# what kind of table saw?



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Honestly, for a homeowner and your use, look at Royabi's saws. They are terrific for HO use.


(My son in building his home, finally "destroyed" an old belt driven Craftsman of mine.

So he borrowed a friends Royabi, and that thing did great.... from framing lumber, to garden timbers, to hardy cement sideing. I was really surprized. Yes, it is getting on it's last legs now.... but it did great, and is still in use)


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Honestly, for a homeowner and your use, look at Royabi's saws. They are terrific for HO use.
> 
> 
> (My son in building his home, finally "destroyed" an old belt driven Craftsman of mine.
> ...


Yup, can't beat a loaner deal. Wonder what it cost, or if it's ok to buy them used on Craigs list or somewhere like that.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I have built a few hundred decks never needed a table saw.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Nealtw said:


> I have built a few hundred decks never needed a table saw.


Doesn't matter....... Decks are a great excuse to buy all sorts of tools... table saws/miters/cement mixers/drills/hammer drills/routers/planers...etc.

About the only thing they can't justify is lawn mowers.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Jacey said:


> Yup, can't beat a loaner deal. Wonder what it cost, or if it's ok to buy them used on Craigs list or somewhere like that.


Assuming you feel comfortable inspecting a table saw, I have got GREAT deals off Craigs list.... many HO's have gotten a tool for just one specific use, and happy to get it out of their garage.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Doesn't matter....... Decks are a great excuse to buy all sorts of tools... table saws/miters/cement mixers/drills/hammer drills/routers/planers...etc.
> 
> About the only thing they can't justify is lawn mowers.


 Fair enough but ripping lumber with a crown is easier with a skill saw.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Fair enough but ripping lumber with a crown is easier with a skill saw.


I have 14 boards that need a sliver taken off to make my 1.75 overhang. Not something I feel confident to do with a skilsaw, considering these boards cost 22 bux a piece. Are true 2.6's so pretty beefy, with little anomalies thruoughout. My neighbor was helping, but he's had stint #4 put in lately and not up to anything like this. Hated to bother him with it in the first place...so looking for a reasonable solution before the 110 degree weather changes everything up there!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jacey said:


> I have 14 boards that need a sliver taken off to make my 1.75 overhang. Not something I feel confident to do with a skilsaw, considering these boards cost 22 bux a piece. Are true 2.6's so pretty beefy, with little anomalies thruoughout. My neighbor was helping, but he's had stint #4 put in lately and not up to anything like this. Hated to bother him with it in the first place...so looking for a reasonable solution before the 110 degree weather changes everything up there!


 Skill saws come with a little fence that slides into the table, with a little practice you get a real nice cut.
After you get good at that, you get tired of that and just pinch the front of the saw table between finger and thumb and let your finger nail run along the board.:wink2:
But doing that does take practice. I have screwed a block under the table to get a more accurate cut especially if I had lots to do.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Skill saws come with a little fence that slides into the table, with a little practice you get a real nice cut.
> After you get good at that, you get tired of that and just pinch the front of the saw table between finger and thumb and let your finger nail run along the board.:wink2:
> But doing that does take practice. I have screwed a block under the table to get a more accurate cut especially if I had lots to do.


Right..you are making my point


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jacey said:


> Right..you are making my point


 If you use a table saw, crown the lumber and put the crown to the fence.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> If you use a table saw, crown the lumber and put the crown to the fence.


Not to be totally clueless, but why do you say that?


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Because otherwise, you'll bind the blade on the table saw as the board curvature starts moving the board away from the fence, and if you can "shove it through", you'll end up with a board that is wider on the ends than the middle.

By running the curvature (crown) against the fence, you'll get a more consistent and even board width.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jacey said:


> Not to be totally clueless, but why do you say that?


Again practice with cheap lumber. see post by @F250


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

I needed a table saw and ended up going the contractor saw route. It folds up, which is important to me.

I got the Ridgid one, and I've been very pleased with it. I don't know if I could use it to build expensive kitchen cabinets, but I've done some good things with it. 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...R4513/100090444?N=5yc1vZc29i#customer_reviews


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I was impressed with this one.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1...-Gravity-Rise-Wheeled-Stand-4100-10/305123099


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

NickTheGreat said:


> I needed a table saw and ended up going the contractor saw route. It folds up, which is important to me.
> 
> I got the Ridgid one, and I've been very pleased with it. I don't know if I could use it to build expensive kitchen cabinets, but I've done some good things with it.
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...R4513/100090444?N=5yc1vZc29i#customer_reviews


What did you wind up paying for it?

Folding up sounds good..I finally found space in my shed to set one up though. Are there any more recommendations anybody?


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

Jacey said:


> What did you wind up paying for it?
> 
> Folding up sounds good..I finally found space in my shed to set one up though. Are there any more recommendations anybody?


I paid around the $400 for it. But it comes with the stand. All in all a nice contractor saw. I was using it to rip boards for shelves and cubbies. It's not well suited for 4x8 sheets. Circular saw is better for that.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

NickTheGreat said:


> I paid around the $400 for it. But it comes with the stand. All in all a nice contractor saw. I was using it to rip boards for shelves and cubbies. It's not well suited for 4x8 sheets. Circular saw is better for that.


Right. I'm mostly wanting to trim dimensional lumber, true 2x cedar.

I saw one on sale at HD for closer to 700.00. More than I wanted to pay. Has it been a while or did they put it on sale? $00 sounds reasonable for a good saw setup.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

The Ridgid is what I use on jobsites and it performs well. All my portable equipment either folds and rolls or is light. Bought it at a pawn shop for $200. Check pawn shops for deals.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I bought a DeWalt table saw in the spring. They were on sale for $499. It has the wheels for making it easier to move around. Haven't had much time to play around with it, but, I felt it was a good deal.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> The Ridgid is what I use on jobsites and it performs well. All my portable equipment either folds and rolls or is light. Bought it at a pawn shop for $200. Check pawn shops for deals.


I meant 400.00 not $00.00 back on that last post. But 200 is more in my budget. 
I meant to also ask if there's a preference if you have 10'-12'ers, will these portables do well with that as far as stability goes?


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

10" saw is more common and works just fine. I do use 12" on my compound miter saw. As far as stability goes, it is a rock and is used 3 or 4 days a week all day long. Never a whimper. It has a rather large table, larger than the Bosch, and I like the fence set up as well. Oh, the table will extend to the right, probably 16" or so for wider boards.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> 10" saw is more common and works just fine. I do use 12" on my compound miter saw. As far as stability goes, it is a rock and is used 3 or 4 days a week all day long. Never a whimper. It has a rather large table, larger than the Bosch, and I like the fence set up as well. Oh, the table will extend to the right, probably 16" or so for wider boards.


Oh, by 10'-12' I meant length of the boards. Was wondering about them being stable to cut, but sounds like you answered it with the rather large table. With the right height fence makes a world of difference.


I do have a 10" extender compound miter as well..but was wanting to do 45's on 2"x12" cedar. Is that even possible, or can you just flip the board to get that with a 10"?


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Any DIY'er needs a good table saw, handy as a shirt pocket to have one. I have worked my little benchtop 10" Ryobi like a mule for 12 years now and its still going. But for ripping 2"x 6" x 10" boards, a benchtop TS will not do the job safely. The bigger floor models as suggested, will be needed.

Because one is trying to pass a board through a stationary rip fence and a stationary rotating blade doing around 5500 RPM. Neither the fence or blade will want to give any if the board is bound up while passing it through the blade. 

The blade is going to want to pinch, or "kick back" between the blade and the rip fence with the slightest uneven motion of the board or crown being cut off. 

And even for the big commercial heavy plate units, ripping 2x"s can be a challenge. The hardest part about ripping 2x's on a table saw is keeping the board flat on the table and not getting "kickbacks". When this happens, it usually leaves a kick back saw cut from the blade , that's not wanted on the board. Even more likely to happen if the boards are crowned a bit much. 

So passing a 10 ft. long board through a table saw to rip by ones self is a challenge even for the pros. Even with helpers holding the end of the board, if it rises or falls or is pulled slightly to the side by the helper as it is going through the blade...kick back time. 

So if I were to attempt to rip 2"x6"x 10 ft. boards on a table saw, which I would not because I would use a circular saw, I would have a couple of these "helpers" shown in the pic. 

Get them set up stable, to where the board will be DEAD even flat with the table on the entry and exit ends , put some weights on them for stability and then roll the boards on them, while doing the rips. They come in handy a lot for solitary wood workers, pipe work. welders, etc.. All JMO


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Yeah, I didn't understand, or my eyesight was not in tuned. Longer boards should be ripped with a circle saw. I do it on mine, but I have a 4' run off table, plus the 3' saw table, so it is pretty stable. Now, that is on my Delta Unisaw in the shop, not the portable. I would never rip that long a board without a helper and the runoffs Greg mentioned.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

I knew if we talked long enough you'd talk me out of it. I agree with all the above. My neighbor whose recovering is a professional woodworker. I guess I'll have to wait for him to recuperate.

To his credit, he does these long boards by himself, and won't even let me help. 

Fraid I'll get hurt, lol!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jacey said:


> I knew if we talked long enough you'd talk me out of it. I agree with all the above. My neighbor whose recovering is a professional woodworker. I guess I'll have to wait for him to recuperate.
> 
> To his credit, he does these long boards by himself, and won't even let me help.
> 
> Fraid I'll get hurt, lol!


Go buy a few junk boards and learn how to use your saw.
for a full 2" board on a 45* an 8 1/2 inch saw would be the trick.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Go buy a few junk boards and learn how to use your saw.
> for a full 2" board on a 45* an 8 1/2 inch saw would be the trick.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gm4ysyPI6kg


I think I've confused things a bit by mentioning the 45 cut on the 12" board with ripping the 10' footers. Two different saws with two different problems.

My compound miter will 45 beautifully my 2x6...but not sure about the 12" boards. That 's where I asked if they could be flipped to achieve that with a 10" saw blade.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jacey said:


> I think I've confused things a bit by mentioning the 45 cut on the 12" board with ripping the 10' footers. Two different saws with two different problems.
> 
> My compound miter will 45 beautifully my 2x6...but not sure about the 12" boards. That 's where I asked if they could be flipped to achieve that with a 10" saw blade.


 Yeah you can but.............You can guess what I'm thinking.:biggrin2::surprise:


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Yeah you can but.............You can guess what I'm thinking.:biggrin2::surprise:


Ha! Let me rephrase that...is there a way to cut a 45 on a 12" board using a compound miter saw...if so what would that method be? And I know, a circular saw would do it too, and probably will. But I've found that even my guy who really knows how to run one of those didn't have the great results I got with my Kobalt, which I love, BTW.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jacey said:


> Ha! Let me rephrase that...is there a way to cut a 45 on a 12" board using a compound miter saw...if so what would that method be? And I know, a circular saw would do it too, and probably will. But I've found that even my guy who really knows how to run one of those didn't have the great results I got with my Kobalt, which I love, BTW.


 You flip the board over and reset the saw at the other 45. BUT again if you have a crown the 45 might not line up perfectly. Then you leave the saw at the first 45 and flip the board end to end.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Unless the OP is going to be building more decks, if I were him I would load those boards up and drop them off at the local pro lumber/yard/mill/shop. (not a BB store) 

Get them beveled or planed as needed. Probably would not cost half what a table saw would cost, and the floor models take up a lot of space to store one. JMO


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

You can't even miter an 8" board on a 12" saw without flipping it, and flipping the head, so it is always best to use a Swanson square and your circle saw to miter wider boards.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Cutting a 45 on a 1x12 with a portable circular saw. That's something I've never done or needed to do and just as soon as the weather cools a bit I've gotta try that.


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## Jacey (Dec 7, 2011)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Cutting a 45 on a 1x12 with a portable circular saw. That's something I've never done or needed to do and just as soon as the weather cools a bit I've gotta try that.


My scenario is with a *2*x12"


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Jacey said:


> My scenario is with a *2*x12"


I have plenty of old 1x12 fence boards. I'll just stack um up to thickness:biggrin2:


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## hankdiy (Jul 10, 2018)

Yep
I got a Ridgid contractor table saw too. Seems to be well made. Works fine.


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