# Soldering Copper chimney flashing



## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

*pictures...*

gonna try pics again.. just a few at a time


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

*that seems to be working..*

heres some more


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

another few


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

*this is where the flashing will go*

nasty little spot :jester:


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

*My old chimney hip cover out of copper.*

Worked better than it had any right to :laughing:


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

*That is all my pics*

So anyone who was reading while I was redoing what I messed up :whistling2: the first time might want to scroll up.


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

*Ok one more pic*

I cut out the shape with a plasma cutter.. That is what causes the color change at the edges. I did that because I figure my step flashings will each need the same dogleg the first flashing did, and I did not want to waste a lot of copper between parts.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

When I was 14-15 years old (a long time ago) I had an uncle who had his own roofing company in N. FL. and I had to go work for him for two summers. It liked to have killed me and my cousin, but boy what I did learn from my uncle as far as sheet metal in roofing. He would probably look at those pictures and say--nice job, new boy. How many of those old "cooper heads" he owned, I don't know but I'm sure I used every darn one of them. I have not seen one like that one though. The roll of solder you are using is eye catching to me also, we used the bars of solder and a lot of "cut acid" made from muriatic acid that had pieces of galvanized tin put into it until Uncle Carl could look at it and say "just right". OH Yeah, we had those old heaters that used charcoal to heat the copper heads too. Try taking one of those up on a roof and using it without causing any damage. Keep up the good work, David


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Looks good. Nice job.
I've never bothered to solder a chimney flashing though. Too worried about 1 nail causing a stress point somewhere and having it break loose after a few years.

I cut the first step into a Tinner's wing, then do something similar with the back pan.

This is how most Ole-TImer's do it. This is before they even had caulk and had to know hot to make it work anyway. A dab of caulk before the flashing slides into place is my 'back-up'. Water never sees either corner, which is the weak spot.


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## buzzymalone (Jul 20, 2009)

Hello Thurman,

That is very interesting, and thanks for the kind words. That iron is originally sold for soldering up pipe organ pipes which some people will roll up from flat sheet when restoring pipe organs (like in a church). Some people will even cast the lead sheet for the pipes by pouring molten lead into a drag box and sliding it over a sheet of canvas that has lots of talcum? powder on it. The drag box has a slot in the bottom to let the lead out evenly, the sheet is about 2 foot wide. There are fixed rails to guide the drag box and space it up off the canvas.

tinner666, Thank you. I am having trouble in my mind :whistling2::laughing::whistling2: getting oriented in those photos. Is that up-slope piece of vertical copper in the second photo like a dam that goes up-slope the chimney? Would you happen to have a photo of it that is from a little further back, not so zoomed in?

Thanks,
buzzy


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