# Seam over doorways won't hold



## Cindyloo670 (Dec 6, 2008)

I built my house 25 years ago. I have two pocket doors in my living room and within a month each had a long vertical crack over the doorway. Someone told me this happened because instead of cutting the doorways out of a single sheet of sheetrock, the drywall guy "pieced" the area over the door. I was told the seams on either side of the top piece will never hold.

I attempted to repair these cracks numerous times. The cracked again almost immediately. Finally, in desperation, I wallpapered the room! 

Now I want to paint the room and if I have to have a drywaller come out and replace the drywall around the doors, I am willing to do that. 

My question is, do I have to do that, or is there another way to fix the darned seams permanently?

Thank you in advance for any comments or suggestions!


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

If properly fixed, that should not be a problem. Sounds like there may be a problem with settling. That should be checked before another drywall repair is attempted.


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## RickyBobby (Nov 19, 2009)

I have always seen this where the board was ended at the jams and the header was pieced in. I have never had any problem as long as the joint was in the middle of the header or the entire door covered with one sheet as you mentioned.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

A single piece of drywall would be better I think. The bigger problem is the pocket-doors. Those assemblies can be dubious to begin with and are subject to and vulnerable to movement due to their usual flimsy construction compared to a regular hinged door hung to a standard framed structure.

As long as there is a seam in that area this could be an ongoing issue.


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## Cindyloo670 (Dec 6, 2008)

Yes, the board was ended at the jams and the header was pieced in. I've got four pocket doors and no problem with the other two. My parents have four too, and never had a problem. I LOVE pocket doors, lol.

Whew, thank you all so much for weighing in. I've heard enough to convince me I don't want to have the crack "repaired". Maybe if I had a pro repair it (with tape this time) it would hold, but if it doesn't I'd end up having the drywall replaced later, after my room has all been completely redone. The mess would be awful. 

I guess now I have the task of trying to find a competent pro that would be willing to do such a small job. God help me with THAT task!


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

(with tape this time)
:huh::huh:


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## jimmy21 (Jul 2, 2008)

I think he means it was originally taped and cracked and everytime he fixes the crack he just fills the crack with no tape. 

I agree with others. Whenever i do drywall I never put my seams over the jams. What I prefer to do, in new construction, is center the drywall over the door way, screw it in properly and then cut out the door opening after the fact. Fastest, easiest, and best solution. With remodels it can be a little trickier, but still dint out your seem over the jams


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

Cindyloo670 said:


> Yes, the board was ended at the jams and the header was pieced in. I've got four pocket doors and no problem with the other two. My parents have four too, and never had a problem. I LOVE pocket doors, lol.


I don't understand the pieced in part. In the original post, it was mentioned cracks started a month after the place was finished.
Are the 2 pocket doors with problems along a bearing wall... possibly under-sized header above?


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## Cindyloo670 (Dec 6, 2008)

I don't know if the original seam was taped, I assume it was, lol.

But when I tried to repair the cracks, I don't think I tried to use tape. It's been a lot of years since I tried to fix them (I've been wallpapering over it for the past 20 years, lol) so I can't remember.

YES, these doors are on the center load bearing wall. Do you think that has something to do with the problem? It would explain why I don't have the problem with my other two pocket doors!


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## jimmy21 (Jul 2, 2008)

Is assume that load bearing walls have much more movement to them. Thats probablt the issue. Or your header might be too small


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## Cindyloo670 (Dec 6, 2008)

The header is 15" like all of my other doors. So then, do you recommend that cut the doorway out of a full sheet of drywall and put that up? Thank you ALL SO MUCH!


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## packer_rich (Jan 16, 2011)

if you are going to remove the dryawll make sure the cripples or trimmers{same thing different terminology} do not have a gap at the header. This will allow movement that causes cracks.If there is any space, fill with a tapered shim


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## Cindyloo670 (Dec 6, 2008)

Ok, I will definitely make sure the drywall guy does that. Thank you for the tip!


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

One for the road........ http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new construction/wood_shrink.htm

Gary


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## Cindyloo670 (Dec 6, 2008)

Geez Gary, after scanning (I couldn't actually READ it as it is too technical for me) that article, I suddenly feel very lucky that my ONLY problem has been those two big cracks! 

Thanks for sharing it though. When I hire someone, I'm going to show it to him!


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Agree with RickyBobby. Joints should break over the door, not next to it. It's a type of repair that you should be able to find someone to do. I do smaller jobs all the time. Just be sure to check references.....


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