# Need Help Chimney/stink pipe flashing leak pics



## bfan781 (Mar 11, 2010)

I recently had a roof replace (4 years ago), I notice a few places leaking recently. When it rains water runs down the chimney and the stink pipe inside the house. One is around the chimney where it is flashed and the other is around the stink pipe. I recently went on the roof to investigate and found the issue on at least the chimney. It appears the flashing goes into the mortar and then they used almost like a calking which has separated and left gaps. From looking at the pictures can u tell me the best way to permantly fix this? How it is supposed to be done/flashed and does everything look correct. The other area, Around the stink pipe, I can't seem to find where it is coming in from? What are some normal culprit areas? Does this looked flashed correctly? Doing some work and want to address and correct the problem for good. The roofers are no where to be found and other than these areas they did a great job. The roof is also a very very shallow pitch. I have attached some pictures. Thanks for any and all advice and fixes you can offer. Can't seem to attach pictures, may have to wait till I get home, but I'll try again


----------



## bfan781 (Mar 11, 2010)

let me try this again...


----------



## SleepnZJ (Sep 6, 2007)

First off I am not a roofer but there's a few things that I see that might need to be addressed. 

The boot around the stink pipe looks like it was installed the wrong way, I believe the hump in the metal between the flat metal and the rubber boot has to be facing up the roof. 

As for the chimney it looks like they ground out the grout and installed lead step flashing and apron but I can't see if (or possibly how) the step flashing is woven into the shingles going up the side. I'm also not sure what caulk they used to seal the grout joint, but looks like they might not have used the right stuff and not have put enough of it in the joint. If you are looking to re do the caulking in the grout you can look into a line of sealants called geocel. I believe Geocel 2300 is what I would use.

If the step flashing is not woven in with the shingles I'm not sure how that could be repaired without pulling out the flashing and redoing it.


----------



## BamBamm5144 (Oct 6, 2009)

The stink pipe looks like it is not the problem. It is done fine.

The shingles along the side of the chimney look like they were not properly flashed. It looks like they just laid the shingles on top of the lead, instead of using proper step flashing. From the pictures, that would be my first guess.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Like BamBam said. Only thing wrong with pipe is it's cut too tight. 1/2" play would have been more irght, but it's OK.
No step flashing visible on chimney.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

"other is around the stink pipe. " Look closely to see if the rubber is seperated from the metal of the collar. or not tight to the pipe.
A third look tells me the water is getting in where the laminated shingle parts form a 'step' on the first shingle that covered pipe metal. Cut them back about 1/2" or so to eliminate that issue.


----------



## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

SleepnZJ said:


> First off I am not a roofer but there's a few things that I see that might need to be addressed.
> 
> The boot around the stink pipe looks like it was installed the wrong way, I believe the hump in the metal between the flat metal and the rubber boot has to be facing up the roof.
> 
> ...


The pipe boot is installed in the proper direction. The "hump" as you call it is meant to be in front to accommodate differing roof pitches.

The chimney flashings were never completed. Im glad to see them using lead wedges to anchor the flashings, but they must be installed properly and the joint either filled with mortar, or at absolute minimum FILLED with caulk and tooled so that the caulk mates with the masonry. 

Now... caulk on the lead seam is doing you no good and will fail shortly. This joint should be welded.

And I agree that there is no step flashing visible, so I cannot say if it is there or not.


----------



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

AaronB said:


> And I agree that there is no step flashing visible, so I cannot say if it is there or not.


Looks to me like they may have done the one piece flashing trick, where they run the counter long out on the roof instead of installing separate base flashings. I don't like that detail, but I've seen it work. I suspect the poorly filled reglet and would try fiiling it properly before messing with anything else.

Those neoprene gasket WV boots are my #1 service call problem We replace 200-300 a year, most of which are less than 3 years old. I'd replace it with a lead or copper boot.


----------



## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2008)

*Chimney flashing*

That chimney is a mess. Looks like peel and stick. One piece apron and sides. Joint not sealed.

Try looking here for 


_links not working - Moderator_


----------



## bfan781 (Mar 11, 2010)

Sorry for not getting back here quicker, I have been dealing with other rennonvations. The weather is looking good around here this weekend and I want to address this issue. There has been a lot of good feedback given and I want to try and fix this correctly and permantly without totalling starting from scratch unless I really have too. 
So just to clarify, what should I attempt to do first to resolve the leakage? As far as the chimney flashing, I won't for certain know until I get up there, but someone mentioned that it maybe a one peice trick at can work, but may not be the best method. The gap where the sealant /caulking is is quite large and that appears to at least be the main culprit. Should I at least first start wtth digging that out, at filling with mortar? Do I need to set the lead wedge in a little to have the mortar cover? 
As far as the pipe, someone mentioned, "A third look tells me the water is getting in where the laminated shingle parts form a 'step' on the first shingle that covered pipe metal. Cut them back about 1/2" or so to eliminate that issue", does that mean cut the rounded asphalt shingles back? Little confused on that.
BAsically I want a good solid fix without nessarily ripping out and re-doing. Anymore input would be great!! 
__________________


----------



## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2008)

Hmmm, those links should work. Let's try again.

http://www.chimneyflashing.info/

http://www.chimneyflashing.info/Copper-Chimney-Flashing.html

Without starting from scratch, you could just clean the existing joint of old caulk and re fill.
Take a look at the vent pipe flashing next to the chimney on the second link.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

"A third look tells me the water is getting in where the laminated shingle parts form a 'step' on the first shingle that covered pipe metal. Cut them back about 1/2" or so to eliminate that issue", does that mean cut the rounded asphalt shingles back? Little confused on that.
BAsically I want a good solid fix without nessarily ripping out and re-doing. Anymore input would be great!!"

Larger item, but note the relief around the pipe. When shinglesa re cut tight, water does get under them and looks for an exit.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power Vent Installation.htm


----------

