# What to buy to connect propane tank to gas range



## Yodaman

First, is your gas range set up for propane? Do not connect a propane tank to a
range set up natural gas.


----------



## TheEplumber

Propane will not work on a gas appliance. You also need to permit this work and I doubt an inspector will allow such an install as you describe.


----------



## homeby5

Yes my range will be setup for propane. AFAIK, basically all new gas ranges can use either LP or NG. Thanks


----------



## Yodaman

homeby5 said:


> Yes my range will be setup for propane. AFAIK, basically all new gas ranges can use either LP or NG. Thanks



with modifications, its not a "either or" right out of the box


----------



## GrayHair

At a minimum, orifice size is different. IIRC, other items may also have to be replaced/adjusted. It's beem a loooooong time.


----------



## danpik

^^^^^^^pressure regulator as well. 

Also, in most areas and my be in all areas, you can not work with CSST unless you are certified. I suspect there is more to this story that you are telling us. Any Propane supplier can provide the expert installation service you need to have this done safely.


----------



## homeby5

Guys, you are getting WAY too deep and going off the rails. What information or "story" is being withheld. I simply asked for information regarding the adapters to connect a gas range to a propane tank. I am fully aware that I need to change orifices and regulators. It's self explained in the instructions for my range. 
Anyway, I called the maker of the CSST and there fittings are standard pipe threads so all I need is a pipe thread to flare adapter on the tank end and a flexible gas range connection kit on the Range end. No biggie...
I expected common sense simple answers like I usually get from here but somewhere it turned into rocket science and lectures on training and permits. Just so you know, I am building a house, with legal owner/builder permits that allow me to do all of the work. Not that this matters regarding the thread question....
Anyway, thanks for the replies and no other info is needed.


----------



## beenthere

You will need a reg at the tank. Tank pressure will be too high for the range.


----------



## homeby5

beenthere said:


> You will need a reg at the tank. Tank pressure will be too high for the range.


I believe the range has a regulator that can accept propane or NG. I only have to turn it around depending on the source gas that it used...


----------



## beenthere

homeby5 said:


> I believe the range has a regulator that can accept propane or NG. I only have to turn it around depending on the source gas that it used...


The range doesn't have a reg to knock 50PSIG down to 11" PSIG. On a home with a LP/propane tank. The tank has a reg to lower the pressure to 10PSIG, then there is a house/secondary reg, that reduces the 10 PSIG pressure down to 12" or less. You need a tank reg to bring the pressure down to a safe and steady pressure. Or you will destroy your range, and possibly house.

The LP tank at a temp of 15°F will have a pressure of 37PSIG, at 80°F the pressure will be 130PSIG.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

All pressure regulators aren't created equal so may I suggest reading the literature to be certain the range regulator can tolerate the pressure produced by an un-regulated propane tank which can be very different than the pressure supplied by a NG supplier.


----------



## Colbyt

Every propane system I ever saw had a regulator at the tank. From 100 to 1000 gallons. The one at the tank is in addition to the one inside the stove.

Please take the time to do it right. Propane does not rise and float away like NG as it it heavier.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Colbyt said:


> Every propane system I ever saw had a regulator at the tank. From 100 to 1000 gallons. The one at the tank is in addition to the one inside the stove.
> 
> Please take the time to do it right. Propane does not rise and float away like NG as it it heavier.


Correct as long as the leak is outdoors. If a leak is indoors it doesn't matter much. NG fills the house from the ceiling down and propane from the lower level upwards. In either instance when the correct air to fuel ratio is achieved with an ignition source there is usually a loud boom and the roof lands in a neighbor's yard.


----------



## Yodaman

Colby is correct, A typical installation would have a tank outside, with a line run to the house. A regulator just outside the house with a shut off, ( I believe this is all installed by a LP dealer at no cost with a usage contract). From the shut off you can run standard black iron gas line to the stove. Distance and btu at the point of use determines line size. There are charts available for LP that will dictate. LP working pressure is much higher than NG so typically lines are smaller. For a range, 1/2" or smaller I would guess.


----------



## danpik

homeby5 said:


> Guys, you are getting WAY too deep and going off the rails. What information or "story" is being withheld. I simply asked for information regarding the adapters to connect a gas range to a propane tank. I am fully aware that I need to change orifices and regulators. It's self explained in the instructions for my range.
> Anyway, I called the maker of the CSST and there fittings are standard pipe threads so all I need is a pipe thread to flare adapter on the tank end and a flexible gas range connection kit on the Range end. No biggie...
> I expected common sense simple answers like I usually get from here but somewhere it turned into rocket science and lectures on training and permits. Just so you know, I am building a house, with legal owner/builder permits that allow me to do all of the work. Not that this matters regarding the thread question....
> Anyway, thanks for the replies and no other info is needed.



Please accept my apology. The way the first couple of posts read to me was you were trying to connect a tank and stove to an existing service and not install a new one. To answer one of your questions,...No, you do not connect the CSST directly to the stove. You need to terminate the CSST near the location of the stove and use a proper flexible connection hose. You will also need to properly bond the CSST. As I mentioned earlier, the suppliers of this material, at least in my area, offer training on the installation before you can purchase it. With that training you can be assured of a safe install.

As far as the..._*somewhere it turned into rocket science and lectures on training and permit*_s. This forum has a lot of industry pro's on it who take time out of their busy day to offer advice here. It is not that they want to lecture you on this but, many have seen dangerous installs and want to make sure the things you do are proper. I, firsthand, have felt, literately felt, the effect of a house propane explosion that was a mile from me last year.I was in the yard when I heard/felt the shock wave travel thru my yard. The fire department did not have much to do when they got there as there was nothing left but a foundation


----------



## homeby5

No problem. The thread just seemed to be getting derailed from it's original intent. No worries.

Yes I plan on hooking a dual output regulator to the tanks (I plan on using two with a switchable regulator). My tanks will be outside on my porch where my grill is. I will look at my range specs to make sure the regulator is properly sized (I believe they are adjustable). Then I will run about 10 feet of 3/4 CSST (instead of black iron) and then connect the CSST to a shutoff valve and then to a flexible hose going straight to the range. I spoke to the maker of the CSST and he informed me that their fittings were standard pipe threads. I will bond the CSST. Does all this sound right?


----------



## funflyer

I'm in the process of ridding myself of the local propane company as we speak. What I will add to the suggestions so far is to make sure that you purchase a good 2 stage regulator, not one of those pot metal chinese ones that will fail and they all do eventually. I bought a compact 2 stg regulator made by Rego (USA) and is what the propane companies use on home installs. There are also distance requirements from ignition sources, windows, AC compressors and crawl space openings so you might want to check with the local propane company to know those. Here's a link to what I bought and got the regulator, pigtail and 2 fittings for about 50 bucks shipped.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261914597096?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## homeby5

This looks perfect! Let me ask....does the fittings that come with it connect directly into a standard 20# or 30# tank? It looks like the input is 1/4" and the output is 1/2" right? 
Thanks for the info!!


----------



## funflyer

homeby5 said:


> This looks perfect! Let me ask....does the fittings that come with it connect directly into a standard 20# or 30# tank? It looks like the input is 1/4" and the output is 1/2" right?
> Thanks for the info!!


Yes, it should work with your standard 20# and 30# tanks as long as your OPD shutoff valves have the female POL threads which most do. I have two 20# BBQ tanks and the pigtail and regulator will connect to both but I only plan to use those as a backup if my 100# tank ever runs out. 

The fittings on the pigtail are POL on both ends. The regulator is POL inlet, 1/2" pipe outlet and the seller includes both a 1/2" and 3/8" flare fitting to hook up either size tubing. I only use the propane stove in my house since I installed a pellet stove for heat and over the last year I have only used 10 gallons of propane and we use the stove/oven a lot.

Attached are some better pictures of the regulator and fittings along with a pic of the OPD valve on a 20# tank.


----------



## jomama45

Have you considered calling a local propane supplier? The reason I ask is that ours will supply us with 2- 100# tanks, the regulator, and everything else needed to get the gas into the house. They will also stop and fill the tanks, although it's a little more per gallonn than bulk tanks, but it's still cheaper than a tank exchange, with none of the hassle......


----------



## homeby5

funflyer said:


> Yes, it should work with your standard 20# and 30# tanks as long as your OPD shutoff valves have the female POL threads which most do. I have two 20# BBQ tanks and the pigtail and regulator will connect to both but I only plan to use those as a backup if my 100# tank ever runs out.
> 
> The fittings on the pigtail are POL on both ends. The regulator is POL inlet, 1/2" pipe outlet and the seller includes both a 1/2" and 3/8" flare fitting to hook up either size tubing. I only use the propane stove in my house since I installed a pellet stove for heat and over the last year I have only used 10 gallons of propane and we use the stove/oven a lot.
> 
> Attached are some better pictures of the regulator and fittings along with a pic of the OPD valve on a 20# tank.


Just bought one from Ebay also. Thanks for your advice and for doing the work for me :wink2:


----------



## rjniles

Here is my setup. 2 tanks, auto changeover regulator. Regulator has Acme pigtails vs POL, for toolless tank changes. Normally I have 2-30 pound tanks but I hook up partial 20's to run them dry.
2 half inch flex copper lines feed my kitchen range and a small porch space heater.


----------

