# Spa



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Cool, please let us see how it looks when it is finished, looks good so far.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Cool, please let us see how it looks when it is finished, looks good so far.


the spa comes this friday. plans are to build a gazebo like structure around the spa which will have some roll down privacy shades. i plan to put small tv out there too...


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

concrete_joe said:


> the spa comes this friday. plans are to build a gazebo like structure around the spa which will have some roll down privacy shades. i plan to put small tv out there too...


Man, that is going to be really nice, don't forget the pictures, we love the pictures.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Pictures, and an invitation.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Man, that is going to be really nice, don't forget the pictures, we love the pictures.


Spa comes tomorrow. i'll post some pics after. my whole backyard is a mess in DIY construction. and monday is 10.5yds of concrete patio. had to go white cement for the color i needed, using Helix in this mix.


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## Xykess (Oct 15, 2014)

I'm excited to see your spa updates.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

installed and running..... cover style tbd, this is a temp cover, but most likely will be a Covermate III


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

less than 24hrs old, keeping wet for a slow dry. Cemex didnt add Helix and pigment properly to truck, had a few small clumps come down the shute, other than that things seem to finish real nice with Helix in the mix.


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

A suggestion for your spa cover. If it's in the sun all day, it will deteriorate quickly and will start to absorb moisture from the spa, causing it to lose it's insulating abilities. Treat the exposed cover with 303 Aerospace Protectant. 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004ELKC4...lid=38N1FOXT6MWZ6&coliid=I10TGOV921PR9C&psc=1


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Dave Sal said:


> A suggestion for your spa cover. If it's in the sun all day, it will deteriorate quickly and will start to absorb moisture from the spa, causing it to lose it's insulating abilities. Treat the exposed cover with 303 Aerospace Protectant.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004ELKC4...lid=38N1FOXT6MWZ6&coliid=I10TGOV921PR9C&psc=1


303 is a great product, but i use a Mothers product that i think is as good as 303.


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## cleanlymaid (Nov 12, 2014)

Hey, just wanted to say great job on the install. I'm looking at doing something similar. It looks like you'll be having a lot of fun this year.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

cleanlymaid said:


> Hey, just wanted to say great job on the install. I'm looking at doing something similar. It looks like you'll be having a lot of fun this year.


i will have some more pics later today. we built up walls around the spa and added 1.25" thick travertine top.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

sorry, been busy trying to finish up the spa stuff. at this point the block walls w/ stucco are up and topped with 1.25" travertine which i diamond wet-polished to #800 in four steps. the hardest piece was cutting for around the cover lift bracket, took a couple of hours on that one to make it fit perfect the 1st time, etc. much of the natural pockets in the stone were filled with two different color grouts to try and keep that all-natural look, etc.


still need to do last coat of stucco and then paint the stucco. final grading of yard on monday, then i can build the fire pit (got a 24" clover leaf burner), then the low v lights & irrigation, and then finally some turf and pavers.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

in my post #14, see that gas line and electrical box...... pita, i have to move them. not for any code reasons, they are just in the way of other work i need to do. NEC doesnt allow splicing in raceway thus i have to re-pull ~120ft of feed wire, and then i have to re-pull some wire to the spa. did i say royal pita....

the current location was initially as shown because that corner of the yard was provisioned for pool equipment, but then we went with spa and i simply used the end of the runs to put the disco/breaker panel, which turns out to be in a very bad spot. nothing like doing work twice.... did i say royal pita.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

just an update..
so much going on, but here's some new work..

the maintenance pit (which is also an entry point into the spa) needed a removeable platform. i made some I beams out of 1½ x ½ x .125" 6063 channel, two pcs glued and screwed together, then topped with 0.75" pine strips (primed pine), the less wood the better. the wall got some 1x1x.125 angle with 2" concrete screws every 12". i will staple on some Tyvek (painted) to help keep water from just falling in, and then will attach some Trex. the whole thing is fairly lightweight, etc.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

just an update..
so much going on, but here's some new work..

the maintenance pit (which is also an entry point into the spa) needed a removeable platform. i made some I beams out of 1½ x ½ x .125" 6063 channel, two pcs glued and screwed together, then topped with 0.75" pine strips (primed pine), the less wood the better. the wall got some 1x1x.125 angle with 2" concrete screws every 12". i will staple on some Tyvek (painted) to help keep water from just falling in, and then will attach some Trex. the whole thing is fairly lightweight, etc.











i also relocated the electrical because it was in the way....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

just an update..
so much going on, but here's some new work..

the maintenance pit (which is also an entry point into the spa) needed a removeable platform. i made some I beams out of 1½ x ½ x .125" 6063 channel, two pcs glued and screwed together, then topped with 0.75" pine strips (primed pine), the less wood the better. the wall got some 1x1x.125 angle with 2" concrete screws every 12". i will staple on some Tyvek (painted) to help keep water from just falling in, and then will attach some Trex (trex will cover all the block tops). the whole thing is fairly lightweight, etc.











i also relocated the electrical because it was in the way....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

something way wrong with this site, every "edit" makes a new post....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

ok, did a final wet polish and then sealed w/ AquaMix Enrich 'N Seal (matte). it really pulls up the color, etc. i like it.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

some new work in the yard. gas co got my gas piping all hooked up to meter, so i started the fire pit, just a ring of mortar base which will get two layers of 8x4x16 block and then topped with same travertine i used on spa. the pit is 24" clover leaf burner so ID is 30". also added conduit under the ring so that i can get my low voltage lighting into this thing..... its progressing....

it shows funny in this pic, but its level in all directions, etc. that one section that looks odd color from the rest, well, i ran out of gray portland so i had to use some white portland in my mix (buckets at a time, etc). will dig the center down some and add 1" gravel for some drainage ability.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

concrete_joe said:


> ok, did a final wet polish and then sealed w/ AquaMix Enrich 'N Seal (matte). it really pulls up the color, etc. i like it.


Nice work.
One thing that bothers me though. How are you going to get at that thing for servicing?


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Bob Sanders said:


> Nice work.
> One thing that bothers me though. How are you going to get at that thing for servicing?


the far side (left in pic) that you cant see has service pit, ~27"x84" removable platform. the platform is full length of spa (see post #18), etc. i'll add some more pics soon.

if anything else besides the service panel area needs fixing inside, i am kinda screwed, etc. i did pay a good penny for this spa, hoping it is quality. one of the valves on top actually cracked the other day..... not sure why yet......


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

did 1st course of pit block, but then had to test out my burner.

75k btu penta-burner.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

2nd course going on. will then wrap this thing in some 1/4" material and fill the block.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

concrete_joe said:


> if anything else besides the service panel area needs fixing inside, i am kinda screwed, etc. i did pay a good penny for this spa, hoping it is quality. one of the valves on top actually cracked the other day..... not sure why yet......


Won't be any problem now (knock on wood) because it's new, but after time you do start springing leaks around the various jets and such. I made the mistake of building ours right against the house. Figured I had access to 3 of the 4 sides. What are the chances of a leak on the side against the house? As it turns out... pretty good!


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Bob Sanders said:


> Won't be any problem now (knock on wood) because it's new, but after time you do start springing leaks around the various jets and such. I made the mistake of building ours right against the house. Figured I had access to 3 of the 4 sides. What are the chances of a leak on the side against the house? As it turns out... pretty good!


i need to verify my warranty terms.......


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

block done, getting ready to fill.

need to add low voltage wiring for a few hidden lights.....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

just update, did the fill today. the build was

~1000lb of block
~1280lb of fill concrete
~320lb of footing concrete

the blocks on top are holding some plastic pill boxes in the crete, the boxes have my low voltage wiring in them for the lights.

i can say this, if you have bad back or joints that hurt, this is not the DIY for you. block and crete are hard on the body!

tip: if you need to form something with bends in it, 1/4" sheetrock that you wet down until it can bend w/o cracking, but careful, too wet and when you grab it the rock will crumble like wet potato chip.. the outer form was done yesterday, let dry overnight..... the fill was a very soupy mixture so its best to have the form as dry as possible, etc.

and, its not done yet, need to screw on some stucco mesh, add stucco, and add the travertine top.... then paint stucco...... its a process.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

why did you use the blocks in the fire pit install?


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

nap said:


> why did you use the blocks in the fire pit install?


i was anticipating this Q. any concerns you have with using block?

just a choice to not have to mix so much concrete, and, to get some more DIY experience at doing block. i kinda dislike doing both, etc.

its not a wood burning pit, its a gas burner.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

concrete_joe said:


> i was anticipating this Q. any concerns you have with using block?
> 
> just a choice to not have to mix so much concrete, and, to get some more DIY experience at doing block. i kinda dislike doing both, etc.
> 
> its not a wood burning pit, its a gas burner.


No, no concerns. Just curious. Just thought you had some reason or purpose behind it.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

removed the forms and added the mesh yesterday. mesh is better here, even if its portland stucco over portland base, temp swings are high here so the mesh keeps things "on". although still deciding if this pit will get tile instead of stucco. also picked up the travertine......


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

next update.
had to build a ledge for my stainless burner pan. long story short is, had to improvise a solution using pinning and cement technique. they make pan liners that you can mortar in, but what i have here didnt cost me anything except a little bit of my time. 

also added scratch stucco (fiber reinforced). the mesh + fiber stucco really locks things up tight so that temp swings will do minimal carnage, etc. 

dug out center about another 3" deeper (to be filled back up with 1" gravel), and dumped 5gal of bug control in there to keep the nasty's away, etc.

in some future posts i will highlight some DIY tips for cheap landscape lighting (with PWM controls), you wont believe what you can do for ~$8.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

next update.

my wife wanted some flowers on fire pit, we couldnt find what we wanted,so we made them. each of 4 are positioned under the lights. did shape in CAD, made template in luan, cut the travertine on my router table. the centers get some cool glass tile....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

next update

finished spa stucco and painting


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Dang, Joe..You must want to heat up the whole hood.?

What's in the plans for the yard.?


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

the yard will be finished with walkways, turf, and some planting areas, along with some landscape lighting. i have ~700sq.ft. of pavers to use somehow, but the areas around spa and firepit will get travertine pavers like i have on spa and fire pit. will likely use pavers to line things, and then perhaps finish some area on side of house (where we keep yard gear and stuff, etc). the spa will be covered by a gazebo

we tried to work in a bocce court, just not anywhere long enough.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Sounds great, will we get to see it.?
You know, I'm 51 yrs. young and have never heard of a bocce court, I had to look it up.....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

i'll take pics of it all.
and sure, no matter how smart we think we are there's always something new to learn 

bocce is leisurely chat with some brew, etc. just wont fit in my yard though... i need to move after all this work is done :wink:


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
finished fab'ing the stainless burner pan. i had some extra 1/8" stainless sheet and figured i needed to stop letting it collect dust. this is a 3pc setup. the center has a removable disc which houses a fitting for flex line and burner to attach to. the center small disc is screwed to the large pan by way of some stainless 8-32 screws. i had provided some pins in the ledge so that the disc cant spin as the burner is screwed in. its all overkill for a burner pan, but hey, DIY'ing is fun......... fire glass will be here in just a few days.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
finished gluing in the glass tile to fire pit flowers. actually looks really nice, the boss is the designer, i just build it, etc.

this glass (pool glass) is a tad odd, its back cut on all edges at 45 degrees, makes me think they will just want to pop out of the thinset. i need to grout it, and then will see if they hold when it gets to be 105F(ambient).


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
my fire glass and whistle-free flex line arrived yesterday. now i have stuff waiting to go in (need to complete stucco and top before these other items can go in, etc)

we went with 50lbs of amber 1/2"-1" for base, and then will top that with 10lb of 1/4" reflective copper.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
did some travertine cutting, but cant finish until next week because i need to work on some water and electrical lines so that my planter wall can be built (by someone else btw, just strapped for time, needed additional hands, etc).

1st step is rough cut (thank goodness for CAD, otherwise finding the right dimensions for cutting would be a pita), then i will trim the long seams, they will be set in place, and then the radii will be cut to final dimension. seams will be grouted, and the whole things diamond polished up to about 800, then sealed (using a different sealer this time). dry cutting this stuff is like standing in a cloud of talc, lucky for me the wind was up some....


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

concrete_joe said:


> dry cutting this stuff is like standing in a cloud of talc, lucky for me the wind was up some....


Why wouldn't you wet cut this?


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Jim F said:


> Why wouldn't you wet cut this?


i wish i could have, i dont have a wet saw big enough (my 7" wet saw table will accommodate about a 12x12 tile). did all the cutting by hand with 4.5" dry blade on my angle grinder (my angle grinder would likely shock me and/or burn up if i used water). its not too bad, i cut about 3-4ths the way deep, tap off the pieces and then finish grinding the edge. thank goodness for CAD to get the cut lines right.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
started to build my outdoor kitchen. a tad trickey given the concrete patio slopes with a 5" diff from end to end (left to right in this pic)


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
a little more kitchen framing today, but now i'm tired.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update
planter wall folks started today, put the footing in. also did some more work on kitchen. should have all the framing done by saturday, possibly some of the sheathing too. its all 20ga and braced for the atomic bomb. 12" on center for anything that will carry weight of 1.5" thick concrete counter top. and yep, this steel is bonded down to a gnd rod and service gnd. we decided to not put green egg here, it takes up too much room, thus i need to figure out where my g egg will go. and, i am still deciding if i should mesh it before stucco, or skip the mesh.

picture window view


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
hit the fire pit with 2nd scratch coat today. tomorrow will be the fine coat, monday primer, tuesday paint, then i start to set the top.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
pressed for time, primer and painted today. one step closer to done.


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

That's an elaborate fire pit. Can't wait to see what it looks like finished.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Jim F said:


> That's an elaborate fire pit. *Can't wait to see what it looks like finished*.


hah, me too.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
building out of the fire pit low voltage lighting.
i mentioned a few post back that i had some tips for cheap low voltage lighting. i am building my own 12v dc system for supply (a 4 channel, 5A per channel supply, with independent controls for each channel). for the fire pit i had to fabricate my own lights. using automotive LED lighting opens the door for not only supply and type, but for creativity since automotive lighting (12vdc in general) is flooded with all sorts of stuff.

what i have here are fuse style 3-chip LED bulbs. i made the holders, which will be inset into the bottom side of the travertine that caps the fire pit. i also found online some already-made 12vdc PWM controllers w/ Rf remote. these controllers do 256 levels of PWM (dimming), and has other modes that can be used. the 4 channel supply will have provisions to connect this controller to control each channel (a basic PWM driver into power mosfet, etc). other than these lights i had to make, i will find inexpensive landscape fixtures for the rest of the yard.

why you ask? because what i wanted was the FX-Luminaire Luxor, but after talking to those folks the product is ridiculous in many ways. i dont like how the controls work (each light is special to be able to work with the supply), and pricing of a single light is about on-par with how much it will cost me to build my whole system myself! the FX supply and all the lights needed is probably 10-20x more $$ than my own built system. i will probably be in that $200 range to complete my 12vdc lighting system.

these 4 lights, 120mA total, can power these from a small lead-acid battery if i wanted to, recharge bat with a very small solar pad, but i will use poco power for my system since the whole thing will be just pennies per night (if that much).


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
cut the radii by hand (made template of radius and then transferred that to stone with pencil, then cut just outside the line, etc).

the grout lines are a tad bigger than i wanted them to be, but it still works just fine. because they are so big, each line has a stainless steel wire, and, since the grout extends over the edge 1" i put a SS wire loop at that end to help support the grout, etc.

fire pit travertine in the polishing stages. did 3 rounds today (50/100/200), hopefully can finish polishing today, will take this one to 1000 or 1500.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
today is the day the pit gets finished. here's the LED lights controller. bought the Rf controller from am-zon for $4. its a nifty PWM controller (for you electronics folks, it has nice square wave PWM, but the output needs a pull-down when using this for say gate of mosfet, etc). 

i am using cheap connectors, but if you build something like this and you are in wet location be sure to use gold plated connectors.

so basically, 12vdc supply feeds it, and my 4 led lights simply plug in. made to be easily removed if it fails, etc. and btw, the PWM controller says "12A" for output, which is BS, the wire size is maybe good for 2A(max). this is somewhat waterproof (silicone in there, etc).


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
finished polishing. note to self, stop at 800grit, 1500 leaves swirl marks.
finished sealing
finished adding the LED controller & wires (no power just yet)
added the fire glass (1" amber topped with 1/4" copper reflective)
need to clean the outside later

... and, my four MinkaAire F574-orb fans arrived yesterday, will have those up mid next week (having someone run the conduit/wire for me).

fully operational,........... and now i am back to building the kitchen.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

It's coming along nicely. Thanks for the updates!


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

gma2rjc said:


> It's coming along nicely. Thanks for the updates!


there's just so much going on.

ran the pit last night as a trial run, all seems good. 

this is wide open


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
fabricated ceiling fan mounts and got planter wall built (still need to set two block for banco seat back, will be cut into an arch, etc). the electrician who is doing the conduit for me couldnt make it today censored, so a day behind on that piece of it. EMT will be run and then i will take down the brackets and have them powder coated. wall is 8x4x16 blocks to maximize use of space, rebar from footing every 4ft, and then rebar in every core, every core filled with concrete. backside of wall will be graded for drainage and then appropriate plastic/gravel so water can flow properly to some drain holes.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Man, their going to name that Fort Joe..


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
got 1st coat of 1-kote stucco onto the wall. electrical conduit was ran today. tomorrow we pull wires. nice about this setup, no jbox's at fans to worry about, EMT right into the base plate.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
wires pulled yesterday, inspector here just a few min ago, good to close it up. brackets off to powder coating.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,

put fans up (problem with remote control with 4 fans, working on a solution), and finished the business end of the kitchen. left side is dbl burner and dbl drawer under that, then 32" grill with 30" dbl door under that, then 3-drawer on right. went with the PCM 260R series of SS. the connecting side (right side in pic) has 1-drawer on left, 30" dbl door in center, 1-drawer on right (sink in corner), then another turn for a Blaze 4.1cu.ft fridge.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
yard is getting into the hardscape. finally got to shape out the banco (by hand cut). made template out of osb then painted that to the back, then cut. the trick is to fill the cores just high enough (just below the cut line) and add some rebar in there. both sides are cut with diamond blade and then the pieces are gently knocked off, then grind any excess down, etc. next few days this planter wall should be completed.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
starting to close in the kitchen island. found that burning through some coarse wood jigsaw blades is the easiest way to handle this cement board. dremel with thin grinding disc keeps the teeth as new as possible until there's nothing left, and then onto the next blade. easier than making mess with circ saw (i have a mini cordless, its makes a mess).


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
some progress on the kitchen


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

concrete_joe said:


> update,
> wires pulled yesterday, inspector here just a few min ago, good to close it up. brackets off to powder coating.


why didn't you made a wood mount to match your roof wood so you didn't even use the brackets. Even something as simply as a cross piece of matching wood to attach the fan base directly to. To me they look kind of tacky compared to the rest of your construct.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

nap said:


> why didn't you made a wood mount to match your roof wood so you didn't even use the brackets. Even something as simply as a cross piece of matching wood to attach the fan base directly to. To me they look kind of tacky compared to the rest of your construct.


in post #64?? we thought about wood, but after careful consideration would have been too "boxy" looking. the brackets as they are does give it a tad industrial look and the fans seem to float. pros & cons, etc. the brackets are coated in about same color as the fan base, so color wise they look like about the same. also, the hammered metal tubing is same tubing i used on the tables i made, so some matching of materials is there, and, the powder coating also matches existing seating furniture.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

two pics from different angles (close by), from a distance across the patio you cant really see the brackets because they are mounted a tad higher than bottom of the rafters. does this angle of view of the brackets look bad?


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
found a working/acceptable solution to fix this remote/controller issue. went ahead with the Fanimation BTCR9 and BTR9 bluetooth controllers, and use the fanSync app on my android and iphone in addition to the mini Rf remote. across the 48ft span the controls work ok outside, but not enough power from inside house to control them..... the mini remote can still get the lighting out-of-sync but the fanSync app fixes that....... pros and cons to everything.

the only thing i didnt see yet is a way to group fans together in fanSync app, Fanimation guy told me it was possible, but i think he was wrong.



concrete_joe said:


> update,
> 
> put fans up (problem with remote control with 4 fans, working on a solution),


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
kitchen ready for scratch stucco, followed by concrete top, and then final stucco coat. the hump was a time-pita, they didnt have 1-5/8 flex track so i had to nip a piece of 25ga about 100x so i could get the flex i needed. the floor should be stained and epoxied next week.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update,
so much cooking. filled planter wall with soil, ran the irrigation and 12vdc in planter, some weed fabric, and a few plants. kitchen has scratch coat on, now getting ready for the concrete countertop using Z edge forms (ogee profile), using quikrete mix (-81) and will be adding 4 colored aggregates to the mix (pearl/alabaster, amber mica, bronze mica, and a green glass). this should be interesting.....


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

some more progress, been slow because i had to move ~19k lbs of pavers over last couple of weeks. but this weekend is concrete pour for this top. adding various glass and mica to it too. 10" canterlever on two sides.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update -
got the concrete poured in, no easy task, definitely a 4 person job, but i only had the boss to help me. done w/ some minor imperfections (which will disappear during the finishing stages). reinforcements were placed in problem areas, but we shall see what happens, a crack here or there is not something we will fret over. used the small mixer from HF which worked just fine but only one 80lb bag can be mixed at a time.

Tip A#1 - on a top this size its best to work from one end to the other filling the top completely as you go along, and vibrate any forms as you go, then vibrate forms again after you filled the whole thing with crete. 

Tip A#2 - use ice bath water for mixing as it slows the hydration process down giving you more time to work with the material. i used a 7:1 ratio of water to Sika Latex-R fortifier (fortifier take place of water, do not add extra liquid to the required dose of water, etc). hence, my 80lb bags called for 1gal, so it was 7pints water and 1pint fortifier. we added some glass and mica to the mix which requires a tad more water, but that is fine tuning it as it mixes, etc.

Tip #3 - definitely experiment with sampling before committing to the whole batch. i did 8 12x12x3 blocks using various Quikrete colors w/ varying doses. we settled on 0.25fl.oz of the brown dye per 80lb bag.

did some slurry filling on the edges and then 60grit dry orbital just to knock off some of that powder surface. next weekend will likely be stucco finish coat and then i will start the wet polishing. the final product should be stunning.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update -
so much still going on. the patio finally getting finished. after trials of surface color and technique we found it to be a no-go, just didnt get us what we were after (matching a tile color-pattern). however, some diamond polishing sampling did. yep, this is as close a match as we can get. sucky part is, i am diamond polishing 50grit with my 5" wet polisher, 160sq.ft. at a time, then sealing it at 3am. in total, about 750sq.ft. of polishing. back breaking work but results are there.

as for concrete countertop, almost done there. adding lithium silicate densifier and hitting it with 800 before sealing. it didnt come out perfect but should suffice for the needs. two corner cracks have occurred but were expected, not very noticeable.

also working on the steel posts for spa cover/roof. posts in pic have been cut down about 16" to final dimensions. i dont set footings at same heights, i simply use taller than needed posts and then run a rotary laser to get reference marks on all posts, then all are cut to same height, etc.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:
after some back breaking work finally on last stage of finish work (on the patio).


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:
getting into the last stage of paving (not me doing this paving this time, just didnt have the time). installed 3 of the 4 columns today, still working on the 4th one (lots of welding details to accommodate brackets and wiring, etc). will install 4th column and do wiring tomorrow.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:

from the last post you see the columns, thats just the bare metal. i got the 4th pole in and did the wiring, and finally did the rusting process.

tip - dont but that "instant rust" stuff, just make it. here's a recipe you can easily adjust:
1cup white vinegar
1cup hydrogen peroxide
(you can try a 4:1 ratio of vinegar to peroxide to start with)
1tbsp salt
3cup water (less water means stronger solution, etc, but this recipe works just fine for me)

put in spray bottle, shake, spray on bare steel, watch the magic happen. gloves and eye protection recommended. depending on the look you want you spray it a few times, too heavy and the runs will leave rusty run marks. i leave it on for a few hours and then mist down with garden hose, let dry, assess, redo as needed. then after it dries completely i seal it with solvent based Helmsman spar urethane (very light coatings, otherwise it runs).

i didnt finish urethane on all of them (sun came up too fast), but the post closest to you in 1st pic is coated. the urethane turns it a nice dark rusty-brown color.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:
travertine almost done, and kitchen is fully functional (need to add backsplash tile and connect the outlets)


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Wow....looking really nice!!!


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:
finished installing the pole lights, and w/ firepit lights hooked them into my bench power supply to see what they look like


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:
finally got to do bbq backsplash yesterday. just need to seal it today and add outlets/covers. travertine subway with bronze glass inserts.


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## Beachfront (Aug 5, 2015)

concrete_joe said:


> update:
> finished installing the pole lights, and w/ firepit lights hooked them into my bench power supply to see what they look like


The backyard really looks like its coming together! I love what you did with the lighting, it will really pop when everything is finished. :thumbup:


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Beachfront said:


> The backyard really looks like its coming together! I love what you did with the lighting, it will really pop when everything is finished. :thumbup:


the pic is missing the turf, had that installed a day after i took lights pic. really looks nice with the turf installed.

the yard is missing many lights, those were the only ones i had available to light up. once completed (with PWM wifi controller) it should really be sweet. and to note, all of the lighting is down-lighting because we need to be "dark-sky" compliant (hoa). i will have a few up-lights though.

i am getting my shade sail brackets from the sand-blaster today (i had to make them), will rust them and poly them, shade sail will be up this weekend. the columns were not made for a shade sail so i have to put up some temp cross pieces between the columns to keep them from bending inward when sail tension is applied. its a temp solution until i build the real roof for the spa using hybrid metal truss system. 

spa water is a tad warm these days (106F air temps today), i need to connect spa piping into my underground cooling system, probably wont have this done until next summer though.

currently working on a custom metal gate (approx 5ft w x 6ft h), and, building a custom fountain out of the cutoffs i have from the columns (3pcs welded together and each has a fountain spout with LED light ring). 1st time building a fountain, so we shall see how it turns out.

kitchen backsplash (sealing tile & outlets) 100% completed.


will post more pics as they become available.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

built one side of end walls for a new metal gate. i am done with lead molly's, made some 3" deep T fasteners for gate to bolt to (flanged nut welded to tube and a end plate to prevent turning, 0.5"-13tpi). block cores filled with concrete, and rebar into footing. this side has a few ties back to the existing wall.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

update:

finished a few items, a few others still in the works

new 3-spout water fountain. made it from scraps. at powder coater to get done up









some captive hardware i had to make for column cross members









shade sail up (temp solution)


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

some newer pics:
today i got to balance the 4 fans and do some cleaning on the stainless doors and drawers. also finished re-painting the spa/firepit/banco. my diy fountain is powder coated, just waiting on a 12vdc pump to arrive.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

the results from post #87. this item is all 12vdc.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

an evening pic with some flashes in the sky. the lighting is a tad over exposed due to me using low ISO on my rebel.


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## dhd42 (May 23, 2011)

Wow, I just got my first look at your work and I'm really blown away with what you have done here. I would love to see more completed photos of the work if you ever have a chance.
Thanks for posting and sharing your work.
Dave


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

dhd42 said:


> Wow, I just got my first look at your work and I'm really blown away with what you have done here. I would love to see more completed photos of the work if you ever have a chance.
> Thanks for posting and sharing your work.
> Dave


here are pics 11-16


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

dhd42 said:


> Wow, I just got my first look at your work and I'm really blown away with what you have done here. I would love to see more completed photos of the work if you ever have a chance.
> Thanks for posting and sharing your work.
> Dave


Hi Dave, here are some pics from today. I am working on finishing the steel gate I made. I still need to add in the low V lighting, the misting system, and do a few other minor things. Thus far it has been an awesome backyard for relaxing and/or entertaining. Just bought a 43" LCD/LED tv from B&H photo on a sale deal, will be creating a rolling cart (credenza) to house a TV lift, along with 48vdc Li-ion bat packs with true-sine inverter, TV uses Miracast to another portable wifi device so I can watch TV anywhere in the yard w/o the need for power cord, 100% wireless, etc. I might add a receiver and small bookshelf speakers if space permits. I will post pics of this later.

here are pics 1-10


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Wow! Concrete Joe, that is absolutely beautiful - like something in a magazine, only better. Thanks for the update pictures.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

here's the side gate i made. rebar for the ocotillo stems, found some already cut leaves and hummingbird. the finish is my natural rust recipe and then urethane. i did not want to get my spray gear dirty for this gate so i just brushed urethane on, and as such the brush strokes kinda show, but it doesnt really matter, this is a side gate that is not often seen. for a gate that would been seen more, or if this was for someone else, almost definitely the final finish would be sprayed on. w/o having a roller, i can tell you that putting an arc into a piece of square tube is a pita. as for function, swings nice and smooth.


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## Prince_Timean (Apr 1, 2016)

Wow your project is beautiful!
What about lighting?


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

Prince_Timean said:


> Wow your project is beautiful!
> What about lighting?


yes, working on low v lighting now. power is from a few DIN mount industrial DC power supplies (so i dont have to make them). there are several zones of lighting with each being controlled by a wifi enabled controller, so i basically can set lighting profiles and programs, and each zone is controlled by PWM for light levels. all the lighting is LED so it's really low power and efficient. other than the retrofit of the lights on gazebo poles, all of the lighting is almost 100% COTS components. i have to finish off some paver behind the gate, and then i am onto lighting in parallel with my wireless (batt powered) ~4.7 mega-joule rolling credenza :surprise: <-- that's geek talk for 200watt for about 6hr.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)




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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

some more pics. have not been focused on some of the remaining items to tackle, been doing some other things, but, will soon be back doing backyard stuff


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