# Metal roof overhang too long



## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

As you can see. Metal extends too far even if i put a 2x4 on top of facia water will overshoot. My research so far indicates can cut metal roof...something i preferably wont do. Anyone know how to go about this? Note: also in snow area so i was going to use 5 "screw and furrule on k style gutter...screw into rafter.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Cutting Metal Roofing With Circular Saw - YouTube


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

Nealtw said:


> Cutting Metal Roofing With Circular Saw - YouTube


on the roof would not be easy i dont see it working well plus can damage roofing 



elec shears might work but I was hoping for alt solution


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

I refuse to cut metal siding roofing with a skill saw. can lead to rusting. Really should have gutter apron on that. also top of gutter should not be higher then then metal roof. Snow will build up , if you get it , and tear the gutters off. Could use electrics or hand snips.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

Randy Bush said:


> I refuse to cut metal siding roofing with a skill saw. can lead to rusting. Really should have gutter apron on that. also top of gutter should not be higher then then metal roof. Snow will build up , if you get it , and tear the gutters off. Could use electrics or hand snips.


What is the perfect overhang length?

Also...i have this in my garage...is it a gutter apron?


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

bobmane said:


> What is the perfect overhang length?


An 1" is plenty. Also across the bottom I like to put a screw on both sides of the rib into the 2x fascia board.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

Randy Bush said:


> An 1" is plenty. Also across the bottom I like to put a screw on both sides of the rib into the 2x fascia board.


What is 2x fascia board I put 2 boards up to make it thicker or is that the 2x4 behind the fascia board?


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

2X is the fascia board whether it is the sub fascia or the fascia itself , some people will use a 1x board dor the fascia . and the picture of that is is what is called gutter apron.


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## quatsch (Feb 4, 2021)

Saber saw with hacksaw blade? Paint edge with Rust oleam? Wear ear protection.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

Randy Bush said:


> 2X is the fascia board whether it is the sub fascia or the fascia itself , some people will use a 1x board dor the fascia . and the picture of that is is what is called gutter apron.


Do you know, it i were to unscrew the bottom row of my roof bolts ans slip the apron under there....would reinstalling the roof fasterers make them less strong than they were were or prone to leaks?


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

bobmane said:


> Do you know, it i were to unscrew the bottom row of my roof bolts ans slip the apron under there....would reinstalling the roof fasterers make them less strong than they were were or prone to leaks?


You should be ok , if the washers are flaten out to much , replace them.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

Randy Bush said:


> You should be ok , if the washers are flaten out to much , replace them.


If the width of my roof is 34' can I tilt the gutters in one direction and still get good water flow or do people sometimes set a high point in the middle and slope down towards each edge splitting the difference?


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## SW Dweller (Jan 6, 2021)

I say the roof is fine with the overhang. Overhang good, shades the building more.

Adding gutters was not considered when they roof was installed. 

I know diddly squat about the installation of gutters. It does not rain much in the desert.
Sounds to like you just need to move the mounting of the gutter out from the wall.
Not like you need a 6x6 the whole distance.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

SW Dweller said:


> I say the roof is fine with the overhang. Overhang good, shades the building more.
> 
> Adding gutters was not considered when they roof was installed.
> 
> ...


Thanks but I am not in the desert I am in MT and all I am asking about is the tilt/bubble fall/ from left to right and if I can do it in one run or if can split the difference


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Simple problem. You either cut the roof or build out the gutter. I don't know about metal roof but can snow/ice bend that kind of overhanging sheetmetal?
Extra expense but I would build out. Cutting is option but I would use something like metal/concrete cutting blade that has no teeth at all. One snag and blade may tear the sheetmetal. As noted, paint the cut edge. Looks like older roof and bottom edge is already corroding. That may need some paint. I would cover existing facia (2x?) with ice shield as extra insurance. Then 1x or 2x blocks as fillers and new 2x facia. 2x6 pressure treated for all materials. For 36', I would split in half and get heavier duty gutters from material supply/roofing supply/lumber yard, also 20' each. Less joints. 6" gutters with 3x4 (or is it 3x5 gutter pipes) and use brackets with stainless screws and not spikes. In nj and every 16" was fine but less spacing if you have lots of snow. Maybe every 12"?
I would guess that roof's edge should come to about one third of the gutter? Usual for shingle is drip edge plus about an inch of shingles so could be less than even one third. Since facia is pressure treated, covered with ice shield and spaced with blocks, you shouldn't have to worry about occasional blockage and backflow into the facia.
Photo shows sheetmetal facia covers. Those should be used along the rake without the gutter, etc, but not necessary along the eave since gutter covers almost all of the facia.
There is gutter guards for 6" gutters also. It is aluminum guard (traditional) that looks like metal lathe sheets. If you cut a slot in the facia board so you can slip the guard at same angle as the roof (or leave about 1/4" between the board and the roof), and screw the front edge to the gutter, that would be a perfect setup, imo. Idea for my next project, if ever.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

carpdad said:


> Simple problem. You either cut the roof or build out the gutter. I don't know about metal roof but can snow/ice bend that kind of overhanging sheetmetal?
> Extra expense but I would build out. Cutting is option but I would use something like metal/concrete cutting blade that has no teeth at all. One snag and blade may tear the sheetmetal. As noted, paint the cut edge. Looks like older roof and bottom edge is already corroding. That may need some paint. I would cover existing facia (2x?) with ice shield as extra insurance. Then 1x or 2x blocks as fillers and new 2x facia. 2x6 pressure treated for all materials. For 36', I would split in half and get heavier duty gutters from material supply/roofing supply/lumber yard, also 20' each. Less joints. 6" gutters with 3x4 (or is it 3x5 gutter pipes) and use brackets with stainless screws and not spikes. In nj and every 16" was fine but less spacing if you have lots of snow. Maybe every 12"?
> I would guess that roof's edge should come to about one third of the gutter? Usual for shingle is drip edge plus about an inch of shingles so could be less than even one third. Since facia is pressure treated, covered with ice shield and spaced with blocks, you shouldn't have to worry about occasional blockage and backflow into the facia.
> Photo shows sheetmetal facia covers. Those should be used along the rake without the gutter, etc, but not necessary along the eave since gutter covers almost all of the facia.
> There is gutter guards for 6" gutters also. It is aluminum guard (traditional) that looks like metal lathe sheets. If you cut a slot in the facia board so you can slip the guard at same angle as the roof (or leave about 1/4" between the board and the roof), and screw the front edge to the gutter, that would be a perfect setup, imo. Idea for my next project, if ever.


Yes I was leaning towards build out...dont want to cut roof. I tested and with existing 1x facia + a 2x + another 1x facia I am really close...about an inch out from edge but looks like ridges of standing seam might slightly overshoot so you seem to be saying a 1x + 2 2x?...If I did that it could get me there. Are you saying to do it something like this image?


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

bobmane said:


> If the width of my roof is 34' can I tilt the gutters in one direction and still get good water flow or do people sometimes set a high point in the middle and slope down towards each edge splitting the difference?


The 34 ft is not that long of a run to do one direction. Just make sure the gutter doesn't stick up above the roof. And make sure to use plenty of gutter hanger , 16- 18 inches apart. 

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

I tested again and it looks like a 1x and 2 2x are perfect. So was ready to start hanging the wood until I realized if I have 2 full runs of fascia and blocks in the middle my hidden hanger bolts could be hitting air unless I put a block at each hanger location. Is that how its done? what size are the blocks?


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Blocks should be bit longer so you can screw them into the rafter ends without splitting them and also have plenty of block for screwing on final facia. Also predrill. As such, I would:
1. find centers of rafter ends. Note about where the existing nail/screws are so you don't hit them later. You can toe screw into the tails too. Maybe blocks should be longer. If toe, longer screws. Predrill anyway.
2. cover with flashing tape.
3. screw blocks.
4. screw facia board to the blocks.
5. install gutter. Because facia is 2x, you can screw into it anywhere. Not sure if your "hidden hanger bolts" mean the same? What kind of gutter are you using?










I used the image because those are what the supplier gave me. It worked well. I used ss screws into pt 2x facia. Both times heavy duty gutters and not homedepot stuff. In nj and no problems so far. One house, gutter has overflowed many many times.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

Great advice it is working well.

.....











..except ran into another issue. The way it was framed it bows out on one end of the span











such that with only 2 2x fascia it is at 1" overhang on that end but in middle it is at about 2.75 at longest. So it seems without cutting angles in a fascia (tough with no table saw) might have to let 1" end point be the guide then shim gutters towards the middle?...not sure shimming gutters would work though? Of course I have been planning on using the 5" K gutters. You said 6" would that solve the variance?


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Sorry but am not understanding what you mean. I think your facia should be straight and if there's any bump use thinner blocks to compensate. Or remove some of the facia. Don't follow existing lines, facia must be straight. Also don't shim the gutter since gutter must rest on facia, or gutter will begin to lean forward. If downspout and drain pipe are here, facia should be anchored well. But also your 2x facia has its own strength and cantilevering is an option. I can't say which is better but firm fastening is always preferred.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

carpdad said:


> Sorry but am not understanding what you mean. I think your facia should be straight and if there's any bump use thinner blocks to compensate. Or remove some of the facia. Don't follow existing lines, facia must be straight. Also don't shim the gutter since gutter must rest on facia, or gutter will begin to lean forward. If downspout and drain pipe are here, facia should be anchored well. But also your 2x facia has its own strength and cantilevering is an option. I can't say which is better but firm fastening is always preferred.


OK got it...by cantilevering do you mean like an awning instead of gutters?


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I meant that the 2x facia doesn't always have to find the rafter to screw into. If you're using 2x4 and fastened every rafter, final 24" (?) may not have to be fastened, just hanging. If using 2x6, even more capacity for cantilevering. Facia could twist/warp easier at the end without fastening but its capacity to hold a gutter will not be compromised by short cantilevering.


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## bobmane (Nov 21, 2009)

carpdad said:


> I meant that the 2x facia doesn't always have to find the rafter to screw into. If you're using 2x4 and fastened every rafter, final 24" (?) may not have to be fastened, just hanging. If using 2x6, even more capacity for cantilevering. Facia could twist/warp easier at the end without fastening but its capacity to hold a gutter will not be compromised by short cantilevering.


Ok it sounds like you though I meant variable in the up and down. It is not, it is level all the way across. but metal roof overhangs less on one end making about 3/4 of the width of the total run one overhang and then tapering to the end with less overhang. I think it will work anyway, I was walking around town today looking at gutters and people had them every which way. I could through them up and try it for a season.


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