# Problem with tapcon screws securing wood to brick fireplace wall



## provlima (Oct 7, 2017)

I am trying to secure a floating mantle shelf over a brick fireplace wall.

I used 2 3/4" 3/16 tapcon screws to secure the strip of wood to a brick wall but the wood strip did not hold securely

The tapcon 3/16" screws called for a 5/32 mortar bit hole which I used, but when I drilled the tapcon screws into the mortar they felt loose, as if the hole was too big.

Any guesses as to what might have gone wrong? Any suggestions as what type of fasteners would work better in securing the wood strip to the brick wall?


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

Yeah the 3/16 tapcons suck. Strip too easy and hole rounds out too large when drilling.

You could try the 1/4 tapcons. You should be drilling into mortar, not brick. Works better. And your screw should penetrate into at least 1" of mortar. Picking the right length- not too long not too short- is important.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

The 1/4 inch dia. tapcon is the best by far for the use in red brick.
The pull out data is 575 PSI i have done test on red brick pull out with Tapcon 1/4 inch 1&3/4 inch the lowest pull out was 400 PSI the high was 900PSI. The test was on a Theatre dated 1927. It should also be noted the torque on 1/4 inch tapcon is 10 FT-LBS for red brick.
If you have the soft red Salmon color brick you may need to switch to a Chem - Stud it uses an epoxy capsule the pull out will increase about 3 times. I have never used the mortar joint as most bricks have a PSI rating of 1600 to well over 5000 PSI. Most Type N brick mortar is 750 PSI Type S would be 2500 PSI


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I would have also used constrution adhesive in addition to the screws.
The 1/4" screws have a far deeper thread profile.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Install these in the mortar and move on. Just don't use a 1/2 dr. socket and breaker bar on them to tighten, as they will pop a mortar joint while over expanding them. I could not find any vertical load bearing specs on them. But I would sit my wife on a shelf held by these anchors...and that is saying something. JMO

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Red-Head-5-16-x-2-1-2-Sleeve-Anchor-Hex-Head-Single-Count/3043970


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Install these in the mortar and move on. Just don't use a 1/2 dr. socket and breaker bar on them to tighten, as they will pop a mortar joint while over expanding them. I could not find any vertical load bearing specs on them. But I would sit my wife on a shelf held by these anchors...and that is saying something. JMO
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Red-Head-5-16-x-2-1-2-Sleeve-Anchor-Hex-Head-Single-Count/3043970


Yes a Sleeve anchor 5/16 inch in concrete is rated @ 2,320 in 2000 PSI concrete


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*never had that problem,,, we use bosch bulldog w/sds bits rather'n jacobs chuck bits,,, they can spin in the chuck & drill elliptical / oversize holes 'specially if they run into hard mortar*


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Go outside and trim a limb off a bush slightly smaller then the hole. Put it in the hole then install the anchor. It will work very well. Can’t tell you how many electric boxes, clamps etc that I have done this way and they stay secure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

I used to have problems getting a tight connection with Tapcon to bricks or concrete. I since have switched to using 1/4" exclusively and that worked MUCH better. There are still exceptions when the holes are too small for 1/4" Tapcon such as brass drop ear elbows, some electrical boxes etc...I either enlarge the holes take my chances with 3/16 Tapcon.

Sharp new bits make a difference too.

I found that using a can of compressed air to blow out the dust at the bottom of the hole if the hole is downward or horizontal makes a difference.

Also bear in mind the holes can't be reused. Once you drilled a hole and thread a screw in, if you back it out you won't get the same holding power if you put in a same size screw.

I see some people use too long a screw. If it's concrete block you have to get the right length screw so the threaded part of the shank align with the depth where the material is.

If I drilled a hole on bricks or concrete if the screw spins, I would re-drill at a different location. If I can't move the hole, then I have had good luck by putting a few strands of copper wires into the hole - that worked for me 90% of the time. Another option I have used is to go up one size on the screw, or use Hammer set concrete nails.


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