# how to brace a splitting beam



## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

I have a swingset almost identical to the one shown below and need to repair a splitting beam. The beam originates in the upper level playhouse area, protrudes outwards, and terminates after the top of the rope climb (not the singular rope climb that goes up the inclined plane, but the other one). 

There is a split starting to develop in between where the rope climb sections enter the four holes (that were designed for the rope climb) in the beam. 

What can I use to join the two sections that are starting to split apart? It can't be sharp because I don't want anyone's hand to get cut or scratched. 

It isn't that big of an issue yet but I've discouraged anyone heavier than 40 lbs from using the rope climb until I resolve the problem.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What size is the beam?
Any pressure treated 4 x 4, 4 x 6, 6 x 6 is going to check (split along it's length)
Would have been better to have used ganged up 2 X's.


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## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

i would choose the direction that is most perpindicular to the split, then drill and install galvanized carriage bolts every 14-16" or so. you can counterbore for the washer/nut end so that it is recessed. just prior to squeezing it together i would also squirt some titebond III in for safe measure.


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## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

It's probably a 2x6. I'll measure it today and take close up pics so maybe the solution would be more apparent. I like the carriage bolt idea though I don't have the tool necessary to counterbore the holes.


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## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

Here are some pics of the actual beam on our swingset. In the last one you can see I am using my hand to split the check apart. 

Not sure if using bolts is wise here as the wood seems pretty fragile. I just need it to last a couple more years. Was thinking about using heavy duty zip ties (the 18" length that are about 3/8" wide) every 3-4 inches or so and tightening them down very hard.

Worst case scenario is to just saw off the end that it protuding from the playhouse and eliminate the rope climb altogether.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That design was sure to fail.
A single boards to thin, a line of holes all in a row like that is going to weaken it even more.
Any form of ties is just not going to work.
Remove what's there and replace with two boards screwed together with ACQ approved screws.
Or cut it off before someone gets hurt.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Agree. Replace it. If it was a 4x4 you might have been able to through bolt it.


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## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

Well it wasn't my design. I can thank Creative Playthings, the manufacturer. 

Though unsightly I can't see how a dozen super heavy duty cable straps wouldn't keep the board intact for kids 70-80 lbs max to climb up it.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

Why cant you just replace the board. It will be cheaper than a lot of brackets and braces. Looks like it is attached with four bolts.


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## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

ZTMAN said:


> Why cant you just replace the board. It will be cheaper than a lot of brackets and braces. Looks like it is attached with four bolts.


Well, I guess I really don't want the kids touching PT wood. I do have a can of the stain but I'm not sure how well PT wood will absorb it to match up the color with the rest of the swing set.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

Doesn't need to be PT if that is your concern. Get a good piece of doug fir, paint it up and it should look great. Atleast better than what you have


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No way would I be using untreated wood unless it was Ceder or Cypress.
There's 0 danger to the kids touching pressure treated wood.
It's treated with copper now not like the old stuff treated with formelgahide.
New pressure treated would have to dry out for months before staining, paints not going to stay stuck to it.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Had a creative playthings set for many years, no issues. Depending on the model that you have, it carries anywhere from a five year to a lifetime warranty on that beam. Did you contact mfgr??? Ron


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Thanks for the pictures Zitman. I agree with replacing it is the only good option I can see. Her is a list of woods that are rot resistant. Although i agree pressure treated is not a big deal.

exceptionally rot resistant: black locust, red mulberry, osage orange, and Pacific yew.
Resistant or very resistant: old-growth bald cypress, catalpa, cedar (either eastern or western red cedar), black cherry, chestnut, junipers, honey locust, white oak, old-growth redwood, sassafras, and black walnut.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

The wood looks like it has been there few more than a few years. It's not just cracked it is old and worn and deteriorating. It just needs replacing.


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## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

I contacted Creating Playthings via email. Waiting for a response.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

That can be repaired with screws. To avoid further criticism, PM me and I'll tell you how.


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## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

njitgrad said:


> It's probably a 2x6. I'll measure it today and take close up pics so maybe the solution would be more apparent. I like the carriage bolt idea though I don't have the tool necessary to counterbore the holes.


drill and spade bits? i'd orient the carriage bolt head on top, nut on bottom. 5/16" x 5 1/2" would work fine. i would clamp together for the boring and bolt installation.


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## njitgrad (Jun 14, 2012)

TimPa said:


> drill and spade bits? i'd orient the carriage bolt head on top, nut on bottom. 5/16" x 5 1/2" would work fine. i would clamp together for the boring and bolt installation.


Since the bolts would be vertically installed, how would you cover the counter-bored holes to protect them from rain building up inside? Since this would be a permanent fix, silicone caulking?


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Wait for creative playthings to respond. That said, you wouldn't countersink the TOP of a carriage bolt, it will just draw the square base into the wood and flush the smooth top. You would countersink the BOTTOM where water wouldn't collect....since water doesn't collect in upside down holes. Ron


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## funflyer (Dec 5, 2014)

I would use a piece of 2x6 redwood decking to double up the entire length of that board on the outside and one to triple it up on the inside where the rope knots are, fastened with some zinc coated carriage bolts every 24 inches.


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## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

njitgrad said:


> Since the bolts would be vertically installed, how would you cover the counter-bored holes to protect them from rain building up inside? Since this would be a permanent fix, silicone caulking?


i would place the bolt heads on top, counterbore/nuts on the bottom.


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