# Cutting electrical boxes



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Can somebody please shed some light on how the pros handle this (potential) trouble spot when drywalling.

I'm getting ready to drywall my kitchen after the remodel, and the top of my electrical boxes are 49 1/2 inches from the ceiling. So if I go with a horizontal 4x8 sheet, the next sheet below it will have just 1 1/2 inches of drywall above the electrical box. It would seem to me (as an amateur) that this is not a good idea, as that 1 1/2" piece would be likely to be damaged during cutting, or snap off during the install if you're not very carefull. 

If indeed this is a bad idea, or am I just being overcareful, how do you lay out and/or cut the sheets to avoid this situation.

Thanks.


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The boxes should be at least 4-6 inches off of the counter top. Depending on how high the ceiling is, those boxes could be sitting too high.


----------



## gdc (Aug 17, 2014)

*cutting electrical boxes*

hello zzzzz, what I do is take my measurements 1/8" shy of the exact measure. then transfer to the rock. when I cut I would cut that top line first then sides and knife (utility knife ) the bottom line, bend it towards the back, then cut it out with the knife. make sure you cut to the outside of the lines and make sure you put the lines on the face of the rock. you can use a key hole saw or roto zip.

what really is the trick is to spackle around the box.


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

The finisher is going to love you. That will be a PITA. If that is you, you will learn something important this time. 

Hang the rock and zip bit around the box after you hang each sheet. Really! It's no big deal for the hanger.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEWkAIWXaqA


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Yep--If you have a pro hanger,using a rotozip--that will not be a problem.


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Come on Mike, you don't have to be a pro to use a zip bit. You can buy the cheapo from Harbor Freight (if you can still find a 1/8" collet) or even use a Dremel with the right bit.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

oh'mike said:


> Yep--If you have a pro hanger,using a rotozip--that will not be a problem.


I'm an amateur hanger with a Rockwell Sonicraft oscillating tool. That will have to do.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

gregzoll said:


> The boxes should be at least 4-6 inches off of the counter top. Depending on how high the ceiling is, those boxes could be sitting too high.


The boxes are 5" up from the top of the counter (41 1/4" off the tile floor).

The ceiling is 3/4" short of 8'.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I miss read your post--I thought you were hiring the hanging out---

You can do it---A Rotozip is a handy tool---but for a small project--measure and cut works well.

A small tip---if all you are doing is the cabinet area---start with a 2 foot rip at the ceiling---then a full sheet--and a rip near the floor---

the cabinets will hide the seams---the backsplash area will be seamless.


----------



## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

we center the 1 sheet over the plugs so there is no finish work at all on back splash wall.. seams are below base cabinets and behind wall cabinets works for us..:yes::yes:


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Nothing beats an open kitchen....
Determine where your screws will be in the cabinets, and at what height. Transfer those marks to the wall. Center those marks between 6", chalk the 6" marks the length of the walls. Set your circular saw to a 1" depth and cut the lines. Using a hammer and chisel knock out the block and install a 1'x6" running the length.
Never worry about hitting a stud..........


----------



## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Start your sheet centered on the wall so the top edge will be behind your upper cabinets , and your bottom edge will be behind your bottom cabinets. No tape seems anywhere visible or near receptacles. Also, do yourself a favor and buy a rotozip. Even if you do very little drywall work in your life, you'll be glad you have one.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Thanks for all the info guys. :thumbup:


----------



## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

It doesn't matter about the little piece around the box, it happens all the time it can be finished,
A rotozip is the best and fastest way to do it but if you don't know how to use it you can reak havoc on a drywall job
And its a good idea to to start with the top piece so you can push it tight to the ceiling, than cut your bottom sheet ( if needed) a little short and jack it up to the top piece.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ZZZZZ said:


> I'm an amateur hanger with a Rockwell Sonicraft oscillating tool. That will have to do.


With a multitool, you can use a product like this
http://www.amazon.com/Improved-Blind-Mark-Electrical-Outlet/dp/B0026T9JD2

I believe there's a cheaper version but can't think off the top of my head.


----------



## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

jeffnc said:


> With a multitool, you can use a product like this
> http://www.amazon.com/Improved-Blind-Mark-Electrical-Outlet/dp/B0026T9JD2
> 
> I believe there's a cheaper version but can't think off the top of my head.


This is very true. But those cost 55 dollars shipped and are a one job tool. Personally I would rather pick up a rotozip for a couple more bucks and be able to do a lot more with it then just cut a few outlet boxes and have those magnets sitting on the shelf forever. Here's a dewalt rotozip for 52 dollars shipped, http://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW66...=rotozip&pebp=1422801464146&peasin=B000051WQX. Would be way more useful then those magnet box markers.


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

And here is a $23 option with cheaper versions available http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-31-pc-68696.html . This does not have the base guide that most guys lose or break after the first job anyway.

The 1/8" zip bits fit just fine.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Colbyt said:


> And here is a $23 option with cheaper versions available http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-31-pc-68696.html . This does not have the base guide that most guys lose or break after the first job anyway.
> 
> The 1/8" zip bits fit just fine.


And if your lucky it will last long enough to get the whole job done.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

If you use a Dremel style tool, you might want to get the separate gauge for it. This is the gauge that comes with most drywall tools.
http://www.toolbarn.com/dremel-565....IXNiPw6iNY2Pp6HXCra1yn0AZSu7TLI_-MaAl9i8P8HAQ


----------

