# reframing attic ceiling



## 195795 (May 24, 2013)

ipokrov said:


> Hello, I want to raise the ceiling in my attic room but when i opened the ceiling I found these boards (2) that run across ,it looks like 3/4" and about 6" high, I took a picture of one of them, so they question is what are they for? and can I make them shorter / move up? I was going to frame new ceiling from 2x6 boards - so its going to be stronger than these boards...
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Here we go again - go ahead Neal :smile:


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

They prevent wind lift at the peak, they can be anywhere in the upper third of the rafter. So yes you can move them up. Just not so high so the insulation blocks the common venting unless you have a ridge vent. 
I hope you are looking at venting high and low and insulation depth and air sealing while you are there.


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> They prevent wind lift at the peak, they can be anywhere in the upper third of the rafter. So yes you can move them up. Just not so high so the insulation blocks the common venting unless you have a ridge vent.
> I hope you are looking at venting high and low and insulation depth and air sealing while you are there.



Thanks!, unfortunately i don't have a ridge went, I have 2 openings at each end of the house with a cover with slots for air to come in, sorry don't know what they are called. I also have 2 air vents on the roof small ones about 10"x10", I can see it now that I opened the ceiling.

My plan was to install the roof vents (https://www.homedepot.com/p/ADO-Pro...after-Vent-10-Per-Carton-UPV1448010/202541345) between the rafters from knee wall all the way to the level where roof vents are. then I want to add 2x4s above the color ties and put R15 insulation in the ceiling, between the rafters and on the knee walls I will put R19 insulation.

This will give me about 10" from top of insulation to the ridge board, but still below the roof vent the only problem I see is with the ventilation opening , but to mitigate  that I will not come in straight into it at that height , but slope down from last rafter to the bottom of that opening.

Is this cutting it too close?


and what is air sealing?


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

forgot to ask, is there a reason they are made from these, hmm crappy boards?, not a 2x6 same as rafters? is that because they need to be flexible? can I replace them with 4x4 like these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexand...-5-in-x-1-5-in-x-96-in-102X2-DM096C/206876538 



if I replace them, can I use carriage bolts to attache to the rafters?


Thanks
ilya


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The box vent on the roof is too low and the louvered vents on the end are old technology.
I would ignore the box vent and have a ridge vent installed and remove the louvered vents 
The air chutes you posted will be needed above the sloped ceiling as well as over the exterior wall from the vented soffits.


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

I wish that was done when the roof was redone! for now I will have to leave with box vents and louvered vents... does the vents really need to go all the way pass the knee wall? the space beyond knee wall is unheated...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ipokrov said:


> I wish that was done when the roof was redone! for now I will have to leave with box vents and louvered vents... does the vents really need to go all the way pass the knee wall? the space beyond knee wall is unheated...


 You need outside air to get into the space behind the nee wall and then up the slope, not continues .


The problem with not getting the venting right, is that it may not show up for years but when it does it is a big deal.


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## 195795 (May 24, 2013)

You'd be surprised how easy it is to install a ridge vent - you just run your circular saw along either side of the peak with the depth set to just the thickness of the roof sheathing, which gets you your opening and then install the ridge vent itself per manufacturer's instruction. Make sure you have plenty of under eve vents (a continuous one is best) and your insulation baffles and all of a sudden you've got nice air flow :smile:


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

If there was only (2) 1x6 collars one at each end, those could have been just to steady the rafters/ridge board as they were building it. The 2x4s are doing the work. Wood doesn't care how pretty it is, but they do look recycled from plaster covering. No need for 4x4s or bolts, or even 2x6s.

If you raise the collars a bit (doesn't look like you can go more than a few inches) and finish the space which renders the gable vents useless, then the remaining two static vents would be insufficient. Note you do not want both a new ridge vent with lower static vents - pick one or the other.

I wasn't clear on your description of the air chutes and where your kneewall is, but just in case to clarify as Neal said they need to go in every rafter space to unimpede air from the soffit to the ridge exit.


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

Air sealing is in reference to barrier/insulating methods to eliminate any passages where air can enter a conditioned space.


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## 195795 (May 24, 2013)

3onthetree said:


> Note you do not want both a new ridge vent with lower static vents - pick one or the other.


Yes yes - if you install a ridge vent, you do not need those small static vents 

Nice ball 3 :smile:


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

The ventilation concerns here are not related to leaving the lower static vents along with a ridge vent but supplying a source of intake at or near the soffits. I've only heard the gable vents and lower roof vents mentionedplus possible added ridge vents.

Attic ventilation has two power sources, the wind or the height difference between intake and exhaust.

Bud


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

Thanks everyone for your input, the goal is to eventually remove the gable vents and close off the gable vents - when the roof will be redone. thats what a roofer told me should be done 

I will not close the gable vent off - only partially block it. I will run roof vents between the rafters to ensure air supply unfortunately I can do it only on one side of the house the other side I'm not touching and its all finished. I did replace insulation on one side since I had it open, when I got to the part of the wall where hot air supply is I found that back of the box they build almost fell off and hot air has been escaping into attic for years... :vs_mad:

I do want to replace the collar ties but mostly for estatics, my wife wants to leave part of them exposed and stain them dark, kind of a cabin look? the idea was to used 2x8 so with r19 insulation about 2.5" exposed... so I can just nail the 2x8, no need for carriage bolts?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Nails are fine.


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Nails are fine.



Thanks! all done with collar ties!

I have a different question, I was reading about knee walls and different methods of framing and was wondering is there a preferred method? First method I'm considering is without a top plate and studs are nailed right to the rafter or with a top plate and studs are toe nailed to the top plate.

Also, I read somewhere that if I attache the wall to the rafter it immediately becomes a load bearing wall and snow loads and that sort of thing has to be taken into account? is that true?


Thanks


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Just to jump in, but I prefer a top plate on the knee wall to keep the line straight for the drywall. Even though it will be supporting the rafters it will not be a major load bearing wall. But leaving the top plate and placing the studs directly below each rafter will take care of any loading.

Neal can correct me as needed.

Bud


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

Bud9051 said:


> Just to jump in, but I prefer a top plate on the knee wall to keep the line straight for the drywall. Even though it will be supporting the rafters it will not be a major load bearing wall. But leaving the top plate and placing the studs directly below each rafter will take care of any loading.
> 
> Neal can correct me as needed.
> 
> Bud



Thanks, so without the plate I wont have to worry about the load?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Loading the floor would be the concern and should have been part of the calculation before a floor goes in. Usually we want the rafter beefed up for insulation, if that was extended full length it would almost double the loading the roof could take.
Don't forget the solid blocking between the floor joists just below that wall. 
I Have never heard of a problem do to loading of the floor with a nee wall.


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## ipokrov (Dec 8, 2012)

I did add blocking between each joist where I could reach it....


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ipokrov said:


> I did add blocking between each joist where I could reach it....


 There should be no floor behind the nee wall so It all would be reachable. :wink2:


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