# Painting kitchen cabinets, Wagner HVLP conversion gun?



## Cobrakillert (Mar 2, 2011)

I'm just about ready to tear into my kitchen for it's makeover. My doors, drawer fronts, drawer boxes and hardware from Barker Door are all here an all I need to do is finalize color/product and the exact method of painting the cabinets.

You can see my original thread on the kitchen HERE

After looking around at inexpensive HVLP systems I came across the Wagner HVLP conversion gun. It seems to get better result than the cheaper HVLP systems (HF, Rockler, etc.) and being that I already have a Craftsman 2HP 33 gal. compressor which puts out 8.6CFM @ 40 PSI it seems like this is a good option and the better way to go. Am I correct that going with the Wagner HVLP conversion gun is the better route vs the inexpensive HVLP systems at the same pricepoint?

If I go with the Wagner, would a pressure pot be needed to spray the cabinet boxes while they are still mounted on the wall?
Any insight on settings for the gun/compressor?

As far as the process...I'll go with the BM Satin Impervo paint, what would be my best choice for a primer? Should I sand between primer and paint? How 'bout between the first and second coats of paint?
What should I do to the darker stained cabinets to prep them before spraying on the primer?

This will be the first time I'll be using a sprayer and I'm just a beginner painter but have no hesitation on taking on larger tasks like this, any insight/instruction would be GREATLY appreciated!


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## Cobrakillert (Mar 2, 2011)

Anyone have any advice for a newbie before I go ahead and order this HVLP conversion gun?


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

test the gun out on a practice piece and play with the settings. Find what works the best. Ive never used the gun you are talking about but I have used the hvlp guns quite a bit with good success. Make sure to use a good primer before you start, No need to sand in between unless there are any defects or if you want it smoother.


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## Cobrakillert (Mar 2, 2011)

Thanks for the reply...

I'll be leaving the cabinets mounted and the doors I'll paint in my garage. As a first time sprayer, will an HVLP gun be easy enough to use or am I better off just going with a brush and roller?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

When in doubt, do not spray! Add in the time for prep and clean up and you basically don't save a whole lot of time. Just my opinion.


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## Ed G (Apr 5, 2011)

As said before, the key here is to practice, practice and practice. Either brush/roll or spraying will work, but you have to have your technique down first. I don't think I would spray oil indoors, even in the garage- the overspray will stick to everything in sight. When I spray, I typically wait for a nice cloudy day (plenty of those here in NE Ohio), spray in the yard and quickly take the pieces into the garage to dry. When you do the doors, paint and dry them horizontally to help the paint level and avoid runs. Good luck!


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## Cobrakillert (Mar 2, 2011)

I'm not really worried about time, I'm more focused on the end result. I want to get the best finish as possible. 

As far as product, how is the BM 'Advance' line? It seems to be an 'oil-based' with soap and water clean-up. What would be the best primer to use? BM 'Advance' primer as well?

Thanks for the tip on spraying the doors horizontally, I had already planned on doing that as well as painting the back of the doors first and then the fronts.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I would think twice about spraying them. And if you must or just really want to do so. Don't buy a Wagner toy. You will be disappointed. Rent decent spray equipment.


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## Cobrakillert (Mar 2, 2011)

sdsester said:


> I would think twice about spraying them. And if you must or just really want to do so. Don't buy a Wagner toy. You will be disappointed. Rent decent spray equipment.


Could you elaborate on why I should think twice about spraying them?
Also, I've read very good reviews on the Wagner HVLP conversion gun, why do you say that I will be disappointed?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Cobrakillert said:


> Could you elaborate on why I should think twice about spraying them?
> Also, I've read very good reviews on the Wagner HVLP conversion gun, why do you say that I will be disappointed?


The Wagner sprayer will probably get you through this project and I suppose a few others but the price point is achieved with a lot of cast (not machined) and plastic parts that can fail. I have known too many people that have had to take a couple back to get one that was working. This was the case for the last client of mine that really, really wanted to own one for reasons I never quite figured out. Garage ornamentation I guess. 

Personal bias I suppose but I would feel more confident with rented professional spray equipment---machined metal parts and all that. Through my career I had so little use for a sprayer that it made no sense to own one. I either rented or more often brought in the sub-contractors with the equipment on larger jobs suited to spraying. Few of mine ever were. 

As for reconsidering spraying? Just remember you are going to have to make several passes to achieve the paint film thickness you want for cabinet doors. I think you might find rolling two coats on to be faster in the long run with the same or better results. And less of a mess from overspray and so forth. 

Just food for thought. It sounds like you are putting the thought and prep into this that your project will turn out well either way.

As for paint? I would use a high acrylic waterbased semi gloss if it were me. Add Floetrol whether spraying, brushing or rolling for a near brushstroke free finish. For primer? Depending on what is on the doors now I guess you could use a high quality bonding latex primer. I would use an alkyd though.


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## kennyb (May 3, 2011)

*To spray or not to spray!*

There is no reason not to use the conversion HVLP gun.That is not on the same level as the other WAGNER consumer items.The conversion gun is probably the best thing on the consumer market from Wagner.I have 20 plus years experence with using most all spray guns.(professional and consumer)The best advice for you is to practice allot and when using HVLPs always remember the less air you use the less overspray you have!You will have to to be closer to the surface and use slower passes with the gun.It is possible to spray with little to NO overspray.When your spray gun is dialed in right it will give you the end result that will amaze you.:thumbsup:


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## jjrbus (Aug 28, 2009)

I have some projects I would like to spray, mostly small, not the whole house, not that it makes any sense time wise, I just want to spray them. I have almost no spray experience.

To rent a quality sprayer as suggested, I would not be able to develop any technique or spend much time practicing. I am not going to rent a quality sprayer to paint a couple cheap lawn chairs just to practice on!

So I started poking around the web and found this Wagner conversion gun. 

*Wagner Power Products 276124 Conversion Gun*




I find no other opinions on it here on the forum since 2011 and am hoping some have bought and tried it and are willing to share their experience with it!
Thanks JIm


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

I have this gun and I like it, Mine is all metal parts, except the check valves which are replaceable, so Im not sure what the guy that knocks them is talking about. I bought mine a long time ago from Gleem, so maybe they have been cheapened up? Who knows. 

I would not spray in the house. I am about to do the exact same project, but I am going to brush the stiles inside, and spray the doors and drawer fronts on a rack which I will build in the garage. Spraying inside a finished house is asking for trouble, and the stiles and sides are not much area. I am going to clean the cabinets with TSP then prime with a good primer. then spray several light coats, probably semi-gloss. I will clean out and wet down the garage floor to help with the dust, which is always a problem when spraying anything.

You don't need a paint pot, the Wagner cup holds plenty for this job.
If you are not experienced with spray, you better practice.

Thats what I am going to do. Not to Hijack, but primer/paint recommendations are welcome by me I have an SW store nearby, and can get any other finish I'm sure.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

This is an old post but let me put my $.02 in Wagner got a pretty bad rep from the old yellow buzz sprayers. And I think some are confusing these with the conversion gun. A lot of painters on this site don't like spraying and I can understand that. After years of brush and roller the first time I sprayed it was an interior and it looked like the fog had rolled in. When I came outside you could see around my eyes where my glasses were because that was about the only part that wasn't painted. I HATED IT. I put the sprayer in the garage for almost 2 years then I hired a guy and we were doing a large job and he said we needed a sprayer I told him I had one. Then when he finally settled down I found out he had experience with a sprayer. After a few lessons the sprayer is now a large part of my paint arsenal.


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## jjrbus (Aug 28, 2009)

I have not used an airless sprayer in decades, but cannot understand why many would not use them?

In the intervening years I have used a cheapy Wagner, real piece of c--P

I have read many good things on this conversion and may just give it a try. Nothing beats a spray finish on some things!

I have yet to see an amateur cabinet or furniture paint job that looks good! Even mine!
JIm


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

The thing about spraying isn't the sprayer equip. It's the skills of the person doing it.
It's the set up, masking, prep etc. Then the actual skills involved with spray technique.
People aren't born with these skills. They must be learned.
you can do it the hard way , or you can have someone show you.


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## jjrbus (Aug 28, 2009)

I said used a cheepy Wagner, should have been tried to use! Good only for spraying pesticides.

Finding someone that knows how to use a sprayer and is willing to spend the time with you is not easy.
JIm


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I agree that nothing compares with the spray finish. I also agree practice is the answer. You can go to someplace like Habitait and get some doors really cheap or a furniture store and get some large boxes. Then spend some time using different pressure settings, You can also buy some cheap leftover paints and try different thinning. This will also let you get used to the feel of the gun. Go on you tube watch some different videos on spraying with a conversion gun.


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## wetech (Aug 4, 2012)

I bought this gun last summer, and I love it. I've painted about a dozen 6-panel / french doors with it, along with all the trim on the first floor of my house. I've been using INSL-X CabinetCoat thinned with 2oz water and 2oz floetrol per quart. Next project is going to be the kitchen cabinets.


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## sinistersix (Mar 26, 2013)

*Decided to paint kitchen cabinets...brush or spray gun?*

After looking into new doors and other methods, I think I have decided to paint my kitchen. I am going to go for antique white but am a bit wary because my current cabinets are a golden oak with grains and knots and I want the new look to be a flat antique white. 

Is there any type of primer that will get rid of the grains and knots?

Best to spray or paint this type of application? I dont want people to walk in and be able to tell they have been painted....


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

NO paint will make the physical texture go away. Be clear on that before you start.
I like the look personally of painted oak with it's deep texture, but it looks like painted oak, not Formica,

And a flat finish is not good for cabs- dirt sponge..


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## sinistersix (Mar 26, 2013)

Brushjockey said:


> NO paint will make the physical texture go away. Be clear on that before you start.
> I like the look personally of painted oak with it's deep texture, but it looks like painted oak, not Formica,
> 
> And a flat finish is not good for cabs- dirt sponge..


So regardless of if you use a brush or paint gun, you will still see knots and grains?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Paint will follow the contour of whatever it is on. 
There is a very difficult method to fill the grain, but I won't even go there..


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## sinistersix (Mar 26, 2013)

Brushjockey said:


> Paint will follow the contour of whatever it is on.
> There is a very difficult method to fill the grain, but I won't even go there..


Not sure how antique white would look with wood grain and knots in it...


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

If you get full coverage- all we are talking about is the physical texture- color really is just a choice- Makes no difference in how it wears. 
Now sheen ( flat, semi etc) makes a diff in durability and clean ability, as does quality of paint.


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