# ramps for truck repair - what to use ?



## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

I hope this is in the right section of the forum , if not moderators please move it . My pick up weighs 7300 lbs. per the counties weight scale at the dump . For doing simple maintenance like oil/filter changes I need to get the front of the truck higher to make it easier to crawl under . I did an online search and too many negative reviews on the plastic style of ramps for my liking . So that narrows it down to conventional metal style or make my own out of wood .

What weight rating ramps are you guys using ? Are the plain Jane metal ramps sufficient ? I think most metal ramps are rated for 5,000 lbs. as a pair , that should work correct ? Or should I just slap together some 2x10's or 2x12's and be done with it ?


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## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

I don't like trusting my life to something that's hollow, or at least partially hollow, like the steel ramps are. No matter how much they may have tested the "inner/under structure", I don't trust it. I either use wood blocks after using a jack...or use solid wood from the ground up ramps.

Some love the steel ramps, some love the plastic...it's just not for me. And my truck doesn't weigh anywhere near 7300#


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

When I have to change the oil on a vehicle that doesn't have enough clearance I use a jack to raise it and remove the plug and filter, then lower it so the oil will drain properly.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1.  

I would get a proper floor jack and some jackstands. Leave the floor jack under it as well. You sure you really need the extra clearance?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

My ramps are a little longer than normal, and are made of channel aluminum with tread plate over the frame. Remember, steel will be slick and you may slide if tread metal is not used. I don't need ramps with the Ram 3500, but it is nice for the ZTR and smaller cars without clearance. Ram weighs in at 8300 lbs, but remember not all that weight will be exerted on the ramps.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Forgot to mention I sometimes do oil changes on a concrete surface and other times on a gravel driveway . Any yes I've done enough oil changes on this truck to know some extra height/clearance is wanted by me . I think I will just make a pair of wood ramps out of 2x12's and be done with it . I have a 7K rated 2 post lift in my man cave but I just don't feel comfortable pushing the weight limit . I know there is probably a 20 % safety factor built in by the manufacturer but I'm not a gambler :biggrin2:

I work part time at an automotive shop that has 9K rated 2 post lifts , I have had my truck on those several times and didn't feel real good about being under the truck even then . Appreciate the feedback gentleman .


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

The weight rating on the lifts is more about the motors, usually, and less about the actual weight it can hold. If it can lift it, when the latch pins drop, it can usually hold it.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Like Porsche I never cared for the purchased ramps. When I was needing ramps several years ago I had a solid beam piece of lumber about the right X by X . Took the chain saw and cut in half on about a 20° angle. There, done except storage. Needing to hang on the garage wall to store I nailed a 1/4" piece of plywood to the bottom long enuff to extend about 6". Bored a 1" hole in that ply extension to hang on a nail in the wall stud. There, now i'm done.


I use those now to elevate the lawn tractor. On smooth garage concrete they tend to slide when ramping up but I've discovered a simple solution to remedy that.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Rhino Ramps has a set that they claim a GVW capacity of 16,000 lb.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Porsche986S said:


> Or should I just slap together some 2x10's or 2x12's and be done with it ?


That's what I have (2 x 12's). But in my case, the home-made was just because I had an exceptionally low sportscar that required rather shallow ramp angle to not rub the front air dam.
But for a truck that heavy, it would be nice to have ramps with capacity stamped on them.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

My husband's thinking to get these for that kinda stuff - 




He's got metal ramps, but he thinks their too much of a pain to use (so he doesn't and uses jack stands and makes me pretty nervous) and the ramps don't really work with the trailblazer he says. Weight issue? Or maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself lol)


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself


sounds like a plan! :biggrin2:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I use a hydraulic floor jack, then use CMU blocks under the tires to support my vehicles. 

As a 23 year old, I crawled under a car that was supported by a jack in a snowbank , Well to shorten the story, it fell on me, cracked my skull, blinded one eye, deafened one ear, I spent 2 weeks in a coma, and 2 months learning to walk, feed myself, all the things a toddler learns once, I had to do all over again. 

Anyway, I suggest that you use something even more substantial than a 2X12, as your ramps, Mystress's lift, is not strong enough for me, a neat toy, but trust my life to it, not gonna happen. 

At the scrap iron recycle yard they have 10" wide Channel iron, that with a little modification, and an added set of 2X2 square tube legs for the height, you will have a strong HEAVY duty set that will last for your grandkids lifetime.

ED


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I wouldn't trust a cinder block as a jack stand!


2x12s are safe as long as you don't drive off of the edge. Those type of ramps aren't built like a typical ramp as they are laid flat each layer being shorter than the rest. A 6" tall ramp would be four 2x12s thick. IMO they are too heavy to use unless you have a dedicated space for them to always stay and be used.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

mark sr said:


> I wouldn't trust a cinder block as a jack stand!
> 
> 
> 2x12s are safe as long as you don't drive off of the edge. Those type of ramps aren't built like a typical ramp as they are laid flat each layer being shorter than the rest. A 6" tall ramp would be four 2x12s thick. IMO they are too heavy to use unless you have a dedicated space for them to always stay and be used.


CMU are not cinder block. and you do not place a load on the hollow , you place the load on the solid . 

I had not pictured the 2X12s as a series of lengths stacked as you describe, 

Yes that will support a load, but as you said, one must drive up the slope, not off the edge, or the end, So I would advise using a edging to prevent driving off.

A 2X2 should give the driver a feel for the edge.


ED


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Not sure how you would drive off the edge ? You have the wheels on the truck straight , you line up and push the ramps so they are touching the tires . Drive the truck forward about 18 - 24 inches and stop . You would have to be quite the dim bulb to get that wrong :biggrin2: Now going too far and driving off the end is possible , so mount a 2x12 stop on the end of the ramp and you are set . Only raising the vehicle 6 " so don't need a super structure , four 2x12's cut to varying lengths then glued and screwed together will last a VERY long time . 

This discussion can be closed , I have my game plan just need to execute . Thanks to all that have given advice .


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Once ramps are set up for a particular vehicle you may be surprised how much work 3 tabs of black duck tape on the floor can save you the next time. 2 tabs to position the front of the ramps and 1 tab to the rear on the driver's side to position a length of 4x4 chock to stop the vehicle at a precise location.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Porsche986S said:


> Now going too far and driving off the end is possible , so mount a 2x12 stop on the end of the ramp and you are set . .


That's what I got.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Mystriss said:


> My husband's thinking to get these for that kinda stuff - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVMVVHOXJ6Y
> 
> He's got metal ramps, but he thinks their too much of a pain to use (so he doesn't and uses jack stands and makes me pretty nervous) and the ramps don't really work with the trailblazer he says. Weight issue? Or maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself lol)





You can't use this on pickup truck. Those lifts are for unibody vehicles, truck is body on frame.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Yes you can. 

They make attachments that put posts on the platforms to lift at the frame rails.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

I have black plastic ramps for my truck jobs. Sold at any parts store. They are rated to 12000 lb EACH. They are a bit on a low side but strong like hell. That's what you want. Also, heavy duty jackstands.
Also, toss truck bottle jack and buy this:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/powerbuilt-3-ton-all-in-one-jack?solr=1&cm_vc=-10005


It is totally superior to factory jack, very sturdy, locks at various heights and is much more suitable for truck jobies. A bit bulky but fits under the rear seat.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Windows on Wash said:


> Yes you can.
> 
> They make attachments that put posts on the platforms to lift at the frame rails.



Of course they do. I have 7000 lb scissor lift. Frame adapter is $750 in itself. While same time I can get removable 2 poster with same capacity for few thousand bucks and not hassle with such set up instability. 

As I said, I do HAVE scissor lift, I KNOW what they feel like.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I am not saying I would crawl under that rig either, but you said that can't lift a truck because of the body on frame design. I was just pointing out that was erroneous. I wasn't the one that said to use that set up. I recommended jackstands in a previous post. I never like driving up ramps, but I have used them to support a vehicle once it lifted.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Ok, I'll correct myself.


you can't use it* as is* for trucks. You have to buy expensive adapter for frame and be prepared to get from underneath it the very moment it starts feeling rickety. 

Is it better?


As alternative, here's 6000lb stow away 2 poster. Outside of limited height raise, I'd buy it in heartbeat.Unfortunately, I already have my rickety beast and wife that does not tolerate new purchases of such nature.


https://dannmar.com/m-6.html


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I have the black rhino 12000 lb ramps and the Powerbuilt jack/jackstand combo. I also have two, 6-ton jackstands. They supported my Navigator very solidly. I was paranoid about it coming down on me, so I used them in various combinations, along with a 3 ton jack. Since my Navigator got totalled, they are gathering dust in the basement. Haven't had my Avalon up off the ground yet, but I have some 3-ton jackstands for support whenever I need them.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

ukrkoz said:


> Ok, I'll correct myself.
> 
> you can't use it* as is* for trucks. You have to buy expensive adapter for frame and be prepared to get from underneath it the very moment it starts feeling rickety.
> 
> ...



No need to amend the record. This wasn't about a "gotcha" moment. 

The add-ons for the scissor lift for trucks is about $200 so I am not sure that counts as a super "expensive" option. I agree with you that I would much rather have the 2 post lift, but many folks may not have the space or ability to put that up. 



At 6,000lbs, that wouldn't lift that truck according to the rating for the $2,400 vs. a 7,000lbs for about $1,700 and less footprint. 

I still think that for the $1,700 scissor lift, I would much rather have some bottle jacks and jackstands and keep the about $1,500 delta.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I have one of these myself. I got the 7000# model to use with my Vette and truck (with the adapters)... although my truck weighs only like 4200#, so plenty of safety margin. But I don't believe they make one heavy duty enough for the OP's truck. Each side unit of my 7000# model weighs 96 pounds, up from ~55 pounds of the 5000 pound model. a 10,000 pound model would be too heavy to manage.

I am a little puzzled by the OP's situation, however, because even with my unlifted small truck (Toyota Tacoma) I can easily get under it for oil changes without any sort of lift or ramp. The Vette, not so much.





Mystriss said:


> My husband's thinking to get these for that kinda stuff - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVMVVHOXJ6Y
> 
> He's got metal ramps, but he thinks their too much of a pain to use (so he doesn't and uses jack stands and makes me pretty nervous) and the ramps don't really work with the trailblazer he says. Weight issue? Or maybe he's just trying to justify the toy purchase to himself lol)


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

What year vette?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

2016. It's blue.... and low... so no way to do anything underneath without some sort of ramps or lift.



Windows on Wash said:


> What year vette?


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

This is the video that kinda "sold" my husband (and I) on the quickjack. Guy gets a big'ol pick-em-up truck lifted on the 5000SLX model and he pushes on the truck while it's locked in the full up position, no movement at all. I consider it safer than the method my husband's been using to get himself under the vehicles. 

We almost bought the 7000 model with the SUV/Truck extensions last month, but we realized that we have to measure the frame points on all the vehicles to see if we need/want the SLX or XLS version (XLS is up to 66" between the lift points, I think SLX caps at 60") unfortunately many of the vehicles are packed in snow (and it's negative 16*F) so that's gonna have to wait until spring. If we had a higher shop I'd be happier with a 2 or 4 post lift, but we don't have the clearance for it


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

raylo32 said:


> The Vette, not so much.


I used to have a C5. Came the day to change my oil. My jack wasn't even close to fitting under there. Dang that thing was low. Hardest part of changing the oil was just getting the darn car in the air a little. Home made ramps for the front, and slim pump jack for the rear was the answer.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

For a data point the 7000 SLX fits my Tacoma 4x4 Access Cab Long Bed model. Might need the longer rail version XLS for a full size crew cab rig.



Mystriss said:


> This is the video that kinda "sold" my husband (and I) on the quickjack. Guy gets a big'ol pick-em-up truck lifted on the 5000SLX model and he pushes on the truck while it's locked in the full up position, no movement at all. I consider it safer than the method my husband's been using to get himself under the vehicles.
> 
> We almost bought the 7000 model with the SUV/Truck extensions last month, but we realized that we have to measure the frame points on all the vehicles to see if we need/want the SLX or XLS version (XLS is up to 66" between the lift points, I think SLX caps at 60") unfortunately many of the vehicles are packed in snow (and it's negative 16*F) so that's gonna have to wait until spring. If we had a higher shop I'd be happier with a 2 or 4 post lift, but we don't have the clearance for it


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

SPS-1 said:


> I used to have a C5. Came the day to change my oil. My jack wasn't even close to fitting under there. Dang that thing was low. Hardest part of changing the oil was just getting the darn car in the air a little. Home made ramps for the front, and slim pump jack for the rear was the answer.


I had to get some long Race Ramps to get my C5 up high enough for an oil change. It was either that or jacking up from each side a bit at a time.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Yes, all Vettes need "special" gear, whether it be Race Ramps, low cradle floor jacks, and flat platform jack stands... or a lift or Quick Jack. The Quick Jack is the killer app for me. My tiny garage has an 8' ceiling so no lift. The Quick Jack is perfect for most routine maintenance. It does block access from between the wheels so you can only get under from the front or back. But for engine oil, transmission oil, rear end gear oil changes and brake work/wheel rotation it is perfect. And the 2 rail units collapse and lean up on the wall out of the way.




huesmann said:


> I had to get some long Race Ramps to get my C5 up high enough for an oil change. It was either that or jacking up from each side a bit at a time.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

raylo32 said:


> 2016. It's blue.... and low... so no way to do anything underneath without some sort of ramps or lift.



Gor-Gee-Us. 



Love that color.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

I use a 3-ton jack and 3-ton rated jack stands with my truck.

When I had my '00 Silverado 2x4, it raised the truck adequately.

Now that I have a '15 Silverado 4x4, the jack does not raise it as much.

To help with this issue, I got a polyurethane floor jack pad which adds almost 2-inches to the jack height. 










It also protects the under engine plastic splash plate which goes over the front crossmember. 2-inches does not sound like much but it does help.

Safety is a priority for me. Whenever I jack up my vehicles, I always insure the parking brake is set (when lifting the front) and use solid rubber wheel chocks regardless of which the end is being raised.










These are available from Harbor Freight for $8 a piece.

As an added safety measure, I try to leave the jack in place whenever possible even though the vehicle is sitting on stands.


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## rcpaulsen (Oct 17, 2018)

I stopped using steel ramps many years ago after one collapsed under the front end of my 1974 Javelin (about 3,000 pounds). Thank God I hadn't gotten underneath yet.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

I have been using the plastic RhinoGear ramps with my heavy truck since 2011 with no problems at all. These have a GVWR of 16,000 lbs so capacity to spare. I bought the pair for $40 on Amazon. They also stand on end and so have a small footprint when being stored between use.

I put the truck in to park and have the emergency brake set and no worries about the truck rolling off the ramps. I gain 6.5 inches of working room under the truck and it helps a great deal when lubing the front suspension and steering components which I do every 3,000 miles.


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## CPAMAN (Dec 10, 2011)

I jack up the tire and slide wooden ramps under the tire and let down the jack.
The ramps are not that long so I can get under the vehicle easily and the wood will support the weight .

I tried Rhino ramps and as I tried to drive up the ramp, the ramp slipped and lodged itself under the vehicle. 

I don't drive up any ramps, I jack the car up, slide in the ramps and I am good to go


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## House Designer (Oct 4, 2019)

mark sr said:


> I wouldn't trust a cinder block as a jack stand!
> 
> 
> 2x12s are safe as long as you don't drive off of the edge. Those type of ramps aren't built like a typical ramp as they are laid flat each layer being shorter than the rest. A 6" tall ramp would be four 2x12s thick. IMO they are too heavy to use unless you have a dedicated space for them to always stay and be used.


An 8" CMU block should be suitable as a jack stand as long as the cores are oriented vertically, and a horizontal 2x10 is used on top to distribute the load across the entire block. Otherwise, I wouldn't trust it either.


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