# Here goes nothing :)



## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

*Update*

After my first weekend of putting up foam board. It may just be that wonderful blue color, but it already feels warmer down here.  Just a few degrees more and it will be warm enough for my wife to help me a bit.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Wow, that is going to be a nice project, that is a lot of room. That will add to the value of your home for sure.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Oh yeah I could see a nice T.V area with a (3) pc bathroom, bedroom and office area coming to life and still have room for storage. :whistling2:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Man, I'm jealous.... I hate crawl spaces.... although if we had that much free space, the wife would fill it up with 'stuff' pretty fast anyways, so maybe I should just shut up and be happy?

Great job though!

DM


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I'm looking forward to watching your progress ojc. We finished half of our basement in 2004 and we love it. 

I wish I had known about the blue foam board though. I would have put it on the walls and floor.

Are you going to have a door to access the space under the stairs?

Barb


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Boy, some guys have all the luck...pretty nice space to play with.

Can I ask you a question about your ceiling joists?

Do you know what the span is? I'm guessing 12 - 14 feet maybe?


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

gma2rjc said:


> I'm looking forward to watching your progress ojc. We finished half of our basement in 2004 and we love it.
> 
> I wish I had known about the blue foam board though. I would have put it on the walls and floor.
> 
> ...


Yes. I plan on putting some of my various computing / networking devices in there.

As for the foam board....I just hope it helps keep the space warm. I am pretty sure my wife is cold blooded, so any thing to keep that girl warm....is a must! :whistling2:

ojc


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

cocobolo said:


> Boy, some guys have all the luck...pretty nice space to play with.
> 
> Can I ask you a question about your ceiling joists?
> 
> Do you know what the span is? I'm guessing 12 - 14 feet maybe?


You may ask 

In the first picture of the post, the joists nearest the camera are about 13'6" and the 12 or 15 joists farthest away from the cameara are pushing 18' (the 18' boards extend over the basement walls to provide support for a pushout on the main floor. 

ojc


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Thanks...

Is there any bridging or solid blocking in the center of the span?


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

cocobolo said:


> Thanks...
> 
> Is there any bridging or solid blocking in the center of the span?


I am pretty sure that it is wide open, but I have slept since the last time I was down there.


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

Do you plan on insulating the floor? What about floor heat? I have it and love it. If your feet are warm then that's 90% of the battle. I waiting for more progress pic's. dorf dude...


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

ojc said:


> I am pretty sure that it is wide open, but I have slept since the last time I was down there.


Let us know next time you're down there.

Thanks.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I like the "eyebrows" smiley in your sig.... Nathan should find that and add it here. Po)

DM


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

cocobolo said:


> Let us know next time you're down there.
> 
> Thanks.


In the ~13' span, there is no blocking or extra boards.










In the longer spans, the builder doubled up boards every 5th board.


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## oatlord (Dec 20, 2009)

Before you close up the ceiling, I'd run any network cables or coax cables to the upper floors that you might need now or later. 

I say this because I just finished wiring my house, and cutting a thousand holes in the wall (well really just 5) because of fire blocking sucks a whole lot.


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## masterofall (May 27, 2010)

It does look like you are missing the X bridging. It helps to keep the floor joists straight and transfers the weight to the other joists.
You may want to float the floor on some PSI rated styrofoam to keep it warm in the winter. 
Will you be drywalling it and how are you going to run the power to get the outlets up to code? You may still need a stud wall. If your going to board it check out the Wallboarder's Buddy it may make your life easier. It may also be worth it to invest in a spiral saw to cut all the outlets.
Yer to far away for me to come and help you. Good luck. It looks like it will make a nice room.


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## ChrisDIY (Feb 1, 2010)

What is your plan for the rim joist area?


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

> Before you close up the ceiling, I'd run any network cables or coax cables to the upper floors that you might need now or later.
> 
> I say this because I just finished wiring my house, and cutting a thousand holes in the wall (well really just 5) because of fire blocking sucks a whole lot.


Oatlord - I have started that process already. Running CAT6 and RG6 to all habitable rooms and there are a few rooms that need additional romex for some new lights I am putting upstairs. 



> It does look like you are missing the X bridging. It helps to keep the floor joists straight and transfers the weight to the other joists.
> You may want to float the floor on some PSI rated styrofoam to keep it warm in the winter.
> Will you be drywalling it and how are you going to run the power to get the outlets up to code? You may still need a stud wall. If your going to board it check out the Wallboarder's Buddy it may make your life easier. It may also be worth it to invest in a spiral saw to cut all the outlets.
> Yer to far away for me to come and help you. Good luck. It looks like it will make a nice room.


masterofall - I was guess the builder wanted to save money. I will see what the inspector has to say about it during my first inspection. I still haven't decided on the floor yet. I was planning on putting down some dimpled Platon (or the like) and then either float the floor on that or sandwich some foam between the dimples and the top layer. As for the wall...yes I am going to stud it out with 2x4s and then drywall (drywall the ceiling too). The outlets you see...I just put in to run some things until I get the basement done. What's wrong with open romex? :wink: :whistling2: thanks!



> What is your plan for the rim joist area?


ChrisDIY - The builder put in the batts of insulation. I have some extra XPS left over from the walls, so I was thinking to cut boards the size of that "opening", put the board in there....seal it up with some caulk and then put the batts back in there...no need to get rid of them. Builder left a bunch of "windows" to the outside in this area........so I need to seal that up. thanks!

ojc


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

You can try Dricor on the floor. http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx
Never used it but it looks like a good product.


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

I ended up with some extra rigid blue board and so I decided to put it to good use. I pulled the batt insulation out from between the joists and glued blue board to the external board and also put blue board down on the siding that was poorly nailed to the bottom of the joists. Then I went in and filled the seams with Great Stuff. :yes:

Once it is not tacky, I will put the batt insulation back. 





































The drafts have stopped (in the sections I have done) and it is starting to get toasty in the basement!


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

*Finally Started to Frame*

move-sorry


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

*Update 03/2011*

** I apparently do not know how to properly place a post. sorry **

With the help of a friend, I was able to get started on framing. 
So far I have framed about 48 feet of wall. My framing nailer arrives this Thursday. That should help speed things up.




























ojc


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## cschwehr (Mar 8, 2011)

ojc said:


> ** I apparently do not know how to properly place a post. sorry **
> 
> With the help of a friend, I was able to get started on framing.
> So far I have framed about 48 feet of wall. My framing nailer arrives this Thursday. That should help speed things up.
> ...


Curious, do you require treated wood for the bottom plate? We do here, or if untreated spruce pine, we require a wrap of vapor barrier film to prevent water damage... Some builders go as far as a foam gasket and pressure treated wood to even hold back wicking. This is after sump or drainage requirements in our area... 

I like the rigid and spray in the overhangs, I did the same idea here in Calgary where I live and noticed a night and day improvement during our -20 to -35C winters, even though it previously was insulated with fiberglass and vapor barrier. I sealed the cracks as you did, installed rock wool insulation and then covered it with R12 polystyrene and sealed the edges, then installed drywall and caulked the edges for fire rating, as my ceiling is suspended and the mechanical room is unfinished. I'd rather go overboard then ever get called about possible fumes from combustion. 

I'll watch your thread and hope it all goes well for you!

Good luck!


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

*Update 04/14/2011*

I have begun to change some of the plumbing.



















The wife (and I) didn't like the fact that when I am away from home and there is a leak that she could not shut off the water to a part of the house and be able to use the water in a different part of the house. Once this is well labeled....it should be no problem for her to shut things down if need be.

I just think it looks cool. 

ojc


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

cschwehr said:


> Curious, do you require treated wood for the bottom plate? We do here, or if untreated spruce pine, we require a wrap of vapor barrier film to prevent water damage... Some builders go as far as a foam gasket and pressure treated wood to even hold back wicking. This is after sump or drainage requirements in our area...
> 
> I like the rigid and spray in the overhangs, I did the same idea here in Calgary where I live and noticed a night and day improvement during our -20 to -35C winters, even though it previously was insulated with fiberglass and vapor barrier. I sealed the cracks as you did, installed rock wool insulation and then covered it with R12 polystyrene and sealed the edges, then installed drywall and caulked the edges for fire rating, as my ceiling is suspended and the mechanical room is unfinished. I'd rather go overboard then ever get called about possible fumes from combustion.
> 
> ...


cschwehr -

I am using PT wood for the bottom plate. Pretty sure it is required, and I went ahead and put the pink foam under that to provide a capillary break to prevent the water from even hitting the wood. And I have dual sump pumps, one with batt backup to hopefully avoid some issues. 

Thanks!

ojc


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Ok, it seems like you have overlooked the most important thing. You should have started referring to the project as "My man cave" immediately to start the process of acclimating her to this eventuality. You'll need to refer to it intensively now, using the phrase at least a dozen times over dinner each night, if you want the desired outcome.


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

*Update*

Not alot of work was done this summer, but now I am back to it full time (at nights) and hope to have drywall up in the next few weeks. There is a folder of pics above my s










**********
>>> Folder of More Pics <<<
**********


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Would you have seen any benefits from taping the seems on the rigid foam?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

And by chance, is your house a modular home?


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## ojc (Feb 22, 2010)

mikegp said:


> Would you have seen any benefits from taping the seems on the rigid foam?


Mike - I do plan on taping these seams up....It kind of got lost in the shuffle. 



mikegp said:


> And by chance, is your house a modular home?


Mike - Nope....Maybe I will post a picture of the attic structure...it is completely custom and kind of random....but it hasn't fallen yet.


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## cprice12 (Jan 3, 2011)

Lookin' good. I learned a lot from finishing our basement.
Some things I would do a bit different and some things I need to go back and do.
But if we ever buy another house with an unfinished basement...I'll be good to go. :thumbsup:

What was your thought process when deciding on a drywall ceiling as opposed to a suspended ceiling?

I went back and forth...drywall vs. suspended when we finished our basement.
Drywall looks nicer, cleaner.
Suspended ceilings allow access to above, in case of a need to run wires/cables or if we have a leaky pipe.
Drywall is much cheaper.
Suspended would be easier for me, as I hate doing drywall.
You'd gain a little more head room with drywall.

We went with the suspended ceiling...my call. If it was up to my wife, we'd have gotten it drywalled by a drywaller. We sprung for one of the nicer suspended ceilings, at least I think so...the rigid kind that have the recessed tracks and notched edges on the panels.

It was a pain in the ass to put up. The cut tiles along the walls had to be notched by hand...and I had an octagon shaped room to deal with, along with a few boxed in ducts, some angled. It sucked and took forever...but it looks pretty good.


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