# Rust Removal from Old Hardware



## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

For _steel_ parts: I use this method to remove rust from older hardware, hand tools, car parts, and my kerosene railroad lanterns --http://hellofriendpeace.tripod.com/id7.html. Note that it calls for "washing_ soda_". I use a 6 amp battery charger and a plastic container of appropriate size. It's not an instant cure, that's why I like it. Good Luck, David Update: I had to go look at the can first. _I do not work for this company, I'm a customer only. _"Google": Captain Lee's rust remover". I buy 2-4 gallons a year of these products for paint removal, and rust removal on my older cars--NOT my RR lanterns (too darn hard to find). I'm sure there are other products that work also. I get this at car shows. Just anther thought, David


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I use these folks for restoring old antique hardware if that is what you have. They are reasonable and things turn out amazingly beautiful. 

http://www.albarwilmette.com/hardwarerestoration/

I would think there would be someone like them around you, Lexington or Berea?


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## spark plug (May 5, 2009)

cellophane said:


> I have quite a bit of old door hardware that is in varying states of disrepair that I would like to clean up and reuse. I know I can soak the bits and pieces in laquer thinner to remove paint that is on them, but I am unsure how to remove the corrosive build up that is on some of the pieces that were on exterior doors or left in the garage for an indeterminate amount of time. If there is any advice on cleaning up the internals that would be particularly useful.
> 
> I've seen electrolosis rigs for cleaning up steel tools but that doesn't really work for screws and the like since hooking them up to the electrode is difficult.


I don't know how this particular "(Electrolosis?"/ (Electrolysis) method works. But in general, electroplating and other DC electric transfer methods work in such a way that you use a chemical (mixture of sulf. acid and water, well diluted) that has a - (Negative) polarity. And the object to be plated or cleaned, a + (Positive) polarity. When dipped (together with containing basket) in the chemical, the objects get plated or cleaned, alternatively.:boat:!


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The best way I've used is electrolysis. You use a battery charger some granulated soap in a bucket of water and a sacrificial piece of steel. Do a google search for the exact setup and the caveats. It produces oxegen and hydrogen gas, both of which are explosive. Do it outside and you should be fine.
Ron


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## spark plug (May 5, 2009)

This is an addendum to the previous post #4 by Spark Plug!
All of the above is in Low Voltage, (DC). Less than 24V. Not to be harmful to human contact.:yes:!


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## cellophane (Sep 29, 2009)

spark plug said:


> I don't know how this particular "(Electrolosis?"/ (Electrolysis) method works


The only problem with the electrolysis (spell check ftw?) methods is connecting the material to an electrode. For something big like a saw or plane its easy to do - but for a handful of screws or small door hardware parts it gets difficult, at least for someone who has never done it. I'm sure with some practice a jig could be built... (if only i had a welder!)

I know there are some salvage places *sdester *but I don't know about a refinisher. I'll dig around and see what I can find - although I'm hoping to do it myself. Work is mind numbing lately and the DIY stuff around the house is keeping me sane - but that is a different animal all together :wallbash:

Thanks for the link - worst case scenario I can box them up and get them done there! :thumbsup:


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## rustyjames (Jul 20, 2008)

A soaking in a mild phosphoric acid solution always worked for me, and it's painless.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Found this one in your area that sounds like fun to visit if nothing else. They may have some advice for you or sources other than I know. 

http://www.architecturalsalvage.com/home.asp


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I have seen this used to clean old paint and rust from hinges and door knobs.

Put several shovels full of crushed limestone gravel into an electric cement mixer-------
-------add the rusty ,paint covered stuff---turn on the mixer---Go fix your self a sandwich and a lemonade-- Eat lunch-turn off mixer---Cleaned and shiny parts--------Mike-----

Really crusty parts? Take a nap after lunch---


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

I'm sure all of these methods would work, with tweaking here and there to get the right results. Electrolysis seems like the elephant-gun approach to a flea problem and abrasive grinding the most sure, but for a gradual approach, go the acid route. 

Start with whatever acid you like, even vinegar, see if it works and move progressively through phosphoric to muriatic even, but one of them will do. If you have such a metal that needs electroplating or ball-mill grinding, then those options still exist.


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## HouseHelper (Mar 20, 2007)

Naval Jelly and wire brush.


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## cellophane (Sep 29, 2009)

i picked up some naval jelly and will give that a shot over the weekend. on the back of the package it says to either paint or use an oil on the surface after stripping. for door hardware what would be a good product?


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