# Disconnect for Mini split



## davenc (Apr 28, 2013)

Inside breaker would be 30a. I would use #12 wire


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

You need to wire it with #12 and your breaker can be up to 30 amps. I wouldn't go less than 25. You'll feed the condenser and the AHU is wired off of that.

On a mini-split, the disconnect would just go outside with the condenser.


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

Thanks for the quick reply guys.....what size fuses for disconnect and should I use 12/2 or 12/3.

Thanks

Anthony M


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

12/2 to the disconnect, provided the wiring isn't outside. Then from the disconnect to the condenser with some liquid tight conduit and THHN wire. 

The disconnect outside should just be a non-fusible pull out. The breaker is the "fuse".


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

The disconnect will be mounted on the house and the wire will enter through the rear of the box.


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

amoscara said:


> The disconnect will be mounted on the house and the wire will enter through the rear of the box.


That's cool. 

There needs to be a receptacle within 25 feet and on the same level for servicing.


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

I do have a 15A outdoor receptacle which will be about 4' away from the disconnect, would that good. Also what does MCA 15.5A mean


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

Yes, the receptacle is fine. MCA= minimum circuit ampacity. So, you have to have a circuit that can handle a minimum of 15.5 amps and the maximum breaker size is a 30. Different rules apply to motors and HVAC equipment.


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

One more question...should the 30A breaker be a single or double pole...Im thinking double if I need 230......


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## mm11 (Apr 30, 2013)

Double pole


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## stickboy1375 (Apr 28, 2012)

You could run #14 AWG if you wanted.

Also, nobody ever does this, but a disconnect is required on the inside as well... just saying.


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

stickboy1375 said:


> You could run #14 AWG if you wanted.
> 
> Also, nobody ever does this, but a disconnect is required on the inside as well... just saying.


I was wondering about that 'cause I had heard some talk about it and never researched it. Is that an '08 or '11 thing?


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

amoscara said:


> I need to install a disconnect for a mini split heat pump. these are the power specs.
> 
> Outdoor Unit Power 208-230/VAC-1Ph-60Hz
> 
> ...


Just becarefull with this part some inspectors will nail ya on this part.

Did the nameplate mention breaker as well ? if so you are good to go.

Normally for moi .,

Using the NEC art 430 et 440's 

The conductor size is 14 awg size but normaly 12 awg will work just fine for this purpose

Max OCPD ( it can be breaker or fuse if the nameplate say either one or both ) will be 30 amp.

But a gotcha is if your unit say fuse only then install the outdoor fuseable A/C disconnect switch and install 30 amp *time delay* fuse that will take care of that ( the breaker can be still at 30 amp in the breaker panel )

I belive that was changed not too long ago but not sure which cycle they did enforce this part.

Merci,
Marc


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## bobelectric (Mar 3, 2007)

Coming up through the ranks,I was always taught if you are feeding a fusible disconnect,you used wire size to compliment size of disconnect and fuse down at that point.


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## Philly Master (Mar 30, 2013)

stickboy1375 said:


> You could run #14 AWG if you wanted.
> 
> Also, nobody ever does this, but a disconnect is required on the inside as well... just saying.


Ok I,ll bite ... This is a mini split ...never heard of that one ...


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## stickboy1375 (Apr 28, 2012)

Philly Master said:


> Ok I,ll bite ... This is a mini split ...never heard of that one ...


It's a motor, requires a disconnect inside at the indoor unit for service. Just like every other motor.

I install a 3pole toggle switch with an old work box to keep it clean looking


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## Philly Master (Mar 30, 2013)

stickboy1375 said:


> It's a motor, requires a disconnect inside at the indoor unit for service. Just like every other motor.
> 
> I install a 3pole toggle switch with an old work box to keep it clean looking



it is a very low watt fan motor .... and since the disconnect outside would be "lockable" ( normal A/C disconnect ) i do not think it would need one inside ....


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## stickboy1375 (Apr 28, 2012)

Philly Master said:


> it is a very low watt fan motor .... and since the disconnect outside would be "lockable" ( normal A/C disconnect ) i do not think it would need one inside ....


Most are 240v motors, what's the wattage have to do with it?

It's like saying the breaker on the panel is lockable so why install a disconnect at the AC unit.


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## Philly Master (Mar 30, 2013)

stickboy1375 said:


> *Most are 240v motors, what's the wattage have to do with it?*
> 
> It's like saying the breaker on the panel is lockable so why install a disconnect at the AC unit.



should have said 1/8 hp or less ...430.109 (B) is where i was going .....


so give or take 100 watts ....


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## Philly Master (Mar 30, 2013)

440.14 Location.


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

Ok here is what I have so far....I ran the 12/2 wire to the disconnect ( non fuseable) 30A Dbl pole breaker in the panel.

Now I have an electrical whip with 2 #8 thhn conductors and 1 #10 conductor. Is this the only wires that go to the outdoor unit.

the directions are kinda poor.

thanks

amoscara


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

The two #8 are the hots, the other is the ground.

The disconnect terminals will be labeled Line for the incoming power.


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

Thanks Jim Port....


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## AnthonyM (Mar 24, 2011)

One more question and Im good to go,it's probably stupid so don't laugh.

I purchased the electrical whip and it has one straight end and one 90 deg end. is there any preference which end goes on the unit and which goes on the disconnect.

thanks 

Amoscara


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

Not really. Most of the time, you'll want to use the straight out of the bottom of the disconnect and the 90 on the unit.


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