# Fascia on to of subfascia



## kdthomas (Oct 27, 2009)

Okay so I am building a 16x24 cabin in the boonies. All of the major framing is done, roof sheathing is up.

So the rafter tails have a 12" overhang, roof is a 5-pitch. I ran 2x8 subfascia boards through the table saw to "slope" the top edge so that it aligns with the roof pitch. That's all good. The faces of the rafter tails are about 6"

Before I put the drip edge on though, I think I need to decide on fascia. I'm told that 1x8 cedar is the very best choice, followed by 1x8 pine, followed by the 8x1/4 in hardie board stuff

Is the cedar really worth paying almost double the pine price? Is the hardie stuff sufficient? I want it to last but I don't want to go nuts with the money. In other words I'll spend the extra money ... if it truly is worth it.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

You have your subfascia on so that is good. Cedar is good, but IMO, not worth the $$. If you go with pine, be sure to prime/paint all sides before installation to help keep water damage at bay.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

While still in the planning stage you may want to consider the difference in cost of a wood fascia that will always need maintenance or the 2 x sub fascia covered with Aluminum. The cost may not be all that much difference for a maintenance free fascia. The 1x6 fascia cover, made from 12" gutter coil stock and nailed to the sheathing only, has been on this house for 34 years and doing well with a 1/2" drip edge below the wood.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

As mentioned pine is fine but comes with some maintenance....periodic painting. Aluminum over pine as SS said solves that. But I guess one needs to crunch the numbers of aluminum over pine vs cedar. 
And I suppose there is a potential aesthetic issue with aluminum if the thought bothers you.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

On gutter side, gutter will cover anything you can see, so use aluminum as advised. Crimping the edge a little makes for very nice finished line. Bend it 90 deg to cover the 2x and some of the soffit material joint. Overlap with drip edge. Use the money where it will be seen such as gable trim. I would think hardiplank cover would be least maintenance, esp factory painted. If cedar, use spacer behind. Never pine. Pine was used because there was no other choice and cedar didn't take well to paint. But anecdotally, I used pine for window trim (homedepot knot free grade), double oil based primer and double finish semi gloss, front and back and caulk seal the cut ends, window drip edge and somewhat protected by foot roof overhang, west facing, lasted at least 10 yrs and still in good condition, color white, NJ. Actually, if your location is covered by trees, not drying out well, I would spend some money and use synthetic.


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## kdthomas (Oct 27, 2009)

SeniorSitizen said:


> ... or the 2 x sub fascia covered with Aluminum.





carpdad said:


> On gutter side, gutter will cover anything you can see, so use aluminum as advised. Actually, if your location is covered by trees, not drying out well, I would spend some money and use synthetic.


I'm hearing votes for aluminum, and I'm forced to agree. No plans for gutters at first, but definitely a planned add-on. And yes, there are plenty of 20-30' trees around, but I cut most of them back.

I've looked for the aluminum stuff at the big box stores, but can't seem to find it.

*
Any ideas where to go to get it?
Would 6-in metal roof flashing do the job?
*Don't care a whole heck of a lot about aesthetics, mostly interested in the stuff *lasting*


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

when it comes to gutters I once saw a guys house in the boonies where he shot the gutters 5-6 feet past the roof line and left them open....no end caps no downspouts. It was a long time ago and I think he had some sort of pea gravel for erosion and the water flowed away from his house but it was a long time ago so my memory of the details is hazy.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

craig11152 said:


> when it comes to gutters I once saw a guys house in the boonies where he shot the gutters 5-6 feet past the roof line and left them open....no end caps no downspouts. It was a long time ago and I think he had some sort of pea gravel for erosion and the water flowed away from his house but it was a long time ago so my memory of the details is hazy.


Sounds like a "ground gutter" system. It's a lot like a french drain with the pipe buried under the gravel to run the water away. It works well in the woods where the gutters would get clogged up quickly.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

If you decide to go with pine, look your lumber over carefully especially if - _plain sawed - _is all that's available or all you can afford or desire to spend.

In the picture of this -_ plain sawed_ - lumber we can see by the growth rings the top of that board was the outside of the tree and that surface should go out for painting. All too often that piece is installed with the inner side out and no manufacturer's best paint will stay when the grain decides to lift.

Poplar is one of the most paintable wood species and with that choose carefully because of warping.

Some of today's lumber is so pathetic if we look at one end of a board then at the other end the growth rings will be opposite. That's caused from mills sawing tooth pick size trees where the sawyer has to cross center line to get a long board.


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## kdthomas (Oct 27, 2009)

I think I've decided on the 1x8 cedar, after putting a couple coats of clear Thompson's water-seal on both sides. it's $$$, but I'm told it's the most rot-resistant, and I can't seem to find the purpose-built aluminum stuff.

I think I'll be happy with it.

Thanks to everyone for the guidance!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

kdthomas said:


> I think I've decided on the 1x8 cedar, after putting a couple coats of clear Thompson's water-seal on both sides. it's $$$, but I'm told it's the most rot-resistant, and I can't seem to find the purpose-built aluminum stuff.
> 
> I think I'll be happy with it.
> 
> Thanks to everyone for the guidance!


So after it is done, keep an eye out for a local sheet metal shop, so the next time you can get aluminum bent to fit.:vs_cool:


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

With planning, sheet metal brake is not that expensive to rent and make all you need in one day. Make at least one extra for each side. 6" overlaps without special caulking in-between. I made mine 7' each and slipped them under the drip edge. Aluminum nails about an inch from bottom edge, not into the overlap, 3 nails each length. Since looks isn't a concern, sheetmetal is the cheapest. On gable end, my rake trim was 2x6, vinyl siding j channel under 2x6 and sheet was bent z shape so that bottom flange overlapped the j channel. Always a physical drainage plane.
Cedar is beautiful lumber but need a constant maintenance. Clear coat is not long term finish and will turn gray in a few years.


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## badtheba (Jul 3, 2011)

We get the aluminum stock in rolls from a metal roofing supply company. The one nearest us with the best prices is run by the Amish and the stuff can't be beat. For the shed I recently added on to I got all the facia, soffit, corner trim, etc. in the same color as the roof. Any metal roofing company should be able to get you the right stuff.

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## badtheba (Jul 3, 2011)

Oh, one other thing... I used colored aluminum to cover a treated rim board on a walk out basement wall at my parents. Worked great until we used salt pucks tossed on the roof to melt ice... It ate through the top surface of the "flashing" I had made.

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