# Metal trim around closet openings



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Most I've ever seen are just drywall screwed. Angle screw slightly if necessary to bite wood.

DM


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

you can also use a clinch-on tool with a rubber mallet to grip the drywall. Here is a link on what it looks like. http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Clinch-On-Bead-Tools


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

I use a small pnuematic stapler that shoots 1 1/8 inch staples to attach corner bead to wood frames. I WONT use screws to attach corner bead ever again (for wood framed walls) if i can help it (the stapler is SOOOO much nicer!!!!!). 
I also dont use tape on the corner bead, just mud (but it probably makes for a little stronger corner if you do).


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

if the corner is true and you use one of the nice beadex style corner edges which is a metal edge with paper tape on either side you can often just mud them right into place like you would tape. 

the old school metal edges had to be nailed or stapled due to the missing paper but i would avoid that stuff since new easier to use products exist


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

racebum said:


> if the corner is true and you use one of the nice beadex style corner edges which is a metal edge with paper tape on either side you can often just mud them right into place like you would tape.


can you use that stuff to bring the definition back to a corner which is dulled from years of abuse & many coats of paints?


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

what's on the corner now? just tape? if so sand down all the high spots and test fit your metal edge

http://www.lowes.com/pd_165991-325-...urrentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=beadex

this is exactly what i'm talking about. rather than attach it old school this just muds in place. go buy one and test fit, you should be able to figure out by looking at it what will be required for a good fit. once you get it set you'll have a new edge.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

racebum said:


> what's on the corner now? just tape? if so sand down all the high spots and test fit your metal edge
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_165991-325-...urrentURL=/pl__0__s?newSearch=true$Ntt=beadex
> 
> this is exactly what i'm talking about. rather than attach it old school this just muds in place. go buy one and test fit, you should be able to figure out by looking at it what will be required for a good fit. once you get it set you'll have a new edge.


I would be putting it on corners in my own house lol, alot of the outside corners are dinged from normal wear & tear & dulled from many coats of thick paint. I think that the original drywallers just used a clinch-on tool & no tape to put the cornerbead on, then finished with a nice early 80's knock-down :thumbup: If i dont do someting about my corners soon they will start to resemble bullnose more than a nice sharp 90 degree corner lol. 

So it would be nice to mud that stuff in over the existing rather than tearing out the old bead & re-installing the same old type of bead, ya know what i mean ?


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## rovers1973 (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. There might be some confusion on what I'm doing though. I have done all my outside 90 and 135 corners with the Beadex paper faced corners, all mudded in place. All my inside corners are done as well (with just paper tape and mud). The only one I was wondering about is the overlap edge of drywall that will hide the closet door edge when its closed. I ran the drywall about 1" past the framing on the outside of the closet opening (1/2" over after the drywall is on the inside edge butting up to it). The only "j" molding I could find to cover this edge was metal (see picture). Since the nailing edge is only about 1", it won't reach to the stud underneath. I think I'll just mud it in place with paper tape, since it seems to have a raised edge that will allow it.
Any other idea's please let me know.
Thanks.


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