# How/where to add this kickout flashing?



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Remove whatever siding is impacted by the rot regardless. That will probably give you the necessary clearances to install the flashing.

Once you get the flashing installed, extend that downspout into the lower gutter and turn it towards the emptying outlet.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Also the siding never should have been installed that close to the roofing.
Gutter should never be that close to the siding.
That's 100% sure way to end up with wall rot


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Use the picture in post #2 for the kickout. You should also cut back the siding material at least 1-1/2" all the way up where it meets the shingles *without* cutting into the flashing underneath. 

You should also replumb that downspout with a 45deg bend and a couple of other fittings so it dumps either right into the gutter, or into its own downpipe.


----------



## dexter80 (May 24, 2016)

joecaption said:


> Also the siding never should have been installed that close to the roofing.
> Gutter should never be that close to the siding.
> That's 100% sure way to end up with wall rot


I'll be back there in a few weeks to clean this mess up. How far should I cut the gutter away from the siding?


----------



## dexter80 (May 24, 2016)

ChuckF. said:


> Use the picture in post #2 for the kickout. You should also cut back the siding material at least 1-1/2" all the way up where it meets the shingles *without* cutting into the flashing underneath.
> 
> You should also replumb that downspout with a 45deg bend and a couple of other fittings so it dumps either right into the gutter, or into its own downpipe.


Will do, thanks! Now, i'm really assuming there **should** be flashing all along the length where siding meets roofline right? I have an oscillating tool I can use and I read somewhere a circular saw with blade set to right depth is a good option too.


----------



## dexter80 (May 24, 2016)

Windows on Wash said:


> Remove whatever siding is impacted by the rot regardless. That will probably give you the necessary clearances to install the flashing.
> 
> Once you get the flashing installed, extend that downspout into the lower gutter and turn it towards the emptying outlet.


Will do, thanks! I had to fly back to CA and I'll be back to TX in about a month for birth of son. I'll be doing this repair with a newborn in the house, haha. I'm going to have to rip out and repair all the outside rot and then **hope** this fixes it and then I've got to replace all the inside drywall too. It's amazing what just laziness and incompetence will do right??


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Hope I can explain this right.
From the outside edge of the platen to the blade on a circular saw is 1-1/2" so that can be used as a guide resting against the shingles.
I tack a piece of 1 X 6 to the wall 2" up off the shingles using screws, so there easy to remove and sit below the surface to act as a guide to rest the saw table on so you'll have more control over the depth then if you tried just running it over the siding.
I'd set the depth so there was still a little wood left to cut and finish the cut with the oscillating saw held at a right angle so I did not cut the step flashing.


----------



## dexter80 (May 24, 2016)

Hey everyone! Sorry for the crazy delay...so the solution was we removed that downspout that was coming down from the upper level and ran an end to end gutter on the upper level with downspouts at the end so no need for a downspout in the middle to the lower level.

Since then, NO water hitting the back of the house anymore.

Issue is the whole back wall is now rotted so we're saving up the 70k required to rip out that back wall and install 18' triple sliding doors so the whole back wall will be an entry to the deck.


----------



## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Your quick answer really shines.:smile: The kickout flashing has to be under the step flashing above. It would be best if you can remove the siding and flash where the facia frame butts into that wall. If there are nails there you can cut them with a long sawsall blade. Facia frame does not depend on that connection. But if all that's too much damage to the existing setup, you can apply a sheetmetal directly over the siding, slip the top under the siding joint, and bend it to drain into the kickout flashing. You just want that corner covered so water flowing down won't leak down into the joint between the facia and the siding.


----------

