# Shower drain installation



## cjf1980 (Jul 18, 2009)

These are the instructions for the drain installation with a neo base shower I just bought.
It has a locking nut over a seal for the bottom (not shown in pic), but the drain pipe to the p-trap sticks in the drain assembly as shown and is sealed with a black washer/donut inside the drain assembly.

Something does not feel right here.
Am I missing something or is this good?

Thanks,
CJ

I've also attached a smaller graphic of the instructions


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## cjf1980 (Jul 18, 2009)

Here's the modification I intend making.
Rather than have the drain pipe from the P-trap inside the drain assembly, I was going to put a reducer around the drainassembly which then hooks up with the p-trap.

Just wandering if this would work or should I stick with the manufacturers instructions.

Thanks,
CJ


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## adpanko (Jun 18, 2009)

*Install as directed*

The configuration your instructions describe is called a "no-caulk" drain; it is quite common and quite effective. It makes installation really easy. Basically, the 2" PVC from the trap extends upward into the drain hole of the shower base. I believe it is generally supposed to extend up 2" from the bottom of the drain cup/mold in the shower base, and it has to be centered in the hole. Then, you just push the black rubber ring/gasket down around the pipe, and it seals it really well. You'll need to lube the ring/gasket up with some liquid soap though, because it fits in so snug, you can't get it on if it is dry.

Don't try to modify anything such as putting on a reducer, etc. You will just be making a lot more work for yourself and it likely won't end up working as effectively as the no-caulk setup that you are supposed to use.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

adpanko said:


> The configuration your instructions describe is called a "no-caulk" drain; it is quite common and quite effective. It makes installation really easy. Basically, the 2" PVC from the trap extends upward into the drain hole of the shower base. I believe it is generally supposed to extend up 2" from the bottom of the drain cup/mold in the shower base, and it has to be centered in the hole. Then, you just push the black rubber ring/gasket down around the pipe, and it seals it really well. You'll need to lube the ring/gasket up with some liquid soap though, because it fits in so snug, you can't get it on if it is dry.
> 
> Don't try to modify anything such as putting on a reducer, etc. You will just be making a lot more work for yourself and it likely won't end up working as effectively as the no-caulk setup that you are supposed to use.


X2 this guy is on the money.


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## cjf1980 (Jul 18, 2009)

adpanko said:


> The configuration your instructions describe is called a "no-caulk" drain; it is quite common and quite effective. It makes installation really easy. Basically, the 2" PVC from the trap extends upward into the drain hole of the shower base. I believe it is generally supposed to extend up 2" from the bottom of the drain cup/mold in the shower base, and it has to be centered in the hole. Then, you just push the black rubber ring/gasket down around the pipe, and it seals it really well. You'll need to lube the ring/gasket up with some liquid soap though, because it fits in so snug, you can't get it on if it is dry.
> 
> Don't try to modify anything such as putting on a reducer, etc. You will just be making a lot more work for yourself and it likely won't end up working as effectively as the no-caulk setup that you are supposed to use.


Thanks for the info, Adpanko. I guess these newer seals work wonders.
I also saw the range of drains at oatey and was more comfortable with the 102 solvent weld drains rather than the 140 series no caulk drains. Both are recommended with preformed shower bases.
I don't have a problem with caulking. Just want to avoid ripping off the ceiling drywall in the room below in a couple of years to see mold and rot from a drip leak. I think I'll just replace the entire drain assembly with the 102.

Was wondering - have you seen leaks with the no caulk drains with time. Or does the rubber gasket expand and contract with change in season and stays that way for a long time ( 20-30 years) without leaking. My current cast iron p-trap with a lead ring was good for 40 years.


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## cjf1980 (Jul 18, 2009)

Alan said:


> X2 this guy is on the money.


Thanks Alan. I think I'll just replace the entire drain assembly with the oatey solvent weld type.

Was wondering if you have seen leaks with the no caulk drain. Also replacing the donut seal would be really easy with the no caulk drain if it leaks.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I've installed dozens of the shower drains with the rubber dough nut. Never had a problem.

One additional install tip--Make sure the P-trap is secure so it doesn't move while you are pounding in the doughnut,

I generally put a piece of wood blocking under the P-trap. I also sand a slight taper at the top of the pipe so the sharp edge doesn't grab the rubber.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Ditto on securing the p-trap _permanently_.

Those are the only leaks i've ever seen over time when the p-trap drops and is no longer inside of the donut. We even went and fixed one once, cut a hole out in sheetrock, put a block of lumber in there to hold the p-trap up, send bill, advise sheetrock repair.

Get a call a month later, it's leaking again pls come and fix it. Go back, re-open sheetrock, block has been removed by sheetrocker to use for a nailer. :laughing::laughing::laughing:


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## cjf1980 (Jul 18, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> I've installed dozens of the shower drains with the rubber dough nut. Never had a problem.
> 
> One additional install tip--Make sure the P-trap is secure so it doesn't move while you are pounding in the doughnut,
> 
> I generally put a piece of wood blocking under the P-trap. I also sand a slight taper at the top of the pipe so the sharp edge doesn't grab the rubber.


Thanks for the tip Mike. I checked the donut install and it fits real snug.
However I am still in favor of the solvent weld drain I picked up yesterday. Not sure why - I guess you may call it old school.
You guys are great.

CJ


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