# first time using a texture gun



## samf (Sep 28, 2006)

OK, so I've got the drywally taped and floated and looking very nice - it's a learning curve but I feel confident with that. Now, time to texture it.

So I rented a steel texture gun with a plastic hopper at nations rent for 4 hours to try it out. I put the standard joint compound in the hopper, tried different consistencies (thinning out with water), and different air pressures. I'M SHOOTING FOR AN ORANGE PEEL TEXTURE. All I got was large inconsistent spatters - very heartbreaking work, and NOT on my list of intuitive things that you can just "do" out the of gate.

Inside Home Depot there is a gun for 48.00 and that uses a (disgustingly) small container of texture, which covers about 50 square feet. We are looking at huge amounts of money using this stuff.

Can't you use regular joint compound for texturing? Maybe the gun I have isn't the right type. PLEASE HELP.

Thanks,
Samuel


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

It takes some practice and technique....I am guessing you mean by orange peel, you are also meaning it will be a "knock down" finish...you spray it on, then using a broad blade, start at the top of the wall and single pass down? 

If you are getting too large of "globs", try higher pressure.


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## samf (Sep 28, 2006)

I was wanting it to be rounded vs. knockdown, but that might hide the larger "boogers" - do you recommend thinning with water - and how much. Also, is there anything I can mix with the joint compound - ore use in its place - which is not super pricey? I was just amazed at the cost of the mix with this gun - while 12.50 per 50 square feet is reasonable for a small patch, for a whole house that's another thing :-(

thanks,
Samuel


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

Some drywall guys I am sure will be along to give expert advice and I will steer a few over from cotractortalk.com....you are out of my league with specifics, since we do knock down on the new homes, but I cut the mud with water, and I would guess you would play with the thinning to get the effect you want. Mud is about the cheapest way to do it...dry mix would be cheaper...I wouldn't buy the ready to go product, simply due to the expense.


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## Paintguy26 (May 22, 2006)

yeah, dry mix is what most guys use...also, you could have picked a cleaner and easier DIY project than texture, couldnt you??? I couldnt imagine someone with no experience doing this:huh: ....it's tough to get it right....anyway, good luck~send a pic after


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## Remodeling (May 22, 2005)

Samuel,

You can use regular mud. I use a lot of Topping mud from Beadex. For orange peel use the small orfice. Mix water into the mud, you might be surprised at how much. Want the consistency of thick paint. Then a little practice and balancing of pressure and trigger pull. For orange peel I usually adjust the trigger pull for my hopper gun to between just 1/4 to 1/3. And pressure of 25 to 30 lbs.

Or you could buy Fastex texture mud. Mix just a little water to it.

Rich


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## jbob (Nov 24, 2006)

Remodeling said:


> Samuel,
> 
> You can use regular mud. I use a lot of Topping mud from Beadex. For orange peel use the small orfice. Mix water into the mud, you might be surprised at how much. Want the consistency of thick paint. Then a little practice and balancing of pressure and trigger pull. For orange peel I usually adjust the trigger pull for my hopper gun to between just 1/4 to 1/3. And pressure of 25 to 30 lbs.
> 
> ...


Everything Rich said is right on the money...although I crank
the pressure down to about 15 pounds with my hopper gun
to get a light orange peel..Good Luck and remember...
It's easy to scrape off your mistakes while they are still wet,
and operate with plenty of LIGHT. It's sometimes hard to judge
the quality of the job when looking at wet, shiny texture in a
poorly lit room.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Actually, any kind of 'ready-mix' compound will work. The key for orange peel, is to get the mixture to the consistency of pancake batter (by mixing with water). 
If the mixture sits for more than 1/2 hour while you are working, you should 're-mix' it before you use it again in the hopper.

After you spray and let the walls/ceilings dry...take a sand pole and give the surfaces a quick light sanding to 'knock' down any build-ups or chunks.


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## wannabuild (Dec 14, 2006)

I managed to pull this off once or twice. Bought a "wallboardtools" gun at depot $70. Used the ready mixed box of texture compound. Mix well with big drill. Everyone told me to mix it - let it sit 20 minutes and mix again.(don't know why) Like they said - takes trile & error. Shoot pcs. of osb or backs of extra drywall to get what you want. Have a helper move lights for you and hold cardboard so you don't spray windows. That hopper gets heavy real fast & you'll spill compound all over the place at first.
Main thing I learned - you will look carefully at your new painted walls and ceilings for a few days and then you'll realise - who cares! No one else is going to critique it as bad as you! Good Luck!


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Key is also the right 'nozzle' setting on the gun....You have to use smaller settings (try the smallest) to get the 'orange peel' effect.


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