# Issue with Anderson French Door. Help Please.



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

dorothyolive said:


> Hello, I am having some issues with my fairly new Anderson brand french exterior doors. My first and most prevalent issue is that one of our doors is leaking into our house regardless of my efforts to prevent it. I have cleaned the drain which is supposed to make excess water flow away from the bottom and I have caulked below the drain (did not block holes) with exterior water repelling silicone caulking. I have also repaired the door gasket. The door is relatively close to the cement patio and there is a flat roof above it. The door does not leak as much when it is locked, but water still finds a way in. The water leaks above and below the tar paper which was installed prior to the doors installation.
> 
> Our other door shares a different issue ( not the leaking part). The doors have become ridiculously hard to lock. I often have to put my full body weight on the door to push it in far enough to even try to lift the handle and turn the lock knob.
> 
> Thank you, DorothyOlive.


Dorothy!!! Could you post a picture of the both doors in the closed position but not locked!!!. Also Anderson has two style doors 1. Is a Slider 2. Would be a hinged door. there a adjustments on the door for both styles. plus another adjustment on the slider lock hardware. I'll be on the side, BOB


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## dorothyolive (Sep 28, 2008)

*Anderson French Doors*

The French door that doesn't leak but has a difficult locking issue it part of a 3 door system with only the center door hinged on the right (from inside) and working, the outer doors are fixed. There is an AW symbol with the numbers 2579514. There is also a US patent no. 4 548 432 below that. These numbers are located on the side of the door that has the locking mechanism that pokes into the lock plate. The door that leaks AND has difficulty with locking is a single, hinged on left (from inside) french door. It's AW no. is 
2579512 with the same US patent number. I'll try to get photos soon.
DorothyOlive


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

It sounds as tho the door is out of adjustment. do you have the Allen wrench and owners manual. NO! i doubt it. Right. I just installed a double unit. All the hinges Anderson uses, use the same size Allen wrench.
Tomorrow I'll look at it and post you the size . and procedure on the door Adjustment. unless someone could post a reply quicker, BOB


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## dorothyolive (Sep 28, 2008)

I still have the allen wrench and owners manual. The door has been adjusted at least three or four times, (the door without the leaking problem). Even though it was adjusted, it eventually sagged (?) again and needed adjustment again. The gasket on the bottom of that door completely shredded off. I'm telling you ... these doors were not inexpensive and I have had nothing but trouble with them. I'm more concerned with the leaky door though. I've just chosen the tile for the foyer and I refuse to tile before the water leaks are resolved. What I don't understand is the threash hold design (I call it the trip factor). That leaky door has been adjusted several times and nothing has helped stop or curb the leaking. Could it be too close to the patio and the rain run-off from the roof splashing onto the patio be causing the problem? Someone said gutters would be the cure all? What is your opinion? 
By the way, thank you for all your help with this
DorothyOlive :O)


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

dorothyolive said:


> I still have the allen wrench and owners manual. The door has been adjusted at least three or four times, (the door without the leaking problem). Even though it was adjusted, it eventually sagged (?) again and needed adjustment again. The gasket on the bottom of that door completely shredded off. I'm telling you ... these doors were not inexpensive and I have had nothing but trouble with them. I'm more concerned with the leaky door though. I've just chosen the tile for the foyer and I refuse to tile before the water leaks are resolved. What I don't understand is the threash hold design (I call it the trip factor). That leaky door has been adjusted several times and nothing has helped stop or curb the leaking. Could it be too close to the patio and the rain run-off from the roof splashing onto the patio be causing the problem? Someone said gutters would be the cure all? What is your opinion?
> By the way, thank you for all your help with this
> DorothyOlive :O)


in order for the gasket to have fallen off the bottom of the door, it would of had to of been out of adjustment for some period of time. Anderson will replace the gasket on the bottom, you will have to go to a distributor with the door size and model and your sales slip. I would also suggest getting hold of a Anderson tech. representative to come out and look at the door. Or have the person who installed the door to come back and look at it. I have the same type of door but single, and have noticed that when the door is shut hard constantly by the kids, I would have to readjust the door At least twice a year. which has stopped now that they are older. 
when adjusting the door all three hinges must be adjusted at the same time, You just can,t do one and leave it. the other two need to take up the slack also!. 
Could you post a picture? Bob


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## respad (Dec 14, 2008)

*same andersen door problem*

We have the same doors since 2003, and they have been a nightmare. I can't lock one (double french door), one has had the bottom weather stripping shred, and another needs constant adjustment. The one that shredded-- we have tried to adjust and it doesn't seem to work. There are three double sets of "holes" that are supposed to adjust with a hex wrench. We can't seem to get them to adjust he doors at all. Has anyone got a clue as to how to adjust them? We need them to go up
Thanks


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

use a 5/32 Allen wrench and start at the bottom hinge, turn the vertical adjusting screw clockwise or towards the plus sign on the hinge, (Only if the door needs to be lifted) continue to turn the screw until the door is centered in the opening, then move on to the next hinge, doing the same , when the door starts to lift again stop and back off a 1/4 turn. then move to the next hing moving up and repeat. 
your door should be set at the proper height..( centered in the opening.) Good luck BOB.


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## respad (Dec 14, 2008)

*We tried*

We did that and there is still a half inch clearance between the top of the door and the frame while the bottom has rubbed the weather stripping away. When we use the hex wrench, i removes the cap but little else on the hinge-- we must be doing something wrong, no?
Thanks again


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

respad said:


> We did that and there is still a half inch clearance between the top of the door and the frame while the bottom has rubbed the weather stripping away. When we use the hex wrench,
> 
> ```
> 
> ...


remove what cap!!!, the slot is at the bottom of the hinge. does the door get slammed a lot ?. you might need new hinges, which will be covered by Anderson.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Does water pond (collect) anywhere against the door? Are there ridges or contours in the wall or trim that would let water run into the seam between the door jamb and the wall or between the door and door jamb as opposed to away?

These situations need to be corrected. Caulking needs to be inspected every so often for pulling away from surfaces. Settling of the house can alter the pitch of door thresholds causing water to want to run inside instead of away.


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## hrjrkr (Dec 9, 2008)

dorothyolive said:


> The water leaks above and below the tar paper which was installed prior to the doors installation.
> 
> 
> Thank you, DorothyOlive.


Sounds like an installation issue (not properly flashed) if the water is coming underneath the tar paper. Also if the frame was not caulked when assembled could be another cause or if the threshold was not caulked prior to installing frame.


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## zircon (Sep 24, 2007)

*sagging Anderson French doors*

I installed a set of two Anderson French doors a while ago. (My doors, I'm a DIYer) When I opened the box the active door was square in the frame and held with spacers but the secondary door was missing the spacers on the bottom and the door was not square in the frame. I installed it anyway, thinking I would adjust the doors after I installed them. The active door is perfect but I was never able to get the secondary door right. It doesn't drag but I have to prop it open or it will close by itself. Anderson refused to send someone out and they were unpleasant on the phone.

That being said, when posters are talking about sagging doors, I wonder if it is the door frame that is sagging rather than the doors. The doors seem to be sturdily built and not likely to sag but the door frame is flimsy and depends for stiffness on being securely fastened to the rough framing. Perhaps they should remove one screw from one hinge at a time and see if there are only short screws holding the hinge. Short screws could be replaced one at a time with 3" screws that would grab into the rough door opening frame and provide stiffness for the door frame. Then when the door is adjusted, it should stay in place.


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

Original poster hasn't been on this thread since Oct. I'd relax.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

bob22 said:


> Original poster hasn't been on this thread since Oct. I'd relax.


Relaxation was short lived. poster 7 had a similar problem. BOB


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## respad (Dec 14, 2008)

*Poster 7*

I am poster 7. Called Andersen and they had us remove some covers and caps to see if the door was installed properly. It appears it was. At the bottom of the door is the wood sill--is that part of the door, or would it have been installed by contractor- can it be shaved or is here a replacement that would be shorter? We adjusted the hinges to the max, but door still scrapes he bottom and weatherstripping is gone
Thanks


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

the bottom of the door should be aluminum. it sound as tho the installer set the door on some type of sill. And I'm thinking the wood was installed incorrectly, could you post a picture of this area and post it. it would be a great help to see what your up against, BOB.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The doors were installed incorrectly. You won't correct the problem until you get someone in there who can correctly re-install the doors.
Ron


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## zircon (Sep 24, 2007)

*wood sill*

My Anderson doors came with an oak wood sill as part of the door frame. As mentioned earlier when I opened the box there were removable plastic spacers all around the doors to keep them centered in the frame. On the active door the spacers were all around but on the secondary door the spacers were missing on the bottom of the door and the door was sitting tight on the wood sill. I was able to adjust the door so it doesn't drag but it is not quite right as it will swing closed unless propped open. I suspect it was a manufacturing error in my case as the box did not ever have appeared to have been opened as in the case of the dealer selling a restock.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

zircon said:


> My Anderson doors came with an oak wood sill as part of the door frame. As mentioned earlier when I opened the box there were removable plastic spacers all around the doors to keep them centered in the frame. On the active door the spacers were all around but on the secondary door the spacers were missing on the bottom of the door and the door was sitting tight on the wood sill. I was able to adjust the door so it doesn't drag but it is not quite right as it will swing closed unless propped open. I suspect it was a manufacturing error in my case as the box did not ever have appeared to have been opened as in the case of the dealer selling a restock.


Contact Andersen Windows at 1-888-888-7020, they will ask you for your glass date and glass viewing area, and exterior color and purchase date. they will ask for a credit card number from you to charge you $132.50 or more depending how far the Service (sub contractor) Provider has too drive. Andersen does not own there own service company. The door has warranty, if the door is defective they will not charge you the $132.50, but that will be up too the Service Tech. They will teach you on how to correctly adjust the hinges, since must of us do not read instructions. I never heard of Andersen Windows selling opened boxes of product, this could have been a switch from the dealer, Andersen Windows does not take back any opened cartons period.


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## EmilyP (Dec 28, 2008)

respad said:


> We have the same doors since 2003, and they have been a nightmare. I can't lock one (double french door), one has had the bottom weather stripping shred, and another needs constant adjustment. The one that shredded-- we have tried to adjust and it doesn't seem to work. There are three double sets of "holes" that are supposed to adjust with a hex wrench. We can't seem to get them to adjust he doors at all. Has anyone got a clue as to how to adjust them? We need them to go up
> Thanks


Contact Andersen Windows at 1-888-888-7020, they will ask you some basic questions, glass date (found on every panel usually at the bottom) glass viewing area, and exterior color. Then if you what service to come out they will charge you $132.50 depending on the drive, +plus $20 an hour. But if the door if the door is defective, they will not charge you the $132.50/ hourly rate- never ever heard of weather stripping shearded off-it is a one piece weather strip that goes around the whole panel -this is heavy duty weather stripping- not saying it could not happen but it take a lot to tear it off, or would have too be customers negligence. 
5/32 allen wrench, if you adjust one hinge wait until you fell tension, count that turn as your first turn when you feel tension, then turn the wrench about 3 full times on each hinge, depending on if you feel tension, one hinge on the bottom could be carrying all the weight of the door. I would try adjusting the bottom hinge first, then the middle, then the top, if it needs more repeat the steps.


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## Judy Flaherty (May 19, 2014)

*Granny DIY'er*

I used your advice and was able to adjust my door into good alignment in all directions. When Bulebob said that he removed the caps, I think he was referring to the adjustment hole caps at the bottom of the hinge. I didn't remove these to start with and sheered one off at the bottom while trying to tighten it. If you unscrew these caps with a 7/32 wrench you can get to the inner adjustment opening with a 5/32 wrench (which also works on the inside door hinges) Thanks for your help with starting at the bottom and working my way up. That did the trick.


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