# Dryer hookup mystery!



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

TracyB1970 said:


> I bought a used Whirlpool dryer from a pawn shop for $25. They said it wasn't working but all it needed was a sensor. I took it home and tested all the fuses and thermostats with a multi-meter and they all seemed to be fine so I decided to hook it up to see what happened since they didn't tell me what it was doing that made them believe it needed a fuse(did it not turn on at all? not get hot?? Anyways it had a 3 prong cord on it and I only have a 4 prong outlet so I took the 50 amp 4 prong cord off of my stove and hooked it up wrong. I didn't know it was wrong at the time but I found out right after I hooked it up. Anyways I didn't know what to do with the ground and neutral wires so I hooked up the red, white, and black to the bar on the back of the dryer like normal but I hooked up the white wire coming from inside the dryer with the green ground from the cord to the green screw. When I turned on the dryer to see what was wrong with it, it turned on and worked perfectly fine. I have no electrical training at all so I don't know what's going on. I do live in a very old mobile home and I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring was out of date. I'm going to check the outlet and see if its hooked up right, or at least see if the red and black wires are hot like they're supposed to be. But is there anything else I should know or check.


The blue text make me wary of even replying to this one. But for the sake of anyone else hooking up a dryer pigtail, I will reply. 

From my experience, Pawn shops do not buy non-working appliances. If they did, their stores would be full to the rafters in no time with non working appliances. Maybe the OP has found a rare Pawn shop though, that buys junk or maybe do not bother to even test the appliances they buy.

I see the pigtail was hooked up wrong, but the dryer still ran o.k.in the end. No sure how the OP did this. A 50 amp 4 wire range pigtail cord will not fit in a 4 -wire 30 amp dryer receptacle (unless the old dryer was powered with a 4 wire 50 amp power supply, which is not correct)

There is no reason for anyone to connect the dryers white conductor to the dryers green grounding conductor. The dryer's power supply terminal bar has a place to put the dryer's white wire on to it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

So remove the strap between ground and white. Check the size of the breaker and the wire gauge.
Is there a white wire in the outlet box?


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

I think Tracy's pulling someones chain.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

Pulling someones chain? I wouldn't waste my time registering an acct just to play games like that.The guy at the pawn shop said it worked when they got it. Of course they wouldn't buy non-working appliances. And I don't know whats up with the blue text. To me its only blue in that first reply. Anyways I checked the breaker and it's 40 Amps. And as for the 50 amp cord, it has four prongs. Diamond shape with a round one on top and the other three all just straight connections parallel to eachother. And once I realized the white wire from the dryer was hooked up wrong I put it in the middle spot with the white from the cord and it wouldn't turn on, although I could hear the motor in the timer turning. So I put it back the wrong way and dried a load of laundry and it worked fine. There's no strap but there is a white wire obviously that I hooked up with the green wire out of ignorance. I guess since that's the same as a strap then its probably called the strap? I just checked the outlet and its 245 volts on both sides. Nothing on the top or bottom. I can unhook the "strap"from the connector bar but I don't think it's going to work when I do and I'm not sure how easy it's going to be to hook it back up to get it to work again. If it was just me I'd leave it and just use caution drying laundry but I have a 16 year old son and I don't want this thing lit up with him around. Although I'd keep the breaker off when I wasn't using it. Ill see how easy it's gonna be to unhook the strap and see if itll still work and let you all know. Thanks for the replies and I can assure you I'm not a chain puller.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

Oh and I used some adhesive to stick the outlet box to the wall because it was broken so I don't know what the wires look like inside. But seeing as the volts are adding up right Id guess that its correct. The cord came off of my oven. I don't know what type its "supposed to have", just what it does have. By the way from my description is it a 50Amp cord? Thanks again for the replies.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

TracyB1970 said:


> Pulling someones chain? I wouldn't waste my time registering an acct just to play games like that.The guy at the pawn shop said it worked when they got it. Of course they wouldn't buy non-working appliances. And I don't know whats up with the blue text. To me its only blue in that first reply. Anyways I checked the breaker and it's 40 Amps. And as for the 50 amp cord, it has four prongs. Diamond shape with a round one on top and the other three all just straight connections parallel to eachother. And once I realized the white wire from the dryer was hooked up wrong I put it in the middle spot with the white from the cord and it wouldn't turn on, although I could hear the motor in the timer turning. So I put it back the wrong way and dried a load of laundry and it worked fine. There's no strap but there is a white wire obviously that I hooked up with the green wire out of ignorance. I guess since that's the same as a strap then its probably called the strap? I just checked the outlet and its 245 volts on both sides. Nothing on the top or bottom. I can unhook the "strap"from the connector bar but I don't think it's going to work when I do and I'm not sure how easy it's going to be to hook it back up to get it to work again. If it was just me I'd leave it and just use caution drying laundry but I have a 16 year old son and I don't want this thing lit up with him around. Although I'd keep the breaker off when I wasn't using it. Ill see how easy it's gonna be to unhook the strap and see if itll still work and let you all know. Thanks for the replies and I can assure you I'm not a chain puller.


 The strap is there for when you had a three prong plug there was no white. The outlet should be 30 amp but if it is 50 it will work with matching cord.
Test each side of the outlet to each of the other holes. You should get 120 volts reading on all four tests. Perhaps you do not have a white in there.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Huh ? Got me confused now Neal. 40 amp for a dryer circuit ? Must be in the big north woods, not so down here in the lower states. 

A electric clothes dryer with its nameplate rating of 5400 watts divided by 240 = 22.5 amps total load. So even if the dryer gets rated as continuous load its 22.5 amps x 125% = 28.126 circuit = 30 amp OC. protection. Right or wrong ?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Huh ? Got me confused now Neal. 40 amp for a dryer circuit ? Must be in the big north woods, not so down here in the lower states.
> 
> A electric clothes dryer with its nameplate rating of 5400 watts divided by 240 = 22.5 amps total load. So even if the dryer gets rated as continuous load its 22.5 amps x 125% = 28.126 circuit = 30 amp OC. protection. Right or wrong ?


 My mistake my head was saying 30 and my fingers weren't paying attention to it.


Thank you.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

the outlet is normally for my stove. its the only 240 volt outlet I have so I'm using it. Its not made for a dryer.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

I even had to hook my 220 water heater up to 110. Works fine tho.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

TracyB1970 said:


> the outlet is normally for my stove. its the only 240 volt outlet I have so I'm using it. Its not made for a dryer.


 So you are just testing it with the stove plug?


Do the test and see if you are getting 120 volts between each side and ground and each side and white, you don't have to take it outlet apart.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

..................:001_unsure: 'bout all this.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

I did that. Its 122-123 on each side with top and bottom.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

I have the wire from the strap hooked up with my green ground. It wouldn't work when hooked up with the neutral cord wire. Do you think it will be any different if I don't have it hooked up at all? I don't know if this is confusing for you guys but it is for me. I guess that's why I'm here. Can I post pictures on here? That might be easier than trying to explain stuff I don't understand.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

Nealtw I will probably see if I can get a splitter and get another plug of the same type since that's the only outlet I have that's 220. then I can use them both on the same plug without having to pull them out and swap the cord every time. If I knew how to wire another outlet I would do that but I don't.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

I looked on the whirlpool website and I'm not using one of the two recommended cords,But it does say this"The power supply cord may be incorrectly installed. If the power cord is incorrectly installed, it still could cause the dryer to tumble and/or the lights to come on, but will not heat. Review the Installation Instructions to check that the power supply cord is properly installed" So it says that if I have the cord installed incorrectly it"will not heat." My dryer is working fine with the neutral dryer wire connected to the green ground wire and without removing the strap wire. I didn't remove the strap because I think I'd have to cut the wire and I don't want to have to figure out how I would reconnect it if it didn't solve my problem. But like the whirlpool site said, if it was installed incorrectly it wouldn't heat. It may not be properly grounded but I think it's improperly grounded. Ill just keep it disconnected when I'm not using it. At least until I figure another way. Maybe a different four pronged cord would make it behave differently but I don't know how it could. The wires would still be going to the same places. Just different shaped prongs and a different diameter cord. Right?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

OK You have a dryer that only works when wired a little off normal, which may or may not be a symptom of a bigger problem and now you are going to run on a bigger breaker than it needs. 
Most times the breaker is sized to the wire in the wall to protect the wire from burning.
But on a stove or dryer a problem can turn into a fire real fast and an oversized breaker would just prolong the time a fire can go before the breaker trips.


I would not and you should not do what you are planning on doing.
I think you need a 30 breaker and proper size wire to a 30 amp outlet with a thirty amp cord.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

yeah Ill get it right hopefully sooner than later. I have a few more things to try before I give up. I watched a video that showed how to go through the graph on the paper that's inside the dryer by the timer to narrow down the problem. Also I'm going to call whirlpool and see if have any suggestions. If I would have hooked it up right in the first place I never would have known it worked if hooked up wrong. I'm definitely going to keep it unplugged until I get it going right. Thanks a lot for helping me trying to fix it. I'll let you guys know what it was when I figure it out. Have a great night!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

TracyB1970 said:


> yeah Ill get it right hopefully sooner than later. I have a few more things to try before I give up. I watched a video that showed how to go through the graph on the paper that's inside the dryer by the timer to narrow down the problem. Also I'm going to call whirlpool and see if have any suggestions. If I would have hooked it up right in the first place I never would have known it worked if hooked up wrong. I'm definitely going to keep it unplugged until I get it going right. Thanks a lot for helping me trying to fix it. I'll let you guys know what it was when I figure it out. Have a great night!


 Some one has repaired it and wired it wrong could be the timer. the motor the heater. I am not sure I would touch it and a screw on a switch plate at the same time.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

TracyB1970 said:


> I bought a used Whirlpool dryer from a pawn shop for $25. They said it wasn't working but all it needed was a sensor.
> 
> I took it home and tested all the fuses and thermostats with a multi-meter and they all seemed to be fine so I decided to hook it up to see what happened since they didn't tell me what it was doing that made them believe it needed a fuse(did it not turn on at all? not get hot?
> 
> ...


I'm confused...as to the confusion.... or else i don't fully understand what you wrote.

Clearly you are on too big a breaker....that is a safety issue... but should be no operational problem.

You may have a bootleg/bastard ground or maybe not. If a bootleg, you have a safety issue also... but not an operational issue,

You say you found a white wire coming out of the dryer.... I am assuming you also saw a white wire on the terminal connection bar when you attached your four wire appliance chord.

That white wire coming out of the dryer, may be your ground and you have hooked it up correctly to the bare or green wire in your supply chord.

Or it might be your primary neutral wire that should be on your neutral terminal that you hooked up to the appliance cord. In which case, you have a safety issue.

Do you have a multi-meter with a continuity test on it.... if so, anyone here will tell you how to test. Just ask.

Regardless,,, you have potential SAFETY issues involved, and although the appliance is currently working, you do need to test and correct as necessary your hook-up.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

I'm going back over the components and double checking them all. I was testing a four connection operating temperature thermostat. Should both sets show continuity? The inner taller thinner ones aren't giving me a beep but the wider shorter ones are. I don't know if this would keep the dryer from turning on if it was bad. Or if it's bad, would hooking the dryer up incorrectly make it work when it shouldn't. Maybe if its bad it keeps the power from getting to something that turns it on, but hooking the neutral to groung somehow goes around and powers it anyway? Is that understandable?


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## geno2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Hi Tracy,

It sounds like at least one of the issues that you are having involves the difference between a three wire, and four wire, power cord.

Each of these has a red and a black wire. These, between them, carry 240 V.

The third wire on the three wire cord is combined neutral and ground. Years ago, this met code, modern installations require separate wires for these, hence the four wire cable.

The red to black, to each other, provide 240 V. Either the red, or the black, going to the white provide 120 V.

The heating elements in a dryer run on 240 V. The motor, light bulb, timer may be only 120 V.

So what does all this mean practically? If the dryer had a three wire set up, there is a wire or strap between the white wires connection, and the ground connection. As mentioned above, older installations used one wire for both the neutral and ground.

If you are running this dryer on the four wire set up, which is desirable, then this "jumper" between the white and neutral should be removed, and the appropriate wire connected to each accordingly.

However, none of the above should affect how the dryer actually runs, it's strictly safety. This gets technical, the ground wire, a "safety" wire, should not actually carry current.



As one of the other posters mentioned, if you continue running this on a 50 amp circuit breaker, you lose some safety protection, so it would be best, long-term, to have this on a 30 amp breaker.

I hope of some of the above has been helpful.

Gene


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

I am not usually like this on the forum. #1 Never buy a used unplugged dryer from a pawn shop. #2 Make sure you have all the right material before even attempting to hook it up if you didn't follow my advice from #1. # 3 Don't ever guess with electric. #4 If you don't know don't do it FYI or not. #5 Sounds like your caught up in a undertow you can't get out of. #6 Sometimes we can'i do all the things we think we can. #7 Buy the proper size wire, breaker, plug and hook it up properly if you have to. #8 Then troubleshoot the appliance. #9 Good luck and I hate to sound so harsh but it sounds like you needed it.


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## TracyB1970 (Jun 24, 2018)

I do appreciate your advice and if I could afford to follow all them rules I would. But for now my kid has clean clothes. Seems to me this should have a simple solution. Does anyone know about the cycling thermostat with four connectors(2 pairs of wires)? Should both pairs have continuity? Because only one does. If they're both supposed to then that could be my problem. Thanks.


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