# Patio and external door opinions



## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

I am going to need some new external doors: One sliding patio door, 1entry way door, and 1 external door for going inot the kitchen. 

1) It has been stated on other posts that Anderson makes the best patio doors. Any details as to why? I am planing on getting a wood door with some type of external clading. Plan to paint the interior white.

2) How about MArvin patio doors?

3) Any opinions on entry way doors? What do I need to be concerned about?


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Beerdog, you asked for opinions and I have one. You live in the Chicago suburbs and I am in S. GA. a lot of difference in climate I'm sure, and I will admit I know nothing about your climate except what I have heard- -Cold and Windy. I have a business doing minor home repairs, sort of "Household Handyman" type work and I do replace doors-often. Personally, I do not like sliding glass doors, no manufacturers. I have connections with people who own condo's on the Gulf Coast of FL. and I go down there to do work and trade out vacation time. You should see what two years will do to a set of these down there. Here in S. GA. the frames of sliding glasss doors will start go discolor withing five years and the sliding mechanisms will go bad within these five years also. I have had many customers ask me to replace these sliding units with French Doors units or Patio Door units. These newer units that are steel clad, or fiberglass clad on the outside are pretty and much more weather resistant than the older total wooden units were. Painting the inside or outside of thes newere units is also much easier nowdays with the paints available to us. On your entryway door, which may be exposed to the elements I also recommend steel clad or fiberglass clad, OR the newer total fiberglass doors. These units are beautiful, strong, weather-resistant, and can be painted. On your entryway door, is this an inside only door? Your local big box (HD/Lowe's), whatever you have up there should have those for you to select from. Plan your job, make sketches, look at what's available and do a good job. David


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

I knid of have to go with a sliding patio door due ot space constraints. The entry way door is an exterior door.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

I don't know if Andersen makes the "best" doors, but they make a good door for the money. I personnally like the French slider, but they carry a few of them at varying price points.
Therma tru makes a nice fiberglass door that can be painted or stained.
Ron


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

I ordered an Andersen Frenchwood glider that is being delivered on Friday. I'll let you know how I like it next week. It's an 8' Stormwatch 400.


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## ckellyusa (Mar 16, 2009)

where do you guys rank pella?


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

Pella always thought of themselves as the Cadillac of windows. After some experiences several of my customers had, I think they are more like a Yugo. Several customers were experiencing rotted sashes and frames that were just over the ten warranty. Pella would do nothing. One customer had called in a lawyer, and even that did nothing.

By contrast, I have had Andersen customers with hardware problems on 20+ yr old windows (normal warranty on these parts is 10 yrs), and Andersen supplied them at no cost. This is a big reason I prefer Andersen. Marvin also makes a quality product, but at a considerably higher cost.


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

Thermatru makes a great entry door as stated above. In this climate (Milwaukee/Chicago) I recommend fiberglass...As for Patio doors, whether you choose Pella, Anderson, or Marvin you will get a decent product (as long as you don't buy their cheaper models). People say that one is way better or way worse just because it is the one that they use...or you could look at a vinyl unit. Most higher end vinyl units actually have a wood core and a very well built. It is just a matter of the look you are going for.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

HomeSealed said:


> Thermatru makes a great entry door as stated above. In this climate (Milwaukee/Chicago) I recommend fiberglass...As for Patio doors, whether you choose Pella, Anderson, or Marvin you will get a decent product (as long as you don't buy their cheaper models). People say that one is way better or way worse just because it is the one that they use...or you could look at a vinyl unit. Most higher end vinyl units actually have a wood core and a very well built. It is just a matter of the look you are going for.


I do not know what Home Seal is refering too when it comes to cheaper models... Andersen uses the same glass in their upper models as in the lower models... the difference is options... the 400 Series has Standard HP Glass which is Low-e4 (argon filled, low-e 4 glass) the 200 Series has the same HP glass which states it's Low-e but it has Low-e4 and Argon which is the same as the 400 Series. I sell both Marvin and Andersen...I rate Andersen Patio Doors just a little better than Marvin...also A/W should be about $80 to $150 cheaper if you compare top models... if you buy the Marvin be sure to stain all 5 sides that have exposed wood(on both Stat and Oper panels) and if you buy the Andersen follow the instructions to the tee...but I would recommend caulking under the interlock weather stripping the whole distance under both pieces on the Andersen... I know that A/W you can get parts still from 1966 for the Perma shield patio doors.... If you need a different color and options than the basic then Marvin is your door for sure... both make great products... both are top of the line.. but you need to compare the two close up to really tell the difference which is not much...but you can not go wrong with either...


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## maryj (Mar 20, 2009)

*Go to home shows to see different brands*

I have found the admission fee into the spring home shows worth the money when we are looking for specific items and we want to comparison shop. We have installed numerous doors -Pella, Simpson, Home Depot, Viking, and Anderson. My husband likes Anderson - quality built door and especially on the patio doors he liked the double locking mechanism. What we have noticed is the moisture build up in the Home Depot door between the glass panes. I so dislike this door - one left to replace. Old saying - you get what you pay for. Sometimes you will find warehouse sales on closeouts and if you have flexibility in the size of the door - can make the opening smaller or build in a side light you may find some good deals. This is where I got our Anderson single exterior door for about $200. Nice wood interior and I believe a metal on the outside. Good luck.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

EMILY P said:


> I do not know what Home Seal is refering too when it comes to cheaper models... Andersen uses the same glass in their upper models as in the lower models... the difference is options... the 400 Series has Standard HP Glass which is Low-e4 (argon filled, low-e 4 glass) the 200 Series has the same HP glass which states it's Low-e but it has Low-e4 and Argon which is the same as the 400 Series. I sell both Marvin and Andersen...I rate Andersen Patio Doors just a little better than Marvin...also A/W should be about $80 to $150 cheaper if you compare top models... if you buy the Marvin be sure to stain all 5 sides that have exposed wood(on both Stat and Oper panels) and if you buy the Andersen follow the instructions to the tee...but I would recommend caulking under the interlock weather stripping the whole distance under both pieces on the Andersen... I know that A/W you can get parts still from 1966 for the Perma shield patio doors.... If you need a different color and options than the basic then Marvin is your door for sure... both make great products... both are top of the line.. but you need to compare the two close up to really tell the difference which is not much...but you can not go wrong with either...
> 
> Also ask for what Patio Door meets the government requirement for the .30 u-factor and .30 SCHG both have to be .30 or below- Both comapnies Marvin and ANdersen have products that meet these requirements...if you make over $250,000 it will be a pro rated deductable.. if you make less than that you get a 30% tax break... if you buy either door save the label and the receipt...also never use WD40 on the patio door tracks..WD40 attracts dirt...use 100% fast drying silicone
> 
> I do not believe the Pella Proline Door meets these new tax deductable requirements/ but the designer series I believe does-but check out the NFRC Ratings or Pella website... I do not recommend Pella but if you have to have blinds then good luck... the Proline Door could be involved in part of the Class Action Law suite .. if so stay way from it... check out the pella complaints.com and pella class action law suite for your self... good luck


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Emily_P (and others)...any opinions on entryway doors?


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

EMILY P said:


> I do not know what Home Seal is refering too when it comes to cheaper models... Andersen uses the same glass in their upper models as in the lower models... the difference is options... the 400 Series has Standard HP Glass which is Low-e4 (argon filled, low-e 4 glass) the 200 Series has the same HP glass which states it's Low-e but it has Low-e4 and Argon which is the same as the 400 Series. I sell both Marvin and Andersen...I rate Andersen Patio Doors just a little better than Marvin...also A/W should be about $80 to $150 cheaper if you compare top models... if you buy the Marvin be sure to stain all 5 sides that have exposed wood(on both Stat and Oper panels) and if you buy the Andersen follow the instructions to the tee...but I would recommend caulking under the interlock weather stripping the whole distance under both pieces on the Andersen... I know that A/W you can get parts still from 1966 for the Perma shield patio doors.... If you need a different color and options than the basic then Marvin is your door for sure... both make great products... both are top of the line.. but you need to compare the two close up to really tell the difference which is not much...but you can not go wrong with either...


That's funny, you say that you don't know what I'm talking about as far as going for the higher end models, then a couple posts later you rip Pella Proline which is one of their cheaper products. As I stated previously, any of the above mentioned brands have a quality product as long as you go with their premium products.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

HomeSealed said:


> That's funny, you say that you don't know what I'm talking about as far as going for the higher end models, then a couple posts later you rip Pella Proline which is one of their cheaper products. As I stated previously, any of the above mentioned brands have a quality product as long as you go with their premium products.


 I meant as far as Andersen and Marvin lines. You did not mention them by name. I'm sorry, I took the post differently. Sorry, your right Pro Line Pella Doors are below mid band product line, and I would not recommend them too anyone who thinks they are quality product from Pella. Especially the Hinged Pella Door---bulky black weather strip around the face of the door and in the middle- totally takes away the look of any door....hinges can not be adjusted verticially, in case of saging...well I better stop ...your right Pella ProLine isn't something I would sell a friend or customer for that matter...


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

beerdog said:


> Emily_P (and others)...any opinions on entryway doors?


 
1)Therma Tru
2)Plast Pro
3)Masonite 
there are many out there and it depands on the distributor - some local door companys have great doors....

My favorite is Therma Tru but there might be a better band out there...
I like all the options and glass therma tru has to offer...


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

ckellyusa said:


> where do you guys rank pella?


 
Pella Proline found at Lowes does not rank in the top five for Patio Doors--

Andersen
Marvin
Eagle
Koble/Koble
Weathershield
then
Pella
Peachtree
Crestline
If your looking at Designer Series Pella then possilby third...


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Emily

I notice that you list Thermatru as your top choice. I have been asking arround locally and their name keeps comming up as a top entry way door company. They only make fiberglass entryway doors. Why would you recommend wood as the best choice for patio doors and windows yet not for entry way doors? Maybe I am intepreting your posts incorrectly.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

beerdog said:


> Emily
> 
> I notice that you list Thermatru as your top choice. I have been asking arround locally and their name keeps comming up as a top entry way door company. They only make fiberglass entryway doors. Why would you recommend wood as the best choice for patio doors and windows yet not for entry way doors? Maybe I am intepreting your posts incorrectly.


Therma Tru-fiberglass door is tops-polyurethane core-well insultated Therma tru makes steel doors also-I like the fiberglass/u-factors 
Steel has a polystrene core-which is not as well insulated

Andersen Patio Doors-because of construction of the door and how it is assembled - and you can get it factory assembled from A/W- 
Wood is nature best insulator-steel capped track-thermally broken sill-adjustable dual tandum rollers-interior options Oak-Maple-Pine-hardware options


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

I'm frequently hired to diagnose water intrusion problems at patio doors, and the most important factor is _the quality of installation, not the quality of the door._ A relatively "low quality" door properly installed is far more likely perform adequately in terms of preventing water intrusion (which is by far the most frequent serious problems with these doors) than the best quality door you can buy if it's incorrectly installed. 

The exact installation technique required depends on the wall material, and the toughest jobs to do properly are retrofits into walls with multiple layers of cladding, for example vinyl siding over wood, especially if the outer layer of siding has not been installed properly (for example, the required water resistant barrier material has been omitted). Stucco is another material where an inexperienced or careless installer can create problems.

The door manufacture will provide installation instructions, but these will typically address installations in new construction, and while they may cover some recommended flashing details they typically will not cover the specific techniques required at the junctions of the wall cladding with the door - that's specific to the cladding, and often to the details of a specific installation.

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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Not factoring in the high cost, is wood still the best choice for entry doors? I see that some are very nice but a nice solid oak door is 2-3X the cost of a good fiberglass door.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

beerdog said:


> Not factoring in the high cost, is wood still the best choice for entry doors? I see that some are very nice but a nice solid oak door is 2-3X the cost of a good fiberglass door.


I would recommend a Cladded Wood door if your after an entry door. Most only have 1 year warranty. I hope any one using a wood door, would have a overhang, or receed entry way. There are so many real nice expensive wood doors out there, KML by Andersen, IWP Jeld Wen, and Preachtree. But read the fine print.....


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

Michael Thomas said:


> I'm frequently hired to diagnose water intrusion problems at patio doors, and the most important factor is _the quality of installation, not the quality of the door._ A relatively "low quality" door properly installed is far more likely perform adequately in terms of preventing water intrusion (which is by far the most frequent serious problems with these doors) than the best quality door you can buy if it's incorrectly installed.
> 
> The exact installation technique required depends on the wall material, and the toughest jobs to do properly are retrofits into walls with multiple layers of cladding, for example vinyl siding over wood, especially if the outer layer of siding has not been installed properly (for example, the required water resistant barrier material has been omitted). Stucco is another material where an inexperienced or careless installer can create problems.
> 
> ...


 Excellent post.


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