# build my own load bearing beam



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

you cant build something that will equal a lvl... when your told to use a lvl by a inspector you use a lvl no questions asked unless you have a engineer spec something with a letter with his seal on it..


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Disassemble and add glue.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Disassemble and add glue.


even with doing that.. he'll still need a engineer to sign off on it to over rule the inspector


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Yeah any time I have an inspection issue, I don't question it, just do it. It's easier in the long run and not worth the stress. Sure you can debate with him. But is it worth it? Some of the inspectors can be real bears. In the end he has the final say. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Besides, screws are not allowed for in structural applications unless they are specified by and Engineer and are of the right type. Decking screws don't cut it. They fail in shear.


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Through-bolts would be much stronger than screws.

But I doubt that would satisfy a "by the book" inspector.
.
.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Get 2) 1-3/4" X 11-7/8" lvls. and nail the h3ll out of them. I'm sure that's what he meant anyways. They stock those at menards and probably home depot and lowes. Otherwise your local lumber yard. Huge difference between made up LVL beams and dimensional beams.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Hi JohnSt, and despite our disagreement, welcome to the forum.
Unfortunately all of the above rejection is spot on, you should have used the LVL as he stated. Asking him to accept your assembly puts his job on the line if it were to fail. That is why they advise a known tested product or require an engineers signature to allow something different. Rules of the road, install the LVL and move on.

Best,
Bud


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

My building inspector would never specify a beam, that would suggest he was accepting responsibility for the design, which he would not do. The only exception would be if there was a specific provision in the code that specified a particular size beam for a specific application, which is pretty unusual. Joists and headers for doors are quite different, there are typically standard sizes for room types and spans in the code.

I am not certain you understand the difference between a home made beam and an LVL. An LVL is an engineered structure, built in a controlled environment, and rigorously tested to make sure it supports the required load. A home made beam such as you describe is untested, and cannot readily be demonstrated to have a particular strength. My suggestion is that you discuss the issue with the inspector, with luck he will tell you exactly what you need to do to demonstrate that your beam is adequately strong. If he declines to allow you to use your beam, you have few options. Either you get an engineer to approve your beam, you swap it out for the specified LVL beam, or you violate your permit. The last option could get you in serious trouble, you may want to consider buying the specified beam.


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## JohnSt (May 16, 2017)

Ok heard everyone and I guess the LVL will have to be used. But what did we do before we had LVL beams? When building a hundred years ago people had openings 13 feet or more and they put in beams. I built my open house with openings large then this by using 2 X 10 's and lots of 3/4 inch plywood. You would think that making a monster beam with additional 2 X 12's or something would work. Wish I knew how to read those structual tables on lumber. Thanks.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

JohnSt said:


> Ok heard everyone and I guess the LVL will have to be used. But what did we do before we had LVL beams? When building a hundred years ago people had openings 13 feet or more and they put in beams. I built my open house with openings large then this by using 2 X 10 's and lots of 3/4 inch plywood. You would think that making a monster beam with additional 2 X 12's or something would work. Wish I knew how to read those structual tables on lumber. Thanks.


The difference of then and now.

Those houses built 100 years ago are still standing and were affordable. The houses built now with all the added cost of engineering, codes and inspections aren't affordable and won't be standing in 50 years.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

JohnSt, I agree most of us have built our own beams at times and I know of a few that I put together that are monsters, but they had no certification. Had they been challenged I would have been in trouble.

Daniel's point about an inspector not specifying materials might give you a discussion point if you decide to talk with yours. It might come down to how gently you make your presentation. They have the power to say yes or no.
A video, I didn't watch it.
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Build-A-Glued-Laminated-Wood-Beam/

Bud


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

There is absolutely nothing wrong using built up beams, they have been used for thousands of years. Modern structural theory actual began about three hundred years ago, so the ability to analyze built up beams for strength is not a new discovery. One major difference from a hundred years ago is that there were few if any building codes, and virtually no inspection of residential construction a hundred years ago. So most construction was done by carpenters who apprenticed to another carpenter, and used methods handed down by previous generations of carpenters. And the good carpenters built good houses, some of which are still standing. And the bad carpenters built weak houses, virtually all of which are long gone from the planet.

In your case, you can certainly use a built up beam if you know how to analyze it, and can show the analysis to the building inspector. Otherwise you need to use what the inspector wants.


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## Mrbuilder (Nov 15, 2016)

JohnSt, Have you ever heard the old adage, "ya can't fight city hall" ? Some times we allow our pride to get in the way when making decisions to fight a battle. It has been my experience to do what an inspector wants if, it's within reason. ie: adding simpson ties to rafter contact with top plate, even if it's not written into code yet, as an example. Consider the amount of labor to construct your own beam, versus picking one up at the yard. My advice to you is to smile, and say "you got it sir, that's what I'll do, I appreciate your advice". You will find him much easier to get along with in the future as your project progresses. 

just sayin:vs_cool:


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

there have been countless built up beams from conventional lumber used on houses for hundreds of years.. did the house still stand yes.. was it still level and straight hell no.. they sag under the live and dead loads.. lvl wont sag..


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

After you're told 11-7/8", you couldn't have at least used 2 x12's? :smile:

If you had of made 2x12's, tripled, and properly nailed, you may have had a chance.

Get the LVL's.
They're not too expensive and they are always straight and true.
Fantastic pieces to work with.
Fasten together with *proper *screws.

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNEg6hh_6IB7fsKJ_N96vB8xv_zmPA&cad=rja


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

even 2x12's dont match the strenght of lvl, lvls are much stronger than regular wood. old growth wood doesnt even match it.. todays lumber is faster drying and not as strong or stable..


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

woodworkbykirk said:


> even 2x12's dont match the strenght of lvl, lvls are much stronger than regular wood. old growth wood doesnt even match it.. todays lumber is faster drying and not as strong or stable..



My point was going 2-5/8" thinner is a sure fire way to pee off the inspector.:surprise:

Nothing beats LVL's for sure. Well, steel beams are nice too.
I used them both in my house build.


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## bok (May 11, 2017)

HIRE an engineer


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

"My inspector....." This is because that inspector knows you and your standards.:smile: The OP has no standards nor his judgement tempered by any known experience. This is why inspection is an important part of the process. This was relatively cheap learning.:smile: Would've been free if the OP asked first. 

Excuse this delirium (news junky past few weeks), but just look at trump for having superman fantasies.:vs_mad::vs_mad:


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Forgot and may be important to the OP. The jack studs should be min 2 2x (for bearing surface), and the posts should be on the 2x plate, and the floor bay underneath must be filled with tight 2x (end grain) that carry the load to the properly supported beam or foundation. If one or both posts end up on unsupported middle of a beam, the beam must be evaluated. I assume your inspector checked this.


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