# Window in Bathroom Shower: MOLD



## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

Greetings: I am one of those fortunate enough to live in a community that requires a window in bathrooms. 

I have a vinyl replacement window right in the middle of a tiled wall in the bathrooms shower. Needless to say this gets wet all the time. (I do have an exhaust fan) I have caulked the heck out of it and painted it with enamel but there is mold forming as the area stays wet and even worse the water pools on the sill and does not drain off. (The sill tilts back towards the window).

Since the wndow must stay, what can I do to treat/paint, etc. this area? I need to remove the existing black mold forming on the windows inside sill but also need a paint that will seal and not be subject to mold.

Have any of you dealt with this kind of window installation/mold issue successfully?

Thanks,

Tom


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

bleach will remove the mold from vinyl, and wiping the excess water after each shower will help, but you need to redo the sill so it tips IN, not out, pooling water will just add to the problem and may even seep under the window and rot wood.. a photo might help us here....

DM


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*Removing Mold from painted wood*

Will the bleach remove mold from the painted sill?

Is there any way to paint that sill with any special paint that will resist the mold?

Tnx


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Will the bleach remove mold from the painted sill? yes, it should do fine, however if not kept dry, it will keep coming back. the tip of the sill concerns me the most as it will continue as long as this is not fixed, or at the very least towel-dried every time. there may be/probably is paint that is mold resistant, however, if not kept dry........ well, you know.

DM


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*Marine Paint??*

Is there any kind of expoxy or marine paint that might work here? I have it painted with an enamel.

Also since the sill tilts back towards the window so the water pools against the window frame and not so the water will drain, is there a way for me to put some kind of spackle/filler to build that up so the water will drain? I can't pull the window, sill and tile apart so is there another way to fill in the sill to raise it so I can get it to drain?

TNx,

Tom


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

tom, if it were me, i'd go to my scrap pile of vinyl siding and cut a piece to cover the sill, then build it up to the right angle with scrap wood or something then caulk with silicone caulk and paint. you need to keep the water running off the sill into the tub, not pooling. when we used silicone anti-mold caulk in our tub, it still molded over time, so i'm not too sure if mold resistant paint will help. maybe a photo would help. other options are needed here guys!

DM


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

I will get a photo this afternoon. 

Since this is in a shower and the window is at body level, would the siding or cladding be a cut hazard? Also is there a way to build the sill up with a solid material like a tile cement or some solid material that would adhere to the wood? 

Tom


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

As for the sill - I would have a piece of solid surface countertop cut to fit, install it with thinset (same as tile). The thinset will be thick enough to allow you to pitch it slightly away. There are also faux marble thresholds that could work for this. If you have a tile sill remove that first. Then caulk well. As for pait - There are anti-mold additives for paint. i cant speak to their effectiveness. Mold needs two thiings to thrive. Moisture and something to feed on. The glossyer the paint the harder it will be for mold to grow and the easier to clean.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

perhaps you could use 4" square ceramic tiles if the marble is hard to find/work with? they have the curved edge pieces that could be along the outside to be scratchsafe.....build the thinset to correct angle, grout tile, etc. just a thought.

DM


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

SO, I might tile that sill, build it up underneath to pitch it, and then grout the #$%& out of it... is there any grout additive to stop mold.

tb


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Just use caulk (tile guys are cringing). There is mold resistant caulk. The advantage of one piece is no grout lines. Regardless you always caulk transitions (like floor to wall). So, even if you did tile with 4" tiles you would only have a few grout lines anyway depending on window size.

Hey - Found a link for ya
*http://www.siltech-inc.com/window_sills.htm

Good luck
*


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*Photos*

I hope these are clear enough. The sill is only about 3-4in. 

I can take more if that will help.

Tom


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Yes - very clear - I would definitely replace the sill with a one piece plastic sill. You can get it in white (NO PAINT). While you are at it replace all the window trim with the same material. You will still have caulk to deal with but the PVC trim will hold up well.


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*Acrylic Sill Link*

Brik: That is interesting stuff. 

Is it a plastic or ..? SO basically I would put this on top of the existing wood sill, cover it and then caulk it in. Does it need to be cemented/pasted also? Does this also mean it deesn't need painting?

TX,

Tom


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*Removing existing trim*

Will removing the existing trim be an issue? Will it wreck the wall/tiles ?

DO I have to remove the existing sill and all the trim? Does the window need to come out or can I get the trim and the sill out without taking the wall down? 

Is this a genral handyman job or should I get somebody more "skilled?"

I am a weekend warrior and this is in a tenant's unit.. so it will have to be fast and done right the first time.

Tom


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Yes, its plastic - PVC is one material. (not necessarily at the link I gave you). No painting. you will have to remove all the trim (sill, sides, top). It shouldn't mess up the tile. You then caulk where the new trim meets the tile and where it meets the window. It would be the same skills as finishing window trim in wood. Same tools too. 
Try this google search
http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=&=&q=PVC+Trim&btnG=Google+Search

Once all is removed - sill (aka stool) goes in first, then sides then top. You do not have an apron which goes last.

check these links for DIY instructions
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,218130,00.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20046338,00.html
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/installwindowtrim


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

*PVC Trim*

Is this stuff typically avaialable at a HOme Depot or Lowes?

Also does this stuff actually replace the wood or go over it?

If it replaces the wood, does it come in the same guage as the wood?

Thanks for this teriffic solution.

BTW, this looks like a job for a carpenter. (?)

Tom


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

replacing the sill will do no good tom, it will still be tipped the wrong way.... water will still pool and you'll have to deal with it still. however, it looks like a vinyl window in a wooden frame? in a SHOWER? who wrote THAT one? lol anyways....i still think a scrap of vinyl siding would do the trick, raised to the right tilt with thinset and cut out to fit in the zigzag shape. tiles would be difficult to do with the sill jutting out. if you go with the sill replacement, remember you'll have to cut the jambs to set the tilt of the sill. also, that looks like silicone caulking, this will have to be removed as best as possible for any adhesion. a friend of mine has one in his shower we'd like to wall over and put in a shower stall instead of the tub, giving them a bit more room in that tiny bath.
hope this helps!

DM


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Tom - I do not know if you can get the PVC at home depot or lowes. May be worth a look. Yes, it comes in standard sizes. Yes, a carpenter will have the skills. There is also a glue you can use where two pieces meet to seal it w/o caulk. It does NOT wrap the wood, it replaces it. When installing any carpenter will be able to do it in such a way that is is pitched into the shower and not toward the window. I would NOT wrap the wood with anything, thats asking for trouble IMO.


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Hey - Another idea - Rip out he window and put in glass block, no trim at all. Venting styles are available. (More involved and much more costly)


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

i LOVE brik's idea of glass block, however, there too might be problems.... if your community requires a window, they may not allow glass block, also, they only have so many sizes to work with, so you'd have to measure the area and include grout thicknesses to see if and how many blocks will fit. if this is a rental, my original idea is still the cheapest and most effective. (vinyl siding scrap) heh, tileset and a pair of scissors to cut it. silicone caulk to glue it down and seal edges. it'd look ok and push the water away. D4 would even give you a 'lip' at the edge to go over the sill. this is by no means permanent because of the wood involved, but it'd get you by until a better solution comes along.

DM


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

Thanks everyone for the ideas. I like the idea of the PVC. I don't want to keep revisiting the same issue and since the bath is a major selling point for the unit, I need it to look as good as possible. (OF course, I assume I could just repaint it when the tenant complains or moves out. But this unit is at a good price point so I need it to look good to get my rent.

SO I assume I need acrylic/PVC replacements for the wood in the same sizes to replace the wood in there now and also a competent carpenter.

Anybody know a competent carpenter in my neighboorhood???

Tom


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Try piece of Aztec . remove the old sill by driving the nails down through the sill with a punch. Wiggle the sill free after you removed all the caulk. trace the old sill to the new and cut it and router the edge to what ever profile you chose Full round half round what ever. take a couple of paint sticks and lay them on the rough sill so to pitch it back to the tub. This material will not rot and can be painted. Or just put up another shower pole and curtain, slide it closed when your showering and open it when your done. when it gets moldy just replace it for $8.00.


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

YOu know, I tried that on another unit and the curtain billows out when the shower runs and also the moisture gets in there anyway. Good idea. Tried it.

:furious:


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

roztom said:


> YOu know, I tried that on another unit and the curtain billows out when the shower runs and also the moisture gets in there anyway. Good idea. Tried it.
> 
> :furious:


Aim the shower head at the curtain, if the moisture gets behind there you have a hell of a moisture problem. try leaving the upper sash open about an inch and a half. until the moisture disappears. My kids like taking steam showers, GEEEEE. My bath is all bead board walls and ceiling except shower area, the good thing I used Sherman Williams exterior porch paint. No mold anywhere, and the walls are wet from the steam from the shower.


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## Roztom1 (Oct 6, 2007)

YOu used exterior porch paint on the bathroom walls? I guess I need to make a pilgrimage to my local paint store and see what they can whip up for me...

BTW, I just spoke to a window/door guy who just put in a sliding glass door for me and when I told him what I wanted to do he said he wouldn't touch it... (No guts/no glory). Not exactly encouraging.

I guess I will do a little research for a carpenter and see if this will cost less than just ripping the wall out or maybe forgetting about it and just keep repainting the thing. If at a minimum I could tilt the stool, that might help but moisutre is moisture.

That mold in the photos is from 4 months of showers and there is an exhaust fan in the shower..

tb


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