# Blower Resistor Block Location for 2002 Ford F150



## Billy_Bob

Yes, it not a matter of replacing the part, it is a matter of finding WHERE it is at!

And it kills my back trying to work under the dash. I think next time I will find some sort of platform to put my feet up on outside the door!


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## ferris13

I just had to do this today. I was also about to post too because I could not find any sites with pics detailing the location. Replacement part was about $20 including tax. I swapped it out in the parking lot (it is freaking cold today). The auto parts guy wanted to see where it was too....


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## Judgment Day

*Blower motor 2002 f150*

I ned help on trying to figure out what is wrong with my air in my truck. The blower does not come on at all when you turn it on. I know it is not the control cluster because I have taken it out and checked it on another truck. Does anyone have any advise on how I can get this problem resolved?


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## Thurman

Judgement; finding the problem in your case will not be a simple task. If you are convinced that your control cluster is working fine, you will have to start tracing IF/HOW power leaves the control cluster and gets to the blower fan unit. Have you tested the blower fan unit? That may be the problem in itself.


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## Billy_Bob

In the future, when starting a new discussion, click on "New Topic" on the upper left.

Are you getting power to the controller? If not check fuses.

Are you getting power to the blower motor? If not check the blower motor resistor pack and the wiring.

Use a multimeter and a wiring diagram which can be ordered from your dealer as part of the factory service manual set of books. These books would also have complete troubleshooting instructions for everything on the vehicle.

How to use a multimeter...
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...a+car&aq=0&oq=how+to+use+a+multimeter&aqi=g10


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## del schisler

Judgment Day said:


> I ned help on trying to figure out what is wrong with my air in my truck. The blower does not come on at all when you turn it on. I know it is not the control cluster because I have taken it out and checked it on another truck. Does anyone have any advise on how I can get this problem resolved?


Just tap or a good rap on the fan motor and i bet it will come on. Brush's getting wore down. I have to do this to mine . good luck


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## brokenknee

del schisler said:


> Just tap or a good rap on the fan motor and i bet it will come on. Brush's getting wore down. I have to do this to mine . good luck


I agree, check the blower motor before trying to run down all the electrical.


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## Chemist1961

Del is right. The other common symptom is that if you hit a bump in the road the blower flutters on and off,then its likely the brushes. Hard to find replacements on many models. If you can pull the blower and the brushes are shot with a lot of patience you can sometimes build your own from larger brushes, but its only worth while if the commutator is not worn like an apple core or gapped between segments.
FYI, I have rebuilt and serviced hundreds of electric motors, I wouldn`t waste my time trying to refit non original brushes unless it was a collector car with no parts...then it is a labor of love. The OP was lucky to find a resistor block for his unit. Some manufacturers don`t acknowledge this part being available.


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## marippe

I have a 2002 F150, blower speed does not change between speed 2 and 3. Have replaced resistor, no change. Any ideas?


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## noquacks

Good luck. Hopefuly that resistor will last more than a month or so.....just did my van and replacement blew again....same terminal too! 

Probably another wire that has chaffed, etc. BTW, most cars are not SAE/english, but metric.... even american cars.....


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## nap

marippe said:


> I have a 2002 F150, blower speed does not change between speed 2 and 3. Have replaced resistor, no change. Any ideas?


the switch

when a resistor burns out it almost always causes the fan to not run in the affected speed. If you have the fan running the same speed in multiple switch positions, I would suspect a defective switch first and second, multiple damaged wires that are shorting to each other. Unless you have some skilled squirrels around you or there was some other work done recently that might have resulted in a pinched/cut couple of wires, I would look to the switch.

this is all with the assumption this is not a fancy electronic system where you set the temp and the computer does the work to adjust what is needed to obtain that setting.


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