# New interior door jamb width is short by 1/2"



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

I have an older interior door whose jamb was destroyed by termites.

So after having the house tented and demoed the old door, I bought a new prehung door and installed it.

What I didn't anticipate is this is an older home from the 60s so it has plastered walls. So the walls consist of 2X4 wood studs, and on each side 3/8" gypsum board, and on top of that 3/8"-1/2" of a brown coat, then a thin plastered veneer, then like 3-4 layers of paint :laughing:.

So when I put the new jamb against the wall, the wall is thicker than the jamb by about 1/2"-3/4". The brown coat and plaster is not perfectly smooth so it's thicker in some spots.

I set the door square and level, flushed with the finished wall on one side. Now the other side the wall protrudes beyond the jamb by 1/2"-3/4". See the pictures.



















Any suggestions on how I can make up the additional thickness so the door trim pieces can be installed properly?

Route a really skinny strip to add on to the jamb?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

You could buy a jamb for a 2x6 wall then rip the jamb down to fit


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

I would prefer to not take the prehung door down only to tear the jamb out of it.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

you cut a filler strip to fill the space. Allow a bit of reveal of the existing edge. It is easier to install it that way rather than trying to make it flush. then when you install your trim, you allow for a bit of reveal at that point as well.


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

nap said:


> you cut a filler strip to fill the space. Allow a bit of reveal of the existing edge. It is easier to install it that way rather than trying to make it flush. then when you install your trim, you allow for a bit of reveal at that point as well.


Wouldn't the filler piece be super skinny when it is even thinner than the original jamb thickness? Will it hold?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

super skinny? Which dimension are you speaking of?


as to thickness, it will be whatever is required to fill the space between the jamb now and flush out to the wall face. As to the width: starting 1/16-1/8" back from the edge of the jamb you can make it as wide as the space allows, out to the opening in the wall. The space is usually about 1/2 inch plus most of the thickness of the jamb material should give you a bit less than an inch so you will have fillers 1/2-3/4" X about 3/4"-1"


will it hold? What do you think it is holding? If will be pinched between your trim molding and the existing jamb.


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

What I mean is, this existing jamb is about 3/8" thick. The new extension jamb will probably be the same thickness, but set back a bit, let's say a 3/16" reveal, that means this extension jamb will only "overlap" the existing jamb by 3/16". I will need to drive a nail through this extension piece. I guess I worry it will split that piece as I do it.

I see your point about making it a wider piece if the wall board allows. I think may be it's doable. I think the wall board is uneven, but I can knock off some to allow a thicker piece. I just don't know how much asbestos are in these plaster and lead in these paint layers.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Yes, it is possible to split the filler. I like to use a power brad nailer but don't use a brad that is way too long. They tend to cause less splitting for me.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

The nicest way I've seen it done is by special ordering the correct width jams (an 1/8" or so larger is even better) in solid lumber. The best finish carpenters I've seen will take a hand plane on any high spots to get the jambs flush with the irregular plaster work. Sounds like a lot of work, but it gives the best end result IMO.

With what you have now, and w/o taking the door back out, I think all you can do is make extension jambs for the door. If you're worried about splitting the door jamb, keep in mind you'd have to pin the casing into it as well with similar reveal, so it can certainly be done. If it's still a concern, I'd try to pre-cut all your casing first, as well as the extension jambs, and glue and pin them together first, on the floor, and then install the casing/ext. jambs as one unit......


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

Add a filler strip. It's not at all uncommon to have to do, particularly on older houses. Predrill your holes if you're concerned about splitting. You can't add your filler strip to the side you have the arrows on however. (I believe that to be the door side). Push the door side through so that it is even and add filler to the other side.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Personally, if I were going that route I would use very small brads and wood glue applied to both surfaces before setting it into place.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

No worries about adding a small SMALL filler strip to that side. Would not work if the op was trying to expand a two bye four jamb to fit a two bye six wall as the door would not open all the way....but no problems with that small piece.. Ron


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## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

measure along the entire length of the jamb for the widest point. add 1/16" for the filler width. you can use 1/16" reveal.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

ront02769 said:


> No worries about adding a small SMALL filler strip to that side.


The side he's indicating with the arrows is the door side. You can't add a filler strip to that side.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

You can add a filler strip on either side.


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

The side that has the protruding wall is the door side.

When I was deciding which side to install flush I sort of flipped a coin.

I understand there are some draw back to add a filler strip on the door side. For one, I will not be able to swing the door open 180 degrees, and in my case this is fine, because there is a wall there and so the most I can open that door is 90 degrees. Secondly, a filler strip will require a "longer strike plate" for the lock, I guess I can buy a longer one if need be.

I am not against the idea of backing out the screws and reinstalling the door to be flushed to the opposite side of the wall. What I am trying to avoid is to tear everything apart and put in new jamb which to me I might as well not get a prehung then.

Lesson learned to measure the jamb width needed next time.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

For extending the jamb click on link, scroll down to number #4. I would suggest using screws instead of nails. Pre drill holes with counter sinks, then wood putty holes and where extension meets the original jamb. Sand then paint.
http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/MidwestManufacturing/web/docs/pdf/frameExtenderInstall.pdf


Another option is to make your own jamb, This one I would prefer to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sViv0iGE67w


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

nap said:


> You can add a filler strip on either side.


Only if you're not including a door. In the case of a prefab jam, the hinge spots are already routered. If the hinge spots have not yet been routered then you do not want to router into the filler and mount hinges on the (weaker) side.

The filler strip need to go in on the NON door side.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

miamicuse said:


> The side that has the protruding wall is the door side.
> 
> When I was deciding which side to install flush I sort of flipped a coin.
> 
> ...


The door will also not be flush with the door casing upon closing. You will also have difficulty getting the hinge pins in/out and will have to router some of the filler for that.

Do yourself a favor, back out the screws and do it right because it's just going to look crappy. It easier to correct it now as opposed to later.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Bob Sanders said:


> Only if you're not including a door. In the case of a prefab jam, the hinge spots are already routered. If the hinge spots have not yet been routered then you do not want to router into the filler and mount hinges on the (weaker) side.
> 
> The filler strip need to go in on the NON door side.


having done just that (filler on the door side) to compensate for an overlayment of drywall, I can assure you it can be done with excellent results. There are limits to how thick of a filler you can compensate for without experiencing some issues, if one has a bit of imagination and ingenuity it works just fine


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

nap said:


> having done just that


What you do with your own house is your own business, but what you are describing is crappy, lazy, and highly inaccurate workmanship which you shouldn't be passing onto others.

The filler strip needs to be placed on the non door side PARTICULARLY on a prehung door to avoid complications with the hinges and striker plate. It's that simple.

Stop passing out bad information.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Bob Sanders said:


> What you do with your own house is your own business, but what you are describing is crappy, lazy, and highly inaccurate workmanship which you shouldn't be passing onto others.
> 
> The filler strip needs to be placed on the non door side PARTICULARLY on a prehung door to avoid complications with the hinges and striker plate. It's that simple.
> 
> Stop passing out bad information.


actually it is none of the above. It looks great and works just fine. 


if you lack the knowledge and ability to make it work, that's on you but suffice it to say, there are simply times it is not practical to reset the door frame and installing a filler strip can be done with great results. You should stop arguing it can't be done with good results just because you can't do it.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

nap said:


> actually it is none of the above. It looks great and works just fine.
> 
> 
> if you lack the knowledge and ability to make it work, that's on you but suffice it to say, there are simply times it is not practical to reset the door frame and installing a filler strip can be done with great results. You should stop arguing it can't be done with good results just because you can't do it.


Making it work is not the issue. Doing it properly is. Even the OP seems to know more than you:



> I understand there are some draw back to add a filler strip on the door side. For one, I will not be able to swing the door open 180 degrees, and in my case this is fine, because there is a wall there and so the most I can open that door is 90 degrees.  Secondly, a filler strip will require a "longer strike plate" for the lock, I guess I can buy a longer one if need be.



Nap,
You're a fairly intelligent person. We're all wrong sometimes though and your ego seems to get the best of you at these times. The filler strip needs to go on the NON door side otherwise there are complications with the hinges and striker... now give it a rest already.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

> =Bob Sanders;1719825]Making it work is not the issue. Doing it properly is. Even the OP seems to know more than you:


he understands how to make it work. It has nothing to do with knowing more than I. I simply figured out how to address the issues and still ended up with a very presentable product. He appears to have weighed the issues and is still not willing to pull the frame. That is his choice. If all you can do is say "you have to put the filler on the non-door side" well, that isn't really much help then, is it?





> Nap,
> You're a fairly intelligent person. We're all wrong sometimes though and your ego seems to get the best of you at these times. The filler strip needs to go on the NON door side otherwise there are complications with the hinges and striker... now give it a rest already


it *SHOULD* go on the non door side but regardless of how much you want to claim superiority, there are times it just is not going to work out that way. That is where a skilled craftsman solves the problem and produces a very acceptable end result. As I said, if you cannot do it, that's on you. I have done it and with very good results. There was no problem pulling hinge pins. There was no problem opening the door as far as I ever wanted to. I didn't even have to use a different strike plate but hey, I don't know nuthin' yet somehow I ended up with a very nice door install. Maybe I was just lucky.:whistling2:

Ya see bob, sometimes we have to play with the cards we are dealt. You seem to be of the mind that you get to pick your hand. It's nice when you can but a skilled player plays what he is dealt, and still wins. I'm sorry you do not have the ability to "think outside of the box" and think there is only one way to do something.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

Oh dear lord... I give up dealing with your ego issues.

The op clearly understands the implications of his decision.... and that's what counts here.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

> Bob Sanders;1719889]Oh dear lord... I give up dealing with your ego issues.


good because I grew tired of YOUR ego long ago. Now maybe you will quit trying to constantly prove you are better than others. 



> The op clearly understands the implications of his decision.... and that's what counts here.


it's about time you finally realized that.

That is why I proffered the advice I have while you wanted to continue to cry that you cannot put a filler on the door side of the frame. I guess that means your advice was simply meaningless and it is good that you finally realized that.


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## nickatprobuilt (Feb 15, 2015)

Lowes usually has some 1/2" stop you could use to fill in the gap.


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

OK finally I was able to shift/move the frame, then ripped pieces of the jamb extension.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

Good job!

You can fill in that gap at the bottom with a bit of grout if it bugs ya.


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