# Installing fixed glass



## Tony B (Jun 24, 2016)

I'm getting quite a bit of contradictory information about how to install fixed glass windows in a wood frame, particularly the sealant used. Some say silicone, some say latex, some say butyl glazing tape. Some say outside only, some say inside and outside. Details about the bottom sill also vary. Does anyone have experience installing fixed glass window?

Thanks.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Years ago glaziers used glaziers putty, which would dry out in many years and need replaced.

The local glaziers used silicon sealer in a tube the last time I had any replaced, they ran a tiny bead on the frame, then installed the pane.

Then a larger bead around the outside of the glass, and used a plastic scraper (ice scraper), to bevel the silicon bead at a 45, and remove any excess.

was told to not touch it for 24 hours, and it was good to go. 

The windows have held very well for 20+ years now with no loosening .

ED


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

It depends on what type of glass you want to install . Any pics ?


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## chrispaul (Jun 24, 2016)

When installing the glass, you can either seal it with glazing tape or with caulking. But if you use caulking, make sure it is compatible with the seal used by the insulating-glass manufacturer. In this case, we used caulk and applied it against the vertical face of each integral stop.

Building fixed-glass windows is simpler than you might think. After making and installing the window frames, a bead of caulk is run around interior stops and the double-pane insulating glass is set in the opening and held in place with wooden stops.


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## Tony B (Jun 24, 2016)

Sorry for the delay in response; I was having a lot of trouble posting.

The glass I'm installing is 1/2" double pane argon filled low-E. I can send a pic if need be. 

I've been told (by the glass manufacturer, among others) that some silicone sealants can compromise the seal on insulated units, but the local company I bought the glass from say they use 100% silicone all the time, applying it to the outside of the glass before nailing in the stop. They do not apply any sealant on the interior stop, but the manufacturer says you should.

I've done this twice before, once using silicone and once using latex caulk. I had a failure with the latex after 10 years, but not sure the latex was the problem.

Two websites and an old glass association (2009) glazing manual recommend using butyl glazing tape, inside and out, so I've about decided to go that route, although the glass manufacturer didn't think much of the idea. Has anyone out there ever used butyl glazing tape?

http://www.finehomebuilding.com/1981/09/01/installing-fixed-windows

http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Vertical_Glazing_Repair.php


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

Butyl tape can be tricky to work with . It often won't stick to the wood frame . It also isn't very forgiving if you use the wrong thicknesses (glass _or _the tape itself) . 

Depending on your skill level with a caulking gun , silicone can be quicker easier ,( & providing you use the right color) , more cosmetically appealing .

"Neutral-cure" silicone is the only caulk that _won't_ void most IG seal warranties . Regular silicone , (the kind that smells like vinegar) _will_ degrade the airspace seal .


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## Tony B (Jun 24, 2016)

Thanks, I wasn't familiar with neutral-cure silicone, but will check it out. Not sure how available it is. 

Do you use it inside and out, or just exterior. I've heard recommendations both ways.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

I use it interior & exterior almost every day . 

I buy from a big glass supplies outfit (CR Laurence). I honestly don't know if the silicone from Menards/Lowes/etc would be neutral cure or not .

A local medium to large glass company should have a few colors on hand .


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## Tony B (Jun 24, 2016)

Thanks! The glass company I bought it from said to apply it exterior only, saying that to apply on both surfaces prevents it from moving with variation in temperature. I've also heard applying to both makes it much harder to remove, should that ever be necessary. But the glass manufacturer said definitely apply to both interior & exterior. I don't claim to know.

On the web, a Home Depot rep, and several others, say that GE Silicone II is neutral cure. http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Silic...18?bvrrp=1999/reviews/product/2/100663318.htm


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

I simply never buy N/C silicone from HD so I really don't know . 

Not sure why the glass co told you _not _to apply to both sides . Basic understanding would say the glass needs to be secured on both sides ......

Cutting loose a silicone seal (sometime down the road) is usually _much_ easier than other glazing materials . 

I usually apply a small bead to the seating surface , install glass , then clean up any squeeze-out . _Then_ , I apply a "cap-seal" around the glass to sash perimeter .........as _small_ a bead as possible .


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## Tony B (Jun 24, 2016)

Do you use any kind of "weeping" system on the bottom sill/stop? Some of the websites recommend it. 

"One final consideration for a high-quality glazing job is the need for weep openings. The purpose of weeping a glazing system is to allow any water that penetrates the system to escape. If it remains trapped it will tend to undermine the sealants and could diffuse into the sealed glass unit causing fogging (failure type #4 above)." 

From: http://inspectapedia.com/Energy/Vertical_Glazing_Repair.php See glazing detail.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

No disrespect , but you _may _be over thinking this project ...... I rarely have that problem , in _anything I'm involved with !!! :biggrin2:

_I've never drilled weep holes . _Theoretically , _water shouldn't penetrate the caulk ........

Wood windows(of any kind)_ rarely _hold up well under high moisture conditions . The thing that is recommended for _any _glazing application is to set the IG on "setting blocks". They are usually 1/8" black rubber/pvc material that keep the IG from actually sitting in any water that may accumilate . They also help the sash dry out quicker .


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## Tony B (Jun 24, 2016)

Thanks. I plan to use setting blocks.


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