# Gutter sloping the wrong way



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

Can you move the downspout to the other end?


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

puttster said:


> There is no room to slide the gutter up, and only 1" on the bottom of the fascia


Are you 100% sure there is no room? The back top of the gutter is under the drip and hitting the top?

If so then I would snap a line from the base of the fascia on the left to the bottom of the gutter on the right. Then loosen a few feet at a time of gutter and drop it till the line you snapped disappears. Hopefully thats enough drop. If not you can add a downspout at the other end and run the gutter high in the middle high...... OR drop the gutter bottom below the fascia to get your drop. That is a potential cosmetic issue .


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

craig11152 said:


> Are you 100% sure there is no room? The back top of the gutter is under the drip and hitting the top?
> 
> If so then I would snap a line from the base of the fascia on the left to the bottom of the gutter on the right. Then loosen a few feet at a time of gutter and drop it till the line you snapped disappears. Hopefully thats enough drop. .


Well, upon reinspection, the gutter is pushed up all the way 90% of the time, only dropping down about one inch when it gets close to the downspout. (pic).

Do you think a line that started at the bottom edge of the fascia would work? So draw my line, detach the downspout and move the first bracket down. Move them down one at a time? The brackets are 3' apart.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If it was mine I'd try backing out at least half the screws holding the gutter up on the down spout side, pull it down and see if the water drains, if it does just redrive the screws starting on the side the drain is. if not it's simple to cut off and lower the down spout.


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

Gutters aren't heavy. If you need help holding it while you lower the drain end, just leave the last 2 hangers in while you undo the rest. When your ready to drop it, remove those last 2.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Ideal if the gutter is up under the drip cap, never once in real life seen it done.
As I said back out the screws and pull it down.
There is no need to remove it or mark lines. 
Time to mark it would have been before it was installed.
Even a 1% slope will drain.


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

I was wondering if it would sag if I undid too many brackets, and would that be a problem getting it straight again.

Use the downspout to hold that end up, great idea! Here is a pic of the subject downspout, looks like I could remove the screw at the top and then I could push down on it and pick up an inch or two.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Should be enough.
No picture of the whole downspout so no idea what it would take to lower it if needed.


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

Ask and you shall receive. Here the DS enters the PVC drain system. I was planning though, to just unscrew the top screw and that would let me push the elbow down. Probably sawing an inch or two off the top of the elbow would be best, if I could detach it without too much trouble.

You see the blue drums in the background. My goal is to use them to collect water and feed it to the garden you see in the corner. This is a little off-thread, but now that I'll be messing with the downspout, maybe the gutter would be a good place to put an adapter of some kind and transition to the PVC system I need to bring water to the drums and return the excess to the drain. Yes?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

For what its worth, who ever installed the gutter, was inexperienced. The 90 coming out of the gutter trough is the wrong type. You have a type B elbow. Should have been a type A, and no need to butcher the fascia. Hack job, not surprised it's sloped the wrong way.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Yodaman said:


> For what its worth, who ever installed the gutter, was inexperienced. The 90 coming out of the gutter trough is the wrong type. You have a type B elbow. Should have been a type A, and no need to butcher the fascia. Hack job, not surprised it's sloped the wrong way.


Bingo. I would be looking at more of that install based on the representative sample. 

No drip edge either on the roof.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

I disagree on the A/B elbow. If the underground drain came out around the corner then you run A elbows. But since it's on the side you run B elbows. 
A verses B is just a matter of which wall you want the downspout on.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I agree Craig that the ground drain around the corner causes a bit of a quandary. In the past with similar situations I have either run the down spout on edge down the wall or transitioned the axis on a down run by twisting one of the elbows 90 degrees. They probably make a transition although I have never seen one.
In any case placing the take off perpendicular to the trough isn't the solution. In the op's case it appears the width of the take off is wider than the trough base.
And butchering the fascia can never be a good idea.
We'll just have to agree to disagree on this one.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

I agree on the fascia. I certainly wouldn't butcher the fascia either. I would have stuck half that one foot piece at the bottom at the top. That way I come straight down from the outlet just enough for the B elbow to clear the fascia before it heads toward the house. 
But looking at the picture I don't see why anyone needed to bash the fascia anyway :vs_worry:


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

Well, boys. it's done. Had to drop the downpipe end all the way to the bottom edge of the fascia. I trimmed an inch off the top ot the elbow and let that hold the gutter on that end and used a cuphook and bailing wire to hold it up in the middle. Then starting at the high end with a bottle of water I went one by one drilling new holes and and lowering the brackets to get a slow flow. Took three hours but I'm satisfied.

I could have gone to HD and got a transition elbow but since it is now below the fascia, no need. Thanks, all!

Now for screens to keep out the leaves, I'm thinking steel mesh, about 7" wide. Slip one end under the shingles and screw the other onto the top of the gutter edge.


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

Manufactured leafguard isn't that expensive. Home store stuff isn't more than a dollar or 2 a foot. Some of its good quality, I prefer the full aluminum screens


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

What do you recommend?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerima...MI_4es14vI1wIVXZ7ACh2AhQ0OEAYYAiABEgIl6vD_BwE

Something like this, although what I have used in the past was Alum, stay away from anything made from steel


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

puttster said:


> What do you recommend?


I'm in Canada so I imagine what's available here is different than where your located. 
I have used the Peak product available at home depot here quite a lot
It seems to work on everything except pine needles.


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

I got the Amerimax gutter guards for $2 each at HD and started installing them. After getting snapped on, the roof edge of the guard only extends to maybe one inch onto the roof, about the same as the drip edge. The shingles can hold it down for now but I think any amount of weight on the vinyl and it will sag down and pull out. 

Looking for experience with that and/or remedies, like maybe adhesive on one side or a stiffener of some kind.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Are you sure the back side of that screen isn't suppose to clip into the gutter. Might have to bend it a little making a "D" shape lying on it back.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

This may be a little off topic but i'm going to throw it out there anyway...

The purpose of a gutter system is to capture rainwater and direct away from the house or other structures protecting the foundation, basement, and few other things.

LeafGuard, Gutter Topper and the like maybe great for keeping leaves, needles and other debris out of the troughs but they also hinder the ability of the gutter to do what it's designed to do which is to control the water coming off the roof. 

In a drizzle/light rain senecio great but in heavy rains those toppers just cant handle it and most of the water ends up just shooting over the top and ending up were you don't want it. It can be like not having any gutter at all.


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

I'm thinking extend the edge with Gorilla Tape. The gutter guard is going between the decking and the shingles. Should I use the tape on both sides, for strength, or just one piece on the top so it can glue itself to the deck?


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