# Time between coats of paint/primer



## Guest (Sep 20, 2007)

Surprisingly enough the HD guy gave you good advice. Deep colors with lots of pigment, especially reds, do benefit from longer dry time. The amount of pigment slows down the cure time of the paint. Allowing 24 hours insures that you don't reactivate the paint with a fresh coat and allows for better coverage. Edit: Matte should be fine as the base coat.


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

Coolness! So to make sure I have this 100% straight, 

1) primed yesterday with gray, oil based, exterior SW primer
2) will topcoat today with LOWE's (olympic brand) red matte latex exterior
3) tomorrow will apply my SW, red, satin, latex exterior
4) day after tomorrow, apply 3rd coat of SW red, satin, latex


<< On second thought, I think I'll topcoat today with the satin SW paint, and just do 1 more coat tomorrow, no matte base coat. Primer usually spreads less than paint right? I got 2 containers of the same size yesterday (primer and paint) at SW, and priming didn't even use more than 40% of that container, so my satin red should make 2 coats no problem>>


(and damn, that SW primer takes its time drying huh! Applied last night ~6-7:30ish, kept with heavy fans til around 9, and it's still tacky this morning! I can actually put fingerprints in the thick spots (not on the door, the drip on the can))


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

(sorry but I've got another q!!! When I was priming yesterday, I must not've sanded properly in 1 spot because I pulled a grain up, and now there's a small dent. Is this repairable or just let it be? When prepping the door I sanded it, used wood putty for any defects, and taped it (since the 4 thin sides are all white - interior swinging door with red exterior face). Can I use the wood putty on that dent now that it's got a primer coat? )


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2007)

A good exterior filler should work fine to fill it in even over primer. I didn't realize you had Olympic in the Matte finish. You are just as well not using that. It'll probably hurt more than it helps.


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

Coolness, so just do 2 coats with the SW satin then. I'm pretty sure I have enough for 2 solid coats, it should spread better than the primer and I didn't do half of that when I primed.

You seemed to be disliking of olympic - that's what I've been using on a lot, it is the premium version, like $80 for a 5 gal. Am I gonna be seeing a lot of cracking/peeling in a short period of time?


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## Hamilton (Nov 1, 2006)

joeyboy said:


> ...like $80 for a 5 gal.


 Whoa...

A 5'er of Dunn-Edwards premium grade exterior latex costs me near $130 now, and I get major discount!


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

I paid $40/5gal for speedwall white latex interior :thumbsup: 


Been holding up well so far, unfortunately 4 months really isn't enough of a time to test I guess!!!


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## Guest (Sep 21, 2007)

I haven't used Olympic myself. I've had several Lowes customers in my store over the past couple of months looking for a better alternative. I've mainly been hearing of application issues. I have no real feedback on longevity at this point.


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

It was kinda runny during application, but it was probably the 2nd or 3rd time I'd painted in my life, so I'm really in no position to compare/complain lol!!! <<wait no, that's the speed wall>>


The olympic has gone awesome, I'm just freaked out now that it's all gonna peel!!! Well, what's done is done, at least I prepped (sanded/primed) totally proper for the job, if the paint fails it fails!!!




(btw, what do you guys pay for a 5gal of what you'd consider high end? Hamilton, was that one you mentioned your high end type product? Just curious!)


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## sirwired (Jun 22, 2007)

joeyboy said:


> Coolness, so just do 2 coats with the SW satin then. I'm pretty sure I have enough for 2 solid coats, it should spread better than the primer and I didn't do half of that when I primed.
> 
> You seemed to be disliking of olympic - that's what I've been using on a lot, it is the premium version, like $80 for a 5 gal. Am I gonna be seeing a lot of cracking/peeling in a short period of time?


$80 for a fiver really isn't very expensive as far as paint goes. The best Olympic you can buy at Lowe's is not Olympic's best paint, just as the best Glidden at HD is not the best paint Glidden makes.

You really need just stick with quality SW paint. (Which SW paint are you using? I wouldn't use anything lower down in grade than SuperPaint, and Duration has a LOT of fans here, although it is pricey.)

SirWired


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## sirwired (Jun 22, 2007)

joeyboy said:


> I paid $40/5gal for speedwall white latex interior :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> Been holding up well so far, unfortunately 4 months really isn't enough of a time to test I guess!!!


$8/gallon paint is really meant only for same-color repaints of things like high-turnover rental property or garages.

Next time you paint, you will find your painting could be a lot easier and looks much better with higher-quality paint. (Fewer spatters, fewer drips, better sheen uniformity, better scrubability, better smoothness, etc.)

SirWired


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## Hamilton (Nov 1, 2006)

joeyboy said:


> Hamilton, was that one you mentioned your high end type product? Just curious!)


Yes, and from a professional view the extra dollars are cheap insurance. Nothing worse than a home owner complaining about faded dull paint three years down the road. Most paint damage out here comes from the sun's intense UV.



joeyboy said:


> ...but it was probably the 2nd or 3rd time I'd painted in my life, so I'm really in no position to compare/complain lol!!!


Dude, I gotta apologize to you, I thought you were in construction....got you mixed up with someone else, I guess. That's why my advise in the beginning was blunt...sorry about that.


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

hahaha no problem! I never really swung a hammer before I got this house lol! The extent of what I've done before getting this place is basically mowing my dad's lawn, and doing crappy paint jobs for him at his house :laughing:


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

sirwired said:


> You really need just stick with quality SW paint. (Which SW paint are you using? I wouldn't use anything lower down in grade than SuperPaint, and Duration has a LOT of fans here, although it is pricey.)
> 
> SirWired


I'm using superpaint (and s100 or h100... something"100" oil based exterior primer by SW too).

Let me ask you guys something, I got a quart of that paint in satin red for doing just the exterior side (all 5 other sides are white). How many coats should that quart do on just 1 side of a 36" X 79" door, roughly? 

(I think I've needed to do 3 coats of paint on a lot of things becuase I'm going way too thin. I only used ~30% *max* of that quart, I feel I can't control my brush strokes as smooth if I use any thicker! BTW there's a real good chance I'm throwing down for a purdy brush today!!

I know it wasn't in this thread, but I was told to get a purdy for ~$20. I didn't. I decided to get a better one though, for $7. If it were $20, I would've cared for it differently, but it wasn't. So, I've gone through 2 of those, and if I get another today, i'm now $20 in the hole for brushes, and holding a $7 brush, where if I got the purdy off the bat, I'd be $20 in the hole and still have a nice purdy - definitely would've been babying it!!)


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

haha I got another question! Do you guys sand between coats? Even though it went on thin yesterday (I can still see a slight hint of primer in some spots), I still have heavy brush marks, so I'm prolly gonna hit it with some sandpaper before the next app today.. Is this brush related or normal?


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## Guest (Sep 22, 2007)

You should get about 4 coats out of the can. I don't usually sand latex between coats unless there is a real need for it. It sounds like your brush may be causing the brush marks. People often underestimate the importance of the brush. The good brushes have feathered and beveled tip to give a soft finish stroke and avoid so many brush marks. If the bristle is too stiff and not tipped well you get obvious marks. Are you brushing the whole door? If so I'd recommend a mini roller like Wooster's Jumbo Koter with a 1/4" Mohair cover. Roll it on quickly and then brush back over it with a loaded brush to smooth it out. You'll get better coverage and a smoother finish.


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

poppameth said:


> You should get about 4 coats out of the can. I don't usually sand latex between coats unless there is a real need for it. It sounds like your brush may be causing the brush marks. People often underestimate the importance of the brush. The good brushes have feathered and beveled tip to give a soft finish stroke and avoid so many brush marks. If the bristle is too stiff and not tipped well you get obvious marks. Are you brushing the whole door? If so I'd recommend a mini roller like Wooster's Jumbo Koter with a 1/4" Mohair cover. Roll it on quickly and then brush back over it with a loaded brush to smooth it out. You'll get better coverage and a smoother finish.


great thanks for the tips!!! I already have some purdy covers but they're standard size


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## Guest (Sep 23, 2007)

If it's a flat door not a panel and normal roller will probably do as well as a mini would. You just end up wasting more paint to load up a full size cover for such a small job.


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## joeyboy (Apr 10, 2007)

it's a panel, and I'm totally loving painting it since I got a new purdy! :thumbsup:


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