# Bracing Stud Walls of Shed



## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Not a pro on this but some comments. Running the bracing on a diagonal is kind of in the way. As an alternative consider corner braces all the way around like a post and beam structure. What you have looks fine and replacing the diagonals with the shorter corner braces should look better and function fine.

I also like to utilize the stud cavities by installing a lot of cross braces. All of those little shelves sure get filled quickly and things are neater and easier to find.

Good job

Bud


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Bud9051 said:


> Not a pro on this but some comments. Running the bracing on a diagonal is kind of in the way. As an alternative consider corner braces all the way around like a post and beam structure. What you have looks fine and replacing the diagonals with the shorter corner braces should look better and function fine.
> 
> I also like to utilize the stud cavities by installing a lot of cross braces. All of those little shelves sure get filled quickly and things are neater and easier to find.
> 
> ...


What do you think about the metal cladding Bud? Because it's not flat, it could maybe concertina if subjected to compression or tensile forces. I had a look on another thread and a suggestion was made to use wall strap bracing. I could probably use 1 1/2 x 1/4 inch flat iron (40 x 6mm)? Another suggestion was to use sheets of 1/2 inch plywood, just on the corners.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

I have only done a little steel roofing and they cautioned that the metal was not adequate for structural. However that was a 4,000 ft² box 16' high, still standing. We opted to sheathe the roof in 5/8" then the metal. For a shed that small I don't see a big issue.

I've seen cables used on large metal buildings but all of the suggestion you listed would work. 

The highest risk occurs during construction once up it becomes an assembly and is much stronger. IMO, if you feel more comfortable then add more bracing.

Bud


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

I can't see how you tied the rafters to the top plate but I like the twisted metal hurricane brackets. 

Bud


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Bud9051 said:


> I can't see how you tied the rafters to the top plate but I like the twisted metal hurricane brackets.
> 
> Bud


I skew nailed the 6 x 2s on both sides to the top plate and for added measure, also tied every second one with metal banding, not probably what's recommended, but this stuff is fairly heavy gauge, I think used for general purpose strapping. I might tie all the other rafters also. We never get hurricanes, top wind speed is probably 50 mph with maybe 80 to 90 mph gusts.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

The Simpson brackets pictured in link below are popular over here, note the number of nail holes and they recommend heavy duty nails.
https://hardwareonlinestore.com/ind...uy&ppcstrkid=1332290283&ppcsu=xhg7f5djqitnahs

Bud


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

You do want to have diagonal bracing since you don't have plywood for shear strength. It can be 1x4 let in to the studs, or even metal L profile which you just run your saw through the studs to the depth of the flange. 
Wind is more powerful than you think and bracing is cheap and easy to put in.


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> You do want to have diagonal bracing since you don't have plywood for shear strength. It can be 1x4 let in to the studs, or even metal L profile which you just run your saw through the studs to the depth of the flange.
> Wind is more powerful than you think and bracing is cheap and easy to put in.


I can probably get angle iron locally, not 'L' profile though. Might be tricky notching the studs for 1x4 because of the horizontal members half way up the wall and coinciding with the points where they're nailed. Also the bottom plate would be awkward to chop out . Also notching the 2 x 4s makes them 2 x 3s, so they're now effectively weakened? How about just using 1/2 inch plywood on the corners (from bottom plate to top plate. Or if I use the 2 x 1 1/2s without recessing flush, and use heavy lag screws or bolts for shear strength? I can't fix anything to the corner stud, because I doubled up and it sticks out beyond the other studs in the wall.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Would have been easier and quicker to sheet it.
Draw a line from the top of the wall to the bottom of the wall at the other end.
Cut and install 2x4s to fit between studs on that line. It does not matter if they are flat or on edges, remove braces.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

If you want to use plywood I don't think it has to be in the corner, any stud bay (or 2) on each wall would provide strength. You could add a 4' sheet covering two bays and use it to hang tools. Using plywood and then making use of the plywood makes more sense to my conservative mind.

Bud


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Would have been easier and quicker to sheet it.
> Draw a line from the top of the wall to the bottom of the wall at the other end.
> Cut and install 2x4s to fit between studs on that line. It does not matter if they are flat or on edges, remove braces.


Ok, so the 2x4s would be bracing by catering for a compressive force (not acting as ties). If I only use 1 2x4 cut up into sections, that would only brace for wind coming from one end. I would really need to make a V like I've done on the end wall. The left brace is for wind from the left, and the right brace is for wind from the right, the force transmitted down into the floor.


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Bud9051 said:


> If you want to use plywood I don't think it has to be in the corner, any stud bay (or 2) on each wall would provide strength. You could add a 4' sheet covering two bays and use it to hang tools. Using plywood and then making use of the plywood makes more sense to my conservative mind.
> 
> Bud


I beginning to think that's the way I'll go about it. Just pushes the cost up again though. I'm nearly up to €1500 at this stage (about $1750), but that includes everything down to the last detail. It's amazing how all the small stuff adds up!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Eugbug said:


> Ok, so the 2x4s would be bracing by catering for a compressive force (not acting as ties). If I only use 1 2x4 cut up into sections, that would only brace for wind coming from one end. I would really need to make a V like I've done on the end wall. The left brace is for wind from the left, and the right brace is for wind from the right, the force transmitted down into the floor.


When we stood up walls in new construction we braced one way and never gave a thought to which way the wind was blowing. I derection is enough, but help your self:vs_cool:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

You can do an X brace with about 3 bucks worth of 10 gauge wire and four _twitches_. Momentarily pretend you are a rancher and building a fence brace that's to hold hundreds of pounds of tension.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Keep in mind that the worst wind problem would be from wind on the front where the door is.

You will have POSITIVE pressure on the front and SUCTION on the sides, back AND the roof. - Just in case you fall into the details possible.

Dick


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

@Eugbug


> It's amazing how all the small stuff adds up!


I've helped a bunch of people build sheds and they are all amazed at the total cost. When I look at the discount store pre-made sheds I just know they had to cut every corner to make any profit and pay everyone inbetween. Now scale that up to building a house and the numbers explode.

But building your own comes with a lot of personal satisfaction and a few extra steps up the learning curve.

Bud


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

SeniorSitizen said:


> You can do an X brace with about 3 bucks worth of 10 gauge wire and four _twitches_. Momentarily pretend you are a rancher and building a fence brace that's to hold hundreds of pounds of tension.



LOL! What's a "twitch"?


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Bud9051 said:


> @*Eugbug*
> I've helped a bunch of people build sheds and they are all amazed at the total cost. When I look at the discount store pre-made sheds I just know they had to cut every corner to make any profit and pay everyone inbetween. Now scale that up to building a house and the numbers explode.
> 
> But building your own comes with a lot of personal satisfaction and a few extra steps up the learning curve.
> ...


Yes it does bring a great sense of satisfaction! I've probably over 35 years of experience since a teenager making things, but this is my first shed build. I probably went over the top as regards accuracy being a perfectionist though. Other people would have something similar built in a small fraction of the time!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Eugbug said:


> LOL! What's a "twitch"?


Here some one made a machine for twitching.


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Bud9051 said:


> @*Eugbug*
> I've helped a bunch of people build sheds and they are all amazed at the total cost. When I look at the discount store pre-made sheds I just know they had to cut every corner to make any profit and pay everyone inbetween. Now scale that up to building a house and the numbers explode.
> 
> But building your own comes with a lot of personal satisfaction and a few extra steps up the learning curve.
> ...


Yes it does bring a great sense of satisfaction! I've probably over 35 years of experience since a teenager making things, but this is my first shed build. I probably went over the top as regards accuracy being a perfectionist though. Other people would have something similar built in a small fraction of the time!

I built the door from 1x2 box and inlaid with scraps of 2x4, a great way of using them up. I added a box onto the bolt to shield the lock. The door weighs about 10 stone and was a pain in the ass to hang, getting all the hinges lined up.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

:vs_cool:You might need extra angle brace to counter the weight of the door.


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> :vs_cool:You might need extra angle brace to counter the weight of the door.


I used two 4 x 2s nailed together for the king stud/jack stud. I was worried about the studs flexing with the weight and the edge of the door hitting the frame on the non-hinged side. Since the door was made of box iron and the studs were lined with sheet metal, I wouldn't be able to do any planing. Also the gap between door and frame was less than 1/4". I ran into problems before when hanging two driveway gates. Had them all setup with shims and blocks of wood underneath and bolted the hinges onto the timber gates. When the blocks of wood underneath were removed, both girders bent over at the top about a 1/4 inch and the gates ended up sticking in the middle and wouldn't close. So I had to move the hinges on the girders and do lots of planing! For this door, when I had the lower half inlaid with boards, I hung it and added a 4 stone weight on the top to see whether there would be any movement of the studs.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Eugbug said:


> I used two 4 x 2s nailed together for the king stud/jack stud. I was worried about the studs flexing with the weight and the edge of the door hitting the frame on the non-hinged side. Since the door was made of box iron and the studs were lined with sheet metal, I wouldn't be able to do any planing. Also the gap between door and frame was less than 1/4". I ran into problems before when hanging two driveway gates. Had them all setup with shims and blocks of wood underneath and bolted the hinges onto the timber gates. When the blocks of wood underneath were removed, both girders bent over at the top about a 1/4 inch and the gates ended up sticking in the middle and wouldn't close. So I had to do move the hinges on the girders and do lots of planing! For this door, when I had the lower half inlaid with boards, I hung it and added a 4 stone weight on the top to see whether there would be any movement of the studs.


I am thinking a stone is 20 lbs.
I would leave a 2x4 brace on the short wall with the door hinge from the hinge area to the lower corner of the wall. That weight will make anything sag over time.:vs_cool:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Twitch sticks twist a double strand of wire to create tension. For easier adjustment I prefer a short pipe nipple for a twitch that a longer smaller pipe nipple will slide through to do the twisting for tensioning.

I suspect I was mistaken when i said you would need 4 twitches when you would probably need only 1 twitch for each wire of the X.

In construction the twitch ( tension wires ) could be run through the center of the studs on the appropriate angle by boring a hole bout 1/4" diameter..

First pic is copied from Montana State University and second pic showing an X brace post twitch that's from someone's cow pasture.


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> I am thinking a stone is 20 lbs.
> I would leave a 2x4 brace on the short wall with the door hinge from the hinge area to the lower corner of the wall. That weight will make anything sag over time.:vs_cool:


Our stones (well we're metric now) are 14 pounds, aren't they the same in Canada? The imperial hundredweight is 112 pounds and the US hundredweight is 100 pounds.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

A single strand of wire can also be tensioned with a claw hammer. No twitch needed.

https://www.google.com/search?q=streatching+fence+with+a+claw+hammer&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#kpvalbx=1


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

Eugbug said:


> Also notching the 2 x 4s makes them 2 x 3s, so they're now effectively weakened?


Yes, but you're not building a second and third story on top so you'll have more than enough strength. Besides, the 1x4 that's let in gives some of that strength back. This was a very common technique before sheetgoods were around.



Eugbug said:


> How about just using 1/2 inch plywood on the corners (from bottom plate to top plate.


Yep. That'll work. 



Eugbug said:


> Or if I use the 2 x 1 1/2s without recessing flush, and use heavy lag screws or bolts for shear strength?


Less ideal since now you'll have something sticking out from the plane of the wall. 

Plywood in the corners is probably your best bet here.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Eugbug said:


> Our stones (well we're metric now) are 14 pounds, aren't they the same in Canada? The imperial hundredweight is 112 pounds and the US hundredweight is 100 pounds.


I have not heard any one use stone or hundredweight here or the USA but I have heard the terms. Canada has also gone metric for most thing, not all.
We still build houses in feet and inches.:vs_cool:


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> Yes, but you're not building a second and third story on top so you'll have more than enough strength. Besides, the 1x4 that's let in gives some of that strength back. This was a very common technique before sheetgoods were around.
> 
> 
> Yep. That'll work.
> ...


So the plywood is delivered, and I'm going to use 2" inch round wire nails for fixing (I think these are equivalent to 8d common nails). From doing some research, I've discovered that the recommended nail spacing is 6". If the edge of the plywood falls on the centre of a stud, (which it will do if studs are 24" oc), how far in from the edge should I position the nails? Midway between the edge of the plywood and edge of the stud underneath? Since studs are 2" (actually 1 3/4"), overlap of ply and stud is 7/8", so that would put the nails 7/16" in from edge. Is that ok?


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## Eugbug (Dec 20, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> I have not heard any one use stone or hundredweight here or the USA but I have heard the terms. Canada has also gone metric for most thing, not all.
> We still build houses in feet and inches.:vs_cool:


We've been metric for probably 25 years or more. However I still think of imperial measurements and when measuring something/cutting, I use whichever measurement is most convenient.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Eugbug said:


> We've been metric for probably 25 years or more. However I still think of imperial measurements and when measuring something/cutting, I use whichever measurement is most convenient.


The best here is liquid because the us gallon is only 128 ounces and quart are only 32 ounces. Then we went metric and they sell us stuff that says it is 3.79 liters. I don't know what I am getting half the time.:vs_no_no_no:


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