# Radial arm saw stopped working



## PaliBob

Lost,
Thanks for including the pic. I have the 1985 version of that Sears Radial Arm Saw but since I have not used it that much the only thing I can say is for you to do is to recheck the AC Power connections and the reset button. (I never had to use the reset button)

Here is an interesting *review* on that Saw.
.


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## BigJim

The best I can remember that saw has a reset button on the back of it, give that a try.


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## iamrfixit

If you tried the reset right after the motor stalled, you may want to try it again. Many times it will not reset right away and has to allow things to cool off. I don't know about your particular saw but sometimes those resets have to be pressed fairly hard and sometimes repeatedly to get it reset and it will usually reset with a click, but I have seen some reset with no click.

Since you stalled the motor it most likely did trip the reset, or possibly even the breaker to the outlet.


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## mel_kissmygrits

I waited a few days, the switch was fully pressed in and would not go in further. The circuit itself is not tripped, as I am able to run other devices on the same receptacle. 

At this point I am at a loss. It's such a good saw, in like-new condition.


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## Tom Struble

does the trigger click when you depress it?


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## mel_kissmygrits

No clicks, no humming, nothing.


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## Tom Struble

bad trigger maybe,raise up the blade so it's not contacting anything and lock it, carefullytap around the trigger assembly while you work it


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## NWFixer

if you can get it working I would suggest you get the free upgrade/recall kit for it. it might save some fingers


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## rdf123

Hello All...

Did the original poster of this thread ever get this issue resolved. I had the same thing happened to me today. I took the cover off the motor and blew it all out...waited about 45 minutes for it to cool and still no start. I did have one question about the motor though...The wire runs from the breaker to a small piece of flat copper (1) which in turn extends down behind (2). The disk(2) seems spring loaded and moves in the direction of the arrow. It is still warm from after the stall, maybe it will work if it cools some more. Could anyone explain how this works and what it does?





















Thanks in advance for the help

Robert


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## mel_kissmygrits

Hi -- to answer your question, no I did not fix the saw yet. I was in a rush, so I bought a second used RAS on craigslist. I hope to tear into the broken on at some point.


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## rdf123

Update....The breaker button was not pushed down all the way!!! It seems to have 2 different steps in the button. It was clicking everytime I pushed it...therefore making me think I was resetting it. Thank goodness for my temper....I got so frustrated I squeezed the button really hard and heard a second louder click. I tried the saw and it worked. The only problem is I will have to take the cover off every time this happens because it took ALOT of pressure on the button to pop that breaker back. But I will worry about that when it happens....I have some wood to cut....


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## mel_kissmygrits

What's involved in taking the cover off? I think I pressed mine too hard and it went back inside the cover.


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## rdf123

3 slotted screws underneath...1 on the blade side and 2 on the accessory side they are recessed into the cover in holes...they are not visible unless you look into the holes. (there are a few other screws on there). Then you will see the breaker surrounded by foam...the whole button assembly will come off its mount and you can squeeze it till you hear the second click. I was surprised how hard I had to do it, so really give it a good one. 

Best of luck


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## mel_kissmygrits

Does anyone know where to get a replacement reset switch? The number on the back of the red button is: CSJ63CA. Sears shows it as unavailable. They still have the big round capacitor, and the switch rdf123 wrote about earlier.


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## mel_kissmygrits

Failing that, can I bypass the switch or relocate it somehow? The second Sears Radial arm saw I bought did not have a reset switch on it (it is older).


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## Scotsman88

*Stopped radial arm saw*

I'm glad they kept this thread open since I just encountered the same problem in July 2013. I let the motor cool down then pressed the reset button with no results. After doing this a number of times I finally went to this chat room and found the answer right there. I went back out, pressed and held the reset button quite hard until I heard a second click and the saw came right back on. Thanks (you think as a Sears retired Craftsman power tool buyer I would have figured that out). 
Bob


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## BigJim

Scotsman88 said:


> I'm glad they kept this thread open since I just encountered the same problem in July 2013. I let the motor cool down then pressed the reset button with no results. After doing this a number of times I finally went to this chat room and found the answer right there. I went back out, pressed and held the reset button quite hard until I heard a second click and the saw came right back on. Thanks (you think as a Sears retired Craftsman power tool buyer I would have figured that out).
> Bob


Glad you found the answer here on one of our older threads.


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## MikeyA

This thread has proven to be useful yet again. Two months ago I bogged my saw down doing something I shouldn't have. I haven't needed it since because all of my projects have been small. I have a bigger project coming up where I'm building my little girl practically a complete play kitchen with sink, stove, fridge, and pantry. I will be needing this saw. Read the thread - pressed hard until the second click - saw is up and running again!! Thanks guys!


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## oh'mike

I enjoy seeing older threads helping folks---glad this worked for you--


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## GrayHair

This is another reason I like to see the resolution to problems. :thumbsup:


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## drew53813

I would like to take this thread into a different direction. I have heard nothing but bad things about RAS. I was thinking of purchasing one last year, and was told by many that its a dangerous tool. These days with sliding miter saws and the like, I dont know why people would need one.


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## ToolSeeker

drew53813 said:


> I would like to take this thread into a different direction. I have heard nothing but bad things about RAS. I was thinking of purchasing one last year, and was told by many that its a dangerous tool. These days with sliding miter saws and the like, I dont know why people would need one.


They will accept Dado blades which makes them handy for cutting rabbits and dados.


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## drew53813

A table saw does as well. No moving blade on those


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## McSteve

The other name for 'em is "Radical Harm Saw"

It's a little exciting when you get your setup a little wrong and it decides to dig in, kick, self-feed, and generally just come at you with malicious intent. I've never seen it as any more or less dangerous than a table saw, though.


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## ronwfox

The same thing happened to me. The blade caught in a piece of work and the motor stopped. I kept pushing the reset button, heard it click but the saw STILL didn't restart. It sat in my garage for 3 years. My wife said "Make it work or get rid of it." I searched all over and saw this post. I gave the switch a REAL HARD SHOVE past the first click. I heard a much louder one, and now it works!!!! Thanks.


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## chandler48

Dang, I've been reading through an 8 year old thread hoping to help someone  Glad everyone lived through it.


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## Oberonsson

Grateful for this thread and the simple answer that it supplied me today. Press harder on the reset button. It worked! Got my radial arm saw back! Thanks!


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## DexterII

Nine years and still going! Makes one wonder how many others this tread helped and they just didn't post to let anyone know.


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## Hondahunter

This super old thread saved another RAS! Mine locked up a month ago and finally got around to searching how to replace reset switch and came across this forum and found the push hard for 2nd click and bingo my saw is running again!!!!


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## NeilQ

In case the red reset button doesn't work on a Craftsman ras, the motor protector has likely failed. The Sears parts diagrams indicate there were two motors used for most ras. The first, and presumably older, motor used a Klixon model D157 phenolic protector (Sears number 64625). The second used a slightly different Klixon model CGJ65EB phenolic protector (Sears number 64734). Klixon changed it's phenolic motor protector model numbering scheme sometime in the late 50's early 60's. The older Klixon model D157's "modern" part number is CEG65GB. There are two differences between these protectors. The CGJ comes with higher current rated contacts and has a dust cover over the top of unit when compared with the CEG. While both protectors should work (and fit) fine with either motor, the newer CGJ part is the more robust choice. 

Both protectors are still in production. You may obtain them at any number of industrial motor rebuild/repair shops. Here is one I found with reasonable prices and shipping: Klixon Motor Protectors


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## Arayscott

Still doing good for people in 2021. Mine just quit and found this thread so keep it going. Apparently there are lots of Craftsman RAS in need of this fix.


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## CaptTom

It's like Deja Vu. I see the title of the thread and say to myself "Hey - I have that same saw!" Then I'll read along for a while thinking "yeah, I know, I remember that now. You have to press really hard!" and "Hey, I should answer this post, but I'll read a little farther to see if someone already has..."

Eventually it dawns on me to check the date on the post. Doh!

We need to form a club. Ancient RAS owners. Not sure what the fuss is, I still have all my fingers. But I do have a healthy respect for this thing. I know what it can do.


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## NeilQ

I bought my craftsman ras back in 1978. I too have a healthy respect for the machine and have all my fingers. I was using it to rebuild my deck back in 2015 when the blade stalled, the protector (red button thing on the motor) clicked, and that was it - dead. I'm a design engineer and mess with motors quite a bit. I also get a lot of satisfaction from repairing old electronics and the related detective work. The results of my protector replacement research are in post #31 in this thread. I made that post in June 2015 - not 6 months ago as it now indicates. It seems this forum's calendar is messed up. It makes me happy to know that post 31 helped somebody keep their saw running.


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## tnhomestead

rdf123 said:


> Update....The breaker button was not pushed down all the way!!! It seems to have 2 different steps in the button. It was clicking everytime I pushed it...therefore making me think I was resetting it. Thank goodness for my temper....I got so frustrated I squeezed the button really hard and heard a second louder click. I tried the saw and it worked. The only problem is I will have to take the cover off every time this happens because it took ALOT of pressure on the button to pop that breaker back. But I will worry about that when it happens....I have some wood to cut....


Thanks for the info, just saved my saw!


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## Ken V.

tnhomestead said:


> Thanks for the info, just saved my saw!


I had the same problem (the thermal protect button popped) and I "pushed real hard" with my finger to reset it. No joy. So I tried again using a stubby phillips screwdriver to push the reset button. It clicked right away and the saw works like a champ again. Thank goodness I found this old thread.


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## chandler48

11 year old thread with the Lazarus syndrome, I guess.


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## mgogmaj

Thank y'all. I'm 66year old female,....rehabbing my future house, learn everything from you tube and forums. I bought my 10" Craftsman RAS 2 years ago for $50 off of Craigslist. GREAT SAW..just needed new table. its definitely one of the older ones...IT has the prettiest cut I've ever seen. Same exact thing happened to me.......found this thread...thanks to everyone for sharing...Im up and sawing again. If anyone is inclined to do more videos using/fixing these old saws it would be great, there are very few out there. Most helpful is when people find new parts for the obsolete ones...THANKS AGAIN...please keep this thread alive!!!!


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## Ken V.

I had the exact same problem. The reset button needs to be pressed HARD for it to reset. I could not do it with just my finger. I used a shorty phillips screwdriver to press on the reset button and after a HARD push, it clicked. The saw ran fine again after that reset.


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## EricRAS

Terrific thread....last time I caused the saw's internal breaker to jump was over 20 years ago. I had forgotten the forceful reset button required. Thx everybody.


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## CaptTom

The thread which won't die...

Anyway, glad it's still helping people after all these years. Just bought a new blade for my old Craftsman radial arm saw. That thing is still going strong!


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## Nealtw

CaptTom said:


> The thread which won't die...
> 
> Anyway, glad it's still helping people after all these years. Just bought a new blade for my old Craftsman radial arm saw. That thing is still going strong!


I have one that I can't give a way.


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## EricRAS

I have an old carbide tipped blade I use for rough carpentry....I bought a new expensive one last spring (carbide tipped as well and negative hook) and it "sings" when idling down. It is secured properly but for the life of me I can't figure out why it "sings". Suggestions?


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## chandler48

Sold my 1973 vintage RAS a few weeks ago for $50. Put a Dewalt 12" slider in its place.


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## chandler48

EricRAS said:


> I can't figure out why it "sings".


Probably the air holes in the blade catching air and whistling. Ever carry a ladder on the back of your truck? If it sits perfectly parallel to the truck the air will whistle through the rungs.


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## Nealtw

chandler48 said:


> Sold my 1973 vintage RAS a few weeks ago for $50. Put a Dewalt 12" slider in its place.


I had two I made line drill out of one so I drill thru boards to high for the drill press.


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## Jeekinz

I use mine for stuff like notching posts with a dado, etc. They come in handy once in a while, or if your tools are on-site.


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## CaptTom

I don't even recall why I bought mine, instead of a table saw, back in the early 80's. But I've grown to love it, and for many jobs I prefer it over a table saw. Mostly I do framing and other rough work. I think if I were doing finish carpentry I'd go with the table saw. But for quick setup and ease of use, the RAS can't be beat.

There are other benefits. Because you feed it right to left, instead of front to back like a table saw, I can rip an 8' piece without moving anything. For 12 footers I need to open the door on one side and the window on the other, but it still works.


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