# Hyundai Accent = Valve Cover Gasket



## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

First: 75% of the posts here start of with . . . " I know nothing about cars ".
well, add me to that list !!!!!! (disclaimer: I am NOT a mechanic by any means).
my wife's 2007 Accent had the code of #1 cylinder misfire: put it in the shop.
$192.00 to change out the coil. (yeah, I was shocked) then, he went into the
high pressure sales pitch to sell me 4 spark plugs (installed) for almost $200.00.
needless to say, I can change spark plugs. (so, I did that myself for $35.00).
now, the #2 cylinder misfire code came on. I got the coil from the Auto Store and
changed it out myself for $60.00.
okay - here's the rub . . . . upon removing the #2 coil, it had a few ounces of OIL
in the hole. vacumed it out and changed the coil. ( vacked the oil twice so far).
upon looking for a gasket online, most listings have the Valve Cover itself included.
now I am thinking: on these cheap imports, do you normally change the valve cover 
(which appears to be PLASTIC) when the gasket starts to leak ?? 
this is my project for either today or tomorrow - depending on the parts local availability.
just wondering here . . . . 
actual real life experience with this issue would ne nice to hear.
TIA - John










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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

No, the valve cover isn't typically changed. Just do the gasket. On some cars the OEM gasket is best, others it doesn't matter so much.


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## neil86 (Oct 13, 2018)

I'm sure you're wanting to get this done either today or tomorrow, but I get 99% of my parts from RockAuto. I tend to stick with Fel-Pro or Victor Reinz as far as gaskets. They have the gasket and spark plug tube seals as a set for under $20.

Local auto stores are always way overpriced.






2007 HYUNDAI ACCENT 1.6L L4 Valve Cover Gasket | RockAuto


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www.rockauto.com





Also, here's a discount code I use from another forum.

5% Discount Code: 3AC0F142EEF49C (enter this code in the 'How Did You Hear About Us’ box)

Thought I'd share, just in case you're interested.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If the Hyundai is like the Nissan, you will have to replace the entire valve cover, as the spark plug seals aren't replaceable, unless they have changed. When you take the valve cover off you can see if they plug seals are replaceable or not. If they are you really lucked out.

The seals on my Pathfinder are not replaceable but can be bought, so I machined the valve cover so I could replace the seals, so far good. The covers for the Pathfinder are $200 each and it has two.

When you put the valve cover back on, be sure to check the torque sequence and do not over torque the bolts or the valve cover will leak.

Don't keep driving that car with the plug fouled out or you will be replacing the catalytic converters as that raw gas will ruin them. I have been there and done that.

I got my thinking messed up, I was thinking the Hyundai and Nissan were basically the same car but that is the Hyundai and Kia. You may be in luck buddy.

EDIT... If you do have to replace the valve cover, don't buy the cheap ones, they are garbage and will probably not fit well to start with, but they will leak and some crack.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

John, when that mechanic changed out your coil, surely he saw the oil on the coil, he couldn't have kept from it. Also him wanting to change out your plugs when he knew the oil would foul them out was really dishonest. Hopefully your misfire won't ruin your new plugs. Be sure when changing out your plugs, get all that oil out of that pit before removing the plug or all that oil is going right down into the cylinder.


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## LawrenceS (Oct 21, 2020)

BigJim said:


> John, when that mechanic changed out your coil, surely he saw the oil on the coil, he couldn't have kept from it. Also him wanting to change out your plugs when he knew the oil would foul them out was really dishonest. Hopefully your misfire won't ruin your new plugs. Be sure when changing out your plugs, get all that oil out of that pit before removing the plug or all that oil is going right down into the cylinder.


Maybe not, the mechanic did cylinder 1 not 2 and then the OP did his own plugs he never mentioned oil on cylinder 1. When certain vehicles have common failure's diagnosis can be as simple as remove suspect problem coil find coil has carbon tracing, suggest replacement coil. It looks like this vehicle might have copper plugs as OE which are like 30k change intervals. So suggesting plug replacement may have been a mileage thing. So good chance the mechanic never knew cylinder 2 had an issue. Also he doesn't have to get all the oil out of the tube before pulling the plug, if he has a compressor blow it out, pull the plug and honestly use non chlorinated brake cleaner and wash the rest down into the cylinder and it will burn off without a problem. Vehicles will burn more oil then that over normally through the PCV system.

To the OP Rock Auto is your friend. When it comes to electrical components OE or OE suppliers are very important, most asian vehicles everything is supplied by NGK or Denso and rock auto will often have who the OE supplier is. You have no idea the issues I've seen from valuebrand parts store stuff, especially ignition coils causing crazy weird problems due to electromagnetic interference.

If you want piece of mind I'd probably grab 2 of the OE supplier coils and replace whatever brand ones were installed unless they are the OE supplier brands.

Ignition Coils - it looks like there may be 2 OE suppliers Mando and Denso, I'd go with the Denso's.

Spark Plugs - it looks like NGK Coppers are the OE suppliers, if you pull a plug it should have it written right on it and you can compare to rock auto. Though i'd suspect this vehicle has probably already had the plugs replaced at somepoint with who knows what. Not sure how finnicky Hyundai's are with plugs, but if you want to upgrade to longer life plugs, I'd go NGK iridium.

Valve Cover gasket OE or as previously suggested the Victor Reinz kit also includes the cam plugs which the fel pro doesn't. One thing to look for it at the 2 short ends of the valve cover there are humps for the camshafts, in the Honda world anytime there is an angle in a rubber valve cover gasket they use a pea size dab of RTV silicone to seal, not sure if Hyundai does the same thing but it if you think about it, it makes sense it's a easy failure point as it's harder to seal an angle or the rubber can slightly deform. Once you pull the valve cover off you you an just look for old silicone stuck to the head to see if Hyundai also does that, if they do just scrape it off and put dabs where it was before reinstalling the valve cover. I'd probably just pick a tube up from your local Hyundai dealer, all the permatex or whatever brand stuff just isn't the same. Plug the hyundai gray looks like it comes with a tube key also which is a life saver.

Non chlorinated brake cleaner is your friend for cleaning off oil residue, even better if you have a compressor and an air gun to blow it dry after. If you clean the exterior off before pulling the valve cover, some will get on the exhaust, you won't get it perfect, don't try to. It will burn off, it will smell, but it doesn't last long.

As for cleaning any corrosion/dirt/sludge on the aluminum head 3m scotch brite hand pads are your friend. I'm not sure the grit we use at work, it's either 7448 or 7446(they are both gray), it's probably 7446 which is more aggressive. They come in 6x9 pads, i'll typically cut 1"-1.5" off the long side and cut it in half for 1x3 strips which you can easily work with 1-2 fingers into tight spots. Also if there is build up on the spark plug tubes where the seal sits, scotch brite those too. After scotch bright always use a clean rag with some brake clean to wipe everything clean.

Pulling tube seals can kind of be a pain in the ass, I'd suggest picking up a Lisle 56650 adjustable seal puller. As for install, as a tech I just have an assortment of half inch sockets I can roughly match the outer diameter of the tube seal up with, not sure what you will have available. Also a smaller rubber dead blow works well sometimes just for finishing touches making sure it's sitting flush. Also when going to reinstall the valve cover, I typically use a thin silicone spray(might be dry film not 100% off the top of my head) on them right before sliding the valve cover on. I''ve seen countless people end up pinching the seals trying to get them to slide over the tube, a drop of motor oil rubbed on them would probably work too.


I think that about covers everything I can think of.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

okay guys - done done and done !!
the valve cover is really heavy duty plastic (phenolic of some kind).
the gasket and 4 seals come as a kit from AutoZone and were in stock.
all in all, it was not that big of a deal. just time consuming due to frequent breaks
to re-align the backbone.
when I changed all 4 spark plugs 6 months ago, there was no sign of oil in any of the tubes.
so the part that leaked oil into the tubes just started after that.
removing the coils, there was 3 oz of oil in #1 & #2 and maybe 1/2 oz in #3 (#4 was dry)..
poured in mineral spirits, stirred it around with a skinny stick, vacuumed it out - twice.
sprayed in carb cleaner, vacuumed it out, clean and dry plugs.
sprayed out the spark plug socket - clean and dry.
buttoned it all up - drove it for a few miles - there is a detectable improvement in the running motor.
will power wash the motor next week when the wife has a day off. (plus check the breaks).
then get it ready to upgrade her daily driver to something newer than a 2007.
(( she wants a two door Jeep Wrangler - good luck with _THAT_ )).

THANKS to all !! (this case is now closed).
John

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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

BigJim said:


> When you put the valve cover back on, be sure to check the torque sequence and do not over torque the bolts or the valve cover will leak.


Or worse—you could shear a bolt in the head (which would of course, also cause a leak)!


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

I get part numbers on Rockauto‘s site then put them in the Amazon search box. Most parts are available from Amazon. I have three issues with Rock:
1. If I order several small parts and they come from separate warehouses, shipping charges are crazy high and when I get all the stuff is anyone’s guess.
2. If a part comes broken, Rock has to approve a return and get the part before they ship out a replacement part. It can be weeks of waiting.
3. If a part doesn’t fit but their catalog says it will, tough. I have to pay shipping back and they will never change the catalog. I see a refund in a week or two, but I eat the shipping both ways.
Amazon has one or two day delivery. If a part arrives broken, I email them and they get another part to me in one or two days, and I have a month to return the broken part at their expense. If the Amazon part doesn’t fit, they pay shipping back and I get a refund 5 minutes after I drop it off at UPS.
‘I looked up a FelPro gasket for your application and it is one cent more on Amazon than Rock after I got the Rock shipping price. Often it is exactly the same.


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