# LVL Beam installation



## aplombDIY (Jan 25, 2018)

I am removing a load bearing wall between our living room and kitchen and installing a drop beam. This is in the topmost floor. Foundation is on poured concrete (shown in attached image floorplan.jpg)

local lumberyard used software to calculate the spec of the LVL beam. It's a two 14" LVL beam (each with thickness 1.75 inch) with length 20ft. 

I am using three 2x4 jack studs on each end. On end "B", the jack studs are directly on basement concrete sidewall. So continuous load path is made from the bottom of jack studs to concrete sidewall using 3 2x10 placed between floor and concrete wall. (shown in attached image JackstudToConcreteSidewall.jpg)

On End "A", the bottom of jack studs is between two floor joists and 6" away from center support beam for first floor. To make a continuous load path from bottom of jack studs at "A" to the concrete floor in basement, I was thinking about using three 2x4 and fasten it to concrete floor using metal bracket. But the town inspector recommended lally column with proper footing instead of 2x4s to make a continuous load path from bottom of jack studs at "A" to the concrete floor in basement. My question: is the new lally column really necessary? If lally column is used, how do I fasten it to the bottom of floor (right below the jack studs at "A")? I was thinking about the approach shown in LallyColumnTop.jpg. I look forward to getting your suggestion. Thanks.
(my drawing shows two 2x4 at point "A". it should be three 2x4s)


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You will have to cut the floor out and put a footing in, who ever helped figure the size of the beam should be able to help with footing size.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

As Neal mentioned, no load can bear directly on the concrete floor as it is only 4-6" thick and will crack under load. Cutting or coring the concrete and installing a grout footer will be required to handle the vertical load. I would not try to do it without having someone determine the depth and width of the footer needed. Yes, a lally column will be much easier to install and will give you adjustablity.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Neal & Chandler are 100% correct. Footings are needed.


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## aplombDIY (Jan 25, 2018)

Thanks everyone for confirming that I need lally column with proper footing. Any comment on how to attach the top of the lally column to the bottom of the post? Does the approach that I have shown on the sketch above look good?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

aplombDIY said:


> Thanks everyone for confirming that I need lally column with proper footing. Any comment on how to attach the top of the lally column to the bottom of the post? Does the approach that I have shown on the sketch above look good?


In this picture your beam is not under where the 2 joists meet.
The removed wall should have been right above the beam below and that is where the beam should go . then you post would be right above the beam below and would require solid blocking below the sub floor to the lower beam.
Then you decide which is best. install new footing and post below. Or as the beam below has a big enough footing perhaps that beam could be added to. Or make the upper beam long enough to reach the footing below.


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## aplombDIY (Jan 25, 2018)

"The removed wall should have been right above the beam below and that is where the beam should go" - unfortunately that is not the case here. The wall is not right above the beam below. The wall is 6" away from the beam below (parallel to the beam). That is the original construction.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

aplombDIY said:


> "The removed wall should have been right above the beam below and that is where the beam should go" - unfortunately that is not the case here. The wall is not right above the beam below. The wall is 6" away from the beam below (parallel to the beam). That is the original construction.


 Have you opened the ceiling to see if the joists would be long enough to move your beam back over above that other beam.
If you match the length of the lower beam you get to use the same footer.


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## aplombDIY (Jan 25, 2018)

Yes, I checked that joists will overlap on the new LVL beam (and extend by at least 1 ft on each side) if I move the LVL beam to be directly on the first floor beam. But in that case the passage (already a narrow one) to bedroom will be narrower. To avoid narrower passage, I thought about making the beam span shorter (19ft instead of 20ft and make a 6" wall at the end as shown in the attached image movingLVL.jpg . That would not look so good, but that design is acceptable to me. Please let me know if you have any suggestion. Thanks.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

aplombDIY said:


> Yes, I checked that joists will overlap on the new LVL beam (and extend by at least 1 ft on each side) if I move the LVL beam to be directly on the first floor beam. But in that case the passage (already a narrow one) to bedroom will be narrower. To avoid narrower passage, I thought about making the beam span shorter (19ft instead of 20ft and make a 6" wall at the end as shown in the attached image movingLVL.jpg . That would not look so good, but that design is acceptable to me. Please let me know if you have any suggestion. Thanks.


 If the joists above over lap the wall by 1 ft you can put the new beam directly over the lower beam at the same length


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