# concrete drive and walk



## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

I wanted pavers to replace my concrete driveway but the expense is out of budget. So, I am looking at concrete for a driveway and walkway. Drive is currently about 8' x 55' and will have a curving walkway about 4' x 20' to the entry door. The new drive will be about 12' wide. I will do the demo and probably work a deal with a concrete guy to assist with the prep and pour. 

What sort of details should I make sure are covered when I tackle this job?


Is the stain/tint that is just hand tossed on to the wet concrete a good idea? I would like to dress it up a little over plain concrete. 


BTW, we don't have freeze issues, located in coastal Georgia. 

Thanks guys!


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Are you replacing the entire slab because the concrete is in poor shape?


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## CrpntrFrk (Nov 4, 2008)

I don't know what concrete prices are out there or what pavers you are wanting but out here pavers vs concrete is very comparable and is well worth the little extra $$. That is all we are installing in our new houses. 
Also you would not have to hire anyone to do the work.


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

I want to replace the old drive with one that looks better, but more importantly, is wider. I want to be able to exit a vehicle and walk into the house without being on the yard. Also, the driveway is starting to crack in a few places and I know it will start to get worse. 

Pavers will be more than concrete here for sure. I bet twice as much for an installation that follows standard practice, but I will find out in few days when I get some quotes.


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## ptspurlock (Aug 14, 2009)

*concrete driveway and walk*

7echo

I believe the hand tossed stain you are referring to would be color hardener.

If that was your reference, it is best choice to just color.

Color hardener is a dry color powder applied to concrete at a rate not more than 100 sq.ft. per 5 gal pail after the surface moisture has dispersed, The first application is broadcast on the surface, let it remain on the surface for several minutes until it wets out sufficiently, then float with a wood float or magnesium float. immediately broadcast the second application and let it wet out for several minutes then trowel with a Fresno or steel trowel.


The next day apply 2 coats solvent based 30% solids sealer @ a rate of 25 to 35 feet per gallon.

This color hardener serves two purposes, First it adds color of choice 
(around 40 colors) *Second, this coloring system gives the concrete an extremely hard and durable surface, that when properly sealed and maintained will not deteriorate and is virtually maintenance free for decades*.


Paul Spurlock
Enhancing the image of concrete since 1975


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Paul, good info for the most part, & I would agree with the majority of it.

But, where do you find a solvent based sealer that can be applied within 1 day *and *never needs re-appliction? I'm only assuming you meant the sealer is permanent due to you saying "virtually maintenance free for decades."

In my experiances, every solvent-based sealer recommends 30 days min. cure before application. That's not always feasible IMO so we shoot for 1 week min. on summer exterior work. The first seal coat seems to only last a year or 2, due to the elevated moisture still left in the crete during curing. The second application of sealer seems to last more like 4-7 years, since the concrete is fully cured & acheives optimum adhesion to the concrete.


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

I am not sure about using a sealer on a driveway. Never really heard of that around here, but I will check it out. 

Thanks for the comments.


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

If you DIY, pavers would be cheaper. You could find some at discount and away you go. There are pavers around here for as little as $0.25/paver. If the existing concrete is in decent shape you could actually lay over the concrete.


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## ptspurlock (Aug 14, 2009)

jomama45, 

I hope this will answer this response. I should have expanded that post a little farther, just trying to shorten the answer

But, where do you find a solvent based sealer that can be applied within 1 day *and *never needs re-appliction? I'm only assuming you meant the sealer is permanent due to you saying "virtually maintenance free for decades.

1. DESCRIPTION: 
*CHROME-SEAL™ is a specially formulated
30% solids, solvent based acrylic sealer
and curing agent specifically designed for
sealing and protecting all types of colored
and decorative concrete surfaces.*
CHROME-SEAL™ 30% is a nonyellowing,
non-styrenated clear sealer that is
resistant to oil, grease, gasoline, deicing salts,
ultra-violet rays, wet and dry abrasion and
many household chemicals and foodstuffs.
CHROME-SEAL™ 30% contains specially
formulated resins and solvents that are designed
for maximum penetration into the
concrete surface for bringing out the rich colors
in any decorative concrete application
while simultaneously creating a protective
barrier for all types of concrete and masonry
surfaces. CHROME-SEAL™ 30% conforms
to ASTM C309 as a curing compound
for concrete.
2. RECOMMENDED USES: 
• Stamped Concrete Surfaces
• STENCIL-CRETE® Overlay Systems
• VENEER-CRETE™ Resurfacing Systems
• CHROME-CRETE™ Integral Colored
Concrete Surfaces
• CHROME-ETCH™ Acid Stained Surfaces
• DURA-TOP™ Counter Tops
• Exposed Aggregate
• Stone
• Brick Pavers
• Concrete Masonry Units
• Ornamental Precast Concrete
*3. BENEFITS: 
• Can be applied to stamped concrete
as soon as the day after initial placement.*
• Seals all concrete surfaces, providing
glossy appearance, easy maintenance
and clean up.
• Non-yellowing under ultra violet
exposure.
• Resistant to mold, mildew and
many other organic stain producers.
4. PACKAGING: 
CHROME-SEAL™ is available in
one, five and fifty-five gallon units.
5. DIRECTIONS FOR USE: 
Surface Preparation
New concrete surfaces must be completely
dry, clean and free from curing
agents, waxes, paints or any other compounds
which would prevent penetration
of the sealer into the concrete surface.
Pressure washing and acid etching
is recommended prior to sealing plain
concrete surfaces. For sealing stamped
concrete, STENCIL-CRETE®, VENEER-
CRETE™ or CHROMECHROME-
SEAL™ 30% Solids
Acrylic Solvent Based Clear Sealer
CHROME-SEAL™ 30% Solids Clear
Concrete Sealer
S P E C I A L T Y C O N C R E T E P R O D U C T S , I N C . 
SCP SYSTEMSPEC CS.300 
Written 4-1-01 
General Properties Data
Shelf Life 2 Years
Application Temp & Humidity 50 F to 85 F @ less than 75% R.H.
Coverage 200-250 s.f. per gal
Colors Clear
Packaging 1 gal, 5 gal & 55 gal Units
Application Methods High quality 1/4” to 3/8” nap roller
Cure Rate @ 75 . F Recoat 2-4 hrs.
Foot Traffic 12 hrs.
Heavy Traffic 24+ hrs.
Chemical Resistance 72+ hrs.
Viscosity @ 25 degrees C, cps 150
Percent Solids, by weight 30.0

And this response.


In my experiances, every solvent-based sealer recommends 30 days min. cure before application. That's not always feasible IMO so we shoot for 1 week min. on summer exterior work. The first seal coat seems to only last a year or 2, due to the elevated moisture still left in the crete during curing. The second application of sealer seems to last more like 4-7 years, since the concrete is fully cured & acheives optimum adhesion to the concrete.


*After the concrete has achieved its initial set*
*(as soon as the next day in warm climates*, and
as long as 10 days in cold climates), the release
agent may be removed by rinsing with a high
power pressure washer. Care should be taken
not to remove all release agent from concrete,
especially from grout lines and deeper indentations
.
*CURING & SEALING*
*To protect and help cure the concrete, 2*
*coats of SCP’s nonyellowing, solvent based*
*CHROME-SEAL 30% Solids Clear Acrylic sealer*
*may be applied. It should be applied at a*
*rate of 250 - 350 ft2/gal (6 - 9 m2/L) per coat.*




*8. Maintenance
CHROME-HARD is virtually maintenance-free.*
Should the concrete surface become contaminated
with dirt, oil or debris, it may be
scrubbed with a mild detergent solution and
then rinsed with clear water. 
*
After 2 - 5 years** of use, the luster of the sealer may diminish;
however, this does not mean that the sealer
has dissipated*.* At that time, and at the
owner’s discretion, another coat or two of SCP
30% solids acrylic sealer may be applied to
renew the appearance of the surface.*

I hope this answers your questions.

Paul Spurlock

Owner;http://www.signature-concrete-stain.com/


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Thanks for that info Paul, I cant say that I've ever heard of the company or sealer. I checked out there website, but couldn't find anywhere that sold it. I may have to contact you sometime to experiment with it!:thumbup::thumbup:


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## TooledUp (Jul 7, 2009)

Yup, I would go with the pavers. It definately is affordable if you do it yourself. Maybe you could work out a deal with a landscape company to do the initial prep work and then you could lay the block?? If the you go with concrete it can always crack again---if you use the block if you have any movement you can just pull out the blocks re-level and put them back in!! Plus, it is much more decorative. On the contrary you could do stamped concrete which gives the same look--however if it cracks it wont look so hot.


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## TCS-Austin (Apr 21, 2011)

Hey Paul. Tell me more about this color hardener. We are doing a patio and want to stain it or add some color to it. I will be troweling in a texture so when when I add the color? Before I texture it?


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## mustangmike3789 (Apr 10, 2011)

another option to colored concrete would be to use an integeral color. these are color packs that can be added directly into the the concrete mix. some concrete suppliers will charge an extra cleanout fee if they allow you to add the colors packs to there trucks or some do supply colored concrete themselves. integeral colors are mostly earth tone colors, viborant colors are more expensive due to the type of portland cement needed.


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