# Can I install a lock with key on both sides on my Andersen 400 Hinged Patio door



## mystiky (Apr 18, 2011)

I am trying to figure out if there is a way for me to have a solution for the following dilemma, without cutting in a separate lock into the hinged patio door (which I will not do as it would void my 20-year warranty).

The reason why I want to install a lock with keys from either inside or outside is because we have a small child and we don't want him to be able to sneak into the room, turn the knob and get himself out on the balcony. In addition, we don't want him to be able to lock us out while we are on the balcony. Anyone with kids would understand our concerns.

I have spoke to Andersen and they told me that they do not sell a lock with a key on both sides. The representative did tell me that their locks are 1 3/8", and that the locks are made by Schlage for Andersen. 

Here is the technical background of what I have:

My door is a 400 Series Frenchwood Hinged Patio Door (1988-present)
http://www.andersenwindows.com/~/media/aw/files/technical-docs/parts-catalog/partscatalog-patiodoorsincludingstormwatch-1988-present--400series-frenchwoodhingedinswing.pdf

The doors handle that we have is called Anvers. Currently, there is no security lock installed. You can see the Anvers hardware parts breakdown on page 72 in the above link or here:
http://www.allaboutdoors.com/popup_image.php?pID=2578915
http://www.allaboutdoors.com/popup_add_image.php?imagesID=3229

Here is the lock that is sold by Andersen for my door:
http://www.andersenwindows.com/~/me...cs/accessory-guide/accessoryguide-0005155.pdf

As you can see, it has a turn knob on one side and the key on the other, which is not what we need.

I realize that some adjustment would need to be made (like a different plate) in order to make this happen if a compatible lock could be found. But as long as its done in the area of the door handle, we don't mind it.

I guess the worse case scenario would be to use the standard Andersen lock, but reverse it (knob to the outside, key on the inside) and then completely removing the knob, blocking the open hole and not having anything there so no one can lock/unlock the door from the outside at all, but we would be able to open or close it from the inside with the key.

If anyone has any ideas or input into this situation, I would appreciate it!


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

Most latch sets by any manufacturer can be modified for key entry both sides. You may have to go to a separate vendor or manufacturer, Andersen may be reticent to get involved here because of concerns regarding fire ingress and egress, right or wrong as that may be.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

It might be good to hunt for someone that can install a lock that is qualified to do work on Andersen products. Considering the importance to you for the features and the importance to maintain the warranty. it might be worth the money.

I have Renewal by Andersen sliders and discovered their installers are exclusive independent contractors and only work Andersen Renewal windows, but may do other work and be acceptable. My installer usually does 800 sliders a year (he does not do windows) and was meticulous, but the Renewals are not cheap. In my area, that be a local situation, but in your area. you may find a qualified installer that will just do a lock install and know how to get the parts for almost any combination.

Dick


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I would visit my local locksmith shop.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

There is plastic cover for knobs. Simple latch (not auto lock), slide bolt, chain...all above the kid's reach.


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## Jnaas2 (Mar 29, 2014)

Put a bloody deadbolt with the combination lock on the outside


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Buy another lock assembly and have a locksmith set it up the way you'd like. 

That or teach the child to stay the heck away from things. Seriously, there are a ton of things a 'small child' is supposed to avoid. You teach them these things and stay on top of it. To do otherwise is just bad parenting. 

The downside to putting a lock on the inside is you raise the risk of not being able to quickly exit through the door in the event of an actual emergency. What's worse, being trapped in the room, unable to escape or spending some time playing hardball teaching your child not to screw around with the doors?


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## clashley (Nov 24, 2009)

A double-keyed lock is not necessarily a fire hazard. It can be a security feature if the door in question has a window or side-light. If the OP wants a double-keyed lock for any reason, that's not a reflection on their parenting skills. I agree about calling a locksmith and seeing what sort of solution they can come up with.


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## mystiky (Apr 18, 2011)

Thanks everyone for your answers/input. 

As it turns out, the person who installed the door did not know how to properly install the lock mechanism ACTUATOR, which triggers the standard dead-bolt lock that came with the door handle set. Because of this, the door would not lock at all! Now that we figured this out (and the deadbolt lock) does work (it locks the door) when you pull the handle upwards, it looks like there is no need to add anything else.


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## jvanber (Apr 3, 2018)

I realize this is an old thread, but I'd come across it when I had the same question regarding my doors. 

My reason for wanting an interior cylinder was simply because I'm not comfortable with a simple thumb-turn being on the other side of a glass-door. For me, it was just security.

Andersen wasn't very helpful, telling me that everything was proprietary. I believe their multi-lock system is proprietary, but their handle-sets and their locking mechanisms are standards that can be bought from other vendors. Baldwin supplies a ton of great handlesets. Otherwise, the cylinder used in my door was called a "Scandinavian Oval," and it's widely used across most of Europe. Note, they do also use a slightly different egg-shaped oval mechanism in some of their doors, too. Mine didn't have that, but I'm sure that's likely another European standard cylinder.

So, what I did was simply purchase an additional lock cylinder. I then drilled holes all the way through the cylinder, and purchased some machine-screws that would simply go all the way through the interior cylinder, into the exterior cylinder. I had to create an oval in the escutcheon plate to fit the cylinder, but I think it looks pretty good. I ended up taking the cylinder to a local machine-shop and had them mill it out so the screws sit flush in the cylinder, but it looks great, and works exactly how I hoped it would.

Note, I simply discarded the actuator retention plate and screws that were used for the thumb-turn. What you're essentially doing here is just butting together two cylinders. The actuator is thick enough that the tail-pieces don't touch at all, so you can simply winch the cylinders together, and they fit perfectly. The interior cylinder isn't recessed as far as the exterior cylinder is, so it sticks out a little bit, but that doesn't bother me. I've seen some retention rings that you can mount along with the cylinder to give it a bit of a beveled look, but for me, this was good enough.

I've attached a photo. 

-Joshua


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## jvanber (Apr 3, 2018)

Anti-wingnut said:


> Most latch sets by any manufacturer can be modified for key entry both sides. You may have to go to a separate vendor or manufacturer, Andersen may be reticent to get involved here because of concerns regarding fire ingress and egress, right or wrong as that may be.


And that's exactly what I ran into. They preferred to tell me nothing, although it's obvious that the cut-out, internally, was designed originally to be able to fit another cylinder. 

I actually have my interior cylinder keyed differently than my exterior cylinder, so the key just stays in it 99% of the time. If someone steals it, it's useless as it only unlocks this door from the inside. When we go out of town, it gets locked and the key is removed, which turns this particular door from one of our weakest entry-points, into one of our strongest.


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