# Leaking Valve Cover Gasket 2004 Toyota Camry 4CYL 2.4L Engine



## lenaitch

I just Googled '2004 Toyota Camry Valve Cover Gasket' and got a couple of YouTube replacement videos and forums.


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## de-nagorg

Isn't there a Chilton's manual sold for this car?

But the quality of their manuals have left me wondering what happened to their staff, all died? maybe in the last 50 years, I have been using their manuals at least that long, Still have them in my library, for future reference.


ED


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## Drachenfire

de-nagorg said:


> Isn't there a Chilton's manual sold for this car?
> 
> But the quality of their manuals have left me wondering what happened to their staff, all died? maybe in the last 50 years, I have been using their manuals at least that long, Still have them in my library, for future reference.
> 
> 
> ED


Same here. I have one for each of my vehicles. YouTube is also a wealth of information.

At any rate, a vavle cover gasket would be a realtively easy fix since it is a 4-cylinder engine and the cover sits on top. Those side mounted V-6s are a pain.

Just make sure both mating surfaces are absolutly clean or the cover will continue to leak.


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## BigJim

I don't know if that gasket is made into the cover or not but on some cars you have to replace the entire cover, not just a gasket. Here is a video on how:


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## JIMMIEM

de-nagorg said:


> Isn't there a Chilton's manual sold for this car?
> 
> But the quality of their manuals have left me wondering what happened to their staff, all died? maybe in the last 50 years, I have been using their manuals at least that long, Still have them in my library, for future reference.
> 
> 
> ED


Yes, there is a Chilton's manual for this. I went to a library and was able to photocopy the pages I need. None of the Youtube videos followed Chilton's exactly as written....each did some things exactly as Chilton's described and other things differently. I'm not sure if the variations made any difference but I figured better safe than sorry.
Thank You for directing me to Chilton's.


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## de-nagorg

I suggest that when you buy a new gasket, that you pay for a rubber one, not those cheap cork ones.

The cork dries out over time and leaks, as you have now.

The rubber ones can be reused several times and last long enough that the car is a junker before they need replaced.

Also the rubber ones will seal better if the mating surfaces are a little wore, and the cork ones are harder to get to seal.

And YOU'RE WELCOME for the good advice, it makes me think that all my experience is still useful.


ED


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## SeniorSitizen

When I see a valve cover leak it makes me wanna check the crank case pressure and PVC valve function.


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## JIMMIEM

de-nagorg said:


> I suggest that when you buy a new gasket, that you pay for a rubber one, not those cheap cork ones.
> 
> The cork dries out over time and leaks, as you have now.
> 
> The rubber ones can be reused several times and last long enough that the car is a junker before they need replaced.
> 
> Also the rubber ones will seal better if the mating surfaces are a little wore, and the cork ones are harder to get to seal.
> 
> And YOU'RE WELCOME for the good advice, it makes me think that all my experience is still useful.
> 
> 
> ED


I bought a FELPRO rubber gasket at AUTOZONE.
Thank You, again.
There is no substitute for experience and it is always useful!


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## JIMMIEM

SeniorSitizen said:


> When I see a valve cover leak it makes me wanna check the crank case pressure and PVC valve function.


I figure I can handle the valve cover. If there is anything else I'll let my mechanic handle it. I've never done a lot of car repair work.....just the DIY type stuff that doesn't require special tools or know-how.


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## de-nagorg

Another thought.

Careful tightening the valve cover bolts, too tight, they snap off. Been there, done that.

Also try to get an even tightness over the entire valve cover, one tighter than the others , warps the cover a bit, and is another potential leak.


ED


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## SeniorSitizen

de-nagorg said:


> Another thought.
> 
> Careful tightening the valve cover bolts, too tight, they snap off. Been there, done that.
> 
> Also try to get an even tightness over the entire valve cover, one tighter than the others , warps the cover a bit, and is another potential leak.
> 
> 
> ED


Did I detect some confusion on torque in the vid ? OR is my hearing worse than I admit and my wife is correct.


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## SeniorSitizen

JIMMIEM said:


> I figure I can handle the valve cover. If there is anything else I'll let my mechanic handle it. I've never done a lot of car repair work.....just the DIY type stuff that doesn't require special tools or know-how.


Being you considered doing the valve cover gasket I just estimated you could check crank case vacuum. If you are interested in DIY without special tools, I can post how to make a simple water manometer for an estimated $1.89 to check crank case vacuum and it takes about 30 seconds. The more difficult part may be finding what the negative pressure specification for your engine.


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## JIMMIEM

de-nagorg said:


> Another thought.
> 
> Careful tightening the valve cover bolts, too tight, they snap off. Been there, done that.
> 
> Also try to get an even tightness over the entire valve cover, one tighter than the others , warps the cover a bit, and is another potential leak.
> 
> 
> ED


The Chilton's manual had a page that contained a lot of spec info including the bolt torque specs....I made a copy of the page. I recently bought a torque wrench for a project I had.....never thought I would get to use the torque wrench again.......never say never. Yes, I will tighten evenly.....I remember seeing a diagram for tightening wheel lug nuts that went in a back and forth zig zag.
Thank You again for the tips.
Couple more questions:
Chilton's said to disconnect Negative battery terminal.....is this to protect me or the electrical system? Which if any settings will have to be re-programmed?
RTV sealant is supposed to be use to create gaskets in the vicinity of the timing chain....is this outside the perimeter of the valve cover gasket? The Toyota product is twice the cost of the product I found at AUTOZONE....is the Toyota stuff that much better and necessary?


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## JIMMIEM

SeniorSitizen said:


> Being you considered doing the valve cover gasket I just estimated you could check crank case vacuum. If you are interested in DIY without special tools, I can post how to make a simple water manometer for an estimated $1.89 to check crank case vacuum and it takes about 30 seconds. The more difficult part may be finding what the negative pressure specification for your engine.


Yes, thank you...I would appreciate it if you would post that info.


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## Brainbucket

I have come across some Toyota 2.4 valve covers that had cracked front toward firewall on the back side. I replace gasket only to fine the crack. Look carefully or how I found it was run engine and look for the oil trail. :vs_cool:


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## SeniorSitizen

JIMMIEM said:


> Yes, thank you...I would appreciate it if you would post that info.



Of all vehicles I've owned in the last 30 or so years I have always found a diameter of clear plastic tubing that, when square cut on the end, would go into the dip stick tubing and seal to work as a water Manometer. A drop of food color makes for better visible if you like.

Disregard the wood dowel zip tied to this tubing pictured as that is for a completely different purpose.:smile:


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## SeniorSitizen

The plastic tubing Manometer is also used to check gas pressure on my furnace.


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## de-nagorg

Disconnecting the battery is just a legal disclaimer that their lawyers demand they include.

Should not need to in a valve cover gasket replacement.

RTV is not needed here, so don't use it.

As for a manufacturers part being better.

Parts are all made at the same factory, just placed in different brand boxes, parts are parts, period.

I have worked at an oil filter factory, and made many different brands from the same material, painted different colors, and different boxes.


ED


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## JIMMIEM

de-nagorg said:


> Disconnecting the battery is just a legal disclaimer that their lawyers demand they include.
> 
> Should not need to in a valve cover gasket replacement.
> 
> RTV is not needed here, so don't use it.
> 
> As for a manufacturers part being better.
> 
> Parts are all made at the same factory, just placed in different brand boxes, parts are parts, period.
> 
> I have worked at an oil filter factory, and made many different brands from the same material, painted different colors, and different boxes.
> 
> 
> ED


Chilton's gave specific instructions and a diagram showing where a couple of dabs of the RTV sealant should be put when reinstalling the valve cover. The RTV sealant areas are on the surface that the valve cover will rest on and are at the front and back in the vicinity of the timing chain. Don't need it?
I worked in a meat packing plant and the same hot dogs were put in different wrappers for different retailers.


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## SeniorSitizen

How does a engine leak oil at the valve cover if the pvc valve is doing its job of maintaining a negative crankcase pressure? Maybe it isn't as important as I thought.


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## JIMMIEM

SeniorSitizen said:


> Of all vehicles I've owned in the last 30 or so years I have always found a diameter of clear plastic tubing that, when square cut on the end, would go into the dip stick tubing and seal to work as a water Manometer. A drop of food color makes for better visible if you like.
> 
> Disregard the wood dowel zip tied to this tubing pictured as that is for a completely different purpose.:smile:


OK. What do I connect the ends to and what am I checking for?


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## de-nagorg

JIMMIEM said:


> Chilton's gave specific instructions and a diagram showing where a couple of dabs of the RTV sealant should be put when reinstalling the valve cover. The RTV sealant areas are on the surface that the valve cover will rest on and are at the front and back in the vicinity of the timing chain. Don't need it?
> I worked in a meat packing plant and the same hot dogs were put in different wrappers for different retailers.


The RTV is likely there to seal any slight warpage caused by faulty manufacturing, or over torque of the bolts.

If a person is careful, they wont over tighten them, and inspection of the surfaces will find any faulty manufacturing and correct the fault.

Use common sense and you will do fine.


ED


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## BigJim

On our grandson's car it calls for 17 inch pounds of torque on the cover bolts, any tighter and it will leak. Also the rubber gasket gets brittle and will not expand after a lot of use. 

The sealer in the sharp corners is because the gasket sometimes will not conform to such a sharp corner, the sealer will make sure it stops any oil.


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## JIMMIEM

de-nagorg said:


> The RTV is likely there to seal any slight warpage caused by faulty manufacturing, or over torque of the bolts.
> 
> If a person is careful, they wont over tighten them, and inspection of the surfaces will find any faulty manufacturing and correct the fault.
> 
> Use common sense and you will do fine.
> 
> 
> ED


Will do. Thank You.


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## Oso954

I'd suggest you follow the Chilton instructions regarding disconnection of the battery and the use of the RTV.
Skipping those steps could have consequences.


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## JIMMIEM

After removing the valve cover, cleaning everything up, and rereading the Chilton's instructions concerning the RTV sealant I realized what it is for.....I think.
I hope my terminology is correct. Assuming that the valve cover gasket seals the valve cover to the cylinder head (correct terminology?), the timing chain cover is bolted to the end of the cylinder head and provides part of the surface that the valve cover sits on. The RTV sealant makes a seal between the timing chain cover and cylinder head and the RTV sealant that is applied during the valve cover gasket replacement seals the top seam where the timing chain cover and cylinder head meet. 
Does this sound correct or should I* not* quit my day job?


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## de-nagorg

Sounds quite plausible.

Design engineeres often do NOT know what really works in reality, and "invent" many comical work arounds to justify their paycheck.

So use R T V sparingly in that area, just enough to seal, but not so much that it makes things worse.


ED


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## SeniorSitizen

JIMMIEM said:


> OK. What do I connect the ends to and what am I checking for?


The square cut end goes into the dip stick tube to make a seal and the other end goes up to atmosphere to form a U tube. You are looking for a small amount of negative pressure in the crankcase. I haven't been able to find the exact number Toyota recommends for that engine.

In the link scroll to Liquid Column Manometer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement


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## JIMMIEM

de-nagorg said:


> Sounds quite plausible.
> 
> Design engineeres often do NOT know what really works in reality, and "invent" many comical work arounds to justify their paycheck.
> 
> So use R T V sparingly in that area, just enough to seal, but not so much that it makes things worse.
> 
> 
> ED


I just used a small bead along each joint line. Per the instructions, the RTV was wet when the valve cover gasket was set on it. Instructions said to hand tighten the valve cover bolts, wait an hour, tighten down the valve cover bolts. I did the valve cover bolt tightening in a zig zag pattern. RTV instructions said to let dry 24 hours.....we have another car so I figured I'd let this one sit for a day and make the RTV product engineers proud.
Thank you again for your response.


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## JIMMIEM

SeniorSitizen said:


> The square cut end goes into the dip stick tube to make a seal and the other end goes up to atmosphere to form a U tube. You are looking for a small amount of negative pressure in the crankcase. I haven't been able to find the exact number Toyota recommends for that engine.
> 
> In the link scroll to Liquid Column Manometer.
> 
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure_measurement


I gave Wikipedia a quick read.....need to read it some more.


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## JIMMIEM

I had a click type foot/lbs torque wrench but most of the info that I have read said that these are not very accurate at the lower settings. Chilton's specified a 96 inch/lbs torque setting for the valve cover bolts. This would be 8 foot/lbs. My wrench started at 5 foot/lbs and I wasn't able to do any accurate testing around 8 foot/lbs. I did the tightening with a socket wrench and was careful not to overdo it. While the car was sitting and waiting for the RTV to dry I continued to overthink and found a Harbor Freight coupon for an inch/lbs torque wrench.....cost me $9.99. I bench tested it and the accuracy was very good. I used it on the valve cover bolts and nuts and got just a wee bit of additional tightening. I've done some driving and so far no leaks. 
Thanks Again for all the help!!!!!! I appreciate you taking the time to help me.


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## de-nagorg

That is exactly why most of us "mature" folks are here.

The satisfaction of being able to pass along any experiences that we have had, that might help others.

And the occasional accolades that we receive from the kinder individuals that had a question that we could help with.

ED


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