# best and easy way to tarp a roof



## mafiaboss

*Our roof is leaking bad the ceiling in the bedroom has come down. How is the best and easy way to tarp it? Roof needs replaced but have gotten several estimates and it will cost 9 to 10,000 to replace . We do not have that kind of money . Is tarping it a good short term solution ? *


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## DangerMouse

Tarping is a VERY short term and temporary way to keep things dry while FIXING the roof. 
Pictures will help us help you assess the damages and offer solutions.

DM


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## wg cahill

*Quick fix for leaking roof*

go purchase 1 10square roll of grace roofing underlayment about 130.00$ 1 small box of cap nails about5.00$ apply to roof like felt paper. will last at least 6 months .will out last any tarp and will not blow off in high winds.:thumbsup: good luck with your roofing project, WG.CAHILL:thumbsup:


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## LF Ribeiro

*Practical tarping*

What is felt? Won't the nails damage the shingles? We have a leak that is between the old part of the house and the addition. Roofers came and said it needs to have a tar sealing wash, but we are cash poor at the moment and can't afford it. Leak has worsened and we need to tarp but can't even afford a roofer to do that (plus the prices are ridiculous). Looking for advice online we get everything from sealing the tarp to the roof, nailing it to the roof, using 2x4 boards to weigh it down, using rope and tennis balls (no bricks, though)... Its nuts. Can anyone provide some plain speaking DIY instructions on putting a tarp on a roof properly, effectively and safely?


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## ParagonEx

Why were the prices ridiculous?


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## jimmy21

the problem with tarps is air gets under them and then it creates a ton of force that rips them clean off. I don't think a tarp would last on a roof all winter around here no matter what you did to hold it down. Better way would be to use felt (tar paper), Which probably is cheaper by the sqft than a tarp anyway


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## Gymschu

Your leak is in tough spot to keep a tarp down. I have done it on my roof for a 6-month time (winter & early spring rains). I used 1 by 2 wood strips about 2 or 3 feet long and nailed them down on top of the tarp at the edges being sure to angle them so as not to trap water from rain. You have to nail down one side first so you can pull the tarp down tight and nail down the other side. As many have said, if it's not tight to the roof, wind will get under there and rip the tarp to shreds. Also be aware that tarps don't last long in sunny climates........the UV rays break down the plastic in short order.


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## PoleCat

I used fender washers and drywall screws about every 16" along the edge.


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## DangerMouse

*4 years* ago, I threw together a 10' X 16' storage shed to keep building materials out of the weather as I finished building this home. For the roof, I used OSB and threw a tarp over it. I wrapped the edges over and staple-gunned it to death underneath the overhang, then added plastic bags of dirt I threw randomly around the roof to help hold it down. The plastic has deteriorated from the dirt bags, but the clumps still hold it down, and it's still bone dry inside. It'll come down in the spring, unless she wants to keep it for storage. It'll get shingled proper if so.

DM


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## mjzraz

*Pictures?*

How about some pictures of the area that is leaking from the outside?


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## Roofmaster417

As its been said tarps have a very short lifespan.

The major contributor of failure of the tarp is the granules from the shingles.

You can fasten a tarp to a shingled roof as tight as you want but I give it 3 weeks before its useless.

Take a corner of a tarp,,grab a shingle and move it back and forth and thats what is happening on your roof.Basically corse sand paper on plastic.

Throw in some rain,uv's or other types of weather including wind,,the tarp begins to break down.Being stretched its doomed.


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## Roofmaster417

For the O.P and the other person asking about tarping,,take some pix of the structure and post them.

Stand far enough away from the structure to capture the roof line.

Take a pic of the front,right,rear and the left.

I can give you a diagram of your roof line and tarp application instruction.

I have put tarps on about 3,500 residential and commercial properties.

Dangermouse,,I see your still referring to your trusty shed.Proud owner you are.haxahaxaha,,,its good D.M,,,


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## LF Ribeiro

@Jimmy21:


> I don't think a tarp would last on a roof all winter around here no matter what you did to hold it down. Better way would be to use felt (tar paper), Which probably is cheaper by the sqft than a tarp anyway


Thanks, this is the most helpful. How is felt applied? How large an area should we cover? The leak is in the seam between the addition and old part of the house. Both sides have a slight pitch but couldn't tell you the degree. Will try for pictures after this current storm (we did get a tarp on there held down with bricks and wood, lets hope it helps). How long does felt last? We hope to get the repair done by late Winter, but even in sunny Southern California it does rain a lot in December and January, so we would want something that could hold up at least 2-3 months. Thanks.


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## Roofmaster417

Ever seen what felt looks like after a couple weeks of exposure to the sun???,,,,add some rain and morning moisture,,,then if your leak is elsewhere now you have all the penetrations from all the fasteners.

Make sure you know 100% where the leak is,,pitch breaks are difficult to dry in.

Nobody at church,work any friends,family can help???,,if you were close to Springfield/Joplin I would help for free.


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## PoleCat

Since you are planning on total replacement soon anyway I think the best thing to do would be to get a large bucket of that roof asphalt and brush it heavy over the entire area. I have had great luck with this approach. Will keep you dry for at least a year.


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## SusieV

*Tarp? Felt? Heating Elements? Other?*

Wow, I love this thread. 

I was thinking of throwing a tarp onto my roof for the winter as well. I get ice damning, and unfortunately, the resulting interior damage to my ceilings and walls. I need to get a new roof soon but holding off until funding is in line.

I saw a house that tarped their roof last year and thought, hmm, great idea. I Googled the idea and came across this thread, and the wealth of information you all have shared.

But now I'm stumped. Tarping isn't the solution due to wind and lifting, and felt...well, I'm not all together clear on how that works, or whether it would survive snow, ice and rain.

If felt _could _survive, would I (_or, more likely someone else_) simply nail (yikes) the felt down the valleys, and possibly along the gutter-line...on an angle (as mentioned)??? 

Wouldn't the ice and snow still "dam" since the water/ice would drip under the felt, and also leak if any holes exist in the roof? What does the felt prevent?

An alternative, but related question would be about heating elements: does anyone recommend the heating elements to prevent ice damming? I've heard the problem with those was, if you don't turn them off, you will have a whopper of a heating bill. Maybe over the years, someone came up with a sensor to turn on and off the heating elements when moisture hits them??? Any insights?

Looking for help from this very brilliant forum of DIYs -- what do you suggest for my roof issue? (looking for the cheapest, easiest, most effective solution to get through the winter...until a new roof can be afforded -- maybe a metal roof could be my long-term solution).

_Help!_

Susie


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## DangerMouse

SusieV said:


> Looking for help from this very brilliant forum of DIYs -- what do you suggest for my roof issue? (looking for the cheapest, easiest, most effective solution to get through the winter...until a new roof can be afforded -- maybe a metal roof could be my long-term solution).
> 
> _Help!_
> 
> Susie


See post #9

DM


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## Gymschu

The heating elements are virtually worthless. The freeze-thaw cycles produce such mass quantities of ice in the gutters and with temps well below freezing, it is nearly impossible to eliminate/melt the ice. Your best bet is to keep the temps in the attic the same temp as the outside........this is what keeps ice from forming in the gutters. If your attic is warmer than the outside air, it melts the snow which accumulates as water in the gutters and builds up ICE DAMS as a result. You really need to address the ventilation problem before anything else.


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## Windows on Wash

Most ice dams are a heat loss issue. Fix the heat loss and you will solve a majority of your issues.

+1 to the venting suggestion from Gymschu.


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## SusieV

1) DangerMouse, I like the idea you had in Post #9, but wonder if it's more appropriate for a shed roof, than a pitched house roof. Not sure but will continue to ponder that great suggestion.

2) Okay, seems everyone is in agreement: heating elements are out.

3) Ventilation issues: yes, I have had those addressed under the limited abilities of a retro-fit correction. Insulation along the kneewall, added vents along the soffit (? guter area), a solar fan to help with circulation, etc.

What I have been told was, because my roof is older, there isn't sufficient...hmm, I believe it was "flashing". Once I re-roof, it significantly help. And of course, additional ventilation can be added. 

But I'm not at that re-roof point. So it's tarp...or nailed on felt...or...continuing to try and "roof rake".


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## DangerMouse

I suppose it also would depend upon the pitch, although you did say TEMPORARY, and tarps are a good temporary protection that won't cost you an arm and a leg.

DM


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## SusieV

Yes, I agree. Cheap, and relatively easy. It's where I started...but was redirected by the comments in this thread.

Just trying to find out if there's something better for my "easy fix". 

Anybody have answers to the felt questions? Or experience to share?


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## Windows on Wash

I don't see anything about air loss corrections?

Insulation on a kneewall won't do anything to stop air loss. 

Granted, some areas are tougher than others to fix and some climates are tougher than others.

We have fixed plenty of ice dams issues via proper air sealing and insulation. I would be willing to bet this home could be fixed as well.


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## SusieV

Insulation on the kneewall prevents the heat from (hopefully) entering the attic space, and therefore keeps the roof cool.

I never heard anyone mention air corrections / air loss...so I'm intrigued.

What are ways in which you would make air corrections? And, who would I call to do that? A handyman? Someone in heating and cooling?


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## Windows on Wash

Look for an energy auditor or someone specializing in energy efficiency retrofits (air sealing and insulation).


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## PoleCat

Felt over your exsisting roof is not likely to survive all winter. The air/heat loss issue pertains to the amount of insulation over your heated living space; is there enough to keep the attic from "heating up" and making the snow pack melt on the bottem. Tarp is the goto for TEMPORARY protection.


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## SusieV

Okay, it sounds like tarping is my answer. Thank you all!

When I Googled "roof tarps" I only saw the traditional blue color. 

Anyone know of manufacturers that make, perhaps, a charcoal grey (something close to a shingle color)? A color that might be a little less noticeable than bright blue?


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## Gymschu

I've seen tarps of all colors, but, yeah, mostly blue........they seem to be the least expensive. I have purchased a few at Tractors Supply that were black on one side and gray on the other. Not sure who makes them though.


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## kwikfishron

SusieV said:


> Anyone know of manufacturers that make, perhaps, a charcoal grey (something close to a shingle color)? A color that might be a little less noticeable than bright blue?


Brown tarps are pretty easy to find. Ace and Do It Best hardware in my area both have brown.

I have a outbuilding with a tarp roof. The North side is still dry after three years, the South (sun) side didn’t survive one summer.


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## SusieV

Thanks guys, that's really great information. You're all so awesome and knowledgeable, I appreciate your help!


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