# Protruding nails through exterior patio roof



## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

An angle grinder should do it. 

FWIW, I think code requires that roofing nails protrude through the roof deck, if it's less than 3/4" thick, so you can't blame the roofers for this one.


----------



## Mike Swearingen (Mar 15, 2005)

Looks to me like it would be better to just panel the underside, instead of grinding or cutting off the roofing nails. Those should protrude through a certain length anyway. T-111 pressure-treated 4'X8' panel siding would work fine, and it can be stained or painted, won't rot, etc., etc.
Mike


----------



## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

Put some T&G up there to cover the nails and beautify at the same time.


----------



## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

If you must remove them, and I do not advise this, because they are supposed to penetrate plywood by a "Minimum" of 3/8", then I have used a dremel tool with the metal cutting discs for tight quarters.

Ed


----------



## miami789 (Jun 19, 2007)

*Next Step?*

Great suggestions.

I am leaning towards covering the nails in the patio area with panels since I am concerned about staying up to code and ensuring that I don't weaken the roof. 

Three quick questions:

1. How much does a 4'x8' panel cost? (trying to get rough materials estimate - couldn't find 't-111' or 'panels' at home depot site)
2. Should screws or nails be used (rafter is about 1.5 " wide and about 4" high)?
3. What is the difficulty of the job? Can this job be done by a handyman or does it require professional installation?

The exterior patio roof slants down about 15 degrees and is approximately 22' by 14'. Thanks for your help guys.


----------



## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

T-111 is definitely available at HD or any lumberyard. Just keep asking until you find someone who knows what you're talking about (or go to a lumberyard, and get the answer the first time ). 

I'd probably use beadboard, myself. This is also available at HD or any lumberyard. It is tounge-and-grooved, and you would nail it diagonally through the tounge before sliding the next piece into place. I think this would give a better-looking installation, with no more work. 

I don't recall exactly how much I paid for T-111. I'd guess $40 for a 4x8' sheet. You'd have to check on bead board prices. One of the builders here can probably tell you a better approximation off the top of his head.

This should be well within the abilities of a skilled handyman.


----------



## pmaru77 (Dec 7, 2006)

*T-11*

for some reason it goes by the name of T-11, It is 26 bucks a sheet where the thickness is just over .50 inches. Sounds like you should be using the t&g boards that are approx 6" strips where you see typically on the underside of house eves.


----------

