# Carrier Model 58MVP inducer motor



## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

You should call the local branch of Carrier and get a referral to a company that has installed a number of your type furnace. The one you have is very complex and in some cases needs expert service.

Sorry I can't help. Maybe one of the other guys can shed a little light on it.


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## deanray (Oct 4, 2008)

Thanks for the quick reply. I have someone calling back on Monday. Is there anything I should ask to make sure they know how to work on Carrier furnaces? The repairman I had working on it said they could, but it was obvious they quickly ran out of options. At least they cancelled the bill and didn't charge me.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Wish I knew more about that model, but I don't.

Sorry.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

You might want to make sure the company is a Carrier dealer.
In some areas. Companies don't spend money on sending their techs to training classes for brands they don't handle.

There is a proper way to test that motor, and the guy you had doesn't know it.

Since testing it the wrong way, can damage it and the controller, I won't go into it.


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## deanray (Oct 4, 2008)

beenthere said:


> You might want to make sure the company is a Carrier dealer.
> In some areas. Companies don't spend money on sending their techs to training classes for brands they don't handle.
> 
> There is a proper way to test that motor, and the guy you had doesn't know it.
> ...


Still frustrated but warm. After calling a CERTIFIED Carrier dealer and replacing the wiring harness, then the control board again, tried the inducer motor, (even though it "checked out good"), it took right off. So Kudos to all saying it had to be the motor. Just shows a brand new part can be bad and what some companies put out as systems they work on does not mean they are qualified to do so.
Thanks for the help!


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## keith20mm (Oct 28, 2008)

The 58MVP has a control board that you can put into test mode. On the main blower side of the cabinet is an access panel that covers the control board. On the inside of the furnace unit cover panel (the big one that you remove to get at the furnace insides) you'll see a chart that shows the switch settings on the control board. One of the switches, SW-6, puts the control board into test mode. Unpower the unit, set the switch for test mode, and then power the unit back up.

The furnace will sequentially test each function, being inducer blower, main blower, etc. If any test fails, then an error code will be flashed on the control board LEDs. The sequence will tell you the error code number. On the inside of the furnace panel is a table that lists each error code and what it means. You need to perform this test procedure to find out exactly what is failing in the furnace startup procedure.

Be sure to return SW-6 to the original position when you are done testing, and through inside the blower side, and before you put the cover back on.

Note: There is a safety disconnect switch under the edge of the access cover. Tape it down (always on) while the lid is off of the control board section. Remove tape when you are done in there.

Here is the service manual for this unit 58MVP: http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/58mvp-6sm.pdf

k


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## Uncle alf (Nov 19, 2010)

I am an hvac technician and I currently work for a Carrier factory authorized dealer which is who you should have look at it if my 2 easy fixes don't work, first thing you should try is there is a small white box that your furnaces condensation collects in either under the furnace if your furnace is horizontally installed or mounted to the side if it is vertically installed, remove the hoses and fill the white box with water leave it full and reinstall it an d reattach the hoses then try to run the furnace. The only other fix I can say is if you take the small door that is (held in by 5 or 6 brass colored 1/4 inch hex screws) take that small silver door off and try to run the furnace with it off. Basically what I'm saying is all of your expensive parts are fine there is a minor issue with not enough restriction for your inducer to pull against to activate the pressure switch properly which in turn selects the rpm of your variable speed inducer motor. Give it a try if not call the closest carrier factory authorized dealer, most if us go to training classes which are taught by carrier engineers.

Let me know if it works


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Uncle alf said:


> I am an hvac technician and I currently work for a Carrier factory authorized dealer which is who you should have look at it if my 2 easy fixes don't work, first thing you should try is there is a small white box that your furnaces condensation collects in either under the furnace if your furnace is horizontally installed or mounted to the side if it is vertically installed, remove the hoses and fill the white box with water leave it full and reinstall it an d reattach the hoses then try to run the furnace. The only other fix I can say is if you take the small door that is (held in by 5 or 6 brass colored 1/4 inch hex screws) take that small silver door off and try to run the furnace with it off. Basically what I'm saying is all of your expensive parts are fine there is a minor issue with not enough restriction for your inducer to pull against to activate the pressure switch properly which in turn selects the rpm of your variable speed inducer motor. Give it a try if not call the closest carrier factory authorized dealer, most if us go to training classes which are taught by carrier engineers.
> 
> Let me know if it works


 That is a good post you shared with the OP. Too bad it's 2-3 weeks old.
Sure the guy got it resolved by now.

But riddle me this:On a Carrier and ICP 90% drains, how are you supposed to take those white plastic drain traps off to clean them with out breaking
them?????:huh:


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## Blaise (Nov 19, 2010)

*How are you testing for power, to ground?*

or the 2 wires? to ground will tell you if youll get shocked thats it, across the 2 wires if theres 120v and its a 120v motor, take an amp draw and see if its trying to run at all? if no amp draw with correct power than its bad! ohm the motor for continuity too se if its open electrically! fashion a cord from a old lamp and wire it up direct to test it!





deanray said:


> I have now been without a furnace 10 days and counting!! I am getting an inducer motor failed to come up to speed. The inducer motor (variable speed) was replaced, did not fix the problem. The control board was replaced, no luck. The wiring harness is back ordered. I removed the harness and it looks good. The inducer motor doesn't even try and start. There is 120V at the motor. I now have all the original parts back in the furnace and the repairman I hired has pretty much given up.The furnace was purchased in 2002. Any suggestions!!!!
> 
> The new inducer motor was tested at the Carrier dealer and it checked out good.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

He got it taken care of 2 years ago.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

beenthere said:


> He got it taken care of 2 years ago.


 Whats a few years between friends?


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