# Adding large windows and a door to existing wall



## cpused (Feb 22, 2008)

I am adding two large widows that start about a foot off the ground and then go to the heighth of the door that is going in next to them. This wall is an 11 foot high wall. Do I just cut out where the windows and door will be (all in one big block together accept for the studs I add)? This way I won't have to mess with any drywall/texture and paint..the existing will stay the way it is. I'm wondering if I just cut out the door and window openings will i/should i put some king studs that run plate to plate in there and slide them in above the whole that has been cut out between the drywall on either side. OR do I just rip all the drywall off on once side (but window and door openings on the other side also) since it measures only 5 feet longer then the cut outs will be. Then I can see everything and get my new studs in there easier. OR can I do something else in there somehow.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

You need to install structural headers or one large structural header arrangement. 
Do not cut out anything, until you get this all figured out, sized/calculated, etc.
The process of adding a large header or a series of headers, will most definitely require that you open up the walls above the future door and window heights, in order to install that header properly.

By the sounds of this, you better get some onsite experienced help with your project.


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## oldfrt (Oct 18, 2007)

Another consideration here will be the type of glass in the window.
Codes require that tempered glass be used in windows(at least the bottom sash of a double hung)within a certain distance above the finished floor height.
Check with your local building dept.


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## cpused (Feb 22, 2008)

*Sounds good...but...*

I think I'm going to overdue it if possible for support but do I need to install structural headers if ther wall isn't load bearing?


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## cpused (Feb 22, 2008)

*Response and other thoughts*

also...

Tempered Glass is in the plan.

I guess my question was besides headers was it feels like since what I'm taking out of the wall is like 50% of the entire space it feels like I should take the drywall completely off on one side of the wall so we are totally free to put everything in we need. Then when we put new drywall back on we will have less seems and spots where it went from existing finished walls into new spots. The other side of the wall can probably just be cut out just for the door and window openings and then be trimmed out when it's done.

Sound good?

Thanks


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

cpused said:


> I guess my question was besides headers was it feels like since what I'm taking out of the wall is like 50% of the entire space it feels like I should take the drywall completely off on one side of the wall so we are totally free to put everything in we need. Then when we put new drywall back on we will have less seems and spots where it went from existing finished walls into new spots.


You are better off removing the sheetrock in straight, clean, square cuts. Sheetrock and drywall is easy and inexpensive to repair and replace. The main issue here is making sure that you can properly and easily access the areas needed to install the structural framing required for such an installation project.



cpused said:


> The other side of the wall can probably just be cut out just for the door and window openings and then be trimmed out when it's done.
> Sound good?


No, it can't. No matter how much you keep writing that, and wishing for it to be that way, this will not be the case. 

Your siding is attached to the exterior sheathing, the exterior sheathing is attached to the framing. The framing is being removed, in some areas, and new framing is being installed, including structural headers. Pretty much, all the sheathing around these areas will be damaged and going out with the wall materials being removed. 

In addition, you will be installing new construction type windows and standard exterior door. These will come with nailing flanges that will need to be installed onto the sheathing and also properly sealed with water & ice membrane flashings.

On the exterior, you will be installing new sheathing, new house wrap, new siding, and new trimwork, and possibly more, if this is a new entrance location.


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## cpused (Feb 22, 2008)

*Interior Walls*

Obviously you know tons more then I do and thank you for the input. It seems to me that you are talking about exterior walls though and I'm sorry if I didn't point that out well. This is an interior improvement for a partition wall for an office. I am copying the other office and it has tempered glass framed inside of some trim then held in by several different layers of decorative trim. Sheathing and other things are not part of this project. It's really not that big of a deal to redo the sheetrock I guess but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing more work then needed to be done. Thanks again for responding. I'm sorry if it seems like I'm not quite getting what you are saying.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Oh, OK, a little detail that was left out. This kind of work on an interior partition wall, very much so, lessons the amount of work required for your project.

If it is a non-load bearing wall, then that would be even better: no headers required.

If it is loadbearing, then you have to temporarily add joist/ceiling supports, during the process of doing the structural re-framing.


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