# May have bad CV joint. 1.5mm play



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

It could work fine for years. If it bugs you, replace it. Until it snaps every five feet it's no big deal.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

I dont want to replace it just cuz it may annoy me, but if ignoring it can cause other irreperable harm, like say, wear on another part. As long as it doeant have a tendancy to cause other wear, yes, I wont worry about it. Thats the big question.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Most people don't even know they are bad until they get their tires or brakes done so they run for a good while before going catastrophically bad. 

I have seen the carnage when they grenade and it isn't pretty. 

They aren't expensive and depending on the vehicle, you can do them in about an hour so if you have the tools and the time, I would do it.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Hardest part will be getting the hub nut off. Impact wrench helps a lot.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

The wife's minivan just came back from the dealer after having both CV joints and the short shaft replaced....Honda Odyssey...2007.....less than 67K miles.....I'm not a big fan of extended warranties....but I bought it in this case and it's paid off....it also included a rental car for the 3 days they had it in for repair....

More direct on topic....the CV joint issue was only minor clicking when turning...but the big problem was the shimmy at speeds between 30-55....it was actually getting scary....I thought something else was wrong.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I am not any auto mechanic, and don't know your car, but many years ago my wife's FWD developed a bad CV.

Dealer wanted $1500. 

Bought two new axel assembly's from Auto Zone (after market) for $250, and got on the internet for instructions/tips (Haynes does not make Lexus manuals), and job took me maybe 4 hours total.... *surprizingly easy*... and I'm slow.

My symptoms were the same as Dawgs, with pronounced clicking when sharp turning at slow speed and a shimmy at moderate speed.Plus I could see the broken boot.

Good luck


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> with pronounced clicking when sharp turning at slow speed and a shimmy at moderate speed.


All you had to do was avoid slow and moderate speeds.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Oso954 said:


> All you had to do was avoid slow and moderate speeds.


OSO.... I like your thinken.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Best


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Thaks, people. Geez- are you sure this will take , one post above- an hour? No way. To do it right,. take your time, I think a half day. Still, thats not a big problem. I have a shop manual and Haynes (believe it or not, sometimes the haynes is BETTER than the shop manual- it has pictures!!)

I might do it. Time to price a cv joint on ebay......or rock auto.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

noquacks said:


> Thaks, people. Geez- are you sure this will take , one post above- an hour? No way. To do it right,. take your time, I think a half day. Still, thats not a big problem. I have a shop manual and Haynes (believe it or not, sometimes the haynes is BETTER than the shop manual- it has pictures!!)
> 
> I might do it. Time to price a cv joint on ebay......or rock auto.



If you have done them before, they don't take that long.

Need a good sized prybar, suspension fork, impact wrench and large hub socket.

I have seen guys do then in 15 minutes in a garage and I have personally done them in 30 minutes off of pump jacks.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Hub nut is a bastard. 32 or 34 mm. It will NOT want to come off a 25+ year old car. Popping the half axle off is easy. Even a big screw driver will do it. Very diy.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> Hub nut is a bastard. 32 or 34 mm. It will NOT want to come off a 25+ year old car. Popping the half axle off is easy. Even a big screw driver will do it. Very diy.


Noquack...Don't know who'll have best price, but AutoZone will lend you that hub socket that Big references... and he's dead on... you'll want a cheater on it.

Good luck


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Replace the seal too. It will be falling apart when you pop the half shaft off anyway.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

CV joints are designed to have controlled movement in them.
If you have cluckaty clickety going over speed bumps, as in boom-boom twice, once car going up and once car going down - it's sway bar bushings.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> Replace the seal too. It will be falling apart when you pop the half shaft off anyway.


What seal? Will it come with the new axle? Whats the name of this seal? Also, will I have to unscrew the massive 2 bolts holding the struts/shocks? 
Thanks


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> Hub nut is a bastard. 32 or 34 mm. It will NOT want to come off a 25+ year old car. Popping the half axle off is easy. Even a big screw driver will do it. Very diy.


What about if I heat it with propane? Then have a log pry bar, and stand on it?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Where the half shaft goes into the tranny there is a seal. Costs about 10 buck. It is a rubber ring. Get a seal puller, pull it out. Tap the new in.
Hub nut usually requires a 3/4 inch breaker bar and four foot pipe. Try not to heat it. Heat can destroy the wheel bearing.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Usually you don't have to mess with struts. Undo the ball joint, take off the hub nut and bearing assembly and you have enough room get it out. Put a prybar or even big screw driver between the tranny and half shaft and pop it out. Lots of youtube vids on how to do it. Very diy job.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> Where the half shaft goes into the tranny there is a seal. Costs about 10 buck. It is a rubber ring. Get a seal puller, pull it out. Tap the new in.
> Hub nut usually requires a 3/4 inch breaker bar and four foot pipe. Try not to heat it. Heat can destroy the wheel bearing.


Ohhhh, a tranny seal- I get it. definitely gotta put in new once youre in there. Thanks, Man!

Good to know I wont have to remove strut bolts.


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Some cars don't need you to separate the steering knuckle... Try to get the axle out first before you do a lot of unnecessary work that requires a front end alignment.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Every GM car i have ever worked on requires the steering knuckle to be disconnected. Autozone has online manuals. You might want to check it out.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Easiest way is to do it just as Bigplanz stated by pulling the spindle/steering knuckle from the control arm. Quick and painless and does not require any re-alignment of the vehicle.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Yeah if you don't touch the struts you won't need an alignment. GM cars from that era are easy to work on. Half axles come right out. I am assuming it has a bolt on ball joint. Probably rivets at the factory but surely they've been replaced by now.

If it's a tigbt squeeze turn the steering wheel to move the hub enough to pull the half shaft spindle out of the knuckle..


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