# Repairing chimney crown



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm sure one of the masons will be right along.
I'm more concered with what looks like some funky flashing that was done around where the chimmney goes through the roof.
I would have built a sloped cricket on the high side to devert the water away or at least added a kick out deverter just above it. (just a bent piece of coil stock in the shape of an L.)


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A mason will be along soon enough----

I've only done a couple of those----I like to have the cap project beyond the brick by an inch and a half or more-----

As to the bricks---When you break out the old cap----some bricks may come loose and need to be reset---

Remember===those chimney pots are easy to replace when the cap is off---so inspect for cracks and spalling----


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

phrank said:


> Hi. I just recently bought this house, and I knew it needed some work. I've just replaced the roof, but am still getting water in the basement at the chimney. The chimney cap is totally compromised. There were 3 layers of concrete/mortar, and at least the first two layers were completely compromised. I've got those first two layers peeled off, but the first layer that is anchored via the cement that went into the brink holes. So, that all said, I have a few questions. 1) Do I need to chip away at that first layer to ensure it's gone before pouring a new cap?
> 
> Ideally, yes. You may need to repair the top course or two of corbelled brick though.......
> 
> ...


Be sure to be safe up there...........


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## phrank (Sep 18, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I'm sure one of the masons will be right along.
> I'm more concered with what looks like some funky flashing that was done around where the chimmney goes through the roof.
> I would have built a sloped cricket on the high side to devert the water away or at least added a kick out deverter just above it. (just a bent piece of coil stock in the shape of an L.)


 I understand what you are saying, and I can see how a sloped cricket or a kickout diverter would have been helpful (I had to look up what those were). That said, we just finished putting a roof on the house, and it was a friend and his dad that do roofing all the time that led the job. Although they didn't do what you recommend, I watched how he did the flashing, and I'm 100% confident that there won't be a problem with that flashing.


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## phrank (Sep 18, 2012)

Thank you all for the advice. I've got an air chisel that I'll use to remove that top layer and along the sides the best I can. It will be interesting, to say the least. Thanks again.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.handymanclub.com/projects/articletype/articleview/articleid/5166/chimney-crown


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## phrank (Sep 18, 2012)

Excellent step by step instructions. Thank you!


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## phrank (Sep 18, 2012)

*Replacing chimney crown*

My dad is helping me with the project, and we've gotten all the concrete chiseled away. We also have a mold all set, and we are planning on mixing and pouring tomorrow. I just wanted to confirm that regular QuikCrete cement is ok to use. My dad was told that it would be best to use QuickSet because it dries faster and harder. What is best to use? Thanks!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Speed is no advantage---regular set is easier------be sure to plunge a trowel around the edges to settle the concrete and prevent air pockets.

Do not make to sloppy a mix---must be stiff enough to hold its shape as you crown the top.


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## phrank (Sep 18, 2012)

*Replacing chimney crown (success!)*

Hi again. I just wanted to come back here and post a few pictures of the completed project. I think it came out rather nice. Thanks for all your advice!


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## strive4impact (Oct 4, 2017)

I repaired mine myself... total cost was about $250 including the cap. Got everything I needed on Amazon. Took about 4 hours to repair, over 2 days, since it was raining in the middle of it.


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## strive4impact (Oct 4, 2017)

Made a video of the process.






Hope that's helpful!


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