# Outdoor faucet won't turn off.



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Shut the water off and unscrew the hose bib. Buy a replacement ($5-6) and replace it.


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

rjniles said:


> Shut the water off and unscrew the hose bib. Buy a replacement ($5-6) and replace it.


Thanks rjniles. I was able to drop by lowes and buy a replacement hose bibb. Will let you know how it goes tomorrow.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Turn off water.

Relieve Pressure.

Unthread bonnet nut (just below the handle)

Unscrew the handle assembly and pull it out.

Check the washer at the bottom, probably ripped, cracked or just plain worn out.

Remove stainless screw holding washer to the handle assembly.

Remove bibb washer.

Take it to the store, match it with the proper size ($.35)

Return home, and reverse steps

Save 4 bucks.


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

Pick up some pipe dope and/or teflon tape to put on the new bid's threads before you install it to reduce leakage.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

The pressure regulator and shutoff ball valve look pretty old. Maybe check your water pressure at the leaking hose bib. If more than 60 lbs, try adjusting the pressure regulator. If it can't be adjusted, maybe consider replacing all three items.

HRG


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Thanks for all the help guys. Giving you guys an update now.

I bought the replacement hose bibb and thread tape. I turned off the red valve that you see in the first picture and took off the old hose bibb and replaced it with the new hose bibb. I 'think' it solved the leak. It stopped the majority of the leaking water, if not all. 

One thing I noticed when I took the hose bibb off, even with the red valve shut off, some water was still flowing out. Is this normal? Or does that mean my problem goes a little bit further than just the hose bibb.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ANGRYKOREAN said:


> One thing I noticed when I took the hose bibb off, even with the red valve shut off, some water was still flowing out. Is this normal? Or does that mean my problem goes a little bit further than just the hose bibb.


Probably water in the house plumbing draining out. Turn the red valve off, open the hose bib. Then open the highest hot and cold faucets in the house to let the house plumbing drain out. The water should eventually stop leaking out of the new hose bib. If not, then the red valve (ball valve) is leaking and should be replaced.

HRG


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Homerepairguy said:


> Probably water in the house plumbing draining out. Turn the red valve off, open the hose bib. Then open the highest hot and cold faucets in the house to let the house plumbing drain out. The water should eventually stop leaking out of the new hose bib. If not, then the red valve (ball valve) is leaking and should be replaced.
> 
> HRG


Thanks for your guidance. I now know the proper names for some of the parts . 

I just wanted to further clarify what I meant about the water still coming out. Water does not leak out with the new hose bibb attached. I was talking about water still coming out while the hose bibb was not attached. Should I still run the hot and cold faucets to test?


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ANGRYKOREAN said:


> Thanks for your guidance. I now know the proper names for some of the parts .
> 
> I just wanted to further clarify what I meant about the water still coming out. Water does not leak out with the new hose bibb attached. I was talking about water still coming out while the hose bibb was not attached. Should I still run the hot and cold faucets to test?


Only if you want to test the main shut off valve with the red handle for shutting the water off completely. If yes, then open the new hose bib and then do the procedure in my previous post.

A main shut off valve with a drip leak is tolerable when working on threaded plumbing in the future. A pain in the butt but tolerable. It is not tolerable if you have to do any soldering of copper pipes in the future. It's impossible to solder copper pipes with water leaking out of them unless special gizmos are used to stop the water leak temporarily during the soldering process.

I really would get a water pressure gauge and check the water pressure in your home. That pressure regulator looks mighty old.

HRG


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Homerepairguy said:


> Only if you want to test the main shut off valve with the red handle for shutting the water off completely. If yes, then open the new hose bib and then do the procedure in my previous post.
> 
> A main shut off valve with a drip leak is tolerable when working on threaded plumbing in the future. A pain in the butt but tolerable. It is not tolerable if you have to do any soldering of copper pipes in the future. It's impossible to solder copper pipes with water leaking out of them unless special gizmos are used to stop the water leak temporarily during the soldering process.
> 
> ...


That pressure regulator has most likely been there since the 70s. 

While I have your knowledge, does that pressure regulator affect the inside of my house? I assumed the components that I showed only affected the outdoor plumbing. 

I have noticed that whenever I turn on a sink, water spits out irregularly and then resumes normally after a second or two. Could that pressure regulator be the cause?


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ANGRYKOREAN said:


> That pressure regulator has most likely been there since the 70s.
> 
> While I have your knowledge, does that pressure regulator affect the inside of my house? I assumed the components that I showed only affected the outdoor plumbing.
> 
> I have noticed that whenever I turn on a sink, water spits out irregularly and then resumes normally after a second or two. Could that pressure regulator be the cause?


If from the 70's, it probably isn't regulating. Only way to tell is to get a water pressure gauge and connect it to the hose bib.

That PR will affect every faucet that goes off, when you turn the water shutoff valve in your photos to the off position. Too high pressure causes premature leaking in faucets, greater chance for washing machine water hoses to leak, and overall more maintenance for everything in the plumbing.

Not sure if it could be the cause of your spitting problem though.

HRG


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Homerepairguy said:


> If from the 70's, it probably isn't regulating. Only way to tell is to get a water pressure gauge and connect it to the hose bib.
> 
> That PR will affect every faucet that goes off, when you turn the water shutoff valve in your photos to the off position. Too high pressure causes premature leaking in faucets, greater chance for washing machine water hoses to leak, and overall more maintenance for everything in the plumbing.
> 
> ...


I'm taking your advice and buying a pressure gauge. Is there a certain kind I should buy? Or just any cheap gauge will do? Also, I know you said it already- to attach the gauge to the hose bibb, but I just wanted to confirm if I attach it to the hose bibb or to the pipe (making sure I don't buy the wrong threaded gauge).


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

One with hose threads is fine.

Edit : It's not a bad idea to check your pressure but i've seen regulators way worse off looking than that one, that still function 100%.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ANGRYKOREAN said:


> I'm taking your advice and buying a pressure gauge. Is there a certain kind I should buy? Or just any cheap gauge will do? Also, I know you said it already- to attach the gauge to the hose bibb, but I just wanted to confirm if I attach it to the hose bibb or to the pipe (making sure I don't buy the wrong threaded gauge).


Buy a pressure gauge that connects to a hose bib like any standard garden hose does. You can use it on outside hose bibs or on a laundry room faucet.

Recommend getting one that has two needle indicators. Black needle will indicate current pressure. Red needle will record highest pressure and retain that reading even if the pressure drops. Reason for the red needle is to see what the highest pressure is when your water heater heats the water and nobody uses any water. Like overnight for instance. This can tell you if you need an expansion tank for your water heater. But one with just the black, current reading is OK. 

Get one that has a max reading of about 150 - 160 psi. Don't get one that has a max reading of 300 psi as the lower readings will be less accurate. High city water pressures can be around 130 psi or so and you want to set your pressure regulator for about 60 psi to your home.

Here's an example of a pressure gauge with the red needle, max pressure capability. It's the Lazy Hand, 0-160 psi model.
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/testing.html

And here's one without the red needle, max pressure capability:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938631&pf_rd_i=507846

The first one with a max readout of 160 psi is more desirable than the second one with a max readout of 200 psi but the second one will be fine.

HRG


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Thanks again guys.

I went ahead and called my local lowes/hd, both do not carry a two needle pressure gauge. I'd get the two needle one from that other site you linked but their shipping rate is 9$. I guess I'll just purchase the single needle that you linked from Amazon. I can get it for $7.26, free 2 day shipping. 

I'll give you an update after I test pressure sometime next week.

EDIT: Scratch that, I'm just going to pay the extra $9 to do test it right.


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

I got this Watts gauge at either HD or Lowes:
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=647

They have em at my local HD:
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...Flow=3&catalogId=10053&langId=-1&ddkey=Search

But it didn't look like that, it looks like this:
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=647


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Giving you guys an update. 

HRG - water pressure gauge read 90 lbs. Shall I proceed to replacing the pressure regulator and ball valve?


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ANGRYKOREAN said:


> Giving you guys an update.
> 
> HRG - water pressure gauge read 90 lbs. Shall I proceed to replacing the pressure regulator and ball valve?


You could try adjusting your existing PR but considering that it's about 35+ years old, I would definitely just replace it without even trying to adjust it. I bought a Watts brand PR for our home. It looks like the one that you currently have (except mine has a union coupling on its input side) so yours might be a Watts PR. The new PR should be adjusted for 50-60 psi output.

If you replace the PR, I would also replace the ball valve since they are relatively inexpensive and I guarantee that you will feel much better after the job is done. There are two types of ball valves. One type is soldered in on both sides, the other type is threaded on both sides. I personally buy the threaded type since I don't want to overheat the ball valve during the soldering process. In the threaded type, the male fittings are soldered on to the copper pipes first and then the ball valve is screwed on. --- But in your case, you may have to install a soldered in type of ball valve due to minimal space from the ground to the horizontal pipe.

I would remove the white pressure relief valve that is installed right next to the wall. Your water heater should have a pressure relief valve on it so that one in your photo is not really needed. By removing that pressure relief valve, you can install a union coupler in its place. Then make sure that the pressure regulator you buy has a union coupling on its input side (the side connected to the ball valve). This will allow you to remove the pressure regulator and hose bib assembly in case you ever have to replace the PR in the future. Otherwise you will have to have enough clearance to the wall to spin the PR to remove it in the future.

Be sure to measure the diameter of your existing pipes before you go shopping so you can buy the correct size PR, ball valve, copper pipe, fittings, etc. Don't try to reuse your old pipes or fittings. It's just too much work with more chances of leaking. Don't forget to measure the distance from the ground to the horizontal pipe so you can buy a PR and ball valve that can fit in that limited space.

HRG


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Don't like the Watts 25-AUB P.R.V.

We have had the top of the housing rot away in 1 year. It's just a crappy pot metal coated with brass colored paint.

:no::no::no::no:


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Homerepairguy said:


> I would remove the white pressure relief valve that is installed right next to the wall. Your water heater should have a pressure relief valve on it so that one in your photo is not really needed. By removing that pressure relief valve, you can install a union coupler in its place. ...snip


Angry,

In another thread, the poster said that his plumber told him that it's code in his area to install a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the pressure relief valve on top on the water heater. If your area has the same code, then don't remove the pressure relief valve shown in your photo, or do replace it with a new one.

It's not code in my area to have a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the one on top of the water heater.

HRG


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## ANGRYKOREAN (Jun 6, 2011)

Homerepairguy said:


> Angry,
> 
> In another thread, the poster said that his plumber told him that it's code in his area to install a pressure relief valve after the pressure regulator in addition to the pressure relief valve on top on the water heater. If your area has the same code, then don't remove the pressure relief valve shown in your photo, or do replace it with a new one.
> 
> ...


HRG, you are correct about local code. 

Sorry for my absence, I have just gotten around to planning this project. So per your post, I have decided to replace the PRV, ball valve and piping. I had some questions though. Bare in mind, I have no plumbing experience so if this is a job for a professional please stop me.

-What kind of piping do I have right now? Brass or copper? If I replace with copper piping and it's currently brass piping will that matter?
-If copper piping, what type of tubing am I looking to get? Hard type L?
-Besides the piping, PR and ball valve, what are the names of the other parts I'll need? I.e. fittings. I don't know the terminology or names of these parts 
-What tools would I need going into the project? Blow torch? Solder? Pipe cutter? Teflon tape?
-How exactly do I uninstall the current piping? 

Thanks in advance.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Your piping is copper, but your pressure regulator and pressure relief valve are threaded on, and the pressure regulator has a union. The only problem will be if your pressure regulator is shorter or longer than the original one, and the ball valve looks like it is sweated on.

Unthread the pressure relief valve from the system. Thread the new one in.

Take the union on the pressure regulator completely apart.

Unthread the pressure regulator and it's union end from the system. Take a measurement of both pressure regulators if they are the same, put it back the same way it came off using teflon tape of course. . . .

If you still want to change that ball valve out, you'll have to get all the water out of the line, and heat it and pull on it with a pair of pliers until it comes off. If you've never soldered before, it might be tricky to get the new one back on.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ANGRYKOREAN said:


> HRG, you are correct about local code.
> 
> Sorry for my absence, I have just gotten around to planning this project. So per your post, I have decided to replace the PRV, ball valve and piping. I had some questions though. Bare in mind, I have no plumbing experience so if this is a job for a professional please stop me.
> 
> ...


Alan pretty much hit all of the high points. Here are more things to consider:

1. If you turn the ball valve off and open the hose bib faucet and the highest faucet in your home, does all dripping stop after you wait about 5 minutes? If yes, the ball valve is stopping all water flow. You could leave it in. (Though if I were doing the job I would replace it since it's already 35+ years old and I wouldn't want to replace it later.)

2. Will there be enough room to unscrew the pressure regulator by spinning it in place? The bottom input side has a union coupling (allows removal without spinning the PR) but the top side requires that the PR be rotated to unscrew it off. It's hard to tell from your photos if there is enough clearance to the wall to spin the PR. --- Also, even if there is enough room to spin the PR, since there isn't any play in the piping and there isn't a second union coupling where the pressure relief valve is, I don't see how you will be able to remove the PR. As you unscrew the PR, it will want to move toward the ball valve but that side is unmovable as is the piping above the PR.

3. If you want to replace the ball valve you will have to turn the water from the city off. Do you know where the valve is where the water enters your property? If yes, turn that valve off and open the hose bib faucet in your photos and the highest faucet in your home (leave the ball valve open). Does all dripping stop after you wait about 5 minutes? --- If no, then you won't be able to solder a new ball valve in without special techniques. It's not possible to solder a ball valve in with water leaking out of the pipe. In this case with no plumbing experience, it will be better to hire a plumber.

HRG


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