# Replacing Shower Valve



## NickFixit (May 30, 2011)

I would avoid putting push fittings in walls because the rubber seal in them will eventually fail, Although it might be 10 years or more.... If you can install an access panel on the other side of the wall from the shower valve then you at least have access to the fittings when they fail, also, there should be no 3/8 fittings, they should all be 1/2 inch.


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks Nick,

I won't have a feasible access to the valve after I'm done tiling.

I think I'm just going to go with all Sharkbite joints and possibly PEX piping to save myself soldering mistakes. It's a learning curve that I really don't need to deal with at the moment. Won't be soldering again any time soon.

Thanks again!


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

There is a big debate as to whether or not push fittings should be used inside a wall. I'm not a plumber, but I wouldn't. Then again, I've had lots of practice soldering lately....


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## Dougtheplumber (Nov 30, 2010)

Go rent the pex crimpers for a few hours and you will not have to worry about the possibility of the shark bite failing.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Please consider using pex and the crimp tool as Doug suggested. Flex lines will be to constrictive and should not be concealed. Try to solder copper x pex adapters and the crimp the rest. If you must, use sharkbites at the copper to pex connection only.
Do you have tub spout too? It needs to be piped with copper and soldered joints- not pex.


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

What do you mean: "Try to solder copper x pex adapters"?

I do have a tub spout. I saw the crimp tool at home depot. They were so expensive.

I didn't realize Sharkbite will eventually fail. You guys have had bad experience with sharkbite?

Thanks


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

suncowiam said:


> What do you mean: "Try to solder copper x pex adapters"?
> 
> I do have a tub spout. I saw the crimp tool at home depot. They were so expensive.
> 
> ...


If your existing lines are copper and you want to convert to pex, you can use a pex x copper adapter and solder it to the copper pipes. With that done, you can run pex. At the valve use a MIP x pex adapter (assuming your valve is threaded)
Do your tub spout in soldered copper or galv. pipe. Do not use sharkbites there. 
You want it as rigid as possible or your spout will flop around:wink:
Shark bite all of the valve if you want(not the spout). I don't have any real beef with them. I just don't trust them


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks!

Bought a PEX crimper and my progress has been much much better.


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

*Please help review my work - =)*

I just finished yesterday and hopefully could get a review of what I've done. I just want to ensure that this will last an eternity as i will installing the cement boards and tiles soon.

Quick comments:
* Used sharkbite coupling from copper to pex.
* Pex to valve. Pex to copper for sprout and shower extension.
* I only used thread tape for the four joints attached to the thread. I'm a little concerned here. Could this fail over time? Do I need to add anything here?

Thanks!


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

I would have used sweat adapters where you went from copper to PEX in the supply lines and for the riser to shower and the tub spout.


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## Jasonlongor1 (Apr 9, 2011)

You still used sharkbites where they won't be accessible....I agree with rjniles using the Pex adapters on supply lines.In your instruction manual does it not say to NOT use a crimped Pex connection for the tub spout?That's been known to cause pressure and restriction issues.Such that water won't stop trickling out of your showerhead.


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

The reason I used the sharkbite is because I couldn't completely stop the water flow from the pipes even after shutting off the main valve. This made soldering very hard with the water. I just heard a tip that I should also turn off the valve off from the water heater. =)

You're right about the manual saying not to use PEX on the drop to the sprout. Darn. I missed that part. Thanks


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

if the water is a slow drip you can shove a small piece of whitebread (not wheat or whole grain) in the pipe then solder. The water will dissolve the bread.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

suncowiam said:


> You're right about the manual saying not to use PEX on the drop to the sprout. Darn. I missed that part. Thanks


Refer to post #6:whistling2:
I wouldn't be overly concerned with the sharkbites- not ideal, but not yet proven to fail either.
Other then the tub spout- nice job!:thumbsup:


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks eplumber. I'm gonna try to drain out the pipes this coming weekend to put in the copper x pex fitting. I'll also add the copper piping to the sprout.

No one replied about the teflon threaded tape used to connect the pex joints to the valve. Should I use a pipe sealant here?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I was taught to use pipe dope and tape. And all the journeyman I work with use both. But if you have water tested your valve it and doesn't leak then I'd leave it alone. A lot of people seem to use only tape.
When trying to solder the adapters on, open a faucet to help drain the water. It might be enough to keep the water out of your risers.
Also make sure your valve is set to the right depth and secured well in the wall before you install the wallboard.


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## NickFixit (May 30, 2011)

Those connections on the shower valve look like a union or compression fitting, if so then you should not use teflon or past on the joint.
You should install an access panel on the other side of the wall so you have access to the valve and fittings in the future.


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## suncowiam (Jun 3, 2009)

Nick,

I believe you're referring to the PEX clamps. Why do you suggest not using teflon in this case and I'm not sure what you mean by "past on the point."

The other side of the wall is the main wall of my bedroom. Our TV is actually there. If anything, I'll have to cut in the drywall in the future for this access.

Thanks


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