# Can I make these scrapes better?



## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

Connie sideswiped the garage opening last night.


I'm not a 'car' person but I am sort of handy.


I'm not sure how well these images convey the problem but if they do, is there a method of buffing/rubbing the swipes to reduce their presence w/o making matters a whole lot worse?


Mark


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

If its the paint from the garage jamb on there, you probably could get some of that off. If its scratched thru the car's paint, not much to do. Either way use rubbing compound.


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## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

Rubbing compound--got it.


By hand or drill motor attachment? If drill, which setting--Screw or Drill, High or Low and within high and low, 1-12?


Mark


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

In the good ole days there was a definite difference between rubbing and polishing compound and usually stated that on the DuPont can label. I always estimated the difference as being like 120 grit sand paper and 600 grit. I doubt you would want rubbing.:wink2:


If paint was removed possibly get a bottle of touch up paint and use polishing compound after that application cures. The car dealer or manufacturer should be able to supply the exact color name of the paint. If paint was removed to bare metal of course rust will present itself in short order.



My wife ran over a point of my miter saw base and blew a Rt. Front tire but that was a easy fix.

New tire.:vs_mad:


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

I'd do it by hand or with an orbital buffer. There are different coarseness rubbing compounds. You can start with a medium, and then finish with fine and then a polish... then wax it all. Hard to tell for sure from the pics but I think most of that should, to use a cliche, buff out.


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

Never a drill, but as Raylo says ^^


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

The paint color code should on one of the stickers on the driver side door.

You can buy the repair kits online which would include the clear coat.


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## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*



raylo32 said:


> I'd do it by hand or with an orbital buffer. There are different coarseness rubbing compounds. You can start with a medium, and then finish with fine and then a polish... then wax it all. Hard to tell for sure from the pics but I think most of that should, to use a cliche, buff out.



Is an orbital buffer the same tool as my orbital sander?


If so, would Walmart sell buffing pads that are specifically for the orbital?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

Can't answer that, I don't have your tool. But you want some sort of micro fiber pad, and a base, like rubber, that has some give. And you might want to compare its RPM to an auto buffer... You don't want to go at it too hard and burn through your paint.



markg22B said:


> Is an orbital buffer the same tool as my orbital sander?
> 
> 
> If so, would Walmart sell buffing pads that are specifically for the orbital?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

You start with lots of water and 1200 grit wet or dry sand paper. Proceed to 3000 grit. Only then you do rubbing compound and then polish it over. 

Don't go straight for rubbing compound. Wet or dry kits are sold in parts stores for about $6 a pack. Very handy.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

Might work, but I'll just say that's not the way I would approach this. If the "scratches" are mostly just deposits from whatever rubbed onto the paint there is no need to be sanding anything.



ukrkoz said:


> You start with lots of water and 1200 grit wet or dry sand paper. Proceed to 3000 grit. Only then you do rubbing compound and then polish it over.
> 
> Don't go straight for rubbing compound. Wet or dry kits are sold in parts stores for about $6 a pack. Very handy.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

You can probably find touch up paint online, but its very difficult for a layman to put it on so that its not almost as visible as the original scratch. I would try the rubbing compound first.


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## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*

I will do rubbing compound first.


It's been a really long time... does it matter (like with wood grain and stainless grain) whether you rub back/forth or circular?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

If you ever have scratches deep enough to need touch up paint (I can't tell from pics if you have any real scratches?) you can use this "blob eliminator" kit to get it smooth before doing progressively finer sanding. This stuff is basically a solvent that you rub on gently before the paint sets up hard and smooths it right out without stripping it all off.

http://www.langka.com/index.php/featured-products/blob-eliminator


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

A few years back, the "go to" tool for auto detailers was the Porter Cable 7424 random orbital sander / buffer. I have one and used it a few times. It should be able to buff out the paint transfer, assuming you use the right compound and pads.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Problem is that's 2-stage paint. The question is whether the scrapes got through the clear.


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## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

Just one way to tell. She's taken the care for the day so I'll test a small area Saturday or Sunday and see what I see...


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

I've had decent luck with 'scratch remover' (Mothers/McGuire's/Auto Glym) to remove deposited material, which I suspect a lot of that is. I have have absolutely no luck with touch-up paint sticks. That finish is microns thick and you can't seamlessly replicate that with a stick (and least I can't).


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## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

I purchased either Mother's or McGuire's Mild and Medium compounding products yesterday.


But after reading about the Scratch Remover it seems it just a better compounding agent by the same company and instead of needing a 2 step compounding process I'd just use (carefully) the Scratch Remover. No?


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

I just checked my Mothers and it doesn't indicate any grade ("California Gold") - I actually have never noticed difference levels of scratch remover, maybe there are and haven't noticed. I don't really know the difference between between polishing compound and scratch remover.
My wife's Tucson got 'rubbed' a few days ago vs_mad that left a lot of marks similar to yours. I managed to buff out everything except three small spots where the finish has been removed from the plastic bumper. I'll either live with it or see if a shop can touch them up for not a whole lot of money.


Work slowly - patience is your friend.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

*Re: Can I make these scraps better?*



raylo32 said:


> Might work, but I'll just say that's not the way I would approach this. If the "scratches" are mostly just deposits from whatever rubbed onto the paint there is *no need to be sanding anything.*



That's EXACTLY how it worked very well and every time I had to remove scrapes. Wet or dry and lots of water. Lost count how many times. I used ot be real ****ty at parking and tended to hit garage doors.


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## markg22B (Feb 4, 2013)

Thank you to everyone here that helped me through this problem.


The McGuire's Ultimate Compound worked as advertised, like a charm. I was able to remove all of the mess (but for a few small scratches that were to the primer or body and hardly noticeable) with relative ease by hand.


Since no good turn goes unrewarded, when I proudly showed the result of my efforts to Connie, she then said... 'well, what about these! And showed me where the front very low plastic had similar (Why do car companies insist on adding this plastic stuff that's low enough to hit curbing and parking bumpers?!). No matter, I'm on to the challenge ;-).


Mark


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

LOL... funny how women think sometimes! ;-) You can do a pretty good job on plastic. Get a plastic bumper repair kit to fill in deeper scratches. Then use gradually finer sandpaper to smooth it all out. Then paint it and use that "blob eliminator" kit I posted earlier to get out any blobs, runs or brush marks. I have used this method on the bottom of the bumper on my Vette where it got some pretty deep gouges from an encounter with a concrete parking block with very good results.




markg22B said:


> Thank you to everyone here that helped me through this problem.
> 
> 
> The McGuire's Ultimate Compound worked as advertised, like a charm. I was able to remove all of the mess (but for a few small scratches that were to the primer or body and hardly noticeable) with relative ease by hand.
> ...


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