# Energy Star Qualified Asphalt roofing shingles?



## Scuba_Dave

So is anyone installing these for 2009/10 to qualify for the 30% Tax credit?

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits

http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=roof_prods.pr_roof_products


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## pcampbell

I am in the market for a new roof......and would love our attic to be cooler.


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## Ed the Roofer

Here is the list of current shingles.

The full list is 116 pages long and has a lot of roof coatings and metal roof panel systems though.

Ed



*Energy Star Rated Roofing Products

http://downloads.energystar.gov/bi/qplist/roofs_prod_list.pdf*

CertainTeed
Corporation CertainTeed
Landmark
Solaris Max Def
Burnt Sienna Shingles 0.26 0.27 0.91 N Y N 40

CertainTeed
Corporation CertainTeed
Landmark
Solaris Max Def
Heather Blend Shingles 0.25 0.27 0.93 N Y N 40


CertainTeed
Corporation CertainTeed
Landmark
Solaris Max Def
Resawn Shake Shingles 0.26 0.28 0.88 N Y N 40


CertainTeed
Corporation CertainTeed
Landmark
Solaris Max Def
Weathered
Wood Shingles 0.25 0.27 0.90 N Y N 40


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Marquis
WeatherMax
(White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y 30


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Royal Sovereign
Shingles (White) Shingles 0.27 0.29 0.91 N Y 25


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Sentinel
Shingles (White) Shingles 0.27 0.29 0.91 N Y N 20


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Timberline
Prestique 30
(White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y N 30


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Timberline
Prestique 40
(Cool Antique
Slate) Shingles 0.27 0.25 0.92 N Y N 40



GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Timberline
Prestique 40
(Cool Barkwood) Shingles 0.27 0.26 0.92 N Y N 40

GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Timberline
Prestique 40
(Cool
Weathered
Wood) Shingles 0.26 0.25 0.92 N Y N 40


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Timberline
Prestique 40
(White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y N 40


GAF Materials
Corporation GAFElk
Timberline
Prestique
Lifetime (White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y Lifetime


Owens Corning 
Owens Corning Classic Shingles 0.26 0.25 0.90 N Y N 20

Owens Corning 
Owens Corning Supreme Shingles 0.26 0.28 0.90 N Y N 25


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## pcampbell

Are the EnergyStar roofing shingles a lot more expensive?


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## Ed the Roofer

Several of them are just the regular basic 3 tab shingles and I am still awaiting pricing and availability on the other upper end versions.

Ed


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## jervin1

I am in Shreveport, LA and am interested in purchasing a Energy Star qualified roof. Does anyone know where I can purchase Energy Star qualified Asphalt Shingles? Would some place like Home Depot or Lowe's carry these? Thanks.


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## Ed the Roofer

Ed the Roofer said:


> Here is the list of current shingles.
> 
> The full list is 116 pages long and has a lot of roof coatings and metal roof panel systems though.
> 
> Ed
> 
> 
> 
> *Energy Star Rated Roofing Products
> 
> http://downloads.energystar.gov/bi/qplist/roofs_prod_list.pdf*
> 
> CertainTeed
> Corporation CertainTeed
> Landmark
> Solaris Max Def
> Burnt Sienna Shingles 0.26 0.27 0.91 N Y N 40
> 
> CertainTeed
> Corporation CertainTeed
> Landmark
> Solaris Max Def
> Heather Blend Shingles 0.25 0.27 0.93 N Y N 40
> 
> 
> CertainTeed
> Corporation CertainTeed
> Landmark
> Solaris Max Def
> Resawn Shake Shingles 0.26 0.28 0.88 N Y N 40
> 
> 
> CertainTeed
> Corporation CertainTeed
> Landmark
> Solaris Max Def
> Weathered
> Wood Shingles 0.25 0.27 0.90 N Y N 40
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Marquis
> WeatherMax
> (White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y 30
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Royal Sovereign
> Shingles (White) Shingles 0.27 0.29 0.91 N Y 25
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Sentinel
> Shingles (White) Shingles 0.27 0.29 0.91 N Y N 20
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Timberline
> Prestique 30
> (White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y N 30
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Timberline
> Prestique 40
> (Cool Antique
> Slate) Shingles 0.27 0.25 0.92 N Y N 40
> 
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Timberline
> Prestique 40
> (Cool Barkwood) Shingles 0.27 0.26 0.92 N Y N 40
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Timberline
> Prestique 40
> (Cool
> Weathered
> Wood) Shingles 0.26 0.25 0.92 N Y N 40
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Timberline
> Prestique 40
> (White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y N 40
> 
> 
> GAF Materials
> Corporation GAFElk
> Timberline
> Prestique
> Lifetime (White) Shingles 0.29 0.29 0.85 N Y Lifetime
> 
> 
> Owens Corning
> Owens Corning Classic Shingles 0.26 0.25 0.90 N Y N 20
> 
> Owens Corning
> Owens Corning Supreme Shingles 0.26 0.28 0.90 N Y N 25





jervin1 said:


> I am in Shreveport, LA and am interested in purchasing a Energy Star qualified roof. Does anyone know where I can purchase Energy Star qualified Asphalt Shingles? Would some place like Home Depot or Lowe's carry these? Thanks.


Read the list posted above and see if the suppliers carry any of those styles from those manufacturers.

Ed


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## pcampbell

I got a quote from a local place, and they are telling me that only the Shasta White 3 tab "Ownes Corning" supreme shingles qualify except for some of the high high end shingles that are only availability in California/Nevada.

EDIT: Owens Corning website confirms this.

Wouldn't it make more sense, here in the Northeast, to have a black roof and have it be warmer in the winter, since it's easier to cool from say, 90 to 70, than to heat from 30 to 65????


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## Scuba_Dave

pcampbell said:


> Wouldn't it make more sense, here in the Northeast, to have a black roof and have it be warmer in the winter, since it's easier to cool from say, 90 to 70, than to heat from 30 to 65????


That was my thinking
We should get rebates for using black shingles
I very rarely use AC


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## Ed the Roofer

What color is the Black roof when covered with 10 inches of snow?

Ed


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## Scuba_Dave

Ed the Roofer said:


> What color is the Black roof when covered with 10 inches of snow?
> 
> Ed


It's still black :huh: :laughing:


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## pcampbell

When it's covered with snow, not sure it matters what color it is . These shingles are not EnergyStar for their insulating value, but for their ability to not attract and retain heat, I think...

They do have some ones for California/Nevada that look nice, but the white 3 tab ones that qualify here in NJ are ugly and also do not have the anti-algae stuff.

I might look into a metal roof though.


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## Ed the Roofer

Scuba_Dave said:


> It's still black :huh:


The point is, which I am sure you were aware of, is that the surface color is now white from snow, so the color of the shingle does not matter at that point.

If the roof color is visible through a lighter snow pack, then the darker colors woud attract and retain more of the heat from the sun and melt the snow more rapidly.

Ed


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## Scuba_Dave

pcampbell said:


> When it's covered with snow, not sure it matters what color it is . These shingles are not EnergyStar for their insulating value, but for their ability to not attract and retain heat, I think...
> 
> They do have some ones for California/Nevada that look nice, but the white 3 tab ones that qualify here in NJ are ugly and also do not have the anti-algae stuff.
> 
> I might look into a metal roof though.


Actually the point is that here in the snowy North we WANT black shingles to soak up the sun & heat. In most cases once the sun hits it the snow melts very quickly
If we were to use white/light shingles then it would not melt as fast
Most winters my roof is black the majority of the time

Our heating period is MUCH longer then any cooling period
So much in fact that I use an AC only a few times for a few house in the summer


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## micheleh

Yes, it does seem that the tax credit is really only for reflective surfaces rather than energy efficiency across the board. I live in Florida, and the windows that qualify for the credit here are still single pane. The energy star link for roof products posted by the earlier reviewer states that 40 billion is spent annually on AC by Americans.


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## pcampbell

unfortunately i gave up on the energy star roof.

the white was hideous, and the metal was too expensive.

oh well.


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## jogr

pcampbell said:


> unfortunately i gave up on the energy star roof.
> 
> the white was hideous, and the metal was too expensive.
> 
> oh well.


These don't look to bad. I was afraid the only choice would be bright white but there seems to be at least some shade choices:
http://www.gaf.com/Content/GAF/RES1/ROOF/cool_color.asp?viewer=
Were they not available in your area?

Ed, you put on a lot of roofs every year. Are these GAF Prestique ok? If you had to choose which energy star dimensional would you prefer?


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## pcampbell

I was told they are not available here in NJ.


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## Ed the Roofer

jogr said:


> These don't look to bad. I was afraid the only choice would be bright white but there seems to be at least some shade choices:
> http://www.gaf.com/Content/GAF/RES1/ROOF/cool_color.asp?viewer=
> Were they not available in your area?
> 
> Ed, you put on a lot of roofs every year. Are these GAF Prestique ok? If you had to choose which energy star dimensional would you prefer?


I heard decent things about them when they were the ELK version for the Energy Star Rating, but nothing so far since the GAF take over.

I haven't put any Energy Star rated shingles on yet.

Price point and suppliers not even knowing about them so far has been the biggest draw backs.

Ed


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## apkole

Ed,

I was at a distributor seminar a couple of weeks ago, and the Certainteed reps indicated a price north of $160/sq. for qualifying shingles. Is that about what you are hearing?


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## Ed the Roofer

Which way is North regarding a price? :laughing:

I presume you mean slightly higher than that amount, right?

They were so much more expensive, I didn't even bother trying to remember the cost, because the majority of my local area is middle class blue collar families who need a good roof, even if it costs more for value, but Not an Expensive roof.

At least not yet.

Ed


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## RadiantRoofer

Scuba_Dave said:


> Actually the point is that here in the snowy North we WANT black shingles to soak up the sun & heat. In most cases once the sun hits it the snow melts very quickly
> If we were to use white/light shingles then it would not melt as fast
> Most winters my roof is black the majority of the time


Sounds like it is time to invest in some insulation.


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## Scuba_Dave

RadiantRoofer said:


> Sounds like it is time to invest in some insulation.


If I didn't have insulation the snow would melt faster :whistling2:

This is about snow melting on the roof due to sunshine hitting a black roof
Nothing to do with insulation


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## MJW

We get plenty of snow. The darker roofs melt off so much faster. No different than asphalt compared to concrete driveway. The concrete is often icy, but the asphalt melts and dries much quicker.

The white roofs are almost worthless anywhere up here, IMO.


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## HandyJim

Ed the Roofer - just curious...

Isn't the cooling efficiency of your standard roof more a factor of ventilation than of roof color?

I was under the impression that, given proper ventilation, the attic space should be within 10 degrees of the outside ambient temperature, and that the airflow in the attic space is driven by the heat generated by the sun on the roof - in which case, a reflective roof wouldn't generate as much air flow.

If that is generally true, isn't it unfair to everyone only to include reflective colors without consideration that a proper re-roof job should also ensure proper soffit vent to ridge vent ratio for efficient attic ventilation? Won't a proper re-roof result in reduced cooling costs regardless of color?

Is this a case of bureaucratic incompetence and misplaced priorities or am I all wet?


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## RadiantRoofer

Scuba_Dave said:


> If I didn't have insulation the snow would melt faster :whistling2:
> 
> This is about snow melting on the roof due to sunshine hitting a black roof
> Nothing to do with insulation


How do you suppose the sun know that your roof is a dark color under all that snow??

You are right though when you say "If I didn't have insulation the snow would melt faster" However if you had more wouldn't it melt slower??


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## RadiantRoofer

HandyJim said:


> Isn't the cooling efficiency of your standard roof more a factor of ventilation than of roof color?


I think ventilation is critical to removing the hot moist air from an attic space, but I think the sell of the Energy star shingles is that it reduces the build up of heat. And it seems to make sense that although removing the heat is good, reducing the heat buildup altogether is better.


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## Scuba_Dave

RadiantRoofer said:


> How do you suppose the sun know that your roof is a dark color under all that snow??
> 
> You are right though when you say "If I didn't have insulation the snow would melt faster" However if you had more wouldn't it melt slower??


Ridge melts 1st, top portion of the roof snow does not stick usually due to wind & also rafter vents letting out minimally heated air
As well as the edges of the roof
So, yes a black/dark roof DOES a make a difference
Just like the blacktop on the driveway melts faster


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## RadiantRoofer

Scuba_Dave said:


> Actually the point is that here in the snowy North we WANT black shingles to soak up the sun & heat.


At first glance, you might think you want a hot attic space, I've even heard of people blocking their attic vents to trap the heat in, in the winter. But that is actually really bad for your home, it keeps moist air in the attic and can condense on the cool sheathing and this puts water in your attic. This can create a mold problem and get your insulation wet. Once insulation gets wet or moist it becomes a very poor insulator, so it's not working nearly as well as it should.

Also you would create the potential for ice damming to occur at the eaves where it is cooler. 

Attics aren't meant to help heat the house that is why insulation is so important.


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## Scuba_Dave

What attic ? I don't have an attic

And who said I wanted a hot attic or unvented ?
I want the shingles to soak up heat & melt snow

And my friends Attic is fully insulated & sheetrocked & DOES help keep the house warmer

Wow...over 17,000 views...
I guess some people are interested in the shingles


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## brons2

How did we get from Energy Star qualified shingles to arguing about which melts snow faster? I could care less about how fast snow melts, only seen it a couple of times down here in south central Texas. But I would like to know what shingles dissipate heat faster. Also which ones are hail resistant. I am considering a metal roof next time though. Lots of people around here have them for their hail resistance and heat reflectivity.


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## RadiantRoofer

Scuba_Dave said:


> What attic ? I don't have an attic
> 
> 
> I want the shingles to soak up heat & melt snow


I apologize I must be missing the point Dave, I thought I was helping clear up the misconception that a hot attic space is better for the winter. 

but now I'm curious why is it important to you to melt the snow on your roof?

Is it because of snow load? I assume not because you mentioned it usually blows off.

Again I'm sorry for the confusion. I just want the people who come online for information to not walk away confused and with misinformation.


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## Scuba_Dave

I prefer a roof without snow
With as much as 90" of snow in some years I'd rather not have any chance of any build up
Why *would* you want snow to build up on your roof ?
Sun hits the back of my house & warms up the siding - slate blue
That warm air rises up into the soffits (2' overhang), I've measured 50 degree air on a sunny day

I think people with uninsulated attics are missing the boat
Which would you prefer, a space that can dip to single digit temps, or a space that stays 40-60 ?
My 2nd floor is under renovation, not fully insulated & not sheetrocked
The ceiling of the 1st floor has R25
The 2nd floor stays about 40-60 degrees depending upon the outside temp
I do not expect to really heat the 2nd floor once finished
I'll be happy if it never goes over 60 in the winter (wife won't :laughing: )
For heated air to "get out" it has to go thru the 1st floor ceiling w/R25
Tyen it has to go thru the 2nd floor ceiling with R38

You say to vent an attic & keep it cold
Is a basement vented & kept cold ?
No, but my basement will have more moisture then any attic

My garage will be insulated & unheated, I expect it to stay 40-60 out there
My 3 season porch will be insulated & unheated, I expect warmer Temps
I have a greenhouse off the back of the house, still some work to do
On a sunny 20 degree day it will go over 50 out there
Above 30 degree day & it goes into upper 50's
In the early Spring I have to take down the storm windows & crakc a window or it will go over 90....record is 107+
My House is a Cape & there is knee wall storage on the front of the house
The entire area is insulated (against the outside & heated space) & sheetrocked & stays warm

My new addition has a walkup attic, there will be insulation in the floor, walls, rafter space (to the peak) & the ceiling
No plans to heat it but I also expect this area to stay warm
Building a house with buffer areas just makes sense

In the *1st* *year* we lived here we went thru 3 tanks of oil
In the past *3 years* we have gone thru 3 tanks of oil
Insulating buffer areas, & creating additional buffer areas pays off

The original reason for this thread was finding out about Energy Star shingles
I was hoping with 30% off they might be less then reg shingles
No such luck it seems


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## MJW

Your attic is supposed to be the same or very close to the temp outside, if everything is done correctly.

Insulating to the rafters isn't a good idea unless it has baffles and air space, wich I'm sure you know Dave.

As far as the energy credit shingles.......the cost is higher in the end, but you do get a lifetime shingle. That is unless you go with white 3 tabs. It is good to have darker shingles in the north because it helps with melting the ice off the roof. I see no benefit from a white shingle in the north, IF everything is vented properly. 

I really don't buy into shingles absorbing heat and distributing it down into the attic space. If you tear off shingles that are hot, the underlayment is no warmer than the outside temp until the sun hits it, but only if the attic is vented properly.


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## brons2

Scuba_Dave said:


> You say to vent an attic & keep it cold
> Is a basement vented & kept cold ?
> No, but my basement will have more moisture then any attic


You're not reading his post correctly. When he talked about venting vs unventing, he is referring to people who block off all vents in their attic so that it will stay warmer. That is not a good idea, IMO. You want your attic to help retain household heat, but you don't want to stuff it shut. You need insulation and ventilation up there.


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## Scuba_Dave

MJW said:


> Your attic is supposed to be the same or very close to the temp outside, if everything is done correctly.
> 
> Insulating to the rafters isn't a good idea unless it has baffles and air space, wich I'm sure you know Dave


I don't agree with this at all (1st sentence)
Run the vents to the peak (rideg vent) & put up sheetrock
Allow the attic that is now closed off from the outside to rise to whatever temp it will
The sheathing & roof are vented
There is no need to vent the attic space any more then a closet on an outside wall in your house

I'm not saying the heat will radiate down into the attic
Heat from the house will rise into this area

As far as lifetime shingles do you really buy that ?
Or is their "warranty" such that trying to get a replacement roof 30 years from now they will tell you to take a hike ?
IE a pro-rated warranty will give you very little $$ & won't pay for labor, I&W, vents/flashing etc
Is there any shingle that will last a "lifetime"
Or are they simply playing the odds figuring the vast majority will not be in the house 15 years later ?


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## MJW

As long as the roof and sheathing are vented you are fine. Just make sure you get adequate insulation (R38 or greater here). In your case you are not having an attic. You are creating more living space. Dead air space and no make up air isn't a good idea though. This area may get very moist, but that is more of a question for a HVAC Contractor.

For the "lifetime" shingle I was just referring to the name. No one has proof that even a 30 year shingle will last the 30 years anyhow, yet. The "year rating" they state depends on many factors, not just calendar years. The "lifetime" rating is simply a relabeled 50 year. 25's went to 30, 30's went to 40's, and 50 are now "lifetime".


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## Scuba_Dave

I agree with you on the ventilation, I vent every rafter space
The attic will be used for storage, no rooms, no heat, not listed as living space or considered such by the Inspector
This space actually has 3 windows & 2 venting skylights
Plus will have a "shaft" much like a skylight shaft leading up to the cupola
It also will have 2 windows that face into the cathedral ceiling of the great room

The design being to allow hot air to rise in the summer naturally up &out the windows & then the skylights
In the winter it will be totally closed off
So for heat from the great room to exit the house it must go thru R38 in the GR ceiling....then R19 in the ceiling of the attic....then thru R38 along the rafters above the ceiling
For my knee wall storage heat has to go thru the R25 in the ceiling of the 1st floor, then thru another layer of R25 in the rafter space


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## RadiantRoofer

Scuba_Dave said:


> I prefer a roof without snow
> 
> Why *would* you want snow to build up on your roof ?



Well Dave it's not that you want snow on your roof so much as you want your attic to be close to the outside temperature. snow is just a good indicator in the winter.

*The first reason is because of ice damming.* In Canada and most cold climates it is a serious problem. (it occurs by having snow melt over the attic area because of built up heat and then freeze at the overhang. Water can then pool and travel under the shingles and if not protected by an ice & water product leak directly into the house.)

*The second reason is moisture and mould.* If your attic space warms up during the day with the sun but when the sun is no longer hitting the roof, the sheathing becomes cold first and the warm air in the attic space will then condense on the sheathing and/or moisture in the air will drop down to the insulation and again moist or wet insulation is no good. Dark moist areas are highly prone to mould growth. 

Dave, in your case you have a finished attic and have insulated and vented the cathedral ceiling well and as long as it is ventilated properly you shouldn't have a problem. 

When I speak of attic I mean the area between your ceiling and your roof sheathing. Not a finished living space. And in most cases (not every) it makes a lot more sense to add insulation to your attic, because an R-25 space then a open area and then another R-25 space does not equal R-50 but that is off topic.



Scuba_Dave said:


> You say to vent an attic & keep it cold
> Is a basement vented & kept cold ?
> No, but my basement will have more moisture then any attic


Your basement shouldn't have moisture in it either. If it is, it is because you have an older house not built to today's standards or you have a problem that is allowing moisture into the basement. On the topic the living spaces in your house is and must be vented. The HVAC guys can say more about it, but effectively older homes are vented by doors, windows, and drafts. But todays R-2000 homes are so air tight they need an air makeup system to bring in outside air.


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## concretemasonry

There is something at work known a "block body" radiation" were heat is drawn to darker surfaces. This applies to surface coverd with snow because some of the heat from the sun penetrates the snow and heats the roof surface. This is in addition to the normal transpiration, which proceeds faster if the roof surface is warmer. Transpiration is not melting; it is a change from solid (ice) to vapor (air).

It is well known that black surface absorb heat and we can see ice melting (without salt) on asphalt streets at 0F here.

The removal of the ice or snow on a roof dramatically reduces ice dams if the gutters are not filled. I have dark brown gutters on the east side of my townhouse and the amount of ice dams is much less than the units with west facing gutters because the gutters aborb the heat at 0F before there is any appreciable melting on the roof. On the west, the snow melts before the gutters open a bit. - We only get 50" of snow (usually dry and fluffy) and it is always clear, cold and sunny after a snowfall, which may be different than some places near the great lakes or the coast. Our weather usually comes from the west or NW (Canada) and the storms south of us come from the south or southwest and are wetter snow with more moisture.

Every place has its own conditions, so one answer does not fit all.

Dick


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## Scuba_Dave

But that's my point..the attic should be finished against cold/heat & only the roof deck vented

Why would you want single digit temp space above your living space ?
I hardly consider my knee wall space as living space, unless you are less then 2' tall
Nor would I consider the new attic space livable
Especially the area that will be above the ceiling - less then 2' tall

We have a high water table around here
Even with sealed concrete foundation enough water vapor comes in thru the basement
In addition the basement stays cooler in the summer & warmer air will condense on the cooler walls


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## whataboutj

For what it's worth we just had our roof compltely replaced right before Thanksgiving. The availability and cost of the energy star rated shingles was ridiculus and would have ended up costing incrementally more than the tax credit I would have received. 

I am in the midwest (IL) and was told the same thing about weanting darker shingles for snow melting.


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## MJW

Any way you look at your situation Dave, you will have a ton of moisture in that attic space that will create frost and mold on the insulation or poly in that area. That is unless you make it a habitable space within HVAC codes and your heating/ventialtion system. By the time air gets through all your insulation it won't be warm anyhow. If heat traveled through insulation and still has heat left, our siding wouldn't last more than a couple years. Just doesn't work that way.
Once the area is closed off (in winter), it won't stay hardly above freezing, making it essentially a waste of time and material.


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## MJW

whataboutj said:


> For what it's worth we just had our roof compltely replaced right before Thanksgiving. The availability and cost of the energy star rated shingles was ridiculus and would have ended up costing incrementally more than the tax credit I would have received.
> 
> I am in the midwest (IL) and was told the same thing about weanting darker shingles for snow melting.


We went through the numbers a few years ago with a similar situation. It was using impact resistant shingles and saving a percentage on homeowners insurance. This was a big deal with the hail storms. Anyways, it didn't make up for the savings. The added cost of the shingles ate it up, and then some........


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## Scuba_Dave

MJW said:


> Any way you look at your situation Dave, you will have a ton of moisture in that attic space that will create frost and mold on the insulation or poly in that area. That is unless you make it a habitable space within HVAC codes and your heating/ventialtion system. By the time air gets through all your insulation it won't be warm anyhow. If heat traveled through insulation and still has heat left, our siding wouldn't last more than a couple years. Just doesn't work that way.
> Once the area is closed off (in winter), it won't stay hardly above freezing, making it essentially a waste of time and material.


My 2nd floor is not heated at present, hasn't been for over 6 years
No mold, no moisture, no AC or dehumidifier
Knee wall storage has existed for decades, no mold no moisture
Both areas stay well above freezing

Friends been living in his house for over 10 years with his attic space sealed against the outside
No mold, no moisture
Also well above freezing, probably in the 50's


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## houseinthewoods

We replaced our roof last summer due to hail damage. We used the GAF/Elk Prestique 40-year Cool Colors shingles in white. I have lots of vaulted ceilings, and I suspect they were not well insulated. We could feel the heat radiating from the ceilings on hot days, and my powered attic fan in the un-vaulted section ran constantly. 

After the shingles were installed, the attic fan only ran for a couple of hours during the hottest part of the day. I don't have a good comparison of cooling costs before and after since the weather was unusually cool last year.

My roofer loved the heavy shingles, and said they should last forever. The Cool Colors shingles ended up costing $1,500 more than the standard 30-year Prestique shingles (30 squares). I'm getting the $1,500 back on taxes. Be careful though; only the cost of materials (not installation and labor) counts towards the tax credits 

Rick


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## walling.kelly

*Solar reflectivity VS Solar emissivity...?*

*All,*
*I just ordered my Energy Star rated asphalt shingles through my roofing contractor and went with CertainTEED Landmark White Mist architectural shingles because of the tax credit and because of the advertised 15-30% energy savings (during warmer months). I was poking around the Web and noticed new shingle technology that advertises solar reflectivity and solar emissivity. Are there additional advantages to solar emissivity? Some shingles I've noticed will have a thin layer of aluminum foil on the back to stop the heat from entering your attic but my roofing contractor steered me away from those because he said that it would "cook the shingles" and would void the warranty. I probably spent 3-4 hours researching energy efficient shingles and now have more questions than answers. Any help Ed?*

*Below is the Energy Star Shingle Tax Credit Specs.... *


*Does my roof qualify for the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act Tax Credit?*

With the recent signing of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (ARRA), the tax credits for energy-efficient home improvements that were originally part of the Energy Policy Act of 2005 have been reinstated, extended and increased.

Tax Credit: The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2/17/2009 enables homeowners to receive up to a $1,500 tax credit if they install specific energy efficient products (asphalt roofing products) which carry an Energy Star rating.

Energy Star®: Energy Star guidelines for residential roofing products require that products have a minimum solar reflectivity (SR value) of .25.

Additional Details:


Tax credit for 30% of the cost of energy-efficient products up to a lifetime cap of $1,500.
The tax credit applies to the cost of materials only (not installation costs).
At the present time, this credit is available for 2009 and 2010.
Homeowner must save receipts and provide a Manufacturer's Certification Statement.
IRS Tax Form 5695 (2009 version) is the form the homeowner will use to apply for the tax credit.


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## eloanpro

*Not all tge E Star approved shingles are 3 tab*

Some one posted most the shingles that qualify are 3 tabs. Just one example that is on the list here that is an architectual 30 year with a 110 mph wind resistance is the Landmark. They make 3 shingle colors that qualify.


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## darlenekae

*Just Installed Energystar White!*

Wow! Reduced my attic temperature in Tennessee by 35 degrees the first day. Second day...now it's 54 degrees cooler. My 2 year old 3 ton unit for the second floor alone now cools perfectly! It was 87 degrees up there by 1 pm the day before I installed this roof! To those who think a white roof is ugly...be open minded. My neighbors are jealous and it looks awesome! Other colors are available but best ratings on white which is why is I did the white. 

I love it!


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## xxPaulCPxx

I'm looking at doing it this year, with GAF white as well as insulating the roof deck. Unfortunately I'm having problems getting roofers to even give me a quote.

White is only s slighe shade lighter than my present roof color, looks good to me!

I think the 30% only covers some specific things, not all energy retrofits. I thing roofing materials and insulation only qualify for the 15% credit.


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## [email protected]

Whether or not Energy Star Cool Shingles are worth it or not depends on a few factors like slope, climate, and sun exposure. To help answer the question I've put together a report on them using the Timberline Cool Series Shingle in Case Study: Are Energy Star Cool Shingles Worth It.

Hope it helps answer some questions.


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