# Ceiling crack repair



## danzik17 (Oct 16, 2011)

Hi - I'm pretty new at doing any kind of drywall repairs and I'm trying to repair a crack that runs along the length of my ceiling.

When I scraped off some compound, I found and pulled off two layers of mesh tape (a repair and original) that looks like they had both failed. There's a good sized gap in compound now, and I'm not sure how to proceed here and don't want to make a (bigger) mess. Do I need to scrape off all of the compound to the drywall, or can I put in a thin layer of it to level it out before taping again?

Here's a couple of pics to show what I mean, any help is really appreciated.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I'd like to help.

But I have been recently seeing so many of these posts with 1 single entry on the count that it makes me doubt sincerity.

How about posting one more time so we know you're for real?


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## danzik17 (Oct 16, 2011)

Willie T said:


> I'd like to help.
> 
> But I have been recently seeing so many of these posts with 1 single entry on the count that it makes me doubt sincerity.
> 
> How about posting one more time so we know you're for real?


Hah, not a problem 

I'm actually just hanging out at the moment while I'm trying to get a hold of someone (or get a response here). I have no idea if I'm doing the right things, so I'm trying to find out before I go and make a really huge mess.


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## wilsonstark (Jan 16, 2011)

danzik17 said:


> Hah, not a problem
> 
> I'm actually just hanging out at the moment while I'm trying to get a hold of someone (or get a response here). I have no idea if I'm doing the right things, so I'm trying to find out before I go and make a really huge mess.


Right, well until the proper experts decide to comment, I'm going to suggest getting all of the old crap off, all layers, so you're down to the drywall board itself and you can see how it's been secured, etc. 

My number one question is "where the hell are the screws". Can't tell how long that section is, but not seeing screw heads.

I'm not an expert, but I don't think that seam should be just sitting there floating. If that seam isn't screwed against something, that's almost certainly the problem isn't it?


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## danzik17 (Oct 16, 2011)

wilsonstark said:


> Right, well until the proper experts decide to comment, I'm going to suggest getting all of the old crap off, all layers, so you're down to the drywall board itself and you can see how it's been secured, etc.
> 
> My number one question is "where the hell are the screws". Can't tell how long that section is, but not seeing screw heads.
> 
> I'm not an expert, but I don't think that seam should be just sitting there floating. If that seam isn't screwed against something, that's almost certainly the problem isn't it?


I haven't found them yet, but I also didn't scrape a lot to the sides - I'd think they're buried under there somewhere. I will be seeing if I can find the stud to put some more screws in before doing a top coat of compound (I think, unless that's wrong).

What I've done so far is to use mesh tape (yea, I know...I've been reading.) to tape the crack up and just got finished mudding it with 5 minute durabond. Holy crap, when they say 5 minutes, they mean FIVE MINUTES. Went decently though - I ended up having to make two batches since I'm not fast at doing this, but that's fine.

I think the next steps may be to do a few more layers over the next few days until it's level with the existing compound/paint and then go from there, but of course I'd still love to hear from the experts even if it's just a "yup".


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## wilsonstark (Jan 16, 2011)

Durabond huh? Now I really am starting to see what Willie was thinking. You've either just made an amazing collection of avoidable mistakes or you're trolling.


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## danzik17 (Oct 16, 2011)

wilsonstark said:


> Durabond huh? Now I really am starting to see what Willie was thinking. You've either just made an amazing collection of avoidable mistakes or you're trolling.


Seriously? Then give some advice. I'm sure you were born knowing everything about drywall, but not all of us are like that. I know literally NOTHING about doing this beyond a few resources that I've read, each of which make it seem dead simple and the guy at Home Depot who has me use lightweight compound for this repair the first time which didn't end too well.

From what I read, I'm supposed to use setting style mud with mesh tape. That's what I thought I did. Now you make it sound like I did something horribly wrong. Even if you just link to a decent tutorial or something, why not help instead.


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## wilsonstark (Jan 16, 2011)

danzik17 said:


> Seriously? Then give some advice. I'm sure you were born knowing everything about drywall, but not all of us are like that. I know literally NOTHING about doing this beyond a few resources that I've read, each of which make it seem dead simple and the guy at Home Depot who has me use lightweight compound for this repair the first time which didn't end too well.
> 
> From what I read, I'm supposed to use setting style mud with mesh tape. That's what I thought I did. Now you make it sound like I did something horribly wrong. Even if you just link to a decent tutorial or something, why not help instead.


I suspect the reason that it did not end too well when you used lightweight has more to do with the panels underneath. I suggested getting all the old crap off so that you can see the entire joint and see how many and where screws are located. It's already been unsuccessfully taped multiple times, so the problem likely lies below the surface. To be really clear, if you seriously haven't found any screws at all under that tape, then that is your problem. I haven't read of or heard of a ceiling joint where the two panels aren't either screwed like hell into the joists or into a backer of some kind.

The reason for my dubious response was that, in addition to it having been much to early to retape, of all the legit drywalls muds you could have used, Durabond is very hard to work with and almost impossible to sand. I didn't even know there was a Durabond 5, in Canada the fastest is 20 and from what I've read the newbie DIYer is smart to either avoid setting compound entirely or certainly only use easy-sand 90 (in Ontario it's called Sheetrock 90).

Amazon has a pretty good book I've seen others recommend, and that I've found helpful. It's called Black & Decker Working with Drywall: Hanging & Finishing Drywall the Professional Way [Paperback] You can probably find it at a local big box bookstore. I was a lot happier when I stopped, read it cover to cover, then went back to work. Many of the mistakes I had made on my son's room were reversible. For the rest, I'm hoping No Coat is going to help.


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

***EDIT - Sorry, just noticed this is actually a seam (thought it was literally a "crack). My post did not apply here.

Good luck.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If that is a fastener in the picture, add more on the joists near the seam. Paper tape hides movement and won't give as mesh tape does; http://www.usg.com/rc/technical-articles/drywall-finishing-technical-guide-en-J1190.pdf

http://www.usg.com/rc/data-submitta...tapes-industrial-construction-data-MH1178.pdf

Gary


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## danzik17 (Oct 16, 2011)

wilsonstark said:


> I suspect the reason that it did not end too well when you used lightweight has more to do with the panels underneath. I suggested getting all the old crap off so that you can see the entire joint and see how many and where screws are located. It's already been unsuccessfully taped multiple times, so the problem likely lies below the surface. To be really clear, if you seriously haven't found any screws at all under that tape, then that is your problem. I haven't read of or heard of a ceiling joint where the two panels aren't either screwed like hell into the joists or into a backer of some kind.
> 
> The reason for my dubious response was that, in addition to it having been much to early to retape, of all the legit drywalls muds you could have used, Durabond is very hard to work with and almost impossible to sand. I didn't even know there was a Durabond 5, in Canada the fastest is 20 and from what I've read the newbie DIYer is smart to either avoid setting compound entirely or certainly only use easy-sand 90 (in Ontario it's called Sheetrock 90).
> 
> Amazon has a pretty good book I've seen others recommend, and that I've found helpful. It's called Black & Decker Working with Drywall: Hanging & Finishing Drywall the Professional Way [Paperback] You can probably find it at a local big box bookstore. I was a lot happier when I stopped, read it cover to cover, then went back to work. Many of the mistakes I had made on my son's room were reversible. For the rest, I'm hoping No Coat is going to help.


Thanks, I picked that book up on the way home and am giving it a read. I still didn't find any screws, however I'm adding a bunch of my own. The studs (right word?) in the ceiling run in such a way that there's one about every 16" in the direction that this piece of tape is running.

Btw sorry if I was a bit rude earlier, but it was just a bit frustrating in that I really don't know much/not great with my hands. Just bought a place and wanted to at least learn to do "easy-ish" repairs. I will say that after doing some reading, I think the lightweight compound failed because I put it on way too thick.


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## wilsonstark (Jan 16, 2011)

No problem. I made my reply on the phone so was a bit terse and thus ruder than intended

I'm betting having the seam screwed will help. If the seam isn't right on the stud/joist, search this site for butt blocking. I bet you are right about the thickness too.


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