# Map vs Propane for Soldering



## smata67 (Mar 9, 2009)

I have a propane set up. I'm going to need to do some solder work on 1/2" copper. Some straight lengths, a few elbows, a ball valve. Will my propane setup do or will I have to upgrade to MAP? Looks like the MAP setup runs about $40. Also, how do I solder an elbow, won't the first joint loosen up when I heat the fitting to make the second one?


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Smata--It's O.K. to use MAP gas with a regular propane torch. Map may shorten the life of the torch a bit --but it doesn't sound like you use it a lot anyway.

I do suggest that you use MAP gas --it's so much faster and safer.

When soldering--never solder just one side of a fitting. Make up as much of the piping as you can--then start soldering from one fitting to the next and so on --the heat from the last joint will pre-heat the next one if they are close enough.

secure the pipe with straps before you start to solder--you don't want the hot joints moving as you work.


Use flux on the pipe as well as the fitting--DO NOT wipe the hot fittings --you will likely jiggle the pipe while the solder is still liquid--and spoil the bond. Wipe the pipes when they are cool enough to touch.

Oaty 'easy flow' is a good plumbing solder.

heat one side of a fitting and push the solder in from the opposite side.

When the 'cold' side will melt the solder you know that you have the pipe hot enough.

Good luck there--ask more questions if you have them---there are a few good pro plumbers who will chime in---(and correct me if I goofed up)----Mike---


----------



## O'Leaky (May 19, 2010)

To start, its MAPP gas. With that being said, propane is fine and probably better for a DIY. MAPP gas burns hotter and can lead to overheating quicker.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A valid point--burn flux is not so good!

(I never could spell!)


----------



## O'Leaky (May 19, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> A valid point--burn flux is not so good!
> 
> (I never could spell!)


Thought someone would appreciate a joke. :laughing:


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Darn Midwesterners--Goofy flat land jokes!!!


----------



## smata67 (Mar 9, 2009)

Good tips. I'm feeling a bit more confident now. I did solder some pipes about 12 years to connect tub fixtures and they are pretty much the only pipe work I have done in this house that doesn't need to be redone. I was worried that I might not be able to get enough heat onto the ball valve fittings, that a hotter gas might heat things up better and reduce the chances of damaging the teflon seat on the ball. Any tricks to prevent this from happening?


----------



## O'Leaky (May 19, 2010)

smata67 said:


> Good tips. I'm feeling a bit more confident now. I did solder some pipes about 12 years to connect tub fixtures and they are pretty much the only pipe work I have done in this house that doesn't need to be redone. I was worried that I might not be able to get enough heat onto the ball valve fittings, that a hotter gas might heat things up better and reduce the chances of damaging the teflon seat on the ball. Any tricks to prevent this from happening?


I like to wrap a damp towel around the side of the valve I'm not soldering on, but trust me, the valve can take the heat.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Like o;Leaky said--the valve won't be damaged during installation. Sound like you are ready to start!

---Mike---


----------



## Random Browser (Jan 26, 2021)

O'Leaky said:


> To start, its MAPP gas. With that being said, propane is fine and probably better for a DIY. MAPP gas burns hotter and can lead to overheating quicker.


I need to replace Water heater lines. I have copper flex lines. Cold is one end screwed to water heater nipple, other end soldered into a valve. Then, the other side of the valve is soldered onto a few inches copper coming out of the wall. I'm guessing there is an 90 soldered too the supply line running down the wall stud. I'm afraid of overheating the pipe and loosening the joint inside the wall. I've never soldered a copper joint before.


----------



## dj3 (Apr 27, 2020)

Random Browser said:


> I need to replace Water heater lines. I have copper flex lines. Cold is one end screwed to water heater nipple, other end soldered into a valve. Then, the other side of the valve is soldered onto a few inches copper coming out of the wall. I'm guessing there is an 90 soldered too the supply line running down the wall stud. I'm afraid of overheating the pipe and loosening the joint inside the wall. I've never soldered a copper joint before.


This is an old post, but your question is something that can happen everyday.
Before you solder, watch some instructional videos on youtube.
Then get all your supplies, tools and material together.
Start experimenting soldering in the back yard before you tackle the water heater.


----------

