# Understanding drywall and potential cracking



## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

I have a detached garage that is kind of unique. It is a metal building sort of like a pole barn. The inside walls are 2x4 24 inches on center directly bolted to a concrete slab. Trusses are 4 feet on center.

I am thinking of drywalling walls and installing white metal on the ceiling.

I am going to hang drywall vertically to eliminate butted seams "except in the corners". Building is 30x30.

1. If done this way, each tapered seam will be on a single stud. Is this good or bad?

2. The corners of the walls are not framed like a house exactly. If I use drywall clips and attach each corner piece to the same corner studd for inside corners, will this eliminate or prevent cracking? (Or will it make it worse).

3. The insulation paper is on top of the studs. I thought about cutting a foot of the paper off each studd in three places and putting adhesive on these areas to contact the drywall and still use screws to help eliminate popping. (I hate to take off all the paper.) Is this a good or bad idea?

I live in Southern Kentucky climate. Garage is unheated unless I am in there with a kerosene heater working. i live in the country and a pristine job is not required but I want to do the best I can.

Thanks!


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## RickyBobby (Nov 19, 2009)

How high are the walls? If they are within a height that one piece of drywall will reach, then the seem on one stud is fine. (Come to think of it, the 2 foot on center may require additional support/screws. The pros on here should be able to verify this)

As for the corners, a little more explanation would be helpful? How are they not framed like a house? 

Regarding the removal of the insulation paper and gluing, I don't really think that is necessary. As long as you use the proper screws and sink them appropriately, I don't see an issue of any of them popping.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Answers to some: http://gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-2010.html

Gary


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Your biggest issue is going to be having drywall in an area that isn't temperature controlled. It's my experience that most garages around here have tape coming loose/cracking, texture peeling off the ceiling, etc. Open carports are even worse. Some of the reason may be that folks don't often re-paint the garage when they paint the house, so after extended "exposure" without fresh paint, things tend to go bad. If it were mine, I'd use wood on the walls (easier to hang tools on anyway). If you do go with drywall, 1/2" drywall is common on 24" centers in commercial interior work (metal framing) not residential framing. I wouldn't advise it in your situation, though it will work. Breaking the joint on a single stud is not a problem. Just not very sturdy hanging 1/2" on 24" centers. You could opt for 5/8" which would be better. I always glue and nail (screws are fine) on wood framing, so I'd remove the insulation paper from the face of the studs if it were mine. I've used corner clips a few times many years ago hanging houses by the board for a builder of "mass produced" housing (I think it was Pulte). It was a cost savings for them to leave out maybe 100 studs in thousands of houses I guess. The clips are a pain to deal with. I never had to go back and do any touch-up or repairs on any of those homes, so I can't say how they work in the long run. My guess is not very well, as they were not commonly used, even back then. I NEVER worked on any high end homes where builders skimped on the lumber package and used clips. Again, it's a garage, so if you're trying to get by on a budget it will work the way you plan on doing it....


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