# 1/4 or 1/2 backerboard



## GLASSMAN1 (Jan 31, 2008)

feeling stupidier every day ha.i have 3/8 sheet rock in my hose.im redoing bathroom shower.i framed ,shimmed around shower pan so that everything would be flush on surrounding wall for 1/4 inch backerboard.now i found out you cant use that on walls.what could happen if i used 1/4 inch backerboard and do you think it would be ok to use it on one wall only that joins into existing 3/8 sheetrock and 1/2 inch on the rest.were wanting 3/8 tile.should i start over.thanks


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## End Grain (Nov 17, 2007)

Backerboard is important for tiling a shower. Moisture-resistance, strength, tile weight, thinset adhesion, etc. But, if you have a pre-fabricated self-sealing shower enclosure, it can be affixed directly onto the studs with no actual drywall, backerboard, etc. as per the manufacturers' okey-dokey.


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## USP45 (Dec 14, 2007)

First off installing tiles over sheet rock especially in a moisture rich environment such as a shower is probably one of the biggest no-no's ever. The tiles will peel off. The framing for the shower should be the same size as the pan (Assuming it is a fiberglass pan) then you install Durock (cementiciouse board) so it comes down over the lip keeping it about 1/2" off the pan so as not to let the Durock be immersed in water if it should leak. Tile walls allowing tile to come down to pan. You really have no way to fasten anything 1/4" and expect it to stay more than a few years.


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## End Grain (Nov 17, 2007)

GLASSMAN1, I misunderstood your reference to _backerboard_ as cement board is commonly called that - perhaps erroneously - out here in AZ_._ Mea culpa. USP45 is 100% correct in the recommendation for the actual material you should ask for and use. And, his reasons are right on the money. Moisture-resistant drywall is called greensheet or greenboard out here.


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## GLASSMAN1 (Jan 31, 2008)

i have framed the studs so that they are flush with the inside lip of shower pan,also i have put studs were im going to screw the shower door to.the sheetrock is only on one side and its way above were any water is going to hit.the rest is being redone all the way to the ceiling.have you heard of anybody useing 1/4 inch backerboard around showers and was it strong enough to hold the tile?


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

GLASSMAN1 said:


> i have framed the studs so that they are flush with the inside lip of shower pan,also i have put studs were im going to screw the shower door to.the sheetrock is only on one side and its way above were any water is going to hit.the rest is being redone all the way to the ceiling.have you heard of anybody useing 1/4 inch backerboard around showers and was it strong enough to hold the tile?


1/4" will not be strong enough for wall tile. You'll need to use 1/2". What kind of backerboard are you going to use?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Use 1/2" Cement board in your shower wall area.

Tear the shims out. That way, the difference will only be 1/8".

Make that up, by having the tile sit over the cement board just slightly, (where it meets the 3/8 S/R). Grout the 1/8" gap.


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## GLASSMAN1 (Jan 31, 2008)

im useing hardi backer board.thanks for information.i geuss we learn as we go .


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## Galileo007 (Aug 11, 2014)

*1/2" hardie isn't 1/2"*

Here's the deal. 1/2" hardie backer isn't really 1/2". It is 7/16". The reason they make it 7/16" is so that the thin layer of mortar holding the tiles will be hidden by the drywall edge that butts up against it. In your case, the difference will be only 1/16" and is easily groutable, or you can just silicone that edge for an even better seal as grout is semi-permeable to water (not that it really matters on a vertical edge).

I don't see why you can't put 1/4" hardie on the wall, then screws (counter-sunk well!), then a thin layer of mortar for bonding, another sheet of 1/4", and more screws. Be advised though, that 1/4" hardie is actually slightly more than 1/4". I believe this is because tumbled edges of tile shouldn't sink below an adjoining surface edge so it's slightly more than 1/4"... if that makes sense. :yes::no:

Also, when you silicon, use painter's tape and mineral spirits to get a nice caulk line.

My two cents, cheers!


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

This is going to be "one-screwed-up-shower" my friend. What a train wreck this is going to be!


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Just noticed this thread is six years old. Suckered again!

Galileo007 pat attention will ya!!!:laughing:


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

For the record....Hardibacker says you 'can' use 1/4" board for showers. But I think everyone agrees 1/2" is better.

My downstairs shower has 1/4" hardibacker....but I also have my studs a lot closer than 16" OC. No issues. Nice and straight.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

ddawg16 said:


> *For the record....Hardibacker says you 'can' use 1/4" board for showers.* But I think everyone agrees 1/2" is better.


*FOR THE RECORD...*
*Show me a link to that information please, so I can read it for myself.* I know of no 1/4" tile backer suitable for wall use. Let's get to the bottom of this before someone suffers damages from some dubious information. If I am in error I will be happy to stand-corrected.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> *FOR THE RECORD...*
> *Show me a link to that information please, so I can read it for myself.* I know of no 1/4" tile backer suitable for wall use. Let's get to the bottom of this before someone suffers damages from some dubious information. If I am in error I will be happy to stand-corrected.


For the record.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/landing-hardiebacker.shtml



> Yes, HardieBacker 1/4'' cement board may be used in a shower. However, we recommend HardieBacker 500 if you need to make a smooth transition to drywall. The board must be mechanically fastened every 8'' on center to the wood or metal studs spaced a maximum of 16'' on center. A vapor barrier is needed if required by local building codes.


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## Galileo007 (Aug 11, 2014)

Bud Cline said:


> Just noticed this thread is six years old. Suckered again!
> 
> Galileo007 pat attention will ya!!!:laughing:


 
LOL... There is nothing wrong with being right 6 years later. I found the thread while researching an install and so will someone else 6 years from now. :thumbsup:


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Read what you want to from that gobble-dee-****. There is NO-WAY 1/4" cement board will be substantial enough to carry a tile installation on a wall. God help you if you lean on it!

Read closer...Even the information in that link is contradictory. Those guys just want to sell product, Damn the consequences - Full speed ahead.

I would be curious to know how one can fasten the boards to studs every eight inches in both directions when the studs are spaced 16" apart? How's that going to work?

Dawg I appreciate your extensive experience in working on your own place over the years but all you seem to know about is your own home improvements and you seem to have been very lucky more than a few times.:thumbsup: To come here and promote ridiculous and unproven techniques that others unaware may follow thinking you know something is irresponsible in my opinion.

You won't find the use of 1/4" cement board being recommended anywhere in the installation industry.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> Read what you want to from that gobble-dee-****. There is NO-WAY 1/4" cement board will be substantial enough to carry a tile installation on a wall. God help you if you lean on it!
> 
> Read closer...Even the information in that link is contradictory. Those guys just want to sell product, Damn the consequences - Full speed ahead.
> 
> ...


I'm not promoting it. But Hardibacker said it was ok...so I did it. But you need to understand that in my case, all my studs in that one shower are less than 16" OC...much less. The longest span between studs is about 12"....ok, maybe 12.5". 

I remember when I did the hot mop and every one basically did a WTF.

It's been over a year now since I installed the hardibacker...and with luck I'll get around to actually putting up tile in the next week or so. But, if time is any indicator...everything is still very straight and flat.

But since I'm going to use RTV to attach the tiles, I figure it will have enough 'give' so that everything will be fine.


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