# Table saw explanation.



## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

Actually if you rip 24 on the right then you will have 23 and 7/8 on the other (the blade chews up 1/8 inch) but that's not your question.

The craftsman has a sliding extension on BOTH sides which the rip fence can attach to.

Having said that, I wouldn't bother with the sliding extension type table saws. The point of a table saw is to have a rock solid and precise rip fence so you can cut perfectly straight. With the sliding extensions the groove where the rip fence locks is never perfectly square with the between the sliding extension and the and the groove in the table saw itself. This can lead to a cockeyed rip fence in situations where the lock on the rip fence is sitting 1/2 on the table saw and 1/2 on the extension slide... at least that's what I have found through experience (I have one). The rip fence which locks onto the long continuous bar is much more precise.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

I agree with Bob about the sliding extensions. The entire quality of a rip is in the quality of the rip fence and the support. If we move and downsize I may purchase one of those smaller saws but for now I like the big old Jet saw I have in the basement with the really good fence.

If you have ever seen a piece of wood take off like a dragster using nitro you should realize that a larger rip surface on the right (for RH people) so that can keep your body to the left.

If you are ripping by yourself chance are good that you will have the store reduce any 4x8 stock to smaller pieces before you tote in home. Those panel saws do a much better job than a single guy and any table saw.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Anything rather than Craftsman. I would recommend Harbor Freight before any Craftsman power tool. Really like their hand tools but their power tools are underpowered, really hard to get parts for. Their standard answer is it's cheaper to buy a new new one. A very short time after you buy yours they will change some small thing on it give it a model # and tell you parts for yours are dis continued.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

The left over piece has nothing to do with the spec on the saw. The fence can move to both sides of the blade. The spec is how much the fence can adjust on either side of the blade.


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## jbockenfeld (Jan 2, 2015)

So neither one of those is worth the money? Any suggestions on brands? I'm just a home repair/diyer. I know the $1000+ ones are the most accurate but I am not a contractor.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Sure, those saws are worth owning---Just not the ideal tool for breaking down plywood sheets----

For a smaller saw,they both have very nice rip capacity-----


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

There is a reason lumber suppliers don't cut full sheets of ply on a table saw. There are better and safer ways.


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## jbockenfeld (Jan 2, 2015)

Safer ways for at home? I've never used a panel saw from the store but I have never been successful ripping with a circular saw.


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

This is what I use to rip plywood. I have a good circular saw that I use and it works better than the table saw


https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/


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## jbockenfeld (Jan 2, 2015)

I have a bad version of that, it's horrible. How does it work with ripping smaller like where the hardwood flooring meets the wall and needs ripped in half?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Back up and think this over a minute before you determine something is horrible.

In your OP you seem to be concerned with rip capacity for cutting 4x8 sheets when shopping for a table saw. Now you've changed the subject to ripping narrow strips of flooring. That portable saw guide wasn't developed to rip narrow stock. That's for table saws and they do that very well.

The portable circular saw guides aren't meant to replace a table saw. They do what they were designed to do and do it very well.

Here is a link to a guide for breaking down sheet goods that can be built for nearly $0.0 cost. It really doesn't even need the glue in its construction, just a few screws or nails driven on the bias.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

jbockenfeld said:


> Safer ways for at home? I've never used a panel saw from the store but I have never been successful ripping with a circular saw.



If you must, there are. I have am aluminum rip fence that is 8'6" when the two halves are bolted together. It attaches to the stock with clamps. It might be a Stanley product but I could not find an online image.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

SeniorSitizen said:


> There is a reason lumber suppliers don't cut full sheets of ply on a table saw. There are better and safer ways.


Actually I do sheets on a table saw all the time. Get yourself a few of these roller stands and it's pretty easy to do.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Look through craigslist, or your local want-ads, and find yourself a used Delta Contractor's saw. Then, get a decent fence like a Biesmeyer for instance. You'll spend a little more, but you'll have ten times the saw.


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## hotrod351 (Jun 15, 2012)

this is the one i bought. like the fact that you get a lifetime warranty. cuts true, soft start. really easy fold up and move around, even in tight places.


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## hotrod351 (Jun 15, 2012)

also bought one of these. it works pretty good. also have one with the roller on top but stopped using it as soon as i got this one.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yea those stands do out perform the old roller ones. I also have a Ridgid table saw mine is the 2424 Is the number, I think, and I have had it about 12 years and the blade is the only thing I have changed. Would like a new fence though.


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## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

I've got a Bosch 4100 portable. Typically, I cut in my driveway. Using Stanley Fat Max saw horses set on... 35" I think - I'd have to check - and a piece of plywood, I've created an extended out feed table and support on left. It lets me rip 4x8 "relatively" safely. It's probably still not the best idea. I've only done this when I've had larger wood deliveries direct to the house.

Usually, I'll do what the other guys suggest and have my first couple of known big rips done a the store. I know what I'm building and have a cultist. No need to do everything myself if I don't have to. I've also got this...

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c48/saw-attachments/p79/rip-cuttrade/

it's attached to my cheap Ryobi circular saw. It's surprisingly accurate. Not as rock solid precise as table saw, but if I take care in set up and take my time, it's gets me either all the way there or so close it's just a quick edge cleanup on the table afterwards. The key to this tool is using several 2x4s - or whatever - underneath as a base to crawl along while cutting. It seems the longer self made guides would be more solid, (though you have to clamp just right and make sure you have enough room for clamps instead of just referencing off a factory edge), but Iv'e not felt the need to build one. The Kreg thingy gets me where I want to go. And probably safer than when I rip a full sheet alone on the table saw, even with my extensions / additions.

In any case, the Bosch 4100 on the rolling / collapsible stand was dead on accurate out of the box. So is the miter gauge even though it doesn't seem like it would be. I've build a bunch of stuff with it and it's come out very nicely. Handles dado blade well, and so on. Also has standard slots on table. make sure you check that. If you want to buy accessories or make your own jigs, you should realize not everyone has standards. This might not matter if you're just going to make your own runners. But if you want to buy accessories or aluminum bars for jigs or sleds you build on top, you'll want standard slots.


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