# drive axle wont pop out for beans



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Do you have a repair manual?

Some drive axles have a C clip on the inner end, and if yours does you ain't gonna do it without removing the C clip.
OR
Try a puller made for this , might be able to rent it at the parts store.

OR the ******* way is to tie a chain on the end and pull with another vehicle. :wink2:


ED


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Slide hammer and puller attachment at autozone should be a free loaner.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

Slider hammer is the tool.


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Don't try to Armstrong it until you figure out how it's attached to the transaxle. Some use clips, some Subarus use a pin. You can screw it up if you aren't doing it right. 

For what it's worth, I did one on my 87 Cavalier once, but it's been probably 15 years so I don't remember how, but I do remember it was easy.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Thnaks, people. yes, I do have a manual- haynes. Let me look it up once more. This c clip, if it does have one, would I have to remove the inner cv boot to access it? Or is the c clip in easy view (not inside boot)?

Thanks


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Good video here.

Probably the same as your car. Be sure, should you use a prybar, to not pry on the transmission case too hard. I have seen them crack with the prybar.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

haynes manual says to just pry it out, no mention at all of any ring/clip! Sop, Im gonna call AZ to see of they have this slide hammer!! 
yes, I already found that same video- but gees, mine is so stuck. Thanks just the same, windows.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

C clip goes in a groove on the axles. Fits in a corresponding groove in the transmission housing. Jerk it with a slide hammer and it pops out of the transmission.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

I don't think the slide hammer will do diddly. The inner joint freely comes apart so the only thing to bring it along with the rest of the shaft is the boot, which is pretty springy. 


Pry bar is the correct tool. Depending on what you pry against you may want to use a wood block so you don't damage the fulcrum point (such as the trans housing). 


Often times it takes an abrupt and quick "snap" with the pry bar. As was explained by another there is a circlip (a ring) that keeps it in the transmission and you have to overcome that ring.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

nap said:


> I don't think the slide hammer will do diddly. The inner joint freely comes apart so the only thing to bring it along with the rest of the shaft is the boot, which is pretty springy.
> 
> 
> Pry bar is the correct tool. Depending on what you pry against you may want to use a wood block so you don't damage the fulcrum point (such as the trans housing).
> ...


It worked, Nap!!! Yahoooooo! I tried it one last time before driving to AZ. Right- I first pulled o the outer joint and noticed very springy rubbery inner boot action- weird- how could even a slide hammer work, I figured.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Anyway, a new one is cheap ($40 or so on Rock Auto), but for the fun of it, I have it on the bench and want to kinda inspect it- I pulled and turned and tugged and noticed some play at the oputer joint, the one whos rubber boot had been torn for many years. 

Should there be ANY clicking/play at all in these axles/joints?? The axle doesnt have play when twisted axially (in/out), but clicks/has play when pulled radially(in/out). makes sense? Is it clearly shot?


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Please view this:
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3856437&cc=1260784&jnid=427&jpid=10

It is listed for my 87 year car, but says "does not include ABS ring". Confusing- why do they mention abs ring when my car never even had abs in that era????? Anyway, it has lifetime warranty.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Or this one:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3856437&cc=1260784&jnid=427&jpid=10

it's $65 $20 more, says it's "cold rolled" splines. The first link/shaft above is $45, and says nothing about cold rolled. 1 yr warranty only.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Slide hammer and attachment looks like this.http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...FKDODuhe5Sj51R91tLFS12FICimJk8Y9woaAn4G8P8HAQ


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Bigplanz said:


> Slide hammer and attachment looks like this.http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...FKDODuhe5Sj51R91tLFS12FICimJk8Y9woaAn4G8P8HAQ


That looks like it would work. I had forgotten about that thing. 


I have replaced hundreds of shafts; Never needed a slide hammer. Apparently no quacks didn't really need it either.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I used both. Most recent vehicle I did it on didn't have any good locations to put the bar so a slide hammer (just grabbed onto the inner joint housing) did the trick.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> Slide hammer and attachment looks like this.http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-...FKDODuhe5Sj51R91tLFS12FICimJk8Y9woaAn4G8P8HAQ


right- good tool, but got it out with prybar..but thanks just the same.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Glad it worked out.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Late to pitch in

I had very good success with simple chisel. I'll set it vertical up between differential and inner CV joint housing, on a side, and start tapping it in and up with hammer. As chisel is normally a wedge, at some point CV joint pops out. never failed. Requires very little working room too.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

pry bar and/or chisel (as a wedge). then, hit the cv with a hammer, hit it kinda hard. this vibrates that C-clip to come loose.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Update: Got my new axle. Now, only thing is there are no "notches" on the outside of the inner cv joint housing by which one is supposed to hook a heavy screwdriver and pop in the axle into the tranny. It's totally smooth. original had 3 notches. Anyone ever seen this? 

haynes manual says to use the screwdriver method. But how the heck does one pop in the axle into tranny?

Thanks, people,
Quack


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

all the ones i have seen = you just insert them. then grab ahold if it and force it in = pull it out just a little then ram it in.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

OK, fixnit, thats what I thought would be the only way, but theres a tag on that new axle warning NOT to do that as it could destroy the inner "split ring/clip". maybe I wont exactly RAM it in, but gently "bump" it in(?)


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## WyrTwister (Jul 22, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> Slide hammer and puller attachment at autozone should be a free loaner.


 That is the way I have pulled half shafts .

God bless
Wyr


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## WyrTwister (Jul 22, 2013)

noquacks said:


> OK, fixnit, thats what I thought would be the only way, but theres a tag on that new axle warning NOT to do that as it could destroy the inner "split ring/clip". maybe I wont exactly RAM it in, but gently "bump" it in(?)



I lubed the splined end of the half shaft ( an C-Clip ) real well with tranny fluid , carefully slid it into the tranny , as far as it would go . Then pulled it back , maybe 1/2 way and shoved pretty firmly .

The lube also makes it kinder on the tranny seal .

God bless
Wyr


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

noquacks said:


> OK, fixnit, thats what I thought would be the only way, but theres a tag on that new axle warning NOT to do that as it could destroy the inner "split ring/clip". maybe I wont exactly RAM it in, but gently "bump" it in(?)


yeah, start with bump it in. if that doesn't work, ya gotta get more firm with it.
some go in easy, some are a pita.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

it popped in easy! Only thing- is it common to expect the wheel to be off alignment? I mean, tire/wheel looks like the lower section is more "in" than the upper. It's more "off" level than the passenger side.


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## WyrTwister (Jul 22, 2013)

Is this before or after you test drove it ?

God bless
Wyr


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Are the wheels on the ground, or still up in the air?

The camber changes when the load is off.

ED


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

de-nagorg said:


> Are the wheels on the ground, or still up in the air?
> 
> The camber changes when the load is off.
> 
> ED


Also, have you driven it yet? When you jack the wheel off of the ground, the camber changes. When you lower the jack, you could have set it down with that incorrect camber and just be seeing that. A quick drive out of the driveway and back in will straighten it back up if that's the case.


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## WyrTwister (Jul 22, 2013)

Yes , that was where I was going , asking if he had test driven the car .

God bless
Wyr


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

noquacks said:


> it popped in easy!
> 
> 
> Only thing- is it common to expect the wheel to be off alignment? I mean, tire/wheel looks like the lower section is more "in" than the upper. It's more "off" level than the passenger side.



:vs_clap:


that depends. where did you take the knuckle loose ?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

If you took it loose from the lower ball joint then no alignment. If you took it loose at the bottom of the strut, top of spindle, ( the two big bolts ) then you'll need an alignment.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Brainbucket said:


> If you took it loose from the lower ball joint then no alignment. If you took it loose at the bottom of the strut, top of spindle, ( the two big bolts ) then you'll need an alignment.


yep. unless the holes in the strut are not ovaled out.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

So sorry for the delay in reply, people. yes, I dropped the car down and looked at it, NOT jacked up. Also, yes, I removed the 2 big bolts from strut, but no slop at those bolts at all- not sure if that matters. Top one is splined, botom one is not. man, that splined bolt needed some pounding to get it back in! Definitely no slack there, right?

Yes, finally drove it today, and noticed it pulls to left. BUT, when arrived to work after 10 miles, loked at the wheels, and visualy they looked soo much better. Put a level up against the tires and level appeared better. Still, probably no way out of doing alignment. Might as well admit it. 

Thanks for so many replies/advice!!!!!


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