# what should I fill this gap with?



## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

I have a small gap from the edge of the shower pan/riser and the drywall. 









Is it okay to fill this with joint compound or should I cut a scrap hunk and stick it in there too?


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

BTW that stud seen behind the gap is faced out so there is 3.5" of surface area there.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You got a mess there, the sheetrocks cut wrong, I would have shimmed the wall and set the tile board lower, what's up with that wood being even with the side of the tub. That's never going to work.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

That is not a small gap on either the top edge of the tub or the side. 

It looks like you have 1.5" or so to fill on the top of the tub and near 1/2" or more along the side? Your joints are not level and no tape? 

Your photo shows water already seeping into the drywall/greenboard at the base. 

Yikes.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

sdsester said:


> That is not a small gap on either the top edge of the tub or the side.
> 
> It looks like you have 1.5" or so to fill on the top of the tub and near 1/2" or more along the side? Your joints are not level and no tape?
> 
> ...


LOL, not sure what you are seeing there, as there has never been any water in the area yet. This is new construction, there is no tape yet. The wallboard just got put up. So instead of ridicule, why not offer a solution. I can't be impossible for god's sake. Try helping, that is why I posted the question...


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## derf36 (Jul 4, 2009)

The first couple of inches just outside the pan should be considered a wet zone so waterproofing is a must. If left like your pic you will likely have a moldy mess in short order. 

If I was you I would consider removing some of that green drywall, extending the conc backer board, then applying a waterproof membrane. I don't have a good closeup pic of that area but you can get the idea. 

Good luck.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

kerdi can be installed right over drywall. and the way you, derf, have that tile installed, looks pretty darned good.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

it is a shower not a tub. It is on a riser to have room for the p-trap. (using a saniplus system). The board in the pic is Dens shield by GP. The install instructions say to caulk the gap between the DS and the drywall then use your thinset mortar and mesh tape for the seam. Not sure what you are seeing again, but they are flush with each other. Maybe the caulk is throwing you off. The tile we are using will be an 1/8" or so from the shower base top and about an 1/8" onto the drywall/tape seam. Maybe I need to post a link to the install instructions for the Dens Shield???


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## Evstarr (Nov 15, 2011)

Maybe we should take a step back and suggest that the OP submit better pictures to illustrate his situation?
Cause from the one already posted , I have to agree that it looks wet and uneven to me as well....


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

dens shield comes in 32x60in sheets. I used two for a 32x32 shower as seen in the pics. the lower part of the gap is slightly under 1/4". without jumping down my throat, why can't one spray foam the gap, trim and blend with joint compound and tape? it is a tiny gap that the larger part is gonna be covered by tile anyways. Explain.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Before going any further you need to address that base the tubs sitting on. I just see no way that going to work out, it sticks out to far and is even with the side of the tub.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

IT IS NOT A TUB!!! It is a shower base, and it is built to manufacturer specs. Moderator, delete my account. I am sick of the ridicule. You guys are ridiculous. I will take my "hack job" questions elsewhere.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

re-read the entire thread and see who gave the "'tude". Instead of slamming the work, it could have been as simple as, "hey, you are gonna wanna replace that bottom piece of sheetrock or cut a filler strip." Nope, I got, wow, look at the hackjob, tear it all out and start over, there is already water seepage (LOL, impossible)...


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## packer_rich (Jan 16, 2011)

The drywall should cover the flange on the shower base.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

not according to the install instructions


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

Just so it is clear, Dens shield is designed for walls and floors to be a waterproof tile backer, despite what others may have wrote. You can see all about it on Georgia Pacific's site.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

DensShield is better than just cement board, in my opinion, because it has a facings applied and wicks 1/3 as much water in a test; https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:w1AJ6TtrhyUJ:www.gp.com/build/DocumentViewer.aspx?repository%3DBP%26elementid%3D6876+water+wicking+of+Hardie+backer+board&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESgQJOopeO3wUmdj4zlyJEPKDmoWjxfx5yBhv0p_go659HiYh7B7Wq5otHvQZQMt6mYFbx9Qr5ieMsQrG9lgqmlZT5DyC8Wtgw7lAUIKPiHUH_UsVshTK162kZ6HujkunZUHPD96&sig=AHIEtbRqwCDcu8AJUye5WlK87HmnplLw0w

The gap over the shower pan is usually covered by the board above- to within 1/4" or so. Either hollowing out the back of the board (where the plastic lip is) or shim the studs (clear to ceiling) above the lip to extend the board down lower. The smaller gap could be filled with a setting-type compound rather than a drying-type because it is more water resistant.The very small gap left between the plastic/compound should be caulked as movement will happen there due to dis-similar materials.Be sure to use a colored caulking at tile/pan gap, not grout (same reason). Just add a replacement 6" filler of board, slightly longer to take-up the gap, then backer-rod and caulk. The brand of shower pan would help us for their instructions...

Gary


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

it is asb 32x32 corner shower unit


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

On the dens-shiel install instructions, they tell us to "Leave 1⁄8 in. gap
between tub deck or shower pan and DensGuard edge." in step #1 of WALLS; http://www.gp.com/BUILD/product.aspx?pid=6388#faqQ_7869 Download the instructions. Then in step #3, they tell us to caulk that 1/8" gap to the tub/shower *deck*---- the "deck" is confusing, it's the top finished surface, not the lip above that goes behind the board. 

Far as the framing out flush with the pan, either re-frame it smaller, or..... hmmm... open for suggestions....

Maybe install a piece of plastic (as a surround) on the whole face of the framing, tucking the top under the shower pan bottom edge... I don't know what that would look like, open for suggestions, anyone?

Gary


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> open for suggestions, anyone?
> Gary


Nope:thumbup: And I am being nice.

Pull it all down. Bring the board to within 1/8 inch of the tub/shower on all sides.


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## George6488 (Feb 2, 2011)

Please use spray foam, thinset, silly putty, etc. Continue on and good luck.
Please come back for assistance when your attitude improves.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

dwcopple: Please be reminded this is a PUBLIC forum and as such, you will get answers from all sorts of members from all over. The answers you get may or may not be what you wish to hear, but I see no-one giving you anywhere near the "hard time" you seem to think you are getting. Take the comments with a grain of salt, sift through to get the proper answers, and then do it correctly and you'll be fine. Getting upset and demanding the moderators delete your account and then returning 6 or 7 hours later and continuing seems a rather odd request. However, we can delete this entire thread if you wish. Your call.

DM


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