# Replace chain link fence post



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Can you post a picture of that cornerpost?

It is certainly not the rule, however, on occasion or two when I've had to remove the fence post (smooth round steel) they have come out by twisting and shaking them loose. 

Sometimes mother nature has loosened it up for you in advance.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

No experience, but there has to be options other than destruction of the wall. If not I bet this group can invent one. The only thing that pops into my mind right now is to cut it flush, add an inner core and weld a new one to the old base.

I would start by calling a real fence contractor. They often have resources that are not sold at the retail level or at least the tools to do the repair mentioned above.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

At 30 degrees can it not be straightened?


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

ToolSeeker said:


> At 30 degrees can it not be straightened?


Ayuh,.... Probably,... With Alota heat,.... 

I'd try bendin' it back 1st, 'n if not successful, cut it off, 'n sleeve in a new pipe,....

I'd just replace the top rails, as they're pretty thin,...


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Windows on Wash said:


> Can you post a picture of that cornerpost?
> 
> It is certainly not the rule, however, on occasion or two when I've had to remove the fence post (smooth round steel) they have come out by twisting and shaking them loose.
> 
> Sometimes mother nature has loosened it up for you in advance.


Post is solid in wall and does not twist at all.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> At 30 degrees can it not be straightened?


I think I will try that. See my response to Bondo.
Thanks!


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... Probably,... With Alota heat,....
> 
> I'd try bendin' it back 1st, 'n if not successful, cut it off, 'n sleeve in a new pipe,....
> 
> I'd just replace the top rails, as they're pretty thin,...


I'm going to try bending the post back using heat. I'll need to rent or buy an acetylene torch since all I have is Mapp gas. Do you think the rocks might start exploding with the heat from the pipe?

I plan to cut off bent portions of top rail and replace them using coupling sleeves.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Homerepairguy said:


> I'm going to try bending the post back using heat.* I'll need to rent or buy an acetylene torch since all I have is Mapp gas. Do you think the rocks might start exploding with the heat from the pipe?*
> 
> I plan to cut off bent portions of top rail and replace them using coupling sleeves.
> 
> ...


Ayuh,.... Can't see the bent pipe in the picture,....

O/ Ac with a heat bud tip will do the job,...
Heat the Pipe, not the concrete,...

Yes, the Flame will pop the rocks like popcorn,...
Just keep the Flame off the concrete,...


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## flhtcu (Oct 12, 2014)

Soaking wet rags will protect the rocks.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... Probably,... With Alota heat,....
> 
> I'd try bendin' it back 1st, 'n if not successful, cut it off, 'n sleeve in a new pipe,....
> 
> I'd just replace the top rails, as they're pretty thin,...


This is what I would do. 

Or Cut the post and make a plate 8"x8" drill 4 holes one in each corner. Weld new corner post to said plate. Place plate/post in the location it needs to be, mark the holes, hammer drill and put some lead wedges in the hole and lag bolt it down. Trim the corn post to the correct height. 

Or a torch at the bend and a smaller pipe up top, heat and bend back.


Replace the top rails, they are cheap.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

bondo said:


> ayuh,.... Can't see the bent pipe in the picture,....













> O/ ac with a heat bud tip will do the job,...
> Heat the pipe, not the concrete,...
> 
> Yes, the flame will pop the rocks like popcorn,...
> Just keep the flame off the concrete,...


Thanks,
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

1985gt said:


> This is what I would do.
> 
> Or Cut the post and make a plate 8"x8" drill 4 holes one in each corner. Weld new corner post to said plate. Place plate/post in the location it needs to be, mark the holes, hammer drill and put some lead wedges in the hole and lag bolt it down. Trim the corn post to the correct height.


Will keep as plan-B if bending doesn't work.



> Or a torch at the bend and a smaller pipe up top, heat and bend back.


I can't visualize what you said. Could you explain in more detail?

EDIT: Oh, I guess you mean to remove the cap on the post and stick a smaller pipe in it. Got it.



> Replace the top rails, they are cheap.


Thanks,
HRG


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Use a come along...


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

30 degrees is a bunch in my mind. A concrete truck did put about 15 degrees in one of mine. The flustered driver said can I use your phone to call it in. 

I said sure but why don't you use the truck to try and bend it back first. It worked like a charm and he did not have to report an accident.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ron45 said:


> Use a come along...


Chain link fence is on top of a 13.5 foot retaining wall. There aren't any trees to attach a come along to and it's a gulch so no way to drive a truck in the back. I can only push, not pull.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Colbyt said:


> 30 degrees is a bunch in my mind. A concrete truck did put about 15 degrees in one of mine. The flustered driver said can I use your phone to call it in.
> 
> I said sure but why don't you use the truck to try and bend it back first. It worked like a charm and he did not have to report an accident.


Gulch in back. No way to drive a truck back there.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Just saying it might could be done. I straightened a line post about 5 degrees this past summer with nothing but my hands.

If you don't have any scrap pipe buy a $5 T-post at Lowes to drop down in there for leverage.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Colbyt said:


> Just saying it might could be done. I straightened a line post about 5 degrees this past summer with nothing but my hands.
> 
> If you don't have any scrap pipe buy a $5 T-post at Lowes to drop down in there for leverage.


Thanks for sharing your experience and suggestion. I wouldn't have thought of buying a t-post but that's a good idea. I have a long pipe with a blade on it for straightening the sides of trenches (not sure what the name of that tool is). I'll have to see if it will fit inside of the post. If not, I'll buy a T-post.

Thanks,
HRG


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

If you have a set of barbells in the basement you can take them apart and use the main bar for odd jobs such as this.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

If you have no trees, where did that branch come from.?

Got a back hoe, maybe rent one, push it out.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ChuckF. said:


> If you have a set of barbells in the basement you can take them apart and use the main bar for odd jobs such as this.


No barbells.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

ron45 said:


> If you have no trees, where did that branch come from.?


That was the tree that was blown down by the wind. 



> Got a back hoe, maybe rent one, push it out.


Have a storage shed in that corner of the back yard. Only about 3 feet clearance from the stone walls. It's on the left side of the first picture I posted.

Thanks,
HRG


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Maybe time to call the fence company.?


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

I have straightened center posts just using a 4' pipe wrench. Corner posts are sometimes thicker stock.


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## nysvip (Feb 12, 2015)

Agreed with the above.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

PoleCat said:


> I have straightened center posts just using a 4' pipe wrench. Corner posts are sometimes thicker stock.


Yes our corner posts are thicker than the center posts. The bend in the corner post is right at the bottom where it meets the concrete. Sticking a tape rule into the post shows that the concrete inside of the post is level with the top of the wall. The bend looks like a double chin on one side and the pipe is smooth on the other side. The post above the concrete is straight.

I found a 1" ID galvanized pipe that is 5' 5" long. Sticking it in half way down and pushing feels like it is about to bend the 5' 3" high post in the middle. I need about a 10 foot pipe so that it goes all the way down in the corner post till it hits the concrete inside of the post. 

HRG


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

"The bend in the corner post is right at the bottom where it meets the concrete". From experience: Sorry, but you will not get that post straight enough no matter where it was bent. Being bent near, or at, the bottom is worse. You _might_ get that post to come loose by banging on the post at the bottom with a large hammer. Don't expect it to just pop loose, this will take some time. I have removed larger posts set into concrete in industrial plants using this method. You will be breaking small pieces of concrete that are attached to the pipe with each blow. Yes, you are taking a chance of breaking out the wall also. IF you can get the post to let go and remove it, use a non-sanded grout material to almost fill the hole before placing the new post in. The non-sanded grout material is a finer material than cement and will fill in any little cracks and will help set the new post. IF banging on the post will not make it let go then I'd say it will be time to call in a fencing company. They should have a way to cut the old post flush, then use a core drill that has the I.D. just a bit larger than the old post. Done this many times.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Maybe cut the pipe off at the base, install smaller pipe inside then install bigger pipe over smaller pipe sorta like the pin in a scaffold.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

BigJim said:


> Maybe cut the pipe off at the base, install smaller pipe inside then install bigger pipe over smaller pipe sorta like the pin in a scaffold.


As mentioned, I stuck a tape rule down the inside of the post. The cement inside of the post is level with the top of the wall. IOW, when the cement was poured, the wall contractor pushed the post down into the wet cement filling the inside of the post with cement. So if I cut the pipe off at the base, there would just be solid cement with a metal ring imbedded in it.

Thanks for trying to help though. Appreciated.
HRG


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

Thurman said:


> "The bend in the corner post is right at the bottom where it meets the concrete". From experience: Sorry, but you will not get that post straight enough no matter where it was bent. Being bent near, or at, the bottom is worse. You _might_ get that post to come loose by banging on the post at the bottom with a large hammer. Don't expect it to just pop loose, this will take some time. I have removed larger posts set into concrete in industrial plants using this method. You will be breaking small pieces of concrete that are attached to the pipe with each blow. Yes, you are taking a chance of breaking out the wall also. IF you can get the post to let go and remove it, use a non-sanded grout material to almost fill the hole before placing the new post in. The non-sanded grout material is a finer material than cement and will fill in any little cracks and will help set the new post. IF banging on the post will not make it let go then I'd say it will be time to call in a fencing company. They should have a way to cut the old post flush, then use a core drill that has the I.D. just a bit larger than the old post. Done this many times.


If I heated the post right at the bend using an acetylene torch until it got red hot or near red hot, I sure I could bend it back. But since the bend is at the bottom right at the cement cap on the wall, I'm pretty sure there would be a lot of popping and exploding rocks.

There is no way to bang on the post to break it loose. The part imbedded in cement is really in there solid and the cement is very solid and not crumbling.

Thanks,
HRG


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Homerepairguy said:


> *If I heated the post right at the bend using an acetylene torch until it got red hot or near red hot, I sure I could bend it back. But since the bend is at the bottom right at the cement cap on the wall, I'm pretty sure there would be a lot of popping and exploding rocks.*
> 
> There is no way to bang on the post to break it loose. The part imbedded in cement is really in there solid and the cement is very solid and not crumbling.
> 
> ...


Ayuh,.... Take a garden hose, 'n flood the concrete area around the post with flowin' water,....

Then heat the bend red Hot, 'n push it back straight,....


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Homerepairguy said:


> As mentioned, I stuck a tape rule down the inside of the post. The cement inside of the post is level with the top of the wall. IOW, when the cement was poured, the wall contractor pushed the post down into the wet cement filling the inside of the post with cement. So if I cut the pipe off at the base, there would just be solid cement with a metal ring imbedded in it.
> 
> Thanks for trying to help though. Appreciated.
> HRG


Sorry, I missed that.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

After weighing all of your suggestions and scrutinizing the situation closely, I think I'm just going to leave the post as is. 

I bent the left "top rail" back pretty straight (the one in the picture that has the tree branch on it) and reinstalled it as a temporary fix. After pulling the chain link fairly taunt, it doesn't look too bad. 

Since the view of that corner is blocked by our storage shed, the bent corner post of the chain link fence can't be seen from our back yard unless one goes behind the storage shed. And the only time that happens is when I go back there to clean up. Also, there's just the drainage gulch and some neighbor's houses behind our property so it can't be seen from any road.

I'm going to have to attach the chain link fence to the bent post using 3 short bars instead of one long one, to accommodate the bent post. But that will be pretty easy to do. All of the fence posts are set back about 1 foot from the inside edge of the stone wall so the fence will not impede walking around back there. And no one is going to be looking at the end result anyway so the job doesn't have to be perfect.

The bent post is quite solid now and I think bending the post back might make it weaker so leaving it as is might be better anyway.

Thanks all for your suggestions,
HRG


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