# Sanding hi-gloss finishes vs Zinsser 123?



## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

I have read numerous times to scuff sand hi-gloss finishes before priming and painting, but the Zinsser 123 advertises that it is formulated to stick to glossy surfaces. I have (a ton of) hi-gloss latex paint to cover (want to paint with a satin latex paint) and also have finished wood trim (likely oil-based urethane), chair rail I want to paint. 

If I only had flat surfaces to contend with, such as baseboards, sanding wouldn't be an issue. But with all the grooves and such of the chair rail, window trim, etc, making sure every part of every surface gets sufficiently scuffed seems rather daunting. I am wondering if using the Zinsser 123 will properly prep those surfaces for painting. If it will not, will anything other than sanding?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Those of us that do this professionally don't like to take chances. Sanding generally ensures a good "bite" for primer and paint to stick to. That being said, I have (over the years) skipped the sanding for various reasons......customer didn't want the dust, time constraints, budget constraints, etc. and the work turned out fine. In fact, I have primed window glass with 1-2-3 and topcoated and it is still holding up after many years. So, officially, we can't endorse what you are going to do, but, unofficially and off the record, you should be fine.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Get a med sanding sponge and just give it all a whisk. Really doesn't take much time for lots of insurance. Don't skimp on areas that will get wear and tear- not so much on out of the way spots. But a quickie will make a sounder bond.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

Not to mention it smothes out any bumps you might not know were there.


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## robut (Aug 22, 2007)

*re sanding gloss paint*

I have read the same information on paint cans and heard the same from paint sales people. My home is very old with the old 8" wide molding and white doors.
But I just finished 2 hours ago Using 180 grit on my makita sander and a block of wood I did my stair skirts 17, both sides 4 doors and all the 7" floor molding of a 12 x 13 hall area, this took me about 1 1/2 hours. Just roughed it up. 
I feel that what ever I used to prime, I'm sure it will hold good. Especially if Im using Sherwin Williams paint.

Deck Hand


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

So why are you asking? you already have made up your mind on a plan.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> So why are you asking? you already have made up your mind on a plan.



That's not the person who asked the original question. 


OP, if I have some tongue and groove, with a lot of tongues and grooves, I don't sand every little t & g. I run over it flush. For the most part, the unsanded areas will only pop if banged into. Otherwise it will just lay there if undisturbed.


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## cdaniels (Dec 27, 2012)

I know 1-2-3 says you don't have to sand but do it anyway.Like JS said, don't worry about the grooves.It will bond to glossy surfaces but I like to give any primer a grip by sanding.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

oops right.

BTW- I just did some glossy paneling. I washed, sanded, used tsp substitute and primed with Zin123 plus ( Smart Prime) . Adhesion is still questionable... never too safe.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> oops right.
> 
> BTW- I just did some glossy paneling. I washed, sanded, used tsp substitute and primed with Zin123 plus ( Smart Prime) . Adhesion is still questionable... never too safe.


What type of paneling was this? Was it 4x8 sheetgood stuff or wood panel? I've come across wood panel in older homes that was waxed back in the day. I think you know that, but is it possible that some sort of waxy product was used on what you had?

I did a foyer/stairway job about twenty years ago where there was a lot of the old wood paneled walls and a matching full chippendale handrailing system, all waxed. I tried every possible cleaner, solvent, primer and nothing. I couldn't get anything to stick. I'm staring into the back of the truck one day and see a can of Shieldz Wall Prep. Out of desperation I tried it, bang, it worked. I did a number of adhesion tests and it passed. I stopped by there about 8-10 years later and it was still almost perfect. Don't know why nor how but it worked.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

It's a continuation of that job I've talked about a few times here. Sheet paneling, and in this particular case it was some add on walls and new paneling to match old, so nobody had put any polish on it. That was the kicker.
Sheilds! I don't think tht stuff even sticks to sheetrock or a painted surface well! Who knew..


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

Thanks. I appreciate all the responses. I knew you guys would convince me to sand! I have my work cut out for me. Grrrr. 

Should I just use a Scotch Brite or a sanding block? What grit?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I like the sanding sponges- med grit.


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