# Dual fuel range, oven doesn't work.



## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

I bought used a Kitchen Aid Classic Commercial Style Dual Fuel Convection Range KDRP462. Cleaned well and hooked it up today. All burners including grill burner work fine. Oven does nothing.

The two knobs and display that control the oven appear to work properly as the display changes with the knob settings. But the oven does not heat. The 110v and 220v power supply makes it fine to the first board inside. I checked for loose wires, plugs, melted connections and so on, found nothing.

Any help would be much appreciated. There is a two wire plug on the back that I do not know what it is for, I though diagnostic, but I think codes may come up on the digital display, none do.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Make sure you have 240 to the unit. Do not test by reading 120 from each leg to ground or neutral. Read across both hot legs and verify the 240.


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## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

It is new construction, wired it myself. I have two 120 legs to the range. How can't I have 240v? How would I check?


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## Master of Cold (Aug 7, 2011)

You would have to read across both 120 legs with a volt meter.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

bkvanbek said:


> It is new construction, wired it myself. I have two 120 legs to the range. How can't I have 240v? How would I check?


If you have 2 hots from the same leg of the panel, you will not get 240. This can happen if you do not use a 2 pole breaker or you use a 2 pole tandem in the wrong position.


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## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

I used a 6-3 w/ground and a 50amp two pole breaker. it is getting 240v.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

check to see if you are getting 240 v to the element


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

There's a thermal fuse mounted on the back of oven behind inner panel [2 red wires] that controls L2-test with ohm meter. if open- jump that out and see if oven comes on or codes out. they're real touchy and usually pop in self clean..blower has to work- properly- to keep oven chassis cool enough.....that free connector is for factory test.


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## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

The thermal fuse has power in each wire so it must be closed. I have not found my multi-tester yet. but a current detector beeps only at the thermal fuse, the elements are getting nothing.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

bkvanbek said:


> The thermal fuse has power in each wire so it must be closed. I have not found my multi-tester yet. but a current detector beeps only at the thermal fuse, the elements are getting nothing.


Not a valid test. The fuse could be open and you are seeing voltage from both legs, one leg on each side of the fuse. You need that meter, test continuity of the fuse with the power off.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

you can not test with current tester. find a multimeter and check fuse with 1 wire unattached. while your back there do the same on the bake element


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## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

I found the multi-tester, not that I am great with it. But I had next to no resistance through the thermal fuse. The main heating element had about 28 ohms and the broiler about 20. I verified I have 244v going between the two legs of the plug.

Thank you very much for the help, any other ideas?


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

If you have 120vac to control at P4-1 n 2 and other side of line 120vac to R at control. in bake you should have 240vac at P5-3 to R. if not=bad control...


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## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

if I did this right, please feel free to "dumb down" explainations for me. I have 120vac to p4-1 and p4-2. I have 120vac before and after the thermal fuse and to R on the top of a relay (T9AS1D22-24), but not the other side of the relay.

Can I pull the wires of the relay to bypass it, to test it?


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## bkvanbek (Jul 25, 2010)

I called an appliance repairman, he came out and confirmed my suspicion that it was the main control board, $200. He put one on will-call at his supplier and I went and got it, paid $190 with the exchange of the old one. Came home plugged it in...And the oven still doesn't work, I get no voltage from the one side of the relay!

Now what?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Time to call the repairman back. I would have let him install the board and be responsible for it.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

why would you call a repairman,pay a service charge and not let him finish the job?


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