# Brake problems



## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

You have to bleed all 4, one at a time. 
Make sure the cap for the brake fluid is tight before attempting to bleed.
Intionally your looking for flow of the fluid without bubbles not a hard pedal. After a couple rotations you should see a hard pedal.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Slowly depress the pedal, do not release it until someone has closed off the bleeder valve. Repeat.
The front and back should be two different systems, only work on one set at a time.


----------



## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

That's exactly what I did, 3 times, and there's no air coming out but it seems there's air trapped somewhere. In the past, I've successfully replaced calipers and master cylinders but this is the first time replacing brake lines.
There's got to be something I'm missing or a method of bleeding that is different than the standard, open bleeder, depress pedal to floor, close bleeder, release pedal, repeat.


----------



## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

Clutchcargo said:


> That's exactly what I did, 3 times, and there's no air coming out but it seems there's air trapped somewhere. In the past, I've successfully replaced calipers and master cylinders but this is the first time replacing brake lines.
> There's got to be something I'm missing or a method of bleeding that is different than the standard, open bleeder, depress pedal to floor, close bleeder, release pedal, repeat.


Try a search on YouTube. 
Found many a video showing how to fix things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZpe5TBMjCQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

You probably need to cycle the ABS module.
It takes a special scan tool to do it. 
Or some guys report success by driving car (if they have enough brakes) and braking hard enough to activate the ABS module. Then re-bleeding brakes.

Otherwise, call brake shops and ford garage to see if they have the scan tool to cycle the ABS module. IF they do, have them bleed the brakes.


----------



## Burgiebill (Jul 13, 2013)

Does your car have a proportion valve? Under m/c two lines go into a proportion valve. If u r not getting any air u may need to cross bleed the system. Bleed a little out of the left front then the right rear. If this does not help try the other corners. Needles to keep the m/c full. Also when bleeding don't let the person foot go all the way to the floor. U control this, them them, " down" push on the peddle, you just let a little fluid out, then tell them again. Also with ANY peddle pressure check the new lines for leaks. Hope this helps


----------



## Burgiebill (Jul 13, 2013)

Burgiebill said:


> Does your car have a proportion valve? Under m/c two lines go into a proportion valve. If u r not getting any air u may need to cross bleed the system. Bleed a little out of the left front then the right rear. If this does not help try the other corners. Needles to SAY keep the m/c full. Also when bleeding don't let the person foot go all the way to the floor. U control this, tell them, " down" push on the peddle, you just let a little fluid out, then tell them again. Also with ANY peddle pressure check the new lines for leaks. Hope this helps


Forgot a couple of words,


----------



## rustyjames (Jul 20, 2008)

Try cracking the right rear cylinder bleeder valve and leave it open until brake fluid starts streaming out. Close that bleeder and repeat on the left rear. Sometimes it helps to tap on the cylinder to release trapped air. That should get you in the ballpark where you should start getting some pedal pressure to start the bleeding process. Always start at the cylinder farthest from the master cylinder.


----------



## Burgiebill (Jul 13, 2013)

Burgiebill said:


> Does your car have a proportion valve? Under m/c two lines go into a proportion valve. If u r not getting any air u may need to cross bleed the system. Bleed a little out of the left front then the right rear. If this does not help try the other corners. Needles to keep the m/c full. Also when bleeding don't let the person foot go all the way to the floor. U control this, them them, " down" push on the peddle, you just let a little fluid out, then tell them again. Also with ANY peddle pressure check the new lines for leaks. Hope this helps


I miss a couple of words,

Needles to sat keep the m/c full


U control this, tell them


----------



## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

Interesting, cross bleeding... I haven't thought of that. Yes, two lines go into a proportion valve and yes, I'm not getting any air out. 
Does the order of bleeding really make a difference? I always start at the far corner and work my way toward the mc (Right Rear, LF, RF, LF).
Why not push the peddle to the floor?


----------



## Burgiebill (Jul 13, 2013)

It does not take a lot, if u have a pretty good peddle just a little then to left front. If not try the other corners. Good luck. Bill


----------



## Burgiebill (Jul 13, 2013)

Sorry, we never pushed to the floor, it took a little longer but not much chance of sucking back air. Worked in a brake and front end shop, the worked for a Chevy dealership for about eight years. Plus all the destruction I could do to my own cars when I was young. A lot of "school of hard learning"


----------



## Burgiebill (Jul 13, 2013)

Sorry, rustyjames is correct, do the right rear then left front. THEN do the left rear next right front.


----------



## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

sublime2 said:


> You have to bleed all 4, one at a time.
> Make sure the cap for the brake fluid is tight before attempting to bleed.
> Intionally your looking for flow of the fluid without bubbles not a hard pedal. After a couple rotations you should see a hard pedal.


 
"You have to bleed all 4, one at a time."
Really and how do you do this?


----------



## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

Hardway said:


> "You have to bleed all 4, one at a time."
> Really and how do you do this?


Really? 
Are you able to comprehend what you read?


----------



## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

Take about 2’ of hose/tubing that fits snug on the wheel cylinder bleeder screw. 
Zip tie the hose to a spring clothe pin, so you can clip the hose on the rim of a jar.
Make sure the hose is at the bottom of the jar, with just enough clean brake fluid to cover the end of the hose. (Either hang the jar or set it on something or use a longer hose.)
Now put the hose on the bleeder screw on the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. (you may need to put a little grease around the hose on the bleeder, not very often.) 
Open the bleeder, you can either gravity bleed or push the peddle.
Make sure you keep the master cylinder full. (You should be able to bleed all four with less then a half quart of fulid.)
Watch the hose in the jar, for bubbles. Once there are no bubbles, close the bleeder and move to the next furthest wheel.
After you have bled all four wheel cylinders repeat and check for bubbles.
This is fool proof and my standard method.


Disclaimer. 
I am not a Master Mechanic and this information is for discussion purpose only.


----------



## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

sublime2 said:


> Really?
> Are you able to comprehend what you read?[/QUOT
> 
> Appreanly not this early in the morning.:laughing:


----------



## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

Thanks guys, a couple new ideas, gravity and cross bleeding. I'll let you know how I make out. 
Although, now that I think about it, there is one more variable that may be a factor and that's my helper, who is my 90 yr old father. I ask him where the brake pedal was, thinking I'm going to get the answer up or down, and he said "next to the gas pedal." What can I say, he was correct.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Typically you bleed the corners in order of distance from the MC, starting with the furthest away, so on a LHD car: RR, LR, RF, LF. Speed bleeders are worth the money to me.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

A service manual should detail the proper bleeding sequence. Try autozone's website. Lots of free manuals there.


----------



## garykerr (Mar 6, 2014)

Sometimes it helps to tap on the cylinder to release trapped air. That should get you in the ballpark where you should start getting some pedal pressure to start the bleeding*,Worked in a brake and front end shop.


----------

