# Garage doors and openers: repair or replace?



## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

My house was built in the early 1990s. There are two wood 8x7 side-by-side garage doors with Craftsman 1/2 HP chain drive openers. The wood is getting a little ratty on the bottom of the doors, probably from water. Also, one of the openers is a little quirky and the other one is starting to get that way. One of the doors was "knocked" and it is slightly out of alignment (long story). I had a local garage door repair company come out last year to check out the one door. They wanted to charge me $400-500+ to rebuild the door and opener. I went to Lowes yesterday to price out garage doors and openers. I priced out mid range stuff at just over $2,000. I may be better off going to a local garage door company to get it done. Anyway, if I get both doors and openers rebuilt, we are talking $800-1000+ and atleast double to have the stuff replaced. Insulated doors would qualify for the Energy Tax Credit, so that would reduce my bottom line a little bit. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## YesMaam27577 (Jan 16, 2010)

The following opinion is worth at least as much as you'll be paying for it.....

IMO, the openers should be replaced, but do it one at a time if money is an issue. Replace the bad one now, and the other one when it goes bad.

As for the doors, for me it would depend on what "rebuilding" a garage door means. If it means replacing rotted material with rot-proof material, then I'd go for it. If you're just replacing rotted wood with more wood that will rot, forget it.


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

I have found that rain and snow over time will rot out the bottom of wood doors, so I like to get rid of them if I have the opprotunity. I would not put any money into repairing the doors. While replacing the doors do the operators at the same time and be done with garage door issues for a long.

As for DIY installation - I have found I can usually get a garage door company to do a complete deal including installation, including hauling away the old doors, that makes it not worth your while to DIY.


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

I can't seem to find the estimate, but from what I remember, the rebuilding of the doors consists of new hardware (rollers, hinges, etc), re-aligning everything and also new springs and cables. NOT new doors.

No question that the openers to be replaced, or atleast one of them. If I replace both doors, I might as well replace both openers. 

Forget replacing the wood doors with new wood doors. I was going to get a traditional insulated steel door (triple layer: steel+insulation+steel). I want something low maintenance.

Money is not an issue, but I wanted to look at repairing everything first. The doors I priced out at Lowes are $789 each with installation. I would get a 30% tax credit on the doors and not the installation costs. In the long run, I am probably better off replacing the doors and openers. I plan on calling a garage door company that was recommended to me and compare the price to Lowes.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Call a couple of local garage door companies and get estimates from each. Forget rebuilding the old wood doors. You're just prolonging the agony. I wouldn't recommend the sears openers. Years ago they weren't bad. Nowadays they are specced so cheaply. Even though Liftmaster makes the openers for sears, they are not a liftmaster. The LM's that are only available through garage door companies are different than the units you get at the big box stores. The arms that the trolley rides on are one piece, not three or four. Not sure where you are located, but Clopay is a national door company. They sell a cheaper door through the box stores, don't get it. Most local garage door companies should be able to supply you with a better quality door at a cheaper price. 
Mike Hawkins


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

Thanks for the advice Mike. I am better off using a local garage door company because if there are ever problems after installation, I can call them directly and not the box store or installer. Lowes carries ReliaBilt doors and Chamberlain openers. At my old house, I had a local garage door company replace springs on the garage. I'll start with them first and report back.


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

I contacted three local garage door companies. Two are in the mid $2,000 range and one is in the low $2,000 range for installation of 2 doors and 2 openers. They all use a mid-price ranged 3-layer steel construction door with a fairly high R value and 1/2 HP openers. 

-Company A uses Raynor doors and Raynor belt drive openers-quoted $2,521 total 
-Company B uses Amarr doors and LiftMaster chain drive openers (upgrade to belt drive opener, add $15 each)-$2,070 
-Company C uses Advantage doors and LiftMaster belt drive openers (owner claims to use upgraded hardware)-$2,648 

Company B uses a standard 1 3/8" thick door. The guy said that the other probably use a 2" thick door. I did not think to ask the other two companies what thickness door they use. The guy just came out and said they use an industry standard 1 3/8" thick door. Belt drive or chain drive openers? Anything else that I should be looking out for?


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## Giles (Jan 25, 2010)

walds11 said:


> I contacted three local garage door companies. Two are in the mid $2,000 range and one is in the low $2,000 range for installation of 2 doors and 2 openers. They all use a mid-price ranged 3-layer steel construction door with a fairly high R value and 1/2 HP openers.
> 
> -Company A uses Raynor doors and Raynor belt drive openers-quoted $2,521 total
> -Company B uses Amarr doors and LiftMaster chain drive openers (upgrade to belt drive opener, add $15 each)-$2,070
> ...


If you are getting doors with windows, see if the glass is insulated. They add nearly $200.00 per door in my area!


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

These prices are doors without windows. That's what I want. 

So, which deal looks good? I am leaning towards Company B, mainly because it's the cheapest and comparable to the others, except their price includes a chain drive opener. Going with a belt drive opener only adds $15 per opener. The chain drive is more heavy-duty, but noisier. The garages are above my master bedroom, but there is no garage door usage when people are sleeping, so noise is not an issue. 



Giles said:


> If you are getting doors with windows, see if the glass is insulated. They add nearly $200.00 per door in my area!


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Walds,
In my area, amarr, wayne dalton, clopay and anderson (local co.) are the doors readily available. I usually hang the anderson doors, sometimes clopay. I have hung a lot of genie promax operators (chain drives). I have started to hang liftmasters since last year and really like their model 3850, which is their top model, belt drive, 3/4hp. 
I get 370.00 for each opener installed, 8 x 7, 1 3/8" steel on steel door without windows are 550.00. So that would be 1840.00 for a job like yours. I am probably a bit less than a bigger company would be. The 1 3/8" doors are fine. The 2" doors that have a steel outside and inside are a bit more money, but also a lot heavier. I have hung a bunch of these and now feel it is a bit overkill. Now, there is another 2" door that is very popular here. It is steel outside, insulated, with the inside being the back side of the insulation covered with a vinyl pebble textured surface. These doors weigh about the same as an 1 3/8" steel on steel door.
Mike Hawkins


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

Thanks again Mike. I was thinking of just replacing the doors now and openers in the future, but I am probably better off getting everything done at once. Company B charges $335 per chain drive opener installed (add $15 per opener for belt drive) and $700 per 8 x 7, 1 3/8" steel on steel door without windows, total for job = $2,070. I have to dig in to see why the others are $400-500+ higher. All the companies I contacted are small to medium sized, thus probably higher overhead than you.

Should I go with chain or belt drive openers?

I used company B to fix a garage at my old house, so I know a little about them.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

The last 2 openers I've had (at 2 different houses) over the last 5 years have been belt drive and I couldn't be happier with them. I recently hung an identical opener to the one in my last house, but with a chain, in my father's garage - it's noticibly louder.

When I moved into this house, the first weekend I tore out the existing chain drive opener (didn't come with remotes anyway) and replaced it with a new belt-drive model. You can really tell the difference, especially upstairs. If you have living space above your garage, I'd definitely pay the extra $15 each for the belt drive.

Beyond a little noise when the door is in operation, there's little difference. You don't need to oil the chain, but how often do most people do that anyway?


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

The guy at Company C suggested chain drive openers because they are more durable, will last longer and require less maintenance. My master bedroom is above the garage, but there is not much usage early morning or late at night when someone is sleeping. If the belt drive openers are just as good as chain drive openers, then I supposed I can't go wrong with belt drive for the extra $15.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Walds,
In the liftmaster line, and genie's promax's also, the opener head is the same unit for the belt or chain drive. The only difference is the drive gear vs. drive pulley for the belt. Neither really requires much maintenance. I took a genie promax out of my main garage attached to the house and replaced it with a LM3585 Elite series belt drive. I can't hear the unit from inside the house anymore. And the genie promax chain is a fairly quiet unit. The LM comes with a really cool wall station. It has a motion sensor built in so when you walk into the garage, it turns the light on. It also displays the time and temperature. 
You can go to Lm's website and check out the different units they offer. 
Mike Hawkins


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

-Company A quoted me $440 for a Raynor Aviator 1/2 HP belt drive opener. They also want to charge me $75 for a keypad. 
-Company B quoted me $335 for the LM3265 chain drive and $350 for the LM3280 belt drive. They will throw in a keypad.

These are mid range openers, which is good enough for me. As long as belt drives don't need any more maintenance than chain drives, I'll go for belt drive.

Appointments are already set this week for both companys to come to the house. I will report back. I hope to make a decision soon.


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

Wow, what a huge difference between what I was quoted on the phone and what the guy from Company A quoted me this morning at the house. Same price for the openers, $440 each for 1/2 HP belt drive openers plus $75 for 1 keypad. Here is what I was quoted on doors...

2 Raynor Centura, foam injected, R18, 24/24 gauge steel, 2" thick doors: $2,136
2 Raynor Relante, foam injected, R-13, 24/24 gauge steel, 1 3/8 thick doors: $1,896
2 CHI 2216, foam injected, R-14, 26/27 gauge steel, 2" thick doors: $1,646
2 CHI 2285, placed in foam, R-8 26/27 gauge steel, 2" thick doors: $1,540

The prices include: take down old door, track, springs, hardware and haul away. Installation of new doors, tracks, springs, hardware and openers. The lady quoted me $1,566 for 2 8x7 middle of the road Raynor steel, insulation, steel R-15 doors yesterday. Forget about Company A. They seemed way over-priced. I have an appointment with Company B tomorrow evening. They do Amarr doors and LiftMaster openers.


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## Shamus (Apr 27, 2008)

Just my 2¢ here.....

On a single wide door you don't need a 1/2 HP opener. 1/4 HP is fine especially if it's a new door. Either way, a DIY 1/2 HP is $135 at Lowes. Chain drive Vs belt... Unless you have bedrooms over the garage it does not matter. Chains tend to be louder. They both have the same durability.

For what it takes to DIY a new door I'd keep shopping for a sale. Either that or have 2 doors installed and then do the openers yourself.


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

Company B came out this evening. Same prices as I was quoted over the phone.

2 Ammar Stratford 3000, R-6.5, polystyrene insulation, 27/27 gauge steel, 1 3/8" thick doors $700 each
2 Ammar Heritage 3000, R-9, polystyrene insulation, 24/27 gauge steel, 2" thick doors $775 each

2 LiftMaster 3820 1/2 HP belt drive openers $350 each.

That's more in the price range, low $2000s. Is it worth the extra $75 per door for the Ammar Heritage 3000?


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

Any more feedback?

I am leaning towards Company B...2 Ammar Heritage 3000, R-9, polystyrene insulation, 24/27 gauge steel, 2" thick doors $775 each and 2 LiftMaster 3820 1/2 HP belt drive openers $350 each. These doors seek like a nice, lower to middle range door. Maybe I'll tell the guy that I am ready to pull the trigger and see if he will knock something off the price.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Sounds good Adam,
Let us know how you make out.
Mike Hawkins


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## jflag (Oct 6, 2008)

*Fix it*

The gear for your opener is less than $10 shipped on fleabay, if your handy its an easy swap out. I am guessing the wooden doors maybe slightly out of alignment and or waterlogged and overly heavy which causes the gear to strip out. I have older wooden doors and have replaced 2 gears in the last 18 years. If you have witnessed grinding and slipping then its my bet the gear is only thing wrong with the unit.:thumbsup:


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

I am definitely going to replace the doors. New doors will look sweet, plus I will have insulated doors. I've considered having the openers repaired, but when I factor in the price of the openers with the doors plus the rebate for the doors, it's not a bad deal overall. Does that make sense


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## walds11 (Nov 28, 2009)

Doors and openers installed today. It took 2 guys about 3 hours to do everything. I went with the goods that I stated in post #19. Wow, what a world of a difference! Nice looking doors and super smooth operating openers. Thanks everyone for the great feedback.


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