# Possible to fix wrong size electrical box cuts? See Pics



## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

depending on how large the gap is you can just mud and tape it


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Horrable job of cuttig out, but not worth trying to fix. Just use bigger covers.
They come in three differant sizes. Big, bigger and oh my god what have you done.


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## jdm001 (Nov 6, 2009)

Yeah I planned on using an oversized box, but it wasn't big enough lol. I was thinking possibly some decorative design under the wall plate, ive seen it before somewhere. 

Where can I find the OMG what have you done wall plate lol

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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Lowes, HD should have them.
They will be 3/8" larger then a standard cover.


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## wrongdave (Dec 19, 2012)

Easy repair, use "lightweight spackle" to fill it. You can put it on thick and it dries much quicker and is far less likely to crack.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

I always used self adhesive mesh tape and mud around bad cuts with good results but that remodel box needs pristine wall board cut just right in order to remain solid in the wall.


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

use hot mud, will be called ez-sand and comes in 20, 45, 90, min.
Just add water and mix it to a creamy workable mixture, and pack around the box.
Do not get it inside the box and on the electrical connections.
In 1 - 2 hours will be able to apply a second coat.
Try to make first coat smooth or a little shallow, second coat smooth and flat... despite it's name, you can sand it smooth but not the easiest stuff to sand. So do not leave a lot of sanding.

Hot mud has a lot of body and strength to it, not as much as plaster, more then regular mud, and will work fine in this situation. Have used this method for years and never a problem with it.

Pictures can be deceiving, If they are over 3/4", then will need to tape and mud.
Which is fine, just means will need 3 coats of mud, need to feather it out in a larger area to disappear the patch.
I would not even consider replacing the drywall for this issue.


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## jdm001 (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks for all the help everyone. I used the quick set mud with a brace... I cut out a "c" shape on the really bad one, and an I shape on the other. 

Braced it with a piece of plywood, and then mudded (nothing over 1/4" so didn't need mesh or tape either).

Pictures of work in progress attached.

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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

I feel bad hear ... I just suggested you mix hot mud and fill in as was.
You cut out and made patches, is now bigger then original issue ... now you need tape.

Left as is in original photo, just needed to pack it with hot mud.
Since you changed it from original photos, now you need tape.
I would not run mud over those joints without tape ... they will fail and crack out.
I hope I did not confuse you in some way ... we now see in first photo's pack it with mud.
In second photos where you fixed it till was broke ... you need to add tape and 3 coats mud and blend it in ... or it will crack on the joints.


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## jdm001 (Nov 6, 2009)

funfool said:


> I feel bad hear ... I just suggested you mix hot mud and fill in as was.
> You cut out and made patches, is now bigger then original issue ... now you need tape.
> 
> Left as is in original photo, just needed to pack it with hot mud.
> ...


Ah I wrote that wrong, I did use the mesh, I didn't use tape. But, it was similar to a butt joint, a small 1/4" gap at most. 

I put the mesh on when I was doing the mud, so it's covered in the last pictures.

The last pictures are a thin first coat. I did have a bit of a lip so that's why one was feathered out so far. Ill level it out on 2nd coat and then do a light sand and a final coat and sand. I think it'll end up okay.

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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Next time you do drywall, use the paint trick to mark where the boxes are on the wall, when you do a test lay of the board. You paint the edge of the box, lay the board against, tap to allow the marking, pull back away, cut the hole, and perfect every time.

Also, just knowing where the box is, rotozip around the box inside where it sits, perfect every time. It is just taking the time, and you will get it right every time.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> Also, just knowing where the box is, rotozip around the box inside where it sits, perfect every time.


really ? i have been zip'n the outside of the boxs.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If this ever happens again they make a "patch" for lack of a better word that is for this very thing. It is cut out for the plug or switch sticks on the wall, skim coat and done. No tape no butts, just skim and sand. I am not sure but I think you can get them at allwall,com or at the local drywall supplier, I don't know who makes them.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Fix'n it said:


> really ? i have been zip'n the outside of the boxs.


You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.


i will try that, someday. i am done with drywall for a while.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

gregzoll said:


> You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.


When I use a roto-zip. I plunge into the center of the box, move to a side, pull back and go outside the box. Then zip around the outside.


I used the Blindmark tool while hanging rock. With the Blindmark tool, you insert the magnet in the box (it has a nub that fits into the screw hole at the top and the bottom). you then tack up the rock, and use the other magnet to find the outlet boxes. Trace around the magnet, then use a rorozip tool to cut the line out. The secret to this is that the outside magnet (the finder) is about as big as the box itself. If you follow the line you made, your rotozip tool will be cutting around the outside of the box. As an added measure of safety, the magnet you install inside the box covers all of the wires as well.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

That box in the first pic is an "old work" box. The tabs at top and bottom go outside the rock.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

Originally Posted by *gregzoll*  
_You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be._

_the trick is, learning when you need to run the rotozip clockwise or counterclockwise_


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

coupe said:


> Originally Posted by gregzoll http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/pos...cuts-see-pics-167148-post1079064/#post1079064
> You zip around the inside, then clean up by going just around the outside edge if need be.
> 
> the trick is, learning when you need to run the rotozip clockwise or counterclockwise


Actually the trick is knowing how to use the tool, or tools at hand, to make the proper cuts.

Before rotozips, it would be measure twice, cut once, or use the pait trick.


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## jdm001 (Nov 6, 2009)

gregzoll said:


> Actually the trick is knowing how to use the tool, or tools at hand, to make the proper cuts.
> 
> Before rotozips, it would be measure twice, cut once, or use the pait trick.



Ill second that. I have only done drywall a few times. I heard lipstick, not paint. I put it on the box, but it didn't come out great (I kept getting double lines for some reason).

I also did a marker (a long nail in a piece of wood pressure fit into box). I knew where center was, I tried to roto zip with a friends tool..... Holy crap! That thing was so fast, buzzing and bouncing on the inside. I scratched the crap out of the plastic box, and then nicked the wall when taking the tool out. I was terrible! Lol

I now use similar to that box, but I have one that goes into the box and has 6 small pegs (about 1-4" long, looks like thumbtac pins). 

When you line up the drywall, you slap it and the pins stick into the drywall and the whole thing sticks on the sheet.

I then lay it face down and cut it with my drywall saw. Works great each time.

I think this is a picture of one (can't see the pins on the front due to angle):

Http://img.diynetwork.com/DIY/2005/08/04/dit312_4fa_lg.jpg

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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

the metal boxs are easy to zip. the plastic ones, if your not carefull, you will burn the plastic.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

jdm001 said:


> I think this is a picture of one (can't see the pins on the front due to angle):
> 
> Http://img.diynetwork.com/DIY/2005/08/04/dit312_4fa_lg.jpg


The picture you posted looks more like the Blindmark tool with the magnets.










Like this



































df


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## jdm001 (Nov 6, 2009)

rjniles said:


> The picture you posted looks more like the Blindmark tool with the magnets.
> 
> Like this
> 
> df


Ah you're right. This is the exact one I got "Handymark" on amazon. 

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000V5MPZM

Mixed reviews, but sounds like reviewers weren't lining up before using. 

My first use I realized if I moved it into place or even swung it in, it might be a little off. I had great luck doing this:

First I lined up the top or bottom and put the edge in place while the bottom/top closest to the marker box hovering about an inch from the wall. I the even out the whole sheet 1" off wall and then bring back to wall so it's flat (perpendicular not swung in) and the box marks and usually sticks in too.

Easy to find, and then connect the dots to cut.

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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Actually I don't use that Blindmark tool any more. What I do is put a mark on the floor directly below the box and write next to it the measurement up to the center of the box. Hang the drywall sheet from the top and leave it loose at the bottom. The box prevents it from going back to the studs. Measure up from the mark on the floor the distance I wrote. Plunge with the roto-zip and cut the box. Push the drywall back to studs and screw off.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

I can't tell you how many times I've had wire cut from someone using a Roto-Zip to trim around the inside of a box.


Sure, the wires _should _be set back deep in the box, but sometimes they're not. How do you know? They are covered by the rock....


*Cutting inside the box is a BAD practice.*


Shallow the bit in the Roto-Zip, cut around the outside of the box and you'll never do any damage.


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

in newer remodeliing they have these new boxes that have 1 inch flanges all around them that you tape the vapor barrier to and you have to cut all around the flange so you dont disturb the vaper barrier seal , if you dont cut around the flanges the sheetrock gets bulged from the flanges so you have to cut around the flanges which leaves a 1 inch gap all around the box that needs to be filled with durabond and taped . no big deal .


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202343...d=10051&N=5yc1vZapww&R=202343468#.UNsXbHmSWwk

I have used these,and i think they work great.


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