# Drip Edge Gaps



## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

Hi Everyone
I just had a roof done about a month ago and realized that there are some serious defects with it.

Specifically several gaps, as well as what appears to be drip edge run behind the brand new gutter also provided by the roofer.

I spoke with the roofer and his proposed resolution consists of making a metal "cap" not sure what that consists of to go over the gap.

So, I was thinking that he should remove the gutter and evenly nail down the drip edge as well as make sure the gutter is flush to the fascia boards.

I called GAF and they did not approve of the installation but are unable to give a formal answer.

I just want to see that this is done correctly.

Professional opinions anyone?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That looks like something they made there self. Sure does not look like any drip cap I've ever seen.
Also it only gets nailed into the sheathing, not the fascia. 
Looks like poop to me. I'd make them take it all off and add real drip edge.


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## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

They did have a breaker bar for the L metal, and when I asked about D Style drip edge (after calling GAF) his explanation was that it was something that the roofing company does extra and doesn't require drip edge.

I'm pretty sure it was only nailed into the sheathing, how can I require them to install the drip edge correctly?

When I asked him about removing gutters his response was something along the lines of being completely unnecessary and absolutely sure of his answer to cap it off

Upon further review of the contract I have, the wording is ..."Install metal drip edge on all eaves"...

Thing is I don't know if that ties him to using actual drip edge or just bending it himself

Going further when I asked him why the decking was showing in the gap, his answer was that the roof could be warped causing the metal to sit wrong



So I guess my real question is that since the original roof was flat is he really justified by suggesting the roof is uneven causing the drip edge to sit with gaps or is that just a poor excuse for doing less work?


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## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1 No way would I have ever installed a drip edge just on the eaves. It needed to be on all outside edges of the roof. Without it on the rakes water can get in behind the fascia coil stock.
I have been guilty of making my own drip cap on site because someone had left the plywood to far back from the outside edges and the box store drip cap would have been to short. But no way would I have made it as long as they did. That just looks stupid.
If for some strange reason I did have to have it exposed like that I would have bent a hem on the bottom edge and bent that hem at a slight angle so the water, did not just run down the face of the fascia.
The hem would have help keep the metal flat to the fascia instead of all wrinkled like yours are.
It is possible that the plywood is not flat where it meets the fascia, It's most often caused when someone has installed the fascia to high and the plywood is sitting on top of it, when nailed down it curls the plywood.
But if they had of also done the rakes it would have covered up that whole gap.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

What Joe said. That isn't drip edge. Without the hemmed overhang like you see on the premade drip edge, water will follow the metal all the way down the fascia instead of dripping into the gutter. I don't know why a company would bother to take the time to bend something up when they should be buying the decent premade drip edge by the boxfuls. And if they were going to bend their own, bend it right, with the hem, like Joe said. That looks awful sloppy to me.
Mike Hawkins


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The contractor that did that work needs to apply at wall mart as a door greeter just in case wall mart ever reinstates that position.


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## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

By no means am I taking the contractors side but can anyone find where it says it is unacceptable to install drip edge by bending metal like this?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Unless the contract states that the metal will be shop/site formed or prebuilt you really have no recourse there, especially if you have paid 100%. 

What's worse then it looks like crap is it is completely installed wrong, the face goes on top of the flange of the gutter, not behind, when it rains you may as well not even have a gutter there. 

The metal should have been Hemmed (folded 180 degs) and then the Hem should have been "kicked" (22-30 Degs) The hem is for strength, and the kick is so water drips off and less likely to wick around and go behind everything. 

But honestly the most conserning things are that the metal doesn't over lap the gutter edge, and the gaps. The gutter needs to 100% come off and be rehung to fix this. 

Not to kick anyone while they are down, but I'm willing to guess that this was the lowest bidder.

This is a perfectly good example of why some contractors are more expensive then others. If this was my job, and one of our crews left a roof like this, they would have been back out fixing before you had to fight with me about fixing it. In fact there would have been no fighting, only me apologizing. Sadly this type of work and "customer service" gives all of the legitimate contractors a bad name. 

One thing you might do is buy the prebuilt drip edge, menards, homedepot where ever and have them install it, but to be honest I wouldn't be so sure about letting them back up on my home again, I'd probably try someone else, you would be surprised how flexible companies are when it comes to new clients. We for one are happy to fix someone else's poor work, even giving a bit of a discount if it will lead to other projects ect, referrals are great to have.


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

I just dealt with something similar today, about 70' of drip edge, behind the trough. Had to put all the spikes in a 8-10' section and pull it out, we were doing the whole roof so it wasn't a huge issue but man what an incompetent thing way to do it. Naturally someone tried to caulk the back of the trough to *fix* it, making it all that much more pleasant.

If your getting in a pro to fix it, get them to add some kick outs to your porch. 
There's no need for premade drip edge if the site broken stuff is well done, I bend my own out of 0.024 coil for most roofs we do. I wouldn't be too concerned about the drip less rakes, with the 1"+ of overhang they used its unlikely for water to wick that far back.


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## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

Earlier today I noticed in some other areas on the gutter, the drip edge is in sections, with some parts of it ending before the gutter so the fascia is completely visible and in some areas overlapping the gutter and going behind in others.

If they refuse to do it over, is my best recourse to reach out to other contractors and get quotes to fix it followed by hiring an attorney and taking it up in small claims court?

Also, is the gutter supposed to tip towards the end that has the downspout? I'm noticing its slanted in one direction.


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## paintdrying (Jul 13, 2012)

What is the best way then too fix this mess. Gutter comes off. Old drip edge removed? New drip edge face nailed to the fascia? New drip edge nail to the sheathing from above?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Yes the gutters needed to be installed at a slight angle towards the down spout.
Drip cap never should be nailed to the face of the fascia, only into the sheathing.
Also if your not going to install gutter guards it's a good idea to at least install screens at the top of the down spout so they do not plug up inside them.
See how there so called drip cap is all wavy? It's because they did not hem it and add a slight bend.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

There is really no sense arguing with someone who does work like this. If they are looking right at this crap, and they will not admit that it is crap, whats the point?

The specifications and drawings I include with my project manuals would probably catch something like this because what they did would not look like "the picture", and what they did would not comply with the verbiage in the specifications.

The problem is that when you have a proposal that becomes a contract that says something like "Provide drip edge" you really have no clue what you are getting, as it is down to the discretion of the provider.

In a court of law, aesthetics usually goes out the window, and the only question that is asked is "Does what the contractor provided serve the purpose for which it was intended" 

If the answer is yes, which I suspect it is in your case, you are wasting your time initiating a suit. 

This guy was obviously the low bidder, so you hopefully have some money to fix this mess.


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## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

My fascia boards were already wrapped in aluminum before I had the gutters installed for a number of years, so the bare wood is behind the aluminum covering.

Is the drip edge that goes in front and behind of the gutter capable of causing any damage or since the fascia board? 

I'm trying to gauge how big of a deal it is.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It may not "hurt" the fascia but it will allow water to run down between the gutters and the fascia leaving black marks every time it rains.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Bringing up a law suit probably wouldn't be wise, unless the contract states exactly what is to be done, and they did not do that. What I see is just plain improper install techniques. They used the materials they said the would correct? If they did a law suit will be a waste of time and money for you.

Find a different contractor to fix it correctly and use the money you would be spending on an attorney on fixing it properly. 

Chalk it up to a lesson learned. Next time check references, visit jobs the contractor has done before, and never pay 100% for a incomplete job. 

It may not hurt to leave it like it is, it is not right, or good, lots of things can happen long term when your dealing with water/moisture. 

In a industry where X amount down is the norm, I/we will not work with other contractors like that, if we sub something out, Masonry, shingles, HVAC, they get paid either on total job completion, or once their work is done and up to our satisfaction. 

On the rare occasion we will pay for materials bought for the job, but labor ect is with held until it's completed to our satisfaction. If the contractor doesn't have the cash reserves to put up front either they are in a tight spot or haven't been around long enough. To me it shows a healthy business. We only will ask for any type of payment before work begins if the customer has had problems in the past or there is some other known situation.


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## itsme1127 (Jul 11, 2013)

I made some calls and found a contractor that had a similar opinion. He gave me the number of their regional GAF guy, and he said he could look at it.

As soon as I can get a hold of this contractor that I'm working with now I'll figure my next steps depending on whether he does the right thing or not.


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

They actually took the time to make that lousy flashing, that particular way, knowing THEY were also going to install gutters. 

Odd that they didnt get either of them right. 

Trying to defend that makes it even worse. 

If they got this wrong then i have to wonder about the quality of your roof installation.


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