# Beadboard Porch Ceiling Sealing



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Just a couple thoughts here. I can't say that I have ever applied spar urethane to Douglas fir before so don't take this as gospel. I've applied to other woods such as pine, oak, and poplar.

Personally, I like to stain and clear coat on the ground. It's just much easier with gravity in your favor. I would apply two coats of urethane on the ground. Then, once installed on the ceiling, fill all the nail holes, make sure the boards are nice and clean, and apply that final coat.

If you have a carpenter doing the job he will complain that the coats of urethane already on the wood will dull his miter saw. I'm not sure that's really true, but, many carpenters refuse to install wood if it has urethane already on it. I think it's bunk.

As for the twisting, that's fairly common with any wood as it dries out in your environment. Of course, if it twists too much, it becomes difficult to install. As long as it's only a few pieces, I'd say you're in pretty good shape.


----------



## fisher57 (Aug 30, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> Just a couple thoughts here. I can't say that I have ever applied spar urethane to Douglas fir before so don't take this as gospel. I've applied to other woods such as pine, oak, and poplar.
> 
> Personally, I like to stain and clear coat on the ground. It's just much easier with gravity in your favor. I would apply two coats of urethane on the ground. Then, once installed on the ceiling, fill all the nail holes, make sure the boards are nice and clean, and apply that final coat.


That was my plan, 2 coats in the garage, a third after installation. I wasn't planning on filling nail holes since the wood will be stained. Should I be? I was just going to spar right over the stainless steel nails.


----------



## fisher57 (Aug 30, 2014)

Actually, I misspoke. The 16 ga. ss ringshank nails will be over the tongue, so it's unlikely the spar will cover anything there.


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

fisher57 said:


> Actually, I misspoke. The 16 ga. ss ringshank nails will be over the tongue, so it's unlikely the spar will cover anything there.



And that's a good thing fisher57. Filling nail holes is messy and time consuming. You certainly have things under control!


Sent from my iPhone using diychatroom.com


----------



## fisher57 (Aug 30, 2014)

Kind of a follow up question here. 

While staining the beadboard I couldn't get all of the stain out of the beaded grooves. The darker color in the grooves is okay, but I'm concerned because so many people say you can't allow any excess stain to dry on the wood. This would be a small amount, and I'm hoping if I give it an extra day or two after it's all stained to dry out completely, that it won't be an issue for the Spar Urethane afterward.

Any experience with this?


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

fisher57 said:


> Kind of a follow up question here.
> 
> While staining the beadboard I couldn't get all of the stain out of the beaded grooves. The darker color in the grooves is okay, but I'm concerned because so many people say you can't allow any excess stain to dry on the wood. This would be a small amount, and I'm hoping if I give it an extra day or two after it's all stained to dry out completely, that it won't be an issue for the Spar Urethane afterward.
> 
> Any experience with this?



It should be fine as long as its good and dry. What can happen with excess stain is that when you apply the varnish it will lift the stain that has not absorbed into the first coat of varnish. On a large scale, this could compromise the integrity of the finish. If the non absorbed stain is only in the grooves, I don't think you will have a problem. 

When you start to apply the varnish you will know if the stain is lifting or not. The excess stain will start to discolor the varnish in the bucket as you dip your brush. A small amount of this is no big deal. If you wanted to be extra cautious, you could wipe the grooves with a rag dampened with mineral spirits after the stain has had time to dry. This will take off any stain that didn't absorb before the varnish goes on. 

Most likely it will be fine if you give the stain enough dry time. Just curious, what kind of stain are you using?


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

If this is a porch ceiling why do they need to acclimate?They will be exposed to humidity changes and different weather daily.I would have sealed the backside of them and put them up as soon as I received them.They are a lot less likely to twist or cup when in place and fastened.
If your finishing them before you put them up you better be very careful.A bunch of spar varnish in the tongues and groove will make the installation rough to say the least.


----------



## fisher57 (Aug 30, 2014)

The reason for acclimating the wood is to achieve an appropriate moisture content. If the warehouse where the wood was dried kept the wood at a low mc, it will expand when it hits the higher humidity outside. Even more so f the wood was kiln dried. You want the expansion to take place before you install it so it doesn't expand and pop after.

Some people say if you install when it's humid, install tight. If you install when it's drier outside, install loose so it will have room to expand the next summer. I don't want to install it loose, and it's humid now so I think it will work perfectly. The twisting only seems to be on a couple of boards. Maybe they came to me that way.

As for the urethane making it too tight, you're supposed to apply two thin coats. I'll have to be real careful, if I get any on the tongues at all. Thanks:huh:


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I understand what acclimating wood is.I have been in the business for many years.
My point is that's going on a exposed porch ceiling.Not in the house.
Most fir lumber as you're using is dried to somewhere between 11 and 15 % at most.
What if you have a hot day tomorrow and it's 95degrees out wit a RH of 80%.
This winter it may be 0 degress with a RH of 40%.
It's outside and wood moves .you're not going to s top it.
It's an uncontrolled inviorment that this wood is going to be in.
It is not the same as a floor in you house that is controlled by a thermostat.


----------



## fisher57 (Aug 30, 2014)

These are all things I'm concerned about, and since I've never installed anything like this outside I don't know what to expect. The forums here are really helpful for getting ideas and professional advice. I appreciate your comments a lot. Hope to be installing very soon. Thanks


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Did not want to sound sharp.Understand your concern. You're spent lots of money and want to get it right.It's you're home.
Just trying to give some advice from years of experience.


----------

