# Bent axle?



## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

I have a 2002 Chevy HD2500 truck. Recently, the passenger side rear seal went bad. I was unaware of it until I started hearing a bit of clunking back there. I immediately filled it with gear oil and all seemed well. Within a week, however, the noise was back and it was worse. It still had plenty of oil. So I had it towed on a flat bed to my mechanic's shop. He said that the pinion bearings were trashed and replaced them. He also replaced the axle seal and the carrier bearing.

I paid for it ($1050!) and went about my business. However, I noticed that there was a vibration that was most noticeable between 25 & 30 mph. I took it back. He said he found nothing wrong. Then, I noticed that the rear right wheel seemed to be wobbling, as though I had spun a belt on the tire. It took it back. He replaced the idler arm on the front end suspension. He called me before he did the work, and the idler arm was indeed bad, almost falling out of the joint. So, while I was doubtful that that was my problem, it need handling. Another $500!

Still, the wobbling persisted. I took it back. I've been doing business with these guys for several years and had trust in them, but I was beginning to believe he was in over his head. He kept my truck for another week. He decided it must be that the drive shaft had become unbalanced. He sent it to a shop, they welded a weight on it. I asked him if it was still wobbling, he said he couldn't find a wobble, so sh** on it. He gave me the truck back. I took it for a test drive, knowing he hadn't corrected the problem. Still wobbling. 

He charged me another $65 for the balance. I was relieved to get my truck out of his shop. Needless to say, this has destroyed my faith in that shop.

So, I'm about to take it to someone who is said to be a rear end specialist. 
I told him my long, sad story. So I'll take it in to him this coming tuesday.

He said it's possible that the axle is bent. This occured to my also, as did the possibility that my "old" mechanic put it back together wrong and that the bearing was misaligned (uneducated speculation).

Symptoms: 
If the truck has sat up overnight, in the morning, it's still shaking a bit, but not as bad as it seems to get after it's been driven a while.

I switched the passenger side front and back tires on the chance that a belt was spun. Seems a bit better, but still wobbles (and back end shakes).

I say it wobbles because I have jacked the rear of the truck up, put it on jack stands, started the motor and put it in gear. That back wheel is definitely wobbling!

So, I guess I'm hoping that some of you "experts" out there hear these symptoms and know exactly what's happening.

Opinions?

Thanks,
Bob.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

> If the truck has sat up overnight, in the morning, it's still shaking a bit, but not as bad as it seems to get after it's been driven a while.


I would think if you have something physically bent, like an axle, it's not going to be better or worse at any particular time. It should always be the same because it's physically the same.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Remove the wheel and take a face and rim run out reading of the flange.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

hyunelan2 said:


> I would think if you have something physically bent, like an axle, it's not going to be better or worse at any particular time. It should always be the same because it's physically the same.


Very good point. Still, since it happened after I got the vehicle back from the mechanic, I'd think it would have to be differential related (although I know that mechanical coincidences can and do happen...). 

I guess expense wise I'd rather it not be a bent axle. I'm thinking I'll remove the wheel and rotor and take a look at the rotor. When I rotated the tires, I noticed that the front rotor surface isn't smooth (not grooved from brake wear, but not flat). Perhaps the back has a similar issue. Could that produce these symptoms?

Any other ideas appreciated.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Fairview said:


> Remove the wheel and take a face and rim run out reading of the flange.


I'm not sure what that means? :huh:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Bob... said:


> I'm not sure what that means? :huh:


Although a dial indicator would be ideal, rotor can be checked for true by placing a substantial object ( anvil, concrete block etc. ) close to the rotor with most anything placed on top touching the rotor face that will move when the high side rotates to it. If anything is bent, at 180° from that high area there will be a gap between the rotor and moveable object. Can be checked with a feeler gauge. Do the same thing on the rotor edge and you'll have evidence to take to the mechanic if there is run out. Run out in this instance means not running true.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Thanks for the explanation.
Since I'd only use it once or very occasionally, I could get this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html

But I don't believe I'll be going back to that mechanic. I thought the wobbling wheel would have been enough to convince him. His strategy was to deny that a problem existed.

But if I were to use this, would I be able to determine if it was the rotor or the rear-end? I suppose I'd have to get some sort of spacers to place between the lug nuts and the rotor to hold it on?


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Edit: Nevermind. Got my axles mixed up. Sorry for the post.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

The first place I would look is at the wheel bearings. Bad wheel bearings on a floating axle will take out the seal. you said that the pinion bearings went out and that he replaced those and the carrier bearings, but all that bearing debris will find it's way to the wheel bearings unless the whole axle housing is flushed thoroughly. I would be especially suspicious because the initial complaint was noise at the wheel. Remove the axle shaft without touching the wheel bearings and then spin the wheel and try shaking it in and out. With oyur hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, you should not notice any movement. Same with your hands at 12 and 6. You should not notice any particular noise while spinning the wheel, other than some drag of the brake pads. If there is any movement or noise, remove the rear hub and inspect the bearings and races. Some floating rears use a cassette type hub with non-replaceable bearings, in which case you'll replace the whole cassette.


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