# Mouse Proofing



## prairiewind (Jan 26, 2019)

I have a pretty good handle on mouse exclusion, involving thick mesh for big holes, copper mesh and caulk/foam for smaller holes. I am a bit worried about where the vinyl siding meets the parging.


I don't want to spend hours putting copper mesh in there. Is that the best method, though? For the most part the vinyl lays quite tight against the parging. I am scared that sealing that gap with sealant will cause moisture drainage issues.


I know it would be hard for rodents to gain access there, but I want to turn my house into Fort Knox, and have the time and energy to commit to doing it perfectly.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

prairiewind said:


> I have a pretty good handle on mouse exclusion, involving thick mesh for big holes, copper mesh and caulk/foam for smaller holes. I am a bit worried about where the vinyl siding meets the parging.
> 
> 
> I don't want to spend hours putting copper mesh in there. Is that the best method, though? For the most part the vinyl lays quite tight against the parging. I am scared that sealing that gap with sealant will cause moisture drainage issues.
> ...


aluminum window screen, 2 inch wide, fold it in half and tuck it in with the a wide putty knife where you can.


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## prairiewind (Jan 26, 2019)

Yeah!


That will work perfectly.


Easy, clean, and will accomplish exactly what I want.


Thank you.


:smile:


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## prairiewind (Jan 26, 2019)

I'm doing some additional mouse proofing.


After the spring cleaning of my basement, I am able to pinpoint holes from the inside, as there is no insulation (I will be installing in the fall).


I am seeing a hole near the front entry way. However, I would like to mouse proof both from the outside and the inside.


The front step is problematic, though. It is pre-cast concrete, the back and one side of which sit against the house.


The house's concrete foundation extends above the step on the side, but at the back the foundation dips to floor level for the entry way. That interface between the door's wall and the concrete foundation allows a number of gaps, especially in the corner. 



Step removal would be expensive, as I would have to put a pile at the corner to support the post supporting the roof overhang. So, demolition or skid steer hire for removal, paying for a pile to be installed, and then paying for a wooden step.


Temporary removal of some of the siding and trim would probably let me access most of the foundation and wall interfaces, but messing around with that will probably lead to mistakes or breaking stuff.... 



A city building planner suggested I cut a hole in the top and fill in the step with a base of about 6-10 inches of concrete to block critters making homes under it. He also suggested pouring concrete down the back, where the red circle is, after blocking up the sides where the yellow circles are to prevent outflow, effectively creating a concrete slab sandwiched between the step and the foundation. Because the step sits on support tines that are bolted to the foundation, I am worried about extra weight being associated with the step.


My goal is to NOT have mice getting in at all, by creating Fort Knox.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

The only Fort Knox rated "mouse stopper" I know of, is what is in the pic. I saw it out in the back yard today and took a pic of it. The only problem is, it will not only kill mice, but about everything that flies, crawls or hops in the yard.

And if it is not a stray and maybe one from a shelter that was rescued and given a home by the property owner, they will sometimes lay their kill on the doorstep or porch. 

Just their way of showing "thanks" for the home owner giving it a home, I guess.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Once you have a "handle" on the mouse problem, remove all the food sources, then put small bowls of RatX pellets where they appear to be emerging. It is non poisonous, even to second generation, so there is no problem with pets or animals like hawks that could be killed if they ate a poisoned mouse. It is eaten by the mouse and it deprives them of moisture. They will not be able to take on water and will die of dehydration. Generally they do not even smell afterwards. It is available at the Orange store.


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## prairiewind (Jan 26, 2019)

I have good news. Yesterday I tried siding removal around my front door, and was able to access where I felt the mice were getting in. The concrete step was not in the way of getting at the holes. The band joist's lower portion and sill were slightly out of reach, but any cracks between those are fully accessible from the basement. What I learned is that the subfloor was not flush with the entry way wall board, and the wall was not flush to where it met the foundation. No gaping holes, but enough for a mouse to squeeze through. There was a bit of a tunnel along the subfloor, with a small passage into the basement.



So, after hours of taking off pieces of siding, filling the cracks with caulking and copper mesh, or out and out screwing 1/4 wire mesh over the holes, and carefully putting back siding, I have solved what I think was the greatest hurdle, perhaps the only one based on where rodent contamination was when I cleaned, and where I trapped mice.


Relieved I don't have to remove a concrete step.



Now for the easier more accessible rodent proofing....


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