# widening walkway



## abrowning (Jun 2, 2008)

I don't think that's going to work. The slate tiles will crack where the original walk meets the extensions. There's no way that the extensions won't move relative to the original walk. Slate won't be able to handle the movement without breaking. 

You may have to remove the original, put in the wider base, then the slate.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

w/o knowing where YOUR 'where' is no one can appropriately answer - either to address/approve your method or suggest suitable alternatives,,, sidewalk looks new - who installed it ? this is a diy forum

slate MAY work in certain climes,,, you also face substantial risk of tile loosening per brownie,,, temperature changes cause solids & liquids to change volume


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Nice sidewalk, by the way. I like the detail.


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## jemhunter (May 2, 2013)

I live in north California and the weather is moderate here without extreme temperature. 

I see what you mean w/ the tile cracking where the walkway meet its extension.

How much of movement can I expect? If it stays relatively leveled, I can put some red brick bullnose (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/T1U-Square-Rounded-Bullnose-Red-Brick_120636211.html) on the side extensions and just tile the current walkway.

Would the concrete from the extension bond w/ the current walkway?

Thanks


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> Would the concrete from the extension bond w/ the current walkway?


Well, it's a cold joint, so Nope, won't bond like a monolithic pour,...
Pinnin' the extension to the old walk will help, but it'll always be a cold joint,....

I like yer idea for the brick bull-nose border,....


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## jemhunter (May 2, 2013)

Bondo said:


> Well, it's a cold joint, so Nope, won't bond like a monolithic pour,...
> Pinnin' the extension to the old walk will help, but it'll always be a cold joint,....
> 
> I like yer idea for the brick bull-nose border,....


What does pinning mean? That would work for me if it stays relatively leveled and doesn't split from the walkway

Thanks


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... Within' pinning, ya bore holes into the existin', 'n run short rebars from what's there, into what's goin' next to it,...
Still no guarantee it won't shift, but there's less chance of it,....


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## jemhunter (May 2, 2013)

Drill, insert rebars, fill holes with concrete, pour concrete to form the side extensions. 
Did I get it right?


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> Drill, insert rebars, fill holes with concrete, pour concrete to form the side extensions.
> Did I get it right?


Ayuh,.... You can grout in the rebars 1st, or just pour yer concrete extension,....

When ya do the pour, the concrete will seep into the holes ya drilled, especially if ya vibrate it,...


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

drilling any holes MUST be done in the vertical mid-point,,, if using #3 bar, drill 3/8" holes & drive in the bars (in hgwy work, they're called 'longitudinal tie bars'),,, trying to vibrate grout into holes isn't likely possible,,, we usualy pump in epoxy if using 1 1/4" bars across a contraction jnt,,, you just don't have necessary thickness,,, w/o frost, we wouldn't suggest tie in of any shoulder work


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## jemhunter (May 2, 2013)

thanks stadry. although there is no frost here, how about tree root growing under the concrete? i saw a couple concrete joints around the house becoming uneven. about 3/4 inch of height differential even though there is no big tree within 12ft


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

For all the work to try and 'widen' the path....

I think you would be ahead by just yanking up what you have and pouring a new wider patch.

Instead of slate tiles, maybe consider stamped concrete or stained.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

You could probably get away with pinning in rebar to the sides, extending concrete, and covering in slate tiles IF you use some kind of de-coupling material between the slate and concrete. This might be a better question for the tile section here on this forum.


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## jemhunter (May 2, 2013)

i think demolishing it would be adding work and cost. cut it from the porch, get dumpster, cement truck, etc.

i have tiles on first floor on a concrete slab and use an elastic membrane in case the slab cracks. i didnt think people use it for outdoor but it us worth checking with an expert. thanks for pointing it out


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