# 45 Degree Wall with Door



## mlbochen (Apr 8, 2013)

I am in the process of remodeling my basement and ran into a small problem that we have not been able to figure out. We have a very tight spot that requires us to frame a door on a 45 degree angle. If I want to put 2 1/4 in trim around the door frame how would we frame this out and have the draywall lay properly as well?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

to conserve as much space as possible in the area, if you have the space on the 45 degree wall then figure about a half inch to an inch of drywall remaining to the inside drywall corner past the outer edge of the the door trim.you can even rip the trim on the inside wall side to fit- I've done it many times in tight basement remodels. 

example, a 30" door would require a 32" rough opening. the door itself would be 29 3/4" and the trim will come onto the jamb within 1/4" from the inside edge. so with 2 1/4" trim the outside edges of the trim will be 35 1/8". for a 1/2" of drywall remaining on the wall past the trim to the inside wall corner the wall plate short point to the 45 degree corner should be 37 1/8". so, add about 1 " past the outer trim dimension per side and with the thickness of the drywall where it turns the corner on the 45 degree you end up right at a 1/2" of drywall for the drywall to the inside corner. that is cutting it pretty close so if you can expand the wall plate size out some past the door it will be easier, but that is easier to say than do in some refined basement spacing situations...

what size door do you want to add into the space?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Got a picture of this opening?
Sometimes you have to rip the casing on one side as a last resort.


----------



## mlbochen (Apr 8, 2013)

Here is a picture of the space/door frame. It is not the best picture but you can see how we got the frame to angle at a 45. However, by doing this it creates a strange space to meet the trim or casing and the draywall. Something just does not seem right on this...


----------



## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Sorry, I dont get it. Why dont you just frame the right wall out to line up with the left wall, and put a short return on it like 4 inches? :huh::huh::huh:

Who framed this, Len the Plumber?


----------



## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

is that the exact rough opening for the door or can you add more framing into the opening?


----------



## mlbochen (Apr 8, 2013)

Yes. That is the exact rough for a 32" door. I guess if I take the door down to a 24" door I can build a little more around the frame giving some addtional room for the door casing.


----------



## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

my example above is for a 30" door, maybe that can help? might have to plan on ripping the trim down for the inside which is totally OK


----------



## MJ Force (Jan 1, 2013)

Here's what I would do. It may require you to dismantle what you've done so far. 

The stability of the door opening is essential, but difficult to achieve on a 'bay-door' opening fastened to concrete. I would suggest larger 2x material for the top/bottom plate. This would eliminate the need for a very small plate in the door opening, which could eventually fail. Using one piece of 2x8* for the bottom plate allows for a stronger transition at the mitre and strengthens the framing for the opening. 

See if my diagram helps. Drawing the layout on the floor first may help in your planning and will help to determine lumber dimensions









.


----------



## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

that is very smart MJ force and would allow for a stronger plate than would otherwise be there. just rip the plate down to 3 1/2" where you show the dotted lines and follow the 45 degree around with the rip. the use of construction adhesive is recommended as well... another way is to just pad it inward until desired opening is achieved with treated studs that go to the floor without the plate under them and use the strength of the straight wall with the bottom plate angle cut to hold the studs in place along with glue.


----------



## MJ Force (Jan 1, 2013)

Yup construction adhesive under the plate would work. Sometimes a concrete anchor is not practical if the floor is thin. 
Regarding ripping down to 3 1/2; That could cause the plate, under the cripple of the opening, to split. If a wide sole plate in the utility room isn't a problem I would leave it. But if you have to rip it down, get the glue under there. 
Also a bi-fold door may work here too if there isn't a fire code issue with the utility room or a noise issue . In a finished basement a bifold door looks more like a closet rather than a door to a utility room.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Where's the top plates?
Is that a pressure treated bottom plate?
Got to make sure that door is wide enought to get that water heater out if it fails.
What's up with that ladder looking framing?


----------

