# Garage doors insulation



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Wrong doors installed in the first place.
Best you can do is install foam board with constrution adhesive to the doors.
Must be the one to attach metal to foam.


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Wrong doors installed in the first place.


Hi,

Would you elaborate on this statement?

Thank you
Alex


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

Has anybody else an opinion on this?

Actually, foam boards are OK, but I wonder if they exist in long panels, standard they are 54", anything 108" long? It would be better in my case given that my doors have no frames, therefore I would rather like to avoid a space in between two panels.

Also, if you know any brand with a high R grade, please let me know.

Thank you
Alex


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Consider asking the manufacturer of the foam boards if there is a recommended cement/glue so 2 panels could be glued to make the 108" length.


----------



## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

This looks like a insulated door from here, and that's all i have myself. I'm heating my garage with a gas shop-heater. That gap in the seal on the bottom needs fixing though.
I'm always looking for more insulation and am curious on what you end up with.


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi all,

Eventually, I decided to buy this however, due to the fact that my doors have no frames, I will need more retainer clip as Owens Corning provide 2 per panel, so I got in touch with them but unfortunately they are unable to supply additional clips, they might be able to by the end of the year, but not at the moment.

So, I will get the two kits soon and I have to find a way to stick them to the door...:vs_worry: thinking...

Your ideas are very welcome, tape is not an option as you cannot tape fiberglass to a door...


Thank you!
Alex


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

How about a picture of the door edge? Appears to be insulated, as in Post #6... reason I didn't answer. that is why; no exposed frame the hardware is fastened to.

Gary


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi,

Sure! Here they are, the door thickness id 1"1/4/.

The doors may be insulated but when you have a temperature ranging between 23F and 19F, adding insulation can only help, that's why I did not bother too much to whether they are insulated or not.








Thank you :smile:
Alex


----------



## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

Wondering if a C-channel thats used for siding would be of use, if screwed to the door to make a frame with, the insulation could sit in.


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

78Vette said:


> Wondering if a C-channel thats used for siding would be of use, if screwed to the door to make a frame with, the insulation could sit in.


To be honest, I thought about that today, so I started to browse the Internet, but I can only find aluminum c-channels, expensive too.
My idea was to find them in PVC, however I think they should be at least 1" on the three sides, because I do not like the idea to drill them to the door but rather to tape them.

It's good... let's keep brainstorming :vs_worry:

Alex


----------



## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

Metallo said:


> To be honest, I thought about that today, so I started to browse the Internet, but I can only find aluminum c-channels, expensive too.
> My idea was to find them in PVC, however I think they should be at least 1" on the three sides, because I do not like the idea to drill them to the door but rather to tape them.
> 
> It's good... let's keep brainstorming :vs_worry:
> ...


I love Tape, but not for that purpose. The doors may build up condensation and tape may not be the best way to go in the long run.


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi,

When I say tape, I mean a strong one but just of the edge of the panels as in the center there are the retainer clips, something good like 3M or Gorilla... 1" wide all around the panel.
But again, this is not an option as it is fiberglass.

Still trying to figure out a solution 

Thanks
Alex


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You do realize there is a frame around each door panel of yours pictured (unless a really cheap door...). The insulating foam is installed between the members, then covered with skin. The hardware is fastened to the frame (wood or metal) through the fiberglass/metal skin. Buy some metal flashing install at perimeter of each panel, then fasten the blanket to that. Call the door manufacturer for width of frame members, may even find it on-line... to figure width of "L' flashing.

Gary


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

Gary in WA said:


> You do realize there is a frame around each door panel of yours pictured (unless a really cheap door...). The insulating foam is installed between the members, then covered with skin. The hardware is fastened to the frame (wood or metal) through the fiberglass/metal skin. Buy some metal flashing install at perimeter of each panel, then fasten the blanket to that. Call the door manufacturer for width of frame members, may even find it on-line... to figure width of "L' flashing.
> 
> Gary


Gary, 

I realize about the frame but I cannot see how to fix the insulation panels to a "L" shaped frame.
I can see a "C" or possibly "J" shaped frame to do the job but...



The door manufacturer is not stamped/labeled anywhere on those doors, probably removed by the builder when they installed the doors
I can find J-trim like this but...


will it stay with adhesive?
Also, I need 8 per door, two doors = 16 which means C$ 110.00 tax included - not cheap
Preferably I want to avoid drilling the door, I tend to prefer tape, but I hope to find a solution that is cheaper than the insulation panels themselves.


Alex


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The door has a frame for drilling, attaching with self-tappers (hex-head screws) actually- remove one of them and look at it. Has a cut across the tapered threads for piercing metal without drilling- I installed them for 3 months before travel time was too excessive. Forget tape. IMO, use some flat washers with st screws in a grid pattern on each panel, if the FG is compressed enough- the skrim coating should hold together, no perimeter support required. Add more field screws, the FG can't be that heavy.

Gary


----------



## Metallo (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi all,

Here is I solved it:



Material used to fix the panels:

1) Braid nylon rope: $ 1.49 x 2
2) Gorilla white duct tape (only for aesthetics) $11.00

No drills or extra screws, I used the existing ones to pass the rope and create a perimeter on each panel.

It takes time if you are precise as I tend to be, you have to cut the panels from 22" to 21" inches and customize all the corners, you need somebody to help to keep the panels in place when fixing the retainer clips and tight the rope.

I like the result and I hope this helps other Canadians with doors like mine to find a cheap and 'light' way to fix the panels.
No adjustment to the force of the garage door opener was needed.



Alex


----------

