# Sprinkler control wiring re-connect (diagram)



## ScottR (Oct 6, 2008)

Here's a couple of pics.. I don't know how helpful they'll be -- the wiring is a mess. 

I currently have valve B hooked up to the blue wire, so zone 4 works. When I first looked at the wiring, the splices for the blue and green wires had no wire nuts.

The white wire is also common, tied together with the black @ the controller.









_Box in front yard. From left to right: Valve A, B and C.









Box in back yard.

_Full-size images, in case they make it more clear:

http://www.codecrunchers.com/scott/pics/diychatroom/sprinkler/sprinkler_front_box_full.jpg

http://www.codecrunchers.com/scott/pics/diychatroom/sprinkler/sprinkler_back_box_full.jpg


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## ScottR (Oct 6, 2008)

*UPDATE:* I just whipped out my multimeter. Looks like when any zone is on, I get 24V between that zone's connection and any other zone. The zones that are off read 6 Ohms to each other.

So it seems that an *off *zone becomes a common connection.

If I hook up valve B to both the green and blue wires it should work. Does anyone see a problem with this? Don't want to burn out my controller sending current back to a zone connection.


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## ScottR (Oct 6, 2008)

It's been raining nearly every day here since my last post, so I didn't get around to testing things until today.

Connecting valve B to the green and blue wires did nothing (valve B would not actuate). I'm not sure why, as I was still able to detect 24V between the 2 wires when either zone 3 or 4 was on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.. :help: Thanks!

PS - Sprinkler controller is Orbit model 57586. I can get pics of the wiring there later tonight -- my wife absconded with the digital camera.

Very similar to this:


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## Kap (Jun 20, 2008)

Remove valve B. 

Problem solved.

It serves no purpose that i can see.


Or leave valve B in place, and turn it on manually and leave it on.


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