# Dehumidifier question - basement drain vs sump pump?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Both will work, I'd prefer not to be using an extension cord.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

I assume you're talking about the floor drain. Floor drains don't get used much and as a result the p traps tend to dry out. The dehumidifier will help prevent this.

Why do you need an extension cord? You should be able to connect a hose to the back of the machine.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Bob Sanders said:


> I assume you're talking about the floor drain. Floor drains don't get used much and as a result the p traps tend to dry out. The dehumidifier will help prevent this.
> 
> Why do you need an extension cord? You should be able to connect a hose to the back of the machine.


Yeah I was referring to a floor drain. Are you suggesting I should use the floor drain instead of the sump pump?

The reason I need an extension cord is that all my outlets are up high (by the floor joists) and the dehumidifier only has a 6' cord. 

The one and only outlet that's lower is over by the sump pump (about 50 feet from the floor drain).

I'm just trying to figure out which would be best to use. It seems from the people that have come over to my house that the floor drain is the better option. If so I need to use an extension cord (to reach the outlet), build a stand (to make the dehumidifier reach the outlet), or get a really long dehumidifier hose.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I would use the floor drain. A short heavy duty extension cord will be fine. Look for one that is list as #14 or #12 wire. Don't use a #16 or #18 cord. One made for an air conditioner will be fine. Use the shortest one possible.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

joed said:


> I would use the floor drain. A short heavy duty extension cord will be fine. Look for one that is list as #14 or #12 wire. Don't use a #16 or #18 cord. One made for an air conditioner will be fine. Use the shortest one possible.


Thanks. It seems like the shortest a lot of the places sell is 9 ft. 

I found this one which seems like it will work > http://www.sears.com/stanley-31536-heavy-duty-9-foot-125v-extension/p-SPM10636314319


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Shop around for a 12 gauge 15 amp. 25 ft. cord for the same price or less. You'll discover it be handy for other occasional tasks for a long time.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

Fairview said:


> Shop around for a 12 gauge 15 amp. 25 ft. cord for the same price or less. You'll discover it be handy for other occasional tasks for a long time.


Yep, that, or if you're set on just a short extension, look for a heavy duty power strip or surge protector.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Thanks, so it looks like I want something 12 Gauge and 15 AMP. The shorter the better it seems.

I found this one at the HD for $30 > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-25-ft-12-3-Extension-Cord-AW62614/100661446

The packaging says "Medium" under use.

This one looks a little bit nicer > http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-25-ft-12-3-Extension-Cord-AW62630/100661448


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

How often is this dehumidifier running ?

If it sits there plugged in to an extension cord for long periods, I would call it a violation of the Code. No use of extension cords to replace permanent wiring.

The proper fix would be to add a receptacle where you need it. The Mfg supplied a 6 foot cord for a reason.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Oso954 said:


> How often is this dehumidifier running ?
> 
> If it sits there plugged in to an extension cord for long periods, I would call it a violation of the Code. No use of extension cords to replace permanent wiring.
> 
> The proper fix would be to add a receptacle where you need it. The Mfg supplied a 6 foot cord for a reason.


I plan on having it run all the time. It will be in the basement, where I have high levels of humidity. 

I just wanted to make sure I absolutely need an electrician to come in otherwise I will just buy a 12-gauge, 15amp, 125v extension cord.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

The code compliant way is to have a receptacle added lower on the wall within the 6 foot reach of the power cord.

If you choose not to comply, the 9 ft appliance cord you linked to would be a better choice than longer cords or smaller wire cords.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Oso954 said:


> The code compliant way is to have a receptacle added lower on the wall within the 6 foot reach of the power cord.
> 
> If you choose not to comply, the 9 ft appliance cord you linked to would be a better choice than longer cords or smaller wire cords.


Being in code is an absolute must for me. So now I'm looking to either add OR relocate the metal receptacle box.

*This brings me to this question.*

The metal basement outlets are currently attached to the ceiling floor joists. Is it usually best to relocate the outlet and move it lower (towards the floor) or is it recommended to keep the existing outlet where it's at and just add a new one lower?

The floor drain is close by so I would imagine I would have to use a GFCI outlet.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I would definitely leave the box in place. Whether I left the receptacle in it, or just used it as a junction box with a blank cover would depend on the situation.

As far as the GFCI, by current code all receptacles in an unfinished basement are required to be GFCI protected. 

I would look for the first receptacle on the circuit where I could place the GFCI (to protect that location and all receptacles down stream of it), while making sure that the lights would not go out with a GFCI trip. If there is another receptacle circuit(s) in the basement, I would protect it/them as well.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Oso954 said:


> I would definitely leave the box in place. Whether I left the receptacle in it, or just used it as a junction box with a blank cover would depend on the situation.
> 
> As far as the GFCI, by current code all receptacles in an unfinished basement are to required to be GFCI protected.
> 
> I would look for the first receptacle on the circuit where I could place the GFCI (to protect that location and all receptacles down stream of it), while making sure that the lights would not go out with a GFCI trip. If there is another receptacle circuit(s) in the basement, I would protect it/them as well.


Thanks. Tonight I'll open the box up and get a picture of the setup I currently have. 

Excuse my lack of knowledge but when you refer to a "junction box" I assume you meant if I removed the existing receptacle and used the box to connect wires?

I was thinking of just leaving the box as it is now. I believe code is to have the outlets at least 6 feet apart (I need to double check that). But if that's the case then I can simply add this new one (by adding a metal box and receptacle) and making sure it's at least 6 feet away from the existing outlet. 

Anything to worry about with powering a dehumidifier using an outlet that's been piggybacked off another receptacle?


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> Excuse my lack of knowledge but when you refer to a "junction box" I assume you meant if I removed the existing receptacle and used the box to connect wires?


 Yes.



> I believe code is to have the outlets at least 6 feet apart (I need to double check that).


 No, there is no minimum distance. For finished spaces, the code is that receptacles shall be installed such that no point measured horizontally along the floor line in any wall space is more than six feet from a receptacle outlet. In other words, a max of 12 feet between them.



> Anything to worry about with powering a dehumidifier using an outlet that's been piggybacked off another receptacle?


No issue, assuming the additional wire/cable does not cause box fill problems. That can be fixed by replacing the box with a larger one, or removing the receptacle. 

The other possible issue would be the load of the dehumidifier vs what else is using power on the same circuit ? Particularly with a basement where owners (over time) have been adding more and more receptacles for different purposes, you could reach the point where certain combinations of uses, start tripping the breaker.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Oso954 said:


> The other possible issue would be the load of the dehumidifier vs what else is using power on the same circuit ? Particularly with a basement where owners (over time) have been adding more and more receptacles for different purposes, you could reach the point where certain combinations of uses, start tripping the breaker.


The only thing I believe on that circuit is an ejector pump for the floor drain. I'm hoping the dehumidifier + ejector pump will be OK. I'm not using any of the basement outlets right now (except the sump pump and ejector pump) since I don't have much down there. 

I will get some pictures when I get home.


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## DetroitIrish (Oct 27, 2014)

Do you live at the residence? Is there a filter on the unit? I notice our filter gets dirty, have to keep an eye on it.i have to clean the filter about every 2 weeks. We have 2 cats, that doesnt help either!


Motor City Patrick


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

DetroitIrish said:


> Do you live at the residence? Is there a filter on the unit? I notice our filter gets dirty, have to keep an eye on it.i have to clean the filter about every 2 weeks. We have 2 cats, that doesnt help either!
> 
> 
> Motor City Patrick


I do live in a residence. I bought the 70-pint Frigidaire unit which does have a filter. Since it's new I haven't gotten the filter light to come on yet but I will be closely monitoring that. I would imagine it's the cats :thumbsup:


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

I took some pictures of my basement so you guys can see what I'm working with. I'm trying to figure out where I would even install this outlet so that it's close to my floor drain.

This is where I currently have the unit (notice the sump and radon unit behind). The sump is all sealed for the Radon mitigation system so I would like to avoid using that. 
This is also the ONLY outlet in the basement close to the ground.









You can see the silver floor drain in this picture. I'd really like the dehumidifier to be close to this and the stairs (so it's closer to the moisture). You can see the outlet in this picture and how it's connected to the floor joist. It's about 2 feet too far from the dehumidifier if I place it under. 









I have these 3 outlets that connect to each other, which are not in use. I was thinking about putting one all the way towards the staircase and then mounting it on the back of a leg on the staircase.









Any ideas on where I could put the receptacle?









Only thing I came up with is adding some more 2x4's and adding two more legs to the stairs towards the drain and mounting it to that.









Where do you think I should mount the receptacle? Or should I just build/buy a stand for the thing?


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

*UPDATE:* I went to Home Depot and bought some 2x4's and plywood. I'm just gunna make a stand with a plywood base that will lift it off the ground 26". It should then reach the outlet. I'll take a picture when I'm done. 


I'm still curious where you guys would mount a receptacle with my setup. I was thinking of doing it by the stairs so that when I frame the basement I would have an outlet right at the side of the stairs to vacuum, etc.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Inside the mechanical closest or under the stairs will work.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

Windows on Wash said:


> Inside the mechanical closest or under the stairs will work.


Where under the stairs though? On the side (by the 2x4)?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Where is the floor drain you want to use? The receptacle needs to be near it.
It looks like everything is in conduit. Are in an area that requires all conduit? It would be simple to mount a block part way down one of those columns and then mount a receptacle on it.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

joed said:


> Where is the floor drain you want to use? The receptacle needs to be near it.


The floor drain is circled in red, the cord for the dehumidifier is 6 feet long. 












> It looks like everything is in conduit. Are in an area that requires all conduit?


In Cook County, IL you don't need to run ground wires if you ground through the conduit. It seems most homes around here are done this way. 



> It would be simple to mount a block part way down one of those columns and then mount a receptacle on it.


How would you mount the outlet to the column? Would it be where I drew the yellow lines?










As far as mounting it on the stairs, this is where I was thinking (yellow line)


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

If I was going to mount the receptacle to the red column how best would you do that?

I was thinking about getting 2 U-Bands and using those to hook around and the beam which would then screw into a piece of plywood. I could then put a hose clamp right below it as well.

This way I would have a square plywood surface to mount the receptacle onto. Does this make sense?

I would do this using this configuration but I wasn't sure if I could add another outlet to that series since I have 3 receptacles on that circuit (one of them looks to be a 220).


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I would get a couple pieces of 2x6 cut 5-6 inches longer than the the pole width. Then I find some lumber slightly thinner than pole. Use a 2x6 on either side and the lumber in between. Screw it all together. The lumber being thinner than the pole should make it clamp tight. Bring the conduit down and mount the box to the 2x6.
I think Cook county Illinois might be one of those region requiring conduit everywhere.

The side of the stairway also looks like viable option.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

joed said:


> I would get a couple pieces of 2x6 cut 5-6 inches longer than the the pole width. Then I find some lumber slightly thinner than pole. Use a 2x6 on either side and the lumber in between. Screw it all together. The lumber being thinner than the pole should make it clamp tight. Bring the conduit down and mount the box to the 2x6.
> I think Cook county Illinois might be one of those region requiring conduit everywhere.
> 
> The side of the stairway also looks like viable option.


I'm trying to visualize what you're saying. So you make a box 5-6" bigger than the column, but the part after that I wasn't sure of? 

What do you mean by lumbar slightly thinner than the pole?

*EDIT:*
I made a quick picture of what I think you were describing below. The red lines are the 2x6 which are 5-6" longer and the green lines are 2x6 which are shorter than the pole. The Brown line is the plywood face I would mount the outlet to. This whole thing would "clamp" towards the pole once screwed in.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

If the pole is 4 inch diameter and you cut the green pieces 3 3/4 inch when you screw it together the red boards will squeeze the pole and hold the whole thing in place from sliding down.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Not so quick........
Are you sure your basement drain is tied in to a line that will carry the water out.?
If not, you might want to use the sump pump. Also, It's defeating the purpose of your radon system.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ron45 said:


> Not so quick........
> Are you sure your basement drain is tied in to a line that will carry the water out.?
> If not, you might want to use the sump pump. Also, It's defeating the purpose of your radon system.


I was told the drain does carry it out to the sewage. This drain is used for the water heater as well in the event that any water comes out. 

What's defeating the purpose of the radon system? Having the drain?

My thinking is I want to use the drain so the water gets pumped out of the house to the sewage as opposed to sitting in the sump pump. Does this make sense?


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Nothing is defeating if the drain is tied in and sealed. If it's not, there's nothing to keep the radon from passing through.
Sewer or sump pump.? Is one free.?


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

ron45 said:


> Nothing is defeating if the drain is tied in and sealed. If it's not, there's nothing to keep the radon from passing through.
> Sewer or sump pump.? Is one free.?


The drain wasn't sealed using the radon caulk when they
did all the radon work. I'm not sure if this is normally
how they do it or not, does anyone here know if they usually caulk/seal the floor drain to mitigate radon?

Or do they leave it open since it's not exposed to the outside (where the radon gas comes from)?

I had a professional radon mitigation company do all the work
before I bought the house and they sealed everything up
except the floor drain so I'm curious if that was intended.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Floor drain should have a trap under it and be connected to the sewer system. There should be no access to underground gasses. I don't see the issue.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

I'm not trying to scare you....
I'm just saying not all floor drains are tied in and sealed, the less water entering under your slab the better. An open floor drain ( not tied in and sealed) would defeat the radon system.
Here's some info.
http://www.radontestinglab.com/enterhome.asp

If the drain runs through your sewer will you have to pay for it, compared to running through the sump pump that you may not have to.?


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## Geterdone1nce (Oct 17, 2014)

You have probably already decided on this but ya know the easiest, really, attach an old piece of garden hose and just let it drain into the sump pump. We do. Never a problem.


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