# Code: Maximum Length for Faucet Supply Lines?



## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

30" by oregon residential plumbing code


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

should have a stop within 24 inches.


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

Crap. I put a bar into my basement but the way things worked out the supply stub outs are a little farther away from the sink than I'd like. So, picture a five foot wide counter top with a sink in the middle but the stub outs under the counter are all the way to the side. Basically I need to go 30 inches horizontal just to be at the center of the counter where I want the sink and then still have to go up.

Could I do a normal compression valve at the stub out, a 24" supply line, an inline valve, and then another 24" supply line to reach the faucet?


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Why not just remove the valves, and extend the water lines to where you need them?


two shutoff valves on a fixture supply is pretty hokey...... :huh:


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

No, just put in the proper plumbing. Adding line like that isn't complicated. Better to do it right than to half-ass it. Unattended water leaks can do tremendous damage, why bother risking it?


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

It could be a possibility but it would require a bunch of right angle turns for the copper. 

Here's a basic diagram.
http://www.patrickdaley.com/sink.png

Actual picture (counter).
http://www.patrickdaley.com/sink1.JPG

Actual picture (rough in).
http://www.patrickdaley.com/sink2.jpg

Might just have to get the plumber back in here. Location of the stub outs wasn't his fault; I had him do it before I actually had the bar built. It sounds like the consensus is to just run more copper to the middle of the counter? A 48" flexible supply line would definitely get me to where I need to be....


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Hmmm, is the sink drain vented properly?

One additional reason for 'doing it right' is stuff tends to just get CRAMMED into undercounter cabinets. You wouldn't want someone to jam something down in there and have it break loose a braided line. Better to have hard pipe, securely mounted so it won't be put at risk. Yeah, hindsight and all that, but think of the regret you'd have if the lines got broken later!


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

Everything is roughed in to code; the sink is vented. The trap arm length will meet code. 

I almost think flexible supply lines would be more secure under there since I could easily tuck them up and in the back so they're completely out of the way. If I have to run copper through the bottom of the cabinet I think that will be way more of a pain. Oh well code is code.....

So for those of you plumbers out there if I called you up and you came over and saw this situation you would right angle some copper to the back of the cabinet and then right angle it again and run it over 30" to the middle where the sink is and connect the supply lines from that point?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

buckybadger said:


> So for those of you plumbers out there if I called you up and you came over and saw this situation you would right angle some copper to the back of the cabinet and then right angle it again and run it over 30" to the middle where the sink is and connect the supply lines from that point?


No, I'd get you to sign a work order first :laughing:- and then prefab the pieces you described. That way I wouldn't burn up your cabinet.
Another approach- lower the pipes down to the floor into the toe kick and come up under the sink. But you'd have to pull the cabinet


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

By the way I'm guessing code must allow an exemption for dishwasher and laundry lines because there's no way that 30" is practical in those applications most of the time.....


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

buckybadger said:


> By the way I'm guessing code must allow an exemption for dishwasher and laundry lines because there's no way that 30" is practical in those applications most of the time.....


Yep

Water heaters are only allowed 24"

Dishwashers are allowed 72"

Cant remember washing machine hoses though........ :huh: Maybe 48....


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

Interesting...I got some conflicting advice from another plumber who said there isn't a limit in code to the length of faucet supply lines. I've been going through the code here in Minnesota and can't find anything. 

Does anyone have a link to where in code it specifies a max length?


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

The question isn't just whether code allows for it or not. The bigger question is whether it's the right part for the job.... it isn't. Just run some new copper and avoid having to deal with problems with the hoses years down the road. It's one thing to have a hose connection in a place you're going to see regularly. But to use hoses inside a cabinet in an infrequently used place like a basement bar seems like a tremendously bad idea. If a hose starts leaking on your toilet, washer or dishwasher they're likely to be in places you'd notice the leak pretty quickly. But stuffed under a cabinet? You're probably not going to detect the leaks until well after damage is done. 

Just solder in some new copper and move on.


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

Maybe I wasn't totally clear in my initial post and if that's the case I apologize.

It's a foregone conclusion that there will be some form of IPS supply line in there. That's going to be a given for nearly ANY faucet connection. The fact that the lines are inside a cabinet is no different than how the faucet in my kitchen or bathroom is connected.

The stop valve is already going to be located inside the cabinet in question. The issue is whether I'm violating code by running an IPS line for more than 30". Again, this will all be taking place inside the cabinet. (And when I say cabinet we're talking about a standard 60" wide kitchen base cabinet.)

Ultimately, is running a 48" IPS versus a 30" IPS going to put me at any greater risk of catastrophic damage or failure? I doubt it. 

Soldering inside the cabinet just to add 18" of copper so I can stay at 30" on the IPS seems like a pain. I'll do it if it's code, but I have yet to find a reference anywhere that mandates a maximum of 30" on an IPS to faucet connection.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

buckybadger said:


> Soldering inside the cabinet just to add 18" of copper so I can stay at 30" on the IPS seems like a pain.


What makes you think it'd only be 18" of added copper? Run it the right way and use as short a hose as possible. The point here is get the hard copper to a point where you're not going to have problems when things are crammed into the cabinets. Not to just move it a tiny bit so you can 'get away with' some hose.

Do it right and move on.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I'm not aware of this limitation in my local code. And thats the key- local code, or what your AHJ will say.
But, if it was me- I'd hard pipe them to the sink


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

2 copper supply tubes, two 3/8 compression couplings and some 3/8 od copper tubing and clip it to the back of the cabinet up high so it doesn't sag.


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

I'm just going to run IPS from where the stub outs are now. I don't want that much copper running horizontal through the cabinet. IMHO there's more potential for catastrophe having things bang into the rigid copper than the IPS, which will at least have some play and won't be as bothered by slight movement. I'll just make sure the IPS is tucked up and back in the cabinet.

Thanks for all the opinions.


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## buckybadger (Aug 4, 2009)

After talking with the AHJ they did specify 30" as the maximum and gave me the code reference. Guess I'll be running some copper....


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