# Finishing Basement Windows question



## wetech (Aug 4, 2012)

I just did the same thing at my house. I had a full 10" gap to cover. Used 1x12 poplar boards for the returns. I'm doing caseless on my millwork, so I used tear away L-bead on the transition from drywall to wood. Turned out great.


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## bots444 (Oct 20, 2015)

wetech said:


> I just did the same thing at my house. I had a full 10" gap to cover. Used 1x12 poplar boards for the returns. I'm doing caseless on my millwork, so I used tear away L-bead on the transition from drywall to wood. Turned out great.



How did you tie the board into the window?


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## wetech (Aug 4, 2012)

bots444 said:


> How did you tie the board into the window?


End the wood about 1/8 - 3/16" short. Caulk the gap. Yours look pretty short, screwing right into the framing should be enough support.


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## wetech (Aug 4, 2012)

Oh, and that pic wasn't the final one. I primed all sides to seal the wood and finish coated the visible sides.


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## bots444 (Oct 20, 2015)

wetech said:


> Oh, and that pic wasn't the final one. I primed all sides to seal the wood and finish coated the visible sides.


This is exactly what I want to do. Yours looks awesome. Do you have a picture of it primed and everything? Im going to do caseless too probably. The small windows are up high so its not like any detail on them will be easily seen.


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## wetech (Aug 4, 2012)

bots444 said:


> This is exactly what I want to do. Yours looks awesome. Do you have a picture of it primed and everything? Im going to do caseless too probably. The small windows are up high so its not like any detail on them will be easily seen.



That's the only pic I have available. Could post something tonight / tomorrow.


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## bots444 (Oct 20, 2015)

wetech said:


> That's the only pic I have available. Could post something tonight / tomorrow.


That would be cool. I'd like to see it. Thanks so much for your help. I was stressing out about this, but it looks really easy to do. Ill knock this out this weekend and then can get to the painting. Thanks again!


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## ricksample12 (Feb 6, 2015)

I did my basement window a similar way 4 years. My basement block is 12" thick. Then you add a wall in front plus insulation that's another 6" or so. So around 18" thick I'd say... it gives it a nice "Deep" look to the window which is what I like. I just went to Home depot and purchased some smooth 1/4" MDF plywood type sheets. I cut the bottom, top and sides. After I cut them I added stain. Then I just glued them onto the 2x4 wall. I didn't want to use nails because 1/4" is thin, nails would probably go through it. 

I also added window molding to finish it off... turned out great! This is my trophy room. This picture was taken 4 years ago... you can't see it to well because of the glare... but you get the idea. :wink2:


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## bots444 (Oct 20, 2015)

ricksample12 said:


> I did my basement window a similar way 4 years. My basement block is 12" thick. Then you add a wall in front plus insulation that's another 6" or so. So around 18" thick I'd say... it gives it a nice "Deep" look to the window which is what I like. I just went to Home depot and purchased some smooth 1/4" MDF plywood type sheets. I cut the bottom, top and sides. After I cut them I added stain. Then I just glued them onto the 2x4 wall. I didn't want to use nails because 1/4" is thin, nails would probably go through it.
> 
> I also added window molding to finish it off... turned out great! This is my trophy room. This picture was taken 4 years ago... you can't see it to well because of the glare... but you get the idea. :wink2:


That looks great. I measured mine last night and the gap is a little less then 10". I was looking at the MDF sheets and they are pretty expensive. You said you bought 1x4 sheets?  How did that fill the 18" gap?


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## ricksample12 (Feb 6, 2015)

bots444 said:


> That looks great. I measured mine last night and the gap is a little less then 10". I was looking at the MDF sheets and they are pretty expensive. You said you bought 1x4 sheets? How did that fill the 18" gap?


I think it was MDF... might not have been. My gap was 18"... the widest standard board I could find at home depot was a 12" wide so I had to purchase a sheet of something. 

It wasn't 1x4 sheets... just a 1/4" thick. The sheet itself was 4' wide x 8' long by 1/4" thick. It was very smooth on both sides and had a real nice wood grain to it. 

You have a lot more options being that your gap is only 10". I would go to your local store and find a nice piece of wood like he posted above with the 1x12" poplar boards. Then case it with window trim.


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## bots444 (Oct 20, 2015)

ricksample12 said:


> I think it was MDF... might not have been. My gap was 18"... the widest standard board I could find at home depot was a 12" wide so I had to purchase a sheet of something.
> 
> It wasn't 1x4 sheets... just a 1/4" thick. The sheet itself was 4' wide x 8' long by 1/4" thick. It was very smooth on both sides and had a real nice wood grain to it.
> 
> You have a lot more options being that your gap is only 10". I would go to your local store and find a nice piece of wood like he posted above with the 1x12" poplar boards. Then case it with window trim.


do you remember around how much the sheet was? Im going to go tonight and see what they have.


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## CompleteW&D (Sep 4, 2015)

3/4" thick 1 x poplar may be too thick for those extensions. Double check how much room you have up against your window for 3/4" thick boards. If you have the room to add that much thickness and not interfere with the operation of your window, then I would buy 1" x 12"s and rip them to the width you need. 

If you don't have that much room, then I would buy thinner sheet goods to create the jamb extensions. You should try and find a Birch or Maple plywood that will paint up nicely. It only needs to be good on one side obviously. You might have better luck at a real lumber yard or molding and millwork shop versus a box store though (and very likely cheaper too)....


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## bots444 (Oct 20, 2015)

Hey guys. I just wanted to give an update. I have taken all of your advice and was able to case my windows. I got a 12inch wide board from lowes and used that to case the windows. Here's how they stand right now. Thanks again for everyone's help.


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## JamesCE (Nov 17, 2014)

great thread you guys and i am in the same situation... 
One question though... I believe my wall is not parallel to the window so there is about a half inch difference from the left to the right. I think the foundation wall is not straight compared to my wall... is that a huge deal or should I just make my wall crooked to make it parallel to the wall?


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

I personally would make your new wall straight instead of parallel with the crooked wall. You could easily trim the lumber you use for the casing to make up the difference.


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