# Fireplace framing/tile issue



## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

Alot depends on if the fireplace has to maintain a set clearance from combustibles. Is the fireplace an insert type where it can be close to combustibles if so you need to get the manual or look on the box somewhere for the clearances. And also the electronics shelf you plan on putting in the wall might be too close to the stack in the wall. Just some things to check out before you push forward. Also just because you never had a problem with it before doesn't mean it is safe, Perfect example is the brick ties. If they skimped there I can imagine what it might look like in the wall. Just double check everything for safety sake.


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## robdville (Oct 21, 2007)

James, thank you for the reply; you couldn't be more right about cutting corners. 

I have checked the wall; below is a pic w/insulation pulled. Initially I agreed w/you about the vertical pipe, but now I'm not sure. The vertical studs were pretty close and the stuffed w/insulation to boot.

Re: the fireplace, I do believe it is an insert type; as to model#s -where can I typically find that? -Getting to the back side of this is not really an option as rooms have been added to the back of the house which have enclosed the fireplace.

Lastly, the wife and I found these yesterday @ Lowe's, which I would like to add to the front of the box (black area) -thus eliminating the need for studs/drywall around it. -realizing of course that I have to chisel away the riser bricks; what say you or others?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The existing framing is likely within the tolerances allowed by code. You could add framing with metal studs to eliminate fire hazard and use durock rather than drywall for tile backer. It's a better substrate for tile anyway. You could also put a piece of 1/2" durock on to of the hearth to it even with the protruding brick, then a layer of 1/4" over the entire surface to get it all on an even plane. When you go to attempting to chisel 1/2" off those brick, they'll likely break apart. If so, just fill the gap with mortar and tile over. Just a couple of ideas.......


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## robdville (Oct 21, 2007)

Great ideas, BJ -I hadn't even thought of metal studs, h- I'm not sure where to even buy any in my area -will definitely check out though!

You mentioned the durock on the hearth etc. -based on that, I assume that heat will not be much of an issue for it (the durock)?

That said, how about facing the firebox (the area which has mortar on it) w/ durock and then tile? I'm looking for zero-clearance overlay doors (to dress up the front), but having no luck so far. Do you see any heat issues in that area? 

A buddy recommended starting a fire and seeing how hot everything gets. -I could do that I suppose, but it's not exactly scientific .



Thanks,

R Davis


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Home Depot and Lowes both carry metal studs if you decide to do some framing, perhaps to add another "profile" to the fireplace. Dorock is cement based, so heat shouldn't be an issue to my knowledge. I've seen it used in this situation......and you could face the firebox with it. I would think the only issue you would have with heat would be with your choice of tile. I can't be of much help there, but mfgr's. specs should be available on their web site. Or you could post on the "flooring" forum on this site. There are tile pros there who can help I'm sure. Best of luck!


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## robdville (Oct 21, 2007)

BJ,

Okay, did a couple of tests last night. -non scientific of course.

-I started a fire; typically average of what we would use; I received no heat on the box or '<sp> flue </sp>' pipe in the wall. The facing of the box was actually cool. This fire burned most of the night and never saw heat issues.

-I did some reading about the metal studs and found a point of concern; what do you think of this:

"Metal framing has no structural strength and can only be used for partition walls. "
-Source: http://www.thumbandhammer.com/diy/framing.html

This wall will be very small; just as you said -to give the surround a differ profile. I'm not concerned w/a little additional costs; I'm more concerned w/the surround collapsing due to the weight of the tile.


Thanks again for all your input,

R Davis


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

It will be fine. The metal will hold the amount of weight that you're going to put on it. The above reference is to load bearing walls most likely (don't have time to read it right now). And you CAN use metal studs for structural purposes. It just has to be the proper gauge, usually 16 or 18 gauge.......


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## robdville (Oct 21, 2007)

ARGH! 

BJ, I've been to all the big box stores in my area; only HD has steel framing studs, but they only carry 25 gauge; yikes!

I sought the opinion of the kids in HD -incompetence reigns supreme, I choose not to trust anything they say .

What do you think?


Thanks for all your help,

R Davis


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

25 gauge should be fine. If you're concerned, look for a drywall supply in the yellow pages. They should stock 20 gauge which is definitely ok. Harder to cut with snips (but do-able) or use a saw with a metal blade. And you'll need self-tapping screws.


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## robdville (Oct 21, 2007)

Cool, thanks! -last question, promise  

-what is a good price per? -HD here is 6.50 and the tract is only in 10' sections.


Thanks again,

R Davis


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I show $6.50 for 12' studs, $5.20 for 10'. They usually carry 8' also, but were not listed on HD Contractor Services (I'd guess around $4.00). Track of any gauge comes in 10' lengths, I'm showing $4.87 for 25 gauge at HD. Metal USED to be cheaper than wood........


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## robdville (Oct 21, 2007)

man, not so here. 6.50 for 8', 8+/- for tract and more for 10'/12' -oh well, is what it is I suppose.

R Davis


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Ouch! I wonder if a price increase is headed this way?? At least you don't need a lot of material.


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