# SW Pro Classic vs BM Advance for Cabinets



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I won't address the use of BM products since I use SW. The SW Proclassic is some great stuff, especially for cabinets. It is something that definitely has a learning curve to it. It sets up quickly which means you can't be brushing or rolling back into the wet paint unless you're quick about it or you will mar the paint. I often use a Whizz roller to get the paint onto the surface quickly and then I either let it be or brush through the wet paint depending on the look the customer is after. Proclassic levels beautifully which means hardly any brush marks on the painted surface. It produces a hard, durable finish.
I'm sure someone will come along shortly to give you the lowdown on the BM Advance.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

For me,the Advance is easier to work with. Both are good for cabinets.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

My opinion which will probably confuse you more I like advance for spray and pro classic for rolling. Clear as mud right.
First you need to find out what kind of sprayer as this will make a difference. As stated pro classic has a learning curve but is my go to trim paint most of the time. Advance has a long re-coat time and this can be a disadvantage in some situations, but is a great paint.


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

sorry I cant comment on b/m but I can tell you that I revisited a cabinet job that I did about 7 years ago , that I used pro classic acrylic and it still looked perfect.


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## rbriggs82 (Mar 4, 2013)

Given the choice I'd go with Pro Classic oil over all of them. :yes:


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## mopower440 (Dec 30, 2013)

I used insl-x cabinet coat (benjamin moore owned) and it is some GOOD stuff!


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## iminaquagmire (Jul 10, 2010)

I like SW Proclassic Acrylic-Alkyd on cabinets. Use it on all my trim and doors too. Done several cabinet jobs sprayed with a fine finish tip. It levels like glass and dries hard. Just don't go back until its dried. If you get a blemish or drip, sand it smooth once dry and recoat.


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## gmaint (Feb 21, 2014)

_after rehabing and up-grading many apartments, i would use SW pro-classic every time._


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

iminaquagmire said:


> I like SW Proclassic Acrylic-Alkyd on cabinets. Use it on all my trim and doors too. Done several cabinet jobs sprayed with a fine finish tip. It levels like glass and dries hard. Just don't go back until its dried. If you get a blemish or drip, sand it smooth once dry and recoat.


This has become my favorite trim paint. I find it easy to work with, easy to sand and find that it cures fairly quickly.


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

So I'll be using a duron performance max 395 sprayer for this job (I researched way out, starting this or next week). 

Our sample colors are BM. Should I stick with advanced due to getting samples from them? Can SW perfectly match our color of choice from BM? 

I'm not partial to either, I'm obviously not a pro. I'd prefer whatever won't run, but I understand I can sand after curing if I happen to paint too thick and get a run. That's fine. 

Will be rolling and or brushing the frames and spraying the cabinets. 

We have rolled and brushed an entire cabinet set before but we would prefer this kitchen come out more professional looking. 

Thanks again for everyone's advice.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I googled your sprayer it is airless. If you have not used one before there are 2 important things PRACTICE and tip size. Both of the paints you are considering have a reputation for runs and sags. This can be minimized with tip size and practice. For practice most paint stores have mis-tinted paint for like $10 a gallon. Go to local appliance store get some large cardboard boxes. It takes a little to get your distance right and your arm to make the right motion
As for tip size these paint are prone to runs and sags as stated these can be controlled somewhat with the right tip and I can almost guarantee the tip that came with sprayer is too big. It doesn't matter if it's new paint, strain it.
Are these cabinets installed?
As far as matching colors either store should be able to match the others.
If you have any questions come on back.


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Thanks. 

The cabinets are installed but I planned on removing doors to paint them. 

I'll have to see if there is a fine tip available for me. If not I'm sure I could buy one somewhere.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

A fine finish tip will work well SW has them at some stores the others can order them. A quick tip while at the store buy the fine finish filters for your gun they run $11 I think, they are yellow. With the bigger filter in the gun and a FF tip sometimes the gun will spit, the FF filters will stop this.


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Ok thanks for the advice. And I have model home cabinet samples to practice on (wife used to sell homes, so she still knows people selling. Scooped up a couple for practice purposes).

And pre drill the hardware holes or wait till after painting?


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Do you typically sand between every coat? Or just if need be after curing and inspecting? How many light coats? Would it make sense to cost the inside 2-3 and outside one more coat than the insides?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

These are both quality paints, 2 coats is all you should need in or out and yes a light sanding between coats. Since you are using thin coats if you think you need another coat it won't hurt. Just be sure previous is completely dry. And wipe very well after your light sanding.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I haven't tried the PC hybrid, but I continue to be amazed at how well Advance sprays out. 
Despite the possibility of sagging, I find it to be quite forgiving when sprayed compared to acrylics. The longer open time of Advance allows it to flow out, and resist the 'orange peel' effect better than faster drying acrylics. 

Multiple light coats is good, but not too light. And don't rush the re coat times. 

Tool is right on about the tips, tip size is critical to success. I like a 311-411 (not fine finish) but the FF tips can be easier to control. 

I'm on a job right now that's getting Advance gloss on all the trim. Going to tackle the cabinets sometime in the next few days. 

Good luck with your project and keep us posted.


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## Danahy (Feb 23, 2014)

t1snwbrdr12 said:


> I know this subject has been discussed an absurd amount, so I start off with an apology. For the do it yourself homeowner, which do you suggest? Going to paint regular old oak cabinets to a creamy white. We were stuck on advanced till recently. Now I've been reading so much about people liking pro classic for cabinets. Is one easier to work with for a non-pro? I have access to a sprayer, though that is all I know about it. That it is a sprayer. I don't know if it's airless, hvlp, or what it is. I planned on trying to spray the doors and roll the frames. I don't have a month to leave the kitchen un useable, but I am doing this before we move in. We will be careful but still want it to cure enough in a week or so time to be living there and opening them carefully. A sample door we played with for color and glaze is in BM colors but I'm sure we can match it easy enough to SW. SW will be on sale soon too, but it's not the deciding factor for the cabinet paint. Thanks.


Curious about a couple things. Painting "old oak cabinets", wondering about if you are going to need to prime at all, and if so what would you use?

Also, you mention " for colour and glaze". What is the glaze you are referring to?

Tks


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Old as in original to the house. Just oak cabinets, about 12 years old +/- 

We were going to sand clean prime and paint. 

My wife is going to add some glaze to the details. Just some brown color to "antique" it.


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Two more quickies. 

Zinser 123 plus ok? Picked it up last night by accident. Meant to get regular 123 but shelves must have been mixed up a little. 

And pre drill knob holes? Or after paint?

Thanks again.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

t1snwbrdr12 said:


> Two more quickies.
> 
> Zinser 123 plus ok? Picked it up last night by accident. Meant to get regular 123 but shelves must have been mixed up a little.
> 
> ...


Plus will be fine.
I would drill before then sand around the hole.


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Finally Making some progress. 

First coat of paint went on frames, trim, and beadboard today. Advance brushed and rolled buttery smooth. We really like it. Doing linen white and going to go back and glaze it with a brown to give it that distressed look. I didn't have any issues with running with the paint like I was worried about. 

I'm sure I didn't do things technically correct in terms of trimming the cabinets out, but it is to my wife's taste so it'll be alright. I had to take up 1/4" at the end of two cabinets to shim the crown (due to an over-extension of the face of the cabinet vs the side/end). The side was laminate on top of pressed particle board anyway. I know there are 1/4 shim boards or hobby wood or something that would have worked to shim just the crown, but holding a piece of scrap beadboard up there made her happy. Someone told me beadboard needs to stay below waist level or extend floor to ceiling, but not just in a random place like I put it. Oh well! Hope it doesn't deter potential buyers down the road! 

anyways, what so i sand with between coats of advance? Scotch pad? Steel wool? 220? Thanks!


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

Happy with advanced. 

Finishing up cabinet frames. Goes on nice and smooth. Levels great. You guys had me worried about drips or runs, no issues. 

Very happy I didn't go with pro classic. Just used it on chair rail and trim to save a couple bucks over advance. It's not leveling out and definitely gets sticky fast like you guys said. Stickiness doesn't bother me as much as it not leveling out. No matter how light a touch I used I can see my brush marks. Same brushes used for each job, so that can't be to blame. A pro painter is obviously better than I am, but all things similar and common, as a homeowner I'd rather use advance.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Glad it worked out for you. The secret to pro classic is not to overwork it and believe me that's harder than it sounds. If it was getting sticky that sounds like that is what happened. Just put in on and 1 time pull your brush thru it. Yes you will see brush marks but as it dries these will disappear. Takes a little practice. This is for future reference since you have already bought some.


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## t1snwbrdr12 (Nov 27, 2013)

You are correct. I posted literally as I finished a coat. It is leveling out better than I imagined after feeling how fast it tacked up. For the novice/homeowner, advance may be worth a few extra bucks for its workability if you can control yourself enough to not get drips/runs.


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