# bathroom renovation



## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

I am rnovating my bathroom and the new bathtum is a 1/2" smaller the the opening how do I put up my drywall when it has to go ove the flange of the tub. I am new to this and I have gutted the bathroom right down to the studs:confused1::confused1: I dont know what to do....


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

Double up.


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

Can you describe the situation a bit more? Is this a tub/shower combo or just a tub? Do you plan on tiling the wall? Anyway to get a drawing of the layout?


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

*bathroom reno*



747 said:


> Double up.


do I do that on just one wall??????????


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

*bathroom reno*

I can send pictures if I knew how lol. It is a tub with a tub suround.....


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

sassycreek said:


> I can send pictures if I knew how lol. It is a tub with a tub suround.....


Well then I have some concerns with your plans as described. 

To add pics, look down under the reply window where you type (just under the "Submit Reply" button) you'll see the Additional Options section. In there you'll see the "Manage Attachments" button. Click that and then you can upload your pictures.


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

*bathroom reno*

angus242 would u like to come to Canada and redo my kitchen and bathroom your pictures are very nice I dont think I could do that good of a job. LOL:thumbsup:


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

Thanks!
However, I think the travel expenses would break the budget. :scooter:

If you can uploads pics that would be helpful.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Furr out each wall 1/4" To accomodate the difference. HD carries pre-cut 1/4" wood strips. 

FWIW: Tub and shower openings are generally over-framed by 1/4", or 1/8" on each side, to avoid fitment issues with the tub itself.


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

angus242 said:


> Thanks!
> However, I think the travel expenses would break the budget. :scooter:
> 
> If you can uploads pics that would be helpful.


 
If u look in my album I did upload some pictures......


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

*AtlanticWBConst.*

What do u mean Furr out each wall 1/4" To accomodate the difference. HD carries pre-cut 1/4" wood strips. 
I am new to this and dont know the lingo. And I am a girl. LOL:laughing:


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

angus242 said:


> Thanks!
> However, I think the travel expenses would break the budget. :scooter:
> 
> If you can uploads pics that would be helpful.


Dont u need a holiday to Canada. Saskatchewan is very nice in the summer.....:thumbup:


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

OK, here's what I recommend:

#1. If you fir out the studs to accommodate the gap, you'll have to do all of the walls on both sides of the bath. If you fir just the walls inside the tub surround, you'll have an uneven surface between the tub and the rest of the room.
#2. If you plan on tiling the walls in the surround, you need to use cement backer board, not drywall. The material should be 1/2" thick.
#3. Here's what I propose that will allow you to keep the walls as is without firring out everything:
You say the gap is 1/2" total so you center the tub leaving 1/4" gap on both sides of the tub. You shim between the tub flange and the studs. Your wall material is 1/2" thick so you need to notch the bottom of the backer board just above the tub flange. This picture is not to scale but just to give you a visual of what I'm suggesting.

Does this make sense? Also, you never mentioned what the tub surround material is supposed to be? Fiberglass surround? Tile?


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## sassycreek (Jul 13, 2008)

the tub suround is a 3 pc. fiberglass and that does make sense I think that will work I am going to try it. THANK U
Kirstine


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Furr out each wall 1/4" To accomodate the difference. HD carries pre-cut 1/4" wood strips.
> 
> FWIW: Tub and shower openings are generally over-framed by 1/4", or 1/8" on each side, to avoid fitment issues with the tub itself.


I didn't know they made those. Thats the ticket.:yes: Bascially what he is saying is this. On the front of the studs your going to attach those furing strips there by bring the studs out 1/4inch. Your then going to attach the drywall to the studs and your problem should be solved. I was original going to say you could shim those studs out. But i thought you would be in over your head. But seeing how they make them precut all you have to do is cut to lenth and install.


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## javan (Jun 9, 2008)

*Another option*

Not the greatest, but I have done it with floors, is to sister the existing studs with new studs, that are installed plub, such that they protrude past the original studs, into the tub area, such that the drywall would be in the correct position. This would be if your current studs are not plumb and would alleviate having to shim with different thicknesses.


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## mjdonovan (Mar 15, 2007)

Use two layers of 1/2" drywall to make up the difference.


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## cooper4x4 (Jul 10, 2008)

angus242 said:


> OK, here's what I recommend:
> 
> #1. If you fir out the studs to accommodate the gap, you'll have to do all of the walls on both sides of the bath. If you fir just the walls inside the tub surround, you'll have an uneven surface between the tub and the rest of the room.
> #2. If you plan on tiling the walls in the surround, you need to use cement backer board, not drywall. The material should be 1/2" thick.
> ...


Angus, I have a similar problem in that my tub flange does not touch the wall studs. How should I go about notching the backerboard? Also, how would I install and secure the shim you are referring to in your pic if the tub is already installed? I have a cast iron tub.


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

cooper4x4 said:


> Angus, I have a similar problem in that my tub flange does not touch the wall studs. How should I go about notching the backerboard? Also, how would I install and secure the shim you are referring to in your pic if the tub is already installed? I have a cast iron tub.


If the tub is already installed, you don't need to shim. The original problem was a tub was being installed and the wall spacing was larger than the tub. That's what the shims would be for.
As for notching, what kind of backer are you using? What do you plan on doing as a wall covering?


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## cooper4x4 (Jul 10, 2008)

angus242 said:


> If the tub is already installed, you don't need to shim. The original problem was a tub was being installed and the wall spacing was larger than the tub. That's what the shims would be for.
> As for notching, what kind of backer are you using? What do you plan on doing as a wall covering?


I'll be using cement backer board with tile as a wall covering with a coat of redguard in between.


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

cooper4x4 said:


> I'll be using cement backer board with tile as a wall covering with a coat of redguard in between.


Depending on what brand CBU you are using (I like Hardi), you can just use a utility knife to make the notch. Perfection is not needed for this. You're just making the CBU fits properly to the flange.

When using RedGard, it is critical that you get 100% coverage over the CBU. Pay close attention to your corners. You may need a few coats and watch out for any bubbles or pinholes. 

Good luck!


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## cooper4x4 (Jul 10, 2008)

I am using Hardi for the backer board. How far down the flange does the backerboard need to go? the flange is only about an inch tall


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

1/8" gap filled with 100% silicone.


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