# Framing a new header for closet opening



## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Welcome jmai14, to the best darn DIY'r site on the web.

As your first project you have selected one with realitive ease. The first thing I would look for is, are the ceiling joist running perpendicular to the header you want to build or parallel. If perpendicular it is a matter of locating the joist and once your header is built you can fasten it to the ceiling joist and the verticals on either side of the closet.

I like to use 3" screws when fastening to existing joist, and 16D will be fine for the framing.

I would cut back the drywall on either vertical (sides of the existing closet) and then set your frame even with the wall studs. This will ensure the new drywall is aligned with the existing walls. When you remove the drywall there is a good chance there will be a metal corner bead that will have to be cut at the finished height of the header. 

You will need to install some corner bead on the horizontal of the new header drywall.

I think thats about it, select the color of paint, prime the new drywall with sealer, add color and open a beer.

Mark


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## carpitect (Jun 15, 2011)

Sounds like you have a good plan for the header framing.

The header and finish material won't be as heavy as you think, though it is important to get it properly attached. Ideally, you'd want to transfer the dead weight of the header to the floor with a jack stud at each end of the header. If you happen to have two studs together at the end of each of the side walls, you could cut the outer one down to be a jack stud and make the header 3" longer.

But if you only have one stud at the end of the wall and you aren't planning on reducing the size of the opening, you'd have to tear a portion of the drywall off and move the jamb stud back an 1 1/2" into the side walls and add the shorter jack stud in its place.

Do you know if the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the opening or parallel to it? 

If the ceiling joists run perpendicular to the opening, then you can attach the header to each of the ceiling joists and at the side walls, and you'd probably be okay without jack studs. 16d sinkers are great for the header framing and would be fine for attachment to the side walls. I would consider some 3" wood screws for attaching into the ceiling joists to minimize the chance of pull-out due to gravity.

If the ceiling joists run parallel and don't align right over the opening, there may be nothing to attach to at the ceiling, making jack studs or the side wall attachment more critical. In lieu of the jack studs, a stiff angle bracket under each end of the header and attached to the jamb stud would be an alternate solution. 

I would definitely remove the corner bead, at least for the width of the header. There is often a build-up of joint compound over the corner bead and you'd probably end up with a bit of a hump or bulge at each end of the header if you leave the corner bead on.


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## jmai14 (Jul 8, 2011)

Thanks for the replies and great advice. To answer a question from both of you, I believe the ceiling joists are parallel to the closet opening. 

I say "I believe" because I'm not 100% sure. The ceiling has textured paint, so I'm having difficulty getting a good reading with a stud finder. And the insulation in the attic is thick and makes it difficult to be sure, but it looks like they run parallel. The roof rafters are definitely parallel to the closet opening. Question ... are the rafters always the same location as the ceiling joists?


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## carpitect (Jun 15, 2011)

The ceiling joists *should* be running in the same direction as the roof rafters - they work to tie the bottoms of the rafters together to prevent outward thrust. 

If you can temporarily remove the ceiling insulation in the joist space over the proposed header, you could install blocking at 24" on center between the ceiling joists to have solid wood to tie in the header. Depending on the space in your attic this may be more of a job than removing a portion of the wall to add jack studs. And I think it's almost necessary to have something in the ceiling to tie the header into. As long as it is, you'll need a few points to attach it at the ceiling to keep it straight and keep it from bouncing/moving when attaching and finishing the drywall.


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## jmai14 (Jul 8, 2011)

Thanks again for the response. I went up into the attic again to be sure. The ceiling joists are definitely parallel to the closet opening. However, luckily, there is a joist that runs right along the opening itself. Do you think screwing the frame into that would be sufficient to support the weight?


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

It should be fine. Plus you're screwing the end studs into the existing wall to carry some of the weight. Being how your studs are only 6",you can put them on 24" centers to save a few ounces of weight.


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