# Removable Vinyl Fence Post



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

How about a gate?


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

How is the PVC post set in the ground now...concrete ? If so, how deep and how large of square or circle is the concrete and is it flush to the ground ? Have a pic of the post base ?


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## rmorgan001 (Jan 14, 2013)

Guap0_ said:


> How about a gate?


I thought about that but decided not to. My driveway is center lot with the fence along the front. The right side of the lot is for sump access and left side of the is for truck access to back yard. Too many gates needed and driveway cant handle heavy trucks.

Thanks for the thought!
--Rob


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## rmorgan001 (Jan 14, 2013)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> How is the PVC post set in the ground now...concrete ? If so, how deep and how large of square or circle is the concrete and is it flush to the ground ? Have a pic of the post base ?


I'll check this out and post back. Only been in the house a month so not sure what's holding it up.

--Rob


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Normally in split rail fences the rails are just slid out from between the post.

If yours is attached.
Then use brackets so the rails can be lifted out.

The post remain.


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## rmorgan001 (Jan 14, 2013)

Not sure if you can see my FB page and the pics or see attached photos.
https://www.facebook.com/remorgan001

First post left of corner is a 7ft post with 3ft in the sand, no concrete. Rails go though this post and connect in the corner and second left post.

I'd like to make the one post and rails simple to remove when needed. My thought was to cut the post at ground level and bolt in a sleeve. May have to put some concrete in to hold bottom section in place. Thoughts?


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

I see the concrete needing poured for the portable post anchoring system. And I see that bolts cannot be left sticking up out of the concrete to thread a post metal angle nut on to, as they may get run over with equipment tires whenever the post is removed for equipment passing through.

The post may down for 5 minutes or 4 hours while equipment needs to pass back and forth. I see no way in my old head, to make this portable post project a "quickie" project. All while ending up with a stable post when in place, yet portable and then not overwhelming to remove. . Stainless steel bolts and screws should be used to fight corrosion. Any exposed metal needs metal primer/finish painted ( Rustoleum) 

So in my opinion, Red Head concrete anchors would have to be used where the anchor is in the concrete and the bolts are then threaded down through a metal angle in to the anchor. Being done this way though, the anchors threads will get full of muck eventually and the bolts will not thread in to them. So all the time the post is in place or removed, the bolts will have to be left in the anchors and tightened down. 

I have made up two goofy sketches to get some ideas to get started from, and neither are quickie fixes. Maybe some others will come along now to help out hopefully, with some easier ideas. As said already, a gate would be best but, I see now is not an option for the OP. JMO


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

rmorgan001 said:


> Not sure if you can see my FB page and the pics or see attached photos.
> https://www.facebook.com/remorgan001
> 
> First post left of corner is a 7ft post with 3ft in the sand, no concrete. Rails go though this post and connect in the corner and second left post.
> ...


Just my opinion from living on horse and cow farms when young,

Eliminate the post making a section about 8 - 10 feet long,
The boards don't go into the post but have brackets that they rest in.
This allows the section to be removed easily to let whatever in or out without touching the post.


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## rmorgan001 (Jan 14, 2013)

ron45 said:


> Just my opinion from living on horse and cow farms when young,
> 
> Eliminate the post making a section about 8 - 10 feet long,
> The boards don't go into the post but have brackets that they rest in.
> This allows the section to be removed easily to let whatever in or out without touching the post.


Thanks for the reply!

Post to post is about 8ft on center. Too small for a concrete truck to go though so I need to remove one post and let the truck straddle a post hole. The rails are 16ft long and go though the center post. Rails just clip in each post so pulling them out shouldn't be too hard. Just didn't want to shovel the post out then back in every time.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

We slid a 6" sewer pipe over the post and set it in the ground and poured the concrete around it, the pipe stays and the post is removable.


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## rmorgan001 (Jan 14, 2013)

Nealtw said:


> We slid a 6" sewer pipe over the post and set it in the ground and poured the concrete around it, the pipe stays and the post is removable.


sewer pipe, that's a good idea too because don't need to cut the post. Does it fill up with water/mud and freeze?

--Rob


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

rmorgan001 said:


> sewer pipe, that's a good idea too because don't need to cut the post. Does it fill up with water/mud and freeze?
> 
> --Rob


We made sure the bottom was below frost depth, it is the ice below it that would lift it. We didn't let the concrete seal the bottom so the water level should be the same as the surrounding water table. You could cut a tight fitting rubber over the bottom of the posts to keep rain water out of the pipe.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Try this one more time.

You can space the post up to 19' apart.

You can get the U shape brackets so that rails rest inside them and can be lifted out with no problem.

The brackets can be used on any three sides of the post

That will give you 19 feet of open space to drive any truck you wish through. 

Here's the old way of doing it, but like I said, they make the brackets for it now.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

How bout if the post was protected by a release agent so it could be removed and replaced when set in concrete?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> How bout if the post was protected by a release agent so it could be removed and replaced when set in concrete?


 Then you have to consider expansion and contraction of the two. Parts of the year it may not be removable.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Then you have to consider expansion and contraction of the two. Parts of the year it may not be removable.


If that's a concern just wing it by adding more release agent.:biggrin2:


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

If it is only going to be removed occasionally and temporarily, why not pour a concrete post to ground level and embed a saddle bracket to screw the fence post to. If it is a hollow post, mount a block of PT wood to the base and screw the fence post to it. If it is in the middle of the gap, a truck should be able to avoid it with a little bit of care.


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