# ridge vent opening cut too big



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Other than replacing the boards, the only option I can think of is to find a ridge vent that is WIDER than most ridge vents. I don't know if such an animal exists but you could check with a roofing supply company.


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

can I add another 1" strip and narrow the gap and then install the felt afterwards?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

With a 1' strip the hole will still be to big and it will be impossable to drive a nail into.
How wide is that last piece of sheathing?
If it's a full sheet or close to it, just measure down from the middle of the peak of the roof 18", snap a chaulk line, make a 3/4" deep cut and remove that part. Now install new piece the right width.

That cut was suppost to be 1-3/4 on each side from the peak.

http://www.lowes.com/cd_Install+a+Ridge+Vent_798471914_


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

oh boy, I messed up big time! This is going to be much more difficult than I imagined. I'm not too handy with the circular saw so afraid that I may cut the rafters underneath sheathing. 

I'll try to post pictures shortly.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not sure how you could do any damage if you just set the saw to 3/4 depth.


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

OK, here are the pics.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

khome, how did you end up with such a variation of cuts on your sheathing? It looks as though you pieced the sheathing together? Usually you simply apply the sheathing and then snap chalk lines that meet the requirements of width for your ridge vent.........then you do as Joe said, you set your circular saw depth so that it DOES NOT cut into an rafters and follow the chalk line. If you put small pieces in place to cover the over cuts, you will find out that Joe is right........your nails going into the ridge vent will likely miss any solid wood.


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

I'm a newbie and really this is my first big project. You are right that I pieced the sheathing together thinking that it would be easier to cut them while they are on the "ground" --- big mistake.

so, for now snapping 18" line, cutting it and adding another piece as Joe suggested, is that the only solution I have? Is the current opening too wide?

Appreciate your help.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I think you should pull all the sheathing off and start over. The sheathing seams need to break on a rafter not in between them.

It would be pretty easy to walk you through on how to properly sheet that roof.


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

kwikfishron said:


> I think you should pull all the sheathing off and start over. The sheathing seams need to break on a rafter not in between them.
> 
> It would be pretty easy to walk you through on how to properly sheet that roof.


I'm planning on adding 4 more rafters (2 on each side) for those seams. How easy is it remove all the sheathing and what is the procedure?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

kkhome said:


> I'm planning on adding 4 more rafters (2 on each side) for those seams. How easy is it remove all the sheathing and what is the procedure?



The procedure is pulling nails, how easy it is depends on how many and what type of nails you used.

If you were to add rafters you would only need one per seam but that doesn’t solve your original problem. 

I’d rather see you take a step backwards and do it right instead of pushing forward with a scab fix that would likely take the same amount of time and more materials. 

How big is this roof?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Look close guys, he layed the OSB vertical not horizontal.
It's all got to come off and be redone.
All seams must land on a rafter, there must be H clips between the rafters on the OSB to keep it from sagging between them.


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

kwikfishron said:


> The procedure is pulling nails, how easy it is depends on how many and what type of nails you used.
> 
> If you were to add rafters you would only need one per seam but that doesn’t solve your original problem.
> 
> ...


The roof is 11x10 with a pitch of 3:12. I used Hitachi galvazined nail using a framing gun and there are a lots of nails -- I'd say 7 to 8 on each rafter.

I would need 4 rafters since there are 4 joints on the OSB.


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Look close guys, he layed the OSB vertical not horizontal.
> It's all got to come off and be redone.
> All seams must land on a rafter, there must be H clips between the rafters on the OSB to keep it from sagging between them.


Is it preferable to lay the OSB horizontal vs. verticle? I was going to lay it horizontal initially but the stupid voice in my head said that water may not run that way if it ever seeped in. So I layed it vertically.

What is an H clip, can you please share a link of the pic (if possible)?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What did you use for the center to center spacing for the rafters?
It should have been 24 or 16".


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## kkhome (Sep 9, 2012)

joecaption said:


> What did you use for the center to center spacing for the rafters
> It should have been 24 or 16".


I'm not 100% but rafters are spaced 23" in between center to center, but the spacing between first and second, and last and one before is 24 1/2". Call me newbie :whistling2:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Your going to need one of these. :thumbsup: http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=eD9NUNKyJOKY2AWd3IH4Ag&ved=0CHsQ8gIwAQ


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Sheathing does not keep water out, tar paper and shingles keep water out.
Sheathing is never ever ran vertical. It would take away all the sheath streingth of the roof.
http://griphclip.com/

Lowes and Home Depot both have H clips. Make sure to buy the right size.


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