# Have a railing project to do; split foyer home.



## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

Dave88LX said:


> Any thoughts on wooden vs. metal railings?


Since you're so close... see Chris at Mandala:
http://www.mandalacreations.com/interior/railings/


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That's one odd stair case.
It's missing a landing tread at the top of the stairs.
It should have been open on the left hand side looking up the stairs with no apron.
The treads are to narrow for an open stair.
There's no railing or knee wall behind that couch.

Is that top stair tread high on the right hand side?


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

I have a bi-level also. The area under the closet should have been framed straight down, which would mean the rail could end right at the wall with no weird spindles.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

Here are a couple pics. We built the house about 18 years ago.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

sixeightten said:


> The area under the closet should have been framed straight down, which would mean the rail could end right at the wall with no weird spindles.


+1 on that... Someone went out of their way to create that little detail in the pic. It was a great idea in someones mind at the time I guess. :wink:


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

I agree, the wall should've gone down. You could leave it like it is and make those treads open on the upper stair. Or, you could attach a post at the bottom like there was before only I would come off it with a 1/4 turn and then go up the stairs so that you can bypass that wall at the top. Then 1/4 turn back into the wall at the top.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

You're right about the closet coming straight down. I don't know WHY it was cut like that exactly, but I can offer two reasons:
1. If it were squared off, we would all hit our heads on the corner walking down the stairs.
2. The closet was extended out like that in order to have deeper shelves, at the expense of having a shallow angled floor, and subsequently, stupid looking wall like I know have.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

TarheelTerp said:


> Since you're so close... see Chris at Mandala:
> http://www.mandalacreations.com/interior/railings/


He _looks_ expensive. That is some nice work. In all honesty, I just need to build this "good enough to rent". I'm so upside-down with this house, and bought at a horrible time (Spring 2007). I don't want to skimp on workmanship, I want to build it correctly and the best within my ability; but I don't want to put a lot of money into fancy materials.



joecaption said:


> That's one odd stair case.
> It's missing a landing tread at the top of the stairs.
> It should have been open on the left hand side looking up the stairs with no apron.
> The treads are to narrow for an open stair.
> ...


It sure is. I don't have a landing tread for it, but I do have a bullnose piece that hangs over. I haven't installed it yet because I have no idea how I am going to do these stairs either. That's a whoooooole 'nother thread. My stringers have grooves along the edges for the existing treads. If I knock the noses off the treads to put the new bullnose pieces on, then I will have big holes on either side of the staircase in the stringer. I'm not sure what to do. Is apron the stringer?

Hell, these stairs will come out by undoing a couple screws. Probably be easier to just rip them out and start over.:whistling2: Wife would love me. Rental ready...rental ready.

I'm looking to build a railing behind the couch also. I need to build both. I'm not sure exactly how to proceed with that either. Where in relation to the top of the landing does the newel post need to sit? (How far past the top step must it come?) Does it need to extend beyond it? Centered? Can the furthest edge be near-flush with the step?

sixeightten: Looks good; if I had carpet, this would be a WHOLE lot easier. I pulled carpet out though, pretty close to that color.:laughing:




Millertyme said:


> I agree, the wall should've gone down. You could leave it like it is and make those treads open on the upper stair. Or, you could attach a post at the bottom like there was before only I would come off it with a 1/4 turn and then go up the stairs so that you can bypass that wall at the top. Then 1/4 turn back into the wall at the top.


I'm not exactly following; maybe it's too late for my brain.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Note for myself for later.
http://www.woodstairs.com/handrail-c-52.html?zenid=d77279229bbb6f35ad604ac83734559d

http://www.westfiremfg.com/html/stair_codes.html

http://www.woodstairs.com/tradepage/stair-angles-and-miters/


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

What is a handrail vs. guardrail? Am I looking at 36-38" or 44" for the landing?

http://www.westfiremfg.com/html/stair_codes.html


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

sixeightten said:


> Here are a couple pics. We built the house about 18 years ago.


Something like this only this is not a legal setup. The rake rail dies into the wall well before the last step. This will make the person have to reach for the rail on their way down. One rail should be continuous 6" past leading edge of top and lower steps. There should've been an s-turn fitting to bypass the wall first and then miter back into wall. I personally think this setup in pic is ok but I'm addressing it because it could be a code violation.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

I'm going to start with the top railing across the flat landing. Can anyone give me a quick rundown on the order of installation or a good how-to link? YouTube video I've found are junk. I'm OK with the math/spacing etc., just curious about the construction.

I bought:
- handrail w/ fillet
- square balusters
- rosette
- 3/4" Forstner bit
- newel base kit
- (2) rail bolt kits

From what I've found so far, the rosette will attach to the end of the rail first with two screws.
The rail will attach to the newel post with the rail kit, OR, should I do it by using a lag bolt THROUGH the newel post?
Either way, attach that. Then attach the rosette to the wall with a screw in the top, two nails through the bottom?

I can follow directions, I just can't find good ones.

This is essentially exactly what I need to do:


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Newel post is set up. I'll keep you posted.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

It ain't perfect, but, it's good enough for a house I'll be renting out, beats the $2600 I was quoted.

Measured once, cut twice.  Darn /32's.










Should be done tomorrow as long as my plug cutter gets here to fix that thing above.









Should be done tomorrow as long as my plug cutter gets here to fix that thing above.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Not bad for a first shot. Made a few mistakes on it, it's not perfect. But, it's solid. Rather have the couple mistakes and save the $2600 I was quoted to do it.

Last up is the newel post trim. Screwed it up trying to trim it.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

You did a good job on it. It looks nice. Thanks for posting the pics. 
My house is a split level too - built in the '70's. 
I've been wanting to re-do the stairway for a couple of years now.

.


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