# Removing door casing



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Need a bit more information...

Are the jambs wood or are they metal? If they're wood I don't see why you couldn't remove the casing and replace it with something nicer. If they're metal your builder may be right, although there are some metal jamb configurations that could be cased with wood.

I'm assuming you're just wanting nicer casing, right? Not having any casing must be planned for ahead of time so I would not consider that an option.


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## Five Star (Mar 19, 2009)

I believe he has split jamb doors, which split in half and are already cased from the manufacture.

it can be done, heres what you need to do.first off you,ll need a thin flat pry bar or tool,a compressor and a 16 guage finish nailer with 2 1/2 inch nails.

take a nail gun and put approx 8 nails into the jamb side of door parellel to the jamb on both sides hinge and strike side.(nail across each side of door stop)
now take a utilitly Knife and cut the caulk from both sides and gently start prying the molding,becareful not to gouge the door frame.
after its all off put the new casing, do one side at a time complete.!:thumbup::whistling2::thumbup:

GOOD LUCK


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## Aljkur (Mar 20, 2009)

*casing*

The door frame is wood. The builder called it a U frame, apparently they slip in the top piece which already has the casing attached then the sides. What they are telling me is that the casing may be glued in place and may damage the door sill if I try and remove it. I don't see any caulking but that does not surprise me based on some of the workmanship.

The build suggested using backbend to attach to the existing casing, its an idea but the existing casing is so cheap I am not sure I it would be worth the effort


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Post a picture.
Ron


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## Five Star (Mar 19, 2009)

you can take a utility knife and cut the glue at the casing where it attaches to the jamb. the key is using a thin flat pry bar not to gouge the jamb when prying.

it is time consuming but it is possible,we do it all the time. just dont attack it take your time.
go into a closet and try one door inside a closet and you,ll see how easy or tuff it will be.

ask the builder this question.
what if during construction some one was walking and rammed the casing damaging it beyond repair,would they replace the whole door for a $4 piece of casing..?

the doors are called split jambs.

if you feel its to much for you call a professional finish carpenter !:thumbsup:


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## Aljkur (Mar 20, 2009)

*casing*

Sorry don't get the house until Monday. Did our inspection yesterday that's when I talked to the builder rep. They look like plain old door frames only the builder said they come as a prebuilt unit


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## SKINNY (Oct 8, 2008)

I think I just went through something similar... I went to upgrade the casing in my bathroom and was having a heck of a time prying off the old casing... Come to find out it is all pre-assembled and glued.. I ended up taking a utility razor knife and cut the casing off.. Then applied the new stuff.. caulked and painted..

congrats on the house..


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Sounds like a split-jamb prehung door. I cannot think of an instance in which you would not be able to take the casing off, based on what you've explained. My only guess is that your builder is assuming the prehung is the kind where the casings are stapled at the factory and not nailed - I've seen those, but still, if you are careful, it can be done, especially if the jambs are wood, a little repair may be in order after the fact. Another consideration to make is your baseboard molding. How do the baseboards mate up to this door? It would be at least worth noting that replacing the existing trim with something that is going to match up exactly where the old baseboards did might not be the easiest thing in the world. As stated already, a picture would be a big help in helping you.


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## Aljkur (Mar 20, 2009)

*Casings*

Thanks all.

When I purchased the house I requested not to have baseboards installed. I have purchased nice 5 1/2" baseboards that I intend to install. I want to replace the cheap builder casing to match up with the base board. I will give the it a go with a sharp knife and small pry bar. Persaonally I think it will work. The builder was insisting it wouldn't that's why I went looking for advice. I am learning they tend to tell you these things so you can hire them to come do the work.

We are doing the hardwood right now so I will get to that next


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I use a thin sharpened putty knife, rather than a pry bar. You can tap it in and cut through the glue. If the glue cuts pretty easily, you can tap it along to keep cutting the casing loose. After you have the glue cut, then use a thin pry bar to lift it off of the nails.


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## Aljkur (Mar 20, 2009)

*Removing casings*

After getting up enough nerve I took a sharp utility knife and cut the caulking on boths of the casing then used a chisel to pry off the casing.

Turned out it was a peice of cake. The casing is very cheap so it broke several times instead of coming off in one piece but I don't care as it is scrap. 

Thanks everyone


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Great to hear it worked out.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Be sure and tell the builder you accomplished this "impossible task" and I'm glad to hear it worked out.


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## rapidfit (Dec 8, 2010)

*replacing door casing..*

there is a overlay product called Rapidfit. It goes over the existing door casing, no removal or disposal required. Change the entire look of a door casing in 30 minutes or less (excluding painting). Has associated corner blocks and base blocks. Fits over virtually all existing commodity door casing. Finished result is better than removing and reinstalling 3 1/2 wide casing.


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