# Plugging screw holes in asphalt shingle roof



## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

If it doesn’t leak ... might want to remove the dish and brackets, but leave the mounting plates in place until the next time the shingles are replaced. You could give it a quick spray with paint to make it less obvious.


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

shawnc said:


> The previous owner of the house we bought a couple of years ago had DISH satellite TV service, and even though we don't subscribe to that, the dish itself is still on the roof. Not only is it located close to the front of the house, but it's beginning to rust and is a bit of an eyesore; so I plan to take it down. From what I can tell, the base and struts are screwed into the roof through the shingles and it looks like the installer used some sort of thick exterior caulk (see photo). My question is: is it enough to use some similar caulk to reseal it on the root surface or do I need to get underneath the shingles and patch the hole thru each layer? And what sort of caulk/sealer should be used? Thanks in advance!
> 
> View attachment 634538


Get a couple pieces of flat metal,pull the screws out and shove the metal under the shingle,high enough to cover the screw holes. Bit of caulking underneath to glue it back in.


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## RRH (Nov 24, 2016)

I would start with a piece of metal. Trim coil or even a piece of step flashing from the box store cut flat. About 6" x 6"
Then





Sashco - 14010 Through The Roof Sealant, 10.5 oz Cartridge, Clear (Pack of 1): Adhesive Caulk: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


Sashco - 14010 Through The Roof Sealant, 10.5 oz Cartridge, Clear (Pack of 1): Adhesive Caulk: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific



www.amazon.com





Remove the bracket . Squirt caulk all the way into holes. Then lift up top shingle and slip in the piece of metal under the holes. Also sealant first on both sides of the metal. 

Should be a quick simple repair.


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

Aluminum under the shingle as mentioned. Then put some roof cement in the holes. Get some roof stones from the gutter and deposit them on the roof cement. Invisible repair.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I like the metal idea! Pure genius. In the past, I've filled the holes with silicone, and then, if you have any shingles left over from when they last did the roof, you can cut a piece to fit over top of the now silicone filled holes to at least make the ugliness disappear. I would just slather the underside of the shingle patch with black roofing cement and push them into place. You can lay a brick or something else heavy on the patch to make sure it bonds tightly to the surface.


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## shawnc (Jan 12, 2017)

Thanks for all the responses! I think adding some aluminum under the shingle is a good idea so I don't have to worry about caulk or sealant wearing down over time. And adding some of the shingle "grit" from the gutter is a great idea!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

shawnc said:


> Thanks for all the responses! I think adding some aluminum under the shingle is a good idea so I don't have to worry about caulk or sealant wearing down over time. And adding some of the shingle "grit" from the gutter is a great idea!


Have a beer first and then cut up the can for the aluminum.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

If it is not leaking do not disturb it. Just loosen that nut and remove the dish, leaving the mounting brackets bolted to the roof.
If the brackets can be seen, paint them a color that blends with the roof.


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## shawnc (Jan 12, 2017)

Missouri Bound said:


> If it is not leaking do not disturb it. Just loosen that nut and remove the dish, leaving the mounting brackets bolted to the roof.
> If the brackets can be seen, paint them a color that blends with the roof.


I had originally considered that (and Half-fast eddie also suggested it above). The only negative of that is the bracket in the photo is holding one of the supporting struts (there are two of them distributing the weight of the dish as it sits at an angle on the roof) and it's significantly smaller than the main bracket holding the dish itself. Even if I painted that (assuming I could find a color to match the shingles), it would still easily stand out protruding up off the roof. And that bracket is also beginning to rust (not as bad as the dish but it's starting). If it were on the backside of the house or some place not as visible, I think I'd be more inclined then to leave it.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

Although I do not like disturbing roof mounts you could remove the bolts holding the bracket, remove the bracket, tar the crap out of the holes and put the bolt back in.
(I am saying bolt but those are no doubt lag screws into the rafters/truss)
Other than weaving in a few shingles there is really no alternative to plugging the holes. The shingles are already penetrated. Someone suggested installing flashing under the shingles.
If done properly that is also a viable option. If it isn't too difficult to get to I suggest you try a few methods. I am certain you will get it taken care of.
Just be careful that your patch doesn't look worse than the brackets.


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## RRH (Nov 24, 2016)

Why wait for it to start leaking. With leaving the mount you are relying on just roof caulk to stop a leak. That does not make for a long term permeant repair. And it will be a slow leak that rots the sheathing before you notice it.
You can already tell from the pic that type of caulk is already drying out and cracking.


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## ChuckTin (Nov 17, 2014)

Lots and lots of Blackjack and pray.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk


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## HuckPie (Nov 15, 2020)

shawnc said:


> The previous owner of the house we bought a couple of years ago had DISH satellite TV service, and even though we don't subscribe to that, the dish itself is still on the roof. Not only is it located close to the front of the house, but it's beginning to rust and is a bit of an eyesore; so I plan to take it down. From what I can tell, the base and struts are screwed into the roof through the shingles and it looks like the installer used some sort of thick exterior caulk (see photo). My question is: is it enough to use some similar caulk to reseal it on the root surface or do I need to get underneath the shingles and patch the hole thru each layer? And what sort of caulk/sealer should be used? Thanks in advance


I'd be inclined to remove the dish mount,
use a heat gun to soften and release the shingle,
then squirt a bunch of Henry's up under
there until it squishes out through the holes.


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## Hankhill11 (Nov 23, 2020)

shawnc said:


> The previous owner of the house we bought a couple of years ago had DISH satellite TV service, and even though we don't subscribe to that, the dish itself is still on the roof. Not only is it located close to the front of the house, but it's beginning to rust and is a bit of an eyesore; so I plan to take it down. From what I can tell, the base and struts are screwed into the roof through the shingles and it looks like the installer used some sort of thick exterior caulk (see photo). My question is: is it enough to use some similar caulk to reseal it on the root surface or do I need to get underneath the shingles and patch the hole thru each layer? And what sort of caulk/sealer should be used? Thanks in advance!


I have two of these on my new house, leftover from previous owner. Which solution did you end up going with?


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## shawnc (Jan 12, 2017)

Hankhill11 said:


> I have two of these on my new house, leftover from previous owner. Which solution did you end up going with?


I've removed the satellite dish but am waiting to remove the brackets until I get a bit warmer weather. I've bought roof sealant and some aluminum flashing that I will cut to size and slip under the shingle, but found that the shingles have an adhesive strip on their front edge (my understanding is to help keep them from being lifted up in strong winds). The fellow at Lowes recommended waiting until temps were a bit higher before trying to use a putty knife to work up that front edge to minimize the chance of cracking the shingle. I've also borrowed a friend's heat gun as a fallback if I need more help to soften that adhesive strip.

Good luck in your project. My roof certainly looks better without that rusting dish for all to see.


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## SARG (Dec 28, 2020)

I use it to touch up a couple small areas around vent pipes every year.


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## shawnc (Jan 12, 2017)

Just to close this off, I took advantage of some warm-ish weather yesterday and completed this job. Like most DIY projects, I had to improvise a bit (for one set of holes from the main bracket, I couldn't slide a single piece of flashing under the shingles to cover all three holes as something seemed to be blocking it; so had to do it with multiple pieces). But I used the product recommended by the "pro consultant" at Lowes on the flashing itself, in the hole in the shingle above the flashing and all under the shingle to (hopefully) glue it back down (and smeared the sealant on the top with shingle grit from the gutter ). 

Fingers crossed that it's all good! Thanks again to the folk who posted suggestions.


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## Ed Ellison (10 mo ago)

SARG said:


> I use it to touch up a couple small areas around vent pipes every year.


I have a bunch of 1/4” screw holes from a solar heated pool system in my asphalt shingle roof... I’m removing this system and replacing with a heat pump... I’m guessing 20+ holes to deal with.... do you think this stuff might do the job, or should I use metal under the shingle as well?


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## Ed Ellison (10 mo ago)

I have a bunch of 1/4” screw holes from a solar heated pool system in my asphalt shingle roof... I’m removing this system and replacing with a heat pump... I’m guessing 20+ holes to deal with.... do you think this stuff might do the job, or should I use metal under the shingle as well?


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