# My closet flange is too high?



## J187 (May 19, 2006)

I am taking up my tile floor in the bathroom and I'm going to retile. The tile floor in the bathroom is considerably higher than the hall floor and I found that not only has tile been tiled over tile Which was tiled over tile, but the mortar bed below is really thick. The problem is, my closet flange sits a full 1 3/4" off my plywood subfloor. I was going to use 1/4" hardie and a 1/4" tile. The Flange is cast iron... the flange is going to be too high for me, right? I mean, even I bump up to 1/2" backer it will still be too high, right? What is the highest the flange can sit atop of the finished floor?


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

Bottom line is that it has to sit "on" the flooring. It should also be attached to the floor with screws. Hopefully, you have access to the area under the floor and can cut the cast iron pipe and lower the flange to fit your new tile height.


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## al's sewer (Apr 7, 2009)

The bottom of the flange should be sitting on the finish floor.
the only way to fix that is to take the flange out and lower it. My suggestion find an older plumber use to working with cast iron and have him fix it. he would probably be over 50 to have enough of experince to work on cast iron. I am 55 and they were phasing out cast iron when I came into the trade in the 70's. Although it is still used on some commercial jobs for noise reasons. It is much quieter than pvc.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

I cannot afford a plumber right now. Guess I'll be raising tfe floor.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Is this my only option?


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## metx (Dec 24, 2008)

I am in the trade in new york .and 42 all we use is cast ..


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## HWConstruction (Jan 19, 2009)

Is the bath on a slab, crawl or basement? Can you get to the cast pipe?


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

It is not your your only option if you have access under the house. You could cut the cast iron and put a No-hub or Fernco coupling and switch to PVC. This way you could lower the flange to the proper height.


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## al's sewer (Apr 7, 2009)

no its not your only option.As stated above if the pipe is accessable from underneath you can try doing it yourself by cutting out the cast iron and replacing with pvc Using either a fernco or no hub band. If you decide to do this I would recommend using a transition no hub band to go from 4 inch pvc to 4 inch cast iron. The reason for this is the pvc is slightly thicker than the cast and it makes the transition look and work better as the thickness difference is corrected in the no hub band. This is of course you are working with 4 inch pipe which most likely you are. The transition no hubs are available in other pipe sizes also.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Split level home I have access. Now I have to make a decision.., thanks guys!


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## al's sewer (Apr 7, 2009)

metx said:


> I am in the trade in new york .and 42 all we use is cast ..


 Yes I know it is still used in commercial building alot for noise and fire regulations I was simply reffering to residential plumbing. although it might still be being used in some areas for residential.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

Depending on the age of your home, the cast iron may be connected with No-hub couplings. I did a lot of jobs like that in the early 70's. You would still need to get a cast iron to PVC coupling. If the cast iron is hub type, with poured lead joints, it is a bit more work.


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

Can you post a picture from under the floor and one from above? This may not be as complected as you think.


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## II Weeks (Jan 6, 2009)

<~~ not a fan of hardy boards in bathrooms. Consider putting down a mud floor of portland and sand.( 5 parts sand, 1 part cement) You can perfectly level the floor and and its a much better base for tile and you can raise your floor that way.


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## metx (Dec 24, 2008)

first make sure what it is .lead or cast .if cast it is connected with a nohub or frenco .if lead it is sweated on the ferell .


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Picture from underneath... as far as from the floor - the toilet is there now and this is our only bathroom. Clearly, there is access here though, from the garage...


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

It is good you have access. You can make the floor the height you want it to be. Working with cast iron overhead is very difficult so unless noise is an issue I would replace the cast with PVC or ABS all the way to the stack. You can use rubber bushing that goes into the cast iron hub or a coupling that looks like a short rubber pipe with a stainless steel clamp around it to connect the plastic to the cast.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Ok, I haven't seen the side of the stack that the stub comes out of. See the hub that is visible behind the arrow? The stack is directly on the other side of that wall right there, literally up against the plaster in fact. So is that hub right there the one you are saying I should go into? I'm sorry I'm not following very well. I was thinking I would cutting about 6" or so away from the hub and using one of these










If there is an easier or better way? I wasn't sure if it would be easier/better to cut along that horizontal run where the arrow is, or along the vertical run just below the sub floor.


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

You are exactly on the right track. As close as you are to the stack I would not cut anything. Once you get the old flange out of the way and make sure the cast is not attached to the joists you will probably be able to wiggle what is left out of the hub in the stack. Just be careful not to move the stack. You can carefully dig out the lead with a chisel or apply some heat to melt the lead and it will come right out. When you get it out it will be heavy. Be mindful of what will be damaged if it falls… feet, tools, nicely finished floors. You can use a hub bushing to start your PVC or ABS plastic from the stack. You should choose between PVC and ABS based on what is accepted in your area. PVC is the most common.

Leave the new pipe at least a few inches higher than the new floor. You will be able to cut it and make the new flange sit on the new floor where is should be. Be sure to screw it down properly. Once you get the old cast out the hardest part will be getting that bushing to seat. Use something like dish soap to help it slide in.

Rege


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

RegeSullivan said:


> You are exactly on the right track. As close as you are to the stack I would not cut anything. Once you get the old flange out of the way and make sure the cast is not attached to the joists you will probably be able to wiggle what is left out of the hub in the stack. Just be careful not to move the stack. You can carefully dig out the lead with a chisel or apply some heat to melt the lead and it will come right out. When you get it out it will be heavy. Be mindful of what will be damaged if it falls… feet, tools, nicely finished floors. You can use a hub bushing to start your PVC or ABS plastic from the stack. You should choose between PVC and ABS based on what is accepted in your area. PVC is the most common.
> 
> Leave the new pipe at least a few inches higher than the new floor. You will be able to cut it and make the new flange sit on the new floor where is should be. Be sure to screw it down properly. Once you get the old cast out the hardest part will be getting that bushing to seat. Use something like dish soap to help it slide in.
> 
> Rege


Ok sounds great. I thought cutting was my only option, I didn't realize I could dig out the hub. I think the hardest part of everything will be coordinating everything - this is our only toilet. Thanks for the info!


and this is the bushing I will need, right?








http://www.fernco.com/img/products/plumbing/donuts-orings/do-multi-tite.jpg


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

That looks like a Fernco Multi-tite and should work just fine.
This will be more than a one day job since you need to get the new floor in before you replace the toilet. If you have a floor drain in the basement you might consider putting a temporary bathroom in the basement using the toilet you are removing. I have done this on remodels in the past and used them for months at a time. I have even rigged temporary showers in these temporary bathrooms.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

I do not have a floor drain unfortunately. Right below that hub on the base of that wall is an exposed 4" cleanout that I use to snake the main line when roots come. I wonder if I can get really creative and use that somehow - it IS a few inches off the ground though...


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## how2do (May 7, 2009)

*Toilet Flange Too High*

I just worked on a toilet flange with a lead bend a couple of weeks ago. I found this video on YouTube which showed this Extender Kit. You might want to check it out. I ordered one and it worked great for me. 
I found it on YouTube in a search under Toilet Flange Repair, the company is out of NJ...set-rite.com

Good Luck...


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

how2do said:


> I just worked on a toilet flange with a lead bend a couple of weeks ago. I found this video on YouTube which showed this Extender Kit. You might want to check it out. I ordered one and it worked great for me.
> I found it on YouTube in a search under Toilet Flange Repair, the company is out of NJ...set-rite.com
> 
> Good Luck...


 
Hmm, thanks for the spam. I'm sure that an extender will help me get the height of that flange down :stupid:


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