# suggestions on contructing a range hood



## jamiedolan

steve1234 said:


> Can anybody tell me how this is really supposed to be done?
> 
> Thanks


I have some ideas, but I am not positive I understand the design properly. So I drew a model for you with your dimensions. I think this is the base to what your describing, but I am not quite sure what the curved areas are suppose to look like, does that extend out past the dimensions that you gave or are the corners more narrow?









-Jamie


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## steve1234

Jamie-
Thanks for the sketch. Close but not quite. take a look at the attached. It's not to scale but I think it explains what I'm doing. The dims I provided were estimates.


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## jamiedolan

steve1234 said:


> Jamie-
> Thanks for the sketch. Close but not quite. take a look at the attached. It's not to scale but I think it explains what I'm doing. The dims I provided were estimates.


If I were you, I would draw out the entire thing with exact dimensions in sketchup. 

I would start with building the base out of 2x4's and building a frame out of 2x4's as well that run up to the top of the hood, then in the front, I would run 1x1's out to the edge where the of the sloped area is, then I would attach a 1/2x1" furring strip horizontally to the 1x1's. Repeat every 6 inches. Then attach 1/4" flex drywall by screwing it to the horizontal 1x1 strips. 

Drawing this up to the exact dimensions in sketch will allow you to see what the exact cut needs to be on the drywall, that is going to be the hardest part. 

Did I lose you with that?

Jamie


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## bjbatlanta

OR instead of 2x? material, use plywood ripped to the proper width and cut your curve profile. Laminate two pieces of 3/4" together to get your 2x dimension. Agree with the 1/4" drywall.


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## steve1234

Thanks for the input. It sounds like you don't think a plywood surface is required first before applying the 1/4" rock? I like the horizontal furring strips...that should provide a better base so I get a more smooth profile when the drywall is installed. I seems like I could tie the furring strips together where the curved surfaces meet. That's one area of concern in that I want the structure tied together. 

Laminated ply to replace the 2x?....nice. The ply should be a bit easier to cut a smooth profile on.


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## jamiedolan

steve1234 said:


> Thanks for the input. It sounds like you don't think a plywood surface is required first before applying the 1/4" rock? I like the horizontal furring strips...that should provide a better base so I get a more smooth profile when the drywall is installed. I seems like I could tie the furring strips together where the curved surfaces meet. That's one area of concern in that I want the structure tied together.
> 
> Laminated ply to replace the 2x?....nice. The ply should be a bit easier to cut a smooth profile on.


You don't have to have a continuous area that you screw the drywall to, it can span some area, you just need points to attach it to frequently enough that it holds it in place for your curved area. So either vertical cuts of plywood or horizontal strips, either one can be spaced out at least around 6 inches.

Jamie


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## bjbatlanta

The 1/4" rock should bend to your radius pretty easily. You'll want to use two layers, by the way. You can wet it a bit to help it bow. Lean it against a wall for a couple of days before you're going to use it and it will tend take on a natural bow. (Especially if you have an unfinished basement space that is a bit on the humid side.)


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## steve1234

thanks for all the input. Attached are a couple of bad pics taken with a phone. There was a slight change in plans since the original post. The hood will now have a plywood skin applied on the frame overwhich a copper sheet will be applied. Any recommendations on the guage of copper to use? I'm looking for something thin enough (aka cheaper) to easily conform to the curve, but not too thin to dent/crinkle like foil.


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## steve1234

Got the power pack in, vented, wired, frame complete, and plywood "skin" on. Now on to the copper....


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## clasact

nice job steve was wondering how this was going to turn out.I have a couple of big convection ovens I need to make a hood for and if I use that design just cut the top portion down I think it will work just fine by the way what size on the plywood I would think 1/2 inch or less to get the bend in it? One more thing did you or are you going to cover the inside with anything to keep the heat from the wood?


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## steve1234

thanks. Plywood for the frame is all 3/4". The "skin" is 1/4" (nom)....thin enough to make the curve, but stiff enough to not "flatten" out where the screws attach it to the frame. As for the inside, the insert is all stainless, see the pic. 

I still need to put something along the bottom horizontal edge of the frame to cover the stainless flange / wood transition. Two decorative korbels (sp?) will also be added to the wall / hood.


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## clasact

sorry for all the questions but that really looks good and what I need also and I dont like the price of a custom hood so if you dont mind my asking where did the insert come from and how many cfm is it.The way it is made all you would have to do is wrap your copper around the edge maybe even tuck it behind the insert


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## steve1234

We chose a Kobe insert. There are a few other manufactures that make a similar insert, but Kobe appears to fit our needs and the price was more reasonable (relatively). I believe it's "Vent-a-Hood" that is the popular brand. Our intended range requires 600cfm min. The Kobe claims 700CFM. The others we looked at were 1200cfm, but more costly. 

http://www.koberangehoods.com/product/IN-026.html

We were (still are) working with a tight budget on our remodel, but another way to go is with a similar insert but use an external blower unit. This is suppose to be much quiter as the noise source (fans) are not mounted in the insert rather further upstream near the exhaust side of the ducting system.


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## steve1234

sorry, forgot this part...

by reasonable...the insert was just over $700. I also installed the optional liner which is just a bigger stanless frame for the insert. I think that is normally about $130. My dealer gave me this one because a corner weld failed. Nothing that a little reinforcement corner gusset applied to the non-visible side with a little JB Weld couldn't fix. 

Other brands of similar inserts were in the $1200+ range.


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## jbrinsfield

steve, what ever happened to this project?? I am thinking of undertaking something similar and any tips or afterthoughts you may have would be appreciated!


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