# How to remove brass drain flange from fiberglass shower pan



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Internal-Wrench


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Did you remove the nut?

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Joe, thanks, I did look at a wrench like that but the PVC sticks way up into the flange, almost to the shower floor (see picture). I bought one of these for a replacement so I know I have to cut that PVC down, but I don't know if I'll have enough room for that wrench even after cutting it.
http://www.siouxchief.com/Drainage/...howerDrain/No-Caulk-Shower-Module-Drain.RW2II

EPlumber, thanks as well, I do have the nut undone from below. The drain body extends pretty far down below the shower pan. So I'm trying to get the flange/drain body out in hopes of slipping the nut over the top of the pipe.


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

The drain is usually sealed with silicone or putty. I would try to lift it with a narrow putty knife. 
Since you have access from below, I'd use a solvent weld type of strainer as a replacement. It will not leak in the future.
You can cut the tailpiece to get the nut off and then use a coupling to reassemble the tailpiece after you install the new drain.

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Does that drain pipe have a trap and a clean out some place.

That's pretty how they did that strainer.


----------



## idlplumb (Sep 2, 2012)

Doesn't look like a very conventional install so the removal will be very conventional. 

Start by cutting the PVC to give you enough room to work and try gently tapping the strainer from underneath. If they didn't epoxy it to the tub, then it should just pop out. If they did, you're stuck trying to CAREFULLY cut notches into the side of the strainer so that you can stick a screwdriver in there and break the seal. But if it's epoxied in, you might have a very hard time getting it out without screwing up the tub.


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

EPlumber, my thought on using the compression style is that we might end up remodeling that shower in a few years (don't have the $$ right now). So I thought I'd go with something easily removable instead of having to cut and solvent weld that drain multiple times. Let me know if I've got faulty logic there and if you think I'd still be better off with cutting/welding. I'm new to this so I don't take offense because I want to fix this the right way .

Joe, I assume sarcasm by the pretty comment? Let me tell ya it was a lot of fun chipping and digging all that epoxy out of there. Here is the whole setup:


----------



## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Was there an internal nut on the drain?

I'd personally go with a jackrabbit drain for repair situation. . . Much easier to tighten up.


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Nope, there was not an internal nut. That floor joist does make things difficult but there is enough room to get a wrench in there towards the "top" of the last picture. My problem is still trying to get the flange off the fiberglass. Seems to be putty or silicone based on what I've scraped off from underneath. None of the "gentle persuasion" methods have worked so far. Can't get a putty knife in from above. And a hammer from below isn't working either. I haven't cut the pipe yet. Seems that is my best bet along with an internal wrench to get the flange loose? Or is carefully using a hacksaw a better idea?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've had to cut the top flange into 4 sections with a Deremel tool with a cut off blade, or an ossilating saw, then use a sawsall down the drain (once the PVC is out of the way).
Now your working with 4 pieces not just one.
Then take my ossilating saw with a narrow under cutting blade (the teeth are facing up) to slide under the flange to break the bond.

Someone had used JB Weld to hold it in place.


----------



## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

idlplumb said:


> ...If they didn't epoxy it to the tub


Why mix up a batch of epoxy for just one place?


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Ok so I got back to work and cut the pipe. Haven't tried removing drain yet. I had to do some awkward reaching to cut it and although I tried to cut straight I've got a bit of an angle. Is this ok or will it cause problems when solvent welding the coupling on?


----------



## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

That looks a bit much to me. Specially since its gonna wind up under shower. What did you cut it with? Working in confined area not easy. But now that you got it cut, may be easier to recut. Mite need small handsaw. Short fine tooth jab saw. There are handles that will hold sawzall hack saw blades, at adjustable angles.
And gizmo like this for cutting pipe from inside, some fit electric drill, some fit dremel tool.


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Yep got one of this inside pipe cutters. Also bought a dremel tool. So I should be able to even it out. I made that cut with a hacksaw but not having enough arm room screwed up my angle.

I also got the drain out. Cut drain into 2 pieces from inside then cut top of flange with dremel. Stuck a screwdriver in the groove, twisted, and drain popped right out. Thankfully it was just silicone. But epoxy wouldn't have surprised me.


----------



## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

"...got the drain out." Awrite! We knew you could do it! Have you got one of these? Sort of a jab hack saw. It can also be used with broken hacksaw blade. haven't used mine a lot but there were times nothin else would do. Like reachin way up between things to saw bolt holdin um together, when couldn't get to head or nut and sawzall was too bulky or violent. Way easier than tryin to hold a blade with vise-grips.


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

That's exactly what I used! Came free when I bought my hacksaw and turned out to be pretty useful. There wasn't enough room for the dremel so I reached up there with the small saw and cut it off level. Now just to fit up the coupling and glue it all together. I really appreciate the help!


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Since everyone loves a good train wreck, here's how the job ended. I got back to work this morning (2nd bathroom, no rush) and was test fitting the new coupling and tail pipe. As I pushed the coupling onto the existing stub I felt a snap. The flange on the tee that the drain pipe was connected to snapped off. Looked like the drain was glued into the tee and the flange on the tee cracked at some point. The crack was filled with...more epoxy. At that point I felt I was in over my head and called a plumber. He said while epoxy works for a little while it is really brittle and probably cracked with just a little force. He also found some other things that weren't to code so he's going to address all the problems. In the end I'm actually glad it broke all the way because I would have hated to get everything back together and then found this leak further down the line. Oh well, lessons learned I guess. I do still appreciate all the help I was given here.


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Sorry you're going through all this, but it sounds like you have it under control now.
it's amazing what some people do or use to avoid doing it right.


----------



## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

" I felt a snap." Great feeling, especially when snap could be anywhere on 20' line with multiple connections behind multiple walls.

"it's amazing what some people do or use to *avoid* doing it right." Looks like this was on purpose, too. That much epoxy had to cost more than small cans of primer and glue, in time and money. Not to mention Scotty's time, money, and now plumber.


----------



## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

notmrjohn said:


> " I felt a snap." Great feeling, especially when snap could be anywhere on 20' line with multiple connections behind multiple walls.
> 
> "it's amazing what some people do or use to *avoid* doing it right." Looks like this was on purpose, too. That much epoxy had to cost more than small cans of primer and glue, in time and money. Not to mention Scotty's time, money, and now plumber.


Yes, but it does fit the philosophy : Git 'r dun, so it must be good to go if we got 'r dun.


----------



## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

We didn't have no coupling, but "we got 'r dun". Bicycle inner tube and electricians tape, that'll hold er.


----------

