# Insulating Work Shed



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Only insulate the ceiling if you have soffits & a ridge vent. Otherwise, you can trap moisture.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Remember that insulation works both ways, while it insulates from heat from above it can also trap heat that is below. IMO figuring out a better ventilation system should be the first step.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Really hard to vent that, might be good place for foam, other may have something to say.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That's some really strange roof framing, good thing you have no snow loads there.
https://www.insulation4less.com/Ins...aspx?msclkid=4e188b354b3212a4d1bcd0482cff819f


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## APA (Jul 13, 2018)

Practical solution? Just fill it with r-19 and see what happens. Cut a place and frame for a "window" AC unit if you don't want to take up a window. They even make them that will heat and cool. Some of the stuff posted here just worries folks for no reason. Some of the stuff I have seen in houses that are 50+ years old is just terrible work, but the house is still standing.


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## CodeMatters (Aug 16, 2017)

I dunno....maybe add a drop/false ceiling with tunnel for the skylight. Would then 
be able to add a series of small air inlets at the top of the walls on the non-gable 
sides. Drop ceiling could be framed with metal studs to keep the weight down.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

I wouldn't over think it. Just use fiberglass batts. It's a shop/ studio and I doubt indoor humidity is going to be so high that you get condensation up there. Ventilation would be nice to cool off the roof a bit, but I bet you can get by without it.


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## CodeMatters (Aug 16, 2017)

Marson said:


> I wouldn't over think it. Just use fiberglass batts. It's a shop/ studio and I doubt indoor humidity is going to be so high that you get condensation up there. Ventilation would be nice to cool off the roof a bit, but I bet you can get by without it.



I had a building before where a previous owner insulated immediately 
below roof decking. The heat build up destroyed the shingles in no time.


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## rrmccabe (Sep 3, 2018)

I doubt you meant it but you really do not want to "pack" insulation in. More is not better if you are smashing it down.


Also, you might want to look at a mini split instead of window air and space heater. It will do the job of both and in a much nicer package. At only 12' wide I would drop the ceiling and box an opening for your skylight and then you can easily insulate to the R40 + range.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I would look at building a bit of a false ceiling so that there is a basic attic space, that way it will be ventilated. You also want to design it so that you can properly tie in the vapour barrier all around and above. Vapour barrier is on the warm (conditioned) side. The most continuous it is the more efficient it will be. I find this is something a lot of people - even pros, skimp on. It's almost just as important as the insulation itself as it will stop air leaks and drafts. Apparently they have a new tape for that now, it's blue, and better than the red tape. Have not really used it myself though. I usually use acoustic sealant too. The drywall or plywood or whatever wall finishing you put will also help press on seams so that it's sealed properly. 

Also if buying insulation may as well go with Roxul. It's not that much more expensive and is better than fibreglass.


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