# Vinyl soffit into vinyl fascia



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Use the same channel that you use to hang it on the wall end, just run it on the back of the fascia.

ED


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks. I was thinking that, but I also thought maybe there was some other special way to do it, or some special trim piece I needed.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Also, just out of curiosity, have you ever used inside corner pieces (like what you would use on the inside corner of a wall) at the soffit wall junction? I was thinking this would look better than just j-channel.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

F-chanel


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I see no way an inside corner is going to work.
I use a lot of vinyl lumber but would not be using it for a fashia.
#1, It's expencive.
Tends to end up being wavy unless you install a subfashia.
Rarely does it extend down far enough to cover up the J molding to hold up the soffit.
A pine fashia wrapped with coil stock works for me and has none of the issues.
At the wall to soffit area I use A vinyl cove molding made by Certinteed that has a 1/2 slot to except the soffit and the top row of siding can be punched with a Snap Lok punch so it locks in place.
Any real siding supply should have it.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

joecaption said:


> At the wall to soffit area I use A vinyl cove molding made by Certinteed that has a 1/2 slot to except the soffit and the top row of siding can be punched with a Snap Lok punch so it locks in place.
> Any real siding supply should have it.



I like the sounds of that, It could replace at least 1 J-channel, 1 undersill, and maybe another J or F depending how the soffit is held at the wall.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Some people leave an end open, and just slide in the Soffit pieces. Then when they get within 4 or 5 feet, they put in the end piece, then just put the remainders in. Make sure you have proper venting from the Soffits, into the attic space, so that any hot air in the attic, can be pulled by draft out of the Ridge or end vents.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Don't forget your attic soffit vents, if needed. They should be right next to the fascia board for optimum airflow, not to get snow,water intake from the wind blowing across ground, up house wall (gathering moisture from siding) and around soffit/roof overhang. 
Use continuous venting rather than the tiny little punched holes in the vinyl panels that eventually clog from dirt/moisture passing through.

Gary


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Gary I have been thinking about doing that with my Garage. Only problem is that I can maybe at most, cut in 2" holes. Then I would have to put some form of screen up, that would not allow in Hornets or those pesky Japanese Beetles that always find some way into the Garage.

I would still have to put roof or a ridge vent in.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Gary, I thought that the soffit with the holes was continuous venting? Could you explain that? Thanks for the help!


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Greg, to meet the 150 rule, you need 3-1/2" round vents abutting each other to get the required 9 sq.in. per foot.... not a pretty picture. 

chr, the drilled/punched soffit has very small holes that tend to clog way fast because of the moist air (humidity) flowing in them. This keeps them wet around the holes to collect dust until they stop functioning, may take years or months, depends on placement/climate/surroundings. *Scroll down to pp. 616*; https://books.google.com/books?id=Z8apR1RkUHUC&pg=PA606&dq=attic+airflow+with+gable+vents&lr=&as_brr=3&cd=13&hl=en#v=onepage&q=attic%20airflow%20with%20gable%20vents&f=false

It's the small diameter of the holes (1/32-1/8") that I have trouble accepting; http://cthandiman.com/services/vinyl-siding/soffits-and-fascia/
Excellent article though I see a few things wrong...

If venting it; http://www.homedepot.com/p/Construc...te-Aluminum-Eave-Vent-Soffit-CEV8WH/202218145

Gary
PS -what type of attic insulation?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Gary now I have another item to have my son learn.

Chronojosh, Before you put any soffit up there, make sure any wood covering the underneath is cut away. It is fine if you have to leave a strip at each joist. Are there Baffles up in the attic already? What temps are you getting at the hottest time of the day, and during the morning?

I use a Radio Shack Weather Station, that uses small sender units, that I have one in my Basement and one in my attic.

I was getting temps up to around 140 with just the six vents that were put on my roof. That was why I had to put in the Power Vent to keep from baking the new shingles from the backside. Once the Power Vent went in, the highest I ever saw was 115.

Now with the 4 vents on the sides of the house, towards the insulation level of my attic. I have not seen it get any higher than 95 during the day. It drops down very quickly after the Sun goes down, and is down to outside temp for the rest of the night.

I have no Soffits on my house. So I have to do it differently in what you are doing.

See if you can get the Soffit material from your local ABC Warehouse. Along with any other items you need. They will bring it to your house, if not in stock when you go there. If you have a contractor that you have worked with. See if they can let ABC know that you will be picking the materials up when they come in.

Now of course you may find it cheaper online on say Amazon.com. But that would mean LTL (Less Than Truckload), and you or someone would have to unload the materials from the truck. I am lucky on that part, because we just have the items shipped to her work. Then the guys load it into her van.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I do have rafter vents in each bay. I don't know the exact temp in the attic now, but it's very hot in the summer time up there. I have a full roof length ridge vent from when I got a new roof a few years ago. I will be removing the wood soffit and installing blocking for the new vinyl.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Go get a unit that you can place a remote sensor in the attic, and see what the temps & humidity are up there.

Without Soffit vents, that Ridge vent does nothing other than look all pretty.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Good idea. Thanks. I know the ridge vent is doing nothing now, but I knew I was going to need one since I was going to redo my soffit and siding anyway. I didn't want to have to rip up part of the roof to add it later.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Joe, what would that sub-facia entail? Would it be blocking in between each rafter tail?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

chronojosh, Subfacia is where the Gutters attach.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

chronojosh said:


> Joe, what would that sub-facia entail? Would it be blocking in between each rafter tail?



chrono - if your roof line is already established, you only have 2 choices, block it in or, cut your rafters back by the thickness of a continuous sub -facia board. Either would support your PVC and keep it as _straight as your sub - facia_.

A better way to do this, as Joe mentioned, is just use a pine board, then wrap it with alum.. The alum is tucked underneath the drip edge at the top and at the bottom folds back under to cover your soffit. If you do not have access to a brake, you can buy pre-creased alum to fold.
It looks good, will provide weather protection, and also carries the soffit, which I believ is how you started this thread.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

So...update, I have been tearing out my wood soffit, installing blocking, mesh screen for insect protection, and installing the pvc fascia (with a sub fascia), j-channel behind that to accept the soffit and soffit cove moulding where the wall and soffit meet. I am using all CertainTeed product and the soffit is there fully vented triple 3 1/3. When it comes to long runs of j-channel and the soffit cove, when you have to use more than one piece, do you just butt them against each other or overlap them? Joe, I like the soffit cove btw, thanks for the recommendation!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I overlap them, because butting tends to leave a small space.

Trim about 1/2 inch from one pieces back and inner sides, leaving a little nub to over lap the face of the other one, to close up the gap.


ED


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I'm not able to picture exactly what you're describing with the nub. Do you happen to have a picture of it? Thanks for the help!


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

chronojosh said:


> I'm not able to picture exactly what you're describing with the nub. Do you happen to have a picture of it? Thanks for the help!



your J channel has a little "U" hook at the outside edge. Cut only the "U" portion off about 1/2" to 3/4" length. The remaining tab will now slide into the adjoining pc.,


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks for that. I got it for the j, but what about the soffit cove? It seems trickier because of its shape, but maybe I'm just over thinking it.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I know people like pictures of progress on here, so here's a couple of mine. The first is the front of the house that I'm working on. The second is a small soffit on the side of my house that I did first to practice on.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Looks good from here, recessed lights are a nice touch. Is the trim removable so the soffit can be cut and installed and then re-installed to cover the cut out? 

Is that 2 x 2 lumber in there as a nailer? If so, would have liked to see a little heaver board. Vinyl soffit mat'l is not heavy but a 2 x 2 strung horizontal at 32 to 48" might sag in time under it own weight. Also if you are using nails to attach your soffit you will find the 2 x 2 bouncy when nailing near the center of the span.

And lastly on the small section completed. Why no vents?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks. The trim is removable on the lights, although cutting out the hole with snips was a pain. I used 2x3s as my nailers, but they did bounce a little when nailing. Hopefully the ones against the wall won't sag, since I not only toe screwed them in, but also along the middle sraight into the house.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I used CertainTeed triple 3 1/3 soffit with the invisivent. The venting is hidden in the grooves of the soffit. You can't see that from the pictures. I also stapled up screen before putting up the soffit to prevent any insects getting to the attic from the vent holes


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

chronojosh said:


> I used CertainTeed triple 3 1/3 soffit with the invisivent. The venting is hidden in the grooves of the soffit. You can't see that from the pictures. I also stapled up screen before putting up the soffit to prevent any insects getting to the attic from the vent holes



Just looked at the specs on your soffit, looks like a good choice at 10" of net free vent per foot. Well above most typical full vent styles.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

That's one of the main reasons I chose it too. That and it's 3/4" projection means it will replace my solid wood soffit and sit at the same level. I really like it so far. I have been alternating two panels vented and then 1 unvented to ensure I have the right attic ventilation balance. Hopefully my calculations were correct on it haha.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

That's the front so far.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

chronojosh said:


> That's one of the main reasons I chose it too. That and it's 3/4" projection means it will replace my solid wood soffit and sit at the same level. I really like it so far. I have been alternating two panels vented and then 1 unvented to ensure I have the right attic ventilation balance. Hopefully my calculations were correct on it haha.



The fact that you are even thinking about the vent calculations means you are doing more than most. Are sure you want to cut down the NFVA by 33%?
That puts you at 6.7 x 2 = 13.4 inches per foot of total soffit vent (both sides).

Most ridge vents I think would exceed that. It is ok to have extra on the soffit side of the equation. Some say that a 60/40 split is even better.

Looks good :thumbsup:


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I did the calculation based on a 60/40 split for the soffit/ridge vents. So I think I'm good there. I thought about it for a while, but I have large overhangs in the back too, and full venting I think would have been way too much


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Also, I'm still not sure on splicing the soffit cove. I understand splicing j-channel, but for some reason how to do it with the soffit cove confuses me. I can't find a answer online, and emailing certainteed was no help. I attached a picture of what I am trying to splice. Thanks.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would cut it very similar to the way that interior crown molding is coped. 

That is to cut the Nailer side and some of the bottom off at an angle that way you can butt the showy side together to take out any gap that might appear.

You might be able to overlap the cove just a bit to lock it together, maybe with some cyano-acrylate. (SUPER GLUE) 



ED


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I played around with a couple pieces and basically ended up trimming about and inch off of the nailer, j-pocket, and the siding butt on the bottom. It doesn't look too bad and was the easiest way for me. Thanks for the help on that. BTW, does anyone make an insert/plug for inside corner posts? I have the "critter caps" for the outside posts, but have yet to see anything for inside ones.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

According to post #25 it doesn't matter how much soffit vent you put in the air is not getting in the attic, you must clear the way.

If you did install a 1 by for the fascia board I don't think your gonna like it when it comes time for some rain gutters.

also..


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Just in case you are wondering.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

ron45 said:


> According to post #25 it doesn't matter how much soffit vent you put in the air is not getting in the attic, you must clear the way.
> 
> If you did install a 1 by for the fascia board I don't think your gonna like it when it comes time for some rain gutters.
> 
> also..


If you look close at that photo, you can see the egg crate baffles, although they look a little flattened.
And regarding the 1" finished facsia, look at the same photo and you can see a 2 x sub fascia, so the OP has 2 1/2" fascia, should hold a gutter just fine


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I put in the stryrofoam baffles when I remodeled the inside of the house, so I don't have to worry about the vent path being blocked there. Yoda man is correct in that underneath the 1x6 pvc fascia is a 2x4 sub-fascia. I have this setup on a section on the back of the house from some repairs last year, and the gutter has stayed up fine. Thanks for the response and diagrams though. Also, any ideas on the inside corner caps?


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

On to the rest of my soffit....


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

chronojosh said:


> Also, any ideas on the inside corner caps?




Inside corners for what? If its siding, you can buy inside corners with a built in J channel to match your siding


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I was looking for caps for the bottoms of the inside corners, much like the ones they make for outside corners.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

And yes these are the inside corners for vinyl siding


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

You might want to start with the mfg that made your siding. Personally I have never used a bottom corner cap on a outside or inside corner. If you do use anything, be sure it doesn't trap water. If you need to plug for bugs, you could use some plastic foam mesh similar to what is used under ridge vents


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