# Cedar Vs. Pressure Treated????



## robertcdf

Are you wanting something to add value to your home, or do you just want something to set furniture on?


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## dobrien1030

No, Im not looking to really add any value, im just looking for a deck that we can hang out on, and enjoy our new swimming pool. In my area, the houses aren't really gaining any value, and I don't see it happening anytime soon. So basically whatever we decide to put in, will be for our personal use, and not to profit off it when we sell the house, which won't be for at least another 10 years.


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## christoff

cedar is more expensive and very pretty when first installed but when a couple of years go by it turns the color of driftwood, unless you stain it , then you are staining for a lot of years.(more money)
pressure treated is one color and is supposed to be warranted for a number of years. pressure treated still looks nice. just my 2 cents.
not to mention it's alot cheaper than cedar


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## Daniel Holzman

I really dislike PT for deck lumber, because it typically splinters, it will not take stain or oil well, and I find the green color ugly. Not to mention it is toxic. Cedar is very soft, not a great choice for a deck board in my book. I used ipe for my deck boards. Turned out there was an ipe wholesaler near me, and ipe was about the same cost as cedar would have been, and probably less than composite. But if you don't have a wholesaler nearby, ipe might cost you big time.


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## dobrien1030

Yeah thanks, but IPE doesn't fit in the budget, thats why were looking at treated.


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## CaptRandy

Cedar clear works well but does rot quickly. I replace more cedar boards a year than PTP. PTP must weather 6 months before treating. MUST BE CLEANED TO REMOVE MILL GLAZE. Once sealed properly lasts well in most environments. New wood is not toxic like the old stuff was.(you could sit on old ptw and have trouble standing up after some time)


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## woodworkbykirk

cedar is naturally rot resistant. i dont know how randy is dealing with so many bad boards... 

any time we do a cedar deck all the structure is done with pt, then the ribbon gets a 2nd layer of 2x cedar then all the decking is cedar. pt has strength but looks terrible, cedar is much nicer looking wood.. either way give both cedar or pt 3 years and the sun is going to bleach it turning it gray anyway unless its stained


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## cortell

I can't tell you how many PT fence posts I've replaced, completely rotted at the base. As for Cedar, I've had several people tell me not all cedar is the same--that cedars from certain parts of Texas will "rot within a few years". I don't know whether to believe them or not. My take on the whole thing is that any wood will rot given the right (bad conditions) over a long period of time. The key is preventing those conditions. E.g., never sink posts in the ground unless they need to withstand a lateral load (fence posts, e.g.,). And in those situations, make sure the post base does not touch soil; use a sono tube and keep the base of the post 4" above grade and round out the base to avoid water pooling. Yet another example: avoid doubling would exposed to the elements; moisture gets trapped in the space between. A final one: weatherproof the wood and maintain it regularly.

My point here is that if you build intelligently and do maintenance dilligently, the lifespan of the wood will be significant, and the difference between PT vs cedar is a non-issue. What does differ significantly between the two is aesthetics. You can't beat the look of a cedar deck.


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## CaptRandy

The problems with cedar are 3 different reasons. The builder uses grade 2 or 3 with many knots throughout the wood, they do not predrill the wood before installing screws close to the3 end of the board and the wood is 5/4 by 6. The PTP is 2 by 6 and even though not predrilled lasts longer. The rotted pieces begin at the ends where they split and allow water to enter. The customers are lapse on cleaning and sealing as well.

If the cedar is treated well and cleaned and stained regularly it does look much better than the PTP.


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## juryduty

Is there something available in between the two extremes where you live? Out in CA we have a lot of Douglas Fir that is about 1/3 the price of cedar or redwood. It looks good and is even moderately resistant to rot (needs to be sealed though).


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## cortell

juryduty said:


> Is there something available in between the two extremes where you live? Out in CA we have a lot of Douglas Fir that is about 1/3 the price of cedar or redwood. It looks good and is even moderately resistant to rot (needs to be sealed though).


Canadians have a product called Thermowood. It's SPF that's been "baked" to make it rot and insect resistant. I've not seen it in the states...at least not in Texas. Because it hasn't been treated with chemicals, it has the look of untreated wood. The cost is in between cedar and PT. Not sure why it's not generally available.


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## no1hustler

Have you checked cedar prices? I was surprised to see how reasonable it was in my location. It was only $.30+/- more per linear foot than pressure treated.


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## bubbler

no1hustler said:


> Have you checked cedar prices? I was surprised to see how reasonable it was in my location. It was only $.30+/- more per linear foot than pressure treated.


I just had a deck built. The contractor told me I could choose PT or cedar for the decking, the price to him at the lumber yard was the same.

I chose cedar because I didn't want it to splinter. I know I'll need to stain/seal, but that's OK with me.


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## dpach

I finished mine last fall. Used below-ground grade PT for all framing/joists and beam, but the cedar for everthing else.

I like cedar because you can walk barefoot on hot days and its cool, its warm on cooler days, and no toxins get on your skin from being PT.

Yes, it will have to be stained every couple years, but I used a product named SuperDeck which combines 4 different oils. Treating the deck will be as simple as applying a cleaner/brightener, hosing it off, and restaining (no scraping/sanding at all). 

I love the smell of the cedar. Yes, it is softer wood and the floor may get marred from chair feet, etc, but they can easily be replaced in 10 yrs.

As for cost, the cedar was about 50% more than the PT in my area, but since this should be a 20 yr deck with proper staining every couple yrs, the extra cost was worth it to me.


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## woodworkbykirk

thermal wood isnt readily availble here. its been shown on a couple renovations shows because the manufacturer is donating it to get it more exposure to the masses.. i have yet to see it any of hte big box stores or lumberyards.. similarly blue wood is shown on all the canadian made reno shows but to get it locally you have to special order it plus considering the cost ive yet to see it in use.. and the labour is more because the end cuts should be sealed.. which is what should be done with pt or cedar.. just clear pentox as opposed to green or soft green end cut


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