# How to properly seal cuts and damage to drywall paper?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The right way would have been to cut any loose paper and just a light sanding to get rid of any high places then go over it with mud like you would any screw. No painting it first.


----------



## maxforwardspeed (Jul 13, 2012)

Can't I just sand it now, then re-apply the primer/sealer to the area after it's smoothed a bit better?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It's going to take at least two coats of drywall compound, sand it, add another coat if there's still flaws, then prime and paint.
Paint will not fix flaws in the finish.


----------



## maxforwardspeed (Jul 13, 2012)

Ok, thanks Joe. It was my understanding that the primer seals the nearby paper and protects it from moisture damage (swelling) when the mud is applied. But it sounds like you are basically saying to not be concerned with that step at all? Just go for the mudding and worry about the finish later?


----------



## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

If I have torn paper I will typically scrape and sand it, then prime before mudding. (to prevent bubbling in the mud later on) However for areas as small as in that pic, I wouldn't worry too much. Just make sure your screws are set to dimple below where the papr would be. One coat of primer is fine before any mudding, it's just to seal it.


----------



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup: 
Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:


----------



## stoner529 (Nov 12, 2010)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
> Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:


Im shocked out of all these posts, you are the first one to even say this...
Do as the Sir says. If you break the paper of the drywall, that means you have driven the screw in to far. it looks as if you used just a regular screw gun with out any special tip. each screw that is past the paper will not hold the drywall properly and will create problems. I dont see the paper being torn as a problem if it doesnt peal up from being ripped. If it does peel, then you need to do a little extra work.


----------



## maxforwardspeed (Jul 13, 2012)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
> Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:


Ok, question on that: Those screws in the photos actually appeared the same before they were flush with the drywall as they were going in. Is it possible that the torn appearance was created just from the paper curling up where the screw was first "catching" on the way in? 

I do have a few screws that I know for a fact broke the paper. They seemed to just let go and give when that happened. Not with these from the photos, they were definitely still biting pretty good.


----------



## stoner529 (Nov 12, 2010)

No...a properly set screw never does that.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

A picture and description of the screws would help. From about 8-10 inches away... Add a pic of the drill tip/attachment.

The paper facing/gypsum core doesn't require moisture sealing as you mentioned in post #1. Drywall is around 30 perms (vapor permeable).

Gary


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Agree with Sir & stoner. You have cut the face paper. Need to add a screw(s) close to the ones that popped WITHOUT going through the face paper. The drywall is not attached tightly to the framing if the paper is torn and you will have issues with screws "popping" until the problem is resolved. You don't need to prime. What type of moisture "attack" are you concerned about?? If this is in a conditioned space (heat and AC), there's no issue once the board is finished and painted properly......


----------



## crankcase (Sep 21, 2010)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
> Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:


Agreed, But I would also add to pull out the screw that was driven too deeply. For me any fastener that misses a framing member or not set properly or breaks the paper gets pulled.


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Definitely pull any that didn't hit any framing. Those that did will be ok if you add another fastener very close to the one that "popped", not a few inches away. And one above and below is best. If you back out the "offending" fastener, so much the better. It's no big deal with screws. I'm used to nails in wood framing, so pulling is not an option.....


----------

