# Float switch install instructions needed



## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

the wiring diagram is right on it. Better than a float switch. You wire it breaking Y to the outdoor unit.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

hvactech126 said:


> the wiring diagram is right on it. Better than a float switch. You wire it breaking Y to the outdoor unit.


Johnstone Supply catalog shows those at 90 bucks a piece? Really?

Johnstone Supply also has $20 list float switches as well....

Whats the street price on the Wet Switch? 35 bucks?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow. 

What we normally do is break the condenser (wire) which will be the stat wire attached to the copper line set leading to the condenser from the furnace/air handler. Tunr the power off to the furnace by the breaker or switch if you have one, not just stat off. You do not want to blow fuses and yes, 24 volts hurts too.

Locate one of the two wires to the condenser, either the red or the white. Red and white are most commony used but they could be any color and usually there are only two wires to the condenser. If heat pump or communicating then you need to let us know.

Break one of the two wires to the condenser as in cut it open and wire nut the one line from one of the float switches to one side (small orange or blue or gray wire nut) and wire nut the other side from the other float switch to the other. Since the float switches are are already tied together in series, the current is now going through both so if one fails (trips), either one of them, the condenser low voltage breaks which means no more refrigerant can flow so no more condensate water can be produced. If ever your system is set to cool but is blowing not cool air but just fan air and your condenser is not operating then your float switch possibly has tripped and you need to check them. Why we install switches as well as to protect from possible water damage.

Turn your breaker back on and enjoy your now more "protected" system.

Please send $90.99 to Sir Preston Aire, Internet Float Switch Diagnostic Solutions, Houston Texas, I am Your Hvac Daddy Forever and Ever Amen, 90210. 

Of course you could break the actual power to the system but then you wouldn't have any air, not just not cool air.


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

This costs more because it not a piece of foam on a hanger attached to a micro switch. It is a sensitive precise instrument. It operates by sensing a very shallow amount of water VS. the pan having to fill up in order for the float switch to trip. Will Johnstones sell to you? I don't have a price for these for you; call the supply house and find out.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

noone said:


> Johnstone Supply catalog shows those at 90 bucks a piece? Really?
> 
> *Johnstone Supply also has $20 list float switches* as well....
> 
> Whats the street price on the Wet Switch? 35 bucks?


No wonder I don't ever purchase anything from Johnstones. I pay less than half of that.


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

Doc Holliday said:


> No wonder I don't ever purchase anything from Johnstones. I pay less than half of that.


You must understand that is retail pricing in the book.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow.
> 
> What we normally do is break the condenser (wire) which will be the stat wire attached to the copper line set leading to the condenser from the furnace/air handler. Tunr the power off to the furnace by the breaker or switch if you have one, not just stat off. You do not want to blow fuses and yes, 24 volts hurts too.
> 
> ...


What about connecting it to the thermostat hot?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Oh, I just got where you said two systems so I'm guessing one drain pan float switch for each unit. In that case you do not need to tie them together, just break one condenser wire from each system and tie one float switch into one side each of the broken condenser wire.

Just snip one wire and tie through, one of the wires from the float switch to one side of cut wire and the other end of the float switch wire to the other side of cut wire to make the circuit again and you're done.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow.
> 
> What we normally do is break the condenser (wire) which will be the stat wire attached to the copper line set leading to the condenser from the furnace/air handler. Tunr the power off to the furnace by the breaker or switch if you have one, not just stat off. You do not want to blow fuses and yes, 24 volts hurts too.
> 
> ...


I want to install one switch per unit. There are two air handlers in the closet upstairs.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> Oh, I just got where you said two systems so I'm guessing one drain pan float switch for each unit. In that case you do not need to tie them together, just break one condenser wire from each system and tie one float switch into one side each of the broken condenser wire.
> 
> Just snip one wire and tie through, one of the wires from the float switch to one side of cut wire and the other end of the float switch wire to the other side of cut wire to make the circuit again and you're done.


ha! too funny... ^^^^


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

> If you are installing two switches, wire nut one wire from each of the switches together so the current will run through both switches which are normally closed so current can flow.


He has 2 units, so he shouldn't be wiring them up together.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The wet switch is well worth its money.


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## mrairflow (Oct 25, 2009)

I usually break the red wire to the thermostat with the float switch


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

mrairflow said:


> I usually break the red wire to the thermostat with the float switch


Ok, so do I break open this brown sheath and will there be a red wire inside one of these brown sheaths? How can I tell which wire is the thermostat?


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

How can I confirm which wire is the thermostat power wire?

Thanks again.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

noone said:


> How can I confirm which wire is the thermostat power wire?
> 
> Thanks again.


There will be two sets of control wires at the furnace, wrapped in a brown sheath. The one set not attached to the line set and with more wires in it's sheath (at least 4 wires) will be the main power. Whichever wire of those 4 wires that is attached to the R terminal on the control board will be the main power to the stat.

The low voltage wires to the condenser will usually only consist of 2 wires and will follow the lineset to the condenser. 

I'd break the condenser wires myself as that way you still have air (not cold air) in the case of a tripped float switch and heat but either way will let you know that you have a problem.


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