# Thermostat clicks but nothing happens



## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Is there power to the thermostat? Is there a call for cooling at Y1 on the control board?


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

Did you check BOTH the breaker in your panel as well as the one in the subpanel near the outside unit?

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

jeffmattero76 said:


> Did you check BOTH the breaker in your panel as well as the one in the subpanel near the outside unit?
> 
> Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


Yes.



roughneck said:


> Is there power to the thermostat?


There appears to be power to thermostat:











roughneck said:


> Is there a call for cooling at Y1 on the control board?


 I'm not sure; how do I check?


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Your meter. The thermostat has power all the time because of the batteries


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

roughneck said:


> Your meter. The thermostat has power all the time because of the batteries


OK...How do I use my multi meter to check:
1) Is there power to the thermostat?
2) If there's a call for cooling at Y1 on the control board?
2a) Where is Y1 on the control board?


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

forget about the meter for now.

disconnect wires connected to r, y and g at the stat and touch them together.

if the system doesn't come on the problem is elsewhere.

if does, get a new t-stat.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

I took this small piece of wire and I touched the wire to R and G. However, the blower doesn't turn on.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

I found one large purple fuse, which looks OK and I think I located "Y1" on the control board but how do I test it with meter? FWIW... I have one of those cheap 7 function digital multimeter from HF as well as a Milwaukee pen style digital multimeter.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

It sounds like you don't have any control voltage. Is there anything present on the secondary side of the transformer?


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

set the meter to ohms and touch the leads to the metal parts of the fuse.

one lead per metal part u see in the picture.

it should read very close to 0 ohms.

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other tests

depress the door switch and check for voltage between R and C on the board.

Set meter to AC current, should read 24vac, possibly up to 30vac with nothing running.

check for ac power entering the board with door switch depressed.

You have to check the schematic to see which board terminals get ac 120v power.

do this wrong, slip up and you could get hurt, possibly killed as you're testing live with line voltage.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

user_12345a said:


> set the meter to ohms and touch the leads to the metal parts of the fuse.
> 
> one lead per metal part u see in the picture.
> 
> ...


This is with the fuse pulled out. (better test then deciding between low and nearly 0 ohms.) symbol on the meter is Ω

For voltage, the symbol will be a V with a ~ above it. 

Cheers!


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## subbuilder (Jun 20, 2016)

My older unit also has a third fuse in the "blower closet". Expert advice appreciated on this comment if it applies and could be of use.
Sub (who sees things but just isn't educated on what it is)


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

I took out the purple fuse, which had the number 3 on it. I set my ohmmeter function to 200 on my HF multimeter and got a reading of 3.5. 

FWIW, The air handler is a Rheem RHLL-HM3821JA...
Here is wiring diagram:


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

roughneck said:


> It sounds like you don't have any control voltage. Is there anything present on the secondary side of the transformer?


I'm not sure; how do I check this?


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

a1481155 said:


> I'm not sure; how do I check this?


On one side of the transformer, it'll be labeled 230v-208-com. Measure for voltage across the 2 that are wired. (one won't be wired) 

Then measure across the other side of the transformer. Labeled 24v.

The door switch needs to be pressed during this measurement. Wires on backside of switch are live. 

Report back. 

Cheers!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

supers05 said:


> On one side of the transformer, it'll be labeled 230v-208-com. Measure for voltage across the 2 that are wired. (one won't be wired)
> 
> Then measure across the other side of the transformer. Labeled 24v.
> 
> ...


Is this the Transformer? 
If yes, I can't see any labels on it, as described but I noticed "24VAC" (top left of pic)
with red wire coming out of board and going into the top right of this...


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Yes

Cheers!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Cool!
But, I don't see a "door switch needs to be pressed"...Hmm?


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

It's a safety switch in line with the incoming power wires. Should be listed on the wiring schematic


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

roughneck said:


> It's a safety switch in line with the incoming power wires. Should be listed on the wiring schematic


The wiring diagram and schematic are available in pdf online at: 
http://resource.gemaire.com/is/content/Watscocom/Gemaire/article_1369225415255_en_wd.pdf?fmt=pdf


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

It looks like this is an electric heat or heat pump unit? If so it will not have one.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

When you pull off the bottom panel you should see a door switch. It's purpose is to not allow the furnace to fire up if the door is off. It is typically located near the top left of the area that the panel would cover. It looks like a 1 inch or so plastic pin about the circumference of a drinking straw. It is spring loaded so you should be able to press it in and tape it in that position while doing your testing.

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

jeffmattero76 said:


> When you pull off the bottom panel you should see a door switch. It's purpose is to not allow the furnace to fire up if the door is off. It is typically located near the top left of the area that the panel would cover. It looks like a 1 inch or so plastic pin about the circumference of a drinking straw. It is spring loaded so you should be able to press it in and tape it in that position while doing your testing.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


Like roughneck mentioned, it isn't always present. 

Cheers!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

This unit is electric and has both cooling and heating capability. That said, I'm in South Florida and don't use the heat. I took off bottom door and still don't see a "door switch needs to be pressed". I also, called Rheem..."No idea about safety switch, we have no tech support for owners; owners should not be opening the units...It would be stupid to do that".


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

The manufacturer says that as a liability. Too many people put their hands where they don't belong and get hurt. 
Hell, some professionals do that same and walk away missing body parts.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

If you get voltage anywhere with the doors off, then you don't have a switch and don't worry about it.

I'm just used to gas furnaces, which do have them. Is not a big deal. 

Did you end up measuring the voltage where I requested? 

Cheers!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

UPDATE:
I bit the bullet and called an a/c tech for a service call. He came out and first checked the thermostat and then went right for the breaker inside the unit, at top...Power coming in...No power going out. Then he went outside to the condenser and found a wire burnt out, at the top. $89 for diagnostics OR $350 for repair (replace breaker & repair top of wire). What would you do?


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

I'd have it fixed. 

A breaker like will be $50-100 depending on availability. And you'll still be without heat until you get it and install it yourself. 

However, since it's 7 hours later, I'm sure you have already decided. 

Cheers!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

supers05 said:


> I'd have it fixed.
> 
> A breaker like will be $50-100 depending on availability. And you'll still be without heat until you get it and install it yourself.
> 
> ...


Thanks!
Heat is definitely not an issue. :vs_no_no_no: 
Yes, I paid him $64 ($89 service call - $25 coupon) and decided to try and DIY...With a little help from my friends here, of course. :vs_cool: 
The tech was very informative. As for the breaker, he said, to cut the wires to remove the old breaker, strip coating back enough, to expose fresh wiring to reconnect, install new breaker, which should be available, locally. As for the wire, in the condenser outside, he said to disconnect the wire, cut the bad part off the top and strip coating back enough, to expose fresh wiring to reconnect. FWIW: I haven't confirmed it's the right one, yet but I believe I found the breaker, in stock locally for $16.78 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-60-Amp-Two-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-QO260CP/100065234 

Thoughts??

First thing, I noticed is my breaker has rusty screws, where the wiring gets attached that are but the pic @ HD doesn't show screws. I won't know until I get there but do these breakers typically come with the screws? or are they part of the air handler?


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

FWIW: He also said, I could just do away with the breaker, and splice the wires together...Hmm?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Three small wires wire nutted to one big wire. Is sometimes harder to make a good connection than you might think. And can melt the wire insulation, and make for more involved repairs.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

beenthere said:


> Three small wires wire nutted to one big wire. Is sometimes harder to make a good connection than you might think. And can melt the wire insulation, and make for more involved repairs.


Thanks! 
Agreed, I replaced the breaker ($59 at local electric supply store not HD) and repaired the wire, in the condenser, as recommended...I now have a/c! :vs_cool: Total out of pocket $123 ($64 diagnostics + $59 breaker) vs. quote of $350 = SAVINGS of $227! Thanks to all, who helped along the way! :thumbsup:


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

a1481155 said:


> FWIW: He also said, I could just do away with the breaker, and splice the wires together...Hmm?


If it's the only breaker, and the breaker in your main panel is the same size or smaller, then only then it's OK. If there's another breaker in there, or the pantry breaker is larger, then it's a terrible idea. 

.
The breaker looks to be some kind of DIN rail mountable. SquareD makes more then one type. Looks like you're good though. 

.
The outdoor contactor looks like it got fairly hot, and therefore the melting. The contacts are probably bad. You can see them by removing the top cover. I'd replace it. 

Cheers!


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