# Building a heavy bag stand



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cinder blocks maybe? you could lay them on their side with a piece of plywood under them, fill the voids with readymix then set the beams into the wet concrete at the desired height and angle

you could even just use a couple of 5 gallon buckets with concrete. They'd be heavy but i doubt it would wiggle much


----------



## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Buy two new 2x4's? Cindeer block, concrete, plywood, etc. will cost 2-3 times more than jubt buying two new 2x4's...


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

AGWhitehouse said:


> Buy two new 2x4's? Cindeer block, concrete, plywood, etc. will cost 2-3 times more than jubt buying two new 2x4's...


Home depot has cinder blocks for less than a buck, and I think it'll be able to withstand 300 lbs without filling the void with readymix... I or I'll just fill the void with the clay bricks I bought... 

Thanks for the suggestion guys


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

AGWhitehouse said:


> Buy two new 2x4's? Cindeer block, concrete, plywood, etc. will cost 2-3 times more than jubt buying two new 2x4's...


Come on now, who among us doesn't have a couple homer buckets and cinder blocks laying around the yard?:yes:


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

Mr Chips said:


> Come on now, who among us doesn't have a couple homer buckets and cinder blocks laying around the yard?:yes:



By the way chips, how would homer buckets and cinder blocks work? Just place the homer buckets upside down with the cinder blocks inside?


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

You know you can buy a stand for less than a hundred bucks. 

I watched your vid the first time you post and I see a at least few flaws to the design as illustrated if it‘s going to function as intended for any period of time. 

You may want to rethink this IMO.


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> You know you can buy a stand for less than a hundred bucks.
> 
> I watched your vid the first time you post and I see a at least few flaws to the design as illustrated if it‘s going to function as intended for any period of time.
> 
> You may want to rethink this IMO.



Can you tell me the possible flaws? I don't like most of the bag tand designs as they don't allow for enough space, and the ones I like are a couple hundred


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

boba7523 said:


> Can you tell me the possible flaws? I don't like most of the bag tand designs as they don't allow for enough space, and the ones I like are a couple hundred


His chain is a joke, undersized and already coming apart. When that chain breaks it "will" hurt. :cursing:


You would want a sleeve through his “beams” to keep the chain from 
ripping through the wood.


2x4’s on the flat are weak enough to begin with let alone with knots almost the entire thickness of the board.


His lateral support to keep the 2x’s from spreading is no more than a string attached to the weakest part of the board (at the edge of a knot).


My conclusion after watching the video is “what’s this guy smoking”? :laughing:


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I agree with Ron. The guy should have come here first for some help in designing this thing. :laughing: No way would I ever trust something constructed like this.

DM


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

If you view his newer video he has steel cables wrapped around the beams like in the pic above, but anyways, and I bought steel chainsnthick enough to support 600 load limit. Also, the what kind of sleeve are you referring to? As for the rope, where would be a better place to tie the beams at from separating? 

Do you think his new modification is a little better where he ties steel cable around the top?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=di-DAD3jngg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SQ_yLrg_dc


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Your links don't take me to the new vid.


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> Your links don't take me to the new vid.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=di-DAD3jngg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SQ_yLrg_dc

Here you go, link updated.


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Bolt (3/8”x 3 ½” w/washers) the 2x4’s at the top. Drill a hole to snugly fit a 3“x½” piece of galvanized conduit for the bags cable to pass though to protect the wood from cable ware. File down the inside edge of the conduit to protect the cable. Use chain or cable for the spread stop. No excessively large knots in the 2x4’s.


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> Bolt (3/8”x 3 ½” w/washers) the 2x4’s at the top. Drill a hole to snugly fit a 3“x½” piece of galvanized conduit for the bags cable to pass though to protect the wood from cable ware. File down the inside edge of the conduit to protect the cable. Use chain or cable for the spread stop. No excessively large knots in the 2x4’s.


Awesome! For drilling the holes for the conduit, since i only have a 3/8" drill which can't support any large drill bits (or can it?), I'm going to use my 7mm drill bit to drill an 3"x 1/2" hole. Say the conduit doesn't fit the hole snuggly, can I use double sided tape or glue to glue it to the hole? 

Also, i bought nylon wrapped steel cables, hopefully those will be better than unwrapped steel cable.

Edit:
Ad for the coduit, do you mean something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'm not really familiar with what a conduit is


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

1/2" condutit probably take a 7/8" bit. You should have no problem with your 3/8" drill if you use a cheap spade bit ( aka paddle bit). You should be able to pick one up for a couple bucks. Drill into a scap piece and test the fit first.


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

boba7523 said:


> do you mean something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


No, I was talking about pipe conduit. You could just use on of these fittings instead. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Buy a cheap spade bit so you can drill the right size hole.

EDIT: Actually, if they have a 4" version of that fitting and you can get nuts and washers to fit it will also be the bolt.


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> EDIT: Actually, if they have a 4" version of that fitting and* you can get nuts and washers to fit it will also be the bolt.*


I'm confused as to what you mean by that. I thought all I had to do was fit it snuggly into the hole I drilled, or do I have to bolt it down too?


----------



## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

He's saying that if you buy a piece of 4" threaded conduit and get washers and nuts to fit the threaded end, then the conduit will serve as both the hinge point of the two 2x4's as-well-as the guide for the chain to keep the wood from chafing.


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

another option that just occurred to me is using tee-nuts instead of conduit.
if you got a couple tee-nuts that were big enough for your cable to pass through, you could drill a hole for the tee-nuts, hammer them into both faces of the wood, then run a steel bit or round file through to knock down the threads. Would protect the wood, act as a guide, & look super clean.

I'm not sure what size cable you plan to use, but i'm sure you could pick up a couple 3/8" or 1/2" tee nuts for under a buck at the local hardware store

EDIT: in case you are not familiar with a tee nut, here's a pict










the part that sticks out goes into the wood and there are little nail like prongs that bite in. the outside is flat. You could use your drill and the appropriate size bit to drill through the hole enough to file down the threads, or just use a rat tail file or even your dremel with a long thin stone (like you'd use to sharpen a chain saw)


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

Thanks guys, I ill look for conduits and tee nuts and see which ones are available at my store. By the way, my drill bit is stuck inside my Dewalt drill... I think it penetrated into the drill and got stuck. its not the chuck part that's stuck as they are already loosened, but rather where the drip bit sits inside. Any idea how to pulling out?

Edit: I was just wondering, if I decide to use the 1/2" conduit, can't I just use the 1/2" spade bit instead of 7/8?


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The ½” is the inside diameter. When your at the store and pick out what your going to use just measure it there and buy the right bit.

Brut force on the stuck bit. Don’t get me started on DeWalt drill chucks.


----------



## boba7523 (Aug 17, 2008)

Decided to go with the conduit route and bought a 4" long one, but although it's a little too long and 3-1/2" is a little too short... Couldn't find washers and nuts for the 1/2" inner diameter conduit so home depot associate told me to use a floor flange. I guess the extra length will give the beams a little room to wiggle so I can disassemble it like in the vid, and whereas if it was flush, the beams would be too tight. 


Will post pics of end result


----------

