# Skilsaw issue: can't tighten blade



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Skil 5350 Parts List and Diagram - Type 1 (F012535000) : eReplacementParts.com

Here is a diagram---I don't have an answer but this may help you or someone else here to spot the worn part.--Mike---


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## mickey cassiba (Mar 17, 2011)

The jack shaft(the arbor you mount the blade on)has been pulled out of it's normal position. This happens from time to time on a lot of circular saws. Usual causes are mounting a blade without the inside flange and actually pulling the jack shaft out when attempting to tighten the blade. Over-tightening is a major culprit, especially with today's thinner blades. A thirty year old saw may also have wear on the inside face of the gearbox cover. This is normal no matter how careful you are with the tool. A quick check is this: Remove the flanges, blade and nut and clean up the shaft. Get all the grease and gunk off, and dry it off well. Then scribe or draw a mark on the shaft at the point where it enters the gearbox. Using a hammer and a block of wood to protect the threads, tap (NOT WHACK) on the shaft trying to drive it toward the motor. If your mark disappears you have (temporarily) fixed the saw. Continue tapping until no more movement occurs. Re-mount the blade with all flanges and try to manually pull the blade away from the motor. If you feel movement, a retainer is crushed or broken. Time to go inside...
I cannot give you more advice for your saw as I have not worked on that model, but most saws are assembled much the same. 
Hope this helps.


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## mrivney (Nov 4, 2011)

Thanks! I did figure it out, I think. The problem seems to have do something with the blade. I put in a new blade which is thinner. I put the old blade back in, which is burnt and bad, and it tightened up.
Regards


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## mrivney (Nov 4, 2011)

Thanks! I did figure it out, I think. The problem seems to have do something with the blade. I put in a new blade which is thinner. I put the old blade back in, which is burnt and bad, and it tightened up. Either the problem is with the thickness of the blade where the flange won't catch and tighten up or maybe the blade is too smooth and the flange is not catching and thus tightening. I'll try roughing up the blade. It's a Diablo (I paid $20 for it at Home Depot).
Regards


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## mrivney (Nov 4, 2011)

mickey cassiba said:


> The jack shaft(the arbor you mount the blade on)has been pulled out of it's normal position. This happens from time to time on a lot of circular saws. Usual causes are mounting a blade without the inside flange and actually pulling the jack shaft out when attempting to tighten the blade. Over-tightening is a major culprit, especially with today's thinner blades. A thirty year old saw may also have wear on the inside face of the gearbox cover. This is normal no matter how careful you are with the tool. A quick check is this: Remove the flanges, blade and nut and clean up the shaft. Get all the grease and gunk off, and dry it off well. Then scribe or draw a mark on the shaft at the point where it enters the gearbox. Using a hammer and a block of wood to protect the threads, tap (NOT WHACK) on the shaft trying to drive it toward the motor. If your mark disappears you have (temporarily) fixed the saw. Continue tapping until no more movement occurs. Re-mount the blade with all flanges and try to manually pull the blade away from the motor. If you feel movement, a retainer is crushed or broken. Time to go inside...
> I cannot give you more advice for your saw as I have not worked on that model, but most saws are assembled much the same.
> Hope this helps.


OK. I've tried roughing up the new blade at the center. There was a sticker. Plus it's painted. Didn't matter. Note, the new blade is 6 1/2" diameter and the old blade is 7 1/4" diameter.
I'll ask my neighbor tomorrow to see if he can figure it and I'll report back.


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## mrivney (Nov 4, 2011)

My neighbor, Al, figured it out! The new blade is thinner, by some decimal figure (I don't remember what was the difference on the caliper readings of the two blades)! Thus, when tightening the screw onto the arbor, it stops just short of tightenting, thus spinning the shaft. 
BTW, got the right size blade and it still happened. Went with another brand, which works. Will later grind down the bolt by a few mils.

Thanks for all your help.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

So you found the problem before I could post the answer-good for you. YES--some of today's new blades, made oversea's I'm sure, are just thin enough that they will not tighten up in some older saws. I have had this experience. Fortunately when I found this problem with one of my older saws I was working as a machinist and altered the screw just enough to tighten up on the newer thinner blades. Also--you stated that you used a smaller diameter blade in you saw, not a good practice IMO.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Before modifying the bolt, you might want to replace the cup that goes on the bolt, on the outside of the blade; could be that it is worn and/or flattened a bit after 30 years.


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## mrivney (Nov 4, 2011)

Dexter,
OK. I'll check it out. The flanges may be a bit thinner. I think it's the new blades. They're thinner.
Regards, Mike


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