# Leaky apron flashing below dormer



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Hard to tell with a close up where your looking.
If it's the flashing where the wall meets the roof there should not be a gap.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Take a picture from further back and where is the leak showing?


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

Here is a photo from farther out. The leak is showing where the nail comes through inside the attic.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If it is come through the nail hole only (that is not the most prevalent leak area on most dormers), it can be sealed and with a bit of caulking and a new nail.


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

So just put a new nail in and some caulking on top? That's it?

Thanks!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If that is where the leak is from, yes.

Caulk behind the nail before you put it in.


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

Thank you for the advice.


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

I just verified with a water hose - that is definitely where the leak is coming from. One last question - should the edge of that flashing be sealed with caulk, or is it supposed to be open to let anything that gets under there drain?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

eholmes77 said:


> I just verified with a water hose - that is definitely where the leak is coming from. One last question - should the edge of that flashing be sealed with caulk, or is it supposed to be open to let anything that gets under there drain?


 Only caulk the nail! I'd put a dab under the flashing after pulling that nail to seal that specific spot only, before adding a new one, then caulk the new nail head. You probably need to 'toenail' the new one in, at an angle to either side you prefer.


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

Thanks, Frank!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Windows on Wash said:


> If that is where the leak is from, yes.
> 
> Caulk behind the nail before you put it in.





tinner666 said:


> Only caulk the nail! I'd put a dab under the flashing after pulling that nail to seal that specific spot only, before adding a new one, then caulk the new nail head. You probably need to 'toenail' the new one in, at an angle to either side you prefer.


What...is there an echo in here. 

Oh...I get it. Because Tinner says it...it must be right. 

What...am I chopped liver!!!

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

Haha. I am indebted to both of you... Unless my roof keeps leaking!


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Unless it keeps leaking then sue them for misinformation!

I say put a dab of caulk under the flashing in the location of the nail hole. Add a new nail at a slight angle, up down left right doesn't matter just so you hit new wood and the nail will hold. Then caulk the nail head. Use a good caulking, not silicone, that is for bathrooms, get a urethane caulk like NP-1. There are other brands but that's what we use the chemical make up is more important then the brand. 

Now that will be $37.95 PM me for where you can send the check!


:laughing:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

1985gt said:


> Unless it keeps leaking then sue them for misinformation!
> 
> I say put a dab of caulk under the flashing in the location of the nail hole. Add a new nail at a slight angle, up down left right doesn't matter just so you hit new wood and the nail will hold. Then caulk the nail head. Use a good caulking, not silicone, that is for bathrooms, get a urethane caulk like NP-1. There are other brands but that's what we use the chemical make up is more important then the brand.
> 
> ...


I will only need...


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Not to change the subject....lol. does that flashing extend under/above/behind that siding bottom edge... do I see a definite horizontal line 1/4" below the siding that is full of old caulking (that is NA if extended behind)?

Gary


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## eholmes77 (Feb 12, 2014)

That dirty white board I think you're referring to is basically a window sill tilted at an angle to drain water away from the window, and then the flashing tucks up underneath it (part of the flashing is painted the house's yellowish color to blend in). The caulk looks solid and the sill should carry water well away from the top edge of the flashing, I think. Does something not look right to you? I might as well goop that edge up with extra caulk, I guess.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Ah, the window, as pictured... lol. I would install a 1/4 round trim of cedar under the window sill, bedded in new caulking (after removing old). then add a bead of caulk on the bottom edge of vertical edge there for a drip-edge so water doesn't travel under/back to the trim board (similar to on a deck ledger board bottom to keep water from house siding wicking). Look much better, also. OTOH, if not leaking there, leave it be.

Gary


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