# Re-locate or remove post in basement



## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Post some pics and we'll see what we can do


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## jerrylee (Feb 25, 2011)

mrgins said:


> Post some pics and we'll see what we can do


great, I will try and put a drawing of measurements and a few photo's together by tonight
Thanks


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## jerrylee (Feb 25, 2011)

Here's a few pictures, the house is a single story bungalow, does this layout seem normal? 

the 3 poles shown on top of the sheet are known locations, the 3 on the lower part of the sheet are unknown, as there is a wall still up, basement was half finished, when we bought it. so I am assumimg they would be there, 

Jerry


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

do all you post look like the one in the picture? That is a telepost. It looks like someone was trying to lift that beam. Those teleposts are meant to be taken out after the lift is done and replaced with lally columns.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

The calculations that are required are done by a structural engineer as there are point loads to contend with. That is why they are evenly spaced at 9’ to hold that load as your drawing shows. In order to remove one post you will have to increase the size of your wood beam and that would be calculated by a structural engineer.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Need better pictures of the pole at the beam you want to move.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Do you have a trussed roof or rafters? I assume there is a bearing/nonbearing wall above the beam at 7' out. Can we get a pic of the room directly above that one beam and also the joists directly above the beam, and also inside the attic?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Post a picture or 2 showing the whole support line. The spacing of the poles based on the drawing is not atypical. You would need to consult a structural engineer for a structural reinforcement plan to remove any pole in the basement.
Ron


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## dtsman (Jan 1, 2011)

So, what you know is that the beam is supported every 9'. Right? It is one solid beam? right?

That being said, you can move your supports around, so long as you don't have more than a 9' span. Can you put 2 supports in that area and hide them in a wall to create the opening you are looking for?

Put a support 4.5 feet on each side of the post you want to remove and then remove it. Or 3' on one side and 6' on the other, etc....

Does that help any, so you don't have to worry about reinforcing the beam?


Bo

Remember,
If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy. 
(Red Green)


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## jerrylee (Feb 25, 2011)

I would like to remove it completly, or at least a 17' span
the beam is made up from 4pc. 2x10 
there is a wide open living room above the beam, ( I will have to draw a scale layout + photo)
the house is approx 65' x 32 the roof has only one ridge that runs in the center, very basic

Yes I am sure to hire a structual engineer would be best, but i would still like to see how far I can get on my own,


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Not that far without the help of a structural engineer.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Sounds like your about as far as you can go right now 17' call an Engineer now.


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## loneframer (Mar 27, 2009)

I've been framing homes for the better part of 25 years and have used everything from built up dimensional lumber to steel beams and flitch plates.

IME, even the best engineered lumber will deflect over time, especially in areas of high moisture.

17' span should be done in steel.

In addition, the footings under the post you will be adding load too is probably insufficient for the new load, assuming there is a footing.:whistling2:


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## jerrylee (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks Guys

Loneframer: , thanks, I did not take into account the existing footings, with the increase in load, your absolutely correct I will have to look into that, these poles do appear to have footings, 

I can see now it is a little more involved then simply taking the sawsall to it, and I probably should just forget about it and move on, but unfortunately this one pole really bothers me, 

I have been studying this very basic page on beam spans http://www.the-house-plans-guide.com...an-tables.html which has explained some sizing for me, and my expectation 18' is right off the scale 


I appreciate the good advice about getting a structural engineer
but, as mentioned I will go as far as I can on my own, I have the software to do professional load and deflection calculations on most materials, so I will keep poking at it , as I gain more info on it

Jerry


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

No doubt you have the software, but do you have the skill and training to use the software correctly? An old professor of mine once told me that the time to take out the software was when you already had a good idea what the answer was. None of the calculations are rocket science, but the details can be killer.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Millertyme said:


> do all you post look like the one in the picture? That is a telepost. It looks like someone was trying to lift that beam. Those teleposts are meant to be taken out after the lift is done and replaced with lally columns.


Not sure haw you can tell it's a temp. post from that picture, but it sure doesn't look like one to me. Don't let the screw adjuster fool you, it isn't an automatic indicator of a temp. post. As a matter of fact, every permanent post we use here looks similar to the fraction of the post in the picture, we just generally flip the post the other way so the screw jack is locked into the concrete floor.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Daniel Holzman said:


> No doubt you have the software, but do you have the skill and training to use the software correctly? An old professor of mine once told me that the time to take out the software was when you already had a good idea what the answer was. None of the calculations are rocket science, but the details can be killer.


 
Couldn't agree with you more, software in knowledgable hands is a tool, in hands that are not, it is a accident waiting to happen.

Mark


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## jerrylee (Feb 25, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> Not sure haw you can tell it's a temp. post from that picture, but it sure doesn't look like one to me. Don't let the screw adjuster fool you, it isn't an automatic indicator of a temp. post. As a matter of fact, every permanent post we use here looks similar to the fraction of the post in the picture, we just generally flip the post the other way so the screw jack is locked into the concrete floor.


 
Yes it is a permenant post, the other (Floor end) is set in the concrete, as you mentioned


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## jerrylee (Feb 25, 2011)

Jackofall1 said:


> Couldn't agree with you more, software in knowledgable hands is a tool, in hands that are not, it is a accident waiting to happen.
> 
> Mark


 
I agree even more, it took me many years to actually trust the numbers,


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