# Frame around pre-installed plumbing



## Mop in Hand (Feb 5, 2009)

Notching out 2x6's would be the way to go. Or frame it out with 2x4"s in front of the pipe and order a toilet that has 10" setback. I would not take this plumbing apart. If you decide to notch, you might as well extend your drain for the sink and place it where it goes while your at it.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You want the wall 12 1/2" from the center of the toilet pipe---12 from the finished surface of the wall-----

It might be simplest to remove the cross over vent piping--frame the wall--then drill and replace the pipe---

Don't be afraid to cut and replace the PVC---it's easy to work with and the parts are rather cheap--

10" toilets are usually a special order and only available in a limited selection---


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## diyer007 (6 mo ago)

My situation is worse. The 2 1/2 vertical pipe is only 5 inches from the foundation wall and 13 1/2 to the Center of toilet drain. So I can only frame it with 2x4, probably cut the wall into two sections and leave the vertical pipe in the middle. But the vertical pipe will not have 1 1/4 clearance from the stud surface. Will that fail to meet the code? (I’m thinking to add a metal piece to cover the pipe).

the pipe is 7 feet tall and has a horizontal section right below the window, I like to have a bit space around the window. I think above the T should be the vent, can the horizontal section be lowered to the middle of wall? (will keep it higher than the sink level).


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You can cheat the toilet space with a curb as long as it is lower than the tank. 








My flange was centered 12 inches from the framing and I have room for a 4" wide curb behind the bowl.


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## diyer007 (6 mo ago)

@Nealtw the idea of curb is brilliant!

If I reconnect the vertical pipe like you showed, I might have 2 options:

1) try to build 2x6 wall as the center of fringe is 17 3/4 away from the wall. I may need to slice out 1/4 to 3/8 width on 2x6 (hopefully the inspector won’t care about it 

2) build 2x4 wall that would give much more room to work with. if I reconnect with 2 inch pipe, it will work for 2x4 stud since I’m allowed to drill a hole up to 2.1 inch (60% of stud width) on non-load bearing wall.

But I’m confused with the size of my existing pipe. The bottom section is approx. 2 1/2 in outside diameter. Home Depot carries 2 inch pipe that has Actual outside diameter of 2 inches. Next one up is 3 inches. I’m not sure I can find the proper fitting to reconnect it.



https://www.homedepot.ca/product/lesso-2-in-abs-90-degree-sr-street-elbow-spg-x-hub/1000421138


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## jim_bee (Feb 23, 2021)

diyer007 said:


> But I’m confused with the size of my existing pipe. The bottom section is approx. 2 1/2 in outside diameter. Home Depot carries 2 inch pipe that has Actual outside diameter of 2 inches. Next one up is 3 inches. I’m not sure I can find the proper fitting to reconnect it.


I think HD goofed when they listed the specs on that pipe. 2" pipe is 2" *inside. *The outside diameter of 2" ABS pipe is 2.375" (2 and 3/8).


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jim_bee said:


> I think HD goofed when they listed the specs on that pipe. 2" pipe is 2" *inside. *The outside diameter of 2" ABS pipe is 2.375" (2 and 3/8).


The pipe might be thicker wall for underground, but that is just a guess.
That is not a lead bearing wall you are building and you can turn the studs on the flat if you want. 
The foundation is the load bearing wall.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I found this. I don't know code so I would just keep the 2" up to the vanity tee, then you really haven't changed anything.
ABS Schedule 40 Sizes & Dimensions –

Nominal Pipe SizeO.D.Average I.D.2″2.3752.0472-1/2″2.8752.4453″3.53.0423-1/2″43.521


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## jim_bee (Feb 23, 2021)

Yeah. The link to Home Depot says the 2" pipe has an outside diameter of 2". You have to take the big box store specs with a grain of salt.


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## diyer007 (6 mo ago)

jim_bee said:


> Yeah. The link to Home Depot says the 2" pipe has an outside diameter of 2". You have to take the big box store specs with a grain of salt.


Yes you are right, the spec on their website is messed up. I just picked up couple pipe from HD:
1 1/2 pipe OD is 1.9 inch
2 pipe OD is 2.375 inch (not 2 inch)

In my basement, the bottom section is actually a 2 inch pipe (I measured as 2 1/2 but it should be 2 3/8). other two sections connected to the T are actually 1 1/2. I am going to extend the 1 1/2 to the sink and reconnect it to the vent pipe like @Nealtw mentioned. The 1 1/2 pipe can go through 2x4 without any trouble. I will see how to deal with the 2 inch section. it's smaller now, in the worst case scenario I will build a 2x6 curb to hide it inside the wall. will share the result later. thank you all.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

diyer007 said:


> Yes you are right, the spec on their website is messed up. I just picked up couple pipe from HD:
> 1 1/2 pipe OD is 1.9 inch
> 2 pipe OD is 2.375 inch (not 2 inch)
> 
> In my basement, the bottom section is actually a 2 inch pipe (I measured as 2 1/2 but it should be 2 3/8). other two sections connected to the T are actually 1 1/2. I am going to extend the 1 1/2 to the sink and reconnect it to the vent pipe like @Nealtw mentioned. The 1 1/2 pipe can go through 2x4 without any trouble. I will see how to deal with the 2 inch section. it's smaller now, in the worst case scenario I will build a 2x6 curb to hide it inside the wall. will share the result later. thank you all.


If you have to run water in that out side wall, insulate the cold, against condensation in case you don't do well sealing that wall from house air.


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## diyer007 (6 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you have to run water in that out side wall, insulate the cold, against condensation in case you don't do well sealing that wall from house air.


Thank you for the remainder. Most likely I need to remove the existing insulation so I have enough space to build the stud Our code requires new insulation to be R20 and up to 8 inches from the ground (not sure why). 

I mocked up the framing, the 2 inch pipe will be in two walls sections, the pipe is almost close to the edge of stud. the worst case scenario, if the code requires, I can add a piece of metal or wood to cover the pipe. that is 19 inches should be below the toilet tank.








I prefer to build the sink at the other side of wall so I can avoid the overhead ductwork beside the toilet. but I have to make 90 degree turn in the wall , which is another obstacle


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

diyer007 said:


> Thank you for the remainder. Most likely I need to remove the existing insulation so I have enough space to build the stud Our code requires new insulation to be R20 and up to 8 inches from the ground (not sure why).
> 
> I mocked up the framing, the 2 inch pipe will be in two walls sections, the pipe is almost close to the edge of stud. the worst case scenario, if the code requires, I can add a piece of metal or wood to cover the pipe. that is 19 inches should be below the toilet tank.
> View attachment 707205
> ...


What will go in the 30x 32 space?
How high is the top of the concrete? 
How deep is the frost line where you are?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would settle on a 10" toilet to wall 
Turn the pipe a little to move it close to the concrete 
Build both of these walls 2x6, add a clean out at the corner with a tee so it can hide behind the wall


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

A street 22 1/2 elbow should get you closer to the concrete .


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## diyer007 (6 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> What will go in the 30x 32 space?
> How high is the top of the concrete?
> How deep is the frost line where you are?


The space at the right to the toilet is supposed to be a sink, but the lowest point from the duct is 73 inches to the ground. Other duct is 82 inches high. I will lose 2-3 inches after the framing (so I will also be having challenge to find a glass shower door as the standard seems to be 80 inches everywhere). Too much going on in this bathroom area.

The frost line in my area is 48 inches.

if I need to vent the drain at the other side, I will have problem to add a vent pipe. Now I have to debate whether I should move the sink location 🙄


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

diyer007 said:


> The space at the right to the toilet is supposed to be a sink, but the lowest point from the duct is 73 inches to the ground. Other duct is 82 inches high. I will lose 2-3 inches after the framing (so I will also be having challenge to find a glass shower door as the standard seems to be 80 inches everywhere). Too much going on in this bathroom area.
> 
> The frost line in my area is 48 inches.
> 
> if I need to vent the drain at the other side, I will have problem to add a vent pipe. Now I have to debate whether I should move the sink location 🙄


Move in closer the vanity can be 21" from the bowl of the toilet and the drain can come in the side of the vanity.


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## diyer007 (6 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Move in closer the vanity can be 21" from the bowl of the toilet and the drain can come in the side of the vanity.
> View attachment 707229


Oh yeah! Make a wider vanity and hide all the pipe underneath! Brilliant, Thank you!


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