# Garden Hose faucet leaking (replacing)



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

The faucet that attaches to the garden hose is leaking. Every time I go over there, hundreds of mosquitos attack me. 

When the faucet is off, I don't notice the leak, but it is probably leaking slowly since the mosquitos are present.

When I do have the hose on, a leak is near the handle. I think I just need to replace it, since its 15 years old. I don't know where to remove it at. There are several areas that have stucco all over it, so I have to chip away to see what is the best part is to remove. 

Also, there is some kind of relief valve on the hose, which squirts all over the place when I turn off the water. I think this is useless since there can't be that much pressure in the hose to cause a problem. Not sure it if has something that protects the hose/faucet during winter.

1) Where do I disconnect the faucet so I can replace it easily?
2) Do I need that relief value?

Thanks


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Here is the photo I was suppose to upload


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It's not a relief valve, it's a back flow preventor. It's there so water can only flow in one direction.
That's a really old valve and not freeze proof. It needs to be replaced.
Most often it's as simple as figuring out what lenght the stem is and what thread you have and replacing the whole thing. It's unscrewed from under the house.
The stems come at least 3, differant lenghts, and it could be 1/2 or 3/4" MPT or a soldered connection.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

joecaption said:


> It's not a relief valve, it's a back flow preventor. It's there so water can only flow in one direction.
> That's a really old valve and not freeze proof. It needs to be replaced.
> Most often it's as simple as figuring out what lenght the stem is and what thread you have and replacing the whole thing. It's unscrewed from under the house.
> The stems come at least 3, differant lenghts, and it could be 1/2 or 3/4" MPT or a soldered connection.


I found a diagram online that help me understand the connections. I can't tell if I need a faucet/bib/spigot with a Sillcock or not. 

For the length and size, I guess I need to take off the faucet and measure it.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That picture has nothing to do with what you have, plus it would be a sure way to have frozen pipes if your in a cold area to do it the way it's shown in the picture.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

joecaption said:


> It's not a relief valve, it's a back flow preventor. It's there so water can only flow in one direction.
> That's a really old valve and not freeze proof. It needs to be replaced.
> Most often it's as simple as figuring out what lenght the stem is and what thread you have and replacing the whole thing. It's unscrewed from under the house.
> The stems come at least 3, differant lenghts, and it could be 1/2 or 3/4" MPT or a soldered connection.


I can't get under my house since it has a concrete foundation. 

Is it best to turn off the main, unscrew the faucet (which is covered with stucco), and see what length the stem is?

Is this type the same as a Sillcock type of faucet, so it might be a foot or so in length?

To remove the faucet I will need to break up what looks like Stucco from around the faucet which I assumed was used to seal the faucet and stem from leaking.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Guessing you mean it's a slab foundation.
May be able to just disassemble what you have now and replace the washer and stem packing.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I took a few extra photos after taking off the insulation. It looks like there is a copper pipe that is connected to the faucet. I read that care should be taken to not ruin the copper pipe since it is very difficult to fix.

It looks like I can unscrew the faucet from the copper pipe and replace the faucet. Any idea if I need to buy a *sillcock?*

To remove the faucet I need to turn off the water supply to the house. It looks like valve 1 is the one I have to turn off. I read to be careful with this type of valve (the round turning type) and that I should consider having the city come off and turn off the main valve from the sidewalk. 

Is there any concern to turning off the water supply with this type of valve?


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Just turn off valve #1,then back off the valve up on top that's leaking,and be sure and get some teflon tape to reinstall the valve your replacing.


You should get a backflow preventer like the one that's on the valve,for your new valve also.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

And if it is 15 years old? You could just replace or repack the stem but I would get a new valve. That way you know the stem and its seat will match up. It is not going to cost you much more. Think about getting the new valve at a real hardware, building or plumbing supply store though. Some of the crappy brass ones sold at box stores do not hold up so well and have inferior valve packing, etc.

The backflow preventer is necessary by the way and is probably a code requirement. It is designed to keep any fertilizers, insectisides, etc. that might get trapped in the hose from hose end sprayers and sprinklers from backflowing into the home water supply.


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