# 2011 VW Routan overheating



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would make sure the fan is working on both speeds first. 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-cooling-fan-resistor


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

I don't think the VW dealer even check the fan, I haven't been able to talk to the mechanic yet just the front desk lady. There fee to just look at the van is $125 so I wonder if they even did any test to see what is wrong with it?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

catfishhoward said:


> I don't think the VW dealer even check the fan, I haven't been able to talk to the mechanic yet just the front desk lady. There fee to just look at the van is $125 so I wonder if they even did any test to see what is wrong with it?


 It looks pretty involved just to check the fan, he has found that only one speed is working.


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Generally if you are moving and the temp goes up as speed goes up it is because the radiator has lost some of it's heat transfer ability due to clogged channels. Higher speed puts more heat in the coolant that would normally be removed by the increased airflow that comes with the speed, hence balance. The fans really don't do anything when you are moving right along. If temp rises whilst sitting and idling then look at the fan.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

raylo32 said:


> Generally if you are moving and the temp goes up as speed goes up it is because the radiator has lost some of it's heat transfer ability due to clogged channels. Higher speed puts more heat in the coolant that would normally be removed by the increased airflow that comes with the speed, hence balance. The fans really don't do anything when you are moving right along. If temp rises whilst sitting and idling then look at the fan.


You still want to know if the fan operates on both speeds


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

I can do 70 mph and have no problem but if I go from 0 to 60 as fast as I can then it goes up, then I drive normally it goes back down, seems like it just cant keep up with extreme heat all at once.

When at idle it is good but if I rev the engine multiple times on a hot day I can get the needle to go up.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

catfishhoward said:


> I can do 70 mph and have no problem but if I go from 0 to 60 as fast as I can then it goes up.
> 
> When at idle it is good but if I rev the engine multiple times on a hot day I can get the needle to go up.


You should be able to hear or see the fan change speeds too.


----------



## rooster4321 (Feb 25, 2018)

I don't know about your VW but I might normal cars temperature can rise from 190 to 220 at anytime Highway speed or stop and go traffic and it's not an issue, I guess you don't have numbers on your needle gauge, you said you did a compression test is that on the motor or the coolant system check your radiator cap or the cap on the reservoir



Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

Compression test on the cooling system. About a month ago i ran out of coolant all together and had to put over a gallon in, I had no idea where it was going, for a month I kept adding coolant and losing it somewhere, he thinks it was getting spit out of the overflow while I was in stop and go traffic (I did smell coolant sometimes driving), that's when the mechanic replaced the thermostat. 

I was wondering if it could be normal for the needle to rise on high temp days but I don't remember that happening last year?


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Another thing you can do is get a ScanGage II and plug it into your OBD port. It will display temp numerically... more accurate than reading a needle.

This really shouldn't be hard to diagnose. Park the car and let it idle. Assuming the thermostat is OK the coolant temp should cycle around the electric fans' setpoints. It'll slowly rise until it hits the on setpoint, then cool down to the bottom of the control band. It'll keep repeating this as long as it sits there idling. If you have 2 fans the second one usually only comes on if/when the first can't provide enough cooling and/or when the A/C is switched on. The low temp fan will still usually have a setpoint that lets temps get well above 200. That is normal. The second fan usually has higher setpoint like about 220.

If fans are working drive the car. Once the stat is fully open temps will rise with load (speed and hills) and reach equilibrium. If that equilibrium is abnormally high, you need a new radiator... or maybe have yours flushed/rodded if anyone still does that. The best way to test is a good steep hill where you can maintain a good pace so the load is high compared to the speed.

A bad radiator will also manifest with the idle test. If it gets so hot idling that the first fan isn't sufficient and the second fan comes on (without the AC being switched on) you have a problem with the radiator.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Any dealerrship will have a scanner with bidirectional controls to test a fan circuit. Before paying for a radiator I would need to know how they reached that conclusion. The "pay $1800, but it may not work" is [email protected]#>t.

Sounds like they just guessed.


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

Bigplanz said:


> Any dealerrship will have a scanner with bidirectional controls to test a fan circuit. Before paying for a radiator I would need to know how they reached that conclusion. The "pay $1800, but it may not work" is [email protected]#>t.
> 
> Sounds like they just guessed.


From the report they sent me it doesn't indicate anything or test, just that I need a new radiator and therm. I have only talked to the office lady since the mechanic has been in school for the last week . I'll find out more today when I pick it up.


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Indeed, just pointing out how even a non-mechanic can diagnose this easily and accurately before taking it in.



Bigplanz said:


> Any dealerrship will have a scanner with bidirectional controls to test a fan circuit.
> .


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

catfishhoward said:


> From the report they sent me it doesn't indicate anything or test, just that I need a new radiator and therm. I have only talked to the office lady since the mechanic has been in school for the last week . I'll find out more today when I pick it up.


A radiator can have only two things wrong with it. It's leaking, or it's clogged. Both are easy to test. He should be able to tell you exactly how he tested it. You can find plenty of youtube videos showing you how to test it yourself it. 

Could be blockage somewhere else, though. Tstat is the most common cause of blockage causing overheating, but you already replaced. 

I took my car in for an alignment once after I replaced a tie rod. Guy said he couldn't align it because it had a bad tie rod. I said, thanks, and went somewhere else.


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Indeed. I assume we have ruled out a leak with the absence of puddles of coolant or clouds of steam. I guess you could have a tiny pinhole but unlikely. Plastic end tanks often lose their seal and that is one typical leaker but generally pretty obvious.

As for clogging, you can also get general reduced heat transfer from stuff plating out in the channels without total clogging. But it seems to me since the advent of the long life antifreezes clogging and deposits like this are pretty rare. It would be unusual to see this in a reasonably maintained 2011 vehicle, IMO.




Bigplanz said:


> A radiator can have only two things wrong with it. It's leaking, or it's clogged. Both are easy to test. He should be able to tell you exactly how he tested it. You can find plenty of youtube videos showing you how to test it yourself it.
> 
> Could be blockage somewhere else, though. Tstat is the most common cause of blockage causing overheating, but you already replaced.
> 
> I took my car in for an alignment once after I replaced a tie rod. Guy said he couldn't align it because it had a bad tie rod. I said, thanks, and went somewhere else.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

raylo32 said:


> Indeed. I assume we have ruled out a leak with the absence of puddles of coolant or clouds of steam. I guess you could have a tiny pinhole but unlikely. Plastic end tanks often lose their seal and that is one typical leaker but generally pretty obvious.
> 
> As for clogging, you can also get general reduced heat transfer from stuff plating out in the channels without total clogging. But it seems to me since the advent of the long life antifreezes clogging and deposits like this are pretty rare. It would be unusual to see this in a reasonably maintained 2011 vehicle, IMO.


To be fair to the shop, it is possible that replacing the radiator may not fix the problem. The radiator may bad, but that may be the result of the problem, not the cause. To drop $1800 on a new radiator, they would have conclusively demonstrate what is wrong with the old one, and explain what other causes of the overheating they have tested for. I am not going to wing $1800 on "it needs a radiator."


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I agree. I would have them explain exactly where and what the problem is first. But then I would have diagnosed it myself first. And then I would have replaced the radiator myself. Good lord, $1800 parts and labor for a radiator? Maybe the end tanks are gold instead of plastic.



Bigplanz said:


> To be fair to the shop, it is possible that replacing the radiator may not fix the problem. The radiator may bad, but that may be the result of the problem, not the cause. To drop $1800 on a new radiator, they would have conclusively demonstrate what is wrong with the old one, and explain what other causes of the overheating they have tested for. I am not going wing $1800 on "it needs a radiator."


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

raylo32 said:


> I agree. I would have them explain exactly where and what the problem is first. But then I would have diagnosed it myself first. And then I would have replaced the radiator myself. Good lord, $1800 parts and labor for a radiator? Maybe the end tanks are gold instead of plastic.


Probably mostly labor. I saw a video of a radiator change on a Passat. Everything from wheels forward had to come off.


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

I got the report and it just says(HS for starters replace thermostat and radiator), I asked for any test that they ran be put on the print out, nothing. I honesty don't care what this shop says at this point since I took it in to have the fan system check out so they didn't even do what I my mechanic asked for. 

I also asked them to look at my door lock on the passenger side door since it hasn't worked for 2 years and they actually told me they were unable to duplicate the problem??? How hard is it to push a button and not see the lock unlock? The whole problem with this dealership is that they never let me talk to the mechanic to fully explain my issue. You drop the car off and tell a middle man what is wrong and they write the issues down and pass it on to the mechanic.


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

I'm thinking about driving it around more and see if the level drops any since we never really figured out where the coolant was going? He thinks the therm was sticking actually causing it to be spit out the overflow so since I have a new therm I need to see if the levels stay good before I do anything else.


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Worth a try. This may be possible but not likely. If the stat really stuck shut and you drove the car more than a few blocks the motor would have zero cooling and simply melt down.... blown head gasket, lots of drama. Dead in the water. Partly stuck? I have never seen that. In any case you probably should find another garage.



catfishhoward said:


> I'm thinking about driving it around more and see if the level drops any since we never really figured out where the coolant was going? He thinks the therm was sticking actually causing it to be spit out the overflow so since I have a new therm I need to see if the levels stay good before I do anything else.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

For about $20 you can get a bluetooth connector and torque pro and see engine temp and a zillion other things yourself.


----------



## smitty10101 (Jan 27, 2019)

My 2 cents--
#1 did you install the correct tstat---both temp rating & size?
#2 did you overzealously use gasket sealer or silicone? 
#3 Define what you mean by the needle goes up-- Does it red line or just go up a couple of needle thicknesses?

My OLD VW & Audi had a sensor in the radiator to control the fan. When it kicked in and out. Don't know if newer ones still do. If your's does did you check that?

Are you the original owner? 
yes? has the needle been constant from the get go?
No? did the original owner replace the tstat?

When you changed the tstat & added fluid did you bleed the air out completely?


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

smitty10101 said:


> My 2 cents--
> #1 did you install the correct tstat---both temp rating & size?
> #2 did you overzealously use gasket sealer or silicone?
> #3 Define what you mean by the needle goes up-- Does it red line or just go up a couple of needle thicknesses?
> ...


I had a mechanic change out the therm, assume they did it correctly. I took it back to him and since it only comes up from the normal 200 to 220 on hot days he said it might be normal since it's not redlining (I don't remember ever seeing that). I did have the back seat AC running as well as the front AC both on high at the same time which I don't usually have back seat AC on so maybe that is why it came up to 220 and I never seen it do that because I have never ran the AC in the back?

I have drove it 300 miles since the therm replacement, I will continue to drive it another 200 miles and if it doesn't over heat I will figure the problem is fix and sell the van.


----------



## catfishhoward (Sep 8, 2018)

Final update-----

I ran out of coolant again so I took it back to the original mechanic and a different mechanic found a leak from under the AC area (I don't know what hose it was), I seen small amounts of drips but I thought it was just the AC dripping, it looked and felt like water? How he nor the VW dealership didn't found this is crazy and the VW dealership wanted to put in a new radiator for $1800. I will be calling the dealership to get my $125 fee for looking over the van for the problem.


----------

