# replacing valley rafter without roof tearoff



## RJM Build (Aug 21, 2012)

WOW that would be a sight to see. The valley rafter has sheeting, soffit, subfascia, fascia, all the surrounding rafters, possibly the gutter, and roofing nailed to it with it having a birdsmouth over the wall and an angle cut on the top, not to mention there is a lot going on there. I guess with time, money, and determination anything is possible but conventionally speaking, no it is not a reality to believe that you would cut a valley rafter out without removing the roofing and sheeting. as far as support, I have seen a valley rafter broken in two places and the sheeting supported it by torsion.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Going to have to post some picture for this one.
Why is the insuance company not taking care of this?


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## brickandmoss (Sep 3, 2012)

*insure would have been great*

House was not up to code yet and it was in detroit two things that make a house uninsure-able

I will post pictures...

I'm not longer concerned with doing something proper but need the house liveable so that I can secure it from future break ins, i'll live with the temporary occupancy permit until i get the funds to do a more professional job... i'm happy with any other bracing solutions that would work to.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Lots of folks having to make do with what they can afford to do----so let's see what you are up against----

The impossible jobs just take more thinking-----


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## gordieax (May 29, 2012)

*replacing valley rafter*

If replacing the damaged valley rafter from the inside/underside appears too complex /difficult, consider "sistering" onto the rafter, one on each side. It may give you the structural support you seek. Just something to consider.


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## RJM Build (Aug 21, 2012)

the problem with sistering is that to be effective, it heeds to extend 3' past both sides of the weak area, but there are roof rafters which terminate into it about every 14". I have seen (I dont recommend it b/c the ceiling system was not designed to pick up any additional load) but I have seen-NOT DONE BY MY HAND OR MY COMPANY (disclaimer) but have seen this scenario where a 2X10 was face nailed crossways, on the flat to the ceiling joists-covering about 6 ceiling joists, and then there was a upward brace (another 2X10 cut square on the bottom side and cut on an angle matching the valley board angle on the top) brought to the underside of the valley rafter-NOT NAILED TO THE SIDE OF THE VALLEY RAFTER (an architect will tell you that a nail will carry 200 something lbs before shearing but dont bet your life). The home depot sells simpson products which will enable you to properly (term used loosely) connect the system together (a t-brace and 2 angle braces with every hole filled with a fastener). This could, in theory be done a couple of times under the vlaaey rafter to support the valley in a couple of places.

This would NOT be the proper way to do it long term, if there was a heavy snow load, it could bear down upon the ceiling 2X6's, which may have too much span to effectively carry the load and have no bridging to keep them from folding over causing a catastrophic event (my disclaimer). 

The way I found this is I am a roofer and I had a customer come up with a strange nail pop pattern in their drywall ceiling after I did their roof. The supporting had been done previously and the vibrations caused by the roof removal and installation translated directly into the ceiling, shaking it. It did work for many years before we got there.


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## brickandmoss (Sep 3, 2012)

*nice*

Alright without the electricity on in the upstairs its a bit too dark for my phone camera to pick up much details of the problem... so i'm trying to grab a better digital camera from a friend.

However thank you RJM, i think thats the first affordable and realistic solution i've heard... its not fantastic but possibly will save me dumping this house.

Would it help if I tied in vertical supports at or near where the beam is burned in half... would that help, hurt, impact my floor...? I don't care if its ugly at this point as long as the house can be lived in and not dangerous and cold. 

Also the roof is fairly steep, steep enough not to need gutters.


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