# small engine repair



## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I have a Tecumseh 5.5hp chipper/shredder. The model# is 0HH55 69024F. When I press the primer bulb, nothing seems to be happening and the engine will not start. If I remove the air filter cover and give a quick shot of starting fluid, it will start right up and stay running. I was wondering how do I replace the primer bulb on this engine? Could it be another part of the carb that is giving me problems?
Does anyone know of any exploded views of Tecumseh carbs? Thanks for the help...........


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

*Fuel blockage*

You have a blockage in your fuel system. You should not need a diagram. Take the carb off and clean the the jets. Make sure fuel flowes freely from the tank to the carb. Dump the tank into a clean bowl and see what comes out. Unmount the tank and blow air up the line. When you get it cleaned up use Sea Foam additive to keep it clean. An inline fuel filter between the tank and carb wouldn't be a bad idea either. Let us know if you get it going. Dorf Dude


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I will take the carb off this weekend and clean it up as you mentioned. Do I need any parts at all, or just a good cleaning? Actually the fuel shouldnt be very dirty because I havn't ran this machine very much at all. It might have 25 hours at the most. I always use Stabil in my fuel and I try to run the fuel out after i get done with the machine. Should i hear any fuel being squirted into the carb when I press the primer bulb? Is there a gasket between the intake pipe and the carb, any other gaskets I might need? Thanks for the help, I will take it apart and see what happens.


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

The primer bulb is just a "help pump" between the fuel source and the carb. You should feel resistance as it pumps up fuel. On my chainsaw it recomends 6 pumps before starting. You have either a blockage before the primer or after. Before taking the carb off I would check that fuel is making it through the primer. There are gaskets on the fuel bowl and carb to motor, usually they are ok when you take it apart. You can try soaking them with WD40 before disassembly. If you damage a gasket you can use Permatex sealent to repair, not silicone! Silicone and gas do not like each other. You have done all the proper maintainence procedures to prevent this type of a problem. Let us know what you find, Dorf Dude...


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Pop into your city library and ask the librarian to help you find any books they have on Tecumseh engines. They probably have lots of Tecumseh service manuals that you can check out. I know the Centennial Library in Winnipeg does.


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## Gerry Kiernan (Apr 23, 2007)

Hi Oletrkguy

Try googling Tecumseh and see if they have any online manuals and parts breakdowns for the engine model you have. I did that for my Briggs and Stratton stuff, and they have many of their reference manuals on line.

Gerry


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I was able to find a Tecumseh manual for this engine at Northern Tool. It helps a little but I was hoping for a breakdown of the carburetor and parts, but no such luck.
I cleaned the carb up and cleaned it with carb cleaner but that didnt help. 
When i pressed the primer bulb i didn't feel any resistance nor did i hear any fuel flowing anywhere. I did find a new primer bulb and the O rings that go on the nozzle. I also got a new gasket for the bowl and a needle valve. 
I am new to this so I may not be calling these parts by the correct names. I got a very small wire for cleaning any jets or holes, if i can find where they are. 
I think i mentioned in an earlier post, that this machine does not have many hours at all on it. If anything is wrong with the carburetor, I think it may be from lack of use rather than dirt. Maybe some carb parts dry rotted, is that possible? The number on the carb is 5028, if that rings a bell for anyone. 
I only see one adjusting screw, and it looks like it is for the idle. There is a nut on the bottom of the bowl, i guess it is just for attaching the bowl to the carb. I will take it apart saturday and give it a good cleaning. I do need to replace the fuel line, i noticed it is kinda brittle. Sorry for going on and on, but i figure the more i share the better my chances of getting this fixed, i'll post any progress as i move along with this. Have a great weekend...


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## DUDE! (May 3, 2008)

I put a link, you may already have it, good idea on replaceing the bulb, had one crack on a smaller tool. I figure primary reason because it wasn't used much. good luck http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/BSI.pdf


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

I agree with DUDE, replace the primer. It should build up restistance as you pump it. Don't bother with the carb just yet. Dorf Dude


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I took the primer bulb off and it looked ok. I placed it on a smooth flat surfaced and pressed and it did have suction, so I figured the bulb was ok.
I continued taking the carb apart and I think I have all the rubber parts off. I got the O rings , the nozzle, and also the needle valve out. I havn't gotten the needle valve seat out yet. Does it pry out, much like the nozzle O rings? How does the needle seat go back, any tricks/tips to getting the O rings and needle seat back in ands back in correctly? Is it ok to soak the carb over night in gas to maybe get any remaining dirt off?
Thanks.....


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## Gerry Kiernan (Apr 23, 2007)

Some needle seats have a slot across them for a screwdriver. If so, then it will thread out. If not, do not remove the carb seat. Make sure you can blow air through it. If you can it should be okay.
Oil your rubber o-rings lightly before reinstalling.

Gerry


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I cant see a slot for a screw driver in the seat, so I will leave it be. A new seat did come with the needle valve, but it doesn't have a slot in it either. Thanks


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## Deidra (Dec 2, 2008)

I did that for my Briggs and Stratton stuff, and they have many of their reference manuals online.


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I put a new primer bulb, new O rings around the nozzle and a new bowl gasket and it still will not prime using the bulb. It will start using starting fluid, but not with the primer bulb......am i correct in thinking that if there is enough gas to run, there should be enough to prime? thanks for the help......


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

It really sounds like you have a fuel blockage between the tank and the primer. Do you by chance have a fuel shutoff valve? It should pump up with the primer bulb no problem. Can you blow air backwards into the tank? You need to find the blockage. Dorf Dude


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## MgMopar (Jul 31, 2004)

There may be crack or leak in the fuel line to the primer from the tank. If the line is leaking the suction of the primer will be sucking air from the leak instead of fuel from the tank.


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I forgot to mention in the previous post that I did change the gas line from the tank to the carb. I didn't blow any air through the fuel outlet of the tank, but i did replace the line......should i go back and blow out the outlet? There is sufficient fuel flowing to the carb, and i didn't even think about the outlet....


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

*Confused*



oletrkguy said:


> I forgot to mention in the previous post that I did change the gas line from the tank to the carb. I didn't blow any air through the fuel outlet of the tank, but i did replace the line......should i go back and blow out the outlet? There is sufficient fuel flowing to the carb, and i didn't even think about the outlet....


I'm confused. You have good fuel flow but still no fuel to the carb?? There is something stopping your flow. Like mentioned before maybe a crack in the line but you replaced that. Blow air backwards through your feed line. This is not rocket science. Something simple is causing this. Dorf Dude...


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## Gerry Kiernan (Apr 23, 2007)

Many small engines have either a screen, filter, or a foam block on the fuel tank end of the fuel line. If you pull the fuel line out of the tank, gently, you can inspect whatever is on the gas end for any kind of blockage.
You mention that you have sufficient fuel to the carb, but not to the primer bulb. I wonder if you have a malfunctioning check valve that is letting the primer fuel go back where it came from instead of to the engine.

Gerry


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

Sorry for the confusion, it has me scratching my head. When I press the primer bulb, it doesn't prime the carb. However if I spray starting fluid in the carb it will crank right up and run. It does get fuel to run, but it doesn't get fuel when I try to prime it with the bulb. I changed the primer bulb, the O rings around the nozzle, the bowl gasket and the gas line.
I just remembered another rubber hose to the carb, but I do not know where it leads. It isn't the fuel line, and there was not a clamp on it. It connects to the carb much like the fuel line, but as i mentioned, it isnt the fuel line. My carb diagram don't even have that fitting showing on their drawing......


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

On motorcycles that rubber line your describing goes to the fuel petcock. It is vacuum operated. When the motor runs it opens to allow fuel to flow. It could be some sort of govenor but usually they are mechanicle. I still bet you have a supply problem, take the tank off and inspect the complete fuel delivery path. Your lack of fuel at the primer indicates no fuel. Get in there, you will find the problem. Dorf Dude...


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## 1610 CUB (Jul 19, 2008)

check this out maybe it will help
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/faqrebuildcarb.cfm


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

Success, I got it to prime. It takes quite a bit of pressing the bulb, but it does prime and crank up now. 
I took the fuel line off of the carb and put a small amount of gas in the tank. The gas ran freely from the tank, through the line to the carb, so I figured the fuel supply was ok.
Someone asked me if I have installed the air breather assembly before I tried to prime. I had not and he told me to put the assembly screws back into the carb, the metal assembly plate wasn't necessary, just the screws into the carb. One of the screws was obvious just for mounting the assembly to the carb. However the other screw held the assembly on and it must screw further into the carb and possibly block a passage for the priming circuit. I don't know exactly how, but it worked.
Something had to go bad to start with for it not to prime. When I replaced the parts, it fixed it, i just should have done more of the assembly. I learned from this and i appreciate everyones help with this....


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## MgMopar (Jul 31, 2004)

:thumbup: Now you can leave the can of starting fluid alone. It can be bizarre what kind of things can affect others. I would think it could be figured out what happened in your case. The single passage that was left open with 1 screw out somewhere. The way castings are it might not even effect all machines. So in any case it does appear to be a air leak in the supply fuel circuit just not from a hose. It might be a lessen learned for more then just you. I know how it is not to put something ALL the way back together just for a test trail or run to see if it's fixed. It may have been just that kept it broken. :wink:


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## oletrkguy (Nov 26, 2008)

I have heard that the starting fluid isnt really a good thing to use, but sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I think something dried up, or cracked, or maybe split to cause the initial problem. I say that because this machine is rather new as far as hours used. One day i dragged it out of storage and thats when it decided it wasn't going to prime any longer. It set outside covered up, so maybe the carb parts dried out? Any tips on outside storage other than covering the unit from the elements?...thanks....


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