# How tight to turn piping (galvanized)



## profenx (Aug 23, 2009)

Hi ppl!

I had to replace a 1/2" FIP angle stop today. It's attached to galvanized nipple. There was no space to grip the nipple, so it came off with the angle stop. I need to know how tight i should tighten the nipple back in place. I hand tightened it then used a wrench until it was pretty tight but did not put my weight onto it. I used teflon tape on the threads. I really can't see if there is a leak cuz it's in the wall. Do plumber knock the wall out to install these? 

I also am not sure how tight to tighten the angle stop. Looking at the angle stop it has maybe 8-10 threads. Should I tighten it until the tip of the pipe hits the end of the angle stopper? How do you guys get it so the outlet is facing up like it's suppose to? Does it by chance end up that way when it's completely tightened? 

Last question ... angle stop came with 2 washers and a rubber thing. I'm not sure where this should be placed. Could someone tell me where to put them?

Thanks!


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## braindead (May 31, 2010)

>>>Last question ... angle stop came with 2 washers and a rubber thing. I'm not sure where this should be placed. Could someone tell me where to put them?<<<

That would take too much guessing, can you post a picture? :huh:


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## plumberinlaw (Feb 22, 2010)

Did you use a longer nipple so you can grip it next time?


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## NHMaster (Dec 21, 2009)

Get a longer nipple


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## profenx (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks for replies!



















Here are the pictures. 

I just took the plate covering the hole off instead of getting a longer nipple. I should of have gotten a longer nipple huh? It leaked slightly yesterday so I tightened it a quarter turn, but now the outlet is on the side and not up. The washer and rubber thing I didn't use. The guy at home depot said it was for older stiff supply lines. I'm not too confident with his answers. Looked all over the web and the box didn't say anything about using them. Is it common knowledge? 

I'll switch out the next one with longer nipple. Still wondering how much to turn the angle stop in. It's maybe only half way in. Not sure if the nipple to pipe is sealed. I turned it tighter than the angle stop. Should I cut a bigger hole in the wall to find out or is there something else i could use?

One more thing ... anyone have any good ideas how to take the angle stop out without taking the nipple out? I'm going to try heating the angle stop ... don't have a torch but I do have a candle. Will this work? On the cold line it won't budge and I hear this creaking when I try to turn it. The line I replaced yesterday also took a lot of muscle.

Thanks guys!


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## profenx (Aug 23, 2009)

i stuck a hanger wire along the small crack under the nipple and slid it to the end. I didn't see any water on the end of it so hopefully it is sealed. I think i'll make a bigger whole. I can always cover it up. The vanity is a cabinet cover everything so I don't really think i need the metal cover for the nipple. It doesn't have any real function does it?


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## Docwhitley (Jul 19, 2010)

Remove it and spend a couple more dollars and do it right.

Remove the valve and the nipple... Get the good Teflon tape (Not the stuff from the bargain bin) and some dope. Run the tape around the threads for 3 wraps. Tip i always leave the fist thread a little bit reveled to make starting easier. Next and this was the part you were missing. Put Pipe dope on the tape. The dope will help seal the threads and that is especially important with Galvanized pipe. I Personally hate close nipples so maybe go with a longer one. How do i make sure it is going to face up??? After a lot of Practice I know for for up to tape and when i hit the end of my tape I know I have 1 more full turn to get the valve where I want it


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## profenx (Aug 23, 2009)

wow ... thanks for the info.
Pipe dope ... i looked it up at home depot and all they have are rectorseal pipe thread sealant and rectorseal teflon pipe thread sealant. Are these pipe dope? which one is better?

I'm gonna have to go back in and rip the pipe out again ... good experience i guess. I did 3 or 4 rounds of teflon tape, but i kinda pulled the tape so it kind of stretched. is this ok?

So you turn the pipe and angle stop or whatever you are screwing in til the tape is no longer visible then give it a full turn after? I still have tape showing.

Thanks! I'll give it a try morrow after work.


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## Docwhitley (Jul 19, 2010)

I pull it tight also... I have never messed with Rectorseal... Reminds me to much of a Shirt I had in the Military

Medical terms in layman Language or something like that one of the lines was
Rectum..... Rectum nope damn near killed him

Anyway... I think you will want the Non teflon I am about hopefully someone can correct me if I am wrong... Anyone???? Help!!!

The rules for turning works for me because I am able to look at the fittings and know how much goes in... It comes from doing it a lot... You will likely have tape and dope showing. I am pretty anal... The letters on my pipe is even lined up on jobs. When I trained I had a Master that made me measure my PVC and CPVC fitting on how much would be in the pipe the put Painters tape around the Pipes so 1/8 th of an inch of primer or glue would show them I had to peel the tape when we were done so it all looked good. So I learned to measure or judge measurements pretty good.


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## profenx (Aug 23, 2009)

so any idea on what the rubber thing and washers are for? I can't find anywhere that mentions where they go. 

Got a 5" nipple. Still haven't installed. Wondering if the ptfe dope and teflon is ok? I found oakley? ptfe thread sealer. It's what the person handed me at HD. Is there a difference which to use? can i use it with teflon tape? or is it meant as a replacement instead of using both?

Also still wondering if you guys turn it all the way in til the nipple hits the end of the angle stop. I had it in 1/4 turned and didn't leak at the nipple/angle stop. I think another turn to tighten more and have the outlet end facing up would be ok. Doc, seems like you screw it til the end of the teflon tape?

Thanks!


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## Docwhitley (Jul 19, 2010)

Ok here is how you need to do it

Wrap the threads with tape about 3 turns you want to wrap them so they do not come off when tightening it then cover the the tape with Pipe dope. now you are ready to install (forgot to tell you to leave the 1st thread open ... no tape or dope. Put the nipple in and turn clockwise. If it does not catch turn counter clock wise till you feel it click then turn it clockwise... It should tighten then. I would say you are going to make 5-6 turns. you should feel it get tight then another 1/4 to half turn.


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## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

Docwhitley said:


> Ok here is how you need to do it
> 
> Wrap the threads with tape about 3 turns you want to wrap them so they do not come off when tightening it then cover the the tape with Pipe dope. now you are ready to install (forgot to tell you to leave the 1st thread open ... no tape or dope. Put the nipple in and turn clockwise. If it does not catch turn counter clock wise till you feel it click then turn it clockwise... It should tighten then. I would say you are going to make 5-6 turns. you should feel it get tight then another 1/4 to half turn.


 
I think what Doc meant to say was hand tighten the nipple (w/o a wrench) then 5- 6 turns with a pipe wrench. Unfortunatly, the chineese pipe fittings do not have the quality of made in the USA pipe fittings. I find with the crap import stuff that you will turn the pipe to the proper tightness, then at the final turn, the pipe is loose. Then you get to tighten the pipe a bit more. With experience you will not need to count the 5-6 turns to tight, you just turn the pipe and fittings to what feels right. We do not use tape and dope on threaded connections. We use pipe dope only, but the dope we use, Permabond is not cheap. But with Permabond we can adjust the fitting and do not need to worry about washout of the pipe dope.


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## Docwhitley (Jul 19, 2010)

fireguy said:


> I think what Doc meant to say was hand tighten the nipple (w/o a wrench) then 5- 6 turns with a pipe wrench. Unfortunatly, the chineese pipe fittings do not have the quality of made in the USA pipe fittings. I find with the crap import stuff that you will turn the pipe to the proper tightness, then at the final turn, the pipe is loose. Then you get to tighten the pipe a bit more. With experience you will not need to count the 5-6 turns to tight, you just turn the pipe and fittings to what feels right. We do not use tape and dope on threaded connections. We use pipe dope only, but the dope we use, Permabond is not cheap. But with Permabond we can adjust the fitting and do not need to worry about washout of the pipe dope.



Fire guy,

I had some Permabond on a Black steel fitting and it took a 3 foot Pipe wrench to break it free!!!! I hate when I go to a job and see it  But, it is great stuff


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## profenx (Aug 23, 2009)

Thanks! I guess i'll have to do a lot of these til i actually get the feel. This house is about 60 years old. Is there any chance there is copper plumbing that has a union with a threaded end? It was raining today and I went to check my water heater outside. It looks like copper pipes coming from the walls and then a threaded union and some galvanized pipe and then back to copper. When I pulled out the galvanized nipple there was corrosion in the pipe and the 90 degree union in the wall. I can't see what kind of pipe it is. Is galvanized steel ever soldered? By the look of it ... i think i'll have pipe dope and tape showing anyways. It won't bother me though. 

Thanks for the replies guys! still would like to know what the washer and rubber thing is for on the angle stop.


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