# How can I get a good finish on this?



## PatrickGSR94 (Mar 2, 2011)

I removed my old door casing during my kitchen floor tile project so I could install a different style of casing. The new casing is the same width as the old.










The issue is that even though I cut the caulk between the old casing and the wall, there was still a bead of caulk left on the drywall, which was pretty much impossible to remove without tearing the drywall paper at least somewhat. I had the same issue in my bathroom and my son's bedroom, where I also replaced door casing in the same fashion.

This door is particularly bad because after removing the casing, I found that the door frame was installed with no shims whatsoever. So after shimming and truing up the frame, I ended up with about 1/2" more gap between the back of the frame and the wall stud. Installing the trim with the same reveal on the frame (had to use the same reveal to have enough room to shoot brads along the edge) left about 1/2" or more of the unfinished and/or torn-face drywall exposed.

In the other rooms I tried using spackle compound and sanding it, but always ended up with a noticeable difference in texture between the originally painted areas and the spackled areas after applying the new paint. Does anyone have any suggestions about what to do here? I plan on replacing all the door casing in the entire rest of the house as time and money allows, and I'd like to have a nice wall finish around them if I can get it.


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## rapidfit (Dec 8, 2010)

I took a sealing product for drywall, I cut off all the rough paper and smoothed as best I could. Applied the sealer, sanded a little after it dried. Smoothed w/drywall paste, let dry and the sanded and finished to match. Where the paper is split in the middle it may be best to remove down to solid gypsum and finish. Getting a matching texture will take a while. You may have to past and sand several times Next time use a product called rapidfit from Lowe's and save mucho headache and time. The original casing stays on. No chance of tearing up the wall and causing the door to shift, and you can put the trash in a lunch bag.........

link for similar product http://www.supplyall.ca/index.php?option=com_flippingbook&book_id=2&Itemid=77


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## PatrickGSR94 (Mar 2, 2011)

Interesting product, but IMHO the best way is to remove old trim and put up the new trim in the traditional way. Plus I have already cased 6 doors in the house with this casing (Howe and Baby Howe profiles which I really like), which your product does not come in. I also prefer the look of traditional mitered and coped corners, and not those tall corner blocks, and only rosettes on certain styles. IMHO the corner blocks say to me "I took the easy way out instead of taking the time and care to do it the proper way".

Thanks for the suggestions, though. Would you recommend I use actual drywall mud instead of spackling paste? I'm using DAP CrackSHOT High Performance Indoor/Outdoor Spackling Paste, if that makes any difference.


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## rapidfit (Dec 8, 2010)

Pic of finished door for info. I think I just used drywall paste, seemed to work just fine for me. Biggest problem I had in doing the remove and replace was sanding the existing reveals so they looked nice. The buildup of paint and caulk was time consuming and messy to remove. When I started using the overly I cut my time down to around 30 minutes/door.

good luck


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