# My DIY Basement Renovation Project



## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

FRAMING:
































































WIRING:

Won't bore you with the wiring pics...lol


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

UNFORESEEN RADON MITIGATION:

Not too happy with the work performed at the sump area, I since made that look much better.




























WALL INSULATION:


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

DOORS:



















DRYWALL:


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

AH....MUD TIME:





































And so, that's where I am at now. Have a little more drywall to put up along the steps, then a couple coats of mud and I should be ready to get some dust floating around.

Still much to do afterwards though...drop ceiling, flooring, stair banister, paint, trim, etc, etc. It's getting to where I want to be though!


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

Looking good so far. I am in the middle of my second complete basement remodel. The space gets a lot "smaller" when you put up the drywall, doesn't it?

B


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Looking Good.
A few tips for next time, or others reading.

Better if you can to use longer sheets of drywall and install it horizontally.
Better/easier to install doors after drywall.

The posts under the beams are wider then the beam, either run the drywall to the very top or put strips on the beams to make it as wide as the posts. Or perhaps your doing a post cap detail there?


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

mae-ling said:


> Looking Good.
> A few tips for next time, or others reading.
> 
> Better if you can to use longer sheets of drywall and install it horizontally.
> ...


Well, I pondered the horizontal vs vertical dilemma for awhile and figured I'd be mudding less seams with the vertical runs, hence the reason I went that way. But, to your point, if the sheets were longer, might be a 'wash' as to the amount of seams.

Curious to why it's better or easier to install the doors after the drywall?

As for the posts, I was thinking about doing a shelf with trim from post to post but now, after I had to do a 6" drop for my drop ceiling after the one post, I might not like that idea/look. Might extend to the ceiling now.

Thanks for your input!

EDIT: Here is the 6" drop now for the drop ceiling I will have to put in b/c of the water pipes.










6" Drop at the Steps coming down as well


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

You can run the drywall past the openings, score the back side and snap and cut,easy quick, no measuring and marking.

The top sheet can run right over the opening and be cut in place with a drywall saw, roto-zip, and or in combination with a knife.


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## cube17576 (Jun 5, 2012)

You should have used un-faced fiberglass. The XPS acts as a vapor barrier, and so does the kraft facing. You could have an issue of trapping moisture in the fiberglass.


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

mae-ling said:


> You can run the drywall past the openings, score the back side and snap and cut,easy quick, no measuring and marking.
> 
> The top sheet can run right over the opening and be cut in place with a drywall saw, roto-zip, and or in combination with a knife.



Ah yes, never thought about that...will remember that the next time!


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

cube17576 said:


> You should have used un-faced fiberglass. The XPS acts as a vapor barrier, and so does the kraft facing. You could have an issue of trapping moisture in the fiberglass.


Well, hopefully I avoided this issue by leaving the stud walls 1-1/2" off the XPS as I had read in another forum of people doing this. I did this not only for that purpose, but b/c I found out the corner of my block walls were not perfectly square to begin with, so had to come off the XPS to square the stud walls.


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

Update: 7/27/2012

Was able to hang some drywall on the stairway last night and get some mud on it. Need to go pickup a few more sheets of drywall and then I should be complete with hanging. Just need to get 1st and 2nd coats on the newly hung and then sand and touch up spots throughout.

Still a lot to do but I feel I'm making progress again on it!



















Sure did close the step area in when I hung that drywall!!! Kind of messed with my mind the first time walking up/down them afterwards.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

How tight is the area going down the stairs? I imagine when a railing goes in it might be very snug.. Just wanted to mention to keep in the back of your mind that you'll want to be able to get furniture up and down the stairs, especially if you don't have a walk out/up basement.


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

NewHomeDIYGuy said:


> How tight is the area going down the stairs? I imagine when a railing goes in it might be very snug.. Just wanted to mention to keep in the back of your mind that you'll want to be able to get furniture up and down the stairs, especially if you don't have a walk out/up basement.


The steps are, if I remember right, 36" wide and there was already drywall in the area down to the the basement ceiling height so width wise, should have no problem getting anything down it but I'm limited by the door to the basement, unfortunately, it's only 32" wide. I am worried a little on length, but I can get a 4x8 sheet of drywall down there so I think I should be okay with a love seat and recliners. I will put the handrails on after the furniture move for sure. Thanks.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

What made you double plate the top during framing?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Make the handrail removable to get furniture in and out later.


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

Trucon01 said:


> What made you double plate the top during framing?


Originally it was because I was going to lower the ceiling off the joists. See Pic #1 in the Framing post. But as I moved on with the build, I decided to not drop the ceiling and at that point I double top plated the majority of the walls so I continued on for the most part as I finished.

If I would of not had the double top plate, then I wouldn't of had a nailer board for the drywall hung on the walls at top.


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

mae-ling said:


> Make the handrail removable to get furniture in and out later.


That is my plan for sure. Might even consider no handrail/banister on the open side of the steps going down. Just the standard hand rail on the closed in side. Trim the open side out with oak or something...


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

Well...finally have all the mudding and sanding done! Yeah!
































































Next on my list to do...texture the ceiling. Want to match whats in the rest of the house. Here is a pic of the upstairs.










I am thinking it is Stomped Knockdown but yet in areas it almost looks like it was applied maybe with a roller and then knocked down. Never did it before so this will be interesting. Thinking I may try a roll on method and then go back over with a knock down knife. Anyone have suggestions?

After I get the ceiling textured, I can move forward with painting.

Major things left to do...

1. Ceiling Texture
2. Paint
3. Finish Step Kickboards and Trim
4. Carpet
5. Trim
6. Drop Ceiling
7. Hide the Sewer Clean Out
8. A/V Built In Shelf
9. ??????????????

Getting closer!!


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## NiNe O (Nov 24, 2012)

How do the electricians like the SE cable stapled to the bottom of the joists?


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

NiNe O said:


> How do the electricians like the SE cable stapled to the bottom of the joists?


Yep...thanks to the previous home owners. I removed them all before I framed the bulk head in. Glad I did, found two cables pierced by the staple nail. Unbelievable!

EDIT: Well, I should say it was not all previous owner...I did run a couple for temporary outlets in the basement and garage after I moved in and stapled them at the time.


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## JohnC20 (Oct 1, 2012)

Looks good! I plan on the same proj but my basement is "finished", if that's what you want to call it. The prev owner studded walls and threw up tongue and groove paneling w/ no insulation whatsoever. The electric is spliced everywhere and I think there's some asbestos pipe ins. Fun times!!!! Just can't throw paint on this and call it done. Gotta redo!


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## tls1 (Aug 8, 2012)

it's beautiful!

How many hours did you put in and how much have you spent ?

What will you put on the cement floor?

I noticed you put styrofoam on the walls and then more insulation between the framing. Simpylfor extra R value?

Happy Holidays!
Terry


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

UPDATE: 6/19/2013

Well, it's been awhile since I last posted. Since then, I have worked off and on with the basement. To date, finished the mudding/sanding, got 2 coats on walls and ceilings, installed sconce lights and recessed light trim, painted doors, purchased and painted baseboard, installed door trim, carpet installed, and finally, started to clean up some wires and installed the surround speakers last night.

Here are some pictures...

Final Mudding/Sanding Complete


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

Wall Painting







Doors and 2nd Coat on walls







Scone Lights


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

Carpet...

Prep...









Rolling Out and Cutting


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

Glued and rolling flat...









COMPLETE


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

I hooked up the surround sound last night to just listen to some music...sounds good. Ordered my 65" smart tv for the wall, will deliver Saturday, so I should be playing blu-ray by Sunday!

Left to do...
Baseboard Trim
Build A/V Equipment Shelves
Wall/Ceiling/Door Touchup
Drop Ceiling
Trim Stairs
.....I know I'm missing some stuff


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

tls1 said:


> it's beautiful!
> 
> How many hours did you put in and how much have you spent ?
> 
> ...


I don't even know the hours that I have put in on the project, all I know is it has been a LOT and it has been a 3 year project.

The styrofoam and insulation was for extra R value.


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## tls1 (Aug 8, 2012)

Did you put something on the cement before the carpet? 

I would think that it would be important to raise the floor a bit and insulate? 

Looks great! Wanna come do mine?


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## jmac30 (Jul 26, 2012)

tls1 said:


> Did you put something on the cement before the carpet?
> 
> I would think that it would be important to raise the floor a bit and insulate?
> 
> Looks great! Wanna come do mine?


Filled the cracks and then glued the carpet.

It was commercial grade carpet, so it was installed in that manner.

thought about dricor (sp) but decided against it. Didn't want padding, that would just be a sponge if it got wet. Did commercial carpet so that if it does get wet, is easier to get vacuumed up and dry quicker (short nap).

My basement building days are over after this one...lol...the rest will be hired out!


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