# Door frame extends past drywall



## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

I recently tore down old plaster walls in my living room and hallway and put up drywall. My issue now is trying to trim around the doors. The door frame now sticks out past the drywall about 1/4" due to the old plaster being about 3/4" thick and the now the drywall is only 1/2". I will soon be trimming out the doors, but am unsure of what to do about that difference!!! I can't notch out the trim because it is stepped and it will be paper thin where is meets the door frame if I do. Any suggestions?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Plane the jambs.

Why wasn't the drywall shimmed to begin with?


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## housegsx (Oct 21, 2010)

I don't have any fix to offer you, but I believe the standard practice would have been to shim out the drywall.

I'm interested to hear what others suggest.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I guess you know now that anytime you remove plaster your going to have to shim out the wall or use thicker drywall.
The trim can be mortered if it's thick enough. Or just attach strips of untreated 1/4 lattis to the back side of the trim on the outside edges. Your going to have to caulk that area anyway then paint it so it's not going to show.
Another way is to use back band molding. Key word it on the net.


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

joe, that was the option that I was leaning toward originally, but I wanted to see what other ideas were out there. This is going to be an interesting trim job.


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## Big Stud (Jul 3, 2011)

I agree with Joe also. Too late to do much else but put a strip or backband on the casing,


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## fixrite (Mar 1, 2009)

what do you intend to trim it out with, real wood,or mdf? Also are you painting or staining? If you are using mdf, then you could slip in a thin shim and fill and paint, If it is real wood you would have a lot of tedious work ahead of you to make it look any good. Let us know what you are going to do, pics are great too.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

rip a furring strip to put on the back of the casing where it meets the drywall, this is standard practice in this sort of situation. and less work than furring out the studs on an entire wall.

using a backband will hide the seam where the casing and the fur strip meet and provides a built up look


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Since you've already installed the drywall, you could either fir out the trim or rabbet out the casing (if it's thick enough) to overlap the frame. Very simple to do with a table saw. I don't recommend trying to plane down the frames


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## sevenlol (Aug 8, 2011)

i have this same problem... only it's the 10 windows around the house, since i replaced all the doors when i tore everything out.

i wish mine were only a 1/4 inch though, i've got anywhere from 1/2 to flush, some of them on the same windows. it's the original window jambs (1924 house), and they (previous owner) tore all them out and put vinyl windows inside of the old jambs. it's a trim nightmare, and i wish i could have had the money to just replace them all. i'm using mdf though, so hopefully caulking won't look too bad.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

in your situation, your jamb extensions will have to be custom made for each and every window.. pretty common situation in renovation situations. for new construction you can measure every window and come up with a measurement within 1 /16 that will work for every window


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## chronojosh (Feb 11, 2011)

Started doing it with the 1/4" x 1 3/4" strips I found at HD. So far it is going ok... although a bit tedious. I glued the strips to the back of the trim and clamp them in place, let it dry, and then make my cuts and install. Hopefully with a little caulk and paint it will all be ok. Not sure if I am going to do the back band thing..... I guess it depends on wether or not it looks ok when it is done. Thanks for the help.


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