# Suggestion for sagging drywall in bathroom



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Someone really messed that one up.
Is it also just 1/2"?
It needed to be 5/8.
If it's 1/2" I'd take it down and start over.
You also need some blocking to mount the to.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

You just need to nail some cross pieces…….2 x 4's nailed perpendicular to the joists so you have something to nail the drywall to…….that's about all you can do unless you want to tear out and start over.

Also nail a piece over there onto the joist so you can install screws where it's sag ging.


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks, Joe -- the drywall is 1/2". Bathroom is small -- 5 feet x 8 feet. I'm a very new 'DIY'er' -- I wanted to avoid replacing the drywall if I can - if I felt more confident, I'd replace it -- guess I'd just buy 5/8" drywall pieces and cut them to 48+ inches long (a little longer to fit at the end of the span) and just make sure that I screwed them in along the perpendicular joists (and not just the end of the span like it is now). 

If I didn't go that way, I'm wondering if this is less work -- this 2-minute video shows using 'battens' (wood) to fix a sagging drywall (but the details for a very new DIY'er like myself are missing -- e.g. what kind of tool should I use when screwing in the 'heavy gauge roof screws' so that enough force will result in the drywall being pushed up, what kind of heavy gauge roof screws, etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv3JXRu6MVM


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You use course drywall screws not roofing screws.
You would need figure out a way to push that drywall back up in order to add the screws.
You can try pushing up with your head while standing on a ladder to see if that's enough to draw it tight. If you just try to use screws to pull it up when it's that far off the screw heads will just pull through the sheetrock because by now it's developed a set.
You would use a cordless drill, impact drill driver or real drywall gun to drive the screws.
Not going to happen just using a screw driver.


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks, Gymschu -- if I were to nail 2x4s (do I nail them or screw them in?) what exactly would use (tool, nail / screw, how do I do screw it in -- what type of tool would I need to make sure I get enough force to push the drywall up? --- do I use a metal L-shaped bracket to connect the two?). Also, I didn't understand your last statement about 'Also nail a piece over there onto the joist so you can install screws where it's sagging' -- 

I attached 2 pics -- one is the same pic w/ some block shapes added to mimic the 2x4s that I will be adding. The 2nd pic is a pic from a different angle -- it shows the 2 joists separated by 24" on center and I added the 2 block shapes to mimic adding the 2x4s you're recommending.


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks - Joe - -btw, I'm in Monmouth County, NJ. I think the guy in the video rec'ed roofing screws only as part of the solution of using 'battens' for pushing up the drywall (and once the drywall was moved up and he screwed the drywall into the joists, he removed the battens and roofing screws and fixed the drywall). 

I have a drill -- I'd need to just change the bit to a 'screwdriver' bit (e.g. a phillips #2) for the drywall screws but ... that's once I've figured out how to push up the drywall. 

Thx -


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You could just use fender washers on the drywall screws to spread out the load.
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00056672/k-G3062184?utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Just my opinion but a 2" drop in a 5x8 bathroom is a lot. I do not think it will pull up that much, unless there are big gaps somewhere. Around the edge or between the sheets. If it's tight and you try to pull it up that much something has to crack.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Our the paper has to wrinkle.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You have little to loose by trying---add the blocking---and use a 2x4 with a T-nailed to the top---cut about the height needed to push the drywall back up--

Tap it in place as a temporary jack----this will spread the pressure over a wider area and make the sheet less likely to crack.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I agree with Mike, see if you can push it up first. If not, make a cut across the middle (lengthwise- to relieve the bow) with a osc. tool/hand drywall key-hole saw (support both sides); screw it back up tight and tape the joint with paper tape. It may be special 1/2" "ceiling drywall" rated for 24" on center framing or (if in the last few years) special 1/2" "lightweight" drywall- approved for 24" oc and 2.2# insulation- same as 5/8" drywall; footnote "d"; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm

In that case you would not need the blocking.

http://www.americangypsum.com/data/products/LightRocsubmittalsheet541.pdf and other manufacturers.

Gary


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thx for all the replies. Gary -- the house was built in 1997 and no replacement of the drywall was done so ... I'm assuming it's not the lightweight drywall.

I tried to push it up and it won't budge. I'm now thinking of just having the drywall replaced by someone with experience. My thought is to put in 5/8" Purple drywall (Purple b/c of the extra moisture resistance and 5/8" for the 24" joist distance -- albeit, based on Gary's link, lightweight 1/2" would be ok for 24" joist distance). 

Thanks, again -- I'm currently looking for some handymen in the area (Monmouth Cty, NJ) for a price on the labor + drywall.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Your insulation is lacking to meet today's minimum code for your location- about 12" high; http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/index.jsp?state=New%20Jersey

R-38; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/sites/default/files/Compressing fiberglass.JPG

May want to air seal the attic before laying new batts. Think about heating bills/cost/value as $$$ is usually the deciding factor; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...VjgAkW8XzKgQkGg&bvm=bv.44442042,d.cGE&cad=rja

As there is no signs of mold on the paper-backed drywall now, why worry (purple board), just add some good oil based primer paint for the vapor retarder missing on the fiberglass batt facing paper. Be sure the fan works and runs 20 min. after showers. Have the installer caulk air/seal around the fan housing. The ducting really should have insulation/vapor barrier on it as well. Just slip existing in this; http://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-F...e-Duct-R6-Silver-Jacket-F6IFD6X300/100396935#

Gary


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If you are going to have a pro do it they will probably not use the lite weight drywall as most that I know don't like it. Yes it's lighter but the disadvantages are high shoulders that make it hard to mud, it's hard to score and snap, it dings real easy, and most of it isn't fire rated.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

metazone said:


> Thanks, Gymschu -- if I were to nail 2x4s (do I nail them or screw them in?) what exactly would use (tool, nail / screw, how do I do screw it in --


To connect the new 2x4s, carpenters use nails, but I normally use screws, and I recommend you do the same. You have more control, no pounding to loosen anything in your drywall, and you can unscrew it and restart if you make a mistake. Predrill a hole angled down from the top of the 2x4 so it goes through the 2x4 and into the joist. You don't have to predrill into the joist. Just predrill so that the screw will start easily and at the right angle. Put the 2x4 in position, then screw it in. I would use 3" screws, such as this sort of thing (doesn't have to be these exactly) Do not use drywall screws.
Decking screws would work. The star drive will help keep the bit in while driving.
http://shehfung.en.alibaba.com/product/256689001-209528929/Wood_Screw_Bugle_Head_4_Nibs.html


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thx , Gary -- I'm going to consider adding more insulation - dunno if just adding another set of batt drywall on top of existing is ok. Note: I found it interesting that there are other kinds of material used for insulation -- e.g. this company sells wool-based: http://www.oregonshepherd.com/ -- 

ToolSeeker - thanks -- I shared your opinion (re: given the drop of > 2", there's a strong potential for issues if I try to fix the sagging vs replacing the drywall) w/ my out-of-state friend & he thought the same thing (of course, Mike & Gary are right w/ the suggestion of first trying some relatively simple solutions... but all of this was more than I anticipated esp. given that all I had set out to do was to install a bathroom fan ...). I'm going to get some prices. I'm looking under the 'handymen' category b/c it looks like many market themselves with these drywall services so ...


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks, Jeff -- I'm going to keep these notes -


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

By the way, when predrilling the 2x4, if you try to drill at an angle, the drill bit will slip out. Drill straight down for about 1/4". Then take the bit out and drill at an angle. That little hole will hold the bit in place for the angled drill.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

"Thx , Gary -- I'm going to consider adding more insulation - dunno if just adding another set of batt drywall on top of existing is ok. Note: I found it interesting that there are other kinds of material used for insulation -- e.g. this company sells wool-based: http://www.oregonshepherd.com/ --"----------- depends on how much you are willing to spend... adding batts perpendicular to the joists is fine if unfaced and cavities are filled to joist tops previously, no voids for air pockets. The 1/2" drywall would work for your bathroom application; just not over a garage/lv sp. ceiling or laundry/furnace room ceilings per code restrictions. 

Gary


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## metazone (Dec 5, 2013)

Thanks, again, for the advice and info --

Update: 
I thought about doing the ceiling replacement myself but lacked the confidence and some of the tools (and didn't have anyone to help me -- e.g. for holding the drywall in place). Instead, I researched contractors / handymen. Here were the prices (all based on 1/2" Purple Drywall except where noted):
1. Franchise 1 (A rating on Angie's List): ceiling (paint-ready): $750 (includes material); $250 to paint
2. Franchise 2 (A rating on Angie's List): ceiling (paint-ready): $780 (does not include material and the estimate was open-ended -- it was based on hourly work); no estimate for paint
3. Independent Business (A rating on Angie's List) - includes going to a supply store for 5/8" drywall b/c of 24" joist spacing: ceiling - $1280; paint - $325; Remove waste: $125
4. Small independent business (not on Angie's List): $450 for ceiling - 1 day, leave in almost-paint-ready condition (minor sanding needed by me).

I went with #4 and did the rest myself. #4 also added molding to avoid having to paint the walls from the spackle (same price). He also threw in the fan install but ... didn't have the lips of the fan housing flush w/ the drywall (instead, mounted it on top of the drywall. I removed the install and re-did it (included having to cut a small piece of drywall to expose the screws and then replacing it with a patch - easy b/c the rectangle was entirely under the joist).

It's done but ... need some duct work that I'm doing now.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You got a fair price---and saved the tradesman a half of a day driving out to sand the new work---

I'm glad that worked out for you----keep his number--sounds like someone you might have a need for in the future---


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Thanks for the update we really like to here the outcome.


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