# Re Wallpapering : Do I need to remove old adhesive?



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

It won't help you -
You want to get a good foundation for your new paper to hang on. 
And hanging on top of old glue is really a hassle- 
You don't need to get it off to the degree of painting, but i usually do and then reprime. Often the wall ( if it's sheetrock) gets weakened by stripping, and you want to be able to remove your new paper in say 15 years.


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Brushjockey is right...........it's a HUGE hassle going over top of old adhesive. Sometimes it literally turns to mud when reactivated. Then all that mud oozes out of your seams and discolors your expensive paper, drips on your woodwork, and pools on your carpet. Plus you want to be able to adjust and move your paper to get it in place and that extra layer of adhesive makes it very difficult to do. I always get as much of the old off as possible and then I prime with SW's Pre-wallpaper primer.......gives you a sealed, sized, and perfectly smooth surface upon which to work. You can cheat and skip some of these steps, but, you pay a huge price for it in the long run.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Brushjockey said:


> It won't help you -
> You want to get a good foundation for your new paper to hang on.
> And hanging on top of old glue is really a hassle-
> You don't need to get it off to the degree of painting, but i usually do and then reprime. Often the wall ( if it's sheetrock) gets weakened by stripping, and you want to be able to remove your new paper in say 15 years.


 
really?


----------



## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Gymschu said:


> Brushjockey is right...........it's a HUGE hassle going over top of old adhesive. Sometimes it literally turns to mud when reactivated. Then all that mud oozes out of your seams and discolors your expensive paper, drips on your woodwork, and pools on your carpet. Plus you want to be able to adjust and move your paper to get it in place and that extra layer of adhesive makes it very difficult to do. I always get as much of the old off as possible and then I prime with SW's Pre-wallpaper primer.......gives you a sealed, sized, and perfectly smooth surface upon which to work. You can cheat and skip some of these steps, but, you pay a huge price for it in the long run.


Isn't that how "The Blob" started? 

Chrisn, I saw BJ's post last night, and was going to ask him if he's been properly deputized to discuss wallpaper:laughing:. 

OP, since I don't hang paper, I have nothing productive say, other than to follow these old timer's advice. I'm just teasing. You're from jersey shore, what parts?
Joe


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

jsheridan said:


> Isn't that how "The Blob" started?
> 
> Chrisn, I saw BJ's post last night, and was going to ask him if he's been properly deputized to discuss wallpaper:laughing:.
> 
> ...


Joe, Lanoka Harbor, right next to Forked River...or as they say in these parts...."Exit 74" lol


----------



## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

I'm exit 0, figuratively. Literally, I'm exit 1, but claim 0 status. The final destination. I'm in Villas, which is the western point, the bayside, of the triangle formed by Cape May, exit 0, and Wildwood, also exit 1.


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Hey, this weekend the wife and I will be in Ridgewood to celebrate her mom's 90th-- I'll wave!


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

jsheridan said:


> I'm exit 0, figuratively. Literally, I'm exit 1, but claim 0 status. The final destination. I'm in Villas, which is the western point, the bayside, of the triangle formed by Cape May, exit 0, and Wildwood, also exit 1.


oh, then you must surely know of the NJ State BBQ Championship in Anglesea/N. Wildwood. My favorite event of the summer. I judge the BBQ contest there. And afterwards, support the Anglesea Fire Department with the consumption of beer and souvenir beer cup...:icon_cool:


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

Hi Guys, 
I am pleased to say that all my old wallpaper adhesive (nod to chrisn) is cleaned off the walls (found hot water and vinegar with roller and spray bottle worked best), walls patched, and coated with a layer of GARDZ (was able to find in a paint store right here in town under my nose).

So I am no just about ready to start hanging my new textured paintable paper. Most sources Ive read say that after pre-pasted paper is wetted in the paper tray, to book it for few minute on the work table, then bring to the wall and hang and begin smoothing. 

However, the instructions on the roll of paper says to put in water for 10 minutes, then bring to wall and hang. (skipping the book step). What do you guys make of that? Im thinking I will start in a less noticeable area for my first few pieces and see how it goes....
joe


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

For what its worth- as a pro hanger I never use a flower tray soaker. I always roll on even water after cutting the sheet to size.
Booking gives the soak time. Different papers need-require different times. Some will adhere to themselves if booked for too long or not wet enough. Some will easily curl making booking tricky. Some rip very easily when wet.
This is where a bit of experience with hanging pays off.


----------



## Evstarr (Nov 15, 2011)

I would recommend that you let the manufacturer's instructions guide you on this.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

jombres said:


> Hi Guys,
> I am pleased to say that all my old wallpaper adhesive (nod to chrisn) is cleaned off the walls (found hot water and vinegar with roller and spray bottle worked best), walls patched, and coated with a layer of GARDZ (was able to find in a paint store right here in town under my nose).
> 
> So I am no just about ready to start hanging my new textured paintable paper. Most sources Ive read say that after pre-pasted paper is wetted in the paper tray, to book it for few minute on the work table, then bring to the wall and hang and begin smoothing.
> ...


 
Really?


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

chrisn said:


> Really?



OOOOPS.....sorry...that was supposed to be 10 SECONDS, not 10 minutes!:blush:

But 10 seconds seems rather brief to me...


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

No, that would be accurate.:laughing:


----------



## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Joe, that could have been a big OOOPPPS.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

I would bet good money that after 10 minutes soaking it would be wet toilet paper at best.:yes:


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

chrisn said:


> I would bet good money that after 10 minutes soaking it would be wet toilet paper at best.:yes:



HAHAHA.

I guess I suffered from Premature Post-alation lol

SHould have checked what it said before posting....but anyways...

Okay 10 secs dip of the strip, and hand with no booking....you ever see that before? Did it work out okay?


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Personally, I do not read the instructions, but in your'e case I would follow them and see how it works out. If it does not stick well, then book it for a couple minutes at most.


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

Hi Guys, I am sooo discouraged right now. Last night I started hanging my wallpaper, and followed the manufacturers instructions. I had two full sheets, plus a third cut and trimmed around the bow window. I came down this morning to the living room to find the seam on the first sheet pulling away. Im bringing photos of the paper plus the instructions (which state NOT to apply other paste to their product, as I think the store may suggest), to see what they say. 

I attached photos and a scan of instructions here. The only thing I did different from the instructions, were to book the paper only to make it easier to carry from the work table to the wall. I did not let the paper sit for any length of time. Sheets 2 and 3 appear to be nicely adhered, but the first one...pulling away. Makes me consider whether I should continue or not...

To recap.....my old paper pulled off the walls easily.....then I,
1. I used hot water and vinegar rolled onto the old paste to loosen it 
2. used scraper to remove loose paste, 
3. rinsed/washed walls with hot vinegar water,
4. did second rinse with fresh hot water and different sponge/bucket and allowed to dry
5. coated walls with Zinser Gardz and allowed to dry.


What could I have messed up?

Joe.....conscientious but discouraged....


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Did you apply anything as a primer except the Gardz?
Did you hang the paper directly over the Gardz?

What kind of paper is it exactly?


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

No, I didnt apply anything yo the wall other than the Gardz. 

The paper is paintable, textured paper, sold by Lowes, called Style Selections. It is a Venetian Plaster texture/pattern. Its made in the UK. Prior to purchasing it, I tried to find manufacturer instructions on a website, and the only sites that came up where it was mentioned were Lowes...so it must be their house brand.

The second sheet is from a second roll, and the third sheet (around the window) is from the same first roll as what came loose.

joe


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Well if I was doing it I would prime over the Gardz with a wall covering primer such as Romans ultra prime pro- 977 and most likely add some paste to the back also, but it is hard to say from here. Gardz will generally be all you need to hang over but the paper being from Lowes, who knows.


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

It is very hard to diagnose this way, but it does look like there wasn't enough adhesive, either didn't activate long enough or could add more.
When I do it i can feel how sticky it is, and if that feels enough for the paper.
If you're other sheets worked, think about why. Did you let them soak a bit longer- booked longer?
I also think the Gardz should be enough- I think the problem is with tack.
how are you pressing to wall? Using a plastic smoother, brush, your hand? Needs good even contact.


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

this morning before I headed out for the day, I lifted the edges and misted underneath the lifted paper with a mister spray bottle, and then pressed the paper down. I also noticed that the paper shrank I think a little, because the seams didnt match up like they did last night.

The girl at Lowes suggested seam sealer, or adding more paste, till I showed her the spot on the back of the instructions that says dont, lol.

I continued papering today and there was a time or too, that even with slow even pulling, I had some dry spots on the back of the paper, so using bright light and a glancing angle across the paper, misted those dry spots. That seemed to work for the most part the rest of the day, then at night, I saw a seam on a headed piece over the door way lifting up! I think what happened there, is maybe I butted the seams too tightly, and maybe the paper expanded a bit? I cut out a sliver of paper between the two pieces, dampened with the mister, and ran my fingers up and down the seam, which seemed to help. I'll see what it all looks like in the morning.

I hope this all works out, since the paper is a nice looking affect, and it does hide wall blemishes well and give it character. Im also thinking the paint may help seal the edges down a bit as well, but I know I cant rely on that, the paper has to be soundly on the wall.

Must say though, while the pieces were going up and I was brushing them, and the walls were getting covered, it was a bit therapuetic, and felt good to be getting some done.

Oh yeah, you asked how I spread it, I used a wall paper brush to smooth out and press the paper to the wall, and a 12" straight edge and knife to do the trimming. Very sparingly used a seam roller as I read they push more paste out of seams than help. SO I pretty much used only the brush, and ran it up and down over seams as well, and along door/window casings.


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

BTW- this is your first. I was trained and it took a couple of years and really never stopped to get good at it.
I would also get a plastic smoother and use that from top to bottom. on heavier stock a brush isn't enough. In fact, 99% of the time I smooth with a plastic smoother, just use different angles, pressure depending on material.
Another advantage to rolling the water/paste on with a table is you can see it gets on everything uniformly. You can see this is important. Booking even your way will help.
Give it a few mins. 3-5.


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Use a 6" for trimming- you wont ride over humps and things- slide it along as you trim.


----------



## jombres (Dec 30, 2005)

Hi Everybody, just wanted to let you all know, my papering project came out pretty darn nice! The problem I had with the one piece separating from the wall, I think was due to not noticing that there was a dry spot (or not-as-wet) from perhaps a poor pull out of the water tray. Subsequent whole sheets I applied, I kept a sprayer bottle handy and added a few mists here and there if needed, and I also booked the paper for a little while (minute or so) even though instructions did not call for it, to help even moisture out from booked surface to surface. 
I actually enjoyed the process of hanging the wallpaper and seeing it transform my living room and hallway.

Then I painted the paper and walls and it really came alive. Changed my outlets and switches, the hallway ceiling light, and then out came all the Christmas decorations. Over my vacation I will hang the sheets up the stairwell, and upstairs hallway, but overall, I am quite pleased with how this project turned out so far.

I wanted to thank you all publicly for your comments, suggestions, and experiences!

I wish you and your families all a joyous Merry Christmas, Hanukah, and New Years! Thank You all.
Joe


----------



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I love happy endings!
:thumbup:


----------



## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Good job guys!


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Glad you figured it out. Now you are ready to hang a 40ft tall open stairway:laughing:


----------

