# chainsaws



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I have Stihl, Echo and Craftsman, The only brand I would consider buying now is Stihl


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Stihl---hands down.

I've owned Dolmar--world best in its day---
Husquivarna--not bad at all-
And a bunch of junk Poulan---all junk free is about the most you should pay for one of those.

Get the Stihl---Dolmar is over kill for home maintanance


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Stihl is the best. Starts in one pull. Well engineered product all around. 

Poulans are junk. Has less than 1/4 the use of the Stihl and 10X the issues. 

Haven't used the Husqvarnas but they make some nice tools. Local rental shop has swapped over to a bunch of their stuff and it is well liked.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Stihl Farm Boss or Husqvarna. Both are very good. As for the chain, use a Carbide one. It will last longer.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Carbide chains are slow cutting and expensive. They are best used for specialty cutting like rescue, demolition, burl cutting,etc.

The most popular steel chain is chisel cut. It has a fast cutting speed. Moderate stay sharp quality. 
Semi-chisel cut chains are a bit slower than the chisel cut, but stay sharp longer. Good choice for general cutting and works well on dirty wood.
Square chisel cut is probably the fastest cutting, but poor stay sharp qualities and difficult to sharpen.

You can buy 3 steel chains for the cost of a carbide.

If you are cutting wood that has a good chance of nails in it, carbide would be your best choice. But for trimming trees or cutting fire wood, I'll stick with steel.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Oso954, actually not more then a regular chain. They cut a lot faster through stuff like Maple, vs. the regular chains. Never had any issue using a Carbide chain on my Stihl 180 with a 16" chain. It cut through everything like Butter.


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## r___r (May 5, 2015)

My Echo cs-301 is still going strong after 15 years.

So is the old McCulloch.

They're not commercial grade, but, they get put to work.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Low kickback chains often slip my mind, and that is what you are probably using. They are not as aggressive as the chains that I use. That is probably the biggest difference in our comparisons of cutting speed. 

Carbide chains simply don't come as aggressive as the better steel chains, and you wouldn't want them to if you are going to hit something hard.

Since the OP should be using the low kickback, your cutting speed comparison is the one that he should use.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Oso954 said:


> Low kickback chains often slip my mind, and that is what you are probably using. They are not as aggressive as the chains that I use. That is probably the biggest difference in our comparisons of cutting speed.
> 
> Carbide chains simply don't come as aggressive as the better steel chains, and you wouldn't want them to if you are going to hit something hard.
> 
> Since the OP should be using the low kickback, your cutting speed comparison is the one that he should use.


Nope. I used a Carbide chain on my Stihl 180, because of the different variety of woods that I cut with it, before I sold it to friends of ours. Because of back problems, I could no longer use it, so they took it off of my hands.

The Stihl 180 only uses a Low Kickback chain, because it is a Narrow Kerf design.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I also vote for the Stihl, The 2, Poulan Pro's I've own all leaked at the oil pump after just a few uses.
I own 2, Stihl's now that get used a lot. Both always start, so far I've never had to work on them except to sharpen the blade.
The key to gas powered tools that get little use for months at a time is to use nonethenol fuel, only use fresh gas, let them run out of fuel when you done using them.
Tools like snowblowers, chainsaws, rototillers are the most common one's to end up having fuel issues.
And just adding regular Sta-Bil to the fuel is not going to counter act the effects of the ethenol in the fuel.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I have owned Poulan, Husqvarna, McCulloch and Stihl chainsaws. I agree that Poulan is junk. My old old McCulloch was OK, I have not seen them for sale in several years. I had several Husqvarna saws, seems to me that the quality has deteriorated over the years, now you almost have to get the Pro model to get a decent saw. My current saw is a Stihl MS 290. Not a professional model, but good power, very reliable, pretty well made. If I had to get another saw right now, it would be a Stihl.

As for chains, I have never used a carbide chain, only the steel low kickback chains. When properly sharpened, they cut very well. I am not sure you can sharpen a carbide chain, certainly I have never tried to sharpen a carbide tipped table saw blade or a carbide tipped router bit.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Considering how fickle infrequently used 2 cycle engines can become, I stongly suggest a corded electric model. Any of the brands including the $44 (on sale) model from Harbor Freight will be far more dependable and usable that the most expensive gasoline model.


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

ok, thanks for all the input. i wondered about the poulan, its on sale in the holiday adds for 99, one even has it for 89. judging from all your input i will probebly go with a stihl and not too concerned about types of chains. have a johnsereds ( how ever its spelled ) but its 40 years old and about at the end of the line. thanks again.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> i wondered about the poulan, its on sale in the holiday adds for 99, one even has it for 89.


Ayuh,.... Those are more of a throw-away saw,...
You might get a few or several years out of it,....
I'd probably get a few months outa one,....

I've got a 290 Stihl I bought new a few years ago, to back up my ole 044 Stihl I block firewood with,...
20" bars,...
The 290 is a good limbin' saw, but lacks terribly when blockin' up hardwood trees,...

The ole 044 developed a motor problem earlier this fall, after searchin' craigslist for too long, I finally found a 460 Magnum Stihl,...

My tree guy has been sayin' for years that the 044 is Ok, but the 046/ 460 is the Perfect blockin' saw, Lotsa horsepower, without the weight of the big block 660s,...
He's Right,.... Talk about a Saw Dust machine,...

Blockin' hard maple, with the 20" bar, or the 25" that came with it, you can barely labor the motor,...
Unbelieveable hp difference in a like weight package,....

I'm gonna do the big bore top-end rebuild on the ole 044,...
That'll give it the same displacement as the 460,...

As for chains,.... I run the pro-model full chisel chain with rakers,...
None of that safety chain stuff for me,... takes to long to grind those nubs down to get a decent cut,...

Carbide cutters is Firemen's chain,....


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

I heat with wood, use about 4 cords a year at this point, cut it all on my property, and my stihl 290 handles it all easily. Of course, mine is only about 11 years old so maybe they don't last long-term, but it's done well for me. THAT said, the 290 is overkill for occasional use around the house. Ron


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Colbyt said:


> Considering how fickle infrequently used 2 cycle engines can become, I stongly suggest a corded electric model. Any of the brands including the $44 (on sale) model from Harbor Freight will be far more dependable and usable that the most expensive gasoline model.


That does not work, when your nearest electrical outlet is over two miles away from where you are clearing brush. Plus the electric motors do not have the torque as a gas unit.

Never had any issues with the Stihl that I had. Always started on one pull after putting it into choke.

As for the Harbor Freight model. That is great if you want to buy a new one every year. Those of us that buy something that will be dependable and can last up to 15 years or more. We are looking at a quality product.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> That does not work, when your nearest electrical outlet is over two miles away from where you are clearing brush. Plus the electric motors do not have the torque as a gas unit.
> 
> .



I can't disagree with that. The electrics are more of an urban tool for lots less a 1/4 acre.


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

any input / advice on echo brand chain saws ? they seem to be popular at a couple stores i looked at.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

shirbon said:


> any input / advice on echo brand chain saws ? they seem to be popular at a couple stores i looked at.


Ayuh,.... A few steps above a Poulan, 'n a couple below a Stihl,....


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I would look for a saw shop or a power equipment store that stocks parts and repairs chain saws in house. See what brands they sell and service, even if you may decide to purchase elsewhere.

I would actually suggest you buy it there, even if it costs a few dollars more. You want that shop to still be in business when you need parts or service. You are usually trying to start your saw when you discover it needs parts or service.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Another vote for a Stihl. My son-in-law heated with wood and had a Stihl and didn't destroy it and that boy could destroy an anvil.


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## Trapper6 (Nov 25, 2015)

Best chainsaw for the AVERAGE homeowner, hands down, is an electric. No stinking gas engine that MIGHT start. No gas to mix or go bad. No fouled spark plugs. Just hit the switch and you're running. I have 2 electrics and 3 gas with one Stihl and a Poulan with an old Homelite bringing up the rear. The Homelite is the FAR more reliable of any of them. The Stihl is crap as it hardly will ever start if it sits more than 6 months. The Poulan starts but like it was stated above is pretty much a lightweight disposable unit. The Homelite runs no matter what. The electrics, both will out cut any of the gas units. WE have oak and mesquite here. Both can make a chainsaw throw sparks it's so tough and hard. An electric goes right thru it. All you need is a good extension cord and chain bar oil. With 5 saws available to me, the electrics come out because they are a no brainer when it comes to power and reliability. For ranch use, I usually take my tool trailer and it has a generator on it but that doesn't work for everybody. If you want hassle free, get to the project and get it over with, you'll be wanting an electric. My only regret is not having one sooner.


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## r___r (May 5, 2015)

I had to lookup when I bought the Echo from Home Depot. I've gotten 13 years from it, not the 15 years I posted above.

Stihl is the best(JMO), but for the Homeowner, this echo gets it done.

It has a 14" bar. It's lightweight, so no fatigue especially when sawing limbs overhead(not for the inexperienced) while trimming up in the trees. It gets used on logs and tree stumps, too. I, also, have a McCulloch with 20" bar and a Stihl Kombi System with pole saw.

It's my go-to saw, because it handles most around the property.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Daniel Holzman said:


> I am not sure you can sharpen a carbide chain, certainly I have never tried to sharpen a carbide tipped table saw blade or a carbide tipped router bit.


You would need to take it to a dealer who would use a diamond grinding wheel. Becuse of that, no one who cuts any amount of wood uses carbide chains, they're generally reserved for rescue/fire crews where the benefit has no price tag. I'm sure gregzoll is confused, as normal..........


To the OP, I wouldn't expect to get 40 years out of any chainsaw now-a-days, and you're probably looking at speding $500+ to buy something that will still be worth fixing 20-25 years from now. It's really like anything else, if you use it heavily, pay upfront and get the better "vaule" over 20+ years, or go cheap and get 5-10 years in light use, and just buy it twice. Either option can make sense, it just depends on your use.

I would NOT suggest buying something like a Stihl 170 or 180, and expect that you're buying a Ferrari, Stihl's lowest homeowner saws are nothing like they're professional saws. Same goes for all the major chainsaw, Husky, Dolmar (Makita), Echo, etc.... They all make homeowners models, farm & ranch, Pro models arborist, etc....

Personally, if I was looking for a good price on a "new" middle of the line chainsaw, I'd probably buy this one here:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200622084_200622084


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

gregzoll said:


> That does not work, when your nearest electrical outlet is over two miles away from where you are clearing brush. Plus the electric motors do not have the torque as a gas unit.
> 
> Never had any issues with the Stihl that I had. Always started on one pull after putting it into choke.
> 
> As for the Harbor Freight model. That is great if you want to buy a new one every year. Those of us that buy something that will be dependable and can last up to 15 years or more. We are looking at a quality product.


Electrics have MORE torque than gas and it is a flatter curve. My Kevlar chaps say something to the effect of "won't stop an electric saw"

Ron


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ront02769 said:


> Electrics have MORE torque than gas and it is a flatter curve. My Kevlar chaps say something to the effect of "won't stop an electric saw"
> 
> Ron


There is no electric saw out there that has more torque then a decent gas model. Also the fact remains that a gas is always going to trump an electric, because you can use a gas saw anywhere and also when there is no power.

Who cares what your Kevlar Chaps state. They are made for a reason. The only electric saw that they will not stop is not going to be a electric chainsaw.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Ironically we have really good luck with Poulan. They are not as good as some of the bigger brands but the one I have will start on the 1st or 2nd pull after sitting for awhile, has plenty of power for "light" use. Now if I cut trees more I'd go with a stihl.


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

Electric chain saws are a terrible idea. When was the last time you needed to cut something 25' from an outlet? (I realize you can get 100' cords, but that's a PITA)

I have a Stihl MS-170
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms170/

It's a nice little saw, and didn't really cost all that much, all things considered.


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## jimn (Nov 13, 2010)

Certainly and electric saw is fine if all you deal with is maybe bucking small amounts of firewood, trimming and cleaning up tree fall after storms . However if you need it to cleanup after a big storm and you have no power, then the gas chain saw trumps the electric everyone .


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Stihl uses very hard steel in their chains and they seem to hold an edge longer. Keep a sharp chain and any should suit you well. 

Growing up all my Dad had was a sharp bow saw and a pair of loppers. Seemed to work well enough...


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

47_47 said:


> Stihl uses very hard steel in their chains and they seem to hold an edge longer. Keep a sharp chain and any should suit you well.
> 
> Growing up all my Dad had was a sharp bow saw and a pair of loppers. Seemed to work well enough...


Oregon chains last longer then the Stihl brand.

I went through two bars and three chains, until I switched to the Carbide chain. No problems clearing storm debris with it.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Sorry, I was using my first hand experience. I had compared an Oregon to a Stihl on my 391. Both full 3/8", full chisel, non skip, not anti kick back, 20" chains. I got 6 hours bucking through 16"-18" ash from the Stihl and only 2-3 hours from the Oregon. Sharpened both to factory angles on a Granberg and next day similar results. I based the time on the chips and cutting effort.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

There's your problem! Using actual facts ands real life experience!

Ron


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

NickTheGreat said:


> Electric chain saws are a terrible idea. When was the last time you needed to cut something 25' from an outlet? (I realize you can get 100' cords, but that's a PITA)
> 
> I have a Stihl MS-170
> http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/homeowner-saws/ms170/
> ...


Tell me about it. The 170 & 180 do not have much difference, except that the 180 can take a 16" bar. I loved that saw before I sold it. It could sit for a year and always started on first pull after choke.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

47_47 said:


> Sorry, I was using my first hand experience. I had compared an Oregon to a Stihl on my 391. Both full 3/8", full chisel, non skip, not anti kick back, 20" chains. I got 6 hours bucking through 16"-18" ash from the Stihl and only 2-3 hours from the Oregon. Sharpened both to factory angles on a Granberg and next day similar results. I based the time on the chips and cutting effort.


Yes there are changes in the steel alloy quality in any type of tool. I always had a problem with the cheaper chains wearing out in no time. That is why I went with the Carbide chain. I would take it up to my in-laws when we would go up there, to fall trees on their property. Never had issues cutting everything from Pine to Walnut when I went with the Carbide chain.

I know that it is easier to swap out chains as you go. But when you are under time constraints, you do not have the time to pull the bar & chain to swap out with the spare, while someone is sharpening the other chain.

Also remember that how much oil and the type of oil that you are using for the Bar/Chain oilier, makes a huge difference.


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

......


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

It all depends what you need it for. The "average" homeowner really shouldn't go anywhere near a chainsaw if you ask me. It is an extremely dangerous tool and homeowners are unlikely to get training or safety gear. It's like asking what is the best jackhammer for the average homeowner. How often do you have to cut whole trees? If you have to, you can rent a well maintained saw with all the gear. 

A typical homeowner maybe wants to do a little pruning, cut some small landscape trees, or the occasional 5" branch that falls in a storm. A reciprocating saw (with a 9 inch pruning blade for $3) would be cheaper, easier, safer, and more useful. 

If you still want the chainsaw, the electric ones (corded, not battery) do work surprisingly well. Gas chainsaws are finicky and difficult to start. They are more expensive. They are heavy. And they are loud. And they get hot. And make fumes. And they require more maintenance. And you have to buy gas. Gas chainsaws are a huge pain in the butt compared to pulling out an extension cord. 

I have a Poulan and a Stihl (both gas) and I hate both of them. I have used a few corded ones, even a super cheap Walmart one, and they are just a breath of fresh air. This one is on my Christmas list: 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Worx-16-in-14-5-Amp-Electric-Chainsaw-WG303-1/202488903

I am tempted by those electric pole saws as well. Getting your body farther away from danger while giving you some extra reach intuitively seems like a good idea. But I have never used one of them. 

If you still want to be the macho man with the gas chainsaw, get a small one. That 20" bar is just going to get in the way far more often than you will ever use it. A smaller saw is lighter, easier to handle, and easier to store.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

mathmonger said:


> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Worx-16-in-14-5-Amp-Electric-Chainsaw-WG303-1/202488903
> 
> I am tempted by those electric pole saws as well. Getting your body farther away from danger while giving you some extra reach intuitively seems like a good idea. But I have never used one of them. .



They can be extremely hard on your back. The greater they are extended the greater the torque on your back. On a ladder and using them greatly compounds the problem.

The 10" convertible model that I own rarely gets used with the pole. The 10" saw OTOH has great balance and cuts like a dream.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

47_47 said:


> Sorry, I was using my first hand experience. I had compared an Oregon to a Stihl on my 391. Both full 3/8", full chisel, non skip, not anti kick back, 20" chains. I got 6 hours bucking through 16"-18" ash from the Stihl and only 2-3 hours from the Oregon. Sharpened both to factory angles on a Granberg and next day similar results. I based the time on the chips and cutting effort.


Strange, you've had similar results to me. I own probably 12 chains between 16" and 25", and I've always found the Stihl chains to stay sharp longer than the Oregons. I do hand file alot though, like every 1-2 tanks of fuel, so I get decent life out of chains before I have to send them through the bench sharpener. About the only time I sway away from Stihl chains is the 25", I've bought a few Carlton chains and a br to save a little monsy, and they've done well.......


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

mathmonger said:


> If you still want the chainsaw, the electric ones (corded, not battery) do work surprisingly well. Gas chainsaws are finicky and difficult to start. They are more expensive. They are heavy. And they are loud. And they get hot. And make fumes. And they require more maintenance. And you have to buy gas. Gas chainsaws are a huge pain in the butt compared to pulling out an extension cord.


You make some great points, no one needs a chainsaw to lop off a couple lilac limbs once every 5 years. And a Sawzall is a much more versatal & safer tool.

I have to say this though. I heat my house with wood, via a wood furnace connected to the supply and return ducts in my basement. I love the independce of being able to heat with wood, and feeling no guilt having the house warmer than it really needs to be. I go through 3-5 cords of well seasoned wood a year, depending on weather. Icould probably goof around with a little cheapy homeowner saw to save some money on the front end, but by buying a good or great saw right away, you're actually getting a much better value in the long run IF you cut a lot of wood.

Also, from a safety standpoint, if you're doing any kind of sawing on a regular basis, you're absolutely crazy not to own at least protective chaps and steel toe boots. I've had buddies ask why I "wasted" $100 on chaps, & I simply ask them how much their health care deductable is.............


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

jomama45 said:


> I heat my house with wood


I have no argument with that! Anybody who heats their house with wood in Wisconsin probably needs a decent gas chainsaw. Or five. 

From a safety standpoint, chaps and boots are great, but I think knowing what you are doing is paramount. I took a weekend course many years ago that completely opened my eyes. In addition to the obvious danger of the spinning chain, trees are really heavy and there are some huge forces involved. 

Sometimes if you cut the wrong branch, it'll spring back and hit you like a baseball bat. Or a whole tree will roll over on top of you. My grandfather broke his neck when he cut a branch that was supporting the branch that was supporting his ladder. It's not always obvious.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I don't go to rock concerts, have a motocross bike, snowmobile, speed boat, sports car or go sky diving. The biggest adrenaline rush I get is from running loud obnoxious power tools. I also have about 2500 sqft of concrete to break up so I am thinking about a jack hammer. :devil3:


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