# R 30 Insulation in Walls



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Never put to thick an insulation in the wall. If it's compressed it's usless.


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## Hates my roof (Dec 3, 2011)

Dont compress fiberglass batts to fit a cavity shallower than what the batt is designed for. No matter how much fiberglasss is compressed, it will not stop draftiness - been there, done that, had to start all over again. You need to stop the airleaks in those walls. Seal up all the stud bays with good quality caulk - wherever two pieces of wood meet. That still might not be enough - air is like water in that it will find a way through. If you block one crack, it will find another. All cracks need to be sealed thoroughly in pretty much the whole structure in order to make a difference. And dont forget about those plumbing/electrical holes and chaseways.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I would use Roxwool, or Wet application dense pack in the wall space, vs. conventional insulation batts. Reason being, is that air moves too much through regular batts, along with noise.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> I would use Roxwool, or Wet application dense pack in the wall space, vs. conventional insulation batts. Reason being, is that air moves too much through regular batts, along with noise.


+1

Batts are largely crap and if you get the high density stuff, they are expensive.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I only used them in my bathroom when we remodeled, due to I had a bag left, when we went around and did the rim joists in the basement. I wanted the house to still breathe a little, but not airtight downstairs, so that is why I used Kraft faced R-13.


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