# Cabinet removal when under sink supply lines through floor and drain through wall?



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Every sink in my house has the supply lines coming up through the floor and the drain line goes into the wall. House was built about 5 years ago. I'm finally getting around to start planning new bathroom cabinets and wondering what the best way to do this is? I can't lift the cabinet because it would get stuck on the drain. I can't pull it forward because it would get stuck on the supply lines. So unless there's a secret am I just cutting the crap out of cabinet? This worries me with installing a new one. I guess remove the back of a new cabinet completely and install it to the wall? Seems very odd to me.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

How good are you at plumbing?

I always cut and cap the water lines---and sometimes remove the drain---

this will allow you to make a neat install---pictures always help.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Normally there's a drain adaptor where the horizontal drain pipe slips into.
Once the nut and drain pipe is removed, and screws are removed hold the unit to the wall the lower unit should be able to tip forward enough to clear the pipe coming out of the wall.
With the supply shut offs removed you should be able tilt out at the top and lift straight up.
Often times I've seen where the hole in the back of the cabinet is pretty tight around the pipe and the drain adaptor was installed after the base was set in place.
I just use my oscillating saw to make the hole big enough to clear the adaptor.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I'll post some pics and take a closer look. I was assuming the stub coming out off the wall was one solid piece all the way to the pipe in the wall. For one sink on the first floor I can replumb the supply lines from the basement so they are in the wall, but three other sinks don't have access unless I tear open the subfloor.

I don't think I can tilt the cabinet much without making the holes around the drain and supply lines bigger. I've always worked on homes where all three came from the wall. They just complicated a fairly simple task for me. Thanks.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

That is how my house 'was' done.

I'm going to speculate it was a result of a re-pipe. That is how the plumbers can go in and get the job done quick. 

Best I can tell, there is not a 'quality' issue with it, it just takes up limited cabinet space and makes it difficult to remove cabinets. But then again, how often do you replace the lower cabinet?

In my case, being the OCD person I am, I replumbed all of my lines so they are in the wall. While I was at it, I removed all the old galvanized pipe....the sawzall is your friend.
Overall it was not a big deal seeing how I remodeled the kitchen and bath anyway.


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## SHR Plumber (Aug 20, 2013)

This is the normal, quality installation method where I am in Minnesota. Often the kitchen sink is installed on an outside wall and we do not want frozen pipes. We regularly remove and re-install cabinets with this set-up. Cut off the water supply lines and remove the p-trap. The cabinet will come right out and the new one will go right in. Re-connect the supply piping and make your connections to the new sink.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I pulled the escutcheon forward and can see the pipe glued to the other pipe, so it looks like I can remove that piece and lift the cabinet out. I have to decide if I want to cut the supply lines or just make a bigger hole to clear the valves. 

What's the best way to separate pipes with the purple glue on them? Just twist and pull? Do I need to get the glue off before putting a piece back on? Best way to do that? Thanks!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You will not be able to separate the glued fitting--the 'glue' is actually a solvent--and the pipe and fitting are melted together,forever.

Cut above or below the fitting--use a coupling and 'solvent weld' the new pipe and fittings.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

The pipes are glued together in the wall.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

We need a picture--------


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Here's the drain pipe entering the wall.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Supply through bottom.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

mikegp said:


> The pipes are glued together in the wall.



So lets start with the waste pipe- you mentioned purple so I'm going to assume it's white PVC. It normally has a threaded trap adapter where it transitions to the trap. You can cut right behind the adapter, before it enters the wall.
Or you may have what I call an LA trap which is all solvent weld (glued). No trap adapter. Treat this the same way and cut just before the cabinet- leaving enough to glue on a coupling later on.

Water pipe supplies- Your choices are copper, pex, CPVC or galvanized.
I assume copper. Most of the stop valves can be unthreaded via the compression nut or female threads- sometimes they are soldered on though, then you need to cut the risers off below the stops
Same is pretty much true for CPVC (plastic) water supplies
The escutcheons can be snipped off with tin snips


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I see your pictures now :thumbsup:

Cut the pvc drain between the wall and the trap- leave at least 1" in the cabinet if possible.

Cut the copper risers 2" above the cabinet base- use sharkbite caps for temp. purposes so the water can be turned on.

If those measurements don't allow the cabinet to come out- more drastic steps will be needed


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Ok, so I'd cut the smaller pipe that is entering the wall, not the larger pipe in the wall? Then slip a larger pipe over that one inside the cabinet? Will that combo still allow me to connect everything going back to the sink or will the larger diameter pipe screw me over at some point?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I should also mention I have no problem opening up the wall once the cabinet is out. Thanks for the help so far!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

> Ok, so I'd cut the smaller pipe that is entering the wall, not the larger pipe in the wall?


 What I see in your picture is a fitting hub inside the wall- don't cut that. Cut 1" inside the cabinet.
You should then be able to rock the cabinet forward and up- clearing the pipe


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## BlackTiger (Oct 11, 2014)

Usually the floor of a vanity cabinet is several inches off the actual room floor. As long as that's true, you can cut the water supplies completely flush if you choose. Getting them back in might be a pain, but you always have the option to adapt to pex between the subfloor and the vanity bottom, then you'll have flexible lines coming up through your vanity. 

1 1/2" PVC has a hub depth of 3/4" so just make sure there's at least 3/4" of straight pipe from the tee in the wall. The E-Plumber was right to recommend 1". If you cut the water supplies flush, you can choose to leave more of the drain pipe.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Turn your water off for the house first.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Ghostmaker said:


> Turn your water off for the house first.



Always taking the fun out of our job--:laughing:


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