# Cracks and bumps in old drywall



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=drywall+repair&qpvt=drywall+repair&FORM=VDRE


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## diytrying (Mar 3, 2014)

Ha - okay okay, I'll watch some more videos tomorrow. I watched a bunch on installing drywall and my method for repairing holes in drywall (which has never failed me until now) was just to scrape some drywall compound over it and sand it after it dries. I've never had to fix bulging drywall or have holes or cracks come back after patching them, but maybe there's something I'm missing. I'll keep you updated on my success


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## diytrying (Mar 3, 2014)

joecaption said:


> http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=drywall+repair&qpvt=drywall+repair&FORM=VDRE


Joe, I've watched a few videos and done some reading and it seems that one way to fix the bulge in drywall seams is to simply tape and mud over it, blending it into the wall. Another way is apparently to remove the drywall and do it from scratch with more framing. Some say you can't avoid the bulging drywall seam between floors without leaving room between the drywall and putting some sort of decorative strip over the seam, allowing the two pieces to expand and contract.

Is it a really bad idea to either sand down the bulge (which I read, will probably come back later) or actually sand/cut past the bulge and into the wall, then mud/tape that cut or divet along where the two pieces of drywall meet?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That drywall is beyond patching---remove enough to bridge the bad framing--about 2 to 4 foot---move the seams well away from the torn places---that framing is moving--do not put screw into that area--let the framing move behind the drywall--


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I think if you dig around you will find an old seam right there at the door. Anyway the easiest way to fix it would be to clean the crack out then using a setting compound, (hot mud) a powdered compound you mix with water. Get the 45 minute one. Using the hot mud and paper tape re-do the crack then finish it with regular mud. The hot mud is a lot stronger than regular mud but is hard to finish. That is why you need both.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

A few rules of thumb.
Never have a seam near the corners of a window or door. Doors and windows are the weakest point in a home.
The seams should have been over the middle of the door or window.
Just applying joint compound over a crack with no tape is never going to work.
Looks like someone used way to much drywall compound, only applied one coat and did not feather it out nearly enough.
A few simple rules when drywall finishing, thin coats, it's going to take a DIY at least three coats to get it right, no sanding between coats, just wipe over it with the knife to knock off the high spots. The last coat is the only one needing sanding. Sand in a ciruler motion. The area over a taped seam needs to be at least 8" to taper it out and not see the hump.
The whole idea is to just fill the low spots, not build it out away from the wall.
If you rub your hand across a repair and you can feel it then it's not right and will show.
No primer or paint is going to cover a flaw.
Any repairs need to be wiped down to get the sanding dust off and will need to be primed before painting. Primer and paint in one does not count on bare drywall compound. Need real primer. I like Zinsser 123.


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## diytrying (Mar 3, 2014)

oh'mike said:


> That drywall is beyond patching---remove enough to bridge the bad framing--about 2 to 4 foot---move the seams well away from the torn places---that framing is moving--do not put screw into that area--let the framing move behind the drywall--


Thank you, this is a great idea!


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## diytrying (Mar 3, 2014)

ToolSeeker said:


> I think if you dig around you will find an old seam right there at the door. Anyway the easiest way to fix it would be to clean the crack out then using a setting compound, (hot mud) a powdered compound you mix with water. Get the 45 minute one. Using the hot mud and paper tape re-do the crack then finish it with regular mud. The hot mud is a lot stronger than regular mud but is hard to finish. That is why you need both.


Thank you for the detailed instructions. When you say "clean the crack out" I imagine simply cutting a groove into it, 45 degrees from center on each side, making a larger crack, and THEN filling that in. Is this correct?

I think I will be taking your advice and oh'mike's, as I have these all over the place and some will require new drywall while some I can probably fix this way.


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## diytrying (Mar 3, 2014)

joecaption said:


> A few rules of thumb.
> Never have a seam near the corners of a window or door. Doors and windows are the weakest point in a home.
> The seams should have been over the middle of the door or window.
> Just applying joint compound over a crack with no tape is never going to work.
> ...


Joe, thanks for all of these tips and rules of thumb. I had always used the paint with primer but I will take your advice and do it right after all of these drywall repairs. This will also help me to patch up the various other cracks around the house - I'll let you know how I make out.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

diytrying said:


> Thank you for the detailed instructions. When you say "clean the crack out" I imagine simply cutting a groove into it, 45 degrees from center on each side, making a larger crack, and THEN filling that in. Is this correct?
> 
> I think I will be taking your advice and oh'mike's, as I have these all over the place and some will require new drywall while some I can probably fix this way.


Yes that is correct.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Need real primer. I like Zinsser 123.


Do you use just the primer or sealer and primer? Just the primer is $30 for 2 gallons at HD where the sealer and primer is $93 for the 5 gallon.


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## Bigbluefrog (Oct 15, 2014)

Hi I need help repairing drywall cracks. I just read through these posts. One crack is at the peak of our sunroom and runs the whole length. Along the tape and we used knock down finish. We think the settling after building caused it along with the first year it was unheated and seperated by a patio door to the rest of the home.
How do I match up knockdown finish? After patching? THANKS for your help!!!
I see we have some drywall seams by doorways. we have a colonial stick home built in 1970s and notice drywall seams and nail spots through out original drywall. Why does that happen? Is it the cold in Wisconsin? We had a very cold winter last year


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