# Rotors question



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> and, OEM turned rotors in the rear.
> 
> Makes me think it's the rear ones.


Ayuh,...... I concur,..... Anytime I've had warped rotors turned, they warp again the 1st time ya get 'em hot,.....


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

I'll just swap them out.. braking becomes interesting...


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Almost nobody cuts them any longer and most of them are not indicated to be re-cut on a lathe. If it has the thin face that mounts on the spindle, don't bother.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

Check your calipers (and drums if you have them) for proper operation. Stop throwing new rotors at it, something is causing them to warp very quickly. Could be a stuck caliper, for instance.

While you have the calipers off to check, replace the guide pins and lube them up. The guide pin kits are cheap and it's good insurance. For a car that old if the calipers slide pins haven't been replaced then I'd bet a dollar that's causing the issue. Those pin boots degrade over time causing the pins to corrode and the grease to escape.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Rotors very rarely warp. What usually happens is that your pads deposit material on them and they get glazed, which causes uneven friction surfaces. If you _think_ your rotors are warped, take a sander and sand both surfaces of each rotor first.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

You ever tried to sand rotors? I did. As a slave punishment, it's a good idea. 

Guides are good, everything is lubricated. I side with bondo. Some rotors simply are that way. 

And yes, rotors do not warp.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

When I said a sander, I meant a power sander, not a sanding block.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Yeah, that's exactly what I meant. Angle grinder. Blanchard grinding. Slave punishment. And, really does not much. And, toxic like nuclear plant sewer.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Have you had the alignment checked?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Twice. Has none to do with it. It's rotors shake. It's a BIG HEAVY car, rotors work hard to stop it.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Biggest issue I see with new brakes, is proper break in. If the brakes are done properly (i.e. pads, rotors, proper torque on the wheels, lubrication of the slide pins, and well functioning calipers), most people get on them too hard too early.


The Jeeps were notorious for under-sizing the brakes. My old 4Runner would get 100K out of a set of brakes.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

bedding was done as recommended by StopTech. I bed in rotors for years.
As noted, it's new rotors in the front and OEM turned in the rear. All 4 bedded in.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

ukrkoz said:


> bedding was done as recommended by StopTech. I bed in rotors for years.
> As noted, it's new rotors in the front and OEM turned in the rear. All 4 bedded in.



If the car is heavy and the binder undersized, you'll get unequal depositing. The only thing that I ever try to do is when I have to make a hard stop, I don't stop the car completely where it can transfer pad material irregularly. I just let the brakes slip slight like when at a light after a hard stop. Not much, but just stop a bit short of the car and let it slide.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Can you get truck-grade rotors?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

I'll just get carbon ones from Cheron. Lighter. Cheron is, basically, MGM based anyway.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

It was rear rotors. Swapped them out yesterday. FWY commute to Seattle 33 miles. Much better.


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## woodyg2060 (Apr 7, 2017)

FWIW for years on multiple vehicles I've been running centric rotors that I buy from rockauto. Never had an issue. Make sure you lube pins etc. Theres a lot of crappy Chinese parts out there. 

Sent from my SM-T387V using Tapatalk


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Certainly. Thank you.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Glad you got it fixed. But the way to check, assuming the e-brake works the calipers, is to apply the e-brake while moving. That will isolate rear from front.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

ratherbefishing said:


> Glad you got it fixed. But the way to check, assuming the e-brake works the calipers, is to apply the e-brake while moving. That will isolate rear from front.



?????????


I have rear rotors and P-brake is inside the rotor hat. Normal hydraulic rear brakes with rotors.


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## carmusic (Oct 11, 2011)

ukrkoz said:


> ?????????
> 
> 
> I have rear rotors and P-brake is inside the rotor hat. Normal hydraulic rear brakes with rotors.



there are multiple design of rear P-brake, your is a mix of disc brake and drum P-brake principle


https://repairguide.autozone.com/zn...00c152/80/07/53/7c/large/0900c1528007537c.gif


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Typically they don't mix. You either have drum brakes for your parking brake, or you have disc brakes for your parking brake. If the former, you probably do have disc brakes as well (unless your car is really old) but they are for stopping, not parking.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

huesmann said:


> Typically they don't mix. You either have drum brakes for your parking brake, or you have disc brakes for your parking brake. If the former, you probably do have disc brakes as well (unless your car is really old) but they are for stopping, not parking.


There are plenty of vehicles that have 4 wheel disc brakes, with drum style parking brake (uses the rotor hat as a drum).


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Joeywhat said:


> There are plenty of vehicles that have 4 wheel disc brakes, with drum style parking brake (uses the rotor hat as a drum).


Reread what I wrote:


huesmann said:


> Typically they don't mix. You either have drum brakes for your parking brake, or you have disc brakes for your parking brake. If the former, you probably do have disc brakes as well (unless your car is really old) but they are for stopping, not parking.


Nothing there is contradictory with your claim.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I hate working on those tiny rotor hat drum parking brakes.


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