# Cross Bracing 2X12 joists



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

If your question is whether 1x3s are proper for bridging, yes. It is quite common to see wooden bridging. Especially in older homes before prefab metal ones were available. If you are taking them out, replace them with solid wood blocking.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Agreed, solid blocking will do the same thing as the x-braces. If ductwork, wires, or pipes prohibit the installation of a solid piece of 2x12, I'd suggest re-installing the X-bridging using construction adhesive and nails or screws. If you can use 2x12, just stagger them enough to allow nailing instead of trying to put them in a perfectly straight row.

The benefit of bridging blocks or X-bridging is that it allows the joists to share concentrated loads that are applied, such as you walking across the floor. It makes for a stiffer-feeling floor, especially on longer spans.


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## Marvin Gardens (Sep 30, 2008)

Are you sure that this is causing the squeaking?

In my experience it is the tongue and grove sub floor that is the cause of the squeaks in older homes.

I can't imagine that the joists are moving enough to more the x bracing to cause a squeak. Moving joists is a bad thing.

If it is the sub floor then the fix is complex and expensive. Cheaper just to get ear muffs.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I agree with Termite and Marvin. Bridging rarely causes floor squeaks. The bridging will travel with any flex in a joist system. The idea is to transfer any vertical joist motion from load to the adjacent joists, making them share the load AND to prevent the bottom of an overloaded joist from trying to roll over. That is why a properly bridged floor joist system will be stiffer. Most floor squeaks are from flooring materials sliding against one-another or along nails that have loosened.


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## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

BEFORE you go thru all the trouble of what you have in mind,,,try some well placed scews thru the carpet and subfloor into the joists themselves!!! Working up and down on fasteners of the subfloor is typically more squeaky


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## jamiedolan (Sep 2, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> Agreed, solid blocking will do the same thing as the x-braces. If ductwork, wires, or pipes prohibit the installation of a solid piece of 2x12, I'd suggest re-installing the X-bridging using construction adhesive and nails or screws. If you can use 2x12, just stagger them enough to allow nailing instead of trying to put them in a perfectly straight row.
> 
> The benefit of bridging blocks or X-bridging is that it allows the joists to share concentrated loads that are applied, such as you walking across the floor. It makes for a stiffer-feeling floor, especially on longer spans.


This is one of the shorter spans in the house, only about 15 feet between bearing walls. 

Since this is the kitchen, with a finished basement below, I am going to have numerous pipes, drains, electrical, HVAC, etc in between the joists. So I could only use a full 2x12 block in about half of them.

The current bridging has some cracks to it and after I get it taken out, I am sure it will not be in good enough shape to glue & screw back in place. 

Should I just buy some new 1/3 strips, make a angled cut on the end and put in new X bracing just like it was, only with screws and construction adhesive to hold them in place?

Thank You
Jamie


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

New 1x3 or 1x4 would work just fine Jamie. Might want to pre-drill the holes in the ends to reduce the chance of splitting with the screws or nails so close to the ends. Construction adhesive isn't necessary, but won't hurt.


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## jamiedolan (Sep 2, 2008)

Marvin Gardens said:


> Are you sure that this is causing the squeaking?
> 
> In my experience it is the tongue and grove sub floor that is the cause of the squeaks in older homes.
> 
> ...


I didn't like the material they used for the sub floor, it was not a good setup. They used 1/2 inch plywood. They actually appear to have used the same plywood that they used for the forms when building the house, as it had oil / concrete stains on it like it was used for forms. 

The underlayment in the kitchen was junk because of the lineolum that was glued to it, and multiple other layers of flooring and luan that were stapled, nailed and glued down.

Bottom line - I removed everything, I am down to clean bare joists, and am going to put down T&G sturdi floor 3/4 inch, then will likely put down 1/4" luan then Konecto or a sheet product.

I hate squeaking, in my 600+sqft living room and dining room, they used 1/2 inch plywood subflooring, the underlayment was 1/2 inch A/C plywood on top of that. But the darn thing squeaked. I drove over 7 pounds of screws into that floor. It doesn't squeak anymore, except at the odd time when you do here one of the joist braces rubbing.. 

Jamie


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Add some subfloor adhesive when you put the new plywood down. Combined with screws, it will be squeakless!


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## Marvin Gardens (Sep 30, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> Add some subfloor adhesive when you put the new plywood down. Combined with screws, it will be squeakless!


This is what I did and it was absolutely quiet. I love subfloor glue.


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