# Help With Foundation For 7x7 Rubbermaid Shed



## Sean Price

Bear with me here.. not a DIY but looking to learn a little at a time here! 

Purchased a 7x7 Rubbermaid Shed with flooring included but directions(and this forum) bring to my attention the need for a stable floor in addition to that included flooring. 

Directions for the base show... 86L x 84 W


Now what does that translate into in terms of building a wooden frame? i.e. if I just buy 4 2x4 8' how much would I need to cut off of each one to make it 86L x 84W ?


My thinking is this.. 

1. Buy 9 paver stones and set them up in 3 lines, left, middle, and right.. 
2. Build the wooden frame to the directions stated size of 86Lx84W
3. Throw 2 pieces of 3/4"s 4x8 PT plywood over that
4. build shed and throw on top of that.. 


1. Any ideas on how to best make the paver stones level? 
2. No idea on how to size the wooden frame to fit 86Lx84W ??
3. How exactly do I build the wooden frame?


Appreciate any and all thoughts on this!



oNe


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## joecaption

Need at least 4 rows not three.
Need at least 2 X 6's not 2 X 4's.
Only need one layer of Advantech 3/4 T&G subflooring.
An 8' 2 X is 96" long and 1-1/2" thick, just subtract 7" from two pieces for the long sides to come up with the 86".


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## Knucklez

when you clear away the soil, be sure to put landscape fabric down and a few inches of gravel. gravel is like a desert for mice.. they'll go elsewhere. gravel should extend a bit past the roof drop line.


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## windowguy

does gravel also deter groundhogs?.. i've been battling g-hogs for a decade under my shed.. just thinking about if there is ever a next time what i would lay down BEFORE the shed goes up..


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## Sean Price

In the end, I decided to just K.I.S.S. this..(with help of a friend)

We each corner.... built a treated wood foundation, Put 4 2x4's together and threw some 2x4's in the middle, slapped some treated plywood on top and called it a day! Leveled it by adding pavers on as needed and with foundation on top, built the shed!

Started at 8am, and by 12:30pm we were eating our grilled celebratory steaks!


Good Stuff!

oNe


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## rjniles

So much for listening to any advice:no:


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## Sean Price

rjniles said:


> So much for listening to any advice:no:


Unfortunately time and $$$ were of the essence.. 

It was all great advise and I would have loved to be able to follow it but things were getting out of hand.. i.e. $600 for the shed, another $100 for the foundation.. and maybe another $100-200 for the clearing of the land, and gravel and all that.. 

However $$ issues aside it became more of a TIME thing as in it needed to get done YESTERDAY...


My apologies..


oNe


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## windowguy

where i live that would be a new housing complex for groundhogs... report back to us in a year...


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## concretemasonry

Some areas have requirements for anchoring the light sheds because of wind problems. - It is not unusual to see some windstorm (only 50-60 mph) damage where a shed hits a near by home and causes damage, especially if it is a car or sliding door to a patio. The insurance is a necessity and tough to sort out and can take a long time to get settled.

It is even worse with a real storm or tornado. - Just ask Dorothy and Toto from Kansas.


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## Sean Price

concretemasonry said:


> Some areas have requirements for anchoring the light sheds because of wind problems. - It is not unusual to see some windstorm (only 50-60 mph) damage where a shed hits a near by home and causes damage, especially if it is a car or sliding door to a patio. The insurance is a necessity and tough to sort out and can take a long time to get settled.
> 
> It is even worse with a real storm or tornado. - Just ask Dorothy and Toto from Kansas.


I used 4 in screws along the edge of the shed into the wood platform.. 

What else should I do? Inside the shed slightly inward from each corner there is about a 1 1/2 gap circle as if to suggest to use that as anchoring points..

However I am not sure what exactly to use or put in there?

suggestions?


oNe


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## concretemasonry

The screws are really not anchors. They only keep the box square.

You need something that attaches it to the ground.

Usually, a concrete pad is used and it is more durable, especially with heavy, dirty garden tools.

Dick


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## tribe_fan

Sean Price said:


> I used 4 in screws along the edge of the shed into the wood platform..
> 
> What else should I do? Inside the shed slightly inward from each corner there is about a 1 1/2 gap circle as if to suggest to use that as anchoring points..
> 
> However I am not sure what exactly to use or put in there?
> 
> suggestions?
> 
> 
> oNe


I purchased some 1/2 inch threaded rod - drove them through the holes in the floor and about 4 feet into the ground, then used washers and bolts. (put the washers and bolts on before you pound). I also bought some L brackets and reenforced the sides to the bottom.


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## doeweb

Hi there, your specs and thoughts are exactly in line with what I need to get done. I have the same 7x7 shed that needs to get setup. Are you still happy with the decisions you made in implementing?


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## ront02769

joecaption said:


> Need at least 4 rows not three.
> Need at least 2 X 6's not 2 X 4's.
> Only need one layer of Advantech 3/4 T&G subflooring.
> An 8' 2 X is 96" long and 1-1/2" thick, just subtract 7" from two pieces for the long sides to come up with the 86".


Quick note, if dealing with PT wood, I would ALWAYS check an end for square (since they often aren't) and then measure from there, would never use the subtraction approach because at least in my area they are also often NOT 96", never less but often 96 1/4 to 96 1/2.


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## off2oz2

*7x7 shed*

I recently purchased 2 of these sheds. i live in the foothills in Northern CA. I have been picking up free wood pallets to make the sub-floor/foundation by taking the pallets apart and using the wood. I currently have 10 pallets. Do you think the wood taken from the pallets would work in making the sub-floor?

Thank you,


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## billtech

1) There should have been something in the instructions about anchoring the building to the ground. With the current construction, the whole thing, floor and all, could blow away.
2) As the inadequate wood platform warps and twists over time, you will be lucky if the doors remain closable.


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