# Painting Dresser (MDF/Particle Board/Laminate) Help!



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Well, you overkilled the sanding part. All that was needed was a solid scuff to break the gloss.
Second problem - getting products and advice from HD. 
You can probably do a fair job with their mats, but there are so much better. And there probably is someone at some HD that actually knows what their talking about. I just haven't met him yet. 
Sounds like you want to do a nice job. 
Go to Ben moore and ask them for oil enamel underbody. 
That's the primer you want. 
Thin it just a tad and apply. it won't cover great, that's not what it does, but it will give you a good foundation and it will sand up nice with a light (220) paper/sponge.
As a DIY, you don't want lacquer or shellac. to hard to handle.
Your choices are a quality oil or waterborne enamel.
Both have +/-. 
Painted before? Used either of these before?
Also you talked about a sealer- after the paint? If you use a good enamel- not needed.
Prime- sand smooth-2 coats of enamel- done.
If you don't have a problem using oil- BM Oil Satin Impervo is a great product. Actually easier to handle than a waterborne because it doesn't dry as fast. 
Again- just a little spirits to help it brush and lay out. 
Use the right brush- ask at the real paint store. 
Good luck!


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

How many minimum wage/expert HD paint department people did you encounter? And how many convinced you you had a laminated piece? 

Trust me, you do not have a laminated piece of furniture. 

What you probably have is some sort of particle material furniture that can last you for years. Since it looks in great shape. 

I had some including a bed with underlighting, that along with a giant orange cat, drew chicks to me until I got SO old and he died. 

When an interior designer (aka as current girlfriend) demanded a color change? I had my fave body shop pick the piece up, fix any holes with bondo, and deliver it back all shiny in color of choice for like $40.

I guess you could try the minimum wage experts at Lowe's and Menard's first. And spend how much on spray paint from them being ever so crafty? I worked for two companies named Michael's in my life. The latter one will sell you little cans of spray paint.

The way to buy it is only one can the first time along with the magazine. Then look at the coupons. Walk back in and get 400 percent off your next purchase. Same day if you want. Buy 500 cans. 

- Steven


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## KCK (Aug 27, 2011)

*Smart replies!*

:thumbup: First, thank you - thank you - thank you!

I knew I over did it on sanding. I only sanded the top piece of the dresser, per some instructions I found online, I knew I didnt need to sand it too much. Hubby took the orbital to it and went a lil' crazy. Thankfully I dont have any splintering or weirdness going on and it is all still "smooth" so I am hoping this wont play a part in the long run. :whistling2:

I felt completely lost and frustrated after the many Home Depot AND Lowes visits....I think that is why I only grabbed 2 cans of Kilz and got the hell outta there. I will take them back and do your suggestion of the oil enamel underbody. I know I have a Sherwin Williams near by and will speak with them tomorrow...Im excited now! (Now that I know what Im looking for). 

I have painted quite a bit in other home projects and have used both water and oil based enamels...just not on furniture. I am pretty sure I can handle it. I was planning on a small roller on the top piece and a brush every where else.

Only one lingering questions: Paint the sides of the drawers? It is worth the hassle? 

I have to thank you again for the reply. One guy literally told me to "quit filling up the landfills with MDF and buy some REAL wood for a diy project"...that about broke my spirits. 

Thanks,

KCK


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Drawer sides are usually not painted, either is inside. The whole front until it wraps around and meets the box is usually done.
For cabs (or if this will be used for "danties..)
sometimes the interior is clear sealed so it stays clean and doesn't catch on things- totally optional.
SW has comparable paint to what I am suggesting. I think the enamel is Pro Classic satin oil.


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## KCK (Aug 27, 2011)

Fantastic! Im heading up in the morning and might actually be able to take a damn brush to this dresser by Sunday...its been sanded since 2 weekends ago. 

I will post my results. I know there just isn't a lot of info on the web for these kinds of projects (surprisingly) so it will be nice to have the finished results up.

Woohoo, the fun part of my project can finally begin....I knew I'd be kickin myself for not posting sooner.

Thanks again Brushjockey! :notworthy:


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## KCK (Aug 27, 2011)

*More trouble....*

Okay, please spare me the "this has been a 3 month project" speech....lol

I need help, again. Everything was going great until the paint job. Everything sanded beautifully, priming was a breeze...and I used all of the recommended things on the board. Until the paint. 

I went to SW and explained what I was doing and they really urged me to get an Acrylic (Latex) enamel *Extra white/Gloss*. I dont know if this is where I went wrong or not...

Hubby and I have a Husky HVLP spray gun (1.4 nozzle) that we decided to use for a better finish than using a brush as the brush (really nice one from SW) was giving us pretty bad brush strokes..even the smooth finish roller was causing a kind of bumpy look...so we really thought the spray gun would be the way to go. 

Well, look at the pic below. This is probably coat number 4 or 5 (we are sanding between coats - initially thinking that was the cause of the issue) and growing more frustrated. You can see two different paint patterns. The long stripes is what we have been dealing with the most...happens every single time. We have changed the setting on the gun, cleaned it, thinned the paint, not thinned the paint, change how we spray it, and it still gives us this look. The caddy corner look was our last approach out of sheer desperation. You can still see that even this has a striping effect too.

This pic was taken as soon as the paint was put on so I could more easily show you the striping. Its not AS severe when it dries, but is far from a smooth flawless glossy finish we are looking for.

Went to SW AGAIN today with pic in hand...they told me I need a 1.8 nozzle not the 1.4 Im using. My spray gun doesnt come with adjustable tips so that would be ANOTHER $50 to spend on a different type of HVLP which is now making my DIY project very expensive. I have seen other DIYers using this spray gun with better results.

Considering this is our first spray gun project...are we doing something wrong? I really have given hubby a hard time telling him he is not using a correct setting as it did seem like Coat 3 gave us a glossier finish....

Different paint maybe? I really argued with SW over using the latex as I wanted an oil based paint...and if so, can I just sand over what I have so far and repaint with something else or would I have to strip and reprime?

Please help, I am getting to the point of wanting to scrap this whole stupid thing. :help:


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

Hi KCK - You didn't say which line of enamel you got
"I went to SW and explained what I was doing and they really urged me to get an Acrylic (Latex) enamel *Extra white/Gloss*. I dont know if this is where I went wrong or not"

I gonna assume it is ProCoat and I have been having the same issues with repainting my kitchen cabinets. The "good" (read expensive) Purdy brushes seem only marginally better than the Linsers' from WalMart. The "quality" mohair or whatever rollers leave a similar finish to the Wally World foam ones. I haven't tried spraying the stuff yet as it's an interior job. Just the way it handles brushing I suspect it will take considerable thinning with a conditioning agent such as Floetrol. From your picture, I would say you aren't getting good atomization which means it isn't thinned enough, but, I'm just a DIYer so I'll be interested in following this thread to see what the pro's recommend. :whistling2:


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

jschaben said:


> The "good" (read expensive) Purdy brushes seem only marginally better than the Linsers' from WalMart. The "quality" mohair or whatever rollers leave a similar finish to the Wally World foam ones. :whistling2:


Wow! Kind of scary! Not sure what to say.


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

sdsester said:


> Wow! Kind of scary! Not sure what to say.


Hi Steve, I will say the Syntox does a better job than the rollers, either type of roller. But, the thing is more like a mop than a paint brush so, with a heavy bodied paint like ProCoat, the surface being painted almost needs to be horizontal, paint surface up. Doing the bottoms of the upper cabinets I'm going with the Pro-Extra. I got two models of those, glide and swan, whatever the:furious: that means. Didn't notice that till I got 'em home so didn't ask the SW guy what the difference is, if any. Syntox also isn't much for cutting in. Actually, after using it I didn't even try, needed a Clear cut for that
At any rate, I got more $$ tied up in brushes than I have in my HVLP, well, close, but I can't use the HVLP.
I do like the ProCoat paint though. Cabinets are pine and MDF primed with Cover Stain. 
Overall, the job is acceptable, just not quite as good as I was expecting.


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## KCK (Aug 27, 2011)

Hey guys -

Just to clarify I have the SW brand All surface enamel paint. I specifically said "the best paint you have" for painting a dresser when I purchased it...and the brush...which I know I paid over $10-$12 for is SW brand "Contractor Series" Black China Bristle...the HVLP I have is a semi-cheapie (but should get the job done) brand is Husky from Home Depot.

I do not know if that helps any but again, the big issue here - for me - is the paint I am using and the issue with the stripes.

I thought the issue was the viscosity or atomization as well...but the guy at SW today specifically said I did not need to thin this paint at all as it messes with the "hardness" and curing capability of the paint. We did have thinned paint on the first couple of applications and there wasn't really a difference...both with the stripes or the 4 hour dry time. The guy today swore I had too small of a nozzle (1.4 instead of a 1.8) and this is the issue. I ran to Home Depot and every single HVLP there has a 1.4 tip with NO other tips to purchase so I am starting to think the guy at SW was just...well, wrong! :huh:

I had read that the conditioner for latex paint is a good recommendation but that it does not help with either viscosity or atomization...correct me if I'm wrong...Ive thought about getting some but really do not think that will help with what I am experiencing.

Im starting to feel like a intermediate as opposed to a rookie now a days. I swear I will be a damn expert when this is all said & done :tongue_smilie: I just thought this was supposed to be a fun DIY weekend project heh heh.


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

imho i think sherwin williams did not recommend the right paint .for a ultimate finished i would have used pro classic acrylic or pro classic waterborne alkyd .this paint has a slight learning curve ,purdy 2 1/2 flat nylon polyester brush. brush the paint on make sure its covered and don't go back over it once it starts to dry to avoid brush marks


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## KCK (Aug 27, 2011)

Ecchh that was one of my concerns...would a sand and a repaint be okay or would I need to sand and prime before the repaint?

How would that paint spray do you think? I feel like we are 90% there with the method/paint we are using....I am just not sure what the issue is at this point.

I did really go at it with the SW guy with the paint due to BrushJockey's previous suggestion...he was adamant that I use the SW All surface Acrylic enamel while I really thought oil based was the way to go. 

:confused1:


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## iminaquagmire (Jul 10, 2010)

No need to sand or prime again. Just scuff the surface. The All Surface Enamel is good but has a steep learning curve and is very finicky. Especially if you were trying to spray it without a large tip. I would personally use the ProClassic acrylic/alkyd paint. It will level very nice, even with a brush. Plus it cleans up like an acrylic. The only caveat is that they don't have a deep base and you cant get darker colors.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

a smooth flawless glossy finish we are looking for

never going to happen:no:, spraying furniture( or anything else) takes YEARS of practice to do properly


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Hi KCK, sorry to hear of your struggles. I know how frustrating this stuff can be. I think you have a couple of issues going on here. Firstly, your brush. China bristle is not for latex, so I'm not surprised that you got lousy results, and a ruined brush when you went to wash it out. Secondly, I don't think you should have opted to spray. I'll second Chrisn's sentiment. Any inexperienced HO/DIY can stumble through and achieve an acceptable spray result. But that requires that all the planets line up accordingly, which rarely occurs. It's the experience acquired through years of application that enables overcoming challenges when they don't line up. We can send you on a goose chase for a 1.8 tip for your gun, but what if there isn't one, or it's not the tip that is causing the problem? What if it's not a furniture grade gun? Go to any pro painting forum and you'll hear experienced guys asking questions about issues they're having with spraying, even simple projects. And when I hear Husky from HD, I think of the tool box I bought that fell apart in the back of the truck, before I even put tools in it. Or the ratchet driver I bought that only ratcheted for about three days. There will be those who say, there goes Jsheridan again, pooh poohing someone's plan. I say have at it. Part of giving sound advice is helping people understand and accept their limitations and managing their expectations. I've painted countless pieces of furniture, both for pay and personal, and I've never sprayed one of them. Even built-in cabinetry, which is a furniture grade project. I've never had anyone question its look. But I know what products to use and how to apply them. The first piece of advice you got, from Brushjockey, was right on. I generally prefer oil for furniture, which if far easier to use and much more forgiving. Todays acrylic paints are very finicky and can be difficult to use with minimal brushing experience. Put an end to your misery. Apparently, SW is more concerned with selling you what they want you to have rather than what you want, so, go to Ben Moore, get yourself a quart of Satin Impervo oil, a small mohair roller cover, and a decent 1.5 inch synthetic brush (better than today's china bristles imo). Give the piece a good sanding with 150 grit paper, clean the dust off and apply two coats, with a real fine (220) sanding between. Thin the paint a bit with some thinner. You should be able to roll practically the entire piece with just a bit of cut in. You'll have a nice uniform finish that should level out nicely. Good luck with it.
Joe


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

jsheridan said:


> Hi KCK, sorry to hear of your struggles. I know how frustrating this stuff can be. I think you have a couple of issues going on here. Firstly, your brush. China bristle is not for latex, so I'm not surprised that you got lousy results, and a ruined brush when you went to wash it out. Secondly, I don't think you should have opted to spray. I'll second Chrisn's sentiment. Any inexperienced HO/DIY can stumble through and achieve an acceptable spray result. But that requires that all the planets line up accordingly, which rarely occurs. It's the experience acquired through years of application that enables overcoming challenges when they don't line up. We can send you on a goose chase for a 1.8 tip for your gun, but what if there isn't one, or it's not the tip that is causing the problem? What if it's not a furniture grade gun? Go to any pro painting forum and you'll hear experienced guys asking questions about issues they're having with spraying, even simple projects. And when I hear Husky from HD, I think of the tool box I bought that fell apart in the back of the truck, before I even put tools in it. Or the ratchet driver I bought that only ratcheted for about three days. There will be those who say, there goes Jsheridan again, pooh poohing someone's plan. I say have at it. Part of giving sound advice is helping people understand and accept their limitations and managing their expectations. I've painted countless pieces of furniture, both for pay and personal, and I've never sprayed one of them. Even built-in cabinetry, which is a furniture grade project. I've never had anyone question its look. But I know what products to use and how to apply them. The first piece of advice you got, from Brushjockey, was right on. I generally prefer oil for furniture, which if far easier to use and much more forgiving. Todays acrylic paints are very finicky and can be difficult to use with minimal brushing experience. Put an end to your misery. Apparently, SW is more concerned with selling you what they want you to have rather than what you want, so, go to Ben Moore, get yourself a quart of Satin Impervo oil, a small mohair roller cover, and a decent 1.5 inch synthetic brush (better than today's china bristles imo). Give the piece a good sanding with 150 grit paper, clean the dust off and apply two coats, with a real fine (220) sanding between. Thin the paint a bit with some thinner. You should be able to roll practically the entire piece with just a bit of cut in. You'll have a nice uniform finish that should level out nicely. Good luck with it.
> Joe


This is just what I would have said, if I could write like Joe.:thumbsup:


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Thanks Chris. Maybe so, but it was what you wrote that inspired to respond. Had you not input, I may have just clicked through. Takes the whole team to move a ball downfield. High five!:thumbsup::laughing:


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## KCK (Aug 27, 2011)

I sincerely appreciate your reply. (All of em) I feel like I knew what the problems were - just unsure how to proceed without feeling like I was going to be wasting more time & money. The whole project I felt pretty confident (since my original post on here anyway) until SW really pushed me into the acrylic latex environment. I knew it was wrong because of what I was told on here and I just felt uneasy since then. Kickin myself for buyin it!:shifty:

Just sippin' morning coffee and will go over this with hubby and send him up to the store...lol I am sick of going. :thumbup:

Thanks again!!


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

KCK said:


> I sincerely appreciate your reply. (All of em) I feel like I knew what the problems were - just unsure how to proceed without feeling like I was going to be wasting more time & money. The whole project I felt pretty confident (since my original post on here anyway) until SW really pushed me into the acrylic latex environment. I knew it was wrong because of what I was told on here and I just felt uneasy since then. Kickin myself for buyin it!:shifty:
> 
> Just sippin' morning coffee and will go over this with hubby and send him up to the store...lol I am sick of going. :thumbup:
> 
> Thanks again!!


I don't think it was wrong to use the latex. I have a piece sitting next to me with black satin SW All Surface latex enamel, did it the same time I did a bookcase for a customer. I use both, but prefer oil. I recommended you use the oil because it will mimic a spray finish better. Oil takes longer to dry, so therefore has longer to level. You don't have to worry about blocking, things sticking to it. I think it just has a nicer finish, IMO. And, it's easier to use, IMO, than some of the new waterborne finishes. You might want to try using the paint you have now, just don't spray. Use the same technique recommended for the oil. Keep us posted.
Joe


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

He is right, it is not the paint. I have used waterborne plenty and it is a fine product for this. It is not the easiest to work with and as Joe has pointed out, oil would most likely be the best(easiest) choice.


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