# Mudding over a crack that keeps reappearing



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

You'll have better results if you tape the crack - like you would a drywall joint.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

mark sr said:


> You'll have better results if you tape the crack - like you would a drywall joint.



thanks! that is what I was thinking as well (the punk that did a bad job on the texture, etc took all my tape). Initially I thought if I use tape it might still crack since maybe the wall is contracting/expanding too much do to some weird issue behind the drywall.

Should I just try the tape/mud and see what happens?


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

I would V it out a little so the mud goes in the crack when you tape. I prefer paper tape for repairs like this because it's thinner. Takes less mud to cover it in the second and most likely last coat.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Paper tape also has a better track record than the sticky tape [mesh] The latter needs a setting compound applied over it for it to preform well.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

mark sr said:


> Paper tape also has a better track record than the sticky tape [mesh] The latter needs a setting compound applied over it for it to preform well.


Thanks. I had bought the mesh tape but returned it and bought the paper tape after reading your comment.

Do you think the paper tape with joint compound will work as well as mesh tape with setting compound? I almost decided to keep the mesh tape and get setting compound but can try the paper tape with joint (since I have a lot of joint leftover).


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

As long as there is a thin coat of j/c under all the tape there shouldn't be any issues. When the sticky tape first came out many were using it with regular j/c ..... and then having to go back within the first year to make repairs where it had failed. It does do a lot better when a setting compound is applied over it. Whether or not it's better - I can't say.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

mark sr said:


> As long as there is a thin coat of j/c under all the tape there shouldn't be any issues. When the sticky tape first came out many were using it with regular j/c ..... and then having to go back within the first year to make repairs where it had failed. It does do a lot better when a setting compound is applied over it. Whether or not it's better - I can't say.


 Thanks,
I'll apply j/c then put the paper tape over it then apply j/c over that!


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Be sure to let the bed/tape coat dry first! If you apply mud over tape that isn't dry the weight of the fresh mud can pull the tape loose.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

mark sr said:


> Be sure to let the bed/tape coat dry first! If you apply mud over tape that isn't dry the weight of the fresh mud can pull the tape loose.



Thanks. so out of curiosity I checked this afternoon when I got home and the crack is gone and instead the crack got raised up just a little where I can feel it with my fingers. It seems in the mornings the crack appears and afternoon it bubbles out. That is in line with what I said about the paint having bubbled up maybe 1/8th inch wide all along the crack. It had been like that when I bought the house.

Is sanding down the crack and making a V and using tape and j/c going to eliminate this issue? Is there something bigger I need to look at like tearing out drywall and reinforcing? I don't know if it has anything to do with that window, I suspect it was an addition not original to the house but I don't know. I could also use latex caulking but then the paint will still stretch/compress.

Here is a picture I just took. I haven't done anything else since Sunday and was going to try tape, etc but just observed the crack is raised this afternoon.


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Press on the Sheetrock near where the crack is. Is it moving at all? If it’s moving the crack will keep coming back. You will have to put some screws in to secure it. Learned this the hard way


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

BayouRunner said:


> Press on the Sheetrock near where the crack is. Is it moving at all? If it’s moving the crack will keep coming back. You will have to put some screws in to secure it. Learned this the hard way
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks, now that its dark and cooling down just a little i can see the crack starting to reappear. So something is definitely shifting with the thermal changes throughout the day.

I notice the baseboard is just a tiny bit bowed out right where the crack is up along the wall.

When I push really hard with my thumb on either side of the crack I can get it to move in and out just a small amount but I have to push quite hard. The behavior I see is the crack appearing, and then the opposite (when its hot) where the crack vanishes but bubbles up as the two pieces of separated (via the crack) drywall butt up.

I'm not sure if screws are the fix? it seems the motion isn't on and off from the stud but more like two plates butting up bowing out and then separating a little (hence the crack showing up). I don't know if this points to an issue behind the drywall that needs to be fixed such as studs/etc or if it's just drywall not fastened correctly to studs and is perhaps bowing when things expand with heat from the day time?

Here is a photo from this evening showing the crack reappearing and the slightest amount of bow on the baseboard.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

When in doubt - I add a screw 
I'd start by sanding down the repair so it doesn't get built up too much. I'd then scratch out the crack a little before mudding/taping. Tape helps to bridge the gap and hide any minor movement.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

mark sr said:


> When in doubt - I add a screw
> I'd start by sanding down the repair so it doesn't get built up too much. I'd then scratch out the crack a little before mudding/taping. Tape helps to bridge the gap and hide any minor movement.





Oh ok thanks I can try that. I imagine I need to find where the studs are and see if maybe they are too far from that crack and maybe that's part of the reason things are shifting more. hmmm.


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## Todd82TA (Mar 20, 2018)

Delt with this a few times. I'm guessing this is a seam between two panels (doesn't look 90 degrees though)? 

What I would do is open it up. If it's not in between a stud, then possibly make a hole so that you can fit a piece of 1"x4" piece of wood back there, and screw it down. I'd also dig out the crack. 

Some people would cringe at my methods, but I'm a big fan of liquid nails. I use tape mesh. But first, I would re-connect the seams (that you've now dug out) with liquid nails. I would then put the mesh tape over it, and press it in. Don't use so much that it stands proud... the crack should not. Allow the liquid nails to dry enough (perhaps a few hours), and then go over it with a trowel. 

Then do the typical 4 x 6 x 12 trowel re-applications. Sand it out... and then texture it with the $30 spray cans you can buy from Home Depot, guarantee it won't crack again.


But that's not solving the problem of why it's happening. I'm guessing thermal expansion and contraction. Do you have any issues with your insulation behind there?


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Todd82TA said:


> Delt with this a few times. I'm guessing this is a seam between two panels (doesn't look 90 degrees though)?
> 
> What I would do is open it up. If it's not in between a stud, then possibly make a hole so that you can fit a piece of 1"x4" piece of wood back there, and screw it down. I'd also dig out the crack.
> 
> ...


Thanks I'm not sure there is a seam where that crack was but there is a stud exactly there. I added more screws and the problem seems to be gone.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

BayouRunner said:


> Press on the Sheetrock near where the crack is. Is it moving at all? If it’s moving the crack will keep coming back. You will have to put some screws in to secure it. Learned this the hard way
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk



Thanks you were definitely correct. There is a stud right there and I added more screws on both sides of the crack. I put a light layer of mud to see how it holds up after the screws were added and it no longer cracks or bubbles up right there. I checked in the morning, afternoon and evening.

The only bad thing... I checked outside in that area to make sure there wasn't anything funny happening before I put more screws up. I didn't see anything except the rafter tail directly in line with that window had hidden termite damage. That damage ran inside the house into the attic. It seems like old damage and most of that rafter is still providing structural strength and no new frass has fallen. It must have been missed by the termite inspection last year when I bought it but I guess I'm going to tent the house soon. Fixing one problem uncovers many others :vs_mad:


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks I'm not sure there is a seam where that crack was but there is a stud exactly there. I added more screws and the problem seems to be gone.


On a bad day, you have two studs side by each other that are not nailed together and they move independent of each other.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> On a bad day, you have two studs side by each other that are not nailed together and they move independent of each other.


That's interesting! Thanks! With this old 1950s house it wouldn't surprise me.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> That's interesting! Thanks! With this old 1950s house it wouldn't surprise me.


You can check and see if the stud happens to be 3" wide. if so drive some screws thru the drywall and secure them together


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks you were definitely correct. There is a stud right there and I added more screws on both sides of the crack. I put a light layer of mud to see how it holds up after the screws were added and it no longer cracks or bubbles up right there. I checked in the morning, afternoon and evening.
> 
> The only bad thing... I checked outside in that area to make sure there wasn't anything funny happening before I put more screws up. I didn't see anything except the rafter tail directly in line with that window had hidden termite damage. That damage ran inside the house into the attic. It seems like old damage and most of that rafter is still providing structural strength and no new frass has fallen. It must have been missed by the termite inspection last year when I bought it but I guess I'm going to tent the house soon. Fixing one problem uncovers many others :vs_mad:




It’s called the joy of Home ownership. Lol Found some Carpenter ants myself the other day. Sawdust pile gave them away


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