# Bath layout



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

What sort of shower and what budget?

The square shape makes the space tight between the vanity and the corner of the shower---

I would suggest you consider clipping the outside corner of the shower with a 45* cut---

Budget will determine the design----and your skills---


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Get rid of one of the doors and you could have a real bathroom with a sink.
Sure hope you have complete access above and below this bathrrom with all the fixtures all over the room.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> What sort of shower and what budget?
> 
> The square shape makes the space tight between the vanity and the corner of the shower---
> 
> ...


Thx. I am in the trades and believe I know enough to do a tile shower. I like the 45 idea. Weighed out fiberglass vs tile and would rather spend the extra time. Might have to shrink the counter, maybe a small L shape.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Get rid of one of the doors and you could have a real bathroom with a sink.
> Sure hope you have complete access above and below this bathrrom with all the fixtures all over the room.


Only plumbing roughed inand right wall in.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Your have the swing on the door coming into the bath from the bedroom backwards.
Should be a right hand door.


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

i agree with joe about a door. reverse the door from the family room and the toilet will be hidden with the door open.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

DannyT said:


> i agree with joe about a door. reverse the door from the family room and the toilet will be hidden with the door open.


I thought maybe the door should open away from toilet for quick access but could see the other way would be nice for not making it a focal point when you walk into the room especially if someone is sitting there. Btw, it would be easier to lock/unlock the door from sitting position.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Get rid of one of the doors and you could have a real bathroom with a sink.
> Sure hope you have complete access above and below this bathrrom with all the fixtures all over the room.


I was thinking of a drywall ceiling. The floor is basement slab. I was thinking also of a drop ceiling since there will be a lot going on up there. Wouldnt the tracks and tiles get funky from two showers a day?? Maybe the shower supply should be on south wall(family room side).


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.

There are three common ways to build a safe waterproof shower pan---

Mud bed with a liner---Pvc is used most often

Mud bed with a paint on surface membrane----Hydroban by Latacrete is a good coating.

Schluters shower system using one of their pre made pan and a surface membrane called Kerdi---

All three methods work well----


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> How to build a shower - Building a shower pan with pre-sloped mortar bed, liner and curb.
> 
> There are three common ways to build a safe waterproof shower pan---
> 
> ...


Two things are confusing. 
One, the weep holes are hard to see, hence not sure what they are, and what they do or prevent. 
Two, this is contradicting:
"The cement board has been installed leaving a gap between the bottom edge of the board and the liner. This will ensure there is no wicking of moisture up into the backer board."
After the second layer of mortar was layed, the photo of bed seems to actually be in contact with the cement board, allowing for moisture wicking. 

Also, if building on basement slab, I'm guessing two layers are still necessary for creating a proper slope but not sure why slope can't be made with one layer. Also, if built on slab, can the wire mesh be mounted loose or should it be glued with dots of liquid nail or something...any tricks??


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

Bump
Bump


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Sorry, Nodded off--Egg Nog---

If you use the liner method shown in that link---the pre slope --first bed of mud --goes under the PVC liner to help drain the liner----the liner is clamped into the special drain --folded so no cuts exist below the water line ---then the Durroc is screwed in avoiding screws into the lower wet area--

the bottom of the board will be held in when the top layer of deck mud is packed into place---pebbles or a hand full of spacers are placed around the screw in part of the drain set--that;s were the weep holes are---then fat mud is used to form the curb---

With a Hydroban shower a different drain set is usually used---rock is installed---walls and curb---Tilers mesh is used at all seams--then taped lightly with thinset.

Then the deck mud is packed in----when the mud is set the entire shower walls and floor are coated with the Hydroban---two coats on the wall---four on the floor and bottom 6 inches of the walls.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

Seams like less steps with PVC. 
So the "weep holes" are basically the seam around the drain? 
Hard to believe this would leak if the "sandwich", if you will, is sealed with some kind of sealant AND bolted together. I guess with constant water, pressure, and heat, this weep/slope with first mud coat is good insurance, if not an absolute requirement. Thanks for hearing me out. 

Still wandering about the wicking up the rock board...is it ok on the PVC system?, for the rock to touch the bed?

Often wandered if there could be some kind of venting in the bottom corner to aid in evaporation, reducing mold growth. Always seams to grow in corners. Am I crazy?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I've built a lot of these showers ---Never had a problem---I've built a few Hydroban showers,too. They are faster to build---


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

So does the mesh HAVE to be "tacked" to the slab floor for the first mortar bed layer??

Can this drain assembly be purchased at a big box store??

Do I use screws for the wonder board??

Sorry so many questions, I figured I would do the shower first then get into the rest of the room. Next, I'm thinking of turning the toilet 90 deg to face the vanity, and back it up a few inches for more room. This would take some digging I didn't really want to do..the lav and shower meet where the toilet is now. Lots of rearranging. Talk me out of it please.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Squeakyhinge said:


> So does the mesh HAVE to be "tacked" to the slab floor for the first mortar bed layer??
> 
> Can this drain assembly be purchased at a big box store??
> 
> ...


Yes the drains are available at the Home Depot--I like square covers so I get mine at the plumbing supply house---Depot may have square covers.

For walls screws are best.

As to moving the under slab plumbing--do it--that bath will last a long time---do it right and enjoy it---It's only scary the first time you do something like that---I own my own jack hammer---

You mention 'wicking' never had an issue --stop the rock just above the liner---pack the top layer of deck mud against it----


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## Blondesense (Sep 23, 2008)

Squeakyhinge said:


> Next, I'm thinking of turning the toilet 90 deg to face the vanity, and back it up a few inches for more room. This would take some digging I didn't really want to do..the lav and shower meet where the toilet is now. Lots of rearranging. Talk me out of it please.


I think the toilet facing the vanity would look strange, but do give careful thought to the vanity and sink - clearances for any doors or drawers to open against the toilet. And do you want the sink centered, or off set to one side? 
You might consider a narrower vanity, on the wall with the toilet. It would give you more floor space.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

Blondesense said:


> I think the toilet facing the vanity would look strange, but do give careful thought to the vanity and sink - clearances for any doors or drawers to open against the toilet. And do you want the sink centered, or off set to one side?
> You might consider a narrower vanity, on the wall with the toilet. It would give you more floor space.


This is what I'm doing. Toilet will face away from sink. Sink will be on the wall with the toilet. Shower will be between the two doors. A 42 x 34 shower should allow enough room for door clearance. 

Right now, I'm leveling/smoothing the floor before framing the walls and ceiling. The ceiling is concrete(porch floor) so it will be insulated with rigid foam(aluminum side down) and held up with ceiling framing and this will be supported with wall framing. 

Would you run water lines through ceiling or through the wall behind toilet and sink?? The ceiling may actually be warmer because there's a n interior room above. 

The exhaust fan will probably have to go on one of the walls so I don't loose ceiling height with a 6 or 8" exhaust pipe. (2 in. rigid, 1.5 in. Framing, and drywall). 

Can I lay framing flat on ceiling for 6' spans??
Would you use a humidistat in the exhaust fan for a basement bath??

Sorry I'm not being very friendly. I'm kind of in a hurry toget the job done but I do appreciate your feedback and hope others can benefit from my questions as well.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

Here's a plan:










Here's my new question: could you live with a 77" rough height (Pre-mud pan) shower stall?? Picture below. 
Otherwise I'll have to jack floor out for sunken pan. This may put an unwanted reverse slope in floor drain run; the measure tape shows 7" before it "hits" p trap; not sure if its hitting the side or bottom of p trap/elbow. There's no where else to put the shower.


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## tylernt (Jul 5, 2012)

I wouldn't do 77". I just measured ours and it's 80" from the finished shower pan to the ceiling, and it's claustrophobic. And, the shower head coming out of the wall winds up about shoulder height on a 6' person like myself, so it's real hard to wash hair.

The only way I'd even consider it would be if you could somehow get a flushmount showerhead that installed into the ceiling so a average adult could get water on the top of their head while standing.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

tylernt said:


> I wouldn't do 77". I just measured ours and it's 80" from the finished shower pan to the ceiling, and it's claustrophobic. And, the shower head coming out of the wall winds up about shoulder height on a 6' person like myself, so it's real hard to wash hair.
> 
> The only way I'd even consider it would be if you could somehow get a flushmount showerhead that installed into the ceiling so a average adult could get water on the top of their head while standing.


Thank for your input. The step down pan would also be a nice feature.
Or, The shower stall is about 32 x 42 so I guess if I used a ceiling mount shower head, it could be off toward the side so you're not always in rinse mode, right?


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## tylernt (Jul 5, 2012)

Squeakyhinge said:


> The shower stall is about 32 x 42 so I guess if I used a ceiling mount shower head, it could be off toward the side so you're not always in rinse mode, right?


True, I wouldn't want to have to turn the water off when lathering up, just step aside from the ceiling waterfall. So yeah, off-center would probably work out well.

I see Grohe makes an Rainshower "F-series" flushmount shower head. Not saying Grohe is the only one or even the best of course, just the first that popped up in my search.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

Ripped out slab and starting over. 


The design with toilet facing sink is better, right?
I am starting from one 4" drain where the toilet is, the north and west walls are exterior, and the only place the east door can be is exactly where it's at. All else can change.


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## Blondesense (Sep 23, 2008)

Personally, I prefer the first layout, with the sink and toilet facing the room rather than facing each other. I think it would feel roomier. 
With the second layout, I'm afraid when you get them in place they may be closer than you think and look forced in there.
But that's just my two cents, yours is what counts. 

Are there any windows involved?


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## tylernt (Jul 5, 2012)

Um to be honest I can't decide. :jester:


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## redman88 (Oct 5, 2012)

whats the name of that app you are using?


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

Blondesense said:


> Personally, I prefer the first layout, with the sink and toilet facing the room rather than facing each other. I think it would feel roomier.
> With the second layout, I'm afraid when you get them in place they may be closer than you think and look forced in there.
> But that's just my two cents, yours is what counts.
> 
> Are there any windows involved?


Yes. I agree. Thank you. By trying to get more sink/counter space, I will end with less roomy feel. 
I might have to move the south wall more south a little. I want more room for a real vanity for "dressing". 
Unfortunately, there is a natural break; a low I beam (about 76") where the south wall is now. Unless I have a big step-down bathroom which seems odd. Also, can't go down much more because of the French drain. 
As for windows, the top of wall is 3 feet above grade and it would be a basement window. I would like a window but concerned about the exterior aesthetics. But none right now.


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

tylernt said:


> Um to be honest I can't decide. :jester:


Sorry tylernt, I'm taking several steps back, even though tons of help from everyone, and ripping out slab. Too many obstacles with the old slab.


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## oleag00 (Aug 3, 2010)

Could you use a sliding pocket door for the entrance from the family room?


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## Squeakyhinge (Jan 29, 2011)

oleag00 said:


> Could you use a sliding pocket door for the entrance from the family room?


Yes I thought about that. I'm in many homes and have noticed that they are cumbersome for every day use. They are most useful as a sort of partition wall like between the mud room and kitchen for occasional privacy. On second thought, this would be used less than in other rooms of our house. Especially not as much as the other door way to the bedroom. Thanks. I will consider it.


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