# Priming after Wallpaper removal



## Windows (Feb 22, 2010)

http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/prime-after-wallpaper-removal-86137/


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## sychopants (Oct 19, 2010)

I used Gardz on my wall, it is to seal any residual glue and basically glues the wall together. After that you can use any primer you want, Zinsser 123 is good, and then paint!


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## homohabilis (Nov 18, 2010)

Forget Zinnzer. Glidden won't give me a business account, credit, or sell to me as a contractor because my business goes by word of mouth and I don't need to advertise. I want tips on non-Zinnzer products. I want an oil base primer that brushes smooth. No sanding, no skim coat.


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## DesigningWoman (Oct 29, 2010)

Congratulations on removing the wallpaper, homohabilis! That is a tough enough job. Since you were able to remove most of the glue, I’d play it safe and use an oil-based primer. I have had great success with the Kilz brand. The “ORIGINAL” formula is their original stainblocking primer. For “COMPLETE” formula is ideal for most interior and exterior surfaces. The “ODORLESS” is has ultra low odor.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

homohabilis said:


> Forget Zinnzer. Glidden won't give me a business account, credit, or sell to me as a contractor because my business goes by word of mouth and I don't need to advertise. I want tips on non-Zinnzer products. I want an oil base primer that brushes smooth. No sanding, no skim coat.


 
Forget Glidden and go elsewhere:yes:
What does Glidden and Zinser have in common anyway?:huh:


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## jlynpa (Dec 5, 2010)

*primer*

I'm sure you've already gotten what you are going to get, but we used Bulls Eye 1-2-3 and it worked great for us. We had quite the mess as you can read about if you want  even had wallpaper on the ceiling!

Wallpaper on The Ceiling


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## mikehicks (Dec 25, 2010)

I'll add my 2 cent's worth here, I've been a wallpaper hanger for the last 35 years, so I know whats going on here. First off, you really need to get ALL the glue off if you want to paint the wall. If you don't, it may crackell or just look really bad later when the paint is applied. Get the glue wet with a spray bottle with just water and a little dish soap, and spray it, and sponge it off. Then prime it with the Kilz mentioned already. Then you'll have a good base to paint.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

A couple things to consider. If you get *ALL* the glue off the wall and the surface was painted before, you are good to go. If the surface was not painted or primed before the wallpaper then you really should prime with oil. Guards is ok, but it is a water based product and will reactivate any residual glue left on the surface or any that has soaked into the wall.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Matthewt1970 said:


> A couple things to consider. If you get *ALL* the glue off the wall and the surface was painted before, you are good to go. If the surface was not painted or primed before the wallpaper then you really should prime with oil. Guards is ok, but it is a water based product and will reactivate any residual glue left on the surface or any that has soaked into the wall.


Not to argue with you but it says here that Gardz will SEAL residual PASTE not reactivate it. It has been my experience that this is true.

http://www.triarchinc.com/fileshare/doc/TriarchProductDocs/GARDZ_DataSheet.pdf


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## Sprayboy (Oct 21, 2009)

chrisn said:


> Not to argue with you but it says here that Gardz will SEAL residual PASTE no reactivate it. It has been my experience that this is true.
> 
> http://www.triarchinc.com/fileshare/doc/TriarchProductDocs/GARDZ_DataSheet.pdf






+1:whistling2:


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

*Priming after Wallpaper Removal*

I used GARDZ (per ChrisN guidance) after stripping painted wallpaper back to bare plaster walls (house built 1913). After cleaning & sealing the walls with GARDZ, I had slick, smooth walls (bare plaster, mind you). It's been 1-1/2 years and THE WALLS ARE BEAUTIFUL. People have been quite amazed and thought it was done by a professional. I informed them an amature did it with the guidance of a PRO. I highly recommend you follow the advice of Chris.  You will be surprised.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I have seen it reativate wallpaper glue. It's a water based product and wallpaper glue is activated with water. We used it on a section of wall that still had a little wall paper on it just a few weeks ago. It was a small section and the home owner didn't want to pay to have it stripped. We probably should have just done it for her anyways, but the Guards went on and within minutes the paper had bubbles all over it and it would lift off with little effort. Most of the bubbles went down but as soon as we put paint over it the bubbles came right back.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

Matthewt1970 said:


> I have seen it reativate wallpaper glue. It's a water based product and wallpaper glue is activated with water. We used it on a section of wall that still had a little wall paper on it just a few weeks ago. It was a small section and the home owner didn't want to pay to have it stripped. We probably should have just done it for her anyways, but the Guards went on and within minutes the paper had bubbles all over it and it would lift off with little effort. Most of the bubbles went down but as soon as we put paint over it the bubbles came right back.


I have seen it before too. I've seen it after wallpaper stripping and then applying a water base primer, a water base primer will activate any wallpaper residue left behind and cause crackling, bubbling, flaking paint. I've also seen it happen on older plaster. That's why I use a fast dry oil primer to prime and seal walls after a wallpaper strip and also on older plaster walls before painting them with a water base paint. I don't want to take a chance of activating any left over residue, because then it will cost more in the long run.


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## jimofalltrades (Feb 23, 2016)

I have had multiple successes with washing the walls best I can, spackling/sanding where needed, then using Kilz Max. Naturally, absolutely all of the paste will not be removed, so you must work fast. While rolling, if you let your wet edge sit for too long (10-15 seconds) and it is over some residue, you will have it roll up on you and an unwanted texture. In this case, scrape off the lifted residue and let it dry (start on another wall and come back) before starting again. With this method, sometimes I have tinted the primer and a homeowner was fine with it (Kilz Max does leave a satin-like finish - less than eggshell). **Note that tinting the primer does diminish the stain-blocking properties of the primer. 

So I shut off/out any outside disturbances (that would cause me to stop while rolling), work fast and I get away with rolling once (when homeowner is good with it). When my older customers are pinching pennies, this works well. And I am not kidding, you do have only 10-15 seconds on a wet edge. You will be done priming / painting the room in no time (out of necessity!)

Cheers!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Gardz is MADE for this, Kilz is not.


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## jimofalltrades (Feb 23, 2016)

Agreed on GARDZ! I tried Kilz Max initially because it claimed to be like an oil based primer in water based form. Tinted the color to Navajo White, and after finding out the quick pace needed, the customer was happy with the one pass, and the price reflected, as opposed to the 3-5 step that is suggested. 
This is not for those not comfortable with painting at a fast pace for sure! And as OCD as I am about my work, I was happy with the results.
Method works well on half tiled bathroom walls, 8 foot ceiling rooms, but never on a two-story stair foyer... wouldn't paint fast enough.


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