# wood always caught in the back of table saw throat plate.



## pman626 (Jun 28, 2016)

How do you guys deal with that stupid depressed metal piece in the rear of the throat plate?

Every time I push a piece through, it gets caught on that back edge (arrow point below). extremely annoying.

I can't raise the throat plate any higher, or else it will skew the wood being pushed through.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Get a piece of hardboard, and make a replacement throat piece.

That fits the space perfectly.


ED


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Set a straight edge on the table and figure out if the throat plate is bent/warped.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Use the allen screws in the corners to raise or lower the plate to where it is flush with the saw bed.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Flip it over on the table top to determine where it is outta flat. To make it flat, place it across a couple of 2x4 blocks spaced the right distance apart and with a mallet or hammer tap tap tap the humped up high portion that's between the blocks. Check progress or screw ups frequently.

Or send it to me and I'll do it for about $87 bucks.:vs_laugh:


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## pman626 (Jun 28, 2016)

The throat plate is flush with the table.

the plate is designed so that shiny metal piece in the rear is recessed below the rest of the throat plate. 
I dunno why they had to recess it for the kickback pawls to rest on


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I buy aftermarket nylon throat plates and allow the blade to cut its own track as I raise it through the new plate. Little to no trash beside the blade falls through. I am not advocating not using the anti kick pawls, but if that is the way that plate was designed, it is a poor design. Try an aftermarket plate. I think you will like it.


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## pman626 (Jun 28, 2016)

i don't use the pawls.

Are you guys saying your throat plates don't have a recessed area in the rear?

Check out the light below flush line. That's how recessed mine is.
And you can imagine how the wood hits the back edge.

Your factory plates aren't like this?



















The only workaround I have is to use a sheet of cardboard every time I make a cut, butted up against the fence, and covering the whole table, essentially making a zero clearance cardboard sheet.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Tell us what brand this thing is, that way we might be able to recommend a better aftermarket plate for it.

Aftermarket plates are usually premium units that work better than the mass produced factory ones.


ED


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

pman626 said:


> i don't use the pawls.
> 
> Are you guys saying your throat plates don't have a recessed area in the rear?
> 
> ...


Are you familiar with J B Weld?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Yeah, knowing your saw brand and model will help narrow it down, but in the meantime you could look on sites for a match, or google "table saw throat plates"

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Zero-Clearance-Table-Saw-Insert-for-Jet/H0632


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## pman626 (Jun 28, 2016)

it's a kobalt 1015, nearly identical to Delta 36-6022

Seems dewalt suffers the same recessed area ?










stupid design. Why can't they make the kickback plate perfectly flush with the rest of the throat plate.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

glue a spacer of some sort under the end and bring it up to the right level.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

> glue a spacer of some sort under the end and bring it up to the right level.


I agree. Best spacer is probably several layers of aluminum foil tape.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

I agree, shim that end up flush with the table, that sucker is WAY off.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

From what I can see there may be a problem with a shim. The portion he is describing is lower than the blue area and a shim will raise that above flush.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

These are the ones I buy. They seem to last a long time. I only use this for straight cuts. I replace the insert with a wider throat for bevel and dado cuts. https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cleara...4&sr=8-4&keywords=delta+zero+clearance+insert


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

I have a 20+-year-old Craftsman table saw that had a throat plate similar to yours in that is was a 1/8" steel plate.

I have since replaced it with a Leecraft zero clearance insert fitted with a Microjig splitter

This has significantly improved the ease of use and quality of cut on the saw.



















In this image, you can see them installed. (The push sticks I made myself)


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

SeniorSitizen said:


> From what I can see there may be a problem with a shim. The portion he is describing is lower than the blue area and a shim will raise that above flush.


I'm saying to shim the silver portion only, to make it flush with the blue throat plate which is flush with the table.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> I'm saying to shim the silver portion only, to make it flush with the blue throat plate which is flush with the table.


A good idea if I knew how it was made but I'm seeing a depression and that's why I mentioned filling that depression with J B weld to a level with the remainder of the plate.:biggrin2:


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

A bead of caulk or glue or? cover with shrink wrap and place the cover and clamp a flat board over it and allow to dry. remove shrink wrap when done.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

There's a lip that silver piece sits on, and screws on the opposite end that holds it in place, anything in that depressed area to raise it up i think would work.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Speaking of depression, that manufacturer's whole idea of throat plate design is rather *DEPRESSING!!!! :vs_mad:
*Hopefully the remainder of the saw doesn't follow that trend.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

AMEN to that.


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## KHouse75 (May 14, 2008)

Take a file and bevel the edge of the lip of the table saw a little until it no longer catches.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> Take a file


Holy crap, don't do that. Why ruin a perfectly good table when it can be remedied with different throat plates??


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## mschwartz (Sep 2, 2018)

Make a zero clearance throat plate for the saw.


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## KHouse75 (May 14, 2008)

I have a $3,000 cabinet table saw and it has a slight 45 degree bevel around the throat plate. Every table saw I have is slightly beveled. Even if you get the throat plate perfectly level with the top, unless it's zero clearance around the edges, wood can still catch on the sharp edge.

If it's not beveled already, someone messed up while making the saw or the manufacturer decided to save a few cents by skipping that step.


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