# Drywall project: New basement bathroom



## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

use the longest sheet you need so you don't have butt joints. if you 

need 11'2 buy a 12 foot sheet. yes ceiling first then you can butt the top 

wall pieces up tight against it. for 16" centers you can 1/2" on the ceiling 

and on the walls. do not use drywall around the shower under the tile 

unless you plan to cover it with kerdi or similar. 1/2 cement board with 

waterproofing will work also. moisture resistant does not mean 

waterproof.


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## NetTractorTalk (Mar 24, 2012)

Thanks Danny. That helps. I have a prefab shower already in place. Not using tile. How about the glue and screw vs nails info please.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If you use glue (it will say dry wall adhesive right on the tube) you can use less screws so there's less patching to do and there's less chance of screw pops and saging.

Screws hold far better then nails.
You can buy a bit that will set the screws just below the surface that will fit in your drill for a few bucks.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...93E1C613E216F467CD20426856A08774175E7&first=1


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

One tip I would give is since this is a bathroom in a basement, on the bottom sheet I would leave about a 1/2" gap between the floor and the bottom of that sheet, just in case of overflow of shower, toilet, or sink, it won't be able to wick up in the drywall. And your baseboard will hide it.


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## NetTractorTalk (Mar 24, 2012)

Great tips guys. Thank you!!!!!!! I'm finishing up the electric side of things and then I'll be ready to get started with the dry wall. Looking things over closer tonight I notice that for the extreme shower that we put in (3 different shower heads) we had to put one 3/4 piece of copper below the joist for all to fit as I needed it. At the time I was thinking I'd go with a drop ceiling. I have since changed my mind but now I have a 3/4 piece of copper with a saddle holding it to the joist right over the shower. I hate to drop the entire ceiling by enough to clear the copper. Plus I do need an access point in that general area to get to shut off valves that are in the ceiling. 
How would you solve a problem like this. I can get a pic if that would help.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> One tip I would give is since this is a bathroom in a basement, on the bottom sheet I would leave about a 1/2" gap between the floor and the bottom of that sheet, just in case of overflow of shower, toilet, or sink, it won't be able to wick up in the drywall. And your baseboard will hide it.


This is a must! Particularly for a basment.
This will also help with carpet installation if you choose to put carpet down.


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## NetTractorTalk (Mar 24, 2012)

Yep, I agree Subline2. :agree: I will be sure to do just that. 

My current dilemma is the 3/4" copper pipe that was hung below the joist. I don't want to lower the entire ceiling by an inch, but I'll need to in the area over the tub. Looking for ideas on how to get past this issue. 
How would you tie the two different heights together. I would probably just lower the part over the tub. But hoping for other insights.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

Can you run the pipe through the joist and re-attach it using sharkbites.no need to solder/ sweat pipes.


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## NetTractorTalk (Mar 24, 2012)

sublime2 said:


> Can you run the pipe through the joist and re-attach it using sharkbites.no need to solder/ sweat pipes.


Not sure. I'll take a pic tonight and post it. It has a T that is also under the joist ...but if possible to raise that would be the best solution. I don't mind sweating joints but sharkbites do come in handy for sure. thanks for the thought.


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## NetTractorTalk (Mar 24, 2012)

I found a pic of the mess, it reminded me I also have a gas line to deal with.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

It looks like the pipe directly above the low one is dead if it is cut it out and run the other pipe true the hole in the joist.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

NetTractorTalk said:


> I found a pic of the mess, it reminded me I also have a gas line to deal with.


I see you have already done some framing to the left.
It may be easier to add some 1x2 to the joist with the pipe and just lower the ceiling in that area.
There is a pipe below the gas line that is also below the joist,not an issue?
As for that shut off valve, they sell access panels that are not very noticeable that attach to the rock ( liquid nails) to give you future access to that shutoff.


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## NetTractorTalk (Mar 24, 2012)

Toolseeker, no dead / empty or unused pipes in the pic. All carry water to somewhere. I have three shower fixtures / controls plumbed for this shower. Seemed like a neat idea and drawing the plumbing out on paper was a breeze. Actually installing it got a bit trickier. I have two fixtures at one end and one fixture at the opposite end. Lots of pipes going every which direction. Ran most in 3/4 so volume would be there for each fixture.

Sublime, that is what I have been thinking, add 1 x2's to the bottom of the joists to attach the drywall to. I'm thinking of just doing the drop over the tub itself. So I would have a 1" board showing / outlining the tub. Considering putting tile there to match the tile that will be on the step into the shower, and the frame face at the bottom of the shower. Seems like that would work. 
Does that sound feasible and like a good idea to you guys? What am I missing?


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

NetTractorTalk said:


> Toolseeker, no dead / empty or unused pipes in the pic. All carry water to somewhere. I have three shower fixtures / controls plumbed for this shower. Seemed like a neat idea and drawing the plumbing out on paper was a breeze. Actually installing it got a bit trickier. I have two fixtures at one end and one fixture at the opposite end. Lots of pipes going every which direction. Ran most in 3/4 so volume would be there for each fixture.
> 
> Sublime, that is what I have been thinking, add 1 x2's to the bottom of the joists to attach the drywall to. I'm thinking of just doing the drop over the tub itself. So I would have a 1" board showing / outlining the tub. Considering putting tile there to match the tile that will be on the step into the shower, and the frame face at the bottom of the shower. Seems like that would work.
> Does that sound feasible and like a good idea to you guys? What am I missing?


Sounds like a plan to me.
Pics when you finish!


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Drop it in the tub area and work it into the design is a great idea.

I like to be up off the floor more then 1 inch in a basement. Keep drywall up 1.5 to 2" as long as baseboard will cover, pout 2" of styrofoam in bottoms of wall between studs, glue in place and glue drywall to it on bottom edge. So moisture can not wick up insulation. Fill behind baseboard with 1/2" treated plywood strip.


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