# 1999 Chevy Express van spark plugs



## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

Until I get to the end of this post, I'm not sure if it's a question or just a rant. But has anyone had the misfortune of trying to change spark plugs on a '99 Chevy Express 3500, with the 5.7L V8?

Is it even possible to do all 8 plugs with the engine still in the van and the body still on the frame? I finally managed to get the #8 plug out after a few hours of screwing around, but I haven't quite figured out how I'm going to put the new one in. #6 looks flat-out impossible, there's not enough clearance for a spark plug socket + ratchet between the plug and the edge of the engine well. And I also assume it's recessed into the heat shield just far enough to require an extension on the socket as well... Sorta makes me wonder why the spec'd a heat shield extending further than the length of a standard spark plug socket.

I thought #5-8 would be the easiest ones since they're "accessible" from inside the van. Instead it looks like #1-4 will be the easiest, since I "only" need to pull the front wheels off and remove the fender liners to get at them.

As usual, the GM Engineerrors also saw fit to make *everything* around the spark plugs razor-sharp. :cursing:

Any of you experienced knucklebusters have any tips and tricks for an amateur wrench-thrower like me?


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Lotsa beer and bandaids. If wife or kids around, hard hats and ear protection... for them. Sorry, couldn't help it.

Some jobs stink, no matter. Built on ball swivel sockets work well or I've used the external hex of a plug socket and wrench. Used combination of swivels extensions, sometimes no real easy way. Just take what you get with your swing and don't be tempted to speed things up by using an air ratchet.

Start plugs by hand. I use an old boot and get right in there. Works much better than a length of heater hose and you won't bend an electrode.

Don't forget the dielectric grease.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

Believe me, I've already tried all the magic words, in about 5 languages. Including one I made up on the spot when the web of my thumb was pinched between the ratchet handle and the edge of the floor.

This, though, might be the inspiration I needed:


47_47 said:


> Some jobs stink, no matter. Built on ball swivel sockets work well or I've used the external hex of a plug socket and wrench. Used combination of swivels extensions, sometimes no real easy way. Just take what you get with your swing and don't be tempted to speed things up by using an air ratchet.


I haven't tried it yet, but if I've got enough room to get a regular socket over the hex on the spark plug socket, it'd probably give me the right length to clear the heat shield and get my ratchet on there. A great "duh" moment that I just needed someone else to point out to me.


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## paintdrying (Jul 13, 2012)

my 2006 with a 5.3 is in line to have the plugs and wires changed this weekend. I have a friend coming by that has done them before. He said they are possible to do. 
Their is a shop in Detroit that will do them for 100 dollars if I buy the plugs. I do not trust anyone to work on my van anymore. I had the astro van plugs before, and I figured out that the heat shield moved a bit so I could get the plug in. I also attach a rubber hose to the spark plug to get it started.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

Ugh, yeah I've done the Astro too. Wires only, and I still ended up leaving the #1 wire for my mechanic to deal with.


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## Marqed97 (Mar 19, 2011)

A pain but doable. The first shop I worked in, we had a local rent-a-cop outfit that had 6 Astro Vans and 2 Full sized vans. I owned an Astro for a few years as well. 

Once the doghouse was off, it wasn't too bad. Still worse than other vehicles, though. Pulling engines out the front on the full size vans was a job I hated. The Astro's weren't too bad as you simply dropped the engine and tranny/t-case out the bottom still mounted on the front sub-frame, and let it sit on jack stands while lifting the body up and away with a hoist. 

I always liked to use a special Snap-On low profile swivel spark plug socket on those. I've also seen people buy 'shorty plugs' from the performance magazines...though I'm dubious as to their reliability or how much of a difference it makes.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

I think once I get back to it I'll probably get it by stacking another standard length socket on top of the spark plug socket. Should have the same effect as about a 1.5 inch extension, which is what I seem to need to clear the heat shield. Can't use any of my regular 3" extensions since they cause the ratchet and floor to try to occupy the same place at the same time.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Sounds a lot like my 1994 Camaro Z28. What a nightmare. The first time I changed plugs it took me 8 hours. Had to drop the y-pipe to get the rear ones and #2 in the front alone took 2 or 3 hours of experimentation. You can't see or even touch that plug so it is a trial and error game to see what tools can get in there and still be operable.

Then later I swapped the cam to a Corvette LT-4 cam and new Optispark and even with all that disassembly I still couldn't see how on earth I could replace the spark plug wires...so I gave up and left in the OEMs.

Not sure what GM was thinking when they designed these things.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

This thread is going to go off the rails, since it's much more fun to gripe about cars than to work on them.

My Grand Prix was kind of a pain too, you had to unbolt the front engine struts and use a prybar to rotate the entire engine forward a bit. Even then, getting the back 3 plugs was tricky. And all the pointy little mounting studs coming through the firewall were very sharp, and positioned right where your hand would be on an average ratchet handle. I think GM engines run on blood and tears, and the engineers are well aware of it.


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

My wife got a free 92 Buick this summer, and I was dreading the plugs. Seems that 3300 V6 was one of the easier ones, I didn't have a problem at all.


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## paintdrying (Jul 13, 2012)

Got the plugs and wires done yesterday. Passenger side was a little easier than drivers side. Total job took three and a half hours.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

Well, I've had some progress:

Got all 4 rear spark plugs changed, slipping a 3/4" socket over the hex on the spark plug socket was exactly what I needed to get the right length to clear the heat shield.

Got all 4 rear spark plug wires changed, that part wasn't too bad at all. Had to gently use a prybar to pull off the old wires and press on the new, but it worked out.

Made a suspiciously sledgehammer shaped dent in the hood, after beating the hell out of the right front wheel for a half hour trying to get it off the hub. It's stuck hard. I just had that wheel off about 3 weeks ago to change the wheel bearings, so I don't get it. I even cleaned and greased up the inside of the wheel flange and the outside of the hub.

I seem to be pretty well stuck, at this point. Last time, to get the wheel off, I backed off the lug nuts a little bit and then drove it forward and back a few feet, slamming on the brakes and cranking the steering wheel back and forth. This time, however, I've already popped the spark plug wires off the #3 and #4 plug, and I don't think I can put them back on without removing the wheels first.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

There's gotta be some kind of tool for pulling these wheels off, right? My searches have only found some sort of truck wheel puller that costs around $400..

I'm about ready to drill and tap some holes in the wheels and run some heavy bolts in to force it off..


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Penetrating oil through the lugs holes and around the hub. Drive van to a shop and pay them to remove. Safety first. I have loosened, but not totally removed, the lugs and hit the rubber sidewall of the tire with a bfh or an old torsion bar. I have also had to loosen each lug about two turns and drive the car and make very sharp low speed turns (both directions) and pop the rim from the rotor.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

Aye. I've done the penetrating oil, and I've done the beat the  out of it with a 2-pounder. Might try the torch next.

I definitely should not have popped the #3 and #4 plug wires off the plugs until I was sure I was going to be able to get the wheels off. I thought for sure the passenger side wheel would come right off, since I just took it off like a month ago and greased everything up. Heck, last year I took all four wheels off to inspect the brakes, and they all popped right off the hubs without any effort at all.

I've got a Tires Plus credit card, so I might just end up getting a buddy with a truck to help me pull it over there and let them deal with it.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Not too keen on the heat, especially with the penetrating oil and grease there. Use caution to avoid a flare up.

Next time ditch the grease. It has heated up and becomes sticky and is causing the hard take-off. You can put on a very small amount of never-seize. Don't glob it on, that stuff gets all over.


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## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

Progress. I managed to get the van started, even though it seemed to be running on 6 cylinders. Drove it back and forth turning the wheels and stomping the brakes with the lug nuts backed off a little. That got the wheel loose. Once the wheel was off, it's actually easier to do the front plugs than it was to do the rear. It's a nice straight shot through the wheel well.

For your amusement, attached is a picture of the required tool.


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