# Fixing Wall With Slight Outward Bow



## JonnyDIY (Jul 14, 2018)

Here is a picture for reference...…


https://imgur.com/k9hOaSL


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

While you have your baseboard off, drive sheetrock (1 5/8" course thread) screws into the bottom plate and in any adjacent stud. Once you apply your new baseboard, you could run finish screws into the baseboard and into the adjacent studs behind it. That would tend to pull the wall back into correctness. All bets are off if you try to use MDF baseboard.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If that is an interior wall, does the room next door have a matching hump?


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Might be a DWV run and the bottom plate is strapped or heavily nail plated.???


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## JonnyDIY (Jul 14, 2018)

Thank you Chandler and Neal for the replies! 

I went ahead and took some more pictures to help better understand and took the baseboard off as well.

https://imgur.com/sq9H7nh (notice the nail pop in the picture. slightly above there is where the wall starts to not be flush on both sides if you put a level there and it gets less flush as you go down to the baseboards) 

https://imgur.com/8LPVvSg

https://imgur.com/gmJdd35

https://imgur.com/qIyC1E5 (that was in the process of taking off the baseboard)

https://imgur.com/zB7ZgIk

https://imgur.com/a8HFhtE

https://imgur.com/4m9cC6H

https://imgur.com/CQFilLk


Hopefully the pictures help. I should mention that the house is a town house and the walls are common walls. 

I am going to be hanging 5/8" sheetrock over the existing wall as part of a sound proofing project and as such I want to have the existing wall straight as possible before hanging the additional sheetrock with green glue noise proofing compound applied. 

The house has a lot of nail pops, so I wonder if that could have something to do with it as well. Could it be a nail pop below the existing sheetrock pushing out the sheetrock?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I suspect you have a warped bottom plate or a warped stud.
I would cut out some drywall and have a look. If you are covering it later you don't need to tape the seems when you replace it.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

IMO, it almost looks like the electrical box was not cut out well for the drywall, not allowing it to draw back to the stud. Or maybe there is another electrical box to the left of the existing one, that was not cut out and covered over with the drywall. (IE: telephone/TV cable box)


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I'm going with Mtn Remodel LLC's venture. It looks as if there is an obstruction directly on the bottom of one stud, like a no nail plate . Since you have the base off, cut vertically 2" or so and 3" wide on the sheetrock at the bottom and pull off the plug. You will be able to see what is going on. Still don't know if this is a plumbing wall or not. Would help to know, as it could be 2x4 and should have been 2x6, and you have a pipe protruding too far out.


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## JonnyDIY (Jul 14, 2018)

Thanks again for all the replies!

I went ahead and cut open a small part of the wall and what is causing the issue is the 2 x 4 furring strip against the concrete block wall. Pictures posted below.

The strip looks to have turned from being flush with the wall. I am assuming this occurred over time due to settling or maybe the wood was not completely dry and warped when installed.

So the question is now how to fix? 

I have this occurrence in five areas of all the common walls (first and second floor). This is the worst example and the wall becomes flush and level again 30" up from the bottom of the floor with other areas becoming flush and level between 10" and 20" up from the floor. 

Any help is again appreciated and if I should move this topic to another area of this site, please let me know and I will post a new thread.

https://imgur.com/EILxb2U
https://imgur.com/A3fsmQV
https://imgur.com/ywGEgMv
https://imgur.com/Ao4Eg3N
https://imgur.com/0vBsaSZ
https://imgur.com/XDgzfJc 
https://imgur.com/d7TP1WG
https://imgur.com/uVEYVmN
https://imgur.com/lOqMlGX


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JonnyDIY said:


> Thanks again for all the replies!
> 
> I went ahead and cut open a small part of the wall and what is causing the issue is the 2 x 4 furring strip against the concrete block wall. Pictures posted below.
> 
> ...


Does it look like it was originally nailed the block wall,


Can you stick you phone in and take pictures straight up.
Would like to see if it is a full height stud or is it just a block to nail that outlet too, what it looks like further up.


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## JonnyDIY (Jul 14, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Does it look like it was originally nailed the block wall,
> 
> 
> Can you stick you phone in and take pictures straight up.
> Would like to see if it is a full height stud or is it just a block to nail that outlet too, what it looks like further up.


Hi Neal. Please see below picture:

https://imgur.com/CD6K2Sj

It does not look to be a full height stud. It looks to go up about three or four feet with a slight break and then another 2 x 4.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

There a few ways to go, lets start with the easy one.
If you have ever tried to nail a stud in place with a nail on an angle, you know how hard it is to keep the stud in place. We use that when we want to move a board.
2 nails about 1/2" apart into the upright on an angle down at the same time and see if it will move in and stay there.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Moisture is your problem.
Use an attachment fastener like the Hollow Wall Anchor installed to pull the 2 X 4 back tight to the CMU wall than re screw the drywall back to the stud.


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## JonnyDIY (Jul 14, 2018)

Thanks Neal and Clarence! Sounds like I am going to need to remove more of the drywall to fix. And it sounds like the best way to fix is to correct the 2 x 4. 

My only hesitancy is that I have never nailed into or cement block or used anchor bolts in hollow cinder blocks (or concrete for that matter) ever before.

I was searching around online and thinking about it some more and could any of these suggestions work and maybe be easier?

1. Use a hand planer/rasp to shave the drywall down where there is the slight bows and then use a sealer to seal the now exposed gypsum.

2. Float and feather to level with mud. I found this YouTube video showing what I mean. 





3. Remove 5/8 drywall where bows are and replace with 3/8 drywall in the areas to be flush and level.

4. Remove drywall and plane the 2 x 4 down with a power planer enough to be flush and level when putting 5/8 back on.

You guys know much better than I for sure, but I figured I would ask if any of those alternatives could work. As you know, it is just being covered with new 5/8 anyway, so it does not have to be perfect. Just good enough to get rid of/hide those darn bows!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Remove the dry wall 6" wide up to where the hump stops and cut an remove the 2x4.
Slide a piece of plywood in both side and screw thru the drywall into the plywood and the plywood will give you backing for the repair drywall.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

You can use something like a Hilti Sleeve Anchor.
Check out these HLC-F-P-H or HLC- RS either one would work you don't have to remove the existing drywall use a paddle type bit to make the larger hole in the drywall than use the hammer drill & bit for selected size anchor install anchor and tighten to pull the stud tight to the CMU & patch larger hole in drywall.


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