# Help!!!! New roof leaking!!!



## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Ok, here is EXACTLY what I did. I put on a new addition, and have just finished the roof. I put in 3 vents, so the heat from the attic area could vent out easily. I used 1/2" plywood for my decking and used felt, overlapping as I went towards the top. The very top seam, where the two peices of plywood meet is now leaking. I have flashed everything correctly, or at least I thought I did, but now do I need to remove the shingles by the top where the seam is and flash it, just to ensure it doesn't leak anymore? I really think it is leaking around the vents, but I have caulked the crap out of it with black tubed tar. 

Attached is the inside of the rafters, which shows the seam all the way across the top edge of the roof, which is exactly where it is leaking. Is it possible that the leak could be coming from between the flashing and the wall of the house, because there is a small gap where the vinyl siding will cover, but currently is not, because I haven't put the siding on. Basically, I have flashing from where the roof meets the house, and is flashed and caulked very liberally where it meets the shingles, plus all the nail holes as well. Where it is actually attached to the side of the house is where it isn't flush and is definitely a gap there. 

Any suggestions? Hopefully I didn't talk in circles. Let me know if more photos are needed.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

With the right slope you do not need caulk around the vents
Pics of the top of the roof ?


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Here is a close up of where the seam is that is leaking. I just found out that it IS in fact leaking around the vent now.

The pitch is the minimum 2/12 pitch for shingles. Let me go outside real quick and snap a few more pics of the roof. It is currently raining, but I'll go take some. Stand by...

Actually, it is raining too hard and lightning right now. Only really worried about the camera at this point. So, it will have to wait until later. Sucks!!


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Ok, I went out there on the roof, raining and lightning too, and this is what I got. the first pic you will see the flashing up against the wall, just as I had explained, the top part, which will be covered with the siding, is not all the way against the wall, some of it is, but some of it isn't. The bottom part of the flashing is nailed directly to the top of the shingles with tar over each nailhole. For asthetic reasons, I simply put shingle pieces on top of the flashing so the bright silver isn't showing. you can see the tar line at the bottom of the flashing where it meets the roof. The other pic you can see where I put the vent in and caulked all the way around it.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

If you need bigger pics, I'll send them. Just let me know.

I'm REALLY thinking that the gap between the wall and the flashing is what the problem is. I have sealed every other place I can think of, to include around the entire area where the vents are, as you can see. I think I will try to reflash that top area, but instead of ripping it all out, what is the best way to get that flashing to adhere to the wood siding? I have tried to nail every 16" to where it will meet a stud, but the freaking outside wall on the house isn't straight, so the flashing didn't lay against the wall perfectly. Should I get some other type of flashing and flash over the top of it, then retar the seems, or should I just try to adhere it to the wall a little better? Any suggestions at this point will be very appreciated.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

you have to get the wall underlayment over the endwall flashing so water dosn't get behind it


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Half of the vent is supposed to be on top of the shingles, not under them.
The wall flashing go on top of the roof, not under the shingles. 
All the caulk needs to be removed. Caulks main purpose is to redirect water under the shingles. As you can see, it's doing it's job.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

The flashing is on top of the shingles. It is nailed directly on top of the last layer. For asthetic reasons, I glued the colored pieces to the flashing so you wouldn't see the shiny metal. So, basically I need to fix the flashing where it meets the house as well as the roof vents right? I have the bottom part of the vents exposed, there the other parts are under the shingles. I thought that was how it was supposed to be done. At least that's what it looks like online.

Tom, when you say the wall underlayment, do you mean the foamboard that is behind the vinyl siding. That is my plan, just didn't get to that before it rained. Shouldn't I put something between the foamboard insulation an the flashing, just in case water does get in between there somehow or do you think that will be good enough. So I need to caulkd the seams of the foamboard before I put that last peice of siding over the flashing.

As far as the vents go, can I just the bottom two edges of the shingles that cover the bottom of the vent flashing, then caulking the edges of the flashing real well? Input the peel and stick window flashing on the vents before I even put the shingles on, just didn't put it on the exposed flashing in the front. 

Believe it or not, your info is very helpful.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

One more quick question, should I have put the vent on first, then felt paper, then shingles, or was it ok to put the vent on top of the tar paper? Please keep in mind, this is the first "real" roof job i have done that included vents in the roof. I have done several sheds, cabanas, and covered decks, so I just want to make sure it is done right. I gotta fix this before I put the insulation and the sheetrock, which will be too late to fix it then.

Thanks again for your help!!


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

The rain is bouncing off the roof because it is falling from the upper roof. Many wierd things happen then. The flashing is leaking and that's why it is coming in at the seem in the sheathing. Get a gutter on the upper roof, and use some I&W on that wall on top of the flashing.

Where is your subfascia? That should be on before you shingle.

The vents on top of the felt is fine. The shingles keep the water out. Too bad you didn't make a steeper pitch.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

MJW,

Good idea about the gutter, I was actually thinking of doing that anyway, especially since it is very accessible now since the other roof is there. As far as the pitch, yeah, in hindsight, maybe I should have went with something a little steeper but didn't want to get too close to the 2nd floor window. As you can see in the pics, I only have about 6" of space between the flashing and the bottom of the window as it is, and Yeah, I realized maybe I should have the subfacia on there prior to the shingles. However, what do you suggest I use now as a facia since the shingles are about 1/2 past the end of the drip edge. 

Thanks!!

Mike

I was thinking of using 1x material, which I think just may be right at the edge of the shingles since I didn't put a fascia board on there at all. Hope I didn't screw myself on this one. I see now why it is important to have your fascia up first.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

No caulk around the vents!

Here are typical pix of vents that leak. The caulk causes the leaks. And, not having the shingles near the top of the hole before placing the vent causes leaks.
Like this power vent. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power Vent Installation.htm And what shingles do go on top get their corners clipped too. 
If you insist on using caulk, when half the shingles are down and you're ready to place the vent, put abead around the hole and seat the vent in it. NOWHERE else.

Somehow, a wrong pic got posted. I think the dog caused that.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

I like 1-1/2" past the fascia.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

The reason why I caulked around the vents is because the vent wasn't laying flat on the roof. Do I need to rip out the vent and start over? So, let me get this right, is this the proper steps in putting in a vent like I have?

1. Felt paper
2. cut the hole
3. Put vent over the hole and nail down
4. Shingle around the vent, even on top
5. leave the bottom flashing showing with no shingles on top

Now, by doing the steps above, in my head I could see it leaking more because it was not sealed very well to the shingles. The main reason I did this is because of teh 2/12 pitch vs something a little steeper. I just didn't want the water to sit on the shingles and then seep its way between the shingle and the vent. Tell me if I am wrong, but in my head I thought I had done it correctly.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Also, not to be a jerk in return, but you stated that if I had done my "research" then I would know that I have used the wrong product. So, I guess every site on the Internet, to include this one, every diy book that I have at home, the local building codes, AND the instructions on the bundled shingles themselves, are all wrong? Really? So, before you start throwing insults, make sure YOUR facts are correct. I do appreciate your help, because I now know what I have to fix, but asking me things like OSB in the dirt or 2x4 over 16' span... Really??

Yeah I pulled a permit


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

psychomti said:


> The reason why I caulked around the vents is because the vent wasn't laying flat on the roof. Do I need to rip out the vent and start over? So, let me get this right, is this the proper steps in putting in a vent like I have?
> 
> 1. Felt paper
> 2. cut the hole
> ...


2/12 is too slight of a pitch for the shingles you used. Dimensional shingles can be used on a 2/12 with I&WS or half lapped 30lb felt underlayment. 3 tabs can go down to 3/12 with the same underlayment. Better buy yourself some buckets. You're gonna need 'em.

You might have done it correctly in your head, but you didn't do it right on the roof. I hate to be critical, but you need to ask these questions before you act. It doesn't look like you've done much of anything right. Unless you back up and re-do some things, you're in for some heartbreak. Good luck.

Remove the vent and all the caulk
Hole is already cut.
Felt is already there.
Run shingles to top of hole, or there-abouts. See the power vent link!
Run a bead of caulk across the bottom and up the two sides of the hole.
Install the vent.
Run the last TWO shingles around the vent. No caulk.

There should be about 3-5" of the vent side flanges showing when finished.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Seeyou,

WOW!! Thanks for the confidence. This is my dimensions on the roof and then YOU tell me what pitch I have. From the house it is 16 feet span, over 16 feet, it drops 3 feet. So, instead of telling me that I haven't done anything right, why don't you step back from the *******ness and try to offer some sort of remedy, which is why I am on here in the first place. If I thought I had done it correctly, I wouldn't have asked the question. Thanks for your opinion, but I'm sure it could be used on some other site, not that one. 

Thanks to everyone else for your help!!


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

There is plenty of online information (including this site) to guide you through every step of your addition.

I see all kinds of mistakes that could have been avoided with a little research.

Why is your OSB in the dirt? 

Flashing goes over the fascia not the rafters.

Where’s the bird blocks?

2x4 rafters spanning 16’, what’s up with that?

I’m almost to the roof.

Everything CU said is what I was thinking.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

After enlarging one of your first pictures, I can see where you'll have more issues along the top edge. That window will let in water around the channels.
Here's a link to help you understand what will happen and how to flash that window ann any other siding you have up there. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window Flashing.htm


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Osb isn't the dirt. It's on a concrete slab and is literally 4-5 inches above the dirt but thanks anyway. Nice to point out about the flashing over the fascia. Did you miss the part when I said that I messed up and didn't put the facia on and was asking for advice on this? Yeah, 2x4 trusses. They are engineered. I didn't just arbitrarily span a single 2x4 over 16'. The trusses are engineered to code. Thanks again for playing. So, again you and CU can go off I to the sunset together. It's obvious that I missed a few things, which is why I'm here.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

psychomti said:


> Seeyou,
> 
> WOW!! Thanks for the confidence. This is my dimensions on the roof and then YOU tell me what pitch I have. From the house it is 16 feet span, over 16 feet, it drops 3 feet. So, instead of telling me that I haven't done anything right, why don't you step back from the *******ness and try to offer some sort of remedy, which is why I am on here in the first place. If I thought I had done it correctly, I wouldn't have asked the question. Thanks for your opinion, but I'm sure it could be used on some other site, not that one.
> 
> Thanks to everyone else for your help!!


Sorry. I'm not trying to be a jerk. You have a 2.25/12 pitch. You have installed a product rated for a minimum of 4/12 considering you've used single lapped felt underlayment. You've not allowed for fascia at the edges, so your overhang will be too short. The only remedy I have for you is to tear it off, get the proper roof material for that slope, and chalk this one up to continuing education. Don't take it out on me because you messed up. I've roofed for 30 years or so and there's no way I know that you're gonna keep that roof leak free for any period of time. If I could give you any other advice, I would. As I said, good luck.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Ok, I respect the fact that you have roofed for 30 years. However, by code the minimum for what I have is 2/12 and you state that I have a little over that. So... By code I'm good. So, I won't be tearing it off and starting over. As far as he fascia, would it be too hard to just lift up he edge and put a fascia board, put new drip rail, then extend the shingles over. By doing this, I mean lift it up and essentially put another starter strip, but obiously not 5 or 6" overhang. I'm trying to fix what I messed up without having to reaccomplish the entire job all over. As far as asthetic reasons, this is on the back of the house and because my yard isn't that big, you can't even see up on the roof anyway. So, correct me if I'm wrong, but if I lift up the shingles, take off the drip edge, put the fascia on, put new drip edge, extend the bottom row without looking rediculous, then fix the vents and the flashing by the house, will all of this work (in theory)?


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

psychomti said:


> Ok, I respect the fact that you have roofed for 30 years. However, *by code the minimum for what I have is 2/12 and you state that I have a little over that. So... By code I'm good.* So, I won't be tearing it off and starting over. As far as he fascia, would it be too hard to just lift up he edge and put a fascia board, put new drip rail, then extend the shingles over. By doing this, I mean lift it up and essentially put another starter strip, but obiously not 5 or 6" overhang. I'm trying to fix what I messed up without having to reaccomplish the entire job all over. As far as asthetic reasons, this is on the back of the house and because my yard isn't that big, you can't even see up on the roof anyway. So, correct me if I'm wrong, *but if I lift up the shingles, take off the drip edge, put the fascia on, put new drip edge, extend the bottom row without looking rediculous, then fix the vents and the flashing by the house, will all of this work (in theory)*?


That 2/12 is for dimensional shingles with special underlayment, not 3 tabs on felt as you have. 

The perimeter issue is correctable with the method you describe if you don't care how it looks. 

The slope/wrong shingle/wrong underlayment issue is not correctable with out tearing it off and starting again. 

What brand of shingle did you use? I'll get the install manual for you.

Just curious - Did you pull a permit on this job?


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## DUDE! (May 3, 2008)

I expect Dave to stop by soon, we are not here to tell someone they messed up, We are here to help each other out, keeping in mind that although most like doing the work themselves, I figure money has alot to do with us doing the job versus a contractor. That being said, I hope someone can help out here with this roof problem. I refuse to believe that it can only be corrected by a tear off and install. Let's put our heads together, Big Smile Now, and get this done. :thumbup:


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

DUDE! said:


> I expect Dave to stop by soon, we are not here to tell someone they messed up, We are here to help each other out, keeping in mind that although most like doing the work themselves, I figure money has alot to do with us doing the job versus a contractor. That being said, I hope someone can help out here with this roof problem. *I refuse to believe that it can only be corrected by a tear off and install. Let's put our heads together, Big Smile Now, and get this done. *:thumbup:


I've just perused several shingle installation manuals, just to make sure nothing has changed. Nothing has. I'm sorry the OP installed his roof incorrectly. I wish I was wrong. Maybe he'll get lucky. Maybe he knows something the shingle manufacturers don't. 

Maybe if I take the brakes off of my car, the weight reduction will get me better gas mileage.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I merged some posts (from the same people) trying to make the thread easier to read
Accidently merged 2 posts by different people

One reason for Pro's to be here is to point out what we -as DIY- do wrong

I'm not a roofer...I've done a few....used I&W on my low slope
Not sure from the pic what you used as a rafter, does look like 2x4's
Even a 2x6 will only span ~12' depending upon species & grade 
Hopefully pics are deceiving & used at least a 2x8 for a 16' span

As well as code you must follow Mfg instructions


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Well CU, I just looked up the installation instructions, MSDS, technical data and everything else on my Owens Corning "Classic" 20 yr series shingles and it specifically states for "Standard decking" which is obviously 4/12, but ALSO states for "Low slope decks" and it is in black and white 2"-4". I have also attached the link to the technical details I have listed above. So, if I follow the MANUFACTURERS DOCUMENTATION, then I have done it correctly. Maybe not to YOUR standards, but according to the installation instructions, which they will warranty up to 20 years, I have done it correctly. Now, the fascia is done wrong, I know that. However, the pitch is perfectly fine and will work.

http://roofing.owenscorning.com/docs/installationinstructions/Done_3-Tab_Install2.pdf


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

EVERYONE!!!! Just so I have your attention. I DID NOT SPAN 2X4s 16'. I HAD A TRUSS COMPANY MAKE ME TRUSSES THAT SPAN 16'. HOLY CRAP!!! Every house here in San Antonio is built with 2x4 trusses, so how come I am doing it wrong? I'm not. I know you can't visibly see the trusses, but let me help you rest better.


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## DUDE! (May 3, 2008)

a house going up across the street from me used trusses like that, or similar,, I had to google to learn about it,, is very strong, cheaper to put up, you just don't have attic space with it. I greatly understand the pro's coming in here to help, of course we need them as DIY's. I expect when mistakes are made that someone is smart enough to figure how to make it right. Of course, I might be a little bit naive and not want to hear bad news. I enjoy helping people, I wish I had more knowledge to share. Carry on....


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

psychomti said:


> Well CU, I just looked up the installation instructions, MSDS, technical data and everything else on my Owens Corning "Classic" 20 yr series shingles and it specifically states for "Standard decking" which is obviously 4/12, but ALSO states for "Low slope decks" and it is in black and white 2"-4". I have also attached the link to the technical details I have listed above. So, if I follow the MANUFACTURERS DOCUMENTATION, then I have done it correctly. Maybe not to YOUR standards, but according to the installation instructions, which they will warranty up to 20 years, I have done it correctly. Now, the fascia is done wrong, I know that. However, the pitch is perfectly fine and will work.
> 
> http://roofing.owenscorning.com/docs/installationinstructions/Done_3-Tab_Install2.pdf


OK, there, psycho. OC was a brand I did not look up and apparently they have recently revised the 3/12 rating down to 2/12. Good news for you and thanks for pointing that out to me. But, as I mentioned before, there are special underlayment requirements for below 4/12 ( they have been revised recently, as well). Hopefully you followed them. If not, you might get lucky. 

I guess you probably don't get much snow in San Antonio. But I suspect you get a good hard rain every now and then. The reason for the extra underlayment provision on low slopes is that the water travels more slowly and tends to pond on lower slope roofs. Water can breach the shingles at the gap between the tabs and get below the shingles at the joints between shingles. You are then depending on the underlayment to shed that water. If you don't have the eave detailed correctly, that water can get behind your fascia and rot it out.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Here's the deal... I have done my research!! I have dug my entire foundation with an excavator, poured the concrete myself, had a structual engineer look at it during the prepour and the final state and gave me a certificate to give to the city. I did all the framing myself and the framing inspector signed off on it, all the AC ductwork is done and that is signed off as done correctly. So, as far as I am concerned, my addition is done the correct way and have had ZERO problems until now. So, I understand that there are "Pros" here that know everything, but some of us on this site don't have all teh "tools" or "knowledge" needed to build an entire house by themselves. I simply asked for help in the beginning with my roof and stated what I already knew were problems. I provided pictures showing what I had done incorrectly and had even stated SEVERAL times about me NOT putting the fascia on correctly, actually not putting it on at all. Ok, so I missed a step. However, there is a way to point out problems with the way someone does it and then run them down telling them to just start the hell all over again because they didn't do their own research and "acted" before knowing the facts. Really? Is this why people come to this site, to be ridiculed by the "Pros" that think they know everything? Well, let me tell ya, there are people that think they know everything and people that actually know everything and I will be the first to tell you that I am neither of those people. I simply ran into a problem and asked for some help. I can see why people can't stand contractors and try to do things themselves. It is because of crap like this. So, before you even think about responding with some idiot comments, go somewhere else, maybe to another site for jerks, because I don't remember the point in time that I turned into one. Oh yeah, I remember, it was when I was told that I didn't do any of my research, I haven't done anything right, and that I should just rip everything off and start all over. Really? Yeah, I'm definitely going to take your advice. Thanks for those that helped, I will now go do some additional "research" which was obviously not written by the "Pros" on this forum, but "real" pros.

Thanks for making this experience a real winner!!!! I'll go somewhere else where I can get some "real" advice from people that actually "want" to offer and help you.

Thanks again!!!!

Mike


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

And thats all folks
Thread will be re-opened after everyone cools off

Thread re-opened
I suggest everyone keep calm
Once multiple problems are noticed, other areas are then looked at
There wasn't any indication you used trusses
Would not be the 1st time someone tried to use 2x4's for a roof


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Alright, I had a "professional" come out and look at EVERYTHING I have done and gave me some pointers. Yes, I now know quite a bit more than I did when I started and if I ever build something like this again, I now know the correct methods of attack. So, lets just work on one item at a time. Here is my new question. For my flying rafters, I simply built them and nailed them to the gable rafter. I need to find the easiest way to keep this from drooping or essentially "Falling off" the side of the house. HAHA!! So, he suggested to go to a welding shop and have them fabricate a traingular support bracket that would hold it better than what it is now. He said to then lag bolt the bracket into the gable rafter. Now, I am the type of person to ask for other options to save money, so does anyone have any other ideas, and no, I am not ripping the entire roof off to fix this either. Please see attached photos so you will know exactly what I am referring to.

Thanks in advance for your help!!!


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Everyone, I want to apologize for going "psycho' on people for pointing out my mistakes. However, please realize that I am NO professional, and am simply here asking for help like everyone else. I do appreciate your help and if you had not pointed out the problem areas, I would not have been as concerned about making sure it is done correctly. Again, I appreciate your help and hope to get some good QUALITY feedback and advice from people that have either made the same mistakes, or avoided them.

Thanks again!!!

Mike


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

The picture below illustrates how a "rake ladder" is typically done. Your end trusses should have been spec'd to accept ladders. The way you have framed it will sag over time. 

One thing that might help some is to add a 2x sub fascia at the eave that that extends back across several trusses. Since you have to add to the bottom of the shingles anyway, that shouldn't be a big deal. Hopefully you have several full sheets of OSB tying the fly rafter back to several trusses.

edit:forgot to attach pic.see below

Here's the detail:


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

seeyou said:


> Here's the detail:


Wow, way overkill, but ya it will work.

Most fly rafters on new homes are stapled to the sheathing, nailed together at the peak and that's it. No look outs, no nothing. I've even seen them not even nailed to the subfascia at the eave.

With only a 1 foot overhang, I believe what he has will be fine. JMO and experience.

Remember "quality", "professional", and "saving money" hardly ever go together. Good luck.

It's tough not to say........you should just start over. :furious:

Sorry :whistling2:


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

CU, yes I have full sheets extending all the way back so at least that part is done right. So, basically I have to notch out the top of the gable truss and run a 2x4 along the top of it and attach to the end of the fly rafter? Do you think I could get away with only doing 3 of them? One on bottom, one on top and one in the middle?


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

psychomti said:


> CU, yes I have full sheets extending all the way back so at least that part is done right.* So, basically I have to notch out the top of the gable truss and run a 2x4 along the top of it and attach to the end of the fly rafter? Do you think I could get away with only doing 3 of them? One on bottom, one on top and one in the middle?*



Don't cut the trusses, although if you had to cut one, the end truss would be the one to cut. If the overhang is only a foot (looks like more to me), then what you've done is probably acceptable. The bottom corner is probably the most susceptible to sagging. Since you've got a sub fascia to add any way, add a 2x sub fascia to the ends of the trusses. That will also make it closer to a full shingle reveal to be added to the bottom. 

You never did answer my underlayment question.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

CU, thanks!! As far as your underlayment question, you talking about the OSB or felt paper? As far as OSB, yes I put full sheets running horizontal all the way up. As far ad felt paper, I used the thin stuff. Prolly should have went with something heavier due to the slope of the roof, but I ended up using the thin felt paper. If those weren't the underlayment question you had, then I may have to go back and read your posts again and find tour question.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

What about this? What if I had some sort of metal plate, then drilled a few holes in it and attached the fly rafter to the gable truss with pretty good sized lag bolts. Would that help? Yeah, I know it is only a foot overhang and that it may be good like it is, buy I wanna make sure it isn't gonna sag in a few years. In 20 yrs, when I reshingle the roof, I'll probably strenghten it better then, just trying to keep it from sagging too much at all until then.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

psychomti said:


> CU, thanks!! As far as your underlayment question, you talking about the OSB or felt paper? As far as OSB, yes I put full sheets running horizontal all the way up. As far ad felt paper, I used the thin stuff. Prolly should have went with something heavier due to the slope of the roof, but I ended up using the thin felt paper. If those weren't the underlayment question you had, then I may have to go back and read your posts again and find tour question.



I'm asking about the shingle underlayment. To install those shingles on that slope, you need to half lap your underlayment per manufacturer's instructions. Did you do that?

On the rake ladder: There may be some Simpson connectors that will help add some strength. I'd check into that.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

When you say half lap, do you mean to overlap half of it on top of each other, thus almost making it 2 layers? Yes, I overlapped it but it wasn't 1/2 way, I would say about 1/4 way. So, hopefully everything is sealed good, I'll know after this weekend when it really comes down, supposed to rain pretty good this weekend. Also, as far as the flashing by the wall, I got that all taken care of with an additional roll of roll flashing that is now behind the foam board insulation, which is behind the vinyl siding. I literally took a pressure washer to it and got nothing below, so I think that is taken care of.


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Let me work on roof a little this weekend if the rain holds out and I'll post more pics. I am going to take all of your suggestions to heart and start fixing some of the stuff that I either forgot or messed up on. I am going to lag bolt the fly rafter on a little better about every 24", going to put my subfascia and fascia on, extend out the shingles so that they are done correctly and do a couple of other things. It is probably going to take a while, but I would rather fix it now before i go any further. Thanks again for all your suggestions, if there is anything else you can think of that I need to do while I am fixing all this, please let me know. 

Again, Thanks!!

Mike


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

I wonder if something like this would work, obviously with some serious lag bolts to hold it in place.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

how about some decorative/structural gable brackets


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

Hmmmmm, what do ya have in mind?


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

You talking about something like this? I've never thought of these but I bet they would look really nice!!!

http://www.google.com/m/search?site...lient=safari&q=structural gable brackets#i=12


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

there ya go:thumbsup:


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

i know the guy in the first pic:thumbup:


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## psychomti (Apr 5, 2010)

*Thanks!!!*

To all that offered advice and gave me some good pointers, well... It definitely paid off!!! I just passed my electrical and the framing inspections today from the city. The inspector said it looked alot better than most of the residential framing that he has seen. :thumbup:He even said that I went a little overboard in some areas, which was lag bolting all the corners together as well as nailing them too. I just didn't want to chance this thing falling down on me in the later years. HAHA!!

Again, thanks for all the info and YES, I fixed all the things that everyone said that I had done wrong, to include the sub fascia, fascia, roof, roof vents, soffit, etc.

I will post some pics on here later on when I get home from work!!

Thanks again!!

Mike Joyner


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