# Tyvek overlap with replacing siding one wall at a time



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Just run the Tyvek a foot long on each end. Wrap around and tack to the old siding until your ready to do the next wall.

Nail a couple of firing strips to it so the staples won’t rip out.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Just run the Tyvek a foot long on each end. Wrap around and tack to the old siding until your ready to do the next wall.
> 
> Nail a couple of firing strips to it so the staples won’t rip out.


Thanks for the reply. Running it a foot long would give me overlap on one wall, but not the other. As I understand it, the wrap on each face is supposed to overlap the adjascent wall by 12", which means you would have a double layer at every corner. Is that not the case? 

I've also been seeing a lot of support for using 30# felt instead of Tyvek. I'm not opposed to doing that... is the installation exactly the same, in terms of overlap, corners, windows, etc?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

30lb. Felt is all I’ll use. I have issues with Tyvek, in wet climates anyway. Probably not a issue in Texas.

But yes, you always want to wrap the corner. I fold a felt corner (inside or out) and install in one piece vertically then paper the wall horizontally. The corner ends up with double felt.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> 30lb. Felt is all I’ll use. I have issues with Tyvek, in wet climates anyway. Probably not a issue in Texas.
> 
> But yes, you always want to wrap the corner. I fold a felt corner (inside or out) and install in one piece vertically then paper the wall horizontally. The corner ends up with double felt.


So you can wrap the corner with something like a 24" wide vertical strip, and then overlap the horizontal rows of felt that run down the wall so that they end right at the corner? If that's correct, then to do one wall at a time, I would first attach half of the vertical strip of felt, then cover the wall with the horizontal rows. When it was time to do the adjacent wall, I would fold the vertical strip over, and then do the horizontal felt down that wall. Let me know if I have any of that wrong. The part I'm unsure about is terminating pieces of felt right at the corner.

I attached quick drawing to see if I'm understanding it correctly.

Also, is it necessary to tape vertical seams of felt like you do with Tyvek?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

You got it.

Except with felt I cut the 3’ wide felt down the middle, then fold the 18” piece in half leaving 9” around the corner, so I get two corners out of one piece. 

But you certainly can go wider.

No tape needed for felt.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

Excellent. Thanks for the help.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Yikes! And don't forget when you remove the T1-11 siding (that is *also your sheathing* to prevent racking and transmit wind, seismic forces) to *install steel diagonal bracing* at every corner and every 25' of wall.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/wb-wbc-twb-rcwb.asp

Be safe, Gary


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

No sheathing ? Are the walls insulated ?
I've found that sheathing helps seal the wall cavities, less air movement
Siding usually isn't replaced for 15-25 years
During that time the Tyvek/felt will be the only thing keeping bugs from the walls
Make sure you do the bracing


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*caulk, too*

There are special caulks used w/ Tyvek, too. Taping and caulking is recommended on Tyv. You can leave Tyvek, I've read, for 6 months. That said, I see buildings year after year w/ Tyvek on them; don't know if the Ty starts to deteriorate or clog up, though. I don't know about caulking felt paper, but it is good stuff for walls and I don't see how vertical caulking at the corners could hurt.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

*GBR in WA* Yikes! And don't forget when you remove the T1-11 siding (that is *also your sheathing* to prevent racking and transmit wind, seismic forces) to *install steel diagonal bracing* at every corner and every 25' of wall.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...c-twb-rcwb.asp

T1-11 is not necessarily "also the sheathing". It is not shown that way in his drawing.



*Scuba_Dave* No sheathing ? Are the walls insulated ?
I've found that sheathing helps seal the wall cavities, less air movement
*Siding usually isn't replaced for 15-25 years*
During that time the Tyvek/felt will be the only thing keeping bugs from the walls
Make sure you do the bracing.

1983 was 27 years ago.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Since I started building houses since '73, I have never installed sheathing under T1-11. Most builders, here at least, used the T1 *because* it also acts as sheathing. Two for the money of one...... The added unnecessary cost would have to pass on to the buyer from the builder, which would undermine the sale. Since it was original, I doubt he has sheathing...... 

Behind brick or under Hardi or cedar lap, yes. Metal bracing with foam board, 1/4" foiled cardboard, let-in 1x4's, diagonal 2x4's, and flat steel strapping are substitutes for sheathing, if allowed by local Inspectors. 

Be safe, Gary


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

t111 is used as a sheathing around here to but only on sheds and some garages and barns,anything with conditioned space is sheathed then the panel is applied,which imo is the right way to use it


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*on mine*

Not knowing any better, we sheathed w/ 5/8" T1-11 in 1980. No problems, and we have frequent (very minor.... knock on wood) earthquakes. Had I known better, I would surely have used steel straps underneath the T. They are cheap, fast, and apparently work, so why not? j


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

I assumed there was sheathing under the T1-11, but I don't know for sure. If there is not, do I use the straps just while the house is exposed, or do I leave them on and install the felt and hardiplank over them? 

As, is it practical to install sheathing if there is none currently, or would that lead to clearance problems with doors and windows?


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*stay*

Straps stay there. If concerned, notch the studs a tweak so they are flush.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

"If there is not, do I use the straps just while the house is exposed, or do I leave them on and install the felt and hardiplank over them?" ------------- Yes, leave them on if no sheathing. 303 siding by APA makes the T1-11 rated as aengineered* structural* siding and sheathing combined in the 5/8" thickness which doesn't need any bracing or sheathing under it. This is the particular brand I have installed with the company's office located here. Hardie plank has no wall shear to speak of. 

Be safe, Gary


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I wouldn’t install Hardi Plank directly to studs. You would need to sheet the walls. 

If there is a gap between the bottom of your siding and the foundation, it’s probably sheeted. You might be able to stick you finger up there and feel it. You could also take off a outlet cover or a porch light and figure it out.

Re-sheeting would add about $40-50 a square, not counting the labor.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

if its your sheathing too you gotta put your drainage plane directly over the studs,that takes some careful detailing to pull off right


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Guess I'm wrong, you can install directly to studs. Id never do it on a home but that's just me.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_siding_hardieplankLapSiding.py


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

i agree Ron because of the water management issues,but structurally [the panels not the house] its no different than nailing it to a rainscreen


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

sorry, dbl post.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Numb, when you say your T1-11 isn’t in the best of shape, what do you mean?

You can certainly install Hardi Plank over the top of T1-11, assuming it’s not completely rotted out.

I’ve done many of these were the bottom few inches or foot was ugly and everything above was fine. You simply replace the rotted areas of the T1-11 with plywood and install the new siding over that (after felt).

I apologize, the original question of this thread was …..? My first response should have been, Why tear all of the T1-11 off?

This would be a good time for a picture.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I also was wrong when I said T1-11 was 5/8"----- it is actually 19/32"...lol. http://www.apawood.org/apacad/images/pdfs/specs/Y310.pdf

Sheathing replacement: http://www.apawood.org/level_b.cfm?content=prd_sid_main

"I’ve done many of these were the bottom few inches or foot was ugly and everything above was fine. You simply replace the rotted areas of the T1-11 with plywood and install the new siding over that (after felt)." ------ I agree.

Be safe, Gary


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Numb, when you say your T1-11 isn’t in the best of shape, what do you mean?
> 
> You can certainly install Hardi Plank over the top of T1-11, assuming it’s not completely rotted out.
> 
> ...


My siding is pretty much how you described... mainly in decent shape, with the bottom few inches starting to rot in a few places, and some squirrel damage to the trim under the soffit in a few places. My plan to replace it isn't purely out of necessity... I'm also looking at it as something to improve the look of the house. I hadn't considered putting hardiplank over the T1-11, but it sounds like that might be a viable option. I'll check to see if there is sheathing under there and try to get some pictures tonight if I get home with any daylight left.

Is installing the hardi over T1-11 an option either way, or would I only go that route if there is no sheathing under the T1-11? I guess since the current trim is installed on top of the T1-11, I could replace that with hardi trim, and there wouldn't be any clearancing issues around doors and windows... is that a correct assumption?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

We’ll wait for the pictures, but it is sounding like your re-siding project will be much easier than you thought.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

Ok, I took some pictures of the siding. Most of it is in decent shape, with a few trouble spots.

Here is what most of it looks like:




















Hot moist air from the dryer vent is killing the trim in this spot:










Squirrel damage:










Minor damage from water runoff. Shouldn't there be flashing here?










This is the worst spot, around the chimney:




























You can see the tar paper through the bigger hole (I'm thinking my dogs assisted with that one). I felt around there, and you can feel the stud, and then gaps on either side... there is definately no sheathing behind the T1-11. 

Here's another shot, looking from ground level up under the trim. You can see the bottom edge of the trim, and theT1-11 underneath. I tried to show that the siding doesn't sit flush with the foundation... I guess the studs are flush, and the T1-11 is attached directly to them?










So obviously, the T1-11 needs to be replaced with plywood in the trouble spots, but what about the rest of it? Good enough to install felt and hardi right over it? And in situations where I would want to replace the T1-11 with fresh plywood, would I replace the entire sheet, or just cut off the bottom foot or two?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

You don’t need to tear that all off, just cut out the rotted areas and replace with plywood. I see some rotted sill plate there too, you will need to replace that and any other rotted framing as well (I'm sure there'll be more).

Remove all siding related trim. You need at least 5/4 trim for your corners, windows, and doors, I prefer 2x.

Be sure to build your corners in one piece before hand and caulk the inside corner seam before installing the corners.

Don’t know if you’re planning on replacing the aluminum windows but now would be the time to do it.

Maybe a new octagon gable vent. That thing you got up there isn’t helping the looks any.

There is quite a few other details you need to get up to speed on but that Hardi link I posted earlier covers most of them.

As tempting as it might be to start on the front, you might consider saving that for last. We want your siding job looking like the pro’s by the time you reach the front door.

Just keep posting as you go along, we’ll deal with all these issues one wall at a time.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> You don’t need to tear that all off, just cut out the rotted areas and replace with plywood. I see some rotted sill plate there too, you will need to replace that and any other rotted framing as well (I'm sure there'll be more).


What's the best way to cut the bottom off T1-11? Do you tear the whole sheet off, cut it, and replace? Maybe score the hell out of it with a utility knife?

Also, with the rotted sill, what's the best way to approach the replacement on a slab? Most of the info I can find has to do with jacking the house up to take pressure off the sill, but I have no basement or crawl space. Do I build a temporary support wall, and remove all the studs that are sitting on the sill? It's the side and back walls of a chimney, so access from the inside is going to be difficult.



kwikfishron said:


> Don’t know if you’re planning on replacing the aluminum windows but now would be the time to do it.


Those are getting replaced as well. I have already put the order in for some nice vinyl replacement windows. Double pane, double strength, super low-e glass should help with the Texas summers.



kwikfishron said:


> As tempting as it might be to start on the front, you might consider saving that for last. We want your siding job looking like the pro’s by the time you reach the front door.


No worries about the front of the house... it's all brick. :thumbsup: I have a detached workshop, though, and I'll probably do the Hardi on that first to practice.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I cut the bottom off of my pool cabana T1-11
I set the skill saw cut depth to the depth of the siding
Then drew a straight line & cut it


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

*What's the best way to cut the bottom off T1-11? Do you tear the whole sheet off, cut it, and replace? Maybe score the hell out of it with a utility knife?*

Snap a chalk line were you know your beond the rot and cut with a Skill Saw. There maybe some areas that removing the whole sheet is he way to go but we'll try to leave as much on as possable. Get a cheap carbide blade or two because you’ll hit nails sooner or later.


*Also, with the rotted sill, what's the best way to approach the replacement on a slab? Most of the info I can find has to do with jacking the house up to take pressure off the sill, but I have no basement or crawl space. Do I build a temporary support wall, and remove all the studs that are sitting on the sill? It's the side and back walls of a chimney, so access from the inside is going to be difficult.*

Can’t say for sure until you have it opened up so we can see the whole picture. I’ve replaced more rot than I care to think about and “jacking up the house” is rare. “Temporary support”, maybe but not always. There are a lot of other forces holding the house together, so just because you slip out 4-5’ of rotted sill doesn’t mean the house will drop 1 ½” on the spot. Once again can’t say utill we see the whole picture.

Like I said, take this one wall at a time, you have different issues on different walls. When you’re ready to start, we’ll deal with wall #1. 

I have a feeling you’ll be more educated on rot than you want to be before this is done.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

Yep, I have that feeling about the rot too. You can see in the pictures how close the grade level is to the top of the slab by the chimney. The house is on a slight hill, and at the back of the house, there is only maybe an inch or two of exposed slab under the siding. The other three sides of the house are fine. When it rains really hard, water starts pooling up at the back of the house, especially around that chimney... that's where the rot is coming from. I need to move some soil around to improve the drainage and get better siding-to-ground clearance, but it's complicated, because there are two concrete patios and a pool to contend with. I could cut through the low ends of the patios and put in linear drains that empty out to the side of the house, but I feel like I have enough work on my plate already. I'm also tearing down an old eave-attached shed-roof patio cover and building a blind-valley gable roof to replace it. It's going to be a busy summer.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

Reviving the thread, I had the opportunity (or misfortune) of tearing into the siding and replacing some of the rotted sill plate this weekend. I cut out about 4 feet of sill plate, and the bottom 12” off a couple studs. The most difficult part of the whole job was trying to get the sill plate out without damaging the drywall that was nailed to it from the inside. I used a reciprocating saw to make the cuts, and slid a metal putty knife between the board and the drywall to protect it. I couldn’t really avoid tearing up the drywall by pulling the nails through it, though. Most everything was hidden by the baseboard trim on the inside, and I was able to patch up the holes from the outside, but I’m sure I’ll have plenty more sill plate to replace, and I won’t always be so lucky. 

Is there a better way to do this? 

Luckily, the portion I needed to replace wasn’t attached to the slab, but a little further over, I could see where it looks like the sill plate was attached with a nail and washer driven down through the plate into the slab. If I have to tear a piece out like that, how do I go about reattaching the new sill plate to the slab? Are there special fasteners that you can drive into the concrete? I had assumed there would be j-bolts that were set in the slab, and that the sill plate would be bolted down with. Guess not.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Replacing rot and not damaging the drywall is always the goal. Tricky it can be, and sometimes impossible.

It’s all about TLC and Sawzall Art.

What did you do about the studs you whacked off?

Where’s the pictures?


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

I didn't take as many pictures as i should have, but here are a few:

New sill plate, stud has been cut away:










New stud, toe-screwed (is that a word?) to the sill and the upper part of the stud:









Insulation:









30# felt (lapped under the existing stuff), z-flashing, siding, trim, ready for paint:









One thing I'm not so sure of, I used regular 2x4 for the sill and the stud, because I have a foot of exposed slab above grade here. I'm finding now that I probably should have used pressure treated wood for the sill plate. You think it's a big enough issue to warrant tearing it apart again?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Treated on the concrete is mandatory. 

I would have also added a sister stud along your spliced stud to hold it all together.

Also, code around here anyway would have you block out at the sheathing seam so both pieces have full perimeter nailing.

Did you change your plan to re-side with Hardi?


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Treated on the concrete is mandatory.
> 
> I would have also added a sister stud along your spliced stud to hold it all together.
> 
> Did you change your plan to re-side with Hardi?


That's what I was afraid of. Is it a big enough problem that it warrants tearing everything back apart and doing it again?

Also, what about the attachment of the sill plate to the slab? It looks like the current plates were nailed to the slab with a ramset. Is there a certain way those have to be removed, or can I just pry them up? Am I risking cracking the slab if I try to shoot new fasteners into the foundation when I put in new pieces of sill plate?

Hardi is still the plan, but has been delayed a bit as other projects and expenses keep coming up.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The reason I asked about your original plan of “fixing one wall at a time and re-siding” was why spend the extra money on T1-11, flashing, caulk, and trim when you could have just covered with plywood and start siding that area.

Should you replace the sill? Yes.

Do you need to do it this weekend? No, but it should be done before you cover it for good.

Those Ramset nails can be tough. It’s usually easier to cut the wood out around it and then split the rest out. Then cut or grind off the nail.

Will new ramset nails blow out the edge of the slab? Maybe, maybe not. Tapcon screws would be a safer way to go.

P.S. You should have a gallon of "Jasco" or the like on hand to treat those “questionable areas” you decide not to replace.


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> The reason I asked about your original plan of “fixing one wall at a time and re-siding” was why spend the extra money on T1-11, flashing, caulk, and trim then you could have just covered with plywood and start siding that area.
> 
> Should you replace the sill? Yes.
> 
> Do you need to do it this weekend? No, but it should be done before you cover it for good.


That being the case, I will probably replace the sill plate and add sister studs when I'm ready to do the Hardi on that wall. I did the flashing and caulking so that I don't have to worry about water getting under there in the event that it takes me longer to get to the Hardi than I anticipate.

The T1-11 that is on there now is 7/16" thick. That seems a little thin to me... is that still an acceptable sheathing to install the hardi over?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Numb said:


> That being the case, I will probably replace the sill plate and add sister studs when I'm ready to do the Hardi on that wall. I did the flashing and caulking so that I don't have to worry about water getting under there in the event that it takes me longer to get to the Hardi than I anticipate.
> 
> The T1-11 that is on there now is 7/16" thick. That seems a little thin to me... is that still an acceptable sheathing to install the hardi over?


Yes it is.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

all things considered you did some nice clean work there:thumbsup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If the ducting termination door is for a dryer, replace it with one that doesn't have the 3 segments to trap lint (it's an exhaust fan door), use a maximum flow, Type "A': http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml
The trim board should be spaced away from the T1-11 to let water past rather than rely on caulking as originally installed. (For others reading that are not replacing their siding.....) 

Be safe, Gary


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

GBR in WA said:


> If the ducting termination door is for a dryer, replace it with one that doesn't have the 3 segments to trap lint (it's an exhaust fan door), use a maximum flow, Type "A': http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml
> The trim board should be spaced away from the T1-11 to let water past rather than rely on caulking as originally installed. (For others reading that are not replacing their siding.....)
> 
> Be safe, Gary


It is for a dryer, but your info confuses me...

According to that link, the louvered vent hoods should be fine. Type "A" in the chart applies to both 4" flapper style and louver style hoods. The lesser flowing type "B" seems to be referring to 2.5" hoods. The rest of my vent setup is a short run of 4" rigid pipe, sealed with metal tape. By all accounts, it should be an ideal setup.

For reference, this is the vent hood I installed:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

As for spacing the trim board away from the siding, that's the first I've heard of that method... what do you use as a spacer between the board and the siding?


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

My windows will be ready in another week or so. They are replacement windows, but the mfr is going to leave the nailing flange on. As I'm planning out the order that things will go in, I keep coming up with new questions...

- The suggested plan is putting 30# felt and hardiplank over the existing T1-11, which is installed over felt (15# I think) and studs. Will having felt on both sides of the T1-11 lead to problems due to the double moisture barrier?

- In regard to sealing the windows up properly, most of the info I have read says to wrap the felt inside the window opening, the nail flange goes over the felt, and is flashed with peel & seal. Is there an acceptable way to install the window first, with the nail flange attached directly to the T1-11, and then do the felt, siding, and trim afterwards, or is that asking for trouble?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Looks like your on the right track.

Hardi is installed over T1-11 all the time with old felt or other products behind it.

We all sure would like to see a “stand back” picture of the area you’ll be starting first, :yes: before you start.


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## Bldg 2 Spec (Jun 22, 2010)

I'd talk to a hardie rep to make sure they are ok with siesmic. Secondly can your foundation withstand the heavy siding (as its not light). My foundation could not support such a thing.. Might be good to look into


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

what is your ''foundation'' made out of?


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

Bldg 2 Spec said:


> I'd talk to a hardie rep to make sure they are ok with siesmic. Secondly can your foundation withstand the heavy siding (as its not light). My foundation could not support such a thing.. Might be good to look into


No seismic concerns here in Central Texas. The house is on a concrete slab with poured footings... I could probably side the house with steel plate and the foundation would be fine (and then the walls would collapse, but that's beside the point :thumbsup.

According to the mfr, Hardiplank weighs 2.3lbs/sq.ft., which they said is comparable to 5/8" sheetrock. Hopefully not many houses are built to within that small of a margin of safety.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

You tell him Numb.:thumbsup:

How are you planning on nailing the siding?

What exposure of siding?

Have you bought the siding yet?


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> You tell him Numb.:thumbsup:
> 
> How are you planning on nailing this?
> 
> ...


Blind nailing, per the Hardi recommendations. I'm planning on using the 8.25" boards with a 7" exposure. I have not bought the siding yet.

I'm still trying to work out the plan for the window installation. I have two schools of thought on this:

1) Install windows and siding on one wall at a time. 30# felt goes over the T1-11 and wraps inside the window openings. Windows are install over the T1-11, and flashed with peel & seal. Trim and siding go on last. Basically this method:










2) Install all the windows first. Window nailing flanges would be installed over the T1-11 and flashed with peel & seal. 30# felt, trim, and siding would go on later. If I go this route, I'm not sure of the details on how to properly seal everything up. Would the felt get flashed to the window with another layer of peel & seal? Is this even a viable option? Clearly, some people do it, as shown here:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The window detail looks great.

I prefer the first plan only because when I’m set up one side of a house with tools, ladders, etc. I want to get everything done in that area I can before moving to the next area. 1 lap around a house is better than 3-4. 

But on the other hand the safest place for your new windows is in their new holes. If you don’t have a guaranteed safe place to store you’re windows then get them in ASAP. 


The reason I asked about the exposure (and I’d like to hear some other input on this) is I’m not a fan of 7” exposure Hardi and this is why. You can go to the middle of any full panel and with little effort get your fingers up under the panel and rip it off the wall if you choose. IMO the laps just aren’t tight enough. Go look at a big wall of 7" exposure Hardi, stand up against the wall and look up. You’ll see what I’m talking about.


I’m always trying to sell my customers on 5 or 6 inch exposure. The 6” is tighter than the 7 but only the 5” is “tight” the way I like it.

Just something to think about.


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## TrafficCopSmith (Dec 23, 2009)

*try zip*



Numb said:


> I assumed there was sheathing under the T1-11, but I don't know for sure. If there is not, do I use the straps just while the house is exposed, or do I leave them on and install the felt and hardiplank over them?
> 
> As, is it practical to install sheathing if there is none currently, or would that lead to clearance problems with doors and windows?


Try out zip system sheathing, it is waterproof and durable which will be good for your time issue


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

actually that zip wall is pretty nice stuff:thumbsup:


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## Bldg 2 Spec (Jun 22, 2010)

Window flashings are easy to do. Just make sure that the blueskin or equal product is on the sheathing and rough opening. Run the felt over the flashing and seal with tuct or a membrane. I'd take the sill detail and and do the same at the head but make the membranes wider/longer @ the corner to avoid the critical corners being missed. Place a horizontal membrane over the flashing @ the head & run felt over this. Place the side membranes in. There are plenty of manf. videos to show you this. You can also use a flex wrap (tyvek) product to avoid the corner pitfalls as well. Products like Blueskin are a premium product and should be adhered to wood. Felt under Blueskin is just asking for trouble as it will lift in the wind or worse let water into your window.

I've detailed a lot of Hardie installations. We tend to make the trim proud of the siding. Generally we do a double frieze and a wide skirt board which completes the look. It looks really nice. 

The perforated Hardie soffit however doesn't give a lot of ventilation so we just used panels and used soffit vent from air vent inc (SV202). 

For canopy's (covered porch) we tend to take the panels lay them in and then take the trim and overlay them ontop to create a board and batten feel.

One thing you have to understand about this product is that it should always butt into trim. These joints (trim/siding) should also be caulked (See mfgr. req.)

Any horizontal trim member that is exposed to the elements on the top side should be flashed or chamfered(to shed water). 

It is always wise if not code to have an air space behind the siding (just use exterior grade vertical strapping). 


Just a thought


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## Numb (Jun 11, 2010)

TrafficCopSmith said:


> Try out zip system sheathing, it is waterproof and durable which will be good for your time issue


That stuff does look pretty good, but for me, it would only make sense if I was planning on tearing off the T1-11, which doesn't seem necessary given what people have said. 

It's also pricey. I checked with a local supplier, and the zip panels and tape work out to around 2x the cost of OSB and 30# felt.


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