# Carrier Weathermaker 8000 thermostat out, air blowing



## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

I have a carrier weathermaker 8000 58wav. My furnace is blowing cold air continuously and the thermostat won't come on or display anything (honeywell 7day programmer, digital). I changed the fuse (3v) and I have a code 33. I then changed the filter, and blew dust out of the unit and tightened up the spinning wheel in the upper part of the unit. I then turned off the furnace from the breaker box and turned off the switch on the outside of the unit and on the inside of the unit. I turned everything back on and still not power at thermostat and the unit still flashes code 33 and blows air continuously. I took the thermostat off the wall and tested the voltage of the red line and others and I got .2 volts I assume the thermostat is powered via the furnace. What is my problem? How do I fix?


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

Saveme$ said:


> I have a carrier weathermaker 8000 58wav. My furnace is blowing cold air continuously and the thermostat won't come on or display anything (honeywell 7day programmer, digital). I changed the fuse (3v) and I have a code 33. I then changed the filter, and blew dust out of the unit and tightened up the spinning wheel in the upper part of the unit. I then turned off the furnace from the breaker box and turned off the switch on the outside of the unit and on the inside of the unit. I turned everything back on and still not power at thermostat and the unit still flashes code 33 and blows air continuously. I took the thermostat off the wall and tested the voltage of the red line and others and I got .2 volts I assume the thermostat is powered via the furnace. What is my problem? How do I fix?


 
What is a code 33 please?


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

remove the stat and jump R to W for a constant signal...re-power the service switch on the furnace and lets hear the results inducer draft... ignition... burner... fan... read 24Vs off the direct transformer so you know its doing that at least


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

There should be a legend which explains what the code 33 stands for. Most times when blower comes on and will not allow you to do anything, no heat or cool -just the blower running continuously, a high temperature limit switch has tripped. That or a flame roll out switch.

Some of these temperature switches are resettable, some are not. The problem would be the furnace is overheating, not the switch tripping as it's doing it's job, most likely caused by air flow restriction. Check the evaporator coil for dirt accumulated and clean it if you can and keep the filters new and clean. 

You are going to have to find the switch that is tripped first and hopefully reset it. It's not a good idea to by-pass the switch as it's a safety feature and without it you can burn your house down. If not resettable then you're going to need to buy a new one. 

Do you have a meter you can test continuity (ohms) with?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

The not having power to the stat could be related to this, not sure how your furnace is wired, but these temperture limit switches bypass all controls when they trip. 

It could very well be a part of the same issue or it could be one all it's own? I guess you do have a meter since you've checked at the stat ,now do so in the furnace on the control board. Check R to C. If you have the same voltage as you have at the stat, zero, than more than likely it is the tripped switch cutting power. The stat draws it power from this control board in the furnace. 

If you have 24-ish volts at the furnace and nothing at the stat than you may have a broken or loOse wire, most likely the wire from and on the R terminal.

If not related to the switch tripping it could be the transformer went kapOot.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

biggles said:


> remove the stat and jump R to W for a constant signal...re-power the service switch on the furnace and lets hear the results inducer draft... ignition... burner... fan... read 24Vs off the direct transformer so you know its doing that at least


I rechecked the thermostat and it read 18v. I read directly off the transformer and it was 24v. I read the terminals on the board and they all read between 19.4v and 19.5v.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

And I like your screename, fits for this place. :thumbup:


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> There should be a legend which explains what the code 33 stands for. Most times when blower comes on and will not allow you to do anything, no heat or cool -just the blower running continuously, a high temperature limit switch has tripped. That or a flame roll out switch.
> 
> Some of these temperature switches are resettable, some are not. The problem would be the furnace is overheating, not the switch tripping as it's doing it's job, most likely caused by air flow restriction. Check the evaporator coil for dirt accumulated and clean it if you can and keep the filters new and clean.
> 
> ...


my device checks ohms I think. I had a very dirty filter and changed it. My humidifier filter is dirty and needs to be changed. It's on the side of the furnace. I disconnected the line to the humidifier and I'm still getting the same 33 code. where is the evaporator coil? Where are the switches that were tripped?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

This is a flame roll out switch The button in the middle simply needs to be pushed in to reset it. These are located right near the burner orifice, where the gas comes out to produce flames. There may be two or three of these in the same basic area. Follow the wires from one to the other and the next and so on.

Note the two wire terminals. Continuity should be going through these switches until it trips.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

This is a high temperature limit switch. Note there is no button on this. It is a temperature sensitive metal, like a thermostat in your vehicle's radiator, that expands and retracts. Once they cool down they usually reset themselves but many do not as they go bad and simply need replacing. 

You will only see the round back of this switch, located on blower housing and in the burner area as well but it also has two wires to it. It or they rather should also have continuity through them until they trip.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

One more high temp switch. Look at how there's a rectangular backing and the switch is a few inches inside of the furnace. There may be one similar in design on your furnace. Check continuity from each teminal, removing wires first. Does not matter which wire goes onto which terminal when you put them back as long as they're connected.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

This is a pic of a dirty (blocked) evaporator coil. Do you have an upflow vertical furnace or a horizontal? Follow the copper lines to the metal box they go into, that is your evaporator coil which is connected to your furnace. It is only used during cooling mode but is in the way at all times, air has to pass through it regardless of what call the system is on.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> This is a flame roll out switch The button in the middle simply needs to be pushed in to reset it. These are located right near the burner orifice, where the gas comes out to produce flames. There may be two or three of these in the same basic area. Follow the wires from one to the other and the next and so on.
> 
> Note the two wire terminals. Continuity should be going through these switches until it trips.



I think I have one, but in the middle the switch is brown. I turned off the unit but did not turn it off from the breaker. I tried to push the button in, but it didn't go in much and I didn't want to force it. Thanks for the pics, but the second two pictures I can't really see anything that look like them.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> This is a pic of a dirty (blocked) evaporator coil. Do you have an upflow vertical furnace or a horizontal? Follow the copper lines to the metal box they go into, that is your evaporator coil which is connected to your furnace. It is only used during cooling mode but is in the way at all times, air has to pass through it regardless of what call the system is on.
> 
> I guess I have an upflow??....I'll check.
> 
> ...


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> This is a pic of a dirty (blocked) evaporator coil. Do you have an upflow vertical furnace or a horizontal? Follow the copper lines to the metal box they go into, that is your evaporator coil which is connected to your furnace. It is only used during cooling mode but is in the way at all times, air has to pass through it regardless of what call the system is on.
> 
> Is the evaporator coil the humidifier? There is a copper line leading that.


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

It's sitting on top of an upflow furnace...


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

Code 33 refers to the red circuit between harness PL7 terminals 1 and 7.











See note 10...


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

How do I open it up to clean it?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

If yours is sitting on top of the furnace like in the pic provided by Houston than the inside will look like this. Note the white drain pan. Your's may be black or whatever color but you will have to cut that pvc pipe connected to the drain pan, most likely 3/4" and then use a coupling and glue to put it back together once done with the coil. You remove the metal exhaust pipe attached to the furnace so you can get to the evaporator, remove the front panel by removing the screws and you can simply pull the entire "guts" of the coil out. Be very, very, very careful to not bend those copper refrigerant lines. Work gently and smart. There may be a screw with a holding bracket holding the inside pan in place that needs to be removed.

The dirty part will be the underneath as the air flow is upwards.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

this is what I have (humidifier)


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

The lockout is unrelated to your humidifier.
Post a pic of the front of the furnace and we may see an evaporator coil.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

more pics


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

That's it. The black insulation on the bigger line and the exposed smaller copper line lead to the evaporator, like in the pic I posted. Be very careful with those tiny coiled copper lines of the thermostatic expansion valve, refrigerant metering device. You do not want to crease.kink.bend any copper or you will be paying some money to a contractor.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

and that white pvc is the main drain which would need to be cut. I'd cut it after the first two 90's, off to the left side of the unit, where you have a few inches of straight pipe without any fittings so as to be able to get a coupling back on with ease.


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

Those pics are from very close up but this appears to be an uncased coil inside of metal ducting.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

In ran into a I fish with at church today and he fixed a few heat pumps in his day. I ran my situation down to him and he was stumped as to why I could not jump start the system and the thermostat. He suggested that I explore smaller jobs before I open up and clean the coils. Anyway, I took some pics of my system where I could not reset the a sensor button. I can't push it down. Can someone tell me if it is and what part it is?


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

*What part is this*

I also told the guy from church that this part was making noise a few weeks ago. The center pin was kinda in the center of the pole in the wheel, I pushed it further in. I can spin the wheel easily and wondered what its for.


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

That spill switch and inducer will spit out a code 31 when problems occur.
The wiring to their sensors are yellow and orange. Your tripping sensor is connected to red wires in the diagram.

I agree with your fishing buddy. Cleaning that coil will be tough.
Probably time to call a pro.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

Doc Holliday said:


> This is a high temperature limit switch. Note there is no button on this. It is a temperature sensitive metal, like a thermostat in your vehicle's radiator, that expands and retracts. Once they cool down they usually reset themselves but many do not as they go bad and simply need replacing.
> 
> You will only see the round back of this switch, located on blower housing and in the burner area as well but it also has two wires to it. It or they rather should also have continuity through them until they trip.


Found this switch... well my equivalent (.HH12ZB--- is the name of the sensor) Its above where the flames come out. I powered off the unit, pulled one of the red wires and taped against the back of the unit. I then reconnected the wires, put the panel back on and the 33 code was cleared away. Put back on the stat and everything was working again. Only problem is a wheel that spins is making loud noises and i will have to replace. Thanks everyone for Saving Saveme$ money.


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## Saveme$ (Jan 7, 2012)

*My furnace is working again, need this part.*

I guess I will start a new thread since my furnace is back up and running I need to replace the part below. It spins like it should right before and during heating cycle; however, it wobbles and makes a lot of noise. What do I need and what would it cost to replace?


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

Hey Savesme$
What you've circled on your picture is just a fan that cools down the inducer motor behind it. It is positioned suprisingly close to the gas piping. Does any part of the inducer assy make contact with that piping?

Did this fan wobble before you adjusted it?

Noice from this inducer may indicate bearing problems that will require its replacement but this particular furnace inducer can also get noicy when anyone of the 3 main mounting screws that hold the whole assy loosen. This assembly is rubber dampened 
Since you've had a 33 code it maybe an inducer failing but you can try seeing if any one of them feels a bit loose and is allowing the inducer assy to vibrate against the the furnace srructure. Either make *small* tightening adjustments and test or you can do it while the inducer is running. Often just pressing on the inducer body beside each mounting screw while the inducer is running will quieten it down and show you which one to tighten.
Tighten it too much and strip the thread where the mounting screws hold it or reposition it so the inside turbine binds against the inside casing and you are in for $$$.


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