# I built my own trusses



## merle (Dec 18, 2007)

They look ok to me. Did you save much money by building your own trusses? If you take into account the time spent building them then how does it compare.?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

they can be great money savers if you are where you can get a lot of cut offs of 2X. 

a couple things about home built:

they are not engineer certified so a building department may not accept them without an engineers cert.

along that same vein; what the plates are made of and how they are attached may present a problem with the building department as well.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

and you proved what? exactly


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

tomstruble said:


> and you proved what? exactly


that he could do it.

Isn't that the basis of DIY?


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Is this per code?

I'm not sure whether those wood gussets will provide the long term structural stability that steel ones provide. I don't think I've ever seen a truss manufacturer use wood gussets. I would imagine wood gussets would be cheaper than steel, so if it's ok, then a truss manufacturer would also use nailed on gussets also (no need to buy steel, no need to buy huge presses, etc.).

I assume you used nails instead of screws to secure the gussets. How thick are the gussets?


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

they used wood nailed gussets for over 100 years they use steel now cause it is way faster and the can have a control so all the trusses are alike......but I saved a couple hundred dollars it took time wise if I added it all together i would say 15 hours thats cutting all the wood then putting them altogether after.......I used 1/2 ply nails and screws and alot of glue


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

All yeah and thanks Nap.........and I do not have to have anything inspected......the truss specs for the lengths were designed by a truss company.......


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

I assume this isn't planned as a living space with the large door opening and since you didn't extend the trusses to allow soffits to be installed for better heat exhaust.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

its a garage and theres 8" topcord overhang


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

yeah sorry the pics kinda blurred but there will be soffit all around


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Chriscr said:


> yeah sorry the pics kinda blurred but there will be soffit all around


Why didn't you make the opening big enough for two vehicles to drive straight in?


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

There's nothing wrong with properly engineered wood truss plates, in fact it's a standard method of truss repair / reinforcement.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Michael Thomas said:


> There's nothing wrong with properly engineered wood truss plates, in fact it's a standard method of truss repair / reinforcement.


Design vs. repair are two different things.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I built a few buildings just like this 30 some odd years ago and they are still standing and in good shape today. I also worked in a truss factory for a while when my work got slow and I would put my home made trusses up against any of the factory ones any day. As matter of fact I never did trust the metal gussets as they just didn't look like they would hold under pressure. The metal gussets are for speed and the fastest way to build. If you want to compare the two, nail and glue a 12 inch X 12inch piece of plywood to something of heavy wood then press in one of the metal gussets, now see which is the easiest to get loose.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I have no problem with homemade trusses but you might want to do something about this.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

jiju1943 said:


> I built a few buildings just like this 30 some odd years ago and they are still standing and in good shape today. I also worked in a truss factory for a while when my work got slow and I would put my home made trusses up against any of the factory ones any day. As matter of fact I never did trust the metal gussets as they just didn't look like they would hold under pressure. The metal gussets are for speed and the fastest way to build. If you want to compare the two, nail and glue a 12 inch X 12inch piece of plywood to something of heavy wood then press in one of the metal gussets, now see which is the easiest to get loose.


I don't have any problems with homemade trusses as long as they meet code, but based on what you wrote above, then I guess the millions of homes with trusses made with metal gussets should have roofs collapsing within the next 5-10 years since you say they "don't look like they would hold under pressure."

I'm sure no testing was performed on those trusses with metal gussets by the manufacturer to certify their load rating.

If the metal gussets are only for speed, then you wonder why truss builders would spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to buy and maintain giant presses when they can hire someone for minimum wage to put 2x4's in a jig and just glue and nail wood gussets.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

handy man88 said:


> Design vs. repair are two different things.


The standard guide for building glued wooden trusses is:

http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mwps_dis/mwps_web/tr_plans.html

You also need the detailed instructions referenced in the plans, which can be obtained here:

http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/DisplayPub.aspx?P=MWPS9

Occasionally, I inspect a property from the 1950's with _*site-built* _glued wooden trusses.

My suspicion (though it's just a guess) is that they are probably stronger than their modern pre-manufactured equivalents as they were likely designed with greater safety margins to allow for their hand-assembled nature.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> I have no problem with homemade trusses but you might want to do something about this.


Nice catch!


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Michael Thomas said:


> The standard guide for building glued wooden trusses is:
> 
> http://www.public.iastate.edu/~mwps_dis/mwps_web/tr_plans.html
> 
> ...


I guess too late for the OP to reference. Hopefully the guidelines match what was built and adhere to local codes.

The only issue may come down the line if the home is being sold and permits are not available.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

handy man88 said:


> I don't have any problems with homemade trusses as long as they meet code, but based on what you wrote above, then I guess the millions of homes with trusses made with metal gussets should have roofs collapsing within the next 5-10 years since you say they "don't look like they would hold under pressure."
> 
> I'm sure no testing was performed on those trusses with metal gussets by the manufacturer to certify their load rating.
> 
> If the metal gussets are only for speed, then you wonder why truss builders would spend hundreds of thousands of dollars to buy and maintain giant presses when they can hire someone for minimum wage to put 2x4's in a jig and just glue and nail wood gussets.


Have you ever seen the metal plates pressed in personally? If you did and still thought they were the best thing going I would question your building expertise. It is very obvious that the metal plates do hold or they wouldn't be still using them, right? It is a fast way to cut corners and for the high dollar presses you are talking about, the ones the company I worked for would have cost about $500 as it was just one press that had to be taken to each gusset.

By the way, how many houses have you built and how big were they?


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

handy man88 said:


> I guess too late for the OP to reference. Hopefully the guidelines match what was built and adhere to local codes.


Yup, in my business we pretty much have to recommend evaluation by a structural engineer if stamped plans are not available even if we are convinced such trusses are way overbuilt, because the *next* buyer may have similar concerns. For same reason I always recommend that a copy of SE's clearance letter *be stapled to the truss* closest to the attic access


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I wouldn’t say that the use of “gang nails” (not metal plates) is a “fast way to cut corners”. It’s all engineered. That’s why they're called “engineered trusses”. A truss factory is just that, a factory. Speed in production is everything. Not to mention gang nails provide a flush connection unlike a plywood gusset that may cause issues in packing and shipping.

Have you ever tried to pull a gang nail off? Not fun.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

Hey kwikfishron I have know idea what you think you saw but what you are seeing is the end of the gusset not a gap there so before you tell me i overlooked something maybe you should ask questions first and i think it will be fine i had 4 guys up there over 800 lbs of weight and she didnt budge........and handyman its not a 2 car garage its a one car garage and my work shop to the left of the door and storage on the right side or there will be room for me to tear a car or truck apart to rebuild it


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

jiju1943 said:


> Have you ever seen the metal plates pressed in personally? If you did and still thought they were the best thing going I would question your building expertise. It is very obvious that the metal plates do hold or they wouldn't be still using them, right? It is a fast way to cut corners and for the high dollar presses you are talking about, the ones the company I worked for would have cost about $500 as it was just one press that had to be taken to each gusset.
> 
> By the way, how many houses have you built and how big were they?


I guess you'll get a chuckle driving down the highway next time when there's suddenly going to be roofs collapsing like dominoes at the nearest McMansion community. 

I've seen gussets pressed into trusses and the presses that were used are large enough to press all the gussets at once for a single truss. I'm talking about large hydraulic presses, not the tiny ones you're experienced with.

As I've said before, I have no problems with the wood gussets as long as they meet code.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

kwikfishron said:


> I wouldn’t say that the use of “gang nails” (not metal plates) is a “fast way to cut corners”. It’s all engineered. That’s why they're called “engineered trusses”. A truss factory is just that, a factory. Speed in production is everything. Not to mention gang nails provide a flush connection unlike a plywood gusset that may cause issues in packing and shipping.
> 
> Have you ever tried to pull a gang nail off? Not fun.


Not only packing and shipping, but a lot of times, these trusses are left out exposed to the environment after delivered to the job site until they are installed and a roof is put over the house. We all know what happens to glued and nailed wood when exposed to the elements, such as delamination, warping, cracking, etc.

I'm not so sure what "speed manufacturing" does for you when comparing gang nail installation vs. nails/glue/boards. For sure, there's less capital equipment investment for the latter. I mean, how much more effort does it take to put down a bead of adhesive, and nail down precut boards with a nail gun?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Don’t know about speed but it’s defiantly more material.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

My pole barn is built just like that. It is 30 years old though. Would I waste my time to save a few hundred bucks and take full responsibility????? Never. It's his bed, he can sleep in it. Anyone's approval or disapproval on a website means nothing. If anything happens, someone will be looking for the responsible party.

IMO, you are playing with fire. I've seen plenty of barns come tumbling down with heavy snow.

BTW, you are going to need plenty more strongholds on the bottom of those trusses to pass inspection. Your inspection card from the truss company will show where and how to place them. Better do some research because you are now the truss company.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Looks like you are almost there. Some basic bracing: http://www.sbcindustry.com/images/publication_images/pbrace.pdf

Add a 2x4, alongside (inside) and below the gable top chords you weakened with the let-in lookouts. This is your weak area carrying the overhang snow load rated at double the roof square foot snow load. 

Remember to notify your H.O.Insurance carrier of the new garage to maintain full coverage.

Put some H-2.5 Simpson connectors at each truss/wall joint for high winds and up-lift.

Gable bracing is required for wind, snow or seismic loads, check with your B.D. for the paper trail required by the H.O.Insurance.

Gary


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

i love this place


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## wnabcptrNH (Jan 29, 2010)

Umm just one comment. With a standard framed roof you would have had some space for storage. Now with the trusses you have no storage. Typically, in my experience stick framing a roof like that would have taken probably the same amount of time as those trusses took you. Just my 2 cents.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

wnabcptrNH said:


> Umm just one comment. With a standard framed roof you would have had some space for storage. Now with the trusses you have no storage. Typically, in my experience stick framing a roof like that would have taken probably the same amount of time as those trusses took you. Just my 2 cents.


Half the time as building trusses but where’s the fun in that?


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## wnabcptrNH (Jan 29, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Half the time as building trusses but where’s the fun in that?


Very true, once you get the rafters cut, get the ridge up, they go up like gang busters


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

well I just came in from working on my garage and I see you gentleman have been busy talking on here......haha.......I got all the 2x4s across the top for the metal roof, still need some more bracing I will get to that later........strung a 30 x 50 foot tarp over the garage....might get some rain the next day or two and trying to keep things dry..........and thanks for some input guys thats better than putting my project down......but again I do not need to get this garage inspected....and I did not go with rafters cause I got a nice veiw out the back of my house and was trying to keep the roof as low as I could and since the garage is 10.5 feet tall then add 5' of truss its pretty tall for a garage on my city lot......and some one did say it right that its my bed and I have to lay in it or that I am playing with fire.......all I can say is I put a lot of thought in this, I didnt do it to really save money I did it cause I knew I could an d I knew I could do it right I have been swinging a hammer since I could pick one up and have built all kinds of stuff from a bird house to 170' long and 8' high I beams that maybe some of you have drove over if your in the PA NY NJ OH MD areas and if anyone of you guys were here and went up on my roof and walked around you would know what I'm saying


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Be sure to use additional bracing if you omit the sheathing on the top chords for lateral shear flow. Diagonals on the bottom chords from the garage wall corners in, also. 2x4 brace line every 10' with an "X" brace required if omitting the drywall below for shear. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...TqnB0t&sig=AHIEtbSVbmDLGaqEJoDnOI5rmXQVBl6Wfw

Gary


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

where are you located chris


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

central PA about mid way between harrisburg and pittsburgh


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## FinalSay (Sep 29, 2010)

Chriscr said:


> I post awhile back about seeing if anyone on here ever built there own trusses, I got alot of flack about this from people saying I was crazy to stupid for wanting to do this. Well I did it and they are great and very very strong
> View attachment 25121
> 
> 
> ...


I saw many homemade trusses 30 years ago however, in Ontario it would require a P Eng to certify these types of trusses. They are not covered under Part Nine of the Ontario Building code.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

well I dont live in Ontario so I'm not worried about anything, I know in most cases these trusses dont work for people because of getting them inspected. But I did not need to have anything inspected, and I had the time to build them and I wanted to build them. I did alot of research on building trusses and found out the fink truss is very simple and figuring out the spans was easy even though I had already had the spans off anouther truss. I posted this to show if someone has a project like a small garage or something like a hunting cabin way out in the middle of knowhwere that you can build your own on site.


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

Chriscr said:


> Hey kwikfishron I have know idea what you think you saw but what you are seeing is the end of the gusset not a gap there so before you tell me i overlooked something maybe you should ask questions first and i think it will be fine i had 4 guys up there over 800 lbs of weight and she didnt budge........


I see what I think kwikfishron sees, (2) 2x4s end butted. Is there a gusset on the other side or is that sheet of plywood the gusset? No need to get snippy Chriscr. From the picture's view, it looks like there is no connection at that joint.
Other than that I think you did a good job.:thumbsup: From my view, you didn't over do the gussets with nails which only weakens the wood. Brace it up as suggested and get it dried in. 
When the truss manufacturer dropped trusses on our jobsites, 8 times outta 10 the trusses were bent right where those metal plates were. Those little spikes only go in about a 1/4", tops. But when one comes loose you only mash it to bits trying to hammer it back in.
The OP built these trusses for his own place and not for a paying customer.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

yes there is a gusset on each side, that sheet of osb is up there for extra storage just incase I need the room but I hope I never have to use it. and its a nice place to stand and to lay materials for when we strung the 2x4s across and for the metal roof .........and of course I am going to get snippy when someone points out flaws that arnt there.


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Nice job Chris.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

Thank You very much Jogr.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

That's going to be a nice garage :thumbsup:


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