# Best 1/2 inch water shut off valve.



## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

I would not use globe valves for shut-offs. They are not "full flow" and since they are not used often, they have more chance of clogging with deposits. Globe valves are made for metering or flow regulation. Look in the ends of the valve and you will see a small hole on each end. One on the lower side (inlet) and the opposite end it is on the high side (outlet). Check a Plumbing Supply store for brass valves.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Thanks for your insights, Majakdragon.

You said: "I would not use globe valves for shut-offs."

The kind of valve he has in his walls now (which he wants to replace) have a rubber washer that moves forward when the handle is turned to block off the water flow through a round brass opening called a "seat".

Wouldn't those valves be considered "globe valves" too?

If so, it seems to me that if those valves lasted over 50 years since the condominium he's living in was built, they're suitable for this application.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

Since I cannot see the current valve, I don't know what type it is. If you hold a globe valve and look through either end, you will not see anything but the center of the valve. You will not see light.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

globe/gate valves are JUNK. We do not even touch them unless the customer insists that we use them to save 5 or 10 bucks. We use whatever ball valves the wholesalers send us. Brass body, stainless ball, teflon seal. Awesome. They will work for a long long time. Globe/gates will not last nearly that long, and you will end up hating them down the road if/when you need to shut them off.

/end.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

If the current valve handle only turns 1/4 turn to open or close, it is a ball valve. Normally, when the (lever type) handle is in line with the pipe, it is on and when across the pipe, it is off. Globe valves are not junk, they are just made for certain applications, but not shut-off purposes.


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## mstplumber (May 3, 2008)

I would go with a gate valve. The only exposure he would have is with the packing leaking. Just tighten the packing nut down after the valve is opened and it should be fine. No offense, Alan.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

I normally use ball valves for shut-offs unless a customer insists on a gate valve. If so, I place the handle on a 45 degree angle or straight off to the side. This prevents "gunK' from settling in the sealing area of the hate. This is what usually prevents the full closure on them. The gate cannot seal since the surface (a groove in the bottom of the valve) is filled up.


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## mstplumber (May 3, 2008)

Just to be clear, I definitely agree that ball valves are best. Since that isn't an option here, I think gate valves are the next best.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

And, I second the motion that ball valves are best. However, as Mstplumber noticed in my original post, ball valves simply aren't an option here.

I have heard both good things and bad things about gate valves.

The problem I've had with gate valves is that they don't shut off the water flow COMPLETELY. I took apart two gate valves to solder them in as water shut off valves, and then I wasn't able to stop the water flow completely with them; it just kept dripping very slowly. I talked to the sales rep for the company that made the valves (KITZ) and he said it was because I had taken the valves apart. He said that I may have mixed up the cartridges or turned the gate around so that it wasn't exactly the same way it was when the valves were manufactured.

With a soft teflon disk, you always get complete shut off of the water regardless of whether you put cartridge A on valve body B or not.


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## mstplumber (May 3, 2008)

I think you just got bad gate valves or got solder in the gate. I use Nibco brand with no problems and they do shut the water off completely. There is no need to take the valve apart when soldering, there are no rubber parts to melt. Solder the valve with the gate shut to prevent excess solder getting into the gate channel and preventing it from closing all the way. This does create a risk that excess solder could build up on the gate and block the flow but that's pretty rare. Just don't get it hotter than necessary and don't use more solder than you need. A good rule of thumb is 1/2" of solder for a 1/2" joint, 3/4" for a 3/4" and so on. Heat the valve, not the pipe and and soon as the solder flows into the fitting remove both the heat and the solder. 

I have installed literally thousands of gate valves with very few problems. And I'm not talking about some sort of expensive model. You can get a perfectly good valve for under $5.


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