# Should Primer be Tinted on New Drywall?? My painter says no.



## Pete33 (Jul 27, 2012)

I have talked to a painter who I may use to paint my new construction home and sugested that he tint the primer to somewhat match the color of the finish coat. He said that I would be better off Not tinting the primer, and using white only. The finish color will be on the lighter, neutral side. Is he correct?

What is the best way to cover the walls in a qualty manner on a new house that I plan on living in for the next 25 years?

He plans on using Sherwin Williams products. Whish SW paints/primers would be best suited for new walls?

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

The correct way is one primer 2 finish coats. In a lighter color- any quality paint will cover in 2, so not needed. For deeper colors or hard to get like yellows and reds it is very important-


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

a regular white new drywall primer is the stuff to use. if you plan on painting a room a dark or really bright colour that is a ultra deep base paint then a tinted primer is recommended when mixing the colours at the paint store the computer will tell you if one should be used and how much tint to go in to get the best coverage possible.


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

yup..I just had this discussion with my SW guy. He said you tint when laying certain dark colors over light colors.


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## dogris (Dec 8, 2007)

Except in certain situations, I always tint the primer toward the finish color.
In your case I would tint the primer.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I didn't like dumping too much pigment in primer. Among other things it sometimes made it difficult to see if it was a light color. I usually did about 40-50% of the finish color formula.


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## dogris (Dec 8, 2007)

sdsester said:


> I didn't like dumping too much pigment in primer. Among other things it sometimes made it difficult to see if it was a light color. I usually did about 40-50% of the finish color formula.


Correct!
General rule of thumb is 50% full formula.

Oh. and if the finish coat formula calls for white tint, I exclude adding the white to the primer.


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## Faron79 (Jul 16, 2008)

Either way is correct.

DON'T fall into the fallacy of believing that tinting a primer will "save" you a finish coat though!!!

Optically, there's no benefit to tinting a primer under lighter/MEDIUM colors....ASSUMING....that the paint is being applied correctly. Too many people push paint too far, increasing the odds of paint "holidays".

If you can afford it, stay away from low-end PVA drywall primers! Primers in the Zinsser 123 class are much better.

Faron


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## ChrisDIY (Feb 1, 2010)

dogris said:


> Correct!
> General rule of thumb is 50% full formula.
> 
> Oh. and if the finish coat formula calls for white tint, I exclude adding the white to the primer.


I used this formula until I tried Behr Premium Ultra with primer in the paint. It's now my favorite paint. If you have to use SW tint primer. As also stated apply all the proper coats.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

ChrisDIY said:


> I used this formula until I tried Behr Premium Ultra with primer in the paint. It's now my favorite paint. If you have to use SW tint primer. As also stated apply all the proper coats.


 

primer IN the paint:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::no::no:


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

If you have a good painter lined up---let him or her decide on the methods and paints to use.

A primer has certain qualities that a finish paint does not possess---so a sererate prime coat is a pro painters first choice---

Primers are thinner that top coats--they dry more quickly--sands well-(new work will have drywall dust and other crud stuck into it)--and is flat for proper bonding of the top coat.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> Primers are thinner that top coats--they dry more quickly--sands well-(new work will have drywall dust and other crud stuck into it)--and is flat for proper bonding of the top coat.


Primers might be marginally thinner than paint but there are times when a high build primer is just what is called for. Something like BIN, one of the best stainblocker/primers out there for special situations, is much thinner than most paint. 

There is no such thing as birth control and paint in one---unless she really does not like the color or you took months to paint so she could know she really does not like the color. :no: There is no such thing as cream cheese and salmon spread and paint in one. :no: There is no such thing as mocha latte grande and paint in one unless you spilled into a 5er. There is no such thing as stainblocker, primer and paint---or even just primer and paint--- in one. :no: BEHR is behrly paint at all which is why pros do not use it. If it what it claims to be, they would be lining up like anybody else.:wink:


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I was trying to be nice and not slam Behr paint---I won't touch that brand for many reasons---

I do think,if you have a good ,experience painter, that the final decision on brands of paint and methods of application be left to him or her.

You want a great paint job---dictating products and methods to the painter may ruin that---

You could loose a good craftsman that way----I walk away when a potential customer starts to tell me how to do a job and those dictated include products and methods that I won't use because I know better ones.


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## ChrisDIY (Feb 1, 2010)

Not to take over his thread but I am now confused as to the purpose of primer? I thought it was to: "allows finishing paint to adhere much better than if it were used alone."

I've used both combinations, but traditional primer, usually tinted, on drywall as the OP questions stated. Just a DIYer so learning as well... 

I cannot "see" anything in the Bear (sp) finish that makes it inferior? What should I be looking for? I wouldn't use it on wood or metal either.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Primers seal new drywall quickly and allow for a quick sanding before the finished paint surface--

Also the flat nature of primer makes a good surface to apply drywall compound to touch ups--a finish paint might not allow that---

Primer is usually cheaper than finish paint---Three coats of paint are always required for a top quality paint job--one to prime and seal--two top coats for even sheen---

At $30 or more for a good paint---why use it to seal the new work when a fine primer can be purchased for less.

I don't like Behr paint for two reasons--low solids count---making for poor coverage---

And An overly thick base--causing difficulty cutting---won't flow out of the brush without thinning--
and uneven rolling---won't flow out of the roller evenly--leaving thick areas that can sag and thin 'holidays' as you finish the application.

If you can get an acceptable finish with Behr---you will soar to 'expert' level finishes when you switch to a good brand.


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## ChrisDIY (Feb 1, 2010)

Only drawback the SW near me has bankers hours...


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Same here----but I usually start early in the morning---

If cheaper paint gave me a good job I would use it--paint and labor are all included in my price---

But I always end up at Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams--because at the end of the job the work is faster,better and ultimately cheaper,using the more expensive paints.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Primers have many different purposes but fall into some general categories:

Stain blockers
Inhibitors
Sealers
Primers
Underlays

You may find products with a couple of these characteristics but be wary of any claiming to do all and always of those claiming to be primer and paint in one. Such products only exist for the unsuspecting public that wants magical things like one coat coverage---which used to be the hot marketing phrase.

Generally primers can be found to provide maximum adhesion to a surface and/or to provide an even base for finish coats. Primer/underlays for enamels, for example, not only assist with coverage but provide a beautiful surface for near brush stroke free finish coating. 

In addition to usual applications where you need to seal new surfaces like drywall or wood trim, alkyd primers are great equalizers when switching between oil based and watebased products. You can put just about any finish over an alkyd primer. 

There are also specialty primers like those self-etching for metals or for oxidation resistance. You will see discussions about restructuring sort of primers like Gardz used for things like damaged drywall surface layers and BIN for sealing hard to resolve stain issues like homes that had heavy smokers.

As mentioned, except for specialty primers, primers tend to be cheaper than quality finish coat paint so there is a practical reason for using them rather than applying extra coats of finish. 

There are several on this site that refer to primers as problem solvers and there is no more true statement IMO.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

ChrisDIY said:


> Only drawback the SW near me has bankers hours...


Kind of weird. They must not be doing much contractor business. Have you asked if they will deliver? Would a delivery be safe if you are not home?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

More like supply house hours--Open very early and close at 6;00 on some nights---


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