# Is tape necessary to repair holes in drywall (in garage)?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Holes bigger than your fist need tape---smaller ones do not--although the mud may shrink and need a second coat.


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## m1951mm (Apr 16, 2011)

When you say you are seeing floor to ceiling holes patched every 16" or so, what you are seeing is the joint compound covering the nails and or screws that were used to hang the drywall. They really are not holes. The studs are behind those nails. (That is just an FYI for you if you plan to add any shelves or tool holders etc, the studs is where you would want to screw into for good support) In my garage I marked on the concrete floor next to the walls where the studs were for future reference. Made it easier than using a stud finder.

Hope this helps some.


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## Scotch99 (Aug 22, 2011)

Thanks for the replies. I felt a big sigh of relief that I won't have to tape over all those strips. I'm sure those are all patches of nail/screw holes. I guess I'll save my drywall tape for that chunk of missing drywall area where the former owners cut out to install an electronic exterior cat door (and neglected to replace the drywall in the surrounding area). I'm not ready to tackle that project yet; I figure I'll need to do more research to figure out how to cut and install missing drywall in that awkward area.

m1951mm: thanks for the suggestion re marking the concrete. That would come in super handy after we paint because we do plan to install our own shelving system.


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## m1951mm (Apr 16, 2011)

Replacing a piece of missing drywall is not that hard. If you have the studs exposed on either side of the opening, cut a new piece of drywall to size and nail (I prefer to use drywall screws 1 1/4" long) into the studs (hoping that you have about 1" to 3/4 of an inch of wood showing), to span the hole. You just need to make sure you have wood on atleast two sides showing to attach the new drywall to. I tend to add what is called a nailer at the top edge of the new piece. You can cut a piece of wood, be it 3/4" plywood, a scrap of 2 x 4, anything that is wide enough to get behind the old drywall and screw to (make sure to screw the old drywall to the nailer as well as the new piece) (you want atleast 1 1/2" of wood showing so you do not have to screw the very edge of the drywall, maybe about 1" in is the distance from the edge of the old drywall, and leave enough wood below the old drywall for the new piece to be screwed into.) The nailer is not necessary but it will help the new joint between the two pieces of drywall to act as one. Less possibility of a crack coming back to haunt you. Once that is done that is where your tape comes into play. First smear some joint compound on the perimeter of the new drywall, including getting some on the old, place the tape so the center of the tape is spanning both sides of the patch and then using a 6" drywall knife, smooth the tape into the compound, flattening it out. Let that dry and then smooth another layer of compound over the taped area. In a garage I would not worry about sanding smooth unless you want perfect walls. Once the second coat is dry and looks smooth enough to you it is ready for paint.

When you are ready to do that drywall patch, send pics of the hole and you might get better information. I know I threw out lots of info and it can be confusing. Drywall patching is really pretty easy!!!!!


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