# Installing sill pan/flashing for new patio door..?



## joecaption

The best way is to use one of these. it comes in two pieces so it's fully adjustable.
http://jamsill.com/


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

Thanks Joe, only problem I have with that is that I can't get it here by this weekend (and they don't have a local dealer).. damn. Should've posted this thread last week..  If I was to make the flashing myself out of Al flashing that should do the trick as well right? It's supposed to be a clear weekend, and I need to get it done..


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

Ok, after some more searching it seems like this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_288882-711-...t=vycor&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=vycor&facetInfo=

might be the best option for me. Peel and stick Al flashing. Thanks Joe for your help!


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## kwikfishron

Yes, you can use the peel and stick. Just make sure that it comes out and down over the deck ledger flashing. You'll need to remove the first deck board to do it right.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

Ok sounds good. The deck actually sits ~5" below the threshold, so I should be good to go. If you can see it in the picture, there's a solid piece of wood that runs right below the threshold rather than siding. I guess I can run the Al tape right over the edge of it. While it might not be the prettiest solution, I guess eventually I can paint the exposed edge of the flashing down the road to make it pretty. Thanks!


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## kwikfishron

That lower trim has to come off anyway, I'd still run the flashing all the way down and over the ledger flashing.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

Kwik,

Why would I need/want to remove that kickplate/trim under the door opening? That doesn't make any sense to me.. Why can't I just flash over it? I'll take a closer look at it again and get a closer picture. Removing it seems like I'm just making work for myself, especially if it's in good shape..?


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## kwikfishron

NewHomeDIYGuy said:


> Kwik,
> 
> Why would I need/want to remove that kickplate/trim under the door opening?


How are you planning to get the door out? 

Please don't tell me your installing the new slider without nail flanges.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

Kwik,

I'll get some close up pictures later today and post them. The trim piece/kick board sits flush with the bottom of the door jam, so the door can easily be removed without removing it. The nail flanges are just on the sides and top I thought, which is why I didn't think removing the trim would be necessary..? I'll snap a cpl more pictures and hopefully that'll make things clearer.

Edit: Ah, I realize what you're asking now kwik.. The old door most certainly doesn't have nail flanges on the outside. I realize this is blasphemy to say, but I'm also half wondering if installing the new door with the nail flanges is 100% necessary since the door sits under an overhang. I hate messing w/ siding.. lol


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## CoconutPete

I made my own out of flashing tape or whatever it's called. About 8" wide. Stickiest stuff I've ever worked with.


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## kwikfishron

NewHomeDIYGuy said:


> Edit: Ah, I realize what you're asking now kwik.. The old door most certainly doesn't have nail flanges on the outside. I realize this is blasphemy to say, but I'm also half wondering if installing the new door with the nail flanges is 100% necessary since the door sits under an overhang. I hate messing w/ siding.. lol


I’ve never seen an aluminum slider without flanges on all sides unless someone had cut them off.

I’m sure there are some here that will say the type of install your proposing is fine…I’m not one of them. Doing it that way you’re completely relying on caulking to keep the water out. 

Any external caulking should be looked at as a secondary defense for keeping water away from the frame. Properly installed and flashed external caulking isn’t even necessary to keep the water away from the wood.


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## HomeSealed

The peel and stick tape or bending an aluminum pan work fine when executed properly. I've done both... On the flanges, they are not absolutely necessary to have proper mechanical flashing, but you need access and expertise using a brake so that you can bend metal flashing if you go that route. You can do essentially the same exact thing with brake metal as you can with a nailing fin in terms of proper flashing. Ron is correct though that a seal relying only on caulk is highly undesirable and will fail at some point.


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## joecaption

That piece used under the door looks to thick anyway and needs to come off and be replaced with a thinner piece.
It needs to be 3/4, or even 5/4.
If it sticks out behind the doors threshold it will act as a funnel directing water to the sub flooring.
I use vinyl lumber so it never rots or needs painting.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

Ok, so here are some closer pics of the door/flashing. These are the original doors from I believe '85. Clearly they weren't flashed/well properly to today's standards. You guys really think the bottom piece of wood needs to go? It almost looks as if the edge of the door rests on it.. It's hard to tell by the pictures but basically there's a j flashing next to the brick moulding, and the brick moulding is caulked on both sides (on the side of the door and the j flashing).


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## joecaption

If it was done right and there would have been no need for all those blobs of caulking.
Look at how far out it sits out from the brick moulding, completly wrong. That's going to hold water and let it get soaked into the end grain.
I never use wooden brick moulding anymore. Only vinyl. No more rot at the bottom or painting.

What type of siding it that?
Something looks really off on the left hand side of the door in that inside corner.
Just judging from what little I can see there may also be an issue with that door being out of square. All I can see is how far off the exposure is on what looks like the screen or the door panel on the top left. (may well be just the angle of the picture)


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## HomeSealed

You've really got a mess there, from the siding to the trim to the flashing... If it were me, I'd rip off everything on that wall (door area) and redo it properly. You are fortunate enough that its a pretty small space to have to remove. You are really playing with fire if you don't. The only thing that is probably keeping that leak-free as it is would be the overhang above.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy

That's what I was afraid you guys would say.. *sigh* Basically the top piece of siding overlaps the top horizontal piece of moulding so that water shouldn't hit the moulding from the top, and the moudling is caulked on both sides. The same goes for the sides of the moulding. I've seen a couple doors in the neighborhood that were changed and looks like they just removed the door, and just replaced the moulding and caulked both sides like it is now.. 

The siding is aluminum. 

So question then is how would I go about doing it correctly? How should the moulding be installed in relation to the flashing? Since the moulding sits to the outside of the rough opening, it has to be there, or I'd have to redo all the horizontal siding next to the sliding door as it'd be an inch shot on each side..? I'm definitely lost in terms of what the best way to do it is.. *knock on wood* there doesn't seem to be a problem with water getting into the house as the overhang seems to be working.


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