# Running wires in finished ceiling....



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-tools-flex-bit-auger-3-4-inch-by-72-inch/1000664048


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

Not sure if you can do it, but you could get a right angle drill, a 3/4" screw point spade bit, and some 12inch long drill bit extensions. You would put your drill into the 7 inch hole drill thru the first joist. Remove the drill and bit, and, up above the ceiling, put the extension on the bit, push it through the hole you just drilled, push your drill into the ceiling, and install that extension into your drill, and drill the next hole. Continue doing this until you get thru the 4th joist. Remove the bit from the extension at the last 7 inch hole, and tie or tape your new wire to the extension. Then, at the original 7 inch hole, pull the extensions back one by one.



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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> https://www.homedepot.ca/product/klein-tools-flex-bit-auger-3-4-inch-by-72-inch/1000664048
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ULo4libjxvU


Neal - I tried using that flex bit once. The problem with them is you have very little control of direction after the first hole. Even in that video, his 2nd hole came partially through the edge of the second stud (look closely at that video).

They do have a handle to help you direct that flex bit, but I found it useless at directing the bit after the first hole.

Just my $.02

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## WILL1E (Apr 11, 2019)

jeffmattero76 said:


> Neal - I tried using that flex bit once. The problem with them is you have very little control of direction after the first hole. Even in that video, his 2nd hole came partially through the edge of the second stud (look closely at that video).
> 
> They do have a handle to help you direct that flex bit, but I found it useless at directing the bit after the first hole.
> 
> ...


Exactly my concern after i watched that video.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Using extension or flex bits can be a crap shoot. You can hit other wires, the bit can wander and come thru the ceiling or the floor above. I prefer to cut the drywall at each joist with a 6" hole saw. Drill the joist. Save the plug for the repair, screw in place, caulk around the edge. When the caulk is set, use some drywall mud to add the texture.

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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I am sure it takes practice, it is all about how you bend the shaft, I saw one guy with a drill going thru a 3" ball to get it started 1 1/2 inches from the floor above. 

I would practice in an un finished basement or under a deck first. 

The guys that use them always make it look easy.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

That ball is a great idea, as long as it stays near the end of the shaft. However, that is only on the first stud. The ball is bigger than the hole you are drilling, so it is no help after the first stud.

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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jeffmattero76 said:


> That ball is a great idea, as long as it stays near the end of the shaft. However, that is only on the first stud. The ball is bigger than the hole you are drilling, so it is no help after the first stud.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk


 You still have to work at keeping the shaft straight going into the first joist or stud, I have seen one guy had a tool for holding the shaft is position too. 
see the video here. 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-7-in-Aluminum-Flex-Bit-Placement-Tool-53715SEN/100662388


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## Wiredindallas (Nov 9, 2018)

Do you have crown molding around the perimeter. If so, remove it across the joists allowing you to fish down to the end of the joists space, cross the joists, and back up to the new light. 
If not, consider adding crown molding.


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## Photobug (Jun 25, 2017)

WILL1E said:


> My ceiling is textured so i don't want to put access holes in as i'll never get the texture to match. Also, i'm confident that there are no wires/plumbing/ductwork within those joist that i cannot see into.


Not sure what the texture looks like but they make different spray textures that you can use to repair sheetrock texture. It might take a few attempts but I have been happy with my textured repairs in the past.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-10-oz-Color-Changing-Water-Based-Wall-Texture-4296/204342384

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-2...rol-Water-Based-Wall-Knockdown-4565/203425185


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

use one of these.....



https://www.milwaukeetool.ca/Produc...ood-Drilling/Cable-Bits/Cable-Bits/48-13-8375


you just have to be careful not to hit other wires or pipes


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Wiredindallas said:


> Do you have crown molding around the perimeter. If so, remove it across the joists allowing you to fish down to the end of the joists space, cross the joists, and back up to the new light.
> If not, consider adding crown molding.


Also "out of the box" thinking.... but I had a home that I had to put in 8 ceiling cans and a textured popcorn ceiling I did not to screw with......

It was in the basement with old carpeting on the first floor....it was easier to roll back the carpeting....cut out plywood flooring quickly...and wire from the top.

(Not such a good idea with a finished hardwood floor or tiled...:surprise


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## jreagan (Feb 20, 2015)

No one asked if the ceiling is screwed into slats or directly into the joists. Most 1st floor ceilings I've seen use slat mounting.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

jreagan said:


> No one asked if the ceiling is screwed into slats or directly into the joists. Most 1st floor ceilings I've seen use slat mounting.


Do you mean furring strips?


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## jreagan (Feb 20, 2015)

Yes. I called them slats when I learned, but furring strips is the correct term. Most homes I've seen here in New Hampshire use furring strips for finished ceilings that don't have access from above. Makes it easy to weave new romex into the ceiling.


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