# Pocket door off track



## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

This is other side.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

Well, I don't think that wheel is supposed to be laying on top of the door... I'd say it's time to replace it. Use Johnson hardware and you will likely never have problems again.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

On all of our pocket doors, in order to adjust, you have to pop of the horizontal molding on the underside on top of the door frame. That will give you the best access to remove the door and adjust the hardware.

There is also a latch on the roller hardware that you can release if you want to remove the door, without removing the molding.
Look at a few you tube videos, they will help.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yes they lift up to come out of there.

It does look like it has jumped the track, sometimes the track gets damaged and needs replaced, sometimes the thing gets out of adjustment, and need adjusted.

Hard to say what to do, when I don't have actual eye on the thing.

You might not be strong enough to lift it, but I have known ladies that could give me competition in strength too.

So it lifts up and tilts bottom out to come off the track, and watch your toes.

Most are hollow core, so it should not be too heavy.


ED


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

They aren't too heavy. I'll keep working on it.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

As mentioned, you need to remove the top stop. (Like a 1x2 laying flat) Usually on one side of the door or the other, the top stop will have screws in it so that it is easily removable. If it was nailed on,, you will have to pull the top piece of casing off the door and then remove the top stop. This will give you good access to the top of the door.

Changing the track and the hardware is a big undertaking, because you have to remove both doors, and open up the drywall on one side of the wall to expose the entire length of track on each side. You have to open up the drywall to unscrew the track (to get the old track out) then you put the new track in and screw it in.

Pain in the rear, I know... but that is the nature of pocket doors. The Johnson hardware door hardware is also much easier to adjust than your current ones.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I'm flat broke after xmas so don't want to involve the drywall. This was a dining room off living room but now its my den.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

Guess that means trying to fix it then. You will still want to remove the door by taking off that top stop. Loosen the nut in your first pic. Slip the trolley back onto the track, try to establish why it came out... looks like it's missing a wheel to me. Hopefully you can find parts for it. Good luck!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

de-nagorg said:


> Yes they lift up to come out of there.
> 
> It does look like it has jumped the track, sometimes the track gets damaged and needs replaced, sometimes the thing gets out of adjustment, and need adjusted.
> 
> ...


Ed not meaning to argue or anything but the ones I installed can't come off by lifting up, they have a captive double track. The bypass doors I installed will come off by lifting up though.

The way I would fix that is open the latch that holds the door to the roller hardware on both sets of rollers, then the door will come off. Roll the hardware off the end of the track and replace all the hardware. Replacing the track would not be an option for me unless the track is damaged, which is unlikely.

If you cannot get to the latch to remove the door from the rollers, you will have to remove the trim strip at the top like already stated. JMHO


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Ed not meaning to argue or anything but the ones I installed can't come off by lifting up, they have a captive double track. The bypass doors I installed will come off by lifting up though.
> 
> The way I would fix that is open the latch that holds the door to the roller hardware on both sets of rollers, then the door will come off. Roll the hardware off the end of the track and replace all the hardware. Replacing the track would not be an option for me unless the track is damaged, which is unlikely.
> 
> If you cannot get to the latch to remove the door from the rollers, you will have to remove the trim strip at the top like already stated. JMHO


Jim: upon looking better at the picture, it does appear to have double tracking, and also one wheel appears to be broken off the axle.

So she should try to remove the stop, to get to this , Lifting won't work after all.

My apology for getting on the wrong track. :vs_blush:



ED


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

This covers a lot but it will answer your questions with a visual.

Even if you don't purchase new parts you can at least adjust the existing ones.?

https://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_repair_and_replace_a_pocket_door


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

Good video Ron, but I think the OP could release the latch on the rollers, repair what appears to be the broken or detached hardware and reinstall. What do you think?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Ron, that is a good video and he did show a single track, which I have never seen for a pocket door. He did reinstall a double track, which, IMHO, should have been to start with. Then again this is just MHO, a lot has changed since I was in business.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

As can by seen from the pictures, this particular trolley does not have a latch (like the Johnson hardware ones do) this one has a double nut. Top nut acts as a lock nut, bottom nut adjusts the door height. 

You can see the top nut in the photo. You have to remove the top stop, loosen the top nut on each side, then the hardware (which you can see in the top pic is slotted... because it is off the track... off the double nut... laying on its side... and missing at least one wheel) slides off as you pull the door toward you.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Brings back bad memories. At work, I had to fight a set of solid mahogany doors that were 4' wide x 7' tall that were getting shoved open so hard they would knock the stops off and fall back in the wall. I ended up welding 1/4" metal stops to the tracks. 

These heavy doors come out of the track like in the sketch, and may NOT even apply to the OP's doors. Shove one door all way back then pull the other door closed and the rollers drop out where the block was removed. JMO


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Wow. After all your advice it was simple to get door off. I pushed the good door back into wall. I took off the screw at end of track and slid the door off. No idea why in first photo it looks like a wheel laying sideways other than these wheelie things are made to swivel and it was so loose it was ready to fall off.

Once door was on floor I inspected track an it looks straight and secure to me.

There are 2 wheelie/roller things. They easily slip on/off screws on the door top. One at each end. The only thing I notice is the back roller is tight an the front one that was the problem looks like it spread apart somehow. They're a solid, firm bracket so I don't know how it could have spread out. 

Maybe the years of me wiggling the door was the cause.

I'm thinking of laying it on its side an hammering it tighter. If that doesnt work I might be able to order new ones.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)




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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)




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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

If you use the pocket doors on a regular basis, I would spend the few bucks for some new hardware.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

You mean new rollers? 

I didn't know I could buy them but will look around. Thanks


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

See if one of these two might be a match.

http://www.allaboutdoors.com/s.nl/it.A/id.62142/.f
http://www.allaboutdoors.com/s.nl/it.A/id.61417/.f


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Xsleeper,
Those links are closest I've seen.

When I held my roller up to measure I see a name, "Acme" and a number. 

(I googled Acme and was directed to link you recommendd). Trying to measure my rollers now.

Your bottom link is the same size as my roller. It says Acme replacement for 1000 and my roller is #1001.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

Do a Google search for acme 30-1001 roller. You will get more choices.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

It might be worth it to replace them all while you are at it. And you might want to check the other rollers just to make sure they all have the same number on them... in the off chance that someone replaced that broken roller with a wrong part a long time ago. All 4 roller numbers "should" match.

Also check your brackets for wear. Replace them too if needed.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yay!

:vs_closedeyes::vs_clap::vs_clap::vs_clap::thumbup::clap::clap:


I like to hear about success.

Good job there.


ED


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

There should be a bracket with a slot screwed to the top of the door. And a bolt coming out the bottom of the 4-wheeled carriage. Did the bracket come off the door?


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

The brackets (and adjustable bolt) are both pictured on the door in post #19.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

XSleeper said:


> The brackets (and adjustable bolt) are both pictured on the door in post #19.


I hadn’t made it to page 2 before I posted.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I think I'll use my silicone spray on the track. I just hope when the new rollers arrive thet fit right on the door and I dont have to screw anything in the door. These doors only get used occasionally when I need to hide any projects/mess in that room.


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## Druidia (Oct 9, 2011)

Startingover said:


> View attachment 471434




Far better to replace than to hammer it. 

You’re lucky your rollers are still available. Mine are not (Chicago company that went kaput) so replacing the roller assembly means also replacing the tracks (because I have to buy a completely different brand).


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

There might be a "universal" kit to repair yours.

Sometimes they are available in the BOX stores, or on line.

Can't hurt to look, before tearing out the wall and everything to replace a bad track.


ED


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## Druidia (Oct 9, 2011)

de-nagorg said:


> There might be a "universal" kit to repair yours.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Nope. No universal kit. Searched online and in stores. Even contacted pocket door manufacturers. They have no equivalent size/shape. 

It’s not a bad track. It’s the bracket bolt hole and the bolt. Threads are worn out so the bolt keeps slipping down. But the bolt is, of course, not an ordinary bolt shape so can’t just replace with regular bolt. 

I think I created a thread here last year. Pocket door actually works fine, most of the time. I only have to adjust the bolt 1x or 2x a year unless the oldies are here. For whatever reason, my 90-YO FIL likes shaking/rattling the pocket door (instead of just pulling/pushing), so much that I actually have to adjust the pocket door as frequently as twice per day (instead of 2x per year) when he’s here .


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Guess that I missed your earlier post.

Have you thought of re-threading the hole to accept a different bolt, and there are many different styles of bolts available that might be useful as a replacement.

Don't limit yourself to "regular" ones.

Even a piece of all-thread with double nuts as a head sometimes works better than any special design from a manufacturer.


ED


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## Druidia (Oct 9, 2011)

de-nagorg said:


> Guess that I missed your earlier post.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Sorry, StartingOver, I don’t mean to hijack your thread. 

Ed, I didn’t find a label on my bracket/rollers but this is what they look like (that’s why I guessed that mine are from the now gone Lawrence Brothers):
http://www.allaboutdoors.com/Produc...anger-3-nylon-wheel-1-1-8-Wheel-DISCONTINUED#

The adjusting bolt has a notched wheel at the bottom so it can be turned (with a thin tool) without having to remove the top molding of the door. 

Hmmnnn, I haven’t removed the top mold trim of the door so I’ve only been able to examine the roller by letting it roll off the top track. I think I WILL remove the top door mold trim and try the easiest solution first - see if I can fit a locking nut at the end of the bolt (once I’ve adjusted the bolt so the door is level). 

I saw a couple of forums (other websites) where buildings used the same Lawrence Brothers hardware and never found replacements for their damaged nylon rollers. I’m a bit more fortunate in that my nylon rollers are still in good condition Even after 14+ years.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

No problem. Good luck with your door. Pocket doors are convenient but a pain to repair. 

I'm waiting on my new rollers to arrive.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

New rollers arrived. They seem to fit track perfectly.

Post #19 shows the pegs in the door top. New roller slot is too small for original pegs. The two pegs have a total of 8 screws. I have trouble with screws. I,ll have to predrill 8 holes then put all those screws in. After I go back online an see if there are matching pegs.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

Yeah, that's why in post #25, I suggested getting new posts to match. Keep us posted!


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I know. But I was hoping positive thinking would make them work. Since the doors still laying on the floor I almost broke a toe when I stubbed it on the door.

If I'd known 5 yrs ago when I bought this house how much work I'd be doing I'd have bought a heavy duty powered screwdriver.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Startingover said:


> I know. But I was hoping positive thinking would make them work. Since the doors still laying on the floor I almost broke a toe when I stubbed it on the door.
> 
> If I'd known 5 yrs ago when I bought this house how much work I'd be doing I'd have bought a heavy duty powered screwdriver.


A 12 volt power driver would be MORE than enough power for driving screws.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-12-Volt-Cordless-Lithium-Ion-Drill-Driver-Kit-HJP004/205152814


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Canarywood,
Great. I wondered which screwdriver I should get. I decided to buy one since my daughter can use it also. I always liked the looks of this type when I've seen men use them. Do I still need to predrill a hole first?


What kind of idiot bangs into something not once but twice. Barefoot, rushing, and for second time kicked the door thats on the floor. This time fell, took a strip of skin off my arm, from edge of door but at least the carpet was soft. This time my foot hurt all day. Did what I should have done when I took it down. Moved it to a far corner.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I have one of those but in the 18 volt variety.

A very good choice.

Don't feel too bad about hitting your toe on things, this idiot also hits things often, I'll be hurrying and turn a corner just a bit too soon, and BANG I'll bounce off the corner.

Say a few choice words and continue on, look down and my arm is bleeding, a few more choice words, and a trip to my first aid station, all bandaged up and back to being busy.

Did that today as a fact.

You will like the Ryobi, the 18 volt is a bit heavier, and more powerful, you might have a hard time holding on to it at full torque.

ED


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Startingover said:


> Canarywood,
> Great. I wondered which screwdriver I should get. I decided to buy one since my daughter can use it also. I always liked the looks of this type when I've seen men use them. Do I still need to predrill a hole first?
> 
> 
> What kind of idiot bangs into something not once but twice. Barefoot, rushing, and for second time kicked the door thats on the floor. This time fell, took a strip of skin off my arm, from edge of door but at least the carpet was soft. This time my foot hurt all day. Did what I should have done when I took it down. Moved it to a far corner.



I have this tool for about 3 or 4 years now, and the reason i bought it was because the 18 volt version in a confined space was too heavy, i use this one now more than the 18 volt version as it has PLENTY of power for drilling also.

Take care of those tootsies, you only get one set.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

My projects always take me forever.

One of the new rollers disappeared! This is an average size house, mostly neat and I live alone. So where could it have gone? I was waiting to find it before I ordered the posts. Now I've decided, once the posts arrive, to go ahead and just put one new one on. With the original pr only one was bent so I'll keep the good one.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Startingover said:


> My projects always take me forever.
> 
> One of the new rollers disappeared! This is an average size house, mostly neat and I live alone. So where could it have gone? I was waiting to find it before I ordered the posts. Now I've decided, once the posts arrive, to go ahead and just put one new one on. With the original pr only one was bent so I'll keep the good one.


As soon as you get everything back together, it will be sitting right there where it should be.:vs_mad:


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Murphys Law ?


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Gosh, I'm still working on this door. First didn't have money for drill. Then HD was out. Then I recently bought it ( thanks Canarywood for suggestion). Then it took me a long time to figure out the drill/driver. Instructions could have been better.

I now know what torque means. Plus know what 'impact' means but this doesn't have that word so I guess its a simple drill/driver. My Toro weedeater Has a button outside that warns you how much battery life is remaining. This drill doesn't have that feature. I guess you use it till you can't. But, its easy for me to hold.

Question now is why is there a nut included with my new door brackets? The original bracket didn't have one. It looked exactly same as news ones except for size.

Thanks


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## nagami (Apr 21, 2018)

sub'd to this thread


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## Fleischwolf (May 18, 2018)

Please ignore this comment.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Sorry that I missed the question 6 days ago.

The nut is there for different reasons.

This is probably a "universal kit", which means that it is made for several applications, and a nut is needed for some.

Or it is needed to lock the hanger in one position , so that it won't move up or down after getting adjusted to it's optimum sliding position, and whomever installed yours before omitted it .


ED


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Ed, wish I'd left well enough alone. Took good door off to look at it, now its slightly crooked. They get super heavy trying to hold them up to get back on the track.

I'll let you know if I ever get both hung right.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

They do get heavy. When I am working on those by myself I put a pry bar on top of a 1x. One end under the door, the other end you step on. Lifts the door up just enough so you can position it. If you have tile or wood floors put a towel down first.

Pry bar I have is angled at the end so the door doesn't slip off.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

The prybar works great, but you need great balance, because you will be standing on one foot, while levering the door high enough, and putting the mounting bolts, all while balancing on the one foot.

Be careful.

ED


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## oliver305 (Apr 18, 2021)

I use Kwikset pocket door lock and have no problems with it. The lock's smooth, satin nickel appearance was a welcome feature once installed. It gave the lock a good modern vibe and didn't become a hindrance anywhere I used it. I don't see many scenarios in which I'd be bothered by its presence in my home.


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