# which way to cut baseboards for inner angle fitting?



## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

Yes. Method #2 is better. Like you said: cut one end straight, then cut an inside 45* miter on the other piece. Then, using a coping saw, cut away the unneeded material. I prefer to use an angle grinder with a 40 or 60 grit flap disk (sanding disc). I can cope a 4" piece of moulding in about 10 seconds with one. Then I touch it up with a file or sanding block.
Another thing you can try is mitering both pieces. Then making a notch in both mitered pieces. If I can explain correctly, cut off about half of each miter (the same material you would cope off). Start at the bottom and cut about 3/4 of the way up, leaving the last 1/4 in tact. This will allow the base to get all the way into the corners without being stopped by clumps of drywall mud or other debris at the bottom of the wall. The tips of each mither should be able to touch each other unlike when you tried it before. Give it a shot. Hope this helps.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

send_it_all said:


> Another thing you can try is mitering both pieces. Then making a notch in both mitered pieces. If I can explain correctly, cut off about half of each miter (the same material you would cope off). Start at the bottom and cut about 3/4 of the way up, leaving the last 1/4 in tact. This will allow the base to get all the way into the corners without being stopped by clumps of drywall mud or other debris at the bottom of the wall. The tips of each mither should be able to touch each other unlike when you tried it before. Give it a shot. Hope this helps.


I suppose this is for method 1 .... additional technique if I understand it correctly.... anyway.. I probably will try method 2 see how it goes first before getting into this modified version of method 1...


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

You are correct about this being a modification of method 1. It will be faster and easier than method 2 if that includes a coping saw.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

OK I now tried all three methods... and it seems method 2 is kind of the painless if you find a way to cut fastest...

for Method 1 and modified Method 1, the pain start at you need to try different scrap pieces with different angles... and often there is no perfect match... 

whereas method 2... you don't need to measure angle... just do the robertic cut and fit... I use jig-saw cutting seems ok... I will try to use rotery tool next time see if it is better... Angle Grinder seems over kill to me as this is too powerful machine it is... and coping saw seems the turtle approach which I didn't even bother attempting and don't have a coping saw yet...


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

Method 2# I believe is the way you should do it. Here's another reason why you should. When you cope it right, there should be no gap. Lets say 3 years down the road when the wood contracts and and such, you will not see any gaps because the piece you didn't cope is tucked behind the coped piece. Where as if you cut a 45 degree angle, where the 2 ends meet will be quite visible when the wood starts to contract..
You follow me?


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

Yes I follow you... yes I am using method 2 already...

another question: I need to predrill for using screws to attached half of my baseboards as half of my studs are steel studs... question for that is what is the correct way to pre-drilling... after trying some, my guess would be:

pre-drill all the way with a pretty thin drill-bit...

then pre-drill a little bit at the surface with a drill-bit larger/equal to the size of the screw-head so that the screw head can sink beneath the surface.

is this the right approach for pre-drilling?


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

Yes, but there's an easier way. Just go to Home Depot or any hardware store and ask for a "counter-sink" drill bit.. I use this when I do cabinets or whatever else I need to have the screw sit flush or beneath the surface.. Then you can fill it in with a paintable caulk or mud..


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

While at the depot...ask the hardware guy for "trim head" screws. They are to screws what finish nails are to nails...they sink below the surface and leave a much smaller hole than a countersink.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

send_it_all said:


> While at the depot...ask the hardware guy for "trim head" screws. They are to screws what finish nails are to nails...they sink below the surface and leave a much smaller hole than a countersink.


Yes, as ''send it all'' stated: use *trim-head* screws. There is NO NEED to countersink when you use them.

They are the standard fasteners used when doing any finished wood trim work onto steel framing.....

(BTW - The extra hassle of this is why I recommend wood framing for DIYers)


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

Thanks Atlantic...it's a big compliment to be agreed with by you..


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

Trim head screws... Haven't heard of those yet.. Is that a brand name or a type of screw?


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

That is why I switch to wood framing after half of the basement framed... well... I totally agree with wood framing.... why on earth people go with steel studs... expensive...

anyhow... I did bought trim head screws ... I believed... they are #6 1 3/4 inch screws... they have a small head for square head screw driver... but my trouble with this guy is, if I do not predrill a big hole, the screw won't drive in... as if you know steel, they are not as force driven as wood... when turn very hard on them... they just turn without going in... so the screw will stay above the surface if not predrill... so I guess I still need the counter-sink drill bit...

my other difficulties with the xyz steel... is looks like stud founder finding steel is not as accurate as wood.... I just want to xyz the people who invent steel studs...


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

That's what I was wondering. "Trim-head" screws.. Are those applicable to both wood and steel studs?


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Trim-head screws are a type of screws, like flat-head or trumpet-head (drywall screws). 

I've always seen them as wood screws. They'll work fine in metal studs that have been pre-drilled. 

I wonder if anyone makes a self-drilling sheetmetal trim-head screw. Seems like that would be a real time-saver when attaching wood trim to metal-stud construction.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

I saw a post here in the past that Amazon.com selling those predrill trim head screws for metal studs... but not in HD here... when it takes you so much trouble of getting simple thing like "screws", like online ordering..postage..mailing..etc.... it is no different than "not exists" at all...


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

NateHanson said:


> Trim-head screws are a type of screws, like flat-head or trumpet-head (drywall screws).
> 
> I've always seen them as wood screws. They'll work fine in metal studs that have been pre-drilled.
> 
> I wonder if anyone makes a self-drilling sheetmetal trim-head screw. Seems like that would be a real time-saver when attaching wood trim to metal-stud construction.


They absolutely do make a self drilling trim head screw....I have used them many times, but they were supplied by the company I used to work for. I dont know where they bought them. You can get away with using the ones you have by pre-drilling a small hole through the trim and into the metal studs. This will allow the screw to start easily. You still dont have to countersink the holes, but not doing so will probably result in a little bump in the surface if you are using mdf trim. Here's another trick you can use if the scews are too much of a PITA. Use painters caulk to glue the trim to the drywall. Then, shoot nails between the studs.
The nails will hold the trim in place until the caulking dries. Believe me, the trim trim will not fall off. I do this with crown and base all the time. Never had a piece come loose.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

painter caulks and nails.... what an idea... I definitely give this a try... as I hate screwing so much when I had already done the other half wood studs with PC nailer so much easier... I one time even thinking nail onto the steel stud should work too...I don't know if I need to " shoot nails between the studs" as I think the nails has more than enough power to go through the steel stub...


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

KUIPORNG said:


> painter caulks and nails.... what an idea... I definitely give this a try... as I hate screwing so much when I had already done the other half wood studs with PC nailer so much easier... I one time even thinking nail onto the steel stud should work too...I don't know if I need to " shoot nails between the studs" as I think the nails has more than enough power to go through the steel stub...


You lost me for a second here....What I mean is to shoot nails where there are no studs....just into drywall. The nails will hold the moulding against the drywall long enough for the caulking to bond.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

what's wrong for shooting nail onto the stud to kill two birds with one stone?


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

anyhow, I tried the caulking and nailing approach... it is neat ... I don't need to do the annoying stud finding exercise... and doesn't care what is behinding the wall.... and the caulking also make the baseboard being able to stick to some curve spot even there is no support behind... anyhow... thanks for the tips... send_it_all


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

Also, hints from Send_it_all I also find coping using angle grinder seems the easiest and painless, although probably most dusty... anything else is either time consuming and difficult...


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

Im glad it worked out for you. and yes....coping with a grinder is very dusty, especially with mdf.


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