# Valley flashing, how wide should I go?



## johnk (May 1, 2007)

Wider the better,and two lare of #15 felt and 1 layer of #30 are equal.I would just use the #30.Depending on your climate,you may want to use Ice and water shield.You would then have a bullet proof valley.:thumbsup:


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Sounds like a closed valley. Narrower is better. Sorry John.
You aren't supposed to nail in the metal, even to hold it in place. 24" metal means you would be stopping the nails 12" from center on each side. Therefore, 24" to 33" of your shingles would be un-nailed.
14" is the standard for valley metal.

'When the metal is pinned by nails, it oilcans and tears itself apart. All that movement isn't good for the shingles.'


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## johnk (May 1, 2007)

tinner666 said:


> Sounds like a closed valley. Narrower is better. Sorry John.
> You aren't supposed to nail in the metal, even to hold it in place. 24" metal means you would be stopping the nails 12" from center on each side. Therefore, 24" to 33" of your shingles would be un-nailed.
> 14" is the standard for valley metal.
> 
> 'When the metal is pinned by nails, it oilcans and tears itself apart. All that movement isn't good for the shingles.'


I missed the overlap valley part,I guess when I read 40yr,I just figured open.:huh:


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## KarlJay (Dec 9, 2009)

That actually works better for me as the 24" was a special order product. So if I don't nail the flashing, I use the edge clips or roofing cement to hold it down right?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Don't feel too bad. I miss many things too.  
Just cleat it, edge clip in place. No cement. Cement has no place on ashingle roof, other than the top edge of counter-flashing. AND, under bend the metal and pust it into place. Over bending causes it to hump up.

My web site has tutorials on cap, chimneys, valleys. vents, etc.


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