# sheetrock over sheetrock add insualtion?



## monkeywrench (Nov 24, 2008)

My existing walls in me bedroom are freezing, even with the heat pumping. the sheetrock was installed on 3/4" wood, nailed to the cyndeblock. There is no insulation either. I was thinking a quick fix would be just to put 5/8" rock right over the old sheetrock. Do you guys think this would help?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Drywall itself would not have enough insulating ability to make much if any difference adding another layer. You can see how little one layer does. Thickness isn't much of a factor either (1/2" or 5/8"). To do the job properly, the walls need to be framed with a 2"x4" wall inside the block wall, R-13 insulation installed, then drywall......unfortunately it's not a "quick fix".


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Agreed, the addition of a layer of sheetrock would be a waste of time.


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## monkeywrench (Nov 24, 2008)

thanks for the advice. This room is already thin as can be. i would hate to add 2x4's then rock. what do you think if i used 2x3's? how do you guys feel about aluminum studs?


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Well, if you have no insulation, any insulation you add will be a benefit. Personally, I'd rather lose two more inches of room then sacrifice the insulative value of the thicker wall. You're spending some pretty good money to do it...Might as well maximize the benefit.

As for studs...I'm sure you mean steel studs, not aluminum. Personally, I wouldn't do it. They're not all that DIYer friendly and they require a special metal chopsaw and some talent with tin snips and screwguns.

Don't forget that you'll have to cut all your electric boxes and wires loose and move them forward to the face of the new wall. No choice on that if you want to do it right/legal. Can't conceal the existing boxes in the wall. Otherwise you'll have a major mess at time of resale. You'll also have to make jamb extensions for the windows and doors.


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## Tracymc (Nov 23, 2008)

*Add insulation!!!!*

As far as insulating absolutely. And steel studs absolutely, a couple of different ways you can do it and save space in the room. One, 1 5/8" stud and track 20ga. pulled out to 2 1/2" to take out any wave in the wall, and friction fit 2" rigid polyiso foam will give you R-14 not up to code quite at least not in my area but better than nothing. Two, Find your studs and mark them out pick up 2" z furring run it horizontal and friction fit 2" poly iso the same way. As far as the electrical goes you cant bury boxes but you can terminate the old boxes find the last one pull it, move it back a stud bay to get the length wire u need without doing anything shady and re run the terminated boxes out on the new wall, with no J boxes or anything buried.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Tracy

As far as the B.S. about not being user friendly, wrongo a 7 1/4" abrasive blade in a skilsaw, ear plugs, and safety glasses plus a good set of snips, I dare you to say its difficult to use. Show me who can cut 10 wood studs at once to the same length on a jobsite. 2x faster and 10x straighter, no crown, twist, bow, just flat as can be 4 ever.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Tracymc said:


> As far as the B.S. about not being user friendly, wrongo...


Thanks for setting me straight Tracymc...Welcome to DIY Chatroom.:whistling2:


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

I agree regarding the point that KCT made, some aspects of using steel framing, are not user friendly. 

However, building a simple wall out, or simple framing, can be easy with steel. 

As far as cutting the steel, the average first timer, should stick to cutting with tin snips, or aviation snips, on smaller projects. 

We generally go to the chop saw and abrasive blade for large scale projects.

Remove the S/R and strapping. For insulation, as stated, on concrete, use a proper rigid foam board, that will match the thickness of the studs you use, whether steel, or wood.

If you have trouble locating the steel framing and track that you desire, you may also check at a building supply house. Also, Dry-wall material supply houses generally carry a large assortment of steel as well.
BTW - 25g steel should suffice.


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## Tracymc (Nov 23, 2008)

KCT, I am sorry if I sounded like a prick prior, not my intention @ all. I just get a little worked up on occasion, I had the same thoughts regarding steel when I first got into it. I agree @ times it is a little harder to deal with but overall a very good system 4 a homeowner DIY'er. I am probably one of the few remodeling contractors in my area that will allow a HO to be pro active in the buiding process, as far as helping when they are supervised if they desire it gives them a sense of accomplishment and pride in their project. Over the years I have noticed HO's pick up on the steel framing 2x as fast. I dont tie steel framing into existing wood framing on additions and such I stick to wood, but a basement, or an overbuild like spoken about is a great application. I know other contractors who read this will think I am crazy regarding the HO help, but it prevents the unwanted help and rework when the HO is working on his or her project when I am not onsite (+ it only goes on about 5% of the time and only lasts about a day or two). AtlanticWB, I agree on the Chopsaw, but most wont have one or access to, snips will work great too!!! I would also stick to 20G if it is 1 5/8" Stud unless they clip back to existing framing, dont have a desire for a flexi wall.:thumbsup:
Tracy


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## monkeywrench (Nov 24, 2008)

Thanks everone! The advice really helped. i'm going to price the job out and i will let you all know how it turned out.


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## monkeywrench (Nov 24, 2008)

thanks for the advice, i will let you all know how it worked out.


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## stubborn1 (Oct 24, 2008)

If you are going to install metal studs, don't forget to throw in some wood backing in between the studs if you are installing wood base. It will make your life a lot easier when it comes time to finishing the room.


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

I would strip the wall and use styrofoam or rigid board, 1" with a locking overlap. Cover the complete wall, no studs. Then screw 1x2's at proper spacing for your sheet rock. You need plastic "Dubels" for screws in the cinder block. I forget the name in english for these things. Fill in between the strips with more foam board or fiberglass. Then sheetrock. My thinking is the first layer will give you a complete sealed, gapless structure. Very easy to put up, liquid nails or similar. Just another perspective. Dorf Dude


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Tracymc said:


> KCT, I am sorry if I sounded like a prick prior, not my intention @ all.


Not a problem. Good explanation of how you incorporate steel into your projects, and I like the idea of keeping the HO involved as well. I'm quick (probably too quick) to discourage people from using steel because I've seen dozens of DIYers' projects at inspection time...I ask them how they're going to hang sinks, towel bars, shelves, base, crown, and door casing, and they give me an astounded look...People that don't know the in's and out's of steel stud work can build themselves into a pickle.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

stubborn1 said:


> If you are going to install metal studs, don't forget to throw in some wood backing in between the studs if you are installing wood base. It will make your life a lot easier when it comes time to finishing the room.


It's actually not always necessary, as you can use trim head screws (industry practice for steel framing and wood baseboard), or even construction adhesive...or both.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

If you use 25ga. metal, a 15ga. trim nailer will shoot through the studs. Once everything is caulked, it won't come down. (Use a little glue to be sure, if you like, as Atlantic said.) If you go to 20ga. the trim screws will likely be necessary. They can be a pain....


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## Orangeguy (Nov 30, 2008)

monkeywrench said:


> My existing walls in me bedroom are freezing, even with the heat pumping. the sheetrock was installed on 3/4" wood, nailed to the cyndeblock. There is no insulation either. I was thinking a quick fix would be just to put 5/8" rock right over the old sheetrock. Do you guys think this would help?


I didn't read all other posts but I would NOT put foam over the drywall.Foam is a vapour barrier and will trap mosture in that old drywall!the only real way to fix it is rip it down to block and use steel stud (2x4) then insulate with fiberglass pink or roxul and use super six barrier .Then re-drywall.remember that you can heat it easy if you insulate and isolate!!!


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

*Read the posts*



Orangeguy said:


> I didn't read all other posts but I would NOT put foam over the drywall.Foam is a vapour barrier and will trap mosture in that old drywall!the only real way to fix it is rip it down to block and use steel stud (2x4) then insulate with fiberglass pink or roxul and use super six barrier .Then re-drywall.remember that you can heat it easy if you insulate and isolate!!!


Nobody said to put foam directly over the drywall. What I said was to strip it down, put up foam on the cinder block. That way it is a vapor barrier. :yes: Dorf Dude


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## Orangeguy (Nov 30, 2008)

shumakerscott said:


> Nobody said to put foam directly over the drywall. What I said was to strip it down, put up foam on the cinder block. That way it is a vapor barrier. :yes: Dorf Dude


like i said I didn't read all of the relpies.fair enough!


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