# OTR Microwave help no stud!



## amber777

We wanted to replace the hood fan with an OTR microwave but after searching with a stud finder there are no usable studs. Is it still possible and safe to install with no studs and only wing nuts.


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## Bob Mariani

no. Remove the drywall behind the MW and install blocking between two studs. Now you can mount into these studs


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## sv9779

Check the installation instructions. It may use wall anchors as an option. Some of them can be rated for a lot of weight. The oven is probably no more that 60 or 70 pounds. Nothing for 4 big wall anchors.


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## sv9779

Just had a thought. The oven is 24 to 30 inches wide. How is it possible there are no studs in that span??? Take a dry wall screw and do some probeing. Maybe your just not reading them.


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## amber777

It comes with wall anchors but recomended not installing if there is no stud my husband was thinking of using the anchors and a couple or 3 L shaped shelf brackets in the lower horizontal sud for additional support what do you think?


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## amber777

We thought maybe we werenot reading them but only found one horizontal stud well below oven intall.


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## skymaster

Amber, has to be something there PLUS you can install that MW by attaching to the cabinet above it. ALSO look inside the cabinet and see where the screws are that will tell you where the studs are


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## amber777

I know, hard to believe but there really is nothing there and I can see the screws in the cupboard above but if you follow the line down there is nothing there. The only stud we found is just above the back of the range and horizontal.


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## Bob Mariani

skymaster said:


> Amber, has to be something there PLUS you can install that MW by attaching to the cabinet above it. ALSO look inside the cabinet and see where the screws are that will tell you where the studs are


the upper cabinet can not be used to support a MW. These bolts are for stabilizing the tilt only. The back brackets must be securely fastened, not into drywall. Seems like a lot of help here from those that do not do this work. At least I hope they don't.:no:


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## amber777

Bob Mariani said:


> the upper cabinet can not be used to support a MW. These bolts are for stabilizing the tilt only. The back brackets must be securely fastened, not into drywall. Seems like a lot of help here from those that do not do this work. At least I hope they don't.:no:


As no studs are there could we help support the mw by using L shaped shelf brackets fastened to the lower horizontal stud under the bottom?


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## Chemist1961

Amber,
Bob is correct, if you don't secure this properly you could end up replacing the stove and OTR if it drops loose and you'll be fixing a lot more drywall as well... 
Your stove is wide enough that it would sit in the gap from a previous archway....was there a reno done by a prior owner?
Is it possible you are dealing with a wall that has been used to close in an old opening for a window or doorway or, archway or this could even a be a double wall ? 

If you are covering the wall anyway, carefully cut out the drywall above the lowest level of the new OTR and figure out what you're dealing with. If you don't want to open the whole thing even if you cut a small opening you can fish a mirror in and have a look. Then figure out the larger cutout required either for an inspection panel or to replace the drywall.


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## SDC

Just another thought...
Make sure after you are removing the existing hood, that you have enough height from the microwave to the stove top. I have seen people put them too close. Your micro instruction should give you a minimum height required to the bottom of the OTR to the stove. Also in your explanation of the missing studs, would moving it up help find it? :thumbup: 
Is this a possibility...


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## skymaster

Amber: Remove the cabinet that is there, open the wall, keep the bottom seam above the bottom of the MW, frame what you need, re-rock. This is the fastest and easiest way to deal with this particular problem. 
Once wall is open you will see where the studs are inside the wall on either side, you may have to build out from them untill you can get into the cavity for the MW. USE screws!!!!!!! way less damage to surrounding walls when attaching to the studs inside the walls.
Bob: Yes you can use upper to support mw. I would say tho it is NOT a DIY job, but to give a blanket statement , you may wanna hold back a bit.


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## Bob Mariani

skymaster said:


> Amber: Remove the cabinet that is there, open the wall, keep the bottom seam above the bottom of the MW, frame what you need, re-rock. This is the fastest and easiest way to deal with this particular problem.
> Once wall is open you will see where the studs are inside the wall on either side, you may have to build out from them untill you can get into the cavity for the MW. USE screws!!!!!!! way less damage to surrounding walls when attaching to the studs inside the walls.
> Bob: Yes you can use upper to support mw. I would say tho it is NOT a DIY job, but to give a blanket statement , you may wanna hold back a bit.


I guess that would depend on the quality of the base of the upper cabinet. And many are poorly made. And units I have seen specifically state that this is not to be installed that way.


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## jcalvin

How old is your house? Is there a possibility that there it solid blocking behind the mw. Somethime a studfinder will act strange when there is solid blocking behind it. The reason I ask if it is an old house is that there may be beadboard, tongue and groove, or some other wallcovering behind the drywall that is causing the studfinder to act up.


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## amber777

The house was built in about 1978


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## amber777

The house was built in about 1978 and is a duplex. The wall in question is the fire wall. I think I may have found a product that will do the trick though, it is called retrostud. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYOPD--KGOc I will use 2 of the kits that are shown in this video instead of one though as the mw sticks out from the wall more the a flat screen tv.


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## jcalvin

I would start with cutting some drywall behind where the mw is going to mount and see what is back there. You can use the mounting bracket supplied with the mw to get an idea of what you can cut and still be covered. Make sure to save whatever you cut out so you can reapply it later. Go ahead and mud it back it and sand it. Don't worry about what it will look like, you will never see it again.


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## Wildie

My house (built in 1948) has plaster walls and these electronic stud finders do not work at all! 

If your walls are other than drywall, try other methods!

Looking to see how the cabinets above are fastened is a good idea! 

Knocking on the wall, listening to the sound is another good indicator. 

Drilling a series of 3/16" holes jn a horizontal line across the whole span would be another option. After anchorage is found, fill the holes with drywall compound!


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## skymaster

Amber I think we have BINGO!!!!!! Firewall? usually that means a block wall with furring attached, most often HORIZONTALLY!!!!!!!!!!!! If you were to poke thru that wall most likely you will hit solid block about 1 1/4" back from the rock face. 
You MAY have another issue not addressed yet!!!! Since this is a FIREWALL you may have to get permits, and a specific installation schedule from the building dept. They may allow you to glue and screw a backer of 3/4" to the block but I would NOT do anything until you speak to them. You are messin with fire codes now and they get very cranky with them.:whistling2:


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