# Insulating 1958 house



## daveblt (Nov 7, 2011)

Any opinions ??


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Hi Dave, I started reading and thought, I've seen this before . I passed on giving an answer because brick houses are a pain but since no one else has replied I'll give it a try but I'll have to come back in a few. Just wanted to let you know I will respond .

Bud


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Two comments.
1. You are correct that being above grade will not be as bad as below. But concrete of any type does act like a sponge and moisture may come up from the below grade areas. I'm not sure what options are available. It seems removing the drywall and starting over would be extreme, but that brings us to my second thought.
2. Not sure where you are located, all brick sounds like Chicago, but 2.25" of fiberglass insulation is certainly not much if you are in a cold climate. If you were to do it over you might be able to increase the total to a more energy efficient level.

As for now, there is a small risk of moisture issues with the FG directly against the blocks but nothing I would push to require it be totally done all over.

Bud


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

There is supposed to be drying potential to the outside when you insulate on the inside.

Brick houses either need a framed wall built on the inside or foam on the outside covered by stucco or siding. 

they can't be retrofitted easily.


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## daveblt (Nov 7, 2011)

I live in Baltimore. Doesn't the air gap allow any kind moisture to dry out? 

Dave


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Hi again Dave,
You essentially have a framed wall on the inside, just not a full 2x4 depth. Unknown if it has a fire stop at the top but at least the cavity is filled.

Here's a related link on vapor barriers which happens to discuss several brick sided homes. Figure 2 looks similar to what you have.
https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers?full_view=1

This is a link to the 2009 energy codes, only date they provided a nice chart for, but your location may have adopted the newer 2012 or 2015. 12 and 15 did not change a lot.
https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/?state=Maryland

Bud


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## daveblt (Nov 7, 2011)

No. 2 looks similar but I'm not sure that there is any membrane or trowel on or spray applied barrier on the outside of the concrete block ( never really looked for it ) . I think it is brick then an air gap then block and the inside framing is about 3/4 of an inch away from the wall . The fiberglass insulation is touching the block wall and it is faced.

Thanks , Dave


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Yes it would be nice if there was a vapor barrier on the outside of the blocks, but you do have the air gap and there are usually vent holes between some bricks to facilitate the air flow, the vents look like missing mortar between ends of bricks.

How big of a project do you want . Seriously, removing the drywall to change the insulation and vapor barrier situation seems excessive. As for what is between the brick and block, maybe inspect that comes spring, they make thin optical inspection devices.

Bud


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