# Drywall rates?



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The quote isn't simply a matter of sq. ft. The onsite conditions will play a part, especially if it's a complicated job.
Ron


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

*Drywall rates? On-site conditions*

Onsite conditions: I've removed all of the former ceiling, so that bare rafters are showing. I.e., there's no old-drywall to remove. I've already installed the electric boxes where I want them. It's ready for someone to come in and start putting drywall in place. The house is on pilings, so, yeah, they'd have to carry the sheets up some stairs to the main floor. But, that's the only thing unusual about the job.

On a side query... while I'm waiting to find someone to do this -- or, to decided whether I should tackle it -- I'd like to cover the rafters with something so that my front room isn't exposed to the attic area. I was thinking about stapling Tyvek to the rafters... would that be okay? Would it have to be removed when the drywalling starts?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Details I was looking for would include:
Size of the area(how many sheets?)
Height of the ceiling?
Soffits? 
Window,door returns?
Type of sheetrock?
-walls
-ceiling

Call in other contractors for an estimate. In my experience, commercial guys charge more then residential contractors.
Ron


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

Area is 44' x 26' .. I estimate 36 sheets of 4' x 8'
Height of the ceiling? 96 inches
Soffits? nope
Window,door returns? nope
Type of sheetrock? mold-resistant
-walls Nope
-ceiling Yes

This is just the ceiling of the large living room area, at 96 inches.

Any opinion about using Tyvek to seal off the rafters?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

So the entire job is ceiling work. Pro's will use 10-12' sheets to minimize the joints.
I see no problem with Tyvek in that application.
Ron

That's $4000.+ for the job. That seems very high to me.


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

Thanks for your comments!

Any comments about DensArmor mold-resistant drywall? If I were trying to avoid possible future mold events, would this be worth installing over paper-backed products?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Robert-in-Texas said:


> Thanks for your comments!
> 
> Any comments about DensArmor mold-resistant drywall? If I were trying to avoid possible future mold events, would this be worth installing over paper-backed products?


Is this job the result of a mold issue? Was this due to a water incident? Mold growth would be unusual in an above the ground environment without some sort of water episode.
I've never used the product myself. I've never had an issue with just moisture resistant sheetrock(greenboard).
Ron


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

Yes, part of the roof came off and there was a lot of water (from rain) that came in through that route, ruining the suspended ceiling that was there. I ripped out the grid and plan to install greenboard or this DenArmor, just in case there is water incursion in the future.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Greenboard is pretty good with water. I'm renovating a vacation house in upstate NY for a customer whose pipes froze last Winter. Water sprayed on the back of the greenboard for a week or so. It's still intact. The paper is still attached and the tiles are still on the front. I was very surprised at it's resilience.
Once I finish the first floor, the second floor will get gutted and cement board installed in the shower, but for now it's the only functioning bath in the house. 
I don't know how well it would have done in your situation though.
Whatever material you chose, the weak link will be the compound, as it's water soluble.
Ron


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## comp1911 (Jul 20, 2007)

I just had my 30'x46' garage ceiling hung, taped, KD textured and painted. 4'x12'x5/8", $2100.


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

Thanks comp1911! I appreciate the photo and the price you paid. $1.52 sq ft is a whole lot cheaper than what I was quoted.


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## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

do those two prices stated above include the price of the rock?? OR just labor ,,,finish materials only???


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

In my case ($4000+ for 44' x 26') was for all labor and materials.


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

iirc I had a project quoted with DensArmor mold-resistant drywall a couple of years back and it was more than double the standard rate due to:

1) cost of material compared to standard drywall

2) finish required a level 5 finish (ALL rock skimmed with mud/sanded, due to the texture of the sheetrock). This is opposed to just taping/mudding the seams/corners.

You may want to check with your drywall contractor and see how it would compare with standard sheetrock before you start thinking you're getting ripped off....just a thought. Doesn't hurt to ask for an explanation.

J


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

Jay123 said:


> You may want to check with your drywall contractor and see how it would compare with standard sheetrock before you start thinking you're getting ripped off....just a thought. Doesn't hurt to ask for an explanation.


The $4000+ quote was for standard drywall.


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

gotcha...keep looking, or have you gotten other estimates already?


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

I'm still trying to find contractors... most in this area are either too busy, or are just Billy-Bob's without insurance... I've had about 7 contractors go through the house to look at it, but only got a bid from one of them. I have someone coming in tomorrow, so, we'll see....


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Can't speak specifically for your area, but around here I normally charge in the $1.75 - $2.00/ft range for smaller jobs such as yours. (Material and labor provided, sanded and ready for paint.) DensArmor DOES require more finishing and costs more than regular board. Also, it is not readily available in longer (12") lengths adding even more finishing. (Also weighs more than regular board.) Thus, another $1.00 or so per foot does not surprise me. Shop around, you'll likely find someone to do it cheaper.....just be sure to get references. And I don't really see a need for DensArmor or green board unless you're EXPECTING recurring water problems. $1.25 -$1.50/ft. would be more the rate for a whole house install, not a repair/remodel.


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## Robert-in-Texas (Oct 28, 2008)

bjbatlanta -- Thanks for your comments... I'm not really expecting recurring water problems, honestly. But I was thinking along the lines of greenboard or DensArmor as a "just in case"... obviously, price is important, so I didn't know if it would be just a little bit more or a lot more. If you think it will double the price, then that's probably prohibitive. But even with standard drywall, and at your highest rate, this job shouldn't cost more than about $2300. I guess I'll just keep getting quotes until someone gets close to that number. 

If I buy a drywall lift, is this the kind of thing I can do? I'm very handy, do all of my maintenance work... built fences, decks, repaired siding, etc.... but other than putting up a couple of 4' x 8' drywall panels a few years ago, and an occasional drywall patch, I've never done anything extensive. I was thinking about lifting and screwing them down (perhaps using Prest-On drywall fasteners) and then hiring someone to come in and do the tape and mud part. You ever see many "handyman homeowners" that have successfuly done part of the work themselves, and it was good enough?


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

ok...now after all this...how does this pertain to d.i.y. ?

J:huh::huh::huh::huh:


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The quotes you're getting seem high. As I said, I don't know the "going rate" in your area. DensArmor would be close to twice as much in my book, green board, just the extra material cost. My guess is there are a lot of drywallers in Texas who have plenty of work after the hurricane and are pricing your job as a "take it or leave it". Using a lift, you could do you could hang it yourself and do an acceptable job I'm sure. Get on CraigsList in your area and see if you can find a finisher to do the mud work.........


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