# Proper Roofing Techniques?



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

From all appearances, it appears that Joe Bob & his brother/cousin Billy Bob do not know how to do flashing. Post a wider angle shot showing the whole roof, not just a small section.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

don't know what that picture of the gutter is showing but something doesn't look right there. As far as the other work goes, although it is not a preferred method, if it's not leaking it should pass a home inspection. I personally do not allow bleeders in the valleys and the chimney flashing looks like they took a little more time than many roofers work I see. Any time I see caulk on a roof like that I just shake my head. To me, bleeders and caulk say lazy and/or inexperienced. 

Not the highest quality work but it looks to be passable.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

OldNBroken said:


> Any time I see caulk on a roof like that I just shake my head.
> Not the highest quality work but it looks to be passable.


I agree. :thumbsup:

As far as the bleeders up the valley, we do it, but not with a half cali weave like that. We use a colored W valley metal 24" wide, and run bleeders up both sides of the valley. The tar strips on the back of the laminates make a great seal and eliminates many valley problems, especially on low pitches. We used to cut all valleys and it just looks hackish up close compared to the way we now do it. Plus there are no voids exposed in the valleys like there is when they are cut.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

your way sounds neat and clean MJW. One of my biggest issues with the method they used is that extra layer of laminate under the one side creates an even bigger hump on that side of the valley. Just don't like the finished look. Plus if you are going to run a bleeder, at least take the time to point the shingles neatly along the bleeder. Those corners overhanging or running short just irritate me.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

I am a firm believer in a nice and tight roof installation.The chimney counter flashing is my favorite.

Pic #1 chimney; my chimney technique that works extremely well is 1 solid continuous piece.I anchor mine to the side of the chimney with 3/16" anchors by Redhead.Not to big and bulky but small and solid enough to perform as needed and still maintain a very attractive application.I never nail thru the mortar joints.I cut into the mortar and install my metal with a Z bend setting into the cavity I cut thru.Nailing into the mortar joints is a technique from the old school which worked well in its time but technilogical advances have evolved.Part of that technique is a counter step flashing combination,meaning instead of 1 being step flashing and another the counter flashing they act as 1.That maybe causing the shingles to be lifted.IMO since the counter flashing is multiple sections they should have been verticle instead of a negative degree angle.The aprons in the front and the pan in the back of the chimney seem to be different materials.IMO how and why would you replace the face counter flashing and reuse the pan and apron? The corner piece at the lower left facing the chimney should be going around the apron rather than the apron leading the corner.Whoever performed this installation tried but thats about it.And yes its alot better than some I have seen.Will this chimney cause your house to fail an inspection?Depends on how "By the book" the inspectors are.


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