# Gluing PVC pipe and toilet flange



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Fitting tolerances are really tight. so when you "dry fit" a joint, they never seat completly. If your confident in your measurement, it will seat completely with glue. Keep pressure on it for a few seconds so it doesn't back out on you


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

yeah, the glue will lube it, but i wouldn't trust that entirely. how far can you push it in ?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why not just lay the floor, cut it off even with the flooring then install the flange?


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

> My plumber left me with a 3" female connection at the 12" roughin,


 Should have been 4 4x3 closet bend then you could have gone in with a inside 4 out side 3 flange, but whats done is done, *you could sacrifice a flange cut re leaf cuts on the flange so you can insert it and pull it back easily then when you verify your measurements glue in the new flang*e.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

TheEplumber said:


> Fitting tolerances are really tight. so when you "dry fit" a joint, they never seat completly.


man, you ain't kiddin. and if they do go all the way in = good luck gettin them apart.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Glue will lube it very well. Almost too well - note that the way those pipes are designed, it will want to slide back out when lubed with glue. You have to hold it in placed (pressed firmly down) for about a minute before letting go.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

First of all, the flange is supposed to sit ON TOP of the finished floor.

Secondly, We have to assume that you own a ruler? All you have to do is measure the distance from the finished floor, to the back of the bell, then measure from the back of the flange to the end of the spigot on the flange. Subtract about 3/16 for kicks, and cut the spigot off square. You can use a hose clamp to give you a really square line. You should get a flange with a stainless moveable ring on top. Prime the bell, and the pipe, and thoroughly coat both with slow set cement. You need a big dauber for 3 inch pipe. push in the spigot till it bottoms and rotate 1/4 turn to remove any bubbles. And Definitely hold the flange in, as another poster said, because it will try to back out from the heat developed by THF.


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## ex-Khobar Andy (Aug 26, 2007)

*Now that's interesting*



> Jagans said: First of all, the flange is supposed to sit ON TOP of the finished floor.


The advice I got from a plumber at work was that the flange should be level with the finished floor; and looking at a random selection of you tube posts by people who claim to be plumbers, they are about evenly divided between those who place it on the finished floor and those who put it on the subfloor so it is more or less level with the finished floor surface. I have already cut all the tile so that the flange sits on the subfloor and is within 1/16th of level with the tile surface. Should I shim it up with a flange spacer?


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Nahh dont bother. Ive seen toilets with three wax seals! Just so the flange is well supported, and fastened down, because the toilet attaches to it in those keyhole slots. I slide in 5/16 brass bolts and put a jamb nut on top to secure the hold down bolts vertical and centered. Put the seal on the toilet and drop the bowl into position. Fasten down the bowl, and then install the tank nice and level.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

These flange post are getting old. Flange sits over the finished FLOOR!!!!! :wallbash::drink::yes:


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