# concrete blocks on garage slab



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

No need to go more the one block high.

Technically, the 6" block is stronger than the wood frame above, but the added strength is not needed.

Around here, block stem walls are commonly used and the block are laid up to about 8 " above the planned slab elevation. This allows the anchor bolts to start below the slab level and then project through the sill plate and hold everything together and resist uplift. After that, a 4" a floating slab can be poured and sloped for the desired drainage (flat, to the overhead door or to a floor drain). The floating slab can be put in after the garage is enclosed and the weather is under control. The slab has wire and is air entrained because of the temperatures and salt droppings.

You are smart to have the block curb because it makes it easy to sweep out or hose and wash out and get the wood above the soil without collecting water around the garage.

Dick


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## bushmoose (Oct 17, 2010)

I plan to just pour a floating slab on grade and lay the blocks on the slab afterwards. It's all approved with the building inspector so that part is good to go. I just wanted some opinions about using 1 row instead of 2 as some fella's have told me to do. Thanks for the reply!


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Simple logic tells me that 1 row would actually be more stable than 2. Plus you'll be hard pressed to find anchor bolts readily available for 2 courses.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

"I plan to just pour a floating slab on grade"
No footers around the perimeter? Not sure I would just pour a slab without footers. That's a lot of weight on that outer edge. I did my shop building, unattached to the home, this way with one course of block. Never have regretted it. We tried very hard to slope the floor from back to front towards the larger shop doors for drainage. My plans were to use a garden hose, brush, etc. to clean the floor occasionally. All that went astray when the wifey and son decided that old Dad had built them a "storage building". :laughing: David


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## bushmoose (Oct 17, 2010)

Thurman said:


> "I plan to just pour a floating slab on grade"
> No footers around the perimeter? Not sure I would just pour a slab without footers. That's a lot of weight on that outer edge. I did my shop building, unattached to the home, this way with one course of block. Never have regretted it. We tried very hard to slope the floor from back to front towards the larger shop doors for drainage. My plans were to use a garden hose, brush, etc. to clean the floor occasionally. All that went astray when the wifey and son decided that old Dad had built them a "storage building". :laughing: David


There will be an 8" x 16" footing sloped to the floor, which will be 5" thick. I plan to run 2 course's of 5/8" rebar around the footing with 3/8" rebar 2' oc throughout the floor.
I've already given orders that it will NOT be used as storage and the sign will be up "no gurls aloud" to confirm that:thumbup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Remember the sill sealer unless you use a v.b. under the slab: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ressure-treated-sill-plates-and-building-code

Don't extend the sheathing onto the block or it could wick moisture up into your framing. Leave a gap between sheets, awww, you know the rest.

Gary


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

that's a ' thickened edge ' slab also called a monopour or unipour,,, 1 row of block's fine,,, we would fill the cells w/grout


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