# Sticky  Drywall FAQ - Common Questions Answered, + Tips and Tricks!



## wilsonstark

1. If you have never done drywall before, don't start before you've either read a decent book (with lots of illustrations). If you don't know what a butt joint is, that's a good sign you need to do more reading. Youtube is also a good source for seeing what things look like, although bear in mind that everyone has their own approach and some videos may contradict each other.

2. Make sure your first effort is small or in a location where results don't matter as much (basement, garage, etc). Your first few times doing taping/mudding are where you will do most of the learning. 

3. What is underneath matters a lot. If you're doing a remodel or new project from scratch, make sure you've done your drywall related research first. That "good enough" framing job could end up being an absolute nightmare to drywall.

4. Measure twice, cut once. Just like in carpentry, only moreso. Plan your layout on paper or chalked/pencilled on the studs before you get started.

5. Fixing a small hole might be best addressed by a bigger hole. Depends on location, etc, but if your first time looking at drywall is when you've "got a hole in my drywall I need to fix", there's a good chance that the best way to have it looking nice is to cut a regular shaped section out and screw it in place before going for the mud, tape, etc. (maybe this could have it's own post below, I suspect a lot of google searches want this part answered).


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## Willie T

I will start out by bringing you the good news that you no longer have to worry too much what a "Butt Joint" is.

Butt joints used to be the bane of drywall finishers. No longer.

The introduction of a very inexpensive product called a "Butt Board" totally eliminates the need to fight with the heretofor dreaded bump caused by the butt joint standard hanging leaves you to deal with.

You can research and learn about butt boards, but for now, just be happy that they were invented.


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## coupe

wilsonstark said:


> 1. If you have never done drywall before, don't start before you've either read a decent book (with lots of illustrations). If you don't know what a butt joint is, that's a good sign you need to do more reading. Youtube is also a good source for seeing what things look like, although bear in mind that everyone has their own approach and some videos may contradict each other.
> 
> 2. Make sure your first effort is small or in a location where results don't matter as much (basement, garage, etc). Your first few times doing taping/mudding are where you will do most of the learning.
> 
> 3. What is underneath matters a lot. If you're doing a remodel or new project from scratch, make sure you've done your drywall related research first. That "good enough" framing job could end up being an absolute nightmare to drywall.
> 
> 4. Measure twice, cut once. Just like in carpentry, only more so. Plan your layout on paper or chalked/pencilled on the studs before you get started.
> 
> 5. Fixing a small hole might be best addressed by a bigger hole. Depends on location, etc, but if your first time looking at drywall is when you've "got a hole in my drywall I need to fix", there's a good chance that the best way to have it looking nice is to cut a regular shaped section out and screw it in place before going for the mud, tape, etc. (maybe this could have it's own post below, I suspect a lot of google searches want this part answered).


holes the size of a quarter can be patched fairly easy? as well as gashes say an inch wide,length?

when patching these, drywall tape is 2 inches wide but 250 feet long. for holes and gashes, use freshly opened mud, unmixed or thinned down, with 6" knife coat heavily forcing mud deep into hole/dash force completely through drywall so it's hanging on inside wall like plaster. when it dries this will keep from falling out. put tape over hole as soon as you can, 6"knife without pushing all mud through wall but allowing tape to be held till dry at least 24 hours. as drying, the tape will be sucked into the wall allowing you to second and third coat with the widest knife or trowel you can find? put a slight bend in trowel or knife to form an arch in the mud as you put it over the tape. remember the knife is arched. so the flatter you go over the tape the more it will cover and feather out to edges. practice first in areas that can be clean and washed off completely.

hold knife close to on edge as you approach tape, bringing more flat going over tape allowing tape to be buried deeper under mud. it may take more than 3 coats? but you can get it so nobody will notice it's there unless they knew it was before!

just my thoughts and experience

good luck
coupe


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## ToolSeeker

Willie T said:


> I will start out by bringing you the good news that you no longer have to worry too much what a "Butt Joint" is.
> 
> Butt joints used to be the bane of drywall finishers. No longer.
> 
> The introduction of a very inexpensive product called a "Butt Board" totally eliminates the need to fight with the heretofor dreaded bump caused by the butt joint standard hanging leaves you to deal with.
> 
> You can research and learn about butt boards, but for now, just be happy that they were invented.


These things are fantastic.
And for patching the big box stores now carry patches that are a piece of thin aluminum with a fiberglass mesh over it. It comes 4"x4" 6"x6" and 8"x8" and they are sticky on the back so no screws just stick them on the wall and cover with joint compound very DIY friendly.


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## ToolSeeker

Remember when you are cutting your drywall you don't want it to fit super tight cut it about 1/4" short that will leave about 1/8" all the way around.


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## ToolSeeker

When you open a bucket of drywall mud and don't use it all it can go bad and sour to stop this cover what mud is in the bucket with a little water and add a capful of bleach and seal. When ready to use pour off the water and bleach then stir.


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## lmickelberry

*drywall*

Great tip to save my unused mud!


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## jklingel

i'm not a pro, but i've put a piece of plastic bag (cut round) over the mud and a couple of times have dug into the mud a year or two later; it is not dried at all. i also drop in a tad of water before i drop in the plastic, just for kicks.


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## odej98

jklingel said:


> i'm not a pro, but i've put a piece of plastic bag (cut round) over the mud and a couple of times have dug into the mud a year or two later; it is not dried at all. i also drop in a tad of water before i drop in the plastic, just for kicks.


I have always used the piece of plastic that comes in the tub already. it can be a little squirrely getting it centered, but make sure there are no air pockets and you are good to go


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## ToolSeeker

The only trouble with the plastic is when the bucket is open air gets in, then when you seal it back up the bacteria in the air grows for lack of a better term and this is what makes the mud sour or go bad. The bleach kills the bacteria. The plastic will work but you must be sure to get all the mud covered. The plastic that comes in the bucket is more to keep it from drying out. One thing a lot of people don't do is wipe the inside walls of the bucket down with a wet cloth or brush. If you ever notice when you open a used bucket of mud there is usually water on top so this also keeps a wet enviroment whice promotes bacteria growth.


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## jklingel

tool: ahha! that is what the bleach is for, huh? ok. got it. i will add some henceforth. yes, one needs to wipe the bucket clean or you get all kinds of grit in the mud, making streaks when you finish; i hate those little muthas!


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## ToolSeeker

When hanging drywall never use a tapered edge on an outside corner, because when you put on the corner bead and try to mud it is a nightmare.


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## jklingel

Tool: It would seem you could span the taper, resting the knife on the thick part of the 'rock and spanning to corner bead, and fill 'er right up. Not so? Too much fussing?


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## Nailbags

Willie T said:


> I will start out by bringing you the good news that you no longer have to worry too much what a "Butt Joint" is.
> 
> Butt joints used to be the bane of drywall finishers. No longer.
> 
> The introduction of a very inexpensive product called a "Butt Board" totally eliminates the need to fight with the heretofor dreaded bump caused by the butt joint standard hanging leaves you to deal with.
> 
> You can research and learn about butt boards, but for now, just be happy that they were invented.


Butt Boards are a must!


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## ToolSeeker

When you put your corner bead on the tapered side it makes it to low so you don't get that valley to fill and make every thing level. Your corner would be more toward round than square. I don't think I'm defining this very well. Let me know and I will try a different way.


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## Nailbags

always have a good halogen light to shine up the wall to make sure every thing is flat when you think your done sanding!


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## ToolSeeker

If you use mesh tape (and I don't know why you would) you must store it in an air tight container or it will lose it's stickiness and won't stick to the wall.


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## Dorado

If you only see ultralight drywall (about 40 lbs. per 4 x 8 sheet), it may not be because they're out of standard weight drywall. Some places don't carry standard weight.

No need for a stab saw. You can cut all the way through 1/2" drywall with a utility knife if you make enough passes and you'll make less dust.

Remember the taper when measuring the thickness. Drywall is thinner at the edges of the long sides.

My local big box store sells two sheets to the pack. Don't take two packs thinking they're two sheets.


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## gma2rjc

Great thread! Thanks for all of the great tips. :thumbsup:

Barb


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## jklingel

*wet or dry tape?*

Opinions: Is it best, advisable, or worse to wet the drywall tape before laying it into the mud? I've always wet it (run it quickly through a bucket of water, then pull it through my fingers and squeegie it off ) so it does not dry the mud too quickly. Good idea? Bad idea? Doesn't matter stink? thanks.


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## Nailbags

jklingel said:


> Opinions: Is it best, advisable, or worse to wet the drywall tape before laying it into the mud? I've always wet it (run it quickly through a bucket of water, then pull it through my fingers and squeegie it off ) so it does not dry the mud too quickly. Good idea? Bad idea? Doesn't matter stink? thanks.


waste of time! no need to do it at all.


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## ToolSeeker

Great idea for Diyers it will totally eliminate bubbles in the tape whice new people are prone to because they are not sure how much or how little mud to leave under the tape.


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## Jim McC

*How wide of a gap can be fixed properly?*

We just drywalled my daughter's basement ceiling. The walls were already done by a previous owner. The problem is, one of the ceiling sheets is short by 5/8" at the widest point, where it meets the wall. The gap runs perpendicular to the ceiling joists. I saw online where they first put up mesh tape, then mudded the wall/ceiling joint. Will that work with a 5/8" wide gap, or is there a better way? Thanks.


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## jklingel

I've been told, here, to not use the mesh tape as it will not flex; therefor, you get cracks. Can you just cut the sheet back 8" or so and put in another, tapered strip to fit? 5/8" is pretty big, in my non-professional opinion.


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## Jim McC

jklingel said:


> I've been told, here, to not use the mesh tape as it will not flex; therefor, you get cracks. Can you just cut the sheet back 8" or so and put in another, tapered strip to fit? 5/8" is pretty big, in my non-professional opinion.


 If it cannot be repaired as it is, I would probably put up another sheet. 

Why is no one else responding?


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## jklingel

Jim McC said:


> Why is no one else responding?


 have you bathed recently? :laughing:


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## ToolSeeker

Take that sheet down and get a 10' sheet or 12' sheet. One reason not many answered is this is posted in the tips section. post the question in the regular section, in other words start a new thread.


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## Jim McC

ToolSeeker said:


> Take that sheet down and get a 10' sheet or 12' sheet.


 Why a 10' or 12' sheet? The piece is not even 8' long.


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## ToolSeeker

I thought the piece was too short.


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## Jim McC

ToolSeeker said:


> I thought the piece was too short.


 No. The gap is along the edge where the ceiling sheet meets the wall.


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## Jim McC

*Inside corners*

What is the easiest product for beginners to use for inside corners? I'd like to avoid the paper tape if possible. The walls were already drywalled and painted by a previous owner. 

1) The joint where walls meet ceiling?

2) Inside corner of soffit? 

Thanks.


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## yupper

Thanks for the tips.


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## scottktmrider

Jim McC said:


> What is the easiest product for beginners to use for inside corners? I'd like to avoid the paper tape if possible. The walls were already drywalled and painted by a previous owner.
> 
> 1) The joint where walls meet ceiling?
> 
> 2) Inside corner of soffit?
> 
> Thanks.


Trim tex makes different tapes that are heavier and wider to make it eaiser to work with for inside corners


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## ToolSeeker

Trim Tex doesn't make any tape to the best of my knowledge. No Coat makes 8' pre cut inside corners, pricey but easy and perfect corners. Strait flex also makes one called perfect 90 again a little pricey. Don't know what you have against paper tape, but my advice is use anything but the mesh. There is a great new product out there called FibaFuse but it is hard to use in corners.


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## Snakey

Thanks for the tips~!


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## sswood

If anyone is interested I found a free resource where you can get 8% cash back on every purchase you make at Lowes and Home Depot. It's free and the best kept secret around.

Just wanting to help...


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## jerrysian

I wish that I read this post before making this stupid mistake (and gluing the drywall down). Any suggestions for compensating for this? It will be a big job/expense to rip out the drywall and do it over.


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## ToolSeeker

jerrysian said:


> I wish that I read this post before making this stupid mistake (and gluing the drywall down). Any suggestions for compensating for this? It will be a big job/expense to rip out the drywall and do it over.


A lot of drywall is being glue down now, less fasteners=less chance of pops. Really shouldn't be much harder to remove unless you went crazy with the glue.


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## mathmonger

For inside corners, there is a special kind of tape called "Perfect 90". It is much stiffer than regular tape, but still flexes in the middle. It practically makes the corner for you. I love that stuff. 

For custom patches of any shape, use fiberglass window screening material.


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## DIYusually

Outside metal corner beads - take a look at a few YouTube installation videos (attach with screws or nails, dimple them in slightly, apply the harder-drying [and thus more resistant to the inevitable real-life bumps and scrapes] "hot" mud, use a 6" knife to spread the mud by letting one end of the knife ride on the corner nose of the bead, etc.).

Then, one thing many of the videos do not specifically state is that you do *not* need to or want to apply mud to the very nose of the metal corner bead (the "corner" of the corner bead). Two reasons: 1) It is very difficult to do and get a uniform tiny rounded corner the entire length of the bead, and 2) It's not practical - that's a spot that's prone to getting hit in real life; any mud you put on the very nose will likely crack and flake off when first hit so save yourself repeated future repair headaches.

Primer and topcoat paint will stick to the tiny portion of the exposed metal all the way up and down the corner bead. The future benefit is that paint-alone won't have the same "cracking and flaking off" reaction a hit on paint-over-mud on the corner can have, and even if the paint on a painted corner is scraped off by a hit, it's far easier and quicker to do a little touch-up painting that trying to apply some mud back on a little of exposed metal and then painting it again.


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## MDRYWALL

I don't really care for the no-coat sticks . I prefer the USG B1 Super wides 

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...-sheetrock-paper-faced-metal-corner-bead.html

I cant remember the last time i used a shiny 90. IMO The less fasteners in a sheet of rock the better the finish . Now and later on. wet green lumber or moisture in the board itself can cause all sorts of problems. And yes. too much glue in the fields can cause screw pops when the glue shrinks back. A 1/4 bead is all that's needed . That being said. I've walked into homes that wasn't glued with screw pops everywhere!! 

I have a you tube channel of some of my work If anyone Is interested in the type of work I do. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXVG9VWFvzcbqCutSnY0nTQ


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## halpad

Hi,
Several years ago in Home Depot, I found sheetrock compound in a caulking tube, I loved it! It worked great for sealing around trim(without the silicon shine). If you got too much on, no problem, just smooth it out and wallah, ready for paint. Apparently, it was not loved by enough people as I have not been able to find it for a while. I have just tried to google and also search HD and Amazon with no luck. Does anyone know if it is still available and if so where to get it?

Looks like I will be trying this method; (Removed)


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## KyleCresson

Just joined the forum to build my network of contractors. In home inspections now, but really intersted in growing into other areas soon. :smile::smile::biggrin2:

Kyle Cresson
PrimeFirst Inspections
Dallas, Texas


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## Ethanski

What is better, Home Depot or Lowes?


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## jeffmattero76

ToolSeeker said:


> When you open a bucket of drywall mud and don't use it all it can go bad and sour to stop this cover what mud is in the bucket with a little water and add a capful of bleach and seal. When ready to use pour off the water and bleach then stir.


I have often thought about doing this with the bleach, but always wondered if the compound eould be affected negatively by the bleach. Have you noticed any issues when you go back a year later and use that compound? 

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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