# Replacing Corroded Washing Machine Valve



## pjrcard (Sep 13, 2010)

*Update*

Nevermind. On attempting one last time to remove the rust from the valve's threading, I was finally successful in breaking most of it apart... but when I tried to screw on and tighten the new hose, I discovered to my chagrin that I had damaged the pipe elbow behind the wall sufficiently enough to pull the whole valve off the supply pipe.

Even better, the way the pipes are set up in this house, I can't even isolate that one pipe or that one area of the house. All the other rooms in the house have shut off valves in the basement so as to be isolated and turned off. Makes sense. But because of the way the house is built, the supply pipe for the downstairs bathroom and washing machine is built as sort of a "stop off point" on the way to the kitchen and upstairs bathroom and doesn't appear to have a secondary basement control valve -- aside from on what is effectively the pipe coming into the basement from the well. Thus if I turn on the water back on to the whole house, water will flow uncontrolled out of the supply pipe and flood my downstairs.

Frustration. Have already called a plumber and am preparing for a couple days without water in most of the house. Anyway, thanks at least for reading.


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## NoHax (Feb 20, 2009)

While you have the plumber at your house, how about replacing *both* the cold and hot water hose bibs at the same time? _Use new ball valve hose bibs instead of the the old style that you have now._


Sheetrock wallboard is not hard to repair around a pipe. Use a sharp utility knife (or drywall hand saw) to cut the wallboard.


_'You Tube'_ is your friend for information on a wall repair such as this. Click on the link below for just one of many videos on sheetrock repair:

*DIY Drywall Repair*



Good luck!


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## braindead (May 31, 2010)

I would add one of these, a one lever shut off for both lines; wash machines should be shut off when not in use.


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