# Installing Garage Entry Door. Fire rated door needed?



## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Check with your local building department. They will advise you if a fire rated door is required and what length of fire rating is required. 

As for needing one, even if the building department says it is not required, I would put one in if the garage is attached. 

The reason why is that garages hold a lot of chemicals that are potentially flammable. If you have any gas powered devices, lawn mower, weed trimmer, leaf blower, etc., you probably have a gas can. Which can go boom. 

A hollow core door provides minimal protection. A solid core door provides some protection. And a fire door provides protection in certain ratings. Typically 15, 20, 30 minutes or longer. 

You install it the way you would any door. Just use fire proof caulk or foam to fill in the gaps. You can by pre-installed or slab fire doors. Buy which ever works in your situation.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

If you pull out the handle you should be able to figure out if it's a solid wood door or not.


I'm nearly sure the answer to your first question is yes, you have to have a fire-rated door, BUT your existing door, if it is solid wood and it's thick enough, might actually be code.

You should look up the code in your area, but the IRC allows either solid wood, or foam core doors, that meet thickness requirements (afraid I don't remember what the measurement was though.)


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## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

If it was fire rated, there would be a label on the hinge side of the door. 

You might call the local whoever is the building inspector, and ask their opinion.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Attached are a few more photos. It looks like a solid door. It also has three hinges. When I called the box store, they said if an older door is replaced (which may not require a fire door at the time) when the new door is installed, a fire rated door needs to be installed, as well as the requirements for a fire rated door installation. A solid door runs about $200 or so. A fire rated door would run about $400. Installation for a fire door would run about $500+. Having a new door would be a bit costly. If I install it myself, I don't know if I am regulated by such needs, but it probably depends on the code in the area as mentioned (I'll check their website). If I sell the house, do I need to disclose that I didn't not install the door as per fire rated requirements? Just like a patio cover, some are not to code, though homes are sold as is. 

I could always just keep the existing door and paint it. But thought it would be nice to change the style and install it myself to save money. Ten doors might be a bit much to do a self install, but one door doesn't seem so bad.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I am not sure a solid door is not fire rated, I would do a little more research on that.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

While you are checking, your location may require self closing hinges as well, or some sort of closing mechanism.


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## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

A fire rated door will have a metal tag, go to a mall, a school, hospital, or nursing home. Open a hall door and look for the metal tag on the hinge side of the door. 

Also, do not paint over any decals or metal tags. You just violated the listing of the door

Here is some info on fire doors. 
https://structuretech1.com/houses-dont-have-firewalls/

This is the time to ask your friendly building inspector questions. Don't wear a shirt that says Bob"s Cheap Contracting.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Here is an inexpensive pre-hung 20 minute fire-door from Jeld-Wen. It is 36x80. And it goes for $256 in my area. It is a basic 6 panel door as you can see. A non fire rated door is $189. _Isn't the safety of your family worth $70?_











Here is a link to the door.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

ktownskier said:


> Here is an inexpensive pre-hung 20 minute fire-door from Jeld-Wen. It is 36x80. And it goes for $256 in my area. It is a basic 6 panel door as you can see. A non fire rated door is $189. _Isn't the safety of your family worth $70?_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is nice, but installing it is the issue. That might run about $500, so assume there is something different about installing fire doors which may be complex. I'll check around locally to see if it is ok for a DIY or is there some future issue when I sell the home.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Home Depot sells a 20 minute fire rated solid wood door. 
To meet fire separation requirements, the door must be one of three types of doors: a solid wood door not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, a solid or honeycomb core steel doors not less than 1-3/8 inches thick, or a 20-minute fire-rated door, with a self-closing device. Another thing to note, is that a 1-3/4″ thick solid wood raised panel door would likely not comply because the minimum thickness at the recesses would likely be less than 1-3/8.”
https://www.buellinspections.com/myths-fire-rated-walls-doors-house-garage/


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I think the weather stripping is also different. Better heat rating or tighter against garage gases. You can knock on the door and tell if it is solid or hollow. Practice at the homedepot.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Mystriss said:


> If you pull out the handle you should be able to figure out if it's a solid wood door or not.


:confused1:

Don't many (all?) hollow-core doors have solid chunks in the hinge and handle areas?


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## Spyder (Jan 11, 2019)

huesmann said:


> :confused1:
> 
> Don't many (all?) hollow-core doors have solid chunks in the hinge and handle areas?


I haven't taken apart a hollow core door recently, but I agree with you, there needs to be something solid to install the lockset on.

as far as I understand, installing a fire door is really no different than installing a normal exterior door. it might be slightly heavier but should be straightforward.

I bought one for between my unfinished basement and finished basement. considering the distance from the boiler, I really don't think its needed, but if i ever get this inspected I have it, it was approx $100 more than the special order solid core doors i was ordering. They're all in a pile in my basement waiting for install...


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Mystriss said:


> If you pull out the handle you should be able to figure out if it's a solid wood door or not.
> 
> 
> I'm nearly sure the answer to your first question is yes, you have to have a fire-rated door, BUT your existing door, if it is solid wood and it's thick enough, might actually be code.
> ...


The door has three hinges which give some indication it is solid, and the door swings open a bit heavy. I installed solid doors in my house and they feel about the same. A big difference compared to a hollow door.

The house was built in 1984 and the requirements back then was probably just a solid door. There is no label on the hinge side of the door. 

I am thinking of buying a fire rated door and just install it as per the instructions. I think there is some foam that goes around the frame area and possibly some weather stripping.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

greentrees said:


> The door has three hinges which give some indication it is solid, and the door swings open a bit heavy. I installed solid doors in my house and they feel about the same. A big difference compared to a hollow door.
> 
> The house was built in 1984 and the requirements back then was probably just a solid door. There is no label on the hinge side of the door.
> 
> I am thinking of buying a fire rated door and just install it as per the instructions. I think there is some foam that goes around the frame area and possibly some weather stripping.


The doors we get are just exterior metal clad doors, pre hung. So they have a threshold and weather stripping for the auto off gases and they have what ever the rating is for residential. They are treated like any other exterior door. But they are self closing.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

Every hollow core door that was heavy enough to be mistaken for a solid, had an MDF type wood at the latch. My method obviously wouldn't work if they make a hollow core with solid wood at the latch. I've never seen it, but I'm no expert.

My garage door is a 6 panel oak door, same as a few other doors in the house. I suspect they were misorder's for a custom job the previous owner was doing though because they're odd sizes. The front door is solid pine and the rest of the doors in the house are all cheap hollow's (MDF frame with wood veneer panels.)


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Neal, 
The door I posted had a 20 minute fire rating IN ADDITION TO a self closing hinge. Thus they meet the requirements that Charles Buell stated for a fire separation door. 

I would use fire rated caulk and foam to fill in the gaps and to create an air tight seal around the door. 

The door is NOT a fire safety door by any means. It is there just to provide an extra layer of protection, "Just In Case". 

It is meant to be installed by the average DIY'er with average skills. The installation directions does point out the differences that the fire door install requires. 

Ktown


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## Profkanz (Oct 16, 2018)

greentrees said:


> Attached are a few more photos. It looks like a solid door. It also has three hinges. When I called the box store, they said if an older door is replaced (which may not require a fire door at the time) when the new door is installed, a fire rated door needs to be installed, as well as the requirements for a fire rated door installation. A solid door runs about $200 or so. A fire rated door would run about $400. Installation for a fire door would run about $500+. Having a new door would be a bit costly. If I install it myself, I don't know if I am regulated by such needs, but it probably depends on the code in the area as mentioned (I'll check their website). If I sell the house, do I need to disclose that I didn't not install the door as per fire rated requirements? Just like a patio cover, some are not to code, though homes are sold as is.
> 
> I could always just keep the existing door and paint it. But thought it would be nice to change the style and install it myself to save money. Ten doors might be a bit much to do a self install, but one door doesn't seem so bad.


 The areas of any door where the locks are located is usually solid even if it's a hollow core door. You can tap lightly with a hammer and the sound will be very different in hollow vs solid doors.


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## FatBear (Jan 14, 2009)

greentrees said:


> I could always just keep the existing door and paint it. But thought it would be nice to change the style and install it myself to save money.


Your door was likely a "fire door" when it was installed. I built a house in 1980 and a steel or solid core fire door was required, but it was no different than a steel or solid core door for an entry door. It is grandfathered, so to change it you will have to replace it with one that some cubicle rat has approved, but you can doll it up and paint it without "upgrading" it.

So you could go down to the moulding company (not the big box store) and find a nice decorative moulding for flat surfaces, then with a miter box, finish nails or nailer, and painter's caulk you'll be ready to paint a much nicer door.

Or you could find picture frame or wainscot mouldings and order some raised panels online and really make it fancy.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

FatBear said:


> Your door was likely a "fire door" when it was installed. I built a house in 1980 and a steel or solid core fire door was required, but it was no different than a steel or solid core door for an entry door. It is grandfathered, so to change it you will have to replace it with one that some cubicle rat has approved, but you can doll it up and paint it without "upgrading" it.
> 
> So you could go down to the moulding company (not the big box store) and find a nice decorative moulding for flat surfaces, then with a miter box, finish nails or nailer, and painter's caulk you'll be ready to paint a much nicer door.
> 
> Or you could find picture frame or wainscot mouldings and order some raised panels online and really make it fancy.


I saw how moulding could update the look of a door. The only problem is that the new doors I have on the bedroom doors and basement door is concave in (two panels), so it will not be possible to match very well.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

If you have an attached garage then a fire door is not going to accomplish anything. I use insulated steel doors which do meet fire code and would slow down a thief (hopefully). 

Most home fires start as a result of someone smoking and falling asleep or a kitchen fire or faulty wiring. 

Real question is where are your fire extinguishers located and are they current and do they provide protection for the type of first likely to be encountered in different parts of your house.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

ktownskier said:


> Here is an inexpensive pre-hung 20 minute fire-door from Jeld-Wen. It is 36x80. And it goes for $256 in my area. It is a basic 6 panel door as you can see. A non fire rated door is $189. _Isn't the safety of your family worth $70?_
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Does the fire door from Jeld Wen or any other 20 minute fire door come with a threshold? I couldn't tell from the website. Also is a sill needed when installing a door? It seem just fire foam is needed around the door and a standard solid door installation for the Jeld Wen door.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

If a fire starts in my garage I want a smoke detector and alarm and that is where the $70 should go. 



Far more home burglaries than garage fires and a fire door provides poor security compared to a steel door. It is really a con to have a "fire door" such as this. Any door is going to block the fire in a room for 20 minutes. The problem is when someone opens the door and lets fresh air out to feed the fire which results in a flashback.


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