# Drip Edge/Shingle Overhang Issue



## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

Hello Everyone,

The shingles on my roof don't extend over the drip edge and water is running between the fascia and the gutter. Today I bought a 10' piece of 3"x3" 'L' shaped drip edge and I cut notches around the gutter hangers and slipped it over the existing drip edge and inside the gutter. It looks pretty good. I only bought one piece to see how it would work. It fit up and in rather nicely and I thought I'd put a few dollops of clear adhesive between the shingles and the drip edge (no nails). Is this a viable fix?


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

It's a hip roof - 32'x34' rectangle, no valleys. I will post a pic tomorrow.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

"The shingles on my roof don't extend over the drip edge and water is running between the fascia and the [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]gutter[/COLOR][/COLOR]."

I don't understand.I understand how the shingles don't run over the drip edge which was a bad roofing job but the drip edge should still extend over the fascia?
Got a picture?


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

The gutters are installed on top of the drip edge. The shingles don't overhang the drip edge. Water wicks from the lowest edge of the shingle, under the drip edge and runs between the gutter and the fascia. I will post pics tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

That's just wrong.No other way to put it.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I'm thinking you could still have water wick back up and run over your 3" flashing. especially on a slope of 4/12 or less.

Minimum would be to use roofing tar in a tube (black jack or the like and tar the metal to the underside of the shingles. near the top edge of the metal.


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

I've attach a couple pictures of the edge of the roof. I would like to nail on the new piece of drip, but I can't seem to lift the shingles enough to swing a hammer. I will use the black tar as suggested. I thought of using a couple of siding nails on through the face of the new drip edge, but that's probably a bad idea. My roof is a 6:12 pitch - I think.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

RustyRealtor said:


> The gutters are installed on top of the drip edge. The shingles don't overhang the drip edge. Water wicks from the lowest edge of the shingle, under the drip edge and runs between the gutter and the fascia. I will post pics tomorrow. Thanks for the reply.



Looks to me like your drip edge is ok. The shingles do overhang the drip edge. It is not likely you have water running behind the drip edge. But, your gutter is hung too high and on the drip edge as you stated. That is the problem. 

You could spend your time and $ making an unorthodox repair that may or may not work, or your use your time to lower the gutter.


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## hotrod351 (Jun 15, 2012)

the gutter outfit just did a lazy lousy job, it should of gone under the drip edge metal, water runs down hill, but that would of required some work, they just did a slam bam quicky job.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

To ansewer your question what you did is fine.


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

Thanks for the replies.

If I lower the gutter it will be below the drip edge. In order to get the gutter behind the drip edge, I would have to raise the gutter. The water is running down the drip edge and behind the gutter. I didn't mean to imply that water was running behind the drip edge. I'm waiting for another rain (should be any minute now) to see if my unorthodox repair will do anything to help. At the moment, my biggest issues are water issues. It just won't stop raining here in Nashville.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The gutter should have been installed up under the drip edge, not below it or over it.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Your notch may be cut a little high and rain may (or may not) get through there. notch it so it just comes above the hanger.


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

Okay. I am going to buy more drip edge. I can't seem to find it in brown. I will pay closer attention to my cutouts. Thanks again for the replies.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

joecaption said:


> The gutter should have been installed up under the drip edge, not below it or over it.



Joe - this comment has me perplexed. The way I understand the roof, drip edge gutter combination is that water should come off the roof shingle edge and ideally run directly into the trough. If any water does wick back it will run onto the drip edge face and be slung outward by the bottom kicker. If the gutter is hung too high, the water doesn't sling out far enough to land in the trough, and thus we have water running behind the gutter. In this case the the OP's drip edge and gutter back are bent so it may not function properly anyway. 

As a matter of new install, the seamless gutter I have been using has a 1/4" rolled in edge on the back, with a bracket that catches the lip and fastens with a screw right at the top of the trough. It would be impossible to install this under an existing drip edge without destroying it. It would certainly break the seal between the lower drip edge and the wrapped fascia. We would also have the drip edge ends to deal with. I normally would run the trough 2" past the roof edge. If the gutter were high, would need to cut the drip at the corner to allow the trough up in there. And there is also the slope issue keeping it all under the drip edge with enough slop to drain the water. 

When installed low if there still is a problem I could add in a flat alum flash tucked under the drip and over the gutter back wall.



Are you using a different style gutter and bracket?


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

> When installed low if there still is a problem I could add in a flat alum flash tucked under the drip and over the gutter back wall.


Maybe I don't need drip edge, afterall. Maybe I can tuck flat aluminum flashing like Yodaman suggests.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

RustyRealtor said:


> Maybe I don't need drip edge, afterall. Maybe I can tuck flat aluminum flashing like Yodaman suggests.



Rusty, this only works when the gutter is low. In your case with the gutter back on the surface of the drip edge it may not be possible. It would depend on weather you could pull the drip edge up enough to get it up and over the back edge of the trough. If you do this don't nail it thru the face, use adhesive


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## RustyRealtor (Apr 13, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, Yodaman. I was just up there looking (in the rain) and I don't think I'll be able to fit the flat sheet up there. I will be forced to use the 3"x3" drip edge. The problem is that I can only find it unpainted or silver, which doesn't match my roof and it really stands out.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

RustyRealtor said:


> Thanks for the reply, Yodaman. I was just up there looking (in the rain) and I don't think I'll be able to fit the flat sheet up there. I will be forced to use the 3"x3" drip edge. The problem is that I can only find it unpainted or silver, which doesn't match my roof and it really stands out.



re-read posts 8 & 15, if the gutter is lowered and the kicker at the bottom of your drip edge is functioning properly you may not need any additional flashing, and if it turns out that you do you can buy a small roll of brown coil stock to color match (IMHO of course)


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## rtrobbie (Aug 6, 2021)

RustyRealtor said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> The shingles on my roof don't extend over the drip edge and water is running between the fascia and the gutter. Today I bought a 10' piece of 3"x3" 'L' shaped drip edge and I cut notches around the gutter hangers and slipped it over the existing drip edge and inside the gutter. It looks pretty good. I only bought one piece to see how it would work. It fit up and in rather nicely and I thought I'd put a few dollops of clear adhesive between the shingles and the drip edge (no nails). Is this a viable fix?


The wrong drip edge was used from what I know.


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