# Help w/ refinishing hardwood stairs...!!!



## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

I renovated one of my mom's bedrooms not to long ago. I tore up all the carpet in the upstairs and that includes the stairs to the main level and uncovered these great looking hardwood stairs that just had a ************ load of staples in them and paint splatter on the edges. I'd like to refinish these. What would the steps be to do so. I do not want to use a industrial grade edger as that thing eats way to much wood way to quick. I don't have a problem using elbow grease with a sander..

Sand grit? 30 80 120...???
Orbital, square, belt or profile sander?
Should i use a stain that are ready has the protectant in it and if not, what do i use after i stain and with what and SO ON AND SON ON... Stuff like this is what I'd like to get answered...

Any suggestions are helpful... <img>


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

An orbital sander will be your best bet. A belt sander is too big and bulky and won't get into the tight spots of course. Start with a rough grit, of course. A 60 grit abrasive should work pretty well. If not then go down one more. A card scraper will get into the tight corners.

After you get the finish material removed then start working back up through the grits up to about 120. I don't like to go any smoother than 120. It starts to close the pores too much then it won't stain properly. 

Be sure to completely remove all the scratches. If you don't then your stain will just magnify them.

Let the stain dry for at least 4 hours, I prefer overnight. Then you will want to start to coat with a good oil or water based polyurethane. I've come to like the water based better because you can two coat in one day and walk on it within 6 hours.


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

Thanks my friend... One question. What is a card scraper or is there another name for that?


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

It's kinda like a paint scraper without the handle. Here's a link to one.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=824


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## Minnesota Gal (May 26, 2007)

Oh, I'm so glad you asked this question - I'm facing the exact same problem in my house. I've got pink paint slopped all over my stairs (from the former owner) and have been hoping to refinish them as well


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## Big Mackey (May 18, 2007)

Just make sure you sand and scrape with the grain of the wood, If you don't, you will have a hell of a time getting all the scratches out.

Also it's best to use a sander with a bag, Take the bag off and tape the hose of a shop-vac to it. You might want to plug the vacuum into a different outlet than the sander so you don't pop a fuse.


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## Minnesota Gal (May 26, 2007)

I spent some time working on my stairs this weekend. I got about 2 partially sanded, with many more to come. One thing I noticed was that the sandpaper tended to get gummed up, and if I didn't switch it out, the gummy stuff transferred to the stairs, and then I needed to sand it off again. Does anyone know why this is happeneing? It's old wood that I'm sanding (80 year old white pine). I noticed this when I was refinishing other trim in my house as well. It ends up meaning that I go through a LOT of sanding pads that have some gumminess on them, I end up tossing them well before it looks like they're worn out. Thoughts? Advice?

Liz


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

I've sanded stuff like that before and you get those little bumps of paint here and there. I've taken a knife and picked them off. Takes a little more time but saves on paper.


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## gshock (May 30, 2007)

Minnesota Gal said:


> It's old wood that I'm sanding (80 year old white pine). Liz


I did some refinishing on doors once that resulted in the same build up on the sandpaper as you're describing. It sounds like varnish or shellac of somekind. Friction from the sander heats up the old finish and makes it gum up and stick to the sandpaper and the floor. You might want to try a chemical stripper, then just use a finer grit paper for sanding. That way you don't spend too much time sanding and you won't remove as much wood.

Just a thought...


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Read this thread and follow my scraper recommendations.

http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=7253


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

Alright.. I had to go and rent an edger for these steps. They are solid oak and the finish is on there good. I now have the swirl marks the edger left behind. Do I need to get EVERY LITTLE scatch out, or can there be some small ones left behind?
Also, at the top of the steps, they turn 90 degrees, how do I get in that corner for the step that is at a 45 degree angle?


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

You do not have to get all the scratches out if you are not staining. If you are staining then, yes, you will have to get the scratches out. The stain will make them stand out like a sore thumb.

As far as getting into corners just be creative and try several different techniques that have been described above. The scraper would be the best bet.


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

No, I'm not staining. I'm just going to use a water base sealer to bring the natural color then going to poly it.. When applying poly, easier or better to use a brush, or should I just use the lambs wool applicator?


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

I would use a brush.


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

*Almost Done!!*

I went with the Lambs wool app on both. Tomorrow I go back for the final coat. Now, I put 2 coats on today, tomorrow though, do I use a 220 grit and lightly sand and wash dust away before I do the third and final coat? Anymore than 3 coats is just for your own piece of mind right? There will be very light traffic on these steps due to my mom being the only one that will be going up and down on these..


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

I like to put on three coats then let it dry for a few days before I sand and put the final coat on. 220 sandpaper will be just fine. Use a microfiber cloth dampened with water to wipe them down before last coat.

Be sure and post a pic when your done.


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

*Pics!!!!*

Take a look. The stringers still need to be primed and painted, but my mom is gonna do that herself. They were painted, then it seems as though they put a gel stain on the paint to TRY and match the stairs. HORRIBLE! I just sanded them down so there were no bumps and such..
Tell me what you think!!


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Sorry it took me so long to get in here but they look great.


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## joewho (Nov 1, 2006)

Cabinet scrapers are good for removing most of the finish. Same as the scraper mentioned earlier. Basically, just a piece of steel with a knurled edge.

Corners and crossgrain sanding can be tricky. The corners need special attention because they may look sanded but when you put the stain on you see a line.

Sanding crossgrain can be done, just use a lighter paper crossgrain until the finish is removed. Then use a heavier paper, with the grain, to erase the sanding marks from the lighter paper. 

Water base poly is very thin compared to oil poly. It also bubbles very easily.

Quick dry poly dries very fast, thicker coating, tones out nicely over time and is a lot smoother to the touch. 

Do it yourselfers may like the stain,seal,finish all-in-one product (minwax).
This product gums up quick, not as much working time and much less forgiving than straight oil stain. Too me the look is more un-natural than straight stain and seperate finish. 

Hope this help.


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## greenerndn3 (Jul 4, 2008)

*nice stairs*

i have been hesitant to attempt my stairs, and just happened across this thread. thank you--i think i'm prepared to tackle the job, now.


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## heatherevel (Mar 16, 2009)

*refinishing stairs*

I too am in the process of refinishing my hardwood stairs. It's a lot of work, but I' m ready to do it. Thanks to the posts. It has helped a lot. Thanks Big Dave! I will post before and after pictures.


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## bujaly (May 21, 2007)

heatherevel said:


> I too am in the process of refinishing my hardwood stairs. It's a lot of work, but I' m ready to do it. Thanks to the posts. It has helped a lot. Thanks Big Dave! I will post before and after pictures.


heather, couple of things..
1. Make sure your heat or ac is off.. You do not want any dust getting in there and being blown all around.
2. Seal off the work area as best as you can, because the dust will find a way out.
3. Be prepared to be covered in wood dust..
Good luck.. 
And be prepared to enjoy those steps once your done.!!!


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## heatherevel (Mar 16, 2009)

*refinishing stairs*

I have old upright registers so that won't be an issue and being from NY it is still quite cold, so no AC right now! I will seal off the area and I am prepared to be covered in dust! I own an old Sears Robuck home, built in 1908. I have much refinishing to do as there has been a lot of paint added over the years! Thanks for the advice! All of my floors have to be done too. The house was forclosed on a few years back and the previous owners allowed the fridge to defrost and water ruined the hardwood as well as the pipes that burst. I will be asking many questions along the way. Thanks again.

Heather


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