# Removed walls with wire mesh, drywall patching



## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Sounds like you have what is known as Rock Lath with a 3/8 inch plaster base the wire mesh in the corners is Corner-Rite and it was used to keep the corners from cracking. Yes you can flatten and reuse for crack control.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I normally just fill in the void with drywall [shim if needed] and then tape the joints. I prefer to use Durabond for the repairs as it dries hard like plaster ..... and I have no actual plaster experience.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Sounds like you have what is known as Rock Lath with a 3/8 inch plaster base the wire mesh in the corners is Corner-Rite and it was used to keep the corners from cracking. Yes you can flatten and reuse for crack control.




No it’s 5/8 drywall. It’s only like this behind where the one wall intersects another wall. The wire mesh and the 1x6 is only at each inside corner. Everywhere else it’s just drywall and taped seams.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Fill it in with a solid material then tape and finish.?


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

ron45 said:


> Fill it in with a solid material then tape and finish.?




Yeah I think I will lay some drywall in there then tape and mud.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Sounds like you have what is known as Rock Lath with a 3/8 inch plaster base the wire mesh in the corners is Corner-Rite and it was used to keep the corners from cracking. Yes you can flatten and reuse for crack control.




After much research about your comment, I found out I have gypsum lath. I believe rock lath has holes in it where gypsum lath does not. 










For this repair I put 1/2” drywall and flattened out the metal mesh over it. Then mud. I used mesh tape wherever there was no metal over the joints. 










It’s going to take a few coats but should be mice and smooth when I’m done. Now I have to see if I can replicate hr sand swirl ceiling texture with mud.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rock Lath was made with out the holes & with holes plus some had a foil backing. Most was sheets 16 inches X 48 inches. From the last photo's you have the Rock Lath System the corner rites are 3/8 inch expanded metal Lath.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Rock Lath was made with out the holes & with holes plus some had a foil backing. Most was sheets 16 inches X 48 inches. From the last photo's you have the Rock Lath System the corner rites are 3/8 inch expanded metal Lath.




Good info. Thank you. Now it makes sense why it’s about 11/16” thick.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

Ugh. That metal mesh is such a PITA. and dangerous. Wear gloves, be careful, and you'll still have a good chance of getting sliced by it at some point. 
As others have already suggested, you're probably better off just using the drywall.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

For your base coats you can use a perlite plaster than finish with a veneer plaster finish.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> I found out I have gypsum lath. I believe rock lath has holes in it where gypsum lath does not.


I always thought those were different names for the same thing. The early gypsum lath had holes because they thought the plaster needed to be 'keyed' into it similar to how it does with wood lath. They found out that wasn't needed so they no longer had holes in the gypsum lath.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> Ugh. That metal mesh is such a PITA. and dangerous. Wear gloves, be careful, and you'll still have a good chance of getting sliced by it at some point.
> As others have already suggested, you're probably better off just using the drywall.




I was able to get one coat over the metal lath without an issue.


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## That Guy (Aug 19, 2017)

ClarenceBauer said:


> For your base coats you can use a perlite plaster than finish with a veneer plaster finish.


This is actually a really good idea, for two reasons:

1) unlike drywall compound you can really pack it in there, and go a lot thicker than you can with drywall compound alone.

2) if you fill your void with plaster basecoat, to about 1/8" below the surrounding surface, when you lay your mud youll only have to do one coat... saving you time and work :vs_cool:


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

That Guy said:


> This is actually a really good idea, for two reasons:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I wish I did that before I already packed a coat of mud in there.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

Can I apply plaster on top of the mud layer I already put on?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

If you used a sheetrock type mud like a Joint compound or most setting compounds than NO you cannot apply a Gypsum product over it as it will delaminate after a short while.
What did you use u to this point?


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

ClarenceBauer said:


> If you used a sheetrock type mud like a Joint compound or most setting compounds than NO you cannot apply a Gypsum product over it as it will delaminate after a short while.
> 
> What did you use u to this point?




I’ve used mesh tape and dust control joint compound.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)




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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

veeps said:


>




It’s rough and the mesh is still showing thru at this point. It’s about 1/4” below the surface in spots. Some areas don’t have wire showing thru. What if I wet the surface and poke holes thru?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Mesh tape is maybe OK.
The dustless compound that you used is water soluble and most likely would not hold up when a thick layer of another plaster is applied over it. 
Try this recipe mix 1 part of regular joint compound like tapping mud with 1 part lime putty I like Ivory Lime but you can use most Masons Lime now add two parts sand play sand will be fine use this as your base coats apply in thin layers so as not to loosen the Dustless compound. If you want it to set faster add some moulding plaster ( Plaster of Paris ) if you don't use moulding plaster than your mix will keep as long as it is covered.
For your finish delete the sand from the above mix this should give you a very smooth finish. Do not apply thick as it will release due to the joint finish material that is on the area now. Where you got this recipe I have no idea.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

A bug just went thru my brain.
Coat the existing with PEEL-STOP this should help with the moisture.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

So I have a bag of plaster of Paris. can I just mix that with my joint compound and go to town over the existing joint compound without anything like peel stop?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

I am not a big fan of joint compounds. Mixing Plaster of Paris will cause the joint compound to set very fast depending the amount mixed in. Try a small amount say 2 cups of each trowel it on than see if it spider web cracks?
You could try adding some sand maybe 2 cups? What is the intended material for your finish coat?


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

I mixed some plaster of Paris with the joint compound and it dried much faster and no cracking. Probably did a mixture of 25% plaster of Paris. Maybe I can use this same mixture with a little bit of silica sand when I do the final coat on the ceiling to get the rough swirl texture.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Let it dry for 24 hrs. minimum than check for cracking.
You can mix any amount of the two materials the set time and strength is what will be affected.
Also if you are in an area that has high humidity it may be advisable to add more Plaster of Paris?
As for adding sand no problem the sand increase strength provided you don't add more sand than binders.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

There was no cracking after 24 hours and it was nice and hard so I went with another coat. It’s a lot harder than the joint compound alone as well. I’m able to work it with a lot of pressure once it starts to set and get it really smooth too. It still needs another 2-3 coats as some spots are still quite low and some spots have the mesh showing thru. 

The first picture is an area I tested a technique using a rough sponge to get a swirl finish to match my ceiling. Should work even better with sand in the mix. This was after yesterday’s coat. 









Here is after today’s coat. 









You can see the mesh showing rust because of the water from the mix.


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## That Guy (Aug 19, 2017)

Now that its dry, take a piece of wood, or other ridgid thing, and place it against the wall, over your patches. This will tell you if your patches are high, or low.

the industry term:darby


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

That Guy said:


> Now that its dry, take a piece of wood, or other ridgid thing, and place it against the wall, over your patches. This will tell you if your patches are high, or low.
> 
> the industry term:darby




Thanks. I already did that.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Let us know how it looks after priming it.


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## veeps (Sep 7, 2017)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Let us know how it looks after priming it.




I will. Might take a few more nights after work to get enough coats of mud on there


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