# What's the best way to remove Plaster/Lath walls and replace with Drywall



## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

First: I have not seen those particular inter-locking ceiling tiles in years, Grandpa's house had them as did many other homes in that neighborhood. Re: Your question- -My son bought a house built in 1921 which had the same problems in some rooms. We decided to remove the plaster rather than attempt any repairs as the damage was extensive. ALL wall studs were true 2 x 4's, rough cut. These plaster walls were based on the metal lathing. The best thing I found to remove the walls was a carbide grit tipped blade for my "Saw-zall" which would cut through the plaster and the metal lathing, and do many cuts. I cut between the studs, on 24" centers by the way, and removed large hunks of material. Then we just tore off what was left on the studs. The insulation on the exterior walls was just old newspaper crumpled up and stuffed in there. We added 6" thick fiberglass, then the drywall over that, hanging horizontally. His had plaster ceilings which, Thank Goodness, were not damaged so we left those alone. The finished rooms turned out very good, but a lot of work to get there. Good Luck.


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks Thurman. The same thing has happened with this house. The walls are bad and the ceilings are okay. However I feel it would be best just to go ahead and replace the ceilings at the same time so its not something I will have to deal with later. And if I replace ceilings with drywall it will be much easier to install new lighting and receptacles.


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## LIHR (Jan 18, 2011)

Yep, it's nasty demo work but when it's all behind you it's well worth it.

I've found that removing the plaster in the largest chunks possible works well, then remove the lath last so you can bundle it. It's very dusty nasty work and don't cheap out on the lung protection. Purchase good masks with replaceable filters. It will be money well spent and you will use them for all your remodel work. 
Another demo trick to hold down dust is to use spray bottles adjusted to a fine mist. Spray as you go and install one of those cheap square box fans in the window with a cheap 24" square blue filter on the backside. It will capture some debris and will keep good relations with your neighbor. 


Once completely removed you will have the opportunity to repair any water damage, straighten walls, run new electrical, install insulation.

One more tip. Now is the time to do all your demo since you are not living in the house. Get all the grunt dirty work out of the way. Have a container dropped off and have fun.


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## williamwiens (Nov 13, 2010)

gut it...gut it all...not in phases but all at once.

\ceiling tiles may contain asbestos...

Framing will more than likely have to be added as plaster/lath walls didn't matter if studs were on 16's.

That's a ton of water damage btw. Are you confident that it has been fixed properly?


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

gut it. 
plaster takes as much as 7 years to dry out once it has gotten wet. you dont want to patch that up and watch it continue toe be a problem years from now. i have been removing old plaster in my home in order to insulate, and leaving the lathe up seems to me to be more trouble than it is worth. if you want to get more insulation into the wall cavities, you can always fur out the walls to your desired depth.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Some tips; 

Cut the paint at the window/door casings and stool before carefully removing, to re-use later. Take precautions working with lead based paint on the woodwork = no sanding.

After demo, check at the window/door for proper thickness drywall = 1/2' with many cardboard shims from the box stores to bring the wall/ceiling to a flat plane. Rough cut original studs/joists with wood lath had varying thickness of plaster to make the final finish flat-- the studs are not, use a 6' level as a straightedge. Don't want to rip the window jambs/head because you forgot to plan ahead....

Plastic and old carpet, painters drops, tarps, on the floor with a final covering of 4' square tarps, over-lapping each by 2", drop the plaster, pull up the corners on each tarp, drop into can, etc. Remove lath, if wood, with same flat nosed long-handled shovel you used on plaster so you don't have to stand directly under the work for free lunch...

Use a medium density foam or blow-in, not low density with inherent convective loops; http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-buy-choose-fiberglass-insulation-90438/

Cover to protect the radiator fittings from "Whoops".....

Build a "chute" outside the window to the wheelbarrow below, if on second floor--- I'm to old for stairs.....

Gary


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so this is how i could tackle my demo as well! judging by his pics i would say my ceilings are plaster. they have distinctive lines that you can make out along the ceiling everywhere its not flat, as my ceiling has several angles


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## ThatDaveGuy (Dec 31, 2010)

Looks like you have a serious job there, I had to tear out old lath-n-plaster and it was a major PITA. I used one of those shingle strippers, looks like a flat shovel w/ teeth? Really grabbed the lath and pried it off in bigger chunks.


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks everyone for your suggested tools and ideas to save time. If there are anymore people with additional tips or suggested products to use please let me know. 

Also, has anyone used duralight drywall yet? I read that its much easier to install because it is lighter (easier for one or two people to manage) but that its stronger than standard drywall. 

Thanks!


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## bethomas (Jan 7, 2011)

psu i have used the ultralight drywall at home depot when i converted my loft into a bedroom and my father in law used it in his garage when we built a tray ceiling so the chevelle could go all the way up on the lift and park the vette under it. in both cases it has worked just as well if not better than standard 1/2" drywall, and is very manageable to move with one person around. they say it is 30% lighter and you can feel the difference. 

i would not hesitate using it again, just wish they had it when i finished my basement 2 years ago...

as far as the plaster/lath? tear it all down. i have done that on some older houses i have helped renovate... nasty, disgusting mess, but get out the BFH (Big F'n Hammer), sawzall and go to town. wear proper safety equipment and masks, otherwise you will be coughing black stuff up (i did one house in college and only wore a standard paper mask - wasn't enough really)

and watch out for the ceiling, most of those tiles contain asbestos, and you will probably want to bring someone in to take care of them ($$$$$)


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Lead based paint is another concern you may want to test for...


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

I will wear a bunny suit (coveralls) and a mask for lead and asbestos.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

For sure!!


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

Also, does anyone have experience with a drywall hoist/lift which holds it against the ceiling while a person screws it in? Is it truly a one person job or does it require two people. 

Thanks.


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## bethomas (Jan 7, 2011)

ceiling drywall can be done with 1 person and a lift/deadman, however it isn't fun (wait, is any drywall fun?) rent a lift if you can.

Brandon (who has to go home and finish mudding, sanding, priming and painting and trimming the new bedroom before super bowl party on sunday - ahhh no sleep for me)


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Never used one personally. There are many on this forum who have and I'm sure will reply. I'm actually considering getting on myself. As I get older and am taking on more repair type jobs that I really can't justify a helper for a full day, I figure it might be worth trying....


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sounds like Brandon's got his work cut out. Better use that setting compound.....


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## bethomas (Jan 7, 2011)

haha i got most of it done... new bed set for the little guy never showed up so we couldn't pick paint out for the room... so i got it all mudded, sanded and primed....oh well. and now the wife wants to repaint the whole downstairs too! sick of the colors i guess. my work is never done me thinks hahah

no, i just used dust control all purpose compound. but i was up until about 3-3:30 friday and saturday nights... ugh. can't do that anymore and get up early like i used to. i'm too slow to use a setting compound. when i'm done it looks damn good, i am just not very efficient at it.

party went well, except that the packers won.


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

Hey everybody I just found out that I have to do a temporary patch and paint job to these plaster walls so to make the bank happy. I haven't done any work on plaster walls before just drywall. What is the best and cheapest way to patch up the walls shown in the photos so it looks "livable"? 

I have to get them fixed this Saturday. 

Thanks for your help everyone!


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

What photos???


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

*Photos of Plaster Damage (from previous roof leak)*

Sorry about that... the photos didn't load before.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Use Durrabond---That's the dry bag mix----comes in--5--20 --45--and 90 minute set--

Use the blue top bucket (light weight) for the final coat (much easier to sand than durrabond)

The drywall lifts are great--especially for the inexperienced hanger.---Mike---


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## polishingpeanut (Feb 10, 2011)

*repairing or replacing lath and plaster*

Some great advice up there psubaron, 

Re, getting boards up to the ceiling. I think that the lifts are a good idea for diy, as you dont want any gaps, which can throw out the whole ceiling. They give you plenty of time to juggle into place and fix too.

Otherwise, I use a "dead man" prop as do may pros caught short handed! Use as a pair for easy job.

The only other thing I can point to is this guide to removing or replacing lath and plaster ceilings which will give anyone pause for thought, it really is that dirty!

We tear out and sometime repair loads of lath and plaster in the UK, and if I dare say so, it looks to be an even dirtier job here because our laths are split or riven which seems to break up the plaster more on removal. 

Guess that I would have to lend a hand on a stateside job to find out :thumbup: (free working holidays gratefully accepted, lol!)

Hope its going well!
Cheers


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## WillK (Aug 29, 2010)

Did somebody say demo is messy?

The pics below show the pile that fell from my ceiling when I pulled it down in one room, and the other shows my arm with dirt adhered to sweat - with a clean hand which had been covered by a latex glove for contrast.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Big job, first thing, get yourself a roll-off dumpster, put it in the driveway as close to the hose as possible, yes they are expensive but you will fill it with all that you have to remove. 

Make sure you get yourself some good breathing masks too, that dust is nasty, talking through experience.

Mark


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## psubaron (Feb 3, 2011)

Thanks everyone. Great advice.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

i just demoed part of the bathroom ceiling. it was messy to the messy power. unbelievable. i had on goggles, gloves and mask. make sure you cover the floor well to make clean up easier


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Around here Lowes and HD both sell "Bagsters". For a small bathroom demo, it should be enough. They're 4'x8'x30"tall = 3 cubic yard (good for up to 3000 lbs.). The bag costs around $30.00 to purchase. The last one I had picked up was $120.00 if I recall. Even a small (say 15 yard) dumpster is probably $250.00, so unless you want to do some additional "spring cleaning" you'll save a few bucks.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

psubaron said:


> I will wear a bunny suit (coveralls) and a mask for lead and asbestos.


That only protects YOU...and only for the duration of the demo. The lead rules are for protecting future inhabitants.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

psubaron said:


> Also, does anyone have experience with a drywall hoist/lift which holds it against the ceiling while a person screws it in? Is it truly a one person job or does it require two people.
> 
> Thanks.


I've done it easily with 8' sheets and struggled with 12'. Get a helper. While he's screwing in the first sheet, you're cutting and measuring the 2nd


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## SteelToes (Oct 5, 2010)

Be careful with a roll out dumpster , not a best thing to have on a black top driveway in the summer months.
In addition to fix the damaged plaster you need to remove all of the lose stuff and use a BASECOAT over the lath and finish of with gauging plaster.
Google red top or structo gauge.
Muding over crumbling plaster with durabond is only going to last as long as the surrounding plaster does.


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