# old cement utility sink



## DangerMouse

most drain assemblies are 2 pieces and unscrew from underneath to remove. 
if needed, post a picture of what you have, it's so much easier for any of us here when we can see what the problem is. Po)

DM


----------



## helpmyhusband

Hi,
I am linking 3 photos, they should be titled appropriately. In any case, they are the left drain, the right drain and the mess at the bottom of the sink.

























thank you!


----------



## zosoplumber

can't see any photos


----------



## DangerMouse

me neither....
Does anyone out there work on old houses?
don't we all????

DM


----------



## bofusmosby

Yes, I have my own old house that I am working on. BTW, I too have one of these double/concrete sinks in my back yard. The drain part under the sink is rusted/broken off. I was planning to hook this one up again, and install faucets on it. As far as the drain goes, since it will be used outside, I was going to mount a large funnel on the underside, and connect a hose to the funnel to run the drain water out into the yard.

Bofus


----------



## DangerMouse

bofus: was the drain molded into the cement or was it removable?

DM


----------



## helpmyhusband

Hi, thanks for the reply. I am having difficulty uploading images - obviously.
In the meantime, let's discuss this funnel idea. The hubby wants to do exactly that. Only our sink is not outside, it's in the basement, so I am seeking alternatives. Or is there a way to safely adhere the funnel to the sink?

The drain part on the bottom is also rusted and partially broken off. And it is molded into the sink.
Hopefully I can get the photo thing working shortly.
thanks.


----------



## DangerMouse

personally, i would strive to remove the old drain and retrofit in a new one. 
any gluing effort would likely leak.

DM


----------



## bofusmosby

Nope, removal is NOT an option on my sink. The drain is molded into the concrete. If your sink is going to be inside the house (basement) then you might have a problem with the funnel idea. If you have anything connected to the indoor plumbing, then there must be a trap involved to prevent sewer gasses from backing up into the house. If a funnel were to be used, the I believe that the water would have a tendancy to over-flow the funnel before it were to drain into the trap, and then into the sewage drain. You might be able to set some sort of pipe drain (sink turned upside down), maybe uses some sort of epoxy on it to hold it. Then when dry, maybe then add some concrete to it to re-inforce and stablize it. Another words, make it air and water tight. THEN, connect a trap to it, and have it drain into the house drain pipes. You should really listen to what one of our plumbers says about this idea, to see if it would actually work. I take it that both sides use the same drain outlet???

On mine, I have none of the problems. Since it is outside, then there will be no sewer gasses to contend with, and everytime I use the sink, I'll be watering my grass (dirt).:laughing: It is wasn't for me having one like yours, I would say "you have to be able to replace the drain pipe". Well, I am afraid that any type of repair may only be temporary at best. Hmmm, just don' know....

Bofus


----------



## helpmyhusband

Hi Bofus,
Thanks for the reply.
The trap appears to be sub-floor surface. (and in-tact) Apparently, when all this was installed, no one thought about what it would take to repair. ( I have a very old house, with many oddities).
Needless to say, I think if I can get a drain pipe attached to the sink and placed into existing pipe below, it may work. Not pretty, not permanent. How long do you think an epoxy repair would hold? I guess I'd be happy if it held until the summer.
My main issue is the area under the sink to cover. The two sink drains go into one drain pipe hole. Due to the built in bracket size, I believe that the "funnel" area would need to be approx 6" in diameter at it's widest end.
I guess what I really am looking for is the best possible jury rigged solution.
Or maybe just call a plumber while the hubby is at work!


----------



## bofusmosby

Well, I use epoxy all the time, and it will hold quite well. However, everything has its limitations. With epoxy, if any undue force is applied, it may break. Thats why I suggested to then use some concrete to reinforce the pipe, so if some (or something) hits or pushes it, then the concrete will keep the pipe from moving. A trap below the floor??? Hmmm. Thats a noval idea. If you try to fasten a funnel under the sink, I am afraid that the water draining might not be as fast as the pipe drains, thus causing the water to over-flow the funnel. If you can figure out how to post some photos, I'd like to see. Maybe I can come up with something. BTW, I am NOT a plumber, so again, lets see what some of the plumbers say. Maybe thay have faced this situation before, and have a good idea that works.

Bofus


----------



## zosoplumber

Epoxy would hold it in place, as for water proofing, I wouldn't bet on epoxy to water proof it, maybe letting the epoxy set then siliconing the area. i don't like "rigging" things up to work, but you do what you gotta do. pics would be great though.


----------



## DangerMouse

if there is enough pipe underneath, perhaps you could find a PVC pipe to sleeve over the existing? 
THEN use a glue to adhere it to that pipe, THEN silicone the heck out of it?
using pvc, if you used bofus' suggestion of added cement for stability, you'd not have to worry about rusting out any more.

DM


----------



## helpmyhusband

Hi,
Alas, I think I can upload photos. 
Pictured is the bottom of the sink at the drain pipe area and top view of the right bowl drain.
The bottom fixture is rusted, broken and embedded into the cement sink. 
Assuming that photos are now visible, any new suggestions?
thank you!


----------



## DangerMouse

pics worked fine, easier to see what you're having to deal with! if it was me, i'd grind away everything on the bottom with my angle grinder, then round out inside diameter and set in a new drain working from above. it'd have to be a hair smaller, but i shouldn't think it'd be a problem. silicone around the flange, of course. next step would be what? hooking 2 drains together, then to a trap and out? you said the trap is ok and permanent? what's that opening look like? pvc? steel?

DM


----------



## helpmyhusband

Hi DM,
I'm not sure how I would set in a drain from above. See attached cross-view illustration of what I believe I have. There really is no room to go through either drain opening with non-bendable parts. The "built in" elbow (meaning it is part of the cement sink) at the drain is very shallow and narrow.
Any drain pipe parts would have to be attached from below. 
Would this be feasible with epoxy and plenty of silicone?
I like the idea of the angle grinder! Thanks.


----------



## DangerMouse

good drawing, i understand better now. how deep inside is it up the drain hole?
perhaps if you cleaned it out and glued/siliconed a flange to screw pipe to?
you'd most certainly want to flush it and clean it as best as possible with the grinder first.
a sanding wheel on a drill will clean up the inside for gluing.

DM


----------



## zosoplumber

ouch!


----------



## Jenel93

*Old utility sinks*

I have an old cement utility sink as well, and my problem at the moment has to do with sewage. A month ago I can downstairs to my basement and smelled crap! I walked over to my utility sink and saw raw sewage and sewage water almost completely filling my sink. Intried plunging it, hoping it would go down, but no luck. I cant snake the drain because I have an old drain in it, and I don't know how to get it out, or if I even can get can't out! It's getting worse, because it's not going down. Do you, or anyone know how to remove old drains? If anyone can tell me how, I'd me much obliged, because I have the snake.


----------



## Jenel93

Sorry for the typos.


----------



## TheEplumber

The problem is probably not the sink- something downstream is causing the back up
Can you trace the outlet pipe and describe how it connects to the rest of the plumbing drains?


----------



## jagans

The best way to fix this is with a sledge hammer. Break the sink up into small pieces and take it to the landfill. Nothing but a PIA. Hire a plumber to install a new laundry tub with a proper trap. You do not want sewer gas in your house. Not trying to be rude, but this thing is way past its useful life.


----------



## Ghostmaker

I got a brilliant suggestion take a sludge hammer break it up into little pieces and go get a nice new fiberglass sink with legs.... Just saying....

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Swan-23-...undry-Tub-MF-2F/100416028?N=bqkn#.UZF5bspbd6A

Hire a drain cleaner to open up your sewer...


----------



## Ricky391

*New User, slightly different direction*

I have purchased an old single concrete tub for inside my newly constructed barn and have floor fed plumbing to attach. Does anyone have a suggestion where I might find a wall mounted/floor fed faucet? All the wall mounted faucets I have found either connect through the wall (not an option) or from above.


----------



## Ghostmaker

Ricky391 said:


> I have purchased an old single concrete tub for inside my newly constructed barn and have floor fed plumbing to attach. Does anyone have a suggestion where I might find a wall mounted/floor fed faucet? All the wall mounted faucets I have found either connect through the wall (not an option) or from above.



http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/...-with-8-Centers-Polished-Chrome/48300/Cat/526


----------



## Alan

There may be another way to do it. . . . A diagram or a picture of what you're trying to do may help. (Also start a new topic, rather than interjecting into an old one)

:thumbsup:


----------



## Master Brian

I know this is a very old thread, but I'm curious if the OP ever came up with a solution. I'm sort of in the same boat and my drain looks very similar. I have more on the bottom side, so I might be able to slide a metal drain pipe up and epoxy it into place and get mine to work. Of course the other current idea is to use it as an ice chest for the back patio.


----------



## bob22

I am amazed at the number of people who posted their own problems on this thread instead of starting their own.


----------



## Oso954

I guess they don't understand the reply


> I got a brilliant suggestion take a sludge hammer break it up into little pieces and go get a nice new fiberglass sink with legs.... Just saying....


means it isn't worth the time or effort. 
That phrase usually means the person has tried it or watched others try it, with unsatisfactory results.
Put a new sink in. If you want to repurpose it as a planter or a ice/beer container go ahead. Otherwise, break it up in little pieces.

Edit: not sure the ice chest is good idea. You are going to have a lot of thermal mass to cool down in addition to the beer, so it will take a lot more ice than just using an ice chest or even a plastic muck bucket.


----------



## Master Brian

bob22 said:


> I am amazed at the number of people who posted their own problems on this thread instead of starting their own.


I have started my own thread, but found this in my searches and since they have apparently the same setup I do, figured easier to see if they found a useful fix. I think that's why some tag on...

As for the other posters suggestion about breaking it into a million pieces....I won't even get into that discussion. Not everyone has the same likes and values apparently!!


----------



## bob22

I'd try to fix it if you like it that much.


----------

