# Corner Bead Question



## Prima (Sep 29, 2011)

Hope this isn't tooo dumb of a question, I tried searching for this, but couldn't find a clear answer.

When replacing or installing new conerbead, and putting joint compound on it, do I cover the whole bead, the actual corner and all?

What generally happens to me is I use the knife to put on the mud and when trying to feather it out I scrape away the stuff from the actual very tip of the corner, so that if I left it that way there would be a tiny exposed amount of metal running down the corner.

Is that ok? I've been trying to cover it and it seems difficult, as I seem to get it covered ok, but then when I sand to make flat I'll many times accidentally sand enough to expose the metal again, and have to go through applying compound over the exposed part and waiting for it to dry again.

So I'm curious if I'm supposed to be really careful and make sure all the metal is covered, or if it's ok to leave that tip of metal exposed and just paint over it?


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

If you use the metal (or plastic) bead (of the corner bead) for a straightedge to drag your knife on then the bead won't be covered. That's fine.:thumbup:


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Why do I feel that was a trolling setup?


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I gotta say...
Just when I think I have heard them all, something jumps up and surprises me.


----------



## Prima (Sep 29, 2011)

No not a trolling setup, sorry for the dumb question.

Thank you for answering.


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

If you don't know the answer then the question isn't dumb.

Corner bead is one of those things that there is really only one way to finish it. Even stretching my imagination I can't conceive of any other way to finish it successfully. I have never heard of anyone trying to "build" compound thickness on a corner bead (corner) and the first question that comes to my mind is : WHY? Why would you want to? In attempting to answer my own question I can only think of one answer and that would be so the corner would hold paint. I've never seen a corner bead that wouldn't hold paint so I guess I struggle with the original question. But, that certainly doesn't make it a dumb question.

Like I said: "Just when I think I've heard it all...."


----------



## Prima (Sep 29, 2011)

In answer your question, yes it's because I didn't know that the corner bead would hold paint. I assumed (wrongly as it turns out) that metal paint would be needed to paint over metal and that regular interior paint (Or primer actually) would just not stick to it.

And you've heard it here first, I have "built" joint compound over the corner bead, it is a pain in the butt (hence the question), but the use of patience and an outside corner taping knife makes it possible.

So I thank you again for answering my question, and saving me a great deal of time, but just for future reference when asking a question and getting accused of trolling and "Just when I think I've heard it all...." it tends to make folks feel dumb, and doesn't make for a pleasant experience.


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Well GOOD!!! Another satisfied customer.:thumbsup:

Now that your sensitivity has been bruised and your feelings have been hurt allow me to point out that *YOU are the one* that opened this thread with the words: *"Hope this isn't tooo dumb of a question,"*

Would you rather we would have replied with: 
* :laughing:Ha ha ha ha :laughing::laughing:ARE YA KIDDIN ME? :laughing:That's a dumb question!!!* :wallbash: 

Would that have made you feel more at home?


----------



## wilsonstark (Jan 16, 2011)

Prima said:


> In answer your question, yes it's because I didn't know that the corner bead would hold paint. I assumed (wrongly as it turns out) that metal paint would be needed to paint over metal and that regular interior paint (Or primer actually) would just not stick to it.
> 
> And you've heard it here first, I have "built" joint compound over the corner bead, it is a pain in the butt (hence the question), but the use of patience and an outside corner taping knife makes it possible.
> 
> So I thank you again for answering my question, and saving me a great deal of time, but just for future reference when asking a question and getting accused of trolling and "Just when I think I've heard it all...." it tends to make folks feel dumb, and doesn't make for a pleasant experience.


I would have had the same question within the first year of owning my house, but I was too chicken to touch the drywall at all. Good for you to be willing to ask the dumb questions. That, combined with using the search functions to look for old articles, can be really helpful.


----------



## Arkitexas (Mar 10, 2011)

Prima said:


> In answer your question, yes it's because I didn't know that the corner bead would hold paint. I assumed (wrongly as it turns out) that metal paint would be needed to paint over metal and that regular interior paint (Or primer actually) would just not stick to it.
> 
> And you've heard it here first, I have "built" joint compound over the corner bead, it is a pain in the butt (hence the question), but the use of patience and an outside corner taping knife makes it possible.
> 
> So I thank you again for answering my question, and saving me a great deal of time, but just for future reference when asking a question and getting accused of trolling and "Just when I think I've heard it all...." it tends to make folks feel dumb, and doesn't make for a pleasant experience.


There are no dumb questions, only dumb responses. You received some dumb responses.


----------



## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Prima said:


> Hope this isn't tooo dumb of a question, I tried searching for this, but couldn't find a clear answer.
> 
> When replacing or installing new conerbead, and putting joint compound on it, do I cover the whole bead, the actual corner and all?
> 
> ...


 
take a look at this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfHVSQ7AvFc&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL0A869F429F057C4F


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

If you build up the mud to actually cover the "corner" of the bead, it will likely "chip" off the first time anything bumps it. Pros take the mud off of the actual corner when sanding for that very reason. The metal bead IS a "paintable" surface....


----------



## suel41452 (Oct 20, 2015)

*Thanks, Prima!*

Thank you Prima for asking this question. 
It is NOT a dumb question AT ALL, I would assume some sort of special paint or coating would be needed on metal, too!! The people who gave you grief - what a bunch of conceited know-it-all jerks!!!!


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Absolutely there are NO stupid questions here. This is an old thread, but bears repeating.... The metal will paint without a problem.


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Never noticed the date on the prior post. 4 years ago and revived today by someone with one total post. Not uncommon when a new person signs on, reads tons of stuff and comments wherever. Ron


----------



## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

I was about to post the same question as the OP but I did a "Search Forums" first and found this.

It may sound like a "dumb question" to people who have experience finishing drywall, but you've got to ask yourself, how did you first learn what to do with outside metal corner bead?

Since you completely mud over tape and screw (and nail) heads, it is natural to assume that you should mud over the entire surface of a metal corner bead. There are even specialized "outside corner" mudding tools at the big box stores which would even seem to support the very notion that the outside corner should have mud on it.

Then there are the various YouTube instructional videos about installing and mudding metal corner beads that describe riding your 6" knife on the corner to build up the mud layer to cover the bead, and some may note that the final finish step is to scrape off any mud on the tip of the nose of the bead but neglect to state, "Don't worry - primer and topcoat paint will stick just fine to that exposed tip of bare metal all the way up, and you don't want mud on the tip anyway. That's the part most prone to contact and it will crack and flake right off the first time it gets hit, and then you've to repair it all over again."

Yeah, I figured that out myself after thinking about the wasted effort of trying to mud around the metal corner bead given that it wouldn't survive well in real life hallway and room traffic, but it sure would help if someone just came out and said that in the first place. (BTW, it's such a basic drywalling technique, it should be in the Sticky FAQs portion of this forum. In fact, I will put an entry there now for future newbies' sake.)


----------

