# building a storage shed



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Is your garage attached to the house & does it have a foundation down past the frost line?


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## blk90s13 (Apr 4, 2009)

the garage is not attatched to the house and it have what looks like 3 or more blocks I can see 2 blocks at low grade and non at high grade 


the shed would go in the back of the garage in my back yard maybe I should post a picture of the actual location ?


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

If it was attached to the house you match the house foundation depth
Since its not just match the depth of the garage "foundation"
That way the 2 structures should move the same in cold weather


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## blk90s13 (Apr 4, 2009)

So I should dig till I reach the lowest block and start there I would also bond the new wall to the old foundation ? blocks cemented together right ? 

And also do I lay down a layer of cement below the first block in the ground or just ontop ?


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Have you run this by the building dept 1st?
Many areas have setbacks that are required to be met


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## blk90s13 (Apr 4, 2009)

I asked about building a storage shed in the back yard they said it must be 10 feet away from property line thats all 

But I will check back with them to make sure its ok I guess


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

That's actually the main reason I asked
I saw the property line (fence) & it looked somewhat close
Here we have 15' set back

I would dig down & determine how deep the garage foundation/slab/block goes down & match that
For my shed (free standing) addition I poured a 12" deep "foundation"
My main reason was to keep mice out
2nd was to contain fill which will allow me to put blocks in as a floor


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

At 150 sf, that may be over the "magic" 120 sf that many areas have to avoid codes. This usually applies to unattached structures. This is in addition to the setback zoning requirements. - My son built a 120 sf unattached shed on grade with 10' high walls to avoid the local sf requirements. It was a great storage building because you got multiple levels of storage (dead and current) that fit into the seasonal situation.

It it is attached to an existing structure, that increases the concern for frost and differential movement from frost and temperatures.

If you go to sell in the future, you may have to remove the illegal structure if it is attached and is over the "magic" local sf limit, no matter how long it was there.

Dick


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## blk90s13 (Apr 4, 2009)

Thanks for the reply I will walk in the township and ask whats the magic number around here :whistling2: 


If it comes down to taking the structure down when its time to sell that can be done too I need to gain back all my garage space I have an automotive project coming up soon and all the lawn equipment need to get out :yes:


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

If you are adding onto a structure then they may count the whole finished product as far as a permit goes


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## blk90s13 (Apr 4, 2009)

I went into the township office today ( saw a couple of things that does not meet code :laughing: ) asked about the magic number for a permit and its 100 st ft  now thats inside space right ? 

They need a land survey with a mark on it as to where the shed will go :thumbup: and I am good to go


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

100 sq ft = outside measurements


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

That 100 sq. feet max probably applies to a detatched shed. I would imagine you could go bigger if attatching to the existing garage, assuming you do similar (to the garage) frost footings.


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## Storage_Sheds (Sep 22, 2010)

For extra large storage sheds like you guys are talking about I found a site with a lot of them for sale at http://www.shedsforlessdirect.com/

Hope that's some help.


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## steveel (Sep 10, 2010)

Even if you are pretty sure there is no buried utilities, call you version of MissDig before starting to move dirt (or incurring much other expense). They'll mark locate all the buried electrical and gas lines etc.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

I recently built (from scratch) a ca 100 sf shed (8x12) with four cinder block feet at the corners. The shed sits about 8 inches, or the thickness of the blocks, above ground. In hindsight I should have had six feet in all, three along each 12 foot side. Some sagging has occurred halfway across the front even though I used double 2x6 rim joists. The blocks sit on slightly larger pads of tamped gravel flush with the ground and about 12 inches deep.

My city requires a permit for a shed of any size, and there are setback requirements.

More details: http://www.Cockam.com/shed.htm

For a 10x15 shed, I would want at least 3 block feet from side to side and three block feet from front to rear. Putting the blocks along the perimeter under the rim joists is no problem but there needs to be support such as a center beam for the middles of all the joists, to keep any of the joists from sagging because it did not have a concrete block foot directly under it.

Or use 2x8 joists, and 8 blocks, 4 along the front and 4 along the back.


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## Storage_Sheds (Sep 22, 2010)

*Sheds*

I found a 10x15 storage shed like you are looking for at http://www.shedsforlessdirect.com/ , it is actually a garage with double front doors and a side door. It's a vinyl shed so there isn't all the construction you have with wood sheds.


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