# Basement shower drain help..



## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

I have, or should I say there was a bathroom in my basement, with shower, toilet, and sink. I removed everything, I was going to add a 2 inc pipe to the drain that sticks out of the ground so when I install the new shower it will reach. I was going to change the pipe and noticed that its a 2 inc p trap going into a 1 1/2 inc pipe then it goes down into the ground to the 4 inc stack. My question is a 1 1/2 inc pipe sufficient for a shower drain? Also is it okay that its 2 inc going into 1 1/2? Thanks


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## ididit (Jan 31, 2008)

are you very hairy? :laughing: Just a thought on what the drain will have to put up with. If you can get at it without tearing up the world i would recommend replaceing it with 2". If not then just keep the draino handy and it'll be ok.:yes:


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Thats what I thought, it drain fairly good when the previous shower was there, but I think I am going to take out the jack hammer and start busting up the floor. I will have to open up the floor in order to get to the 4 inc stack, where I can cut it and add a pvc tee, 4x4x2. Thanks:thumbsup:


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## askaplumber (Feb 9, 2008)

Good answer! Make plumbers proud!


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Yes replace existing with 2", thats how I would do it.


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## ididit (Jan 31, 2008)

im not a plumber but i stayed at a holiday in last night :laughing:


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Okay, went to concur the drain pipe this morning thinking I will cut the cast iron slip in a 4x4x2 tee, and bam shower drain ready to go. Guess what ended up cutting the entire concrete floor in the basement, 37 ft of it!:furious: 
When I dug up the shower drain area, I checked to see how the drain was connected because I didn't see a tee. The pipe had a hole on the top, and they had some sort of clamp on the main drain that had come off. The only thing that was holding it was the concrete on the top. It was like those gizmo that one use to tap on water lines for the refrigerator ice maker, you know the ones that always leak, but a bigger version of it. As I started to inspect the main sewer drain line, I noticed there was a hole underneath the pipe about the 2inc round and pipe was rotted. That when I threw my hat on the floor, spoke a little french and then set sh__! this whole pipe has to come off. I have everything out and ready for tomorrow to install new 4 inc PVC. My question is on the shower drain, I am going to use a 4X4X2 tee. Do I put the tee facing the 2 inc to the side, or do I put the tee with the 2 inc to the top? Also, I was planning to make a clean out near the end where it gets close to the City sewer. How can I make a clean out there? Do I use say a 4X4X3 tee, or do I use a 4X4X3 whye? Also what parts do I need? Thanks


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Use a 4 x 4 x 2 wye with street 45 of the wye not a tee for that shower drain, tilt to the side, invert at a 45 degree, then add another 45 elbopw and shoot towards the shower drain, don't forget to add a vent for that shower drain within 5' of the trap. For clean out use a wye fitting again.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Okay Ron, I got a little lost there, I'm good up to the wye... Can you draw something there for me when you get a chance? I have a sink vent like 3 feet away, do I still need to add another vent seperate for that shower drain? Thanks, your a life saver!


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Here each fixture must be vented before you tie into the main or the branch line, so no you can't use the vent from the sink as the vent for the shower, I can't see your layout, so I'm talking blindly here.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Okay, the layout runs perdicular to the wall, toilet, sink, then shower. So that means everything needs to be vented? Even the toilet it as well? Do I use wye fittings on all drains? How do I vent the toilet?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

I need pictures please of what your seeing there.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Hope this helps. this is the layout. If I take a picture, all you will see is a big hole in my basement going from one end to the other, and a Big pile of dirt!


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Draw in the wall/s where the toilet and shower is showing, wall layout is needed and as seen there or as it will turn out as seen


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, there will be a wall right behind the toilet, sink and shower. There will be a wall to the left of the toilet, and a wall to the right of the shower, door entrance will probably be by the toilet openning out. Hope this helps, I am sore even to type.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Like this and where is that sewer line at inside the room?


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks for the drawing, the sewer line is running I would say around 17 inches behind the toilet, (it is not in the room, but 17 inches back). Also, there is a 2 inc vent stack about 3 feet from the toilet, so I can tie into that for venting, it goes all the way up and ties to the main stack above all bathroom fixtures upstairs bath.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

How about this.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

So everything has to be vented before it hits the stack? Also the drain line goes from left to the right towards the main sewer discharge. Am I using wyes on everything?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Yes wye for all the branch lines, stack? what stack?, are you not working ground level?


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Sorry about that, I meant ground level sewer line. Also the wye do I put them side way, or a little higher up? Also everything vented before it hits main sewer line??? *On the toilet* I don't have enough room to install another wye or tee for venting., what can be done??? Can I vent from the pipe thats going up to the flange, since its about 3 feet deep?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Sideway is fine just keep the 1/4" per ft' grade.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

How about the toilet venting???


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Use a wye combo on it's back vent into the back wall if you can.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Your talking plumbing language. Do you mean to use two wyes? One for the drain and one for the venting? If thats the case, I don't have room for it.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Can you use a tee for the vent, How deep is the line from you finish grade?


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Its about 2 1/2 feet deep, where would the tee be placed?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

OK use a low heal 90 at the wall just behind the toilet then a long turn 90 below the low heal, then tie into the wye combo off of mainline connection.

Low heal 90 will give you your vent vertical in the wall.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, I'm lost. I am not a plumber...


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Here how about this?


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

I wish I could take this picture to the plumbing store, and say here I want to do this give me the parts,lol. I don't think this is going to happen tomorrow, I am lost and stress out with the hole I have in my basement, not to mention no water can be used. We are staying in a friends house until this gets done! I wish I could hire a plumber, but this house has drained me out! Thanks alot for all your help Ron


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Good morning Ron, on that last drawing that you did for me, toilet, sink and shower drains, can I use tees for the venting??? I will put them facing up and tie into vent stack, let me know, Thanks. Getting ready to go get all parts this morning.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

No it will not be code, they have to be wye's tying into the mainline, if you don't have room then you will need to offset the main to allow the needed distance.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Offset the mainline in the ground to run straight under the wall behind the toilet and lav sink, directly under it. then get a lowheal for toilet and that will get your toilet plumbed in right, then turn a wye combo up for the lav turn up into wall for shower using a wye combo, the tee towards the shower


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Got a little bit of energy this morning. I meant 4x4x4 wye for the toilet, then tie a 4x4x4 tee for the venting. Then 4x4x2 wye on sewer line, then 2x2x2 tee for the venting. Then 4x4x2 wye for the shower, then a 2x2x2 tee for the venting after the wye? Or are you saying no tees allowed in sewer lines? Thanks so much, making a list of all parts needed, besides 40 ft of 4 inc pipe. I got alittle bit more of digging today, but all concrete is busted up already.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Hey Ron, can I at least paypal you for a pack of brew?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Your going to have to make drawing up, like I do so I can see it.

Like this under the wall after off setting the mainline.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, on the toilet you are going 3 inc, I thought I could stay with 4inc. Also on the shower drain you are going 1 1/2, can I just stay with 2 inc on all venting?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

You can stay 2" on the venting if you like, I said 3" cause it's eaiser to deal with over 4", but if you prefer 4" then use 4"

Where it says 4 x 2 combo at toilet, I meant 4 x 3 combo, if you go 4' to toilet, you won't find 4" low heal I don't think, you then will use a santee instead of a lowheal.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Okay Ron, thanks for your patience, I got everything now for the sink and shower drain. I am stuck with the toilet issue, also I'll do the 3 inc as you stated, can you be a little more clear on the toilet connection. I got as far as the 4x4x3 wye, then from there I am stuck.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Also Ron, on the shower drain you have 2x11/2x2 san tee. As I look at the picture, the bottom of the tee would have to be 2inc, the middle where the drain would be would have to be 2 inc, and the top where the vent you have 1 1/2, do they make that sort of tee?


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, here some pictures. That's what I started and I will pull it all out. Notice I have two pipe drains coming in, a 4 inc and a 3 inc that leaded to the 4 inc drain in a y. Please help me out with this one, should be my last bath! Thanks. Also I try to do a google on a heal tee, and no luck. Do you a picture of a heal tee?

[img=http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/9326/bathroompipesbd0.th.jpg]

[img=http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/1430/bath2uj1.th.jpg]


[img=http://img352.imageshack.us/img352/8505/bath3cy4.th.jpg]


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Can anyone help me vent this toilet drain, please I need to get this back up and running. Thanks so much.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Wow I said not to use tees coming of the mainline, wye combos are needed, the toilet is a challenge, thought you said there was 2.5 feet depth from finish surface to top of sewer line.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, that was before I was in contact with you. I went to the house to day dug that out and removed all piping. If you tell me to use wyes I won't go using tees. Now how can I proceed fresh, just remember I have a 3inc and a 4 inc drain that need to be in a wye to go into the 4 inc main. Thanks man, I thought you had abandon me.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Had to work you know, this is not a job on this forum it's all volunteer


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

I understand Ron, I was off today and I assumed you were off too. This is wow! I picked up all the wyes you told me, but couldn't find a 3 inc heal, and don't know what it looks like.

[img=http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/3555/dscf0066rt3.th.jpg]


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

I'm looking for a picture now


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

This is not a good picture of a low heal, here is what it will look like


And the tee 2 x 1-1/2 x 2 SanTee they make.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

okay Ron, so on that low heal tee, will I have to reduce the top to 2inc for the venting? Also on the san tee 2x11/2x2,(*shower drain*) wouldn't the 1 1/2 be in the middle, I thought the drain would be 2 inc?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

1-1/2 is on top of the 2 x 1-1/2 x 2 santee, the side inlet is always last in the name of the fitting. Name goes, Bottom, Top, Side

They make low heals that are already at 2", but you can reduce the tee if you like, set the combo straight up, set tee of lowheal pointed towards the closet flange and the get the vent into the wall.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

So the low heal would be a 3x2x3 low heal? Also, I will plce the low heal right off the combo?
Heres a photo I owe you:
[img=http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4663/dscf0071vi7.th.jpg]


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Yes right on the top of the combo turned towards the flange, then vent off the top of the 2" into the wall.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

helpless handyman said:


> Heres a photo I owe you:
> [img=http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4663/dscf0071vi7.th.jpg]


Sweet, I'll send you the bill :laughing:


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

*Ron*, *I give you all the credit on that one:thumbsup: *Last but not least, I am basically putting all 3 wye combo facing up? What had me puzzled was the wye combo. I knew what a wye was, but didn't know what a wye combo look like until I google it. I was wondering how the heck was a wye going to work there...Thanks man, your the BEST! I will be able to sleep tonight and get my parts hopefullt tomorrow.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Sure you can, should make it easy to get the vents and drain for lav in the wall that away.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Before I go to sleep, on the toilet drain, do I use an elbow when I'm turning up?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Use a short turn 90 on the turn to the closet flange. Set Flange 13" off the rough back wall, min of 15-1/2" from the side wall.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Got it Thanks!


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

I couldn't find a wye combo, can a wye with a 1/8 street elbow do?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Sure can


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks, I want to add a cleanout near the end where is starts to meet the outside piping. Does it make sense to put it there? Also should I do the clean out 2" or 3" ?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

3" cleanout right where you said.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

On the cleanout, using the wye do I pipe straight up and then add one of those plugs, or does it have to go on an angle? Thanks


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Straight up is fine.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks:thumbsup:


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Here is another way to plumb toilet in if depth is an issue.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

I like this, but will need further details when you have a chance. Thanks


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Come off the mainline using a wye 4 x 3 then hit a 45 el towards the center of toilet flange, before the 90 turn up towards the flange use a 3 x 3 wye with a 45 elbow, invert this on a 45 slope, then use a 45 el to head towards the wall, and then LT 90 up into the wall, you have have a legal vent and drain for the toilet.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

How far apart should I start that 4x3 wye from the closet flange?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Put it far enough away so you won't have a problem getting the fittings in. 6' to 7' away, need the space to get the vent happening.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Okay Ron, got everything ready for tomorrow morning, last but not least. How far should that 3x2 wye be from the toilet flange? Does it matter?
Thanks


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Don't matter how far, as long is it is with in 6' that 6' includes the toilet stub up, so if you have 1' on the drop to the 90 then you can go up to 5' before you tie the 3 x 2 wye in there.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, everything went well. I bought a shower pan, and it one of those that you can buy the additional panels for. I want to use just the shower base only, and frame around it and add tile later on. My question, this pan comes with a small plastic neck under it, like a piece of pipe all in one piece attached to the pan. Can I use this pan for what I intend to do, or do they sell special pans for this. Want to stay away from mud pan. Thanks


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Picture of the pan or a link showing this pan would be nice.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Here you Ron, it's a Mustee Fiberglass Shower Floor 3636M:

[img=http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1627/showerbase2di0.th.jpg]

[img=http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/3205/showerbase3fd1.th.jpg]

[img=http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/4599/showerbaserp3.th.jpg]

It's the one that you slip over the 2 inc pvc, then you have to hammer the rubber around the pvc to make seal. My question is can I use this? My pvc pipe will then have to be cement to the ground so it won't move. Let me know what you think, or should I look for another one? Also it doesn't have predrilled holes, so I would have to predrill and screw to the rough framing. All your ideas are welcomed. Also can cement boards be placed over the lip as well?Thanks
Here a link:
http://doitbest.com/Shower+stalls-Mustee_+E.+L.-model-3636M-doitbest-sku-438725.dib


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Looks good, yes predrill the holes and put mortar under the base, you can use cement boards if you wish.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Ron, so I will have to cement the floor where the p trap will be, and just leave the 2 inc pipe sticking out? This way the pipe won't move when I am pounding that rubber in around the pvc. Will the concrete harm the pvc? I didn't want to cement the pvc trap, but I guess I don't have any choice now, or I should say there is no other way?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

No you don't want to cement the pipe in place, just make sure the trap is sitting on firm ground, and the pipe in vertical and on center, should work just fine.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Sounds better, I didn't want to cement the pipe!
Thanks Ron:thumbsup:


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