# Same drywall cracked multiple times, how to repair it properly



## dc638 (Mar 12, 2011)

There's multiple areas in my house have crack on the drywall. They are mostly vertical cracks on the 2nd floor.

I attached 3 pictures
- picture 1 and 2 is the bathroom
- picture 3 is in the guest bedroom.

This is happening on a 4 years old house in Massachusetts. I spoke with my builder 2 years ago and they said this is mostly likely caused by the house is settling.

The builder recommended me to just fix it with spackling.

So here I am, after 2 years, and fixed it about 3 times, it is still cracking. The cracking happens in the same exact location. I wonder if using spackling is not enough or if there's a more serious problem (perhaps I should hire a home inspector to check this out).

Note that in one of the picture the crack starts off horizontal then turns about 90 degrees to a vertical crack.

Any thoughts? If there is no major concern on a more serious problem, any suggestion on how to fix this properly?

Thanks!


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## HDS (Jun 21, 2014)

How well is the drywall attached to the wall? Is there tape in the corner? Will probably need to cut out the bad tape, if it is there, and retape. Joint and/or topping compound feathered out.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Spackle was the wrong product especially in a corner. If it were me I would dig out the spackle then using easy sand dura bond re-tape those corners. then 2 coats of pre mixed joint compound.

The dura bond will have much greater strength than the spackle or pre mixed. and use paper tape. And since you will need to repaint anyway might be a good idea to do the other corners at the same time.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Are these exterior or interior walls? If you push on the drywall around the crack does it move at all? Redoing it with tape might help, but it looks like there is a decent amount of movement there. It likely will crack again unless it really is settling and the process is finished/paused.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Spackling won't work, as the builder knows, or should know. He's just putting you off with a short term solution.

Yes, house settling does occur. Or, it could be some bad construction technique. Not really possible to tell with the drywall on. See if there's any movement in the drywall. If so, it needs to be refastened with screws. If not, then you can hope the house has mostly finished settling. Now it's time to retape those areas.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

was any type of paper or mesh added during mud'ing ??? i suspect not.

cut that crap out with a knife and add some fiber mesh tape, you can get the wide stuff if need be (the stuff used with cool-deck roof coatings). clean the corner out, make sure wallboards are secured properly, lay bed of mud, push in some mesh, knife it clean. let dry, go back for 2nd coat, light sand, 3rd finish skim coat, sand as needed.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Actually mesh tape is weak at the best of times, not good with drying compound, and especially notgood in corners, and trouble corners in particular. Use paper tape, and preferrably setting compound for that trouble spot.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

a fiber mesh should be much stronger than paper when it comes to tearing, no? but sure, paper is ok too, find a thicker paper though and make sure it wets well with the mud, etc.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Yes paper has to be well embedded and wet with mud, just part of the skill of taping. The plastic in mesh tape might seem stronger, but there is just not enough of it - it's mostly air. If you really hate paper, you can use FibaFuse instead for corners. But mesh is notoriously weak and basically for amateurs


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

plastic? i mean the fiberglass stuff.


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

Actually that looks like more than just a bad tape job, looks like something is moving or settling


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

concrete_joe said:


> plastic? i mean the fiberglass stuff.


It's still mesh. Mesh tape is a bad product unless used with hot mud and even with that it's bad in corners.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

That's clearly not drywall movement, but rather structural movement which means the problem is deeper than just cracks in the drywall. As long as the structure is moving there is no sense in mudding it up because it will just crack again. You have to wait until it finishes settling (if that indeed is what it is). If the studding used was extremely wet then there will be some shifting as the studs dry out, but all this should stop in time. Judging by the cracking it appears the wall behind the toilet is indeed settling downwards. Don't know if you have a basement but if you do and have adjustable teleposts in that area then you may want to mark and measure it and check it every week or so for changes. If it doesn't stop then you have a deeper issue and you may have to pull the drywall to find out what's going on back there.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I'm still a bit mystified by the "fiberglas tape is bad" for repairs mantra that I hear on DIY quite often. I have used it for at least the last 25 years or so on a variety of cracks and have never had anyone call back to say the crack has returned. In fact, I have a repair in a corner of a 200 year old church that I did 12 years ago that still looks perfect. It was a large crack that ran the full length of the corner, about 20 feet.

It sure makes it easy to do repairs. It sticks to the surface without mudding, cuts easily, and gets you in and out of repair jobs in a timely manner. I guess I'm wondering what the science is that says fiberglas tape is a no-no.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Yes it might work, but then it might not. It's simply not as strong as well embedded paper. There's just too much open space in it. It's a product invented for ease of use, not strength. I know you do a lot of painting, so the equivalent might be saying hey I didn't use primer and my paint didn't fall off, so why the fuss over primer? Or I used cheap paint and it stayed on the wall, so what's the problem? Just because it often works doesn't mean it's best.

Any _real _drywall expert will tell you that mesh tape requires setting compound, which really negates the convenience aspect of it.

If you want the benefits of mesh tape, but don't like paper, then use FibaFuse.
There is a video of it here. I use it often and it works great.
http://www.sg-adfors.com/Brands/FibaTape/FibaFuseDrywallTape/HowTo/English

The only thing I'd add is that you don't have to premud the joint if you don't want to. If you don't, you just have to make sure to press the mud through the tape. It's not sticky like mesh tape, so you have to at least put a little dab of mud at 2 spots to hold it up while you mud over it. But FibaFuse is a great compromise and easier to use and get right compared to paper.


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## westleykarcher (Apr 7, 2014)

Slab or pier and beam? An idea comes to mind... my 400 square ft workshop was built with 5/8 plywood instead of sheetrock. It's probably the strongest structure on my property. I am going to renovate the area into a game room/theater room, but I plan to leave the plywood on and just apply Spanish texture and paint. I bet that would stop the cracking in your situation, but plywood isn't cheap. Just a thought...

I was a professional drywall mechanic for about 5 years. Worked in the Horseshoe bay area in Marble Falls...


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Agree Fiba Fuse is a great product. It has almost completely replaced my paper tape.


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