# When is it time...



## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

to finally give up on a vehicle..?

Share stories in this thread about your MOST troublesome vehicles. 

Did you give up on trying to get the pos to run right? Did you finally find and resvolve the issue? If so...is she still parked in your driveway to this day? Anybody regret giving up on a car?

I still can't get my van (95' G20) to run good. The ***** just doesn't seem ready to die though. She fires up everytime, but she just doesn't have enough power...and with scrap prices so low it would be a shame to junk her. And man,*bleep*...I just don't know what to do with her  

Anyways hoping ya'll have some good stories to share (If this is against this boards rules please accept my apology in advance)


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

2 weeks ago I put the second largest repair bill into my '94 Ford F-150. Fuel pump was going out and just going to the grocery store was a chore. 1st was an a/c compressor clutch locking up. They told me I needed all kinds of parts(I think they screwed me over) but I didn't know any better. 
At 250,000 miles, it drips a little oil and I had to rob 1 half of the passenger seat belt to put on the driver's side(worn out latch). It's now a local distance truck.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Tizzer said:


> 2 weeks ago I put the second largest repair bill into my '94 Ford F-150. Fuel pump was going out and just going to the grocery store was a chore. 1st was an a/c compressor clutch locking up. They told me I needed all kinds of parts(I think they screwed me over) but I didn't know any better.
> At 250,000 miles, it drips a little oil and I had to rob 1 half of the passenger seat belt to put on the driver's side(worn out latch). It's now a local distance truck.


..... man, this sounds terrible. And slightly similar to the nightmare that is my van. I'm not even gonna ask how much you put into that truck..

I would't mind having an old 90's ranger... Climbed some pretty serious hills in one. It wouldn't be so bad if I could actually figure out what is wrong with my van though. 

[email protected] at the seatbelt remark


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I would still be driving my olds silhouette if somebody hadn't totaled it in my OWN DRIVEWAY. If my brother hadn't given me a Lincoln Navigator, I would have driven my Villager for the next 10 years, or until the transmission or engine gave completely out. I keep them until they DIE. Check the compression on your engine. If it is low, then the rings or valves are shot. If the compression is good, hey, sounds fixable as a DIY. Spend $27 for a one year subscription to All Data. MUCH better than a Haynes or Chilton.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> I would still be driving my olds silhouette if somebody hadn't totaled it in my OWN DRIVEWAY. If my brother hadn't given me a Lincoln Navigator, I would have driven my Villager for the next 10 years, or until the transmission or engine gave completely out. I keep them until they DIE. Check the compression on your engine. If it is low, then the rings or valves are shot. If the compression is good, hey, sounds fixable as a DIY. Spend $27 for a one year subscription to All Data. MUCH better than a Haynes or Chilton.


Totaled in your own drive...Sounds like a drunk driver.

Heh, yeah I actually read your posts a while back about your bro giving you that LincNav...and gotta admit I was a little jealous just from reading that. Ridulously awesome score on that man. It's funny though...I'm in my early 20's and the first vehicle I bought was a 2001 Grand Caravan for my mom and fam. I wish some **** would buy ME or give me a vehicle  

On the issue of it possibly being the valves/rings...kinda funny that. Someone actually told me to look into that today. Gotta go get the pressure tester kit to do that...Definitely gonna check that next since you mention it as well. Wish me luck. I definitely need it. And thanks for tip on All Data. Will be looking into that as well  

Thanks for the tips!


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I had to replace my 15 year old mini-van last summer. That was a bummer. The only reason was because the automatic sliding side door wasn't as 'automatic' anymore. The last time we opened it, it took a LOT of effort to get it closed again. My husband took it to the mechanic to see if it could be fixed. He said it would cost a little over $2,000 and there was no guarantee that it would work, because there was too much rust underneath. So repairing it didn't make sense.

But that van lasted 3 years longer than I expected it to. One HOT (105ºF) day in July 2012, I was driving home from Detroit and it was acting weird on the highway - like it wanted to stall. I stopped at a light about 2 miles from home and it stalled. It did start again and I barely got it home. Two days later, I told my husband about it and he took it for a test drive. It drove fine for him. And that's how that van was for the next 3 years - sometimes it drove just fine and other times the transmission acted goofy.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

gma2rjc said:


> I had to replace my 15 year old mini-van last summer. That was a bummer. The only reason was because the automatic sliding side door wasn't as 'automatic' anymore. The last time we opened it, it took a LOT of effort to get it closed again. My husband took it to the mechanic to see if it could be fixed. He said it would cost a little over $2,000 and there was no guarantee that it would work, because there was too much rust underneath. So repairing it didn't make sense.
> 
> But that van lasted 3 years longer than I expected it to. One HOT (105ºF) day in July 2012, I was driving home from Detroit and it was acting weird on the highway - like it wanted to stall. I stopped at a light about 2 miles from home and it stalled. It did start again and I barely got it home. Two days later, I told my husband about it and he took it for a test drive. It drove fine for him. And that's how that van was for the next 3 years - sometimes it drove just fine and other times the transmission acted goofy.


$2000 to repair a sliding door and NO guarantee it'll even work!? That's crazy talk, lol. At least you got another 3 years out of it though...I would love to get another 3 outta mine


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Keep 'em coming folks!

Your best auto-horror stories...

Lets hear 'em 🙋


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

4t7 said:


> Totaled in your own drive...Sounds like a drunk driver.
> 
> Heh, yeah I actually read your posts a while back about your bro giving you that LincNav...and gotta admit I was a little jealous just from reading that. Ridulously awesome score on that man. It's funny though...I'm in my early 20's and the first vehicle I bought was a 2001 Grand Caravan for my mom and fam. I wish some **** would buy ME or give me a vehicle
> 
> ...


I was asleep at 1 am and heard BANG! Went outside and my van was smashed. A Volvo S70 hit it, guy was in a daze. I thought he was drunk too, but he wasn't. He swerved to AVOID a drunk, went off the road and hit me. Nobody hurt, thanktully. The drunk got away, though. I miss that olds. It was a winter driving machine! 3.2L engine was indestructible. Timing chain broke IN HALF on the expressway once, towed it home, replaced it, and it ran for another 2 years.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

4t7 said:


> On the issue of it possibly being the valves/rings...kinda funny that. Someone actually told me to look into that today. Gotta go get the pressure tester kit to do that...Definitely gonna check that next since you mention it as well. Wish me luck. I definitely need it. And thanks for tip on All Data. Will be looking into that as well
> 
> Thanks for the tips!


I'd also check with a vacuum gauge. You may have a restricted exhaust causing low power or poor acceleration.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I drove one for 28 years until a "DUMB BLONDE" on the phone T-boned it, Body work was more than a decent 6 year old replacement was a year ago.

Sure I had rebuilt the entire drive train, I happen to be A S E certified tech in my spare time.

But still I do miss the old thing.

It did not have all the new fangled NAGS built in, Low fuel, NAG, seat belt not fastened, NAG, low tire, NAG, keys in ignition when door is open, NAG, oil change due, NAG, low wiper fluid, NAG, and more NAGS . 

I swear the newer ride thinks that I'm an old senile man or something. 

ED


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## Rough Rooster (Feb 7, 2015)

I find that the time to give up is when the monthly repair bill begins to match the monthly payment of a new one. If it is continually breaking and stranding me, then I replace.
Currently have 204,840 miles on a 2000 S10 Chevy 4 cylinder. Will run it till it meets above criteria or I win the lottery and can afford a replacement.

Or the 1985 Ford Crown Vic that is dependable but a gas hog. Drive it to work 3 days a week, no AC. Not economically justifiable to fix the AC.

RR :smile::smile:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

R. R. : Who needs air conditioning, I use the 2-80 air.

2 Windows down, 80 MPH. :wink2:


ED


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## Rough Rooster (Feb 7, 2015)

Ed, when you get out of the northern "cold" country and down into Central Texas the 2-80 just turns into a blast furnace and will cook you.
Good thing I only have a 15 mile commute. Make it in 20 minutes in "Aunt Bea". 
My bride requires the AC to work so she gets the S10. :wink2:

RR :smile::smile:


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

I had a 1985 Ford EXP 5spd that looked like this one:










...but was tan and rusty. It was a 10yr old car when I got it. I bought it from a mechanic friend for $50. He said that someone brought it in to have the timing belt changed and never came back for it. After it legally became his, he sold it to me. At $50 for a running car, there isn't much to complain about. 

The clutch slipped badly. One day I got stuck in wet grass.

I couldn't put an air cleaner in it, because any time that it went over 4k RPM's it would spit flames out of the carburetor as the revs came back down. The cost of a new carb was more than the car was worth, and it ran fine _once you got it going_, so I never changed the carb. Ran without an air filter for 2yrs. 

There was a screw on the carb. To this day, I am still not sure what that screw was meant for (mechanic friend said it was for a flow bench or something), but I called it the "repair screw". If I started the car and it ran like crap, all I did was turn the screw all of the way the opposite way that I had turned it the day before and it cleared up and ran fine. In the colder months, this was required more than once per day.

The body was pretty rusted, and there was even more rust under the car. One night, I hit a pot hole and the entire exhaust fell off. Just broke off right at the exhaust manifold. I wired it up with coat hangers and drove it for a week like that before finally having the time to take it to a muffler shop. They laughed when they seen and heard the car. 

The interior was shot. After ripping most everything out, all it had was 2 seats, a steering wheel, and a dash. I ended up selling it to a guy who was going to take it to Mexico for $200. 

I sold it because I got tired of messing with it.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

The last time I had AC (until I got the Nav) was in 1999. My bro is awesome. He gave me the Nav and said it was getting a little too small. Here he is, shaking hands with the Secretary of the Navy. He is the big guy on the right and has some sort of security job, I don't ask about.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> The last time I had AC (until I got the Nav) was in 1999. My bro is awesome. He gave me the Nav and said it was getting a little too small. Here he is, shaking hands with the Secretary of the Navy. He is the big guy on the right and has some sort of security job, I don't ask about.


I wouldn't ask a man with hands that size anything either.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> I had a 1985 Ford EXP 5spd that looked like this one:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Epic story! Can't beat a $50 car. Haha, and still sold for $200 when you were done with it 😂


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> The last time I had AC (until I got the Nav) was in 1999.


For me, it was 2004. My girlfriend got a new '04 Ranger and I took possession of her '96 Ranger. The AC was problem free for her the entire time she had it since new in '96, but when I got it, it lasted a whole 2 months before the evap core sprung a leak. 

I got a Mazda MX-5 Miata 3yrs ago, and even though it has an excellent AC, I rarely use it because the top is always down.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Check fuel pressure. Should be around 9-13 ibs. I will say this. 9 lbs won't let you climb the Mississippi river bridge here in Baton Rouge. It will stop or slooooowly get up there. I know 8 lbs will not. Been there done that. And what someone said to check exhaust flow as back then the inner tube in the exhaust pipe would collapse but you couldn't see it by looking at it. I ask, did this problem happen all the sudden or slowly over time. Also check return line to see if fuel pressure regulator isn't letting fuel slip past it reducing fuel pressure:vs_cool:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

If the problem is fuel system related (which it probably is), it could be something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. Other possible causes: a bad/erratic TPS sensor. Bogging down when accelerating usually means the fuel mixture is going lean (I.e. not enough gas). A bad TPS will lean out the mixture and cause this. Or, possibly a fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold. If the fuel pressure on the gauge doesn’t change, the regulator is bad. Or, worse, liquid gas comes out, it’s REALLY bad.

Could be a fuel pump, I suppose, but if it idles ok, probably not. If fuel system checks out, look at the coil and/or plugs and plug wires. Amazing how much better a car runs when you change the wires and plugs 

Good luck!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Quote: Amazing how much better a car runs when you change the wires and plugs .

He ain't wrong there, A couple of decades ago a person brought their truck in to the shop, complaining that it would lose power at anything over 50 mph.

Turned out that the plugs had almost 80,000 miles on them and were nearly burnt out. 

Sold them new plugs, and they came back in a couple of days with a speeding violation for 100 in a 65 zone. 

They were ecstatic, about the performance, but bummed about the ticket. 

Told them " BE CAREFUL ABOUT WHAT YOU WISH FOR".


ED


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ChuckF. said:


> I wouldn't ask a man with hands that size anything either.


His nickname is "Big Jimmy" for a reason.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

de-nagorg said:


> Quote: Amazing how much better a car runs when you change the wires and plugs .
> 
> He ain't wrong there, A couple of decades ago a person brought their truck in to the shop, complaining that it would lose power at anything over 50 mph.
> 
> ...


My silhouette literally JUMPED off the line when I changed the plugs and wires. As much, well, as a Silhouette could, I suppose. Like a totally different car. Same with the Villager, BANG! it was THERE, well, for a mini-van.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Ditto on the spark wires. Measure them if you have a meter, look for no more than 10K-25Kohms per foot.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

ChuckF is correct on the measurement of plug wires but I don't look for what the measurement is on plugs wires but just to see if there is ohms. No ohms means a break. Course I have a scope to see it. If it has a break in the wire, it has now 2 spark plugs on that wire cause the spark has to jump the break and then the spark plug gap. Looks like you are gonna need a scanner to see what the systems are doing.:vs_cool:


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Brainbucket said:


> Check fuel pressure. Should be around 9-13 ibs. I will say this. 9 lbs won't let you climb the Mississippi river bridge here in Baton Rouge. It will stop or slooooowly get up there. I know 8 lbs will not. Been there done that. And what someone said to check exhaust flow as back then the inner tube in the exhaust pipe would collapse but you couldn't see it by looking at it. I ask, did this problem happen all the sudden or slowly over time. Also check return line to see if fuel pressure regulator isn't letting fuel slip past it reducing fuel pressure:vs_cool:


I suppose I should check the fuel pressure again. But Ive already replaced the fuel pump as well as a new fuel filter among other things. Only thing else it could be, if it is a fuel related issue, is clogged fuel line/s somewhere, right? Or the the fuel pressure regulator? How to check fuel pressure regulator?

Also any tips on checking for crushed line in exhaust?

This problem occurred over a longer period of time. Probably around 3-4 months before finally not being able to make it up hill to home...What are the implications of 'slowly over time' vs. 'all of the sudden?'


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> If the problem is fuel system related (which it probably is), it could be something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. Other possible causes: a bad/erratic TPS sensor. Bogging down when accelerating usually means the fuel mixture is going lean (I.e. not enough gas). A bad TPS will lean out the mixture and cause this. Or, possibly a fuel pressure regulator. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the intake manifold. If the fuel pressure on the gauge doesn’t change, the regulator is bad. Or, worse, liquid gas comes out, it’s REALLY bad.
> 
> Could be a fuel pump, I suppose, but if it idles ok, probably not. If fuel system checks out, look at the coil and/or plugs and plug wires. Amazing how much better a car runs when you change the wires and plugs
> 
> Good luck!


Bigplanz, I don't believe it is a fuel related issue. I've already checked TPS and it appears alright as documented in my 'Where is the TPS' thread I created some time back. 
I've also replaced the old fuel pump with a brand new $150 fuel pump (should I give name? maybe a crappy pump..?) Also has new fuel filter. Fuel lines appear in good shape. Possibly clogged...idk. I have not checked fuel pressure regulator...? Will have to figure that out?

Van also has brand new spark plugs. I'm gonna go ahead and order and install some new wires as suggested and see if it helps at all. Would be nice if it was just bad wires 😂

Thank ye kindky for all the advice! 🙋


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> Quote: Amazing how much better a car runs when you change the wires and plugs .
> 
> He ain't wrong there, A couple of decades ago a person brought their truck in to the shop, complaining that it would lose power at anything over 50 mph.
> 
> ...


Gonna go ahead and get some new wires. What are some good/quality wires? Or are the discount ones just as good? 

Thanks for the tips! 🍻


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> His nickname is "Big Jimmy" for a reason.


Big Jimmy...

😂


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> My silhouette literally JUMPED off the line when I changed the plugs and wires. As much, well, as a Silhouette could, I suppose. Like a totally different car. Same with the Villager, BANG! it was THERE, well, for a mini-van.


Well **** this many people start talking about new wires making this big of an improvement...Guess what I'm gonna do?

Gettin' me some NEW wires!!

Wish me luck girls and boys. I need it!

🙏


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

ChuckF. said:


> Ditto on the spark wires. Measure them if you have a meter, look for no more than 10K-25Kohms per foot.


New spark plug wires at the top of my list!

Thanks for heads up. Do I ohm them right where the plugs go in?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

4t7 said:


> Gonna go ahead and get some new wires. What are some good/quality wires? Or are the discount ones just as good?
> 
> Thanks for the tips! 🍻


The "house brand" is just as good as the very expensive ones.

Especially if you are an average owner, You're not racing it on the weekends are you?


ED


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Here's a little knowledge gleaned from at least 50 years of fixin cars.

A rubber fuel line will eventually develop a tear in the inner lining of the hose, thus causing a little flap to pull down and plug off the flow under high demand. 

I recommend that you get a few feet of new fuel line, and some worm drive clamps , and replace every rubber fuel line on the 95 van. 

Often after 10- 12 years this has occurred on some of my own vehicles, causing them to cut out / stall at higher speeds or climbing a long hill. 

Your local parts store will know which size hose it takes, there are several sizes for different vehicles. Do not forget the quality clamps, the factory uses the cheapest junk that are not reusable.

ED 

P.S. after dark, go out and raise your hood, start it up.

Do you see a light show under there where the plug wires are arcing all over?

That is a sure sign that they need replaced.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> The "house brand" is just as good as the very expensive ones.
> 
> Especially if you are an average owner, You're not racing it on the weekends are you?
> 
> ...


Very good to know. I'm definitely on the average side. If not below average 😁 I know I'm a just a dumb millenial kid who asks way too many questions. You guys' have all been a great deal of help though. Van's still not running, but hey! It's definitely been a huge learning experience for me. 

And naw, no racing. I may have been a little hard on her though.







😭


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> Here's a little knowledge gleaned from at least 50 years of fixin cars.
> 
> A rubber fuel line will eventually develop a tear in the inner lining of the hose, thus causing a little flap to pull down and plug off the flow under high demand.
> 
> ...


Hey man, believe it or not but all the fuel lines on this van are metal. Only line that's rubber is the 2" hose that connects from fill area to the actual gas tank.

Will def fire her up tomorrow night and see if wires are arcing. Hopefully not raining tomorrow night as well. Thanks for this tip. Also this is a big old skool van so I'll be lookin' in the doghouse not under the hood 😁

🍻


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Every one of us old goats had a mentor that answered our dumb questions long ago. 

We were not born with a magic wrench that had all the details and experience we would need to do what we wanted. 

And it does our old cynical heart good to have an interested party ready to learn from us.

So YOU'RE WELCOME.


ED

There is always a rubber line connecting the tank to the steel line running along the frame to the engine bay, and another one from the frame line to the engine.

This allows the thing to twist and pivot during driving without breaking a line.

Now that I am thinking about it I once saw where an owner had hit a big log and crushed the steel line and these symptoms occurred, look for that also.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> Every one of us old goats had a mentor that answered our dumb questions long ago.
> 
> We were not born with a magic wrench that had all the details and experience we would need to do what we wanted.
> 
> ...


Hahah

🍻


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

See my edit above for another brain nugget.


ED


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> See my edit above for another brain nugget.
> 
> 
> ED


Thanks for correcting me on that. I forgot about those rubber hoses that connect to engine at the front and ones at rear to tank.

I just checked ones at front (3/8") and they appear alright, not collapsed or anything. And now that I think of it, I do kinda remember the ones at rear looking pretty worn when I replaced the fuel pump and filter. Will make sure those aren't collapsed tomorrow. Prob should just replace anyways, but if they are ok I think I'll just hold off on replacing them if they aren't the issue.

I don't think this is a fuel issue though, unless it's clogged/collapsed lines or the bad fuel pressure regulator. I do need to check that regulator out...


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

A bit of safety advice. Don't grab, touch, or rub against the plug wires while the van is running. They will light you up. I learned the hard way.

Also, do you have a Check Engine Light on? I don't remember if that was mentioned somewhere in this thread.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> A bit of safety advice. Don't grab, touch, or rub against the plug wires while the van is running. They will light you up. I learned the hard way.
> 
> Also, do you have a Check Engine Light on? I don't remember if that was mentioned somewhere in this thread.


'

I have no CEL's on. Which with the issues I'm having with the van seems unusual...if my ECU/PCM(?) is bad could that be why?

I've heard those things are nearly indestructible though...there's actually a vid on youtube where a guy shoots holes through one and it still works...


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

No CEL, then I would start with the cheap stuff like plugs, wires, fuel filter, and stuff like that before buying sensors. 

I had the ECU die in a car once. The car just shut off. I thought it was the fuel pump at first, but it turned out to be the ECU. I wouldn't consider that the problem of your van until you've tried other things.

Edit: You said you changed the plugs, but not the wires. Did the van run this way before the new plugs?


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> No CEL, then I would start with the cheap stuff like plugs, wires, fuel filter, and stuff like that before buying sensors.
> 
> I had the ECU die in a car once. The car just shut off. I thought it was the fuel pump at first, but it turned out to be the ECU. I wouldn't consider that the problem of your van until you've tried other things.
> 
> Edit: You said you changed the plugs, but not the wires. Did the van run this way before the new plugs?


Van ran this way before spark plug change. That was reason for replacing them actually. Made little to no difference. New wires are on the way. 

*fingers crossed it's just been bad plug wires this whole time*

😁

🙏


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Also @de-nagorg I think I'm gonna go ahead and take your advice on replacing all the rubber fuel lines and clamps. I just re-read your reply last night about how they develop tear in the INNER lining...so a visual inspection like I did probably not very effective if the tear is in the lining, huh? Do you know if anyone sells a kit that comes with all necessary hoses and clamps for this?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

4t7 said:


> Also @de-nagorg I think I'm gonna go ahead and take your advice on replacing all the rubber fuel lines and clamps. I just re-read your reply last night about how they develop tear in the INNER lining...so a visual inspection like I did probably not very effective if the tear is in the lining, huh? Do you know if anyone sells a kit that comes with all necessary hoses and clamps for this?


I do not know of any kits for specific vehicles.
What I always do is to buy about 2 feet of the proper size hose, and a half dozen or so quality clamps, that way I have enough to do the task.

It is hard to tell on the inside of the old hose unless you split it open with a knife, but this ruins it anyway. 

Fuel does age the rubber liner and it will decay . It is just a matter of time.

Did you see my tip on examining the steel line for a pinched off spot also?

A customer was having this kind of troubles, and it turned out that they had hit a log in the road and crushed the steel line right where it exits the frame in the front.

had to splice in a replacement line and they were on the road once more.


ED


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

Was 22-23 yrs. old when I bought an Olds 442 convertible from my boss at an Exxon station for $1200.








Gold with a white top and a 455ci motor. Was into the drag racing scene at the time and blew the transmission up. $$$ Still have the scar on my thumb from slicing it open while changing the metal intake manifold gasket. lol

Got married and thought I'd settle down so "we" traded it in for a Ford Ranger.
The payments lasted longer than my marriage.:biggrin2:


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> I do not know of any kits for specific vehicles.
> What I always do is to buy about 2 feet of the proper size hose, and a half dozen or so quality clamps, that way I have enough to do the task.
> 
> It is hard to tell on the inside of the old hose unless you split it open with a knife, but this ruins it anyway.
> ...


Alright will probably just do it that way. What is the proper name of the clamps btw? 

I must've missed that part about the steel lines. I have checked them over a couple times before though and they appear in good shape; no pinches or cut bends or anything. The rubber hoses do look pretty worn though...will be doing those in a couple days. 

Thanks again man! 🙋


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Tizzer said:


> Was 22-23 yrs. old when I bought an Olds 442 convertible from my boss at an Exxon station for $1200.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I 💙 these cars stories. Thanks for this one. Bad*** car too, and for $1200; not bad. How many years ago was this? Late 80's?


"we" 😁 hahah. Sorry to hear it didn't last long. 🍻


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Those clamps are sold as GEAR CLAMPS, they are a band with slotted holes , and a worm gear that tightens the clamp.

I remove all the factory clamps on my vehicles, toss them, and replace them with these.

A much better seal, and not an arm ripper like those stupid wire spring crap.


ED


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Gear clamps...Alrighty then. Excellent. Thanks man @de-nagorg!

🍻


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

47_47 said:


> I'd also check with a vacuum gauge. You may have a restricted exhaust causing low power or poor acceleration.


Thanks for the tip @47_47!

🙋

Any advice on how to do this test?


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> The interior was shot. After ripping most everything out, all it had was 2 seats, a steering wheel, and a dash. I ended up selling it to a guy who was going to take it to Mexico for $200.
> 
> I sold it because I got tired of messing with it.



Hahaah, wonder what he had planned for that car in Mexico..

😂 

😅

🙌


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Before you go and replace the rubber fuel lines, get a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield and drive the vehicle. If the fuel pressure moves to the no go zone then address that. If it does good then look for the system that isn't working correctly. It will get expensive throwing parts at it and may as well create another problem.:vs_cool:


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Brainbucket said:


> Before you go and replace the rubber fuel lines, get a fuel pressure gauge and tape it to the windshield and drive the vehicle. If the fuel pressure moves to the no go zone then address that. If it does good then look for the system that isn't working correctly. It will get expensive throwing parts at it and may as well create another problem.:vs_cool:


 @Brainbucket, where do you recommend I hook the pressure gauge up to?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

4t7 said:


> @Brainbucket, where do you recommend I hook the pressure gauge up to?


If it has a schreader valve, use that. If it has none, splice in the line between the filter and the regulator and put the pressure gauge there. There are kits that have the attachments needed to splice into a line.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> If it has a schreader valve, use that. If it has none, splice in the line between the filter and the regulator and put the pressure gauge there. There are kits that have the attachments needed to splice into a line.


No schrader valve on this van, ****

Brainbucket is right too, it IS getting expensive just tossing $$ at this van...money I ain't really got. Think I'm in over my head on this one boys. Really close to just callin' it quits...probably time to move on anyways. 

😭


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Is this a TBI motor?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I don't think that vehicle has a fuel pressure test port. I go to the fuel filter and tap in the outlet side of filter. There are fittings that make it easy. But you may have to modify the hose length so you can see it. Tape it to the body and drivers window and go.:vs_cool:


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> Is this a TBI motor?


Yes, it's a 95' TBI chevy 5.7L 350 engine.

😁

Has almost 180,000 on the motor. Been regularly serviced/maintained most of it's life. But had sat for around a year before I bought it. I'm the 2nd owner.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Brainbucket said:


> I don't think that vehicle has a fuel pressure test port. I go to the fuel filter and tap in the outlet side of filter. There are fittings that make it easy. But you may have to modify the hose length so you can see it. Tape it to the body and drivers window and go.:vs_cool:


You're right @Brainbucket it doesn't have a test port. 

The fittings that make it easy to do this test...do you know what it's called?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

My fuel pressure gauge kit has little T adapters. Plug them in on both sides, thighten them down with clamps and us the long part of the T to connect the gauge.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

4t7 said:


> Yes, it's a 95' TBI chevy 5.7L 350 engine.
> 
> 😁
> 
> Has almost 180,000 on the motor. Been regularly serviced/maintained most of it's life. But had sat for around a year before I bought it. I'm the 2nd owner.


Does it still have the same gas in it from when it sat for a year?


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> Does it still have the same gas in it from when it sat for a year?


Nah, must have burnt thru that tank of gas when I drove it home the day I got it. That was over a year ago...Put almost 3,000 miles on since I've had it.

I don't suspect it is bad gas anymore. Especially since when I replaced the fuel pump the whole tank was cleaned out really good and fresh fuel was put back in. 

Gotta be a dfferent issue...😲


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Do you have the new plug wires yet?


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> My fuel pressure gauge kit has little T adapters. Plug them in on both sides, thighten them down with clamps and us the long part of the T to connect the gauge.


"Fuel pressure guage kit"...got it! 🙋

Hopefully auto store has one I can rent cause I doubt I can afford the whole kit right now.

Thanks @Bigplanz!


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> Do you have the new plug wires yet?


Not yet...in the mail as we speak. Taking forever since I ordered over the weekend. Will post results when I get them in. I would honestly jump for joy if that's all it was. We shall see.

🙏


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I had a 91 Olds with TBI. Super dependable injector, but when the spray got clogged, it went to s***. Take the air filter cover off and look at the spray pattern. It should alternate from one side to the other. You can also check the resistance of they injector. If it doesn't check out, replace it.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> I had a 91 Olds with TBI. Super dependable injector, but when the spray got clogged, it went to s***. Take the air filter cover off and look at the spray pattern. It should alternate from one side to the other. You can also check the resistance of they injector. If it doesn't check out, replace it.


Will definitely be doing this. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the heads up! 👍

Btw I actually ran some injector cleaner through her right before I replaced the fuel pump. Didn't make much difference...maybe the stuff doesn't even work (prob just snake oil anyways 👿) or injectors are fine. Will be lookin' at the spray pattern though still.

Thanks again!


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Update: To whom it may concern

My best friend is having some health troubles. Most all the money I had saved up to try and fix my van has now went towards her hosital bills. She still isn't doing very well and is probably going to need to go back to the hospital...😭

I did get spark plug wires in but haven't had a chance to put them on yet and see if they make any difference. However I really NEED to get this van running good ASAP, because I need to take out a loan with the title to help cover her hospital bills. 

No end in sight to this s***storm I call my life. Honestly ready to just go on a permanent vacation.

🎊 😓 <-------🔫


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

1987 Chevy Camaro IROC Z POS

Long time DIY member never seen this thread, but I have a contribution. Bought a new 1987 IROC Z28 Camaro in Feb 1987. This is my story, the mileages may vary from the actuals due to fading memories.

Car was great for a few months, then the next time I drove it after running the AC for the first time of the year the coolant temps climbed higher than normal when stopped and I didn't hear a radiator fan running. Hmmm.... I checked it out and found that the wires for the lower temp elec radiator fan had been routed during build through the blades of the high temp rad fan, that came on with the first AC use and severed them. Lovely. I should have wised up then that this was a Monday or Friday car and ditched it then. But I am a glutton for punishment so I repaired it myself and soldiered on. What a mistake.

Later that year, with about 10,000 miles I start the car and this blue smoke wafts into the open window. Hello, what's that? Looked suspiciously like bad valve guides or seals on a 100k+ beater. Took it to the dealer and yup, bad valve seals. replaced under warranty.

At about 20,000 miles I stopped for a soda at a convenience store on my way home from work. Came out to go and the car would not go into gear. Had it towed to the dealer who replaced or repaired the TV cable. First and only time I have ever had a car towed in my driving career. Repaired under warranty.

At about 30,000 miles coming home from a weekend trip I hear a clunk, then the car lurches and feels funny, like transmission slipping (it was a 4 speed auto). This got worse and worse until by the time I got to town the car would go no more than 10 mph. I parked it at the dealer and took a cab home. Transmission replaced under warranty.

At about 47,000 I was on vacation in Florida and took off quickly from a light, but nothing crazy, just let the trans shift in auto, then hear a rat-a-tat noise and oil pressure dropped to zero. Great, 1000 mile from home on a Saturday night with a spun or grenaded rod bearing. So I had my friends in the other vehicle follow me as I headed back to MD Sunday. Drove that POS all the way back with zero oil pressure, parked it at the dealer, took a cab home. Engine replaced under warranty.

At about 70,000 miles I was driving up to visit friends that live 50 miles away when the voltmeter dropped to less than 12V. Yup, the alternator had died. Friends had a 1 amp charger so we charged it the best we could overnight and I headed home the next day running on battery. Made it to about 3 miles from my house when I got stuck in a rush hour backup on a little 2 lane road. Cars backed up a half mile to get through a stop sign. If not for that backup... but it died, and in a spot where I could only get it half way off the road. Damn. A neighbor saw me and took me home to get the battery out of my other car and I used that to get the IROC home, luckily before the police had it removed at my cost. Now out of warranty so I had to eat the cost of the then-rare rebuilt alternator that was like $225, real money in those days.

Then about 110,000 the seal on one of the stupid plastic side tanks on the radiator gave out. Had to spring for new radiator. This really wasn't that unexpected but added insult to injury.

With 117,000 miles on the clock I sold the car when it was probably in the best condition it had ever been in. I guess it just took that long to work out all the bugs.

So what did I do after selling the IROC? I bought a 1994 Camaro Z28 that was the most reliable vehicle I ever had. Go figure.... Just sold it a couple months ago.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

raylo32 said:


> 1987 Chevy Camaro IROC Z POS
> 
> Long time DIY member never seen this thread, but I have a contribution. Bought a new 1987 IROC Z28 Camaro in Feb 1987. This is my story, the mileages may vary from the actuals due to fading memories.
> 
> ...


Now this is one helluva car tale @raylo32. 

I think you take the cake with this belated story, Good Sir! Good to see the car and most of your repairs were still under warranty. Don't want to imagine what the repair costs woulda been had it not been. 

😅


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

4t7 said:


> Update: To whom it may concern
> 
> My best friend is having some health troubles. Most all the money I had saved up to try and fix my van has now went towards her hosital bills. She still isn't doing very well and is probably going to need to go back to the hospital...😭
> 
> ...


Sorry about your friend. Get those plug wires on and report back. Hopefully, that's all it is.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Indeed, if it hadn't happened to me I probably wouldn't believe it!

Good luck with the plug wires. I have never had that fix a serious driveability issue since the wires have to be really bad to create a hard miss. But you never know and at least not too $$ to try. Hopefully the labor isn't too bad on your vehicle. On my 1994 Camaro it was an 8 hour book job that I couldn't bring myself to do even when I had half the engine apart to add a performance cam. The wires were still a bridge too far and the original worked fine.



4t7 said:


> Now this is one helluva car tale @raylo32.
> 
> I think you take the cake with this belated story, Good Sir! Good to see the car and most of your repairs were still under warranty. Don't want to imagine what the repair costs woulda been had it not been.
> 
> &#55357;&#56837;


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> Sorry about your friend. Get those plug wires on and report back. Hopefully, that's all it is.


I appreciate the kind words @r0ckstarr 🍻
She's still in rough shape but doing a litte better. 

I will be back with my van in 2-3 days and will be doing those wires then. I'll let everybody know how it goes when I'm done. 👍


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

raylo32 said:


> Indeed, if it hadn't happened to me I probably wouldn't believe it!
> 
> Good luck with the plug wires. I have never had that fix a serious driveability issue since the wires have to be really bad to create a hard miss. But you never know and at least not too $$ to try. Hopefully the labor isn't too bad on your vehicle. On my 1994 Camaro it was an 8 hour book job that I couldn't bring myself to do even when I had half the engine apart to add a performance cam. The wires were still a bridge too far and the original worked fine.


Lol, murphys law was strong with that car 😄

Yeah the wires weren't too expensive. I agree they probably won't fix this serious of an issue, but I already ordered and recieved them so guess we'll see what happens in a couple days when I put 'em on. Should only take 1/2 hour or so. They are pretty easily accessible on this van. I'll let ya'll know how it goes. 

Btw anybody else that has any more auto-horror stories feel free to share! I enjoy reading all of them. Good stuff! 

🎅


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Part of the way through my ordeal with the '87 Camaro I remembered a line from the movie Used Cars: "Red cars are bad luck!" I am generally not superstitious but have not had another red car since.



4t7 said:


> Lol, murphys law was strong with that car 😄
> 
> Yeah the wires weren't too expensive. I agree they probably won't fix this serious of an issue, but I already ordered and recieved them so guess we'll see what happens in a couple days when I put 'em on. Should only take 1/2 hour or so. They are pretty easily accessible on this van. I'll let ya'll know how it goes.
> 
> ...


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I got one but it is a long story. I was stupid enough to buy a diesel Chevy Blazer I think it was a 1978. Great looking truck and would pull the horns off a billy goat. I bought it for a little over $4500 and parked it when it hit about $12,000. 5 motors and three transmissions later the wiring harness burned up. That was the last straw, I hated that truck with a passion after that.

Well some of the motors were my fault and one of the transmissions, one transmission was my son and nephews fault.

I lived out in the country and had 10 acres with some horses. I wanted some good grass so I decided to disk up the field. I had an ole B model John Deere but it messed up so I decided to finish disking with the Blazer. This was a big 4 row disk, shot the diesel. 

I knew a half a-- mechanic who had a good looking short block 350 newly bored hone marks looked new no carbon on pistons. I built the 350 and within two miles it locked up. I took the block back, the guy said he was worried about that. He had lost one of the main caps and just took one off another engine. I was not a happy man.

Found a used 307 ran good for a while and it started smoking so that was number three down the drain. 

I bought a bare block 327 and decided to build it with higher compression, so I bought some high compression pistons and a mild cam. I don't remember the year the heads were but later found out that the 72 heads were the ones what would hold the extra pressure with the sorry gas (Unleaded). I put a water injector on it to keep the ping down. 

Less than 100 miles, burned block between cylinders tore block down saved all the good parts. 

Bought a factory short block 350, installed it and it did hold up until I parked it out in the field. It still was a really good looking truck when I parked it.

The transmissions: The orignal 700 trans finally gave up after a while. It was too expensive to replace or rebuild. I found a T400 trans and the guy rebuilt it and installed it for me. The down side to that is, the guy left the stabilizer bars off. 

My son found an ole ford with no wheels on it, he went to pull the car out of the spot it was in and snapped my transmission in half. Trans was less than 4 months old. I just remembered, the guy who built the trans thought it would be nice if he installed a shift kit in the trans, that sucker would just about snap your neck when it shifted.

Found another 400 trans, and did reinstall the bars, ran good finally for a year or so. One of my nephews borrowed the truck. He called me and said he needed me to tow him back to my house, the wiring harness had burned up. Parked that junk.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Damn Jim, you guys were HARD on that Blazer! Turning it into a tractor... oof!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have to admit, I use to be a little rough on my trucks, you would be amazed what a 4 cylinder 4X4 Toyota would pull. I have a 6 cylinder 4X4 Toyota now, it will literally pull a 1 ton dully sideways, I did it. LOL


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Maybe I'll bring my Toyota Tacoma 4x4 V6 by for some lessons... or not! Mine leads a relatively soft life. It is a good truck.



BigJim said:


> I have to admit, I use to be a little rough on my trucks, you would be amazed what a 4 cylinder 4X4 Toyota would pull. I have a 6 cylinder 4X4 Toyota now, it will literally pull a 1 ton dully sideways, I did it. LOL


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I have a nightmare tale to share. 

In May 1973 fresh out of high school I bought my first vehicle. 

The local Dodge dealer was having a special deal on everything for anyone with a new HS Diploma. I picked out a 1973 D 150, Blue and shiny. 

Oh so proud of my good fortune to have had the money saved from my previous 2 years working for a "retired" hard rock prospector / miner. 

The first time that I picked up a friend to go for a ride in my new truck, I opened the passenger door for her (some of us were raised to be gentlemen), 
The damned thing fell off at my feet, seems that at the factory they forgot to replace the plastic pegs from the assembly line to real bolts. 
Loaded the door in the back, go to the dealer with a complaint, it takes two weeks to get the bolts , because they don't stock parts for new vehicles. 
So three weeks later I get my truck back. 

Then within 3 more days I am cruising down the highway and the damned hood flies up and back, bending the hood over backwards, busting the windshield, scaring the doodoo out of me. 

Back to the dealer I go, Doing my best Yosemite Sam imitation .

Takes a month to get new parts, none available yet for new vehicles.
Seems that at the factory they forgot the bolts for the catch to latch the hood down. 

So now it's late July and I'm back on the road again. Great, or so I thought.

Here I am in town and the differential locks up, ka-blam stopped dead in the street, Get the local wrecker to tow it to the dealer , 

They find that there never was any 90 weight in the differential.

I demanded and got all my money back. After all the truck has less than four hundred miles on it, and has been in for repairs three times. 

Turned out that the Dodge was a late Friday build. 

Went down the street and bought a 3 year old used Ford, and drove it for 10 more years. 

Now I only buy used Fords and drive them 15 - 25 years before giving them up.


ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

de-nagorg said:


> I have a nightmare tale to share.
> 
> In May 1973 fresh out of high school I bought my first vehicle.
> 
> ...


I also had an experience similar to your's, I hate to even say the name of the car, Mercury. New car, less than 6 months head cracks. Took another 6 months because they didn't have one for a car that new. The dealer said they would not do the labor. Did it myself. 

Another six months, coming home with my kids after midnight bowling, rear wheel spindle snapped and came off. Out in the country, no cell phone, long way from home. It was so dark we almost didn't find the wheel. The dealer still wouldn't do anything. Never had another one of those.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I know that US mfgs could barely spell QA back then but that is still pretty bad. On a plus note, 400 miles on a diff with no lube in it.... that's a pretty solid unit!



de-nagorg said:


> Long tale of woe....
> ED


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

BigJim said:


> I got one but it is a long story.


Funny thing about your story. I followed a very similar path as far as vehicle and engines go. 

When I was 14, I bought a '79 Silverado with the money I made from mowing lawns. It was rusted out, and had a dead diesel engine in it, and the plans were to convert it to gas by the time I got my license when I was 16yrs old. It was my fathers idea, so that I could learn how to work on cars and do body work. I think it was a great idea, because I learned a lot.

We put a used 307 Olds boat anchor in it. That lasted a couple months before the oil pump failed while going up the old Galveston causeway. The old one had a tiny 2ft wide shoulder, and wasn't safe to pull over onto. I did not know that my oil gauge was broken. It showed oil pressure, so I kept going until I found a safe place to pull over. I was young and just thought the truck was running rough. My father wasn't happy.

We then put a used 454 in it, which spun a bearing within 6 months. After that, it got a used 350 which was still in the truck when I sold it at almost 18yrs old. 

I sold the Silverado because a friend was selling his shiny, much newer, more reliable Subaru and said he would give me a deal on it. 

After all of the work we did on that truck, I've regretted selling it for a long time. So much that I went back to the guy who bought it, about a year later, with intentions of trying to buy it back. He told me that someone hit him in the side and totaled it out the same week he bought it from me.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

de-nagorg said:


> I have a nightmare tale to share.
> 
> In May 1973 fresh out of high school I bought my first vehicle.
> 
> ...


Not just a late Friday build, in the early 70's Chrysler/Dodge was racked by union strikes and slowdowns. The workers send a message, pay us more or we build junk that will cost you more in the long run. After a week-long sitdown strike, they got back to your truck and said "so where were we on this one?"

https://libcom.org/history/wildcat-dodge-truck-june-1974

I try to avoid UAW products whenever possible.


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Sooooo...it's a blown/leaky headgasket.

LMFAO! 

Pretty sure I'm gonna be scrapping this van in a couple days...😓


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Oh, wow, too bad. Makes sense, tho. And I guess that answers the question: when is it time? But the van can't have been that bad if it takes a head gasket to total it. I have a friend that has a 1979 Caprice sedan that is such a rusty POS I tell him don't let it run out of gas because that would total it. ;-)


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

4t7 said:


> Sooooo...it's a blown/leaky headgasket.
> 
> LMFAO!
> 
> Pretty sure I'm gonna be scrapping this van in a couple days...&#55357;&#56851;


How did you figure it out? Sucks that you bought parts for a car that'll be scrapped.



raylo32 said:


> I have a friend that has a 1979 Caprice sedan that is such a rusty POS I tell him don't let it run out of gas because that would total it. ;-)


:laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

r0ckstarr said:


> How did you figure it out? Sucks that you bought parts for a car that'll be scrapped.
> 
> 
> 
> :laughing::laughing::laughing:


Van had always lost a little coolant (very very little; always thought it was just a little leak in lower radiator hose but could never actually see it leaking) and I would have to top up every couple of months or so. Well I guess that was actually from a pinhole leak in the head-gasket...It seems as if that hole grew bigger and bigger over time. And about a week or so ago after starting van and messing around with it a little I noticed alot of moisture around the head/top of engine on the drivers side. Coolant level had dropped significantly. Guess the gasket must have finally blown all the way and I had an even bigger drop in engine power. It's definitely a blown head gasket though. Lots of moisture on top of engine, rapid coolant loss with no visible leaks in hoses, loss of engine power...I haven't even bothered to look under oil cap after this discovery but I imagine it's gonna look like a milky brown 🙌

Anyways, now I'm trying to decide if this is worth fixing or not. The van really isn't in that bad of shape. Has quite a few new parts on it. It does need new tires, new front wheel bearings/hubs and couple other small things. And of course new head gasket and fresh fluids. Motor on this van is pretty accessible but I've never replaced head gaskets before and I know it's pretty labor intensive job...

I'm open to opinions/advice on what you guys would do with this van 🍻


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## 4t7 (Sep 29, 2015)

Btw, thanks to everybody who participated in this thread. You all have been alot of help and again, this has been a HUGE learning experience for me thanks to you guys! I really do appreciate it. 

And for all the auto-horror stories that were posted I really enjoyed reading them all. Was lmao reading alot of them. Good stuff people 🍻

💃


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