# Kitchen cabinets: BM Advance or SW Proclassic



## carolinakiwi (Jul 9, 2014)

We will be painting our kitchen cabinets soon. I just can't decide between BM Advance (waterborne alkyd) or SW Proclassic (waterbased acrylic-alkyd). Either we will have a contractor do it or I will do it myself.

Has anyone used both BM Advance or SW Proclassic for painting cabinets and have thoughts/opinions on use/longevity? I've googled and googled, but can't find any comparison between the two for cabinets. Secondly, what finish do you recommend for cabinets (satin, semi-gloss)?

The retail cost for consumers for BM Advance is $58.99, and the cost for Proclassic is $79 (I think), so cost may be the determining factor. Although $20 isn't much to squabble over (for just 1 gallon). With 10% discount at my SW store, it'd be roughly $70 before tax for the Proclassic.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I've not used Advance, but, have used ProClassic many, many times over the years. It is a beautiful finish IMO. I did my own bookshelves and doors underneath the bookshelves 8 years ago and, if it weren't for some wear and tear from kids, they would look like I just applied the paint. I have at least a dozen customers who have had me use ProClassic on their kitchen cabinets and I have never, ever had one callback about problems. It's just one of those paints that you have to hustle with putting it on. Not that you have to hurry yourself, but you don't want to take any long 5 minute breaks or the paint will set up on you, leaving lap marks and producing drag marks.

P.S. Satin is fine, but, I prefer Semi-gloss on cabinets.


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## carolinakiwi (Jul 9, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> I've not used Advance, but, have used ProClassic many, many times over the years. It is a beautiful finish IMO. I did my own bookshelves and doors underneath the bookshelves 8 years ago and, if it weren't for some wear and tear from kids, they would look like I just applied the paint. I have at least a dozen customers who have had me use ProClassic on their kitchen cabinets and I have never, ever had one callback about problems. It's just one of those paints that you have to hustle with putting it on. Not that you have to hurry yourself, but you don't want to take any long 5 minute breaks or the paint will set up on you, leaving lap marks and producing drag marks.
> 
> P.S. Satin is fine, but, I prefer Semi-gloss on cabinets.


 Thank you very much. SW is more accessible to me, as it's only 5 minutes away. I have a couple BM stores within a reasonable distance from my office, but makes for a planned trip for sure.


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## carolinakiwi (Jul 9, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> I've not used Advance, but, have used ProClassic many, many times over the years. It is a beautiful finish IMO. I did my own bookshelves and doors underneath the bookshelves 8 years ago and, if it weren't for some wear and tear from kids, they would look like I just applied the paint. I have at least a dozen customers who have had me use ProClassic on their kitchen cabinets and I have never, ever had one callback about problems. It's just one of those paints that you have to hustle with putting it on. Not that you have to hurry yourself, but you don't want to take any long 5 minute breaks or the paint will set up on you, leaving lap marks and producing drag marks.
> 
> P.S. Satin is fine, but, I prefer Semi-gloss on cabinets.


 Would you mind reading this blog post an chime in as to why she had chipping with the SW Proclassic? She thinks it may be because she let the primer cure too long before painting her island with the Proclassic.

http://www.bowerpowerblog.com/2013/02/benjamin-vs-sherwin/


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Who knows. That's why I don't recommend getting advice from those amateur blogs. They don't know what the variables are so you never know why their projects worked or didn't work. It's always good to give the primer coat a scuff painting in a situation like this where you want good adhesion of the top coat, and of course it helps keep everything smooth, too.

Assuming you are not spraying, a good technique is to roll the paint on fairly quickly, and then brush it out. Just make sure the paint is not rolled on too thickly, or else you'll getting sagging. It's very difficult to brush out extra thickness in the paint in the time you have to work it.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I agree with Jeff, who knows? She didn't state what type of primer she used, and, to be honest, you can let the primer set for months without a topcoat and not have problems as long as no cleaners or other surface contaminants got on the island in the interim. I'm guessing that they thinned the paint down incorrectly or too much before spraying, if they did indeed spray the island. The waterborne paints are especially finicky when thinned down for spraying. The wrong type of thinner can be disastrous. With ProClassic, I rarely spray it because I get spray type results with a Whizz roller to apply the paint and then I quickly back brush and always get that super smooth finish that ProClassic is known for.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

I have not used Advance either, as we primarily use Sherwin Wiliams products. When ever we have kitchen cabinets to paint we use Proclassic. We have never had a problem using Proclassic and the end result looks great. There is a slight learning curve when using Proclassic. You need to work fast and not keep playing with the paint, but more importantly than what finish to use is going to be your prep work. Improper prep will cause paint failure no matter what finish coat you use.


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## rtcarlson (Nov 23, 2014)

Ben Moore advance is junk. Avoid it. This is coming from a big time BM fan too! I used it to paint a dresser we restored and it's quite possibly the least durable enamel finish I've seen. The finish is marred all over the place from very light usage. 

If you can get your hands on BM waterborne impervo, that's your ticket! Stuff goes on nicely, has good open time and levels great! We just painted some panelling in our nursery with and love the results!

ed: just read the sticky about product bashing. Definitely not my intent here, tried to write an objective post based on my experiences. Hopefully it did not cross any lines.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Ok in my opinion doing any cabinets in a oil hybrid is a bad idea. Either go straight oil,melamine epoxy or quick dry enamels. If your going to sherwin williams i would advice Pre-Cat waterborne Epoxy. Pre mixed for you. All you have to do is open the paint and go to work. You can clean it up with water. The reason for this product is it will 100 percent go harder than any other hybrid your looking at, I have used it many times my self works great. Best of luck


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

One thing that can adversely affect the durability of Advance is rushing the dry time. It can seem silly to wait 16 hours to recoat a paint that is dry to touch in an hour. When the water has evaporated out it becomes dry to touch, but the alkyd resins still need more time to dry before applying another coat. Re coating too soon can prevent proper curing and lead to a softer film.


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## rtcarlson (Nov 23, 2014)

*Hmm..*



Jmayspaint said:


> One thing that can adversely affect the durability of Advance is rushing the dry time. It can seem silly to wait 16 hours to recoat a paint that is dry to touch in an hour. When the water has evaporated out it becomes dry to touch, but the alkyd resins still need more time to dry before applying another coat. Re coating too soon can prevent proper curing and lead to a softer film.


I've never considered what you're suggesting, and I may have rushed my second coat. Thanks for the pointer!


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

It won't make it softer when it's cured. Just causes your 2 coats to form back into 1 coat. So your back at the beginning


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I like the Advance for spraying, Pro Classic for brush and roll.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Either one, if applied properly, with proper prep, will work just fine. Me? I would and do use Advance

despite this statement



"Ben Moore advance is junk."


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