# Wrapping 4x4 posts on front porch



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Bunch of choices, using 1X's would be my last choice due to having to prime and paint and future rotting issues.
You could replace with PVC or fiberglass colums.
Wrap with PVC lumber.
Buy premade post wraps.
Are those post sitting on post bases so there not going to rot?


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

i wrap posts all the time with pvc... simplest way is 2 1x4`s on opposite sides then switch to 1x6 to close it in... i typically use pvc which expands and contracts with hot and cold but by using 1x6 for the closing pieces it will be slightly wider than the sides clad with 1x4 which will create a reveal allowing for expansion and contraction


----------



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Are those post sitting on post bases so there not going to rot?


Posts are sitting on 1" pads.


----------



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

woodworkbykirk said:


> i wrap posts all the time with pvc... simplest way is 2 1x4`s on opposite sides then switch to 1x6 to close it in... i typically use pvc which expands and contracts with hot and cold but by using 1x6 for the closing pieces it will be slightly wider than the sides clad with 1x4 which will create a reveal allowing for expansion and contraction


I think I'll try the PVC although I've never used pic. What kind of blade is used to cut this? Can I use 1.5" 16 ga nails? Do I need to caulk the edge joints? Can I paint pvc with exterior latex?
Thanks for your help.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

PVC cuts just like real lumber, no special blade needed.
Yes it can be painted, I like to rough it up with sand paper first to give it some tooth.
There is no need to caulk it.
It's a whole lot easier to make a 3 sided box, set it in place, then add the last piece.
I use galvinized finish nails in pilot drilled holes.
Set the nail below the surface and fill the head with latex caulking so they will not rust. 
If you use a real premade post wrap there will be no visable seams.
Want to make it look a lot fancier add some post bases out of 1 X 6 PVC with some vinyl base cap molding on top.


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

with pvc, stainless steel nails perform much better because standard galv nails will still rust. ive found 15 gauge nails provide much better holding power though with pvc as 16 gauge doesnt resisnt seasonal movent as well.. your other option is cortex screws with pvc plugs


----------



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

joecaption said:


> I use galvinized finish nails in pilot drilled holes.
> Set the nail below the surface and fill the head with latex caulking so they will not rust.


Thanks.

Pilot drilled? I was planning on using a 16 ga air nailer.

i was thinking about constructing an 6x4 or 8x6 box, nailing wood 1x or 2x pads first to the 4x4.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Why bother asking for advice if you are not going to listen?Do not use a air nailer on PVC.You have 3 posts.how much extra effort will it take to predrill and hand drive a few nails?I prefer trim head screw.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

never tried it but maybe some adhesive between the joints followed up with your 16 gage nail but in SS and 2" long, if you ever see the seems loosen you could always add screws for re-inforcement.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The nails in a finish nailer are to small a gauge.
Read right on the box on even the galvinized nails "not for outside use".


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

joecaption said:


> The nails in a finish nailer are to small a gauge.
> Read right on the box on even the galvinized nails "not for outside use".



I agree the nail is a little small. But they do make SS for outside use, along with adhesive might be enough?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_611506-1278-MAXB64873___?productId=50201509&pl=1&Ntt=16+ga+ss+nails


----------



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Want to make it look a lot fancier add some post bases out of 1 X 6 PVC with some vinyl base cap molding on top.


There's a slight slope to the pitch, so the standard 45 degree miters won't line up, right? Is there some trick to handling this? I thought I could assemble the 4 pieces and cut a bit off the bottom of the 2 sides and the front facing piece?


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Just my opinion...










This link is for an idea only....

http://www.fenceall.com/aluminum-railings/square-aluminum-porch-post-or-wrap/


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

jk - you got yourself a compound miter. Need to keep the 45 degrees on the saw bevel but will need to swivel the base a degree or two. You could measure the angle to swivel by placing a board on the concrete deck running down the slope and next to the post and then draw a vertical line using the post as a guide. Take the board back to the saw and swivel the base to match your line. (hope that makes sense)


----------



## mariadelgado (May 21, 2015)

PVC is the easiest and cheapest way.


----------



## MushCreek (Aug 10, 2012)

You can glue PVC trim with either expensive trim glue, or regular PVC pipe cement, although the 'open' time is extremely short. Once glued, the nails are just going along for the ride. To make it really nice, rip a 45 degree miter on all of your boards and glue/fasten them into a box. Make three sides, then add the 4th after it is over the column. BTW- I've nailed PVC trim with 15 gauge SS finish nails using a nailer, and they worked just fine.


----------



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

Have a couple holes to fill. What type of caulk is used with PVC?


----------



## MushCreek (Aug 10, 2012)

I've been using paintable silicone caulk with good results. It doesn't shrink like regular caulk. I can't speak for the longevity yet- get back to me in 20 years or so.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

MushCreek said:


> I've been using paintable silicone caulk with good results. It doesn't shrink like regular caulk. I can't speak for the longevity yet- get back to me in 20 years or so.



I were not going to paint it, I'd spend the extra $1.00 and use 100% white silicone


----------



## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

I would rip my trim boards with a long miter on the corners so no edges are exposed. If using PVC I would use their glue to weld the miters. I would also add a plinth block detail to the bottom as well as some type of detail near the tops.


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

honestly though several have recommended mitreing the pvc i strongly advise against it and with good reason.. ive done it in the past and the problem with it is that if the post ever twists as it dries out the pvc will blow apart and be garbage.. with butt joints it will allow for the movement and simply opens up. its much easier to simply reinstall pvc thats opened up as opposed to removing it all becauses its fallling apart then replacing


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

heres a few of my jobs


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Kirk, I like the reveal on your post edges. I looks better than tying to keep the edge flush and hidden


----------



## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I got nothing to add, Listen to Kirk.


----------

