# Tying in drywall to direct to stud bathtub. Framing too wide



## weatheredwood (Aug 9, 2007)

I'm trying to install this bathtub/shower combo:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aquatic-...-Shower-Wall-in-White-260330SPCL-WH/203910584


The bathroom is already gutted. The framing is 61 1/2 inches wide. Also, the concrete exterior wall is out of plumb.

I leveled and plumbed the bathtub/shower. There will be a minimum gap of 3/4 of an inch on both sides. The exterior wall is so out of plumb that it is probably 1 1/8 gap at the top of the shower and 3/4" at the bottom.

I'm guessing my only option is to fur out both walls. I could try pushing the tub to one side and only fur out one wall, but it seems like a lot of gap to cover. It would be 2 1/4" (existing furring strip plus 1 1/2 gap).

Do you see any other way to do this?

What's the best way to taper a furring strip to account for an out of plumb wall?


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

I have installed a couple of those in my rental properties. We usually make the framing 60 1/4" wide, and pin the tub to the inside wall. At the exterior wall we use strips of 3/4" plywood rather than furring strips since plywood does not split. If your ecterior wall is not plumb, we run a horizontal strip of wood at the widest part of the gap. so that attaching vertical strips to that horizontal piece and to the concrete at the narrower gap gives us a plumb wall. If we need to close the tub opening more to get to 60 1/4", we use whatever is needed. Typically we rip strips of 1/4" luan, 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" plywood to do this, and use whichever thickness is needed. We also use shims if less than 1/4" is needed. 

Also, we always place the tub in a layer of wet Structolite when we install. It stops the tub from flexing with the weight of water and or a person. We then screw the tub perimeter to the framing using truss head screws. 

Be very sure that the tub is absolutely level when you install it. If not, it becomes very difficult to get the walls in properly. 

Good luck.

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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

How about a picture of what you have so we can see what your seeing.
Trying to picture why your not framing this out so everything's the right size, square and plumb.
Makes me wonder what's going on with that back wall from your description.


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## weatheredwood (Aug 9, 2007)

jeffmattero76 said:


> I have installed a couple of those in my rental properties. We usually make the framing 60 1/4" wide, and pin the tub to the inside wall. At the exterior wall we use strips of 3/4" plywood rather than furring strips since plywood does not split. If your ecterior wall is not plumb, we run a horizontal strip of wood at the widest part of the gap. so that attaching vertical strips to that horizontal piece and to the concrete at the narrower gap gives us a plumb wall. If we need to close the tub opening more to get to 60 1/4", we use whatever is needed. Typically we rip strips of 1/4" luan, 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" plywood to do this, and use whichever thickness is needed. We also use shims if less than 1/4" is needed.
> 
> Also, we always place the tub in a layer of wet Structolite when we install. It stops the tub from flexing with the weight of water and or a person. We then screw the tub perimeter to the framing using truss head screws.
> 
> ...



Thanks. It wasn't as out of plumb as I thought. It was about 1/2in out from top to bottom. I just shimmed furring strips along the back wall and pushed the tub assembly to the other side. 


On another note, how do you like using these all in one assemblies? The one I'm installing is in a rental property as well. I have another one I need to do in the near future. I'm debating on whether or not to go the same route or not. The pros and cons of installing an all in one to me are:

Pros:
-don't have to backer board and tile
-inexpensive
-seems like it would be easy to maintain for the tenants

Cons:
-have to do drywall patching
-have to remove door jamb and framing

I'm not sure if it saved a lot of time for me doing it this way. I've, also, never done any tile work, so I don't know how much of a pain in would be.


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## weatheredwood (Aug 9, 2007)

joecaption said:


> How about a picture of what you have so we can see what your seeing.
> Trying to picture why your not framing this out so everything's the right size, square and plumb.
> Makes me wonder what's going on with that back wall from your description.



I'm just doing a bathroom remodel. The walls are already framed and I do not want to have to reframe it. I only removed the drywall on the inside of the bathroom. The exterior wall is just a concrete block wall with furring strips. I'm not sure why the framed the walls at 61.5 inches instead of 60.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

weatheredwood said:


> Thanks. It wasn't as out of plumb as I thought. It was about 1/2in out from top to bottom. I just shimmed furring strips along the back wall and pushed the tub assembly to the other side.
> 
> 
> On another note, how do you like using these all in one assemblies? The one I'm installing is in a rental property as well. I have another one I need to do in the near future. I'm debating on whether or not to go the same route or not. The pros and cons of installing an all in one to me are:
> ...


Tiling is easy. The problem with tile is that tenants don't seem to clean it. I am tired if scrubbing and sometimes having to scrape out old grout and regrouting. Ibstarted using the 4 piece tubs and showers about 7 years ago. So far i am happy with them. Far easier to keep clean and to shine up between tenants. No caulk joints either.

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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

One question... Why do you have to remove the door jamb and framing? In all of my installs, the new tub and surround was no wider than the old tub. I always had to pack the 60 inch dimension to get the framing opening to be 60 1/4" but never had to make alterations for the width dimension.

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## weatheredwood (Aug 9, 2007)

jeffmattero76 said:


> One question... Why do you have to remove the door jamb and framing? In all of my installs, the new tub and surround was no wider than the old tub. I always had to pack the 60 inch dimension to get the framing opening to be 60 1/4" but never had to make alterations for the width dimension.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk



I'm using the one piece shower/buthtub. The doorway isn't wide enough to slide the whole unit in. I think it measures around 31 inches.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

weatheredwood said:


> I'm using the one piece shower/buthtub. The doorway isn't wide enough to slide the whole unit in. I think it measures around 31 inches.


Ok. Now I understand. I have only used the 4 piece units. 

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