# Screws, at times, won't go all the way through



## concretemasonry

Wood is not as uniform as everyone thinks. - Differences in moisture, density, residual sap, grain orientation, etc.).

I don't think you or the screws and nails are any different.


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## Ron The Plumber

THat way I use a impact driver, drilling 3" screws are a breeze.


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## redline

Are you hanging drywall with the 2 1/2 screws? (Use shorter screws):huh: 

If you need to use 2 1/2 screws then try to screw it in half way. Back out the screw and then screw it back in. This is a shorter method then drilling a pilot hole.:huh: 

You could also try rubbing the screw threads with a bar of soap before you install them. This will lubricate the threads and reduce the resistance.:huh:


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## yummy mummy

*redline*

No, I am not yet hanging drywall.

I am still at the framing stage.

Will try your suggestion, but I think I will have to end up drilling a hole.

Thanks


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## yummy mummy

*ron the plumber*

What is an impact driver?


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## Big Dave

Sounds like you might be using a fine thread screw instead of a course thread screw. I've had trouble with fine thread screws not going in all the way and stripping out.


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## yummy mummy

*big dave*

I think I am using a fine thread screw.
Those were the ones that they gave me when I asked them for what purpose they were for.

I am going to try some other ones, and see if that works.

Today, I tried drilling a pilot hole and that worked really nice.
But rather time comsuming.

Thanks for the tip, big dave.


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## yummy mummy

*big dave*

I just took a look at your web site, big dave, and your work is amazing.
Very nice.

Love your floors, and countertops.


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## Ron The Plumber

yummy mummy said:


> What is an impact driver?


Do a google search for impact driver.


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## yummy mummy

*ron the plumber*

I just looked impact driver up, and seems like a great tool, but probably too expensive for a newbie like me.


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## Ron The Plumber

yummy mummy said:


> I just looked impact driver up, and seems like a great tool, but probably too expensive for a newbie like me.


If you ever get the chance use an impact driver, you will sure love it.


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## yummy mummy

*ron the plumber*

I bet I need a lot of strength for it, correct?


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## Ron The Plumber

Not at all, you can run screws running the driver with one hand, very little pressure need applied.


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## yummy mummy

*ron the plumber*

If I tell my husband that I want another tool, he is going to have a fit.

He says I don't need anymore fancy tools, because I don't have a time limit.

(Actually, my aunt felt sorry for me, when she found out I was cutting 2X4s with a hand saw, and bought me an early Christmas gift of a mitre saw.
I absolutely love it. I have never used one before.


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## troubleseeker

Use spruce lumber, it nails much easier, plus it is usually straighter than most pine. Be carefull about screwing framing together with drywall screws. They do not have the sheer strength to meet code, and some inspectors will refuse them.


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## yummy mummy

*troubleseeker*

I am using spruce wood for my framing, and I am not using drywall screws, I am using wood screws, at least that is what they told me when I asked them as HD.


What I have tried is to unscrew a little and then try again, seems to help.

I am going to see if I can find screws with a bigger thread.

Also, what really works great is drilling a hole first.
(It just takes a little longer, but I guess I am in no hurry)


Thanks


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## HarryHarley

Gee, if you were my wife, you'd be so easy to shop for, for Christmas.:laughing:


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## yummy mummy

*harryharley*

You can always pretend, and you can buy me the tools. :laughing:


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## redline

I believe that they sell a combination pilot drill and screw driver bit.

The pilot drill slides over the screw driver bit. You drill the pilot hole and then just slide off the pilot drill and use the screw driver.

This should save you some time in having to unchuck the drill and screw driver bit.


:thumbup:


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## yummy mummy

*redline*

Thanks.
I'll see what I can possibly do.
But I seem to be having success with just drilling a hole and then putting the screw in.

I am going to try screws that have a bigger thread, and see if that works.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

troubleseeker said:


> Use spruce lumber, it nails much easier, plus it is usually straighter than most pine. Be carefull about screwing framing together with drywall screws. They do not have the sheer strength to meet code, and some inspectors will refuse them.


Just to clarify: There are no requirements for 'sheer strength' in non-loadbearing, partition walls of a basement....


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## sjrhome

Take no offense to this, but I think what you are lacking here is strength. It takes alot of "pushing" strength on the gun to drive screws of that length into lumber. I think everyones suggestions are right on though. The pre drilling is the easiest way to go, but as you said its time consuming. I always lay a metal track on the groung as my bottom plate. Then instead of toe screwing with long screws, you can just lay the 2x4 in the track and face screw it with 1 1/4" screws..much easier to lay out and screw together.


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