# Utility Trailer Gate Mods



## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

I have a 5' x 8' utliity trailer with a 3500lb axle. It's really an ideal size for a trailer, it can hold a lot and still isn't large enough to be a hassle. 

But one thing I do with it is always a hassle, moving dirt. You need to shovel it in, then you need to shovel it out. Turning this landscape-style trailer into a dumping trailer would be a massive fabrication project way beyond my abilities. BUT here's the great idea I had: What about a LoadHandler for a pickup! Those are those hand crank operated tarps you can use to crank out a whole load of dirt in a minute. They have great reviews, apparently they work very well. 

But here is the problem, and the point of this post: My trailer's gate is permanent. As far as I can tell, there's no way to remove the gate, which you would need to do to use one of those dumping tarps. So this is what I need, a way to replace the pins or the hinges with some kind of removable contraption so that I can take the gate off this trailer when needed.

Now would be a good time to post a picture of the hinges but I'm not at the house right now and unfortunately none of the pics of my trailer show the hinges. My initial thought was seeing if there were a way to hammer out the permanent pins and then replace with a big saftey pin style pin. 

I've never done anything along these lines before so any advice would be appreciated.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

Here are some pics of the trailer itself, I'll try to get some closeups of the hinges themselves over the next few days.


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## PaulDay (Oct 28, 2020)

I have the same trailer.

The hinges are welded in place. It's made of steel pipe and steel rod, the steel pipes being the hinge part.

Grind the hinge off one side to be able to work, either on the gate or on the trailer frame. Grind off the end of the hinges where the pins are welded. I don't think there's enough room to just grind off the pin welds while the gate is in place.

Replace the pins with hardened steel rod that will fit in the hinge holes, that are about an 1" longer then needed. Drill holes in the ends and use axel style pins to hold them in place.

Have the one hinge piece welded back on.

Repaint everything to prevent rust. Grease the pins with a good axel grease.

Just remove the pins in the future to use the trailer without the gate being in the way.

Have a good day.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... I could be wrong, but I once had a wagon like that, with welded hinges,.....
The trick was, that when ya open the gate, the whole gate could be pryed/ pounded off to one side,.....
To make it easier to put back on, I cut one of the hinge pins 'bout 1/4" shorter, so you only had to align the pins one at a time, rather than both at the same time,.....


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

They work best on a slipper truck bed. The trailer is to low for the length of the handle, I have not see one with a ratchet handle. 
Loadhandler 2'nd try - YouTube


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> The trailer is to low for the length of the handle, I have not see one with a ratchet handle.


It could most likely be modified to attach a 1/2" drive socket or extension...

Fabricating a bracket to attach it to the tailgate (about 2' from the hinge) would take some work, and you'd need a wedge-shaped platform about 5' wide, about 2' long, with a height that varies from 1/2" to about 5" (or whatever the height of the roll of fabric is when it's wrapped around the spindle), to put between the hinge and the spindle to keep the material up to the level of the roll of fabric on the spindle.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

It actually looks pretty easy. He just made a shorter handle so it clears the ground. The hard part will be making the gate removable but once I do that, this should work well. I'm thinking I could buy a harbor freight 1/2" socket wrench and literally weld the handle of the load handler to that. Then weld a socket to the bar. Then I could just snap it in place and crank. Ratcheting if needed, or going all the way around if possible. I do plan on doing an axle flip at some point which will help. This looks like it just might work! And for less than a single day rental of an actual dumping trailer.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

If you use that ramp tailgate, then that's good. I have a cut down double axle horse trailer but it had one of those long tailgates, too. I had my helper cut it down and refabricate it to the height of the bed, which is approximately 2'. I found the long tailgate too much to lower at the dump and it was always in the way. Having a shorter gate sure makes removing heavy trash, etc without that hassle. I never drive anything on the trailer, and I have ramps should it ever become necessary.


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## SARG (Dec 28, 2020)

Just to mention.... The trailers are fabricated so the gate "balances" the trailer. When the gate / ramp is off the tongue end becomes very heavy.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

SARG said:


> Just to mention.... The trailers are fabricated so the gate "balances" the trailer. When the gate / ramp is off the tongue end becomes very heavy.


Yup which is why the easiest way to move a trailer like mine by hand, is to have someone jump on to the back of the trailer and hand on to the gate. Suddenly the tongue weight is all of about 10 lbs


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

SARG said:


> When the gate / ramp is off the tongue end becomes very heavy.


Obviously, "very heavy" is a relative term, I'd guess the tailgate weighs 75# or less. The OP would know better. If the tailgate is opened until it's level, that's holding half the weight. Shortening it will take about that much off the tongue, and the gate weighs twice that. so consider that when deciding whether to make it removable. 

Shortening it and adding a kickstand, or the tailgate arms/cables from a pickup tailgate, would be less strenuous for use later.

On some trailers like that, the axle position is adjustable, so you can reduce the tongue weight by moving the axle forward a few inches.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

My intent is to only remove it while dumping so it shouldn't have any noticeable effect.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

l008com said:


> My intent is to only remove it while dumping so it shouldn't have any noticeable effect.


Yeah, the extra tongue weight doesn't matter if you don't unhitch it. That should work fine, as long as it's not too heavy/cumbersome to move around and get back on. You may want to consider adding a couple of strategically placed lugs that the hinge side can rest on while you slide it back on the hinges, otherwise reattaching it likely becomes a 2 person operation.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

HotRodx10 said:


> Yeah, the extra tongue weight doesn't matter if you don't unhitch it. That should work fine, as long as it's not too heavy/cumbersome to move around and get back on. You may want to consider adding a couple of strategically placed lugs that the hinge side can rest on while you slide it back on the hinges, otherwise reattaching it likely becomes a 2 person operation.


Or off set the hinges a little so you can start one side at a time.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> Or off set the hinges a little so you can start one side at a time.


That's a good idea, too. Doing both should make it fairly easy to reinstall by yourself.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

Ok I took some pics today. So it looks like the pin of the hinge has a big flat head on one side, and a grease zerk on the other. What I can't tell is how it's all held together? For the amount of use I give this trailer, I don't think I really need a greasable hinge, I think a loser fitting safety pin like I mentioned before would be plenty sufficient. Or even just a nut and bolt.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

They will slide apart.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

I was hoping there was a way I could disassemble without grinding the hinge off the trailer itself.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

l008com said:


> I was hoping there was a way I could disassemble without grinding the hinge off the trailer itself.


 That would be nice thought but.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

Well if I have to grind off the hinges anyway, there must be some new weld-on hinges I can buy that are designed to be taken apart right? I'm pretty sure some trailers like mine do have removable gates.


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## PaulDay (Oct 28, 2020)

l008com said:


> Well if I have to grind off the hinges anyway, there must be some new weld-on hinges I can buy that are designed to be taken apart right? I'm pretty sure some trailers like mine do have removable gates.


Please reread post #3.

The hinge pins face out from each other, preventing it from coming apart without grinding at least one piece off.

Have a good day.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

I installed a load handler on a little 4x8 that I keep at our camp. Use it to haul dirt and shale.

Had to do some modifications but it works great. The handle to unload is too long unless you are dumping off a ledge. I did JB welded a socket in the end of the tube on the load handler. I had the thought that my Milwaukee impact wrench would unload it , but not enough torque, even with 600 ft/lbs of torque. Ended up using a 1/2 inch ratchet with a two foot piece of pipe to unload.

My trailer is 25 years old so the mat on the load handler tended to snag on the PT deck boards. I stapled a piece of vinyl flooring on the deck to reduce friction.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

I have a similar 6x12 H&H trailer. The tailgate latches on my trailer allow the gate to fold up and past vertical, all the way inside so the gate will lay flat on the floor. I've used that feature often to pull it down the interstate, the mesh tailgate catches a lot of wind. I've often hauled short items that fit up front, or 14'-16' lumber on it with the tailgate folded in.

Looks like your gate is also made so that it could be folded over to the floor. Would be easy to just make a false floor using 2x4's and plywood to fit on top of the tailgate. Then you could just fold the gate in and drop the false floor in on top of it when you want to haul dirt or rock. That would also raise the deck height a couple inches, making a little more room to crank the handle. You could even extend your false floor slightly past the end of the trailer if needed to make room for the crank assembly.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

l008com said:


> Well if I have to grind off the hinges anyway, there must be some new weld-on hinges I can buy that are designed to be taken apart right? I'm pretty sure some trailers like mine do have removable gates.


If you remove one hinge and turn it around it will be removable.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> If you remove one hinge and turn it around it will be removable.


I can't find any good replacement hinges so I guess I'll just be doing this instead. Not the best solution but it should work in the end.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

Took a while but I finally finished my axle flip mod, which included stripping my axle down to bare metal, priming it, and painting it. None of which you can see in the photo, but you can see how much higher it sits. I haven't started on making the gate removable yet, that's next.


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

My new trailer, when empty, allows for the ramp gate to fold forward until it is flat on the bed. I regularly take it to my farm, a 50 mile interstate trip, empty one way. Gate up 15 mpg, folded flat 22 mpg.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

Old Thomas said:


> My new trailer, when empty, allows for the ramp gate to fold forward until it is flat on the bed. I regularly take it to my farm, a 50 mile interstate trip, empty one way. Gate up 15 mpg, folded flat 22 mpg.


Mine does this too. But I want to remove it so I can use an easy-unloader to dump dirt out of it. But mine does fold forward and it saves you plenty of MPG on the highway, but boy is it loud  If I were going far, I'd probably strap it down so it does't bounce.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

I did a mild mod on my trailer just a short time ago.... not to the gate though. The gate works fine. I drive a jeep with a winch on the front, and I was toying with the idea of throwing a winch on the trailer so I could drag the heavier stuff up (had a full sized hot tub that had to be moved).

But instead of adding a complete new winch I just cut the trailer siding so I could use the jeep winch. I just run the cable under the jeep to the back and up into the trailer. That 2" steel pipe below the U cutout is welded to the trailer itself redirects the pull. It's a 10,500LB winch so it pulled the hot tub up into the trailer without issue.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

when I hauled dirt or gravel on my trailer, I first put down a couple of layers of Tyvek House Wrap.
then when the weight was within pulling limits, me and the helper just pulled out the rest by hand.
(try it - you'll like it). [the first layer of wrap stayed on the trailer - the 2nd top piece was pulled out].


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

John Smith_inFL said:


> when I hauled dirt or gravel on my trailer, I first put down a couple of layers of Tyvek House Wrap.
> then when the weight was within pulling limits, me and the helper just pulled out the rest by hand.
> (try it - you'll like it). [the first layer of wrap stayed on the trailer - the 2nd top piece was pulled out].


I bought the Harbor Freight unloader and put down a sheet of hardboard (Masonite) in the truck bed. Worked really well. I unloaded 1.3 tons of gravel without lifting a shovel. I did reinforce the pipe/tube the mat wraps around with a #6 rebar. I might have to try the house wrap under it next time.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

HotRodx10 said:


> I bought the Harbor Freight unloader and put down a sheet of hardboard (Masonite) in the truck bed. Worked really well. I unloaded 1.3 tons of gravel without lifting a shovel. I did reinforce the pipe/tube the mat wraps around with a #6 rebar. I might have to try the house wrap under it next time.


That's exactly my plan. But how did you deal with the gate being in the way?


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

l008com said:


> That's exactly my plan. But how did you deal with the gate being in the way?


Well, the last time I did it, I was using a full-size pickup with louvered tailgate, so I just laid a piece of 3/4" particle board (I had it lying around) on the tailgate. With a trailer, it might be a little trickier. First, you'd have to make sure you have clearance to turn the handle without it hitting the ground. If you don't, all is not lost; it just means you'll need to make a modification to the end of the tube to fit a ratchet handle. My plan for my trailer is to use a 1/2" drive socket that fits over tube and drill it for a pin or bolt.(Edit: as I thought about it just now, I don't see any reason I couldn't use a socket that fits inside the tube)

If you leave the tailgate on, you'll probably need to block the tailgate up with something solid, so it's about even with the deck of the trailer (so it's a straight line along the deck of the trailer and across the tailgate. If you can lower the front of the trailer, that will help with the ground clearance. The tailgate can be lower than the deck (you lose ground clearance, though), but it can't be very much higher than the deck, or the tailgate will fold up when you start trying to unload.

If the slots in the unloader mounting brackets are wide enough to fit over the frame of the trailer, you could slide it onto the back of the trailer. agin, you'll have to check the clearance necessary to turn the handle.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I mentioned in an earlier post that I had my helper cut down my tailgate. I had a tall one like what you guys have, and I am certain they help loading things, but for my purposes it got in the way, and I have ramps if I need them. Here's how it looks now with the modification. And C&D waste loaded on it  I filled the sides with corrugated galvanized roofing , which I screwed to the sides. It was an old single horse trailer. Pulls great.


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## l008com (Mar 7, 2015)

I was going to try to flip one of the hinges but my welder friend actually died in an unexpected car accident the other day. Total shock, he was younger than me, and doesn't appear to have been drunk. Looks like he just lost control of his sports car. So sad for his young kids. But that leaves me with much more limited options for welding. I'll have to give this some more thought and see what I can pull off with minimal welding.


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