# Vinyl siding starting point



## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

Always from the bottom.
I have never installed vinyl siding before., but it does need to start first course from the bottom.
Like tile in a shower, first course is most important. Never measure down from soffit and install.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I rarely use a level when laying out siding. I'll pull numbers off the rafters, soffits or plates as a starting point and then pull a string line across the entire wall that represents a course of siding. I like to do this at what would be the second coarse above the windows when possible. 

After the string is pulled then I'll check the reveals from the string to the windows, doors, etc. adjust the string if necessary until I'm happy with “that coarse” and the use that line as a reference point for layout on the rest of the wall.

If it's a two story house I'll pull another string above the second floor windows too.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Regardless of the type of siding I always use a story board. I'll start by cutting a board the same height as the wall. Mark the foundation, the tops and bottoms of all doors and windows, any other horizontal obstructions such as deck ledgers, etc, and the the soffit.
Then I will adjust up and down until I get a proper coverage over the sill/foundation gap as well as an attractive rip point at the obstructions.
You don't want to just snap a level line at the bottom without first seeing how your cuts will end up looking.
You may start out fine only to wind up with a one inch rip at your soffit or windows, etc.
Once I've used my story board to determine my start point I will snap a line for the starter strip. Often times I will set up my builder's level (transit) and shoot each corner. That will ensure level, accurate starts and attractive horizontal clapboards at all openings and obstructions.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Davejss said:


> Often times I will set up my builder's level (transit) and shoot each corner. That will ensure level, accurate starts and attractive horizontal clapboards at all openings and obstructions.


That's great as long as you're not working on a crooked house. Then it's the reveals that rule...not the bubble. Sometimes even on new construction when you're shooting a line over 40' the bubble doesn't cut it.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Most of the houses I've sided were old and have been added on to at least once, nothing is ever level.
I use a self leveling laser level. I can do a whole house in about 10 min.
I have not used a story pole for the last 10 years and only then when installing clapboard siding.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

I agree with Joe. Common sense says that siding that is not level is going to look like crap. Its garbage in garbage out. If you have a house that is not level, you cannot use the existing structure as your reference, you have to find the lowest point on the sole plate to foundation, go down so the first course sheds, then level off of that point. This should tell you why it is so important to get your foundation dead balls on level and square. :thumbsup:


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

jagans said:


> I agree with Joe. Common sense says that siding that is not level is going to look like crap. Its garbage in garbage out. If you have a house that is not level, you cannot use the existing structure as your reference, you have to find the lowest point on the sole plate to foundation, go down so the first course sheds, then level off of that point. This should tell you why it is so important to get your foundation dead balls on level and square. :thumbsup:


I knew this question would bring varied opinions  I have to disagree that level is always right. I did a garage a few years ago that was level front and back but was built at ground level on a positive incline slab. I was able to level the front and back and then had to angle the sides to make everything meet up. Luckily there were no openings or windows on the sides. If I would have levelled the sides the soffits and siding would have not been parallel.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

jagans said:


> I agree with Joe. Common sense says that siding that is not level is going to look like crap. Its garbage in garbage out. If you have a house that is not level, you cannot use the existing structure as your reference, you have to find the lowest point on the sole plate to foundation, go down so the first course sheds, then level off of that point. This should tell you why it is so important to get your foundation dead balls on level and square. :thumbsup:


I respectfully could not disagree with you more. If you run a level line on a geeked out house that "level line" will end up being he eyesore. 

It's all about consistent reveals. The "illusion" of level to the eye is what's important and not the bubble that's now in the back of the truck.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

kwikfishron said:


> I respectfully could not disagree with you more. If you run a level line on a geeked out house that "level line" will end up being he eyesore.
> 
> It's all about consistent reveals. The "illusion" of level to the eye is what's important and not the bubble that's now in the back of the truck.


:thumbup:


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> I respectfully could not disagree with you more. If you run a level line on a geeked out house that "level line" will end up being he eyesore.
> 
> It's all about consistent reveals. The "illusion" of level to the eye is what's important and not the bubble that's now in the back of the truck.


+2.
If you are siding an old house that is 3-4" out of level from one end to the other (old two story inner city doubles), leave the level in the truck. Years ago while working with my brother, he ran a level line down the long side of one of these old houses. It started out 1/2" below the existing siding on one end. By the time he got to the other end it was covering 4-5 inches of the basement windows. If you go level on a house like this, all the windows and doors will looked angled. On new houses or garages that I have built and know my bricklayer is always on the money, I measure off the top edge of the block and snap lines.
Mike Hawkins


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