# Bathroom Vanity not Flush with Wall



## jburchill (Oct 3, 2010)

Hello All,

I am putting a bathroom vanity and the back doesn't sit flush against the wall. The vanity is level. I think there is a stud right in the middle pushing the drywall out a little. So on the left and right side there is a little gap.

Could I trim out the drywall where it bulges out until the left and right side touch flush? Then caulk it to make it look nice?

Let me know your thoughts on how to handle this.

Thanks


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Is it the cabinet or the top not sitting flush? What type top is it?
How big are these gaps?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Picture would help...

If the top is one-piece and not trimable, I've cut into the drywall before, and pulled the drywall to the cabinet with wall anchors before (between studs), then caulk. Use which doesn't show the most...once I accessed the bad stud behind the cabinet and cut into it, added plywood stiffeners, replaced drywall (careful for wiring), installed cabinet after fire-taping joints.

Gary
As Joe asked... scribe the top?


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## jburchill (Oct 3, 2010)

I'll get a pic of it tomorrow. That should help better than my description.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If it's a composite top it can be sanded with a belt sander.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I've let granite into drywall.


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

If cutting a slot in the drywall, finish it off with a nice tile border/backsplash.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Seattle2k said:


> If cutting a slot in the drywall, finish it off with a nice tile border/backsplash.


Yep....^^^^^^^..... on granite installs.... I have yet to see/encounter a circumstance where the installers scribed the back side of a granite counter..... 

if the backsplach won't cover the wall varience, I let them let it into the drywall... I don't let them cut the vapor barrier if its an outside wall.

I haven't run into an extreem circumstance as yet that exceeded that solution...... wonder if there would be an upcharge to scribe/contour that back edge?????????

Best


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

From what I read of the OP is the sides don't touch. The stud in the middle is proud so when the vanity is pushed all the way back neither _side_ is touching the wall. It's not just the top.


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## jburchill (Oct 3, 2010)

Here is the right side...the left looks the same


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> From what I read of the OP is the sides don't touch. The stud in the middle is proud so when the vanity is pushed all the way back neither _side_ is touching the wall. It's not just the top.


So set and lessen your counter top overhang 1/4 inch and set the counter top back into the drywall....*

And if the framing on the cabinet and the proud stud is too great to make minor adjustment in the counter top overhang, or in the cabinet framing.....

then your installer made a measuring/ templating error... and send them back to their shop if they can't scribe it on location....

Or tear down your wall and build it in plane.

*The above is how I would handle it...and that's just because I defer to the practical,.... but realize that if this counter was measured/ templated, it isthe shop/ installers problem with what/how they cut the counter..

Best

Peter


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Maybe I'm not understanding but OK I get the top to fit. Now what do you do down along side the cabinet on both sides that has a big gap? If this is true forget the top take it in another room. Now you have just the cabinet that has a gap on both sides.
Rather than try to just shave the drywall over the stud, this would remove the paper and leave a crumbly mess, maybe take an oscillating tool cut along both sides of the stud and put in a piece of 3/8" then tape and mud the seams. They are behind the vanity so they don't have to be pretty.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

That gap looks to be very small actually. And perhaps I'm reading too much into it. It it sounds as if the op grabbed a vanity and top from big box and is trying to install it. If that is the case, I would determine what is hitting what and where. If only the top, let it into the drywall a bit. If the entire cabinet, I would likely grab a hammer and hammer the sheetrock up and down that stud at vanity level and see if that gains me what appears to be the 1/8" needed. Not the most elegant....but effective. Ron


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## jburchill (Oct 3, 2010)

I did buy the vanity at Menards, and I am the installer. I'm thinking about cutting the drywall in the center and let it in. I'll start in the middle and keep cutting to the left and right little by little until the sides touch.

This sound like a good idea? I don't want to cut in, if there is a better way.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

The argument/suggestion to let it into (cut the drywall) the drywall is predicated on using a backsplash to cover that cut.

It appears to me that tile would cover that existing varience.... are you not going to install a backsplach.

As far as any standoff along the sides of your cabinet, tack or glue on a molding/filler strip.


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## jburchill (Oct 3, 2010)

I didn't even think about a backsplash...Great idea, good thing i checked this before I cut into the wall today. Now to plan out a backsplash.


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## Donna_Donna (May 1, 2014)

I don't think that you should cover those gaps. They are not to large. Any additional materials will not help to hide, but nevertheless to emphasize that flaw.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Donna_Donna said:


> I don't think that you should cover those gaps. They are not to large. Any additional materials will not help to hide, but nevertheless to emphasize that flaw.


Donna, once again you are giving some very poor advice.


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## JKeefe (Jan 4, 2013)

Donna_Donna said:


> I don't think that you should cover those gaps. They are not to large. Any additional materials will not help to hide, but nevertheless to emphasize that flaw.


A backsplash is a perfect solution here to hide the flaw. How would a backsplash emphasize this flaw?


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