# Range Not Flush with Backsplash



## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

My somewhat new range has a 3" overhang from the back wall due to a protruding power cable. The manual says the outlet is supposed to be lower so the range can rest flush to the wall but my outlet is too high. 

I asked my electrician friend about this and he said it's because the receptacles needed to be installed a bit lower so that it gets swallowed by the oven when you push it back.

I would like to have the stove resting flush with the wall, not build or buy a template or cover to hide that overhang, as I've read others doing. Is dropping the outlet the only way to accomplish this?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

The kitchen in question is directly above the electrical panel so I assume the wire comes from below, for what it's worth.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That's the only way to do it.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

About how many of those tiles do you think I'd need to remove to relocate the outlere where I need it?


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

if the panel is directly below the range, I would just run it through the floor and mount the receptacle flat to the floor.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Come to think of it, based on the manual, the outlet would need to be lowered to where the white tile baseboard is.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

hardwareman said:


> if the panel is directly below the range, I would just run it through the floor and mount the receptacle flat to the floor.



Why do you prefer mounting it on the floor as opposed to just lowering it on the same way? Wouldn't the first be more difficult since you're moving it further?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

*lowering it on the same wall


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

why cut out another hole or knock out tile on your wall when you can just drill a 1/2" hole in your floor and mount an outlet.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

hardwareman said:


> why cut out another hole or knock out tile on your wall when you can just drill a 1/2" hole in your floor and mount an outlet.


Mounting an outlet in the floor would also require kocking out tile... so I don't see the logic in wanting to undo the current recepticle, only to have to fish the line back down the wall and then through the floor to make an outlet on the floor when I can just bring it down the wall 6 inches... Am I missing something here that makes you think the floor outlet will be easier..?


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

thats a tile floor ?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Solidify said:


> View attachment 136945


Yes, that's what the photos are for...


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

bust out the tiles right where the outlet is. see what is back there. either lower the outlet. or recess it back into the wall.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

or put the stove up on blocks :laughing:


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Knock out a few wall tiles and lower it. It is behind the range and you will never see it.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Lol nice try but putting the stove on blocks would make it so the stovetop doesn't align with the countertops.. Solves one problem but creates another

I'll take out some tiles and lower the outlet. This will be my first time working with a 240v outlet (most ive done is replace a 15amp receptacle).

Besides turning off the breaker for the outlet, are they any special considerations i should take for this project, whether that concerns saving the tiles im removing or electrical?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

you don't need to save any tiles. except to perhaps use them to do a repair somewhere else. as those tiles now, cannot be seen when the stove is in place. why they were put there in the first place, idk, there not needed. 

nothing special about the 240v. just mark/note the wiring and have at it. maybe a new box.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Good point abt not needing the preserve the tiles.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

just let us know how it goes, as it goes is even better.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I got started but I cant find the stud that the outlet is nailed/screwed to. This is an outside wall (brick on the other side) so I think what they did it nailed the back side of the box into the cement or brick or whatever is behind that outlet. How screwed am I now?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

The white material visible through the back holes of the outlet box seems like Styrofoam of some sort, maybe some sort of insulation material that was code in 1972, when the home was built.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Attach the box to the bottom plate.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

What do you mean by the "bottom plate?"


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Ok, so I found out that the bottom plate is the framing that is on the floor (sorry I'm not very good with these things).

The next I'd like to ask is:

Should I take my drywall saw and only cut out the spot at the bottom where the new outlet will be?

Or

To make my life easier, can I also remove the drywall that would otherwise be left between the current outlet cutout and the new cutout I'm anticipating?

The reason I'm asking is because, while I understand that this will not be visible behind the range, I would still like to close it up with drywall for rodents, insulation and such, and therefore, I'm trying to plan what my patch will have to screw into since at the moment, I only see one piece of wood (the bottom plate).

An illustration using my photos would be very helpful if anyone could spare a few minutes.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

More progress:























I only have about an inch of wood (the bottom plate) to screw/nail the box into once I move it. I hope the screw holes on the box are located forward enough in proportion to the bottom plate or my box, when fastened, will either sit too far back or proud from the drywall.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

At the same time I'm wondering about two more things:

1. If the box holes doesn't line up well with my bottom plate, can I supply pop two nails into that styrofoam insulation like the builders did initially? The current box seems pretty solid like that so I'm assuming repeating that process would also work for me.

2. Also, how will I slide my box and feed down into my new slot with that remaining piece of drywall in between them, not to mention the insulation? Would it be easier to remove that remaining piece? And if I did so, in theory, the box would slide down easily but something tells me that the line won't be so easy to bring down with it since there's no room for it to pass because of the drywall behind the tiles to the right.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

hardwareman said:


> if the panel is directly below the range, I would just run it through the floor and mount the receptacle flat to the floor.


his idea still has merit---if you abandoned the existing line--used a surface mounted outlet on the floor or base board--you would have the job done quickly---

or pull the existing line out of the wall and use that to power a surface mounted box---


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'd have to take out floor tile (more tile) not to mention I'd be working blind because I don't know where the line passes. I already made this cutout and I'd like to continue with lowering the box on the wall.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

take a long nail and poke into the foam to see what is back there. 


looking closer. is there conduit in your house ? it looks like there is. you may have to leave that box there and use it as a junction box. then put a new box below it.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

How will poking a nail in the foam tell me what is behind the foam? I know there is a brick wall behind it but I don't know if there's anything between the foam and the brick. Judging from the fact that the builders were able to nail the existing box through the foam and have it hold firmly, there's either a) wood behind the foam; b) nothing behind the foam and the nail is holding in the foam; or c) the nail is holding in the brick behind the foam somehow.

But again, I don't see how knowing what is behind the foam will help me. It hold now, it should hold again.

If by 'conduit' you mean electrical conduit, no, there is not. My home is entirely sleeves copper wire. There is no BX Metal Sheathed Wire or the like. What makes you think there is electrical conduit? If you're looking at that silver paper, I think that's meant to be the vapor barrier on both sides of the foam board insulation.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

hold on a minute


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

see the fitting, red arrow. that fitting is known to work with conduit. this would make the job of "moving" that box, harder. 

but, maybe that is one of those "romex clamp fittings", idk, just asking.

hold on, i lost the pic :furious:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

..................................


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

> maybe that is one of those "romex clamp fittings"


Right you are. Those are Romex clamp fittings, like this:










My home is entirely Romex, there is no conduit.

Now that we've established that, how do I slide the box and wire down through everything that's in between the new and old cutouts?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ok then. 

now. you need to figure out if you "can" move the wiring down. with all that stuff back there, it may be a problem.


i am still thinking that is would be much easier to use that box as a junction box. and put a new box below it. that way, you don't have to move the box, just the outlet.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I like your idea to put a blank metal box cover over the existing box to be used as a junction box and then simply retrofit a new outlet box below. However, that would not only require purchasing wire, a new box and blank cover, the proper size wire nuts, another (if not two) Romex clamp fittings, all of which costs money and time to the hardware store. 

I'd like to first find out *if* I _can_, like you say, move the wiring down. If I can't then I'll proceed with the junction box. 

Now, how do I find out if I can move the wiring down?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

take off the tile to the right of the box and see what is back there.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Fix'n it said:


> take off the tile to the right of the box and see what is back there.


Should removing this suffice?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

idk. but ya gotta start somewhere.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

is your whole kitchen that flower tile ?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

The whole floor is that flower tile.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

well, i hope you like it


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

It's not my style lol still not sure why brought that up though...


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

*why you brought


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## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

This is me personally, but I would take a drywall saw & cut a slit over to the nearest stud's. One on each side of the outlet. The outlet should be mounted to a stud but I guess anything is possible.

Then remove all the drywall from that point down to the floor, along with tiles. Screw 2 shim studs to the current studs, attach the outlet box (might wanna just buy a new one) to one of those studs, your pref which ever works best as close to the floor as you can get it.. Cut a hole for it in new sheetrock & screw it in place. I wouldnt do anything past that, the stove is gonna cover it.

Simple fix that probably wouldnt take more than a hour & $20 in materials, depending what you have laying around the house.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

There's a reason that box was nailed into the foam board the way it is and exactly where it is. My guess is it's because the next closest stud(s) would leave the box too far off center for a proper range outlet. It may be easier to work the way you've suggested, but removing that much drywall and tile (arguably for nothing) is not something I'd like to do. 

I agree that nailing the box to a foam insulation board is iffy and it should always be fastened to a stud but I'm not in the business of tearing down that much tile and drywall to find studs, visible or not.

Worst case scenario, I'll buy one of those blue 2-gang retrofit boxes that don't need to be fastened to studs and are fastened to the drywall:


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## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

Looking at the image in post #38(the one with the red box on it), It looks like the stove is completely surrounded by cabinets. Most studs are 16"oc, 24" if the walls were built with 2X6. 

The outlet doesn't need to be center with the stove, Just needs to be close enough for the power cord to reach, which with most cords ive seen for a range are about 6 foot long. There should be a space under your stove to house the cord regardless of where you put the outlet.

I mean, your call but it would save you from physically pulling tiles off the wall. Just take a drywall saw & cut right on the grout line of the tile directly above the outlet.

Again, your home your decision. Just giving my best advice on how I would do it brah. Mahalo


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Hick said:


> *The outlet doesn't need to be center with the stove*, Just needs to be close enough for the power cord to reach, which with most cords ive seen for a range are about 6 foot long. There should be a space under your stove to house the cord regardless of where you put the outlet.



Actually, according to my range's manual, the outlet needs to located at a fairly specific (and centre) location due to its bottom drawer:











Hick said:


> I mean, your call but it would save you from physically pulling tiles off the wall. *Just take a drywall saw & cut right on the grout line of the tile directly above the outlet.*


And even if I did that, I'd still have to take off all the tiles along that grout line above the outlet, which judging from the picture is about 5 and a half tiles, still more than the 2 or 3 I'd be removing if continued to lower the outlet as planned.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Perhaps you can screw a steel box into the bottom plate of the wall.

Check the box size needed for that outlet---


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

oh'mike said:


> Perhaps you can screw a steel box into the bottom plate of the wall.
> 
> Check the box size needed for that outlet---


That's what I was going for, that's why I cut out the drywall as low as I can, flush to the bottom plate. Someone had already suggested it:



rjniles said:


> Attach the box to the bottom plate.


The new cutout is exactly the size of the current box. The reason I brought up the surrounding elements is because, in the event that the screw holes in the box that must be used to fasten it to the bottom plate don't line up well with the bottom plate, I'd need to find something else to fasten the box to, and that's when I started considering nailing it into the foam board like the previous builder did.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ok, i'm back. did you do anything ? what ?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I didn't have a chance to continue working on it today, I was busy removing my temporary winter car shelter. Wednesday I'll work on it again and keep this thread up to speed.


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## shaftmaster (Mar 30, 2015)

Solidify said:


> The reason I brought up the surrounding elements is because, in the event that the screw holes in the box that must be used to fasten it to the bottom plate don't line up well with the bottom plate, I'd need to find something else to fasten the box to, and that's when I started considering nailing it into the foam board like the previous builder did.


First, if the screw holes in the box don't line up then just drill your own screw holes in the box.

Second, when you remove the nails that hold the box in it's current location you should be able to tell if they go through the foam insulation and into some wood or masonry behind the foam. If they come out easily then I assume they don't penetrate anything other than the foam, which seems unlikely but who knows?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

shaftmaster said:


> Second, when you remove the nails that hold the box in it's current location you should be able to tell if they go through the foam insulation and into some wood or masonry behind the foam. If they come out easily then I assume they don't penetrate anything other than the foam, which seems unlikely but who knows?


That's not really a concern but whether or not there's something behind the foam that's the nails will hold to, they are holding firmly now, so chances are the new location will hold as well. But good call.


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## funflyer (Dec 5, 2014)

Just a thought...why couldn't you use the existing box as a junction and hard wire the stove? If you use a clamp at one of the knockouts going straight down and use a cover over the box that would give you the room to move the stove back. I know it is inconvenient and may require a longer cord but how often will you need to remove the stove anyway. It could still be pulled out for cleaning when needed.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

The appliance requires a disconnect provided by the cord.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Funflyer,




Solidify said:


> I like your idea to put a blank metal box cover over the existing box to be used as a junction box and then simply retrofit a new outlet box below. However, that would not only require purchasing wire, a new box and blank cover, the proper size wire nuts, another (if not two) Romex clamp fittings, all of which costs money and time to the hardware store.
> 
> I'd like to first find out *if* I _can_, like you say, move the wiring down. If I can't then I'll proceed with the junction box.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

rjniles said:


> The appliance requires a disconnect provided by the cord.



I dont think funflyer is talking about hardwiring the stove rj, he's simply resuggesting adding a new box to plug the stove, rather than moving the new one.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

*rather than moving the old one


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## funflyer (Dec 5, 2014)

I was thinking to wire the stove cord directly to the junction. Didn't know a disconnect is required at the stove, so the breaker wouldn't suffice as a disconnect for service? I know the stove in my last house was never unplugged for 22 years and only pulled out for spring cleaning once a year.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Oh, then I misunderstood. No, I guess the breaker doesn't count as a disconnect.


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## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

funflyer said:


> Just a thought...why couldn't you use the existing box as a junction and hard wire the stove? If you use a clamp at one of the knockouts going straight down and use a cover over the box that would give you the room to move the stove back. I know it is inconvenient and may require a longer cord but how often will you need to remove the stove anyway. It could still be pulled out for cleaning when needed.


I agree with this & likely what I would do in the situation, even if it isnt code.

That....& I think this would be code (someone clarify) have conduit running into the box, using it as a junction & simply having the outlet sitting inside a junction box resting on the floor for it to be plugged into. Not sure if that would be allowed or not, but would completely resolve the issue to remodel.

But yeah. If I was in this position, I would do what funflyer suggested.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Posters should not encourage others to willfully create code violations.


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> My somewhat new range has a 3" overhang from the back wall due to a protruding power cable. The manual says the outlet is supposed to be lower so the range can rest flush to the wall but my outlet is too high.
> 
> I asked my electrician friend about this and he said it's because the receptacles needed to be installed a bit lower so that it gets swallowed by the oven when you push it back.
> 
> ...


There are surface mount range receptacles made which I use on a regular basis and will fit into the designated area. I would take apart the existing range receptacle and see if it is possible to bring the existing wire down. If the electrical panel is below the stove, it is likely that the cable in the wall comes from below. The difficulty may be in loosening the staples or straps that may be holding the cable in the wall. If you can remove that electrical box from the wall, you may be able to reach in to dislodge the cable. You would need to drill into the tile down below and bring the wire through. The surface mount receptacle can be fed from behind or the side.

The other choice is to run a new line.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Looking at the bottom of your oven, it looks like the outlet would not have to be centered like suggested in the diagram. Not that it matters, but you said it had to be in a specific place. It looks like the entire bottom is open from side to side.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

mikegp said:


> Looking at the bottom of your oven, it looks like the outlet would not have to be centered like suggested in the diagram. Not that it matters, but you said it had to be in a specific place. It looks like the entire bottom is open from side to side.



The diagram has two different measurements for the outlet location. Mine has a storage drawer so granted it has more free room and thus may not need to be perfectly centered like you say but it still needs to be relatively in the middle because of both those wide stove sides and the fact that the plug, when connected sideways, is heavy gauge wire so it bulges out to the side a lot.

But yes, you're right, it doesn't need to be centered perfectly.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I'm not suggesting you do this, but just curious, if you remove the cover on the stove that you showed the wires hiding under, would the plug slide into that hole?


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I thought about doing that on day one but here are the issues with that:











I would still need to relocate the outlet box if I wanted to do that since it doesn't line up nicely with that cutout.
It's unsafe, not to mention, surely a code violation.
Even if I were able to slide the stove back and have that cutout swallow the outlet, it still wouldn't sit flush to the wall because the wire would still need an exit point (there's nowhere to exit the wire from the bottom of that cutout so it would need to come out the same way it came into the cutout).


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I'm sure 3 could be worked out, but I was just asking because it would be funny if it did.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

It's still a bad job/idea, no offense. But thanks for trying to help.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Solidify said:


> It's still a bad job/idea, no offense. But thanks for trying to help.


It's a terrible idea. That's why I said I wasn't suggesting it. :wink:

But where are we at as far as progress?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

We at 8 pages of posts on a simple project that should have taken 30 minutes to fix😬


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I haven't worked on it in a couple days now...can't stop people from posting, let alone those that repeat previously mentionned suggestions.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Also, rjniles and hardwareman, don't make the mistake of thinking that this job is harder than it seems based on how long this thread is or because the task has yet to be completed. There's no harm in keeping a thread open and therefore suggestions trailing as I put this project on hiatus for a couple of days.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

Solidify said:


> Also, rjniles and hardwareman, *don't make the mistake of thinking that this job is harder than it seems based on how long this thread is or because the task has yet to be completed.* There's no harm in keeping a thread open and therefore suggestions trailing as I put this project on hiatus for a couple of days.


believe me I have no false perception of how hard this job is, you are making it harder than it has to be. I still say you should have pulled the wire out of the wall, knocked out 1/4 floor tile, mounted the box to the floor. Get yourself a little sheetrock mud and fix your hole. 30 minutes max.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Solidify said:


> Also, rjniles and hardwareman, don't make the mistake of thinking that this job is harder than it seems based on how long this thread is or because the task has yet to be completed.


they aren't. they are basing their comments on how long it would take them to complete the job. though they do have a LOT more experience than us DIY'ers. 
even still, this shouldn't take very long.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'm not making it harder thaniut has to be, I'm simply taking my time and calculating all my moves before I rip out tile. And in the process, people keep posting on this thread, which is the eight pages you see... Despite me actually not having moved my stove/continued working on this for a couple of days.

Not every thread has to be a rush to complete or close. Don't take this thread still being open as an indication than I'm having trouble. I'm just working on it bit by bit.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Progress:


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> Progress:



I never would have expected that in the wall. 

It appears that the cable is too close to the wall board.

What is that white stuff, cement?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

That wall isn't traditionally framed, looks like it's firred out.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

The white stuff is insulation.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

MrElectricianTV said:


> I never would have expected that in the wall.



And that is exactly why I insist on treading cautiously, while others suggest this task to have taken 30 minutes, inferring that I'm either incompetent or highly unexperienced. I understand my building; I realize that unorthodox building practices are hidden inside all these walls because, well quite frankly, I keep finding them each next project I take. This is my reasoning for taking my time and reporting each step before continuing any further.

What you see there is a wall cavity with foam board insulation with two-sided aluminium vapour barriers (the vapour barriers were cut out with a utility knife but you can see some of it in earlier images.

It seems like the builded carved out the board as needed to retrofit the outlox box into it until it sat flush with the drywall, then they nailed it directly into the foam board with two nails. For the feed, it looks like they did the same thing: carved some styrofoam out to form the path to the box.

Certainly not code by today's standards but in 1972, who knows...

What's my next move?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

So that wall has regular framing? 2x4 or 2x6? I thought the white stuff was masonry.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'm not sure what the framing is and frankly I don't know how to find out. Is finding out imperative to finishing this job?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

your lucky = the wiring is going down.

take the box loose. make room for it where you want it. move it there. fasten it down how you want. patch the wall.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Fix'n it said:


> fasten it down how you want.



I'm assuming if I remove those two nails and renail another two into the foam board it will suffice? Granted I don't have much choice...

What would be the easiest way to carve out the foam im the shape of the box...because I need to recess it a bit


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> I'm assuming if I remove those two nails and renail another two into the foam board it will suffice? Granted I don't have much choice...
> 
> What would be the easiest way to carve out the foam im the shape of the box...because I need to recess it a bit



I would go with my original suggestion. Clean out the foam, bring the wire down and out, install a surface receptacle.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Are you talking about installing the receptacle on the floor?


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> Are you talking about installing the receptacle on the floor?



No. I am talking about mounting a surface range receptacle in the designated area on the wall. You can bring the cable out through the wall just above the bottom wood plate. Depending how it works out for you, you can bring the wire into the back of the surface receptacle or the side. You should be able to catch at least one wood screw in the bottom plate. I usually use toggle bolts in holes that don't line up with the wood.

http://tinyurl.com/Amazon-Range-Receptacle


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

How is that linked item different from what I'm currently using? It seems deeper, which is counterintuitive to what I'm trying to accomplish...


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> How is that linked item different from what I'm currently using? It seems deeper, which is counterintuitive to what I'm trying to accomplish...



It is all self-contained. No box is required and the protrusion into the space is usually not a problem if it is located in the designated area. It even comes with a cable clamp.

Since you already busted up the wall, you can take that existing box and mount it on the bottom plate flush with the wood. Get yourself a two gang 4 11/16" mud ring with the proper depth and mount that on the box. Finish the wall off and then mount the receptacle. Complete the job by getting a nice wallplate. The cover that is on there now is for surface mounted installations.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Why is the box currently mounted flush with the drywall but now you are asking me to mount it flush with the wood? Is this because I will be changing the receptacle?


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> Why is the box currently mounted flush with the drywall but now you are asking me to mount it flush with the wood? Is this because I will be changing the receptacle?



I always try to do a nice looking job even if it is hidden. By setting the box back and using a mud ring, you can hide the box in the wall and put a nice wall plate on to finish it off instead of the industrial look that you have now. You can certainly do it the way it was before.

http://tinyurl.com/Amazon-Range-Wallplate


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I'm confused, are the red and purple separate pieces or one?


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> I'm confused, are the red and purple separate pieces or one?



It is usually two pieces, but yours looks like one. You can buy that receptacle separately.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

When I move the box down to the new location, I would like to fasten it at the same depth as it is now, lined up with the drywall, in case I plan on re-tiling that wall eventually.


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

Solidify said:


> When I move the box down to the new location, I would like to fasten it at the same depth as it is now, lined up with the drywall, in case I plan on re-tiling that wall eventually.



Set it at the wood edge and use something like this: http://tinyurl.com/4-11-16-Adjustable-Mud-Ring You would have to go to an electrical supply to get it.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I did some more digging and food out there was wood behind the foam. I couldn't managed to remove the nails so I just abandoned the box and put a new one below.

This project is finally done, with the exception of having to put some drywall at the very least for potential rodents.

I'm glad it worked out half-decent since this was my first time working with a 240v outlet.


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## shaftmaster (Mar 30, 2015)

Unless you think you might need to move the wire back to the original box, I'd use a crowbar or claw hammer to pry it off or cut the nail heads off somehow. Then you can drywall/tile over the old box location.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I can still put drywall over the old box as is without an issue. But I'm not sure what the future holds (i.e.: the day I get a new range that news a higher outlet), so I'll leave it there. Doesn't bother anyone where it's not seen.

Thanks though.


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## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

Is that a metal stud the wire is coming thru?????


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Lmao no, as mentionned in earlier posts, that silver material is the remnants of what used to be a foam board insulation with double-sided aluminium sheets acting as vapour barriers. 

We've come a long way from what used to be insulation code in 1972, when this home was built.


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