# Framing a half wall for a bar



## QueenL (Apr 1, 2008)

We framed a half wall this weekend for our bar. It is shaped like half of a hexagon. Only one end is anchored to a wall. We are concerned that is is so wobbly. The studs are anchored tightly into the concrete but the top of the wall jiggles quite a bit when we shake it. Is this normal? We don't want to drywall and add granite CT and then have it topple under the weight. Any ideas on how we can secure it better?


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

It should be stable. if it racks a little across the face that will stop when drywall is applied, if it can move forward back then it should be secured better.

Screws can help a lot. Construction adhesive can help too. If both have been used then a piece of steel angle iron may be required. This can be 'let in' to the inside of the wall and also set into the concrete so it will not show through the finish materials (floor and wall).


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## skymaster (Jun 6, 2007)

Did you only go with a single top plate? also you might want to screw and glue plywood to both faces then sheetrock. you can also do solid blocking within the bays, diagonal bracing etc. How did you anchor to the concrete?


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## perpetual98 (Nov 2, 2007)

Could you provide a picture? It sounds wobbly because it's narrow, but that's just how it's sounding in my head. Maybe it just needs to be beefed up a bit? It should be fairly rock solid. Sheetrock should help a bit, but will only prevent movement in 1 plane. If it's moving the other way, it won't help.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

One option (that is after the fact), is to install the open end of the wall as you would a railing newell post. In other words; open the floor to gain access to a floor joist. Instead of using a 2x4 on the end, use a 4x4 fir post. Notch it and install with lag screws to a floor joist, or build out the side of the closest floor joist to solidly lag screw the "wall post" into. This process of installation reduces vertical movement to almost zero.


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## QueenL (Apr 1, 2008)

skymaster said:


> Did you only go with a single top plate? also you might want to screw and glue plywood to both faces then sheetrock. you can also do solid blocking within the bays, diagonal bracing etc. How did you anchor to the concrete?


We did do a single top plate. Does that add much to the stability? We thought that the only significance of doubling was for drywall. I'm afraid you will have to use lamens terms for me. I haven't a clue about the "blocking within the bays" or "diagnonal bracing. We used what I think are concrete nails. (The contractor at Home Depot suggested them) We predrilled holes through the wood and about 2" into the concrete and hammered a jumbo nail with expander thingees on them. (Like I said I'm a rookie. ) The bottom plates wont budge. So we know they are anchored in tight its the top quarter that we can push slightly.


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## perpetual98 (Nov 2, 2007)

Does it look something like this?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Another, less laborious option is to install a double top plate. The 2nd layer doubling, or "capping-over" the 1st plate. I like Skymaster's idea of using Plywood on the side. We have done that too, when fixing other people's poor framing. You don't necessarily have to do both sides. One side may help enough. Screws and glue are good advice too.

As mentioned, you could use 5/8" Sheetrock. It add's rigidity (as it does with steel framing).


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

It just occured to me that this is for a bar. If there is a counter top section going on, "it" can stablize the wall, as well.


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## QueenL (Apr 1, 2008)

perpetual98 said:


> Does it look something like this?


 
Exactly! The right side is anchored to a wall the left end is not.


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## QueenL (Apr 1, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> It just occured to me that this is for a bar. If there is a counter top section going on, "it" can stablize the wall, as well.


 
Will the counter stabilize even if we don't do cabinetry?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

QueenL said:


> Will the counter stabilize even if we don't do cabinetry?


Yes, it should.


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## darylbrands (Mar 25, 2008)

I like the methods described.

The 4 x 4 method described is a new idea to me I really like.

We have also made a custom metal T with a bottom L flange welded to it attaching to the joists below. While it looks impressive... it all goes back to the adhesive and fasteners attaching it. In most cases it isn't worth the large amount of time and effort... the exception might be if the wall has a lot of glass panels where the plywood and cut in bracing can't be applied.

All of this sounds like it is not really an issue here - As stated - the top attached is securing your wall.


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