# Wood Fence Post through Driveway



## MechanicalDVR (Jul 4, 2007)

They make a galvanized spike you can drive into the ground that has a socket on the end that holds a 4"x4" post. The whole thing is about 3' long. The other option is just to make a hole in the pavement for the post to past through.


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## WNYcarpenter (Jun 19, 2007)

I would think an 8" auger would cut through the asphalt without much trouble. You can rent a two man auger for around $40 for a half day.


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## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

You could have the conrete core drilled and a post set like what is done for parking bollards. [the round post ya see to keep ya from running into walls etc.]

I would check with some people in your area that specialize in parking gates.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

How big is each gate section (one big or two half sections). That will determine how rigid the posts will have to be.

There are many lightweight post systems that will stay plumb and allow the gates to clear for a week or two, but you really need a sustantial post to resist the swinging, wind and impact when the soil gets wet. - 1/4" of lean could mean 1/2" to 1" drop at the end of the gate if it is short.

You are probably looking at a square steel tube or a pipe section set in concrete if you want to make it last. The trouble of getting a hole is about the same for most posts.


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## SecretSquirrel (Jun 22, 2007)

A lot of good suggestions there but be advised that whatever you do next to the house, you may run into the footing. The footing depth depends on your location and what local codes dictate. Just wanted to mention that before you start drilling or attempting to pound something into the ground. And while we're on the subject it wouldn't hurt to get ULOCO (underground utility/cable locater service - it's free!!!) to make sure there are no interferences in the spots that you want to drill.


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

I have the same situation happening right now. Get a concrete to wood post connector. It is a galvanized bracket that holds a 4x4 (or 6x6). You drill, with a masonry bit into the concrete a few inches down. Then pound the anchor into the hole and tighten with a nut. Place your post on top. Or, like your friend suggests, if you don't want to mess with concrete drilling, just get a couple of 6-7" lag bolts and screw through the post and into the house. Just make sure your lags are not too long or you might go through some drywall on the other side. Stick with 6-7", or at least enough to go through the post and a coulpe inches into the house. 

The lags would be the easiest method if you don't want to go out and purchase a drill bit.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

So you are answering a thread a year & a half old just to promote your own site?

That's called SPAM


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## TherylMcCoy (Feb 5, 2011)

*not spam, info!*

Information never expires my friend. I was glad to come across this thread on the web as it helped me out. 

Thanks for the info! :thumbsup:


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

A post that is not one piece going relatively deep into the ground is going to have trouble supporting a gate. A spiked socket in the ground will probably not hold the post steady.

For a gate hinged right up against the house, fastening the post to the house is a good idea. Either there should be several fastening points including some near the top of the post, or the fastenings should include screws that hit a stud in the house wall.


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## helgymatt (Mar 18, 2008)

Here is what I did - Got an hammer drill with 1/2" bit. Drilled a ton of holes to make a circle big enough to get a post auger through. Then, I took a sledge hammer and some rail spikes to bust out the concrete. Hard job for sure, but much cheaper then getting a hole bored in concrete. I then set the post and filled the hole with concrete.


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