# What to do with drywall edges in receptacles?



## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

The openings for my low voltage brackets are a little oversized. Plates will cover them but I want to fill around the edges with joint compound or caulk. What would you do? Would you use corner bead or tape? (Yes, it cracked under the paper.)


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## Bumpr1080 (Jul 5, 2012)

Not exactly sure what you're looking for as far as advice- but if you are concerned about the exposed edges of the drywall cracking; maybe a little mud just on the inside edge to firm up the cracked areas? 

If recommend mesh tape if you want to go that route- maybe stick the tape to the outside, then wrap it through the hole and stick it on the inside of the wallboard. If its going to be covered by the plate- feel free to experiment. All you need is a sponge to remove anything you add and start again.....


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

I going to use hot mud to prefill so I think I'll use some of it around those openings. If it's as chalky when it dries as premix then I'll prime it. But I have a while because I want to get all three parts of my drywall project to this stage so I only have to mix one batch of hot mud (hopefully).


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

Dorado said:


> The openings for my low voltage brackets are a little oversized.


Your boxes are mounted incorrectly.
The GWB is meant to be flush to the edge of them.

A little putty, a little paint, and you too can make it what it ain't.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

TarheelTerp said:


> Your boxes are mounted incorrectly.
> The GWB is meant to be flush to the edge of them.


I don't think these brackets are made to be flush with 1/2" drywall.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

That is why I always go with old work boxes for LV work. You can always cut the back off of the plastic boxes, if you want something deeper, otherwise, just standard Old work's will do. The ones you have, who makes them, and where did you get them from? They are for 3/8" gypsum as you can see from your measurement.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

It's the Arlington LVMB1. I got a 5 pack on Amazon. They're called Vanco LVMB1 on Amazon but it says Arlington on the brackets.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Maybe this is what you need http://www.lowes.com/pd_89013-81399-OP20PK_0__?productId=3368152


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Dorado said:


> It's the Arlington LVMB1. I got a 5 pack on Amazon. They're called Vanco LVMB1 on Amazon but it says Arlington on the brackets.


I would be removing them and sending them back for a refund, since they are not the correct ones. Unscrew the Gypsum to remove those incorrect sized ones, then use Old work LV plates in the holes after you pull those others. If you do not go with Old work LV's, just go with a four gang box across that space, then replace the wallboard, and cut it for the added size of the box. You can always cut out the back of the plastic New construction boxes with a Sawz-all, then debur with a file, or Linoleum knife.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ToolSeeker said:


> Maybe this is what you need http://www.lowes.com/pd_89013-81399-OP20PK_0__?productId=3368152


 The OP does not need that. Besides, that is what extra scraps of gypsum are for. You cut larger than hole, remove from the back the paper to the size of the hole, and any gypsum, then use the front paper to hold the patch in place when you mud it.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yea it's called a hot patch. But he doesn't want to fill them in. Right ? he just wants them smaller or maybe I read the post wrong. Possible I'm tired.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ToolSeeker said:


> Yea it's called a hot patch. But he doesn't want to fill them in. Right ? he just wants them smaller or maybe I read the post wrong. Possible I'm tired.


Actually what he needs is the proper plates that are the correct depth, which the ones he got are not. If it was me, I would be shooting an email off with the same pictures he attached, including the one with the ruler placed on the outside edge, that goes into the space that the fixture is supposed to be in.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

Good to know about those patches. I think I was close enough with the cutting to get away with just hot mud. I'll have to see how strong it is.

Arlington's catalog page says the bracket "Works with 1/2" or 5/8" drywall" so it's expected that some people will have drywall exposed in front of the bracket. It doesn't really bother me (well, it does, but it won't once I patch it). The screw heads would cause that even if the bracket was 1/8" deeper. The screw slots aren't countersunk.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

On the other hand, it wouldn't be the first time I bought something on Amazon that was an old, inferior model. I wonder if Arlington sizes them better these days. I can't tell from their website.


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

its low voltage, put the plate on and forget it's there..


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Techy said:


> its low voltage, put the plate on and forget it's there..


You can't, due to it exposes too much of the gypsum. They would have to place extenders over the holes, to be within compliance.


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

You're allowed up to 1/4" setback w/ non combustible finish,(314.20).


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Techy said:


> You're allowed up to 1/4" setback w/ non combustible finish,(314.20).


He has more than that, due to the edges are only 3/8" from the plate.


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

1/2(4/8) - 3/8 = 1/8..


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Techy said:


> 1/2(4/8) - 3/8 = 1/8..


Go back and look at his pictures. There is more than 1/8" from the front edge of the plate, and the front of the drywall. You can ask him to place a ruler in the hole, to measure the gap from the face of the drywall, and the edge of the lv plate, but I can tell by looking at the pics that they are not correct.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

1/8" from the bracket being shallow plus 1/8" from the screw head, so I'm legal. I added washers but I guess the drywall sank into the screw head enough when attached to the stud. I'm OK if I go easy on the mud. I guess people who use 5/8" drywall have to countersink into the plastic.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Actually that is 4/16's or 2/8's, which is still too far from the edge. If you want to use them, you will need to use box extenders to be in compliance.


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> Actually that is 4/16's or 2/8's, which is still too far from the edge. If you want to use them, you will need to use box extenders to be in compliance.


314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a
surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncom-
bustible material, boxes employing a ﬂush-type cover or
faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box,
plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be
set back of the ﬁnished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.).


2/8 = 1/4...


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