# 2012 - Basement demo



## logluvr

Welcome to the forum!

So what are your plans for the cinder block wall?


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## Trucon01

Plans for the cement block are as follows:

1. Using straight beach and scrub the walls like crazy!!!!!
2. Use Safe Muartic Acid and scrub the walls like crazy!!!!!
3. Use Hydrolic cement to patch any holes / cracks.
4. Use a Drylok Extreme (2 coats) to seal the block.
5. Use liquid nails and adhear Dow 2 inch XPS tongue and groove (taping the seams).

How does that sound so far??


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## gbwillner

Good thing you took down that vapor barrier. I assume you had a lot of mold back there.


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## gma2rjc

I'll be interested in how you do this. I'm going to be gutting half of my basement some time in the near future.


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## Trucon01

Yea, apparently those windows were leaking for years and years. We have a dehumidifier down there now, but I assumed there would be some mold. While we were taking down the paneling, we sprayed on a ton of Mold Control (cleans, disinfects and prevents). It will all be fixed soon enough...

Oh yea, those windows are coming out too. They are complete garbage and were put in wrong. I'm going to go with some nice privacy block and weather / water proof it as much as possible.


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## Trucon01

gma2rjc, let me know if you want to know anything or want other pictures. I'll be glad to provide you with whatever will help you.


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## Bluehawks

Trucon01 said:


> Plans for the cement block are as follows:
> 
> 1. Using straight beach and scrub the walls like crazy!!!!!
> 2. Use Safe Muartic Acid and scrub the walls like crazy!!!!!
> 3. Use Hydrolic cement to patch any holes / cracks.
> 4. Use a Drylok Extreme (2 coats) to seal the block.
> 5. Use liquid nails and adhear Dow 2 inch XPS tongue and groove (taping the seams).
> 
> How does that sound so far??


Sounds good to me.
I would like to suggest using a real respirator while putting on the drylock, if your not doen with that by now.


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## Trucon01

Couple more pictures... If anyone wants pictures of anything else, just ask and I'll get them ASAP.


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## picflight

We don't have basements here, its nice to see how some folks have this additional space.

How long did it take you to do the demo, how many people were involved?

Keep the pictures coming.


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## Trucon01

Just my Dad and I. It has taken the past 4 weekends to demo it out this far. Taking it all down is fine, but when you get rid of the drywall, 2x4's, insulation, its a real pain. You don't realize how much there is and how heavy it is in the garbage bags....


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## Trucon01

Here is a 360 of most of the basement demo showing ALL the garbage!!!


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## Trucon01

A few more


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## Plumber101

Looking good so far. 

Love the demo but I hate hauling out the debri

Are you adding bedrooms in this space and if so are you adding eggres windows. I would if I were you. It adds safety and also adds resale value when it comes time for you to sale.

Looking good keep up the good work


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## Trucon01

No bedrooms, just opening up the entire room. As for the windows, I am just replacing the existing windows with the square privacy block. I cant put in eggress windows because I had a stamped concrete patio poured in the summer, right up to the window wells.


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## Gary in WA

I'd get a permit to finish it, just for the paper trail for your H.O.Insurance carrier, in case of a future claim and at resale.
I wouldn't use bleach, rather the other mold product you said already (or laundry detergent and water). No dryloc on the walls, they should allow moisture to pass through; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems
Air seal the rim joists with foamboard: http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...joist/files/bscinfo_408_critical_seal_rev.pdf

Use foam-compatible adhesive in a small grid pattern: http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743
Where are you located?

Gary


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## Trucon01

Most of my stuff will have permits but not all. I live in Norther VA.


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## Gary in WA

You probably wouldn't be issued a permit without basement egress; door or an egress sized window......need that for your H.O. Insurance carrier and when you resell it.

Gary


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## Trucon01

Picture Update::


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## Trucon01

A few more


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## Trucon01

Are my sill plates bad enough to replace???


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## nathan.hawk

Looks like there is quite a lot of work to be done there. I'll be very interested in viewing the progress. My wife and I just moved into our first home in April 2011. The basement is finished, but I think there are certainly some changes we'd think about with the floor and possibly adding drywall. Can't wait to see updated pictures.
How large is the space?


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## Trucon01

Its around a 600-700 sq/ft basement. It has a full bathroom and laundry room in the front, which I haven't demo'ed yet, but will this week some time.

Any pictures you would like to see that I havn't posted yet?


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## Gary in WA

The paper facing on the batts should be toward the warmed side- facing up. You should have rigid board at the joists: http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...joist/files/bscinfo_408_critical_seal_rev.pdf as the rim joist expands/contracts with the seasons letting in/out air.

Gary


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## Trucon01

Another group of pictures. I am now moving out to the front side of the basement where the laundry room and full bath are... As always, let me know if you have any questions or want to see anything particular.

Jeff


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## Trucon01

Couple more from tonight.


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## Trucon01

2-15-2012 Pictures. 1 junction box and 1 new work box hidden behind drywall with no covers...


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## federer

cool stuff. we did a basement demo as well. so your reason was to install new insulation and look at the damage behind the window leak?


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## Trucon01

Well, mainly because it was so closed off with rooms framed in everywhere, plus there was this awful painted paneling on each wall that made me sick to look at. I'm glad I'm doing it though because there were 3 uncovered junction boxes that were all live just laying on the insulation on the drywall.


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## federer

Trucon01 said:


> Well, mainly because it was so closed off with rooms framed in everywhere, plus there was this awful painted paneling on each wall that made me sick to look at. I'm glad I'm doing it though because there were 3 uncovered junction boxes that were all live just laying on the insulation on the drywall.


 gotcha. great pics!


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## Trucon01

A few more pictures showing the front of the basement. Each of our well windows has not officially leaked. Can't wait to rip those out as well...


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## Trucon01

Can anyone tell me what type of rodent does this to wood? (last 2 pictures). When I took down the ceiling drywall, there was a ton of droppings, within that section of drywall, between the joists...


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## bkeech

No egress windows? Sounds like a death trap to me.


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## Trucon01

Yea, after reading in here, I would have loved to do that in the back of the house, but I had a stamped concrete patio poured in the entire yard, up to the foundation... The only other window is the very front of the house. Is it smart have an egress window in the front of the house?? If I can get some opinions, I may just do that instead...

Thanks for bringing that up!


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## bkeech

Trucon01 said:


> Yea, after reading in here, I would have loved to do that in the back of the house, but I had a stamped concrete patio poured in the entire yard, up to the foundation... The only other window is the very front of the house. Is it smart have an egress window in the front of the house?? If I can get some opinions, I may just do that instead...
> 
> Thanks for bringing that up!


I believe egress windows should be located in all bedrooms and living areas. Do you have a permit?


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## mikegp

Any progress?

It sounds like he's just making one large living space. Would he still need an egress window?


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## hyunelan2

mikegp said:


> It sounds like he's just making one large living space. Would he still need an egress window?


I always thought the rule of thumb was you needed "two ways out" of any living space?


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## Gary in WA

Basements require an egress window/door in addition to, the stairs up to the egress (usually front) door. If a bedroom is in the basement, that (bedroom) requires egress and will cancel the basement egress.

"*R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required.  *_
Basements, _habitable attics and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening. Where _basements _contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room. Where emergency escape and rescue openings are provided they shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches (1118 mm) measured from the finished floor to the bottom of the clear opening. Where a door opening having a threshold below the adjacent ground elevation serves as an emergency escape and rescue opening and is provided with a bulkhead enclosure, the bulkhead enclosure shall comply with Section R310.3. The net clear opening dimensions required by this section shall be obtained by the normal operation of the emergency escape and rescue opening from the inside. Emergency escape and rescue openings with a finished sill height below the adjacent ground elevation shall be provided with a window well in accordance with Section R310.2. Emergency escape and rescue openings shall open directly into a public way, or to a _yard _or court that opens to a public way." From: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2012/icod_irc_2012_3_sec010.htm

Minimum size egress window: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...r-YVo5&sig=AHIEtbRXqPqFUGZ6B_c_33otStRi7Aff7g

Better to get a permit for the paper trail for your H.O. Insurance carrier and not get hit when time to sell. May require removing all your basement work to close the sale and a possible fine. Saying nothing of a fireman with an oxygen tank on not able to rescue someone down there ....

Gary


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## Trucon01

So its been a while since I updated you with pictures. All I have done recently is try to tear down the bathroom which is the last standing room in the basement.

And what do I find? A bunch of mold growing on the concrete block in the corner... I have a waterproofing company coming Monday to give me a free foundation inspection, so we shall see...


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## Trucon01

Just a few more pictures of what I did last night until 8pm... I have since cleaned both the full front wall and full back wall with a straight bleach spray and scrubbed using a hard bristle brush. The mold on the walls are pretty much gone.

Also, I took up the tile in the bathroom. WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$!!! 

The last picture shows where I cut out the copper pipe from the shower and capped it with 2 shark bite ball valves. First time I ever used them and they are great! I have to admit, I was afraid to turn the water back on with them on, but they are holding...


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## Trucon01

A fridays night work in the basement...


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## Trucon01

I can't believe how much more garbage I'm taking out. My floor was clean and swept, now it looks like this again...

I also spray foamed the bottom of the sill plate at the front and back of the house.

Clean up starts tomorrow and I'll keep you posted.


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## Trucon01

Starting the rim joist insulation. Purchased a 2in x 4ft x 8 ft piece of XPS foamboard from Lowes for 30.00 and cutting to fit. Prior to inserting foam, all 4 sides of the rim joist were caulked. One day at a time....


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## mike2

Great pictures, looks like you're getting it cleaned up pretty well, I've got a similar project coming up on my part in the next 6 months or so, not looking forward to the clean up.


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## Trucon01

Quick question for the crowd... Whats the best way for me to break up the concrete where the bathroom was? Jackhammer or rotary hammer? I need to dig up the floor as well as knock down the lip that was created.

Thanks Mike. Yea, its a royal pain in the a$$. I've taken probably over 2-3 tons of garbage out of the basement (wood, drywall, etc) over the past few months. But I've learned so much doing it on my own, watching video tuts and listening to the guys on here. For the pros to take the time and give free advise means a lot to me and I know means a lot to everyone on here.

If you have any questions about my specific project or want pictures of anything else, please let me know.

PS -- All my photos were taken with my iPhone 4s.


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## shumakerscott

*What to use*



Trucon01 said:


> Quick question for the crowd... Whats the best way for me to break up the concrete where the bathroom was? Jackhammer or rotary hammer? I need to dig up the floor as well as knock down the lip that was created.
> 
> Thanks Mike. Yea, its a royal pain in the a$$. I've taken probably over 2-3 tons of garbage out of the basement (wood, drywall, etc) over the past few months. But I've learned so much doing it on my own, watching video tuts and listening to the guys on here. For the pros to take the time and give free advise means a lot to me and I know means a lot to everyone on here.
> 
> If you have any questions about my specific project or want pictures of anything else, please let me know
> 
> PS -- All my photos were taken with my iPhone 4s.


I would use a jack hammer. The extra weight will help break up the floor. dorf dude...


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## Trucon01

Thanks Dorf Dude... The reason I asked was because I was reading that a jack hammer can also cause cracks through out the floor, not just in the area you are working on and some of the guys preferred a rotary hammer with a chisel?


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## shumakerscott

Trucon01 said:


> Thanks Dorf Dude... The reason I asked was because I was reading that a jack hammer can also cause cracks through out the floor, not just in the area you are working on and some of the guys preferred a rotary hammer with a chisel?


You could cut a slit with a grinder but that would make a big mess inside the house. I would have considered my self lucky if the jack hammer created extra cracks! Less work to do. I think that would be a 1 in a million worse case and your floor would have to be pretty crappy for that to happen. Not an expert, I learn as I go. dorf dude...


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## Trucon01

So its raining, you know what that means for window wells...


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## Trucon01

And I also found the water seepage on the front side too...


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## Trucon01

Can anyone tell my why the rim joists are getting wet at the front of the house? This section is right under the concrete stoop for the front door...


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## Trucon01

Just an update on the water situation on the front wall...

Thanks to the guys on this forum, we found that the front door threshold was the culprit. I sealed it with some Quad poly caulk, plus I'm having a storm door installed. Hopefully that solves "this" issue...


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## shumakerscott

That leaking is terrible. What kind of flashing, if any, is there outside? Water is just running in everywhere. Whats the plans at the windows? dorf dude...


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## Trucon01

I plan on digging the window wells out and getting to the vertical drains, then back fill with some gravel. Right now, its just covered in mud.

Also, I'm in contact with a company who makes custom window well covers...

So trying from both angles on this one. Once I get these water issues out of the way, I can get back to more clean up and prep for waterproofing, insulating and framing 

Thanks for your interest, Scott. You have a fairly big project on your hands too.


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## Trucon01

Front water issue now solved... Installed an Anderson 3000 storm door with etched glass. Also added another thick layer of caulk around the threshold!

1 down, many to go!!

Thanks to all those who helped in other threads!

Jeff


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## Red Squirrel

Wow looks like you got a water leak issue to clean up!

I demolished my basement too when I bought my house because of similar issues. Funky smell lead to demolishing a small bathroom which lead to demolishing the whole thing. Weeping tile/ wall seal issues. Your issues seem easier to fix as they're above ground thankfully. 

I would wait before fixing the walls inside, give it a year or two if you can, as if there's any leak issue it will be easier to tell if the walls arn't fixed inside. Then fix them as needed when you redo the basement.


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## Trucon01

After digging as far as I could, here is a few pictures of the crack on the outside wall.

I plan on using some hydaulic cement and then going over that with some Blue Max liquid rubber...

Then call in the landscaping guys to regrade the whole yard and either plant sod or spray on some hydroseed.

PS - The water in the hole is from me power washing the wall to clean off all the dirt


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## Red Squirrel

That crack looks kind of scary... almost seems like there is an issue with the footing and it's settling. I would get an engineer to look at that. If you fill it, it may just come back. Hopefully I'm wrong though, that would not be a cheap project to fix.


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## Trucon01

I guess the only good news is that the crack isn't present on the inside wall... If water does go through the crack, does it soak into the wall behind it (concrete block) and the hydro static pressure builds, etc?


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## Trucon01

Picked up some Acid Magic from the local Ace Hardware and went over all my walls. It has a slight smell, but nothing over bearing.

Tomorrow, the Radon Seal is being delivered and I will start to apply the 3-4 coats recommended followed by the Drylok Extreme.

I also spray foamed the edges of the floor joists.


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## Trucon01

I received all my shipments...

Blue Max (1 gal) -- $54.99
Drylok Extreme (5 gal) -- $129.00
Radon Seal (5 gal) -- $193.00

Step 1:

Use Blue Max over top of the hydraulic cement!!


More pics coming as I start sealing the basement walls...


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## Red Squirrel

What do you plan to do for the rest of the foundation? I don't see any type of seal at all. Concrete is porous so moisture will still get in. Or is there some type of transparent seal I don't see?


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## Trucon01

Unfortunately, digging up the whole outside is out of the question. Just digging that whole was a pain in my a$$.

I plan on digging a trench and installing a drain tile system again the front wall footer, while drilling out weeping holes.

Not to mention 3-4 coats of Radon Seal, plus Drylok Extreme over top of that.

Now, with that said, I never knew if that crack I just patched caused an issue in the basement. Whenever it rained really hard, it never seeped or leaked anywhere in that area on the inside. The only place it leaked was under the front stoop, because of the door threshold, which is now fixed...


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## Red Squirrel

I got a quote to fix my basement (similar issues) and they'll dig it up, put rubberwall and new weeping tile. It's not cheap. 13k in my case. I had thought of doing it by hand but the thought was just insane. So I see where you're coming from.

I would not finish the basement till you eventually decide to do it though. The drylock on the inside is going to hold up for some point but eventually you'll have issues. If after a few years with big rainfalls you don't see any signs of moisture then you could go ahead with finishing the basement. Proper grading will help a lot too.


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## Trucon01

Oh yea, as soon as this Blue Max dries, I'm having my whole yard ripped up, re-graded and sodded.  I'm with ya


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## Trucon01

Starting the Radon Seal on the basement walls...


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## Trucon01

...and the train keeps on moving... Before I get my yard graded and re-sodded, they asked that I move the window well up 4-5 inches for a proper grade...

All that is missing is a toilet in my front yard


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## Trucon01

Now that the Radon Seal had time to setup and do its thing, it is now time for the Drylok Extreme. Wall pictures are of the second coat. First coat was with a specific waterproofing paint brush, the second coat was with a roller.

Also some close ups of what the block looks like (no pin holes!)

Enjoy!


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## Red Squirrel

Looks good!


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## Trucon01

Thanks Red. I just sprayed half of the front wall with 4 coats of Radon Seal. Just waiting the 10 days for it to completely set up and then I'll drylok the front.

If you look at my previous pictures of the front wall, I need to get that white paint off the blocks that was there when I pulled off the drywall. I tried a few things from HD but nothing is working... Any idea?


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## Red Squirrel

really not sure, short of something crazy like a sandblaster. It's hard getting stuff off that texture because of how pourous it is. I've been trying to get drywall dust out of my floor for years and that's not even paint.


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## callmevo4short

Try lightning strip! It comes in a spray bottle and works on concrete block foundations too, I used it on a portion of my basement and it comes off easily after letting it sit for a few hours....


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## Trucon01

Cool thanks. I'm looking at Knute's site now. Looks like you have to call to place an order. Are there any local shops that sell this stuff, in your searching?


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## callmevo4short

The only place I could find to order it from was the lightning strip website... It was quick and came in like 2-3 days!


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## Trucon01

Cool, thanks! I ordered it from their website as well and its on its way.

Now for a picture update. I had the HVAC guys in to move the duct work closer to the steel beam and change out some registers, new line set, etc. 

Total cost was $1,075.


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## Trucon01

Yard graded and re-sodded!!!  YAY!


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## Trucon01

The saga continues with my water issue...

This water is coming in from me watering the yard at 5:30 until 6:35am (on a timer).


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## Red Squirrel

Is the part where the leak starts above ground by chance? I have the same issue, I think it has to do with the brick vent holes. Water gets into that and it gets into the block. You're apparently not suppose to block those vents, but I've been contemplating it or at least add some kind of cover that wont let water in. While it's not often that rain hits at an angle enough to get into those vents, it can still happen.


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## Trucon01

Where the water starts on the wall is below ground, barely maybe less than a foot down. Remember, I dug down and patched that crack outside with cement and a rubber membrane. I'm assuming the water is getting in from the brick above ground where the sprinkler is hitting. I may have to look for more cracks...

We've had a few hard rains, prior to me watering the grass and water does not show up...


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## Red Squirrel

Yeah my guess is the water is coming up from higher up, and it just happens to only show up below ground. Is that wall the one you posted a pic of with the grass redone? I see a vent, wonder if it's getting in through there somehow.


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## Trucon01

Yes, it is the wall with the white vent. The vent was for a bathroom ceiling fan. That vent goes through the rim joist, which is 1 joist to the right of where the water is coming in (so its not directly above the water penetration).


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## Trucon01

Here is a picture of the inside wall where the water is coming in from the sprinkler...


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## Trucon01

I also broke out all the framing around the electrical panel.

Question for anyone. How much of a pain in the a$$ is it to move the panel to the wall on the left? I doubt the wires on the right side of the main line in are long enough to reach...


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## Trucon01

Digging up the basement floor to re-do the plumbing for the full bath, plus putting in a weeping tile system. Enjoy the pics.


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## Trucon01

More Pics


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## Trucon01

More Pics.


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## Trucon01

Does everything have to be a chore??? I'm 3 feet down under the slab and I'm still not to the footer... Does anyone know how far down a typical footer is?


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## rebelranger

Moving your Elect panel won't be cheap. You'll have to get the utility co to come move the main line, unless you have a outside shutoff. Then you'll have to rewire all your connections. Just think about it.

Why are you going so deep on your bath concrete. I only went 12" down to install new PVC for a shower, then gravel and concrete.


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## rebelranger

Oh AWESOME WORK! keep going


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## Trucon01

I wanted to put a weeping tile along the whole front side of the basement floor..


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## Trucon01

Unexpected project... Never knew the top floor bathroom fans were not vented to the outside. So.....


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## shadytrake

Looks like you have your hands full. Looking good.


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## techpappy

Run your sprinkler and go and look at the water lines in the basement. One of them may have a crack/split/leak that only shows up when running the outside tap. It happened to me once.


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## Red Squirrel

techpappy said:


> Run your sprinkler and go and look at the water lines in the basement. One of them may have a crack/split/leak that only shows up when running the outside tap. It happened to me once.


That's a good point. Happened to me this year but it was much worse. Water splashing a few feet away from my server rack was a little unnerving. :laughing:


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## Trucon01

Unfortunately, the water on the wall is on the complete opposite side of where the outside faucet is. The water lines in those pictures are for the bathroom right above.

After I moved the sprinkler, the water issue stopped. I then noticed vent holes in the brick in that location. Maybe I was getting water directly in the vent hole and down the foundation


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## Trucon01

I need opinions on something...

After I put in the weeping tile and I'm ready to re-concrete the floor, is it a good idea to place the 2in XPS foam board on the wall and slide it down, under where the slab WOULD be? Once the foam is in place, I would concrete around it so any water coming through the wall would filter down behind the board into the drain?

Yay or nay?


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## techpappy

If you still get water through the wall that means your drainage is inadequate and you may have to dig along the outside wall and put in proper weeping drainage system including waterproof membrane on exterior of the wall. But, what you are suggesting probably wouldn't hurt.

Suggest you google DIY network or Holmes on Holmes and try to find his program where he has addressed this type of issue. I'm not sure but I think he attached a dimpled membrane on the inside of the basement wall to help with this situation.


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## Trucon01

After a few hours of digging. We exposed the cast iron toilet and shower drain...


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## coop26

nice progress, can't wait to do this at my house


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## Trucon01

Help with proper interior drain tile.

From the image, is this the proper way of installing the drain tile system? Including adding weep holes above the pipe? If not, please let me know where they should go or if they should be there at all.

Also, if anything else is out of place, of course, please let me know.


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## Trucon01

I'm removing the back wall sump pit because it never did anything anyway. I will be filling it with dirt, rock and then cementing over it. However, right in that corner, it dips down (as seen in the pictures).

My question is, what is the best way to handle the dip? Do just cement the sump pit, wait for it to dry and then throw down some leveling cement?

OR

Do I just jackhammer up that small section and just cement everything all over, properly?

Thanks.


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## rebelranger

I'd cement it as best you can then use leveling compound.


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## techpappy

If you need it level I would fill with dirt etc, with well packed sand and smack down with sledge hammer until your arms wear out .must ...then use self leveling to finish off.. BUT I'm not a cement head!! lol...is that what they call you guys?


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## Trucon01

Thanks guys... If I do use the leveling cement, will it withstand nails being shot into it? I plan on framing over it...


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## rebelranger

Yes as long as it gets a good bond with the concrete below, IE make sure the surface is prepped before pouring the self leveler.


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## Trucon01

Some misc pictures of the patio that a few of you PM'd me about. Plus the first window well cover made of PVC discussed in here. 2nd one is drying now and will be out in a few days.


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## Trucon01

Also filled in the existing sump pit that we just talked about. Once this fully cures, I'll be using the leveling cement in that entire corner and bring it up about 1 inch...

As always, thanks for your guidance!

jeff


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## rebelranger

I hope you put some structure inside that hole. Meaning did you do some cross re-bar or mesh layers? Depending on the depth without some structure there is a possibility that the sides could separate from the original concrete, it's a small chance but it does exist.


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## Trucon01

I didn't put re-bar, but I used a bag of all purpose stone and bigger chunks of concrete that I broke up in the front of the house. This is only about 3-4 inches deep... Still not good?


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## rebelranger

oh yea I thought the hole was deeper. 3-4 inches isn't bad.


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## Pirulo

Hey, You sure are busy with these, it's very interesting. Myself I have done this kind of work (full basement remodel) only on my own houses, 6 to be exact, I can give you some advise if I see anything strange, but so far, for what I can see, you are doing great.
Question, are you still planning on replace/install bigger windows for escape situations?


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## Trucon01

Hi Pirulo!!

Thanks for looking and commenting. By all means, if you see anything or want to share information, I'd love to hear it. Also, if you want to see anything specific, please let me know and I can get pictures on here ASAP.

As for the egress window(s), unfortunately, I won't be doing this now. When I first bought the house, I had a full concrete patio poured up to the foundation in the back yard. If I had to do it over, I would have waited on that and made the 2 back basement windows into 1 big window for escape... I'll do that on my next remodels 

Thanks again 

Jeff


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## Pirulo

I think this is your only chance ever to install those windows, while they are easy to access and you don't have any stuff in the basement that you have to deal with or could get ruined because of the dust, like Elvis say, it's now or never. With a diamond blade you can cleanly cut the concrete patio without destroying everything. Think in added value to the house when you can legally claim you have 1 or 2 bedrooms extras (because with too small windows they don't qualify officially as bedrooms). If you plan to install some other windows, this is the moment, my 2 cents.


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## Trucon01

Tell me this, is it illegal to have an egress window facing the front? If not, I could possibly make the single window in the front of the basement an egress window...

My only issue with the back 2 windows is this. I can't cut just 1 of them larger, I would have to use both. Using both would make a huge opening and possibly make it look really bad... To the right of the right most window is the power, phone cable lines. To the left of the left most window is the AC unit.


----------



## Trucon01

So I was reading the code for Northern VA. Each 'bedroom' would need one of these windows. The front window is going to be in the laundry room, so even if I did put an egress window in, it wouldn't allow me to call it a 4 bedroom...

*EMERGENCY ESCAPE AND RESCUE REQUIRED VIRGINIA SECTION: R 310.1*

Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard, or court. Where basements contain one or more sleeping rooms, emergency egress and rescue openings shall be required in each sleeping room, but shall not be required in adjoining areas of the basement. Where emergency escape and rescue openings are provided they shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches (1118 mm) above the floor. Where a door opening having a threshold below the adjacent ground elevation serves as an emergency escape and rescue opening and is provided with a bulkhead enclosure, the bulkhead enclosure shall comply with Section R310.3. The net clear opening dimensions required by this section shall be obtained by the normal operation of the emergency escape and rescue opening from the inside. Emergency escape and rescue openings with a finished sill height below the adjacent ground elevation shall be provided with a window well in accordance with Section R310.2.


----------



## Pirulo

You don't need to make them wider, but taller, and the sill of the windows lower, around 42" from the finished floor, and enough space outside to maneuver and escape (check local codes). I agree you should work on both windows. I don't see why it would be illegal to have an egress windows in the front, but check local codes. But so far, you don't have a single egress window in the entire basement.


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## Pirulo

I'm looking at the pics of your windows from the outside, what is holding the dirt at the wells, I can't see.
BTW are you going to leave a sump pump installed somewhere? It's a good idea, even if never ever runs. And what about installing a sewer backup prevention valve (it cost about $30 for a 3" model)? Insurance companies love these things, it can lower your premiums, give you a lot of peace of mind, and at the point you are they are easy to install. These are the things I try to incorporate in every basement reno.


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## Trucon01

1.
Its hard to see because they poured the concrete up to the top of the metal window wells. I promise they are there...

2.
Yes, I filled in the pit in the back of the house but will be adding one to the front of the house where I'm currently digging everything up.

3.
Yes, I will def. be adding a backflow preventer while everything is exposed.

Thanks again for taking an interest in my project. Any more questions, just let me know.

Jeff


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## Trucon01

Starting to level the corner where the old sump pit was...


----------



## rebelranger

How did the SLC work for you? It looks very runny in the picture. Did you use a sealer before you put it down?


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## Trucon01

Yea, it was great. Mix 6.5 quarts of water per bag. It's supposed to be runny so the liquid can level out. I cleaned and vacuumed the area before I put down the primer. Let the primer dry and then poured the compound. Looks great!


----------



## Trucon01

Starting to dig up the last part of the floor and putting up the XPS foam...


----------



## Trucon01

More pics from today. After applying the PL300, we had 2x4's holding the foam tight to the wall.


----------



## mikegp

What are you working with, 7.5 foot ceiling?


----------



## Trucon01

Yea, something like that. give or take an inch or so in certain spots...


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## rebelranger

Crazy question, what are you using to break the concrete?


----------



## Trucon01

jack hammer rental from HD. It was a Makita


----------



## mikegp

Looks like there's a jack hammer in the pic behind the pile of concrete chunks.


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## Trucon01

Pictures of the tools I am using for framing. Different angles of the framing we've done so far. And a picture of the double bottom plate layers (Foam Seal, PT 2x4, 2x4).

I stopped because I would like to replace the windows before I frame close to them. Could I frame against them or am I doing the right thing by waiting?


----------



## Trucon01

Oooops. Didn't mean to get into this tonight, but as I was loosening the window to see if I could remove it easily, one side cracked and....


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## Trucon01

Replacing and framing the windows. Looks like I'll need custom windows WxH (33 7/8 x 22 1/4). This gives me a little play room inside the frame. Waiting to frame out the other back window so I can order both at the same time...


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## Trucon01

Now I'm scratching my head... I was assuming the cast iron pipe continued straight for another 6 feet or so and met up with the main. Unfortunately, it only took a few feet of digging to see that it 90s straight down?

Hope you can see by the pictures.

This house was built in 1974. Where would this pipe go??


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## Trucon01

Here are a few pics of the work I did last weekend.


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## Trucon01

Here is the work I just did today.


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## Trucon01

I wanted to make this opening bigger, so I put the studs closer to the metal support post. The issue is now the right side. Since there will be a wall coming right off that corner, will it look bad to leave it how I have it?

Or should I throw in another stud on the right, maybe 3-4 inches in? That way there will be a patch of drywall going up the right side of the wall.

Or can I move the 2x4 on the right flush with that bottom plate. This way the wall can continue to go back?


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## Trucon01

Framed in the other window... Now I need to figure out how I will be framing the box in...


----------



## Jess_718

*Demo*

Wow! 

Looks like a big project! I applaud you! What are you trying to do/ what is the goal of your project?


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## rebelranger

ummm, can you do a paint drawup of what you mean? I can't really visualize it. I would try to make just one wall instead of two as it looks in your pictures. Just put 2x6s on each side of the metal support pole and dry wall around that, then one 2x4 wall down it length wise...if that makes sense.


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## Trucon01

Jess_718 -- I'm just trying to finish my basement properly. I had painted paneling, no insulation and a poor vapor barrier.

rebelranger -- I think we are talking about the same thing. The 2x4 highlighted in red, moved to the right, where I have that red rectangle. This would make it flush with the baseplate I have the arrow pointing to.


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## Sadde10

Nice work man, I'm currently doing the same thing. Look forward to more pics. :thumbsup:


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## rebelranger

Yes we agree on that. However I am talking about the two walls with the dead space you are going to have. Unless you are doing that for sound reasons, I think you can get rid of one of the 2x4 walls you have that are on both sides of your metal beam


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## Trucon01

What you see in that picture will be a half wall with a window sized opening. I will put in a granite ledge, etc.

FYI, I posted in the Electric forum... May want to check out the pics.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/check-your-aluminum-connections-162274/


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## jagrrr

Trucon01 said:


> I've learned so much doing it on my own, watching video tuts and listening to the guys on here. For the pros to take the time and give free advise means a lot to me and I know means a lot to everyone on here.quote]
> 
> I agree wholeheartedly with this statement. I've been rewiring my entire 2 story farmhous, barns and detached garage. The home was originally built in 1921 with additions added in '53 and '61. The things I've uncovered are truly frightening but with help from this forum I've been getting it done. I also have each section of work checked by a retired master electrician neighbor who I do odd jobs for as repayment for his advice and expertise.


----------



## Trucon01

Another weekend in the basement with my dad. We finished framing the entire room. We came off the wall below the beam about 12" so I could round the corners of opening and have a semi arch way / eyelid.


----------



## rebelranger

Making progress. What are your plans for the floor? Are you going to seal it then carpet? Do you have utility room? Are you going to try and sound deaden that room? How about your basement ceiling, going drywall or drop ceiling? What are you going to do for Heating/Cooling/Humidity?

I've already started my basement but I got side tracked to renovate the kitchen. So the basement has been in the back of my mind for quite some time.


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## Trucon01

rebelranger said:


> Making progress. What are your plans for the floor? Are you going to seal it then carpet? Do you have utility room? Are you going to try and sound deaden that room? How about your basement ceiling, going drywall or drop ceiling? What are you going to do for Heating/Cooling/Humidity?


Now that the water issues have been resolved, I was thinking about going with carpet. I wasn't aware I needed to seal the floor before carpet. What should I seal it with?

Sound deaden, probably not. There won't be much going on, just a TV, couches, etc.

Ceiling will be drywall with 6 pot lights. I'm working with 7.5 ft so dropping it any lower won't be good.

Yes, I have a utility room. That will be framed with 2 doors.

As far as heating/cooling/humidity. I had a whole new line set run, all new lines run in the basement for AC and heat and sealed all HVAC runs / vent with mastic and alum tape.

Humidity gets to be around 50%. I'll also have a dehumidifier running when this is all finished.


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## rebelranger

Great response. Please keep in mind I'm not a professional and I'm cheap so what I do may not be the best for YOU.
- I am sealing my concrete for with Radon Seal. It stops any moisture that may pop up and prevents any ground radon. I think plan to use the cheapest dark color free floating floor with a vapor/quiet floor underlay. Carpet just holds to must moisture and promotes mold for me, although it is the best for sound deadening.

- Sound deadening I am going to Roxul and denim insulation. Denim on the ceiling directly under the floor then roxul over that. It is going to cost a little more, but to help stop noise traveling up and down it will be worth it to me. In particular my utility room ceiling will get foam insulation, then denim, then roxul. The walls will get just roxul, then drywall green glue then another sheet of drywall. I don't want any furnace or water heater gases to escape into the basement or rooms above and surely don't want to hear the washer/dryer in the basement or rooms above while watching TV. 

- Ceiling I really REALLY want drywall but because of water lines, gas lines, HVAC, and electrical I can't risk haven't to pull drywall and replacing if I want to make a change or improvement. Thus I'm going with a drop ceiling and attaching it to the floor joists overhead. They make special drop ceiling systems just for this but my buddy and I used the normal Lowes stuff and did the exact same thing. The bad part is you have very little room to get the tiles into their correct space so it is time consuming but do able. Furthermore, you don't have to mud and tape it so the time saved there really offsets the time spent to install. 
- Lights I'll use pot lights too.

- Utility room using 2 doors is a great idea. Just make sure to seal it up, use weatherstripping on the door cast/jams and a floor sweep against the floor. If you want to go further they have kits that completely seal all the corners = excessive unless noise and gases are a major issue.

- HVAC - for heat I'm using mad heat pads that install under carpet/hardwood floor. Then will make a slave zoned HVAC system. Thus only when another zone calls will the basement get AC or furnace supplied cooling/heating. For Humidity I'm going to run a small de-humidifier ducted into the basement HVAC ducts, thus only the basement gets the supplemental de-humidifier system.

Maybe I gave you some cheap, decent ideas. Everything I buy is from HD/Lowes/Menards/Craigslist unless I found a super deal online (as with the floor heating kits I got 100sqft ones for $70 a piece whereas in store they are around $140.)


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## Trucon01

Thanks for taking the time to write all of that.

I used RadonSeal on all of my walls and then used Drylok Extreme about 10 days later (thats why my walls are white). I def. noticed a drop in moisture when using both of these products. The dehumidifier was taking a lot longer to fill up then it did before.

I'm not worried about the ceiling being drywall. I'm making all the improvements before I do it. New HVAC runs, new line set, I will be re-doing all copper water lines with PEX, running and stapling all new elec lines, etc.

Now for a question...

Does anyone have any pointers how to build rounded corners for the entry ways? I've seen pre-made, half circle pieces of wood you nail in place, but is there a better way or is this the easiest?


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## Trucon01

Windows that were ordered came in. Special thanks to *Windows on Washington* (Eric) for ordering these windows!! If anyone is in the DC metro area, I highly recommend him and his team!

Now comes the part I don't understand...

How is the best way to finish this off on the inside? I have a 1x4 PVC board frame that each window sits in. In the 4th picture down, you notice I am measuring from the bottom of the frame to the top of the bottom vinyl face (3/4 in frame -- 2 1/4 bottom window face == totaling about 3 in)

My question is how do I fir out the opening so I can either put in drywall or painted plywood? How high up on the window facing can/should I go?

Kinda lost at this point...


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## rebelranger

Not to question your judgment but I'm at a loss for why you framed around your windows the way you did. Concerning finishing around the windows here is what I'm doing. See the vinyl trim around the window itself, drywall/trim to that point, then use chalk to seal between the drywall/trim. I hope that makes sense. Essentially the drywall/trim will touch the vinyl window frame, but not interfere with its operation. I'm going to use wood trim so I don't have to deal with as many drywall corners, especially in areas that are going to promote people to put stuff in them. I'm going to use 1x6 pieces that touch the vinyl frame and will cut flush to drywall, then will use trim pieces to cover the meeting of wood and drywall. Like this for the 1x6s http://www.luxuryhousingtrends.com/window-trim.jpg
Like this overall http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_-pdobPNNKKQ/S7lp-cnvqMI/AAAAAAAAAZ8/A2JiU3nEnto/s1600/LR+window.JPG
However I may try this http://www.howtospecialist.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/How-to-tile-around-window9065.jpg


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## Trucon01

I'm interested to know why you're at a loss for the framing? This is my first framing project but watched a lot of videos, especially the basement finishing guy on YouTube. He framed his window the same way, so I copied him. No other reason.


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## rebelranger

Trucon I don't mean it in a bad way. Its just that the framing doesn't support the window so you didn't have to box them as much as you did. The framing looks great and will work great, I would of just stayed with 16 on center with the frame around the window. Please keep posting! Your progress is amazing! I can't want to see the finished project, especially the bathroom, you've already put so much work into it.


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## Trucon01

Of course. I have 2 big projects coming up. Electrical panel being swapped with a new Square D QO setup and a new sliding glass door.

During the hurricane, the constant driving rain made apparent that it was installed improperly. It leaked under the door, rotted the sub floor and leaked into the basement rim joists.

I went down stairs one night to find a puddle of water in the corner where I just insulated and framed!!:furious: So I called up Windows on Washington, talked to Eric about the door issue and now his guys will be installing a new door, re-do sub-floor, etc

Thanks for keeping up with the forum! When I first started, I never thought it would get as big as it has. I'm just grateful for all the help and new friends I've made on here!

We are coming up on the 1 year anniversary of this post...


----------



## benleef

Hi, I've been following your posts for a bit and am going to use some of insights when I finish my basement. 

currently, my basement just has 2x3 framing, no insulation and paneling. I want to tear it all down and do proper insulation. I don't have many funds right now, but was thinking I could work on it little by little. Do you think it would be a bad idea to begin insulating and framing in piecemeal? 

I'm currently working on some rewiring of the rest of the house and am taking the opportunity to try and get all of the wiring along one wall so that I can eventually install access panels for access for repairs, etc.

Keep up the posts, I've learn a lot! Thanks


----------



## Trucon01

Thanks benleef, I really appreciate it!!

As for your question, I would think its fine to insulate and frame as time and money permit. My only advise is to do things in the right order and don't cheap out on necessities.

Make sure you watch lots of videos and read a lot of posts on here and don't be afraid to ask for help. If you have any specific questions for me, what I used, why I chose it, specific pictures of a certain area (close ups), etc. Just PM me!

Thanks for following!

Jeff


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## Trucon01

Here a few more pictures of the framing. The full bulk head has been built around the first steel beam.

I came off the wall about 12 inches because I plan to round the edges of the opening and make an archway.


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## Trucon01

I need some suggestions... I'm not def. sold on having drywall returns, I'm just using drywall for the pictures.

1.
What is the best way to shim out the opening so I can have the finish flush with the window frame (as seen in picture 2). Should I just use some PT 2x4 or even smaller?

2.
What type of drywall trim should I use between the window frame and the end of the drywall? I've seen on other forums that people like Vinyl L channels as well as No-Coat L channels?

Thanks.


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## rebelranger

Just do exactly what you are now but use the PT.


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## Trucon01

Thanks to the guys in the Electrical forum, I started wiring the back section of the basement with 12-2 and 20 amp recepts.

I also finished my basement window returns. I'll have pictures of those tomorrow!


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## Trucon01

First coat of mud on the returns...


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## rebelranger

Looking good! Things look like they are starting to move along nicely. When do you plan to rock the rest of the walls?


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## Trucon01

I still have to frame the middle and front of the basement... This week and weekend I'll be working on digging the rest of the trench for the french drain. Hopefully by this weekend, I'll lay the pipe and get it covered with stone...


----------



## Trucon01

New Square D QO box and breakers installed!! I also replaced the Service Entrance cable as well as added 2 ground rods (#6 bare copper).


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## rebelranger

Keep it up!


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## Trucon01

6 recessed lights along with dimmer switch installed and working. I had to take off 1 side of fins on the dimmer switch, so now I'm only at 500w on the dimmer.


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## rebelranger

Ok I've never done pot lights before sheetrock. What way are you going to get the sheetrock flush with the lights?


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## Trucon01

This was just testing them out. I will be removing the trim and bulb before I put on the drywall.


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## benleef

Did you use LED trims? I want to use new construction cans with LED trims but everything I see online seem to be the retrofit kind.


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## Trucon01

No, I used a regular trim. I got 6 for 53.00 at HD.


----------



## Trucon01

New sliding glass door installed.

Before:


----------



## Trucon01

After:


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## Trucon01

Here is a shot at my current electrical panel configuration. Things will change, but after I routed everything, I noticed a few over loaded circuits. Can anyone guess which they are????

In any case, I'm going to try to run 12-2 wire down along the main vent into the basement and get 2 more dedicated lines to the attic to feed to the top floor.


----------



## Trucon01

While I was outside pounding in the ground rods from my electrical box install, I noticed my windows need re-caulked. Probably get to it in the next few days. Here are some before pictures.


----------



## Trucon01

Here are the ground rods so far... Never knew it would be this hard. I'm going to try to pound them in as much as I can and then possibly cut off what I can't get into the ground... Any suggestions on how to make it easier? I'm using a sledgehammer now.


----------



## Trucon01

More pictures of the stamped patio, by request from some readers.


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## federer

the patio looks really great. good stuff

whats the ground rod for?


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## Trucon01

On the previous page, you can see that I had my old 200A GE panel / breakers replaced by all new Square D QO stuff. Since this has a permit, I needed 2 ground rods. I only had the cold water bond.


----------



## ItsaDucati2012

*Concrete*

Hey dO you have a contact number or email I have a question for the basement

thanks


----------



## Trucon01

PM me. I'll respond ASAP.


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## ItsaDucati2012

sorry man it wont let me there is no PM tab


----------



## Trucon01

Sick of carrying a light into the attic with me so I put a light, a switch and an outlet.


----------



## Trucon01

After about 2 hours, cutting holes in the drywall, I finally got 2 12-2 cables from the basement, up 2 floors and into the attic!!! Pictures are in order from basement, floor 1, floor 2 then attic.


----------



## Trucon01

Also removed the case iron pipe and picked up all new PVC, which I will get to tomorrow.

I used a Ryobi grinder ($39.97) from HD to get through the cast iron pipe. All tool rental places close around noon here on Saturdays!!!


----------



## federer

good stuff!
how did you connect the wire to the panel?

edit; are you on 200amps?


----------



## Trucon01

I didn't connect the wires to the panel yet. It was getting late last night and my goal was just to get 2 12-2 wires into the attic. I'll probably get the wires to the bathrooms and hooked up in the panel on Monday. Today I'll be installing the french drain and dry fitting the 4" PVC for the toilet and shower.

Yes, I am on 200 amps and just had my panel replaced with all Square D QO equipment.


----------



## Trucon01

Got rid of the 15a GFCI in one bathroom and replaced it with a dedicated 20A GFCI on 12-2.

HD closed at 7 tonight and I need a few grommets to put the wire in the electrical panel...


----------



## Trucon01

Started to lay the french drain...


----------



## laflsyl10

I just spent the last hour reading all your 13 pages worth, very informative. Keep up the great work and keep us informed.
Last year i bought my first dwelling, small 750 sq feet condo and started doing some small renovations, nothing quite like this!!.
Thumbs up!


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## Trucon01

Thanks a lot for reading!!

Good luck with your work and let me know if you have any questions or want pictures of anything I'm working on or have worked on.

Jeff


----------



## Trucon01

I finished installing the 20A circuit to the last bathroom last night. I had to cut a bigger hole because this box was fed from the bottom (there is an outlet on the other side of the wall in the master bedroom). I removed the old box and put in a New Work box. I'll get some drywall on it tonight and put on a tape coat of mud.


----------



## Trucon01

Just a few before an after pics of the holes I patched. Also, an updated panel legend that shows the 2 new 20A bathroom recepts.

Let me know if anyone wants the template.


----------



## Adrenalinejunky

Your fuse panel overlay is impressive! You put that together yourself? :thumbsup:


----------



## Trucon01

Thanks!

No, I saw a template online and then customized it for myself. 
Brown = Basement
Blue = Middle floor
Orange = Top floor.

I plan on eventually keeping this place as a rental and wanted to do everything properly and organized.

PS -- Had my electrical box inspected. Everything passed!!


----------



## Trucon01

During the day, we got up the XPS foam on the front wall.


----------



## Trucon01

Toward the end of the day, we started to concrete over the french drain and around the sump pit. Used around 17 60# bags of sakrete high strength, all mixed by hand.


----------



## Adrenalinejunky

Trucon01 said:


> During the day, we got up the XPS foam on the front wall.


Looks like you used some type of adhesive with the XPS foam? Any reason you didn't go with screws and plates? (I'm slowly adding foam board to my basement, but I've been using screws and plates..)
Keep up the good work! :thumbup:


----------



## Trucon01

Yea, I used PL-300 Foamboard adhesive. I didn't want to put any screws through the concrete block walls, I was more comfortable with the dabs of PL-300. It worked really well for the back wall.


----------



## Trucon01

Concrete over the french drain...


----------



## Trucon01

More pics


----------



## GinaMarie

That looks like roaches to me.


----------



## GinaMarie

I love the outside of your house with the arched windows. It looks like a little Brooklyn Brownstone!


----------



## Trucon01

I'M BACK!!! After a bathroom re-do and work, I'm not back in the basement and re-energized. Enjoy 

Some concrete and some wire organizing...


----------



## Trucon01

Here is most of the middle room being framed and wired.


----------



## Trucon01

Now for the full basement plumbing...

Most supplies are from PexSupply (AquaPex with expansion fittings / tool)

Water pressure = 92PSI!!! So I picked up a PRV.


----------



## Trucon01

Prepping the tank and sillcocks. Thanks to TheEPlumber in the Plumbing section.


----------



## Trucon01

Working on more framing...


----------



## Trucon01

Ran all new 10-3 wire for the water heater and dryer and 12-2 for the washer. Also put up the washing machine box.

Washer and Dryer outlets are stacked because I will be getting a new washer and dry and stacking them to make more room in the laundry.

Plywood will be where I mount the 5g expansion tank as well as my hot / cold manifolds.


----------



## Trucon01

What a day... We successfully installed the water heater and all new AquaPex in the basement to the entire house. Pressure valve and Expansion tank also installed. Water pressure is now down from 92 to 70.

Using the expansion tool was extremely easy. The tool is expensive but well worth a buy, use and sell on ebay.


----------



## Trucon01

The first 2 pictures are of a duct box I had to re-build to get ac/heat to an upstairs half bath.

The rest of the pictures are more framing. Pic 3-4 are of a closet. One side for the general basement the other side will be for the laundry room.

Pic 5 will be of a small build in nook. Around 20x48.

Lastly, we took all the copper pipes, 50g hot water tank and a old laly column to the scrap yard. Got $205 for everything...


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good hommie.


----------



## Trucon01

Framed the door, the rest of the bulkhead and the remainder of the short wall.

I also built a cabinet for my in wall shelf. This is made of 1/2 Sandeply. Now the question is, do I just prime and paint white or stain.... If I stain I'd use the dark red with a poly over it, but I'm leaning toward painting for simplicity for the rest of the room...


----------



## Windows on Wash

Stain looks good on the right. 

It will have a nice custom look to it then.


----------



## Trucon01

Thanks Eric. Even if I plan on having white baseboard and using white trim for the cabinet? That would still look ok?


----------



## Windows on Wash

Stain the trim.


----------



## Trucon01

If I go ahead and stain it and don't like how it looks. Can I got over it with some Zinsser BIN and then over top of that with any type of paint?


----------



## Windows on Wash

Jess...!!!


----------



## Trucon01

I ended up going with paint just to keep the look the same throughout the house. I used Zinsser BIN (2 coats). Goes on very runny but dries within 15 min or so. There were a few knots in the wood and on the second coat they were completely gone. Great stuff.

I also started framing the wall for the laundry.


----------



## Windows on Wash




----------



## Trucon01

Cleaned up a bit and put 2 lights in the laundry and a low profile LED light in each closet!


----------



## Trucon01

Got the outline of the laundry room and started to box out the small HVAC duct work.


----------



## Trucon01

2 Coats of BIN primer, 2 coats of an acrylic white paint, 3 coats of Verathane Poly (Gloss)


----------



## Trucon01

Plumbing finished. Thanks to the guys in the Plumbing section!


----------



## Trucon01

Pipes fully tested, zero leaks. Covering the pipes with dirt and stone and will concrete today!!


----------



## 123pugsy

Nice. Closing in the mess will give you a great feeling of progress.


----------



## Trucon01

Indeed it does!!!!

20 bags of 60# sacrete.


----------



## 123pugsy

Sweet.


----------



## Trucon01

Changed out the 3" abs with 3" pvc. 2 furncos and a 2 way cleanout.


----------



## Trucon01

Updated electrical panel...


----------



## Trucon01

Dont forget to change out your filters!


----------



## Trucon01

Starting to lay out the bathroom to see how it may look... Thinking about going with a curbless linear drain for the shower. Thoughts on that?

Also, any tricks for putting a door on an angle?


----------



## Trucon01

Have the layout all done. Just need to throw in some studs!


----------



## shavlor

Hello Jeff,

Thanks for making this thread. It is very useful and glad to see that you are making process.

If you have time I have a quick question for you.
How did you remove the old cement archors from the previous framing?

Thanks,
Derek


----------



## Trucon01

shavlor said:


> Hello Jeff,
> 
> Thanks for making this thread. It is very useful and glad to see that you are making process.
> 
> If you have time I have a quick question for you.
> How did you remove the old cement archors from the previous framing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Derek


Hi Derek!

Are you referring to the shanks they used to secure the firring strips to the block wall? If so, I use a long crowbar.


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## Trucon01

Finished more framing and added a few more lights.


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## mikegp

Did you tear down that ceiling just to put in the light?


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## Trucon01

No, all of this drywall is coming down anyway, I'm in the middle of wiring up a 3-way and this light will be part of it. So I had to knock down this ceiling and the wall to the right (which you can kind of see) for the new switch.

The original lights were contractor grade and powered by a set of outlets from the middle floor (different circuit). So I'm changing all that now.


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## Trucon01

More pictures.

1-2. Storage room with 2 5" lights
3. 20A dedicated GFCI TR oulet and location of sink and toilet.
4. Shower base (not done yet, started to add in 2x10 backers for pan).
5. Side shower wall, where a shower niche will be added in the middle (not yet framed).


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## Trucon01

Special thanks to Hammerlane for helping me with the 3-way switch!

1. 1-3 of 4 lights on 3-way switch (top and bottom of stairs)
2. Looking down from a few steps up.
3. Last of the 4 lights on the 3 way.
4. Switch at the top of the stairs leading to the basement.

All drywall will be coming down in the stairwell, leaving it up until I get all the drywall in so I don't chip the edges.


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## Trucon01

Slc in bathroom floor. Shower niche framed with bottom pitched in. 2x10 backer for pan. 130 cfm fan. Framed out hvac box. 

Enjoy!


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## Trucon01

New toy


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## Windows on Wash

Looking good.

That toy will pay for itself 1000X over by saving you back problems and visits to the doctor.


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## mikegp

Plus you can probably sell it when you're done for the same amount you paid for it. 

That was my plan, but now I think I'm going to keep it. You never know when you might have to tear down a ceiling.


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## Trucon01

Ill def be keeping it. It folds up quite nicely! My dad is happy, thats for sure


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## shavlor

Trucon01 said:


> Hi Derek!
> 
> Are you referring to the shanks they used to secure the firring strips to the block wall? If so, I use a long crowbar.


Thanks Jeff,

Yes those, and were there any cements nails or archors holding the bottom plates to the cement floor? It is hard to tell from the first couple of pictures but it looks like there were bottom plates

Thanks,
Derek


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## Trucon01

shavlor said:


> Thanks Jeff,
> 
> Yes those, and were there any cements nails or archors holding the bottom plates to the cement floor? It is hard to tell from the first couple of pictures but it looks like there were bottom plates
> 
> Thanks,
> Derek


They didn't have any bottom plates. All there was were firring strips nailed to the wall with paneling staples to it. The bottom was then covered with a baseboard.

Since there were no bottom plates, all the electrical outlets were recessed into the block wall...


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## shavlor

Trucon01 said:


> They didn't have any bottom plates. All there was were firring strips nailed to the wall with paneling staples to it. The bottom was then covered with a baseboard.
> 
> Since there were no bottom plates, all the electrical outlets were recessed into the block wall...


Interesting, unfortunately my basement had/has bottom plates that need replacing, both nails and bolts. I am using crow bar to break them since they are not coming up all the way, probably will have to grind them down then cover with finishing cement.

Nice lift, I got one before I knew that would need to reframe... now it is waiting in its box


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## Trucon01

Drywall starting...


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## nvycrmn

Trucon, looks amazing man. Nice progress. I just went through every page and I like it. I had to redo about half of my basement when we first bought it and am in the works of starting to finish the rest (wish I just would have done what you did but didn't have the time...needed half of it finished right away for the new daycare). I just have a couple of questions...

1. Why did you decide not to put foamboard on every outside wall?
2. Is there a reason you put your bathroom at the bottom of the stairs instead of across the room? This would have opened up the bottom of the stairs a little.
3. I noticed a few pages back, your pic of your new panel. I know you said your panel passed inspection but are you allowed to frame in around your panel? 
4. Somebody had mentioned about putting weatherstripping around the doors to your utility closet so I am assuming that your HVAC and everything are electrical?

Just some thoughts I had while looking through. Either way, doing a great job! I look forward to the finished project...


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## mikegp

I'm guessing that block wall is a separating wall from the neighbor's basement.

As far as weather stripping around the mech room door, my heat and furnace have intakes that go to the outside.


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## nvycrmn

that makes sense about the block wall...forgot how close the neighbors were! 

As for the door, my furnace and water heater are both gas. While they are vented through the roof, I was told that I need to make sure that both have enough air to "breathe" because of the combustion...


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## mikegp

nvycrmn said:


> that makes sense about the block wall...forgot how close the neighbors were!
> 
> As for the door, my furnace and water heater are both gas. While they are vented through the roof, I was told that I need to make sure that both have enough air to "breathe" because of the combustion...


Mine are gas as well, but they have an exhaust and an intake that go through the top of the foundation to get outside air. Some units just pull air from the room so people put louvered doors or leave a gap somewhere. I'd just be afraid of co poisoning in that situation if anything ever goes wrong.


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## Trucon01

nvycrmn said:


> Trucon, looks amazing man. Nice progress. I just went through every page and I like it. I had to redo about half of my basement when we first bought it and am in the works of starting to finish the rest (wish I just would have done what you did but didn't have the time...needed half of it finished right away for the new daycare). I just have a couple of questions...
> 
> 1. Why did you decide not to put foamboard on every outside wall?
> 2. Is there a reason you put your bathroom at the bottom of the stairs instead of across the room? This would have opened up the bottom of the stairs a little.
> 3. I noticed a few pages back, your pic of your new panel. I know you said your panel passed inspection but are you allowed to frame in around your panel?
> 4. Somebody had mentioned about putting weatherstripping around the doors to your utility closet so I am assuming that your HVAC and everything are electrical?
> 
> Just some thoughts I had while looking through. Either way, doing a great job! I look forward to the finished project...


Thank you and thanks for taking the time to read!

To answer your questions:
1. I have an inside townshouse so those walls are shared with neighbors.
2. There was already a bathroom down there in that location. So there was a cast iron pipe under the slab as well as an exhaust vent already drilled into the brick. So I kept the location and replaced the cast iron with PVC, etc.
3. Not sure, and I haven't decided if I'm framing to the outside of the box or making a larger door so you can get to the grommets.
4. Yes, everything is electric.

Thanks again and feel free to ask any other questions.

Jeff


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## Trucon01

Ceiling is up in the back part of the basement. Replaced both front and back faucets. And... Build the shower pan. Not hard to do, but a pain in the a$$.


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## Trucon01

Hit yourself with a hammer... Check
Cut yourself with a box cutter... Check


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## mikegp

Did you by chance have a small break on the top of the drywall so pulled out some compound to fix it a little and then used left over to cover some screw holes? I only ask because I did that exact same thing when I first started my drywall.


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## Trucon01

No break. Just larger than 1/8 gap. And yes, used the rest for screws.


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## mikegp

Ahh, close enough. Carry on. :thumbup:


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## Trucon01

More drywall complete and second coat of redguard on the shower pan.


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## Trucon01

Filled in divot and created the curb.


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## Trucon01

Wrapping fiberglass mesh all around the sides and corners of the pan.


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## Trucon01

More drywall up.


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## Trucon01

Ran pex to shower. No leaks.


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## Trucon01

Slowly but surely the drywall is getting done.


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## Trucon01

Lots done today!!!


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## Trucon01

Laundry room almost done.


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## Windows on Wash

Looking good boss.

I would like to see rigid pipe there if I can though. That flex clogs up really quick.


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## Trucon01

It will be. I broke the rigid pipe that was there and bought a kit with a 90 bend fir the dryer and this came with it. Plus i had to do laundry last night .


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## Windows on Wash

Recycle reuse on the undies is a no-no!!


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## Trucon01

Bathroom water lines done.


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## Trucon01

Bathroom drywall finished!


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## Trucon01

A light sand and time to prime.


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## Pirulo

That's going really good, good job! One question, I see the water for the sink, you had pex pipe and changed to the supported 1/2"copper pipe, any reason not to go all the way with pex? Probably you know about that already, but don't forget to install water shutoff under the sink and for the toilet too.


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## Trucon01

Thanks! I just like the look of copper vs the colored pex coming through the wall. One i have the walls primed and painted. Ill put on the valves.


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## Trucon01

Zinsser 123 used to prime drywall.


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## Trucon01

Sw duration on the ceiling and BM bath and spa on the walls.


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## Trucon01

Ditra installed. Off to get tile.


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## Trucon01

God bless tile guys...


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## Trucon01

Toilet and sink in!


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## Windows on Wash

Looks awesome man.

Obviously they were space limitations down there in the basement and that layout and fixtures look like they work great and actually make the bathroom feel pretty good-sized.


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## Trucon01

Accys installed.


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