# Splits in stringer



## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

You can't just fill them and seal them. They'll still be split...they'll just be covered up and split.

If it's a condition of the sale, you better see what the sale contract says about HOW to repair them...if anything.

Generally speaking, I don't know of any good way to stop a board from splitting like that long term*. Replacement would be better, IMO.

*Yes I know you're not interested in "long term", but I doubt you'll find many people on here willing to help you/advise you on how to fix it so it lasts 31 days (assuming a 30 day closing). The right thing to do for the buyer and for your own peace of mind is fix it right.


----------



## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

If you can close the split with a clamp then squeeze in some waterproof glue and clamp it until the glue sets up.
Real Estate sales are a damned if you do and damned if you don't situation. Your agent will want to say nothing and have no contact with the buyer. If the buyer doesn't ask then don't tell. Sad fact of life.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Picture is sideways, it is a stair riser. That is actually not that uncommon. Those risers should be pre drilled to avoid splitting. I could be wrong, but I doubt it would fail inspection. I would first remove the screw on the tread, the stair. Shoot some construction adhesive deep into the split, not so much that it oozes out and creates a mess, it shouldn't take much. Run a 1 1/4" coated decking screw (or smaller if you can find it, 1") sideways to pull the split together. Wait for it to dry and put the screw back into the tread. You can remove the sideways screw or leave it. I'd just leave it. If the inspector notices the split, which once closed he probably won't, maybe, he might look at the repair secured with a fastener and move on. It might be helpful to pre drill before inserting the sideways screw. That split has likely been there from day one of deck construction. Looking again it is a bit deformed from age and weathering.

Clamp might work. Other than that the only other alternative is replacement.

Would be curious to know, did it already fail inspection?

Good luck with your sale.


----------



## jjk88 (Jun 27, 2019)

Yes it was noted on inspection and we were asked to "repair/replace deteriorated deck stairs" by the time of the closing next month. So it seems we have the option to repair or replace. Thank you for the advice!


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Remove the tread cut a treated 2x4 to fit both sides, pre drill one 2x4 and the stringer and screw thru to another block on the other side 4" treated screws.


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

jjk88 said:


> Yes it was noted on inspection and we were asked to "repair/replace deteriorated deck stairs" by the time of the closing next month.



I would be real tempted to tell them " You didn't buy a new house. its a 10 year old house, its got a 10 year old deck, its got 10 year old wood. You don't like the stringer --- you fix it". But the fixes mentioned above are so simple that sometimes its best to just comply.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

I like Neal's sistering idea. The house my wife and I bought in January had a similar issue, except it was Trex treads sagging. The POs of the house just got some PT 2x and screwed them between the stringers, effectively thickening the treads. The treads still sag, but they're solid and won't sag any further. FWIW the POs did this on their own, before we even saw the house—they paid for their own inspection, presumably to get in front of any issues an inspectors would potentially "fail" the house for.


----------



## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

jjk88 said:


> Yes it was noted on inspection and we were asked to "repair/replace deteriorated deck stairs" by the time of the closing next month. So it seems we have the option to repair or replace. Thank you for the advice!


Asked? Is this in writing somewhere? Is this a condition of sale that you repair or replace....or is it just "they saw it and said, if you can fix that we'll buy it." Because if that's the case, I can promise you that if they love the house, "other than that pesky split stair stringer outside", then they'll buy it anyway.

But like mentioned above, Neal's fix is a pretty simple thing and something I didn't think of. Now that I see it, I'd probably go that route.


----------



## jjk88 (Jun 27, 2019)

Yes it's in writing to repair or replace as part of the condition of sale. Will give the sistering idea a try. Thank you!


----------



## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

jjk88 said:


> Yes it's in writing to repair or replace as part of the condition of sale. Will give the sistering idea a try. Thank you!


 What if they aren't satisfied with the repair? Maybe discuss your plan with the buyer? What if you spend time and some $ and they don't like the way it looks? Who is in the 'driver's seat'....you or the buyer?


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

JIMMIEM said:


> Maybe discuss your plan with the buyer? ?



Just do it. This is trivial.


More commonly, the sale is conditional on inspection, and the inspector finds, to great surprise, that the 20 year old house has a 20 year old roof. And it only has a few years of life left. So they want another couple of thousand off the price. That's when you need to consider telling them to pound dirt.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Remove the tread cut a treated 2x4 to fit both sides, pre drill one 2x4 and the stringer and screw thru to another block on the other side 4" treated screws.


^^This, absolutely. You the man, Neal, again. 

But I think you'd be good with blocking under the tread on just one side. Combine my suggestion with Neal's. Shoot some adhesive in the crack. Pull together with a sideways screw. (sister)A block underneath the tread screwed to the rise. Screw the tread to the sistered blocking. That blocking _probably_ won't split when you screw the tread, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to pre-drill.

Sandwiching like Neal suggested would probably be the best way to go, but will be less attractive. But I guess who cares just as long as it passes inspection.


----------



## jjk88 (Jun 27, 2019)

Nealtw said:


> Remove the tread cut a treated 2x4 to fit both sides, pre drill one 2x4 and the stringer and screw thru to another block on the other side 4" treated screws.


What kind of adhesive would you use?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jjk88 said:


> What kind of adhesive would you use?


What ever I had in the truck


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> ^^This, absolutely. You the man, Neal, again.
> 
> But I think you'd be good with blocking under the tread on just one side. Combine my suggestion with Neal's. Shoot some adhesive in the crack. Pull together with a sideways screw. (sister)A block underneath the tread screwed to the rise. Screw the tread to the sistered blocking. That blocking _probably_ won't split when you screw the tread, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to pre-drill.
> 
> Sandwiching like Neal suggested would probably be the best way to go, but will be less attractive. But I guess who cares just as long as it passes inspection.



Take that stringer out of the deal and just squeeze it or it will just spit some more.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Hm, i'm not following you there. No matter.

Just curious: What would be the proper name or descriptor for the "sistered" "blocking"? Would it accurately be called a cleat? Just curious, it could keep me from _sounding_ like an incompetent idiot. Novice, novice was the word I was looking for. :biggrin2:


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> Hm, i'm not following you there. No matter.
> 
> Just curious: What would be the proper name or descriptor for the "sistered" "blocking"? Would it accurately be called a cleat? Just curious, it could keep me from _sounding_ like an incompetent idiot. Novice, novice was the word I was looking for. :biggrin2:


I don't know what you would call it but you said to use one block and screw it one way or the other, I think that would continue to shatter the end of the stringer, that is why I would pre drill it and squeeze it between to blocks.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

It might, you're probably right. That wood looks pretty dry and possibly brittle, almost Y'd out along that split towards the top.

If done the way you suggest, "cleats" secured to the stringer, tread secured to the cleat, I don't see any reason why it would fail inspection.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Hey Neal, I wonder if before making a repair like that it might not be a bad idea to saturate the wood with water, maybe make it a little more flexible and less brittle, avoid cracking further when the split is forced back together?

Asking for a friend. :biggrin2:


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> Hey Neal, I wonder if before making a repair like that it might not be a bad idea to saturate the wood with water, maybe make it a little more flexible and less brittle, avoid cracking further when the split is forced back together?
> 
> Asking for a friend. :biggrin2:


Tell your friend that, that is a great idea. :wink2:


----------



## gilsulate (Jun 28, 2019)

If you can close the split with a clamp then squeeze in some waterproof glue and clamp it until the glue sets up.


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

PL Premium into the void and then a C-clamp to hold it closed for 24 hours. But don't know how stiff the wood is. If it really wants to open up again, it will. But it won't be the PL Premium that rips, it would be the parent wood.


----------



## Deaknh (Mar 24, 2018)

I've dealt with this manyt times. .sistering it is definitely the way to go.


----------



## jmig7 (Jul 11, 2017)

jjk88 said:


> What kind of adhesive would you use?


Thats southern pine. And southern pine is a structrual nighmare compared to a hardwood like IPE or even redwood or cedar.

I would use a hardwood something above PINE ( Janka scale) AT MINIMUM douglas fir if the wood is wet it will not draw in the split southern pine on the stringer. Again southern pine very soft, easily checks, warps and splits.
You may also look at a PVC composite (although white / unnatural) has great compression structure. The quality of wood at most Big Box stores is crap and poorly stored, but they do have PVC composite or wood-like.

Use some clamps to draw in the damaged stinger to the "sistering of the stringers:

You may be better drilling in carriage bolts and nut and washer to maintain the compression rather than a relying on a 4 in exterior screw to draw in the wood.

Skip the adhesive- use the extra money on the fasteners.


----------

