# maple vs. oak vs. other - need a tree suggestion



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Before you pick a tree, you need to pick a better spot, just think in 20 years that 2 in tree is going to be maybe 20 in, maybe more. That spot is way to close to both the drive and sidewalk.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I concur. Your local nursery can be more specific, but, in general, you want to consider that the roots will extend as far as the canopy, so, as the tree gets larger, the roots extend farther. And, no, you do not want to assume that a concrete driveway would stop the roots from getting under it; nor would you want it to. There's a reason that trees make a loud noise when they fall (unless of course nobody is around, in which case the questions remains as to whether it makes noise if nobody hears it). They are heavy, and you need a solid root structure to keep that weight vertical. Trees with unbalanced or shallow root structures are the first to make the headlines, laying across someones automobile. Some trees that look real nice on a drive by are not necessarily suitable to a well manicured lawn. As an example, maples typically have a beautiful canopy, with lots of pleasant shade. The drawback is that their roots take in every bit of moisture they can in order to feed that canopy. Consequently, the ground under them is not only shaded, but starving for moisture, and you often see maples with large patches of barren soil under them. And how soon do you want shade? If you're in it for the long haul, and can wait, the options are greater. For something in the next few years, the price goes up as the options go down. A lot of considerations, the first probably being placement, and then I would spend some time with one of the experts at the local nursery.


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## Ariadne (May 9, 2014)

I'm not a tree expert, but questions I would ask at the nursery would have to do with what type of soil you have, the hardiness of the species in question, and what zone it's appropriate for. You may have already done this; just pitching in my two coppers.


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## denemante (Apr 2, 2010)

I actually did spend some time talking to the local nursery people asking all these same questions...but generally just got "no problem, you'll be fine". Perhaps they are just wanting to sell trees.

Is there a species of tree that doesn't get huge or suck all the water from the grass? Other than it looking nice, my goal is really to have perhaps a 15 foot-ish area of shade a small group of people can sit in to avoid the sun. And I do hope to cut the branches up to about 6-7 feet so you can see past the tree.


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## Ariadne (May 9, 2014)

I don't know about the water consumption, but my first thoughts go to a dogwood or Japanese maple (?) But I also don't know the average height of those species; they may not be tall enough for what you want.


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## LostSouls70 (May 13, 2014)

Just remember oaks grow really slow and if your going to get a maple watch out for Silver Maples and Big Leaf Maples both of these trees are very brittle.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GZAG_enUS428US428&q=sugar+maple


or a hybrid red maple( October glory?) would be nice

just NOT where you have the X


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## Indepspirit (Apr 30, 2014)

Your location is to close to the driveway but it doesn't mean you can't have a tree in your front yard. In general, the taller the tree, the further away from the driveway it should be planted. Small trees that won't grow more than 30 feet tall can be planted as close as 3 feet from the pavement. Medium-size trees that grow to a maximum average height of around 50 feet should be located at least 6 feet from the driveway. Trees taller than 50 feet might not even fit into the average home yard, but if they are an option, they should be planted no closer than 8 feet from the driveway.

Trees are generally divided into two groups by root type—tap root trees (such as oaks, hickory, walnut, conifers) and lateral, or fibrous, root trees (maples, ash, cottonwood)—this distinction is most evident as seedlings or saplings. Once the tree is planted and begins to mature, the distinctions between the root types become less pronounced. Then, the depth and lateralness of the roots is greatly dependent on the soil condition. Highly compacted soils, soils with low oxygen content and soils where the water table is near the surface are not likely to produce a strong tap root. Their roots are more likely to be lateral and located very near the surface with the majority of the roots located in the top 12 inches of soil. Also, it is important to realize that the spread of the roots can be at least 2 to 4 times greater than the drip line of the branches.

Avoid planting lateral rooted tree species near sidewalks and driveways. Norway maple, red maple, sugar maple, ash, sweetgum, tuliptree, pin oak, poplars and cottonwoods, willows and American elm are examples of shallow rooted trees.

Install root barriers along the tree-side edge of the sidewalk and driveway. The barrier will force tree roots to grow deep below the sidewalk, thus preventing heaving. Barriers can be made of plastic or geotextile fabric. It should extend one foot deep and at least 5 or 6 feet in both directions from the point on the sidewalk edge closest to the tree.

All that said, here are some trees that are recognized as having tap roots. All of these would be considered medium-sized or small trees with a maximum height of less than 50 feet and will grow well in your zone.

Fraxinus texensis (Texas ash) has a rapid growth rate and is long-lived, 30 to 45 feet. It also has beautiful fall foliage. 
Acer grandidentatum (bigtooth maple) has both a tap root system and lateral roots, a moderate growth rate up to 50 feet and beautiful fall foliage. 
Juglans microcarpa (little walnut) has a moderate growth rate of 20 to 50 feet. 
Quercus buckleyi (Buckley oak) has moderate growth of 15 to 50 feet and colorful fall foliage. 
Cercis canadensis (eastern redbud) has a rapid growth rate of 15 to 30 feet.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Inde....stick around.....your the kind of member we need....great info....I learned something today...


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## Indepspirit (Apr 30, 2014)

ddawg16 said:


> Inde....stick around.....your the kind of member we need....great info....I learned something today...


Thanks ddawg on the other parts of this forum I can't be of much help but have been doing landscape development for 30+ years so hopefully I've learned a few things.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

ddawg16 said:


> Inde....stick around.....your the kind of member we need....great info....I learned something today...


 
I think he knows more than me, but I have been away from the tree business for a long time now.:wink:


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Good info Indepspirit.

Do you think the emerald ash borer will effect the Texas ash as recommended?


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## Indepspirit (Apr 30, 2014)

47_47 said:


> Good info Indepspirit.
> 
> Do you think the emerald ash borer will effect the Texas ash as recommended?


Good point and it is possible. I forgot that they have recently shown up in GA but not up to date on that area so not sure how many there are. You may want to check that out before you decided. There are insecticides that work to some degree if a tree is infected but as with all chemicals there are possible side effects from them. If there is a decent chance that they may be in your area I would avoid the Texas ash will save you headaches down the road.


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## westleykarcher (Apr 7, 2014)

I have to mention that placing a tree, especially oak within 10 feet from concrete you will no doubt have cracked and lifted concrete. I can post pictures where it did this in two different places under my driveway. Oak tends to die off once oak wilt disease sets in. I would suggest a hardy black berry tree. You can trim them to any size or just let it go and it will reach a good full 30 feet or so. The berries are delicious but you will attract alot of birds including blue birds and red birds. Not too much issue with insects, but I always spray the base of my trees when I do my monthly pest control. Doesn't require alot of water, lawn maintenance watering will suffice.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Maples love to seek out water sources during droughts. It all depends on what is common in your neighborhood. If mostly ornamental type trees, not fast growing ones. You may want to take a walk or drive around the neighborhood.

If you have not talked to neighbors. Going over and chatting up when they are done cutting the grass, or out with the kids or washing vehicles is the best time. Talk to the landscaping companies that do yard work in your neighborhood.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

westleykarcher said:


> I have to mention that placing a tree, especially oak within 10 feet from concrete you will no doubt have cracked and lifted concrete. I can post pictures where it did this in two different places under my driveway. Oak tends to die off once oak wilt disease sets in. I would suggest a hardy black berry tree. You can trim them to any size or just let it go and it will reach a good full 30 feet or so. The berries are delicious but you will attract alot of birds including blue birds and red birds. Not too much issue with insects, but I always spray the base of my trees when I do my monthly pest control. Doesn't require alot of water, lawn maintenance watering will suffice.


 
no such thing 

and if you mean mulberry, they are a terrifically dirty species, not good:no:


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## westleykarcher (Apr 7, 2014)

My bad it is a mulberry fruit. The tree is a species native to Russia called Shelkovitsa. If planted away from driveways or walkways the mess you speak of is not noticable. We usually have a hard time keeping the birds from eating all of the fruit before it becomes ripe.

If i had a choice between a Maple or Oak. I would choose Maple. I have both species in my back yard and already had to chop down both oak trees due to disease. We seem to be having a large number of oaks dying off due to disease and drought here in Texas. Maple and Pecan trees seems to be thriving though.


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