# HOT attic, ridge vent/soffit vent questions



## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

Here is my quick story...the previous owner (also original owner) rigged things together for 40 years. I am fixing/correcting/updating. We have a 1600 sq ft split level home. Our attics get incredibly hot. They have a new roof installed August of 2005. They had a ridge vent installed at this time. Here is where the problems start...I believe the prev owner installed the siding. The soffits have notches as if there are soffit vents. However, the attic still gets amazingly hot during the summer. There are also gable vents...Today I had my wife shine two strong flash lights into the vents from underneath. I was in the attic with no light. Didn't see anything. I tried to reach out but it's a sharp angle with nails from the roof just overhead. I noticed that the loose insulation is right against the angle. So, I went under the soffit with a hanger and poked through the slots. It was solid on about 3 vents I tested. This tells me that they installed the soffits but never had a soffit vent. 

Any thoughts? 

I am considering installing two roof mounted attic fans. If I fix the soffit problem would it alleviate this need???


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

You MUST fix the soffits! That will create an airflow along the roof deck from top to bottom.
2 power fans would create an exhaust, but where would they pull the air from? You would still still a lot of open soffit and that combined with the ridgevent willcause each other to short circuit each other and do nothing to help the situation.


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## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

Question #1...do I pull soffit siding off to cut the holes? 
Question #2...how many openings and what type? 
Question #3...do I cut the holes on both sides of the house?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

1 & 2. Depends on the type, set up, looks and/or difficulty factor of each particular soffit. More and bigger hole the better. Figure lenght of ridge vent X3" for square inch/footage and at least match or better that with soffit holes.
3. Yes


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

The soffits have notches as if there are soffit vents. Please define notches.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

How wide are the soffits? If vinyl or aluminum, you might be able to remove some, cut holes as needed, screen over them, and replace the soffit material.


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## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

Tinner, 

this may answer some questions as to what I am seeing.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Even if those lanced soffit panels had the wood cut out on the interior side of them, they would not provide sufficient intake ventilation.

Power vents installed will make the ridge vent act as an intake vent. Path of least resistance.

Probably the best fix, unless you intend on doing a new roof in the near future, is to remove all of the aluminum soffit panels and reinstall all new 100% vented soffit panels. The wood on the original soffit would need to be cut out to allow the air entry into the intake slots.

There are other alternatives too, but it depends on your short/long term plans.

Tinner gave you good advice for a starting point.

Ed


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Good pics. Sider put those slotted ones in the break the pattern. As Ed pointed out, they won't offer any help. You need to replace the soffit panels with the fully vented ones after cutting and screening.


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## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

Sounds like I have my first Spring project. Thanks guys!


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## Educator (Jan 1, 2008)

Once you have some vents, you might also want to consider installing a wind trubine vent, you know the ones that stick up about a foot and look like an oval.

The attic in our newly purchased 20 year old house was unbelievably hot during the summer, yet we check on the proper venting from the soffits.

The new 40 year black shingles on the roof didn't help with easing the heat. It was so hot that we could feel it coming back into the house through the attic access from one of the bedroom closets.

What did the trick for us was to (A) add a vent on the roof with a regular vent cover over the attached garage and (B) on an existing roof vent install one of these wind turbine vents. The part inside will move from the heat trying to escape from the attic, thus causing a natural pull of the hot air in the attic to the outside.

You've seen these on roofs of commercial and industrial buildings all the time. HD sells then for less than $100.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

If you follow the previous posters advice, you will be short-circuiting the effective ventilation from the soffit vents to the ridge vents.

That would add to the internal quandry and shorten the life of the shingles.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

just remove the fascia cover,then the panels,cut a 2"strip down the center of the soffit area,then install the same panels,and recap w/new aluminum fascia--you`ll get plenty of breathing with those panels as there is an opening where the fascia cover laps the soffit panel that will also work for intake after the wood strip is cut out


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

On this point, I disagree with TRG, since the solid panels will be fastened tight enough to the remaining wood soffit structure so as to not allow a proper enough amount of air flowage to enter through the minimal slot cut out.

Also, the majority of the lanced perforation will not be in alignment with that 2" slot, so therefor will not achieve the air flowage needed.

Additionally, the lanced and perforated panels are phenominal for their aspect of allowing the lanced slots or perforations to coagulate with accumulated dust particulite debris, thereby inhibiting their performance levels. 

The spacing of the existing panels, even if the old wood soffit had previously been cut away, to allow for air flowage, would more than likely still been substantially inadequate, so by reducing them even further, you would not be assisting your desired results.

Ed


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## ShortEdged (Dec 23, 2007)

*Gable Vents*



Ed the Roofer said:


> If you follow the previous posters advice, you will be short-circuiting the effective ventilation from the soffit vents to the ridge vents.
> 
> That would add to the internal quandry and shorten the life of the shingles.
> 
> Ed


Do these Gable Vents short circuit to the ridge vents causing soffit vents not to work effectively?


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

let me explain for you ED,WHEN SOFFIT IS INSTALLED ,the sider puts a level at the bottom of the fasciaand marks the corresponding level point on the house wall,the j-channel is installed on the house wall,and the soffit panel goes onto the bottom of the fascia where it is secured,and in turn lapped over by the fascia cover.since the panels are cut shorter than the actual measurement to allow for proper expansion and contraction,this leaves a small space at both ends of the soffit panels.also when this is done properly,the soffit panels hang approximately 1-2 " below the existing wood soffit,which will as I said allow for plenty of breathing space,so if what you see is just the fascia cover without a j-channel showing,that`s how it was done like this;


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

when the gable vent is open near the ridge vent,it causes the pull from the ridge vent to go to the closest air source,ie;the gable vents--which is what Ed is telling you when he says short circuiting the vents-he`s right about that


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

ShortEdged said:


> Do these Gable Vents short circuit to the ridge vents causing soffit vents not to work effectively?


 
Yes in theory, they would. It also would depend on how much and where the intake ventilation is coming from.

Is this photo the same house as the aluminum soffit photos are from?

Additionally, there may be even more at play here, since the ridge lines of these lower roofs are lowere than the highest ridge line of the house.

Are the attic areas fluid from the lower roof attic sections to the main upper roof section?

If so, then even the placement of the ridge ventilation on the lower ridge lines may have been theoretically incorrect.

If there is proper intake ventilation in these lower roof section soffits, then the gable vents should be sealed off from the interior.

Now for TRG,

Fortunately for you, you install soffit and fascia in the correct manner. I still think your scenario would not allow a free flowing of air, but I could be wrong, depending on how many inches of space you have alloted for the soffit panels to be suspended below the wooden soffits. 1"-2"??? That would seem likely to allow them to to vibrate and chatter from the wind. 

In the method you described, it would seem as if the panels are free floating between the channels.

Whenever I have had to tear off old soffit panels that needed repairs, it was more likely than not, that they were fastened directly to the wooden soffit with either a staple or brad nails in the v-crimp.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

Ed,soffit j has a 1"lip,if it was that way you would see it in this picture,when you level it the space between the bottom of the fascia and the old wood soffit remains constant,so yes at least 1"of space,and when soffit is cut you take the exact measurement and subtract 1" to allow for expansion/contraction,and as for the pic,if they did what you`re used to,you would see the j channel because it would butt against the fascia,and definitely be visible past that 3/4"bottom bend os the fascia cover :thumbsup:


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## ShortEdged (Dec 23, 2007)

Ed the Roofer said:


> Is this photo the same house as the aluminum soffit photos are from?


No, this house has soffit vents about every three feet. No siding.


Ed the Roofer said:


> Are the attic areas fluid from the lower roof attic sections to the main upper roof section?


Yes


Ed the Roofer said:


> If there is proper intake ventilation in these lower roof section soffits, then the gable vents should be sealed off from the interior.


*That is why this thread caught my attention. I had a few roof contractors say seal the gable vents and others say that was great to have them for the extra ventilation. None said anything about the multi level ridge vent. Did have one who said seal the ridge vents and use twirly birds instead. *

*I almost sealed the gable vents up until another contractor said don’t.*

*Is there a simple test to do to see if there is a ventilation problem? I read HOT attic and that seems so subjective. What is to hot? 20,30,40 deg hotter than outside. Where I’m located it can get 110’s.*


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

don`t put turbines unless you want leak issues IMO---AND YOU NEED A BETTER PIC OF THAT ROOF SHOWING THE HEIGHT OF THOSE A`S,SINCE HEY MAY NOT BE CONNECTED TO THE MAIN ATTIC,if it`s a small rise,sometimes they frame and sheathe the main area 1st,and then mount those onto the roof sheathing--definitely close the gable vents


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## ShortEdged (Dec 23, 2007)

the roofing god said:


> THE HEIGHT OF THOSE A`S,SINCE HEY MAY NOT BE CONNECTED TO THE MAIN ATTIC,if it`s a small rise,sometimes they frame and sheathe the main area 1st,and then mount those onto the roof sheathing--definitely close the gable vents


The gables areas are all the same area and connected. The gables were there before there was a ridge vent. Ridge vents were put there after a tear off and re-shingled. And yes, they are very close to the lower level ridge vents. Now, how can you test to see if this creates an issue?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Mixed elevation ridge lines with inter-connecting attic spaces create debate at the Ventilation Seminars.

I will read up on the most current studies and thought process, but from previous instructions and worldly advice, unless there is only a slight 1-3 foot dofferential in the ridge elevations, they would probably say to seal the gable vents and the ridge vents on the lower attic recesses and install a powered attic ventilator in that cavity and block off the path of attic where the 2 sections meet and exchange the same air.

That sounds like alot of expense and additional work for non-guaranteed results.

If it were my home, I would ensure that the soffit ventilation was 100% as efficient as possible, especially on those lower attic cavities and keep the ridge vent, but ensure that the slot cut out was properly wide enough for expedient air exhaust and close off the gable vents from the interior.

Proper ventilation will lower the interior temperatures from 20* to 40* depending on the other criteria. Black vs. white shingles and orientation to the direct rays of the sun in the horizon and internal heat and humidity conditions and the prevailing direction of the winds.

Even with the most proper ventilation, the attic will still remain warmer, but not passing out hot, than the ambient external air temperatures.

Ed


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## Educator (Jan 1, 2008)

the roofing god said:


> don`t put turbines unless you want leak issues IMO


Leaks from where? If you install them right, with the right capping around the base like any other type of vent cap, there are no leaks.

roofing god, could you please elaborate on your comment as we would all benefit from your almighty wisdom.

Thanks!


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## leezarrd (Aug 12, 2007)

*radiant barrier*

*In addition to proper venting*, no one has mentioned radiant barriers... it was amazing how much heat it kept out of our attic last summer. 

The radiant barrier, stapled to the bottom of the uppermost truss 2x4 (therefore 3.5 inches below our roof), served to also provide an airspace to keep our insulation away from the area above the outside walls.... we have extra insulation with advanced trusses. The air from the soffits is not blocked and can take the heat that is radiated up from the barrier up to the ridge vents. There is also a gap in the barrier just below the ridge vent to allow ventilation from the attic. It really works. Just google radiant barrier... lots of info out there.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Here is the written response to the question about applying Ridge Vents on homes with multiple ridge line elevations, taken from Air Vent Corp., Ask The Expert Seminars, directed by Paul Scelsi.

It seems as if my previous response regarding the theory was right on the money.

Ed

*How do I ventilate a roof with multiple ridge heights? *

A “regular” at each seminar, we get this question almost more than any other. Our answer is that for multiple ridgelines, ridge vents are best because they are independent of wind direction. The basic rule for ridge heights states that all ridges can be vented whether they run parallel or at angles to each other. If, however, the ridges are more than 3 feet apart in height, one should only ventilate the higher one. 


Here’s why: Recall how an externally baffled ridge vents works — as the wind passes over the baffle, it creates low static pressure, drawing air from the attic. The faster the wind moves over the baffle, the greater the pressure it creates, drawing more air from the attic. Typically, wind moves faster at higher elevations, therefore, the higher ridge will be exposed to higher wind speeds. If the wind speed difference is adequate, the pressure at the higher ridge may be enough to pull air through the lower ridge vent. 
If the ridgelines are more than 3 feet apart in height, we recommend that you separate the attics with a piece of plywood or poly sheeting to create two distinct attics. Once this is done, you can ventilate both ridgelines with exhaust vents and balance them with intake vents.


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## ShortEdged (Dec 23, 2007)

Thanks Ed,
Sounds like I got my hands full. I will have to keep an eye on the venting. And to think, I thought I was covered with all the vents I had. I guess too much in the wrong place is just as bad as having none at all.


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

and we have cockiness rearing it`s ugly head w/this statement
"Leaks from where? If you install them right, with the right capping around the base like any other type of vent cap, there are no leaks.

roofing god, could you please elaborate on your comment as we would all benefit from your almighty wisdom.

Thanks!"
_Last edited by Educator : Today at 09:40 AM. _
_iF THERE IS NO WIND SPINNING THEM,THEY WILL,AND HAVE LEAKED IN HEAVY DOWNPOURS OF RAIN_-I have seen it many,many times


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

just so you know,I don`t just talk about it,I do roofing.for 30 years now,so save the sarcasm for someone who appreciates it


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Once again, I must strongly urge you to not use the turbine vents as Educator has suggested.

I know that they leak, not only from many studies I have read, but also from 29 years of actual hands on roofing experience.

Additionally, the ball bearings will eventually freeze up and the rotation will be non-existent, which would totally thwart any perceived wind driven benefit.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

well put Ed


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## Educator (Jan 1, 2008)

Hey Ed and god,

I apologize if you misunderstood :no: and if you feel offended  , that was not my intention.  I was just trying to understand (A) what specifically is the issue (Ed has at least addressed that) and (B) avoid someone just making a comment without providing specifics.

We all have our own experiences which is what makes topical forums interesting, but only if we can share the details vs general comments so we all can learn. 

Now, if they leak (I'll take your words for it as I have not experienced that) why do we see them on so many industrial / commercial buildings (at least in my area)? Why do we have so many retailers, including the big box stores sell them? I would think if they leak so much and stop working after a while that there would be an uproar against them, the retailers would be getting constant returns (which does the retailers no good), and so on.

If you had links to specific consumer reports, etc. that would also be great. I did a google search and could not come up with any. I did find this http://www.askthebuilder.com/442_Roof_Turbine_Vents.shtml from a gentleman with (per his web site) similar amount of experience who says they are wonderful

Again, I am not doubting your vast experience, knowledge, and so on......I'm just trying to understand the details of all this so we can all benefit.

Many thanks!


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I wasn't offended by your view points nor did I say anything about your comments except that they were erroneous.

Many people do not realize they have a leak, especially if it only comes in a little bit at a time and gets into the attic insulation and not enough to travel all the way through it and leak through the ceiling drywall.

Warehouses would not even be aware of thelittle smattering of moisture, since the ceilings are usually 30 foot up and it would probably come in as a mist.

I know they leak on a regular basis, because when I do a tear-off and remove the old ones, the plywood decking they are attached to is Always wet with stains that have been there long term and ongoing.

Plus, they freeze up and stop spinning after a certain period of time.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

_iF THERE IS NO WIND SPINNING THEM,THEY WILL,AND HAVE LEAKED IN HEAVY DOWNPOURS OF RAIN_-I have seen it many,many times----I believe this told the story on the turbines,as far as sarcastic insulting commentsgo ,how else would you consider this statement:roofing god, could you please elaborate on your comment as we would all benefit from your almighty wisdom.

I believe that was meant as an insult,but don`t worry about,there are larger issues in my life to concern myself with


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

I also have a roofer freid in winnepeg who doesn`t feel they are good for his climate


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## malibuvan (Jul 15, 2008)

I had some new soffit installed all the way around the front of my gambrel type roof home recently, and the company that installed it used all vented soffit. Will this cause some sort of a "short circuit" for the roofs ventilating system?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

No, the new vented soffit panels will be the necessarry Intake Ventilation required for the Exhaust Ventilation products on your home to function properly.

Ed


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