# Old Craftsman floor jack



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Sounds low on oil to me. There's little to no extra capacity in the reservoir, so a little dribble a year ago and the year before that and the year before that... adds up. You can buy hydraulic jack oil at your local auto parts store. There's not much to them, but could be a pain finding the right o rings, so unless you're getting a pool under it I would check and add the oil and be done with it. If you do take anything apart you have to be careful not to lose any of the small check balls and springs and make sure to put everything back in the right order.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I agree, the oil level is the first thing I check when a hydraulic jack doesn't operate correctly. As noted they aren't hard to rebuild and if the rebuild doesn't work you've only spent a few dollars trying.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I just did a quick look and the kits are available but the ones I found are not exactly what I would call cheap (~$50). And the real challenge will be to find the exact one for my obsolete model.



mark sr said:


> I agree, the oil level is the first thing I check when a hydraulic jack doesn't operate correctly. As noted they aren't hard to rebuild and if the rebuild doesn't work you've only spent a few dollars trying.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

There is a reason it has lasted from the 70's/80's it's probably a quality piece . There's also a reason why it is cheap to replace ............ the new jacks are cheap crap ! As others have said check/add fluid and see if that fixes the problem . Most towns will have a hydraulic shop they can either match up parts for you or you can pay them to do the repair .

Yeah the repair will probably cost you more than buying a new cheap jack , but the repaired one will probably last another 40 years . And lets not forget your life comes into play here , cheap jacks and cheap jack stands have killed plenty of DIYers !!!


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

If you go to a hydraulic shop with your old O-rings you can match them up for just a few dollars. That's all that usually needs to be replaced. Not sure what the $50 kit includes.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

LOL... not so hard to find after all. This is for my specific model # 328.12002. I bet it also fits a bunch of other similar models.

https://www.amazon.com/328-12002-Craftsman-Floor-Jack-Replacement/dp/B01C7HWH90


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Here is a pic of the label. The date code I believe shows it is from 1982 (082) which makes sense. I got this when I was in the Navy in Charleston. See also on the label something you sure don't see much anymore: Made in Japan. It does need a bath!


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I just pulled the fill plug and I don't see any oil in there. I'll head to the parts store and get some jack oil later today. Hope it is just low. I don't have any puddles or obvious leaks but I'll need to clean it up and have a better look.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I have used automatic transmission fluid when I didn't have any hydraulic oil.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Yeah, top 'er off and she'll be fine. Like I said, a little here, a little there, it adds up. Probably only a drop to start with, then as the level went down the seals weren't staying lubricated so one drop became two drops, and it's a light weight and relatively clear oil so not nearly as evident as something like an oil pan drip. Glad you mentioned it though because it reminded me that I have a floor jack to replace the seals in. Bought the kit several years back and before I had a chance to do anything with it I stumbled on a too good to pass up deal on a really nice jack so that 40 or so year old Hein Werner is in the corner and just needs to be gotten going again. Just made a note and stuck in my pocket so I remember to get it out. But that one's a different story because I remember thinking that it looked like one of the seals must have somehow rolled a bit, so needs more than just a top off.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I went to the parts store and got some jack oil then filled and bled it a few times... it took about 3 ounces so it was pretty low. This is actually the first time I have ever done anything to the jack other than use it, hence I didn't have the oil on hand. I also gave it that bath. Looks much better. Then some white lithium spray on the gears and pivots.

I haven't had a chance to load test it yet but expecting it to be fine. Otherwise I may have to spring for that kit although the main part it might need is the rubber or plastic piston plunger... that might be leaking by at high pressures. I watched part of a youtube by a guy breaking down and installing new seals and plunger in an almost identical jack. Doesn't look too difficult so if need be I'll probably do that.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I have a Craftsman of that same era that i haven't used for about 30 years and that was when a co-worker stopped by with a flat. I probably should try finding it in the clutter and check it out. Those little fellers are sure handy when needed.


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## Rough Rooster (Feb 7, 2015)

Glad it was just a simple low oil situation!

Kit install is simple enough. You do need a large wrench (usually a 2 1/4" and a good way to hold jack. I made the 2 1/4" socket and use my hydraulic press to hold the jack while loosening/tightening the barrel nut. ( had one that was tightened to about 800 ft lbs) Took a 6' cheater and my 220# to break it loose.
Kits are available from Lazaar Jack and their service is great.
I have rebuilt 5 floor jacks in the past 8 months.
Just pay close attention to where the springs and balls go!

Number two son just brought me the ram from his 40T press to reseal. I will have to use tractor and loader to handle it as the ram weighs 250 -300#

RR :smile::smile:


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

The other downside to these old jacks is they are too high profile for my car (Vette). So I still may replace it with a low profile one and repurpose this one to the farm or to a friend... or to Mom's house. I have a QuickJack setup I use for the Vette but once in awhile a simple floor jack would be easier to use but this one just won't go under.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Yes, in the video the guy had a 24" adjustable wrench and a long cheater. I don't have anything that big. I do have some iron pipe I use for a cheater but it is only 2 or 3 feet so might not be long enough for this sucker. Which reminds me of the first time I ever used a cheater, on the castle nuts on a VW bug. But the method I came up with was even better, put the tool on the car with the end of the lever on the ground then back the car up. Only way we could get those things off!



Rough Rooster said:


> Glad it was just a simple low oil situation!
> 
> Kit install is simple enough. You do need a large wrench (usually a 2 1/4" and a good way to hold jack. I made the 2 1/4" socket and use my hydraulic press to hold the jack while loosening/tightening the barrel nut. ( had one that was tightened to about 800 ft lbs) Took a 6' cheater and my 220# to break it loose.
> Kits are available from Lazaar Jack and their service is great.
> ...


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> The other downside to these old jacks is they are too high profile for my car


Yesterday I painted my grandson's car. I told him to jack it up, take the wheels off and set it on stands. If the car set a little taller I wouldn't have to bend over as much along with not having to cover up the wheels. Neither or my floor jacks would slide under his car


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

The saddle on this old jack sits at just about 5" from the ground. The rocker of my car is at about 5 3/4". But you need to use pucks between the jack and the car's jack points so there really isn't any clearance at all. Not sure what kind of car your grandson has but the jacking points might be hard to reach and may need pucks like mine. Low profile steel jacks go down to about 3". Low profile aluminum ones go down to about 3 3/4". If I get one it'll be the steel version for the lower profile.

For general wheel off maintenance and such, to include painting and waxing a QuickJack is the ticket. It will lift the car up about 22" which is easier on our old backs for sure. i don't always put it up to wax it but it does make it easier.






mark sr said:


> Yesterday I painted my grandson's car. I told him to jack it up, take the wheels off and set it on stands. If the car set a little taller I wouldn't have to bend over as much along with not having to cover up the wheels. Neither or my floor jacks would slide under his car


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I think it's a Honda and I doubt it sets at a factory ride height. As wide as the wheels are I'm surprised they don't scrub. My floor jacks don't have any issues with any of MY vehicles; Corolla, Jeep and lifted F100. Except for racing I've never understood lowering a vehicle!


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Well, no joy with the jack... he is just done. I Tried to jack the front of the Tacoma up to replace an oxygen sensor (a bit of a long and confusing story, read here if interested: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/99-000-miles-first-code.678800/) and it would only barely begin to unweight the tires with a very mushy feel to the pumping action. It only lifted the frame maybe 3 inches. 

LOL... I edited this to say I just canceled the jack order I had listed. I need to do more research. What turned me off at last was one guy posted that it would not go under his Vette. Now maybe he was trying to get at one of inner jack points which you can only reach with an extended version but those things are huge and weigh like tanks. But if it isn't really as low as the spec it would not work for me.

Not sure if I will hassle with rebuilding the old Craftsman. It does have some sentimental value... but fixing everything that has sentimental value will flat wear you out. ;-)


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I don't know how you bled it, but before you shelve it, try this if you haven't already... Close the valve as if you were going to jack it up, but don't use the jack handle, instead, pull it to the raised position manually, either by hand or with a lever. Watch your fingers, but unless you have a really bad seal it should stay in the raised position or close to it. Then put a load on it, either stand on it or some sort of dead ballast, and then open the valve so that it lowers. The faster it lowers the better. Try that about three times. If it won't stay raised at all, or if it drops fully each time you open the valve, you most likely have a seal that needs to be replaced. If it stays until you open the valve, or if it seems to improve with each cycle, it's more likely that you have air or a piece of dirt in the system, and subsequent tries might resolve it.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Hello... that did the trick! I pulled the cradle up by hand a few times and "pumped" the cradle (not the handle) up and down a few times when near the top and it went higher each time. Stayed up on its own and easily held my weight so I took it out and jacked the rear of my truck up at the pumpkin... perfect. One thing you can say for sure: Dexter does knows jack!


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Great. They tell me even a blind squirrel can find a nut sometimes! Forgot to mention, and maybe you already have, but check the oil again and top off if needed. Won't take much but if it was an air pocket you might need to add a bit.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Yup, I checked it and it was still full. That little plastic plug is a bear to get back in. I wish it was made of rubber... or instead was a screw.

I had bled it by cycling it multiple times with the plastic plug removed. The youtube I followed was for a similar Craftsman jack and the guy did it with the lift handle valve fully shut. Most others show doing it with the valve open. Maybe I should have done it with the valve open? But this alternate way of lifting the cradle by hand was easy enough.



DexterII said:


> Great. They tell me even a blind squirrel can find a nut sometimes! Forgot to mention, and maybe you already have, but check the oil again and top off if needed. Won't take much but if it was an air pocket you might need to add a bit.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

If you need a low profile jack, check out Harbor Freight. They have some models on clearance that are 3 ton. 

Yeah, I know HF. But, some of their stuff is good. And for how often you use it, you don't want to spend a lot of money. 

Besides, a lot of their stuff, especially their hand tools, are pretty good.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I know... and go figure, I literally JUST went there to have a look around. Their Daytona jacks look decent. I would probably buy one of these except that the cradle is tiny. It may not be obvious from the picture but it seems like less than 4" across. Note the specs don't even list that dimension. I wonder why? ;-) I am used to my old Craftsman with the huge round cradle that works great lifting by the pumpkin. And it doesn't look like there is clearance to simply bolt on a bigger cradle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-green-64784.html

Then I go to their Super Duty model that has a nice sized cradle 4 7/8", but that one is 30 pounds heavier, like 110 pounds total. My current Craftsman feels a tank at 90ish pounds.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-63183.html

And frequency of use isn't really relevant. It just needs to work when I have a job to do. To me it's worth paying for a little more quality... which seems hard to find in jacks these days.




ktownskier said:


> If you need a low profile jack, check out Harbor Freight. They have some models on clearance that are 3 ton.
> 
> Yeah, I know HF. But, some of their stuff is good. And for how often you use it, you don't want to spend a lot of money.
> 
> Besides, a lot of their stuff, especially their hand tools, are pretty good.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

My first HF jack [2.25 ton] lasted about 30 yrs although I did replace the O rings after about 25 yrs. I replaced it with a HF jack that I had replaced under warranty after a month or so. That was 3-4 yrs ago. I got the regular 3 ton jack. Never saw the need for the low profile until I painted my grandson's car. We intended to remove the wheels but my jack wouldn't slide under his car.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

There are some *really* low profile jacks out there with min heights like 2.5" that might work for your situation. The downside to those is if like me you also have higher vehicles since these jacks also don't lift as high. I need one jack that fits both vehicles. So I am leaning towards one with a 3.5" min height. With a rubber puck it'll just fit under the car and still get the truck usefully high.



mark sr said:


> My first HF jack [2.25 ton] lasted about 30 yrs although I did replace the O rings after about 25 yrs. I replaced it with a HF jack that I had replaced under warranty after a month or so. That was 3-4 yrs ago. I got the regular 3 ton jack. Never saw the need for the low profile until I painted my grandson's car. We intended to remove the wheels but my jack wouldn't slide under his car.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I don't intend to buy a low profile jack, don't need one for any of my vehicles. IMO if my grandson needs a low profile jack because he wants to drive something that sets too close to the ground - he can buy the jack.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Exactly. Dad blamed millennials! ;-)




mark sr said:


> I don't intend to buy a low profile jack, don't need one for any of my vehicles. IMO if my grandson needs a low profile jack because he wants to drive something that sets too close to the ground - he can buy the jack.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

I just rebuilt my 1986 Craftsman floor jack and an old Walker J-121 floor jack. The craftsman was pretty easy, came apart without much problem. Found the main seal had a couple small splits in it. The jack had been working fine and then all of a sudden it started settling down about as fast as I could pump it up. Only added oil to it one time probably 20 years ago, otherwise it's always worked.

I clamped the hydraulic unit in the big vise and used an old 24" pipe wrench. Barely leaned on it and the nut spun loose, didn't even leave a mark on the nut. I wasn't going to try too hard with the pipe wrench, I have plenty of large sockets at work but the nut came off with no problem. The inside of the jack looked like new. It's always been in my shop since the day it was new, never been left outside so no rust inside or out. The seal kit fit great and the jack works like new again.

The Walker I got from a friend who purchased a block of garage items from an estate. It looked pretty decent from the outside, but had some noticeable wear inside. It didn't work at all so I added oil, bled it and got it working, but then it wouldn't hold a load. The shaft was a little scarred and pitted, I polished it some but could not take enough to make it perfect. The inner cylinder was nearly perfect, so figure the piston should hold up fine. The walker was more difficult to take apart and the nut was very tight. I had to buy a 1.5" impact socket and cut ears on it to make a tool to remove the tank nut. Have a 3/4" impact and once I made the socket, it hammered the nut off easily. Both kits and shipping was just over $100, but for that I gained two more working jacks. Always handy to have at least two, so I have five. Keep two in the garage at home and three at my shop, use all of them pretty often.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Ah... the luxury of space. In my townhouse 1-car garage floor jacks are like the Highlander from the TV show. There can be only one!



iamrfixit said:


> Always handy to have at least two, so I have five. Keep two in the garage at home and three at my shop, use all of them pretty often.


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