# 2x4 door installed in 2x6 wall



## woodworkbykirk

unless they were ordered specifically for 2x6 framing they wont come that way.. they just need to be furred out. .its pretty simple.. you just need some pine or mdf to create jamb extensions


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## joecaption

Need to make what's called jamb extensions.
Going to need a table saw to rip them to the needed depth.
It's just strips of wood just wide enough to bring the jamb out even with the sheetrock.
Put the cut side toward the jambs.
Do not try and make them even with the jamb, leave a tiny exposure on all sides.


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## Bud Cline

Yup..."jamb extensions" is the thing to do. It's done all of the time. Not a big deal.

The doors that "whack the drywall" are also an easy fix. Just install swing limiters on the hinges.

Did you send the others down the road for some reason or did they abandon you and your project on their own?

I just don't see any problems that contractors don't deal with on a regular basis, none of this is a big deal.


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## vlslinkman

You guys are so awesome! And super fast responses too!

So, forgive my ignorance but will I want to take off the existing side jambs to furr it out or just remove the hinges and mount those on the extensions? Any ideas for the threshold since the flooring is already in place? Or can I just nail the extension piece directly onto the wood floors, thus covering the gap which would be great! 

Also, we're in central Virginia, FYI. I was too small potatoes for my contractors and supplier. They moved onto bigger and better projects and sort of left us in a lurch. We're diy and some subcontracting for our new home construction. It's been a little more than we bargained for! 

Thanks again!!


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## kwikfishron

woodworkbykirk said:


> unless they were ordered specifically for 2x6 framing they wont come that way..


I can't even remember when ordering doors that the question of jamb width wasn't mentioned.

Basic details that have to be answered before any door order is even accepted. Jamb width, swing, dbl or single bore , threshold type and brickmold (or not).

A builder installing 4-9/16" jamb doors in a 2x6 wall is just stupid.


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## joecaption

Nothing gets removed to add the extensions.
Post a picture, there should be no gap at the threshold if the flooring was installed correctly.


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## ron45

You cannot just add extensions to the french doors. If you do the door will hit the extension instead of the drywall. The door jamb must be brought back and even with the drywall, the extension is added to the outer side and abuts to the brick mold.
They do sell jam extension kits...


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## oh'mike

ron45 said:


> You cannot just add extensions to the french doors. If you do the door will hit the extension instead of the drywall. The door jamb must be brought back and even with the drywall, the extension is added to the outer side and abuts to the brick mold.
> They do sell jam extension kits...


Yep---your inswing french doors are going to need removing--then the brick molding on the out side will be removed---a threshold extension applied--

At this time the door can be reinstalled with the hing side set flush to the drywall.

the jamb extensions will be applied to the outside--then a new brick molding.

Major screw up on the builders side----do not accept the work if the door hinge side is not flush to the drywall---the door will not swing open.


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## vlslinkman

HUGE lesson learned here, but I still have to make it work. I'm going to try to post pics. Wish me luck!


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## vlslinkman

I'm uploading an inside picture showing the interior part of the jamb and an outside picture showing my dilemma of uninstalling the whole thing to add jamb extensions. What a pickle!

Thanks!

Now that I stand here and look at it, I think my best bet is to remove the door and install with jamb extensions, but I think that'll have to wait until after we move in and the deck is built! That door is a beast!

Thanks everyone for your time and advice! I'll put the hinge stops in until I can fix the jambs. Y'all are awesome!!


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## kwikfishron

vlslinkman said:


> I'm uploading an inside picture showing the interior part of the jamb and an outside picture showing my dilemma of uninstalling the whole thing to add jamb extensions. What a pickle!
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Now that I stand here and look at it, I think my best bet is to remove the door and install with jamb extensions, but I think that'll have to wait until after we move in and the deck is built! That door is a beast!
> 
> Thanks everyone for your time and advice! I'll put the hinge stops in until I can fix the jambs. Y'all are awesome!!


The problem you have now is that the door won't open much past 90 deg. Try to open it anymore than that and you'll ripping the hinges off the frame. 

A really bad setup if you have kids around and jamb extensions will not fix that.


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## joecaption

I see a couple of other possible issues, forgive me if I'm wrong, just going by what I think I'm seeing from those angled pictures.
#1, Looks like they used an LVL for the ledger, can not do that unless it's a special pressure treated one or is completely covered up with some form of waterproofing.
#2, Looks way to close to the doors threshold. That decking should be no closer then 2" from the bottom of the threshold.
#3, It would be interesting to see how they flashed under that door, I set all mine in sill pans. There should have been some form of flashing covering the bottom and up the walls at least 12"
#4, Not seeing any support under the threshold, I use 1 X vinyl lumber trim head screwed to the wall. No support under the threshold and it's going to bend in the middle and crack the seal on the outside edges.
#5, That bottom door looks like it has flat jambs, if it is it's installed wrong.
There should have been vinyl brick moulding install to the door before the door went in
Window tape wrapped around the opening Caulking around the backside of the brick moulding, then install it. Once in place there should have been a piece of Z moulding over just the top of the brick moulding, cut so the two ends could be tabbed over to keep water from getting in the joint.
Then the sides get J moulding before the siding went on.
#6, wall should have been water proofed behind that ledger, and no house wrap does not count as water proofing.
#7, Ledger should have been shimmed out away from the side of the wall, 1 X 4" PVC works great, it's cut to the width of the ledger and installed vertical.
#8, Not seeing any flashing over the ledger and up the wall.
#9, How did they install that ledger? Not seeing any fasteners?
I understand Mikes thinking about his suggestion about resetting the door even with the sheetrock so the door will swing, but it opens up a whole new set of what I think is more important issues with the water sealing outside.
That would make the sill also set to far back into the opening and leave a flat area for water to get in under the sill. 
About the only way to sort of take care of it would be to install a piece of vinyl lumber under the door making sure it sticks out beyond the sheathing enough to overhang the needed support under it that gets attached to the wall.


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## jogr

Why in the world are you accepting this?? Doors and windows are far too expensive to accept a wrong order. Tell the contractor and supplier to get you the right size doors and windows!!!!!!


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## danpik

three options here in my view. 

1 Replace the door with the proper jamb size 

2 Remove the existing door and brick mold, set the door flush with the inside wall, add jamb extension to the outside to be able to re-install brick mold.

3 remove old hinges and install these. http://www.hardwaresource.com/hinges/DOOR+HINGES/Wide+Throw+Hinges+-+Swing+Clear+Hinges/Wide+Throw+Butt+Hinge%2C++Steel


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## vlslinkman

Once again, you guys are awesome! Just a little more background: we had no idea what we were getting into when we started this project 3 years ago. Yes, that's 3 years ago. We hired sub contractors that apparently suck and after it all, they've moved on to bigger and better things. We didn't really know how bad it would be BC we didn't have a clue how bad it was. We're an electrician, that assures me he knows everything about construction but had commercial experience, a pharma director turned stay at home mom/GC and 3 kids so, needless to say, we didn't have a clue what we were getting into. However, we are very handy with proper instruction so I think we can make it nice but unfortunately, there's no going back. It's a 4000 sq ft home we've managed this far for about 75k. Not bad, even if schisty. 

Nonetheless, I think I'm going to put in the super huge hinges until the deck is built then I'll take out the doors and fix the jambs. 

Good news is that there is brick molding around the doors on the exterior and the deck ledger is a treated board(s), not LVL but it's not really mounted yet with bolts or supports so that still needs to be done. The supplier guy stopped returning my phone calls shortly after the items were installed by my framer and one day my framer just got all his stuff and left. I think I still owed him like $800-1000, so whatever. I've since tried to bring other "friends" in here to give me advice but they've charged me $$ "for gas" which is bs and I've gotten way more help here in the last 48 hours without gas money . Have I told you all how awesome you are??

So, I'm going to have to let this one fester until after we move in... Did I say that all 5 of us are temporarily staying in my mother's townhouse basement? Yes, it's been a very looong 3 years.

Thank you all so much for your time and advice, it really is priceless!!! I cannot tell you how much we were screwed over by drywallers!!

You all ROCK!
V


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## oh'mike

Option 3 will not work--longer hinges have a longer throw--the operating door will hit the fixed one.


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## vlslinkman

Touché! I guess I'll have to live with door stops for a little while.

Thanks!!


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## oh'mike

Reset the door so it is flush with the drywall-------should only take 4 or 5 hours--for two men---

Just curious--why are you keeping the miss ordered door?


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## hand drive

when re setting that exterior door in flush to drywall you will need a threshold extension too that locks into the outer portion of threshold and extends it out 2". if you have a brown threshold it is called bronze when you order it


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## landfillwizard

Who designed the home? Who ordered the windows and doors? Is the contractor insured? These mistakes for the windows and doors should have never happened! If the contractor had any brains when the windows and doors arrived, he should have sent them back! Also the things the joecaption saw should have never been constructed. If the designer had taken the time to inspect the home these should have been found!


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## cibula11

If you can only reuse the door and cannot send them back and get ones to fit a 2x6 jamb, then I might suggest removing the brick moulding and added the extensions to the exterior side of the door. When they are furred out to the proper depth, add the brick moulding back on. You could even use a vinyl/pvc trim piece and caulk the seam to make it weather proof. Doing it this way would allow you to move the door back towards the interior, so you're not having to mortise new hinges and nothing else would need to be changed on the interior. just a thought


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