# Remove center stile from upper kitchen cabinet



## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

I've removed the cabinet doors from an upper kitchen cabinet and would like to remove the center stile so I can place a small microwave inside. I plan to leave the doors off, sand, and touch up the wood finish inside the cabinet. I'm not sure how to remove the stile without damaging the frame, and welcome tips on the proper technique & type of saw to use. Are stiles generally just glued into place, as I do not see any evidence of a screw or nail? The cabinet measures 30" x 30". Should I also add a brace under the cabinet? If so, should it be placed from side to side or front to back? Will Liquid Nails work, or should I screw the brace into place? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!!


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## GBrackins (Apr 26, 2012)

Welcome to the Forum!

you may get more assistance if you post a photo or two with the doors off.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-attach-photo-post-12559/


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Here's a photo...hope this works!!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Ideally I would remove that cabinet entirely and install a shorter one at the top with an under the counter microwave under it.
Reasons being, then there's a place to hide the outlet for the microwave.
There's not going to be any exposed repaired area left exposed at the top and bottom where the stile was.
There would not be an unusable space at the top of the cabinet.


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## Live_Oak (Aug 22, 2013)

Microwave shelves from cabinet lines usually have a much deeper shelf first of all, because most countertop microwaves are at least 15"-18" deep.. Second, they are built more robustly. Looking at your cabinet picture, I can't tell much more than it has plastic shelf clips, which wouldn't give me confidence on the robustness of the build quality. Third, they are required to be placed between two cabinets or a cabinet and to the floor end panel for the support needed. It does appear that the cabinet is placed between a cabinet and wall, but is it actually _attached_ to both?

With that wide of a cabinet, removing the center stile could compromise it's ability to support the contents. And then wanting to put a heavy MW in it? I'd rethink the plan. Perhaps since you are removing the doors, the cabinet can be remade into a shorter cabinet to have a MW with a hanging kit installed. Perhaps you have a 24" deep cabinet elsewhere, like a base cabinet or pantry or oven cabinet, that could be modified to fit a MW. Perhaps you might do an over the range microwave.


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## kimberland30 (Jan 22, 2008)

Microwaves aren't that heavy. Granted, your cabinet is wider than ours but my dad did the same thing to hide the microwave. Back when my parents owned our house their microwave was huge and _heavy_. The shelf it all sits on is only 3/4" and it's supported by wood strips around the perimeter of the shelf on the underside. He ran another outlet in the cabinet to hide the wires. (sorry about the mess, we never use our microwave and the shelf paper is a hot mess). Also, this cabinet goes to the floor and is anchored to the wall behind it and the upper cabinet next to it. The other side is exposed.

(image removed) 

I'm no expert but I would try to cut out the center bar and support the shelf somehow (I'm assuming you are going to put the microwave on the very bottom shelf) by running strips of wood front to back under the cabinet itself. If it doesn't work, you can always try what the others have suggested.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

You'll have a tough time fitting a microwave in there, most are deeper than that cabinet appears to be. 

Strips front-to-back under the cabinet? That's not going to do much. Better to make use of some angle iron or other sort of shelf bracket to support the added weight. Since it's just drywall below then it wouldn't be much trouble to patch that to hide them. That or do the same thing from above and hang an over-the-range sort of model from it. 

What you DO NOT want to do is not have a plan to support it. Otherwise when the added weight causes it to fail you'd probably have the whole row of cabinets come down together.

From the look of it, the tricky part is going to be hiding what looks like the front edge of the bottom shelf. Normally hidden by the doors? Just removing the center piece wouldn't be "too hard" perhaps by using an oscillating saw. But if appearance is really important then I'd be inclined to hire someone known to do good kitchen cabinet work. Because matching up the stain and finish along the top where you'd remove the center piece would be a challenge.

Are there any indicators of a brand or manufacturer on the cabinets? Look on the sides/bottom/backs of any drawers. Because if you know the vendor you might be able to get new material from them to create new trim that looked similar. Or at least a touch-up kit.


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

To all who responded...thank you, sincerely! Your comments confirmed my fear of embarking on a disaster. I really love your suggestions, but, in this case...I suppose I'm stuck with my countertop mircowave. My galley-kitchen is full to the brim; above the stove is not an option (see below); and mounting it below the existing wall cabinets does not provide much needed counterspace. 
Suppose my next post must deal with the elephant in the room...a whopping 27" tall 1970's Avocado Green range hood that is in great shape and excellent working condition. I love the style of it....but yikes, it is Avacado (I call it Palm Green, lol). I've considered painting it Stainless Steel but would have to do so while it's hanging on the wall, I'm just not that talented, or strong enough, to remove it myself--- it's huge! Has anyone painted a range hood while it's hanging on the wall? Any suggestions?
So, for now, I suppose I'm stuck in the '70s and will "retro-out" the rest of the kitchen! Thanks again for your response!


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Lose the range hood and replace it with an over-the-range microwave. In our old house, before we tore it down, we had a galley kitchen. And as much as I despise most over-the-range models there's really no better solution most of the time. My two peeves with them are fan noise level and being too close to the range top (I'm tall). The latter is solvable by just mounting it a bit higher, provided there aren't cabinet problems (which is sounds like you wouldn't have). The noise level, well, that can't really be helped. It's one of those "live with it" choices you're forced to make as a trade-off due to the lack of space. 

I'd much rather go with replacing the hood versus trying to hack up the cabinetry.


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## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

I just put an OTR 'wave in a rent house I'm getting ready to sell. It was a GE floor model. Fan's not too noisy, especially on low. But if you do that, OP, be aware you'll probably need to out it on its own 20 amp circuit.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Yeah, the latest GE units are pretty friendly to use as well. That's what I put in for the last 7 months we had the place, the old Sharp (circa 1995) crapped out just as we scheduled the demolition for later that Fall. Bugged the heck out of me to have to purchase one just for that short of a time. But it was also a floor model, from Home Depot. At least I got most of my money back reselling it to a neighbor for use in their cabin.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Hi DIY gal...I'm a DIY gal myself with a galley kitchen 
as well. Being a woman I can tell you unequivocally 'where
there is a will, there is a way; and we never take no for an answer. :yes:

Firstly, how heavy is that microwave and how
big is it? (what are all the measurements?)
Once you cut out that stile, I see no reason 
you can't put it in the cab unless it very heavy and deep. 
You'll have to put more screws in the inside top of
the cab, as well as the backer strip along the inside top.
Then possibly a pair of brackets underneath the cabs.
The door you removed can be cut down and remade to fit
the top portion of the microwave...or jump make an
open shelf above it...

Having said all that, I've seen small inexpensive micro's
in the stores...if your current micro is too big, buy a new one,
or put it on your Christmas wish list. Then it may be easier
to incorporate in your cab. I've seen small micro's for under
50.00. 

Is there a lower cab, where you can install the microwave? 
We have a lower cab that we installed three drawers...
the top pull out drawer has our toaster oven in it. I just pull
out the drawer to use it (it is plugged in the back of the drawer.

With a galley kitchen you have to think outside the box. 
We built our own cabs for our kitchen, I incorporated in
the design everything I wanted. Made lots of changes along 
the way, and just kept adding more and more cabs...
Without knowing your kitchen layout, it's hard to see if there
is another route you can take. 

Now for the range hood...Yes, I agree the green has to go.
First take a sanding block and sand the finish. I'm not a painter,
so I hope a painter jumps in here...but I think you may need to
spray on a primer first, then spray your desired color (stainless steel
color) .Rust-oleum makes some nice spray paint. Do a good job
of masking the surrounding area, cover all the cabs with tarp or sheets
and make a make a make -shift top with oak tag to keep he spray
from hitting the ceiling...
It goes without saying, clean the holy heck out of the hood first.
If you care to show more pics of your kitchen, maybe we could come up
with an alternative plan.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

If you're going to sand the hood, I'd take it down and do it somewhere other than in the kitchen. The mess will be a hassle to clean up otherwise. 

That and when you have it down you can more readily just pitch it...


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## kimberland30 (Jan 22, 2008)

DIYGIRL123 said:


> Suppose my next post must deal with the elephant in the room...a whopping 27" tall 1970's Avocado Green range hood that is in great shape and excellent working condition. I love the style of it....but yikes, it is Avacado (I call it Palm Green, lol). I've considered painting it Stainless Steel but would have to do so while it's hanging on the wall, I'm just not that talented, or strong enough, to remove it myself--- it's huge! Has anyone painted a range hood while it's hanging on the wall? Any suggestions? So, for now, I suppose I'm stuck in the '70s and will "retro-out" the rest of the kitchen! Thanks again for your response!


You can paint it while it's still on the wall. Just tape plastic sheets to EVERYTHING around it. The plastic drop cloths are fine for this and they come in a pack of 5 for $5 at the box stores. Just make sure you tape it down tightly around the unit itself. Go with an appliance spray paint since it's formulated for heat. Don't forget to tape over any knobs and openings.

I wish I'd done this when we painted our cabinets. I wanted to take entire hood down to paint it so I disconnected all the wiring for the fan and light...it was a real pain in the butt. Then I waited months for the husband to take it down since it was too heavy for me to lift myself...and in the process we lost a lot of the parts. We ended up just replacing it with a SS model when we got a new stove....4 years later.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

ziploc bags work great for stray parts, just remember to tape them to the item AND put a note in there explaining what they are. I've had a few bags turn up years later without knowing exactly what their contents are...


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

I do agree that the over the stove micro's are great, however, that
may not be in the OP's budget. We often have many 
home improvements that need to be done, so we have to prioritize.

Not only would it be more expensive to purchase an over the stove
micro, then there is the installation. If you're not capable of DIY, 
then the installation and electrical work could be costly.
Also, factor in that the cab above the
stove may need to be cut down and re-made to fit the area. 

Hope the DIY gal comes back so that we can help her achieve her
original goal -- of installing the micro in an existing cabinet.


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## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

I agree...although they are coming down in cost. The last one I bought...a few weeks ago...was a floor model, less than $200. But I do not want to presume what is in her budget.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Yes, they are coming down in price...My first one was a GE purchased
in 1985 with a new kitchen...I think it cost about 700.00. It only lasted
about seven years, and then we bought another GE, I think it was a
about 400.00 to 500.00 not sure.

With my current new kitchen, we purchased a SS Frigidare micro. What a 
beautiful thing it is. The GE had a grill along the front top, that would get
greasy. As much as I wiped it down, we had to unscrew that grill once
a month or so -- to take it down to clean it. 
My new one has the grill on top and it's not really a grill, it has holes
in it so that you just wipe it with a sponge. 
It looks very nice from the front, and I also love the turntable feature. 

The problem with the exhaust fan/micro's is they're often just a smidgen 
too big. Stuff like that drives a detailed oriented person like me crazy. 

We adjusted our kitchen built for many of these little things
that the average person -- viewing something like a kitchen in it's totality,
doesn't notice. I don't mean to sound stuffy, it's just the way I am, always
been that way. The devil is in the details.


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## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

...and I'm confident that those little details are what separate you from so many. I understand the detail thing. One of my faults is that I too many times make perfect the enemy of good enough


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Yes, Royal acres ... pair up a detail oriented person with 
a person that will do something over, and over again until it's perfect, 
and you have a dangerous situation. :whistling2:

I often quip to him, "it's a repair, not a hobby, what's taking so long!?!" 
He replies, "and if it's not perfect, whose the one that's 
gonna constantly complain and whine about it???" ... 
He also says, "he's the only man in America that can work for me! 

Getting back to the micros...notice if they're SS -- the sides are black?
Same thing with the Fridges...most of them the sides are black. 
What's the deal with that?


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## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

I too have noticed that SS trend. A cost cutting move methinks. But so much of merchandising these days involve obsolescence engineering. The engineers design a fine product. Then, the obsolescence engineer changes a bearing to a bushing, weakens supporting structures, etc. 

The company saves $0.30 or a dollar per unit, times a million sold. Big money. The board of directors give themselves a bonus....and five years down the road the consumer has a broken item. The consumer would have delightedly paid an extra $5 to get years of additional use from the product....but short-sightedness, and the scramble for short-term profit abound. 

There ARE still manufacturing concerns that eschew the above...and design for the long term. But the numbers decrease every year. And I guess we get what we pay for, as the race to the bottom continues. But I digress...


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Yes, I agree...why not extend the SS on the side of the micro's
just an inch or so -- so that the black side doesn't show? I understand
that it would be costly on fridge as you would have to do the entire
sides, as not all fridges are snuggled into a cab. 

I planned for that in our build, by making the two cabs flanking
the micro 14" deep, rather than the typical 13" deep for upper
cabs...also took out the 2x4's behind the fridge (framed it out
like a window) and the fridge was able to slide in further to avoid
looking at the black side. ( which would have driven me nuts) 
We also made the cabs above the micro a little shorter, so that 
the micro doesn't hang down lower than the cabs. 

My old GE proline was counter depth, but lasted only a four years. :furious:
This new one was taller and deeper, so we had to also bring out
the side wall a couple inches more (two years ago) to get it 
to look counter depth. 

I also like that the cabs are not straight across...notice the
micro has no greasy grill on top of the door? This must have been
designed by a woman. :yes:


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## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

I LOVE your kitchen. Beautiful cabinets!


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Two Knots said:


> Not only would it be more expensive to purchase an over the stove
> micro, then there is the installation. If you're not capable of DIY,
> then the installation and electrical work could be costly.
> Also, factor in that the cab above the
> ...


If the hood's 27" tall then that's more than enough room for just about any microwave I've ever seen. 

That and since it's got a blower in it there may well already be sufficient wiring present to replace it with a microwave. A point I'd considered before suggesting the possibility. 

A picture of it would certainly help. Both relating to the re-painting of it or the replacement of it with a microwave.

There's different ways to look at things. Sometimes suggestions to go a bit outside the box can help find a better solution. I try not to assume people don't have the skills. Nor what they do or don't have to spend. Because if they learn of a different solution that's often great motivator for learning new skills. Or appreciate when paying a pro to step in help is really worthwhile.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

wkearney99 said:


> If the hood's 27" tall then that's more than enough room for just about any microwave I've ever seen.
> 
> That and since it's got a blower in it there may well already be sufficient wiring present to replace it with a microwave. A point I'd considered before suggesting the possibility.
> 
> ...




Yes, you have a valid point regarding going outside the box to suggest
another way of doing things. Also, being able to help a poster 
with their original question; after all this is why they came
here in the first place.
When a poster asks "how is a style installed" she is obviously
a novice and is seeking help on installing a micro in her existing cabs.
So, try and help with a solution to her problem. 

DIsclaimer...There is nothing wrong with being a novice at home improvements,
that's the way we all started before becoming 'experts' on the internet, isn't it? 


Listen to what people are asking, a suggestion 
for an alternative way of doing things is fine, however, 
first and foremost though, should be to keep in mind that many times a 
poster is posing a particular question, such as DIY gal did for good reason.
I'm sure she has seen above the stove micros, they've been around for thirty years or so.

Now if DIY gal returns, I have another suggestion for her.

Thanks Royalacresrod.


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for your wonderful suggestions! Yes...I'm still here and have tried three times to post a few photos of my little galley kitchen re-do project, I just can not get the photos to post for some reason. I'll try again tomorrow but I thought I should give more info in response to your ideas. 

Yes, I'm a novice with a minimal budget. If I could I would purchase all new cabinets, granite countertops, stainless steel appliances and that over the range microwave! But I can not. I want to make it as nice as possible on a shoestring. That's why I'm doing all the work I can handle on my own.

In reality, the kitchen is coming along nicely compared to what it looked like last month. I removed a drop ceiling which included florescent lighting and I had to patch and sand more than a few big holes in the drywall. I hired an electrician to install recessed lighting and a new light fixture above the sink. And I hired a plumber to install a new faucet and a disposal. Purchased new cabinet hardware and glass inserts for existing upper cabinet doors (and it's not the same glass as the sample, but that's another story):furious:. 

What's left to do is 1- decide if the big Avacado range hood gets painted stainless steel (can't decide on wall color until that decision is made). 2- Try to find a way to get the microwave and possibly the toaster oven off of the countertop without losing much needed cabinet space. 3-Choose a color and either paint or wallpaper the walls.

I would consider that above the range microwave if there were already a cabinet above the range. There is not....just a 27" Avacado range hood that is attached to a 12-1/2" (what I believe is called) soffit that my upper cabinets and range hood are attached to. The old drop ceiling was attached to that soffit. If I just installed the above the range microwave, without adding a new cabinet, the microwave would be way too high for me to reach into it. 

Hopefully, I can post a few pics tomorrow. It's late...thanks again for all of your ideas...goodnight folks!


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Oh, and TwoKnots...I'm in love with your kitchen! Quite jealous, it's beautiful!


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Ugh...still no success at posting those pics! Have to run off to work, will try again when I get off!


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

I am impressed DIYgal with your enthusiasm and willingness to jump in
head first to tackle your galley kitchen. :yes: I know it's not always easy for
a woman to tackle big projects like this. However, from what you have
already described -- I know you'll have success in completing your kitchen
project. That drop ceiling you tackled must have been a daunting task,
but you did it, didn't you? :thumbsup:

Take a lot of pics of your kitchen so that we can see if
there are any other areas that you can put your micro...
Also, what are the measurements of your micro? What about the area
where your kitchen table is? Any room around there? Take pics of
that area as well. 

I too, don't like toaster ovens or micros on top of counters. The micro
takes up too much room and the toaster oven to me only looks good
the first couple of weeks, then it gets unsightly looking.
We made a pull out shelf for our toaster oven inside of our bottom
cabinet in the eating area of our kitchen. We just have to pull
out the drawer and it's operational. I think it's used everyday. 
I am wondering if that's an option for you...need to see pics first.

I like the glass in the cabs, did you do all your top cabs like that?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you are having problems resizing your pictures here is a link explaining how.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-resize-photos-post-them-here-110722/ 

If resizing isn't your problem let us know and maybe we can help.


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Here's a look at the galley part of the kitchen. I had hoped to put the microwave (and possibly the toaster oven) into the upper cabinet at the far left side. I put the doors back on to see what the new glass inserts looks like on all the upper cabinets. I can remove them again if it's possible to accomplish, even though the little microwave will stick out about 1-1/2" from the lip of the cabinet. I do not think it needs a seperate microwave-type shelf, because it's little (13-1/2" deep x 18"wide x 11-1/2"tall). I was just going to drill a hole in the back corner of the cabinet and drop the cord down to an electrical strip that is mounted above the countertop. I could hide that cord with some type of metal electrical tube. To *wkearney99* - on the original photo I posted of the inside of that cabinet, you mentioned the front edge of the bottom shelf being a problem. Actually, it is literally the second shelf that is currently just sitting on the bottom of the cabinet because one of those little plastic shelf brackets broke. *LiveOak*, you are right about the build quality of the cabinets, but, it is what it is! 
I'll continue to post more photos...want to get this one out there in case I have more problems.


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Here's a photo of the other side of the kitchen...nothing is built-in over here, but the area accommodates a small desk, table and two chairs, and a small free-standing cabinet (please, ignore the mess on top).


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

I do have one of those base cabinets with pull-out shelves, but there is no outlet installed inside the cabinet (that's a thought I wish I would have known about when the electrician was here...but still a possibility) and, *Kimberland30*, maybe the best and easiest suggestion yet! As you can see from this photo, the base cabinets had hardware centered in the middle of each door. I removed the old hardware, and I'm filling those holes up with stainable wood filler, and will need to refinish the removable center of each of those base cabinets. That's why I opted for glass in the top cabinets..cut down on a lot of work!


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

We had a galley kitchen in the old house, so I know the pain you go through. 

I'd still vote for replacing the hood with an over-the-range unit. Matching up a cabinet with the door should be pretty simple, especially since you've already done the glass work. It really wouldn't have to be a 'cabinet', just some shelving would work. But a cabinet would likely help hide the exhaust duct better then you'd be able to do with just open shelving.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Seeing that you end into your breakfast room (our kitchen does as well)
you have a few options. 

The lower cabinet by the mixer that you use for a pantry -- could be used for the
micro and toaster. However, I look at your breakfast room and see a lot
of useable space that could be used. 

I like that green cabinet...

Is there room somewhere else in the house to move that desk to?
How big is that wall about 4 ft? 

Think about scouring the good will stores and Craig list for a small
china cabinet with a shelf on the buffet part. You could either refinish
it or paint it green to match your existing green cabinet.

Also, there are many great looking entertainment centers in these stores
that could be converted to a useful cabinet to house more kitchen
stuff. If the china cabinet is too big to fit the space at the end of the
cabinet...you could put your green cabinet where the desk is and the
bigger cabinet on the wall where your green cabinet is now. 

I see some great looking china cabinets and entertainment centers 
at good will all the time -- really cheap.

I know I'm taking you in a completely different direction. I thought I'd
throw out these ideas for you to think about. 

hint...go to a good will store in a good neighborhood, people get rid of some
good stuff.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Armiors...that is what I was thinking of, the consignment shops
thrift stores and good will have a lot of them at bargain prices.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Here's the other option, a piece of furniture like a china cab
that you can put your micro and toaster oven on...And it
provides extra storage space. Painted green like your antique
piece would look tie it together. In our eating area of our kitchen,
we have cabinets all over the place. You can't have too many cabs! 

I forgot to mention that your kitchen is very nice. The floor
is lovely...
How long is the galley part? ours is 8 foot on
one side and 10 on the other side...the 8 foot side is shorter
cause we took a couple of feet away to install an 8 foot
bay window like yours. My eating area is 9 x 12...looks like
we have a lot in common


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

*TwoKnots*, you're my kind of friend! I spend a lot of time scouring Goodwill and St.Vincent DePaul stores, and you are right, they have some great items at times. Your idea is a good one, and I've been keeping an eye out for something very similar to what you are suggesting. My problem has been finding something that is not too deep or too large, it seems most are about 24" deep. That breakfast area is only 8' x 8', and has two doors (one to the hall and the louvered one to the basement) and a big bay window (?) on the other side. The green cabinet is 48" wide and was a great find, because it tapers from 16" center to 11" on the sides allowing better egress to the basement and enough room for pulling the chair in and out at the table. 
The desk could go, but placing anything too tall there would cover the triple light switch next to the hallway (I already have to contort my arm to reach behind the little top hutch to turn lights on and off, but because it's a seperate top piece, I do not have it touching the wall behind). That wall by the desk is 46" wide, but only 35" to the light switch.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

There is a solution to every problem..For discussion purposes,
lets say you scurried up
that green cab I posted...All you would have to do is make a cut
out for the light switch in the back of the cabinet, then paint
the light switch plate the same color as the cabinet. 
The one I pulled off the Internet looks to be about 42"...
Same thing with the depth of cabinets they can be cut down
to be slimmer...
The head knot cut down two standard kitchen (13")
cabs to make two spice cabinets for my sister. He cut them
down to 8" each... 

I love the thrift stores, problem is we make a lot of our own
furniture, so I'm limited as to what I can buy...but, I'm a chair
nut and pick up chairs, strip them down to the wood and 
re-upholster them. 
Sometimes I drag the head knot with me, he often has to pull me
off the stuff I want to buy, we have two much stuff! 
In our hallway upstairs we made a decorative
glass door linen cabinet...Since making this cabinet I've seen many things
at good will that could be stripped and refinished and make great cabinets.

Keep looking, I've so many nice small china cabinets and Armiors that
You could strip down, stain them to match your cabs or paint them to match the green cabinet. 
When you have limited space, you have to really put on the thinking
cap. I going to scurry up a pic of my eating area...we have one wall that is
only 13" deep (because it runs into the bay window) But that didn't stop me
for thinking up more cabinets.

edit...to cut that green cabinet to slim it up...you would
remove the top and just cut the bottom to your
desired depth...lets say 13" to accommodate your
micro...then reattach the top. (after you reapply the
back legs  of course.)


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

We completed our kitchen in May 2006...then took the summer off
and did the eating area...This is where I had to give it a lot of
thought...the wall is about 5 1/2 ft to the doorway, but only 13" deep.

This is what I came up with 
Top right cab is 8" deep (it has three doors) with a cookbook 
shelf underneath... one door opens on the
right into the window, the other two doors are a bi-fold. It houses
a TV. Underneath that cab is a cab that is about 11" deep...that
is for potatoes, onions, and more cookbooks...
Then two winters ago, I said I need an oil and vinegar cabinet...
this cabinet is 9" deep...we made a wood top for it...

Then last winter I said, I need another spice cabinet for spice refills
also to store stuff I don't use every day...this cabinet is 7" deep.

My point being, you don't need big hunking cabs or furniture like everyone else has...small space and small stuff go hand and hand. 

There are many great finds in thrift stores that can be adapted to fit
your space..


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

I love those cabinets! What a great little area to stash lots of stuff.
Never thought about slimming down the depth of a piece. Would you just cut it down with a circular saw?


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Many cabinet lines can be ordered that way. Essentially just wall cabinets but made with a toe kick base. I had three of them made that way for the inside of our basement bar counter. 

I don't know where you're located. It helps if you update your profile with at least a vague indicator of your region. 

I used http://www.omegacabinetry.com/ for the bar and laundry room cabinets. They were pretty inexpensive when I searched through their dealer list for my area and priced them out. Turned out a local plumbing supply house carried them and was a LOT cheaper than all the other 'cabinet retailers'. But I had to do all the measuring and design. Which, having just been through that for custom cabinets elsewhere in the house, wasn't all that hard. This is why I think the idea of putting a new cabinet over a range microwave might be cheaper than you'd expect.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

DIYGIRL123 said:


> I love those cabinets! What a great little area to stash lots of stuff.
> Never thought about slimming down the depth of a piece. Would you just cut it down with a circular saw?


Yes, any cabinets you buy you can cut down.As I said previously said,
my sister picked up standard 13" deep upper cabs and the head knot 
cut them down to 8" using circular saw...you draw your line and be sure 
to use blue tape on the side your saving -- to keep the wood on the good
side from splintering.

My neighbor ordered kitchen cabs (generic cabs from the big box store)
and wanted a couple of narrower cabs for a tight area...( she wanted 20" 
deep instead-of the standard 24" deep) ...she called us for help cause there was a 
significant up charge For what they deemed ' custom cabs' ...I told her to
order the standard cabs and the head knot showed her hubby how to cut
them down. Lots of money saved, and everybody happy.

DIY gal...we designed and made our own cabs, that's why I keep dreaming
up ways to add more cabs...I do all the finishing, and have good luck
mixing the stain to get the desired matching color. 

I forgot to mention I love your vent hood, and wouldn't part with it either.
Have you looked for a SS spray yet? I think it's going to be hard to find,
and not look like SS...Your stove is black, what about a hammered black
hood. Also, black makes things appear smaller. I have to take another
look at your pics...


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

DIYgal, what about antique hammered bronze, for your fan hood?
...Rust-oleum
makes this color and I used it in our brass dining room chandlier.
Ya know what's great about painting something? If you don't like it,
you can paint it again. :yes:

I'll do a painted chandlier post in the Home decorating section, so you can see the color on metal.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Any progress DIY gal? Or are you still in thinking mode?


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Ha ha! You've got me pegged! I've been I'm looking for a larger cabinet/hutch for the microwave and toaster over, as you suggested. No luck yet.
Painting the big green monster seems too messy and difficult while hanging on the wall, so I've been dragging my feet on that endeavor. But, I found some peel and stick stainless steel film that I'm considering for the range hood (and maybe the stove/fridge/dishwasher if it looks good and works well). I've not been able to find it in the stores, online only. Two brands are ezfauxdecor and applianceart...take a look online. Seems pretty easy to me. I may order the samples to determine which finish I like as it is available in Polished Stainless Steel, Nickel, or Satin finish. They even sell peel and stick granite for countertops! I'm going to check the blog or create a new one to see if anyone has used this type of product. Thanks for hanging in there with me!


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

You just keep looking, you'll find it...and when you do,
that will be a real fun piece to do...have you looked at Craig's list?
If you see something on CL you like, don't go alone, for safety reasons.

When I logged on here, I checked 'new posts' and saw your inquiry
about the film. I'm wondering how the film would fair over a hot
stove and oven? I hope you get some feedback on this.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

It would seem like a bad idea to use an adhesive film above a source of heat. You do not want to set your kitchen on fire, certainly not just for the look or to avoid the labor to take it down and paint it.


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Becuase it's heat resistant from 14-122 degrees Ferinheit, the product info states the film can be used on appliances: dishwashers, fridge, microwave, and ovens (but not the stove top) . My stove has a glass cook top, so I believe the rest of the stove could be covered safely, and the range hood should be safe, too...what do you think?


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

I donno DIY girl, it looks like it may be difficult to apply on the hood,
as well as just being a temporary fix. I would hate for you to spend a 
lot of money, and then several months later it looks bad. 

Did you figure out the cost? ...and have you tried to look for SS
paint on line?


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Yes...I have two types of SS paint. One is Rustoleum Ultra Cover Metallic silver (goes on with a brush) and Rustoleum Metallic Brilliant Metal finish (spray paint). I like the spray better because it appears to have actual metal flakes. But after drywalling and sanding I'm so tired of all the sanding mess!
Actually saw a few SS range hoods on ebay for under $200...just wonder how much installing one would run, any idea?. Eventually, I'll buy a SS range and fridge, just can't do it all at once.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

Well, you have all the electric there already for the old hood,
so, it's just a matter of taking the old one down and installing the new
one. Do you have a friend that can help you?

The SS paint that brushes on is intriguing to me.
The sanding would just be a light sanding with a 
sanding sponge to rough it up a tad to aid the
paint in sticking. Then vacuum it down and wipe
it clean. 
The SS brush on paint would be the first thing I would try.


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## Two Knots (Nov 12, 2011)

DIYgirl...this is the cabinets my sister rustled together for
the apartment on her house. She bought generic cabs from
Home Depot...then for the eating area she bought all upper
cabinets.
The two singles on top (standard 13" cabs) were cut down
to 8" deep.. The bottom cabs are also -- two double standard 13" deep 
top cabs that they bought
legs for -- and installed them as bottom cabs. It's a small area so she
couldn't use the standard 24" deep bottom cabs.

To sum it up -- the top two cabs are 13" deep top cabs, cut down
to 8" deep, and the two double cabs on the bottom are top cabs
installed as -- is on top of legs...Then head knot cut the 8" cabs down,
however, my niece made the countertop with glass tiles and
installed the bottom cabs after she attached the legs. 


She saved a lot of money by not ordering special order cabs.


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## DIYGIRL123 (Oct 3, 2013)

Twoknots, those cabinets look fabulous! Great idea...as always, Thanks!


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