# Bullnose corner beads 1-1/2 inch vs 3/4 inch?



## billyg (Jan 17, 2008)

I'll be removing the original 90 degree corner bead and installing bullnose bead on all the corners of my house. I'm having difficulty deciding between the 1-1/2 inch or the locally more commonly available 3/4 inch bullnose. I'll be using vinyl beads made by Trim-tex. 

Is there any difference in degree of installation difficulty between the two sizes?

In terms of attractiveness, I would think the 1-1/2 inch would be more striking in appearance or do you think it would be overkill?

Since the 1-1/2 inch bullnose is much wider than the original 90 degree bead, the flanges of the bullnose bead will extend onto the orange-peel textured wall.--Is it necessary (before mudding the flanges) to scrape down the texture so that the flanges can sit below the level of the adjacent texture?

Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

billyg said:


> In terms of attractiveness, I would think the 1-1/2 inch would be more striking in appearance or do you think it would be overkill?


They can both look good dependant on the home's layout (open rooms or smaller rooms), design (decor), paint (colors), trimwork and style (ornate or simple).



billyg said:


> Since the 1-1/2 inch bullnose is much wider than the original 90 degree bead, the flanges of the bullnose bead will extend onto the orange-peel textured wall.--Is it necessary (before mudding the flanges) to scrape down the texture so that the flanges can sit below the level of the adjacent texture?


No, it is not. 
I will tell you this, what you want to attempt to do, does require alot of skill and patience, to get it to match just right, and look like it was there when the house was built. 
There is the proper attaching of the vinyl bullnose (which requires that the corners be cut back slightly due to the arc (concave) of the bead's edges. There is the proper compound coating, to make it blend in at the right level and create a seamless surface to the old walls. 
Then, there is the matching of the spray, to the existing surface texture around it. 
Along with those points, consider these: Install, coat, sand in normal drywall procedure. The bullnose bead is only coated to the nose's inside edge. Do test sprays on scrap sheetrock to learn how to match the texture. If you are using a canned texture spray. Spray in a grid pattern (two directions-random). Feather-off each spray stroke, as you would, if you were using an air brush, and painting a car.
Example of the process (tho a little more drywall repair, than just a corner):


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## billyg (Jan 17, 2008)

Thanks Atlantic! Have some additional questions....I've decided on using 1.5" metal bullnose corner bead. Is the paper-faced metal the way to go or the plain metal and what if any are advantages and disadvantages of either?
Also what is the best way to remove the existing 90 degree corner bead which is sitting under about a 1/8 inch thick orange peel texture finish? Should I be concerned if I do some minor damage here and there to the corners in the removal process or will the new bead cover up the minor stuff?
Once the old bead is removed, I'm thinking I'll need to cut back the drywall a bit to accomodate the wide 1.5 inch bullnose..How much should I cut it back?--Just enough so that the inside curve of the nose isn't touching the drywall edge corners and the flanges can sit flat without being flexed??
Thanks again.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

billyg said:


> ....I've decided on using 1.5" metal bullnose corner bead. Is the paper-faced metal the way to go or the plain metal and what if any are advantages and disadvantages of either?


We prefer to use the vinyl bullnose corner bead. To be honest, I say that, not because we have used both and feel that one is better than the other. It's simply because the vinyl is what is most often used in the industry, and what we are familiar with using. We have had no bad experiences with it, and find it easy to cut, shape, attach, and use.



billyg said:


> ....Also what is the best way to remove the existing 90 degree corner bead which is sitting under about a 1/8 inch thick orange peel texture finish?


I suggest that you use a casing/molding pry-bar. It is a small very flat pry bar that is very adept at sliding under trim-work, causing minimal damage to casing and walls, while easily prying-off the trim. It would be the tool to use. Chip away the compound, slide it under the edge of the metal, and start pulling. 
CAUTION: Metal edges of the bead are SHARP. Be careful you do not slice up your fingers!

Examples of this type of pry-bar: 
http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com/67-416-pry-bars/hyde-pry-bar-669468.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/Allway-Tool-Pry-Moulding-Chisel/dp/B000KKRC3I



billyg said:


> ....
> Should I be concerned if I do some minor damage here and there to the corners in the removal process or will the new bead cover up the minor stuff?


No, do not be concerned about minor damage...



billyg said:


> ....Once the old bead is removed, I'm thinking I'll need to cut back the drywall a bit to accomodate the wide 1.5 inch bullnose..How much should I cut it back?--Just enough so that the inside curve of the nose isn't touching the drywall edge corners and the flanges can sit flat without being flexed??


Yes, you should cut it back some. Take a peice of the bullnose bead that you plan on using, cut back a small section at the floor height (that the baseboard will cover) and use the scrap bullnose to lay-out on the corner and figure out how much of the sheetrock you need to cut back.

Good Luck!


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