# Best tool for painting baseboard



## rimmi2002 (Oct 2, 2015)

Hi I am installing new baseboard. Its a flat baseboard 5.5" in height with no design on it. I am going to paint it white. It is already primed MDF. I want to paint it before I attach it. 

I ran a few sample paints on it. Tried a roller on it and it leaves behind tiny round spots, tried a brush and it leaves behind brush streak marks. Are there rollers particular for baseboard that leave behind a smooth finish? Or is my only option to get that look is through a LPHV spray gun? A friend has one, but then it will be another tool I'll have to learn to use. Will take more time. Thanks fore the help.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

With kindness: I would guess that you need to learn to paint with a brush.

Thin the paint a tiny bit, don't work in sunlight and accept that any hand applied finish will never be as smooth as the watered down sprayed on primer coat.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I have always used a brush.

For sure, paint it before installing.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Any primed wood or MDF I've ever used looked like it was primed in a dusty room and had to be lightly sanded and degreased to get the hand oils off before painting.
Everyone here gives me a hard time about it but I use a 6" foam hot dog roller.
It comes out as smooth as if it was sprayed with far less clean up time.
Your going to find that just using a flat base like that with no base cap molding is going to be a dust catcher and harder to get to lay flat against the wall.


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

Don't overwork the paint, that can leave brush marks.

Keep in mind that any sprayed coating should be backrolled or brushed to work the paint into the wood, so you're right back where you started except there's overspray everywhere.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Nothing will look as good or go as fast as spraying. Thats why they where invented. A 10 mill roller can make it look almost like it was sprayed as well. For the roller or brush to even close to a spray job will depend on the material your using. Whats the paint your using for your trim.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

And, whatever you do, use good paint. If you're using something cheap, you're bound to get brush/roller marks in the paint finish.


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

stick\shift said:


> Don't overwork the paint, that can leave brush marks.
> 
> Keep in mind that any sprayed coating should be backrolled or brushed to work the paint into the wood, so you're right back where you started except there's overspray everywhere.


Never heard of need to back brush or roll trim which defeats its purpose! Just on a rough surface or sometimes on bare wood.


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## rimmi2002 (Oct 2, 2015)

AlphaWolf said:


> Nothing will look as good or go as fast as spraying. Thats why they where invented. A 10 mill roller can make it look almost like it was sprayed as well. For the roller or brush to even close to a spray job will depend on the material your using. Whats the paint your using for your trim.


I was trying a sample from sherwin williams, if I liked the color, I normally end up buying their higher tier paint. 

I guess I'll try the brush. I just tried a few strokes with my older brush, but I have some nice brushes from Presa. They might do a better job.


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

My secret weapon is Sherwin-Williams' ProClassic. Work in small sections with a brush. It comes out awesome on trim.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

+1 on math monger's recommendation of ProClassic. You may see brush strokes when applying it, but, the leveling features of the paint will make them disappear (almost) and your trim will look like glass (almost). Just keep you trim lying flat so the levelers in the paint do their job........


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

Gymschu said:


> +1 on math monger's recommendation of ProClassic. You may see brush strokes when applying it, but, the leveling features of the paint will make them disappear (almost) and your trim will look like glass (almost). Just keep you trim lying flat so the levelers in the paint do their job........


I've read that if you spray it with the proper tool, it will look like glass!


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## rimmi2002 (Oct 2, 2015)

mathmonger said:


> My secret weapon is Sherwin-Williams' ProClassic. Work in small sections with a brush. It comes out awesome on trim.


Thanks for the input. Is this the item you are talking about? 
Pro Classic

I actually really like the look of the white primer right now. I wish I could just replicate that color with the paint.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

rimmi2002 said:


> http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom.../proclassic_interior_waterbased_acrylicalkyd/
> 
> I actually really like the look of the white primer right now. I wish I could just replicate that color with the paint.


Take a sample of the board to a real paint store for a computer match and buy flat paint.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Colbyt said:


> Take a sample of the board to a real paint store for a computer match and buy flat paint.[/QUOTE]
> 
> for the baseboard??


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

chrisn said:


> Colbyt said:
> 
> 
> > Take a sample of the board to a real paint store for a computer match and buy flat paint.[/QUOTE]
> ...


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## rimmi2002 (Oct 2, 2015)

Colbyt said:


> chrisn said:
> 
> 
> > I would not. But, if he wants the same color then he better match the same sheen level because one affects the other.
> ...


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

rimmi2002 said:


> Colbyt said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah I have read semi gloss is better for trim. But when I put the base primed trim against the walls even though its flat it looks really good. I guess the Sherwin Williams Pro Classic only come in Satin or Semi Gloss. I'll try Satin.
> ...


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

I use the latex ProClassic. It does dry pretty fast and some people will add floetrol to it. I do not. I don't know what would happen if you spring for the hybrid and add floetrol to that. I'd guess the hybrid will dry a little slower anyway, so you don't really need it.


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

@Gymschu Which ProClassic do you use?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

@mathmonger........


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