# Bathroom Demo 2013



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Your do plan on removing all if it, right?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Oh yes. All of it.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Removing sink, toilet and vinyl flooring


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Under the vinyl was 3/8 plywood which is removed, exposing the sub-floor. I think it looks pretty good, minus the water damage near the toilet.

Thoughts?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Ripping down drywall... Shout out to Great Danes in pic 3


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Wax gasket or rubber gasket? Is this bathroom in your basement?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

No, this is the master bath in the master bedroom, which I use as an office. It had a wax ring.

I have a question which is posted in the Plumbing section if someone here can help.

The toilet is on a 3" ABS line and it had an outside 4x3 closet flange. I read that I can cut off the top of the flange, leaving the rest on the outside of the line and then use a 3" inside flange.

But I also read this would cut off the diameter too much. What can / should I be doing here?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

After taking out the tile, the base was not screwed to the studs, anywhere...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Here are a few more pics of the shower all opened up.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

One bag of Roxul in. This stuff is great!!


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Contractor grade fan vs Nutone 130 CFM...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

130 CFM exhaust fan installed w/ video... The 90 deg elbow will be in the soffit attached to a 4" slotted and screened vent.

Exhaust Fan... Click Here to view


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Got up some drywall and put down new plywood over the existing 19/32.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Installed Tile Redy insert


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Had to move plumbing for the new shower pan.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

I'll have some better pictures later, but I was playing with the panoramic view on my phone...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Installed soffit vent for the bathroom exhaust fan. This is a 4" angel slotted vent with a grill to prevent larger bugs.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Trying to do my first level 5 finish...


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## captainawesome (Mar 26, 2013)

You do some good work Trucon. Very impressive!


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Thank you!! I appreciate you looking. Welcome to the forum.


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Is that just primer on the walls, or is that a texturing product? If its primer, how many coats is that?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

No, its a skim coat of drywall compound (green lid)


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## SmithTitos (Dec 27, 2012)

post the pics of your newly renovated bathroom


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

I'm working on it. I'm still trying to get this level 5 finish perfect before I prime the walls. Rest assure, I'll post a ton more pictures along the way!

Thanks for looking! Let me know if you have any questions.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Keep up the good work boss!!

You want a job?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Hey Eric.. I always said, if I ever start not enjoying the IT field, I would pick up a trade...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

1-2-3 applied to the walls last night. Once dried, it looks amazing on a level 5 finish!! No blemishes at all.

I will work on the ceilings today and post more later on.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Shower pan installed. Instructions called for roofing nails but I used galvanized screws with nylon washers for extra grab. 

Also installed drain with 100% silicone under the lip and around the outside. Waiting 24 hours for it to cure and then doing a water test...


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## Amateuralex (Mar 17, 2012)

Wow looks great, already giving me ideas for my own upcoming project.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Thank you!! That's why I post my projects. Hopefully I learn and people viewing learn and get ideas. Let me know if you have any questions or want pictures of anything.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Finished the Durock. Tomorrow I will tackle the seems! We're getting there!!


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Got the thinset and fibatape on the Durock. Tomorrow starts the waterproofing with RedGard.

I have a question about the thinset... Should I also tape and mud around the niche or should I leave it and just RedGard it?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Just redgard it. It will be seamless with that and more than 2x as waterproof as those niches are already tight to begin with when installed right.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Thanks Eric. Instructions say to just caulk around the perimeter. So I'll do that and once its cured, I'll RedGard the shower 2+ times..

Thanks!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Looks good except for one big mistake


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

He can't help it.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

This just turned into a Steelers hating thread... I can't help it, I'm originally from Pittsburgh. Isn't it worse to be a Cincy or Browns fan?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> This just turned into a Steelers hating thread


Didnt need this thread for that to happen.:boxing:


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Last time I checked, entrepreneurs weren't clamoring to open Bengals or Browns bars nationwide... Boooooom Headshot! :yes:


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

Looks good!

I have a question about the Tile Redy insert. Back on page 1 it looks like you have the lip screwed to the studs, but on page 3 when you have the durock up, it looks like it's installed after the durock so the lip sits on top of the durock. What did you actually do? I'm considering one of these for my project.

Thanks


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Hey Pete,

No, it just looks like it. The niche is screwed to the studs on all 4 sides. The niche is 1/2 inch thick and so is the Durock. They are flush against each other and NOT the niche over the Durock.


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## benleef (Feb 22, 2012)

Trucon01 said:


> Hey Pete,
> 
> No, it just looks like it. The niche is screwed to the studs on all 4 sides. The niche is 1/2 inch thick and so is the Durock. They are flush against each other and NOT the niche over the Durock.


Did you do any planning for the niche so that it ends up on a natural seam of the tile? I'm working on my basement bath and wondering how to go about properly placing the niche.

Thanks!


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Caulked all 4 sides of the niche as well as all the screws with clear silicone.

Benleef -- I didn't. When I map out the tile on the wall, I'll take that into consideration and try to make it look good.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Hey guys. Opinion time...

Top Left - Bleeker Beige
Top Right - Shaker Beige
Bottom Left - Cape Hatteras Sand
Bottom Right - Hot Spring Stones

Let me know what you think. All paint is Ben Moore and will be in their Bath and Spa style.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Hey guys. Opinion time...
> 
> Top Left - Bleeker Beige
> Top Right - Shaker Beige
> ...


Like this better!!!!!!


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Amazing, thats the color of my toilet...:laughing:


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

Thanksf or the info about the niche!

Are the top 2 colors dry in that picture? If they are, my recommendation is for either bototm one.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

No, they were all still wet when the pic was taken. I think the consensus from friends and family was the bottom right. Hot Spring Stones!


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

First coat of Redgard applied using a paint brush and a 3/4 Rough nap roller.

PS -- When applying, have good ventilation. Its fairly strong when applied to all your walls and you get it from all angles!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Guess you want to be guaranteed of no leaks behind. Best way is to plan like you are and have a good substructure.

Even though you are a Steelers fan...thumbs up


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

To say I over do things is an understatement... Pics of the third coat.  Who knows, I may do 1-2 more 

I do have a question though. Should I caulk the small gap between the flange and the beginning of the durock at the bottom?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Just double checking before I start painting.

I primed with:









My Ceilings will be with:









My Walls will be with:










Look good?


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Looks good to me.


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## handyman_20772 (Jun 28, 2006)

Keep the updates coming...looks good.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

2 coats of SW Duration to the ceiling. 2 coats of BM Bath and Spa to the walls...


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

You're a machine boss.

For those don't know Jeff personally (Trucon01), he is a passionate DIY'er and really appreciates people in the trades. He is pretty darn good too. I have been in the basement and seen the progress. 

If he weren't gainfully employed already, I would offer him a job.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> 2 coats of SW Duration to the ceiling. 2 coats of BM Bath and Spa to the walls...


I guess it looks good BUT for some reason I just can't get that excited over a painted wall...lol

Waiting for tile, sinks and other items to be installed.

Take your time and do it right.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Sure will!! Do you have any recommendations on the tile I should use?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Sure will!! Do you have any recommendations on the tile I should use?


Can't help you there. 

Im not into the design phase as far as color, texture etc.. schemes of any DIY projects. You know who makes the call on that.


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Ahh man you shoulda left it pink! LOL just joking. That was some vibrant pink there, nearly hurt my eyes to look at it. It looks really great though, cant wait to see more.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Installed the light and put on the duct register and the vent cover. Productive night!


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## skyroofers (Apr 11, 2013)

Trucon01 said:


> Installed the light and put on the duct register and the vent cover. Productive night!


nice! how high is it from the floor?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Installed the light and put on the duct register and the vent cover. Productive night!


Due to their proximity, looks like the exhaust fan when operating may be drawing out any heat or cooling from the register. But if thats the hand you were dealt then it is what it is.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

skyroofers said:


> nice! how high is it from the floor?


The middle of the fixture is exactly 7 feet from the subfloor. The bottom of the light bulb is at 78".


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> Due to their proximity, looks like the exhaust fan when operating may be drawing out any heat or cooling from the register. But if thats the hand you were dealt then it is what it is.


Unfortunately, it was. When the ceiling was open, I had to keep it in between the the joists in that area or else I wouldn't have access to the soffit to install the vent. I guess I could have done more framing between the joists above and placed it in the shower area and then GFi'd the entire circuit at the box...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Installed P&S timer switch and cut / laid out Ditra.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Installed P&S timer switch and cut / laid out Ditra.


Timer for exhaust fan was a good call. How are you doing you toilet flange? even with finished floor or on top of finished floor?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

I was reading a while back about the above or even with the finished floor topic. From everything I read, the consensus was on top of the finished floor, so that is what I was going to do. Correct?


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

I ended up putting my flange on top of the concrete and with all the buttering of the tiles to get them level it was about 1/4" - 3/8" lower. 

I used a thick wax ring and no problem.

It should have been a bit higher.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> I was reading a while back about the above or even with the finished floor topic. From everything I read, the consensus was on top of the finished floor, so that is what I was going to do. Correct?


This is probably a never ending debate. I vote for #1, on top of finished floor. Thats the way I did mine.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Any tool recommendation for cutting the hole in the tile around the flange?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Any tool recommendation for cutting the hole in the tile around the flange?


 cuts with the wet-saw and nippers to get that hole.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Trucon01 said:


> Any tool recommendation for cutting the hole in the tile around the flange?


4"blade in an angle grinder.


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## benleef (Feb 22, 2012)

I see you used Ditra on the floor. Would you recommend using it on a slightly out of level concrete floor (with some high and low spots)?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

123pugsy said:


> 4"blade in an angle grinder.


This.

You can score the top surface for that matter and nippers will break it clean at that point.

That or a wet tile saw.

You can borrow mine if you need one Jeff.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

benleef said:


> I see you used Ditra on the floor. Would you recommend using it on a slightly out of level concrete floor (with some high and low spots)?


I would probably ask that in the flooring section for an actual pro, but here is what I say.

Ditra is not used as a leveler. That said, either level the floor with SLC prior to Ditra or use thinset when setting the tile (depending on how out of wack you are)


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> This.
> 
> You can score the top surface for that matter and nippers will break it clean at that point.
> 
> ...


Thanks Eric!! This won't be my only project, so I had planned to buy all of this stuff anyway. Looks like my tool list is a Nipper, tile cutter and angle grinder.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Got the Ditra down on the floor with Modified thinset. A new respect for the pros who do this every day!!!

Tips:


Get a larger trowel so you can scoop the thinset out with the end! I didn't and had my whole hand covered.
Have a damp sponge ready to clean off the walls from thinset.
Have a float handy to press down the Ditra.
Newbies... Have patience!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Nicw color. I knew you'd come to your senses.

Anyway when you need to drill thru the tile to set your flange, I bought a 4 piece set of Bosch tile/glass bits. 

Put small piece of tape on tile where you want to drill to stop bit from skidding.

Take some playdough or plumbers putty and form it into like a 1 inch diameter ring. Put the ring of playdough/putty over where you want to drill the hole and put some water inside the ring. Then start drilling.

The playdough/putty will contain the water like a dam and the water will help keep bit cool.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Starting to lay out the tile... The way its looking, I will have a small, maybe 2-3 inch piece on the back wall. To make it look more proportioned, should I cut the first row of tiles in half (12 in tiles) so the first and last row are similar in size?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Starting to lay out the tile... The way its looking, I will have a small, maybe 2-3 inch piece on the back wall. To make it look more proportioned, should I cut the first row of tiles in half (12 in tiles) so the first and last row are similar in size?


If you adjust by removing the 1st row you will have about 15" left. Split that between 1st and last row and each will be about 7.5"

Will look better than a small 3" piece at back row.

In my opinion.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Cut and layed out all of the tile except for the piece around the toilet. I'll cut that piece and finish the tile tomorrow.

I cut off 4.5 inches from the first row to make the first and last row look similar. Thanks!!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Cut and layed out all of the tile except for the piece around the toilet. I'll cut that piece and finish the tile tomorrow.
> 
> I cut off 4.5 inches from the first row to make the first and last row look similar. Thanks!!


 
oooh a full piece covering the commode hole...makes it a little tougher to cut that hole...do post when you have that fitted over it


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> oooh a full piece covering the commode hole...makes it a little tougher to cut that hole...do post when you have that fitted over it


Piece of cake to cut with a 4" blade in a grinder. :thumbsup:


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

123pugsy said:


> Piece of cake to cut with a 4" blade in a grinder. :thumbsup:


Not so far... Whats the trick with the grinder? I tried with a 4.5 Ryobi grinder with a 4" tile blade and as I was cutting, the whole end of the tile broke off...


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Not so far... Whats the trick with the grinder? I tried with a 4.5 Ryobi grinder with a 4" tile blade and as I was cutting, the whole end of the tile broke off...


how many pieces have you ruined so far...try drilling "pilot" holes around and use grinder to go from hole to hole


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

I like the hole drilling idea... I went and got that 4 pack of bits you showed me. I'll try it tonight.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Trucon01 said:


> Not so far... Whats the trick with the grinder? I tried with a 4.5 Ryobi grinder with a 4" tile blade and as I was cutting, the whole end of the tile broke off...


I didn't go right thru the middle so maybe I spoke too soon.
I did go quite far in leaving a very small edge piece.
Just hold the blade at about 30-45* angle so the cut is round and keep cutting a bit at a time around and around.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

123pugsy said:


> I didn't go right thru the middle so maybe I spoke too soon.
> I did go quite far in leaving a very small edge piece.
> Just hold the blade at about 30-45* angle so the cut is round and keep cutting a bit at a time around and around.


your cuts look nice but with the cuts being along an edge it does make it a little bit easier. Trucon has to get into the interior on the tile piece without disturbing the edges.

Are those different colored tiles around the commode, shower and opposite edge or do some have a haze on them?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

This was an absolute b!tch to cut...


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> This was an absolute b!tch to cut...


Not bad. WHat method did you use.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

You main field tile is almost similar to what we did. did you think about throwing in a different accented tile in a few spots to break it up. This is what we did.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> Not bad. WHat method did you use.


Ryobi angle grinder and patience...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

What are the best screws to get to secure the flange to the floor?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> What are the best screws to get to secure the flange to the floor?


I used the tile bits to drill pilot holes thru the tile then #12 flat head wood screws to go into subfloor.

Im assuming your subfloor is wood or on you on a slab?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

ANd of course the screws were stainless.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Yea, I'm on top of plywood. Cool, as long as they won't rust!! Thanks


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> your cuts look nice but with the cuts being along an edge it does make it a little bit easier. Trucon has to get into the interior on the tile piece without disturbing the edges.
> 
> Are those different colored tiles around the commode, shower and opposite edge or do some have a haze on them?


You're right. I also had an easier cut as I went around the flange so much larger radius.
Some of the tiles were dusty in the pic.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> I used the tile bits to drill pilot holes thru the tile then #12 flat head wood screws to go into subfloor.
> 
> Im assuming your subfloor is wood or on you on a slab?


Correct?

$1.56 
 Crown Bolt #12 x 2 in. Stainless Steel Flat-Head Phillips Drive Wood Screw


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

those will hold that flange nice and sturdy


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

When I go to grout the tiles, should I grout the line between the tile and the pan? Or should I leave that alone and just fill it with caulk?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Either or. 

Some say use caulk because it will have a little flexibility against the 4" riser coming up. Either way you want something in case of a leak you dont want the water seeping under.

My install was a little different. I had to reposition some drainage below so when I removed everything for the tile guy I just left everything open(but plugged like below) until he was done.

In post 71 you can see the tile guy just did around the hole in the first floor bathroom for the toilet. I installed the long sweep 90 into the flange after the tile was set.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Finally got around to finishing the tile... I will grout tomorrow afternoon.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Just a tip for what its worth. Use the 5/16" hold down bolts for the toilet to flange. They are a little bit meatier than the 1/4" ones and maybe a dollar or two more expensive. 

Secure the bolts to the flange with xtra washers and bolts. This way the bolts are secure and wont move around when setting the bowl.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

It is a good idea to use a nut and washer to hold the closet bolts to the closet flange. This will ensure you do not knock the bolts over when installing the toilet and it will make it much easier to remove the bolts in the future.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Perfect. I'll go get them today along with the screws for the flange to the floor.

Thanks!!


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

Looks good!

So the flange gets glued to the 3" pipe down below, but is held to the floor itself with screws, is that how it goes?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Yeah, that is how mine will be done. Only mine is a 4" PVC


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

First pic is cleaning the joints before the grout. All other pics are with the grout complete.


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## REXAMUS (Jul 20, 2011)

Looking good.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Looks good. WHat happened to this tile? Or is a vanity going to be over it?


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> Looks good. WHat happened to this tile? Or is a vanity going to be over it?


It had a Browns logo on it... Had to be scrubbed! :laughing:

That is just a shadow, right above there is the drain line for the sink coming through the wall.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Waiting another day or so to do more work. Letting the grout fully dry before I seal it so I don't trap moisture... I'm slightly wetting the grout each day so it drys slower and harder.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Went to HD to pick up more bathroom supplies. New door (25x80), door knobs, TP holder, towel rack. Kohler Mistos series, very modern.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Door, trim and transition installed.

The door is a 24x80 Jen-Weld split casing. This is the first time I've used a 2 piece jamb before. It was OK, but I prefer 1 pieces much more...


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Trim and vanity are installed.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Pictures of toilet, mirror and accy's installed!!! Door also has 2 coats of ultra white on.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Faucet installed (Delta)


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Trucon01 said:


> Pictures of toilet installed!!! .


Now sit down and enjoy...lol


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