# chimney leaking into attic



## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

If it is not being used for any heating appliance take the chimney out. plug all holes in the basement and have a roofer fix the hole in the roof.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> 1.) Is it a chimney chase I need? *Is that a DIY job?*


Ayuh,... That depends on how *Handy* you are,+ the Resourses you have available to use...

1st chore is getting Up there,+ having a Look at it... Measurements,+ accessing the situation kinda thing...
I've seen 'em all sorts a ways,...
Cast Iron covers that leave a flue in the middle,... Maybe it's called a chase, never heard it myself...
Mine is grouted from the outer edge to the flue,.. No metal at all...



> 2.) Given that its a non-use chimney, are there better solutions for a permanent fix to this leaking? Can chimney chases be fully closed, without a hole and chimney cap?


If you wanted, you could have a full cover cap built for it, if they're not already available...
Or,..
Like Grandpa Bud says, Just tear it down,+ cap it, possibly salvaging interior space inside the house....

While you're Up there, have a look at the pointing,... It could be in need of Repair as well....


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## 06bluez (Nov 3, 2009)

Here's one solution...










:laughing:


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## kelley4180 (Oct 2, 2009)

Bluez, I tried to talk my wife into making an attic koi pond, she wasn't game..... Good to see others have dealt with the same. 

So, I called Lowes who informed me "yeah, you need to have like an iron caster make one of those for you." 

I then called a fireplace and hearth store, they seemed clueless. 

Is this not a stock product at home centers?


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,... Find a Tinsmith or Steel Fabricator....


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## Cattman (Sep 1, 2009)

*Leak*

I'm having a similar problem. Mine is a double 8"clay flue inside of concrete block and then capped with brick on the exposure. Chimney is 25 years old and brick was replace 3 years ago due to severe spalling. It has good flashing and both flues have covers on them to keep birds out. The brick has began spalling again. I cleaned out all brick pieces and I caulked all exposed cracks on the brick and the 2-3 razor size ones on the chimney mortar crown and then gave it 2 coats of masonary waterproofer treatment. It was dry for 4 monthes and is now leaking again. I was up in attic this past weekend and used j channel and silicone caulk to attach it to the leaking side to channel the water out to the eave.

What's a permanent fix??


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Kelley- -maybe I'm not understanding the terms "chimney chase/pan flashing" as you are describing them. I'm certainly not familiar with "chimney chase" here. Would "pan flashing" be the sheet metal flashing alongside the chimney to direct rain onto the shingles? Homes here have been built with brick chimneys within the last many years, and the are not practical for heating here, just something to add value (and not in my opinion). What I would call a "chimney cap" would be to cover up the top of the chimney so rain cannot fall into the flue pipe. These are not shelf items anywhere here. We do have two roofing companies/sheet metal shops here that custom make them as needed. These are generally attached with metal strapping and screws into the chimney structure as they should never come off. This is what I have on mine, I actually consider the fireplace/chimney on this house wasted space. David


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## Grumpy (Dec 12, 2003)

If you are 100% certain that the chimney is no longer in use, simply knocking it down and disposting the brick is the easiest way to fix your problem. However if dangerous exhaust gasses vent into your attic you can kill yourself and anyone else living in the home. SO BE SURE FIRST.

Once the chimney has been removed you can simply board and roof over the area where the chimney was removed.

Is it a diy job? I don't know how handy or comfortable you are working on a roof. For my guys this is a simple 1 day repair job. 

Another alternative is to fabricate a metal chimney cap however this might not actually fix your problem. What I mean is, if the leak is actually coming through the brick, then the chimney cap won't help much. If the leak is coming through the chimney flashing then the metal cap won't accomplish anything. A metal cap can be fabricated by a good metal worker in less than an hour, while a chimney flashing job, when properly installed could take half a day.


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## kelley4180 (Oct 2, 2009)

Thurman, you're right, terminology is confusing. I've patched those terms together based on what I have found online. I may be completely wrong.

Here's some pics to help figure it out. 

I'm pretty sure the leaking is coming thru the exposed brick, and not the flashing (where the chimney meets the roof/shingles). 

One new added piece of info - one of the flues IS still operational, for the furnace. That gets hooked in in the basement, underneath the fireplace, so I didn't see it at first. Very glad I discovered that before starting a demo job. So, it looks like I need to keep the chimney, but get it leak proof. Tips?


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

Your concrete cap is no good right off the bat. It needs to be removed carefully and not knocked down the chimney. Your brick chimney appears so old that it is not lined by any type of flue, stainless or ceramic tile. You desparately need to get a good HVAC guy and a brick mason on the job. Unless you are already licensed in one of these fields this definitely not a DIY project unless you are planning to wake up dead some morning. Sorry about that!!!


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