# Advice for installing tongue & groove ceiling



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Hi all,

My first post here. This is a great forum!

I'm getting ready to install a tongue & groove ceiling in the kitchen being remodeled, and I would like to tap into the expertise of this forum. A few questions if I may for installing a t&g ceiling, which I have not done before.

There was a drop-ceiling in the kitchen, which has been removed, so I can attach the T&G directly to the 16" OC floor joists for the floor above. 

The t&g is pine 3/4" x 6" x 8' and 12'' lengths. 

I have an 18 gauge brad nailer that I plan to use to blind-nail the tongues, but nowhere have I been able to find what length brad to use? 

Would staples be better? Again, what size?

Is construction adhesive worth the trouble? (Expense is not an issue as I have plenty of liquid nails tubes already on hand.)

Also, the kitchen is on the dark side with just one window, so we are thinking about doing a whitewash finish on the T&G to brighten it up a bit. (finish will be done before the installation). Any tips and tricks for a clean and non-yellowing whitewash, that allows the wood grain to show through?

Thanks.

ZZZZZ


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

first thing ill mention that typically its required to have drywall behind panelling first for fire code reasons,, it acts as a fire stop and slows the transfer of smoke in the event of a fire.

as for nailing if your blind nailing through the tongue 1 1/2" nails will suffice.. where your using a 18 gauge 2 nails will provide more holding power.. yes you can use a stapler for blind nailing . and yes construction adhesive definitely helps.. you will have to face nail the odd piece here and there if the nails dont grab right off the bat especially where its overhead it will be more prone to sag


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

woodworkbykirk said:


> first thing ill mention that typically its required to have drywall behind panelling first for fire code reasons,, it acts as a fire stop and slows the transfer of smoke in the event of a fire.


Hmmm, 

I understand the need for drywall on walls, but on ceilings, too? 

I've watched a few How-To videos on U-Toob and read several articles too, but they all nail the T&G into the floor joists above, without drywall.


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

If you are using 3/4" stock, I would prefer 6p finish nails,(2") as you will find that the stock is not straight and is going to need to be pulled into place and held there securely whilst waiting for the next piece. Not comfortable with wire brads for this. Or you might consider 2" trim head screws. The adhesive is not necessary. Ron


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Have to check your local building code on that one.
I use 3/8 or 1/2" thick not 3/4. 3/4's really for flooring not ceilings in most cases.
I use a narrow crown pneumatic staple gun with 1-1/2 staples.
Brads have no heads so there's far less holding power.
Make sure to leave a small gap where it meets the wall for expansion.
Cut the starter pieces at random lengths so the seams do not line up or form what's called stair stepping.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Please do not use screws.
There going to split and distort the tongues so the next piece will not lock in.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

joecaption said:


> Have to check your local building code on that one.
> I use 3/8 or 1/2" thick not 3/4. 3/4's really for flooring not ceilings in most cases.
> I use a narrow crown pneumatic staple gun with 1-1/2 staples.
> Brads have no heads so there's far less holding power.
> ...


Thanks, you got me thinking. Home Depot calls this stock " 1" x 6" " and I just double-checked the actual dimensions. It's 21/32" thick (.65625"), not 3/4". This stuff is way too soft to use for flooring.


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

you can easily use 18 gauge nails if you nail in pairs using a stitch nail pattern that acts just like staples.. or you can use 16 gauge nails


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Re: using screws, have used trim head screws on several occasions, no worries. Staples give more holding power though. Your house, do what you want. My house I would not use the brads. Ron


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

We installed T&G ceiling in our living room and kitchen also. We white washed it, well actually it is a gray wash instead of white. Be sure to not allow the finish to build up in the grove or on the tongue, it can make it hard on you. 

We use water base polyurethane matt finish, glossy will show every imperfection in the wood. Water base poly is so easy to work with and it will not yellow. We stained before hanging but put the poly on after it was hung, believe me, it is easier that way, the poly can build up in the groove and on the tongue and make it hard to install.

Another trick is don't make the tongues super tight to the ceiling, it makes the next one hard to get in. Cut a short block and slide the grooved side onto the tongue to bump the T&G in place, that way you don't hit the tongue and mess it up.


----------



## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

yes drywall is required on ceilings as well as it stops the transfer of fire from floor to floor

regarding what bigjim stated about not using high gloss finish. hes absolutely right.. its the same reason painters always use eggshell paint on ceilings as it wont show defects.. with ceiling lights defects become even more pronounced on top of having any sheen


----------



## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

run a flatness check on your existing ceiling joists, not checking for level so much as checking for flat. run a string corner to corner, along the walls, etc. if there is much deviation, it seems to show up more with t&g. and you can't put more mud to hide it. i have had to go through and fir out with leveling shims at each joist. but it was well worth it to see a perfectly flat ceiling. 

staples will have more holding power than just brads.


----------

