# Water Heater Connectors... Tape & Sealant?



## Kory Beam (Nov 15, 2014)

Hi all! New electric water heater has been installed, and the only thing left to do is connect the tank to the water lines. I bought corrugated stainless connectors.

When hooking up the water heater connectors from the water lines to the tank, should I be using a few wraps of teflon tape on male threads of the copper fittings and also the dielectic fittings of the water heater? I see that some guys are using tape AND thread sealant over the teflon tape. I do have tape and some RectorSeal 5. So.... Is it a good idea to use both teflon tape and a little thread sealant? Just use tape? Use neither? 

Appreciate any info! Thank you!


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

There are times when I do use both as you mentioned. However, in this case it's really not needed as most have washers. You can put a few wraps of tape around the threads and snug it down if you want to. Do not over tighten. Just a suggestion.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

The seal is the hose type washer that came with the connector.


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## Kory Beam (Nov 15, 2014)

Thank you, gentleman. I figured that the washers provided the seal... didn't really see having to apply both tape and sealant, but I came across forum threads where some recommended using both tape and sealant to make these connections. In my case, all copper piping/fittings in the cabin are new work (complete repipe).


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

For those fittings that don't depend on the standard pipe thread taper to seal I lubricate the threads only. Most don't because of a time factor but an old man once told me _" sometimes good things take a little longer "._


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## Kory Beam (Nov 15, 2014)

If I could ask one more related question... 

Pressure relief valve discharge piping.
The water heater is located on the exterior of the cabin in its own enclosure (outside off back of cabin).
It is the existing enclosure on its own cement pad. Not same interior floor level of the cabin. It's a small enclosure... so regarding the pressure relief discharge pipe:

1) Must the discharge pipe terminate to a drain or its own bucket/pan INSIDE of the water heater enclosure? The original heater had a discharge pipe that exited to the outside of the enclosure,through the side, ran down the exterior of the enclosure (insulated) and terminated about 5-6 inches from the outside ground (french drain/gravel at the back side of the home). 

I believe that code states that pressure relief valve piping must not discharge into a water heater pan. I did not use a pan inside of the enclosure, as it is not inside of the home. Should I have used a pan? Am I good just piping the pressure relief valve discharge pipe to the exterior of the enclosure, as it originally did?

Here is a pic of the interior of the enclosure:


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Depending on your local codes, etc.,The way the original water heater pressure relief valve was piped sounds right .

Please wait for the plumbers to respond for verification. Thanks


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Wow your ready for the next nuke...


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Nice job on the water heater install Kory. :thumbsup: I see your location is in the s. cal. mountains. It looks like it will withstand the big one. :smile:


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I believe you plumb under a revised UPC--
Which usually means a pan on wood floors is required,
T&P is to be between 6" and 24" above grade if piped to the exterior- same goes for the pan drain
WH relief line must be material approved for HW (copper, CPVC, galv)

BTW- nice job!


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Suggestion: replace that plastic drain valve with a full port ball valve and a hose adapter.


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## Kory Beam (Nov 15, 2014)

Nice suggestion, rjniles! If I replace the plastic drain valve, would I have to insert a dielectric nipple into the opening... or would any brass or galvanized nipple suffice?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Brass nipple. Or 3/4" copper with male adapter both ends. Dielectric not necessary.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Kory Beam said:


> Nice suggestion, rjniles! If I replace the plastic drain valve, would I have to insert a dielectric nipple into the opening... or would any brass or galvanized nipple suffice?


Do the same as the other. You can get Quick Connects to hook a hose up to the valve. Just leave the hose that you will use, hanging on the wall.

As for the pan. The Plastic pans can crack over time, tin ones can rust. You could probably get a Fiberglass pan to place the unit over, in case of a leak. Just make sure that the lines are not tied together for the pan drain and T&P valve. Maybe use different colored Pex line for marking which one is for what.

I would also put a moisture alert sensor in that cubby, so that when you are in the house and something happens, you will find out quicker, then not knowing until you lose water pressure and go outside with a flood of water out of that closet.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Pex is not approved material for T&P lines per UPC


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