# Temporary Fix for Water Leaking Through Shower Grout?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Going to end up costing far more to fix it right by putting it off. 
Going to have to deal with mold, rotted studs, subfloor ECT.
We have no picture so anyone's going to have to guess just how bad it really is or how to fix it.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Grout is not waterproof---a leak bad enough to show up in the basement is not likely caused by bad grout--you have water getting out of the enclosure some where else.

Tape plastic over the walls for now and see if the leak stops---

a properly built tub/shower area should be waterproof without tile at all--

When you do replace that, apply the proper waterproofing to the backer---

Pictures do help----you might have a plumbing issue---bad shower arm--leaking mixer valve cover---back washing tub spout--

How did you trouble shoot the leak? If you haven't done that yet--we will help--Mike---


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

Its definitely the cracked grout that the water is coming from. If I aim the water away from the trouble spot there is no leaking. Ran it for 30 mins like that with no problems. I'll see about getting pictures posted soon.


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

Here is a pic of what the trouble area looks like (along with some remains of duct tape I had over it).


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I suspect that the green board behind that tile is rotten---

water gets behind the tile---through the grout--It's not waterproof--then pools at the bottom and rots out the gypsum backer----

Sorry---


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

So what exactly would I need to do to permanently fix this issue?

In the meantime, I think I'm going to put up a second shower curtain on that wall to prevent water from getting to it.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

bigbopper180 said:


> So what exactly would I need to do to permanently fix this issue?
> 
> In the meantime, I think I'm going to put up a second shower curtain on that wall to prevent water from getting to it.


First off tear out all the tile and grout, thin set get rid of the green dry wall board and use hardi board, then after that is up and seams are taped. use this product 



 that will water proof it. then retile. and your done.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

There is no such thing as a temporary fix at this point. The damage is done, so start getting the materials and tools. You will find that once you start pushing or pulling on tiles, they will most likely come loose, and the wall material is as soft as Jello.

You may also have water sitting between the tile and shower pan, if it has ran down between the tile & wall material.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

oh'mike said:


> I suspect that the green board behind that tile is rotten---
> 
> water gets behind the tile---through the grout--It's not waterproof--then pools at the bottom and rots out the gypsum backer----
> 
> Sorry---


Most likely it is not even Green Board. Most likely GypRock, depending on the age of the home.


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> Most likely it is not even Green Board. Most likely GypRock, depending on the age of the home.


My home was built in 1979 but the bathroom appears to have been remodeled fairly recently so it's anyone's guess what's behind the tile.

The other thing is that there is no shower pan. This is a tub with a shower and the water runs through the tiles straight into the house structure then through an access under the floor. Since I have a drop down ceiling in my basement I caught it the first time this happened and do not see any structural damage near the floor.

And by "temporary fix" I mean a way to take showers without getting water in that area of the shower.


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

What is wrong with pulling out all the loose grout and filling the space between the tiles with caulk of a similar color? I did that three years ago when I moved into my house knowing that there would be a total gut/redo in the future. I have not had any problems since and the job is on the schedule for this summer. 

This is not a fix, this is just a band aid until you have the time to properly deal with the problem.

B


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

Couldn't I also use some sort of film forming sealer?


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## JKeefe (Jan 4, 2013)

Beepster said:


> What is wrong with pulling out all the loose grout and filling the space between the tiles with caulk of a similar color? I did that three years ago when I moved into my house knowing that there would be a total gut/redo in the future. I have not had any problems since and the job is on the schedule for this summer.
> 
> This is not a fix, this is just a band aid until you have the time to properly deal with the problem.
> 
> B


What's wrong with that is that it is nor appropriate to assume that shower tiles, or gaps between tiles, are impervious to water. They are not. Water will always get behind shower tiles. Proper shower construction uses a waterproof membranes behind the tiles and a waterproof drain pan at the bottom.

If those membranes aren't in place (in the OP's case it sounds like they are not), water will be getting into the house structure. Any time you have a water problem that is affecting structure, especially in a bathroom that isn't on-slab, it needs to be addressed ASAP. If it's not addressed, the water will continue to affect the structure. Saying "I'm going to replace the bathroom soon anyway" shouldn't be justification to let the problem go. A bathroom renovation does not have to require a new subfloor, or new floor joists underneath, etc.

The appropriate course of action is to pull the tile and investigate how the water is getting out of the tub. The OP says "other home improvements currently take priority." The OP needs to reevaluate his or her priorities, since stopping a water problem should be a high priority.


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

So I pressed through the tiles and they fell right in and yep, wet green board. I opened up a few tiles and have a fan on it to dry out what I can behind the wall before I start tearing tile out.

The good news is that the wet spot appears to be mostly in one area so no extensive damage as far as I can tell.

Now on to the next steps. I'm going to remove all the tiles around the shower and tear out the green board and replace with hardi board. Is it no different than installing drywall? Or should I get help/hire someone who knows what they are doing?


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Beepster said:


> *What is wrong with pulling out all the loose grout and filling the space between the tiles with caulk of a similar color?* I did that three years ago when I moved into my house knowing that there would be a total gut/redo in the future. I have not had any problems since and the job is on the schedule for this summer.
> 
> This is not a fix, this is just a band aid until you have the time to properly deal with the problem.
> 
> B





bigbopper180 said:


> Couldn't I also use some sort of film forming sealer?


What;s WRONG!!!! 

You'll know when the Shower Nazi Inspector shows up in the middle of the night.

Of course you can.... :yes:however the shower curtain seems like an easier temp fix.

If you were to use a silcone caulk as a temp fix.... I'd be sure that there is ventilation behind the wall to dry it out.... prevent rot and mold in the interim.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

bigbopper180 said:


> So I pressed through the tiles and they fell right in and yep, wet green board. I opened up a few tiles and have a fan on it to dry out what I can behind the wall before I start tearing tile out.
> 
> The good news is that the wet spot appears to be mostly in one area so no extensive damage as far as I can tell.
> 
> Now on to the next steps. I'm going to remove all the tiles around the shower and tear out the green board and replace with hardi board. Is it no different than installing drywall? Or should I get help/hire someone who knows what they are doing?


 
Virtually same as drywall..... cuts/scores more difficult.... put up with the water resistant screws that will be boxed right next to the hardy... I call them Durock screws...... may want to use a countersink bit .... or alot of drill torq.

If you're not going to use Hydra-ban or Red Guard. you'll want 6mill poly behind the hardi or cement board.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Hardi is not 1/2" you might be happier using Durrock--

first check the studs and make any corrections so the wall is flat---

Screw Durrock to the studs--starting above the tub flange---

Fill any gaps with tilers mesh and thinset---very thin coat so the wall stays flat.


Paint on a waterproofing--like Red Guard or Hydroban---there are many brands of paint on waterproofing.

Then do your layout of the new tile--and start tiling--use a good modified powdered thinset--do not use a premixed product.

This is also a good time to replace your mixer valve---


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## bigbopper180 (Feb 18, 2014)

First off let me say thanks for all the help (especially oh'mike). This site is a great place for good info.

Once I get all the tile and greenboard torn down this weekend I will assess the wall and prep it for the concrete. Luckily my uncle works for Michigan Tile and installs it on the side so he will be a huge help in the coming weeks (free custom tile ), but the cement backerboard installation will be up to me, so to continue with my line of questioning:



oh'mike said:


> Fill any gaps with tilers mesh and thinset---very thin coat so the wall stays flat.


Are you referring to gaps between the sections of backerboard?



oh'mike said:


> This is also a good time to replace your mixer valve---


Pardon my ignorance, but what is a mixer valve?

Thanks!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Any corner or seam needs a thin coat of thinset--and mesh where needed--also the gap above the tub---

---------------------------------------------
Mixer valve----the tub/shower on off thingy---if the tile is older and failing--that valve is also getting old--when the tile is gone,the job is simple---(if you have basic plumbing skills)

When removing the old walls---peal off the outside row of tiles --make a shallow cut through the drywalll---bash a couple of hand holds--and pull the tile and drywall off all at once.

when you have some experience (10 or 20 jobs--) you can strip a tub surround in 30 minutes---


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