# Do it yourself granite countertops



## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

if you have the tools you can do it. Need something to hold the seams together until the epoxy sets. Maybe you can rent a vacuum clamp needed. The sink can be cut out with a 4" grinder (inside cuts) and a 5" saw both with diamond blades. I would not go with the thinner granite.


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

The thicker granite will cost me $800 more . Will the thinner one crack after it is down or is moving it before it is dowm the problem. Clamp the seam I am still not to sure about how to to that. I was thinking of two suckion cups that are one handle like the ones to help with moveing glass.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

mostly be careful with handling. And what is done for the edges with thin materials? Those clamps will work, but two are not enough. Use at least four. You want a tight seam evenly held in place.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Every kitchen I have ever been in people sit on the counter tops
I wouldn't want thin granite for that reason
2 cm = a little over 3/4"

The granite I just installed is 1 1/4" thick


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

I have been seeing this a lot lately, the 1/2" thick stone. I was surprised thinking it would crack, but further investigating they lay it on top of 3/4" plywood. But still I prefer the thicker stone as long as the floor will support it. a center Island top that is. BOB.


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

The installation instructions I have from the company that sell the 1/2" granite , is to use 3/4 MDF for decking. It sayed that MDF is the preferred material in that it lays flat and to use L brackets to give extra support in the dishwasher area.Now about leveling the stone by using countertop laminate shims or small pieces of foam. Then epoxy glue dots 18 inches apart. Does any of that sound right.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

I Don't want to say the manufacture is correct or wrong. But MDF would be better then ply wood, as its much more smoother and flatter then plywood. the only problem I have with it ,is it does not hold up to water. and with a surface mount sink you have to be careful to make sure its sealed, caulk correctly.
Are they telling you to shim the MDF, or to shim the stone to the MDF? 
I would shim the MDF and check it with some good straight edges, then epoxy the stone down to the MDF as they suggested. and make sure you off set the seam in the MDF from the seem in the stone. :thumbsup: BOB


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

MDF stays flat if you buy quality MDF.. the stuff at home centers is poor quality. Order from a plywood vendor. Or even use MDO.. I has the strength of plywood, will stay flat like MDF and is water resistant and the same surface as MDF.... Best thing to use for this purpose.


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

I will look into where I can buy MDO. Now about clamping the seam while the glue is drying.What is the best glue for holding down the stone. My instructions say Laticrete 310 epoxy , liquid nails , slear silisone or PL construction glue.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

The epoxy is the strongest but all will work. Epoxy has the lower working time but you do not need much time. Dry set everything and be sure your seams are ready to go. Set the epoxy in the seams after taping the top edges of each seam. Have the clamps ready to go. Then glue the top of the MDO and set the stone.


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## loki791 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Radon in Granite Countertops*

Before deciding on granite, check out this article in the New York Times about the poisonous radon gas that can be emitted from granite countertops. January was designated National Radon Month by the EPA, which has stated that you need to "fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher". You can test your countertop for radon (and your entire home, namely the basement, where exposure to granitic rock in the topsoil can make the radon level high) using home kits, but these kits are not failsafe. So I would recommend getting a home inspector in there to test your countertop and basement. Radon is clear and odorless and is a carcinogenic substance. I have a granite countertop and I'm now looking to replace it with a sustainable wood. Good luck.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

loki791 said:


> Before deciding on granite, check out this article in the New York Times about the poisonous radon gas that can be emitted from granite countertops. January was designated National Radon Month by the EPA, which has stated that you need to "fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher". You can test your countertop for radon (and your entire home, namely the basement, where exposure to granitic rock in the topsoil can make the radon level high) using home kits, but these kits are not failsafe. So I would recommend getting a home inspector in there to test your countertop and basement. Radon is clear and odorless and is a carcinogenic substance. I have a granite countertop and I'm now looking to replace it with a sustainable wood. Good luck.


Have you tested it?
Have you tested your house?


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## loki791 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Granite Countertop - Radon*



Scuba_Dave said:


> Have you tested it?
> Have you tested your house?


No I haven't - I am doing research on it now. Either will buy a radon home testing kit or get a profession home inspector. The take home kits are the cheaper way to go, but I've read that they can be flaky.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

reliable reports also state that the amount of radon possible to be released from a slab of granite in your home cannot hurt you.


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## <*(((>< (Mar 6, 2009)

Bob Mariani said:


> if you have the tools you can do it. Need something to hold the seams together until the epoxy sets. Maybe you can rent a vacuum clamp needed. The sink can be cut out with a 4" grinder (inside cuts) and a 5" saw both with diamond blades. I would not go with the thinner granite.


To keep the seams together while the epoxy sets just cut some pieces of plywood 3/8"x3/8"x4" and hot glue two plywood pieces across the seam from each other (do this before you put the epoxy on) and use spring clamps to pull the seam together tights the epoxy dries. You might need to use several pairs of plywood pieces glued down, depending on the length of seam. After the epoxy has set remove the spring clamps and take a hammer lying on the counter and tap the sides of the plywood to break the glues bond on the granite. Remove any glue residue with a razor blade.


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

just hot glue, will it come off . i was thinking of pushing it together and clamping it from the bottom with C-clamps close to the seams . I was also thinking of using two suction cups and then try to clamp.


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## <*(((>< (Mar 6, 2009)

dalemercier said:


> just hot glue, will it come off . i was thinking of pushing it together and clamping it from the bottom with C-clamps close to the seams . I was also thinking of using two suction cups and then try to clamp.


Yes, the hot glue will come of with a sharp tap with a hammer on the side of the piece of wood. You run the strips of wood parallel to the seam, within clamping distance of some spring clamps. Just make sure the hot glue has setup before trying to clamp, it doesn't take very long as the granite cools the glue pretty quick. 

You don't need a tremendous amount of force to keep the joint together until the epoxy cures in the seam. One should pull the seam together with ones hands while someone else applies the spring clamps, it just needs to be static pressure, you aren't pulling the seams together with the clamps, simply keeping the seam together.

Either way, your clamping method underneath would work as well, but what do you plan on attaching your c-clamps to that is attached to the granite?


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

I think i will try the hot glue idea . Now to the the underlay , do we use MDF OR MDO . Rona has MDO for $75 3/4sheet or MDF for $35 3/4sheet.
The MDO ply is only on one side not two . The MDF could only get wet at the sink . If I paint it around the sink cutout and i am useing top mountsink. OR pay more for the MDO sheet is it the much better and will it be still flat if is only one sided . What do other use it for other than sign's and boats.


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

What is the best Diamond blade to use for my angle grinder. Will cut dry but I think that I could have someone sray with the hose a litle.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Use a dry blade and have someone hold a vacuum by the blade. Better to use a 5" saw for straight cuts and most of the sink cutout to keep the cut square. Use the 4" angle to work around the sink and counter corners.

Exterior grade plywood is better for granite. The rough surface gives more adhesion to the glue. MDO for painted counters waterproof surface and very smooth. MDF for formica countertops so no movement under the laminate causing it to break loose.

If you have the vacuum clamps, use these. As posted you just need a stable grip on the joint, not much pressure. Glue you buy from HD and such may not hold very well and it may affect the sealer. (it shouldn't, but you have another way) Installers always use the vacuum clamps.


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

*recently had pre-fab granite installed*

I recently had pre-fab granite installed by a company that does this. I considered to DIY'it, then decided not to - and glad I did not DIY. They had four guys onsite for the better part of a day to do the work. It was a lot of work by experienced guys.


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## Botica (Mar 10, 2009)

dalemercier said:


> Hi Iam thinking of buying precut to my sizes granite countertops. I would do the installation myself . With watching youtube and doing some reading on it , I think i could doit.But I have two options on grainte one is 2cm with edge and the other is thinner 1/2" with edges for 1 1/4 thinkness. I will be doing a surface mount sink,not under. So if i went with the thinner one you would not know. I will have to do two seams with epoxy that they will give me to match color of the countertop. I will also be cutting out for the sink but no polishing of edges
> So what do you think about this


I was thinking of doing the same thing, that is, doing it myself. I ran across a small granite business that offered me a substantial discount if I would help out on the installation.
I learned a lot during the process. I think I would have made a mistake by doing it myself, but after just one hands on experience I would be confident in doing another installation myself.
This is my recommendations:
The construction business is real slow - translation- a great time for you to make bargains with a Pro.
If you are going to do it yourself anyway then try to watch one job in person or help out like I did.
If uou want to go ahead and without any of the above advice then I would suggest that you do three things:
1. Go with the thicker granite (less likely to break).
2. Make sure that the surface of the cabinets are Extremely level! Very important that all surfaces are of equal heights from the floor or you will have a disaster. Measure, measure, and measure again, you may even want to use a water level.
3. Two men are not enough you will need yourself and at least two additional men (three in all).
Once the granite is on the counter, move it very slowly in order to have different pieces of the granite come in contact with each other. If someone gives the granite a big shove and it runs into another piece of granite it will likely chip.
Good luck!


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

Thank you all for your help.
I was talking to the one company that Iam thinking of going with and on tuesday they are doing an Installation . I will be going to watch them do the install and get to see they finished work. I will be watching not helping at all. If it does not look good I think I will be going with 3cm and they will install it . I do not that there is to many out there that will let DIY. It going to be alot more $.


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## granite-girl (Apr 3, 2009)

If you do DIY- watch what you use as an adhesive, I've heard that some types of liquid nails can stain from the underneath. In other words you'll see dark spots where the liquid nail was placed underneath the slab. Yikes!





Granite countertops


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## dalemercier (Feb 27, 2009)

*just finished*

I went with 3/4 granite and i did not have to do any cutting myself.
The company was a pre-fab granite not a slab . They cut it to size and did my sink hole with a water jet . I paid to have it deleverd and layed on my counter . If you have any questions .YES IT CAN BE DONE !!!


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## clintb (Mar 13, 2009)

granite-girl said:


> If you do DIY- watch what you use as an adhesive, I've heard that some types of liquid nails can stain from the underneath. In other words you'll see dark spots where the liquid nail was placed underneath the slab. Yikes!
> 
> Granite countertops


Yes, regular Liquid Nails construction adhesive will stain marble and granite. IIRC, it even states that on the label. They do, however, have a formula specifically for marble and granite; that's what was used in our kitchen granite installation.


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