# Hose bibb: worn out screw



## autorun (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi all,

Need your help again 
I am trying to fix a dripping hose bibb. Since the screw on the top has worn out so badly, I tried PB Blaster to lossen it up, made a new Phillips slot and used a screw extractor without success. It will be perfect if I can replace the whole host bibb. However, I think it is a soldering type and I don't feel comfortable to deal with flame unless it is the last resort.

Any advice how to take out the top screw?

Thank you all.
James


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

Have you tried just snugging up the packing gland nut that is just below the handle?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Unscrew the whole thing and toss it in the trash, go buy a new one for a 100% sure way to fix it.


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

Yes this a soldered hose bib, but to install one safely you have to remove the shaft, handle, gland nut, and valve washer anyway, so why not just take this picture with you to Menards, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply and get all new guts to put in your perfectly good valve body. No soldering, and all new parts.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Maybe I am hallucinating, but don't I see a hex on the valve where it attaches to the (copper?) pipe leaving the wall? If so, you just put a wrench on it and take the whole thing off. I have lots of hose bibs around my house, they are all threaded, look a lot like yours.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I can see a hex in both pictures.
A new valve would cost less then all the parts needed to fix it.
Just clean off the paint right behind the hex to see if you can see threads.


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## autorun (Jan 20, 2012)

Thx joecaption, Grampa Bud and Daniel.

It will be perfect if I can replace the whole bib. I tried to unscrew the whole bib with 2 wrenches, but it wasn't turned a bit. Since I guess it is soldered, I didn't put a lot of brutal force to turn it. 

I will do this.
From joecaption, *"Just clean off the paint right behind the hex to see if you can see threads."

*I hope it is threaded and I can replace it with a nice one.*
*


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## plumberinlaw (Feb 22, 2010)

If you insist in repairing it, grind off the head with a dremel, remove handle, grab what is left of screw with vice grips and turn. If that does not work you will have to drill it out and re-tap it. If it is threaded (hard to see with all that paint) two pipe wrenches will have it off in 30 seconds. If it is sweated turn off the water open the valve remove with torch, hold hot valve with channel lock pliers to pull off pipe. removal should take about 1 minute


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Take off the paint as recommended, then you can see if it is threaded (I think I can see the threads even in the photo, but cannot be sure). If it is threaded, you need two people and two pipe wrenches to avoid damaging the pipe. Put one pipe wrench on the pipe just after the hex, and one pipe wrench on the hex. The paint may have frozen the valve on, you can break it free with a two foot length of pipe over the pipe wrench (I have a couple of persuaders I keep around for just this sort of problem). Make sure the pipe wrench holding the pipe in place is tight and facing the correct direction, else you will destroy the pipe and have a bigger headache. Assuming it is threaded of course.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If you find it's steel pipe then it also could be stuck because of contact with the bronze valve.
I'd apply some heat on the valve before I tryed using a cheater bar.
One trick I've used is apply heat, dump cold water on it then apply heat again. The expantion and contraction of the valve will break the corroision bond.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Grampa Bud said:


> Yes this a soldered hose bib, but to install one safely you have to remove the shaft, handle, gland nut, and valve washer anyway, so why not just take this picture with you to Menards, Home Depot, or a plumbing supply and get all new guts to put in your perfectly good valve body. No soldering, and all new parts.


 Well disregard my previous post,that was a sweated joint.


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## autorun (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi all,

These are the pictures. Would you please help to tell me whether it is solder or threaded. There are 2 iron things on the copper pipe. 

Hope the pictures can show the detail such that you can help me out.

Thx


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Wow,I wouldve sworn that looked like a threaded joint to me! 
I owe grandpa a steak dinner! :laughing:


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Well now that we know what youre up against heres another idea.
Unscrew the packing nut under the handle then go ahead and turn the handle like youre opening it .
Just keep turning it till the stem comes out of the faucet then youll have access to the screw and washer on bottem of the stem to replace them.
Reverse procedure to reinstall


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

But in my defense that particular faucet was designed to go on a piece of threaded pipe. :laughing:


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## autorun (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi Plummen,

You made me felt that I am the stupidest guy in the world. Even if the handle screw was worn out, I can take out the whole thing that easy. Oh my goodness.

The spindle is out. I am driving to Lowe's to buy the replacement. 

Thx all for the hints. No soldering and flame.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Ive done worse things,trust me ive been doing this a while! :laughing:


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Now that its out put one end of the handle in a bench vise and grab on to the screw head with a pair of vise grips and see if you can turn it out that way.
then you can grab a package of the rope style packing and put a couple twists of it around the stem before reinstalling the cap and handle.
then youll have a completel rebuilt faucet. 
Yet another option is to find a new stem that fits the valve and a new handle then just hacksaw the handle off the old stem so you can reuse the cap,just install some of that rope style packing before reinstalling the cap.
Lots of options here for ya


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

Hey Plummen, my tired old eyes decieved me the first time around. I didn't see the flats of the hex at the inlet to the hosebib. I was giving myself a huge AW **** when I saw all the replies, especially from MR. Holzman, but upon looking at the pictures again I actually lucked out in my prognosis. This was a hack job, probably by an uninformed homeowner trying to save a few bucks. There's 3/4" copper coming out of the wall that is sweat to a 3/4" male adapter and that adapter was supposed to be taped and/or doped and then the hosebib was to be tightened onto the male threads. However whoever put this together put solder paste on both sets of threads, tightened everything up and used solder to further seal the hose bib to the copper. They probably didn't take the guts out of the bib before they soldered it either, so any rubber or packing is shot as well. The easiest would to rebuild the the bib, in place, but if a new one is preferred just sweat the male adaptor off the pipe and replace the bib the correct way. Sorry.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Whats really scary is i dont even see a male adaptor on there,almost like they just shoved thr copper in and soldered it up hoping for the best! :laughing:


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## autorun (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi all,
Thx for your great help!

I have tried these but without success.

1. Tried to open the worn out handle screw such that I can replace the washer;
2. Tried to buy a new bib and used the new stem to replace the existing old one;
3. Bought packing rope and used it to surround the stem;

Do I have to sweat out the bib and put a new one there? If it is true, then I need to call a professional plumber.

Autorun


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Well if youre not having any luck with the other ideas(sorry about that! )
Id go ahead and pick up a frost free faucet and install it or have it installed in place of the old chopped up mess .
Can you get a picture of the plumbing inside the basement leading out there?


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## autorun (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi Plummen,

The pipe is being hidden behind the kitchen cabinet, so I can see how the pipe goes outside. I am thinking to completely replace the broken hose bib. Since I am in SCAL, I don't need a frost free faucet. 

My idea as a newbie :thumbup:

i. Cut out the existing hose bib (don't know I really need this step);
ii. Torch and take out the copper pipe adapter;
iii. Sweat in a new male adapter;
iv. Screw in a female hose bib;

A friend of mine told me that it should be an easy task.

Thx.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Id just sweat the adaptor a lot closer to the wall :thumbsup:


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