# Setting trusses for a Hip roof?



## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

We're setting trusses on our garage in a couple of weeks. Unlike gable end trusses, we can't set the first one on the along the wall plate and brace with 2x's screwed to the studs. Where should we start with our hip trusses?

The long trusses will be 54' in length, the shorter (length) trusses that mount perpendicular to the long trusses are about six to seven feet.

My first thoughts were to set the first long truss that connects directly to these short trusses to create a box or solid foundation. Then, attach all the short trusses, creating a solid, stable box for the rest of the progressively larger trusses to follow.

The trusses are for a garage measuring 54' x 54', and we will have a crane to do the setting.

Any help or thoughts?

Thanks, Tony


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

I have the impression that your roof is to have a front and rear hip roof.
Will the hip roof's have a different pitch than the main roofs?
You say that the hip truss's will be perpendicular to the main truss's. Would these be supported by the first main truss?
The building is to be square I believe. Will the roof be a pyamid in shape? If so, there could only one main truss.
Somehow, I'm missing something here. 
Perhaps others may have a better understanding of what you are building!


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## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

*Building is square,*

however it will have an 18' ridge with 16 main trusses. The long sides will have a 5/12 pitch, the short or small sides will be 8/12. 
Sorry, should have mentioned this.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

I'd install my girders first, since the hip trusses will likely hang off of the main span girder truss(es). Then the smaller jack trusses are hung off of the hip trusses. I don't see any other sequence that would actually work in this setup. You don't necessarily need to start in the middle. Starting at a well-braced girder and immediately hanging the hips and some of the larger jacks off of it will make that end of the roof pretty darn stable at that end and will enable you to head in the other direction with your 16 main span trusses in the direction of the other girder and the hips. 

Be sure that you have the appropriate hangers on site, especially the ones that the valley trusses hang in. 

You'll need to have a considerable amount of long 2x4's on hand for temporary bracing to the walls and plates to keep the trusses erect. Once you've sheathed the roof and installed the permanent lateral truss braces as specified in the design sheets, you can systematically remove the temporaries. 

If we had a picture of your truss layout we could know for sure how to best do this.


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## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

*termite,*

I'll get a picture up today for you guy's to see.


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## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

*Roof diagram*

Roof diagram


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Ahhh, different than I expected. Your main span trusses form the hips as opposed to a conventional hip truss off of which others hang. Bummer.

Although the layout is easy, it makes erecting it a little more challenging because your type of hip trusses don't work to your advantage in bracing the other trusses. _You'll just need to brace the heck out of them as you go_. Wherever you start, you'll have the same challenges. I wouldn't spend any time putting the little jack trusses in while you're paying for the crane. They very well may be manageable after the rest of the building is set.


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## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

*termite, here's my thought.*

Take the first long truss (54') on the extreme right or left, where the jack's fasten too. This also being the shortest of the long trusses.

Set that truss in place, brace it, then attach all the jack's to it.
This will form the stable box from where I can set the next larger truss and so on...and so on.

Or is there a smarter starting point or method?

Tony


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

I think that would work just fine. Just remember that you can't have enough braces to the walls. Bracing truss to truss alone during their erection is a dangerous game! :yes:


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## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

*ok...*

where and how would you brace the walls to the truss?


I was going to brace with 2x's in three locations, maybe 12' apart at the base of each truss to the next truss. This along with the top plate toe nailing should give us enough. 
Along the top, I'd attach truss to truss with 2x's in four locations, equal distance apart. Is this enough?


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

Ok....follow this idea. Start with the last main truss, and set it in place. Use 2x's down to the floor to keep the truss balanced up, since you don't have the pleasure of a gable truss and "catchers" to start with. Set the next truss and brace from the first, then the third, bracing to the fist and second...you can use "scabs" on the top chords. When you have the forth truss up, bridge them on the verticals, at least at 3 points, middle, left and right of center. After you get 4 more up, reverse the bridging (braces running like /// \\\ ) and you will have it structually stable while you get the hip trusses up. Do this on a calm day, and you should have fun.


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## TonyGG (Jun 8, 2008)

*From the bottom chord...*

to the concrete floor is 14'. How would you stabilize the 2x's to the deck?


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## joasis (May 28, 2006)

If I were doing it, I would drive a truck in that I could tie to. We do steel erections that have huge trusses, and I use angle iron for the same thing, clamped off on the truck bed.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

Before you schedule the crane.

Double check everything. (including tools and supplies)
be sure your top plates are where they need to be. Plumb walls...no belly or bows...one long wall an 1" too long?

Double check the trusses as soon as they arrive.. all there? proper size?..etc...better to check them while they are still on the delivery truck!

Have plenty of crew ready and confirm they are all in good health.

Truss setting day can be a long day. It gets even longer when you run into fun things to solve while the crane operator is tapping their foot and looking at their watch..


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