# Urgent! House Cold, NO heat, pilot lit (Lennox)



## chard (Feb 3, 2009)

You're terminology seems to be off. The inducer does not blow cold air through the house. If it does you better get that heat exchanger checked ASAP. 
Also an igniter glows and does not spark. What you are describing is a spark ignition module. A poorly grounded ignition module can keep trying to lite even though the pilot is lit. The module is not sensing the pilot flame even though you can see it lit. 
It could also be a cracked flame sensor which will also not sense a pilot flame. This is a safety feature and is what will keep the main gas valve from opening so that raw gas is not being dumped into your house. That is why the spark module is continuing to try and lite even after the pilot flame is present.


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## chard (Feb 3, 2009)

BTW, don't use a gas oven to heat your home unless you want to take a dirt nap.


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## G71 (Feb 3, 2009)

What is this "manual" mode you are referring to?


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

if that is an Inducer Draft Motor (IDM) your referring to your ID is the first thing to start on a cal for heat.sounds like your not making your pressure switch that tells the main gas the ID is running.tap the pressure switch with a screwdriver handle with a call for heat see if you get the cycle to heat.make sure the tube that runs from it is clear of moisture/water,the squirrels in the cage on the ID are clear of dirt.the guys who helped you should of went right for that.....right off the bat?:whistling2:


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## G71 (Feb 3, 2009)

biggles said:


> if that is an Inducer Draft Motor (IDM) your referring to your ID is the first thing to start on a cal for heat.sounds like your not making your pressure switch that tells the main gas the ID is running.tap the pressure switch with a screwdriver handle with a call for heat see if you get the cycle to heat.make sure the tube that runs from it is clear of moisture/water,the squirrels in the cage on the ID are clear of dirt.the guys who helped you should of went right for that.....right off the bat?:whistling2:


If the pressure switch wasn't pulling in, he'd get no pilot.Also, I don't think a g8 has an inducer motor or press. switch


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## ThatGuy23 (Feb 3, 2009)

*So far, so good*

*Lennox *G8D2-55E-8 (built: NOV,91)


Ok guys im not to sure where to begin but I think we are onto something. By the way I failed to mention that the chambers are slightly rusty but I think the ignition maybe not grounded as mentioned before. the guys that came by didn't even use a volt meter or anything to test what was causing the problem, by the way I live in a town home, so no chimney, or at least from my knowledge. In regards to the manual button the I pulled out, I was refering to a honeywell auto or manual switch box to switch the furnace from just blowing all the time or automatically control the temperature through thermostat.

also I will do my best to take some pictures ASAP.
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Wish someone cann help me get the heat back or gonna have to open up the oven .


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## JohnH1 (Jan 9, 2009)

You have a natural draft furnace and yes you have a chimney the round pipe on the top exaust's the fumes up the chimney. Your problem is probly 1 of 2 things. 1st with the pilot and furnace off you can clean the flame senser it is one of the rods that the pilot flame burns on you can use steel wool to clean it. or 2nd the ignition modual is faulty and acting up. In this case it would need to be replaced. Leave the unit in auto the fan switch has nothing to do with the main burner. The only way to truly know if the ingition modual is bad is to have the correct tools and knowlage to test it.
If you do have a pro back out have him check that units for cracks in the heat exchanger. That type and that age have a tendency to crack.


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## ThatGuy23 (Feb 3, 2009)

Ok based on what you said about the flame sensor, I should still clean it even though it's one month old right? and it's so strange that I was able to get it to work sunday night randomly after putting back on the hood. I think the problem might ly with the flame sensor cable or unit itself.


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## ThatGuy23 (Feb 3, 2009)

also if I take off the pilot assembly to get to the flame sensor rod am I gonna have to remove anything else?


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## JohnH1 (Jan 9, 2009)

It look like you may have room to reach in there and lightly clean without removing. Otherwise the pilot gas line, the flame senser wire and spark wire all attach to the pilot assembly. Also make sure the ground wire on the ignition modual is secure at both ends. Just something to try before spending any money even if it is fairly new.


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## G71 (Feb 3, 2009)

Since you have established pilot flame, you need to check for 24v. to the gas valve, if you aren't comfortable doing that, it might be time to call for help. Also the pilot flame looks a bit week, did they clean the pilot orfice when they were there?


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## ThatGuy23 (Feb 3, 2009)

Not sure if they did or not... but my hunch is that they didn't. I will try to clean the flame sensor rod with steal woll and give you a heads about what happens.


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## ThatGuy23 (Feb 3, 2009)

by the way guys, how long should the flame sensor stay hot at the top and at the bottom after you cut the power off to the furnace, mines was pretty cold within a minute or less. I felt the bottom of the sensor that connects to the wire and it wasn't even warm or remotely. Could this be why the switch box is not picking up that the flame of the pilot that is lit, and if so, what is the best form of metal combination should I purchase for the next flame sensor.


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## chard (Feb 3, 2009)

ThatGuy23, you need to bite the bullet and call another service co. There's a good chance that HX is shot. And giving you advice on how to kill yourself with Carbon Monoxide is not good advice. The other co. apparently doesn't know how to use a meter. Cut your losses and call a pro.


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## ThatGuy23 (Feb 3, 2009)

Hey guys thanks for all your help and advice. I had the same guys come out to check the unit and it turnes out that the module was done and had to be replaced. Many thanks once again and keep up the good work.


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