# Compound over exposed cardboard/gypsum interior?



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I guess you could clean up the surface as best you can and trim the edges where the paper got tugged. Then you can try to get in the space with a wide drywall knife and lay down and finish and layer of mud to get you by (primed and painted for now I presume?) until you do your renovation. 

I think you will find it hard to get a nice, flat surface on the backsplash with only the clearance you have between the countertop and cabinet bottom. I also think you will find it will take you as long or longer to try and repair this situation is it will to just pull the old backing out and cutting and fitting a new piece.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Yow, you have pretty-well gone way too far with your scraping. Your best-bet is to remove that damaged wallboard and replace it. Replacing it isn't a very big deal and you will be time and money ahead.


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

you could take some kills and paint it then when it dries good scrape it again to get the frizies off , then you can do a tight skim coat with easy sand durabond , then tape the real deep goughes next to the box , then put another tight coat of easy sand ontop of that , then a tight coat of topping or two . just use a knife or trowel put it on thin coats. that would be less of a build up than having seams to cover with new drywall . this way you only have to tape the goughes 4 inches by 12 about , versus having to tape the edges if you were you replaced the whole piece . you dont have to tape where the paper ripped off the brown areas .


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

Thanks for all the advice!

My plan is to replace the drywall, fresh new start I guess.

Is there anything I should be aware of when I rip out drywall on an exterior wall, around a window, or is it pretty much the same as interior walls? If there is no insulation or if the insulation is in bad shape, I can just add some insulation batts?

Also, if I plan on doing a tile backsplash, the drywall/taping/joint compound doesn't have to be 100% flat and even, correct? I just mean a tiny tiny bit uneven around the joints. I can just spread a little more thinset for the tile right?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Also, if I plan on doing a tile backsplash, the drywall/taping/joint compound doesn't have to be 100% flat and even, correct? I just mean a tiny tiny bit uneven around the joints. I can just spread a little more thinset for the tile right?


Ah-h-h-h no, I wouldn't. The thinset may or may not make up for a bulge in the joint compound. In fact using thinset over joint compound isn't the best idea. They are not compatible and the thinset won't want to bond that well to the joint compound.

You could just install the seam tape and then fill the seam-joints with the thinset as you install the tile. No humps that way.

You will use a notched trowel to apply the thinset and heaping thinset isn't advisable. Let the trowel do what it is suppose to do and that is gauge the thickness of the thinset for you.


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

So use thinset instead of joint compound like I would normally do. Is it just not as good, or will it fail if I thinset/tile over joint compound? I already replaced drywall and used joint compound on the other wall in the kitchen


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

The wall next to the one shown in the picture has 2 sheets plus two patches, all mudded with drywall compound. MOST of this surface will be tiled with a ceramic tile backplash when the cabinets and countertops come in and are installed.

I will be working on the house the next 2 days. 

1. Should I tear out this drywall and hang new drywall? 

2. Should I tape with fibatape and mud the joints with thinset? If so, is it ok to use pre-mixed?

3. Or should I just leave the joints without any mud, since it will be covered by cabinets or be tiled?

Thanks!


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

New drywall and yes, you should tape the joints. I would use regular paper tape and pre-mixed compound if you want. Pre-mixed is just going to take longer to dry. Depends on what you hope to finish for sure I guess.


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

You mean use pre-mixed thinset? Or drywall compound? The reason I want to rip out the drywall I already hung is because people were saying and also the research I've done now says that tiling/thin-set over drywall compound is not good.

The reason I was going to go with fibatape i because I am not an expert, and the fibatape is significantly easier for me to do than the traditional non sticky tape.

Thanks!


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

This beginning to get out of hand.

You cannot use paper tape under thinset. The only tape recommended for under thinset and tile projects is the alkali-resistant mesh tape, it has sticky on one side. It doesn't require anyone to be an expert.

The premixed thinset has proven to be problematic in wet areas, in dry area applications I suppose it would work. I wouldn't touch the stuff or use it in either area myself.

Thinset DOES NOT like gypsum joint compound.

Thinset DOES NOT like gypsum joint compound. (Did I say that already?)

The cabinets don't care if there is tape behind them or not but I think the Fire Marshal does care.:furious:

I'll tell ya what....
Go buy some liquid waterproofing and use it over the already installed joint compound. Liquid waterproofing doesn't like gypsum joint compound either but in a dry area it should stay put.


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

Bud Cline said:


> This beginning to get out of hand.
> 
> You cannot use paper tape under thinset. The only tape recommended for under thinset and tile projects is the alkali-resistant mesh tape, it has sticky on one side. It doesn't require anyone to be an expert.
> 
> ...



Thanks!

So to be 100% clear, it's ok to do:

Rip down existing drywall with all the joint compound in the areas to be tiled. Put new drywall up. Use alkali resistant mesh tape designed for cement board (fibatape makes it) to tape the joints. Use thinset for the joints (pre-mixed not good in wet areas). Or can I just tape the joints only with no mudding over it?

OR

Cover the area to be tiled with liquid waterproofing, then tile over as normal?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I am now confused beyond repair.

Just use liquid waterproofing over everthing everywhere.:yes:


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

I just finished putting up new drywall, here it is:










(I finished the piece underneath the window today)


I just want to be sure: 

Since I am doing a tile backsplash, I should use alkali resistive mesh tape to tape the joints and then use thin-set for the joints?

If so, should I do this for all the joints even under where the cabinets will be going? Or use drywall compound for those areas?

What kind of of thin-set for the joints, modified or un-modified? How about when I do the tile backsplash?

Thanks!


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## 6fthook (Dec 20, 2010)

bump.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I think your questions have already been answered in earlier comments by more than one person. People begin to lose interest when you continue to rehash techniques that have already been explained. This is why your thread has gone dormant.:yes: Speaking for myself I don't intend to re-read a thread over and over and over again. Most of us regulars here visit many threads in a short time and frankly they begin to run together. If someone doesn't acknowledge the respones we offer and move on then the thread becomes burdensome and we lose interest. You may be way over thinking this whole project. Let's get going and Get-R-Done.:thumbsup:


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