# cutting t-style drip edge for corners or butts



## suobs (Apr 25, 2014)

This is one of those details I thought I would figure out when I got there but here I am ready to install T-style drip edge and I'm not finding the right way to cut it for bending around corners. I'm left with a gap. Same thing if I don't bend but try to butt two pieces at a 90 degree corner.

Is there a way to cut it so there is no gap and if not should the gap be sealed with caulk?

Also should the starter shingles be glued to the drip edge on rakes?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Drip edging is never caulked.
What corners are you talking about?
You are doing the lower edge first then the rakes, right?
The rake runs past the lower edge.
The drip cap needs to be started at the bottom of the rake, as you get to the peak a cut is made in the part that go's over the fascia, once it's bend mark it to match the slope of the roof and make another cut. One piece should over lap the other piece so there is no gap.
Starter strip does not need to be "glued". Cut the tabs off and have the glue strip toward the rake.


----------



## suobs (Apr 25, 2014)

I get all that but Tmtwo T-profiles meeting at a 90 degree angle. There will be a gap at the T - which is more like a 7. Just wondering if theres a neater way. Regular square profile seems much cleaner at corners when done.

Some codes required additional cement at drip edge.


----------



## Roofers Advice (Apr 26, 2014)

Here you go.


----------



## Gunther gebel (Mar 19, 2017)

Here's how I figured out how to round a 90 degree outside corner like the original poster was describing, I think. Installing from left to right, this piece goes in first. The next piece, installed 90 degrees to this one, will be cut at 45 degree angle (from above) and just overlap the folded-over end of this one. Like a dope, I didn't include a picture of how they go together. . .


----------



## paul100 (Aug 29, 2009)

Cut each piece at a 45 degree angle


----------

