# Oil polyurethane over latex paint



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If it's painted then why do you need to add a sealer?


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## fishacura (Mar 28, 2010)

The finish is very flat and I'd like to better protect it and add some shine/smoothness.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Then just lightly sand and go over it with enamel gloss or semi gloss paint.

If you use poly it will yellow and also wear off where the handles are.


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## fishacura (Mar 28, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Then just lightly sand and go over it with enamel gloss or semi gloss paint.
> 
> If you use poly it will yellow and also wear off where the handles are.


 
Great feedback and thank you for your assistance. Is there such a thing as "clear semi gloss paint"? I didn't want to change the color....or for that matter a latex based poly???


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## ric knows paint (Oct 26, 2011)

fishacura said:


> Great feedback and thank you for your assistance. Is there such a thing as "clear semi gloss paint"? I didn't want to change the color....or for that matter a latex based poly???


There is absolutely nothing wrong with applying one or several coats of an oil poly over a flat latex paint. There will be no issues of incompatibility - they will work fine with each other. You are right that the oil poly will yellow some, over time, but over black it really won't matter or be that noticeable. If you are concerned about yellowing, there are latex (acrylic) polys in a semi-gloss finish that are pretty durable - and would work fine.

As long as the black paint is clean, and in good sound condition, applying a coat of oil poly is a great way to provide further protection to your lockers. The poly will NOT wear off any faster around the handles than would an "enamel" or "semi-gloss" paint - matter-o-fact, the oil poly will provide greater protection than either around the handles, knobs, whatever.

The biggest concern I'd have with the oil poly is applying it in a basement, in a laundry room - but that'd only be if your basement is not dry, or if you already have a mildew problem due to high humidity - if so, mildew can grow on an oil (alkyd) finish easier than on a latex (acrylic) finish. If that's not an issue, stay with what you've got, it'll be a well protected project.


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## fishacura (Mar 28, 2010)

My point exactly (per my original post). Completely different response lol! These were my thoughts but Joe seems to really disagree (and has thousands more posts...)

In honor of election season, let the debates begin

BTW, the product is MINWAX quick drying poly....satin finish


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

If you need to listen to Joe or Ric- take ric every time...


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## fishacura (Mar 28, 2010)

Well I certainly didn't mean to start a fight!!!


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

No fight. Fact.


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## fishacura (Mar 28, 2010)

Well Ric seems more in line with what I have read (meaning it's probably not the BEST alternative, but there's really not much harm in doing it as long as you know about the yellowing, particularly if it's a light shade of paint AND is sun exposed). But I really can't find anything to warrant not doing it in my circumstances so I'll go for it. THANKS....saved me some $$ and some time...


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## poppameth (Oct 2, 2008)

Why not just put water based urethane over it instead of oil urethane? Minwax Polycrylic is in just about every store you could imagine. It won't yellow either.


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## fishacura (Mar 28, 2010)

poppameth said:


> Why not just put water based urethane over it instead of oil urethane? Minwax Polycrylic is in just about every store you could imagine. It won't yellow either.


1. Was at Depot and they only had it in gallons (another brand too...not the brand I want)

2. Already have oil based...why spend the $$$

3. Less coats required than latex based

That's it in a nutshell


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