# Anyone install a tin/copper style ceiling?



## flashme18 (Jul 22, 2007)

I am a painter, and a customer of mine wants to install this type of ceiling. They sell it in 2'x4' sheets for 75 bucks special order at Lowe's. Is there anywhere cheaper to buy this. And im talking about the real material, not the fake stuff. 


How do you install it. I was told that liquid nail/construction adhesive works or i can use the nails that come with. I was wondering how the seams are managed. The guy from Lowe's seemed to think that strips are installed to cover the seams. 

The ceiling is small and they want can lighting installed as well. So how do I install the tin/copper without making a mistake? I assume the electrician will install the lighting first, then I have to layout my lines where the tin/copper sheeting will go. Then I can measure out where the hole would be on the sheeting and use snips to cut out hole? Can you use one of those electric sheetrock tools for cutting out outlet boxes and stuff like that? 

The ceiling has crown molding. So I planned on butting the sheeting up against the crown so that I dont have to remove the crown and then recaulk, or repaint the walls. 

Here is a pic of the style of copper/tin sheeting from Lowes. 

Thanks

http://images.lowes.com/product/042369/042369511766.jpg


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

I did one once, and the very best thing to do is plywood the ceiling... this way when your nailing the tins up you will hit wood on every one. Personally I would buy the tin crown as well.


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## flashme18 (Jul 22, 2007)

1)So you wouldnt rely on construction adhesive alone? 
2)Do the nails stand out from the sheeting? 
3)How long are the nails? 
4)What did you use to cover the seams? 
5)Have any pix of your ceiling. 
6)How thick was the plywood you used? 1/2 inch?

I dont have a framing nail gun or compressor. I would have to screw the plywood in. 

Thanks


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

flashme18 said:


> 1)So you wouldnt rely on construction adhesive alone?
> 2)Do the nails stand out from the sheeting?
> 3)How long are the nails?
> 4)What did you use to cover the seams?
> ...


The nails are made for the ceiling, so they almost disappear

The seams overlap each other. 

1/2" ply is perfect.


Personally, I wouldn't practice this project on someone else's dime.


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## KatC (Jul 18, 2009)

*tin ceiling*

I just did my kitchen. I had the pot lights installed by my electrician then covered the entire ceiling with plywood. I used 1/4" mahogany (it was the cheapest) and screwed it in.

I started the tin ceiling at the center light fixture and worked my way out. I used a nail gun/compressor. The nails are not noticable, as my design had the grooves for nailing every 6". Have another person help you as keeping it straight and the pattern perfectly aligned takes some time.

I would not use adhesive. The nailing area is provided, and I don't think the adhesive would work due to the raised design. Also, I had to remove and re-position a few tiles and was glad I had just put in a couple of nails.

Cutting around the pot lights was easier than I thought. I actully made a small hole by measuring, then adjusted the cut when it was in place with the tin snips. I had taken out all of the lights ofcourse.

I am now in the process of trimming the ceiling, which I want to do in a built up crown to match my cabinets.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

chris75 said:


> Personally, I wouldn't practice this project on someone else's dime.


Amen. Especially without removing the crown.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

flashme18- -FYI- -A few years back I was visiting a sister in the Atlanta area who is a realtor. She was telling me of a home being built where they lady wanted the tin ceiling tiles installed in the kitchen and the man wanted them in the game room/bar area. They started in the kitchen and halfway through the project they called it to a halt because of: NOISE. Only half the ceiling done and they could tell there would be a noise problem as sounds were bouncing off of the metal panels. Long story short, and I stayed up there to watch this project: they found an interior decorator who put textured wallpaper up on the ceiling that had an almost identical pattern as the metal tiles. After letting this wallpaper dry for at least three days, the decorator had a lady painter come in and paint the covering with a color that closely resembled the copper of the original metal tiles. After this had dried for a day or so, she came back in and somehow lightly sponged on another color that made this wallpaper/now ceiling cover really look like aged metal panels. It looked wonderful. The total cost of the wallpaper/painting project was less than the original metal tiling project. They had the game room/bar done this way also. No noises bouncing around either. Just a thought on this project, David


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## Mom In Charge (Jul 18, 2009)

*Thurman's got it right!*

Add to it that the metal panels require gloves (else, an always-on-site paramedic). If they insist on "the real thing", they will have the budget to hire an experienced installer. Cardboard sheets same size as panels (2'x4', you said?) would be used to mark, cut, dry-fit around the lights before cutting the actual tin panels. Note: tin panels and wooden crown moulding - not of same era/style. And styles change (remember when manufacturers stated all kitchens HAD to have all white, then all black, then all stainless steel appliances?) -- their paneled ceiling$ will, too.


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