# How often should you seal an asphalt driveway?



## RDS (Feb 29, 2008)

Ours was laid new in Nov. 2006. Northern New Jersey. Haven't had it sealed since; wondering if that's something I need to get moving on. Thanks.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Like changing the oil in a vehicle, or painting a house, it's best to do it _before_ you actually _need_ to
Once you finally _need_ to, then there is more work/prep/repair/etc involved

Although it may not be showing obvious signs of wear or be in obvious need of repair at that time, every two years would keep your driveway in excellent shape and significantly reduce prep and repair over the life of your driveway

Your actual usage and environment may vary that, but it's a good guideline for the NE USA


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## RDS (Feb 29, 2008)

*Thanks slickshift*

I'll plan to get that done before the winter then.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

You can often get a good deal from the pros as winter approaches
They need to empty those tanks before they freeze


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

I see you posted this question in Aug. but in case you haven't sealed it yet, here goes... Do not buy the driveway sealers that you can get at your local hard wear store. They are basically just black paint. I work for a City and we do a lot of seal coating. You want to get a product (if your doing it your self) from an asphalt co. The best emulsions actually have sand in them so it will give you a wear base that will prevent your original asphalt from wearing and protect it from stains. It's easy to do yourself but if you have someone do it just shop around. There is a lot of fly-by-night installers that will water down there product to make twice the profit. Your driveway will look great when there finished but wont last a season. Good luck.

KB


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Interesting... It is my understanding that driveway sealers are simply dressings to keep your driveway looking good. They may offer some minimal topical protection for a short period with regard to leaking oil and the like.

Most driveway damage begins underneath the driveway from moisture and frost etc. 

Blacktop is water soluble, and water will degrade it over time. Usually witnessed first at the edges where they begin to break away.

If you dress down your driveway you are doing it mainly for aesthetics not because it will make your driveway last longer.

Kbrena is correct, and for my money the point is not stressed enough... They are all in a sense paint, even the rubberized sanded ones. Also so called airport grades.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

*To keep the analogy...*

...and just as paint keeps your house from rotting, so does driveway sealer keep your driveway from breaking up into chunks

It is a bit more than something to make it look nice
Though it's true the DIY stuff is not the same animal as the qualty pro stuff
But the regular professional sealcoating absolutely does make your driveway last longer


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

slickshift and docfletcher you both make good points. It is not actually paint or enamel, even the home Depot sealers are made from asphalt emulsion, it is just the percentage of the emulsion that makes it last. You are correct about most damage starting underneath the drive way, but if you never seal the surface it ends up looking like exposed aggregate because of the surface asphalt wearing out. when it is sealed with a good sealer it will fill all the divots, voids and make it smooth, like it looked when it was new. The diluted sealers just make it look black, the divots and all. I will check the product that we use when I go back to work on Monday. The thick emulsion with rubber and sand really cover good and last.


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Quite right, the use of a good quality sealer will help to keep your drive looking good. The exposed aggregate look which you speak of is a combination of wear and the fact that asphalt is water soluble. 

A sealer should be applied every year as it wears away with the weather.

Shoe polish for your driveway.


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## RDS (Feb 29, 2008)

*Thanks again everyone*

That's helpful information. I will get it done before the winter and make sure I find a pro who uses the good stuff, not the watery stuff. I would consider DIYing it, but I understand that any excess I have is considered hazardous waste (at least, driveway sealer on my town's list of hazardous wastes) and I'd just as soon someone else deal with that.

I park in the garage so oil staining is minimal. But I imagine it still suffers from rain, abrasion from snow shoveling and all the usual factors. Plus it cracks from the ever-growing roots of my neighbor's giant oak tree. I'm thinking that filling up those cracks will help slow the deterioration of the thing.

Thanks.


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

Your on the right track RDS. Hey, Docfletcher I love your reference to shoe polish, it's true. Good luck RDS.

KB


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## kypper (Jan 16, 2007)

I am also in need of blacktop repair and resealing. What should I ask to determine if the pro uses the good stuff or not? I would assume noone will admit watering down the sealer. If they are dishonest to water it down they would be just as dishonest to lie about it when asked. Thank you.


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

kypper, that is a good question. First of all, how large is the asphalt repair you need done? The problem you may find with a small patch is that asphalt is sold by the ton. A ton will do approximately 80 sq.ft. at a depth of 2". in my area it's sold @ a 1 ton minimum. So if you have a small patch I would suggest calling some asphalt companies to see if there doing work in your area, since they always order a little extra. Or best yet would be if you saw some guys doing a driveway close by and ask if they want to make some side money. Or you could ask if they would sell you a 5 gallon bucket full. Make sure you have a metal bucket because it will melt a plastic one. It is easy to do your self if it is small enough.

As for as the sealer. If you go with a company that has been in business for a while, you should be fine. Most people are good, you just need to go by your gut feeling. Ask how long they warranty after it's done. You just need to stay away from low bid fast talking contractors with fly-by-night names. Lol. If you see a driveway that looks like it has been sealed and looks good, go up to the house and ask about it. I do things like that all the time. Most people are happy that something they had done looks nice and are helpful. There is nothing better then a good word of mouth referal. 
Good luck,

KB


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## kypper (Jan 16, 2007)

I don't need that much of a repair. The blacktop has setteled where it meets the concrete of the garage, other than that it is in good shape. Do the people that seal driveways normally fix something like that? Otherwise, would the buckets of asphalt repair sold at home depot be a good way to fix this before having it sealed? 

Thanks.


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

What you are referring to from Home Depot is cold mix. The difference between cold mix and hot mix is that diesel is added to the mix to prevent it from getting completely hard. We use it a lot for temporary road repairs. I think it would work just fine for what you are talking about. We have overlay-ed roads that had cold patches with no problems. I asked at the asphalt plant where we get our asphalt if there would be a problem overlaying over cold mix patches. He said that when the diesel evaporates out of the cold mix it becomes as hard as hot mix. if it's hot in your area it should evaporate pretty quick since it is such a small repair.

Here is a tip on compacting... use a flat shovel or a rake and spread it out level over the area. leave it up about an inch or so, less if it's real shallow. wheal rolling it with you car is the best way. Lay a piece of plywood over the repair and slowly drive back and forth over it. If your not able to get your car in the area you can tamp it with anything flat. You can even use your foot if the area if really small. 
Good luck


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

*repair driveway....*

Hi there,

I'm new at these forums, so I don't know if it is kosher to step into someone's thread with another question; but I was reading this thread and it sounded like some people actually knew what they were talking about.

My next door neighbour borrowed my driveway for a backhoe to come in and excavate his lawn to repair sewer damage. The little mini kabota did a number on my driveway (scraped and ripped up chunks). It was already in rough shape anyway - 45 degree angle, sunken in where the tires drive, bumpy. 

My neighbour and I have discussed the repair of the driveway, but I know he has just paid a whopping amount to fix his plumbing problem; they are good neighbours and I like them and want to maintain a good relationship with them. He has suggested having the driveway patched, but I don't really like that idea because then you have splotches of new asphalt randomly dotted amongst the old asphalt. So then he suggested resealing it.

I'm putting my house on the market this summer and I don't want to turn away prospective buyers with poor curb appearance. Any suggestions on the most economical/best solution for this problem?

Thanks very much!

Karen


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

The short answer is get two recommendations from pros. Find out if your drive is worthy of patch repair, and the cost associated with the repair or replacement.

Since the drive was already in rough shape I would most likely have the neighbor pay me the cost of the patch repair and seal job. But, I would not do the repair. Instead I would apply that money to a new drive.

How many patch's are we talking about here?


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

Well, I'm not exactly sure how to answer that question. I've never seen it done before so I don't know how it patches - does it cover a bunch of small areas or does it cover a larger area? There are lots of spots all over the driveway that are bad.


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Sounds like you may want to replace rather than repair. Especially since your gonna be selling.

Don't feel bad for neighbor who spent on septic repair. Think how bad off he would be if he was not able to use your drive. :yes:


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

I agree with you, I'm just not really great at being assertive. If you were my neighbour, how would you respond to that idea? Any suggestions on how to broach the subject?


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

you could call some asphalt contractors in your area and get an estimate on having a 1"-2" overlay over your existing driveway. It is much less expensive because they don't need to dig up and haul away your asphalt. They will need to patch any areas with cracks because they will travel up threw the new overlay. But dips and chunks will cover up when they lay down the asphalt. The most important part of an overlay is the prep work. So make sure they put a SOLID covering of tac (tac is what makes the new asphalt stick to the old) over the entire driveway. It will be less expensive for you and your neighbor to go in half on. Good luck Karen66.

Kelly


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

I like that idea. Tell the neighbor you expect him to pay 20% of the cost. Be sure to get the $$$ before you agree to have your contractor do the work.

How long is your drive?


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

yea, 20% would be more reasonable than 1/2 since the driveway was already in need of work.


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

Here is my advice. When you see the guys hooking up the road and there a private contractor. There is your man. Ask them to swing by and take a look. Or if you see a crew doing a grocery store or other big parking lot ask them to swing buy. They would probably have enough left over to knock out a driveway no problem.


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks for all of your suggestions! I will do some checking and looking around and see who is available/ cost, etc.

I appreciate all of your input. Have a great summer!

Karen


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## warmsmeallup (Apr 3, 2008)

Hi Karen:

My .02:

If you lay another couple of inches of new asphalt over the existing patched and worn driveway, the new is based off the old. It's just a salesman's way of getting something instead of nothing, if full replacement is not in the budget.

When you have a driveway that you know is shot, bite the bullet and replace it. You won't be sorry. Otherwise you're throwing good money to bad.


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

I agree with you in theory, but in practice I have a couple of issues: 1) I have a non-existent budget. Seriously. And 2) the plan is to sell the house and "they" say not to spend money that won't be returned in the sale price. The house was a real junker when I first walked into it and the landscaping consisted of an over-grown rhubarb patch and swampy backyard. And as my mother keeps reminding me.... I still bought it. In the winter time I have to park at the bottom of the driveway and, depending on the day, pull myself up over the sheet of ice that extends between me and the doorway. It's not fun. But if it weren't for the excavation skidmarks, I hadn't had any intention of repairint the albeit needy driveway. It just wasn't in the budget.

I don't want my neighbour to pay for my bad driveway, but the sewer problem made it much worse - even the gravel underneath the driveway at the bottom is starting to seep out and the ashpalt above is "rolling" away.

Yes, I need a new driveway; but it's just not in my bank account.

Karen


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## warmsmeallup (Apr 3, 2008)

I agree with the 20% suggestion too and understand your situation. Be prepared to hear some negative stuff from the apshalt comapny about the exposed crush run (gravel).


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

It is very helpful to be armed with all of this information - understanding correct terminology and process - so I can better ask for what I want and know whether or not I'm getting it.

Thank you for your input and encouragement!

Cheers, Karen


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

You need to make it very clear that you only want the broken up areas repaired before the overlay. That is all that is really necessary before an overlay. I have worked for a City for 23 years and we budget overlays every year. It is just not practical to tear out an entire road and put in all new asphalt (unless it's necessary) when you can only repair the damaged areas and get the same results and life from an overlay. Just as you would, a City or County would also go broke if they only replaced with new every time. Trust me, your driveway will be fine with an overlay. As long as the proper repairs are made with a good base. Let me know what contractors tell you. I would be willing to call and speak to them for you if you would like. If I was to do that it would be very helpful if you sent pictures of your entire driveway and the areas that need repair. My e-mail address is [email protected] in case you are not able to post on DYI web site. 

Kelly


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## karen66 (Jul 9, 2008)

I will definitely do that, and THANK YOU for the offer! That is very generous. I need to borrow a digital camera from someone and will take the pics.

When you use the word "repair" first, I'm assuming that refers to "patching"? Is a patch or the overlay made of asphalt? The 2" overlay that people are referring to, does that still need to be "sealed"?

This is all very helpful!!!

And thanks everyone for understanding my financial situation.

This is a great forum!

Karen


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## kbrena (Jun 8, 2008)

Karen,
Yes, repairing and patching are the same. The patch and the overlay are both asphalt. Most of the terminology referring to asphalt is just like it sounds (made simple for people like me with a small brain) LoL. Like, fixing a repair on a tire, you put a patch, same thing. An overlay is just like it sounds you _*lay* _asphalt *over *asphalt = *overlay. *I know, your probably thinking, why don't they call it "layover" then. Lol. Seriously, back to your questions. As far as sealing it. If I were you I wouldn't even worry about sealing it yourself since you are selling your house. Just remind the buyers that they are getting a new driveway with the deal. just to let you know, an overlay will look no different from the surface than if you were to completely put a new driveway in. Save that money and seal the driveway at the new house you'll be moving into.

I agree, this is an awesome forum.

Kelly


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## deeb (Jul 26, 2008)

*best stuff to use*

What is the best for sealing a driveway- an oil based product or a polymer. I have two professioal guys, both swearing by one of them.


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## savgguy (Feb 29, 2012)

RDS said:


> Ours was laid new in Nov. 2006. Northern New Jersey. Haven't had it sealed since; wondering if that's something I need to get moving on. Thanks.


 Depending upon the present condition of your driveway. The best time to seal a driveway is as soon as it has cured(generally 90days of moderate temperature weather-do not include winter for nj. sealing the oavement provides a insulating barrier that protects the oil based bituminous (asphalt) pavement from being degraded by solvent,oil,fuel leaks or spills, ultraviolet rays, sunlight which over time dries out the pavement turning it lighter in color and brittle and more prone to erosion; especially on the surface as the fine aggregate(sand,stone dust) in between the larger mix aggregate(ussually a 3/8 incnh stone) dissapates or becomes dry and breaks away leaving the driveway apear rougher and then without the fine aggregate bondind the next stage of ersion will be when the larger (3/8 ") aggregate starts breaking out; a codition called ravelling... At this point your in trouble and must halt the ravelling or look at replacing the pavement again in a few years or less. So seal it after six months to a year and keep it sealed every 3 years or so and if it was properly constructe from the beginning you may have a driveway that will look 1 year old 30 years from now. I guarentee this..Do not use the wrong sealer or you could destroy the pavement. do not seal over a surface that is not properly cleaned and dust free or the product may wear or peel off and resealing won't help much if he perevious pour sealer wants to peel off taking the newer good job with it..agin you may destroy the driveway.. There really aren't many options when it comes to the driveway maintenanc; and the big stores sell cold crap that is sub standard and would not meet recomended engineering specs.( sorry for being blunt...but truthfull). You have to maintain your driveway just like everything else. If you do it incorrctly you could do lots of damage. the factors to be cosidererd are ; surface texture; ie; fine,medium,rough.,cracks? oil sots, against curb or building, drainage. Botom line is that the average 1500 sq. ft. driveway of medium surface texture, having 1 or 2 small oil spots, 15-30 feet of narrow cracks with curbs on both sides costs about $350. to do. As a contractor I can tell you one of our crews will do about 5-6 of these daily and our prices must be competitive(confrmed) as 62% of our estimates turn into jobs. Please, do know this; Additionally, more than 90% of those who refer to themselves as contractors are not , in my opinion, or would they be recognized as professional by any proper construction procurement agency, as qualified to provide the sealcoating service.....sincerely, Tom Hamway of kristophersealcoating.com


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## savgguy (Feb 29, 2012)

Oil based pavement sealer is not legally distributed in nj for the past decade plus. It also would react with the similar oil base of the asphalt . so there would be ros and cons to its use...short answer is NO to oil base.


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## savgguy (Feb 29, 2012)

Docfletcher said:


> Interesting... It is my understanding that driveway sealers are simply dressings to keep your driveway looking good. They may offer some minimal topical protection for a short period with regard to leaking oil and the like.
> 
> Most driveway damage begins underneath the driveway from moisture and frost etc.
> 
> ...


 You really don't know what your talking about... sealer will protect the fine aggregate between the larger 3/8 aggregate from drying up and eroding , washing away exposing the larger aggregate and than the next stage of erosion is raveling when the 3/8 stone breaks free and dissapates opeening the surfac even 1/4" lower wher ther is a differenc in desity of only a fw percent but that make s th asphalt so, so much weaker and suseptible to cracking and other erision.. A properly constructed driveway that is properly sealed( not by hand) in its 1st 6monthhs to a year and every 3 years after that will hold up and look like new 30 or even 35 years after installation.. I've built it, done it and seen it many times. subteranian conditions have to be correct. It also cannot be oversealed or have a selent applied to thickly as the material will not release or expell agents. You should be able to smell your driveway on a still day; even after 30 years. anyway; nGodnight..


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Is there a specific diy product anyone can recommend?


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## cds123 (Sep 12, 2016)

It's a good idea to seal every year to protect and increase life of the driveway. Be sure to fill cracks with crack filler as well.


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