# Drywall Ceiling against a Curved Wall



## kegnut (Sep 11, 2012)

Hello everyone,

First time poster, so forgive me if this question has been answered before. I have a suspicion that like some other challenges in home remodeling that I'm perhaps making this more complicated than it is....

I have a large spiral staircase that runs down to the basement. Behind this spiral staircase is an unfinished room that I'm finishing. The staircase curve is all framed out and ready for me to slap 2 sheets of 1/4" up to bend and attach...once I get the ceiling up. However, that's where I'm stuck. What's the best way to transfer that curve radius to the drywall so I can make an accurate cut for the ceiling? I tried cutting out the curve on the bottom plate to a big sheet of paper, and that somewhat served the purpose, however its pretty off in that there are 1+" gaps in some areas of the curve and ceiling, which I think would be hard to mud and tape(?). I'm hiring someone to do the mudding/taping, so I'm not sure if the gap is "acceptable" by their standards. 

Thanks for the help!


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## kegnut (Sep 11, 2012)

Here are some pics...thanks again.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

1'+ gaps, will not be acceptable. if the floor is unfinished, can you measure the framing from outside to outside and mark it on the concrete? floor? use a string and pencil to mark, a string and razor knife to cut drywall to the radius needed.

good luck

you may want to add a few studs in that wall. 16'centers not great for round walls


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm a dumm as* when it comes to trying to figure out stuff like that so I take the easy way out.
I would use a piece of 30 lb roofing paper to make a template laying on the floor and running up the wall. I press it tight to the area between the floor and the wall to make it form a right angle and start making the cut.

I would use a Roto Zip not a utility knife so it will be cut in one pass and not snap off part of the sheetrock.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

You need to have a common reference point to measure "to the radius point edge". So if there is a common line that can represent where the opposite 4' length sheet end will lie, that is what will serve as your consistent point (measuring reference point).

Take multiple reference point measurements from that location. Try to measure approx. 4 to 6 inches over the 4' length (towards the radius edge line). 

Transfer each mark (attained from your measurement) to your actual sheet. When done with the measurements. Connect the dots to create the radius outline.

When done with that, re-check your measurements and your radius tracing - a second time for accuracy.


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

I agree with atlantic the fastest way is to take multiple measurments than transfer to sheet than connect the dots.It does not have to be perfect because you have 1/2" of drywall going up on the wall that will cover some of the gap.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

A couple ideas:

A piece of scrap #10 copper wire formed to the curve and you should be good to go. Might even work with a piece of scrap #12 wire.

A piece of aluminum flat bar stock and the same form to curve deal.




Of course if you knew the radius of the staircase, you could use the simple string and pencil method to make a template on some cardboard.


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## kegnut (Sep 11, 2012)

Thanks for all the great tips! They were all great ideas, but I did something a little different and felt like I should share with everyone what I did. While waiting for someone to reply with the magical answer, I had this thought of using a tape measure similar to the way some do to "rip" drywall by holding the tape against the edge, pulling it along the edge of the drywall while keeping a pencil (amateur like me) or your blade (pro) stuck on the specific measurement. 

I ended up butting a square end of cardboard to the curve, sticking the tape against it and kept my pencil at a certain measurement to help me transfer the curve to the cardboard. After that, I used the template for the rest of the room. Worked out great, and was really fast. It probably wasn't spot-on accurate, but it was close enough that it worked for every cut I did around that wall. Here's some pics. 











I kept my pencil at 5 inches and slid the tape along the curve.










Final template. 










Thanks again for all the responses!


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

Thats whats great about drywall.does not have to be perfect taper will get it.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

just hack it out like you did with the last sheet, liquid drywall prefill will fix everything haha


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