# Priming bare wood?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That's the same primer to use for everthing you mentioned.
It would have been better to sand and prime before the new wood went up because new wood have tiny lines across the boards that will not go away with primer and pant. There called mill marks from the planner.
But you can still run a random obital sander over it with 100 or 120 grit paper, wipe it down to get rid of dust.
Primer will never cover flaws, but it will make then stand out. Once you have primed look lover every thing and fix it, fill it whatever, sand it out, reprime, then paint.
On new wood and new sheetrock I prime twice, that way no spots are missed and the paint will come out more even.
Anytime your paint a darker color, dark, blues, red, ect. have the primer tinted to make it gray or you will be painting about 7 coats to get it to look good.


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## [email protected] (Jul 30, 2008)

If I remember right, Aura is self priming. I know for sure Regal Select is self priming and it's a Benjamin Moore product. I just painted a Master Bath that had a door removed so part of the casing was rehabbed with new wood trim. After caulk and hole filling prep ect. I gave it one coat of Regal Select, sanded again, then finalized it with a second coat. It turned out beautiful.

Here is that job:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqM5hK9HkrA


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

It depends on the wood. If it's like pine with a lot of knots, you may need something like kilz or the knots will always bleed through.


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Joe are you suggestion that the Zinnser that I'm using is good for bare wood? Not sure whether you meant the Zinnser or "primer with good enamel holdout", whatever that was that Jsheridan mentioned.

Thanks for the tips on prepping the wood. Very much appreciated and I will definitely be following your advice.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Iron, my rec would be to spot prime any knots or tannin stains, if any, with BIN or any basic shellac. Kilz would be inferior to shellac. Prime before you do any caulking or putty work. I like lightweight vinyl spackle, it has a consistency like dry shave cream. Press it in to fastener holes, overfill it, allow it to dry and then do your full after prime sanding and level the putty holes at the same time. Far better than painter's putty. Then caulk. 
Jason, a lot of guys are using Aura and Select no prime over bare substrates. However, if you call BM product hotline, 888-236-6667, they'll tell you no. I asked, not because I was looking to, but to get beyond the hype. "Absolutely not", in fact, is what I was told. Around here, be prepared to defend your assertion.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

123 is ok for priming wood, but the type of primer that is just for that is called underbody- it has the holdout- meaning that the top coats of finish will come to full sheen because the primer isn't pulling some of that away- and it should have a little sand so that it is super smooth to get the enamel finish. The best thing I know of for this is BM's oil Enamel Underbody.
But because we are all getting away from oils, the best waterborne in my experience is Z's Prime Coat 2 ( believe it or not to the pros!) I have only found it at Menards.
Then 123, or a whole bunch of other ones that don't sand so much but seal nice.
Aura Satin is my usual trim paint- add just a tiny splash of water to get it to flow nice. Bit of a learning curve- it sets up fast.
If knots are a problem- BIN is the best- but it dries really fast.
Fill holes and caulk after prime- reprime if you use a filler for holes.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Brush, I"ve been using the 123 lately and really like it. (hadn't really used it much before, and had to give it a good try after all the positive reports here) It appears to have great enamel holdout and I find that latex enamels slide very nicely over it. Do you not like it for that?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Its fine- just no sand ( which is not always a bad thing) and very little build.
I love it for repaints/ conversion over an oil finish.


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## HD_Newf (Oct 8, 2010)

Hey Ironlight.

I think that the reason you are getting so many opinions on this is simply that a number of methods will often work.

Bullseye 1-2-3 is good stuff. It is actually a metal primer, but works well with many other surfaces. It will _probably_ work just fine. Is it the best thing to use? Well no. As you already know, an oil based primer would be better both for raw wood, hiding and general adhesion. So would BIN shellac.

Using a base primer of either type would be better than just using any "primer included" paint when so many surfaces are trying to be blended. I agree with jsheridan on this one. You will get the same answer from Behr reps on their all-in-one product as well. 

I hope this helps,
HDNewf.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Thats the first time I have heard anyone say that 123 is PRIMARILY a metal primer. I know it does that, and well- but it is an all purpose primer sealer.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Brushjockey said:


> Thats the first time I have heard anyone say that 123 is PRIMARILY a metal primer. I know it does that, and well- but it is an all purpose primer sealer.


 news to me:yes:


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## HD_Newf (Oct 8, 2010)

Brushjockey said:


> Thats the first time I have heard anyone say that 123 is PRIMARILY a metal primer. I know it does that, and well- but it is an all purpose primer sealer.


OK, fair enough. It primes many things well.

I took this quote: " It is specially formulated for use on ferrous and non-ferrous metals, making it ideal for repainting aluminum siding." and changed the meaning. :surrender: I use it for clean metal because I too avoid oil based coatings when I can.

My main point is that the OP will likely use 1-2-3 and that while not the "expert" solution it should not only work out fine, but better than just 2 or more coats of "all in one" paint of any brand.


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

OK I was wrong...the primer I'm using is in fact Primecoat 2. I usually get 123 and I'm not sure why I picked up the Primecoat 2. FYI I got a 5 gal bucket of it at HD for @ $56.

I already sort of mindlessly caulked and filled with vinyl. I'll prime and go over it again if anything pops out which I'm sure it will.

I may in fact go with the oil primer for one area...it's a half-height wall with a board top that leads into an arts and crafts-ish column. It's an eye catcher and is going to get hit with light from both rooms it divides. I put a lot of work into building the damn thing and I would hate to screw up the final result just to avoid some inconvenience.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

What kind of wood did you use?
Primecoat2 is great for poplar and pretty good on pine.


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