# Which primer for SW Pro Classic enamel waterborne?



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

I would go with the oil:yes:


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Hey Noone, I think I would agree with Chrisn. BIN is an excellent primer and choice for that project, as long as it's interior. I've used it on occassion for full prime systems. However, BIN is not the best choice if you don't have experience brushing it or your brush skills are not first rate. (Did you pick up on that self pat on the back. lol). You can get into trouble as fast as it sets up, which is about 20 seconds, and you could end up leaving some very unsightly brush mishaps on your new piece. Oil will be more forgiving and user friendly. Cabinetry is furniture grade finishing, so you need it as flaw free as possible. I'm not familiar with Pro Block, but I know that BIN is a great sealer as far as enamel holdout. Just be sure that ProBlock is a primer/sealer, rather than just a primer. Enamel holdout means the primer will not absorb the sheen out of your finish, leaving you with the full sheen than the finish is capable of providing. It's probably something you would barely notice unless you had two samples, one with, one without, in front of you to see the difference. Don't forget to do a thorough sanding between prime and first coat of finish, being careful to keep the primer intact on the edges. An extremely important but often neglected/underperformed step in a furniture grade finish.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Thanks. 

I actually do have experience with BIN. Jsheridan, I believe you recommended it with my last project that involved painting over a lot of varnished wood trim. It worked out great, by the way. :thumbsup:

Of course painting trim with SuperPaint is a whole different story than painting enamel. Thanks to your tips, I have learned A LOT about painting and consider myself a very good painter these days. 

Last night, I tested using a Harbor Freight 1 stage turbine HVLP with the Pro Classic waterborne and found that I had to thin it with Floetrol and water way too much to get it to spray out half decent. Even then, it didn't mist well, you could see splatters that eventually laid flat, but the color ended up being dull. So I'm thinking I'm going to return it now and paint these by hand since the brushed on test area of Pro Classic I tried laid down perfectly flat! I was pretty amazed. 

I may try a conversion HVLP gun in the future on a bigger project as I heard these do handle acrylic latex enamel pretty well without much thinning needed. 

Anyhow-
Should I roll and back brush the oil primer? What's the clean up process? I now have a respirator to use.......


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

imho s/w pro block oil drys to fast and does not level its hard to work with. i cant say for sure what i would use wit out seeing the wood but i think pro block waterbase sealing and bonding primer . or zinnzer oil base cover stain. p/s ask s/w to sell you the new reformulated pro classic its much improved. also be careful on second coat as it still likes to sag on you.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Noone, I think I remember you were psyching up to BIN the 15 light doors. Did I not tease you calling you grasshopper and about finding your zen? Good to hear it worked out well. 
You have two choices here, depending on the size of your cabinets. What type of finish do you want, the handbrushed look or the uniform factory finish look, it's a matter of preference. In older homes I do a handbrush look. In newer more contemporary homes/decors, I'll tend to the factory finish look, depending of course on what the customer prefers if they have a preference, which they usually aren't even aware of. 
With large flat surfaces and a fast setting waterborne enamel you may have a tough time getting it blemish free with a brush, a somewhat non-issue with a roller finish (1/4 or 3/16's better yet). Juice it up and work fast. If you choose the rolled finished look, then don't lay off the primer with the brush, leave the roll. If you're going to do handbrush then definitely lay off the primer. You don't want a texture inconsistency between coats. Nothing looks worse than a flush door that's been both rolled and brushed in its lifetime. I have my own nightmare with this ahead of me. I have about twenty some flush doors coming up that are now brushed, and the enamel I'm using for the job, (Coronado Rustcat Semi I'm trying at urging of the paint store on a medium to lower budget job) doesn't seem like it's going to give me enough working time to brush out, even roll and lay off, without dragging. Not looking forward to it, but I have something I'm planning to try.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Help!

I just finished SPRAYING some SW Multi Purpose oil primer and the Harbor Freight HVLP turbine made a total orange peel mess on these cabs. Please tell me I can sand this out. 

I had started hand brushing the oil primer on with a 2" nylon Purdy sash. It was going pretty well, but it felt too slow. So I pulled out the HVLP from the trunk of my car that I had all packed up and ready to return to Harbor Freight. What a mistake. 

I have been using the 2.0 tip. I also have a 1.5 and 1.8 tip I could use.

I want a factory looking finish on these flush inset door cabinets I made. I won't settle for anything else!

Please direct me all ye Masters of Paint.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

noone said:


> Help!
> 
> I just finished SPRAYING some SW Multi Purpose oil primer and the Harbor Freight HVLP turbine made a total orange peel mess on these cabs. Please tell me I can sand this out.
> 
> ...


Then you are going to have to take them to someplace like an auto body shop where professional painters work.


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