# Enclosing Porch



## joetab24

I've mentioned in some previous threads a desire to do more with a pergola built by the previous owner of my home. It appears my best course of action is to tear the structure down.

How about enclosing my covered front porch? Here are some pics:




























Some neighbors have enclosed their porches with screens. Others have fully enclosed this space and have it heated. 

Here is what I'd like to do:










I've never done a job like this, but I think it is doable. What would be my first step? Framing, I assume. Would I use 2 X 4s? Any help is appreciated! Thanks for taking the time to look!


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## Just Bill

Now that sounds like a workable plan. A bit more expensive than pressure treated lumber, build the frames out of cedar. Less expansion/contraction, takes paint or stain well.


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## joetab24

if I were going to enclose this for all 4 seasons, I found a video that I thought broke the job down into manageable steps


video

I also found these plans:

popular mechanic enclosed porch plans


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## joetab24

I really do not draw well.....are there any programs that I can use to help me illustrate what I want to do with this space?


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## joetab24

alright......this is a work in progress. 

i am going to use this space to plan my project. this will help me think through each of the steps. any tips/advice are appreciated greatly.


from watching the video/reading the plans I linked to it appears that I am going to need to do the following:

1. on the front of the porch (facing street) secure knee wall sole plate to concrete. in the video above, the builder attached two 2X4s, the bottom one was pressure treated and used expanding anchors to secure them to the concrete. the 2 Xs were placed on top of a piece of foam insulation.

2. next he installed a top plate 3 feet from the ground and secured studs.

Next Actions/ Questions

1. I have to remove the vinyl cover (see pics) and expose the existing top plate.
2. I need to determine how many windows I am going to add and the spacing needed for the windows. I am thinking 4 or 5. I will list the measurements tomorrow. I am pretty sure the width of the front opening is 15' 8. Will double check.
3. Am I basically going to frame the windows following the image below?


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## joetab24

maybe I won't put this off until next year


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## joetab24

have spent much of the past week thinking about adding a deck to my back patio, which until recently had a rotted pergola on it.


before i start the deck, which i still haven't gotten the wife's ok on, i want to revisit screening in the front porch. 


because the bugs in our area (SE PA) get pretty nasty by July, I think I get the most bang for my buck by enclosing this area.

i've familiarized myself with the screen tight product that depot sells and I like what I see.

as far as framing goes, this seems pretty basic. Although for me, it will be a fairly big job since I've only ever framed one wall along my basement stairs.

Found this video on screening a porch

http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/screen-a-porch/8055.html 

What should I use for framing? The wood in this video looks a 1 X 4?


any advice/tips on framing to screen in a porch are appreciated greatly. Thanks!


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## joetab24

http://www.ehow.com/how_5300155_enclose-porch-windows.html


i also found this how to......


here is what i am thinking of doing, front view


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## rjniles

IMO you have a beautiful, inviting front entrance area. I think enclosing it without a very serious thought on the style of the architecture will make it look like a wart on a toad's butt. I personally would not change it but if you do, I would consult an architect.


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## joetab24

i hear ya about the architecture, but a lot of the porches on my block are screened in (if you look at the above pic you kinda see that). and the screen tight system appears to me to preserve the "essence" of the porch. in other words, it's not like i am throwing a bunch of vinyl siding up and encasing the space. i guess it's worth it to me to try this. the wood and screening shouldn't cost that much and, in the end, if it's "wart like" i'll dismantle it. thanks for your honest feedback


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## joetab24

*vinyl soffit cover*

as mentioned in a prev thread, planning on framing and screening my front porch.


to do the framing, do i have to remove this vinyl completely?





















if i do have to remove all of this, is there a way to do it that won't damage the material? in case i have to put it back for some reason.

thanks for your help


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## joetab24

a few people have told me that it would be ok to add the top plate to the existing material as long as I am nailing into something solid. what do you think?


also, should I add weep holes (?) in the bottom plate? someone mentioned that, regarding any water that may get in.


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## kwikfishron

You don’t want to nail a plate to vinyl soffit. If it’s in your way, get rid of it. The soffit should be loosely nailed with roofing nails and can usually be removed without tools by just snapping the nail flange over the nail head , you‘ll see what I mean once your looking at it. Start were the last piece of the run is (probably a cut piece) once you get that one out the rest will be easy. Don’t worry if you have to destroy the first piece after that salvaging the rest should be no problem.

There should defiantly be a way for water to escape a screened porch I don’t know about weep holes though. I’d hold the whole thing up 1 ½” having your plate connected to a series of blocks along the bottom with big enough openings so you can hose out without getting plugged up.


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## joetab24

about to start this project.

if you take a look at the columns, they have a stucco finish. is it ok to put a 2X4 right onto the column? 
I am going to use a powder actuated gun, which i know will secure the wood. But am I going to have a hard time getting it plumb?
The other surface that I am questioning is to the left of my front door. The concrete is somewhat uneven. Will this create a problem?


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## joetab24

as a follow up, just doing a dry run this evening to see how things lay out, when I placed the 2X4 against the column there was some contact with the stucco column on the bottom and top of the stud, but a gap that varied in size; it was as large as 3/4" in some section. should i just put some molding over this opening?


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## joetab24

the screen tight system that i am installing has a cap and base system that attaches to the wood so i am going to have to cover the gap (mentioned above) and install the cap/base on the 1.5" side of the stud. is there moulding made specifically for outdoor application? so i am going to have to cover the gap and install the cap/base on the 1.5" side of the stud. is there moulding made specifically for outdoor application?


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## joetab24

the screen tight system that i am installing has a cap and base system that attaches to the wood


http://www.qualitywindowscreen.com/store/images/screentight_...


so i am going to have to cover the gap and install the cap/base on the 1.5" side of the stud.

is there moulding made specifically for outdoor application?


somebody on another board suggested grinding down some of the stucco to create a flat surface for the 2 X4. any thoughts on this?


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## joetab24

*2 X 4 on stucco*

part of a longer discussion about screening in my porch


when I placed a 2X4 against the column there was some contact with the stucco column on the bottom and top of the stud, but a gap that varied in size; it was as large as 3/4" in some section. should i just put some molding over this opening? or should i try to chisel or grind the stucco away before securing the wood? thanks!


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## Ron6519

You can either profile the 2x4 to the inconsistancies of the column or cut the colum to provide a tighter fit for the wood. Your choice.
Ron


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## joetab24

*Screened in Porch*

originally discussed here


just started...this will be the most framing i've ever done.































5' stud was not nailed. Will get top plate in tomorrow.


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## joetab24

Ron, or anyone else,

The top of the column, which has a bulge, seems like the biggest issue. What would you do in this situation? profile or chip/grind the stone?

Not sure if you can tell from the pic


http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/screened-porch-69908/


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## Ron6519

It depends on the size of the bulge. You want to be concerned with the visual. It might mean removing some of the stucco and profiling some of the wood to reach a happy visual medium.
Ron


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## joetab24

*plumb bob*

framing my porch so I can screen it in


this is the largest framing project i've ever done

trying to place the top plate in line with the the top of the knee wall


just want to make sure i am using the plumb bob correctly





this is close to the edge but i need to move it slightly to get it in line










in this picture, the nail is slightly bent. i will do again and make sure the nail is straight. when i get it right, can i rely on the nail hole to place my top plate or is that not precise enough. i know this is a novice question and I thank you for your help


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## tpolk

if you want to get picky how do you know the string lines up with the hole in the ceiling. great to see you using a plumb bob
are you trying to transfer up or down? if down use an eye hook


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## kwikfishron

I’d just cut a straight 2x4 the snug length between the plate and soffit and throw a level on it.


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## tpolk

kwikfishron said:


> I’d just cut a straight 2x4 the snug length between the plate and soffit and through a level on it.


wheres the fun in that:laughing:


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## Scuba_Dave

_Please keep all of this in one thread_
_You had 6 different threads on different questions about building this_
_Thanks_


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## joetab24

sorry scuba....wasn't sure if different topic/same project was supposed to get a different thread. won't happen again.


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## tpolk

if you need to scribe to a column can you turn your 2x parralell with the plate and still have your system work. maybe add a second to the inside for stiffness


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## kwikfishron

If your going to attach your plate to the vinyl soffit (was discussed before) don’t nail it, use screws and make sure they go through the grove part of the soffit and not the squishy part.


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## Jim F

I second the poster who said what a shame it is to close in that great front porch. I have seen so much beautiful and historic architecture uglyfied this way. But that indoor living space has become so precious in modern times.


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## kwikfishron

How is the water going to escape your screened porch (discussed before)?


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## joetab24

thanks for the tip on the eye hook....that worked perfectly.

tomorrow i will get the top plate up and add studs to the front section.

i still have to get a door. i am leaning towards a pressure treated door, as opposed to vinyl. is there a reason to go for vinyl?

regarding water, even unscreened we don't get much on the porch. a few neighbors have screened porches and I haven't seen any space left for drainage. I understand the concern but based on how the dry the porch tends to stay normally, I think I will be ok.

although this is my largest DIY job to this point, I am confident/hopeful that even those who seem to be against screening (a lot of neighbors have enclosed their porches completely with vinyl siding/drwall and I think that takes away from the curch appeal) will see that I am not going to do a half [email protected] job. I am really determined to take my time and do this right. we really don't use this space as is and i guess if we alter the appearance slightly, gaining access to some more "living space" is worth it. this, i guess, is more of a philosophical/aesthetic difference than anything. i respect that. thanks so much for all of your feedback, and I will keep you guys updated :no:


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## joetab24

an update-

i removed the knee wall i built. i was having a really tough time stick framing. made an attempt at framing a 5' section of the wall on the ground and lifting it in place. this was much easier. i know framing on the ground is easier, but i avoided doing it this way since the porch is somewhat uneven. one mistake i made was building the wall in my driveway and then attempting to move it to the porch, which was obviously a mistake. if i am going to continue framing on the ground i am going to have to do it on the porch which doesn;t give me a lot of room to work.
------------------------------------------------------------
feel like i am getting the hang of this. updated pic.


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## joetab24

as of 5/3...still need to finish the top pieces....


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## tpolk

if you have bugs what a nice place to sit all screened in:thumbsup:


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## joetab24

need some help on how to approach the finish work for the interior of my enclosed porch...i need to start by figuring out the best way to fill in/cover the gaps i mentioned previously.

on the outside there is a base and cap that is used to hold the screening










Cap and Base
http://screentight.com/prod-screen-tight.shtml


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## joetab24

almost done...so many hours spent doing this


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## Scuba_Dave

I was looking for more pictures
Then I realized I needed to scroll right...fixed that
Looks good !!
I sometimes wish we had a front porch

I don't think I realized that this is a duplex, so only 1/2 is done
Too bad your neighbor didn't want theirs screened
But that would have been a lot more work :laughing:


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## joetab24

a few more pics in better light
still need to fill in the open corners...and do some caulk/finish work


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## joetab24

all screening installed. trim and caulk work remain. may be staining interior wood.rigid foam and caulk on each corner. may add quarter at gap where caulk and trim are.


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## joetab24




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## rjniles

Awfully big gaps around the screen door. You need to install stops to close up the gaps and give something for the door to close against.


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## joetab24

thanks for taking a look.

i know. i removed the stops to install the door latch. how does everything else look?


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## rjniles

I was one on the early on posters who had concerns about changing the look of your house. What I said was:

"IMO you have a beautiful, inviting front entrance area. I think enclosing it without a very serious thought on the style of the architecture will make it look like a wart on a toad's butt. I personally would not change it but if you do, I would consult an architect."

I would like to see a picture from the curb so I can see an overall picture of your project. The work that you have done looks fine but I would have liked to see use of more traditional materials which reflect the period of your home.

Just me maybe but I hate to see vinyl on old houses. Screen tight is an easy product to use but I do not think it adds to the historic look. I would add pickets to the lower section of the screening. It will be a more period look and will add protection from kids and pets.

BTW I do not think your job looks like a wart on a toads butt


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## joetab24

again, I appreciate the feedback RJ.

here is a curb view.


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## gma2rjc

Nice job. Did you get a lot of use out of it this summer?


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## joetab24

thanks 


almost done but my progress has slowed considerably since back to work, a teacher. still working on the interior molding and tinkering with some early mistakes that were bugging me.


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## Evil Scotsman

joetab24 said:


> have spent much of the past week thinking about adding a deck to my back patio, which until recently had a rotted pergola on it.
> 
> 
> before i start the deck, which i still haven't gotten the wife's ok on, i want to revisit screening in the front porch.
> 
> 
> because the bugs in our area (SE PA) get pretty nasty by July, I think I get the most bang for my buck by enclosing this area.
> 
> i've familiarized myself with the screen tight product that depot sells and I like what I see.
> 
> as far as framing goes, this seems pretty basic. Although for me, it will be a fairly big job since I've only ever framed one wall along my basement stairs.
> 
> Found this video on screening a porch
> 
> http://www.diynetwork.com/videos/screen-a-porch/8055.html
> 
> What should I use for framing? The wood in this video looks a 1 X 4?
> 
> 
> any advice/tips on framing to screen in a porch are appreciated greatly. Thanks!


That kit Rocks! Not sure how much it costs, but looking at that video it would be worth it to me!:thumbsup:


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## joetab24

all screens are out, caps and bases removed. back to where I was in May with this project. I want to get it right and I had a lot of early errors to correct. I don't want to be the guy who half asse! a DIY project. I want to get it right, and I will. The many posts/projects I've viewed on this site have showed me that it's better to admit when something could be done better and do it, even if it means not finishing a job as quickly. Updates to come.


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## no1hustler

Great attitude!


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## Jim F

joetab24 said:


> all screens are out, caps and bases removed. back to where I was in May with this project. I want to get it right and I had a lot of early errors to correct. I don't want to be the guy who half asse! a DIY project. I want to get it right, and I will. The many posts/projects I've viewed on this site have showed me that it's better to admit when something could be done better and do it, even if it means not finishing a job as quickly. Updates to come.


I also have learned the hard way through redo's and do overs on projects.


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## joetab24

*a few steps back....*


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## joetab24

I am thinking I'd like to build screens like this guy did, as opposed to attaching the base and cap directly to the frame. He actually used screen tight materials.































I could then insert the screen I build into the opening. The benefit to doing this way would be I would then be able to cover the framing with a molding of my choice. One of the things I really didn't like when I was close to being finished was the way the 1.5" screen tight cap (the white piece) looked when each piece was adjacent to one another. i really don't like the way the plastic or vinyl cap looks, but I definitely think the photos above of the separately built screen is an improvement.

Post #38 in this thread sort of shows how the white pieces look bad when butted up against each other. If I had to do this project again I would use less wood when framing, but I had to build the porch frame in smaller sections since i was working 
alone. smaller sections meant more wood which means more bases and caps. they're kind of cheap looking.

another idea i had was to use single caps/bases going up the seam of the 2 2X4s. Wouldn't be able to use nails to secure the base though. I'd have to use an adhesive. Part of the 2X4s would be visible, albeit beneath the screen.


any thoughts/ideas?


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## joetab24

found the text quoted below tonight while reading this document

"If you construct cedar caps as we did, start with 1x4 strips cut to the same length as the vinyl bases. Cut a 3/8- x 1-7/8-in. rabbet running the length of each strip, and screw the caps over the bases using 1-1/2-in. stainless steel screws (photo 14)."


on pg. 41 of this pdf file there is a pic of the custom cap they made. i like this idea because it would allow me to avoid using the white vinyl cap.


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## cocobolo

Joe...one of our most excellent members here has just done a whole lot of screenwork. You might drop by her thread and ask a question or two if need be...

http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/screenhouse-woods-77856/index8/


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## joetab24

working on screens for "custom made" screens. I will get this done!

Exterior View 
http://flic.kr/p/9y7tqr

Interior View
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5614245345/

"Custom Made" Screen
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/5614245699/


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## Jim F

The biggest problem with an area like that is everybody is going to see and critique your work even if they don't tell you. I don't blame you for wanting to get it right.


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## joetab24

I know. And the neighbors must think I am crazy, with how long I've been doing it. Putting something up and taking it down. I've got a plan and the skills to execute. Had the plan for a while just needed to develop my skills.


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## joetab24

as I mentioned above, much to my wife's dismay I got this far and dismantled it all back to the frame.










I could do a lot better and couldn't stand looking at it every time I pulled into the driveway.

My question. I have a lot of plastic (actually a composite known as timbron) molding in my basement that i purchased and really won't use for this project.

Now that I have a table saw, i was considering using it for some of the interior molding. made a few cuts on my new (used) table saw and placed the piece of composite vertical.










i primed and painted the window stops out of pine. should I stick to pine, or could I use the timbron for some of the vertical pieces?

i am also making my screens for this project.


















old house. as a rookie, it's been a struggle dealing with nothing being square. i've developed a lot of skills along the way and have acquired a bunch of tools!

thanks for taking a look!


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## joetab24

the screentight is supposed to go on the framing, which eliminates the need to make your own screens.

a closer look, before i dismantled what I had done











you may be able to take a closer look at this cropped version











the problem I had, and the reason I didn't like the look of the screentight, was that I framed the front in three sections (2 X 4s). it was easier for me alone and I didn't realize how bad the screentight would look when it was butted up against another piece (see pics above). it also doesn't look as good if everything is not square, which for me was very difficult given the age of the house. and finally, I struggled putting the spline and screen into the track standing on a ladder or platform. i eventually did it, but it took me a while. making the screen frames and adding the spline and screen is much easier on the ground.

so what I decided to do was use the screentight on the screens I build, but add molding to everything else. it actually looks a lot better, but it is much more work.

where I am, as of today


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## no1hustler

It certainly does look better Joe. Kudos for not settling for what you viewed as sub-par.


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## joetab24

made the cuts to see what it would look like











I still have to add the screen frame/screen, but I think it works.


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## kwikfishron

You may want to address the sills that are almost falling out of the dados before you go too much further.


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## joetab24

I hear ya Ron.

I added the dados after everything was framed. I didn't like the way the horizontal pieces looked when just nailed in. I carefully made a bunch of crosscuts with a circular saw and cleaned out the dadoes with a chisel. 
Everything is wedged in pretty tight, although I do agree I could have done much better. I've added some screws to add additional support. 

Because I am not 100% square with the vertical pieces I can't get the horizontals in any better. They haven't loosened at all even with the expansion and contraction.


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## joetab24




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## joetab24

looking better? I feel like it is. I've taken trial and error to the extreme with this project. But I definitely can tell in recent weeks that I am taking many more steps forward than back. Feels good to see everything coming together.


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## kwikfishron

Looks good Joe.


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## joetab24

Can anyone suggest a composite that I can use for the wider vertical and horizontal pieces? Up to this point I've been ripping the timbron that I purchased early on in this project. Glad it didn't go to waste. I need pieces that are over 4.5" wide.


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## kwikfishron

You already have it half trimmed out with Timbron, go get some more.


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## joetab24

hey Ron, 

as far as I can tell, they don't carry the widths I need. Poor planning on my part.


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## kwikfishron

You can’t be a trim man without owning a table saw.

You make your own pieces.


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## joetab24

I finally have a table saw, a Delta contractors saw off of craigslist. My issue now is finding something that I can rip to the proper width/height. I've ripped the timbron down to about 2 1/2" for the pieces around the windows. They are now white/no profile, should be easy to match. I am going to bring a piece of the timbron to a lumber yard that also sells some composites. It looks like Aztec has what I am looking for. thanks for taking a look.


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## kwikfishron

Use a router to profile the cut edge. 

I’m not sure why you would switch brands midstream. I don’t do plastic so I don’t know the brand differences but I know that all whites are not created equal and you may have color match problems if you switch.


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## joetab24

some updated pics... using AZEK


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## joetab24

One more thing. 

I didn't use the router on any of the above pieces (in the latest pic). My wife is really on me to get this project done:thumbdown: 

All of this is new to me. I've definitely learned a lot over the past year, and I'm trying to get this done RIGHT!

I was playing around with the router on some scrap.









could I use this roman ogee profile on JUST the 3' high horizontal pieces? to soften things a bit. or do I need to use this profile on all pieces if I use it on these horizontal pieces?

as always, thanks for the feedback!

how does the pic I posted earlier look? I feel like it looks decent, but it is hard to be objective when you've spent as much time on this project as I have. Like a lot of you, I am sure, I am really critical of my work. Although, unlike a lot of you, my criticism is often legit. I admit it


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## joetab24

(removed message)


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## joetab24

do you think the wider horizontal piece looks too big? nothing I can do about it, since this is how I managed to avoid using the cheapo screen tight materials that I didn't like.


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## joetab24

pulled out the compass...

before












after, using compass


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## joetab24

getting siding profile for molding











doing it this way worked better for me than trying to scribe it.


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## joetab24

I'd like to get into the habit of posting a weekly to do/update.

This is the interior view. I plan on completing this section by this time next week.


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## tpolk

depending on size of router you could add profile after material is in place, so no need for mitered corners


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## joetab24

7/5

-worked on scribing the post profile for the the interior left side, top. (got a template for it)


-worked on scribing the post profile for the the exterior left side, top. (got a template for it)

-tomorrow i plan on buying some AZEK trim and getting most, if not all, of the inside molding in.


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## joetab24

exterior front, done!


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## gma2rjc

It's looking great Joe. Your wife must be happy pulling up into the driveway and seeing how professional it looks. :thumbsup:


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## joetab24

was thinking about how much I spent on this project. I actually stopped keeping track of the $ spent on this project half way through. Probably around $2500-$3500 if I had to pull a # out of the air. I did get some tools along the way, including a table saw, and I learned a lot of valuable lessons/skills. I also gained a lot of confidence and humility along the way.

Not sure what a pro would have charged; I do know he would have had it done a lot (a lot!) faster. Regardless, if I would have paid someone to do it, I am pretty sure I wouldn't drive around the block three times to see how seamless a corner looks. Or be able to talk for 30 minutes about that one section of molding on the inside corner, not that anyone but me enjoys that story!


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## joetab24

on to the inside...

tougher to get good interior pics


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## joetab24

a better shot...


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## joetab24

haven't nailed anything yet, but seems like a good fit, with a bit of caulk.
after spending a lot of time on a template and not being satisfied with my work, I decided to draw the lines right on the piece and cut.came out better for me. I need a more rigid material, next time, to make a template. 

are the spaces too big?



















I'm noticing the gap widens as I move down the board.

so, I am pretty sure, areas that are touching need to be cut back slightly to close the gaps. i have done this for corner gaps, but with such a large piece I am not sure of the best approach. do I start at the top and work my way down,looking for the first piece that is touching and then cut it back a bit?

once I do that will i immediately know if I made some progress? or do i have to shave a bit of every piece that is touching before I will know how much progress I've made? each of the pieces that jut out seem to be touching.


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## joetab24

I'm noticing the gap widens as I move down the board.

so, I am pretty sure, areas that are touching need to be cut back slightly to close the gaps. i have done this for corner gaps, but with such a large piece I am not sure of the best approach. do I start at the top and work my way down,looking for the first piece that is touching and then cut it back a bit?

once I do that will i immediately know if I made some progress? or do i have to shave a bit of every piece that is touching before I will know how much progress I've made? each of the pieces that jut out seem to be touching.


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## shumakerscott

joetab24 said:


> I'm noticing the gap widens as I move down the board.
> 
> so, I am pretty sure, areas that are touching need to be cut back slightly to close the gaps. i have done this for corner gaps, but with such a large piece I am not sure of the best approach. do I start at the top and work my way down,looking for the first piece that is touching and then cut it back a bit?
> 
> once I do that will i immediately know if I made some progress? or do i have to shave a bit of every piece that is touching before I will know how much progress I've made? each of the pieces that jut out seem to be touching.


I know you want it to be perfect. From what I see in the photo's your close enough, now set it and caulk it. You will be the only one who knows. After time you'll even forget that you had just a bit of a gap on that difficult piece. Great job. dorf dude...


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## joetab24

thanks dorf....

I struggle with walking away from a step if i think I can improve upon it. But, in this case, I think I need to. Thanks for the feedback!


joe


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## joetab24

so the last section that I will need too scribe is this: (disregard the scraps between the wood and stone. i wedged a few pieces of scrap in to quickly see how thick the gap was)

note: the neighbor put up blinds, pulled them down, never to raise them again. apparently not wanting anything to do with me and my family. we've actually cleaned the exterior up pretty nicely, I like to think (see pics below). But I have been working on this project for a while. I guess he got sick of it.













i am thinking the accuscribe might not be the best tool for this. it rides kind of choppy along the stone surface.











not sure there are any, but any tips for scribing a surface like this?

as always, I appreciate your help/support on this project...nearing the end (finally!)


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## shumakerscott

Joe, I use a Dollar store cheapo for scribing things. If I can't find it then I just make one, You can use a Sharpie marker and tape it to a small block and pull it down the wall. Being mounted to the block will smooth out the over all trace. dorf dude...


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## joetab24

shumakerscott said:


> Joe, I use a Dollar store cheapo for scribing things. If I can't find it then I just make one, You can use a Sharpie marker and tape it to a small block and pull it down the wall. Being mounted to the block will smooth out the over all trace. dorf dude...


Great tip dorf dude....

Tried it yesterday on some scrap, and it worked real good! Post some pics when I am done this section.


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## joetab24

back from a vacation. 

nearing the end of the exterior....











the horiz. piece on the right is off a bit. when I add the white molding the error is hidden. the piece against the siding will be easy since I got the siding profile almost 100% on the interior. 

a mistake I made near the end of my work was bigger. I cut the right vert. piece almost a half inch short:furious:

I can prob find another use for this piece....

a nice week in Wildwood NJ, but check out this storm cloud


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## joetab24

some good progress today...


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## joetab24

harder to get pics of the interior...still a few pieces needed, but almost finished this section....


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## joetab24

had someone on another board offer some constructive criticism. with this project,I am used to it and usually benefit from it. 

where he went I was a bit caught off guard by:










he pointed out that the wall is not symmetrical, and he is correct due to the fact that on the left side the white post is on my neigbor's side. I live in a twin. On the right side, I turn in at the post. 

An eyesore? Worth making symmetrical? Just curious....

Also,










he pointed out that the mismatch in color with the other stones, which are almost flush with the ground. I recycled them. They had originally been used for by a prev owner for the wall.










proud of myself for not just tossing them. Using two different color stones, an eyesore? Worth redoing...

I know I need to do more with the garden bed in front of the wall, but I am waiting until I am done trampling on it with the porch project.

Thanks for taking a look :thumbsup:


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## kwikfishron

I think the block flower bed looks fine.

The important question is what does the wife think?


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## joetab24

my wife was staring at the right horizontal piece, telling me it seemed off. i'll take another look with the level tomorrow. does the right side seem off in the picture? i don't see it.


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## kwikfishron

What’s up with that in the red circle. I’m guessing that’s what she’s talking about.


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## joetab24

well, I've spotted what my wife is noticing.
the openings to the left of the door are about 1/2" smaller (less wide) than on the right side. Don't think I can do anything about it, except notice it every damn time!! 

Well, I am learning. Be anal in the beginning and you can be less so later in the project.

reasons to leave it alone
-not street view side, although still visible
-my wife may lock me out if she sees me taking down a section that was supposedly finished


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## joetab24

down the homestretch. lately, i am more productive than my wallet can handle.
want to get this done, though.

did some work on the inside









also, purchased 2" stainless steel screws to start fastening everything secure to the frame. i will be painting the AZEK when finished.


can you find the football in the photo...


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## joetab24

progress today












I now need to get the inside of the door done (see pic above).
I also have the interior section that separates my porch and my neighbor's to finish.


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## Jim F

I scrolled back through to the beginning. I barely remembered saying that it was a shame to close in that porch. I have to admit I was skeptical that such an enclosure could do anything but detract from the architecture of an older home but that does look nice. You're current enclosure looks at least ten times better than your original attempt. The screen will keep insects off your front porch and it looks like it may even give you a little privacy from nosey neighbors. Nice job! Time to finish up and start enjoying.


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## joetab24

taking a break for a few days from the porch to paint the kitchen and back play room.


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## Cyltiesue

Jim F said:


> I second the poster who said what a shame it is to close in that great front porch. I have seen so much beautiful and historic architecture uglyfied this way. But that indoor living space has become so precious in modern times.


Hi Jim I understand you point of view but would like to add some insight. I also live in an 80 year old home, built in 1939, which is choc full of character. It has front and rear porches like the one being enclosed. The problem we have to endure on a daily basis is someone had the bright idea to build a Mall about 1.5 miles west of us and our once quiet country road is now a major highway. My living room, where we spend most of our time, is directly behind the front porch. Even though we have installed state of the art vinyl, double glazed windows the traffic noise is continuous and extremely annoying. Enclosing the porch is an effective and economical way to allow us to continue to live here and enjoy our historic home.


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## Snav

Joe! I love it - it looks great and inviting. At my house - I wish I had one so I could enjoy the snow or storms without being in it! Sometimes summer is the only time that you can use an open porch. I love your door - that's classy.

You sound like how I am sometimes: If I have to go back and redo something I try to do it when hubby's not home - like when I changed the paint color in the kitchen or added in more joists to the deck because I worried that I spaced them too far apart.


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## joetab24

Thanks for the kind words


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## joetab24

for a variety of reasons, I've had to wait a while to get back to work on the inside of the porch.

the issue I am wondering about has to do with the hardware for my screen door. 



When I bought the door, I picked up this piece. 



















I'll have to make some space for the door latch. 

Practiced creating the space with a piece of scrap and I my router. I can do it better, but it doesn't seem like it is going to be a problem.










Curious if this is the type of hardware you would use for a porch door.

As always, thanks for taking a look.


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## joetab24

as I get some extra cash, where I will be working


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## joetab24

some Spring pics...

i should know this, but are these rhododendrons?





























Still have a bunch of work to do to make the landscaping look better. And I also have some finishing work to do on the inside of the screened porch. I chip away at it here and there. Money is tight right now, espcially with a trip to Disney on the horizon. I lost the vote on that 3-1


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## joetab24

Thanks!


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## joetab24

Updated Interior Pics


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## joetab24




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## joetab24

Though finished, one of the big issues I am going to face is going to be maintaining the screens, especially since, as the project progressed, I ended up improvising a bit, not liking the way the ScreenTight kit looked.

The picture below shows that in order to replace the screen I am going to have to remove some of the molding, which is doable but more hassle than I would prefer. I am considering building screens that I can easily remove to repair, tighten when necessary. These screens are large, so that may be a factor. They are roughly 5' X 4 ', or something close to that.


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## Knucklez

this is just an idea.. but you could use magnetic tape around the screen window frame (sticky on one side, magnetic on the other). on the window frame you install some flat stock 1/16" thick steel to give the magnet something to grab on to. then you just lift the screen into place and SNAP it is held there. easy to remove at any time.

ps. i think your portch looks fantastic!


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## Bob Sanders

On screens that size you may want to consider adding chicken wire. I worked this out after my dog kept shoving her paw through the screens! Remove the screens and staple up chicken wire first, then overlay the screens on top of the chicken wire. You can't really see the chicken wire from a distance, only when you get up close, but it adds a lot of strength and cuts the maintenance down quite a bit on the screens.


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## joetab24

thanks for taking a look and giving me some tips! Always appreciate it.

joe


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## joetab24

Considering taking down


It's been almost 5 years. Porch still looks good, but I really underestimated how having to see even little mistakes I made would drive me nuts. Also concerned that as times goes on it will start to look less good. Moving forward biggest maintenance issue will be the screens. Up to this point haven't had to replace any but the door.


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## joetab24

New siding soon. Going to tear the screened porch down. And honestly, as much as I enjoyed doing it and as good as it still looks from the street, I am glad it is coming down. Enough evidence, especially on the inside, that a novice did it, that it drives me nuts. Was a fun project! Cost me a lot more time than money. And I ended up with a nice used contractor style table saw. 

Joe


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## kwikfishron

Just think about what you learned. :wink2: So what's next?


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## joetab24

What's next? Going to have to fix some of the things I messed up, such as this section that I nailed into. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5yA9OoW_XgJOXN0eU56Q2VuQzg/view?usp=sharing


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