# Both sides of a switch are hot?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That might have been a switched outlet-------someone failed to break the tab on the outlet that would separate the constantly powered side from the switched side---Should not be hard to trace---Mike---


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## jlmran (Feb 8, 2010)

Do you have access to the service panel which services this switch? If yes are your circuits labeled? Did you disconnect the power before you removed the switch?


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Do you own this building? Or are you renting a space/apartment?
If the latter you should NOT be touching the electrical there. Call the landlord.


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## rditz (Jan 6, 2011)

is there a neutral in the switch box?? have you measured between the red and the black?? what do you get?? 120V or 240V


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## thadsaab (Nov 12, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> That might have been a switched outlet-------someone failed to break the tab on the outlet that would separate the constantly powered side from the switched side---Should not be hard to trace---Mike---


I agree, probably supposed to control a half-switched outlet. Often it's the outlet closest to the switch.


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## dingyibvs (Feb 5, 2011)

jlmran said:


> Do you have access to the service panel which services this switch? If yes are your circuits labeled? Did you disconnect the power before you removed the switch?


Yea, I did, but of course I had to switch the power back on to test it after removing it.



Speedy Petey said:


> Do you own this building? Or are you renting a space/apartment?
> If the latter you should NOT be touching the electrical there. Call the landlord.


Well, it's a condo in a building and my roommate owns it. He's fine with me testing the electrical stuff, but I suppose maybe the condo management can help too?



rditz said:


> is there a neutral in the switch box?? have you measured between the red and the black?? what do you get?? 120V or 240V


There's a green wire hooked up to a a screw inside the switch housing, and I think that's a ground so that's what I measured each wire against. When I measure between the red and black I get 0V no matter what. I think the two wires are shorted somewhere else.



oh'mike said:


> That might have been a switched outlet-------someone failed to break the tab on the outlet that would separate the constantly powered side from the switched side---Should not be hard to trace---Mike---


Thanks, I'm gonna take apart the outlet near it and see if that's the case.


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## dingyibvs (Feb 5, 2011)

YES! I fixed it! It's exactly as you guys said, somebody forgot to break the tab between the two outlets in a switched outlet. I first took a look at the nearest one to the switch, but it was hooked up normally with a power(black), a neutral(white), and a ground(green). However, I did notice the tab you guys talked about connecting between the two outlets' neutrals and powers, so I figured the most likely culprit is still a short there and went on to check out the other outlets in the room. What do you know, one of the outlets is hooked up exactly like that with an extra red wire that's connected via a tab to the other other outlet's black power wire. I removed the tab and voila, I no longer have to walk all the way to my bed to turn on the light!

Thanks a ton guys!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That is surprisingly common---I always suggest that a person leave the old outlets on the floor under the one that was replaced--until the system has been tested.

A 240 dead short can happen if the switch and outlet are on different legs at the breaker box---
--That will add some excitement to the job!


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