# Raising a window header - need some advice



## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

I have a small ranch with a hip roof. In my kitchen is a 5' wide garden window that needs replacement. I plan on installing a 2 wide with transom double hung window in its place but I need to raise the header 9" to accomplish this. No change to the window opening width. The current header is a double 2x10 resting on a pair of jack studs on each side. I have some questions about how I can go about this change before I start pulling cabinets off the wall:

How far back and how wide of a temporary wall should I erect from the window opening? (I'm hoping 3 feet back will work so I have room)

Since this window is above kitchen cabinets, I suspect I will encounter electric wires and plumbing in the studs. Any tips to work around this factor?

Thanks for reading, hope I can get some tips to tackle this window.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

ncrango said:


> I have a small ranch with a hip roof. In my kitchen is a 5' wide garden window that needs replacement. I plan on installing a 2 wide with transom double hung window in its place but I need to raise the header 9" to accomplish this. No change to the window opening width. The current header is a double 2x10 resting on a pair of jack studs on each side. I have some questions about how I can go about this change before I start pulling cabinets off the wall:
> 
> How far back and how wide of a temporary wall should I erect from the window opening? (I'm hoping 3 feet back will work so I have room)
> 
> ...


What is the ceiling height?


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

9ft ceiling. One thing I noticed is both jack studs go all the way down to the floor plate. I was hoping they would reach down to the sill plate which would have been much easier


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

You might not have the room to raise the header and you can't go with a smaller one.
Oh. 9' ceiling.
My bad.
3' is pushing it.


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

Yeah I checked and measured the king stud (from attic) to top plate and I have 4 inches or so to spare once raised up. My dining room patio door also has this 1ft transom on same exterior wall and my goal is to install new window where the transom height matches my patio door outside. Ill send a pic to show you. Thanks for helping me


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

Also, third question I had was about the pair of jack studs on each end That go to the floor plate. (The sill has its own ' 3rd 'support stud.)Could I cut the pairs of jack studs where the sill plate can be extended over them. Therefore I would insert a new sill plate that goes over the double jacks and then run a pair of new jack studs up from atop the sill plate to support the new header height? Would this fly? If so, I could avoid messing with the jack studs below the window which probably have electric and plumbing running through them. If a drawing would help, Ill try and post one


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

If I understand correctly you want the top of the window to match the slider top?

This will most likely require you to open everything up and put a header on top of the top plate.


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

Yes the transom on top of the two double hungs, id like to have that level with the transom over the patio door. I measured for this and it still keeps me under the top sill plate. It looks deceiving from the picture but my ceiling joists are about 12" above the eves you see in the photo. I have 9' ceilings inside which is higher than my eves by 12" My roof pitch is steep and I confirmed this from measuring in the attic


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

In other words, the new header location over transom is still lower than my kitchen ceiling. with a few inches to spare, so i think i might be in a scenario where the top of the header is flush against the bottom of the top plate- no cripples needed


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

quick sketch


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

titanoman said:


> You might not have the room to raise the header and you can't go with a smaller one.


You can always go with a smaller header. You can have lvls sized or flitch plates sized....steel....


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

ncrango said:


> quick sketch


Is this a viable option?


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

yes it is viable


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

This will probably be somewhat controversial but I do not know why you could not just add 2xs to the existing trimmers on both sides.
They are presumably nailed to the king studs and you could do the same for the new additions on top of the trimmers, perhaps glue them as well for a little extra security.
I guess you could cut the inner most one down at about 6" from the top sill (really? 4 sill plates?) and the outer most one at the middle of the existing window space.
All the loads from the header are straight down and don't think it would cause much of a hinge point at those junctures.
You could then use the same header only higher and not have to put new sill plates in (or have to stretch them).

Andy.


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## ncrango (Feb 3, 2012)

Thanks. Yeah I was suprised to see 4 sill plates myself


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