# How to repair rotted joists and studs?



## HooKooDooKu (Jan 7, 2008)

Check out this post. Seems to be your exact situation.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/rotted-sole-plate-bathroom-31598/


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

Thanks, awesome! That's how I'll do it, then.

It also occured to me to simply sister the 2x8's with another 2x8 - Only one beam under the bathroom is useless and needs to be replaced (the one that's cut) - so I'll slide in another 2x8, first - and then remove it and put in a second.


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

Well - I'm working on the floor joists, now and all I can say is that's not going to happen (slipping in a 14' 2x8 next to the existing ones) - There's simply no room to maneuver the new joist into place because 2.5 feet of the joist-span is floored over by the livingroom (the part in the first picture). Trust me, I've tried - after removing all obstacles I'm just a few inches short of tilt-in space. argh!

So - I'm going to "remove" each joist by cutting the nails that hold them in, sliding them to the side to bring in the new ones - then pairing them all up. . . . 

*edit* on millionth thought - I'm considering redoing the floor framing altogether.

The crawlspace is framed with a block pier and ledger system around the perimeter and center - the joists then span from the center to the ledger on the outside.

the ledger is a 2x8 that's on it's side (so it's 1-1/2" thick) - and is supported ever 4 feet with a block pier. This has led to significant floor sagging - the ledger sags, the joists sag, the rotted wall sags AND the rotted wall is resting between two joists - not directly over one.

So I'm going to read up on code options for reinforcing the pier-block joists (ones that haven't been brought down from ledger sag and have full, adequate direct-to-ground support) and.

If altering the direction of joists is acceptable then I'll actually do that. . . altering the direction would actually give significant support to the kitchen/bathroom wall - where more adequate support is needed - and the area of the load bearing livingroom wall will still be adequately supported over the 5' wall-span.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

HooKooDooKu said:


> Check out this post. Seems to be your exact situation.
> 
> http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/rotted-sole-plate-bathroom-31598/


You beat me to it HooKooDooKu! That's my formerly rotten bathroom. :laughing:


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## Snav (Aug 20, 2009)

Ah - very cool!

Well, tonight while burning dinner (a rare occurrence, I swear!) the solution to my problem came to me - with no cutting of the girders, rerunning the direction of the joists or anything drastic and dangerous.

I will simply reinforce the sill with a forward girder and attach the joists to that . . .doing this will fill the sill-gap on the ledge and allow me to just drop the joists into joists hangars from above.

Tada - done.

The current joists will be removed only after the new joists are in place and the original girder and sill, since none are rotted and only warped, will remain - I will just be relocating the load to the new girder instead of the old one. (which wasn't being used to carry the load, anyway - the sagging sills (ledges) were, which is why the ledges sagged to begin with).


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