# Building A Small Foundation On A Bump-out



## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

I usually drill a hole in concrete with a bit 1/8'' bigger then the rebar(at least 6" deep for 1/2" rebar). Put epoxy in holes and stick in rebar.


----------



## Auggie56 (Dec 7, 2012)

Thanks for the input. Were working with hollow or web cement block here. The epoxy is awful expensive trying to fill that much of a void. It would just flow into the next course down, unless the cavity can be back filled with something ? Still a lot if epoxy used. What do you think ?

Thanks


----------



## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

"He tells me the cement needs to be tied into the existing cement block footer with re-bar"


You have cmu's for footings?????


----------



## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

Either try to find the bond beam block ( block filled with concrete and rebar ) if it has any or drill a hole the same size as rebar and just stick it in and maybe put some epoxy around it. I don't know a good solution. Maybe fill the block with as much mortar as you can and put the rebar in


----------



## Auggie56 (Dec 7, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> "He tells me the cement needs to be tied into the existing cement block footer with re-bar"
> 
> 
> You have cmu's for footings?????


What are CMU's ? Your talking to someone not in the building trades...

Thanks


----------



## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

Auggie56 said:


> What are CMU's ? Your talking to someone not in the building trades...
> 
> Thanks


 concrete masonry units-web cement blocks


----------



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Auggie -

I think the inspector wants you to be down below frost level for the footing and be tied to the foundation so the bump-out cannot be heaved up and destroy a part of your existing house (frost does things that cannot be resisted by a wood structure). Attachment of the new footing to the old is common and a couple of holes into the footing can be grouted with epoxy with virtually no waste.

You may be confusing a new foundation (block walls AND footing) with a portion of the existing foundation that may be concrete or CMUs. The grouting of the CMUs in the addition to the foundation footings can be done by grouting around and rods required in the wall. If they want the rest og the wall grouted/attached to the existing, you just stuff newspapers in the core of the CMUs in the new wall to prevent the cement/grout from draining down before it sets and cures. The wall attachment is mainly for alignment continuity and does not transfer much load as long as the new footing is deep enough and bonded (usually epoxied) to the existing footing.

Dick


----------



## Auggie56 (Dec 7, 2012)

concretemasonry said:


> Auggie -
> 
> I think the inspector wants you to be down below frost level for the footing and be tied to the foundation so the bump-out cannot be heaved up and destroy a part of your existing house (frost does things that cannot be resisted by a wood structure). Attachment of the new footing to the old is common and a couple of holes into the footing can be grouted with epoxy with virtually no waste.
> 
> ...


Thanks, this sounds like a plan......:thumbup:


----------



## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

concretemasonry said:


> You may be confusing a new foundation (block walls AND footing) with a portion of the existing foundation that may be concrete or CMUs. The grouting of the CMUs in the addition to the foundation footings can be done by grouting around and rods required in the wall. If they want the rest og the wall grouted/attached to the existing, you just stuff newspapers in the core of the CMUs in the new wall to prevent the cement/grout from draining down before it sets and cures. The wall attachment is mainly for alignment continuity and does not transfer much load as long as the new footing is deep enough and bonded (usually epoxied) to the existing footing.
> 
> Dick


 Most homes in Ohio have basements so the foundation for the existing wall will be much deeper than he plans on going with the new foundation. That means you won't be able to attach directly to the old footings. It's going to be much more difficult to attach rebar to the CMUs but still doable.


----------



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Why do you go by a cement mason and not use his opinion when he suggests you to do most of the work? - Sounds like two people speaking different languages.

It only makes sense if the old is tied directly to what is now there. It could fall into the "never-never" land of grand-fathered construction according to codes that matched what was allowed earlier.

In the end, the only way to get it definitely approved is to do it what the building official (probably not involved in the old construction) knew. If you have a responsible authority for permit approvals, make sure(insist) the inspector is there to protect your right by getting a building permit. If not, go by the "cement" mason and hope he knows how to do the job and protect you investment. - I have seen some nice homes ruined by add-on additions and it almost seems like it is best not to tightly attach a tack on addition any better than to look good enough initially.

If you have faith enough to hire the "cement" contractor to do the job, why not rely on him to do the entire job based on his reputation?

Dick


----------



## Auggie56 (Dec 7, 2012)

Good advice Dick....


----------

