# Jennair Pro Style Range - No Power



## tomh87 (Jul 24, 2013)

Our Jennair is a gas stove and electric oven, purchased in 2004. We were using the stove last night when, all of a sudden, the range began beeping for about 30 seconds, and then stopped. Now the electric parts of the range are unworkable -- the oven, the lights and display, and the gas ignition spark. Also, the oven door is firmly locked and won't open. 

I reset the circuit breaker for the house but this had no effect. All other electric outlets and appliances are working fine, so the problem appears to be within the range itself.

Did we blow a fuse or trip an internal circuit breaker? How could this have happened when the oven was not on? 

Details on the range:


Jennair 30" Pro Style, Dual Fuel, Slide-In Range
Gas burners, electric oven
Downdraft exhaust
Model: JDS9860AAP
I usually try and fix simple electrical problems such as blown fuses or simple component replacements, and I'm hoping this might be one of those situations. 

Any guidance would be much appreciated.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You reset the main breaker but did you reset the one for the stove. All the way off then back on.
http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairH...627-/Jenn-Air-Oven-won-t-turn-off--JDS9860AAP


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## tomh87 (Jul 24, 2013)

joecaption said:


> You reset the main breaker but did you reset the one for the stove. All the way off then back on.


Please tell me where breaker on the range is located. The user manual contains no such information as best as I can tell.

And, the fact that the breaker tripped, does this mean I have a slowly failing circuit board somewhere?


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Joe is not saying there's a breaker in the range. 

You said you reset the main breaker for the house. Did you also reset the circuit breaker for the range's circuit?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Should be a double pole breaker with "stove" right on the label board.


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## tomh87 (Jul 24, 2013)

joecaption said:


> Should be a double pole breaker with "stove" right on the label board.


Got it. I turned off and on the kitchen breaker. I also turned on and off the only double-pole breaker on my board -- is that by definition for the range?


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

tomh87 said:


> Got it. I turned off and on the kitchen breaker. I also turned on and off the only double-pole breaker on my board -- is that by definition for the range?


The double pole should be for your range unless you have central air conditioning and/or an electric dryer.

Did the breaker solve your issue?


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

You didn't get put in self clean mode did it?


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## tomh87 (Jul 24, 2013)

PoleCat said:


> You didn't get put in self clean mode did it?





djlandkpl said:


> Did the breaker solve your issue?


Nope -- self-clean mode did not prompt this problem.

Redid the double-pole breaker a second time -- didn't help. 

Also, note the peculiarity of the problem -- the over door is locked tight. "Power off" somehow mechanically locked the door.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Sounds like it's time for a service call or you could just change the control board. I can't be sure it is the board. It's possible, but unlikely that the board is fine but the electrical circuit feeding the oven is not sending power. If you have a voltmeter and are comfortable around 240v, you could test it yourself to rule it out.


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## tomh87 (Jul 24, 2013)

djlandkpl said:


> Sounds like it's time for a service call or you could just change the control board. I can't be sure it is the board. It's possible, but unlikely that the board is fine but the electrical circuit feeding the oven is not sending power. If you have a voltmeter and are comfortable around 240v, you could test it yourself to rule it out.


OK, some simple questions. Understand please that I had no idea there was a separate 240 V circuit for the oven. Electrical was never my strong suit, despite the fact I'm an engineer - the aero version.

I have a voltmeter; where do I test for 240? Do I slide the oven out and do it at the wall circuit? Or is there another way? 

Is there a fuse or other simple component that might have failed, that I can look for?

Or, if I ascertain that the 240 wall socket has power, then I have to punt and request a service call?

Can a layman like myself replace the control board? Where do I find it, and where are the instructions for replacement?

Thx -- all this is extremely helpful.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

tomh87 said:


> OK, some simple questions. Understand please that I had no idea there was a separate 240 V circuit for the oven. Electrical was never my strong suit, despite the fact I'm an engineer - the aero version.
> 
> I have a voltmeter; where do I test for 240? Do I slide the oven out and do it at the wall circuit? Or is there another way?
> 
> ...


You want to test at the outlet behind the stove. Probe both hot legs (vertical slots) at the same time, one probe in each slot. You should have 240 volts. 

I'm not an appliance pro so I don't know if your model has internal fuses.

This link will show you the control board. It's the panel that you touch to use the oven. 
http://www.repairclinic.com/Jenn-Ai...AAP-ID-563627-Circuit-Board-Timer-Parts?z=100

The parts are pricey and rather than change parts for the sake of changing parts, I would do a service call.


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## tomh87 (Jul 24, 2013)

djlandkpl said:


> You want to test at the outlet behind the stove. Probe both hot legs (vertical slots) at the same time, one probe in each slot. You should have 240 volts.
> 
> I'm not an appliance pro so I don't know if your model has internal fuses.
> 
> ...


Dan, it appears the problem was simpler than we thought. I confirmed that the 240 V supply was fine, so I pulled the unit out, removed the small back panel, and found that two of the wires from the 240V supply to the terminal were burned out. I assume this HAS to be the problem. See photo below.










Any further advice? Why would this happen in the first place? Was it anything we did?


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Everytime I have seen this sort of thing on resistive heat wiring it was from the connection being dirty or loose. As you can see this makes for a very hot point.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Oh, yeah, buy a new pigtail that is rated for your appliance and matchs your wall outlet. The factory wiring looks OK so clean it all up REAL good and attach your new supply wire using CLEAN fingers. Torque em in nice and tight.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

I would suspect that's the problem. +1 on PoleCat's advice.


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