# Removing a water softener



## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Is that push button valve that the water softener pipes are connected to, the only shutoff? Are there any other isolation shut off valves for it? 

The reason I ask, is that push button valve looks very old and may fail and or leak after pipes have been disconnected. Just wondering if you have another isolation shut off valve. Make sure you drain softener before you try to move it.

I'm sure it can be plugged somehow. Please wait for the plumbers to respond to your post. Thanks.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The two pipes need to be joined together---that is the main feed for the house--

turn off the water--cut both pipes with a tubing cutter--connect them using 2 --90* elbows--and a short section of pipe---

If you don't know how to solder--I suppose push on shark bite type fittings could be used. (or call your plumber--it is a quick job for a pro)


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## Lilion (Aug 16, 2012)

Thanks gentlemen. I think all the piping is probably from the 70's. The water heater is from 1974! But it works. I took a good look and the pipe on the right comes in from outside and then the one on the left goes back up the wall and splits out all over, to the water heater, the humidifier (which is a whole different issue). 

Here's another picture of that push-button valve. It just says, "push to bypass". The only other shut off between it and the water main is the one that shuts off the whole house. They do look terrible...but I admit, there's 14 years of dust and spider webs on them. I just have never cleaned down there. :blush: 

My husband does know how to solder. So I think we can handle it if cutting and putting them together is what we need to do.

Question. The bypass, I guess that causes the water to bypass the softener and instead go straight through it and up the other pipe?


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Lilion said:


> Question. The bypass, I guess that causes the water to bypass the softener and instead go straight through it and up the other pipe?


It causes the water to bypass the softener and takes the softener out of the loop. No water will pass through the softener. Service techs use this when servicing the softener, etc.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Basically you just reverse the process of installing. In your case, you just need to take out that By-pass, then install a loop in its place. You could just use two Shark bites and a piece of PEX or Copper tubing. Then when you are ready to put back in another Water Softner, you just remove the Shark Bites and piece of copper and put back in the new one and new bypass.

You are talking maybe 5 min's tops to remove the Water Softener out of the Potable water system. Then maybe another half hour to get it out of your basement. That includes removing any water and remaining salt & resin that may be in the bottom of the container.


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## Lilion (Aug 16, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> In your case, you just need to take out that By-pass, then install a loop in its place.


So...I do it above the bypass, instead of between the bypass and the water softener? I had thought below and leave the bypass in case it's needed at some other point, if the next folks want a softener again. Those pipes stick out quite a ways. 

But if I do it above, do I just make the loop anywhere up the wall where the two pipes run together, like a few inches above the bypass? 

I really appreciate the input. I've been tired of this for ages...we store vacuum attachments and cat litter on top of it. lol


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## Lilion (Aug 16, 2012)

jmon said:


> It causes the water to bypass the softener and takes the softener out of the loop. No water will pass through the softener. Service techs use this when servicing the softener, etc.



I kinda think that's what I said...or at least meant. It comes in thru the right pipe, then goes thru the bypass and up into the house, instead of going thru the water softener and then back up into the house. 

Thanks!


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Lilion said:


> So...I do it above the bypass, instead of between the bypass and the water softener? I had thought below and leave the bypass in case it's needed at some other point, if the next folks want a softener again. Those pipes stick out quite a ways.
> 
> But if I do it above, do I just make the loop anywhere up the wall where the two pipes run together, like a few inches above the bypass?
> 
> I really appreciate the input. I've been tired of this for ages...we store vacuum attachments and cat litter on top of it. lol



I would reconnect the pipes up high where they enter and exit the room. If you do it down where the bypass is, you create a U that will hold water if you ever need to drain the plumbing. If someone wants to put in another softener they can replumb it.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Yes. Where the Bypass is soldered to the Copper pipe. You just replace it with two Shark Bite Elbows, with a piece of Copper pipe between them. If you are slow, maybe a 10 min. job. 5 Min. if you tell the husband to just go watch the game.

Make sure you shut the water off for the house Cold water. Or else you are going to look like you went swimming.


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## Lilion (Aug 16, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> Yes. Where the Bypass is soldered to the Copper pipe. You just replace it with two Shark Bite Elbows, with a piece of Copper pipe between them. If you are slow, maybe a 10 min. job. 5 Min. if you tell the husband to just go watch the game.
> 
> Make sure you shut the water off for the house Cold water. Or else you are going to look like you went swimming.



LOL! Hubby is the one that usually does the plumbing stuff. I'm the idea girl. (I'm actually pretty handy myself...but it makes him feel good.) :laughing:

Thanks a bunch gentlemen. Sounds like a piece of cake and I'm looking forward to more room in there.


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