# Need advise about reusing plug from hole saw hole in drywall



## Rav (Dec 7, 2011)

House built in 1930. Garage is directly under one bedroom, and the floor is cold. I've already had the area airsealed as much as possible. The garage ceiling is covered with drywall with a grey textured coating (see pics). After I verify that there is no blown in insulation already in there, my plan is to verify the locations of the 16" OC joists, use a hole saw to drill a hole in each joist bay centered between the joists, and blow in cellulose. My wife is very concerned about how it will look when I'm done. She doesn't want anything like plastic plugs or metal covers. I would like to re-use the drywall plugs removed from each hole, since they already have the grey textured coating already on them. The question is how to put them back in. I was thinking of coating the edge of each disc with caulk and pushing them in to be a flush as I can with the drywall, then apply matching paint to the the seam where the caulk is. Does this sound like a practical way to re-use the plugs? Thanks.


----------



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

It's easier to use tape & joint compound. Then sand or use a sponge & mix the texture with the paint. She'll never know the difference.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

That might work, usually you work a stick in behind the hole so you can screw it in.
If you have access to a pin nailer You could put the stick in and nail it until your caulk sets. You do get close to 1/8" saw cut but you could fill that and maybe finish with a stiff brush and paint.
Or put all the holes in straight rows so ugly can be hidden with a fake beam or???????


----------



## Rav (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> That might work, usually you work a stick in behind the hole so you can screw it in.
> If you have access to a pin nailer You could put the stick in and nail it until your caulk sets. You do get close to 1/8" saw cut but you could fill that and maybe finish with a stiff brush and paint.
> Or put all the holes in straight rows so ugly can be hidden with a fake beam or???????


Thanks. Don't have a pin nailer or any type of power nailer, but maybe I could find a cheap one. Would I drive the pin nails through the drywall in order to secure the stick to the top of the drywall, as well as through the plug to the stick? Or would I need to drill holes and use screws from underneath to secure the stick? And will the caulk itself be enough to fill the saw cut?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Normally you use screws anything else would just be a guess at what might work.





Usually one stick will work just fine and save some screws.


----------



## Rav (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Normally you use screws anything else would just be a guess at what might work.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_HHimzEwk4
> 
> Usually one stick will work just fine and save some screws.


Thanks. And that video is very helpful.


----------



## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

That video is for smooth finish drywall repair. OP has textured coating.

Well, sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do... demo the ceiling and then do it right. Use bat or spray insulation and new drywall. At same time, install new outlet(s) or whatever while it's open. Some texture can't be re-match in repairs.


----------



## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

I am not a drtwall person but that finish looks like an Acoustical product you should check it for Asbestos. If it is soft to the touch would indicate Acoustical.


----------



## Rav (Dec 7, 2011)

ClarenceBauer said:


> I am not a drtwall person but that finish looks like an Acoustical product you should check it for Asbestos. If it is soft to the touch would indicate Acoustical.


Thanks. It's totally hard.


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Rav said:


> Thanks. Don't have a pin nailer or any type of power nailer, but maybe I could find a cheap one. Would I drive the pin nails through the drywall in order to secure the stick to the top of the drywall, as well as through the plug to the stick? Or would I need to drill holes and use screws from underneath to secure the stick? And will the caulk itself be enough to fill the saw cut?



You can just use adhesive to install the backer 'stick' just takes longer as you have to wait for the adhesive to set. No big deal if you aren't in a hurry.
I'm a little skeptical of caulk being enough to make the joints/patches disappear.


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

What kind of floor above? Might be easier to do it from the topside unless it's something like hardwood flooring.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I can't imagine going thru the floor above being easier. I'd make the repairs from the room side - even if there was attic space above.


----------



## Rav (Dec 7, 2011)

mark sr said:


> You can just use adhesive to install the backer 'stick' just takes longer as you have to wait for the adhesive to set. No big deal if you aren't in a hurry.
> I'm a little skeptical of caulk being enough to make the joints/patches disappear.


Interesting idea. I'm definitely not in a hurry, and I'd rather have fewer (or no) screws showing. So, could I also use adhesive to hold the plug to the stick (holding it up temporarily until it dries with some sort of tape)? And, rather than caulk, would a textured patching compound work better?


----------



## Rav (Dec 7, 2011)

firehawkmph said:


> What kind of floor above? Might be easier to do it from the topside unless it's something like hardwood flooring.
> Mike Hawkins


It's hardwood in the room above, plus I'd have to also go through the subfloor, which I wouldn't want to compromise either.


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

It might be difficult to hold the patch piece in place while the adhesive sets. Gravity will hold the wood in place so no mechanical fastener is needed. I'd want a nail/screw to hold the patch piece of drywall.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Normally patches like this are installed with a backer board and screws as others have mentioned. But then finished with drywall tape and skim coated. Without the tape your seams will likely crack revealing all your circle outlines. 
Just something to think about before you spend a whole lot of time trying to make a textured patch disappear.


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

mark sr said:


> I can't imagine going thru the floor above being easier. I'd make the repairs from the room side - even if there was attic space above.


Mark, 
If it were just either a plank subfloor or plywood, they sell tapered plugs for filling the holes. Very simple to do. I'd do that in a heartbeat, in half the time
Mike Hawkins


----------



## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

Actually, blowing cellulose insulation through few holes? I could image how much open gaps/spaces that would have no insulation up there. I have rip walls/ceilings with idea like this and seen how is merely blown in there. It's going to be just like as it was in the first place without insulation (no difference).

Unless were you saying you would do like 5 or even 10 holes per joint row? That would make it like a hundred holes up there... right there would be a nice art... or not? Did you already started this?

I understand the situation (gotta do the best you could do with given circumstance). How are the (inside) walls in the garage?


----------



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

What about re-purposing the holes?

Say you figured where you need to do your blown in insulation, then see if the pattern can be reused or modified.

Let's say you end up with five holes that needs to be at least 4" in diameter. Looking up say one east, one west, one north, one south and one center. Then drill a six inch hole for a set of four recessed lights and one for a smoke/fire/CO alarm. You can even reach your hand up each hole to push the insulation away from the hole to mount your lights if yours is not rated for insulation direct contact.


----------

