# Garage door chain slack



## mark_kershner (Mar 11, 2017)

1. Is it working okay? 
2. Is this a new development?


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

The door is opening and shutting just like it should.

I was installing some new rollers the other day and I noticed the slack.

It just seems like there is too much slack. Is there a slack benchmark?


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## waltermitty (Mar 24, 2014)

Support







tinyurl.com





pull up the manual for your opener and verify adjustment specs


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## mark_kershner (Mar 11, 2017)

My chain has been slacking for 26 years. No issues. OP does raise a good question. 


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## waltermitty (Mar 24, 2014)

Given the two conditions, i.e. too tight or too slack when the door is closed, slack is better.
The slack depicted is looser than desired but not dangerous. It's just unnecessary. But it's
part of the opener's 'ecosystem' and you should observe full travel ... to door fully opened
and check to ensure that it stops properly and chain isn't too tight or other. You just posted
a simply snapshot but proper PM really dictates extreme travel review anyway. Note that
the full open trigger levers are working at the right spots, etc.


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## quatsch (Feb 4, 2021)

Too much slack = chain slips on sprocket.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Yes, too much slack. And, yes, that is the tensioner.

The chain, at midpoint, should sag to (about) the same level as the bottom of the rail.

Too much slack will make it slap and can allow it to drag on the outside surface of the panels, possibly wearing a groove but mostly spreading a greasy stain (assuming you ever lubricated the chain - sparsely so it won't drip on the car).

You might consider lightly lubricating the springs of the opener using a spray teflon/silicone or other lube. This will reduce friction of the spring against itself as it operates and make the motor last longer and operation quieter.


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

Here's an update. 

I loosened the chain tensioner and tightened the chain so the chain now sags at the bottom of the rail.

Now here's what I learned (since this is the first time I performed this task).

When you have tightened the chain to the right tension, and you are securing the two nuts, the chain can twist and it won't be aligned to the motor gear.

You need to watch if the chain is twisting.


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## quatsch (Feb 4, 2021)

ScottAlex said:


> You need to watch if the chain is twisting.


Which means a pulley alignment problem.


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

You say pulley alignment. I didn't see any pulley's in my chain system.

Isn't it a tension-er alignment issue? If the tension-er twists so will the chain.


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## rogerwh (Mar 1, 2021)

ScottAlex said:


> You say pulley alignment. I didn't see any pulley's in my chain system.
> 
> Isn't it a tension-er alignment issue? If the tension-er twists so will the chain.


Don't pay any attention to him, probably doesn't have a garage. Thanks for the information.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

I usually clamp a small pair of vice grips on the adjuster. That way one wrench does everything. I keep the adjuster inline so the chain doesn't twist. Usually let the chain droop to the rail.


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

Ok, we are starting to make some progress.

In 20 years I don't think the chain has been lubed.

Maybe that accounts for the slack? That is, the chain has stretched because it was dry?

I like the idea of lubing the chain, but how is this done without the lube getting all over the car beneath it?


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

ScottAlex said:


> Ok, we are starting to make some progress.
> 
> In 20 years I don't think the chain has been lubed.
> 
> ...


Spray with a rag behind and wipe it down - as if it's a bike chain. A little goes a long way...


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Keep an eye out for this issue. Mine was 18 years old and it actually cut the sprocket off the shaft.


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

I watched that video.

Did the sprocket disconnect from the shaft because:


it was old?
the chain was too tight?
the door opener motor was overused?


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## mark_kershner (Mar 11, 2017)

Move the car out of the garage? 


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

ScottAlex said:


> Ok, we are starting to make some progress.
> 
> In 20 years I don't think the chain has been lubed.
> 
> ...


I use a spray chain lube (meant for motorcycles). You can't go nuts and a wipe with a rag helps, but it is thick enough that it won't drip.

My GDO is a Sears (Chamberlain?) and about 25 years old. The manual says 1/2" above the rail with the door trolley disconnected, but agree that it is not super critical. I'm just about out of adjuster.


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

After my chain adjustment today my chain is about 1/2 inch below the rail (with the door down).

If you are about out of adjuster, are you forced to get a new chain?

Why has your chain been stretching?


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

ScottAlex said:


> After my chain adjustment today my chain is about 1/2 inch below the rail (with the door down).
> 
> If you are about out of adjuster, are you forced to get a new chain?
> 
> Why has your chain been stretching?


Could be the down pressure is making the chain more slack. Stop it half way up and see how much slack you have.

As far as the sprocket wearing I think it has a bushing as opposed to a ball or roller bearing. Keeping it lubed will make it last a long time. If we are getting 20 years out of one we shouldn't look a gift horse in the mouth.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Garage door guy here. When checking the slack you have to pull the disconnect rope and disengage the opener from the door. Then go ahead and adjust the slack so there the chain doesn’t droot enough to touch the bottom edge of the opener track. if the chain is adjusted properly, and you still see a lot of slack in it when the door is shut and the opener is hooked to the door, your closing limit needs to be backed off just a bit. The slack is caused by the opener arm traveling too far and putting tension on the track, causing it to bow. 
Mike Hawkins


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

Hey Garage Door Guy, I think I have the slack adjusted correctly. The door is noticeably quieter when I lift and lower it.

A partial reason for the quietness is I replaced 8 out of the 10 rollers. I'm grappling with how to replace the two bottom rollers (knowing that removing that hardware assembly with the metal cable attached is tricky business).

Is there a special trick to replacing the bottom rollers? See picture below.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

ScottAlex said:


> Hey Garage Door Guy, I think I have the slack adjusted correctly. The door is noticeably quieter when I lift and lower it.
> 
> A partial reason for the quietness is I replaced 8 out of the 10 rollers. I'm grappling with how to replace the two bottom rollers (knowing that removing that hardware assembly with the metal cable attached is tricky business).
> 
> ...


That’s an old style bracket, back when they made everything beefy for the weight of the old wooden doors. If you lift the door all the way up, there will be very little tension on the springs at all. Once the door is up, take a pair of vise grips and clamp it around the end of the torsion shaft so the vise grip is touching the wall in the direction that will prevent the shaft from turning. That’s more of a safeguard. Then you can unbolt the bottom brackets one at a time and replace the rollers. After you replace them, release the vise grips and you should be good to go. P.s. you can use the opener to run the door up, but if you run it up disconnected from the opener, you can raise it a little higher than normal and you’ll be able to feel when the cables have very little tension. Don’t go too high where the cables get too much slack and start to unwind off the drums.
Mike Hawkins


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

I really like your idea of lifting the garage door without the opener so it can go higher (and relieve more spring tension).

I sprayed some WD40 on the 4 nuts holding that heavy metal plate. Some of the carriage bolts are turning in the same direction as the nuts and the nuts will not come off.

Is there a special trick to removing the nuts when the carriage bolts are turning?


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

ScottAlex said:


> I really like your idea of lifting the gartage door without the opener so it can go higher (and relieve more spring tension).
> 
> I sprayed some WD40 on the 4 nuts holding that heavy metal plate. Some of the carriage bolts are turning in the same direction as the nuts and the nuts will not come off.
> 
> Is there a special trick to removing the nuts when the carriage bolts are turning?


Yes. Take a pair of vise grips and tighten them on the nut itself, as tight as you can squeeze it. Then wiggle the vise grip up and down and the bolt will snap in half. If the vise grips slip off before it breaks, put them back on and tighten them a bit more. Just get some new carriage bolts and nuts before you start. I run into it all the time with Masonite doors. 
Mike Hawkins


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## ScottAlex (Dec 31, 2020)

I've got a wood door that is 2 inches thick.

I've been thinking about why the old carriage bolt is turning with the old nut and I can't remove the nuts.

Isn't it mainly because the wood has worn and the carriage bolt has nothing to grab on to?

If that is the case, then wiggling the bolt with vise grips might destroy more wood.

When I get the old carriage bolt out and put the new carriage bolt in, I might find I have the same problem.

The wood is worn and I will not be able to tighten the new nuts because the new bolt is spinning with the nuts.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

ScottAlex said:


> I've got a wood door that is 2 inches thick.
> 
> I've been thinking about why the old carriage bolt is turning with the old nut and I can't remove the nuts.
> 
> ...


You‘ee overthinking it. Trust me, it’ll work fine. The part of the bolt going through the door doesn’t hardly move at all, it’s not going to destroy the wood. He new bolt will tighten down easily with a cordless impact. Been doing it that way for over 25 years.
Mike Hawkins


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## charleswilly (Aug 6, 2021)

The chain on my old garage door opener sags and is clanking against the rail when opening so I believe it needs to be tightened.
I've looked at videos on youtube and they all seem to have a sort of two nut tensioner.
Mine only has one nut and I'm not really sure how to work with it. (see photo)
https://image.ibb.co/b1PyFU/chain.jpg
The nut on the left won't budge and I dont have anything to grip on to on the right.
Any ideas?


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

charleswilly said:


> The chain on my old garage door opener sags and is clanking against the rail when opening so I believe it needs to be tightened.
> I've looked at videos on youtube and they all seem to have a sort of two nut tensioner.
> Mine only has one nut and I'm not really sure how to work with it. (see photo)
> https://image.ibb.co/b1PyFU/chain.jpg
> ...


Charles,
that type of adjuster is like a turnbuckle. Loosen the locknut and turn it, it shortens in one direction, and lengthens in the other. Pull the rope to disconnect the door from the opener when you adjust it.
Mike Hawkins


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