# Repairing Caradco Windows



## Michael2009

Tom - I'm also having the same problem with 15 yr old caradco double hung windows. Water is getting into the aluminum clad resulting in wood rot. I'm thinking about replacing sashes from Jeld Wen but I'm not sure that's the best way to go.


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## Tom Y.

Michael, I have now replaced 5 sashes and 3 wood rails. All others so far ( about half done) I have just sanded and stained and polyurethane. My windows are casement and felt the moisture was from the inside of the home more than the outside. During very cold weather ( Northern Indiana) I will get moisture collecting along the bottom of the window and felt the wood was not sealed properly and that is how the wood rot was happening, ( I will find out this winter). I also have found the bottom seal on the rail missing on a lot off the windows and have started replacing those with new seal from Jeld-Wen. This may have let more cold air and wind find its way thru the bottom. The new seal looks to be a better seal design than the original. 

All this still does not explain the moisture between the window panes? I do see the new sashes look to have a different sealing and now have a one piece aluminum frame and was told they now carry a 25 year warranty on them. 

When all is said and done I will have maybe $2000 ( and a lot of work) in fixing the windows which is maybe less than 10% of replacement with new. 

Michael, I will like to hear how and what you do with your windows.


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## Tom Y.

*update*

I have another window to replace. Also when I called Jeld Wen I was informed that they will no longer sell any of the window parts other than the sash.


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## detailedEye

If you have moisture between the panes of an insulated window it indicates the seal(s) around the glass have let go and air is leaking out/in. 

My house was built in '72 and I have several Caradco casement windows like this that I plan to replace. Given the age of the house some of them are still in pretty good shape, but I think the price of a new sash would be pretty close to a new window...if I could even find a sash.


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## Tom Y.

Jeld Wen will still sell you the sash for the Caradco windows. Another thing is it seems the only windows that have the seal problem are the ones that get direct sunlight. So the heat over the years must make the seal fail. Jeld Wen does now have a 20 or 25 year warranty on the new sash.


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## detailedEye

Thanks for the info on the sashes, but besides the sashes my windows are a bit drafty because of the design. There is a break in the weatherstripping at the sash lock because the lock is inset into the side stop. Also, the weatherstripping on the bottom of the window is on the upper part of the sash stop (above the crank). This allows air that gets past the outer copper weatherstrip (on the sash) in around the handle crank and, up until last fall, under the wood stop itself. I caulked the stop to the sill and around the crank on the outside last fall. This made a big difference in draft over the winter. But the windows remain an inefficient design by today's standards. Rather unfortunate since the frames are 1" solid pine, but I'll either resell them (great for a fish house) or save the wood.


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## JohnT

I have 44 Caradco windows and have begun the process of reworking them as well. This is a duplex in Bangor Maine built in 1992 so these windows are 18 years old. Excessive condensations appears to be the culprit but possibly the PPG issue someone mentioned. I have had the worst windows out and had a good look. I only saw some black mildew / mold behind one aluminum sleeve, not the others.

At this point I am completely disassembling, stripping, and bleaching. I am rotating the frames 180 and pre-drilling new pilot holes for the hardware - this will move the weaker wood to the top, and the hardware will be going into different wood. I am using yellow zinc plated screws --> #8 - 1" and 1 1/2". Looks like I will remain clear of the glass. the screw that came out are 7/8" and close to 1 1/2".

The paint I am using is a alkyd primer and enamel paint with an anti-mold additive added to it. from Benjamin Moore. These were recommended by the store and they seem appropriate.

It never crossed my mind to use a polyurethane and that makes a lot of sense. What exactly are you using? Also, are you thinking of getting rid of the aluminum? I am losing parts of mine during the removal process due to bending it too many times.

ALSO - I have lost some weatherstripping (the grey plastic) when removing it. What are you doing about that?

Thanks -

John


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## diy'er on LI

Wow..... I thought we were the only ones! The original windows of our home (built in '75) were all caradco. Some windows began failing within 2-3 years (leaks/ condensation between glass panes)! Generally, the casement windows failed much earlier than the double hung. 
Unfortunately, we have a lot of windows, and are still in the process of replacing some of the originals. With every new anderson window, our home gets a little bit warmer in the winter... 

Years ago, we tried by ourselves, and later hired a pro to repair the windows. It really ended up being only cosmetic. We never managed to improve the draftiness, condensation, or leaks. We always found the frames of the windows to be irreparably drafty.....

On the flipside, I also don't recall doing anything as drastic as you describe..... Good luck!


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## JohnT

I have resigned myself to the fact that I have to do it. I managed to speak to the manager of warrantees at Jeld-Wen and all he can do is sell me parts at a discount. My casements are the worst because they are tall, and the droplets that form are more numerous and get big as they roll down the window. My other big problem is the skylight windows. They have the toughest conditions as humid air being less dense rises. A lot of the winter if it is really cold out or we cook a big meal in the kitchen, these are dripping. Jeld-Wen has triple pane glass available and I think I am going to try it. Here are some photos:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=44016&id=1320822168&l=660c7265b8


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## Tom Struble

windows only last so long,they are not ''simple'' like they were years ago

seems roofing, siding,windows and doors have about the same life span


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## EIUGAR

Four years ago I disassembled ALL my caradco windows. Sanded, re-stained and coated with spar urethane. Had the same problem with peeling on the sash - especially where the window locks. Took the window down a second time, disassembled and re-sanded. This time I matched high grade out-door Sherman Willams paint to the trim stain. The color is incredibility close to the trim and the sashes look great.


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## JRM993

*Caradco Window Replacements?*

I also have a house full of rotting Caradco windows from the nineties. Has anyone actually gone with the Jeld Wen offering of replacement sashes at a forty percent discount? Wondering if this is something to consider or is it just throwing good money after bad? Any advice would be greatly appreciated? Have to make a decision on what to do with these windows? Use the Jeld Wen sash offerings? Go with another brand? Use new construction windows? Use a replacement window? What brands?


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## dd57chevy

This is really your call . Too many variables . The first two questions that come to mind are :

1.Replacing sashes is relatively easy . Are the rest of the window componants (sill , hardware , balances , seals) in good shape ?

2. Could you install new windows _properly ?_


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## Colbyt

This is a really old thread with a new question.

The Caradco windows windows weren't all that great when new. No modern window made from cheap second growth timber is going to last very long when painted with acrylic paint.

If I had them I would bite the bullet and change them out for vinyl. It probably won't last all that long either but you don't have to glaze, paint or screw around with for at least 20 years.

For those who might have windows in usable shape, IGU glass units can come from anywhere. As long as the proper thickness and the correct size is ordered the unit will work. Call a local glass company.


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