# skim coat or PVA primer



## wengang1 (Jan 19, 2010)

I know the risk of soliciting opinions here. Hope it doesn't start a war. I just finished my first successful drywall job (not my first drywall job, but the first successful one!). I was thinking of doing a skim coat in preparation for painting, but I've been reading that some people prefer a PVA primer that is supposed to level off the sanded and unsanded paper and mud. I'm thinking of skipping the skim coat and going with that. Opinions?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

If you have already taped the new drywall--simply prime the walls and ceiling--why would you need to skim coat ?

By the way--there are better primers than PVA---I'll let a painter offer their experience on the brand---PVA is not any painters first choice---


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

To skim coat is hard and will not really serve any purpose. Simply prime, then you need to take a bright light hold it at an angle to the wall this will allow you to imperfections that were not noticeable before priming. Fix these spots re-prime the repairs, then paint. As stated not a fan of PVA primer Zinnser 123 is my usual go to.


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## jburchill (Oct 3, 2010)

Just wondering if you are texturing or no texture? I did no texture in my bathroom, put quick skim coat on mine. I probably didn't need to, but I didn't want any chance of the taping job showing through. Just got done priming last night and looks good to me. If you do go with a skim coat, don't go too thick with it, I think I did two really light coats with mine


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## wengang1 (Jan 19, 2010)

Any specific issue with the PVA (polyvinyl acetate)? THe last time I primed new drywall, I used Valspar high-hiding. I guess it did okay.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

THis will work:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://books.google.com/books?id=lO...nepage&q=prime drywall before texture&f=false

http://bestdrywall.com/files/ReduceCallbacks.pdf

Gary


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

wengang1 said:


> Any specific issue with the PVA (polyvinyl acetate)? THe last time I primed new drywall, I used Valspar high-hiding. I guess it did okay.



I used the SW variety PVA on two new houses this year. On both it did a good job evening out the texture of the walls. On the second one though, the mud all flashed bad through the primer. I finished one wall and the flash came through the finish. Ended up having to re prime it all.

The paint rep said it just happens with certain kinds of mud.


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## wengang1 (Jan 19, 2010)

Toolseeker -- are you saying you put mud on between primer coats to correct any problems? If so, how do you handle sanding? Doesn't that rough up the primer?

Jmayspaint -- I've had that happen before two using Valspar high-hiding. Did it not show up at first, and then show later? I assume I can put two coats of primer, as Toolseeker suggested.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

If some one wants a skim coat I just do a skim coat then prime. Or I prime then hit it with a orange peel then Prime again there is no sanding for orange peel. I ave never had problems doing that. and never had problems with using a PVA primer.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Jmayspaint said:


> I used the SW variety PVA on two new houses this year. On both it did a good job evening out the texture of the walls. On the second one though, the mud all flashed bad through the primer. I finished one wall and the flash came through the finish. Ended up having to re prime it all.
> 
> The paint rep said it just happens with certain kinds of mud.


I can see some one went vertical with the sheet rock.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

PVA primer won't replace a Level 5 finish (skim coat). But then, you don't really need a skim coat if your Level 4 finish is well done.

By the way, toolseeker didn't say 2 coats of primer. He just said spot prime any areas you need to touch up. Any primer that takes 2 coats is not really worth using. How many dang coats are gonna be on that wall by the time we're done?


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Nailbags said:


> I can see some one went vertical with the sheet rock.




What do you mean by that? 

I was following a new Sheetrock crew on this job and there were a few problems. This is the same house I posted about in the 'screw pops' thread. 
I'm curious what they did differently.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

He means they hung the sheets vertically instead of horizontally, which he is opposed to (not sure why, there's nothing inherently wrong with it). But I've looked at your photo and I don't see how you could tell one way or another at this stage.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

jeffnc said:


> He means they hung the sheets vertically instead of horizontally, which he is opposed to (not sure why, there's nothing inherently wrong with it). But I've looked at your photo and I don't see how you could tell one way or another at this stage.


I believe he thinks those vertical stripes are seams. I think they are just the swipe to cover the screw holes.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

mikegp said:


> I believe he thinks those vertical stripes are seams. I think they are just the swipe to cover the screw holes.


Right, but they are only 16" apart! That's some skinny vertical drywall!


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

jeffnc said:


> PVA primer won't replace a Level 5 finish (skim coat). But then, you don't really need a skim coat if your Level 4 finish is well done.
> 
> By the way, toolseeker didn't say 2 coats of primer. He just said spot prime any areas you need to touch up. Any primer that takes 2 coats is not really worth using. How many dang coats are gonna be on that wall by the time we're done?


This why People on the west coast do thing way diffrent then people on the east coast. first off when doing NC instead of puting mold incubator i.e. plastic sheating behind the drywall we are alowed to use PVA Primer as the vapor barrier. so right after the mud and tape is done if a skim coat is called we prime. if a level 4 is called for and most homes on the west coast do a orange peal. it is prime with PVA texture then Prime over the texture. then paint two coats of paint. But by all means skimp all you want to. and as for your snarky remark why I apose hanging sheetrock vertical is on several reasons why 1. going perpendicular to the studs gives the sheetrock more strenght proven fact, also it adds to the walls shear strenght proven fact. 2 when the house settles you don't have popped seams runing the whole length of the wall. But I guess after a year you don't honor call backs. 3 going horizontal I have one and only one seam to do per room. if it is 9' wall I buy 54" wide sheets. less seams less hassle less time. and I have never had problems like what is shown in the photo when primed right.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I sure wish you would speak English, because you're hard as hell to read.

As to my remark being "snarky" - WTF?

You gave a "thanks" to the poster who said you must think those "lines" are drywall seams. So I'll assume that means "yes, that's what I meant." If so, you're nuts. No one would ever hang separate 16" vertical sections of drywall like that.

As to your 3 comments, I believe you're right that drywall is inherently stronger in the horizontal direction. If it makes any noticeable difference, I doubt it but it could be. (Kind of like how 2x6s are stronger than 2x4s, but you don't need that extra strength to make walls.)

As to your 3rd comment, there is nothing inherent about vertical or horizontal hanging that reduces the seams. Obviously an 8x8 wall is going to have 8 feet of tapered seam no matter which way you hang it. You should use whichever method results in the combination of fewest butt joints and shortest total seams. Neither method is going to win out on that one in all cases. Different situations will have different winners. 10-11' ceilings are a good example of avoiding all butt joints with vertical hanging.


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