# Re-siding a house



## bbg (Mar 17, 2010)

Good morning everyone from Washington State!
Question, I have old LP siding on the front of the house with roofing paper as underlayment. I plan on replacing the LP with Hardiplank and was wondering if I should also replace the roofing paper (tar/felt paper) with Tyvek or equivilent or just put Tyvek or equivilent over the paper?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’ve ripped off close to a 100 houses of LP on the Oregon Coast and you definitely want to replace the paper. By the time you get the siding off the paper will be to ripped up.

NO TYVEK, NO THIS IS THE BEST NEW HOUSEWRAP ON THE MARKET.
30lb FELT, FELT, FELT.

I know we are not suppose to product bash here but Tyvek and the like I’m sure are just fine in dryer climates, it just doesn’t cut it our wet Pacific NW. I don't care what the sales rep. has to say.


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## bbg (Mar 17, 2010)

Thanks for the advice. You were not the first to suggest NOT using house wrap of any kind. Granted we are much further inland from the coastal projects you have done but still wet, damp environment. 30LB felt it is!!!!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

in those types of enviorments a rainscreen detail is a good idea...along with using the felt


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## bbg (Mar 17, 2010)

Okay, what is a rainscreen detail? I live just North East of Tacoma, Wa.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

its adding a small space between the siding and the sheathing,which can help protect the wall and allow solid sidings like fiber cement or wood to dry out from behind...the hardie website shows a rain screen type detail i believe,they may have another name for it tho,in wet climates i would encourage you to look into it


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## Stephen S. (Nov 23, 2009)

Welcome BBG ~ any picture of your house ? I'd love to see the progress of swapping out the sidings please try to document it ?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

A rain screen detail is the way to go but in my 25 years of doing this stuff I’ve “never” seen it done. I’ve tried to sell it a few times but no go. It defiantly adds considerable cost. It also creates other issues that add to the cost such as door jamb extensions, electrical outlets, vents that all have to be moved out to look right. Sometimes windows are an issue. Might not be as bad on new construction if it was all planed out.


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## kelley4180 (Oct 2, 2009)

Agree, photodocing progress appreciated. I'm about 18 months from doing this myself.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Just north of you in British Columbia, the rain screen is code.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

pack out of doors and windows is an issue but no more of an issue than if you were going to install a thick foam underlayment

more of an issue would be adequate roof overhang


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## bbg (Mar 17, 2010)

*Re-siding a house.*

Thanks everybody for "chiming in" on answers, suggestions and comments. I will look in to the Hardiplank website and look at that 'rainscreen' item. 
I have been in my house for 20 years, bought it new and the front of the house is LP lap siding and the other three sides are the T-1011 siding. And yes, there are areas of the T-1011 where there is de-lamination/blistering happening.
I will be more than happy to share progress pictures with you all. I plan on doing the front some time this summer. What's nice about my "humble little abode" is I can do the siding in phases and complete portions of it in a day (minus the painting).
Another question; what is anybodies recommendation on putting hardipllank over T-1011? Any wrap underneath the Hardiplank?
Again everybody, thanks for the feedback!!!!:thumbup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Welcome to the forum! I'm in Tacoma. 

Rain screen: http://www.greenhomebuilding.com/pdf/RainScreen.pdf

http://www.nchh.org/Portals/0/Contents/Article0440.pdf

http://www.coastalcontractor.net/article/135.html

The trouble with house wraps: http://www.dickseibert.com/martin.pdf

Make sure it's real builder's paper: http://www.fortifiber.com/pdf/fortifacts/fortifacts_ask_vs_felt.pdf

Tar paper over T1-11 is fine as it only has a perm rating of 6- 30 after it gets wet. http://www.hornerflooring.com/techguide/maintenance/watervapor.pdf

It is a vapor retarder, not barrier, two layers would not be a problem.

Be safe, Gary


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## bbg (Mar 17, 2010)

Thanks for the great links Gary. I am tentatively planning on doing one section of siding above the garage roof where two bedrooms reside. I plan on stripping the siding off, check the roofing paper, and replace the two windows. Thanks to you, it looks like I have some good, easy steps on how to properly install wrap as well as around windows.:thumbsup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Glad we could help, that's why we are here! Always a nice surprise to answer someone so close, too. 

Be safe, Gary


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## Exterior Finish (Sep 16, 2009)

I have been in the siding business for 24 yrs, and I wouldn't recommend installing anything over an existing exterior, especially one that is delaminating. The biggest issue with this is that your existing siding might be hiding other issues that have been generated over the yrs, ie: rot below windows due to moisture infiltration. If the LP siding is coming apart, it won't stop just because you can't see it anymore!
In Canada, all coastal regions require a rain screen now, and for good reason. Fiber cement and other composite products are completely unsealed on the back side, so any water(or vapor) that either infiltrates or escapes from the inside will shorten the lifespan of the new product. If you paint the back, you just voided the warranty on the board. 
Also, all new home warranty insurers in BC require the use of building paper(felt) for these products unless you have a rainscreen.


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