# Help me hotwire my dryer!



## Chemist1961 (Dec 13, 2008)

Have you checked the board for damaged solder joints?


----------



## mpj111 (Apr 29, 2008)

There is a sensor when you open the lid. May be it ditect as open lid. Find the sensor attached to the lid (or door). Try to by pass it. 
Then try the machine again.


----------



## GE JIM (Sep 30, 2008)

I would also think bad solder joints...10 years is about it for most appliances these days...Time for a new one Jonny....


----------



## TheNiceGuy (Sep 8, 2008)

Thanks for the replys.
The whole board is waterproof, as in encased in silicon gell or something, so I can't check those contacts.
Is there a way to just hook power directly to the motor and heaters? I can clearly see which wires do that. Can I just join the power wires to those manualy when I need to use the dryer?
In the pic you can see the wires, and they all unplug. So say the orange ones are for the motor, pink and brown for heaters, and the black ones are for power, can't I just buy an adapter and directly connect them?
A new dryer will be expensive (long story). And this is more fun!


----------



## rjordan392 (Apr 28, 2005)

FORGET ABOUT IT.

Do yourself a favor for safetys sake and have a repairman check it out. Besides it near time you thought of replacing it and its not expensive. The alternative is a possible fire if you bypass the electronic circuitry. Now that would be expensive. What you want to do is not approved by any electrical organization or civil authority. Are you ready to accept the responsibility and pay for your foolish idea?


----------



## TheNiceGuy (Sep 8, 2008)

Geez, quit the hatin' buster.


----------



## rjordan392 (Apr 28, 2005)

Its not just your life and property you want to take a chance on but what about damage to others property or don't you care? I heard of hotwireing the starter on a car but you're the worlds first to ask about doing the same for an appliance. Get Real.


----------



## Chemist1961 (Dec 13, 2008)

Just given the symptoms, I'm betting a loose or intermitent connection due to vibration.

But Rj makes a good point about your safety and liability.

It's one thing to be confident you have repaired and inrtermittent problem when it's electrical. It's another thing to sleep around one that's not fixed right.


----------



## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

What the hey! Don't you pros recognize a troll in 'Then Nice Guy". We got his IP and other proxy IDs and screen names documented at three different sites.


----------



## TheNiceGuy (Sep 8, 2008)

Chemist1961- That's all I needed to know. Thanks a lot.
GE JIM- thanks for the input, but a reason why would be helpful. my neighbor (who knows absolutely nothing of electronics, DIY, etc, and has been "taken for a ride" several times) said the same thing to me.
mpj111-worth a try.
rjordan392-you appear to have some personality problems if you feel the need to attack someone for asking a polite question in the hopes of learning something. You better pray you come into my area of expertise. I'm usually nice to new people, but I'll make an exception with you.
hvaclover= internet stalker?

I'd appreciate it if *a few* people can check their egos at the door next time and stay on topic. This is silly. I'm done here.


----------



## rjordan392 (Apr 28, 2005)

To all who answered the poster,
My expertise is in fire safety. The poster's question is the most outragious that I have seen on this forum. I have seen many diy projects that showed that the do it yourselfer had limited or no knowledge of what he was doing or getting into. Apparantly he can't handle the truth that this is a foolish Idea. It was not a polite question, it was a dumb question.
Those of you who also answered his post are a little guilty of not reminding him of the dangers of bypassing electronic circuitry. Just say no, the next time this happens. Its one thing to do something wrong but when you expose your neighbors through your own foolishness, then thats another. Any electrical contractor would have told him the same.

And hvaclover, you may be right and he could be a troll.


----------



## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

TheNiceGuy said:


> Chemist1961- That's all I needed to know. Thanks a lot.
> GE JIM- thanks for the input, but a reason why would be helpful. my neighbor (who knows absolutely nothing of electronics, DIY, etc, and has been "taken for a ride" several times) said the same thing to me.
> mpj111-worth a try.
> rjordan392-you appear to have some personality problems if you feel the need to attack someone for asking a polite question in the hopes of learning something. You better pray you come into my area of expertise. I'm usually nice to new people, but I'll make an exception with you.
> ...




I know a troll when I see one and this ain't the first or last time i have caught you in the act.

But at least my dryer works.


----------



## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

i'm a luddite. what's a troll in computer speak??


----------



## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Google it for a full description


----------



## brazilnut8898 (Aug 30, 2011)

On some models it can indeed be done, and safely. Look up "How I hotwired my kenmore dryer." I created this video to demonstrate how. I brought my dryer back twenty years in technology to the golden age of appliances before integrated circuits, without bypassing a single safety mechanism. http://youtu.be/6pbertdwHnQ


----------



## brazilnut8898 (Aug 30, 2011)

*Sure you can.*

http://youtu.be/6pbertdwHnQ

This is really a job for a qualified electrician though.


----------



## Idmason60 (May 17, 2010)

Congratulation on a true DIY conversion of a automatic dryer to a more conventional one which we all used for years safely. The main issue with any DIY project is safety and it seems you have not bypassed any of the safety features in your 
conversion. My mission in todays appliances is to buy them with as few electronic boards on them as possible. Todays manufactures are mandated by the government to save energy with new appliances . Many have accomplished this by adding sensitive controls and variable heating systems so can meet those mandates using the same running gear used for 50 years. They added electronic boards and sensors that can't be repaired,difficult to trouble shoot 
and are usually expensive to replace, wiping any savings in energy gains by those very same devices. I personally think making things simple and less expensive to repair 
is a far better energy savings system then filling out dumps with broken appliances and buying new ones.

Good luck with your conversion.


----------



## Marbledust (Jun 26, 2010)

TheNiceGuy said:


> Geez, quit the hatin' buster.


 


Johnny.....one fix that has worked over the years....is a clothes line?:yes:


----------



## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

You guys do realize that this thread is 2 years old.:laughing:


----------

