# doorbell buzz troubleshoot HELP



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Depends on what the transformer is supposed to output. Most are 24 volt transformers, some are 48. If the inside unit is buzzing, how old is it, same for the transformer and doorbell switch.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

bergerdude said:


> My doorbell buzzes when pressed.


Isn't that what it's SUPPOSED to do?

DM


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## bergerdude (Jan 3, 2010)

This is the same problem in 2 years, 4 year old house. Last time they changed out the transformer....do I start there?


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## bergerdude (Jan 3, 2010)

It's a doorBELL not a door BUZZER..lol. So the doorBELL should "ding" not "buzz.". Sigh...I guess I need to be realllllly specific for some.

I can see NO stamp for a 24v or 16v on the transformer itself....

Do I replace the transformer or the chime unit first? 
thanks


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

Many doorbells use a 16 volt transformer. What voltage is the doorbell labeled for?


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## a7ecorsair (Jun 1, 2010)

If you read the secondary of the transformer without a load - no button pressed, then a 16 volt transformer may read about 21 volts.
Try reading the secondary side while someone presses and holds the button.
Next, take the cover off the chime box and watch the plunger. Have someone press the button. The plunger should pop out and hit the chime but then retract slightly. The spring is what holds the plunger back.
Next, check to see if the plunger is binding. Flick it with your finger. It should float back and forth a little.


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## bergerdude (Jan 3, 2010)

ah I looked at the chime/bell and there were two plungers. One had the top and bottom plastic spring holder/caps plungers MELTED off and the spring was loose in the cover.

That plunger was frozen with the bottom plastic spring holder/cap melted to the chime bar...hence the other side would strike but was muted by the melted one. did it probably freeze up and get hot...melting the plastic ends?

Am I done or could the transformer be bad and this caused the failure?
The transformer is in a tough area to get to....if I don't need to, I'd rather leave it alone. 

right now the bell goes "dong" since the "ding" is still frozen. 

I will need to get a new chime eventually, I just don't want a fire hazard.

Thanks!


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Sounds like someone laid on the button, and when the coil got stuck, or due to multiple striking, that can cause it. You do not have to replace the transformer, just the bell unit in the hall. Some units come with the buttons, bell unit, and transformer. They are not that much, since you can get the bell/chime unit itself for under $20.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

bergerdude said:


> It's a doorBELL not a door BUZZER..lol. So the doorBELL should "ding" not "buzz.". Sigh...I guess I need to be realllllly specific for some.
> 
> I can see NO stamp for a 24v or 16v on the transformer itself....


The Mouse was making a joke

Look at the xformer closely, I have never seen one that was not marked with a rating.

Often the problem is the bell/chime is coated with dust, they are dust magnets. Blow the unit clean with compressed air (or a reversed vacuum cleaner). Check the that the hammer that hits the gong moves freely.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

rjniles said:


> The Mouse was making a joke


No I wasn't. I was being mean, vindictive and rude. 
I hadn't had my 5 pots of coffee yet, what can I say?

DM


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Let's face reality in today's world: A new transformer, or a new chime unit may cost you as much or more than one of the newer, very nice remote doorbells units.
The chime unit on these only need to be mounted where you desire it to be, then button mounted on the door(s) where you want them to be, and put batteries in them. 
NO hard wiring to be done.


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## dmxtothemax (Oct 26, 2010)

bergerdude said:


> ah I looked at the chime/bell and there were two plungers. One had the top and bottom plastic spring holder/caps plungers MELTED off and the spring was loose in the cover.
> 
> That plunger was frozen with the bottom plastic spring holder/cap melted to the chime bar...hence the other side would strike but was muted by the melted one. did it probably freeze up and get hot...melting the plastic ends?
> 
> ...


Are you going to replace it ?
Or have a go at fixing it ?


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

The bell unit won't overheat unless the button at the door got stuck or someone held the button in.

Jamming of the plunger or dust by itself won't cause the bell unit to overheat.


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## bergerdude (Jan 3, 2010)

DangerMouse said:


> No I wasn't. I was being mean, vindictive and rude.
> I hadn't had my 5 pots of coffee yet, what can I say?
> 
> DM


No problem eitherway, I appreciate all input. :laughing:
humor is always appreciated especially when the house is seemingly falling down around me from week to week. The joys of home ownership!

I got the one plunger working, and I will replace the unit entirely when I am able. HD's replacement transformer looked the same as the one that is up in the rafters surrounded by conduit and ductwork. I'm sure it is stamped somewhere, but not where I could see.

Thanks everyone again for the help :thumbup:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

bergerdude said:


> the house is seemingly falling down around me from week to week. The joys of home ownership!


I know what you mean. I just walk outside and I can see 20 things I could/should be doing/fixing. It's a never ending battle, for sure.

DM


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## jaybe (May 14, 2013)

*My Doorbell Experience*

I just recently had the same problem: buzzing from a doorbell that is supposed to ring.

Since I was inexperienced with this, I wanted to post my experience from a very "beginner" perspective.

First of all, on my doorbell system, the transformer and the bell are two different mechanisms, on different sides of the wall from each other. The transformer, which is metallic and not at all decorative, is inside a coat closet, and from inside the coat closet one can easily see the wiring to it. The bell mechanism, which makes a ding-dong sound (two different tones, made by two different "hammer" rods which strike two different bars) is inside a decorative rectangular plastic case, is on the wall just on the other side from the transformer - and one can't see the wiring unless the decorative cover is removed. It may sound dumb, but I initially thought the transformer in the closet was the bell.

Based on my recent experience, I would suggest looking at the bell mechanism first, and the transformer second. The other poster mentioned a melted component - I also had a melted plastic component inside the ringer housing. Initially, I had a faulty ringer button (outside at the front door) which I replaced, but there must have been some kind of short that caused the bell to ring constantly - causing the plastic component inside the bell mechanism to melt. (Ultrasonic vibration is commonly used in manufacturing processes to melt-weld plastic components together.) I purchased a completely new bell mechanism and replacing that part fixed the problem. Of course I also re did the electrical connection to the push button ringer. It was not necessary to replace the transformer inside the closet - although, because I was fumbling my way through this exercise, I did replace the transformer, a waste of about $12. 

Hope this helps any ultra-beginners out there.


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## dmxtothemax (Oct 26, 2010)

*Please note -
If your front door bell button is iluminated,
then it is normal for the current that runs the light,
to flow thru the ringer mechanism.

It's usually only a low current 20 to 40 ma
and it's not enough to operate the ringer mechanism.

So current could be flowing thru your ringer mechanism 24/7.

It should not be enough to melt anything thou.
Unless it's a crappy chinese job !


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