# Drywall adhesive on uneven ceilings?



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

It's always been my understanding that drywall adhesive was mainly used so they could use less screws/nails which made the finishing a tad easier. Adhesive will not draw the drywall up to the stud although it might bridge the gap where the drywall doesn't set tight against the stud/joist.


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## t.carpenter00 (Jan 23, 2018)

I used to hang rock professionally for years. Adhesive doesn't help much on ceilings. And it makes it very hard to hold the sheets in place for fastening.
But if they really know how to drive nails and screws, you have little to worry about. 3 screws in the field is the general standard minimum. If you are that worried, ask them to do 4.

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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If you are screwing to trusses, you don't want nails or screws within 16" of the interior wall. Glue would not be wanted.
Trusses flex up, drywall bends and corner to wall stays in tact.


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## RetroJoe_1 (Nov 19, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> If you are screwing to trusses, you don't want nails or screws within 16" of the interior wall. Glue would not be wanted.
> Trusses flex up, drywall bends and corner to wall stays in tact.


Not trusses. They are the old ceiling joists. 2 by 8 Lumber 24 ft long.


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## RetroJoe_1 (Nov 19, 2017)

t.carpenter00 said:


> I used to hang rock professionally for years. Adhesive doesn't help much on ceilings. And it makes it very hard to hold the sheets in place for fastening.
> But if they really know how to drive nails and screws, you have little to worry about. 3 screws in the field is the general standard minimum. If you are that worried, ask them to do 4.
> Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE
> 
> ...


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

If you run wood down the seams instead of finishing them it might not crack.

For joists that are SYP or Douglas Fir, in good condition, 8 inches tall, 2 inches wide, 16 inches on center, and 24 feet long between supports, the deflection calculated is 3.685 inches.

This translates to a deflection of L / 78.

Using glue is what causes ghost seams.


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## t.carpenter00 (Jan 23, 2018)

You could do that. But unless you're going to do tumbling in your attic, it's just useless overkill. I've been back in a couple of houses where I've addressed that same framing configuration - no issues. If you were overlaying a bad plaster ceiling, I'd drive screws into the joists. If the nails holding the furring strips to the ceiling joists weren't holding, I'd screw to the joists. If neither of those problems present, it's just needless overkill. Properly done, drywall is very crack resistant! 

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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

RetroJoe_1 said:


> Any opinions?



If you tell them how to do their jobs, you likely will be pissing them off. Hanging drywall is not rocket science. Are they professionals or did you find them in front of the Home Depot ?


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## t.carpenter00 (Jan 23, 2018)

How did the rock hanging go? 

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## RetroJoe_1 (Nov 19, 2017)

t.carpenter00 said:


> How did the rock hanging go?
> 
> Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk


So far so good. Most of the ceilings are hung. I decided not to request the drywall adhesive. The sheetrock crew was kind enough to reinforce the strapping with sheetrock screws prior to hanging The Rock. They will be coming back tomorrow to work on the walls. Because it's a 90 year old house the window jambs protrude from the framing an inch. So the solution we came up with was to double up the half inch sheetrock on all of the exterior walls. Saves me from having to fur it out.


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## RetroJoe_1 (Nov 19, 2017)

ron45 said:


> If you run wood down the seams instead of finishing them it might not crack.
> 
> For joists that are SYP or Douglas Fir, in good condition, 8 inches tall, 2 inches wide, 16 inches on center, and 24 feet long between supports, the deflection calculated is 3.685 inches.
> 
> ...


 I don't plan on going up in the attic and jumping around like a trampoline but when I go up there and just walk around I can feel the floor bounce in the center. Now this is only in the area over the master bedroom where they used 24 foot long joists. On the back portion of the house they used to separate joists across the width and that is pretty solid. The other possible reason is there is no bearing beam across the middle of the room. It's a 16 foot span from one wall to the other in the master bedroom. In the back of the house there is a wall that splits up two bedrooms and that might act as support to prevent the deflection that I have in the front of the house. I do have OSB that I laid down in the Attic. I just temporarily screwed it down on the corners. I'm wondering if I screw it down better whether that would help? I'm just concerned that that bounciness might eventually cause problems with that sheetrock in the master bedroom.


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