# Removing compression ring?



## Teetorbilt

In a word, no. Compression fittings can be reused with varying results, usually leaks. Once that the brass sleeve has been compressed onto the copper, there is no going back. Sorry about your drywall repairs.

You may want to shift to sweat fittings at this point. IMHO, they are much easier to replace.


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## redline

ruzz said:


> I have copper pipe throughout the house. I need to replace the valves on the washing machine. The existing valves are attached with a compression fitting to a copper pipe which only sticks out of the wall about an inch. There is obviously not enough protrusion to just cut off the pipe and replace the valve. When I remove the valve, the ring and nut remain on the pipe. I would like to replace these since the nut is all corroded but It doesn't seem to slide off. Can the nut be reused on another new compression valve? The nut may just have surface discoloring and still be functional. Since the pipe is so short, I can not push the nut back far enough to get a hold of the ring. If I just pull on the nut, obviously the nut is further compressing the ring not allowing it to slide off. Is there a trick to removing these without damaging the pipe and without punching a hole in the drywall? You could drill a small hole(s) into the compression ring but do not go into the copper pipe. By drilling a small hole(s) into the compression ring , you will remove some of the strength of the ring. Or you could file a slot into the ring to weaken it but do not file the copper pipe. Or you could use a hack saw blade to cut a slot into the ring but do not cut into the copper pipe. Or you could use a dremel tool to cut a small slot into the ring.


You may find that you will have to open up the drywall and solder on a new valve. Repairing drywall is an easy task.


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## Mike Swearingen

Due to compression rings "setting" into the copper pipe (with the accompanying slight distortion), I usually use the existing brass ferrule ring and nut with a new compression valve.
The ring seals the fitting, not the nut, and if you have to use it, just smear a little clear silicone on the ring and it will seal it.
If you are forced to replace the old ring and nut due to nut corrosion, you may be able to add enough pipe with a short piece of additional pipe and soldered coupling(s) from _below_ the floor under the wall (crawlspace? basement?) in lieu of tearing into drywall. Check out the possibilities first. You'll have to completely drain the line to solder it, of course.
OR, use one of redline's suggestions. More than one way to skin that cat.
Good luck!
Mike


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## redline

I suggested to ruzz to try and reuse the nut and ring. As long as they are both in good condition then a new valve threaded to the old nut and ring should be the easiest and cheapest method.


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## westphoenix

ruzz said:


> I have copper pipe throughout the house. I need to replace the valves on the washing machine. The existing valves are attached with a compression fitting to a copper pipe which only sticks out of the wall about an inch. There is obviously not enough protrusion to just cut off the pipe and replace the valve. When I remove the valve, the ring and nut remain on the pipe. I would like to replace these since the nut is all corroded but It doesn't seem to slide off. Since the pipe is so short, I can not push the nut back far enough to get a hold of the ring. If I just pull on the nut, obviously the nut is further compressing the ring not allowing it to slide off. Is there a trick to removing these without damaging the pipe and without punching a hole in the drywall?


I know this is an old thread to revive, but I ran across this page on Google searching for a solution to the same problem. Just in case someone else comes across this page here is what I did.

I also have copper pipe (1/2") through the house. My washing machine valves are also attached with compression fittings. I may have had a little more pipe than you, but maybe not.

To get the nut back far enough to access the compression ring I cut the wall-to-pipe flange off with some wire cutters. Once the flange was removed I could push the nut back and slightly into the wall. I used a hack saw blade, not installed on the hack saw, to put a groove in the compression ring. I did this very carefully, cutting at a 45 degree angle to the pipe. Once I was close to cutting into the copper pipe I stopped. I then placed a flat head screwdriver in the groove I just cut in the ring and twisted it. The ring popped and I was able to slide it and the nut off the pipe. I then packed the new nut with plumbers putty, pressing it firmly into the threads. I placed the flange on, the nut on, the ring on, then tightened the valve to the nut. The reason I used the plumbers putty is because it seems to take up any space in between the pipe and ring, and between the ring and nut. You could probably use clear silicone also, but its more messy.


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## End Grain

I use a compression nut and ring puller. It looks like an ordinary gear puller but it does help the ring to smooth the copper tubing out as it's slowly being pulled forward and off. A little clean 'n' buff with some plumber's emery paper and a very thin and light smear of plumber's grease on the tubing helps the new compression ring to move easiliy and fully seat into the new valve body rather than become cocked on the tubing.

I also use the hacksaw and screwdriver method to remove the more stubborn compression rings, especially if they're not easily accessible for the puller. Just have to be very careful not to nick the copper tubing.


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## wzupcat

Yahoo!!!!!! I feel like Da Bomb thanks to you guys!!!! I was able to remove the old compression ring and now have a leak free shut off valve. Thanks for the Dremel tip. Thank goodness that is one tool my soon to be ex-husband didn't take when he left. I used a cut off disc to cut a slit & it came right off. I then used a fine sandpaper to clean & smooth the copper pipe. the new compression nut/sleeve & some teflon tape & life is good again. No more mopping/sopping up the water in the kitchen.  thanks again!!!


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## Stinkyonion

Just fround this thread with google as I was experiencing the same problem. I used a gear puller (bought from autoshop for like $10 and has been unexpectedly usefull lots of times now) and a washer (to keep center of gear puller from entering the pipe) to pull the compression nut to the end of the pipe. Next I slid the nut towards the wall to expose the compression ring. Then with a simple twist of a wrench (robogrip) lightly on the compression ring the ring twisted off the tip of the pipe. Did this on all three pipes in my bathroom, about 2 minutes per pipe. Then had to go to home depot for new shutoffs and saw the ring pullers mentioned by previous poster (almost exactly the same as gear puller) in the home depot plumbing isle for like $10. Project already finished, so didnt buy it.
:thumbup:


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## folmonty

*Removing compression rings on copper pipe*

Hey guys, just joined this group looking for this information. I'd already had a puller in hand but it was too big and wouldn't fit behind the nut between it and the wall. Soooooooooooo...........looking for that tool you never use I came upon a batter terminal puller. JUST the RIGHT SIZE!:thumbsup: Worked like a charm. Can't remember last time I'd used this thing but sure came in handy. Thanks for the added guidance. 

folmonty
Danville, CA


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## asawadude

In doing some research on google, I found 3 tools designed specifically to remove brass compression rings from copper pipe. Use "Compression Sleeve Puller" for your search criteria. 

Here's a couple of pictures of what I found:

D.O. Smith tool:










Pasco tool:










Bleakman tool:










Disclaimer: I haven't used any of these items but I'm contemplating adding one to the tool box since I have 2 bathrooms planned for remodeling. The D.O Smith and Pasco tools appear to latch on the nut, pulling out the compression ring and nut simultaneously. The Bleakman tool differs by latching directly onto the compresion ring. 

I've always managed to remove brass compression rings with a propane torch, channel locks, and some elbow grease but I'm down for whatever is easy. 

Regards, asawadude


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## Tommy Plumb

asawadude said:


> I've always managed to remove brass compression rings with a propane torch, channel locks, and some elbow grease but I'm down for whatever is easy.
> 
> Regards, asawadude


Cut that ring off and solder it. Looks much better.


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## workedforme

*Blowtorch worked*

Thanks! Heating the whole compression-ring and nut worked to remove an old compression ring. The copper pipe is short at my toilet, so I coludn't slide the nut back far enough to use a hacksaw or dremmel. I heated the ring (and the nut and pipe too, I suppose) with my cheap propane torch and pulled the nut with a vice grips. Pulling the nut worked and avoided marring the ring or distorting the pipe. It came off pretty easily.

I also used emory cloth (very fine sandpaper) like the other poster suggested to clean up the pipe before applying the new fitting.

Note: on close inspection, my old valve was slightly different (different thread pitch and depth from circa 1970 house). So my problem was that when I put on the new valve it did not fully tighten or compress the valve, and it needed to come off.


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## chascass

*twist the ring*

This thread has a lot of good info on it and was very helpful.
What ended up working for me is this.
I took a pair of slip joint pliers and grabbed the ring very very gently. Then I started rocking the ring back and forth clockwise-counterclockwise without trying to pull it off. I increassed the force very gradually and the ring finally broke free. Then I started pulling a little bit while continuing to rock the ring back and forth. It slid off with very little trouble.


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## ironrange




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## ivmaker

*Removing compression ring*

I used the hacksaw method and it worked. Thanks for the suggestion. Saved a lot of unnecessary and messy drywall work in a tight spot.


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## MetriRN

*Thanks for this tip, it worked!!*

Thanks to westphoenix88295, I was stuck with the water supply to my house turned off until I could remove the compression ring to put a new bib on. This worked! I can't believe I had a hacksaw blade to cut into the ring, but I did.:thumbsup:




westphoenix said:


> I know this is an old thread to revive, but I ran across this page on Google searching for a solution to the same problem. Just in case someone else comes across this page here is what I did.
> 
> I also have copper pipe (1/2") through the house. My washing machine valves are also attached with compression fittings. I may have had a little more pipe than you, but maybe not.
> 
> To get the nut back far enough to access the compression ring I cut the wall-to-pipe flange off with some wire cutters. Once the flange was removed I could push the nut back and slightly into the wall. I used a hack saw blade, not installed on the hack saw, to put a groove in the compression ring. I did this very carefully, cutting at a 45 degree angle to the pipe. Once I was close to cutting into the copper pipe I stopped. I then placed a flat head screwdriver in the groove I just cut in the ring and twisted it. The ring popped and I was able to slide it and the nut off the pipe. I then packed the new nut with plumbers putty, pressing it firmly into the threads. I placed the flange on, the nut on, the ring on, then tightened the valve to the nut. The reason I used the plumbers putty is because it seems to take up any space in between the pipe and ring, and between the ring and nut. You could probably use clear silicone also, but its more messy.


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## Rabbit1960

*Compressing Ring Puller*

I was VERY skeptical of removing a compression ring, especially using a puller...never heard of that before. Sure enough it's right there with all the other specialty tools in the Home Depot plumbing aisle, $10.50. Not exactly a pro tool, but it pulled 3 rings under my sink in just a couple minutes. So far so good, saved a lot of time...but what next? I installed some decent ball-valve shutoffs with new compression rings, tightened it all up and had the wife watch while I turned the water back on. No leaks! I admit I'm stunned that this works at all, much less 3 for 3 without so much as a drip. Your mileage may vary.


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## rurfm2Z*

*compression rings*



ruzz said:


> I have copper pipe throughout the house. I need to replace the valves on the washing machine. The existing valves are attached with a compression fitting to a copper pipe which only sticks out of the wall about an inch. There is obviously not enough protrusion to just cut off the pipe and replace the valve. When I remove the valve, the ring and nut remain on the pipe. I would like to replace these since the nut is all corroded but It doesn't seem to slide off. Since the pipe is so short, I can not push the nut back far enough to get a hold of the ring. If I just pull on the nut, obviously the nut is further compressing the ring not allowing it to slide off. Is there a trick to removing these without damaging the pipe and without punching a hole in the drywall?


Usually the nuts on the comp rings are still good, just buy new comp valves 
and use the old nuts, dis- reguard the new nuts


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## dougslager

I did go to the local hardware store (Ace) and buy the compression ring removal tool. The problem with twisting it off is that one might loosen a joint behind the wall where it is inaccessible. With the tool, the ring slides right off. $13 is cheap insurance for not having to worry about damaging the copper pipe.


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## tuldav

*Remove compression ring*

Used a gear puller. Worked like a champ!


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## Sheppy

Hey you Tools, the compression ring used for house hold appliances, i.e dishwasher, washing machine, etc is called a "feral". You can find a simple small "feral" removing tool at Home Depot for $10....Now please, put away your blow torches and channel locks before your kids hurt themselves.


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## FlaTenThumbs

*Remove a ferrel*

Although I've been around the housing industry for years, and understand most of the materials and processes used, I'm definitely not proficient at building or repairing. I got into a lav faucet replacement project and decided to replace everything from the wall out. 

The ferrel connections to the supply line valves just about had me buffaloed, but I came to this site and saw someone refer to a ferrel remover tool. Hmmm ... what the hell is that?

So, off to Lowe's I went and found one there for $19.95. I'm sure Home Depot or any of the other outlets also have them, but this store is in my neighborhood.

So, after a couple hours of futile cussin', dingin' my fingers, I then had the tool I needed. Saved the day! Thanks, gentlemen (and lady) for steering me in the right direction. :thumbup:


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## Pop-pop

*Funny method success*

Same problem, thanks to all.

I tried the sawing method to remove the old ring, but could not get a good angle across it. (This is a toilet supply, tight.) So next tried the slip-joint pliers method above, but with vise-grips. But no turn, did not want to make it tighter, so started going back and forth letting the vise-grips teeth erode the ring. The soft brass was turning to little chips pretty fast. I just tightened the screw thing gradually, and only tried to eat into a small part of the ring. It might have worked, but the heat or the motion broke the ring loose, yea, then it came off as above in the slip joint method. Then as others said, emery cloth, etc to clean pipe up, then new compression fitting. Little pipe dope compound (the non-hardening type) on every part of the compression fitting. Sweet, no leak. Thanks again for the tips.


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## JEB Jr

*You Were There When I Needed You...Thanks*

Used the Dremel to nick the comp ring. Worked like a champ. Be careful of your cut depth. Pulled ring off with fingers. Replaced with a sweat fitting (bathroom - toilet). 10 minutes for everything. Thanks for all the good suggestions.


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## lovelyrita

*Thanks!*

Thank you for these complete instructions; they worked like a charm. I had a mini hack saw and used that blade. I was feeling pretty discouraged with 2 plumbing problems going on at once and having success on something that seemed like I needed a plumber gave me the impetus to tackle the other job.



westphoenix said:


> I know this is an old thread to revive, but I ran across this page on Google searching for a solution to the same problem. Just in case someone else comes across this page here is what I did.
> 
> I also have copper pipe (1/2") through the house. My washing machine valves are also attached with compression fittings. I may have had a little more pipe than you, but maybe not.
> 
> To get the nut back far enough to access the compression ring I cut the wall-to-pipe flange off with some wire cutters. Once the flange was removed I could push the nut back and slightly into the wall. I used a hack saw blade, not installed on the hack saw, to put a groove in the compression ring. I did this very carefully, cutting at a 45 degree angle to the pipe. Once I was close to cutting into the copper pipe I stopped. I then placed a flat head screwdriver in the groove I just cut in the ring and twisted it. The ring popped and I was able to slide it and the nut off the pipe. I then packed the new nut with plumbers putty, pressing it firmly into the threads. I placed the flange on, the nut on, the ring on, then tightened the valve to the nut. The reason I used the plumbers putty is because it seems to take up any space in between the pipe and ring, and between the ring and nut. You could probably use clear silicone also, but its more messy.


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## vinonut

*Like a charm*



ivmaker said:


> I used the hacksaw method and it worked. Thanks for the suggestion. Saved a lot of unnecessary and messy drywall work in a tight spot.


I had the same problem. I was changing out faucet and angle stops on a lavatory pedestal sink. Intended to re-use the ferules, but one of them was leaking. With absolutely no way to get the compression ring puller into that space, I was able to hold the nut back enough out of the way to hacksaw a groove in the ferule. A twist of the screwdriver broke it free. Thanks, westphoenix!


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## vinonut

With the pedestal sink done, figured I'd also change out the angle stop for the toilet. Oughta be simple - afterall, I now own a compression ring puller (that I was unable to use behind the sink)! 

Although there wasn't enough room to slide the nut back fully, I assumed I could put the pulling arms of the device behind the nut, and pull both the nut and the ferrule off. Nothing budged. In fact, the arms kept slipping off the back of the nut when the center screw was tightened. So once again, I had to cut the ferrule off again with a hacksaw. Hacksaw Blade 2; Compression Ring Puller 0.


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## Alan

I've never had to fully replace one in 4 years. Usually reusing the nut and ferrule as mike suggested in post # 2 or 3 works, and if it leaks a little, I smear some pipe dope on the sealing side of the ferrule and tighten it down onto a new compression angle stop.

So much easier if you ask me.


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## vinonut

Thanks, Alan. Reusing the ferrule and nut was my second choice. But, I was looking for a more spruced-up look, and made the erroneous assumption that given the clearance, a puller would work. After failing to get the nut and ring off with the puller, I opted for reusing the nut and ferrule. It leaked. Probably could have packed it with more stuff, but I'm pretty sure I heard the puller snickering at me, and I resorted to the hacksaw. It was ugly this time - the nut wouldn't back away very far, and I couldn't get a clean shot at anything approaching a 45 degree angle. It didn't help that I'm a right-handed guy working to the left of the toilet. :furious:

Frankly, I'd have had a lot more pleasure out of a $20 flu shot, than that puller from Ace. They may be good for something, but it was all I could do to keep from tossing it in to the recycle bin -- which, I may still do.


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## oh'mike

Rarely --but often enough to note: Not all shutoff valves have the same depth socket for the pipe--

Some times the ferrel is to far back (leavibg the copper to long) to fit into a Brass Craft shut off.

Three solutions---Get a shut off with a deeper throat-(Lowe's shut offs are deeper I think)
Cut off 1/8 of an inch of copper (I have a tiny 'Imp' cutter that will do that) 
Cut the pipe behind the ferrel and use a new one.


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## phandy8188

Compression Ring Puller


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