# Recessed light; max wires in junction box



## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

You are fine. What you propose is only for this one light and is only seven conductors. ALL the grounds only count as one.

I must ask, WHY #12???


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Each hot or neutral conductor counts one point. All the grounds together count one point. All the cable clamps, if any are inside the box, count as one point. For 12 gauge wires allow 2-1/4 cubic inches of box volume per point; 14 or smaller gauge conductors going to the light socket may be counted as 2 cubic inches even.

You have two conductors coming in for power, two conductors daisy chaining off away from the switch subsystem to other lights, three conductors (a 12-3) daisy chaining towards the switch subsystem and other lights, plus the grounds.

Assuming that the count of 8 does not include the two leads (tap conductors) going to "this" light, I would say you are OK.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Allan, with boxes and lights like this the clamps are not counted. They are included in the manufacturer's calculations. 
Also, I do not see where he says the 3-way will be part of this wiring scheme. He just wants to bring the switch leg into a middle light and "T" off from there.


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## Yasla (Dec 31, 2008)

Speedy-Its a new house, and it is all 12 gauge, all 20 amp circuits so I wanted to stay consistent. AllenJ, no 12-3 at all going to this switch, I have only the two switches connected with three way, all the lights including this first mid-run have 12-2 wire going in. Thanks for the responses.


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## newgarage (Dec 21, 2008)

Wires that neither leave nor enter the junction box (ex. the push in connector lead) are not part of the count.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

Yasla said:


> Speedy-Its a new house, and it is all 12 gauge, all 20 amp circuits


 
Thats just crazy! No wonder you bought Halo's... no money left in the budget.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Come on Chris. I like Halo. :thumbsup:

Good enough reason for me Yasla.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

Speedy Petey said:


> Come on Chris. I like Halo. :thumbsup:
> 
> Good enough reason for me Yasla.


 
I find the trims turn yellow after a year or so. Oh, and it was a sad attempt at humor also.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

but... it's ok to USE 12 if you get it for $15 for new 100 ft. rolls at an auction, yes?
i mean, it won't HURT anything, right? 
DM


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## 220/221 (Oct 9, 2007)

When you use #12 for lighting circuits the electrons flow too quickly resulting in brighter light. Install a dimmer and you'll be fine.:whistling2:

Speaking of dimmers, 9 cans @ 75 watts each is 675 watts. Keep in mind that you need a 3way, 1000W dimmer and that it *will *get hot.


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## jamiedolan (Sep 2, 2008)

220/221 said:


> When you use #12 for lighting circuits the electrons flow too quickly resulting in brighter light.


What different would 12awg vs 14 awg make, other than slightly less voltage drop on the 12. Unless it was loaded pretty heavily how would you even notice a difference in the brightness of the light?

Jamie


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Feelin' a 'lil slow today Jamie? :laughing: :whistling2:


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## jamiedolan (Sep 2, 2008)

Speedy Petey said:


> Feelin' a 'lil slow today Jamie? :laughing: :whistling2:


Yes, feeling very slow today. It's already 1:30 here time for me to take a cold shower and wake up!


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

I mean slow as in 221's sarcasm getting by you. :jester:


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## joseph2293 (Jan 31, 2010)

220/221 said:


> When you use #12 for lighting circuits the electrons flow too quickly resulting in brighter light. Install a dimmer and you'll be fine.:whistling2:
> 
> Speaking of dimmers, 9 cans @ 75 watts each is 675 watts. Keep in mind that you need a 3way, 1000W dimmer and that it *will *get hot.


I know this was posted over a year ago but this is completely incorrect...the #12 gauge wire will have a less appreciative voltage drop than the #14 wire...the electrons will flow at the same speed as in the #14 wire but there will be less resistance in the #12 wire...hence less voltage drop...also that wire has better over current protection than the #14...i couldn't stand to read that and no one fully correct him...sorry


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

joseph2293 said:


> ...i couldn't stand to read that and no one fully correct him...sorry


I think it is safe to say 220/221 was making fun on this one. Notice the whistling smiley? :whistling2:




joseph2293 said:


> ...also that wire has better over current protection than the #14


I'll comment myself on this. This is totally wrong in itself. 
#12 DOES NOT have "better" overcurrent protection. How can you possibly say that? Just because #12 can carry 5 more circuit amps than #14?

Overcurrent protection is based on the circuit conductors. None is any "better" than the other.


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## joseph2293 (Jan 31, 2010)

Speedy Petey said:


> I think it is safe to say 220/221 was making fun on this one. Notice the whistling smiley? :whistling2:
> 
> 
> I'll comment myself on this. This is totally wrong in itself.
> ...


Sorry i guess what i MEANT to say is it has the ABILITY to carry more current without overheating...the breaker is the over current protection device

That was an incorrect correction on my part :wink:


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

>>> ... what difference does ...

If the circuit feeding the lights is 20 amp then all the wiring in that circuit including the lines going from one light fixture to the next have to be at least 12 gauge. (The 12 inch or so thinner wires going from the junction box to the lamp socket don't have to be 12 gauge.)


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