# Lay sheetrock over fireplace with wood burning insert???



## amycarlson (May 22, 2008)

OK, so I have this in the remodel section as well, but am getting ZERO replies. Anyone have input???

Hi guys! I'm new to the forum, and I need some HELP! We are wanting to reface our lovely pinkish-colored brick fireplace. I have a couple of questions. What I'd like to do is to sheetrock the upper part of the fireplace and hang an LCD above (frame around w/ 1x2s to leave a space for cords behind the sheetrock). Is that OK to do? I've been trying to figure out the code, and it says no combustable material, and I realize sheetrock is combustable, but I am assuming that since it will be over 12" away from the opening I would be alright. Correct? As a sidenote, we never use the insert...so heat really isn't an issue, but obviously would like things done to code in case we move.

Next, we plan on squaring the opening and putting granite over the surface of the bottom area. 
Am I OK to add a wood mantle over the granite? I will have about 16in of clearance from the bottom of where I want the mantle after we square the opening. I'm going to attempt to attach pics.

Thanks in advance for the help!!!!


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

If the insert is a permanent fixture, I'd look at it as a woodburning stove, not a conventional fireplace. It really depends on the inspector though. The code doesn't say anything about wood stoves, except that they must be installed in accordance with their listing (manufacturer's instructions). So, your manual should have all the required clearances. 

Is that a functional fireplace? Only reason I ask is it looks more like a brick niche...I think I see an electric receptacle in there???

To answer your questions...
-Yes, drywall is considered a combustible product due to the paper faces
-1x material and sheetrock can be used, as long as the code clearances are maintained.
-Your mantle/TV locations should not be an issue at 16" height above the firebox opening.
-Your best bet is to maintain code clearances from the firebox and not the insert, that way there won't ever be an issue if you sell.


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## amycarlson (May 22, 2008)

Thanks so much for your input! Nope, it's not a functional fireplace. I'm not sure if it ever was--we aren't the first owners, so I'm not too sure what happened before we moved in. And yes, that is an electrical inside the fireplace. 

I don't, unfortunately, have the manual--but I suppose I could try to find the manual and look it up online. You pretty much confirmed what I was thinking after searching through all related threads and info I could find on the internet...so yippee! Here's to getting rid of the lovely brick. 

Thanks again!
Amy :thumbup:


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

I agree the brick is pretty bad looking at least from the pic.but a fireplace adds alot of charm to a room so my point is have you considered do something else to it.I have seen a few threads on here from people painting or even tiling over their fire place brick and even then you could still add that mantel and the LCD you want but maybe even put a small electric insert for a little warmth to the room.I dint know just a few suggestions I like fire places and hate to see them covered up,also makes a good focal point in a room and a good selling point if your planning to in the future


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## amycarlson (May 22, 2008)

Hi clasact! Yeah, the brick's awful. 

We aren't completely getting rid of the fireplace...we are doing granite tiles around the bottom and the hearth, and then adding a mantle...we'll still keep it as a fireplace for resale. I don't love the look of fireplace all the way to the ceiling, so I wanted to lose that...plus in order to create a runway for the cords, we felt like building a 1" space behind sheetrock would be the easiest. Hopefully it turns out looking grand! 

Thanks for the thoughts!


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

please take before and after photos I am sure we all would like to see how it comes out thanks


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

You could use 5/8" type X gypsum board. It's fire-rated for at least 1 hour. Like thekctermite said, better to keep it close to code as possible in case you sell.
GP has some that MIGHT be sold at a Lowes or a Parr Lumber (in your area):
http://www.gp.com/build/product.aspx?pid=5451


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Type X gypsum board is still considered combustible by the code, because of its paper face. The core is 100% non-combustible. Although it is typically incorporated into fire-rated assemblies, it's face will still burn or smolder. 5/8" rock alone will not give 1 hour fire resistance. I'm thinking the IBC gives it a 30 minute spec on its own, but 1 hour resistance will only be achieved when applied to both sides of a rated wall assembly, or combined with floor sheathing, joists, and airspace in a 1 hour floor-ceiling assembly. Regardless, none of the fire ratings apply in this situation. 

If you're doing tile on it, do it right and use cementitious backer board. It is non-combustible and will provide a great substrate for your tiles.


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

While I'm not questioning your statement, I'm simply justifying what I said based off the manufacturers specifications:
_"5/8" type X wallboard is required to be manufactured in accordance with established ASTM standards defining type X wallboard as that which provides not less than one-hour fire resistance when tested in specified building assemblies/systems in a laboratory setting under certain controlled conditions and pursuant to certain ASTM procedures."
_I would find it hard to believe that GP can state this about one of their products and not have it be true.
I'm no inspector but as a contractor, I have to go by what the manufacturer says their product specs are. If I'm required to put a 1 hour fire rated material in place, based off what GP states about ToughRock, I would use it. I may be wrong but if I got flagged for using it, I would definitely be going back to GP complaining.....


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

Her'e some pics of something a _little_ similar.

J


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

angus242 said:


> _ when tested in specified building assemblies/systems _


That's the key phrase Angus. When incorporated into a rated assembly (typically a UL or Gypsum Association listing), their rock is certainly capable of meeting the 1 hour rating. GP's certainly not giving false information, but there's more to it. Fact is, there are NO listings for 1 hour walls that have one layer of 5/8" or any other thickness on one side of a wall. The key word _*assembly*_, requires that multiple products work in conjunction to create a system that is fire resistant for one hour. That includes studs, fasteners, possibly some insulation, electrical/HVAC/plumbing penetration treatment, and a layer of material on _each side_ of the assembly. Since you can't tell which side of an assembly a fire will come from, the assembly will always be self contained and protected equally from both sides, with the purpose of protecting the structural members as well as preventing the premature spread of fire through a separating membrane. A common one hour wall will be 2x4's 16"oc with 5/8" rock on both sides screwed 8" oc. That assembly will retain its structural integrity and prevent passage of fire for one hour, and will pass a firehose stream destruction test after the burn ends. 
I can't tell you how many times I've had builders hang rock on one side of a wall and think that they've created a one hour assembly. 

Not trying to take this off the subject, but it is good info for builders and people who work in duplexes, apartments, condo's, and other multifamily structures that have rated assemblies separating occupants' units.

Nice looking work Jay123!


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

OK, makes sense about the assembly.
However, in this case, wouldn't you feel comfortable using type X since the backside of the gypsum would be the brick? Yes, there would be an air gap between the gypsum and the brick because of the framing, but it shouldn't be large enough to actually feed a fire. Besides, the brick is actually the insulator from the firebox outward. Type X I assume would just be overkill at this point anyway. I guess....and that's just a guess, the biggest concern would be what is used directly above the firebox opening as a horizontal mantel piece. 
Jay used a stone surround which keeps the firebox a ways from the mantel. And his mantel doesn't protrude too far out from the wall where heat could build up underneath.
In this case, I'd feel pretty safe if you went the same route as Jay did. Keep some stone over CBU to the horizontal brick mantel. From there, Type X up and you should be good to go.
That's just my opinion. thekctermite is the inspector so his word would be better than mine. Perhaps even submit a proposal to your local building inspector. They should have the final word on what's OK anyway.

Good luck,
Angus


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Like Angus said, sheetrock is a good product for this application. I'd only caution you about getting it within an inch or two of the stove itself, because you don't want the paper face to get enough direct heat to cause it to smolder. Angus is right about the space being small and tight, and inlikely to cause actual ignition. The moisture in the sheetrock itself will really help the paper face resist actual burning, especially when it is choked off from a good amount of open air.

If you're getting a permit for the work, your best bet really is to call and discuss with the inspector. Ultimately, it will be his/her decision whether or not to allow the installation. They'll likely base their decision on the installation requirements provided by the manufacturer of the stove unit. I'd suggest coming up with a copy of that and basing your decision on what it says, permit or not. :thumbsup:


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## amycarlson (May 22, 2008)

Hey all! OK, so here's where we are. We ended up getting slab installed on the bottom, but we did the mantle and the sheetrock. I'm pretty happy with it!!! Not sure if I want to paint the brick inside to hide it or not...I'll have to keep thinking. Opinions are welcome. We're still obviously waiting for the granite to set since there are clamps on there!


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