# Positioning speakers in BedRoom



## bohaiboy (Aug 19, 2009)

About to start a 5.1 install in master BR. The ceilings are 12 ft tall at the edges, then come in about two feet all around, and then go up to 13 ft(tray ceiling). There is also one wall that is curved and there are 18 windows in the room. I assume I will mount the 46" XBR about two feet above a dresser. My question is where should the speakers (Front L/R) be mounted in relation to the tv. The wall the tv is on is approx 20 ft wide. How high should they be mounted and how far out from the television? There is a door(8ft tall) at the extreme left end of the wall.

Thanks in advance.


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## onetec (Aug 27, 2010)

*Close*

Left, right, and center should be very close to the TV. They are where the dialog comes from and it's very odd if they are separated.


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## Lulimet (Jul 26, 2010)

It's best to position them to your ear level but I don't see that happening with wall speakers.
It is recommended that your front left and right speakers have the same distance between them as the distance from each of them to your seating position. 

This page explains it better http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/home-theater-speaker-placement.html


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## onetec (Aug 27, 2010)

Lulimet said:


> It's best to position them to your ear level but I don't see that happening with wall speakers.
> It is recommended that your front left and right speakers have the same distance between them as the distance from each of them to your seating position.
> 
> This page explains it better http://www.practical-home-theater-guide.com/home-theater-speaker-placement.html


In my reply, I am assuming these are in walls and not bookshelf or towers. Modern AMPS will adjust the level with a mic to compensate for distance to viewer.


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## bohaiboy (Aug 19, 2009)

Haven't decided on in-wall or mounted. We have spray foam insulation between the BR and Family room, so I am not quite sure having a "non hollow" wall would affect sound for an in-wall speaker.


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## onetec (Aug 27, 2010)

It would probably improve the sound. However, cutting out sprayed in (if it's the foam that hardens) and fishing wires through it can be a nightmare. Beware. You will also probably hear the speakers on the other side of the wall so keep that in mind.


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## bohaiboy (Aug 19, 2009)

I was thinking about taking a piece of re-bar and creating a tunnel in the foam to aid in fishing wires thru. SO in your opinion having the foam will help the sound?


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## onetec (Aug 27, 2010)

Yep. It's like adding a "backer box". It will focus the sound forward. That foam is probably going to be tougher than you think.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

bohaiboy said:


> I was thinking about taking a piece of re-bar and creating a tunnel in the foam to aid in fishing wires thru. SO in your opinion having the foam will help the sound?


Probably be easier to drill through the foam then to poke through. in order to poke it, it has to have somewhere to go, where drilling will actually remove it. You can get a 5' flex bit for around $30 at the big box stores, they are usually in the electrical section, sometimes in a piece of pvc pipe that is strapped vertically to the pallet racking. 

Foam will help a lot, many of the cabinet type speakers you buy are foam filled to direct the sound forward, as another poster mentioned


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## onetec (Aug 27, 2010)

I totally agree that a drill bit will work better than rebar. However, I would add that a solid auger bit with a couple of quick connect extenders would be easier to direct than a flex bit in these circumstances. You use the agar drilling up near the dry wall at a slight angle away then add extenders as needed. This allows for a more accurate path upwards and reduces the risk of the bit wandering. Also, I personally would drill from the top down straight through the middle using an auger with extensions. This is a learned skill and presents it's own risks but can be far less problematic if you know how to accurately locate where to drill.

Either way, be sure to check both sides of the wall for obstructions and use a voltage detector to look for power. Check above in attic for obstructions, power wires, or pipes using that cavity. Another issue is that stud finders may not work with hard foam so you may have a hard time detecting things like fire-blocks in the wall.

On a wire-fishing difficulty scale from 1-10, I would put this at an 8 for a novice. JMHO.


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