# Siding Not Meeting Poured Concrete Foundation



## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

So my siding on one of my walls does not run flush with the concrete foundation, so there is a metal flashing that runs along the bottom of the siding.

What is a good way to block off where the metal flashing meets the concrete foundation? 

My main concern is mice getting into the house through there. I thought i could hear a mouse the other day in this area. It was hard to tell if it was coming in side the over hang or could have been in the eves. I live in the so there are all sorts of rodents mice, chipmunks, little red squirrels, larger black squirrels. I do catch the occasional mouse in the basement. I caught 2 a month or so ago have a few traps set with peanut butter and nothing so far.

I believe there is enough space between the metal flashing and concrete that a mouse could get in that area. I assume once it gets into that area it gotta have pretty much an easy path up to the attic.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

What type of siding.?


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

ron45 said:


> What type of siding.?


vinyl siding.


Something like this. Its only about 1 - 2 inches of flashing. My picture makes it look like its off by a lot. When I try and google images i generally see the opposite where the siding started in from the foundation.


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

While searching for images I found this
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/exterior-paneling-all-exterior-sidings/533761-how-seal-off-vinyl-siding-overhang.html#b

and this image:









I assume mine would look something like that if the metal flashing was not there.

Sounds like they are saying that is probably not where the mice would be getting in.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Take a picture and post it here.

Is there a window involved like the one in the picture.?


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

ron45 said:


> Take a picture and post it here.
> 
> Is there a window involved like the one in the picture.?


The window is completely surrounded by concrete, so not involved.
I'll take a pic tonight.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

squirrels can climb rough metal pole, so I assume mice can climb up the rough surface of a wall. I think the metal flashing is simplest and the best idea. You have to make sure the drainage is not blocked off. Vinyl is the most leaky siding. It is made for leaking, esp through the channels around the windows. You don't want that water going back into the rim and the sills.
Surest (relatively) would be remove the bottom course, metal flash (adapted z-flashing), and reside. Making sure the house wrap goes over the metal flashing.
As for the mice, you have to check every inch. Don't assume and if you see a knot hole in the deck lumber attached to the house, consider blocking it off with sheet metal or cheap caulk. The road may not be from the ground. Any branch touching the house?


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

carpdad said:


> squirrels can climb rough metal pole, so I assume mice can climb up the rough surface of a wall. I think the metal flashing is simplest and the best idea. You have to make sure the drainage is not blocked off. Vinyl is the most leaky siding. It is made for leaking, esp through the channels around the windows. You don't want that water going back into the rim and the sills.
> Surest (relatively) would be remove the bottom course, metal flash (adapted z-flashing), and reside. Making sure the house wrap goes over the metal flashing.
> As for the mice, you have to check every inch. Don't assume and if you see a knot hole in the deck lumber attached to the house, consider blocking it off with sheet metal or cheap caulk. The road may not be from the ground. Any branch touching the house?


No branches touching the house but like you said I have no doubts a mouse would have no issues scaling the siding or even the big tv antenna mast I have and get on the roof.

Sounds to me like I sound not focus on the siding as its not exactly sealed and designed that way.

I'll go around and make sure i seal up where pipes and wires enter the house.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Dryer vents etc...


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Just don't screen the dryer vent exhaust to trap lint. Is the flashing for termites? Under the mudsill plate?

Gary


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Birds will nest in the dryer vent if it is not screened.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

When I had my siding redone, there is one corner that in order to keep the siding true, they had to place some Aluminum flashing in that area. I had mine brought all the way down within 4-6" of the ground and drive, so that I could insulate the Basement wall that was above the ground about 3'.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Here in the US; "*M1502.3 Duct termination.* Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building. Exhaust duct terminations shall be in accordance with the dryer manufacturer's installation instructions. If the manufacturer's instructions do not specify a termination location, the exhaust duct shall terminate not less than 3 feet (914 mm) in any direction from openings into buildings. *Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination. " *bold is mine, from; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_15_sec002.htm

What code are you under?

Gary


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

carpdad vinyl siding is not made to leak and allow water to get between it and the house. If properly installed, no water should be getting behind it. The only thing that should be getting between the siding and the house is air flow, to keep it dry behind it.

Besides getting the false info about Vinyl Siding, where did you pick up that if flashing has to be used at the bottom. Not all siding installs are going to require any type of flashing with the house wrap. Also not all siding installs require house wrap.

I guess I have to call my siding installer in the morning and tell them that I wasted $20k in siding work, because someone on the Internet stated that all siding jobs are incorrectly done.


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

gregzoll said:


> carpdad vinyl siding is not made to leak and allow water to get between it and the house. If properly installed, no water should be getting behind it. The only thing that should be getting between the siding and the house is air flow, to keep it dry behind it.



With the seams in Vinyl siding it seems to me there would be no way to keep all water out (blowing snow rain). I found this:
"
There is a common misconception about Vinyl Siding. Most people think that the Vinyl Siding itself protects your home from water damage. This is partially true. The Vinyl Siding is only the primary defense to water infiltration. Vinyl siding expands and contracts with temperature changes. For this reason, it is installed loosely to allow for this movement. There are also seams in vinyl siding. Both of these conditions allow wind driven rain to get behind the panels. In certain areas of the home, the use of J-Channels funnel larger amounts of water behind the siding. Therefore, it is crucial to install a well designed secondary layer of defense to protect your home. This is called the Weather Resistant Barrier System (WRB), otherwise known as the Drainage Plane. 

The WRB consists of a combination of housewraps or insulation boards, flashing and dripcaps. All housewraps, flashing and dripcaps must be installed in “weather board fashion”, overlapping each layer, working from the bottom to the top. Dripcaps are installed over all windows and doors. All seams in the WRB must be sealed with tape designed for that particular WRB. 
If the WRB is installed correctly any water that gets behind the siding will run down the wall and drain out at the bottom. For the most part, it is acceptable to have small amounts of water travel down a wall and escape in this manner. However, there are certain areas of a home that are prone to larger amounts of water getting behind the siding. In these areas it’s better to divert the water to the exterior of the siding as soon as possible.
"


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The Al-Side Prodigy Siding I have on my house, uses a "S" style channel to interlock each row. Nothing will get between the siding sections. It basically becomes one monolithic unit.


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

gregzoll said:


> The Al-Side Prodigy Siding I have on my house, uses a "S" style channel to interlock each row. Nothing will get between the siding sections. It basically becomes one monolithic unit.


I was talking about the seam at the end of a 12 foot length. They overlap the siding horizontally but it is not sealed.
I have to actually replace a length due to, i assume my son, poking a hole the size of the end of a broom handle in a section. The sell what they call a zip tool to "un latch" the "S" channel.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Ironmanx said:


> I was talking about the seam at the end of a 12 foot length. They overlap the siding horizontally but it is not sealed.
> I have to actually replace a length due to, i assume my son, poking a hole the size of the end of a broom handle in a section. The sell what they call a zip tool to "un latch" the "S" channel.


They actually used the longest runs that they could, so that they could eliminate the seams as much as they could. The ends slip in 6" to the next one, with the Foam backer on the siding overlaps that seam. The corners and the J-Channels around windows & doors is actually longer than normal J-Channels.

The house has actually stayed cooler, since I got the new siding. They used Pressure Treated 3/4" Plywood to cover the block foundation that was above ground, so that they could place the siding down within 4" of the ground.

They had to leave the old Wood siding in place, along with the old Celotex, because of Lead Paint on the old wood and Asbestos in the Celotex. The foam on the back of the siding, acts as a Vapor barrier, so it actually went up pretty quick for me.


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

gregzoll said:


> They actually used the longest runs that they could, so that they could eliminate the seams as much as they could. The ends slip in 6" to the next one, with the Foam backer on the siding overlaps that seam. The corners and the J-Channels around windows & doors is actually longer than normal J-Channels.
> 
> The house has actually stayed cooler, since I got the new siding. They used Pressure Treated 3/4" Plywood to cover the block foundation that was above ground, so that they could place the siding down within 4" of the ground.
> 
> They had to leave the old Wood siding in place, along with the old Celotex, because of Lead Paint on the old wood and Asbestos in the Celotex. The foam on the back of the siding, acts as a Vapor barrier, so it actually went up pretty quick for me.


My siding is not insulated and there is just plywood and house wrap behind it. Siding with insulation built into it doesn't seem that popular in Canada. I googled homedepot.ca and only found one product and it looks like its more for making it more rigid (fake log home looking siding) then actually insulating. Seems like it would be a good idea in Canada though.


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## Ironmanx (Sep 7, 2015)

So I've learned on here that the bottom up the siding should not be sealed.
I thought I would just post a pic of the bottom of the siding but i believe at this point i should just leave it alone.


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## ChiTownPro (May 18, 2014)

carpdad said:


> squirrels can climb rough metal pole, so I assume mice can climb up the rough surface of a wall. I think the metal flashing is simplest and the best idea. You have to make sure the drainage is not blocked off. Vinyl is the most leaky siding. It is made for leaking, esp through the channels around the windows. You don't want that water going back into the rim and the sills.
> Surest (relatively) would be remove the bottom course, metal flash (adapted z-flashing), and reside. Making sure the house wrap goes over the metal flashing.
> As for the mice, you have to check every inch. Don't assume and if you see a knot hole in the deck lumber attached to the house, consider blocking it off with sheet metal or cheap caulk. The road may not be from the ground. Any branch touching the house?


House wrap goes up before any siding. Flashing is then taped.

Vinyl isn't designed to leak nor should or leak.

The J-channel around dies and windows should also not have drainage, the water will run out and down. The only time I use drainage holes is along roof lines when the channel is installed on a level plane. 

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk


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