# Leaking Mullion, what to do next?



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Can you post a picture from further back? I can't tell up from down, and I see weep holes where I don't think there should be any.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Here is a picture a little further back, I wondered about the weep holes as well as I can see no use for them where they are located.


For some reason it is re-orienting the pictures and I cannot seem to change it.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Here are 2 more pictures that show the damage beginning where the end of the mullions are. Any chance this is covered by the window manufacturer or was this an installer issue? Any advice how to affect the repair is GREATLY appreciated.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

Six separate comments/questions :

1. Where is the water appearing ?

2. Don't put the trim back on until you get this figured out .

3. Larry , his pics need to be rotated 90* _clockwise_ . Those weep holes are for the bottom of the arch . (Yea , I had to look 4 or 5 times myself)

4. Not to make you feel bad , but this is something the builder should figure out ……….but not 5 years later...………..

5. What is your location ?

6. What brand of window ?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

That is an arch welded to the top of a rectangle and some manufactures leave a hole on both sides. Which is no problem what so ever if it is flashed both above the window and above the wood trim.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Thanks for the feedback so far. Really appreciate the help. I haven't come across much I can't figure out, but this is new to me.



The water is definitely coming from both end of the mullion. I went up today after it had rained for a few days and a trickle of water was coming from the end of the mullion where the hole in the caulk is. Unfortunately I used a hardener on the trim when I replaced it so instead of the trim soaking up the water it is pushing it inside.



Chevy 

1) If you see in the pictures it is appearing at either end of the mullion (diverting the water directly into the trim). You can see the the end of the mullion where the caulk I just applied this past summer has already failed...which is probably a good thing as the water began to enter the home.



2) Unfortunately I already repaired the trim this past summer...and did it correctly unlike what the builder had done (set the trim directly on a drip cap to wick up all the water) 



3) Tried to go after the builder the first year - they replaced the trim (incorrectly I might add) and just said it was a caulk issue. After the 1st year it became part of the 5yrs extended warranty which does not cover it. Builder can't even tell me who he contracted to install the windows.



4) From the wettest city in America - Olympia, WA...rains 25 days a month from Oct-Apr and unfortunately the window is South facing.



5) The windows are manufactured by Cascade Windows, they have a lifetime warranty. I was recaulking all our windows this past summer and found the seal had gone on a pane and they came and replaced it immediately. I do not know/think the mullion would be covered?


Think a window manufacturer's warranty would cover it or is it the installers fault? Would removing the trim and using a silicone caulk on the ends fix it or does the window need to be removed?


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Are the mullions added by the manufacturer?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

This flashing goes under the house wrap. You need 2
https://www.curvedmouldings.com/dripcap-wo.html


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

I looked into that before and was planning on adding it, but I do not think it will solve my issue with the mullion between the windows? I feel it is improbable, but the I almost suspect with our nearly 5ft of rain a year (and winds that slam that side of the house) that it could be entering the weep holes and exiting the sides? 



I am just curious if the whole window needs to be removed (it's about 20ft off the ground) and approximate costs? I'm hopeful it's under the manufacture warranty, but likely falls under installer error.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Again it is the end of the H channel (mullions that appear to be funneling water directly into the side of the trim).


I apologize for the number of replies, but we are just finishing the adoption of 4 wonderful little girls and already had to pay over $5,000 in repairs due to a half ass roof job on the other side of the house last month and $1,500 this past summer because the plumber forgot to connect the overflow pipe to the waste pipe on the bath tub....so I am just anxiously trying to figure out if this is in my wheelhouse or how much more we are going to have to pay...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The glass itself can be changed either inside or outside. If it is the outside and you can figure how to remove the vinyl strip molding, you might see what the problem is.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

I had a friend who is general contractor come and look at it. He suggested I ask the knowledgeable people here about his hypothesis:


He does not specialize in Windows, but suggested the issue could be the vinyl that is attached to the weep hole has enough space between the hole and the vinyl that water could be entering. 



His best guess is that it does not have any where for the water to go out and therefore is carrying it to the only place it can on the outside edge? The logic seems to be there, but how would I correct that?


Is that vinyl serving any purpose or can it be removed, or a hole cut in it, to allow the water to exit before traveling down the channel and into our home?


Thoughts?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> I had a friend who is general contractor come and look at it. He suggested I ask the knowledgeable people here about his hypothesis:
> 
> 
> He does not specialize in Windows, but suggested the issue could be the vinyl that is attached to the weep hole has enough space between the hole and the vinyl that water could be entering.
> ...


 He may be right , the drain is in the upper window and it looks like they just have a double channel to hold the two windows together.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

IrishSwede said:


> but suggested the issue could be the vinyl that is attached to the weep hole has enough space between the hole and the vinyl that water could be entering.
> 
> His best guess is that it does not have any where for the water to go out and therefore is carrying it to the only place it can on the outside edge?
> 
> Thoughts?


The only effect the weep holes would have would be if they are plugged .

It's really hard to diagnose a water leak looking at a computer screen , but :

Neal is probably correct . You have a window with little roof overhang , in the rainiest part of the contiguous 48 , _and it wasn't properly flashed !_………..what could POSSIBLY go wrong ? 


I don't like the looks of your trim (the caulk is probably directing water from the arch _INTO_ the house) , but that window should _probably_ be re-installed properly .


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

I probably should have clarified before, but there is aluminum flashing above the arch trim behind the house wrap (they used an aluminum flashing, snipped the back and bent it to the trim), just not one that is visible unless you get on top and look down...it was added after 3rd trim replacement. 



When we removed and installed the trim there was no signs of water anywhere above the arch trim, but when the side trim was removed it was heavily stained behind, and trim was severely rotted.



We just opened up the inside wall a little and found the water damage begins about an inch below the mullion, but it appears just on the one side.


I am a medically retired PO and spend my free time with habitat for humanity and feel comfortable in repairing the framing, drywall and even the trim, but what would I be looking at (Big ball park) for removing a window like that, re-mulling it and installing it correctly? Will any siding need to be removed? The window is approximately 25ft up so it would need scaffolding. I do not want to use a general contractor so I guess I would call some window specialists. Like I said its been a rough year for this poor house and already nearly 10k in the hole.


So curious if comes to it if it is in the neighborhood of $500-$1,000 or more? Worst case scenario cost, as it seems that's the way it goes with this house...



I am all but certain the issue is water leaving the weep hole and entering that gap...I could see water leaving the weep hole and seeping into that strip. There is a weep hole under that one, but it is almost like it is not angled correctly and the water is exiting freely from the end but barely forming a water drop at the hole.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Photo showing the 2 weep holes, but again it seems like it wants to go away from the 2nd weep hole.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The newest installation procedure starts with the premise that windows leak and we provide a system to catch it and give it a path out. 


Often windows are slid out and pulled into place from the inside and some one scrambles up a ladder and nails it in place. But at a point of awkwardness or heavy that can change to scaffolding to be safe. 


Often on windows like your, they come in 2 pieces and there is inches between the two windows for more wood trim. 
Then the next question is did it go in in one piece or does the top window just sit in a channel and was it put in last.


The flashing you described is a very old idea and should have been upgraded to one that would move water out and away. Prober flashing isn't always pretty on a curved windows so no one wants to do it and explain why.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If in fact you have 2 windows just joined with a double channel you might look at lowering the lower window and put 3" between them like it is normally done.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Would you have any idea what the cost of removing and reinstalling a window would be? 



Unfortunately, where I live, they are building houses so fast that most every reputable company charges $50-$100 just to come and give an estimate - as they have no shortage of business.



I know for sure there would be $150+ just for the scaffolding, the window is in great shape, but given the issues we had with the mullion I am hoping to be able to separate the two windows. I hope this can be done without modifying the sill, but I guess we will not know until the sill is exposed.


We took a syringe and placed just a little water into the top weep hole and it confirmed the water is exiting at the end of the mullion joint with almost none exiting the lower weep hole....4 trims later at least we figured out the culprit. 



I do not the reasoning for those weep holes and why a mullion cannot just be a solid join.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

That is what is referred to as an "H-Mullion" and are problematic for a couple of reasons here. 


1. They are not very tight to the frame and do allow water to bypass the connection between the window and the mullion.
2. They don't appear to even be able to accommodate the installation requirements here as they have effectively buried the weeping pathway behind the mullion.


Ideally, this should have been a "zero" mullion in this case and that would be a better fit as well as leave the weep holes open to drain to the exterior in this case. 



Normally, we can caulk the seam between the H-mullion and the window on other operators, but this one is still going to be problematic because the weep hole is effectively inside the drainage plane in this case. 

If you can isolate where the water is coming from (i.e. either from the lack of tightness in the mullion or draining behind the glazing bead on the arch top window and coming out of the weep hole), you could caulk the window to the mullion if the leaking is from the connection of the two windows vs. via the weep hole. 

If any contingent of the water is coming from the weep holes, you are really going to need to either cut that H-mullion apart (i.e. the front face of it) and install a z-bar capping or replace the window in total.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Thank you to all for the information, does anyone know what something like this could run $$$? Kinda asking for worst case estimate, as in window out replacing/removing the mullion and placing back in and flashing...I assume either that there is also a flashing issue (as water is entering our home now) or it just had to go somewhere and eventually found its way in.



I understand that it is hard to give an estimate with just pictures, but again I called some window specialist here today and they all have a minimum trip charge for an estimate.


Window is 25ft up over driveway, window is 72"x52" (plus arch) and in perfect condition. 



2 of the places I called gave me very different rough estimates (without site visit), both were based on if the window was reusable. One quoted $600 the other $1,500+.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

How old is the window? I would be hard pressed to want to spend between $600 to $1,500 on a window that might have been poorly designed before.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Windows on Wash said:


> That is what is referred to as an "H-Mullion" and are problematic for a couple of reasons here.
> 
> 
> 1. They are not very tight to the frame and do allow water to bypass the connection between the window and the mullion.
> ...


 Do you think that is 2 windows with just a vinyl H shape holding them together? 
We usually get these as 2 windows 3 or 4 1/2 inches apart.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> Thank you to all for the information, does anyone know what something like this could run $$$? Kinda asking for worst case estimate, as in window out replacing/removing the mullion and placing back in and flashing...I assume either that there is also a flashing issue (as water is entering our home now) or it just had to go somewhere and eventually found its way in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 It is really hard to say, I am sceptical of window companies, they quote the job and have no time for rot repair or anything that would slow them down and as replacement work is seldom inspected, some tend to stay with old installation methods that don't necessary work. 
If it is 2 windows I would want to lower the lower one and have 2 separate installation. 


I would have a rental outfit install the scaffolding and get to work


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

I just want it done right. Are they able to easily remove the mull without damaging the window? The window is only 5 years old. Another 2 companies called back with a quote of $500-$750 and for $2,000ish. 



I do agree with you Neal, I do not want anymore field mulls done. I want them to lower the base window so I can install trim between the units. I will also be watching them like a hawk to make sure they do not cut away the house wrap (seen that quite a bit).



I rented scaffolding here before (to repair the trim) and it ran me $400ish for the week (again housing boom so prices are all jacked). Cascade windows also made it clear when I called this morning that if I install it myself it voids the liftetime warranty.


I replaced all 12 of old windows in our old home in Winnipeg MB, but I definitely want the peace of mind knowing it was done right given the beating that window gets. We exposed the inside wall and rot is minimal (just wet, so likely first year it entered the home).


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

I just really would love to know what a fair price is? They seem high for just removing the window, lowering the sill and cutting the lower siding a little to drop it. I also have been asking them to include installing the drip over the arch as I found in my research those aluminum ones we installed are also problematic.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Oh and cascade said it appears to be a field mull and not factory mull...so no warranty


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> Oh and cascade said it appears to be a field mull and not factory mull...so no warranty


 People that frame houses install windows where I live. You might do better with an experienced handy man by the hour. 
Either way you need to know exactly what you want and how to do it so you can be the dictator on the job. Not sure you can get that with a window company.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

That is what I wanted to do, but am a little afraid of the "quality" of the general contractors here. I am medically retired from the force, with a spinal injury, so I likely could not take on a project like this. 



The issue is I had some out this past year to repair the trim and I could tell they did not know what they were talking about. The areas "best" rated told me I should caulk the gaps between my hardie board siding (which I knew would void the warranty). The one we landed on sent a bunch of kids to do the work and they installed the trim touching the lower drip cap and caulked it to the cap...so I ended up doing it myself.


Do think something like this should cost under $1,000 if there is no rot? I am definitely set on lowering the sill and having a "fixed" sill between the windows. 



Another dumb question...can I use the same windows if I am doing that? or will there be no top fin on the window, and bottom fin on the arch, once the mullion is removed?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> That is what I wanted to do, but am a little afraid of the "quality" of the general contractors here. I am medically retired from the force, with a spinal injury, so I likely could not take on a project like this.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Yes the flange will be missing on both, you might be able to make them out of the H channel, there is a punch used for siding that makes a slot for the nails and stick it to the window with silicone and #6 1/2" stainless screws.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Just had a contractor out, quoted $1,500-$2,000 (including subcontracts). I will be responsible for drywalling and painting. He said there was no way to install the windows separately without ordering new windows (adds $950...priced it beforehand)....so nearly $3,000. This really blows.



He also said he saw that the windows were mulled together with latex caulk rather than silicone...seems about right for this home builder FML...


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Spent the day calling contractors, none besides the one above will even touch a window (only frame it), but at least they are upfront about it. I feel $2,000 is absolutely ridiculous for removing/altering/installing a single window...anyways paying $75 for a window specialist to come out on Wednesday for an estimate.


They are recommending we just re-mull the window. I do not feel good about that, but I guess I have ran out of options...I so wish it was just a flashing issue...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> Spent the day calling contractors, none besides the one above will even touch a window (only frame it), but at least they are upfront about it. I feel $2,000 is absolutely ridiculous for removing/altering/installing a single window...anyways paying $75 for a window specialist to come out on Wednesday for an estimate.
> 
> 
> They are recommending we just re-mull the window. I do not feel good about that, but I guess I have ran out of options...I so wish it was just a flashing issue...


 I would run an add for a handy man with window installation experience and see what BS they come with.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Do you think that is 2 windows with just a vinyl H shape holding them together?
> We usually get these as 2 windows 3 or 4 1/2 inches apart.



Yes.



If you pull that H-mullion off, the windows are effectively just sitting on top of each other in this case.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Windows on Wash said:


> If you pull that H-mullion off, the windows are effectively just sitting on top of each other in this case.



Can I ask what your opinion on how to proceed is? If they pull the window out, would they be able to re-mull it on site? Would that be my best option? 

Also Cascade on the phone said it appeared to be field-mulled and not covered by their warranty, but in an email said they could send someone to investigate it if I choose. 

If the warranty specialist says it is a field mull, I would be responsible to pay for a trip charge, but if it was a factory mull, there would be no trip charge and they would repair it under the warranty. Does is appear to be field mulled?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> Can I ask what your opinion on how to proceed is? If they pull the window out, would they be able to re-mull it on site? Would that be my best option?
> 
> Also Cascade on the phone said it appeared to be field-mulled and not covered by their warranty, but in an email said they could send someone to investigate it if I choose.
> 
> If the warranty specialist says it is a field mull, I would be responsible to pay for a trip charge, but if it was a factory mull, there would be no trip charge and they would repair it under the warranty. Does is appear to be field mulled?


 I would bet if you ordered that window from them it would come in 3 pieces and they know it was put together in the field.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

IrishSwede said:


> Can I ask what your opinion on how to proceed is? If they pull the window out, would they be able to re-mull it on site? Would that be my best option?
> 
> Also Cascade on the phone said it appeared to be field-mulled and not covered by their warranty, but in an email said they could send someone to investigate it if I choose.
> 
> If the warranty specialist says it is a field mull, I would be responsible to pay for a trip charge, but if it was a factory mull, there would be no trip charge and they would repair it under the warranty. Does is appear to be field mulled?


I'm following this thread , trying to learn something (I hope WoW hangs around !) , but what the heck is a "field mull" ? Are they saying your builder _ALTERED_ the window ?

Builders (at least in _my_ area order the windows for a house as a package deal . Not saying they might not alter some house detail , but _field fabricate_ a twin window with an arch ???


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## Shiftyshift (Sep 5, 2018)

I have had leaking windows for years. I have had the house re-sided (Hardi plank) and trim replaced. The windows also have mullions, but vertical. I don't think those are leaking but possibly it is how the windows are put together (3 with solid pane in the middle). My question is what are the best windows for lots of rain with high wind? I didn't see this discussed in this thread. I will probably have to spend big bucks replacing all the windows but it isn't worth it if it isn't the right windows. Every winter I tape up the window and have the sheetrock removed on the inside. Even with that I'm still getting some water inside. It is a nightmare that won't end.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

dd57chevy said:


> I'm following this thread , trying to learn something (I hope WoW hangs around !) , but what the heck is a "field mull" ? Are they saying your builder _ALTERED_ the window ?
> 
> Builders (at least in _my_ area order the windows for a house as a package deal . Not saying they might not alter some house detail , but _field fabricate_ a twin window with an arch ???


 Two windows come separately and they put them together with an H shaped mullion between them.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Shiftyshift said:


> I have had leaking windows for years. I have had the house re-sided (Hardi plank) and trim replaced. The windows also have mullions, but vertical. I don't think those are leaking but possibly it is how the windows are put together (3 with solid pane in the middle). My question is what are the best windows for lots of rain with high wind? I didn't see this discussed in this thread. I will probably have to spend big bucks replacing all the windows but it isn't worth it if it isn't the right windows. Every winter I tape up the window and have the sheetrock removed on the inside. Even with that I'm still getting some water inside. It is a nightmare that won't end.


 There are two windows, the one that leaks right away and the one that leaks later. When we figure that out we install it in a way that any water is captured and has a path out.


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## Shiftyshift (Sep 5, 2018)

I've gone through all the discussion about water having a way out. The contractor that re-sided the house flashed everything correctly. The conclusion is the windows are bad (started leaking a couple of years after they were installed). If the windows themselves are leaking, then there's no way to fix that. Of course, that assumes all the flashing is correct. One winter plastic was put over the whole window and stapled to the trim. The leaking stopped. But, the plastic was out to the trim.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Shiftyshift said:


> I've gone through all the discussion about water having a way out. The contractor that re-sided the house flashed everything correctly. The conclusion is the windows are bad (started leaking a couple of years after they were installed). If the windows themselves are leaking, then there's no way to fix that. Of course, that assumes all the flashing is correct. One winter plastic was put over the whole window and stapled to the trim. The leaking stopped. But, the plastic was out to the trim.


Can you tell where it is leaking? what style of window is it.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

We just had the window Specialist and Contractor out. He says it could be the mullion, but said where the water entering the mullion is of more concern. Could the water not just be from the sheer amount of rain we get a constant wind that hits that side of the house?



Neal you had mention that flexible drip cap, could that be installed without removing all the siding above (it is shingle siding so I would have to start high and remove down)? The two of them are saying that my only option is removing all the siding on the house, removing the window, installing a sill pan under the window, installing the drip cap/flashing and putting it all back together. The price for all of this.... $5,000-$6,000 and thats not even with a new window (which is about $975).



Shiftyshift I know exactly how you feel, hopefully it is just the windows...it sound like you already did the most expensive part of the repair.


Correct me if I am not wrong, but how can it be anything but the window? Why do they need to remove all the siding from my garage upwards? Could it not all be explained if the mullion was diverting water to the sides?

* I guess what I am asking is if it was coming from above, would I not see rot on the arch trim as well? I removed it this past summer and it was pristine and undamaged and house wrapping behind it had no visible water staining whatsoever.*

*I was also curious as to how I would be able to get a sill pan added under the window? It is currently sitting on the bottom trim?
*


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> Neal you had mention that flexible drip cap, could that be installed without removing all the siding above (it is shingle siding so I would have to start high and remove down)? The two of them are saying that my only option is removing all the siding on the house, removing the window, installing a sill pan under the window, installing the drip cap/flashing and putting it all back together. The price for all of this.... $5,000-$6,000 and thats not even with a new window (which is about $975).
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Curved flashing
https://www.curvedmouldings.com/dripcap.html
the flashing and the flange go behind the house wrap and if the wrap is still good or can be fixed up, I would stay out of the siding. 
The prices you are getting is nuts. I could come and do it cheaper and still think I was over charging.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

I looked at that drip cap and ran it by my contractor friend, his only concern was it may help with above, but at either end he is concerned that it may force water down the sides of the window? I suggested a bead of poly at the end may stop that? He also does not know how we could attach that under the existing siding as it appears the fins would need to be secured under the siding itself. 



The other issue is that the house is wrapped under the current trim so to install that would mean cutting the house wrap away from the top of the sill...he suggested it is better that the house is wrapped fully and not cut it away 4 inches above?


*....or are you suggesting that it be placed on the vinyl of the arch and not above the wood trim? Red line vs Yellow Line in picture?*



Currently the window is sitting directly on the trim, should it be placed on a sill pan? Would a metal shop be able to make one?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IrishSwede said:


> I looked at that drip cap and ran it by my contractor friend, his only concern was it may help with above, but at either end he is concerned that it may force water down the sides of the window? I suggested a bead of poly at the end may stop that? He also does not know how we could attach that under the existing siding as it appears the fins would need to be secured under the siding itself.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 I would forgo the flashing under the siding at the top and just do the one at the window. Tell you friend there is no problem with water coming down the side of the window. The flashing over the square window should go all the way over the outside of the side trim.
It's all about the order you put stuff in. The long board below the window has to be taken off to get to the flange.


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## Shiftyshift (Sep 5, 2018)

Well, what I found is that water goes where you least expect it. The spot where it comes out is no indication of where it came in. I originally had cedar shake siding which leaked horribly. The water would come out at the top of the windows plus other places. I then had that all replaced at extreme expense. After that I'm still having leaking - contractor says it's not his work. The weirdest thing was that I stopped the leaking at the upstairs window last winter by taping it up but during a really bad storm I had water come out at the top of slider on the first floor below that window. The rain doesn't even hit the slider anymore because I had small roofs installed over the sliders. I haven't figured out where that water came from. If that happens again (I'm sure it will) I'm going to pull of the sheetrock while it's happening if possible.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

For the friend worried about the water. 
You put a flashing over the window and the wood between the windows above the flashing then when you do the side trim which stops right at the bottom of the curve you put a small flashing above each side. So the curved flashing goes over that so the water gets kicked out an away.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> I would forgo the flashing under the siding at the top and just do the one at the window. Tell you friend there is no problem with water coming down the side of the window. The flashing over the square window should go all the way over the outside of the side trim.
> It's all about the order you put stuff in. The long board below the window has to be taken off to get to the flange.


 Water can take quite a trip before it finds a place to enter. 
I have found a leak 8 ft to the side and a little above a window, the water was running sideways in the seam of the sheeting. 
I have repaired lots of windows after the window people do a terrible job when they sell new windows to a home owner.


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## Nvragn (Dec 28, 2018)

I worked in Facilities at a college and water intrusion was always a big problem with new buildings and often times very difficult to find. Usually we would soak the area with a hose and work our way up to at least get an idea as to the source. 

See if the manufacturer of the window can be of help. I know that often times for us the actual manufacturer would see the same mistake made over and over by contractors. I think the top will have to be opened up and inspected. But start with the window manufacturer.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If they are going to pull the window as part of the fix, there is no reason to put that window back in. 



Pull the trim, put in a new window that is mulled with a zero mullion clip, go new construction if you pull the 1x4 trim, flash it, put in a drip cap, re-trim, and never worry about it again. 



The mullion is leaking along with the fact that the window weepers are weeping INTO the mullion. Nothing about that is correct, right, sustainable, etc. 



It was going to fail from the start. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but that thing was going to leak at some point unless you live in the desert.


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Thankfully the manufacturer is sending someone out to investigate the issue, they will not approve the warranty until they come out in a couple weeks. It seems worth the trip charge at this point.



The manufacturer was quite helpful and did advise me that on arch windows they DO NOT recommend drip caps (said they see more issue from the use of drip caps than not), they absolutely recommend them on any flat surface however. They recommend flashing tape behind the trim and around the window and a clear channel down the inside of the window for water that does get above the arch to travel after hitting the flashing tape (they said not to butt the tape directly to the window, leave a channel).


My issue is the builder installed the drip cap on my belly band on top of the wrap and butted it up to the window but did nothing to seal the end...so water would travel down the drip and rot my trim boards at either end (can see in the pics), I put a bead of silicone at either end, but think I will try Neals method and add a damn as well.



I am going to rent some scaffolding and see if the wrap behind the top trim is stained, if not then I know it is from the install of the window. Cascade did say that my type of mullion are incredibly prone to failure, something like 1 in 10 he said are damaged even before install (from delivery).


*I have exhausted my pool of decent GC's and Handymen, they all want to charge about $2,500 - $5,000 and all I have asked for that price is:*
*1. Remove siding (from the window and above, and siding the borders the window)*
*2. Inspect the house wrap for seams or leaks
*
*3. I will pre-drill and paint the new siding, they just need to install it.*
*4. Remove and properly install the window with a sill pan under it - if possible? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Jamsill-Guard-Sill-Pan-Flashing-4-5625-in-x-78-in-Plastic-Step-Flashing/1000164387
*
*5. Replace the trim around the window*

*Does that not seem excessive? Does what I am asking sound good?*


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## IrishSwede (Jan 5, 2019)

Windows on Wash said:


> If they are going to pull the window as part of the fix, there is no reason to put that window back in.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Can I request that from the manufacturer? Or are they going to replace it with the exact same window as I currently have? The Warranty Representative even admitted on the phone that the mullion design I have is VERY prone to failure/issues.
I know they said the drip cap above the arch can cause issues, but if I had it ready could I insist they install it?


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