# Is it me, or my drill?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Pretty wimpy drill for that job.
SO what's it doing? Stalling out, just spinning?
Going to have to push hard to get the screw started.


----------



## jonnyd (Jul 11, 2015)

It's just hitting the metal and not going in, spinning on the surface. When I fastened the studs with the #8s, I had to push hard to get them in, but they went in.

I am hoping that it's the drill, so that I can just rent a more powerful one.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No way would I rent a drill, just go buy one.
I use my Ryobi impact driver far more then my drills.
It will drive screws, nuts, bolts, drill holes far faster then a drill.
Only time I use a drill any more is if I'm drilling metal or concrete.
Sound like your just not pushing hard enough.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-18...er-Drill-and-Impact-Driver-Kit-P898/205308754


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I know a few times when I have worked with metal studs I have had to PRE-DRILL the holes through the drywall and through the studs. Just be sure your pre-drilled hole is SMALLER than the size of your screws. Of course, a more powerful drill will do the trick as well. Anyone in your neighborhood willing to loan you an 18v or 20volt?


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Your not using the right screws. Standard drywall screws are not going to go into metal studs without a pilot hole.

You need to use self taping screws made for drywall and metal studs.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

ddawg16 has it right.Regular fine thread drywalls screws are not made for going into metal.And either way,as Joe suggested, the drill is pretty wimpy for the job.


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

mako1 said:


> ddawg16 has it right.Regular fine thread drywalls screws are not made for going into metal


Actually, they are made specifically for metal studs


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Maybe I should have been more specific.There are fine thread drywall screws made for metal that are self tapping.Not all fine thread drywall screws are self tapping.


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

Are you talking about pointers or self drillers? You don't use self drillers on 25ga


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

The OP's drill motor is probably too slow


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I was speaking specifically to the ops problem using his 9.6 V Craftsman drill.This is a DIY forum and not everyone wants to go spend $200 on a new driver for a small DIY project.I was giving him an option that would work for him.


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

mako1 said:


> I was speaking specifically to the ops problem using his 9.6 V Craftsman drill.This is a DIY forum and not everyone wants to go spend $200 on a new driver for a small DIY project.I was giving him an option that would work for him.


The title of this thread is "is it me, or my drill?" 

I was answering that


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Of course it's his drill.I think joe has answered that question a few posts back.I was trying to give him some options with his present drill until you came along and wanting to argue over the details.I am a pro and belong to several pro forums.This is a diy forum as you know and most of these guys want the cheapest and easiest fix.
I thought the info I gave was helpful to his situation.Contradicting me is not.


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

Thanks for the CV. You gave him several answers about fine thread drywall screws which were in error. You may not like people contradicting your errors, but that doesn't concern me.

The OP should make sure his direction of travel is correct


----------



## jonnyd (Jul 11, 2015)

I'll get going on that upgraded drill. Maybe if I'm stepping up to finishing a basement, it's time for a better tool. 

I feel comfortable with the screws as they are the same ones from the manufacturer's video. They used #8 self-tapping to join the studs to tracks, and fine thread to do the drywall application.

Thanks for the digram, I'll need to study it a bit before getting started.

Thanks all.


----------



## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Everybody needs a better drill than a 9.6v, whether they're redoing a basement or not. 

The Ryobi is a decent homeowner grade drill, and they have a bazillion tools that work on that battery platform, from a miter saw to a weedeater.


----------



## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

Just curious, if the fine thread drywall screws (without the self tapping tip, just the regular super sharp point) are not meant for metal stud framing... what are they for? 

I was always under the impression that the fine thread are for metal stud, while the coarse thread are for wood stud. Or are those fine thread more for a thinner gauge metal stud?


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

scyarch said:


> Just curious, if the fine thread drywall screws (without the self tapping tip, just the regular super sharp point) are not meant for metal stud framing... what are they for?
> 
> I was always under the impression that the fine thread are for metal stud, while the coarse thread are for wood stud. Or are those fine thread more for a thinner gauge metal stud?


Fine thread pointers=25 to 22 ga studs. Self drilling tappers=20 ga and heavier.

Our self described pro Mako got this all messed up in his posts


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I learned something today.

I didn't realize the fine thread screws were for 25g steel studs. But then again, I would never use studs that light. I can't help but wonder how you can put enough force on the screw to start the hole without the stud twisting.

I'm guessing the drill needs to go fast to start the screw?

I found this link describing the different drywall attachment methods

http://www.homedepot.com/c/how_to_install_drywall_with_right_nails_and_screws_HT_BG_BM


----------



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

ddawg16 said:


> I learned something today.
> 
> I didn't realize the fine thread screws were for 25g steel studs. But then again, I would never use studs that light.


Most office walls in modern office towers are 25a. They can make a tough wall when sided with 5/8" GWB and properly attached to the building structure.



ddawg16 said:


> I can't help but wonder how you can put enough force on the screw to start the hole without the stud twisting.
> 
> I'm guessing the drill needs to go fast to start the screw?


Yea


----------



## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Jonnyd,
I've been using a 9.6v Dewalt drill for years. Built a kitchen, deck, garage, addition and a bathroom. The second set of batteries are just about toast. For my most recent project, another kitchen, I treated myself to an 18v lithium Makita kit, with drill and impact driver. HOLY COW! This kit, especially the impact driver, makes everything easier. 

Buy a new drill kit. Then use the impact driver on the screws.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Heck....

I just put a phillips bit in my old brace and go get'er done.


(Started last January, and I'm on my third stud already...)


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

"Our self described pro Mako got this all messed up in his posts "

I think that comment was uncalled for and out of line.I have made a good living in the trades for over 40 years doing everything form custom homes and remodeling to high rise condos on the beaches in FL. If I make a typo or you disagree with my opinion I would expect for you to handle it on the internet as you would in person.
I was simply offering the op another alternative for fasteners without having to upgrade his drill. Most of this chit is not set in stone.If fine thread screws will not work with his drill I imagine self tappers will.
No reason to get an attitude with or badmouth me who you don't even know.


----------



## jonnyd (Jul 11, 2015)

I did upgrade the drill (19.2 v), and picked up a dewalt drywall screw setter for the drill. The screw setter bit really makes a difference b/c I'm not thinking about ripping up the drywall. After playing around with torque settings and practicing on scrap pieces, I started getting the right results. The screws are going into the drywall much easier with perfect little dimples. Thanks for the help.


----------



## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

mako1 said:


> "Our self described pro Mako got this all messed up in his posts "
> 
> I think that comment was uncalled for and out of line.I have made a good living in the trades for over 40 years doing everything form custom homes and remodeling to high rise condos on the beaches in FL. If I make a typo or you disagree with my opinion I would expect for you to handle it on the internet as you would in person.
> I was simply offering the op another alternative for fasteners without having to upgrade his drill. Most of this chit is not set in stone.If fine thread screws will not work with his drill I imagine self tappers will.
> No reason to get an attitude with or badmouth me who you don't even know.


I don't think Anti-wingnut meant to offend in his post, even if that's how it came off. I just think he was trying to clarify to me about the purpose of fine-thread drywall screws with the regular point and not the self-tapping point, that some are for thinner gauge steel studs as opposed to thicker gauge. You brought up how not all fine thread drywall screws are for metal as opposed to thin vs thicker gauge metal. 

He was more clarifying that point to me, and I am sure that he, as well as myself might be safe in assuming you typically only work with a certain gauge of steel studs, and so the thought of the thinner gauge studs may have never crossed your mind. I never saw any mention anywhere of a specific gauge of steel stud and you were only trying to help the OP as we are all here to do- I would hope 

Anyways, apologies for any offenses put forth as a result of my inquiry. I hadn't thought about the fact that there could be two different gauges of steel stud framing, despite the fact that I probably should have known better.


----------

