# Waterproofing before remodeling in basement?



## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

I think it is more of redundant... because if it leaks... you probably won't be able to water proof it with standard water proofing method... if it doesn't leak... there is no need to touch it....

and base on 4 year history... I think you are good to go...


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## Kingfisher (Nov 19, 2007)

Waterproof it now because as pointed out if it leak you will not be able to, I assume you're asking because you are about to cover the walls? It easy to do now but hard to do later


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

If it is a newer foundation, they are actually already waterproofed, on the outside, when the frost walls and footings are put in. It's Code required.


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## Spike99 (Dec 24, 2007)

OOOPPPPSSSSS

Double post - must have been during previous server crash.

.


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## Spike99 (Dec 24, 2007)

Peterbay said:


> I have a 4-year old home and was thinking about remodeling the basement. We have poured walls down there and I have never had any water or moisture problems. I was wondering if it is a good idea to waterproof the poured walls before framing/insulating? Or is it too redundant?


Adding water proofing (re: tar coating on the "inside" of cement basement wall) is not only redundant but can create long term problems. In a perfect world, one needs to "water proof" the ouside of their cement wall. On the inside, they leave it "untreated". This allows the cement wall to naturally breath and over time, allows it to slowly dry. As as some say, "allow the cement to cure". 

If this was my place with "NO water problems" for 4 consecutive years, I'd leave the inside walls "as is" and add the vertical studding (with needed insulation). Cement floor to main floor celing studding material and spacing as per your local code. And if given a choice, I'd use 2x6s (if cold climant) or 2x4s (in warm climat) as vertical studs. Yes. Wood studs instead of steel studs. And, I'd use double plates for both top and bottom. And for inner walls that might have heavy shelves or a large screen TV mounting area, I'd use 12" stud spacing - instead of normal 16" spacing. Thus, allowing more vertical studs for future anchor screws. 

Hope this helps as well...

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## nancytaylor (Oct 23, 2016)

I am not that good in such kind of work, when it happened with out basement, I hired this local **(*Ad removed*)** City Wide Group, they took care of the job and the problem was solved.


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## rkovelman (Oct 8, 2016)

If you're talking about the paint that you apply to stop moisture, I would say do it now. The outside is protected against vapor so is also helpful. BUT if the backfill was bad or something else, there is no way to know. What either product won't help with is water. A french drain and a pump are your best bet. Make sure you pump it in the direction of downhill, not just away from your home. Also, which I still need to do, is get a battery backup for it, and a standby pump. 4 years is not enough to ever tell if you will have water issues. As time passes, the water table could change as the land around you is developed and changed. Also, note that many new homes don't have soil, it's mostly clay, which doesnt help. That top soil was sold for profit. This is all imo.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Waterproofing paint on the inside does virtually nothing. It may keep out a bit of water vapor but that's about it. Also, it is more effective on CONCRETE BLOCK walls as it fills the pores and voids. Poured walls usually don't have all those voids/pores. As stated by several, your EFFECTIVE waterproofing SHOULD have been done on the outside at the time of construction. If it was not, you would have to dig out around the foundation and install a waterproofing system which doesn't come cheap.


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