# dishwasher install



## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Taking out old one i found copper water line connected at the front left. What are the chances new one will be in same location? Also silestone counters have tabs installed to take dw screws. If i have to relocate those what do i need to drill the fake granite? Or would epoxy hold them well enough


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## chitownken (Nov 22, 2012)

You can find the installation documents for almost any appliance online. You might want to check the locations of the water inlet and the mounting tabs before you buy the new one.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Too late. New one coming tomorrow!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Water is usually at the front corner. I recommend replacing the copper with a 3/8" DW braided flex line.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Mounting the machine----many new machines have alternate mounting slots on the sides of the machine--allowing you to screw into the wood face frame of the cabinets instead of the usual counter top mounting--

As to the water line----see where that copper water feed comes from----I would change that to a modern stainless braided line----the newer machines will have the feed on the left---but fitting the old copper may be more trouble than adding a new line---


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Thanks, guys.... I had planned to use a SS braided flex until I saw the copper in there. Good to know that the braided flex seems to be the method of choice so that's what I'll do. That'll make the job almost too easy. ;-) Also hope the new unit has side bracket locations mentioned by Mike. Likewise, that'll almost make the job too easy. Here's hoping....


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Pull up the installation instructions for your new machine---every machine with a stainless steel tub that I have installed in the last few years is was set up for side mounting---plastic tubs?? Not all--but some do--


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

It's a Whirlpool Gold with SS tub. Too sleepy to research tonight so I will just deal with it when it comes in the AM. I am pretty confident I'll have what I need... and there is a Lowes literally across the street so I'll be good to go.



oh'mike said:


> Pull up the installation instructions for your new machine---every machine with a stainless steel tub that I have installed in the last few years is was set up for side mounting---plastic tubs?? Not all--but some do--


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Old dishwasher out... piece of cake. I did have to run the rear legs up to get them to clear the tile. But the "rear" legs are really only a foot or so back from the front so I had no trouble reaching the adjustable feet. I thought they might have been all the way at the back which would have been a tough reach.

I did find the water supply source. There is a dedicated shutoff valve below the kitchen sink stop valves. It was hard to see until I removed the cleaning products.

Still not quite sure what to do with the water supply line. It looks to be 3/8" copper, about 4 feet long. If it reaches the supply connection on the new DW (not here yet) is it OK to reuse it? The undersink stop valve is in a tough location and the house has CPVC water lines (that stuff can be brittle) so I am reluctant to take a wrench to remove the copper line unless I have to. Hate to crack the CPVC and end up with a nightmare repair job.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Sure it's reuseable--however--the new machines are so low to the ground that hooking the short,stiff copper line may be a complete night mare---most plumbers connect the water line while the unit is out of the hole--laying on its back---

Before you decide---see if you can get a connection made with the tools you have.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Got the waterline part figured out. I managed to remove the copper line (had to go buy a wrench since I forgot that one) so will use the adapter and ss flex line. easy peasy.

But I am having trouble getting the thing in on a test fit. It is hanging up on the door hinges. I am not sure but I think they might be bent, Not the best picture but those of you familiar with these things might be able to tell. I can't tell if they are supposed to be bowed out like that to make friction for the hinge or if all the plates should be flush? Both sides are identical and no sign of damage on the box...


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Measure your opening---is it a perfect 24 inches?

I can't tell from the picture if the door is out of whack----looks consistent from left to right---


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Yes, the opening is 24".

The black hinge arms rub on the galvanized parts that are bowed out and the bowed galvanized parts literally bend in as the door opens. The door does not operate smoothy. Very graunchy and tales a ton of effort to move.

Here's another photo showing how the misalignment almost makes the nylon cord walk off the pully it is on such a severe angle.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

And one final pic looking directly from the front. You can see how the bowed out galvanized frame and black hinge arm (hinge arm at bottom of pic) protrude past the door. And the total width to the bowed out hinge arms is 24 1/2". And when you open the door the hinge arms are pressed even farther out as they ride over the bowed galvanized frame so the width goes to more like 25".

I called them and they are going to bring out another next Friday. But my birthday surprise is spoiled. And I'll have to finish the work with a little dog pestering me.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That's to bad----At least they are taking care of it---

Can you pick up the new one to speed things up?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I went to Lowes to get a 3/8" compression cap to screw onto the adapter I installed on the supply valve to terminate the water line for now. Even though it wasn't dripping I don't like to rely totally on a stop valve to prevent leakage. 

While I was at Lowes I went over to appliances and looked at the dishwashers. On every one of them the hinge arms and frames were in perfect vertical alignment and well within the width envelope defined by the door. And all the doors functioned smoothly as expected.

Only thing I can think is this thing got stacked too high or topped by something else waaaayyy too heavy. No indication of droppage... just more like heavy compressive load that bowed out the frame at the hinge mounts.


I didn't think to ask about pickup... but earlier doesn't do me any good unless it is today or tomorrow. They are bringing the new one next Friday. What a waste of a day. Sometimes things like this make me wonder why I bother to DIY!




oh'mike said:


> That's to bad----At least they are taking care of it---
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Got the replacement delivered today. The frame and hinges were not bent up like the first one and it went right in... and runs nice and quiet!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Great to hear from you----did the unit have the side clips for attaching to the cabinets?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

It had that option but looked to be a little sketchy. Not much wood to work with, esp on one side that was a curved molding piece, like a quarter round.

Lowes had these Granite Grabber (maybe not the exact brand) adhesive brackets. The method is to attach the regular DW brackets as usual to the top of the DW then screw those into the Granite Grabbers. Once the unit is in place pull off the backing and attach to the granite. I used a couple of spring clamps on them for 5 or 10 minutes. Seems plenty solid since the DW fits in there nice and tight anyway. If they ever come loose (doubtful) I could probably just apply a little epoxy or construction adhesive and clamp em down to dry and be good to go.

This is what I used: http://www.amazon.com/Granite-Grabb...g-Brackets/dp/B002UQ107O/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

I also just now saw this product that should work well:
http://www.amazon.com/EZDISHWASHERBRKT-E-Z-Dishwasher-Bracket/dp/B004Z29KGE/ref=pd_rhf_cr_p_t_1

One teeny issue with the new DW was that the Romex feed was a tad short so I couldn't do the elect connection with the unit pulled out a few inches. So with the unit pushed in, while there was enough cable to pull into the box and wire nut up, I couldn't get a screwdriver in to tighten the screws on the strain relief. Can't see how there would ever be any strain on the romex in this situation so that's how it'll be unless maybe I'll try to get a tweaker in there one of these days.



oh'mike said:


> Great to hear from you----did the unit have the side clips for attaching to the cabinets?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks for the link----those might come in handy for me sometime---

California requires an outlet and a plug in cord on the machines if I remember correctly---

I like the idea----the new machines have so little room to work that adding a cord might be a great idea---


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

This DW had alternative instructions to add a plug and cord. And I could easily have added a receptacle box in the wall where the romex exited but that would have required another visit to Lowes! It sure would be more convenient for removing and installing.

The old GE unit's elect box was right up front on the bottom and easy to get to the strain relief so pulling it wasn't a problem. If this Whirlpool had the strain relief tightened it would be a bear to get out. Hopefully it won't need to come out anytime soon, tho.





oh'mike said:


> Thanks for the link----those might come in handy for me sometime---
> 
> California requires an outlet and a plug in cord on the machines if I remember correctly---
> 
> I like the idea----the new machines have so little room to work that adding a cord might be a great idea---


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