# how to frame for bifold door



## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

I need to put a small utility closet around my water entrance in my basement, I dont want a full blown closet due to the space.. so I was thinking frame around it and put a bifold door, well on one side there is a wall, the other there is a window... I have 33" of space wide to work with and 3 ft from the back of the room to where I can stop framing out depth wise... I wanted to put a 24" bifold door so that would give enough room to work in the closet and get to the meter and its plumbing... one on the left end I want it to be flush with the wall (this is a frameless bifold, just drywall in this scenerio... then on the right side build a wall, and a wall on the top...

first question what do I rough it in at to do this with a 24" x 80" bifold, this is the one I want to put in

http://www.lowes.com/pd_80114-11813-80114_0_?productId=3179245&Ntt=24

Finish Opening Width (Inches)24.0
Finish Opening Height (Inches)80.0Height (Actual) (Inches)80.0Door Thickness (Inches)1.375

drywall is 1/2", have 33" to work with so that leaves me with 9" on the right side if this is flush with the perpendicular wall on the left side, but then 4" of that will be taken away from the width by the wall that goes backwards to the foundation wall... so that would leave me with a whole 4-5 inches, how would you suggest doing the framing? any other options? the space is limited... and I'd really like to enclose this so its not an eyesore in the room, thanks!


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

no takers on the question? or do you need anymore information?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

You would frame the opening just like a regular door with 2X4s and you can use 2X4s for the header as there is no weight to worry about. I assume you are getting the bifold doors with a track at top and pivot on the floor but if you are going to use hinged doors beware as the sheet rock will not work as a base for the hinges. Once you have the doors you will see easily how everything must work.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

jiju1943 said:


> You would frame the opening just like a regular door with 2X4s and you can use 2X4s for the header as there is no weight to worry about. I assume you are getting the bifold doors with a track at top and pivot on the floor but if you are going to use hinged doors beware as the sheet rock will not work as a base for the hinges. Once you have the doors you will see easily how everything must work.


Yeah, I'm going to get one that has the top track and bottom pivot point, but when framing for a 24" door, what is the width you frame for when it has no real frame, jus drywall? is it the width plus a little bit? or how would you calculate that?


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Wood half jambs? or wood full jambs? or drywall jambs?
Calculate the width of the door plus 2 inches for full jambs, width plus an inch for the others.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

jlhaslip said:


> Wood half jambs? or wood full jambs? or drywall jambs?
> Calculate the width of the door plus 2 inches for full jambs, width plus an inch for the others.


drywall jambs in this instance... what about height? the door says 77" should I still make it 80" finished? or should there be less of a gap on the top and bottom?


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

25 inches finish. No jambs, just sheetrock to sheetrock.
Height: 80" finish. I'm measuring mine but the door itself measures 78 1/2".

Those wooden ones from Lowes fits these openings. Figure for carpet or vinyl too. You have some hgt. adjustment on those doors.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If your bifolds have a track you will need to allow for wood at the top to fasten your track to or recess the track into the rock. If your bifolds have the pivots in the top and bottom you will need to allow for a wooden support for the top swivel or cut out the sheet rock and allow the pivot to recess unto the rock. If your bifolds are hinged on the side you will need to allow for wood to mount the hinges to as sheet rock won't work.


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