# Painting Silicone Caulk



## Ariadne (May 9, 2014)

I too have vinyl windows amd clear caulk. No help to offer, but very interested in the solution. I was thinking of recaulking and using rustoleum to paint instead of latex.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Window installers will do that sometimes. Idk if some of them just don't know what kind of problem pure silicone can be or what, but I have seen it done plenty of times. Silicone is a really good caulk, as long as the surface it's on is not painted and will never be painted. 

There are really no easy solutions, removal is the best option. You can sometimes caulk over it with a paintable caulk, but that's not always feasible. You can sometimes get a quick drying primer like Bin to form a skin on top of it, but that's not ideal either because the paint will not really be bonded and subject to chipping off later on. 

Several threads here dealing with this issue.


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

Hi Jaymayspaint:

Thanks for your reply. If a window sill with silicone caulking cant be painted, should I assume it also cannot be stained? If not, wouldn't a non-stained or non-painted window be a mold or stain hazard? 

Would you have a recommendation for a great paintable caulk for after we pull up the silicone caulking?

Again, thanks.
Bill



Jmayspaint said:


> Window installers will do that sometimes. Idk if some of them just don't know what kind of problem pure silicone can be or what, but I have seen it done plenty of times. Silicone is a really good caulk, as long as the surface it's on is not painted and will never be painted.
> 
> There are really no easy solutions, removal is the best option. You can sometimes caulk over it with a paintable caulk, but that's not always feasible. You can sometimes get a quick drying primer like Bin to form a skin on top of it, but that's not ideal either because the paint will not really be bonded and subject to chipping off later on.
> 
> Several threads here dealing with this issue.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

You might want to try this trick,before you take out all the silicone.


http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-over-Silicon-Caulking


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

*Paint Over Silicone Caulking*

Thanks for the feedback Canarywood1. have a good day.
Bill




Canarywood1 said:


> You might want to try this trick,before you take out all the silicone.
> 
> 
> http://www.wikihow.com/Paint-over-Silicon-Caulking


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No stain or paint will ever stick to silicone.
There's 0 reason it should have been used unless it was around a bath tub.
Call them back and have them remove it.
Only should have been 100% silicone or siliconized caulking.


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

Hi Joe:

Thanks for the reply. In your post below, did you mean that the window caulking should have been *zero* percent silicone? Some of the silicone caulk actually seemed paintable but after a week or so the edges of the paint on top of the silicone began to recede. It looks jagged now. This is infuriating.:furious:

Bill



joecaption said:


> No stain or paint will ever stick to silicone.
> There's 0 reason it should have been used unless it was around a bath tub.
> Call them back and have them remove it.
> Only should have been 100% silicone or siliconized caulking.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

joe writes stuff like that all the time. We can't figure it out either.

Silicone shouldn't be used against wood. Like jmays, I have no idea why these siding and window installers think silicone is the right caulk to use. Exterior it's even worse. Personally I'd rip it out. jmays idea of caulking over it is intriguing though.

There are plenty of good paintable caulks. I use DAP Dynaflex 230 often. DAP also makes a caulk called Alex Ultra 230. My understanding is that it's basically the same thing, but with a mildewcide in it.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Caulking over silicone is really the same idea as putting a quick dry primer, or spackle over it. The goal is to get a paintable film to hold together on top of the silicone. 
If the silicone bead is not too large, another bead can be applied over it. As long as the last bead is able to adhere to the surface on both sides of the silicone bead, it can hold together on top of it and give you a surface that can be painted. The new caulk will not actually be 'stuck' to the silicone, but stuck to the surface around it. Caulk is so heavy bodied that it resists the tendency to separate on the silicone, and will usually dry solid. 
This is not an ideal solution since the final bead of caulk has a less than perfect bond and can more easily give way.


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

Hi Jaymayspaint:

You say that if the silicone bead is not too large, a bead of a paintable product could be added on top. In my case, the silicone isnt just between the wood and vinyl. It reaches about an 1/8 inch over the wood and vinyl. That seems like a large bead to me. Is it?

I'd also appreciate your opinion on these questions I forgot to ask:
-- Why are there 1/8" holes in the middle of the caulk bead as if it's pulling away from the edges
-- Should there be caulk around the entire vinyl window where the exterior vinyl frame meets the aluminum siding? Except for a single dollop of caulk at the windows' corners, there is no caulk around the edges of the windows.
-- Is all clear caulk silicone, therefore unpaintable?



Jmayspaint said:


> Caulking over silicone is really the same idea as putting a quick dry primer, or spackle over it. The goal is to get a paintable film to hold together on top of the silicone.
> If the silicone bead is not too large, another bead can be applied over it. As long as the last bead is able to adhere to the surface on both sides of the silicone bead, it can hold together on top of it and give you a surface that can be painted. The new caulk will not actually be 'stuck' to the silicone, but stuck to the surface around it. Caulk is so heavy bodied that it resists the tendency to separate on the silicone, and will usually dry solid.
> This is not an ideal solution since the final bead of caulk has a less than perfect bond and can more easily give way.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Bill, I'll chime in here and give my two cents'. Anytime 100% silicone is used as a water repellant layer around windows and doors, well, that's a sign that the windows were not installed correctly. I'm sure this is the angle Joe was after and he's correct. So, there SHOULD NOT be silicone caulk where the vinyl window frame meets the aluminum siding. All the weather/water proofing should have been done UNDERNEATH the siding with proper flashing and weather resistant membranes. Your aluminum siding should meet at the window in a "J -type channel". Aluminum is gonna have movement so that silicone is going to move eventually and fail which will allow rainwater in and around your windows.

At this point I guess your options are limited unless you have budgeted for having things done correctly. Smearing on more silicone is really just a temporary fix, but, is certainly better than allowing rainwater in.

Most clear 100% silicone caulk is UNPAINTABLE. There are some white SILICONIZED caulks that are paintable and they always say that on the label. 

There shouldn't be gaps in the caulking unless they left gaps on the sill area for condensation or other moisture to escape.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

HawaiiBill said:


> -- Why are there 1/8" holes in the middle of the caulk bead as if it's pulling away from the edges


Probably because it's pulling away from the edges  Or they just didn't put it on properly.



HawaiiBill said:


> -- Should there be caulk around the entire vinyl window where the exterior vinyl frame meets the aluminum siding? Except for a single dollop of caulk at the windows' corners, there is no caulk around the edges of the windows.


Normally the windows should be designed and installed to be mostly waterproof with proper flashing, etc.



HawaiiBill said:


> -- Is all clear caulk silicone, therefore unpaintable?


No.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

There are a number of paintable clear caulks

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/17/40/pss_seal_ap/overview/Loctite-Polyseamseal-All-Purpose.htm

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=14&SubcatID=3


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

Oil primer does a pretty good job over silicone.


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

Hey jeffnc:
Thanks for the links. The caulk aisle is overwhelming!
Bill



jeffnc said:


> There are a number of paintable clear caulks
> 
> http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/17/40/pss_seal_ap/overview/Loctite-Polyseamseal-All-Purpose.htm
> 
> http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=14&SubcatID=3


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## zman7777 (Aug 13, 2014)

Just keep trying to paint over it. Coat after coat will build upon itself and it will cover eventually. But it may take 5-10 coats...:whistling2:


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

Matthew,
I found some Sherwin Wms and Zinsser and Kilz oil based primer in a Google search. If I go that route, do you think the paint would remain adhered to the paint as well as if I had started with paintable caulk?
Bill



Matthewt1970 said:


> Oil primer does a pretty good job over silicone.


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

zman7777:

Hey there. I've noticed that this is true. So even if your suggestion sounds pretty damn funny, I think it works, no? :thumbsup:Is it just going to peel away on me eventually? :jester:

QUOTE=zman7777;1395086]Just keep trying to paint over it. Coat after coat will build upon itself and it will cover eventually. But it may take 5-10 coats...:whistling2:[/QUOTE]


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## HawaiiBill (Aug 26, 2014)

jeffnc said:


> Probably because it's pulling away from the edges  Or they just didn't put it on properly.
> Der dee dee ... just didnt put it in properly:whistling2:
> 
> Normally the windows should be designed and installed to be mostly waterproof with proper flashing, etc.
> OK good to know. Thanks, Bill


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

HawaiiBill said:


> The caulk aisle is overwhelming!


It is indeed.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

HawaiiBill said:


> Matthew,
> I found some Sherwin Wms and Zinsser and Kilz oil based primer in a Google search. If I go that route, do you think the paint would remain adhered to the paint as well as if I had started with paintable caulk?
> Bill


 aaahh, NO:no::no::no::no:


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## pfflyer2 (Oct 16, 2014)

You can paint 100% silicone. . Maybe.. here is what worked for me; after searching forums such as this one and finding out that all the experts are sure i am dumb for trying to paint it (long story). . .. i found that using flour dust over the top of the silicon seemed to work well. In my case, i blew on two coats of flour. Painted next day. .. stuck well. Our at least seemed too. Time will tell.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

:no::no:I don't think flour dust is the answer.:no::no:


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## Wildbill7145 (Sep 26, 2014)

Even silicone won't stick to cured silicone. There are situations where it's useful, but some are disastrous.

I painted for a couple a couple of years ago where the counter installers used clear silicone to seal the gap between the counter and painted wall. Basically locking in the colour behind the silicone which was clearly visible. Took the customer and myself hours and hours to remove it.

I've also seen houses where the homeowner used it to caulk every single bit of trim not knowing it wasn't paintable. What a complete nightmare.


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