# How do I secure deck railings between posts



## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Well, here's how I did it. This may not be the "right" way to do it, but its a couple years old and hasn't fallen down.










We just cut the bars to length and screwed them all into the back side of that 2x4, then screwed it to the top of the porch. That's 1/4 round on either side of it, which you can't see because the non-working rope lights are in the way. 










We then screwed it straight down from the top railing, but if you don't want a bunch of screws on top, I suppose you could do 2x4s on both sides. And no, we don't own stock in a 1/4 round company. :laughing:

Hope this helps a little. My dad and I were "carpentarily challenged" and its been pretty solid for about 7 years, so we must've done something right.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Or you could nail a 2"x4" flat between the posts on the outer edge. Nail/screw the balusters (pickets) to the 2"x4" and down through the top. Keep it a couple of inches up off the deck so you can sweep leaves under. (I didn't do mine that way and wish now I had.)


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Most handrails have a groove along the bottom. If yours doesn't, you can route a small section on the bottom... and also on the end that goes against the post... to allow a small "L" bracket to inset there on the end.

Screw the "L" bracket to the post first, then set the handrail down on the bracket, and screw up from underneath into the bottom of the handrail.


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## orange (Feb 19, 2008)

Here's 2 photos of what we did for a deck railing. It's a bit like bjbatlanta suggested.

One shows deck and railing, the other shows how we "jigged" to create the railings.

We built the railing, 2x4 PT and 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 pickets. Spaced pickets so we had 1 at each end, then equally spaced the remainder. We're in Ontario Canada and space between pickets must be < 4 ". The pickets are screwed from below and top thru the 2x4s. We added a finish nail to prevent pickets from turning. Also added a piece of 2x4 on edge beneath the rail section to keep it 3 1/2 in above the deck to allow removal of leaves etc. We screwed thru the end pickets to hold rail sections to the posts. Over the top of the rail sections we add 5/4 x6 PT.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

tigereye.....go to home depot and purchase a deck building book. Between the covers you'll find a wealth of information. If Mort had, his balusters would be spaced properly. And if orange had, he would be supporting his deck with concrete footers. Please, build it right the first time....other peoples safety is at stake.


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## gotboost (Sep 5, 2008)

12penny is right,the new B&D book has the updated 09 codes,I just built my first deck and the book saved me more then a couple times..


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## II Weeks (Jan 6, 2009)

Gotboost, those posts look too high or is it me? Looks like you used the 48" post ( stair rails ) instead of the 38"s ( hand rails ) but if thats what you like . . .


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

12penny said:


> tigereye.....go to home depot and purchase a deck building book. Between the covers you'll find a wealth of information. If Mort had, his balusters would be spaced properly.


Seven years and zero deaths, can't argue with that kind of success.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Mort said:


> Seven years and zero deaths, can't argue with that kind of success.


It's a matter of building to Code
They are too far apart
No-one complains until there is a death
At which point it is too late :whistling2:


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Mort said:


> Seven years and zero deaths, can't argue with that kind of success.


no...but I can with that kind of thought process. Codes, specificaly the baluster spacing section, were written to protect those two little people pictured in your avatar. Maybe its just me, but I'd lose sleep at night praying for 8. Good luck to you and yours.


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## mongoose (May 5, 2009)

12penny said:


> no...but I can with that kind of thought process. Codes, specificaly the baluster spacing section, were written to protect those two little people pictured in your avatar. Maybe its just me, but I'd lose sleep at night praying for 8. Good luck to you and yours.


Agreed. The baluster spacing is important for the little ones running around grab-a$$-ing on the deck ... they fall, get their head stuck between the balusters and *crack* ... broken neck.

(shudder)

I'm certainly no one to give anyone advice, but intuitively ... dude ... fix those balusters ... seriously.

I'm helping some friends of mine do a deck, and on the deck they have a stairway (4 steps) leading up to the edge of an above-ground pool. I begged them to put rails on it, but they insist they don't want them, and I cringe when I look at it. I want to sneak over there some night and put them on. Maybe I'm just overly-safety conscious


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

You know, I always knew it was to keep kids heads out
But I was thinking more of getting stuck
The broken kneck issue is something I had not considered
The way my kid & others rough house that is a serious possibility


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

I'm doing hand rails on my deck right now and our 'code' requires that a 4" sphere cannot pass through any opening on the guard!
The top rail must be 42" high if there's a lower rail to stand on. 
If seating is part of the guard, it must be 35" above the seat.


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Boy, I didn't realize my house was such a death trap :thumbdown:

And seriously, I didn't post that to get a lecture. I just tried to answer a different question, and get a bunch of flack. I guess I won't be doing that anymore...


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Mort said:


> Boy, I didn't realize my house was such a death trap :thumbdown:
> 
> And seriously, I didn't post that to get a lecture. I just tried to answer a different question, and get a bunch of flack. I guess I won't be doing that anymore...


 Its evident that you weren't aware of the building codes as they apply to decks.

I hate to be critical, while you are licking your wounds. My friend built his deck in same manner as yours. He had to replace the guards in less than 5 years because the bootom rail was tight to the deck, held moisture and rotted away!
The silver lining here is that you'll be able to do it right the next time!


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Guess I don't understand the younger generation of parents. I would have expected the appropriately concerned response to be: "Thank you! I appreciate the information, I'm embarrassed, but I will be adding intermediate balusters tomorrow. My child's safety is far more important than salvaging my wounded pride."

But hell, what do I know?


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Mort....I didnt mean to get your panties in a bunch. Actually we owe you a word of thanks. The OP asked a question about deck rails. You and someone else provided us with pictures that were extremely high in educational value. Theres probably a hundred guys that read this thread and have since put in more balusters because they realize now how dangerous it is to have them spaced so wide. Thats potentially 100 lives saved because you were willing to share pictures of your deck.

Dont be mad. What else would you expect a professional to do? We all use these pages to acquire a little more knowledge about our homes, or to help those that dont have a trade background but want to do a professional job. What kind of site would this be if we had'nt made the observations we had? What kind of site would it be if we had'nt called you on it? What we do with this new found knowledge is whats important.

Say you'll come back. Please.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

My ol' Pappy used to tell me, "Son, one of the hardest things about becoming a man is to get over trying to be a man." I don't think that lesson ever really began to sink in till I was at least 50.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I've had things pointed out in some of my pics I post
In many cases they couldn't tell from the pics the exact work that I had done
But sometimes you learn how to do something better
Or a more detailed explanation of the work prevents someone else from doing it wrong


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