# Pool screen enclosure



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That will not be fun---can you remove the old ones? Most times the screw must be cut off using whatever works--dremmel or sawsall--then new ones installed in a different location.
Pictures would help.---Mike--


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## Jessidog (Jun 21, 2011)

I have an aluminum and screen enclosure around my pool. After three hurricanes in two years, I did a lot of reading on why some enclosures failed and others stood up to the winds. Many of the enclosures that collapsed during the hurricanes may have done so only because the fasteners have rusted over time. As I started replacing the rusted screws, I found many screws with the shaft of the screw reduced to about half of its original diameter. I am systematically replacing them with stainless steel fasteners.

For the aluminum rail that attaches to the concrete, many of the small diameter fasteners were badly rusted or had broken off. Then I saw that these rails attached to the upright supports with small screws at the base. If the "cage" started to lift in a hurricane force wind, the whole structure is probably going to be a loss. I did the following: I bought aluminum angle that was about 2" wide. I cut pieces the width of the bottom rails. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the aluminum angle and the bottom rail. Then I used a 3/8" bit in a hammer drill to make a hole in the concrete. I then used a 3/8" sleeve anchor, which you tap into the hole and then secure with a nut. As you tighten, the sleeve expands to solidly anchor in the concrete since it is 4-5" deep in the concrete. Then I drilled through the angle brace and upright support and secured with a 1/4" stainless steel bolt. 

David


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## Andray Herron (Mar 19, 2012)

*pool enclosure fastener replacement*

We typically provide safety angles at each post made of min 1/8" aluminum fastened into the post with 4 #12 tek screws and one 3" tap con in addition to the standard fastening regime. 

When replacing these rusted out fasteners, we will angle the bit of the hammer drill very slightly to create a new hole in the concrete without making a new hole in the aluminum. Usually a longer (3") tapcon is advisable over the standard 2 1/4" ones.

Be careful of stainless steel, these fasteners tend to twist apart very easily. our new fasteners are all 100% coated to prevent the rusting from taking place for longer. 

You can get these fasteners from several companies.


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## illdoitmyself (Nov 22, 2013)

i found this web site when trying to find a way to stop my pool enclosure fasteners from rusting, and after watching the two minute video, i managed to replace my screws in the matter of a few hours. http://www.blue-tap.com/video-commercial-Pro-Tect.html 

they even have a 304 stainless steel that is stronger than carbon steel and wont twist apart like the common stainless. Check out their site or give them a call, very helpful and a local Florida company.


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## SHW3ESQ (Jun 2, 2021)

Jessidog said:


> I have an aluminum and screen enclosure around my pool. After three hurricanes in two years, I did a lot of reading on why some enclosures failed and others stood up to the winds. Many of the enclosures that collapsed during the hurricanes may have done so only because the fasteners have rusted over time. As I started replacing the rusted screws, I found many screws with the shaft of the screw reduced to about half of its original diameter. I am systematically replacing them with stainless steel fasteners.
> 
> For the aluminum rail that attaches to the concrete, many of the small diameter fasteners were badly rusted or had broken off. Then I saw that these rails attached to the upright supports with small screws at the base. If the "cage" started to lift in a hurricane force wind, the whole structure is probably going to be a loss. I did the following: I bought aluminum angle that was about 2" wide. I cut pieces the width of the bottom rails. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the aluminum angle and the bottom rail. Then I used a 3/8" bit in a hammer drill to make a hole in the concrete. I then used a 3/8" sleeve anchor, which you tap into the hole and then secure with a nut. As you tighten, the sleeve expands to solidly anchor in the concrete since it is 4-5" deep in the concrete. Then I drilled through the angle brace and upright support and secured with a 1/4" stainless steel bolt.
> 
> David


Do you have photos of your project that you can send?

Thanks!


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