# How heavy is a concrete laundry tub?



## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

We have an old single compartment concrete laundry tub that looks kind of like this one (including the stand):










Although all of the water pipes on our property are copper, the hot and cold water pipes to this laundry tub are galvanized. I think what happened is when my Dad built our laundry room addition 30 years ago, he used galvanized pipes since that's what he had on hand.

Anyway, the cold water galvanized pipe right behind the faucet developed a leak due to corrosion. I need to move the laundry tub to open up the double wall to replace the galvanized pipes with copper pipes.

Any retired plumber out there that knows about how much a single compartment concrete laundry tub weighs?

Thanks,
HRG


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

About 70 pounds is a guess---Not to bad moving a single bowl sink like that--


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Still much more fun to break it up with a sludge hammer...


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## Tom738 (Jun 1, 2010)

More than 70, less than 200. I moved one that felt ~150 the other day, but it was a double. So probably under 100, anyway.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Measure it. Google Concrete weight calculator.

If its 32" x 30" x 24" tall on the outside, with 2" thick walls, its 7000 cubic inches and weighs 575 pounds.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

With a length of 2x4 lumber and bath scales you can weigh it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

SPS-1 said:


> Measure it. Google Concrete weight calculator.
> 
> If its 32" x 30" x 24" tall on the outside, with 2" thick walls, its 7000 cubic inches and weighs 575 pounds.


I didn't do any math but there's no way that the sink pictured weighs even close to 575 lbs.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Its easy to figure out the weight if its measured and you do the math. Without that, we are all taking WAGs. But figure if its made from 5 of these Lowes patio stones (4 sides plus bottom), its 400 pounds


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Some of those old sinks are actually soap stone.
Google says around 20 lb/sq ft.

My concern is the flimsy legs. Don't let them fold up on you!!


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## Doc Sheldon (Nov 23, 2014)

Not too many bath scales will go that high, I'm betting. Probably closer to 300# than 200... had one similar to that, was 1.5 inch thick... I moved it, but I couldn't get it up into the pickup without help.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

TheEplumber said:


> Google says around 20 lb/sq ft.



Something wrong in what you googled. Weight should be per cubic foot, not per square foot. Soapstone seems to be heavier than concrete.

The one in my parent's old house is a double with walls about 3" thick. It aint going anywhere.


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## Doc Sheldon (Nov 23, 2014)

Dang! That's a lot of kin per cubic shaku!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Doc Sheldon said:


> Not too many bath scales will go that high, I'm betting. Probably closer to 300# than 200... had one similar to that, was 1.5 inch thick... I moved it, but I couldn't get it up into the pickup without help.


We'll only be weighing half of it + half the stand weight X 2


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

oh'mike, Ghostmaker, Tom738, SPS-1, SeniorSitizen, kwikfishron, TheEplumber and DocSheldon (hope I didn't miss anyone),

Thanks all for your replies. 

SPS-1 came up with a good idea about using an online concrete calculator that I didn't think of doing. Measuring the 4 walls and assuming that the bottom is also 1.2 inches thick like the walls, using an online concrete calculator I came up with 134.8 lbs.

Oh and thank you TheEplumber for the warning about the legs folding up on me. The legs are old and a little rusty so I can see that happening. I would have overlooked it without your warning.

Thanks again,
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

I've come up with an idea for moving the laundry tub that I'd like to run by you guys.

The tub's drain goes into a trap and then the pipe runs horizontally into the double wall. It's made out of black ABS. 

I'm thinking about removing the drain completely from the tub and then using an automotive floor jack and a piece of 2x6 lumber under the tub. Raise the tub to remove weight off the legs and then cut the leg assembly so I can remove the legs. (As TheEplumber pointed out, the legs are flimsy anyway so no loss cutting to remove them.) 

I might have to use additional lumber on top of the jack to attain the height needed if the jack cannot go up high enough. Then lower the tub all the way down and use the automotive floor jack to move it since the jack has wheels.

When reinstalling the tub, jack it back up and install a new leg assembly made out of an old bed frame. I think I can assemble the bed frame leg assembly by bolting it together. I'll use stainless steel bolts. Then lower the tub on the new bed frame legs.

If you see any kinks in my plan please let me know,
HRG


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## shepard25 (Dec 5, 2014)

pretty heavy I guess. 80 pounds maybe


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Just a thought-- nice new fiberglass wall mounted sink is a little less than $100 from my plumbing supplier--and the old sink can be broken up with a hammer--just seriously joking---


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

shepard25 said:


> pretty heavy I guess. 80 pounds maybe


In a previous post, I calculated the weight to be 134.8 lbs. After I disconnect the drain, I'll probably be able to tell if it's closer to 80 or 135 lbs.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> Just a thought-- nice new fiberglass wall mounted sink is a little less than $100 from my plumbing supplier--and the old sink can be broken up with a hammer--just seriously joking---


Thanks for the humor. I love that old laundry tub. I can put big heavy items in it for washing and the tub is not a problem. 

I think I'll keep it ,
HRG


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

If it works,why not?

Watch you back--I hurt for days if I lift wrong--and lately I must be lifting everything wrong


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

shepard25 said:


> pretty heavy I guess. 80 pounds maybe





Homerepairguy said:


> In a previous post, I calculated the weight to be 134.8 lbs. After I disconnect the drain, I'll probably be able to tell if it's closer to 80 or 135 lbs.


I disconnected the drain. The tub is very heavy, closer to 135 lbs is my estimate.

HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Homerepairguy said:


> I've come up with an idea for moving the laundry tub that I'd like to run by you guys.
> 
> The tub's drain goes into a trap and then the pipe runs horizontally into the double wall. It's made out of black ABS.
> 
> ...


Did the job using an automotive floor jack. Changes in the procedure are:

- Did not cut the old stand. 


I jacked up the tub.
Put two pieces of 2x6 standing vertically on both sides to support the tub.
Lowered the tub on to the 2x6's with the jack still in place.
Put 1x4 wood braces diagonally from the tub to the floor to insure that the tub wouldn't sway and fall down. To prevent the top of the brace slipping against the tub, I clamped 3" x 3" x 3/4" blocks on the outside of the tub walls at the top.
Removed the floor jack and removed the stand.
Reinserted the jack, lifted off the 2x6 supports, and lowered the tub.
Rolled the tub out of the way using the floor jack's wheels.
Used two low stools about 8" high to support the tub on both sides.
Lowered the tub on to the stools.
Resting the tub on the stools will make it easy to insert the floor jack again when it's time to reinstall the tub. The tub appears to weigh about 135 lbs but I did not use a scale to weigh it.

BTW, the bottom of the left rear leg of the stand was rusted to the point where it collapsed about 1" during the procedure. So the stand is definitely a throw away item. Didn't cut the stand though because it was too hard to cut the right rear leg since there's a built-in cabinet to the right of the tub. Supporting the tub, removing the jack and then removing the stand was easier and safer.

QUESTION:
The top of the concrete floor of the tub where the drain is, is very rough due to small bits of the concrete missing. When I reinstall the drain, would it be better to use plumber's putty or aquarium silicone sealant?

Thanks,
HRG


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Silicone---


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## ChiTownPro (May 18, 2014)

TheEplumber said:


> Some of those old sinks are actually soap stone.
> Google says around 20 lb/sq ft.
> 
> My concern is the flimsy legs. Don't let them fold up on you!!


That's what I thought. Those things look amazing all cleaned up and oiled.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> Silicone---


Thanks for your help. I'll use silicone.

HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

The old steel bed frame that I saved does not have punched holes in it like I thought it did. It would be chore drilling all of the holes needed to assemble the frame with support braces.

Since I would have to buy punched angle iron from HomeDepot, I'm thinking about buying 1" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum angle bars to make the 4 legs and 2 top horizontal supports that go directly under the tub. Then use 1" x 1/8" aluminum flat bars for the horizontal and diagonal braces. All bolted together using 1/4" x 3/4" stainless steel hex head bolts.

The crucial weight bearing items are 2 legs with 1 horizontal top bar on both sides. IOW, need two of these to support the tub. Again, all of these 6 weight bearing items will be made out of 1" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum angle bars.

The stand will look like the one in my original post, posting it again here for your convenience. Note that although the horizontal tub supports cannot be seen, the stand that I removed has horizontal tub supports that the tub actually rests on, "on both sides". The front and back horizontals are about 1/2" below the bottom of the tub so they do not touch the tub.










The calculated weight of the tub is 134.5 lbs and I'm pretty sure it weighs about that much.

QUESTION:
You folks think that the aluminum angle bars can support the weight of the tub? I think so but wanted to run it by you for second opinions. (Note that the original stand's angle bars are 3/4" wide x 3/32" thick steel.)

Going to buy the materials tomorrow so I'll look for any opinions just before I leave the house.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Homerepairguy said:


> The calculated weight of the tub is 134.5 lbs and I'm pretty sure it weighs about that much.
> 
> QUESTION:
> You folks think that the aluminum angle bars can support the weight of the tub? I think so but wanted to run it by you for second opinions. (Note that the original stand's angle bars are 3/4" wide x 3/32" thick steel.)
> ...


Guess there aren't any structural engineers lurking :wink:.

Leaving now so will wing it when buying the materials for the stand.
HRG


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## Doc Sheldon (Nov 23, 2014)

Can't get to my books right now, but off the cuff, I think your design may be sparse. 1" wide x 1/8" angle may be marginally okay, would have to run the numbers, but even if it's okay for the static load, the risk of serious injury if one of those legs should crumple would push me to beef it up. 
If you intend to build it like your photo shows, then all your vertical load-bearing stresses are on the four legs... the horizontal side pieces appear to be only struts. I'd consider the whole thing marginal, at best, with 1x1x1/8 angle.
Regardless, your diagonal braces should really be angle, too. Flat provides only partial protection from buckling.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Doc Sheldon said:


> Can't get to my books right now, but off the cuff, I think your design may be sparse. 1" wide x 1/8" angle may be marginally okay, would have to run the numbers, but even if it's okay for the static load, the risk of serious injury if one of those legs should crumple would push me to beef it up.
> If you intend to build it like your photo shows, then all your vertical load-bearing stresses are on the four legs... the horizontal side pieces appear to be only struts. I'd consider the whole thing marginal, at best, with 1x1x1/8 angle.
> Regardless, your diagonal braces should really be angle, too. Flat provides only partial protection from buckling.


When you have time to get to your books, could you please calculate the size of aluminum angle to replace the original steel angle legs? For reference the original stand's angle bars (4 legs and 2 top horizontals) are 3/4" wide x 3/32" thick steel.

The original stand only has 2 diagonal braces on the front (as can be seen in the picture) and 2 matching diagonal braces on the back. Surprisingly there are NO diagonal braces on the left or right sides! It's mind boggling that the stand doesn't have diagonal braces on the sides to prevent the tub swaying toward the user. Of cource the tub cannot sway toward the water pipes since the tub is against the wall. 

In my installation, there is a sheet metal back splash attached to the back wall and the bottom of the sheet metal is bent to go over the back top edge of the tub to allow splashes to drip into the tub. That would prevent the tub swaying toward the user. But if someone did not do that like in an outdoor installation where water splashes are not a concern, it seems that the tub could sway toward the user using the original stand.

Also in my installation, there is sheet metal on the right side attached to the built-in cabinet, and the bottom of the sheet metal is bent over the right top edge of the tub. That would prevent the tub swaying to the left, although the washing machine is on the left of the tub anyway.

So the diagonal braces in my installation can be minimal since the tub is firmly attached to the back and right walls by the sheet metal back splashes. I definitely will put 1" wide diagonal braces on all 4 sides regardless.

I just need to confirm the load bearing capability of aluminum 1" x 1/8" x 17" angle bars used for the legs. I already bought the materials but could return them if necessary.

Thanks,
HRG


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