# glue corner beads and tape?



## begal (Jul 23, 2014)

Can you use glue for corner beads and paper tape? I see some of the paper bubble out and needs to be cut out and redone?


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

If your talking the metal corner beads with the paper tape, I spray the metal with a Loctite spray, hold in place a few seconds, and then be sure to get mud under the all the paper so it doesn't bubble.

Then again, I am a CPA, so maybe a pro has a better way of doing it.

B


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## begal (Jul 23, 2014)

No i was talking about the paper with metal inside of it for corner beads and also regular paper tape. I was going to use no nails construction glue.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

You need to use a 3M spary adhesive for those corners I believe it's 385 and no tape.the only tape needed is already on the bead.


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## begal (Jul 23, 2014)

What's wrong with no nails construction glue? I was talking about regular tape for drywall, can i glue it? Seems trying to imbed it in mud is an extra step.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Begal:

People seem to think that paper tape is inherently better than self adhesive fiberglass mesh. I have no opinion on that, but I do know that more newbies have more trouble trying to install paper tape than anything else, and by the time they cut out all the bubbles and go over the repairs again with more tape, they just make a big mess of the job.

For your tape, I'd use self adhesive fiberglas mesh tape. If you want to do a Cadillac job, dilute white wood glue with water to make it into a paintable consistancy and paint over the fiberglas mesh with that diluted glue. As the glue dries, it'll bond the fiberglas to the paper, thereby ensuring that any tension in the paper will be carried across the drywall joint by the fiberglass; not the joint compound (which would crack). Doing that will save you very much frustration.

Please... Do yourself a favour and don't use any outside corner bead that has ANY metal in it. The fundamental problem with metal is that it BENDS if it gets a hit. If you're moving a table into the room and the corner of the table hits your metal corner bead, then you've got a big problem because you can't really cut that dent out without bending the corner bead further, or running the very real risk of bending it further, thereby requiring that you replace MORE metal corner bead, with the same risk of bending it again when cutting through it. Repairing metal corner bead is a snowball rolling down hill.

By contrast, vinyl corner bead snaps back to it's original shape. So, if you break vinyl corner bead loose, you can just mix up some joint compound with some white wood glue, pull the corner bead away from the corner, use a putty knife to spread that super sticky mud under the corner bead, press it into place and wipe off the excess sticky mud with a putty knife and remove what's left with a damp sponge. Then, hold the corner bead in place with some painter's masking tape while the sticky mud dries. By morning, you'll be able to take the tape off and mud the corner just like you would any other kind of corner bead.

http://www.trim-tex.com/products/drywall-accessories/corner-beads/standard-corner-beads/

Open your yellow pages to Drywall & Plastering Supplies and phone around. Just about every one of those places will sell you Trim Tex vinyl corner bead.

Here is the Trim Tex corner bead I use, and I wouldn't use ANY corner bead that isn't vinyl:










That image shows the regular corner bead and the stuff made for doing archways. Both have holes in them, and those holes allow your sticky mud to get squeezed out so that the corner bead hugs the corner tightly.

The way I install Trim Tex vinyl corner bead is to cut it into roughly 2 foot long sections. Press it against the drywall corner and mark the edges of the corner bead on the drywall. Now, mix up your drywall joint compound with plenty of white wood glue mixed in with it. Spread that sticky mud on both sides of the corner inside the marks as well as on the inside of the vinyl corner bead. Now, press the vinyl corner bead onto the corner until all the excess sticky joint compound oozes out. Collect that excess joint compound for reuse, wipe up what's left with a damp sponge, secure the corner bead in place with some painter's masking tape and let it dry overnight like that.

In the morning you'll be able to remove the tape and mud the corners normally.

I've done the corner bead around more windows than I can remember this way, and all are holding up fine after at least 10 years by now. I wouldn't do my corner beads any other way.

PS: Do not be afraid to thin your drywall joint compound with water to make it easier to work with. The one time I used joint compound out of a box I found it so thick that it was difficult to work with. You want your joint compound to be mixed so that it holds it's shape on your trowel but spreads easily. Don't make it so thin that it's hard to control because it's runny. You want the stuff to be easy to work with, and that will result in your doing better work.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I will give my opinion of mesh tape. It is a product that should be pulled from the shelfs. It has no strength and is very prone to cracking because of this. It should only be used with setting (hot mud) because this is where it gets it's strength. It states this on the package. 

And I do agree Trim Tex Vinyl is about the best bead around I haven't used metal bead in years And I never liked the paper backed ones. The construction adhesive is a bad idea for a couple reasons 1. it's hard to apply without getting some squeeze out and with construction adhesive even a little squeeze out would be a nightmare. 2. If anything ever happened to that corner you could not repair it, you would need to cut the corner out and re-drywall it. Spray adhesive for bead is easier to use, cheaper, and works well why wouldn't you want to use it.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> It should only be used with setting (hot mud) because this is where it gets it's strength. It states this on the package.


No, what it does state on this package:

http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...k-fiberglass-drywall-tape-submittal-J780A.pdf

is the following:

 In reinforcing joints and corners in drywall interiors, setting-type joint compounds (not ready-mixed or powder drying-type joint compounds) are recommended for the first coat over SHEETROCK Fiberglass Drywall Tape. For the second coat, setting-type or drying-type (ready-mixed or powder) joint compounds may be used.

Paper drywall tape is stronger than fiberglass mesh tape,

... but ...

"setting type" joint compounds (aka: "hot" drywall muds) dry harder and stronger than conventional premixed joint compounds.

That's cuz the chemical cure that kicks in with chemical set joint compounds continues for a long time, causing the joint compound to dry harder and stronger than premixed drywall joint compounds.

So, the whole idea here is that if fiberglass mesh isn't as strong as paper tape, you can still achieve the same drywall joint strength by using a "hot" mud in your first coat over the fiberglass mesh tape. You have a weaker tape, but a stronger mud, and the end result is a drywall joint that's comparable in strength to a properly done paper taped joint.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> No, what it does state on this package:
> 
> http://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG_...k-fiberglass-drywall-tape-submittal-J780A.pdf
> 
> ...


Isn't that what I said? Now throw in that hot mud is hard to use and hard to sand. I agree if you use it all the time or have used a lot of it it's fine but for a first time user it can cause more problems than it fixes.

Now throw in, mix it too thin makes it brittle, mix it too thick it has lumps, mix with warm water dries too fast. All i'm saying is mesh tape and hot mud to someone who hasn't used it before can really cause some problems.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

begal said:


> What's wrong with no nails construction glue? I was talking about regular tape for drywall, can i glue it? Seems trying to imbed it in mud is an extra step.


An _extra_ step? It it is _the_ step. Paper tape needs to be embedded in mud, period.

If you have trouble with bubbles in paper tape, then use FibaFuse (not FibaTape, but FibaFuse).


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> People seem to think that paper tape is inherently better than self adhesive fiberglass mesh.


It is inherently stronger. Whether or not it is better depends on other things.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> No, what it does state on this package:


In other words, what ToolSeeker said much more concisely.

Mesh tape is funny because people think it makes their life easier, but one of two things happens:

a) they use drying compound with it, which makes for a crappy joint, making their life more difficult down the road when it cracks, or

b) they use setting compound with it, as they should, which is a pain in the neck, because they were looking for ease of use to begin with.

Now if you simply cannot figure out how to embed paper tape, and don't want to learn, but are willing to go to the trouble of mixing compound - if you are that rare person - then go ahead and use mesh tape. However you're still going to have headaches when you get to the corners.

You have two better options. Learn how to embed paper, or go buy yourself some FibaFuse, which is essentially the best of both worlds.


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## FatBear (Jan 14, 2009)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> The way I install Trim Tex vinyl corner bead is to cut it into roughly 2 foot long sections. Press it against the drywall corner and mark the edges of the corner bead on the drywall. Now, mix up your drywall joint compound with plenty of white wood glue mixed in with it. Spread that sticky mud on both sides of the corner inside the marks as well as on the inside of the vinyl corner bead. Now, press the vinyl corner bead onto the corner until all the excess sticky joint compound oozes out. Collect that excess joint compound for reuse, wipe up what's left with a damp sponge, secure the corner bead in place with some painter's masking tape and let it dry overnight like that.


I would like to try this technique. I setup a test corner to do a practice run and came up with a couple of questions: 

1. How much, or what ratio of white wood glue is "plenty"? 

2. Can I use Titebond II? I have a big container of it that is getting old and I'd like to use it up.

Thanks!


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Ive been taping for 40 years. For the last 15 or so, all I use is the mesh tape. First two coats are hot mix setting compound, third is USG dust control ready mix. No need to reinvent the wheel with glues and all kinds of shoemaker ideas. The only way you learn how to tape is to do it, screw it up, learn from your mistakes and do it some more. I taught my son's how to tape when they were 15 and working with me in the summers. There is more than one way to skin a cat, but no need to get crazy about it. Btw, hot mud is really no harder to work with other than the time limit you choose. No need to sand it at all when using it on the first two coats. Run a taping knife over it between coats to knock off anything sticking up and proceed with your next coat. Final coat gets sanded, and if you didn't glob it on, it shouldn't be an all day project. And also, I use metal corner bead, clinch it, then hand nail, not screws. If you bump it, yes it will dent, no harder to fix then a plastic bead cracked after bumping.
Mike Hawkins:smile:


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## FatBear (Jan 14, 2009)

Yeah, I started out with paper tape 36 years ago myself and only use mesh now. And I started out with metal corner bead and switched to plastic, too. Sorry, but I hate metal corners. There's nothing wrong with doing things the old way, but sometimes the new way can be better. In this case, I've got some corners where I want to give this technique a try. 

I guess Nestor is no longer around, so I'm on my own as to how much white glue to use. I'll figure it out.


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## FatBear (Jan 14, 2009)

Just a followup, in case anyone is interested. I had an arched wide "door" between two rooms that I tried Nestor's technique on. It had been widened to 6 feet from a 36" door and was pretty close to cabinets on both sides of the the wall. I wanted a good fit with the existing wall surfaces without a lot of feathering. 

The results turned out extremely well. The tape allowed me to adjust the set of the corner beads to meet a straight edge held along the wall surface. I think this is probably the biggest advantage of this technique.

But I'll tell you what, it is a messy job! Maybe there's a better way to do it, but I don't know how. Of course filling the bead and then screwing it on would probably be almost as messy. I've never done that, either. It's also much slower than just screwing the corner bead to the studs. But the results are just really nice and finishing out the wall was a breeze. I'm not sure, but this might have saved me as much time as the extra that it took to do. 
I know that because another door in this same room got the corner bead screwed on like usual. It was just a 36" door, fully wrapped in drywall - no arch or anything - and it took a lot more work to prep it for texturing than the one with the glued on corners did. Even using a straight edge, the screws can mess with the alignment of the corners. You wouldn't notice it so much in new construction, but when you are working in an already finished wall, it takes a lot more work to meld the new to the old. And you get the inevitable bulges that have to be trimmed off because they stick up above your finish and so on.

The mud/glue does shrink. I don't know what it looks like underneath the corner, but it shrank away from the holes a little bit. Each hole had a little mud disk in it, just slightly separated from the plastic. But it still seemed very firmly attached. After it was dry I mixed a bit more of the mud/glue and went over the plastic again to make sure the holes were completely filled. I did little build-up at this point, so it dried fast and I didn't actually lose much time. Then I came back and filled the corner up level with the bead.

It's harder to sand the mud with glue mixed in it. This seems to bode well for durability, but you want to keep working the cleanup as much as possible while it's still wet.

I'll keep this one in my bag of tricks, but I hope I never have to use it again. Most corners just don't need this kind of care.


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## ktmrider (Apr 3, 2017)

FatBear said:


> Nestor_Kelebay said:
> 
> 
> > The way I install Trim Tex vinyl corner bead is to cut it into roughly 2 foot long sections. Press it against the drywall corner and mark the edges of the corner bead on the drywall. Now, mix up your drywall joint compound with plenty of white wood glue mixed in with it. Spread that sticky mud on both sides of the corner inside the marks as well as on the inside of the vinyl corner bead. Now, press the vinyl corner bead onto the corner until all the excess sticky joint compound oozes out. Collect that excess joint compound for reuse, wipe up what's left with a damp sponge, secure the corner bead in place with some painter's masking tape and let it dry overnight like that.
> ...


 if you use all purpose mud (green lid) it has glue in it that's why you use it for tape coat,
and toolseeker is right mesh tape is junk unless you use hot mud to bed it in .hot mud is harder to work with but you don't use it for final coat anyway and as it dries you can knock the edges down so you won't have to sand it


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