# Ceiling fell down



## marvinjansen (Jul 10, 2008)

I was rudely awakened by the living room ceiling falling down. Pulled the rest down amid lots of blow in insulation. Now doing some electrical work easily accessed with no ceiling and then to put sheetrock back up. Any suggestions?


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Maybe you better try to figure out why it fell down and see if the same condition exists elswhere in the house. And wear a hardhat when you sleep in case the bedroom ceiling comes down too.


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## marvinjansen (Jul 10, 2008)

*falling ceilings*

It probable fell down due to previous owner storing stuff on the ceiling and then my adding blown in insulation. Bedroom is newer ceiling that didn't have stuff store on it. There is one room I am worried about. What do you think about putting another sheet rock, maybe 3/8th, over the existing ceiling and using lots of longer screws?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Ceilings don't fall if they are installed properly. Obviously your was installed improperly by the previous home owner.
You are best to install 1/2" shetrock or 5/8" using drywall screws placed 16" O.C. Make sure that the screw heads do not penetrate the paper surface. You an also use construction/sheetrock adhesive.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Longer screws really aren't necessary. Use screws that penetrate about an inch into the wood. No need to use 3" screws or anything like that. Like AtlanticWBConst said, be sure not to break the paper face of the rock. Any screw that breaks the paper face should be considered useless to holding that rock up. I'd imagine that the hangers of your old ceiling probably deep-drove the old screws or nails, which over time caused that ceiling to weaken to the point that it fell.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

marvinjansen said:


> It probable fell down due to previous owner storing stuff on the ceiling and then my adding blown in insulation. Bedroom is newer ceiling that didn't have stuff store on it. There is one room I am worried about. What do you think about putting another sheet rock, maybe 3/8th, over the existing ceiling and using lots of longer screws?


Everything you need to know about drywall Right Here. :thumbsup:


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Page #'s 3, 4 , and 5.


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## krankykitty (May 16, 2008)

Marvin-

I am not a pro, and I certainly don't disagree with anything they wrote here.. but usually the weight of blown in insulation is not quite enough to drop your ceiling... unless that stuff from the previous owner is/was still stored on top of it (and why do people do things like that anyway??) Now, maybe your ceiling failed for purely mechanical reasons, and if it looked a little sketchy before its final collapse that does seem possible, but...

Most of the sheetrock ceilings I have seen fall/collapse in the past have been due to some type of water damage. Before I tried to put up and new ceiling, I would get in the attic, take a flashlight, and look very closely to be absolutely sure that there isn't a leak anywhere NO MATTER HOW SMALL. Water can "travel" quite a ways running along the wood holding up your roof... I would check everything above the area that failed, looking for any water stains. If your air conditioner is up there, be sure to check around it very closely too.

Even a very small leak can destroy a ceiling over time.

And as stated above, you would be much better off going with 1/2 or even better 5/8 sheetrock for a ceiling. The 3/8 stuff will end up looking saggy.

Good luck!


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## marvinjansen (Jul 10, 2008)

*Adding 3/8 over the 1/2"*

I found another room, or 2, with cracks and nails showing. How about putting 3/8th or 1/4" rock over the existing?


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## JohnJak (Jun 28, 2008)

Glue and screw.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I would think adding more screws to the esixting might be enough to keep it up unless there is some other damage that is not visible.


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

JohnJak said:


> Glue and screw.


Onto bare ceiling joists that will work very well. 

Marvin is talking about an overylay onto the existing deteriorating ceiling. In that case the glue won't help because it will be sticking to drywall that's not secured well. 

Marvin, it really depends on a good visual evaluation of the current ceiling condition. An overlay like you describe can work well with the right length screws to get you through the new and existing drywall and into the joists. In some cases you might be able to just add screws to the existing drywall and refinish it without an overlay.

You need to figure out if the drywall itself is deteriorating or whether it's just that the fasteners (nails/screws) were overdriven driven or are pulling out of joists because of insufficient length. 

In the area where the ceiling fell are the nails/screws still in the joists? Does the fallen drywall have any stains on either side that indicate water damage?


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## marvinjansen (Jul 10, 2008)

*screws*

I just tried screws in my den and pulled it up snug. Great advice. Will try it now in son's bedroon, worst looking of all. Sheetrock seems good, just nails pulled thru. Simple fix to add screws. Using one of those Dimpler Drywall Driver by Vermont American to put it to the right depth without going too far but far enough to fill in well. Anyone use a sheetrock lift? They rent nearby for $37 a day each. Any advice?


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

If your just adding screws you shouldn't need a lift. You can probably just push it up by hand but if your arm gets tired you can build a "T" out of 2x4s with the long leg just long enough so that you can "wedge" it between the floor and the ceiling to push the drywall firmly against the joists. You'll want it long enough that it doesn't go straight vertical but rather wedges at a slight angle.


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## marvinjansen (Jul 10, 2008)

*sheetrock lift*

I will be putting up 6 sheets 12' 1/2". Just checked out the lifts at local rental, nice for only about $40 a day. the way to go.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Upon first read, I sided with krankykitty in re water damage being the culprit but as I read more, I see reference to the sheetrock being held up with nails. Oh my. So now I am inclined to think that the weight of the insulation might have had a bigger part in it than I thought.:no:


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## marvinjansen (Jul 10, 2008)

*sheet rock nails*

I think you are right about the weight of blown in insulation being a factor in the ceiling falling down.
Yesterday I was able to screw up another ceiling successfully, the screws didn't pull thru the paper. Probable 50s vintage. 
But another ceiling, put up in 1945 was another story. This one is up with nails and the screws when pulled flush go thru the paper. I am going to strip with 1x4' and rerock.


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## idsp (Jul 19, 2008)

Would like some advice if anyone can assist on this thread: 
http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=23931&highlight=sheetrock+ceiling

Thanks!


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

I agree with your original thoughts about taking it down vs trying to repair or patch the hole; had it been my choice to make for the homeowner, I would do the same. But I'd want to know why it came down in the first place so getting up there to investigate somewhat coloured my decision...

Arm yourself with a reciprocating saw and slice through the lathe-boards; it will be a messy job as you do that and remove all the wood pieces you create, plus the fallin debris from above, like those stones (?). Once done. you'll have a blank canvas to rewire, reinsulate to your hearts content.

That project would take a 2-3 man crew a day to demolish and hang new drywall and mouldings, then the next day to sand, prime and paint. Bits and pieces like the ceiling fan and the smoke detector and touching up the mouldings might be done at the same time, or perhaps the next. 

Close off the doorway with a plastic tarp, to keep the dust down elsewhere, and wear masks and hardhats.

PS: sorry I should have posted this under the original thread of yours.


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