# Removing Efflorescence from Basement Walls



## koala (Nov 26, 2014)

Our real estate agent suggested that we touch up the basement walls prior to putting our home up for sale. After a little research, I purchased Drylok Etch to remove the efflorescence that had built up. The product seemed to work great,as the efflorescence practically disappeared after applying the product with a wire brush. However, I went down to inspect the portion of the wall that I cleaned the previous night and found that much of what had been removed looks to have returned. Below are some pictures of the area. Just wondering if what I'm seeing is normal/expected and if it's not, any other suggestions to help clean up the surfaces? Our end goal is to cover these "sore" spots with Drylok Masonry Waterproofer. All help is appreciated. Thanks!


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

koala said:


> Our real estate agent suggested that we touch up the basement walls prior to putting our home up for sale. After a little research, I purchased Drylok Etch to remove the efflorescence that had built up. The product seemed to work great,as the efflorescence practically disappeared after applying the product with a wire brush. However, I went down to inspect the portion of the wall that I cleaned the previous night and found that much of what had been removed looks to have returned. Below are some pictures of the area. Just wondering if what I'm seeing is normal/expected and if it's not, any other suggestions to help clean up the surfaces? Our end goal is to cover these "sore" spots with Drylok Masonry Waterproofer. All help is appreciated. Thanks!


Can't tell from the photo what the walls are made of. Are they poured concrete or are they concrete block with a covering. The second photo looks like a patch. Is that what it is?

Effloresce is caused when moisture migrates into cement products and reaches natural salts contained within. The moisture will reach for the dryer/warmer side of the wall seeking to evaporate and leaving salts deposits drying in the air. The phenomenon will eventually play-out but there is no telling when that could be.

If you were to keep cleaning with your product repeatedly you may be able to hasten the process and exhaust the source sooner.

Are you using a dehumidifier of any kind?


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

koala said:


> Our real estate agent suggested that we touch up the basement walls prior to putting our home up for sale. ......... Our end goal is to cover these "sore" spots with Drylok Masonry Waterproofer. All help is appreciated. Thanks!


And THIS is exactly why I recommend family/friends/customers do not buy a home with a recently painted basement wall. The Drylock is only temporary, and the removal of it is 10X the effort of putting it on in the first place.......


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## koala (Nov 26, 2014)

Bud Cline said:


> Can't tell from the photo what the walls are made of. Are they poured concrete or are they concrete block with a covering. The second photo looks like a patch. Is that what it is?
> 
> Effloresce is caused when moisture migrates into cement products and reaches natural salts contained within. The moisture will reach for the dryer/warmer side of the wall seeking to evaporate and leaving salts deposits drying in the air. The phenomenon will eventually play-out but there is no telling when that could be.
> 
> ...


The basement walls are poured concrete that have been painted with drylok. The second photo is of an area where the concrete is exposed after cleaning loose paint off. We don't have a dehumidifier down there right now. I did the whole taping plastic to the wall to check for moisture and found none after 24 hrs. Do you think putting a dehumidifier down there would help? When I first applied the product the concrete looked fresh. It was less than 24 hr that these pics were taken, does efflorescence build that quickly?


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## nobull56 (Nov 27, 2014)

In the olden days we used a swimming pool product called 'muriatic acid' and diluted it with water (approximately 80% water 20% acid) and this is what we used to remove the lateness (efflorescence) from cement-based products.

Muriatic acid is very reactive to any calcium and can also react to metal. I don't know if this will help in a indoor situation like you have but if you give it a try make sure you wear safety gear! Eye protection is a must!

Hope this helps


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

koala said:


> The basement walls are poured concrete that have been painted with drylok. The second photo is of an area where the concrete is exposed after cleaning loose paint off. We don't have a dehumidifier down there right now. I did the whole taping plastic to the wall to check for moisture and found none after 24 hrs. Do you think putting a dehumidifier down there would help? When I first applied the product the concrete looked fresh. It was less than 24 hr that these pics were taken, does efflorescence build that quickly?


Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) is not safe for indoor use, it is dangerous and emits fumes that will quickly cause lung damage. There are much much safer products to use that will bring the same end result.

If the first product you used worked for you then continue using it. I wouldn't be mixing various acid products one on top of another, that too is risky business.

If what you are dealing with is in fact efflorescence then the condition will continue until either the source plays-out or the moisture migration stops.

My thoughts on using a dehumidifier would be to speed up the process by encouraging the condition to continue at a more rapid rate in hopes the source (salts) will be used up faster.

The plastic taped to the walls means nothing in this case.


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## koala (Nov 26, 2014)

Bud Cline said:


> Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) is not safe for indoor use, it is dangerous and emits fumes that will quickly cause lung damage. There are much much safer products to use that will bring the same end result.
> 
> If the first product you used worked for you then continue using it. I wouldn't be mixing various acid products one on top of another, that too is risky business.
> 
> ...


I'll give it another shot at the walls tomorrow with the Drylok Etch and see how it takes. Just out curiosity, what else could the white build up be if not efflorescence?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

koala said:


> I'll give it another shot at the walls tomorrow with the Drylok Etch and see how it takes. Just out curiosity, what else could the white build up be if not efflorescence?


If it is re-occurring then efflorescence is about all it could be. 
What's going on outside of the foundation? Any moisture or landscaping run-off issues to be dealt with or issues that could be corrected?


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## koala (Nov 26, 2014)

Bud Cline said:


> If it is re-occurring then efflorescence is about all it could be.
> What's going on outside of the foundation? Any moisture or landscaping run-off issues to be dealt with or issues that could be corrected?


We live in a neighborhood that has a pretty high water table so there's certainly some hydraulic pressure. That being said, the lawn has an adequate grade running away from the house so I'm not sure else could be done. We've never had any running leaks through the wall so it appears to be a problem with the walls maybe not being sealed properly to begin with??? I've read that drylok waterproofer is pretty good but also heard of other concrete sealers that seem to penetrate into the concrete to form a moisture barrier.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

koala said:


> We live in a neighborhood that has a pretty high water table so there's certainly some hydraulic pressure. That being said, the lawn has an adequate grade running away from the house so I'm not sure else could be done. We've never had any running leaks through the wall so it appears to be a problem with the walls maybe not being sealed properly to begin with??? I've read that drylok waterproofer is pretty good but also heard of other concrete sealers that seem to penetrate into the concrete to form a moisture barrier.


Unfortunately any suitable sealer or water barrier would be applied on the outside of the walls. Any sealers sold to supposedly seal the inside are going to be nothing more than Band-Aids. Especially if hydraulics are at play.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

You might want to read this before you do anything else, might help ,might not.

http://www.delawarequarries.com/cleaners/efflorescence.html


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

the ' etch ' sounds like mild muriatic/hydrochloric,,, apron/vest stores also 10% & 12% acid outside near pavers - dilute it yourself & save a budle of $$$ :thumbsup:

just vapor-proof'd some interior bsmt walls using thoroseal,,, you can also try xypex, kryton, or prosoco,,, nevetheless, the absolute best method is exterior excavation & applying a waterproof coating,,, we use sika hlm5000 for that item :thumbup:


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## Doc Sheldon (Nov 23, 2014)

Canarywood1 said:


> You might want to read this before you do anything else, might help ,might not.
> 
> http://www.delawarequarries.com/cleaners/efflorescence.html


Very informative, Canarywood... and a little dismaying, as it appears I managed to do wrong, virtually everything that CAN be done wrong, on my recent block/stucco wall. I imagine my stucco will be peeling in a couple of years.


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## fortunerestore (Mar 6, 2014)

What you did was the secondary step or should I say a quick fix - which is why efflorescence reappeared. What you need is locating the source of water infiltration and stop and then clean the walls with an efflorescence remover.


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