# has anyone done this homemade trusses



## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I want to duplicate a truss, the truss was made from a truss factory and stamped with approval.......I wanna use the truss in the same manner it was built for except instead of plywood and shingles I am going to use metal roofing .....it should be ok since the metal roof is lighter than shingles.......now I am going to use plywood for gussets and glue and have a good nailing patteren....I made trusses in school but never 28' long and its for my garage has anyone done this......this way duplicating anouther truss


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

My neighbor put up a shed... he put down the concrete floor first, then used that nice, flat surface to make his own trusses. But I'd recommend using steel gusset plates to connect them as they are done at the 'truss factory'.

DM


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

DangerMouse said:


> But I'd recommend using steel gusset plates to connect them as they are done at the 'truss factory'.


Is that because they are truly superior? Or just because they are cheaper and easier to install?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I would think plywood glue will age and get brittle in high heat like they will be exposed to, and nails can allow sagging. 
I'd stick with what works, and yeah, they ARE easier!
I've done smaller things with them, and they go in quick and easy.
Of course, if it ever collapses, don't expect insurance to cover the trusses that YOU made, no matter how well done.

DM


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I am not going to use the metal ones, I have seen them fail alot of times. I do not think they are better than wood gussets if done right but they are quicker for a factory to make and I dont have a 30ton press to put them in with.....I think that is the right pressure they use to mount them, so hiting them in with a hammer is not a good idea.....


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

You can copy the pattern of the truss, but you will be unable to duplicate the truss unless you have a special machine to install the truss plates. Hammering the truss plate into the wooden truss elements does not result in the same strength as an air activated, factory calibrated device.

I assume you are not planning on pulling a permit, as it is unlikely that a building inspector would issue a permit for a home made truss roof support system. Perhaps no permit is required.

I am not aware of any provisions in the code that cover home made trusses, generally the code allows trusses when they are factory designed and built. Possibly your local code has a section on design, construction and approval of home made trusses.

All that said, you are probably operating outside code, which is your privilege, just be sure you understand the implications of doing so.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Both the 'hammered' jobs I refer to are holding up just fine, but are both sheds. 
No permit needed and homemade trusses are fine. 

Po)

DM


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I do not need a building permit and I do not need to have this inspected, Thats why I was thinking of building them my self....I do understand that I cannot use the metal plates and I do not want to use them. I was wondering if I duplicated the design of the truss the angles and the pitch and used big wooden gussets and glue...and I can get my hands on some very good glue I'm not sure what its called but they use it on venear it is super strong and stands up to heat......


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

A few years back during another recession my work got slow and I worked in a truss factory. After seeing the metal gussets I never did like them, I know they do hold up but they just don't look like they would. I have built a few buildings with a good span, building my own trusses and they are still standing today. One garage I helped my dad build is still standing after 40 some odd years and we built the trusses with 1/2 plywood gussets.


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## johnnyboy (Oct 8, 2007)

every metal gussets i've ever seen at a lumber yard or big box store says "NOT FOR TRUSSES" is that just a way to avoid liability for them? I mean they don't really have any other use? anyway,

I used them on my 20x10 shed, just a triangle truss and it was HELL using a hammer on those suckers. 

I'm sure the adhesives in modern plywood have improved enough to get you the strength and durability you need.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I can't see how building a truss would be any different then building a wall, as far as strength goes. 

Though, could you not use a piece of 2x6 to put them together, instead of plywood? It seems this would be much stronger then anything.


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

My father built trusses with the plywood like you are talking about for an outdoor toolshed roof. He followed plans to do this and it was for a shed. I think I would rather buy prebuilt trusses if it were for my house roof. Sure, they will cost you more but it would be worth it for piece of mind IMO. If you are going to do it I think the plywood would be the better way to go in light of what Dan posted above.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

Hey thanks for all the replies guys..JiJu1943 do you remember how you nailed them......when I built them in school we nailed every sq. inch meaning we drew a grid with lines and it was nailed half on one side and the otherside got the other half so the nails didnt drive into each other we used 1/2" plywood with 2" nails just wondering what way you built them years ago?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I think you are building "an accident waiting to happen". 1/2" ply- no try 3/4" and spiral hard nails: http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...I0xqQV&sig=AHIEtbQizl3G-LWeTUt-6fTirapfPwoKzA

You really should give up or a lot more research and contact a Structural Engineer for advice......

Be safe, Gary


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Chriscr, it has been so long I really don't remember but I do know the nails were coated, not commons. (hand nails not gun nails) With 1/2 inch plywood on each side there would potentially be enough wood for 2 1/2 inch nails. You can get nail gun nails from 2 inch through 3 1/2 inch. If I were to use a framing gun I would go with a 8d ring shank nail. The ring shank will hold better than most any other nail out there.

In west Tennessee I could get a construction glue that was stronger than the Liquid Nails and is called F26. If you can find that glue it is by far the best out there IMHO. F26 comes in caulk tubes and is made by Leech here is a link to the product http://www.leechadhesives.com/F26products.htm

I hope I am not breaking rules posting the link, I am not connected in any way with them folks.

Be aware that the F26 is flammable until it dries so be aware of that if you use it.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

Chriscr said:


> I want to duplicate a truss, the truss was made from a truss factory and stamped with approval.......I wanna use the truss in the same manner it was built for except instead of plywood and shingles I am going to use metal roofing .....it should be ok since the metal roof is lighter than shingles.......now I am going to use plywood for gussets and glue and have a good nailing patteren....I made trusses in school but never 28' long and its for my garage has anyone done this......this way duplicating anouther truss



I've seen numerous old plywood gusset trusses. Never seen one fail, but that doesn't mean they haven't. The problem, as noted, is that what you're building hasn't been tested and no one knows how much weight it will hold. You might actually build a stronger truss than a factory stamped unit. It could be half as strong as well, but there's no way of knowing. Since you seem to have your mind made up to go ahead with this, I'd err on the side of caution. Gusset both sides. Research your glue and nail choices well. Use 3/4" plywood. Good luck.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

Thanks SEEYOU....and your right I do have my mind made up on making them myself......I think I can make them stronger the ones I put for my father I thought were junk in my mind. I think I can make them stronger, alot of people dont think plywood is that strong and when you put plywood against a solid object and glue and nail it or samwhich it together it is very strong.....but mamma didnt raise know fool thats why I am asking if anyone else has done one this length before........my only real concern was the where the two bottom chord meet in the middle and connecting them, maybe I can fab something out of metal to I have a nice hunk of plate left over from the last truck I built


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

You don't list your location, but I'm sure you need a permit to build this garage. 
If you do not permit, and get caught, they WILL make you take it down and likely fine you as well. 

Just my 2¢.

DM


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

LIKE I SAID BEFORE I do not need a building permit and I do not need it inspected.......I live in PA and the town I live in has a loop hole in the system and every one around here uses it.......it is if you add on to your existing garage and keep it under 1000 sq ft you only need a zoneing permit and not a building permit or an inspection then you tear down the old garage if thats in your plans which it is in mine


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

It's cool, calm down.... You can do it if you want to. 
But as stated, unless properly engineered, you have no idea how much weight they will hold, and if they fail, insurance will NOT pay. In MY neck of the woods, (literally) I'd HAVE to permit a one car garage, even if under the 200 sq. ft. "no permit needed" rule.

DM


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I already have the engineered specs and what they are designed for, except I am putting a metal roof on which is lighter and I am changing the gussets.....all the gussets do is bond the truss together....so if I can bond the truss together stronger than the metal plates then I should be in good shape


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

Chriscr, I say go for it. We've let _the man_ hold us back with his rules and regulations way too long. :thumbsup:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Proby said:


> We've let _the man_ hold us back with his rules and regulations way too long. :thumbsup:


too funny.... LOL

DM


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I hear ya Proby........DAMN THE MAN.......I got a couple more weeks till I can set my pole and I have to start building the truss so I will keep researching. Maybe I will get some more info from on here from some oldhead...I might set my poles build maybe two trusses and set them up and then hang some cupcakes in them with some rope hanging from them and see how many fat kids I can get up on them, I have to say I will be the first fat kid up there.....


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Well.... save US some cupcakes!

DM


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Chriscr said:


> I hear ya Proby........DAMN THE MAN.......I got a couple more weeks till I can set my pole and I have to start building the truss so I will keep researching. Maybe I will get some more info from on here from some oldhead...I might set my poles build maybe two trusses and set them up and then hang some cupcakes in them with some rope hanging from them and see how many fat kids I can get up on them, I have to say I will be the first fat kid up there.....


Fat kids, now you done quite preachin and gone to meddlin. :laughing:


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

Sorry Jim waitin to hear if anyone has built these trusses lately


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

Chriscr said:


> I hear ya Proby........DAMN THE MAN.


I think it's pretty cool to try something like this out on your own. If there is something specific that you are doing that might not work right, then you should avoid doing it. But I don't subscribe to the theory that everything in life needs to be certified, stamped, listed, etc. There's nothing wrong with using a little ingenuity as long as you follow it thru with proper research.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I hear ya Proby and if i find any new info I will put it on here and when I build them I will post everything and then maybe we will get about 4' of snow this winter and I can see how my work holds up.....


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

www.unitload.vt.edu/research/WOODBulletin-29.pdf


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## sailordon (Aug 13, 2010)

*Build them, they will hold.*

1/2 " cdx and 2 1/4" gun nails, good urethane adhesive. Do not skimp on gusset size, plywood is cheap. I've used 1/4 and 3/8 ply for small shed trusses and 1/2" will hold fine but do both sides of all common trusses. The bottom chord is in tension and is supported by hanging from the rafters above via the "v" or "w" internal bracing. Also consider snow slides really well off that metal so snow load is usually light. I've build many sheds and several pole barns, all are fine...we don't need those permits or inspectors for AG buildings in MD.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I spoke with my fathers buddy today, he works for an engineering and survay company and my dad works on all there company cars and trucks and most of the employees cars so I knew he would help me......well I told him what my plans where told him I was copying a truss and making my own gussets and he said that what I did on my garage......make sure the wood is dry all your cuts and angles sit flush to each other when you lay them out......use a good glue and nail them but dont over do it and use acouple of deck screws to help keep the plywood tight. He told me he only used plywood on one side but both side is good to but dont make them to big cause then your adding bad weight......well thats all I got right now but I am still looking ideas....I'll keep you all posted


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## framerman (Mar 30, 2008)

The metal gussets at the box stores are not structural. You cannot get the real ones, they are for truss companies that pay large sums of money for the software, like from Mitek.

28' long trusses, I would caution against personally making them. I'm not even sure why you would be going this route since rafters would be way easier, way cheaper, and nothing to do with plywood gussets or anything.

I'm going to guess it is because you don't quite know how to cut a rafter, or maybe just in this situation...which is OK. You can lay the board right up against the truss and mark it out just as you would a truss. You would end up with a small beam in the mid span for your ceiling joists and may be able to create some room for some storage.

Though I would highly suggest a friend, a buddy, the local lumber yard....anyone who might be able to take a peek and give you an OK.

If you go with the truss method, get the PL adhesive, the one in the yellow and red tube. It more than likely is not going to be at HD, but will be at your local lumber yard. Gussets should be at least 12"x12" and make sure you don't miss any surface area with the glue.


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

framerman, at this size a rafter system would be way cheaper? I thought the whole point to the truss was that it was cheaper?


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## framerman (Mar 30, 2008)

It all depends on the way you look at cheaper. You are going to spend an immense amount of time putting glue and gussets all over the place. You could throw a midspan beam 90° to the ceiling joists, post up the ridge, post mid span bracing for the rafters and be code compliant. 

The material for trusses is machine stress rated. If the OP checks the lumber stamp on the one truss he has, there should be some markings like "1500fB" on the top chord. If that is the case, a 2x4 you get at the lumber yard does not compare to the structural qualities of the truss.

The webs of a truss is usually regular dimensional lumber that you and I can get just about anywhere. It's the machine rated material that is next to impossible to get.

Does the OP have an idea of what the snow loads are?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I built my shop which was 32X40, and made my own trusses and had no problems at all. I used 1/2 plywood gussets somewhat over sized so I could get a good nail spread. It is still standing after 18 years, I roofed it with tin with the trusses on 32 inch centers, 2X4 lath 24 inch on center 5 and 12 pitch.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I am going to try to make this short and sweet since I am very hungry and very drunk.........the whole reason why I posted this in the beginning was to see if anyone has any new plans behind plywood gussets and from what I have seen the answer is no. I am building a 28' x 26' garage for one car or truck and for storage and my wood shop.....so thats 26' x 12' for my truck and 26' x 16' for me to hide from the old ladie, now I can build my truss for under 400.00 bucks thats half of what the truss factory wanted to sell them to me for.......you going to build rafters cheaper than that, and I dont need extra storage....i have learned from my father and from other older men If you have to get out a ladder to stick something some where you are prob not going to get the ladder out to get it back....I dont want to be climbing up and down to get stuff.....and for you John Wayne......I am trying to keep the pitch as low as I can because I like view behind my house I do not live in the country so what little view I got I want to keep and all I got is time I am going to built this garage pretty much by myself and as I am waiting for concrete to get hard and everything else I can be building my trusses and by the wat who else do you want me to have look at these, an engineer drew up the plans I am building the gussets the way an engineer told me to and none of my buddies are smarter than me why do you think im on here.....my friends dont even know how to read a tape and I can cut a rafter just to let you know and we are way passed the metal gusset thing, that ended on page one i think.....so I am going to recap and I am sorry I was going for short and sweet but it happens.....looking for new news on plywood gussets... I got everything else under control......P.S. Is that you John Wayne is this me


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

Man I just read what I wrote last nite and I should really use spell check when I'm drunk......sorry if I offended anybody..........


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## framerman (Mar 30, 2008)

It's all good. I hope your trusses go together well.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

pp. #112: http://books.google.com/books?id=_C...esnum=10&ved=0CC4Q6AEwCQ#v=onepage&q=&f=false

Be safe, Gary


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

ole jim you got any pics of your trusses.........thanks gary that was more about rafters from what I seen but it did show good nailing patterns.....here is something I found I thought it was pretty cool the report was from a few years ago but it was good let me know what you guys think......http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrp/fplrp444.pdf


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I cant believe nobody commented


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Nice! Now you know the best glue, plywood and nails.... I thought the nails had more to input.... pp 18 is sweet and a 15 year time warp, We all paid for that fed test! Watch the grade and the knots.......
Good find.

Be safe, Gary


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Chriscr said:


> ole jim you got any pics of your trusses.........thanks gary that was more about rafters from what I seen but it did show good nailing patterns.....here is something I found I thought it was pretty cool the report was from a few years ago but it was good let me know what you guys think......http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrp/fplrp444.pdf


I didn't have a digital camera back then and since we had built quite a few buildings like that it just didn't seem worth taking a picture of. grin

The article is saying the same way we built ours. We made sure we never had a cross strut at a break in the 2Xs.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

I thought it was cool, it tells you everything. I'm sure the metal plate are better now then they were 35 years ago but the glue and plywood in the tests seem to beat them in alot of those tests.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

here are some pics guys sorry there not that good, if anyone wants more input let me know


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

They look good, way ta go, I'm glad it worked out for you.


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## Chriscr (Aug 11, 2010)

thanks Jim and I am very happy with them


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