# Uneven concrete - To Be Laminate Floored



## mcvane (Mar 19, 2007)

*subfloor a possible option*

Peter:

I'm starting a project in an upper bedroom on a floor board (my first laminate flooring project). However, since your room appears to be concrete, I've read in many places that it is recommended to install a subfloor first. This would allow you to put sleepers (2x3's i believe) every few feet and lay an OSB board on top to make it a level surface.

The areas that are off by several centimetres/inches can be levelled using shims.

I have to work on my basement in time, and this is the method I plan on using. However, others might have better suggestions...

Good luck


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## peter1 (Feb 28, 2007)

> since your room appears to be concrete, I've read in many places that it is recommended to install a subfloor first


Interesting, I was under the impression that laminate flooring has no problem going on top on concrete, as long as a mositure barrier is used. This was how I did the other bedroom.

Some "how-to" suggest to use a straight edge to check for levelness and mark the high/low spots, and then simply sand the high spots/fill the low spots.

It's easy to say sand the high spots, this is concrete I talking about. What a show stopper.


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## mcvane (Mar 19, 2007)

*installing on concrete may be ok*

I am in Canada and since it can get cold here in the winter, they say that the subfloor can make a difference in keep the floor temperature a bit warmer.

For that reason, I have not considered installing straight on the concrete. So, it may work fine for you...maybe it is fine for me as well, but I never thought it would be okay!


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

FWIW- Have you checked out Dricore flooring?

http://www.dricore.com/en/eIndex.aspx

It is designed to be used with the manufacturer's 'shims' for uneven flooring....
I actually prefer to use this on basements.

Also: With your uneven concrete floor - You could try to 'chip' it away on the 'high areas'. Cold chisel, etc..... Then mix up some floor leveler and spread it out appropriately over the 'alterated area' to get a smooth/even surface.

(FWIW - I don't consider myself a 'concrete floor expert', I'm just offering my 2 cents)


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## peter1 (Feb 28, 2007)

[QUOTEYou could try to 'chip' it away on the 'high areas'. Cold chisel, etc*[/*QUOTE]

I just came back from the hardware store and cold chisel was what they recommended as well. I just tried and the concrete chipped off easier than my first attemp yesterday, I think the chisel I used yesterday was meant for wood :no: 

Now, some serious work ahead.


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## peter1 (Feb 28, 2007)

This is too hard! It's not only concrete, there're also rocks in the mix. It's extremely difficult to progress when the chisel meets the rocks.

Since the problem area is at the corner of the room where most likely a night stand will situate, I am very temped to pull the double underlay trick to bridge the high/low spots. After all the rest of the room is in sound condition.

Actually, I will probably use self-leveling compound to smooth it out. Since it's "self-leveling", I hope it's not going to run everywhere (I haven't use it before).


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

Self leveling can be hard to work with and it may turn out to be a bit of a mess.
But what the heck...give it a try.

Depending on the size you could be incorporating quite a bit of water on the floor.
It may be best to let it dry a bit before throwing the lam down.
like a week....


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Yes, that stuff (Floor leveler) really puts out the moisture and water as it cures and dries....


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## peter1 (Feb 28, 2007)

Is it necessary to prime the concrete floor before pouring the self-leveling stuff? I don't really want to complicate the process unnecessarily.


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