# Attaching a fence to vinyl siding



## Dspshemp (Feb 12, 2009)

Hello. I have a wood fence that rubs on the side of my house, and is extremely loud. I have been thinking about fastening the post to the house, but that requires me to go through our vinyl siding. I do understand that the vinyl needs room to expand and contract (make a bigger hole than the screw), and that UV Resistant Silicone Caulk is the best bet for outdoors, but is this really the only way? If I do go this way, should I use a large, counersunk lag bolt, or several long, exterior screws? I was also toying with the idea of cutting out the vinyl, installing J-Channel around the post, and caulking that in, but the post is about 4 1/2 feet into the ground with around 100 lbs. of concrete (high wind load and large gate installed on the post). This also would require me replacing the cross members and an extra board on the fence. So, as a homeowner, and general know-nothing when it comes to building and being a professional, I am relying on your help. Thank you in advance! 
:stupid:


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

what type of post is it? can you remove some of it? could you use a sawsall and shave a quarter inch from the house side?
perhaps a picture of your dilemma would help?

DM


----------



## Dspshemp (Feb 12, 2009)

It is a 4X4 treated wood post. I am pretty sure it is too close to the house for me to feel comfortable with the sawsall. Also, I think fastening it to the wall would give some added strength to the fence, as there is a 5' wide gate on that side. Thanks!


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

when is it noisy? opening and closing? in the wind? 
perhaps a 'vinyl-safe' oil might stop it? sure save a lot of work.
if you want to fix it, i'd go your second route.

DM


----------



## Dspshemp (Feb 12, 2009)

It is noisy in the wind. I have never thought about lubrication, and I might be able to get some felt pads on there as well. Thanks for the idea!


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

if you decide on using a lag screw you run the risk of the screw just grabbing the sheathing and not the framing. make sure if you decide on screwing that you will grab the framing members, Just a cautionary note. BOB


----------



## Dspshemp (Feb 12, 2009)

Thanks buletbob! What type of fastener would you recommend, or should I use an anchor of some kind in case there is not a framing member where the fence post is located?


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

padding seems wiser... if you attach it to your home, any noises IT makes will be tranferred to your framing and into the house.

DM


----------



## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

shemp....as opposed to putting a hole in your house, how 'bout you move the post.


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Dspshemp said:


> Thanks buletbob! What type of fastener would you recommend, or should I use an anchor of some kind in case there is not a framing member where the fence post is located?


 I would only fasten it to the house if the post was located to the corner of the house, if its located in the run of a wall then the mouse has a good point. what you could also do is install a wheel at the end of the gate. that will help with the weight of the gate. 
if you decide to go with the lag screw I would go with a 5/16"x 5-1/2" .


----------



## Dspshemp (Feb 12, 2009)

12penny, as stated before, that would be an undertaking. Bob, would a wooden swing gate on grass be able to have a wheel without loosening the post even further? Thank you all for your input so far!


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Dspshemp said:


> 12penny, as stated before, that would be an undertaking. Bob, would a wooden swing gate on grass be able to have a wheel without loosening the post even further? Thank you all for your input so far!


I have seen a wheel set up with a spring installed over a shaft that adjusted with the surface when opened.
When I built fences a ways back we always hung a gate that width from a 6x6. then no need to fasten to the house. even a four foot wide gate hung from a 4x4 will twist or bow after awhile, unsupported. Where is the gate post located,is it at the corner of the house or along a wall.?


----------



## Dspshemp (Feb 12, 2009)

It is actually in the middle of the house. If the wheel (which I will buy tomorrow) and the lubrication I tried today, I guess I will try the lag bolt as recommended. I am assuming I should use a barrier sealant on the bolt, cut an oval hole in the siding, use an upward angle into the house, and get the bolt as close to the shallow portion of the siding. Is there anything I might have missed? Also, the noise is into the house, and is almost unbearable inside, or I wouldn't have this on top of the 'honey-do' list. Once again, I appreciate all your professional information.


----------



## DecksEtc (Feb 8, 2005)

Dspshemp said:


> It is actually in the middle of the house. If the wheel (which I will buy tomorrow) and the lubrication I tried today, I guess I will try the lag bolt as recommended. I am assuming I should use a barrier sealant on the bolt, cut an oval hole in the siding, use an upward angle into the house, and get the bolt as close to the shallow portion of the siding. Is there anything I might have missed? Also, the noise is into the house, and is almost unbearable inside, or I wouldn't have this on top of the 'honey-do' list. Once again, I appreciate all your professional information.


A couple of questions/suggestions:

- do you have a cross bracing piece attached to the top of the posts on either side of the gate? If not that will help.

- I would try some sort of rubber to put between the post and your house first. I NEVER attach a fence post to a vinyl sided house - you're risking compromising the integrity of your siding and risking having your walls rot.

Also, I'm guessing you've never removed a cemented posts out of the ground by hand. If you had, you wouldn't be entertaining the idea of doing so. I use a Bobcat to remove cemented posts and even then it's not easy. Try everything you can to rectify the problem before you move that post.

Good luck!


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Dspshemp said:


> It is actually in the middle of the house. If the wheel (which I will buy tomorrow) and the lubrication I tried today, I guess I will try the lag bolt as recommended. I am assuming I should use a barrier sealant on the bolt, cut an oval hole in the siding, use an upward angle into the house, and get the bolt as close to the shallow portion of the siding. Is there anything I might have missed? Also, the noise is into the house, and is almost unbearable inside, or I wouldn't have this on top of the 'honey-do' list. Once again, I appreciate all your professional information.


Would it be possible to reverse the swing on the gate?. Mount it on the other post. if there isn't any solid framing to lag into I would not fasten it to the house. make sure before you drill the siding there is a stud. If not over time the lag screw will loosen up and make the whole ob-long and there,s your risk of a leak. Also I would drill through the high side of the siding if your caulk should fail any water that could infiltrate has a better chance of dripping out the weep holes of the siding. If you know of a roofing Buddie you could cut some 2x2 patches of ice and water shield on the siding and screw through that. to help seal around the lag screw. If done correctly there is no need to worry about rotting the sheathing.


----------

