turn into hardened mud. if you wiggle it or help it up or down when it's trying to move does it unstick? Move it up and down and watch what happens when it stops. 

To reglue the plastic, use whatever caulk or construction cement you have around.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

When the window seizes, I have to 'help' it by pulling the glass upward while keeping the motor engaged. It becomes unstuck every time. 

Haaa. You read my mind. About 45 minutes ago I was tempted to spray some lubricant in there. Maybe white lithium grease.

I can only see a small amount of hardened lubricant in the track/wheel area.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

The lock mechanism needs the little plastic bushings replaced, these bushings get brittle and break, causing the symptoms you describe for the lock.

Find new bushings at the dealer or at L M C truck online.

Need to remove the regulator assembly to inspect the plastic wheel assembly, it might be wore down enough to cause the play, or even cracked, broken. And spray W D 40 on the wheel track to remove the old dried grease, then white lithium to re -lube it. 

If the thing works with your help, there is nothing wrong with the electronics at this time, but if you don't loosen it up, they will burn out soon.

You have a rear and front track for the glass to slide up / down in, then the horizontal bottom track for the regulator wheel to roll in.

All simple physics working in unison to operate the window.



ED 

Addition: The front and back tracks are held in by bolts at the bottom, and near the top of the cavity, if any of them has vibrated loose the track will be loose, causing the glass to "cock" crooked and bind up, look to see if any marks on the panel show signs of movement.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. Let me think about what part(s) to replace.

I've never worked inside the door cavity. Is it difficult to install parts in there? There is limited space for visual reference.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Depends on the size of your hands.

If oversized like mine, it's more difficult, but not impossible.

You find a way to manipulate the parts, with long needle nose pliers, socket extensions, or other reach tools. 

watch out for those sharp edges around the access holes, they bite, wrists, forearms, and knuckles.:vs_mad:


ED


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I have done two kind of jobs on windows: 1) replaced three lift motors and reset a window that got popped out of the track and slid all the way to the bottom of the door. (Window popped out because my then 4 year old daughter pushed on the window while I was raising it. POP! out it came.)

If it were me, I would slowly raise the window until it started binding. Use a mirror to look up in there. The regulator may need to be replaced or maybe it is a broken bushing/wheel in the track. To work on a regulator, you will probably have to remove it, so maybe just replacing the whole thing is the way to go. Never replaced a regulator assembly, since the motors can be replaced separately. (Never let the clerk at the store tell you that you have to replace the whole regulator assembly because the motor is bad. That's why they sell the motor separately. I have had to replace my wife's Windstar's lift motor three times (twice on the driver side) and I have it down to a 15 minute job, once the panel's off. 30 minutes total.)


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Seriously.....................about those sharp edges right? How bout' that toothed gear thing on the regulator? Looks like some serrated ninja martial arts weapon or something.

I need to look at LMC Truck and Rock Auto websites after work tonight. I'll reply again on Wednesday. Thanks for the great information.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Rangerxlt said:


> Seriously.....................about those sharp edges right? How bout' that toothed gear thing on the regulator? Looks like some serrated ninja martial arts weapon or something.
> 
> I need to look at LMC Truck and Rock Auto websites after work tonight. I'll reply again on Wednesday. Thanks for the great information.


The toothed semi-circle gear on the regulator is where the lift motor gear engages the regulator. Push the button, the little motor gear turns the big semi-circular gear and the window goes up or down.

Good point about the sharp edges. You are supposed to support the window at the top with strong tape or suction cups to prevent it from falling when you drill out the regulator rivets. A collapsing window regulator is like a guillotine for fingers! Be cautious.

On the Windstar, the window doesn't need to be supported to remove just the motor, as there is a big clockspring that holds the window up when you remove the motor. I assume that to remove the regulator, the window has to be removed from it first, pulled out through the top and then the regulator rivets drilled out. Then you have to wiggle it out that little hole in the door. It is a bear to remove a regulator.

Here is a guy taking one out.

https://www.google.com/search?q=remove+ranger+window+regulator#kpvalbx=1


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I think I'll replace these parts:

*Window Regulator*
*Door Lock Modulator*. (The rubber looking parts are crumbling off)
*Door Lock Linkage Retaine*r(plastic keeper). I have to get this at dealer
*Hardware Kit* (rivets, etc)
I'm also going to a Ford only junkyard to see if I can get a *Door Latch. *If they don't have one, I won't worry about it.

Could I ask you guys a few more questions?

1. How many plastic keepers do I need for the door lock linkage? I looked in door cavity. But I'm not sure.

2. Do I need any special tools to deal with the rivets or other hardware?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Rangerxlt said:


> 2. Do I need any special tools to deal with the rivets or other hardware?


Rivet removal requires a punch (to smack out the steel core of the rivet) and a drill to drill out the rivet head. Unless you have a rivet gun, usually the replacement regulator comes with nuts and bolts to install it.

Push pins and body clips can be pried out with a screwdriver but that usually destroys them. I was in Harbor Freight one day and found some specialty pliers for push pins and panel clips. Since they were less than $10 a piece, I bought them. Here's a video. They work pretty well, especially the push pin pliers.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Friends,

I'm not sure when I'll do this repair. A couple home repairs need to be done first. But I'll order my parts and make that trip to the junkyard. I'll report back if any further questions, or when the window/door lock repairs are done. Feel free to add anything. Thanks!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

There are several keepers involved on these, there is a rod from the actuator to the actual lock (2 keepers).
A rod from the lock to the finger push knob in the door at the elbow (1 keeper).
A rod from the pull handle to the lock ( 2 keepers).

The dealer sells these in a package of usually ten, so just buy the package, you do have at least 2 doors on the Ranger, and if one set of keepers are bad, the other doors keepers are right behind them.

Better to have some extras on hand than to not have them just in case.

They go in the hole, then the rod goes into them, then you turn the keeper to slip the clip part over the rod shaft, holding it all snug.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

This is good to know. Thanks Ed.

I think the dealer only sells them individually. Over 3 dollars a piece out here. But I'll ask when I go to the dealer. I couldn't find them on LMC Truck website


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Try E- bay, often I will find dealer parts there for a great price.

And at 3 $ each, that ain't a good price.



ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Tell me about it. Isn't that why some people use the term 'stealership?'

I'll check out Ebay and online again. I read all the responses thoroughly on this discussion too.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I just returned from looking at E-bay, found several there with prices for 20 clips for less than $10.00, so do your research there, I am surprised that L M C don't have any.


ED


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Just looked at J C Whitney, found these 15 clips for around $4.10 each.

Well I thought that I had a link, but it's gone.

Even they are proud of their stuff.

My point is that you can get them elsewhere than the dealer.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Well, that's better than paying over 3 dollars for one piece. I'll check out J C Whitney. I don't know if I'll find them make/model specific.

I might not have been looking in the right place on LMC Truck website. I was looking under door parts.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hi. I did not forget about you guys. Been busy. But I just ordered a couple more parts online for this. I will report back again.


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