# Pouring garage footers.



## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

What All is needed to pour garage footer. 

For a 30x30 garage.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

we need more info than that. but, round here, the footing and slab are 1 piece.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Okay. I'm doing the slab at a later time. 

I'd like to get the foundation built so I can go ahead and put up the walls and roof.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh. 30x30 is a nice size.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Would like 40x40. But decided to go with 36x36. Then realized finically better if I went with 30x30. 

So 30x30 should so what I need lol.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Itscody said:


> Okay. I'm doing the slab at a later time.


yeah. i am sure there are ways to do that in an ok way. but my MIL's garage was done that way. it is a freaking mess. the foundation settled 3 different ways. and the slab settled 3 different other way.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

To even make some guesses your going to have to go back and add your location to your profile. Just go to quick links to edit.

Need to call your local utilty locating service before any digging.
This is going to need a permit.

This is one job that I would hire out. Done wrong and there's no going back, the rest of the building will suffer.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

I'm in Kentucky. 


I have had all lines marked already. I do not need a permit. Due to being out of city limits. 

So it's a green light to go.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

footing size is based upon the load it must support and the soil bearing capacity. is this a one story garage or will there be a second floor?


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

GBrackins said:


> footing size is based upon the load it must support and the soil bearing capacity. is this a one story garage or will there be a second floor?


It will be a one story. Detached.


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

I would pour a floating slab for the foundation for this.

You don't need footers if you build it this way.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

framer52 said:


> I would pour a floating slab for the foundation for this.
> 
> You don't need footers if you build it this way.


So 30x30 garage. 
Detached with one story. 

On a floating slab. 

Sounds a lot easier and sounds like it will save money.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Where not even allowed to build anything but a stem wall foundation for a garage around here.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...F1B869E947F99AD07B043F68F7CBE&selectedIndex=1
It needs two rows of rebar, has to be below the frost line, 2' wide and 8" thick.

It needs to be at least 6" higher then the finished grade.


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

we build them all the time, yet to have one fail yet.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

In the long run, pouring the slab and footing at the same time is easier and cheaper

Click on the garage link in my signature for an example. 

One thing frequently over looked when you do the slab later is how muddy it is. The space for you slab end up being a mud hole.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

framer52 said:


> we build them all the time, yet to have one fail yet.


Here as well, and I'm actually pouring a little 22' x 22' in the morning. I've been involved in pouring grade beam slabs well over 100' long with no problems. Regardless of where you are located, there should be some specifications for the height and width of the grade beam/thickened edge, as well as a minimum amount of re-enforcement...........


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

ky is subject to frost so common sense will dictate the footer depth,,, it it were ours, we'd pour footer w/steel as recommended & leave a final height 6" above grade,,, start framing to that,,, you can always come back later & place the floor which floats on the slab,,, in the meantime you can park on the base of crushed stone or compacted ( graded aggregate base/crusher run ),,, put in a good joint pattern to prevent random cracking,,, 3 longitudinal & 3 transverse cuts should do it easily )will result in less than 8' x 8' slabs

here's an even better suggestion - find a retired conc guy & be his friend,,, then hire him to help - he sits & directs, you do the work,,, pay him enough as you're buying his knowledge & experience,,, personally, when down at the shore, i work for greens fees


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

itsreallyconc said:


> ky is subject to frost so common sense will dictate the footer depth,,, it it were ours, we'd pour footer w/steel as recommended & leave a final height 6" above grade,,, start framing to that,,, you can always come back later & place the floor which floats on the slab,,, in the meantime you can park on the base of crushed stone or compacted ( graded aggregate base/crusher run ),,, put in a good joint pattern to prevent random cracking,,, 3 longitudinal & 3 transverse cuts should do it easily )will result in less than 8' x 8' slabs
> 
> here's an even better suggestion - find a retired conc guy & be his friend,,, then hire him to help - he sits & directs, you do the work,,, pay him enough as you're buying his knowledge & experience,,, personally, when down at the shore, i work for greens fees


How deep would you go down in the ground, 6" up top. 8" in ground. To have a footer over 1 foot in total height.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

1' would be fine here in atl but, in ky, i have no idea,,, but, as much as we all like to see ourselves in print, i'm sure someone will respond :laughing:


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

itsreallyconc said:


> 1' would be fine here in atl but, in ky, i have no idea,,, but, as much as we all like to see ourselves in print, i'm sure someone will respond :laughing:


1 ft in ground or total height in atl


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

1' in ground


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

itsreallyconc said:


> 1' in ground


Gotcha. 18" total height.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Originally Posted by *framer52*  
_we build them all the time, yet to have one fail yet._

Here as well, and I'm actually pouring a little 22' x 22' in the morning. I've been involved in pouring grade beam slabs well over 100' long with no problems. Regardless of where you are located, there should be some specifications for the height and width of the grade beam/thickened edge, as well as a minimum amount of re-enforcement........... 


For your location,jomama's way is all that's needed,and footing along with slab done in one pour,no need to do any digging.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> Originally Posted by *framer52*
> _we build them all the time, yet to have one fail yet._
> 
> Here as well, and I'm actually pouring a little 22' x 22' in the morning. I've been involved in pouring grade beam slabs well over 100' long with no problems. Regardless of where you are located, there should be some specifications for the height and width of the grade beam/thickened edge, as well as a minimum amount of re-enforcement...........
> ...


And then just build on top of the footing, correct?


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Itscody said:


> And then just build on top of the footing, correct?


 

You'll actually be building on top of the slab,footing is under the slab.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> You'll actually be building on top of the slab,footing is under the slab.


So no digging. Slab poured. Garage built on slab. 

Should I use. J bolts - put in to cemet and bolt walls to them or drill holes in slab use epoxy and put bolts in that way.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Itscody said:


> So no digging. Slab poured. Garage built on slab.
> 
> Should I use. J bolts - put in to cemet and bolt walls to them or drill holes in slab use epoxy and put bolts in that way.


 
J bolts added when slab is poured.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> J bolts added when slab is poured.


Got quoted for $1200 to pour 30x30 slab 4 inches deep. 5 inches. In corner with lift. 
What's a good way to box in the area and prep for them to come pour.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> J bolts added when slab is poured.


And how many j bolts should be used or Howard every so many feet.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Itscody said:


> Got quoted for $1200 to pour 30x30 slab 4 inches deep. 5 inches. In corner with lift.
> What's a good way to box in the area and prep for them to come pour.


Sorry...but I see this shaping up for failure....not trying to rag on you....but if your asking these kinds of questions, then your way in over your head.

Now it's only fair to point out I was in the same boat about 5 years ago when I did my garage....I paid someone else to do it....and learned a lot along the way.

Like Joe said...you only get one shot at it...fixing it afterwards is not going to be cheap.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

I can build structures all day long to a certain size. But have never built anything they required being bolted to the ground. Exc. 

I don't have $10-20 grand for someone to build a garage. Once I get the foundation done. I won't ask another question. 

I'll be happy if it last 5 years for me. If I fail. At least I can say I tried and learn from my mistakes.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

I haven't read every post so I may have missed this ...... if you build your wooden walls at grade level you will probably have issues with rot. we typically have them at least 8" above the ground


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

GBrackins said:


> I haven't read every post so I may have missed this ...... if you build your wooden walls at grade level you will probably have issues with rot. we typically have them at least 8" above the ground


I am planning on being 4-6" above ground and slooping the yard for water to run away from slab.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

There's a code for spacing of the j bolts,you'll have to ask your local building department


6 inches above grade is better.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

I live way out of city limits. So I'll have to see if I can track somebody down to answer that then.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Itscody said:


> I live way out of city limits. So I'll have to see if I can track somebody down to answer that then.


 
If i were to guess i'd say 5/6 feet apart you'd be okay,just don't position them on the ends,at least 3/4 feet in


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Okay thanks for all the answers. I believe I should be able to knock this out fairly easy. 

Although I'm debating if I should add a little crub or something. To give it a little base type deal.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Itscody said:


> What All is needed to pour garage footer.
> 
> For a 30x30 garage.


Just a question not directed at just you but most people from the east coast and south east. Why do you call footings footers? it just sounds weird.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Nailbags said:


> Just a question not directed at just you but most people from the east coast and south east. Why do you call footings footers? it just sounds weird.


I'm not from this area. So I couldn't answer that lol. I just say it how the concrete guys say it here.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Nailbags said:


> Just a question not directed at just you but most people from the east coast and south east. Why do you call footings footers? it just sounds weird.


indeed. my dad was in concrete. when i was a kid, i carried TONS of forms, and i pounded LOTS of stakes. and i helped pour LOTS on concrete. 

"footings" is what we called em.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> indeed. my dad was in concrete. when i was a kid, i carried TONS of forms, and i pounded LOTS of stakes. and i helped pour LOTS on concrete.
> 
> "footings" is what we called em.


With that being said. 

I dug about 6 ft deep in the area I'm building. 

Pouring concrete in about a week. What should I use / do to prep ground before they come. Since its not 100% settled in. The guy mentioned something about 6610


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

That's a reference to wire mesh re-enforcement, 6 x 6 x 10 gauge...........


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Gotcha. any suggestions on the soil where it's been freshly dug in to or will the wire mesh be good.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Itscody said:


> With that being said.
> 
> I dug about 6 ft deep in the area I'm building.
> 
> Pouring concrete in about a week. What should I use / do to prep ground before they come. Since its not 100% settled in. The guy mentioned something about 6610


Well lets see in the footings place a double run of #4 rebar in on the slab part crushed rock and over that a 6Mil min visqueen moisture barrier then your 6610 on that. your good to go.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

Nailbags said:


> Well lets see in the footings place a double run of #4 rebar in on the slab part crushed rock and over that a 6Mil min visqueen moisture barrier then your 6610 on that. your good to go.


All this underneath slab area and ill be good to go. 

Thanks. 

What size boards should be used to box area in.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Itscody said:


> I can build structures all day long to a certain size. But have never built anything they required being bolted to the ground. Exc.
> 
> I don't have $10-20 grand for someone to build a garage. Once I get the foundation done. I won't ask another question.
> 
> *I'll be happy if it last 5 years for me*. If I fail. At least I can say I tried and learn from my mistakes.


5 Years? Even at $3K for the foundation.....that is a lot of money to only expect 5 years from it.

Add another $1000 and you can go from expecting 5 years of service to 50+ years.

This whole thing is just blowing me away. I just can't understand why you would go through this much work to do a marginal job at best when the effort to take it to a higher level is not that much.

If I were to do my garage foundation again....I think my cost would have been around $5k total....I got hosed by the contractor. 

For reference, I did my own house foundation....Hired out the labor to the guy who did the actual labor on my garage...my total cost on the addition foundation was around $7k....and of that, about $1000 was just in hold downs, anchor bolts and rebar.....and a lot more complicated than what your doing.


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

I mean I will expect more then 5 years. Eapeit for the next owner of the house when I sell in 4 years. 

Concrete is only thing I'm lacking knowledge on. But would like to learn more about. 

I can honestly say the garage it's self wont fail even if the foundation does. Although. 

I have a buddy that is in construction. Helping me with the project. But I'd prefer to come here and learn more. Since I get Lot faster answers here then I do from him.


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

Itscody said:


> I can honestly say the garage it's self wont fail even if the foundation does.


SERIOUSLY???? :no:


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## Itscody (May 7, 2012)

GBrackins said:


> SERIOUSLY???? :no:


Good laugh. =]


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Itscody said:


> All this underneath slab area and ill be good to go.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> What size boards should be used to box area in.


Why not make is real easy and do the footings with say a 6" stem wall for the foundation of the walls. then you have the form for the slab in place. back fill after that with crushed rock use a vibration compactor, place the moisture barrier over that. your wire mesh on top of that, when you pour the mud, us the cement rake with the hook and pull the mesh up it to the mud. Scree it bull float it then fresno it and call it good. if you get bleed water use a garden hose and pull it off that way.


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