# Framing A Ceiling After Removing Drop-Ceiling



## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

I decided to convert a patio room a band rehearsal room.

Once I put up some drywall I was left with a real problem and maybe one of you folks knowledgeable in construction can help me.

I removed the drop ceiling to find there are no ceiling joists - instead there is just a metal roof!

Now I am left with a problem because there are no load-bearing beams to support my ceiling. To make things harder, I plan to double drywall the ceiling to help keep noise in as to not bother any neighbors.

I thought using steel track/studs would be the easiest. Basically screwing into the 2x4 studs that exist on the 3 walls (2 connecting to the formal house and 1 connecting to the exterior doored wall) and the partition wall.

The guy at the home improvement store said that my main problem isn't as much strengthening the ceiling studs meeting the tracks, but the problem is more with the center of the ceiling bowing.

Should I build an entirely new frame and drywall over the new frame or do I have an alternative?

Thanks,

Dennis 

PLEASE SEE THE DRAWING ATTACHED


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

You keep saying "ceiling studs", confusing me. If you mean joists, what's the problem spanning 2x6's 10 feet?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not going to do any good sound proofing the ceiling if the walls are not done.
And 2 layers of sheetrock will not do much to stop sound trasmition.
Google "sound proofing" for more info.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

What do you plan on doing out there, if you are afraid that your neighbors are going to be disturbed? I can of course think of quite a few things, and who cares what the neighbors think.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Use acoustic batt insulation between the studs. It is installed in almost the same way as regular insulation by stapling it into place and then cover with drywall.


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

titanoman said:


> You keep saying "ceiling studs", confusing me. If you mean joists, what's the problem spanning 2x6's 10 feet?


No problem except they would have to span 13 feet from the rear wall to the front wall (where the door is). The person at the store said that the middle of the ceiling would bow because the middle of it, say around 6.5 would need extra support. I thought as long as I sister it to the walls it would help with support. He disagreed. Is he wrong?


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Not going to do any good sound proofing the ceiling if the walls are not done.
> And 2 layers of sheetrock will not do much to stop sound trasmition.
> Google "sound proofing" for more info.


I'm using quietrock es all around.


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> What do you plan on doing out there, if you are afraid that your neighbors are going to be disturbed? I can of course think of quite a few things, and who cares what the neighbors think.


There's a bedroom right next door so I have to care.


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

epson said:


> Use acoustic batt insulation between the studs. It is installed in almost the same way as regular insulation by stapling it into place and then cover with drywall.


That would be great but I still need mass on top for better soundproofing. Even just having a good looking ceiling would be better at this point but I really want to have my initial intention realized (drywall ceiling)


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

DennisG said:


> There's a bedroom right next door so I have to care.


Unless you are going to be cranking up music, playing instruments, yelling and screaming out there, just insulate and finish as normal. Let the neighbors worry about their place. If they are upset about the noise from you working on this place, or once it is finished, there are other problems that have been there a lot longer.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The poster wants to use the room to house a band rehearsal---

Must be a well sound proofed structure---


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

oh'mike said:


> The poster wants to use the room to house a band rehearsal---
> 
> Must be a well sound proofed structure---


It would have to be a box inside a box to be totally soundproofed. They are better un renting space, than using a home in a residential area, due to sound travels, regardless what they do.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I agree---I know someone in Chicago that bought an old store front building---Diced it up into rental studios and lived in the second floor---

They did real well with that--very good idea---lots of customers.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Mike, sounds like they did it all properly, permit, etc. 

I suggest you get a permit also, Dennis. The new living space needs a lot of work: the concrete patio slab (no vapor barrier underneath, once enclosed the moisture will effect the instruments, furnishings, drywall, space) built walls on a probably 4" thick perimeter-edged slab, no insulation?, add new wiring?, heat/ventilation? all should be your concerns.

Gary


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

put back the ceiling grid, wrap wires tight at level. and hang drywall from ceiling grid, stuff insulation above as much as possible? but do not pack it in! it needs to be loose to absorb any sound


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

coupe said:


> put back the ceiling grid, wrap wires tight at level. and hang drywall from ceiling grid, stuff insulation above as much as possible? but do not pack it in! it needs to be loose to absorb any sound


The original ceiling grid was held on by some railing on the perimeter and a couple of wires cemented to the roof and would probably weigh a total of 40lbs including the foam panels it had. Tossed it anyway.

From my estimation, it was far to weak to support as much drywall as I want.


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

GBR in WA said:


> Mike, sounds like they did it all properly, permit, etc.
> 
> I suggest you get a permit also, Dennis. The new living space needs a lot of work: the concrete patio slab (no vapor barrier underneath, once enclosed the moisture will effect the instruments, furnishings, drywall, space) built walls on a probably 4" thick perimeter-edged slab, no insulation?, add new wiring?, heat/ventilation? all should be your concerns.
> 
> Gary


There is a permit for the existing structure. I just want to improve the interior. I plan to put carpet in, but that's an entirely different subject.


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> It would have to be a box inside a box to be totally soundproofed. They are better un renting space, than using a home in a residential area, due to sound travels, regardless what they do.


Yes, my original intention was to do a room-inside-a-room, but I think it might either be overkill OR be exactly what needs to happen after all.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

DennisG said:


> The original ceiling grid was held on by some railing on the perimeter and a couple of wires cemented to the roof and would probably weigh a total of 40lbs including the foam panels it had. Tossed it anyway.
> 
> From my estimation, it was far to weak to support as much drywall as I want.


It is done that way in certain constructions. There are quite a few places, that drywall is suspended by rails held with wires. Of course, the wire is heavier gauge, but it is done to stop sound from transmitting. Same with floating floors. There is a lot to learn, if you are going to use this space to do any kind of music practice in, that is a band.

The first thing is, if this was a porch just thrown together, you are going to have to start by pretty much tearing it down to the ground and starting back from the beginning. Just thinking that you are going to put in some electric, slap up some insulation and drywall, is not going to work.

Acoustic proper spaces start from the ground up, and are very involved, so that they do not allow sound to travel. http://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Sound-Proof-Room
http://www.humbuckermusic.com/jul5th20buil.html


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> The poster wants to use the room to house a band rehearsal---
> 
> Must be a well sound proofed structure---


That's right. Not that we will be cranking like crazy, but if need be I want to help neutralize those issues by building a proper structure considering soundproofing while I have the chance to do so.


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## DennisG (Jan 15, 2012)

The walls aren't an issue. Building a new ceiling strong enough to support drywall is. Check out my drawing to see if putting railing on the 2x4s is enough to support such a heavy ceiling?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

DennisG said:


> The walls aren't an issue. Building a new ceiling strong enough to support drywall is. Check out my drawing to see if putting railing on the 2x4s is enough to support such a heavy ceiling?


It is not going to happen, until you tear down everything, especially if you are stating that it was framed like a kid's tree house, or a Chicken shed.


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## annie wilson (Feb 25, 2012)

If you have tray ceilings in your room, you can add picture frame moulding around the light fixture and install wallpapers and thanks for sharing about it. I learnt so many things here.


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