# Installing Cabinets against/into door moulding/casing



## DanBress (Oct 31, 2007)

I have a really small kitchen, and after buying my cabinets, I am realizing that everything will fit a little bit nicer if I can move the cabinets an inch or two down the wall. The problem is there is a door here with 3 inch moulding/casing around it. I am thinking of removing the moulding where the cabinets are to give them that extra two inches of room. This only applies to my bottom cabinets. Would anyone think this is a bad idea for any reason?


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

make sure there is a filler strip against the wall so to open drawers and doors with slide out trays. you should remove the casing on that side only then install you base cabinets and top then scribe and cut your casing and reinstall. its been done before.BOB


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## DanBress (Oct 31, 2007)

buletbob said:


> make sure there is a filler strip against the wall so to open drawers and doors with slide out trays.


I'm not sure what you mean here. The side of my cabinet(not the front) will hit the door, so the cabinet doors/drawers should not interfere. The door opens out, not into the room so that shouldn't interfere either.




buletbob said:


> you should remove the casing on that side only then install you base cabinets and top then scribe and cut your casing and reinstall. its been done before.BOB


How would you recommend cutting the casing to reinstall? A scroll saw or band saw would probably make sense, but I have neither.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

It is not an accurate concept to try and "estimate" the amount of space you need (to encroach into the door casing area), prior to installing the cabinet section. 

1.) Remove casing
2.) Install cabinet.
3.) Cut casing down using clamps, a jig saw, coping saw, and utility knife.
4.) Re-install the adjusted casing.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

DanBress said:


> I'm not sure what you mean here. The side of my cabinet(not the front) will hit the door, so the cabinet doors/drawers should not interfere. The door opens out, not into the room so that shouldn't interfere either.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
If the cabinet is going to get fastened to the wall where the casing is going to be cut. then if there is a pull out draw in that cabinet and your casing is 5/4" thick most of the times that draw will not open fully because it will hit the back edge of the casing. this is where the filler strip comes in.
As for the type of saw to use. you must have a hand saw and clamp.the tools you mentioned would be ideal, but there not available, A table saw
I hope I was of some help as per your questions. BOB.


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## DanBress (Oct 31, 2007)

Thanks for all the info guys.

dan


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Any time.


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