# Farm Sink vs. Cabinet GAP!



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Find a piece of that white wood the same thickness as the doors and do a better job of cutting it out and overlay it.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... I thought that's what they make mouldin' for,......


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Now you know why the old saying "Measure Twice Cut Once" was written. I think it would look best if you took a piece of matching lumber and cut a formfitting piece to fit the sink and use it as an overlay.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Get a wide enough filler strip and make a new piece for the cutout area. Shouldn't be that difficult to get what's left of the piece you cut out. Should be pocket screws and maybe glue holding it in. Make a template out of thin cardboard or something next time. 
Mike Hawkins


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Just an observation. I would cut two stiles the same thickness as the doors and taper the length to match the taper of the sink and squareness of the outer edge of the cabinet, and apply them with glue and finish nails. It just seems the cabinet needs a relief balance at that point. Not underneath so much as just the stiles. Cut them square at the bottom of the sink.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Trim can work but may look out of place no matter what. First it won't match other cabinets. You won't match the finish. May clean differently. Depends on quality you want, but may have to bite the bullet and go get a new cabinet made for such a sink. If trim, first seal all cut edge with smear of silicon.


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

chandler48 said:


> Just an observation. I would cut two stiles the same thickness as the doors and taper the length to match the taper of the sink and squareness of the outer edge of the cabinet, and apply them with glue and finish nails. It just seems the cabinet needs a relief balance at that point. Not underneath so much as just the stiles. Cut them square at the bottom of the sink.


So basically like a false drawer appearance?


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

firehawkmph said:


> Get a wide enough filler strip and make a new piece for the cutout area. Shouldn't be that difficult to get what's left of the piece you cut out. Should be pocket screws and maybe glue holding it in. Make a template out of thin cardboard or something next time.
> Mike Hawkins


You mean just fill the gap with a triangle piece? I've thought about it to try it out first before adding trim to be honest. My only concern would be trying to seal the seams somehow. I don't think the sawdust trick would work here..


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I actually had a Paint rendition of artwork, but it didn't take. I would make trim boards cut the design of the semi triangle and attach them to the face, covering the booger.


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

chandler48 said:


> I actually had a Paint rendition of artwork, but it didn't take. I would make trim boards cut the design of the semi triangle and attach them to the face, covering the booger.


Makes total sense. Any clever way to template this? Maybe do it on a piece of cardboard first and see if it matches?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

You could use a carpenter's bevel square and set the black part on top of the cabinet and find the angle with the metal part, lock it down and duplicate it on a 1x4. Once you are sure of that angle, rip the opposite side off square and cut to length.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-T-Bevel-B75/100353824


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Safe to say the sink didn't come with a template? How about going to the manufacturers web side and see if they have a set of instruction available.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Regardless of what you do you are going to have to paint. Find the closest match you can. I would remove the sink, wrap the out side of the sink, where meets the cabinet wood, with masking tape (or duct tape). Put a strip of masking tape on the cabinet about 1/4" from your cut. Then coat the edges of the cabinet cut out with Bondo wood putty. Sit the sink back in place letting it shape the Bondo wood putty. 
Scrap off any excess squeeze out. Let the Bondo dry. Remove the sink and sand the Bondo flush with the cabinet surface. Remove the masking tape from the cabinet and paint. Since you will be painting a strip about 1/2" wide you should be able to make the paint blend in fairly well. A small bead of caulking after resetting the sink would help hide any difference in paint.


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

chandler48 said:


> You could use a carpenter's bevel square and set the black part on top of the cabinet and find the angle with the metal part, lock it down and duplicate it on a 1x4. Once you are sure of that angle, rip the opposite side off square and cut to length.
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-T-Bevel-B75/100353824


Genius. Thanks for the insight. Sometimes the simplest solutions are hard to see haha


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

Mike Milam said:


> Safe to say the sink didn't come with a template? How about going to the manufacturers web side and see if they have a set of instruction available.


Unfortunately no template! I should have known better but I was excited to get the sink in! Live and learn right? Checking for a template tonight from the manufacturer.


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

hkstroud said:


> Regardless of what you do you are going to have to paint. Find the closest match you can. I would remove the sink, wrap the out side of the sink, where meets the cabinet wood, with masking tape (or duct tape). Put a strip of masking tape on the cabinet about 1/4" from your cut. Then coat the edges of the cabinet cut out with Bondo wood putty. Sit the sink back in place letting it shape the Bondo wood putty.
> Scrap off any excess squeeze out. Let the Bondo dry. Remove the sink and sand the Bondo flush with the cabinet surface. Remove the masking tape from the cabinet and paint. Since you will be painting a strip about 1/2" wide you should be able to make the paint blend in fairly well. A small bead of caulking after resetting the sink would help hide any difference in paint.


This is an incredible idea. Have you done this before? Any photo examples you can find of a carpentry project this idea was used on?


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## rbiankowski (Apr 24, 2017)

hkstroud said:


> Regardless of what you do you are going to have to paint. Find the closest match you can. I would remove the sink, wrap the out side of the sink, where meets the cabinet wood, with masking tape (or duct tape). Put a strip of masking tape on the cabinet about 1/4" from your cut. Then coat the edges of the cabinet cut out with Bondo wood putty. Sit the sink back in place letting it shape the Bondo wood putty.
> Scrap off any excess squeeze out. Let the Bondo dry. Remove the sink and sand the Bondo flush with the cabinet surface. Remove the masking tape from the cabinet and paint. Since you will be painting a strip about 1/2" wide you should be able to make the paint blend in fairly well. A small bead of caulking after resetting the sink would help hide any difference in paint.


Additional question, I've noticed that a shim fits the gap perfectly. Would it make sense to set back the shim 1/4", glue it to the cabinet cut and then place bondo, sand and paint? There's still a tiny gap on all the edges except the bottom when using the shim so bondo could be used I think. Would this give it more of a finished look and provide a little more structure?


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

With a little imagination.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

> Have you done this before?


Well, not on a sink. I think I once did that on an airplane canopy.
Think about it. All your are doing is putting a soft pliable material in that will adhere to the wood. Then using the sink to shape it. The reason for the tape on the outside of the sink is to prevent the material from sticking to the sink.
While I said Bondo, any material that will adhere well to wood, is soft and pliable and later hardens will work. You could probably use J B Weld or some fiberglass resin. If you were to use the J B Weld, scrape of the excess with a putty knife and then smooth and clean up with paint thinner. 

When the filler material has dried the only thing holding the sink in place will be masking tape. You could even borrow your wife's plastic wrap and use that instead of the masking tape. When you go to remove the sink after things have dries, paint thinner will probably destroy the stickiness of the masking tape.
If you mask off the front of the cabinet as close the the cut line as possible you will have a minimum of paint that that doesn't exactly match the present paint.

I wouldn't mess with the shims.

Give it a try, you have nothing to loose.


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