# Shopping list for first drywall project?



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

So Ive got my drywall up, what do I need to finish the job? I need to tape seams, finish inside and outside corners. So I need a list of tools and materials to take to Lowes, keep in mind Ive never done this before so I need to buy everything.

Ok, I have a Lowers right down the street so preferably Id like to get everything from there.


*Edit..

So we have:

1. Mud pan (metal not plastic)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_245817-5183...uctId=3086943&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

2. 4' knife
http://www.lowes.com/pd_245913-5183...uctId=3027812&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

3. 6' knife
http://www.lowes.com/pd_246010-5183...uctId=3054693&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

4. 12' knife
http://www.lowes.com/pd_245822-5183...uctId=3054675&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1

5. All Purpose joint compound (Green Lid)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_11751-325-380501_4294858286__?productId=3009538&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

6. Mixing paddle (non paint version)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_245395-5183...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=


I have a 5 gallon bucket, is that the kind of bucket youre talking about? And scrub brush, got that.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You need---a mud pan---6"-10" 12" blades---buy the best .

A couple of folding platforms will help,rather than a ladder---

You need a bucket of All Purpose(green lid) for setting the paper--it has glue and is rather hard---also good for first coat after paper

A bag of Easy Sand 20 or 45 minute---useful to fill voids and miss cuts--pack outside corner bead----

And a bucket of Light Weight---(blue lid) this is a smooth easy to sand mix for your top coat----

A bucket for washing and a scrub brush .


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Buy a couple of the big fat "brick-size" sponges, too.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

And a shop vac.....it's going to be messy when you start using that drywall sander after each coat....oh yea...you need a drywall sanding block...

Some guys use sponges....but that is because they are real good with the knife....us 'common' folk need to sand....


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i like the angle sanding sponges. you need paper tape and a 3-4" knife for the inside corners.
count the sticks of corner bead you need. plastic and tape if you need to contain the air from the rest of the house when sanding. a face mask when sanding.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Above all, remember this: "If you don't put it on, you don't have to sand it back off!"

Five or six thin, clean layers are just as effective as one big, gobbed-up thick layer. And if you keep all your work looking nice and scraped off, CLEAN, you won't have to spend hours of messy sanding trying to get the hardened gunk back off.

When you walk away from wet drywall mud, it should ALREADY look as good as if you had finished sanding it.

HINT: It helps if you keep one of those sponges handy, and continually keep your metal tools wiped off and wet.

BIG HINT: TURN OFF YOUR A/C !!!!!!!!!


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Arsinek said:


> So Ive got my drywall up, what do I need to finish the job? I need to tape seams, finish inside and outside corners. So I need a list of tools and materials to take to Lowes, keep in mind Ive never done this before so I need to buy everything.


1. drop cloths-not plastic they are very slippery
2. drywall joint compound- probably 5 gal bucket. Unless you have large places 
that need filled the all-purpose in the bucket with the bright green lid 
should be all you need.
3. drywall knifes- 1-4" 1-6" and 1-12" a 10" will do and is a little easier to 
handle if you find the 12 too big.
4. a mud pan- get the metal one not the plastic one.
5. drywall tape- big difference of opinion here. I wholly recommend paper tape.
and watch some videos on using it on you tube.
6. corner bead for outside corners-choices here are several, metal, vinyl, paper 
covered metal and so on all have pros and cons. Do research on the net. 
If you go with vinyl you will need a can of spray glue it will be with the 
drywall supplies. If you go with the metal bead get a small box of drywall
nails just for the corner bead. The nail heads are a lot easier to cover than
screw heads.
7. inside corner bead- I'm just going to throw this out as a suggestion. Since 
you are totally new to this there are companies that make pre-cut inside
corner beads(Nocoat, and Trimtex come to mind) these will make your life 
so much easier. However they are a little pricey and you will need to 
contact a drywall store lowe's and the depot don't carry them.
8. drill and mixing paddle- A drywall paddle not a paint mixing paddle
9. plastic- a roll of thin painters plastic to cover furniture and doorways there
will be a LOT of dust.
10. sanding- you will need sanding sponges, sanding screens,(not sand paper) 
150 and 220 grit, and a pole sander.

This list should pretty well get you on your way in case I forgot something there will be others who will add to the list and some that will challenge a few of the items. When that happens do you research and decide for yourself what will work better for you. Hope this helps you and good luck.


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> You need---a mud pan---6"-10" 12" blades---buy the best .
> 
> A couple of folding platforms will help,rather than a ladder---
> 
> ...



Do I really need all those different kinds of mud?


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

Willie T said:


> Above all, remember this: "If you don't put it on, you don't have to sand it back off!"
> 
> Five or six thin, clean layers are just as effective as one big, gobbed-up thick layer. And if you keep all your work looking nice and scraped off, CLEAN, you won't have to spend hours of messy sanding trying to get the hardened gunk back off.
> 
> ...



Im surprised I havent killed my AC already. Ill start turning it off from now on.


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

There appears to be a few different mud mixers, any recommendations?

http://www.lowes.com/Tools/Hand-Too...le-_-SC_Drywall_TopFlexible_Area-_-238609_6_#!


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Arsinek said:


> Do I really need all those different kinds of mud?


How much drywall are you doing?

Each mud has it's purpose---some pro tapers use only multipurpose.
The do not need to sand very much so the fact that it is hard as can be makes little difference--


I explained the use of each mud----
if you want the tape to stick, use multi purpose for that---
If you are going to have to sand--use the light weight topping compound
If you have gaps to fill or mistakes to hide---use powdered Easy sand

You choose the ones to skip----Mike----


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yes the 30" paddle mixer. Wow I need to type faster wasn't any answers when I started.LOL But you don't need to turn the a/c off till you start sanding.


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Yes the 30" paddle mixer. Wow I need to type faster wasn't any answers when I started.LOL But you don't need to turn the a/c off till you start sanding.



This one?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_245395-5183...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=


----------



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Arsinek said:


> This one?
> 
> http://www.lowes.com/pd_245395-5183...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=


yep that will do.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

So why mix your own when you can buy the pre-mixed ready to go?


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

There isn't any need for more than 1 bucket of compound. Setting compound (the powder you mix) has other uses but if you live in the house and are not in a big rush, you don't really need it. Special types have special uses, but the all purpose is exactly that - works OK for any of the coats.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

ddawg16 said:


> So why mix your own when you can buy the pre-mixed ready to go?


Even with the pre mixed when you open it you should add some water (a little less than a qt.) and stir it. This makes it loose and almost creamy and a LOT easier to work. Then when you close the bucket say for the night the next day you should stir again before you use it. Straight from the bucket it is stiff and hard to work and did you ever notice when you open a bucket a lot of times there is what looks like water on the top. This needs mixed back in also. And yes you can use all purpose for everything as long as you thin it and mix it. But even if you don't thin the mud it should be mixed daily.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I agree it's usually good to mix the joint compound when you get it from the store, as it's been sitting for weeks or months. However I think mixing it daily is really overkill.


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

ddawg16 said:


> And a shop vac.....


Nothing chews up motors like drywall dust so get a shop vac that takes disposable bags. 

Other than that, the lists people have suggested make sense as do how to work the material.

I would add that most first timers tend to underapply and then try to overwork the mud. I am certainly not suggesting you leave extra on the wall because you will have to sand or wet sponge it off. But for your first pass. Goop wads and wads of the stuff in your seams. Press your tape into it. Then use a wide knife to press all together to the wall surface and skim off the excess that oozes out the edges. That's it for the first pass. Use paper tape too. If you overwork it or try to skim mud over it on the first pass you risk tearing up or bubbling your tape. 

If you did not do the drywall job? Grab a screw gun and make sure all the screws got set below surface level before you start mudding or you will have to stop and grab the screw gun anyhow.

Quickly re-read the post here and noticed nobody mentioned those interior and exterior finishing tools. They are more or less worthless IMO. Although, I onced a very long and flexible inside corner thing that was rather nice. I found it slowed me down though.

Those inside corner strips are really quite nice. For example. 

http://trim-texestore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=247


----------



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

for a bucket about a pint maybe a pint and half of clean water to mix it. I like using the mud that comes in a box just open it up dump it in a clean bucket add a pint of water mix use. but the green lid is good and I use it for every thing. when i do my mud and tape and do my out side corner beads I put in a additive called mud max and I only use that for taping and corner beads. after that it is just The green lid or in my area I use beadex red lid or red box. which is the same thing made by USG.


----------



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

sdsester said:


> Nothing chews up motors like drywall dust so get a shop vac that takes disposable bags.
> 
> Other than that, the lists people have suggested make sense as do how to work the material.
> 
> ...


Um fiber cement siding dust eats up motors even faster.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

There are ways to manage the dust. One is simply setting up a fan system that moves the dust out a window. Open a window and put a box fan in there, blowing out. Put another fan near the door of the room blowing in. Of course there must be another window or door open in the house for this to work.

Another option is the water based vacuums, such as these
http://www.sandkleen.com/products.htm

They also sell kits at Home Depot, or you can Google for DIY versions of these.


----------



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Yes the trimtex inside corner bead nice but you have to use divergant staples and spray adheasive for it to adhere. I would rather use beadex b2 inside metal paper face corner bead run it in to a mud hopper aply it to the wall run your knife down each side and in 20 min you can't pull it off and in 24 hours you can't kick it off and it is warranted for a life time of no cracks. I switched to metal paper faced beads zero call backs. easy to use.


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

And before we forget, remember to toss a furnace filter or two over any nearby cold air returns and turn off the HVAC if you can tolerate the temp and humidity until the dust settles or you could end up with dry wall dust distributed throughout your home. It is not a bad idea to switch out your HVAC filters on principle after doing drywall work.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

jeffnc said:


> I agree it's usually good to mix the joint compound when you get it from the store, as it's been sitting for weeks or months. However I think mixing it daily is really overkill.


If you look when you open it the next day you will see where the cream is coming to the top and to remix only loosens it up and makes it easier for you.



sdsester said:


> Nothing chews up motors like drywall dust so get a shop vac that takes disposable bags.
> The biggest problem with a shop vac is the filter plugs up so easy because the drywall dust is so fine, you are almost continously cleaning it. If you don't that's when it burns the motor out.
> 
> Quickly re-read the post here and noticed nobody mentioned those interior and exterior finishing tools. They are more or less worthless IMO. Although, I onced a very long and flexible inside corner thing that was rather nice. I found it slowed me down though.
> ...


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ToolSeeker said:


> If you look when you open it the next day you will see where the cream is coming to the top and to remix only loosens it up and makes it easier for you.


Well obviously if that is happening it's only common sense to mix it. I don't know what kind you're using, but mine definitely does not separate in a day.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

sdsester said:


> I would add that most first timers tend to underapply and then try to overwork the mud. I am certainly not suggesting you leave extra on the wall because you will have to sand or wet sponge it off.


I don't know why that's the instinct, but it is. Also, they underestimate how far out to fan it.

Since compound tends to shrink, it's really not a bad idea to leave a slight hump in places. For example over screw heads. You just know it's going to shrink and you're going to have to add more tomorrow! But I guess it's faster to do 3 flat coats, than to guess at how much extra to leave on and then sand off.


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

Im thinking of getting this for the outside corner bead, I think its what was used in my house originally....
http://www.lowes.com/pd_11822-31705-036008-9144_4294858285__?productId=3084133&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

Seems easy to use.


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i tried those inside corners from trimtex and they kinda suck. i wasnt impressed. you cant beat good old paper tape for inside corners. inside corners that arent square i use ultra flex nocoat 325. i also use nocoat for my outside corners but you need a corner roller so for a diyer without a pile of tools or a big pocket book i dont recommend it for outside corners. you can use the metal corners just check your gap with a drywall knife. i'd recommend http://www.lowes.com/pd_371772-27-313725_0__?productId=3509068
you spray water on the back of it with a spray bottle and you stick it to the corner and check spacing with your knife.


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

princelake said:


> i tried those inside corners from trimtex and they kinda suck. i wasnt impressed. you cant beat good old paper tape for inside corners. inside corners that arent square i use ultra flex nocoat 325. i also use nocoat for my outside corners but you need a corner roller so for a diyer without a pile of tools or a big pocket book i dont recommend it for outside corners. you can use the metal corners just check your gap with a drywall knife. i'd recommend http://www.lowes.com/pd_371772-27-313725_0__?productId=3509068
> you spray water on the back of it with a spray bottle and you stick it to the corner and check spacing with your knife.


When you say check the spacing, what spacing are you referring to?


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

here i googled a pic http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH00MAY_DRYWFT_06.jpg

i use a 6-8" knife to check the gap. and i check both sides and work your way down the corner bead.


----------



## Arsinek (Aug 13, 2012)

princelake said:


> here i googled a pic http://hostedmedia.reimanpub.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH00MAY_DRYWFT_06.jpg
> 
> i use a 6-8" knife to check the gap. and i check both sides and work your way down the corner bead.



Is there supposed to be a gap?


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

yes there is suppose to be a gap there. that is where you fill it with mud to give you a nice corner. if you have large and small gaps that means your corner bead is twisted. if you dont leave enough gap the screws/nails will show.


----------



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Don't use the metal bead use USG's or beadex metal paper face beads


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I really don't understand the gap part either. I think we must call it something else. And yes no coat is very good.


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

you dont understand the gap thing? and you do drywall and have used nocoat??


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

That "gap", and the mud that fills it up, feathering out the corner, are one of the very points of using corner bead. ???????!?!?!?!?


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Willie T said:


> That "gap", and the mud that fills it up, feathering out the corner, are one of the very points of using corner bead. ???????!?!?!?!?


Know what your talking about now, never heard it called "the gap." In fact never knew it had a name, it was just considered part of installing corner.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

ToolSeeker said:


> Know what your talking about now, never heard it called "the gap." In fact never knew it had a name, it was just considered part of installing corner.


Me neither. But I guess "gap" is as good as anything. I think I'd call it a "mud pocket".


----------

