# What's your "favorite" tip, when using "oil base" paint?



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,....... I'll tell you how I do it.....

1) Buy a Brush rated for Oil based paint.....

2) Pop the Brush into a plastic bag,+ then into the Freezer,..... Remove it,+ allow it to warm a few minutes before your ready to restart...

3) Wipe it up *Immediately*....... Use a rag with a minimal about of Solvent....

4) Tape off the Line you want,+ then remove the tape *Before* the paint dries......

5) Even Strokes......


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

(1) I mainly used purdy xl swan's for my oil. 
(2) You can leave your brush in the work pot with the paint and splash a little thinner on top so it doesn't dry out. Next day pull out your brush and mix the thinner into the paint. Of course that is if you have a safe place to leave it.
(3) I agree with wiping it with a small amount of thinner. Good safe practice is to keep your eye out for splatters and clean it up right away.
(4) I free hand it. A good way to do this is to keep a rag and your five in one, and if you get a little on the floor take your rag and wrap it around your 5 in 1, Run your 5 in 1 flat against the shoe or 1/4 round. It will clean it up very nicely, with no paint on the floor. 
(5) Even strokes, and make sure you pull your brush back over what you had already painted
Good luck.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

4. How do you paint 1/4 round that is very tight to a hardwood floor and can't get anything between the 1/4 round and the floor?

Don't paint it,it is not supossed to be painted anyway,it is part of the floor(most of the time)


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

chrisn said:


> 4. How do you paint 1/4 round that is very tight to a hardwood floor and can't get anything between the 1/4 round and the floor?
> 
> Don't paint it,it is not supossed to be painted anyway,it is part of the floor(most of the time)


Not here, very rarely i run across shoe or 1/4 round that gets stained.


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## mdancey (Dec 25, 2007)

chrisn said:


> 4. How do you paint 1/4 round that is very tight to a hardwood floor and can't get anything between the 1/4 round and the floor?
> 
> Don't paint it,it is not supossed to be painted anyway,it is part of the floor(most of the time)


I cringe when I see stained 1/4 round and painted base.....looks awful.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Bobrobert said:


> 1. What's the best type brush?


That answer will vary, as brushes tend to be a very personal thing
I use and recommend premium white china bristle brushes or similar
They are for oil specifically, and leave a smoother finish than the black chinas
Most painters I know that type, or use some type or variation of that, like OX hair or some other natural bristle

I do know some quality painters that use a premium nylon (for latex) brush




Bobrobert said:


> 2. What's the best way to avoid cleaning the brush from day to day while a project is on-going?


The best way by far is to clean them every day
Even every 1/2 day
I strongly recommend this



Bobrobert said:


> 3. How do you clean up drops when they land where they're not supposed to? (Especially on hardwood floors.)


Well, perhaps obviously the best way is to not get them there in the first place
Use premium quality drops, not the cheapos, paint will go right through those

But we all know it happens, so don't tell anyone this:
Oil drops wipe up better than latex drops....you just wipe with the rag that's always in your pocket while painting...you just have to keep an eye out and get them rather quickly
Latex is kind of a pain, oil wipes up in one wipe
...keep some thinner on hand for the ones you miss
(Also, the brushes are waaaaaay easier to clean than latex brushes...don't know why people think it's more of a pain...it's actually not!)



Bobrobert said:


> 4. How do you paint 1/4 round that is very tight to a hardwood floor and can't get anything between the 1/4 round and the floor?


Very carefully
I suppose you could tape the floor



Bobrobert said:


> 5. What is your process when actually applying the paint to get the best looking finish product?


Well, that's hard to say over the internet
It's actually hard to say in person too
It takes hands on training and practice to get the best looking finish

I can offer tips like don't over brush, use a light touch, use premium quality tools and paints


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## Bobrobert (Jan 8, 2008)

*THANKS for the replies and a couple more questions. (Pictures)*

Great suggestions and I appreciate all the replies. 

I spent today painting with oil for the first time, mostly baseboard in closets, and one bedroom, where my learning experience wouldn't show too bad. I've got to tell ya, I painted quite a bit with latex in past years, and after this first go at oil, I don't know why I have always been afraid of the oil paint. I'm no professional for sure, but this oil is easier than latex. It wipes up easier, and I actually liked the experience.

My 1/4 round (shoe) was put down by the flooring folks and was primed white, so I do need to paint it. 

At the paint store today the guy told me to put down this "blue tape" on the hardwood floor up against the 1/4 round. He said that if a spot of paint does get on the floor to let it dry completely and then pop it off with a putty knife. I like the "wipe it up now" suggestion better. 

I picked up a 2" black China Bristle brush and "as stated here in the replies" it doesn't work well to cut a line. I used my wife’s favorite 1" white bristle brush and it worked really well. I will go get a 1 1/2 white bristle brush for sure. Got to find what works best for me, which was also stated in the replies.

*1. WHAT IS A 5 in 1? Sounds like a handy tool. Is that the real name of it?*

*2. I've placed a decorative strip above the baseboard, so I'm painting about an 1 1/4 inch of the "tan" wall between the new strip and existing base. I'm thinking that I will need two coats to cover this part. MY QUESTION: Would you try to put the second coat on before the paint is entirely dry, or is it best to let it completely dry and then re-visit? *

If you read between the lines here I'm trying to get that second coat on without putting up all the painting stuff. *What's the best way?* I'm going to guess wait until its dry.

I've attached three pictures just to show you how it went today. One is a shot of the hallway where the new hardwood has been placed. I have three rooms of this type painting, and if you folks think of anything else to make painting next to hardwood more efficient on a "rookie" please pass it along.
As it stands I'm going to use the blue tape and take my time and be careful.

Thanks again………..


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## mdancey (Dec 25, 2007)

Hi Bob,

The wood floor looks great!!

When painting the trim in carpeted rooms I like to use a metal baseboard edger mine is about 2 ft long. There are strips of plastic on the market for this as well but I find them way to flexible and hard to work with. The edger should fit nicely under the baseboard not only protecting the carpet but opening up the whole baseboard for painting. Don't use too much paint on your brush and wipe the edger often.

Note about paint drops on a solid surface floor. The paint store salesperson was correct dried paint does come off easily though I wouldn't use a knife to do it. Your finger nail will work well and not scratch your floor. I also wouldn't tape off the floor before painting the 1/4 round. You run the risk of getting more paint on the floor than you bargained for. Just don't load up your brush too much and go slow....you'll get it. And if your brush does happen to hit the floor after it dries it will come right off with your finger nail.

Happy Painting!!

Mary


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Looks great!!!!

A 5 in 1 is called a 5 in 1 or a multi-tool...maybe a painters tools
But mostly a 5 in 1

Very useful, I' up to 38 real uses, so it should be called a 38 in 1


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

My 1/4 round (shoe) was put down by the flooring folks and was primed white, so I do need to paint it. 

I see in your first pic that is so. It would have been removed and replaced with quarter round that matches the flooring if it were mine,maybe it is a northern thing, although I live right on the mason dixon line 
. Maybe it is only correct in older houses,don't know


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## Bobrobert (Jan 8, 2008)

Hi Mdancey - Thanks for your tips... The wood floor was the first, and only one so far, that was put down by the floor company I used here in town. It is mahogany and we were a little leery about how it would look, as its multi colored, and it was a one shot deal. The camera flash brings out the "red color" way to much; it is really a lot browner than it looks. 

I believe I'm going to try your advice and skip the tape. I should also have mentioned that I have to paint next to ceramic tile in two rooms as well. I’ll assume it would be the same procedure as on the hardwood. 

Back to the wood floor; I want to attach another picture of this wood floor. Some of the pieces would make a beautiful gun stock, and I want to see if I can get the grain to show in an attached picture. We’ve had a lot of compliments on the floor, but mostly from family, so waiting for a “real” verdict from a traveling salesperson “after” I tell them NO! 

Again – The camera does funny stuff to the floor color; it is the same color in all the rooms, more brown that red, but I wanted to see if I could get the “GRAIN” to come across in an attached picture.

Thanks again for your advice.


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## Bobrobert (Jan 8, 2008)

Chrisn - Yeah I agree - It's all in what you like personally. I basically do what the "war department" likes. Life is easier that way. *But I'll tell you "right now" - I'm in charge of "OUTSIDE" the house.
*
You obviously play the guitar. I have always wanted to learn to do that. Tell you what, I'll teach you to fly fish, and you teach me the instrument.:thumbup:


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

slickshift said:


> Looks great!!!!
> 
> A 5 in 1 is called a 5 in 1 or a multi-tool...maybe a painters tools
> But mostly a 5 in 1
> ...


 
I agree slick, the use of the tool is by far past 5.

Bob, if you place a rag (like tee-shirt quality not paper) over the blade part, lay the blade flush against the bottom of the 1/4 round, and use the blade to pull up any paint that may of gotten on the floor. Now this technique is used for small amounts of paint. If you are getting a lot on the floor then tape might be the way to go. 
Bob yeah you should let it dry before putting on a second coat. I also agree that a white china brush is much better than the black, black tends to shed a bit more. Yet like i said i just use swans. Good luck let us know how it is panning out.:thumbsup:


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## evane (Aug 8, 2007)

Bobrobert said:


> Hi Mdancey - Thanks for your tips... The wood floor was the first, and only one so far, that was put down by the floor company I used here in town. It is mahogany and we were a little leery about how it would look, as its multi colored, and it was a one shot deal. The camera flash brings out the "red color" way to much; it is really a lot browner than it looks.
> 
> I believe I'm going to try your advice and skip the tape. I should also have mentioned that I have to paint next to ceramic tile in two rooms as well. I’ll assume it would be the same procedure as on the hardwood.
> 
> ...


What kind of wood is that, looks very nice.


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## Bobrobert (Jan 8, 2008)

Again, THANKS for all the tips that have been pouring in, they definitely are helping me get through this project with a lot less pain. 

TO EVANE: The floor is made of Mahogany. We were trying to pull 3 rooms together with the new floor and oak, birch, or the like, just didn't cut it. If it looked good in one room it didn't in another. We needed a mix of colors and settled on Mahogany because of the wide range of colors. 

I'll tell all you painters something........ I haven't been in a "bar fight" for over 40 years, and don't intend to ever be in one again, but if I do, the first thing I'm going to ask my opponent is; "what do you do for a living?" If he says he paints baseboard all day long, I'm going to run like hell, because he would "*have to be in great shape*!" 

I've completed the master bedroom and closet, and I just finished the guest bathroom. I have to say, other than making me ache like you wouldn't believe, it’s not too bad getting that paint on the baseboard. But it is a younger person's game for sure.

I have jumped right in and doing the painting free hand without the tape. I did try something that worked really well however. You all probably know about this, but in the guest bathroom there is a ceramic tile floor. I was able to push a sheet of 8 ½ by 11 paper under a lot of the shoe. In some areas where the shoe was touching the floor, I was able to lift it with a screw driver in the tile seam just enough to slide the paper under and not damage the shoe. It was very helpful in keeping the paint off the floor. Of course there were areas that I had to paint without a safety net but it went pretty good.

Thanks again, and will keep you posted on the progress.


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