# New home HVAC



## delstu (Jun 20, 2006)

wdsfr1968 said:


> I know this is a very hard questions to answer but I'll give it a shot.
> 
> I'm thinking about building a new house and subcontracting the electrical, plumbing and HVAC. I'm in the very beginning stages and am just trying run numbers and get some type of idea what the HVAC will cost. Most contractors in my area wont give any type of estimate until they see the finished plans. As I'm still trying to decide if I even want to build a house I obviously don't have finished plans.
> 
> ...


Yes, this is a VERY hard question to answer. There are so many variables involved. So much depends on the design. Your system could require zone controls, even possibly two or more seperate systems. It all depends on the design.

It's even worse online. We don't know the area you live in. Rural, major metropolitan, anything in between (determines costs of labor, etc.). Impossible to even guess.


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## Not Sure (Aug 4, 2006)

I am currently having a house built in the southwest. There is 2380 heated square feet in the building. I am getting two Carrier HVAC units put on the house. One is a two ton and one is a four ton. I am paying around $11,000 for both units, all the ducting, and labor. This price also included other little things like bathroom fan exhausts, kitchen hood vent ducting, and dryer vent. 

I was hoping to pay $9,000. But, this is the going price in our area.


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

OK this is my specialty in a design to give you an excellent system that will give you an even comfort throughout your home.this is good way to make sure the system is sized correctly and will deliver utmost economics and effecient operation.Its hard to give you a roundabout number tho.This is a part of your project that you want to really put thought into so you have utmost comfort.Whats needed is to have a set of plans because this will tell you sizes and so forth but at the rule of thumb at 3000 sq ft home your looking at approximately 7 tons of cooling.Im giving you a very rough guess.The very first thing you need and one of the most important steps is a heat load calculation.without that done {DONE CORRECTLY} you can have a major problem right out the gate.Make sure the correct steps are done for this so you can enjoy your comfort system for years to come with an economical and effecient system that will deliver results for years to come.


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

Quick review on a new house Air Conditioning System.

#1 get an accurate Heat load calculation

#2 decide what design of system ...split system or package unit

#3 check out floor design and sq footage of each room

#4 check out footage and distances and how to setup duct system

#5 determine amounts of materials to run duct to outer perimeters of rooms 

#6 decide proper return air locations for good air flow back to unit

#7 checkout locations for transfer grills to keep home from drawing a negative pressure pulling in outside air

these are just a few things to look at but will give the utmost effecient system design if followed right The most important step is haveing a heat load calculation instead of just sq footage.2 houses with the same footage can be a totlly different outcome. ex how the house was built,materials used , how many windows and direction there facing,how much insulation is used r value of home suggest using cellulose it fills voids a lot better.,vault cielings so forth...:thumbsup:


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## Poppyloppy (Feb 27, 2011)

Yes, and make sure it is ducted right to deliver and return the airflow cfm called for (1) in the system specs, and (2) for the size of each individual area being ducted. There's nothing worse than investing in a new home and equipment if the ducting is poorly designed


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## Marty S. (Oct 31, 2009)

never mind- 5 year old thread.


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

*5year old thread.*

hEY GUYS WHATS THE DEAL NOW BECAUSE iVE HEARD COMMENTS ON THE AGE OF A THREAD OR POST AND THINK IF THERE THAT OLD WHY ARE THEY STILL POSTED THAN? iF THERES SOMETHING OR SOMEBODY THAT NEEDS HELP WITH SOMETHING iM FIGURING WE CAN HELP.EITHER THAT OR WE CAN MAKE SURE POSTS ARE UPDATED.:thumbsup:


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

Poppyloppy said:


> Yes, and make sure it is ducted right to deliver and return the airflow cfm called for (1) in the system specs, and (2) for the size of each individual area being ducted. There's nothing worse than investing in a new home and equipment if the ducting is poorly designed


YOU HAVE TO WATCH THE SPECS ALSO CUZ SOMETIMES THOSE GUYS DONT DO THINGS RIGHT AND IF YOU RUN IT BY THE SPECS ,YOU HAve no velocity at the registers. you gotta be careful


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Not Sure said:


> I am currently having a house built in the southwest. There is 2380 heated square feet in the building. I am getting two Carrier HVAC units put on the house. One is a two ton and one is a four ton. I am paying around $11,000 for both units, all the ducting, and labor. This price also included other little things like bathroom fan exhausts, kitchen hood vent ducting, and dryer vent.
> 
> I was hoping to pay $9,000. But, this is the going price in our area.


I have only one question....why on earth would you zone with (2) units a 2400 sqft house? Must have $$$$$ to burn.

Mark


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

I kinda agree with you.A2400 square ft home can be done with a 5 ton and a variable speed blower motor.If the design was done correctly ,the ducts sized correctly and ran to the outer perimeters and also a little care in insulating the home I can promise you a tight system.I had the oppurtunity to kinda do a test run you might say.I took a 5 ton straight cool, and took a little creative piping and hooked up 2 variable speed gas furnaces and conditioned with great comfort I might add a 3900 sq ft home.also the home was well insulated and a r30 in the attic and this was working at top notch had a very happy customer and believe it or not had 1 t stat controling the whole system.Ok all you control freaks explain that control system! also in mid summer power bills never over 250 bucks!


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

I have to admit The control system took a little cyphering but it all worked out quite well.Theres no way to do this with a heat pump but straight a/c its no problem.Each air handler controlled each side of home,all ducts sized correctly and ran to the outer perimeters buy the windows ,it worked out quite well!


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## Marty S. (Oct 31, 2009)

What part of the world do you live mastertech? Just curious where R30 in the attic is considered well insulated.


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

*Mr marty*

I live in the southwest sunbelt area.I do know theres a lot of people that live in colder areas. Just for kicks r-30 is usually a lot and common in this area.Whats the norm in colder areas!:thumbsup:


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## Marty S. (Oct 31, 2009)

I figured it has to be somewhere that a southern breeze brought the smell of brimstone ( 5 tons on 2400 square). Recommended attic insulation levels for most of the US are R49- R60, walls are R13-R21. Even in your area R 30 is the minimum recommended.


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

*Mr Marty*

Fire and Brimstone! Ill tell ya my friend it does get hot.When I first landed here I knew noone and barely had any money to start with,I figured being in the a/c biz go where its hot and youll do ok.Ive seen it get to 125 and believe you me I said to myself, "self you wanted work you got it here"! When the ole heart was in overload I was ready to back home! Lugging those pumps on the roof was a job! First year kicked my a--- here but it got easier every year.Im getting older and its the other way now.Its getting to me a little more each year! I love it tho! :thumbsup:


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## mastertech (Mar 14, 2011)

WOW Marty, Those are pretty high R-Values. Thats ok because in the world of insulation,its one of the best investments to do on your home or office.It has a very quick ROIand will make a big difference for the rest of your life....CAUTION: If the insulation process isnt done correctly you just threw your money away.Im partial to using cellulose because it definitly gets good surface contact and really fills voids nice.another thing thats good is there actually making the attic part of the envelope.foaming the underside of the roof.its expensive but really works nice.I kinda think its an upcoming trend to definitly be effecient!


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