# 5/4 x 6 or 2 x 6 PT Decking, what would you choose?



## Quicksmoke (Aug 23, 2011)

*Deck design review and feedback, thoughts suggestions??*

delete.


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## Quicksmoke (Aug 23, 2011)

*Deck design review and feedback, thoughts suggestions??*

Attaching a bunch of CAD drawings and a couple pics of the back of my house for review and suggestions from some experienced deck builders. The deck I'm building is on the back of the house next to my driveway to the garage. The driveway has a 45* arc to it on one side of which the deck will follow. I'm undecided if I'm going to try and build a curved deck to follow this shape, or keep it semi easy and angle it with one or two angles. If I angle it, how I put a railing system up will be a secondary challenge.

The back of my house also is encompassed by a road which is about 40' away, so there is no privacy what so ever. I have to constantly close my blinds when I'm in the kitchen so people aren't staring in all the time when walking by. Some details:

Location: Central NJ
Wood: PT 2 x 6 planks, 2x8 joists and beams
Footings: 24" x 36" w/ adj post mounts, and 3 piers with direct beam contact due to low clearance with joists dropped.

Oddities to point out: Deck is detached, and will be a few inches away from the siding where I'll put a trim board for future access if and when needed. Portion of deck will top a single large landing area for a sliding door, of which the joists will need to be notched and blocked to fit level accross. Joists and planking need to land below brick work that overhangs the landing area, just below the sliding door sill. Simply put, I want to be able to step down slightly onto the deck vs making it dead level where people may forget there is a door sill there and trip. Landing area is 7" above grade, and distance to below brick work I think is around 4-5". The grade out to the driveway only drops 0.5".

For now I'm building two levels, the first coming out from the sliding door. The jacuzzi area will be next years project, and my initial thought was to build the deck up and around the jacuzzi as a 3rd level, but after recent learnings, the latest NEC code does not allow a portable jacuzzi to be recessed without bonding and grounding (I think I have that right, can't remember...). Plus, need access to all 4 sides and close to impossible with the space I have to work with, esp having the joists and beams located to hold the load of people sitting around it.

I had to make haste in pouring the footings, as I already had a truck at the house when I was pouring concrete for a large walkway I laid down. So this is set in stone, literally! and can't be changed, at least not easily lol!

If I were to put a curve on the deck, it would be at a 45* angle, with a radius of approx 3'. Is there any easy way, or at least a way for an average craftsman to bend a 2x10 PT board around the curve? Is there an alternative material to look at possible that could work well in this scenario and blend well with PT?

Thanks for everyones time and help in advance! Sorry for the long post...


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I got too tired trying to decipher what you are asking. Can you please edit and only post relevant info about this project? I mean, what do you really want to accomplish here? Any questions on this, you really need to talk to your local Code authority or AHJ to get a permit. They are the only ones that can tell you their restrictions in building your deck, etc.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Are you asking, or telling people what grade of wood you want to use. This and the other topic you started, needs to be combined, and as stated in the other topic, you need to talk to your local code authority or AHJ regarding this project.


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## Quicksmoke (Aug 23, 2011)

nevermind.

Post's should be seperate, not sure why they were combined? Looking for feedback on deck design, suggestions, etc.

? on 5/4 vs 2" is supposed to be seperate.


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## havalife (Mar 23, 2011)

Why would you leave the landing and cut the joists??


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## Quicksmoke (Aug 23, 2011)

havalife said:


> Why would you leave the landing and cut the joists??


To me it feels it's just easier taking this route. Could break it up, but I'm afraid of what hidding issues I'd find, or issues I'd cause breaking it up. House was originally built in 1800's, but has been rebuilt a few times from previous owners burning it to the ground.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Quicksmoke said:


> Curious as to what the majority would use, cost not being a factor between the two choices, and why.
> 
> 5/4 is cheaper, and you can get a select/premium #1 grade whereas I only see #2 grade available for 2 x 6 PT which some boards look good, but a lot are also on the lower level of #2 grade with the knots in them.
> 
> ...


You don't need to be an experienced builder for this decision. This is a personal preference choice.
As you already stated, the 5/4" material is a higher grade wood. It is a higher grade wood because it's used as a finished decking material.
The 2x6 material is used as structural framing members and need not be as pretty, and it isn't.
In a traditional 16" deck framing scenario, either material is structurally applicable.


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## II Weeks (Jan 6, 2009)

I just did a deck with 5/4 premium PT. All secured from the bottom. Not one screw from the top. Came out pretty good. Just waiting a few more weeks to dry out and will use some type of transparent stain.

Pix to follow.

5/4 with joists 16" O.C. like Ron said, is good enough and easier to work with. Also consider picture framing the deck so all the edges have a clean look. Little harder but worth it.


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