# How hard is it to replace linoleum?



## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

what condition is the current floor?


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

redline said:


> what condition is the current floor?


Structurally the floor is fine from what I can tell. 

Unless you're talking about the current linoleum/vinyl it appears to be in pretty great condition. Its not torn or peeling anywhere that I can tell, except for right around the door jamb where they cut, it doesn't look like they pushed all the way down, or didn't cut enough to be able to push it down.


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## dante (Feb 26, 2007)

*Hope i'm helpful*

Is it true linoleum or is it vinyl? If it's true linoleum its probably at least 15 yrs old, other wise its vinyl. True linoleum should peal up with no problem even on wood subfloors. Vinyl on the other hand is not as easy. What you need to do if you can't pull up the linoleum is buy some embossing leveler. Embossing is the pattern on the floor. If you cant feal the pattern it's just a print. Trowel the embossing leveler on entire floor. Once dry, scrape any ridges you feel. Now your free to install another peice of vinyl. If using laminate you won't need to take those steps, just pull the toilet and install laminate. Make sure you go around the toilet flange but leave a 3/8" space around the flange as well as every wall. You can put anything you want on top of the floor, just don't anchor it directly to the floor (no nails through the floor). 

Dante


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

Well said....


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## Wideawake (Mar 2, 2007)

I reno'd a rental property I own and pulled up multiple layers of old linoleum tiles (the original type). You can re-tile right over them, but if you're adding too many layers, you could have issues with re-installing your toilet. Not insurmountable of course but some people like to reno clean so if you decide to pull it all up, here's how. 

Dante, you said pulling linoleum up from a wooden subfloor was easy but that sure wasn't my experience. Its very brittle at room temperature and I could only get small pieces from the edges while the rest was glued on for life. Then someone told me about using an old iron. If was messy but it became like putty as soon as I left the iron on it for a while. Some glue residue was left but this wasn't a problem. 

Dante is bang on about using the leveler though. Even the slightest seam of indentation will show a crack eventually so you need a completely smooth and level surface if you plan on installing linoleum again, regardless of whether you do it over the old floor or on a clean subfloor. The iron comes in very handy during installation again: if you warm up the tiles, you can use a utility knife and cut pieces like butter to whatever shape you need. You'll never be able to use it on clothes again, though, so I've picked up a few at garage sales just in case another lino project comes up. 

Ceramic/porcelain tile can be great but only an option if your joists aren't too far apart. Jump on the floor and if there is any give at all, your ceramic tile will crack. (Again, not insurmountable but you'd need to pull up the subfloor and install 3/4 inch plywood. this isnt a great option if you need your bathroom later the same day). If it works, I would opt for very narrow grout lines. I tried wider grout lines around a slate floor I did in a bathroom once and they didn't wear very well under all the traffic and water. 

Hope this helps.


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