# Standby generator on/off switch



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Check the diagram for the unit. You may need to take a picture of the diagram and post it. I tried to guess how to do it, but changed my mind.

Note: If the gen switch is in the open position when the unit is in automatic, you can run two wires to where ever you want and connect a single pole switch in parallel with the generator switch. Terminal to terminal.

Edit. Both "off" switches will need to connected in series, not parallel.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Where is the transfer switch? That is what is sending the run signal to the generator. There should be a set of contacts in there that you should be able to put a switch in series with and remove the "power fail" signal that starts the generator when in auto mode.

Post the info on the transfer switch. Drawings would be great.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

J. V. said:


> Check the diagram for the unit. You may need to take a picture of the diagram and post it. I tried to guess how to do it, but changed my mind.
> 
> Note: If the gen switch is in the open position when the unit is in automatic, you can run two wires to where ever you want and connect a single pole switch in parallel with the generator switch. Terminal to terminal.


Thanks for the response. Here's the wiring diagram for the generator.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

joed said:


> Where is the transfer switch? That is what is sending the run signal to the generator. There should be a set of contacts in there that you should be able to put a switch in series with and remove the "power fail" signal that starts the generator when in auto mode.
> 
> Post the info on the transfer switch. Drawings would be great.


Thanks for the reply. Yes, it would be fine if something could be done at the transfer switch, but I don't see how that could work. In any case, here's the wiring diagram.


----------



## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

It's funny, one of my good friends has the same unit (B&S 7kW I assume) and has the exact same request. 

JoeD, once the unit is running I can't think of a way to shut it off from the transfer panel. You can keep it from starting by interrupting the start circuit, but I don't think that is a maintained contact.

I was going to install a SP switch on the outside of the generator unit with a rubber boot on it. This can most likely be wired in series with the small fuse in the wiring panel, but I haven't researched it yet.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Speedy Petey said:


> It's funny, one of my good friends has the same unit (B&S 7kW I assume) and has the exact same request.
> 
> JoeD, once the unit is running I can't think of a way to shut it off from the transfer panel. You can keep it from starting by interrupting the start circuit, but I don't think that is a maintained contact.
> 
> I was going to install a SP switch on the outside of the generator unit with a rubber boot on it. This can most likely be wired in series with the small fuse in the wiring panel, but I haven't researched it yet.



There has to be some sort of "run" signal that goes to the genny to tell it the power is out. I can't tell from drawing provided where that is. It probably comes from the control board.
Can you post a drawing of how the interconnect the genny to the transfer switch.


----------



## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

The genny does not care if the power is out, the transfer switch does. The transfer switch has a 240v sensing circuit (labeled 240v in the above image). 

Actually, along with the "start" function there has to be a "run" circuit from the switch to the genny, how else would the switch turn the genny off? 
I guess this should have been obvious to me. I have to dig into the wiring diagram some more.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

Speedy Petey said:


> The genny does not care if the power is out, the transfer switch does. The transfer switch has a 240v sensing circuit (labeled 240v in the above image).
> 
> Actually, along with the "start" function there has to be a "run" circuit from the switch to the genny, how else would the switch turn the genny off?
> I guess this should have been obvious to me. I have to dig into the wiring diagram some more.


I'm not an electrician (and I don't even play one on TV...), but my understanding is that it is the generator that senses when power goes out and turns itself on---and similarly it senses when power is restored and turns itself off. If you look at the attached image, point "B" is described as follows: "240 Volt Utility — Use to hook up the 240V utility leads from the transfer switch to the generator." That is, it is directly connected to the utility line and (I assume) this is how the generator senses when the power goes off. The transfer switch, on the other hand, simply serves to feed the power from the generator into the house, while making sure that power does not back feed into the utility line.

Of course, I could be wrong, but that's the way I understood it when I was installing it.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Sounds possible. It can be confirmed by pulling that plug off. The generator should start.
If that's true then my idea would not work since you would need to apply 240 volts to shut the genny off. I was hoping for some sort of contact that closes (or opens) to tell the genny to run. Then you could put a switch in series.

What is the make and model of the transfer switch? I would like to try and find a manual on line for it.


----------



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

I am sorry I cannot read the diagram you posted. It's a combination of my eyesight and the drawing size.
Speedy and Joed. Look at the switch labeled auto/off. If that switch will shut off the generator, does it not make sense that you could basically extend this switch? I am not an expert on generators by any means, but am very familiar with basic control functions. 

OP, Please see if you can post the drawing in another format that will allow me to make it larger, so I can read/see it.


----------



## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

You want to retrofit the generator with a switch system that replaces the auto-off switch. This may consist of a 3 way switch system or even a switch loop. No other wiring needs to be touched. You may wish to wait until the warranty expires since you will likely void the warranty when you disassemble the generator to do this project. It may be hard to find a 3 way switch that fits in the space the original switch was in and you may have to install an external switch box to hold the 3 way switch at the generator.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

joed said:


> Sounds possible. It can be confirmed by pulling that plug off. The generator should start.
> If that's true then my idea would not work since you would need to apply 240 volts to shut the genny off. I was hoping for some sort of contact that closes (or opens) to tell the genny to run. Then you could put a switch in series.
> 
> What is the make and model of the transfer switch? I would like to try and find a manual on line for it.


According to the generator manual, the “240V Utility” leads deliver power to the generator’s circuit board, optional battery warmer and oil warmer. This power also charges the battery. When power on these leads is lost, the generator will start."

The transfer switch is Briggs and Stratton model "01918" and, assuming that I can put a URL in here, the manual can be found at:
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/pdf/owners_manual/101\01918_0_om-Domestic.pdf
If that didn't work, just Google "01918_0_om-Domestic.pdf".


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

AllanJ said:


> You want to retrofit the generator with a switch system that replaces the auto-off switch. This may consist of a 3 way switch system or even a switch loop. No other wiring needs to be touched. You may wish to wait until the warranty expires since you will likely void the warranty when you disassemble the generator to do this project. It may be hard to find a 3 way switch that fits in the space the original switch was in and you may have to install an external switch box to hold the 3 way switch at the generator.


Thanks for the info. What do you mean by a "switch loop"?

Also, I voided the warranty when I installed it myself, but I saved almost as much money as the unit cost, so I figured it was worth the risk. Btw, B&S replaced the circuit board in the generator---which was bad out of the box---in spite of the fact that it was not discovered until after the install. It was kinda nice that they didn't quibble over that.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

J. V. said:


> I am sorry I cannot read the diagram you posted. It's a combination of my eyesight and the drawing size.
> Speedy and Joed. Look at the switch labeled auto/off. If that switch will shut off the generator, does it not make sense that you could basically extend this switch? I am not an expert on generators by any means, but am very familiar with basic control functions.
> 
> OP, Please see if you can post the drawing in another format that will allow me to make it larger, so I can read/see it.


You can get the generator manual here:
http://www.cs.sjsu.edu/~stamp/brown/040298_0esfw.pdf
The diagram above appears on page 29 (according to my pdf reader).


----------



## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> http://www.briggsandstratton.com/pdf/owners_manual/101\01918_0_om-Domestic.pdf
> If that didn't work, just Google "01918_0_om-Domestic.pdf".


If this rocker switch (item D in your first image) is a low current SPST or SPDT switch that commands the controller the problem gets easier.

Replace the rocker switch with a relay whose contact config. matches that of the rocker switch.
The two 3-way switches control the relay coil power and an indicating LED at each switch indicates if you're on Util or Gen power.
There is a ~20 mS power dropout when switching from one power to the other, so the relay coil runs on DC and a capacitor powers the coil during this transition.
You need a wall 'former that puts out DC to power the relay coil.

Switches, relay, 'former & misc. parts, less than $30 depending on where you buy them. Labor might be a day depending on your skill level.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> According to the generator manual, the “240V Utility” leads deliver power to the generator’s circuit board, optional battery warmer and oil warmer. This power also charges the battery. When power on these leads is lost, the generator will start."


That pretty much eliminates my idea for using the transfer switch unless you had a 240 volt UPS you could hook to that line to signal the generator to shut down.
You are goung to need to tap into the generator control circuits and bring a line inside if you don't want to go outside.


----------



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Looking at the drawing, I see an "over temperature" switch. If this shuts down the generator, then we can easily add another switch for you to use.
Check and see if it indeed does shut it down or just gives you a warning light. It shows it as NO. So you can jump it out to test.
I do not see the auto/off switch anywhere on the drawing!


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

There are several safety shutdowns(low oil, temperature, over speed) that could possibly be used to shut down the generator. All of them will require running a wire into the house to a switch. The only thing that needs to be verified is if the generator will restart without a reset on the control panel to clear the fault.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

joed said:


> There are several safety shutdowns(low oil, temperature, over speed) that could possibly be used to shut down the generator. All of them will require running a wire into the house to a switch. The only thing that needs to be verified is if the generator will restart without a reset on the control panel to clear the fault.


That's an interesting thought. There is an LED light that is supposed to be wired to the generator and placed inside the house. That light is used to indicate the various fault conditions by specific blinking patterns. I haven't bothered to wire that up yet, but it would be great if I could also use that to turn off the generator. However, according to the manual, "The operator must reset the fault detection system each time it activates", which is accomplished by turning the "auto/off" switch to "off" for at least 5 seconds! So, it looks like faking a fault would indeed turn the generator off, but then I'd have to go outdoors and go thru the usual routine to turn it back on.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

If you are going to go through the trouble of runing a cable to inside for an on/off switch it should just connect it to the auto/off switch. The main issue is running the wire and connecting the switch.


----------



## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

joed said:


> If you are going to go through the trouble of runing a cable to inside for an on/off switch it should just connect it to the auto/off switch. The main issue is running the wire and connecting the switch.


OK, that sounds good. Any advice on how this should be wired? I've done a fair bit of wiring on my house/generator/transfer switch, but I haven't come across anything quite like this before. That is, if I keep the original auto/off switch, then it's not going to be a 3-way switch type of configuration. Thanks.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I look at the drawings in the manual an could not find the actual auto/off switch on the drawing. You are going to need to open it up and see how the switch is wired.


----------



## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> . That is, if I keep the original auto/off switch, then it's not going to be a 3-way switch type of configuration.


For both starting and stopping capability at both inside and outside locations you will need a 3 way switch setup.

With the existing switch plus a regular switch indoors, one of the following scenarios will be the case:
1. Both switches have to be set correctly for auto mode; either switch can turn it off, or
2. Both switches have to be set correctly for off; either switch will throw the generator into auto mode.


----------



## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

What is your first choice for operations that you would like to do from either the house or the Gen?

What is your second choice, for lesser control from the house?


----------



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

AllanJ said:


> For both starting and stopping capability at both inside and outside locations you will need a 3 way switch setup.
> 
> With the existing switch plus a regular switch indoors, one of the following scenarios will be the case:
> 1. Both switches have to be set correctly for auto mode; either switch can turn it off, or
> 2. Both switches have to be set correctly for off; either switch will throw the generator into auto mode.


All they want is, to be able to shut it off, at night, when they do not need it.
Tell us what correctly is, and we can all call it a day.:whistling2:


----------



## icfish (Dec 13, 2014)

*Did we ever find a solution?*

Just curious if a remote switch was ever wired in. I have the same genny and our power has been out fir days.


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

The OP never said, and that was 5 years ago.
He has not been on the boards for almost 18 months, so I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for an answer.


----------



## Poncho144 (Nov 27, 2021)

Well, from a Safety angle and brevity, just build a Sound Damper enclosure around it but do not choke off the Air Cooling it.


----------



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

@Poncho144 you are responding to a 12 year old thread.


----------

