# Straight sagline across drywall ceiling



## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

I have a straight line about 1 inch wide where the dry wall is sagging. I'm guessing this is at the seam where two panels meet? Does that sound right or do you think it something else? I'll post a picture when I get it in the correct format for posting. If it is the seam how long and how much money would it take to repair. Is this something a complete noob like myself could do? Also when you tell me how much it would take to repai tale into consideration that I would need to buy all the tools. Thanks.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

benchmarkman said:


> I have a straight line about 1 inch wide where the dry wall is sagging. I'm guessing this is at the seam where two panels meet? Does that sound right or do you think it something else? I'll post a picture when I get it in the correct format for posting. If it is the seam how long and how much money would it take to repair. Is this something a complete noob like myself could do? Also when you tell me how much it would take to repai tale into consideration that I would need to buy all the tools. Thanks.


1inch X ?? 4foot 8foot 12foot? 

what kind of finish does the ceiling currently have that you will need to match, knock down, orange peel etc.. ? 

a picture will be very helpful :thumbsup:


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

It goes across the whole celing so I would say 8ft. Picture of part of the sag attached.


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

i cant tell what texture that is (that picture is a little rough) but from what i can tell it looks like the paper tape that covers your drywall board joints is coming off of the drywall (a small water leak COULD have been the cause), but from the picture it doesnt look like the drywall itself is sagging but i could be wrong, i am only going off of what i can see in the picture & the picture quality is rough.


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## benchmarkman (Sep 30, 2009)

Axecutioner-B said:


> i cant tell what texture that is (that picture is a little rough) but from what i can tell it looks like the paper tape that covers your drywall board joints is coming off of the drywall (a small water leak COULD have been the cause), but from the picture it doesnt look like the drywall itself is sagging but i could be wrong, i am only going off of what i can see in the picture & the picture quality is rough.


 
I don't think its textured at all. I agree that it looks like the tape. Again I ask how difficult/expensive to repair taking into account I have to buy all tools?


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

if you do google or youtube search on how to apply drywall joint compound & paper tape or mesh, & you get a couple of (cheap) drywall knives & a cheap pan it should cost less than $50 to fix that not including paint. It really shouldn't be too difficult. I'll see if i can find a link to a video that i think is pretty helpful


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## Axecutioner-B (May 18, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6UFCrOZ-x0

this repair should be pretty similar to what you are doing. With yours i would remove the old tape altogether probably with a utility knife & then mesh tape over it & then start applying your mud. Mesh tape is easier to work with than paper tape although you will find people who refuse to use mesh. In your case, i would use mesh tape.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Definitely remove the old tape. You could be wasting your time if you don't. A poorly adhering piece of tape is not a good base to build upon.
I personally would never use mesh tape unless I had no other choice, but beginners often seem to find it easier to work with.
Click HERE for a little better understanding of what tape does, and how to apply it.


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

if you use mesh tape, make sure it's set in setting compound aka hot mud. if you're redoing that line the 3 knives you will need are a 6" knife, 8" knife and 11" curved trowel. home depot has all, the trowel is 18 bucks and the other two are 6ish each. one bag of 90 minute setting compound $8 and a 1 gallon bucket of all purpose lite should do the trick. you could get actual topping compound for the 3rd coat since it's easier to see when applying and easier to sand, up to you.

i would never use mesh tape on new construction but i have seen it work just fine for many years on homes that are 10+ years old and already settled.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Willie T, you will be surprised at this! pp. 210, 213, 216, and 254 and the pictures: http://www.curee.org/projects/EDA/docs/CUREE-EDA03-public.pdf

Be safe, Gary


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

One trick you might adopt from metal repair is to find the end of a running crack (say, from a door corner out into the room) and at the very final end of that crack, cut out a 1" round hole. This will help greatly in creating a dead end stop for the crack. Left as just a simple crack line, the crack will have a tendency to continue on its original path. Ending the crack with a circle (the 1" hole) stops the continuing progression of the crack dead in its tracks. It will go no further as the walls move slightly in the future.


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