# Need to replace receptacle box but drywall hole is too big



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

I started to change this receptacle in downstairs room (not used much) and noticed that the box itself was not nailed to stud. I removed the box, inserted an "old work" box (with plastic tabs that rotate and hold box in) but saw that the hole was too big.
The bottom of the box is actually sitting just inside the hole and the top is barely sitting on drywall.

Is there an easy fix to this? Maybe some sort of "sleeve" or insert that will help fix this box in place? Or maybe a slightly larger box??

Thanks!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

There is receptacle anchors made to put boxes in where there is no stud to nail to.

looks like a double L , with an extra tab sticking down to hold the box in place.

It is flat ,thin, and inserts beside the box, with the upper part sticking up inside the wall, then the lower tab, drops down on the bottom part, inside the wall, then you fold over the two = bars inside the box, one for each side of the box, then install the outlet as normal. 

Use an over sized cover plate, to hide the hole. 

AND DONE.

ED


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Yep! Get a remodel receptacle box and you're good to go. :thumbsup:


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## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

Is this what you mean? This will keep the box from coming out but what keeps it from going in too far?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Ida Know strikes again.:laughing::laughing:


ED


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## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

de-nagorg said:


> Ida Know strikes again.:laughing::laughing:
> 
> ED


Yup. I tried to load this picture over the air but it obviously didn't load. It's here now.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

The switch box supports (battle ships) will not work. The box will fall into the hole.

Cut 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood about 3" by 1". Place behind the drywall above and below the hole spaced for the box you are using. Secure with 2 drywall screws in each piece. Install the box with screws thru the box ears and enough plastic box spacers to hold the front of the box flush with the front of the wall. Caulk the gap around the box and use Spackle or drywall mud to cover the screws. I have also heard you can use construction adhesive to hold the plywood strips in place.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

That is the item that I spoke of. 

To keep your box from getting pushed into the hole, use a short piece of 2X ripped down to whatever is needed to fill the space between the box and the opposite wall. 

Then use a bead of construction adhesive to glue the 2X to the wall behind the box. Through the existing hole. 

let it set ( takes 10 minutes or less). Then use the box anchors and wire it as normally done. 


ED


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

for those recommending madison straps:

that is a remodel box. It has wings on it; notice the screws you can see on the face of the box. You do not need madison straps with an old work box like that.

The problem is the ears on the top and bottom do not extend beyond the hole./ A madison strap would not do anything to prevent the box from falling into the hole

there is a little gizmo that slides behind the box ears. Kind of a C shaped piece of sheet metal. I cannot find a picture of them and I really don't care for them anyway but they do serve a purpose. 

personally I would consider moving that recep one way or the other 6 or more inches and simply patching the hole that is there (if the wire is long enough to allow it). 


I found one after all:










and another one with slight variations:










aw heck, here is the page from Grainger that shows it:

http://http://www.grainger.com/product/CADDY-Wiring-Device-Retainer-2KXD1?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2KXD1_AS01?$smthumb$


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Just pull the box, patch the hole, let the mud dry and then sand. Then you can cut a proper hole. In reality, the hole does not look like there is no problems with the top and bottom. As for the sides, a small knife and some Spackle, will fix it.


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## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

nap said:


> aw heck, here is the page from Grainger that shows it:
> 
> http://http://www.grainger.com/prod...m/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/2KXD1_AS01?$smthumb$


That's what I was hoping for! Your link will work if you edit out the extra "http://" at the beginning. Or click here Grainger Wiring Device Retainer
$1.41 plus tax at your local Grainger. Fastest and cheapest solution, imo.


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## MrElectricianTV (Nov 13, 2014)

jkk said:


> I started to change this receptacle in downstairs room (not used much) and noticed that the box itself was not nailed to stud. I removed the box, inserted an "old work" box (with plastic tabs that rotate and hold box in) but saw that the hole was too big.
> The bottom of the box is actually sitting just inside the hole and the top is barely sitting on drywall.
> 
> Is there an easy fix to this? Maybe some sort of "sleeve" or insert that will help fix this box in place? Or maybe a slightly larger box??
> ...


If there is a stud next to the box, shoot a number 8 sheet metal screw through the side of the box into the stud using an impact driver or drill.

As others have mentioned, gluing wood strips inside the wall will work. I have used joint compound as the glue since it has adhesive properties added. In another thread someone mentioned using paint stirring sticks. I never tried them, but the dimensions are about right.

Madison Bars are made for use with metal switch and receptacle boxes. The plastic old work boxes have their own wings.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

MrElectricianTV said:


> If there is a stud next to the box, shoot a number 8 sheet metal screw through the side of the box into the stud using an impact driver or drill.
> 
> As others have mentioned, gluing wood strips inside the wall will work. I have used joint compound as the glue since it has adhesive properties added. In another thread someone mentioned using paint stirring sticks. I never tried them, but the dimensions are about right.
> 
> Madison Bars are made for use with metal switch and receptacle boxes. The plastic old work boxes have their own wings.


Typically that type box is not located next to a stud. I always try to position them that way but at times it doesn't work out.

I find the problem using paint paddles is they split easily when you drive a screw. That's why I use plywood.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

One of these would work too and are sold at Home depot or Lowes. :thumbsup:

http://www.homedepot.com/c/installing_remodeling_boxes_HT_PG_EL


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Sir MixAlot said:


> One of these would work too and are sold at Home depot or Lowes. :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/c/installing_remodeling_boxes_HT_PG_EL


That is what he has but the hole is oversize so that it falls back into the wall.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Sir MixAlot said:


> One of these would work too and are sold at Home depot or Lowes. :thumbsup:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/c/installing_remodeling_boxes_HT_PG_EL


that appears to be exactly what he already has in place. the hole in the wall it too big for the face of the box and it appears to be able to slip into the hole.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

rjniles said:


> That is what he has but the hole is oversize so that it falls back into the wall.





nap said:


> that appears to be exactly what he already has in place. the hole in the wall it too big for the face of the box and it appears to be able to slip into the hole.


My bad. Wheres my coffee. :laughing:


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

rjniles, I have used a Hot Glue gun to attach two paddles together, then placing them inside the hole. Then use hot glue to attach the drywall patch to the paddles.

I think that the easy route for the OP to go with. Is a California patch. Then just cut the proper sized hole after the mud has been allowed to dry and has been sanded.


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## leungw (Apr 20, 2009)

This box might work. You might actually have to enlarge the existing hole for this to fit.

http://www.amazon.com/Arlington-DVFR1W-1-Recessed-Electrical-Mounting/dp/B002W6ZOR4/


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