# Change a door from left hand to right hand?



## mhaucke (Jul 8, 2007)

Can I change a door from left hand to right hand. I moved the hinges to the other jam and I flipped the hinges on the door. Doesn't work. Any hints? am I trying something impossible:huh:? Thank you. Mike


----------



## Scratch (Oct 6, 2007)

Many do it all the time. But apparently not the way you are doing it. It's not a simple manner of moving hinges to other jamb and flipping hinges on door. 

What kind of door? Room door or cabinet?



Do you know how to set hinges? Do you know how to set striker and latch? 

If it's a room door, hinges have to be located EXACTLY and recessed into jamb and door. Take a look at how hinges are on any door and replicate. BTW, it's not as easy as it looks if you have no experience.


----------



## slakker (May 29, 2007)

Maybe a picture? I swung mine over and basically did what you described and it works... so can't imagine what's not working?


----------



## mhaucke (Jul 8, 2007)

I did recess the hinges into the jamb and I did locate them exactly ( well within 1/8 inch maybe). I do know how to use a chisel, so I can do the striker and latch, but admittedly not experienced. It appears that the door edge (away from the hinges) is beveled. The door almost fits/closes it clears on the top edge but hits on the bottom edge. maybe I just need to recess the bottom hinge some more.


----------



## slakker (May 29, 2007)

If the hinge heights are right, then it does sound like a bit of chisel work to ensure the hinges are set at the same depths...


----------



## Scratch (Oct 6, 2007)

OK, it sounds like you understand the process and have the skill.

If the door fits in the jamb without the hinges, then it should fit with the hinges. As you know the surface of the hinges should be flush with the surface into which they are set. If they protrude a bit, it will cause the door not to fit properly. And you do not want them below the surface - well maybe 
1/64" is OK


----------



## bigchaz (Jun 28, 2006)

What do you guys do with the exposed latch hole?

And what about when you flip the hinge on the door, the notch goes all the across and is no longer contoured to the shape of the hinge?


----------



## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

is this an inexpensive door?


----------



## Scratch (Oct 6, 2007)

bigchaz said:


> What do you guys do with the exposed latch hole?
> 
> And what about when you flip the hinge on the door, the notch goes all the across and is no longer contoured to the shape of the hinge?


I just did one last month. All old and not to be used routed areas were filled with wood pieces cut to shape and sanded flush. I find that Titebond III is a superior wood glue. Seams around the filler pieces were filled with Elmers Wood Filler, sanded, primed and painted. If the filler piece and patching is flawless, you will only notice pacth if you look hard.


----------



## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

If your working with an older door it may be truely handed rh/lh. 

Check the door edge with a square to see if it has a bevel. 

Might have to kick the hinges with a shim once they are set.


----------



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

As you stated, the door edge is beveled. That way the leading edge clears the jamb when it's closed. When you reverse it, the leading edge 'hits" the jamb first and usually rubs the frame. Recessing the hinges will usually make the door hit the hinge side of the frame causing the door to bind and cause a lever situation causing the screws to pull out over time. To have the door clear the frame and close, you can clip off the leading edge of the door with a straight edge and a power saw or rip the hinge side and reset the hinges. In either case the gap on the latch side will be exaggerated.
Ron


----------

