# framing around ductwork



## jcrampton

I have ductwork running the length of my basement, right in the middle of the room. I want to sheetrock around the ducts.

My question is how to sheetrock around the ducts with minimal effect to head clearance, as you are walking underneath.

My initial thought would be to install 2x2s parallel to the ductwork and attach the sheetrock directly to the bottom of the 2x2s.

Should the sheetrock touch the ductwork or should I frame the entire duct with 2x2s?

Also, how far apart should the 2x2s be? Maybe place a 2x2 at every perpendicular joist?


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## jcrampton

*metal frame?*

Is there some sort of metal framing I could install around the ductwork. Maybe that might be easier. As long as the sheetrock can securely be attached to the metal.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

jcrampton said:


> Is there some sort of metal framing I could install around the ductwork. Maybe that might be easier. As long as the sheetrock can securely be attached to the metal.


Hi,

Yes, you could use steel framing around the ductwork, and then install your sheetrock to it. I would suggest that you get the sheetrock right up under the ductwork - to gain as much headroom as you can....


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## jcrampton

*sheetrock touching ductwork*

is it ok for the sheetrock to touch the ductwork? any condensation concerns or expansion of the duct when running?


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## AtlanticWBConst.

jcrampton said:


> is it ok for the sheetrock to touch the ductwork? any condensation concerns or expansion of the duct when running?


....From what I have found out, this is basically an 'urban myth'.

.... You see, unless you keep your basement at really cold temperatures....you shouldn't have to worry about condensation. 

I've consulted about this very point before with my HVAC contractor (25 years in the biz and he is also a certified system design engineer) 

It's a concern that alot people comment or ask about...
However, there has to be a difference in the temperature of more than 40 degrees + for condensation to occur. 
So, unless you are cooling your home below 60 degrees and your basement temps are above 100.....
Or....your heating your home above 75 and your basement is below 35 degrees...

...You have nothing to worry about. However, to have peace of mind, you can use densarmor sheetrock around the ductwork.

link:

http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=DensArmor%C2%AE%2BPlus%2BInterior%2BWallboard&pid=4659&hierarchy

Many of the big home improvement stores are now carrying it at a reasonable price....


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## ADKstorm

*talked about in other thread*

http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?p=40438#post40438


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## AtlanticWBConst.

ADKstorm said:


> http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?p=40438#post40438


I looked up the other thread.....nice pics and illustrations ADK....


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## handyflyer

The book How to finish a Basement by Roger German has an excellent description on how to soffit. He uses 2x4 laying flat. I put them 16 on center. Seems pretty sturdy for now. My total width is 48.5 inches. Total lenght is 27 ft. Great book. Highly recommended.


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## handyflyer

Sorry the name of the book is Remodeling a Basement by Roger German. It is published by Taunton. I just built a 25 ft by 49" soffit using his techniques. The only thing I did different was place the 2x4 lookouts 16 on center as opposed to 24 on center like he recommends. I was able to do the soffit with no help. It was a little awkward at times but it is pretty solid.


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## Webguy64

jcrampton said:


> Is there some sort of metal framing I could install around the ductwork. Maybe that might be easier. As long as the sheetrock can securely be attached to the metal.


You could use metal framing for the entire soffit. Metal studs are pretty easy to work with- just make sure you get the self-tapping sheet metal screws. Yes- you then attach the sheetrock directly to the metal frame. Not sure if it's any easier- the soffit will be much lighter and easier to attach (especially if you're working alone), but the tradeoff is the metal is harder to cut (obviously) than 2x2s or 2x4s.

Just another option, I guess. Good luck!

Roger
_________________________________________________
Visit Finish a Basement: A DIY Remodeling Adventure!
www.finishabasement.com


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Webguy64 said:


> You could use metal framing for the entire soffit. Metal studs are pretty easy to work with- just make sure you get the self-tapping sheet metal screws. Yes- you then attach the sheetrock directly to the metal frame. Not sure if it's any easier- the soffit will be much lighter and easier to attach (especially if you're working alone), but the tradeoff is the metal is harder to cut (obviously) than 2x2s or 2x4s.
> 
> Just another option, I guess. Good luck!
> 
> Roger
> _________________________________________________
> Visit Finish a Basement: A DIY Remodeling Adventure!
> www.finishabasement.com


 
Just realize that metal framing is very flexible and is primarily designed to be used with 5/8" sheetrock. 
The thicker/stronger/firmer 5/8" SR gives steel framed walls, soffits, etc, their rigidity.

Additionally, the pan head sheetmetal screws that attach steel framing together will cause small lumps in the softer and more flexible 1/2" sheetrock. This is not the case with the firmer 5/8" SR.

BTW - You can just use Tin snips (Aviator snips) to cut steel framing if you do not want to spend the money on a steel cutting saw blade...


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## newbie1234

*help*

Alright, I need help. I havent decided which method to use in framing a wall with my ibeam yet, but how do you frame in a door if i decide to use 2x6's? Also, my height before framing is only 78", do I need to just cut my 80" door to adjust? thanks for any help


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## mangesh.mmi

*Duct Cleaning Melbourne | Duct Repairs Melbourne | Air Duct Services*

Yes check website also www.kamrk.com.au for duct cleaning and duct repair in Melbourne 



AtlanticWBConst. said:


> ....From what I have found out, this is basically an 'urban myth'.
> 
> .... You see, unless you keep your basement at really cold temperatures....you shouldn't have to worry about condensation.
> 
> I've consulted about this very point before with my HVAC contractor (25 years in the biz and he is also a certified system design engineer)
> 
> It's a concern that alot people comment or ask about...
> However, there has to be a difference in the temperature of more than 40 degrees + for condensation to occur.
> So, unless you are cooling your home below 60 degrees and your basement temps are above 100.....
> Or....your heating your home above 75 and your basement is below 35 degrees...
> 
> ...You have nothing to worry about. However, to have peace of mind, you can use densarmor sheetrock around the ductwork.
> 
> link:
> 
> http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pname=DensArmor®+Plus+Interior+Wallboard&pid=4659&hierarchy
> 
> Many of the big home improvement stores are now carrying it at a reasonable price....


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