# Never disconnected coil spring before.



## u2slow (Feb 9, 2012)

I can't speak for that Ford ranger, but many automotive springs are 'unloaded' if the suspension is allowed to go to full droop. You may have to disconnect the shock.

When you get into strut-packaged springs, then you really need a spring compressor.

This forum has been an Explorer/Ranger stronghold for at least 20 years:




__





The Ranger Station


The Ranger Station Forums - Your Ultimate Ford Ranger Resource Since 1999




www.therangerstation.com


----------



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I have only done this once... with a 1994 Camaro. I used a Harbor Freight spring compressor and it worked OK. Not really all that scary... or maybe I was just too stupid to be scared?


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I watched a couple instructional videos this afternoon. I'm not absolutely certain. But I might not need to disconnect
the coil spring and shock absorber.

I watched a guy replace the radius arm insulator on a 95' Ranger. All he did was unbolt and pull off the bracket and crossmember and then the end of the radius arm with bushing was exposed. I crawled under my truck and it looks like the same setup. But it's still good now that I have a good idea of how to use the spring compressor just in case.

What is the easiest way to get undercoating off the bolt heads? (my fault)


----------



## Gottawireitup (Dec 15, 2018)

To do this properly. You need to pull the strut assembly out of the car. You then need the tool that compresses the springs before undoing this screw that releases the springs. 

If you were a mechanic and had done this job a million times maybe you could use an impact wrench and get ready to get out of the way as it pops and goes flying. This is not the proper way. 

Personally. I didn’t even want to use the coil compressor as a diy mechanic. I figured there was potential to loose a finger or hand. 

I would say if you want to do it yourself take the assembly out but all the parts and take it to a mechanic to do that part. 

Prolly 1/2 hour labour. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Found this video where the guy didn't remove the spring.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Thanks Huesmann. I watched that video twice already. So from watching additional videos and reading first hand accounts from people with similar make/model, I should not have to remove the coil spring. The bracket and bolt positions in the video are the same as my make/model.

So it should go something like this: jackstands under front frame.......jack up front axle.......remove shock absorber.....unbolt and pull bracket/crossmember rearward. That will leave insulator end of radius arm exposed.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

The guy in the video did keep a jack under the hub where the coil spring is.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I was uncertain of the placement of the jack in the video. It looked like he placed it directly under the spring. But it was kind of hard to see in the video.


----------



## LawrenceS (Oct 21, 2020)

Gottawireitup said:


> To do this properly. You need to pull the strut assembly out of the car. You then need the tool that compresses the springs before undoing this screw that releases the springs.
> 
> If you were a mechanic and had done this job a million times maybe you could use an impact wrench and get ready to get out of the way as it pops and goes flying. This is not the proper way.
> 
> ...


That would be for a macpherson strut, this is not a macpherson strut. No mechanics gun a strut nut off and let it fly, because it's counter productive as you still have to compress the spring to get it back together. The only time I've ever done something like that was on a tacoma I think it was(it was 10 years ago, my memory is a little fuzzy), because once i removed the nut and slowly decompressed the spring the piston of the strut was seized to the upper mount and I either had to recompress the spring and try an tap the mount with a hammer which seemed less safe then what I ended up doing which was dropping it on the ground to break it free and let the spring push the mount off.



Rangerxlt said:


> I was uncertain of the placement of the jack in the video. It looked like he placed it directly under the spring. But it was kind of hard to see in the video.


The jack seems like it's just to compress the spring slightly to get the rear cross member to line back up, so under the spring seat would probably be the best location so the spring compresses evenly and lets you line everything back up. As for the undercoating, a wirebrush or a scotch bright pad might work, maybe a putty knife to try and scrape it off if it's really on there. Brake or carb clean might make it softer and easier to get off.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. Thanks. I'm waiting on the parts to arrive. Should be today or tomorrow.

I already pre-treated the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster.


----------



## peequi (May 1, 2011)

If you ever happen to remove springs, just be careful, go slow, don't be distracted. It is dangerous but so is jacking up a car, but people do it everyday.

a suspension or tire shop would probably remove springs if you bring in the whole struct assembly for a small fee. They have machines that do it quick and safely.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I did not do this repair yet. It actually might be easier to do the coil spring removal method. I've heard reports of the bracket crossmember bolts being stubborn to remove.

I have both an old version and a revised version of the Chilton manual for my truck. There is no mention of using a coil compressor. It looks like it's saying that a floor jack is used to compress and decompress the spring while the front frame is on jack stands. Then you can use a pry bar to remove the unbolted spring.

(I only have one vehicle. That's why my repair jobs need to be planned in advance)


----------



## LawrenceS (Oct 21, 2020)

peequi said:


> If you ever happen to remove springs, just be careful, go slow, don't be distracted. It is dangerous but so is jacking up a car, but people do it everyday.
> 
> a suspension or tire shop would probably remove springs if you bring in the whole struct assembly for a small fee. They have machines that do it quick and safely.


It's not a macpherson strut. It's a dual I beam suspension where the spring goes between the frame and an I beam and the shock is separate.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Thanks. I have not done this repair yet. I had to deal with a few electrical repairs on my truck first.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I got that radius arm insulator replaced yesterday. Just as planned, I removed the bracket cross member and shock absorber. And I left the coil spring in place. Man, am I glad I purchased a powerful electric impact wrench a couple months ago. I'm not sure I could have completed this job without it.

I saved this discussion because I need to know how to disconnect a coil spring.


----------



## waltermitty (Mar 24, 2014)

congratulations. it can be a bit scary and unsafe if you don't have the proper tools. I have separate shocks
and springs on a Mercedes E320. the first time I did this (replaced shocks and springs) I read and watched
videos for a couple weeks. then, when I finally got to the chore, I wore a motorcycle helmet and welder gloves.
sounds silly but I wasn't about to risk injury without some safety redundancies. 

coil spring decompression technique varies depending on the car's suspension design so (as you found) it
does not lend itself to simple, lazy internet responses.


----------



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I think your idea of wearing the motorcycle helmet is smart.


----------

