# 95 jeep grand cherokee no start



## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

I have a 95 jeep grand cherokee 4.0, before this i had to jump it twice, once before i replaced my 6 month old battery and once with my week old battery and my tachometer and speedometer would tweak when im driving, ive replaced starter, distributor, cap, rotor, ignition coil, crank sensor, tested the MAP sensor, battery is a week old, put it to top dead center and lined up my rotor, i hace spark all the way through and out the spark plug wires, faily new fuel pump and its getting fuel, but all it does is crank but it will not start, im stumped, lost and confused on whats going on, any info will be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Do you have a timing light? If so, hook it up. 

If it flashes....your issue is fuel.

No flash? Troubleshoot the ignition.

The good news is, the electronic fuel injection on the 95 is a solid design. The most common issues is with the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). You have changed that...but, if you didn't use an OEM part....well...crap shoot.


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

No timing light, but put piston one at top dead center and lined up rotor to spark plug to one on the cap, nothing, went one tooth retard and one tooth advanced, nothing, i know im getting fuel up to the rail, and i know it ainy a fuel problen cuz we sprayed ether in and still wouldnt start, me and my dad are gonna check out the ignition system tomorrow along with the IAC to see if any of that is bad


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Don't worry about the IAC....that is fuel....you need spark.

If I may suggest.....this is the best Cherokee forum to be search....

http://www.naxja.org


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

Thats the thing, i have spark all the way through, i also have fuel and all that and still not starting, but ill check that forum out, thatnk you


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

What is your fuel pressure? 31lbs at idle, 39lbs with vacuum line removed from fuel pressure regulator. I'm sure your compression is good. But I would check it. IAC could keep it from starting by introducing more air that needed. Crank it and tap on IAC but don't beat on it but a good tap with wrench or hammer. If it starts then yep. IACs were real bad on Jeeps and Fords for no start.:vs_cool:


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

I dont have a ways to test the pressure of the fuel, but the way we tested to know we are getting fuel is i pulled the fuel line off and turnes it over and i sprayed ether into the intake and it still wouldbt start, but ill check the iac today, thank you


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I don't think you are getting spark. Ether in the intake and not even one plug fire? 

You really need that timing light.


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

Thats why both me and my dad are confused and stumped, spark, fuel and air is good, put it to top dead center and lined up the distributor and just turns over, and my dad is bringing one home that hes gonna borrow from his coworker, so ill find out when he gets home, im beyound confused


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

What makes you think you are getting spark?


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

Me and my dad put a screwdriver into the coil plug and layed it next to a bolt and it sparked to were you can see it during the sunshining directly onto us, and likewise with 3 out of the 6 spark plug wires, we also checked compression and that turned out good to


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ok....you have spark. Now, is that spark at the right time? 

Any chance you pulled the dist and when you put it back in you got it 180 deg off?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Can you get codes? When you turn key on does check engine light come on? Can you see PCM (Power Control Module, also called ECM, Engine Control Module) info with a scanner? PCM might have crapped out since you went through 2 batteries and your instruments were twitching. All you have to do is hook up jump cables/batteries wrong and ZAP! Hook up Negative last. Unhook Negative first. Same with batteries. Check grounds. Should be 1 from bat to engine, the big one. 1 from bat to body and body to engine which is generally on the back of the engine. But getting info from PCM is critical now. You pretty have hit most the basics.:vs_cool:


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

I did it 180 degree and in where its suppose to go, still nothing, and from what my dad has seen with the spark when i turned it over, its sparking at the right time


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

And i checked all the grounds, they are a good, the bat gound was a little lose and i tightened that up and it started cranking over faster but still dont start


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## LP560 (Jan 23, 2017)

Have you checked the O2 censor ?


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

Im checking the ignition switch right now, but how do you check the o2 sensor to see if its good or bad, ive looked all over google and i couldnt find anything


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

The O2 sensor will NOT stop it from starting and running. If the O2 is bad, it just goes into limp mode and throws a code/turns on the CEL.

Lets get to basics. 

The 4.0 is a beast. Great engine. The FI setup on that year is a very stable system and didn't really change until after 95 when they went to OBDII. Even then, the OBDII didn't change much on the engine.

So....you have a dist....a coil. The Ignition firing is determined by the CPS. If the coil, dist and TPS are working....it will fire the plugs.

An easy way to see if you have proper fuel pressure, hit the Schroeder valve. It it has the proper pressure, you will get a good squirt of fuel. But if it just 'burps', then you have a fuel pressure issue.

Spraying Ether into the intake while cranking should give a start assuming you have a spark.

Testing the plug like you did it not exactly the most reliable method. One reason, it's easy to get a spark outside of the engine...but put it under 150 PSI....takes a bit more 'umph'. There should be a resistor on the finder under the hood....12Vdc goes to it. It feeds the hot side of your coil. During cranking you should see 12Vdc on the coil. During normal running, it drops to about 8 Vdc. The 12Vdc for crank comes off the starter relay.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

On a 95 Jeep, it stays at battery voltage at the coil. It should fire about an inch or so. 12 volt test light works good for this.:vs_cool:


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

Can this, for the abs keep it from starting, which i dont think it will, but my abs light was on the night before


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Bravo63zj said:


> Can this, for the abs keep it from starting, which i dont think it will, but my abs light was on the night before


No.

Stop trying to shotgun the solution. 

Get back to basics


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

ddawg16 said:


> No.
> 
> Stop trying to shotgun the solution.
> 
> Get back to basics


He's right. ABS has nothing to do with engine operation. If you start throwing parts at it, it will cost a LOT MORE that if you diagnose it. I've had customers do that and they created 2 problems as they replaced a good part with a faulty part. Check for fire. It should spark about an inch or so. Check for fuel pressure. Check for fuel volume. Check for fuel quality. Check compression. It has to be at least 85lbs before it will fire. Should be around 150lbs or so. Check for injector pulse. Check for engine computer operation. Is theft light on or flashing? BCM. Lock and unlock the door with key fob or key to reset anti-theft system. Check fuses. All of them.:vs_cool:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

Basics

Spark
Fuel

I have had issues with weak coils on Jeeps that wouldn't fire off the motor when under load. That was on distributor equip cars and once you manually discharged the coil via a close ground, it would fire up.


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## Bravo63zj (Jan 23, 2017)

Wasnt trying to shotgun the solution, ive gone through the basics everyday since it wouldnt start, ive replaced starter, distrubitor, cap, rotor, and coil, and its got a week old battery, i was testing the ignition today, when i have it plugged into the igition switch, turn the key to on position and used my power probe to give the wire power, the voltage started at 10 volts and it died out, hooked up a battery charger and it did the same thing, i unplugged it and put power to the ignition wire (yellow one on the far right as your looking at the plug) and gave it power from my power probe, it turned over and it backfired and it stayed at 10 volts while i was turning it over, but the only time it backfired was when i turned the distributor 180 out to nake sure it was tdc and it didnt jumped time, i didnt think my abs would keep it from starting, it was just a thought cuz im looking into everything i can to figure this out, cuz i have spark, fuel and air


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

What is the engine computer saying?:vs_mad:


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Bravo63zj said:


> Wasnt trying to shotgun the solution, ive gone through the basics everyday since it wouldnt start, ive replaced starter, distrubitor, cap, rotor, and coil, and its got a week old battery, i was testing the ignition today, when i have it plugged into the igition switch, turn the key to on position and used my power probe to give the wire power, the voltage started at 10 volts and it died out, hooked up a battery charger and it did the same thing, i unplugged it and put power to the ignition wire (yellow one on the far right as your looking at the plug) and gave it power from my power probe, it turned over and it backfired and it stayed at 10 volts while i was turning it over, but the only time it backfired was when i turned the distributor 180 out to nake sure it was tdc and it didnt jumped time, i didnt think my abs would keep it from starting, it was just a thought cuz im looking into everything i can to figure this out, cuz i have spark, fuel and air


Sounds like you have had the dist out a few times already. Your dist timing is hosed.

And I think you have a voltage issue going to the coil. Have you checked the starter relay? It's mounted on the fender. During cranking it applies a full 12v to the coil for more spark.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I looked at the wiring diagrams and 12 volts to coil at all times. Electronic ignition system. What your describing is for older vehicles.:vs_cool:


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Brainbucket said:


> I looked at the wiring diagrams and 12 volts to coil at all times. Electronic ignition system. What your describing is for older vehicles.:vs_cool:


I had an 89 Cherokee....it had the resistor....


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

ddawg16 said:


> I had an 89 Cherokee....it had the resistor....


Yes. An 89 would. 95 doesn't. They were morphin over to electronic before OBD2 was implemented in 96.:vs_cool:


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