# How To Install Rigid Foam Insulation on Concrete



## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

*you call'd the wrong guys,,, have it either seal'd w/( silicone/polysulfide ) OR epoxy inject'd by someone who knows what they're doing. *

*most ( not all ) p-creters know as much about conc repair as my dentist :laughing: he fills cavities but is dumb as a box of rocks w/driveway-pool apron-lanai-sidewalk,,, there absolutely NO reason for that method 'cept they don't know any different, are repeating what some dumbbell back at corp said, OR are guessin',,, then again, they pay their $$$ looking for quik profits & don't really bother to educate themselves further,,, IF your crk extends down to the footer, excavation'll be nec.*

*guys like that give us ALL mechanics a poor name as we're all painted w/the same brush,,, icri.org would be a good place to look ( international concrete repair institute ).*


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

yesitsconcrete said:


> *you call'd the wrong guys,,, have it either seal'd w/( silicone/polysulfide ) OR epoxy inject'd by someone who knows what they're doing. *
> 
> *most ( not all ) p-creters know as much about conc repair as my dentist :laughing: he fills cavities but is dumb as a box of rocks w/driveway-pool apron-lanai-sidewalk,,, there absolutely NO reason for that method 'cept they don't know any different, are repeating what some dumbbell back at corp said, OR are guessin',,, then again, they pay their $$$ looking for quik profits & don't really bother to educate themselves further,,, IF your crk extends down to the footer, excavation'll be nec.*
> 
> *guys like that give us ALL mechanics a poor name as we're all painted w/the same brush,,, icri.org would be a good place to look ( international concrete repair institute ).*


Thanks for your reply. I am still having the crack injected as you had suggested in another post, and not necessarily by Perma-Crete. I figured if they won't warranty the work because of lack of insulation, others won't as well (though I may be completely off the mark on that).

What I'm saying is that I want to install exterior insulation around the entire house on top of fixing the crack and any other issues. 

I have noticed very fine cracks at other places and I don't know if this is normal (house is 32 years old) or if its something that can get worse. So I wanted to dig down (problem is, I don't know how far down I need to dig, which was one of my questions), seal up any little cracks, apply a watertight seal paint, put the 2" rigid insulation, fill the hole back up and apply some nice thick plastic graded away from the house.

So are you saying I should not waste my time adding exterior insulation around the entire house?

I've gone to icri.org as you suggested last time. I click on the "contact ICRI" but I don't see an email address.

So I checked the "Chapters" section and the only chapter in Canada in in Quebec. I'm going to look in the phone book and see if any of the companies around here are members.Thanks again*.**
*
EDIT: I think I found my answer:

as per http://www.engext.ksu.edu/henergy/envelope/basement.asp*

**How deep should foundation insulation extend below grade?*
I_nsulation should extend all the way to the footing. A heated basement will always lose heat through its walls, no matter how deep they are.

Although heat loss to the soil near the bottom of the wall is not great, heat is conducted up the wall to colder soil near the surface. Insulating the entire wall reduces this bypass heat loss.
Also, keep in mind that the cost of the additional insulation is relatively small compared to the cost of framing and finishing the wall

but then, a wiki article, as per _http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Installing_building_insulation says :
*Insulating exterior of foundation*

Ideally, a home should have poured concrete walls, waterproofing, and 2-inch rigid foam panels. Complete retrofit foundation insulation may be prohibitively expensive. Since most of the heat loss from a foundation occurs where the foundation is above grade and exposed, you can partially insulate the foundation wall and still have good results:

So Basically, I guess I can insulate just below the frost line and I should be ok :huh:


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## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

epoxy crk injection's another of those specialty items,,, there are companies who do both but its rare,,, 'insulation' is immaterial to any warranty/guarantee as you'll find out when you have an experienced mechanic do the work,,, we'd pick hydrophyllic polyurethane.

you post'd the fnd's conc,,, you could use const adhesive & stick on the insulation board but i've never done it NOR have i seen it done,,, whatever adhesive you use ( maybe even acrylic latex caulk ), just be sure it won'd dissolve the board,,, wouldn't you then have to have protection for the insulation board, too ? ? ?

those very fine crks're probably not an issue but dig a bit & see what that reveals,,, any water in the bsmt othern'n from the lge crk ? ? ?

(thoroseal/drylok) mtls're good for positive-side wtr-proofing but not negative-side (inside) :no: our code calls for 5' leader drains from downspouts but the (farther-further) you can direct water from the house the better.


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

yesitsconcrete said:


> epoxy crk injection's another of those specialty items,,, there are companies who do both but its rare,,, 'insulation' is immaterial to any warranty/guarantee as you'll find out when you have an experienced mechanic do the work,,, we'd pick hydrophyllic polyurethane.
> 
> K, thats really good to know... Thank you. So hydrophyllic polyurethane seems to be the way to go. I've got that written down :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


.....


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## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

"thoroseal/drylok are cementitious materials applied to surfaces to prevent wtr intrusion,,, if you know xypex, that's a far superior product impo as it IS a penetrating (crystalline) liquid,,, thoro/drylock's are surface bonding coatings - again, impo.

sounds as if you're on top of the situation & much (further/farther) ahead of the p-crete guys [ which isn't difficult for the majority of 'em :laughing: ]

{ wish i knew the difference 'tween further & farther  }


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

yesitsconcrete said:


> "thoroseal/drylok are cementitious materials applied to surfaces to prevent wtr intrusion,,, if you know xypex, that's a far superior product impo as it IS a penetrating (crystalline) liquid,,, thoro/drylock's are surface bonding coatings - again, impo.
> 
> sounds as if you're on top of the situation & much (further/farther) ahead of the p-crete guys [ which isn't difficult for the majority of 'em :laughing: ]
> 
> { wish i knew the difference 'tween further & farther  }


:laughing: Thanks for the confidence. I'm hoping once I eliminate the drainage issues on the property, the rest will fall into place. I'm attempting to be proactive rather than reactive, which is the reasoning behind adding the 2" exterior insulation. 

Thanks again for all your help/input. especially on the hydrophyllic polyurethane + xypex recommendations


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## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

go suck an egg :laughing: sorry - meant to post ' go & leak no mo' ! ! ! ' :huh:

there's a chance those clowns knew their stuff but, bas'd on your post, i wouldn't bet even yomama's $ on it - dick's another story :yes: 'cause he's an engineerer & has got bucks :thumbup:

seriously, post what happens when its all done ! best !


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

yesitsconcrete said:


> go suck an egg :laughing: sorry - meant to post ' go & leak no mo' ! ! ! ' :huh:
> 
> there's a chance those clowns knew their stuff but, bas'd on your post, i wouldn't bet even yomama's $ on it - dick's another story :yes: 'cause he's an engineerer & has got bucks :thumbup:
> 
> seriously, post what happens when its all done ! best !


 
Hey, I was going to stay out of this one, looked like you have it handled!:whistling2::thumbsup:

I am glad you stated NOT to use Drylock or Thoroseal on the inside though. I hope more people can read that!:thumbup:


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## earthad1 (Apr 1, 2008)

:thumbsup:

Last December, I ended up excavating the entrance walls to the footer and having the crack injected and entire structure wrapped with a waterproof membrane, got a concrete floor poured w/ a drain to the weeping tile.

This summer, I Installed 2 corrugated drains /w sock with 8" of crush underneath. One, which divide my property and my neighbors property and drains to the road and into the woods. The other runs parallel with the entrance wall and dumps into the main drain going into the woods.

This weeked, I installed a second drain on the other side of the wall and and regraded the entire area.

I'll post photos.

The basement is dry as a bone! Absolutely not a drop of water, even after a few rainy nights of 40mm or more of rain :thumbup:


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