# Shed Ramp



## Boatnuts (Feb 18, 2007)

I need to build a ramp on our shed to accomodate a new lawn tractor.

A 4 foot wide x 5 foot long (6 inch rise from foundation to shed floor) would do. I would like a wider ramp, perhaps up to 6 feet wide. My minimum width is based on using plywood for the ramp deck. 

I am open to suggestions on deck and framing materials that will survive and outdoor exposure and be strong enough to support a lawn tractor. I also would like some construction plan advice on this ramp.

TIA!!!


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## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

I use 2 2x10's with bricks at the shed end so that I can remove the ramps when not needed. If you build a permanat ramp, make sure that the area adjoining the shed will drain to prevent rot.


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## Darylh (Jan 2, 2006)

I would build a deck with pressure treated wood (2x6) 12" o/c,. 3/4" exterior plywood. Before starting I would pour a little concrete footing so once the frame was put on it it would be level with the ground and would be sitting on the concrete. Build a deck 12 inches on center and lag bolt it every 12 inches to the shed floot joist so when you put the plywood on it is at your desired level oh yah put some L flashing under the sheds exterior finsh boards to keep water from running in between the plywood and the shed. Tape your plywood seams and prime, then apply some texture tread deck coating.
Of course there are other ways but here is another one to get the ball rolling.


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## RYANINMICHIGAN (Jan 20, 2006)

WOW now that is a cool drawing. I woudl just figure out the angel cut the end of my joists build a frame 12 or 16 oc. deck with 5/4 PT, level ground bolt to shed. you say "lawn tractor" So 2x4 should be plenty.


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## Boatnuts (Feb 18, 2007)

Darylh said:


> I would build a deck with pressure treated wood (2x6) 12" o/c,. 3/4" exterior plywood. Before starting I would pour a little concrete footing so once the frame was put on it it would be level with the ground and would be sitting on the concrete. Build a deck 12 inches on center and lag bolt it every 12 inches to the shed floot joist so when you put the plywood on it is at your desired level oh yah put some L flashing under the sheds exterior finsh boards to keep water from running in between the plywood and the shed. Tape your plywood seams and prime, then apply some texture tread deck coating.
> Of course there are other ways but here is another one to get the ball rolling.


Thank You! We will build it tomorrow.


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## Boatnuts (Feb 18, 2007)

My best buddy came over today to help me. After a couple of cups of coffee we drove to Home Depot...materials cost just under $100 including two sheets of 3/4" exterior grade 4x8, three 2x6x12's, six joist hangars and 2 boxes of exterior grade screws.

We got the framing and one sheet of plywood (cut to 61" width) on before it started to rain. We were able to use a 4x4 timber that frames the perimeter of the shed as a support for the joists, although by doing so we needed to make some additional cuts in the joists so they sat flush with the top of the 4x4. As the 4x4 was about 4 feet out from the shed we did not need to pour a concrete support at the ramp's leading edge.

We will finish the project tomorrow and then let my better half give it a couple of coats of exterior paint (with sand mix).

As simple as the project looked I could not have done this job without my friend as we had to take down and cut several inches off the bottom of both shed doors and then rehang them......not a one person job considering the amount of lumber (weight) in each door.

FYI: I received 2 estimates for this job from local handyman services. Both were over $400. 

BTW: Always remember that good friends are hard to grow..........and they are priceless!


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