# typical rental costs for hole saw



## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

here is a site that has a 4 1/4" bit for $67 (sales price, not rental). The 4" is out of stock but costs $56.

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/ProductList.aspx?GroupID=15412&TYPE=GOOG


Do you need the hole to be pretty? If not, multiple holes by a small drill bit and a hammer will get you a hole, just not as pretty as the core bit.


this place charges $40/day for rental

http://www.a-zrental.com/equipment.asp?action=category&category=43

this place charges $15/day

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/ProductList.aspx?GroupID=15412&TYPE=GOOG

I would guess it is going to depend on what you have available close to you when dealing with rental. If buying, you have the world to choose from.

what are you using to power the thing? Any I have used have a large internally threaded boss that screws onto a threaded shaft on the drill.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I used a friends compressor, air gun & chisel bit
I drilled the outline from both sides w/masonary bit 1st


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Red, If you have a hammer drill but not an SDS rotary hammer then I would definitely go with the chipping technique. I have a Bosch SDS Rotary Hammer but every time I needed to drill a large hole I used a local coring service. They would come out for a single hole.
http://www.intracut.com/

The concrete cutting business like all construction is really slow now so you may get a small operator to come out for around a $100, that is if appearance is that important.

I would first drill a small hole from the block side into where the center of a block cell is, to verify that it is not filled with concrete which also may include #4 or bigger rebar.

Let us know what happens.
.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Last 4" diamond coring bit I bought was over $400--The prices at that site are cheap---I just wonder about the quality--


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

PaliBob said:


> Red, If you have a hammer drill but not an SDS rotary hammer then I would definitely go with the chipping technique. I have a Bosch SDS Rotary Hammer but every time I needed to drill a large hole I used a local coring service. They would come out for a single hole.
> http://www.intracut.com/
> 
> The concrete cutting business like all construction is really slow now so you may get a small operator to come out for around a $100, that is if appearance is that important.
> ...


Hmm I could maybe do that. I suppose I could buy myself a masonry bit set, could be good for various projects. I do have a hammer drill.

The blocks arn't filled unless that particular spot is for some reason but I doubt it. There are various areas where there are nail holes and I can put a coat hanger right through. I want the hole to look decently nice but does not have to be perfect. Just don't want it all crooked and bigger then 4 inches. The vent should be able to cover the hole without it looking bad.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

PaliBob said:


> I would first drill a small hole from the block side into where the center of a block cell is, to verify that it is not filled with concrete which also may include #4 or bigger rebar..


Yea, if you rent and hit rebar, you'll damage and potentially ruin the bit, which will result in additional charges and loss of your deposit. some places charge for wear, in addition to standard rental fees.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Mr Chips said:


> Yea, if you rent and hit rebar, you'll damage and potentially ruin the bit, which will result in additional charges and loss of your deposit. some places charge for wear, in addition to standard rental fees.


use a wet core bit. They are designed to cut rebar as well as the block/brick.


btw: you can destroy a dry core bit by running it too fast as well. No return of deposit with that either I would suspect.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

if it's hollow block just hammer and chisel it, use a smaller bladed chisel or even a bull point.

make a hole in the center with the biggest bit you own, then mark the edges, score and chisel it out.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Red, For your hammer drill I would get a set of long SDS bits. They will work in a conventional drill chuck, just not as fast. The first hole through the block & brick should be as straight and level as possible.

I would start from the block side of the wall and try to get the first 1/2" center hole to align with the middle of a web opening in the block. Mark the perimeter with a magic marker using the 4" tubing as a template. If this is for a 4" Dryer vent that will exit on the brick side of the wall then you can use the vent hood to mark with heavy duty tape the maximum outside opening.

You can buy a single block or two to practice on so that you don't scar your bricks beyond the vent hood.

You can get a set of five 16" long SDS bits for $20 from HF or get by with a single 1/2" masonry bit that is at least 12" long. By making a series of holes around the inside of the 4" perimeter and chipping out the remainder with a long 1" cold chisel you should be good to go.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-16-inch-sds-masonry-bit-set-46755.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-cold-chisel-and-punch-set-66440.html

And finally a 3 lb hammer, if you don't have one, works much better than any carpenters hammer.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-sledge-hammer-6748.html
.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

About 55/day to rent, so I might look at just doing as suggested and just drill lot of small holes, and chizel away. They close at 5 so I can't bring it back the day I pick it out, so in reality it would cost me 110 bucks. If I end up stuck late at work, then add another 55 bucks... so it could be expensive. 

I'm even wondering if I should just hire this out. What kind of tradesperson would do this, a masonry worker perhaps?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Red Squirrel said:


> I'm even wondering if I should just hire this out. What kind of tradesperson would do this, a masonry worker perhaps?


If you fly me up there and buy dinner, I'll do it for free.

It really isn't that difficult. The multiple small holes (as close as you can get) allows you to simply whack the center with a hammer to break free the remaining connections. Just don't hit so hard as to move the entire brick or block rather than breaking the connections.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

nap said:


> If you fly me up there and buy dinner, I'll do it for free.


Heck, I'll pay my own airfare if you pick-up the bar tab...

it's an easy job, don't sweat it


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Oh I'm sure it's easy, but just debating if it's worth buying the tools required to do it. Guess I may need to do this again in the future, so may as well bite the bullet now.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Red, Here is a Canadian source for masonry bits that will fit your Hammer Drill. You don't have to buy or rent a rotary hammer. You can get by with one or two (nice to have an extra) of the 3/8' x 12 Masonry drill bits.

http://leak-proof.com/catalog/grouting-drill-bits-fluted-masonry-bits-c-352_30_34.html

You will also need a long shank cold chisel but since these are not too common you could use a small 1/4" x 12" star drill or even a long punch to break out the concrete webbing after you've drilled around it.
http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/25-96-star-drills.aspx

By getting a concrete block to practice on you will also be better equipped to judge where is the center of an open cell on your wall.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

PaliBob said:


> You will also need a long shank cold chisel but since these are not too common .


probably more common than you think. Depot and Lowes both carry 12" cold chisels as well as a 12" flat utility chisel


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

If RS has a SDS rotary hammer drill that is convertible to just hammer, he could also get an SDS chisel bit for it. That way, no mashed fingers (my specialty)


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## fabrk8r (Feb 12, 2010)

Red, if you happen to know anyone in the plumbing trade they would have access to a core drill and diamond bit...I took one home from work a few months ago to drill a 6" diamater hole through my basement wall. It took 15 minutes to set up the drill and hose...3 minutes to drill the 6" hole through the center web of a split-faced 8X8X16 cinder block.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

One thing to do no matter what method you us is to drill a exploritory hole where you suspect to core of the block to be. Then put a bend on a wire and rotate it to probe and see if you have 2" or more on all sides of the exploratory hole. If you are off and hit a block cross web that means you will have to remove that too. You should be able to shift the center slightly so the original hole is within the area to be removed.

Even if you buy a block for practice there is no guarantee that block has the same configuration as what is actually in the wall. You could be practicing on a 2 core block when you might have 3 core block in the wall or a one core open end unit they have different core locations and sizes. There is no standard core arrangement of block since it is a local situation and compounded by the use of traditional older mold configurations since a small block producer is reluctant to buy a new $10,000 mold for one size block and have some obsolete inventory or add another shape to the product line.

Dick


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Ok ended up buying a big masonry bit, big hammer, and cold chisel. I'll probably tackle this on the weekend if it's not raining.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Good luck!
.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I started, taking a break now. I really should have bought ear protection I'm in a corner and it's very hard on the ears! Unfortunatly I hit a web in the block so I'll have to take that out. Not much choice where my hole goes as a wall is on one side and the electrical cut off and feed is on the other. The hammer and chisel works great though. So far I did not smash my fingers. Never realized but if I had a 1 inch hammer drill I could put the chisel in it.

Once I drill a hole right through then I'll finish the work from outside. Wont be as hard on the ears and it will be in an easier to work environment. 

What is the best way to seal the cracks after I insert the pipe? I was thinking cement, but most of it is just going to drip down. Will "no more nails" or other caulking work?


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Hydraulic cement


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I'll go buy some tomorrow then. What is the consistency of this stuff, is it very liquidy or is it more like drywall? I'm wondering if I need to setup some kind of cardboard form or if I can just apply it directly.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Red, Hydraulic Cement expands as it dries to seal cracks. It dries very very fast, so just mix a small amount of the powder with water in a throw away container to experiment with before you start. 

Almost any hardware store wall have Hydraulic cement.
Here is one from DAP:
http://www.qualitydist.net/dap-14086.html
.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Yep managed to find some. Fixed up the hole, and also added caulk around outside to be on the extra safe side. Was tricky to work with due to it's fast curing. The trick was to just mud it on and keep shaping it so it does not drip and then it started getting more like putty then next thing you know was hard. Turned out decent though.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Red, Congratulations, looks decent :thumbsup:
.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Thanks. I kinda messed up on the top right corner, but the web was slightly where the pipe passes so it all came out as a chunk. Was quite the job, there there is definitely the sense of accomplishment especially now that the project as a whole is done. 

This is outside:


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

congrats.

All you need to do now is clean up the chunks... :lol:


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

LOL yeah I still did not get to that. I don't think the Kool Aid guy is going to do it either.


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