# Drywall - fixing patches from torn off glue



## DK75 (Jan 9, 2006)

I removed a bathroom mirror that was held onto the wall with glue in various spots. Going to hang a smaller, more decorative mirror with new fixtures. When removing the mirror, the glue remained onto the mirror and tore off the paint and paper layer of the drywall. I am left with various spots of the brown paper backing. 

I by no means claim to be good at drywall work, but can eventually get the job done well. I seem to come across this problem often. What is the best way to fix or patch the spots on the wall where the brown paper is exposed. 

I can't just spread some compound over the area and smooth out. As it dries, the paper seems to ripple. I eventually have to do several coats and sanding in between. I am assuming the paper is geting moist and rippling. 

I am currently using regular USG joint compound premixed. 

Any advice on procedure, methods, tricks, or even the preferred compound is greatly appreciated.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Apply Gardz first( before jc) and you will have no problems. This is what it was made for.:yes:


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

chrisn said:


> Apply Gardz first( before jc) and you will have no problems. This is what it was made for.:yes:


Gardz is a good choice. Do remember you need to prime again over your repairs!

I use dry mix compound (hot mud) for these sorts of things as it doesn't stay wet so long as out of the bucket stuff. The 5-minute stuff works especially great but you have to brace yourself to work fast because the set-up time starts almost the minute the powder is out of the bag/box and it sniffs moisture. You might be more comfortable with 20 or 45 minute to start and until you get the hang of mixing it (you can pick your consistency to a point). Let it set-up in your pan until you feel it starting to cure. 

You can buy compound, ($8 or so a bag/box retail?) with set-up times from 5-20-45-90 or even 120 minutes. I add this stuff called NoPox which seems to help mix it and makes cleaning up tools a lot easier---and it is cheap. I suspect it is nothing more than the surfacing agents used in dishwashing soap?

I have a long, cute, plastic, multi-shape drywall knife thing a former girlfriend gave me many years ago that I find worthless for anything else but perfect for mixing the stuff in a nice drywall pan. Especially with the five minute stuff, you don't have time to go over anything more than once so make sure you have at least a nice, flexible 4" minimum width drywall blade. I find it easier to just use my 12" and lay the stuff down, pass back over it once. Sand/wet sand in just a bit and you are ready to prime and paint. Note that it will take a little more energy to do this than bucket mud. It is heavier in weight. 

Get it out of your pan when you feel it hardening on you though or it will take longer to clean things up. Mix small amounts at a time or have another person working with you if ever working on a larger areas.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The primer over the raw paper is the key to sealing it to avoid blistering. Any spot that are loose should be cut out prior to primer. Ready mix or setting type compound will work once the paper is sealed....


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## DK75 (Jan 9, 2006)

Thanks for the information. I picked up a quart of Gardz and it worked out perfectly. Sealed the exposed paper and provided a barrier to keep the joint compound from blistering. I wish I had this in previous projects to save me the time and hassle of continuous and repetitive sanding. 

Thanks again.


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## TownCarTechi (Sep 7, 2015)

Hello, just joined the forum, and searched for a post that matched my immediate problem, found this old post from 2009, had previously found another post from 2012 on the forum before I joined, that discussed the same type of problem - brown paper exposed on the drywall. In my case, it is the ceiling in a bathroom we are remodeling that shows the damage and exposed paper. For both posts, the solution of choice was using Gardz, but I want to understand if I need to remud the ceiling after applying Gardz, or just primer (Kilz) before painting.

My son who works at Home Depot, and is pretty handy, suggests just adding new 1/4" drywall to cover the damage.

Is one choice better than the other?


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I would use the Gardz on the brown paper, first off. Allow the Gardz to dry completely.

Then, depending on how much paper is missing, I would apply self adhesive fiberglass mesh drywall joint tape in strips going across the area of the missing paper and up onto the undamaged paper an inch or two on both ends of the strips. Dilute white wood glue with water to make it into a paintable consistancy, and paint the strips of fiberglass mesh drywall tape. As the glue dries, it will bond the fiberglas mesh to the Gardz.

Apply two coats of fiberglas mesh strips with the second coat strips running perpendicular to the first, and paint that second coat with diluted white wood glue, and allow to dry.

Now use your favorite joint compound to skim coat over the repair, sand smooth being careful not to damage the fiberglass mesh tape, prime and paint.

Or, at least, that's how I'd proceed.

I don't see any advantage to using KILZ as a primer here instead of any run of the mill alkyd based primer which you can buy anywhere. And, I'd top coat with a paint made for bathrooms like Zinsser's PermaWhite Bathroom Paint, which you should be able to find at Home Depot and other fine stores.


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## eandjsdad (Dec 22, 2013)

It's a ceiling, you don't put 1/4" up unless you laminate it. Chances are this would be by far the worst option.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Just about anything would be better than 1/4" drywall. Maybe read the opinions on Kilz on here too.


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