# Snowblower help.



## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Replace the drive belt. That was the rubber smell you remember.

If you have the manual for the machine the instructions for doing this are in there.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I actually did get a new belt and put it on. It seems that when I engage the auger, the belt is still a little loose, which doesn't allow the impeller to turn. The old belt looked alright, but I still changed it. I don't have the manuel, but I think I found one online. I used the correct belt and wouldn't be able to get a smaller belt on there, but it seems like a smaller belt would work.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

In addition you can adjust the cable length from the level arm to the idler pulley. This will seat the belt more firmly.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Make sure the belt is the correct width. If it is too narrow, it will ride too low in the pulleys and slip.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

yeah, I tried that too. Is there some kind of conversion kit that I can get to change the belt system to one of those with the kinks in it, so there is more grip?


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

47_47 said:


> Make sure the belt is the correct width. If it is too narrow, it will ride too low in the pulleys and slip.


it's the same size that was on the machine when it was working. the weird thing is that the belt that was on the machine, when it was working and then stopped, didn't look bad at all. In fact, it looks like a new belt.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

joeg679 said:


> it's the same size that was on the machine when it was working. the weird thing is that the belt that was on the machine, when it was working and then stopped, didn't look bad at all. In fact, it looks like a new belt.


Do you get any belt noise or burning smell with the auger engaged? I had an old craftsman and the shear pins didn't look broken. They were rusted in place and looked fine. Put a wrench on the head of the bolt and give them a turn.

Added: Do both the impeller and auger stop, or just the auger?


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I did get a burnt rubber smell, but the belt looks ok, however I did change it. If the auger doesn't turn freely, doesn't that mean that the shear pins are fine?


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

joeg679 said:


> I did get a burnt rubber smell, but the belt looks ok, however I did change it. If the auger doesn't turn freely, doesn't that mean that the shear pins are fine?


Not necessarily, water will get between the shaft and auger and rust, making the shaft hard to turn by hand. Put a wrench on the bolt heads and see if the exposed threads turn.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I just tried the bolts and they work. It definitely looks like the belt is not tight enough, but I am using the same size that I was using when it worked. Is it possible that something got out of whack and now it won't keep the belt on tight?


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Check all of your pulleys, to make sure that you didn't accidently knock a spring loose, or something like that. Then, and I'm not sure if you were replying to Jack or 47 a little bit ago, so not to be redundant, but did you check the linkage, and adjust it as needed, after replacing the belt?


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Can you post a pic of the belt routing and how it sits in the pulleys?


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I appreciate all your help, guys. I took a pic of the belt. The round part that the belt is wrapped around it very tough to turn by hand. i feel like if this turned easier, then the belt wouldn't just spin around without engaging that round shaft, like it is now. I tried wd-40 and it doesn't do anything.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

pic didn't attach.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

When you engage the auger, how loose is the belt?


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

it tightens up and engages that wheel, but as soon as it hits even a little snow, it just spins around the wheel and stops engaging it.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

At this point, I believe that I would start removing some sheet metal, to see if some of that newspaper is wadded up in there where you can't see it. Could also be a seized gear box, or something like that, but since you said this began right after you sucked up the newspaper, I am more inclined to lean in that direction. It is very possible that it slowed the auger down enough initially to cause the snow to stall it, and that gave some of the paper to end up in a bad spot.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I just started the snowblower up again and it seems that when I press down the handle, the belt turns the auger and impeller, but as soon as it hits snow, the auger stops and the belt stops turning altogether. I hadn't started it in a while and I thought that I remembered the belt spinning still, but it stops turning. Also, I was having a hard time stopping the machine, it kept running and the only way to stop it was to keep screwing with the throttle until it shut off. Any idea why the belt would totally stop and/or why it won't shut off?


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> just started the snowblower up again and it seems that when I press down the handle, the belt turns the auger and impeller, but as soon as it hits snow, the auger stops and the belt stops turning altogether.


Ayuh,... You need a New belt....


> Also, I was having a hard time stopping the machine, it kept running and the only way to stop it was to keep screwing with the throttle until it shut off.


The Ground is loose on the shut-down switch...


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I'm using a new belt. Do I need a smaller one? I read on another forum that it may be the 2nd stage impeller pins, that may be broken. It's too dark out to try anything now, but tomorrow I am going to see if I can find them. I have the thing in half, right now.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

joeg679 said:


> Hello, I am having a problem with my snowblower and I was wondering if someone could maybe tell me what is wrong, before I call someone and pay them 60 bucks whether they can fix it or not. I was cleaning a neighbor's driveway last year when I sucked up his newspaper. I smelled something burning and just put the blower away. I tried to use it a few weeks later and it worked but then stopped. The auger turns and the impeller spins, but as soon as it hits any snow they stop. I checked the shear pins and they are ok. It is a Craftsman snowblower and it's about 13 years old. Any ideas as to what is happening? Thanks a lot.


Funny...the same thing happened to my Ariens last year. I plowed through a paper and saw shreds coming out and stopped it. I removed some paper here and there, but didn't clear it thoroughly enough. When I started the snow thrower again, some paper got caught in the impeller and stalled my machine. It was freezing outside and it was impossible to back the impeller up in order to remove the frozen paper. Luckily, I figured to try using a utility knife to cut out the shreds that were jamming the impeller, and it worked.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

47_47 said:


> Not necessarily, water will get between the shaft and auger and rust, making the shaft hard to turn by hand. Put a wrench on the bolt heads and see if the exposed threads turn.


That's probably why there are zerk fittings on the auger to decrease friction and proctect it from rust.

Speaking of which, what's the easiest way to reinstall a zerk fitting. I was greasing my fittings last year and one came out. I don't want to pull the entire auger out because I could accidentally compress the auger shaft too much and the axle won't fit back in.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

joeg679 said:


> I just started the snowblower up again and it seems that when I press down the handle, the belt turns the auger and impeller, but as soon as it hits snow, the auger stops and the belt stops turning altogether. I hadn't started it in a while and I thought that I remembered the belt spinning still, but it stops turning. Also, I was having a hard time stopping the machine, it kept running and the only way to stop it was to keep screwing with the throttle until it shut off. Any idea why the belt would totally stop and/or why it won't shut off?


It's probably your transmission (clutch) slipping where you may need to replace the friction discs which do have rubber and could be what you smelled burning.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Ok. Thanks. Do you know how much friction discs cost, about?


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

joeg679 said:


> Ok. Thanks. Do you know how much friction discs cost, about?


Looking at this manual (pg. 293+), it looks like the main cause is probably your belt slipping, not friction discs (which drive the snow thrower). 

http://books.google.com/books?id=-bEBXd7oUokC&pg=PA293&lpg=PA293&dq=friction+disc,+drives+auger&source=bl&ots=djd4jyCZWm&sig=Np-SPD9gMFx8pOOk5n_YGP1nNrs&hl=en&ei=h6saTbKDJYLGlQfa7_2sDA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CBwQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=friction%20disc%2C%20drives%20auger&f=false

Since your belt is not tight...probably an issue with the idler pulley/clutch.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> I just started the snowblower up again and it seems that *when I press down the handle, the belt turns the auger and impeller, but as soon as it hits snow, the auger stops and the belt stops turning altogether.* I hadn't started it in a while and I thought that I remembered the belt spinning still, but it stops turning. Also, I was having a hard time stopping the machine, it kept running and the only way to stop it was to keep screwing with the throttle until it shut off. Any idea why the belt would totally stop and/or why it won't shut off?


Does the engine bog down when you hit snow, or does it keep running at full speed?

If the engine keeps running at full throttle, I'd sure think that your belt simply isn't tight enough when engaged.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

The engine seems to be running at the same speed, it's just that the wheel with the belt and auger stops turning as soon as it hits snow. Can I rule out the problem being the 2nd stage impeller pins? I don't even know if my machine has those. Should I get a shorter belt and try that? Like I said, it's the same size as the one that worked. The wheel with the belt on it is very hard to turn. Is this normal?


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> The engine seems to be running at the same speed, it's just that the wheel with the belt and auger stops turning as soon as it hits snow. Can I rule out the problem being the 2nd stage impeller pins? I don't even know if my machine has those. Should I get a shorter belt and try that? Like I said, it's the same size as the one that worked. The wheel with the belt on it is very hard to turn. Is this normal?


When you say "wheel" I assume you mean "pulley."

And when you say the pulley stops turning, which pulley are you talking about?

If it's the pulley attached to the engine, then you have somehow either lost or split the key stock. There will be about a 3/16th inch square groove in both the drive shaft off the engine, and pulley attached to it. The little square thing that goes in there is the key stock. Check that.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

When the mechanism stops when it hits snow, which wheels and pulleys (closer to the engine) keep turning and which wheels and pulleys (closer to the auger) stop turning?

Does the belt itself keep rolling or does it stop?


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Is there another name for the Key stock? When I google it, all I get pictures of are the red key that goes into the engine. I don't think that is what you are talking about. In the pic I posted, the wheel or pully that stops turning is the one with the belt around it that looks to be a little loose, the one that is closer to the auger. The belt does not keep turning. When I engage the auger, it will start the impeller and throw very little snow and as soon as it hits a few inches, it stops altogether.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> Is there another name for the Key stock? When I google it, all I get pictures of are the red key that goes into the engine. I don't think that is what you are talking about. In the pic I posted, the wheel or pully that stops turning is the one with the belt around it that looks to be a little loose, the one that is closer to the auger. The belt does not keep turning. When I engage the auger, it will start the impeller and throw very little snow and as soon as it hits a few inches, it stops altogether.


Okay... First of all, here is a picture of keystock. Most are straight, but some are half-moon, such as the one in the picture.










Second, the pulley situation... There is a pulley mounted to your engine. It has a bolt on the end of it, holding it to the shaft of the engine. The keystock will be inside that pulley, between the pulley and shaft.

Does THAT pulley stop turning when you hit snow?

If the pulley on the engine stops turning, your keystock is gone, or (possible) worse.

If that pulley continues to spin even though the blower itself stops, I'd say your belt is still not tight enough.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Since your motor pulley is still rotating (and the belt and other things downstream have stopped) it looks like the belt is still too loose.

Are there adjustments to the linkage that connects the handle levers to the idler wheels and other parts down below so by pulling the lever on the handlebars the belt becomes tighther and doesn't slip?

For example the handlebar lever connects to a cable with a screw in sleeve halfway down.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

DrHicks said:


> Okay... First of all, here is a picture of keystock. Most are straight, but some are half-moon, such as the one in the picture.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, that is the pulley that stops. So the keystock is found in the gearbox attached to the auger? So, I guess I need to take that apart and see if that is broken? Again, i really appreciate EVERYONE'S help with this.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> Yes, that is the pulley that stops. So the keystock is found in the gearbox attached to the auger? So, I guess I need to take that apart and see if that is broken? Again, i really appreciate EVERYONE'S help with this.


So, to clarify for my own thick skull... The pulley attached to the engine stops when you hit the snow?

As I look more closely at that pulley, I'm thinking it's possible that it is NOT a typical key stock shaft & pulley setup. It looks as though it might be a slip-clutch of sorts - where the pulley is tightened into the collar on the shaft.


So... Tighten that hex bolt on the end of the shaft. See what that does. 

If the bolt won't tighten, I'd suggest removing it and slowly taking that pulley apparatus apart. I think that's the source of your problem.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

DrHicks said:


> So, to clarify for my own thick skull... The pulley attached to the engine stops when you hit the snow?
> 
> As I look more closely at that pulley, I'm thinking it's possible that it is NOT a typical key stock shaft & pulley setup. It looks as though it might be a slip-clutch of sorts - where the pulley is tightened into the collar on the shaft.
> 
> ...


I'm sure that I am doing a horrible job of explaining it, but the pulley that stops is connected directly to the auger and impeller shaft. That stops once the auger hits snow. I actually have the whole thing apart, and the friction wheel looks to be ok. What should I look for, now that it's apart? I also have that pulley apart too.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> I'm sure that I am doing a horrible job of explaining it, but the pulley that stops is connected directly to the auger and impeller shaft. That stops once the auger hits snow. I actually have the whole thing apart, and the friction wheel looks to be ok. What should I look for, now that it's apart? I also have that pulley apart too.


Sorry. I misunderstood you.


Turn the pulley (by hand) that is attached to the auger and impeller. Does it turn freely? 

Then wedge something in the auger/impeller so it will NOT turn. Does the big pulley still turn? If yes, you have sheer pins broken, or something else.


If you have the auger & impeller housing & chute detached from the power unit, you should be able to isolate your problem from there.


I'm still suspicious of your belt tension. 


Anyway, sorry I can't be more help. Without seeing it, I'm kind of shooting in the dark.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

DrHicks said:


> Sorry. I misunderstood you.
> 
> 
> Turn the pulley (by hand) that is attached to the auger and impeller. Does it turn freely?
> ...



Isn't the belt tension controlled by the idler pulley and adjusted via the clutch?

http://books.google.com/books?id=-b...onepage&q=friction disc, drives auger&f=false


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I haven't had time to look at it, the past few days. I'm gonna check it out tomorrow and report back.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

handy man88 said:


> Isn't the belt tension controlled by the idler pulley and adjusted via the clutch?
> 
> http://books.google.com/books?id=-b...onepage&q=friction disc, drives auger&f=false


Yeah, that's more or less it. I guess I wouldn't call it a clutch, but it does the same thing as a clutch.

There seems to be kind of a "sweet spot" in the idler pulley adjustment. Too tight and the auger/blower assembly won't shut off. Too loose and it just doesn't operate under load.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> I haven't had time to look at it, the past few days. I'm gonna check it out tomorrow and report back.


Just to let you know... We had sunny & 63 in Omaha yesterday. 

Yeah - I know. I'll pay dearly for being a smart alec!



As I continue to think about this, I wouldn't be surprised if your sheer pins/roll pins on the blower are broken (which is what they're supposed to do if a foreign object gets stuck in the blower). Mere friction will make the blower turn when it's not under load. 


Let us know what you find!


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

If the shear pins down in the lower body are broken, the pulleys and belt will keep going and just the auger (and/or paddle/impeller) will stop.

In some cases the belt idler is on a crankshaft (cranks back and forth no more than about 90 degrees) that goes to the lower back where a cable connects to the handlebar lever. The idler tension is adjusted by adjusting the cable.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I checked the shear pins and they are ok. I read online that it could be the 2nd stage shear pins, which look to be located near the impeller, but I have yet to find them. It should be 46 degrees, here in NJ, today so that will make it easier to work outside on it. Wow, 63 degrees in December, that's crazy.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

joeg679 said:


> I checked the shear pins and they are ok. I read online that it could be the 2nd stage shear pins, which look to be located near the impeller, but I have yet to find them. It should be 46 degrees, here in NJ, today so that will make it easier to work outside on it. Wow, 63 degrees in December, that's crazy.


Make sure you clear paths along swales due to potential of mass melt/flooding....especially if the NE gets rain like it's supposed to this weekend.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> I checked the shear pins and they are ok. I read online that it could be the 2nd stage shear pins, which look to be located near the impeller, but I have yet to find them. It should be 46 degrees, here in NJ, today so that will make it easier to work outside on it. Wow, 63 degrees in December, that's crazy.


New Joisey, huhh? This was NOT a good week to have your snowblower out of commission was it?!?! 


Again, I don't know your snowblower so my advice is purely speculation. However, it is possible that your auger is running and the blower is not. From the little I've seen with the Ariens blowers, I think there are roll pins/sheer pins on the collar of the blower that slides onto the shaft that also runs the auger.


This is a weird one isn't it? Now I'm REALLY wanting to hear what you find!


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Ok, I finally got the auger shaft out and took the gearbox apart and everything looked normal. I looked at the friction disc and it looks normal too. I wasn't sure about the friction disc, so I called Sears to see if they had one to order. The guy told me that the friction wheel has more to do with driving the wheels and not the auger/impeller. I also took out the shear bolts and they are in tact, however they do not look like shear bolts at all. A few years ago, I had the snowblower serviced and the place gave me extra bolts. I am attaching a picture of the disc and the bolt. The bolt has the marking 307A SBY, on it. I did a google search on it and someone else reported a problem with their snowblower and these bolts, but didn't get any answers from anyone. If these are in fact the wrong bolts and the gear box looks ok (to me at least), meaning nothing broken inside, then what else could this affected?


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

The "right" shear bolts are relatively soft and will give way (shear) more easily so a jam up does not damage the rest of the machinery. The "wrong" bolts fit on the same way and look the same except for different markings on the head, and are too hard.

We haven't answered this question yet. When the auger stops under heavy snow, is the engine pulley (top pulley) up in the gear box area still rotating?

When the auger stops under heavy snow, can you push the idler against the belt more (using a stick) and make the auger start up again while someone else holds the lever on the handlbars?

On most snow blowers the friction disk drives the wheels only and can be adjusted to control the speed of the wheels. The auger does not have a speed control but its speed may vary depending on the choke position and should be going as fast as possible.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

AllanJ said:


> The "right" shear bolts are relatively soft and will give way (shear) more easily so a jam up does not damage the rest of the machinery. The "wrong" bolts fit on the same way and look the same except for different markings on the head, and are too hard.
> 
> We haven't answered this question yet. When the auger stops under heavy snow, is the engine pulley (top pulley) up in the gear box area still rotating?
> 
> ...


When the auger stops, the pulley stops too. I clamped the handlebar down and tried to make the pulley start rotating, with a long screwdriver, but nothing happened.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I am trying to reassemble the snowblower and I cannot figure out where the auger cable attaches to. There is a hole in the piece of metal that is attached to the end of the cable and a metal rod that fits into the hole, but the only way that I see it attaching that way, blocks the belt from moving. Does anyone have a craftsman that could take a pic of theirs or maybe tell me how to get it back on? Thanks and Happy New year!


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

With none of the pulleys rotating and the augur is stuck in snow, prodding with a stick or screwdriver will not do anything. The problem is closer to the engine. Now we have to look for a spline or shear bolt in or near the top pulley that may be broken.

Shut off the engine and pull off the spark plug. With the auger still stuck in snow and while someone else pulls the starter rope handle very slowly, observe what is still rotating in the vicinity of the clutch. Carefully observe the end of the shaft (if visible) in the center of the top pulley to see if it is rotating while the pulley itself is stopped.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> When the auger stops, the pulley stops too.


Ayuh,... So you're saying that the small pulley in this picture, Stops turning,..??

I find that hard to believe, as that's the motor's crankshaft....

If this small pulley *IS* still turning, 'n the Big pulley attached to the auger stops turning,...
As I said before, the Belt is too Long....


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I've ruled out the woodruff key and the hi-pro key as they are on great shape as is the worm gear. I am attaching a picture of the engine portion of the blower. The upper pulley in this picture does turn, but hits a point where it is difficult to turn. I can get it past that point if I turn it hard enough, but when it revolves around to that point again it it tough. I don't know if this is normal or not, but if it's not, then this may be causing the stoppage. Any thoughts?


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> I've ruled out the woodruff key and the hi-pro key as they are on great shape as is the worm gear. I am attaching a picture of the engine portion of the blower. *The upper pulley in this picture does turn, but hits a point where it is difficult to turn. I can get it past that point if I turn it hard enough, but when it revolves around to that point again it it tough.* I don't know if this is normal or not, but if it's not, then this may be causing the stoppage. Any thoughts?


That's when you're coming up on compression. It's supposed to be that way.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Ok, that's good to know, thanks I'm going to reassemble it and see if it works. Maybe I loosened something up and now it will work correctly, you never know.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I reassembled the blower and started it up. When I held down the auger handle all the pulleys spun, maybe because I took the all apart and loosened them up a little. Anyway, the belt definitely looks like it it too big now even after tightening up the auger cable. The manual calls for a murray belt model # 585416ma. I have 2 new 585416 belts, but after looking online, they are the same length as the ma's, which is 38 inches. I have the belt guides close to the belt, is it possible that I need a smaller belt than what it calls for? I don't see anything else to do to male the belt tighter.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> I reassembled the blower and started it up. When I held down the auger handle all the pulleys spun, maybe because I took the all apart and loosened them up a little. Anyway, the belt definitely looks like it it too big now even after tightening up the auger cable. The manual calls for a murray belt model # 585416ma. I have 2 new 585416 belts, but after looking online, they are the same length as the ma's, which is 38 inches. I have the belt guides close to the belt, is it possible that I need a smaller belt than what it calls for? I don't see anything else to do to male the belt tighter.


The drive belt should be very tight when engaged.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

DrHicks said:


> The drive belt should be very tight when engaged.


Yes, I think that's what the idler pulley does.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

The only thing I can see that it might be, now, is the the auger pulley. The inside of the auger pulley seems to be glazed kind of like worn brake pads. The pulley seems to be gliding by the belt. Do you think if I get a new pulley, that would fix it? I used a crew driver to push the belt as close to the pulley as I could and it turned the auger a little, while in snow, but it kept slipping. I looked on the sears parts site and they do not stock that anymore. The model is 536.886331, anyone have any ideas? Thanks


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> The pulley seems to be gliding by the belt. Do you think if I get a new pulley, that would fix it?


Jeeze,... You say you've got spare Belts,..?? Have you put 1 On,..??

The *BELT* ain't gettin' Tight enough... Change the *BELT*....

There's NO reason what so ever to change a perfectly good pulley.....
Especially when the Problem is the *BELT*....


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

The belt that I am using is the new belt. I agree that there is no reason to change a perfectly good pulley, but do I have a perfectly good pulley? Should I get a 37 inch belt as oppose to the 38 inch that is recommended by Sears and which is what I have now?


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> The belt that I am using is the new belt. I agree that there is no reason to change a perfectly good pulley, but do I have a perfectly good pulley? Should I get a 37 inch belt as oppose to the 38 inch that is recommended by Sears and which is what I have now?


Doesn't matter if it's a new belt. If it's a bit too long, that's your problem.

Here's one way to check it: With the engine off, engage your auger. With the auger idler pulley engaged, your belt should be almost as tight as the alternator belt on your car.

My hunch is that your belt is too long, and is just loose enough to have caused you all these problems.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Thanks, that's what I'm thinking. The only thing is that the sears site sells the same belt that I have and they are both 38 inches long. Do you think I should get a shorter one and go against the manual? I'm not sure what to do.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> Thanks, that's what I'm thinking. The only thing is that the sears site sells the same belt that I have and they are both 38 inches long. Do you think I should get a shorter one and go against the manual? I'm not sure what to do.


Yes. Get a 37 inch belt. You can probably pick one up at OReillys, or any other auto parts store. It'll probably cost you less than $10. 

The Sears parts number may or may not be correct. Also, it's possible that the blower should have a 5/8th inch belt, and Sears calls for a 1/2 inch belt. It's also possible that there is just enough normal wear on both the drive and driven pulleys to keep your belt from tightening adequately.


One other thing... In most blowers, there is quite a bit of "play" or "adjustment" in the tightening mechanism. Are you sure you have it as tight as it can be?


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Great, thanks. I'll pick one up tomorrow. I have tightened up everything that I can to take out the slack in the belt. I even clamped the auger handle down and used a screwdriver to push the mechanism that pushes the belt towards the pulley and it didn't work. There is play on the other side and the belt guides are all set to push the belt very close to the pulley. The shorter belt has to be the answer.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

joeg679 said:


> Great, thanks. I'll pick one up tomorrow. I have tightened up everything that I can to take out the slack in the belt. I even clamped the auger handle down and used a screwdriver to push the mechanism that pushes the belt towards the pulley and it didn't work. There is play on the other side and the belt guides are all set to push the belt very close to the pulley. * The shorter belt has to be the answer*.


Sounds like it. As I said before, when that tensioner pulley is engaged, that belt should be TIGHT - as in, almost as tight as an alternator belt on your car. Sounds like it's nowhere near that tight.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

You're right, there is play in the belt when the tensioner pulley is engaged. There are blue laws in Bergen County, NJ that prevent stores from being open on Sunday, or else I would run out now and get the belt. I'll pick it up tomorrow and report back. Thanks


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

I got the 37 inch belt and installed it, however it was too tight and kept the auger running the whole time. I put the 38 inch one back on and moved the tension bars to keep tension on the belt. The way the tension bars were set up there was slack in the belt, but the only other hole where I could put the tension bar, was too small to fit the bolt. I came to the conclusion that the last lawnmower shop that serviced it list the original bolt and replaced it with a bigger one and then forgot where it went and drilled out one of the other holes. Long story short, I had to drill out the other hole and put the bolt in that so now the tension bar is in the right spot and it keeps enough pressure on the belt for it to spin the auger when engaged. I wasn't able to test it out on snow, but there should be some on Friday. If it doesn't work, I will just put the 37 inch on and deal with it for the winter and maybe get a new blower over the summer. I'll let you know how it works out, but I would like to thank all of you for your time, I really appreciate it.


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## steamrollerpjt (Jan 27, 2011)

Thank you all for the information you provided. Just an hour ago, I was starting my snowblower and when I engaged the auger, an odd grinding sound occurred, the auger did not turn, and, after a few seconds, a burnt smoke appeared (from the pully drive mechanism housing). I disengaged the auger drive. Afterwards, when I engaged the auger, it still did not turn and the grinding sound did not occur. After reviewing this discussion forum, I checked the auger and drive shaft and determined that a piece of ice had jammed the drive shaft, preventing it from rotating freely. I removed the ice and made sure the drive shaft and auger were turning easily (of course, I unplugged the spark plug cable first). Then I removed the housing over the drive/pulley mechanism (thank you for posting the picture of this mechanism joeg679) and restarted the engine. It seems that the auger engagement mechanism did not engage the drive shaft firmly enough - thank goodness for this as I suspect I would have broken the belt or done more damage in the few seconds that I let the drive action smoke earlier. I tightened the auger engage pulley cable so that the pulley more firmly engaged and the auger started to turn. Things ran fine thereafter (for this snowstorm anyway). I noticed that the drive shaft pulley was quite loose and I will look at this later. 

Lesson learned - check that drive shaft and auger turn easily before engaging. A little preventative checking will keep down the number of headaches later


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

^ It's also a good idea to - when you're done blowing snow - set the tires of the blower up on several 2x6s (or something similar) so that melted snow & ice drain out of the auger & impeller areas.


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## joeg679 (Nov 15, 2009)

Glad we could help!


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