# Blotchy paint after using Kilz to spot-prime and other similar issues



## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

*Blotchy paint after Kilz*

I just finished my 4th room...I used Kilz primer in 3 rooms with no problem; however after reading a lot of these threads  I changed to Zinsser Bullseye 123 and it is a much better latex primer. The original Kilz is good, but not the Latex.

Then again, possible the repaired areas were sanded smoother than the actual drywall which can have a very slight orange-peel effect.


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## PatD (May 27, 2009)

Yeh, after reading, NOW I hear Kilz2 is no good.

Anyway, yes - those spots were sanded. But what I'm seeing isn't the smoothness from sanding but the larger area I hit with the Kilz.


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

I'd prime the entire room then paint, but let one of the pros on here advise you. They have guided me very well.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

You really need to prime entire wall( NOT with Kilz). Spot priming is ok for very small touch up but for the most part if you get into any skimming then you really need to prime the whole wall to get an even finish at the end. Use Zinsser primers or something similar, avoid Kilz, unless it is the original oil, then be prepared to go the full respirator route, the stuff wile really do damage to the brain cells. :yes:Trust me on that.


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## PatD (May 27, 2009)

So any ideas how I resolve what I've already done?


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Oh no....you mean I need to wear a respirator while using primer???? I didn't and I've already done four rooms


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## sirwired (Jun 22, 2007)

If the stains are water stains, you will NEVER seal them up with a water-base primer, even one that doesn't suck eggs like Kilz2. Water stains need to be sealed with oil-base primer. The Kilz folks even package the oil-base Kilz in an upshooting spray can for precisely this purpose.

The reason your sheen looks different on your spot-primes is the fact that brushed-on primer wiped out the roller stipple from previous coats of paint.

To fix:
1) Spot-prime the water stains (I'm assuming that's what they are) with oil-base primer. Original Kilz will be fine. (It's the only Kilz product worth the can its packed in.)
2) Use a paint roller to roll on a nice, thick, water-base primer on the spots where your texture is all messed up. (I use SW PrepRite Pro Block Latex)
3) Topcoat the whole ceiling with two coats of rolled-on mid-grade flat.

Oh, and no, you don't need a respirator for water-base primer.

SirWired


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