# upside-down drywall on ceiling?



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Nope, not a code issue in a single family residence. I wish I could say I've never done it. :whistling2: Technically, it could be considered a violation because the product wasn't installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Jeez, doesn't that fancy lift you made tell you which side is up and down?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

haven't updated it to do that yet.... just dishes and windows..... too messy with the vacuum, keeps breaking things..... tnkx

DM


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

The paper on the back is not fine finish paper. You may have issue painting it. The printing will likely bleed through the paint.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

my brain don't like thinking upside-down and backwards.... and painting won't matter as i'm covering it.

DM


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Drywall isn't that expensive! Get another sheet and start over!
You can probably use the backwards piece elsewhere!

Then you won't have any finishing problems.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Do it right or do it over.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

drywall IS expensive to me, i only got the amount delivered i'd need. it DOESN'T matter as it will be completely covered, no glue, no tile, no paint! as long as it does it's job, and is code ok, this is a dead thread.

DM


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Hang it backwards and glaze coat the whole piece to slick it out. The back paper it much "coarser" than the face paper. Otherwise, no harm, no foul. I've done it a time or two myself, usually just pulling the measurement from the wrong side of the board in a hurry. If I have enough rock, I'll re-cut. If it's a toss between finishing up or going to get one more sheet, I'll hang it backwards....


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

thanks for the advice, i'll remember that if this ever happens again. but in this case, the drywall is being covered with birch panels with a dab of const. adhesive with walnut rabbeted strips i created for the occasion screwed to it alternating in a 'brick-like' pattern. i'm going to snap a line with chalk string to set screws directly into joists. it should be quite nice when i'm done. i already stained/varnished the panels and trim.

DM


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sounds interesting.......post some pics when you get done.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

will do. the walnut strips are rabbeted in 1/2" and i plan on leaving 1/8" gap for expansion. my problem right now is the center of the room. i want an opening for any future fan/light work, so i left a 24x24 square where the light is. i'm having blown insulation put in, so i also will need to put a 'box' above it. should i use drywall up there too? the screwoff panel will be drywall anyways, so i'd think not. but ya never know....

DM


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I think I'd use wood just to be on the safe side. Somebody "stumbling" around in the attic later on down the line might not even see the "box" (with the blown insulation) an step in the wrong spot.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

i guess i wasn't clear, sorry.... i plan on doing wood, yes, but should i 'line' the inside with drywall too? overkill?

DM


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

also, the 12/4 pitch of the roof and where the hole is only leaves a couple ft. above it, so i don't think anyone would be walking in that area....
Billy Barty maybe, but.... unlikely. lol

DM


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Got it! I guess I wasn't quite "seeing it" clearly. The only one who can justify "overkill" is you.......but it does sound like more trouble than it's worth.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

$15 is too much. Sorry, but poor excuse.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

gregzoll said:


> $15 is too much. Sorry, but poor excuse.


$15 IS too much!!! what do you mean, poor excuse? 

i'm sorry we're poor... GOOD excuse!

DM


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Oh, but you have money to cover the ceiling in expensive wood product to hide your mistake. Where are the priorties.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

perhaps i should elucidate... =o)
panels - bought at auction for $10.00 for 200 approximately 15"x61" in size. most in excellent condition, some crappy pieces.
walnut strips - created from my woods costing me time and labor is all.
1 gallon polyurethane - $20.00
screws - maybe $10.00
so a 300 sq. ft. one-of-a-kind ceiling for about $40.00 seems to me to be a GOOD thing. agreed?
and it wasn't about covering up a mistake, it was just so i wouldn't have to move that piece to the next joist over and do two half sheets on either side of it. that would have worked too but was more work. i planned from the start to do the ceiling this way, so as long as there's no fire safety issue or code problem, i'm ok with it.

DM


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

like the rock guys said, it's no problem so I wouldn't worry about it regardless of the cost. If it was free yet there was no problem with hanging it backwards, I still wouldn;t fix it.

being frugal isn't being cheap. It's merely being wise with your assets.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

yup! :yes: today i'll be working on the center of the room access hole/fan-light area. i decided to drywall the inside of the box i created.
now to do a drywall sheet with wood and support framing from some 4" walnut to make a cover. const. adhesive will hold it together, and screws will mount it via frame to ceiling, then i start the strips! woohoo!

DM


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## super carpenter Rob (Oct 28, 2008)

bjbatlanta said:


> Hang it backwards and glaze coat the whole piece to slick it out. The back paper it much "coarser" than the face paper. Otherwise, no harm, no foul. I've done it a time or two myself, usually just pulling the measurement from the wrong side of the board in a hurry. If I have enough rock, I'll re-cut. If it's a toss between finishing up or going to get one more sheet, I'll hang it backwards....


 I agree it happens every now and then no big deal I don't know how true it is but I been told to hang upside down when going over it with plaster,strucktolite regards Rob


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

good point... i wondered about that too, wouldn't plaster stick better to a rougher surface?

DM


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Not sure if that's the case or to eliminate the tapered edge..........or both.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

MdangermouseM said:


> good point... i wondered about that too, wouldn't plaster stick better to a rougher surface?
> 
> DM


You use a different board when plastering. Blueboard.The paper is designed to absorb the water and not cause a problem and it is designed to allow the plaster to hold.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Nap is absolutely correct, there is a specific type of board for plaster. I was speaking more in terms of a repair where you don't have access to blueboard. Naturally, it would be best to use the proper "backer" board. Thanks for the clarification......


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

ok, i said i'd keep you guys posted, here is pic of the ceiling started--> http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=31309

DM


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