# How to wire a switch with a pilot light



## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Hello we are trying to replace our current switch that has a pilot light with a new one.

We have 1 -Black, 1 - White, 1- Red, and 1 - Green wire to work with. When we connect the Leviton 5226 switch we connected the black to A1, white to B1, red to common, and green to ground. The pilot light stays on all the time, we tried to switch the white and black and same results. We also swapped the red and the black, and then the red and white, one worked the light and the pilot light stayed on and one gave us nothing at all. 

We also tried a 3 way switch with a pilot light and had all the same results.

I saw it said about needing a neutral however we don't have that and also the old switch seems to not need that. I looked at the old switch to see what brand and model it was and could find no markings that would indicate that. 

Please help!!!


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## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

First....you need to stop blindly switching wires around.

Where are you? If in the US, the white is very likely neutral. Black AND red sounds like you have (and hence, need) a 3 way switch instead of a SP switch.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Thank you for your post. We tried the three way switch and it still didn't work? Any advice. Yes I am in the US


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## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

OK....

Is that the only wires in the box at all??

If not , what else is there? Colors and quantities...note any that are connected together.

Any re-identified wires?....I.E. - a white wire that has black or red tape wrapped around it....or black/red ink (like from a sharpie marker) on it.

Pictures would be even better.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Sorry can't provide a picture. There are only the 4 wires I described originally and none are grouped or have any additional markings.


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## sixspeed (Apr 11, 2012)

Generally: 









Specifically: Leviton's Instructions


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Thanks sixspeed however I have looked at that diagram and don't have the neutral wire and have no idea how to make one we have no extra wires


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## sixspeed (Apr 11, 2012)

What kind of switch are you replacing?

You'll need to identify what each of the conductors in the box is for.

The circuit neutral is required at the switch location for the pilot light of the switch to work.
Because the pilot light is basically another light (load) the switch controls.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

We are replacing an existing pilot light switch...cannot find any identifying marks of model or brand


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## sixspeed (Apr 11, 2012)

I believe your red conductor is the switched load line (that goes to the lamp), black = always hot line, and white = neutral. I'm guessing.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

So red would go to A1 and black to common


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## sixspeed (Apr 11, 2012)

Yes, if my guess is correct...


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Thanks


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

Here is the correct wiring diagram:


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

That's what we did...so are you saying its right and we just need to break the fin to make it work???


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

Do NOT break that tab. The load (light) must be connected to the same side as the pilot light in order for it work properly.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Okay that's the way we wired it just as the diagram you posted showed..what we do not have is an additional white wire...and this is in side a walk in fridge


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Maybe I am just not understanding or getting it...


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

jdlight77 said:


> Okay that's the way we wired it just as the diagram you posted showed..what we do not have is an additional white wire...and this is in side a walk in fridge


Somehow, this just ain't adding up. The original post stated that you DID have a while wire thus:



jdlight77 said:


> Hello we are trying to replace our current switch that has a pilot light with a new one.
> 
> We have 1 -Black, *1 - White,* 1- Red, and 1 - Green wire to work with....


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Yes we have one white wire...


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Here are some pictures of the switch we have and the wires on paper


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

What happens when it is wired like the above drawing?
Do you have a voltage tester? Can you measure the voltage between white/black and white/red and white/ground?


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

What happens as wired is pilot light stays lite all the time...I do have a volt meter just never used one before so not even sure I would understand it


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Are the lights in the walk-in working properly ? On when switch is on, and off when switch is off ? The only problem is the pilot light staying on ?

If you answered yes to all of the above, switch the red and black wires. Black is your line (always hot) and should be on the black screw. Red is your load (switched hot) and should be on the brass screw.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Yes light turns on and off inside and yes the pilot light stays on all the time. I want to say we tried the red and black switched but can try again.


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

Black and red are swapped if the pilot stays lit while the light goes out.


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

Oso954 said:


> ... Black is your line (always hot) and should be on the black screw. Red is your load (switched hot) and should be on the brass screw....


Incorrect.

The screws that are bridged together (black) must be connected to the load (RED) wire.

The lone brass screw must have the feed (black) wire.


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## Gac66610 (Aug 25, 2012)

kbsparky said:


> Incorrect.
> 
> The screws that are bridged together (black) must be connected to the load (RED) wire.
> 
> The lone brass screw must have the feed (black) wire.


Maybe the red is feed, and the black is the switch leg.
Hard to say without testing.


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

You could be correct.... :huh:


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

kbsparky said:


> Incorrect.
> 
> The screws that are bridged together (black) must be connected to the load (RED) wire.
> 
> The lone brass screw must have the feed (black) wire.


From the Leviton instructions:


> Black wall box wire (LINE HOT) to either Black screw (Common).
> • Remaining black wall box wire (Load) to Brass screw (A1)


Edit step 4 of instructions.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

But I don't have 2 black wires...one black one white one red one green


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

No problem. The red is your load.

Where it says "Remaining black wall box wire (Load) to Brass screw (A1)"
we are substituting the words "red wall box wire (load) to Brass screw (A1)"


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Okay I was getting really confused


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

jdlight77 said:


> What happens as wired is pilot light stays lite all the time...I do have a volt meter just never used one before so not even sure I would understand it


Why do people who don't know how a basic voltmeter works do their own electrical work?

And, why would they buy a voltmeter without learning to use it? :huh:


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## Gac66610 (Aug 25, 2012)

Oso954 said:


> No problem. The red is your load.


What makes you think the red is the load?
Where does it say that the black is always feed? NEC, IRC? just because you wire it that way doesn't mean everyone does.
If the switch was wired the way it was drawn, and the pilot light is always on, and the light works with the switch, IMO the red is fed, black is load.

Get the volt meter, read the instructions, prove me wrong.:thumbsup:


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

sirsparksalot said:


> Why do people who don't know how a basic voltmeter works do their own electrical work?
> 
> And, why would they buy a voltmeter without learning to use it? :huh:


 This helps the OP how?


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

sirsparksalot said:


> Why do people who don't know how a basic voltmeter works do their own electrical work?
> 
> And, why would they buy a voltmeter without learning to use it? :huh:


The reason we do our own electrical is because to replace an exsisting item is usually just an easy switch out, plus to just give you an idea we are a Church and had a refrigeration company in to look at the bad switch and they did nothing which cost us a lot of money, so now we are doing it ourselves.

As for why I have a voltmeter and don't know how to use it is someone gave it to me and it is in my tool box gor someone who would know how to use it to use if needed. 

I also agree with the last poster that this comment doesn't help solve my problem.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

Ok, now I'm confused. Why would you bring in a refrigeration contractor to look at a switch? What is the switch for? Are you sure it is line voltage?


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

The switch is for our walk-in fridge...on the old switch the red was connected to the common


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

jdlight77 said:


> The reason we do our own electrical is because to replace an exsisting item is usually just an easy switch out, plus to just give you an idea we are a Church and had a refrigeration company in to look at the bad switch and they did nothing which cost us a lot of money, so now we are doing it ourselves.
> 
> As for why I have a voltmeter and don't know how to use it is someone gave it to me and it is in my tool box gor someone who would know how to use it to use if needed.
> 
> I also agree with the last poster that this comment doesn't help solve my problem.


Just my opinion. Ain't really that easy, is it?

Can understand why you might think the refrigeration co. might help, but it won't. Electricians put the switches and wiring in, usually.


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

sublime2 said:


> This helps the OP how?


It should indicate to him that he needs to bring someone in who knows a bit of what they're doing instead of doing it him/herself and making it worse. And I'll bet that they have their own voltmeter.

Again, my opinion, you're entitled to yours.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

sirsparksalot said:


> It should indicate to him that he needs to bring someone in who knows a bit of what they're doing instead of doing it him/herself and making it worse. And I'll bet that they have their own voltmeter.
> 
> Again, my opinion, you're entitled to yours.


You do realize THIS is a doing it yourself website, right?


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

Yes I realize this project hasn't been an easy swap out like we hoped, but that doesn't mean it couldn't have been. Plus that's why I also was on here looking for some expert advice, not someone really to act like I am stupid for admitting that I don't know how something works. 

I also again have to agree with the last post again that this is a DIY forum so it would stand to reason, the person asking the question admittedly isn't an expert and asking for advice.


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

sublime2 said:


> You do realize THIS is a doing it yourself website, right?


Really??


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

jdlight77 said:


> Yes I realize this project hasn't been an easy swap out like we hoped, but that doesn't mean it couldn't have been. Plus that's why I also was on here looking for some expert advice, not someone really to act like I am stupid for admitting that I don't know how something works.
> 
> I also again have to agree with the last post again that this is a DIY forum so it would stand to reason, the person asking the question admittedly isn't an expert and asking for advice.


Not expecting you to be an expert. But some basic knowledge would be good.

BTW: have you tired any of the previous responses to your question, or shall we continue this circular tangent?


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

Just don't want you to get over your head and hurt, is all. 

It seemed to me that the responses with diagrams were correct.

OK? Let's be friends, now


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## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

sublime2 said:


> You do realize THIS is a doing it yourself website, right?


And you do realize there's a GREAT many times that we advise people that whatever they do, they should NOT do it themselves. Especially in the electrical forum, it's easy to tell when someone's in over their head and it's time to call someone that wont kill themselves fixing the problem.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

I am hoping to try the suggestions this evening, and if they don't work we are decided we won't have the pilot light anymore so we have a switch that will work right to turn the light inside on and not have it work when it wants too...we are looking for a member of the church who knows electrical to see if they can also help but I was trying to see if you guys could help...I also read up on the voltmeter so I can use it and fine the neutral and hot line safely and right.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

When I was reading your earlier posts, you mentioned red went to common on the old switch. You need to define what you mean by common. It could mean one of two things.

1) The neutral
2) The terminal that is connected with the tab.

Normally how this works is black would go to the untabbed switch terminal. The red would go to the tabbed terminal. The white would go to the (normally) silver neutral terminal at the pilot light.

If that doesn't work, swap the red and the black. If that doesn't work, you will either need to figure out that meter, or get someone in there who knows what they are doing.


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## jdlight77 (Jun 21, 2013)

k_buz said:


> When I was reading your earlier posts, you mentioned red went to common on the old switch. You need to define what you mean by common. It could mean one of two things.
> 
> 1) The neutral
> 2) The terminal that is connected with the tab.
> ...


When I say commom mean the tabbed side. I will try it with the black and red switched and also the meter . 

Or a professional or someone who knows more than me


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