# New Trimwork: Chair Rail, Wall Frames (Wainscoting) And More



## 12penny

Interesting....what sort of detail do you call that above the entry door.


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## Rock8Reno

I forget the actual type of header it is, but it's a entry door header crown. I followed the design out of a trim book I purchased which I have been using as a guide. I understand that type of header usually isn't used with that type of door casing, but the casing already existed and I wanted to make the door trim on that particular one stand out since it was the main entry (foyer) and the wall above it is quite high so it needed something.

I realize the wall frames look messy right now since I wanted to smooth out/repair any imperfections in the drywall so that it looks like wood wainscoting once it's all painted one color, all the extra attention to detail will pay off in the end.

I've decided on a Sherwin Williams color - *Summer White*, it's a very smooth, neutral, creamy off white and it's very similar to the almond switches/receptacles I will be using so they will blend in and dissappear which is what I wanted.


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## 12penny

gotta say i've never seen it done like that before. In my experience that piece of head casing would be eliminated and the casing legs would terminate into the bottom of the pediment. Not sayin it looks bad, just looks ....wrong.


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## Rock8Reno

12penny said:


> gotta say i've never seen it done like that before. In my experience that piece of head casing would be eliminated and the casing legs would terminate into the bottom of the pediment. Not sayin it looks bad, just looks ....wrong.


Which is what I stated, they really aren;t supposed to go together, but I didn't want to remove the casing. So if it doesn't look bad, then who cares. There won't be too many finish carpenters analyzing it in person, except for my wifes brother-in-law who will be coming to install some windows, I'm sure he'll point it out to me and any other things I did 'wrong' lol. That being said, I have seen some finish carpenters do it this way, not many, but I have seen a few through google searches.

I guess I should've sensed the sarcasm when you asked what it was.


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## 12penny

As long as you're happy, all that matters. Send pics after paint is on. That'll dress it up a lot.


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## Rock8Reno

12penny said:


> As long as you're happy, all that matters. Send pics after paint is on. That'll dress it up a lot.


At the same time I also don't want a finished end product that looks stupid, or sloppy. The latter shouldn't happen since, at the very least, I'm very particular with any work I do. I am most likely changing out the entry door, so that would be a good time to change/revise that header if it's worth the trouble. 

I def will post updated pics when it's all painted. Still have a lot of prep work (filling holes, sanding, caulking) before any paint goes on, can't wait for that.


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## Rock8Reno

A few updates.

As I was redoing the trim on the other side of the staircase stringer, I decided I might as well fix the stairs themselves and give them a new look.

They creaked a lot, and a few of the treads near the bottom of the stairs actually had a lot of movement in them. For some reason a few of the treads are made up of two pieces and flex downward when stepped on. Fixed that by nailing at an angle, some small brads with my nailer nailing the two pieces together then filling the holes with wood filler.

Going with black painted treads and handrail, haven't decided if the post will be black or be painted in the light cream colors all the trim/wainscoting/risers/stringers will be.

Here are a few before pics after removing some quarter round trim on the stringers before adding and building up with a 4" board.




















After


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## Rock8Reno

My solution for transitioning tall baseboard trim into the staircase stringer/trim.


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## tcleve4911

Hey Rock
You're doing some great work there.
You have really brought that stair way back to a wonderful showpiece.

but...........I have to agree with the front door detail.











It looks like a head casing stuck on top of a head casing. 
It doesn't look like one piece.

I would remove the old head casing, square off the two jamb casings and then drop that new header detail down to become the head casing.
You can use a 1/2" bead to mate the non matching trim profiles.










That's just my opinion and was not meant to be harsh.
Just instructive criticism.:thumbsup:


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## Rock8Reno

I appreciate the comments good and constructive.

I am replacing the entire front door and installing a storm door too, so the trim will come off and be replaced. Maybe I can salvage the detail and reuse it the right way. It was more practice than anything for the time being. Thanks!


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## DangerMouse

It makes me wonder what's behind the top casing they were hiding? :laughing:

DM


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## Rock8Reno

DangerMouse said:


> It makes me wonder what's behind the top casing they were hiding? :laughing:
> 
> DM


Clean, perfect drywall. :thumbsup:


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## DangerMouse

It certainly looks to be an add-on after the fact to me though... quite odd indeed.

DM


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## Rock8Reno

DangerMouse said:


> It certainly looks to be an add-on after the fact to me though... quite odd indeed.
> 
> DM


You're obsessing over my 'strange' Neo-Classical Casing. I get it, I'll fix it eventually when the new door goes in. :ninja:


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## Rock8Reno

Caulking around each frame piece edge(outer and inner) make the frames look like they are molded into the wall and will make a big difference once everything is painted all one color. It's time consuming but worth it.


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## Rock8Reno

Started adding wall frames in the basement. Chair rail existed already and was at a certain higher height since I wanted the chair rail to disappear behind the plasma tv. Used a different layout in the basement than the other frames I did in the main floor. As the main floor, chair rail down to baseboard will be all one color and should really brighten up the basement especially since there is only one small window in the space.


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## 12penny

....any rhyme or reason to size, proportion and layout?


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## tcleve4911

........too busy for me......

just my 2¢


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## Rock8Reno

Since the chair rail was higher than normal, I didn't want to use a layout of large boxes and figured I would try this layout. The stupid vertical register was the influence of this layout. I know it's busy, but once all painted it shouldn't look as busy as it does now. Is it the 2 contrasting shapes that you guys don't care for?


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## tcleve4911

it's not the contrasting shapes.......it's the busyness of too many panels

Larger panels make the room look larger










Too many panels makes your eye look at more pieces and makes the area seem smaller.

This is just aesthetic and design stuff.
Your workmanship is dead-on...:thumbsup:


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## Rock8Reno

They are just glued on right now, haven't nailed any of them. Yes, I cut a lot of pieces and was dreading having to caulk all those sides, so I will take a look at it and try larger boxes, I see what you're talking about. I can use a half inch board around the register (like I did with the receptacle) since it would be right in the way of the larger wall frame layout.

I can probably use some of the pieces I don't use in the new layout elsewhere(still need to do this in the bedroom).

I love doing extra work for nothing lol.

So what if I combined the two smaller(narrower) frames above each of those lower wider frames? Think the two frame layout will look ok?

Sort of like the pic below, but actually the opposite.


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## DangerMouse

Rock8Reno said:


> You're obsessing over my 'strange' Neo-Classical Casing. I get it, I'll fix it eventually when the new door goes in. :ninja:


Obsessing? Nah, I don't live there. Doesn't matter to me how it looks, if you like it, that's all that matters. If you don't, change it. 

DM


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## Rock8Reno

Haha, just busting. I have changed a lot of the new work a few times, so it may be me that's obsessing over things.

But it's good, because in the end it comes out right/better. So thanks.


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## DangerMouse

It'll all blend together better after painting. Po)

DM


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