# DIY Power Rack



## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Hi everyone. I hit an issue building my power rack: the holes for the safety bars are too tight but I can't widen them a hair (which is all I need) since there's no longer a center for the bit to bite.
















Any advice apart from attaching a piece of wood to the back? I was hoping to buy a new bit since I'd have a lot of holes to make bigger but don't want to spend 60$ on a huge auger bit. The holes you see were drilled using a 1 1/4" bit.

Any help is appreciated.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I would just use a drill with a sanding drum on it to enlarge the hole. 

Please be cognizant of the fact that the steel in these cases is of a size that it needs to be and the maker of that rack probably didn't design a bunch of additional thickness so that you could open up the holes. 

Just removing a bit of steel could seriously compromise the strength of the rack.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Looks like a design error... either sand out the holes in the WOOD 4x4's or get a narrower bar that won't be as strong. Notice that when you sand, the grain tends to oblong each hole so end result may look amateurish. As you used bolts to install, take it apart and sand on a press, not by hand, unless you need very little removed. 
High room humidity or seasonal changes will also effect the wood hole sizes, especially unpainted. Nice job, other than that. I've widened with the same bit (no pilot point), letting it hit the sides, but only when appearance wasn't an issue.

Gary


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Im not touching the steel, just trying to make the wooden holes wider so the steel can be removed and inserted without struggling, bc right now the holes from on post to the other arent entirely level so the straight bar is a pain to get in n out since its crooked. I wanna widen the holes a tad.

The drum would need to be atleast a fee inches long to reach the center of the post. Any other suggestions?

What kind of drill would be able to do this? Regardless of price


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Looks like this person made there own some some round stock and adhesive backed sandpaper.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Yea i was looking to use a drill bit to widen the hole. Which would work best? I dont have a drill press and theres 56 holes so it needs to be on a mobile drill


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

See if your local High School Shop teacher will rent / loan a bigger bit to you. 


Try a rental place for a big bit, and maybe a commercial drill while you are there.


ED


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If you are talking about all the holes, you might be better suited to just pull the wood and drill new pieces.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Windows on Wash said:


> If you are talking about all the holes, you might be better suited to just pull the wood and drill new pieces.


On a drill press this time.

Trying to align holes by EYE is a lose/lose deal.


ED


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Upon further evaluating the rack, the holes are level across posts, because marked and cut them all at the same time, making sure to square them up. The problem I realized is the floor isn't even so I need to put some cedar shim between the rack and the matt

I'll see if I can borrow a bigger bit but the press wouldnt be worth it for me, nor would pulling the wood since they're attached almost everywhere:





































It's a shame because the pipe goes in, it just needs a little pursuasion for some numbers. I think some holes are less centered than others but no need to dismount and redo the 4x4s, which will both be expensive and time consuming. I'll just widen the holes and this I'm sure will give more play. 

It won't matter if they're too loose afterwards since they'll have hundreds of pounds of weight on them for any given exercise.

But which drill bit would I need, let's say I wanted to buy a bigger one (not sandpaper) to simply widen the holes? How about one of those step-bits?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You probably only need 1/8 inch bigger bit.

How do you propose to use a step bit, to enlarge any of these holes, all the way through the 4X4? 

Not a chance.


ED


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

So which bit would you recommend? Can I see some links? Auger? Spade?


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Just use a regular twist bit. It doesn't need a center.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

A link to what I would try.
on e-bay

ED 


http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-To...016725?hash=item3ce9d3e895:g:5pYAAOSwVFlUIMag


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Speed bore (paddle) bit (cheapest) or auger bit will also work, though can get pricey... you will get some egg shaping as said which could help as your original holes are square to the wood when one side should have been angled due to the 2" offset to get a straight bar started on that one side. A 6" auger will shave both sides on opposite ends at same time, shorter drilling time overall. The paddle will splinter out on the far side, need to drill from both ends of hole.

Gary


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

> The paddle will splinter out on the far side, need to drill from both ends of hole.


I fixed this by clamping pieces of wood on the back end of the post. But I tried buying the 1 1/2" spade bit and the difference is too significant. I'll just leave it like it is for now. 

Thanks for the suggestions everyone,


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## mike23 (Aug 6, 2016)

cool project!


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Use the same hole saw and try going at a slight angle inside the holes in a few directions.
May be able to remove just enough material.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Since building my power rack, the initial cracks have gotten considerably worse. Can anyone tell me if this is due to weight or the wood drying up? 






























And if I have to replace those 4 posts, how do I prevent this from happening again? The room is kept at 20 degrees Celcius year round.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Do you know if you used pine or a hardwood?

Also if the pipes going in those holes is still tight, that can cause wood to split.

I would be replacing these with a harder wood, and get the holes a bit bigger this time, to keep it from splitting.

Are you leaving the weights on the thing 24 / 7? :vs_no_no_no:

Never on wood structures without proper strengthening.


ED


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

I don't know which type of wood it is. I just went to the lumber yard and bought the only 4x4 posts they had. 

Below are photos that you may be able to decipher what type of wood it is, before it was painted.

If not, let me know, and I'll try to go back to that lumber yard and find out.

And no I store my weights off the rack when not in use.



Solidify said:


> Upon further evaluating the rack, the holes are level across posts, because marked and cut them all at the same time, making sure to square them up. The problem I realized is the floor isn't even so I need to put some cedar shim between the rack and the matt
> 
> I'll see if I can borrow a bigger bit but the press wouldnt be worth it for me, nor would pulling the wood since they're attached almost everywhere:
> 
> ...


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

Edit: I'm pretty sure it's softwood.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

The sky is not falling.

Just check it every now and then. All wood dries and shrinks.


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

This is a bit more than drying and shrinking. I have been checking it, this is after months...

I just wanna know how it can be avoided again if I end up replacing the posts...


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

On new posts, I would sleeve those holes.

Drill the holes oversized, then slip a sleeve of some kind in the hole to take the pressure and distribute it more .

Make sleeves from a pipe big enough to fit the bar into, and cut short to line just the wood. 

And yes I too would worry about it splitting suddenly when I was power lifting. 

I had a car fall off a jack 39 years ago tomorrow, Damned near killed me, Sure changed my life. Took 2.5 months before I could leave the hospital.

Now Things like that scare me.


ED


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## Solidify (Dec 17, 2014)

What about the type of wood?


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## abrowning (Jun 2, 2008)

I was also thinking that sleeving the holes is the way to go. Barring that, get some 3/8" x 4" bolts and washers and put them through the posts perpendicular to your existing holes. This will resist the splitting/spreading of the posts. 

Tighten the nuts just beyond hand tight. If after a few month the nuts are loose then your wood is still shrinking and you need to tighten them again. On the other hand if the washers are imbedded in the wood then your posts are spreading/splitting which isn't good news.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Solidify said:


> What about the type of wood?


Most places today have Spruce or pine lumber.

Which is a soft wood.

A few decades ago I got some OAK 4X4 s at a real lumber yard, you might still be able to, It will cost more, but what is your safety worth? (PRICELESS) 

I would be searching for some Ash, or Hickory, or Oak.

Something Sound ,strong, and sturdy.

I just had an idea, look at a reclaimed lumber salvage supplier.

They usually have lots of great reclaimed wood from 100 year old barns and buildings.

And those builders used great old hardwoods a lot.

You might need to have it made to fit your application, but well worth the cost when you consider the alternative. 


ED


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