# Hole Drilling



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

For a large hole there is little choice except a hole saw.

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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Depends how big a hole you need. You can get up to about a 2" forstner, maybe bigger if you search well. If you need much bigger, then yeah, you probably need a hole saw/bit.


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Holes that big, with a hand drill? My vote would be hole saw.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

My vote would be a forstner bit. It chews out the wood in the middle, makes a clean cut on the sides, doesn't jam as much as a spade bit. 

Plus, there is minimal tear out. 

You can get it up to 2 1/8 at Lowe's.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

More Power! said:


> Holes that big, with a hand drill? My vote would be hole saw.


Ayuh,...... Me too,......

Put maskin' tape over the area, start the hole, carefully, til yer into the wood abit, then give 'er 'ell,....

A fresh sharp hole saw can leave a decent edge,.....


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Smallish : Forstner bit or spade bit
Bigger : Hole saw
Even bigger: Jigsaw


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

I would use a hole saw since I have never owned a forstner bit because of their price. They make escutcheons for people like me.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Put a board on the underside, held on with a couple of C-clamps. That way you won't get too much tearout on the underside, and if you use a hole saw the pilot will have something to ride in all the way through. Yeah it's the underside but you don't want to tear it up too bad.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Hole saw. You can get a decently clean cut if you take your time.
Use a sharp bit. People tend to hold on to them for way too long even after their dull.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Hole saw here too. 

Go halfway through from the topside, then get below and using the pilot hole, drill the remainder out.

This also prevents the bottom from tearing out. 


ED


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

Yep, get a brand new Lenox and it'll please you pink. Lenox is top deck stuff and always has been. They had bi-metal blades and hole saws before anyone else heard of them. Still rule the roost. I used them on stainless steel and they outlasted all others 10 to 1.

Lenox Tools


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

If hole sawing on thin material, especially metal, drill a ¼" pilot hole first with a plain twist drill. It will allow you to gently start the hole saw and prevent it gouging outside of its normal cut. I've seen some helpers push so hard to get the pilot bit of the hole saw through the material that when it finally plunged through, the saw hit the material and ran sideways so far it snapped the pilot bit.

One guy was attempting to free hand a 6" hole saw into some ceiling tile, tile in one hand and drill motor in the other. The saw pinched and jerked the Milwaukee Hole Shooter drill sideways and it wrapped his shirt up and made a nasty cut on his belly. We cheered him up by suggesting he was lucky that he didn't get gelded!


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## Theswed82 (Nov 9, 2017)

I was also looking at a Self-Feed Wood Bit. I am thinking of doing the hole saw. Who knew drilling a hole could have so many options.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Theswed82 said:


> I was also looking at a Self-Feed Wood Bit. I am thinking of doing the hole saw. Who knew drilling a hole could have so many options.


Self feed auger yes, speed bit no. 

For big holes the hole saw does a nice job,


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

So, OP, what size hole does your faucet manufacturer suggest?


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

Yes, size matters... what size do you need.

BTW, I caution against using a standard self feeding auger bit on thin wood or any finish product. They have a tendency to feed faster than they can cut and often end up splitting the wood to smithereens. They're good for crude rough-in work on 2X4's and the likes but even then they must be kept sharp.

Be aware that when buying a hole saw, you will need to get an arbor to be able to use it. You may also need an adapter if your drill motor doesn't have a big enough chuck to handle the arbor's shank. Price that all out versus using a brand new sharp spade bit and you may decide differently. The spade bit will do fine if you don't crowd it. It's better on thicker material but can be OK on thin stuff if you take care to feed it slowly.


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

For example, if you can clamp the thin stock to some thicker material the spade bit will work well and leave a very smooth hole even if you feed it like there's no tomorrow. On a cabinet that isn't as easy to do but still possible if you cobble up some support or use a jack or bar clamp, whatever, in some ingenious fashion to hold a 2X under the location.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Theswed82 said:


> I was also looking at a Self-Feed Wood Bit. I am thinking of doing the hole saw. Who knew drilling a hole could have so many options.


That self-feed will make a mess too easily.

Get yourself a kit with various sized hole saws in it, and be prepared for other projects later on.

I have a kit with saws ranging from 1", up to 4.5" , all using the same pilot and arbor.


ED


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## Theswed82 (Nov 9, 2017)

huesmann said:


> So, OP, what size hole does your faucet manufacturer suggest?


Well the sink drain is 1 3/4 and I have yet receive the faucet yet. The standard faucet hole is 1 3/8 but it can vary from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 from different manufacturers and style. I am doing a single hole, one handle faucet.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Indust...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1579383850&sr=1-7




I used these in a variety of sizes.


When sharp they work really good. When dull they are the worst. When you hit a nail or knot, they are dangerous.




Used the with several extensions to drill down, or up, inside a wall through a purlin many times. People were amazed.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

ktkelly said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Indust...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1579383850&sr=1-7
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Nice tool, but it's not meant for the thing he asked about. 

It will make a BIG mess on the surface on the countertop, and then he will have a HECK of a time mounting the faucet nut flush to it. 

ED


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

At $25 for 2 1/8" Forstner bit (Homedepot.com) seems a little steep for a bit a homeowner may never need again. Also, if you're not careful they can grab at the start and really torque a handheld drill.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I just did a quick look at e-bay, for "hole saw kit", there are 3800+ listed there , priced from $10.00, to well over $100.00. 

a good assortment of brands, and qualities.


ED


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

Harbor Freight has a $35 set that's bi-metal and has both size arbors and 10 sizes from 3/4" to 2 1/2". I'd spend the extra for the bi-metal, they are much better. Milwaukee bi-metal will cost twice that much... probably better quality but if you're not working in the trades, the HF set will likely do well enough.


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## Theswed82 (Nov 9, 2017)

surferdude2 said:


> Harbor Freight has a $35 set that's bi-metal and has both size arbors and 10 sizes from 3/4" to 2 1/2". I'd spend the extra for the bi-metal, they are much better. Milwaukee bi-metal will cost twice that much... probably better quality but if you're not working in the trades, the HF set will likely do well enough.


One of the biggest issue I am having is in a kit they will have a size I need like the 1 3/8 for the faucet but then don't have the 1 1/4. Or the have the 1 1/4 but not the 1 3/8. 

Since the faucet hole can vary from 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 including the standard 1 3/8. I was trying to cover all of my bases. 

I have looked at quite of few companies. I would rather pay a little more and get a good sharp hole saw then a cheaper one that will tear and chew rather than provide a nice clean hole. 

I have looked at many brands Lennox, MK Morse. Klein, Dewalt, Milwaukee, and more. Lennox seems a bit too much and MK Morse would run about 60 for 4 hole saws. 

Either way I will have to get a kit and either buy the 1 3/8 or the 1 1/4 separate.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Question: is the surface in question—the "manufactured wood"—something veneered particle board, or like Trex (composite decking)?

FWIW, Delta's spec for the hole is 1-5/16" to 1-1/2" dia. American Standard specs 1-3/8" to 1-1/2".


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

My experience is that most of them work pretty well when they are new, if you're not cutting SS. The better quality bi-metal ones last much longer since the cutting spurs are made from a harder grade of steel and induction welded to the rest of the tool's body, which is made from less brittle steel.

If you don't expect to use them on stainless steel and won't likely ever use them more than a dozen times, the lower priced ones are worth considering.

I had to have Lenox since almost all of my usage was on stainless steel. They were good for about a dozen 2" hole uses before dulling to the point that the work surface overheated from the necessary pressure applied to coax them into longer service. I didn't like their price but knew it was cheaper per hole than using something of lesser quality. The cheap ones smoked on the very first use!

As to the sizes offered, it's generally not that critical for most applications. If making a hole for an electrical conduit fitting entry, it becomes an issue, otherwise not so much.

Electrical fitting entry sizes most often needed are 7/8 1-1/8 1-3/8 1-3/4 2" 2-1/2 3"


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

huesmann said:


> Question: is the surface in question—the "manufactured wood"—something veneered particle board, or like Trex (composite decking)?
> 
> FWIW, Delta's spec for the hole is 1-5/16" to 1-1/2" dia. American Standard specs 1-3/8" to 1-1/2".


They do that as a kindness so you can realize that it isn't all that critical. As you can see, the electrician's hole saw of 1-3/8 would be in their spec. range. lain:


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

surferdude2 said:


> BTW, I caution against using a standard self feeding auger bit on thin wood or any finish product. They have a tendency to feed faster than they can cut and often end up splitting the wood to smithereens.


They sure can. Particularly on the exit.

When I use a self-feeding auger bit on anything about which I care, which is essentially anything other than when I'm blasting holes through studs and the like for wiring, I drill pilots just _slightly_ smaller than the size of the auger to make entry more controllable, then stop about halfway though and come at it from the other side.



lenaitch said:


> At $25 for 2 1/8" Forstner [bits]... if you're not careful they can grab at the start and really torque a handheld drill.


Yup.

I reserve Forstner and brad point drills for when I need really clean holes and use them either in a drill press or when guided by a jig with something like an Oilite bearing to guide them.

E.g.: I'm in the process of building a woodworker's bench. I'll use a Forstner drill in my DP to drill the hole in the jig to accept the bearing. Then I'll use a brad point drill with that jig to drill the bench dog holes.


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

Terms heard repeatedly on job sites... you need a Lenox... you need an Amprobe... you need a "wide opening" crescent... you need a micron vacuum gauge... you need a new phillips screwdriver... can I borrow your _____(whatever)... why do you wear two pouches... you need hollow shank nut drivers... that's an 11/32

and last but most important... we need to go on break! or *let's start picking up!* :biggrin2:


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## Sparky911 (Oct 1, 2019)

Anything but a cutting torch...the drain and faucet will cover any rough cut.


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

What is most important is to have the hole perpendicular to the top of the cabinet as this will make it easier to mount a faucet and having it perpendicular as well. With a hole saw and a pilot bit you can do this without much difficulty even with an inefficient bi-metal saw and a cordless hand drill. I would expect the faucet needs a 1-3/8 size hole for mounting

Forstners are used primarily by wood workers and used in a pilar type drill mounted to a bench. Self-feed drill bits are used primarily for holes in framing and flooring for running plumbing or vacuum lines and take a lot more drill power for the size of hole made as they chew out all the metal. Both of these die an early death if a nail is struck.

The limitation with bi-metal hole saws in wood and engineered wood is that 90% of the drill's power is used to overcome the friction of the inner and outer side walls of the hole saw and not to cut the material. My cordless drills are rated for 2-1/8 inch maximum hole size with a bi-metal hole saw but I have use the TCT type (Blue Boar Mega) to drill 6-1/4" holes in 1-1/8 inch thick plywood subflooring with no problems. 

The difference is the TCT (tungsten carbide teeth) hole cutters have individual teeth that protrude out past the side walls and eliminate the side wall friction. The tungsten carbide used is 8x as hard as high speed steel and so are much more durable when cutting hard materials, including stainless steel. A 2" hole that would take 40 seconds with a bi-metal holes saw takes 3 seconds with a TCT hole cutter. Bi-metal are good for mild steel and plastics but a poor choice for other materials and if you do buy them get the cheapest you can find as all the manufacturers are using the same steel for the side walls and the cutting edge. 

Spade drill bits are great for making small holes in soft woods. They are made from tool steel which is very soft and so the bits dull very quickly if used in plywood, OSB, MDF, fiber cement board, and hardwoods.


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## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

If you need to make a hole in S/S, get a spray bottle of water to keep the S/S from burning and keep the hole saw from wearing out on one hole.


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