# Crazy?....but how do I install hardwood flooring on wall



## yummy mummy

This may sound wild, but I want to install hardwood flooring on the wall in a very small area.

I was considering installing the regular flooring that I would stain afterwards. I would like to install the prefinished type but I don't want the look of the small groove inbetween the strips.

So I thought that this type of flooring would give me a better look.

The wall is drywalled presently. How would adhere it to the wall?
Would I use small nails and nail at every stud point?

Thanks.


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## Bud Cline

Not crazy at all, this is done all the time.

Assuming you want the boards either horizontal or diagonal...

Locate the studs and mark each one top to bottom. Use construction adhesive on each flooring board and also nail each flooring board to each stud.

If the flooring boards are to be installed vertically...you will have to "fir-out" the wall nailing 1X2's to the studs in a horizontal fashion (16" on center) and then nailing the flooring boards to the firring.:yes:

Piece-O-Cake!


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## yummy mummy

Thanks Bud! 
What you explained is exactly what I was going to do. I am going to place them horizontally.

One more question, if you don't mind. Do I use those small finishing nails, and then sink them into the floor boards? If this is the way I should do it, then what do I use to cover the hole? Is it that wood putty stuff? 

Thanks a lot for your help. You are real doll.


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## Bud Cline

If you are using "full dimension" true-hardwood (oak, cherry, maple, etc.) you may want to predrill the holes to the size of the nail shaft. Drill only through the flooring material, not into the wallboard or stud. Use a #8 finish nail, the nail head will hold the wood. I assume you will also be gluing the boards.

The best way to drill the holes in my experience is to clip the head off of one of the nails and mount it in a high-speed drill motor. Using the nail for a drill bit you can burn-your-way through the wood and make a nice snug hole for the coming nail. This way the resistance will be Nil through the hardwood but there will still be holding friction in the wood. The nail will then also "take" through the wallboard and into the stud.

There are "color putties" available to mask the holes. The putty will still show the holes locations so BE NEAT when installing the nails. This is one of those jobs where you will be graded on your penmanship.:thumbup:


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## nap

you should install the nails in the edge of the wood angled into the stud. (just like you would if installing on the floor). This will prevent any show of nails at all with the exception of the very bottom one where you should nail it near the bottom and into the edge on top. A base moulding would cover up the nail in the face at the bottom.


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## yummy mummy

Bud Cline said:


> If you are using "full dimension" true-hardwood (oak, cherry, maple, etc.) you may want to predrill the holes to the size of the nail shaft. Drill only through the flooring material, not into the wallboard or stud. Use a #8 finish nail, the nail head will hold the wood. I assume you will also be gluing the boards.
> 
> The best way to drill the holes in my experience is to clip the head off of one of the nails and mount it in a high-speed drill motor. Using the nail for a drill bit you can burn-your-way through the wood and make a nice snug hole for the coming nail. This way the resistance will be Nil through the hardwood but there will still be holding friction in the wood. The nail will then also "take" through the wallboard and into the stud.
> 
> There are "color putties" available to mask the holes. The putty will still show the holes locations so BE NEAT when installing the nails. This is one of those jobs where you will be graded on your penmanship.:thumbup:


I have very good penmanship. 
What a great idea of putting the nail on the drill as a bit. I will try that. 

One more thing, I assume I have to sink the holes, with my little "thingy sinker" as I would when installing moulding? 

Thanks very much once again, and believe it or not, I understand your explanation. :yes:


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## yummy mummy

.......and yes, I am gluing the boards.bg


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## yummy mummy

Boy, I have so many questions.....:laughing:

How would I treat an outside corner when putting in the wood?
Could I put a piece of trim and but the floor boards against it?


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## Bud Cline

....or, cap it with outside corner molding.


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## NateHanson

Maybe this is redundant, but it isn't clear to me that you're understanding where the nails go. If using tongue and groove flooring, you install them groove-down, and work your way up, nailing each board only through the tounge, diagonally. That way each board it held on the bottom by it's groove engaging the tongue of the previous board, and held on the top by a blind nail (the nail is covered by the next board's groove. 

Outside corners could be mitered, nailed and glued, or (much simpler) covered with a corner molding.


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## nap

NateHanson said:


> Maybe this is redundant, but it isn't clear to me that you're understanding where the nails go. If using tongue and groove flooring, you install them groove-down, and work your way up, nailing each board only through the tounge, diagonally. That way each board it held on the bottom by it's groove engaging the tongue of the previous board, and held on the top by a blind nail (the nail is covered by the next board's groove.
> 
> Outside corners could be mitered, nailed and glued, or (much simpler) covered with a corner molding.


well, by the advice of using putty, it is obvious this is not the intended method. I gave up awhile back since the OP did not seem interested in hidden nails.


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## Bud Cline

May be my fault. I assumed the OP knew to nail through the tongue and when the question was asked about putty it didn't occur to me they were intending to face-nail. I just tried to answer the putty question.

My bad, maybe.


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## yummy mummy

Sorry, for not making myself clear, I think.....

I understand the tongue and groove thing, because I have them in my home on the floor which are three quarter inch pre finished hardwood, and they are nailed and then hidden as stated by natehanson.

What I am looking for is a flat finish to the wall. I don't want to use the prefinished flooring as that has a bevelled edge. So I assume that the flooring that has no bevelled edge is the one that I would have to nail down. 

I may be wrong with this but let me know. 

Nap===I am very interested in hiding the nails, its the bevelled edge that I don't want.


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## NateHanson

Pre-finished or unfinished - solid 3/4" hardwood flooring is installed the same way. If you want a perfectly flat finished floor, install unfinished T&G flooring, blind-nailing it as discussed above, and then sand the walls to get the boards even, and finish after sanding. The sanding step will be a bit tedious, because you're going to have to do it with a hand-held RO sander, but if the area isn't to large, you can do it. 

Nate


yummy mummy said:


> Sorry, for not making myself clear, I think.....
> 
> I understand the tongue and groove thing, because I have them in my home on the floor which are three quarter inch pre finished hardwood, and they are nailed and then hidden as stated by natehanson.
> 
> What I am looking for is a flat finish to the wall. I don't want to use the prefinished flooring as that has a bevelled edge. So I assume that the flooring that has no bevelled edge is the one that I would have to nail down.
> 
> I may be wrong with this but let me know.
> 
> Nap===I am very interested in hiding the nails, its the bevelled edge that I don't want.


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## nap

what Nate said.

Sorry for being testy but when I suggested the blind nailing and it was simply overlooked, I figured it was not of interest. I guess I saw what was happeing in the post when you didn't and Bud misunderstood what was happening.

No big deal. I was simply picturing this wall with all these exposed nails in it and cringing but hey, if that was what you wanted, it's your wall. Glad to see this got corrected before you started the wall.

You hadn't started the wall yet, right?


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## yummy mummy

nap said:


> what Nate said.
> 
> Sorry for being testy but when I suggested the blind nailing and it was simply overlooked, I figured it was not of interest. I guess I saw what was happeing in the post when you didn't and Bud misunderstood what was happening.
> 
> No big deal. I was simply picturing this wall with all these exposed nails in it and cringing but hey, if that was what you wanted, it's your wall. Glad to see this got corrected before you started the wall.
> 
> You hadn't started the wall yet, right?


Don't be sorry, nap. I was under the impression that all tongue and groove hardwood have a bevelled edge, and since I wanted a flat look, I assumed that they only can be nailed in on the surface. 

I guess what I am asking is does any hardwood flooring come with tongue and groove that would give me a flat look as opposed to a bevelled edge.

No I have not started yet. I still have a ways to go before then, I am still taping the walls when I have a spare moment, between, kids, husband, work, house, garden, sleep......:laughing:

Thanks for your help naphh


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## nap

yes. There is a lot of flooring that fits the bill. Take a cruise to the home supply store of your choice and browse. 

plan on a lot of work sanding the wall though. When the sanding is on the floor, gravity is a wonderful friend. When you are sanding the wall, gravity will not only not help you, it will make your work work.


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## yummy mummy

Thanks Nap. I am going to take a look soon.
It is a small area that I plan on doing. It is were I plan to put the computer and I wanted a feel of a "library, cozy feel" with wood. 

I will post some pics when done.


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## NateHanson

A simpler way to get a library feel would be to put up frame and panel wainscoting. That would be more traditional, and more "library-ish" in my mind. It would also be much less work, IMO. 

You could do it with applied mouldings and veneered plywood panels if you don't have woodworking tools or know-how. I'm sure there are finish carpentry books in the big-box store, library, or book store that show you how to do this. The hardest part would probably be finding hardwood moldings. If you have a router you can make them yourself.


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## yummy mummy

No, I do not have a router, Natehanson.

Do you mean I would put moulding approx. 3 feet up the wall like a chair rail and then wood panelling underneath? 

The wood panelling that I am thinking of, if I am thinking correctly, is that product they used in the 70s in the basements, that had a goove in it every 8 inches or so? My dad has it in his basement. I don't particularly like that look.

Thanks.


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## angus242

Examples of wainscot:











































And some other styles:
http://www.elitemouldings.com/images/which_wainscot_lg.jpg


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## Brik

I did this a while back. I used an engineered laminate. It was installed vertically. I used a small nail at each stud location. The wood was used as wainscoting. I capped it with a chair rail, also attached at the studs. 
Here are some pictures of mine


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## yummy mummy

*angus*

Thanks for posting the pictures. 
The bathroom looks beautiful.

I am familiar with wainscotting, and it looks really nice. But the area that I will be doing is a very small area.
Probably 5 feet by 4 feet. So I thought I would just do all wood.


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## yummy mummy

*brik*

Your bathroom also looks very beautiful, and thanks for posting the pictures.

Does the engineered laminate have a bevelled edge? I don't know if that is what it is called. I have prefinished flooring in my home and at the edge of every plank there is a bevelled edge.

I will have to go and check the engineered laminate at the store.


Thanks again for your time in posting the pics.


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## nap

Now _this _is librarish!










I'd like to see that one made with premade paneling and moulding


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## yummy mummy

*nap*

my libraryish feel would fail by comparison :laughing:

It looks like they are separate panels put together? But what do I know.....maybe someone carving all day for years (sort of like how I am doing my basement.....:laughing


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## Orangeguy

you may want to invest in a 23 gauge headless pin nailer! I build Oak bars quite often and have had no problem driving them 1 3/8 inch into solid oak. remember to keep a firm hand on the nailer and the pins will recess themselves nicely!these pins being headless will allow you to shoot them into the toungue edge of the flooring and easily slip the next board into place ! practice with scraps and have fun! post some pics of your end result , would love to see it!!


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## Brik

yummy mummy said:


> Your bathroom also looks very beautiful, and thanks for posting the pictures.
> 
> Does the engineered laminate have a bevelled edge? I don't know if that is what it is called. I have prefinished flooring in my home and at the edge of every plank there is a bevelled edge.
> 
> I will have to go and check the engineered laminate at the store.
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your time in posting the pics.


Yummy Mummy - Sorry I missed your question in response to my post here. The flooring I used had what was called by the manufacturer a 'micro bevel'. You cant even tell it has a bevel. The wood I used was an Engineered Wood. When I face nailed it I did it at the top and bottom only. The nail heads were covered by the baseboard and the trim under the chair rail. No nail heads seen.

Did you ever do this project? Lets see pictures.

Did you ever finish your basement project?


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## yummy mummy

Hi Brik

No, I still have not finished my basement. But I have not given up yet.
I am getting there.

I have just finished the trim, and I will be getting ready to paint, and then I will be laying some ceramic tiles. Can you believe it. I am almost done.

I will post some pics.


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## moondawg

yummy mummy said:


> Thanks for posting the pictures.
> The bathroom looks beautiful.
> 
> I am familiar with wainscotting, and it looks really nice. But the area that I will be doing is a very small area.
> Probably 5 feet by 4 feet. So I thought I would just do all wood.


 You could cut a piece of *wood_of_choice* plywood to size and nail it up there and be time and money ahead, methinks. You could also use some thin trimstock to emulate the panel effect. I think if I was doing an area that small with hardwood "flooring" I'd go with a 45 deg angle to give it more visual appeal. of coruse, that's VERY subjective! good luck with your project.


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## yummy mummy

Thanks moomdawg.

That is a good idea, but I don't have a circular saw for that. I guess I would have to use my handsaw.

I saw wood veneer that looked interesting the other day. I guess I would put that on with glue?

Then I would have to stain it.


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## moondawg

yummy mummy said:


> Thanks moomdawg.
> 
> That is a good idea, but I don't have a circular saw for that. I guess I would have to use my handsaw.


 Most big-box stores will cut the plywood for you on a panel saw if you give them the dimensions. You could also look on craigslist for a used circular saw. there's cheap tools aplenty over there.


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## Tom Struble

why flooring and not t&g pine or cedar siding?they usually have 1 side beveled and 1 side square


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## yummy mummy

Ok, here goes the dumb question.......:laughing:

What is tongue and groove pine and cedar siding? Where can I go and take a look? Home Depot? 

Also, I don't want the bevelled edge showing. What I would like to get is no groove inbetween, like a whole sheet what there, if possible.

Thanks


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## Chemist1961

Uh, not to open a can of worms here but I just stripped oak flooring off my neighbours wall. Have you considerred all the perforations you might be making in your vapor barrier if this is an insulated wall and will that be an issue in your location?


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## Chemist1961

Sorry I didn't read way back 3 pages but has anyone suggested premium 1/4" plywood with the surface wood of your choice. I had an oak feature wall done this way 20 years ago. It was stunning and applied mainly with adhesive panel caulking. You could cut it to your preferred height and cap it with chair rail or similar. In fact a specialty plywood store would likely cut it for you, first cut free.


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## yummy mummy

Chemist1961 said:


> Uh, not to open a can of worms here but I just stripped oak flooring off my neighbours wall. Have you considerred all the perforations you might be making in your vapor barrier if this is an insulated wall and will that be an issue in your location?


\
One of the walls has insulation and vapour barrier, but I will only be nailing into the studs.


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## Chemist1961

Sorry I thought you were considering laying the flooring vertically up your walls.


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