# Trane XR90, LED flashes 2 times for error



## hvac benny

From what you described, it sounds like it could be the high limit, but these things are hard to diagnose over the internet. Your best bet would be to see what the flashes mean by looking on the labels on the furnace door. The error codes are usually quick flashes followed by longer flashes, and also usually double digit to avoid confusion.


----------



## Final Final

James35 said:


> Trane XR90, LED flashes 2 times (flash-flash ---long pause--- flash-flash).
> 
> 
> It is recycling itself, or failing to recycle...
> 
> So then the blower continues to blow air...but not warm air. No heat. Just a running fan, blowing air.
> 
> At times, I have "reset" it by powering the furnace off/on 2 times within 30 seconds as the manual advises. (Powering off at the breaker box.) This has cleared the problem many times for 30-40 days.
> 
> And then, it happens again. Same flash-flash. Blower blowing with no heat - just air.
> 
> Sometimes the "reset" technique mentioned above will not work at all (for a day or two). Then, all of a sudden, the "reset" works and heat is blowing again.
> 
> Any ideas?


James:


A 2 flash code means that the furnace is in a 'hard' lockout. This happens after 3 trials for ignition. You haven't listed the model and serial number of the furnace so it is hard to get real specific. XR90 is the family of 90+% furnace of Trance, but the model will be something like TUX... or TUY....ALSO, is it natural gas or LP?

1. To reset it in from a lock out you have to interrupt the power to the board for several seconds, which it sounds like you have done in the past. If it is a nuisance trip this will take care of it.

2. Some causes of lockout caused by failure to ignite can be an igniter that is getting weak (depending on the model number of the furnace whether it uses a silicon carbide or silicon nitrite igniter it should ohm out at 40-80 ohms cold (SC) and between 11-17 ohms for the (SN)); poor air/gas mixture (this can also happen during extremely cold weather when the gas company injects propane into the natural gas lines to keep the gas pressure up, or they haven't done it soon enough); the flame sensor may also be getting old or corroded up. These are some causes on intial start up. If it fails after it runs for some time there may be a crack in the heat exchanger that expands after it runs for some time and if it blows on the flame it can lift it off the flame sensor causing it to shut down. 

3. And the reason the blower keeps running after the flame fails is to alert you that something is wrong with the furnace.

4. You mentioned that sometimes resetting doesn't work???? This could mean that the main board is bad OR you have a loose wire somewhere and when you are moving wires a connection is remade. Sometimes the connections become corroded or pitted so make sure that all the connections are clean and solid. After power down and up, does it try to light? What I mean does the igniter glow and the gas valve attempt to open? (Something else to consider - is the gas valve sticking?)


----------



## H. Phillips

This sounds like a problem I am having with an older American Standard furnace. The board will tell you if you have a flame sensor, air pressure, or limit switch failure. The gas valve doesn't seem to want to stay open, it clicks on and off after a time, the control board is brand new and the voltage to the gas valve is constant when this happens. The flame is a nice blue not a bit of orange, so I don't think it is too rich. It will run anywhere from a minute to five minutes when this happens.


----------



## Marty S.

H. Phillips said:


> This sounds like a problem I am having with an older American Standard furnace. The board will tell you if you have a flame sensor, air pressure, or limit switch failure. The gas valve doesn't seem to want to stay open, it clicks on and off after a time, the control board is brand new and the voltage to the gas valve is constant when this happens. The flame is a nice blue not a bit of orange, so I don't think it is too rich. It will run anywhere from a minute to five minutes when this happens.


 If you have constant 24 volts to the gas valve and it's turning off and on the the valve is bad.


----------



## H. Phillips

_If you have constant 24 volts to the gas valve and it's turning off and on the the valve is bad._ 

My head says this is so. But my stingy heart says *"Are you sure! Those gas valves are expensive!"*


----------



## Final Final

Yes, if you have 24 volts to the gas valve and it shuts off the valve is bad. You say it runs for 1-5 minutes and then shuts off, so also be sure you are not losing flame contact with the flame sensor. It only takes a millisecond of loss contact with it to have the valve close. Loss of contact can be caused by the flame being blowen or lifted off byair leakage from a cracked heat exchanger or poor flame distribution if the burners are starting to get dirty. Just some things to check.


----------



## H. Phillips

Final Final said:


> Yes, if you have 24 volts to the gas valve and it shuts off the valve is bad. You say it runs for 1-5 minutes and then shuts off, so also be sure you are not losing flame contact with the flame sensor. It only takes a millisecond of loss contact with it to have the valve close. Loss of contact can be caused by the flame being blowen or lifted off byair leakage from a cracked heat exchanger or poor flame distribution if the burners are starting to get dirty. Just some things to check.


The gas valve is giving very audible clicks. The flame appears to be very steady with no drafts. The unit was cleaned last year. Being a dual fuel unit it doesn't run that much except in extreme weather and morning warm up. If the flame sensor was telling the control board there is no flame and the board was turning the valve off, then there would be a loss of voltage to the valve. Or would it be so fast I cannot see it on my digital voltmeter?

Also would the unit not give a flame sensor failure reading instead of recycle time out?


----------



## beenthere

Check your vent system.
Pressure switch is probably opening up and closing very quickly.


----------



## H. Phillips

beenthere said:


> Check your vent system.
> Pressure switch is probably opening up and closing very quickly.


It didn't when tapped. Also the IFC should send a low pressure warning. And again I would expect the voltage to drop out.


----------



## beenthere

Those pressure switches can open and close faster then your meter can detect.
And the board won't report it as a pressure switch failure.
Generally comes back as a flame failure. Or a lock out from X retries.

Digital meters are not fast enough to catch it.

A manometer will though.


----------



## Final Final

If it is definite audible click that is the solenoid valve in gas valve opening and closing and it sure sounds like loss of power to valve. 

Like it has been said, it is tough to trouble shoot over the internet; we are just giving you possible scenarios...this is definitely one of those 'nuisance' problems that are a little tough to catch. From a service tech perspective it is always better to have a 'catastrophic' breakdown; much easier to diagnose and repair..Now it is a little like playing detective and eliminating all the possibilities one at a time until you find out which part is causing the issues. I hate being a parts changer and replacing everything until it works...I'm sure you don't want to be one either....plus it can get expensive. 

One of those safeties (air switch, flame senser, gas valve, transformer (are you getting a good 24-27 volts from the secondary?); high limit; inducer motor, etc). Also be sure you have a good solid (earthen) ground to the furnace. Check between the white 'neutral' wire going to the furnace and the green 'ground' wire. You theoretically should have '0' volts, anything over 10-12 volts can cause you trouble with the board. At the same time make sure all your electrical connections are tight; a loose connection caused by vibration can sometimes cause it to act up.

You say you are only getting a 2 flash fault code; which means a hard lockout, so this only happens after a 3 trial for ignition failure.....if one of the other safeties is opening again theoretically you should be seeing a different fault code. I don't know what model number of furnace you have so I can't give you the different codes; depending on which one it is you can have up 7-9 diagnostic codes.....make sure it is not some other code than 2.


----------



## theob

I know that this thread is a little old but I have been having the same problems with my trane xr90 furnace. it tries to cycle on three times, doesn't stay on, and then the fan blows cold air until someone notices. the error code is two blinking lights. 

I pulled the front panels off and checked the ignitor (silicon nitrate), which seemed to be in order (13.5 ohms resistance). I watched as the furnace started and the flame came on every time from 8-20 seconds and then went out. I took out the flame sensor and scrubbed it a bit (it had just a little corrosion on it) and put it back in but it didn't seem to change anything. I also cleaned the intake/vent outside since I noticed that it had a few cobwebs in it, but it didn't help. 

My gut feeling is that it's the flame sensor, but I really don't know that much about furnaces. Anyone have any thoughts?

Thanks.

Model# TUX080C942D3

Ps - I forgot to add that I can hear an audible click a second or two before the flame goes out. I am not sure if that is part of the normal cycle of shutting down the flame or if that is the valve switch losing power for another reason.


----------



## beenthere

Did you check the exhaust pipe.


----------



## theob

I checked the exhaust pipe on the outside of the house, but not inside the furnace. I did not want to disassemble the furnace too much without a service manual or some sort of know-how (i have nothing other than common sense to go by right now). 

However, on closer inspection, I found out that the glow from the window actually wasn't from a flame being lit but actually from the ignitor itself. There is no flame, just the ignitor coming on and off. I can't believe I didn't notice that in the beginning. 

Even though I tested the resistance of the ignitor and it seemed ok at 13.5 ohms resistance, I wondering if it could possibly be that. What else could it be?

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## theob

On a whim, I decided to replace the ignitor. That did not seem to help. There is still no flame and the ignitor shuts off after 10 seconds or so. 

I know at this point this should be a separate thread. Sorry. 

Any thoughts?


----------



## kenmac

theob said:


> On a whim, I decided to replace the ignitor. That did not seem to help. There is still no flame and the ignitor shuts off after 10 seconds or so.
> 
> I know at this point this should be a separate thread. Sorry.
> 
> Any thoughts?


 

I would make sure the ps is staying closed & check the other parts of the 24v circuit. If it fires up & goes back off could be ps or flame sensor , bad ground, board


----------



## theob

i assume 'ps' means pressure switch? i really don't know that much about furnaces other than what I see when i take the front panels off and what I can gather off the internet. Is there a good parts list or service manual that I could possibly find? 

I would test the ps to make sure it's closed (shouldn't it be open in the beginning?) but I'm not exactly sure which part this is. I would guess that it's the piece right off the main gas line coming in, but I can be sure. I'm also not sure how to test to make sure it's open or closed. any advice?


----------



## kenmac

It has a small hose from it to the exhaust motor. Sometimes that small port at the exhaust motor will clog up. Have you checked for 24v at the valve when this happens ? You need a vm to start checking for voltage. Did you ever find out what the error codes were ?


----------



## theob

i checked the pressure switch while the furnace was off and it appeared open (infinite resistance on the multimeter). i did not bother firing up the furnace because i thought that the pressure switch should be closed (close to zero resistance) when the furnace is off. is this correct? and if so, does it look like my pressure switch needs replacing? can i verify this by temporarily putting a jumper wire from one terminal to the other on the pressure switch and firing the furnace up to see if the flame lights and stays on?

on a side note, there is no pressure hose from the exhaust fan. just one from the gas valve (i believe that is what it is), one from the combustion chamber, and the final leg to the pressure switch. 

assuming the pressure switch is bad, i am wondering if the fact that the condensate hose was jammed down the drain was what was causing the issue. i will be putting in a condensate pump shortly anyway. 

thanks for the help.


----------



## beenthere

Should be open when the furnace/inducer is not running.


----------



## theob

just after i posted last i found a few sites that said that the pressure switch should be open when the furnace is off. i turned the furnace on and the resistance jumped to zero and stayed there. i did pull the condensate tube out of the drain but that didn't seem to do much either. 

i did finally check the voltage to the gas valve. i pulled the two wires off of the valve and read from the red wire to ground somewhere in the furnace. it read 0 volts when the inducer fan started, and stayed at zero when the ignitor came on. the ignitor glowed for 10 secs or so, like normal, and then there was the audible click from the lower area near the circuit board (i believe) and the ignitor turned off. around this time, i read about 26.5 volts from the red wire for a few seconds and then it went away. 

any ideas?

ps - the original error code was two flashes of the diagnostic light (System lockout (retries or recycles exceeded))


----------



## beenthere

Could be the switch, is opening while the burners are lite. This can be a bad switch. or an obstruction in the vent pipes.


----------



## theob

beenthere said:


> Could be the switch, is opening while the burners are lite. This can be a bad switch. or an obstruction in the vent pipes.


it could be the pressure switch? the burners have never lit. the ignitor always glows and then shuts after 10 secs or so. no flame.

the switch could be bad even though there is no resistance between the terminals when the furnace is running? although i did find that while there was no resistance between the two terminals with the wires still attached, and there was 24v+ going from each lead/wire to ground, there was no voltage between the two leads/wires. i don't know if that means anything or not. 

i did check the small pressure hoses and there didn't seem to be any obstruction. there was no obstruction that i can see on the intake pipe/grate, but I haven't checked the exhaust fan. it that necessary?

thanks for the help


----------



## kenmac

Don't read resistance .. read voltage. If the switch is colsed . you won't read volts connecting vm terminal to terminal. If the switch is open you will read voltage


----------



## beenthere

Its not the switch if its not lighting, and the ignitor is glowing.

Check for 24 volts across the gas valve.


----------



## theob

beenthere said:


> Its not the switch if its not lighting, and the ignitor is glowing.
> 
> Check for 24 volts across the gas valve.


the ignitor is certainly glowing and the furnace is not lighting. i did check the gas valve yesterday and i believe it might not getting power, though i am not entirely sure of how it's supposed to power up.

to check the voltage to the gas valve, this is what i did: i pulled the two wires off of the gas valve and started the furnace up. i then checked the voltage from the red wire to ground somewhere in the furnace and watched it for the first minute while the furnace started up. i read 0 volts when the inducer fan started, and it stayed at zero when the ignitor came on. the ignitor glowed for 10 secs or so, like normal, and then there was the audible click from the lower area near the circuit board (i believe) and the ignitor turned off. around this time, i read about 26.5 volts from the red wire for a few seconds and then it went away. i believe i also checked the black wire for voltage as well, but i didn't get anything. 

is this a gas valve problem? a circuit board problem?

as a bit of background info, the furnace came with the house when i bought it a couple of years ago. i believe there was a flood at some point because the bottom of the furnace is pretty rusty (and the previous owner mentioned something about not hooking up the condensate drain properly or something like that). from what i can see, the water damage is only confined to the bottom of the furnace and it's metal walls and floor. the circuit board seems fine and the furnace ran fine for the past couple of winters. might there be a problem there?


----------



## beenthere

Check for voltage between the 2 wires that are connected to the gas valve, while they are attached to the gas valve.

If you don't get 24 volts across the gas valve, but do when you read red to ground. Most likely. You have a limit or roll out switch open somewhere.


----------



## theob

thanks. i will check now. i believe i checked the high limit switch, but i am not sure where the roll out switch is located.


----------



## beenthere

Somewhere around the burner box. May be more then one.


----------



## theob

beenthere said:


> Check for voltage between the 2 wires that are connected to the gas valve, while they are attached to the gas valve.
> 
> If you don't get 24 volts across the gas valve, but do when you read red to ground. Most likely. You have a limit or roll out switch open somewhere.


I checked and I don't have 24 volts across the gas valve. However, if that was caused by a trip from one of the switches, wouldn't that show up as three flashes of the led as opposed to the two flash, system lockout diagnositc?


----------



## theob

i took a quick picture of the upper portion of the furnace. i believe the switch at the bottom of the burner box is the high limit switch, and i checked that. the only think that i can think of that could possibly be the rollout switch would be the piece with two wires attached to it on the far wall below the burner box, but i don't see a reset button on it. 

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/1530/img4049j.jpg


----------



## beenthere

Pic is corrupted, and won't download.


----------



## theob

sorry. i'll post another version in a minute


----------



## theob

try this:

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/2175/img4049q.jpg


----------



## theob

i uploaded a smaller version in case the link didn't come through.


----------



## beenthere

Should be a roll out on either the left or right side of the burner box.

That is the high limit directly below teh burner box.


----------



## theob

beenthere said:


> Should be a roll out on either the left or right side of the burner box.
> 
> That is the high limit directly below teh burner box.


i checked and there is really absolutely nothing on either side, except for the pressure tube that comes off the bottom right (which you can see in the picture).


----------



## beenthere

Ok.

you said the red wire to ground had 24 volts. So trace the black wire to its source.


----------



## theob

the black wire is actually a blue wire and it junctions on a small-ish box to the left side of the circuit board that has 4 wires coming out of it. everything seemed to be connected/not corroded, etc.


----------



## beenthere

Trace those other wires.


----------



## theob

they all trace back to various places on the circuit board. i pulled each connection off the circuit board and checked for corrosion, etc, but i didn't find anything. i tried to fire up the furnace again to see if it was just a bad contact, but i got the same thing (nothing).


----------



## beenthere

I think your going to need someone on site for it then.

Just replacing parts until getting the right one can be expensive.


----------



## theob

i was afraid you were going to say that. do you think there's a decent possibility that it's the board itself? i found a place that i can get the oem replacement (a slight upgrade from the original) for a decent price (~$95) and i don't mind installing it myself. i certainly don't want to start replacing parts willy nilly, but i'm afraid that if someone comes by to fix it they're going to hand me a bill in the hundreds. maybe they wouldn't, but it certainly seems like a reasonable possibility. 

i figured that at this point, it's not the ignitor, it's probably not the flame sensor (i cleaned it) or the pressure switch (i tested it), it's not the high limit switch (i tested that), i checked the pressure tubes, i vacuumed out the intake/exhaust outside the house. 

is there anything i'm missing? i guess i don't know enough about what could go wrong here. 

thanks again for the help. i really appreciate it, even if i don't solve the problem myself.


----------



## beenthere

Could be the board. But still sounds like something else.

Hate to see 85 bucks thrown away on a part that is not the problem. Then more money on another part. and then still have to call someone out.


----------



## GWN

Hi all, Im glad i found this Board.
I'm having the exact same problem for the last 2 years, and my Trane XR90 is no more than 3 years old since my house is a new build.
My service guys have been looking at this problem for the last 2 years and it's already costing me over $300 (new board, service calls ect).
he actually came by this weekend to replace another board and last night the problem is back, so as of right now, no heat again and only cool air.

If alot of us having this problem, doesn't sound like its a manuf. defect?
now i need to find another service guy to look at solve this problem, don't want to keep on replacing parts that is not broken


----------



## dnm

*Tane XR 90 with two blinking light*

My furnance shutsdown every 10-15 min. Sometimes it fails to restart with with error code of "two blinking light". Sometimes, I hear some noise when furnance is trying to start.

Any suggestion?

Thank you


----------



## DIY-Tom

I realize this is an old thread but I thought I'd post my experience with my own 11 year old Trane furnace that had the same symptom as others have posted - unheated air was blowing from vents and wouldn't turn off. No flame in the flame box, 2 blinks on the LED, and when restarting the unit the igniter would come on 3 times, I'd see an orange glow, then it would go to error state.

After just trying a power cycle of the system from the circuit breaker and reading this thread and seeing increasingly complicated things to test, I first just went back to the troubleshooting tip in the manual to check the condensate hose. When I got the hose off it had black sludge in it. I was able to remove the 12" piece of hose with a right angle connection, cleaned it out with hot water. Put the hose back on after checking the other sides of the connections on the unit and not seeing any sludge there. I turned the system back on and the burners came on the first try. Been running for 30 minutes now. Was on the verge of making a service call, glad I took the time to try a couple simple things.

I should note that I did unplug and plug back in every connection on the main board while I had the system off. I didn't see any problems on those connections, so I still think the blockage in the condensate hose was the problem.


----------



## zippityz

I had to register with this forum simply to give kudos to the above poster. I have a Trane XR90 natural gas furnace that would try to ignite over and over again, and when ignition finally occurred, the burners would go out after 10-20 seconds. 

I, too, was on the verge of a service call because I know nothing about furnaces or electrical connections. But after I read the above post I decided to check the condensation lines running to the pump. I pulled the line running from the inducer to the pump, and water came gushing out. So much water, in fact, that I was afraid that something in the gas line switch was going to end up failing as the water ran over that switch (so far, so good). There was gunk in the line, and after clearing that out and hooking everything back up, the furnace is running like a champ now.

The diagnostic clue that this was the problem was that when the inducer fan started running when the furnace got a call for heat, there was a clear sound of water sloshing around at the inducer. If you hear that, even just a little bit, check the lines before mucking about with anything else.


----------



## KhUlmer

*Trane Xr80*

My issue was- 

It would run normally for a length of time, 20 minutes to 3 months, and then it would run for a few seconds and shut down, and eventually throw the 2 blink recycle error code and run cold air.

The simple fix was to take a scotch brite, reach my hand up behind the burner where the white flame sensor wire was and clean the flame sensor rod. I also unplugged that checked the connection and now it is running fantastically. 2 minute fix, no cost and no expensive tech call! Same issue last year, I don't have an annual servicing plan, because I figure I can do it myself. But I am guessing this may be something the annual service call tech would do.


----------



## demaman

DIY-Tom said:


> *I should note that I did unplug and plug back in every connection on the main board while I had the system off*. I didn't see any problems on those connections, so I still think the blockage in the condensate hose was the problem.


just wanted to post if others were having similar issue. I had cold air blowing from Trane XR80 and I have cleaned the flame sensor twice by that point. Still cold air was coming through. I checked the condensation hose and it was fine (Its winter, there shouldn't be any condensation). I already cycled the unit (not sure if I did it right, probably not)

Then I read this post. So I went and checked all connections, everything seemed fine. I then proceed to disconnect and reconnect the two large white connectors (the ones with 12 prongs and 4 prongs). I am assuming one of them was going to power and that actually did cycle the board, now everything is working. I would have never thought to do this if it was not for the poster above.

Thanks again


----------



## demaman

ok, so here is the update. The issue has returned but I fixed it by replacing the board, took about 45 minutes. (I could have saved 40-50$ for the board if I did a little bit better research .. oh well) I wanted to wait couple days before posting, to see if the issue would return, so far so good. if you have to replace the board make sure to take bunch of pictures, maybe even a video and then re-plug the wires ,one by one, from old board to new. Also, try finding a video on how to replace a board on your unit, could be helpful.

here is what was happening:
1. the inducer motor would start spinning
2. flame igniter would start glowing
3. I would hear a click (I am assuming thats the gas turning on)
4. No gas ignition
5. The blower would start going
6. repeat the process several times

So from this, looking back, I could tell it wasn't the flame sensor, since there was no burn, there was nothing to sense. The high limit switch(switch that senses if there is too much heat) wasn't an issue, since the igniter would come on. If there was too much heat, the igniter would not come on and the blower would just keep going. 

I didn't think it was the gas valve issue since sometimes the furnace work just fine. I figured it was the board, maybe the igniter relay on the board was going bad, since those things can go bad. When I removed the board, I noticed there were dark yellow spots on the back (none of them by the relays). When I put new one in, it started working fine. 

So I am not 100% sure exactly what was wrong with the old board but looks like it just wore out.


----------



## Tomcat41005

I too have a Trane XR90. This thing has been a pain in the a**!!!!! Nothing runs like a Trane my butt!!! I have had over 2000$ worth of service on it and the issue described in this thread continues. No service rep knows what the issue is. They have all spend countless hours testing, cleaning looking and looking more. They all guess, and by the time they think it is one thing it proves em wrong. It only occurs on really cold nights which to me is a indication of some type of thermometer issue. I would love to see Trane explain away all these issues we all have with their piece of s*it furnace. We ought to sue em for reimbursement and get a reliable furnace.


----------



## supers05

Tomcat41005 said:


> I too have a Trane XR90. This thing has been a pain in the a**!!!!! Nothing runs like a Trane my butt!!! I have had over 2000$ worth of service on it and the issue described in this thread continues. No service rep knows what the issue is. They have all spend countless hours testing, cleaning looking and looking more. They all guess, and by the time they think it is one thing it proves em wrong. It only occurs on really cold nights which to me is a indication of some type of thermometer issue. I would love to see Trane explain away all these issues we all have with their piece of s*it furnace. We ought to sue em for reimbursement and get a reliable furnace.


- How cold is "cold"? 
- How old is this furnace of yours? 
- Do you have a 2 pipe venting system? 
Has the ignitor been replaced? (with all those service visits, I kinda expect it to have been.) 
Has the manifold pressure been measured? Did they every tell you what it was? 
- Is this NG or LPG? 
- Was there at least any flue gas analysis done on it? (again, with those visits....) 
- Can you otherwise explain what has been guessed at, and done to it, as you haven't mentioned any of it. 
- lastly, are there any error codes that it gives you during it's misfits?

Cheers!


----------



## beenthere

Tomcat41005 said:


> I too have a Trane XR90. This thing has been a pain in the a**!!!!! Nothing runs like a Trane my butt!!! I have had over 2000$ worth of service on it and the issue described in this thread continues. No service rep knows what the issue is. They have all spend countless hours testing, cleaning looking and looking more. They all guess, and by the time they think it is one thing it proves em wrong. It only occurs on really cold nights which to me is a indication of some type of thermometer issue. I would love to see Trane explain away all these issues we all have with their piece of s*it furnace. We ought to sue em for reimbursement and get a reliable furnace.


Should have requested that your service company call out a Trane rep.


----------



## Tomcat41005

FOLLOW UP: The service calls were to TRANE certified experts!! If the solution were that simple you think this many people and countless other threads across the internet would be complaining about TRANE furnaces with this issue?? 

The solution that finally fixed the issue. We bought a new furnace. Issue solved. I hope anyone that has a TRANE doesn't wasn't time and money on servicing these pieces of garbage! Just go ahead and bite the bullet and buy a new furnace other than a TRANE!


----------

