# What type of grass is this?



## bajaboy1 (Nov 21, 2007)

Before someone say's something, that's not my Journey cd!!! It's the wifes!!!
LOL!!!


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

looks like crabgrass to me. Typically you use a pre-emergent weed killer in spring before the plants seeds germinate. WHen to apply depends on where you live. Halts by Scotts is one brand.


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

Goosegrass.
The silvery-white center is distinctive. Looking down at it on the ground you can see it much better than in these photos. Not criticizing the photos, just saying looking at it from a different angle.
Crabgrass is much longer stemmed and the seed pods are in clusters at the end of the stems, hence 'digitarius' in the name.


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## bajaboy1 (Nov 21, 2007)

more pics


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

New pics help. Now I can see that it is Dallisgrass. Basically the same as crabgrass and you can use an MSMA crabgrass killer on it with fairly good results. Those big, flat wads of green are fairly distinctive in that they don't grow as high as the crabgrass and goosegrass.

Try reading this:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7491.html

This on smooth crabgrass (not the large hairy crabgrass) shows that can be confusing:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/WEEDS/smooth_crabgrass.html

Hope this helps.
Richard


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

bajaboy1 said:


> I'm in Northern Ky.
> About and 1/8-1/4 of my yard is this clumpy, course grass.
> What is it and how do I irraticate it?
> 
> Thanks


Crabgrass.

To get rid of it, you'll have to dig it out with a spade and then put down good grass seed. Before spring, put down some preemergent crabgrass killer.


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

> To get rid of it, you'll have to dig it out with a spade


That's a lot of diggin'.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

downunder said:


> That's a lot of diggin'.


Who ever said lawn care was easy?


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

You can get some Roundup spray and if you aim right kill only the crabgrass if it is in isolated patches. Otherwise, wait til spring to put down the pre-emergent. You still need to use the pre-emergent either way as crabgrass you have has likely produced seeds that will germinate next year so you have to get them next year before they try to germinate.


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## bajaboy1 (Nov 21, 2007)

Shot it with some round up. Ended up being 1/2 the yard, so diggin was not an option. I'll treat it next spring I guess. 
Read somewhere that it's an annual anyway? I guess I wasted my time even trying to kill it this late in the year? 
I'll just aerate and overseed now and wait till spring for crabgrass treatment. 
Sound like a plan?
Thanks


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## bajaboy1 (Nov 21, 2007)

Yep, definetly Dallisgrass after looking at that link. Looks like I may be holding off on my aerating and seeding so I can rid this stuff. May take a couple applications of killer I guess. Even after I kill it with round up, how long till I can aerate and overseed? I'm here in Northern Ky.
Thanks


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

bajaboy1 said:


> Yep, definetly Dallisgrass after looking at that link. Looks like I may be holding off on my aerating and seeding so I can rid this stuff. May take a couple applications of killer I guess. Even after I kill it with round up, how long till I can aerate and overseed? I'm here in Northern Ky.
> Thanks


Probably after it rains a few times.

Also, if you put down fresh seed, it may not be a good idea to put down a preemergent crabgrass/weed killer like Scotts with Halts come spring time.


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## bajaboy1 (Nov 21, 2007)

I think I'm going to just dig it all up since I have an aerator rented for this weekend. 
So if I put down new seed this weekend, don't use preemergent crabgrass/weed killer next spring?
Also, when I put down this new seed, can/should I use a starter fert, and do I still need to put down something before winter?
Thanks again.


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

> Even after I kill it with round up, how long till I can aerate and overseed? I'm here in Northern Ky.


If you use "Roundup" (glyphosate) you can aerate and reseed in just a day or two. Soil bacteria will neutralize the glyphosate almost immediately. FYI- If you use lake water, etc. to mix Roundup, it will be useless and not work, according to other information I have come across, although I cannot vouch for that personally. I do know that glyphosate works by being absorbed through the leaves, which is why it is one of the safer products to use with the caveat of good aim. Whatever you get it on, it will effect. But, it does not last in the soil to bother roots, etc.

Commercial Pesticide Applicator

ABSOLUTELY NO PRE-EMERGENT until next spring!

I always use a small amount of starter fertilizer. Phosphorous (middle number) helps roots develope. Also, P does not move in the soil very readily, which in my opinion means that if you wait until the roots are 4-6 inches deep, then put out fertilizer, the food will be trying to catch the roots. Think of as: A. being late for supper and having to wait in line at your favorite restaurant or, B. Having reservations made with your order already on the table!


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

Since next year's crabgrass comes from this year's seeds, rototilling and reseeding now will only mix the seeds into your new lawn to sprout next year. Evidently there is a weed killer there is a pre-emergent killer that doesn't affect grass (mentioned on This Old House once) but it is not the stuff in Halts from Scotts. Best to call a local garden place to see if they have it. Might try searching TOH website to see if that episode's content is archived. I think what you are doing is essentially correct: get a new lawn going is easiest this time of year with warm days and cool nights. Water during the day and not at night to reduce fungus risk.
Good luck with it!
B


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

Bob,
Are you familiar with pendimethalyn, isoxaben, or oryzalen?


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## Kap (Jun 20, 2008)

What about corn gluten meal?

http://www.pesticide.org/pubs/alts/cgm/cornglutenmeal.html


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

Sorry, I'm clueless on those chemicals. Why not try calling your state's agriculture extension office (like http://turfgrassmanagement.psu.edu/homelawns.cfm)
or a local garden supply place (not the big box places)? Someone should be able to steer you to the right kind of chemical to use.
Local PBS radio has a guy on weekly who espouses gluten use. You can likely search the archives here for his info on gluten:
http://www.gardensalive.com/article_mcgrath.asp?ai=4&bhcd2=1222045170


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## bajaboy1 (Nov 21, 2007)

Ok, so here's the plan. Wait a few more day's on my killer to work more. Dig/rake it all up.
Aerate in two different directions.
Overseed (should I use a slitter?).
Apply starter fertilizer.
I was then thinking about a top dressing after reading up on it. My lawn is about 6 years old and not very smooth anyway. Hope they rent something for that. 
Use pre-emergent in the spring then?
Sound like a plan?
Thanks.


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

Don't forget the straw after you seed!


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

Bajaboy,
I think I would aerate as you described, top dress (I've seen no machine available for home owner use but they may exist; I think it is shovel, wheel barrow, and rake time with a lot of Advil), then seed with a slitter if you can get one (do it at half the rate indicated for your type of seed and do it at a right angle to the first seed application to ensure even coverage); then fertilize with starter fertilizer so roots get a good start.
Should be good to go,
B


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