# Soundproofing basement ceiling with Roxul



## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

ive been told that with Roxul you are supposed to use a batt that is slightly wider than the opening, and slightly press in the edges to install it, because that makes it hold itself up. im no pro, but it makes sense in my head.


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## alexlacelle (Feb 27, 2012)

TrailerParadise said:


> ive been told that with Roxul you are supposed to use a batt that is slightly wider than the opening, and slightly press in the edges to install it, because that makes it hold itself up. im no pro, but it makes sense in my head.


Yes that's what I have here. The batt is slightly wider, however because the batts are 24 inches wide they're sagging


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

24" oc, what size are the joists ? what is the room above ?

anyway. don't expect much soundproofing whit that 3".


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## alexlacelle (Feb 27, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> 24" oc, what size are the joists ? what is the room above ?
> 
> anyway. don't expect much soundproofing whit that 3".


The room above is a living room upstairs. I'll have to measure a joist. You say that 3'' won't offer much soundproofing, what would be better?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No insulation hangers?


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## alexlacelle (Feb 27, 2012)

I ended up putting it in today with strapping. I had a ton of 3 inch wide pine that I took down during the demo that I saved for this. It worked pretty well. Overall I'm happy I soundproofed. Even at 3 inches it made a noticeable difference.

Thanks!


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

3" is fine; figs. 12, 13; http://www.certainteed.com/resources/Guide for Residential Sound Control.pdf

Roxul is even better, twice as dense as most f.g.; http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA-EN/pdf/SafenSound.pdf

Did you use the Safe-n-sound, or comfort-batt; http://www.roxul.com/residential/residential+technical+data

Quieter and greener; http://www.buildinggreen.com/auth/a...ial-and-Commercial-Insulation/?&printable=yes

Gary


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Lemkie said:


> The room above is a living room upstairs. I'll have to measure a joist. You say that 3'' won't offer much soundproofing, what would be better?





Lemkie said:


> I ended up putting it in today with strapping. I had a ton of 3 inch wide pine that I took down during the demo that I saved for this. It worked pretty well. Overall I'm happy I soundproofed. Even at 3 inches it made a noticeable difference.


sure, 3" will help. but it will not eliminate all sound transfer. if it were me, i would at least fill the cavity. so if you had a 8" joist, put in 8" of roxul. 

i used to live in a modern condo. it had flexicore ceilings http://www.undergroundhomes.com/flexicore.htm
with a layer on concrete on top. i could still hear some things coming from above.


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## alexlacelle (Feb 27, 2012)

GBR in WA said:


> 3" is fine; figs. 12, 13; http://www.certainteed.com/resources/Guide for Residential Sound Control.pdf
> 
> Roxul is even better, twice as dense as most f.g.; http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA-EN/pdf/SafenSound.pdf
> 
> ...


I used the Roxul Safe-n-sound. I thought about doubling it up but the research I did suggested it wasn't worth the extra money.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Good you did not double it up; "A signiﬁcant advantage is made by adding higher density insulation in addition to the improvements that can be achieved with other
sound improving methods such as resilient channels, *air space depth,* or additional layers of wall board.Graph 1, #7: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:4Xm4V72zcqYJ:www.certainteed.com/resources/30-49-109%2520Insulation%2520Guide.pdf+cover+paper+faced+fiberglass+insulation+in+garage+rafters&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESgVxzckgJMdEIaG-b7SkEtA3-0aJrAttHdUxTlBRl6AqKdFTeMaW67MjDOgUO0O1g9uEObUAFFkz0B9gxoV3iBmiPTVpjC4lZCec2PTJfyJPMcXu0Ixj_cLOm2Vq35p5WQFwC-N&sig=AHIEtbTZDXWh2g1LzATpsMKTgMsl7TruSQ

Roxul recommends the one you used (2.5# density) over the Comfort batt (>2# density) also. The only thing to do better would be the resilient channels rather than wood strapping...

Gary


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## alexlacelle (Feb 27, 2012)

Gary in WA said:


> Good you did not double it up; "A signiﬁcant advantage is made by adding higher density insulation in addition to the improvements that can be achieved with other
> sound improving methods such as resilient channels, *air space depth,* or additional layers of wall board.Graph 1, #7: https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...QFwC-N&sig=AHIEtbTZDXWh2g1LzATpsMKTgMsl7TruSQ
> 
> Roxul recommends the one you used (2.5# density) over the Comfort batt (>2# density) also. The only thing to do better would be the resilient channels rather than wood strapping...
> ...


I'm actually going with a drop ceiling in the space. I ordered the Armstrong 5/8 tiles that say they absorb 60% of noise. Seems a little high for a drop ceiling tile but we'll see. Between those and the Safe-n-sound the sound should be half decently stopped I'm hopping.


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