# white paint turning yellow



## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Yup
Lack of sunlight will cause oil paints yellow


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

Yep i concur, Oil paint will yellow in dark places at a much quicker rate than where sunlight hits. I was in a house a couple of months ago that we ran oil in (stopped running oil a couple of years ago) and the trim looked great. Yet if i would of opened the closet door it no doubt would of been yellowed. 
We used to have them shoot 2black at the paint store to slow the yellowing. 
So closets, baths, anywhere that does not get sunlight will yellow.


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## victor (Jan 14, 2007)

Workaholic what do you meen by:

We used to have them shoot 2black at the paint store to slow the yellowing.

I live in Holland so english is not my first language.

Victor


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

I mean that we had the paintstore shoot a little bit of black in the bright white. It did not take from the color at all. 2black is just that. These days we are running manor hall high gloss waterborn, and we are going L2 which is 2shots of brown. It just gives it a bit more body to the paint for better coverage. Some bright whites tend to be a bit transparent.


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## tverhoef (Feb 24, 2008)

its the tint that the paint store is putting in the paint to slow the yellowing


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## spraygunn (Nov 14, 2010)

Hey SLM,

Good find. How did you come by that article?

Steve
www.handpaintedbysteve.com


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## courtroom74 (Jul 6, 2012)

Hi there,

I'm not certain abiut the sunlight and/or mix in the paint.
I painted my trim and doors on all of the bedrooms (bedroom, bath, closet) as well as halway closets. I noticed, the frame is not yellow but the door is. Any suggestions as of why aside from sunlight or paint?

Thanks in advance.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

It is the paint. Bet it was an oil finish , right? I have had times that you couldn't touch up an oil enamel 3 months after applied- out of the same can.

It is the downside of oil , and one of the selling points of the newer "non- yellowing" waterbornes.


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## courtroom74 (Jul 6, 2012)

Brushjockey said:


> It is the paint. Bet it was an oil finish , right? I have had times that you couldn't touch up an oil enamel 3 months after applied- out of the same can.
> 
> It is the downside of oil , and one of the selling points of the newer "non- yellowing" waterbornes.


Well, the paint is new, yes and it's oil base. It's bright white and we painted over the old oil based paint on the door, door frame (jam) and baseboard trim. The only place turned yellow are the doors! So that is still the paint? If so, how do one mitigate the issue?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Oil does that- some more than others. What exactly are you using?

I already gave the best answer- but now that you have it lets look at more info.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

in what post did you give the best answer?:laughing:


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

The one above the one that he re asked it..


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

:huhh..i see


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Here- let me help-- waterbornes don't yellow...

Now?


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

:brows:


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

I nailed this thread five years ago. lol.


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*Cleaning before painting trim?*

Reading through this thread, and just wanted to clarify:
We have ALOT of trim to repaint in a whole house remodel project.
Here's what I'm doing:
1.)Trim has been taken down.
2.) Loosen dirt with a steamer
3.) Wipe off 2X with a strong ammonia & water solution
4.) Wipe off with plain water
5.) Prime with Gripper
6.)Finish with 2 coats satin Muralo waterborne (airless sprayer)

Will the ammonia solution cause any problems? 
Do we need to sand between the primer & 1st coat or between the 1st and 2nd coat of Muralo?

Thanks!!:001_unsure:


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

It used to be that oil finishes gave a superior finish to waterbased enamels but I am not sure any more. 100 percent acrylics will certainly hold their color and would certainly be an answer to the inside of closets even if you wanted to stick with oil on trim elsewhere. 

I used less and less oil toward the end. I would clean and scruff oil finishes, apply an alkyd primer/underlay and then finish with nice quality acrylic semi-gloss. I added Floetrol and believe I achieved the same surface as I could with oil. Of course you have to work a little faster with acrylics but with practice that is no biggy.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

0'mike said:


> Grand pappy always said when putting on underwear remember "Yellow in the front Brown in the back"


Unless you wear the same pair for a number of days in a row. Then you want to alternate between front and back and inside out for a full four days before spraying with Febreeze. You should not have to wash 100 percent cotton underwear more than once every month or so.:thumbsup:


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

nm...


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

nm...


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

nm....


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*I'm Lost!?!*



JamesRW said:


> Reading through this thread, and just wanted to clarify:
> We have ALOT of trim to repaint in a whole house remodel project.
> Here's what I'm doing:
> 1.)Trim has been taken down.
> ...


I'm thinking my question has gotten lost in the "on-going discussion" - I appreciate any help or feedback...thanks!


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Couple of Q's back- 
why have you removed the trim?
There are better prep cleaners than ammonia- Krud Kutter, Soilex, TSP or TSP substitute. 
Steamer? Wow- they must really be bad. Might cause problems with the wood.
Gripper and Muralo sounds fine.


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> Couple of Q's back-
> why have you removed the trim?
> There are better prep cleaners than ammonia- Krud Kutter, Soilex, TSP or TSP substitute.
> Steamer? Wow- they must really be bad. Might cause problems with the wood.
> Gripper and Muralo sounds fine.


Umm - yeah...house was a bank repo (former NFL player and too much partying - who knows what all was on the walls, trim, etc. I'm steam cleaning everything! But we love the house!)

Ok, I can use another cleaner, no problem. 

Brushjockey, I see you are in MN - I should just hire you!!


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Im in S Mpls...

Also- Please answer why you removed the trim.. are you re rocking? 
This will be a lot of work to get to refit right.
And one thing not on your list is a light scuff sand before priming- , but if you are reapplying the trim you will have nail holes to fill, caulking- all sorts of stuff.


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*Overall...*

We removed the trim for a number of reasons - renovated 1 huge bathroom into 2, so new sheetrock there etc., we are increasing the size of what doorways we can, so we need to recut alot of the base (shorter), casing, et al.

Some of the trim was "damaged" - but between the renovation and other changes, we have enough to match (some closet pieces will be used and replaced with a more simple moulding.)

This is just one floor of a 3 floor project - we may or may not remove it in other rooms. This is where we saw most of the "abuse and neglect", so there was considerable sheetrock repair done in all of the rooms as well. It seemed the trim was in the way in most places.

We are planning to fill all nail holes, etc. It's ALOT of work, but we have quite a bit of experience and time...


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Actually sounds cool to a paint junky. Keep us informed ( with pics!) of your progress!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

You need to increase the size of the doorways that a football player lived in?

How big are you:huh::laughing:

you like a sumo wrestler?


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*Here's a few pics!*



Brushjockey said:


> Actually sounds cool to a paint junky. Keep us informed ( with pics!) of your progress!


:boat:


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*Ha ha!*



chrisn said:


> You need to increase the size of the doorways that a football player lived in?
> 
> How big are you:huh::laughing:
> 
> you like a sumo wrestler?


Good question!! It's a wonderful classic home - built mid-century with great bones! That being said - the doorways were "small" (28" bath, etc.). Don't know WHY the last owners skipped those "details" in their updates, but whatever! They did install ALL new windows (with a 20 yr. transferable warranty) and numerous other very pricey changes!
We are loving the challenge - and the views!


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Minnetonka?


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*No, much smaller lake!*



Brushjockey said:


> Minnetonka?


No, up north "a bit"! Just far enough out of the metro!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

JamesRW said:


> :boat:


 Don't let OSHA see that second pic:whistling2:


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*Ongoing project!!..*



Brushjockey said:


> Minnetonka?


To Brushjockey: I see you are online right now - need some expert advice if you please...

We are pluggin' away at our project (slowly!). Right now we're are trying to perfect HLVP spraying for doors and trim. Primer went very well today and the first coat of painting did also. But on the 2nd coat of paint we had numerous runs appear (did not seem to notice them until AFTER the spraying was done.)

Primer is 123 thinned at 10%, then doors sanded down before finish.
Finish coat is Muralo Satin, thinned at the company's recommended rate of 1/2 pint per gallon (with water). I think for the next set of doors we will back off the water some.

In the meantime, what is the BEST way to fix the places that have runs?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Depends how bad. Because they are fresh, they will probably be soft. 
I would carefully carve off as much as you can with a sharp putty knife, sand down what is left. If that is still noticeable I would spackle that with Elmers wood filler, sand and reprime the spot. 
Try lighter coats. That is the whole trick of spraying- enough but not too much. 
Keep equal distance from door for whole pass. Start before- end after. 
follow through.


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

*Thanks!*

Great - thanks! I also read that you can try to rub out the run with a clean rag and denatured alcohol...are you familiar with that method?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Ya- Denatured is a solvent for latex, might be worth a try.
I find solvent fixes often make a mess of the surrounding area too - I guess finesse is the key. 
Just took some runs out of a clients paint job using the above method.


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## JamesRW (Nov 18, 2011)

:clap::clap:We have FINALLY finished all the painting on this level of our project!
Thanks for everyone's advice and patience!

I have written a detailed account of our trial and error with the HVLP - hope it is helpful to someone.

Carpet goes in next week, and then I will put up a couple more pics.


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## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

Oil based paint tends to turn yellow after a certain time depending on what product you use. Also, when certain areas of the painted surface do not receive light they may turn yellow. Try to use superior quality paints that are specially formulated to prevent yellowing. 
Good Luck!

http://www.kdpaintingct.com


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