# Patio Cover Roof Underside



## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

Vinyl soffitt material that is ventilated. Not wood-like, but likely cheaper and easier to install and maintain.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

This would not be cheaper, but since the size is not too dramatic, it should not break the bank either. I would prefer the look and dimensional stability of Car-siding lumber, which is tongue and groove for a no seam appearance and can also be cosmetically stained for a more aesthetic appearance.

Ed


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## Jeoroc24 (Mar 2, 2010)

Ed,

I've decided to go the t&g route since the price difference is not significant. What's the best way to attach the t&g boards to the top of the rafters? They will be sandwiched between the rafters and the plywood sheathing. The rafters are 2x6 and spaced 22.5" o.c.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Oops!!!!!!!!!!!! Wrong advice given for lack of attention!


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Jeoroc24 said:


> Ed,
> 
> I've decided to go the t&g route since the price difference is not significant. What's the best way to attach the t&g boards to the top of the rafters? They will be sandwiched between the rafters and the plywood sheathing. The rafters are 2x6 and spaced 22.5" o.c.


You "Toe-Nail" the Tongue portion of the siding, which gets installed perpendicular to the direction of the rafters. I think about 12" On Center with a framing or trim nailer should be sufficient, but it is best to check with the manufacturers recommendations and also for sizing and spacing of the fasteners.

You will be very pleased with the final appearance.

Ed


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Thanks Ed. I misunderstood his selection and thought he was still using T-111 for some reason. 
Nail pattern won't matter since it's under the plywood. It can be face nailed since the nails will be covered by the plywood, of nailed in the tongue.

TIP: Take regular measurements for the side you are working towards! Jocky the T&G as needed to stay straight. Failure to do so can leave you with a full board at one end, or even the middle, and only a piece of board, or even needing a filler strip elsewhere!


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

BTW, you never mentioned what particular T&G you're using, nor the dimensions. Beaded 3-1/4"? 6"? 8"? 
2 nails for 3-1/4" to 6" if face nailing, more if wider, but don't nail the outer edges until the next piece is aligned. Making it too tight can make you cause damage when driving each piece into place.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

tinner666 said:


> *BTW, you never mentioned what particular T&G you're using*, nor the dimensions. Beaded 3-1/4"? 6"? 8"?
> 2 nails for 3-1/4" to 6" if face nailing, more if wider, but don't nail the outer edges until the next piece is aligned. Making it too tight can make you cause damage when driving each piece into place.


It's called Car Siding.

I remodeled my apartment ceiling with it, purchased from Menards, then stained it with a Gun-stock finish.

http://www.menards.com/main/paint/p...or-car-siding-clear-coat/p-1476282-c-8185.htm

Ed


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## Jeoroc24 (Mar 2, 2010)

I will likely be using 1x6 T&G pine or cypress boards unless I can find the car-siding material Ed was referring to at my local lumber yard. Toe-nailing doesn't make sense to me in this application since the plywood is going directly on top of the T&G boards. I think face nailing will work.

I was wondering what size nail I should use.The plans call for 8d nails for the plywood. Would this work for the T&G boards as well?

Thanks.


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## Jeoroc24 (Mar 2, 2010)

Bump. No answer?


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