# Bathroom Renovation



## Mop in Hand (Feb 5, 2009)

Will this tub also be used as a shower? Is the drywall down over the flabge of the tub? If so is the flange holding the drywall away from the wall? Is the tub slightly small than the old one?


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Why are you putting drywall on the wet area walls instead of a cement backer board product? 
Be safe, Gary


----------



## ranapratab (Sep 28, 2009)

Thank you for your replies.

_"Will this tub also be used as a shower? Is the drywall down over the flabge of the tub? If so is the flange holding the drywall away from the wall? Is the tub slightly small than the old one?"_
Yes it will serve as both. No I had put the drywall on the flange but there isn't much room for the drywall and tiles to sit on the tub surround hence took off the drywall over the flange. The bath tub is the same size only difference is metal to acrylic.



GBR in WA said:


> Why are you putting drywall on the wet area walls instead of a cement backer board product?
> Be safe, Gary


I am using a mold and moisture resistant drywall instead of a cement board.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

ranapratab said:


> Thank you for your replies.
> 
> _"Will this tub also be used as a shower? Is the drywall down over the flabge of the tub? If so is the flange holding the drywall away from the wall? Is the tub slightly small than the old one?"_
> Yes it will serve as both. No I had put the drywall on the flange but there isn't much room for the drywall and tiles to sit on the tub surround hence took off the drywall over the flange. The bath tub is the same size only difference is metal to acrylic.
> ...


And that is all drywall is - resistant
Tiling will not form a barrier against water. it will still get in - possibly only as vapor at 1st
But the sheetrock will usually fall apart over time & mold will grow in the meantime


----------



## ranapratab (Sep 28, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> And that is all drywall is - resistant
> Tiling will not form a barrier against water. it will still get in - possibly only as vapor at 1st
> But the sheetrock will usually fall apart over time & mold will grow in the meantime


Thank you for your reply Scuba_Dave, I was inclined towards replacing the cement board but did not for 2 reasons, 1 exisiting bathroom had a regular drywall which was tiled, we have been in the house close to 6 years and did not have any leak nor was there any mold (had to tear down due to constant nagging for looks ) and 2 the big store sales man recommded the mold and mositure resistant drywall. I would say a bathroom's life would be 15/20 years and will have to renovate after, wouldn't the drywall hold for 15/20? Anyways it would not be a hard right now as only the drywalls are up! Although would like to clarify: the cement board is only where the bathtub is? how high does it have to be? should the cement board be over the bathtub lip? ... and that would not solve my origianl question as to how can I fit the tiles if the lip is smaller than the cement board and the tiles to be installed?

I went through your post of renovating your house and you have done an awesome job.

I have 2 more questions please.
1. Your bathroom why didn't your tiles go up all the way to the ceiling? is it cosmetic or there is a reason behind it?
2. What is the black line besides the bathtub and the tiles? Is it a opening?

Thank you.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

My last house the bathroom was renovated by the prior owners
When I took it apart ~8 years after their renovation there was black mold, sheetrock was falling apart & sub floor/studs & joists were damaged
Water can do some real damage in a sort period of time

This house I redid the bathroom 2 years after purchase - again maybe 8-10 years after it was last renovated
This time better shape, but same story
Black mold growing, sheetrock in bad shape, small section of top sub-floor rotted

I put cement board all around the tub & up almost to the shower outlet
So about 53" up from the tub & 6' total from the floor
I tiled all the way to the ceiling at my last house
This house I preferred to keep the tile lower & put the bullnose tile up top
I like the contract between tile & the darker blue wall

The dark line you mention is actually blue tile trim


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

ranapratab said:


> Installed new bathtub, plumbing, leveled the bathtub with / without water etc..
> 
> The challenge I am facing is replacing the drywall. There was no insullation so I put insulation and a moisture barrier before putting up the drywall. The drywall when installed seems to be at a slant on the left side of the bathtub! I am going to put ceramic tiles 13x13 on the walls and would not look good if they are not in line with the bathtub edges.


Do you have a level & can you check to see if the studs are level?
Usually the drywall/cement board will end above the lip of the tub
Then the tile will extend down past the drywall/cement board to the tub 
This keeps the wall board from soaking up water that may get behind the tile at the bottom edge

In my case the tub was spaced out from the studs....3/8" ..I think
This allowed the wall cement board I used to just hang over the edge of the tub lip

Pic I found online sort of explains this
The cement board will also not seal against water. So it must be covered
In this pic it was covered with Kerdi
Instead of the cement surround you would only have the top of the tub
They do show Kerdi covering sheetrock - making the installation waterproof













ranapratab said:


> should the cement board be over the bathtub lip? ... and that would not solve my origianl question as to how can I fit the tiles if the lip is smaller than the cement board and the tiles to be installed?
> 
> I went through your post of renovating your house and you have done an awesome job.
> 
> Thank you.


If your tub is on place then have the wall board end above the lip as in the pic

Thanks for comment on my work
I'm still learning a lot, especially about tile work
I have a Master Bath to put together, there are a lot of Pro's on here that have detailed what I have explained
I'm merely trying to repeat what I have read...some may not be exact

-Dave


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

The use of greenboard (moisture resistant drywall) became a violation of building codes around January of 2006. Greenboard has proven to be more problematic [in wet areas] than it is usefull. It will take years for the building code printed publications to catch up. In the meantime suffice it to say the use of greenboard in a shower or tub surround has become history and a lesson learned. 

This is not to say there are not wet areas using greenboard that do survive, but one should (in my thinking) comply with the current building codes when the opportunity presents itself.


----------



## Mop in Hand (Feb 5, 2009)

Please keep in mind the Scuba's drawing shows the Kerdi down over the lip of the tub, which provides a moisture barrier over the lip. If I were installing a cbu, I would furr out the walls, install the cbu over the lip (but 1/4" above the tub) and then Redgard to provide the moisture barrier. I'm not sure of what "black line" you are refering to. As far as the tile going all the way to the ceiling or not, I've done them both ways. Tiling all the way to the top, I believe provides more of a moisture barrier. After all, isn't that what it's all about in bath/shower?


----------

