# Vent pipe is leaking in attic



## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

That should slope _upwards_ to the roof vent!

Can you look down into the pipe from the roof with a flashlight?

I'll bet it is filled with water! (Which would not happen is if was sloping so water would drain...)


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Billy_Bob said:


> That should slope _upwards_ to the roof vent!
> 
> Can you look down into the pipe from the roof with a flashlight?
> 
> I'll bet it is filled with water! (Which would not happen is if was sloping so water would drain...)



I will have to see about getting on to the roof, but the pipe looks more tilted in the picture. I checked it out with a level, it is not sloping upwards, but it is just barely sloping downwards. Should I just try to patch the PVC with something?


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

cold outside air infultrating inside the pipe is picking up the attic air around the pipe and condensating...:wink:


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

It should not leak. You should investigate if it is filled with water first and if so why. If it is level or slightly sloping up to the roof, then rain water getting into the vent should drain out and it should not be leaking when not raining! If it is clogged, you may need to snake it.

I would take a peek on the other side of that old roof and see if there is plenty of room to cut out a section lower than that.

And see if that top section was "forced" onto the pipe coming out of the old roof. Notice the strap holding it down! That looks like it is there to hold it down onto that pipe coming out of the old roof. Probably because it is not a proper fit!

Then maybe use a sawsall and cut a big oval out of the old roof. Do not cut any supporting beams or rafters. But make a big oval hole going down. Then you can easily cut the pipe lower in the old area and join it up with the new vent pipe.

Then cut the PVC lower down and properly connect it to the vent so no pressure is on any joints and is sloping downward.

Go to the store and you will see they have many different angles of PVC. Some are just slight angles. But with a combination of those and cutting to a correct height on the other side, you can get a proper fit which does not "force" one section onto the other. They would stay that way without a strap to hold it down.

Once things are that way, then glue the new pieces together.

Also I would stick a "T" (sideways T that is) where it meets the old pipe below the old roof. And get a cap for that. Then you have an easy cleanout if it is difficult to get onto the roof.

If it looks like you would have trouble doing that when looking at the other side, post a picture if you can.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That pipe is way wrong---it is a trap and filled with water---and no longer working as a vent===

Unless that picture is very distorted---

You must be able to shove a hose into the vent from outside and have it drain completely dry---


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

I put a level on the pipe, closer to the roof and it is only running downward a little bit. 










I don't think it is enough to completely block the drain. And the leak is at the high point of the run, so I don't think water would pool here. I have rotated this picture to look a bit closer to reality. The surface where you see the recessed lights is actually the top of a cathedral ceiling. It is sloped upwards.










Green line represents the angle I could follow if I had to cut the pipe.

I would not be able to get to the area where it penetrates the roof. So I could only cut it on the horizontal run, and then anywhere along the other side of the attic. Should I still go for it?

This is what it looks like from the "other attic." I can lower it if needed to fix the angle.


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## jamm51 (Sep 27, 2011)

"the level is only running downward a little bit" --------- WTF , it's a half a bubble on a six inch level.
Three feet away it's going to be 2 inches higher than it should.
Cut that strap and I'll bet it springs up !!
I'll bet if you shake that pipe you will hear the water in it.

You can patch if you want, but that is just a band aid.
It is not fixing the problem.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

jammin06 said:


> "the level is only running downward a little bit" --------- WTF , it's a half a bubble on a six inch level.


Nicely...well not so nicely put but your point should be taken.

Hey Ohmzoned: does it leak all the time or only when it rains?


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

Plenty of room on the other side!

So you can saw down a big oval hole around and below where that pipe goes through the old roof. Then cut the pipe near where the vent goes through the new roof and cut lower on the inside of the old roof.

Then find pieces to reconnect so it then slopes down. And I would stick a T and plugged cleanout on the old roof side. Then you can snake going straight down and not need to get on the roof.

Note you can buy extra plumbing parts, then return what is not needed. So you can get several different angles. Then haul them up there and try fitting different pieces together. Then return what you don't need.


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

hammerlane said:


> Nicely...well not so nicely put but your point should be taken. Hey Ohmzoned: does it leak all the time or only when it rains?


It is starting to seem more like it is leaking all of the time. It isn't full on "leaking" but there is a drop of water that seems to always be around the rim.

I am going to just cut and lower the pipe (with a t-trap). I am having a leak on the roof repaired so I will just make sure it is nice and caulked from the roof. I think taking the pressure off of the vent and redoing the pipe may just be the best way.

Thanks!


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

OhmZoned said:


> I am having a leak on the roof repaired so I will just make sure it is nice and caulked from the roof


"Caulking" is not the correct way to seal the passage of the vent stack through the roof, and will likely end up leaking.


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Michael Thomas said:


> "Caulking" is not the correct way to seal the passage of the vent stack through the roof, and will likely end up leaking.


Right - I didn't mean actually caulking. I figure they would have to check the flashing and rubber boot around the vent stack. Then use the correct materials to seal it up even more... roofing tar?

Any suggestions?


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

I my experience, the most durable vent stack boot is the lead type, which turns down into the the vent at the top. In my Chicago climate, the "rubber boot" types are good for 5-7 years max


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Michael Thomas said:


> I my experience, the most durable vent stack boot is the lead type, which turns down into the the vent at the top. In my Chicago climate, the "rubber boot" types are good for 5-7 years max


I will make sure that there is a proper boot up there - maybe lead if I can find it. I am in Philadelphia, so we get similar weather which lately means 20+ inches of snow at a time 

What does the actual flashing get adhered with? If I already have a rubber boot (which I think they just replaced this year), what can I use to seal it up until I can replace it when I redo the roof (thinking 2-3 years)?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The existing boot should work ----most are just a sheet metal pan with a raised rubber ring that the pipe sticks through.

Removal is not always needed to replace the pipe---but is simple to do if you need------roofing nails and roof tar in a caulking tube are all you need---and perhaps a tiny bit of color match caulk to hide the exposed nails.


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Looks like that pipe was strapped down in order to pitch it towards the ground. *sigh*

Also, I cut the "old roof" so that relieved some of the pressure on the pipe. I did shake it a bit and I can certainly hear water in it. I suppose this is because of the bad pitch. I am going to cut it as close to the new roof I can and pitch it downwards. I bought a bunch of 22.5° and 45° PVC joints and I will try to just get everything to line up. I am going to also cut the pipe on the other side of the "old roof" to lower it.

Are there any tips or tricks to getting the angles / joints right, or should I just try my best to get everything lined up?

Thanks


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

OhmZoned said:


> Are there any tips or tricks to getting the angles / joints right, or should I just try my best to get everything lined up?


Just take your bag of different angles up there and a section of pipe and see what will work! See where you can cut and things will line up.

There are more angles available at a big plumbing supply.

Cutting higher or lower on the pipe coming up under the old roof will change your angles. Bring a tape measure/marking pen and allow for what needs to go into each fitting.

If you make a mistake, saw it off, add a coupling, and try again! This is very forgiving!

P.S. Take a bucket up there to catch the water from that pipe.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

OhmZoned said:


> I will make sure that there is a proper boot up there - maybe lead if I can find it. I am in Philadelphia, so we get similar weather which lately means 20+ inches of snow at a time
> 
> What does the actual flashing get adhered with? If I already have a rubber boot (which I think they just replaced this year), what can I use to seal it up until I can replace it when I redo the roof (thinking 2-3 years)?


The lead "sleeve" is folded down over the top of the vent pipe, toward the inside of the pipe:


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Went up on the roof with a local roofing company. I can see spots where the roof deck is not even, also it looks like the nails are popping up under some of the shingles. I'm not shocked it's leaking a bit. The vent stack is ok - may need to be reseated.

I think I am going to just bang the nails down and apply some roof tar\caulk in spots to get me through the winter. Then in the spring I may just rip the back roof off and redo it so I can really see what's underneath.

As for the vent stack - I am going to do see if I can fix the leak tomorrow when I am back on the roof. Then work my way back to correctly pitch the pipe and just do it right.

:thumbsup:


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Hi everyone - I went up on the roof and banged down the nails, dabbed with tar and checked boot seals, etc. patched it well enough to stop the leaking from what I can tell. I will need a new roof in the next year or so, but this will get me through a season or two. 
,
Also redid the angle of the vent pipe to drain downwards. Air sealed and insulated the attic with R60 cellulose. Sealed the attic hatch. Done. 

Much appreciation for the people who contributed to the conversation. On to the next project. 

B


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

OhmZoned said:


> On to the next project.


You can take a 12-pack up there with a radio and and do some observing. Could buy you some time from that next item on the list.


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

No more leaking?

FYI - I like it when I take the time to fix something right. Then the problem is solved for good!


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

Spent 4 hours up there in a very heavy and rainy 2 days. I can still see where the plywood need to be repaired, but that will get done, correctly when I redo the roof in the spring. 


I agree do it once. Thanks!


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

OhmZoned said:


> I will have to see about getting on to the roof, but the pipe looks more tilted in the picture. I checked it out with a level, it is not sloping upwards, but it is just barely sloping downwards. Should I just try to patch the PVC with something?


how about a picture with the level on there,it looks to me like its screaming down hill also!


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

Just cut the thing off and use an air admittance valve. Problem solved.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

md2lgyk said:


> Just cut the thing off and use an air admittance valve. Problem solved.


Yeah thatll solve the problem! :laughing:


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

OhmZoned said:


> Hi everyone - I went up on the roof and banged down the nails, dabbed with tar and checked boot seals, etc. patched it well enough to stop the leaking from what I can tell. I will need a new roof in the next year or so, but this will get me through a season or two.
> ,
> Also redid the angle of the vent pipe to drain downwards. Air sealed and insulated the attic with R60 cellulose. Sealed the attic hatch. Done.
> 
> ...


Please post a couple of pics of your fix.
We like to see that, too!!!

Nice job getting this thing done.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Side observation.....

Obviously, the house has been added on to....the new roof joined to the old one in what is called "California Framing" in my neck of the woods....

I'm asking this because I'll be doing something similar soon.....wouldn't it be better to remove the shingles on the inside?

To the OP...did they at least remove the singles where the new roof joins the old roof?


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## OhmZoned (Oct 30, 2011)

ddawg16 said:


> Side observation.....
> 
> Obviously, the house has been added on to....the new roof joined to the old one in what is called "California Framing" in my neck of the woods....
> 
> ...


I could not imagine the labor to remove these shingles once the roof was on would be worth it. They did mostly remove the shingles where it meets the ajoining wall. However, they just threw them along the edge. No joke - THEY LEFT THE GUTTER inside!

I did the insulation deep enough that even in this extra area, there was a 20" thermal envelope of blown in cellulose. This thermal envelope carried through to the original house.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

Hard to see but the angle on the existing vent and the new 45 are off seem to be forced thus the inverted strap. Looks like you need to reconfigure that venting. You could use a swing hinge set up to relieve the stress but it would not be to code.


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