# what length staple should I use for underlayment?



## howdihi (Sep 7, 2010)

Tomorrow I am renting a stapler that takes up to 1 1/2 inch narrow crown staplers. I am not sure what length staples to purchase.

I am stapling 5/8 inch plywood down onto plank flooring (subfloor) that is 3/4 inch thick. This comes to be 1 3/8 inch thick. I have never used a stapler before and not sure about the "rules." No one around here seems to know.

Can I use 1 1/4 inch staples? If I do, they will not go through all the way to the basement. If I use 1 1/2, they will show in the basement. I hope staples are not supposed to be 1.5 times the thickness you are going through like nails.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

I'd use screws, not staples.


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## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

The code in Utah where I am allows for 1" 3/4 staples to be used to secure the floor sheathing. This is not allowed in all areas. Most people will tell you to use an 8 penny ring shank nail and alot of glue


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Ninjaframer said:


> The code in Utah where I am allows for 1" 3/4 staples to be used to secure the floor sheathing. This is not allowed in all areas. Most people will tell you to use an 8 penny ring shank nail and alot of glue


Screw the code and screw the floor(with adhesive) 
No squeeks


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## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

The staples actualy seem to work pretty well as far as eliminating squeaks goes. If someone is worried about it I screw the hallways down in addition to the staples.


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## howdihi (Sep 7, 2010)

Ron6519 said:


> I'd use screws, not staples.




If I did, and I have started doing that, how many per sheet of plywood. I have found that it has been a pita.


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## howdihi (Sep 7, 2010)

Ninjaframer said:


> The code in Utah where I am allows for 1" 3/4 staples to be used to secure the floor sheathing. This is not allowed in all areas. Most people will tell you to use an 8 penny ring shank nail and alot of glue



So, I should be using longer staples than the underlayment and subfloor combined? I would be afraid I would hit some pipes downstairs. And the rental only goes up to 1.5 inches


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## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

Im not sure what the UBC says but I would think 6" on edges and 8" in the field would be ok


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## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

What about the floor joists? Can't you staple over them?


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## howdihi (Sep 7, 2010)

Ninjaframer said:


> The staples actualy seem to work pretty well as far as eliminating squeaks goes. If someone is worried about it I screw the hallways down in addition to the staples.


Can I get away with using the length staples I proposed above? There are some squeaks with the subfloor. It is tongue and groove wood plank. How do I get rid of those squeaks?

So, when everyone is talking about getting rid of squeaks, is it the subfloor that is causing the squeaks usually so you nail down the underlayment a lot and it stops the subfloor from squeaking?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

howdihi said:


> If I did, and I have started doing that, how many per sheet of plywood. I have found that it has been a pita.


Every 8"on the edge, 12" in the field.
There are screw guns that use 50 screw bandoliers that will make it go faster.


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## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

I doubt you will be able to eliminate the squeaks in the planking completely. I'm guessing it's nailed down with smooth shank nails and unless you go through and tighten it up first I think your going to find that it still squeaks no matter how you install the new sheathing.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Ninjaframer said:


> I doubt you will be able to eliminate the squeaks in the planking completely. I'm guessing it's nailed down with smooth shank nails and *unless you go through and tighten it up first* I think your going to find that it still squeaks no matter how you install the new sheathing.


Now there’s a brilliant thought.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Be sure to orient the plywood properly if no t&g edges: http://www.apawood.org/pablog/index...tion-of-Plywood-Underlayment-in-Floor-Systems

Acclimate it, leave end gaps, step #2; refasten sub-floor, as said- step #3; no glue for certain sheet goods, step #4; Table #2 for fastener length, offset all joints. http://www.apa-europe.org/Languages/English/PDF/R340G.pdf

Gary


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