# Inducer Part Needed: Please Help!



## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

I am hoping that a kind soul here might be able to help me out -- My inducer in my Ducane gas heater started making a HUGE noise all of a sudden. I took the inducer assembly off and removed the back casing to notice the plastic wheel inside busted off around 10 of the flaps/spokes (hence the noise!). My HVAC guy sent me to a local repair shop who is telling me I need to buy a TOTALLY NEW INDUCER MOTOR. This is nuts. I have the part in my hand here! I just can't seem to find it sold anywhere. Can anyone help me find this?

The blower assembly is a Fasco 7062-3136, type U62B1. Part Number is 20000101. The part number on the plastic piece is 8710-4358. A quick google search turned up nothing. I may try and contact Fasco next. 

Anyone here in the know that can help me out? It's getting cold here in Pennsylvania and I don't have heat without this part! 

And I'd sure hate to waste hundreds on a new motor I don't need.

Help?

BDP


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

I looked in my EPIC catalog, it did not have a number for the blower wheel itself. The only help I can give you would be the assembly part # for the generic if its the same unit as caseywa. The part # for that generic is listed in his thread as a A142 fasco.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Thanks Rusty for the fast reply. I just looked up and it's indeed the blower wheel (I wasn't sure what the name of the part was). I measured the wheel to be 4 3/4" in diameter, 1 3/4" wide, and a 1/2" shaft depth. Not sure if it is CW or CCW. Question - Can I get a generic blower wheel or should I match it exact? Is that important?


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Hey also Rusty -- Assuming tha A142 directly replaces the entire part, is there a way I can just the the blower wheel from the A142 unit or are they still going to sock me for an entirely new blower?

I'd much rather just order a blower wheel and try first before I pay a couple hundred for a motor. And if I do need to give in and buy the entire motor, is there a cheap place you recommend I can do that?

Thanks for any help! This is my first experience working on a heater.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

You will need to get one exactly the same. The velocity has to be the same for proper combustion. You can damage your heat exchanger by using the wrong parts. Let me know if I can help further.

Good luck
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

So it's looking like I am going to be stuck buying a whole new motor even though I just need a part. That's really terrible that they do that to you.

I did a bit more research and it's looking like another site is showing the A168 as a replacement for part 20000101, not the A142. Is it possible I need the A168 instead? 

And any suggestions for wholesalers? Are links allowed?


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

If you can give me the model # of your furnace I can tell you exactly the one you need.

Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

No problem!

CMPA075U3 from Ducane. Serial is 2220109904,


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

They are telling me that the direct replacement is a A147 fasco. Not sure what you can find one for but they priced it to me for $187.50. Hope this helps.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Well who's not to trust what "they" say eh?  I'll see what I can find. In the meantime, one other question for a newbie repair guy -- The unit is shut off via the red emergency switch on the wall. So no power to the blower. Does that mean it's safe to mess with the wires going into it underneath? Screwing the new part on I can handle, but I'm not seeing how to disconnect these 3 wires that go into the bottom - Is this do-able for a new guy like me or should I call the HVAC guy back? He charged me $85 to remove the blower and diagnose the problem (in about 20 minutes) so I'd rather not get him back unless I HAVE to.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

If you look just below the inducer assy there should be a little white plug you can take apart. Never work on any electrical appliance without first shutting power off and verifying that it is off. I don't mind giving you the ability to do the work, but I will not kill someone. When you shut the switch off, go to your thermostat and turn the fan switch to on. If the indoor blower does not come on you should be safe. If it does come on you will need to shut unit off at the breaker. If you have a voltmeter I would reccomend using it before touching any wires. Let us know if we can help any further.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Yep, the thermostat is on and it doesn't run with the red switch off. I'll still check the voltage. Thanks! Just wanted to be sure.


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Hey Carrierman?

I looked closer at the blower motor assembly. It seems that the wires going into the bottom of it are just hard wired all the way to the inside of the motor cage itself. Am I going to need a professional to wire in a new motor? I followed the black and white wires all the way out and they just disappear into the heating unit. I don't see a plug anywhere. Where is this plug normally located with these motors?


Thanks,

Brad


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

You should be able to do this with no problem, but if you are not comfortable with it do not attempt it. Like I said before, I will not get someone killed. All you need to do is follow the wire back from the inducer to the board. Make sure when you pull the wires off the board you put them back on in the right place.

Good luck
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

I certainly understand safety and that you don't want to get me killed. Thanks. 

Where ya lost me is the concept of "the board". The wires I see go in through a hollow black tube at the bottom of the inducer motor and then disappear inside the coils of the motor. I don't see where they go from there. Is the board inside there? The other end of them, I can't see where they are going. They disappear into a white tube and seem to go down towards the floor. Is the board you mention somewhere else in my HVAC unit that I need to take more pieces apart to get at?

I have the breaker turned off to the unit, as well as the emergency switch for the unit set to off, so I am safe -- I just need to know where these wires actually meet the board you speak of.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

Follow the wires away from the motor. You should see a circuit board in the blower compartment. On this board you should be able to locate where the wires are connected. If you have any further questions I will be happy to answer them.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Okay, just to be sure. The black and white wires you see at the bottom here go into the inducer and I see no way to get at them, so I assume you mean I am to remove the lower plates from the heating unit so I can get to the lower half of the unit, which is where the black and white wires are going down in the hole on the lower right corner there? They are leading to a board behind there, and that is where I remove the wires and re-attach the new ones correct?

IF you can clarify, thanks, and sorry for my stupidity. First time working on one of these.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

Man I love technology, see the panel just below the inducer assy?. Remove the two screws that are in the top of that panel and remove the panel. Inside this compartment you will see a printed circuit board. To remove the wires from the black grommet you will have to squeeze it with a pair of pliars and lift it out of the hole. When you get in there you will see what I am talking about. I cant tell for sure but it looks like to get the panel of all you will need is a 5/16" nut driver. Let me know if I can help any further.

Good luck
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

You gotta love technology!

That was easy. I found it and got the old one unhooked. May need some help once the new part arrives just to make sure I put the hoses in the right spot -- I just hope the bolt holes match up since this is a replacement part and not exact! Guess we'll see. I was careful and ordered from a 30 day money back place online, so at least I figure I'm safe if for some reason it doesn't work. With your help, I was able to find the board and connecting up the new motor should be a breeze.

Thanks! Now if only I could make the part magically appear, I could have heat tonight!

BTW - Just of interest, the dealer I spoke with had the blower wheel in the clockwise config, but NOT counter-clockwise as the unit requires. His theory was that Fasco does this on purpose to force consumers to have to purchase an entirely new motor unit rather that just a cheap new plastic blower wheel. Such a shame. I'm beside myself about that (and the $85 the HVAC guy charged me to come over and diagnose the problem which took 10 minutes).


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

I knew you could do it, but just remember. Guys that do what I do for a living get paid for their skills not their time. As far as hooking it back up, I know you will have no problems. I am also glad I could be a help to you. Just one thing to remember, when you pull the old inducer off there will be a big sheetmetal washer in the opening of the inducer. You will need to put this piece back on the new inducer assembly for your furnace to work properly. If it does not come with a new seal, clean the furnace surface up real good and use a 3/8" bead of silicone caulking to reseal the inducer to the furnace. When you reinstall the mounting screws make sure not to overtighten and strip them out. Let me know if you need any futher assistance.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Rusty,

Can't say how much I appreciate the help and attention. I don't mean at all to begrudge what you do for a living, at all, I'm just one of those folks who hates to waste cash when I'm capable of doing it myself, is all. This has been a fun learning experience. 

The part's not showing til Friday via UPS so I have a couple more chilly days to get ready, but I want to be 100% when it's here. So two more questions and photos.

First up, I stupidly forgot to note which wire when where when I disconnected the old fan. Real dumb. Could you help? Here's a shot. I believe the black went to one of the upper pegs and the white to the lower. They are all labelled.

Second, bigger concern is this new washer/seal. This is the back of my old fan. There's a large washer and thin black foam that looks to be glued on there. Are you saying I need to remove that from this (looks tough with the glue) or should I just go out and pick up a couple parts? Thanks for letting me know this, I'd have put the new fan on without any sort of seal on the back otherwise since I'm guessing this won't be attached.

Photos below.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

The wires should be as follows. The white wire to the inducer assy should go to one of the terminals marked N the black wire will go to the terminal marked with either IDM or CM on this board, there were some wires in the way so I cant tell for shure what it says. The metal washer thing in the middle of the inducer is easy to get out of there. Take a knife of some sort and slip it between the metal washer and the gasket until it stops. Lift the knife up and cut the seal around the outer edge of the washer. At this point the washer will lift out. If you put a small bead of silicone caulking around the outer edge of the washer when you put it in the new inducer assy., this will hold it inplace for you while you install the new inducer. Let me know if I can help any further.

Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

I have nothing to do but wait for this part so I will keep asking questions.  

So which side on the NEW blower should I be fastening the washer to? The side in the photo (the outside, towards the heating unit itself is what you see in my photo) or on the inside of the casing? Also, that black foam padding that's there in the pic on the outside, will the new blower have that padding on it? I assume it will.

So the white can go to either of those 2 N terminals?

I can swear the black was attached to either the HUM or EAC or CONT (hidden, it's behind wires in the pic). HUM and EAC are bove the 2 N ports there in the pic -- I don't see IDM or CM anywhere. I am 99% positive black was connected to HUM, EAC, or CONT. Thoughts?


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Hey guys...I have been emailing with Brad about the fan for his inducer. I am expecting my new inducer (A412) in next week. If my fan looks okay then I will pull off and send off to Brad since we use the same exact inducer.

I also found a great place to get the inducer...it is costing me $150 out the door with shipping included in that price. (actually about $135 plus shipping).

Casey


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

One other point about the replacement inducer. I received one but it was damaged by UPS in-transit. I noted that the two wires that Brad refers to as black and white are black and black on the replacement. Guess it does not matter what goes to what.

Here is a picture that I took of the replacement A142 showing the wiring information...

Casey


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## rookie50 (Nov 26, 2006)

caseywa said:


> Hey guys...I have been emailing with Brad about the fan for his inducer. I am expecting my new inducer (A412) in next week. If my fan looks okay then I will pull off and send off to Brad since we use the same exact inducer.
> 
> I also found a great place to get the inducer...it is costing me $150 out the door with shipping included in that price. (actually about $135 plus shipping).
> 
> Casey


Would you mind sharing where your source is?


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

Can you move the wires and give me a little clearer shot of the board. EAC stands for electronic air cleaner and HUM is humidifier CONT is continuous blower. If you can do this for me I will make sure you get it back on properly. The answer to your question, put the washer in the inducer before installing the assembly.

Rusty


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Sorry did not mention this before because I was not sure if I could or not...hope I am not violating any of the posting rules. I am just a consumer and have no financial interest in this company.

Supplystuf on Ebay. They are McCombs Supply out of PA.

They have been great to work with. My first inducer was damaged in transit and a replacement is on its way to me now. Easy to communicate with both email and phone.

Casey


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Oh, #Carrierman. Since I will be installing my inducer also in the near future, is there a particular type of silicone to use and do I need to let it setup to hold on the washer before mounting onto the furnace or do so while the silicone is still tacky? Thanks, Casey


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

How frustrating considering that i LIVE in Harrisburg! Sheesh. What a weird world this is. 

Carrierman, let me take a better pic for you. I swear the black was on one of those tabs I mentioned though, and there are not many more to choose from. More pics shortly!

Casey - Let me know how you make out. If I need parts it's good to know I can drive to the place I need to go to. That's really weird that it's 10 minutes away from my house. And even more frustrating if it turns out they have that wheel I need! I'm gonna call them.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA & caseywa

Glad to see you guys are getting toward the end of your projects. The silicone I prefer to use is Red Devil Pro or its also called RD PRO it don't matter what color you use. This silicone has a temperature rating @ 500 deg. It also has good adhering properties. Let me know if you need any more help.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Yessir - Either casey can hook me up with the blower wheel or I'm just putting in a brand new motor like he is. It's intesting that his was the 142 and mine was the 147 to replace the same blower part -- But I guess part of it is furnace-specific and that's why they are slightly different.

Anyway, 2 more questions and photos then. First up, here's a better photo of the board and all the contacts. I am nearly positive that the black and white wires went in that same column there. So the white goes to an N, they mystery is just where that black one goes.

The open ports are, from top to bottom: HUM, EAC, N, N, CONT (that may be it). Then the next column to the right has DI, and then Unused Motor Leads.

Second, I removed the washer, but it seemed like it attached more on the outside wall of the motor, the side that goes towards the furnace -- Will the new motor have a foam black pad like that on the outside? That's where the washer was on the current assembly, wedged in a ridge of that black padding there.

As always, thanks for your replies!

Photos ahead:


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

Now we are getting to the bottom of things. The terminal that is marked DI is actually ID, this stands for induced draft. This is where the black wire goes from your inducer assy. As far as the washer, the best place to put it is in the recessed area in the opening of the inducer. Sometimes on the assembly line they don't put stuff on quite right, believe me I got to tour a assembly plant. As far as the foam seal, I would use the silicone instead of it if I were installing it. That does not mean that you cannot use the seal if it is provided. What the manufacturer looks for once the prototype has been produced is the ability to mass produce these things. The foam seal had a adhesive on it, it would be easy for even a trained monkey to get this right. Imagine what it would take to use silicone on these when they are going by you at about three a minute. Thats why they come out of the factory with this type of seal. Like I said before don't let me talk you into doing something that you are not comfortable with. If the foam seal is supplied and you feel more comfortable using it, you are not going to hurt my feelings. The difference between yours and caseywa is the amount of torque that the motors are producing. When it comes to small amounts of air velocity differences. This could be the difference between being warm for a lot of years and freezing your backside off in the middle of winter. You always want to go back with the proper inducer assy. Let me know if you need me again

Good luck 
Rusty


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Brad...I had thought I needed the A147 to replace my inducer until I had the following forum exchange that led me to the A142 as the replacement:

http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=4684&highlight=a142

...and until I went to this Fasco website to cross reference the part:

http://www.fasco.com/xref_list.asp

I put in the number: 7062-3136 and searched for the Fasco OEM Nameplate Model ... with the result of A142

As Rusty said...since my inducer was a previous replacement does not mean that the correct one was installed. The one I have on the furnance now does look like the A147. I decided to go with what Fasco cross references with the model number I have now. Guess I will find out when I install it and see what happens.

Just thought that I would share my research results with you.

Casey


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Hey everyone! Just wanted to give you a progress report. My A142 arrived and I installed it, but because of Casey's words, and the possibility of getting his old wheel, I decided NOT to use any silicone seal and just sort of placed the washer in there and installed it. Rusty, what do I risk it not sealing it? The new unit is running quiet and working great! However, since I have a 30 day return policy on the motor, I thought I'd try it out and be sure.

Casey, once you get your new motor, if you don't need your old inducer wheel, PLEASE let me know! You still could save me a bunch of cash.

Thanks to all - Heat is good! Either way I'm happy I was able to fix it.

Oh, the biggest hassle by the way was the wiring -- The wires were both bare on the end, and the ID lead was REALLY short so I couldn't even run it through the wire hole anymore, had to do it direct and go to radio shack for connector ends to attach to the wires. It's never easy!


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Glad you have heat....UPS is scheduled for this Wedneday. My next days off are next Mon/Tues and will be planning for then to swap out the inducer.

So you went with the A142 instead of the A147? Was wondering about that.

Will keep ya posted for sure....Casey


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Brad, if you have any photos of the inside of you old inducer showing the wheel could you post them so I have an idea ahead of time what it looks like and how it comes apart? Thanks, Casey.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi BDPNA

You really should seal between the inducer assy and the collector box. For the short term it may not hurt anything, but I wouldn't let it run long like this. You are taking a chance at damaging the heat exchanger. On the flip side of the coin, told you that you could do it.

Rusty


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

#Carrierman...I was not able to get the RD Pro silicone but I did get a 2.8 oz tube of Dap 100% silicone rubber sealant 50 yr clear.

http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=25

Specs indicate that it is good between -40 to 400 degrees. Any problems you know of using this as the sealant for between my inducer and the box?

Thanks, Casey


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi caseywa

 The silicone you have should do fine. Thanks for letting me help.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## BDPNA (Nov 27, 2006)

Here are the two photos. The plastic blower wheel itself is the part I need Casey. To get at it, you just take apart the inducer casing by removing the screws on the outside and then use a pliers to grab the nut off the top of the shaft holding the blower wheel (the part I need). The wheel then slides off. You can see what happened to my blower wheel, it’s supposed to have teeth all around it, like you see at the bottom, you can see the huge hole in the top down photo of it, around 10 spokes broke off!!!


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## allenzachary (Dec 16, 2006)

Hi Guys-

I'm new to this forum, but have had great experiences elsewhere. 

I too am having inducer issues...the heat will not go on at all. The inducer motor was buzzing and blazing hot. I imagine it spun a bearing. Meanwhile, oddly enough, the inducer blower is a Fasco 7062-3136! How 'bout that?

Concerns I have: 

Fasco cross reference to the A142 says it belongs with Rheem and PMI Vulcan Furnaces. My Furnace is an ICP (Inter City Products Corp). I see no correlation between any of the ICP brands and Rheem or Vulcan.

Fasco also cautions that the "A142 ONLY HAS ONE (1) DRAIN HOLE ON TOP - ORIGINAL BLOWER HAD THREE (3). IF BLOWER CAN BE HORIZONTALLY MOUNTED WITH DRAIN HOLE DOWN, IT CAN BE USED. IF NOT, GO BACK TO OEM. ORIGINAL HAS 3 HOLES AND CAN BE MOUNTED IN 3 DIFFERENT POSITIONS." (from Fasco site)

What does "horizontally mounted" mean? The inducer on my unit is mounted like a small "d," exhaust pointing straight up (see my attached photo). All sample photos in catalogs and sites show it as rotated 90 degrees, with the exhaust pointing to the left. If I need to back to the OEM, how can I find one. Apparently this is not the original inducer, but I cannot confirm as the furnace was in place when I bought the house.

I've yet to remove the inducer to confirm that the motor is frozen.

Any other tips to make this easier?

thanks,

allenzachary


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi allenzachery

Your picture as shown, the furnace is in the horizontal position. To keep from having the problems with the drain. Call a Fasco dealer if you chose to go that way before you purchase one. Or get a factory replacement if possible. Keep in mind the factory replacement is going to be more expensive than a generic. Caseywa was able to use his motor mount section of the old one to resolve his problem. Just some things to think about, look this thread over good and you will have the same success these guys did.

Good luck
Rusty


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## acefurnacefixer (Nov 24, 2006)

#CARRIERMAN said:


> Hi BDPNA
> 
> You really should seal between the inducer assy and the collector box. For the short term it may not hurt anything, but I wouldn't let it run long like this. You are taking a chance at damaging the heat exchanger. On the flip side of the coin, told you that you could do it.
> 
> Rusty


 
Rusty is correct.....that is as long as you dont mind condensate leaking all over the place...........Sealer is *always *required on a condensing furnace, were to plastic parts meet.


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

What I actually did at this point, since I had purchased the A142, was modify the case to accept a drain nipple. Now I understand the issues of warranty and such but the purpose of this post is nothing more to share what I did to solve my problem...and not to suggest that this is the way for someone else to solve theirs.

I drilled a hole though the bottom of the inducer housing to accept a drain nipple that connects to the drain hose from the old inducer. I then trimmed and sanded lightly the inside of the nipple to be flush with the inner housing. I had also reinforced the housing so that the nipple had a larger thickness to attach to. The nipple screwed in secure but I added a little silicone to the threads to make sure.

I inducer is working well and the condensation is draining out nicely as before. I looked like that I could swap out the motor side of the inducer casing but will maybe look at that during the summer when I don't need the heat. It is working fine with my modification with the nipple at the downward 6 o'clock position.


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## acefurnacefixer (Nov 24, 2006)

I strongly recomend that you put a "trap loop" in that un-aproved modifacation. That may stop you from afixiating everyone in the household.............then again it may not.


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

acefurnacefixer...I am not quite understanding what you are trying to say, can you please be more specific. 

The old inducer had a condensation drain nipple what attached to a clear plastic hose that connected to a lower hard plastic drain pipe with a "p-trap"...like that under a kitchen or bathroom sink, just smaller. Is this the "trap loop" you are referencing?

The drain nipple from the new inducer is connected to this same clear plastic drain hose to the "p-trap". The only modification was the addition of a drain nipple in a different location on the house...considering the housing does, and requires to have, a condensation drain.

...and can you please further explain how the condensation drain from an inducer has the possibility of asphyxiating everyone in the household?

Thank you for any intellectual input in his matter supporting my learning endeavor.


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## acefurnacefixer (Nov 24, 2006)

Because that hose runs into the blower compartment ......right? ,but as long as the hose goes directly into a trap of some sort then i guess you as safe as you can be.


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

The hose goes into the same trap, in the same fashion, as it has for the last 14 years...as it was originally, professionally installed.


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi caseywa

What you have done is fine. You should have absolutly no problems now or in the future. I am sorry that someone has tried to mislead you. Merry Christmas to you and your family.

Good luck 
Rusty


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

...and Merry Christmas to you and your family too Rusty. Following this winter we are going to take a look at replacing the furnace. I have started doing research on the Infinity interested in knowing is this unit can be mounted horizontally?

Too bad you don't work out of the Pacific Northwest...


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi caseywa

The Infinity frunace is a multipoise furnace. A good installer can put one back in place of your old one without much trouble. Look into the complete Infinity system and I will bet you will be amazed. Make sure you get the Infinity control when you purchase your new system to get all the benefits of it. Just wanted to let you know this will be one of the last post I make. I am tired of arguing with acefurnacefixer, I am having them close my account. But I will stay active until I have answered all the questions that you guys that I have subscibed to answered. And thank you very much for your belief in me.

Good luck
Rusty


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Rusty...I believe in you. I wish you would stay because you have so much to offer. You always have a suggestion of substance and not a "just because" kind of answer. I submit some of my posts hoping that others can learn from my mistakes or my discoveries. I am smart enough to separate the wheat from the chaff.

In my professional work for the last 28 years I deal with hostile and confrontational individuals (not my co-workers, but the "clientele" on a daily basis...and frankly I find it entertaining.

Please give it a little thought to continue hanging around...either way, you have earned my respect.

...and call me Casey, the wa is for Washington.


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## Aziza007 (Dec 6, 2010)

Carrierman, I have the same Fasco inducer blower 7021-3136 that wasn't working due to broken fan blades being stuck in the unit. I took them off and reinstall the unit. The motor is working fine but no heat. The pilot has no fire and the cannot be lighted but automatically. I checked the gas lines to make sure they on the on position. Thank you for your response.

Aziza007


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## SKIP4661 (Dec 3, 2008)

Will probably have to replace the fan. Suspect it is not evacuating the combustion chamber properly to close the pressure switch. May want to start a new thread as this one is 4 years old.:thumbsup:


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## Aziza007 (Dec 6, 2010)

*Skip*

I will start a new topic. Thanks SKIP


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