# Flashing on Standing Seam Roof



## Audiofn (Oct 17, 2007)

This is another picture to show how the pitch break is.


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## Audiofn (Oct 17, 2007)

This is another view.


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

run the panels longer at the corner of the dormer,bend it up the wall like you would step,thenstart another panel slightly below the corners and make the opposite cuts,seal the corner w/bond or geocell 2300 before installing the lap piece


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

these panels should all be bent 2-3" up the walls wherever possible,at the front of the dormer,and the lap pieces that run up the sides should all be bent 2-3 " up on the walls--check outmy buddy`s site,you should be able to find suitable detail pictures there
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http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/photo_album_list.asp?u=30 
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## Audiofn (Oct 17, 2007)

the roofing god said:


> run the panels longer at the corner of the dormer,bend it up the wall like you would step,thenstart another panel slightly below the corners and make the opposite cuts,seal the corner w/bond or geocell 2300 before installing the lap piece


So you are saying that I should do the dormer first and run those panels long and then put the pitch break panels in up to the side of the dormer? Not sure if you can tell from the pictures but I have the Z clips all going on the same plane so that it looks like one continuous line. I thought it would look cleaner that way. I put foam under the pitch break panel in the second picture to sapport it so that it would not get dented if some one stepped on it and also to help with any oil canning. Should I make the Z clips lower on the window area so that the panels can run over one another? 

I plan to put the metal up the wall a couple inches and actually tuck it under the window molding. 

What I had thought would be best was to put the pitch break detail on in front of the dormer and run it a couple inches long. Then run the pitch break that is comeing down the roof up the wall. The J Channel would be under this detail. This is a JPG of the detail that the manufacturer has

This is the roof to wall transition up the side of the dormer http://www.pac-clad.com/drawings/PDF/snapclad/601K.pdf

This is the detail for the front of the dormer http://www.pac-clad.com/drawings/PDF/snapclad/121K.pdf

This is the pitch break http://www.pac-clad.com/drawings/PDF/snapclad/111K.pdf

I hope that this helps us out a bit. 

Jon


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

go to my buddy franks website,he is the man w/the metal,there should be enough photos to help you more


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

look thru his photo albums here as well http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/pho..._list.asp?u=30


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Never saw that pitch break detail before. You show a cut panel with a 3/4 inch bend. Why not box fold the panel end and be done with it? No sealant, No z-bar.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Dorma sides.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=717&file=5405&s=0


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## Audiofn (Oct 17, 2007)

the roofing god said:


> go to my buddy franks website,he is the man w/the metal,there should be enough photos to help you more


Do you have a link for Franks Site? I do not see one.

Thanks

Jon


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## Audiofn (Oct 17, 2007)

tinner666 said:


> Never saw that pitch break detail before. You show a cut panel with a 3/4 inch bend. Why not box fold the panel end and be done with it? No sealant, No z-bar.


When you say "box fold" do you mean lay the standing seams over? I can not do that with this style panel. I think that looks horrible to be honest.


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

they`re in my 2nd and 4th reply to you(the blue writing),my buddy frank is Tinner 666,I asked him to come here to help you out,best metal man I KNOW,if you box fold the top of the panel like he says the siding should come down to the top of the rib and cover anyway--look at the sites where you`ll see photos :wink:


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Here's an album showing several different steel roof details.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=598&file=4434&s=0

The last 2 pics were taken from the underside of the roof and show the boxed closure.

My site: http://www.albertsroofing.com/

My online albums: http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/photo_album_list.asp?u=30


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

More details on metal. Vented ridge, boxed top, wind baffles, etc,

http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=415&file=2912&s=0


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## Audiofn (Oct 17, 2007)

Ok guys I had seen those links for some odd reason I thought that there was another link. Maybe one of the issues that we are having is that I called it standing seam but it is more of a slap over panel. We do not run a seamer up the ribs, they just clip over. So unfortunatly some of those details are not going to work..... The Z-clips are there to keep the water from being forced up under the pitch break flashing. See the picture below for what they look like. They are a little bit of a pain to put in but once we get into a rythme with it, it seems to be going fast. If the pitch break was not at the bottom of the dormer then I know how I would flash this (and is confirmed by your pictures) It is the pitch break that is killing me so far. Maybe once I start to do it everything will all fall into place...?????


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

FWIW- The details are the same on each type of material. You're using a snap-lock and the only difference is that a part of the outer leg of the snap gets cut off. Just feel free to browse all the albums for anything that seem pertinent to your situation.


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## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

I like the manufacturers details you posted, I would stick with those. They are typical details we use in commercial work. BTW pick up a SMACNA Manual. They are worth there weight in gold if your doing that much metal roofing/metal work


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