# best way to finish a bar top?



## mattsffrd (Jan 15, 2014)

I'm putting this here because I wasn't really sure where else to put this thread (maybe we need a "man cave" page?) so I apologize if it should be somewhere else.

I'm finishing off my basement and I'm working on my bar top. 

My father had some old 2" thick slabs of cherry so i used those for the top. They were VERY twisted and uneven but i have them pretty level using a lot of patience, a hand power planer, and a palm sander. My question is about finishing the top...I've seen a lot of people that use a bunch of coats of spar varnish so I might use that, and I've also seen people that use floor poly because of it's durability.

I don't really want to use the "pour on" bar top stuff because it will drip off the edge and I've heard about it developing spider cracks and whatnot. Any tips on what's best to use for a finish?


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I prefer the ruggedness of oil based poly---spar varnish is not needed--that is used for exterior applications--the stretchy nature of that varnish makes it rather soft for a bar top---

Flooring grade,oil based poly would be a good choice--that is a very good product.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> I prefer the ruggedness of oil based poly---spar varnish is not needed--that is used for exterior applications--the stretchy nature of that varnish makes it rather soft for a bar top---
> 
> Flooring grade,oil based poly would be a good choice--that is a very good product.


I'm with Mike..... The amber affect of oil poly makes it deep/older/substantial look bar top.... (unless your going for a modern techy look.)

Never thought of using a floor poly.... good idea.... although I've got a 20 year old bar rail with 7-8 coats of just a reg poly on it, that still looks great/new..... although I don't recall anyone dancing on it...:wink::whistling2:


----------



## mattsffrd (Jan 15, 2014)

LOL well with my crowd it might get danced on...any particular oil poly you would recommend? Will the oil poly affect the natural color of the cherry? i would like to original color to show through for obvious reasons.


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The Oil Poly will actually help the wood. Just make sure that between coats. You sand the top with a fine grain sandpaper. Then use tacky clothe to remove all sawdust.

Some people have gone as far as 10 coats on wood projects. Just do not do it on a floor, since it makes it very slick.

I would before you do any poly. Is do the Quarter trick. If it slides down the wood without jumping. You know you have a good level top.


----------



## mattsffrd (Jan 15, 2014)

Looks like i can pick this oil based minwax up at home depot, maybe i'll go with this

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Minwax-1-gal-Gloss-High-Build-Polyurethane-71090/100556459#specifications


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I would stay away from Minwax.Have had some good expeience with it and some bad to.The bad does not make up for the good when finishing.I would also stay away from HD for finishes.Never know how long it's been sitting.
I always go to a paint supplier for finishes if I have a choice.Better quality products and fresher.


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

mako1 said:


> I would stay away from Minwax.Have had some good expeience with it and some bad to.The bad does not make up for the good when finishing.I would also stay away from HD for finishes.Never know how long it's been sitting.
> 
> I always go to a paint supplier for finishes if I have a choice.Better quality products and fresher.


Minwax is only bad if left sitting on the shelf for a long time, or not mixed properly before using.

As for Home Depot for stuff. Sometimes for some people. That is the only major player in town, when it comes to big box hardware stores.


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

mattsffrd said:


> I don't really want to use the "pour on" bar top stuff because it will drip off the edge and I've heard about it developing spider cracks and whatnot. Any tips on what's best to use for a finish?


Drip off the edges? Yes it does that and requires a little tlc to deal with it. I've poured many tops and never had a problem with "spider cracks" or "whatnot" at least with the product I've used. 

It would take 50+ coats of poly to achieve the finish that you can get in one pour. 

Here's a top I poured a few years ago that receives heavy use and abuse, the surface still looks like glass. This pic is only a few months old.


----------



## mattsffrd (Jan 15, 2014)

kwikfishron said:


> Drip off the edges? Yes it does that and requires a little tlc to deal with it. I've poured many tops and never had a problem with "spider cracks" or "whatnot" at least with the product I've used.
> 
> It would take 50+ coats of poly to achieve the finish that you can get in one pour.
> 
> Here's a top I poured 3-4 years ago that receives heavy use and abuse, the surface still looks like glass. This pic is only a few months old.


that looks great...how did you get the edges to look that good? do you just brush it as it drips off the edges? what brand did you use? any other tips?


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

"Envirotex Lite" is the product and yes brushing of the dripping off the edge is key and tedious (foam brush). Depending on temp and humidity it's workable for a hour or so. 

The best tip I can give is to follow the manufactures specs to the letter. Some of the different wood species require additional steps. The slab in the pic is Douglas Fir and is quite forgiving, WR Ceder and Red Oak are a challenge (bubbles in the finish) but come out fine after learning the curve. I've never played with this stuff on cherry.


----------



## John in NC (Aug 10, 2012)

I would use oil based poly as well. 

There might be a product like some sort of wood conditioner or toner that really makes the grain pop under the poly application. Might be worth some extra steps to make the wood really 'shimmer' for lack of a better term.

What I do is put a few coats of full strength poly on, sanding with fine paper between coats/ dust and tack cloth, then move to a wipe on poly, thinner and thinner as more coats go on. Again with light sandings between coats, very light in the end. Use a sanding block. 

Wipe on poly can be made with the same oil based poly by thinning it with mineral spirits.
The last one or two coats of wipe on poly make the poly surface flat, effectively filling in any tiny ridges and sanding scratches. I skipped sanding between the last 2 coats, just super light coats of wipe on poly.
I've read that you can cut and buff the finish to a glass flat finish, but I didn't get crazy. Think cut/ buff on a high end automotive paintjob.

This was an old time dresser painted blue. Sanded the top, removed the 2nd level drawers/ guides and made shelves, paint, stain, and poly- 
media stand!

I used wood conditioner, then stain, then oil based poly, then thinned down wipe on oil based poly.


----------

