# Need help with Honeywell Vision Pro Thermostat...frozen in NJ



## ronaldpalka (Feb 15, 2009)

Hello. I bought a new thermostat yestarday (Honeywell Vision Pro) as it claims 15 minutes setup. Yea right.

I have NO heat due to, I believe one, wire.

Old Thermostat configuration:

Red to R
Green to G
Yellow to Y
Blue to O
White to B
White to XI

I have two white wires and the thermostat has O/B together as one. Where does the other wire go to????


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

you need a C connection on the new VP subbase for a constant 24Vs to power it up.even though the LED screen is lit the feedback your old stat worked on can't run it.R/RED is your power 24Vs,and the C is the other side of the transformer in the air handler section.if you have a digital meter set it for AC volts and you should read 24Vs from R to C on the subbase as a constant.


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## jmcqueen (Feb 16, 2009)

i had a similar issue when hooking up my visionpro iaq. yes, you need to make sure you have the common ("C") wire hooked up from the furnace board to your tstat module. regardless of the colors of the wires from the furnace board to the module, make sure that the wires go to their matching designations on both the module and furnace board. it sounds like you are that far. 

my biggest gripe with the honeywell wiring diagrams is that they don't show the "C" connections. took me forever to figure out my non-powered bypass humidifier hookup to bypass the old humidistat so that the humidistat on the iaq is used instead. it had to do with, you guessed it, the "C" wire and a jumper connection. it's probably due to the fact that the installation manual is written for "professional installation only" and the C connections are assumed to be understood by anyone in the industry. i'm cool with that for the most part, but how hard is it really for most people to install a multi-function thermostat? honeywell should just say something like "...professional installation recommended..." but put a blurb in the install instructions about the "C" wiring.

just my $.02
:wink:


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

jmcqueen said:


> i had a similar issue when hooking up my visionpro iaq. yes, you need to make sure you have the common ("C") wire hooked up from the furnace board to your tstat module. regardless of the colors of the wires from the furnace board to the module, make sure that the wires go to their matching designations on both the module and furnace board. it sounds like you are that far.
> 
> my biggest gripe with the honeywell wiring diagrams is that they don't show the "C" connections. took me forever to figure out my non-powered bypass humidifier hookup to bypass the old humidistat so that the humidistat on the iaq is used instead. it had to do with, you guessed it, the "C" wire and a jumper connection. it's probably due to the fact that the installation manual is written for "professional installation only" and the C connections are assumed to be understood by anyone in the industry. i'm cool with that for the most part, but how hard is it really for most people to install a multi-function thermostat? honeywell should just say something like "...professional installation recommended..." but put a blurb in the install instructions about the "C" wiring.
> 
> ...


Sorry for the hijack here but can I ask how you hooked up your humidifier? I think I have it figured out, but I am confused, because it looks like mine is powered by an external transformer. It is a non-powered/by-pass unit, so I am guessing I hook one of the wires from the solenoid to the M2 contact on the IAQ module, install the jumper, which I understand, and connect the other wire from the solenoid to the common wire, which would be a pigtail inside the furnace housing. I would then unhook and discard the external transformer as it wouldn't be needed any longer. Am I correct?

The thing I am referring to as an external transformer clips over the "hot" wire coming from the junction box that powers the furnace, it then has two yellow wires, one goes to Red(?) on the furnace, the other goes to one wire on the solenoid, from there I forget. Hmm....


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

ronaldpalka said:


> Hello. I bought a new thermostat yestarday (Honeywell Vision Pro) as it claims 15 minutes setup. Yea right.
> 
> I have NO heat due to, I believe one, wire.
> 
> ...


The white wire that went to the B terminal on your old stat, should be the common wire.

B was used as a common terminal on many older thermostats.

On Rheem/Ruud heat pumps its the RV control.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

jmcqueen said:


> my biggest gripe with the honeywell wiring diagrams is that they don't show the "C" connections. took me forever to figure out my non-powered bypass humidifier hookup to bypass the old humidistat so that the humidistat on the iaq is used instead. it had to do with, you guessed it, the "C" wire and a jumper connection.
> just my $.02
> :wink:


The humidifier is not suppose to use the common of the IAQ.

The IAQ install instructions show were the humidifier common is to be connected.

At least they do on everyone I installed.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Master Brian said:


> I would then unhook and discard the external transformer as it wouldn't be needed any longer. Am I correct?
> 
> The thing I am referring to as an external transformer clips over the "hot" wire coming from the junction box that powers the furnace, it then has two yellow wires, one goes to Red(?) on the furnace, the other goes to one wire on the solenoid, from there I forget. Hmm....


What your describing sounds more like a current sensor, then a transformer. Since a transformer wouldn't connect to the R terminal of the furnace.

What brand and model humidifier do you have.
How many wires does it have.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

beenthere said:


> What your describing sounds more like a current sensor, then a transformer. Since a transformer wouldn't connect to the R terminal of the furnace.
> 
> What brand and model humidifier do you have.
> How many wires does it have.


You are correct, it isn't a transformer, it is actually a relay. I tried to correct that post last night, but my laptop had issues and it was getting late. Sorry for that confusion.

The instructions I have from Honeywell's website and the manual that came with my unit show a non-powered humidifier going to the #2 HUM terminal on the module, a jumper coming from the R, RC & RH terminals to the #1 HUM terminal. It then shows the other wire from the humidifier pigtailing into the C or Commom terminal on the module. 

That part all makes sense to me. I am confused about your saying the humidifier not using the common, unless you are referring to powered humidifiers, then no they don't, but my instructions seem to clearly show my non-powered bypass humidifier should be pigtailed to the C or common terminal. Of course, I am no expert in this, which is why I'm here asking.

My hudifier is Chippewa 224, which is the exact same thing as an Aprilaire 224. It has two wires coming out of the solenoid. 

The old wiring was as such. From the 24v relay, which is clipped over the "hot" wire coming from the 110v junction box, there are two yellow wires. The 1st yellow wire goes to a pigtail connection that leads to R on the furnace. The other two wires in this pigtail go to the furnace control board and to the R terminal on my IAQ module. The 2nd yellow wire went to a red wire leading to my old dial style humidistat. 

From the solenoid mounted on the humidifier, there are two wires. The 1st wire went to a pigtail connection, which from what I gather is the common. One wire in this pigtail went to the condensor, one goes to the grounding tab on 24vac transformer on the furnace, the other goes to the C teminal on the IAQ module. The 2nd wire from solenoid goes to the white wire on the old humidistat.

What I don't know is, do I need that relay with the IAQ? Or do I just bypass it and hook the wires from the solenoid directly up to the IAQ module?

Any info is great, I will try Aprilaire and even Honeywell, but anytime I have asked honeywell anything, I get a "this is to be installed by a qualified tech". Problem is there are only two listed for my area and both kept passing me to other places. I finally gave up and ordered it online....


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Since I don't know what the relay was being used for with the original hook up, I can't say.

You should have just connected the 2 wires that went to the humidistat, to the IAQ's HUM terminals. And not jumped from the IAQ's R terminals to the Hum1 terminal.

KISS, Keep It Super Simple.

Connecting a common from another appliance to the IAQ can interfer with the IAQ in some instances. Bogus temp readings.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Since I don't know what the relay was being used for with the original hook up, I can't say.
> 
> You should have just connected the 2 wires that went to the humidistat, to the IAQ's HUM terminals. And not jumped from the IAQ's R terminals to the Hum1 terminal.
> 
> ...


I could try that. I didn't know if that would be ok. I suppose at that point the humidifier would be considered a "powered" humidifier? I am guessing that because it would have received power from the furnace 24vac transformer. Am I correct?

I tried wiring one way by by-passing the R from the 24vac trans, it somewhat picked up the humidifier, but I sensed it wasn't getting it 100% because not all options were available. I unhooked and it is currrently not hooked up. All else works. Thinking as I type, the part that it didn't pick up was the frost feature, but maybe that was because I haven't ran the cable for the outdoor sensor yet, so that is still unhooked and not setup. Hmm...

I am trying to attach a pic to show basically how the old setup was installed. I may be off on the old t-stat, because I went off memory, but I wrote down how the humidifier was hooked up and that is how it was. 

Again I will try to call both manufacturers and see what they say, but if anyone has any input to change. I'll try that as well. The help is greatly appreciated and again, hope I didn't hijack this too much....


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

There is a chance the 24 volt relay, was installed to bring on the blower when the old humidistat called for humidity.

If so, its not needed with the IAQ.

Anytime a humidifier gets power from the transformer directly, its a powered humidifier.

Without the outdoor sensor, frost protection can't work. Since it needsto know the outdoor temp to know ow much to lower humidity.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

Ok, well I spoke with Apilaire and they sent me a wire diagram, which I'll try to post.

They of course couldn't provide info about the Honeywell IAQ, so they couldn't tell me what to do....

What I have gathered is that the 24vac relay, must be needed for my application. Not sure of that, but why else would it be there? I guess it is a "current sensing" relay. In the diagram, which isn't real legible after manipulating image so I can post it, it says, "For multi-speed blower motors or systems that have other than 120 power, use Research Products Corporation Electronic Relay Model No. 50.". I do question the need, because I don't think I have a multi-speed blower on my furnace and I don't believe it is more than 120VAC furnace either. My furnace is a Goodman GMP 100-3. Can't find info on multi-speed blower, but the wiring diagram for furnace only calls for 115/1/50 Power Supply.

In any case, the pic I am attaching shows exactly how my humidistat was hooked up. I altered it to include the relay. Without the relay the 24v wire just goes to the Humidistat.

I am also attaching a pic of the two options for my IAQ. One is for Powered Humidifier, which I don't have and the other is the non-powered.

I don't see how I could use the powered option, so what would I do? I have 2 wires and only one place to connect on IAQ module being as the solenoid is already connected to C or Common. My thought is take the other wire from the solenoid and connect it to the IAQ module, but that bypasses the relay. That is if I need the relay. Maybe I don't, all it seems to be for is to sense that the fan is on. Wouldn't the IAQ know that? Another thought is to take the 24v wire that comes from the transformer and connect it to the IAQ, then pigtail the wires that went to the old Humidistat together, but not sure that is correct.

See why I'm confused. I do want to keep it simple...


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

beenthere said:


> There is a chance the 24 volt relay, was installed to bring on the blower when the old humidistat called for humidity.
> 
> If so, its not needed with the IAQ.
> 
> ...


I am strongly guessing it isn't needed. I don't see how it would have kicked on the blower, because it is only directly wired to the solenoid, humidistat and the transformer. One loop. Unless I'm missing something, it is a good thought. I know the IAQ will do that. 

As for the powered thing, I thought the exact same thing, but the lady at Aprilaire said that is not the case. The power is only to kick open the solenoid, so it's considered by-pass or non-powered. Of course, there is a chance that Honeywell is not referring to the same thing when they say powered humidifier. Arghhh....

What's the worst that can happen, if I elimate the relay for now and leave the wire from solenoid going to C or common and take the other wire from solenoid and hooking it to the HUM 2 terminal and installing the jumper? Speaking of the non-powered diagram of course.

I really appreciate the help.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Since I don't know what the relay was being used for with the original hook up, I can't say.
> 
> You should have just connected the 2 wires that went to the humidistat, to the IAQ's HUM terminals. And not jumped from the IAQ's R terminals to the Hum1 terminal.
> 
> ...


You are saying, I should take the 24v wire that went to the Humidistat and wire it to the Hum1 terminal and take the wire that went to the solenoid and wire it to the Hum2 terminal and leave all other connections the same?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The 2 wires that USE to go to the humidistat, hook them to the Hmm1 and 2 terminals.
Get rid of the jumper from R to the Hum1 terminal. Rewire everything else with the humidifier the way it was with the old humidistat.



PS: that furnace has a multispeed blower.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

beenthere said:


> The 2 wires that USE to go to the humidistat, hook them to the Hmm1 and 2 terminals.
> Get rid of the jumper from R to the Hum1 terminal. Rewire everything else with the humidifier the way it was with the old humidistat.
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you very much.


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