# Question about using a miter saw to cut copper pipe



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

POTATO/ POTATOE 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other. 

Either way you have burrs to be cleaned up?

ED


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I just can not imagine anyone even using a compound saw to cut copper pipe!
Burrs on the outside, inside, chips inside the pipe, distorting the OD.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

why are you using a mitre saw to cut copper pipe in teh first place.. why not a hacksaw or a a pipe cutter


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The first 3 words explains it all. "Where I work"

We can't compete with the foreign market using hand tools.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Interesting question--being a round object--getting cut by another round object---I think it makes no differance what so ever---

I never tried that---How do you quickly deburr the cut pipe?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If I were going to do that I wouldn't cut from the front, cutting with the back of the blade it will pick the pipe up.


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## spaceman spif (Jul 28, 2009)

The reason for a miter saw is because we build HVAC's for heavy duty equipment at the plant where I work. So I'm not talking about cutting a pipe here and there, I'm talking about cutting dozens of copper pipes every single day. No way we could keep up with our production schedule if they were cutting the hard pipe with a hack saw or pipe cutter. But we do de-burr them by hand - that doesn't take long.

The reason I asked is we've recently had trouble cutting the pipe and it's losing it's roundness as a result. My suspicion is we're getting a batch of low-quality, slightly thinner walled pipe but they're swearing up and down it's the same pipe as always. The miter saw has an adjustable clamp where you crank one flat plate up against the pipe to press it against the back wall to hold it in place. A round pipe being held by two flat plates? So I asked a toolmaker if he could modify the clamp mechanism so it was curved to fit the pipe better. He was the one who suggested that bringing the blade straight down was causing the problem and we should adjust the clamps so the blade came down a little behind the very top of the pipe.

(and in case anyone is wondering, we've looked into CNC machinery and such to bend and cut our pipes, but the accountants said no :no: )


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

This sounds to me like it could be solved with a better quality blade.....:huh:

think about it...Why would the tube compress except from pressure from a dull blade?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

ratherbefishin' said:


> This sounds to me like it could be solved with a better quality blade.....:huh:
> 
> think about it...Why would the tube compress except from pressure from a dull blade?


If you wanted to compress tubing to flatten it would you choose a vise with flat jaws or a vise with half round jaws that approximated the radius of the tubing?


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## gassyplumber (Sep 17, 2014)

Try a bandsaw


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

i was just going to say bandsaw or a actual metal cut off saw would be better. i have used a mitre saw for cutting metal but it has been anodized aluminum trim pieces for commercial cubicle units for offic interiors.. its a hateful thing to cut which requires dust collection and its hard on the saw and on the ears


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## spaceman spif (Jul 28, 2009)

We bought a new metal cutting blade a couple of days ago and it didn't seem to help, even when I tried cutting very slowly. But a bench mounted band saw isn't a bad idea, especially the type that you pull down like a miter saw. :thumbsup:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Wrong clamp as you mentioned. Suggest V block clamp both sides - toggle clamp.

Check round after clamped but before cutting. If only out of round after the cut the clamp is too close to the cut. 

Chop saws are normally used for cutting metal, not miter saws.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Chop saw should work fine. Only need to clamp tight enough to prevent the pipe from spinning. Are you using a non-ferrous metal blade and a wax stick?


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Assuming that you are primarily working with stuff that is 2 inch or less, you might want to look at
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/122-copper-cutting-and-prep-machine


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Great suggestion on that Ridgid 122 copper cutting machine.
It does much more than cut copper.
It *Cuts, Cleans, Reams, and Deburs* copper from* 1/2 to 4"*

*ref http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-10973-...8&qid=1413928434&sr=8-1&keywords=ridgid+122xl*

*NOTE:*
*The 122XL is the new model*
The original 122 had a max capacity of 2"


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Oso954 said:


> Assuming that you are primarily working with stuff that is 2 inch or less, you might want to look at
> https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/122-copper-cutting-and-prep-machine


Years ago when I worked for a large plumbing shop, we prefabbed a lot of work in the shop. Had a full time crew 
Simple shower valve assemblies for motels- to complete chase assemblies for prisons.
We always used a chop saw. IMO it's a basic tool that needs little adjustment, maintenance or training to operate.
With the proper blade installed, reaming is almost removed from the equation-just an occasional burr...


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## spaceman spif (Jul 28, 2009)

Oso954 said:


> Assuming that you are primarily working with stuff that is 2 inch or less, you might want to look at
> https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/122-copper-cutting-and-prep-machine


That looks excellent!! :thumbup:


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

> That looks excellent!! :thumbup:


The new 122XL model cuts and preps up to 4 inch copper

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/122xl-copper-cutting-prep-machine


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Thanks for the info Bob, I was not aware of the bigger machine.

It is about $650 more than the 122 at Amazon. 
http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-93492-...TF8&qid=1413957729&sr=8-1&keywords=ridgid+122


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