# My house remodel



## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

*Bathroom*

This was the most extensive as it was all torn out to the studs. The bathroom was remodeled sometime in the 50's and then things added periodically until we got the house.

The tiles on the wall are plastic. There were two doors going into the room, one coming from the master bedroom which I removed as you can walk an extra couple feet to get in through the normal door and we need extra storage space. 

The soffit above the tub was removed to make the room appear larger with its 9' ceilings. we kept the tub as it was an odd ball size and would have been expensive to get a new one (gf and her parents wanted to keep a tub there).

All new electric was installed in this room as well as new copper in the entire house.

Before:









This is the door that was removed. Note the little storage cubby to the left of it, that went through the wall and into the closet in the master bedroom taking up even more valuable space.









Some demo, Note in the first picture there is a small section in the wall where the vanity used to sit. This was framed in with a straight wall:

















Framing (I was orignally going to float a new cailing below the old one but after I started I (along with the electrician) decided to tear it down:









This is where the door was:

















Drywall and durock:


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

*More bathroom*

More finish type work. The upper section of the cabinet I built will have two glass shelves that have yet to be installed:


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

The plumbing was center with the vanity, hindsite, I know. So I had to do some finaglling to get it to work. The drawer size was ok, the problem was the rail that the drawer sat on was right into the drain pipe. So to remedy it I first removed one of the rails for the top drawer and cut it down so it ended at the same spot the drawer ended. I then removed the rail and wheel from the drawer and also cut it back. Then I cut a 1x12 piece of pine down to act as a support for the drawer rail and screwed both the top and bottom drawer rails to the wood.

































More stuff installed:

















And thats it for now, Ill post the final pics of this room sometime next week after its 100%.


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

Now onto the kitchen.

In here the cabinets were kept and sanded and stained.

Counter tops kept.

Appliances all kept.

Some new electric on half of the kitchen, plumbing wall side, opposite of bathroom. 

New tile, base, shoe and crown.

A lot of cabinets did not match and were completely removed.


Before shot, not that great of a pic, sorry:

























Before and after sanding:









Into drywall:

















More progress:

























Unfortunately these are the only pics I have for now of the kitchen. Ill get the finished pics up sometime next week.


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

This is the spare room. 

It got a lot of work done. This room was a dark pit of despair and is now a bright and welcoming place.

I wanted to remove this closet completely but couldnt because the bottom of it is covering the ceiling for the stairs into the basement, so I instead built it out for a decorative storage area. I also framed out what was the bakc wall of that closet and tunred it into another nook for a glass shelve and decorating.


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

More spare bedroom:

Paint, pergo and trim:

























Closet build out:


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

Now onto the master bedroom.

This is the door that went into the bathroom:


























Paint and other stuff:

















Trim and closet build out:


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

These are stairs that lead from the backdoor into the kitchen going up and the basement going down.

The tile goes straight into the kitchen (and it turns out I did have a couple more recent kitchen shots as well):


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## no1hustler (Aug 11, 2010)

Wow, great job so far!


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

I want the beads and paneling back :yes:. Good job, dorf dude...


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## CZSteve (Jan 8, 2008)

Excellent job.


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## GDV (Sep 14, 2010)

I have to say - that's some pretty neat tiling work you've done there, especially on the staircase! Great colour choice as well. 

Don from Garage Door Vancouver


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Nice work! A pedestal sink may have worked better to reach the tub controls and drain. With the double wall it would be easy to recess the medicine cabinet, the light fixture above would be more effective. Or just change the type of light fixture now that will extend off the wall past the m.c. The stairs had the required nosing (3/4") min., be careful on them now with less tread depth. 
Photo 13: http://www.stairways.org/pdf/2006 Stair IRC SCREEN.pdf Accurate tile work, looks quality!

Gary


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Nice work and nice orderly pictures. You were wise to keep the old tub. They don't make that style anymore and a durable cast iron tub will last many years beyond your average fiberglass. What is odd about the tub size?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

holy batman good job! why the cement board for the stairs? i know in the bathroom its needed...


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

Thanks everybody!



federer said:


> why the cement board for the stairs? i know in the bathroom its needed...



The stairs were built poorly and I actually had to rebuild the bottom step completely. I used the cement board because I figured it would beef up the stairs a little bit more as well and cost wise it was not much different.

BTW, it was a huge pain to put down that board and the tile on those stairs. Each step was a different size, out of square and not level. My dad did the tile on the stairs and it took him a whole day (he is not a tile guy). It took me over two hours just to install the durock on those stairs, the same amount it took me to install the bathroom hardee floor and the kitchen


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

So is that tub something other than a 30X60?


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

The tub, sorry I forgot to answer earlier, is 54".


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

Installed the handles on the kitchen cabinets.





























I also did a How to Guide of the install.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

You did a fabulous job. I bet her parents are very impressed with everything.


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

gma2rjc said:


> You did a fabulous job. I bet her parents are very impressed with everything.



Thanks! 

Im not sure if they are impressed because they never really said anything about my work.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

They are too polite, or introverts..... 

http://ergonomics.about.com/od/kitchen/f/toe_kick.htm

http://ergonomics.about.com/od/kitchen/f/toe_kick_dim.htm

Gary


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## jegolopolli (Aug 25, 2010)

GBR in WA said:


> They are too polite, or introverts.....
> 
> http://ergonomics.about.com/od/kitchen/f/toe_kick.htm
> 
> ...


So you are saying my base and shoe ruined the optimal toe kick size or something?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Most cabinet builders incorporate a toe-kick into the base units. With new installs, they furnish a 1/8" thick by 4" high by 8' long trim specifically for that area. No shoe or base there. Nice looking work, though!


http://www.google.com/search?tbs=bk...IYT6swOux5R0&ved=0CBYQpwU&fp=8d9c50a61d5b9175

Gary


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## Holden BeachBum (Jan 3, 2011)

Gorgeous! Well done!


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## Sandra20 (Dec 30, 2010)

thats a lot of work that you did,it looks great


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

You might find that when you are standing and working at that counter that your toes will hit the molding.

If it bugs you just take it out.

Gary already mentioned that the cabinet suppliers usually provide the 1/8" wood for the purpose. If you don't have it, it's only a piece of 1/8" plywood which is finished to match the cabinets (usually).


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