# Butt joints very visible



## wrender (Feb 1, 2018)

For the butt joints in this room we used mesh tape and I guess not enough mud built on each side. After one coat of gray paint it is super visible in daylight. See photo.

Just wonder how to go back and make this better?


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Learning the art of mud and tape takes some practice and one constant issue is too much mud over seams. If you take a straight piece of wood or 4' level and set it across that bump you will see how much higher it is than the sides.

Correcting the problem will be tough but it can be improved. Having 2 electrical boxes there won't help.

Some options:
Since the electrical boxes will be a pain, (I know you don't want to heat this) but you could remove a 32" section of drywall, one stud bay to each side, and replace it with one sheet putting those boxes on a flat section. Then you address 2 but joints on each side but with less mud and better overall results. I have learned to enjoy drywall so that puppy would be out in a heart beat and I'm not a drywaller.

To address what is there, scuff up the paint, maybe sand the peak of the high ares, and add mud to the sides only. When it finally is feathered out a foot or more to each side then you skim a thin coat over all including the bump, but very little.

The pros will be along with better advice.

Bud


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## wrender (Feb 1, 2018)

Thanks bud! My wife basically threatened me when I talked about taking a section out. So ya I think I'll go with your second option! 😁


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Check on this tool Magnesium Slicker comes in length of 42" you can use it like a trowel it will remove the hump and feather it into the existing.
If you want to get a longer straight edge look at the Featheredge tool comes from 4' to 12' but not as easy to use as the Slicker.
You can find both in the Kraft tool catalog page # 113.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

wrender said:


> Thanks bud! My wife basically threatened me when I talked about taking a section out. So ya I think I'll go with your second option! 😁


LOL, I understand the risks. I have had to repair a few bumps where repeated repair efforts had created mountains. Fortunately the replace the drywall option is always on the table so if results of feathering what is there are unacceptable you can go the nuclear route.

But, bumps are very difficult to hide on a flat surface. The light and the texture of the paint will have a bigger effect than going for perfect.

There is another approach which still involves replacing a section of drywall but it might offer better results. I have never used it but some reading and reasoning says it might work, buttboards. You join to butt ends in the middle of a stud bat with this special board behind the edges. The board bends the drywall just enough to allow the joint to come out flush.

Good luck

Bud


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Watch some u-tube videos on butt joint finishing.

Get a pail of light weight finishing compound.

A 12'' finishing knife.

No better way to learn than by doing. And you will be ready for next time.


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## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Check on this tool Magnesium Slicker comes in length of 42" you can use it like a trowel it will remove the hump and feather it into the existing.


You just reminded me of the 2 Slickers i got someplace in my shop from my plastering days. Got a full length and one cut down for closets.:wink2:


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

78Vette said:


> You just reminded me of the 2 Slickers i got someplace in my shop from my plastering days. Got a full length and one cut down for closets.:wink2:


I never have understood why the drywall trade does not use this tool to check wall for high & low areas and to repair same?


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## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

ClarenceBauer said:


> I never have understood why the drywall trade does not use this tool to check wall for high & low areas and to repair same?


If i had to guess, i'd say, they're not aware of such a tool and i haven't needed it myself for the little dry walling i do on occasion. If drywalling was my bread and butter, it would always be in my truck.


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## wrender (Feb 1, 2018)

So I ended up stripping paint back to the mesh tape on the top joint. Then did a really thin coat of all purpose mud. I hope it bonds enough on the paint part.

On the bottom I just added a thin coat on each side.

I'm not sure but I think that should blend it much better in daylight.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Wrender, from the pics it looks a lot better. Bud is so right about how long it takes to master the art of spackle & tape. I had a boss who always said that.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

The green lid all purpose mud as good adhesion properties and should adhere fine to the paint. Butt joints are typically 18"-24" wide when finished.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

> Butt joints are typically 18"-24" wide when finished.


That's what they should be but most people don't own a large putty knife. They try to do all coats w/ the same size knife. I'm guilty of that too.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I couldn't imagine using anything less than a 10" knife for butt joints!


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