# How do I install new windows?



## RickT (Oct 2, 2006)

Hi All,
How do I replace existing windows with "new construction" windows? I'm having new siding installed to replace siding damaged in a hail storm. I've been planning to replace our wood windows with vinyl clad windows, and I want to use new-constrution windows rather than replacement windows, because I want a new sill, frame, jamb, etc. I have 1x6 cedar trim around each window, which I could easily remove to gain access to the nail flange and rough opening. I was thinking of installing the new windows before our contractor installs new siding. He's putting on Tyvek, and I'd like to have it run up to the edge of the windows. (Is it better to have the Tyvek wrapped into the rough opening like it is on new construction, or is it OK to run it up to the edges of the windows?) It might be difficult to coordinate the Tyvek going, windows being installed, trim going on, and siding being installed, so I might be stuck with the Tyvek going up to the windows edges. Also, the drywall on the interior runs up closely to the window jambs, so I wouldn't be able to shim or add insulation after the new windows are installed because the drywall would be in the way. In preparation to install two casement windows, I Rotozipped the drywall back to the rough opening so I could accuratetely measure the opening and order the correct size window, and so I could shim and add insulation. I could Rotozip the rest of my windows, but it would create a lot of dust and would remove the benefit of having drywall as an added layer of insulation covering the opening. Can I simply remove the old windows from the outside, wrap insulation around the window frame, set it in place, make sure it's level and plumb, skip shimming, and face nail it using 2 1/2" roofing nails through the nail flange? If I don't remove the drywall with my Rotozip, is there an accurate way to determine my rough opening so I can order the correct size windows? What's the best way to all this? How do the pros do it? 
Thanks so very much.
Rick


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## inspects (Sep 4, 2006)

Rick,

Every window manufacturer has their own installation instructions which would need to be followed to the T, or the warranty for the window is void.

Google the brand of window you intend to install, they all have the installation instructions on their websites.

Just make sure you flash them Correctly!


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## crecore (Nov 2, 2005)

Replacement windows are flange mounted and may be your best bet to not disturb the inner sheet rock. These sometimes have jam screws to adjust the side tension but do not need to be shimmed. Crestline comes to mind but there are many.
Normally I wrap through the opening, caulk, install window, center, level, square and nail. Then I use a butyl rubber window flashing tape. It's about 8" wide and comes in a roll. First slice the house wrap across the top of the window flange 16" wider than the window (8" per side. Cut to pieces of flashing tape 16" wider than the window (not including th flanges). Put the bottom one on first over the flange and extending 8" beyond each side. Now Cut two pieces of flashing tape 16" taller than the window. Put the on either side over the flanges extending 8" above and below the window, carefully tucking the top up under the Tyvek (takes a little practice to do this efficiently). Then Put the final piece under the Tyvek but over the top flange and over the two side pieces of flashing tape. Then using Tyvek tape (I like the cold weather variety) tape the tyvek over the top of that. Sometimes if the Tyvek is too tight you end up having to make two horizontal slices also, just tape them up after. If the bldg is going to side for any length of time (like 6 months) before siding I also like to install a temporary scrap of plywood across the top of the window and screw it into the header above the flashing to hold all of this work together nicely.
I have never had a problem and I feel this is the most important step that many skip.

good luck


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## RickT (Oct 2, 2006)

Thanks so much for the great instructions. I'm installing Anderson windows, and I'll follow their instructions to the T. I like the way you explained how to flash the window after installation. New Tyvek and siding will be going on after I install the windows, so the Tyvek will overlap the flashing. Is there anything I need to consider when the Tyvek is installed?
Thanks again,
Rick


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

crecore said:


> Replacement windows are flange mounted and may be your best bet to not disturb the inner sheet rock. These sometimes have jam screws to adjust the side tension but do not need to be shimmed....


Umm, Crecore, I think you unintentionally worded this incorrectly....Replacement windows don't have flanges. New construction windows do have flanges....


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

RickT said:


> Thanks so much for the great instructions. I'm installing Anderson windows, and I'll follow their instructions to the T. I like the way you explained how to flash the window after installation. New Tyvek and siding will be going on after I install the windows, so the Tyvek will overlap the flashing. Is there anything I need to consider when the Tyvek is installed?
> Thanks again,
> Rick


Time out. You want to install the tyvek before the windows if possible. If not just make sure you tyvek tape around the windows for a good seal. Also get some ice and water shield for windows or what ever its called its a sticky rubber membrane to seal around the windows good. They make it especiallyfor windows. If i'm not mistaken you put it over the nail flanges. If i'm wrong one of the guys will correct me.

Yes he is correct replacement doesn't have the outside nailing flange they have like three leveling screwings on each side on the inside of the window. Once you get it level then you just shoot a couple nails on each side to secure it.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

747 said:


> Time out. You want to install the tyvek before the windows if possible. If not just make sure you tyvek tape around the windows for a good seal. Also get some ice and water shield for windows or what ever its called its a sticky rubber membrane to seal around the windows good. They make it especiallyfor windows. If i'm not mistaken you put it over the nail flanges. If i'm wrong one of the guys will correct me.


Yes, you are correct. 

1.) Tyvek or any kind of house wrap is applied first over the exterior sheathing. It is cut and then turned, and rolled into the window opening.

2.) Then Water and Ice shield or flexible (silver) flashing over the window opening sides about 6" out. 
- Each strip is layered so that no seams ever face up.
(Older way was to install the window over the tyvek using silicone under the flanges, then water and ice shield over the flanges to get a water tight seal. By doing steps #2 and #4, you create a water tight seal without using messy silicone)

3.) Then the new construction window is installed: square. plum and level, and flat against the house.

4.) Then another layer of water and ice shield strips over the flanges.

Side Point: Avoid using the expanding spray foam. It will void some window manufacturer's warranties, since it can 'warp' the window frame and jams, as it expands and dries. Just use insulation strips.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

RickT said:


> (Is it better to have the Tyvek wrapped into the rough opening like it is on new construction, or is it OK to run it up to the edges of the windows?)


Should be ok. What you can do is cut you water and ice shield at about 9" in width for the strips and when you install it around the window openings, roll the extra 3" of the sides of the strips into the rough opening.

However: Since you are getting your siding replaced, you will DEFINITELY want to replace the windows BEFORE the siding is installed. Example: You want to be able to install your 6" wide strips of water and ice shield around the window flanges. You won't be able to do that with new siding in the way...and...you don't want to have to rip off areas of your new siding around you windows to do that.... 
(Windows go in first, new exterior window casing installed next, then new siding butts up against the window casing trim)



RickT said:


> Also, the drywall on the interior runs up closely to the window jambs, so I wouldn't be able to shim or add insulation after the new windows are installed because the drywall would be in the way. In preparation to install two casement windows, I Rotozipped the drywall back to the rough opening so I could accuratetely measure the opening and order the correct size window, and so I could shim and add insulation. I could Rotozip the rest of my windows, but it would create a lot of dust and would remove the benefit of having drywall as an added layer of insulation covering the opening. Can I simply remove the old windows from the outside, wrap insulation around the window frame, set it in place, make sure it's level and plumb, skip shimming, and face nail it using 2 1/2" roofing nails through the nail flange? If I don't remove the drywall with my Rotozip, is there an accurate way to determine my rough opening so I can order the correct size windows? What's the best way to all this? How do the pros do it?
> Thanks so very much.
> Rick


Rick, you should be able to determine the R.O. of your windows without removing them or the Sheet-rock. The existing window jams are going to be 3/4" each in thickness. The space between each jam and the rough opening is going to be about 1/2" -3/4". So just do the arithmetic based on these points. 
Remember that when sheetrock is installed on the walls, the window openings are cut back to the actual rough opening anyways. So there rarely is any kind of an 'over hanging' of the sheetrock into the opening itself.

Also-
Tip: If you have to rotozip out any of your sheetrock, have a helper stand next to you with a shop vac. Have them hold the nozzle tube right next to the rotozip as you are cutting... Voila - almost 'dustless' rotozipping.


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## crecore (Nov 2, 2005)

I did word that part incorrectly, the windows I was referring to were new construction... I was thinking ahead to the flashing explaination as I typed I think...however you CAN get what they call "vinyl replacement windows" BUT with flanges, just ask.

One added note, many windows have water weep holes on the bottom, dont get over zealous and cover these with your flashing (or yes ice and water barrier is a cheap alternative and a lot of people have scraps of this hanging around from a roof job).

Live long and Prosper


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

crecore said:


> ...however you CAN get what they call "vinyl replacement windows" BUT with flanges, just ask.


Crecore, I wouldn't recommend those over new construction windows.

Because the replacement windows with the 'flange kits' are not as properly sealed up windows as new construction windows are....
Been there, and had to do it with windows that were ordered improperly as replacements instead of new constr.

Used the flanges kits......HATED them..... they need alot of retro fitting and they still are not as weather tight as sealed new const. windows.

-my 2 cents-


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

Use some shims on under the window to drain water toward the outside, these go under the tyvek. Do not install ice/water over the bottom nailing fin, the water needs to escape. Tyvek has some great training classes, I am not sure if they have any links from their web site.


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## crecore (Nov 2, 2005)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Crecore, I wouldn't recommend those over new construction windows.
> 
> I agree completely, I was just saying they DO exist.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

crecore said:


> AtlanticWBConst. said:
> 
> 
> > Crecore, I wouldn't recommend those over new construction windows.
> ...


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## RickT (Oct 2, 2006)

Thanks, everyone! I've been blessed with a wealth of information. My drywall was cut up to the each window frame, not flush with my rough openings. I'll need to use the Rotozip. LOML is an expert at holding the ShopVac house up to collect drywall dust. I'm also planning to put up 4 mil plastic with a couple of push pins tacking it to the ceiling to form a barrier to contain the dust. I understand the idea of not puting ice and water shield along the bottom nail flange so that water can escape, but I didn't understand the part about putting shims under the Tyvek. Can anyone clarify? Also, Dean and Robin from Hometime put the ice and water shield along the bottom flange. It must be right if that's the way they do it.  
Thanks again,
Rick


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

The shims if angled correctly will provide a slight pitch and drain any water toward the outside. If water enters and sits on the tyvek it can drain into your sheetrock. Water belongs outdoors!


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## RickT (Oct 2, 2006)

So you're saying place thin shims under the Tyvek at the top of the window, behind the top nail flange so that the window tilts outward just slightly?


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

NO.....Under the window to give the base a slight tilt outward.


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## RickT (Oct 2, 2006)

OK. That makes sense. 
Thanks again,
Rick


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