# Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?



## Zel1

I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor. 

For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges. 

I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


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## Guest

I've seen one like this from Congoleum but I've never seen it down. It's suppose to be a thinner version of the classic no-wax vinyl plank flooring they use in auto dealerships and similar commercial environments. I have no idea of it's performance but the congoleum is speced for light commercial use so it should be fairly tough.


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## Zel1

Thanks for the reply. I found another forum site with about 8 pages of info about it, and even a company rep was there asnswering questions. I got up to page 5 and all the info was positive. The biggest complaint was the lack of color choices available at that time and the unforgiveness of the adhesive. They said you pretty much had to get the plank in position right the first time, because you couldnt pull them apart and reset the piece. In the end they agreed it was a good thing and would mean less chance of the planks moving once installed.


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## Guest

I seem to recall congoleum's being the same way. Once it's stuck you aren't getting it apart.


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## RLNCC

I Have Seen This Traficmaster Allure Flooring And Would Like Some Thoughts Of Useing It In A Manufactured Home And How Good It Would Ware Especially With 2 Dogs And Lots Of Foot Trafic. Just How Good It Would Be To Cross The Seperation Of The 2 Sides.


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## Concordseeker

I tried it at Home Depot and could get the sections apart and restick them. Maybe it's after the glue sets up that you can't move it. I have to say I really like the look of it, for what it is.


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## Ash74

*Allure Vinyl Flooring*

Here's the deal....

I work at a Home Depot in Columbus Ohio. I've been in flooring for a number of years and I know my stuff but Im always looking for ways to better educate my associates and my customers.

Recently I've been looking into the Allure vinyl flooring. We had a customer that bought around 50 boxes to do their whole first floor then got cold feet when it came time to install. Because this is considered a DIY product, our installers in this market will not install Allure Flooring. 

Everything Ive seen on this product looks like it would be simple to install but the cust returned the floor and went with something else. Install aside, Im leery of the claim that the product is truly "water resistant".

What I would like to know is what everyone else thinks about Allure, good and bad. I've read a couple messages on the boards here so far so I know we already have a mixed bag. 

Thanks for your time and your thoughts.


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## mike costello

Jury is still out. Its a new unproven product.

No offence , but the fact that only HD carries it would be enough to make me leary of it


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## Ash74

No offense taken.

Allure is HD exclusive but the type of floor and the technology is not. There are several other, more expensive products that work the same way (although the names escape me for now... they're mentioned in another post on this site so I'll look 'em up real quick).

Here we go: Konectousa.com has a similar product in a larger variety of styles than HD. Armstrong also makes a similar product.


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## Rehabber

I have now done 3 installs of Allure. It is a relatively simple install. and looks nice when finished. My customers each chose it, and had me install. They are all pleased with the results. I believe it to be well within the average DIYer's ability to install. They will need a tap weasure, razorknife, speed square and straightedge and go for it.:yes:


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## Floorwizard

Usually HD carries exclusive products that are made by good manufacturers but sometimes are not as high a quality.
Perhaps this quality is not as good of an install as other higher brands.


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## Martin A C

I have recently installed the Cherry Allure flooring in our basement, first thing "Heelys" the kid shoes with the roller wheels in the heel are a No -No! Our flooring now has skid marks that I cannot clean up at this moment. These skid marks are most noticeable on an angle as the light reflects upon the markings. 

As for the installation it went real well. There has been no separation of the planks other than the ones that I had not placed very well. They can be removed (with patience so not to brake off the glue tabs) and re-installed, but you would have to do this prior to installing the next pieces or it becomes a bit of a project. There may be some edges that rise a bit which I applied my foot to press back down. 

I can answer back later in more detail, I gotta run - Grandma's 94th B-day.

Tony M


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## techdude

*Allure*

I'll be undertaking this project as well. It's going in the basement and i'm not too concerned with it taking a beating. The real stuff is in my upstairs. I just can't believe HomeDepot.com wants to charge me 400 bucks online to ship the stuff. They're insane. I'll just purchase one of the few selections they have at my local shop. Currently it's only Cherry, Oak, Hickory and saw some Teak in there recently. Anyone install something that they liked? My family all seems to like the Cherry.


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## Argy 78

Due to it's light weight I was thinking of installing the Allure flooring in my travel trailer but I am concerned about the product holding to the wood floor with all the temperature changes and our dog. Has anyone installed Allure or any other light weight type flooring in a travel trailer that has held up in this type of environment and use?


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## mngal

*Trafficemaster Allure Vinyl Flooring--BAD Experience!!*

Just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to Halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid MOLD growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! you have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!


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## Gerry12

Would like to see pictures if possible of the mould problem expressed by MNGAL. My wife and I are considering putting Allure TrafficMaster in our basement for a games room where we we now have a pool table and air hockey table. Currently it is bare cement. I was going to maybe glue a layer of wood first for warmth. But after reading about your problem not sure what to do. Did you put it down on top of bare cement? Would love to get email sent to [email protected]. Can't always get on the forum and look for possible writings


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## Argy 78

After talking with the people in the paint department at Home Depot about the probability of moisture and the probability of mold growth. They suggested that I fist clean the floor with a mold inhibitor to get rid of as much mold as possible then apply some sort of protector, like Thompson's or a water based urethane for wood sub floor before installing the Allure.
My concern is of the lifting of the edges with Allure and how to replace pieces that might lift with any of these products. My RV repair man stated that most RV's now come with glued vinyl flooring to help prevent any moisture problems and carpet over the vinyl in the areas that are requested.

PS I was at Costco and looked at some composite flooring, like Pergo, that is about the same price range if not lower than Allure but not as easy to install.


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## madeyoulook

*hd worker*

To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.

PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.


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## techdude

*Trafficmaster*

I've installed this product in my basement over vinyl tile a few months ago. It was about a 60 sq ft hallway and so far so good. I installed the Cherry color and the only issue i have is that it shows dirt/dust more so than a lighter color. There are no seams coming up and installation was relatively easy, except for those places you have to cut. I was going to do a bigger area, but it would have been a two person job and I didn't have the extra set of hands. I'll probably do the bathroom with the tile version of the same product. If you have a dry basement this product is great.....and I rarely take the time to post a comment or review about products unless they work for me. Good luck all.


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## RLNCC

*flooring*

I ASKED FOR HELP IN SEPT ON ALLURE FLOORING, BUT SINCE THAT I HAVE INSTALLED IT IN MY MANUFACTURED HOME IN THE KITCHEN AND LAUNDRY ROOM, IT WAS QUITE A JOB WITH A LOT OF CUTTING AS MY KITCHEN IN ROUND WITH A LOT OF ANGLES, WE LOVE IT GOT A LOT OF COMPLEMENTS ON IT. I MIGHT ADD THAT I AM A LADY OF 82 YEARS OLD AND DID ALL THE WORK BY MYSELF WITH A DISABLED HUSBAND. SO IF I CAN DO IT ANY ONE SHOULD BE ABLE TO. GOT THE BEST LOOKING KITCHEN FLOOR IN THE NEIGBORHOOD. :thumbsup:


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## pcdoc2010

I will be starting to install this in my foyer soon and have a question about anchoring it the floor.

My foyer is flanked by the front door and 3 rooms of carpeting. Since this is supposed to be a floating floor, should I anchor it somehow to the carpet sections or will the transition strip serve that purpose?

Thanks!

Dan


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## techdude

*allure flooring*

I laid the flooring first and just had carpet installed a few days ago. The carpet installer did a good job with just the transitioning strip. I guess you could use double edged carpet tape if necessary.


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## pcdoc2010

We are not yet replacing the carpet, but are getting new strips. 
I had read other info about doublesided tape as well.

Thanks for your reply, it eases the apprehension a bit  
(first time laying floor)


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## techdude

*re:*

That was my first time as well. Just buy some extra just in case. I messed up a few times myself. Also, i used a hair dryer to heat up the strip a little before attaching. I read that somewhere myself. Not sure if it helped or not, but i was worried about the seams popping up. I wish they put a better cover on the tacky strips so you could lay them on the floors without worrying about getting dirt on them, but oh well. Good luck.


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## pcdoc2010

Thanks for the tips and the luck!

Did you trim the wall edge of the panels? The instructions show this and it looks like I should trim off the overlapping pieces *only* at the wall edges.


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## techdude

*re:*

Right...when you're starting against the wall, you need to remove the glue strip area that faces the floor and not the area where the glue faces up....if that makes sense.


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## pcdoc2010

yes it does and that is exactly what I thought I had to do.

Thanks again!


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## v468922

*Allure Flooring*

I just laid this product in my home - approximately 450 sq ft worth - laundry room, bathroom, hall and under stair closet downstairs; bathroom, hall, kitchen, dining room and three closets upstairs. I LOVE the look! It was relatively simple once I got the hang of it. You have to be careful not to get the sticky tabs together until you are sure you have them aligned as they will stick very well at times and can be hard to pull apart.

I went over my existing linoleum in some rooms and cement and subfloor in others. There is a slight noticeable transition from the bathroom to the hall where there is linoleum in the bath and cement in the hall, but I can live with that.

Just to let everyone know, I am a 50 yr old woman and if I can put down this product, anyone can! Since I just finished it, I cannot comment on how well it will wear or if the seams will have problems - but I understand that Safeway has installed it in some of their supermarkets. 

There are a couple of things we'll have to get used to - since I went with the Hickory color, I do notice lint and such more than I did with the light flooring we had before and since I pulled up the carpet in the hallways, we have to get used to flooring instead - it's a bit slippery when wearing socks.

I don't worry about mold as one person commented about because none of my areas had mold when I started.


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## dan-abby

*Ab*

thinking about doing this flooring on a new bathroom. we are installing radiant floor heat... anyone know if this heating will affect the glue?


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## warmsmeallup

dan-abby said:


> thinking about doing this flooring on a new bathroom. we are installing radiant floor heat... anyone know if this heating will affect the glue?


That's a question for the glue manufacturer...get them to approve it and you're covered. If you don't, you're not.

Also, is the element being installed in the glue or a SLC or similar? What's the design?


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## [email protected]

madeyoulook said:


> To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.
> 
> PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.


I am glad you sent this. We live in a 4 level split, and we have an indoor hot tub in the lowest level. There are no windows as it is under ground level. It has leaked a few times, which created a bit of mold. We ripped up the lino and carpet, and I was thinking of putting the vinyl down on the concrete. It is a small space of 250 sq feet.What is your advice of this? Will it create more mold with the humidity? and what would you recommend otherwise? I really don't want to glue as we could lift it up if there was another leak.


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## dan-abby

Thanks for the input on the radiant floor heat. As for now we are back on tile on the bathroom. My husband took one look at the Traffic Master Allure and said "your kidding right??". I loved it, especially in the bathroom (we are doing hardwood flooring thruout the rest of the addition). I still welcome all input as we have a few months to debate (argue!!). As for the question... I am not sure what you're refering to... we have just laid the tubing, and Tues they will pour 1 1/2" concrete over it, then that will be our subfloor. Does that answer your question??
-Abby


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## dan-abby

*To: WARMSMEALLUP*

as in the response from WARMSMEALLUP


dan-abby said:


> Thanks for the input on the radiant floor heat. As for now we are back on tile on the bathroom. My husband took one look at the Traffic Master Allure and said "your kidding right??". I loved it, especially in the bathroom (we are doing hardwood flooring thruout the rest of the addition). I still welcome all input as we have a few months to debate (argue!!). As for the question... I am not sure what you're refering to... we have just laid the tubing, and Tues they will pour 1 1/2" concrete over it, then that will be our subfloor. Does that answer your question??
> -Abby


 .


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## Prowler

Last fall I laid 400 sq. ft. of the Cherry Allure over cement with in-floor radiant water heat. During the winter months I have frequently noticed an odor that I thought has been coming from my septic system. After exhaustive checking and testing I have all but ruled out the septic system as the source. That leaves only the Allure as the most likely culprit. Has anyone else noticed an odor while using this product over in-floor heat? Could it be the glue or the material itself that emits an odor as it is warmed by the radiant heat? I did not notice any odors last fall until I closed the house up and turned the heat on for the winter.


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## kristiewiens

*Allure Flooring*

We just had the Allure Flooring installed (the kind that looks like ceramic tiles) and it is beautiful. We had it installed in the kitchen, foyer, hallway, and half bathroom.
i do have a question, we have a few SCUFF marks, (resemble eraser marks) and i can't seem to remove them. Does anyone have any suggestions? I tried the MR CLEAN MAGIC ERASER and had no luck. I have also tried BRUCE's NO WAX FLOOR CLEANER (sold at Home Depot and made fore Pergo adn Allure flooring), again, no luck.
Does anyone know how to contact HALSTEAD (the manufacturer)?
I appreciate any insight!
Thanks
Kristie


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## allyup

*your opinion*



madeyoulook said:


> To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.
> 
> PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.




We are remodeling our kitchen and I'm now shopping for flooring. I am considering the trafficmaster allure floor. We have discovered that underneath the sheet vinyl on the floor now there is a layer of asphalt. 
question-will this asphalt eat at or otherwise damage the allure planks? Any other advise and/or opinions about this product weuld be appreciated. Thanks.:no:


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## TBailey

*Allure Flooring*

We just came back from Home Depot and pretty much have decided on the cherry Allure flooring for our LR,DR, foyer and hall. It looks very nice and oddly enough I feel confident that I can do the install. I was wondering if anyone could speak to its ability to withstand dog traffic. We have an 85 lb lab. Thanks for your response.


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## HomeDepot23

*Allure*

I just finished my second installation of Allure. The first one was for my parents in a spare bedroom. To be honest I was not looking forward to doing another as I had a hard time with it and I have laid thousands of square feet of commercial vinyl tile in hospitals and other businesses.

This time I had to install 500 square feet in my wife's parents newly purchased manufactured home in 2 bathrooms, laundry room, dining room, kitchen and a quarter of the living room. Lots of cutting and angles, just like the lady said earlier.

This installation went very well and the biggest difference that I could attribute it to was room temperature. The first installation if I put the piece together slightly off it would often tear as I tried to separate them. Also I was getting glue all over my hands and knife as though I was installing those old VCT squares again. Except this was much harder to cut and a blade full of glue did not help.

This weekend my in-laws kept the home around 76-78 degrees, nice as it is in the 90's outside. My parents are lucky if their house gets below 82. The warmest rooms this time were the kitchen and laundry rooms and those rooms the tiles were a little tougher to separate, but much better and I got no glue on my hands or, more importantly, on my knife.

My biggest issues (apart from damaging a PVC pipe causing a leak under the home, but that is another story) were, as I said previously, cutting and meeting up two rooms where one is already down where it looks like you would have to back install right to left instead of left to right so to speak.

The cutting is not easy to me, at least cutting with the grain, my knife would slip or my straight edge, then it took some thumb muscles to snap them. My hats off to the ladies who did this job with no problem. I muddled through, although the base of my thumbs and forefingers are screaming at me.

The second issue is hard to explain. I began in the living room and came out into the dining room and down the hall, finally I had the dining room to the point where it met the kitchen, and also, down the hall I had a bathroom on the left. I would have put in thresholds at each doorway, but you don't know my father in-law. That won't fly. 

In the kitchen I ran a line of several pieces to meet up with my dining room. I then screwed down a 1x4 next to the pieces to keep them straight. Then installed from left to right (after measuring and cutting my first piece to make sure it would work) and soon I was putting in the pieces next to my long run. It was maybe 1/32" off, but was just forgiving enough to work.

The bathroom, I made my first cut, which unfortunately was about 1/2" and ran allong the bathtub, I felt like an amatuer about now, I put in my second row and re-measured. It looked like I was still going to be off. I picked up the pieces as one and trimmed off 1/16" with my right handed carpet scissors taking skin off my already aching thumb. It seemed with each row my 6" wide boards seemed to be adding to my woes. Luckily I had made my end cuts a little loose in case I had to rotate a smidge and I left my starting pieces tight.

Sure enough I had to make more adjustments. I cut another 1/6" off my first row, by holding it a few inches off the floor, leaving me a piece that looks impossibly small by the tub and then with my wife watching the seam I got into the tub and pulled the whole piece until the seams lined up.

The job looked spectacular, for the most part it looks like I wouldn't need quarter round or shoe molding. But I know it needs it.

I would recommend this product. The Home Depot associate was exactly right with his comments, although I am sad that he hates his job. I have worked in flooring for my first 7 years there, although now I expedite the flooring and doors and windows department to try to help cut down on issues. I have been doing that almost a year.

I hope this helps somebody. There are so many tricks that can be passed on. For example, I never read the part wher you cut off the glued edge on the one side when you begin a fresh wall. On the first job it looked stupid with the wood suddenly dipping. Luckily my Dad's wallbase was about an inch. Also, I never tried using an old fashioned linoleum knife. I wonder if that would have cut easier?


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## HomeDepot23

Allyup. Is that asphalt as in "ashphalt tiles"? If it is this, then it is fine. Although older tiles may have asbestos, they will not cause any harm untile they are lifted.


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## allyup

*your opinion*



HomeDepot23 said:


> Allyup. Is that asphalt as in "ashphalt tiles"? If it is this, then it is fine. Although older tiles may have asbestos, they will not cause any harm untile they are lifted.




I should have been more specific. What we're concerned about is that the surface of the asphalt tile came off as my husband was prepping for the cabinet installation and now it's the black tar like adhesive that is exposed. This is the material that we wonder if it will damage the allure flooring. :thumbsup:


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## HomeDepot23

Hmm. That is a good question. The cutback adhesive can have reactions with other adhesives. The adhesive on the allure is not likely to touch the cutback, so my gut reaction is that it would be fine.

As I just stated in a previous thread, you might want to try a bonding agent like a floor leveller primer to give the cutback something else to fight.

Or if you have time, place a 3x3 area down on the floor and let it sit for a while (I have no idea what a while is) and see if anything develops.


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## rockydogg

I am a bit confused on the cutting for the initial piece. The box said to cut 1/8 inch off but from what I understand from some posts the idea is to cut the adhesive strip off that will be closest to the wall. Can someone clarify this point?


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## HomeDepot23

Cut the 1" adhesive strip off, or the flooring will dip at the wall.


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## rockydogg

My respects to the 80+ year old lady who did her kitchen. I just completed mine, I wouldn't say it was hard to do, except for the cutting and the getting up and down. Wife loved it so I guess it was a success.


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## [email protected]

kristiewiens said:


> We just had the Allure Flooring installed (the kind that looks like ceramic tiles) and it is beautiful. We had it installed in the kitchen, foyer, hallway, and half bathroom.
> i do have a question, we have a few SCUFF marks, (resemble eraser marks) and i can't seem to remove them. Does anyone have any suggestions? I tried the MR CLEAN MAGIC ERASER and had no luck. I have also tried BRUCE's NO WAX FLOOR CLEANER (sold at Home Depot and made fore Pergo adn Allure flooring), again, no luck.
> Does anyone know how to contact HALSTEAD (the manufacturer)?
> I appreciate any insight!
> Thanks
> Kristie


I was recently getting a quote for Allure flooring from Home Depot and the salesman recommended a cleaning product called "Once and Done" which apparently they sell. In fact, he said that was the only product that would be needed.


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## [email protected]

*Any experience with Allure and pet accidents? or an office desk & chair?*

I have *two cats* and am considering using Allure (the tile-look) in the room where the litter boxes are kept. Occasionally my senior kitty misses the box and wets the floor. Does anyone have any experience with this? *Would it damage the appearance of the flooring or seep through the seams? *

Secondly, I have my *desk and rolling chair* in this room. The desk, which contains my computer and a printer, is rather heavy. *How would the Allure stand up to this weight? *And what kind of protection for the rolling wheels would work??? 

Thanks for any advice you can give me. JKM


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## sweepee62

Hello! I joined the group today after searching for "vinyl plank flooring" on line. I have the same issue that you do with cats and an office chair - I will post the results. But I am a little nervous. In another post, someone saw a negative review of the flooring in AARP magazine. It gives off cancer-causing agents during production. And the people who had the mold underneath it are also scaring me. Help!!


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## pam2tom

Do you think this flooring would hold up in a kitchen/eating area with chairs being moved across it on a regular basis. We have the 'magic moving' type pads on the bottom of the chairs, but they still get dirt/sand under them. What do you think?


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## faraway23

TBailey said:


> We just came back from Home Depot and pretty much have decided on the cherry Allure flooring for our LR,DR, foyer and hall. It looks very nice and oddly enough I feel confident that I can do the install. I was wondering if anyone could speak to its ability to withstand dog traffic. We have an 85 lb lab. Thanks for your response.


i got the cherry cause that was only color left and so happy i did its so warm and so not typical flat brownish i love it changed my whole house around that color mix it with expresso brown u can install it my husband is not handy at all i did it without my contact lenses in and it is so easy u just have to decide whether to lay it vertical or horizontal even diagonal would be nice and if u want to stagger the planks so that the pattern alternates good luck its a great choice did not have one come up yet had them for seven months so easy to use have three pets and six kids no damage at all yet only me scraping chair against floor thats a little warning


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## faraway23

*cat allure*

my cat is king i also have dog and six kids no damage at all when installing just take the time to line up seams so there is no space between planks i didnt and it still looks great the dog has accidents all the time on allure and it has not left any damage at all water or plank coming up


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## sharron

*traffic master allure flooring planks*

I have read every comments thanks to you all for sharing your views, but I do have a question that has not been posed. My friend and I plan on installing this flooring before the end of the summer. 
1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right, 
Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.


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## 26yrsinflooring

Traffic master has a *4 mil wearlayer* it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.

On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.

*You will never see these at Home Depot:*

The next line that is availabe is the: *Country Collection from Konecto.*
It has *6 mil wearlayer* and a urethane finish.
I rate this a: *5*

The second line availble: *Sierra Plank from* *Konecto.*
It has a *12 mil wearlayer* and urethane finish.
I give this a:*7*

The best line that is available is: *Prestige Plank from Konecto.*
This has *12 mil wearlayer* and a *Aluminum Oxide finish.*
This gets a Perfect:* 10*

In reply:
1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece. 
*Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.*
*The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you* *are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.*

2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
*A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)*

3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
*You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!*

4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
*A speed square, very handy!*

5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
*Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.*

6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
*Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.*

7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right, 
Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk. 
*Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!*
*Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.*

*I second the Kudos to her!*


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## cabgx2

*Seating Toilet*

I am considering Allure for my bathroom. My question is how to work with the existing toilet. Do I install the Allure around the toliet or remove the toilet and set it back on top of the Allure once installed. Second question: How to you prevent water intrusion around the edges of the flooring?


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## 26yrsinflooring

Remove your toilet for install.

After you reset the toilet caulk around it to prevent intrusion.
While you are setting the shoemold caulk behind it to prevent intrusion.


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## ppassat

*TrafficMaster Allure vinyl wood planks*

Well, after many months of researching flooring, I am going to do the hall, living room,dining room and kitchen. It seems that this product is best so far. My questions are:
1. My subflloor is concrete and I just feel it needs some padding underneath, like should I or can I keep the carpet padding and install this over it? Home Depot says no. I am on the 3rd floor so moisture is not a problem. But the concrete floor is not perfectly smooth.

2. My living room/dining area and kitchen are all open to eachother but I will be going from the concrete flooring to putting this over 40 year old vinyl when I get to the kitchen with a wood 2X4 between the vinyl and concrete. Will this be a problem in heights? I can't remove the vinyl cuz is has asbestos.
3. Home Depot gave me a quick class on Pergo installation in terms of how to set up the planks etc. and measure. Would the directions be the same for this stuff?
4. Are any of you using the 50lb. weight roller after you are done to seal the seams?
ok thats it. I am nervous. Is there a site with easy instrucitons?


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## ppassat

*How to remove carpet tack boards?*

I am getting ready to put down Trafficmaster vinyl floor planks and I got the carpet and padding (horse hair padding!) up and now I have the tack boards that are original to the 40 yr. old bldg. What tool do I use. These babies are splintering and down real good. also, do I need to remove all the staple nails before putting down the vinyl? Floor prep is a chore.
thanks


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## HomeDepot23

Floor prep is a chore!!! But it is essential to getting a job done right. The actual laying of a floor can be a breeze compared to floor prep at times.

When I remove tackless strip, I just use a very heavy metal chisel and a hammer. I hit the strip at the nail until it pops up.

As for the staples, I use a small sharp scraper for small carpet (9/16") or pad (3/8") staples. However sometimes I come across huge staples, over an inch long. For those I use a roofers scraper.

I wouldn't take the chance of leaving them down, as they may telegraph through eventually, especially as 26yr pointed out, there are variations in quality.


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## ppassat

*Use a 50lb roller for Allure vinyl planks?*

thanks Home Depot 23! I have my gorcery list for those tools to remove the tack strips. Yup, the floor prep is tough. What about cracked concrete? do I have to fill that in? Please say no.

Also, I read everybody's comments about the Allure Trafficmaster planks of vinyl but no one mentioned using a weigth roller? Is it not needed?


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## ppassat

*Hey 26floor tiling!*

I noticed that you know alot about Konecto. I was considering this but online had over 100 bad reviews, all stating that the tiles don't stick and come up, even if using a weight roller. What is the significance of 4 or 5 or 8mm? There are few complaints of Trafficmaster. I am ready to buy Allure.


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## 26yrsinflooring

It is the same manufacture; Metroflor, same glue,comes from the same mills.
Konecto just offers the better wearlayer to the retailers, you get what you pay for a the box stores you pay thin you get thin. The reason you see less complaints on line is they complain to the Home Depot not the do-it yourself chat rooms.
The online sales promote the complaints.
It is as I told you all from the start. if the floor is installed improperly it will fail.
Allure has only been out for 1 year give a another few months you will see complaints start coming in from improper installation.

90 % of the complaints I have seen are related to the install:
No acclimation is the big one.
Then is no rolling.
Then is no expansion.
After you dribble out the ones related to improper install the complaint level falls expdentially.

It falls to about 2 %, pretty good I would say.

It is your money you can choose what to buy.

It is common knowledge that the box stores get the left overs.

The wood is seconds unless you special order but if you special order the guy down on the corner can beat the price.
I have sent back pallets of wood from Bruce to Home Depot it was the junk left over, no once not twice more times than I can remember.


The Ceramic tile is thinner. I can take a piece of tile from Daltile as sold to Home Depot or Lowes and lay next to piece I bought at the local Daltile, same product and the one from Home Depot or Lowes is thinner.
Why?
Because you get what you pay for. Daltile was around longer than Home Depot., When the buyers from Depot came to Daltile and said;"We want enough tile for 500 stores and we want it cheap" Daltile said" sure we can do that" and they started to thin the tile out. Thinner tile means less clay, less clay means ungauged tile this mean your grout lines will walk all over the floor due to tile size variance. I have installed tile from Home Depot and Lowes and had over 1/6-1/8 vareince within the same box.
Any other manufactures would replace the tile.

I have had to send pallets back due to this same issue.


This applies to most of what you purchase off the floor at Depot. or Lowes.
I know I worked for Home Depot 3 years. Lowes for 2 years.

As you can tell it left a bad taste in my mouth. 
They have shut down more Mom and Pop shops than we can count,they have allowed a installer base into thier fold with little to no experience.
I know I tried to teach some of them.
They allow installers with less than 6mths experince out on your jobs, the ones you have paid large sums or will be paying for years with finance charges. Installed by rookies.
Think twice when you pass the local retailer that supports the economy you live in.


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## ppassat

*Thank you for your time 26floor!*

You know, that all makes so much sense to me. I do intend to acclimate the product and use a roller. But now I think I will look at the smaller stores. I am renting so I want to do this cheap.....but the floor prep alone is a nightmare, so I might as well look at better quality.

I have some uneven concrete cracks that I need to smooth out. What do I use to do that? Concrete? I hope not cuz concrete looks like it comes in 50lb bags as a minimum.

anyway, thank you for your time and input!


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## HomeDepot23

That is some unbelievable B.S. there 26. Firstly Bruce does not and never has sold Home Depot stores seconds. To make that many seconds would have put them out of business :laughing:

Home Depot mostly special orders their hardwoods and NEVER sell cabin grades or lower grades, even when builders and contractors ask us to.

In stock Bruce was never seconds either. They did once try a peel and stick plank, which must have failed, although the complaints we got were that we had stopped selling it.

Again for tile, Home Depot deals with Dal-Tile and it does not buy anything different from any other retailer. we send customers to Dal, to look at product in their showroom. Sometimes they find a way of buying it direct or through another retailer. It is the same.

The boxes of tile are marked. They have a number on them. Grade 1. Less than honest dealers try to tell their clients that HD's grade 1 means they are crap, that they should be looking at grade 4 or 5. There is no grade 4 or 5 tiles. There is PEI 4 or 5.

Again, Home Depot were accused by contractors of selling seconds. They asked their vendors to mark their boxes grade 1 to prove they were not selling seconds.

Home Depot has special buy tiles. Yes, I am sure these are thinned out and made cheap. But hell, they charge anywhere from .79 cents to $1.10 per sq ft. How good are they going to be? Now, even Home Depot cannot compete with the retail stores who are charging .58 cents to .79 cents. How good are those going to be?

Home Depot, didn't put anybody out of business that didn't deserve it. My store included. Are they perfect? No. I will say if I think something is wrong. I don't like the way they have promoted polyester carpets so much, for example.

As far as the Allure. 26 is right. It is new. I have been in my new position just over a year, and Allure came out in my store less than 6 months before that, so I am sure I will get complaints. (That is my job)  I have had 1 complaint on Allure. It had markings on it, that the customer didn't see before installing, but were on all of the pieces. Halstead replaced the floor with no problem.

My father put in Allure about a year ago. It looks great. My father in laws, so far so good.


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## ppassat

*Floor Prep for vinyl planks*

thanks to these chat rooms, I found out what to use to smooth out my floor. I have this cement patch stuff that I am trying out today. And I am using the big cat claw on that nasty carpet tack! Thank you all!

Now for the vinylplanks battle.....since I am renting and the owner does not know that I am doing this, I feel I want quality but I need cheap as well. Once I removed the carpet and horse hair padding, I know only one thing.....I will never have carpet down again. what a pile of sand under that padding! No wonder I can't breathe.
Anyway, I need about 510 sq. ft. for the hall, living/dining and kitchen. My first choice was this glue down product that was on the floor of California Carpet. It was fab. but it was $6 sq. ft. without installation. I just was not liking the price and the glue thing, the owner would have really gotten upset. then I heard about Konecto. There was only 1 retailer here and it was in a bad section of town, no sign on the door,etc. So I gave up and then read all about the prooblems with it.

Now 13 yrs. ago, I put those cheap Home Depot square tiles in my kitchen and bath in my other apt. and today they are still there, still in great shape, and no problems. I think I paid about $250 for the 2 rooms. My friend lives in that apt today and the crappy tiles are fine.

I have pets and can no longer deal with the pet stains that occure with older pets. I almost did cork planks but again the pet issue and those cork things are $4-$6. But the bigger issue is that you need a saw to istall and the owner would know!

so after much concern, I bought a box of the Allure stuff. I came home and pulled out 2 planks, stuck them togehter and then pulled them apart (with some difficulty) and stuck them back together. I was seeing how hard it was going to be to get that tight seam. so I again pulled them apart, and put it back, this time getting a tighter seam. I then got my hair dryer and that heat helped the plank slide closer. then I noticed that one edge came up. So I got the dryer again, heated it, stuck it back together, and put it on the floor. The edge came up again (now this was AFTER I HAD PULLED THE TILE APART TWICE) so I just pushed it back down. The tile has been on the concrete floor for 2 days and the edge is fine and has remained in place. And this was all done WITHOUT A 100 LB ROLLER.
I can see some patterned imperfections but I don't know if that is part of the pattern or an imperfection. I read on this chat room that it is best when laying this stuff down to rotate planks from several boxes to allow for variation. 
So I think it is vitally important to follow the directions, let the boxes acclimate, get the floor smooth and dust free as glass, use a hair dryer to ease the seam and make it stick, and definitely use a 100lb weight roller!

Most of my local small dealers don't carry any vinyl planks, only that commercial stuff that needs to be glued down. With exception is the one Konecto store that I went to but seemed strange, with no sign on the door, etc. and was closed when he said they were open? I am not open to ordering anything online. Lowes does not carry any vinyl wood planks and in fact, only 1 Home Depot of the 3 within 7 miles of me (now there is the problem and why the little guys are going out, TOO MANY HOME DEPOTS WITHIN MILES OF EACHOTHER). I am proud to say that San Francisco does not have either (but yet there is no land to build one!) Only 1 home depot store carried the Allure Stuff.
So what to do...........


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## 26yrsinflooring

If the locals fail and your only choice is Hdepot, that is were the internet kicks in.

I must say once you introduce the blow dryer to the equasion you loose your acclimation, you have now altered the consistancy of the plank.

This is why these types of floors are failing. If you alter the tempature of the floor when it full cools it will shrink and seperate.


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## ppassat

*New problem with small nails in carpet tack*

I am still at it. The cats claw is perfect and the bigger nails are coming out fine but right before the bigger nails are these much smaller nails. I generally work around them and then try to slowly work them out but the top flat part comes off only, leaving a nail with no head! How do I get them out? since they are closer to the wall , the basebords won't cover them but should I just try to nail them in further? 
Boy, choosing a tile will be a piece of cake compared to removing carpet tack boards. I will hire someone next time to remove the living room carpet and stuff! Live and learn.


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## HomeDepot23

"Denile..... is not just a river in Egypt.

You have bought into the homedepot dogma/propaganda they feed thier people. I understand I almost bought into when I was with em.
I woke up after doing a wood job that we had to cull 1/3 of every box, the Bruce rep came by and looked at the bad wood and told us to install it. 
Then it became clear, you get what you pay for when you deal with Depot.
You first choice stock items are junk wood. junk tile, junk carpet.
I know I installed it all for them.

I wonder how many small business that were put under by Depot disagree with you....I think I am safe in saying there were quite few, quite few families lost all they had .I guess that is okay with you but it is not with me."

I can say the same about you. You have probably bought into the same garbage the "contractors" say. With their stereotyping of "nobody knows about their trade at Home Depot" or "If you were any good, you would be out installing instead of working for nothing at the Depot".

Your wood job sounds terrible, but it was Bruce that told you to carry on, not HD. It doesn't prove that they have intentionally sold seconds. I have installed thousands of square yards of carpet from many sources and some have been of poor quality, but I didn't accuse the buyer of buying seconds.

That brings me to the "junk carpet". The worst carpet we have stocked is well above the weight and class of the retailers I used to compete with. I see the prices that Home Depot pay for the rolls, they are in line with what I would have paid. I have installed the instock carpets and have had no more or less problems than with anyone else's carpet.

Once again. Home Depot never put anyone out of business. They put themselves out of business, myself included, by failing to observe good business practices. They didn't listen to what their customer wanted. They do not open when the customer wants them open, Passat went to a store that claimed to be open, they lost a sale. They didn't keep their customers they did have, happy. The old Home Depot, under it's first CEO's guaranteed satisfaction. In the years from 2001-2007 under the 2nd CEO they lost that creed. It is hurting them now. CEO number 3 is vowing to bring things back they way they were. Who knows. Please don't talk to me about hardships. While my business, with my family was failing. Mine was the takeover of a huge client, and losing it's account, funnily enough using seconds carpet) plus the failure to be open when customers wanted us to be open, my wife's families business had somebody embezzle $100 000.00 quite brilliantly, by becoming a good friend, taking advantage of my wife's difficult pregnancy and finding a loophole in some AppleMacintosh software.

Nobody bailed me out, except for me. I joined Home Depot after doing some installs and 2 other jobs. 

I don't come on here and ask anybody to buy from HD. Nor do I try to say that their products are better than anybody else. In fact the only person 
that I see coming on here trying to get peoples money seems to be you. Good luck.


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## 26yrsinflooring

Uhhh...okay.
I guess we all are blind to your name homedepot23 and I assume that you do not suggest sales at homedepot by using the name
I wonder if home depot knows you are using thier name in your private ventures if you do this without thier permission it is a copyright violation.
If you do it in a professional aspect it is copyright infringment.
Unless you own homedepot.....
The mods should have picked up on that when you signed on. 

I don't want to argue with you. We are all entitled to our opinions, if our opinions are based with facts it gives us creedence.
If not they are just opinions.

All I have discussed with you are facts, I am sure you know your craft I would not want to take anything from you.
As far as the Bruce/Homedepot issue they both told me to install the wood.I refused and walked off the job after I ran out of plank twice due to bad boards it was my last wood job for Homedepot.

So in short they offered bad boards to the customer at full price then followed up with bad boxes twice more. This is not chance, this is a pattern.

A few weeks ago I was approached by the local Bruce rep for a large supplier concering showing it on my site. I told him all the problems I have seen with Bruce wood in the past. He told me I would not encounter those problems because homedepot gets all the junk wood and they have an exclusive on it. He also mention lumber liquidators as a junk wood dealer.

Open your eyes man, it is not rocket science, you get what you pay for.

Good luck with your ventures, our paths will cross again. 

I wish you well, now let us put this thread back on topic eh.


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## ppassat

*Can we all get along and help me with my nails!*

Look Home Depot 23 and 26 flooring, I come on here for info on how to finish up my first difficult job and you 2 banter back and forth between Home Depot and Konecto products! My question was about nails that won't come out cuz the flat top broke off. 

I appreciate opinions about products but I want to hear from people like me who installed the product and how it held up, not from those who sell it.

In the end, Lets face it, the big corporations are putting the little guy out of business! Its not the products, its who has enough money to buy the space, buy the community politics and the larger quantities reduce cost to us. It is the American way that I hate, Starbucks has a place every other block here, and somehow all of us realized we needed to support the small guy so we do. The younger generation likes Starbucks, the older like the locals. 
I need locals to help me with this project. I know that because I am installing this myself that I automatically lose the warranty, no matter if it is LA or local Home Depot. Any company is going to argue with me that I must have done something wrong for the product to fail. But 6 months ago when I went to a home depot to sign up for a FREE CLASS on installing laminate, the older guy who teaches the class said that the next class was in a few months YET he took the time and gave me a 20 minute class and he had all these great pointers that were not in any direcitons that I read.
so because HD went the extra mile, I appreciate it. Yet yesterday I went to another HD and there was no one around to help me and the young people working there were pretty useless. I have yet to find anyone with any knowledge at Lowes, so it is hot and cold and the customer has to decide for themselves who to trust. I know that both places use outside contractors(if you can call them that) to install, and my friends who used Lowes to install carpet had to get it all redone due to poor installation. Same with my other friend who used HD. So that leaves me with little money to spend who can't afford an installer and who feels that IF YOU WANT IT DONE RIGHT, DO IT YOURSELF! I went to a small flooring company in Marin and the guy was great. I wanted to use him becasue he emplys his own installers who work for the company, but I could not afford the cost $4500 to do my job. So that leaves us weekend warriors with HD and Lowes. I have other friends who are very successful with ordering on line (builders direct) but again , shipping fees of $200.

so I am off my soapbox and onto the nail issue.

So lets stop politicking and help me with those darn nails!

I


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## 26yrsinflooring

What is the subfloor wood or concrete?
I assume concrete because the heads pop off.
If so take hammer and hit the nail sideways it will break the nail loose from the concrete. or just beat on until it breaks free.

If you get it loose in the hole you can finish pulling it with some vicegrips.


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## ppassat

*Stubborn nails in concrete*

well floor 26, the subfloor is concrete. I have 15 nails left to chisel out. so it does help if I do as you suggested. On the subborn ones, I just chip away at it until the concrete gives and then it comes out. How do all you people who do this for a living keep your back from hurting? Almost done with clearing this floor for whatever. thanks for the help


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## HomeDepot23

26. I did say earlier .79 cent tile what can you expect? But I have no personal grudge to you. I think you have given good advice on threads I have read.

I assure you that I do not make a red cent off using the HD name on this board or anywhere other than my thin pay packet at work. My user name was something I thought of too hurriedly and do regret it.

Passat. I apologise. I missed that question. I just hit extra nails from side to side until they become loose or pop out. It leaves a smaller hole. Nails that are lower, I do the same but with a hammer and chisel.

You won't lose your warranty, but you are correct, you give the vendor that easy out if they can say you did it wrong.


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## dieselcake

I as a retailer also KNOW FOR A FACT that the bruce wood that HD stocks is a lesser grade. Seconds? I'm not sure. My good friend did alot of their installs for two years and said you would get 3 ft long planks on average and the long ones (if any) were bowed and warped badly

personally as a retailer(small business) I had a Home Depot and a lowes open up within 1 mile from me in the past 5 years and it's done nothing but boost my sales
people want to be helped, the guy in the apron selling nails and hammers last week who is now in the flooring dept isn't going to help much
Just look at Lowes now 
"Pick your color, pick your style, pick your warranty" 
OLOLOLOLOLOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
can't they just come out and say
"we have no idea on how to sell flooring"

Anyone remember when Sears sold and installed flooring????????????

I think 10 years from now we might be saying the same thing about one or both of the big box stores


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## ppassat

*My Installation of Trafficmaster Allure vinyl planks*

Well Home Depot and Floor 26, here it is: I chose the Trafficmaster vinyl wood planks (oak) after much research and ideas from others. Lowes product was awful and the smaller local guys either did not carry anything similar or it was $6 sq.ft for the glue down type. The Konecto brand was at a smaller business but he was not a reliable business (no reflection on Konecto). I was not comfortable with ordering on line and also paying $200 shipping.
so, as a renter, who is not suppose to do any replacement but carpet, and wanting a cheap product, ($1.67 sq.ft.) I decided to start by doing a 30ft. long hallway with a 90degree turn with 16 door frames!
I followed all the directions perfectly and even refrained from using a hairdryer to hasten the process (per floor 26 recommendation).

The glue on these strips is phonomenal. Even after my dog sat on some of the strips and left his fur, they still stick! I can't imagine these strips coming up or loose!

Doing the hall as a first project was a huge mistake because of the door frames that went down to the concrete floor. (I am on a 3rd floor so moisture is not a problem here). My saw couldn't get through the wood to trim the frames 1/8 of an inch so I could slip the planks under. SOOOOOO
I had to make a pattern for each frame and cut it out. Alot of work and frustration cuz I am not a sewer and pattern maker. But that is not an Allure issue. I was able to cut the planks with a garden shears to get the sharp corners. But in general, all you have to do is score the planks and they snap off.

I did have to call the 800 number on the box several times to clarify directions and get help. It seems that the directions on the box are not as detailed as the ones you download. But overall the 800 number service was great to have and they clarified the directions.

while fatigue on my part left some planks with larger seams than I wanted, I think it just makes the floor look more authentic. I love my floor, knowing that it is waterproof, never ever do I have to shampoo that 30ft. hallway. I can't tell you how much it looks like wood and it is quieter than the floating laminate wood floor styles.

The only down side I had with Allure were these:
There needs to be better info on how to lay out the floor. I started as directed but ended up with a 2 1/2 inch strip on the other side of the wall. Now the baseboard will hide some of this but try cutting this 36 inch plank LENGTHWISE! cutting it crosswise (6 inches) is a piece of cake. When I called the company, they said that the design of the plank does not allow it to cut as the same along the length. They gave me some advice to get a bigger and stronger knife. Enter HOME DEPOT! I took a remnant of the plank to Home Depot and explained what I needed to do. The guy saved my life!!!!!!! He went and got a cheaper brand of razor knife and showed me how to do it. Actually, the key is to have a very sharp blade and you have to cut and not score, and you can then snap and tear along the 36 inch length. I just changed my blade every 3 planks!

there is a tremendous amount of waste when doing a narrow space. My hall was 43 inches wide when I did the 90 degree turn. to keep with the grain of the plank, it took 3 planks per row! tons of waste! It is not as they say, like cut one plank in half and use the other half at the end of the row! this hardly ever works because of the design of the glue strips!

But overall, I love the floor. I will now do my living room/kitchen which I figure will take about a day since there are no doors or frames! But.......
I will follow the floor layout differently. I will follow the directions given to me 6 months ago by a Home Depot guy for putting in a laminate floor. He showed how to prevent ever having planks less than 12 inches! But because Allure has those glue strips, things are a bit different and confusing. In fact there is a slight dip in one area of my floor and I know exactly what happened. If you rush and don't pay attention to what you are doing, you can sometimes put a plank down on the concrete rather than on the bordering strip, but after rolling the 100lb weight roller, I see no problem with the tile, it seems stuck for life!

One thing I know for sure, that my installation was surely better than any Lowes or Home Depot installer! They use outside people who I don't think are even certified contractors and there is no way they could have understood the nature of this glue system. I have seen simple carpet installation messed up by both of these companies. As tired as I was and wanting someone to come and finish this job, I knew that I probably knew more than Home Depot installers.

Yes, I do remember Sears and I miss their furniture and flooring service! I need a stackable washer/dryer and I will go nowhere but Sears.

How will this floor be in years to come? Only time will tell. If the owner of the bldg is upset? Its floating so up it comes! For $1.67 sq.ft. I just think it was the best product for me who wanted a cheap wood look that was waterproof. 

thank you all for your input and ideas. The floor prep is key and probably the hardest thing, removing 40year old carpet tack boards! Could not have done that without your ideas of hitting the nails sideways!


----------



## HomeDepot23

I'm glad it worked out for you. The nail removal is fun. Not.

I also had trouble with cutting on the width and I had to do my start row and end row, go down hallways into dining room. I had a lot of side cuts. I think I mentioned it my inital post back on post 36 I think it was.

My wife just got us a stackable washer/dryer combo. We shopped around and I just said get what you want, but try to keep under $1300.

Sears were terrible. The salesman had no clue what he was talking about, he had to get the stock boy to do the computer system. We eventually gave up. It was a shame because we last purchased a cheap Kenmore set in 1987 and it had lasted so well.

Home Depot actually had the best deal for us, Lowes had the best deal for my in-laws a month later.

As much as the appliance people ***** about G.E delivery, we have now had 2 deliveries from them and both were great.

The guy said that we would be surveyed and he asked us to either give him a 10 or let them know what he needed to do to get a 10.


----------



## sharron

Thank you very much for your reply to my uncertainty about this flooring although it would not be my choice my friend decided to put it in her house, the plank 6inch strips living/dining hallway and the tiles kitchen. Not as hard as I thought it would but measuring is the key, before laying it especially when you look down the hallway leading to the living room. It was easy except for the cutting, bought a high end knife with tons of blades and I think that was the hardest part around stairs, door frames,etc. The tiling though is another story allot of waste since it comes in 3tiles together, and if you only need a wee bit the tile is pretty much garbage after that, unless you put it in a not so used cloest where it won't be noticable. If they come out with the same tiles but you can buy a box of singles this would eliminate allot of waste. When my friend had a big box store come over for a quote, this is what they said, You will need a sub floor put in, new quarter round, 45.00 each to move appliances (fridge & stove I kid you not 5 feet from the kitchen to the hallway, and they are on rollers), they said this does not includeany other movement of furniture my friend would have to get someone to help her move it. After it was all said and done labour flooring sub floor $3,600.00. was the final estimate. 
We did it over the course of a weeekend paying attention to every detail, being careful to pull up the quarter round to be able to reinstall it, buying knee pads cause you will need them unless you have knees of steel, new thresholds, the whole thing $800.00. As well as the instructions read you do not need a new sub floor but they insisted they would not do it unless my friend had the sub floor installed. See how being a bit of a diyer, doing research and not being intimidated to ask for help pays off. I appreciated everyone advise and help.
P.S. I don't know about the U.S. but if you look on Home Depots sight they had a $100.00 gift certificate for vinyl flooring, which my friend download and sent off with a copy of her receipt and UPC's. So $800.00 paid and $100.00 towards another DIYer job not too shabby I would say.
Thank You


----------



## ashley1226

26yrsinflooring said:


> Traffic master has a *4 mil wearlayer* it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.
> 
> On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.
> 
> *You will never see these at Home Depot:*
> 
> The next line that is availabe is the: *Country Collection from Konecto.*
> It has *6 mil wearlayer* and a urethane finish.
> I rate this a: *5*
> 
> The second line availble: *Sierra Plank from* *Konecto.*
> It has a *12 mil wearlayer* and urethane finish.
> I give this a:*7*
> 
> The best line that is available is: *Prestige Plank from Konecto.*
> This has *12 mil wearlayer* and a *Aluminum Oxide finish.*
> This gets a Perfect:* 10*
> 
> In reply:
> 1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
> *Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.*
> *The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you* *are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.*
> 
> 2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
> *A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)*
> 
> 3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
> *You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!*
> 
> 4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
> *A speed square, very handy!*
> 
> 5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
> *Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.*
> 
> 6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
> *Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.*
> 
> 7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
> I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
> Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
> *Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!*
> *Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.*
> 
> *I second the Kudos to her!*


 
I cannot send a personal message as I have posted 20 times yet (I am new to this). I am considering purchasing allure since the konecto sierra Laporta that I want is kinda expensive. I have 1200 sq ft to floor. I got a quote from my local Carpet One but I have had several complaints from friends about installation and service and am kinda leary about using them. Please email me as I may never find my way back here


----------



## lollygirl732

*Just a Word on Maintainance*

I've just installed TrafficMaster Allure Cherry Plank flooring in my kitchen, diningroom, livingroom and hall. It looks fantastic. I've gotten so many compliments on it! It feels great underfoot. Of course the dogs are having trouble adjusting to the lack of traction(we took up their carpet), they can no longer stop on a dime and there are no more sharp turns. But they're fun to watch!!!!
I bought a Shark Deluxe Steam Mop, because I wanted to be able to clean the floor without using chemicals that wouldn't harm my dogs. I couldn't find any information online, so I called Halstead New England (203-299-3100) and they said that although they recommend heat to reseal any lifting seams/corners, that the steam MAY compromise the adhesive with long term use.
By the way, the Swiffer Wet Jet solution is very harmful for your pets. 
Just thought you may want to know.:thumbup:


----------



## ashley1226

Thanks- I do have one dog but I try to keep her outside most of the time since she chews everything in sight. Thanks for the advice but I think I have given up on the vinyl planks altogether. I am getting a quote from the tile guy tomorrow.


----------



## dieselcake

Stay away from any Konecto over ANY type of concrete flooring

Many,many threads on how these floors are failing

I have had the same floor fail twice already, and the sample board says"great for high moisture areas like basements.


----------



## floorgal

*my thoughts on allure*

i have been selling flooring products for over 16 years and have professionally installed for 7 years. yes, i do work at THD. but this is in no way meant to plug my company. First off, Trafficmaster Allure flooring is and has been the best selling flooring product in our store for more than nine months running now. As for the durability of this product, i have had numerous (almost daily) comments from DIYers and contractors on Allure. we have sold this product in our store for 1 1/2 yrs now and have had only three complaints- two was due to improper acclimation of the product and one was put done over concrete which showed signs of hydrostatic pressure (moisture weeping up). I have seen numerous concerns listed here and i will try to address them individually:
1. Sub-floor prep: hardly any is required. surfaces must be smooth and dry. if putting over bare concrete first do a moisture test- place a 2' x2' 6mil plastic over concrete and tape down around all edges. leave for a minimum of 72 hours. if condensation is present, you must seal your concrete. fill any voids or pits in the subfloor. if it is unlevel, try to level it within 1/8". this is a vinyl plank that will conform to uneven areas but for asthetics, it is best to level the floor. 
2. laying the planks: YOU MUST ACCLIMATE THE PLANKS. this means you cannot buy them and install in the same day. you must take them home and put them in the room which they are to be installed for at least two days (48 hrs). TIP: if you are planning on installing this in rooms that are not or may not be at times climate controlled ( i.e. vacation homes, vacant rentals, etc) i do not suggest that you install this flooring as with extreme temperature changes ( no heat in the winter and no air in the summer) the glue on this product may fail causing the planks to separate. start your planks up against the wall. your very first row you should remove the glue strip from the underside (to understand this concept this is a floating floor hence, you don't want anything sticking to the subfloor) if you are not going wall to wall then it is ok to use double sided tape on the underside of the first row only. this is just to keep it straight as you are laying it. from your second row and throughout the whole area, you must stagger each plank a min of 8-12". this is so that the end joints are stronger and creates a better look. lay the flooring from left to right. you can use the cutoff pieces from the end (right) wall as long as they are at least 8-12" long. cutting them is a snap (literally). just score the topside using a straight edge and a SHARP utility knife. then snap the plank at the score line. it is best to roll the edges as you are installing this. you can use a kitchen rolling pin but i do strongly advise that you rent a flooring roller (70-100 lbs) after completing your install. also, leave a small gap around the perimeter of your floor where it meets up with any vertical surfaces such as walls or cabinets. baseboard or quater round will cover this nicely. 3. pets: this product will sustain most pets. if you have very large animals, just keep their claws trimmed. as for pet accidents- as long as the planks are installed tightly, you should not have a problem with staining or odor. 4. furniture: use felt pads, furniture coasters, etc. this is a vinyl floor which is not impervious to scratches or tears. i have even had one customer ( who is changing out all 26 of his rental properties with this product) tell me that he had placed a heavy chest freezer on this and after two days of removing the freezer, the indentions left by the feet came out! can't say that for all applications tho. 
5. if putting down in water prone areas such as bathrooms, laundry rooms and kitchens- place a bead of silicone around the perimeter under the baseboards. this will help insure any standing water that may occur from toilets overflowing or busted pipes, etc. from penetrating under the flooring trapping the moisture and creating mold problems. 

The great thing about this flooring is that it is very easy to install ( just ask the 82 yr old woman) it is completely water tight (when sealed around the perimeter with silicone) and very durable- can withstand most of todays active families- just don't let them walk around with cleats on or heelies as one person posted. but generally, for the price, the ease of installation and the look and feel, and the durabiltiy- this may be one of the best home improvements you can do by yourself!

sorry this was so long. thanks for reading. enjoy!


----------



## 26yrsinflooring

*Let me explain how Allure came* *about.*

When Konecto hit the market they were selling at such a fast pace HD wanted a piece of the action.
They went to Metroflor and requested a private label. This private label falls under the manufacture name of Halstead.

*Metroflor said sure we will sell to you but we must protect our flooring distributors base as well so we will thin out our wearlayer for you guys.*

The took a 6 mil product and skimmed it down to a 4 mil this is the typical MO of Home Depot, sure the price is less because there is less product there, you are getting what you pay for.

Then they gave Home depot a choice from 5 colors, the flooring distributors got the rest.
They flooring distributors were disallowed from selling the Allure and HD was disallowed from selling the prime lines of Konecto.

While HD is selling in large quanities the flooring distributors are far and above them in yearly sales this is why Metroflor protects them.

Metrflor had issue with 3 containers in 2007, they replaced all the offended clientels projects. If someone had floor from that time frrane that failed it is quite possble Metroflor does not know about or they have refunded the retailer and the retailer has not followed up with the client.

I started in the this trade as an installer at the tender age of 15 I was big for my size so I fit in well.I quit school and worked for my dads flooring business for years.
When I got out on my own I say many retailers lying cheating and stealing from customers on a daily basis.I was appalled to say the least.
Many times they would tell me to lie to the customer,I was not used this this and went against my very grain,I did not do well getting along with them.

*I could supply a list of impropriaties I was ask to do while working for Home Depot but what would it gain.*
*I left Home Depot and went to Lowes and found the same suggested indescretions, I trust non of them, but I would rather shop at Depot than Lowes for my basic remodel needs. *

_I found that my Dad was the most honest man I knew and that he had been telling telling the truth to clients if it took the skin off his back.That is perhaps why he stayed so small._

*Metroflor has released a new line tile that is of top-grade quailty with a 4 mil wearlayer. The name of it is Homescapes.*

They have two more lines coming out that will never be seen in any box store. One is called Patina and the other is yet to be named publicly but is for highend commercial applications.


----------



## p.b.

Can anyone comment on the odor after installation? I have 4 pieces in my kitchen right now as samples, and I can smell them very strongly. Does this fade quickly?


----------



## laxmom

*Allure for basement application*

I've read all the posts about the Allure flooring. I would like to try it in my basement. My house is over 120 years old. My basement floor is concrete, but it's not in good shape and it's not level. 

I am considering using a floor leveler product before installing, so my questions are:

Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on the type of leveller to use?
and
What do you use to fill in the pits? 
and
What do I do if it's just not that smooth, or not that level?

Should I really be putting down something else? Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## mike costello

"They didn't listen to what their customer wanted."

Now thats funny right there. Your telling me other than the initial marketing research HD still practices this?

I had a HD workroom for 2 yrs..ahh no they dont.


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## wdjohnson

The smell may very well be your septic or sewer, floor heat dries out the traps in floor drains, causing sewer gas to be allowed into your home, did you cover a floor drain when you put down your flooring? Try pouring a large glass of water down all of the drains in the area of the floor every day for a week, if the smell goes away , it is probably your floor drains, not your floor.


----------



## Cporter58

*Allure and Underlayment HELP!*

My husband and I installed Allure Trafficmaster , (the tile pattern) in a 280 sf area in our basement. It was relatively easy, lucked out that our walls are nice and square, and we love how it looks! 

Now comes the problem. Even tho we have a dry basement, (did the moisture test on the concrete beforehand), we decided to lay a 6mm plastic underlayment. It's the kind that has an adhesive strip so you don't have to tape. The underlayment directions say to leave at least an 8 inch overlap between pieces. However, the strip was a little wavy and there were some wrinkles after we layed it down, and then we installed the flooring. So now....you guessed it...everywhere over the overlapped/wavy areas of the underlayment, the floor rides that wave! Not visably noticeable but when you walk on those areas, it sounds like the floor is installed over bubble-wrap!!! 

I'm so mad that we didn't take the time to make sure the underlayments was as flat as possible. My husband, (becasue this is now all HIS fault ), said not to worry as eventually the floor will flatten. I'm not so sure. I don't think the weight of the flooring is going to compress those areas and I'm doomed to walk on the bubble-wrap floors for the rest of my days and my husband, (did I mention this is all his fault?), has been relegated to the dog house. 

Apart from ripping up the areas, (because...of course...they're in the middle of the floor), what can we do? Will it eventually flatten? Is there a way to remove just the tiles, (these are the 36 x 12 inch) over the offending areas and fix the underlament? Can we pull out the underlayment like a giant tablecloth, without disturbing the floor? 

Help!


----------



## nlwrnc

*our experience with Allure Vinyl Flooring*

We installed this product in our kitchen several months ago. We found it to be an extremely easy product to work with, in spite of the need to get things properly aligned before setting the tiles in place. The flanges of each piece have a sort of contact adhesive on them--it's only slightly tacky to the touch, but once you join the sections together they stay put. 

The real wonder of it was how beautiful it looked once it was in place, and how nicely it floated over our old tile flooring. We completed an 18' x 14' room in a single afternoon. I couldn't be happier. 

It seems to be particularly well suited to areas where the floors are not suitable for plank-type laminates or other products. We followed the manufacturer instructions and rented a 100# roller to fully seal all of the seams. We have had no problems with moisture seeping under it at all.

I would recommend this type of flooring to DIY-ers who are on a tight budget. The finished floor looks professional and pristine. :thumbsup:


----------



## dgates

*vinyl basement flooring*

We have a basement floor in a vacation home that currently has vinyl covering in good condition. We'd considered several products (Allure, laminate, etc.) but seem to all have a draw back of some kind. Since this space is not kept heated in the winter all the time, apparently the Allure won't be advisable. Can anyone give advice as to a good product that can be put over the current roll vinyl and not be affected by the temps dipping to maybe 40 in winter? We have no moisture problem and keep a dehumidifier running year round. Thanks for any good advice!


----------



## hardwarejunkie

*Don't Buy Traffic Master Allure Flooring*

I bought almost $500 of this garbage for my laundry room. After about 3 months, the edges started curling as the adhesive let loose. Now I have to rip it up and pay to put it in the landfill. What a disappointment. The stuff looked great at first. All that hard work was a waste of time and money. I guess I should have known that stuff made in China is junk.....in this case, expensive junk.


----------



## Tim-Taylor

Could you share the address of the forum site you spoke of? I have 29 boxes in my garage. I just want a little more info on putting it down, Thanks.


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## annie68164

*I just installed it*

I did the Trafficmaster Allure in Country Pine and love it! It's in the kitchen. It amazing how it doesn't show dirt, lint etc. It was very easy to install. I did it myself in about 10 hours (big kitchen) The only thing I must warn you is that anything that rubs acrosss it will leave a mark. You won't see it except at an angle in the daylight but it's like clear shiny marks and it's unavoidable from what I can tell. I put felt pads on my chairs/table and they still leave the marks. They aren't real bad and eventually the whole floor will have them so it'll "even out" I guess. It was a huge improvement to our kitchen! I'll re-post if I have problems with the glue strips but none thus far and I didn't rent a roller.


----------



## bahabamaine

Hi,
By any chance do you have a flooring recommendation for a seasonal cottage that has below freezing temps in the winter and warm and muggy in summer as well as ocean breezes? I was looking at the vinyl planks and I guess that isn't the way to go due to temp fluctuations. Any other suggestions?
Thanks very much.


----------



## centralflooringsupplies

Hi. I distribute the UK version of Allure. Its a great product. The stick strips are able to pull up and restick about 6 times. The trick is not to get any dust on the stick strips. We have fitted this many many times with no complaints to date. Its a great DIY product and very easy to fit. if the end do start to lift just push back down and put something heavy on them. its a pressure sensitive adhesive so the more pressure applied over time the stronger the adhesive bond becomes. Hope this helps.


----------



## bahabamaine

Hi,
Thank you so much for the information. Will now reconsider the flooring. Using weight to restick the product makes sense. It seems to be a durable product.


----------



## Davelrar

*To Argy 78*

We have RV'd full time for 7 years, traveling in a 99 American Tradition. After purchase, we removed the carpet and replaced with Pergo laminate flooring and have had no problems after 6 years of service. We recently purchased a home and remodeled, utilizing the Trafficmaster Allure. Had this product been available then, I would have used it instead. You will have no problems in a Travel Trailer.


----------



## kohmagno

*the best way to start allure flooring*

While many of the posts provide great reading, I don't have time to read through 90+ posts. Could some one tell me which direction to lay the Allure? I have 3 areas: hallway, bathroom and dining room. The B & the H are longer then wider; the DR is 11x13.

I have the skinnier plank for the B, and the H and DR get the 12x36 tile look.

Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## 26yrsinflooring

The most common method is run it with the length of the hall.


----------



## Sarj

*Allure Flooring*

Please let me know how should I lay the Allure vinyl panels (6feet x 6 inches) on a floor which is 9 feet- 6 inches wide so that waste is minimum.

I want to lay this flooring in my basement which is 800 sq. feet.

Sarj


----------



## JoeClark

I just got some of this for my kitchen floor and I'm just wondering one thing.

Some of the linoleum is peeled up on the existing floor. Do I have to remove all the rest of the old stuff or can I just go over it? I am worried that you will be able to feel the transition on the new floor.


----------



## Floorwizard

Should be able to go over the top.
It may be needed to float out the holes from cutting back-


----------



## Floorwizard

Lay it the direction of the longest wall.
should help with waste..
not alot I imagine.


----------



## JoeClark

FYI... here is a pic to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with.


----------



## Floorwizard

Only if every question came with a pic!

No need to float that out.
Lay over the top and color it done!


----------



## JoeClark

Awesome, thanks for the input!


----------



## 26yrsinflooring

Allure is Konecto.... They sell it under the label Halsted.
It has 4 mil wearlayer so it is the bottom of the barrel, I can rip the wearlayer with my hands.I keep a piece of it in my desk to show why the upgrade lines of Konecto are such better quality. 
It is all in the wearlayer. Konecto's wearlayer cannot be ripped with your bare hands, high heels,dognails etc.... 
The design series is sold only to the wholesalers and retailers it will never be available at HD.
People do not realize when they shop at HD or Lowes they get what they pay for.... cheap product.
These mills do not make them better deals, they thin the product out, sure it sounds like a good deal, not as good as you think.

Just like hardwood: I installed for both Lowes and HD in my career as an installer and many times the wood I installed was subgrade seconds sold at what seemed like good prices but you could have gotten the same quality wood at a trash wood outlet like Lumber Liquidators much cheaper.
I have first hand knowledge that HD intentionally got all the culled cabin grade wood from Bruce and they sold it as first quality store stock instead of the seconds it was. I heard it from thier own mill reps.

Let me tell you what else the box stores do. They get small companies with great products, then get them to sign contracts that they will not sell to other retailers. One day some big shot in the company decides to get it knocked off cheaper and private label it or even worse they discontinue it ... now that small company that had all its eggs in one basket is out of business. Ate up by greed that is supported by the masses.
The box stores have run many small lumber yards out of business and brought more chinese wood to our shores than should ever be here.

The EPA was raised so many restrictions on our plants it is cheaper for them to move production to China than to take the chance some rouge EPA agent will shut them down.

This is why Konecto cannot be made in America thank your local goverment and the EPA


----------



## JoeClark

It does have a 25 year warranty, which is about 20 years longer than I plan on living in this house.

So, as long as it looks good for a few years, that's all I care about.


----------



## Floorwizard

> I can rip the wearlayer with my hands


Well, stop doing that! 



> The box stores have run many small lumber yards out of business and brought more chinese wood to our shores than should ever be here.


Lumber yards fault.....
It's easy to compete with the big box stores...any lumber yard that goes out of business did not adapt-



> They get small companies with great products, then get them to sign contracts that they will not sell to other retailers.


Which is a good thing because.....



> The design series is sold only to the wholesalers and retailers it will never be available at HD.


And that's why it's easy to compete with the big box stores


----------



## 26yrsinflooring

I agree and disagree.....


----------



## Floorwizard

Let me know if you feel like elaborating on this.
The sales section is a good place to post a new thread.


----------



## glennb

26yrsinflooring said:


> Traffic master has a *4 mil wearlayer* it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.
> 
> On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.
> 
> *You will never see these at Home Depot:*
> 
> The next line that is availabe is the: *Country Collection from Konecto.*
> It has *6 mil wearlayer* and a urethane finish.
> I rate this a: *5*
> 
> The second line availble: *Sierra Plank from* *Konecto.*
> It has a *12 mil wearlayer* and urethane finish.
> I give this a:*7*
> 
> The best line that is available is: *Prestige Plank from Konecto.*
> This has *12 mil wearlayer* and a *Aluminum Oxide finish.*
> This gets a Perfect:* 10*
> 
> In reply:
> 1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
> *Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.*
> *The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you* *are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.*
> 
> 2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
> *A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)*
> 
> 3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
> *You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!*
> 
> 4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
> *A speed square, very handy!*
> 
> 5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
> *Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.*
> 
> 6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
> *Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.*
> 
> 7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
> I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
> Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
> *Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!*
> *Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.*
> 
> *I second the Kudos to her!*


I am new to this forum and appreciate the depth and detail of your answers.

We are considering Allure in a manufactured home we bought that has flooring challenges.

In the kitchen, they had very cheap linoleum with numerous tears/flaws. We pulled it up and have been walking on the subflooring until we had the funds to put down something better. The living room has cheap carpeting also in need of replacement. These two rooms run together, so we will probably put the same flooring over the entire area to have a consistent look.

We had a flooring place come out for an estimate, and it ended up about $6.85/sq. ft. for a laminate that supposedly was about $2.64/sq. ft. --- way out of budget. This price DID NOT include any change to the subflooring which they said needed to be replaced in its entirety.

Granted, the sub-flooring is cheap particle board, but the linoleum we removed seemed to work okay on it (the damage was from lack of care... tearing, etc). It has a good bit of texture on the surface and is not as flat as a sheet of plywood is, but it still seems drastic to have to replace it. Will Allure or laminates work okay installed over top of the existing sub-floor without the need to replace it? If this sub-floor does need some preparation, isn't there a cheaper alternative than replacement? If so, what would an experienced floor person recommend?

I would appreciate the opinions of those of you who know flooring... I'm dangerous with a hammer and a screw driver and am not Mr. Fix-It by any means, but cost and necessity require doing this job as economically as possible.

I tried doing a private message, but because I didn't have 20 postings on this forum it wasn't allowed.


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## 26yrsinflooring

Can you post some pictures ?
It greatly help us the see the flooring issues.


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## smartolgal

*Trafficmaster Allure*

:thumbup: We recently installed Trafficmaster Allure in a fix and flip investment property...I think it had a lot to do with it selling in less than 2 weeks and certainly had a lot to with our getting a profit. 
On the plank flooring I got varnish stripper on four different planks of the hickory and did not notice it until after a little while it ate through the top layer and left big white spots. We removed 4 planks very carefully and were able to get the adhesive apart without damage and replace it with new planks. I would HIGHLY recommend it for rentals over sheet vinyl where you have to replace the whole room for one spot!
We had been going to have tile layed but cut that and saved a lot of money. It looked awesome in the bathrooms (dark tile type) but the kitchen (dark hickory) looked great was almost impossible to keep the dusty footprints off of. EASY to install!


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## zcat

*Traffic Master Allure*

The Aug 2008 post by floorgal has a caution about homes with large temp swings, as the glue could fail. Even small temp swings might also cause failure. I installed 25 boxes of Allure in a foyer, family room, kitchen and small half bath in a home we were remodeling for sale. Before installing, I called Halstead to ask if there were any restrictions on how long a floor cold be-they said no. I called twice to be sure. I spread the boxes out in the various rooms and let them acclimate for a week. It took about 20 hours total to get it all down over three days due to lots of wall protrusions, closets, etc. I found the installation though to be a real breeze. I would never be able to get such a fine fit with sheet vinyl due to all the wall changes. I used a 100lb roller after every days work, rolling in each direction. The finished flooring was just beautiful-I could not belive how good it looked. There were no gaps between the planks. I've never seen a vinyl floor that looked so good-and I'd bet very few laminate floors could beat it-and Allure is fine for kitchens and baths. Couple months later the problems started. Outside temps changed from the 90's to the 70's. The floor I installed the Allure on is over a full unheated basement. The temp in the basement likely dropped 5 degrees, and the temp in the empty house likely dropped from the high 70's to the low 70's. Large gaps started opening up in planks near the 5 ft entryway from the foyer to the family room. Amazingly, smaller gaps starting opening up in several random locations-some between individual planks only 12-18 inches from the walls!! This in rooms with NO furniture as the home was vacant. Halstead send a tech out to review the floor. He concluded many of the planks had failed do to some kind of manufacturing defect, and verified the installation was done exactly right. He did some precise measurements and found some planks had actually shrunk while the adjacent planks did not. In two locations, the width of a plank actually shrank a little, but the plank it butted against did not, which left a small but noticable difference. Clearly, the glue did not have the strength to keep the entire floor as "one piece" as contraction occured due to temp drop of a few degrees. Halstead, thru Home Depot, refunded the entire amount I spent, but of course not the cost of labor. Now that the outside temps have dropped into the teens at night, the basement is likely 10-15 degrees cooler that the summer temps when I installed the floor. The gaps in the entryway between the foyer and family room are very large-like 3/16 inches. UGH!!! Since the home will likely still be vacant next spring due to housing recession, I might be able to salvage the thing by putting an expansion joint between the foyer and family room after the floor expands again w/higher outside temp, and re-rolling the floor. If I was convinced the lot I bought was defective, I'd put it on our residence in a heartbeat-which I was planning to do. But then, my home has a crawl space under the floor which will have a 10-20 degree temp spread between summer and winter.


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## k9feces

This floor seems to be hit or miss, for me it was a hit. I installed it in September, last week I lost power for 36 hours, the inside temp was 37 degrees and the floor didn't seem to contract or expand at all.

Maybe because it is over concrete the floor temp stays consistant or changes slowly? 

The reason I used this flooring is because the concrete floor in my breezeway was too uneven for any laminate. If I had a choice I would have gone with laminate, even the cheaper stuff seems to last.


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## DJNuckinfutz

*Take your time and do your prep work*

My wife and I just installed this product 3 days ago. I took extra time to prep the room to make it easier to install. I first took a blow dryer to the "ruts" in the vinyl caused by the weight of the fridge. (The hair dryer WILL BE your BEST FRIEND on this project). They will shrink out from the heat. Then after I removed the baseboards, I Used a hand saw that had a flat blade flush to the floor and I cut the bottom part of the door jambs so I could just slide it under them for a nice fit with NO difficult cutting or shaping. I also cut a section of the baseboard that transitioned into the next room that was to stay carpeted. Next I took a little time to study the room layout so I knew exactly where I would end and how each piece was related to the next. This is crucial because you don't want to get all the way to the end only to find out you should have done something different! Also make sure you have a good sharp blade in your cutter and change the blade out a few times to make your cuts easier. As you lay them out make sure the corner of the "tile" goes into the corner of the piece laid down and then the short edge should butt up. As you lay the length down try to get it a little tight so you have to use your other thump to lay the meeting edges down and there is no gap between the pieces on either side. If you lay it down and there is a gap or they don't meet right then just use your hair dryer to heat up the joints and slowly separate them. Then you can relay it. You can also heat up the joints and "slide" the pieces together tighter. Measure often and make sure you put ALL of your cut edges to the wall! I would measure and lay my first piece in each row, then measure the remaining distance to the wall so I knew exactly how long to cut each row and each piece. It took longer to lay this floor than we'd expected, but as I said, we did a bit of prep work and took our time to do it right. We actually came up a box over what we thought we'd need because we watched our cuts and measurements closely. And I would highly recommend you invest in a few things for this job:
1. A flush saw to cut your door jambs
2. A good razor knife/cutter with extra blades (titanium stay sharper lon
ger)
3. A carpenter's "T" or square (preferably 2 ft for cutting length)
4. A tape measure and pencil not pen
5. KNEE PADS! Trust me!:yes:


It took my wife and I 10-12 hours total from prep-in' to step-in' on the floor. I love the floors, and highly recommend them to anybody! I look forward to years of use.
Oh, and by the way... The instructions for these floors were tucking nicely in the box....UNDER THE PRODUCT!:furious: And since I pulled from several boxes at once to avoid any variations in color between boxes, I didn't find them until the floor was already HALF WAY DOWN!!!
Good Luck and "good job"!


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## JackofallMasterofnone

*Allure as new floor*

This has been a great thread.

We are converting our carport into a bedroom/sitting room for my father-in-law. Can we put this directly on the wooden sub-floor? Do we need any type of underlayment? We are raising the floor to equal the rest of the house, so no concrete is involved.

Thanks!


----------



## 26yrsinflooring

No underlayment is required for any Konecto product.
There many suppliers trying to sell it as if you need and they have fooled many people and made a lot of money off it.
Konecto developed the product only for a sound abatement barrier in upstairs apartments as this was required by code in most states.

I have a letter from Konecto that suggest the optimum install is directly over the given substrate without and sub barrier. 

We leave the choice to the customer.With the money they save on underlayment that is not required they can upgrade the flooring to the better quality.
The allure is the bottom of the barrel with a 4 mil wearlayer the better options you will only find at places other than the box stores.


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## jennydavis

*Konecto Grief*



> And I would highly recommend you invest in a few things for this job:
> 1. A flush saw to cut your door jambs
> 2. A good razor knife/cutter with extra blades (titanium stay sharper lon
> ger)
> 3. A carpenter's "T" or square (preferably 2 ft for cutting length)
> 4. A tape measure and pencil not pen
> 5. KNEE PADS! Trust me!:yes:
> 
> It took my wife and I 10-12 hours total from prep-in' to step-in' on the floor. I love the floors, and highly recommend them to anybody! I look forward to years of use.
> Oh, and by the way... The instructions for these floors were tucking nicely in the box....UNDER THE PRODUCT!:furious: And since I pulled from several boxes at once to avoid any variations in color between boxes, I didn't find them until the floor was already HALF WAY DOWN!!!
> Good Luck and "good job"!


[/QUOTE]

Good Luck on the floor staying nice. I am glad it seems to be working so far. 

What I find very frustrating is that this person used a product that is not supposed to be the quality of the Konecto. We even bought the middle of the road Konecto to have the "quality". We did more than this person to install and ours is still failing. This person does not mention the use of a hand roller or 100 pound roller and we did use those plus many other additional steps. Quite obvious ours is "AN ADHESIVE ISSUE"!!
:furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious:


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## covelle

so how's it hold up to a big dog?? Mine is 120lbs. I am looking to cover a badly damaged wood floor, thanks puppy, with something that won't change the height too much at the stair case. don't want to rip out the wood floor because someone else without the big dog might like to refinish the original floor (1933)

Anyone?


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## DJNuckinfutz

I Think it could hold its own with a big dog. We moved the fridge and stove across it, and it has a slight shinny spot where they slid across the flooring, but you can only see it in the light. The cool thing about this flooring is that if it does get badly damaged, you can just pull out your handy hair dryer and heat up the seams to pull out the damaged section and replace it (keep the extra for future use/repairs). It is a vinyl product, so it is pretty darn "resilient" (as they call it.) You might want to talk to your vet about keeping your dogs nails trimmed back as much as possible to avoid damage to the flooring in your home. Good luck!


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## DJNuckinfutz

They do say that you can use a roller to help they joints adhere, but for most residential installs just walking the floor may be enough. I am not familiar with "konecto" flooring, but I can say that if there is any moisture coming through the sub floor at all, it will cause issues with these floors as they do not require moisture barriers due to the fact that they ARE moisture barriers. I read a comment on here about the seams coming apart and when they removed the floor they had mold under it. I am pretty sure the product didn't introduce the moisture into the floor of the basement room they installed it in, it probably just trapped it as it is claimed to be "waterproof". Also installing in summer may be a better direction to go in as the heat will help lock these seams together. The adhesive on this product will soften when heat is applied, so make sure the seams are tight and the weather is right and it should be ok. It expands and contracts like any other material exposed to temperature changes, so take that into consideration when installing it, and make sure you have a 1/8th inch gap all the way around to allow for expansion.


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## Crazyjay

*Trafficmaster Allure Flooring - underlay??*

Hey there - Great thread! I'm going to install this stuff in my rec room this week but am wondering about 1 thing....underlay. I know they say you don't need it but if I prefer to use it will I be fine? I just feel the floor will have a softer feel with some laminate padding. Any thoughts?

peace out!


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## k9feces

I wouldn't use underlayment, the floor is soft enough on top of concrete, on plywood subfloor it feels even softer.


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## annie68164

*Covelle we have a big dog with LONG nails*

and there are zero scratches from her. She's old and hates getting her nails trimmed so they are just awful. She has taken off on the floor too but I have to admit she's pretty low key as far as running on it. So if your dog is young and likes to blast off I don't know if the floor could suffer scratches- I doubt it. We have the Trafficmaster Allure in our kitchen (country pine style) and so far we love it. No problems with the glue strips. We've had it now for about 3 months. There are a ton of those "clear" scuffs all over- especially where we pushed the stove and fridge back over it after installation. I would use several layers of felt or something under those items before sliding them back if you can. You just see them in daylight as someone else mentioned. I use Swiffer to clean it and that seems to dull the scuffs alittle.


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## onenailer

mngal said:


> Just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to Halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid MOLD growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! you have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!


before I use this product I'd love to see your photo's


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## annie68164

*Crazyjay- i would try a small section of underlayment-*

first. it could make the flooring too soft therefore cancelling out the "hardwood" experience.


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## EXFFPM

*Trafficmaster Allure bathtub seam?*

I am considering installing Trafficmaster Allure tile pattern in my bathroom and have a question regarding how to keep the seam where the material meets the front face of the bathtub "tight". I understand that proper installation requires the specified gap around the perimeter of the room between the material and the wall for expansion and contraction, but is it possible/advisable to secure the material to the underlayment along the length of the seam in front of the tub? I normally seal that area with silicone after installing vinyl flooring, but am I destined to have a 1/8" to 3/8" gap filled with silicone in the most obvious location of the installation? Thanks for all the great info so far!


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## The DO-ER

*Cleaning product to end all cleaning products!*



lollygirl732 said:


> I've just installed TrafficMaster Allure Cherry Plank flooring in my kitchen, diningroom, livingroom and hall. It looks fantastic. I've gotten so many compliments on it! It feels great underfoot. Of course the dogs are having trouble adjusting to the lack of traction(we took up their carpet), they can no longer stop on a dime and there are no more sharp turns. But they're fun to watch!!!!
> I bought a Shark Deluxe Steam Mop, because I wanted to be able to clean the floor without using chemicals that wouldn't harm my dogs. I couldn't find any information online, so I called Halstead New England (203-299-3100) and they said that although they recommend heat to reseal any lifting seams/corners, that the steam MAY compromise the adhesive with long term use.
> By the way, the Swiffer Wet Jet solution is very harmful for your pets.
> Just thought you may want to know.:thumbup:


 
I'm new to this website, and just saw your message now, if you still are viewing/having issues with cleaning, I have just started using the Streak Free cloth on my current hardwood and ceramic floors. It comes in a mop form and you use no other products, none. I put a water based air freshener in water and mop. The floors do not streak, and they feel clean. I used to spend 4 hours washing my floors on my knees, now it takes 15-20 minutes with little effort. I am not a sales person for this product and get nothing by referring this product. I just love it and hope it makes someone else's life easier... Google Streak Free Cloth and their are many websites that sell it.:thumbsup:


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## greencottage

*I've seen it in commerical application*

My local Home Depot told me about a local sporting goods retailer who had installed the Allure product in their showroom so we went over and took a look. It's snow season here so the flooring was pretty dirty from customers snowy shoes, but when we first walked in I thought I had been misinformed and that it was actually a wood floor. I had to get down close to be sure it wasn't. If it were mopped it might be easier to tell, but the simulated wood effect is pretty good. The store has had it down for a couple of years and they said it survived a flood from a serious roof leak without separating.


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## ocms

can you place it over tile?


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## k9feces

EXFFPM said:


> I am considering installing Trafficmaster Allure tile pattern in my bathroom and have a question regarding how to keep the seam where the material meets the front face of the bathtub "tight". I understand that proper installation requires the specified gap around the perimeter of the room between the material and the wall for expansion and contraction, but is it possible/advisable to secure the material to the underlayment along the length of the seam in front of the tub? I normally seal that area with silicone after installing vinyl flooring, but am I destined to have a 1/8" to 3/8" gap filled with silicone in the most obvious location of the installation? Thanks for all the great info so far!


Put a small gap around the tub, a normal bead of silicone can be used and no gap will be visible. 1/8" not 3/8".


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## Laurelaura

*Painted Concrete*

Thanks to everyone for all your posts. DH and I are brand-new homeowners and we are looking for something cheap, quick and easy to spruce up our laundry room (we have other projects that we would rather spend time and money on). The room is a bit uneven (it slopes down to the basement drain) and has been painted. The paint is now chipping, and we see that there are several layers. We would love a new floor, but really want to avoid the mess of removing the paint, etc. 

Am I correct in assuming that Allure would be a good option for us since the prep work we'd have to do on the floor is minimal? Is there something that would be better? 

Thanks, 
Laura


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## petersburg

*Gen.cont.*

Mold problems under the flooring. Just for your information, any flooring you put on your concrete floor , especially a vinyl style floor like "trafficmaster allure" or any other type similar to this, is not a good idea unless you know for _sure_ that there is a vapor barrier under your concrete floor. Just because your home is new doesn't mean it has one. In order to test for it, lay a vapor barrier, such as a vinyl tile or a rubber mat, over an area of about 3' by 3' and wait for three days. Then remove and see if there is any moisture on the floor or on the tile or mat. If not, you more than likely have a vapor barrier below the floor. Run a few tests to make sure. If you do have moisture, you should not put one of these products on your floor. They trap moisture between the concrete and the bottom of the product, and the likelyhood of mold developing. Use carpet instead. You can get various types of carpet with a low profile that allow the moisture to evaporate into the room. 
I hope this helped. 
Pete.


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## sam1968

*Allure flooring for Garage Floors??*

Just saw this flooring advertised at HD and am led to believe it can be installed on garage floors. Does anyone have any experience in laying this stuff on garage floors give nit will be prone to occasional rain with garage door opening/closing? Any other suggested alternatives for flooring? Tried floor paints, but they always seem to come off with time.


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## bird7679

*Allure ending with no wall*

We are looking at installing Allure flooring in part of our basement. What would we use for the transition between the end of the Allure planks and the painted cement floor? We can't afford to do the whole basement so we are leaving the laundry floor just paint.


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## californiascott

Hi, Buy the better quality product Konecto. !2 mil thick much better than Allure 4 mil


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## biancagrayling

I hired 2 different handymen and for 2 houses and installed the allure flooring. I used the oakcolor which I am not really excited about the color/style. One guy did it perfect, and it looks great.
The other did a poor job and it seperated in areas and you could see dark spaces between seams.Also he did not use a roller - as advised--. Always use a 100 lb roller.
I fixed the poor job by using a floor cleaner steamer first, and then my husband followed immediately with the 100 lb roller. The steamer may be overkill, the roller alone could work


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## srobert11

*Traffic Master Allure over Ceramic Tile?*

Has anyone installed the Traffic Master "wood look" Allure over ceramic or porcelium 13" x 13" tiles with apprx. 14" grout lines? I wonder if the grout lines will start to hollow out in the Allure after it has been down for a while.


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## Rivethead

srobert11 said:


> Has anyone installed the Traffic Master "wood look" Allure over ceramic or porcelium 13" x 13" tiles with apprx. 14" grout lines? I wonder if the grout lines will start to hollow out in the Allure after it has been down for a while.


Eventually they will show through. Fill them before you do your install.


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## kt633

We are also looking to install Trafficmaster Allure vinyl flooring in a laundry room. I think this will work best because we have two layers of old linoleum and under that is a concrete slab. However, in the center of the room is a drain. (Right now there are holes cut in the linoleum so the water can go down the drain. I feel like the Trafficmaster Allure vinyl flooring would cause a breeding ground for mold because it is "waterproof" and will not breathe at all. What do you think?


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## pashgal

My allure flooring panels are coming apart after a correct installation. It is installed in my house which is only one floor.


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## grammyandpa

We are interested in this flooring also. We have vinyl now and the sunshine and the heat from the kick heater have turned the floor deep purple. It was a light color. Do you know how Allure holds up in the sun an heat?


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## joey99

I am looking in to this flooring as well - trying to decide between the Allure and the Konecto Prestige. I will be installing it in my basement - about 600 sq ft. While I do not have water in my basement (sump pump works great thank goodness) - it does get humid down there in the summer. I have a heavy duty dehumidifier that keeps the humidity to 50% in the summer - temp stays between 65-70 for the most part year round in the basement.

I am interested in the comments above about possible mold growth under. Is it ok to install this product over something like Delta-FL? This would keep the flooring off the concrete - and if the glue sticks will hold properly on top of Delta-Fl could this be a way to go?


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## fixrite

in order to install this or any other flooring in an out of square room you need to do the following. Lets say it is a 6x8 bathroom with the wall behind the door being out of square. Determine a straight line by measuring off two adjacent walls. If you were say 1-1/2 inches out and were using 9x9 tiles. Then using a straight edge run a reference line on the floor that would allow you to trim the tiles enough yet not be terribly noticable. I would try to have my cuts on a wall behind a door. Trim those tiles and then place them, using your guide line. This would give you the reference you need to finish installing the remainder of the tiles. This principal can also be used for plank style flooring. When using the allure flooring product, don't forget to take an inch off the first row of tiles that go against the wall. In regards to a knife, invest in a good utility knife( with new blades). Straight edge is good choice. In regards to your staircase, I would use a paper template. Tape down utility paper draw it out and then trim paper. Place paper on flooring(dryfit) cut to same as paper and voila. 
Hope this helps


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## Donenonly

HI, we are puttting in the allure planks in a bedroom. Ok, we took the carpet and padding out, we have concrete floor. After my husband removed the carpet floor tacks we now have several small caved in holes where the nails were. Should we put "quick-crete" in them or just leave it be? I wouldn't want the fresh new concrete to mold after we put the new planks in. What do you think? And I saw you had found a web site that talks about this flooring, Can you tell me the site address? (Ihope you still have it)
So far are you pleased with your flooring?


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## redhotcurvz

I have been reading this "Thread" for the last few weeks. First I read ALL the posts and then have been keeping up with the conversation. Thank goodness the 2 guys that were arguing settles Their differences. :thumbup: But, A FEW TIMES people have asked if anyone has installed this flooring in a Manufactured Home.:furious: NO ONE even bothered to stop the fighting about The Depot and the quality of a product that wasn't even being discussed! Are Us Manufactured Home owners not worthy of getting an answer? Seems that even when the fight was over, Questions got answered and again, someone asked if it was applicable for manufactured Home installation, again...no response. I am very curious about this as well. Has anyone given up on getting Their questions asked about this and just finally did it? :huh: I mean for the money, I'm thinking of just going ahead and putting it in. But My Home is paid off and I am doing EXTENSIVE remodeling and plan to be here a VERY long time (My House is paid off & Thanks to Pres. Bush, Were all screwed!) Or should I just say screw it and put in regular hardwood? I've been living with, just like another guy had said, plywood floors for the last 3 years. It started out that I just didn't have the money and the carpets were so horrible that plywood was better and now I got sick and can't do all this work myself. It takes Me 10x longer than it should to do a project because I'll start and then get a flare up,I go back to work and get a flare up..and so on and so on. SO I really don't want to do anything twice because it takes Me too long to get anything done in the first place! So far it's 50% for this product and 50% against it. I'm so confused about what I should do. to install or to not install???


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## redhotcurvz

Another thought...I seen that the People that were against this product said They weren't happy because after a while the glue strips separated and that it wasn't advised to use a blow dryer to help with adhesion. Has anyone thought about using another glue that is made for the dry tiles consisting of the same material (one especially for vinyl floors) If You added Your own glue on the strips and just ignored the fact that it already has glue pre adhered,and trowel it on, Wouldn't that solve the problem all together? Yes, time consuming. But if it makes the floor not separate, totally worth the extra cost & time in doing. At least I would think. Another thing to think about...It was mentioned that it isn't advisable to put an underlayment because this is a floating floor. If it's advised when You use Peel & Stick tiles to use a Luann underlayment to ensure a completely flat surface and to even out any variations in the floor because being resilient, it will eventually conform to all the defects in the floor, Then why can't You put the same School Of Thought into effect here?


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## blue eyez

hello i would like to ask you more about traffic master tiles. 
i am thinking about doing my kitchen and living room floors with 12x12 traffic master tiles. 
what do you think about these tiles.


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## k9feces

blue eyez said:


> hello i would like to ask you more about traffic master tiles.
> i am thinking about doing my kitchen and living room floors with 12x12 traffic master tiles.
> what do you think about these tiles.


If you are going for the tile look get a good laminate tile like Dupont makes, I wouldn't put this stuff in the Kitchen due to the risk of dropping things on it. 

However there is still a chance of damaging laminate in the kitchen, my point is that this stuff isn't that cheap and a laminate might be a better choice.

I only use this stuff in rooms with uneven floors where laminate wouldn't lock together properly.


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## Mike1651

*Konecto Tile Products...*

Since it's apparent that the Konecto products have more quality than the Trafficmaster brand, can anyone tell me if Konecto's tile products come in 36" strips like it's Trafficmaster counterpart?


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## Cecosugi

I, too, have been researching the Konecto products, and put the Allure in my basement (concrete floor) bedroom. I plan on putting the Konecto in my dining room. We are going to be building a house soon, so we are using our existing home (which must be re-floored before we move anyway) as a testing ground.

I can answer your question about the 36" planks. They do come in 36" planks, but also come in 48" planks, depending on the style you pick. If I remember right, the "traditional" "Prestige" is 48 inches. If you are asking about the tile pattern, I have a 16" square Konecto tile, but they also have narrow tiles in a 3-tile plank, which may be 36". I didn't like them as well as the square tile, because you'll be able to see the crack of the plank. In other words, you'll see that it's a 3-tile plank, whereas the 16" square tile will look like an individual tile. I hope that makes sense. The Konecto has several "grades" of varying thickness and length. They also have a very new commercial grade plank that looks like bamboo. It is gorgeous. It's about $6.50 a square foot from my local flooring store, so it won't be going everywhere I want to put it. 

My husband and I installed the Allure about 2 weeks ago, as a trial run. We wanted to spend a little money to see how it looked. We spent "a little" money, and it looks great. Feels great. And were very surprised at the ease of installation. We didn't argue at all. We did 5 boxes in about an hour. We stopped at 5 boxes because we ran out--our engineering wasn't so great. So we got 3 more boxes, let them acclimate for 3 days, then used superglue on the adhesive that had sat exposed for those 3 days. We've had no problems with lifting, but it's only been down 2 weeks. In addition, our bedroom leaked water with this latest storm, and water puddled on the Allure. Again, no problem with lifting or non-adhesion.


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## spanky10

*mobile homes*

i own a mhp with 25 units. i found nothing to be level or stright in an older mh. i have installed this product myself in about 13 of my units. when i show a unit to rent everyone is impressed. the product is priced right, goes down easy and looks great. i have been using it in units for 1.5 years without any problems. i got tired of cleaning carpets or removing them becouse of pet oders. so far no pet oders yet. my units have large temputure changes. this past winter i had a few units open and many dropped below freezing. then warmed up when tenants moved in without any problems.


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## redhotcurvz

Spanky10....
Thank You so very much fo rletting Me know that! I have been puttig off putting this throughout My Home because I wouldn't be doing just one or two rooms. I was going to do all of the rooms that used to have carpet in them, So obviously, That adds up doing that much sqaure footage. I will definately install it now. I truly appriciate Your honesty!


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## BB Gun

*My experience so far*

After seeing this stuff at Home Depot, I came home to do a web search on this stuff and found this thread. Lots of good info. So we decided to go ahead and do it. We used the Home Depot Allure Corfu tile pattern for an approximately 10'x20' kitchen/dining room combo. With waste, it took 10 boxes.

The old kitchen floor rolled vinyl put down by previous owners was lifting, so I sliced into all the bubbles and put new flooring adhesive under the floor and let it dry. We had one spot where there was about a 1.5" diameter hole in the vinyl which I filled with a cut piece I was able to liberate from under the stove. While it was drying, we removed the trim from around the room.

Once the floor adhesive set about an hour later, I started putting down the allure (about 2:30 pm in the afternoon). At 11:30 PM I stopped with about one complicated cut row remaining and hit the sack. The next morning I blew my first cuts three times, but was then on my way and finished about an hour later. Replaced the transition moldings and replaced the trim with a little bit of grinding in places to accomodate the new floor height. Ran to Home depot, got a 75 pound seam roller and rolled the seams and returned it at about 5:00 PM. Rolling it squeezed some adhesive out through the seams, but some judicious use of mineral spirits cleaned it right up.

Two days of work start to finish. With a little bit better planning, I could probably have done it all in one day.

10 days later, it still looks great. A VAST improvement over the old rolled vinyl. Well worth the approximately 700.00 for the 10 boxes. Very simple to do. I've put down 2 x 120 sqft rooms worth of click-lock type flooring before using this stuff. This stuff is a lot easier simply because you don't need the saw. Kids spilled about a quart of milk on the floor 3 days after laying it and it wiped right up with no apparent leakage (no rotten milk smell).

There are a few seams that I'm not happy with, but that's apparently only because I know right where they are. Nobody else really notices them, or just accepts them as part of the floor.

The day after it was complete, my hamstrings and glutes were aching from the 150-200 deep knee bends I had done during the laying of the floor. At least I'd been going to the YMCA for the last year and a half, or it would have been WAY worse.

BB <--- DIYChatroom newbie


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## BB Gun

Pics:




























Of course, now we're looking at countertops...

BB


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## j55

any one used this product lately
the mold thing has me spooked
my install wouldnt be basement but would be on bare slab
the product is supposed to be waterproof and i believe
25 year warranty 
you would think they would tell you to seal
or vapor barrier or something


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## k9feces

Has anyone used the new Allure one step cleaner sealer? It comes in gloss and matte finishes, I am afraid the try the stuff because it seems like it would be hard to remove by reading the label.


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## moodyman

Hello everybody,

I would seriously re-consider putting something on my basement floor that doesn't "breathe". Its doesn't matter how dry you think your basement is. By its nature concrete will act like a wick and draw moisture into the basement. If it can't evaporate into the room because its trapped underneath the flooring mold WILL grow. You can put a vapor barrier down first...but you may still get mold growth underneath the barrrier. Along those same lines more and more building experts are advising against putting vapor barriers on your basement wall for the same reasons. Its better that water vapor enters your basement living area rather then get trapped behind the insulation because of the vapor barrier. Once in the living area it can evaporate or, even better, be removed with the dehumidifier you should be running. 

I am in the process of finishing my own basement and am leaning towards carpet.


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## sleighbor

Hello,

I was considering putting down a sheet of vinyl flooring in my kitchen. The reason for this is that I have a dog that sometimes has accidents on the kitchen floor and I thought a sheet of vinyl would be best because it would just puddle on top.

When I went to Home Depot the flooring person there strongly recommended the Allure Trafficmaster because of how well it will hold up. I have no doubt that it will hold very well to the traffic. My concern is when my dogs have an accident will it get between the seams and under the floor? Definitely not a good thing. Opinions please.

Thank you!!
Kevin


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## mike costello

Your not gonna find any floor professional to recommend a product that stands up to pee.

Pee is very acidic and will etch itself into any vinyl product.

Talk to your vet and see if there is a medical issue with your pup .

Aside from that you may want to look into a ceramic tile maybe? Something with an epoxy grout


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## Sassna

Hi, All,
We started laying the Bamboo pattern for the Allure panels on Sat. afternoon in the dining room and kitchen area of a mobile home-lots of curves and the walls were not totally straight. It's being laid over an old linoleum floor. The area will be about 750 sq ft, a vacation home on the coast. We got about 1/2 the project done before leaving. so we'll come back in a few weeks to finish.

Some things we learned: You need lots and lots of patience.... and measure twice if not thrice.

That temperature does make a big difference. Around 68-70 degrees the panels snapped more easily after cutting and the glue was slower in setting up, which was better for positioning the panels. Higher temperatures 75 or higher the glue sets up much faster and its harder to reposition. 

We used double back carpet tape (only thing the hardware store had). The non-adhesive backing from the tape was later used to protect the tabs when we had to back fill some areas. We tucked it under while we slide the new panel into place and then pulled it out when the panel was in place.

We used a standard boxcutter utility knife to cut/score the panels. Changed the blades often

When there was a tricky area with smaller angles, smaller pieces were cut, fitted to a larger piece and than laid in place. 

The wax paper layers in the box were taped down over the exposed tabs with blue masking tape, to keep them clean. The dog preferred to sit on the sticky tabs over anywhere else in the house. 

I love the Bamboo pattern and the new flooring is transforming the whole area. I hope some of this helps someone starting out.


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## JackofallMasterofnone

I posted on here months ago, asking about this Allure flooring. i really appreciate all the help I received. We are in the midst of installing it now, and it goes down so quickly! What we are having an issue with is the cutting. It sure doesn't seem as easy as everyone says. We have tried cutting from the top and the bottom. We have new blades and are changing frequently.

Any suggestions?

Thanks so much!


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## fixrite

Have heard that same complaint regarding installation, but considering it is that tough to cut, it should be that much tougher in daily use. Keep your chin up and it will be done soon enough.


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## JackofallMasterofnone

Thanks for the motivation!

And I have purchased and played with both the gloss and the satin Allure floor care product. Since I haven't actually put in on the floor and walked on it yet, i'm not sure how it will wear. But the shine is gorgeous!

Now that it is later in the evening, we are being a little rougher when we try to snap and it's working better. We may have been too tentative about it.:wink:


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## firsttime

*Help with Tile Style Allure Corfu flooring*

Hi there,
I bought Corfu tile style Allure flooring as well. Plan to install next weekend, although finding out it needs to "acclimatize" for 48 hours may delay that. I am installing it in my boyfriend's home, which is four hours away. Anyway, I have a couple questions about this tile style floor. Hope you can answer: 

1. Should the tiles be staggered (like the faux wood) or lined up with each other? 
2. _I am doing a kitchen, short stairway to a landing and then a full stairway....anyone have anytips on how the tile squares should be lined up from floor to stairs then back to floor? _
_3. I don't understand what everyone is talking about laying the first row (maybe i'll get it when i start but...) Can anyone give a detailed instruction about laying the first row? _
_4. The Home Depot guy didn't mention renting a hundred pound roller. How essential is this? _

_Thanks for any and all replies _


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## fixrite

when installing the first row you will need to cut off the end that goes to the wall, leaving the glue end exposed. You should try and post some pics so we can give you the best advise possible

cheers


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## firsttime

The home depot guy let me cut a sample.
All you do is score it and then snap it. 
Don't cut it thru. 
It's actually what sold me.


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## firsttime

*Pics "Before"*

Here you go, Fixrite.
I guess the circa 1979 linoleum speaks for itself huh?


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## May

*Re-thinking the Traffic Master Allure products*

Wow, from reading all the glowing testimonials on the Home Depot website to some of the horror stories here and on a couple of other websites, I have to say I'm thinking of just sticking with glue-down tile. We have converted our garage and have been looking for something inexpensive for the floor in the small office and an entryway for the family room. We have an expansion joint in the middle of the family room, so anything but carpet over that is a no-no. It truly does sound like it is all or nothing with the Traffic Master and we can't afford a do-over! I really appreciate everyone's input. I laid some cheap peel and stick vinyl in our kitchen as an interim floor 4 years ago and it is looking worn, but is still a pretty floor, so I may go with a little higher grade of that. Any suggestions about what is better over concrete? The garage is now heated, so that shouldn't be an issue. Also, the floor in the office needs to be able to stand up to very heavy storage buckets stacked on it (each stack being around 120 lbs.). Porcelain tile made sense, but I'm afraid I may have some spots that are not quite level and I don't have the skill to fix that! Thanks for any ideas!


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## JackofallMasterofnone

*It's beautiful!*

I am amazed at how well this went down, and how soft it feels underfoot. I laid it on OSB and it feels smooth as silk. Once we got the cutting down, it went VERY quickly. I did a 19 x 10 room, plus a closet and vanity area in 7 hours. That was me laying the tile and my husband cutting it. Once we got a rhythm, we rocked it out!

He rolled it the next day, even though the directions said it was optional for residential use, we wanted to be safe. My 91 year-old father-in-law moves in this weekend, and we couldn't be more pleased with how this floor will work for him.

Had I known this product existed before I laid ceramic tile in my kitchen, Allure would be there now. I will be putting it in my bathroom when we remodel that.

Thanks to everyone for their help! :thumbup:


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## Linanart

I have it installed in my basement over concrete. It has been there for approximately 3 years. I love it. I am now considering a similar floor for my kitchen. I have seen some that looks like stone that I would like to investigate. Good luck.


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## olduser56

*Problem with certain color of Allure Trafficmaster*

We installed two colors of Allure Trafficmaster in our basement: Cyprus and Corfru. Both were installed at the same time of the year. Our basement is heated between the recommended temperature range. Both colors were kept in the area where they were to be installed for days before installation began. The Corfru color is doing well. It was installed before the Cyprus. We liked the product so much that we decided to finish the basement with Cyprus color. However we are now having a problem with the seams separating with the Cyprus colored tile. Some have now seperated up to 1/8 of an inch. We want to install some Chocololate colored tiles but hesitate to do so until this problem is solved.


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## Aussie Peter

*Floor covering*

dEAR DAN-ABBY, i AM RIGHT IN UNDERSTANDING THAT YOU LAID ALLURE FLOORING OVER A HEATING FLOOR. iF SO WHAT FLOOR COVERING DID YOU USE, HARDWOOD OR A VINYL. i AM LOOKING AT LAYING ALLURE FLOORING OVER A CONCRET FLOOR WHICH PROVIDES THE HOUSE HEATING DURING THE WINTER. i AM CONCERNED AT THE VINYL EXPANDING OR SOFTENING AND OF THE EFFECT OF THE HEAT ON THE GLUE. i CANNOT FIND THE ANSWERS TO THESE QUESTIONS. wHEN i ASKED THE SALESMAN FOR THE CO-EFFICIENT OF EXPANSION i MIGHT AS WELL HAVE BEEN ASKING FOR THE LATEST INFORMATION ON NUCLEAR PHYSICS. REGARDS, Aussie Peter


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## CAThorn

*transition flooring?*

Hi. We are considering replacing some of our carpet with allure flooring. I've scanned through this thread and don't really see any answers to the question: What do you use to transition between the carpeted rooms and the allure flooring? What if you're transitioning b/t the allure "wood" flooring and allure "tile" flooring? (we're considering doing our kitchen too) Also, I read about the hair dryer closing up some of the divets in laminate flooring, but didn't see a reply what to do about holes in cement. And then, just to make sure, we need a knife with new blades and a carpenters square? Anything else? Thanks


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## annie68164

CAThorn, we just have our allure flooring butting up to where the carpet starts without a transition strip and it's working out fine (been 7 months now) we do have short shag carpet so don't know if that made a difference. We do have an area where it butts up to some short office-type carpet and for that I definitely needed a transition strip. Bought it at Home Depot for about $6 or so and though the fake wood on it doesn't match my flooring exactly you can't tell at all, it looks fine. I'd be happy to email you pics, just let me know. or I'll try to post some on this site.


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## kgizo

*I love Allure flooring!*

Installed it over 2 years ago in two bedrooms and an adjoining bath. We had a dog with bladder cancer and installed Allure because of the accidents. This has been a great product. Affordable, easy to install, easy to clean, looks great and holds up well.


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## sleighbor

kgizo said:


> Installed it over 2 years ago in two bedrooms and an adjoining bath. We had a dog with bladder cancer and installed Allure because of the accidents. This has been a great product. Affordable, easy to install, easy to clean, looks great and holds up well.


Hi KGizo,

So your dog had accidents on this flooring and it help up ok? I would really love to put down this flooring and the dog pee is my only concern.

Thank you!
Kevin


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## kgizo

*Allure*

Hi Kevin,

It is very easy to clean up accidents. In fact, I think they should sell it in PetSmart instead of Home Depot because it is perfect for pets. It takes a couple of minutes w/ a swiffer to clean up the hair. Much better than carpet for allergies. For the accidents I use water and/or Armstrong depending on how quickly I discover it. 

With the wood texture it is easier on my dogs and cat too (I have chihuahuas and their feet slip out from under them on wood/tile). Like most new flooring, it had a smell for a few days after installation. So if you plan to have your pets in the room I'd recommend installing at a time you can have the windows open.

One bonus I wasn't expecting is that I like it better b/c it is softer on my feet than tile. And, in the winter it doesn't get cold like tile.

Good luck!


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## sleighbor

Excellent! I was thinking the same thing about it being softer than tile. My dog sleeps on the floor and that would be better for her. Thank you for the info. It is really helpful and with this I am going to go with this flooring.

Kevin


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## BB Gun

CAThorn said:


> Hi. We are considering replacing some of our carpet with allure flooring. I've scanned through this thread and don't really see any answers to the question: What do you use to transition between the carpeted rooms and the allure flooring?


Just a regular metallic carpet transition piece. I transitioned between the hallway carpet (which badly needs replacement too) and the kitchen floor with a standard bronze-ish tack strip. Works fine.

Also a note to all - 2 months later, still holding up well. Easy sweep, easy cleanup of spills, the tile pattern on the corfu doesn't show dirt easily. 

Our dog has a harder time of it on the allure than on the old soft vinyl, but definitely has an easier time of it on the allure relative to some wood product laminate I put down in a couple of the kids' bedrooms.

BB


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## sleighbor

Good to know! thanks BB!

Kevin


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## idic5

*some questions on ALLURE TRAFFIC MASTER 12x36 tiles found at H Depot and hecho in the great state of China - where quality rules!
*
1) I was thinking of putting it in our basement in the area around the gas furnace. This area is currently cement, but seems to be somewhat dusty - maybe due to the deteriorating cement? So I was looking for something to cover the dusty cement that is inexpensive and also not time consuming to install. So I thought about Allure. 

Is this an OK idea, or is this a dangerous idea since the tiles can be flammable?

2) What is Allure TrafficMaster tiles made of? I cd not find the ingredients on the box.

One reason I was covering the cement was that I wanted to minimize the dust getting into the GFA system - we have a child with allergies. But I smelled one of these tiles and it smells 'real chemically', like something from Bhopal , India or something, so I was concerned about sending this stuff around the house via the sucking in of the ambient air near the furnace.

3) any other bad experiences with Allure and mold? I am concerned about mold, too, since we have had this in the basement before.

I might post separately, but: 

What would be a good floor covering over an old cement basement floor -in order to mitigate mucho dust - , that is nearby to a gas forced air furnace, that is inexpensive and not that hard or messy to install, and that would not be too chemical-like (no carcinogenic compostion or adhesives)?


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## krnanz

*allure flooring in rv*

Has anyone installed the allure laminate in an rv with a slide-out? Would this work?


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## way old diyer

stick with allure, it'll out last the vinyl tiles garaunteed!!!


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## dougpks

madeyoulook said:


> To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.
> 
> PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.


 
You seem to know the product pretty well. For anybody: I know the instructions say to cut off the "over" glue strips on the planks that are against the wall you begin on (lay planks left to right to the end of the room). I presume that once you get across the room to the opposing, parallel wall, that you have to cut-off the "under", exposed glue strip and rip the planks on that wall to finish out the lay... and in no place whatsoever is there a glue strip adhering to the floor? I have purchased 21 cases to do my basement/bar area that has been scraped of indoor/outdoor carpet (with the black cutback glue) over concrete. Thanks.


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## milb

*Sealing perimeter in bathroom application.*

I would like to install this product in my bathroom. I worry that, as this is a floating floor, moisture would find a way to get beneath the floor causing sub floor issues, and mold. Has anyone installed this in a bathroom, and can you tell me whether using kitchen & bath vinyl silicone sealant is adequate, or do you have other recommendations?

Thanks,

Bruce:thumbsup:


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## azcamper

*Great product*

This forum is great. I used it to learn about Trafficmaster Allure and pick up some pointers. I have now installed this flooring in our manufactured home in the kitchen, utility room and two bathrooms. Installation was relatively easy and I had no problems. Floors look great and so far are holding up well. All were installed over existing sheet vinyl. In the utility room, I was wondering what would happen to the floor if bleach from the washing machine got spilled. I took a scrap piece of the floor and poured a puddle of bleach on it and let it sit over night. The next day when I rinsed it off, you could not see where the bleach had been. I highly recommend this product !


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## larrylwill

I remodeled our 1962 kitchen last year, my wife did not want tile she wanted something softer to stand on and she settled on the Allure cherry from HD. I had to remove the tile and backer board. The sub floor was not too great so I covered it with sheets of Masonite then applied the Allure over it. It was no problem to put down, I cut the glue strips off one side to make transition strips where I changed direction in the middle of the floor. I put it from cabinet to cabinet so if we had truobles it would be easy to remove. The wife is happy and it still looks as good as new.


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## jem3

*Help*

I put an Allure floor in the basement 8mo ago. There had been a glue down hard tile floor down there without problems. Then we had a flood (broken toilet) which loosened the majority of tiles so I took them up and put down the Allure. I put it down myself and was very proud (60year old woman) It looked great!!!! 

Now it is poping up all over the place. I can not afford to replace this. One of these posting spoke to mold. What can I do? Is there a sealer I could put on it? Doesn,t mold need air??? If there was a sealer would that kill any mold?

I am renting out the basement in a effort to stay out of forclosure. The tenant is leaving the end of the month. I need to get another tenant right away. I need to do something fast. What would happen if I put down a coat of polyurithan like they do on wood floors? 

What would you advise?


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## dougpks

*Allure problems?*

Not sure about the mold problem. Do you see signs of it? A basement can get a lot of moisture in the air. I run a humidifier during summer and empty about 2 gallons of water a day. I am in process (haven't started) of puttin Allure down on my concrete basement floor. Regarding the popping up of tiles, did you roll it with a 100 lb. roller as recommended? I have read where you can heat the glue strips to reactivate the glue and then roll the glue edges with a roller. Also, I read somewhere that a person had the same problem with a basement application popping up at edges and actually ironed the seams of the planks covering the plank first with a towel to prevent burning, blistering the plank. He said it was a lot of ironing but it eventually worked. Hope this helps.


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## larrylwill

From what I understand and read, putting anything over a basement concrete floor is risky due to potential moisture problems. The allure brochure says it can be applied over concrete but a search of home forums finds many people with lifting problems when installing over basement concrete floors. Although I don't see why the edges would peel unless the temperature variations on the floor varied more than normal household temperature ranges.
If I were in your shoes I would apply a layer of plastic over the concrete to make a moisture barrier. I know they make bridge pilings out of concrete so it shouldn't matter if the concrete stays moist as long as it doesnt get to the planks. However I am no expert.


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## dougpks

Larrylwill:

Thanks for the response. My situation is that we had a water supply line burst or come loose in a second story bathroom. Water poured into 1st floor and down to finished basement. Ceiling tiles, carpet, some baseboards got wet and have been taken down/up. The carpeting had been laid over previously (before we bought the house) glued down indoor/outdoor carpet. Carpet was scraped up down to concrete. There was the old black, cutback glue that was virtually eliminated ... not all, but most ... and concrete floor scraped smooth. All nail holes, cement screws holding down carpet tack board (for the regular carpet laid over the old glue down carpet) removed and holes, etc. filled in and leveled. I have already purchased 21 cases of Allure with the idea that either I or the company that the insurance company is using would install. My wife talked me into letting the company do it. That company has opted to call Home Depot and let one their contractor installers do the work. So that is where I am ... so we shall see.


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## larrylwill

Good luck, I'm fighting with Silverline about their best Patio Door that lets water past the bottom seal into the inside track that runs back out through the weep holes. When it rains its a continuous stream of water, they sent out a tech who admitted he had never seen a 5800 door and said its normal that's why it has weep holes. The model at HD doesn't leak at all.


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## dougpks

and good luck to you as well (it is always something!).


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## Intense72

I have laid down both the Allure plank flooring as well as the fake tile with grout look to it and it's awesome. I have a manufactured home and this flooring adds considerable valuve to the house. I have two dogs (Female Black lab and Male Britney Spaniel) and they have nails that I do not clip. They are inside dogs and only go outside to play and go potty which means they are always either on the couch or on the floor. No scratches show up at all. This is awesome flooring and I would encourage anyone to to it. I had the snap fit type before and that was a pain to make straight and not leave any gaps.
I'm an EE by trade and not a flooring type person but if I can do it you can too. 

:thumbup:


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## sleighbor

All I can say is I should have done this a year ago. I had reservations about buying it but boy was I wrong. This floor is fantastic. We got the ceramic tilie looking floor. Installation could not be easier. I installed some Pergo-like flooring a year ago and that was a pain in the neck to deal with. With the Allure flooring you just stick it down next to the last one and they hold great.

The floor is beautiful. I love that it is solid rubber material. It is very strong and is impervious to water. The other Pergo-like flooring has already swelled up and split in two places from water puddling. I would never put that kind of flooring down again. I installed this whole floor in about 3 hours and it looks like a pro did it and I am as a far from a pro at flooring as they get. 

Buy the Trafficmaster Allure flooring. You will not be sorry. :thumbsup:

Kevin


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## dougpks

*Allure Installation*

Hello Sleighbor:

Good to hear you like the Allure Trafficmaster. I have yet to install in basement on concrete. I am still figuring out some layout challenges due to the basement not being just a rectangular room wall to wall. There is a half wall extending into the room, a small entry "hall" into the room and then a bathroom into which the planks will go. Just need to figure out some things. Also, I am concerned about some water seepage getting under the installed floor setting up possible trapping of mold. Also, I have read where using water proof, double sided carpet tape on first starter row is a good thing ... don't know. How did your installation go, any challenges?


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## mbdolly

*Installing allure over preengineered wood flooring*

Several years ago I had Bruce preengineered flooring installed. I have been very disappointed with it. It has not held up and looks terrible. About a month ago I had a leak from my air conditioner that has ruined my flooring. Since I cannot refinish the floor, I have considered Allure. I also have a 17 1/2 year old dog and there are times when she cannot make it out side. All things considered, I think Allure would be a good choice for me. 

I read that you could not install it over plank floors. Will I have to tear up the old preengineered floor?


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## larrylwill

It is a floating floor completely sealed, I don't see why you could not install it over a plank floor. It just sits on top of the existing floor.


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## gatogreensleeve

*bathroom questions*

I've just read through the entire thread and still have some questions that no one has answered. 

1. My Corfu tiles are acclimating to my bathroom right now, but they've been in my living room for the last 48 hours. The two rooms have been at a fairly consistent temperature (72-77ish) and I have had the thermostat/air conditioner running for two days. Do I still need to wait another 48 hours?

2. As I understand it, the floor is supposed to float, with a 1/8 inch gap at the walls/baseboards. My floor will be in a bathroom up against walls, a tub, nothing (doorway), and cabinets. In order to make it waterproof for a bathroom, silicone was recommended around the edges. Do I silicone ALL the way around or just at the tub, walls, cabinets? How can the floor 'float' if all the sides are siliconed, let alone of the toilet sits on it? Is sylicone pliable enough to allow for temp fluctuations? If I put shoe moulding on everything, will that affect the breathing/contraction/expansion as well as the waterproofing factor?

3. I originally had nasty old glued down carpet in my bathroom that I ripped up to find nasty old vinyl under that. The carpet was so old that it left the vinyl floor covered in old black foamy carpet glue (you know the type?). The vinyl was coming up in the corners anyway, so rather than scrape the carpet glue off of the old vinyl for two days, I pulled it up to see what was under that and I could see ye old subfloor (this is a second story bathroom). The vinyl flooring split as I was prying it up with a metal scraper, so I continued around the room like that, until I got all of the hard top part up, leaving the thin layer of gluepaper from the vinyl flooring over the rougher subfloor. Now the floor is 95% gluepaper, with a few of the edges showing 3-4" spots of the rougher subfloor where all the gluepaper came up. The paper is nice and smooth, whereas the subfloor spots are old and splintery, so it doesn't make sense to scrape up the nice smooth surface to reveal an even rougher subfloor when it is so thin. 
First, I'm worried, after reading this thread, that ye old vinyl floor tile (not sure how old it was), was asbestos and I've just exposed my barehanded self to it- what are the implications? If it is asbestos, would 'waterproofing it' with a silicon boarder make it safe?
Second, I'm worried about the slightly higher height of the glue paper vs. the slightly lower bare subfloor spots. But it's not like tacks or nails sticking out, like some people have posted. The areas of exposed subfloor are all less than 1/8" lower- also they are on just a few edges where people will not stand (and behind the toilet). Would it be fine to lay Allure over that or do I need to fill those areas in with something?

4. Last, is it me or does it seem like the people who used a pressure roller are mostly the ones who had the seams come up?


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## larrylwill

I can answer some of the questions. I removed ceramic tiles in the kitchen, they were put on cement backer board which was shredded and full of nails and glued to the sub floor, would have taken forever to remove it so I pulled up the nails, and laid 1/4 masonite over it rough side up to even it out. I nailed it down with a 18ga finish nailer. It wasnt perfect but way better than what was there. Now you would never know how bad the floor was under it. 
As far as the asbestos. Its not solid abestos thats bad, its the dust. Tile is solid as long as its covered and you dont have dust you should be alright, just make sure you water sprey the floor to settle the dust then clean up with a mask on, dont use a vaccuum.
My son had asbestos wrapped pipes, I checked with the city and it was permissible to cover them with plastic so it would not allow the dust to fall off it, So we wrapped and duct taped them wearing plastic suites and masks.
I never sealed the tile edges with silicon, but I also dont expect to get so much water it will make it to the edges either. You dont need to seal it to keep the possible asbestos tile sealed as there wont be any dust.
I never used a roller the wife and I shuffled our feet over it wearing towles on the feet to make sure it was sealed. Its been down a year without any troubles.


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## gatogreensleeve

Thanks for the informative reply. Crap, I've already vaccuumed. Why no vaccuum? Do I need to throw out the bag? It was only dusty when I tried to scrape/chisel down the edges of the glue paper to make it more even. 

As for sealing, I'm worried about moisture getting underneath, not just from spilled water directly, but from bathroom steam over time. 

As for asbestos, I would be equally afraid to spray it with water before laying this on top. Wouldn't it take forever to dry properly and invite a mold issue if I covered it while still wet??


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## larrylwill

I meant spray it with water before you vacuum it up so it doesn't create more dust and stays down. If it was vinyl It shouldn't have asbestos in it. There was asbestos floor tile but it didn't have any vinyl.
Read this: http://www.inspect-ny.com/sickhouse/asbestoslookB.htm
If you have asbestos tile than the vacuum bag should not be throne out, it should be taken to a hazard waste site with the old tile. Double bag it in plastic bags first. Then wash down the outside bag. You would also have already broken the law in most states by removing it yourself.

Of course if it was asbestos and you had to clean it up then let the water dry before you put the Allure down. I don't think you will get moisture under the Allure at the edges unless there is standing water. If the house is on a foundation and your worried about moisture then put a sheet of plastic under the allure. It will aslso seal the asbestos. Personally I wouldn't bother. However I am not an expert. Call Traffic master with your concerns.


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## gatogreensleeve

Thanks again Larrywill, that helps a lot. Asbestos issue resolved. Unfortunately, their support line is closed for the weekend. After reading the instructions: http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/0f/0fca8539-207e-4cd2-b319-f8d024ec4d3b.pdf , I have another question: In the instructions and multiple posts here, we are told to cut off the top/overlaying glue strip that goes against the first wall (figure #2), yet in the illustrations (figures #3 and #6), they leave the top/overlaying glue strip on against the other wall. Why? Why don't we/ can't we put a strip under that (the one we cut from the other side), so it doesn't dip at the wall (such as is suggested for replacing individual damaged sections later in the instructions)? And doesn't this glue strip anchor the "breathing" floor? This is only an issue for me because it adds to the dip I'll already have from the glue paper not being on the edges in spots.


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## larrylwill

If you cut it at one wall you can use it under the other one wall to make it flat again, as you suggested, that's what I did. I also had to change directions in the L of the kitchen, so I cut a bottom glue strip off and used it as a transition strip. The glue strip should not touch the floor.


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## gatogreensleeve

So when you started in a corner, you cut off one overlaying piece and put a strip under the other one to avoid the glue facing down on the other side (and all sides, really)? Why don't they say to do this in the instructions?


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## larrylwill

You would have to ask them.
I suppose If you cut off a strip you ruin the strip. I used scraps from end strips to do it. I don't think its necessary to do it but I did.


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## gatogreensleeve

That's what I would use, in fact, I already have two planks that got dust in the glue on one side, so they would work for that. People, don't open the package until you are ready to work and surfaces are cleaned and dust free! This is really going to suck, considering the wierd angles I have to go around my cabinets and tub. Of the four walls in my bathroom, only about 25% of it total (and only on 3 sides) is actually baseboard moulding, the rest is special cutting. Blech!


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## melpat

:huh:


26yrsinflooring said:


> Traffic master has a *4 mil wearlayer* it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.
> 
> On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.
> 
> *You will never see these at Home Depot:*
> 
> The next line that is availabe is the: *Country Collection from Konecto.*
> It has *6 mil wearlayer* and a urethane finish.
> I rate this a: *5*
> 
> The second line availble: *Sierra Plank from* *Konecto.*
> It has a *12 mil wearlayer* and urethane finish.
> I give this a:*7*
> 
> The best line that is available is: *Prestige Plank from Konecto.*
> This has *12 mil wearlayer* and a *Aluminum Oxide finish.*
> This gets a Perfect:* 10*
> 
> In reply:
> 1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
> *Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.*
> *The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you* *are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.*
> 
> 2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
> *A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)*
> 
> 3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
> *You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!*
> 
> 4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
> *A speed square, very handy!*
> 
> 5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
> *Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.*
> 
> 6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
> *Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.*
> 
> 7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
> I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
> Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
> *Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!*
> *Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.*
> 
> *I second the Kudos to her!*


You mentioned Konecto. We are considering putting Konecto Sierra Plank Flooring in our basement. I have read a lot of comments about problems with the planks separating and coming loose. Most of the comments are at least a year old. Do you have any recent knowledge if they improved the adhesive? My other concern is that since it is a floating floor, what happens if moisture gets under it. Will it create a perfect environment for mold to grow? I am concerned because if our sump pump goes out due to a power outage we get some water that comes up through a center drain from the underground drain tiles.

What is your opinion. Is there a better option for a basement floor?


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## AndreaB

*Allure Flooring stinks...literally*

I bought and installed this 3 or 4 weeks ago and I can still smell the adhesive. I'm actually thinking of ripping it up. I am trying to get in touch with the flooring manager at the Home Depot where I bought it to see if they are willing to refund my money or apply it towards a different floor product. It was not as easy as it seems it should be to install either. But I have to admit that I'm not the most accurate measurer and I seem to have difficulty cutting a straight line. I've noticed that there are some places where I didn't bump the two planks up quite close enough and there are minor gaps. If you just walk in the room (plug your nose) and glance at the floor, it does look good, if you look closely you'd see my installation errors but I can't really fault the product for that.


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## larrylwill

Mine had no oder at all. Did the boxes smell? Did you use any cleaning product? Expose an old sub floor?
Installation is important. Tonight I was talking to a handy man that just finished a job. He had to repair a floor where the homeowner installed a laminate floor.
He nailed the laminate down and did not leave a gap around the edges. It buckled in the middle.


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## sleighbor

I installed the Corfu pattern right over my ceramic tile floor. No problems putting it over the tile or grout lines. there is no smell what so ever. I made a couple of mistakes along the way where I didn't line two tiles up good enough but you can pull it back up and fix it.

I am also terrible at measuring and squaring this stuff. Don't worry about it. It is very easy to cut with a utility knife and I only cut the side that was going to a wall so the little gap caused by my bad cut is covered by baseboard molding.

Everyday I walk on that floor I am still so thrilled that we went with it. It is beautiful, extremely durable unlike laminate flooring, and is soft under foot. Friends of mine all ask if it is real tile!

I can not say enough good things about this product!

Kevin


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## sleighbor

Hey gatogreensleeve,

The instructions on the back of the box are very good and truthfully once you put the first piece down you will see how simple it is. When you start with your first row, in the corner, they tell you to cut off the left edge glue strip (which is the underside) because it would be unsupported and would probably crack over time. 

So assuming you are starting from the left corner and working from left to right it is only the tile against the left side wall where you will be cutting these off.

Kevin


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## dougpks

... and to also cut off ANY glue strip abutting any wall? Correct?


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## sleighbor

Right. On the left edge you will cut off the glue strip. then you can lay out the center of the room extremely fast with this product. Then when you make it over to the wall on the right side of the wrong you will have to measure and cut to length. And then when you get to the back wall cut the tiles to be the right width. Those are the toughest cuts.

To cut the long way I measured, transferred the measurement to a couple of places on the tile and then used a 4' level as a straight edge to cut it.

It is a lot easier than it sounds. My wife and I did a 13'x12' foyer in about 3 hours time.

Good luck!
Kevin


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## dougpks

I think in my case ... because of a half wall dividing the room ... I will have to lay some planks in a reverse manner, tucking an under gluestrip under an over gluestrip. Hard to explain ... but I think there will be some occasion of having to do that in my layout.


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## DangerMouse

dougpks:

i understand what you mean, but won't that make it thicker and leave a slight rise?
or maybe i DON'T understand...lol

DM


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## sleighbor

I think I understand what you mean. You have a half wall coming out halfway across the floor and you are worried about getting the rows to line up on both sides when they meet at the end of the half wall. If this right?

If that is the case then I think I would do the entire left side of that area until you are one full row past the end of the half wall. then instead of laying them down backwards and trying to get them underneath maybe you could just lay them with out joining them. Just kind of lining them up working backwards to the wall so that you can determine where to start the first tile on the right side of the wall?

Hope this helps.

Kevin


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## gatogreensleeve

sleighbor said:


> Hey gatogreensleeve,
> 
> The instructions on the back of the box are very good and truthfully once you put the first piece down you will see how simple it is. When you start with your first row, in the corner, they tell you to cut off the left edge glue strip (which is the underside) because it would be unsupported and would probably crack over time.
> 
> So assuming you are starting from the left corner and working from left to right it is only the tile against the left side wall where you will be cutting these off.
> 
> Kevin


I'm just about done, two more panels... If you look at the pictures #s in the links I posted, you can see that they did NOT cut the TOP glue strip and still put it up against the wall. They only cut the left side, as you said. That was what I was asking about.. the pictures in the instructions are horrible, especially how they are cut off on the sides, such as #3, just where you want to see what they did- you can't, because the pic is cut off. Anyway, this has been really hard for me because of strange cabinet furniture angles, weird tub lines, lots of templates of complex molding, and uneven walls, etc. I only had 2 panels out of 16 that didn't have some extra strange cut. If you have a nice square room without lots of templates it is easy, if not, it isn't. But it does look great, even with a few bobo cuts (I found that if you finger in a very small amount of white silicone onto a bad cut or a seam that isn't perfectly tight, it deemphasizes the darkness of the seam, and at an angle, makes it look perfect. 
One thing I really screwed up was putting my toilet back on, I tightened it too tight and broke a chunk of porcelain off of the back, because the pressure from the new wax ring inside was too much. Do not over tighten that!


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## sotwell

*fitting Allure under baseboards?*

I am finishing my basement and will install Allure. I had planned on going ahead and installing all my trim and baseboards for ease of spray painting. If I leave a gap under the baseboard above the concrete floor, can I tuck Allure under the baseboard or will I have to use 1/4 round?

Also, should I leave a gap under my door jambs?


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## larrylwill

As long as you leave 1/4" gap for expansion it doesn't matter. Just make sure it can move, otherwise it will buckle, the same goes for any floating floor.


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## sotwell

I understand leaving the gap to the wall. I am just curious of the mechanics on how to "bend" the plank under the baseboard. It looks like most planks are "rolled" onto each other. How do you get the end to roll under the basboard for a nice fit?


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## larrylwill

The planks are pretty stiff to roll. You should end at the wall with the next to last plank glue strip up, so you slide the last plank under the baseboard then stick them together. At the long end it will be difficult because you would first have to slide the plank under the baseboard then slide it over the glue strip and press down. The last corner would be really hard to do. It would far easier to put the floor down first or remove the baseboard then put it back.


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## sleighbor

I agree with Larry.

Kevin


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## BB Gun

Back again. 4 months and still no issues, and I did use a seam roller. Corfu hides dirt very well, cleans up easily, and so far has resisted all our attempts at damaging it (chairs with slide pads that have fallen off, dropped forks/knives, pulling out stove and fridge for tiling/painting, etc). Pulling out the fridge to paint revealed only about 1/16" depression where the feet were.

In fact, the new floor begat new countertops, new stove vent hood and my very first tiling job.

old: (after floor, before anything else)

http://www.baynefamily.info/photogallery/kitchen-old.jpg

New:

http://www.baynefamily.info/photogallery/kitchen-new.jpg

BB


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## sleighbor

Excellent job with the kitchen BB! It looks fantastic!

Kevin


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## claja99

We are looking for the right product to install. I've read the postings regarding Allure and think I'd like a product with a thicker wear layer. Went to konecto and find that regardless of product, "large" cracks in the subflooring must be filled. Our subflooring is 2x6s (upstairs floors) and not tongue in groove. So I'm wondering how large is "large" enough to require filling?


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## usaincdn

*Trafficmaster Allure Two Thumbs Up*

I've used the Allure Oak to finish two rooms in my house. My daughters room was done last year and the floor still looks like new. Also did an office 6 months ago and working on the craft room today. The product is very easy to work with and goes done quickly. It's very easy to cut and work around even difficult angles. It can be a bit tricky to pull back up when you make a mistake and requires some strength here. I would recommend the product highly.


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## larrylwill

Was watching HGTV today, The house that wouldn't sell I think. They used Allure in the kitchen to cover some 60's flooring.


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## dougpks

I am a few weeks away from starting my laydown of Allure on my concrete basement floor ... and am still researching some issues. I have found differing thoughts on laying down the second row: cut off 1/3 laying down remaining 2/3 of plank OR simply using the resulting cut-off end piece from the end of the first row to start the second, the same with the next row and continue on. The first way is a lot more predictable: full plank, 2/3 plank, 1/3 plank ... then full plank, etc. This is a staggered look, but some posts imply that it provides a "pattern" that is unacceptable. The other way gives a very "random" look. Any thoughts on the preferred method of staggering?


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## larrylwill

The important thing is to stagger the rows so that the ends do not line up even 2 or 3 rows out. Also make sure that you open all boxes to make sure the color is the same, better to mix them all. Also there is about 8 patterns 4 one way and the same 4 reversed. So make sure you don't put 2 of the same ones close to each other. Find the like patterns and make piles and pull from different piles but don't pull the same, like pile 1, pile 2, pile 3, pile 4, etc then maybe pile 2, pile 1 etc. Try to keep them mixed so they are random. 
IMO I think the more randomness the better. Look at a real wood floor, the pieces are usually different lengths, maybe 1 board, 1/2 board, 1/4 board, etc. 
You can not use the cut pieces at the start of the next row, only the end of a row or the glue strip would be on the wrong side. So make sure you will have a place for the cut off piece. If your not careful you may end up with a lot of ends that you cant use because there too short. A dry run is advisable. You can cut twice but you can lengthen.


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## zeus9800

We had an issue with water leakage and were in need of a fix as we had to tear up carpeting. We saw this product and thought that it was the way to go. We have to do it in sections though because we couldn't afford all we needed at once, hopefully that won't screw things up. Our biggest concern is that our subfloor is not totally even due to the water damage-and the rest of it probably isn't either, to be honest(mobile home). Is this going to cause a problem? If so, what is the workaround? I browsed through this entire thread and if this was addressed I overlooked it. Just don't want to start installing it and then run into a problem.

I have to say I am also concerned with this thing about regulating the temperature and humidity. We have no real way to do that.


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## larrylwill

It depends on how uneven. Since the whole Allure floor is attached to only itself it will float over unevenness but if there are lumps and bumps you will feel some of them. Its thicker than 12" tiles about 3x thicker. I did not finish mine either as I stopped at the living room untill I install hardwood or laminate. So I stuck a piece of the paper that comes on the strips over the sticky side and put a cut piece under it so it wouldnt bend. I will remove it when Im ready.


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## zeus9800

larrylwill said:


> It depends on how uneven. Since the whole Allure floor is attached to only itself it will float over unevenness but if there are lumps and bumps you will feel some of them. Its thicker than 12" tiles about 3x thicker. I did not finish mine either as I stopped at the living room untill I install hardwood or laminate. So I stuck a piece of the paper that comes on the strips over the sticky side and put a cut piece under it so it wouldnt bend. I will remove it when Im ready.


It's not too bad I don't think. Not mountains and valleys or anything like that. The damaged area is against the wall in a low traffic area so I'm not worried too much about feeling the spots, I was more concerned about the panels going together-and staying together.

Thanks for the quick response.


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## larrylwill

I put mine over cement board that had tile on it. I pried up all I could get and about 1000 nails, I scraped it as good as I could but there was places where the thickness varied because the cement board was glued and screwed down. I nailed some Masonite, rough side up as a new sub floor and put the allure over that. You can not feel anything abnormal by walking on it. Once the Allure is put down its like laying a rug. It is not attached to anything but itself. I think you will be fine.


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## dougpks

Larrylwill:

Thanks for the response to my post. I have a few other things to consider, but let me first question your comment about "you cannot use the cut pieces at the start of the next row". If you are cutting off the right hand part of the plank as you meet the wall, on all cut pieces EXCEPT one from the first row, you would have glue strips on all sides EXCEPT the cut end. This piece could then start the next row, butting the short cut end (with no glue strip) against the wall. Am I missing something? (Maybe so.)


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## larrylwill

You are right, if you always start from the same wall it will work.


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## zeus9800

One other minor concern. I understand you are supposed to leave a small gap between the first row of planks and the wall. Won't that look stupid? I think I saw something about it being hidden by the baseboard, but there is no gap between my baseboard and the floor.


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## dougpks

Leaving the gap, I am told, allows the floor to "float". Leaving this gap allows for expansion of the floor and will prevent buckling. You could add quarter round to hide the gap.


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## dougpks

Has anyone heard about using carpet tape on the first row? I have read this but I would think that doesn't allow the floor to float.


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## rookh39

I just put the dark bamboo in my bedroom and plan on putting it throughout the majority of my house. I need a transition strip to go between some of the rooms/hallway. For example I plan on putting the corfu tile in my bathroom with the dark bamboo in the hallway. And I put the cut end of the Allure ending at the mid line of the door to the hallway so will need something there. Any ideas? I had bought a regular bamboo floor T-molding but it is much too tall to transition between the pieces. I will also need a stair nose as my dinning room has a step down to the tv room (tv room is carpet). Thanks


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## larrylwill

For a transition strip, cut the glue strip off a good plank and use that. Its enough for a transition. I used one for my floor.


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## rookh39

larrylwill said:


> For a transition strip, cut the glue strip off a good plank and use that. Its enough for a transition. I used one for my floor.


Good idea! :thumbsup: What about for the stair nose/cap?


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## larrylwill

Can't help there except traffic master makes several things to go with the flooring products, try their web page if you can find it.


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## dougpks

any thoughts about how you start in the main, larger room and then as you work across you need to deal with the entry alcove through which you enter the room. It would seem you would have to lay planks backward out into the small alcove entry or right to left. In other words laying the planks in reverse to where you would have to tuck the underlaying glue strip under an overlaying glue strip. Make sense?


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## KimG

Thanks to everyone for all of the valuable info you have shared. I have been researching the Allure TrafficMaster for weeks and I feel that I am now ready to place my order. Does anyone know how much waste I should calculate into my order?


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## larrylwill

rule of thumb 10% However if you buy it in the store, get 20% and return the unopened boxes if you have any.


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## KimG

Thanks! I am wanting to use one of the special order colors and they said there would be a 15% restocking fee. I would like to have an extra carton incase the color was discontinued in the future.


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## larrylwill

I have bought about $10000 worth of Products from HD and returned about $1000 and so far I have not have any problems.I have even returned single tiles from a box. Although you should ask them.


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## huntan

I am wondering if there is any difference in the strength of the adhesive from one series of Konecto Brand to another. There is the Allure, Country, Sierra, and Prestige series. I know each has different thickness and texture but I really want to know if there is an upgrade in adhesive from one to the other or are they all the same in that particular feature? If I spend more money will the floor be less likely to peel or come up at the seams?


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## larrylwill

I can tell you that Allure is a cheaper version of the other Konecto planks. I can also tell you that I have also put down trafficmaster 12" tiles (made be Konecto) in the utility room. The Allure is in the Kitchen. Neither are on a perfect floor. The utility room has a transition of 1/2" that I had to make a sloping board. We have no complaints about either and have not had any problems in 1 year.


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## RPG

I'm installing the TM in my bathroom and kitchen this week and had a question I couldn't find an answer for.

I need to butt the tile up against my bathroom tub, but I understand you need to leave a 1/8" gap around the edges. For the other three sides of the room there will be baseboards to cover the gap. :confused1:

Just curious what others have done.

Thanks


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## larrylwill

Since the bathroom is usually small I would but it against the tub.
You could also use 1/4 round shoe molding against it.


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## RPG

larrylwill said:


> Since the bathroom is usually small I would but it against the tub.
> You could also use 1/4 round shoe molding against it.


Thanks for the response 

I hadn't thought about using some molding. That might be a nice finishing touch against the tub. :thumbsup:


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## larrylwill

I have seen 1/4 round in plastic, which will conform better and is waterproof. Check HD and Lowes etc.


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## dougpks

Question: When rolling the floor after applying Allure ... how quickly must it be done. Can you apply flooring one weekend and then rent 100 lb. roller and roll the next weekend. Or are you supposed to roll "as you go". Just trying to be efficient/save money on the roller rental.


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## larrylwill

I did not roll ours because I could not find a roller. I put on sox and myself and the wife slid our feet along the joints several times as soon as I finished. I would at least do that if you cant get a rollor.


----------



## rusty baker

Finishing next to a tub. Most home imorovement centers sell what looks like a narrow piece of cove base, for that purpose. It has a peel-and-stick strip.


----------



## treegirl

*Bubbles and ripples?*

I'm wondering if anyone knows what to do about the subflooring imperfections that show up after Allure Planks are installed? My husband and I installed this product in our bedroom, and I love the ease of installation, and the way that it looks except for this problem. The fact that you don't need an underlayment is one of the big marketing points for this product. I would like to use more of the product in my home, but I want to figure out how to solve this problem first. 

The subflooring is OSB to the best of my recollection. My husband used a hammer to try to flatten out the bumps, but they still show thru along with subflooring seams, etc. 

Anyone got any suggestions?


----------



## larrylwill

I had a very bad sub floor and covered it with Masonite about $10 a sheet, I cant feel any seams or bumps, although I don't look for them either.


----------



## sam floor

You know that masonite is supposed to go rough side up, I assume.


----------



## larrylwill

yes that's how I put it.


----------



## KimG

Does anyone have any suggestion on removing the carpet strips?


----------



## larrylwill

nasty little buggers. Flat breaker bar and a hammer. You can get one at HD or Walmart. about $5.00 $8.00


----------



## measureguy

Hello,

I just found this site looking for a answer to a allure question asked by a client of mine.Great forum !!
I have been in the floor covering industry for 25 years and for the past 14 years I have been a Home Depot In Home Flooring estimator.
I have measured and inspected Allure flooring for the past 1-2 years and have found that it is an excellent value for the money spent. The important thing with installation as with all floor coverings is the substrate and condition.
I prefer to see allure installed over new plywood on a wooden sub floor and a leveling compound applied to any concrete substrate.I always check moisture levels with a meter and do a visual inspection for moisture/dry rot etc.
I must say I have been surprised at the finale result with D.I.Y installs i see on a daily basis.
I would recommend using a resilient vinyl seam roller along the connecting edges and if 2 way tape is applied during an install or repair. Then the edges will remain tight and sealed.


----------



## dougpks

so a roller that is vinyl, rather than metal. And also, if you use the double face tape on the edges, doesn't that defeat the "floating" nature of the floor? Maybe "floating" (expanding) is not important?


----------



## rusty baker

IVC vinyl does not expand and contract. Your walls do. That's the reason for the gap. It's made floating because it can go over less than perfect floors.


----------



## dougpks

so you recommend double face tape all around ... does Home Depot rent the type of roller you are suggesting?


----------



## bginmd

*Installing at an angle*

I'm planning on installing this at an angle (about 45 degrees) to the walls in the room. Has anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions?


----------



## Lauriejohnson68

*Installing in Bedroom*

Has anyone installed this in a bedroom with a wood subfloor? did you need to treat the wood prior to installing?


----------



## dougpks

Should double-face carpet tape be put all around? If in basement on concrete floor with SLIGHT leaking when it really rains, would this tape keep any water from getting under the floor and creating mold? Should the tape be water proof and is there any such product? Any comments, appreciated.


----------



## RPG

dougpks said:


> Should double-face carpet tape be put all around? If in basement on concrete floor with SLIGHT leaking when it really rains, would this tape keep any water from getting under the floor and creating mold? Should the tape be water proof and is there any such product? Any comments, appreciated.


I wouldn't recommend using this product on ANY floor that gets wet.

As far as the double-sided tape goes...I only used it in one place when I did my kitchen. When I installed the tile I ended up having to use a short piece (36"x3") right up against the back door. I used the tape there and also filled the recommended gap with silicone caulk.
Oh, and I used the Corfu tile. Looks good!


----------



## larrylwill

I assume you mean gets constantly wet as in the quoted response. Kitchens and baths should be more than fine. As long as you dont let water get under it.


----------



## dougpks

It doesn't get constantly wet ... but does maybe 2-3 times a year. Trying to fix source, of course, to prevent ANY leaking. I guess I am a little confused ... works in the bathroom where it can get wet, but not in basement? What is the difference? Wet is wet. If edges are sealed would that not help?


----------



## RPG

dougpks said:


> It doesn't get constantly wet ... but does maybe 2-3 times a year. Trying to fix source, of course, to prevent ANY leaking. I guess I am a little confused ... works in the bathroom where it can get wet, but not in basement? What is the difference? Wet is wet. If edges are sealed would that not help?


Getting it wet on the top is different from getting it wet on the bottom. On the top you can wipe it off and it can evaporate, on the bottom that can't happen. Trapped moisture can cause mold.


----------



## dougpks

I understand about getting it wet underneath (as opposed to on top where it can evaporate). So in a bathroom, near a tub ... and with at least a 1/8 inch gap ... how do you prevent water from getting underneath the planks?


----------



## dougpks

measureguy said:


> Hello,
> 
> I just found this site looking for a answer to a allure question asked by a client of mine.Great forum !!
> I have been in the floor covering industry for 25 years and for the past 14 years I have been a Home Depot In Home Flooring estimator.
> I have measured and inspected Allure flooring for the past 1-2 years and have found that it is an excellent value for the money spent. The important thing with installation as with all floor coverings is the substrate and condition.
> I prefer to see allure installed over new plywood on a wooden sub floor and a leveling compound applied to any concrete substrate.I always check moisture levels with a meter and do a visual inspection for moisture/dry rot etc.
> I must say I have been surprised at the finale result with D.I.Y installs i see on a daily basis.
> I would recommend using a resilient vinyl seam roller along the connecting edges and if 2 way tape is applied during an install or repair. Then the edges will remain tight and sealed.


 
" then all the edges will remain tight and sealed" .. does this tape seal the edges and make it water tight?


----------



## RPG

dougpks said:


> I understand about getting it wet underneath (as opposed to on top where it can evaporate). So in a bathroom, near a tub ... and with at least a 1/8 inch gap ... how do you prevent water from getting underneath the planks?


Your baseboards will cover the edges along the wall, and a strip of 1/4 molding with some silicone caulk will cover the edge by the tub.
There are a bunch of different ideas as far as sealing the gaps a few pages back in this thread.


----------



## larrylwill

If I were using it in the bathroom I would seal the edges near the tub and shower (and toilet, if you have bad aim) with 100% silicon caulk, the rest I would just cover with the baseboard or shoe molding.


----------



## BOATDAD

*Traffic Master Allure*

I have read a lot of the posts going back in 2008. I laid Allure planks in my kitchen about 2 1/2 years ago. We did a complete remodel. I used the sanded hickory. It was so easy to put down, my 9 year old grandson did a lot of the work while I was at work. He did a great job. 

Since the kitchen, I have put Allure in the hallway and living room, and I'm getting ready to do two bedrooms.

I have 5 kids, 3 dogs and 2 cats at home and the floor looks about as good as it did when we first put it in.

I do have a suggestion to anyone who is going to put this flooring or any other flooring on a concrete floor in a basement that is below ground, at ground or above ground level. Clean the floor with a mold killer even if you think you do not have mold. Then seal it with Kills primer/sealer with an anti mold agent added or any other concrete sealer. MAKE SURE THE FLOOR IS COMPLETLY DRY BEFORE YOU START. Just a little common sense.

Like any other project, if you skimp on the preperation, you are not going to get a quality long lasting finish.


----------



## KCAMERER

How has allure flooring held up to dog accidents. Im considering installing it in a room where my dogs papers are as they are paper trained and i don't want the urine leaking under the flooring.


----------



## KCAMERER

How has the allure flooring held up to pet urine


----------



## IAMTHEZMAN

*Allure from the z*



ocms said:


> can you place it over tile?


YES IT WILL GO OVER TILE :yes: PUT DOWN ABOUT 300 SQ ONCE YOU GET THE HANG OF IT ITS PRETTY SIMPLE REMEMBER THINK BEFORE YOU MAKE YOUR MOVES IF YOU DONT PLAN YOUR LAYOUT YOU WILL HAVE WASTE THE FLOOR LOOKS LIKE WOOD AND ITS QUITE


----------



## mooter

*sealing concrete*



zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


 We removed a sheet vinyl floor from our lower level that was glued down to concrete. It smelled musty and I assume it was mold in the layer under the vinyl layer. A friend in the building trade suggested we seal the concrete with shellac before we installed a new floor. Shellac is a natural product and I don't detect any odors from it. We then installed the new flooring. That was 12 years ago, and the mold has never reappeared. I have never used the Allure planks but would reccommend sealing the concrete before anything else goes over it. Best Wishes.


----------



## ricardob

*Trafficmaster allure flooring*

My wife ran across this product in Home Depot. We have Wilsonart laminate throughout our house in Phoenix. After a few years with wood we hated the carpet in the bedrooms, plus our daughters new puppy wet on the carpet, and it was impossible to get the smell out. We tore out the carpet in two bedrooms, repainted the walls, patched the concrete and bit, and installed the oak planks and new baseboards. Installation was really easy. We got two bedrooms done in two days. The rooms look absolutely fantastic. The seams are seamless and the look has really blown us away. The bottom line is the product was $1.79 a square foot at Home Depot. The only extra cost was a boxcutter and t-square. At this price, I don't see how you can beat it. It looks beautiful and feels great, plus it's a floor, meaning 50% of it will be covered with furniture. Plus I don't think you'll have neighbors getting down on their knees to see if there are some scuffs on the floor. Be careful that if you are going to put it in, buy everything you need and a little extra. Home Depot's supply is pretty poor. Don't take the chance of installing half the floor and running out of stock.


----------



## Punky

BB Gun said:


> Back again. 4 months and still no issues, and I did use a seam roller. Corfu hides dirt very well, cleans up easily, and so far has resisted all our attempts at damaging it (chairs with slide pads that have fallen off, dropped forks/knives, pulling out stove and fridge for tiling/painting, etc). Pulling out the fridge to paint revealed only about 1/16" depression where the feet were.
> 
> In fact, the new floor begat new countertops, new stove vent hood and my very first tiling job.
> 
> old: (after floor, before anything else)
> 
> http://www.baynefamily.info/photogallery/kitchen-old.jpg
> 
> New:
> 
> http://www.baynefamily.info/photogallery/kitchen-new.jpg
> 
> BB


BB Gun what area of the room did you start laying the floor? Also where did you get those light fixtures? I really like them and I think they would work in my kitchen too.


----------



## Canoe

*rolling allure?*

Greetings,

Glad to see more success stories than not with Allure because I just shelled out a fair amount of greenbacks to get the heavy duty stuff for the kitchen.

One thing I am not clear on. Do the seams need to be rolled during installation and then the whole works rolled?

Thanks in advance,

Canoe


----------



## dougpks

Canoe:

I have same question about rolling. I have a fairly large space that I am putting Allure planks down and may have to do it over 2 or 3 weekends at a leisurely pace. Because I will have to rent a roller, I would prefer to put the planks down with some pressure and then roll the whole floor with a heavy roller a couple of weeks later. I wonder if this approach is ok? Roll the floor later.


----------



## Canoe

*rolling Allure*

Dougpks,

I re-read the instructions and they said to roll the seams. A flooring forum (5 responses) all said to roll. 

Re your timing question, because the adhesive sets up within minutes, I will hypothesize that if the seams are not smoothed fairly quickly then any wows or waves will be tougher than stink to remove later on.

On line pictures show a J-roller, about a 4-6" wide roller on a 18" or so handle. A friend used a wall paper roller, about 3" with a 10" handle on his a year ago and it looks fine. 

That is all I know. Good luck

Canoe


----------



## dougpks

Canoe,

Thanks for your response. I have read where you need to eventually roll with an approximate 100 lb roller. The rollers you describe sound much lighter ... I had planned to roll or press with something as I go and then rent the 100 lb version somewhere like Home Depot and roll after all is down. I have about $1000 invested in the flooring planks and just want to do it right.


----------



## Minaki

*Summary of allure flooring issues on basement slab*

I have spent a little time reading through the posts. The potential issues seem to be: 

1. Make sure work area absolutely clean before installing.

2. Roll the seams. One post said a 100 LB roller.

3. There is a potential mold issue as the concrete floor is inherently rich in moisture. The floor traps the moisture. Mold may result. One post suggests cleaning the floor with a mold killer even if you think you do not have mold. Then seal it with Kills primer/sealer with an anti mold agent added or any other concrete sealer. MAKE SURE THE FLOOR IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE YOU START. 

4. It is very important that the floor surface be totally flat and that levelling compound be used where required prior to installation. 

5. The glue stops working if exposed to air for too long so do the install in one shot.


----------



## mickeyrig

*Traffic Master Allure - Odor Problems*

I purchased Traffic Master Allure from Home Depot in March 2008. I was going to install it myself but was convinced by the folks at Home Depot to have it professionally installed by one of their contractors. The flooring was installed in the basement of a newly built home about ten months after I moved in. I have tried EVERYTHING to get rid of the chemical odor that is omitted from the flooring and nothing seems to work. I love the looks of the product and it wears very well but man does it stink - literally! I was present while it was being put down and I know that the installers did not add any additional adhesive. I was told that the odor would disapate within a month. It hasn't and anytime I have guests they comment on the chemical smell. It has limited my use of the basement and it just breaks my heart that I put that much into the products and am unable to enjoy it.


----------



## larrylwill

Very strange, Mine never smelled and still doesn't.


----------



## grammyandpa

*A few seam lines*

We put in the Allure Corsica in our kitchen and it was very easy. But we have a few seams that are not completely hidden. Meaning we goofed. I would like to use a silicon caulk in a beige or light grey to fill in these seams and make them disappear. Has anyone done this?
Thanks


----------



## Super Turtleman

I installed this in my living room about 6 weeks ago (we went with Teak). Our living room is approximately 20 x 17. It took us about 4.5 hours to put it in (me, my wife and a friend). Before that, I was reading through this forum to find out more about this product. It looks great and so far there are no issues. I'll make a few comments to questions or issues I've read.

Smell - I noticed a little smell after the installation but that dissipated after a couple weeks. If you still have odor issues, I'd say it's a problem with the batch you received. 

Install - Cut the overhanging glue strip at the end that's touching the wall. After you get your first row down, make sure you stagger the planks to keep a pattern from developing. It's also a VERY good idea to mix the planks from different boxes together to spread out any differences in product color. You can also minimize this impact by looking at the batch/run number on the packages and trying to get them all from the same run. It's also a lot easier to remove the baseboard and put it back on when you're done.

So many questions, I'm not sure which ones haven't been answered yet. I'll try to stop by often to see what questions people have. I know for me, the ease of installation, price and look of this product made it a great choice for us.


----------



## KimG

My husband, daughter and I put the Teak down in our large den about a month ago and we love it. I never noticed a smell after we laid the flooring. We chose the Allure because our dogs were so bad about having accidents on the carpet. They still have accidents but I am now able to mop them up and it does not effect the floor at all. We did the project over a weekend and we did rent the 100 pound roller and rolled the floor at the end of each day. I am trying to talk my husband into doing my daughter's condo next. He is not too excited about it. His job was to do the special cutting and my daughter and I laid all the flooring. I did a lot of reading on this forum before we started the project and we chose the sharpest scissors that we could find to cut the planks but he still complained about how hard it was to cut the long way. Any suggestions out there for our next project? I am excited about this next project and I may have to cut it myself.


----------



## grammyandpa

My husband and I put the Corsica in our kitchen-familyroom last weekend and we love the look. We found a sharp utility knife was the easiest way to cut the planks. Just score the plank and lay on the sharp edge of a board or countertop. The plank snaps quite easily. Rotate back and forth a few times and the pieces separate. We only used to scissors for small spaces.


----------



## zeus9800

Thanks to all those who answered my questions before. Thought I would post an update.

We finally got this all put down. What was just supposed to be a flooring project led to painting and new molding. We decided that no matter how good the floor looked, it just would not look right with our outdated walls.

Stuff was pretty easy to put down. Much better than the painting. Got easier once you got the hang of it. Biggest pain was the cutting, and that wasn't too bad after the first few pieces. Only real problem area was around the heating vents in our floor. Trying to cut through the solid plank itself is a pain, it probably added at least an hour to the time with both vents. Pulled an all-nighter so I could get it done while the kids were in bed. Took about 11 hours total to do a pretty sizeable area(living room and hallway) with sweeping as much as possible in front and blow drying the sticky parts. Seemed to go faster after the wife went to bed :thumbup:

Anyway, the end result is, this floor(and the whole new room really) is absolutely gorgeous. Can't vouch for how it will hold up long-term, as it's only been in about 2 weeks, but so far so good. No problems with seams coming up or anything. We used the cherry. Kids are already putting it to the test and scratching appears to be minimal. Dogs nails haven't made any noticeable marks either. Funny watching him slide around when he has one of his freak out moments though. Could not be happier with this flooring so far.


----------



## hitman152

*How to order?*

Someone suggested this type of flooring to me and I'd like to get it. I really want to get the Light Bamboo.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/[email protected]&ddkey=Search

The problem is for as long as I've been checking, they always seem to be out of stock and the page says that it's only available online. Is there any other way of getting it? Can they order it for me at a store?


----------



## MrsMC

*Getting By*

I'm looking at putting this down in the crappy fishing cabin we're calling home. It's replacing indoor-outdoor carpet glued directly to single-ply, totally uninsulated, unsealed 1-inch particle board subflooring. The whole mess is built over an unsealed crawlspace floored in sheet plastic. As soon as I have time, I hope to insulate the floors with fiberglass batt. 

I want conventional vinyl sheet lino. My husband wants this stuff (I don't know why, unless it's the "cheap welfare tenement" stigma of lino). 

It has to stand up to the terrible flooring plus the following conditions: nine indoor cats, one unhousebroken dauchshund, and three children currently ages 8 years, 2 years, and 4 months. Daily potty-training accidents, daily doggy accidents, liquids dumped on it daily, and I'm not always going to notice it right away or be able to drop what I'm doing to mop up spills immediately.

The guy at Home Depot says it will stand up to it. 

I think he's a kid with little knowledge hired for $.25 an hour above minimum wage to say whatever it takes to sell flooring. I think moisture will seep into the seams, and the seams will peel and then the floor will start to dis-integrate (which is what wet particle board does; 10 years of living in trailers taught me that). After that, I think that moisture wicking up thru the floor will cause a serious mold problem in what basically amounts to a dark, damp, warm, enclosed airspace. 

What do you guys think will happen??? Will it work??? Or should I insist on the lino????


----------



## larrylwill

Sounds like a good place for a concrete or stainless steel floor.


----------



## 5crosjpc

*Allure flooring*

Also thinking of installing allure tile in my kitchen is this a good idea? I live in the northeast and have had pipes freeze in winter and days of 100 degree in the summer with noi air conditioning The posts so far have me more confused My floor has a slight ridge from an addition put on years ago so I haver to have something flexible Is lino my only choice? thanks for any input


----------



## larrylwill

The floor is floating which means it doesn't stick to anything but itself. It is vinyl so it is flexible, which means it will bend and conform, if there is a defect in the floor you may feel it through the vinyl, each piece sticks to the next so its sealed, so no water can penetrate it. The box contains the temperature extremes it can withstand. I don't remember them. If you put it on a basement or floor that will get wet or damp under the vinyl then the floor may mildew as ther is no air penetrating through the vinyl so moisture under it cant get out except the way it got in. Some people report problems with seperating at the seams but the over whelming majority don't. There are many things you can do to prepare your sub floor, from minor to major, the better prepaired the better.

My house is 1962 built. I pulled up a tile floor with 1000's of nails and scraped the old cement board off, it was far from level or flat. I covered it with Masonite and installed the Allure more than 1 year ago. Its still not level but you can't feel the minor irregularities either, you wouldn't know whats under it. If it becomes a problem it is easy to remove and start over with something else.

All this info is somewhere in this thread.


----------



## helena18

*Allure flooring*

My last two vinyl self-stick tile installation over my cement floor in my laundry room warped. I assume it is because of the moisture seeping thru the cement floor. I would like to now use the Allure Traffic Master tiles and was wondering if I first used a waterproofing product that Home Depot carries (cost about $42 for 40 sq. ft. coverage) before I install the tiles, would I encounter the same warping?
Does anyone have a suggestion of what I could use or shall I put down the waterproofing sheeting? The tile installation seems so simple but I have read the complaints posted about the tiles not adhering and am having doubts about the suitability of this.
Would I encounter problems in putting ceramic tiles over a damp cement floor ? (This was my second choice).









zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


----------



## dougpks

I would think that if you have a damp, concrete floor that any flooring you put down would "trap" the moisture, resulting in mold, warping, etc. I have pruchased 21 cartons of Allur Trafficmaster planks ... quite frankly before I had done much research on the product with respect to mold, warping, etc. I plan to put this down on my concrete basement floor. I did do research on how to install, etc., but not on the suitability of putting down on concrete below grade. With respect to moist floors, I have read that you can tape down a piece of plastic mylar (like a trash bag) and leave for a few days, then pull up and see if there is moisture underneath ... if so then some kind of waterproofing probably needs to be done. I haven't done that yet and had already ordered the flooring through Home Depot ... so hope it works out.


----------



## MrsMC

larrylwill said:


> Sounds like a good place for a concrete or stainless steel floor.


Very funny. And I see your point. But that's not going to happen. Structure won't support a concrete floor, and I don't think DH is going to let me knock it down and put up a steel building in its place (though the thought has crossed my mind). 

Unless someone can show me how to talk him into living with polyurethaned plywood (my *first* choice), my options are lino or Allure. Period. I need to figure out which one is going to better serve my purposes.


----------



## techprincesse

Does anyone know if this can be installed on a stair? I looked at the Allure website and I didnt see any type of bullnose option. I want to install this in my kitchen, dining area and foyer. All which open up into each other, but there is a step down into the living room which has the top step exposed. What can I do for edging options on that one top step?

Its between either this or tiling the entire area which I would rather avoid.


----------



## larrylwill

I would suggest that you cut off the glue strip that is against the edge and leave the Allure about 1/2 to 1" short of the stair edge. 
Then find some trim the same thickness as the Allure. 
Ease the edge with sand paper, butt the other side against the Allure. 
Glue the cut edge of the Allure with contact cement.
The transition would be from Allure to trim to edge of stair.


----------



## techprincesse

larrylwill said:


> I would suggest that you cut off the glue strip that is against the edge and leave the Allure about 1/2 to 1" short of the stair edge.
> Then find some trim the same thickness as the Allure.
> Ease the edge with sand paper, butt the other side against the Allure.
> Glue the cut edge of the Allure with contact cement.
> The transition would be from Allure to trim to edge of stair.


Thanks for the response but I dont get this explanation. My top stair has a rounded edge. What kind of trim would I need to use to go over it and hide the beat up subfloor? Right now its exposed. Most stair nosings or trim peices I have seen are way thicker then what vinyl flooring would be. I just dont want it to be a tripping hazard as this area would get alot of traffic going from the living rm/foyer to the kitchen/upstairs. ???


----------



## larrylwill

What I was trying to explain is you have to make your own. Sand the edge to conform to the stair edge so it appears like one continuing piece. It will just make the top landing 1/4 inch higher than it is and transition seamlessly from the Allure to the bull nose edge..
This is a custom fit. If you don't understand how to do it then you should get a finish carpenter to make it for you, but its a very small job for a pro.


----------



## simo mom

MN Gal - I would love to see some pictures. We are having the same problem.


----------



## Chatter

Their is a picture along with the article in the URL I submitted.
Cheers

_Please do not spam this site with links to your site_


----------



## simo mom

*pics URL*

Please show me where - I'm sorry I don't see it. Thanks


----------



## simo mom

*pics*

I was actually looking for the pics from MN gal of the floor coming up as we are having the same problem in our basement with the seams coming apart and I am worried about having the same issues she did. It was an old post - may no longer be paying attention to this.


----------



## moodyman

I installed about 1,000 square feet of this stuff in my basement June 09. The basement is climate controlled. I currently have many planks lifting at the seams. The basement doesn't get heavy foot traffic so everyday I go down into the basement to walk across these popped seams to press them back down. I never used a roller as the instructions implied that it wasn't necessary. I am disappointed with this product....


----------



## dougpks

so basement is climate controlled ... but do you know if any moisture is seeping up through floor? I guess it wouldn't. Have you tried a hair dryer or heat gun to reactivate the glue and then press down hard again and put a weight on a test area? You might try this in a small area to see if that works. Good luck


----------



## moodyman

dougpks said:


> so basement is climate controlled ... but do you know if any moisture is seeping up through floor? I guess it wouldn't. Have you tried a hair dryer or heat gun to reactivate the glue and then press down hard again and put a weight on a test area? You might try this in a small area to see if that works. Good luck


 I never had a moisture problem in my basement. But before I put the flooring down I did tape a plastic barrier to the floor for 3 days to check for condensation..it was dry as a bone. I'm gonna rent a roller and see if that helps...


----------



## Jo Hampshire

We do have a bit of a moisture problem in our basement where we installed this flooring, but the box said it was water proof - not sure what that means. The seams are curling and glue seeps up through them. I flatten them down with my foot, but the next day they are popped up again. I even tried a warm iron on the seams but the next day they were up again. This flooring looks so beautiful and I thought it was going to be the solution to our ugly basement floor, but I'm disappointed.


----------



## vanaturegal

*adhesive problem*

I put my cork Allure down in a den and bedroom (ground level, over concrete) in July. Did it myself and it went down easy and looked great. Used the 100 pound roller (than is another story...being a single woman). One week later, planks started coming up; walked on them to seal them down; came back up. Used a hair dryer; no luck. Called the company and they sent 2 bottles of adhesive; still didn't work. Got a full refund on 14 boxes after sending photos of the loose planks. Gal at Home Depot said the company had a problem with a bad batch of adhesive because I was the 5th person to get a refund recently, which was very rare. Love the floor, but can't keep it down. Don't want to tear it up because of all the work. Any idea on what kind of adhesive to use to make it stick??


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## Denise from Ark

*Allure in a manufactured home*



RLNCC said:


> I Have Seen This Traficmaster Allure Flooring And Would Like Some Thoughts Of Useing It In A Manufactured Home And How Good It Would Ware Especially With 2 Dogs And Lots Of Foot Trafic. Just How Good It Would Be To Cross The Seperation Of The 2 Sides.


Two years ago we started replacing the carpet and vinyl in our manufactured (1995) home with Allure flooring. I have a 60lb very active (and web-footed!) springer spaniel. The first room we redid was the master bath. As you can imagine, we had to replace the entire subfloor. Once that went down, the flooring went on smooth as silk. 

Last year we pulled out the carpet in our bedroom. This time, only a portion of the subfloor was in bad shape, since it isn't a water room. We replaced that and, using the same exact pattern, put down the Allure. I am just as happy with both rooms today as I was the day they went down.

The plan is to get rid of all of the carpet and put it all of the way through the house. We like it just that much. I don't think I'd be happier with wood, to tell the truth. It's tough as nails and a quick mop, with no worries about water seepage, are all it takes to make it look beautiful again.

This is really important because our lot is low and holds water, and our dog LOVES the water any time of the year, so she comes in the house wet and happy all the time.

I'd be more than happy to answer any other questions you might have.

Denise from Ark


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## Denise from Ark

*Allure in RVs*



Argy 78 said:


> Due to it's light weight I was thinking of installing the Allure flooring in my travel trailer but I am concerned about the product holding to the wood floor with all the temperature changes and our dog. Has anyone installed Allure or any other light weight type flooring in a travel trailer that has held up in this type of environment and use?



If you check the forums at RV.com, a LOT of people use it in their RV renovations, and have been really pleased with it.


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## Denise from Ark

*Used in master bath; sealed edges with silicone, love it.*



milb said:


> I would like to install this product in my bathroom. I worry that, as this is a floating floor, moisture would find a way to get beneath the floor causing sub floor issues, and mold. Has anyone installed this in a bathroom, and can you tell me whether using kitchen & bath vinyl silicone sealant is adequate, or do you have other recommendations?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bruce:thumbsup:


It has been down in our master bath for the past two years and I absolutely love it. Although it is a floating floor with no glue-down, you'll want to use silicone caulk around the edges. Caulk the edges and then put down quarter-round and you shouldn't have any problems.


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## Denise from Ark

*Installed diagonally*



bginmd said:


> I'm planning on installing this at an angle (about 45 degrees) to the walls in the room. Has anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions?


Yep did that in the master bath. Be sure and get at least 15% more product than your room size would dictate, there's a lot of waste. But it is soooo beautiful.

When we took it into the bedroom, we laid it straight. Not a perfect transition, decorating rules-wise, but since we plan to use it all through the house we didn't want to waste so much.


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## Denise from Ark

MrsMC said:


> I'm looking at putting this down in the crappy fishing cabin we're calling home. It's replacing indoor-outdoor carpet glued directly to single-ply, totally uninsulated, unsealed 1-inch particle board subflooring. The whole mess is built over an unsealed crawlspace floored in sheet plastic. As soon as I have time, I hope to insulate the floors with fiberglass batt.
> 
> I want conventional vinyl sheet lino. My husband wants this stuff (I don't know why, unless it's the "cheap welfare tenement" stigma of lino).
> 
> It has to stand up to the terrible flooring plus the following conditions: nine indoor cats, one unhousebroken dauchshund, and three children currently ages 8 years, 2 years, and 4 months. Daily potty-training accidents, daily doggy accidents, liquids dumped on it daily, and I'm not always going to notice it right away or be able to drop what I'm doing to mop up spills immediately.
> 
> The guy at Home Depot says it will stand up to it.
> 
> I think he's a kid with little knowledge hired for $.25 an hour above minimum wage to say whatever it takes to sell flooring. I think moisture will seep into the seams, and the seams will peel and then the floor will start to dis-integrate (which is what wet particle board does; 10 years of living in trailers taught me that). After that, I think that moisture wicking up thru the floor will cause a serious mold problem in what basically amounts to a dark, damp, warm, enclosed airspace.
> 
> What do you guys think will happen??? Will it work??? Or should I insist on the lino????



This is WAY better than lino. Your subfloor problems will be there no matter what you use - not as much from the water above, but the humidity from the crawlspace. 

It's in my master bath and bedroom and doesn't leak water from the top. We have crappy particle board subfloors, too, and after two years, we'd notice soft places if it was leaking. The adhesive seals the floor, and if you caulk the edges where it floats, then there shouldn't be anything that can get under it.


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## moodyman

I called Halstead International..they are sending an inspector to come look at the floor and the issues I'm having with it...


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## dougpks

A general question, in laying the planks, do you keep them all in the same direction when going from one room to the next ... like a half bath? Or do you run the planks at a right angle to the previous room?


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## bizzylizzy

*Can this be installed on stairs?*

Has anyone installed this flooring on stairs? Any thoughts?

Also, am I right in understanding you can put this over vinyl flooring?

Thanks for your help!


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## JamesM

Replacing panels.

I completed Traffic Master installation on a large rec room several weeks ago, and with evening light I notice some bumps where there are pebbles underneath the floor. So I need to replace a few panels in the middle of the floor.

I can't see how this is even possible, despite what the manufacturer claims. Anyone replace panels in the middle of the floor successfully?
I need tips.


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## larrylwill

usa a heat gun to soften the glue at a corner The corner with the glue strip facing down if you can remember.
Use a knife to pry up the corner as you apply heat. Get it high enough to use something to pull out the pebble.
Only lift as much as you have to.


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## larrylwill

Here are 2 more ideas. Without having to un stick the flooring.

If the room is less than 10ft in one direction get a 10ft peice of conduit or 1/2" pvc.
Since the floor is NOT attached to the sub floor you can slide the tub under the floor to rasie it \Make sure the tunnel goes all the way to the other side.
Then use an air compressor to blow the pebble out.

2nd Idea, hook a vacuum up to the tube and slide it to the pebble only and suck it out.


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## JamesM

Thank you Larry, but this is a big room and the pebbles are near the middle...of course. I couldn't see them the last few weeks, not until I was in there with the low winter evening sun shining at that angle.


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## JulieSunny

*Sound*

Hello,
this is a great thread of information! I am looking at installing this product in a large, open area and there is possible concern of the "noise". this space is approximately 2,000 sq feet, 16+ ceilings and currently has carpet. any feedback regarding sound/noise?
Thank you ,
Julie


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## JK Floors

Julie, this room will have more echo than with carpet, but it is a relatively soft, quiet material. The acoustics of the room will change after removing carpet, but hopefully shouldn't be too noisy.


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## Kevin Patrick

*Issues with Allure vinyl flooring*

I purchased and installed the TrafficMaster Allure vinyl flooring in my kitchen and family rooms slightly more than two years ago. At first we were very happy with this material, both for cost and ease of installation. On those two points it is absolutely perfect. However, as of about six months ago, we noticed that the vertical (6" top to bottom) seams are seperating. At first it was not more than about 1/32" of an inch, now they are approaching a full 1/16" with more appearing on a monthly basis. We have also begun to notice that the bar stools which have nylon protective glides, are wearing the finish off, revealing the white vinyl beneath the color/print on top. I would like to know who to contact and how, in order to have them inspect our floor. I would also like to know if anyone else is having a similar experience with this material.


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## Sonny 369

*Allure Vinyle Flooring I installed it on my lanai*

Now it is seperating at the seams in several places. What can be done to remedy this problem.


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## MarkA

I used Allure flooring for my basement floor(34 boxes) November 08. By January the seams were coming up on about half the floor. They sent an adjuster and after a lot of discussion refunded our purchase price with the promise of providing us with a glue that we would be able to re-glue the floor with. The glue they sent us, Konecto Repair Adhesives, does not do the job. It is again raising up at the seams. They state that since we cashed the check they no longer are responsible to provide us with glue. Does anyone know of a glue that would work for this job? Hopefully something that can be applied without totally removing the strips and something that would be easy to clean up.


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## rusty baker

I have read of people using super glue, but don't know for sure.


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## Sharkbite

zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


 
Is this Zel from Bass Resource


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## JamesM

OK, thank you to those who posted about removing the pebble from the *Allure Trafficmaster*, worked great.

The problem now though is that the areas if the adhesive strips where I lifted the flooring are not sticking, and nothing I do will get it to stick again.

I need something, some kind of adhesive to squirt in there.
My first thought is ShoeGoo...and recommendations? I only have one shot.

Also, is it true that the room has to stay above a certain temp? If so I may be in trouble, this is a rec room and is only heated when there's an event.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers
Jim


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## nightmare2

I installed this flooring in my basement and was quite happy with it for the first few months. I even recommended it to my friend and we installed it in his cottage. Mine is in my basement and it's become my nightmare! It's curling up everywhere and the glue that Home Depot gave me to try to fix it is not that good either. It's like crazy glue in a small bottle and it's almost impossible to get it into the joint, press it back into place and not get some squeezing out onto the surface. I have approximately 1000 feet of this material layed and at least 1/2 of it is curling and lifting. So far the cottage floor is good, but it hasn't seen a winter yet. H/d has offerred to replace the floor if the glue doesn't work out and I think I'm going to have to take them up on their offer. I would never use this stuff again. What a lot of work for nothing. I would just use one piece vinyl in the future and pay someone to lay it.


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## JK Floors

nightmare2 said:


> 1/2 of it is curling and lifting


I've never used Allure, but have used a similar product. One of the problems with the tacky parts that join together need to be kept VERY clean before and during installation. It can be very easy to get them dusty, thus reducing their ability to stick.

TrafficMaxter doesn't help much by provide big sheets to cover the entire plank. They could do themselves a favor and provide better covering strips that actually stick to the adhesive until the installer is ready to install the product. Until then, they will continue to deal with folks complaining about the product curling and lifting.


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## nightmare2

I'm a skilled tradesman and I can read. I've been doing this stuff for years and this flooring never was exposed to dust. It's not a good product


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## moodyman

If anybody is having trouble with this flooring you NEED to call the parent company...Halstead International. They are aware of the problem. There was a bad batch of Allure flooring produced. I have some unused bad and good batches. You can definately feel a diffrence in the "stickiness" between the good and bad batches. I laid about 1,000 square ft in my basement and about half of it is seperating. 
The manufacture date on the bad box of flooring that I have is 8/2008. I do not know if there are any other bad dates. Halstead was very helpful and concerned when I called them. They hired a local inspector to come out and verify the problems i was having. This was last week. I suspect Halstead will be offering me some kind of compensation. I have confirmed that people with bad batches have been getting full/partial refunds. When I hear back from them I will post here....


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## nightmare2

Thanx. I couldn't find the manufacturer's name. The flooring Dept. manager at H/D said he had some trouble around that time as well. That's about when I bought mine. I've tried the glie but the more I fix, the more the problem just travels along the joint. If I don't get any satisfaction from this guy soon, I'll contact them.


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## dougpks

I am getting ready to lay about 22 cartons in my basement on concrete. I don't have any moisture, condensation problems. But the more I read, the more hesitant I am to go through all the labor of putting it down. If I do, I will be rolling with heavy roller after putting down.


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## nightmare2

Doug, I never had any moisture either and layed it directly on the concret like they say you can. I think I may have a little moisture under there now though just from this stuff creating a moisture barrier. I think If I had the stuff and wanted to use it, I'd lay a plastic moisture barrier first - maybe that's why this is so bad. I have close to 1000 feet of it installed and most of it's curling up. The glue I got from H/D is like crazy glue and it won't hold some of the joints together. Good Luck!


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## dougpks

Thanks Nightmare 3 ... I have laid a couple of planks directly on the floor for about 3-4 weeks and have not seen any moisture underneath yet. In additon, however, to concerns about whether or not the planks will curl or not stick ... I have a basement room that has a small "foyer" or entry into a larger room that is divided by a half wall and a bar and that also leads into a bathroom. All of which I plan to put the Allure down on. As I try to plan how to do it, it seems as if I am going to have some definite challenges that a simple, purely rectangular room would not present. So I think I am going to have to be a bit creative in laying the stuff. Sorry you are experiencing problems ... I hope the manufacturer offers you some relief ... like total reimbursement. Good luck.


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## tphpraise

My husband and I installed this flooring in our basement recreation room in 2008 and we love it. It was easy to install and we get lots of compliments from anyone who sees it. Since installation we had two floodings in the basement. The water was about 1 inch. The area of the basement where the flooding occurred showed no damage. So when it says waterproof, believe it.


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## KC101698

*don't settle for what they have at the store...*

I'm ordering the flooring through my local Home Depot. I ordered one box of the color I like (they have a brochure that shows all of the colors available--many more than what an individual store keeps in stock). After I get it and, hopefully like that one, I'm ordering the amount I need to be delivered to the store and I'll pick it up. That way I'm not paying for shipping or the higher price that I'd pay if I'd ordered it online. I think it will turn out to cost $1.99/sq ft. Can't beat that! Good luck!



techdude said:


> I'll be undertaking this project as well. It's going in the basement and i'm not too concerned with it taking a beating. The real stuff is in my upstairs. I just can't believe HomeDepot.com wants to charge me 400 bucks online to ship the stuff. They're insane. I'll just purchase one of the few selections they have at my local shop. Currently it's only Cherry, Oak, Hickory and saw some Teak in there recently. Anyone install something that they liked? My family all seems to like the Cherry.


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## dougpks

I, too, ordered directly through Home Depot with no shipping charges. I ordered 21 cases. Each carton is pretty heavy ... I would guess about 40 pounds each ... just to let you know.


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## dinotoad

*Not approved for summer cabin or RV!*

According to the installation instructions from Konecto this stuff is not appropriate for a room that is not maintained between 65 and 85 degrees.

So I can not use it for my summer cabin (which freezes up in the winter) or my motorhome (which is not heated in the winter).

I really wonder about it in a house. My house is not always between 65 and 85 degrees.


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## handyman60

Don't use this product I just got a refund from halstead. the glue won't hold


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## Scuba_Dave

dinotoad said:


> According to the installation instructions from Konecto this stuff is not appropriate for a room that is not maintained between 65 and 85 degrees.
> 
> So I can not use it for my summer cabin (which freezes up in the winter) or my motorhome (which is not heated in the winter).
> 
> I really wonder about it in a house. My house is not always between 65 and 85 degrees.


That would mean it can't be used in virtually any house that does not use constant climate control
My house falls below 65 all the time & does go over 85 in the summer


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## rusty baker

Yep. That way when it fails, you have voided the warranty.


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## Willin'

*My Allure experience...*

I live in an old farmhouse I am fixing up. The floors, walls and ceilings are a nightmare, crooked, uneven,water damaged, peeling, name it and I got it. The house is well over 100 years old and has been added to several times by "handyman" types, of whom I suspect were better beer drinkers than carpenters. That said, when I decided to refinish the kitchen floor, I was faced with two problems, uneven floor between existing floor boards and a sloping area which created a slight "hump" in the overall floor. Pergo and hardwood was out due to the uneveness issues and because I didn't want to raise the floor due to existing cabinets, appliances, etc. 

I installed Allure and have to tell you this stuff solved my prolems. It conforms to uneven surfaces, looks good, is soft to walk on, cleans well and is reasonably priced. 

I didn't use a razor knife to cut it, I used vinyll shears which were much quicker and easier to use...they cut accurately and I think are safer than the razor.They also leave a nice edge and you can cut curves and angles easier.

The floor has been in place for about two months now, no problems. I measured the temperature of the floor and was 63 deg F last night. The weather is getting colder here and I suspect the floor will get colder this winter, so far no problem.


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## intownfarm

I have read all the posts (it took me all afternoon) and looked at the Allure at my HD store. I am a little concerned (I need this to last atleast 5 years) but I still think this might be the best product for my needs. I am putting on 1st floor on cleaned concrete slab. I have an open floor plan; hallway into living room into kitchen into laundry room, and want one type of floor to go in all of the above. With my dogs, cats, and kid I feel like this flooring is a good solution. I think we are going to do a bedroom first and see how it looks before we do all the rest. What is the best way to stop at the doorway of the bedroom so when we get ready to do the hallway in a few months we can start laying again easily? Also can I clean this floor using my Hoover Floormate? Thanks


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## nightmare2

The Manager at HD tells me the only product he's had trouble with was the Hickory. Which, of course, is what I have. HD gave me a credit for the material I bought but I got no compensation for the time I invested in laying it or now when I need to rip it up. Hope it works for you better than it did for me.


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## intownfarm

I wonder if the boxes with the bad adhesive are still out there in stores, or if the company recalled them. I was looking at Teak. Anybody had a problem with that one?


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## intownfarm

Ok after a bunch more research we might go with Novali peel and stick planks from Lowes. WAY BETTER feedback on it. Also it is about half the price. It has also been around longer and more people reccomend it after years of having it down and it still looking good. It doesn't matter to us if it floats so this Novalis might be the ticket for us. One person on that forum even tore up their problem Allure to put Novalis down. Good Luck all.


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## pooter

I was considering installation of thos product over radiant heat floor but am concerned about the heat contributing to vinyl odor. Did you ever determine the cause of your problem? Did the odor ever go away?



Prowler said:


> Last fall I laid 400 sq. ft. of the Cherry Allure over cement with in-floor radiant water heat. During the winter months I have frequently noticed an odor that I thought has been coming from my septic system. After exhaustive checking and testing I have all but ruled out the septic system as the source. That leaves only the Allure as the most likely culprit. Has anyone else noticed an odor while using this product over in-floor heat? Could it be the glue or the material itself that emits an odor as it is warmed by the radiant heat? I did not notice any odors last fall until I closed the house up and turned the heat on for the winter.


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## simo mom

*Compensation from Home Depot*



Nightmare3 said:


> The Manager at HD tells me the only product he's had trouble with was the Hickory. Which, of course, is what I have. HD gave me a credit for the material I bought but I got no compensation for the time I invested in laying it or now when I need to rip it up. Hope it works for you better than it did for me.


Just curious how you went about getting compensation from HD. We don't have Hickory - we have the Cherry - but we are having major problems with the flooring and the company is giving us the runaround. Any help is appreciated.


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## rusty baker

Did you check the temperature of the floor before you installed it? Not room temp, floor temp. It has to be 65 to 85 degrees during installation and for 48 hours after. Did you check moisture content? If on a slab, did you put down poly?


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## moodyman

simo mom said:


> Just curious how you went about getting compensation from HD. We don't have Hickory - we have the Cherry - but we are having major problems with the flooring and the company is giving us the runaround. Any help is appreciated.


Here's how I got my credit....

As previously mentioned....I installed approx 1900 sq feet of Allure in my basment in spring 09. By Sept 09 about 1/3 of the seams were seperating. I called the parent company, Halstead International, to complain. I didn't demand anything..I just asked if there was a fix. I assured them that I followed the install directions, used a roller, left the proper gap at the walls, acclimated the product before install, etc...They decided they would send a local flooring inspector to check it out and that they would call back in 3 days. After a week with no call I called back and they didn't know why no one had contacted me yet. After 3 more days a local flooring inspector contacted me and we set up an appointment. He spent about 30 minutes in my basement. He jotted down a lot of notes and took pictures. 

After the inspector left 3 weeks went by without any contact from Halstead. I called them back and they pulled up my file. I stated that almost 50% of the flooring was now seperating. At this point I was informed that they were authorizing me a full refund of my purchase price..just about $2,000. I was ecstatic...they were apologetic and pretty cool about the whole situation. They said I would have to return to Home Depot, with my receipt ( if you don't have it forget about any kind of refund), and explain the situation, and have them call Halstead International for a refund authorization.

So I went to Home Depot,and talked to somebody in the flooring dept. It was obvious I was NOT the first person getting a refund. My Home Depot in Patchogue, Long Island was well aware of the problem. They called Halstead on the spot and received a refund authorization. Now here's the kicker..because I paid by Home depot credit card they could ONLY credit my account BUT because 90 days had elapsed since my purchase the only option left was a store credit. In hindsight I probaly could of fought this ....but I basically walked out of Home Depot with a $1950 Home Depot gift card. At this point I plan on leaving the flooring in place as long as no more of it seperates. It still looks pretty good. 

YMMV.

Here's the Halstead website..

http://www.halsteadintl.com/home.html

and Phone # 203-299-3100


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## annie68164

*We've had Allure for over a year now*

I've posted about Allure after we first installed it over a year ago and have received many requests for information on how it's holding up. First of all, we installed the Trafficmaster Allure in Country Pine and I will say it's excellent at not amplifying dust, crumbs, lint etc. I vacuum it daily with a stick vac and mop once or twice a week with swiffer. The glue is holding up perfectly, no corners coming up or anything like that. There is even an area in front of the fridge where I was unable to match the pieces up tightly so there is are tiny gaps between several of the planks and still no problems. Everyone who first saw it thought it was wood and could not believe it was "linoleum"  Looks very realistic and not "cheap". OK as for the cons- it does scuff some with clear marks that are invisible except in direct daylight, there are a few very tiny gouges from something sharp that penetrated the surface. Also, there are tons of tiny long scratches that once again are only noticeable in daylight. These marks could be gravel from our driveway or toys from the kids who are always banging them around. As far as the scuffs- any furniture will need the felt pads to help avoid them. They seem to even out though, I don't feel it's a big problem myself. Our flooring is in the kitchen which gets used ALOT. At this point I am still very happy with it and found it to be an excellent choice for the money. I honestly do not see it lasting 10-15 years, more like 5-6 but you never know.


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## annie68164

Willin' said:


> The floors, walls and ceilings are a nightmare, crooked, uneven,water damaged, peeling, name it and I got it. The house is well over 100 years old and has been added to several times by "handyman" types, of whom I suspect were better beer drinkers than carpenters.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm laughing this about describes our house! Esp. the kitchen where we installed the Allure, it covered our problems too! Couldn't do hardwood or tile since the subfloor was a patchwork nightmare. In fact, I spent one whole day just sanding, mudding and messing with it to get it somewhat even.
Click to expand...


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## B&H

*would never install again*

My partner and I installed Allure Yukon Tan in a customers kitchen and it went down easy enough, but when we were done and stood back we didn`t like what we saw. When you looked at it from across the room with the light shining on it through the slider every tile was raised on the edges. Not bad but it looked wavey looking across it. Then some of the edges started to lift up. We followed the instructions closely and the tiles were in the kitchen for a week before we installed. We tried rolling the floor again but the tiles kept coming up. The homeowner didn`t like it so she contacted HD. The flooring guy from there store came out and looked at it and said he had never heard of this happening. I guess he doesn`t read the postings in here. They gave her her money back but did not pay for the installation. We contacted our flooring rep and got her sheet vinyl installed for the price of just the Allure flooring. 

Note to homeowners, sometimes the "cheap, do it yourself stuff" is not cheaper than hiring a good contracter to do it. Check around. 

This was the first time we had installed Allure and the last. We will not take money from a homeowner to install a crappy product. 

After reading some of these posts and looking at the dates it looks like some areas of time the product is good and others it is bad. Not worth the gamble.


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## annie68164

B&H said:


> After reading some of these posts and looking at the dates it looks like some areas of time the product is good and others it is bad. Not worth the gamble.


That is strange how for some the floor poses no problem and others it is crap right out of the boxes. I wonder if climate, humidity or like you said just "bad batches" could be the cause. I've had my floor down for a year or so and have had no corners come up or anthing like that.


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## rusty baker

Most of the problems seem to be when it's installed on concrete.


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## annie68164

I don't think I've read anything positive about Allure over concrete :no:


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## dougpks

I am in process of putting down about 400 square feet on concrete. I plan to report my experience when I am finished. Wish me luck.


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## annie68164

dougpks said:


> I am in process of putting down about 400 square feet on concrete. I plan to report my experience when I am finished. Wish me luck.


Let us know dougpks, I'd love to put Allure down in my basement. We just paid 9k to have the foundation dug below the footings, new tile, rubber coating on the exterior block walls and pea gravel to the top. So it's dry as a bone now and should stay that way for awhile anyway  I wondered if Allure would be a good option or not. Did you do that plastic sheet moisture test on yours? Well, good luck!


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## dougpks

annie61864, I actually had water damage from an upstairs toilet (the water supply line broke) ... so for the past six months I have been totally remodelling our downstairs basement, rec room, bar area. I dealt with the insurance provided contractors for a lot of the cleanup, teardown of accoustical tile ceiling, tear out carpet, etc. Along the way I bumped into Allure Trafficmaster and bought it ... the insurance contractor was going to put it in, but I was skeptical that they knew how to do it (I have a bunch of special cuts/situations/etc.) They, too, were not too sure about it, so they contacted Home Depot to bid on putting it in. Way too expensive! So I am doing myself ... I really researched it, planned layout, etc. But to answer your question ... I have had the product for 6 months ... I put a couple of planks on the concrete floor for about 4 months ... no moisture. I will let you know how the whole project goes. Good luck.


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## Amigo-2k

I installed my Allure floor in Oct of 2008 over concrete floors (30 year old house, basement, previously I had carpet down with zero water issues) . In the spring of 2008 the below started. I can scrap up the glue and clean up the floor only to see the same thing happen again within 2weeks.... I'm planning to go to them to see what they can offer as a replacement ....


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## rusty baker

Allure is a floating floor. Looks like it was glued down amd is getting moisture from underneath. Or you didn't remove old adhesive from a previous floor covering.


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## Amigo-2k

I installed it. No glue on the floor, just a nice clean concrete slab.


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## Serge R

Hello everyone, other than my introduction post, this is my first post in this forum. There are so many posts on the Allure flooring that I'm efraid I won't find what I'm looking for. I have installed the Allure flooring on my basement bathroom about a month ago. It sits directly on the concrete floor. I have tested it for humidity with a plastic sheet as directed and found no moisture at all. But now, one of the tiles is lifting at the seam. I suspect that is because of dust on the glue strip, or from having been touched too much during handling. I was thinking of applying some glue over the self-adhesive strip. Are there any reasons for not attempting that? If not, have you any type of adhesive to suggest? 

I was also thinking of applying moderate heat on the tile over a cloth hoping that the heat would reactivate the adhesive on the strip. I have some leftover tiles but I'm reluctant to replace that problem tile at this time. I would like to see the alternatives. Any advice on fixing that problem is welcome.


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## rusty baker

The company recommends that you use super glue for repairs. By the way, all failures that I have seen occurred on concrete floors and I believe most are caused by the concrete being too cold.


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## Serge R

Rusty, thanks for a prompt reply. That is what I had in mind, using superglue. Now I feel better about going ahead and trying it.


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## annie68164

I would try your heat method first since it's the least invasive. I had a small area I had to glue on mine- not the floor's fault- just an area with a gap I filled in with a piece of flooring that didn't have enough of the glue strip. Anyway, I used my hot glue gun and it's been holding for a year now. This is a small area though, don't know how it would work if you have a big section coming up. Good luck, I hope the floor holds up for you!


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## annie68164

rusty baker said:


> The company recommends that you use super glue for repairs. By the way, all failures that I have seen occurred on concrete floors and I believe most are caused by the concrete being too cold.


I wonder if a person wanting to install over concrete could first lay plastic sheeting, insulated panels, then plywood for hardness to take the chill off? Don't know if that would be too flimsy or would actually feel solid. I was thinking the same thing about the concrete being too cold.


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## Serge R

annie68164 said:


> I would try your heat method first since it's the least invasive. I had a small area I had to glue on mine- not the floor's fault- just an area with a gap I filled in with a piece of flooring that didn't have enough of the glue strip. Anyway, I used my hot glue gun and it's been holding for a year now. This is a small area though, don't know how it would work if you have a big section coming up. Good luck, I hope the floor holds up for you!


Thanks Annie. That makes sense. If the heat treatment doesn't hold, it won't likely make it worse, so, then using the superglue would be the next step.

About installing insulated panels, I believe the ideal here would be the Barricade subfloor tiles, no need for vapour barrier or additional plywood. And the floor would be solid too. http://www.ovrx.com/basement-flooring.html

My Allure tiles that are directly on concrete feel warmer than ceramic tiles


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## annie68164

rusty baker said:


> Allure is a floating floor. Looks like it was glued down amd is getting moisture from underneath. Or you didn't remove old adhesive from a previous floor covering.


That stuff reminds me of Gorilla glue. I've used it before on loose chair legs, and it mysteriously seems to expand just like in those pics.


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## dougpks

Amigo - 2k That "stuff" that is coming up sure looks strange. It seems curious that it doesn't appear any of the seams are lifting. You would think there would be evidence of that. By the way, I just finished up with laying about 400 square feet on my concrete, so I am hoping for the best. I guess it could take several months to know if the Allure is going to hold up or not. Your situation looks very mysterious. Keep us posted.


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## annie68164

doug pks- just curious- did you lay the floor directly on the concrete? Or use anything under it? You'll have to post photos if you get a chance.


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## dougpks

Annie ... I layed it directly on the concrete. I ran some space heaters and a franklin stove for three days, just to make sure room temperature was near 70 degrees. And, hopefully, the concrete floor was not too cool. I rolled all with 100 lb roller. I laid half the floor one weekend and the other half this past weekend. At first, I used a hand roller to roll seams before doing the heavy seam roller. I really felt that there wasn't enough pressure exerted, so I ended up pressing seams with my foot, exerting my 200 pounds of personal weight.

Judging from other posts, it could take several months to determine if the floor is going to "take". I took pictures of the 100 pound roller, a thermostat showing the room temperature and the 1/8" to 1/4" expansion gap and also kept label from boxes showing the run number and date. All of this in case I need to provide for a claim (I hope to heck these will not be needed.) 

I will let you know. I also was going to eventually post my thoughts/experience with laying this product. Later.


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## rusty baker

"Allure and Konecto are for indoor installations only, the temperature must be maintained between 65 and 85 degrees." That doesn't mean just at time of installation. The rooms need to be kept in that temperature range at all times. The concrete slab is supposed to be at least 65 degrees, but a slab can be up to 10 degrees cooler than room temperature.


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## rusty baker

Konecto and Allure are the exact same product, manufactured by the same company, but Konecto is advertised as water-resistant and Allure is advertised as water-proof. Does it make you wonder?


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## dougpks

my thoughts and experiences so far in laying Allure Trafficmaster planks:

4 foot metal rule (the planks are 3 ft. long) for measuring and cutting

right angle triangle also for cutting

carpenter's pencil for marking cuts.

Husky folding blade with 10 replacement blades (available at HD). Change blades often. Blade may feel sharp after several cuts, but it is not as sharp as should be.

make several passes with blade, medium pressure, do not expect to cut through, you are scoring to snap product not cut all the way through. The snapping of the long way of the plank is more difficult and should be done a few inches at a time working your way down the length of the plank, using edge of your cutting board as leverage or pressure. Cutting the short 6" way is fairly easy, make a few passes with the blade and it snaps easily with a bend or two.

Tin snips or similar sheers for cutting, if needed.

saw horses with plywood cutting board (or similar setup)
hand roller purchased at art store (I didn't feel this exerted enough pressure, I ended just stepping down on seams with my 200 lb. body weight).
100 lb roller rented at HD
knee pads
door jamb saw (much better to cut door jambs to fit planks under,than cut around.)
fine bristle, wide push broom for sweeping smooth floor
sweep floor for dust and debris and then vacuum with attachment (instead of sweeping into a dust pan and leaving residue). Then light damp mopping of floor will get up any additional dust. (Swiffer with disposable, pre-wetted paper cloths is good for this purpose.)

double-face tape to keep first row stable and "in square" with room.

A good, strong work light.

And do a moisture test if laying on a concrete floor by taping an approximate 3 foot square of plastic mylar on floor for several days to see if any moisture wicks up from concrete. If it does, reconsider buying Allure and check out any method or coating that would provide a moisture barrier. Maybe better to consider another type of flooring. If you do purchase Allure acclimate to room for at least 48 hours or longer. 

I used the wax paper-like slip sheets to cover exposed glue strips as I worked the next new plank. I left the paper on overnight until I returned to the project.

Go overboard in planning (I even measured and drew layout of every plank on concrete floor with magic marker.) I had numerous potential problems solved in advance and avoided difficult layouts to insure a continuous lay in same direction in alcoves, half-walls, etc. Without the extensive planning I am sure, it would not have come out as well.

I pulled from 4 different boxes to avoid color and pattern repetition. Even then, before you lay the plank, look around and see if there might be the very same pattern that you laid in the previous row adjacent to the one you are about to lay. If so, pull another plank with a different pattern.

Glue strips are unforgiving, difficult to pull apart if you make a major mistake. Lay short end of new plank at 45 degree angle into previous short glue strip. (This 45 degree angle puts the butt end of plank on edge, keeping the flat surface of the glue strips away from each other until you are satisfied with the "fit"). Then gently "roll" the plank long ways with slight sideward pressure toward the adjoining plank to assure a snug fit. Better to take time to lay it right than try to pull up and redo! Planks are not easy to reposition if you are way off (like 1/8 inch) in your positioning.

You have to work left to right because of the glue strips. Remember you cut off the long 36" "over" strips against the facing wall and short glue strips against the beginning wall on left. I planned on my first plank in first row to be 35" long, the first plank in second row to be 24" and the first plank in 3rd row to be 12" long. I then repeated this staggered pattern. In each row I precalculated that the last partial plank in each row at other end of room was of decent length and not a short, stubby peice for instance. Again, this goes back to pre-planning which is as important, if not more so. than the actual laying. I had virtually no waste and will be returning three of my 21 cases for a refund or store credit. I have a partial box I will be keeping for any fixes or whatever.

I still plan to put quarter round down to hide expansion seam and I think that will finish it.

I am getting too windy here. There is probably more I could say ... but now I will just wait to see if the floor "takes'. It looks fantastic now ... Country Pine planks. We will see what the future brings.


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## fitchiro

I am thinking of putting the Allure in a commercial setting with mild daily traffic (doctor office). The office currently has commercial carpet glued on concrete slab in the area where the Allure would go. Any thoughts on simply putting the Allure on top of the carpet to help with added cushion?


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## rusty baker

I'm sure that would void the warranty. And it would fail.


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## annie68164

Fitchiro I had "office carpet" in my kitchen that the prev. owners put in. I tried placing a few Allure planks on top of it and it's way too cushiony. Would be really weird. If you remove your carpet tiles make sure all glue is removed or sanded smooth. Since Allure is vinyl any imperfections in the flooring below it show through. Also seems that many people have been having horrible luck with the flooring working over concrete. Hope this helps!


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## dougpks

as I said, mine was laid over concrete ... so I will be another test case. I will report status over time. It has only been two weeks so far. So we will see.


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## Centex DIYer

*Seams*

We've installed the Allure Hickory in our kitchen, breakfast room, and powder room over the last month or so. Today we did a 200 sq. ft. study. It looks beautiful. Our only issue is one bad seam where we had to cut a row in half in order to match up the kitchen to the breakfast room. We're thinking of putting in some black silicone on the seam to try to smooth out the transition. Has anyone tried this? 

We have a very open floor plan in our house and are struggling with transitions. I found the Halsteadt phone number and was going to call them tomorrow to order some "hidden transition strips." Anyone have any experience with those? 

Here's a link to the breakfast room project... our first room to complete. 

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30689414&l=4d7ed81cf3&id=1396833286

Attached file is same breakfast room with furniture returned. It also shows the previous vinyl flooring which we are covering up. Today we continued the flooring from the breakfast room into our study so it is one continuous floor... and we love it! but are a little nervous about whether it will "hold" up especially after reading such mixed reviews on this forum. So far we're about $1100 into this with Allure product alone... and still have living room, three bedroom and two bathrooms to go!


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## annie68164

CENTEX, wow, the flooring looks great esp. with your wall color and trim. I think it's going to hold up good and you'll really like it! Just keep in mind it does scuff easy from furniture, kid's "Heely" shoes (sp?) and just anything rubbing HARD against it. As far as transition I bought a strip from Home Depot and though it doesn't match my floor color exactly it does the job perfectly. It's thin metal about 2" wide, covered in "fake" wood sticky paper or whatever that is to give it that wood look. However I used it where carpet met floor rather than floor meet floor. I would certainly try Allure's strips assuming they have them in your exact color, if they're no good Home Depot should take them back without giving you any trouble. Your idea of the black fill-in doesn't sound bad either. Keep posting pics, it's coming along nicely! :thumbup:


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## bodner06

Interested in same information. I've been warned about moisure & mold issues.


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## emperor_black

I just got a box of allure for my restroom. After researching and reading so much about laminates, these sounded too good to be true. Water proof! but just to be on the safe side, I'm removing the baseboards and tucking (is that the right word?) it under the baseboards. Hopefully this will help prevent the sides from lifting up?


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## annie68164

emporor black, just make sure to keep that 1/8" gap from the wall (or whatever it was, don't remember exactly) like the instructions say. Otherwise it can buckle up. Also, after you put your baseboards back on you could run some clear caulk where they meet the floor to help with waterproofing. good luck!


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## emperor_black

Just finished caulking yesterday. Traffic master allure. My first flooring project. I'm very happy with it! I think restroom needs new paint. But that's for another day. 

What do you guys think?


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## wego

I am a new Dyi person and I found this because I wanted to get the address for the manufacture of the Allure floors. I installed it in the Florida room at my place in Florida last year. I was very pleased with it and looked forward to coming back this year. However when I arrived I found all the end seams opened up maybe a 1/16 0f an inch. I am no longer a happy camper. Anyone else with this problem please post to me.


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## annie68164

Wego, just curious, what do you mean opened up at the seams? Are they coming up like the glue failed or the floor just spreaded out abit? Hope it didn't completely fail on you.


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## wego

No it did not fail the only thing that makes me upset is the end seams were no longer tite as they where when it was installed. it gets very hot here so I am not sure if that is the problem. I learned in school that heat expands not shrinks.I sure hope you have better luck


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## emperor_black

From the directions on the box, these seem just like traditional laminates. They need to be acclimated to the surroundings, they need a gap of at least 2 mm and they're supposed to be installed in locations with temperature range of 65 - 85 deg F. Temperatures in florida go well beyond 85 right? Nothing wrong with the product IMO. Sorry it did not work for you. I removed my baseboards before installing my floor and gave the 2 mm gap. Temperatures in my home should be within the specified range. Will keep you guys posted if there are issues.


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## rusty baker

And even tho, one of the ads here calls Konecto "water proof", the company website calls it "water resistant". That can be quite different.


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## wego

*install temp*

Emperor black:

I agree that the product had to be left in the location where it was going to be installed to adjust to the surrounding temp. My flooring had been in my sunroom for over two weeks prior to installing. The other thing is the 65-85 degree temp you speak of is they do not want you to install this product unless the temp at the time of installation is between those temps which my was. this problem has nothing to do with removing the baseboards as that would be the for expansion sideways. My problem is the length as every end joint opened up. I guess you could say I left plenty of room for expansion if every joint opened up. I also talked to another guy who had his put down by a pro and his has done the same thing as mine we are in the process of talking to the company to see if this is a widespread problem or maybe a batch problem. Can you tell me how long your floor has been down? this could help me because mine was fine for the last few months that it was down before we went back north for the summer.:whistling2:


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## rusty baker

_"Konecto is an interior product only, and must be installed in a_​_temperature controlled environment, maintained between 65 and 85 degrees F" ............................From the Konecto warranty._
This means they expect it to be kept in that environment.


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## just tile

did you say it felt hot. heat softens the glue and makes it plyable and is subject to come loose. i like the product. i have installed miles of it with very few problems. good luck


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## eastonmaxx

*Install Tip*

Just finished installing a lighter beige color Allure in my upstairs bathroom. It's not a very big bathroom, only took 2 boxes, but it had a ridiculous amount of cuts because there is a bunch of different angles and cabinets to work around.

Just thought I would share that the best tool I found for cutting the tile was to use Tin/Aluminum snips that you cut thin sheet metal with. I had used a utility knife and scissors on a previous vinyl tile install and remembered when I went to put these down that I had tin snips in the basement. Man they worked so much better! cutting through stuff was a breeze. It made all of the angle cuts extremely easy.

If your looking to install Allure or any type of vinyl tiles/sheet I suggest you pick up a pair of tin snips, they are only $10 bucks or so.

Good luck on your projects!


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## mommyof2

*Not a good product*

just wanted to let everyone know i have a 5 and 3 yr old...when i bought the floor at HD they scratched it with a key in front of me to show how good it was..so of course we bought it.

Well, its been down since AUG 09 and i've had to strip it 3 times. It scratches and scuffs badly, the cleaner/polish in one does not work. We do not wear our shoes in the house so this is not an issue. 

Recently i contacted them about it and they sent an inspector out here to look at it. He said the scratches go to below the factory finish so they are there to stay.  I filed a claim b/c they have a great warranty:thumbup:WRONG!!! They denied my claim b/c it was done at our home and not in the factory. I DO NOT RECOMMEND! Please spend the extra for a quality product. Hope this helps


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## Zel1

I started this post a couple years ago. I cant believe how long this post went on. In the end, I did not end up going with the Allure flooring. I went with a laminate for roughly half the price. The area sees zero moisture, so I felt comfortable using the laminate. I say, keep posting info about Allure, because anyone searching the net for info before buying will hopefully come across this site like I did years ago. Cheers!


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## just tile

it is the same as konecto. seams to hold up very well. but not as water proof as first thought. needs to acclimate. and be carefull when installing to get it straight. a crooked plank starts a chain reaction. very hard to rectify. but they do stay together.good luck


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## rodbevmalia

*bad experience with allure trafficmaster lifting*

we bought the light bamboo allure trafficmaster plank flooring for laying on flat concrete flooring that may get wet so was told this is the ideal product. our contractor had the boxes in our building for at least 2-3 days to acclimate then proceeded to cut a nd lay down the product and suuposedly left enough room for expansion. it looked great until about 2-3 weeks later the edges, that were supposedly supper sticky and would not come apart, started lifting. not just near the walls but also in the center of the room. we talked to home depot and they said they never heard of anything like this before. our contractor tried rolling heavy roller like other vinyl flooring to help stick which didn't last. our contractor insists that the product is cheap b/c made in china and is not their fault. i see this problem on the interent and everyone mentions halstead as the place to contact and hopefully they will send a representative down to cure the problem or simply give a refund. this was a huge project for us and it sucks that everything looks great on the complete renivation except the floor which one of our guests has even tripped on. what should i do??? glue it or replace it completely. it is coming up in at least 15 different areas.


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## rusty baker

As a last resort, some people have had luck gluing the ends down with super glue.


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## brons2

I read back on page 5 people talking about removing asbestos tiles in order to get down to the subfloor before applying the product. One poster talked about vacuuming the stuff up. DO NOT DO VACUUM UNLESS YOU HAVE A HEPA VAC APPROVED FOR ASBESTOS AND LEAD DUST!!!! You'll only blow the asbestos fibers right out the back! Your average shop vac does not have a filter fine enough to catch the fibers.


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## kmprd

I am considering having allure flooring installed in a beach house. The house is a raised ranch--its up on pilings. There is carpet there now. I have 2 questions:
1. Is this a good product for a beach house?--the house is closed up in the winter but the heat is on @ 55 just to keep the house from getting musty.
2. Has anyone put down luan (a thin layer of plywood) underneath the planks?


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## TheHeath

*Pulled the trigger, did the basement floor with the Cherry... mixed feelings*

Hello All,

I've been visiting your forum for a while, trying to decide if I wanted the Allure product. This past weekend we finished the basement and stairs leading down. 

I was surprised I didn't see more about the color contrast between the tiles. It's a pretty well made product, except the engineer that thought of blue glue strips between woodgrain...wow. 

Otherwise, the stuff is fairly easy to cut (as long as you're not cutting the length of a ton of tiles) and form to different shapes. There were a few braces we had to go around that would have been unpleasant to trim out in laminate.

Has anyone found a better way to trim out stairs? I have a picture of the stairs in an ehow article, if somebody will give me a little direction on how, I will post the picture of the stairs directly. We ended up using a relatively expensive metal stair nose trim, but we're not really in love with it. It looks great, but when we (or more importantly, the little ones) try to take a shortcut off the side of the stairs, that metal trim wants to cut the heck out of your legs.

I'm going to do a little general post project cleanup tomorrow, hopefully I can get some before and after pictures up.

Thanks for any ideas on the stairs!

Has anyone found an easy fix to hide the blue strips in the middle? I'm sure "don't screw up to begin with" would be an answer, but our basement was horrible out of square, and the floors had more hills and dips in them than the Smokey Mountains.

Thanks again


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## rusty baker

If you didn't level the floor, don't complain when the product fails.


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## TheHeath

rusty baker said:


> If you didn't level the floor, don't complain when the product fails.


Very helpful, thank you for the suggestion.... oh wait, that wasn't a suggestion at all. Actually, the issue starts with any minor misalignment between the tiles. 

The areas we had an issue with were before the road got bumpy. Further, the company actually sells the product on the premise that you DO NOT HAVE TO LEVEL THE FLOOR. It's in their own literature, and on the box. 

My very first post and I get flamed... classic.


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## rusty baker

If the floor isn't level, the tiles won't line up. From the installation insructions:"2/ You can apply this resilient flooring over any smooth, level surface. It is not a good idea to apply this flooring over a surface that is very rough""The planks are very stiff, so when you walk on them, they could flex somewhat, and there is a potential problem over time, of a corner popping up. "


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## dougpks

Blue between the planks? I just put down Country Pine and glue strips are black. Hmm. Interesting.


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## TheHeath

dougpks said:


> Blue between the planks? I just put down Country Pine and glue strips are black. Hmm. Interesting.


Yea, between the Cherry planks, they're bright blue. Sky blue, actually. 

My issue did not arise from an unlevel floor, just a simple misalignment between the planks. There are indeed parts of the floor that are quite off from level, but the product seems to be performing fine there, and we had no longer had the misalignments when we reached that area.

Without regard, I was hoping somebody had a suggestion on how to hide the ugly blue lines.


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## dougpks

my first thought would be a permanent black magic marker (fine point)


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## TheHeath

rusty baker said:


> If the floor isn't level, the tiles won't line up. From the installation insructions:"2/ You can apply this resilient flooring over any smooth, level surface. It is not a good idea to apply this flooring over a surface that is very rough""The planks are very stiff, so when you walk on them, they could flex somewhat, and there is a potential problem over time, of a corner popping up. "


Rusty, I hope you are able to communicate with your customers better than you are here. 

This issue already exists, and I was asking for a suggestion to work around it. I anticipated some half wit saying "don't screw it up" and even addressed it in my original post. These are misalignments between tiles, not corners popping up because of an out of level floor. The lack of my saying the corners are popping up should have brought you to a similar conclusion. If the corners pop up, I will glue them back down, just like everyone else. I need to hide the fact that there are blue glue strips between tiles. That is all. If you have a recommendation on how to best hide the fact that some engineer decided to use bright blue glue strips between the planks, I'm quite eager to hear it. IF you are going to further insist that I remove $2500 in flooring, put down a $1000 subfloor, and then lay down another $2500 in flooring in an area with an already low ceiling in order to fix a problem I DON"T HAVE, please move along to the next post.


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## TheHeath

dougpks said:


> my first thought would be a permanent black magic marker (fine point)


Hmmm...I wish I knew how to post a picture on here... might have to figure that out. 
The biggest spot we probably have, and it sticks out like a sore thumb from across the room, is definitely less than 1/16" of an inch, and it tapers down from there. Spots about 1/32" are immediately apparently while standing over the top of them.

I'm actually kinda hoping that with time, dust and small debris will hide it, but in the mean time, people are coming over to check it out, and it's quite distracting.

Just talked with my father in law and he thought about those wood crayons that are used to fill in nail holes. 

It's laughable, cause the gap between the planks wouldn't be noticeable in the least, if it weren't for the fact they chose blue.

Looks great in the dark


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## redraider07

First of all thanks for all the knowledge i gained from reading this thread before i used this product. We thought about the allure for about a year and finally put down about 850 square feet of the Cherry. It went down great, and the majority of it has been down for about 17 days now and i haven't seen any corners coming up or anything. We rolled it with a 100 lb roller like crazy while we were putting it down and a couple of more times at the end of the day. We have also kept the temp at about 73 degrees.

I have two questions. First, i have a brick fireplace with one side being a 90 degree corner and the other side being a curved edge. Would 1/4 round be the best way to hide the gap? and if so, is there any way to bend the wood without it breaking or is there any rubber made 1/4 round? My second question is about transition strips. i am going from allure to tile that is about the same level. Has anybody tried to make there own transition strip or maybe stained an unfinished strip to match the cherry? (if you have stained it, what stain did you use?) Thanks for the advise!


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## RazziTammi

Hello everyone! I was recently in Home Depot looking for porcelain or ceramic tiles to install in my 104 sf kitchen, and I came across Allure. The sales associate and a customer, who had already installed some and was back for more, had nothing but good things to say about it. 

I decided to check out some reviews online and came across this site. All things considered, I've decided that I will give the Allure tile-style flooring a try. 

I registered to pose this question: Should I remove the cabinets from the kitchen, or just cut around them? Will the floor buckle under the pressure of the heavy appliances ie. refrigerator, stove, etc...

Sorry if these are stupid questions...I really am dtm (doing this myself) 

Thanks in advance for any feed back!!


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## NoHo Steve

TheHeath said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I've been visiting your forum for a while, trying to decide if I wanted the Allure product. This past weekend we finished the basement and stairs leading down.
> 
> I was surprised I didn't see more about the color contrast between the tiles. It's a pretty well made product, except the engineer that thought of blue glue strips between woodgrain...wow.


 
TheHeath, I feel your pain. I put down the Bamboo in our small bathrom, and if it were not for the light color of the bamboo you'd notice the occasional sky blue gaps; mine are 1/64th" or less wide. I'd also like to know what the designers were thinking! Why light blue on the face-up adhesive strip, black on the face-down side?

You mentioned that over time it may be hidden by normal dust, etc. Maybe you can accelerate that. Similar to my landscape-paver projects where I've used sand between them, I wonder if there is a color powder you can sweep diagonally across the floor to fill in these cracks. Maybe there's a colored powder grout mix or something that is ultra-fine ground like Plaster of Paris? I know you'll never get any pencil or Sharpie in there, my gaps are no wider than a razor blade.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck!


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## NoHo Steve

I've had this product in my small bathroom for several months now, and it looks good & performs well. 

I have only 2 small complaints. First, the surface seems to have a clear coating that can show scuffs, but you'll only notice this in direct sunlight reflection. Second, in the bright light reflection from the windows on the far side of the room, I can see where 3 planks have a different surface finish than the rest of the room; they're shiny. These 3 planks are right in the middle of the room/doorway. Next time I will lay out ALL planks from the box & check them, you don't see this flaw looking straight down, but when you walk by the bathroom on a bright day it's obvious. 

Overall I'd rate the Allure Bamboo with 4 out of 5 stars, especially for a bathroom.


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## gbailey

Allure has tons of issues. But most of them are with the installation process. like big areas bigger than 25 feet should have a tmolding. It should be rolled once it is installed to help it bond better. The new allure that is out now has fiberglass in it and you can no longer score and cut. They used fiberglass to help with the adheasive failing in high humidity however it increase the strength so cutting with a razor takes forever now. And replacing a plank you might as well forget it. As for the blue strips i don't know about that. We have commercial and it just had the pvc with the glue no strips. we have seams now that have opened up over time little tiny gaps but its barley noticeable because it doesn't have any blue strips. Konecto which is the same product doesn't have blue strips or at least not to my knowledge. if home depots has blue their then that is something home depot decided on because all there other products is just pvc with the glue. Im sorry about your problem but with installation what is recommend is using a roller after installation.


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## Mr. Michael

I've installed the tile look-alikes in a bathroom (fairly small area, maybe 35 ft²) and couldn't be happier. I peeled off the old vinyl flooring, put down a sheet of thin wood subfloor material (forget the trade name, shur-plank?, something like that), screwed it in place, laid a double layer of latex primer on that, and placed the tile. 1/8" spacing, grouted with the premixed grout by Cryntel. It looks incredible, for the amount of work it took:thumbsup:. Very realistic looking flooring. I'd recommend, at least for small areas. 
That being said, for my next tile project, I'm probably going to place real tile, if my appliances' height allows.


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## kcbaker

*allure flooring over hydronic heating*

Has anyone any experience with using allure flooring over a basement that has hydronic heating in it? I am concerned that the heated floor may not work well with this product. Will the close proximity to the heat affect the glue? Will the glue adhere / set properly? If the heat is turned down/off will the seams separate? Will the heat cause the floor to smell - will it reacte with the chemicals of the floor material? 

Sorry I don't have time to go through all the posts. I tried, but there were just too many. Thanks in advance for any help!


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## GirlCanBuild

*Good result with "allure" flooring*

I installed the "Allure" flooring last fall in my 6" x 5" entry way. I found it pretty easy to install, & if you need to pry the pieces of vinyl apart, heat the sticky parts a hairdryer. They'll come apart, no problem. I chose a pattern that looks like ceramic tile, and no one even knows it's vinyl until I tell them. Due to the shape and size it comes in, be prepared for a lot of waste. Buy extra just to be safe. We track in mud, salt and snow, and it's held up extremely well. I just go over it with a mop and looks like new!


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## kcbaker

I really need to know if anyone has experience with this flooring installed over hydronic heating.


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## zeus9800

redraider07 said:


> My second question is about transition strips. i am going from allure to tile that is about the same level. Has anybody tried to make there own transition strip or maybe stained an unfinished strip to match the cherry? (if you have stained it, what stain did you use?) Thanks for the advise!


My wife and I used Minwax Mahogany Gel stain over a nice piece of oak and it looks gorgeous. 2 coats and it's pretty close, could probably have used a third but we were pressed for time, and it really looks fine anyway.

As for my installation, it still looks great and we liked it so well we just redid our kitchen and used more Allure flooring, and it looks awesome as well. Took forever to install in the kitchen due to an odd shape-about twice as long as the living room/hallway despite being half the space, even though we used the bigger planks-and we had to go back and get another box, but it is beautiful. I can't imagine ever not using this product if I was looking for flooring. It looks like a million bucks without having to actually spend a million bucks.


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## AKFloorguy

Check out Konecto's Website http://www.konectousa.com/installation.html and download the PDF file. Konecto/ Allure can be installed over Hydronic systems if you follow the outlined instructions.
Good luck

If the blue color line is from the color of the back glue strip it is fixable. Small gaps in Konecto or Allure can often be filled with the same oil based putty used on hardwood floors. Oil based putty stays flexible as the material moves from normal temperature changes. MinWax has many colors that you can use to match the floor. Use mineral spirits as a cleaner. That should cover over the blue line.
A little testing on some scrap peices will allow a better technique and color match on your floor. Good Luck


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## Jim F

One problem I read about that makes sense is the amount of waste cut off in a small area say, a 5x5. I'm pondering using some type of vinyl tile either self-stick or glue-down. Possibly the Allure for the larger areas.


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## AKFloorguy

Jim F said:


> One problem I read about that makes sense is the amount of waste cut off in a small area say, a 5x5. I'm pondering using some type of vinyl tile either self-stick or glue-down. Possibly the Allure for the larger areas.


Sheet vinyl flooring or ceramic/ porcelain tiles are top choices for wet areas with glue down vinyl tile #2. 
Typical peel and stick tiles have a thin latex based adhesive and are not sufficient to hold the tile down in a wet environment. Even glue down vinyl tiles are often not as water resistant as they could be. The joints of most vinyl tiles are not filled or sealed and tile does shrink and expand, allowing a space for standing water to penetrate. 
There are a few brands of vinyl tile that allow a space to be left around the tile that then is "grouted" with a special flexible stain resistant grout.


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## Jim F

I always have used vinal sheet in the bathroom. The trouble with that is it is so thin and tears so easily. I guess there is a thicker, professional grade available but it is difficult for a homeowner to install. Tile is another consideration since it is such a small space.


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## AKFloorguy

Jim F said:


> I always have used vinal sheet in the bathroom. The trouble with that is it is so thin and tears so easily. I guess there is a thicker, professional grade available but it is difficult for a homeowner to install. Tile is another consideration since it is such a small space.


Newer vinyls are more tear resistant. Many have warrantees against tearing. A professional flooring store can guide you to the correct flooring without going to heavy commercial grades. Something in the $15-20.00 sy price is normally a good balance between higher quality and lower expense, especially in a bathroom. You are probably talking about 3 to 8 sy (72 sf), so materail costs will not be that great for the life of the floor you put down. If you purchase an Armstrong installation kit it has instructions on how to pattern cut your material before installation, making it much easier to fit/ install for the DIY homeowner.
Good Luck


----------



## tjeieio

*Which Direction?*

Like many of you, I am considering this product on my bare basement floor. It is dry, but I am weighing the advantages of putting down a sealer anyway. All three rooms are rectangular - so which way should I install it? Lengthwise or crossways?


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## Jim F

As long as you are sure that the sealer will keep any moisture from accumulating under the Allure you will probably be OK. I would not attempt it on my basement floor. Carpeting works best, or something breathable and a dehumidifyer to deal with the moisture.


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## AKFloorguy

QuickTest for floor moisture that is fairly reliable-
Take a 36" square peice of 6 mil visqueen and duct tape it around all the edges. Leave it for 72 hours. When you pull it up if there is indication of moisture- darker concrete, standing moisture (i.e. drops) go with carpet, otherwise you are probably ok with vinyl or laminate.


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## chop883

*Allure Maple*

Wow. 30 pages of posts on this Allure Flooring. I found this chatroom when I was attempting to find allure's website to see if there were any recommended under floor radiant heat options for this. I don't have that question answered yet, so feel free to post a reply if you know of any. 

I thought I would share my experience with Allure Flooring since there appear to be plenty of interested parties. I recently relocated my shop. I was in an industrial park building with flourescent lights, grey floors, and white walls for several years. In the cold and sometimes gloomy Michigan winters, with all flourescent lighting and grey floors, it seemed just as gloomy inside as it did outside. I had to totally restore the building I moved into. It was an industrial building, but more like an office with a basement. So, it had a traditional subfloor like a dwelling. I build electrical equipment. I was tired of the doom and gloom of an industrial building, so I decided to make this new building more like a studio with warm halogen lighting instead of flourescent draub. The issue for me was the flooring. The floor had some old congolium there, though damaged. I started looking at flooring and found the allure pretty quick. The building I was installing it in did not exactly have level floors. And the Allure also floats over imperfections in the floor. We are hard on the floor, and the grey painted concrete floor at my old shop was pretty much trashed when I left there. The biggest issue is that we strip wire, and the insulation typically finds its way to the floor, and then we roll our chairs over it 100,000 times, etc. I saw that the Allure had a 25 year residential warrany and through that means about a year for my commercial application. I used the maple floor color and put down about 800 square feet. I did my office in a cherry color just to add contrast. Well, about 3 years later and the floor has stood up to some abuse and still looks great. People actually come in the shop and are pleasantly suprised and love the floor. So last year, I put it down in my grandfathers old farmhouse and once again, I was very happy with the results. It can contour to sagging floors and that is important if you do not have perfect subfloors. OK, so fast forward a year. My wife and I have just aquired our dream house. It has all real hardwood floors on the main level and is wonderful. It has about 1500 square feet in the basement however that is still in unfinished concrete. I am considering it a likely possiblity to use this square footage as my shop. If that is the case, I will be using Allure once again. If I could be guarenteed that this space would only be used for personal/louge space, I would do carpet. But I know how my work ends up creeping in and consuming any extra square footage we have, and for that, Allure is the hot ticket because it is relatively cheap, looks good, and I am proof that it can take a beating. Now - let me voice my cons. Again - I used the maple color - I believe this is the lightest color in the product line. It hides scratches well and looks. The darker colors are not like that. The cherry color in my office shows scratches where I drug something across the floor. Just FYI. 

Tips for working with allure - 
Somone asked if the wall was not plumb where you are starting, will it get out of square. Yes. Clearly. If you start out of square, you will also end up out of square. But that is not Allure's issue. I had this issue when installing it at my grandfathers house. So instead of starting at the wall, I started off the most square point in the room, which was the kitchen cabinet base. That worked fine to keep square to the other side of the room, but the cabinets did not go all the way across the room, so I ended up having to work backwards from the cabinet to the wall for a small space. WHat I mean here is that Allure is meant to be laid down in one direction. It is not intended, for example, to start in the center of the room and go left, then come back and go right. You have to start on one side of the room, and join the planks to reach the other side. Because I squared off cabinets that were not the "start" of the room, for a small space where the cabinets ended, I had to work backwards, which meant I had to pull up the allure floor as an assumbly, and stick my next plank to the bottom of the floor assembly instead of just sticking it to the top, like it is intended. Nonetheless, it did work, and I got a square floor. 

The next item is that you don't want the ends of the planks to line up. You want them staggered. The instructions tell you how to do this so that the end of one plank is at about the halfway point of the plank beside it. this is common plank flooring, and interlocking flooring stuff. 

One other thing I found - Some people have stated it is hard to cut. If you want to cut it, a good pair of large sheers (like sheetmetal sheers) will work, but there is no need to cut it. Just score it with a carpet knife and then bent it at the score mark and it will snap right off just like graham crackers! 

I like this stuff and it has been a great addition to my industrial space. My shop is now seems like a warmer, studio environment than just a grey and draub industrial shop. Just stick with lighter colors to avoid scratches.


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## Jim F

I've yet to use it but did pull some sections out of the box at HD to get a better look.It's a shame that the protective paper comes off so easily. It would be nice to be able to dry fit the panels together first until you are sure you are square, etc. It seems like I read somewhere that it is compatable with radiant heating. I think I may try it yet for some of the larger spaces I am planning like my Kitchen and dining room. For small spaces likemy bathroomand adjacent hallway and laundry room, it seeems like there would be a lot of waste due to the staggering of these 3 ft sections. I think I will stick to tile or sheet vinal for these areas.


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## Andygel

I am thinking on putting this stuff in my dining room and living room.

Andy


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## Simply Sal

Have used this product in kitchens, bathrooms and hallways.. excellent product. FYI... a commercial papercutter does a great job in cutting


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## Jaelle

Question regarding Allure flooring and possible accumulated moisture. I plan on redoing my kitchen which currently has Italian tiles with grout that is chipping away. I am also redoing my living room which currently has carpet in it. I was going to just put the vinyl directly on the tile but after reading the reviews and issues with moisture. Because there will be space where the chipped grout is will this create moisture which leads to mold? Also, I am removing the carpet, then putting plywood to be level with the kitchen tile. Will the pores in the wood (if there is pores that is) create moisture underneath the vinyl? Thank you for any feedback here.

Peace and Happiness,
Jaelle


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## BB Gun

Punky said:


> BB Gun what area of the room did you start laying the floor? Also where did you get those light fixtures? I really like them and I think they would work in my kitchen too.


Doh! 8 months later, an answer. 

I started behind and to the left of the camera in the first pic below, the corner of the back wall and the wall with the slider in it.

http://www.baynefamily.info/photogallery/kitchen-new.jpg

Actually - the corner with the dog dish in it in the pic of the kitchen prior to its new paint job:
http://www.baynefamily.info/photogallery/03-2009-kitchen-2a.jpg

For the lights, it was Home Depot or Lowe's - don't quite remember which one, pretty sure it was HD. For florescent fixtures, they were kinda expensive, but they tie in well with the sink light and new handles on the cabinets.

For everyone else - a full year later and very happy. Cleans up easily with water, and takes a long time to look dirty. No lifting or peeling or visible scratches under pretty heavy use.


BB


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## rusty baker

Sorry it took 8 months to get an answer, but most regulars are bored with this thread and don't read it anymore.


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## Jaelle

*Rusty*

Hi Rusty,

With 37 years experience, perhaps you have the answer to my question.

Question regarding Allure flooring and possible accumulated moisture. I plan on redoing my kitchen which currently has Italian tiles with grout that is chipping away. I am also redoing my living room which currently has carpet in it. I was going to just put the vinyl directly on the tile but after reading the reviews and issues with moisture. Because there will be space where the chipped grout is will this create moisture which leads to mold? Also, I am removing the carpet, then putting plywood to be level with the kitchen tile. Will the pores in the wood (if there is pores that is) create moisture underneath the vinyl? Thank you for any feedback here.

Peace and Happiness,
Jaelle


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## rusty baker

Because the wood is porous, it will dry. The tile on the other hand would sweat and since it is non-porous, moisture would accumulate and promote mold growth.


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## jnesmith

Mr. Michael said:


> I've installed the tile look-alikes in a bathroom (fairly small area, maybe 35 ft²) and couldn't be happier. I peeled off the old vinyl flooring, put down a sheet of thin wood subfloor material (forget the trade name, shur-plank?, something like that), screwed it in place, laid a double layer of latex primer on that, and placed the tile. 1/8" spacing, grouted with the premixed grout by Cryntel. It looks incredible, for the amount of work it took:thumbsup:. Very realistic looking flooring. I'd recommend, at least for small areas.
> That being said, for my next tile project, I'm probably going to place real tile, if my appliances' height allows.


Michael: Why did you pull up the old vinyl, when this product can supposedly go right over it?

Also, in the store display you could see the seams down the fake grout lines on the faux-tile. Are your seams visible? It does not like it would be as much an issue with the faux-wood, but was very noticeable on the "tile".

Out of these posts, you are the first I have seen they mention the "tile". Everyone else is talking about the fake wood. I wonder why that is? (I am considering the "tile")


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## jnesmith

I forgot a couple of questions.

Can you explain the 1/8' in gap? Are you referring to the areas adjacent to walls, or did you leave a gap between the tiles for some reason?

Can you be more specific about the Cryntel product you used?

Thanks.

John


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## jnesmith

Anyone out there?


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## bronccat

*General Comments on this Product*

Hi all. First post.

I referred to this thread repeatedly when trying to determine if this flooring was right for me - that being said thanks for all the info.

I have 2 Saint Bernards that are destroying our 200 year old reclaimed poplar floor (duh, right?). I don't want to take it up so I was looking for a thin flooring product to lay over and protect the floor without A) breaking the bank B) interfering with exterior door swings or C) looking like crap.

After reading so many posts on here I have posted my findings below after I laid a "test area" of one carton in a high traffic area. I staggered the seams, etc. and installed as per specs. Otherwise I taped down the edges after assembling.

A) Corners - I have experienced NO issues with corners raising and this is on an irregular floor

B) Adhesion - this was actually so good that it was too good. I tried to reposition a piece within seconds of placing it and it tore the lap strip off of the underlying piece. I talked to the factory and they said to try laying it in a warmer temperature. Granted the room was 68 or so but the mastic was likely colder from the night before and therefor not as apt to release.

C) Surface wear - unbelieveably good. These dogs gouge the wood floor and dent bamboo but this stuff is holding tough.

D) Color of the glue strips - I have read complaints before about it being sky blue and I will only make two comments. 1) if you see it, it's not laid correctly; 2) It's blue so you can see it. Can you imagine how accurate a person would be at lining up the edges and closing the gaps if it were brown?

Overall I am very please and fully intend to lay the 600+ SF in our den. I will post in the coming months after I have a "full room" experience.


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## FrenchyDIY

*Trafficmaster Allure*

I used this product 8 months ago and I'm having a problem with the edges pulling up. It seams to be more problematic in areas that don't get any traffic (under dining room table) but other areas as well






zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


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## fleurlady1

*Traffic master flooring*

Has anyone found a way to cover scratches on Trafficmaster flooring ? They were made by dragging a trunk with metal feet. No scratches yet from everyday use.


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## j_vaudrin89

*Pictures Please!*

Hello! My mother-in-law is planning to get her floors done and is thinking of getting this product and asked me to reseach it online. Would you be able to send me some of your pictures? Thanks



mngal said:


> Just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to Halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid MOLD growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! you have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!


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## penguindrool

*alternate uses ...*

I'm considering this allure flooring for my RV. It would be laid down on a wood subfloor, should i put in a vapor barrier? 

Could i use extra adhesive to seal it to the subfloor?

I gutted my RV...and think this would be a nice thin material to work with. I love the bamboo texture/colors.

I would also like to glue this material upright onto the existing cabinets and possibly on the walls. Has anyone else ever done something like this?


Any info would be helpful. THANKS!!


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## rusty baker

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::no:


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## Simply Sal

wood subfloor should be fine... it is laid the same as laminate.. it floats on the floor so do not use any glue at all...use a cove base or trim to finish the edges and allow for the floor to float under it.
The larger patterns are much better than the individual plank lengths..
Wouldn't even consider put it on cabinets or walls.. definitely not a product for that.
not sure about the "thin" aspect of it.. anything I have used is thicker than a good linoleum and that is the beauty of the product.. I have the stamped metal plate in my trailer.. they are 3 feet long and 1 foot wide.. great stuff for our dogs and keeping clean with a damp mop.
Hope this helps


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## stadry

*keyword was in the 1st sentence - ' cheap '*


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## Gene_L

*questionalble adhesive*

I bought "Allure" at Home Depot for a basement laundry room and elected to have it professionally installed. It looked good but several months later panels were separating from the floor. Thie installer came to look and sent a report to Home Depot. 

Based on what I was just told by Home Depot, Allure’s adhesive is not only limited in the moisture range during installation, but (I just learned) even after completely bonded; i.e. forever.

There was reference to the fact that the moisture was within limits when it was installed, but that now the moisture coming up through the concrete slab exceeds the limits. Considering that the vinyl tile underneath has endured the exact the same conditions for approximately 10 years with no separation, peeling or bubbling, its obvious that Allure’s adhesive choice is inadequate for any basement use, and Allure shouldn’t be sold for that purpose. Most adhesives and coatings have specific limits during application but far greater latitude once cured, apparently these installation limits apply afterwards as well.

Home Depot will replace it but says the “moisture problem” must be addressed – no definition of that.


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## rusty baker

Most failures of Allure and Konecto have, I believe, been on concrete with moisture and temperature problems. Therefore, I can not recommend their use in a basement.


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## KathyPet

I am thinking about using this in the LR/Dr area of the middle level of a three level house. The current flooring that is down is 12 x 12 inch marble floor tiles. Can I put this product over the marble tiles? Do I need to do anything special to the marble tiles before installing this over them??


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## frankcar1965

We installed Allure oak in January 09 and love it. No problems in a year and a half- fingers crossed! It went over the old wood floor which was in good physical shape- we're on a crawlspace. I'm very AR so we acclimated and rolled it with the 100lb roller for two days. In fact, after we laid just three rows I started rolling with the roller- that was a sight! I rolled till I couldn't see straight. We do get some scuffing but I use the Armstrong vinyl floor cleaner and it takes them right out. Can't say how much we are pleased with it.


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## Jim F

If this stuff is as good as HD says it is and they really want ot sell it, why don't they install a small section of it in their floor departments so people can see how it looks on a floor, see if there is blue showing at the joints, see if it starts to curl up after a year, etc?


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## frankcar1965

Jim, you could say that about ALL the flooring they sell but that probably won't happen- too unrealistic I think.


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## rusty baker

There have been so many complaints about these products, Allure, Konecto etc, many caused by improper installations and bad site conditions, that people are a little gunshy. It didn't help that it took them months to admit that there was a least one batch out there with bad adhesive. Some of the public will never trust these products again.


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## countrymom

*traffic master allure vinyl floor*

We just installed this floor two weeks ago. Its easy to put down and water proof. The bad is that is scratches very easy and seems very cheap but it is vinyl. I found that baking soda and water gets the scratches off and then mop with pine oil. Do not use Pledge for vinyl floors what a mess. But I do love the floor for the price. I have read that the seams will come up when furniture is in place,but so far no problem. Just put pads on furniture and its fine. It was so easy to put down great floor.


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## rusty baker

Post back on it in a few months, positive or negative.


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## frankcar1965

Mine has been down for a year and a half with no problems that is all I can say. Countrymom, did you try a vinyl cleaner, it really seems to work. Baking soda and certainly *pine oil* are not recommended for vinyl floors.


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## folmomdiyer

*I like it*

This was suppose to be a quick fix but I really love this flooring. A few years ago after doing a remodel of our living room which we laid expensive tile and higher priced engineered wood throughout the bedroom areas. We were starting the kitchen dining area. I had planned on using the same wood floor product that I had used in the bedrooms and hallway but after buying some of the products realized that they had started using little pieces instead of the planks which we originally purchased. Well my husband had thought he would get a jump and by the time I got home had all but taken out our very dated and old vinyl tiles. I was beyond upset because he wasn't going to use the little pieces so I had this sticky glue and no floor to put down. I had went to HD and figured this was so cheap that replacing it when I found what I wanted. This went down super easy now granted my husband is pretty handy at home improvement. ( not as good as thinks LOL which of course I would never admit) but as I heard very few cuss words coming out of his mouth as he worked and that is how I normally gauge our projects level. That was 2 years ago. It looked so much better then I thought it would and has standed up very well in the kitchen. I wish I could say the same for the expensive tile and wood floors. If I had my way I would replace those with this product. Ours is the darker version and I have made a couple of scratches but trust little marker to care of it and no body can tell. Is it the end all for everyone maybe not. But would recommend the product? Yes!


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## glamgirrl

*Can I use Allure in my porch?*

I've used Corfu Allure in my bathroom- over a year ago, with no problems..it still looks great! I do reccommend using caulking around teh tub & toilet area though.

Now I'm working on my porch- it's totally enclosed, but since it was added onto the house I think it's built over nothing...not insulated, probably just dirt under it. There's currently no heat going into this room, but I just found a floor vent under the old yucky lino & carpet I pulled up. So I might be able to have SOME heat going into the room this winter...I live in Eastern Ontario, so it does get COLD! I have to check the basement- the pipe to there must be closed off..?

I want to use the hickory planks, but I'm concerned now about the temperature changes....the current subfloor is T&G boards and some plywood (looks like it was repaired at some point). 

What do y'all think? Should I go ahead, or do you have any other ideas? I don't know what else I could use there- it's not entirely level, and it is an entrance so the waterproof aspect is appealing....


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## rusty baker

It's not "water proof" it's "water resistant". And it's recommended that it be installed in an environment that is maintained at 65-85F. Will it work where you want to put it? Who knows?


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## TrafficCopSmith

mngal said:


> Just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to Halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid MOLD growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! you have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!


Wow... sorry to hear you had such a bad experience!


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## WCliff

*Just installed it*

Just installed the Teak planks in my hall (1st floor, above basement). Incredibly easy to put down--but very difficult to pull apart once stuck (which is probably a good thing for long life). I was able to pull one up and stick it back after getting a slight space between two, but it was not easy. I think carefully warming with a hair dryer would have made it easier. Floor looks magnificent; we'll see how long it holds up. At the price, and the ease of installation, you can afford to replace it in a few years if needed. Also, very low odor--I could hardly smell it; my wife noticed some smell, but not nearly as bad as new carpet or other vinyl flooring I've used.

For those who say it came apart--could have been due to getting dust or something on the glue--the slightest amount of dust or sawdust on the glue takes away all the "stickiness" immediately, and it is not recoverable. Do not leave this stuff in a room where you are sawing, sanding, etc, especially sheet rock, before putting it down--the glue will be ruined.
Keep a ready supply of knife blades; I went through three blades putting down 4 1/2 boxes.


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## rockeee

I would love to see pics. I am considering this product. I am thinking of using it on a plywood subfloor with a crawl space type foundation. Thanks for the info!


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## antv20

Jim F said:


> If this stuff is as good as HD says it is and they really want ot sell it, why don't they install a small section of it in their floor departments so people can see how it looks on a floor, see if there is blue showing at the joints, see if it starts to curl up after a year, etc?


My local Home Depot has it installed in their breakroom, which they encourage customers to take a look at it. It's located in the same hallway as the restrooms are for the most part. 

I installed the oak in a hallway after one of my dogs destroyed the carpet. The dog frayed the edge of the carpet from an adjoining room into the hallway. 




The floor has been down for over 2 years and had exactly 0 issues with it. It is installed in a manufactured home and the floor was not rolled. Now keep in mind by Boston Terrier likes to run like a mad dog from one end of the house to the other....and my daughter has run her walker acrossed it many times. Seems to be holding up great.

My parents have this type of flooring in 2 bedrooms of their home and they have had exactly 0 issues. 

I could not be more pleased with the flooring. We lost power during an ice storm the winter before last and the cold had no effect on the floor. 

My wife and I are planning on using this in our living room, den, and bedroom. Between those 3 rooms we will use over a 1000 sq. ft.


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## tripleXJ

rusty baker said:


> It's not "water proof" it's "water resistant". And it's recommended that it be installed in an environment that is maintained at 65-85F. Will it work where you want to put it? Who knows?


With all due respect to your experience in the field, below are quotes from the Allure Installation manual that came with the product. The manufacturer claims that the product is "waterproof" and that temperature is only important during installation. 

*allure* is waterproof so it can be installed directly over concrete floors in the basement.

Waterproof: We just don’t care if there is moisture of any kind present. Go ahead and install *allure* before the roof is on your house in a monsoon. You will be miserable but your patented GripStrip will be happy!

Heat and cold resistant: *allure* planks can be frozen without damage. Our adhesive can get down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (or -10 degrees Celsius).You can put *allure* in the freezer, I don’t know why you would, but be our guest. *allure* can take the heat and definitely can stay in the kitchen — but if you let your home get over 95º F for an extended period of time, you will damage the floor and melt the adhesive-

IMPORTANT NOTE: Room temperature when installing allure. Please make
sure your thermostat is set above 60º F and below 85º F when installing
allure. Room temperature is important!


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## rusty baker

You are right. But that was recently changed. When I posted the above, I took it directly out of their installation manual. This is not the first time they have changed the rules. And they will again.


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## tjeieio

*Trafficmaster Allure Flooring*

I just finished my basement remodel project, thanks in part to advice I received here. I read all the posts before installing Trafficmaster Allure flooring from Home Depot. I even asked "the other guys" about this product. Of course, they had nothing good to say about it since they didn't carry it. Interestingly, about a month later, they began to carry a similar product.

Bottom line: the flooring went down so easily, I could not believe how great it looked afterwards. We had about 850 square feet to cover and did it over three days. My wife and I teamed up - I would cut the end pieces and she would lay the full length strips. She was going so fast, I could barely keep up with her.

When it was done, we were amazed at how well it looked. Friends thought it was real wood and commented on the professional look of it. It has been down for about a month now and we are more happy with it than we could imagine.

Total cost was about $1,600 and we have most of a box left. It required almost no prep work and went down super easy. The greatest aspect was the ability to score it with a razor knife and break it cleanly. It gets my hearty recommendation. (Too bad I don't get paid to say that.) :thumbsup:


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## TMP

put down a 1000 sq in the basement and have no problems with separation. smooth installation.


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## emperor_black

Has anybody installed it in a kitchen? i'm planning to lay it over the existing laminate because no one wants to remove the laminate and I surely dont want to do it myself.


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## klutz

*Fantastic*

I used the Allure in my living room and now in my bedroom. At less than $2.00 per square foot it is generally less than most hardwoods although more than cheaper click in place laminates. The greatest benefit, however, is that it is almost completely resistant to moisture. With a dog and 4 cats, this is VERY important. Pee (or poo) where they will, cleanup is a breeze. Installation is also a breeze. Once you get the hang of it, lining the strips up is simple. Don't press down too hard at first and realigning strips is no problem. Only downside for me is the lack of transition materials.


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## retired guy 60

The installation of Allure looks very do it yourself friendly and I'm sure that the finished product is attractive once it is installed. I question whether it will look just as good after two or more years. And the warning not to put it on a basement concrete floor is sound advice. If the material doesn't allow the concrete to breathe the underside of Allure may well look like a lab experiment gone wild.


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## Bigben58

*Trafficmaster Allure*

I put this in our kitchen about 5 years ago. It has worn extremely well. We liked it so much, 2 years later, we put it in the hall and bathroom. This year we put it in the dining room and one bedroom. I had to remove a couple of the old tiles in the hall that were cut off in the doorway, and install new ones in order to continue the pattern into the bedroom. There was no problem removing them, just a constant gentle pulling to get them apart. We absolutely love the floor. We have had no issues.
My daughter had them put down in her hair salon. I think the person put them too tight to the walls. They have expanded and puckered up in the middle of the floor. I have cut away the drywall at the bottom of the wall to give the floor room to expand. It hasn't moved in a couple days. I'm wondering if the tile hasn't stretched and now it might not go back. Is that possible? The shop is closed for a week, so I have turned up the air conditioning to try to remove any humidity in the salon. If nothing happens, I'm afraid I will have to remove about half of the tiles and install new ones. They have only been down about 1 1/2 months. I will re-post in the near future.


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## spaceman spif

I'm looking at using this flooring in a bedroom in a basement. Has anyone had any problems with heavy furniture on it such as beds or dressers?


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## nymickey

*Allure Resilient Flooring*

To Anyone and Everyone (especially Mr. Rusty Baker):

I live in Marietta, GA where temps go below freezing just a few days a year and over 85 a LOT of days. I have a 14 x 20 screened in porch. It has "outdoor" carpeting, which stains easily due to 2 dogs constantly bringing in mud, a few stains and a few spots where the seam is coming up when you vacuum it. It was originally a concrete patio that was built into a screened porch. The handyman that built it put plywood on top of the concrete to level it and put on 3 heavy coats of a high quality waterproof protectant product before gluing down the carpet. I'd like to rip up the carpet and put this Allure thing down. Two questions ... and I'm afraid the answers will NOT be what I want to hear ... can this product be used for a screened porch based on the temps I listed? Will it hold up to 2 dogs and patio chairs that are used and moved around a lot?


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## new projects

*Allure flooring*



zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


I just installed this flooring in the bathroom. there is a plastic coating over it that rippled up the next day. It seems as if you pulled on it it would run the whole plank(s). I`ve read alot of articles on Allure and not one had this problem. I also notice a wave like action throughout the floor. Where the clue strips are it seems too be thinner than the rest of the planks. Very noticeable when the lights are not bright light. Home Depot says nothing about this. The floor will have to be taken up & replaced. Too bad it looked like a great alternative.


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## lyndaweeden

*Only good things to tell about allure flooring!*



zel said:


> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?


My definitely "unhandy" sister installed this in her whole downstairs on slab. It is beautiful and they love it so much that we are about to use it in our kitchen renovation. They love the watertight features. It's been down for the better part of a year now with absolutely nothing bad to say about it. If you don't tell people it's "the cheap stuff" they go on about your floors forever!:thumbsup:


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## rusty baker

Just be aware, as with any vinyl product when placed on a slab, it can produce mold growth, if there is moisture in the slab.


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## sammy919

*Odor of Allure flooring*

Read through most of the posts and found only a couple that address the smell of the tile. Seems that most people buy the wood look and not the tile look. I took a box of the Sedona tile home last week and left it open in our cathedral ceiling family room and still had a strong odor after about three days. Took it back to the store and lady at the return counter said that she had installed it in her bathroom and the smell dissipated in a couple of days.
I smelled the wood look planks and they have no odor that I could tell. The young man at the flooring department went through the boxes with me and he agreed that there was a definite odor to the tile look (we must have looked like a couple of loons sticking our noses in the boxes and tile planks!:jester.
Just would like to know if anyone has the same experience and if the odor really does go away after a few days. We have totally renovated our kitchen and put a lot of work into it. Hate to ruin the effort with a bad smelling floor.


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## jricharc

I am considering installing this product in my basement over concrete, I know folks have advised against this but I plan on painting the floor with a "garage floor" paint. Do you think this will work with keeping the moisture from seeping up through the floor? 

Or is a typical "fold-n-lock" laminate a better solution?


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## dougpks

I put Allure down on my concrete basement floor 10 months ago and, so far, no problems. But who knows what is underneath. Before doing so, I tape an approximate 2x2 piece of mylar to the floor and let it sit for 3 days. If moisture was going to come up it would wick to the mylar. There was no moisture on the mylar, so I proceeded. Floor looks wonderful. Good luck.


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## jricharc

dougpks said:


> I put Allure down on my concrete basement floor 10 months ago and, so far, no problems. But who knows what is underneath. Before doing so, I tape an approximate 2x2 piece of mylar to the floor and let it sit for 3 days. If moisture was going to come up it would wick to the mylar. There was no moisture on the mylar, so I proceeded. Floor looks wonderful. Good luck.


Thanks for the advice, I will tape a 6"x6" square of 6mil plastic down and see if any moisture develops over a weeks time. Even if not I still plan on painting the concrete to help deter any moisture from coming up.


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## dougpks

My mylar was 2x2 *feet. *You might want to try a bit larger piece than 6 inch square. Don't know if it would make a difference. Just seems that a bigger piece would be appropriate.


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## jricharc

Will do thanks! :thumbup:


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## dougpks

If you are going to go to the trouble of painting the floor, you might want to check out an alterative to regular paint ... I think there is a moisture/mold inhibitor type paint that would be more suitable. Check with your local HD or Lowes or paint store. Just seems like I have read about this before.


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## dougpks

Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 38 









*Thoughts and opinions on "Trafficmaster Allure" flooring from Home Depot?*


my thoughts and experiences so far in laying Allure Trafficmaster planks:

4 foot metal rule (the planks are 3 ft. long) for measuring and cutting

right angle triangle also for cutting

carpenter's pencil for marking cuts.

Husky folding blade with 10 replacement blades (available at HD). Change blades often. Blade may feel sharp after several cuts, but it is not as sharp as should be.

make several passes with blade, medium pressure, do not expect to cut through, you are scoring to snap product not cut all the way through. The snapping of the long way of the plank is more difficult and should be done a few inches at a time working your way down the length of the plank, using edge of your cutting board as leverage or pressure. Cutting the short 6" way is fairly easy, make a few passes with the blade and it snaps easily with a bend or two.

Tin snips or similar sheers for cutting, if needed.

saw horses with plywood cutting board (or similar setup)
hand roller purchased at art store (I didn't feel this exerted enough pressure, I ended just stepping down on seams with my 200 lb. body weight).
100 lb roller rented at HD
knee pads
door jamb saw (much better to cut door jambs to fit planks under,than cut around.)
fine bristle, wide push broom for sweeping smooth floor
sweep floor for dust and debris and then vacuum with attachment (instead of sweeping into a dust pan and leaving residue). Then light damp mopping of floor will get up any additional dust. (Swiffer with disposable, pre-wetted paper cloths is good for this purpose.)

double-face tape to keep first row stable and "in square" with room.

A good, strong work light.

And do a moisture test if laying on a concrete floor by taping an approximate 3 foot square of plastic mylar on floor for several days to see if any moisture wicks up from concrete. If it does, reconsider buying Allure and check out any method or coating that would provide a moisture barrier. Maybe better to consider another type of flooring. If you do purchase Allure acclimate to room for at least 48 hours or longer. 

I used the wax paper-like slip sheets to cover exposed glue strips as I worked the next new plank. I left the paper on overnight until I returned to the project.

Go overboard in planning (I even measured and drew layout of every plank on concrete floor with magic marker.) I had numerous potential problems solved in advance and avoided difficult layouts to insure a continuous lay in same direction in alcoves, half-walls, etc. Without the extensive planning I am sure, it would not have come out as well.

I pulled from 4 different boxes to avoid color and pattern repetition. Even then, before you lay the plank, look around and see if there might be the very same pattern that you laid in the previous row adjacent to the one you are about to lay. If so, pull another plank with a different pattern.

Glue strips are unforgiving, difficult to pull apart if you make a major mistake. Lay short end of new plank at 45 degree angle into previous short glue strip. (This 45 degree angle puts the butt end of plank on edge, keeping the flat surface of the glue strips away from each other until you are satisfied with the "fit"). Then gently "roll" the plank long ways with slight sideward pressure toward the adjoining plank to assure a snug fit. Better to take time to lay it right than try to pull up and redo! Planks are not easy to reposition if you are way off (like 1/8 inch) in your positioning.

You have to work left to right because of the glue strips. Remember you cut off the long 36" "over" strips against the facing wall and short glue strips against the beginning wall on left. I planned on my first plank in first row to be 35" long, the first plank in second row to be 24" and the first plank in 3rd row to be 12" long. I then repeated this staggered pattern. In each row I precalculated that the last partial plank in each row at other end of room was of decent length and not a short, stubby peice for instance. Again, this goes back to pre-planning which is as important, if not more so. than the actual laying. I had virtually no waste and will be returning three of my 21 cases for a refund or store credit. I have a partial box I will be keeping for any fixes or whatever.

I still plan to put quarter round down to hide expansion seam and I think that will finish it.

I am getting too windy here. There is probably more I could say ... but now I will just wait to see if the floor "takes'. It looks fantastic now ... Country Pine planks. We will see what the future brings. 
_Last edited by dougpks; 12-23-2009 at 04:39 PM. _


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## jrs

*allure vinyl flooring*

Live in Michigan...can be in 90s and well below 0degrees.
Would the allure brand of vinyl tiles work in an unheated sunroom, installed over a cement slab floor? If not, what suggestions do you have? Thanks.


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## rusty baker

You would have to check with them. But most of the vinyl planks are to be kept above 55 F.


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## akdjm

*Anyone use Allure Ultra yet?*

Long time reader/first time poster. 

I have read all 34 pages of posts for the Allure flooring and can't tell you how helpful it has been. Thank you everyone! I have two questions that I hope you all can help me out with *1) Has anyone has used the new Allure Ultra product? And if so did you like it?* It's a little more expensive but it locks together with a tongue and grove instead of glue strips that seem to be giving people (except the 82 year old lady) so many problems so I am gravitating toward that. 

We are thinking of installing it in the portion of our basement that we use as a work out room. I will absolutely test the floor by covering it with 6 mil plastic over a few days to see if we have moisture issues and I plan to clean the floor with bleach and seal it with mold prohibiting sealer anyway. We also run a dehumidifier down there 24/7. I am hoping that will be good enough to keep the mold at bay. The basement floor is fairly level but if I put a level on the floor it would not be perfectly level. *2.)* *I'm wondering if I should put a sub-floor down to level the floor perfectly and possibly keep the vinyl warmer and allow air to circulate instead of being directly on the basement concrete OR if I should spend the money on a higher level mil wearlayer Konecto product since the area will be used as a workout room.* *You all seem very knowledgeable to I figured I'd ask you. What is your opinion?*

In an ideal world I would do both but I can't. I believe the Allure Ultra has a 4 mil wearlayer similar to the Allure with the glue strips (although I am not 100% sure because the home depot website doesn't provide this info as far as I can tell). We plan to keep the equipment (treadmill and weight bench) on rubber shock absorbing mats but scuffing will almost certainly happen and seems to be a problem with Allure. We have looked into other types of flooring but it is a large area and I don't want it to be all ugly gym matting and I've been told that since it's in the basement that hardwood and wood laminate are out of the question due to warping and carpeting is also not a good option for a workout area. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for your help!


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## dougpks

AKDJM: I did not know about the Allure Ultra until I read your post. I did go to the HD website and saw a video of its installation. It looks very easy and is applied in the same manner as the glue strip. Although, I have had no problem after 10 months of putting down the glue strip version, I would bet that the manufacturer came up with this interlocking method due to complaints about the glue strip version. Again, I have not had any problems. In looking at the video, it seems that the interlocking version has the same flexibility which should allow it to "mold" to a slightly level floor. (The video sound clip indicates that the product can go over any existing "smooth, level" floor.) I don't know if the interlocking would pop open over an uneven area of a floor. Best way to test is to go to HD, put a couple of strips together and bend every with way to see if it stands up to the pressure. It looks to me that all the comments that apply to the adhesive version would apply to the interlocking version except for the way the planks attach to one another. Still need to acclimate, test for moisture wicking, apply in a temp controlled environment, etc. With regard to marring or marking, I laid down Country Pine in my basement room (bar, pool table, TV, etc.) which has low, ambient lighting so any streaking or marks are not noticeable. But I suspect they are there ... but the floor looks like old floor planking anyway, so any marks don't bother me. (kind of like the old plank flooring you might see in the hardware stores of years ago.) Any marring might be an issue, however, in an area receiving a lot of sunlight or brightly lighted. And I wouldn't think you would need any kind of sub-flooring ... kind of defeats the purpose of the "floating floor" concept. But your choice. Good luck.


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## spaceman spif

Okay, I admit...I'm too lazy to go back and read all the posts on this thread, so forgive me if this has already been covered. But is this Allure flooring made out of non-organic material? Is it basically similar to linoleum in composition? If so, it sounds ideal for my basement.


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## eppinettea

*Allure-Any action taken???*

Has anyone ever attempted legal action regarding this mold and mildew situation. Seems unfair everyone is experiencing the same problem and it is still being offered in Home Depot.


----------



## Mavis

*Allure flooring, does the baseboard need a gap for floating?*

Hi,
Just wondering how the baseboard should be installed with the Allure flooring? Does the baseboard need to have a gap off of the Allure flooring, as with the Allure flooring needing a 1/8" gap from the wall in order to float? An inspector from Halstead International was sent to our home due to Allure flooring buckling and seams coming up, he could not comment on his thoughts and would not give us a copy of his infomation since he was paid by Halstead International. When installed by the contractor the Baseboard was placed on top of the Allure flooring pinching it against the concrete then the baseboard was nailed to the wall. We tried measuring the contact space between the baseboard and Allure flooring, we are unable to do so, even a sheet of paper won't fit between the area. We really need some help here.
Thanks


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## rusty baker

The baseboard should not be tight against the flooring.


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## Mavis

Thank you Rusty for your prompt reply. 
(< Happy face.


----------



## Mooby

*Help!*

I have just started putting down some Allure flooring on a basement floor (concrete), and upon stepping on it have found that it "slaps" or "clacks" due to the floor not being as flat as a pool table. The floor isn't that bad (uneven) at all, but inherently not perfect.

So my question is: Will this simply go away in a little time once the Allure flooring "settles in" and conforms, or should I stop now and go buy some 1/8" underlay to solve that issue?

I_ really_ don't want to lay all this down only to have that "loose" sound & feel be there forever.


Please reply ASAP.

Thanks.


----------



## Mooby

Nobody?


----------



## retired guy 60

What type of underlay do you have in mind? If it's organic, say luan plywood, you may be asking for trouble. Most basement floors expel some moisture. If the moisture is trapped under the Allure, the underlay will mold and rot. Maybe a self leveling floor coating might be the way to go. That's worth looking into.


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## Mooby

I've now spoken to a few different staff at various HD stores, and while one guy recommended a 1/8" thick "cork foam" or "easy mat" product, the others said that no sort of underlay should be used. *shrug* Their reasoning was that the give in the underlay would take away from the adhesion of the overlap strips.

Gah! I'm just puttin' 'er down as is and will live with the result.

Thanks for the reply.


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## tstmartin

*basement flooring*

I am looking for a flooring to install in my basement. We previously had carpeting but recently had a flood. Lost a lot of contents from water damage. I was thinking of just painting or staining the concrete floor in case down the road we have more water problems but someone mentioned to me about the allure flooring. Does anyone have any ideas for me? I heard that amazing things can now be done with concrete with paints and stains.


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## jricharc

I too was thinking about staining my concrete floor but I believe it will be to hard for children and the cost isn't any cheaper than a traditional flooring option.


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## irethedo

I am considering installing Trafficmaster Allure flooring from Home Depot in my kitchen and diningroom but my floor is so uneven with two layers of vinyl tile and some areas have only one layer while others have none. 

Do I need some sort of leveller to level these out? If I need to strip these layers off or install underlayment over them, then I wouldn't bother with allure and install vinyl tiles instead.

Also, like vinyl tile, can the pattern of the tile underneath the allure show up in time like other thin vinyl tile can?

Here is what my floor currently looks like in parts:
(see attachments)

thanks


----------



## twharton

Approximately a year ago, we finished our basement, using the allure flooring. Initially, I thought it was great, easy to install, very pretty for an inexpensive type of flooring. However, it wasn't long before we starting seeing it lift at the edges. The adhesive is not holding at all. Aside from having to essentially redo the entire floor using some other type of adhesive either on the edges of each piece or directly on the floor, does anyone have any other suggestions?


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## spaceman spif

twharton said:


> Approximately a year ago, we finished our basement, using the allure flooring. Initially, I thought it was great, easy to install, very pretty for an inexpensive type of flooring. However, it wasn't long before we starting seeing it lift at the edges. The adhesive is not holding at all. Aside from having to essentially redo the entire floor using some other type of adhesive either on the edges of each piece or directly on the floor, does anyone have any other suggestions?


Did you put some type of moisture barrier underneath it when you installed it?


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## rusty baker

twharton said:


> Approximately a year ago, we finished our basement, using the allure flooring. Initially, I thought it was great, easy to install, very pretty for an inexpensive type of flooring. However, it wasn't long before we starting seeing it lift at the edges. The adhesive is not holding at all. Aside from having to essentially redo the entire floor using some other type of adhesive either on the edges of each piece or directly on the floor, does anyone have any other suggestions?


That was about the time they admitted they had some product out with bad adhesive.


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## irethedo

irethedo said:


> I am considering installing Trafficmaster Allure flooring from Home Depot in my kitchen and diningroom but my floor is so uneven with two layers of vinyl tile and some areas have only one layer while others have none.
> 
> Do I need some sort of leveller to level these out? If I need to strip these layers off or install underlayment over them, then I wouldn't bother with allure and install vinyl tiles instead.
> 
> Also, like vinyl tile, can the pattern of the tile underneath the allure show up in time like other thin vinyl tile can?
> 
> Here is what my floor currently looks like in parts:
> (see attachments)
> 
> thanks


=======================

*Anyone?*


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## hovglove

My wife just installed in our bathroom...looks great. She cut around the door jambs and took off the molding (didn't want me to mess it up). Took her about 1 full day or two 1/2 days because it was a first time job...You can pull it apart if need be. For the $$$$ a great product. Will it last ? We'll have to wait but for 140.00 (3 boxes) it's worth the effort..(her's that is)..


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## Mooby

irethedo said:


> I am considering installing Trafficmaster Allure flooring from Home Depot in my kitchen and diningroom but my floor is so uneven with two layers of vinyl tile and some areas have only one layer while others have none.
> 
> Do I need some sort of leveller to level these out? If I need to strip these layers off or install underlayment over them, then I wouldn't bother with allure and install vinyl tiles instead.




Yes, the allure product absolutely requires a flat surface, and underlay is not recommended. Either remove all of the old tiles, or seek out a proper leveling product.






> Also, like vinyl tile, can the pattern of the tile underneath the allure show up in time like other thin vinyl tile can?


Not sure, but I imagine that if the Allure tile you select is dead-flat, then that _is_ a possibility, whereas if it is highly textured (like the bamboo), then I can't see that happening.


BTW: I used the "Strand Bamboo" and it is gorgeous! Makes all the other patterns/colors look lame.


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## hovglove

*Even Floors*

I agree , floor needs to be even and "clean" or you'll see/feel the imperfections underneath the florring.


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## FISHINSUCKS

How did you get manufature to refund your money or get product replaced? I have had this in my walk out basement for about 8 months and slowly the seamer are lifting.about 60 % of the flooring, had the planks for 2 weeks before installing and rolled all floor with 100 lb roller they are sending someone out to inspect and take pictures is this how it works and did you lay flooring yourself? Thanks


mngal said:


> just wanted to share our horrible experience with this product to spare others the heartache and frustration we have had this past year. First the seams lifted, which eventually led to halstead (the manufacturer) refunding our total amount spent on this product. Then upon removal of the product, we found solid mold growing under the flooring!! We had installed it in a "dry" walkout basement which is actually a foot above grade/ground level. We had carpet and padding down for 7 years with no moisture/mold issues. Now our cement subfloor has been compromised, and even after cleaning with bleach and water 3 times, we are still told by professionals to seal it with a mold inhibitor paint to prevent any mold spores that are still in the cement from growing in the future. In my opinion, based on our experience, this product has a flaw in it's application for use. It seems to set up conditions for moisture to be trapped and breed mold. You don't have this issue with carpet as it breathes, and you don't have this issue with traditional vinyl because it is glued completely to the subfloor or sealed around the perimeter. This product doesn't require any floor prep in it's install and it doesn't seal out air with any type of gluing down of the floor. In my opinion this allows air and moisture to be trapped under the vinyl, and presto! You have a science project growing in your home! I feel we were lucky to have the seam lifting issue which led to us removing the flooring from our home after only 8 months....what if we had left it for 5 years...can you imagine the mold levels that might have existed then?! Contact me if you want pictures!!!


----------



## tazsamlia

*trafficmaster allure flooring*

My husband and I had our laundry room remodeled and a bathroom installed. We decided to have the Trafficmaser Allure flooring put in and we absolutely love it. It has been there a year now and it is beautiful and cleans nice. We have spilled water on it many times and have never seen a problem. We have recently decided to have it put in our master bedroom because we have two Chihuahuas that occasionally have accidents on our carpet. However, on the downside, it is true that it can be scuffed like a previous comment says, but it you are careful that should not be a problem. Also, a Home Depot employee was explaining that the product used to be called waterproof until a customer had a problem with the product not actually being waterproof and that is why it is called water resistant waterproof now. So, buyer beware.​


----------



## in_the_basement

I see a definite pattern here and am hoping to get some feedback. It seems that the majority of the people that have success with the Allure flooring are using it on non concrete/non basement surfaces. Allure claims to be good in high moisture situations and so I think that the moisture is not the problem. I know that the installation instructions state to install over a floor that is 70 degrees or more at installation time and I have read reviews that said when that instruction is followed all seems well with the seam adhesion. I think the problem with basements is that it is very difficult to get the temperature of the concrete up to 70 degrees. I wonder if it would help to use a heat blower during installation in the basement to heat the joints up and help the adhesive stick? Perhaps once the heat helps with adhesion at installation, that will stop the seam seperation afterward. Any thoughts? And ideas as to how to heat? Perhaps one of those directional space heater that Home Depot sells?


----------



## in_the_basement

I just spent some time reading the installation instructions PDF that is on line. In the instructions they state that the adhesive strip is a "hot melt" type of adhesive and so the temperature is quite a big issue. They say that if you want to install in the winter months in an area that will not be kept warm enough, you should use a hair dryer, or heat gun. I am going to install Allure in my basement in late November and I am going to use this method. I feel pretty confident that this will work well, and I will post my results over time. Let's all keep in mind that the people that work for the company are just like you and me, and they likely come in to work every day with the intent of doing a good job. I am sure that they put a lot of effort into making a good product. When the engineers that work for a company design a product they do so with the intent of communicating the proper method of use. I strongly beleive that if I follow the instructions well and try my best to apply a good thought process to set up the best chances for success, that this product will work well. Hopefully I will not be proven wrong


----------



## spaceman spif

Curious to see how it goes for you! I'm looking at doing the same - installing this flooring in my basement in the winter. I'll wait for your report! :thumbsup:


----------



## SileAine

*trafficmaster allure flooring*

I purchased the trafficmaster allure flooring about a year ago and its been sitting in my condo since the day of purchase waiting for my brother to install it. He came over last weekend to install it but he didn't because he is wondering if the sticky part will stick. It really doesn't feel that sticky but then again I didnt' feel it when I first purchased it. The boxes haven't been sitting on the floor but they are up off the floor but they are sitting right up against a window. At the time I think I purchased 12 boxes not sure but it came to 500$. I'm in hopes that I can still use it since I don't have the money to purchase a new floor and I thought this would of been a great floor from what I had read back then since I have a dog.

I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a glue I can purchase for this floor. Also has anyone put anything thing under the flooring like a padding?

Thanks

Sheila-Anne


----------



## rusty baker

Super glue is used to repair it. I would think it would be expensive for a whole floor.


----------



## Mooby

SileAine said:


> He came over last weekend to install it but he didn't because he is wondering if the sticky part will stick. It really doesn't feel that sticky but then again I didnt' feel it when I first purchased it.


The factory glue may or may _not_ be volatile - I dunno, but my guess is that it should be fine. When you bond a sticky surface to a sticky surface, it's pretty darn strong. Give it a try.





> .....is there a glue I can purchase for this floor.


Do you mean to add to the strips, or to glue it down in place? You're not supposed to glue it down in place.






> Also has anyone put anything thing under the flooring like a padding?


From what I gather, that is not recommended.


----------



## SileAine

*Trafficmaster Allure*

Thanks for answering my questions. I just want to put the glue on the sticky part if it doesn't hold. I have a dog and I don't want to take any chances if he pees I don't want it to bo under the flooring.

Sheila-Anne


----------



## rusty baker

I have a friend who is a flooring inspector. He says dog urine will ruin the adhesive. I don't have any personal experience with it, but he is very knowledgeable.


----------



## SileAine

*Dog urine*

Great now I don't know what I'm going to do. :-(

Sheila-Anne


----------



## Mavis

We had a contractor install our Allure tile flooring it begain bulging in approx. 3 weeks and then the seams came up within 2 months. Allure/Halstead Int. sent out a unbias investigator. We contacted Halstead Int. inorder to get the report which stated it was faulty installation, we are now in the process of court action trying to be reimbursed by the contractor.


----------



## rusty baker

Could very well be the installer, but Halstead always seems to blame them even when it isn't their fault. I doubt very much that the inspector was unbased. Many of the inspectors the mills use work for the mills.


----------



## Mavis

Another independent contractor came into our home and indicated that it was faulty installation. We don't know for sure who paid the unbiased inspector, we did pay in full the contractor to install the Allure tile, the room was built to house our furniture. The contractor stated, "I will handle the problem, later he stated "You need to take the entertainment center out of the room." Now we can't have furniture on the tile? We are going by what the contracted said, "He will handle it." So far we are out of the money spent and have faulty flooring that won't support our furniture. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We need to settle this issue.


----------



## rusty baker

I hope you get your money back, too. If it is installation related, I hope you nail them.


----------



## Mooby

SileAine said:


> Thanks for answering my questions. I just want to put the glue on the sticky part if it doesn't hold. I have a dog and I don't want to take any chances if he pees I don't want it to be under the flooring.
> 
> Sheila-Anne


If you are that concerned about it, you'll have to use something without joints/seams. Linolium?


----------



## Mavis

Thank you Rusty, just want to have an end to this problem. It is up to the judge how this will go.


----------



## eskiemama

We are considering installing the Corisca pattern of Allure. I've seen various comments about installation, location in the house, room temperature, dogs, etc. but no one seems to have made any comments about it's odor... I only bring this up as I have seen elsewhere on the Internet that folks have had MAJOR issues with this product emitting an odor... some to the likening it to a dead animal so bad after several weeks that they are going to be tearing this product up.

We are planning to install this product in on basement foyer floor (i.e., a basement walkout to the backyard) in New England during the winter. It does have some heat in it. We also have dogs that sleep in the same area, and are very concerned about possible odor, especially since this foyer area is adjacent to our family room and during the winter won't be able to open the windows.

We have also read a review about some sort of defect in the pattern. Here's a direct quote from another forum: "Much to our horror, when natural light strikes the floor, a very obvious defect pattern is revealed because every plank has an indented area a few inches wide in the middle. When overhead lighting is turned on (which it was during installation) you cannot see the pattern. Took pictures down to Home Depot as well as some left over planks (once you are aware of the situation you can feel the irregularity)."

Has anyone experienced any of the negative issues listed above?


----------



## rusty baker

The ones I have heard of with a "pattern", it was thought it was improperly stored. It was set on something or something was set on it causing the indentations.


----------



## eskiemama

Thanks for the post re: the patterning issue with this product.

Well, the pattern we are considering is Special Order at our local HD. Now my concern is about the odor being emitted from product. Since this would be a specail order and after we get it home and acclaimate it to the room and if it emits an ordor we might be SOL, as it's my understanding that Special Orders are not returnable/refundable.


----------



## Mooby

I just installed mine a month ago, and other than a very slight "new product" smell, there's no unpleasant odor at all.


----------



## eskiemama

Where in your home did you install the product? How much of an area did you have to cover?

Another question for folks... how slippery is this flooring when it gets wet? We might decide to do our laundry room, which I know many folks seem to have done, but I also have several hairy dogs that I bathe at home several times a month and water splashes all over the floor... My concern is that water will be on the floor and I wouldn't want to slip and fall when carrying a dog... also, the thought of water getting under this product could cause mold issues... We don't have ventilation in the laundry room and there is no window.


----------



## Mooby

eskiemama said:


> Where in your home did you install the product? How much of an area did you have to cover?


Basement. 250 sq. ft. room



> Another question for folks...
> how slippery is this flooring when it gets wet? We might decide to do our laundry room, which I know many folks seem to have done, but I also have several hairy dogs that I bathe at home several times a month and water splashes all over the floor... My concern is that water will be on the floor and I wouldn't want to slip and fall when carrying a dog... also, the thought of water getting under this product could cause mold issues... We don't have ventilation in the laundry room and there is no window.


Lino for you.


----------



## jeromeleo

*installed allure flooring this weekend*




zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> I have installed 3/4" plank flooring, laminate, tile, stone etc. on all types of floors. Allure is clearly the easiest floor to install. Simple to lay, easy to cut, and it looks great. I installed about 300 sq feet in about 6 hours total. It took longer to seal the basement floor than to install the Allure.
> 
> I used a tin cutter, and a simple box cutter, a straight edge and a wallpaper roller. That's it. I kept the basement around 75 degrees. It looks great, and I still have the other 1/2 of the basement to do. This is an easy product to use.
> 
> Now, I'll let you know if it stays down over the next few months. It better!!!


----------



## retired guy 60

jeromeleo said:


> It took longer to seal the basement floor than to install the Allure.
> 
> Which product did you use to seal the floor? Would like to hear your opinion on the floor after 6 to 12 months pass. Hope it works out.


----------



## jeromeleo

*drylock latex*



retired guy 60 said:


> jeromeleo said:
> 
> 
> 
> It took longer to seal the basement floor than to install the Allure.
> 
> Which product did you use to seal the floor? Would like to hear your opinion on the floor after 6 to 12 months pass. Hope it works out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used DRYLOCK - a white paint like substance....two coats. I called the main number for the manufacture of Allure, and the rep said any decent water block would be helpful.
> 
> We'll see.... I need to finish second half of room this week. I'm older than 60 and not retired... so I find time...
> 
> sometimes....
Click to expand...


----------



## Raybonj

*seams not staying down*

I put Allure flooring down 3 days ago and some of the seams keep coming up not bad but am worried it will get worse. I have rolled it with a laminate roller and they keeping coming up what am I to do. Call Allure and she said that I should have not put it in a Florida Room. I was doing this then I put it down from day one. How can I fix it?? Help please


----------



## jeromeleo

Raybonj said:


> I put Allure flooring down 3 days ago and some of the seams keep coming up not bad but am worried it will get worse. I have rolled it with a laminate roller and they keeping coming up what am I to do. Call Allure and she said that I should have not put it in a Florida Room. I was doing this then I put it down from day one. How can I fix it?? Help please


Hi,

I have done half the basement floor and it has been down for a week. I left heaters in the room for three full days so it was about 75 degrees down there. Everything seems fine. I have now moved all the furniture, bookcases, etc to the finished side so I guess the added weight will only help.

Tomorrow I will "paint" the second coat of drylock on the unfinished side and, hopefully, begin installing the rest of the floor. Heaters will be working overtime!
We'll see.

By the way while on my knees, I slide across each finished row two or three times with my full weight on my knees so that may have helped the boards stick better. So far so good!!!

Also, it really looks great!


----------



## SileAine

*Glue?*

Thanks all!

I will just have to hope for the best and hope that the seams do not come up and really hope that my dog doesn't pee on the floor once it is down. I will keep on hand sometype of glue.

I was online tonight and I saw the following glues:

Sticky Jack Super Glue
Gorilla Glue 

Or some type of vinyl flooring adhesive. 

I have no choice I have to put down this flooring since its what I purchase and waited for over a year for my brother to put it down. I don't have the money to go back and purchase something new.


----------



## rusty baker

They say to use the super glue.


----------



## dccottagecare

*Allure Hot Topic (basement mold)*

Hello! I have Installed thousands of square feet of this product and beleive it to be one of the best flooring options out there for high moisture/traffic Area's. Perfect for bathrooms, laundry rooms and above grade basements. It is flexible and takes the shape of your floor so no prep is required to make the surface perfectly level. 
I have read alot of these comments and ppl tend to be frightened its not water resistant. It is vinyl and is 100% water resistant. 
In the case of the couple who had a terrible experience in the basement with mold, I have a feeling the whole time your carpet was down your underpad was taking in all the moisture. Since the carpet was breathing, the moisture evaporated, where the vinyl does't breathe it traps the moisture, leading to mold issues... You difinately need to look into Dry Core or a sufficient sub floor. Another thing to keep in mind is You may have had a completely dry basement at the time of the initial carpet install, but alot can happen/change with moisture ratings over that span of time. I have seen brand new consrtuction founndations completely dry with hardly any moisture and 10 years later the floor is constantly wicking moisture, and in need of dehumidifiers running all of the time. I think for any basement a subfloor is the only way to protect your investment. 
Another great new option from Allure is the Locking allure, They have now baught into the UNICLICK patended technology which makes for easier install and allows DIY's more time to work wityh the product without the sticky edge application. If you ever need to try and seperate the old sticky edge style run a hair dryer over the seam to re-activate the glue and you should have no problem seperating them for repair. 
The couple with the basement problem also mentioned their seams were lifting..This is normally due to temperature/climate problems where the house or cottage isn't heated for an extended period of time. In my area in Muskoka Ontario, The Locking system is taking over because of all the seasonal properties, allure won't provide warranty on the flooring, due to the glue losing activation from cold temeratures. This new locking feature makes the floor fail proof for both install and performance. Lifetime warranty on residential applications makes The locking Allure one of the best, and when and if you move you can take your flooring with you, lol.
Hope this info has helped a few ppl with their choice, and for any more info, the Traffic Master reps are great and very knowledgable.


----------



## rusty baker

dccottagecare said:


> Hello! I have Installed thousands of square feet of this product and beleive it to be one of the best flooring options out there for high moisture/traffic Area's. Perfect for bathrooms, laundry rooms and above grade basements. It is flexible and takes the shape of your floor so no prep is required to make the surface perfectly level.
> I have read alot of these comments and ppl tend to be frightened its not water resistant. It is vinyl and is 100% water resistant.
> In the case of the couple who had a terrible experience in the basement with mold, I have a feeling the whole time your carpet was down your underpad was taking in all the moisture. Since the carpet was breathing, the moisture evaporated, where the vinyl does't breathe it traps the moisture, leading to mold issues... You difinately need to look into Dry Core or a sufficient sub floor. Another thing to keep in mind is You may have had a completely dry basement at the time of the initial carpet install, but alot can happen/change with moisture ratings over that span of time. I have seen brand new consrtuction founndations completely dry with hardly any moisture and 10 years later the floor is constantly wicking moisture, and in need of dehumidifiers running all of the time. I think for any basement a subfloor is the only way to protect your investment.
> Another great new option from Allure is the Locking allure, They have now baught into the UNICLICK patended technology which makes for easier install and allows DIY's more time to work wityh the product without the sticky edge application. If you ever need to try and seperate the old sticky edge style run a hair dryer over the seam to re-activate the glue and you should have no problem seperating them for repair.
> The couple with the basement problem also mentioned their seams were lifting..This is normally due to temperature/climate problems where the house or cottage isn't heated for an extended period of time. In my area in Muskoka Ontario, The Locking system is taking over because of all the seasonal properties, allure won't provide warranty on the flooring, due to the glue losing activation from cold temeratures. This new locking feature makes the floor fail proof for both install and performance. Lifetime warranty on residential applications makes The locking Allure one of the best, and when and if you move you can take your flooring with you, lol.
> Hope this info has helped a few ppl with their choice, and for any more info, the Traffic Master reps are great and very knowledgable.


Thank you to the Home Depot rep.:laughing:


----------



## scubadiva

*Traffic master Allure DON'T DO IT!*

It scratches badly and easily! I just put it down and moved a chair that even had plastic protectors and messed up my floor!!! Haven't had it a week! Going to see if the stand behind their product!!!!


----------



## jricharc

Well I got my 25 boxes delivered yesterday and I am going to start putting my allure flooring down this weekend. Do you cut the top of the first row so there is no glue strip touching the floor against the wall or do you just leave it on?


----------



## Mooby

jricharc said:


> Well I got my 25 boxes delivered yesterday and I am going to start putting my allure flooring down this weekend. Do you cut the top of the first row so there is no glue strip touching the floor against the wall or do you just leave it on?


Leave it on. It is on the underside anyways. Instructions are in the boxes.


----------



## JamesM

I will NEVER use the product again, and I'll do anything I can to discourage anyone else from using it. I'm an experience installer with a variety of different products from different manufacturers.

In a nutshell, I installed Traffic Master Allure over a concrete slab in a 1500sq ft event room. The material couldn't handle the moisture wicking up through the concrete, or the temperature swings in this room. The seams began to pop, basically the adhesive was failing, throughout the entire floor. A 1500 sq ft install, down the tubes.

One of the selling points of the product was not needing a moisture barrier. There was NO literature in any one of the boxes explaining any kind of temperature limitations either. 

Long story short, Traffic Master was not going to cover the claim, even though the independent inspector that ALLURE sent out reported back to them that the adhesive failed. In other words PRODUCT FAILURE, not installer error, etc. They flat out denied the claim. It was only because Home Dept insisted that they cover the refund, and talked with them for 45 minutes that they gave in.

The fact that Traffic Master was going to deny the claim, (more than the defective product, and a lost install time and labor) is what really gets me. If you have a failure, if you have a defect, and even if the independent inspector that ALLURE SENDS OUT determined that the product failed, you still might be up a creek. All turned out well for me, I got the refund, and Home Depot covered the materials for a tile install since they sold me the defective product. Home Depot is to be commended here.

Traffic Master proved to be a company with ZERO integrity.

End of the day, I wouldn't do business with this company, and would discourage anyone else from buying their product. There are plenty of options out there, I'd strongly suggest going with something else.
Just my experience.

Cheers
Jim


----------



## jricharc

I put down about 560 sq/ft over the weekend and I have to say I am impressed with the products look and feel. I got a bit of a headache from the smell after installing it over 2 days but I am very pleased with the way it turned out. I will post some photos up after I get my baseboard up.


----------



## bob1

can you put the foam underlay from click flooring under Allure flooring?


----------



## Mooby

It is not recommended by the manufacturer.


----------



## easelpad

Couple of questions: I'm thinking of putting this down in my laundry room in my basement - concrete floor, untreated, relatively clean. Specifically thinking of using the 12x36 vinyl planking. Room size is about 144 sq (12 x 12). House is 40+ years old, concrete well established. New sump crock recently installed - within the past week so there is a small new channel for piping that was poured last week. I'm concerned with the following:

-- since water is present (washer, hot water heater, laundry sink, etc) I want to rim the edges at the wall and basement door with caulk - which is what was recommend I do in the kitchen when I installed harmonics glueless laminate. So, where the tiles meet the walls I want to lay down a bead of caulk to keep any moisture from potentially penetrating - good idea or not?

-- I want to do the same thing where the tile will meet the door threshold.

-- the washer can have a tendency to 'walk' a few inches if off balance (washer to be replaced within the next 6 months). I want to anchor those tiles with a dot or two of adhesive to ensure that the tiles don't move - good idea or not and if OK what the best product to use - liquid nails or something else. 

(note - I understand that this is supposed to be a floating floor, also know the dynamics of the room and believe that this may be the best solution)

Candidly I'm looking for a relatively cheap solution to a ugly basement floor that will provide an 'instant' clean environment for a laundry and general purpose area. I'm looking for something low maintenance, e.g. dealing with popping seams and oder is not what I consider low maintenance. I'm also looking for ease of installation - in other words I have no interest in scrubbing the concrete and treating with TSP and then drylocking. If I wanted to go through that hassle I would just paint with floor paint. So, any helpful suggestions regarding this product would be greatly appreciated. I'm completely skilled with the install so working with the product would not be an issue. Thanks.


----------



## jricharc

I don't see any issues with caulking around the perimeter unless you have a bit of moisture coming from the concrete. If you wanted to glue the thresholds I would use Liquid Nails Heavy Duty adhesive and put a wooden threshold over the edge. The only issue would be if you have a good amount of moisture coming up through the concrete and you seal it off you have a potential mold issue.

I put a 3'x3' piece of like 6mil plastic sealed around all edges with duct tape on my floor for a few weeks to see if any moisture developed and nothing did.


----------



## rusty baker

I would be concerned with the washer. Even if it doesn't "walk", the weight will tie down the floor and could cause it to buckle.


----------



## twharton

JamesM...I can't agree more. Your scenario sounds exactly like ours. We put it down over concrete in the basement, following the limited directions. It began popping up at the seams within a very short period of time. Allure sent out an "independent" inspector.....that was over a month ago. We've yet to hear back from the company. I've called 3 times....placed on hold each time....then disconnected. We are now going back to Home Depot. I'm hoping they will stand behind the product they sell.


----------



## STL B.

I installed this flooring in my moms house and it looked great it wears about as well as any prefinished floor. All was great until one plank started to delam so I emailed their tech support in nov. and have yet to recive a reply as to how to repair the problem..........I think I allready know it's going to involve pry bars and a dumpster


----------



## txczshooter

My wife and I bought our home a little over 5 years ago. The previous owners were the type of DIYers that you wish just wouldn't do it themselves. I'm sure they meant well and thought they were doing great things but they have caused us more work. I difinetly know what to look for if we ever buy another house. Anyway, that said we decided to pull up their poorly laid tile job last March. Yes, my wife has had a concrete kitchen floor for 9 months. We were disheartened yet not surprised to find a nasty thick layer of old vinyl clue underneath the tile. Most likely the reason the tile came up so easy. We toiled every free weekend for months trying to get this old, hard, petrified glue up. Every trick in the book, scrapers, solvents, heat, grinders, sanders, etc. I would say 50-60% of the floor is now clear leaving humps and valleys 1/16" -1/8" in various spots in the kitchen. 

Now, we came across this product at home depot wich would have solved all our issues to begins with. Just pull up the tile and lay this down. But now that we chipped off more than half of this old adhesive and creating a surface that is not uniform all the way across I have no idea how to proceed from here. I'm not mister handyman but I do follow directions and think this has got to be even easier than laying our laminate. My question is how best to do prepare my kitchen concrete in it's current state for the laying of this product?


----------



## raval

*Home Depot Allure Flooring*

I would use extreme caution when selecting this flooring. I have selected it to use as a waterproof floor and the adhesive does not keep the flooring together


----------



## txczshooter

raval said:


> I would use extreme caution when selecting this flooring. I have selected it to use as a waterproof floor and the adhesive does not keep the flooring together


This product was recommended to us by friends who who had not had issues with adhesive. They did mention how very important using the weighted roller on the seams was after insulation as the adhesive relies on pressure for positive bonding.


----------



## rusty baker

If you go back and read some/all of this thread you will find many complaints about the adhesive. The manu even admitted that they put out some product that had bad adhesive.


----------



## RetiredNavy

*Allure over Ceramic tile*

My wife and I put ceramic tile in our basement, and we want to remodel beginning with the Allure flooring. Has anyone laid Allure over any sort of tile? If so did you have any issues with the grout gaps between the tiles? or with the Vinal conforming to the shape or outlines of the individual tiles?

thanks!


----------



## lambster1

*TrafficMaster Allure*

I feel even more confused after reading all these posts!! I was considering Mannington Adura flooring at $3.77 sq ft and came across the trafficMaster Allure at $1.79 sq ft but now don't know if going cheap is the right thing to do????


----------



## Scuba_Dave

Based on the info I have read on this thread I'd say cheap is not the way to go


----------



## Mooby

RetiredNavy said:


> My wife and I put ceramic tile in our basement, and we want to remodel beginning with the Allure flooring. Has anyone laid Allure over any sort of tile? If so did you have any issues with the grout gaps between the tiles? or with the Vinal conforming to the shape or outlines of the individual tiles?


Allure is not designed/intended for use on anything but a flat surface.


----------



## ladyerin

*Seams showing*

I recently had allure put in my basement. The seams are popping up. What can I do? Is it to late to go over it with a roller?


----------



## rusty baker

Superglue.


----------



## ladyerin

Thanks for the info.


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## jricharc

I can't understand why anyone would put the floor down without the use of a roller. It clearly states to use one in the instructions and I think is a critical step in the installation. They can be rented at most large home improvement stores for fairly cheap.


----------



## jricharc

I forgot to post up some photos of my floor after I got it laid down.


----------



## TLB2010

*Allure TrafficMaster Vinyl plank flooring*

22 months ago I laid this flooring in my kitchen. I purchased a premium underlayment product from Lowes because I was laying it on concrete that isn't exactly level throughout the room and I needed the vapor barrier as well as comfort and warmth underneath. The product I used is Precision Components Premium underlayment and it runs about $45 for 100 sq ft. I swear by the combination. I used 3/4 round trim around the edges that I purchased from Home Depot from the laminate flooring section (just take a plank and match the closest, it doesn't have to be exact because the angle of the light in the room is different from the floor laying flat). There are a few *VERY IMPORTANT* things to remember when laying this product, and are worth the extra effort. 

1-You must leave the product in the house for at least 2 days to adjust to the temperature where it will be installed before using it. I open the boxes, but leave the planks in them.
2-You must leave 1/8 to 1/4 inch space between the flooring and the wall to allow for expansion (in the heat) and contraction (in the cold) to prevent buckling or seperation.
3-I didn't leave any adhesive edges around the walls, I trimmed it to the thickness of the plank -didn't want in unlevel under the quarter round.
4- When putting the quarter round down do not put it too tight against the floor (tight against the wall), you must not restrict the floor from being able to expand and contract as it needs to in the summer/winter (as explained in #2).
5- Keep a vaccum handy and keep all grit and dust off the product until you are done. Especially don't let anything (not even your fingers) get on the adhesive too much. I placed the paper inserts that come between the planks over and under the edge of the planks adhesive (as I was going) until I came back to that section of flooring. 
6- Make sure the surface you are laying it on is free of lumps and bumps.

The underlayment has taped edges so it creates a great flat barrier. Like I said I installed this in my kitchen before I left for a job up north for 18 months. I just knew when I returned that I'd have to replace it due to my husband and dog, as the kitchen has the back door to our house and is a major traffic area and we live in sand...so I just knew the grit would rouin the flooring over time. 

Much to my surprise it looks great. I clean it with Allure Single-step Cleaner & Polisher (get the right finish for the flooring you chose - I did the stain finish cherry, so I use soft satin finish cleaner, if you chose the shiny planks use the glossy one). I love it so much I went out yesterday and bought enough underlayment, flooring and quarter round to do my living room and hallway. Next I'll do my dinning room and foyer. 

I will tell you something else I did. as I laid each piece I made sure it was as close as it could get (to prevent any grit from getting between it later) and I rolled it with the cabinet laminate roller as I went. After laying a section I would put on my socks and walk across it and slide along the seams. When I was done I had my husband help (since he is much bigger than me). I have had no seperation or buckling and we are both extremely happy with the product. 

If you get anything sticky on it use an ice cube and rub it and use a rag to rub as you go and it will come right up. I got a little paint on mine, use a wet paper towel as soon as possible will get anything off the floor, but if you miss something that sits on there and dries, just use a box cutter and gently scrape it (with the grain) and it will come off without any damage. I'm telling you, for the money, the easy install, and durability you can not beat this product!!!!


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## CUDA74

*Allure in a vacation home that gets winterized*

Our lake home is at about 10 degrees F right now (inside). We winterize it every winter for 5 months. Anyone had experience with this product being subject to these conditions?


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## stary kozel

To TLB2010 - an excellent, very coherent piece. Also, you obviously really read the booklet. I did kitchen last Sunday with no problems except being sore from getting down of anf off my knees (I am 69 years old). Cutting the material was not a problem. I used utility blade (used only two blades for 240 square feet) and sometimes large shears. 

A comment to person who stated that he /she needed too many blades - do not use the tip of the blade; hold the knife handle a' 30 degrees as related to the surface of the material, do not press too hard and go over the line 2 times, then break the material by partially bending down and going from side-to side of the whole length of the cut. The material is made from two layers that are glued together. When the top layer breaks, bend the piece up to break the bottom one. 

I used pencil to do the lines and did the cutting free hand . I find it easier than following some straight edge which would keep slipping on the material's surface. 

Next will be large 4 season sun room for our French Bulldogs to frolic around.


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## stary kozel

CUDA74 said:


> Our lake home is at about 10 degrees F right now (inside). We winterize it every winter for 5 months. Anyone had experience with this product being subject to these conditions?


I tried couple of cut-off pieces last Sunday - left them outside (a' 28 deg. F) for few hours. The glue became non-tacking and the pieces would not adhere to each other. After heating them some the glue started working again. 

Allure says not to use this material where it gets exposed to extreme temperatures for extended time, be it cold or hot (over 90 deg,. F). Allure should be installed at temp. of 60+ degrees.


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## luvmypets

*reply to question 1.*

*padding will compromise the new flooring - too soft. we also have a concrete floor and will have dricore subfloor installed first, then allure over it.*



ppassat said:


> Well, after many months of researching flooring, I am going to do the hall, living room,dining room and kitchen. It seems that this product is best so far. My questions are:
> 1. My subflloor is concrete and I just feel it needs some padding underneath, like should I or can I keep the carpet padding and install this over it? Home Depot says no. I am on the 3rd floor so moisture is not a problem. But the concrete floor is not perfectly smooth.
> 2. My living room/dining area and kitchen are all open to eachother but I will be going from the concrete flooring to putting this over 40 year old vinyl when I get to the kitchen with a wood 2X4 between the vinyl and concrete. Will this be a problem in heights? I can't remove the vinyl cuz is has asbestos.
> 3. Home Depot gave me a quick class on Pergo installation in terms of how to set up the planks etc. and measure. Would the directions be the same for this stuff?
> 4. Are any of you using the 50lb. weight roller after you are done to seal the seams?
> ok thats it. I am nervous. Is there a site with easy instrucitons?


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## mschluter

*Allure has problems!*

I installed 600sq ft over a healthy clean concrete slab in my "granny unit" which I use as a music practice space. The conditions at that time (Northern CA wine country in October) were temp upper 70s to low 80s, moderate humidity. Left it onsite two weeks prior to actual installation. 

Intall process was very easy; I have done two houses in floating wood laminate (Pergo etc) prior to this and cutting/laying the Allure is a joy. Kept dust at absolute minimum, covered and protected glue edges with the slick paper Allure comes packed in. Got good fit and no gaps at all between planks, walked all over the seams in my socks for basically hours. The glue seemed very tenacious during install; you dont want to make any mistakes with this stuff as taking it back apart would be much more difficult than the directions indicate. I did the project over about 4 days. It looked great, but over several mornings I noticed slight lift of the seams mainly in areas that hadn't had as much foot traffic--the side of the room furthest from the door. 

I then rolled it all with a 90lb roller rented from Home Dept. That helped, briefly.

To my dismay, these same seams are lifting/curling, BADLY by now (three months later and in cooler weather). I have tapped, prodded, pressed on these areas and have to conclude two things:

1. The inner versus outer layers of Allure have two different "coefficients of expansion" or whatever, related not only to temperature but to humidity/moisture (?more in slab versus atmosphere?) as well, and possibly also from release of some fumes from the finish layer which I noticed, but wasn't excessive. For all of these reasons, the end result is that allure planks want to curl and assume a concave shape especially in cooler conditions.

2. The glue remains somewhat soft/viscous, although it is strong, the curling forces (and lower temperature?) WILL win out and result in the glue slowly releasing its grip, that's a fairly easy to understand physical principle.

I have not yet decided to file a warranty claim, mainly because I am not really interested in re-doing this project and I feel the same thing would happen anyway. I am looking for other options. Someone mentioned superglue--this might be a useful idea and I will try some tests on this.

In the meantime I will have to keep vacuuming this very often, I think that getting any dust into these areas will seriously limit any hope of a good repair on this problem. 

My story helps confirm what many others have stated in this thread--curl and edge lift are a very real issue with Allure, unless you put it in a place that is always 80 degrees and give it (paradoxically) a lot of foot traffic all over. 

Think twice about using this stuff! I hope this helps......


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## rusty baker

The techs say to use super glue. It works on repairs, I don't know about gluing a bunch of planks together.


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## stary kozel

mschluter - thanks for coherent description of the problem. I was planning to use the Allure in our sun room and now have second thoughts. Which my wife does not like at all! 

The Allure is made from two pieces of material glued and sandwiched together. The same glue is throughout this sandwich. The question is if there are two types of glue or one, it may be important in case of this delamination. 

You are right (IMHO) with the theory that there is problem with the thermal expansion/contraction coefficient between the two pieces of this sandwich. Is the place this delamination is happening toward the outside wall of the room? 

This concave shape is interesting. It looks like the top layer finish shrank some. Is there window and the floor is exposed to UP sun rays? We have huge panoramatic window, south-oriented in our sun room.

For my own sake - could you tell if the room is heted/airconditioned 24 hours/day? Do you live in a cold or hot climate?

Our sun room is heated and air conditioned that same way as the rest of the house. But it is over crawl space that is not insulated at all. There is some insulation under the sun room, though.

You may made mistake by using roller after few days, only after some delamination already occurred. The manual recommends to use hair drier or something like to heat and therefore re-activate the glue. 

Problem for me anyway, because I do not want to spend my few last years on the Earth fixing some vinyl laminate in this sun room.

We have (and show) dogs that are to be free to frolic (and sometimes piss) in this sun room. Now i will have to put there sheet vinyl and my wife will complain the the color/finish in our kitchen does not match the sun room. And I cannot use there the composition laminate that we have in the rest of the house - dog urine would be killer on this one.

Anyone there knows if there is vinyl sheet with finish to match the Cordoba tile by Allure?


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## stary kozel

I made mistake asking " Do you live in a cold or hot climate?". I should ask how cold it is now over in the N. Cal?


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## annie68164

I've had my Allure floor in my kitchen now for over 2 years and haven't had any trouble at all with the seams coming undone. It's over a plywood subfloor on the main level. From reading posts on this topic seems like most of the people with problems installed their's over concrete. We still love the floor. It does show some scuffs and tiny scratches but is not noticeable at all unless you're really looking or in direct daylight. Overall we're pretty satisfied. I would have went with real wood but our house is old, subfloor not level, I was worried a wood floor wouldn't lay right. Maybe I'm paranoid but I'm happy we went with Allure.


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## Sellwithnic

Spoke to allure today and they do have a product rolling out called allure ultra which is a clic floor... Rep at halstead said this can be used for unheated areas wondering how the vinyl would react to cold (northern Ontario). Not avail yet in Canadian home depot but is online in the states. Anyone used this version yet?


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## mschluter

stary kozel said:


> mschluter - thanks for coherent description of the problem. I was planning to use the Allure in our sun room and now have second thoughts. Which my wife does not like at all!
> 
> The Allure is made from two pieces of material glued and sandwiched together. The same glue is throughout this sandwich. The question is if there are two types of glue or one, it may be important in case of this delamination.
> 
> You are right (IMHO) with the theory that there is problem with the thermal expansion/contraction coefficient between the two pieces of this sandwich. Is the place this delamination is happening toward the outside wall of the room?
> 
> This concave shape is interesting. It looks like the top layer finish shrank some. Is there window and the floor is exposed to UP sun rays? We have huge panoramatic window, south-oriented in our sun room.
> 
> For my own sake - could you tell if the room is heted/airconditioned 24 hours/day? Do you live in a cold or hot climate?
> 
> Our sun room is heated and air conditioned that same way as the rest of the house. But it is over crawl space that is not insulated at all. There is some insulation under the sun room, though.
> 
> You may made mistake by using roller after few days, only after some delamination already occurred. The manual recommends to use hair drier or something like to heat and therefore re-activate the glue.
> 
> Problem for me anyway, because I do not want to spend my few last years on the Earth fixing some vinyl laminate in this sun room.
> 
> We have (and show) dogs that are to be free to frolic (and sometimes piss) in this sun room. Now i will have to put there sheet vinyl and my wife will complain the the color/finish in our kitchen does not match the sun room. And I cannot use there the composition laminate that we have in the rest of the house - dog urine would be killer on this one.
> 
> Anyone there knows if there is vinyl sheet with finish to match the Cordoba tile by Allure?


Just to be clear, the product is not delaminating, the adhesive that joins the seams isn't up to par. I agree this issue seems to happen over concrete in this forum. I certainly used the hair dryer trick, the roller, heavy books on seams for days, kept it VERY dust free, any of these "fixes" the seams for a day or so but they lift again. As mentioned, its much less of issue where the floor gets the heavier foot traffic by the front door (where I also started laying the planks) and worse in the more "distal" part of the job, doesn't seem to favor either the edge or the middle of a run. 

The studio I put it in gets chilly when I'm not using it, at least down to 50. There is no real window or UV issue.

Allure does seem like it would stand up to dog pee very very well, if the seams stuck for you. I have concluded that concrete and cold are its enemy, and it could perform very well in different circumstances than mine.


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## FLdesign

Good advice on repairing seams of Allure Trafficmaster,we are certianly going to try. 

We installed the flooring in a rental unit. It was awesome looking, then about 8 months later, we get a call from the renter that floor was buckling. It progressivley got worse. We called Allure and they arranged an inspection with an inspector, to look at the matter. He ruled that the glue was not working properly. Allure, through Home Depot refunded for the Sq.Ft. of flooring that was coming up at the seams. That was great, but doesn't help with the matter. (I can't afford to replace the flooring.)

They also sent us the "glue" to re-glue the seams. We re-glued the seams, rolled it. So far that did not work. We are going to try pulling off the shoe-moulding and making sure the floor is not touching base board. (yes, we installed it and left some space around peremeter,hence the shoe moulding, but we want to make sure) We will try the rolling pin tricj, instead of the rental roller. Also thinking of buying heavy bags of something to keep on spots for a few weeks. (apartment in unoccupied at moment)

Two things that have come into play that could be influencing the seam problem.

We noticed that the seam issue were in areas where no weight has ever been. Under sofa, under bed, in spare room with no furniture. Dining room, hallways, walk in closet, area around entertainment center, around dresser were all fine. Any thoughts?

I do believe that this floor is SUPER sesitive to temperature. 
We found out after renter moved out, there had been a whole weekend period where she left air off and windows open. We live in Florida, so that means the apartment was exposed to some heat. We noticed some condensation under areas that were coming up. 

It may be best to seal concrete before install. Any opinions on this?

What to do next?


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## Dilemma_man

I too have been wondering about going ahead with a project in my entrance hallway with Allure tile pattern flooring. I had actually planned this last year but fortunately the project got delayed. I say fortunately because I have learned a lot more regarding this product over the past year. Also, I have read this thread from beginning to end, boy what a long thread! And one thing that does become evident is that there is more problems when you put this down over concrete than anywhere else. My front entrance way is an interior concrete slab at grade level. Here is my research, for what it's worth. Hope it helps.

Last year when I talked to HD reps I was told not to put anything under this flooring or it would void the warranty. As I mentioned, I didn't get started on the project last year. Two weeks ago I was in HD picking up some supplies in preparation to do the job now. The sales rep happened to mention that I should put 6 mil polyethylene underneath the Allure since it was going down onto concrete. I was taken by surprise by this and said that I thought nothing was supposed to be put under it and I was told this last year. He told me this was just a recent change in thinking from the company and that they now recommended the polyethylene only over concrete. Being an overly cautious person I called the company in New England and was told that they now recommend the polyethylene. In fact, they said "any underlayment suitable to be placed under wood laminate flooring would be okay and would not void the warranty". 

I still didn't trust this reply so I called back a few days later and talked to another person. I asked the same questions and got the same reply. My thoughts were that I wanted to go with a premium underlay such as Airguard by Roberts. This is the type that is orange poly surface on one side with a clear poly bottom surface and small embedded styrofoam pellets sandwiched between the layers. One reason I wanted this product is that it has a built in mold inhibitor which is a feature I wanted considering some of the posts mentioned mold buildup under the Allure. This underlay is about $50 / 100sq ft so it will had 50 cents a square foot to your flooring costs but I feel it is worth it. I mentioned this product to the customer service adviser at Halstead and they said again, "any underlayment suitable for under wood laminate..." would be fine. 

As far as also putting a sealer on the cement I think this is a good idea but I'm still not sure whether or not to do this. My fear is if somehow you got moisture between the Allure or the underlayment and the concrete now being sealed, there would definitely be nowhere for the moisture to go. At least, I believe, if the concrete is untreated, it will absorb moisture away from the flooring. One of the tests that is suggested to see if the concrete slab is suitable for sealing is to put some water on it and see if it soaks into the concrete. If it does, then supposedly this type of concrete would benefit from a sealer. If water does not soak in, then the concrete is not suitable for a sealer. This comes right from the literature on the sealer container. So my fear is, if you seal the concrete from moisture coming through from the bottom, you have also sealed the concrete from moisture being able to get away. I would like to hear other views on this to finally make up my mind "to seal, or not to seal".

One other thought on the installation where I believe problems could stem from is temperature of the floor. This is critical. Rolling with sufficient weight is also critical and I believe you have to be really careful how tightly you fasten down your trim on top of the Allure. It has to have a bit of space to expand or contract and if it is pinched tightly by mouldings around the perimeter you take this ability away, especially if you have a fairly wide temperature variation at that floor level throughout the various seasons. I couldn`t believe how cool my floor gets near the front door during the winter until I put a thermometer on the floor in that location. 

I will be going ahead with this job in the next couple of weeks. Wish me luck. I will post how I make out.


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## dougpks

You may want to use a space heater during installation in the area where the floor is somewhat cold. Even though the air is somewhat warm, the floor will be colder. I used a safe space heater as a supplement to my forced air furnace directed at the floor area where I installed Allure planks on top of basement concrete floor. You are right, rolling is critical and so is spacing near floor molding to allow expansion, etc. I also believe that acclimation of the product to the area where it is being installed is important. My situation was unique in that I bought the product 6 months before installing it. (I had plenty of other work to do in finishing out basement rec room ... but bought Allure on sale, without much research until later.) 14 months later, absolutely no problems ... about 400 sq. feet worth. Maybe just luck of the draw. For what it is worth.


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## dgeorge

*Allure flooring*

In installed about 300 sq ft of the oak plank Allure flooring today for a friend of the family. I have to say after working with it for about 6 hours or so, I love it! So easy to install and lok awesome. My wife and I have been looking for a flooring option for our kitchen...this might just be it!


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## dougpks

*dgeorge*

dgeorge ... you said "lock". Did you use the glue version or the new interlocking Allure product I have heard about?


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## jricharc

dougpks said:


> dgeorge ... you said "lock". Did you use the glue version or the new interlocking Allure product I have heard about?


I believe he meant "look" awesome.


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## dougpks

_I believe he meant "look" awesome_

ahh ... makes sense. Thanks.:thumbup:


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## dgeorge

I used the resilient planks, not the Allure Ultra. No glue in the system I used. They just stick together. I finished the 350 square foot room today and added a shoe molding along the edges to give it a clean apppearance. I'll try to get some pics once the floor is mopped clean of te dust. Overall, I am highly impressed with this product. Super easy!!!


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## dougpks

I didn't mean to imply that extra glue needed to be applied ... mine was the self-stick strips too, just like yours. Good luck.​


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## FLdesign

Dilemma_man said:


> Being an overly cautious person I called the company in New England and was told that they now recommend the polyethylene. In fact, they said "any underlayment suitable to be placed under wood laminate flooring would be okay and would not void the warranty".
> 
> I will be going ahead with this job in the next couple of weeks. Wish me luck. I will post how I make out.


It is great to know this, thank you. I wonder how difficult it would be to seal the concrete now in problem areas, if we pull back the flooring.


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## Chelle3

*Allure Plank Flooring*

I am a 40 year old woman and I have laid this floor in my bathroom, my Mom's bathroom, my kitchen, and my sisters foyer. I love love love this stuff... and I'm getting ready to help my girlfriend put it down in her kitchen. It's easy to use, and it lasts. I've had no problems at all with this product. You have to make sure once you lay the floor that you seal the edges with caulking. If you do that, then no mold and no lifting. I've had the flooring in my bathroom for 3 years now and no problems. It does get scuff marks from time to time... but I've taken a light sandpaper and rubbed grainlength on the scuff and they disappear! I treat it just like wood flooring, and everyone who sees it swears it can't be vinyl... hope this helps!


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## Dilemma_man

FLdesign said:


> It is great to know this, thank you. I wonder how difficult it would be to seal the concrete now in problem areas, if we pull back the flooring.


Sounds like it might be quite a job to pull the flooring back unless it's just a small area. Actually I have been giving a lot of thought to sealing the cement, here is my ideas after careful consideration:
First of all, if your cement floor already has paint or some other type of finish on it, it is probably already sealed. Technical information from the sealant manufacturer states that a test should be done by placing some droplets of water on the surface of the cement. If this water is absorbed then the cement would be sealable using the sealant. If it just lays on top then no sealant should be used. 
The cement on my floor absorbs the water so it has never been sealed. My fear now is that if I go ahead and seal the cement and then put down the underlay that I mentioned before that if I ever somehow get moisture under the flooring and the underlay (example- condensation, a leak) the moisture would definitely have nowhere to go and I would have the potential for mold. I still believe the underlay is a good idea, in fact, the company now recommends it over cement. The product I plan to use, Airguard premiun underlayment, has a mold and mildew inhibitor built into it that is supposed to last the lifetime of the underlayment. 
If anyone has any further ideas regarding sealing the cement or not sealing I would sure like to hear it.
Good luck with what you decide to do.


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## Rayma

I just installed Allure flooring in my mobile home. The trickiest part was getting the first two rows straight as I had a run of 55 ft from one end to the other. After that it went quickly, as long as we kept a fresh blade. I think one of the most important things is to acclimatize it for 48 hours and make sure the room temperature is 20 degrees Celsius. My dogs seem to be doing great on it and it is quieter than Lino for clicking nails. So far I am very impressed.


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## jopie

*shifting of tiles*

Hi 
I am new here but I was searching for answers about this floor.
Feb 2010 my husband and I installed this floor in our prefab home in Florida.
we took extra care to start with a clean level plywood sub floor.
as instructed we left the floor floating ,in fact we did not have time to install the quarter round 
after the job was done it looked fantastic, could hardly see where the joints were and we were very pleased.
returning to the north in April we left the air conditioner set at 85 degrees. what a dissapointment when we returned here in November to see the tiles had shifted and some joints are now one sixteenth of an inch apart, enough to catch dirt and are very visible.

does anyone have advise for me here?

thanks , Joanne


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## rusty baker

Was the floor moisture tested? Is it wood or concrete?


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## jopie

it was perfectly dry ply wood which had been covered with carpet for the last 5 years, but no, we did not test it, that was not in the instructions either .
it bragged about how you did not even have to prepare the sub floor , it would go over any thing but we did take care to have it perfectly level and dust free and clean....
and not all seams opened ,,,,, but the ones that did are an eye sore....


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## jricharc

I have noticed one small area about 3'X3' that my seams are lifting a bit. Should I just put some super glue on the seams and lay something heavy down?


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## hawknator

*Flooring*

Me and my wife just purchased the 1sqft tiles of TrafficMaster Vinyl and are going to try the install ourselves. We plan on laying it down over the subflooring tiles that run in are kitchen and hallway. Im in the construction business but Ive never done flooring before. Im a little weary about it, with all the cuts around the cabinets, stairs, and door frame. Is there any helpful info that I could use?
Thanx.:jester:


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## Rayma

One thing I found very helpful re: cutting around doors, etc., was to use an undercut saw and as much as possible, run the flooring under the jamb. This eliminates the need to cut as carefully and gives a much nicer finished appearance. If you do need to cut around something, either take careful measurements or make a paper pattern first. A really sharp blade is also helpful. Change it or snap it off frequently.


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## hawknator

*flooring*

thanx Rayma. Well I think I am going to take up the old vinyl flooring, that way I will be able to slide the tiles under the jams instead of trying to make fine cuts. :thumbsup:


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## chucktoolguy

*Allure good and bad*

Good: 

Easy to lay and piece together (lay at 45deg. to edge)
large number of colors (At Home Depot)
Almost completely waterproof
More durable than standard linoleum
Cons:

VERY sensitive to cold (Why?- only linoleum truly free floating- free to move, so free to flex when room is REALLY Cold- below 40Deg F. Why should this matter- also becomes brittle in cold temps.)
ONLY Soft floor that is sensitive to scratching from furniture and LARGE pets' nails. (use felt pads for furn. and blunt pets' nails)
Glue on edge is VERY strong- less than 30 seconds to rearrange before permanent.
These are the only problems I have noticed with this product. You can try a flexible adhesive like Loctite's flexible adhesive to reattach strips. Ordinary glue is unsuitable because the material moves with themperatures and flexes when walked on. Unlike laminates, you can't break up this material and re-lay it in another room. Other than that, the cost is one of the lowest, and there is little or no prep-work.

I should know- I work at Home Depot, and I would not sell a product I didn't like, such as Durock Cement Board.


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## fjbwhite

I laid down Allure from TafficMaster in our laundry room after a pipe burst and ruined the floor. I like it because it's water resistant. Then we had another leak so I pulled up the Allure which was stuck to the luan. I (with difficulty) removed the waterlogged luan and re-laid down the Allure being careful to make the surface more flat. The only problem has been that a few corners need to be glued down a little better.

While my laundry is small, I plan to install much more Allure in our finished basement later this year. We've had in the far past some water leakage on the basement floor because of a high water table but now that we have two sump pumps and french drains, I have more peace of mind and I can't wait to pull out the carpet we put in the basement since the stains either won't come out or are extraordinarily difficult to remove.


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## fjbwhite

*need infor*

Has anyone found Allure bullnose for going around the edges of steps? I want to put Allure on steps but would like to have it wrap around at the step's edge.


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## trow

I am looking at installing new flooring into my motorhome. The Allure flooring looks and sounds good, is this product good for this application? I have looked at Pergo flooring also. Any other suggestions I can look at? Not into trying to put a sheet of linoleum in.


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## ldycat11

*Allure flooring for RV*

I wish to remove the carpeting in my motorhome and replace with a vinyl flooring. So far Allure looks like it would work. Has anyone use Allure for this type of project?


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## rusty baker

I don't think I would use Allure in a place with such temperature changes.


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## IceT

wow .. what a posting.. lets talk about a floor that is BASIC.. Allure is it.. yet we have 500,000 viewers..wow.
That product is a floor that doesn't match the floors from a Real Flooring retailer..


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## Edelmare

I just got done laying down Allure flooring Corfu style in a kitchen - so no temperature extremes or damp concrete - simple, on a newly installed underlayment and very level. Cut to the chase I would never install The Traffic Master Allure again.

Pros: Yes it is easy to take from the box, I liked the fact it does NOT adhere to the subfloor simply to itself. That meant I could finish the rest of the kitchen and insatll the cabinets and not have to worry about keeping the subfloor clean enough to install. I did in fact find the flooring fairly beefy and thick with a bit of resilient bounce to it. It is comfortable to walk and stand on.

Cons: (1) The adhesive edges are not covered by anything (no peel-n-stick) so fitting to trim is very problematic as it sticks to itself nearly instantly with out any pressure. This can be over come by using the waxy separator sheets that come as packaging. but you have to be careful with it. (2) Instructions claim 10-15 working time once tiles are "stuck" together. No instant stick if any pressure is applied. And then peeling apart often tears up the adhesive layers even with only 10-30 seconds. I had to completely replace several pieces becasue I had troble getting them to align (See #4) (3) it is very difficult to cut. It takes several forceful passes with a sharp razor, then you snap the tile and then you back trim. Trimming to fit around curves and anything beyond a simple straight edge it trying. (4) VERY poor quality control in the manufacture of the sheets. Sheets are sized to be 1-foot x 3-feet. I had variations of up to 3/16-inch in length, and up to 1/8-inch out of straight on the long sides. and 3/16 mis-match in the "grout" lines. (There are no direction indicators since the two sticky sides require only one direction of installation) And Initially I thought it was simply me being in experienced with the Allure tiles. Unfortunately by the time I had discovered it was not me but in fact the tiles I was over 50% done and had invested over 1.5 days (It should NOT have taken this long). So now I have irregular gaps between the tiles and I have to go back and try to find a matching caulk to fix the problems . . .


I have done four vinyl self-adhesive floors from four different manufactures and ONLY Armstrong tiles (actually my first floor) work exactly as expected. You would think I would have learned by now.


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## hackwriter

Armstrong makes a wood plank floor too, with similar installation. Would that be a better bet? I'm looking to do my kitchen floor in a cost-effective way. My husband is too messy for wood, laminate is clacky and requires a saw (and may be an issue when ice cubes drop and aren't found until they become water), and sheet vinyl isn't really DIY. So the planks are the way I'd like to go, but I'm concerned about both quality and off-gassing.


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## Edelmare

Hackwriter:

Unfortunately I have not worked with the Armstrong wood planks, perhaps someone else can specifically reply. But as a leading manufacturer of flooring products for 150 years I would strongly lean towards them based on the quality of their self-adhesive tiles. (FYI: I have no financial ties, stocks, or relatives with Armstrong).

AND as to off-gassing, the sun came out today and has warmed my new Allure flooring - my Kitchen smells like a petrochemical refinery (Con Number 5).

I have also installed a Harris Tarkett tap-tight wood plank floor, the quality has been great but it does require cutting and the "tap-tight" was a bit of a pain in the neck. The product was as advertised and looks great after 8 winter snows,sand and salt (front entryway).


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## hackwriter

I'm sorry...I meant vinyl planks from Armstrong. Here's the thing: I have a fear of electric saws, which really puts limits on my "Gee, I could do that" DIY zeal. That's another reason why the idea of DIY laminate is kind of scary.

We put industrial carpet in our basement (which has only had water twice, and not at all since we put in a sump pump) and the off-gassing had us feeling sick in the house for six months, no matter that we kept the windows down there open and a fan blowing out 24 x 7. I'd like to avoid that in the kitchen. The kitchen is WAY above grade, so some of the moisture and cold problems are not an issue, though the room can get hot in summer.


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## Julie Lagourney

*Flooring*

I had this floor put down about 2 years ago.. and loved it .... till lately. It started first to pull apart next to my dishwasher and was told it was from the steam or heat that I had NO leaks. Then today I fould 2 cracks in the middle long way on a couple of planks or tiles ... I AM SO MAD. I was fixing to put down on my cement den floor but I am not now.. 

I do not know what to do.. the flooring was put under my new cabnets so it would be a giant mess to replace. I am 64 and was planning on selling this house in 2 years and now WHAT! 

NO, I would not use this ever again. 
:furious:


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## rusty baker

It isn't supposed to be installed under cabinets, either. So there may be problems from that at some point.


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## Julie Lagourney

*Floor covering.*

My insurance adjuster and installer are the ones that said while my cabnets were out.. go ahead and put all over the floor... But that is not were it is cracking! I do not know who to go after to fix this.. my adjuster, installer or the flooring maker.. And if they would replace it, I am not sure I ever want to go through a kitchen remodel ever in my life again! They had to take out my cabnets and put in storage.. Had to cut my counter top in half to get out the door.. so I got a new top. I was without a kitchen for MONTHS... I am so upset today about all of this.


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## Julie Lagourney

Julie Lagourney said:


> My insurance adjuster and installer are the ones that said while my cabnets were out.. go ahead and put all over the floor... But that is not were it is cracking! I do not know who to go after to fix this.. my adjuster, installer or the flooring maker.. And if they would replace it, I am not sure I ever want to go through a kitchen remodel ever in my life again! They had to take out my cabnets and put in storage.. Had to cut my counter top in half to get out the door.. so I got a new top. I was without a kitchen for MONTHS... I am so upset today about all of this.


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## rusty baker

I would call the store, the installer and the adjuster. There was a problem on some of the adhesive strips a couple of years ago. The mill admitted that. Cracking definitely sounds likes a defect.


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## Julie Lagourney

*Floor covering.*

Thank you... I called Home Depot where I bought it but they have not called back yet. I also called my insurance company... they would not let us replace the 2 X 6 beams under my kitchen floor even though I argued that I thought they should. What kind of floor would you suggest on my den floor that is cement and not very smooth when I took the old tile off. I do not want carpet.. I have a dog! What a mess.. I never wanted to go thru this again in my life.. I would almost move first! They should have rented us a place ... just for the mold if nothing else.


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## rehabob

*Just my opinion ---*

I've used this product for the last three years. I was skeptical at first and followed the instructions to the letter to make sure it performed as advertised. Since then, it has worked out well for me in rental and rehab situations. Take a look at my blog (click here) for pros/cons and what I've learned after a dozen installations.


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## ssdc60

*Allure flooring*

Live outside of Orlando Florida.

Used in manufactured home 3 years ago. Love it. House is now a rental - tenant loves it. Went down easily in kitchen, diningroom, hall and bathroom. Had no problems at all. Actually used a scissors to make necessary cuts. We had 2 cats and an old dog. Easy to wipe up "accidents". Cats nails did not bother floor. Very easy to keep clean.

Have new older house with concrete floors with yucky rugs. Ordered Ceramique Dawn for one bathroom and African Wood Dark for master bedroom. Special order will be in in about one week. Will pull up rugs this week and then seal the concrete. Friends have similar house and have these Allure floors throughout. Have not had any problems. Their floors have been down at least three years.


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## WoodFlooristcom

*I usually do real wood flooring but with this economy I am currently taking anything I can get to keep the rent paid. A person called me to install Allure and although I had never installed it I found it very easy to use. *



The customer is so happy they now are going to have me do the kitchen floor. Home Depot told them that they don't have the "hidden transition strips". Is there a place where I can order them as I have about 20 feet where I need to reverse direction.. I assume these are like double wide Gripstrips so two "female" edges can be fastened together in much the same way as I use splines for installing wood floors.


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## susanp

I felt compelled to write a review on Allure Trafficmaster Vinyl Flooring for the following reasons:
Although the look is great and it is very easy to install the maintenance it requires is not worth it. If you have a dog or young child do not purchase this floor. I have read reviews stating dogs nails will not scratch the floor...that is a false statement. The very day after I installed mine...our dog ran through the room and I noticed multiple scratches. In addition to that...every spill on this floor is noticable. I used the recommended product Allure Cleaner/Polisher...and it will not remove marks or scratches. I have done everything I know to get this floor to look like the day I installed it...and have failed. I regretted my decision to purchase this floor within a month after I installed. I did not experience corners coming up or seams lifting. My complaint is strictly scratches...and marks that cannot be removed. Would not recommend this product unless you are installing in in a room that receives very little traffic.


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## etrujtir1

I have installed a little hallway with lots of cuts, a master bedroom, and a masterbath. even did the bath on the diagonal using one of the square tile looks. i never installed a floor of any sort before. and was 7 mo pregnant with twins while doing the bedroom. (talk about nesting urges!) i love them all and will be doing my basement sometime soon to replace carpeting. the wood look planks are easier to manipulate than the tile-look because they are narrower and more flexible. absolutely no leakage, no movement, no separation. i highly recommend this product. sorry no caps...i"m typing onehanded with one of the twins in arms!


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## Bud Cline

no leakage???


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## dalaniz999

*Agree*



madeyoulook said:


> To start off I work in the flooring department at Home Depot. As I read through all the comments posted I have to put in my two cents. Overall this is a great product. I sell this to a customer almost everyday I work. I have worked there for 1 year. And out of that year I have had 3 complaints. All 3 times it was the edges coming up. So you do the math. Any flooring or product, at that, will have somebody that is dissatisfied. In all actuallity the customer that said they installed it in a dry basement and they had a mold problem because the floor wouldn't breath, the basement obviously wasnt a dry basement to start with. I am not trying to bash on that person but they could have install a pergo that you put a plastic vapor barrier and had the same mold problem. All I am trying to say is that there is a risk with and product you buy but I have had more satisfied customers than dissatisfied ones.
> 
> PS. this is not a sales pitch, i hate my job. This is a opinion from a person that has it in there house and has seen this product bring satisfaction to many many people.


 
I agree - Mold does not grow with out moisture..


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## Gypsycaverns

I had this product installed in my private personal training gym. Looks great and held up well until there was some water from the bathroom. Most of the floor buckled and/or bubbled throught-out the entire 700sq ft. I was told it was because of the weight of the equipement on it (allure). Ended up the manufacture would do nothing about it because it was used in a commercial setting. Settled with home depot for about 60% and avoided the lawyer. On the other hand I will be putting it in a condo i have. It is cheap, easy instal, and i think without the weight it should be ok. I have to tell you the look of it is really good.


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## scjwade

*Going with the Novalis instead of Allure*

My hubby and I put down the Novalis (Lowes) vinyl wood plank flooring in our basement about 3 years ago. Our house was about 3 years old at the time and we have had no moisture issues. It did take quite some time but we have NOT had any issues. It has not come up, it has gotten wet from me washing clothes and the children have jumped and played on it. I love it!

I was considering the Allure for the living room because they had more of a variety in colors. After reading many reviews, I am not so sure now. I think I will stick with what I know and just get the Novalis again. Thanks to everyone who posted!

p.s. I also thought about mixing both brands for a more random look, but I wasn't sure how much thicker the Allure was over the Novalis.


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## lthomas

I just installed this and when I used a very small shop vac to vacuum up debris the wheels made lots of scuff marks all across a number of the pieces. I talked to the company and they said..Yep, it scuffs, even from shoes. You have to scrub out the scuffs and apply one of their products to try and eliminate it. It didn't work. Seems like a confounding flaw in something that should be durable...like a floor. Won't use this product again.


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## annie68164

I have had the Allure for almost 3 years now and it's held up OK. No issues with it coming up however it does have a ton of scuffs, scratches and even some tiny spots where the finish came off (from something sharp hitting it?? We have 2 boys so who knows) leaving white behind. It still looks fabulous and anyone that comes over compliments it every time so the scuffs etc. are not that noticeable but at the same time I don't see this holding up for many more years. Am considering a product called SpreadStone for re-doing my old kitchen counters (stone/resin skim coat) this is also designed for patios, floors etc. so if it works out good for my counters may be using this next on my kitchen floor some day when Allure finally bites the dust. I'll post if I do any of this.


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## annie68164

*to WoodFloorist*

For transition strips I used some metal ones from Home Depot with the fake wood finish and though they don't match the floor exactly in my opinion they look fine. They had several wides and sizes so you could buy one and just take it over there and see how it may look???? I too could not find transition strips for my Allure floor. Also, where floor meets carpet I didn't put anything down, looks great and no problems with it in 3 years.


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## annie68164

WoodFloorist said:


> I usually do real wood flooring but with this economy I am currently taking anything I can get to keep the rent paid. A person called me to install Allure and although I had never installed it I found it very easy to use.
> 
> The customer is so happy they now are going to have me do the kitchen floor. Home Depot told them that they don't have the "hidden transition strips". Is there a place where I can order them as I have about 20 feet where I need to reverse direction.. I assume these are like double wide Gripstrips so two "female" edges can be fastened together in much the same way as I use splines for installing wood floors


Dont know if this will help-for transition strips I used some metal ones from Home Depot with the fake wood finish and though they don't match the floor exactly in my opinion they look fine. They had several wides and sizes so you could buy one and just take it over there and see how it may look? I too could not find transition strips for my Allure floor. Also, where floor meets carpet I didn't put anything down, looks great and no problems with it in 3 years.


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## mschluter

*followup on edges lifting/glue failure*

This is a followup from my post in Jan of this year which described widespread and progressive lifting/curling of seams over a concrete slab--similar problems are described by others on this site.
I called the company, emailed photos, talked to several people there. They were friendly and helpful. They arranged for a refund of purchase price from HD. They did not tell me how common this was, or why, but they did not seem surprised. Its very unfortunate the product failed for me, but their prompt and pleasant service helped soften the blow a little. Now I gotta find something that looks as good, is easy to install, but won't fail like this, and do it all over again!


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## rusty baker

The majority of failures seem to be on concrete, whether DIY or Pro installed. Not sure why. Could be that concrete is usually colder or that most concrete sweats, so it could be moisture or a combination of the two.


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## anemoi

*RE: You need a litter box solution . . .*



jkmcr said:


> I have *two cats* and am considering using Allure (the tile-look) in the room where the litter boxes are kept. Occasionally my senior kitty misses the box and wets the floor. Does anyone have any experience with this? *Would it damage the appearance of the flooring or seep through the seams? *
> 
> Secondly, I have my *desk and rolling chair* in this room. The desk, which contains my computer and a printer, is rather heavy. *How would the Allure stand up to this weight? *And what kind of protection for the rolling wheels would work???
> 
> Thanks for any advice you can give me. JKM


:thumbsup: For anyone with cats who miss the litter box, my vet gave me a fantastic idea for a solution. She said the best litter box wasn't even a litter box. She said to get a plastic storage box or tub from a discount store. You know, the kind that comes with a lid (which you can keep on or off). Then, carefully cut an entryway into the side of the tub. (High enough above the litter and possible "miss" by the cat, but low enough that the cat can enter.) The difficulty is in cutting through the plastic to avoiding cracking. If you drill staggered holes, you can then use a saw--I used a hacksaw--to cut between the holes. I lined the edges of the entrance with blue painters tape so that there were no sharp edges that might hurt kitty. Though the process is fairly difficult, I can't tell you what a wonderful solution this is for the pet owner.

As far as the flooring--my nephew installed some and I'd been looking for a solution for my kitchen floor. Have purchased the product and am awaiting the shipment. With the litter box solved (above), I'd rest assured you won't have a problem!


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## mjdavis

*Mold?*

I wonder if those people having mold issues on concrete floor applications using Allure had a stand-alone DEHUMIDIFIER running in the space?


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## ealex

*Allure flooring*

I recently purchased and installed the Allure Hickory flooring in my kitchen. One plank in the corner peeled leaving a white grain spot about an inch in diameter. I need a remedy to this problem, other than taking the whole floor up. The plank is in the center of my kitchen. Any thoughts are cures for this?
Home Depot associate took my Name and number two weeks ago. As of this time,I havent heard a thing. I cannot easily take the plank up beacause of the way it adheres to the other planks.


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## Drew1982

ealex said:


> I recently purchased and installed the Allure Hickory flooring in my kitchen. One plank in the corner peeled leaving a white grain spot about an inch in diameter. I need a remedy to this problem, other than taking the whole floor up. The plank is in the center of my kitchen. Any thoughts are cures for this?
> Home Depot associate took my Name and number two weeks ago. As of this time,I havent heard a thing. I cannot easily take the plank up beacause of the way it adheres to the other planks.


You could do a plank replacement (actually cut and remove the damaged board) the most simple solution would be a minwax wood putty


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## violavicki

*urethane finish post install?*



26yrsinflooring said:


> Traffic master has a *4 mil wearlayer* it is a Konecto product but it is so cheap they only sell it to Home Depot.
> 
> On a scale of 1-10 it gets a 3 for quality, wearability.
> 
> *You will never see these at Home Depot:*
> 
> The next line that is availabe is the: *Country Collection from Konecto.*
> It has *6 mil wearlayer* and a urethane finish.
> I rate this a: *5*
> 
> The second line availble: *Sierra Plank from* *Konecto.*
> It has a *12 mil wearlayer* and urethane finish.
> I give this a:*7*
> 
> The best line that is available is: *Prestige Plank from Konecto.*
> This has *12 mil wearlayer* and a *Aluminum Oxide finish.*
> This gets a Perfect:* 10*
> 
> In reply:
> 1. If your walls are not straight and you start at the wall how do you insure it does not go off kilter when you get to the end piece, on the other side, the last thing I want is a floor that does not look straight, or an itty bitty edge for the last piece.
> *Measure the room and find the straightest most visible wall; start here.*
> *The floor will square of itself only, just like laminate after you get the first two rows down remeasure to confirm you* *are straight as you can be.You can adjust at this point if required.*
> 
> 2. What type of knife would you use for the best in cutting edge?
> *A simple utility knife, you can score it and break it.( If it is allure you can breathe on it and it will fall apart)*
> 
> 3. Since it will get glue on the knife what would you suggest to eliminate the glue factor when cutting, one person mentioned room temperature? Has anyone else had a good experience with room temps, I am in Canada where we can get 90 degrees, or should I turn the a/c on to 70 degrees or so for easier cutting.
> *You will not get much glue on the knife it you do some simple mineral spirits will work. These floor must acclimated on the room they will be laid in at 65-85 degrees for 48hours before installation and 48hours post install do not deviate or it could lead to floor failure!*
> 
> 4. I plan on using a straight edge to cut it. Are there any other tools you think I might require?
> *A speed square, very handy!*
> 
> 5. It is an open concept flooring design and the staircase swirls around the area we want to do, how do I hide any imperfections. For the walls we will be pulling the quarter round off and re-installing new ones so that will eliminate any unsightly imperfections. But how would you suggest the staircase area?
> *Make a cardboard template for each stair it will be worth the trouble.*
> 
> 6. I have laid many floors in laminate and it worked so well just click and go, for a better seam would you suggest butting it up on an angle and then drawing it down to the glue I really don't want to see a seam.
> *Work your corner and long side first sometimes the planks ends will be slight uneven but that is very normal and within tolerances.*
> 
> 7. Lastly, whew (Thank you for reading all these question) If you suggest I start off at the wall do I start with the glue side next to the wall, or cut it off.
> I feel like a fool asking so many question since I have done electrical, put my own eaves troughs up, fencing, and other household DIY stuff, but this product is new to me and I feel a little uncertain about it, but I prefer to do it right,
> Kudos to the 82 year old woman who did it by herself, I admire her spunk.
> *Always start with the glue side out or you will have issues.you want to lay the plank into the gluestrip.If you try to come from under it will drive you nuts!*
> *Do not feel like fool these are all good questions.*
> 
> *I second the Kudos to her!*


Can you add a urethane product after installation to make the product more durable? More waterproof, and seal the seams and edges so they don't come up? This would seem to make sense, but don't know if it would damage the product, or stretch and crack with heat/cold.


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## rusty baker

It should be noted, for what it's worth, "26yearsinflooring" is a retailer/wholesaler of vinyl planks.


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## JohnMan

*John M*

I am going to install my 3rd floor using the allure planking. This time I'm going to install it in a living area on a concrete slab. I was thinking about trying to put a felt paper (light tar paper) down on the slab before installing the floor. Does anyone have any ideas about this, good or bad? Thanks.


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## leiut56

*allure floor*

i have put the floor down in my dinning room and it is great so far no problems got it from home depot in pittsburgh pa great sofar would use it again goes down easy stay down :thumbup:


Ash74 said:


> Here's the deal....
> 
> I work at a Home Depot in Columbus Ohio. I've been in flooring for a number of years and I know my stuff but Im always looking for ways to better educate my associates and my customers.
> 
> Recently I've been looking into the Allure vinyl flooring. We had a customer that bought around 50 boxes to do their whole first floor then got cold feet when it came time to install. Because this is considered a DIY product, our installers in this market will not install Allure Flooring.
> 
> Everything Ive seen on this product looks like it would be simple to install but the cust returned the floor and went with something else. Install aside, Im leery of the claim that the product is truly "water resistant".
> 
> What I would like to know is what everyone else thinks about Allure, good and bad. I've read a couple messages on the boards here so far so I know we already have a mixed bag.
> 
> Thanks for your time and your thoughts.


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## singforsupper

I really like Allure flooring. I have done two rooms with it and will do a third soon. I find the rigid underlayment and the glue locking system and the ease in cutting it as keys to it's success. Compared to vinyl sheet flooring it is much more substantial and durable.


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## IRuehl

I love it. Haven't had any issues with it. Smells a bit, but stop stinks soon enough. I am wanting to see if anyone has images of the transition strips? Or should I buy wood ones and glue the down?

Any how here are a few photos of my new floors. They are in cherry


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## ttr13r

Reading feedback on the Allure product was interesting. I have experience with this product and know plenty about it. As for the "heelys" someone mentioned, yep, that is a no-no on Allure. I have even warned people specifically about this too. But as for comments about mold... this is the first complaint I have heard about in several years. There is an "anti-Allure" website though, but then there will always be "nay-sayers" on just about anything. Most people love this flooring, it looks absolutely beautiful and yes, it's waterproof. Best of all, it's easy to maintain. If you call Halstead customer service, maybe they can answer questions or concerns for you? Bottom line, it is pretty, and has a 25 year residential warranty. I'm happy with it and would use it again.


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## rusty baker

ttr13r said:


> Reading feedback on the Allure product was interesting. I have experience with this product and know plenty about it. As for the "heelys" someone mentioned, yep, that is a no-no on Allure. I have even warned people specifically about this too. But as for comments about mold... this is the first complaint I have heard about in several years. There is an "anti-Allure" website though, but then there will always be "nay-sayers" on just about anything. Most people love this flooring, it looks absolutely beautiful and yes, it's waterproof. Best of all, it's easy to maintain. If you call Halstead customer service, maybe they can answer questions or concerns for you? Bottom line, it is pretty, and has a 25 year residential warranty. I'm happy with it and would use it again.


 Another endorsement by an HD employee who sells this product.:laughing:


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## ttr13r

rusty baker said:


> Another endorsement by an HD employee who sells this product.:laughing:


Rustybaker...I get what you're saying, but, since I am a Home Depot employee, I'm not trying to promote the store, won't mention it again either. Like I said, there will be nay-sayers, everyone has their opinion and experiences. But, I respect that.


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## ttr13r

anemoi said:


> :thumbsup: For anyone with cats who miss the litter box, my vet gave me a fantastic idea for a solution. She said the best litter box wasn't even a litter box. She said to get a plastic storage box or tub from a discount store. You know, the kind that comes with a lid (which you can keep on or off). Then, carefully cut an entryway into the side of the tub. (High enough above the litter and possible "miss" by the cat, but low enough that the cat can enter.) The difficulty is in cutting through the plastic to avoiding cracking. If you drill staggered holes, you can then use a saw--I used a hacksaw--to cut between the holes. I lined the edges of the entrance with blue painters tape so that there were no sharp edges that might hurt kitty. Though the process is fairly difficult, I can't tell you what a wonderful solution this is for the pet owner.
> 
> As far as the flooring--my nephew installed some and I'd been looking for a solution for my kitchen floor. Have purchased the product and am awaiting the shipment. With the litter box solved (above), I'd rest assured you won't have a problem!


Great idea, the kitty litter box. If I can add something about the Allure product....do not use a rolling chair on it, it will make marks that can not be repaired, if you do decide to use the product, get one of those clear plastic things for under the chair (office supply store?) to protect the flooring.


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## ttr13r

HomeDepot23 said:


> That is some unbelievable B.S. there 26. Firstly Bruce does not and never has sold Home Depot stores seconds. To make that many seconds would have put them out of business :laughing:
> 
> Home Depot mostly special orders their hardwoods and NEVER sell cabin grades or lower grades, even when builders and contractors ask us to.
> 
> In stock Bruce was never seconds either. They did once try a peel and stick plank, which must have failed, although the complaints we got were that we had stopped selling it.
> 
> Again for tile, Home Depot deals with Dal-Tile and it does not buy anything different from any other retailer. we send customers to Dal, to look at product in their showroom. Sometimes they find a way of buying it direct or through another retailer. It is the same.
> 
> The boxes of tile are marked. They have a number on them. Grade 1. Less than honest dealers try to tell their clients that HD's grade 1 means they are crap, that they should be looking at grade 4 or 5. There is no grade 4 or 5 tiles. There is PEI 4 or 5.
> 
> Again, Home Depot were accused by contractors of selling seconds. They asked their vendors to mark their boxes grade 1 to prove they were not selling seconds.
> 
> Home Depot has special buy tiles. Yes, I am sure these are thinned out and made cheap. But hell, they charge anywhere from .79 cents to $1.10 per sq ft. How good are they going to be? Now, even Home Depot cannot compete with the retail stores who are charging .58 cents to .79 cents. How good are those going to be?
> 
> Home Depot, didn't put anybody out of business that didn't deserve it. My store included. Are they perfect? No. I will say if I think something is wrong. I don't like the way they have promoted polyester carpets so much, for example.
> 
> As far as the Allure. 26 is right. It is new. I have been in my new position just over a year, and Allure came out in my store less than 6 months before that, so I am sure I will get complaints. (That is my job)  I have had 1 complaint on Allure. It had markings on it, that the customer didn't see before installing, but were on all of the pieces. Halstead replaced the floor with no problem.
> 
> My father put in Allure about a year ago. It looks great. My father in laws, so far so good.


Hey Homedepot23: I too work there, in 23/59. I concur with everything you say, the good and the bad about our store. Great stuff, have commented the same myself. Halstead, I have mentioned in comments here a few times, has a good customer service line, helpful if you use it. I had a customer install all rooms in his home with that product. The bamboo, he installed, in one room, completely wrong, voiding the warranty, yet, I gave him the phone number (for Halstead) and they reimbursed him 100% of his money on that project. Are there many other vendors that would do this?


----------



## nailsa

I have just purchased the Allure flooring system to be installed in our basement tomorrow. While talking to the sales person at HD, I asked if there was any prep or barriers necessary; moisture barrier, etc. I was told no, no underlayment was required. Just install directly aiop of the exisitng clean flooring. Based on what I have just read, I am wondering if infact something should be applied to the floor prior to the instal. He mentioned that this is considered a floating floor, so talking to others in other stores, some say yes floating floors should have an underlay while others say no. Can someone help me out as the install is scheduled for tomorrow? My floor is tiled over the concrete floor. Did I mention, this will be my first attempt at floor installation? Thanks in advance.


----------



## dylanedward

*allure flooring*

do not install this in the basement. allure is having problems with basement installations. the seams keep popping. a inspector was sent out to house and said everything was done correctly. allure refunded the price the of the flooring,but lots of other cost are involved that i don't think they are going to help with. also after reading other blogs on the internet looks like many people are having a mold problem. we have tried everything to keep it from popping,rolling, glueing,ironing, nothing seems to help. our basement is a walkout with 7 large windows and a patio door. water is not a issue.


----------



## ttr13r

Allure has not been successful in basement installs...something about the concrete, but you mentioned there are tiles? are they vinyl or ceramic? Although the directions say Allure can be installed over ceramic I wouldn't recommend this. Over vinyl tiles? as long as those tiles are securely adhered to the floor, corners not lifting, level-ish, etc. But even with that said, I am reticent to tell people to install anything over peel and stick tiles. Laminate needs an underlayment. Allure does not. You can get thorough instructions to install Allure from Halstead. Try googling the name Halstead. Someone, somewhere on this thread, posted those instructions, where, I haven't a clue. So unfortunately if you don't find it on Halstead website, there are 45 pages of info here. Very time consuming. I will also say, it's unbelievable reading all these comments, how very few of them actually come up with real solutions. It seems like pro-Allure vs anti-Allure. Sad. I really feel for those people looking for honest knowledgable information on this product. With that being said. You must be aware Allure is a relatively new-ish product. Personally I like it, have had good results from it. But the most important thing is, knowledge is power. READ ALL the installation directions from the manufacturer. Don't do something to short-cut. I also will say, a HD employee suggested here to use "Once and Done" to maintain this floor. NEVER use that! I am an employee at HD, and am appalled at what some of these people say. Most don't have a clue of what they are talking about, some just rant on about how great HD is. Every retail store has good and bad employees. Some know what they are doing, a lot do not.


----------



## rusty baker

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/d0/d0c0bf10-7dd2-47ca-9459-577a22eeeb65.pdf


----------



## mdrngrl

*Allure Ultra*

My basement has a concrete floor and I want to put down something a bit nicer. I have read many of the post here but what I saw at HD yesterday was called Allure Ultra - and does not use adhesive - it just snaps together. I do keep a dehumidifer in the area and also thought about painting the floor first with a "carport" type of paint - even though there does not appear to be a moisture problem. 

Bottom line, I am looking for a firm direction to go - Allure Ultra (that does not require a pad underneath) or hard wood laminate.

I appreciate any and all comments!


----------



## rusty baker

You need to moisture test. If there is a moisture problem, you could have mold growth under eiher of those.


----------



## mdrngrl

Thanks for the response Rusty. I understand that there is a kit I could buy that could confirm this?


----------



## Sllama

*Do not use in a basement!*

Our basement flooded in 2009. After ripping out $1,000 worth of ruined pergo and carpet and correcting the cause of the flooding, we decided to go with Trafficmaster Allure because we thought it would be easy to dry out (by lifting it) God-forbid our basement should ever flood again. 

We loved the look...until 3 months into Spring, the edges began lifting and a mysteriously peanut-butter-ish looking goo began coming up between the seams - only in one area. The goo crystalizes and comes off/up easily, but keeps comding back. Gross!! 

Keep in mind, we did a FIVE day water/moisture test prior to installing any new flooring post-flood which passed with flying colors. Now we suspect mold and hate even going down there because of all the lifting. Needless to say, we're going to have to rip it all out and go with a concrete sealer/stain. At least then we can throw down some area rugs and be done with it.


----------



## rusty baker

Sllama said:


> Keep in mind, we did a FIVE day water/moisture test prior to installing any new flooring post-flood which passed with flying colors. .


What kind of moisture test? I hope not the "tape plastic to the floor" test.


----------



## Sllama

No. My husband owns an ind coatings co and used a lab certified test.


----------



## royco

*Allure traffic master flooring*

we just bought the product to redo our office floor. We started in a small conference room and had small white scratches almost immediately. We went to Home Depot to complain and were sold a polish that we were told would help. We will try it shortly. We were also told the the local manufacturer's rep would visit or call.

We never heard from the rep and have returned all of the unused tile. We do not believe that this product will hold up in an office or high use application. the manufacturer's hype simply is not true. 

The seller, Home Depot was TERRIFIC. They accepted a return on all unused product and did their best to make the Allure rep contact us. They could not have been nicer to us. That said, we have a conference room with a new floor that will probably only give us a few years. DO NOT BUY THIS PRODUCT!


----------



## llester

We put the Trafficmaster Allure in our den several years ago and I am still very pleased with it. I will say it does have some scratches here and there, but we are probably going to have scratches no matter what we have because we have a dog and cats. When we have new guests over, they don't notice that it isn't real wood. I came on this board today because I am considering putting the remaining tiles that we still have from the last project in our guest bathroom. I was wondering what would happen if I could put it down over ceramic tiles.


----------



## rusty baker

rusty baker said:


> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/d0/d0c0bf10-7dd2-47ca-9459-577a22eeeb65.pdf


 
Be different, read the installation instructions.


----------



## idahohomeowner

*Questions about edging*

We want to use Allure Traffic Master on our home’s split level entry. It is bounded on one side by the front door threshold and on the opposite side by stairs going up and down. The other two opposite sides are walls with molding. Our entry way is approximately 5 by 7 feet. The front door is a French door. We do not have storm doors, and the outside conditions range from snow drifts to 100+ degrees.

What should we use on the edge facing the threshold? We are confused by the need to keep the new floor from curling up, and the need to allow it to float. 

On the stairs going down, we plan to use to use bull nose trim. How can we do this and still have the floor float?
On the stairs going up, how do we keep the floor edge from curling, again, allowing it to float?

If we used caulk on the threshold edge will that allow the floor enough room for expansion and contraction?


----------



## podunkians

We're putting Allure flooring down in our just refinished basement with cement floors (not a leak in 30+ years) and I was wondering...if I can't remove the just installed AND painted baseboards should I butt up against them or leave a 1/8" gap. Also I think I should put down a mold retardant and seal the floor. What would you recommend?


----------



## rusty baker

Buy something else.


----------



## Susanne

*Allure Flooring*

Hi. I love my allure flooring but I wish it were a little shinier. Has anyone tried using any product such as mop & glo on the allure?


----------



## rusty baker

Any product containing wax, like Mop and Glo, will make the finish duller. You are never to wax any no-wax floor.


----------



## Sonya_

*Allure over old plank floors*

I have read the first 39 pages but have not seen an answer to this question. 

I want to install Allure over a 50 year old plank floor. Some boards are a bit uneven and worse, as I started tearing up the hidious 50 year old tack strip under the carpet I realized there are some odd, very large and heavy nails in the floor around the edges that I cannot remove (these things have 1/2 inch wide round heads on them and they are in there for good, but don't raise up more than 1/8th of an inch or so, I can't seem to pound them in flush with a hammer). I only anticipate the big nails being an issue in the door opening area, the house is small so there isn't a lot of exposed floor space, nothing bigger than 4' x 6' with the furniture and all.

Question is this: If I do not CARE about minor imperfections showing up from the slightly raised boards and I lay the Allure WITHOUT a 1/8th inch plywood subfloor underneath WILL THE SEAMS SPLIT? Or will I just end up with little bumps or raised areas where the plank boards aren't quite flush. I am using the wood plank pattern so that will probably hide the indentations from the real planks fairly well.

I am renting this little house, I have 6 dogs (hence the need for vinyl flooring) and I just want something clean that won't split at the seams. I am a single female doing this by myself which is why if the subfloor is only for cosmetic reasons maybe I won't want to bother putting one in. If I absolutely must put something underneath in order to keep the floor from breaking or seams from ripping open is 1/8th inch plywood the best choice, or is there some super easy underlay matting that would work better. If the floor will be warmer or somehow more comfortable to walk on (and lay on in the case of the dogs) with the plywood subfloor that might make a difference.


----------



## Sonya_

Followup -- I called the Halstead claims department to ask my questions. Thought I would post their response in case others have wondered:

1) They said the seams will not open or break if layed over a slightly uneven plank floor but of course the floor will eventually conform to the subfloor underneath, so if the cosmetic issues do not bother me it should not be a problem.

2) I asked if the wood grain patterns are known to have the "chemical odor" problems and they said the chemical odor is rare, but the person I talked to did not seem to think it affected some patterns over others. She also said all flooring is made in the same factory in China.

3) She tried to talk me into the Allure Ultra (dollar more a sq ft). It is a thicker heavier floor however it does not have the same glue strips and must be "wiggled" into place. For a weakling DIY type like me she agreed the cheaper Allure trafficmaster floor would be lighter and easier to install due to the adhesive strips. 

She said dog pee can break down the adhesive over time. She also recommended using vinegar and water to clean the floor (sounds like a great cleaner if one can tolerate a vinegar smell).


----------



## zp wnc

*Basement Install*

I too plan to install flooring in a remodeled basement (partially buried) with existing cement floor. 
I want to avoid mold. If Allure is not the answer, what is?????
Should I just put down large area rugs and that can be cleaned or is there a magic product out there?


----------



## Sonya_

zp wnc said:


> I too plan to install flooring in a remodeled basement (partially buried) with existing cement floor.
> I want to avoid mold. If Allure is not the answer, what is?????
> Should I just put down large area rugs and that can be cleaned or is there a magic product out there?


Since no experts are replying (and I ain't no expert) I think you probably can use Allure you just have to research cement vapor barriers and then use one even if the floor doesn't "seem" to be damp.

If you notice all the problems seem to be with people "testing" the floor by taping down plastic to see how much moisture accumulates, and then deciding there is no moisture so it is fine to install without any vapor barrier. Course temperatures may play into it too, yet people with RV's seem happy with it and those temps can't always be constant.

Might want to look into Allure Ultra because instead of adhesive it has some sort of tongue and groove method, maybe that would be better (with a vapor barrier of course).


----------



## rusty baker

A vapor barrier won't keep moisture from causing mold under the barrier.


----------



## Sonya_

rusty baker said:


> A vapor barrier won't keep moisture from causing mold under the barrier.


Ahhh..good point. I was focused on seams lifting as that seems to be the biggest complaint with cement floors (and if the floor looks good who bothers to lift it up in a search for mold).

So can you answer one of my previous questions? The big nails around the edge of the floor? They are pretty obvious, they won't come out...a dremmel took might work to flatten the ones in the doorway?


----------



## rusty baker

I would put a cutting wheel on the dremel and cut the heads off. I'm afraid the unevenness would cause the joints to come apart. I don't know what the nails are, can you post a picture?


----------



## Sonya_

Yes the joints splitting was my concern too, so i called the claims department at Allure (a couple of posts above). They said no worries about the joints splitting if the cosmetic effects aren't a concern.

It is a 50 year old 2" wide unfinished plank subfloor. I don't care about visual imperfections but a big hard nail bump in the doorway to the bedroom will be rather annoying even if it doesn't cause the seams to lift. 

If you read the posts above the whole story is laid out (in more detail than most want to know). If a 1/8th subfloor will make it more comfortable for me or the dogs then I will consider it, but the Allure folks say don't bother.


----------



## zp wnc

*Superseal barrier?*

http://www.superseal.ca/all_in_one_subfloor.html

Anyone have any experience with this stuff? Could I use this under the Allure flooring to protect against mold. 

If not, then what product can I use in my basement?


----------



## rusty baker

Sonya_ said:


> Yes the joints splitting was my concern too, so i called the claims department at Allure (a couple of posts above). They said no worries about the joints splitting if the cosmetic effects aren't a concern.
> 
> It is a 50 year old 2" wide unfinished plank subfloor. I don't care about visual imperfections but a big hard nail bump in the doorway to the bedroom will be rather annoying even if it doesn't cause the seams to lift.
> 
> If you read the posts above the whole story is laid out (in more detail than most want to know). If a 1/8th subfloor will make it more comfortable for me or the dogs then I will consider it, but the Allure folks say don't bother.


 Sorry, but these tech departments have a history of giving wrong information. I would err on the side of caution.


----------



## Sonya_

rusty baker said:


> I would put a cutting wheel on the dremel and cut the heads off. I'm afraid the unevenness would cause the joints to come apart. I don't know what the nails are, can you post a picture?


Note the nail rises higher than the dime. Sorry for the fuzzy photo. That sucker is in their tight, I can't even gouge out the stuff under/around it.

My gut does tell me to lay a 1/8th inch subfloor.


----------



## rusty baker

Concrete nails. Maybe put in with a 22 cal . If you strike them sideways, the heads will usually pop off.


----------



## Sonya_

Thank you! Yes hitting it sideways worked. Plus I got up all the tackboard (the first part was ancient, thank god the rest of the room turned out to be newer) and the floor looks very level and tight once I started yanking carpet away from the door.

I won't need a subfloor. I can do this way faster than I thought. I am jazzed and have the first shipment of Allure on it's way.


----------



## Alex5567

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=YbfC6kZ7N_w
allure fire testing


----------



## diyer99

*Trafficmaster Allure vinyl flooring.*



Ash74 said:


> Here's the deal....
> 
> I've been in flooring for a number of years and I know my stuff but Im always looking for ways to better educate my associates and my customers.
> 
> Recently I've been looking into the Allure vinyl flooring. We had a customer that bought around 50 boxes to do their whole first floor then got cold feet when it came time to install. Because this is considered a DIY product, our installers in this market will not install Allure Flooring.
> 
> Everything Ive seen on this product looks like it would be simple to install but the cust returned the floor and went with something else. Install aside, Im leery of the claim that the product is truly "water resistant".
> 
> What I would like to know is what everyone else thinks about Allure, good and bad. I've read a couple messages on the boards here so far so I know we already have a mixed bag.
> 
> Thanks for your time and your thoughts.[/q
> 
> It is thick and excellent flooring. It costs more than laminate flooring. It is easy to install, but it takes a little patience to roll it down versus putting it down flat all at once. My neighbor bought the Sedona stone-look and it is beautiful.


----------



## rusty baker

We had a regular here for a while who worked for HD. He encountered so many problems with Allure that he no longer pushed it.


----------



## Bud Cline

My hat comes off to those installers that won't touch those installs. Good for them. If the big box stores want to cater only to DIY's then let them. Just think of how many people would have bought it but didn't want to install it. Those are "sales lost". 

You Can Do It We Can Help.

Those places have been trying to run pro installers out of business for years.


----------



## Sonya_

*Using electric sheet metal shears?*

Okay, installed Allure in the first room and am pleased so far. Am preparing to install in the living room and that will require a lot more cuts. I did use manual sheet metal shears but still struggled a bit. 

*Has anyone used electric sheet metal shears on this stuff?* Would that work or would the flooring be too thick? I will order some site unseen online if they will probably work.

Also...since some here are sooo helpful (and the help is very much appreciated). While pulling up carpeting I came across this odd bolt/cable thing under the carpet at the end of a little hallway. The house is old and electric only so it doesn't seem like it would be for a gas line, there is no natural gas service here. I am afraid to go under the house to see where it goes (arachnophobia) and if I leave it, it will be jutting out of the floor. *Does anyone know what this is? *










Pix of the floor as it covered a rather abused plank floor...am very pleased with how it came out:


----------



## DangerMouse

Looks to be gas to me. Does it move up and down?

DM


----------



## Sonya_

DangerMouse said:


> Looks to be gas to me. Does it move up and down?


It moves a little, won't lift up much though. Maybe I will leave it. Sadly if there was an old gas heater connected to a propane tank in years past they must have patched up all the vents and such.


----------



## DangerMouse

If it's "gooseneck" under there, it's likely for gas. 

What room is this in?

DM


----------



## Sonya_

DangerMouse said:


> What room is this in?


This is a tiny 650 sq ft house...a living area with two bedrooms on one end. This gas line thing is at the end of the hall between the two little bedrooms (which would be the best place for a heater to warm the whole house). It is not near an external wall though, so if it had been vented it must have been through the ceiling (that area of the ceiling was recently patched when an electrician stepped through part of the ceiling).


----------



## DangerMouse

Find a neighborhood kid to brave the arachnids and see what it is and where it goes. 
You may want to reuse it for heat?

DM


----------



## kwikfishron

If it’s not going to be used then get rid of it. 

Going around it with your new flooring is just wrong.


----------



## Sonya_

DangerMouse said:


> You may want to reuse it for heat?


My thoughts exactly. I planned to get a propane tank and portable heater in the event of power outages during the winter. Thing is I am renting the house and don't want to install a permanent heater that requires vents and such (I am already spending several hundred on the flooring).


----------



## DangerMouse

What is your present heat source? Furnace? Propane? NG? Electric?

DM


----------



## Sonya_

DangerMouse said:


> What is your present heat source? Furnace? Propane? NG? Electric?


Electric. Window unit for heat/air and space heater for the bedroom. When the power is out we have nothing, no heat, no water, etc... The monthly electric bills aren't bad though.

Before investing several hundred in a vented wall heater which I would have to leave if I ever move I might just get a backup propane generator instead. They are more expensive but if/when I move I could take it with me.


----------



## rusty baker

Some of the small gas heaters are unvented. Probably what that was for.


----------



## DangerMouse

For a home that small, I'd consider asking your landlord to help (read "pay for") set up/install a transfer switch so you can go buy a small generator. Ours sees it's fair share of use out here in the boonies, that's for sure! 3 and 4 times a year at least!

DM


----------



## rusty baker

I guess what I don't understand is YOU installing flooring in a house you are renting, unless it is coming off the rent.


----------



## Bud Cline

I suppose asking the landlord what that object is would be totally out of the question. I suppose asking him/her if it is okay to remove it would also out of the question.


----------



## Sonya_

rusty baker said:


> I guess what I don't understand is YOU installing flooring in a house you are renting, unless it is coming off the rent.


Cause I pay very little (like...less than $500 a month) for a country cottage on acreage and I have six dogs (had fewer when I signed the rental agreement, but someone dumped a pregnant stray in front of the house and well...). The house has beige carpeting, any idea what 6 dogs do to beige carpeting? When I rented this place I said I wanted to replace the carpet with vinyl, and they said fine.

They don't hassle me about my dogs, and I don't hassle them about minor repairs. Works out very well. The investment in the flooring is well worth it. I pay my rent on time, I don't bother them and they never bother me, the perfect landlord/renter relationship.



Bud Cline said:


> I suppose asking the landlord what that object is would be totally out of the question. I suppose asking him/her if it is okay to remove it would also out of the question.


I seriously doubt if they even know about it. They bought the house as a rental a few years ago and likely hired carpet layers to replace the old carpet, and the carpet layers saw it and went over it. Since it is next to the baseboard and won't pose a tripping risk I may just leave it.


----------



## Bud Cline

I knew asking them would be out of the question. Just had a feeling.


----------



## Sonya_

Bud Cline said:


> I knew asking them would be out of the question. Just had a feeling.


Yeah well this is the deep south. When I pulled nails and staples out of the plank flooring (in case someone wanted to refinish it later) I eventually realized no one is ever likely to refinish the floors on this tiny 60 old house, but I still try to pull them up just to be a good person in case someone tries in the future.

The 150 acres around here is/was owned by a black family that likely got it as payment for work right after the civil war, and now they are selling it off in chunks for very little money to investors (i.e. my landlords). The value is in the land, not the house. While it is very cheap and I could find a way to buy it if I wanted to, I fear the area will go downhill in another decade or so therefore just want to rent and not own.


----------



## DangerMouse

Sonya_ said:


> Yeah well this is the deep south. When I pulled nails and staples out of the plank flooring (in case someone wanted to refinish it later) I eventually realized no one is ever likely to refinish the floors on this tiny 60 old house, but I still try to pull them up just to be a good person in case someone tries in the future.
> 
> The 150 acres around here is/was owned by a black family that likely got it as payment for work right after the civil war, and now they are selling it off in chunks for very little money to investors (i.e. my landlords). The value is in the land, not the house. While it is very cheap and I could find a way to buy it if I wanted to, I fear the area will go downhill in another decade or so therefore just want to rent and not own.


Yeah... those damn......... meth-heads ruin everything, don't they? 
No-one wants their neighbor's houses blowing up in the middle of the night! (Or in the middle of the DAY for that matter!)

:laughing:

DM


----------



## Sonya_

DangerMouse said:


> Yeah... those damn......... meth-heads ruin everything, don't they?
> No-one wants their neighbor's houses blowing up in the middle of the night! (Or in the middle of the DAY for that matter!)


Meth isn't a problem here, the judges are VERY strict and even pot is unavailable due to the harsh sentences (serious jail time then banishment for meth dealers). We are 30 minutes outside of Macon GA which has become a cesspool of crime, shootings, mayhem etc... and people are fleeing that city. This is country and safe and all but the town will eventually become diversified, which is why I do not want to buy land around here, plus the neighbor says he plans to build a housing tract.


----------



## Bud Cline

> We are 30 minutes outside of Macon GA which has become a cesspool of crime, shootings, mayhem etc... and people are fleeing that city.


Stay close....Obama has another plan for growth and prosperity and ending crime in places like that. Some day Macon will be a _Mecca_ for wealth and good tidings.


----------



## Mojo 716

*Allure Flooring*

1st time user so I may be in the wrong place. Looking at this vinyl flooring to replace carpeting in a walk out basement. No moisture problems now but read some threads where it happened. Assume mold inhibitors will help. Bigger concern is...carpet is glued down and will leave glue lines and residue after I pull up carpet. I'd like to use the plank flooring but that is 2mm thick. Do I need to somehow scrape the cement perfectly clean so there's nothing showing through. Also, I know there's a couple hairline pressure cracks in the concrete. AT one place, I can see a small rise through the carpet. What can I do about that? I am concerned that any uneven spots will really show up with vinyl. Would the Allure commercial flooring be a better alternative? Should I go with one of the thicker products from other mfgrs? Also, can I use this product on stairs? Guy at HD didn't know. I'm guessing I would need some sort of corner bead on the edge of the tread. Do I have to use one of those metal strips?


----------



## Bud Cline

Mojo,

Please take your mojo to another thread, feel free to start your own new thread so as not to hijack this one.:yes:


----------



## DangerMouse

Bud Cline said:


> Stay close....Obama has another plan for growth and prosperity and ending crime in places like that. Some day Macon will be a _Mecca_ for wealth and good tidings.


Is that a nuke-you-lar plan George? roflmao

DM


----------



## DangerMouse

Bud Cline said:


> Mojo,
> 
> Please take your mojo to another thread, feel free to start your own new thread so as not to hijack this one.:yes:


I think we're well beyond THAT point, aren't we?

DM


----------



## Bud Cline

> I think we're well beyond THAT point, aren't we?


Oh! Well maybe. My life is full of confusion here lately. NEVERMIND!!!


----------



## JFOK

*My Experience With Allure Trafficmaster*

I've been in the process of building a home theater/game-room in my basement for the past two years and I'm just about finished. 
I put down the Trafficmaster flooring about two years ago over a clean and dry cement floor, after first vacuuming the cement floor thoroughly and then running the "moisture test" for a week. The test showed no moisture wicking up through floor.
About three months after installation the seams lifted in a few areas, but since I was busy doing other finish work with this room I just let it be. 
Last month I bought some Locktite Superglue, got down on my stomach (to get a good perspective on what areas had lifted), and re-glued about 10 different areas where the floor had lifted at the seams. In all, it took me about an hour to do this. These re-glued areas have held fast since the re-glue and after a thorough cleaning with Zep laminate floor cleaner, the floor looks fantastic. 
I've always kept the humidity at 40-45% (even before the build) with a dehumidifier and the temp has never fallen below 60.
I DON'T work for any home improvement company, but can say with my experience, that with a little extra work, the floor looks great.


----------



## DangerMouse

Bud Cline said:


> My life is full of confusion here lately. NEVERMIND!!!


There there Bud, there there..... it's okay......

DM


----------



## pw5599

IceT said:


> wow .. what a posting.. lets talk about a floor that is BASIC.. Allure is it.. yet we have 500,000 viewers..wow.
> That product is a floor that doesn't match the floors from a Real Flooring retailer..


That's amazing. And out of 500,000 viewers there's a minute number of people posting with complaints, of those most are from those who put it on concrete or in basements. I'd call that a fabulous endorsement of the product.

I put the flooring in an entryway this spring and a kitchen a few weeks ago. Both locations are the ceramic tile looking grey pattern. Worked out great in both locations. I'd suggest using a roller on the seams, I used a bar with two 25lb weights and rolled the seams right after installing each tile. 

The glue strips that are cut off can be attached to underside of other tiles so you can use that entire tile where needed. (no need to cut off the strip next to a wall etc.)

I like the idea of a floating floor like this. I just went through a horrible mess scrapping off particle board underlay with 1000 nails in it and lino glued to it, yuk! After the crap board was off I screwed down 4'x4' sheets of SurePly underlay. When I'm done with this floor, I'll remove the baseboards, roll it up, throw it out....easy! 

I would never use this floor on concrete, or any other vinyl flooring for that matter.


----------



## MissRedo

Alright... I've read through about 35 pages of this thread. Got some great tips! Thanks everyone.

I have a question... We have sheet vinyl flooring in right now and are thinking of redoing our whole condo (720 sq. ft.) with Allure. There are two spots I'm worried about though. As a novice home-improver I would appreciate any advice!

There's one area in our kitchen where we removed a wall during a previous remodel, and just added a shoddy patch of the sheet vinyl for a temorary fix since we knew we'd be replacing the floors soon anyway. Well that "patch" is now peeling up on the edge:








And there's one short wall where the vinyl is peeling up at the baseboard:









I know we need to get these areas glued down before we install Allure, but I have two questions...

1. What type of adhesive should we use to ensure it stays down? 

And 2. My husband is concerned that even if we glue it down it will start to detach again eventually and ruin the look of the Allure that's laid over it. Should we even bother gluing? He thinks we need to rip all the current vinyl up and start fresh... but that seems like it'll be a lot of work so I wanted to ask first to be sure.

Thanks so much in advance!


----------



## rusty baker

Trim off the curled areas and fill smooth with cementious based floor patch.


----------



## DangerMouse

rusty baker said:


> Trim off the curled areas and fill smooth with cementious based floor patch.


That sure looks like a lot of filling though, wouldn't it be easier/faster/better to just pull up the old? ... or maybe not?

DM


----------



## rusty baker

DangerMouse said:


> That sure looks like a lot of filling though, wouldn't it be easier/faster/better to just pull up the old? ... or maybe not?
> 
> DM


You could be right. Just depends on how well it is stuck.


----------



## DangerMouse

Ah.... good point that one.... hmmm, from the looks of how much it's curling/rising up already, I think I'd give it a try. I'm betting whatever adhesive they used is failing/has failed enough to make it worth the effort? Of course, you'd know better than I would. 

DM


----------



## MissRedo

sorry, double post.


----------



## MissRedo

Thanks for the input! The parts that are peeling are shoddy re-done areas... I'm afraid the rest is sealed down really well... I guess y'all are suggesting that gluing back down isn't an option at all?

The rest of the 720 sq. feet is still holding down fine. I just shudder to imagine how much a pain in the a** it would be to pull out all of it because this sheet vinyl runs throughout the _entire_ condo. The part that's actually lifted is probably only about 4 square feet total, running in two long, 3 inch wide rows.

Maybe the trim and fill method first suggested would be best?


----------



## DangerMouse

I'm not personally suggesting anything. I'm not the expert that rusty is.  Listen to him if you want it done right!

DM


----------



## rusty baker

Getting the curled areas to re-stick is not easy. It usually collects a lot of dirt under the edges. You could try and if it doesn't work, then trim and fill.


----------



## MissRedo

Thanks! You're definitely right about the dirt... it's probably not even worth trying to glue back down since one area is highly trafficked. We'll got he trim and fill route. :thumbsup:


----------



## DavidNY

has anyone successfully removed scuffs from sneakers and furniture from this type of floor??

i just put this floor in for a customer and one of my (Former) new guys scuffed it with his sneakers and pushed a piece of furniture over it. 
the floor has no scratches on it as all of the material is still on it but these scuff marks ARE NOT GOING away and it looks like i am going to have to eat it and buy a new floor.


----------



## DangerMouse

DavidNY said:


> has anyone successfully removed scuffs from sneakers and furniture from this type of floor??
> 
> i just put this floor in for a customer and one of my (Former) new guys scuffed it with his sneakers and pushed a piece of furniture over it.
> the floor has no scratches on it as all of the material is still on it but these scuff marks ARE NOT GOING away and it looks like i am going to have to eat it and buy a new floor.


I have no idea, but you'd do much better posting this question in a thread of your own and posting a photo or two will help as well. Details about the flooring will also help..... manufacturer, age, etc..

DM


----------



## DavidNY

DangerMouse said:


> I have no idea, but you'd do much better posting this question in a thread of your own and posting a photo or two will help as well. Details about the flooring will also help..... manufacturer, age, etc..
> 
> DM


Allure Trafficmaster Teak 3 Days old including TODAY.


----------



## rusty baker

One of the vinyl "experts" should be along to answer your question.


----------



## Maximilian

*Trafficmaster Allure problems*

I installed this flooring in a guest bedroom this past March. Installation was easy enough, over luan underlayment in a second floor corner room, but within a day I noticed the stench. I hoped it would go away, and shut the door. The stench is still there 8 months later. It gives me a headache if I leave the door open or if I stay in the room for more than a few minutes. This is a corner room and I keep it around 55F. Here is the weird thing: there were always a few spiders in the corner by the ceiling, which I would vacuum from time to time, but in the fall and winter, the ladybugs would overwinter there and would clean up the remaining spiders. This year, the ladybugs are in another guest room. In the room with the Allure flooring, no spiders, no ladybugs, it's quiet, like a tomb. If spiders are the most resilient creature on earth, we have found a product to exterminate them with... Of course, I'm ready to rip this stuff out. I must contact Halstead to get a refund and damages. Who has had success dealing with them on this? Thank you.

Max


----------



## weehooker

I installed it in my kitchen about 3 years ago and LOVET it. Much more quiet and scratch resistant than teh laminate it replaced. neighbor still thinks it's wood. 
FWWI, not as impressed with the alure ultra though. Has a chalky look and is much more dificult to lay.


----------



## Canadagoose

*Allure flooring in basement*

My sister put Allure planks in her basement about 2 years ago and it looks awesome. However, a few of the planks are separating at the seams and I don't know what she's done about that. We just installed the Traffic Master "tile" planks and had several problems. Several of the corners are lifting, some of the tiles weren't square and therefore show thick lines between tiles. They are very difficult to separate, especially if you heat them like suggested with a blow dryer if you live in a cold climate and it's winter. I think they are best suited to a new room, with nothing in it (we installed it in the kitchen), so there isn't so much cutting. Use a good quality utilily knife and score it at least 3 times before attempting to "snap" it. Make sure you have each seam lined up exactly. We have decided against using it in our living room, and are going with laminate.


----------



## AussieWendy

*About to lay allure in my newly purchased condo*

Hi to all,

First post here.

I purchased 33 boxes of the Allure in Cherry this weekend. I am going to start ripping up the carpet next week and start my job.

I have the moisture barrier, duck tape to tape the moisture barrier to the floor (it is concrete), I bought a hand roller from Home Depot and was explained how to apply my full body weight to pressure (I am 130lbs so should be good).

I also purchased a piece of plywood to use as a starting point to keep the flooring the 1/8 inch away from the wall.

The Home Depot guy also sold me two tubes of silicone and said it would be a great idea to go around that gap with this silicone once it is all laid. What is everyone's opinon on this. I agree for bathrooms etc, think it is a safe bet for bedroom/living space too?

I will take many pics and give some updates as I go.

Wendy:thumbsup:


----------



## Canadagoose

Hi Wendy, 

At least you got some advice from the Home Depot. I checked with HD in the last couple of days and the guy I spoke with told me unless the floor is absolutly flat, there will be cracks. Our is flat, but the tiles aren't all square. The cracks are separating even more and I was sold some silicone II to use for the cracks and Super Glue for the lifting corners. As far as I'm concerned, the flooring isn't what it's advertised to be and I won't be recommending it to anyone. Every one has to decide for themselves, Check out utube videos on the product as you may get some installment help there as well as other help.


AussieWendy said:


> Hi to all,
> 
> First post here.
> 
> I purchased 33 boxes of the Allure in Cherry this weekend. I am going to start ripping up the carpet next week and start my job.
> 
> I have the moisture barrier, duck tape to tape the moisture barrier to the floor (it is concrete), I bought a hand roller from Home Depot and was explained how to apply my full body weight to pressure (I am 130lbs so should be good).
> 
> I also purchased a piece of plywood to use as a starting point to keep the flooring the 1/8 inch away from the wall.
> 
> The Home Depot guy also sold me two tubes of silicone and said it would be a great idea to go around that gap with this silicone once it is all laid. What is everyone's opinon on this. I agree for bathrooms etc, think it is a safe bet for bedroom/living space too?
> 
> I will take many pics and give some updates as I go.
> 
> Wendy:thumbsup:


----------



## AussieWendy

*Planks?*



Canadagoose said:


> Hi Wendy,
> 
> At least you got some advice from the Home Depot. I checked with HD in the last couple of days and the guy I spoke with told me unless the floor is absolutly flat, there will be cracks. Our is flat, but the tiles aren't all square. The cracks are separating even more and I was sold some silicone II to use for the cracks and Super Glue for the lifting corners. As far as I'm concerned, the flooring isn't what it's advertised to be and I won't be recommending it to anyone. Every one has to decide for themselves, Check out utube videos on the product as you may get some installment help there as well as other help.


Hi Canadagoose,

So you purchased the tiles, not the vinyl planks? I purchased the planks.

Wendy


----------



## UMLBB10

I recently put down Allure Ultra planks. the click together planks, not stick together. If that's what we're talking about I have some advice. 
as you get going, make absolute sure each seam is locked in completely 100% without a doubt. no gray area showing and the two planks are flush and flat against each other. take you time and check every seam as you go. i used a tapping block to make sure each seam was locked in. if seams are not fully locked in you'll wake up the next morning and regret it. overall i give the product thumbs up. looks great, very durable. but take your time installing it. check , double check, and then check again before moving on to the next plank.


----------



## The Parsons Gro

I have installed trafficmaster allure on 6 different occasions. The problem with the latest install is scuffing. It seems the last batch was more friendly to this scuffing problem. Some around three barstools with felt pads and other areas with just minor shoe traffic. Has anyone else experienced this issue?


----------



## SP1

*traffic master*

I put this in my office, it was easy enough to put in but shows wear patterns pretty quick, i ended up removing it and having a product put in call Karndean Luxury Vinyl Plank and it's fantastic shows no wear at all


----------



## SP1

not as good as Karndean but cheap and easy


----------



## annie68164

Yes, I've had trafficmaster allure in country pine in my large (and well used) kitchen for 3 years now about. Right away scuffs showed up big time, but I have to say its holding up well overall. Seems the scuffs multiple to the point where its not so noticable if that makes sense. I know shortly after installing it though I was like WOW not good! There are a few tiny gouges here and there that I imagine is from my kid's metal toy farm tractors etc. but the gouges do not seem to start the surface "fake wood" peeling or anything like that and they are not at all noticeable unless you really look. I do love the country pine because it does not show dirt, dust, marks, its sort of rugged and earthy and perfect for our busy kitchen. At this point it is a product I would definitely re-purchase in the future. I spent about $500 and two days of easy labor installing it. I haven't had any problems with the glue. I can say make sure your subfloor is fairly smooth and clean because once you lay the planks you can see any imperfections through it. I had a smallish hole of missing wood in the subfloor (how did I not notice that?!) and you can see it through the flooring. Luckily it is under an area rug under the dining table. But yes it does scuff alot but it all seems to even out nicely once its broken in.


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## AussieWendy

*Floors are done*

http://www.diychatroom.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44518&stc=1&d=1327325763

I think my floors turned out AMAZING!!

So easy to install. The hardest part was the prep work after pulling up the carpet to make sure that my concrete was clean and my moisture barrier laid well.

I see no scuffs. I do notice they are dirty quick because they are Cherry colored but I love them so much I don't mind the work.

Only issue I have now is that I did this in a condo before understanding HOA rules and I am in violation of the rules and they are trying to get me to rip it out and put carpet down (they worry about noise for the person under me).

Wendy


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## MissRedo

AussieWendy said:


> I think my floors turned out AMAZING!!
> 
> So easy to install. The hardest part was the prep work after pulling up the carpet to make sure that my concrete was clean and my moisture barrier laid well.
> 
> I see no scuffs. I do notice they are dirty quick because they are Cherry colored but I love them so much I don't mind the work.
> 
> Only issue I have now is that I did this in a condo before understanding HOA rules and I am in violation of the rules and they are trying to get me to rip it out and put carpet down (they worry about noise for the person under me).
> 
> Wendy



@Wendy, it looks great!! We ordered the Barnwood color, and I am waiting on it to be delivered today. We plan to lay it down this weekend.

Question for you- how long did it take, once you got all the prep work done, to lay 33 boxes? That is the EXACT same amount we have ordered to lay in our 720 sq ft condo. I figured you could give me an idea of how long it's going to take us 

Also, any other tips or tricks? We have snips, a blade to score with, and a straight edge. We plan to use our body weight to secure it by sliding over it in socks- I figure my husband's 225 pounds will work just as well or better than a 100 pound roller!


And for everyone else- any tips on laying it underneath appliances like washer/dryer, oven, and fridge?


----------



## AussieWendy

*Some tips for Miss Redo*

It really only too me about 4 hours total for the bedroom, maybe 6 hours for my living room. What slows you down is cutting around edges etc. Make sure you have PLENTY of blades for you utility knife and change them OFTEN!! 

I REALLY suggest you do get a roller. You can get one that is a hand roller from the flooring department of home depot and what you can have your husband do is push his body weight on it and you have your 100lb roller (this is what I did). It is $19.95. It is well worth it but yes, then walk all over it in socks for hours and hours. I did this too. No lifting at all so far.

Just make sure your seems are nice and tight. Do it in as bright a light as you can it will help you make sure your seems are tight. Honestly, it is as easy as you think it is. 

GOOD LUCK!!!

Wendy :thumbsup:


----------



## pw5599

I installed the ceramic tile lookalike style in the front entryway and did try that plastic hand roller from HD but hated it and returned it. So when we did the kitchen I took a dumb bell bar from an old weight set of mine (see, they do have uses!) and two 25lb weights together tight on the bar. I'd hold the bar with 2 hands and roll that across the seams along with some of my body weight. It did the trick and waaay easier to have some with weight behind it to do the work.

I've had no issues whatsoever in my entryway (been almost 1 year) and the kitchen (5 months). 

I found getting all seams completely tight wasnt possible for me. I have since taken a thin scraper to spread grey latex (not silicone!) caulking into the seams that have small gaps and then wipe away excess with a damp cloth. The grey colour matches the tiles perfectly and you cant see it. So far seems to be wearing just fine and you cant see any cracks.

Have I mentioned I hate silicone caulking? The stuff should be banned!


----------



## AussieWendy

*Spot cleaning question*

Hi to all,

What is something I can use to quickly clean up a spill etc but not have to drag out the mop and the special Allure floor cleaner?

Could I just some of those "Green" handy wipes that have no harsh chemicals in it?

Thank you,

Wendy


----------



## AussieWendy

*Did you cut around objects?*

I still have my bathroom and kitchen to do.

Did anyone just cut around the toilet and or around door trim? I am not sure how good it will look around the door trim. I was told by home depot to do this like any other hardwood or laminate product and cut the door trim and slide the Allure under it. Is this what others did? :huh:

Thank you!!

Wendy


----------



## jwr

*Hidden transition strips*

We purchased 25 cartons of the American Walnut planks and are now letting the material acclimate to the room. What is the easiest/quickest manner of making the transition from laying the planks from one direction to another - 90 deg. change when going into another room? I know that there are the hidden transition strips that can be special ordered, but have also seen where others mentioned using the offcut adhesive from the planks themselves. Does this work and is the difference in thickness underlying where the two joined planks noticeable? I can't find anything about the thickness of the hidden transition strips on the Halstead site. If they are the same thickness as the adhesive strips on the planks, there's no reason to have to special order. Last, I can't help but wonder if the transition area with any underlay thickness would be likely to wear or if seams may separate due to a slight hump that would result from using any kind of underlay joint. Thoughts, recommendations, suggestions?
Thanks for any help the board can offer,
RR


----------



## pw5599

AussieWendy said:


> I still have my bathroom and kitchen to do.
> 
> Did anyone just cut around the toilet and or around door trim? I am not sure how good it will look around the door trim. I was told by home depot to do this like any other hardwood or laminate product and cut the door trim and slide the Allure under it. Is this what others did? :huh:
> 
> Thank you!!
> 
> Wendy


Under a doorway that way is fine but anytime I've put flooring in a bathroom the toilet comes off so I can run the flooring under it. And no caulking around the toilet.


----------



## KevinZ

AussieWendy said:


> I still have my bathroom and kitchen to do.
> 
> Did anyone just cut around the toilet and or around door trim? I am not sure how good it will look around the door trim. I was told by home depot to do this like any other hardwood or laminate product and cut the door trim and slide the Allure under it. Is this what others did? :huh:
> 
> Thank you!!
> 
> Wendy


Aussie
This is likely too late for you but for anyone else who would like to avoid the messy task of pulling up the nasty toilet this will work. All you need is a scribing tool, or a standard circle compass, and a sheet metal nibbler. If you want to avoid sticking the tiles together use a peice of the packing paper. Place the tile against the tile it will adhere to and set the scribe to the largest gap between the tile and the toilet. Keeping the scribe point on the toilet and the pencil on the tile trace the outline of the toilet base. When cutting the tile I like to use a sheet metal nibbler to cut rather than standard snips. This is more difficult to use but gives a better cut. cut the tile to size and dry fit it with the paper separating the glue surfaces. if you have done everything right the tile is ready to fit. Hump the tile and tuck it tight to the toilet. When you get to the front of the toilet put the tile against the left side of the installed tile and make sure the distance is equal on both sides of the toilet to the installed tiles on either side. set the gap and follow the above method of scribing. Hope this helps.:thumbup:


----------



## AussieWendy

*Sound Transmission Test on my new vinyl planks*

Hi to all,

This post will never likely be answered but I am trying everything.

I ripped up the carpet and laid my vinyl plank over 6 mil moisture barrier.

Someone reported me to HOA and I recieved a violation notice. NO FLOORS above ground are to be anything but carpet, so now I am fighting the HOA.

They requested I do "Sound Transmission Test" on my floor. 

So, does anyone know any specs about sound on this Allure Vinyl Planks? I think I need to have a rating (Sound Transmission Class) above 45.

Oh, and the test is $2,500. If I don't get the test and pass I must carpet all floors. 

Wendy


----------



## rusty baker

You can't win. You must have signed a contract that says carpet only. Most buildings with a HOA have one. Sorry, but anyone living in that situation needs to ask before they do anything.


----------



## sgbotsford

We've had the oak pattern Allure for 4 years now. The only issues we've had is a slight degree of separation here and there, due to the room's temperature swings. AFTER I installed I found out that you were supposed to keep the room between 65 and 85. In the winter, it can get down to 55, and in the summer 95. Don't put this floor in a sunny room in a northern climate in a wood heated house. THAT said, it will do until I can afford to put down real hardwood.


----------



## HandyGal1

*Traffic Allure vinyl Laminate flooring*

I have placed this product in my kitchen, dining, hallway and entry hall. It has been down over two years, water has been on it, pets and foot traffic is heavy on it. I have found no seperation and it was amazingly simple to install. We have recently removed the carpeting in our formal living room so that we may install the Cherry flooring!! Love this product, have actually installed it in my Mother's entire home, a doublewide, with no problem on the joint of seam of the two halves. Very easy to clean and mop with regular detergent. I installed over concrete slab and my mother's is over plywood flooring. :thumbup: Chose this type of flooring after watching friends place the wood composite laminate flooring down just to have water reach the seams and bubble up and come apart. Be sure that all seams are rolled to secure their seal once you are satisfied with their placement...


----------



## tinan

mike costello said:


> Your not gonna find any floor professional to recommend a product that stands up to pee.
> 
> Pee is very acidic and will etch itself into any vinyl product.


You are incorrect, urine has a neutral pH of 6.5 - 7.5. The ammonia in the urine could react with vinyl if left standing long enough, but it should not harm vinyl is cleaned up within a reasonable period of time (hours).


----------



## sgbotsford

*Revenge on HOA pissants.*



AussieWendy said:


> Hi to all,
> 
> This post will never likely be answered but I am trying everything.
> 
> I ripped up the carpet and laid my vinyl plank over 6 mil moisture barrier.
> 
> Someone reported me to HOA and I recieved a violation notice. NO FLOORS above ground are to be anything but carpet, so now I am fighting the HOA.
> 
> They requested I do "Sound Transmission Test" on my floor.
> 
> So, does anyone know any specs about sound on this Allure Vinyl Planks? I think I need to have a rating (Sound Transmission Class) above 45.
> 
> Oh, and the test is $2,500. If I don't get the test and pass I must carpet all floors.
> 
> Wendy



Buy the cheapest, thinnest carpet you can. Garden centre deck grade astroturf. Old army blankets. Flocked paper. Lay it down to satisfy their requirements.

Put it down OVER the Allure.

Develop an evening exercise routine that involves dropping heavy weights on the floor. Put down a chunk of plywood so you don't dent the Allure through the carpet. Do the excercise routine during every commercial when you are watching TV.

Get your self a collection of sound effect CD's. Transfer a bunch to your computer. Find a program that will play a sound effect at random. Pipe it into your stereo. Buy a set of big, but cheap speakers and wire them to your stereo as Set B. Lay them face down on the floor. 

Whenever you are out start the program with appropriate effects for the time of day. Long periods of vacuuming, using the mixer, playing obnoxious country western songs. Toilets flushing. Garbage disposal. Singing (badly) in the shower. Blender. Drum solos. Cuban metal band music. Organ concertos. Mind numbing TV.

***

OR


As an example, ask to listen at the person below you as someone walks and talks in your unit.

Ask if they would be willing to withdraw the complaint if you put in area rugs that covered 90% of the places you walked. Ask for a 1 month trial.

Put down the area rugs. Take off your shoes when you come in to the flat. 

At the end of the month see if they renew the complaint.

A: Area rugs may be sufficient.
B: In a month they may get used to it.

Meanwhile, find out what the results page looks like from one of these tests. Forge it.

If this doesn't work, find yourself a place in the country, and sell off the condo.


----------



## Missti

We installed 340 sq feet of the "chocolate" ceramic tile look Allure on three days ago. Took approx 10 hours total - two people working (one cutting and laying the tile, me...doing the constant clean up and garbage removal etc.

All in all - it went really well.

After we were about half way through, when the sun came down the hall from the front door I noticed an issue - appears the entire first box of tile had been sitting on something that cause bumps in two of the three tiles - right along the bottom (glue) edge. So...now down the hall I have two rows of these "bumps" consistantly showing down the hall - about 20 in total..down two rows.

Called the company - they had never "heard" of this issue - so other than using the hair dryer and trying to flatten it, they didn't know what else to suggest.

I have started working on it tonight - heated one spot until it was very warm (without burning it - which appearantly CAN happen) and then put two heavy books and a 10 pound weight (stolen from the basement gym  ) on top - then moved along to the next.

I will leave these five little piles of weights down the hall until I get home tomorrow night - so they have 24 hours to settle and cool to the room again.

If that doesn't work - they need to be taken up - and replaced...which I am sure will be very fun. OMG

Other than this issue - I am LOVING the look of the floor. It feels nice under bare feet...its quiet (unlike laminate...which seems to cause an echo in the room) and it looks like real tile to me.

Seams seem to be holding well - we have a few that show a little wee gap - but nothing that bothers me to any extent.

Haven't started on baseboards/quarter round yet - that's coming this weekend...so excited to see the final result once all finished.

For the cost - I think it looks great. For the installation - it went well. 

So far...happy with the choice I made


----------



## Missti

As a follow up to my post (above) - the weird bumps in my floor are now all gone 

I used a hairdryer to warm the floor - heated it slowly (not holding the dryer too close to burn the floor) but for long enough that when I pushed it down with my hand it easily went flat to the floor - I would then heat for another minute or so, then put a heavy book and 10 pound weight on it - left them like that for 24 hours - and it worked just fine.

No other issues - floor has been down 5 days - no seams popping up or any other issues mentioned by other posters. I wake up each morning and inpect the seams like a crazy lady LOL - but it's fine.

I am happy really happy with this floor!


----------



## theycallmegrace

I am considering putting down this flooring. I am not much of a risk taker and have not seen this installed in person so I am reluctant to jump into it. The floor that I would like to install this on is not perfectly flat (old house with settling). We don't want to jack up the house to fix the floor. Would anyone foresee any problem with the floor not being perfectly flat? It seems like it would adjust like old vinyl sheets would have.


----------



## Missti

theycallmegrace said:


> I am considering putting down this flooring. I am not much of a risk taker and have not seen this installed in person so I am reluctant to jump into it. The floor that I would like to install this on is not perfectly flat (old house with settling). We don't want to jack up the house to fix the floor. Would anyone foresee any problem with the floor not being perfectly flat? It seems like it would adjust like old vinyl sheets would have.


My house is over 100 years old, and in the kitchen - just off the hallway - there is a "hump" in my floor. One of those things that is noticable to anyone, but ya just get used to. Also, where the carpet was removed from my hall - the entrance floor was 1/4 higher (plywood underlay) which we used a floor filler on to transition to the lower floor...kinda like a little "ramp" from one level to another. I was not able/willing to rip up and lay all new plywood to fix such a small issue - and I am fine with the results.

The flooring has been in about a month now, and I am totally happy with it all. It has settled in just fine over any unlevel areas, and there have been no issues/lifting/seam issues since I posted my previous issue with the bumps (in posts above).

I think - this flooring will be just fine for you. For me - the only thing I wish was different is the "finish" of the floor - it has a beautiful color (I used the chocolate tile look...) and a "leather" look finish to it - but when I look from my kitchen toward the front door when the sun comes in, it is dull looking and just sorta disappears. I am used to the old "shiney" vinyl flooring, and my hall had carpet - so it just seems so different now. Just something I have to get used to - kinda miss that shiney look.

No other issues or complaints. For the $1200 cost - I love it!!

Best wishes!


----------



## judyk

*business owner*

3yrs with my Traffic Master Allure Flooring
I own an auto repair shop. We installed it in our office/waiting room. It is a love hate relationship after three years now. 
A+ CLEANABILITY I love how easy it is to keep clean.
A+ LOOKS My customers think it is wood most of the time and comment on how beautiful it is. 
A+ INSTALLATION it was quick and easy it took about 2 hrs to cover roughly 1000sqft with lots of door ways, hall, around counters and a toilet etc. 
A++ DURABILITY I have five auto techs walking on the flooring all day. I would say we are giving it medium to heavy industrial traffic and it is holding up amazingly! If you are putting it in a home I would have no durability worries this stuff is like STEEL! 
PRODUCT PROBLEMS: Now for my dislikes. Several boxes had been droped by HD employees and the corner of the pieces in these boxes were ever so slightly tipped down. I didn't think it would be a problem wow was I wrong. they laid right down during installation but soon curled up and will not stay down. this is my fault for installing a less than perfect product. I should have exchanged all damaged pieces. The piece has to be perfectly flat or no go. 
The other problem is we installed on a cold december day and now during the summer we have lots of bucking especially in the morning when the sun hits it. I recommend having the rpoduct in the area it will be installed in for several days to get all of the pieces to room temperature. To hot and you WILL have gaps, to cold and you WILL have buckleing. and then keep direct sun off of it. the shrikage and expantion margins on this product are considerable so beware of areas that have large temp swings. this floor will have problems in those areas.


----------



## Menlo

*Allure waterproof or not?*

I'm looking at the product description pages for TrafficMaster Allure 12" x 36" products from Home Depot. Every spec page I've looked at under "Waterproof" says "No". Specifically the 12" x 36" Corsica Vinyl Flooring, store SKU 457976.

I'm concerned as this product has been suggested as a bathroom floor alternative to regular good old sheet vinyl.

I've read many pages of this thread and see where many have put it in bathrooms. Haven't found one problem. Is it truly a good floor for a bathroom in a manufactured home?

Appreciate any comments and Thanks...


----------



## everylastbreath

This post is addressed to the people who had NO PROBLEMS installing this flooring. We have roughly 550sq to install and my poor husband has taken the floor appart & restarted it 3 times trying to get it to stay together! as for the "Easiest Installation Ever" I say BS! My husband has built rooms in quicker time, at this rate this floor might take until the 4th of July to finish! 

Please tell me, people who have had no problems installing, what's the trick?


----------



## SP1

*Allure value*

IF THEY WANT MORE THAN 10 CENTS A CASE DON'T BUY IT. I PUT IT IN A RENTAL HOUSE BATHROOM WITH AN 73 YR OLD TENANT AND IT LASTED 3 MONTHS BEFORE IT FELL APART:furious:


----------



## SP1

*Allure flooring*

Quit being so cheap and buy either karndean or mannington your going to pay the same amount by the time your done


----------



## rusty baker

Menlo said:


> I'm looking at the product description pages for TrafficMaster Allure 12" x 36" products from Home Depot. Every spec page I've looked at under "Waterproof" says "No". Specifically the 12" x 36" Corsica Vinyl Flooring, store SKU 457976.
> 
> I'm concerned as this product has been suggested as a bathroom floor alternative to regular good old sheet vinyl.
> 
> I've read many pages of this thread and see where many have put it in bathrooms. Haven't found one problem. Is it truly a good floor for a bathroom in a manufactured home?
> 
> Appreciate any comments and Thanks...


 No it is not a good bathroom floor.


----------



## JetSwet

Allure vinyl planks are ok for bathrooms same as P&S and people use that highly in bathrooms.

Trafficmaster laminate is cheap yes but can look good if done correctly, it's hard times for people out there and that's why these products are out there.


----------



## Burchie

*Allure flooring*

Don't do it! We are currently in the process of pulling up the Allure flooring from our basement, ($2000 worth) It was installed over concrete and the edges are curling up all over the place! It hasn't been down a year yet. This is horrible stuff. We are now having to spend another $2000 to replace it..with something else. Save yourself the headache.:cursing:


----------



## JetSwet

Burchie said:


> Don't do it! We are currently in the process of pulling up the Allure flooring from our basement, ($2000 worth) It was installed over concrete and the edges are curling up all over the place! It hasn't been down a year yet. This is horrible stuff. We are now having to spend another $2000 to replace it..with something else. Save yourself the headache.:cursing:


Did you call the rep at allure tell them to send some one out?!.. To look


----------



## slonej75

*My Allure Nightmare*

After reading numerous unanswered questions regarding the strong odor of Trafficmaster Allure vinyl flooring on this thread, dating as far back as 2008, I feel the need to comment. I purchased this product from my local Home Depot store and had it installed by Home Depot certified installers (on top of new subfloor) a little over two weeks ago. I purchased both the Country Pine plank and Yukon Tan tile varieties. I have no complaints regarding the Yukon Tan tile, however the strong chemical odor coming from the Country Pine plank was present from day one of the install. When I questioned this, the installers assured me that the odor would go away after a few days. Although the Country Pine plank looks great in my home, the odor is still present and hasn't diminished whatsoever. We've even slept with the windows open for a week straight with fans blowing the inside air outside. In addition to just being a foul smell, the odor is clearly the cause of frequent headaches and allergy & asthma symptoms that started on . . . you guessed it . . . day one of the install. I spoke to the "flooring specialist" at Home Depot about this, but his only response was: "We seem to sell a lot of it and I've haven't heard any complaints about the smell. I'm sure it will go away after a while." Feeling defeated, I went home and decided that maybe I was indeed losing my mind as I had never heard of anyone encountering this type of situation. Later that night, I typed "allure vinyl flooring odor" into Google and stumbled upon this website: http://ottoblotto.blogspot.com/2009/08/allure-flooring-stinks.html. The main article is a good starting point, but the numerous replies are the most telling. Apparently my situation is not only common, but indeed startlingly frequent. My next step is to immediately have the flooring removed (because I don't want to breath it for one more day) and contact the manufacturer, Halstead Corp, for some type of refund, although I'm sure that I'll be footing the bill for both the install, removal, and installation of another type of flooring. Shame on you, Home Depot. :furious:


----------



## miriamcdb

*Problems with Allure flooring too- advice?*

We put down about 1000 sq feet of it. At first, it looked lovely. Now, approx. 5 months later, it is buckling at almost all of the seams. We put it over concrete in a basement. Had an extensive discussion with flooring expert at HD about what kind of flooring to buy for the basement. The basement is dry, so moisture is not the problem.

Yesterday, I spent 5 hours non-stop with a heat gun going over the seams and hoping to melt the adhesive and reglue. It appeared to work and then alas - all buckling again this morning!

Do not want to take it all up. We had asbestos tile underneath, and although it was professionally removed, it looked like small pieces were remaining, and I'm worried that walking on the Allure may have pulverized the pieces. Hopefully not.

Am willing to superglue all the edges of the Allure if it would work!!

Open to any ideas- Please help!! Thanks! New to this forum, so wasn't sure whether or not to post this as a reply or new post. Thanks again in advance for any suggestions. It just seems like there has to be a way to reglue the edges. I know it will be tedious, but don't want to remove the floor.


----------



## Garden Chick

*Allure Floor Problem*

Did you check the moisture content of your concrete prior to installing the Allure? Or use a basement proofer or some other sort of moisture barrier?


----------



## miriamcdb

We did check the moisture levels prior to putting down the flooring (used some method recommended in the Allure instructions). No moisture from that method. Did not use a vapor barrior because it was not mentioned in the instructions or mentioned in the extensive conversation we had with HD salesperson prior to purchasing the product. Yes, it would be nice to recoup the money, but our main concern is keeping the floor completely covered. So hoping to repair it. Thanks for your reply Gardenchick


----------



## Big-Foot

A lot of good information in this thread. I will be laying down a couple hundred sf in the kitchen within the coming weeks. Only mildly concerned about the potential moisture in the rear entryway of the house which will also be covered in this as it is right off one corner of the kitchen.
Thinking about silicone RTV where the flooring runs under the back door's threshhold. IE - RTV between the threshhold and the door. The RTV should allow the floor to float to a somewhat limited degree..

Any thoughts on this?

BTW - this is part of a renovation of our almost 100 year old home in Minneapolis..

Regards - Randy


----------



## Big-Foot

Big-Foot said:


> A lot of good information in this thread. I will be laying down a couple hundred sf in the kitchen within the coming weeks. Only mildly concerned about the potential moisture in the rear entryway of the house which will also be covered in this as it is right off one corner of the kitchen.
> Thinking about silicone RTV where the flooring runs under the back door's threshhold. IE - RTV between the threshhold and the door. The RTV should allow the floor to float to a somewhat limited degree..
> 
> Any thoughts on this?
> 
> BTW - this is part of a renovation of our almost 100 year old home in Minneapolis..
> 
> Regards - Randy


Bubbling back to the top...

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks!

Regards - Randy


----------



## annie68164

I've had our Trafficmaster allure floor now for about 4 years in our kitchen. It's held up very well, no problem whatsover with the glue strips coming undone, they are perfectly solid. Our refrigerator has been defrosted and had water pouring out of it, the icemaker was dropping ice all over that was forgotten and melted, dishwasher went through a bad leaking phase, kids spilling drinks,people come in with snowy shoes in the winter (I have a rug but with 3-4 people coming in at once that snow gets everywhere) so this floor stands up to water very well. I do know it seems that people who install this on a basement floor have trouble with the glue strips sticking but for me personally using it on a main floor kitchen I am quite satisfied with this floor. I would follow the directions exactly (I made sure to do that) and did not use silicone, don't know if I would mess with it. Besides doing anything beyond what the directions say will surely void your warranty if you end up needing it. I've posted in the past on the fact that the floor does scuff and get light scratches, that is true esp. around an entryway but in my opinion its hardly noticeable over time, hard to explain but once the floor is "broken in" it all blends well. Good luck!


----------



## Big-Foot

Thanks Annie.. I have read every post in this thread now.. WoW!

I appreciate your answer and review of the product. Sounds just like the way I will install mine! :thumbup:

Regards - Randy


----------



## csl7037

*Good over time?*

I've not read every post like Randy, I'll go back and pour through (just not when I should be working). But I'm excited that these posts go back several years. Has the experience here been good over time? I'm reading mixed things and would love some reassurance. We put this down in our master bathroom last night as a trial. For $120, we figured it was worth a shot. We're DESPERATE to avoid busting up old tile all over the house, even if just for a relatively short term fix. The expense and MESS of that is just so much more than I can handle right now. But our tile is in awful shape, it's unbearable. This might be our solution.


----------



## Big-Foot

I am far from a statistician (did I even spell it correctly?), but I figure it like this:

Basement failures - seem to be rather high a few years back, but not so much over the last couple of years.

Installations in potentially wet/damp areas (not basement) seem to hold up relatively well.

Most people leaving their reviews here and elsewhere I have found the topic, are newcomers.

Most people that seek out internet forums like this are doing so to become informed. Or, they seek out forums like this to post a bad review. Face it - when was the last time you bought a product that did what the mfgr claimed it would do, then go looking for a forum to leave a glowing review? Uh huh.. That's kind of what I thought. To those of you who did just that - THANK YOU!

So - outside of the disgruntled basement installers (I feel badly for them and hope they get resolution), I would estimate that 8 out of 10 people liked the product well enough to rate it high (let's just call that 4+ stars out of 5).
The rest do count - but not so much against the product.

Reality check -
You're buying a product for about a Buck-fifty a square foot. You're probably not in the $4 a square foot camp because of budget - or you wouldn't be reading my post on this thread.

Bottom line -
I have not laid mine down (yet) but will be in the next couple of weeks.
I am not expecting a miraculous transformation and have floors that look like a million bucks. Like you, I am on a budget that means either I use a product like this, or buy something more expensive that would preclude my buying groceries.

Like many others here - I will post my review of the installation and follow up every 90 days for a year or so. If things go well in the kitchen with this, I may well ditch my plans for carpeting in the living room and do that as well. Only issue with the LR is that the almost 100 year old hardwood floors are in rather sorry condition and a bit on the wavy side.. 

Thanks for the bandwidth and I hope your projects turn out as well as you had hoped! :yes:

Regards - Randy


----------



## annie68164

Well said Big Foot. I think you'll be happy with the floor esp. for the price. btw- my kitchen is very old like your LR (wavy, not so hot subfloor) just make sure any pits, deep dips, pieces that stick up etc. are corrected because it will show through the floor. I did quite abit of sanding, pit-filling and can't remember what all else but I know I spent a few days trying to improve the subfloor, it was well worth it! Also make sure it is very clean as you lay the floor. I'm not well versed on what you can put over a subfloor to make it perfectly smooth but I suppose that's something a person could look into if they're worried about it. As far as it not being level- no problem there. That's why I picked this flooring.


----------



## rusty baker

Before you blame all the failures on DIYers. There have been many pro installers who have had failures with this product. The company admitted that there was bad adhesive on some of their products. But it took a long time for them to admit it. Many times the product would fail even when the instructions were followed to the letter. This is not a great product. I hope you are one of the lucky ones and it holds up for you.


----------



## macpete

*Allure Plank*

I'm thinking of using this product (glued tabs) in my kitchen and was wondering how it's holding up with the refrigerator on top of it. This is the one and only item that will "pin it down" in that spot. The kitchen is on a concert slab with vinal already in place, I plan to just lay the Allure over that (the current vinal is glued to floor and floor is nice and flat.

Also, since this is a floating floor, are there any problems with mold growth under the floor and strange smells (as its made in China).

I really like the product and think it would work out better in the kitchen under the refrigerator than the Allura ULTRA (snap and lock) .

I know this is a Allure thread but has anyone used the Armstrong Luxe plank, same concept as the Allure Plank, I looked at this a Lowe's and it seems that the "tab" which has the glue is much thinner which is not necessarily bad as the Allure tab is thicker but its somewhat soft and can tear. The Armstrong is more expensive and comes in several grades good, better and best (4.99sq for the best). Don't know if its made in China or if it uses virgin vinyl (don't know if Allure uses virgin vinyl). 

So if anyone knows anything about the Armstrong product I'd love to hear about it.




Thanks,
Mac


----------



## annie68164

macpete said:


> I'm thinking of using this product (glued tabs) in my kitchen and was wondering how it's holding up with the refrigerator on top of it. This is the one and only item that will "pin it down" in that spot. The kitchen is on a concert slab with vinal already in place, I plan to just lay the Allure over that (the current vinal is glued to floor and floor is nice and flat.
> 
> Also, since this is a floating floor, are there any problems with mold growth under the floor and strange smells (as its made in China).
> 
> I really like the product and think it would work out better in the kitchen under the refrigerator than the Allura ULTRA (snap and lock) .
> 
> I know this is a Allure thread but has anyone used the Armstrong Luxe plank, same concept as the Allure Plank, I looked at this a Lowe's and it seems that the "tab" which has the glue is much thinner which is not necessarily bad as the Allure tab is thicker but its somewhat soft and can tear. The Armstrong is more expensive and comes in several grades good, better and best (4.99sq for the best). Don't know if its made in China or if it uses virgin vinyl (don't know if Allure uses virgin vinyl).
> 
> So if anyone knows anything about the Armstrong product I'd love to hear about it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Mac


 
We've had Trafficmaster Allure in our kitchen for about 4 years, no problems around the fridge. Its not over concrete just regular plywood subfloor. I always tell people read all of the directions and tips that come with the flooring. Its esp. important to have it 1/8" from the walls or it will buckle up. You may want to read more on this post because its seems people laying this over concrete are having problems. May want to spend some time finding those people on here and finding out more. Good Luck!


----------



## macpete

Does anyone know if the TrafficMaster Allure Plank flooring (glue tab) carry the “FloorScore Certification” seal. This means that they meet or exceed low emission levels of specific volatile organic compounds (VOCs) for better indoor air quality.

I'm still doing some research and I see that the Armstromg vinyl product carry that. (no I'm not pushing Armstrong, in fact lot of bad reviews with it scratching a lot).

I really like the Allure Plank vinal flooring system but I want to make sure I'm not breathing toxic fumes all day coming from my kitchen floor.


Thanks,
Mac


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## mitchellwu

*Allure Planking is Great!*

Just installed it to replace living room carpet damaged by water.

The living room that had an exterior door leading outside and tracking rain water and dirt was always a problem. Also, with dogs and their occasional "mishaps", water resistance vinyl seemed the logical choice, especially since the carpet was 20+ years old.

I chose the "Blonde Maple" style from Home Depot and it looks really good and was not too dark. I wanted to open the room up with light and a dark color (although rich looking) would have made the room look smaller.

I looked at another house brand manufacturer at Lowe's but thought the Allure product was a little more durable and the adhesive sections were more substantial.

I experienced some lifting in certain areas and went to the internet to find out if others were experiencing the same problem and some were; however, the negative comments were from full time whiners and complainers who advised everyone to sue the company and start class action lawsuits (they must have been Democrats!)

Allure customer service "express" delivered two FREE small bottles of Allure Adhesive with instructions. Later, I misplaced the instructions and called customer service and the person walked me through the process that weren't specifically written in the instruction sent out with the adhesive. 

I followed her instructions and it worked great because I haven't seen
any more lifting.

There is a strong chemical smell as the new vinyl was "outgassing" but after a few weeks, that smell disappeared. (Impatient internet complainers and whiners talked about complaining to Allure, getting factory reps to visit them, getting Home Depot reps out, asking for refunds, ripping it all out, and then filling the internet with negative complaints. Doesn't anyone take responsibility for their choices anymore?)

Subsequently, I ran across customers at Home Depot who bragged about putting it in their rental properties to cut down on maintenance and upkeep and how it was a great product.

Advise getting the end seams tight. My first 4-5 feet of depth was "practice" because I noticed two separation gaps at the end joints of two rows. It was real obvious to me after I moved further into the room, so I can't see how I could have made the obvious errors. I was probably stressed about doing it the first time and making mistakes that I didn't see everything I needed to be doing until it was laid down and too late to adjust.

Advice .... keep the seems tight and inspect the side and end joints after each piece is installed. I got smarter as I got more experienced placing the planks.

Also, keep any dirt and debris off the adhesive sections so they won't lift up later because of poor contact. They will lay and hold when you first install them, but my lift later because the contact wasn't sufficient.

If you see lifting later, simple call Allure and get the special adhesive they offer. 

Mitchell :whistling2:


----------



## fdf

There are tons of replies here, but thought I'd throw in my two cents...we installed the Allure floor in our kitchen 3 yrs ago...it's held up great!!
No problems with any of it trying to come free of the floor, it's solid as a rock.
Easy to care for...damp mop and use the Allure floor cleaner& finish all in one...I love this floor for ease of care and the number one thing...it stands up to heavy traffic...we are on a farm, much mud gets tracked in, and we have two big dogs and they have run across this floor, made tight turns, chasing toys they will skid across the floor with nials like a Grizzly Bear...not a mark on the floor...
love it!!:thumbsup:


----------



## mel8700

We decided to start with a hallway to see how it would do.. we installed it over subfloor
Hubby installed it on a Monday ... It looks great !!
then on Tuesday... we found this ... Bummer !! 
Not sure the best way to fix it either.


----------



## Big-Foot

Just curious if you rolled the floor with a heavy roller?

Is this a basement floor?

Regards - Randy


----------



## retired guy 60

Mel8700
One solution, actually the simplist is to simply cut a small strip off the end of one piece (looks like 1/4 inch approx.) and glue it into the space. I would not take the floor apart even though I read that a misaligned piece can be lifted and then put down again. 
Do you know how this happenned? Installation error?


----------



## fdf

Bummer...me thinks you guys made some sort of error when you put it down...is that a space or did it lift up...kinda hard to tell in the photo. The Allure we laid down is the kind that looks like slate tiles, it's in the kitchen...like I said, so far it's great.
Maybe the tiles are different than the wood look flooring...they did come in 3' pieces that snapped together with the sticky edges. We didn't roll anything heavy on it after we laid it down...

Hope you find a solution to this...keep us posted and good luck.


----------



## mel8700

Big-Foot said:


> Just curious if you rolled the floor with a heavy roller?
> 
> Is this a basement floor?
> 
> Regards - Randy


No we didn't use a roller.. its likely a installation error... although...it the seam wasn't visible on Monday after install.. it wasn't until Tuesday that i saw it .

Its a very small separation... the pic actually made it look larger that what it actually is .. so i will likely either patch it with colored caulk or shave a slither of another piece and try to glue it .


----------



## rusty baker

mel8700 said:


> No we didn't use a roller.. its likely a installation error... although...it the seam wasn't visible on Monday after install.. it wasn't until Tuesday that i saw it .
> 
> Its a very small separation... the pic actually made it look larger that what it actually is .. so i will likely either patch it with colored caulk or shave a slither of another piece and try to glue it .


 You are supposed to roll it. You probably will have more problems. I know the warranty is voided since you didn't roll it.


----------



## mel8700

rusty baker said:


> You are supposed to roll it. You probably will have more problems. I know the warranty is voided since you didn't roll it.


How do you figure that ?.. I have a copy of the owners manual. it does not list a roller needed under the tools list .


----------



## fdf

There was nothing about rolling the floor in the instructions when we laid our Allure flooring...which is one of the reasons why so many folks use this flooring...it's easy to install and you don't need to roll it.


----------



## diy1618

Anybody installed this on stairs? Any suggestion on what is the best choice for stairs which saves the cost on the long run?


----------



## fdf

I'm not sure about using this on stairs because you have that sticky edge to line up om each piece...I'd think with cutting them to fit a step, you'd loose that ability of the pieces to stay put...but, who knows?
You might try getting on the Allure flooring web site and if they don't have the info there, get in touch with customer service...or call Home Depot.


----------



## retired guy 60

It is my understanding that Allure is meant to be a floating floor. As such it is not suited as a stair covering. Could it be successfully glued to a stair tread? Possibly, but it would definitely not be my first choice.


----------



## rusty baker

fdf said:


> There was nothing about rolling the floor in the instructions when we laid our Allure flooring...which is one of the reasons why so many folks use this flooring...it's easy to install and you don't need to roll it.


From the installation instructions

"Rolling is recommended, when the installation is complete."


----------



## fdf

As for rolling the flooring...maybe the slate floor is different than the wood look flooring...again, we didn't roll it, been nearly 2 yrs and no problens with it.

Barbara472...I said in my posts...we have 2 big dogs, in fact for the first year with this flooring, we had 3 big dogs, live on a farm, and th dogs tear through the kitchen a lot...so far, no a scratch!!


----------



## rusty baker

fdf said:


> As for rolling the flooring...maybe the slate floor is different than the wood look flooring...again, we didn't roll it, been nearly 2 yrs and no problens with it.
> 
> Barbara472...I said in my posts...we have 2 big dogs, in fact for the first year with this flooring, we had 3 big dogs, live on a farm, and th dogs tear through the kitchen a lot...so far, no a scratch!!


Just saying, if you don't roll it and have proof that you did, there is no warranty. Been thru that with a friend. And I didn't install it, I loaned him my roller.


----------



## fdf

Well, guess we're screwed then ....by time our floor gets worn or starts to come up, which I serioulsy don't think it will...a new floor will be in order!!


----------



## rusty baker

After 2 years you should be OK. But not everyone will be that lucky. They should understand that it should be rolled, the manufacturer says to roll it.


----------



## fdf

rusty baker said:


> After 2 years you should be OK. But not everyone will be that lucky. They should understand that it should be rolled, the manufacturer says to roll it.


 
 Lucky...guess so, then!!

Roll that floor dudes & dudetts :thumbsup:


----------



## gwill

*Mold*

Just stumbled onto this thread. Installing a laminate on a concrete basement subfloor. Laminate has padding attached, so will be laying a thin sheet of moisture protection. No moisture issues in the basement, but I'm worried about mold between the floor and sheet. What are the options? Some sort of anti-mold application on the floor?

I don't imagine we'll have a problem, but reading this thread has made me paranoid. Rusty, any thoughts?


----------



## srcgrace

*Allure Ultra Personal Experience with product in your home*

I have a HD flooring estimate for the Trafficmaster Allure Ultra product for my home. HD has a whole house installation price that has prompted me to bite the bullet and have it installed. I would love to hear from those of you who have had this product installed in your home for at least several months and whether or not you are satisfied with the way the product is holding up to day to day use. Thanks


----------



## rusty baker

Make them give you a real price. That whole house price doesn't include all the extras.


----------



## srcgrace

rusty baker said:


> Make them give you a real price. That whole house price doesn't include all the extras.


 I am aware of that. I have a written quote and that isn't the issue. My interest is in the durability of the flooring itself. Thanks


----------



## fdf

I have had the Trafficmaster Allure flooring in my kitchen now for nearly 2 years...it's the flooring that looks like slate tile with a texture...we live on a farm and have 2 big dogs...lots of traffic & dirt...it's held up well...no scratches, it's not peeling up anywhere...I'm very happy with it.
Be sure to use only the cleaning product made for this flooring that HD sells, you can also order it from the web iste...don't ever use anything else, except a damp mop with water...

I am getting new flooring from HD on Oct. 11th...Faux Flooring, Pearwood Bruna...HD is coming to install it...got a good quote on the install, including the so called extras.
I'll post after it's installed about how it goes.


----------



## TomServo

*Allure on basement floor that slopes toward floor drain?*

I have about 400 square feet of area in my basement media room/laundry room that I would like to cover with some kind of new flooring.

The entire floor slopes towards a floor drain in the laundry area. The most dramatic slope is about 2" per 4', which occurs closest to the drain. Other areas are closer to 1" per 4'. I am certainly not going to level this floor, as I would have to pour an insane amount of leveler.

Any idea whether Allure (or similar vinyl plank flooring) would work in this situation? If so, are there any techniques for keeping the planks square with the walls and the other planks in areas with a significant slope?

The existing floor is square vinyl tile. I'm not sure if that tells us whether a longer plank can work, though.


----------



## fdf

I have no idea if the Allure tiles would work in your situation...that's a pretty good slope, and my thoughts would be that in times, with having to bend the tiles to conform to the slope, they might not hold very well.

Someone here will give you a better answer.


----------



## retired guy 60

Allure and similar plank flooring does not require the floor to be level but it does require the floor to be flat. Your description leads me to believe that the floor is not flat. I agree with fdf that you may have to bend the planks and if this is the case your best bet is to call the manufacturer to see if they will warrant such an installation. I am guessing they will not. 
Have you considered an epoxy coating instead of planks? It might not look as great but it would work better than Allure where the surface is not flat.


----------



## mopardude

well this post is all very scary to us...we just purchased 27 bx of the original allure glue type product for a basment project...we opted to spend the extra money and install the dri core subfloor system..so we have a nice dry, flat , level surface to have HD install the allure onto.....god I home we dont have the smell and lifting problems so many have listed on this post....wow ONe reason Im having them install it....then its there baby.


----------



## fdf

My Allure floor is in the kitchen...but I never, not once, had any smell from it...I'd bet you'll be Ok with that...good luck and enjoy your new floor...mine's been down 2 years, big dogs running across it, you can hear their nails, but not one scratch.


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## mopardude

Is yours the glue type right? did u install or sdid they?....thanks for the encourgement! lol I know u can read bad things about anything or anybody on the interenet...but there are alot of folks clammering about this product...lol


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## fdf

I beleive so...the glue is already on the tiles and the tiles have edges...I didn't have HD install, we were going to do it ourselves, but at the last minute something came up so we had a local flooring guy install it...
we also just got new flooring for our living room/great room...HD installers did the work...HD farms out installations, the installers are independents that 'work' with HD...the guys that installed this new flooring were outstanding, which is much more than I can say about the process of getting the flooring through HD...

you'll be fine.


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## RWCustom

Hmm, an interesting thing that I noticed while browsing through some of these posts is that nobody has even mentioned one of the most important things you must do when installing this type of flooring. Konecto, for example, states that you must roll the entire floor with a 100+ lb. roller. I haven't heard of any of this type of flooring that doesn't require that. The reason for this is to force the glue tabs together with smooth, even, heavy pressure to maximize adhesion and warranty against edge peaking/lifting and other similar issues. It kind of makes me wonder if the people who had seam/adhesion problems ever properly rolled their flooring just after installation. There is a very good reason as to why the pioneers of this type of flooring added this required step to their installation instructions.


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## rusty baker

RWCustom said:


> Hmm, an interesting thing that I noticed while browsing through some of these posts is that nobody has even mentioned one of the most important things you must do when installing this type of flooring. Konecto, for example, states that you must roll the entire floor with a 100+ lb. roller. I haven't heard of any of this type of flooring that doesn't require that. The reason for this is to force the glue tabs together with smooth, even, heavy pressure to maximize adhesion and warranty against edge peaking/lifting and other similar issues. It kind of makes me wonder if the people who had seam/adhesion problems ever properly rolled their flooring just after installation. There is a very good reason as to why the pioneers of this type of flooring added this required step to their installation instructions.


 If you back a ways, you will see where rolling was pointed out as required. Many DIYers just don't follow directions.


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## fdf

All I know is my floor was put down by a local pro and after 2 years it's still perfect.


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## SRcook

I'm planning on putting this down in a couple of bathrooms that have vinyl( I think) linoleum type floors now. I am also considering tearing up the old floor and working off the concrete underneath. I suspect i have a mold problem as the stuff that's down there is showing black through lots of areas now. My question is: should the edges be glued down at the walls, or are the planks supposed to float free? Someone mentioned expansion in one comment, so I assume no glue. One edge is going to butt up against a tub, so there will be water hitting it from time to time. Any answers out there?


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## Big-Foot

You should be able to tie down one side of the floor by caulking it to the tub as that would give it the other three directions to expand in. However, I would think that if it were tied down anywhere it would be at the stool.

You might have old asphalt based mastic that is leeching up. That stuff is black like tar. Take a little mineral spirits on a rag and just lightly rub it. If it smears, you are dealing with mastic. If it wipes right up, it may be mold or something else. 
Frankly - if you can, I would leave the old flooring underneath the Allure as a moisture barrier since you are talking about a basement.


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## Big-Foot

Update on my installation...

I had a professional floor guy lay mine down since my back and knees are now shot. He hand rolled each plank as he was laying it and when he was done he went over the floor 4 times in two directions. The materials had been in the house in the rooms that they were to be installed for four weeks. (Properly brought to temperature)
The temps outside were in the fifties with relative humidity around 40%
The temps in the house were steady at 68f.

This was on the main floor living room and kitchen.

Looks beautiful. Smells fine (very light vinyl smell). Went down nicely with no issues.




























The next day was sunny with temps in the 60's outside. Inside it rose to 70.

Then they started to appear. Pops in the seams. Usually close to ends of the planks. I called the flooring installer who came over immediately. He used my heat gun to warm the seams and re-rolled them. Of the 30 or so pops over the ~450 sq feet we installed, about half of them stayed down for more than 24 hours. The rest re-popped the next day along with some new ones. I bought two large Gorilla Glue brand Super-Glue (yes cyanoacrylate) and glued down the pops as they came up and hand rolled the planks. I chased the pops (roughly 100 in total) for the next two weeks on a daily basis. Once glued down, the pops did not re-appear. I put a green tape tab by each one so I could track them. After two weeks of this, there were no more issues and the floor remains beautiful.

A word about the subfloor. The floor was almost 100 year old maple hard wood which was not in the best of shape. Cupping in places and not very even, but within the tolerances that trafficmaster had advised in their documentation and via telephone call to the parent company for support. The kitchen was over a poured vinyl flooring which was poured (and well adhered) to 1" thick MDF which was laid over 3/4" pine / fir.. The kitchen floor had a slight peak in the center (1/4" over 12').

Would I used Allure again? Yes. For the money it is the absolute best bang for the buck...

But
I would only. Use it again if I was able to get the floor much more flat. In retrospect, I should have sanded the maple floor down - however - I was out of time and money and needed to get this house on the market.

There's my review. I hope it helps someone out there....


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## almosthandyman

I have installed the Allure that looks like tile in my kitchen and breakfast room. Really wanted to go with sheet vinyl, but could not find the right color. The Allure was the perfect color. So install it I did. I like the finished product. It is not perfect, and I would deem it almost impossible to install without seeing a little black line at some of the seams. The problem in my rooms were where I had to "back up" during the install. You need to start from the "bottom right" looking at your room from above. You add tiles to the left and then above, and move right along. I had a couple of areas that I need to add to the right (doorway from garage) and backwards (pantry), which are difficult. Just not a good way to do it. Before you start, you will of course have to remove the 1/4 round or shoe molding so that you can cover the end of the planks.

All in all it is a positive experience so far. It's been in for about 7 months. Still looks good. I did have a handfull of corners that wanted to pop up. Fixed some with heat and pressure (chair leg). That did not work for others. I fixed the rest with superglue. You can tape off the corner of the "pop up", and the the "L" the 2 pieces make where the pop is up. That way you keep the glue off of the top of all the tiles. Put in a little super glue, push down the pop, and wipe off any glue on the tape. Add a little weight to keep the corner down. Once the glue dries, you can pull off the tape and you are good to go. The ones I have done this way have held tight.

You must work to install this stuff VERY STRAIGHT to keep black lines to a minimum. I staggered the strips one one-foot tile each time.

Now I am looking to clean off a scuff, and cannot get a good read in whether or not the Allure One Step product is good to use or not. Anyone have any input on that? Thanks!


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## cruznin55chev

iI have the same problem i called them told them it was 2 yrs old and they said to send pics now i am waiting for callback


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## SirJohn

I was thinking about installing this on above grade concrete slab in my kitchen with laundry closet. I know moisture has been an issue with peeling in basements, but in this case the concrete is above grade and I will be installing over existing sheet vinyl which should serve as a moisture barrier of sorts. Anyone have experience with this type of installation. Not comfortable with laying tile myself and too much chance of water problems with laminate so this seems to be one of my only options other than having another sheet of vinyl laid, which I don't care for the look of.


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## oh'mike

Welcome Sir John---I suggest you start a new thread in flooring---we have some pro installers and a bunch of experienced homeowners that have experience with that product---

Long older threads like this tend to be ignored ---Mike----


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## Allure_Guy

*Installing Allure TrafficMaster on Concrete*



rusty baker said:


> The majority of failures seem to be on concrete, whether DIY or Pro installed. Not sure why. Could be that concrete is usually colder or that most concrete sweats, so it could be moisture or a combination of the two.


Hi Rusty-

Yes, there are issues that can occur when installing on concrete (especially basements). All subfloors must be carefully checked for moisture, as *Allure ULTRA* is *waterproof* but not a _waterproofer_. So any moisture problems need to be adressed prior to installation. We recommend 6 mil poly moisture vapor barrier, TrafficMaster Basement Proofer (available by special order only) or RedGard®. 

When installing Allure flooring in a basement, you must use a basement proofer or a 6 mil poly moisture barrier. If you are using a Tramex Moisture Meter and the level is 0%-2%, no moisture barrier is required. But if it is 2%-5%, a moisture barrier is required. Anything over 5% and we do not recommend installing Allure flooring. Also, new concrete floors need to cure for a minimum of 60 days. 



Hope that helps!

~Aaron
Allure Customer Outreach Team


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## oh'mike

Thank you for the info---nice to have the manufacturer drop in!


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## rusty baker

Allure_Guy said:


> Also, new concrete floors need to cure for a minimum of 60 days.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps!
> 
> ~Aaron
> Allure Customer Outreach Team


 It's always been accepted practice that it takes about 128 days for a 4" slab to cure.


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## JetSwet

rusty baker said:


> It's always been accepted practice that it takes about 128 days for a 4" slab to cure.


I don't know?.... Yahoo answers states 30-60 days..... Lmao lol


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## rusty baker

I was wrong, but so is Yahoo. Minimum standard is 28 days per inch or 112 days for a 4" slab. Then test.


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## JetSwet

rusty baker said:


> I was wrong, but so is Yahoo. Minimum standard is 28 days per inch or 112 days for a 4" slab. Then test.


I was joking Rusty. I'm also sure most don't fallow the 28 day per inch hence why so many issues in future.


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## Allure_Guy

*Allure minimum curing period for newly poured concrete*



rusty baker said:


> It's always been accepted practice that it takes about 128 days for a 4" slab to cure.


Thanks for the comment, Rusty! After reviewing the installation manual again, I need to clarify something. 60 days, which I stated in a previous post, was the minimum curing period that Halstead recommended for newly poured concrete, as found in the version of the Allure ULTRA owners/installation manual I have on hand. But, I'm going to double-check to see if this is still the recommended minimum curing period...my version of the manual may be outdated.

According to the most recent Allure Gripstrip owners/installation manual (different product thank Allure ULTRA), newly poured concrete floors must cure for a *minimum of 90 days*. Here is some more information, word for word from that manual related to concrete subfloors:

"*CONCRETE: *

Any large cracks or voids must be filled with a cementitious patching/leveling compound. (over 1/8" x 1/8") *

PLEASE NOTE: *allure is water resistant and will withstand holding water for short periods of time if the product is installed properly. allure is not flood proof! allure is not meant as water proofing material nor a solution for moisture. 

Moisture intrusion is a totally different situation that can arise with new and old concrete that exhibits very high levels of hydrostatic pressure in combination with very high levels of alkalinity. This combination provides a substance that is highly corrosive. No floor covering including allure can withstand the long term corrosive nature of this chemical. Hydrostatic pressure exceeding 8 lbs using the calcium chloride test method and/or a P.H test indicates alkalinity levels in excess of 9, steps must be taken to separate allure from the source of the corrosive effect of this chemical.

Excessive moisture in the subfloor can cause mold and mildew and other moisture related issues including, but not limited to, trapping of the moisture emissions under allure. Under these circumstances the concrete needs to be treated with a floor sealer that seals the concrete under the 8 lbs. or a moisture/vapor barrier (6 mil poly) is installed. This is necessary to avoid the corrosive effects. Newly poured concrete floors must cure for a minimum of 90 days. 

*It is the responsibility of the home owner and the installer to make sure that any moisture or alkalinity issues are resolved prior to installing allure."*

Also wanted to add that Halstead (the manufacturer) has published more Allure support and installation information which is available at their online support center: http://www.mydiygenius.com/articles/

Hope that helps!

~Aaron
Allure Customer Outreach Team


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## oh'mike

Welcome back---It's refreshing to have a company speak up and help---Mike----


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## Allure_Guy

*Official: Newly poured concrete minimum curing period*

Thanks, Mike! Glad to help!

An update on Halstead's (manufacturer of allure) policy for installing allure flooring on newly poured concrete- the installation manual I had on hand when I made the first comment above was in fact outdated. 90 days (not 60 days) is the minimum curing period that Halstead recommends for newly poured concrete for their allure flooring products. I apologize for any confusion.

*Bottom line:* Be sure your newly poured concrete is properly cured before installing allure flooring. 

~Aaron
Allure Customer Outreach Team
http://www.mydiygenius.com 
_(Allure Flooring Online Education & Support Center)_


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## rusty baker

Allure_Guy said:


> Thanks, Mike! Glad to help!
> 
> An update on Halstead's (manufacturer of allure) policy for installing allure flooring on newly poured concrete- the installation manual I had on hand when I made the first comment above was in fact outdated. 90 days (not 60 days) is the minimum curing period that Halstead recommends for newly poured concrete for their allure flooring products. I apologize for any confusion.
> 
> *Bottom line:* Be sure your newly poured concrete is properly cured before installing allure flooring.
> 
> ~Aaron
> Allure Customer Outreach Team
> http://www.mydiygenius.com
> _(Allure Flooring Online Education & Support Center)_


I would still recommend moisture testing the concrete after 90 days. Many things can affect the drying rate. The accepted minimum drying time for a 4" slab is 112 days and then moisture test.
( I grew up pouring concrete with my father before starting flooring installations in 1973.)


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## thundercracker

Here's my 2 bits on allure trafficmaster - I installed the product in 2 of my bathrooms, used about 6 boxes total for the 2 bathrooms, so my bathrooms are about 10x6 or so. I was lazy and just laid the trafficmaster over the existing tile. (yes, sorry to those real DIY'ers who this would offend). the trafficmaster stuck perfectly, and never popped in the 2 yrs that i lived with the floors. (recently sold the house). So in the bathroom, with 2 toddler girls, the floor was great. a bit warmer in the winter than the tile and gave the bathroom a somewhat updated look. never had issues with the popping. my worst issue was figuring out how to transition the floor at the ends, to make it look finished. 

My sister used trafficmaster in her basement. I didnt see how the guy installed it, but i think it was either directly onto the concrete floor? her basement is about 25x15' so it was a much larger install and after 6 months, some of the seams started coming up. 

so i'm guessing the larger applications would probably need some more maintenance and glueing post install. my small bathroom which i didnt really roll with anything after install, went down fine, no popping seams.


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## RjinPA

Many had problems with trafficmaster in basements as it traps moisture under it causing mold problems.

I have to get rid of my trafficmaster after 2 weeks on condo floor because it's buckeling and causing tripping problems. Stay away


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## jadeish1

Rehabber said:


> I have now done 3 installs of Allure. It is a relatively simple install. and looks nice when finished. My customers each chose it, and had me install. They are all pleased with the results. I believe it to be well within the average DIYer's ability to install. They will need a tap weasure, razorknife, speed square and straightedge and go for it.:yes:


I am going to lay some can it be laid on a hard commercial carpet


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## rusty baker

jadeish1 said:


> i am going to lay some can it be laid on a hard commercial carpet


no...........


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## BB Gun

FYI - 5 years after installing it in my kitchen/dining room, I still love it. A couple seams have "separated" in that you can see a thin black line between tiles, but only a couple, and nothing is popping up.

Still looks 95% as good as the day I installed it.

BB


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## KinNorth

Any thoughts on the issue raised by 60 Min utes last night and by 16X9 last year? 
One thing I sure noticed was the smell of the Allure was very strong and fairly persistent. What goes into the coatings on these floor products and how do they differ from the laminated hardwood.

October 4, 2014 6:15 pm
16×9: An investigation into illegal lumber
By Staff	16x9
http://globalnews.ca/news/1598958/16x9-an-investigation-into-illegal-lumber/

October 2, 2014 8:40 am Updated: October 3, 2014 6:42 am
High levels of formaldehyde found in Chinese-made floors sold in North America
Gil Shochat, 16x9

http://globalnews.ca/news/1594273/h...in-chinese-made-floors-sold-in-north-america/


Lumber Liquidators linked to health and safety violations
60 Minutes found that Lumber Liquidators' Chinese-made laminate flooring contains amounts of toxic formaldehyde that may not meet health and safety standards
Mar 1, 2015

excerpt"
"Drury and Larson bought more than 150 boxes of laminate flooring at stores around California and sent them to three certified labs for a series of tests. The results? While laminate flooring from Home Depot and Lowes had acceptable levels of formaldehyde, as did Lumber Liquidators American-made laminates, every single sample of Chinese-made laminate flooring from Lumber Liquidators failed to meet California formaldehyde emissions standards. Many by a large margin.

Richard Drury: The average level in Lumber Liquidators products that we found was over six to seven times above the state standard for formaldehyde. And we found some that were close to 20 times above the level that's allowed to be sold.

Anderson Cooper: That sounds like a huge amount.

Denny Larson: It's..."

http://www.cbsnews.com/news/lumber-liquidators-linked-to-health-and-safety-violations/



I'm back. In the 60 Minutes video they say its in the glues and not the coatings.


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## gone 4 the Wint

*osky*



zel said:


> I am considering this floor as a cheap alternative to wood/laminate, over my concrete basement floor.
> 
> For anyone unfamiliar with this floor, it is a floating vynil floor that comes in planks similar to laminate. On one short and one long side of each plank, there is a piece of vynil sticking out roughly 1" with adhesive on it. The install is similar to a T-n-G type floor in that the pieces have to go in the correct direction. Every piece you install adheres to the previous pieces on 2 edges.
> 
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed this and what has been your experience with it? Also, how has it held up over time? Do the seems separate?
> 
> After about 2 years, we have experienced some of the seams with no traffic have lifted and I do not know how to press them down again. A little roller seems to no avail. bobk


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## rusty baker

Go back and read some of the other posts. A lot of similar complaints. If you can get the edge clean enough, sometimes super glue will fix the seams.


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## terkell2123

*Allure not for use in non climate controlled spaces*

After being reassured by several Home Depot employees that the Allure product was suitable for an unheated cottage I made my special order! Upon reading the box for installation instructions and talking direct to Allure I found out that the warranty is void if installed in a space that does not have HVAC.


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## Firewalker

everylastbreath said:


> This post is addressed to the people who had NO PROBLEMS installing this flooring. We have roughly 550sq to install and my poor husband has taken the floor appart & restarted it 3 times trying to get it to stay together! as for the "Easiest Installation Ever" I say BS! My husband has built rooms in quicker time, at this rate this floor might take until the 4th of July to finish!
> 
> Please tell me, people who have had no problems installing, what's the trick?


I know this is an old post but we have been laying this flooring for a week or so and it might help others who want to install it. I have found it to be much easier to score the back and snap it. I do not score it more than once unless I get off track. 

I use a drywall t square and have a board 3/4 MDF I cut on to keep knife off floor and to let the square rest on the edge. 

Buy many blades and change them out a LOT. You aren't doing yourself any favors trying to milk a blade a couple more cuts. 

I did buy an oscillating saw to undercut the casings and it is the most versatile saw I have bought in a while. Very accurate and fast. 

It gets into some very right places. There is a trick for getting your end cut. Orient it correctly flip it over long ways. Lay it to where it is touching the wall and look to where it would meet the previously installed piece. Cut or mark it 1/8" from that spot. Cut the back. (1 score is plenty using a good square) Flip again and install. You will have the needed space for expansion. It moves very fast unless you are going around doors or laying it backwards. I started in the bedroom and then down the hall. The kitchen and utility room will have to be put in backwards which is a bit mor challenging but not much. Good luck!

Scott


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