# Drywall over vinyl coated sheetrock



## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

So, any ideas or comments, folks?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've done it many times, but you do not want to use 3/8, use 1/4" instead.
Reason being is with anything thick it will through off all the trim.
I use Loctite Power Grab in a big S pattern as well as on the outside border 2" in from the edges of the sheetrock and well as a few screws where the vertical seam is.
When cutting it to go around a door or window you leave it far enough back from the edge of the jambs that the trim will still cover the edge. It's not cut close to the jamb so the molding can still sit flush against it.
Before installing I remove all the outlet covers and the two screws holding the outlet in the box, pull out the outlet and tip it back into the box so the sheetrock can be installed without undoing any wires.
All the sides of the panels have to fall in the middle of a stud!
Often times the first piece will need to be ripped, but before doing that check from the opposite inside corner to see which way the panels where run.
Someone's going to jump all over this idea and tell you it's not going to work, well I've done it on mobile homes, over old failing plaster ECT. at least 10 times and had 0 issues or call backs.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

My question would be WHY?:huh:


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## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

Thanks for the advice! Do you have problems with 1/4 drywall with the screws breaking through, or with it breaking the edges off, etc.?


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## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

chrisn said:


> My question would be WHY?:huh:


Because I absolutely HATE the "trailer look" with the vinyl sheet rock with then strips covering the joints. It screams "mobile home" to me every time I look at it.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

1/4" Has to be handled carefully, it's best to have two people to move it around.
If you use a dimpler the screws should not pull through since it's a wall with no weight pulling down on it like a ceiling would be.
I forgot to mention there needs to be a 1/2" gap up off the floor, and once the panel hits the wall just screw one side then use a hand floor roller to go over the panel to spread out the adhesive so there's no humps behind it. Your going to need very few screws.
Not going to need any at the bottom because the baseboard is going to hold it in place.
Before installing I find the studs and use painters tape on the ceiling or on the floor to mark them. A simple way to install the screws without having to mark the wall is to just stand up the drywall square and use it to line up where the studs are.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

bgjff said:


> Because I absolutely HATE the "trailer look" with the vinyl sheet rock with then strips covering the joints. It screams "mobile home" to me every time I look at it.


 
Well, it IS a mobile home, right?:laughing:

I would just paint over it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Vinyl coated Sheetrock??? 

Must be an East Coast thing.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No, it's a mobile home thing.


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## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

joecaption said:


> 1/4" Has to be handled carefully, it's best to have two people to move it around.
> If you use a dimpler the screws should not pull through since it's a wall with no weight pulling down on it like a ceiling would be.
> I forgot to mention there needs to be a 1/2" gap up off the floor, and once the panel hits the wall just screw one side then use a hand floor roller to go over the panel to spread out the adhesive so there's no humps behind it. Your going to need very few screws.
> Not going to need any at the bottom because the baseboard is going to hold it in place.
> Before installing I find the studs and use painters tape on the ceiling or on the floor to mark them. A simple way to install the screws without having to mark the wall is to just stand up the drywall square and use it to line up where the studs are.


Ok, new questions:

What are dimplers (will Google this)? Got it, we always called them sinkers.
So make an S pattern with the glue, and then spread it out to make it stick to the wallboard behind it?
Are there any insurance concerns when doing a refit like this in a mobile home (I would think not).


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## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

chrisn said:


> Well, it IS a mobile home, right?:laughing:
> 
> I would just paint over it.


I traded a big fancy house in a subdivison for a mobile home on three acres so my kids could have a place to play, raise chickens, etc. The trade off was more than worth it. Doesn't mean I have to like the look of the inside of the house, but I can certainly fix what I have.

After I do this work, I am going to put down hardwood floors and put my baseboard down.
In about three years I am going to increase the slope of the roof and put a new metal roof on my house.

T'will be nice when I am done.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

bgjff said:


> I traded a big fancy house in a subdivison for a mobile home on three acres so my kids could have a place to play, raise chickens, etc. The trade off was more than worth it. Doesn't mean I have to like the look of the inside of the house, but I can certainly fix what I have.
> 
> After I do this work, I am going to put down hardwood floors and put my baseboard down.
> In about three years I am going to increase the slope of the roof and put a new metal roof on my house.
> ...


 
I was not putting down mobile homes, I have worked in some really nice ones, like you are trying to make yours. The last one I painted, I just removed all the trim that covered the wall paper seams, skimmed them all out, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted. It would save you a lot of work re dry walling, I would think.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not a great cost effective plan to install hardwood in a mobile home.
More often then not there's just particle board subflooring that's not going to hold a nail or staple, even if it's plywood laminate or a step up engineered flooring would be far more cost effective.
I've lived in mobile homes until I was old enough and have owned two. But they are what they are and there only going to worth just so much when you go to sell them no matter what you try and do.


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## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

chrisn said:


> I was not putting down mobile homes, I have worked in some really nice ones, like you are trying to make yours. The last one I painted, I just removed all the trim that covered the wall paper seams, skimmed them all out, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted. It would save you a lot of work re dry walling, I would think.


Oh, I knew that you were not putting them down. 

I was just listing my plans out. I did a test run of trying to just fix the sheetrock in a bathroom, and it just did not go well- looks kind of bad because there is no spreadspace along the vertical seams. I think I will be happier doing the rewalling since I can mud it correctly.


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## Duckweather (Mar 26, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I use Loctite Power Grab in a big S pattern as well as on the outside border 2" in from the edges of the sheetrock and well as a few screws where the vertical seam is.


This is a method I learned from ONYX solid surface tub surrounds Joe. Apply the adhesive in 2" circles about 6" apart and around edges. This material uses 100% silicone but works with other adhesives. It will stick a 100 lb. sheet to the ceiling with just enough props to insure full contact. The instructions say to pull it back for a few seconds after the first installation, but the suction cup effect is like trying to pull an octopus off a fiberglass boat. I also did Hardie Plank panels with the pattern too. Same effect.


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## bgjff (Jul 18, 2013)

chrisn said:


> I was not putting down mobile homes, I have worked in some really nice ones, like you are trying to make yours. The last one I painted, I just removed all the trim that covered the wall paper seams, skimmed them all out, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted. It would save you a lot of work re dry walling, I would think.


Chrisn, when you did this, did you remove any of the vinyl coated paper, either by cutting or by sanding off the paper?


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