# Electric range power cord



## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

I'm not sure on any codes, but it's a whole lot easier to pull the stove out with the plug there. Those cords aren't usually that long. 
Why not reuse the cord/plug off the old stove?


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

roughneck said:


> I'm not sure on any codes, but it's a whole lot easier to pull the stove out with the plug there. Those cords aren't usually that long.
> Why not reuse the cord/plug off the old stove?


The stove is being relocated and there is a good 5 feet of hard wire that will be available behind the new stove.

Anyway, I sold the old stove with the plug attached.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

If there's that much just hardwire it then. Shouldn't be an access issue.


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## chitownken (Nov 22, 2012)

Be sure to put the proper flexible conduit over it. Can't have exposed NM cable (romeo) behind the stove.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

roughneck said:


> If there's that much just hardwire it then. Shouldn't be an access issue.



Code probably wouldn't be applicable in this case, but both code and common sense requires a method of disconnect at the appliance, which a cord and recepticle does well.

Use a cord cap:wink:


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

I got to thinking about that after I posted, around here we have a line of site disconnect electrical code, which can be interpreted several ways. 
I did startup on a peice of rooftop equipment one time, when I asked about why there was no disconnect I was told by the installer that he could see the breaker panel from a skylight beside the unit, so it was ok.........


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

ZZZZZ said:


> The *stove is being relocated and there is a good 5 feet of hard wire* that will be available behind the new stove.
> 
> Anyway, I sold the old stove with the plug attached.


By code you are not allowed to relocate (or extend) a 3 wire range circuit. Code calls for that circuit to be replaced with a 4 wire circuit.

If you are doing work in the kitchen that requires a permit, the inspector may require it.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

roughneck said:


> I got to thinking about that after I posted, around here we have a line of site disconnect electrical code, which can be interpreted several ways.
> I did startup on a peice of rooftop equipment one time, when I asked about why there was no disconnect I was told by the installer that he could see the breaker panel from a skylight beside the unit, so it was ok.........


That sounds like a misinterpretation by the lazy electrician


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Anti-wingnut said:


> That sounds like a misinterpretation by the lazy electrician


It happens more then you'd think, more lazyness then misinterpretation


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

roughneck said:


> It happens more then you'd think, more lazyness then misinterpretation


After running commercial and industrial work for 30 years, it doesn't happen on my jobs


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

rjniles said:


> By code you are not allowed to relocate (or extend) a 3 wire range circuit. Code calls for that circuit to be replaced with a 4 wire circuit.
> 
> If you are doing work in the kitchen that requires a permit, the inspector may require it.


Perhaps "relocate" is a poor choice of words on my part.

The old range was situated in a peninsula. I demo'd the entire peninsula (to open direct access to the dining room) and the new range will go right where the peninsula had connected to the main counter/base cabinets.

The 220 wiring ran under the floor (in the crawlspace) and up through a hole in the sub-floor to the peninsula. I'm not planning on moving the wiring, just bringing it up through the subfloor in a different position, about 4 feet closer to the electric panel. hence the extra length of wiring now available.

Is this permissible?

When browsing for a new range at Big Orange, I asked the guy why the range mfg's don't include a power cord. He said (FWIW) about half of range installations are hard-wired (without a plug/receptacle.)


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Depends on how the inspector views it (not how you or anyone on this forum views it). What you are doing is a relocation and strictly by code you should replace the existing with a 4 wire circuit and the proper 4 wire *range *cord.


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Anti-wingnut said:


> Use a cord cap:wink:


What's a cord cap? :wink:


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

ZZZZZ said:


> What's a cord cap? :wink:


Another way to say use a range cord.


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## jimn (Nov 13, 2010)

When I bought my stove from my local appliance dealer they threw in the cord for no cost , delivered and installed the cord and stove. The price of the stove was 10 dollars more than the Orange box. The orange box price did not include delivery.


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

jimn01 said:


> When I bought my stove from my local appliance dealer they threw in the cord for no cost , delivered and installed the cord and stove. The price of the stove was 10 dollars more than the Orange box. The orange box price did not include delivery.


I live in a small town in the middle of nowhere and there are no independent local appliance dealers. I have 3 choices: Orange box, Red and Blue box, and a Sears mini-store. All 3 will deliver for free. Not sure if that includes anything beyond bringing it into my kitchen. I'm still shopping around for a bargain clearance or scratch and dent, whatever. I wasn't too impressed with their "Black Friday" sales. :no:


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

ZZZZZ said:


> Perhaps "relocate" is a poor choice of words on my part.
> 
> The old range was situated in a peninsula. I demo'd the entire peninsula (to open direct access to the dining room) and the new range will go right where the peninsula had connected to the main counter/base cabinets.
> 
> ...


He is wrong. The reason that you have to buy the cord is the manufacturer doesn't know if you have a 3 wire receptacle, or a 4 wire receptacle.

I have never seen a free standing stove hardwired.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

jbfan said:


> He is wrong. The reason that you have to buy the cord is the manufacturer doesn't know if you have a 3 wire receptacle, or a 4 wire receptacle.
> 
> I have never seen a free standing stove hardwired.


I have seen hundreds of stoves hard wired, some manufactures even give you terminal lugs to use with their new stoves.


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## talukdar (Mar 29, 2015)

Actually, this kind of problem do not happen. So, you need not to be so worried.


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