# Clothes smell like gas after dryer finishes



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Well, you're never going to believe this. 

I did some searches and I think I found the answer, which I would have never connected the dots. Evidently, "any time you do a household project with paints, stains, varnishes or chemical solvents, the vapors from the combustible products can ignite from the flame produced by your dryer and produce a kerosene smell."

Well, low and behold, we are re-doing our kitchen cabinets, den wood work and study, all which are being done in oil-based paints...this all started about 2 weeks ago when we started these projects.

I will post back if after the projects are over and paint smell is gone if the clothes still smell...thanks to all and I hope this will help someone else.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Glad your research held answers for you. However, you don't have the best of the best in your ducting. I know it was an engineering afterthought, but bends and lifts of dryer ducting reduce effectiveness and can build up lint and allow it to gather at the low point, causing obstruction in the flow. Plus I hope your dryer duct is smooth bore and not the corrugated flex stuff, which is a disaster waiting to happen.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Yes chand. the duct exhaust system is horrendous at best. And yes too, 4” smooth PVC would have been great, but not the case. It is the typical flex line. I just have to be way more vigilant now and clean the lines 2x’s a year. Any other tips, I’m all ears / thanks


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Not sure if the low point is accessible at the bend or not, but I have a similar situation, where mine goes up 7' and out. I put a 4" tee at the bottom and a removable cap so I can drop it out along with all the lint that has accumulated.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

tstex said:


> Yes chand. the duct exhaust system is horrendous at best. And yes too, 4” smooth PVC would have been great, but not the case. It is the typical flex line. I just have to be way more vigilant now and clean the lines 2x’s a year. Any other tips, I’m all ears / thanks


If you have access to the flex crap, replace it with the smooth ducting, you will be annoyed having to clean that poor mans crap, monthly.

Depending on your laundry needs, some folks wash laundry daily, others once a week, or less.

And If I were in Texas, I would take advantage of natures dryer.

Your clothing smell much better if hung out on a line.


ED


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> Your clothing smell much better if hung out on a line.


Yeah, wifey hangs my stuff out often. Ever tried putting on a pair of sun dried, wrinkled, stiff jeans. I don't complain, though. She takes care of me.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

chandler48 said:


> Yeah, wifey hangs my stuff out often. Ever tried putting on a pair of sun dried, wrinkled, stiff jeans. I don't complain, though. She takes care of me.


Yes I do, the trick is to buy jeans that are not tight, I personally like room in my pants to move around, and not get bound nuts.


ED


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Yeah, we show our age when we leave the "Slim" or "Boot Cut" and have to buy "Relaxed" jeans.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

“Bound nuts”. ROFL...relaxed cuts, I’m already buying those...nothing worse than the junk being rubbed & pulled, well, at least by your pants.

The country folks sun dry their jeans until slightly damp, then toss them into dryer to soften them...even those tough guys font like their junk constricted / lol


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## bfrabel (Oct 22, 2017)

tstex said:


> And yes too, 4” smooth PVC would have been great, but not the case. It is the typical flex line. I just have to be way more vigilant now and clean the lines 2x’s a year. Any other tips, I’m all ears / thanks



PVC is not for dryer duct (or any ducting). Something to do with it causing static electricity when a large amount of air is forced through it, which could ignite under the right circumstances.

If you want smooth, round sheetmetal pipe with adjustable elbows are the best you're going to get.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

bfrabel said:


> PVC is not for dryer duct (or any ducting). Something to do with it causing static electricity when a large amount of air is forced through it, which could ignite under the right circumstances.
> 
> If you want smooth, round sheetmetal pipe with adjustable elbows are the best you're going to get.


I have noticed that in the dark of night, and I rub my hands over PVC, I create static sparks. 

Alarmed me the first time.


ED


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

tstex said:


> I just have to be way more vigilant


That should be WAAAAAAAYYYYY more vigilant. Look at the owner's manual if you have it, or the manufacturer's website, and you will most likely find that they recommend not exceeding something like 35' total run, keeping in mind that each 90 degree elbow is equivalent to about 5' each of run. So along with the rest of the run you have an additional 10' just in elbows. I'm almost certain you would find too that these numbers are based on metal rigid duct, not PVC and not flex. Compounding it further, if they ran flex the joints are probably not properly sealed with foil type duct tape, so along with all of those ridges you probably have air leaks.



tstex said:


> clean the lines 2x’s a year


It's no fun, I know, but I would ratchet this up to every other month, six times a year, until you get a good handle on it or can save the money to remove what is there and do it right.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> PVC is not for dryer duct (or any ducting)


Yeah, I had big plans to install "permanent" hard PVC pipe as vacuum lines for my shop vacuum system, until I read the instructions which declared it should never be done. The corrugated piping provided looked cheesy, but it also had a grounding wire embedded in the mix to prevent static charge. I could imagine the static created without it and running all that wood at a fast rate through PVC.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

chandler48 said:


> Yeah, I had big plans to install "permanent" hard PVC pipe as vacuum lines for my shop vacuum system, until I read the instructions which declared it should never be done. The corrugated piping provided looked cheesy, but it also had a grounding wire embedded in the mix to prevent static charge. I could imagine the static created without it and running all that wood at a fast rate through PVC.


This brings up a question.

What kind of ducting do they use in a "whole house" vacuum system?

I always thought that it was PVC. 


ED


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

It's corrugated similar to shop vacuum systems, with grounding incorporated in the spiral. Most of the hoses have the signal wires incorporated, too, to tell the main head to turn on and off, and to provide power to the vacuum beater head.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

bfrabel said:


> PVC is not for dryer duct (or any ducting). Something to do with it causing static electricity when a large amount of air is forced through it, which could ignite under the right circumstances.


 **********************************************
Should i remove the plastic central vac pipe?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> Should i remove the plastic central vac pipe?


If it is in the walls, I doubt it would matter much.


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

It wouldn't hurt to check for gas leaks. Nothing smells quite like the odorant used in gas systems. That's called Ethyl Mercaptan and my buddy told me you could take a teaspoon full of it and stink up the entire United States!

Another possibility is incomplete combustion of the burner or slow ignition.

Better safe than sorry. I think most gas utility companies will do a safety check free.


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## bfrabel (Oct 22, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> **********************************************
> Should i remove the plastic central vac pipe?



I've been thinking about this for a while and what I've come up with is that static electricity/sparks aren't as much of an issue within central vacuum pipes because they are in a negative pressure, which makes conditions not as favorable to support fire.

When a dryer is running, it is constantly shoving oxygen into it's exhaust pipe (along with polyester fibers and Bounce residue), which might make for a worse situation.

Also, a vacuum is made to suck up mostly dirt and sand, which isn't as combustible. 

Of course I may have just made all of this stuff up, but that's what I'm going with.


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## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

Most jurisdictions do not allow the plastic flex hose. Metal only.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

It would be impossible to replace my duct BC i would have to remove Sheetrock behind WD, next to gas lines, waterlines, electrical outlets and then remove a garage ceiling that is Sheetrock and painted. I’m just going to have to live w more frequent duct cleanings

To make sure it was not the igniter failing, i started up the dryer and after 2-3 seconds, turned it off, then opened the door to take a whiff...fortunately, no gas smell; no external gas smell at any time. I spray the whole gas line from wall to dryer and all unions w soap and no bubbles. 

If this pursues 2-3 wks after we finish cabinets, then I’ll regrp. I’m pretty sure it’s the VOC being ignited w gas giving this smell...the timing is just as we started cabinets, but, i will not rule out any other suggestions that could pinpoint another issue 

Hope all of you, your families and friends, all have a great a safe Labor Day weekend 

Thank you,
Tstex


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

@tstex They make a dryer lint trap, that you fill with water, and run a short flex hose into, behind the dryer.

That would eliminate the need for the long "kludge" system that you have.

You just need to remember to fill the water reservoir weekly.


ED


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

A central vac has one very significant difference from a dryer vent or shop dust collection system - the presence of combustible materials in the lines. Dryer lint and sawdust are very combustible; dirt and sand, not so much.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Ed & Hot..


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## bfrabel (Oct 22, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> @*tstex* They make a dryer lint trap, that you fill with water, and run a short flex hose into, behind the dryer.
> 
> That would eliminate the need for the long "kludge" system that you have.
> 
> ...



NO de-nagorg! Gas burning dryers NEED to be vented outside.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

bfrabel said:


> NO de-nagorg! Gas burning dryers NEED to be vented outside.


So I found out, Maybe someone makes a water bath to capture the lint, then vents the Co, outside, or maybe it can be utilized as such.


ED


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

interesting thread. i had seen it earlier, but didn't have a need to look. then, all of a sudden i now have that "smell". and it just so turns out that i have started a staining/poly project.


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## Yoca (Sep 13, 2020)

sounds like a ventilation problem..


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i moved my stain/poly project out to the shed. the smell is now gone.


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## RockyMtBeerMan (Dec 12, 2018)

Home fires caused by dryer lint is #3.

Plus, vents clogged with lint increase drying time and, hence, cost you more.

Remove any vertical runs in your dryer vent and make the horizontal runs very short.

Have it vent into the garage with an easily accessible lint trap.

Mine goes *directly* into the basement with a stocking over the end of the vent. EZPZ, plus helps heat the basement.

Link:
https://www.alder.com/blog/4-common-causes-house-fires


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

RockyMtBeerMan said:


> Mine goes *directly* into the basement with a stocking over the end of the vent. EZPZ, plus helps heat the basement.


is that code ? or at least safe ?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

"2. Cooking Fires

Cooking fires rank as the number one cause of house fires in the United States "


:vs_laugh:


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

RockyMtBeerMan said:


> Have it vent into the garage with an easily accessible lint trap.
> 
> Mine goes *directly* into the basement with a stocking over the end of the vent. EZPZ, plus helps heat the basement.





Fix'n it said:


> is that code ? or at least safe ?


For an *electric* dryer, it's safe, as long as the lint doesn't build up where it can get ignited by something. For the OP's *gas* dryer, it is *definitely not safe* to vent it to anywhere enclosed.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ooops, i forgot about electric driers


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Quote from tstex:

"If this pursues 2-3 wks after we finish cabinets, then I’ll regrp. I’m pretty sure it’s the VOC being ignited w gas giving this smell...the timing is just as we started cabinets, but, i will not rule out any other suggestions that could pinpoint another issue"

All, the project has been over for 2 weeks now and the smell in our clothes is completely gone. So i must conclude it was definitely the VOC vapors being sucked into the NG combustion process and made the clothes smell...never in my wildest dreams would I have concluded the painting project was the cause.

My venting system, due to NG, must be vented outside bc of carbon monoxide. I will clean out the vents more often like 2-3 mo's to determine how much build up I am getting...thanks again for everyone's help and suggestions


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