# Moen cartridge repacement - single handle shower



## sandmant (Oct 7, 2010)

I have a leaky single handle Moen shower faucet I need to fix. I've taken off the few parts I could figure out how to get off, but I'm stuck, and I can find no signs of model identification except for the number 100575 on the object in figure 2. From digging through this forum, I figure I need to replace the "cartridge", but I do not know how to get it off. The faucet is original equipment in 14 year old home.

I cannot locate the model on the Moen support site. I sent them an email yesterday, but I have not heard back. And I'm a bit desperate.

Does anyone recognize the model from the pictures, or can anyone provide some basic instructions on cartridge replacement?

Thanks


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Looks like a problem oh'mike can solve. If he doesn't respond by tomorrow, PM him.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Looks like a 1225 moen cartridge. Get one at the box store. It comes with instructions. They are known to be stubborn though and there is a "cartridge puller" you can buy. Assuming no hiccups, it should take about 30 minutes.


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## the_man (Aug 14, 2010)

TheEplumber said:


> Looks like a 1225 moen cartridge. Get one at the box store. It comes with instructions. They are known to be stubborn though and there is a "cartridge puller" you can buy. Assuming no hiccups, it should take about 30 minutes.


i'm thinking its a 1222 positemp cartridge. handle looks like it spins instead of lifts. the same cartridge puller will work, but its a little bit more of a pain to get out. much more expensive cartridge though :whistling2:


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## sandmant (Oct 7, 2010)

The handle does turn, counter-clockwise, from off/cold to full/hot.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That's the Positemp----Do get the puller---if you snap off the cartridge stem by attempting to pull it out with pliers you will regret that move.

There is a horse shoe shaped clip that must be removed--you can see the legs of the clip across the face of the valve---Don't fumble and drop it into the wall--(I've done that a time or two)

Once the clip is lifted out the cartridge will pull straight out.

Clean the inside of the valve body with a little fine sand paper to remove any mineral build up---

Lube the new cartridge with the silicon lube included with the new part.

Push it into the hole.

Reinsert the clip---done.----Mike----


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## plumber666 (Oct 7, 2010)

Before you put the new on in, take a flashlight and look carefully inside the valve body. Very often when the rubber on the outside of the old cartridge gets old and brittle, it will shred when it gets pulled out.
On the sides of the inside of the valve body there are two holes. This is where the hot and cold water enter the valve to get mixed befor heading for the shower head. I've had to take a tool and pick out pieces of old rubber out of these holes before. If you don't, the new valve will have the same problems as the old one. Be absolitely certain the inside of the valve is free of all debris.
It can be time consuming. I've got an old dentist pick I use for this, but a bent piece of stiff wire will work too.
Good luck!


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## sandmant (Oct 7, 2010)

This forum is amazing! I found the 1222 cartridge, along with the puller, at home depot, and have replaced the cartridge. Thanks you so much.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

oh'mike said:


> That's the Positemp----Do get the puller---if you snap off the cartridge stem by attempting to pull it out with pliers you will regret that move.
> 
> There is a horse shoe shaped clip that must be removed--you can see the legs of the clip across the face of the valve---Don't fumble and drop it into the wall--(I've done that a time or two)
> 
> ...


Looking at the OP's pics above, the last picture shows two white nylon ring inserts that connect over each other with fine teeth.

I replaced a Moen acrylic knob with a Moen metal handle, but left these too nylon inserts in, which fit. Instructions for the handle made no mention of nylon inserts.

These two nylon inserts seem to serve as spacers and allow the metal handle to have a bit more stability. Is this what they are for?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

The white plastic parts are temperature limit stops. You set the maximum temp. for the valve with these. Adjust the outer one left or right to the max. temp you want when the handle is at 100% on. Its trial and error as there is not a calibrated dial, just in-gauge the notches


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

TheEplumber said:


> The white plastic parts are temperature limit stops. You set the maximum temp. for the valve with these. Adjust the outer one left or right to the max. temp you want when the handle is at 100% on. Its trial and error as there is not a calibrated dial, just in-gauge the notches


Thanks.

If you look at the pic though, there is already a metal temperature limit stop. These nylon/plastic combo seems to be some sort of spacer/shim. They fit inside the metal temperature limit stop.

My gut also tells me that these spacers serve as a guide for the cartridge stem. Without it, you could bend the stem.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

The metal piece stops against the adjustable white stop. Exploded view of posi-temp valve:
http://www.moen.com/shared/pdf/t2153pt.pdf


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

TheEplumber said:


> The metal piece stops against the adjustable white stop. Exploded view of posi-temp valve:
> http://www.moen.com/shared/pdf/t2153pt.pdf


You're right.

The original setup had the outer ring lined up with the inner ring. Therefore, the knob was allowed to turn all the way to max temperature.

If you want access to max temperature, are the rings even necessary?

I kept both rings as part of the set up as I found them when switching the acrylic knob for the metal lever.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I don't get inside posi-temps often so I really can't remember. But I believe if the outer ring is gone, the handle will spin a 360. The metal part won't stop against anything.


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## csquires (Aug 27, 2011)

Sorry to revive this thread after a few months, but I think I have this same valve. Mine isn't leaking, I am retiling the shower, and I just need to replace the trim, I'm hoping to leave the existing rough-in valve in place. How do I identify which trim kits are compatible with this valve? Also, is it the valve or the cartridge determines which trim kit I can use? Thanks for all your help, I gained a lot of the confidence to tackle this project from reading this forum, and others like it!


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## plumberinlaw (Feb 22, 2010)

csquires said:


> Sorry to revive this thread after a few months, but I think I have this same valve. Mine isn't leaking, I am retiling the shower, and I just need to replace the trim, I'm hoping to leave the existing rough-in valve in place. How do I identify which trim kits are compatible with this valve? Also, is it the valve or the cartridge determines which trim kit I can use? Thanks for all your help, I gained a lot of the confidence to tackle this project from reading this forum, and others like it!


find a plumbing supply that carries moen they can tell you what trim is cool


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