# 5-1/4" door jam?



## PaliBob

You want to buy a 3/0x6/8 entry door. This is the most common size for an Entry door. Entry doors are 1-3/4" thick as compared to interior doors which are commonly 1-3/8" thick.

The door jamb is not usually replaced when replacing the door and the door jamb is not a part of replacement doors.
Talk to the door salesman to get a better idea of what is involved in replacing a door. It is not an easy DIY project without some basic door hanging skills.

I recently inquired at HD about an el cheapo replacement back door for a neighbor. The store had a sign that said that HD is now offering a door replacement service for this ~ $85 door for a minimum of $387. But hey that includes the price of the door.
.


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## Just Bill

Modern doors are a complete system, including weatherstriping that seals all four sides. Older doors don't provide adequate sealing, so it is better to replace the whole door and jambs with new. Jambs are available in any width, but usually only on special order. 4 9/16 is standard for a 2x4 framed house. Local lumberyards often have on site door shops to custom make non-standard width or height doors and jambs.


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## rjniles

Buy a standard 3-0,6-8 standard pre-hung exterior door. The door is sized with 4- 9/16th jambs for 2 by 4 walls. Install the door and cut extension jambs to bring the jambs out flush with the interior wall surface. 

I second buying a pre -hung unit and not trying to install a slab door in the existing jamb.


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## Tom Struble

no:no: always install extension jambs to the exterior side of an in swing door to avoid door to frame interference,and you will need a sill extension


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## cbzdel

tomstruble said:


> no:no: always install extension jambs to the exterior side of an in swing door to avoid door to frame interference,and you will need a sill extension


You would have to cut off the brick molding then, correct?

If that is the case would it be easier to buy the wider door, what is it 6-1/2" and then just trim it down to 5-1/4 with a table saw and then put my own trim on the door?


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## tpolk

where are you measuring


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## rjniles

cbzdel said:


> You would have to cut off the brick molding then, correct?
> 
> If that is the case would it be easier to buy the wider door, what is it 6-1/2" and then just trim it down to 5-1/4 with a table saw and then put my own trim on the door?


No do not remove the brick mold. Install the door so that the brick mold is flush with the outside sheathing. Then add small strips of wood (extension jambs) on the inside. Cut these from 1 '' clear pine (3/4 actual) on the table saw to bring the inside of the jamb out flush with the finished wall. Install the extensions with glue and small finish nails. If you nail to the outside of the jambs the casings will cover the nail holes.Then install the inside casing.

If you try to cut down a wider assembled jamb with a table saw you will end up with a royal mess.

Sorry, I must have been having a brain f**t.

You can't add the extension jambs to the inside. You must remove the brick mold and add the extensions to the outside. After removing the brick mold, install the door flush with the inside wall finish. Install the extensions outside and reinstall the brick mold.


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## Tom Struble

the brick mould is really just tack stapled and removes very easily,which is why you never use it to secure the door in the opening

pull the brick-mould install the extension jambs [use glue and finish nails]
add your sill extension,reinstall your brick mould,again using glue and nails


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## kwikfishron

Extensions should always go to the non-hinged side of the jamb.


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## bjbatlanta

I just replaced a door yesterday for a customer who had the same situation. The deal was (in this case) that the door was set on top of the siding (RB&B) which necessitated an extra 3/4" of jamb. The original door(s) must have been special ordered by the builder with the 5-3/8" jambs as they are one piece, no extension added. I just set the new door in the hole, traced the outline of the brick mold, and cut the siding back to allow the door to sit in the hole properly. A little bit of caulk and it looks great.


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## cbzdel

tpolk said:


> where are you measuring


The thickness includes the 2x4 wall, the outside of the 2x4 wall is sheathed with 3/4" T&G, and a double layer of drywall on the inside. I am not sure why there is double drywall but its what is there.. The house was built in the 40s.

I am not including the siding, as I am residing this portion of the house after the door is installed. 

Looking at adding an extension to the inside I dont think this will work as the door swings in, this would limit how far the door opens, we like to open the door a full 180 degrees to let the wind come in and keep the door out of the middle of the room. So I think it would have to be added to the outside face.


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## PaliBob

cbzdel, It sounds to me like you may have seen this $200 door set up as a display mounted model, so you assume the jamb is included. Most replacement doors sold at LOWE'S are sold ala carte i.e. without the jambs. If the door jamb is included, the door is known as a prehung door.

Ask the salesman whether or not the door you looked at is prehung.
.


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## cbzdel

PaliBob said:


> cbzdel, It sounds to me like you may have seen this $200 door set up as a display mounted model, so you assume the jamb is included. Most replacement doors sold at LOWE'S are sold ala carte i.e. without the jambs. If the door jamb is included, the door is known as a prehung door.
> 
> Ask the salesman whether or not the door you looked at is prehung.
> .


Its a pre-hung door. At my Lowes, the majority of the doors come pre-hung. I viewed the door as sold with the frame, it came hung on a 2x4 wall frame and a 2x6 wall frame. But my door jam is a strange size, totaling out to a 5-1/4" jamb depth, so I am in the middle of the two sizes.


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## bjbatlanta

Yep, it's the two layers of drywall messing you up. Add the extension to the outside and reattach the brick mold. You're correct, the door won't open properly if you add to the inside. You could do as Bob suggested and just hang a new slab, but it's nice to have the new threshold and weatherstripping all in one..


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## cbzdel

I am replacing the complete whole frame because the current wood is damaged and starting to rot  (the rot is isolated to the door frame and does not effect the structure at all)

Otherwise I would just do a slab door.


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## nap

so, what you need to do is purchase a door with a 6 9/16 jamb (which is for a 2X6 wall framing material) and either you cut it down or have it cut down for you.

Lowes can get you special sizes if you want them to do it for you.

For you to cut it down, you would need to remove the brick moulding and cut back the side and top boards to whatever dimension you need and then reinstall the brick mould.

It is better to cut down the 6 9/16 that use a 4 9/16 and an extension IMO.


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## rjniles

nap said:


> so, what you need to do is purchase a door with a 6 9/16 jamb (which is for a 2X6 wall framing material) and either you cut it down or have it cut down for you.
> 
> Lowes can get you special sizes if you want them to do it for you.
> 
> For you to cut it down, you would need to remove the brick moulding and cut back the side and top boards to whatever dimension you need and then reinstall the brick mould.
> 
> It is better to cut down the 6 9/16 that use a 4 9/16 and an extension IMO.


Sorry but I disagree, unless you disassemble the frame so you could trim it on a table saw, it will be very difficult to get an even cut. Adding extension jambs is much easier.


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## nap

to each their own.


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## kwikfishron

I’ve put in doors that came from Lowes with T&G jamb extensions.

The jamb on the door had the groove and the extension had the tung. 

Put in the door rip the extension glue in and done.


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## Tom Struble

you know,if this door is in an exposed location you may be better off using a jamb made out of a composite material,in that case id special order it


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## cbzdel

tomstruble said:


> you know,if this door is in an exposed location you may be better off using a jamb made out of a composite material,in that case id special order it


nope, covered porch :thumbsup:

I bought the door for a 4-1/2" wall.

While at the hardware store I spoke to the door "specialist" and he told me what he recommended. He said remove the brick molding and trim the brick molding in a table saw to the correct thickness then reattach it, then use your own trim on the outside of the door, trim that matches the rest of your house.

What do you guys think? It makes since to me, as the brick mold looks nothing like the rest of the trim on my house.


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## Tom Struble

if the origional door was under a covered porch ...why did the frame rot?


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## rjniles

cbzdel said:


> nope, covered porch :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> While at the hardware store I spoke to the door "specialist" and he told me what he recommended. He said remove the brick molding and trim the brick molding in a table saw to the correct thickness then reattach it, then use your own trim on the outside of the door, trim that matches the rest of your house.


You are going to cut the brick mold down to use as an extension jamb? Why?

Use 1" clear stock or composite trim board


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## cbzdel

tomstruble said:


> if the origional door was under a covered porch ...why did the frame rot?


the door is the original door from the 40's, a covered porch was built within the past 3 years.


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## cbzdel

rjniles said:


> You are going to cut the brick mold down to use as an extension jamb? Why?
> 
> Use 1" clear stock or composite trim board


figured then I would not have to buy any wood, I have lots of exterior trim left over, it seems as I could just run the existing brick mold down a table saw and my problem would be solved. If its a bad idea I will stay away.


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## kwikfishron

cbzdel said:


> figured then I would not have to buy any wood, I have lots of exterior trim left over, it seems as I could just run the existing brick mold down a table saw and my problem would be solved. If its a bad idea I will stay away.


It will work just fine.


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## rjniles

Usually the brick mold is finger jointed pine. When you mill it down small enough to use as an extension jamb it will be very flimsy at the joints. I would use a composite board to cut the extensions and composite exterior trim. But as NAP said; "to each his own"


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## Tom Struble

you know you can buy a 2500$pre hung door and unless you specify they always put them in those 15$ frames,that fj white ''wood'' is junk


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