# dishwasher electrical wire



## feb (Aug 8, 2005)

I bought a new dishwasher and ofcourse the electrical wire did not come with it. I went to lowes and bought an electrical wire for home appliances. The wire has no white and black wires - - only two blacks and a green. How do I know which wire to connect to the black and which to the white?

FEB


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## 'Andyman (Sep 5, 2005)

*Dishwasher wire*

Feb,

The wire you bought will work providing it is the right gauge. However, I would go and buy some NMD7-2 12 gauge (black, white and bare ground) even it it were just to conform to code.


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## feb (Aug 8, 2005)

*dishwasher wire*

I don't have it in front of me but I think it is a 15 amp 12ga for appliance replacement. One of the wire is rough and one is smooth.


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## MinConst (Nov 23, 2004)

feb has a good point. Wire is generally marked in some way to be able to tell it apart even if the insulation is the same color. A stripe, rouch and smooth slight color change in the wire itself. Something. Look closely. And as 'Andy said be sure the sire is the right guage for your appliance.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Does this wire come with a plug? Did you have a dishwasher before? If you had one before, the wire should still be there. If so, then you just connect the wires to the junction box in front of the dishwasher. If you did not have one before, then you will need a new circuit from your panel to hook up the dishwasher. It sounds like the cord you have is a replacement cord.


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## feb (Aug 8, 2005)

*dishwasher electrical*

I gave my old dishwasher to my son. I let him have it with all the hookups - wire included. the new wire has a plug as did the old one. It is not hardwired, it is a plugin to the wall.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Does the plug match the outlet? One of the black wires should have a stripe on it. Are you located in the US?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

After rereading your post and looking at lowes I see what you may have purchased. If it is like you say, one side smooth and one side ribbed, then the ribbed side will go to the white wire, and the smooth side will go to the black wire The cord is described as being only 3 feet long, and is used for a disposal. Is this the cord youo bought?


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## feb (Aug 8, 2005)

*dishwasher electrical*

I saw what you were looking at and mine looks to be the same ( I am not at home at the moment) except that mine is 6' long. The guy in the appliance dept told me that was the right cord and it didn't matter which wire went to the black (because it is alternating current )as long as the ground was hooked up. Is that correct?

feb


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## K2eoj (Aug 14, 2005)

feb said:


> I saw what you were looking at and mine looks to be the same ( I am not at home at the moment) except that mine is 6' long. The guy in the appliance dept told me that was the right cord and it didn't matter which wire went to the black (because it is alternating current )as long as the ground was hooked up. Is that correct?
> 
> feb


No. Go smack that guy.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

I agree with hammer... Go slap the guy. If you listen to him, you can get yourself hurt!!!!


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## feb (Aug 8, 2005)

*dishwasher cord*

Ok, the cord I bought for the dishwasher is as follows:

13A
125V
1625W

This cord is about 3' short because with the new cabinets, the dishwasher had to be moved over 2ft. I bought an extension cord with the following:

15A
125V
1875W

Is this ok to run it like that. I can't find a replacement cord that is the length I need. I would have to buy an extension cord and cut it the length I need.

Thanks,
Feb.


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## Mike Swearingen (Mar 15, 2005)

Do NOT use an extension cord.
A dishwasher requires a dedicated circuit. Codes usually require a 15 amp breaker with 14/2-with-ground wiring, but I always recommend going with a 20 amp circuit and 12/2 in case anyone ever wanted to install a heavy-duty dw, if anyone is wiring from scratch.
As you've already been advised, if it's on a 15 amp breaker, get either an adequate length of at least 14/2wg or better yet, 12/2wg (black=hot, white=neutral, bare/green=ground) and wire it properly with a solid wire from the dw to the plug.
Good Luck!
Mike


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## shaneonl (Apr 10, 2008)

can someone confirm the ribbed side of the appliance cord goes to the white wire


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## micromind (Mar 9, 2008)

On any flat cord, 2 or 3 wire, the ribbed side is always the neutral. 

On a recpacle, the larger slot is always neutral. If it's installed with the ground pin down, the neutral is on the left. Ground up, it's on the right. Now, hold the cord like it's about to be plugged in, you'll notice the ribbed side is on the neutral side.

On a 2 wire cord, you'll notice the ribbed side is on same side as the thicker prong. It can only be inserted into a recpacle one way; with the ribbed side in the neutral slot. 

Rob


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## Gencon (Apr 10, 2008)

You can always do a continuity test to find which prong goes to what wire.

However, I'm with Mike.

The old dishwasher was a plug in model( unless it was modified too). This model is designed to be hard wired in, as most are. It should be on its own 15Amp circuit minimum, with nothing else on the circuit.
The dishwasher is a permanently installed appliance and should be permanently connected.

If you insist on using a plug, the outlet must be accessable and cannot be in a cabinet. Most jurisdictions only allow an outlet in a cabinet if its a dedicated circuit for a microwave oven.


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## NAIL (Feb 24, 2008)

By moving it over 2 feet, is there a cabinet between the dishwasher and receptacle?


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## NAIL (Feb 24, 2008)

The old dishwasher was a plug in model( unless it was modified too). This model is designed to be hard wired in, as most are. It should be on its own 15Amp circuit minimum, with nothing else on the circuit.
The dishwasher is a permanently installed appliance and should be permanently connected.

If you insist on using a plug, the outlet must be accessable and cannot be in a cabinet. Most jurisdictions only allow an outlet in a cabinet if its a dedicated circuit for a microwave oven.[/quote]


Appliances need disconnecting means, which is why you would install a receptacle under the sink with 2 15amp circuits and a 2-pole breaker. The receptacle is allowed to be in the cabinet next to the dishwasher. 

The cord and plug represents a disconnecting means.

If you hard wire the dishwasher you must install a breaker lock.


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## Silk (Feb 8, 2008)

Mike Swearingen said:


> A dishwasher requires a dedicated circuit.
> Mike


 

No it doesn't, you will not find that requirement anywhere in the NEC. Maybe you have local codes that require it.


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## hpp58 (Feb 28, 2008)

It looks like the receptacle should be moved to be behind or next to the dishwasher, code restricts the length of the coard to a max of 4 ft (from the face of the plug to the edge of the dishwasher).
Or hardwire it.


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## Gencon (Apr 10, 2008)

NAIL said:


> The old dishwasher was a plug in model( unless it was modified too). This model is designed to be hard wired in, as most are. It should be on its own 15Amp circuit minimum, with nothing else on the circuit.
> The dishwasher is a permanently installed appliance and should be permanently connected.
> 
> If you insist on using a plug, the outlet must be accessable and cannot be in a cabinet. Most jurisdictions only allow an outlet in a cabinet if its a dedicated circuit for a microwave oven.


 
Appliances need disconnecting means, which is why you would install a receptacle under the sink with 2 15amp circuits and a 2-pole breaker. The receptacle is allowed to be in the cabinet next to the dishwasher. 

The cord and plug represents a disconnecting means.

If you hard wire the dishwasher you must install a breaker lock.[/quote]


I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected. The only other thing I can think of right now are electric water heaters. Mine has no other disconnect other than the breaker. I have never seen a disconnect for a dishwasher.

Electric hand dryers,and baseboard heaters have no secondary disconnect either.

Maybe this is another regional thing.


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

Wow guys, the OP must be ready to give up here. There is a lot of wrong info in this thread. Maybe some are local codes, but some is just pretty far out.

422.16 b 2 is a pretty good place to start. I suggest keeping local and state codes out of it unless we know where the OP is and are familiar with HIS local requirements. JMHO.


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## hpp58 (Feb 28, 2008)

Thats what I looked at.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

jrclen said:


> Wow guys, the OP must be ready to give up here. There is a lot of wrong info in this thread. Maybe some are local codes, but some is just pretty far out.
> 
> 422.16 b 2 is a pretty good place to start. I suggest keeping local and state codes out of it unless we know where the OP is and are familiar with HIS local requirements. JMHO.



The info being givin out is pretty bad... I dont even want to comment. I would just scratch this thread and start over....:no:


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## 220/221 (Oct 9, 2007)

> can someone confirm the ribbed side of the appliance cord goes to the white wire


The "identified conductor" is the neutral (white).

Get yourself a 6' cord. They make them and I'm certain they stock them.


In AZ we run a 20 amp circuit for the DW/Disp. 1/2 switched outlet under the sink, 3' pigtail on disposal, 6' pigtail on DW. Always have, probably always will.


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## NAIL (Feb 24, 2008)

Gencon said:


> Appliances need disconnecting means, which is why you would install a receptacle under the sink with 2 15amp circuits and a 2-pole breaker. The receptacle is allowed to be in the cabinet next to the dishwasher.
> 
> The cord and plug represents a disconnecting means.
> 
> If you hard wire the dishwasher you must install a breaker lock.


 
I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected. The only other thing I can think of right now are electric water heaters. Mine has no other disconnect other than the breaker. I have never seen a disconnect for a dishwasher.

Electric hand dryers,and baseboard heaters have no secondary disconnect either.

Maybe this is another regional thing.[/quote]


I was referring to any region using the NEC 


422.16(B)(1)
422.31
422.33

If I forgot other references I sure it's in the area.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

NAIL said:


> I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected.
> 
> 
> You need to read 422.32,
> ...


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## NAIL (Feb 24, 2008)

chris75 said:


> NAIL said:
> 
> 
> > I disagree with the breaker lock, and the means of diconnect. As long as there is a breaker, it can be disconnected.
> ...


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## HouseHelper (Mar 20, 2007)

jrclen said:


> Wow guys, the OP must be ready to give up here. There is a lot of wrong info in this thread. Maybe some are local codes, but some is just pretty far out.


The OP is long gone. This thread started in Nov of *05*!


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

NAIL said:


> chris75 said:
> 
> 
> > I guess the code is national the interpretation is regional. In Minnesota the residential dishwashers are primarily cord and plug.* And when they are not, breaker locks are installed.*
> ...


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## Gencon (Apr 10, 2008)

Its amazing how these things differ, yet all are acceptable.
Around here, Southern Ontario, If the DW comes without a cord it gets hardwired to a dedicated 15A circuit. Most generic brands come like this.
Higher end brands like Bosch or Miele, come with cords and a dedicated 15A circuit is required to an outlet in the adjacent cabinet.
Standard breakers can be used in either case.


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

HouseHelper said:


> The OP is long gone. This thread started in Nov of *05*!


How about that. That is funny. Thanks for pointing that out. I was feeling sorry for him. :laughing:


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