# Flooded_drywall cutting questions_suggestions



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

Just like Stevie Ray sang, It's flooding down in Texas.
Son's big, new house took ~ 8 in. inside - 1st floor. May not be over yet.

I did a lot of drywall back in the day, but never cutting out for a flood in whole, large house.

1) As soon as stops raining, it'll be hot. Yes, can turn AC way down to * slow * mold growth, but I imagine he'll have to cut the wet rock himself. It'll be hard to find a contractor immediately (even though he has flood insur).

2) What's the rule of thumb about how high to cut the 1/2" sht rock above the wet point?
Someone (FEMA??/ flood insur.) told him cut it at 4 ft - "that'll make it easier."

Not sure about that. If only ~ 8" - 12" - 16" above floor got wet, I've seen lots of people cut it 6" to 12" *above* the wet. 
Whether they were doing it the best way, dunno.
For this big a job - house is ~ 2500 sf on 1st flr, what's the best / fastest tool & method?

3) Would pros use something "like" a Rotozip with a drywall bit on this?
Do they make carbide drywall bits, and for this use, are they worth the money? 

If not a Rotozip type tool, then suggestions welcomed - and type bit / blade? 
We have professional saber saws, but seems like a risk of cutting wires, pipes - depending. Unless cut off the blades so they cut only 1/2" deep?

Or, I have a dremel, which has "drywall" bits available; it may be a *little light weight* for this much cutting?? Never pushed it that hard to see. It might cut 1/2 drywall OK , but there's a lot of linear ft.

4) I figured to snap a chalk line & cut the old drywall maybe 6" above the highest wet point.

If that's close to an even mark (18" or 2ft wide), that makes measuring, rehanging a bit faster (though he won't be doing that).

Of course, he'll have big fans out all the doors & smaller fans in every room. He could run the AC at same time, so all wood drys faster. He'll spray all wood w/ either bleach mixture, a mildewicide I've seen restoration places mention, or a strong mix of Consan.

I don't know if the floor level Kit / Ba cabinets will be salvageable.
Maybe - if screws are accessible. He'll have to pull cabinets to remove drywall & insulation behind them.


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If its me, I cut up in 4' increments and remove everything. 

A rotozip run on a piece of freestanding 1x4 jig would work well for keeping your cuts consistent.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would cut it at 17" or 25" from the floor. the rotto zip will work. Lean a sheet of 1/4"plywood 17" 05" wide against the wall and follow that. Replace the drywall with 16" or 24".
Pressure wash the bear wood.


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

Thanks to all.
@ Windows on Wash - why cut 4', if only 8" got wet? If there's a good reason, I'm open to experts' experience. Is hanging a 16" or 2 ft strip *slower* than a full sheet - 4 ft? I'm just asking.

It only takes a few sec to cut a sheet lengthwise. But there's 2x? the screws in a 4x8 as a 2x8 - aren't there? Not to mention an 18" strip?

The jig / guide for the rotozip is good idea.

@ Nealtw - lets' see if I understand.


> Lean a sheet of 1/4"plywood 17" 05" wide against the wall and follow that.


Did you mean 17 & 1/2 inches? 

But that's 1.5 in. larger than a 16" drywall strip (you mentioned) - depending on what part of the Rotozip rests on the plywood? Are you running the outer edge of rotozip's base against the plywood?
Or does it have a small dia. collar, sliding on the plywood?
Even keeping drywall 1/2" off the slab for - guess I'm not following your numbers. Could you clarify - thanks.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Details, details, yes you would like to end up with 1/2 inch gap at the floor and easier to use 16 or 24" drywall so you have no waste.
The refuse will be different for you in this situation, up here we have to pay extra for dumping drywall and anything older than 1991, we have to bag it up and treat it like asbestos and pay thru the nose to get rid of it.
But I would just cut what ever could come out of a sheet easy like 8, 12, 16 or 24. You always end up taking a little more Than you first think you need to.
If you need a little more there are 54" sheets but availability might be tricky too.
But it will be some time before you get it dried out so the trucks should be rolling it in by then.


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Screw/nail a 1 x 4 at the desired height and use a rotozip. The Dremel won't have enough power to be effective for the whole project.
Make the cut height so that you minimize waste. A 4 ft board would ripped at 24 or 16 or 12 inch depending on the high water line. If 24 inch doesn't work out well, you can get 54 inch drywall board that would allow a couple of inches more and minimize waste.
Also consider that depth of cut. If possible, don't cut the vapour barrier if at all avoidable.
Hard to get a new vapour barrier onto the back of the existing one.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

This little stud finder it just a magnet and a pointer . it is great for finding screw so you can remove some to pull the drywall out a little to slip the vapour barrier up a little if they use barrier down there.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I like using the plywood sheet, no tape measure no level no screws no mistakes.


----------



## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

As others have said a rotozip will be the fastest tool. If you've got some extra hands hanging around an oscillating multitool can also be used...not as fast as a rotozip but it does work....cheapo multitool blades will work fine for drywall.


----------



## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

I think I would use a battery powered circular saw set to 1/2" depth of cut.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

hkstroud said:


> I think I would use a battery powered circular saw set to 1/2" depth of cut.


I have used the saw too. I nailed a board on the plywood to ride the saw on.


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

Question about a height jig for rotozip. Have the basic idea, but what part of the rotozip slides on the edge of a 1x4 or 2x4? So the blade isn't prone to tipping up / down? You don't "strap" it to the lumber, do you. Just keep the base flat against drywall & let the body (or base) rest on the cross piece of the jig?

Considering making the top board of the 4 sided "frame" (jig) adjustable w/ bolts & wing nuts. I'd be surprised if every room was wet to the same ht. 

OTOH, might be best to cut it all the same ht. Make it easier to fit the new drywall - though flood insur. will pay a contractor - so not as concerned about ease of installation. He just needs to get the wet stuff out ASAP & start fans all over.

@ Nealtw, maybe I misunderstood (nah!  ) 17.5" cut from the slab, but a 16" strip + 1/2" floor gap = 16.5". Leaves another 1" gap - somewhere?
@jlhaslip - the guide's a good idea, but I think making a sliding jig to keep height would be faster overall vs. moving guide strips repeatedly. On small job, that'd be fine. He's got a mini-mansion & me in a tar paper shack!

We don't know - yet - the final level. The storm's supposed to backup into the gulf & come again!!
To all: 54" drywall is good idea - if we need it (maybe a "real" lumberyard might carry - or order). Not common here.

Yes, I thought about a small circular saw, but I'm afraid the dust would be much worse than a rotozip or even oscillating tool. If it was an empty house, circular saw - either old, thin kerf blade or abrasive blade. But man, the dust.

finding screws before you hit them is another good tip.
We'd never be so lucky to cut at a height that was between screws. Do have a stud finder & fairly strong, small magnets.


----------



## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Circular saw won't make any more dust than rotozip, only do it faster.
Most battery powered saws have a very thin blade.
Yes there will be a pattern to the screw locations.

If you nail up the board as a guide you can run your saw with one hand and hold your shop vac with the other.

Try running saw with blade in backwards, probably make less dust in your face.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

tearitup said:


> Question about a height jig for rotozip. Have the basic idea, but what part of the rotozip slides on the edge of a 1x4 or 2x4? So the blade isn't prone to tipping up / down? You don't "strap" it to the lumber, do you. Just keep the base flat against drywall & let the body (or base) rest on the cross piece of the jig?
> 
> Considering making the top board of the 4 sided "frame" (jig) adjustable w/ bolts & wing nuts. I'd be surprised if every room was wet to the same ht.
> 
> ...


Hard to figure water being deeper in one room than the rest. No adjustment needed.

My son and I removed 24" from the bottom of an airplane hanger in something like 5 hours. He was using a full sized router with a 1/8 spiral bit.
They come with a left and right twist. We happen to have the ones that pushed the dust into the cut and made very little dust he just let the smooth part of the bit ride on the plywood. after we figured we could have figured a fence for the router to ride the wood better because he ended up with burn makes which left waves in the cut. but no big deal.
I nailed a 1x4 5 inches down from the top of the plywood so a regular skill say would ride against the 1x4 and cut just above the plywood. Lumps an bumps in the floor showed up in both cuts but not bad enough for anyone to complain. I made dust, wear a mask. 
I screwed up that measurement I should have said 16 1/2" cut out or 24 1/2 and replace it with 16 or 24, leaving about 1/2" gap at the floor.
I pulled some screws with thew saw and just kept cutting. it is just drywall.
My son broke 2 or 3 router bits. Looking for screws takes time and we had quoted two days so we were in the mood for making money.
Don't forget you need a wheel barrow on site. And flat nosed shovels.


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

If you can't get an adjuster out quickly document everything before you start ripping stuff out.

Considering the mess the water will leave behind I doubt the drywall dust will be much more of a problem. Except for breathing while doing the demo.

A seam 4 foot or more off the floor is much easier to finish than one on your knees. It also allows for better airflow to hasten drying.

Rather than lug around a sheet of plywood to use as a gauge , I would make a simple guide from 1x stock, a guide with legs. This could be longer than 8 foot and require less positioning. 2-3 screws would hol it in place whether they hit a stud or not. 

Cut at 48.5" to allow for jacking the new board in place.

If it gets deep staying at least a foot from the ceiling will allow the finisher to feather out the repair without the need to tape the joint where the ceiling meets the wall.

Of all the tools I own for this I would use a RotoZip with drywall bits and cut the guide tip off (someone may sell a bit like this). Then set the blade depth to 9/16".


----------



## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Need to get repair guidelines from insurance and determine what you can and should not do. Sometimes even if you are within the carriers guidelines, you will only add red tape and hinder the claim.

Whether you use a Rotozip, router or circ saw I wouldn't worry about the additional mess. If the house was flooded, just about everything organic sitting on the first floor is trash.


----------



## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

If any wiring gets wet, the paper will soak up the water, and it is recommend that the wiring be replaced.

http://www.southwire.com/support/GuidelinesForHandlingWaterDamagedElecWireAndCable.htm

http://www.dli.mn.gov/Ccld/PDF/flood_top.pdf

http://www.dep.state.pa.us/dep/deputate/watermgt/GENERAL/FLOODS/fs1958.htm


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I didn't see anything in the links that directly addressed salt water. 
Some of the affected areas are getting hit with storm surge water from the gulf.

I'd take the approach that if saltwater touched the wire/cable, it gets replaced from a point several feet higher than the high water line.

Electrical replacement is another good reason for a 4ft drywall cut vs the small strip approach.


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

Thanks again for all input; every tip is useful, even if we don't use a tip, exactly as stated. They all give me ideas to work from. Overall - excellent.

Man, were we busy early this AM. Had purchased big fans online, but no stores (few that are open) are "pulling" orders. Had to get there early & grab. Son & I were at 3 diff stores & the wife calling around. We got VERY lucky - got the last 2 (42") floor fans shown anywhere, a 30 inch-er, plus found 7 box fans. We already have 3 HVAC blowers, some box & pedestal fans. Should be set w/ a fan in every room & big ones out the doors.

Water's not receded yet - this is record breaking flood in many parts of the county. Even interstate Hwys under several ft, at some major creeks.

Once water drops below slab level (slab is 3' above curb), have to check / clean AC conden. - chk moisture in junction box & clean cooling fins. I don't think water level got up to condenser junction box.

May change once we get in, but probably use one or combo of tips here - for a rotozip guide. Simple & easy / quick to move. Just too many linear ft to free hand a tool.

* Dust issue: part is about breathing (have good masks), coating eyeglasses. But some stuff on 1st flr was elevated. We'll use thin, poly drop cloths - close off doorways & cover some pieces.

@ jbfan - I'd never heard of paper in Romex getting wet as an issue. If saltwater, I can see that. This is far from the coast - no salt. We'll look into it. Does NEC mention anything on it? I don't think water got up to outlets.

Definitely will have him to get re-construction requirements from FEMA (they handle flood insur.) - or the state.

This (so far) is < 1 ft of water in the house, so no drywall joint near ceilings.
Expensive MDF basebd has to go - doubt it can be salvaged.

*** Question*: Glue down engineered wood flooring probably has to go, if only for mold issues. A LOT of it. I've never taken *UP* glued-to-slab wood flooring (put some in). Is there a special power tool for that (won't wreck the slab), or just elbow grease & floor scraper w/ shovel handle (one brand is "The Mutt")?

** Maybe a magnetic hiker's compass needle would swing if near a drywall screw ( pretty sensitive). Can test easily.
Other way: mark every stud, cut ~ 1/4" deep across studs w/ utility knife. Should find screws.


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Southwire talks about floodwater and romex here. (Romex is NM-B)
http://www.southwire.com/support/GuidelinesForHandlingWaterDamagedElecWireAndCable.htm


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Have you thought about generator. The floor should come up


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

http://www.southwire.com/support/GuidelinesForHandlingWaterDamagedElecWireAndCable.htm


> Wire and cable that is listed for dry locations only, such as NM-B, should be replaced if it has been exposed to floodwater. NM-B cable contains paper fillers that can pull contaminated water into the cable, which can cause premature cable failure. Flood damaged cable should be replaced to assure a safe and reliable installation.


I see that. Assuming no saltwater or corrosives - to copper or brass - I've also never seen anyone replace wiring after a couple of days water exposure. But I haven't seen hundreds of flood restorations - at the exact stage where they'd replace wiring.
Maybe I should post in the electrical forum.

Normal water isn't particularly corrosive to copper, unless highly acidic or alkaline. Theoretically, it could have suspended soil that has corrosive characteristics. Possibly, a flood water sample could be tested - if found a qualified lab. 

If more drywall stays than is cut out, where would the wire replacement stopping point be? One ft up, 3',7' - all the way to circuit panel? 
How would you know how far water had wicked up the wire? Slice a sample open?

Would they just set a box a few ft above the highest water line & make the junction inside the wall? Maybe I missed it - don't see any guidelines.
A wire mfg's (& *seller's*) statement may or may not mean much. I don't know. If I / others can find something from an unbiased authority, with real data, I'll definitely pay attention.

I've also seen copper & brass connections - in very humid conditions for decades (no climate contro) that had some minor oxidation, but functioned fine.

Every electronic device w/ an agreement w/ one battery mfg says, "always use only genuine XYZ batteries." But it doesn't mean anything. I'd wait to see if the water got to outlets - may be a moot point.

Re: Youtube vid - chiseling up glued wood floor. It's interesting, but unless the chisel's extremely rounded, I don't see how it wouldn't gouge the Hades out of the slab. I couldn't really tell.
And if it's that rounded, I don't see how it'd get it all up.
Maybe remove the bulk, then hand scraping?

Then I saw this 



They show a very thin, flexible steel blade. You can see it gouging up chunks of concrete. Maybe that's the price of doing it fast(er) - have to fill deeper gouges, chips. If the end of new glued floor board was over a gouge - not good.


----------



## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

If you had 6 inches your flood insurance will pay you to remove 48 inches. They won't pay any higher than that but that is standard. If your damage is above 48 they will pay to the ceiling. The companies that go around drying and treating will charge you a fortune. If your son has a mortgage they may require that has to be treated and have certification. If insurance isn't involved I would cut it where it's dry, remove insulation and use conchrobium. I may have spelled that wrong. You can get a moisture meter to help determine when it's time to close things back up


----------



## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Also take everything out to the street and start a pile, don't throw anything out. Insurance will want to document, take lots of pictures. Your cabinets will be coming out if there is Sheetrock behind them. Flood insurance is different then your regular homeowners. Your adjuster will give you guidance when you can get with him. Your job now is to prevent further damage which possibly won't be covered if you neglect to do anything. Last year over 140,000 homes flooded here so I have a little experience. you will be hard pressed to find a good contractor because the good ones will be busy. Look for licensed contractors, the fraud here was rampant with not so desirable contractors. If you sub yourself (your mortgage company may not want you too) a bad Sheetrock finish will be hard to live with. Be prepared to wait 4 to 6 months for funds. By the time you get it out of the insurance company you will find that the check is made out to the mortgage company as well. They will probably give you about a $5000 check and hold out for several months before you will actually get funds. They will want several bids but you will probably have a hard time getting bids because the contractors will be busy. You may be able to self contract. If your area says its legal fight your mortgage company. I had a time trying to get my mortgage company to pay me. And I'm a licensed contractor but I did not want a 1099 and be taxed to repair my own home. They finally settled on me writing a contract to myself and sign it and send it in. Had to send a copy of my license as well. They actually made the check payable to my name and my name again written on the check. Good luck!


----------



## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Here is a paper from UL.

http://cms.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/UL_Flood_Electrical_Equipment_WP_V4.pdf


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Cut it out 48" that's where the joint is and a new sheet will fit back in with minimal cutting, and it will give you a tapered edge where they meet. And forget the rotozip or saw just knock a hole in the wall with a hammer to give you someplace to get ahold of and start pulling it off.

Get it off as soon as possible to stop mold growth. And don't put the new up until it's perfectly dry. This means the cavity and the studs.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Above the joint at 48' there will not be a taper.


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

> If your son has a mortgage they may require that has to be treated and have certification.


Good point. He talked to FEMA adjuster (flood insur) today. Don't know the full details, but the FEMA adjuster told him he could go ahead & start demo & drying process before the adjuster came out (due to mold risk).
I'll pass along that he should investigate if mortgage holders can require certain things. He has connections at a bank, so should get info w/o tipping his hand.

OK jbfan, I'll look at that later. I'm beat tonight.

I've been on him as hard as I dare about getting in & the wet stuff out, before he tunes me out (& he's got 6" & about 125 lbs on me). The water receded from his house late today & he wet vac'd it.
I asked what time we would get started. He mentioned "doing something else tomorrow." Huh? I think I finally convinced him it couldn't wait - water's been in there 3 days. Later he seemed to change his mind. These kids.
I imagine they're a bit in shock, still.

I'll have him check all the suggestions here. Note: states may have diff rules (mortgage holder rights), but FEMA is federal - same rules in all states. I'm not sure who's in charge of what requirements after floods.


> the fraud here was rampant with not so desirable contractors


No kidding - I'm shocked. :smile: When my son built the semi-custom house, the mud crew was worse than me the 1st time my dad taught me to tape & float @ about 13. They & the construction "manager" (guy in a suit) hated my guts by the time they were done. I only pointed out legitimate errors or code violations. They had to re-do lots & lots of things. 

I / my son tried to tell the mgr & the mud crew's foreman it would look horrible, the way they were (not) finishing the joints. Fixed some things, but overall "Johnny does not listen to or follow instructions." Construction mgr thought it'd look better when painted.:vs_no_no_no: It didn't. Tried to tell him & save some $.

After paint crew textured & painted, you could see almost every seam - distinctly - on most ceilings & many walls - a LONG way off. They had to re-float most ceilings & lots of walls. (That was out of the mud contractor's pocket) Re-texturing & re-paint was out of builder's. He told my son they'd only re-do it if I stayed off jobsite during work hours. :biggrin2: They probably had no legal leg, but by then my work was done. I even had the electricians correct several serious mistakes. And this wasn't a " low quality" reputation builder.

Re: the cut up to 48" issue. I don't get it if only 12" is wet.
1) The "bevel" is -gone- on the upper sheet's long edge (& the lower), when they taped / floated. Unless one wants to sand / scrape all that down to drywall paper, the upper sheet's edge will be raised & the lower, new sheet beveled. That doesn't make it easier, to me - maybe to others? 
Like that, got to float it out a long way on bottom sheet to hide unevenness.

If it's not new rock w/ both edges beveled, I'd rather start where both are exact same height.
By the time you float (some) over the top sheet's existing mud (unless you sand it all down), it makes the joint even higher. On a patch - yes, I'd scrape / sand it. On the whole house, no. 

@ BayouRunner - yep, I think we've got most covered.
Anyone that hasn't been thru something similar, you'd better take heed. They will screw you over, given a chance.
No idea how FEMA pays claims under flood coverage. I doubt it'll be smooth. We'll document & take pics of everything - it's the only way to go. Even take pics of full "bagsters", if you've seen those at Lowes.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Above the joint at 48' there will not be a taper.


There will be if you remove the tape the old JC will come with it.


----------



## jwielgolinski (Mar 21, 2017)

Go with the 48 inches. Use a circular saw. Fit it with a cut off blade. No issues with nails or screws. Why 48 inches? Just plain easier to tape and mud the horizontal. Who wants to be mudding and taping at 8 inches from the ground? And drywall just isn't that expensive in the grand scheme of the work. Make it as easy as possible on yourself... You've got a lot of work to do.

The floor? Yikes. Glue down ANYTHING sucks. There are a number of scrappers on the market. Get something that oscillates side to side instead of front to back. Good luck!


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

@ BayouRunner (& others) - that mentioned Removing the lower 48" of drywall. It's a moot point whether it's "easier" or not. Apparently, that's what FEMA flood insur. requires, even if got 1" of drywall wet.
No, the tape & joint compound won't just "come off" by gently pulling or gentle scraping. (I can tell that's *not *old school talking - it was called "mud.").:smile:
If my son want's a finished joint @ 48" that's barely invisible, the contractor (or he) will have to scrape and / or power sand - a good bit, before taping. Or, float it out 2 - 3 ft, on each side, to hide the hump.

But truly - thanks for all the good replies & ideas.
Though the AC tech couldn't get both condenser units working, thankfully I did. Hope he didn't pay that kid too much.

We / my son just did a rough (faster) cut at ~ 42" - to get all wet stuff out ASAP, & let the contractor cut it smoothly to 48".


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Good to hear you are in and underway.


----------



## tearitup (Jan 4, 2015)

jbfan said:


> Here is a paper from UL.
> 
> http://cms.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/UL_Flood_Electrical_Equipment_WP_V4.pdf


jbfan, thank you. I read the UL article - 2x. I see what they're saying, but there are absolutely no guidelines given, which is what I mentioned in a post.
How to determine proper inches / ft of type NM-B (interior Romex) to replace, given water depth, 'd' , above exposed / cut ends of the cable.

Not being sarcastic (at all), but so far searching hasn't turned up guidelines or electric codes. Maybe FEMA (flood insur.) has info - don't know. Can also post on some "professional" electrical sites.

The only way I'd know to tell how far, or -if- the paper wrapping got wet is slowly slice PVC jacket from the bottom up. If anyone has better idea, don't be shy.
Note: I'm *not* sure water level got up to typical wall outlet. 

Why? (1) Bcs son put some furniture on 16" cinder / concrete blocks.
Not even half the blocks' height were wet - even if they wicked it higher than actual H2O level. There's only 3 - 4 outlets under low windows, lower than std outlet ht.

(2) Morning after water receded (AC turned off whole time), I looked in outlet boxes. No trace of moisture or silt / sludge from flood water. Bottom inside of box(es) dry as a bone, while drywall still very wet & wtr standing on the floor.

Still, I'd like to know the procedure, guidelines - if any. When an article says "replace" it could be 3" or 8 ft.
I'll look some more. If anyone finds specific guidelines, please post. I've wired & re-wired my own homestead(s) - followed code from some electrician contacts & NEC. So setting a box w/ lid inside a wall is nothing. Just don't want to be Chicken Little here.


----------



## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

tearitup said:


> jbfan, thank you. I read the UL article - 2x. I see what they're saying, but there are absolutely no guidelines given, which is what I mentioned in a post.
> How to determine proper inches / ft of type NM-B (interior Romex) to replace, given water depth, 'd' , above exposed / cut ends of the cable.
> 
> Not being sarcastic (at all), but so far searching hasn't turned up guidelines or electric codes. Maybe FEMA (flood insur.) has info - don't know. Can also post on some "professional" electrical sites.
> ...


I have never had to do a flood repair, so everything I say about it is from others that have.

No matter how far you cut the wire back, it will have to be inside a junction box, and that has to remain accessible. 

Maybe the the flood insurance will have better guidelines.

Sorry I can't be of more help


----------



## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Not an electrician but I will tell you what I saw. I did not see any homes that flooded over the receptacles get new wiring. I did see where they changed all receptacles and if water was higher they changed switches and panels. Only new wiring I noticed was something the owner added. And this is something I don't understand. Let's say you have some issues with the ac and the condenser needs to be replaced. They will pay you for that. But it won't pay to change the inside air handler or coil. Let's say you have a refrigerant 22 unit and the coil has to be replaced because the condenser doesn't match. Doesn't matter. Only paying for the outside.


----------

