# HELP, my black thumb is killing all my new plants!



## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

I'm a new homeowner. I'm planting some new plants in my front yard and it's not going well. Some lavender and blue fescue. It's the lavender I'm worried about.

I'm in Los Angeles. 










Here are some photos of the lavender. They start out nice and full, then start to shrink. The branches closest to the dirt and root get dry and brittle. 





































At first I worried it needed more water, but I was watering them quite a bit. Maybe it's overwatering? And the irrigation system I installed is watering at the root, not sure if that's a problem. When planting I added some new soil to the hole before putting the plant in, as well as some fertilizer. Maybe I need more new dirt? 

Some of the blue fescue was looking bad too, I think those were overwatered since the root seemed to be rotting. 

What am I doing wrong?


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

You may be overwatering or over fertilizing. Look up your Climate Zone & what plants grow best there. I like Sunset Magazine's zones the best for that area. "Los Angeles" has a few. The plants were probably fertilized in the nursery. Try to find out where they came from. They might be grown by the ocean & you have them inland where it's hotter or vice versa. You can look up the nursery on the pot or info that came with the pot -those little plastic arrows that come in the pot & say the plant's name.

A plant grown by the ocean won't do well inland. Late Summer isn't the best time to transplant plants. Way too hot.

Test your soil. There are inexpensive soil tests in garden ctrs & hardware stores.

Make sure your wood mulch isn't affecting your plants.

Are the plants on the porch getting enough sun? Read up on each plant. Lavender is more of a xeriscape plant. Drier.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Also, check the soil for grubs &/snails under pots, or snail trails. Lots of hungry snails in LA.

There are some beautiful geraniums that grow well in LA.

It isn't your fault if the original nursery is in a different climate zone like Ventura & the plants are sold in a hotter area.


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## Druidia (Oct 9, 2011)

Do your pots and those planters have drainage holes?

Even if the pots have holes, if they’re in a planter without holes and you don’t remove excess water after watering, then the roots are going to be sitting in water. = overwatering, plants will rot.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Purchase a soil moisture meter so you have an idea if you are over watering or under. You may have planted the plants too deep once you added the mulch.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I don’t fertilize new plants for fear of burning the roots. Most things I buy are from a local nursery where all plants are grown within 100 miles. 

It took me some experimenting and lots of dead plants before learning what did best in my yard. 

Good luck and enjoy gardening.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful relies. There's a lot to learn and think about regarding my issue(s). 

I think I can rule out the location of the plants. I'm purchasing from a reputable nursery in the area. A lot of the landscapers use them. I'll look into it though.

Overwatering might be an issue. I'll get a meter, that's a great idea.

But I think the answer is over fertilizing. I didn't realize that could kill a plant. The plants are probably already fertilized and I added a handful of fertilizer to each plant, at the root. I shouldn't have done that. I'm going to get a tester and see what's going on. 

The question is now, if it's too much fertilizer, what can I do? More water? But that can be a problem too. Maybe I can try to swap out the soil around the plants that are still in decent shape and see how it goes. And worst case, start over with new plants and soil and use the tools you've mentioned to get it right.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

When you overwater a plant it suffocates the roots. With drought tolerant or low water type plants it is important to water and then let the soil dry out completely before watering again. It is not like a lawn where over watering is not a big deal. 



I plant everything on a drip circuit that needs roughly the same amount of water. Plants that require more water are grouped so they are on a common circuit that I can adjust the water cycle and duration.


Some plants are shallow rooted, like Spanish lavender, and so need more frequent watering, and I avoid such plants. Others like salvias have evolved for centuries in the desert climate of southern California and do very well with little or no water and are very hardy plants. 



See what your neighbors have planted and take pictures of the ones you would like to have in your yard. I also look at what is growing well on public areas where they get little or no care as these are also hardy plants that will require less care.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

RVC1 said:


> Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful relies. There's a lot to learn and think about regarding my issue(s).
> 
> I think I can rule out the location of the plants. I'm purchasing from a reputable nursery in the area. A lot of the landscapers use them. I'll look into it though.
> 
> ...


You can change the soil. You have to be very gentle with the roots. I still remember my father teaching us to put about a qtr of the pot's worth of soil in the pot, then add the plant, then dry soil & use a gentle stream of water to put the soil around the roots.

Earthworms are a sign of healthy soil. You can buy potting soil with earthworm castings. They even grow in pots. They aerate & fertilize the soil.

Many pots have root bound plants for lack of space. You can loosen the root ball & put in a larger pot with more soil. Careful to never break off a tap root.

Sunset Western Garden book is a great source of info & ideas.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

I'm sure about this particular lavender, but the plants I'm using are all good for this area. I have lavender and this grass in the back and they're doing well. 

I'm going to try to try to change some of the soil and see if I can save what's there. 

As for overwatering, I'll try to follow the process you've mentioned, water then let it dry before watering again. Though I thought plants need more water at first to establish? What is a good schedule to start? Generally it's once a week? So maybe do twice to start? Of course I'll check the soil to judge as well.

Thanks!


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

I may not have been clear. It's not that the lavender isn't right for the zone, it's that it may have been grown in a cooler, more humid area. I've seen that more & more often in recent years.

LA is pretty dry compared to the East Coast. It takes real effort to overwater in the Summer.


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

@RVC1, nice to meet you!

Where, exactly, in Los Angeles are you? Just the major cross-streets or neighborhood name. The reason I ask is that, Mar Vista or Brentwood, on the one hand, and Woodland Hills or Pacoima, on the other, or El Sereno, on still another are similar but very different, especially at this time of year.

First, don't kick yourself for having trouble with Lavender. _Lavendula_ species can get really tempermental. I know this because I managed a garden shop 30+ years ago, and lavender was almost as much of a thorn in the side as people driving trucks through the sales yard after crashing the nursery fence . . . I'm exaggerating a bit, but the point is that Lavender are tempermental

I note that you have it doing well in another part of your yard? If so, please take and post a picture.

I suspect, offhand, that your problem lavender might be getting more shade than it likes. They're sun lovers, for sure.

Also what species do you have? Some _Lavendula_ will grow in Ohio (where I'm originally from) while others are strictly Mediterranean plants.

And, show us the rest of your garden!

_Love _the Society Garlic! Easy to grow, no shame in enjoying it. 

Hope this helps . . .


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Thanks for your replies. Here's an update:

*DoomsDave* (great name!), I'm in North Hollywood. The believe it is english lavender? The nursery had three different types. They said this one would do well here in LA. Lavender is a difficult plant (I'm finding), and maybe this species is more delicate. I will go with rosemary or something else when replacing. And *Nik333*, I don't know for sure where it originates from, however this nursery is selling to the community here and I suspect it's me not them. 

Yes the lavender was doing better in other spots, however all of it seems to now be taking a turn for the worse. About a week ago, I pulled some soil from around the roots and put new fresh potting soil, hoping to take out the fertilizer. Some of the plants are looking worse. So I can't be sure if it was too late or changing some soil made them worse. And watering less has not helped. 

The thing is, the blue fescue isn't doing well either. Some are ok but some are dying. I changed the soil on some fo those as well, we'll see if they survive. Does this give any indication of what's going on?










Yes! I love that garlic too. I'm trying to find hardy things and layer and get the front looking nice, but the problem sections are holding me up. I want to just start over but I fear it will happen again. I want to figure it out before digging it all up. When I do, I imagine I should take out a bunch of soil and put as much new soil in as I can? I had a landscaper do my back yard and things are looking good there (I'll post some pics next time). So the soil is generally good here. There's a different lavender back there that's thriving. My only issue back there is gophers!!!!!! Maybe I need to start another post for that one, I can't get rid of them and they're eating roots. Ugh, homeownership is tough! 

Oh, I plan to get a soil testing kit like someone suggested, I'll see if that provides some answers.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

I purchased a meter. The pH level seems to be fine. Mostly at about a 6 or 7. Does that mean it's not the fertilizer? I guess it's possible that I've flushed it out at this point? 

As for the moisture, I did notice that the two sections where I'm having the problem are still very wet even after over a week of not watering. The other areas, like the hedges, are dry. I guess they're not draining properly? But they're not planters, it's soil in the ground, that should drain no? Also surprising given the heat and climate here. It was about 100 yesterday, just fyi. 

I guess my next move is to plant new plants and water very lightly and see how it goes.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

RVC1 said:


> I purchased a meter. The pH level seems to be fine. Mostly at about a 6 or 7. Does that mean it's not the fertilizer? I guess it's possible that I've flushed it out at this point?
> 
> As for the moisture, I did notice that the two sections where I'm having the problem are still very wet even after over a week of not watering. The other areas, like the hedges, are dry. I guess they're not draining properly? But they're not planters, it's soil in the ground, that should drain no? Also surprising given the heat and climate here. It was about 100 yesterday, just fyi.
> 
> I guess my next move is to plant new plants and water very lightly and see how it goes.


Did you test the soil for Nitrogen, Potash, etc?
You'd have to check the soil under & around the plants to see why they're still moist.
I guess I'm cynical, but because he's a landscaper doesn't mean it's good soil.

Are these the plants in the shade?


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Irrigation systems can be uneven in flow, also.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

No I just used a meter that checks for pH. I'll have to get a kit to see more then, huh? 

Can these other things cause the soil to retain more moisture? 

Also, I did put new potting soil in each hole around the new plants. And about the sun, yes most are in the shade from a large tree. There are a few on the end that get more sun and they didn't do any better.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Yes, Nitrogen, Potash & Potassium levels make a big
difference. It's an inexpensive soil kit at a hardware store. Or you can send away for a fancier result.

I'd really like to recommend the Sunset Western Garden book, again.

I had poor luck with the moisture control potting soils. Too much moisture.

Start from the beginning with gardening, checking off all the variables possible. If you find you don't enjoy it, hire someone. I like nothing better than shaking up dirt & water, adding a chemical & measuring the resultant color with dirty hands.:smile:

Sunset also has photos of beautiful gardens in the area. Count how many hours the front has shade. You may need a plant for shade.

When plants wilt past a certain point, they can't come back.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Sorry, I was distracted. 
You find the result of the soil test then add the appropriate "amendment" that you ordered or bought from the nursery and enjoy a healthier plant.

It does take work & there may be several variables rather than one magic bullet. That's why you should enjoy it. It's a combination of yard work, science, art & nuturing.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

True, it may be more than one variable. But it shouldn't be super difficult either. I'm going to get a more comprehensive tester. Then when I start over, I'm going to water very little and do very little. I'll also swap as much of the soil as possible. Maybe the soil is retaining too much water. I'll look into a soil without the moisture control, maybe? 

I think I do enjoy it. I enjoy the planning, execution, then the troubleshooting (to a degree) and of course, seeing the success. I've been rewarded in this area with woodworking and upgrades, repairs, etc. The landscaping has been challenging. I have no experience. I'll get there. But I paid for the back to be done. I wanted to be able to do the rest myself. I can post some pics of the back if interested. I did some things as well.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

So I have some soil results. What I did was take some soil from near the root, trying to get some of the new soil that was used when planting (which would include some fo the fertilizer, I'd imagine) and some fo the main soil that was in the bed/ground already. 

Ph: 7.0 Neutral
P: P1 Deficient (may have been borderline P2 Adequate)
N: N1 Deficient
K: K1 Adequate

So Does it seem like these numbers would cause such poor plant health? Or maybe this combined with the moisture levels? And can any of this add to the soil retaining the moisture? 

From what I can read, seems like I need some compost and nutrients to correct the P and N? How do I go about this? And does this rule out too much fertilizer as a problem, or just the wrong type? 

Thanks all.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Yes! Good job. Does it say how deficient?


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Different people here like different fertilizers. Some even use sewer sludge with beautiful results. See TwoKnot's garden, & DoomsDave's palms.

I prefer Osmocote for potted plants & even some flower beds. I was introduced to it by a gardener in Hawaii. Most nurseries & even Walmarts have it. It has a variety of levels of fertilizer chemicals. You can find the one that matches the deficiencies in your garden. So whereas normally you might pick the 14-14-14, for now pick the higher Nitrogen, higher Phosphorous and lower Potassium.

Do read up on what they each do. Low Nitrogen is like a human never getting protein to grow and function.

That's certainly a good start. There are other chemicals like iron you can deal with later, as well as organic matter (compost).

You mentioned your work in the back. Can you post photos.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

@SeniorSitizen- would you put up your soil in water in Mason jar photo? Thx.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Thanks for the feedback Nik333

As for how deficient, the ranges are:

4/Surplus - 3/Sufficient - 2/Adequate - 1/Deficient - 0/Depleted

So it was P-1 and N-1. 

I'll look into the different fertilizers as you suggested. I'm starting a compost however that won't be useful for a while. I'll see if I can purchase some compost to add as well. 

As for the back, here are some photos of what is currently looks like.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Speaking of the backyard, there are actually three lavender plants that are having an issue. They were doing great like the others (as you'll see from the previous photos), however they've recently developed a problem. There was some yellowing as well as drying and dying branches and leaves closer tot he root. See photos:




























Any idea what's happening here? I do have a gopher issue, not sure of they've been feasting on the roots of these three plants, idk.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Nik333 said:


> @*SeniorSitizen* - would you put up your soil in water in Mason jar photo? Thx.


Dirt test sample from SandburRanch.


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

Nik333 said:


> Different people here like different fertilizers. Some even use sewer sludge with beautiful results. See TwoKnot's garden, & DoomsDave's palms.
> 
> I prefer Osmocote for potted plants & even some flower beds. I was introduced to it by a gardener in Hawaii. Most nurseries & even Walmarts have it. It has a variety of levels of fertilizer chemicals. You can find the one that matches the deficiencies in your garden. So whereas normally you might pick the 14-14-14, for now pick the higher Nitrogen, higher Phosphorous and lower Potassium.
> 
> ...


Sewer sludge?

I haven't lately . . .


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

​


DoomsDave said:


> Sewer sludge?
> 
> I haven't lately . . .


No, that was TwoKnots. That was an awkward sentence. It has a name. . . Milgonite or something. Gives me the creeps but then her garden is beautiful.

Do you have any suggestions?


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

Nik333 said:


> ​
> No, that was TwoKnots. It has a name. . . Milgonite or something. Gives me the creeps but then her garden is beautiful.
> 
> Do you have any suggestions?


Yes her garden certainly is.

My suggestion is lots and lots of digging and adding organics. 

Stock advice over decades . . . . 

BUT, Milorginite has been recommended. I'm just too cheap to buy fert any more, since I've got tons of plant waste that I have to throw away, some of which I'm able to compost.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

RVC1 - do you like color in the garden? Once you get your soil fertile, some Fuchsia Bougainvillea would be lovely. They grow well in LA. There's a gorgeous pink & orange, sunset colored one, too.

If you drive around some of the older neighborhoods, you can see some long lasting plant beauties. Hancock Park is one.


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Ha, my wife keeps asking me to add some color to the landscaping. As you can see from what I've done so far I prefer the greens and blue greens, I like a small touch of color like the lavender or the garlic, but minimal I guess. She even mentioned the Fuchsia, I may consider. I'm actually going to build a trellis on the side of my garage to add some green there, I may pick a vine with color/flowers, I'll see.

Thanks for the suggestion!


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

@RVC1, yowza, as we used to say in the disco era.

I'm glad you finally posted pictures of your back yard. 

Very nice! Black thumb? Humph! Nuh-uh! Send that off to Sunset! A nice example of an easy-care backyard for their next Garden Book. Seriously. Nice study in understated elegance, good use of muted blues, grays and greens. 

Your pictures suggests what I had thought, which is that your environment is a bit too "lush" for the lavenders. I think that because of the obviously fat and happy mondo grass you have, which really appreciates a more woodsy environment. 

Lavenders are denizens of austere places, low water, low nutrients low everything, but lots of sun. Think Greek Islands, or similar. Some austere plants, when you give them a lush environment, just love it. Others, not so much, and in my experience, lavenders are in the latter category. (Other similar plants include Proteas, some cacti, etc.) 

So . . . . 

Unless you're in love with lavender, maybe try something else that gives you that look? There are many other far easier plants.

Of course, if you're up to a challenge, and/or you love the fragrance (mom sure did), keep trying. If that's the case, I suggest an experiment:

Maybe get a new plant, or dig up one of yours, and stick it in a pot, about a foot or so across and as deep, or a little bigger, and use some fast-draining soil for it. "Cactus mix" might be a little too fast draining, but maybe add some extra sand or perlite to regular potting mix. Pot it up, water it, and see if the plant does better than the one in your garden. And, at least half a day's direct sunlight, preferably from the west, in the afternoon. More is better. Water as needed, but let dry between waterings. (Water then nudge pot with hand or foot; feel how heavy it is. When it dries out, it feels light, give another drink.) 

I suspect you might already know a lot of this, but I offer a public service. 

No black thumb for you! :vs_cool:


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

RVC1 said:


> Ha, my wife keeps asking me to add some color to the landscaping. As you can see from what I've done so far I prefer the greens and blue greens, I like a small touch of color like the lavender or the garlic, but minimal I guess. She even mentioned the Fuchsia, I may consider. I'm actually going to build a trellis on the side of my garage to add some green there, I may pick a vine with color/flowers, I'll see.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion!


Hmm. How about Alyogyne, the Blue Hibiscus? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alyogyne_huegelii


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

There's a Lavender Ranch in Biggs, CA near here. You can see the hundreds if not thousands of lavender plants from Hwy 99.

The USDA Climate Hardiness Zone is 9b. I don't see that near LA. It's more like Riverside.


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

I wouldn't go by USDA hardiness zone; that only tells you how cold it might get.

Zone 9b in, say, Texas or Arizona or California are all quite different in various ways.

Lavender will grow by the sea if you keep it dry enough. 

(Public service announcement!)


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

DoomsDave said:


> I wouldn't go by USDA hardiness zone; that only tells you how cold it might get.
> 
> Zone 9b in, say, Texas or Arizona or California are all quite different in various ways.
> 
> ...


We don't know where he lives. LA is a huge area & the County even bigger.

By the sea to me is the beach towns. Different than way inland by say Whittier.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

I prefer the Sunset Western Garden book zones which include more variables. But it is still in the 9's.:smile:


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

Nik333 said:


> We don't know where he lives. LA is a huge area & the County even bigger.
> 
> By the sea to me is the beach towns. Different than way inland by say Whittier.


I think this one's in North Hollywood.


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

@RVC1, any new news?


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Hi guys, I did swap out a bunch of the lavender in the front. I used the same lavender from the same place and used a lot of new soil and they seem to be doing ok. Much less water and NO fertilizer. I need to do a new test and see where the soil is at this pint. However I did try some other lavender to change it up and see and those aren't doing well. One is already dead. It basically wilted, looking like it didn't have enough water, and is now shriveled and dead. 

I have another issue I'd like to get quick feedback on - I have ficus hedges on the front edge of my property. I forgot the drip valve on! I just noticed it, so the soil is VERY wet at this point. I think over a week, maybe two. I turned it off and won't water them for a very long time, of course. But do I need to worry? Is there something i can do? I don't want the roots to rot and loose them, I love the hedges.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

RVC1 said:


> Hi guys, I did swap out a bunch of the lavender in the front. I used the same lavender from the same place and used a lot of new soil and they seem to be doing ok. Much less water and NO fertilizer. I need to do a new test and see where the soil is at this pint. However I did try some other lavender to change it up and see and those aren't doing well. One is already dead. It basically wilted, looking like it didn't have enough water, and is now shriveled and dead.
> 
> I have another issue I'd like to get quick feedback on - I have ficus hedges on the front edge of my property. I forgot the drip valve on! I just noticed it, so the soil is VERY wet at this point. I think over a week, maybe two. I turned it off and won't water them for a very long time, of course. But do I need to worry? Is there something i can do? I don't want the roots to rot and loose them, I love the hedges.


I didn't see this, sorry. My impression is ficus loves water. Banyan in SE Asia are ficus relatives. But will check. Glad the new ones are doing well.
Did you ever look at the Sunset Western Garden book or website? There's info on most local plants.
@DoomsDave.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

Outdoor ficus likes moderate water. Hope it's better. If not, try to promote drainage. I don't know your layout or soil. Yes, the roots can rot with too much pooling water. Hopefully, there is good drainage. You can dig down & look & smell for rot.

Of more concern is the possibility of freezing. If you are in N. Hollywood, it seems to be 10b USDA Climate Hardiness zone or 20 or 21 Sunset Western Garden Book Zones. It's usually lows of 35-45 F but froze last year.

It's not like you can bring hedges in, but you can cover them if there is a freeze warning. Pay attention to the weather reports.

Your homework is figuring out your zone. Try the Sunset Western Garden website for the Los Angeles area. You'll be amazed at the beautiful ideas & gardens.


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## Nik333 (Mar 1, 2015)

I reread the thread & you did say the hedges' soil dried well. Hopefully, they're ok. There are tricks to do if not.

You probably don't know if your soil is compacted or sandy or what under the different areas of your garden. You'd have to use a shovel when you have time.


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

RVC1 said:


> Hi guys, I did swap out a bunch of the lavender in the front. I used the same lavender from the same place and used a lot of new soil and they seem to be doing ok. Much less water and NO fertilizer. I need to do a new test and see where the soil is at this pint. However I did try some other lavender to change it up and see and those aren't doing well. One is already dead. It basically wilted, looking like it didn't have enough water, and is now shriveled and dead.
> 
> I have another issue I'd like to get quick feedback on - I have ficus hedges on the front edge of my property. I forgot the drip valve on! I just noticed it, so the soil is VERY wet at this point. I think over a week, maybe two. I turned it off and won't water them for a very long time, of course. But do I need to worry? Is there something i can do? I don't want the roots to rot and loose them, I love the hedges.


Glad to hear! Thanks to @Nik333 for calling my attention . . . . :vs_cool:

Maybe give us a closeup of the Ficus hedge, and an overall full monty. I'll bet it's Ficus nitida. I call them one of the Dead People Plants. Meaning, you kill one from neglect, you're likely already dead yourself. And meaning, a perfect plant for busy people who don't like to have fuss over their plants. MUCH much tougher, in my experience, than their cousin, F. benjamina. (But take a pic, to confirm ID.) 

Jokes aside, if you put the water back on a regular cycle, and the soil dries a bit between watering, you should be okay. There's a Ficus hedge on the south edge of my place I'd HAPPILY give you, if my neighbors would let me.

Ficus generally want: LOTS of heat. Most species also appreciate regular water, but also good drainage; a few are quite drought tolerant, too, and that includes F. nitida. San Fernando Valley is a perfect home.

And happy holidays!


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## RVC1 (May 9, 2018)

Thanks for the feedback guys. I think the hedges are ok. As you said, ficus are a hardy plant and can withstand a lot. I hope anyway. The crazy thing is, after all the watering, we had a crazy stretch of rain...like two weeks. So I was extra worried but then it dawned on me that they can handle periods of heavy watering, as long as there is drainage, which I believe these do have. I'll keep an eye on them. 

As for an update on the main area I posted about, things seem to be doing a lot better. I swapped out a few of the lavender plants. Two of the new ones have died but others are looking great. And some of the original plants have turned around and look better. My guess at this point is, the extra fertilizer along with the heat. I probably wasn't a great time to plant new plants. If it was a matter of too much water then these would've died too, after that long stretch of rain. But they didn't. Doesn't seem likely to overwater them that easily. So next step - replace the last two and watch them get established before the heat returns. You mentioned frost which is something I'll have to watch for. 

Happy Holidays to you too!


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## DoomsDave (Dec 6, 2018)

RVC1 said:


> Thanks for the feedback guys. I think the hedges are ok. As you said, ficus are a hardy plant and can withstand a lot. I hope anyway. The crazy thing is, after all the watering, we had a crazy stretch of rain...like two weeks. So I was extra worried but then it dawned on me that they can handle periods of heavy watering, as long as there is drainage, which I believe these do have. I'll keep an eye on them.
> 
> As for an update on the main area I posted about, things seem to be doing a lot better. I swapped out a few of the lavender plants. Two of the new ones have died but others are looking great. And some of the original plants have turned around and look better. My guess at this point is, the extra fertilizer along with the heat. I probably wasn't a great time to plant new plants. If it was a matter of too much water then these would've died too, after that long stretch of rain. But they didn't. Doesn't seem likely to overwater them that easily. So next step - replace the last two and watch them get established before the heat returns. You mentioned frost which is something I'll have to watch for.
> 
> Happy Holidays to you too!


My near neighbor likes your garden! Just his thing!


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