# Help Me Get to 200,000 Miles



## askbob (May 30, 2018)

I have a 2010 PT cruiser, and thus far it's in pretty fine shape. Been keeping up with with maintenance and repairs, and it has about 115,000 miles on it. I'd love to stretch it's life, maybe even hit the big 2-0-0 on it! I have had no major problems with it, and I just did some tie-rod replacement and front-end alignment as well. 

Now I want to do what I can preventative. I just need to know the few key things I should work on next to ensure I can get the most out of it before something major happens. The number one thing I keep hearing is replacing the timing chain before it brakes (as this has been known to wreck a motor).

Should that be my next item of business? And are there any other major things I should preemptively fix/replace before they become a major problem?


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Are you north of the road salt line, Virginia or so? If you are south of that and otherwise don't deal with winter road salt then they last a lot longer. If in a salt area other repairs are probably necessary.

Bud


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

askbob said:


> I have a 2010 PT cruiser, and thus far it's in pretty fine shape. Been keeping up with with maintenance and repairs, and it has about 115,000 miles on it. I'd love to stretch it's life, maybe even hit the big 2-0-0 on it! I have had no major problems with it, and I just did some tie-rod replacement and front-end alignment as well.
> 
> Now I want to do what I can preventative. I just need to know the few key things I should work on next to ensure I can get the most out of it before something major happens. The number one thing I keep hearing is replacing the timing chain before it brakes (as this has been known to wreck a motor).
> 
> Should that be my next item of business? And are there any other major things I should preemptively fix/replace before they become a major problem?


If you still have the original timing chain (belt) at 115,000, you've gone too far and are on borrowed time. What does your owner's manual say about replacement interval?
.
.


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## askbob (May 30, 2018)

Bud9051 said:


> Are you north of the road salt line, Virginia or so? If you are south of that and otherwise don't deal with winter road salt then they last a lot longer. If in a salt area other repairs are probably necessary.
> 
> Bud


In Ohio. We can get bad winter days with lots of snow/salt, but it's not all the time. Very sporadic. Some winters it's a few days, some a few weeks. Others, hardly any at all.



ZZZZZ said:


> If you still have the original timing chain (belt) at 115,000, you've gone too far and are on borrowed time. What does your owner's manual say about replacement interval?
> .
> .


Not sure, but I'm sure it's due. With so many different mechanics telling me this, I had planned to change it for sure. Just need to know what other timing-chain like things are about to go bad that I should jump on before they do.


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

askbob said:


> Not sure, but I'm sure it's due. With so many different mechanics telling me this, I had planned to change it for sure. Just need to know what other timing-chain like things are about to go bad that I should jump on before they do.


Again, all cars are different. The manual will tell you what to change or replace, and when. 

Most parts like brakes and shocks can be inspected or tested and it is fairly obvious when to replace or re-do them. Some things such as your alternator work just fine until they die or wear out, and they don't really need to be "jumped on" proactively, unless you want to spend a lot of money.
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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

I had a '00 Silverado that had 265,000 miles on it when I sold it. Here are some tips on what I did that got it that far.

Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. 

Use only name brand quality service parts and products, i.e. fluids, filters, brake pads etc.

Stay away from "miracle product" engine additives. Most of them are useless and in some cases will actually damage your engine. As long as you use quality fluids and change them per the manufacturer's recommendation, you should not have any issues.

Keep the vehicle clean including the engine and address little issues immediately. Keeping the engine clean will allow you to easily spot leaks indicating possible worn seals and gaskets. An ignored little problem can quickly turn into an expensive major issue.

A clean vehicle will help you spot and address potential rust issues. Remember to crawl around under the vehicle and check the chassis and fittings for rust especially if you live in an area that salt the roads during winter.

To prevent rust be sure to wash the underside often especially in the winter. Some car washes have an undercarriage wash which helps with this. Any chassis rust should be brushed off with a wire brush followed by some flat black Rustolium. 

Good luck.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

You are definitely in the salt area so Brake lines and fuel lines can be an unexpected problem and expense. Plus every bolt under there is in trouble. 4years ago I had to give up on an 05 GMC truck as everything added up to be more than the truck would be worth even at 100K miles. Shopping now for a back up truck but must come from below the salt line.

Once the salt gets to the body you know it is getting everything else. When is unknown but once you see rust it is too late.

Bud


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Like "location, location, location" is to real estate, "Change the oil, change the oil, change the oil" is to a long engine life. It's cheap insurance. I do it myself, for $20 or less, buying the oil and filter on sale. Takes 30 minutes, 20 once you get good at it.
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## askbob (May 30, 2018)

All good tips, thanks everyone!
@Drachenfire - What do you mean by keeping the engine clean? Are you just talking about tune up/oil changes? Because I try to keep up with that already.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Your biggest enemy, like Bud said, is the salt, and while that immediately brings up images of rotted fenders and other body components, it affects every nut and bolt under there, and you're not going to literally replace every one of them, so as time goes by routine and thorough inspections become increasingly necessary to possibly avoid critical components coming loose, which of course happens at the least opportune times. And then there are components affected by time, most of them more so in the northern states where temperature swings are more significant. One that comes to mind is spark plugs, which many manufacturers will tell you should last XXX,XXX miles, and that's all well and good, but the part they don't mention is that there are many times that spark plugs gall into the heads, and suddenly the cost of a simple spark plug change goes through the roof. Gaskets, seals, and other consumables wear and break down over time, so, again, regular inspections become more and more important. For a 100,000 mile vehicle, I would guess that the majority of them have the original coolant, power steering, brake, and transmission fluids, but if going for double that I would definitely change them, and that's not something you want to put off too long, because radiators for example are prone to opening leaks that weren't there before when the system is flushed and all of the gunk that had built up is flushed out along with chunks of whatever it was attached to.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> keeping the engine clean?


Take it to a car wash and wash the engine. It will let you know if you have oil leaks, etc. At the UPS distribution center in North Atlanta, Every truck at the end of its shift goes into a wash bay where the cab is lifted and the engine/transmission is washed. It helps them to detect oil leaks, and thus reduce breakdowns due to poor maintenance.

My truck is a different animal, but I find that keeping the engine clean, checking the oil regularly, not only for quantity, but to see how dirty it is. Use recommended fluids and shy away from fix-it snake oils. Your engine doesn't need them. Small things like windshield wipers can go wonky at the least expected time, so change them regularly.

"Feeling" your vehicle is important. How it drives. Does it vibrate? Are the tires in balance? How does it idle?

I try to do all the preventive maintenance to keep from having to do disaster fixes. Mine is a 19 year old Cummins Diesel with 540,000 miles on it, and it is of the age to where it needs more and more attention. It comes with the territory.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Around here it is not permitted to wash an engine at a car wash. Check it out. 

Timing chains?? Not a normal maintenence item (like timing BELTS). But you should keep an ear on it, listen for unusual clickety clacking, belt getting loose, slapping against the engine. That would be a sign. 

Biggest thing for me about longevity, as mentioned very well above, keep salt off the car's body. Other thing to me is a big limiting factor is the dreaded automatic transmissions of Chrysler vehicles. Are you lucky enough that your car is a manual transmission? If not, you are held hostage. Change that tranny fluid as often as possible. Some think praying helps.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I used to regularly, but for the most part have stopped pressure washing engine due to all of the electronics under the hood, but what I do instead, and doesn't take as long as it might sound like, is mix some Dawn dish washing soap and water in a spray bottle, hit all of the belts, hoses, valve covers, etc. etc, etc., use something the likes of a toilet brush on stubborn areas, let it soak for 15-20 minutes, then rinse it off with a soft spray. It provides more of a detailed look, sometimes actually does a better job than just pressure washing as long as its' more or less just every day road grime, and, as mentioned, doesn't saturate sensitive electronics. The main thing is to keep the engine bay in a state that you can spot a problem or potential problem before it becomes a major problem.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

askbob said:


> All good tips, thanks everyone!
> @Drachenfire - What do you mean by keeping the engine clean? Are you just talking about tune up/oil changes? Because I try to keep up with that already.


Wash the engine periodically. When the engine is clean, it is easier to see leaks from worn gaskets or seals. It is also easier to work on without dirt and grime all over it.

I use Meguiar's D10801 Super Degreaser. It is a concentrate available on-line in 1 gallon bottles. Using a spray bottle, mix it with water at a ratio of 10:1. If the engine is really dirty use a 4-8:1 ratio. 

Because it is a concentrate mixed at such high ratio, the gallon will last a long time.

1. Spray the cold engine using a light spray pattern of water.
2. Spray the engine with the diluted Meguiar's Super Degreaser
3. Allow the degreaser to soak for 45 seconds (yes that is seconds) DO NOT allow the product to dry on the engine.
4. Rinse the engine thoroughly again using a light spray of water.
5. Allow the engine to dry.

Meguiar's rinses clean without any white residue often seen in many other degreasers. 

*NOTE:* It is important that you use only a light spray. Although the electronics and electrical components in the engine bay are designed to handle water spray, using a powerful jet-like spray could force water into the components leading to corrosion or a short.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Trade it on a Toyota and start over. ;-)


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