# bump start bolt removal



## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Old camry harmonic balancer and may have to use it to unscrew the bolt. Bought corded impact drill but not sure if it will have enough power. Have 3/8 drive breaker bar and socket. Have read many people with success stories but would like some wisdom before I see myself trying it. My first question would be should I get the impact capable sockets and all 1/2" drive tools (breaker bar)? Which is better, computer fuse or coil for disabling the engine start? Maybe confused because I read it, moved on then forgot where I read it, but coil disconnect can still send gas and flood where the pistons are? I have some good info on timing but not 100% on balancer bolt. Thank you in advance.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Don't know what year and engine size. A good impact will remove the bolt. An impact drill will not. 3/8 breaker bar I would guess not. Not long enough to position it against anything. When I get a stubborn harmonic balancer bolt, I use a 1/2 long breaker bar and position it to the left, engine rotates clockwise when you are standing in front facing engine, of the bolt and place it either on the frame rail or just let the handle hit the ground at a RIGHT ANGLE OF THE BOLT. Bump the starter. If it starts just shut it off or pull coil wire off. Your not cranking it for a long period of time. Just bump the starter. Now warning. If you do not position the breaker bar in the right position, it will tear up radiator and/or other stuff. So be careful.:vs_cool:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I don't own an impact but used them daily before retirement. For home use and where applicable, I've found a length of 2X4 impacted on the breaker bar handle with a Mickey Mantle swing to be very successful.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Turns out I have everything I need, 1/2" tools and the attachments, except 700ft/lb impact wrench. Will see if it's rented or try heat, pb blaster, then try with my 350ft/lb corded wrench. Will remove efi (fuel injectors) fuse and the spark coils, in case any gas left over cranks it more than the bump - if I use starter bump way.
Also found Lisle thick socket that some people are raving about. Honda bolt is supposed to be esp hard to move and some had successes with this socket and it is supposed to fit toyota.
This is actually my parents car and just found out they haven't touched it (near 100K) except oil changes. I'm just replacing some things needed that I can learn.


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## clarenceboddick (Nov 30, 2016)

Next time use a hand impact driver, if you don't have a good impact gun. Get a quality one and use a heavy hammer. I'd use gloves at first. Use good quality sockets or you can round off the bolt head flat to flat points.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Thanks but for that money I might as well get a high torque impact wrench. Why do they have to be cordless only? But $4-500 plus is too much for me. 
Well, lisle thick socket did not work with dewalt 345ft/lb corded. Dewalt did not work on strut bolts either. Also bent and broke autozone 1/2 drive breaker bar. Dura something. Heat (3x 30 sec map torch on low and pb blaster) did not work. Afraid of ruining the rubber in the balancer since I have to drive this.
Is the axle (the rod with cv boot?) strong enough to rest against when using starter bump? Don't risk it?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I have resorted to using a good quality TORQUE WRENCH to remove stubborn bolts.

Yes I know that it's made for tightening, but it also will untighten what it tightened.

You obviously have a very tight balancer bolt, or the breaker bar would have worked. 

I would not risk the axle to this, There is always the old "CHEATER PIPE" method, get another quality breaker bar, and a length of pipe long enough to have a long handle, slip the pipe over all the breaker, and pull. 

You might need to remove one spark plug, slip a few feet of cotton rope into the cylinder, turn the engine by hand to snug up against the rope wad, and then tug the cheater, but it will release.

Then turn the engine backward just enough to pull the rope out, ( you did leave a grip out?). replace the spark plug, and remove the balancer.


ED


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I'll have to take back my comment on dewalt. With pb blaster, the strut bolts at the knockle came off. Believe more than 30 seconds each. I'm too nervous about the rope method.:smile: There are conflicting opinions about it and I think a bit complicated for a newby and toyota balancer bolt (as well as honda) is famous for how tight it gets. My only option is starter bump and being driven into a corner, it looks better and better.


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## Marky82 (Dec 17, 2015)

I used the bump start method when I changed the harmonic balancer on my 2007 Mustang. I would have had to take off the radiator to fit my impact wrench so, instead, I used a breaker bar positioned against the concrete garage floor so it couldn't move, disconnected the spark plugs so the engine wouldn't turn over, then turned the key so starter would break the bolt. Worked like a charm. The harder part was tightening the bolt once I had the new harmonic balancer on.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

2x on the charm.:smile: There is also a radius arm (name?) under the axle and put the bar on it. Injector fuse out and 100% control. I used the impact socket on 3/4 bar with an adapter. The radius arm is rounded and I thought the bar may slip on it so I wedged the bar between a piece of 2x and a vice grip. 3 cranks before I realized I should turn off the key.:smile: Heard a small thunk and the bolt was hand loose.
This was a trial so returned the bolt with impact wrench and a torque limiter extension for 90 ft/lb. The balancer turns so the bolt can't be removed with wrench now. I thought it might since it was loose. Needs a dedicated holder for it. Next time will be the last time, hopefully. I will be changing out all seals and some parts under the time belt.


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