# Furniture painting - how to get that professional semi-gloss look?



## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Wrong primer.. wrong paint. And professional coatings for furniture would not be paint, but lacquer. If you insist on paint.. Use an enamel underbody as the primer, sand. Then two coats of oil or enamel semi-gloss. Sand between coats. Latex cannot be sanded since it is too soft.


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## DyerWolf (May 5, 2007)

I so totally did not want to hear that. This is what the paint store recommended.

Anyone else know whether I can save this project?


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## DyerWolf (May 5, 2007)

Okay, here's the problem; I've already started the project, sprayed on the primer & bought the red paint.

So, I feel like I'm committed to finishing - at least making the best showing I can...

You're right - the latex primer doesn't want to sand (it pilled up on me) - but I got it smoothed out.

If I get another sunny day, I plan to spray on the red. 

So two questions: 
Should I be using a finer grit paper than 220 (i.e. steel wool?);

and

Presuming my final coat of paint looks good - would it be smart to finish it with a coat (or two) of polyurethane?


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

Bob Mariani said:


> Wrong primer.. wrong paint. And professional coatings for furniture would not be paint, but lacquer. If you insist on paint.. Use an enamel underbody as the primer, sand. Then two coats of oil or enamel semi-gloss. Sand between coats. Latex cannot be sanded since it is too soft.


Exactly. I would do everything you can to get that primer off of there. That stuff is really nothing more than drywall primer. That stuff will start peeling off the wood in a few years. The professional furniture finishers will use a lacquer base and many coats of clear on top of that. At the very least get some high gloss lacquer or oil based paint.


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## DyerWolf (May 5, 2007)

Matthew and Bob - thanks for your responses. Okay, so after some research I'm following your advice & sanding the project back down again (I was really disheartened to learn I had a bad plan _AFTER_ I sprayed on a coat of latex primer...) - then borrowing my father-in-law's Turbineaire HVLP system to apply an oil based paint or lacquer.

So, based on this - will you guys give me a good primer on the best way to proceed? What paint or lacquer I should use (I'm not sure I trust my local paint store any more...) and what steps to take?

Thanks in advance!


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

If you can find lacquer then use this. Post Catalyzed Nitrocellulose lacquer is the best to use and can be made in any color you want. Check with local cabinet finishers to see if someone can give you what you need. Sand with 220 grit in prep for coatings. Do not use a tack cloth, but clean with the air from you sprayer. Some lacquer are self sealing, others need a sealer. Two sealer coats and two top coats. Scuff sand (this means lightly) between each coat. This helps the new coat have a place to stick.

If using oil: Use an enamel underbody paint. this fills in the wood, seals and is very easy to sand to a perfect finish. Use something like Benjamin Moore's Impero paint for the finish coats. Thin the first coat 10% with mineral spirits. Dust bunnies can be removed in the final coat with a light hand sanding using 1000 grit wet paper.


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## DyerWolf (May 5, 2007)

Since I'm new to spraying - am I less likely to mess up paint rather than lacquer? Or are they both about equal?

I've a pretty deft hand with most things - but noticed I didn't do the best spray job with the primer (although I do have a fairly good idea of where I went wrong...)


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Both will have issues if done incorrectly. Read up more on spray methods and problems. Especially the problems, since learning what causes them helps to spray correctly. Paint will be more forgiving but will yield a much less professional job which will not last as long as lacquer. Paint will require days between coats. Lacquer will allow the sealers and top coats all done in the same day with about 30 minutes time between sanding and the next coat. Lacquer's top coats will bond with the other coats and one new coat can "fix" problems with the other coats. Paint will only add more thickness to the film and each coat must be correct. Practice first. Post back your results and I can direct you as to what is wrong.


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## Christy-Spencer (Apr 29, 2009)

*Spray Paint works for me !!*

I can take just about anything to my garage and spray paint it to get a clean smooth coat. 

It kind looks like glass.

The trick is the right primer and then a thin coat of paint, then wait a day and hit it again with a thicker coat.

This makes me want to paint something !!!

:sorcerer:


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## CindyBechtel (Jun 24, 2012)

Christy-Spencer said:


> I can take just about anything to my garage and spray paint it to get a clean smooth coat.
> 
> It kind looks like glass.
> 
> ...


What primer and paint do you recommend to get a smooth coat? Also, do you use a clear coat?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Cindy---that thread is three years old---

If you have future finishing projects---learn about HVLP sprayers--and catalyzed lacquer finishes.

Guitar makers--cabinet makers and others use that for a high gloss--

Also check out automobile finishes--Good luck--Mike---


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