# How to attach metal plate to cinder wall



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

What ever you use to attach to the post aim for the mortar joint


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

3M makes a super strong double stick tape. It is used to hold display panels on semi-trucks. You could tap-con (2) 1" square tube rails to the mail box blocks, then use the double stick tape to hold the plate on the tubing. 

3M VHB tape

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tap...MIyNi4pLD24AIVAlYMCh3hdQTpEAAYASAAEgJ7OvD_BwE


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## KoenBro (Nov 21, 2015)

What solution do you recommend for the back of the steel plate?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You might copy these hanger for mirrors, it sits in the bottom one and the top one just slides down to hold it in place.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

KoenBro said:


> What solution do you recommend for the back of the steel plate?


If this was directed at my comment it helps to use the quote feature to avoid confusion.


I will try again. Take 2 lengths of 1" square steel (or SS would be better) cut to about 24" long. Then Tap-Con the bars to the block.
You will need to drill a larger 3/4" hole on the top of the bar that will be clearance for the socket needed to drive the Tap-Con. And then a smaller hole just large enough to clear the Tap-Con screw size through the bottom of the bar. I would probably use 3 screws per bar. Once your bars are in place, apply the 3M VHB tape to the bars, then stick the Address plate to them. The metal surfaces will need to be clean, de-greased, and sanded lightly. Take precautions to install straight and exactly where you want it. Once the tape has made contact, there will no moving it.

Most would not consider tape in this application, But this 3M VHB tape is amazingly strong. Read the application info from the link above.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Purchase a 1/6 treated deck board. Cut to length (24"). Rip off about 1 1/2" strip from each edge with saw blade at a 30 degree angle. Lay all three pieces on back of house number plate. Epoxy the top and bottom strips to plate with JBweld (the narrow side). Paint with black paint. Slide center piece out toward the end. 

Drill and counter sink three or maybe four holes in center piece. Paint black. Mark and drill cinder block. Paint the other side of center piece. Mount center piece with deck screws and plastic anchors.


Mount house number by sliding on from the side.


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## KoenBro (Nov 21, 2015)

OK I am getting ready to mount. I will drill some 3/8" holes into the cinderblock and put some 1/4" steel rods in. 



What kind of cement (or grout?) should I get from Home Depot to secure the rods into the cinderwall?


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

How are you going to mount?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Anchoring cement. You can buy it in a caulk tube


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## KoenBro (Nov 21, 2015)

hkstroud said:


> How are you going to mount?




I drilled two 1/4” holes into the cinderwall. 

Then welded two 3-½” long pieces of 1/4” rod to the back of the plate on the upper half, and slid 1/2” long segments of 1/2” tube onto them to act as spacers, and also welded two ½” long pieces of 1/4” rod on the back, towards the bottom to act as spacers. Then hammered the long rod segments into the wall, a slight spacing mismatch ensured friction fit. It does look good.


















Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Nice.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

Or get a tube of adhesive caulk to mount the plate to the cinderblock. There are caulks made for use with stone and they should work with the cinderblock as well.


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## BigD9105 (Aug 4, 2019)

Make sure you fill the cinder blocks. I would put rebar down the inside attached to the base with epoxy and fill the cells with non shrink concrete or Quick Rok. This will give you a very soild backing behind the blocks the drill holes with the supplied bit for tapcon screws ( which they have in Flathead or hexhead which ever you choose), this should solve the Issue. BigD9105


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