# Which type of drip edge?



## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Now i just read that D style edging is ONLY used on the gable end of a rake, while another stated T style is for that, not D style.

Why is there so much conflicting information on drip edges??!!!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The reason there is so much conflicting information is that most drip edge is worthless and should go to the recycle bin immediately after manufacture. 

To protect the fascia, install a full apron that covers it plus a half inch extended off the bottom of fascia with the remaining 6" or so onto the roof for nailing.


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

SeniorSitizen said:


> The reason there is so much conflicting information is that most drip edge is worthless and should go to the recycle bin immediately after manufacture.
> 
> To protect the fascia, install a full apron that covers it plus a half inch extended off the bottom of fascia with the remaining 6" or so onto the roof for nailing.


Opinions vary.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Use it regardless. Then if you want wrap the fascia, don't try an make it one piece like it was said above. Most thin coil stock will oil can, then blow off with the first good gust of wind.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

This reply isn't to be argumentative but to help the OP to make an informed decision. 

The full skirt does work because this skirt has been on this house for 31 years and has weathered hail, wind that took out a 50 ft. walnut trees and 2 re-roof jobs. Whether it works or not is mostly in the gauge of stock used. To my knowledge this is the same gauge as the Al gutter.

Would I do it again, sure would, every time and makes gutter installation a breeze.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Most likely, I will not be installing a gutter. With that said, on the eave, shoud I install the drip edge, NOT the apron? And on the rake, only a drip edge? Not apron?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

SeniorSitizen said:


> This reply isn't to be argumentative but to help the OP to make an informed decision.
> 
> The full skirt does work because this skirt has been on this house for 31 years and has weathered hail, wind that took out a 50 ft. walnut trees and 2 re-roof jobs. Whether it works or not is mostly in the gauge of stock used. To my knowledge this is the same gauge as the Al gutter.
> 
> Would I do it again, sure would, every time and makes gutter installation a breeze.


So with out a standard drip edge how do you keep water from getting between the gutter and fascia wrap? Of course if it's not a heavier gauge there will be a lot of issues. As a simple L shaped piece of metal has little strength with a long leg like that. With out a gutter or some serious face nailing that cover would have problems staying on in a stiff breeze. 





Daugela said:


> Most likely, I will not be installing a gutter. With that said, on the eave, shoud I install the drip edge, NOT the apron? And on the rake, only a drip edge? Not apron?



To me drip edge and apron are the same thing, a 3" x 3" piece of metal. The rake edge should be a T shaped piece of metal. As your running in to they are called all kinds of different things.

HD calls rake edge metal a drip edge, I guess technically it is.











A drip edge/gutter edge/eve edge flashing.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Sounds good. Any issues using the T on the eave? Especially if I decide to put a gutter on it? How is the gutter attached to the fascia if either the T drip edge or apron are applied before the gutter goes on?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

I can't say I've ever seen a rake edge metal used on the eve. I guess in theory it would work It doesn't have a long face to it. Either way the gutter slides up under the face of the metal. Then standard gutter straps are used.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Where I am it is common practice to install drip edge first along the edge where yor gutter will eventually attach....and then over that and up the rakes, making appropriate cuts at the peak so that it bends neatly over the top and a bit down the other rake on that end. If you want to wrap the fascia, also common, it simply slips up under the edge which is kept about an eight of an inch off of the face. Ron


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Ron

Can you link me to a site or video that shows how to cut the drip edge at the eave corner?


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I did:
1. Chalk line on deck so the eave edge will be just snug (not tight) to facia. Follow the line, not facia, for the edging. Edging should not bend to facia and buckle on top.

2. Ice shield to edge of drip edge and 1/2" or so overhanging the rake and bend the shield. Same with tar paper courses upwards. Rake edging went over the shield and paper, cut even with eave edge. Shingles overhang the edging by 1". 

3. Gutter should be under the drip edge. May be you can slip it under the edging, but you will need 3 people or so. Plan for gutter cover also (I have not found gutter cover that works without cleaning). Pitch the gutter so you will see the pitch. Pretty, level gutters do not drain.

4. My facia trim was 2x6 and covered with self bent sheet metal that slipped under the edging. Facia metal on the rake was bent so it goes over the vinyl siding channel. Most vinyl jobs I see have facia metal then vinyl channel going over it and the joint caulked - big mistake, as far as I am concerned.


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Daugela said:


> Ron
> 
> Can you link me to a site or video that shows how to cut the drip edge at the eave corner?


Start at 9:50 or so.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6nvkXPAMmE


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

1985gt said:


> I can't say I've ever seen a rake edge metal used on the eve. I guess in theory it would work It doesn't have a long face to it. Either way the gutter slides up under the face of the metal. Then standard gutter straps are used.


So to beat a dead horse, a T drip edge for the rake and an apron for the eave?


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

We use "T" for both.:thumbsup:


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

roofermann said:


> We use "T" for both.:thumbsup:


Really? So on the eave, do your still let the shingles hang over the T lip about a 1/4" or so?


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Yes we do. keeps water from "wicking" uphill due to capillary action. Roofing practices vary a bit by region, which is why you're getting conflicting advice.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

roofermann said:


> Yes we do. keeps water from "wicking" uphill due to capillary action. Roofing practices vary a bit by region, which is why you're getting conflicting advice.


Interesting. I appreciate your input. Especially the reasoning behind your comments. Makes total sense. I think you're right about practices, terms, etc, varying by region. 

Now the question is, what practice is common in MY region? Phoenix. 

Like I said, we get minimal rainfall except for our monsson season in which we'll get 2 inches of rain in one quick thunderstorm. Not sure if we have a "wicking" problem since the rain comes and goes so quickly. 

I suppose either way, it wouldn't hurt to use the D style flashing like you do all the way around and bend at the corners...

If D flashing is superior, why do some still use the apron style?


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Habit I guess.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

roofermann said:


> Habit I guess.


I asked you a question about this on another thread, but figured it would be best to continue with this thread. 

I bought T flashing for my barn and and totally confused on the corner bends. I'm thinking it's not possible! I'm starting to wonder if an paron style is best for a gambrel roof. 

Take a look at this pic. It's not my barn but a pic I got off the internet. I finally learned how to make a bend/cut in T flashing for an outside corner, but where I circled, this is not just an outside corner, but also an upward bend. How do you make that bend with T flashing?

Do I just make an outside corner and then bend upward? Seems not right.


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

You need to have two separate pieces there. Install eave piece flush with outside edge of rake, then rake piece flush with bottom edge of eave piece.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

roofermann said:


> You need to have two separate pieces there. Install eave piece flush with outside edge of rake, then rake piece flush with bottom edge of eave piece.


Ok. So where they both meet, there will be a slight opening between the two. Similar to the picture above? Or should I cut the rake piece more on an angle, so it matches that eave corner piece?


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Slide the rake piece down onto the eave piece to cover that.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

roofermann said:


> We use "T" for both.:thumbsup:


Do you use an fascia extension to be able to pitch the gutters?


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Sometimes, if gutter is too low we'll put a piece of white coil over the back of gutter and under the drip edge.


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