# Priming interior bare wood - spruce



## tenaj1964 (Jan 21, 2011)

Hello all,

I am remodeling my home, and have decided to use 1 x 4 spruce for baseboard, crown, and window/door casing (all interior). I want a rather plain look, so I decided not to go with normal molding profiles.

My questions are: 
What type of primer do I use? How many coats of primer? How long in between coats?
What type of paint do I use? How many coats of paint? How long in between coats?
Water-based, oil-based, latex, acrylic, etc. ? 
Type of brush or roller?
How long do I need to aclimate the wood to the house temp? 

I am not that familiar with paint, so please elaborate with your terminology so that I will truly understand.

I am on a budget, so the paint will be bought at either Lowe's or Wal-mart. I have all the time in the world to do this, but want to do it correctly.

Thank you in advance for any help you may give me.


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## Windows (Feb 22, 2010)

tenaj1964 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I am remodeling my home, and have decided to use 1 x 4 spruce for baseboard, crown, and window/door casing (all interior). I want a rather plain look, so I decided not to go with normal molding profiles.
> 
> ...


Use a water based stain blocking primer, one coat - apply before installation. (Others may recommend an oil primer here, but I don't think it is necessary for spruce on an interior installation).

Use a water based acrylic trim paint, two coats - one before installation, one coat after - light sand, fill nail holes, caulk gap before final coat.

Use a 21/2 inch Purdy (or similar) sash brush. (Don't cheap out here :no

Acclimatize the wood for a few days - more for the installation than the painting.

If can manage it - get quality paint. You will only need two gallons (1 primer, 1 paint) so the extra expenditure is small but it makes a big difference especially with door casings and baseboards.


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## mazzonetv (Feb 25, 2009)

My grandfather - who was a painter his whole life - had a saying.... The cheapest almost always turns out to be the most expensive.. something you might want to keep in mind for this project =)

In any case, to answer your question. Priming bare wood is a must - there are some that will only used oil base primers and there are some that will be ok with using latex primers. As a general rule of thumb, you want to use oil based primers for tannin rich woods, where latex primers are fine for most other varieties of wood. Latex primers will, as a general rule of thumb, raise the wood grain a little - so the wood might require a quick sanding after priming with a latex primer. For me, personally if I was painting spruce trim in my house I would probably prime with Zinsser Smart Prime (or 1-2-3 plus - same product), this is an excellent latex primer and will work fine on spruce - if for some reason you have any knots in the wood than that's a differnt story and you should let us know.

After priming, wait an hour or two and give a light sanding to eliminate any wood grain raise. I'm a ben moore fan so I would then look at their Advance product line or Waterborne Satin Impervo. I like the Oil Satin Impervo very much but the Advance gives you a similar look without the smell. I'm not familiar with Wal-Mart or Lowes paint enough to suggest one of their lines - but If you insist on using one of their topcoats I guess any semi gloss paint would do..just remember, your labor is much more costly than the extra ten - twenty bucks a gallon for a high quality paint. 

Let's see - to answer the rest of your questions - the wood should be in the house for at LEAST 3 days, I prefer at least a week..
One coat of primer is fine
Your choice on brush or roller - the mini rollers work great if the trim is relatively smooth and flat.. Sash (Angled) brushes work well for this application too.

Hope that helps some..
good luck


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## tenaj1964 (Jan 21, 2011)

Thank you for your response. :thumbsup:

Attached are a few pictures of the wood. Those are quarters, so you can gauge how large the knots are. These knots are scattered throughout the boards. However, the type of knot that you could actually pop out of the board is few and far between (middle board). Most of the knots feel just as smooth as the board itself.

How do these knots change how to prime the wood? 
What grit sandpaper should be used for the light sanding?

Thanks again.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Definitely use an oil-base primer or those knots will bleed through. Trust me, I've tried every shortcut known to man........Oil base, although a pain in the butt to use will seal those knots up like nobody's business. Allow to dry for a day, sand, remove dust, and apply two coats of your favorite semi-gloss latex.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

You wanted a plain look and you got knots. Now you have got much more work to do.
Latex and or oil based primer will not stop the knots from bleeding through you're finish paint. Now you are locked in to priming with BIN. There really is NO other choice here. You went cheap with the wood, do not compound things by going cheap with the finish paint, please.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I am with chrisn. You really need bin on those knots. Latex primer will bleed through in a couple hours and oil will bleed through in a couple years.


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## mazzonetv (Feb 25, 2009)

exactly what Chrisn said....

Can you return that wood and get clear? If not BIN it is.. Be prepared to spend @ 40 bucks a gallon the stuff - just had a HUGE price increase due to shortages on raw materials.


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