# Great stuff or equivalent product for cold weather?



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Tape up a 6 mil plastic over the wall.
Ron


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

The cracks are actually in all sorts of random places (inside the garage) and most of them probably arn't leaks but I just want to hit up each one. Basically the garage wall sits on a mini cinder block wall (only one brick tall) and lot of the mortor joints arn't really made, think it was more or less meant to hold the wall then to look nice. So I just want to hit all those cracks. 

If you mean indoors, that's what I had done, but the positive air pressure hitting against the plastic actually ripped the tape. Guess when you got -30C air falling on +15C air, it's a lot of pressure. I put the plastic back but it will probably fall again. This is just temp anyway as I will be insulating that crawlspace. I will probably build an access door too.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

most single component polyurethane foam can be dispensed between 40-100 degrees F


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Too cold for mortar. Are these traditionally spaced 1/2" mortar joints? If so, I would fill them with backer rod temporarily and mortar them in the warmer weather.
Foam in a can will look like crap and will burn exposed.
Ron


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

the thing to remember about canned foam in cold weather is that cure time will be a lot slower. So as long as you keep the cans around room temp prior to use, they should dispense just fine, but once it comes out it may take several hours or even days to cure in extreme cold.

if you have a lot of air pressure coming through the crack you are trying to seal, it may end up just blowing the uncured foam out of the way. Pushing some sort of backer material into the crack might help with this. If the cracks are small, caulk might be a better alternative


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Was thinking caulk too, think that would be better? Also thinking about the fire rating, caulk is probably more resistant right? That part of the garage will be hidden eventually when I drywall, but for now it will be exposed.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I'm with Ron on this one; backer rod and a paint stick, or whatever you want to use to tuck it in place. You'll be done in no time, and won't have to wonder if it is going to do the trick.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

That looks like it could work too, I'll have to see if I can find some when I go to the hardware store. If I can't find it, is pipe insulation basically the same material? This stuff is not air tight so I'd still need to caulk after right?


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Actually, yes, the composition is very similar to, if not the same as, pipe insulation, except that it comes in a rope, with no hole for the pipe. It will most lilely be in clear plastic bag, about 12" square. I'm not sure of what all sizes it comes in, but they should at least have 3/8", 1/2", and 5/8" diameter on the shelf, so you'll want to look at your gaps, to see what size you may need. Again, it would be about like pushing a piece of pipe insulation into a void, so very easy to work with; I usually use a paint stick, or something like that to work it in place. Then, once it warms up, yes, you just caulk or mortar over it.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Red Squirrel said:


> That looks like it could work too, I'll have to see if I can find some when I go to the hardware store. If I can't find it, is pipe insulation basically the same material? This stuff is not air tight so I'd still need to caulk after right?


This will be air tight if you use the correct size. Big boxes carry 3/8-3/4" range in 1/8" increments. Masonary supply stores also carry it.
Caulking is optional. Matching the mortar joints would look better then caulk and could be done at any time it's warm enough.
Your house, your call.
Ron


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Cool I will do that, and just caulk in summer. This will probably help keep spiders and other bugs out too.


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