# Heater won't turn off in one zone



## jwiens (Jan 2, 2015)

I assume the zone valve is broken. However I have to leave tomorrow and may not get a plumber in until next week. Is there a safe way to manually turn off a zone? I turned off the thermostat hours ago and the heater is still on. There 4 zones on the system. If I can turn off a zone, do I need to worry about pressure build up anywhere? Thanks!


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## jwiens (Jan 2, 2015)

Any thoughts on this reading?


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

You're gauge is showing about 12-13psi. and about 165-170 temp. Those readings are normal for typical hw boiler.

That red movable needle can be used to set a danger/warning temp/psi if readings go above 32psi or 200 degrees if desired.


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

How did you determine the zone valve is bad?

Need pictures so we can see how it's plumbed.

Safest thing to do, being how you're in a rush to leave tomorrow, is to just shut the entire system down until you can get someone in there to look at it. Look for an emergency switch (usually red color cover says gas or oil on it) or a breaker at the power panel to shut it down, I've never seen a set-up without one. Just a suggestion.

Don't know your location, if in a cold area like me, it's suppose to warm up and rain this weekend. Don't want to freeze any pipes, then you'll have a worse situation on your hands.

Please wait for the hvac guys, they will be along with more suggestions/advice. Thanks.


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## Technow (Nov 12, 2010)

jmon said:


> You're gauge is showing about 12-13psi. and about 165-170 temp. Those readings are normal for typical hw boiler.
> 
> That red movable needle can be used to set a danger/warning temp/psi if readings go above 32psi or 200 degrees if desired.



I see the 166 psig reading.....

but 12-13 psi????? It looks like the guage reads just under the relief setpoint???


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

One zone locked on, can be from a faulty thermostat, short anywhere across both thermostat lines, broken zone valve switch but is usually from the Zone valve motor failing when the zone valve was in the fully open position.
Sometimes turning the power off to the whole boiler for 15 minutes will allow the zone valve motor to resume it's operation after it's cooled down but this is often just a temporary reprieve. 

You do have 4 wires going to your Zone valve- 2 for the motor and 2 to the electrical switch. If you can determine which are the two wires that go to the Zone valve switch then you can cut one of them( where they have enough slack to be reconnected later) and your boiler will stop running endlessly because of that particular zones fault.. 
But
When any of the other thermostats are calling for heat, that zone will also heat up.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

Technow said:


> I see the 166 psig reading.....
> 
> but 12-13 psi????? It looks like the guage reads just under the relief setpoint???


The 166 is temperature not pressure. It's a dual guge. Pressure is the black writing on the left side. There are 2 scales. The inner scale is PSI... about 13psi

The outer scale is feet H2O (which is about 30)


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## Technow (Nov 12, 2010)

Bob Sanders said:


> The 166 is temperature not pressure. It's a dual guge. Pressure is the black writing on the left side. There are 2 scales. The inner scale is PSI... about 13psi
> 
> The outer scale is feet H2O (which is about 30)


sorry

must be a canadian scale :thumbup:


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## jwiens (Jan 2, 2015)

Thank you everyone! I spoke to my local HVAC person and he had me unplug the boiler. When I plugged it back in, the unit worked fine. He thinks the valve motor must be sticking. He told me to just call him back when it stops working again so he can come look at it then. Thank you also for the information on my gauge!


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Glad everything worked out for you. :thumbsup: Keep an eye on it.


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## jimn (Nov 13, 2010)

Glad it's working now but I would an on replacing that valve at some point. Sticking zone valves usually stick again.


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