# Complaints about cheap table saws



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Might depend on the shape of the fence. The fence for my table saw broke and I've been using a 1x clamped to the table.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pman626 said:


> The most common complaint about cheap table saws, like the Porter Cable $99 Black Friday special, is that the fence sucks and can't stay square during cuts.
> 
> if you clamped the fence with large C clamps, wouldn't that solve the problem?


I have not broke a fence but or found one that moved, the problem is they can't be trusted to be square to the table when you lock it. After setting a distance to the fence Measure past the blade to the edge of the table and make sure the fence has that measurement after it is locked in place at both ends of the fence.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

pman626 said:


> ... the fence sucks and can't stay square during cuts.


More likely I think the issue is that the fence is not square after clamping, rather than the fence moves during the cut.

I have the big Rigid table saw. Have not had problems with the fence, but before clamping, I give the fence a couple of "love taps" with the palm of my hand to let it settle to its natural position, in case I pushed it askew a little while moving it.


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## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

SPS-1 said:


> More likely I think the issue is that the fence is not square after clamping, rather than the fence moves during the cut.
> 
> I have the big Rigid table saw. Have not had problems with the fence, but before clamping, I give the fence a couple of "love taps" with the palm of my hand to let it settle to its natural position, in case I pushed it askew a little while moving it.


How do you like your Rigid saw? Looking into upgrading to a contractor type saw and looking at this, Delta, and Jet.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

No issues with the Rigid R4512. But its not quite a $99 special.

Consider also how you are going to move it and where it is going. Its 270 pounds plus packaging. I disassembled it as much as practical and still had a hard time getting it into my basement.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

After all else fails, read the instruction manual. Just don't let the wife catch you.:biggrin2:


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I use this one https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...Portable-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4513/100090444 on my jobsite trailer and it performs flawlessly. Again, not a $99 Black Friday special, but a good quality saw.


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## pman626 (Jun 28, 2016)

after years of procrastinating, i've decided to start building my loose tenon shaker cabinet door rails and stiles, which only requires simple identical cuts and two passes through the table saw to make a bunch of grooves.

I'm going to try the $99 special for chits and giggles, and hopefully not end up like the bad reviews where the saw motor blew up and caught fire.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

IMHO, if I only wanted spend $100 on table saw, I would check around for a older used one and leave the $100 model on the shelf. So many people get small saws like this, use it just a few times and then store it for 15+ years, then moma puts it in the yard sale!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Think about it, a decent circular saw cost over $100, how can they make a whole table saw for less than that? 
Not worth the money!


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

My el cheapo Ace Hardware special from a few years ago actually cuts well. The problem is, it spits the sawdust right back into your face. :biggrin2:

So if you are buying a used saw, (any saw), give it a test drive and cut a few boards before you close a deal.
.
.


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## pman626 (Jun 28, 2016)

nah, I've seen the garbage on craigslist. Nothing worth picking up around LA for $100.

porter cable has a 3 year warranty + 1 year credit card warranty.
Let's see how good their warranty is when the motor blows up.
I heard they suck heheh


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

ZZZZZ said:


> So if you are buying a used saw, (any saw), give it a test drive and cut a few boards before you close a deal.


That will basically just tell you condition of the blade. Old saw = old blade. If you are investing in a used saw, at least buy a new blade. 

Although a ragged cut can be caused by play in the shaft (thus blade). Any decent saw will have shaft running in bearings. Cheap saws may have shaft running in bushings, which will eventually wear and develop play.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

When comes to these table saws, you really do get what you pay for.

Follow the logic. If the big box stores are selling a table saw for $99, imagine how little they are paying for it in order to turn a profit. For the manufacturer to sell at that cost and still turn a profit, there cost to manufacture must be commensurate. This means they are essentially going to bolt a low cost circular saw to a pressed aluminum top along with a cheap extruded aluminum fence. What you end up with is a hobbyist saw more suited to building bird houses than coffee and end tables.

If you are an even semi-serious woodworker, take Yodaman's advice and spend the $100 on a decent used saw. On Craigslist you can find Craftsman 113 series saws for as little as $75. A little elbow grease and a new blade and you will have a saw that is substantially better than a new $99 big box saw.

This is my Craftsman 113 series table saw.










It is a belt driven 10" saw with cast iron top and cast iron wings. I got it in exchange for $50 and couple hours helping install some molding. When I first got it there was some rust on the top and the cheap blade was warped. The first thing I did was take clean it thoroughly and lubed all the adjustment mechanisms. I cleaned the rust off the top using steel wool and WD40 followed by a coat of paste wax and installed a new carbide tip blade. 

Over the years I have installed an aftermarket fence, zero-clearance insert, safety splitter, link belt, machined pulleys, and retractable casters. The link belt and machined pulleys alone practically eliminated vibration.

I have cut strips as thin as 1/16" on this saw.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

You guys are making me look cheeeeeeep and and feel bad having 25 dollar saws for 40 years. :vs_mad: But I have two, 1 for rips and 1 for crosscuts. The cast iron rip fence hanging on the traverse rod to the left weighs12 pounds, clamps on operator end only and doesn't need frequent calibration.:biggrin2:


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

SeniorSitizen said:


> You guys are making me look cheeeeeeep and and feel bad having 25 dollar saws for 40 years. :vs_mad: But I have two, 1 for rips and 1 for crosscuts. The cast iron rip fence hanging on the traverse rod to the left weighs12 pounds, clamps on operator end only and doesn't need frequent calibration.:biggrin2:



I like it SS, looks our first TS. Cast iron, bench mount, belt drive. Not sure where my father picked it up, but I remember thinking it was old when he brought it home back in the early 70's.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> You guys are making me look cheeeeeeep and and feel bad having 25 dollar saws for 40 years. :vs_mad: But I have two, 1 for rips and 1 for crosscuts. The cast iron rip fence hanging on the traverse rod to the left weighs12 pounds, clamps on operator end only and doesn't need frequent calibration.:biggrin2:


I am going on the premise that you purchased the saws new. You cannot call it being cheap when you take into consideration that accounting for inflation your $25 saw in 1977 would cost a little over $100 today..., significantly more if you bought them used.

One also cannot ignore the fact that those saws have cast iron rip fence and appear to have cast iron tops making their quality substantially superior to saws today in the same price range.

You sir was not being cheap..., you was being savvy. :thumbup1:


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

I made the mistake of going to the Wood Craft store to pick up some General Finished stain the other day and man that have some sweet equipment. Had to put my blinders on to get out of there. Same feeling as going to the auto swap meets.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Sometimes all a cheap table saw needs is anchored down.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> I would check around for a older used one


My only experience with cheaper saws is the motor failing. Direct drive Ryobi TS for example. I have two frames with burned out motors in my barn. Replacement cost of motor....$100, so there they will sit until someone comes up with an alternative. I use a Delta 5HP Unisaw in my shop, but have my good old Craftsman still. I won't get rid of it as it owes no one anything. Probably circa 1973. I think you can find a used Craftsman saw in that price range at online yard sales, etc. easier than you can on Craig's list. Local is always better.


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