# How can I hang drywall level on my settled ceiling joists?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1 the ceiling drywall was suppost to go up first.
The wiring is all going to have to all be redone. It was suppost to be pulled though holes drilled through the floor joist at least 2" up from the bottom so the sheetrock could be attached.

Your stuck now with having to shim everything or just add a crown moulding to cover up the gap.


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

joecaption said:


> #1 the ceiling drywall was suppost to go up first.
> The wiring is all going to have to all be redone. It was suppost to be pulled though holes drilled through the floor joist at least 2" up from the bottom so the sheetrock could be attached.
> 
> Your stuck now with having to shim everything or just add a crown moulding to cover up the gap.


I feel like you are jumping the gun here... This drywall was put up by a contractor years ago, a drop ceiling was also put in. I am going to re-do the wiring and some of the HVAC work as I want to put up drywall and a coffered type ceiling. 

Back to the original question, how can I put in drywall so it is level, as I would like to install a coffered ceiling (That has crown molding)


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://cofferedceiling.net/

You also could have done it with the droped ceiling rails you already had up there. They sell recessed panels that just drop in place of the old flat ones you may have had.


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

joecaption said:


> http://cofferedceiling.net/
> 
> You also could have done it with the droped ceiling rails you already had up there. They sell recessed panels that just drop in place of the old flat ones you may have had.


Renovating for an office, and to learn carpentry. I want to do something that will require time and skill, that will look professional and genuine. Old drop ceiling got the job done in the fact that it was a ceiling, that's about it.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

If your ceiling is out that much, doesn't that also mean your floor above is out by the same amount? Now is the time to look at fixing both problems.... (if, indeed, two problems do exist).....before a new ceiling goes in.

And... did you determine your ceiling is actually out of level by USING a level?....... Or did you measure from the basement floor, upward?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

How old is that house? I'd guess over 50 years old?
The reason I'm asking is I can see they used diagnal 1 X 6's for the subfloors.
In most cases the floor joist in an older home like that are not all going to be the same width. One way to get around that is to screw up 2 X 4 scraps to the side of the floor joist in each corner of the room with a string attached scratched tight to check where the lowest joist is, (make sure to predrill the gauge block for clearance holes for the screws) Now you have a gauge to set sistered 2 X 4's to the joist on the two ends. (once agin it's good to predrill the 2 X's) Once the ends are screwed in place, move the string to the middle to check that there making contact all the way across the ceiling.

A concrete floor is almost never flat or level, old floor joist also are not level or even so this is one way to get around it.


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

Willie T said:


> If your ceiling is out that much, doesn't that also mean your floor above is out by the same amount? Now is the time to look at fixing both problems.... (if, indeed, two problems do exist).....before a new ceiling goes in.
> 
> And... did you determine your ceiling is actually out of level by USING a level?....... Or did you measure from the basement floor, upward?


I dont think the sagging joists are that big of a problem, do you? How would I fix this problem? There are renovated bathrooms, and bedrooms above the ceiling, I can't just do away with them to fix a 1.5" slope. What do you suggest?

I was looking at the wall after I pulled out the drop ceiling, and it looked sloped down to the left, I put a level on it, and it was level. My mind was blown. Then I put the level on the joists, they slope down to the right. The concrete floor isn't level, but I am going to fix that with some self leveling compound before I tile. 



> How old is that house? I'd guess over 50 years old?


 I don't know exactly, but it's pretty old. We have put several additions on it and really like it though 



> A concrete floor is almost never flat or level, old floor joist also are not level or even so this is one way to get around it.


Smart! I'll try this with some 80 lb mono tonight.


----------



## conspikuous (Feb 7, 2012)

They sell cardboard Drywall shims, essentially just strips of cardboard.

I would just staple up some strips on cardboard on the low points, check the level. Just make sure you use longer drywall screws where you add cardboard strips.

I just had to do this to my kitchen. Sure you could run all new backing but you would need to shim that up too to get it all level.

You could take a 2x4 per joist, make them level and screwed into the joists from the sides, go level from there but Im no code expert, more the get er done type.


----------



## JPL (Dec 12, 2010)

Buy some 12' 2x4's, or 2x6's and sister them level to the existing framing. Watch the crowns in the 2x's and be sure they all bend the same way... More work, yes, but worth it. You could also install the new level sisters joists crown-down and use a power planer to make it truly level. Don't use cardboard, 1-1/2" is too much for that. Good luck!


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Please do not use cardboard shims. A sure way to have the tape crack.
I've done this job many times in rehabing 100 plus year old houses so I know the way I suggested works.


----------



## conspikuous (Feb 7, 2012)

ahh I missed the 1.5, defo too much for cardboard shims, lol. Unless you just want to get a "Little closer" to level and not true.


----------



## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

in order to make your project level, first thing you must do is find level. you obviously can't measure off the floor or from your joists. you either need a laser? or a simple water level.( a clear hose open at both ends.) if you don't have one? they're very simple to make, for a 12 foot room, all you need is a coffee can, about 15 feet of clear hose, any size 1/4 ice maker hose is fine, drill a hole in can,insert hose and seal with caulking,set can on stepladder step, ad water keeping your finger over open end of hose, keep hose above the can on step at all times, until you carry hose to each corner, remove finger from end, the water will run level to all 4 corners. mark level points. use those points for all measuring for leveling ceiling. pulling strings tight should get you pretty level all around the room. 2x4's should be fine for what you're doing, a good pair of vice grip welders clamps will come in handy to hold the 2x4's where you need them to nail along your joists and allows you to raise or lower 2x4 to the point you need it to be.

it may be a bit time consuming? but you can work along at your speed alone. it will be worth it in the end to get a level ceiling to hang your drywall on. moving the strings every 3-4 feet will keep it straighter


----------



## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

Lavid2002 said:


> I am trying to put up a coffered ceiling in a basement room I am converting into an office, the ceiling deviates about an 1-1/2" ~ 2" from side to side, and it is only a 12' room. How can I lay my drywall so it is level?
> 
> A little snapshot of what I'm working with
> 
> ...


 yep thats a very good and logicial solution to your problem at hand ..go for it let us know how to make out....


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

ben's plumbing said:


> yep thats a very good and logicial solution to your problem at hand ..go for it let us know how to make out....


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Use brick string not monofliment.
Brick string will not strech.


----------



## masterofall (May 27, 2010)

Find a permiter level line. Cut long tapered full length shims and attach them to the bottom of the individual floor joists with floor glue and a mechanical fastener. Nails screws or staples depending on length needed. Drywall the ceiling.


----------



## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Could rewiring be avoided by using 1x furrowing perpindicular to the joists after they are leveled by one of the methods mentioned?

Btw, I like the long shims angle if possible.


----------



## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

yes iam serious that is a good idea makes sense go for it ....:thumbsup:


----------



## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

I just went through this. I attach strapping perpendicularly to the bottom of the joists and shimmed each one until it's true. Start at the lowest point and work out from there. Once you have three pieces of strapping in place, the rest fall into place easily.


----------



## anesthes (Jan 21, 2011)

Clutchcargo said:


> I just went through this. I attach strapping perpendicularly to the bottom of the joists and shimmed each one until it's true. Start at the lowest point and work out from there. Once you have three pieces of strapping in place, the rest fall into place easily.


This is the first thing that came to my mind as well. Strap it, shim it level and flat. 

It's easier to screw drywall on 1x3 furring strips than joist ends, especially if your spacing is a hair off. You have more edge to work with.


-- Joe


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

I finished the job almost! All that is left is crown molding and drywall in between the joists I laid up there. This is my first carpentry job ever aside from 3 amateur workbenches made from 4x4s and 2x4s. I am pretty stoked with the result. Here are a few pix
Thanks for the help everyone!!!

By the way, the joists just LOOKED uneven because the wall the contractor built behind it wasn't even! Lol! It was an optical illusion. The floor was also marginally uneven accounting for the elevation differences. 


















-Dave


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm confused, why was the sheetrock not put up first then the coffering installed over it?
Now there's going to be air gaps and one pain in the butt drywallljob.

When we do a job like this we install the drywall, finish it and prime and paint, then install ripped 2 X 6's that get screwed to the ceiling joist in the pattern needed, this gives you something to attach the boxing to from the sides. The wood used for the boxing gets finished before installing so your not dealing with getting anything on the new ceilings. 

Also why is there what looks like a piece of drip cap nailed to the beam?


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I'm confused, why was the sheetrock not put up first then the coffering installed over it?
> Now there's going to be air gaps and one pain in the butt drywallljob.
> 
> When we do a job like this we install the drywall, finish it and prime and paint, then install ripped 2 X 6's that get screwed to the ceiling joist in the pattern needed, this gives you something to attach the boxing to from the sides. The wood used for the boxing gets finished before installing so your not dealing with getting anything on the new ceilings.


ditto .......


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I'm confused, why was the sheetrock not put up first then the coffering installed over it?
> Now there's going to be air gaps and one pain in the butt drywallljob.
> 
> When we do a job like this we install the drywall, finish it and prime and paint, then install ripped 2 X 6's that get screwed to the ceiling joist in the pattern needed, this gives you something to attach the boxing to from the sides. The wood used for the boxing gets finished before installing so your not dealing with getting anything on the new ceilings.
> ...


The ceiling is very low and every inch counts, so I found a way to hand drywall without even needing to mmud anything except screw holes. I put 2x4s up and then boxed them out. Now I will simply cut drywall pieces to fit and screw them up to the joists. 

As for the gap in between the drywall and the boxes that will be hard to mud?.. No mudding needed, if I cut the drywall right I will have 3/4" of relief that they crown molding will cover up. So I will simply slap the drywall up then pop the crown molding up.

I am not very good at taping, so I found a way to make the ceiling a little higher, ad avoid taping the ceiling. I think it is a great idea 

Does that make sense?

I don't understand this. Can you please elaborate?


> Also why is there what looks like a piece of drip cap nailed to the beam?


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

my basement ceiling is 6'4". so i know what you mean about "every inch counts". but i think you made a lot of extra work for yourself, just to gain 1/2". 

but, good luck with your project. and report back with the results.


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> my basement ceiling is 6'4". so i know what you mean about "every inch counts". but i think you made a lot of extra work for yourself, just to gain 1/2".
> 
> but, good luck with your project. and report back with the results.


Really? I think I saved myself some time
-No spackling or taping
-No hunting for joists when I screwed in the 2x4s to the joists to hang the blocks for the coffered ceiling
-Now I can hand drywall easily by myself instead of working with two people to hand 4x8 sheets.

Are there any downsides I missed? The job seems pretty strait forward, the only downside being the degree of accuracy needed for my drywall cuts. 

-Dave


----------



## hboogz (Mar 21, 2012)

count me in for being interested in seeing pics of the finished project. looks good so far, but I'm far from the expert.

Harry.


----------



## Lavid2002 (Jan 16, 2012)

Alright  Here's an update so far! Drywall is hung, spackled, primed, and painted in between the beams. Thanks everyone! I am very near completion.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
-Dave


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Did you have this inspected yet, or get a permit to finish the basement? Just a few concerns I'm seeing from your pictures.....

Gary


----------

