# bathroom drain stub-out what to do if glued



## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

I'm in the middle of a bathroom renovation and Im ready to remove the cabinetry. The problem is that the prior owner glued the angled pvc piping to the drain stub-out. (see the attached pics)

From the trap to the wall, its solid. I can't see any way of removing the cabinets vertically over the water supply lines without cutting the horizontal pvc drain piping. 

Is there any other way?

Is there any type of solvent, thinner, acetone, etc that can be used to unfuse the pvc piping at the stub-out? Or...should I just go ahead and cut the piping at the wall?

If I have to cut the piping, can I use a reciprocating saw and cut it flush with the wall, and then glue a new threaded pipe leading to the drain stub-out?

Im kind of stuck till I come up with a solution.. so any thoughts would be appreciated.

(I tried attaching a pic...but every pic method I did was too big a size for this forum... )


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

Wiscbldr said:


> I'm in the middle of a bathroom renovation and Im ready to remove the cabinetry. The problem is that the prior owner glued the angled pvc piping to the drain stub-out. (see the attached pics)
> 
> From the trap to the wall, its solid. I can't see any way of removing the cabinets vertically over the water supply lines without cutting the horizontal pvc drain piping.
> 
> ...


with out seeing hard to say but i think i know what your trying to do..cut it and glue another adapter on ..you could use a sawzall but i use mini hack saw...


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

It is possible to remove a pipe from a fitting---there is a cutter that fits a regular drill and will neatly cut the pipe out of the fitting without damage--

Try that picture again---


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Thanks for the info...

I tried to post the pics many times, believe me.. I tried zipped, compressed, jpg, bmap, word doc, a bunch of stuff..heh.. but even compressed, my pic kept coming back larger then what this forum would allow (100 kb). 

Anyway, the drain trap I can remove, but... all other piping that goes from the trap to the wall, into the wall, down inside the wall, into the basement, etc..is all glued solid. The only way I can remove the cabinetry is to remove the section thats glued solid to the wall stub-out. 

So its either cut it out or drill it out (thanks for that info Mike..Ill look into that).


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## NitrNate (May 27, 2010)

you need to resize the image to like an 800 x 600 jpeg in any editing software, even microsoft paint will do the trick. once resized, then upload again.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Ok, Ive attached a picture that I sized down to try to get it to fit.

I also relooked over the possibility of moving the drain to a straight vertical next to the water source pipes and it wont work because of the H/vac system under the floor.

However, Im thinking now that I may be able to cut the cpvc water piping and push it down far enough that if I cut the water drain piping at the pipe before the coupling that goes into the wall, I might be able to slide the cabinet out from the wall without lifting it up to remove it. Worst case scenario would be that I have to still cut the drain piping flush to the wall and use a clean up Ram bit to clean out the stub-out before putting on a new insert.

Q: Is there any problem using a threaded coupling close to the wall. I know the trap is threaded piping, but the other piping leading to the wall is glued. Can I use threaded couplings for the trap and piping leading into the stub-out?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You may end up opening up the drywall and replacing the T---easy enough job and cheaper than the cutter bit---I doubt of the cutter will work for you--its designed to cut a pipe out of a fitting --not a fitting out of a fitting--
I'd stick with glued fittings myself--how often will you be moving the vanity?

When you make up the sink bottom---install the 'hard pipe' after you put the P-trap onto the tailpiece from the sink---
Then 'aim' the P-trap in the direction of the opening in the back of the cabinet----pick out the fittings that give you the best set up---Mike----


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

yes after seeing pics I would open wall and replace tee as mike said no big deal..sorry for saying you can cut flush did not realize you had fitting at wall...


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## LateralConcepts (Jun 6, 2010)

If you're removing the cabinets, I'd just cut the cabinet itself. Not the plumbing.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Well, I ended up cutting the section of pvc before the joint attached to the stub in, I also cut off the water valves 4-6 inches above the floor, and was able to push the lines down far enough into the basement to allow the cabinet to be slide out horizontally at an angle away from the wall.

I now have everything out, and since the new cabinets coming in will be in sections vs one large piece, I should be able to cut the hole in the back of the new cabinet and curl the cabinet over the existing piping to the stub out, and then allow the water lines to come up through the floor and through the new holes in the cabinet floor.

Ill need to glue on a new joint piece to connect to the new P trap threaded fittings. This is going to be a dual sink, so Ill have the left side feed to the right side, to a T, then to the trap, to the existing fittings and finally to the stub out.

If all goes right.. the plumbing aspect should be done this weekend...

And if Im really motivated, the entire project will be done in a few days as well.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

*Dry fit -final dual sink plumbing - ok?*

Ok, same project, but different question for all you plumbers...

I'm down to the final drain plumbing. Because of the way the flooring, HVAC, etc is in the basement, Ive got dual sinks being fed by one water source (basically a T for hot and cold). Ive also got the two sinks draining to one one P trap I created, and out to the wall stub-out.

The attached pic shows the "dry run" of how I will final glue everything if it looks ok to people. 

My main question is the P trap area. I had to make the P trap area a bit wider at the bottom vs a tighter loop, but its still below the stub out. 

If you see an issue, please let me know asap.. otherwise, I figure over the next few days Ill do the final pvc glue and then test for leaks, etc.

Thanks!


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

Looks good to me. My only negative comment is that you used the older style angle stop









as opposed to the newer 1/4 turn stop.









Nitpicking to be sure, but you did ask for opinions.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Hey, no problem on the nit picking. I have those newer ones on my toilets througout the house, but I couldnt find them over the weekend when I needed them for this project. So I simply went with the older style. 

*But no issues with my mockup/dry run of what I intend to do? Thats great!

Q: Is it overkill to suggest that I pour some water down the pipes before the final glue to make sure everything will drain properly?, or is it not worth worrying about and I should go ahead and glue it and be done with it? 

Im just a worry wort that once its glued, thats it, it aint coming un done...heh..


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I have an issue---the drain pipe heading to the left hand sink looks like it is lower than the drain into the wall----

If it is lower--the pipe will always be full of water and drain very slowly---


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Mike, the height of the left hand tubing is higher then the right hand. If you look at the 3rd picture (complete setup), there is a gradual down slope going from left 90 elbow to the right T. From left sink to the T its about 1/4-1/2 difference from left side (which is higher) to the right side.. so.. it should drain from left to right..then down the t to the P trap I created. Right? (don't go by the hole cut in the cabinet sides as I cut one hole higher then the other side...look at the 3rd pic that shows the whole setup).

The diameters go from 1 1/4 at the sink, to 1 1/2 at the pvc piping to the wall which then becomes a 2 inch.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Or... are you talking about the height of the left hand inlet into the T compared to the height of the wall outlet? 

Q: does the wall outlet have to be lower or higher then the right and left hand inlet?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Wiscbldr said:


> Or... are you talking about the height of the left hand inlet into the T compared to the height of the wall outlet?
> 
> Q: does the wall outlet have to be lower or higher then the right and left hand inlet?


You got it---water goes down hill---the left sink pipe is lower than the house drain--so it will always be full of water--

Let me think of a solution---that house drain is a bit high.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Do you have any 1 1/4" P traps on site? Let me know--I have an hour before work---might get this done in that time--


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Does the wall stub out have to be lower then the T where the R & L side meet?

On the left hand side I have that 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 reduce up as high up on that sink drain as high as I can get it. Im afraid that if I make the right side T higher the water wont flow from left to right.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

No.. theyre all 1 1/2. Theres no rush.. Im not going to finish glueing this till I know for sure its right.

If this has to sit for another day, thats ok.. I just want it done right, once, so I dont have to rip it apart again.

I think the part that pisses me off is that I had everything to the point where I could have opened the wall, cut off that old piece that goes to to the side, and I could have put in a lower straight wall stub out. But that idea was nixed by the Mrs. (Opening up the wall..because the wall was opened multiple times before for electrical work).

The thought of having to undo everything, especially removing that counter top which was a pita, would really suck... but if thats the only way to do this correct, then so be it.

I think the main question I have is.. does that wall stub out have to be lower then that left side horizontal inlet to the T?


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Another question.. Aren't push button sink drains shorter in length then pop up style? If so, couldnt I put in a push button sink drain, which would allow me push the 1 1/4-1 1/2 pvc compression adapter higher, which may be enough to get the T level higher then the wall stub out?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You can make this work right----

Pick up two--1 1/4" sink P-traps----(and two 1 1/4" trap adapters)
Install them --loosely to the sink tail pieces--

Aim them towards the wall opening---then figure out what sort of T or Y will allow the right sink to drain,

Then start assembling the piping for the left hand sink---

When making up a sink bottom--always start with the P-traps---you then have the two points of connection and then it's just a matter of filling in the middle--

Pick up a variaty of Ts and such so you have plenty of parts to play with and see what works--
T or Y will be attached to the wall outlet---so both sinks have their own drain.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

-Put a Y or T at wall.

-trap adapter and P traps at each sink.

-Aim each trap setup at Y/T at wall.

-Fill in the blanks.

...Ill play around with it today/tonight. When done, Ill get some addtl pics prior to glueing.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The trap adapter is for the new drain lines---the P-traps are the usual thin plastic trap typically used under a sink---

Once you get the P-traps on you will slap your self in the head and say," Of course--why didn't I think of this?"


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Can the same setup be done using 1 1/2 pvc? I actually had the thin plastic kitchen setup you're talking about in my hands yesterday at the store, but opted to go with the 1 1/2 pvc because of the durability.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I would use the 1 1/4" because of the shorter drop--then use a trap adaprer 1 1/4" to the 1 1/2" piping that will be the drain lines.


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

So youre talking 1 1/4 adapter at the sink, 1 1/4 inch p trap, another 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 adapter, 1 1/2 drain lines....for each side... and then a 1 1/2 Y or T at the wall stub out?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Right--I think--All PVC is 1 1/2"----the sink P-trap is the only 1 1/4" thing in the system--except the 
trap adapter --which will allow the smaller P trap to hook into the larger PVC drains--


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

Got it.. Ill start "playing around" with the piping and see what I can get to work.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You will see the answers as soon as those two P-traps are on the tail pieces---


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

*New configuration -your thoughts?*

Ok, I reconfigured the setup. 

I swear to God that after using every Y or T that I could find, and all the different angled items, this is about the only way I could get that damn right side to line up semi normal. With this setup both sides have their own P trap and feed the Y at the wall stub out. 

Please take a look at the 4 pictures and tell me what you think... 

The only question I have is, is it a problem to have that right hand side P trap do a loop to exit out. 

Otherwise, do you see any issues??

Thanks!!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Bingo---cherry-cherry-cherry--you win!!!!!!!

The water doesn't care if it goes around a corner on its way out---Congratulations--it's a drain!

I knew you would get it once you had the P-traps on the sink----Mike----


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## Wiscbldr (Nov 1, 2010)

hahah... NICE!!

As a part of my wanting to not take a chance, I actually poured water down it for a trial run, and it worked just fine. So an hour ago I glued all the respective parts, and tightened everything down. Ill wait till the Mrs. comes home, then take it for a trial run.

You know, after all those headaches of moving pcs around, up, down, in, out, different angles, sizes, blah, blah, ultimately, now that its all done, this actually looks fairly simple and makes more sense. 

But jeez louise, it was quite a brain fart for me for quite a while...!:whistling2:

Thanks again, Mike, for all the help. I feel much better about the way it turned out, and, unlike the last mock up, this one I can actually take apart if the P trap gets stuck, leaks, etc..

Man... I need a drink...!:thumbup:


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You have me laughing-----that's plumbing---By the time you need to do this again--you will have forgotten every thing you learned this week,

Enjoy the drink-You earned it--Mike---


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

I know it's an old thread, but I was looking for information on how to add a 2nd bathroom sink and found that post 
I have 2 questions:
1) I thought it was not code to have 2 sinks with 1 p-trap each draining into the same drain pipe?
2) How can I do - without opening the wall - to install the drain for my 2nd sink (it will be 42" center to center from the 1st one). I've read it should not be more than 30" to simply attach the 2nd sink (without p-trap) to the 1st one

Thanks


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> I know it's an old thread, but I was looking for information on how to add a 2nd bathroom sink and found that post
> I have 2 questions:
> 1) I thought it was not code to have 2 sinks with 1 p-trap each draining into the same drain pipe?
> 2) How can I do - without opening the wall - to install the drain for my 2nd sink (it will be 42" center to center from the 1st one). I've read it should not be more than 30" to simply attach the 2nd sink (without p-trap) to the 1st one
> ...


that monstrosity is not code by any means....come out of the wall with a ptrap..not that tubular garbage...then use a T fitting ontop of the trap http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-03-4281...id=1455567090&sr=8-3&keywords=tubular+drain+T and now you can run tubular connectors to each sink with an el bend to the tail pieces.. http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-10891...=1455567201&sr=8-12&keywords=tubular+drain+90

if you have the trap under one sink, try and go straight up into the tailpiece, like a double bowl kitchen sink..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

I hope you understood it was not my thread, nor my picture
But I've been doing some searches, and I read it was not OK to have 2 p-trap on 1 drain

Anyway, in my case, I'm looking at adding a 2nd bathroom sink next to the original one (but it will be *42" center to center*)
So right now, I only have 1 pipe going into the wall


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

42" is too far to run a continuous waste per the Uniform Plumbing Code that I use.
This would require 2 traps and trap arms coming from the vert, drain


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

But can I use the same pipe coming out of the wall, or I have no other choice than opening the wall?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

the correct way would to open the wall and use a double tap TY so both traps are properly vented ...now you can sneak by by using AAVs on each trap and connecting to the pipe coming out of the wall...


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

AAV?

The drain coming out of the wall won't be centered between the 2 sinks
Actually, the current sink is slightly on the left of the wall stub out. The 2nd sink will go on the right. 
So actually, the wall stub out will be in between, but ~10" from the left sink and ~30" from the right one
I will measure tonight, and make a quick sketch....


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

air admittance valves..google it..but the piping will look like crapola inside the vanities...and what about the water lines? if your replacing the vanity, to open the wall and pipe behind the wall will make it so much easier in the end...


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

OK, so here are more details:
A contractor is coming to tile the floor of my master bathroom
I’m planning to use IKEA kitchen cabinets to build a 96” long vanity with 2 sinks (and yes I know kitchen cabinets are deeper, but it’s OK, my bathroom is quite large)
The IKEA cabinet are 30” high, and they need to rest on legs or a frame
My current water lines come from the floor, underneath the current vanity. 
So my idea was to build a frame to support the cabinet (~4 ½” high and run the water lines inside that frame – should not be too difficult)

The contractor was suggesting to have his plumber to come first and cut open the floor to run the water lines under the second sink. And In the meantime, he would do what is necessary for the waste line (by the way, I think – but not sure – that my walls are made of 2 x 4s…Is it OK to run new drain pipe thru 3.5” wall studs???)
Anyway, running the water lines into the frame seems relatively easy, so think I could do it myself

Now I have to decide if I ask him to take care of the drain, or I can try to do it myself ……But I want to make sure to do It properly though. This is why I’m asking on the forum…..:wink2:


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

is the drain coming from the floor also?


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

No, drain is coming from the wall....


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

do yourself a favor and have his plumber run new waste and waters on the back wall, so you can just slide the vanity in place and all will line up and look nice...trying to balance and lift the vanity onto the water lines and then lining up the drain line on the back wall then playing with all the fittings..by the time you get done with the aggravation and cost of fittings..it would be cheaper to do it right..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Here are pictures of my current wall "stub out"
Actually, the new left sink will be approximately centered on the red valve
So it means left sink ~5" on the left of the drain pipe, and the right sink will be 37" on the right....


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

WhatRnsdownhill said:


> the correct way would to open the wall and use a double tap TY so both traps are properly vented ...now you can sneak by by using AAVs on each trap and connecting to the pipe coming out of the wall...


Would be able to draw a quick sketch showing how it should look like, and where the AAVs should be installed?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> Would be able to draw a quick sketch showing how it should look like, and where the AAVs should be installed?


for which way? behind the wall piping or 1 pipe split into 2 in the cabinet bases?


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

For the 1 pipe split into 2 under cabinet
However, I would not mind to also see how it should be inside the wall....!!


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> For the 1 pipe split into 2 under cabinet
> However, I would not mind to also see how it should be inside the wall....!!


ok, but when I get a chance, I have to draw and scan it to post...


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Cool, thanks


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

ok here it is if you can read hieroglyphics..lol the top is in the wall and the pipes to the traps would come through wall into vanity, the vent would be common to both sinks, the bottom pic a single pipe comes into the vanity and is split with the double ty with the AAV as the common vent to the sinks, the vent in the wall can stay and just hand out...ok pic didnt post hold on..


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

...........................................


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

I printed out your sketch, and I can read everything……no problem
So for the “2 sinks into 1 line” solution:
In my case, the drain line coming out of the wall will be close to the left sink (approx. 5” from the center of the sink to the center of the drain)
Thus the distance from the drain to the right sink will be approximately 37”
Is this a problem to have the left sink so close to the main drain pipe?
It also means the left sink and its p-trap will be very close to the current in-wall vent line. Should I not put the AAV closer to the right sink (and still as high as I can in the cabinet)?
And finally, what is the ideal height of both p-traps compared to the drain line coming out of the wall?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> I printed out your sketch, and I can read everything……no problem
> So for the “2 sinks into 1 line” solution:
> In my case, the drain line coming out of the wall will be close to the left sink (approx. 5” from the center of the sink to the center of the drain)
> Thus the distance from the drain to the right sink will be approximately 37”
> ...


you can offset the pipe coming out of the wall with a 45 away from the closer sink to give you room to work and just spin the double ty so the 2 ends for the traps are running parallel to the wall..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

The TY should be installed vertically, right? So with a 45 going horizontally and to the right, how do I install the TY vertical? With a 90 at the end of the 45?
The TY should be parallel to the wall, with both ends going left and right toward the p-traps, with he middle port receiving the AAV......Is that correct?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

the 45 would be at the wall pointed away from closest sink, the 45 goes into a 90 and the double tap ty on top of 90 and AAV on top of dty..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Got it :vs_bulb:.....(I think !)
So starting from the pipe that comes out of the wall:
1) 45 going away from the closest sink (so toward the right) and horizontally
2) 90 attached at the end of the 45, and going up
3) TY installed on top of the 90, both "ears" going left and right (so parallel to the wall)
4) AAV install on the center port, as high as possible
5) both "ears" going to the p-traps

Hoping the arms going to the p-traps won't be too high.....


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

correct and just try to get a slight pitch on all the pipes going back to the pipe coming through the wall..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

What is the difference between this:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_24372-143-8...=1&Ntt=mechanical+venting&state=R#reviews_tab

and this:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1


other than the $20 difference....!!!!


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

french_guy said:


> What is the difference between this:
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_24372-143-8...=1&Ntt=mechanical+venting&state=R#reviews_tab
> 
> and this:
> ...


This has come up before on this forum for discussion. I believe the mechanical type is spring operated and the other type is gravity operated. Or it's the other way around - one of the plumbers here will know and let you know which is better.

But I agree with you, they both do the same thing.

Depends on location if you can use them or not. I've seen them used in mobile homes, regular homes and RV's. Check your local code office for sure.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> What is the difference between this:
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_24372-143-8...=1&Ntt=mechanical+venting&state=R#reviews_tab
> 
> and this:
> ...


one is a piece of crap and one will work for many years without problems and lets in the correct amount of air....spend the extra money..studor vent http://www.amazon.com/Studor-20346-...F8&qid=1455732672&sr=8-1&keywords=studor+vent is the same cheaper on amazon..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

OK, I went at Home Depot and got some PVC fittings to see how it will "look like"
I will post a picture tonight to show you......


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> OK, I went at Home Depot and got some PVC fittings to see how it will "look like"
> I will post a picture tonight to show you......


should I have a few drinks first??:vs_lol:


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Not too much, otherwise you will mix straight pipes with 45 or 22.....:vs_cocktail:


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Here are the pictures....1st one is to show the assembly and 2nd one to show how it will fit in the cabinet
Is this what you explained?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

yes, that is it, if you needed it over some more , use a regular 45 and put a 3 inch or so piece between the 45 and 90..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

WhatRnsdownhill said:


> yes, that is it, if you needed it over some more , use a regular 45 and put a 3 inch or so piece between the 45 and 90..


Can i replace the 45 by a 90 if i want the TY closer to the back wall?
And can i use this to do the connection with that whole assemnly onto the drain coming out of the wall:http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-x-1-1-2-in-DWV-Flexible-PVC-Coupling-P1056-150/100058870
Or even the one with the metal jacket around it?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> Can i replace the 45 by a 90 if i want the TY closer to the back wall?
> And can i use this to do the connection with that whole assemnly onto the drain coming out of the wall:http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-x-1-1-2-in-DWV-Flexible-PVC-Coupling-P1056-150/100058870
> Or even the one with the metal jacket around it?


you can use a no hub clamp and since you will have a clamp and way to clean the pipe if need be, you can use the 2 90s together, but you try and stay away from making quick double bends like that in the drain..you probably will never have an issue..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

So you are saying i should avoid the 2x90, or you mean i should be ok?


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

french_guy said:


> So you are saying i should avoid the 2x90, or you mean i should be ok?


it should be fine....


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

wow ..just open the wall ..not a big deal.. looks like you already have an 1 1/2 vent ..so do it the better way....sorry..


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

ben's plumbing said:


> wow ..just open the wall ..not a big deal.. looks like you already have an 1 1/2 vent ..so do it the better way....sorry..


I been telling him that all along, but wanted this way, I think hes getting the plumber to move the pipes in the wall..


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Yeah, I know....
1 more question: Is it OK to cap a 1 1/2" drain line - inside a wall - with this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-101/100372302

Or I have to go with the glued PVC cap?


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

french_guy said:


> Yeah, I know....
> 1 more question: Is it OK to cap a 1 1/2" drain line - inside a wall - with this:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-Flexible-Cap-PQC-101/100372302
> 
> Or I have to go with the glued PVC cap?


 why would you want too?????


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Because I'm decommissioning an old vanity.....


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Actually, I want to cap that one off (inside the wall)


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Anybody?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Yes, you can cut and cap that inside the wall---Please use a PVC cap --primed and glued (solvent weld)---it is cheaper than a rubber cap and eliminates the possibility of a failure--


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

ben's plumbing said:


> wow ..just open the wall ..not a big deal.. looks like you already have an 1 1/2 vent ..so do it the better way....sorry..


OK, I had to put on hold this project for a while
Old vanity has been removed, and floor has been tiled
The 2 pieces of blue tape represents the axis of the sinks
The new vanity (combination of IKEA kitchen cabinet – 96” long: 15” + 24” +18” + 24” +15”) will be centered over the heat register

How should the waste line be modified to install 2 sinks (will be inside the wall)

Thanks


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

I cut open a portion of the wall. Still need to cut 1 more cavity on the right, but it gives an idea. 
How should I proceed now? Do i use this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-H-x-H-x-H-x-H-Double-Sanitary-Tee-C4835HD112/100678015
Once glued on the bottom of my existing drain (instead of the Tee), how do I attach it to the vent on the top?
My wall is 2x4 studs....Should I use stud shoes on the 2 studs I will have to drill or notch on the right side?


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Wow that 8 inch deep ptrap will work just great.... NOT


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

What do you mean???


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

french_guy said:


> I cut open a portion of the wall. Still need to cut 1 more cavity on the right, but it gives an idea.
> How should I proceed now? Do i use this:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-PVC-DWV-H-x-H-x-H-x-H-Double-Sanitary-Tee-C4835HD112/100678015
> Once glued on the bottom of my existing drain (instead of the Tee), how do I attach it to the vent on the top?
> My wall is 2x4 studs....Should I use stud shoes on the 2 studs I will have to drill or notch on the right side?


You need to put the fitting in the vertical pipe. Then drill and run the trap arms to the desired sink locations. Use nail guards when drilling within 1.5" of the stud surface.

To throw a wrench into your plan- The code I use will not accept the cross you picture and I could only put 1 lav on 1.5" pipe. So I suggest you research what your local code allows- just to be sure....


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

I really don't see how i could replace that 1.5" drain by a 2"......so does that mean i'm screwed?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

french_guy said:


> I really don't see how i could replace that 1.5" drain by a 2"......so does that mean i'm screwed?


No, it just means that you're trying to drain 2 lavs into a pipe typically sized for 1. 
The 1.5" cross will allow some water to wash across the fitting towards the other sink too.

What I'd do is use 2- 1.5" san tees stacked on top each other and pointed in opposing directions. This will affect the trap height at each lav though- one will be a couple inches higher- find a happy medium and it should work


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Great, thanks
The sink on the left is very close to the current vertical drain. The one on the right will be farther, something like 32"
Is there an angle on the horizontal hub? I will put the sanitary T for the right sink on the bottom, and the left on the top
Then that angle (over the 36") might help to compensate the height difference of the stub-out.....

By the way, gluing the 1st san Tee on the vertical drain line is easy, and the 2nd san Tee on top of the 1st one as well....But how do I connect the vent back to the top of the 2nd Tee? It would need to be lifted up, then down to slide inside the hub, but I guess it doesn't move, right?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Pitch the pipe at 1/4" per ft. That will gain you 3/4"

When you cut the vertical pipe, there is a good chance it will lift enough. If not, you should be able to find a repair coupling- it doesn't have an interior pipe stop. So it can slide up the pipe, then back down on the other piece when assembling


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## french_guy (Sep 11, 2012)

Is this repair coupling in rubber, and attach with clamp?
Or is it PVC to be glued? Might not be easy to glue on top and bottom at the same time.....:vs_worry::vs_worry::vs_worry:


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