# Concrete path around house separation



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That walk way is causing splash back on the wall every time it rains.


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

Joe, the walkway is only 18" wide. My eave is over three feet extended beyond the wall with a gutter around. I don't see how rain can splash on the walkway unless it's driving rain.


----------



## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

does the walkway get wet when it rains?


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

GBrackins said:


> does the walkway get wet when it rains?


Not usually. Most times when it rains I walk on it after stepping on dirt and leave muddy footprint on the walkway. Rain doesn't wash off the prints for weeks and I had to hose them off.

But in a storm, yes the walkway, walls, windows all get wet.


----------



## Squito (Jan 23, 2013)

I am in Chicago and having a similar problem. Any ideals on repairing this?


----------



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Squito said:


> I am in Chicago and having a similar problem. Any ideals on repairing this?



Ayuh,... Got a picture of yer's,..??


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

from your pics, w/w is not part of the home's slab otherwise the space 'tween w/w & wall would be very jagged - its fairly straight,,, run a 4" diamond blade on a small grinder thru the area then wirebrush it,,, seal the space w/100% silicone & 'tool' it to promote good adhesion,,, we seal conc hgwy jnts w/it & its good for more than 7yrs.

irc


----------



## Squito (Jan 23, 2013)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,... Got a picture of yer's,..??


no pictures. I am not sure this was the correct repair. But I used some Great stuff, putting tube deep into crack, and filled from bottom up. I plan on using wet/dry plastic cement over it. good? bad? wacked? whatcha think?


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

i sometimes find advising on the correct method & materials to be greatly appreciated,,, this isn't 1 of those times :furious: that 'stuff' isn't uv-resistant NOR designed for exterior use despite what the apron/vest wearer said :no:

just my thought, tho

irc


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Actually the great stuff might not be that as as it does fill and expand. The OP is going to fill in the remainder w/the wet-dry plastic cement which will protect the great stuff from the uv. Definately NOT the best repair....but workable at least in the short term. Ron


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

ront02769 said:


> Actually the great stuff might not be that as as it does fill and expand. The OP is going to fill in the remainder w/the wet-dry plastic cement which will protect the great stuff from the uv. Definately NOT the best repair....but workable at least in the short term. Ron


There must have been some confusion.

I am the "OP" who started this thread to inquire, I am located in Miami and the pictures I posted are of my property with a concrete walkway around the entire perimeter settling.

Squito, from Chicago asked the same question about his house, and he's the one planning to use GREAT STUFF to fill the void. I imagine GREAT STUFF would act like an uneven backer rod, so to speak.

I am not sure of what approach I would take. I had the painters out and they pressure washed the house, and will come back to prime and paint once I addressed this particular issue.

It has been raining every day now in Miami and it's hard to find a window of dry weather to go outside to fix this. Yesterday I did put my 4.5" grinder with a masonry wheel and tried a 15' stretch. It kicked up a concrete dust storm so thick I can't see what I was cutting.


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

It seems the settlement of the walkway had caused the joint to widen, but more than that the crack or joint is "uneven" in different spots.

I believe at one point, probably after the stamped concrete walkway was poured, the previous owner had done some stucco patching work along the bottom perimeter. I can see the stucco at the bottom edge is slightly thicker, and my guess is they floated a coat of stucco along the bottom edge to create a seamless look, sort of like this.










Over time, the walkway separates from the wall due to settlement, ground movement etc...










But it didn't do that, instead, the crack formed wherever it likes. Sometimes it cracked on the wall, sometimes it cracked along the bottom edge, sometimes part of the wall and original stucco broke away, I ran a grinder through part of it, but it wasn't that effective, so I manually with a chisel, tried to chisel as much "dangling lips" away. Basically the bottom edge looks pretty ugly and I am not sure what I could do. The gap is also fairly wide 1/2"+ and it's deep so I am not sure any caulk will fill that in unless I buy 50 tubes or so.


----------



## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

"The gap is also fairly wide 1/2"+ and it's deep so I am not sure any [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]caulk[/COLOR][/COLOR] will fill that in unless I buy 50 tubes or so."






You need to fill the bulk of the void with backer rod before using the caulk.


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

Canarywood1 said:


> You need to fill the bulk of the void with backer rod before using the caulk.


For the areas where the gap is less, do I still fill it with backer rods - in other words, jam it in however I can with a putty knife, or do I just fill it with silicon or polyurethane caulk?

By the way I had three pros to come out to take a look and give me a quote.

One told me the correct solution is to apply another layer of concrete plaster over the whole thing, thick enough to cover the crack totally and fill it.

Another told me the solution is to use a product called VIN-LOX which is an elastomeric flexible plaster and patch a layer of that on the lower 24" along the perimeter as well as filling the gap.

A third one told me I should use lead flashing like they do roofing, and attach the "L" flashing one side to the wall one side to the walkway, and stucco over both.

I don't think the flashing would work. Nor would any rigid joint filler as that joint will continue to move, interesting everyone has a different solution however.


----------



## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> For the areas where the gap is less, do I still fill it with backer rods - in other words, jam it in however I can with a putty knife, or do I just fill it with silicon or polyurethane caulk?
> 
> By the way I had three pros to come out to take a look and give me a quote.
> 
> ...


 


You only need it in the wide and deep areas.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Drive backer rod down about 3/4 inch, vacuum any debris away and fill with hydraulic cement. It will flow and go down to seal better than a topping of caulk.


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

Fairview said:


> Drive backer rod down about 3/4 inch, vacuum any debris away and fill with hydraulic cement. It will flow and go down to seal better than a topping of caulk.


Isn't hydraulic cement going to form a rigid joint? If so when there is movement I think it will crack again and over time the hot miami sun and rain will end up turning the hydraulic cement into chunks of broken cement wedged into the gap sort of like it is now...or will the hydraulic cement have some flex in it?


----------



## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

miamicuse said:


> Isn't hydraulic cement going to form a rigid joint? If so when there is movement I think it will crack again and over time the hot miami sun and rain will end up turning the hydraulic cement into chunks of broken cement wedged into the gap sort of like it is now...or will the hydraulic cement have some flex in it?


 

There's no flex in hydraulic cement, stay with the caulk.


----------

