# Awning on the side of metal building



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Cut the siding and slip the flashing behind it???


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

You don't say if the metal is installed vertically or horizontally . If it is vertical I agree with Nealtw to cut and install flashing under the metal and onto the awning roof . If the metal is installed horizontally how close is the closest horizontal seam ? You may be able to remove screws and slip under the flashing .


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

I have installed three small awnings and I never tried to seal
the awning itself to the building ~ but ~ made a large drip edge 
mounted to the top of the door frame to divert any water to the sides.
if that is not an option, I would use High Density Urethane (HDU)
and carve/cut the building profile and make a filler to go between the
building and the awning and fill it with elastomeric caulk.
(HDU is what exterior signs are made of and is very weatherproof
once properly primed and painted. [not MDO - but HDU]).
#1: where are you located
#2: how big is the awning
#3: are you installing the awning yourself or having it done
#4: are you talking about flashing the whole awning or just over a door ??
#5: if it is already installed, can you provide photos of your concerns ?
#6: more info will greatly help us help you.

if you take a "Walk About" around your town, you will see that
probably nobody ever goes through the step of what you are describing.
go check out other awnings around you that are similar in design.

.

.


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## HenryMac (Sep 12, 2018)

Squidbillyms,

I agree with Johnny_inFL.... Post up some photo's.

Look at the other doors and windows on the building. See the J trim above them? That's how the factory would specify it to be done (see detail below).

But in your case, are you really that concerned about some minor leakage?

I'd hate to cut through the existing building steel if I didn't have to.

Once the siding is in place, the only "easy" way to cut the steel is with an abrasive cut off wheel, that voids the warranty in most cases. It can also be a fire hazard.. lots of sparks during the cutting operation.

If you're just adding the awning for shade, and / or you don't really care about some leakage.. use some Deck2wall Spacers (see photo below). Here's a link: https://www.deck2wallspacer.com/


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

Billy ~ while at my local Pawn Shop today, I looked at their
awning closely . . . . and there is a drip edge over the door.
and that is all. it is the common vertical panel steel building.
I noticed some trees in the near vicinity and it dawned on me
that if you flash or seal the areas as you are considering,
I am only imagining that leaves, twigs, dead birds, and all kinds
of unwanted junk will accumulate in that junction and "could"
very possibly lend premature failure to the awning wrap and 
escalating rust to the building's panels. something to really
think about before you get too involved in your flashing process.
again - all I recommend is a large drip edge over the door only
to divert rain water to the sides.
looking forward to seeing your project (from a fellow Squid).

and the building next door was also the same type building
and they had a metal awning system that had quite a downward
slant to it.
so now is another question - - - will your awning be all metal ??
or pipe frame with a canvas cover ??
and - how far above the door will it be ?

.

.


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## Squidbilly (Sep 4, 2012)

Thanks for your responses. Sorry for the delay. I have attached pictures of the building and awning.

#1: where are you located: 
*South MS*
#2: how big is the awning: 
*GeneralAwnings.com*
*60" wide x 48" projection over single door
84" wide x 48" projection over double doors*
#3: are you installing the awning yourself or having it done: 
*We are going to do it ourselves*
#4: are you talking about flashing the whole awning or just over a door??
*Over the whole awning*
#5: if it is already installed, can you provide photos of your concerns ?
*Seeking info before buying/installing ... see below*
#6: more info will greatly help us help you.

We installed the windows in our metal building so we are familiar with j trim. I am "really, really" hesitant to cut into the metal for any reason so I will have to consider other options ... just trying to figure out what they are.


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## Squidbilly (Sep 4, 2012)

Also, just wanted to add that the awnings are an aluminum frame with polycarbonate clear sections.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

Billy - I totally agree with not cutting the building.
if it were mine, there is no way in the world I would cut into it.
an alternative to the HDU would be the 1.5" blue or pink insulation
foam board from your local Box Store. it is easy to cut and shape
with common wood tools (jig saw) to fit the profile of the building.
that is if you really want to completely seal the gap between the awning
and the building. that would eliminate putting more holes and
screws into the building skin than necessary as the foam will be
a pressure fit and sealed with elastomeric caulk. (no fasteners).
once primed and painted with exterior latex paint, it will last for 
many years with very little maintenance. cut to fit and caulk into 
place with elastomeric caulk, prime and paint to match the building color.
the only problem that I see with that is on long sections, you may
have to hire a trained Orangutan Monkey to do the caulking and painting.
let us know what you end up doing - as this subject may come up
again in the future.

.

.


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## HenryMac (Sep 12, 2018)

Johnny_inFL said:


> ... an alternative to the HDU would be the 1.5" blue or pink insulation foam board


Birds just love to peck holes in that foam board. Something more permanent would be better, IMHO.

Here's a photo of some pressure treated lumber that has been contoured to fit steel siding.

I'm a big fan of using composite decking in these types of applications.


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## Squidbilly (Sep 4, 2012)

What about using foam closure strips since they are made to seal a flat surface against the corrugations in the metal?


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## HenryMac (Sep 12, 2018)

Those are made to go on the other side of the steel...


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## Squidbilly (Sep 4, 2012)

HenryMac said:


> Those are made to go on the other side of the steel...


Thanks. I was speaking of the outside closure strips that you use on top of the metal but beneath a ridge cap.


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## HenryMac (Sep 12, 2018)

I've got those on my barn, but they are the type that are like a scotchbrite pad so they can breathe.

Sure, the foam type would work... but I'm just not sure they'll hold up very long. Having something like composite decking material, with caulk, will be much more rigid / permanent.


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