# T111 horizontal joints



## jonnysteals (Jan 31, 2018)

I am building a 12x16 shed. I am on a budget but I am going with the smartSide T111 panel. Metal and vinyl siding were simply too much additional money. 


My issue is my shed will have a 7/12 pitch with 8 foot walls making it 11.5 feet tall(138 inches) at the peak. The issue is on the horizontal joints I dont want to use the zbar flashing because simply I dont like the look of it. I was planning on 45 both panels so the top panel sits over the bottom panel and caulking the joint. I do not want to put a piece of 1x4 covering the seam because that just is asking for water damage. 



Do you think cutting at a 45 is not the optimum solution and I should get the zbar flashing? Any suggestion/tip are appreciated.


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## jonnysteals (Jan 31, 2018)

Here is a pic of the zbar flashing. I am new here and cant post links to it yet.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

I would go with the z-bar. Its certainly an industry standard and as such the look should be considered "normal" 
On the other hand your 45 idea is OK I suppose. I'm just used to the look of z bar and I have no cosmetic issue with it.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

I guess I don't see why it wouldn't work to 45 the bottom piece. I think you ought to prime/seal the cut edge. It's also going to be a challenge getting getting a good fit on those pieces but of course doable. Personally I think once the z flashing was up, it would soon disappear, but that's just my opinion. Good Luck.


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## jonnysteals (Jan 31, 2018)

craig11152 said:


> I would go with the z-bar. Its certainly an industry standard and as such the look should be considered "normal"
> On the other hand your 45 idea is OK I suppose. I'm just used to the look of z bar and I have no cosmetic issue with it.


The zbar certainly would be faster as well. I have a track saw and could rip the 45 rather easily but the z bar would make my life alot easier. If I use the zbar would your still caulk the bottom of the flashing to the lower piece or no caulking?


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

jonnysteals said:


> If I use the zbar would your still caulk the bottom of the flashing to the lower piece or no caulking?


I would skip the caulk there. My concern would be the piece coming down on to the z-bar from above. That is the one where moisture could be an issue. For sure need to seal any cuts. Also caulk there... although I have seen that caulk skipped as long as the edge of the plywood is sealed and you leave a little gap up from the z-bar so moisture doesn't wick.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Z bar is the norm although some will fur out the gable [thickness of the T-111] and have it overlap an inch or so. I wouldn't trust a 45 to adequately shed water on plywood.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Z flashing and cut the bottom of the sheet on an angle so the water doesn't run back into the plywood.


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## jonnysteals (Jan 31, 2018)

craig11152 said:


> I would skip the caulk there. My concern would be the piece coming down on to the z-bar from above. That is the one where moisture could be an issue. For sure need to seal any cuts. Also caulk there... although I have seen that caulk skipped as long as the edge of the plywood is sealed and you leave a little gap up from the z-bar so moisture doesn't wick.


Ok I will skip the caulk. The stuff I am buying is treated and they recommend caulking each vertical seem. It comes prepainted tan as well. 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SmartSide-...5VPRW4UJTq-zjWeVECva9C7as_oTi_1RoCWcAQAvD_BwE



mark sr said:


> Z bar is the norm although some will fur out the gable [thickness of the T-111] and have it overlap an inch or so. I wouldn't trust a 45 to adequately shed water on plywood.


I saw pictures of that. Not a fan, would rather have the z flashing. I wish plywood was cheaper because I would just use vinyl or metal siding. I can get metal siding for .79 cents a square foot. But by the time you add up the osb sheathing, tar paper, and trim its about 1.25 a sqft. Vinyl siding is about the same price. The smartPanel siding is .625 a sqft for price reference point.


Also side note. would you recommend 3/4 OSB ($25) or 3/4 pressure treated plywood ($35 non tongue and grove)for flooring. The cost difference is $10 a sheet. I am putting the shed on 2x6 pressure treated joist on 4x4 PT runners on concrete blocks. The floor should be 9-12 inches off the but if the PT is the better choice I rather spend the additional money now then worry about it 5 years from now. Every shed I went to look at had OSB flooring but I understand they are built to be profitable and to a price point.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I rarely pay the extra for PT plywood. As long as you have air circulation under the joists it shouldn't be a problem.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)




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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

jonnysteals said:


> Also side note. would you recommend 3/4 OSB ($25) or 3/4 pressure treated plywood ($35 non tongue and grove)for flooring. The cost difference is $10 a sheet. I am putting the shed on 2x6 pressure treated joist on 4x4 PT runners on concrete blocks. The floor should be 9-12 inches off the but if the PT is the better choice I rather spend the additional money now then worry about it 5 years from now. Every shed I went to look at had OSB flooring but I understand they are built to be profitable and to a price point.


They weren't using regular OSB. They likely used a tongue and groove subfloor product like Advantech or a similar brand, this stuff is very durable and designed specifically for subfloors. It's a resin impregnated, stranded panel product that looks similar to osb but can stand up to moisture. It's also a lot stiffer than plywood or osb panels. Regular OSB does not hold up well on the floor, it will tear up, peel and soak water up like a sponge.

Advantech can take months of full exposure during lengthy construction projects without swelling or damage. Probably around $30-35 a sheet.


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## jonnysteals (Jan 31, 2018)

iamrfixit said:


> They weren't using regular OSB. They likely used a tongue and groove subfloor product like Advantech or a similar brand, this stuff is very durable and designed specifically for subfloors. It's a resin impregnated, stranded panel product that looks similar to osb but can stand up to moisture. It's also a lot stiffer than plywood or osb panels. Regular OSB does not hold up well on the floor, it will tear up, peel and soak water up like a sponge.
> 
> Advantech can take months of full exposure during lengthy construction projects without swelling or damage. Probably around $30-35 a sheet.


I am familiar with advantech subfloor. I helped frame my father in laws house and we used it. It had advnatech logos all over the floor where the demo sheds I looked at had no logos on it. It is possible that I missed the logos however. I still remember how heavy those sheet were lol. Funny you mention advantech because I never thought to use it for a shed. Might be the best solution as it is tongue and grove and will last a long time. Thanks for recommendation.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jonnysteals said:


> I am familiar with advantech subfloor. I helped frame my father in laws house and we used it. It had advnatech logos all over the floor where the demo sheds I looked at had no logos on it. It is possible that I missed the logos however. I still remember how heavy those sheet were lol. Funny you mention advantech because I never thought to use it for a shed. Might be the best solution as it is tongue and grove and will last a long time. Thanks for recommendation.


With Adventech you also get a full 48", plywood T&G looses for the T&G


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

When you go to install the upper portion of T111 over the Z flashing you might want to " space " it up off the flashing by 1/2 " or so . That way the wood is not in direct contact with the horizontal portion of the Z . If you paint/seal that bottom portion of the T111 and space it there really should be minimal exposure to moisture .


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## jonnysteals (Jan 31, 2018)

Porsche986S said:


> When you go to install the upper portion of T111 over the Z flashing you might want to " space " it up off the flashing by 1/2 " or so . That way the wood is not in direct contact with the horizontal portion of the Z . If you paint/seal that bottom portion of the T111 and space it there really should be minimal exposure to moisture .


The material I am getting comes pre primed so I am hoping the primer will seal the edges enough until I can put final paint on it.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

I recently re-sided my shed with 5/8 textured plywood paneling. All edges stained before installation. Because of poor initial construction by the previous owner, I put a rim of 2x8 PT around the bottom capped with drip flashing then the siding in order to keep the siding off grade. I used paint stir sticks to give me a gap between the siding and flashing during installation.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

jonnysteals said:


> The material I am getting comes pre primed so I am hoping the primer will seal the edges enough until I can put final paint on it.


I don't have a lot of confidence in the pre primed primer [say that 10 times real fast] I'd try not to wait more than 30 days before you get paint on it.


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