# Termite Damaged Sill Plate



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

the brick veneer should be sitting on its own brick ledge
you should be able to lift the wall slightly to remove
and replace the bad wood.You should use treated
lumber if its in contact with concrete


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

As stated, the brick veneer is supporting itself, on it's own ledge. 

Unless the wall has sunk down, there is no need to "Lift" it.

The repair would be performed by supporting the overhead joists at the location, during the work. Then opening up the wall area (if sheetrocked), and cutting that rotted section away from the studs, and taking it out cleanly. As already suggested, the section should be replaced with Pressure Treated stock. Just make sure that you:

1. Use Galvanized/Stainless fasteners.
2. Cutt away any sheathing nails.
3. Re-bolt the plate to the foundation/slab. This can be done by making a "U" shaped cut-out, in order to slide the plate into place.


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## cary00silve (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm not sure how I can lift the wall at the header because a section of the bad sill plate is under a window in the garage. This window has a section of 2X12 framed above it to displace the load. Would it be possible to screw a length of 2x12 to the face of the studs and put the jacks under that to hold the wall up while I replace the sill plate? I could get about 30 screws into the 5 studs I would be supporting.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

cary00silve said:


> I'm not sure how I can lift the wall at the header because a section of the bad sill plate is under a window in the garage...


You do not need to lift the wall, unless it has sunken down due to the rot. Chances are that you simply just have to support the weight on the joists. or rafters, that sit on that 8' section of the wall, while you perform your repairs.



cary00silve said:


> This window has a section of 2X12 framed above it to displace the load. Would it be possible to screw a length of 2x12 to the face of the studs and put the jacks under that to hold the wall up while I replace the sill plate? I could get about 30 screws into the 5 studs I would be supporting.


It may work.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> Would it be possible to screw a length of 2x12 to the face of the studs and put the jacks under that to hold the wall up while I replace the sill plate? I could get about 30 screws into the 5 studs I would be supporting.


Ayuh,... Yes, if it's necessary to lift it...


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## cary00silve (Jan 5, 2009)

I know I won't be lifting it. I just used poor terminology. The sill plate is still supporting the load, so I only need to support the load while removing the sill plate. This sill plate is on an exterior wall in the garage which runs parallel to the roof joists. That's why it's difficult coming up with a way to support the studs while removing the sill plate. The only thing I could think of was to attach a 2x12 to the face of the studs and used hydraulic bottle jacks under that to support the load. Should 30 3" deck screws be strong enough to support the load on those studs? Thanks for all of the help. I plan on attempting this on Saturday. If anyone has any other suggestions on how to support the load please let me know!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

what your trying to support is not the wall but whatevers over it


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## cary00silve (Jan 5, 2009)

I understand that, but I just can't seem to think of another way to support that load. I know the studs are currently supporting that load and are more than capable. The only thing I worry about is the screws having the shear strength to support that load. I would much rather use poles to support the header, but as stated there is a window over one end of the bad sill plate and I am not able to access the header. My plan is to span the bad section of sill plate (+1 stud on either side) with a 2x12, and to use hydraulic bottle jacks on each end so that I can remove and replace the 8ft section of bad sill in one piece.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

build a temporary wall 2 or 3 ft in from the widow to support the floor or ceiling joist above


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> build a temporary wall 2 or 3 ft in from the widow to support the floor or ceiling joist above


This is the standard method for repairing such areas = Simple.


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## cary00silve (Jan 5, 2009)

[email protected] said:


> build a temporary wall 2 or 3 ft in from the widow to support the floor or ceiling joist above


I can understand that working if the ceiling joists were running perpendicular to the wall, but they aren't. If I build a temp wall 2 or 3 ft in from the permanent wall, it won't be taking any load off of the permanent wall. Is there something I am missing here?


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,...

Your Plan will work Just Fine...

It's not so much about the Shear strength of the screws...
The Strength is created by thee Friction between the 2x12,+the studs...

If you're That worried about it,...
Can you access the outside,+ Thru-bolt the 2x12....??
Not that I think it's at all necessary...


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## cary00silve (Jan 5, 2009)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,...
> 
> Your Plan will work Just Fine...
> 
> ...


I can't access the outside due to the brick veneer. I certainly don't want to be replacing bricks:no: 


I should also mention that this is a ranch style single story house. This particular wall is on the side of the house, and hence does not appear to be load bearing (at least as non-load bearing as an outside wall can be). The load on the studs is so minimal that I can actually twist the studs by hand. I'll take some pictures this evening. I have a feeling that my descriptions are only helping to confuse everyone.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

so its really not a load bearing wall you can probably just carefully pull out what you need to a little at a time if it 8 ft do 2 4 ft sections


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

I'm not bringing anything useful to this thread but why hasn't thekc*termite* replied yet :laughing:


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I think your idea of the 2x12 would work fine. This is not a bearing wall. The only load is of the wall itself. The sheathing and drywall will help to support the load temporarily while you have the plate pulled out. If it drops, it will probably be minimal and you could nudge it up a hair if you have to.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

angus242 said:


> I'm not bringing anything useful to this thread but why hasn't thekc*termite* replied yet :laughing:


He won't return to the scene of the crime. :laughing:


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