# How to make basement window sills + wall shelves



## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Are you using this as a bench with built in shelves?


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## braverichard (Feb 12, 2010)

No, just basically the bench on there where you can put stuff like pictures, etc. Don't want to crowd up the open feel of the room with built in shelves, at least not yet. :wink:


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## braverichard (Feb 12, 2010)

I guess you could think of it as a window bench seat with no cushions however on two of the windows the bottom of the window is too high (5 feet) for anyone to ever really sit on it. The other two windows, one of which is pictured here, will definitely be sat on at one point or another because the bench would be just 31 inches above the floor.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Well what you can do is make the book shelves high or level with the window sill and put a bench in the center which would be lower so you can sit on it and give it a top so you can also use it for storage.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

If it all paints you can have a seam in the window sill that’s invisible, just fill and sand the joint.


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## braverichard (Feb 12, 2010)

epson said:


> Well what you can do is make the book shelves high or level with the window sill and put a bench in the center which would be lower so you can sit on it and give it a top so you can also use it for storage.


I don't understand... I'm not building book shelves. And I'm not making them different levels. I just need one bench there that is part of the window sill.



kwikfishron said:


> If it all paints you can have a seam in the window sill that’s invisible, just fill and sand the joint.


Ok so if the seam can be filled and sanded so it is smooth and not visible, which wood should I use? No more than 1 inch thick please, thanks. Is the information I received on pine being a soft wood that will eventually be bent out of shape by people sitting on it accurate?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Pine isn’t going to bend out of shape if properly secured to a solid base. 

In Oregon I’d be using Hemlock for painted trim because it’s abundant here. In Kansas Pine is about all I can get without special order hassles. You could use ¾” AC plywood and face the grain edge with a piece of trim.

It’s all going to paint so if you take the time to fill and sand all imperfections you can make anything look like one peice of wood.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Be sure to add a 1" layer of EXP on the bare concrete top along with a sill sealer for a thermal and capillary break. Even p.t. wood will suck the moisture out of the concrete water reservoir wall: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ressure-treated-sill-plates-and-building-code Cut your upper wall drywall 1/2" so it is not in contact with the concrete.

Be safe, Gary


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

Pine will work fine for your needs. Yes, it's soft, but unless you plan on banging beer bottles on it or keying it, it won't dent (and nobody should sit on it). Cut your joints on a 45 degree bevel (when looking out the window at the shelf level, the cut line will be on a 45 deg angle). It helps to hide the joint on the top side. Some people like to caulk the joint. I prefer to hit it with spackle and sand. Try to but some sort of profile on the outside edge for looks. If you have a router, then an ogee, cove, or bead & cove will work. If you don;t have one, then run it down a table saw to chamfer the top, bottom, or both.


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## braverichard (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks for the ideas guys, all great. To address specific ideas:



Capillary break on concrete is already there; concrete has been sealed with drylok and there will be pressure treated 2 x 4s on the concrete held by anchors. Then a sheet of 1/2" drywall on top of the 2 x 4s then the wood shelf.
I am gravitating towards using pine for the really high shelves and routing the edges for some fancy look and then going with BC plywood for the lower shelves because even though I will say "do not sit on it," everyone that has come to see the basement so far just naturally goes and sits on those shelves. Think about it: they are the perfect height and are right by windows so sitting there and looking out and enjoying the view (woods and a small stream) only comes naturally! So I know for a fact I can never stop people from sitting there, therefore I'll go with 3/4" BC plywood which can take the beating and put a trim piece at the edge to hide the layers in the wood.
I've long been concerned about the seam but from what you guys have said, it looks like I can cover it well. I just have to take my time and fill and sand till it is smooth before priming and painting.


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## braverichard (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks to all who chimed in. Decided to do 3/4" MDF as it is hard as hell. I understand water is its enemy however after it is primed and shot up with two coats of paint I'm sure it won't be an issue - unless of course you flood the whole freaking place in which case nothing will survive. With the edges routed, it looks really good. Painting stage now. :thumbsup:


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

i likey:thumbup:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Looks like one piece of wood to me.

Good job.:thumbsup:


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

looks good. did you prime/seal the back side?


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## braverichard (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks guys, didn't prime or seal the backside unfortunately, totally overlooked that. However, the backside is sitting on top of wood that's already sealed, the wood of which is sitting on top of concrete that's also sealed, so there really shouldn't be a moisture concern from the backside. If I could do it again I would have sealed that back side however.


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