# Hard to change position/size of windows?



## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Changing the sill height is the easiest. It doesn't involve any structural framing changes. Changing the top height of the window or moving it left or right is much more involved, because you have to change the header that supports the wall above the window opening. 

Nate


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

Thanks for the reply. How do you support the wall while removing and installing a new header? Also, would you build one header across the top of all the windows, and frame in the rough openings under it? Or would you build a header for each window? Thanks again. Anywhere to read up on this?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

zel said:


> How do you support the wall while removing and installing a new header?


You would build a temporary framed wall to support the overhead ceiling joists and rafters. Here is a picture where this was done. We had to rebuild the front wall and the corner as well. 
If you look at the picture closely, you will see the temp. wall approximitaly 2'-0" inward - from the exterior wall that we ripped out and were reframing. This temp. wall supports the weight of the roofline and the rafters above. Prior to doing something like this, you would need to confirm the exact location of your ceiling framing members and the direction that they run in. 
You would also need to confirm that there are no additional loads planing down or connected to the wall to be worked on.












zel said:


> Also, would you build one header across the top of all the windows, and frame in the rough openings under it? Or would you build a header for each window?


One header would be the way to go. This header would need to be capable to support the weight load that the wall is carrying. You can try to get this calculated by the lumber company that you purchase the materials from - rather than simply 'guessing'. Also, check with your local building dept. Remember too, that such a job will require a building permit.



zel said:


> Thanks again. Anywhere to read up on this?


Here is a link:

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60193


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Zel,

Please realize that such a project rates high in terms of 'difficulty' and CAUTION for a DIYer. 
You should get some additional local professional advice or even onsite help - in undertaking something like this.

Good Luck


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

:thumbup: Thanks for the info! I will definately get some help with this one. Another point I should mention is that the vaulted ceiling is basically a false vaulted ceiling. I dont know a good way to explain it, except that when you go in the attic, you can climb on top of the vaulted ceiling joists and above your head are the real roof rafters. I'm definately not sure how I would support the real roof rafters. I would think supporting the "fake" ceiling wouldnt be too difficult though.

Also, I took some measurements. The windows are 39" each and there is 2. One is centered directly under the peak (false), the other is to the left when in the room looking out. Would there be an easy way to add another of the same size window to the right, to balance them out? I realise this would mean either replacing or somehow extending the header. Is this possible? 

Thanks again, pictues mean 1000 words!:thumbsup:


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

It looks like we are going to go ahead with the plan of changing the windows to something that fits the wall and it centgered under the peak, even if it means it will take longer to sleep in the new bedroom. 
Heres what it looks like now. Between the blue tape on the window is the center of the peak.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Hi Zel,

Yes, I agree by your picuture, that room needs a 'bigger group of windows' that is also 'centered'.

It will make a huge difference. Even something as simple as a triple mulled window can add alot of light and style to a room. Example:


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

That is darn close to what we are looking for. I did alot of measuring and writing on the walls today. What we have in mind is:

-roughly 6' of widow in the center of the room, a 2' fixed center section flanked by a 2' double hung on the sides with a fixed arch window above the center section.

-roughly (still deciding this) 1' from the side walls, and on both sides, an 18" full casement with the cranks to open up. These would in theory, be right above the nightstands. 

The bottom of all these windows would be at 3' (still not set in stone). Currently the bottom of the windows pictured is approx. 2'. I will be drawing it up on graph paper to get a visual, if it isnt too big, I will scan it and post it.

BTW- what did you use to trim that window. I've never seen such smooth contemporary trim like that, but it looks great!


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

zel said:


> BTW- what did you use to trim that window. I've never seen such smooth contemporary trim like that, but it looks great!


You're going to laugh about this. What you see was originally fluted casing on the sides and tops with rosettes.
Home Owner didn't like it.  ...(everyone has their own tastes).
She wanted something different. Unfortunately the trim work was all done and tied tightly into the new window frame and jambs. 

Sooo......I cut and installed 1/4" sanded plywood 'squares' over the rosettes. Then filled in the 'flutes' with joint compound and ready patch. Primed and painted. What you see is what she got. She liked it.

Here's a picture of a stained glass window we made for her. She ordered the stained glass and we built a window frame for it (fabricated it into an interior window). The frame mimics the design of the existing trimwork in her home:










Side facing stairwell:


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

:hammer: 

lol, I cant believe you had to fill in all the "flutes" on that trim. That must have been a pain. I like the smooth lines it has now. I'd just hate to have to change the door casings in the bedroom to match though. My brother just put them up a couple weeks ago. :furious: He probably wouldnt be too happy if, I pulled them down. Is there any chance that compound will crack with temperature changes?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

zel said:


> Is there any chance that compound will crack with temperature changes?


No, It is primed over and sealed along with the wood. At that point, it is essentially a 'wood filler/putty'


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

Ok, heres what I found when I opened the wall.

http://www.members.aol.com/zelone/demo.jpg

I am planning on an arch over the top plates and 2 double casements below the arch. They will start approximately where the drywall is cut on the sides. 

I am wondering if I can leave a large section of the 2 x 12 header that is above the current windows in place for extra support, add some studs in place of the window, and go to a smaller (possibly 2 x 6) header for the casement windows on either side of it? 

The only reason I would like to do this would be to allow me to use a window only slightly shorter then what is there now, but to raise it up at least another 6" off the floor. I didnt expect to see such a huge header above that window.

I havent had anyone else over to see this yet, just looking for opinions, based on the picture. I am assuming the studs on top of the header go all the way up to the roof rafters.

I know this might be hard to open, but it was the plan I drew up before opening the wall completely and will have to be modified based on the wall structure. http://members.aol.com/zelone/plan.tif


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

Any suggestions here? I'm also wondering how big the header above the arch has to be. The Arch is 6' wide and about 15" at its tallest point. I want to install it so that the bottom of the arch site on the top of the top plates seen in the picture. 
:help:


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

Project is moving right along...siding is off, foam sheathing is off. I prebuilt the framing for the windows, and one side of the framing is installed.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

zel said:


> Project is moving right along...siding is off, foam sheathing is off. I prebuilt the framing for the windows, and one side of the framing is installed.


What did you end up doing regarding the header framing?


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

Hey Atlantic, I somehow missed this post. When I tore open the wall, I found a 2x11" header over the old windows. I installed one new header on one side first, then we built supports out of scabbed together 2x4''s going up above where the arch window was going. I noticed a small amount of space between the 2x11 header and the top plates, I cut all the nails holding the header in place and it literally was loose in there, there seemed to be no weight on it. I immediately added in studs after the header was out. Above the top plates was framing of the roof trusses. This is where we attached our temp supports and had to cut them out. I have to admit I was a little nervous cutting these, even with the supports in place, but all went well and nothing moved, not even an 1/8". Heres some pics of our progress:
http://www.doording.com/uploadedimages/1179112650-bedroomext.JPG

http://www.doording.com/uploadedimages/1179112676-bedroominterior.JPG

I still have interior work to do, but so far, so good.


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

*ATTN: Atlantic*

Atlantic, just wondering if you ever seen the pics I linked to above, and what your thoughts were on the changes we made, as well as the procedured we used to make them? Thanks! :thumbsup:


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

zel said:


> Atlantic, just wondering if you ever seen the pics I linked to above, and what your thoughts were on the changes we made, as well as the procedured we used to make them? Thanks! :thumbsup:


Looks good. I missed your post previous to to your last one.

As far as gable end walls....you really are not dealing with anything near the weight load of your walls carrying rafter/truss loads.

I cannot really tell where your header ends. If we were faced with that visually, we would ''post down''...or ...''jack'' the areas under the header ends that appear in your picture, rather than open up more walls. The reason being that it would cost less to install (3) 2x4's on each end, under the pre-installed header...than it would cost to rip open the the areas of the wall to see where the header ends.

Either way...according to your pics, I think that you should be good.


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

Thanks for the insight! I have since gotten most of the drywall up, but I had to order the correct extension jamb for the arch window, so I cant drywall it all the way up until I get the jamb in. Its been a bad week for supplys, my extension jambs are said to be taking 4-6 weeks, my flooring was supposed to be 2 weeks, now thats turned into "we arent exactly sure". So, we arent really getting any closer yet.


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