# Door lock modulator linkage came apart again



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

You guys just helped me solve that starting problem from the other post recently. Now something else! 92' Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6. I replaced all the electric window and door lock parts inside the driver side door beginning of 2019. All good except for this. The door lock modulator linkage has come apart for the 2nd time.

The problem is this rod has a hooked end that won't stay connected to the other linkage rod. The stupid hook slips out of the plastic keeper/clip. I even bent the rod linkage a little bit and used two plastic keepers. It STILL came loose today and the door knob rod fell into the door cavity. This the second time in less than a year.

Before I remove the door panel and tear up the water shield again, how do I make the door lock modulator linkage stay connected permanently? I'm thinking the solution might be a cable or cotter pin. Any suggestions?


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Zip tie?


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I thought about zip tie too. But I don't think it will work. I'll take the door panel off this weekend. 

The door still locks and unlocks even though the door knob rod fell inside the door cavity. But I don't want to use it to be on the safe side.

The door is in the locked position now. So I do this 'acrobatic' routine which involves climbing over the center console and entering and exiting through the passenger side door.

I'll go to the hardware store to see if I can come up with an improvised fix.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

You can use a actuator keeper and slide it over the rod and it won't come loose again. It's like a small, thin washer that's concave somewhat with a hole and it's slotted to have grip. Or you can use the plastic ones that clip on.:vs_cool:


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Well, the plastic ones aren't working. That's the ongoing problem. The concave washer sounds interesting. But there is no matching slot in the linkage rod end for it to bite into.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

At this time, I only see two different possible solutions for this:

1. Improvising another linkage rod with hole for cotter pin, if I can find one.
2. Soldering or welding some type of fastener at the hooked end to back up the plastic keeper/clip.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)




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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

The flat one is what I'm talking about. They have different sizes. The nuts are self "tapping" and the rod has no threads. The flat one just slides on with a little pressure. The raised part toward the 'outside'. Stines hardware store has them as well as home depot and Lowes. You could use the nuts and put the flat side toward the actuator. Toothpick is size reference.:vs_cool:


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. I understand now, Brain. Thanks for the pictures. I just don't know if it would hold permanently. Have you had good results with these for the same use as mine?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

The flat one is easy to install, almost have to destroy it to remove. Maybe install a small washer before installing. :vs_cool:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I hillbilly engineered a door latch rod and keeper for my Silhouette many years ago. One of my very first DIYs. Used a soccer goal tie down rod, cut it to fit, bent it in a bench vise and use plastic #8 drywall anchors to hold it in place. Worked until the van went to the scrap yard.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Pretty clever, Planx. I looked at online pictures of the parts you improvised, in addition to the ones Brian posted. I have extra linkage parts. I think I'll run a test on both suggestions to see how they hold up


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Sorry for the misspelling.........'Brain' and 'Planz'


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I like the metal retainer clip best..... but also, any chance of threading the end of the rod and a locknut....?????


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Brainbucket said:


> The flat one is easy to install, almost have to destroy it to remove. Maybe install a small washer before installing. :vs_cool:


Use this, it will last longer than your truck, unless you need to work on it again, then you just replace the old one, because you had to mangle it to remove it. 

ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I would say Yes, threading the end of the rod _is _a possibility. The curvature of the hooked end could pose a challenge. 

When you guys say, 'the _flat _one is easy to install', are you referring to the smaller rusted one in the photo with the 6-point hexagonal hole? What it is called, so I know what to look for at the hardware store?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yes, that is the one. 

I have always called it a ROD KEEPER, I'll look it up, and return.


ED 

It appears that you are supposed to use a special plastic clip, that inserts in the hole, then the rod inserts in the hole in the clip, then the clip swivels up to clip the rod securely in the hole.

Is your existing one broken, and you need to get the new one from a dealer. 

or try any aftermarket on line parts store, or NAPA, CHECKER, and the like.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

The special plastic keeper/clips are not working. These already failed twice. That is why I started the thread. But the plastic keeper might work in combination with the flat, raised nut washer.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Dorman linkage clip assortment, all metal:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-41017...kage+retainer&qid=1567819858&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Love all those Dorman assortments.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Those metal swivel clips in the first picture of the Dorman link, is what ford used before they went to the plastic ones. 

Early 60's , for you "kids", that have never seen them.

That is what I would use, to permanently stop this event. 

Your Arizona heat is just rotting the plastic, in there.

The plastic gets brittle in the heat, cracks, and falls out. 

ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hmmm.............................I find the ones in the Amazon link promising. I like how they have metal clips with the rod holes.I assume the clips latch onto the rod.


Not only the Arizona heat, Ed. But I suspect the fit is slightly out of spec on the aftermarket plastic ones.And that is why the rod won't stay in the keeper hole.


This weekend, I'm just going to take the door panel off and look for this hardware you guys have showed me. Nice suggestions!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I used to get a Dorman assortment kit, at a REAL auto parts store, not wal-mart auto section, a REAL parts store.

Yes the metal ones will do the job, you align the holes over the hole of the latch, insert the rod through the three holes, and swivel the clip over the rod, to click tight. 

Won't decay, might be a bit loose, but will stay clipped on and installed where it belongs.



ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I went to a couple hardware stores today. I couldn't find the exact flat washer nut in Brain's photo.
I did buy something called a cap nut. Looks like a little hat. You can press it on with your fingers. It has these little metal tabs that bite into the rod when you try to pull it off. I also have a different style of plastic keeper for car door linkage. I can probably use both of these together. I'll still look for the flat metal retainer pictured in this discussion.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Hardware stores will not have those, I repeat A REAL AUTO PARTS STORE. 

:devil3::devil3:


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. I went to the auto parts store this morning. I now have an assortment of both plastic door lock rod clips and flat metal push nuts. I'll follow-up next weekend..


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

None of the metal push nuts fit the rod. So I used a different type of plastic rod clip/keeper. This one has a clip that latches onto the rod. And I'm guessing it has an opposite force to keep the rod end pushed into the keeper hole.


Hopefully this will hold for a very long time. I'll probably leave the door trim panel off for six months and I'll just patch up the hole I cut in the water shield. If it comes apart again, I'll thread the rod end and use a nut


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Those plastic swivel clips, have little bumps on the part that sticks into the receiver hole, then the rod, holds them expanded enough that it stays put. 

So just use " duct tape, or packing tape to cover the hole that you cut in the paper, and install the decorative cover.

You should be done.



ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

When I replaced the driver side power door/window parts this past January, I fashioned a water shield from a shower curtain liner. I'll just use the leftover material and adhesive to patch the hole I opened. I guess we can consider this resolved.Thanks


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