# Must you secure XPS foam to basement walls?



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If you are framing it up soon thereafter, you don't need a ton of glue.

Just stick it to the wall and makes sure that you shim it tight against the framing once you finish out the framing portion of the project so there is some force applied to the foam to keep it tight to the wall.


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Thanks Eric!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Yep!

Take me to play Westfields and we will call it even.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

It's imperative to air-seal the concrete from the room air; http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743 (From one of our new members)!

Pages 8, 11, etc.; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems

Sill sealer under the p.t. bottom plate (air/thermal/capillary break), ADA the drywall, everything to keep that room air from the cold concrete: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach/

Gary


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Thanks Gary.

Off the subject a little bit, I plan on cutting in an interior weeping tile system against the footer. Should I use one of those dimpled membranes against the wall and then the XPS insulation or not even bother with the membrane?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Jeff,

I will renew my offer to take a look at it for you but I am pretty firmly convinced that you will be wasting your money if you do that. I think most of your issues are drainage and condensation related. Fix the gutters ant the wells and you will be fine.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

No, glue the f.b. directly to the concrete wall with vertical beads only, not to trap moisture. continuous bead along top edge, Enka (or similar) at concrete wall/new slab joint and under replaced area for drainage, Fig. 15; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems

Gary


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

GBR in WA said:


> No, glue the f.b. directly to the concrete wall with *vertical beads only*, not to trap moisture. continuous bead along top edge,


The underlined statement is in direct conflict with your first link. It states to place glue in a grid pattern to mitigate convective currents...


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

In post #6, Trucon01 added a different scenario, I changed-up and switch hit because the new slab drain is linked to the concrete wall for clear drainage. Horizontal glue beads would create ledges for the moisture to pocket and soak in to the foam board. Price you pay for draining there, a slight R-value reduction. Glad you read the links though, nice catch!

Gary


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