# Splice 6X6 Post?



## Mic13 (Aug 14, 2011)

Last month, I cemented in two 10-foot 6x6 posts to use as supports for a small pergola over my garden bench. Due to family issues, I was not able to get back to the project until this last weekend. To my dismay, one post was bent forward at the top, but was still square. The other post was not bent, but was twisted at the top about 15 degrees. Pulling out the two posts is one idea. Another is cutting the posts towards the middle and splicing new pieces for the top. Any ideas on the best way to splice them? Or would digging them up and putting in new posts be better? The posts are 7 feet apart and will support four 6' 2x10s that will support four 10' 2x6s that span the two posts. We live in coastal Virginia.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Welcome to the forum Mic13.

Don’t splice the post just replace them. Treated yellow pine is notorious for twisting and warping.

Don’t replace the post until you’re ready to put the whole thing together. It’s important to get that type of lumber nailed up/bolted up as soon as possible.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Better to set the wood on standoff brackets set on the footing then to bury them in concrete.


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## Mic13 (Aug 14, 2011)

Ron6519 said:


> Better to set the wood on standoff brackets set on the footing then to bury them in concrete.


This could work. Do you have any recommendations for brackets that would work for non-top-supported structures?


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## Mic13 (Aug 14, 2011)

kwikfishron said:


> Welcome to the forum Mic13.
> 
> Don’t splice the post just replace them. Treated yellow pine is notorious for twisting and warping.
> 
> Don’t replace the post until you’re ready to put the whole thing together. It’s important to get that type of lumber nailed up/bolted up as soon as possible.


Thanks for your suggestion! The original plan was to complete the project after the posts were set, but it didn't work out that way, unfortunately. If it weren't for the twisted post, I would be able to move on and chalk it up to "personality," but the twisted post was a deal breaker. I will explore the option of using a bracket in the existing concrete footer, but if that doesn't seem to be strong enough, I'll replace them. I guess I will get to test my four-wheel drive!!


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Mic13 said:


> This could work. Do you have any recommendations for brackets that would work for non-top-supported structures?


Check out the Simpson website.


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## Mic13 (Aug 14, 2011)

Ron6519 said:


> Check out the Simpson website.


 Thanks again. I looked again, but found no such brackets. I emailed the company. Cheers!


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Mic13 said:


> Thanks again. I looked again, but found no such brackets. I emailed the company. Cheers!


Here you go:
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/AB-ABA-ABE-ABU.asp


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

Ron6519 said:


> Here you go:
> http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/AB-ABA-ABE-ABU.asp


The problem he has now is that if he cuts the 6x6's out flush with the top of the footing he will still have the rest of the 6x6 left in the footing. That won't work with that post base or any other post base unless he can get the whole 6x6 out of the footing and fill it back up with concrete, something I've never seen before and would even think it would work.


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