# Adding drip edge to low-pitch patio roof



## Joboo (Feb 19, 2012)

Hi - During a recent storm I noticed the patio roof (low-pitch, roll roofing) was dripping quite a bit despite the presence of a gutter and downspout. Climbing the ladder revealed that there is no drip edge installed. 

(As an aside, I feel a little silly because this was noted in the inspection, I asked for a repair and then approved when I saw they had installed it along the pitched ends of the roof. It hadn't occurred to me that the edge with the gutter would need one too.)

It looks like the roll roofing was installed to hang an inch over the gutters, but of course, that's not how water works and it has been coming back under, soaking the OSB and running down the fascia board.

I feel pretty confident I can handle this install, but I have some questions (based on the photos below): Should the drip edge be installed a) flush with the existing roll roof edge, b) flush with the OSB sheathing, c) just as long as it's over the gutter who cares? If the answer is "b", should I cut the roofing material back to be flush or create a specific overhang? As you can see from the photos, there is a line of nails right at the edge that will need to be removed for installation of the drip edge. Do I reinstall those when finished, or use some other form of fastener or adhesive?

Anything else I'm missing?












Thanks in advance!
Joboo


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1 in my opion roll roofing should never have been used. It's one of the lowest classes of roofing, you would be lucky to get more then 5 years out of it. I would not use it on a chicken coop.
With that low a slope it should have been EPDM, metal, PVC.
With all those exposed nails no wonder it's leaking.
Adding the drip cap will do little good.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Agreed, sorry but that whole roof is terrible and just putting drip edge on is not going to do much. By the time you do it properly you might as well do the whole thing.

IF you can do a proper transition to the upper pitch, a standing seam (not rolled rib) roof would be a fairly easy and effective system there. Difficulty depends partly on how badly the sheeting and fascia are rotted away from the exposure it's been getting.

I wouldn't be surprised if a good chunk of your problems is the roof itself and all those exposed fasteners and not the lack of drip edge. The latent water surrounding the nail heads is an indication that every one of those is sucking water.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

They're right. It needs to be roofed with real roof material.


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## Joboo (Feb 19, 2012)

OK. I'll replace the roof. In February. In Oregon.

This is why houses fall apart. People come looking for help and get berated for having the audacity to have a crappy house in the first place. I humbly apologize for living in a chicken coop and I hope you forgive me.

I realize the roof is crap and uses low-quality materials. I realize that it will need to be replaced. Right now though, it's raining and I want to prevent any more damage to the parts of the roof that are salvageable. Apparently I wandered into an episode of Holmes on Homes.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Then just put some Black jack roof sealant on the nail heads.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Ummm, WOW!


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## roofermikeinc (Feb 4, 2012)

Why hate on the material. Can't tell what it is. Probably just some cold-applied 90lb. or mineral cap which in Miami roofers sell just to get the job.
But it could be a modified cap which, as part of a well-designed BUR, is a practical residential roofing system. Judging by the pic :laughing: I doubt it. 
Could install a drip-edge and strip it with something.

Then bless it... :whistling2:


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

Joboo said:


> OK. I'll replace the roof. In February. In Oregon.
> 
> This is why houses fall apart. People come looking for help and get berated for having the audacity to have a crappy house in the first place. I humbly apologize for living in a chicken coop and I hope you forgive me.
> 
> I realize the roof is crap and uses low-quality materials. I realize that it will need to be replaced. Right now though, it's raining and I want to prevent any more damage to the parts of the roof that are salvageable. Apparently I wandered into an episode of Holmes on Homes.



:laughing::thumbup:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Joboo said:


> OK. I'll replace the roof. In February. In Oregon.
> 
> This is why houses fall apart. People come looking for help and get berated for having the audacity to have a crappy house in the first place. I humbly apologize for living in a chicken coop and I hope you forgive me.
> 
> I realize the roof is crap and uses low-quality materials. I realize that it will need to be replaced. Right now though, it's raining and I want to prevent any more damage to the parts of the roof that are salvageable. Apparently I wandered into an episode of Holmes on Homes.


:laughing:

The Holmes on Homes comment is quite funny.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Could cut back the edge, install drip edge and 3-course it or something but it would just cause new problems. We tell him drip edge isn't his only or main problem and he acts like we just killed his cat. 

BTW I am writing this in my motel room...on the Oregon coast...roofing in Oregon...in February. :whistling2::whistling2::whistling2: Just sayin'

As far as the material Mike; Can tell by looking at it what it is and just because some roofers sell something that doesn't make it a good product. (just look at TPO :laughing::laughing Oh prepare for the firestorm. :thumbup:

From the pictures it appears to be over an outside space. It is a fairly small and simple roofdeck for a DIY which is why I suggested looking at doing the whole thing correctly. Since the OP informed us it is a chicken coop then that makes it even easier to do in February.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

OldNBroken said:


> Since the OP informed us it is a chicken coop then that makes it even easier to do in February.



He was gonna move, but he needs the eggs:jester:


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

Joboo said:


> OK. I'll replace the roof. In February. In Oregon.
> 
> This is why houses fall apart. People come looking for help and get berated for having the audacity to have a crappy house in the first place. I humbly apologize for living in a chicken coop and I hope you forgive me.
> 
> I realize the roof is crap and uses low-quality materials. I realize that it will need to be replaced. Right now though, it's raining and I want to prevent any more damage to the parts of the roof that are salvageable. Apparently I wandered into an episode of Holmes on Homes.



Actually, you've been given good advice. It's more likely the nails that are letting the water in to the edge of the sheathing. Tarring them up is more likely to buy you some time than trying to add drip edge under a roof in questionable condition. 

As far as the berating, it didn't actually happen. Most of the answers you got are from seasoned pros and they've seen this scenario many times. The roll roofing that you have on that low of a slope is maybe a 5 year roof. For what it costs to do it twice and repair the damage that ensues when it starts to fail, you could have a 20+ year membrane roof. 

Good luck and that Holmes comment was a good one.:laughing:


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## frankaquino (Aug 8, 2016)

Hi, this post is old and (hopefully) will have been solved by now, but in case not, here is what I did to solve the back flow drip on my low angle corrugated iron roof. The roof was installed at too low an angle for efficient fall into the gutter.

I drilled a 1/8" hole at the edge of the valley of each corrugation and dropped a 2" galvanized nail in it so it points into the gutter. This gives the surface tension of the water something to grab on to and drop into the gutter, rather than run back under the sheet to the fascia board. Works brilliantly for those annoying drips when the runoff has slowed.

Hope it helps someone.


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