# Help with Exposed Aggregate Concrete Patio



## bjbrotine (Dec 21, 2017)

Hi DIY,

I just moved into a house that has a rough exposed aggregate concrete patio (150 square feet). It's awful to walk around on. I'm considering the following DIY remedies, but if anyone has tried to smooth out aggregate (literary I can almost pick out the rocks - it's original from 1971) I'd love advice.

1. Surface Grind it down....go to Home Depot and rent a diamond grinder.
2. Behr Granite Grip - Lay down this thick paint and see if it will fill in the rough exterior.
3. Epoxy Paint - I heard a clear epoxy paint might do the trick and smooth it out.
4. Lay down a carpet because I don't want to pay for someone else to fix it.

Thanks!


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

1. Sounds like an awful lot of work and I don't know whether it would accomplish anything other than lowering the surface.
2. Maybe but it won't last - same for #3.
4. It would work but again, it won't last.

Not cheap or easy but the simple answer is it likely needs to be replaced.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

If the stones are coming loose from the concrete then the concrete must be degrading. The best option might be to bust it out and pour a new slab.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

I agree with the others on this one. Demo and re-pour time. Grinding would be MAJOR work to do and while knowing the poor job the installer did with their cement bonding of the rocks, the grinder will de-rock it and then just get down to a weak substrate anyway = poor top finish. Good Luck. JMO


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,..... Power wash it with a _High pressure_ machine,.... 
'n trowel on a top layer of non-shrink hyd. grout,....

Donno where you are, but ya oughta get 5 or 10 years outa it,....

For a lifetime fix, bust it out, 'n start over,....


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

You could use an Epoxy to self level the existing concrete than while wet broad cast dry sand or colored Quartz when epoxy is set sweep off excess sand / QuartZ


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

I just did a job like that. No matter what you have to chop out what's loose. We laid metal lath down, drilled holes with a hammer drill & a masonry bit & attached the metal lath with concrete screws. Then we used a topping mix over the metal lath. That was a few weeks ago. So far no complaints.

Stadry has another way to do it without the metal lath. Search his posts or wait for him to post here.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Providing the patio is structurally sound, you could do a polymer modified overlay.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Bush Hammer the surface and recoat


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

I think if we knew the OP's location, it would help give a indication of how his climate will affect any overlays life span. Overlays in Florida are going to have more longevity, that ones in Minnesota. JMO


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> I think if we knew the OP's location, it would help give a indication of how his climate will affect any overlays life span. Overlays in Florida are going to have more longevity, that ones in Minnesota. JMO


 Op's question was how to fix his patios deteriorating surface, not how long an overlay would last.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> Op's question was how to fix his patios deteriorating surface, not how long an overlay would last.


Longevity is part of a decent recommendation for repair. An repair that will last 5-10 years might be worth doing. If it looks like crap after 1-2 winters, would you put your money into it, or recommend it to others.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Location would help. Since a repair that might not work in freezing climate might be fine in Florida.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Oso954 said:


> Longevity is part of a decent recommendation for repair. An repair that will last 5-10 years might be worth doing. If it looks like crap after 1-2 winters, would you put your money into it, or recommend it to others.


Polymer overlays have been around for 20 years or more, and the information for longevity is there for anyone willing to look for it, here's an excerpt from the Wisconsin DOT as the full article is too long to post.

Based on information in the literature, survey findings, and results from this study, it is anticipated that the service life of a 2-lift thin polymer overlay would be on the order of 7 to 15 years, if early premature failures do not occur. A service life of 10 years can be assumed for economic analyses.
 If the purpose for the installation of the thin polymer overlay is to protect an uncontaminated deck against corrosion, a more cost effective approach may be to apply a penetrating sealer shortly after construction, and repeating the sealer application periodically thereafter.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

joed said:


> Location would help. Since a repair that might not work in freezing climate might be fine in Florida.


Polymer overlays work in freezing climates, probably last longer in Florida.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*i wanna sell self-level epoxy if you go that way,,, 'sides, epoxies aren't recommended for exterior use,,, so far a bushing tool on a elec chipping gun's the best method,,, you can rent the gun BUT may have tobuy the bushing tool - use a 16 point for best results,,, hyd cement's a BIG IXNAY - wrong mtl,,, polymod'd o'lays last as long in either clime,,, what generally causes shorter life or failure's installers pushing weather envelope,,, eg, 40*f & rising isn't good enuff,,, surf temp's gotta be 45*f + rising air temp*


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*just for ***** & giggles, a gal is 231cu in OR 231sf @ 1", 462sf @ 1/2", & 1,848sf @ 1/8" - all less for what doesn't drain out of the gal cans,,, rolling it on w/3/4" napped roller is probably the most efficient installing method,,, @ $100gal & factoring in missing aggregate, popouts, & divits, you'd be lucky to expect 25st gal coverage

it seems to me o'laying w/polymer-mod'd cement is a far more attractive method,,, just use teh white stuff rather'n the portland color'd stuff,,, you can always mix in sher/wms wtr-based tints to color*


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*more giggles - we just finished an exposed/agg driveway - 50cy's worth - guys didn't get a good application of retarder down so press washing didn't have the desired effect,,, we had to go back & sandblast the thing to satisfy client's bride*


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Yes, one must ALWAYS keep the bride happy.


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