# Newly painted drywall seams cracking



## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Imo, not really normal.

Imo, either too much mud was used or not applied correctly. Maybe mud was still damp and not dry when you applied primer and paint. 

Did you ask contractor if it was ready for priming/painting? 

Stop painting/priming and have the drywall contractor come back out and look at it. See what he says. Just a suggestion.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

jmon said:


> Imo, not really normal.
> 
> Imo, either too much mud was used or not applied correctly. Maybe mud was still damp and not dry when you applied primer and paint.
> 
> ...


IMO, there were some large gaps between the wall and the laminate ceiling. Everything was ready to prime/paint as it sat for over a week and half.


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## RRH (Nov 24, 2016)

Mysp said:


> IMO, there were some large gaps between the wall and the laminate ceiling. Everything was ready to prime/paint as it sat for over a week and half.


If it sat that long then the problem is with a poor drywall job. Maybe he did not even tape where the ceiling and wall meet. Did he use enough screws on that edge?

Needs to be done right. Or add some screws and crown molding

But it is the drywall job.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

The least invasive fix would be to caulk the crack but I agree with having the contractor come back and see what he says. Did he do any work on the walls or was it strictly ceiling?


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

2 layers of drywall is a lot of weight on your ceiling framing. You probably should have scraped and skim coated the first layer of drywall.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

RRH said:


> If it sat that long then the problem is with a poor drywall job. Maybe he did not even tape where the ceiling and wall meet. Did he use enough screws on that edge?
> 
> Needs to be done right. Or add some screws and crown molding
> 
> But it is the drywall job.


The drywall contractor has good reviews and been very responsive. There were plenty of screws throughout the laminate before they started to tape and mud. All of the joints/gaps were filled, then taped, then mudding/sanded. I can confirm that. 

They had delivered along with the sheetrock:

Durabond
Construction Adhesive
Tape
ProForm Lite Blue Premixed Lightweight Drywall Joint Compound

The contractor lead and person that did the mudding/sanding came over. They noted it was paint cracking and caulk should do the fix before putting on the final layer of paint.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

mark sr said:


> The least invasive fix would be to caulk the crack but I agree with having the contractor come back and see what he says. Did he do any work on the walls or was it strictly ceiling?


They contractor lead and person that did the mudding/finishing came over. I got their opinion separately. They both said it was paint cracking and not the actual mud/drywall. They provided your recommendation of going through and applying caulk. 

They also did patch and touch-up work on the existing walls. Those turned out good.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Was the drywall hung parallel or perpendicular to the joists?


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

BIG Johnson said:


> 2 layers of drywall is a lot of weight on your ceiling framing. You probably should have scraped and skim coated the first layer of drywall.


We had ~8 drywall contractors come out to quote us on the ceiling. I would say 6/8 recommended hanging 1/2" sheet rock. It was almost impossible to scrape the texture off the ceiling due to how heavily textured it was and the layers of paint over the years. I attached two photos of the original ceiling.


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Glad you got it all worked out with your contractor mysp. Sounds like a very reputable company you hired. 

Imo, it's always best to get the contractor back out there for advice. It's hard looking at pictures and trying to figure out what the real issue is over the internet.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> Was the drywall hung parallel or perpendicular to the joists?


I will get you an answer tonight. I do not have all my pictures on me.

Living room (19'x15') - Perpendicular 

Bedroom 1 (10'x9') - Parallel (room with some cracking)

Bedroom 2 (13'x10') – TBD

Bedroom 3 (20'x11') - TBD


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

jmon said:


> Glad you got it all worked out with your contractor mysp. Sounds like a very reputable company you hired.
> 
> Imo, it's always best to get the contractor back out there for advice. It's hard looking at pictures and trying to figure out what the real issue is over the internet.


I want to ensure things are done right as this is a big investment for us. They have been back to fix a couple of areas that have came up over the past couple of weeks. I will give the caulk option a try and see how it goes.

I am also wondering if this might be some expected moving of the framework, as the temp was in the 50s this weekend when we primed/painted and then dropped quickly down into the 20-30s Mon-Wednesday.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> The contractor lead and person that did the mudding/sanding came over. They noted it was paint cracking and caulk should do the fix before putting on the final layer of paint.


I find it hard to believe that is a crack in the paint film. It looks too deep .... but I agree that a little caulking will fix it.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

mark sr said:


> I find it hard to believe that is a crack in the paint film. It looks too deep .... but I agree that a little caulking will fix it.


That entire area was filled, taped, and mudded. I do not think the track runs into the tape/mud. But I could be wrong. 

I think my course of action is to caulk, add the final layer of paint and let it sit for the next two weeks while I focus on the other areas of the house. If that room shows more cracks then I will call the contractor back. 

The thing is. The master bedroom (upstairs) and the living room (1st floor) did not show this cracking. I am hoping this is just an isolated incident with the paint.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

That is not the paint cracking. It is indeed the dried joint compound. When I see cracks like that, I always suspect that there wasn't enough heat in the area for the joint compound to dry properly. Just one man's opinion though. Of course, I wouldn't rule out that it's the paint as it sounds like a cheap builder's flat was used.......


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Mysp said:


> That entire area was filled, taped, and mudded. I do not think the track runs into the tape/mud. But I could be wrong.
> 
> I think my course of action is to caulk, add the final layer of paint and let it sit for the next two weeks while I focus on the other areas of the house. If that room shows more cracks then I will call the contractor back.
> 
> The thing is. The master bedroom (upstairs) and the living room (1st floor) did not show this cracking. I am hoping this is just an isolated incident with the paint.



Make sure you use a high quality caulk. No $1.99 Alex shlt.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Gymschu said:


> That is not the paint cracking. It is indeed the dried joint compound. When I see cracks like that, I always suspect that there wasn't enough heat in the area for the joint compound to dry properly. Just one man's opinion though. Of course, I wouldn't rule out that it's the paint as it sounds like a cheap builder's flat was used.......


Should have used PM200:biggrin2:


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Gymschu said:


> That is not the paint cracking. It is indeed the dried joint compound. When I see cracks like that, I always suspect that there wasn't enough heat in the area for the joint compound to dry properly. Just one man's opinion though. Of course, I wouldn't rule out that it's the paint as it sounds like a cheap builder's flat was used.......


I had the heat set in the 70s for the week and half before we started painting. Was there enough of time for the joint compound to dry? I would think. 

We went with SW as their store is a mile away. There is not a Benjamin Moore in close distance. So no 10$ paint/primer for the big boxes.


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## woodco (Jun 11, 2017)

Mysp said:


> I had the heat set in the 70s for the week and half before we started painting. Was there enough of time for the joint compound to dry? I would think.
> 
> We went with SW as their store is a mile away. There is not a Benjamin Moore in close distance. So no 10$ paint/primer for the big boxes.


What KIND of SW paint though?


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Some of SWP's bottom line paint is every bit as bad as what the typical big box offers.
The only times I've seen fresh latex paint crack is when it is applied too thick for the drying conditions, applied over fresh caulking or froze on the wall. Your crack doesn't look like any of those.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

mark sr said:


> Some of SWP's bottom line paint is every bit as bad as what the typical big box offers.
> The only times I've seen fresh latex paint crack is when it is applied too thick for the drying conditions, applied over fresh caulking or froze on the wall. Your crack doesn't look like any of those.


Or applied over mud dust. It doesn’t look like that either though.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

woodco said:


> What KIND of SW paint though?


Ceiling: Eminence High Performance Ceiling Paint

Walls: Cashmere Interior Acrylic Latex (have not started or purchased)

Please let me know if you have other recommendations.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

mark sr said:


> Some of SWP's bottom line paint is every bit as bad as what the typical big box offers.
> The only times I've seen fresh latex paint crack is when it is applied too thick for the drying conditions, applied over fresh caulking or froze on the wall. Your crack doesn't look like any of those.



There was no caulk and the temp was in the 70s. It is possible the paint was put on too thick, but I did not apply it.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

BIG Johnson said:


> Or applied over mud dust. It doesn’t look like that either though.


No mud dust. We thoroughly cleaned the walls before applying. This is only happening in the seams between the wall and ceiling. None of the other joints have this issue. Also not every room has this issue either.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Mysp, what happened to the answer to my question about was the drywall hung parallel or perpendicular to the joists?


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> Mysp, what happened to the answer to my question about was the drywall hung parallel or perpendicular to the joists?


Apologies Guap0 for the delay. It was on my list.

Living room (19'x15') - Perpendicular 

Bedroom 1 (10'x9') - Parallel (room with some cracking)

Bedroom 2 (13'x10') – Parallel (room with some cracking)

Bedroom 3 (20'x11') - Perpendicular


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

So the parallel rooms are where the cracks are. That's what I suspected. I would shoot more screws into the joists & patch the cracks.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> So the parallel rooms are where the cracks are. That's what I suspected. I would shoot more screws into the joists & patch the cracks.


Thanks for the input. I caulked the cracks last night. I am planning to go over to the house tonight to see what they look like. I will reinforce with more screws. I will most likely cut one of the rooms that is an issue to see if the issue comes up again this weekend before we put the last coat on the ceiling.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

What screws do you plan to use?


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> What screws do you plan to use?



I talked with the contractor. He ensures there was enough drywall screws.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Gymschu said:


> That is not the paint cracking. It is indeed the dried joint compound. When I see cracks like that, I always suspect that there wasn't enough heat in the area for the joint compound to dry properly. Just one man's opinion though. Of course, I wouldn't rule out that it's the paint as it sounds like a cheap builder's flat was used.......


So. I think your assumption, along with multiple others is correct. We followed through with the contractor's recommendation of caulking and painting. Well post caulk/paint, the paint cracked. 

I decided to check if there were any rooms where the wall was not primed. I found some hairline cracks in the bathroom.

I am open to suggestions on next steps. 

Attachments:
- Bathroom with non-paint and non-prime
- Primed, painted, then caulked, and put one coat of paint on caulk. Caulk/paint cracked.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Whenever I run into this I usually just caulk it and go on. Caulking is quick, easy and effective.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

> I talked with the contractor. He ensures there was enough drywall screws.


Did you ask him about the drywall being hung parallel to the joists?


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Mysp said:


> So. I think your assumption, along with multiple others is correct. We followed through with the contractor's recommendation of caulking and painting. Well post caulk/paint, the paint cracked.
> 
> I decided to check if there were any rooms where the wall was not primed. I found some hairline cracks in the bathroom.
> 
> ...


What kind of caulk did you use?


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

BIG Johnson said:


> What kind of caulk did you use?


DAP 230 was applied.

I picked up some Big Stretch but did not use that.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

mark sr said:


> Whenever I run into this I usually just caulk it and go on. Caulking is quick, easy and effective.



That second picture is the caulk and paint. The caulk/paint is cracked.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> Did you ask him about the drywall being hung parallel to the joists?


No but I will ask today.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Mysp said:


> DAP 230 was applied.
> 
> I picked up some Big Stretch but did not use that.


How long did you let it dry? Did you use a really wet rag to clean behind it? 

You should apply it with the tiniest of holes on the spout and push it in really good so as not to need to wipe any excess away with a wet rag. Technique is as important as the product.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Mysp said:


> That second picture is the caulk and paint. The caulk/paint is cracked.


That bottom pic is typical of paint applied over caulking before it's had time to cure.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Is the painter doing all of this work? Or the GC's employees? I'd be concerned if it's not someone with painting experience doing this repair work. For cracks like those, I usually use MAXFLEX from SW. Big Stretch is comparable. DAP and some of the other cheaper caulks just don't have enough flexibility to move with the framing, the drywall, or whatever movement is causing the problem. When caulking the cracks, you need to let them dry for a day, maybe two so that they are hard enough (Skinned over) to accept paint. Seems to me they are rushing these repairs along and that's part of the problem.


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

BIG Johnson said:


> How long did you let it dry? Did you use a really wet rag to clean behind it?
> 
> You should apply it with the tiniest of holes on the spout and push it in really good so as not to need to wipe any excess away with a wet rag. Technique is as important as the product.


Cleaned the area. Let it dry for about >24 hours before painting. 

What is the best way to remediate the issue?


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## Mysp (Mar 11, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> Did you ask him about the drywall being hung parallel to the joists?


Update: I did not get a chance to talk with the contractor today.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Mysp said:


> Cleaned the area. Let it dry for about >24 hours before painting.
> 
> What is the best way to remediate the issue?


I would think the Dynaflex would be high enough quality. Reapply it carefully and let it dry for a few days before painting over. 

SW Maxflex is cheaper so you’re welcome to pick a tube of that up and try it as well. I’ve used both.


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