# Garage door header size



## Bogey0345 (Nov 26, 2009)

I'm planning on installing a 7'x9' garage door in a walkout basement of one a one story ranch on the gable side wall.
The height of the basement is 7'-8 1/2" floor to ceiling joist.
The walls are 2x6 and there are 2 - 2x6 sills below the joist.
If I remove 1-2x6 sill will a triple 9'9" 2x6 header with a 2x6 jam be enough to support the wall load? Or could I use a triple 9'9" 2x8 header without a 2x6 jam (just use a 1x8 trim jam instead)?

Thanks for your help, Bogey


----------



## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Bogey, WELCOME TO THE fORUM.

I hope you are looking for background info before you hire an Engineer to do the design. Any Building department will require an Engineers buy off on any plans because of all the variables. This is not an enterprise that can be designed with a cook book solution. Without an Engineers stamp, whatever goes wrong in the future, your defense can't be that you got approval off the Internet. The lawyers will eat you alive.
.


----------



## kgincolumbus (Nov 25, 2009)

I'm thinking 2x10's or 9-1/4' LVL's would be the minimum. Remember you are carrying not only the weight of the floor above but the wall, gable and roof as well. I agree with Bob, probably best to have it checked out by a pro.

Kurt


----------



## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

Bogey0345 said:


> I'm planning on installing a 7'x9' garage door in a walkout basement of one a one story ranch on the gable side wall.


The joists are probably running parallel to the gable end so the header won't be carrying the floor joists load. That's not always the case though. I've framed many houses where the joists sat on the gable end. You have to check. The header obviously isn't carrying the rafters because it's the gable end.

No one here can tell you what size header to use. They can give you a few examples of what they have used, but without knowing what the wall is carrying, no one can help. You might be able to install (3) 1-3/4 x 7-1/4" lvl's by cutting out the 2-sill plates. You should get an Architect or Engineer to tell you what you need.

Another thing is that in some areas the Building Department doesn't require an Engineers stamp. The HO can submit drawings and what size beam they need. The thing is, how do you know what size you need, you don't. That's why you should have an Architect or Engineer look at it and tell you what you need.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Welcome to the forum! 

1. Are you supporting any floor? Does the floor span whole building or on a center bearing wall?

2. Is this to enlarge an existing door/window opening? 

3. Is it within 3' of the end of the building?

4. Does this require a permit?

Be safe, Gary


----------



## Paulie (Nov 26, 2009)

PaliBob said:


> Bogey, WELCOME TO THE fORUM.
> 
> I hope you are looking for background info before you hire an Engineer to do the design. Any Building department will require an Engineers buy off on any plans because of all the variables. This is not an enterprise that can be designed with a cook book solution. Without an Engineers stamp, whatever goes wrong in the future, your defense can't be that you got approval off the Internet. The lawyers will eat you alive.
> .


What he said.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

My local lumber company sized my beams & even sent out for an engineer stamp for free
I've been told what the stamp part is pretty rare, but there are companies around that may size the beam for you
I did buy my beams & more from them once I recd my permit


----------



## dale's nails (Nov 8, 2009)

*garage door*

your ceiling height might be too low for the guide rail curve especially if you want to install an opener. check it out. my installer likes to have 15 inches more than the door height. as far as the header is concerned you dont need one, for two reasons; #1 you're installing this door on a gable wall. the only weight that is forcing downward is the wall above and not the load of the roof as its forces are directed to the outside edge (right and left) the gable (triangle) actually helps in preventing deflection of the house wall. #2 if the existing wall above is sheathed in plywood or boards you have about ten times the amount of support you need. think of a beam with a web of 7 to 8 feet high. thats what the sheathing does.(creates a beam) the only thing that would challenge the structural integrity of your plan would be if all of the sheathing nails rusted away. if you are in doubt. ask a demolition expert and ask him if he would try to crush a wall like yours using a downward vertical force. a medium to large size excavator would have difficulty crushing that wall. when you take all of these things into consideration, you could create a 16 foot opening and still not jepordize the structural integrity of the building. building inspectors have to go by what's in the book. most do not have a expansive understanding of what works and what doesn't. they're not bad guys, they just don't know. if you were affecting a wall with a roof load, then i would be more concerned as i would not want to rely soley on the sheating as my only means of support. think of the gable and the sheathing as suspenders holding up a pair of pants. many times we dont have to prop something up from underneath to make something structurally sound. check on that door height though to make sure it will work for you. if have an suv, a 6'6" door probably wont work. just thinkin. good luck


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

My 9' wide garage doors they sized at (2) 12" LVL's
Great room over the garage, walk up attic
So I needed more support


----------



## Bogey0345 (Nov 26, 2009)

Thanks guys for your input. This is NOT an load bearing wall. The header runs parallel to the floor joists.
The wall above is an exterior wall made of 2x6 studs 16" on center with 3/4" vertical cedar siding on 3/4" plywood sheathing. The floor joists and headers are 2x10 above the wall I'm removing. So there will be TWO headers on top of each other with the 2x6 plate sandwiched between to support the exterior wall.
Guess what I'm looking for is the allowable header SPAN for the load of a non load bearing wall.


----------



## Paulie (Nov 26, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> My local lumber company sized my beams & even sent out for an engineer stamp for free
> I've been told what the stamp part is pretty rare, but there are companies around that may size the beam for you
> I did buy my beams & more from them once I recd my permit


I would take Dave's advice. Seek out a lumber yard or some professional and get some input as to your needs. The thing is you can span most any space with the proper lumber/material. I just had to have a clear span of 24' for a job. I went to a structural engineer and he gave me the proper dimensions of LVL's I needed for the space. I then had the documentation for the city and the permit was granted. Just guessing or going on the advice of persons that have not even seen what your doing is risky business and could come back to bite you later on. Good luck.


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

if there is no plumbing or wiring in the band/joist pocket I would add two more 2x10's to the rim joist and be done with it, at that point you just frame the opening below


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Any wall above a header is called load bearing, there is weight to it. It may be carrying the gable framing, more weight, part of the roof load, etc. You need to add all these up. 
I suggest a permit because your County will check for land use and/or zoning. 

I asked about 3' to the corner because that is usually required for corner shear flow of the structure. If in the middle of the house, there are many header charts available on-line like this for exterior walls to get your permit: http://www.burlington.org/Building08/Spans.pdf Just search your County's site. 
Be safe, Gary


----------

