# how much is too much mud to float?



## hahns (Aug 3, 2014)

We just purchased a solid surface double sink vanity top. When I placed it on the cabinet, I realized the walls are way out of square. For the side I should be able to scribe it with a masonry blade or get a side splash to cover the large gap, but the back wall is so wavy that there are gaps of up to 1/2" deep in places. Is that too much to float mud to fill the space? I'm concerned that it will crack if too much drywall is used.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

You say "I'm concerned it will crack if too much drywall is used." Is that a typo?

You could close a 1/2" gap, but it depends on the details. You said the walls are out of square - that's different than being "wavy". Are you trying to flatten your walls all the way up to the ceiling? A half inch is a lot, but with the cabinets in the way, I don't know how you're going to fix that. If you had one area that had to be filled, it could be done with setting compound (which is stronger than drying compound and has less shrinkage.) But for large areas, I don't think that's the way to go.


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## hahns (Aug 3, 2014)

Jeff, yes that was a typo sorry it should have been ...if too much compound is used.
The walls are out of square and wavy. The out of square is affecting the side splash but I think I can handle that. The wavy back is where I need to float some compound. I had to remove the cabinet for a tile job, so it is just sitting in place now, easy enough to move again. With setting compound, I would have to feather it in a ways up the wall to make it look like a flat wall. Would that be too large an area?
Thanks.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

If the cabinet is out, I'd take the opportunity to re-drywall that area, by shimming the studs to get the wall flat. If you're not going to do that, then I would take a wide trowel such as this one, and go straight up the wall with the setting compound.
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Trowels/Marshalltown-Curved-Drywall-Trowel.html


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

I had a similar situation. It was faster to cut out the drywall and shim.


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## hahns (Aug 3, 2014)

ahh good idea! Thanks guys!


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I agree as well....also a good time to make any internal changes you might want to do. Like move an outlet or add one.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Also agree now would be the time to shim and drywall. And to be honest that is not a good trowel for a beginner. Instead of a curved trowel get a flat trowel. When I was going to change from knife and bread pan to hawk and trowel I bought a curved and I hated it. Later was told to try the flat trowel and I have not looked back. It is very hard to feather with a curved it leaves too much mud in the middle. Some guys use them for butts where you want a hump, But to be honest mine is at the bottom of my tool box somewhere. Haven't used it in years, may drag it out and try it again someday.

I now use a set of Curry flat trowels 12", 14", and 16". I would not recommend these either as for someone doing a single job they would't be worth the cost. For not much use I would recommend a 12" flat, easy to handle and will do most anything.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I was recommending that trowel not because it's curved (they come curved and straight), but because of the direction of the handle. They are easier to find in lengths longer than 12" than taping knives.

But having said that, I find when a lot of people use a flat trowel or knife and apply pressure, they actually make a concave surface. Between that and the slight shrinkage of compound, they always have a depression. When applying pressure to a curved blade, it makes it flat.

I actually use them for tapered seams when I don't want a hump. Between the shrinkage, the slight flattening of the blade, and sanding, it comes out flat.


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