# Drywall nail types



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Screws. You want screws.


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## Jessidog (Jun 21, 2011)

mikegp said:


> Screws. You want screws.


+1 - Use screws!

David


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## TrapperL (Jul 23, 2011)

Blued nails comes from way back in time. It was to keep the nails from rusting in the lumber yards open bins. The nails were not a fast mover in those days but then again, nothing was a fast mover. They will rust like any other blued surface on steel. No advantages to using them. You need to remember that when these came about, there was little A/C around and most often the nail bin was outside in a lumber shed. At one time we had a drywall screw called a buttercup. Instead of a flat head, it was concave. It didn't break the paper as easily and it gave an area for the float. I've probably seen 10+ different styles of drywall nails over the years. Screws are the best.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

x4 screws


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

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DM


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## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

*but, but*

I know I know - its all about the screw thing :no:, but I'm faster with a good weighted hammer and a pouch full of nails. I cant really explain that but I think its related to a back operation I had 4 years ago. The pushing force of the screw gun really torques my back, yet I can swing the hammer with ease!
Guess I'm one of the ancient nailers!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I put up ALL my drywall with a variable speed cordless drill. 
Hardly any pressure needed at all.

DM


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## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

Thanks TrapperL for the info, I forgot to put that on the last post. Just curious why they made a bright shinny nail either - same reason I guess.

Yea, I should probably do some more experimenting on the old drywall in the garage with a good VSR drill. It always felt like the screw gun was in charge of me rather than me in charge of it  Thank god for old crusty drywall for training purposes!


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

kevsprojects said:


> Yea, I should probably do some more experimenting on the old drywall in the garage with a good VSR drill. It always felt like the screw gun was in charge of me rather than me in charge of it  Thank god for old crusty drywall for training purposes!


Investigate renting one of those cartridge sheetrock guns. Don't know if the rental $ is worth it, but I see guys putting in screws way faster than nails because the screws are all pre-loaded.


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## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

*There may be hope!*

After some experimentation, I found that my old (really old) cordless drill weighs almost twice as much as my corded B&D drill . I'm sure a really nice properly balanced cordless drill would work, but right now I'm pretty satisfied with my corded drill. Nice control and precise torquing on every screw. Now just trying to master the art of getting them just flush with the face paper and not over driven. 

While you here ~ what really is the proper size screw for:

1/2" thick regular sheets, 16" oc studs?, 

and, 

5/8" type X fire coded sheets, 16" oc studs/joist as well as 24" oc studs/joist?

I will be doing walls that are 16" oc & ceilings that are 24" oc.

Shouldn't it be 1-1/2" length for 1/2" & 2" length for 5/8".???


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I believe it's 1 1/2" for 5/8" ceiling sheetrock, but I used 2" too.
And I spaced them much tighter than required.

DM


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

1-5/8" GP screws (Orange boxes at Lowe's or Home Depot). I've never seen 1-1/2" GP's, they come in either 1-1/4 or 1-5/8 at the box stores.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I nail AND GLUE all wood framing with phosphate coated nails (cupped head). Way less "pops" than with screws. Screws work better in metal stud applications. You don't have the problem with getting the screw "set" just right as you do in wood. One stud is denser than the next, so you push a bit harder to set the screw and you break the face paper. There's a "pop". I'm "old school" though, so hard to change from 35 yrs. of the same method that has worked. Screws are considered the "norm" these days and probably easier for the DIY'er. I would still recommend using ADHESIVE with either method. It will cut down immensely on "pops", whether they be screws or nails. Best of luck.....


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

bjbatlanta said:


> I nail AND GLUE all wood framing with phosphate coated nails (cupped head). Way less "pops" than with screws. Screws work better in metal stud applications. You don't have the problem with getting the screw "set" just right as you do in wood. One stud is denser than the next, so you push a bit harder to set the screw and you break the face paper. There's a "pop". I'm "old school" though, so hard to change from 35 yrs. of the same method that has worked. Screws are considered the "norm" these days and probably easier for the DIY'er. I would still recommend using ADHESIVE with either method. It will cut down immensely on "pops", whether they be screws or nails. Best of luck.....


Glue sheetrock? WOW... I can't imagine the curse words people must use that have to renovate the panels you've hung. Seems very excessive to save yourself from a few nail pops...


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

It's called "Industry Standard". I've had to do repairs on drywall that is applied with adhesive and it is definitely harder to remove. Still no excuse NOT to use adhesive. Don't know your actual experience "in the field" dealing with "nail pops", but quite often in new construction (especially houses built in wet, cold, winter months), what you refer to as "a few nail pops" can literally be hundreds throughout a house. Touching up all of those areas and repainting, can lead to quite a bill for the general contractor who, as a rule, has to warrant such things for a year. Lumber "shrinkage is the main cause of nail pops. Even though I will go back an do the touch up at no cost, I assure you the painter will not repaint for free. It doesn't take much of my time to fix the "pops", but the repaint can be quite costly....


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Been in the field for 12 years on lots of projects now with dozens of GCs and dozens of architects. Never once heard or seen of glueing gyp to studs, but if that's your bag, all the power to you....

speaking of bills, I would imagine the cost of all that glue and the time to install it accounts for a good portion of the painting nail pop fixes, since, as you said, you repair them for free...


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I don't want to offend anyone, but I did my whole house (new framing AND drywall) with no adhesive (and screws) by myself, and I have not had one 'pop' anywhere. I also mudded and painted by myself.

DM


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## TrapperL (Jul 23, 2011)

BJBAtlanta, I'm aware that building methods are different all across the nation. Even in San Antonio you can give a set of plans to 10 different builders, all will be built different, and all will be correct- I'm aware of that. But I gotta ask, what kind of lumber are ya'll having to work with that shrinks? Everything here is kiln dried to 19% moisture meaning there is no shrinkage of the lumber. It might grow a hair from absorbing some moisture but shrinkage-no. I've fixed thousands of nail pops over the years from others work and usually I find the nail is not set properly leaving the drywall loose causing the pop. Every one I've ever done if I put a screw on each side of the pop, the nail is no longer in contact with the drywall and requires setting.

In regards to adhesive use with drywall. Sounds like a few of you have never been asked to install a sound proof drywall. You CAN NOT use any metal fastener at all as it transmits the sound vibrations thru the wall. It's strictly a glue process and you have to know what yer doing or it'll bite ya. I'd bet our bud in Atlanta has seen this.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

AGWhitehouse said:


> Glue sheetrock? WOW... I can't imagine the curse words people must use that have to renovate the panels you've hung. Seems very excessive to save yourself from a few nail pops...


I'm surprised that you are surprised---DW glue is pretty common.


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

kevsprojects said:


> I know I know - its all about the screw thing :no:, but I'm faster with a good weighted hammer and a pouch full of nails. I cant really explain that but I think its related to a back operation I had 4 years ago. The pushing force of the screw gun really torques my back, yet I can swing the hammer with ease!
> Guess I'm one of the ancient nailers!


 
you might be using a bad screw gun. some older screw guns are a bear to engage the clutch . also you only need regular 1-1/4 bugles corse thread prevered with 5/8th or 1/2 inch . nailing in the field i would not reccomend for a begginer anyways . you need to double the nails and its alot easier to dmage the paper. you could use a few nails to hold the sheet up though on the upper perimeter.


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## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

Your right about the bad screw gun. I acquired it (and many more tools) from my father-in-law who passed away a few years ago. I think it had been put through the ringer! I remember him hanging allot of drywall in years back. I have watched videos of guys pre-tacking with nails. That could be helpful!


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Lumber i kiln dried here too, but not always dry throughout the framing process. It may sit on the lumber yard and the job site in the rain for days on end , depending on the time of year. Framing may be done when it's rainy and the house may not get dried in right away. Lumber can absorb a lot of moisture. It's not every house, but a lot of them, especialyy in the winter time in this area that can be affected. Once the heat i turned on, everything starts drying out.
As for cost, using glue doesn't take any more time. While one guy is cutting the sheet, the other is gluing the studs or joists. Average house will take perhaps $120.00 for glue. 
And TrapperL is correct. the drywall still has to be pushed tight to the framing member for either a screw or nail to hold properly. Not doing so will cause pops for sure even with glue...


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> I'm surprised that you are surprised---DW glue is pretty common.


Surprised for sure. I'm surprised it's condsidered standard practice. Renovating a space where all gwb was glued seems a nightmare, especially when the reason is a couple of nail pops. But in America, the land of "built to last 20 years and then bulldoze it for a new building", it all seems reasonable.


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