# Carrier ECM motor number



## pwrengineer (Sep 20, 2007)

I am trying to find a replacement motor for a Carrier FK4CNF003 FU. Motor ID number is 5SME39HL0140, 1/2 HP 0-1400 RPM but the FU literature shows 1/2 HP motors as being either HD44AE128, HD44AE129 or HD44AE130. 

A web search found that an HD44AE132 might be a replacement too. Since ECM motors are real expensive I want to get the right part.

Can anyone cross reference this motor number?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

How do you know the motor is faulty? What are its symptoms? Could be the circuit board attached to the motor or the board in the furnace or the wiring harness.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Yep.

They are expensive motors to replace, if they aren't bad.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Sure it's the motor guys!

Engineers don't make those type of simple mistakes.:thumbsup:


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

Eveing.....Lover:thumbsup:


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

whatsssssuuuupppp!


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## pwrengineer (Sep 20, 2007)

*it's the motor control module*

Its the motor control unit. Here are the details:

The motor ALMOST works right. Takes a lot of rocking but 8 out of 10 times it eventually starts up. 2 out of 10 times it never starts and gives up, freezing the evap coils. Speed ramps back down OK when it runs. When it runs it is as smooth as ever (no shorted poles). Checked the winding resistances, they are OK. Checked voltages on the 16pin connector and the board, they are OK. Hand spinning the blower wheel can get it started every time but that is a bit inconvenient!

I pulled the module and checked the thermistor (OK) on the DC power board (on top) and even changed it. I changed the power FET's on the lower board too, but no luck. No number on the controller that identifies it but it IS an ECM2.3 motor. 

I want to buy another control module but GE has been no help in identifying it (...speak to your carrier salesman...). Carrier reps won't help without a $1,000 up front check to come out and look at it.

If I could identify the 5SME39HL0140 as being replaced by a HD44AE132 I would order the module from a local supply house.

Yep they sure are pricey. Makes me want to replace it with an AO smith motor and a new control board but I wouldn't know what controller board to replace it with.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The control board is TOTALLY SPECIFIC to the main board and must match. Afraid you will have to buy it from Carrier. If it doesn't match it may damage the main board and won't give you the proper CFM etc. The whole motor with module if you can find it wholesale thru a tech/buddy should be under $400, unless Carrier has jacked up their prices more than I know.


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## pwrengineer (Sep 20, 2007)

*Agree, still need right motor number*

Thanks for the reply.

Yes I am fully on board with the motor/control module/controller board matching and be configured to the blower/cabinet/condenser setup. 

What I am trying to do is find out which motor I presently have so I can get the right replacement: the Carrier literature says it is either an HD44AE128 or HD44AE129 or HD4AE130. They are all 1/2HP motors and I expect them to have different programming in them. I am not fully convinced my local carrier repairman would get it right either.

My existing motor is not labeled with any "HD" type nomenclature and Carrier won't help me ID it so I was looking for some help here.

One website claims the ..128 & ..129 get replaced by the ..132 motor, but I am skeptical and don't want to spend $600+ retail for the wrong part that is not returnable. I will buy a new motor & controller if necessary but I still need to know exactly which one.

Thanks again


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Sounds like the only person who could help and would have to contact Carrier would be a Carrier tech. We have one who drops in occasionally but you may have to wait a week or longer.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Ver 2.3

Its an older motor.

Carrier dealer can get you the right module.

Needs mod number and serial number of air handler.


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## denhunter (Jun 21, 2009)

yuri said:


> The control board is TOTALLY SPECIFIC to the main board and must match. Afraid you will have to buy it from Carrier. If it doesn't match it may damage the main board and won't give you the proper CFM etc. The whole motor with module if you can find it wholesale thru a tech/buddy should be under $400, unless Carrier has jacked up their prices more than I know.


Jacked up isn't the word. My guy sniffed at it and said a grand. 700 for the motor. Never again with this unit.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

That's Carrier for you.


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## denhunter (Jun 21, 2009)

Well, I am not taking it face down for anyone. I have looked at the wiring, looked at the boards, and they don't seem any more intimidating then building a computer from a barebones, so I am going replace the motor, controller board, and module some way. 

But my issue is mechanical. I have tried to remove the fan from the motor shaft using a puller, wd40, bolt blaster, rust remover, you name it. Using a puller is only bending the blades on the fan, and I am really afraid of mushrooming the motor shaft head. I can't get a wrench on the shaft of the motor from the other end, and yes, I took the screw out of the aluminum sleeve. A buddy is recommending torching it, and then using the puller. Any hints?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Did you use a hub puller.

Never had one I couldn't get oof using the Ultimate Puller.

Google it.


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## denhunter (Jun 21, 2009)

Problem is price with Ultimate puller. It's a one time use item for me, and I don't know anyone who keeps one. One retailer wants 250 bucks for one. I think I would throw the squirrel cage away first.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

denhunter said:


> Well, I am not taking it face down for anyone. I have looked at the wiring, looked at the boards, and they don't seem any more intimidating then building a computer from a barebones, so I am going replace the motor, controller board, and module some way.
> 
> But my issue is mechanical. I have tried to remove the fan from the motor shaft using a puller, wd40, bolt blaster, rust remover, you name it. Using a puller is only bending the blades on the fan, and I am really afraid of mushrooming the motor shaft head. I can't get a wrench on the shaft of the motor from the other end, and yes, I took the screw out of the aluminum sleeve. A buddy is recommending torching it, and then using the puller. Any hints?



There are no blades to be bent on a squirrel cage; only vanes . Last time I looked there was no groove cut into hub collar to allow a fan puller a grip.

A hub puller should only cost $75.

Here's an old school way of removing the shaft: A brass bludgeon/punch.

It's just a round pipe shaped solid brass tool that machinist use for applications like this.

After lubing the shaft ( i use Vaseline in a tube.Works wonders) use the brass bludgeon (should be larger than the shaft you are trying to jerk out) to beat on the shaft head. It will push the shaft into the orifice until it is i flush with orifice opening. Use a standard punch (smaller than the diameter of the hub collar) to beat the shaft the rest of the way out.


You could try taking it to a local hvac company to have it pulled or a motor shop. Cost you less than a puller.

Good luck


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## denhunter (Jun 21, 2009)

Isn't a vane just a blade at a different angle and no central connection? Either way, they are bending with a normal three armed puller.

The price I saw for the Ultimate was over 250. I can give you the link, but since I saw your post, I am finding it in your range.

Thanks for the tip! I may end up throwing the entire thing in the car for the motor guy to deal with. I am usually a guy that just has to finish the job by myself when I start it.

of course, there is money in that madness for the pros!:laughing:


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

I never heard of any one paying 250 for an Ultimate Puller.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

denhunter said:


> Isn't a vane just a blade at a different angle and no central connection? Either way, they are bending with a normal three armed puller.
> 
> The price I saw for the Ultimate was over 250. I can give you the link, but since I saw your post, I am finding it in your range.
> 
> ...


If the head is good you might also check with a motor rebuilder.

Might be less expensive then a new one. i'm just presuming the motor portion can be rebuilt as the business that most motor rebuilders get comes in the form of DC motors.

couldn't hurt to try.


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