# Egress window dimensions



## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

In case I'm not making sense, would a window like this be code compliant if it was 29 x47 total?


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

The importsnt thing is not the total size of the glazing, but the open area without detroying half the window.

I think there are also requirements for the openong size singe part of the requirements is to let in a firefighter with a tank.

Any responsible window supplier meets the national requirements for an egress window. If they do nnot certify it, do not buy it and look for another brand. - There are no secrets to qualifying windows.

On other thing that is important is the height above the finsihed floor for the sill when open. This is to permit children to get out, but the maximum can vary slightly according to jurisdictions. I have seen people delay putting down carpeting before the inspectio because they were to close for such an easy measurement.

Call your local code office for requirements even if you do not need a permit. If you go to sell, the area served as an egress for that window does not qualify, that area may not be included in the liveable square footage and your appraisal can be less. - That means more finacing problems for buyers.


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Thanks for the advice. We have the window cut-out set at 42" above the finished floor. (All of which is above grade on the outside-- our foundation is exposed several feet on the back exterior of the house). Did all the homework and spoke with our municipal code official before planning it. Our township requires an inspection to certify the finished product before approving the space as a bedroom, so we will be having an inspector in before laying the carpet. 

At this point my main confusion was exactly what that 5.7 square feet entailed. So are you saying that the part of the window that opens into the outdoors must be 5.7 square feet? (sorry if I misunderstood, again, just trying to keep everything straight).


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

The square footage is determined by measuring the clear space of the opening you have to crawl through. So, open the window fully and take your measurements.

Based on the picture, the window sash is being tilted in, which is not a complaint means of obtaining egress on a double hung window. The way it is measured is to raise the sash as you would normally operate the window. Egress must be achieved by normal operation of the window, and without special tools or knowledge or disassembly of the window. If the codes official accepts removal of the sash for egress, he's screwing up.

Sliding it up is how egress is obtained. 

The opening only has to be 5.7 square feet if it is above grade, like on a 2nd story bedroom. On a first floor bedroom the IRC code requires 5.0 square feet. That's because there's less chance for a ladder rescue.

The minimum dimensions concretemasonry mentioned are 20" wide, and 24" tall. That doesn't mean that you can do 20x24 instead of 5.7 square feet, it just establishes minimum width and height. 

It takes a BIG double hung window to meet egress. It is common though. Many people choose casement windows for egress purposes just to keep the size of the window down.


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Thanks- I was actually just looking at casement windows in the time between posting this question and getting your responses. I think I've got it now, but just to be sure-- I just found an anderson casement window that is 24 4/8 by 35 15/16. If we were to have it installed within 44" of the finished floor, (mark is currently at 42 just to be safe), would that comply with standard code? (I know townships vary slightly, but mine requires a 20 x 24 with 5.7 sf opening within 44" of floor, so I've gathered that's standard). Thanks again, Mary


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

This is the exact window model I'm talking about, just for reference


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Can't tell from the basic window dimensions. Remember, you're measuring the opening. With a casement, the sash encroaches into the opening, so you measure from the sash when open at 90 degrees over to the opposite side of the frame horizontally. 

You should be able to look at Andersen's website and check the egress opening dimensions of the specific size of window you're looking at.

Like I said, if this is a first floor window, your inspector should allow 5.0 square feet and shouldn't require 5.7. You might clarify that with them if you end up being close.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Based on the dimensions you provided, I seriously doubt this window will work for you.

To simplify, if the egress opening is 24x35"...Which I don't think it is...

24x35 = 840 square inches
840 divided by 144 (square inches per square foot) = 5.8 square feet.

Take the sash into account, and the actual opening, and that window is too small.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

http://www.andersenwindows.com/serv...es&tableftnav=Egress & Opening Specifications 

Here's the entire list of their windows, showing clear opening on the left of the chart.
http://www.andersenwindows.com/serv...goBlobs&blobwhere=1200271475466&ssbinary=true


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> Based on the dimensions you provided, I seriously doubt this window will work for you.
> 
> To simplify, if the egress opening is "...Which I don't think it is...
> 
> ...


We don't have an actual opening yet, but do have dimensions drawn onto the interior concrete wall. (The exterior foundation is exposed several feet above ground in the rear of the basement) We're currently in the process of choosing a mason to cut out the necessary area.

That being said, do you mean that an egress opening of 35" by 45" is probably too small to accommodate a code-compliant casement window when sills etc. are considered? If so, could you possibly give me any kind of direction on which way to go from here? I'm trying my best to abide by codes while renovating our basement, but it's frustrating knowing so little about the intricacies of the subject. Any help painting the answer to this question in black and white would be SO very appreciated.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Black and white? Ha! :laughing: Sometimes code is a big gray area, but not in this case. :no:

35x45 is a pretty good sized rough opening. I seriously doubt that you'll be able to get 5.7sqft with a double hung in that opening though. I'd really look at a casement instead, and you should have *no trouble* getting one to work. 

Please clarify...Is the opening there now, or are you creating an opening in an existing concrete or block wall?

Be sure to have your mason leave room for the installation of some 2x material on all four sides of the window opening, because you'll need something to attach the window to. I'd recommend having the window on site before cutting the hole! Custom ordered windows can be hard to return if they don't fit.

Let me know what series of Andersen (or other brand) casement you'd like, and I'll help you determine if it will meet.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

ClnlBrahm said:


> We don't have an actual opening yet, but do have dimensions drawn onto the interior concrete wall. (The exterior foundation is exposed several feet above ground in the rear of the basement) We're currently in the process of choosing a mason to cut out the necessary area.
> 
> That being said, do you mean that an egress opening of 35" by 45" is probably too small to accommodate a code-compliant casement window when sills etc. are considered? If so, could you possibly give me any kind of direction on which way to go from here? I'm trying my best to abide by codes while renovating our basement, but it's frustrating knowing so little about the intricacies of the subject. Any help painting the answer to this question in black and white would be SO very appreciated.


with a ANDERSON window The window size is going to be CW## anythng with an X is going to be Egress window like CXW## 
I keep all my second floor windows @ 36" above finished floor.
Hope this helps BOB


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Thanks everyone for your input. I think we've got it figured out, after having consultations with masons we're choosing from. We're using a 25 x 35" casement window, which will be 40 inches from the finished floor. (Ended up choosing a Pella instead of Anderson) KC- here's a link to the window we plan on having installed. I'm pretty sure it meets codes, but wouldn't mind the experienced opinion. Thanks!

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=110635-1257-PC2WEAS2535L&lpage=none


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

ClnlBrahm said:


> Thanks everyone for your input. I think we've got it figured out, after having consultations with masons we're choosing from. We're using a 25 x 35" casement window, which will be 40 inches from the finished floor. (Ended up choosing a Pella instead of Anderson) KC- here's a link to the window we plan on having installed. I'm pretty sure it meets codes, but wouldn't mind the experienced opinion. Thanks!
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=110635-1257-PC2WEAS2535L&lpage=none


According to Pella that window you have chosen does not meet EGREES! Go with the 3535 or the 2541 or 3541, 2941 good luck BOB


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Hi Bob- I can't understand how it wouldn't... if I'm not mistaken, it would have over 6 square feet of free exit space when opened, and the minimum is 5.7. It would be 35 inches high, and the minimum is 24. And it would be 25 inches wide, and the minimum is 20. I'm not sure how that doesn't qualify...? (I mean, I can understand if Pella doesn't advertise it as a standard egress, but it still meets the dimensions set by code).

The reason for that dimension and window type in particular is that we have a very exact space to work with. There are 50 inches of exposed concrete on the outside of the foundation (Height from the grass to where the concrete meets the ceiling joists on the interior wall of the basement) We plan to work in that space so that a window well is not necessary. We also have to leave 12 inches of concrete between the top of the concrete wall and the top of the window cut. (obviously, the bigger the cut, the higher the estimate, so instead of cutting from the top of the concrete down, we are leaving enough space so that those 12 inches can support themselves. (The house in supported by some sort of horizontal reinforcement bar, so we've been told by several masons that cutting into this type of setup will not effect the integrity of the house structure). Since the window can't be more than 44 inches off the ground per code,we are working with the space between that top cut and the 44 inch mark. 

Sorry for such a long response, but I wanted to make the situation as clear as possible for you in case I am missing something. I obviously don't want to end up with an egress that doesn't pass code. Thanks again


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Keep in mind that the there are at least 3 requirements to be acceptable and all must be met. This applies to the window whwn it is opened, not the hole you make in a wall to install it.

1. Minimum width.
2. Minimum height.
3. Open area.

If you exceed the minimum height and width, you still have to have enough area to get through, so one or both of the dimensions will have to be exceeded to allow the person to twist and turn to get in or out.

Kids can get out IF the sill is low enough, but you must also be able the get a fireman (with an air tank) in to fight a fire and make rescues. It has been determined that 5.7 sf is adequate if you twist emough.

The code is not written to be easy for your structure or site, but for life safety.

If your manufacturer does not say it is legal, you will have a difficult proving it with a tape measure and a couple of "what ifs" after it is in and the inspector is there.

Dick


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Ok, I understand. Could someone tell me how to find out which are and aren't? I understand the dimensions, but the window I chose does meet and exceed those dimensions... so now I don't know what to go on. Bob, how were you able to find out that Pella didn't consider that an egress window? I looked at the site and couldn't find any type of reference material. Thanks again


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

How about this one? I just talked to another mason who said sliders were fine too. Would something like this work if the glass was easily removabale without tools? Or not. I really do appreciate all this help. THanks 
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=220459-1257-220459&lpage=none


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Or this one- because the height would be 36 and the width would be 24? (and the open square footage would be 6)
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=219832-1257-219832&lpage=none


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Just find a window that is advertised/certified to meet the egress requirements. This provides you with the certification for the inspector and eliminates the nit-picking measurement after it is installed. This should not be too hard since it is done daily everywhere to meet the national standards. If the manufacturer will not rate it, don't buy it.

Then just have it installed with the bottom of the opening at the maximum height from the floor to meet the local requirements. Code people will do everything possible to avoid the time and problems of addressing something that is already installed if you personally talk to them, so they gladly give requirements and suggestions.

No one is going to change the requirements just because of how your wall is built.

Certainly, the last person to ask about which egress window to buy is a mason contractor.


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Ok, thank you much! Now, I'm sure this question is dumb, but I'm really having trouble figuring out how to determine where on a website the manufacturer discusses egress compliancy. I hoped to buy the window at a place like Lowes... if at all possible I need to avoid having to special order something in the interest of time. Would the consultant at Lowe's be able to tell me what worked and what didn't?


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

ClnlBrahm said:


> Ok, I understand. Could someone tell me how to find out which are and aren't? I understand the dimensions, but the window I chose does meet and exceed those dimensions... so now I don't know what to go on. Bob, how were you able to find out that Pella didn't consider that an egress window? I looked at the site and couldn't find any type of reference material. Thanks again


Sorry for the long delay, The motor went on one of the work trucks. If you go to the pella web site there you will find which window meets the Egress requirements. I believe they are marked with an E .


Ok read your last post try this link scroll down to the Egress Notes, This will answer all your questions . BOBhttp://web.pella.com/products/SizesDoc/Documents/casement_proline_sizes.pdf


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

You guys are an enormous help, thank you. I'll go find one with the information you've given me and stop back just to be doubly sure. Thanks again! Mary


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

Ok, I'm understanding the Pella product index as far as egress markings, however I'm having trouble finding the same kind of marking system on Anderson. Could anyone tell me if this is a code-compliant Anderson casement: CW15L*
*


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

ClnlBrahm said:


> Ok, I'm understanding the Pella product index as far as egress markings, however I'm having trouble finding the same kind of marking system on Anderson. Could anyone tell me if this is a code-compliant Anderson casement: CW15L


No! Anderson uses the letter X for there Egress Windows here is there link http://www.andersenwindows.com/_PDFs/AW/AWDocs/apg_pdf/AW400Casement_Awning.pdf
Hpoe this helps BOB


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## ClnlBrahm (Sep 1, 2008)

_No! Anderson uses the letter X for there Egress _

I'm sorry if I'm asking questions with seemingly simple answers, I'm really just trying to learn the ropes. Honestly, if this is a forum ahead of my experience, I understand... just let me know. I definitely do not want to frustrate anybody with my 'novice-ness' lol. Thanks for the anderson 'x' advice. I'll look further into the site. Thanks, Mary


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

ClnlBrahm said:


> _No! Anderson uses the letter X for there Egress _
> 
> I'm sorry if I'm asking questions with seemingly simple answers, I'm really just trying to learn the ropes. Honestly, if this is a forum ahead of my experience, I understand... just let me know. I definitely do not want to frustrate anybody with my 'novice-ness' lol. Thanks for the anderson 'x' advice. I'll look further into the site. Thanks, Mary


Not a problem! where here to help. try the link in the above post. It will help you understand. BOB


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## deepresto (Dec 12, 2010)

I would just like to say here, that my building plans were plan-checked _twice, _I double-checked with the bldng. inspector and the window company about the size of the window, had it installed, trimmed and sided and now another bldng. inspector says it doesn't meet egress. The window company is sorry (but they will give me a new window), everyone is sorry but it is going to be an expensive & painful re-install.
Moral of story: be damn sure you have it right before you put it in


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