# Anything that can be done with this sort of rust?



## avgor (Jan 22, 2012)

Mers ML320. 10 years old. Started to rust in the last year. Located in Ottawa, ON, Canada so winters are nasty for cars.

Few spots just started to appear.

Thanks for recommending options. My current option is to drive it until it falls apart unless there is inexpensive way to deal with it. The car itself is in awesome shape.


----------



## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Well, I don't see any visible holes so that's good. This appears to be some serious surface rust. I would us a fine gauge wire brush mounted in a drill to remove as much of this rust as possible. You probably won't be able to take this apart to treat any rust under this sheet metal area. There are very good liquid rust removing treatments out there under various names. Most of these, the good one's, also leave a Phosphate coating when you remove the material. After removing all the rust you can by hand, and using a chemical treatment to get into the cracks and such, a good coat of a galvanizing spray would not hurt this area.


----------



## avgor (Jan 22, 2012)

Thurman said:


> Well, I don't see any visible holes so that's good. This appears to be some serious surface rust. I would us a fine gauge wire brush mounted in a drill to remove as much of this rust as possible. You probably won't be able to take this apart to treat any rust under this sheet metal area. There are very good liquid rust removing treatments out there under various names. Most of these, the good one's, also leave a Phosphate coating when you remove the material. After removing all the rust you can by hand, and using a chemical treatment to get into the cracks and such, a good coat of a galvanizing spray would not hurt this area.


Thanks Thurman.

It appears to be bubbling up under the pain. I seem to be able to take a screwdriver and peel lots of it of so I think if might be rather deep.

What are good liquid rust removing treatments?


----------



## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2584

good for surface rust only. sorta turns rust into primer base for painting.


----------



## polarzak (Dec 1, 2008)

Having lived in Quebec many years ago, rust was a problem because of the extraordinary amount of salt used in the winter. I am sure Ottawa, is the same. Cars are made better now, but still rust somewhat. If I were you, I would use both methods described in the previous posts. A wire wheel on a drill, or even a metal grinder, and follow up with a rust remover, a rust inhibitor primer, and than paint. Using those rust removers only, without taking as much rust off as possible, has been a waste of time in my experience....sorry ukrkoz..but I found Navel Jelly to be one of the least effective. They used to sell a product at Canadian Tire that turned any remaining rust after wire brushing, a black/purple color (a chemical reaction) and also acted as a primer. Sorry I cannot remember the name. The bottle was white with black lettering. Don't know if they still sell the stuff. 
The bottom line is that the amount of effort you put in prep and the job, directly relates to the results and longevity. Good luck with it.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm not there to see it but it looks like it's rusting from the bottom up.
In other words the metal under the door frame is rusting causing the back side of that piece to rust which is causing the chrome plating to fail.
Remove the panel and see what's going on under it.
Any spray on coating even with a rust converter at best would be just a temperary fix. First time someone drags there foot on it the paints going to come off. 
Replacing the piece, totaly would make more since to me in this case.
Trying to get it replated would not even be a cost effective or good looking option. 
With chrome plating the finsihed look is only as good as the finish below it. If there's pits there going to show.


----------



## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

polarzak said:


> Having lived in Quebec many years ago, rust was a problem because of the extraordinary amount of salt used in the winter. I am sure Ottawa, is the same. Cars are made better now, but still rust somewhat. If I were you, I would use both methods described in the previous posts. A wire wheel on a drill, or even a metal grinder, and follow up with a rust remover, a rust inhibitor primer, and than paint. Using those rust removers only, without taking as much rust off as possible, has been a waste of time in my experience....sorry ukrkoz..but I found Navel Jelly to be one of the least effective. They used to sell a product at Canadian Tire that turned any remaining rust after wire brushing, a black/purple color (a chemical reaction) and also acted as a primer. Sorry I cannot remember the name. The bottle was white with black lettering. Don't know if they still sell the stuff.
> The bottom line is that the amount of effort you put in prep and the job, directly relates to the results and longevity. Good luck with it.


no problem. I said - it's for surface rust only. I think, what you talking about is same chemical, just re-branded. Naval Gelly is used in marine fleets on large flat surfaces. I did a roof using it, results - after hrs of sanding - where OK for half baked paint job.
He will have to remove bulk rust, and will end up with dents as a result. There's no quick fix for what he has.


----------



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Sorry ol bud UK, but I also think Naval jelly from HD is a bad product. Now, theres not really a "rust remover", other than hydrochloric acid, but I think what you guys mean to say is rust "converter". Theres am exccellent product out there Rustoleum Rust reformer. There are also other brands packaging the knock off formula, Im sure. 

But thats if you want to CONVERT rust. Yes, remove the most you can with wire brush/sand paper, then cooat 2 X with rust converters.

IF you truly want to REMOVE rust, the only relatively safe, cheap, available, practical, quick (geez, thats a lot of conditions), is hydrochloric acid concentrated.


----------



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Now, hydrochloric acid is also known as muriatic acid. I said "relatively" ssafe, but you must wear safety glasses, and gloves, and be outside for best ventillation! brush it on with a nylon brush, dont puddle it/pool/apply too much so it runs, just apply to wet the area. Then, 15 minutes later, repeat it. The HCl will , yes, remove/dissolve away the rust. BUT, after you seee the bare shuiny clean steel below, you hace to rinse it off with plenty of water!. Then dry it well. 

Then, coat like members said above, with rust inhibiting primer, paint 2 coats, and go from there.......


----------



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

IF you dont want to deal with HCl, wire brush, and rust converter, paint 2 coates- thats your only option.....


----------



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Do NOT neglect a 10 yr old mercedes! Its just getting broked in!


----------

