# Removing Wallpaper Then Painting Question



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

All good questions-
As you pull off the vinyl, lay it down and use it for a drop cloth.
Have a bucket to toss gummy paste in, a good sponge and water bucket- a rough scrubbie pad.
Wet the wall with the sponge and let the water soak into the paste. It is probably clay based paste ( brown stuff) and will take a bit- 
Then when soft but not runny use a 6" and 4" scraper and scrape the muck off the wall the best you can, toss in the muck bucket.
Then sponge again and use the scrubbie too to get whatever you can get off- change water often. Getting the paste off is very important.

When you have done all you can, let dry , give it a quick sand to knock any nubs off, and then prime with something that will seal the paste residue in-- only 2 products I absolutely trust for this-
Zinsser Gardz ( clear thin waterbase) or a coat of oil like Cover Stain. I prefer Gardz. Both have a bit of stink- oil much more. 
Then do whatever repairs are needed, sand and reprime those- should be ready to go with a quality eggshell ( best for Kitchens) .

I think Ben Moore Regal Select is fantastic, but there are other good choices. 

Good luck!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

What he ^ said
here is another link to read

http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/wallpaper_stripping.html


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## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

I agree 100% with what Brushjockey said about the wallpaper removal process, wall prep and paint. I personally love using Benjamin Moore Ultra Spec 500 paint (Zero VOC) for interior paint projects. Good Luck!


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Brush you like the egg over semi in the kitchen? I always used semi just for the washability when you consider cooking oils, grease splatters, things that are sprayed, spills and all. Same for baths when you think of things sprayed and spilled in there. It just seems that these walls get wiped a lot more than most.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

The new eggs ( like Regal Select and Aura) hold up to washing as good as anything short of epoxy. I am not a big fan of shiney walls. 

That said, I have done a few with Muralo semi or even oil Impervo.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Brushjockey said:


> The new eggs ( like Regal Select and Aura) hold up to washing as good as anything short of epoxy. I am not a big fan of shiney walls.
> 
> That said, I have done a few with Muralo semi or even oil Impervo.


 
I agree. I have painted some semi, but ONLY when the customer demands it.


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## RoofContractor (Feb 26, 2013)

check this video hope this will help you.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYZK5xz8FWM


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## JMDPainting (Sep 7, 2009)

When I remove wallpaper I tape plastic to the baseboard and pull it out 3 feet from the wall. Then all wet paper, glue etc will fall on the plastic. When done just wrap up the plastic with everything inside and throw it away.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

RoofContractor said:


> check this video hope this will help you.
> 
> www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYZK5xz8FWM


 
You can watch it but forget the part about oil based primers. Also, start the spraying and go from the bottom up, not from the top down.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

JMDPainting said:


> When I remove wallpaper I tape plastic to the baseboard and pull it out 3 feet from the wall. Then all wet paper, glue etc will fall on the plastic. When done just wrap up the plastic with everything inside and throw it away.


That tape with plastic runner material attached works well when used this way. Pricey though.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

So. I got all the wall paper off. I can see the obvious glue.. A yellowish brown thicker stuff. We wet this down and it comes off no problem. Underneath is a white layer which of wet down also comes off with some serious elbow grease. How can I tell if the white stuff underneath needs to come off? Can not tell if it is an older cheaper paint. When wet and scrapped off it seems a little pasty. Not sure of this description... Hopefully this makes sense


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Sometimes its hard to tell if its paste or a primer. Not sure what to tell you, this is where a bit of experience comes in- when to stop.

If you think you are loosening up the primer, let it dry, sand to get bits of stuff off, prime with gardz and then you might need to skim where needed.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

Epic! We figured it out. White stuff is paint or primer, we scrapped some areas in the kitchen down to the old paint even below the white before we determined that was not right. We realized our error and things began to speed up. It is amazing how different techniques work in different spots depending on the glue coverage. Some spots a sponge took it off after a persoak, and in others the brush or scraper was ideal. We got the kitchen and living room glue done (other than where we need a ladder). We will finish the high areas to tomorrow as well as the bathroom. Then sanding is next on the list.


The only major challenge now is how we are going to get behind the radiators. Most of them have some clearance, but the one in the kitchen, there is almost none. Any suggestions?


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

splintner said:


> Epic! We figured it out. White stuff is paint or primer, we scrapped some areas in the kitchen down to the old paint even below the white before we determined that was not right. We realized our error and things began to speed up. It is amazing how different techniques work in different spots depending on the glue coverage. Some spots a sponge took it off after a persoak, and in others the brush or scraper was ideal. We got the kitchen and living room glue done (other than where we need a ladder). We will finish the high areas to tomorrow as well as the bathroom. Then sanding is next on the list.
> 
> 
> The only major challenge now is how we are going to get behind the radiators. Most of them have some clearance, but the one in the kitchen, there is almost none. Any suggestions?


 
pull the radiators? that's the only way I know



*PASTE*


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

*PASTE* *PASTE* 

*PASTE* *PASTE* 

*PASTE* *PASTE* 

*PASTE* *PASTE* :whistling2::laughing:


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

Only tooks about 45minutes to get all the wallpaper down from the livingroom, kitchen and bathroom.



This is where we were confused - before we realized the white stuff was paint or primer (not glue) -- feel a little dumb but, there is a learning curve with all DIY.




My experience patching walls are zero -- in the kitchen, when we removed the wall paper, we found this. Any suggestions how to tackle this? We need to 'fill' the hole some how and then I imagine we can take some sort of 'wall puddy' and fill the small gap in the sheetrock below it?

For the hole will we need a piece of shetrock and essentially 'make it fit' and 'glue' it in with some sort of material? 

Thoughts?



Additionally, small cracks or where the sheetrock meets in the living room, when we prime first, will that cover these up fine? Do we need do to anything extra?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

These are drywall walls and not plaster I assume from your comments?

You will need a drywall saw and something to cut some 2x material with, some 2x scraps, drywall screws, mud, tape, drywall knife, drywall mud pan, and drywall compound. I would get hot mud mix for this. 

It may sound contrary to logic but you need to enlarge the hole in the wall so you can get to the framed 2x's to the side of the opening. Right now the hole is to big to try and patch without support behind it. The edges would just flop around and destroy your taping job. Make sure you will not nick plumbing or electrical. A simple drywall saw will work to cut a larger opening. 

Once you cut away to framing on both sides, you will sister some lengths of 2x to the framing. You can nail them or attach with drywall screws. These will give you something to attach the drywall patch to. 

If that wood piece showing does not stretch long enough, you will need to cut some cross pieces of 2x for the top and bottom of the new hole also. Toenail them into the 2x studs. 

Measure a piece of replacement drywall the exact size of the whole you made. Screw it to the supports you added with drywall screws and to that center piece of wood too for stability. If you have a difference in thickness, you may have to make some fir strips to bring the drywall out to the height you need. Or you will have to build up with compound. If it is standard drywall, this should not be a problem.

Mud, tape, texture, prime and paint. 

You may find working with hot mud easier for this repair since you can control the consistency and the cure time will be faster than with tub pre-mix mud. Hot mud is sold in boxes (5minute) and sacks with cure times from 5-120 minutes. 20 or even 45 minute mud would be a good starting point for you until you get used to the material. You mix what you need, in this instance since you need a small amount, in your drywall pan. You can play around with consistency, texture, and cure time to find something that comes close to the existing texture. 

The cracks concern me. Usually when you see this happening along drywall joints someone did not bother to tape the joints as they should have. This is one instance where mesh tape (usually I hate the stuff), rather than regular drywall paper tape may help. You should apply it over the cracks (it has an adhesive on one side and comes in colors if you think you need an indicator) and then skim coat and texture it in best you can to the surrounding areas. You should not be able to see the mesh tape when you are done. Again, I think you will find hot mix drywall compound more helpful for this than mixed mud. 










Store the hot mix drywall compound in a rubber maid type container for future use.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

May be a little easier and a little less work But since I can't tell the size of the hole from the photo this may not work. HD sells drywall patches that are 4"x4" 6"x6" and 8"x8" These are a thin piece of alum. that are covered with mesh tape on 1 side and the other side is sticky. No need to build a frame or enlarge the hole, simply stick it on and mud as stated. The piece of alum. gives it the strength. Plus it's cheaper that buying a piece of drywall and a roll of tape you may never need again. But if you go the other route remember you keep your mesh tape in a sealed container or bag. If left out it will lose it's ability to stick on the wall. Oh yea on the patch it is thin enough that it does not make mudding a problem. Good Luck


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Brushjockey said:


> All good questions-
> As you pull off the vinyl, lay it down and use it for a drop cloth.
> Have a bucket to toss gummy paste in, a good sponge and water bucket- a rough scrubbie pad.
> Wet the wall with the sponge and let the water soak into the paste. It is probably clay based paste ( brown stuff) and will take a bit-
> ...


All Good advice. The only thing I would add is to use warm water and vinegar to sponge off the residual paste. I use a 10 inch drywall knife to remove old paste, but smaller will do too. Just take a bit longer. Most of the paste I have run into is wheat Paste, not sure what clay based is, but it must be if you say so.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I bet you run into almost no wheat paste. It would have to be a very old paper ( WWII and prior for the most part) and a very absorbent pulp paper.
Used to strip it all the time until about the later 80's. Then most of it was gone. 
If the paste looks brown, it is clay based. Then there are the clears. And the clears from prepasted.
About all that's been used ( of course with infrequent exceptions) for the last 20 years.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

The paste almost had an orange color to it. Orange brown vs brown orange?? Unless I am color
Blind. I can not confirm the paste type, especially as it is all gone now  - the stuff in the kitchen was a lot harder, and my guess older based upon the wall paper. Even though the kitchen stuff was harder, it came off easier than the living room. I think the age made it come off easier. The house was built in 1948


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

Tips or advice on sanding? Electric sander - belt or hand? Does it make a difference other than size of the sander and thusly how quick we can get the job done? What grit paper?

Thanks


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

No belt to easy to gouge and too agressive.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Hand sander- nothing more unless you've spent the really large money on a pro system.
Get one of those with a handle that takes a screen
After stripping and removing as much -paste- as you can, give it a quick one to knock the nubs left off, prime the whole mess with Gardz. Then fix your hole ( good ideas above) , screen tape your cracks- (first coat sets tape, second fills in and fans out-12" blade-, 3rd coat fans out farther so no hump.). 
Ist coat could be powdered "setting" or "hot" mud, finish with something sandable like Plus 3. Sand with 100 or 120 grit on plus 3.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

So what I read was 100 or 120 grit as my walls are in good shape. How intense do I need to get with sanding that is how long should it take? I am not sure how to better ask that. How much sanding is enough/ the right amount


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

You probably wrote that same time I wrote the above. I'd do as I said, then after repairs prime again with a white primer . Then you will see what needs more work with the mud.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

Brushjockey said:


> Hand sander- nothing more unless you've spent the really large money on a pro system.
> Get one of those with a handle that takes a screen
> After stripping and removing as much -paste- as you can, give it a quick one to knock the nubs left off, prime the whole mess with Gardz. Then fix your hole ( good ideas above) , screen tape your cracks- (first coat sets tape, second fills in and fans out-12" blade-, 3rd coat fans out farther so no hump.).
> Ist coat could be powdered "setting" or "hot" mud, finish with something sandable like Plus 3. Sand with 100 or 120 grit on plus 3.


I flowed you until finish with something sand able like Plus 3


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

It's a premixed bucket of taping compound made By USG.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Brushjockey said:


> I bet you run into almost no wheat paste. It would have to be a very old paper ( WWII and prior for the most part) and a very absorbent pulp paper.
> Used to strip it all the time until about the later 80's. Then most of it was gone.
> If the paste looks brown, it is clay based. Then there are the clears. And the clears from prepasted.
> About all that's been used ( of course with infrequent exceptions) for the last 20 years.


 
all true:thumbsup:


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

I bought a bag of the joint compound that sets in 90 minutes and decided to give it a go last night. I started by mesh taping all the drywall joint cracks as well as the larget crack below the hole in the picture. It seems like these cracks are mostly above the windows. I also 'painters taped' the tops of the windows to protect them of course. I threw a 6x6 metal patch over the large hole seen in the picture. I then proceeded to make my mud.

This first attempt, I made way too much, probably double what I needed. I mixed it directly in the mud pan, and I did not think I had that much water, but I ended up with too much mud. I got the mud to a consistency I wanted, a bit like sour cream is how it was described to me. I was able to apply a first coat to all the cracks in the kitchen as well as the patch I put up. After applying, the mesh tape is visable through the mud, a grey color. I imagine that after the 2nd and 3rd coats, I will no longer be able to see it? It was late, so I did not go any further.

My plan tonight is, go in and sand all the cracks where I added mud, mix more mud (hopefully the correct amount) and finish the living room and start with a second coat in the kitchen.

One question I do have, the mud when wet is a grey color, when it dries, is it fairly light? 
My original plan was the prime everything with gardz and then paint vs applying an additional latex primer and obviously I do not want where I fixed areas to show up. We are using a light baby blue in the kitchen as well as a light green in the living room. I suppose the only real test is to try it.

Overall thoughts?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yes it is grey and yes Gardz is a primer. Remember to feather out farther with each coat. And make your final coat the lightweight in the blue bucket, not hot mud. And it is normal to see the mesh after the first coat. The hot mud will stay pretty gray when dry.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

ToolSeeker said:


> Yes it is grey and yes Gardz is a primer. Remember to feather out farther with each coat. And make your final coat the lightweight in the blue bucket, not hot mud. And it is normal to see the mesh after the first coat. The hot mud will stay pretty gray when dry.


Returned the RX-35 stuff that home depot recommended and went on to their website and order a 5 gallon container of Gardz, odd that they do not have it in store any more but have it on their site. I hope that this will be enough for the three rooms I am working in.

I am planning on doing the second coat of hot mud tonight - I will take some pictures but I do have some questions as I have _never_ done this before.
-When apply the mud I was having a little excess and then spreading that not much further than the mesh tape (first coat) - How 'hard' do I want to spread it out with my taping knife.. That is am I trying to really 'scrape' any extra mud off, or am I just using a little bit of pressure and getting the exessive amount off?
-Does the technique change as additional coats are added, other than feathering out further? 
-How much am I feathering out for a drywall seem? - The ones in the house that are not completely taped are rather small, see pictures on first page.


Any other advice regarding mudding is appreciated. My primary resource has been youtube, but you never know what kind of advice you are getting.

Thanks!!


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I think watching on Utube is better than trying to put into words- why don't you put the links here for which one's you have found helpful.

- 1st coat beds tape- couple of inches past tape, second fills and flattens- maybe 6" past tape. 3 rd (which should be the premixed sandable) 9-12" out.

Dry blade off any ridges from the proceeding coat before applying next coat.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

splintner said:


> Returned the RX-35 stuff that home depot recommended and went on to their website and order a 5 gallon container of Gardz, odd that they do not have it in store any more but have it on their site. I hope that this will be enough for the three rooms I am working in.
> 
> I am planning on doing the second coat of hot mud tonight - I will take some pictures but I do have some questions as I have _never_ done this before.
> -When apply the mud I was having a little excess and then spreading that not much further than the mesh tape (first coat) - How 'hard' do I want to spread it out with my taping knife.. That is am I trying to really 'scrape' any extra mud off, or am I just using a little bit of pressure and getting the exessive amount off?
> ...


 
You will have enough to do the whole house twice:laughing:


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

You can sell the remainder to Gardz deprived neighbors!


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Or we could bring the craft I miss most next to macrame plant hangers back...

Decoupage. 

Gardz would be the perfect primer over anything, even over what's her name's faved liquid plaster/cheap hobby acrylic over fine furniture with no need for prep paint. Annie something stuff. 

Since it offers no protection itself, anymore than raw plaster does, leftover Gardz would be perfect. I find myself actually saving tiny empty bottles that once had sterile saline in them. 

I bet, if I put my mind to it. I could sell Gardz to crafting women for $14.38 a tiny bottle (so I could factor in new internet sales tax to make it an even $15 on their credit cards) if I packaged four bottles with a stir stick! People will buy anything on or shipped with a stick. I would have to rename the stuff though so will be thinking about that. 

Send your extra Gardz to me with a funnel. 

I will send you the address in Maryland or around Cape May, NJ to charge the FedEx bill.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

sdsester said:


> Or we could bring the craft I miss most next to macrame plant hangers back...
> 
> Decoupage.
> 
> ...


 
hey, watch it bub


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

splintner said:


> I bought a bag of the joint compound that sets in 90 minutes


Maybe I missed something here, but why the heck are you messing with setting compound? If you can wait overnight, and you have no particular need for extra strength or cold weather setting, I don't see why you'd mess with it.


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

jeffnc said:


> Maybe I missed something here, but why the heck are you messing with setting compound? If you can wait overnight, and you have no particular need for extra strength or cold weather setting, I don't see why you'd mess with it.


I have no perticular reason other than it was recommended, unless I missed something as well. As far as I understood it, it was recommended that 'hot' mud would be a good choice, back on the first page. Is that not what this is?

At this point - it is already done, am 2 coats in, in the kitchen, and one in the living room.

After the second coat of the compound, do I apply a third of the lightweight, or is it three coats of the setting compound and then 1 coat of lightweight - 4 total?


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## splintner (Mar 19, 2013)

Here is the original issue --




Here are a couple updated pictures of the largest hole and the crack over the kitchen sink. This is after the second coat of compound - still a little wet in the picture.




Here is a couple of the living room - where there are cracks between the drywall above the doors and windows. This was after the first coat.




Thoughts?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

The patch looks good, but on the verticals I would recommend along the edges sand off some of the texture along the edge maybe at least a couple inches. Then apply your pre mixed, that will get rid of that edge of your patch that is so noticeable.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

splintner said:


> I have no perticular reason other than it was recommended, unless I missed something as well. As far as I understood it, it was recommended that 'hot' mud would be a good choice, back on the first page. Is that not what this is?
> 
> At this point - it is already done, am 2 coats in, in the kitchen, and one in the living room.
> 
> After the second coat of the compound, do I apply a third of the lightweight, or is it three coats of the setting compound and then 1 coat of lightweight - 4 total?


I can't find where this is recommended. I mean it's completely fine, but it's a pain and probably overkill in this case. You use it when you don't have time to wait for regular compound to dry. It is a little stronger too, if you need that.

Technically, you only need 1 coat of compound. After that, it's all aesthetic. So if you can do it in 2, 3, or 4 coats is all up to you. But I definitely wouldn't mess with setting compound anymore unless you enjoy it  The final coat can be watered down a bit (stir in a bit of water to your premixed compound). That helps it go on more smoothly around the outside edges. You are just filling in the final little depressions to make it perfectly smooth on this coat.


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