# Ridge beam support column



## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

Engineer at BD said the column looked fine and plugged into a calculator and said im good to go. I asked if he wanted the beam to rest on the subfloor (19/32 ply) or on the sill plate of the end wall. 

He told me my choice.

Im thinking the sill plate of the end wall would be better.

also said he didnt see the need for the extra two floor joist under the column. still thinking it would be a good idea?


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## WillK (Aug 29, 2010)

Struucturally, sure it's stronger, but would also make it more difficult to run wiring or plumbing from below.

... Beyond that I'll say that I'll stick to the questions asked for now...


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

You are not into "Green" construction are you?

I am not either but in my opinion this is a bit over-engineered, not terrible but the two extra rim joists would just be too much.
Just install blocks in place of the R.J.s so that the column has full bearing.

In addition I would suggest doing a more conventional platform frame and nix the over tall post. 

What is your location if you don't mind me asking?

Andy.


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

AndyGump said:


> You are not into "Green" construction are you?
> 
> I am not either but in my opinion this is a bit over-engineered, not terrible but the two extra rim joists would just be too much.
> Just install blocks in place of the R.J.s so that the column has full bearing.
> ...


Location is central FL. google search returned nothing for platform frame.

Green framing in the sense that i wont ever have to build it again :thumbup: 
I do plan to salvage alot of lumber from two homes that are set to be demo'd down the street.

And hope to salvage the heart pine floor from a old warehouse downtown i could do the whole house and probably have enough left to give away.

So technically the only green thing i have going for me. Is being off grid,spray foam insulation, garden and my meat rabbits.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

Uummm...meat rabbits, hossenfeffer is on the menu boys!


http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090511094300AAAenYh


Andy.


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

AndyGump said:


> Uummm...meat rabbits, hossenfeffer is on the menu boys!
> 
> 
> http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090511094300AAAenYh
> ...


never made it sounds good  usually fry or grill on cedar plank.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

BTW, what kind of calculation would the engineer at the BD need to do on a column?

For Florida, I think all that you are doing is under the heading of "conventional light frame construction" therefore you are able to design it yourself no worries as long as you don't deviate form code (IRC probably). I think the tall column deviates from code by bisecting the platforms of the gable sides.

Andy.


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

Since the beam is a engineered glulam i have to have to have a engineer stamp of approval for the support system


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## WillK (Aug 29, 2010)

Okay, questions that are nagging me are questions that are obviously a result of this design being a work in progress... Questions like: where are the doors and windows, where's the stairway, is the stairwell properly reinforced, is this going to be an open floor plan, is the second story going to have that cathedral ceiling?

So this is a post and beam foundation, shouldn't this beam simply bear on one of the beams that presumably there will be one right at the center under the post supporting the ridge beam?


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

The biggest question that comes to my mind is why you did not rest the rafters on top of the beam? That's kind of the whole point of using a ridge beam instead of just a ridge board... which is about all your beam now becomes.

No big deal, just curious. I guess it'll work just fine like you have it, but it seems like a whole lot of extra work and expense with all the hangers now necessary.


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

WillK said:


> Okay, questions that are nagging me are questions that are obviously a result of this design being a work in progress... Questions like: where are the doors and windows, where's the stairway, is the stairwell properly reinforced, is this going to be an open floor plan, is the second story going to have that cathedral ceiling?
> 
> So this is a post and beam foundation, shouldn't this beam simply bear on one of the beams that presumably there will be one right at the center under the post supporting the ridge beam?


1. doors and windows are not in place.
2. Stairway is 60" spiral in the back right corner of the building.
3. Open floor plan on second floor with cathedral ceiling, first floor will be divided with two 10x12 rooms,bathroom,utility/electric room.
4. are you saying cut through the rim joist of the 1st story just like i did the second?


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

Willie T said:


> The biggest question that comes to my mind is why you did not rest the rafters on top of the beam? That's kind of the whole point of using a ridge beam instead of just a ridge board... which is about all your beam now becomes.
> 
> No big deal, just curious. I guess it'll work just fine like you have it, but it seems like a whole lot of extra work and expense with all the hangers now necessary.


Am trying to keep a minimum about of beam sticking through the cathedral ceiling not to mention i salvage alot of hangers from a project where they were not used.


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## WillK (Aug 29, 2010)

INFALLIBLE1 said:


> 1. doors and windows are not in place.


While doors and windows will be straightforward for the first floor, aside from the fact that you necessarily can't put one that goes across the center of the gable end walls, the second story is something you might want to think about... If you're talking about a 48" wall and that also means you have a 48" top plate for that wall going across the gable ends, then either that's going to be cut for windows or you're going to limit window options.



> 2. Stairway is 60" spiral in the back right corner of the building.


First question on that is if it's too close in the corner to where the cathedral ceiling is coming down to a 48" wall, are you going to have adequate head room at the top of the stairs?

Second, is that going to be adequate for carrying furniture to the second floor? 



> 4. are you saying cut through the rim joist of the 1st story just like i did the second?


I was thinking notch the post for the rim joist. That's just my instinct, I think I'd wait for a more qualified to opinion to say which way is better. If it's notched, I know that notches are happier with holes drilled at the corners to relieve the stress concentration of a sharp corner which can become a fracture initiating point.


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

WillK said:


> While doors and windows will be straightforward for the first floor, aside from the fact that you necessarily can't put one that goes across the center of the gable end walls, the second story is something you might want to think about... If you're talking about a 48" wall and that also means you have a 48" top plate for that wall going across the gable ends, then either that's going to be cut for windows or you're going to limit window options.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



1. Windows will sit on the top plate an are rather large 80x80 triangle windows that will be on either side of the column
2. have 80"+ of head room from every tread to ceiling 
3. if furniture cant be brought up through the stairwell railing can be unbolted and treads rotated out of the way and lifted to the second story. (with treads rotated out of the way it leaves me a 5.5 foot x 2.5 foot access) if i need larger center support can be unbolted and moved to one side giving 5.5' x 5'.

I will have to consider the notch will discuss with the BD


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Let us know what the S.E. said about the continuous post breaking up your shear end walls in your high wind area. Why not posts per story as in platform framing as mentioned rather than balloon framing? http://books.google.com/books?id=iU03Fi5xzIYC&pg=PA94&lpg=PA94&dq=balloon+and+platform+framed+houses&source=bl&ots=E2wQrD_FV6&sig=3lzisyrEfUgx4osgCX7DLEBTvkE&hl=en&ei=fOB1TK-uC4T2swOm1cWgDQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CBsQ6AEwAjgU#v=onepage&q=balloon%20and%20platform%20framed%20houses&f=false

You have a conventional floor if using 2x joists, a post and beam floor when using 4x beams as joists, 4’-5’ on center with 1-1/8” plywood or car-decking (2x) for sheathing for the greater spans.

Bedroom windows require 42-44” above finished floor to the opening, depending on local AHJ.

Gary


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

GBR in WA said:


> Let us know what the S.E. said about the continuous post breaking up your shear end walls in your high wind area. Why not posts per story as in platform framing as mentioned rather than balloon framing? http://books.google.com/books?id=iU...&q=balloon and platform framed houses&f=false
> 
> You have a conventional floor if using 2x joists, a post and beam floor when using 4x beams as joists, 4’-5’ on center with 1-1/8” plywood or car-decking (2x) for sheathing for the greater spans.
> 
> ...


my 2x floor runs rests on post and beam foundation as shown here.



















"Why not posts per story as in platform framing as mentioned rather than balloon framing?"

I was under the impression what i was doing was platform framing, and are you saying instead of my beam being one piece to separate it two pieces one for each floor?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I would call that a post and beam pier foundation with a conventional floor joist system..... Is the center (gable ends) piers rated for the portions of roof loads as they appear to be same size sono-tubes, perhaps the footings are bigger for the loads? Don't need the extra end rim joists unless the gable rafters will be pieced in, not continuous to carry the roof load and overhang load. Then the load will be on the gable wall directly to the rim.
Must not be in a seismic zone, no row of blocking down the intermediate center beam. Pretty dry around there, no wood to concrete separation for water wicking capillary action from below, or the brackets are 1/2" higher than concrete. The decking laying there was just for installing blocking, you didn't install them like that.... hard to know your level of experience. Pretty long time experience, judging from the old horses..... LOL

Gary


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

GBR in WA said:


> I would call that a post and beam pier foundation with a conventional floor joist system..... Is the center (gable ends) piers rated for the portions of roof loads as they appear to be same size sono-tubes, perhaps the footings are bigger for the loads? Don't need the extra end rim joists unless the gable rafters will be pieced in, not continuous to carry the roof load and overhang load. Then the load will be on the gable wall directly to the rim.
> Must not be in a seismic zone, no row of blocking down the intermediate center beam. Pretty dry around there, no wood to concrete separation for water wicking capillary action from below, or the brackets are 1/2" higher than concrete. The decking laying there was just for installing blocking, you didn't install them like that.... hard to know your level of experience. Pretty long time experience, judging from the old horses..... LOL
> 
> Gary


not my photos used them as reference as what im doing for my foundation forgot to put the note in with the pics my apologies 

also am not following what i high lighted in red


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

An earlier picture showed multiple rims at the post (gable) end wall, which would be required if the gable wall was framed up without a rafter supporting that roof load including the overhang load. With a full rafter carrying the roof loads, the rims will carry the wall and gable end framing, as well as some floor loads. 

Gary


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## INFALLIBLE1 (Mar 13, 2011)

GBR in WA said:


> An earlier picture showed multiple rims at the post (gable) end wall, which would be required if the gable wall was framed up without a rafter supporting that roof load including the overhang load. With a full rafter carrying the roof loads, the rims will carry the wall and gable end framing, as well as some floor loads.
> 
> Gary


So basically the double rim is overkill?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The S.E. will spec. that for you with your large spans.

Gary


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