# How to remove 1/4" hex head screw?



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

*Am I missing something..*.....have you tried allen wrenches.....or is something stripped out. ...for internal female hex...

or a nut driver for external hex head.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Can you post a picture of the head of the screw you are trying to extract? You may be able to cut across the head with a hack saw blade, making a slot and use a slotted screwdriver to remove it. We'll wait on the pictures.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NXEg0WrKUl4djkIbOdxcqrHpWYi7_8K-/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/122CbxiautOcG6nJ2oYZnzlSNG-SUoFOe/view?usp=sharing

Do not know if I am able to post pictures. I will try.

The screw is VERY tightly stuck. Nothing I do can move it.
Also have pour liquid wrench on it, but stuck so far.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

It already has a slot. Have you tried a strait slot screw driver large enough to span across the entire head? Otherwise, a 1/4" hex head driver should still work. You may have to resort to an impact driver to make it come out if it is difficult. I don't see a problem with removing either of those screws. What, exactly, are you using?


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Well, I tried screw driver, hex wrench, failed reverse thread drill. It has not move a tiny bit.

Do you think this hex head is Matrix or English 1/4"


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Did you try a 1/4" hex driver, that's what is normally used. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

It is a standard hex / slot combo screw. The slots are shallow and suck on most of them.



Buy yourself a 1/4" nut driver or 1/4" hex head for your cordless drill.


Alternate place: use vise grips and replace with a new screw.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Yes, I have cordless drill.
I think the hex screw head has rounded after I worked on it so much. The pan head slot also unable to hold counter clockwise pan head screw turn.

Do not have Panovos 1/4" impact nut driver bit set. Are the set for same 1/4" hex head screw, or for different sizes?

Will borrow a vise grip with small nose to hold on this small screw head. Mine is too large to grip this small non-straight screw head.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Suggest you start by spraying it with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. Place an appropriately sized flat screwdriver on the slot, give it a sharp rap with a hammer and then try turning it.

If that does not work, drill the thing out.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Forget the screwdriver. 
Socket wrench.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Drachenfire said:


> If that does not work, drill the thing out.


If that thing was mine I'd just grind the head off with an angle grinder and use vise grips on the stub.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

OK, tried new 1/4" socket wrench, turn it, kept slipping.
Tried vice grip, unable to hold on the tip, just slipping again & again when tried to applied force to turn.
Tried pan head screwdriver, held firm, but unable to turn the screwdriver. No nudge.
Tried to put on liquid wrench, nothing doing, most just drip away on the vent cover.
Do not have grinder, asking to borrow one.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

jgy2001 said:


> OK, tried new 1/4" socket wrench, turn it, kept slipping.



Use the correct size.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a...2gl734uBor7zqA5ndlDA6MjjDY=w1024-h768-no?.jpg

That is suppose to be 1/4" size

Only pan head screw driver seems to able to securely insert into the screw head. But how do I turn the screw driver counter-clockwise when firmly insert into the screw?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Picture won't show for me. Could this a torx and and not a hex?

What's a panhead screw driver? Never heard of that type.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

jgy2001 said:


> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a...2gl734uBor7zqA5ndlDA6MjjDY=w1024-h768-no?.jpg
> 
> That is suppose to be 1/4" size
> 
> Only pan head screw driver seems to able to securely insert into the screw head. But how do I turn the screw driver counter-clockwise when firmly insert into the screw?


Grind 2 flats on the screw driver shank if you have to and use a crescent wrench to turn it while your holding it in the slot.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Stop with the liquid wrench, might as well get the cat to P on it. Use PB blaster....PB Blaster.... :wink2: And let it soak overnight after a couple of sprays 3 hours apart.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

I would have ground it off by now.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Drachenfire said:


> I would have ground it off by now.


True. But if the OP chooses to grind the screws off of the register, I hope he tapes over the register well. Nothing like a grinding spark laying in old dust in the wall duct behind that register...that may ignite later to make for some excitement. .


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Taking another look at the picture, it looks like he could get a hacksaw blade (minus the handle) between register and the wall. It would take a little time and be somewhat labor intensive but he could tape over one end of the blade to hold on to and cut the screw without the risk of a spark.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

………………...If the hacksaw will not fit, then someone mentioned just drilling the head off. That's what I would do. Drill dead center with a 1/8 in. metal bit just to keep a larger bit centered. Then, follow up with a 1/4 " bit until the head fell off.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Why can't I see the picture? All I get is a circle with a dash in it.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

joed said:


> Why can't I see the picture? All I get is a circle with a dash in it.


Here is one of the two OP pics...….. Two 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws rusted in place, OP needs to remove.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Probably not a rust but god awful long screw in wood stud. I'd try bigger flat screw driver, don't know how flat drivers are numbered, but compared to philips, #3 or such. Long handle and heavy duty shank. Push down on the screw while turning. If not turn the screw, it will probably break the head. Replace by leveling and finding new place for screws and pre drill.


Drill can also have low torque settings which can help with bearing down on the screw. Also the hex head is too shallow to use sockets or the vice grip. For diy safety, when bearing down on the screw, keep the other hand away from the tips.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Thanks for the picture. Proper size nut driver or socket is the way to go.
A hacksaw might be used to cut a new slot for a tight fitting slot screwdriver.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

joed said:


> Thanks for the picture. Proper size nut driver or socket is the way to go.
> A hacksaw might be used to cut a new slot for a tight fitting slot screwdriver.





A nut driver may not work. Of all the hex + combo screws the hex / slot is the worst. If installed with a worn driver it is extremely easy to round off and sometimes they are just poorly made with shallow shoulders.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Want to go back to the Damage Screw Extrator. What set would you recommend in Amazon?

Last week purchased that lousy cheap set from Amazon for $8. Did not evem make much a scratch on the screw head. Since returned. Now listing disappeared in Amazon listing.

6PCS, Professional Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set, Made of High-Speed Steel, Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws, By YOLANDA


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

If the screw is so tight that you can't get it the screw extractor won't work either. Screw extractors don't loosen tight screws.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Get yourself something like this:



It's called an impact driver, the manual kind. You put the appropriate bit in the driver, set it on the stubborn item, take a hammer and hit the end of the driver. It sets off a reaction inside the driver and amplifies and redirects the force into a twisting motion to loosen whatever is stuck. 

Another option:

You were able to get a good grip on the screw but not able to turn it. If you have a square shank screwdriver, put a crescent wrench on it and try turning it with that. Making sure to keep pressure on the screwdriver.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LB2C52...&pd_rd_r=41365fb0-c6d7-41b8-9c59-7837007ae2e1

Has anyone used this American made set from Amazon? Oh, no, negative feedbacks.

Thanks Ktownskier, Do not have square shank screwdriver, just the round kind, unable to grip with vise grip.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I can't imagine RUST being a problem with this type sheet metal screw for extraction. As others have said either grind off the head or drill it off with a 1/4" drill bit. Move on.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> I can't imagine RUST being a problem with this type sheet metal screw for extraction. As others have said either grind off the head or drill it off with a 1/4" drill bit. Move on.


By looking at the screw going in slightly sideway, I assume the builder jam that screw in crooked, and care less what happened next.

Looking for ALL those impact screwdrivers listed in Amazon or HomeDepot, complains are always soft and useless bits. Anyone has good luck using useful impact screwdrivers with strong bits set?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Others have posted, but these are not "soft" bits. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-3-in-x-1-4-in-Steel-Impact-Driver-DWAIRDGMF/308352769

It doesn't matter if the screw is going in sideways or not, the threads don't have problems with rust.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Others have posted, but these are not "soft" bits. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-3-in-x-1-4-in-Steel-Impact-Driver-DWAIRDGMF/308352769


Larry, Thanks. These impact screwdrivers seems to be OK, no complain. 
All the complains are on the soft & useless bits. So, the key is to find sharp, hard, well made bits.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

jgy2001 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LB2C52...&pd_rd_r=41365fb0-c6d7-41b8-9c59-7837007ae2e1
> 
> Has anyone used this American made set from Amazon? Oh, no, negative feedbacks.
> 
> Thanks Ktownskier, Do not have square shank screwdriver, just the round kind, unable to grip with vise grip.


That was actually what I was trying to post. Not the Moore's Law. The one I have is an SK unit about 40 years old. And it still works great. I don't use it all that often, but when I need it, I need it. 

For about $10, (at least in my area) Big Orange has a special on a diamond tip screwdriver set. (They grip a lot better) and they also have a square shaft. Besides, everyone needs more tools, don't they?


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

ktownskier said:


> Get yourself something like this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/MulWark-Reve...07K22W2VK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
> 
> It's called an impact driver, the manual kind. You put the appropriate bit in the driver, set it on the stubborn item, take a hammer and hit the end of the driver. It sets off a reaction inside the driver and amplifies and redirects the force into a twisting motion to loosen whatever is stuck. .


Thanks, Ktownskier, I read the Amazon 1 star comments (usually to save time, I read the bad review first) saying the entire screwdriver broke apart after being hit by hammer. Do you agree with those complains?


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

jgy2001 said:


> Thanks, Ktownskier, I read the Amazon 1 star comments (usually to save time, I read the bad review first) saying the entire screwdriver broke apart after being hit by hammer. Do you agree with those complains?



I just used that as an example. It all depends on how much you would think you would use it. 

Do you have a good quality battery powered impact driver? If you don't spend the money on that. Not just a drill driver, but a true impact driver. And a good one, like Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, or Ridgid. 

And yes. I read the bad reviews first, but I also check the dates. They might be for an older version. And when I read the positive reviews, I check the dates as well.

Sometimes I don't care what the reviews are, for $12 for a tool that I might use once every year or so, is ok. Kind of like Harbor Freight. You get what you pay for. 

Milwaukee shockwave are good bits and so are DeWalt FlexTorq. (Not sure if the Max Impact at HD are the same) There used to be ice hardened bits, but they are long gone. 

I am a sucker for the bit sets around the holidays. I usually buy all the nice and pretty cases because I have misplaced or lost most of the pieces from the ones I bought last time.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Thanks for your help.
OK. I am ready to order this impact screw driver, hope this does not fall apart in this one time use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K22W2VK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2XAKEBHVSZ5DO&psc=1

What solid hard 1/4" bit should I get?


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

jgy2001 said:


> Thanks for your help.
> OK. I am ready to order this impact screw driver, hope this does not fall apart in this one time use:
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K22W2VK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2XAKEBHVSZ5DO&psc=1
> 
> What solid hard 1/4" bit should I get?


Just use the ones that come with it. They are heat treated and should work okay. Or if you have a set of your own preferred heat treated use those.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Yoi might try vampliers. I have had good luck with them.

https://www.amazon.com/VMPVT-001-5-...rds=vampliers&qid=1563812001&s=gateway&sr=8-5


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Just read this again. This is for Flat head screws. This screw is not flat head.
http://drive.google.com/file/d/1NXEg0WrKUl4djkIbOdxcqrHpWYi7_8K-/edit?.jpg










Can I still use this impact screwdriver?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K22W2VK?tag=diychatroomconvert-20


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

After reading a few of these posts, I definitely think you should hire a licensed, insured and bonded HVAC technician to remove those 1/4" sheet metal screws from the wall mount register.


No one really spends three days researching and inquiring about how to remove a sheet metal screw. 



I smell a troll.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

jgy2001 said:


> Just read this again. This is for Flat head screws. This screw is not flat head.
> http://drive.google.com/file/d/1NXEg0WrKUl4djkIbOdxcqrHpWYi7_8K-/edit?.jpg
> 
> 
> ...


Seriously? After all this freaking time you are still asking the same question?

We have given you our thoughts, suggestions, recommendations. We have even gone to websites and searched for things that might work. 

I am beginning to think that @Yodaman is correct. You are a troll that likes to waste peoples time. 

I don't think you will be getting any more help on this forum.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Thanks, Yodaman. I am no troll.

HVAC guys will come out just to look at the job will cost at least $100 to $150 minimum here in Silicon Valley, regardless if they willing to take the job or not. 

Alternative is to get a guy standing outside HomeDepot. They will charge $100 regardless they can do the job. Obviously, they have no tool with them.

Another alternative is to move my 40 yrs old 2100 sq ft 4 bedroom house to somewhere down South, where good hard working guys willing to do the job at reasonable cost.

FYI, Comfort Energy quoted replace my 5 ton HVAC system for a 4 ton Trane HVAC system at $36,000 to $26,500. Shocking, but that is the crazy going rate here.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Why are you wanting to order a hand driven impact tool? They are as worthless as warts on a frog's butt. Get your drill and a hex drive 1/4" bit like many have suggested, put it in the drill, turn the drill to reverse, put the bit over the nut, press hard and pull the trigger. If it doesn't work, rent a grinder and get rid of the head of the screw. I won't post any more until you follow some sane instructions. 46 posts to get you to do a simple task. Unheard of.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

It is nice to see some of you catching up to my thoughts about this thread. 


Most of us could have replaced the entire duct run in this amount of time.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

One thing about these low head hex drives. I looked for these screws because of how easy it was to work with them, specifically, off the older washing machine back plates. Homedepot or amazon, I couldn't find them. They all had 1/8" or so heads. 

I was trying to use my 1/4" hex screw bit holder. One thing about these holders is that the opening does not start with hex sides. First 1/32 or maybe even more is rounded, maybe to make it easier for the bit to slide in. Grinding this part off exposes the hex hole and made it a better holder for these low head screws. Still, not 100% driving into 2x4.
I gave up finding real hex heads and went back to using philips. Maybe if I went to plumbing or hvac pro stores.


BTW, if you're hell bent on trying impact driver, tekton is a name that's been around in amazon for while. If keep looking, there is lisle also. For very seldom auto repair uses, I am thinking of getting one and lisle has been reliable and usually with better ratings.


BTW 2, amazon rating is not to be trusted from get go, esp when there are only 20 or so reviews. Those are numbers that can easily be bought from pro reviewers.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Regarding the impact driver, I suggested it. I have one and I use it very rarely, but when I do, it has proven invaluable. Even when other options have failed. I think mine is either SK or Snap-On and I have had it for about 40 years. 

I suggested it as an alternative to use if he didn't have, or want to, a cordless impact driver. Although I did suggest he buy one instead of spending the money on a manual one. 

Also, I suggested he buy a set of screwdrivers with a square shank (HD has a set of diamond tip ones for $10) so that he can use an adjustable wrench for added torque while pushing in on it. 

But, like others, I started to wonder why the hell we were helping this guy over such a simple problem and then @Colby_t came up with probable reason. He's a troll. 

I still like my impact driver though.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Whatever the op may be, other people could use the info. Also throwing in my monkey wrench.:smile: But so far, I think this thread wasn't a waste of space, maybe because I had something to say.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

carpdad said:


> One thing about these low head hex drives. I looked for these screws because of how easy it was to work with them, specifically, off the older washing machine back plates. Homedepot or amazon, I couldn't find them. They all had 1/8" or so heads.
> 
> I was trying to use my 1/4" hex screw bit holder. One thing about these holders is that the opening does not start with hex sides. First 1/32 or maybe even more is rounded, maybe to make it easier for the bit to slide in. Grinding this part off exposes the hex hole and made it a better holder for these low head screws. Still, not 100% driving into 2x4.
> I gave up finding real hex heads and went back to using philips. Maybe if I went to plumbing or hvac pro stores.
> ...


Never thought about grinding the head of the holder off, but I do use the holder to drive them in as well. 

Just looked at HD and found these:

https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/7d7c1544-1945-5d59-8a0b-595deb05f413/svn/klein-tools-driving-bits-32792-64_1000.jpg

They are Klein's so they should be pretty good. And they look fairly flat across the top. And they do show a guy using zip screws on some hvac tin. 

As for Amazon, I very seldom use their ratings. I do use their Q/A though. I typically find it somewhere else first and then check the price on Amazon. It's the other site or sites reviews I follow. After all, I have nothing but time on my hands.


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## KaseyW (Nov 23, 2012)

Just to add another 2 cents to the pot: sometime in the distant past, I read the instructions for using penetrating lubricants and they included the suggestion to tap/bang/hammer the offending screw/bolt right after spraying to help the lubricant to wick into the frozen area rather than just running off and making a mess. I've always done it and have yet to have to drill a screw or bolt out.


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## HikingTurtle (Sep 5, 2018)

Just a thought. If it's slipping on a worn out head, have you tried wrapping the screw head with an anti-slip pad, like those used to open jars, and use the vise grip?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

jgy2001 said:


> Tried vice grip, unable to hold on the tip, just slipping again & again when tried to applied force to turn.



If the vice grips are slipping, then you're doing something wrong. Vice grips should be able to rip the head off that screw, even if the screw is stuck somehow in the hole.

My question is, what the heck can it be screwed into that makes it stuck? The only 2 things that can be in there are very thin sheet metal, which is not difficult to thread through and should not need WD40 or any other penetrant, or wood, which also shouldn't need a penetrant. Not clear what's going on here. I'm thinking that if everything you're trying is slipping, then you're simply not getting a good enough grip on it. If you have the correct size nut driver, even rounded off corners should not matter much. It's possible a regular screw driver might slip out of the head if it's in there tight, but definitely not vice grips.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

HikingTurtle said:


> Just a thought. If it's slipping on a worn out head, have you tried wrapping the screw head with an anti-slip pad, like those used to open jars, and use the vise grip?



Vice grips will dig right into the metal, for a tighter grip than you could possibly get with an "anti-slip" pad. It should be working similar to how a plumbing wrench would work. This will also dig into metal, and anything in between will normally make it worse.


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## RockyMtBeerMan (Dec 12, 2018)

Drill it out, put in a bigger screw.


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## FrodoOne (Mar 4, 2016)

After several days of various suggestions it seems that no one, so far, has suggested the application of heat - in significant amounts - via a high wattage soldering iron (or even an old "pluming" soldering iron headed by a flame - such as from a "blow torch".)

It may be necessary also to use some solder and allow this to "pool" against the screw head to increase the area of conduction.

Heat applied in this way for 30 seconds or more will expand the screw in whatever it is situated (probably a wooden stud) which should cause the screw to become somewhat looser when it cools rapidly, as it will once the heat is removed.

This expansion "breaks the seal" of whatever it is in.

*(Of course, do not apply any flame directly!)*


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## KaseyW (Nov 23, 2012)

Okay ... one more quick outside-the-box suggestion: is there any conceivable possibility that the immovable screw is reverse-threaded? Even if it's not, I've sometimes found that trying to twist one in the opposite direction helps to break it loose. Worst case scenario is you end up twisting the head off which still solves your problem.:wink2: If that doesn't work, I vote for FrodoOne's solution, which I'm adding to my own collection of potential fixes.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> screw is reverse-threaded


Heck no !! This is an air conditioner register and the OP has exhausted most of the professionals on this thread to the extent of frustration. It is too simple and he is making it out to be rocket science. Hopefully he has taken more sane advice and just cut the head off the screw, pull out the stub with vice grips, reinstall a new screw and eat supper. Gee !!

58 posts to loosen a screw !!??


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

About the heat. Not good. There may be insulation inside that will easily catch fire, let alone very dry wood lumber. Using flame inside the house has to be done very carefully with anything that's flammable in 3 dimensions at least for 12". Also easy enough to set off smoke alarms so find out first how to turn them off.:smile:


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

carpdad said:


> About the heat. Not good. There may be insulation inside that will easily catch fire, let alone very dry wood lumber. Using flame inside the house has to be done very carefully with anything that's flammable in 3 dimensions at least for 12". Also easy enough to set off smoke alarms so find out first how to turn them off.:smile:


No!!! That is going to start another multi-day, multi-post thread on how to turn them off, what is the best way to do it, which is the best smoke detector, should I hard wire them or should it be wireless?

I can see it now.....:vs_cool:


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Cutting off the screw head and even buying a new vent if damaged while doing so would have been cheaper that firing up the tools cannon.


For those that suggested vice grips more than once: There are some combo screws that do not have enough of a shoulder for the grips to bite. I routinely threw those in garbage and used a quality screw.


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## RockyMtBeerMan (Dec 12, 2018)

I suggest we all submit bids on removing this problematic screw.


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## Tom153 (Nov 10, 2016)

Sometimes you can put the vise grips on the handle of the screw driver, and get a lot more leverage to turn it. If that doesn't work, you might try a propane torch on the screw head, if you think it is rusted in place, let it cool and try some more. Or try vise grips on the head, but if it keeps slipping off, you could try filing two parallel flat spots on the head that you can clamp onto.


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

Call someone in jail and tell them you hid the drugs behind that vent. Soon the police will come and remove it for you.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

My wife could take that screw out with a butter knife! :vs_laugh:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

This will get it out.

https://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Pneu...icago+pneumatic+ai,aps,307&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1


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## Tom153 (Nov 10, 2016)

It just takes more work. I take a flat file and create a two flat spots along the sides of the head, that the vice grip can grab. I've done it on pan head screws that have totally rounded heads and very thin. But now that I think about it the person that posted the problem said that they couldn't drill into the head, so it might be a stainless steel screw, which will be very tough to file, but still can be done, with more effort and patience.


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## Tom153 (Nov 10, 2016)

True, you would have to be very careful with the torch, and make sure there is nothing flammable near, or hidden on the blind side. If not a torch, a soldering iron could be more controlled, and not get nearly as hot as propane. Possibly also, you could heat it, then place a cold iron bar on the head, to try to shrink the screw while the hole stays larger, then try the screw driver with a vice grip on it, to try to break it loose. One more idea, which I've never tried; An old mechanics trick to break rusted in place exhaust manifold bolts/studs/nuts; Heat the bolt head, then put a stick of paraffin against it and let it melt into the threads, after it cools it breaks free...or so they say.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Tom123, if you read the posts in the thread, all those methods have been mentioned. Some in jest, and some to get the job done. Adding fuel to the fire will only prolong this torture.


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## FrodoOne (Mar 4, 2016)

carpdad said:


> About the heat. Not good. There may be insulation inside that will easily catch fire, let alone very dry wood lumber. Using flame inside the house has to be done very carefully with anything that's flammable in 3 dimensions at least for 12". Also easy enough to set off smoke alarms so find out first how to turn them off.:smile:


I specifically wrote "*Of course, do not apply any flame directly!*"

I have used a heated "Plumbing" soldering iron many times to loosen screws in timber in the manner which I described, without any dire consequences.

(Mostly, these have been wood screws with slotted heads where the screw driver initially could not obtain enough "purchase" and the heads were starting to become damaged.)

The iron in question does not get "red hot", so there is little danger of igniting fire in timber.

After a number of seconds, yes, there may be a "scorching" smell - but this only indicates that the process is working. 
When such a smell is detected, it is time to stop the process, put the iron away safely and check if the screw can now be extracted - as is usually the case.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Here is my nickels worth. 

1) While this thread has provided a lot of interesting suggestions, good, bad, questionable and amusing, I believe we have covered all the possible ways to remove a screw from a register. 

2) The OP's last post was #45 on 7/22. The last post before mine was at 3:04 am and was #71, mine will be #72 on 7/27, almost a week after this started on 7/21. And 5 days after the OP last posted. 

3) All of the OP's posts have been on this thread (14)

4) He kept asking the same question in different ways, when we called him on being a troll, (@Yodaman I think it was), he made one last post and stopped. 

I think we need to let this post die a peaceful death. 
@joed or @Cricket what would be the best way to send this possibly troll started thread to wasteland of threads no longer needing postings?

Thanks for all the entries, but, it is time to move onto other threads where others actually need help. 

And for those jumping in at the last second, it is advisable to read the whole thread before making comments, as others may have suggested the same or similar idea already.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Sorry.... I just want to see if we can get this thread to 100 posts for a new record on "how a screw works". Lefty loosey, righty titey....:wink2::surprise::biggrin2:


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## Tom153 (Nov 10, 2016)

Something about the website "encourages" comments jumping in the end, rather than showing the entire thread. You have to backtrack page by page to see the entire thread. so Ya, it just takes some effort. Those new to the website, like me...just discovered that. You don't have to get huffy about it.


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

No, I am no troll.
Yes, I read each and every post. I appreciate each and every one of your posting of valuable and enlighting comments and suggestions, except applying heat, nor nasty posts calling anyone troll.
I thank you.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Tom153 said:


> Something about the website "encourages" comments jumping in the end, rather than showing the entire thread. You have to backtrack page by page to see the entire thread. so Ya, it just takes some effort. Those new to the website, like me...just discovered that. You don't have to get huffy about it.


Yes I do!!! (he says with a big Harrumph!!):vs_mad: :devil3:

And @jgy2001 We were not calling you a troll, merely implying it. But you did drop out of sight after that interchange. :vs_smirk:

76 now


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## Tom153 (Nov 10, 2016)

So did you get the screws out? There seems to be a lot of interest in your thread, and lots of real life experience for similar situations. I'm just wondering if you were successful, and how you managed to get the screws out. That way, we can all benefit from your experience also.

Also, it sort of closes the thread, so that comments end. Those of us that get auto notices of each new post would be grateful.&#55357;&#56835;


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

Tom153 said:


> So did you get the screws out?


No, still waiting the right Amazon impact screw drivers. Had to return the first two. Also, returned the "Screw Extractors". Long story.


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## Tom153 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks for the update. You have lots of ideas to draw on. I usually start with the least destructive method and work my way towards "more aggressive" methods. I never admit defeat!


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## RockyMtBeerMan (Dec 12, 2018)

UserCP, Edit Options, Scroll down, Thread Display Options


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## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

I've posted about this before in another thread about similar issue.

There is a product called "Vampires." They are from a company called https://www.vampiretools.com and you can buy them on Amazon.

NOT cheap. Over $40, which seems a bit much for something you - ideally - don't need much. But they work amazingly well. Now, of course if you twist just about any fastener enough you can just twist the head right off anyway. And that can suck.

But I don't regret having bought these. Originally, I got them kind of in case I might need them and maybe to deal with an old bench with lots of challenging bolts. (Which worked.) But since then, the couple times I've found it useful it really worked well.

Enjoy.


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## woodco (Jun 11, 2017)

Good Lord. If you cant figure out how to get a screw out in a WEEKS time, you have no business doing whatever it is you're trying to get the screw out for in the first place. You can literally break the head off the screw with a flathead and a hammer if its that hard, and you dont either own a drill, or have a friend you could borrow one from. Hell, you could go to lowes, buy a drill and a 1/4" bit, drill the screw out and return the drill, if you cant spare the money.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

New solution for the problem, guaranteed to eliminate the screw:


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## jgy2001 (Jul 19, 2019)

OK, finally toke the screw out.

We used manual nip slot cutter to cut the air vent. Cut around the screw so that we used vise grip to turn the screw and piece of vent together.
The under side of screw head was rusted and bonded to the air vent. Liquid wrench did not dissolve the rust. The rust was caused by years of cold and heat and condensation.

We borrowed this from friend. Also found this on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Expres...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CYMS3ECQZ001SE4MCDF7

Thank you for all your suggestions, comments and advise. Much appreciated.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

OK, now on to the guy who is having a problem unscrewing a light bulb.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

For future reference, once the hex head is _- screwed up_ - from trying every wrong socket available, the vise grips, grinder recommendations follow just as we see were recommended here. Vise grips - leave those in the tool pouch and pull out a good 4 or 6 inch Ridgid pipe wrench and remove the screw while there is some screw head remaining. 



Grind or drill the head off -- that's the next screw up - Once the head is off on that type screw all that remains is the threaded portion. The best pipe wrench in the world won't screw that screw out now because the wrench jaws just un-screw themselves up the threads of the screw.


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