# Bathroom remodel (sheetrock wall question)



## williamwiens (Nov 13, 2010)

if you are going to have to mud the walls anyway, why not just cut the section out at 4ft width or height.
betcha the end result is much better...less work too.


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

What do most people do in this situation? The less cost and work for me the better but I want it to be right also.


----------



## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

If you just tore the paper a little just brush some Zinnser Guards over it. It seals the area. Then skim coat it 2-3 times. How bad is the damage? Post a pic. You will get better advice.


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

Honestly, after thinking about it, it will probably be faster and easier to just take off that section and put on new.


----------



## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Probably a good idea. Removong time from drywall and trying to salvage a $5 piece of drywall does seem like a lott of work. Removing tile will cause a lott of damage.


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

How do you recommend taking of the sheetrock now? Should I take off tile first or score it and just tear it all off at once?


----------



## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

cut the corners with a utility knife. Then knock a holeor 2 in the wall. Then start tearing it off. just a reminder...post a picture of what youa re doing. You will better advice.


----------



## lrobertstoner (Mar 18, 2011)

you can repair the the damage with tape and float it out 
if you are going to orange peel the wall later this is a cheap way 
remember if ya half ass it it is half assed 
i would do my demo first getting my walls down to a rough start
then if it was only a piece of paper here a piece there , 
i would repair finish out and texture
if it took chunks of rock out with the tile i would repalce the sheet and have a fresh start


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

There is just too deep of holes in some so total rip out is necessary. 
Back to tear out though. Should I just leave the tile on the sheet rock and tear?


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yep, just knock a hole with a hammer through both, stick the hammer claws through the hole and yank. It may come down in small pieces (especially if the drywall is glued to the studs), but it will come down. Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves. The tile can shatter and send small pieces flying and the broken edges are sharp and can cut you.


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

I took down all the walls and am going to use new blue rock. I have run into a little craziness that can be solved but want some opinions. One of the things was some electrical wiring had been spliced behind the wall with only tape and no box. Got that fixed so no problem anymore. The other problem is the air vent that runs up to the attic is causing a little problem. I always wondered why my sheet rock always seemed to have a little bulge behind my toilet (that is where the vent is). Well, the vent actually sticks out almost a half inch past the 2x4 which they used for walls there. They had bent the sheet rock somehow and molded it against the pipe. What do you think would be the best way to go about with the new sheet rock? Just curious what others would do. Thanks.


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

You can run strips of 1/2" material on the studs to furr the wall out.


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

Okay, let me see if I can explain why this my not work to do that. The tub is about18" away from the toilet. The guy that built the bathroom made it exactly 60" wide and 12' long. The tub I have is 60" long. 59 1/2" of wall won't work. Ideas?


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Can you post a picture?---What size vent pipe? can you change the vent location or size of pipe?


----------



## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Cement board may be a better choice for the shower walls. I am not an expert. Maybe someone else can provide an opinion.


----------



## Blondesense (Sep 23, 2008)

beerdog said:


> Cement board may be a better choice for the shower walls. I am not an expert. Maybe someone else can provide an opinion.


Beerdog has a point. Proper procedures for shower walls will be different. They need a level of waterproofing that the regular walls don't. To get accurate advice people here need to know what walls you are talking about.


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

the shower wall can be sheetrock because I am using onyx to cover it.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Can you progressively furr out the wall opposite the tub side, to the corner? May not work if ever installing tile or pattern on floor where it would be noticeable... Will not work at door.
Could cheat 1/4" by dadoes at the back of drywall exactly at high side of pipe, utility knife and chisel/gouge. Only 1/4" off in end.

Gary


----------



## lrobertstoner (Mar 18, 2011)

*vent problem*

i would ask does this pipe go all the way back to the other wall or is there some working room if so set back the duct work or you can replace it with a more friendly unit that will fit inside your wall
see how that works for ya


----------



## ingeborgdot (Mar 30, 2008)

Almost, but there is the floor joist that is holding it up from moving back any farther. I already looked at that situation.


----------

