# Removing Block From Cinderblock Wall



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

I would like to remove a single cinder block from a wall in the basement and am wondering if it's a good idea or not.

The wall runs down the center of the basement, dividing it into 2 halves, and supports the joists for the floor above.

What I would like to do is remove one block to create a small opening between the 2 sides of the basement. Is this something can potentially be done without compromising the integrity of the wall?

Thanks


----------



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Can I ask why?


----------



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

I would drill a pilot hole into the top block to determine if it is solid (and potentially reinforced). That will give you an idea of how difficult it would be. If the block are hollow, it would be much easier and just score the joint to keep it better looking in the end.

Dick


----------



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

rjniles said:


> Can I ask why?


I'm going to be running draught beer lines through the wall with wall mounted taps.

The ideal setup would be to remove an entire block to build an insulated box in the wall. If removing a block is going to be a bad idea I will just have to make a smaller hole through the block to run conduit.


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

beer ?????????? :thumbup: we'll be right there


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

It may be possible to remove a single top block without compromising anything. It depends on how the load is distributed.

Will you really gain that much insulation value when compared foam insulation around the lines for such a short run? Many commercial beer lines are run with nothing other than a simple foam pipe insulation added.


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

ofergawdsake, unless you need 8 x 16 pipe for beer, howzabout just drilling a couple holes thru the block side to side ?


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

in a sound wall, 1 block will make no difference.


----------



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

stadry said:


> ofergawdsake, unless you need 8 x 16 pipe for beer, howzabout just drilling a couple holes thru the block side to side ?


Obviously I don't need pipe that big. The purpose here is to avoid having a box for the taps sticking out of the wall. They will need some kind of enclosure










IF (big if) I can remove a block this can built into the space where the block used to be and keep the finished side of the wall nice and flush.

Gotta have have room for all the hardware and some kind of service access.


----------



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

If it helps any here is the area of the wall in question.










The 2 closest ceiling joists sit directly on either side of the block I'm looking at.


----------



## jimn (Nov 13, 2010)

I love beer but that is one crazy large tap system . How do you keep all those legs fresh?


----------



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

jimn01 said:


> I love beer but that is one crazy large tap system . How do you keep all those legs fresh?


The picture above isn't mine, just an image I found as an example (I only have 4 taps )

Currently I have a bar I built with a custom-ish fridge which I built by tearing the guts out of an old dorm fridge and building a new insulated box around it. It works but the door is crap and leaks.

I'm switching over to a chest freezer with an external thermostat to maintain temp. Something along the lines of this:









Except instead of taps mounted to the freezer collar I'll be running the lines through the wall to the other room.

Actually the setup in this thread http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=421282 is very similar to what I'm aiming for. Except obviously I don't have the convenience of easy to manage studs and drywall.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=421282


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

if i wanted those taps in a wall of mine, i would not hesitate to make the needed hole.
structurally, that 1 block is a non-issue.


----------



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

If I wanted to do this and play it safe by installing a steel lintel... where would be a good place to find one?

The big box stores don't seem to have anything smaller than 48".


----------



## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

I wouldn't even bother with a lintel of any kind, it will never take any kind of load. The block wall as it it is many times "overkill" for the small load it's carrying, taking out that one block won't harm anything...........


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

go get a hammer drill & be done with this,,, this thread is a perfect example of ' when all's said & done, more's said than done ! ' :laughing: IF you'd gotten off your ***, we'd ALL be hoisting a cold 1 by now :yes: installing a lintel is a solution to an issue that doesn't exist :no: do you work for the government in some capacity ? 

forget thinking the apron/vest stores are the supply-all places,,, they ain't & most of what they sell is below par compared to quality stuff HOWEVER it is generally low price,,, i have an acct there but ONLY rarely does anything from an apron/vest store find its way into OUR home :no:


----------



## fortunerestore (Mar 6, 2014)

To check the solidity, you can drill a pilot hole into the top block. Doing so you will get a complete idea if how difficult the process is going to be. But in case the blocks are hollow, you are lucky enough to get an easy job. You can remove the entire block and create an insulated box in the wall.


----------



## gfei (Aug 3, 2015)

stadry said:


> go get a hammer drill & be done with this


Already have the hammer drill in anticipation of this project. I guess it's time to start making some holes to see how difficult this is actually going to be.


----------



## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

The block look like they might be "2-holers", so if you go in about 5" from either end and smack them a few good times with a 3-4# hammer, it should come out pretty easy after that. Personally, I'd wait until you have a really bad day and use it to take your aggressions out on...........


----------

