# Freezing Cold Walls



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Where are you located ?
Are the walls insulated ?


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Where are you located ?
> Are the walls insulated ?


Northern VA

No Idea


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Check for insulation in the wall by removing a receptacle cover plate and looking for it next to the box after turning off power to same. 

Be safe, Gary


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> Check for insulation in the wall by removing a receptacle cover plate and looking for it next to the box after turning off power to same.
> 
> Be safe, Gary


At this point I haven't looked yet but I am going to assume there is none. What would you suggest to fix this?


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

If there isn't any insulation then the choice is blowing in insulation into the wall (cutting holes)
Or removing the sheetrock & putting in fiberglass or some other insulation
Just make sure you have a stud wall & not all brick
IE just strapping on the brick & sheetrock attached to the strapping


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> If there isn't any insulation then the choice is blowing in insulation into the wall (cutting holes)
> Or removing the sheetrock & putting in fiberglass or some other insulation
> Just make sure you have a stud wall & not all brick
> IE just strapping on the brick & sheetrock attached to the strapping


How much would blowing in insulation cost? Is it something that a professional has to do or can somebody just above newbie experience do it?


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Blowing insulation can be a DIY effort
I've done a lot of things, but it's not something I would tackle
The machines can be rented at HD...purchase enough insulation & the rental is waived in some areas
If there is any cross blocking in the wall that will block the insulation
My house was built in the 50's & I have run into this in my walls - near corners

Some people have found that the price a Pro charges was not that much more then what it would cost them to do the same
The Pro machines I have been told are also more powerful - so better


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Before you run to the store, check underneath the walls in the basement or crawl space. See if air can travel up the wall cavity from below. (Balloon framed, large mechanical holes, etc.) Go into the attic and look for air holes from wires, pipes, etc. Notice if there is drywall or plywood (should be) on the neighbor's walls and rafters/trusses. Is there any insulation above, and what kind? Is it a two story? Is there a ridge vent or soffit vents?

Be safe, Gary


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> Before you run to the store, check underneath the walls in the basement or crawl space. See if air can travel up the wall cavity from below. (Balloon framed, large mechanical holes, etc.) Go into the attic and look for air holes from wires, pipes, etc. Notice if there is drywall or plywood (should be) on the neighbor's walls and rafters/trusses. Is there any insulation above, and what kind? Is it a two story? Is there a ridge vent or soffit vents?
> 
> Be safe, Gary


No attic and I don't think I can actually get underneath the house, I'll have to check this out. It's a two story.


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## moneymgmt (Apr 30, 2007)

My vote is uninsulated walls, ditto for my house. First floor has no insulation in the walls but I insulated the heck out of the second story when I remodeled it. Quote to blow in the first floor walls were $1200-1500 on 800sf floor plan. If you DIY don't forget to take off two strips of siding... one at top of wall and one just below window sill height. I'm holding off this winter bc we have alum. siding which is very difficult to take off and reattach without damaging or bending it. I want to re-side with vinyl but have to wait for the temps to come back up. Far easier to blow in insulation while there's no siding on the house!

On a furnace note, do you have enough ducts to push out adequate amounts of warm air? Can you add more? Is the furnace sized properly? Are your return-air registers free and clear and getting enough air to the furnace? Those are all things on the furnace end you can work on.


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

moneymgmt said:


> My vote is uninsulated walls, ditto for my house. First floor has no insulation in the walls but I insulated the heck out of the second story when I remodeled it. Quote to blow in the first floor walls were $1200-1500 on 800sf floor plan. If you DIY don't forget to take off two strips of siding... one at top of wall and one just below window sill height. I'm holding off this winter bc we have alum. siding which is very difficult to take off and reattach without damaging or bending it. I want to re-side with vinyl but have to wait for the temps to come back up. Far easier to blow in insulation while there's no siding on the house!
> 
> On a furnace note, do you have enough ducts to push out adequate amounts of warm air? Can you add more? Is the furnace sized properly? Are your return-air registers free and clear and getting enough air to the furnace? Those are all things on the furnace end you can work on.


I have a heat bump and it blows plenty of warm/hot air. I don't think $1200-1500 would be cost effective in my case. It's and investment property and I don't think it would save me more than $15 between December and March and $10 rest of the year. Currently only paying $100 is electric during high periods to begin with.


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