# removing ceiling to expose the rafters



## shazapple (Jun 30, 2011)

I doubt the rafters will look very nice, unless it is a very very old building and you are into that kind of thing.


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## Minich (Jul 14, 2011)

We took down the plaster ceiling in our kitchen (because we had to) and, upon seeing the result, decided to leave it open. It is a well-built higher-end 1921 American Foursquare, and the beams are 2x10 hardwood. It looks nice. HOWEVER: Be aware that we have a 2nd floor, so insulation wasn't an issue (for temperature), and the sound transmission between the kitchen and the bedroom above it is very, very clear. We elected to take the trade-off, but not everyone would.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Cost more to heat.
Far harder and a lot more money to insulate and still have air flow to protect the shingles.
Not a geat look.
Still going to have to leave the rafters in place to keep the roof from spreading and or sagging.
What's wrong with the ceiling that's there now?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Welcome to the forums!

Keep in mind your local building fire codes: 
*R302.11 Fireblocking.* In combustible construction, fireblocking shall be provided to cut off all concealed draft openings (both vertical and horizontal) and to form an effective fire barrier between stories, and between a top _story_ and the roof space. 

Fireblocking shall be provided in wood-frame construction in the following locations: 
1. In concealed spaces of stud walls and partitions, including furred spaces and parallel rows of studs or staggered studs, as follows:
1.1. *Vertically at the ceiling and floor levels*.
1.2. Horizontally at intervals not exceeding 10 feet (3048 mm).
2. At all interconnections between concealed vertical and horizontal spaces such as occur at soffits, drop ceilings and cove ceilings.
3. In concealed spaces between stair stringers at the top and bottom of the run. Enclosed spaces under stairs shall comply with Section R302.7. From: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec002_par031.htm

Log homes do not have the same requirements as light frame construction on fire-codes. It takes much longer to burn through a log than a milled (dressed) joist. 

You need to cover all framing, other than beams below the floor joists, with drywall for minimum fire safety. “At ceiling and floor levels” --- not ceiling OR floor…. Be sure to get a permit for safety and the “paper trail” your H.O. Insurance carrier may need in case of a claim. Real bummer, if the house burnt down and you “thought” you were full coverage.
You would need to leave the rafter ties, as per code, and protect them with drywall- unless beams.

Minich, I’d check with your local AHJ to be safe

Gary


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## Minich (Jul 14, 2011)

Gary, I've spent several hours researching what you said. It seems to me that lumber qualifies as a fireblock, under the definitions set out in the code. It says a fireblock, not a "non combustible" material for fireblock (language which is used elsewhere in the same section). I ran into several discussions that seem to back this up. I'm willing to say I could be wrong, but at the moment I'm convinced otherwise. Fireblock seems to be defined as something that prevents the free passage of flame.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Sorry, I mixed answers. (old age) You are correct, see Post #11, here: http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/basement-finishing-youre-thoughts-repeat-topic-112360/

Gary


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