# Attaching fence post to house?



## KHouse75 (May 14, 2008)

Home centers sell longer stainless screws.

You can also drill new holes in the bracket if you're concerned about them being too close.

It looks to me like you'll have enough space on the edges. You can also angle the screws in some. Make sure you drill pilot holes first as to keep the wood from splitting.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Galvanized like this would be better, on one side of the corner you have the depth of a stud to work with 4 or 6 inches from the corner and the other way you have the thickness 2"


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

KHouse75 said:


> Home centers sell longer stainless screws.
> 
> You can also drill new holes in the bracket if you're concerned about them being too close.
> 
> It looks to me like you'll have enough space on the edges. You can also angle the screws in some. Make sure you drill pilot holes first as to keep the wood from splitting.





Nealtw said:


> Galvanized like this would be better, on one side of the corner you have the depth of a stud to work with 4 or 6 inches from the corner and the other way you have the thickness 2"


Thanks!
What size screws would you use, on 4x4 and house?
FWIW: I'm using tapcons on the house.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How thick is the stucco, how thick is the sheeting plus 3/4" from the corner puts you in the center of the stud if you just get the narrow edge of the stud to screw to.
I would predrill the stucco with a concrete bit, they would let you know when you hit wood, Then fill the hole with silicone and drive a 3" screw. Stainless or galvanized as fat as will go easily thru the hole in the plate.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Myself, I would not use those.

I would dig a posthole at the location, and install the post in the ground.

I don't like poking holes in my home envelope, this allows water, cold air, and bugs to enter my living space and damage my abode.

What type of ground point do you have?


ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> How thick is the stucco, how thick is the sheeting plus 3/4" from the corner puts you in the center of the stud if you just get the narrow edge of the stud to screw to.
> I would predrill the stucco with a concrete bit, they would let you know when you hit wood, Then fill the hole with silicone and drive a 3" screw. Stainless or galvanized as fat as will go easily thru the hole in the plate.



 Thanks! 
Stucco is 3/4" - 1 1/4" but I don't believe there's any wood sheeting and/or studs just concrete block and stucco. :wink2: 
Plan is to use tapcons, on house, so sounds like at least 3".:vs_cool: 
What size screws, to attach corner brace to 4x4?


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> Myself, I would not use those.
> 
> I would dig a posthole at the location, and install the post in the ground.
> 
> ...


Thanks!
I don't like poking holes in my home envelope, either but I have to.:sad: That said, I am also digging a posthole, at the location, and installing the post in the ground BUT about 12-16" deep, I hit the foundation of the house, so the post will just sit on top of it. Local code calls for, at least 24" deep footer, so inspector told me I have to attach it to house. Not sure what you mean by "ground point"...?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> Stucco is 3/4" - 1 1/4" but I don't believe there's any wood sheeting and/or studs just concrete block and stucco. :wink2:
> Plan is to use tapcons, on house, so sounds like at least 3".:vs_cool:
> What size screws, to attach corner brace to 4x4?


I would use 3 inch deck screws for the post.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> I would use 3 inch deck screws for the post.


 Very cool, thanks!


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

I would set the corner of the post even with the corner of the house.

Drill three holes through the post (top, center and bottom.)
Set post in the hole.

Drilling through the holes in the post, drill three holes in the cement block.
Install lead anchor's in the holes in the cement block.

Bolt post to the cement block using short pieces of 1/2 or 3/4" EMT as spacers between the post and the cement block.

Pour concrete in post hole. 

Be much more secure and look lots better.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Galvanized like this would be better, on one side of the corner you have the depth of a stud to work with 4 or 6 inches from the corner and the other way you have the thickness 2"


BTW, Can't find anything like this online and/or at big boxes. Where can I get this or something like it?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I also like @hkstroud bolt idea. 
Home Depot is a dealer so if they don't have it they can get it.
This would work too, They come in different sizes.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...uge-Galvanized-Medium-L-Angle-ML24Z/202071147


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> I don't like poking holes in my home envelope, either but I have to.:sad: That said, I am also digging a posthole, at the location, and installing the post in the ground BUT about 12-16" deep, I hit the foundation of the house, so the post will just sit on top of it. Local code calls for, at least 24" deep footer, so inspector told me I have to attach it to house. Not sure what you mean by "ground point"...?


By ground point, I meant " what do you have as the place where the post meets the ground.

Dirt, concrete, asphalt, other.

Answered when you said that you dug.

Now about digging.

Move over toward the opposite end of the proposed fence, a couple of feet and try again, if you can dig deep enough, install the post there, and extend the 2X cross pieces toward the house, and hang your pickets off them, still never piercing the envelope, and preserving the stucco unharmed. 

Only you will see the inside, and see the unconventional way that it is built.


ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

hkstroud said:


> I would set the corner of the post even with the corner of the house.
> 
> Drill three holes through the post (top, center and bottom.)
> Set post in the hole.
> ...


Thanks!
Sounds interesting...
Not sure, I can fit spacers, between the post and the cement block because, I can only move post to the left, to stay in line with other posts, so, I'll be pretty much up against the house. That said, what type and size lead anchor and bolts, would you use?


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Probably should use 3/8 to 1/2" bolts. Don't need much. All you really want to do is stabilize the top of the post. 

You only need the spacers if the post doesn't fit flat against the house and it probably won't. Only need to be about 1" long. I think I would use them just to keep the contact between the surface of the house and the surface of the post at a minimum. Less chance of moisture problems. Could even use 3//4"PVC pipe couplings.

You could use lead anchors and lag bolts or you could use a drop in anchor and 3/8" threaded rod cut to length.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> I would use 3 inch deck screws for the post.


As for size of deck screws, here's are the wood I'm using:
5/8" x 5-1/2" x 6" Pickets
2" x 4" x 8 ' Rails
4" x 4" x 8 ' Posts

What size deck screws would you use, to attach...
1) Rails to Posts
2) Pickets to Rails


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

------------


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> As for size of deck screws, here's are the wood I'm using:
> 5/8" x 5-1/2" x 6" Pickets
> 2" x 4" x 8 ' Rails
> 4" x 4" x 8 ' Posts
> ...


1 5/8" and 3"


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> 1 5/8" and 3"


Thanks!
Hmm? 
I’ve got 2” & 3 1/2"...
Would you use these or just too long?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> Hmm?
> I’ve got 2” & 3 1/2"...
> Would you use these or just too long?


 That should work.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> That should work.


Great, thanks!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Galvanized like this would be better, on one side of the corner you have the depth of a stud to work with 4 or 6 inches from the corner and the other way you have the thickness 2"


Thanks!
I went ahead and got three of these, which are also galvanized, for which I need 9 screws. 

I’ve got 1 blue Tapcon 1/4” x 2 3/4” and HD sells them in 8-packs, which give me the 9, I need...but they also have the 8-packs in non-blue stainless for 2x price AND I’d be missing 1. 

Which Tapcons, blue or non-blue stainless?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> I went ahead and got three of these, which are also galvanized, for which I need 9 screws.
> 
> I’ve got 1 blue Tapcon 1/4” x 2 3/4” and HD sells them in 8-packs, which give me the 9, I need...but they also have the 8-packs in non-blue stainless for 2x price AND I’d be missing 1.
> ...


 Either will do.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> a1481155 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks!
> ...


Which would you use, in my situation?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Which would you use, in my situation?


When you just need a few stainless is not cost prohibitive. I would go with those.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> When you just need a few stainless is not cost prohibitive. I would go with those.


Thanks!
First time, I had seen stainless tapcons for concrete. Think I may go with them but how concerned would you be about missing one from one brace?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> First time, I had seen stainless tapcons for concrete. Think I may go with them but how concerned would you be about missing one from one brace?


 I would worry about that. If they come loose you would need a better connection not more connectors.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> I would worry about that. If they come loose you would need a better connection not more connectors.


 Thanks!
Hmm? "Quantity" wise, I've got 1 blue Tapcon concrete screw 1/4” x 2 3/4” and HD sells them in 8-packs, which would give me the 9, that I need, for the 3 braces but with the non-blue stainless 8-packs, I’d still be missing one.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> Hmm? "Quantity" wise, I've got 1 blue Tapcon concrete screw 1/4” x 2 3/4” and HD sells them in 8-packs, which would give me the 9, that I need, for the 3 braces but with the non-blue stainless 8-packs, I’d still be missing one.


 Sorry, I meant to say I would NOT worry about missing one.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Sorry, I meant to say I would NOT worry about missing one.


 Thanks!
To be clear, I have additional 3/4" stucco, from re-finishing, on top of what I'm assuming is 3/4" of original stucco finish on CBC, so I was looking for 2 1/2" Tapcons, to get me 1' past stucco but they only seem to come in 2 1/4" & 2 3/4"...What length would you use?

Also, I'm planning to attach to garage, before adding concrete to base. That said, would you attach brace to post first or attach brace to garage, first?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would attach them first so the post stays put when you do the concrete.
The main issue with the screw will be to long and the thread go to deep to do any good where the screw just turns freely. You said you had one, you could try that one first and then judge the correct length from that one.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> I would attach them first so the post stays put when you do the concrete.
> The main issue with the screw will be to long and the thread go to deep to do any good where the screw just turns freely. You said you had one, you could try that one first and then judge the correct length from that one.


 Thanks!
I'll eye it, first with the one 2 3/4" that I have. 
Would you attach the corner braces to the 4x4, first OR attach the corner braces, to the garage, first?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> I'll eye it, first with the one 2 3/4" that I have.
> Would you attach the corner braces to the 4x4, first OR attach the corner braces, to the garage, first?


 I don't think it makes much difference.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> I don't think it makes much difference.


OK, thanks!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Attach the braces to the garage first.

This gives you the option to adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular.

For installing the fencing perpendicular also.


ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> Attach the braces to the garage first.
> 
> This gives you the option to adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular.
> 
> ...


 Thanks!
Hmm? Yeah, a buddy of mine and I were going back and forth on this, last night and he was saying attach the braces to the post first, so I can adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular and go after my target...The garage. As @Nealtw said, it may not make much difference.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> Hmm? Yeah, a buddy of mine and I were going back and forth on this, last night and he was saying attach the braces to the post first, so I can adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular and go after my target...The garage. As @Nealtw said, it may not make much difference.


Ah yes. The old 6 of one, half dozen of the other scenario.


ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> Ah yes. The old 6 of one, half dozen of the other scenario.
> 
> 
> ED


 That said, the more I think about it, the I more I think your way, is the right way...Attach AND tighten the braces to the garage first.

The other way, if I attach the braces to the post, first and have to adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular, the braces, for the garage, COULD end up not tightened flush to the garage, leaving a gap between brace & wall, if that makes sense...?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

a1481155 said:


> That said, the more I think about it, the I more I think your way, is the right way...Attach AND tighten the braces to the garage first.
> 
> The other way, if I attach the braces to the post, first and have to adjust the post a bit, to get it perpendicular, the braces, for the garage, COULD end up not tightened flush to the garage, leaving a gap between brace & wall, if that makes sense...?


Crystal clear perfect sense to me.

ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> Crystal clear perfect sense to me.
> 
> ED


 Cool! :vs_cool:
FWIW: I've decided to go with the pricier 1/4” x 2 3/4” stainless 8-pack of Tapcons.  Mainly, because they'll be visible and I like the look as well as the "stainless" ability. I'll be missing one but I'll use the spare blue tapcon I have, to make up for it...I'll put it in the bottom hole, of the bottom brace.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Moving forward, this will be a 6' high 3-rail fence (shadow box or board on board). My plan is to install the rails 6" up from the bottom, 6" down from the top, then split the difference, for the middle rail. 

However, I'm thinking I should NOT attach the braces, to the posts, at the same point, where the rails are attached to the post because screws will criss-cross one another. That said, I'm considering off-setting each brace just above each rail...Thoughts?

Also, for a 6' high fence, would you make the posts exactly 6'? I think I've seen some shorter and some taller...Hmm?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yes each fastener should have it's own personal space.

The posts should be a little shorter than 6', that way they do not show, behind the boards, covering them.


ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> Yes each fastener should have it's own personal space.
> 
> The posts should be a little shorter than 6', that way they do not show, behind the boards, covering them.
> 
> ED


Thanks!
Personal space is good. 

As for the post height, I'll have to think about this. I've seen them both ways...Taller than pickets, typically, with decorative caps...As well as shorter... Hmm?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Instead of caps, you could put solar lights on each post, that would look great, but then some vandal would come along and knock them off.



ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> Instead of caps, you could put solar lights on each post, that would look great, but then some vandal would come along and knock them off.
> 
> ED


 Thanks!
No need to invite vandals. :wink2:
That said, are the posts that are taller than pickets, typically adding any structural benefit or just esthetics i.e. caps, lights, etc...?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> No need to invite vandals. :wink2:
> That said, are the posts that are taller than pickets, typically adding any structural benefit or just esthetics i.e. caps, lights, etc...?


 With a picket fence you can cut the post and have the 2x4 on top if you want. With a panel fence we try to cut the post just above the top 2x4 so the cap will deflect the water away from the end of that 2x4.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> With a picket fence you can cut the post and have the 2x4 on top if you want. With a panel fence we try to cut the post just above the top 2x4 so the cap will deflect the water away from the end of that 2x4.


 Thanks!
I'm reading "picket fence vs privacy fence" with the latter built using panels. 

To confirm, so, on a panel built privacy fence, you try to cut the post somewhere between, where they did, on the 2 sample pics, I posted AND still use post caps, although posts are not taller than pickets?

FWIW, this will be component built i.e. one picket and rail, at a time, as opposed to using panels.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> I'm reading "picket fence vs privacy fence" with the latter built using panels.
> 
> To confirm, so, on a panel built privacy fence, you try to cut the post somewhere between, where they did, on the 2 sample pics, I posted AND still use post caps, although posts are not taller than pickets?
> ...


this the common fence here we just order up the pre made panels, they cost less than the material in them.
https://www.actnowny.org/6ft-x-4ft-...ces-design-throughout-6ft-x-4ft-fence-panels/
They come in a multitude of styles every yard except the depot has quality.


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

you are in South Florida same as I, so most cities you will need to have the finished side facing your neighbor with you looking at the post side.


Usually we try to make the pickets and post flushed. Set the end posts and string in between, set all intermediate posts, and we set the pickets same height so all is flushed. Note that down here the post height dictates the post separation. If your post is 6' tall, then your posts need to be less than or equal to 4' apart with the hurricane code. If you make it 6.5' tall, the inspector may dictate closer separation! Buy the 8' posts, dig 24" (or slightly more with some gravel at bottom), then set it. Pay attention to the slope and dips in between. One time I did a 5' tall fence which called for a 5' max separation, but the slope is such that two posts (out of 25) measured 5.5' above ground. The inspector told me the longer posts "dictates" so it's a 5.5' post, and since 5.5' rounds to 6, he is classifying mine as a 6' fence and all the posts need to be 4' apart instead of 5'. Not a joke.



Why do you need a 4X4 post right up against the house corner that way? Is it because there is to be a wood gate right there and that post will serve as the hinge side of the gate?


If it is not a gate, then why not just dig a hole as close as you can without interfering with the foundation. Stop your fence right there for the permit and inspector. It may be 1' or 18" off or whatever. After you get the final signed off, you can attach a piece of PT 2X4 on the other side of that corner with regular Tapcon recessed into the lumber, then "finish" the last two pieces of panels. No ugly metal brackets to deal with. I would consider the last bit of that decorative finishing and not part of the "fence".


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> this the common fence here we just order up the pre made panels, they cost less than the material in them.
> https://www.actnowny.org/6ft-x-4ft-...ces-design-throughout-6ft-x-4ft-fence-panels/
> They come in a multitude of styles every yard except the depot has quality.


 Thanks!
Fancy, shmancy! :thumbup1:


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

a1481155 said:


> Thanks!
> Fancy, shmancy! :thumbup1:


 I see by @miamicuse post that you have much different codes than we do.
Our codes just deal with location and height after that it a free for all.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> you are in South Florida same as I, so most cities you will need to have the finished side facing your neighbor with you looking at the post side.
> 
> 
> Usually we try to make the pickets and post flushed. Set the end posts and string in between, set all intermediate posts, and we set the pickets same height so all is flushed. Note that down here the post height dictates the post separation. If your post is 6' tall, then your posts need to be less than or equal to 4' apart with the hurricane code. If you make it 6.5' tall, the inspector may dictate closer separation! Buy the 8' posts, dig 24" (or slightly more with some gravel at bottom), then set it. Pay attention to the slope and dips in between. One time I did a 5' tall fence which called for a 5' max separation, but the slope is such that two posts (out of 25) measured 5.5' above ground. The inspector told me the longer posts "dictates" so it's a 5.5' post, and since 5.5' rounds to 6, he is classifying mine as a 6' fence and all the posts need to be 4' apart instead of 5'. Not a joke.
> ...


 Thanks and Hey, neighbor! 

Yeah, getting familiar with HVHZ code, since having roof put on the house but didn't know the post height dictates the post separation...Good to know. :wink2: Could almost be done with posts, if in next county to north, where 6' fence posts need to be less than or equal to 8' apart. 

Hmm? I've seen pickets flush with rails but don't know, if I've seen pickets and posts flush, at top. 

I need a 4X4 post right up against the house corner that way because that's what inspector told me he would allow. It's not the gate post but rather between gate latch post and garage. FWIW: see pic for how it used to look. 

BTW, When you say "we", are a fencing or other type of contractor, in Fort Lauderdale?


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

When I said "we" I meant the wood fences I have seen built in the area. I had fences replaced at three properties after last year Irma did her damages.

Myself, or the contractors would set posts at the ends, then string the two. Intermediate posts would be set flushed with string. The three horizontal rails are placed in accordance with code. There is a page on wood fence, rail heights and what type and size of screws/nails to use. When we set the individual pickets we also set them flushed with the string.

At the corner would your inspector allow an L shaped lumber? Put a piece of 2x4 on the other side of that corner, attach with Tapcon. Then get a piece of 2x6 where you can Tapcon to the block wall on one side and screwed to the side of the 2x4 on the edge. IMHO would look better than the brackets.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> When I said "we" I meant the wood fences I have seen built in the area. I had fences replaced at three properties after last year Irma did her damages.
> 
> Myself, or the contractors would set posts at the ends, then string the two. Intermediate posts would be set flushed with string. The three horizontal rails are placed in accordance with code. There is a page on wood fence, rail heights and what type and size of screws/nails to use. When we set the individual pickets we also set them flushed with the string.
> 
> At the corner would your inspector allow an L shaped lumber? Put a piece of 2x4 on the other side of that corner, attach with Tapcon. Then get a piece of 2x6 where you can Tapcon to the block wall on one side and screwed to the side of the 2x4 on the edge. IMHO would look better than the brackets.


 Ah, thanks!
Hopefully, this hurricane season is less active. 

Happen to have a link, to the page on wood fence, where rail heights and what type and size of screws/nails to use?

So, no end post or braces but instead, L shaped lumber...Interesting! How is fence attached to the L shaped lumber?


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

a1481155 said:


> Ah, thanks!
> Hopefully, this hurricane season is less active.
> 
> Happen to have a link, to the page on wood fence, where rail heights and what type and size of screws/nails to use?



Here is the code for wood fence City of Fort Lauderdale. You will find similar pages from different cities in south Florida but they are all from FBC.


http://www.fortlauderdale.gov/home/showdocument?id=1668


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

a1481155 said:


> So, no end post or braces but instead, L shaped lumber...Interesting! How is fence attached to the L shaped lumber?



There are many variations that may work. If I am attaching the post to the building then I am not going to bother with digging and setting concrete.


Here is a sketch of some variations. The left most diagram is what you are trying to do.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> Here is the code for wood fence City of Fort Lauderdale. You will find similar pages from different cities in south Florida but they are all from FBC.
> 
> 
> http://www.fortlauderdale.gov/home/showdocument?id=1668


 Great, thanks! 
That's very helpful...
I only had the first page.:vs_cool:


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> There are many variations that may work. If I am attaching the post to the building then I am not going to bother with digging and setting concrete.
> 
> Here is a sketch of some variations. The left most diagram is what you are trying to do.


Great, thanks! 
That's also very helpful....:vs_cool::vs_cool:
If I'm seeing these correctly, this shows both posts and rails, where rails are finished side of fence. It looks like you ARE using end posts, on the left & middle but it looks smaller than an end post, on right, where it looks like, you also switched to toenailing rail to post. But, where's the L shaped lumber? Love to see some pics, if it's not too much trouble...

Inspector told me, to attach post to house because I can't dig down 2' there, to set it in concrete. I'm going to ask, if I do attach post to house, then can I NOT use concrete, like you. That said, if you're attaching the post to the house, how are you doing so?

FWIW, what I'm trying to do is more like this left most diagram, with the red line being rails and finished side of fence facing neighbors with me looking at the post side. 

I appreciate your thoughts!


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

Every city code and inspector "leanings" are different.


If it were my fence, I would avoid setting a permanent ground post at the corner of the house. First of all, if you have to run underground supply lines, electrical conduits, whatever around that corner, that post and the big chunk of concrete will always be in the way. Second, it's pressure treated lumber, so in 8, 10 years, being down here in South Florida, it's going to rot out and you have to pull that concrete out to reset. To me, I either attach it to the building wall and not set in the ground, or I set it in the ground further away from the building, I won't do both.


Depending on your inspector, you may talk to him and get some feedback.


If I were in your case, I would submit the plans to the city with the fence stopping short of the building. For example, if I can dig down 24" at a distance 18" from the building then that's where my fence will terminate. There is no code that says the fence must be totally closed off. I would submit the plans to the city looking like this.












and leave the finishing details off. Most of the inspectors wouldn't fuss over this and know you will "finish" off the gap later and consider that more a decorative finish and not so much structural. But if you end the fence right there at the corner then they will make it a structural component of the fence.


As to the L shaped lumber I mentioned you can do something like this also. There may be a slight offset but not really appreciable or objectionable.













You would attach those 2Xs to the wall with Tapcon screws. You can predrill and enlarge the drill hole with a spade bit so the screw heads are all recessed.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> Every city code and inspector "leanings" are different.
> 
> 
> If it were my fence, I would avoid setting a permanent ground post at the corner of the house. First of all, if you have to run underground supply lines, electrical conduits, whatever around that corner, that post and the big chunk of concrete will always be in the way. Second, it's pressure treated lumber, so in 8, 10 years, being down here in South Florida, it's going to rot out and you have to pull that concrete out to reset. To me, I either attach it to the building wall and not set in the ground, or I set it in the ground further away from the building, I won't do both.
> ...


Thanks! 
I owe a beer, already, neighbor! 

OK, Here’s what I have, 43” oc from building down driveway to gate latch post; HOWEVER, as you mentioned, in between @ 10”-12” from building (top end of, where fresh dirt looks dig up) down driveway, I have cast iron pipe running perpendicular to & under driveway, and past lawn sprinkler at 21”, towards concrete walkway, which is 32” from driveway. 

I’d prefer not to have post there, so if I can get your L-shaped wood corner approved, I agree, that WOULD look better, than braces and no digging up post, in 10 years but not sure about the offset.

I appreciate your thoughts!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You will need to either use some type of membrane between the wood and the stucco, or you are creating a potential place for water to collect and decay, both the wood and the stucco.

Maybe use some P V C couplers, sawn in half so that you have two, short pipes to act as spacers between the stucco, and the wood.

This should leave plenty of bite to securely hold the "L", shape to the wall, so that it can support the fence.

Use longer lag bolts to secure the "L" to the corner, with the spacers and it should hold well.

And stagger the spacers 6 inches apart, from side to side, of the corner, no use in both bolts trying to use the same space in the corner post of the building.

It's always a pleasure helping to re-engineer something to improve a poor design, some people don't think ahead, when building things and have to make poor choices later to band-aid their project.

I have practiced the motto " Do it right the first time." for a long time, because I hate to do something over due to failure of a band-aid.

I hope that your inspector agrees with your final design, and lets you be.



ED


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> You will need to either use some type of membrane between the wood and the stucco, or you are creating a potential place for water to collect and decay, both the wood and the stucco.
> 
> Maybe use some P V C couplers, sawn in half so that you have two, short pipes to act as spacers between the stucco, and the wood.
> 
> ...


 Thanks!
Yeah, in considering the L shaped design, I was wondering about potential for moisture issues. 

With the braces, they'd be on my side, and like posts & rails, not in neighbor's view so, the looks are less of a consideration, to me. Either way, I think I can get approved without use of concrete, on base...

We shall see.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> If I were in your case, I would submit the plans to the city with the fence stopping short of the building. For example, if I can dig down 24" at a distance 18" from the building then that's where my fence will terminate. There is no code that says the fence must be totally closed off. I would submit the plans to the city looking...


Hey There,
Took a while to hear back from inspector, go figure...

I was surprised by his reply, when I told him, 43" oc from last post (gate latch post) to house and asked him if I could split the distance and place a post, at 21 1/2", in concrete to code, then cantilever i.e. leave unsupported 21 1/2", towards house...

Inspector said, “with 43" oc from last post, I didn't even have to add another post, which code calls for every 48" and he would allow all 43" to be cantilevered”.

Hmm? Didn't see THAT coming...But, sounds good, to me, no digging and concrete to mix. That said, 43" seems too far, to cantilever, in a High VelocIty Hurricane Zone aka HVHZ. 

Where did you get 18” from, if no code? I mean, is there some kind of “cantilever/wind load” rule of thumb and/or math?


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