# How to Handle This Gap Behind Cooktop?



## nobbyv (May 30, 2018)

We just installed a 48" gas KitchenAid cooktop, along with the required 9" high stainless steel backguard (the cooktop has a grill). However, when the cooktop is installed according to the installation instructions, there is a ~1" gap between the back of the backguard and the wall (see pics). 

My first thought was to order a large backsplash made with the solid surface countertop material that matches our counters, but my understanding is granite/quartz/etc. only come in 1.25" and 3/4" thicknesses. 

We are planning a tile backsplash of the entire area, but obviously tile isn't going to be 1" thick. 

I found one pic on the KitchenAid site that shows some sort of plexiglass with some standoffs behind the whole area, but frankly this looks cheesy and foolish to me.

Anyone have any ideas?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How about a granite shelf just above the range and down each side just 2 1/2"-3" deep
Tile to that,


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## nobbyv (May 30, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> How about a granite shelf just above the range and down each side just 2 1/2"-3" deep
> Tile to that,


Hmmm, you might be on to something: a place to place an olive oil bottle and salt and pepper shakers, say. The countertop guys actually miss-measured on a different section and ended up leaving me a spare ~6" wide, 5' long piece of the countertop material that I could even take a shot at cutting down myself (worst case I order a new piece). That's a great idea I didn't even think of. And why I come here.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

nobbyv said:


> Hmmm, you might be on to something: a place to place an olive oil bottle and salt and pepper shakers, say. The countertop guys actually miss-measured on a different section and ended up leaving me a spare ~6" wide, 5' long piece of the countertop material that I could even take a shot at cutting down myself (worst case I order a new piece). That's a great idea I didn't even think of. And why I come here.


I would just put board on the wall back there to stick to. It might not be easy to match if you screw it up. :surprise:


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

You could also use some Stainless Steel and simply cover the gap and screw it to the wall, with the screws hidden behind the stove. Some manufacturers have kits just for that. 

Do check the manual. Sometimes that gap is required to allow convection to keep the wall cool, so they can achieve the tight clearance with a hot device. 

Cheers!


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## rjordan393 (Sep 15, 2010)

Check the install manual to see if that gap is necessary and consult with the manufacturer if there is no information on it.
If you decide to add some type of cover or shelf, then keep in mind that whatever you add to it will collect grease and food particles and may need to be cleaned frequently. It would be much easier to wipe down the wall after you tile it.
I just checked my stove and I have a 2 inch gap. It is not that noticeable because the stove is colored black and the background blends in.


What I would do is to purchase a sheet of stainless steel, the width of your stove and attach that to the wall. Then tile on both sides of it if you wish.
Now that will blend in better.


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## ryansdiydad (Aug 16, 2015)

That gap makes no sense.. hard to believe it’s designed to leave a 1” gap... what is preventing it from being pushed all the way back?


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## Tymbo (Jan 18, 2018)

what is the model # of the cooktop?


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## diyorpay (Sep 21, 2010)

Need more experts to comment on this idea:
Remove that back piece.
Determine if 'wall' means combustible wall.
Prep for tile backsplash as follows:
Add 1/2 inch concrete backerboard as first layer including behind rear of cooktop.
Add 1/4 inch concrete backerboard as second layer including behind rear of cooktop.
Add typical tile next.
You may have to extend/adjust electrical boxes depth to meet new plain of tile.


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## nobbyv (May 30, 2018)

ryansdiydad said:


> That gap makes no sense.. hard to believe it’s designed to leave a 1” gap... what is preventing it from being pushed all the way back?


The front control panel of the cooktop is over-sized a bit to allow it to cover up the field cut made on the face frame of the cabinet it's placed in.



Tymbo said:


> what is the model # of the cooktop?


KGCU482VSS



diyorpay said:


> Need more experts to comment on this idea:
> Remove that back piece.
> Determine if 'wall' means combustible wall.
> Prep for tile backsplash as follows:
> ...


Do you mean remove the back piece permanently? I'm pretty sure even with cement backerboard it would be required.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Since you're gonna be doing back splash anyway, I'd wait to solve the problem until that's in, so you know how much of a gap you'll have. At that time, just take some 1/2" (or whatever your gap ends up as) stainless steel angle and bend it into a big U, and glue it to the back of that panel.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Maybe a SS trim could be made to go on the back of the range, we see SS crown around hoods at the ceiling.


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## Tymbo (Jan 18, 2018)

http://www.specsserver.com/CACHE/fraesyrbtxim.pdf

Here is the link to the installation guide. 

How deep is your counter?

It looks like your stone top stops at the cooktop.(there is not a stone strip at the wall)

I would bet you can make your notches at the front of the top deeper and push the unit back to the wall.


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## nobbyv (May 30, 2018)

Tymbo said:


> I would bet you can make your notches at the front of the top deeper and push the unit back to the wall.


Yeah, but as I mentioned above: I had to field cut the face of the cabinet to accept the cooktop. As it stands, the controls section overlaps the cabinet face frame, hiding the less-than-perfect field cut. I *could* cut it wider and push it back, but then I'd be looking at these ragged cuts.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Looks like the countertop or base cab has to be notched back. Kind of an easy fix with a diamond blade on a right angle grinder and/or a multi-tool.

Some countertops are 24", some 25.5", etc. appliance and countertop installers with experience know what to look for in most cases. 

The solution to add a shelf is nice - or put on a full 3/4" backsplash of matching granite.

I'm actually thinking someone may not have read all the notes on the installation instructions.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

You stated having installed a cooktop but the picture shows a range which is quite different. Is the back of the range hitting something sticking out from the wall?
A sheet metal shop can make a flange to fill the gap using stainless plate if you are stuck with that gap but I would look at fixing the problem at the source.


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## nobbyv (May 30, 2018)

Calson said:


> You stated having installed a cooktop but the picture shows a range which is quite different. Is the back of the range hitting something sticking out from the wall?
> A sheet metal shop can make a flange to fill the gap using stainless plate if you are stuck with that gap but I would look at fixing the problem at the source.


It's not a range, it's a cooktop. A range has an oven. This does not. The cooktop isn't hitting anything in back; the front control panel sits in front of the cabinet face (by design) which is what is restricting it from being pushed further back. 



Nealtw said:


> How about a granite shelf just above the range and down each side just 2 1/2"-3" deep
> Tile to that,


This is what I ended up doing. As I mentioned, I had a piece of the quartz countertops left over because the countertop guys miss-measured one section. I busted out the wet saw last weekend and cut it up, and got it installed. Happy with how it came out. I cut up some pieces to fill the sides too, but once I got the shelf installed a decided not to bother with those.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

That looks very nice. :thumbsup:
A good and practical solution.


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## PhilW777 (Oct 22, 2021)

Hey all we installed a new kitchen in 2018 I had exact same problem I tiled behind further down looked a bit better but still not flush I ended up ordering a piece of stainless steel online the width of the range in a 45 degree shape I used double stick tape and used high heat caulking for rest. The metal has tarnished over last 3 years but easy to replace


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