# Upper control arn replacement 2000 Navigator



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I suspected that you were just beginning, when you said that the lower ball joints were bad, experience has it's perks.

I took the wait and see approach, now I ask you to check every other steering component also, because where one is as bad as you have shown, the rest are right behind them in wear. 

Also any suspension that is present needs inspection. 


Note to myself: Never buy a vehicle that has spent life in Long Island.

I already have a list of other places, like anywhere around the Great Lakes, Louisiana, and such.

Due to the "RUST BUCKET" affect. 

Do keep us informed on this, we are curious.


ED


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I live in Louisiana and the only rust here is if your on the coast or in a chemical plant. We don't use salt on the roads in southern Louisiana. I use to live in Illinois and they use salt on the roads there. That's what rusts out vehicles unless you live on the coast. OK. PB Blaster is your friend here. The ball joint is prolly rusted in there. Be careful not to mushroom the top But I got a big sledge hammer to move it then I press it out. Sometimes I gotta grind the "mushroom" off so the ball joint so it will press out. Those are fun. But once the ball joint is out, is easy sailing from there. Mark the upper bolt eccentric washers so you can put them in the same spot. Your alignment man will love ya for doing that and also if won't hurt the tires as bad getting there. :vs_cool:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

The mushrooming was from me being dumb and using a receiving cup that was too small.* OEM B joint had a wider diameter than the replacement, even though the replacement was Motorcraft.* Sure gave the ball joint press a good stress test though.* It came through with flying colors.* Threads are unmarked, the C clamp straight, apparently unaffected from the excess force put on it from a 24 inch breaker bar on a 4 foot piece of pipe.

Pressure was so great, there was an indention on the B joint about a 1/32 of an inch deep and the size of a nickel.

Once I put the bigger cup on, the impact wrench forced the B joint out in no time. 

I have heard that the UCA on the Navigator is non-adjustable.* I have also heard it has an oblong hole for moving the bolt back and forth while adjusting alignment.* I have also seen (on rockauto) an eccentric cam for adjusting alignment with the UCA bolt.* Whatever the case, I have a paint pen marker and will mark the relationship of the bolt with the frame and try and put it all back the same way, then get it aligned.* I hope to get all this done by next weekend.* I will take the UCA on the driver’s side out sometime this week, after work.* Raining today, though. Put the new one in, when I get it, put the steering knuckle back on and the driver’s side will be done.* Then, flip the car on the street so the passenger side is inward, and I will do that side.* Shouldn’t take as long, given what I learned on the driver’s side.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I got home and scraped the crud off the frame of the UCA and found these index marks. How do i use them to mark the new UCA when I install it?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I have both paper white out and a white paint pen. Just mark the washer to the frame. Just draw a line from the washer straight out to the frame. I generally draw 3 separate lines in case a line gets wiped off during disassembly/assembly. I also do this on timing chains and gears if I'm reinstalling them.:vs_cool:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Brainbucket said:


> I have both paper white out and a white paint pen. Just mark the washer to the frame. Just draw a line from the washer straight out to the frame. I generally draw 3 separate lines in case a line gets wiped off during disassembly/assembly. I also do this on timing chains and gears if I'm reinstalling them.:vs_cool:


I assume that cruddy rusted thing to the left of the bolt is the adjustment device/cam? That whole thing is probably rusted so bad it won't move a bit!

The rear bolt is obstructed by the air shock, of course. From what I have read, you just loosen the top bolt on the shock an inch or two, then pry down on it to lower it enough to get the bolt out.

Both bolts freed up easily though.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Well, this could have gone better.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Update: got the UCAs from Amazon. Got it on, after a struggle, and even got the steering knuckle back on. What an ordeal. I am not very strong, and moving that heavy knuckle was almost more than I could do. I used my jacks to help hold the weight while i attached it, got the upper and lower B joint and CV axle all on and was feeling pretty good until I looked down and saw the lower B joint boot had fallen off and was laying on the ground. By then the light was gone and I am faced with taking the lower B joint loose, AGAIN, to put the boot on. Note: buy a B joint with an integrated boot. 

Tomorrow I am going to take off, because I have to get this thing moving. Cops came by because the neighbors complained about me white trashing up the neighborhood with my truck on jackstands and the wheel well a gaping hole all week. I told the officer it would be taken care of ASAP. 

He was cool. I just have to get this done. The truck has to at least move tomorrow.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

If you know which neighbor called, wait a few weeks and complain about their " Christmas" decorations looking like they opened an Italian Cat house. 

ED


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

i think I will put spider webs, creepy ghosts and stuff on it with a sign: Kids beware! This is an ADULT nightmare!


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I took off work at noon, worked on it until seven. Got it going and it seems after a test drive that I got the repair right. It drives like a new car. Dead quiet even on the interstate at 70. No pull at all in the steering. I am suspicious, but, damn, what a difference! Absolutely no squeaks or creaking noises.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Great, but still have it checked by a good alignment shop. 

No sense in wasting those expensive 16 inch tires, I had to buy a set (4) in 2016, and paid $1200.00 , after the mounting, taxes and balancing was done. 


Congratulate yourself on saving all the labor charges for these repairs.


ED


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Good to hear.

And thanks for bringing us along.

OMG!

At 1:20 in about the misses. I couldn't help but laugh, it also brought back some memories.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

On-line UCA didn't fit, until I MADE it fit.


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