# Problems refinishing ceiling



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Stay out of the box stores for this kiind of project. Go to a paint store. 

You probably should have applied an alkyd primer before taping and mudding. There may have been adhesive residue from the popcorn to with the tape and mud does not want to stick.


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## aumanpj (Jul 15, 2009)

The tape seems to have stuck just fine. When I say that I can see it I mean that the there is a depression all along the tape line - as if the mud shrunk.

So what's the solution here? Take down all the tape, apply alkyd primer, retape, remud, prime, and repaint?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

What kind of tape did you use? You did lay it into a nice layer of mud right? And then after it dried, you went back mudded over the top and eventually did your blending skim coat?

Can you post a picture?


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## aumanpj (Jul 15, 2009)

I used the adhesive mesh tape. Applied three full coats of mud and then a little touch up because i'm new to it all. I could take a photo sometime tomorrow if you think that would help matters. Basically, I'm wondering if, over time, the mud would shrink causing the blemishes I now see. These were definitely not like this when I finished. 


If this is due to shrinking how do I avoid that when fixing it? Does "45" help?


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

The mud does not shrink after drying.It sounds as if you just painted withiut priming, right? You just need to apple more mud to fill in and make smooth, prime and paint.Forget the 45, you do not need it. Forget the big box stores, you do NOT need their advise.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

what looks good prepaint can sure not after paint. you may have pulled to much mud when toweling, may over sand a bit. How do the butt joints look if any. Not using good primer, paint and using any kind of sheen will make slight flaws stand out


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The paint could be the problem as tpolk mentioned. A gloss type paint will highlight any imperfections when "critical" (intense/direct) light hits the mud joints. What type of roller did you use? A very short nap roller doesn't leave much "texture" as it applies the paint (which helps hide the joints) and spraying without "back-rolling" leaves no texture at all. There IS such a thing as "delayed shrinkage". It is only common when mud is applied in cold/damp situations (new construction) where proper heat is not available. Even using "torpedo" heaters doesn't do a good job of drying the mud. The mud dries from the surface down. The first coat LOOKS dry, so the next coats are applied. The walls get painted, further hindering complete drying. Days or even weeks later, often after the actual HVAC system is operational, things dry out and the joints (along with trim, caulk, etc.) finish shrinking. I'm guessing this was not the case for your job, so I'd lean toward the paint/lighting possibility. Pull a tight skim coat on the offending areas. Re-prime the entire surface and paint with a flat latex using a 3/8" or even 1/2" nap roller.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

And as far as using the setting type compound (45), it should have been used for at least the first coat over mesh tape to prevent cracking if there's any movement in the framing lumber. A moot point now, so just use ready-mix...


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