# How to mount outside light on metal garage



## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

I planned to use a motion detector with the two flood lights centered 
above my garage door. I started cutting thinking I would put a plastic 
box behind the metal siding inside the garage. However, being centered 
it is over a raised rib where two panels meet and it looks like I made 
a mess. It was hard to cut and I just stopped. Any ideas on how to 
properly mount this light and make it look ok and not leak?


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

They sell mounting plates for siding. Might want to get one of these, caulk around the edges, mount over the hole, and mount the electrical box on top of this.

The mounting plates look like this...









More...
(Click on picture for web site)
http://images.google.com/images?hl=...trical siding mount&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi


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## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

What would hold this to the metal siding?


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

It is much more difficult to put the electrical work over a vertical rib in the siding and seal the hole compared with off to the side a little where there is no rib.

The plates shown above can have be bolted on. Metal siding together with such a plate and bolts not too close together should be able to hold a flush mounted fixture without sagging or buckling.

If the wall behind on the inside is accessible, it is convenient to get a junction box with a one inch knockout on its back, and mount that box inside facing in. Then only a one inch hole need be drilled through the siding and through the plate shown above to string wires in from a flush mounted fixture.


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

stryped said:


> What would hold this to the metal siding?


Drill holes then use screws. The screws would go through and past the metal siding into the wood behind it.


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## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

How would I mount a box on top of this? WIll all this look right. I am so frustrated right now but i have already made a cut and am committed.


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## Billy_Bob (Sep 11, 2008)

The electrical box would be exposed, so I would use a weatherproof "outdoor" electrical box.

Basically you don't want water dripping down from the top from where the mounting board would press against the metal siding. So use caulk before mounting the board to the building. This will seal it and keep water from leaking.

Same thing with the electrical box. There would be a hole in the back and a wire going through that hole into the building. Water could seep between the electrical box and the mounting board into that hole. So again use caulk around the back of the electrical box before mounting. (Ask at the hardware store where their caulk is if you aren't familiar with this.)

As to mounting the electrical box to the backing board, there are many ways to do this. I would take the electrical box with me to the hardware store, then get sheet metal screws which would be large enough to fit into the mounting holes.

Then I would get a drill bit of the correct size for those screws. Ask the guy at the hardware store what size drill bit to use for that size screw.

Also get a large drill bit to drill a hole in the mounting board for the wire to go through.

Then I would figure out where the wire would need to go through the back of the electrical box. I would line everything up to see how it would all fit.

Then I would drill a hole in the mounting board for the wire to go through.

Then mount the mounting board to the building (use caulk).

Then place the electrical box on the mounting board so it looked ok, then mark with a pencil where the mounting screws would go.

Then drill the small holes where the mounting screws would go.

Then mount the electrical box using the screws (use caulk).

If you are totally unfamiliar with all this, might want to hire an electrician to do this for you. Then watch what he does. Then you can learn by watching. Not a big job, so the cost would be quite reasonable. Probably just a minimum charge for them to come out plus any materials.

Also you can practice and experiment around with mounting techniques, screws, drill bit sizes, and electrical boxes. Get an assortment of electrical boxes. Get an assortment of different types of screws. Look at the different types of fasteners they have at the hardware store. Get a drill bit set of different sizes.

Then get a small piece of wood and practice mounting the various electrical boxes to the wood. Use different size screws. drill different size holes. See what is the strongest way of mounting the electrical boxes.

And ask at the hardware store. Find someone older. Ask how to do what you want to do. Some of the older guys are quite experienced and can give helpful advice.

If you wanted to mount the light fixture flush to the siding and are now not happy with the way things turned out, you can always have the metal siding replaced and try again. Plenty of options on what you can do!


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## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

Is there a difference between a "wet" location box and an "outdoor" box? The one I bought says wet location, is white with two mounting ears on it for a screws to go through. I think it is metal or aluminum. It has 5 acress points that screw into the sides.


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

These type of boxes are designed for outdoor and wet locations. They are designed to be surface mounted. This is what you should have used and then all you would have had to do was drill a small hole in the back for the cable.
The cover shown is for one lamp holder. You can get up to three.


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## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

That is the box I just bought but it is white. Although, for th elights I have a separate unit because I wanted it motion activated.

Will the motion activatied ones look/fit ok on the box?


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## stryped (Sep 8, 2009)

One more dumb question. I bought galvanized lag screws to screw that box onto some wood behind the corregated metal. Would it be better to have stainless screws?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

stryped said:


> One more dumb question. I bought galvanized lag screws to screw that box onto some wood behind the corregated metal. Would it be better to have stainless screws?


Nope! I use deck screws when I mount this type of box.


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

stryped said:


> That is the box I just bought but it is white. Although, for th elights I have a separate unit because I wanted it motion activated.
> 
> Will the motion activatied ones look/fit ok on the box?


If they will thread onto the box or the box cover, yes. I am not sure how these motion detectors come, so can you take a picture of what you have. All the ones I have seen come as a unit, box, sensor, lamp holder and cover with gasket.


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