# Drywall over popcorn ceiling.



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I am confused. How much drywall and weight is up there already? If failing popcorn on drywall is the issue, and the drywall is not warped and is otherwise alright? Why not just scrape off the popcorn? Not a fun job but many of us have given up days of our lives doing it a time or two.

If the drywall is compromised, why not take it down and replace? I would get shorter mounting hardware for the ceiling fan, or make and thread it before adding a whole layer of drywall so it fits flush?

I suspect I am missing something?

If you must add a layer you need to butt it to the walls and tape and mud as usual. Usually when I drywall a room (or honestly have one done by the drywall sub-contractor) the ceiling goes in first and the walls butt up to it. Looks nicer IMO and the ceiling edges have the top of the wall drywall to sit on so the corner taped seams seldom crack. You could trim the top edge off your wall drywall and slip the new ceiling panels in I guess.

I just don't get why?


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## Elkypro (Dec 23, 2011)

It is the original drywall that is not showing signs of cracking or buckling that i can see. I am just thinking of my different options so I can be better prepared for when I decide which one to do. I will probably take the route of scraping the popcorn eventually but just wanted to ask anyways. Thanks for the info.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Elkypro said:


> It is the original drywall that is not showing signs of cracking or buckling that i can see. I am just thinking of my different options so I can be better prepared for when I decide which one to do. I will probably take the route of scraping the popcorn eventually but just wanted to ask anyways. Thanks for the info.


Gotcha and exploring options is always good. :thumbsup: I must admit, even with a ceiling jack, installing ceiling drywall does not top my list of fun things to do!

Here is another possibiity for you. If the popcorn is alright and you or your client can stand it, time and budget are major issues? There are some really nice, contemporary/modern-not-cheesy-baroque-looking ceiling medallions that actually look like they could sort of belong in new construction. You might think about one to close the ceiling fan mounting hardware gap. If that remains the heart of your challenge here. I would still look at switching to a low profile box and/or cutting off and re-threading the ceiling fan hardware. 

I put some of the mentioned medallions in place for a client and must say I almost admit to having liked them. They did open my mind to the concept of using such things in a pinch. Those frilly things you probably think of when I mention ceiling medallions look painfully stupid in eight foot new construction rooms. Unless the room has my other faves, lawn ornaments brought in for the winter.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Imho to put another layer of rock on the ceiling is a bad idea. It opens a whole can of worms, it's hard to find the joists thru the existing, you must remember to use longer screws, the outside perimeter is unsupported, you will need to tape outside perimeter to wall, now you will need to repaint walls, you will have to tape, mud, sand, all drywall seams and screw heads, prime, and paint ceiling. Or scrap popcorn (easy job if not painted) simply get a cheap sprayer fill with water add a little fabric softener spray the ceiling let set about 10 minutes, spray again start scrapping. touch up minor defects, prime, paint. Oh for the fan just change the box for a low profile. :yes:


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## Elkypro (Dec 23, 2011)

This popcorn ceiling is painted which I know will make the job to scrape it harder. But how much harder? Just not able to soften it up as if not painted?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Most of those evil popcorn ceilings were put up to avoid having to tape and properly finish ceilings. Almost all are but mixture of crappy ceiling paint and polysterene or other material just sprayed on the drywall with no primer. 

Now then, I have encountered one or two through all the years that were actually done for acoustical reasons and the way it should be. Those were a bit of a challenge to remove. 

The others? Once you get started and can get under an edge with a wide flexible drywall knife or comparable tool? I think you will be surprised at how fast it goes. I find a garden sprayer makes it easier to saturate the material, painted or not. Don't try to saturate more than you can work with at a time or it will just dry out on you. 

It is a mess though so make sure you tarp everything off and especially the floors in the room. This is one instance where some decent plastic tarps might be the best choices because you can just roll/fold them up with all the ceiling pieces and toss them when done. Don't get the thin ones though. I find them useless for much of anything.


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