# Concrete Footing Pour and Post Base Installation



## GuyJ (Oct 12, 2011)

I've successfully passed my footing inspection and now have my freshly cut out holes hug for my new solid patio cover. 










(the holes have since been dug and concrete forms built)

I'm now wondering what method I should use to anchor the posts. I'm building to my city plan, and this is the guidance they give:










I personally would like to pour the new footings level with the rest of the patio slab, so option A. is not my favorite. Options D and E are out for obvious reasons.

My initial inclination was to go for option B using a Simpson Strong Tie CB44 placed into the new footings, but I am getting worried now that this might be the wrong way to go. I'm just not all that confident with my ability to perfectly align those brackets into freshly poured footing. 

Option C would be nice, but I do not have the requisite 6" inches between the top of a 1" post base and grade. I'm assuming this requirement is due to the untreated post, so I'm thinking that If I use a treated post with an adjustable post base I would be good to go. 

Does anyone have any recommendations or advice? I'm also looking for some advice on the proper method of installing either the post base, or the anchor bolts in the concrete. I've already done my fair share of jack hammering on this job and I'm hoping to not have to do anymore!

And finally, I was hoping to get advice on the joint between the old slab and the new footing. I'm worried that if I simply pour the footing right up next to the existing slab and try to essentially mold them into one, I will end up with unsightly cracks down the road. Should I maybe grind down the sides of the existing slab before the pour into a pseudo rounded over appearance, and then use the edge tool when finishing the footing on all four sides? 

I would just hate making a dumb mistake at this juncture.

-Guy


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

> I would just hate making a dumb mistake at this juncture.


Too late, you already did.
I don't mean to be harsh but why did you not make the footing and slab pour all at the same time as shown on B & C?

Now your best bet in my opinion is to drill holes into the sides of the slab to install re-bar and bend them into the footings, tie in to the footing re-bar.

Andy.


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## GuyJ (Oct 12, 2011)

AndyGump said:


> Too late, you already did.


Luckily I'm not a complete moron, as the slab was poured over twenty years ago.. But my brother in-law mentioned the re-bar, so thanks for the concurrence of that idea.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

> as the slab was poured over twenty years ago


Oh, I see now.

Andy.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Use a stringline to drill and set anchor bolts, then use the simpson post bases that elevate the post about an inch. They have a slot, not a hole, in them to allow for some adjustment.

It's a bummer you cut the slab. You should have undermined it and poured the footing under it.


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## GuyJ (Oct 12, 2011)

titanoman said:


> It's a bummer you cut the slab. You should have undermined it and poured the footing under it.


Arghh! Where were you last month!  that is a great idea.. Well, live and learn. Thanks!


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

Undermining and pouring is easier said than done. At lest now you can mix the concrete on site if you wish and pour without having to have a pumper truck, build forms etc. (which is how I did undermined pours).
The excavated hole is your form and you don't have to take it apart.

By the by, I think the IRC is calling out 4500 PSI concrete now, I will check that out but all the cities here are requiring it.

Andy.

Andy.


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## GuyJ (Oct 12, 2011)

Anyone have any advice on the finishing of the new footings? should I trowel is smooth and level with the existing slab, or should I create some sort of joint between the two?


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

GuyJ said:


> Anyone have any advice on the finishing of the new footings? should I trowel is smooth and level with the existing slab, or should I create some sort of joint between the two?


Where I live I would have to separate the two, however I doubt that you have a frost problem there.
I would suggest that you would keep the two separated as it would serve no purpose having them connected.

I did a project similar to yours, two years ago and had to place footings down below 48". In my case, after pouring the 16" footings, I used Sono tubes to form the piers. Otherwise it would have required too much cement to fill the hole.
Cutting the corners of the slab wasn't an option for me, because I have a turned down slab.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

I'd choose option C, but use a treated post instead and you shouldn't have any issues with the 6" min. to grade.

I'd also drill & dowel into the existing slab, seeing as you don't need them separate for frost protection. I'd also use an edging tool on the new pour on all four sides. No sense in trying to blend the two together, as they'll always be a different color. You may even want to die the patches or something to give it a distinct look.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

How deep are you going to make the footings?


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## GuyJ (Oct 12, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> I'd also drill & dowel into the existing slab, seeing as you don't need them separate for frost protection. I'd also use an edging tool on the new pour on all four sides. No sense in trying to blend the two together, as they'll always be a different color. You may even want to die the patches or something to give it a distinct look.


Thanks for the advice, the existing cut slab edge has some chips in it already from me hitting it with the shovel etc.. Is there any value to hitting it with a grinder in an attempt to make it somewhat rounded over?


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## GuyJ (Oct 12, 2011)

ddawg16 said:


> How deep are you going to make the footings?


The new footings are 18" deep.


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