# How to restain kitchen cabinets?



## kennykenny

I am thinking about restaining my kitchen cabinets. The wood is in great shape, it's just that my wife would like a darker color. The finish now has a shiny polyurethene finish over the stain. Can anyone give advice on how to strip the old stain and polyurethene finish off to prepare for the new stain job. Is this a huge, messy job? Would it include sanding to prepare the surface too? Also, once the new stain is applied, what kind of protective finish should I apply over the stain that is not shiny like the old finish. My wife says that "model" homes now have a flatter finish to them. What do you all think? Thanks for everyones opinion.


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## Rehabber

Attempting to remove all the old finish will be a MAJOR undertaking. My recomendation would be to _lightly _sand the surfaces and use a tinted polyurethane. To get an even coat / stain color, you will need to spray it on with an HVLP sprayer.


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## kennykenny

Thanks for the advice. What does the tinted polyurethane do? Does it give the shine(assuming not as shiny, depending on the color chosen) over the existing stain or will it change the color? Thanks!


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## StevePM

There are two ways you can go -- refinishing or refacing. Refinishing involves stripping the old finish while refacing involves replacing the doors and drawer fronts along with new veneer over the rest of the cabinet.

Refinishing is major work, but you can send the doors out to be dipped rather than strip them by hand. It's messy, time consuming work. Get a quality wood stripper and follow the instructions. It isn't hard, just messy. 

Refacing is also time consuming and requires more skill than refinishing. You'll need to get new doors, drawer fronts, and veneer. There are places on the internet that sell these pre-finished. You'll also need some veneer "tape" for other exposed surfaces.

I'm considering a similar refresh to my kitchen and will probably reface rather than refinish.

Good luck!


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## kennykenny

I would hate to replace the doors and other items on the cabinets because the wood is still in good shape. It's just that the color is now "wrong."


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## Rehabber

The stain is in the poly. Just pick the shade you want. Oh yeah and high gloss, semi gloss or satin. A complete refinish or reface is unnecessary.


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## joewho

Keep in mind that using tinted poly over the existing color will not produce the color you thought it would........


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## Debbie08

*restaining cabinets*

Hi 
I have restained oak cabinets in our bathroom using the Minwax Polyshades (it is the stain and polyurithane in one). I got a beautiful result using the bombay mahogony color. It looks like new cabinets. I wanted a dark rich color so I put about 6-8 coats. Now I want to do the same in our other bathroom but instead of 8 coats of the stain/polyurethane, I thought I would do the 8 coats of regular stain and then one coat of polyurethane on top at the end. The problem is that the regular stain is not covering the wood like the Polyshade did (I don't want to see the wood through the stain). I am up to 5 coats and the wood still shows through once I wipe the excess stain off with a rag. I tried to leave the stain on without wiping as that is how I applied the polyshade, but the regular stain doesn't dry if I do that (it stays tacky). anyone have advice for how to get a solid looking color from stain?


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## Allison1888

*cabinets*

You also could lightly sand and then paint and use a dark color or apply a glaze over the paint. I know that's a different look, but I think it would be a little easier. Here are a few links:

(painting cabinets)
http://www.oldhouseweb.com/how-to-advice/painting-kitchen-cabinets.shtml

(staining..talks about gel stain)
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0222155211708.html


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## user1007

Stain and poly are two very different things. Even with the combo products the wood only gets the stain when it is new. All you are doing is building up the poly surface with a suspension of pigment applying poly stain over poly to start. Which is fine if you are getting the look you want. 

The only way to think about restaining wood cabinets is to strip back to bare wood where hopefully a darker stain can be absorbed to achieve the look you want. Then you can refinish to whatever sheen and luster you want with polyurethane or varnish in whatever sheen you want. 

Look in your phone book for paint prep people, or strippers but not the kinky kind. You would be surprised at how little they cost. I have had mixed results with those who dip because the chemicals can discolor the wood to kind of dull grey to start---fine for painting. I use a person for staircases, kitchens and things that comes out for a few days with a system that gets it all for a fraction of what I would pay for chemicals alone.


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## Rcon

Debbie08 said:


> Hi
> I have restained oak cabinets in our bathroom using the Minwax Polyshades (it is the stain and polyurithane in one). I got a beautiful result using the bombay mahogony color. It looks like new cabinets. I wanted a dark rich color so I put about 6-8 coats. Now I want to do the same in our other bathroom but instead of 8 coats of the stain/polyurethane, I thought I would do the 8 coats of regular stain and then one coat of polyurethane on top at the end. The problem is that the regular stain is not covering the wood like the Polyshade did (I don't want to see the wood through the stain). I am up to 5 coats and the wood still shows through once I wipe the excess stain off with a rag. I tried to leave the stain on without wiping as that is how I applied the polyshade, but the regular stain doesn't dry if I do that (it stays tacky). anyone have advice for how to get a solid looking color from stain?


If you want a solid color you're far better off to simply paint. You cannot apply a stain to a sealed surface. 

You could stick with the polyshades (keeping in mind that 8 coats of anything produces so much build that it will crack), or you could take a sample of what you're working on to a paint store (one that tints clearcoats) and get a brush on toner, preferrably one that gives you the correct color in 2 coats. The idea is to mix a small amount of stain in a compatible clearcoat and tone your doors to the color you're after.


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## Debbie08

*Cabinet restain*

This is a picture that I cut and pasted from another site that gives the stain color that I am talking about when I say a "solid looking stain" . You cannot see the wood grain through the stain. I got this look using the polyshade (2 in one) but needed alot of coats. I had sent the doors out to have them done professionally (stripped and stained) and matched the cabinets. I want to get the same depth of color in a different shade now (a cherry color) for another bathroom. Any ideas?


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## chrisn

22,446 views?


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## chrisn

To answer you're question,painting might be best,easiest.


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## mreda

*rehabber*

I tend to agree with you. I am not sure about spraying tough. Do you thing I can get the same result with brush or roll painting? It is not that I disagree with you, it is just i am not used to spray, specially inside the house.


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## Rcon

mreda said:


> I tend to agree with you. I am not sure about spraying tough. Do you thing I can get the same result with brush or roll painting? It is not that I disagree with you, it is just i am not used to spray, specially inside the house.


You can't get the same quality finish with a brush/roller that you can with a sprayer when it comes to fine finish work. 

But I wouldn't recommend spraying if you don't know how to use a sprayer. You could end up with quite a mess.


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## BrianP3222

*SAND AND USE GEL STAIN VERY SIMPLE*

*http://WWW.AlandBriansPainting.com*


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## housepaintingny

If the cabinets have poly on them the surface is sealed and will not take stain. I have used minwax polyshades many times and also numerous times over a polyed surface. It is basically polyurethane with a toner in it. I have never had to apply 8 coats as someone mentioned they had to. We usually only apply 2-3 coats to achieve the desired look. First sand every thing with 120 grit sandpaper evenly to dull the surface. Clean all surfaces with tsp and rinse well. Apply your polyshades in the desired color with brush, roller, or hvlp. Sand in between coats with 000 steel wool. Wipe the dust off. Apply until you get your desired color. The more you apply the darker it will be.


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## Brushjockey

Glad that worked for you. You must have had the material dialed way back, otherwise with that many passes i would expect it to load up and sag.


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## Comcneil

I had it very low. I tried dialing it up a little yesterday to get a deeper color on the first few passes an learned a valuable lesson. Newbie + unsteady hands + higher spray volume = uneven disaster.


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