# Removing drywall to add support behind wall



## Farmskis (Dec 29, 2014)

I am installing a tv on a wall and I need to mount off center of a stud. Since we are repainting the wall anyway I figured I would open up the wall and add solid structure to mount the tv to. What would you use between the two studs? (Ply or 2x4) How would you fasten to the studs since fastening over the top would not leave room to reapply the drywall? (I would assume possibly attaching on the ends so I am guessing I just need to open up wider than the width of the two studs to allow me to fasten through the studs into my new solid piece) when I put up the patch drywall do I need to tape all the seams and screws or is there a shortcut to level it all out for one little patch?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

unless you have some Danboard (a system of plywood and metal straps that is used for backing with metal studs) I would suggest some 2X material. You cut it so it fits between the studs with the side rail of the one stud lapping over the wood. You can face screw that and end screw the other end of the backer. You need to cut a relief in the 2X so the stud side rail is not smashed.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1, Lay out the area to be cut with a level and a square so you get a nice rectangular shaped hole to make it easier when patching.
The neater the cut the faster it is to repair.
I always use a 2 X 6, make it easier to hit then a narrow 2 X 4.
Only need to cut out between the studs.
3, 2-1/2" decking screws on each side at a steep angle in predrilled pilot holes in the 2 X 6.
Even better use A Kreg tool for a more accurate hole.
The board needs to be flush to the back side of the drywall.
Make sure there's no loose tape after cutting before repairing.
Yes the seams need to be taped, also going to need at least a 6" wide drywall knife.
Always thin layers of drywall compound. Applying it thicker is going to make a mess and may crack when it dries.
Should take three coats to get it perfect, do not sand and the first two coats, only knockoff the high spots with the knife.
General purpose compound will work.
Going to have to prime before painting.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

The only thing I would add to what Joe said....I'd go 2 stud bays...gives you more space for blocking....and since I'm OCD and anal....I'd use 2x12's....even more surface space.

And since you have it all opened up....run your new outlets up there so you don't have wires running down the wall.

One other option.....slap a chunk of 1/2" plywood up on the wall....frame it as it it was a picture....then attach the TV bracket to it. It's sort of like a built in unit....minus the unit.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

I agree with the 2x6 or larger. I would use a minimum of 4 - 3" deck screws toe-nailed into the studs. If you are really cautious use a 2x4 ledger under the 2x stock.

Even simpler is to upgrade your mounting hardware. If you are a good shopper you can find a mount that has double articulating arms and a 30" mounting base. On a 16" CC wall that ensures that you will hit at least 2 studs. Two studs and a wall anchor will hold a 65" TV with no problem.

I bought mine on Ebay for $50 including shipping.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yes there is hardware that will allow you to hit 2 studs no cutting no patching and theTV pretty well hides the hardware. If you go the other way the only thing I would add to Joe's advice is use 2 drywall knifes a 6" to apply the mud and a 12" for the last 2 coats. This will be a large butt joint so you need to feather it out as far as possible.


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## Farmskis (Dec 29, 2014)

Is the tape a mesh tape ? Or is it a solid tape? I have seen mesh tape used on patches and the solid used on big rooms.


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## Farmskis (Dec 29, 2014)

Ok I did a little research and I found that the mesh tape is used with the fast setting "hot mud" compound. The paper tape is used with the general compound. Thanks for the great info guys! The unfortunate thing is I have to do all of this to move the mount literally 3 inches to the side! 


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## ivanjay205 (Jun 8, 2014)

Just a basic question now knowing your layout... Most tv brackets have an offset options so you can hit the stud no matter what. Mine have me 22" of play more than enough for 16" on centers. You sure you cant just offset the bracket and hit an existing stud,
No mess, no patching, etc?

If not me personally you are already opening the wall i would go further and drill on the ends with screws through the studs. This way no risk of anything splitting on a "toe screw" and it letting loose. 

I personAlly like the mesh tape vs paper tape. Takes more compound to cover and feather it but I find a better joint. 


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## Farmskis (Dec 29, 2014)

The only offset I can find is about an inch either way. Since it a single arm mount it could be centered over the mounting stud when it is all the way extended. the shortest distance it can remain centered is up to about 13 inches extended. We intend to usually have it retracted most of the time so we want it centered when retracted vs when extended. 


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## ivanjay205 (Jun 8, 2014)

Farmskis said:


> The only offset I can find is about an inch either way. Since it a single arm mount it could be centered over the mounting stud when it is all the way extended. the shortest distance it can remain centered is up to about 13 inches extended. We intend to usually have it retracted most of the time so we want it centered when retracted vs when extended.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Take a look around. Mine is with an arm as well, not 13" it is shorter. But it has an offset bracket. Would ave you a lot of work.


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