# Wood Paneling on Ceiling



## garlicbreath (Jun 25, 2012)

When I demo'd my house I gave all my t&g knotty pine to a friend. He then pit it on his ceiling and he boxed a beam with it. It looks great. Did he go over drywall? Not sure. 
That would be up to you whether to go over or tear out and how deep you want to go down the rabbit hole. 

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## eagle3ye (Jun 3, 2014)

garlicbreath said:


> That would be up to you whether to go over or tear out and how deep you want to go down the rabbit hole.


Lol my thoughts exactly. The room is pretty big (275 sq ft) and there's only two spot lights at the far end of the room over the fireplace. This meant using lots of floor lamps than never seemed to get the room bright enough. I'm planning on replacing those two spot lights with some recessed can lights and possibly two ceiling fans on opposite sides of the room. I'll also be adding speaker wire, new ceiling outlets (for a mounted projector), and some HDMI ports. As you can see, there will already be some drywall demo involved here, but I'd like to keep it under control and isolated if possible.

I'm actually planning on boxing with crossbeams as well. The wood paneling in the room is painted black, so I'm going to go with the same color on the beams. Should look sharp. :thumbsup:


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

eagle3ye said:


> Hello,
> 
> I want to replace a textured drywall ceiling in my den with some kind of wood paneling. I've found a lot of different products that appear would work pretty well. I'm leaning towards a stainable tongue and groove panel (8" x 12'). Does anyone know if this would work well? Is there something else that might work better?
> 
> ...


 Personally I would run 1x4"s perpendicular to the direction you want the ceiling to go, over the existing and go.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

eagle3ye said:


> there's only two spot lights at the far end of the room over the fireplace. This meant using lots of floor lamps than* never seemed to get the room bright enough.*



I can't imagine why that would be !!!
Black walls is always a good idea...in a morgue or the Bat Cave!

I doubt that adding more can lights will change anything, especially if faux-beams are also to be added.

Any-hoo...Take a look at a tongue and groove product known as *"car-siding"*, you might like it. I think it also comes with a lap-feature. The name comes from the product being used on railroad cars years ago.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

To hang paneling on the ceiling you need to build framing up there so it can be supported every 16.5 " , which just covers up ypur old stuff well. And will give you ample opportunity to run wiring for new lighting, sound system, etc. 

ED


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## eagle3ye (Jun 3, 2014)

Bud Cline said:


> I can't imagine why that would be !!!
> Black walls is always a good idea...in a morgue or the Bat Cave!
> 
> I doubt that adding more can lights will change anything, especially if faux-beams are also to be added.
> ...


Lol, the paneling is newly installed - it only covers the bottom third of the wall. ;-)



de-nagorg said:


> To hang paneling on the ceiling you need to build framing up there so it can be supported every 16.5 " , which just covers up ypur old stuff well. And will give you ample opportunity to run wiring for new lighting, sound system, etc.
> 
> ED


How would you suggest I go about building the frame? Should I screw in 1x4's every 16.5" perpendicular to the joists as suggested by Robpo? Also, would 2" finish nails be sufficient to hold the paneling to the frame?

Thanks a lot.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

eagle3ye said:


> would 2" finish nails be sufficient to hold* the paneling* to the frame?
> 
> Thanks a lot.


You keep referring to this ceiling product as "*paneling*".

Are you in fact using "paneling" such as paneling that comes in 4'X8' sheets? If so, you should have cross-overs (to suite your layout) in addition to your joist-matches.


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

I think screws would be better especially if planking is heavy.2 1/4" or 2 1/2" better. Yes if planking is parallel to joists every 16" ,19.2" or 2' what ever yours run.


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## eagle3ye (Jun 3, 2014)

Bud Cline said:


> You keep referring to this ceiling product as "*paneling*".
> 
> Are you in fact using "paneling" such as paneling that comes in 4'X8' sheets? If so, you should have cross-overs (to suite your layout) in addition to your joist-matches.


Honestly, I haven't made up my mind yet on the 4'x8' paneling sheets or narrower 4"-8"x8'-12' tongue and groove panels. That was the second part of my original question actually. What would be appropriate for ceilings?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

1X material will give you barely enough room to install wiring for lights, I might use 2X material instead, depending on how many lights I would want to install. And the sizes of the junction boxes I want to use. 

Screwing the boards to the ceiling is good if you can hit every joist. Then stagger your 8" x 12' paneling so that you do not have any side by side butt joints. 

Or if you get side by side butt joints cover them with a trim piece. As they are UGLY most of the time. 

ED


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

eagle3ye said:


> Honestly, I haven't made up my mind yet on the 4'x8' paneling sheets or narrower 4"-8"x8'-12' tongue and groove panels. That was the second part of my original question actually. What would be appropriate for ceilings?










I used 1x6"x12' with 2x4"perpindicular to trusses, two 3 inch common/sinkers every 2 feet. I random staggered all seems.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Check your local code---here we must have drywall behind wood paneling or car siding on ceilings--as a fire stop.


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

oh'mike said:


> Check your local code---here we must have drywall behind wood paneling or car siding on ceilings--as a fire stop.


car siding is my ceiling. That is all I can get where I live. I had to put a "foil on one side paper on other" up first.


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## eagle3ye (Jun 3, 2014)

Robpo said:


> View attachment 85888
> 
> I used 1x6"x12' with 2x4"perpindicular to trusses, two 3 inch common/sinkers every 2 feet. I random staggered all seems.


That looks gorgeous. I've been leaning toward going with the exact same thing. I also found another set of unfinished panels that would cost about $100 less than the tongue and groove I was looking at.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_409414-1487...rentURL=?Ntt=paneling&facetInfo=#BVRRWidgetID

I'm guessing the big disadvantage of not having the tongue and groove is gaps appearing from expansion and contraction. How worried should I be about this?


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## garlicbreath (Jun 25, 2012)

Where are you located? Reason I ask is that you may have better sources available. Better than lowes and hd.

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## eagle3ye (Jun 3, 2014)

garlicbreath said:


> Where are you located? Reason I ask is that you may have better sources available. Better than lowes and hd.
> 
> Sent from my Motorola MicroTAC 9800X


I'm in northern Ohio. I'm honestly not too well versed with anywhere around here outside the big boxes.

How about using unfinished hardwood flooring? Any disadvantages there?


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## garlicbreath (Jun 25, 2012)

http://woodfinder.com
so so search engine.

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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

eagle3ye said:


> That looks gorgeous. I've been leaning toward going with the exact same thing. I also found another set of unfinished panels that would cost about $100 less than the tongue and groove I was looking at.
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_409414-1487...rentURL=?Ntt=paneling&facetInfo=#BVRRWidgetID
> 
> I'm guessing the big disadvantage of not having the tongue and groove is gaps appearing from expansion and contraction. How worried should I be about this?


I think the problem with that is no tongue and groove on ends. It would be ok if the room was 8' wide or you had a beam or something at 8'. If you could break the room into 4 or 8' sections it would be ok.


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