# 6 Inch Range Vent Hole Through 10 Inch Rim Joist



## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

I think I already know the answer to this question, but wanted a few additional opinions. 

I am working out the details on a kitchen renovation where my range will be moved into a peninsula near the center of the room. I want to vent the range hood up into the joist bay (2x10) and then out the side of the house through the rim joist to the outside. The only other interesting point is that this location is located above an existing sliding door. I will be up in the joist bay however, so I should be drilling well above the existing header for the door. This is a two storey home, and this kitchen is on the first floor.

Can someone please confirm that i am safe to drill a 6 inch hole through this 10 inch rim joist to get my vent outside?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

I will take a guess that drilling through the rim joist should be fine, but the placement of a range exhaust sucks right over an entrance way..im sure there is a code one where you can exhaust smokey exhaust so it doesn get sucked back into the house..or blow on someone trying to get in or out...


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## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

That is actually a sunroom out that door. The duct will go into the sunroon and then out the side of the sunroom. So in reality, the duct will not terminate over an entryway. 

I left the sunroom detail out of my initial explanation, so I can see why that might concern someone.

Thanks.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Splash said:


> That is actually a sunroom out that door. The duct will go into the sunroon and then out the side of the sunroom. So in reality, the duct will not terminate over an entryway.
> 
> I left the sunroom detail out of my initial explanation, so I can see why that might concern someone.
> 
> Thanks.


gotcha, then in that case it should be fine...as long as it meets code on distance of travel, that to me sounds like a loong distance for a fan to push exhaust in a residential setting...do you have any other shorter distances to run to get out of the structure?


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## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

There is no shorter way unfortunately. I fit within the manufacturers guidelines on duct length (including the two elbows), but was unaware that there was a code which may limit this run in addition. Ill look into that.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Splash said:


> There is no shorter way unfortunately. I fit within the manufacturers guidelines on duct length (including the two elbows), but was unaware that there was a code which may limit this run in addition. Ill look into that.


depending on where you live there are lots of codes for almost anything you do...many times they will side with what the manufacture recommends on an issue like that...I usually keep any paperwork on venting or installation to show an inspector if I think there will be any questions..


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why can you not just go straight out through the roof?


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## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

Its a two storey home, with a bedroom directly above.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

Splash said:


> Its a two storey home, with a bedroom directly above.


 do you have a closet above to borrow a corner in to get into the attic?


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## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

I dont. Its essentially right in the middle of the bedroom. I assumed that if I could do my horizontal run and fall within the manufacturers specs then I should be safe.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

you can offset to the outside wall like you want to going over the sun room, but go up before drilling the side plate..if there was a spot to go up on the 2nd floor..


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## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

I thought about that, except you now how 3 elbows instead of the two in my original plan. Since each elbow counts as 10 feet of linear duct, Id be over the limit. I appreciate everyone's suggestions on trying to improve my duct flow, but my main concern is still drilling through the rim joist. (Although I would gladly shorter the duct run also if I could).


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

if you go up instead of out the side, you can increase duct size and that would give you more distance....you just have to decide which way is easier and less costly..


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Use galvanized metal duct, tape and coat the seams. 6" duct is about the minimum for kitchen hood. Even the cheaper hoods I used came with 7" opening that could be reduced to 6" or equivalent. For longer distance, you may want higher cfm hoods and they may need bigger outlet. Instead of minimum you need, go size larger such as 7-8".


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

carpdad said:


> Use galvanized metal duct, tape and coat the seams. 6" duct is about the minimum for kitchen hood. Even the cheaper hoods I used came with 7" opening that could be reduced to 6" or equivalent. For longer distance, you may want higher cfm hoods and they may need bigger outlet. Instead of minimum you need, go size larger such as 7-8".


Your plan is just fine--done exactly that same run several times---

Carpdad has an important point---most new hoods use 7" or even 8" ducts

If possible--upsize the duct---tin is cheap--reworking it in the future will not be---


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## Splash (Feb 28, 2013)

If I can only upsize the duct for half the run, does it even help out? I guess its a trade off as to whether Id rather cut a larger hole in that rim joist than I need to or not. The hood itself does only output from a 6 inch vent, I have checked.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

What is the rim supporting? Usually, if there is roof or wall, it is sitting on plates (sill plates). Sill plate, single or double, can span one joist bay, about 14". That means you can remove the entire block of rim lumber from that one bay. I am guessing but I think you'd be safe to cut out a square 9x9" and use bigger duct. This is worth calling in a pro (if you're not sure) than regretting the capacity and noise.
For fyi, search wall framing. Load bearing 2nd story wall studs do not have to line up with studs underneath - for 2x4 double sill and 16" oc wall framing.


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