# Should I anchor my shed?



## ChuckTin (Nov 17, 2014)

Not yes, hellyes!
Auger anchors at least three on each long side. With a eyebolt and a battery powered drill you can put them in (and draw them out) slicker than...

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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If the 6x6s are treated for ground contact I would have removed the grass and set them on the dirt. I think you have built that frame a little over kill. no actually a lot over kill.
You can join to the beams with twisted hurricane tie inside and or flat straps on the outside.
Ask the neighbors what they have done for anchoring, they have what works.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

What would be the best way to do it so I can easily move it? If I do it that way once the floor is in then I won't be able to access it. I guess I could put a floor hatch and then can have lengths of chain from the anchors to the joists. How is this normally done on a building that may need to be moved?


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Nealtw said:


> If the 6x6s are treated for ground contact I would have removed the grass and set them on the dirt. I think you have built that frame a little over kill. no actually a lot over kill.
> You can join to the beams with twisted hurricane tie inside and or flat straps on the outside.
> Ask the neighbors what they have done for anchoring, they have what works.


Their sheds are on cement pads, I was thinking of going that route but I went with a floating design so it can be movable, and way cheaper. For a proper cement pad you need a footing that goes below frost line etc so it can get complicated fast. I was thinking of putting the beams directly on the ground too but figured even though it's PT I don't really want it directly in moisture. 

Though now that I think about it maybe I can anchor the 3 beams down then I can anchor shed to the end of the beams with straight ties. Then if I want to move the shed I can just pull the ties out. Then the shed would be placed on it's new base and then I'd have access to the ties for the existing 3 beams and just pull them out.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If I was moving it to the back, Jack it up, remove concrete slide in 2x10s on the ground and a couple steel pipes, set it down and push.
Moving it side ways is much the same 2x10 above and below the steel pipe.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Another way to anchor the building is to bolt the eyelet of the auger to the frame. Neater than cables and it will hold. See the picture in this link. http://www.homedepot.com/p/PlayStar-Playset-Anchors-KT-76901/203294587


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Nealtw said:


> If I was moving it to the back, Jack it up, remove concrete slide in 2x10s on the ground and a couple steel pipes, set it down and push.
> Moving it side ways is much the same 2x10 above and below the steel pipe.


I'd probably do something like that when comes the time.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

chandler48 said:


> Another way to anchor the building is to bolt the eyelet of the auger to the frame. Neater than cables and it will hold. See the picture in this link. http://www.homedepot.com/p/PlayStar-Playset-Anchors-KT-76901/203294587


Hmm those look interesting and should hold good enough? I think I might go for those, one at each corner.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

So I went to Home Depot and they didn't have anything but also ran into someone I know and between him and staff we figured a wood shed really does not need to be anchored here and most people don't bother as it's heavy enough especially with all the stuff in it. They said even the vinyl prebuilt ones they sell arn't usually anchored even when installed by customers. The ones outside just have a couple concrete blocks in it and that's it. So guess I may be over estimating these winds. The houses around are higher too, so it does take the brunt of it, the shed being lower will probably not see the wind as hard as the house does.

When I think about it my parent's shed is not anchored either, and it's been there since I was a little kid. It's crooked now, but that's because of frost heave over the years and it settling. 

So decided to proceed without doing it, though if I feel inclined after the fact I might look at a way to anchor it after from under or the sides. I can probably get those auger anchors as a special order. I guess I could drive them from the sides as close as I can to the wall then anchor it to the sides as suggested.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

No anchors here also.

I had a tin can shed for 15 years just sitting on patio stones, absolutely nothing holding it down and it never moved a bit.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

You did not say how big the shed will be.

In 2003, I built a 10x12 ft shed with 8-ft walls. The floor is 2x6 PT joists 16-in OC covered with 3/4 in PT plywood. The walls are wood framing with T-111 siding and the gable roof is shingled over OSB sheathing.

The whole thing sits on 30 concrete pier blocks which is on a gravel base. We have had numerous storms over the years, a couple near tropical storm strength, and I have had no issues at all with the shed moving.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I agree with the weight of the shed, it may never move. One of my clients bought one of those metal carports. Installers just drove 2' of rebar with a washer welded on the end into the ground. Client gets horrible winds off the mountain and into their valley. I had to install augers and cables just to keep it from parachuting into the next county.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Oh right never mentioned size, it's going to be 8 x 12.5. 13 would have put me dangerously close to the city's limit (thickness of siding etc would probably put me over) and 12 cut off quite a lot so .5 was the sweet spot. 

But yeah more I think about it, think I'll be fine.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Red Squirrel said:


> Oh right never mentioned size, it's going to be 8 x 12.5. 13 would have put me dangerously close to the city's limit (thickness of siding etc would probably put me over) and 12 cut off quite a lot so .5 was the sweet spot.
> 
> But yeah more I think about it, think I'll be fine.


11 ft 11 inches would have worked better for the T&G floor


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Red Squirrel said:


> Oh right never mentioned size, it's going to be 8 x 12.5. 13 would have put me dangerously close to the city's limit (thickness of siding etc would probably put me over) and 12 cut off quite a lot so .5 was the sweet spot.
> 
> But yeah more I think about it, think I'll be fine.


Not much different than mine. I think it will be fine.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

8 x 12.5? Plywood and lumber comes in units divisible by 4 so that extra .5' is going to be a real hassle and cost extra due to all the cut off material. 
As far as anchoring, look at all the stuff blown around this week in Florida and the Caribbean. If you're getting those kinds of winds, then heck yeah you need to secure it! But, if you're in a milder climate and the shed is protected you can probably get away without it. You have to make that call based on your own wind exposure.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Oh yeah we don't get hurricanes or tornadoes here so it's not quite that extreme. Not much you can really do to protect from that given it will lift cars right off the ground. If your building stays in place, it's the debris that gets it. 

And yeah now that you mention it that extra .5 foot might be an issue as 12 is divisible by 4 so I em left to make a 6" cut. Though with some creativity I'll figure that out. Don't have to do 4' increment cuts the whole way, just need to follow the 16" OC increments. Either way any scraps I end up with will be rectangular and clean so I'll find a use for them.


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