# Ball joint



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have a 99 chevy blazer 4x4 v6 and both bottom front ball joints need to be replaced, they have rivets on them, any ideas?????


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## TheBobmanNH (Oct 23, 2012)

Those Blazers hav ea pretty passionate fan base, there's problem a forum devoted to Blazers out there


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

You have to grind the heads off of the rivets, and then knock the shaft of the rivet through to the other side once the head is ground off. Depending on what brand of ball joints you get, they should come with new bolts to bolt the new ones in place.

I had both an '85 and a '91 Blazer (obviously different body style than yours), but that's how I had to do mine.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

So grind heads first then try to knock out the rest with hammer and something sharp ????


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

bostonwindows30 said:


> So grind heads first then try to knock out the rest with hammer and something sharp ????


You want to put the vehicle on jack stands and support the Lower Control Arm with a jack. When the ball joint breaks loose, the force of the suspension spring can seriously hurt or kill you. The jack will be to keep the LCA from swinging down once the ball joint comes free. Once it is free, you can slowly lower the jack to let it down. I don't know your how much experience you have working on cars, so I feel that it's safe that I mention the danger. A spring compressor may be needed to put the spring back in.

Here's a video showing the grinding of the rivets.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5M9w7MFhM4

I also suggest what was said in the 2nd post of this thread.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Boston....having done it a few times.....your getting some real good advice there.....

It's actually real easy...once you dive in....but please follow the above advice....take your time and save the beer for when the project is done and your admiring your work.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Mine is the lower ball joint, the rivets are on top and bottom


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

bostonwindows30 said:


> Mine is the lower ball joint, the rivets are on top and bottom


The lower control arm will be holding the force of the suspension spring.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Should I try to drill it out, first?? And what size drill bit do I need???


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Do you have any friends that have done this before? I'd really hate to see you get injured.

I suggest you watch some Youtube videos over the procedure to get more familiar with it. Just search for "ball joint rivets".


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I am pretty much mechanically inclined I have just rebuilt a 1500 chevy truck everything done myself put about 5k into it, but this ball joint is something new to me, just getting ideas before I tackle this...


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

iirc, you don't have "springs". you have torsion bars.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Fix'n it said:


> iirc, you don't have "springs". you have torsion bars.


The same principal still applies, but won't don't need a spring compressor.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Most torsion bars have an adjustment....hence, crank it all the way down to min to reduce the torsion.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

The shop manual says drill a pilot hole with a 1/8 inch bit in the rivet, then drill out the rivet head with a 1/2 inch bit. Using a low RPM, high torque drill will help.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

So it will drill out a 1\2 " hole for each????


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

No, you'll only drill far enough down to break the head of the rivet loose. Then you can push the rivet out the other side.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Use the 1/2 inch bit to drill out the head. Use a 3-pound hammer and a 3/8 inch punch and drive out the rivet. Last time I did it I used a pair of channel locks to hold the punch. Hit the punch HARD. Thus the channel locks. Mis-hit it and you break your hand..


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

What do u mean by a "punch" is this a certain tool???


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Yes. It is basically a metal rod that "punches" something in or out of a hole. A nail punch sets a nail below the surface of the wood. A machinist's punch will drive out rivets.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Where can I get this???


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Boston....no offense....but if you don't own a punch, much less know what one is....then your way in over your head at this point.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Sorry.. Never had to use a set before,


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I am tacking this sat and looking for ideas this is going to save me a **** load of money mechanics Are way to over priced...


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

ddawg16 said:


> Boston....no offense....but if you don't own a punch, much less know what one is....then your way in over your head at this point.


I completely agree. If you don't know what a punch is, then I find it very hard to believe that you understand the danger behind your torsion bars. Saving money is one thing, but saving your life is more important. How much is the mechanic versus the doctor bill?

Is your name Boston because that is your location, or are you located somewhere else? If you are local to me, I would be glad to show you how to do it. 

I seriously suggest that you find a friend that has done this before to help you out.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I think if I put pressure from a jack on the lower control arm getting hurt won't be a problem, I have seen a few videos on doing it...


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

bostonwindows30 said:


> I think if I put pressure from a jack on the lower control arm getting hurt won't be a problem, I have seen a few videos on doing it...


Ok. I'll take your word for it. Good luck. :thumbsup:

Report back afterwards and let us know how it went, or if you get stuck half way through doing it.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

jack up the control arm/torsion bar, put a jack stand under it and release the jack. that is more stable, particularly if you're going to be pounding on it with a three pound hammer. As long as the suspension is unloaded and supported by the jack stand it will be stable. Good luck. This is not a job for a rookie.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

It will be fun trying though, I find working on vehicles is very rewarding.. Thanks everyone for all the tips, thanks so much I will update everyone when I am done..


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## davido30093 (Jan 1, 2011)

This sounds scary. Please, at least, have someone there with you who can get help if something goes wrong.

Good Luck. Please report back on your success.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Riveted ball joints are a bbb***** to get off with a drill and punch. Most people grind off the rivet head with an angle grinder, then punch, then grind some more. Some rivets need heat, then pounding with a driving hammer. Really, really hard work, particularly if you have a limited swing arc with the hammer. Bolt on ball joints are cake, by comparison.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Bigplanz thank you for all your help, 

Greatly appreciated...


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Use a short, thick punch. Hold it with pliers or channel locks, not your hand, Hit it HARD. Wear eye protection!

Little trick I learned while doing this job on a minivan. Dremel type rotary tools with a grinding/cutting wheel are surprisingly effective on chewing up these rivets. After the angle grinder does most of the work, the rotary tool can get into small spaces and remove a lot of metal. I used a black and decker 2 amp rotary tool and it worked well for its particular task.

Edit to add: if you are going to drill the rivets out you need something like this: 

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

It's huge though, so getting it on the rivet may be an issue.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Also, if you use an angle grinder, take your time and make sure you don't tear up the control arm. 

Eye protection and jack stands are a must.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Yes, keep the grinding wheel on the rivet not the control arm.


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## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Piece of cake, no problems at all, I even changed out tie rods and hub bearing while I was in there, I started with a cold chisel then moved to a air chisel which worked out awesome removing the rivets. Then pounded them out with a punch came right out no problem. One of the easier jobs I have done. Not sure where all the concern about safety came from, if you use your head, then things come easy.. (Come on) thank you guys for all the help, it helped a lot greatly appreciated.. Hope to chat with you guys again when I need some more help.. Thank you


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Congratulations!


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

bostonwindows30 said:


> Piece of cake, no problems at all, I even changed out tie rods and hub bearing while I was in there, I started with a cold chisel then moved to a air chisel which worked out awesome removing the rivets. Then pounded them out with a punch came right out no problem. One of the easier jobs I have done. Not sure where all the concern about safety came from, if you use your head, then things come easy.. (Come on) thank you guys for all the help, it helped a lot greatly appreciated.. Hope to chat with you guys again when I need some more help.. Thank you


Congrats!

No problem at all. The safety concern came from this being the internet, reading text about car repair from someone we didn't know, and then just playing it safe in general because we didn't know that persons mechanical abilities.

You not knowing what a punch was didn't help. :laughing:

Glad you got it fixed, and glad we were of help. :thumbsup:


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