# Impact Driver - Why?



## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

An Impact Driver basically adds another dimension. A downward jolt in addition to the turn. Not necessary in all applications, but wonderful when you need it.

In some ways it's a little like a hammer drill. I've drilled holes in concrete with my good ole DeWALT 18v drill. But holy cow, throw that same bit in a hammer drill and it's like cutting through butter.


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## itguy08 (Jan 11, 2011)

That makes sense on the downward force. That would definitely make things easier and lead to less rounding of Philips screws.

Thanks - I may have to add an impact driver to my list of tools!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

impact does not provide a downward jolt like a hammer drill:no:


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

An impact driver is much easier on your wrist than a regular drill.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

:thumbsup:they make driving almost any screw effortless


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

The impact part comes from a sudden (and repeated) run up on the torque. It's similar to pounding on a wrench that's engaged on a nut.

I've only ever used an impact (air) on lags. However, I just bought a Makita and I'll try it out. I know a lot of people swear by the impact over a regular drill for driving screws.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

I have found that in reverse i get less stripping of heads and some that are partially stripped come right out


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## STL B. (Oct 29, 2010)

I never saw the use in a driver because I owned a drill/driver......till I used them I have used a makita 10.something and a dewalt 18V and they were both screw runnin son of guns. The makita would run 3" screws all day and the dewalt would pull 3" screws thru a stack of 2x4's and not even bog down or could buckle door hinges if your not careful. I just got a bosch and havent put it to the test yet but I expect it to work as well as any other driver I have used.......great. If you don't do much screwin a drill works fine but if have a project planed that calls for lots of screws(deck,kitchen remodel) a impact driver is worth it's price.


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## packer_rich (Jan 16, 2011)

I use it when fastening cabinets together. When you use a driver/drill you can get a gap between the 2 cabinets. Usually I would back the screw out and then run it in again. The impact driver pulls everything together the first time. Also cuts down on stripping screws.


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Just buy one and try it on the next few projects. You will never put it down. They are awesome. That is why soo many people have them. The MAkita's are nice.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

tomstruble said:


> impact does not provide a downward jolt like a hammer drill:no:


? :confused1:


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Bought one when I built my deck a few years ago.
I wonder how I ever got along without it.
It drives screw much quicker than a driver and less impact.
Look at the latest issue of Family Handyman for a very good article and comparissons of each brand.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

DrHicks said:


> ? :confused1:


impacts drivers only provide impact to turn,they do not impact down like a hammer drill


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

tomstruble said:


> impacts drivers only provide impact to turn,they do not impact down like a hammer drill


agreed. It is a rotational impact, not a hammering impact. 

It is like an impact gun a mechanic would use to remove bolts, only a lot smaller. The hammering allows a much greater amount of torque to be applied to the fastener even though it is only one "whack" at a time.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

tomstruble said:


> impacts drivers only provide impact to turn,they do not impact down like a hammer drill


Sure.

It's interesting though, that every description of an impact driver describes them as having a "downward hammering" movement as they turn. I suppose the argument would be whether it's a vertical hammering or horizontal hammering.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

DrHicks said:


> Sure.
> 
> It's interesting though, that every description of an impact driver describes them as having a "downward hammering" movement as they turn. I suppose the argument would be whether it's a vertical hammering or horizontal hammering.


you can argue all you want but if you disassemble the hammering systems in each, as I have, you will realize that an impact driver imparts a rotational impact while a hammer drill or impact drill imparts a longitudinal impact.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

nap said:


> you can argue all you want but if you disassemble the hammering systems in each, as I have, you will realize that an impact driver imparts a rotational impact while a hammer drill or impact drill imparts a longitudinal impact.


I'm not arguing, just noting what seems to be the common understanding (maybe misunderstanding).


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## itguy08 (Jan 11, 2011)

Wow - this has been a good discussion. I know I learned something and may be putting an impact driver on the list of tools to get. I'd be interested to hear from those that have them or have purchased them as a new tool what they think. 

One other thing I have a question on is how do you control the torque on them? With my drill/drivers I use the clutch and it seems like none of the impact drivers have clutches...


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

I bought my Makita 18V Lion about 2 years ago at HD as a impact & drill combo. It has no torque control. I can only think of one time it would have been needed. My son is in the HVAC trade and has the next level up Makita geared towards pros. He said the Makitas are real popular at work which is why I bought that brand. The next level up one has more power and bigger batteries. I would see those features as essential if I was using it on the job all day. I use it all the time when working on the car. It does not replace my compressed air impacts, but it is great on smaller fastners.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

No torque control.
I have driven screws all the way through, into the other board.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

I have a little Hitachi 14.4 volt. It's a few years old and the batteries died. I have an 18 volt Hitachi drill as well. A slight modification and the 18 volt battery fits, and works, just fine in the impact driver.


You control torque with your finger. You want it to drive, you pull the trigger. You want it to stop, you let off. You want it to run slower, you throttle it. When you slow it, the impacts are not as hard so there is less torque applied.

It, and any other driver I have used (Bosch, Rigid, Milwaukee, Makita, and probably a few others) are very controllable with a trigger throttle.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

Dr Hicks said:


> Sure.
> 
> It's interesting though, that every description of an impact driver describes them as having a "downward hammering" movement as they turn. I suppose the argument would be whether it's a vertical hammering or horizontal hammering.


 
i think the word percussion would more defining


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

you can over torque with an impact, some times a drill/driver is more precise,but honestly i rarely use the driver anymore:no:


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

Impact drivers provide both downward AND rotational force....contrary to what some have posted herein. Impact WRENCHES provide rotational force only. This has been covered in recent threads....search and you will find. Or one real quick check of wikipedia should clear it up.


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

DrHicks said:


> It's interesting though, that every description of an impact driver describes them as having a "downward hammering" movement as they turn.


That's because that is what they do!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

i believe your wrong:no:

wikipedia... thats cute:laughing:


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

piste said:


> Impact drivers provide both downward AND rotational force....contrary to what some have posted herein. Impact WRENCHES provide rotational force only. This has been covered in recent threads....search and you will find. Or one real quick check of wikipedia should clear it up.


I know for a fact mine does not provide downward force unless I am the force pushing it downward. I can go and check it, again, if you really don't believe me but I figure checking it, just because I read your post, is enough.


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

I can throttle my makita with the trigger.


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

tomstruble said:


> i believe your wrong:no:
> 
> wikipedia... thats cute:laughing:


You are free to believe what you want however incorrect it may be...just stop spreading false information.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

tomstruble said:


> i think the word percussion would more defining


Yeah, I think that's accurate. We could also probably campaign for the word vibrate. 


Hey - I'm going to be building a couple decks this summer. I've actually got my eye on an 18v DeWALT Impact Driver (already have an 18v kit), and am waiting for it to go on sale. Do you have any experience with the DeWALT? Good, bad, ugly? Got a better recommendation?


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Makita sells both impact drivers and impact wrenches. They look identicle based on the web site pics. The Impact wrenches delivers higher torque and have a 3/8" square drive. The Impact drivers have the 1/4" socket drive. The web site does not describe how the impact hammer works.


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

The wikipedia site does have some good info. 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_wrench

It makes sense. According to this the impact driver is intended for screws and other similiar fastners. The impact wrench is intended for nuts and bolts where a downward force is not needed and potentially damaging.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

DrHicks said:


> Yeah, I think that's accurate. We could also probably campaign for the word vibrate.
> 
> 
> Hey - I'm going to be building a couple decks this summer. I've actually got my eye on an 18v DeWALT Impact Driver (already have an 18v kit), and am waiting for it to go on sale. Do you have any experience with the DeWALT? Good, bad, ugly? Got a better recommendation?


 
the dewalt is a good one:thumbsup:


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

beerdog said:


> The wikipedia site does have some good info.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_wrench
> 
> It makes sense. According to this the impact driver is intended for screws and other similar fasteners. The impact wrench is intended for nuts and bolts where a downward force is not needed and potentially damaging.


 
:no: they are confusing 2 different impact drivers,the hand one uses the downwards force of a hammer blow and converts it to a rotational action

the cordless impact drivers we are talking about ARE just like the impact wrenches that mechanics use


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## michaelcherr (Nov 10, 2010)

As far as the torque control:
Most of the time when driving screws we want a certain level of countersink, we can control that on a drill/driver with the torque settings.
An impact provides a great deal of torque but doesn't turn the screw very far on each hammer blow.
Because each little hammer blow is at full torque, you can hit the trigger to drive it in just a little farther.
Pushing in a 3" screw "just a little farther" is difficult with a drill driver, but this is where an impact excels.

Long story short: because of the way an impact driver works you don't need adjustable torque settings the way you do on a drill/driver.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

tomstruble said:


> the dewalt is a good one:thumbsup:


Good! I assumed so. DeWALT isn't a top-of-the-line product, but pretty good. I've been happy with all my DeWALT tools. And since I already have most of the 18v DeWALT tools, adding the impact driver would make sense.

Thanks!


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

tomstruble said:


> :no: they are confusing 2 different impact drivers,the hand one uses the downwards force of a hammer blow and converts it to a rotational action
> 
> the cordless impact drivers we are talking about ARE just like the impact wrenches that mechanics use


Read it again. It is very clear...and DOES distinguish between the manual and power impact drivers. You are the only one confusing things....


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## STL B. (Oct 29, 2010)

They only rotate no downward force is applied from the tool just from the user. If it did it would bounce the tip out of the fastener head and besides that screws pull themselves thru from rotational force. I think wiki doesnt have it right on this one. You can read the discriptions from all the tool makers on their websites and nowhere does it state downward force.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

piste said:


> Read it again. It is very clear...and DOES distinguish between the manual and power impact drivers. You are the only one confusing things....


:laughing:you really should try using one:no:there is no need to hammer a screw,bolt or nut in,the only pressure needed or wanted is to keep the bit engaged in the screw tip...so your saying when you need to remove a screw you hammer it out?

you believe what you want tho i don't care


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

The problem with Wiki is that anyone can add and edit. 
Piste, there is no downward force to an impact driver.


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## bethomas (Jan 7, 2011)

i first used one a couple of months ago at my father in laws when we were installing a tray ceiling in his garage so the 69 chevelle SS would fit when his lift was all the way up and i fell in love. after all these years of using a drill/driver, what the hell was i thinking? i just converted my loft into a bedroom and was tempted to not even get out the framing nailer and just do it all with screws... never before has screwing been so much fun (pun intended).

I still used the drill/driver for the drywall, but for driving screws in wood, there is nothing like it. I got the 18v DeWalt drill/driver and impact driver combo for xmas (my last drill/driver had died when i had finished my basement) and so far i love it. one hour charger works great and even though they are not the XRP units, the charge on the batteries lasts a good amount of time.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Ok, again, I went and checked mine, again. It does NOT have a linear impact action. It is ONLY a rotational impact. The pic is a blow up of my gun. Notice #9, #10, and #11. That is what "impacts". There are no facilities for it to provide a linear or downward impact but only a rotational impact.

So, everybody go and check yours. I would put money on every one of them acting the same.

Wikipedia is only as reliable as the people that edit it and that happens to be everybody on the planet. It is an open source information system and if somebody like piste posts that an impact driver has linear impact forces and nobody ever corrects it, that is how it will stay.


So Piste, have you checked yours to see how it works? I would suggest it.


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

Here's a good operational cutaway video of the inside workings.
http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/video/testing-cordless-impact-drivers.aspx


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

Clutchcargo said:


> Here's a good operational cutaway video of the inside workings.
> http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/video/testing-cordless-impact-drivers.aspx


Great video!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

piste said:


> You are free to believe what you want however incorrect it may be...just stop spreading false information.


i'll take an apology for this one:whistling2:


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

hehe i thought so:whistling2:


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

tomstruble said:


> hehe i thought so:whistling2:


He's just piste!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

:laughing::wink:


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> :laughing:you really should try using one:no:there is no need to hammer a screw,bolt or nut in,the only pressure needed or wanted is to keep the bit engaged in the screw tip...so your saying when you need to remove a screw you hammer it out?
> 
> you believe what you want tho i don't care


The downward force is intened for breaking loose siezed or rusted fastners. It is a very effective technique. Obviously, it is a technique used more often in mechanical work than wood contruction work.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

I bought a 10.8v LION Hitachi impact driver a couple of months ago - haven't touched my 18v drill/driver since. I like its light weight and small size - easy to get into tight spaces. It has enough power to drive a 3" screw into wood with ease.


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## itguy08 (Jan 11, 2011)

hyunelan2 said:


> I bought a 10.8v LION Hitachi impact driver a couple of months ago - haven't touched my 18v drill/driver since. I like its light weight and small size - easy to get into tight spaces. It has enough power to drive a 3" screw into wood with ease.


That's the one I was looking at - I was thinking of the set that they have at Costco with the impact driver and the compact sawzall. Seems like it has gotten good reviews.

Or do I just get the impact driver for my 19.2 Craftsman stuff.

Decisions, decisions....


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

Keeping with one battery set is a factor to consider.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

beerdog said:


> Keeping with one battery set is a factor to consider.


a very good point to consider. That way, if you buy separate units rather than a combo set, you end up with more batteries that are usable in all of the tools. Helps avoid running out of power if you are doing a lot of work at one time. If you have one that craps out totally, it is less of a problem as well as you have several others instead of just one.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

nap said:


> a very good point to consider. That way, if you buy separate units rather than a combo set, you end up with more batteries that are usable in all of the tools. Helps avoid running out of power if you are doing a lot of work at one time. If you have one that craps out totally, it is less of a problem as well as you have several others instead of just one.


Yeah. The 18v DeWALT impact driver I'm looking at does *not* come with batteries. In a way it's no big deal, because I already have 2 batteries & a charger. However, if I could pick up an extra battery or two - for the right price - that'd be wonderful.

I guess I'll just keep looking.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

DrHicks said:


> Yeah. The 18v DeWALT impact driver I'm looking at does *not* come with batteries. In a way it's no big deal, because I already have 2 batteries & a charger. However, if I could pick up an extra battery or two - for the right price - that'd be wonderful.
> 
> I guess I'll just keep looking.


After pricing batteries for several different brands and types of batteries, I have come to the conclusion that when you buy a drill or driver, you aren't actually buying the tool. You are buying the batteries and they toss the tool in for free. 

The batteries seem to be inexplicably expensive when comparing them to a complete tool package. I have found times where it was almost less expensive to buy a new tool with battery and charger than to buy just a battery.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

nap said:


> After pricing batteries for several different brands and types of batteries, I have come to the conclusion that when you buy a drill or driver, you aren't actually buying the tool. You are buying the batteries and they toss the tool in for free.
> 
> The batteries seem to be inexplicably expensive when comparing them to a complete tool package. I have found times where it was almost less expensive to buy a new tool with battery and charger than to buy just a battery.


Wow - ain't that the truth!

For quite a few years I had a Makita cordless drill with 2 batteries. The kit cost $99 new. The drill was awesome. I beat the heck out of that thing. But eventually both batteries died, and it was going to cost (if I recall correctly) $129 for a 2-pack of new batteries. 

So a perfectly good drill gets tossed.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Often times when I need batteries, I buy a combo set with batteries, and sell the drill and charger on fleabay or yard sales.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

jbfan said:


> Often times when I need batteries, I buy a combo set with batteries, and sell the drill and charger on fleabay or yard sales.


Well shoot, if that's the case, just send them to me! I might even pay shipping. :thumbsup:


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## itguy08 (Jan 11, 2011)

beerdog said:


> Keeping with one battery set is a factor to consider.


Yup - but having a smaller impact driver would be nice to get into some tight spaces where the "big" tool won't fit or makes for a hard fit.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Getting back to the OP's original question of why. Because you can build a 12x20 pressure treated deck and end with the same phillips bit that you started with. Because you can build that deck without camming out any screw heads. Because it will run the lag screws in just as easily as the coated deck screws. And because it is one more cool tool to own and your brother-in-law can drool over.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

Maintenance 6 said:


> because it is one more cool tool to own


This is really the best answer in the whole thread. :thumbup:


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Getting back to the OP's original question of why. Because you can build a 12x20 pressure treated deck and end with the same phillips bit that you started with. Because you can build that deck without camming out any screw heads. Because it will run the lag screws in just as easily as the coated deck screws. And because it is one more cool tool to own and your brother-in-law can drool over.


You, my friend, are a real man! :laughing:


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

Well there certainly is a lot of conflicting information out there on how these things work....
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-does-an-impact-driver-work
http://impactdriver.org/

There are a number of sources that state that a downward force is applied..others are silent on the point...and I haven't found one yet that explicitly states NO downward force is applied. However, the many posts in this thread stating that no downward force is applied cannot be ignored ...despite the fact that, just like Wikipedia, anyone can add to the thread...and unlike wikipedia there is no content accuracy oversight. Does that make this thread LESS credible than Wikipedia?  I don't think so. To remove any doubt I spoke with Makita and confirmed that impact drivers and impact wrenches basically work the same way...just different interfaces to bits/sockets, variations in torque, etc. I stand corrected from my prior statements regarding downward force being applied with impact drivers.

Lastly, and back on track to the OP...I have the Makita 18V impact driver and find it to be a great tool. But I also do a lot of my own automotive work and am considering picking up their impact wrench as well.

PS. So who is going to update the Wikipedia entry on impact driver functionality? After all..anyone can edit...


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## Fishroom (Dec 4, 2010)

Maintenance 6 said:


> ....Because you can build a 12x20 pressure treated deck and end with the same phillips bit that you started with. .....


And, if you were using a #2 Robertson bit and screws, you could probably start and end the summer with the same bit.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

beerdog said:


> The downward force is intened for breaking loose siezed or rusted fastners. It is a very effective technique. Obviously, it is a technique used more often in mechanical work than wood contruction work.


 
yea but its got nothing to do with what we were talking about:wink:


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

piste said:


> Well there certainly is a lot of conflicting information out there on how these things work....
> http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-does-an-impact-driver-work
> http://impactdriver.org/
> 
> ...


I'm glad that got resolved. Just to add a couple thoughts...if an impact hammered, you would have a hard time keeping the driver bit on the screw or the socket on the nut. Hammer drills do apply the downward, or axial force, to aid in busting through hard materials like brick and concrete. Wiki is an interesting source of knowledge, but I always wonder how much truth it contains. It's really just a collaborative rumor mill. Your only hope is that someone knowledgeable comes along and corrects the non-truths. Maybe I'm too skeptical.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

hyunelan2 said:


> This is really the best answer in the whole thread. :thumbup:


I liked this part better:



> your brother-in-law can drool over.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

> piste;573907]..and I haven't found one yet that explicitly states NO downward force is applied.


 yes you have; ME. I went and checked mine twice just because of this thread, although I was certain I was correct before I checked.




> To remove any doubt I spoke with Makita and confirmed that impact drivers and impact wrenches basically work the same way...just different interfaces to bits/sockets, variations in torque, etc. I stand corrected from my prior statements regarding downward force being applied with impact drivers.


that's a Hell of a man to come back and admit it. You get a :thumbup: from me.


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

nap said:


> yes you have; ME. I went and checked mine twice just because of this thread, although I was certain I was correct before I checked.
> 
> 
> that's a Hell of a man to come back and admit it. You get a :thumbup: from me.


Just the way I am. But I'll go one better than that...let's see if it sticks...third paragraph last sentence...and paragraph four....http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

:icon_rolleyes:


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## STL B. (Oct 29, 2010)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1


This is the impact driver that is being confused with a cordless impact driver in this discussion. Wiki just doesnt have it right this time.


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## oberkc (Dec 3, 2009)

I, too, think wikipedia has it wrong in this case. I have a dewalt and rigid impact driver. Neither applies a downward force as near as I can tell. Neither did I expect them to do so.

I have always understood such tools to be called "hammer" drills, as opposed to "impact" drills/drivers/wrenches. One can definitely feel the downward impulse forces of a hammer drill and this is not present on any of the impact tools that I own. I would dare say that the hammer action would actually be detrimental to installing a screw...I suspect it would knock the tool bit OUT of the screw head.

Yes, my brother-in-law drools over these tools.


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## piste (Oct 7, 2009)

STL B. said:


> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
> 
> 
> This is the impact driver that is being confused with a cordless impact driver in this discussion. .


Yep...I own that one in addition to my cordless Makita.



STL B. said:


> Wiki just doesnt have it right this time.


It does now.


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## itin1200 (Oct 10, 2009)

I recently drilled approximately 50 holes with my Makita BTD141 and a couple Irwin Speedbor bits (http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-3041006-Speebor-6-Piece/dp/B000LQ905E) through 120-year-old 2-3 inch studs and joists for a wiring project.

To use an old and tired saying, it was just like a hot knife through butter. I hate to think what my wrist would feel like if I'd used a regular drill. The impact action of the driver sends the bit through the wood without transferring any torque to the user. Never once did the impact driver twist in the hole and wrench my wrist.

Great tool, wish I'd had one 20 years ago.


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## itguy08 (Jan 11, 2011)

Wow - this thread has turned out to be quite interesting! Thanks for all the responses.

I think I'm just going to pick one up and give it a shot once the wife lets me buy more tools!


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## beerdog (Dec 10, 2008)

No real risk. If you buy from the evil HD empire you can always bring it back for a refund.


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## itguy08 (Jan 11, 2011)

Just an update to the thread - I ended up picking up the Hitachi 12V Peak Drill/Impact Driver/Light combo at Lowes today. Used the impact driver to build a quick set of shelves for the workshop. 2x4's and 2.5" deck screws.

You guys were right - handled it like butter. Even had my wife driving screws with it without stripping the heads. The only downside is it is a little louder than I am used to. 

I got it because it's more compact than the 19.2v Craftsman impact driver that would go with all my other tools. I like the compact-ness of it and it still has the power to drive the screws. Maybe if I were building a deck or something I'd need the huge Craftsman but for my use I think this will be perfect.

Thanks to all for the great discussion!


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

itguy08 said:


> You guys were right - handled it like butter. Even had my wife driving screws with it without stripping the heads. The only downside is it is a little louder than I am used to.
> !


there's a reason for that. It's so when the wife is working with you and she starts talking, you run another screw down while saying "sorry honey. I can't hear you when this is running. Hold on a sec until I'm done"


and even though I used 371 screws to build a bookcase that really only needed about 2 dozen, it was worth it:whistling2:


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

:no:i dunno nap,i think i need pneumatic jack hammer,battery power ain't goin to cut it


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