# fixing wall with drywall with plaster over it



## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

any pics?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

1/2 is a lot of mud! How big an area are you talking about?


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## bryanp22 (Nov 2, 2011)

Probably 26x10. Here is a pic


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You need a drywall patch section. You will want to cut out both sides to the next studs and squaring off the hole while you are at it will make it easier to match up and cut the patch. Then screw a piece of 2x the height of the patch to those studs. It looks like the wall was brought forward if I am seeing the pic correctly so you will have compensate for that. This will give you something to which you can screw the drywall patch as well as the studs already there. You cannot have the ends flapping though, hence the added blocks. Once the patch is screwed in place, tape and mud like you would regular drywall. You will want to fill in and skim coat the portion of the wall that tore loose when the vanity was removed too. You will then have to try and match the surface texture which was probably not plaster but some sort of drywall knockdown treatment (I actually cannot see texture in your photo so wonder if it was just roller stipple and paint?). Make sure you have a nice, large drywall blade---something like 6x12 or even longer the size of a mud tray.


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## bryanp22 (Nov 2, 2011)

They notched the wall for the prior 1x8 that had been used for the backer board. So basically I have to have the drywall flush with the plaster much as possible. So if has 1/2 inch of plaster on top of the original drywall I'll have to shim out the new drywall so the drywall is even with the existing plaster. If I just put a 2x4 behind the wall and attach the drywall to that my patch will still be 1/2 lower than the plaster wall surface unless I move the patch out further than the studs.


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

then you need to determine how much you need to shim it out (half inch?) and add this to your backing. From what I can tell, anyways. You just need to do whatever necessary to make the patch flush with the surface.

maybe half inch plywood to fur out the backing would work, secure that to your 2x4, then drywall.


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## bryanp22 (Nov 2, 2011)

Here is a side shot of a piece I cut out. 3/8 drywall and then plaster to get to 3/4 inch.


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## Dierte (Jan 23, 2011)

Use a piece of 5/8 drywall to fill in the patch. Mud in the rest. It can be done. The last one i did took 7 coats


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## bryanp22 (Nov 2, 2011)

I ended up just shimming the wall. Two paint stir sticks were the perfect thickness. The biggest pain is the plaster on the wall is pretty wavy so it a couple spots my patch sticks above but 95% is flush with the existing wall.


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## bryanp22 (Nov 2, 2011)

Do people recommend a trowel for skim coating or does a blade work? I have a 10 blade and it didn't seem to work that well with a wavy plaster wall. 

Here is a picture of texture. Is just from painting or do they use some form of spray texture and knockdown technique?


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## Dierte (Jan 23, 2011)

I used my 12" knife.


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## bryanp22 (Nov 2, 2011)

Any ideas on the wall texture from my original post? I'm hoping that is just from rolling the paint on


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

"Here is a picture of texture. Is just from painting or do they use some form of spray texture and knockdown technique? "

I believe your flat 10" blade will work to get very close. by using a very short napped roller over tin skim coat. maybe try a few light skim coats on a board, allowing different drying times and roll lightly say in 5 minute intervals? experiment along those lines.


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