# Standing seam roof questions



## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

I was given enough standing seam roof to cover my pizza oven. Obviously a seam roller is not available, so I just plan on using NP1 to adhere and seal the seams. Here is a similar panel, though the seam profile itself is round.

http://www.englertinc.com/roofing-panels.aspx?Page=9

Here is the roof framed, and with fascia and drip edge installed:


















My questions:

At the front, should I extend the panels say 1/2" then bend it down over drip edge or just seal that joint with the NP1?

Also at the front against the chimney, should I build a small cricket or just crease the panel to encourage the rain to the sides?

Should the panels be cut flush with the edge of the drip edge or set back just a tad on the other 3 sides?

The chimney will be counter flashed, no problems there, but I have never done any metal roofing of any kind.


Thanks!


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Hopefully, these links of my work will help. No NP1 needed. No seam roller needed. Mallet and block. Never cut. Always fold and double fold.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Tin Roofing photo_gallery.htm

[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=92&file=593&s=0[/url]

[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=964&file=7495&s=0[/url]

[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=137&file=926&s=0[/url]

The link to all my online albums.
http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/photo_album_list.asp?u=30


----------



## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

To be honest, I looked at all of those pictures, and I didn't find the answers. Beautiful work though.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

I was too busy to go into detail last night and have to leave in 10 minutes.

I thought the pix would show how to fold pieces in around the chimney, and how to fold the metal around the drip-edges. I always allow 1/4" to 1/2" play when folding dripedges. 
Allow 1/8" to 3/8" play around the chimney so the roof can move. 
Double lock folds around the chimney. Just cutting to the chimney or edges will cause leaks.
Just caulking will cause leaks.
You can call in the afternoon if you want.
It's all about metal folds, and never having to use caulk, or if necessary, use it so it's hidden, not surface caulked. That will cause leaks too.
Roof caulk is not made to waterproof anything. It just fills gaps when there are imperfections in the roof mating surfaces when joining panels.


----------



## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

Sounds good. I am not going to surface caulk anything for certain. Thinking about it, I have figured out how to take care of every joint by folding except for the corners around the chimney. Those I may try to sweat.

Thanks!


----------



## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

OK, Mr. Tinner, everything worked out just like you said, although my left forearm curses you. Here is the only place I can't figure out how to flash properly, how do I do it?


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Well, the front side should have been cut vertically. The side piece wouldn't matter. You'd put a bead of caulk on the corner, and one or two across the pan to stop the capillary action and install another side piece with a tinner's wing past the corner.

The steel roof/chimney pic shows the gap left when cut wrong. Harder to finish off. THe cure was to make an apron that fitted behind the tinner's wings on each corner.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

With wings, the possibility of corner leaks are eliminated.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Your back pan should be made of a solid piece that passes both sides of the chimney and becomes the standing seams on each side. The top of it should fold over and lock onto the drip edge above the chimney.
The corners can be folded 2" to 6" from the chimney corner.
I'd put 1-2 beads of caulk on each side to stop capillary action too! None exposed, of course.

DOne correctly, the metal does the water proofing. The caulk fills a few voids, and seperates the metal pans from each other.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

I forgot to mention. Stop the cut on the front tinner's wing about 1-1/2" past the corner. Never cut them tight. Use a piece of scrap to test.


----------

