# Stud Position? Under Floor Joists?



## Marvel (Sep 22, 2011)

According to our codes (considerable snow loads) provided that you have a double top plate at the top of the first floor walls it is not necessary to line up the joists with the stud spacing. This is not the case with posts supporting beams which must have support directly below.
cheers


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

Without a diagram to go by, I assume this is an addition to one end of the house. I would have pulled 15 1/4"(set ahead) from the opposite end and work toward the house.
Also assuming the ceiling joists will span the whole distance, marked the top plates accordingly before standing those walls. Moot point now since the walls are already up. Does code say joists must be stacked?
How'd one wall get 6 inches off?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Part of the addition is 18' deep....then it kicks in to 15'. The upstairs stays the full 18'....part of the reason is that I had a limit on the ground floor due to the distance to the detached garage....have to maintain that backup area....


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## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

If you want the joists and the studs to form an straight continuous load path, it sounds like you'll have to add extra 2x6 studs under the second floor joists. Leave the existing studs where they are so that you will have something to nail the sheathing to without having to cut the sheathing. 

Yes, this will cost you extra in material and time but this sounds like the only way to get the joists and studs to match without tearing things down and starting over. 

Personally, I don't think what you have now is a big problem but I don't have much framing experience on a two story home. Also, having the joists matched with the studs may be good framing practice but I don't remember reading anything in the IBC about it.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

As long as you have 2 top plates your fine. Stud joist alignment is primarily for running the mechanicals. Leaving maximum continuous space. You may have to move a few if you need to run HVAC through the wall.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

sixeighten is right, 2 top plates, then no need to stack joists right on studs.

I think the 1 1/8 T&G is over-kill but hey, it's your money not mine. 

Andy.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

AndyGump said:


> sixeighten is right, 2 top plates, then no need to stack joists right on studs.
> 
> *I think the 1 1/8 T&G is over-kill* but hey, it's your money not mine.
> 
> Andy.


I had that discussion with the architect.....he pointed out that since we plan to keep this house for a long time....and my OCD attention to detail (minus the mistakes), the first time I heard a squeek, he knows I would be wanting to yank out ceiling drywall to fix it....(he is right)

AND....when I did my garage, I used 3/4" T&G....even with floor joists 12" OC, it was not as stiff as I wanted....so I added another layer of 1/2" OSB....big difference.....

Hence, I don't mind the extra expense...which worked out to about $8/sheet more.


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## havalife (Mar 23, 2011)

I would not think that OCD has anyting to do with building exept you pay more. It sounds like you want to have a perfect world when building, that is not the real world. If you are questioning the waste or the placement when studs and sheeting are put in place then you may want to hire a person to do just that. If you are trying to run a job then do it, to me it sounds like you think you know more then a person that is drawing the job and the person building the job. IMO you lay out the 1st floor studs taking in the doors, windows, beams, post, stairs ect., into consideration . Then run the rim and layout the joists along with plumbing and hvac. This is just a basic run but I am sure you went beyond this and calculated the waste per 2x that was not used for fire blocking and backing.


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