# Steel Lentil Replacement for Window-to-Door Conversion



## diyATL2015 (Feb 10, 2015)

Hi all. Working on a project that involves replacing a basement window with a steel door. The construction is brick veneer over 7" concrete block on basement level, with brick veneer over wood frame on second level.

The current window opening is 36" wide, with a steel lentil above it. The rough opening for the new door frame will be 46" wide, so we'll be expanding the opening 10" to the right, and down to the slab (as seen in photo).

The brick and mortar seem to be in good shape. No visible cracks. (What looks like cracks in the pictures is actually dead ivy.)

Our assumptions so far are as follows:

1) The existing lentil will need to be replaced with a new lentil, approximately 58" in length, to span the enlarged opening, +6" on each side. We are spec'ing 4"x3"x1/4" angle iron.

2) We'll have to remove the 2 rows of brick above the opening to get the old lentil out, and the new lentil in.

3) We will start from the inside and first remove the concrete block layer to expose the brick from behind so that we can better see what we're dealing with.

Questions:

A) Given this is a 2-story brick veneer, and we're removing an extra 10" of brick to the side of the current lentil, how important will it be to provide temporary for the brick while we remove the old lentil and put the new one in place? And what's the best method for that?

B) Is it important that we replace the lentil before removing any of the extra brick below it? I have seen how-to videos of cutting doorways in brick veneer without adding in a support, then sticking a lentil in after the entire opening is cut. Is this asking for trouble?

C) I have studied diagrams of proper placement of flashing and weep holes above the lentil. How important are those items in this case?

Anything else I need to be aware of?

Thanks in advance!

J-


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

If the brick was installed properly it should stay where it is whilst you work. As to the lintel ("lentils" are beans), I am not sure how to calculate it other than you should be more like 16" on each side rather than 6". Ron


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## diyATL2015 (Feb 10, 2015)

Heh, thanks for the spelling correction. I do like me some beans though.

Wow, 16" overhang on each side? That's quite a bit more overhang than I have encountered in my research. All the discussion I've seen in the US says 6" on each side, and the discussion in the UK says 150mm (6"). Anyone know where the definitive source for this info is? Do I have to find it in local building codes, or is this a well known standard?


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Not a well known standard, just what I've seen in a couple of instances. Some real engineer guys will likely show up soon. Ron


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

6" is more than enough for a narrow lintel as you need. 

As for the rest, before I spend too much time typing, have you considered bringing in a mason to do this work? It's hardly a full day for an experienced mason and tender who's done a few of these.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Can you post a picture of the inside wall and one of the thickness inside the window.?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

What about the block wall. You will need a lintel over that one as well won't you?


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