# Cannot get rid of roller marks!!



## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

Probably just your technique. Try working in smaller sections and put a thicker layer of paint on the wall. Don't put pressure on the roller.


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

So you applied latex paint over what a big box store employee told you was likely oil based paint? I hope that is not the case and fortunately I do not have much faith in the skill of that type of employee.

Can you post a couple pictures?

FWIW, my first thought is that you are trying to squeeze too much paint out of the roller but I'd like to see the pics.


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

There is no way the contractor used oil based paint on the interior of an apartment. You can barely even buy oil-based paint anymore. That is just some orange apron wearing moron throwing around buzz words, trying to convince you that he has a clue what he is talking about.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

First off, what BRAND of roller sleeve are you using? What size nap? What type of roller frame? 

I ask because the cheapie roller cages are made of such cheap metal that they can actually compress and your roller will leave insightly marks in the paint because of it. Use a 1/2" nap roller sleeve, preferably something like Purdy Marathon. Or, try a 1/2" MICROFIBER roller sleeve. Load that roller up with paint. It should almost be dripping with paint when you pull it out of the paint tray. Lay it on in 2 to 3 foot sections. Reload often and let the roller do the work. Don't push or force paint out of the roller sleeve. That can be one cause of roller marks.

Move quickly. Today's paints start setting up in just minutes so you can't mess around taking any breaks. Keep it moving at a brisk pace. I never heard of CIL paint, but, that could also be an issue. Cheap paint usually has lots of "fillers" in it, so, that combined with poor technique could be the culprits.

The problem now is that if you're seeing those roller marks coat after coat of paint, they must be really thick. Even sanding won't help remove the marks without damaging the wall. You may be looking at skim coating as a solution........


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## Tkfen (Apr 24, 2017)

1. I've tried a few different techniques like up and down the entire wall, small sections, the "W" pattern and all have come out with the same result. It almost look so patchy to me and not straight lines from the roller. 

2. I'm using a Purdy Dove roller, unsure about the frame 

3. CIL is a Canadian paint, I'm posting from Toronto Canada, the can says it is a flat interior paint, CIL 2 in 1 Premium paint

I'm trying to post links of photos but the forum is saying I must have a post to post links


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## Tkfen (Apr 24, 2017)

http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/tiffanyy069/media/IMG_9073_zpsy4pt7gx5.jpg.html


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## Tkfen (Apr 24, 2017)

This is before the primer
http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/tiffanyy069/media/IMG_9051_zpsrweq0nzv.jpg.html

After the primer (no paint applied yet)
http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/tiffanyy069/media/IMG_9073_zpsy4pt7gx5.jpg.html


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Remember, 123 primer has a slight sheen to it. One coat of flat over top of that will leave "dead spots", spots that were missed with the first coat. 99% of the time, that 2nd coat evens things out (especially flat paint) and your wall looks uniform.

I see technique issues. You really need to load that sucker up with paint. Roll from dry INTO the wet paint. In some areas it appears that you rolled back over some areas that were starting to dry. When you do that, you actually pull paint off the surface creating dead spots.

Another thing I see is poor drywall work. I see a seam, maybe two that look like they didn't get enough mud when the place was built and there is a slight indentation. Your roller didn't get into those lower spots and that, too, created dead spots. Forget the "W" technique, it just makes a mess of things. Up and down, move over 2 feet, up and down, rolling from the dry into the wet........

That's about all I got. I wish I could be of more help, but, based on what I see, those are some of the issues.......


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> Remember, 123 primer has a slight sheen to it. One coat of flat over top of that will leave "dead spots", spots that were missed with the first coat. 99% of the time, that 2nd coat evens things out (especially flat paint) and your wall looks uniform.
> 
> I see technique issues. You really need to load that sucker up with paint. Roll from dry INTO the wet paint. * In some areas it appears that you rolled back over some areas that were starting to dry. When you do that, you actually pull paint off the surface creating dead spots.
> 
> ...


When we owned an old farm house with typical 'undulating' walls I got into the habit of first rolling vertically then horizontally to catch any spots that would be missed with the first pass, then finished off horizontally with absolutely no pressure just to catch any roller marks. I never had any problems using quality paint. I'm also a fan of eggshell sheen to minimize any small imperfections either in the surface or created by my painting.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Try going over it with Promar 200.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Tkfen said:


> This is before the primer
> http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/tiffanyy069/media/IMG_9051_zpsrweq0nzv.jpg.html
> 
> After the primer (no paint applied yet)
> http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/tiffanyy069/media/IMG_9073_zpsy4pt7gx5.jpg.html



Looks like you let the roller get too dry between dunks. If you start hearing a puckering/sticky sound you rolled too long. You need to load the roller back up and hit that spot again. All you should hear when rolling paint is the squeak of the roller cage and the hollow sound of bumps on your crappy drywall.


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## getrex (Sep 14, 2016)

I think the mistake that people make with the 'W' method is that they don't realize that this is how you spread the paint around and that you need to follow it up with vertical-only top to bottom pulls for the finish. Also, a little bit of backrolling is good to keep an even surface but unless you are hitting a thin or missed spot... don't go back more than 3-4 inches. As long as you are moving quickly enough there won't be a problem.. unless if you are rolling an unsealed surface. But in that case you would be doing two coats regardless.

One more thing.. some methods are not compatible with some equipment. For example, if you are using a 9" roller then you will have a higher chance of leaving roller marks using the 'W' method. I use an 18" most of the time and I find that it works better for me and lays down a more even surface. But an 18" isn't for everyone. Just like with everything else you have to learn how to use it.


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## Squamish (Jan 26, 2021)

Gymschu said:


> Remember, 123 primer has a slight sheen to it. One coat of flat over top of that will leave "dead spots", spots that were missed with the first coat. 99% of the time, that 2nd coat evens things out (especially flat paint) and your wall looks uniform.
> 
> I see technique issues. You really need to load that sucker up with paint. Roll from dry INTO the wet paint. In some areas it appears that you rolled back over some areas that were starting to dry. When you do that, you actually pull paint off the surface creating dead spots.
> 
> ...


You provided some good advice that I will probably need in the near future.


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