# Multi-level drop ceiling



## lb37illinois (Nov 15, 2008)

How can I build a soffit out of drop ceiling tiles instead of drywall, etc? I have to build a multi-level drop ceiling due to a metal beam and water pipes.


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## iMisspell (Jun 2, 2007)

You could always box out the beam and pipes with some nice wood trim/planks.
Im gonna run into the same thing when i go to finish my current basement, pretty sure thats the rout im gonna take.

If your fixed on your current plan ("_instead of drywall, *etc*_") how about some type of adhesive and maybe hinges for the pipes side so you can still have access to them if needed..


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

You build a frame from the same grid used for the rest of the ceiling. Small pop rivets, colored (to match the grid) are used to keep things together. If you cut the tiles tight, they will often stay in place by themselves. If they don;t you will need to devise a method of keeping them in place.


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

You usually start with your main ceiling and use a main T runner where you want the soffit to start. Then you cut 2' T's and bend over a 1/4" or so lip to sit on top of the main T and pop rivet them using white pop rivets like mentioned. Then attach a peice of wall angle to the verticle T's with pop rivets and then use T's to build the under side of your soffit. It really helps to start things off using a bunch of those little clamps to hold things in place so if you need to you can make changes. If you have access to a 1/8" punch to make the holes for the rivets it really helps cause the grid won't move while your drilling it. I did commercial accustical ceilings for a while about 7 years ago so if you have any other questions i'll try my best to answer them. And to hold the verticle tiles in place they make clips, we called them alligator clips that clip to the T's and have tabs that hold the tiles in place.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

You can also wedge scrap pieces of grid between the flat part of the ceiling and the upright part to hold the tile. Cut a bit of a point on either end to embed it into the tiles. Cut your last piece tight. A "Whitney" punch and rivet tool are definite must-have items, as ponch said. Lots of clamps and string line to level it.
I usually frame and sheetrock drops if at all possible. Framing out of grid is much more time consuming and (in MY opinion) doesn't look as good.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

ponch37300 said:


> . And to hold the verticle tiles in place they make clips, we called them alligator clips that clip to the T's and have tabs that hold the tiles in place.


Oh, so that is what you call those things I here go "ting, ting ting" across the ceiling or onto the floor when I lift tiles up to do some work later:laughing:

I hate those things. I have worked on jobs where they were required on all tiles and the carpenter was putting them on long before we got to do the lights..

Maybe doctors are right about your mind being able to block out bad memories. I forgot all about those.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yeah, you pretty much have to put them on as you go.......especially if you're working piece rate. And even if the ceiling mechanic leaves out the tiles where the lights go, the electrician has to take out another tile to wire up the pigtail. (Or another trade has to access something.) Shouldn't be a problem in the upright portion of a drop though. And they are mostly used in an application where "wind lift" is a problem (outside soffit/foyer of a commercial building).


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