# Installing Countertop over HE Washer & Dryer



## shanna6675

I have a Whirlpool HE front-load washer & dryer set & I'm planning on installing a countertop over them. My w/d is set back into a little alcove, which makes it hell to retrieve the socks (why is it always sock?!) that fall behind them, but great for installing a counter. I've already cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to fit into the alcove, but I'm a little concerned that just sitting the plywood directly on top of the w/d might not be wise since the top of the dryer gets a little warm. So, my question is: Is it safe to lay the plywood countertop directly on top of the w/d, or should I install 1x2 brackets for it to sit on?


----------



## Bud Cline

shanna6675 said:


> I have a Whirlpool HE front-load washer & dryer set & I'm planning on installing a countertop over them. My w/d is set back into a little alcove, which makes it hell to retrieve the socks (why is it always sock?!) that fall behind them, but great for installing a counter. I've already cut a 3/4" piece of plywood to fit into the alcove, but I'm a little concerned that just sitting the plywood directly on top of the w/d might not be wise since the top of the dryer gets a little warm. So, my question is: Is it safe to lay the plywood countertop directly on top of the w/d, or should I install 1x2 brackets for it to sit on?


Where are the controls?
Gas or electric dryer?
So the plywood is to be the finished counter top?


----------



## MT Stringer

Have you browsed through HOUZZ? Search for "laundry rooms".
Here is an example.
http://www.houzz.com/photos/3516963/Laundry-Rooms-Cubbies-traditional-laundry-room-other-metro

If you are concerned about heat dissipation, you could add some 3/4 inch spacers under the plywood so the heat could get out. Attach some edge trim to the front to dress it up.


----------



## MT Stringer

Here's more thoughts on your project. Attach a back splash on three sides so you are guaranteed nothing gets behind or to the side of your w/d.

Here is the top of a dresser I recently built for my daughter's new son. I attached the changing pad guard from underneath with screws (and glue between the top and the guard pieces).

You can do the same. Just attach it along the sides and back. Fancy or simple. That is up to you. BTW, the dresser is 43 inches long...should be pretty close to you width.

Hope this helps.
Mike


----------



## MT Stringer

It's a lazy Sunday afternoon, so I got to thinking. 

How about attaching a ledger to the inside of your alcove. Then put your plywood shelf on top of it. Actually, you don't have to nail it to the ledger boards. Just let it sit. You might need to remove it for maintenance some day. :thumbsup:

Just be sure to attach the back splash boards to the shelf as previously mentioned. Then set the shelf in place. Trim the front if needed. If you think the shelf might sag, slip a spacer or three under the front of the shelf so it can rest on top of your W/D.

Here is my idea. Pictures are better than words anyway. 
Note: Attach the ledger boards to the studs using 2 1/2 inch screws.

Good luck.
Post some pics when you get your project complete.
Mike


----------



## ToolSeeker

Maybe I'm reading it wrong but sometimes a dryer gets a little off balance and really does the shake, rattle, and roll thing. Seems like something just sitting on top would walk around and shake pretty bad.


----------



## fibersport

I will be doing the same thing to our washer and dryer along with installing a sink. My plans are first to see if I can find a countertop remnant for the top. For reference, our dryer is on the left, washer in the middle and the sink on the right. I plan on a side panel to the left of the dryer which will be visible so it will need to be decorative rather than just 2x material, some support that runs from the counter to the floor between the washer and dryer, counter to floor support between the washer and sink and a simple 1x strip along the back mounted on the wall for the back of the counter to rest on. For clearances, check the manuals on the units, there are some minimum clearances although they can be as little as 1", you will need some room for ventilation as well as room so you can pull them out for cleaning or servicing.


----------



## MT Stringer

fibersport said:


> I will be doing the same thing to our washer and dryer along with installing a sink. My plans are first to see if I can find a countertop remnant for the top. For reference, our dryer is on the left, washer in the middle and the sink on the right. I plan on a side panel to the left of the dryer which will be visible so it will need to be decorative rather than just 2x material, some support that runs from the counter to the floor between the washer and dryer, counter to floor support between the washer and sink and a simple 1x strip along the back mounted on the wall for the back of the counter to rest on. For clearances, check the manuals on the units, there are some minimum clearances although they can be as little as 1", you will need some room for ventilation as well as room so you can pull them out for cleaning or servicing.


Your washer/dryer must be different than mine. If mine were sitting on the floor, a counter top over it would be at least 39 - 40 inches high. 

And it is about 38 inches from the wall to the front of the washer. Part of that is because the way the exhaust hose from the dryer is routed to the vent on the side of the garage.

I have seen a lot of designs on HOUZZ, some of which are similar to what you described.


----------



## fibersport

While the counter top will be on the high side, right now my wife uses the top of the washer and dryer as a place to put the laundry baskets. Closing it all in will make it look more finished, our washer and dryer are in a small hallway by the back door so I want to disguise them a bit. As for the vent, I picked up a steel box that allows you to run the duct either up or down while it also allows for the dryer to get closer to the wall as the vent can be placed in the box. I also recessed the plumbing into the wall, both the drain and the water shut off's are in recessed boxes too. When I put in the counter top, it will cover everything up. If I had another foot of width in the hallway, I would add doors too, just to make it look more hidden.


----------



## jogr

Just don't cover up access to the water valves. You want to be able to get to them fast if a hose gives out.


----------



## fibersport

Cover up as in under the counter top and out of sight, not actually covered up nor out of reach. The water valves are under the sink, also used stainless braided hoses so I shouldn't have to worry about them for years.

Here's the dryer vent box http://www.dryerbox.com I used.


----------



## drelldrell

I used 3/4" plywood to create a countertop for the washer and dryer. I essentially built a cleat on the back edge with a piano string to that I could lift up the top for servicing. I also added a cleat on the left side for stability. I added a $20 table leg on the right side, which is open, for stability. 

There is a 1/2" gap above the front edge of the counter top and 1" on the left and right sides. The washer and dryer a balance well and have never moved enough to touch the countertop. Worse case, I can push the washer and dryer back about 1-2" and there would be about 2" of height clearance. If it moves that much, I have other things to work about!

The setup looks really good and is very functional. Costs about $125 all in with paint and materials.


----------



## drelldrell

Here is another picture.


----------



## fibersport

Very neat and clean installation!


----------

