# Epoxy countertops with stones/glass



## Ron6519

This is not a DIY project. If your budget doesn't have real or engineered stone in it, try looking at laminate counters. They have some stone patterns that might get you where you want. Getting a bevel edge will make it look less like laminate.
Ron


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## Kingfisher

seconded


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## DIYtestdummy

It *CAN* be done, but I think it will end up being more work and possibly not be very cost-effective by the time you are finished. Concrete would be more DIY, but again not so easy.

I work with composites and polyester resin (non-professionally) and it takes some of practice and patience, not to mention time and money if you don't already have the tools and experience. This stuff can be hazardous to your health and to the environment if you are not careful. I have contemplated saving money by using leftover supplies to make small bathroom countertops, mainly for the custom fit and look that I can't find pre-fab. I had to sign a waiver when I bought the place basicaly stating that I would not create a toxic and hazardous environment on my property that the EPA or other authorities would have to clean up and doing stuff like this is borderline with the small amount of chemicals I do procure. If you have an industrial place to work - fine, just do some research and educate yourself on the risks. 

This *is not* high school chemistry...


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## STEPHENWANGEL

*Recycled glass*

The tops that you saw are made from 100% post-consumer recycled glass. The resin was probably 100% solids epoxy. Great for the environment as there are no VOC emissions, and it uses recycled products. It is manufactured in slabs, usually 3CM thick (+-1 1/4") It fabricates just like natural stone or quartz, so it's not for the DIYer. Fabricated, it can be a BIG premium over stone, so be careful.

If you want to try it as a DIY project, a company called enviroglass out of Plano Texas makes the material in 3/8" tiles, usually for flooring. But I don't see why you couldn't fabricate it like a tile top with a wood or ceramic edge.


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## Headingforbetty

*i'm gonna try anyways*

Despite the above advice I think I'd like to try to make one as well. I'm gonna round up some materials and start experimenting this summer. Maybe do a few 1' x 1' x 1.5" sample blocks, with different % of recycled glass material in the mix. I can't really find too much info online so I'm going to speak with my local industrial supply guy to see if he has any thoughts on the matter. I figure if it's safe enough to spread all over a commercial/industrial floor, why not my kitchen. ;^p

I'll keep you in the loop. If you decide to try it too, let me know how it works out.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

What you are proposing is not something I suggest. Just a couple of reasons:
1.) Epoxy resins are expensive.
2.) Working with epoxy resins can be difficult.

Some Alternatives:

HANSTONE: I was quoted $40 SF last week, by my supplier and fabricator.
link: http://www.hanstoneusa.com/

OR:

Have you looked into fabricating concrete countertops? Much more DIY friendly and cost-efficient.
links:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Concrete-Countertops-for-the-Kitchen---Solid-Surfa/

http://www.hgtvpro.com/hpro/di_kitchens/article/0,,HPRO_20172_3456203,00.htm

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/author/dcn/conccounter-a.html

http://www.buddyrhodes.com/


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## Headingforbetty

*No title*

I realize resins are difficult to work with and have some experience with the material. I also know the costs, but as I live in Northern canada (way at the top of the map) and things cost an arm and a leg to get them shipped thousands of kilometers, I have to make due with materials that are available to me. 

I think the best way to figure stuff out is to go ahead and try and do it. I'm in the construction industry so it's not like I'm an average DIY-er. Anyways, summer's still a long way off up here, but once it comes I'll try a few small pieces and let you know how they work out. Maybe they'll be a disaster, but hopefully not.


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## Headingforbetty

Oh yeah, I'm planning to do a concrete counter-top as well. Busy, busy summer for me. ;^p


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## DIYtestdummy

Right-on! You sound like me. You won't know unless you try. No one will stand in your way if you want to do something. I started messing around with polyester resin and fiberglass. Love/hate realtionship. I messed up a lot, but I learned too. You can get in over your head real quick and even start fires or damage your health. I did lots of research, but I never knew until I tried...and tried, and tried. Still trying, but I'm turning out successful projects now. The only problems I have other than expense are time and once I start doing something I can't stop until it's done. Oh, and clean-up, lol!


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## gbirnie

It is a big project but if you want to do it here is what you need to do.
-You will need to make a wood form with the edge profiles that you want to have. Then you will need to sand it very smooth. Then you will coat it with *Kleer Kote *Table Top Epoxy Resin after this hardens you will have to wet sand it with 600 grit paper. After you have accomplished this you will have to Apply a minimum of 6 coats of mold release wax so that the epoxy doesn't stick to your mould.

Then you will pour 3/16 to 1/4" of epoxy over the form and wait for it to cure. This will be your counter surface you do this so that you don't have any of the materials from your pattern on the surface of your counter top. Then you apply your stones or glass and sand or what ever you decide to use to make your pattern. You can use a piece of glass to try your pattern out on to kind of get an idea of what it will look like in the counter top.

After you have placed the glass or what ever you will use proceed to pour another 1/4" of epoxy over this. Do not exceed more than a 1/4" at a time as the heat from the curing of the epoxy can cause it to crack. 

Once your counter top gets to be around 3/4" think then you will apply another 1/4" layer of epoxy mixed with epoxy die of the colour you want. You do this so that you can't see through your counter top. 

Then for the final step you will apply a thin layer of epoxy then layout fiberglass cloth and don't let this cure after you put the fiber glass cloth you apply more epoxy to complete this layer. When you are done your counter top should be about 1 1/4" thick.

When you take it out of the mould you can sand it and oil it to get the polish that you want.

Note when you mix your epoxy mix it slowly as if you mix it to fast ie: whip it you will get air bubble that are hard to get out of epoxy. on your first layer if you have air bubbles if you heat the epoxy with a heat gun it is easier to get them out.

And another note is that when you mix your epoxy you will see it will go cloudy you will know when your epoxy is properly mixed when it goes back to clear again. Also don't scrap the epoxy off of the sides of the container to get it all out cause as a rule the epoxy on the side of the container is usally the least mixed and can cause some hardness variences throughout the surface. The rest of the layers are not as important as the first one.

Hope this helps


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## Headingforbetty

*Thanks for the suggestions*

Thanks for all the advice. It's definitely given me a better idea on how to do this. Couple questions. 

If you only color one layer of the counter-top, will you be able to see the different layers when viewing it from the profile. (if I understand you correctly, you will have have about four 1/4" layers of clear cote, with one colored layer one the bottom.)

Also, why put the layer with the fiberglass? To give it more tensile strength?

Again, thanks for the advice.


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## gbirnie

Yes the fiber glass is for tensile strength when you are done making the counter top it will be quit heavy and the fiber glass gives it strength when you are getting it out of the mould and carrying it. It also strengthens the area where the sink cut will be.

As far as the coloring goes what ever you use for your pattern ie:rocks pebbles glass you want to make sure you have enough of it so you dont see through it on a profile view. you could put coloring in with the epoxy that you put over your pattern as well. Just make sure you don't put any in your first layer or you won't be able to see your pattern.

The reason I don't put color in with my pattern is that I used pebbles and then filed with crushed stone and stand which makes it not see through. By having this layer clear will give you the 3d effect that granit has. Also by putting color in this layer if any of the epoxy makes it to the front of your pattern that will be what you see the color in stead of the pattern so you could end up with bloches on your pattern. All the layer of color is for is if you have a couple of spots where light can make it through you pattern you won't see the fiberglass or in your cupboard.

There is no wrong way to do it when it comes to adding color depends what you want it to look like at the end.


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## gbirnie

This might clear something up for you as well. Your first layer you will also coat the viewable edge of the counter top where you will also apply your pattern so you don't see the layers so you will have to do the surface first when that hardens then prop up the pattern so the your viewable edge is flat and coat it after that has all hardened then you will put you pattern on the front of counter let that harden then lay the mould flat again and do the patter there as well. I over looked that step glad you picked that up.


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## gbirnie

One last thing about the sink it is easier to put the sink cut out as part of your pattern instead of cutting it out after. Cause if you have glass or rock inside your pattern if will be tricky to cut. And if you want to profile the sink hole then make sure you have enough epoxy there for your first layer to make the profile of your choice. ie making the profile and not hitting the pattern inside your counter.


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## xhairspray

*hmmmm?*

was wondering if anyone knew if it is possible to cover an existing laminate counter top (circa 1980) with paint then poor epoxy over it so that i don't have to buy a new counter top? it would be poured in place.


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## ram0823

*Help making a glass resin bar top*

I found a company that makes 1 1/2" thick glass counter tops that look like a piece of ice called "THINK GLASS". My bar top is approx. 8ft x 24" and they quoted me a price of about $20k ouch!. I have no choice but to try to make it myself with epoxy resin. I would like to tint it blue and add undermount lighting for effect. Can anyone answer a few questions?? Is this top too big to make in one piece, will the resin allow the light to shine through, and due to the multiple layers will it cloud up. Also, it was mentioned to add fiberglass cloth for strength. Where can you purchase it at and would I need to add more layers for stength. Does anyone no of websites, utube, books, or videos that can take me through a step by step process. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Rich


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## kimberly13

HeadingForBetty: how'd it go? I'm thinking of doing the same thing. Reading a lot, curious.


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## user1007

Epoxy is not a good kitchen countertop material. Try real thick recycled glass or an approach like Vetrazzo. Vetrazzo is, as far as I can tell, a near classic terrazo finish but for countertops. It is made out of colored glass from recycled glass bottles, traffic sign lenses, and concrete. I would assume you could light it like anything else glass. 

http://www.vetrazzo.com/

I like solid, thick, glass countertops if the kitchen matches the call for it. Light them up of course? Most of my projects are antique homes and it would look stupid.

Solid thick glass, stone, Verrazo, Terrazo, will cost you about the same. Might get a green tax credit for renewable source countertops like glass/concrete though if you play your cards right.


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## kimberly13

Please tell me more -- why is it not a good countertop material? Doesn't wear well once it's finished, or because it's difficult to work with? Vertrazzo is about $100 sqft, WAYYYY out of my budget. (I had that budget set aside once, but my new windows ate my countertops.) Pricing out materials of resin and glass bits, even to practice with first, it comes to only about a third of that. What am I missing?


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## user1007

kimberly13 said:


> Please tell me more -- why is it not a good countertop material? Doesn't wear well once it's finished, or because it's difficult to work with? Vertrazzo is about $100 sqft, WAYYYY out of my budget. (I had that budget set aside once, but my new windows ate my countertops.) Pricing out materials of resin and glass bits, even to practice with first, it comes to only about a third of that. What am I missing?


First, you are going to have to surface down whatever bits stick up in your new poured epoxy polymer top. Have you factored in the tools and abrasives to do this? By their nature, the glass fragments will not surface the way you had in mind just because you sunk them in curing polymer resin--even expoxy--and hoped for the best. You are going to have to grind and polish the countertop you have in mind. 

An epoxy or other polymer counter can take anything you choose to spill on it. Personal fave for bar counter finishes. Last and least fave choice for a working kitchen. Cannot cut on the surface. Will scare it in seconds with a hot pot. 

Polymers of most any kind cannot take the heat of any hot pot you accidentally set on them. A polymer countertop will look really crappy if you take a cutting knife to it or if your kids toss things on it. And just try to repair it in a few years. Cannot. 

I guess I get a great discount on countertops for my clients. They don't pay anywhere near approaching $100sf for stuff, even hand carved out of Italian quaries, by naked singing nymphs from what I can I can gather. My glass people deliver nice thick countertops for under that price point. You might want to call in an interior designer or someone like me near you if you are accustomed to paying that much? Retail?

And to answer your basic question? A polymer countertop is going to end up a large piece of plastic, by any other name, when the day ends. Go with something better and that works in your kitchen.


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