# Anyone covered stained concrete flooring with wood?



## jcieutat (Nov 28, 2009)

We have decided to cover our stained concrete flooring inside our house with hardwood. We purchased 1200 square feet of handscraped engineered hardwood. We were going to float it but have decided to glue it down. I spoke to the manufacturer Bostik who stated that it is not recommended to glue the wood over the stained/sealed concrete floor with prepping it. Does anyone know the easiest way to do this without getting the inside of my house full of dust? Better yet, what do I have to do?


----------



## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

Did you talk directly to tech service at Bostick, or a distributor/dealer? I know that the Bosticks Best variety of urethane adhesive is real sticky and is very popular with flooring guys for difficult jobs. 

Maybe you don't have to sand or abrade it, just etch it with an acid? Hopefully, one of the wood floor guys will be along shortly with comments. I am interested as well as I am going to glue down engineered to a painted slab.


----------



## jcieutat (Nov 28, 2009)

Yeah, I spoke with Bostik tech support about using Bostik's Best. The funny thing is the salesperson who sold us the wood said nothing about this!!!!


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

wow, a salesman who fail'd to mention there was a downside to the product he's humping ? ? ? :laughing: that's gotta be a 1st, no ? ? ? impo, most ' tech svces ' people on the phone don't know their *** from a hole in the ground EVEN IF THEY SPEAK GOOD ENGLISH :yes:

here's my point - you're talking to the wrong people,,, you need to talk w/guys who remove sealer OR remove it yourself ( franmar's beanee-doo ) if you're up to it,,, here's why - NOTHING you place on a failing substrate will last - eg, the sealer's coming up & your very fine looks-like wood floor'll come up w/it.

am curious why you've decided to add wood knowing la's got great humidity & flooding issues,,, acid-stain'd floors are pet-proof, flood-proof, & hypoallergenic + easy to clean - just dawn dish detergent & wtr,,, w/proper sealers, don't even need wax.

please don't think i'm bashing you personally - we don't even know each other  many times in life we ALL make decisions based on ignorance, idiotic advice,, or our ' wants ' rather'n thinking logically bas'd on FACTS,,, thankfully, there's a cure for that :thumbsup: its stupid that's fatal.

btw, there's no dust if done properly,,, bostik wants to sell wood & i don't blame 'em a bit - i wood too :whistling2: if that were my business/craft,,, however, its obvious someone doesn't know jack schitt when it comes to acid-stain & conc sealers.

far's the poster who's ' glueing ' engineer'd to a paint'd slab - think you might want to reconsider, mr genius ? ? ? hope your interest is sufficiently piqued to read, investigate, reconsider/evaluate, & decide - its YOUR $$$ & YOUR home.

my disclaimer - NOT A ' WOOD GUY ' :no:

nevertheless, best of luck to BOTH of you,,, i don't care a whit as its YOUR homes NOR do i get any satisfaction from bursting bubbles, reading my words, OR investing time in your troubles,,, this post's ONLY to help both of youse :thumbup:


----------



## jcieutat (Nov 28, 2009)

Three reasons we are putting down the wood. First, we are adding on to our house and when we pull up the two existing french doors to make the entry way to the new room, the floors are definitely not going to match. There were also a few toggle bolts underneath the thresholds that I remember having to grind down when they were putting the doors in. The second reason is that we are tired of the concrete floors. Last, we have always wanted wood floors in our house and what better time than now when we are doing the addition. 

So to get back to my question. Can anyone advise what I actually have to do to prep these floors for my installer who will be gluing down the wood?


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

easy enough - just diamond grind your floors & remove the sealer,,, another method's to use franmar's beanee-doo but that leaves residual stains of its own & may interfere w/further work,,, no reason to worry about the stain as it only colors the free lime avail in the concrete's cement.


----------



## jcieutat (Nov 28, 2009)

Will diamond grinding the floor remove the sealer or will that take some sort of chemical to do?


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

itsreallyconc said:


> easy enough - just diamond grind your floors WHICH WILL remove the sealer,,, another method's to use franmar's beanee-doo but that leaves residual stains of its own & may interfere w/further work,,, no reason to worry about the stain as it only colors the free lime avail in the concrete's cement.



SORRY IT WAS CONFUSING,,, those of us in the trade KNOW that's the fastest way to do the work


----------



## jcieutat (Nov 28, 2009)

I have one more question. We have a few pretty large surface cracks. Will these be filled in with the floor adhesive or should they be filled in with some sort of epoxy first?


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

if those crks're large, they're all the way thru the floor,,, typical surf crks're just that - only on the surface,,, usually a result of too much wtr while finishing on a hot, sunny day.

IF the crks're dynamic, flexible epoxy over backer rod,,, if static, have your guy fill 'em w/floorpatch - easy !


----------



## msv (Dec 4, 2009)

BTW, bostich wasn't trying to sell you wood, as they don't make any.


----------



## jcieutat (Nov 28, 2009)

I was not referring to Bostik as the person selling us the wood. We have no purchased the glue yet. I was referring to the sales associate who sold us the wood.


----------

