# Ford Expedition spark plugs



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

a 3 valve engine ? good luck with that. 

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=ford+3+valve+plug+remover+tool


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

I work at a ford dealer change these all the time. There is no good trick. They either come out our break. If they have been changed once they rarely break again. The lisle removal tool works great but you need to make sure the electrode is out first which can be a royal pain on the rear plugs (which usually The ones that always break. If you don't remove it and it gets folded over by the tool it will most likely result in you removing the head.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

This is just crazy with these engines!!


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Mine is the 5.4 triton motor 2000 is this the problem child
Motor??


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Soak them in a good penetrating oil and heat cycle the car a few times.

Acetone and tranny fluid works great.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Shouldn't I worry about that getting into the engine?


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have seen the impact method, what you guys think about that??


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

No. 

It burns off right away. 

Don't pour it down there like you are filling up the spark plug recessed tubes, but saturate the plugs and hope they draw into the fluid and you can get the plugs loose.

Putting a tiny bit of torque on the plug in the tightening direction right before trying to loosen them can help.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

No 3 valve engine in the expedition until 2005.

Your engine does not use the two piece plug design that breaks off, but that does not mean you are out of the woods. The older version of these engines had few threads in the head and the plug holes can be easily stripped out. 

Proper torque is crucial, I believe the oem specs call for 11-14 lb ft of torque, which is not very tight at all. This is also part of the problem. Tests have proven that the plug holes would strip out at around 80lb ft. Often what happens is the plugs are so lightly torqued that they work loose, then leak and move around until the threads in the head are damaged enough they blow out. Since the mileage recommendation for a plug change was 100k, they are often never looked at for many years. 

I change mine sooner at about half that, the shorter time period allows me to know they have worked loose much sooner. I also torque them to 20 lb ft with a very tiny dab of nickel anti seize. 

I have a 2000 V10 and a 2003 5.4 which are the exact same plugs as yours. I will recommend to you, use ONLY motorcraft plugs and change the coil over plug boots at the same time. Other brand plugs have been known to have more problems working loose and miss firing, and a shorting boot will kill a $50 coil pack. I have 150k on my 03 van and 130k on my 00 truck and have not had a single problem with any of the plugs or coils.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Awesome info, greatly appreciate all your help.. Thank you.


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## 92slammer (Apr 16, 2016)

cjm94 said:


> I work at a ford dealer change these all the time. There is no good trick. They either come out our break. If they have been changed once they rarely break again. The lisle removal tool works great but you need to make sure the electrode is out first which can be a royal pain on the rear plugs (which usually The ones that always break. If you don't remove it and it gets folded over by the tool it will most likely result in you removing the head.


just what he said


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## paintdrying (Jul 13, 2012)

Deep creep is a good penetrating oil. I would spray them a few times a day for a week.


http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Foam-DC-14-Creep-Lubricant/dp/B0002KL6TM


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