# Preparing drywall mud, all purpose green bucket



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

Ok, so I bought some Sheetrock All Purpose mud in the green lid container. How do I go about preparing it? Some of yall mentioned mixing water into it.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just use it out of the bucket for the first and second coats.
On the last coat you may need to add a tiny amount of water.
Going to need a paddle and a Heavy duty 1/2 drill.


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## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Just use it out of the bucket for the first and second coats.
> On the last coat you may need to add a tiny amount of water.
> Going to need a paddle and a Heavy duty 1/2 drill.



I already have one of these...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_176765-5187...r&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=paint+mixer&facetInfo=


Would that be enough?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

This is what I do---thin what is needed for the tape---for the first coat after the tape, I like it as is,after mixing----then like Joe mentioned top coat thinned a bit---

I never use green for the top coat---I'm lazy and prefer blue lid for the top coat--it's much easier to sand.


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

i use 20 minute for all coats. you guys are just not working fast enough!


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

For a beginner, please don't let yourself be sucked into the trap of using any quick mud at all.

You are not racing the clock for a paycheck. And you need time to think about your next steps, and the freedom to be a little relaxed in what you are doing.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

I always thin my mud out about pint or half pint of clean water. Mix good and take your time.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I also agree with mixing water for several reasons, ease of application, helps wet the tape (reducing bubbles) and when you pull it the excess comes out from under the tape a lot easier. That mixer you have is about the worst as it is really a paint mixer. This is what you should have gotten http://www.lowes.com/pd_245395-51834-8082_0__?productId=3054665 maybe take the other one back. Even if you decide not to add water you need to mix the mud before you use it.


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## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> I also agree with mixing water for several reasons, ease of application, helps wet the tape (reducing bubbles) and when you pull it the excess comes out from under the tape a lot easier. That mixer you have is about the worst as it is really a paint mixer. This is what you should have gotten http://www.lowes.com/pd_245395-51834-8082_0__?productId=3054665 maybe take the other one back. Even if you decide not to add water you need to mix the mud before you use it.



Ive had that one for years, bought it to mix paint. lol. But figured if I could get away with using for mixing joint compound why not.

So youre saying put water in the whole bucket? Or put some mud in a mud pan and mix some water in that?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If you are not using additives put water in the whole bucket. If you are going to use additives such as Mud Max just mix it in what you can use. The additives make the mud hard to sand, so if you mix the whole bucket your final coat will be hard to sand.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Yeah when I use mud max I just use one box of mud just for that for the taping and setting beads after that I toss the mud and use the all purpose mud and I always mix in a min half pint of water. See how it works and add more as I need to no more then a pint.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

framer52 said:


> i use 20 minute for all coats. you guys are just not working fast enough!


Bush league. I use all 5 minute....


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

You can also take some of the compound out and put it in another bucket, and mix it by hand with this
http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH08JAU_DRYWAL_01.JPG

It's easy for smaller batches. Mixing is more important than water - it's surprising how creamy it gets even without water. Water can also help, and is almost mandatory for warm weather taping, especially with a fan going. You might need to add a bit of water every hour.


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## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> If you are not using additives put water in the whole bucket. If you are going to use additives such as Mud Max just mix it in what you can use. The additives make the mud hard to sand, so if you mix the whole bucket your final coat will be hard to sand.



Ok. So a pint to half a pint in the bucket of mud?

And I guess Ill go get that other mixer. Been spending tons of money at Lowes for the past almost 10 years why stop now?!


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Yes one oz per gallon of mud so in a five gallon bucket there is really about four gallons in there. I start off with a half pint and work up from there no more then a pint of water. The reason to do that is to have the mud as you embed the tape and run your six inch knife over the tape is to get the air out and the extra mud out. Hope that helps and just don't over work the mud or the tape do the tape and corner beads let it sit for twenty four hours after you done. then do your first coat let that dry and go back the next day so forth and so on.


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## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

So how long are you supposed to mix the mud? What should the consistency be like? Its not easy to mix, my mixer kept moving to the edge of the bucket and hitting. How fast should I have the drill going? I was doing it slow most of the time and then did full blast a little at the end.

Man, I dont like doing those inside corners. Im thinking about getting one of those corner knifes, do those work?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Arsinek said:


> So how long are you supposed to mix the mud? What should the consistency be like? Its not easy to mix, my mixer kept moving to the edge of the bucket and hitting. How fast should I have the drill going? I was doing it slow most of the time and then did full blast a little at the end.
> 
> Man, I dont like doing those inside corners. Im thinking about getting one of those corner knifes, do those work?


Till it gets smooth. Keep the drill slow too fast and you put air bubbles in it that will show up as pin holes and pock marks. As for consistency when you stop stirring it should burp. And when it is right it shouldn't pull. If you didn't add water it probably won't burp. By burp when you shut the drill off with the paddle still in the bottom of the bucket there will be an air bubble come to the top.


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## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

Well when I went to remove the mixer there was definitely resistence if thats what you mean by "pull". I put in 8 oz of water.

When Im mixing should I have the paddle pushed all the way down to the bottom? Do I move it up and down at all?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Almost to a sour cream consistancey and I start off with little quick pulses then do a even speed.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yes move it up and down.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Arsinek said:


> Man, I dont like doing those inside corners. Im thinking about getting one of those corner knifes, do those work?


Yes.

If you're having trouble mixing it, then take out a smaller amount and put it in another bucket. Mix that up, even with a hand mixer like the one I showed earlier.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

As for the corner tools working I have a couple never like the way they worked haven't used them in years. What problems are you having in the corners? One common mistake in corners is too much mud. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwyEWwXQi_k Watch this video I know you don't have this tool, but look at the amount of compound on the tape, this is all you need. And PLEASE say you are using paper tape, not mesh.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

If your having troubles mixing the mud use the amount in a box instead of a five gallon bucket. Like this http://www.usg.com/beadex-all-purpose-joint-compound.html
Don't worry you can find the green lid in a box too. It is three gallons as to having five to mix up. I use mud from the box. Open it up pull the bag of mud out drop it in the five gallon bucket mix and thin as needed. Then put the empty bag back in the box I now have trash box for stuff as well.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Nailbags said:


> If your having troubles mixing the mud use the amount in a box instead of a five gallon bucket. Like this http://www.usg.com/beadex-all-purpose-joint-compound.html
> Don't worry you can find the green lid in a box too. It is three gallons as to having five to mix up. I use mud from the box. Open it up pull the bag of mud out drop it in the five gallon bucket mix and thin as needed. Then put the empty bag back in the box I now have trash box for stuff as well.


I think beadex is just on the left coast. But all purpose green lid wether it is in a bucket or box is the same mud so why would one be easier to mix than the other. And to the OP the sour cream consistency is a good one.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

I've always used USG green lid for all coats and taping/bedding. when bucket is opened, I remove the plastic covering and pour on a little less than a quart of clean water. I made my own mixer, using3/8" all thread and 3 pieces of 1/8"x6" flat steel, drilled holes in dead center and tapped for 3/8" all thread, placed the flat steel in 3 1/2" increments, nuts on top and bottom of each, and a lock nut on bottom end, as a gauge to bottom of bucket, bent each flat steel in a propeller fashion, top piece to pull mud down, bottom piece to pull mud up, middle piece more up and down for mixing/whipping. I've used this for 30+ years mixing mud,paint, even driveway sealer it works great and cost less than $5.00 to make, it helps to grind about 3 flat edges at top so hold better in 1/2" drill chuck

at start, push it to bottom of bucket giving a gauge to where bottom is on mixer, it will be covered in the mud, never go that deep again while mixing, nor the the ends of steel hit sides of bucket, anything that hits will bring plastic chips into the mud causing streaks when applying mud. I go up and down, all around and around bucket not hitting it anywhere. start out slow with 1/2" variable speed drill and increase speed until it forms a whirlpool like center. keep in your mind where the top beater is located, never pull it up higher than the top nut it will throw mud everywhere! as you go up and down with mixer you'll see air burps coming up and pop when those stop, the air is all out, usually about 5 minutes per bucket give or take.

everyone keeps saying thin coats are best? I use a 6" knife for taping and apply about an 1/8" base on joints/butts, apply tape, then wipe it off smooth knife at an angle I like a consistency about like creamy peanut butter, it stick on my hawk and knives well without dropping all over the floor. when wiping down, I like it to have a nice sheen or shine evenly all over, if you see dry spots on drywall paper after wiping mud off? you've probably removed all the mud under the tape as well= bubbles in tape, might not show up till it's been wet with paint? then harder to fix so leave mud under tape!

2nd. and 3rd. coats, I use a 12"and 16" concave trowel with a hawk only pan for taping. coating, I get enough mud on trowel to do a full 4' butt in one smooth pass, if not? you'll likely have lap marks to be sanded out. on longer joints I get enough mud to come from corner to at least 4' out then work from dry into wet, holding trowel at an angle till I can see no lap marks at all then wipe it off the joint. then take your 6" knife and remove any excess that came out from edges of knife/trowel. every coat I'll start out with an 1/8" or so of mud covering, then smooth or removing 1/16" or so I want that shine to be seen easily on everything! as it dries the shine will go but will be smooth it also shrinks for next coat which 3rd. should be fine. do not! sand between coats, only after done should it be sanded. just knock off any high spots with your knife after each coat, especially along knife/trowel edges. it's very hard to get all the dust off and out of sander marks. which will absorb into the next coat and leave streaks to be sanded out causing sanding to be too deep scratching the paper or tape showing?

for inside corners, I use a 4"knife and a 4" old paint brush. the brush can coat both sides at once. I pretear and fold all my corners paper tape only! and put them where I can reach them in the sequence I need, brush a good coat on both sides of corner, any large gaps, pack full with mud. use knife if needed? place tape in corners firmly, but not into those gaps, run 4" knife along corner, straight side first- where no gaps holding knife at an angle both ways, forcing excess mud out away from tape careful to not remove all mud under tape, wipe off all excess mud that was pushed out. do other side of tape running knife just to the fold, don't push past fold into the gaps. s shrinks mud will pull tape in, next coats will fill them in. I use a 6" knife on 2nd. coat in corners 2 coats in inside corners are usually enough, if needed? I've got a good Goldblatt inside corner tool I like and works well. Had it for years.

when done, most all sanding is only needed on edges of where knife/trowel was ran, maybe one quick pass over joints? inside corners, just one pass along edge of knife line no more than two minutes to sand each sheet, or damp sponge mop works well with less dust.

outside corners, I use metal bead only. if around doors/windows? cut bead at angles so laps over and push together so as least ridge ass possible as flush as can get. I use a 6" knife for first coat on outside corners, and tape as well along edge of beads keep that shine on the mud, go around the corners in circle to blend in any ridge from pieces run knife along bead corners to remove any hangovers left after each coat. 2nd.&3rd. coats I use an 8" and 10" knife with mud pan. when sanding just sand along knife lines where the white of the mud removed can be seen. when done, check everywhere with bright light at different angles to see shadows/imperfections, and touch up if needed? at end of day, wash off sides of bucket with the brush, that dried stuff will fall off and mix into the rest next day. leave water left from washing bucket sides on top of remaining mud, put lid on tight. next day remove lid and remix just like before adding no more water. prime and paint. stand back admire your work! it's normal to see some or all of joint and corner mud until paint had completely dried. I recommend 2 coats of good paint and primer, preferably flat paint! semi gloss or high gloss paint, who knows what is going to show through!?¿¿
I hope I've helped some


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Ahaaaa another hawk and trowel guy I knew I wasn't the only one. Instead of the paint brush in the corner try this http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...S3UcHWMYLO9QSNgoHIAQ&ved=0CFIQ9QEwAQ&dur=8527 Wow hope that comes up right.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> I think beadex is just on the left coast. But all purpose green lid wether it is in a bucket or box is the same mud so why would one be easier to mix than the other. And to the OP the sour cream consistency is a good one.


To me mixing three gallons of mud is easier then doing a whole five at one time less bucket walk etc... that is why i suggested using it from the box. and Beadex is only in WA, OR, ID. even though it is the same stuff USG sells nationally.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

ToolSeeker said:


> Aaaaa another hawk and trowel guy I knew I wasn't the only one. Instead of the paint brush in the corner try this http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...S3UcHWMYLO9QSNgoHIAQ&ved=0CFIQ9QEwAQ&dur=8527 Wow hope that comes up right.


that roller may work well? I've never tried it. it is another tool to clean up the brush gets cleaned while cleaning the rest. to each their own. I no longer do drywall at all simply stating my experience:thumbup:


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