# Cordless circular saw can't start -- if blade touches the wood



## joemc3 (Feb 24, 2013)

Want to confirm if this is in fact the cordless circular saw problem:

I have a brand new Ridgid cordless circular saw. When I cut even a thin wood piece, if the blade is in contact with the wood the saw will immediately stall.

I'm talking about a 1/4" thin wood piece.


I have the saw blade touching the wood piece all the times when I start cutting using circular saw -- so I can be sure when the saw starts cutting it'll start cutting at the correct location.

If I let the saw start and the blade get up to speed first, the Ridgid cordless circular saw cuts the wood fine.

With my corded circular saw it won't have this problem at all. It'd start right up and the blade will not stall and it cuts thru' the wood -- even if the blade touches or even slightly biting the wood when the saw starts cutting.


The problem is with the Ridgid cordless circular saw?


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> I have the saw blade touching the wood piece all the times when I start cutting using circular saw -- so I can be sure when the saw starts cutting it'll start cutting at the correct location.


That’s not the correct way to start a saw. In fact, it can be dangerous. Starting a saw with the blade in contact with the wood can cause kick back. 

You should hold the blade back from the wood, start it and allow the blade to reach full speed, then advance the blade into the wood.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

I can see why the portable saw is stalling. IMO, the way you are using a power circular saw is not a normal practice and dangerous. The blade should be running as it enters the wood. Prevents kickback and even damage to a powerful electric circular saw. As you are starting a motorized tool, with its blade locked against the wood.

Sorry Oso, typing at the same time.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

joemc3 said:


> I have the saw blade touching the wood piece all the times when I start cutting using circular saw -- so I can be sure when the saw starts cutting it'll start cutting at the correct location.


Build yourself a guide and the saw will cut in the correct location each and every time, the blade won't need being in contact when the saw is started and it will take all the wiggly, wobbly guess work out of your cuts. If more accuracy is needed than pencil marks, use a knife blade or razor blade marks to set the guide location.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Even my 500 pound table saw stalled (and flipped the breaker) when I had wood pushed up against it (not intentional) and started it. 


I suppose if you have a very light touch, your method could work. I use the guide on the saw.


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## joemc3 (Feb 24, 2013)

SPS-1 said:


> I suppose if you have a very light touch, your method could work.


I use a slight but clear contact. Mainly when cutting plywood. As often times the moment the saw starts it can move the starting position a bit off. I don't mind a slight kickback.

The corded SkilSaw never had any issue, it'd start totally fast and fine even with a firm touch on the plywood. That works out nicely.

I guess the other way is to use a guide, just that often times I'm doing quick/odd cuts on the fly shortening a piece of wood don't want to head back and go thru' all the set up's.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

joemc3 said:


> I guess the other way is to use a guide, just that often times I'm doing quick/odd cuts on the fly don't want to head back and go thru' all the set up's.


If you provide a line to follow that takes as much time, possibly more than measuring off 2 marks fore and aft to set the guide to.

The guide can produce cuts that equal a table saw and possibly better when attempting to cut 4x8 sheets without special table saw set up.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

joemc3 said:


> Want to confirm if this is in fact the cordless circular saw problem:
> 
> I have a brand new Ridgid cordless circular saw. When I cut even a thin wood piece, if the blade is in contact with the wood the saw will immediately stall.
> 
> ...



I've used Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee cordless saws, and they all do that. Blade has to be free and spinning full tilt before contact. Must be a safety feature, though I've never figured out why corded saws should be any different.


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## joemc3 (Feb 24, 2013)

Marson said:


> I've used Dewalt, Makita, and Milwaukee cordless saws, and they all do that. Blade has to be free and spinning full tilt before contact. Must be a safety feature, though I've never figured out why corded saws should be any different.


Was thinking about trying a different brand cordless circular saw if would work better with the way I do quick cuts. Looks like I can save my trip now... .


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

joemc3 said:


> The problem is with the Ridgid cordless circular saw?





Sorry, it's you and your technique, not the saw.


When starting to cut watch the front of the blade come into your line. After your in the cut you can shift your eyes to the guide on the front of the base.


Practice a few times, much safer, and will solve your issue.


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## jimfarwell (Nov 25, 2014)

Point one - I'm no expert, so feel free to ignore my advice. As they say, free advice is worth every penny you pay for it. 

Point two - I never tried starting a cut with ANY kind of electric saw with the blade touching the wood, 'cause my sainted Daddy told me I would likely kill myself (no great loss) and might wound him in the process (major _faux pas_) -- he told me (repeatedly) to always bring that old Skilsaw's blade up to speed before engaging the wood, and I have followed that advice for over 60 years.

Point 3 - try to start a cut using a hand-saw (especially one with an aggressive tooth pattern, like a Stanley 15-087 rip saw) by PUSHING that first stroke. Good luck with that. You need to make at least two full draw- strokes to take off the corner and give you about a quarter inch of flat surface, and even then you need a fair amount of muscle to start pushing the saw thru the cut. Without those draw-strokes, I can't start the cut, and I'm a fair-sized farm bubba.

...Lotsa words (sorry 'bout that) to make a simple point: unless you're cutting thin balsa wood, if you engage one of your power-saw's teeth into the wood before you start the motor, you'll need a diesel truck engine to start the blade spinning. Even if you're cutting really thin wood and your saw WILL start with the teeth engaged, it will almost surely rip up your wood. If you get your saw up to speed (about 5,800 rpm on my Milwaukee 7.25" circular saw, about 4,600 rpm on my Makita 10" table saw), the teeth are traveling so fast they act as chisels - if it's sharp, a good saw blade can make a very smooth cut. At zero rpm, that first tooth isn't a chisel, it's a pry-bar...pry-bars just don't make glass-smooth cuts.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

As stated, really bad cutting approach. If you grab your 10” slide cumpound miter, bang the blade down against a two bye four, and then pull the trigger....and you might blow the breaker as it is likely that the saw will just stall out. And in addition, when you try to start with the blade in contact, you will be TEARING out the first bit, not getting a smooth cut. Practice doing it the right way and it will be way easier. Ron


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## Deaknh (Mar 24, 2018)

As said numerous times, do not start any saw while contacting the cutting surface. Dangerous and harmful to the saw.


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