# Drywall around tub surround



## Dun Write (Oct 20, 2021)

I had a tub surround installed by a contractor, and he also installed the surrounding drywall. On the top of the tub surround he did not install the drywall over the lip. Instead, he installed the drywall up to the lip of the tub surround, then covered the lip with mud (normal joint compound). After five days, the mud has not hardened. It is like putty and there are large cracks where it meets the top of the surround.

 

In the next picture, the bigger gap on the left side is from me removing the mud from where it cracked to the top of the surround. This is when I started questioning whether this was done correctly.

 

In my experience and in watching videos, I have always seen drywall coming over the lip of the surround whether it's on the side or above. 

In my contractor's words after I followed up with him about my concern:


> You shouldn't cover the flange with drywall. Drywall can absorb any sitting water on the top of the wall surround. Mudding is the proper way to do it. It was pretty thick, so durabond would have been better. If you would like, I can remove the mud and fill it with durabond and tape it.


Can I please get some feedback and confirmation on how the drywall should be installed in this area?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The drywall is fine like that, I would remover the mud and install 6" tile above and beside the tub. 








How to Install a Bathtub: Install an Acrylic Tub and Tub Surround (DIY) (familyhandyman.com)


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

It's typical to stop the drywall at the flange... but why he didn't use durabond in the first place is beyond me. Durabond is water resistant. Regular joint compound is not.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Is that considered a wet area though?


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## Dun Write (Oct 20, 2021)

Nealtw said:


> The drywall is fine like that, I would remover the mud and install 6" tile above





huesmann said:


> Is that considered a wet area though?


I could understand droplets of water bouncing up there off someone’s head.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

huesmann said:


> Is that considered a wet area though


No, because water doesn't directly hit it. Just like the backsplash in your kitchen isn't considered a wet area. As long as the top is caulked and the drywall is primed and painted with a latex enamel [any sheen] it has plenty of moisture protection.


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

It often will eventually get wet from the top of the tub down. Either the caulk will fail, (on older surrounds that needed caulk) or from a shower curtain or glass door will leak a little water out which follows the top of the tub down.

It could get wet from overly sloppy cleaning, however.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

I mean, slathering drywall mud on thick is probably not the way to go, but as long as you caulk the joint and paint it up with several coats, I don't see a problem.


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## turbo4 (Jan 30, 2021)

This area does get a lot of moisture from steam and at times form water droplets on the wall. Mine has moisture resistant drywall a coat of paint and a silicone bead between the drywall and the top of the surround. 10yrs no problems.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

huesmann said:


> I mean, slathering drywall mud on thick is probably not the way to go, but as long as you caulk the joint and paint it up with several coats, I don't see a problem.


NOTE the OP stated installed by a contractor.
A contractor should follow recommended manufactures written instructions.
Premixed compound Quote "Not subject to moisture"
Setting Compound Quote " Is moisture resistant" , " Not to be applied over moist surfaces or surfaces likely to become moist , on below-grade surfaces, or on other surfaces subject to moisture exposure"
I guest it would have to be determined if the tub area is subject to moisture.


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## Dun Write (Oct 20, 2021)

It seems to me the entire bathroom is subject to moisture from steam. He originally installed regular drywall above the surround and I had him redo it with green board. At any rate, I agreed to just have him do durabond over the lip. Thanks for the feedback.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I don't have any greenboard in my bath rm - all regular drywall. It's only been 3-4 yrs but all my drywall is in fine shape including above the shower stall. All the drywall was primed and 2 coats of zinnser's perma white on the ceiling and some cheap eggshell on the walls. I only have 7' ceilings but do have/use an exhaust fan.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Like mark I see little point in "green" drywall. That seems to assume moisture will be reaching your drywall, and if that's a situation you're going to allow, then you've already lost the game. You need adequate ventilation in you bathroom, and adequate protection of the drywall, either by paint and caulk, or whatever. In no case should moisture actually be getting to the bare drywall.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

turbo4 said:


> Mine has moisture resistant drywall a coat of paint and a silicone bead between the drywall and the top of the surround. 10yrs no problems.


FYI silicone is usually not a good choice against a painted surface because silicone is not paintable. Silicone does not adhere well to bare drywall, so if you use silicone the wall should be painted first. Normally, you caulk first with a paintable caulk and then paint over the caulk to give you a clean edge.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

jeffnc said:


> Normally, you caulk first with a paintable caulk and then paint over the caulk to give you a clean edge.


and if it's bare drywall you prime and then caulk prior to applying the finish paint.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

I like this idea.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Mike Milam said:


> I like this idea.


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## preston_6834 (5 mo ago)

jeffnc said:


> Like mark I see little point in "green" drywall. That seems to assume moisture will be reaching your drywall, and if that's a situation you're going to allow, then you've already lost the game. You need adequate ventilation in you bathroom, and adequate protection of the drywall, either by paint and caulk, or whatever. In no case should moisture actually be getting to the bare drywall.


I always use green board in areas that will be humid or moist. Not because I expect water to come in contact with it. It's more like why I buy insurance. Not because I expect to be in an accident but just in case. I agree that you shouldn't expect water to come in contact with your drywall, but if it somehow does, the green stuff has mold inhibitors that the regular stuff doesn't. If the worst does happen and water does come in contact, the green stuff will hold up and if it doesn't it will hopefully not be covered with black mold when I have to pull it out. For me, that peace of mind is worth the few bucks extra that the green stuff costs for small spaces like bathrooms.


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