# Shingles with Metal Plates Under Them Lifting?



## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

I have no knowledge when it comes to roofing.

I have noticed that there are shingles where the roof meets the siding of the upper roof that have like these metal plates underneath them. These shingles seem to be lifting or curling...

Is this a problem and what the best way to fix it.

Here are some photos to better illustrate the problem.

Also, looks like I might have some rot there too, not sure. Will have to wait till spring to take the siding off and have a look.

Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers!


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

That's ypur step-flashing. Roofer should have bent them backwards so they would lie flat. He didn't want to nail in the keyway, so he left the nails out. 
I would pull the shingles, and re-step-flash with the proper bend and a wider piece so I could nail them properly if I had to do it.


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

tinner666 said:


> That's ypur step-flashing. Roofer should have bent them backwards so they would lie flat. He didn't want to nail in the keyway, so he left the nails out.
> I would pull the shingles, and re-step-flash with the proper bend and a wider piece so I could nail them properly if I had to do it.


Thanks tinner666 

Sorry, I'm not sure I know what you mean by bending then backwards so they lie flat. Lie flat on the roof, or against the sidewall? Is a keyway the spaces you see between shingles? Are you supposed to put nails there?

Since it's in a dry area, do you think I can wait until the spring or am I just asking for trouble if I do that? Reason I ask is that I'm in Canada, and it's January :laughing:

Is this something a typical DIY'er can do? or should I really consult a pro. I don't want to make things worse. How much would something like this cost on average? 


Thanks so much for the help.

Cheers!


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Wait until spring and get a pro.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Nails shouldn't be in keyways. By reverse bending, at a 90 transition, you only want the metal about 80 degrees so it can be pressed into place to conform tightly.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

tinner666 said:


> Wait until spring and get a pro.


Agreed....

Looks like the roof should be replaced anyhow pretty soon, along with the siding in that area. You can see how it's get discolored and possibly moldy. A qualified Roofer that knows anything about siding, should be able to fix it for you correctly. IMO, a good sider was once a roofer or still is a roofer.


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

Replaced? Do you mean just that section or the entire roof?

It was replaced in 2005. The rest of the shingles on the entire roof are nice and flat, no cracks or anything.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

The shingles look like they are starting to curl. What brand are they? If they look this rough in many places, I would start a warranty claim ASAP. 5 years is usually the limit for getting a decent warranty claim.

Hard to believe anyone was still putting 3 tabs on......


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

MJW said:


> The shingles look like they are starting to curl. What brand are they? If they look this rough in many places, I would start a warranty claim ASAP. 5 years is usually the limit for getting a decent warranty claim.
> 
> Hard to believe anyone was still putting 3 tabs on......


They only look rough like this where the step flashing has been installed. The remainder of the roof is nice and flat.

I don't know what brand they are and I don't know who installed them. The roof was replaced in 2005. I bought the house in the winter of 2006.

The inspector said they were good. Can I go after him? Probably not eh?

EDIT: Also, if you search my other threads, you'll see that I had attic issues that I fixed last winter... This might have started an premature wear on the shingles... But the attic is nice and dry now....


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

earthad1 said:


> The inspector said they were good.


LOL! Good one....... :laughing:

I'm just telling you what I see in the pics. If I'm wrong, you will be fine. If I'm right, those shingles will show considerable wear in the next 5 years. I would get a qualified roofer to look at it. JMO


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

MJW said:


> LOL! Good one....... :laughing:
> 
> I'm just telling you what I see in the pics. If I'm wrong, you will be fine. If I'm right, those shingles will show considerable wear in the next 5 years. I would get a qualified roofer to look at it. JMO


:laughing: I know... 

I do a visual walk every spring since I bought the place... all except where the step flashing is installed it "looks" good. But yea, I will have a qualified roofer have a look when they replace that few row by the flashing... Same with that siding/plywood cuz I think there might be some rot.

Thanks man!


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

I've looked at those pictures, which I'm glad you provided, over and over and I have one question that I cannot figure out: It appears you have vinyl vented soffit's and the corner piece appears to be vinyl. But, are my eyes deceiving me (again) in that you have a "Hardie-Board" type siding which is placed into J-channel for vinyl siding there on the side of the dormer? I agree with the others that you have flashing which was installed wrong causing your shingles to stick up, but IF this is a masonite type siding and is placed into J-channel, that's the first I've ever seen it. Opinion here "tinner": Would this have been better with the long flashing which has the end under the shingles bent back at almost 90 degrees? Thanks, David


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Thurman said:


> I've looked at those pictures, which I'm glad you provided, over and over and I have one question that I cannot figure out: It appears you have vinyl vented soffit's and the corner piece appears to be vinyl. But, are my eyes deceiving me (again) in that you have a "Hardie-Board" type siding which is placed into J-channel for vinyl siding there on the side of the dormer? I agree with the others that you have flashing which was installed wrong causing your shingles to stick up, but IF this is a masonite type siding and is placed into J-channel, that's the first I've ever seen it. Opinion here "tinner": Would this have been better with the long flashing which has the end under the shingles bent back at almost 90 degrees? Thanks, David


I'd have step-flashed the whole thing. At the top, if I couldn't work anything into place, I would have lenghtened a piece to cover my bets in case somebody ever washed the roof with hose.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I'd be a little worried about the water sign at the last piece of soffit near the barge/fascia board, on the right. Hopefully that was flashed correctly, though I can't see any diverter flashing extending down....

The soffit venting is an old style that clogs with dirt easily because the "holes" were punched with a machine. The newer ones have a circular hole, not slot that restricts the air flow when clean. Check from the attic side for light coming in the holes as a lot of times they just vinyled right over the existing small 6x16" cutouts every 8' into the boards, which isn't nearly enough.

Be safe, Gary


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

GBR in WA said:


> I'd be a little worried about the water sign at the last piece of soffit near the barge/fascia board, on the right. Hopefully that was flashed correctly, though I can't see any diverter flashing extending down....
> 
> 
> Be safe, Gary


I didn't catch that! Yes, that is troubling. There if supposed to be step flashing behind the fascia there and emptying out onto the roof like it does at that corner.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

Step flashing issues aside...

If it's vinyl, the "J" channel is best kept off the singles:










It that's fiber cement and you are in a freezing area you may have problems with fiber cement boards in areas such as soffits and roof-wall junctions where they are frequently wetted and subjected to many freeze-thaw cycles:











this is a result of physical freeze-thaw damage, not "water damage" - you can leave such siding in a bucket of water at room temperature for years without deterioration. For this reason, manufactures of such products require "holdbacks" from roof surfaces,










kickout flashing at roof-wall junctions,










separation from grade, and the like.


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

GBR in WA said:


> I'd be a little worried about the water sign at the last piece of soffit near the barge/fascia board, on the right. Hopefully that was flashed correctly, though I can't see any diverter flashing extending down....
> 
> The soffit venting is an old style that clogs with dirt easily because the "holes" were punched with a machine. The newer ones have a circular hole, not slot that restricts the air flow when clean. Check from the attic side for light coming in the holes as a lot of times they just vinyled right over the existing small 6x16" cutouts every 8' into the boards, which isn't nearly enough.
> 
> Be safe, Gary


Thanks for all the help on this everyone. Its very appreciated.

Yea, the soffit is aluminum and pretty old. When I had insulation added last winter the guy did check to ensure light was coming in. He said he could see down there outside with no problem and feel the fresh air. But I'll go back in there and check. If for some chance they did "vinyl" over top, how would I fix that?

As far as the water stain, I "Think" I see what you mean










I never noticed...

Great... that's all I need... I don't understand how people can get away with this shoddy work :furious:. I've had to fix, or at least have fixed, stupid things like this for 4 years now...


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

Thurman said:


> But, are my eyes deceiving me (again) in that you have a "Hardie-Board" type siding which is placed into J-channel for vinyl siding there on the side of the dormer?


Was not sure was Hardie-Board" type siding was, so I googled it 










Another site states: "Hardie Board is primarily made of concrete. It is a fibrous concrete board that termites don't eat."

Mine does not seem to be this. Pretty sure its vinyl.


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