# Cheap table saw vs A circular saw



## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

I've always heard told that a table saw is one of the first tools a guy should buy. 

I have the Ridgid contractor table saw and I love it. It's not nearly as nice as a cabinet saw, but if you need to rip something to width there's no way I can do that with a circular saw.

It's a little tough to rip a full sheet of plywood by myself on it. So I still use my circular saw for that type of thing. Heck last time I had my Dad helping me and it was still easier to use the circular saw for those full length rips. 

But if you need a 2-5/8" width board??? :smile:


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## HenryMac (Sep 12, 2018)

*Another Option: RAS*

As an alternative look for a used radial arm saw.

Folks are scared of them which means you can often find really good quality at very reasonable prices.

I have a 1940's era DeWalt that my Grandfather bought new back in the day. It makes cabinet quality cuts.

I too have a circular saw (Makita) and a miter saw (Hitachi)... with these 3 you can tackle most projects.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

@HenryMac , you read my mind, The fence is moveable so you can rip plywood down the middle.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Check out this saw:
This is the best buy I have seen yet for a job site saw. I had one of these and gave over $500 for it, it will beat a craftsman and will not bog down, of all these saw I would go with this one:

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/tls/d/makita-table-saw/6718568797.html


I am not a fan of Craftsman but it would be better than what you have now. 
https://nwga.craigslist.org/tls/d/sears-craftsman-table-saw/6688112394.html

This one is a better saw but now where as good as the Makita:
https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/d/craftsman-12-table-saw/6726380076.html

A little higher but better yet:
https://chattanooga.craigslist.org/tls/d/dewalt-dw746-10table-saw/6700431140.html

Not as good but still a fairly good saw:
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/d/new-ridgid-heavy-duty-10/6726085760.html

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/tls/d/dewalt-10-table-saw-stand/6718092948.html

This looks pretty good, if I could sell my Unisaw, I would be looking at this one.
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/tls/d/dewalt-10-table-saw-no-stand/6718987555.html

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/d/ridgid-rtable-saw-with-stand/6723844699.html

Any way, there are tons of saws around you, many more if you want to look in North GA Craigslist.


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## NGLogik (Aug 23, 2018)

Thanks for all the advice!! I’m looking into everything now! 
@HenryMac I too have the hitachi miter that I like a lot. I’ll look into that radial arm saw 


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

If I were in your shoes I'd be looking for a pre-owned Rockwell or Delta Mod. 10 contractor saw for about $200-$250 price range. In the meantime, while looking, make yourself 3 saw guides for your Makita. A 8 ft., 4 ft. and a 12 inch. You'll wish you made the guides a long time ago.


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## NGLogik (Aug 23, 2018)

Thank you, yes I’m already looking into doing some guides lol. Better make them now when I need them.

Also if anyone is wondering how I make big rips with a circular saw... I do all my work with my girlfriend so I always have a helper. I can see why people are wondering how I cut ply with a circular saw  




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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ripping little stuff with a skill saw is tricky, I have drilled hole in the table and screwed a 2x2 fence under it. I did that to remove a corner out of a 1 1/2" turned spindle one time.


If you lived closer I would make you a deal, I have a garage full of tools that have been sitting for 15 years.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Your girlfriend will love you to death when all her job consists of is to put the guide edge on the pencil mark when using the long guide and possibly clamp it with a Quick Grip clamp.


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## NGLogik (Aug 23, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> ripping little stuff with a skill saw is tricky, I have drilled hole in the table and screwed a 2x2 fence under it. I did that to remove a corner out of a 1 1/2" turned spindle one time.
> 
> 
> If you lived closer I would make you a deal, I have a garage full of tools that have been sitting for 15 years.




Yes the small stuff is tricky... I did the exact same thing. I have all sorts of jigs/rigs I built to get me by. It all gets the job done but can get a bit time consuming. 

I’m 28 and still a hobbyist. For the first time in my life I’ve built a collection of quality tools that’s I’m very happy and proud of... I just never thought woodworking was something I was ever interested in until I built my first set of cabinets...

Things I’m missing...

Planer
Jointer
Bisquit joiner
Router table 
Table saw
@SeniorSitizen haha I think she wants that table saw more than I do!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

NGLogik said:


> Yes the small stuff is tricky... I did the exact same thing. I have all sorts of jigs/rigs I built to get me by. It all gets the job done but can get a bit time consuming.
> 
> I’m 28 and still a hobbyist. For the first time in my life I’ve built a collection of quality tools that’s I’m very happy and proud of... I just never thought woodworking was something I was ever interested in until I built my first set of cabinets...
> 
> ...


 don't forget the sanders. 
Build your own router table


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Since we are on the topic of ripping sheets. I also have the 10" Ridgid job site portable, probably 5+ years now. Fantastic saw. If I am ripping sheets down the middle or close to center I can run them thru my self by feeding in the first half, letting it set there while I walk around to the back and pull thru the last half. I just pull them right off the back and let them hit the ground evenly. Obviously not making cabinet panels, but works fine for most sheathing jobs.
Another way I rip sheets, (I have 5 or 6 sets of saw horses) is to toss the sheet on the grass, if available. Set the blade about 1/2" to the underside of the sheet and cut. It's just fast and convenient. No setting up the horses, or holding the cut pcs, the entire sheet is supported evenly. The grass lifts the panel up enough to stay out of dirt.
I have never wasted blade doing this. But again these are quick and dirty chalk line cuts on sheathing, not cabinet panels.


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## NGLogik (Aug 23, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> don't forget the sanders.
> Build your own router table




Check... finish and variable speed orbital sander. Both makita. Can’t go back to block sanding ever again. Never thought I could turn wood into glass  


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

NGLogik said:


> Check... finish and variable speed orbital sander. Both makita. Can’t go back to block sanding ever again. Never thought I could turn wood into glass
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 That's just for finishing at one time I had about 20 sanders, all did different jobs.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> If you lived closer I would make you a deal, I have a garage full of tools that have been sitting for 15 years.





Its something in the DNA that prevents you from parting with any tool. I am sure I will be 6ft under before I let one go!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Yodaman said:


> Its something in the DNA that prevents you from parting with any tool. I am sure I will be 6ft under before I let one go!


 For 10 years I have been thinking of taking pictures and putting them up for sale, I will get to it one day.:biggrin2:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Nealtw said:


> For 10 years I have been thinking of taking pictures and putting them up for sale, I will get to it one day.:biggrin2:


Same here, I have a shop full of tools I will never use again, but there are some tools I just can't let go of. I want to keep just enough tools to make repairs and build a little something if I want to.


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

*Re: Another Option: RAS*



HenryMac said:


> As an alternative look for a used radial arm saw.
> 
> Folks are scared of them which means you can often find really good quality at very reasonable prices.
> 
> ...


I have done woodworking (very hobbyist level) for 25 or 30 years now and the only tool I have that scares me is my RAS. I got it from my wife's grandfather, since he hadn't used it since the 70's. 

It's fine for cross cuts but almost dangerous to rip with. Since the blade is on top and spins the opposite way, it sucks the wood in. I know you can remove the guard and do in the other direction, but then it kicks like a rented mule. 

If he already has a miter I'd definitely put the money to a table saw. :smile:


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

*Re: Another Option: RAS*



NickTheGreat said:


> I have done woodworking (very hobbyist level) for 25 or 30 years now and the only tool I have that scares me is my RAS. I got it from my wife's grandfather, since he hadn't used it since the 70's.
> 
> It's fine for cross cuts but almost dangerous to rip with. Since the blade is on top and spins the opposite way, it sucks the wood in. I know you can remove the guard and do in the other direction, but then it kicks like a rented mule.
> 
> If he already has a miter I'd definitely put the money to a table saw. :smile:


 Take the guard off and do what?? If you can see the handle while you are ripping you are going to kill someone.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Stop this video at 154 and see the pictures for ripping.
https://www.google.ca/search?ei=H-X...0k1.0.ik5Ty30UhU8#kpvalbx=1&spf=1539892538661


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

I've actually seen that video before. And he actually talks about the saw pulling the wood in. And why it's better to push into the blade, like you'd expect. 

On my RAS there's a blade guard that about has to come off to push the wood into the blade. Which honestly, it's kinda in the way all the time anyways.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How low are you cranking the blade down? Some guards have a tail piece that you lower down. 
Mine is like that craftsman, you lower the guard in the back push end to protect your fingers and drop the dogs in the front to stop it from kicking back.


I went the wrong way with my very first cut and stuck a piece of oak in my neighbours stucco 30 ft away.


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## HenryMac (Sep 12, 2018)

*Re: Another Option: RAS*



NickTheGreat said:


> I know you can remove the guard and do in the other direction, but then it kicks like a rented mule.


Wow, really? Try reading the instruction manual. 

The biggest problem with a radial arm saw is folks don't know how to follow directions.



Nealtw said:


> ...you lower the guard in the back push end to protect your fingers and drop the dogs in the front to stop it from kicking back..


Lowering it in the back keeps the wood from riding up the blade... the dogs in the front prevent the wood from being pulled backwards.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I would not recommend doing what that man does at 2:14 into the vid. Reaches around the blade to complete the cut. That cut can be made with a portable saw and straight edge quicker and safer than he can get his RAS set up.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> I would not recommend doing what that man does at 2:14 into the vid. Reaches around the blade to complete the cut. That cut can be made with a portable saw and straight edge quicker and safer than he can get his RAS set up.


 When you have it set up and get past the learning curve, speed is not the problem, they are slick. You can put a drill chuck on the back too.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Don't overlook the safer aspect. The rotation of that blade will pull his hand through in a split second and he has a leather glove to protect from splinters? Wow!! 

You just won't find this old man in the ER telling that he thought he was beyond the learning curve ripping with a RAS.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Don't overlook the safer aspect. The rotation of that blade will pull his hand through in a split second and he has a leather glove to protect from splinters? Wow!!
> 
> You just won't find this old man in the ER telling that he thought he was beyond the learning curve ripping with a RAS.


 I agree the gloves are scary.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)




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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Those little portable table saws are great for contractors. I own several, but for a wood shop youll want a decent cabinet grade saw. Grizzly, Powermatic, Delta, etc. There are a bunch of companies who make great shop saws. Craigslist is full of used cabinet grade table saws for a fraction of the cost of a new saw. Delta's Contractors saw (weird name. Its actually a shop grade saw and not a portable contracting type saw) is a good starting point. You may need an upgraded fence and I'd build a crosscut sled and an out feed table, but you'll still be under the cost of buying new and you'll have a much better tool than any of the bench top models.


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## PPBART (Nov 11, 2011)

Davejss said:


> ...Delta's Contractors saw (weird name. Its actually a shop grade saw and not a portable contracting type saw) is a good starting point...


I've got a 10" Delta that's about 10 yrs old now. It's a good saw and handles anything I push through, but the fence and mitre gauge are the weak points. Best accessory I ever added has been an accurate sled. If the OP could find one I would recommend buying.


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## NotYerUncleBob2 (Dec 29, 2017)

Bosch TS 4000 series are pretty nice. Bigger and more capable than most contractor saws and affordable. 
For ripping sheets with a circular saw, get a 4x8' sheet of foam insulation (not metal faced obv) and cut your sheets over that. Makes a nice level support without damaging the blade.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Yodaman said:


> Another way I rip sheets, (I have 5 or 6 sets of saw horses) is to toss the sheet on the grass, if available. Set the blade about 1/2" to the underside of the sheet and cut. It's just fast and convenient. No setting up the horses, or holding the cut pcs, the entire sheet is supported evenly. The grass lifts the panel up enough to stay out of dirt.
> I have never wasted blade doing this. But again these are quick and dirty chalk line cuts on sheathing, not cabinet panels.


If I had a girlfriend in her 20's I'd try that. If you're thinking certain things let me set everyone straight. Her sole purpose would be to help me get up off the grass.:vs_mad:


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## Photobug (Jun 25, 2017)

I picked up a used Ridgid table saw for about $200, used it for about 7 years and sold it for the same. You can get a lot more precision from a decent table saw. An expensive table saw is just easier to use.

The cheapest tool you can find will almost always be a disappointment and waste of money.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

NGLogik said:


> I have a really nice miter saw, that I use a lot along with a makita circular saw... I purchased a cheapo ryobi table which was a mistake.
> 
> I still make better rip cuts with my makita circular saw. I use my speed square and a clamp to make small cuts and for big plywood rips or larger items I use a long level, use my framing square to offset it by 1-1/2” and than clamp each side...
> 
> ...


Look on craigslist for a table saw. Then, make sure you can find a manual for it on-line. If the saw has good reviews - buy it, then go through the entire set up procedure as you clean it up and learn how to operate it well.

Always have two blades - one on the saw and a sharp one as a spare.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I don't really see this as a either or question as the OP framed it. I could not imagine not having both. Good used saws at half the new price is better than not having at all.


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