# Tongue and Groove Pine Ceiling- Staggering the Pattern.



## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

I have a room that measures aproximately 12 x 16. It has a vaulted ceiling on to which my wife and I plan on installing tongue and groove pine.

I know I will need to stagger the pattern of boards as I install them, but I'm a little unclear as to how the "pros" do it. Do I simply do a pattern of 8'-8', 4-8-4; or will that look funny? Suggestions?


----------



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Can't you get longer boards? 12' or 16'.


----------



## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

I guess I could, but transporting them may be a problem. I'm also doing it by myself.


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Do you plan to leave the butt joints exposed? What is your joist spacing? Can you get 10' boards?


----------



## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Do you plan to leave the butt joints exposed? What is your joist spacing? Can you get 10' boards?



The joist spacing is 16" OC. Yes, I was thinking about leaving the butt joints exposed. However, I checked yesterday and I can get the boards I need in 16' foot lengths AND delivered.


----------



## katlaw (Jun 14, 2008)

Randell Tarin said:


> The joist spacing is 16" OC. Yes, I was thinking about leaving the butt joints exposed. However, I checked yesterday and I can get the boards I need in 16' foot lengths AND delivered.


 
I am looking for 16' T&G for my ceiling as well. Where did you find it? How did your project turn out?


----------



## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

I'm getting ready to do it this week. 

What I plan to do is get 16' t&g and sand and finish it before it goes up. I'm going to rent scaffolding to get me and a helper up high enough without having to go up and down a ladder (old knees, ya know).

I do have a silly question though: does one start at the bottom and work up or at the top and work down?


----------



## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Rip the groove off of one board and start at the bottom, tounge side up. Plan your layout so you do not have a sliver at the top. Make sure your pine is properly acclimated to the room. Seal all surfaces and cut ends, otherwise it will cup.


----------



## comp1911 (Jul 20, 2007)

We used 8 footers. We used 4 footer to stager the joints every course on 24" OC scissor trusses. The butts are exposed. We just routered the ends with a 45 degree bit. We started at the bottom and worked up. We ripped the first board at an angle to butt up against the wall. We also pre finished the boards prior to install. They has also bee on site for a few months prior to install. Used 16 ag 2" nails in a Paslode angled gun.


----------



## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

Seal ALL surfaces? Even the ones not showing?


----------



## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

comp1911 said:


> The butts are exposed.


I hate it when that happens.


----------



## katlaw (Jun 14, 2008)

Randell Tarin said:


> I'm getting ready to do it this week.
> 
> What I plan to do is get 16' t&g and sand and finish it before it goes up. I'm going to rent scaffolding to get me and a helper up high enough without having to go up and down a ladder (old knees, ya know).
> 
> I do have a silly question though: does one start at the bottom and work up or at the top and work down?


I haven't started my project yet, either. I am still trying to find 16' t&g; I am hoping some of the local lumberyards will have it b/c HD & Lowe's only carry up to 12' lengths. I did find some good articles on how to install. The one on the HGTV site even has pics.


----------



## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

Comp1911 I like the look of your ceiling but just how did you account for the lights.Did you put the T&G up first and then cut it out or cut it and then install it around the lights


----------



## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Randell Tarin said:


> Seal ALL surfaces? Even the ones not showing?


Yes, all surfaces. The unsealed surfaces will absorb moisture from the humidity in the room and the boards may cup. You do not have to stain the back side, just seal it and seal all cut ends prior to installing. 
The T&G should be already on site. I use a moisture meter and compare it's reading with other pine in the room. Without a meter, I recommend a minimum of one week to acclimate, then sand, stain and seal. If the boards come in with a higher moisture content they are slightly wider and your joint will open up when they reach equilibrium. If they come in lower, the boards will be slightly narrow and the boards will expand.


----------



## comp1911 (Jul 20, 2007)

clasact said:


> Comp1911 I like the look of your ceiling but just how did you account for the lights.Did you put the T&G up first and then cut it out or cut it and then install it around the lights


We just made the cuts as we installed the boards. Just fit up, trace a line and cut the section out with a jig saw.


----------

