# Buckled Plaster Wall



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I would at least try the plaster washers. If it shatters, falls out, you've lost nothing because then you can go with option two and replace. If it holds, then you have gained a nice repair. Maybe attach a 2 x 4 to cover the length of the bowing plaster to hold things in place. Then you can start screwing washers into the wood/lathe/framing to get it to start holding. Then when you are confident the washers are holding for the most part, remove the 2 x 4 and finish screwing in the rest of the plaster washers. Apply joint compound, at least 2 coats, feather it out, allow it to dry, sand, prime, repaint.


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## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

I personally don't like band aids unless it's a temporary fix or it's on my finger. 
Take it down and re-insulate while the wall is open, drywall and have a decent result. The alternative is, that you'll be constantly dealing with loose plaster. It's not just the bulge that's loose. It may be a good part of that whole wall.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Maybe press around on the wall. See if this is just loose or if something has moved. Also press around other areas of the wall and see if this is the only place loose or if there are others.

Depending on the age, the old wood lathe behind the plaster would be placed with a space between the lathe. These spaces would allow the plaster to squeeze between the wood strips and when dry this squeeze thru would dry forming what was called keys and these keys would hold the plaster tight against the lathe. Over the years these keys can break off allowing the plaster to come loose. In this case plaster washers will pull the plaster back tight when the screw goes in the wood backing.

Now saying all that. New plaster is installed using wire lathe. My question is with no wood backing for the screw to bite into will plaster washers still work?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zuj_1jhizt4&feature=related

Gary


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I have to say that video seems like a really bad idea. If the plaster is already loose and pulling away from lathe to use expanding foam, which is powerful enough that if you use it on a window it can force it out of shape till it won't open or close. It seems like to put it between the plaster and the lathe it would force a much greater separation, when what you want is to put the plaster back against the lathe. Maybe I'm missing something.


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## JourneymanBrian (Apr 1, 2015)

Scrape off the loose outer layer, and embed a fiberglass mesh over the entire surface when replastering.


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## JourneymanBrian (Apr 1, 2015)

http://www.luckysign.cn/upfile/proimage/201182221453632609.jpg

Here's what I mean


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

JourneymanBrian said:


> Scrape off the loose outer layer, and embed a fiberglass mesh over the entire surface when replastering.


OK let me start out saying I'm not a plaster guy. But if you just take off the outer layer which I'm assuming is like the finish coat and repair it as stated are you not going to have a large hump on the wall. And will you not still have the problem of the plaster pulled away from the lathe. The hump I was referring to was because of the pulled away plaster. Again being a drywall guy maybe I'm missing something.

I guess what I'm asking is does not the loose plaster need to pulled back into place before repairs can be made.


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## JourneymanBrian (Apr 1, 2015)

Remove ALL the loose plaster, fill the holes so you have a somewhat flat surface, then embed the whole mesh in a couple millimeters of plaster.

No, it won't fix the statics of the wall if it seems like it will collapse, but it would fix the problem of the tension which will otherwise lead to cracks.

But drywall in may in fact be faster, especially if you're less familiar with plastering large surfaces.


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## JourneymanBrian (Apr 1, 2015)

On the other hand, why DID the wall buckle? Sure your ceiling isn't sagging or something?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

That was my question also.


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## 78Vette (Nov 25, 2009)

The picture is not showing the whole wall, but the cracks that can be seen do mean that the plaster is loose and by the time ALL loose plaster is removed, you'd be surprised how large the damage can/will be. Not knowing the size of the wall, but amusing it's not very large, removing all plaster and drywalling would be my choice all day long.
I've done patches just like it, and when removing all loose material, there sometimes is no end to it, even if it looks good 3 feet away from the bulge or cracks. Often all the keys are laying on the bottom inside the wall and not much is holding the rest onto the wall.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

The places in my house where this occurred the scratch coat was no good. It would crumble between your fingers with little effort. Any attempt to make it look better always made it worse. I finally made up my mind to just admit defeat and tore it all out and put up drywall.


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## fortunerestore (Mar 6, 2014)

First clear away and dust or loose plaster around the hole and then using medium bristle brush scrub the area with solution of water and TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). Now mix setting-type joint compound, apply it over the tape, and groove using a putty-knife and evenly apply it to dry. In the end, apply high-quality latex primer and then paint.


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## restorationdude (May 28, 2015)

Is this an exterior wall? I had an almost identical situation judging by your attached pics. I removed the plaster and had a good look at what was happening. Water infiltration was actually affecting the stud work. Had to do quite a bit of drying, cleaning, removing cause of innfiltration, sistering the studs, then replace the finish (with drywall and skim coat). You need to get at root cause, a cosmetic restoration alone may be counterproductive. Best,


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