# Replace/Repair Door Jamb?



## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

You can dig out the rotten wood and try to insert a new piece of wood. If the rotten area is small you could use Minwax's two part wood filler. A repair is not a long term solution! Your door has rot because of one of these reasons;

-someone does not keep up with the painting/caulking.

-the door frame (jamb) sucks up water due to poor construction.

-water/snow is not able to melt away from the door.

If you decide to buy a new door, get one that has "jamb savers" meaning the bottom foot or so is made with a product that does not suck water into the jamb. Also look for a door that has "jamb on sill" meaning that the jamb sits on the sill and does extend under the sill.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> You can dig out the rotten wood and try to insert a new piece of wood. If the rotten area is small you could use Minwax's two part wood filler. A repair is not a long term solution! Your door has rot because of one of these reasons;
> 
> -someone does not keep up with the painting/caulking.
> 
> ...


Poor construction along with a lack of gutters and no storm door is to blame. The bottom foot of the door jamb has been rotten since I bought the house. Gutters and a storm door have since been installed. The bottom foot is so rotten I can actually pull the wood apart with my fingers. 

This is a temp fix until I can come up with a couple thousand dollars for a new door.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

FWIW: a handy tip - We often use actual automotive 'bondo' at times for some repairs on rotted or damaged wood where 'attachment' strength is a concern and it is a painted surface (as opposed to a stain grade stock)

It provides a much stronger and rigid patch...especially on or in areas adjacent to a door hinge....

The 'key' is to work it while it is still 'curing'. You can easily get it to smooth out just like any wood type patching compound....


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> FWIW: a handy tip - We often use actual automotive 'bondo' at times for some repairs on rotted or damaged wood where 'attachment' strength is a concern and it is a painted surface (as opposed to a stain grade stock)
> 
> It provides a much stronger and rigid patch...especially on or in areas adjacent to a door hinge....
> 
> The 'key' is to work it while it is still 'curing'. You can easily get it to smooth out just like any wood type patching compound....


I"ve used the "Bondo" when the stores are out of the minwax 2 part stuff. I would swear that it is the same product with just a different label. I will generally drive screws into the good wood and leave the heads sticking out into the void. When the filler is applied it bonds to the screws and they act like rebar. If this is not done and the surrounding wood gets wet it can reject the patch.


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

Tiger, look on your hinges and post the name that is stamped. Does the first letter start with "T" ?


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> Tiger, look on your hinges and post the name that is stamped. Does the first letter start with "T" ?


So thats where they stick it! :yes: Thanks!

Therma-Tru.


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

tigerbalm2424 said:


> So thats where they stick it! :yes: Thanks!
> 
> Therma-Tru.


How did I know that? Your house is between 3-10 years old?


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

10 years :thumbsup:

Sooo.....now that I know the manufacturer, can anyone tell me if I can replace just the rotten door jambs on this door?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Realize this: Since when did any of the "Door manufactures"..... want you to buy a 'part'...when they can sell you the WHOLE DOOR....$$ ?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

fhivinylwindows said:


> I"ve used the "Bondo" when the stores are out of the minwax 2 part stuff. I would swear that it is the same product with just a different label. I will generally drive screws into the good wood and leave the heads sticking out into the void. When the filler is applied it bonds to the screws and they act like rebar. If this is not done and the surrounding wood gets wet it can reject the patch.


 
Could be the same....never used the minwax...

...the screws: Yes when it comes to using screws in door jams, they are a huge additional 'securing' component and measure that can be utilized in ALOT of positive ways that are often overlooked.....


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

I think my issue will be if I choose to repair the lower portion of the door jambs with wood. I dont know if I would actually have something to secure the new wood to since the jambs look like they back right up to the sidelights.


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

tigerbalm2424 said:


> 10 years :thumbsup:
> 
> Sooo.....now that I know the manufacturer, can anyone tell me if I can replace just the rotten door jambs on this door?


 The reason I asked who made the door is because I knew the answer. Most new doors are made to fail so you have to buy another new door that will fail. If you made a door that would last 60 years you would only be able to sell each homeowner 1 door. Here's another one, make your door with odd sizes so the home owner will have to buy your door again or use the wrong size. 

Your door was designed so you can not change the jamb. New door or patch work. 

Most of the doors that my company replace are less than 15 years old or over 50 years of age. All of the newer doors are replaced due to rot or broken jambs because they are made of pine. The older doors are replaced because people want the new fiberglass doors with weatherstripping. Most of the older doors are in good shape with little or no rot and the jambs are nice and strong because they are fir or oak.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> The reason I asked who made the door is because I knew the answer. Most new doors are made to fail so you have to buy another new door that will fail. If you made a door that would last 60 years you would only be able to sell each homeowner 1 door. Here's another one, make your door with odd sizes so the home owner will have to buy your door again or use the wrong size.
> 
> Your door was designed so you can not change the jamb. New door or patch work.
> 
> Most of the doors that my company replace are less than 15 years old or over 50 years of age. All of the newer doors are replaced due to rot or broken jambs because they are made of pine. The older doors are replaced because people want the new fiberglass doors with weatherstripping. Most of the older doors are in good shape with little or no rot and the jambs are nice and strong because they are fir or oak.


So would you have any suggestions as how to go about repairing the bottom 12 inches of jamb on each side of the door? The rotten part is rotted all the way through the jamb. I dont think I could patch it.


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

Tiger, some prehungs with sidelights are 3 units that are stapled together and some are actually built with as one unit. I would need to know how yours was built in order to answer. Is your sill one long piece or does it have seams at the sidelights?


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> Tiger, some prehungs with sidelights are 3 units that are stapled together and some are actually built with as one unit. I would need to know how yours was built in order to answer. Is your sill one long piece or does it have seams at the sidelights?


I believe mine is stapled together. See Pic. This pic shows just above the door handle.

Note that this unit has two sidelites and a half circle transome on top. Oh, and yes, it has seems at the sidelights. 3 separate sills


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

You have a "boxed unit" (3 separate units). If you can not bondo the area then you will need to replace the lower wood with new stock. The stock will either need to be 3/4" or around 1" (measure what you have). Your jamb extends to the bottom of your sill where it is screwed to the sill. When you remove the old wood the sill should be able to move around---be careful. You will need to secure the sill before you insert your new stock. Try to use a composite material when you replace the wood.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> You have a "boxed unit" (3 separate units). If you can not bondo the area then you will need to replace the lower wood with new stock. The stock will either need to be 3/4" or around 1" (measure what you have). Your jamb extends to the bottom of your sill where it is screwed to the sill. When you remove the old wood the sill should be able to move around---be careful. You will need to secure the sill before you insert your new stock. Try to use a composite material when you replace the wood.


Sounds good. One last question. Is it possible to separate, remove, and replace the entire main door frame as a individual piece?(meaning leave the sidelights and transom in place the whole time) I would assume this would involve cutting all the staples currently holding the three units together, then restapling the new unit in.


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

tigerbalm2424 said:


> Sounds good. One last question. Is it possible to separate, remove, and replace the entire main door frame as a individual piece?(meaning leave the sidelights and transom in place the whole time) I would assume this would involve cutting all the staples currently holding the three units together, then restapling the new unit in.


I have removed staples leaving a transom in place and changed the prehung and sidelights. To be honest with you, if it was my house I would try it. I just can't practice stuff like that on a customers house.

TT's unit size is a little different than most of the other door builders. You might want to use one of their new prehung units. Let me know how it works out.

The staples pull out easier than cutting them.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> I have removed staples leaving a transom in place and changed the prehung and sidelights. To be honest with you, if it was my house I would try it. I just can't practice stuff like that on a customers house.
> 
> TT's unit size is a little different than most of the other door builders. You might want to use one of their new prehung units. Let me know how it works out.
> 
> The staples pull out easier than cutting them.


I just want to tell you I really appreciate all the info you are giving. I am going to lowes right now to measure a couple new prehungs to see if I can find direct replacement(size-wise).


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

Ok, last question before I start disassembling this thing. Looking at the picture above, if I remove all the staples and pull out the section of frame to the left(main door frame), does this part include the entire door jamb as one piece? 

Sorry if that sounds confusing. I guess I am just wondering the jamb is just a component of the main door prehung section or if it connects to the sidelights somehow (other than the stapling)


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

tigerbalm2424 said:


> Ok, last question before I start disassembling this thing. Looking at the picture above, if I remove all the staples and pull out the section of frame to the left(main door frame), does this part include the entire door jamb as one piece?
> 
> Sorry if that sounds confusing. I guess I am just wondering the jamb is just a component of the main door prehung section or if it connects to the sidelights somehow (other than the stapling)


On a TT door you will have the staples and the screws through the hinges that secure the prehung jamb to the sidelight jambs. The sill might be caulked to the subfloor.

The unit size of your prehung unit should be around 37.5" +/- 1/8" the issue is with the height which is generally around 82.25". Most "stock" doors are 37.5x81.5",if you use a 81.5" where you need a 82.25 it will look bad, really bad. The sill height has to match and the interior trim elevation has to match. Call around to your lumber yards on Monday to see if they carry TT.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

Well, lowes doesnt stock any TT prehungs I guess.:no: 

So, emailed a couple other local dealers, i'll just have to wait and see tomrrow what they have.:yes:


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

This is the first project that i have gone cheap on and repaired vs. replaced!

Well, I was able to track down a local TT dealer willing to talk, which is nice. Decided not to try and replace the prehung(which I found out later would have been REALLY easy) and just ordered a new threshold/sill. So, sawzall old rotten wood out, replace with new misc wood, apply wood filler, sand, prime, paint, and caulk. Thats about it. If this becomes rotten again, which it shouldnt, I will just be rebuiling the entire door from scratch. These frames are VERY basic in my opinion.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Tiger...looks great!


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## fhivinylwindows (Jun 11, 2006)

Nice, thanks for posting the pictures!


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

fhivinylwindows said:


> Nice, thanks for posting the pictures!


Digital cameras are great arent they!:thumbsup: Oops, forgot a pic. Above pic is primer only. Here is finished product with caulk and storm door reinstalled.










On to the next project:yes:


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