# 2x6 strength? How much weight will a truss in my garage hold?



## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)

http://www.toronto-subaru-club.com/...d-faq/138648-diy-engine-hoist-for-garage.html


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## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

Trusses are generally not designed to have that type of loading placed on them. There are some "attic" trusses out there that have load ratings for floors. Standard style trusses in no way are rated for that though. You would need to contact the truss manufacturer to determine the load rating.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

work.truck said:


> I want to build an engine hoist in my garage. I found a post on a website and it is exactly what i want to do. Please check it out.
> 
> (Sorry this is my first post site will not let my post a URL.... so i posted it in the first comment below)
> 
> ...


Ayuh,.... Instead of grabbin' 3 2x6s, 6' apart, sister the one 2x6 ya need to lift from,...

3, 2x6s should be able to carry the load yer lookin' at,...
Sistered, not 6' apart though,....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

funny Q, i had done same thing like ~25yrs ago.

mom and dad's garage when i was monkey wrenching some cars i had. i had a 5ft length of 1/4" thick 6x6 steel angle. i just put that across the joists (it reached two) and i hung my chain hoist from the steel. lifted v8's countless times....

mine were not truss though, just typical framing.

truss has things to worry about, like how then ends are together and how the ends are supported.

how much a 2x6 can take is a Q we cant answer, you have to look at the charts knowing what lumber you have..... truss construction also plays bi role, etc

see http://www.southernpine.com/media/SPtable15_060113.pdf
http://www.southernpine.com/media/TABLE01_L.pdf
a truss however puts some roof loads into the joist of the truss, etc.


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## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)

Ok i ask the question wrong I have rafters not trusses I really don't know if it makes a difference


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

theres a big diff.

the joists will want to bend per their modulus.

800lb on say 3 of them = ~266lb each = not that much

maybe just go buy 3 2x6 x8', construction glue and nail (sister) them to the 3 joists you want to use, hoist to be placed in center of it all.

then, get a piece of 3/4" ply 4'x4', place that on top center.

get one more 2x6 and cut that in half, glue and nail tack them together, lay that flat over the plywood centered, get a 6x6x1/4" steel plate with hole in center to accept a graded 3/4" eyelet, drill 3/4" hole in the 2x6 laying flat, put eyelet up from bottom, put washer and nut onto eyelet shank on top of steel plate.

i would also add a few (6) cats between the joists, including the next one over from each end of the ones you just sistered. 

have at it.


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## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)

Thanks everybody for the responses... I was thinking I would double up two of the 2 X 6 X 12 rafters.....and then lift from the space in between those two rafters. Still make the piece of steel I'm lifting from span across 4 rafters / 3 spaces .... so my piece of steel is on top and across 4 rafters and the 2 in the center our doubled up. it's kind of hard to explain but I hope that makes sense. I figure this will hold the weight no problem and if anything it's overkill


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Overkill is good. You'll thank yourself when an engine doesn't fall on your head.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

work.truck said:


> Thanks everybody for the responses... I was thinking I would double up two of the 2 X 6 X 12 rafters.....and then lift from the space in between those two rafters. Still make the piece of steel I'm lifting from span across 4 rafters / 3 spaces .... so my piece of steel is on top and across 4 rafters and the 2 in the center our doubled up. it's kind of hard to explain but I hope that makes sense. I figure this will hold the weight no problem and if anything it's overkill


everything said (including my 2 cents) doesnt mean much unless you know what the wood is, etc. although most lumber used should be similar in specs....

you could do experimental testing, hang on one joist and have someone measure from joist to floor before you hang on it and while you hang on it. that's your deflection per your weight, divide it out to get per lb, etc. measure to nearest 1/32-1/16", etc.

now you now per lb per joist in the location your engine will hang from. just make sure the deflection is less than max allowed, etc.

what you dont want is the joists doing a crazy bend in horizontal, this is the weak side of joist, etc. use some cats in there.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

work.truck said:


> Thanks everybody for the responses... I was thinking* I would double up two of the 2 X 6 X 12 rafters.....and then lift from the space in between those two rafters. *Still make the piece of steel I'm lifting from span across 4 rafters / 3 spaces .... so my piece of steel is on top and across 4 rafters and the 2 in the center our doubled up. it's kind of hard to explain but I hope that makes sense. I figure this will hold the weight no problem and if anything it's overkill


Ayuh,..... A couple short 2x6s from rafter to rafter will really stabilze yer liftin' area,....
It'll take any twist forces away from the long sistered 2x6s,.....


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## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,..... A couple short 2x6s from rafter to rafter will really stabilze yer liftin' area,....
> It'll take any twist forces away from the long sistered 2x6s,.....



definitely good thinking I can put them on either side of the steel total of 6


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## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)




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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

You have trusses.....


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## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)

no I have rafters I asked a question wrong.... but I just posted that pic to show that a doubled up 2x6 (looks to be 12 feet long) can hold the weight of a V8 engine. So if i go with the two doubled up 2x6s and span across four rafters (total of six 2x6s) i am more then good


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## cubby88 (Jan 20, 2015)

I have the same size garage, I would recommend using a 6×6 or a 4×4 treated. And run toggle bolts to connect.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

that vertical connector is also supporting weight, which is trying to splay the end walls out. its a truss.



cubby88 said:


> I have the same size garage, I would recommend using a 6×6 or a 4×4 treated. And run toggle bolts to connect.


toggle bolts??? did you mean carriage bolts?


work.truck said:


>


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## work.truck (Jan 19, 2015)

I was gunna just use some 3 inch lag bolts to sister/double u the to 2x6 rafters


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## cubby88 (Jan 20, 2015)

Can you get a 6×6×12' long, and strap it down on both sides of the 8' block that is your foundations support for your middle brace, which should be at least 4 2×6s. If not, you can get 2 2×6s and toggle bolt them together. But if your garage doesn't have the 8'' blocks on both sides of the garage you could get 2 4×4 or 6x6 cut to proper height, and those should be plenty for your pulling weight.


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## cubby88 (Jan 20, 2015)

Make sure the wood you choose is treated as the cheap untreated won't hold as much as treated. I have a wood shop in my garage and my garage also has the 2×6s, but the middle of the garage is 4 2x6's connected with Lag bolts. Good luck bud.


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## cubby88 (Jan 20, 2015)

Yeah carriage bolts


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

work.truck said:


> I was gunna just use some 3 inch lag bolts to sister/double u the to 2x6 rafters


should be fine. pre-drill correct pilot hole though.

carriage would be preferred. some construction adhesive and a bolt every 24" should suffice.


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## cubby88 (Jan 20, 2015)

Yeah your right, but I always stagger the carriage and Lag's a 12'


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## cubby88 (Jan 20, 2015)

On sealing 2 2×12's, I put my bead. Of professional wood adhesive the whole outer edge of the 2 pieces of 2×12 nail gun 3.5" nails and stagger the nails on both sides then use the same staggering with your Lag's.


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