# Peel stop / peel stop triple thick.



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...problem-solver/peeling-cracking/alligatoring/


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Peel Stop was Zinsser's original clear PENETRATING primer to combat old paint problems.
Then another company- XIM - introduced a very thick BRIDGING clear that has been very successful when used right.
So Zinsser came out with Peel Stop triple thick to go head to head with that.

Both the penetrating and the bridging have a place, but if it seems to be solid, just checkered/alligatoring- the triple thick might be a good solution. 
It will not be a miracle- but it will help. Follow directions.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Just used the triple thick last week but it was for peeling paint and I thought it worked very well. Thin it first with water, apply around edges of peeling paint, when dry apply straight. But I really don't see it working well for alligatoring.


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## 467piper (Aug 15, 2013)

ToolSeeker said:


> Just used the triple thick last week but it was for peeling paint and I thought it worked very well. Thin it first with water, apply around edges of peeling paint, when dry apply straight. But I really don't see it working well for alligatoring.


So you are saying you feel that it'll is more for where the paint was actually peeling and manual scraping and sanding left an edge that seams solid but should be locked down? Not so much for the plywood where it looks like someone tool a comb like scraper and removed lines of paint. A lt of the roof joists or rafters what ever you prefer I call them


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## 467piper (Aug 15, 2013)

ToolSeeker said:


> Just used the triple thick last week but it was for peeling paint and I thought it worked very well. Thin it first with water, apply around edges of peeling paint, when dry apply straight. But I really don't see it working well for alligatoring.


Sorry hit send. A lot of the roof joists or rafters holding up ply wood are more of a peel than alligatoring where large sections of paint scraped off to bare wood . 

If you don't like the triple thick for this problem then what would you use ?


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## moneypenny02 (Jan 8, 2014)

467piper said:


> So you are saying you feel that it'll is more for where the paint was actually peeling and manual scraping and sanding left an edge that seams solid but should be locked down? Not so much for the plywood where it looks like someone tool a comb like scraper and removed lines of paint. A lt of the roof joists or rafters what ever you prefer I call them


I'm bumping this question because I am interested in the answer also. If you've already used this product, I'm interested to hear what your experience was. 

Thanks!


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## mhfederoff (11 mo ago)

467piper said:


> Anybody have experience with either one or both of these, or another similar product? After watching a few how to videos I found peel stop being used to smooth out and seel rough cracked but not peeling areas. Basically every square inch of plywood under the eves of my house is (alegatoring is the only term I've heard it called) where I have scraped and sanded but these areas won't come off but clearly still have a texture that I don't want to see after I paint.
> 
> I'm not sure if it is illegal in CA because of some chemical in it but Home Depot web site has it but says it is not available in CA. The store has the triple thick version but its more expensive and haven't seen any good reviews like the regular version.
> 
> ...


Peel stop does exactly that. You can use this to stabilize the surface and then attempt to bridge or what ever to flatten the textured areas you need flattened. I have used it since it first came out in the 90's...


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

Welcome to the forums - please look at the dates on the threads in the future, this one is more than eight years old.


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