# I replaced my ac fan motor and capacitor and the fan motor still turns off intermittently.



## Lost in Vegas (Jul 21, 2012)

Also... now the unit shuts down within 5-minutes of starting.... If I don't shut it off, it just blows hot air since the fan motor is not firing up to cool the house off. Whats up with this thing? You would think by 9:30 at night it would be cool enough to run awhile. But no dice.. I need major help. Thanks to whoever has an idea why this thing isn't working. Lost in Vegas.


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## clocert (Oct 14, 2010)

You have to find out if the contactor was pulled in at that time. If not, why ? And when the fan stops, does the compressor continue run ?


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## Lost in Vegas (Jul 21, 2012)

*Lost in Vegas wirtes:*

I didn't know you needed to put in a 'contactor'... Since this wasn't replaced is it a possibility that I need one? I've replaced the same ac fan motor and capacitor in the past and it always worked before.

When the fan motor stops working so does everyting else. No sounds or motor noised coming from ac unit at all. This included the compressor. Please help!


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## scottmcd9999 (Jun 29, 2012)

You don't need to install a contactor; clocert was saying that you should look at the contactor to see if it's pulled in when you're having the trouble (be CAREFUL doing this - there 240 volts on the contactor, so don't go poking around).

If the contactor is pulled in, the compressor and fan should be running. If they're not, then you'll have to find out why. If you have a meter and know how to use it, you can check for 240 volts at the motor (and again, be CAREFUL doing this). 

When the unit stops, is the fan motor HOT to the touch? All motors will generate a little heat, but if it's too hot to put your hand on, then something is wrong with the motor, or it's installed/wired incorrectly.


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## Lost in Vegas (Jul 21, 2012)

*Lost in Vegas wirtes:*

When the compressor and fan motor are running the top of the fan motor is NOT hot. When the unit 'kicks down' and stops running the top of the fan motor is still NOT hot. I am not an HVAC person so I didn't even know what a contact was until your thread mentioned it. I wish I knew what "pulled in" meant, but it's diffult to understand if you don't really even know what you're looking at.

Since I don't have a way to test it and have only changed out fan motors and capacitors... is this something that in inexperienced person can change out themselves or do I need to hire an HVAC specialist. The voltage thing and "you need to be careful" have me on edge. Any advise would be greatly appreicated. It's 110-114 degrees over here this summer, but it's a dry heat.:furious:


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## turnermech (Jul 21, 2012)

If what has been said so far made you nervous than call a contractor. Nothing to be ashamed of and not meaning to insult you.


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## clocert (Oct 14, 2010)

Contactor is a switch like relay device right next to your capacitor. IT has several wires connected to it. at least 4 regular size wires and 2 small wires. this small wire came from your house, you should see them outside of your condenser. IF you worry about the high voltage, don't touch it, just look to see if the contactor (there is a small button on the top) button pulled in or pops up when you turn on/off the AC from your T-stat. you need to watch that button while some one else can turn the AC on in the house. (you can also use a insulated stick push that button to manaully turn the condenser on if you want to)


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## turnermech (Jul 21, 2012)

If you still have the motor you took off make sure the RPM's are the same. See it happen a lot. Replace motor with same HP and Voltage but different RPM's and the motor will overheat. Also does you motor turn the correct direction. most after market motors are reversable. should blow air out the top in most cases.


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## wheelsup (May 4, 2012)

First I'm a homeowner not a tech...keep that in mind...but I can provide a little bit more "uneducated" perspective if you will...

The outside unit (called a condenser) has two pieces of equipment in it. The condenser fan motor is what you replaced. The other is the compressor. If both the condenser fan and compressor are shutting down you don't have a fan motor problem, you have a different problem IMO (guys here would be able to more direct you). Although the compressor WILL shut down after a certain time period with no fan running because of a thermal overload, it should continue running immediately after the condenser fan shuts off for a bit.

If you go out when the condenser fan shuts off and can hear a humming from within around the compressor, that indicates the problem isn't the compressor or power supply to it. Only thing left is the fan. If you replaced the motor and cap with the exact same specs the problem might lie in the logic of the unit (in my case the defrost sensor was bad). 

Anyway try and narrow it down a little bit more, otherwise call a tech out, and post back what they say. Honestly @ 110*F I wouldn't care what it costs I'm calling someone ASAP. Also maybe take this time to learn some more about a/c, the reason it's blowing hot air is because the compressor compresses the refrigerant and uses the condenser to cool it off then goes into your hose to expand it and make it even colder. No cooling outside = warm refrigerant.


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

Did the old capacitor have 3 separate posts (indicating a dual capacitor)?
Was the new capacitor a dual cap?
How did you wire the new motor and cap?
What is the make and model of the outdoor unit?
What is the make and model of your new motor?


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