# Rockwell 4Amp multitool vs router for rough openings in OSB?



## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Or what is the right tool for cutting OSB rough openings and 2x6 framing? Needed something to go thru some air compressed nails, so got the Rockwell. What's the consensus on it? Do I need to throw down for a router, or will the RK5141 4 Amp do the job?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I would not use a router for OSB the glue will ruin the bits quickly. Maybe try a jigsaw?


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

They seem to run a lot cheaper. I see some have line lasers even. Wonder which brands would be best?


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Best for the money would be Bosch. Best overall would be Mafell, but $800 for a jigsaw is a bit excessive.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

What would be the easiest tool to use to get the cleanest line? That seems to be critical.
Can a multisaw double for this or not? I have the 4amp rk multisaw, even has a led light. Not sure which attachment to cut tho. Plan to practice some first.

Or should I go straight to a jigsaw?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What is it your trying to do?
Rough opening for what, door, window?
If the blade on an ossilating saw hits a nail it's trashed, same with a router.
I use a sawsall, with the right blade it will go right through the nails and the wood.
An ossilating saw is a great tool but would take far to long to do rough framing.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

joecaption said:


> What is it your trying to do?
> Rough opening for what, door, window?
> If the blade on an ossilating saw hits a nail it's trashed, same with a router.
> I use a sawsall, with the right blade it will go right through the nails and the wood.
> An ossilating saw is a great tool but would take far to long to do rough framing.


That's what I was wanting to know. I'm doing windows and doors. What blade is the right blade. I have a resip saw, is that the same as sawsall?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/demolition-bi-metal-reciprocating-saw-blades.aspx


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

joecaption said:


> http://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/demolition-bi-metal-reciprocating-saw-blades.aspx


Thanks! Is there a size that's best for this?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Where still not exatly sure what your doing so hard to say.
If the walls already framed and your just cutting out the holes for the window or door a short wide one slipped into a predrilled hole in each corner held at a slight angle will work from the inside.
If your trying to add a window or door where there is none now I find it easier to cut off the nails at the top and bottom of the studs that need to come out, drive is a flat bar to move the stud away from the sheathing, cut those nails off and pop out the stud.
Frame the opening making sure it's 100% square and then cutting out the sheathing.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Where still not exatly sure what your doing so hard to say.
> If the walls already framed and your just cutting out the holes for the window or door a short wide one slipped into a predrilled hole in each corner held at a slight angle will work from the inside.
> If your trying to add a window or door where there is none now I find it easier to cut off the nails at the top and bottom of the studs that need to come out, drive is a flat bar to move the stud away from the sheathing, cut those nails off and pop out the stud.
> Frame the opening making sure it's 100% square and then cutting out the sheathing.


Yes, it's 2x6 framed/osb...Do you cut the nails with the same blade?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Most sawzall blades will cut the random nail here and there. 

Another option would be a skillsaw, just don't use the best blade you own.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

1985gt said:


> Most sawzall blades will cut the random nail here and there.
> 
> Another option would be a skillsaw, just don't use the best blade you own.


Seems to me a skillsaw at least is designed to cut a straight line. Wouldn't it take a whole lot of skill or a miracle to get a straight line with a sawzall?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

onjtrainee said:


> Seems to me a skillsaw at least is designed to cut a straight line. Wouldn't it take a whole lot of skill or a miracle to get a straight line with a sawzall?


No not really, mark your corners, snap a line, drill a starter hole and go to town, just follow the line. If you angle it slightly like Joe mentioned you won't hit the framing. Or if you can you can use a longer blade and use the framing as a guide.


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

If you use a jigsaw, what's the matter with nailing a straight edge board to the OSB and using that for a guide? Seems to me you'd have a better chance of getting a straight cut than using a reciprocating saw.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1 There's no need for a 100% straight cut.
As long as he follows the framing on the inside and has a slight angle so the opening in not to small the brick molding and window tape will cover it up.
Advantages.
Not having to mark any lines, no having to figure out the blade off set guide, no having to set up a guide.
Cutting out an opening should be a 5 min. or less job.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

joecaption said:


> #1 There's no need for a 100% straight cut.
> As long as he follows the framing on the inside and has a slight angle so the opening in not to small the brick molding and window tape will cover it up.
> Advantages.
> Not having to mark any lines, no having to figure out the blade off set guide, no having to set up a guide.
> Cutting out an opening should be a 5 min. or less job.


Well, the trim would butt up against it, so guess it should be pretty square. 

Not sure what you mean about the angle.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

if your cutting out rough openings for doors and windows, a sawzall is plenty accurate enough, If you hit a nail with your skill saw it will trash the $10 blade in a half second. Hit a nail with a bi-metal blade in the sawzall and it will slow you down for a few seconds but will get thru it and keep cutting


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

By cutting at about a 5 deg. angle you'll be 100% sure the holes not to small.
Pain in the but to have to go back and cut out a small amount when trying to square up the window and it's hitting the sheathing.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

joecaption said:


> #1 There's no need for a 100% straight cut.
> As long as he follows the framing on the inside and has a slight angle so the opening in not to small the brick molding and window tape will cover it up.
> Advantages.
> Not having to mark any lines, no having to figure out the blade off set guide, no having to set up a guide.
> Cutting out an opening should be a 5 min. or less job.


I'd be willing to bet you could be as quick with a skill saw as you would a sawzall. 



Yodaman said:


> if your cutting out rough openings for doors and windows, a sawzall is plenty accurate enough, If you hit a nail with your skill saw it will trash the $10 blade in a half second. Hit a nail with a bi-metal blade in the sawzall and it will slow you down for a few seconds but will get thru it and keep cutting


Buy better blades, even a $10 one should stand up to the occasional nail hit.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

So NOBODY thinks go with a router? I'm just not that confident with a sawzall...they seem pretty unweildy for precision work. But I'll be out there practicing on something expendable first. Hopefully it's not the tool that gets destroyed!


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

I wouldn't use a router. 

A skillsaw or a sawzall will be fine it's done everyday like that. A sawzall can be a fairly accurate tool, I wouldn't build cabinets with it but cutting out a rough opening for a window or door I would in a heart beat.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Are you already framed and sheathed? Now it's time to cut the window openings? If so, get some good blades for the recip. I like Milwaukee and Lenox. Learn how to plunge cut. Use a long enough blade and use the framing as a guide. It may scratch up the framing, but by the time you wrap, install windows and casing, the scratches will be hidden by three layers of trim. I've tried several other ways (snapping lines, Skil saws, etc) and they are almost all more difficult.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

A router with a bottom piloted bit would work. But it'd be painfully slow and if you hit a nail, the bit'll be toast. And running a router horizontally on a ladder would be awful.

If the windows require standing on a ladder from the outside, I'd do them from the inside of the building. 2x6 framing's gonna make that a little tricky, though. Need a long sawzall blade.

If you want to work from the outside, drive a nail from the inside at each corner. Use the protruding nail to snap a line on the outside.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

ratherbefishing said:


> A router with a bottom piloted bit would work. But it'd be painfully slow and if you hit a nail, the bit'll be toast. And running a router horizontally on a ladder would be awful.
> 
> If the windows require standing on a ladder from the outside, I'd do them from the inside of the building. 2x6 framing's gonna make that a little tricky, though. Need a long sawzall blade.
> 
> If you want to work from the outside, drive a nail from the inside at each corner. Use the protruding nail to snap a line on the outside.


It's sheathed and framed, but doesn't have a second floor yet to do the french door opening and a window. I was hoping to have a porch on by now, but since it's become a DIY and only TRUSTED friends who have experience in the loup now, it's taking a while. I was thinking of doing this from the inside, making a landing that will come down later, like was done for the work on the cupola above it. That platform has really come in handy...a couple of 2x12 boards screwed into place.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

onjtrainee said:


> So NOBODY thinks go with a router? I'm just not that confident with a sawzall...they seem pretty unweildy for precision work. But I'll be out there practicing on something expendable first. Hopefully it's not the tool that gets destroyed!



trainee - you are not doing precision work, when you start doing counter tops and stain grade trim it will be time to pull out the router. 

FYI - the oscillator is a bad choice for cutting any thing thick, long or that may vibrate. 1/2" osb is not too thick but cutting 200 inches of it is. But if you already own one, try it, and you will learn quickly why.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Yodaman said:


> trainee - you are not doing precision work, when you start doing counter tops and stain grade trim it will be time to pull out the router.
> 
> FYI - the oscillator is a bad choice for cutting any thing thick, long or that may vibrate. 1/2" osb is not too thick but cutting 200 inches of it is. But if you already own one, try it, and you will learn quickly why.


I hear ya...I think I mentioned a Utube demo that looked like they were just tearing up a length of osb with various multi tools, but maybe I'm mistaken. Happens! I have an old makita sawzall my brother forgot last time he was here. I called him but he said, just keep it. Doesn't sound like him unless it's ready to come apart:wink: but guess I'll give it a try.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Drill some half inch holes in the corners, use a bi-metal blade about 9 to 12" long with a tapered point and about 10 to 14 TPI and rip it up! When you get comfortable with the saw try plunge cutting and then no need for starter holes.

good luck


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Is the trim measurement the same on all sides? Or is the bottom sill deeper? It's an old circa 1800 looking rustic cabin, so kind of want to keep it in that tradition, whatever that is. The rest of the sills were rock, but this needs to be cedar I think.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

You shoul not be cutting sheathing to fit trim. Trim goes on top of it.


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## A Squared (Dec 19, 2005)

onjtrainee said:


> Well, the trim would butt up against it, so guess it should be pretty square.


As far as I can tell, you're asking about cutting the sheathing on a rough opening for a window or door in a framed and sheathed wall, right? In that case, the trim will not butt up against your cut, your cut will be completely covered by the window and it's trim. Or it shouldn't anyway. 

As far as what tool to use, if you have a sawzall (reciprocating saw), I'd use that. I don't get the impression that you're doing this for a living, so we're not talking about a lot of openings. Some of the other posters have given you some good tips on how to do that. 

That said, a lot of pro framers use a router with a pilot panel bit. They're relatively cheap, compared to an edge finishing bit of similar quality. One advantage is that that's the only tool you need, no need to drill, no need to mark, the bit will make it's own hole by plunging, then the pilot portion of guides the router along the studs of the rough opening leaving a nice straight, square, flush edge along the rough opening. As far as the speed, I doubt that gives up much to a sawzall, a 1/2 inch router with some power is going to buzz through OSB sheathing pretty fast. Probably not as fast as a circular saw, but with the circular saw you have to mark lines, which takes time. The router you just pick it up and start cutting, and it gives your the most accurate cut, every time. 


Here's a video of cutting out a rough opening using a router


Here's a video of cutting out a rough opening with a recip saw

Not exactly scientific but it looks to me like the router is faster.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

A Squared said:


> Not exactly scientific but it looks to me like the router is faster.



Well if its speed we are after, there is always the chainsaw ,

probably more common than you would think


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

onjtrainee said:


> So NOBODY thinks go with a router? I'm just not that confident with a sawzall...they seem pretty unweildy for precision work. But I'll be out there practicing on something expendable first. Hopefully it's not the tool that gets destroyed!


Cutting a rough opening in a wall for a door or window doesn't require precision, such as you would need in cabinet making.
You need a straight cut in the sheathing only. Cut the framing away from the inside.
Circular saw will give you a decent cut as will a Reciprocating saw as long as you have the skill set.
For new windows/doors, frame out the interior and use the framing as a guide to cut the opening out with a Sawzall.
The Rockwell thing is a hobby tool at best.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Yodaman said:


> You shoul not be cutting sheathing to fit trim. Trim goes on top of it.


Sorry, didn't get notice you replied to this until I checked back just now. 

I'm not sure what you mean. The rough opening has to be the size of the window plus the dimension of the sill and sides and top, right? The cuts are made thru the OSB. Is that what you are calling sheathing, the OSB?


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

A Squared said:


> As far as I can tell, you're asking about cutting the sheathing on a rough opening for a window or door in a framed and sheathed wall, right? In that case, the trim will not butt up against your cut, your cut will be completely covered by the window and it's trim. Or it shouldn't anyway.
> 
> As far as what tool to use, if you have a sawzall (reciprocating saw), I'd use that. I don't get the impression that you're doing this for a living, so we're not talking about a lot of openings. Some of the other posters have given you some good tips on how to do that.
> 
> ...


THANK YOU! I knew I'd seen a router suggested for this somewhere. Looks to me personally like I'd do better with one of those. Too bad the first demo wasn't up close to really see. Not sure what kind of router he had. Any idea?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

onjtrainee said:


> THANK YOU! I knew I'd seen a router suggested for this somewhere. Looks to me personally like I'd do better with one of those. Too bad the first demo wasn't up close to really see. Not sure what kind of router he had. Any idea?


The only way you'll get a router to work is to cut holes inside the sheathing, next to the frame and use a piloted bit. Chips will be all over the place using this method.


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

*onjtrainee*

Hello. I've done mostly framing for the past 40 years. In the old days we would use a reciprocating saw, but not any more. A router is the way to go; it's much faster and more accurate. Make sure you do not nail the sheathing around the window before you make your cut to avoid hitting a nail. You don't need to drill a hole to start the cut. Pull your hammer out of your hammer loop and punch a hole in the sheathing. It's fast and easy!:thumbup:


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

ratherbefishing said:


> A router with a bottom piloted bit would work. But it'd be painfully slow and if you hit a nail, the bit'll be toast. And running a router horizontally on a ladder would be awful.
> 
> If the windows require standing on a ladder from the outside, I'd do them from the inside of the building. 2x6 framing's gonna make that a little tricky, though. Need a long sawzall blade.
> 
> Standing on a ladder to cut from the outside is not difficult; I've done it a gazillion times, and it's so much faster! I guess it might be a problem if a person is uncoordinated. In that case lay down a couple of saw horses with a 2/12 on top. If a person is afraid of heights then nail up a guard rail.:thumbup:


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> Hello. I've done mostly framing for the past 40 years. In the old days we would use a reciprocating saw, but not any more. A router is the way to go; it's much faster and more accurate. Make sure you do not nail the sheathing around the window before you make your cut to avoid hitting a nail. You don't need to drill a hole to start the cut. Pull your hammer out of your hammer loop and punch a hole in the sheathing. It's fast and easy!:thumbup:


Is one router as good as another? Is there one that would do better in this case? I like the control idea. From what I can see of the video, they start a screw in the inner corner to make the hole, back it out and go to there with the router.


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

Hello. I don't know how many holes you are cutting, but if it's just for one house I wouldn't worry about the brand. I have learned though that if your going to use one for a lot of framing then you should use a router that has a 1/2" chuck. Go to the pawn shop if your trying to get one cheap. My last router was a 1/2" Makita that I got for 20 bucks at an auction. If you have the location from the outside of the building to know where the window is then just bash a hole in the OSB to start the router bit. Simply banging on the wall will make it obvious where it is. Make use of that router whenever you can. When your sheathing your gable then use it there. Run the OSB wild. Avoid measuring and snapping lines as much as possible. No need for screws or pilot holes. Hint: When cutting from the outside you MUST cut in a clockwise manner.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> Hello. I don't know how many holes you are cutting, but if it's just for one house I wouldn't worry about the brand. I have learned though that if your going to use one for a lot of framing then you should use a router that has a 1/2" chuck. Go to the pawn shop if your trying to get one cheap. My last router was a 1/2" Makita that I got for 20 bucks at an auction. If you have the location from the outside of the building to know where the window is then just bash a hole in the OSB to start the router bit. Simply banging on the wall will make it obvious where it is. Make use of that router whenever you can. When your sheathing your gable then use it there. Run the OSB wild. Avoid measuring and snapping lines as much as possible. No need for screws or pilot holes. Hint: When cutting from the outside you MUST cut in a clockwise manner.


Will have easier access from the inside, at least on one window and door. I just have a few openings, maybe four windows and a french door. Does that change the direction I guess? Never heard that before..but your the first one who likes a router for this. Do you know anything about a Rockwell multitood 4 volt for this? That I do have, but maybe not the right bits...hoping to rule it out if it is out of the question. You are the first person to be enthusiastic about a router.


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

The direction is always the same when using the router. I thought I read somewhere that you were cutting the openings on the first story. 2 saw horses and a 2bi whatever plank on the horses should give you plenty of height to cut them out. I've cut a gazillion openings with a router and never had a problem. Bash a hole through the opening lean a step ladder against the wall and start cutting. It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. I know nothing about a multi tool. I won't tell anyone that your a girl, I promise.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> The direction is always the same when using the router. I thought I read somewhere that you were cutting the openings on the first story. 2 saw horses and a 2bi whatever plank on the horses should give you plenty of height to cut them out. I've cut a gazillion openings with a router and never had a problem. Bash a hole through the opening lean a step ladder against the wall and start cutting. It shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes. I know nothing about a multi tool. I won't tell anyone that your a girl, I promise.


I read just now about a twist bit, is that something to consider? Another site is really loving the routers...B&D 59109 and Amana 45510 seemed to get good kudos. I don't know where you get that girl part from. I may THROW like a girl:whistling2:


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

onjtrainee said:


> I read just now about a twist bit, is that something to consider? Another site is realy loving the routers...B&D 59109 and Amana 45510 seemed to get good cudos.


You buy tools with intended use in mind. There are homeowners tools, such as Craftsman and B&D and there are heavy use tools such as Porter Cable and Milwaukee. I've never heard of Amana routers. Refrigerators, yes, routers no.
You can probably get along with the homeowner category of tool unless you'll be using it on a regular basis.
If you want a lifelong experience, you can use the Rockwell. I doubt this will last through one window as this tool is of very poor quality. Someone bought the old Rockwell name and put it on some low end tool hoping it would fool people.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Ron6519 said:


> You buy tools with intended use in mind. There are homeowners tools, such as Craftsman and B&D and there are heavy use tools such as Porter Cable and Milwaukee. I've never heard of Amana routers. Refrigerators, yes, routers no.
> You can probably get along with the homeowner category of tool unless you'll be using it on a regular basis.
> If you want a lifelong experience, you can use the Rockwell. I doubt this will last through one window as this tool is of very poor quality. Someone bought the old Rockwell name and put it on some low end tool hoping it would fool people.


I hadn't heard that about Rockwell...but in the little use we gave it, I'd agree I'd hate to have to use it for more than punching out an electrical outlet. I'd just like something mid range expensive to get me thru this part of the project. I can wield a chainsaw if need be, but would prefer something with a little finesse. I thank everyone on this site for their contributions. :thumbup:


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

onjtrainee said:


> I read just now about a twist bit, is that something to consider? Another site is really loving the routers...B&D 59109 and Amana 45510 seemed to get good kudos. I don't know where you get that girl part from. I may THROW like a girl:whistling2:


 I don't know where I got that idea either. :whistling2: What size is the twist bit? Probably a little skinny one. You could use a 1/4" bit in a router, but it could break although it would probably make it through the small amount of windows your cutting. I've made them last for a couple of houses in a row; 30-40 openings, and that included cutting the sheathing from the gables.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented;2283273 What size is the twist bit? Probably a little skinny one. You could use a 1/4" bit in a router said:


> I copy/pasted this from Fine Homebuilding forum: Two routers amana and b&d
> 
> Amana tool #47130 + 47134 are both "up spiral", #47136 + 47138 are "down" spiral. They are all 1/2" shanks though. (800) 445-0077 I don't know if they will sell you a bit, but they should be able to point you to a local dealer.
> 
> ...


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

Sounds like they know what there talking about, but remember that the bigger the motor the more the router and router bits cost. A 1/4" shank will work for the small amount of openings you have to do. Get in your car naow and race to the pawn shop. Purchase a router and on the way home stop off at Ace hardware and purchase a carbide piloted flush cut trim bit. Race back to your house. Go into the garage and grab a step ladder lean it up against the house and start cutting. You'll probably get done before dark. I'll expect a reply before the sun sets.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> Sounds like they know what there talking about, but remember that the bigger the motor the more the router and router bits cost. A 1/4" shank will work for the small amount of openings you have to do. Get in your car naow and race to the pawn shop. Purchase a router and on the way home stop off at Ace hardware and purchase a carbide piloted flush cut trim bit. Race back to your house. Go into the garage and grab a step ladder lean it up against the house and start cutting. You'll probably get done before dark. I'll expect a reply before the sun sets.


I'd check out the pawn shops, but like to be able to take things back when they are not worthy. Most of the tools in the pawn shops around here are hot, or have checkered pasts. I like all you guys who think things can get done "snap!"
Must not be from Texas!


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

I can not figure out how to post my reply with a quote. I thought you would be half way to the pawn shop or the local tool place by now. No I'm not from Texas, but I used to have a girlfriend from there. I'm in northern Idaho in the Great Northwest. I've never had a problem with pawn shops around here. When your in the framing business you have to be fast to last or you sleep in the streets. No low bids equal no paycheck.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

After reading fermented posts, I'm on board with cutting the openings with a router. I'd try a bit that looks like this:
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02949675?rItem=02949675
No drilling, just plunge and cut. I've never cut 1/2" OSB with a bit like that, but I'd try spinning it with a good trim router, like a Bosch Colt. You're basically doing what drywallers do with a Rotozip. The smaller router would let you work one handed, in case you want to hold onto the ladder. But, it won't work from inside, the framing will be in the way. The piloted bit has to rub on the framing. 

With the router or the Sawzall, it's easier than you think. That Oscillating tool is a handy tool, but not for this job.


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

I think a trim router is to small for 1/2" OSB. Would probably burn up in no time. If I was a homeowner trying to do the job, I'd probably use the recip saw if I had one, but they were asking about a router.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> I can not figure out how to post my reply with a quote. I thought you would be half way to the pawn shop or the local tool place by now. No I'm not from Texas, but I used to have a girlfriend from there. I'm in northern Idaho in the Great Northwest. I've never had a problem with pawn shops around here. When your in the framing business you have to be fast to last or you sleep in the streets. No low bids equal no paycheck.


If it wasn't 100 degrees in the shade right now, i'd say comon down...we can use the help! I've runned off three crews already, don't get me started. Why I've turned DIY'er. No matter how long it takes me, it will at least be my bad if it's wrong. Not some hotshot know it all that the next guy has to fix his stuff, unitl that one goess off the rails. Never seen anything like it!


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

ratherbefishing said:


> After reading fermented posts, I'm on board with cutting the openings with a router. I'd try a bit that looks like this:
> http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/02949675?rItem=02949675
> No drilling, just plunge and cut. I've never cut 1/2" OSB with a bit like that, but I'd try spinning it with a good trim router, like a Bosch Colt. You're basically doing what drywallers do with a Rotozip. The smaller router would let you work one handed, in case you want to hold onto the ladder. But, it won't work from inside, the framing will be in the way. The piloted bit has to rub on the framing.
> 
> With the router or the Sawzall, it's easier than you think. That Oscillating tool is a handy tool, but not for this job.


Gotcha, well, I actually have a recip saw...was carting up blades on Amazon when i got side tracked by dreams of cutting butter with some kind of other tool. I like having a free hand, and even a skill saw I just watched on youtube might work better. I've never seen one designed like a racecar before..maybe they've improved the ergonomic/design and that actually might be the ticket.


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

Man, you sound like you'd be hard to work for running off three crews and all. I'm retired now and out of shape to be doing any framing. Now I just sit on the computer and do Youtube video's on tricks and tips on carpentry framing. Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/user/jelquer/videos I got some tricks that no one ever seen before.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> Man, you sound like you'd be hard to work for running off three crews and all. I'm retired now and out of shape to be doing any framing. Now I just sit on the computer and do Youtube video's on tricks and tips on carpentry framing. Check it out: https://www.youtube.com/user/jelquer/videos I got some tricks that no one ever seen before.


Yeah, I'm sure that's what they tell everybody. One guy slept til noon cause he was up all nite we don't ask why, his brother leaned on the porch half a day waiting on him, then they really got stuff done! Drove me crazy. Next one cut the rough opening (yes, the one I'm trying to fix) without consideration of the trim...which is why I asked what the clearance should be for that on a circa 1800 Sunday house. The first one's I just had a hunch about. While putting up the new stucco wrap I see where they Tyvek'ed over a blank hole on the wall...no kidding. I'll be figuring out how to re route the pvc vent they put on the outside of the framing next.

Anyway, enjoyed your input. I'll check out your tips..I'm sure they are great!


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

Thanks! Don't forget to give me a thumbs up!


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> Thanks! Don't forget to give me a thumbs up!


Thumbs up on the straightedge! Couldn't find mine the other day...only thing I'd suggest is maybe make the volume a bit louder. Had a little trouble hearing you. Looks like it will be fun to check out your other tips!


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

Thanks! I have a new camera and still learning. "Thumbs up on the straightedge! Couldn't find mine the other day..." You mean your level I presume.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

fermented said:


> Thanks! I have a new camera and still learning. "Thumbs up on the straightedge! Couldn't find mine the other day..." You mean your level I presume.


Quite right, Watson!

Oh, it's easy to get the quote's you want to reference...just click on "QUOTE" next to EDIT below your post. My tip for you!


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## fermented (Jul 20, 2015)

I wonder if it's Ok with the moderators to go back and forth off subject. Some sites don't like it. You could post messages on the comments page under the video if you have a GooTube channel, or instant message me.


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