# Adding a T in a gas line



## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

I have an 8 foot run of 1in black pipe, and I need to branch out a second gas line. I think what I'm 'supposed' to do is:

- Cut the pipe and remove it
- Re-run it as a section of pipe, the T, another section of pipe, a union, and a third section of pipe.

I was also thinking about:

- Cutting the pipe
- Using a dremel to grind the threads off the 2 sides of the T fitting
- JB Weld'ing the T fitting into place

Guessing the second option isn't up to code, but it seems like it would last forever. It would save about $80 in materials, and have less places to leak -- downside being that it couldn't be disassembled (short of recutting the pipe and using more JB Weld)

Anyone have any advice or another way / tutorial of how to add a T into an existing gas line?


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

The suggestion of using JB weld on gas piping will get you alot of responses, this is the reason why there are so many suggestions as to not touch gas piping as a DIY.

The though of using anything else but rated, pipe, threads and dope is just plain stupid. 

I don't mean to belittle you, but a suggestion like that in a public forum should be squashed forever.

Call a licensed proffessional, before you build that bomb!

Mark


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Tibberous...terrible, terrible idea. Do it right and don't kill yourself or anyone who lives with you.


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## Ishmael (Apr 24, 2007)

Yikes.


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

So you don't think it will hold up over time? The reason I suggested JB Weld is because people use it to patch fuel tanks. I'm almost positive a real weld would work, but it'd be harder to weld on a fitting that to replace the whole pipe.

Is the first way I suggested the best 'right' way? It just seems like a lot to add a new gas hookup. A water line would just be two cuts, a fitting and some solder - guess I was hoping there would be a similiar way to do this. The other gas line I'm running is easy, since I can run off an existing pipe - this one I either have to add in a T or double-back like 15 feet.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Some threads I read here make me laugh. This one scares the $hit out of me!
Don't consider any joining method except those approved by code. 
There are some areas that won't even allow a home owner to run gas piping. Are you pulling a permit like any responsible homeowner would? Ask your inspector how to join your gas line:thumbsup:


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

Permit just to add a couple gas lines? So they can maybe tell me I'm not even allowed to do it? That sounds like a bad idea.

Codes are good as guides, but I think people can get carried away with them. Perfect example - my hot water tank sits on my unfinished basement floor, literally 6 feet away from a floor drain. Before I replaced my old one, it would leak, and the water would pool up and run into the drain. Code says I'm supposed to have a drip pan, but in my case, it would be stupid. Gas is a little different, because there is a safety aspect involved, but just because something isn't 'correct' doesn't necessarily make it unsafe.

Probably will end up taking the pipe apart and reassembling it with the union, just seems a little wasteful to spend an extra $100 if either way will have the same result. Maybe home depot could rethread the end of my old pipe so I wouldn't have to buy a new one? That would save like $60, since the pipe is like $15/ft when you have to get a custom size.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

Here is why there are codes and permits. Are you willing to take the risk?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

tibberous said:


> Permit just to add a couple gas lines? So they can maybe tell me I'm not even allowed to do it? That sounds like a bad idea.


Yes, I fear for you and your family's safety.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

This thread = :laughing::furious:

It all adds up to :no:



If you want it easy, disassemble it outside the building and add a tee there, and run trac pipe from outside to wherever your fixture is going to be.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

tibberous said:


> Permit just to add a couple gas lines? So they can maybe tell me I'm not even allowed to do it? That sounds like a bad idea.
> 
> Codes are good as guides, but I think people can get carried away with them. Perfect example - my hot water tank sits on my unfinished basement floor, literally 6 feet away from a floor drain. Before I replaced my old one, it would leak, and the water would pool up and run into the drain. Code says I'm supposed to have a drip pan, but in my case, it would be stupid. Gas is a little different, because there is a safety aspect involved, but just because something isn't 'correct' doesn't necessarily make it unsafe.
> 
> Probably will end up taking the pipe apart and reassembling it with the union, just seems a little wasteful to spend an extra $100 if either way will have the same result. Maybe home depot could rethread the end of my old pipe so I wouldn't have to buy a new one? That would save like $60, since the pipe is like $15/ft when you have to get a custom size.


15 dollars a foot? You are getting hosed.

Go to a plumbing shop and buy a piece and have them thread it. I bet you should be paying somewhere in the realm of 5.00/ft or less.


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## dsconstructs (Jun 8, 2011)

Your second option..........is not an option :no: period


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

Alan said:


> 15 dollars a foot? You are getting hosed.
> 
> Go to a plumbing shop and buy a piece and have them thread it. I bet you should be paying somewhere in the realm of 5.00/ft or less.


For 1in? I was looking at Home Depot - might have the price wrong.

And the point I was trying to make is that something can be safe and functional without being up to code or done properly. If you welded all the gas lines, it would work and be safe - it just would be really hard to work on, and not the 'proper' way to do it.

If I try to get a permit, and they say I can't do it myself, I could end up paying $1,000+ between the price of a permit and a plumber. Think I'd rather do it myself for $100-200.

Anyway, wasn't trying to start a debate - to be honest I was hoping there was some super-easy third way to do this that I didn't know about. If my house was setup different, it probably wouldn't be as bad -- once I add these three gas lines I'll have 15 total (5 fireplaces, 5 unused spots where stuff used to be... little bit of a rats nest)


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

tibberous said:


> For 1in? I was looking at Home Depot - might have the price wrong.


Sounds about right there. Should expect to pay 400-500% of what you should be paying. :whistling2:


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## Adam_M (Feb 4, 2011)

I lol'd at this thread everyone says no to welding, but as a ticked gas fitter I can tell you it can be done safely, but to do so will be more expensive. What you need to do is shut the line down then purge it using an inert gas like nitrogen, using a regular air compressor is a no go. After you have purged it you need to keep the inert gas flowing through the pipe while welding it. 

Like I said it can be done safely, the other option I would look at is using a product like "TracPipe" or a similar product to run your lines. When you install what ever morbid you choose make sure you test the line to 50 psi for 30 minutes. Your test gauge should be a 60 psi gauge 3" in diameter the reason for this is if you use a 100 or 200 psi gauge you won't know if you have lost 1-2 psi over your test time. 

Also what none has mentioned yet is that 1" gas line is sized for what running on it, you could starve your appliaces of gas by hooking up additional items to the line. also that pic looks like the one where the plumber had his b-tank explode in his truck. 



In closing yes Gas is very bad to touch, and should be done by a prefessional, some guys may even offer a trade inservices instead if cash payment.


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## dsconstructs (Jun 8, 2011)

We simply said no to *JB weld *


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## jamalc6996 (Jun 15, 2011)

You should never use JBweld for anything to do with natural gas or propane. Use the proper fittings and pipe when replacing or repairing natural gas/propane work.


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

the super easy way of doing it is to do it with the right materials the right way. just think if you did it your way then came home one day and smelled gas. now you have to call a plumber on overtime and pay through the nose. much cheaper and safer in the long run to do it right the first time. is there an elbow or fitting close to something where you could take some of it apart and install your tee there? i worked with a guy that broke a spark plug off in his engine, then used a hole saw to get the plug out and used jb weld to stick something in the hole he could screw a sparkplug into. it almost worked. i did find that they make a saddle for what you want to do but i would do more research before using it. check and see if the local gas company or building dept approves of such fittings. but to use this you have to drill a hole in the pipe and shaving would get in the pipe and that wouldnt be good for you gas appliances. these fittings are designed to be used with a special drilling jig.

http://skinnerco.com/saddle_tee.htm


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## George6488 (Feb 2, 2011)

I live in Houston, Texas area.....please tell me you don't live any where close


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## Marqed97 (Mar 19, 2011)

When I bought my house I demo'd a few crappy walls in the basement and found an 'interesting' junction where they tied the new boiler in to the gas line (17 yrs ago or more). I wish I had a pic, it reminds me of what you're describing. I paid to have it redone from the meter in. Now instead of switchbacks, tees, and valves spanning 20' of pipe, I have 8' in the basement, I know it's sized right, I know the valves function, and I don't worry about bad things (boom!) happening. WELL WORTH every penny.


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