# Refinishing Oak Floors



## management (May 29, 2011)

Hi

I need help understanding my progress. 

I have went at these floors with a 24 grit paper and about to go over them with 80 grit. I'd like to understand if this is what it is suppose to look like after this step or do I have to keep going with the 24 grit. 

I don't know what they are suppose to look like after 24 grit. 

Thanks. Willing to take recommendations.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What have you been trying to use to sand those floors? There not even close to being right.
And it's cheaper, faster and will come out better if you just hire a pro to come in with the right equipment to do this.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

24 grit??? *HOLY SCHIT* !


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I hope you aren't using that little orbiting hand sander I see laying there.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

joecaption said:


> What have you been trying to use to sand those floors? There not even close to being right.
> And it's cheaper, faster and will come out better if you just hire a pro to come in with the right equipment to do this.


I was going to use a drum sander but the tool rental individual stated that one can damage a floor if they have never used one before. Therefore, I used a random orbit sander that had 4 6" pads at the bottom. Started with 24 grit as I read online and they stated at the tool rental. 

What is not right about it? Can you please help by explaining? Thanks. 

Should I just go get a drum sander?


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## management (May 29, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> 24 grit??? HOLY SCHIT !


Is 24 grit not good enough?


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## management (May 29, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> I hope you aren't using that little orbiting hand sander I see laying there.


No I'm not using that. I'm using a huge and mighty heavy random orbit sander with 4 6" pads underneath.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

There is such a night and day difference to the floors though.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

management said:


> No I'm not using that. I'm using a huge and mighty heavy random orbit sander with 4 6" pads underneath.


Despite the guffaws, you're on the right track. You're using the right sander, especially for a novice!

I wouldn't have started with 24-grit paper, but I know that's what some people suggest for that particular kind of sander.

If I were you I'd move immediately to either 60-grit or 80-grit. Keep the sander moving slowly and methodically. Remember that the coarser grit paper is for getting all the crap off the floor.

Then move up to 120-grit or 150-grit, and finish up with no coarser than 180-grit.

Each successive "step" of sanding will smooth up the wood & make it look better. 


If I were you I'd carefully remove the quarter-round on the baseboard. It'll allow you to get closer to the wall.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

Thank you very much for commenting and the explanation. I have 80 grit and will go over them with that then 180 grit next. 

I will remove the bottom molding. Thanks!!

Will post pictures afterward.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Is 24 grit not good enough?


Seems excessive to me to open with 24 grit. I would think 50 or 60 would be safer. I also think you shouldn't jump from 80 to 180 without throwing in a little 100 in between.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

management said:


> Thank you very much for commenting and the explanation. I have 80 grit and will go over them with that then 180 grit next.
> 
> I will remove the bottom molding. Thanks!!
> 
> Will post pictures afterward.


80 to 180 is kind of a big jump. I'd get some sanding with 120-grit in there.

Remember... Keep the sander moving evenly, using wide strokes. Then go back and sand it "the other way," for the most even sanding you can get. 

The bad thing about the 4-disc RO Sander is that it's not as aggressive as a drum sander. The good thing about it is that it's not as aggressive as the drum sander - which is another way of saying it's MUCH more forgiving.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

Bud Cline said:


> Seems excessive to me to open with 24 grit. I would think 50 or 60 would be safer. I also think you shouldn't jump from 80 to 180 without throwing in a little 100 in between.


The 4-disc RO Sander is a different kind of animal. That grade grit on a drum sander would have already decimated his floor. I use nothing but the 4-disc RO Sander because it's so much more forgiving. I have not, however, used anything coarser than 40-grit.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Those damned drum sanders..........

You have to have used one two or three times before in order to know how to use one for the first time.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I did one bedroom for the first time about 9 years ago.....used a drum sander.....came out fine....

Based on my experience....DrHicks is correct....not sure why one needs to hire a professional....yea, they might be faster and do a better job....but this is a DIY site after all....what's the fun of paying someone to do it....

Though I can't imangine doing all that with a hand sander....wow...

I do wood working as a hobby....I have never even used 24 grit paper.....not even 40....80 is the most course I have used.

To the OP....I think you would want to finish up with 220 or higher....

I would wipe the whole floor with stain preconditioner before you apply any stain....it will help show up any scratches....I have a feeling that 24 grit left a few....

One thing I learned....don't rush it....and keep it all clean....especially when you get to the varnish part.....


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

^ The different kind of sander is the key. Drum vss Random Orbital. It's the difference between a hand-held belt sander, and hand-held random orbital sander.

Another thing I really like about the RO Floor Sander (at least the ones I've rented) is that they have a bagging system that leaves virtually no dust behind.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

This RO Floor Sander doesn't pick up any dust at all. It doesn't go airborne just left all on the floor. Only a little dust in the bag. I used my dust vac instead of the bag and same result. 

It does the job though.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

How long does the stain before the poly have to sit before applying the poly?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> How long does the stain before the poly have to sit before applying the poly?


Until it is dry.:yes:


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

management said:


> This RO Floor Sander doesn't pick up any dust at all. It doesn't go airborne just left all on the floor. Only a little dust in the bag. I used my dust vac instead of the bag and same result.
> 
> It does the job though.


You must be using an entirely different kind than the ones I've used. The ones I've used have a vacuum and bag right on the machine.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

DrHicks said:


> You must be using an entirely different kind than the ones I've used. The ones I've used have a vacuum and bag right on the machine.


There is on directly on it but it's sucked. You can take it off and and use a dust vac.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

management said:


> There is on directly on it *but it's sucked.*


That's what it's supposed to do! 


Actually, I don't know what to tell you. On the machines I've used, the vacuum worked great. The sander left virtually NO dust anywhere.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

DrHicks said:


> That's what it's supposed to do!
> 
> 
> Actually, I don't know what to tell you. On the machines I've used, the vacuum worked great. The sander left virtually NO dust anywhere.


Same for me....and it was a rental from HD....

As for the stain...if you use an oil stain and want to cover it with a water based latex clear coat...you need to wait at least a week....

Oil based clear over oil stain? Couple of days....us woodworking guys have the same issue....


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## management (May 29, 2011)

Ok so I got the stain down. The grain really is showing very strong. Any reason why that is? Is it the stain choice?


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

Looks like you used pretty dark stain.


This is an oak floor of a rental house bedroom I refinished a couple years ago. I used what was called "natural" stain. I liked the warm feel it gave the wood.


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## management (May 29, 2011)

DrHicks said:


> Looks like you used pretty dark stain.


Didn't think it would be that dark but yeah. Gonna change the wall color though. It came like that with the house.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

management said:


> Didn't think it would be that dark but yeah. Gonna change the wall color though. It came like that with the house.


Looks like you probably used a "dark oak" stain. Not too much you can do about it now. If it were me, I'd go no glossier than "satin" for the poly. "Semi-gloss" or "gloss" give it a little harsher look, in my opinion.

The right color paint will really make those rooms look nice!


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## DUDE! (May 3, 2008)

Just saying,, on the poly, the strength is in the degree of gloss,, was told to go high gloss first two coats, then use satin for top coat if I wanted to tone down the shine.


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## jcrack_corn (Jun 21, 2008)

did you put a sealer on before the stain?

sanding sealers tend to even out the stain and give you MUCH greater control over the shade (ie, if you put stain on unsealed wood, it will soak it up pretty instantly, if it has a sealer on it you have time to wipe off excess and coat to color/use multiple coats to get desired shade).


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

management said:


> Ok so I got the stain down. The grain really is showing very strong. Any reason why that is? Is it the stain choice?


That looks like a nice old red oak with winter wood and dark grain. Tends to stain out that way in my experience and I for one love it.

As for how long to let the stain dry, 24 hours at room temperature and 50% humidity will do it, provided you have wiped it down good, but it looks like we're past that marker.

Great job. Lookin' good!


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Personally....I think it looks great.....but you didn't follow my advice about the conditioner did you?

I would rub it down with steel wool if you want to soften up some of the spots.....it will also make for a really smooth surface....

Let me STRESS.....clean it well. If you use a water based sealer and there is any steel wool left....it will turn to rust....

Vacuum....wipe....vacuum again....wipe again....follow up with a tack cloth.....

If you used an oil stain and are going to use a water based varnish....wait about a week....if oil based varnish....you can do it now.

I would also suggest sanding with 400 grit paper after the first coat to knock down any spots....

And....clean well between coats....

Don't rush it....


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## jcrack_corn (Jun 21, 2008)

also, if using oil based finish (thats what i prefer), i usually thin it down 25 percent (3/4 poly, 1/4 mineral spirits)....it then goes on VERY thin, but easily allows the outgasing from the floor and the poly to occur without bubbles. will need more coats but really after the first coat, the rest are really fast.

in general, always thin everything that is oil based except stain, lol.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

jcrack_corn said:


> also, if using oil based finish (thats what i prefer), i usually thin it down 25 percent (3/4 poly, 1/4 mineral spirits)....it then goes on VERY thin, but easily allows the outgasing from the floor and the poly to occur without bubbles. will need more coats but really after the first coat, the rest are really fast.
> 
> in general, always thin everything that is oil based except stain, lol.


That is really good advice.....I had bubbles from the first floor I did....now I know why.....

But to be honest....I did rush it a little....wife was in the hospital trying to hold off delivering our first son and I was trying to get the baby room done.....

Now you know why I say "Don't rush it"....


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I have to agree with those who like it. It looks far better than SOME refinishing jobs I've seen!

DM


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

Looks like it came out good! You are a patient man for doing the entire thing with an orbital sander. I used a drum sander in mine, I think we used 80 then 100 then 180 (or maybe it was 80, 120, 180 I can't remember) and then we hand rubbed it with 250 sponges before we tacked it. Luckily my buddy ran the drum sander as he had done it a few times before.

Anyways... I Had to do the stairs with the orbital sander as well as some of the closets since the drum was too big to fit - took just as long as doing the entire house w/ the drum.


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## Big Stud (Jul 3, 2011)

Looks great to me. I like the way the more porous grain accents the wood in oak. You did a fine job,


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## DUDE! (May 3, 2008)

I did a small bedroom a couple years back,, no rush, I use'ed a hand sander, starting with heavy grit and working up,, put a sealer down, was getting spotty,, when all said and done, it looks like the floor got a case of the spots, pretty sure it has red oak in it, at least it looks that way behind the radiator cover,, no way I'm posting pics of this affair. The only thing I can figure is I'll have to sand it down and then stain it to get rid of the spots, any advise would be apprieciated although I don't intisipate jumping into it for the time being,, maybe this is when I'm suppose to put down carpeting,, and OP,, nice job


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## management (May 29, 2011)

Thanks for all the good comments. I had to rush this due to my brother was only hear in a weekend. The part I rushed as only letting the stain dry for 12 hours. I was told after by some on here and goggling that it will caused bubbles. You can't see them well on the pictures but they are small and there. 

What I'm annoying about is the fact that I can't get the oil-based polyurethane smell to go away. I got three coats on but man it's been a week and the smell isn't any better. 

Any advice?


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## jcrack_corn (Jun 21, 2008)

management said:


> Thanks for all the good comments. I had to rush this due to my brother was only hear in a weekend. The part I rushed as only letting the stain dry for 12 hours. I was told after by some on here and goggling that it will caused bubbles. You can't see them well on the pictures but they are small and there.
> 
> What I'm annoying about is the fact that I can't get the oil-based polyurethane smell to go away. I got three coats on but man it's been a week and the smell isn't any better.
> 
> Any advice?



yeah 12 hours isnt long enough...at least a day or two to get all the voc's out....for the bubbles, as mentioned, thinning the poly helps so that it will re-flow once the gases (and its OWN outgassing) pass through.

poly smell lasts about a week or two with decent ventilation so it should be gone soon...it is definitely a distinctive odor! At least its not as bad as oil paint.


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