# Setting type compound for first coat



## yilmazma (Dec 13, 2012)

I have read in many forums that hot mud makes the joints stronger, so it is recommended as the first coat to embed drywall tape (all corners and joints). I want to try it. If you tried it before, can you please share your experience regarding this method?

And, if we are to use hot mud for tape, which tape is recommended? Paper, regular fiberglass, or the product called "fibafuse". Fibafuse has very good reviews, and I wonder how it performs with setting type compounds like easy sand 45.

Last question: How about skim coating with hot mud?


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

get the setting type 90. it becomes unworkable faster than what the bag says. ymmv.

use paper tape.

you don't want to be top coating with this stuff. while it is sandable, it is far harder to sand than the green or blue lid stuff.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

We do a lot of drywall.Always use 90 minute setting coumpound with paper tape .We use the 90 to set the tape and for second coat and then blue lid with some water added for the slick coat.


----------



## yilmazma (Dec 13, 2012)

Thanks


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

And you do not want to skim the entire wall with hot mud. Even with your tape joints you want your top coat to be regular mud not just because it's easier to sand, which it is, but hot mud will absorb paint different than regular mud which will make it look different and harder to match.


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> Even with your tape joints you want your top coat to be regular mud not just because it's easier to sand, which it is, but hot mud will absorb paint different than regular mud which will make it look different and harder to match.


OK, I expect every newbie in here is asking themselves the same question, but most might be afraid to ask...

Wouldn't the primer take care of that? That is, wouldn't your primer plug up the porosity of hot mud just as well as it plugs up the porosity of regular mud?

If you prime the whole wall, and you don't see where your taped joints and screw locations are, then the porosity of the joint compound and the drywall face paper have both been plugged up equally well. So, why should the paint behave any differently over the joint compound than over the drywall face paper? And why would the kind of joint compound you use make any difference?

Once the porosity of both the joint compound and the drywall face paper have been plugged up with primer, neither should absorb ANY paint. That means you should have the same paint film thickness everywhere on the wall, and that should mean the paint should look the same everywhere too.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

No it's not just the porosity it is a rougher finish even after sanding, maybe because you have to sand much harder. Not sure but hot mud does have a different look to it. I know I'm not explaining well but even after you sand it it has a more gravely feel to it.


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> No it's not just the porosity it is a rougher finish even after sanding, maybe because you have to sand much harder. Not sure but hot mud does have a different look to it. I know I'm not explaining well but even after you sand it it has a more gravely feel to it.


Not sure what to say here.

I've been using Synko ProSet 90 in one form or another for the past 30 years, and I've never had a problem with sanding it smooth as a baby's bum or priming it with either 123 or general purpose PVA primers.

Perhaps we have different opinions because we've each had different personal experiences. Not all primers are the same and not all chemical set joint compounds are the same.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

There shouldn't be any problem as long as the same grit is used to sand.

FibaFuse is the way to go. Personally I use paper tape most often for corners, but I'm comfortable getting paper tape embedded without bubbles, etc. If you use FibaFuse for corners, you really should use a corner tool for embedding it. Having said that, using a corner tool would be best for DIYers anyway.

While setting compound is the strongest, FibaFuse with premixed taping compound, or even all purpose compound, is plenty strong. It starts to get weaker when mesh tape or topping compounds are used as the taping coat.


----------



## fortunerestore (Mar 6, 2014)

Yes, hot mud would definitely help in strengthening the bonds. Mostly, paper tape is used for finishing of the drywall joints as it is stronger than mesh drywall tape. Otherwise, fiberglass mesh drywall tape can also be used for increasing the strength of reinforcement in concrete slabs.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

To add to the sanding discussion, one problem I've encourntered is that the lightweight topping coats sand more easily than the setting compound. Even though it's "EasySand", that's really relative to DuraBond. It's still tougher to sand than the all purpose or lightweight topping compounds. So I would make sure the topping coats completely cover the initial setting tape coat, so that the tape coat does not need sanding.


----------

