# Dryer Vent replacement



## biggie12 (Jul 21, 2010)

Hey guys, soo happy i found this site.

I pulled out my dryer to clean the dust behind the dryer and my dog ripped the vent hose pretty bad. its not salvageable, 

Dryer is located in the basement with the hose going into the wall and up about 5 feet, How do i go about changing the hose thats inside the wall. Do i have to take the outside exhaust cover off? 

I am going to try and add pics to help clarify what im talking about.

any ideas are greatly appreciated.


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

Yep, pics woluld help a lot. That way we can suggest whatever fittings you will require.


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## biggie12 (Jul 21, 2010)

i already cut a peice of the vent and took it with me to the store and bought a replacement hose they told me to go with the metal one. 

Here is a few pics, taken from my phone so not the best quality


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## biggie12 (Jul 21, 2010)

need to do this today any suggestions


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

The hose inside the wall raises 5' ?
I've never had the hose inside the wall

I've had the ones that go straight thru the wall
Then the hose attaches


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

What you bought is a transition hose, only to be used *in the room*. Once it goes into the wall, a rigid pipe and elbows are required. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...X-cV2r&sig=AHIEtbRqP1_bx_SQclGLup65cYgFwMvULw

Either buy a though-the-wall *termination* duct hood/short pipe, or open up the wall and install rigid pipe. 

You do need a new hood (Type A)to replace your broken one (Type B) and get 30% more opening at the self-closing door: 
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml


In Dave's picture, the hood is legal for dryers but I don't recommend them. Look at the flapper doors pivot rods running across the pipe opening----- they trap the wet lint from getting outside.

Be safe, Gary


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

GBR in WA said:


> What you bought is a transition hose, only to be used *in the room*. Once it goes into the wall, a rigid pipe and elbows are required. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...X-cV2r&sig=AHIEtbRqP1_bx_SQclGLup65cYgFwMvULw
> 
> Either buy a though-the-wall *termination* duct hood/short pipe, or open up the wall and install rigid pipe.
> 
> ...


BTW, there are some interesting changes re: dryer venting for the 2009 code cycle, see page 7 at www.northamptontownship.com/inc/documents/12/irc%20changes.pdf


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## biggie12 (Jul 21, 2010)

Hey My new plan is to cut the dry wall and connect trnsition hose to where old one was and then back to dryer and replace drywall. I dont need to replace all the pipes for new ones.

Wouldn't that work okay wth just the hose i have now?



GBR in WA said:


> What you bought is a transition hose, only to be used *in the room*. Once it goes into the wall, a rigid pipe and elbows are required. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...X-cV2r&sig=AHIEtbRqP1_bx_SQclGLup65cYgFwMvULw
> 
> Either buy a though-the-wall *termination* duct hood/short pipe, or open up the wall and install rigid pipe.
> 
> ...


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

"Wouldn't that work okay wth just the hose i have now?"
NO! PERIOD!
Do go to the trouble of removing only the dry wall where the current dryer hose is routed. Remove all remnants of old dryer hose, dryer vent on the outside, and start over, for safety reasons. DO use rigid aluminum duct inside the wall with 90º elbows at each end. These can be found at the apron stores and is cheap for what it will do as far as safety. Use the new "metal" flex hose, cut to fit, not wadded up nor kinked to do the connection from the dryer to the new duct, and the duct to the vent hood.
IMO-using the flex duct inside the wall is only asking for trouble down the road. Damp lint WILL hang up within the folds of this flex duct, building up until you only have a very small opening to blow the vented air through. Even with the set-up I/others recommend, with it running up, you will need to access it, say-annually for cleaning. David


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