# Larson storm door



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

If you did, the top would cause the window to fall inwards, the bottom kick plate would allow critters and air to get through. As for the handle, it is just Pot metal. Your questions are really answered if you took the time to go to Larson's website and everything is available through their customer service link.

Now of course, you can paint the Brass parts, but then it would look cheap and shoddy.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I think that color looks good with the white oak.
I sure hope that door way on the outside is not exposed to direct sun.
Those full view storms should come with a big warning sticker on them. They act like a solar panel and can distory a door.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> If you did, the top would cause the window to fall inwards, the bottom kick plate would allow critters and air to get through. As for the handle, it is just Pot metal. Your questions are really answered if you took the time to go to Larson's website and everything is available through their customer service link.
> 
> Now of course, you can paint the Brass parts, but then it would look cheap and shoddy.


So your saying stay away from brass? What other type of handle material would you recommend?


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> If you did, the top would cause the window to fall inwards, the bottom kick plate would allow critters and air to get through. As for the handle, it is just Pot metal. Your questions are really answered if you took the time to go to Larson's website and everything is available through their customer service link.
> 
> Now of course, you can paint the Brass parts, but then it would look cheap and shoddy.


I also need to clarify. We want to substitute the gold trim for silver or brushed nickel.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Call Larson. I am sure they will sell you the new pieces in a brushed nickel finish option.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> Call Larson. I am sure they will sell you the new pieces in a brushed nickel finish option.


Otherwise stay with brass? We don't have brass currently. It sounds like the gold trim cannot be substituted which means I would have to get an entire new door.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

Also, I had to set the door to slam shut as its closing so it closes all the way. Otherwise it stays partially open instead of closing. What can I try?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Who installed it? Is the alignment proper or is the closer not zeroing out.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> Who installed it? Is the alignment proper or is the closer not zeroing out.


Its the closer.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

valpd said:


> So your saying stay away from brass? What other type of handle material would you recommend?


Never stated that. The parts you are talking about, are a "Brass" finish as described on Larson's website.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've yet to see one of those doors with that style latch close all the way on it's own.
I may if the inside door is still open but may not when the doors closed because of the pressure.
It's like trying to close a car door with the windows up, takes a little more ummp.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

joecaption said:


> I've yet to see one of those doors with that style latch close all the way on it's own.
> I may if the inside door is still open but may not when the doors closed because of the pressure.
> It's like trying to close a car door with the windows up, takes a little more ummp.


It it me a while to get my back door to close properly after putting in a new backdoor, and reinstalling the Larson Storm that we had. Still have a small gap at the top of mine, where I did not cut enough off the aluminum, but you can get them to close properly, by just taking your time, and doing the proper adjustments on the closer and latch.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> It it me a while to get my back door to close properly after putting in a new backdoor, and reinstalling the Larson Storm that we had. Still have a small gap at the top of mine, where I did not cut enough off the aluminum, but you can get them to close properly, by just taking your time, and doing the proper adjustments on the closer and latch.


I got it to close at a much faster rate, but the latch will not automatically close. Instead it slams into the frame. What can I spray into the latch because it seems like its just jammed at times.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If the latch is sticking, start with some graphite and see if it will loosen up.

If it doesn't, plan on pulling it apart and inspecting it.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> If the latch is sticking, start with some graphite and see if it will loosen up.
> 
> If it doesn't, plan on pulling it apart and inspecting it.


Fixed it. Now I have to fix the door from slamming shut. It shakes the entire door. I out the closer pin in the summer position, buy same thing happens.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Buy new pistons. After a while the felt in them dry out, and/or if the screw is missing or miss-adjusted, they can cause the slamming problem. You can also get different PSI closers, depending on the weight of the door.

Larson is pretty good about packaging the correct closer with their doors, but if someone came along later and did not maintain them, or changed them out with the wrong ones, you end up with problems.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> Buy new pistons. After a while the felt in them dry out, and/or if the screw is missing or miss-adjusted, they can cause the slamming problem. You can also get different PSI closers, depending on the weight of the door.
> 
> Larson is pretty good about packaging the correct closer with their doors, but if someone came along later and did not maintain them, or changed them out with the wrong ones, you end up with problems.


These are the originals.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Try using the adjustment screw on the closure -
Usually, Larson closures are OK.
We have gotten Bad ones, though!


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

My storm door makes a popping sound when it opens and closes. What should I check 1st?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

valpd said:


> My storm door makes a popping sound when it opens and closes. What should I check 1st?


The hinges, to see if they are binding against wood. Then the closers.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> The hinges, to see if they are binding against wood. Then the closers.


What do I check regarding g the closers? Last month I adjusted the door so it closes faster. This just started happening.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You know that you do not have to keep posting back about every little problem on this door. You just need to stand there, and listen for where it is happening, then think in your head a solution. The closers could cause it if they are binding, or the brackets for them were not put in the correct place.

The hinges could be hanging up on the wood framing that the metal frame for the storm door is against.

Again, just stand there and look and listen, then think through how to fix it. And again, you do not have to keep coming back for every little thing, but if it is major and you want an idea how to figure it out, yes come back for suggestions.

Our backdoor hinges were rubbing against the Brick molding on the new door when I rehung it, so out came the Multi-Tool with a flat cutting blade, to cut away some of the wood against the hinges, and fixed the rubbing/creaking problem that I had.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> You know that you do not have to keep posting back about every little problem on this door. You just need to stand there, and listen for where it is happening, then think in your head a solution. The closers could cause it if they are binding, or the brackets for them were not put in the correct place.
> 
> The hinges could be hanging up on the wood framing that the metal frame for the storm door is against.
> 
> ...


Thanks, but I have no clue about what your last statement meant. If anything just ignore this post if it bugs you so much.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The last part is telling you to look for the not so obvious reason why the door is making noise, and that is usually your culprit. Took me awhile to figure out that it was the hinges on the door rubbing against the wood framing, thinking at first it was the hinges.

Again, if it is popping or binding, Hinges misaligned door, piston hanging up, or brackets not installed properly or coming loose would be why. So yes stand there when it is quite, clear your mind, then slowly open and close the door, listening for where the sound is coming from.

When you can figure out where the sound is coming from, then decide if some minor adjustments need to be done, such as remove the piston and see if it stops, or possibly pull the door completely off the door frame, and move the hinge plate to see if it is still making noise.

Look for any rub marks on the other two aluminum frames, which means the door may be hitting and causing the problem. Look on the outside around the frame. There should be at least a 1/8" to 1/4" gap at max around the perimeter on the top and latch side. Hinge side is set by the hinge frame, when attached properly at the door.

If all else fails, then possibly your door is warped, and need to contact Larson if it is within the warranty period and send them the info they request on their site to see if it qualifies for factory replacement of a new unit.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> The last part is telling you to look for the not so obvious reason why the door is making noise, and that is usually your culprit. Took me awhile to figure out that it was the hinges on the door rubbing against the wood framing, thinking at first it was the hinges.
> 
> Again, if it is popping or binding, Hinges misaligned door, piston hanging up, or brackets not installed properly or coming loose would be why. So yes stand there when it is quite, clear your mind, then slowly open and close the door, listening for where the sound is coming from.
> 
> ...


Sound is coming from the bottom left .


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

valpd said:


> Sound is coming from the bottom left .


I'm assuming you mean the bottom left looking out from the house. Remove one side of the piston so it's not connected to the storm door. Open and close the door. If the sound stops, then it's the piston. If it doesn't then look at the hinges for binding. 

Since you recently adjusted the pistons, it's likely the culprit.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

djlandkpl said:


> I'm assuming you mean the bottom left looking out from the house. Remove one side of the piston so it's not connected to the storm door. Open and close the door. If the sound stops, then it's the piston. If it doesn't then look at the hinges for binding.
> 
> Since you recently adjusted the pistons, it's likely the culprit.


Could it be because of the heat?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Yes, due to if there is direct sun on that side of the house towards afternoon. My backdoor expands, but like I said, I fixed the hinge problem, by using a multi-tool to cut away a bit of wood, where the hinges were rubbing.

If the door has expanded, that it is catching the frame, you are going to have to undo the screws for the latch side of the frame and move it over a bit, if that is where it is catch. Same goes for the top, if it is catching there.

Like I said before, you can tell if it is catching, because there will be bare metal or rub marks, from it doing it over time.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

valpd said:


> Could it be because of the heat?


Could be. Try operating the door first thing in the morning after it has had a chance to cool down. You need to determine the source of the noise first.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> Yes, due to if there is direct sun on that side of the house towards afternoon. My backdoor expands, but like I said, I fixed the hinge problem, by using a multi-tool to cut away a bit of wood, where the hinges were rubbing.
> 
> If the door has expanded, that it is catching the frame, you are going to have to undo the screws for the latch side of the frame and move it over a bit, if that is where it is catch. Same goes for the top, if it is catching there.
> 
> Like I said before, you can tell if it is catching, because there will be bare metal or rub marks, from it doing it over time.


I honestly can't tell where the pop is even coming from. I can feel it on my hand while the door closes.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You are going to have to listen for it, from the outside or inside, and then listen for it. If it is just you feeling it, you should be able to figure out where it is coming from then.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

It isn't Rocket Science. 

The Baby is Screaming...Which way do I go?


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

kwikfishron said:


> It isn't Rocket Science.
> 
> The Baby is Screaming...Which way do I go?


I know that , but it isn't easy in this case. Trust me.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

It looks like it's more apparent towards the right side where the handle is I just can't tell what make would such a loud popping sound there?


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## creeper (Mar 11, 2011)

My old storm door used to slam shut. I bought a new closer. 30 bucks..problem solved. 

On my new Larson door, after about 6 months a loud pop began just as you describe. 

The installation screws they provided were not long enough. I replaced them with 2.5 inch and problem solved

Try the longer screws first and then get a new closer. If it doesn't fix the problem you can take the closer back to the store.


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## valpd (Mar 29, 2013)

creeper said:


> My old storm door used to slam shut. I bought a new closer. 30 bucks..problem solved.
> 
> On my new Larson door, after about 6 months a loud pop began just as you describe.
> 
> ...


Install screws all over?


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## creeper (Mar 11, 2011)

My door has two closers..I just replaced the screws in the bottom one


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