# Adding an attached shed to back of garage wall



## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

My 3rd garage stall extends past the house and, so, is open to the backyard along the rear wall. This would be an ideal place to add an attached shed if I can figure out how to connect the roof line to the existing house and garage. I'm attaching a picture for reference, the small free-standing shed is where I would be adding the attached shed. I was thinking of carrying the exterior wall of the garage another 8' - 10' and putting a door on the rear wall of the shed. I'm just having trouble visualizing my roofing options. One idea I have is to run stringers from about mid-way up the rear slope of the garage roof and take them out to the rear wall of the new shed. Would this change in pitch look bad? Is there a better option? I'd like to keep costs to a minimum but it has to look ok too. Thanks for any and all advice.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

That looks similar to my son's home before his shed.

He built a detached shed (8x10 or 8x12) on a slab to comply the the local codes (sf limitation), but did not require any inspections. He but it with a concrete ramp and with 10' high side walls, to get a huge increase in the usable space since the toys and equipment could be on the slab and everything hung on the walls or above.

He moved the shed slightly away for the house and garage to keep within the setback requirements and provide access. He also pulled power into buried conduits to provide minimal power for lights and recharging.

Use the same siding as the home and the same roof pitch and no one will know it was an afterthought. He had a severe windstorm and the insurance company had a new roof and siding installed because it looked original.

Dick


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Is that a gas meter hiding behind the shed? Can't cover or enclose that.....Required distance away is

Gary


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Some thoughts:


There is the flat roof option. I don't like flat roofs due to maintenance issues, but they are sometimes the best option given situation, costs, etc.
Carry the roof line on as it is, to have a sloping ceiling in the new area - may be ok if primary use is storage - build in shelving where the ceiling is lowest.
Redo the roof framing all the way from the ridge line with lower slope - more problematic if it's trusses. The most work and cost, but if done well, it would not look like an add-on.


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

No gas meter, just a faucet on that wall (easily moved). I am pretty much opposed to a flat roof and carrying the existing roof much further will get very low, very quick and limit the size of the storage area. It seems to me it would be a lot of money for very little benefit. I will have to look at it a little close though. The last option, starting at the ridge and replacing (and extending) the roof is one option I have considered but, again, could be very costly. The other idea I had was to start mid-way up the roof and create a new roof line using stringers on the existing roof. Not sure if that's even possible due to loads and such. Here is a picture of what I'm trying to describe:









Thanks for the replies, I don't know if I can find a reasonable solution or not...and I may end up just putting a larger shed where the small one is. I'm afraid that has it's own issues though too, being so close to the house.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The last picture seems like a solution as long as the roof pitch allow shingles. Just use joists engineered for your loads.
Ron


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Augy said:


> No gas meter, just a faucet on that wall (easily moved). I am pretty much opposed to a flat roof and carrying the existing roof much further will get very low, very quick and limit the size of the storage area. It seems to me it would be a lot of money for very little benefit. I will have to look at it a little close though. The last option, starting at the ridge and replacing (and extending) the roof is one option I have considered but, again, could be very costly. The other idea I had was to start mid-way up the roof and create a new roof line using stringers on the existing roof. Not sure if that's even possible due to loads and such. Here is a picture of what I'm trying to describe:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If doing this, why not just take the 'stringers' all the way to the ridge? When I suggested going all the way to the ridge this is what I had envisioned. Not much cost or effort difference going all the way to the ridge vs. part way. Going only part way I think you will find a problem with not having adequate slope for a shingled roof.


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

vsheetz said:


> If doing this, why not just take the 'stringers' all the way to the ridge? When I suggested going all the way to the ridge this is what I had envisioned. Not much cost or effort difference going all the way to the ridge vs. part way. Going only part way I think you will find a problem with not having adequate slope for a shingled roof.


I see what you're saying. I re-drew the plan that way and it looked better. I was getting the hang of Google Sketchup so I started from scratch and drew the house with the proper roofs and exteriror walls. In the drawing below I have added a 3-season (or screened) porch where we plan to add this summer or next and that gave me a better idea for the attached shed which I think looks ok and is very simple. I think this is the best idea assuming I can make it work in the real world.


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Augy said:


>


This simple shed roof would be the easiest, quickest, and cheapest. As long as you can live with the reduced wall height on the one side, this looks good. 

You had mentioned the fauset - might consider rather than just move it over, to both leave it and move/extend it. The existing could be plumbed to a "dirty sink" in the shed (composite laundry sinks are inexpensive and work well in this application). Handy for cleanup of things you would not want to drag through the house. If you want hot water there, just install a small electric on-demand water heater at the sink.


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

In my area any attachment to the main building requires a permit and must be done according to code. It must have boundary approvals as well.
If its a free standing shed, of 100 s.f. or less, no permit or approvals are required.

You should check and see what your local by-laws require.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

I don't know the measurements of your house but it looks like something like this will work too.

Andy.


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

AndyGump said:


> I don't know the measurements of your house but it looks like something like this will work too.
> 
> Andy.


Thanks, that looks even better. I will get some actual dimensions and see what I can come up with that works along these lines. Guess I should talk to the city engineering department too and figure out what they'll allow.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

The Planning Department would be the one talk to first, I think. They are the ones that would determine if the set-backs and lot coverage and design will be O.K. 

The Building Department is mostly interested in if the design of the building is safe.

If your jurisdiction is anything like mine or most that I have dealt with then you will need a site plan, floor plan, elevations, details, notes etc.

The plans you submit to the Planning Department will be the same ones to go to the Building Department for permit approvals.

Andy.


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