# Egress window header, construction..



## quackaddict (Jan 23, 2013)

Hey all, 

Have a new project on the horizon for our 1954 home. As the title implies I would like to install egress windows in half of our basement, one in a new bedroom, and another in a new living area.

My plan is to use two 32x42 casement vynl windows. These meet the size requirements and will put me well within the 44inch height requirement from the floor. 

The house has block construction for a foundation with 2x8 joists/rim. The roof is a hip puts load onto all four walls. The wall I want to put these windows in has joists running into the rim. Floor span supported by the joist is 11 feet. 

According to this chart:
http://www.iompc.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/Framing-from-the-Sill-Plate-to-the-Top-Plate.pdf

It looks like a double 2x4 would be marginal and a double 2x6 would be plenty. My question is regarding the rim/header mainly. If you put a double header under a single rim, what good is the header? Do you need it in this case? There is so much back and forth with header /no header it makes my head spin. I have a 32 inch wide window on the other side of the house under identical load that uses the 2x8 rim as the header, 50+ years later that opening shows no signs of bow or deflection that I can detect.

Secondly, any other tips for installation? Some research on this site revealed it may be a good idea to use ice and water as a barrier between the concrete and the treated lumber? Then sticky tape over the lumber on the bottom of the opening and more sticky around the perimeter of the window after install? 

I feel confident in my ability to complete the project, I want to do it right, and want to know what I want to do when I go to pull a permit.

Thanks for you time guys!


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## RMK (Feb 15, 2015)

I would say go with the 2x6 double headers. Codes have changed since your house was built. Even though the other side works fine the building dept. will want the new work to conform to new requirements. An example of this is a covered deck as part of a new house I built required a 4x8 glue lam beam instead of a 4x8 solid lumber beam. Our house has a similar cover with a 2x6 solid lumber beam that works just fine.
As for the header/rim. If I understand you the floor joist run perpendicular to the wall you want to put the window into. The rim should sit on top of a sill plate that also has the floor joist sitting on. The double header will support the sill plate and the floor joist. If that is incorrect let me know.
You could use PL Premium glue to seal in between the wood and the block. I like to install windows with the self sealing fortifiber adhesive flashing and then trim out the exterior. You can find that at Home Depot. I think that is the sticky tape you are referring too.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

where this will be for a basement window go with a double if not triple 2x6 header if you have the depth for it but make sure the hip rafters dont create a point load down to the window opening.

as for using ice and water shield to seal hte window opening DO NOT USE ICE AND WATER SHIELD it is a asphalt based product that will react with vinyl and even fibreglass window units causing the vinyl to break down shortening the life of the unit. a rubber based bitoumanous product such as blue skin or vycor


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Using the rim joist alone (depends on span minus any point loads) or adding to it there is very space-saving and code-acceptable. I have added joists to perpendicular rim joists for built-up headers for years, and passed inspection. 

Gary


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

That link references a Kentucky amended version of the 2006 IRC and is statewide minimum standards which are sometimes superseded by local building codes here in Kentucky. You need to* know your local codes*.

I have found the permit office to me a very friendly place to DIY homeowners. I would make my preliminary permit request drawings and go talk to them. They will tell you what you need to modify.

For what it is worth, If you have an 8" rim joist I would use a doubled 2x8 header over the windows. As I like to overbuild. I would add a plywood core.  The cost difference between a 2x6 and 2x8 is so small that it is not even worth the time to think about it.


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## quackaddict (Jan 23, 2013)

Thank you all for the clarification and information, it is very good to know that the ice and water is a no go, would hate to go through all the effort and mess it up!

Regarding the headers, I have exactly 7 feet to work with in the basement, if you throw a 2x8 or 2x10 under the current rim joist you end up with a window a long ways in the ground. A reinforced rim would be ideal, but I am not comfortable with the removal and replacement of block that would require, the only thing I would comfertable with would be using wood jacks to support the ends of a reinforcement like that, so still cutting to width, but adding a second 2x8 rim and using wood 2x material to support the ends of it. I have not seen that type of install and am not sure it would be appropriate. 

My other thought as I sit here and re read posts, why are headers not more than 2 boards thick? Why can a person use 2 2x8 but not 3,4, or 5 2x6 to equal the strength of the 2 2x8? Is it just not as strong, or is there some other consideration? It would seem most egress installs have plenty of space for 3+ headers, but maybe not as much for height dimension. 

Thanks for all of your help guys!


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

As said correctly, check locally. I have added a 4 ply built-up header in the rim with the joists perpendicular to the wall for new headers before. I sometimes add enough pieces just to clear the inside concrete wall thickness for a header- otherwise there is no way to install it with concrete wall top corner in the way... Gary PS. Header nailing; #8, 9; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_par013.htm?bu2=undefined

Adding ply strength; http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/qa/using-plywood-to-build-up-beams.aspx


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Checking the LOCAL requirements is critical since in most areas a local jurisdiction can have local requirement as long as the are do not reduce the standard, but he requirements can be more restrictive.

As an example, I have seen some local requirements for the OPEN CLEAR height to be a maximum of 42" for an egress window instead of the typical 44" that may be just for the sill itself and not the clear opening itself.

I don't know if that would would do for your project, but talking to the code official would be the prudent thing to do to avoid any future problems.

Dick


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

I fear we have to point out the definition of " OPEN CLEAR height" so that a future reader does not get into trouble. As our local building department does and I assume all do,

*It is not the rough opening height,* It is the clear open space between the top and bottom of the window frame when the sashes are removed. 

My local inspector would not accept the "egress window" sticker on the window. She measured it for herself. In all the inspections I had for this project that is the only time she got her tape measure out.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Adding on to headers is fine, but triple and onward will require bolting or lag screws, and all pieces must be supported at the ends.


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