# Painting "yellowed" fiberboard accoustical drop ceiling tiles



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

I don't think they will receive paint very well.


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## tunabreath (Jan 29, 2011)

titanoman said:


> I don't think they will receive paint very well.



From Armstrong (yes I know I have USG):


```
[B]Can Armstrong ceilings be painted?
[/B]Fiberglass panels should not be painted. All other Armstrong mineral fiber ceiling tiles, panels, planks, and even grid can be painted any color or to mimic any metal - bronze, tin, gold, or copper. Latex or water-based paints are recommended
```


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## BraniksPainting (Jan 20, 2012)

tunabreath said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have a large number of these accoustical fiberboard drop ceiling tiles in my basement:


Baloney, you can't paint accoustical ceiling tile! YOU MOST CERTAINLY CAN. I've painted thousands of these tiles and in different colors with no issues at all. It will not decrease the sound deadening either....unless you are painting them semi-gloss or gloss, then it might.
The product I LOVE to use for painting these is Sherwin Williams (Master Hide Flat). It's perfect. There is no need for priming unless you have stains on the tiles. Spray painting the tiles would be fine. Sherwin Williams rents sprayers so check with them on price. Most tool rental companies rent them as well.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Paint obviously creates a sound reflective rather than absorbing surface to acoustic tile. All that said and you deciding whether you should or not? Wish I had an extra nickle for every one I have painted through the years. 

I have usually painted them in place with a sprayer or more often with a fat roller cover (3/4-1" nap). My bubbas in white may scream again at this use of thick nap roller cover. The tiles suck paint though and I found I need what fatter covers would hold to cover well. 

Usually I was painting not only because they had discolored but because clients wanted something other than white ceilings. Black bar/grill and gallery ceilings come to mind. Painting in place with a roller will try your patience but it can work. You mentioned frayed edges though so spraying might be your best bet. 

Rather than buy a cheap Chinese plastic parts sprayer for under $200 and be dissapointed? And have but another garage ornament you will seldom if ever use again? I would rent a nice pro piece of airless and buy your own spray tips if you want to be safe.


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

tunabreath said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have a large number of these accoustical fiberboard drop ceiling tiles in my basement:
> 
> ...


Hi - I think you're on the right track. I would, however, recommend a good, real, HVLP sprayer. Not a conversion gun as sold in Home Depot/ Harbor Freight/.... etc. Much easier to clean than airless sprayers and likely better suited for the door and trim work you have in mind.
Here is one similar to the one I have, somewhat over your $200 but but some shopping should get you one in your range.
http://www.amazon.com/Earlex-HV5500...OKR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328366029&sr=8-1


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## tunabreath (Jan 29, 2011)

sdsester said:


> Paint obviously creates a sound reflective rather than absorbing surface to acoustic tile. All that said and you deciding whether you should or not? Wish I had an extra nickle for every one I have painted through the years.
> 
> I have usually painted them in place with a sprayer or more often with a fat roller cover (3/4-1" nap). My bubbas in white may scream again at this use of thick nap roller cover. The tiles suck paint though and I found I need what fatter covers would hold to cover well.
> 
> ...


My issue with spraying them or rolling them in place is the fact of when you have to remove them, you run the risk of damaging them since they tend to stick to the grid.

I would like to get my own sprayer so I am not on a time constraint and plan to use it for doors.

So no need to prime, even if they have yellowed? I don't want anything to bleed through. I want this to be a one time deal.

I will end up painting the whole finished basement anyways, so maybe spraying them while in place isnt a bad idea since I wont have to tape anything off, but then I would run the risk of paint runs/drips, but I don't imagine that happening since the fiber board would soak up the paint.

I know people have said stay clear of the harbor freight ones, but this one seems to have decent reviews (all be it only 4), but it looks like a itdecently made piece and judging by the instruction manual, it looks to have customer support.

http://www.harborfreight.com/58-horsepower-airless-paint-sprayer-kit-68001.html

If anyone else can offer any budget sprayers, it would be much appreciated.

I will call sherwin williams and see what their rental fee is.


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

tunabreath said:


> My issue with spraying them or rolling them in place is the fact of when you have to remove them, you run the risk of damaging them since they tend to stick to the grid.
> 
> I would like to get my own sprayer so I am not on a time constraint and plan to use it for doors.
> 
> ...


 
The sprayer you linked to would likely work OK, especially spraying the tiles in place as a cup fed gun would likely be problematic spraying over head. 
I still think that, overall, a HVLP system would work better. Here is one within your budget:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10469

That is, however, a cup gun which would give you a problem with overhead.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Personally, I would not apply latex right over those, but put an oil stain sealer between them and the latex. To seal them and who knows what the yellowing is from. Putting a water based product on fiberboard makes me nervous.


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