# The curious case of the disappearing Odometer



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Excellent! I have found my first thing to repair on my Navigator. (Busting out a rusted trailer hitch doesn't, well, really count as a "repair")

This thing drives great (except for the 12 MPH gas mileage, but no complaints). One thing, however, is that it is afflicted with the Ford "now you see it, now you don't" electronic odometer. This, I have discovered, is common to Ford/Lincolns and is related to a bad solder joint on the instrument panel. Take the panel out, solder it, supposedly the problem is gone. Attached are photos. Anybody done this repair, on a Navigator or Expedition of this era (2000)?


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Wow, maybe I'll just learn to love it.

http://sparkys-answers.com/2013/09/2003-ford-f150-odometer-works-sometimes.html


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

That's an all day job just getting the dash apart. 

Cold solder joints are a common malady on many PCB'S , and keeps electronic techs in grocery money.

Good luck with it.

ED


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> Wow, maybe I'll just learn to love it.
> 
> http://sparkys-answers.com/2013/09/2003-ford-f150-odometer-works-sometimes.html


It's not as hard as it looks. I don't have a Navigator, but I do have 2 Rangers. The process for getting the gauges out doesn't look much different. On my '96, I have had the cluster out at least 10 times. I can remove the entire gauge cluster in about 15mins. Surely getting the cluster out shouldn't take you more than an hour.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I took the instrument panel out of my Villager about six months ago, to replace all the bulbs that had burned out. Only one still worked. That wasn't difficult. Two screws held in the bezel and the switches just popped off. Four more screws held on the instrument panel, then just rotate it to get to the backside to replace the bulbs. I didn't even have to unplug it. It took about 20 minutes. 

This is considerably more complicated, since getting it out is the easy part. I will think about it for a while. Odometer is the least important guage on the whole panel, and everything else works great. Don't want to screw something else up to fix something relatively trivial.


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> I took the instrument panel out of my Villager about six months ago, to replace all the bulbs that had burned out. Only one still worked. That wasn't difficult. Two screws held in the bezel and the switches just popped off. Four more screws held on the instrument panel, then just rotate it to get to the backside to replace the bulbs. I didn't even have to unplug it. It took about 20 minutes.
> 
> This is considerably more complicated, since getting it out is the easy part. I will think about it for a while. Odometer is the least important guage on the whole panel, and everything else works great. Don't want to screw something else up to fix something relatively trivial.


How much practice have you had soldering? Got any sort of electronics that don't work that you could practice on? That's how I taught myself. On my '04 Ranger, the bulb for the passenger airbag went out. This made the airbag light on the dash light up, and prevented the truck from passing inspection. Ford's replacement was to replace the entire housing for a few hundred dollars. I found the correct bulb for less than a dollar, and un-soldered the old one, then soldered in the new one. It was a lot easier than I expected and has been working fine for the last 2yrs. I used a cheap soldering kit from Radio Shack. 

https://www.radioshack.com/collecti...-piece-basic-soldering-set?variant=5717865349


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Typical Ford instrument cluster problems. If you can solder then you can you tube this and fix it. If not you can use circuit board medics.com I use them when the cluster is more than just resoldering the joints.:vs_cool:


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Gotta be brave sometimes.....


I had a BMW 7 series where the entire display would go out.

Turned out that the computer was part of the display. Bmw price was $2,400.00 to replace the whole thing.

I fixed it for $3.00 with some capacitors from radio shack and four hours of my Saturday.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ktkelly said:


> Gotta be brave sometimes.....
> 
> 
> I had a BMW 7 series where the entire display would go out.
> ...


If I lost the whole display, then, yeah, go for it. Nothing to lose. Just the Odometer, eh, not such a big deal. Sometime this summer, I will probably take an afternoon off work, go to pull apart and take out an instrument panel on an Expedition or Nav (if they have one). Get a feel for removing it, first, then take it home and study up on taking it apart, soldering, etc. Practice on the junk yard part, not your own car, is sort of my approach.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

This video is exactly what i need to do. The dash trim layout and instrument panel of a 2000 Expedition is exactly like mine.


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Bigplanz said:


> If I lost the whole display, then, yeah, go for it. Nothing to lose. .



Well, the only time it all went out was when I stepped on the brakes, which was only a problem for everyone behind me....:devil3:


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Everything on the panel is a needle gauge, except the odometer. Not sure about a BMW.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> Wow, maybe I'll just learn to love it.
> 
> http://sparkys-answers.com/2013/09/2003-ford-f150-odometer-works-sometimes.html



Where you live do they have to read your odometer to pass emissions?


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ChuckF. said:


> Where you live do they have to read your odometer to pass emissions?


No, Louisville eliminated its emissions testing requirement about 15 years ago. Fortunately, the odometer worked when i transferred the title from NY. The sheriff deputy had to read it for the transfer.


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> No, Louisville eliminated its emissions testing requirement about 15 years ago.


No emissions testing at all? That must be nice.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

No emissions or even safety testing in Wyoming either.

ED


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

If we didn't have emissions testing here, my '96 Ranger would be sporting a different motor.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

r0ckstarr said:


> If we didn't have emissions testing here, my '96 Ranger would be sporting a different motor.


The had emissions testing for years, and then the state legislature decided to ban local municipalities from having one. Something about infringing on freedom or something. The city had to get some sort of permission/waiver from the EPA because of the state wide ban.

Edit to add: no yearly safety inspection required here either. Out of state transfers require inspection by the sheriffs department. Very minimal. Horn, headlights, turn signals and brake lights, no cracked windshield and you pass.


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> The had emissions testing for years, and then the state legislature decided to ban local municipalities from having one. Something about infringing on freedom or something. The city had to get some sort of permission/waiver from the EPA because of the state wide ban.
> 
> Edit to add: no yearly safety inspection required here either. Out of state transfers require inspection by the sheriffs department. Very minimal. Horn, headlights, turn signals and brake lights, no cracked windshield and you pass.


Interesting. They check all of that except windshield here. My windshield is cracked badly along the bottom and I pass. The last time I counted, I had 14 stars from rocks. :laughing:


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

r0ckstarr said:


> Interesting. They check all of that except windshield here. My windshield is cracked badly along the bottom and I pass. The last time I counted, I had 14 stars from rocks. :laughing:


Oh, I forgot, they make you turn your windshield wipers on too. Other than that, any car you can imagine can get registered to drive on the public streets in KY. Cops can (and WILL) pull you over for one headlight, no brake lights, etc. but you can register any POS car you want here.


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

r0ckstarr said:


> No emissions testing at all? That must be nice.



None required here in NC if the vehicle is 1994 and older. No inspections at all if it's 35 years old.

Then there's the deal where some counties have no inspections on anything.


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

I had a 1966 Buick that was registered as an antique. That meant that once every 5 years, I had to go prove that the lights, horn, and brakes worked.

After a vehicle is 25 years old here, it no longer has to do the emissions testing. I have 5 more years left on my '96 Ranger.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I went to pull apart today. Took about 20 minutes to pull the instrument cluster. One panel pops off, the other one is held on by 7, 7mm screws, the cluster itself, four 7mm screws. The shift display snaps off easily. Here is a short crappy video. I will post some still pictures too.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Here are some photos. I will take the instrument cluster I bought and check out the solder joints, practice on them and get them tight, then, at some point if it bugs me enough, either swap it with the one in the Nav or repair the one in the Nav. This is (getting it out) a very easy DIY.


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Be careful with the tabs that hold the gear shift indicator in place. They break easily on the Ranger clusters, and look near identical to what you're holding.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

r0ckstarr said:


> Be careful with the tabs that hold the gear shift indicator in place. They break easily on the Ranger clusters, and look near identical to what you're holding.


The one in the salvage yard just popped right off. Didn't have to compress it hard at all. Even the wiring harness connectors came out easily. Usually those a b**ch to get out in a cramped dash board. Not these, took only a few seconds.


----------



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

no emissions here in Fl neither- for about 20 years.


----------



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Cool technology with the solder fix for the odometer. Quite different from the old tiny plastic sprockets which powered the counter type from the 1980's. Ive fixed one of those. What a fun project- kinda like playing with erector set.


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

noquacks said:


> Cool technology with the solder fix for the odometer. Quite different from the old tiny plastic sprockets which powered the counter type from the 1980's. Ive fixed one of those. What a fun project- kinda like playing with erector set.


You mean these. This is the broken little worm gear that drives the counter.










I've done this twice. Once on my '96 Ranger, and once on the backup/parts cluster that I have for the same vehicle.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

The solder joints on the one from the salvage yard look good. Might just swap it out. Probably replace all the bulbs first, though.


----------



## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

The cluster will need to be programmed. Not sure on that year but most fords store the key programming in the cluster.


----------



## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Easy enough to swap out of it doesn't start just plug the old one in and leave loose. Go to the dealer and have them program with it all apart should only charge about half hour and you can button it up after. Other wise they will probably charge 1.5 hours.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

cjm94 said:


> Easy enough to swap out of it doesn't start just plug the old one in and leave loose. Go to the dealer and have them program with it all apart should only charge about half hour and you can button it up after. Other wise they will probably charge 1.5 hours.


Thanks for the info. I didn't know that a new/different cluster would require programming. I will repair mine, and if that doesn't work, call a dealership about programming the new one.


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

That used cluster has to be programed. Vin#, Mileage, and theft needs to match the PCM, Body control module, and other modules. I can do that. If I can, then there are other shops that can. You don't need to go to the dealer. Just find a shop that has the capabilities to reprogram vehicles. You tube it to identify the soldering joints you need to re do.:vs_cool:


----------



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Being that the cluster came from the junkyard, can it be installed to test it before he has it programmed? I know it's easy to swap out the gauges, but it would help eliminate any surprises if there were a broken gauge.


----------



## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

It should light up just won't start.


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

And set codes.:vs_cool:


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I bought the one at the salvage yard to see how difficult it would be to access, then actually take a part and solder on. I disassembled it Saturday. Took about five minutes. Nothing difficult about it at all. I guess I will fix the one in the Nav and will have a spare.


----------

