# Heating Oil Pipe Removal



## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi everyone, 

I was wondering if you might be able to give me some suggestions on removing cast iron pipes (fill and vent) from a oil tank (home heating oil) that's in my basement.
We're doing an small extension to our house, but the pipes are in the way of the new framing, and have to be relocated.

Now they are through the cement foundation, and I'm unable to "wrench" them.
I would use a sawzall, but I'm leery with the oil in them. 
I don't have a pipe cutter, and not sure if I'd have enough room to get one in there anyway.

There's a 90 degree elbow in both of them. They look like 2" and 4" pipe.
Would hitting the elbow work (to crack just the elbow)?
If it would, does doing that ruin the pipe that the elbow screws onto?

Thanks for any suggestions.


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## Mike Swearingen (Mar 15, 2005)

Cast iron is for drains.
Those pipes into your fuel oil tank have to be galvanized steel.
You need to get a larger pipe wrench. You can hammer on the fittings at the threaded area to try to break them. You also can try to "tighten" them, and then turn them back counter-clockwise to remove them. And you can also try to "soak" them in lubricant or solvent (aka WD-40).
Good Luck!
Mike


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi Mike, 
Thanks for the reply. I'll try what you say. 

You're probably correct about the pipes not being cast iron. I thought they are cast iron because they're black in color.
I thought galvanized were gray. Opps.... I learned something. Thanks 

The largest pipe wrench I have is 18". I'll see if I can add some "leverage".
There's this black looking thread sealer all on the threads, and it (the sealer) is hard as a rock.
I'm thinking of using some acid on it instead of WD-40 ..... :laughing: (just kidding).

Thanks again, 
Big Bill


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

Big Bill. If the pipe is black iron or galvanized steel, the fittings are probably steel or mallable iron. In either case, they won't break by hitting them. A sawzall (if you can fit it in the space) is the best bet and I have never seen the blade get hot enough to ignite oil. You could also spray the blade with water as you cut if it worries you. I hope the black pipe dope isn't the type I have seen used in factories I have worked in. I don't recall the name, but, I have never seen anything hold so well. We used 2 48" pipe wrenches with 10 foot pipes on the wrenches and still could not break a 2" joint loose. Good luck.


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi majakdragon,

Wow....


majakdragon said:


> We used 2 48" pipe wrenches with 10 foot pipes on the wrenches and still could not break a 2" joint loose.


It appears to be the same black pipe dope that you mentioned, because it's not moving.
As I said, the pipes are encased in cement, so I don't have to hold back on them, and all the leverage I can fit in there won't move them.
I'm off to the tool rental in a bit, to see if a pipe cutter might fit.

You may be correct about the sawzall being ok to use, but I'm going to try all other options first. I just don't feel comfortable using it on a tank that has oil in it.


It's obvious to me now that some cutting or breaking of the pipes are inevitable.
What would I need to do next, assuming I get the pipes cut?

Do the existing pipes need to be threaded, or is there some type of union (compession, solderless type) that can be installed?

Thanks for the help.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Big Bill said:


> Do the existing pipes need to be threaded, or is there some type of union (compession, solderless type) that can be installed?
> 
> Thanks for the help.


Are you planning on reusing this?


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi Ron, 

No, well ..... I have to install a new vent and fill.
Whatever I cut out, won't be reused.

(I'll try to get/post some pictures if it helps) 

Thanks for any help.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

A 4 wheel pipe cutter would work the best. Just make sure you get the cut started straight. With this type cutter, you only need to turn it a little over a quarter turn back and forth to cut the pipe. Make sure you get the cut started straight. 4 wheel cutters do not have a roller to help keep the cutter wheels going straight and it is easy to make a crooked cut. Just go slow when starting the cut to make sure the wheels go into the previous wheels cut mark. I don't know of any type coupling except threaded that would work for oil. Just cut new threads and use a good pipe dope compound, such as Rector Seal No.5.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Sometimes hiiting the outside of the joint your working on with a heavy hammer on all sides can cause the fitting to free up enough to get it removed with a pipe wrench.


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi all, 

Thanks for the continuing help.
This is a picture of the fill pipe into the start of the new extension:
(The red arrow is the new floor level).









This is what the tank looks like:









And this is a close up of the pipes:










I have them soaking now, and will try later to hit them.

The 4 wheel cutter sounds good, but I won't have room to turn it on the pipe, with the existing sub floor above them.

Thanks again for all the help, 


Big Bill


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

I added light to your picture hope that was ok by you?

The arrow that you show, is this the spot your trying to take apart. if so you you taking the riser off or the 90 and the riser?


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Use a 36" pipe wrench and two people pulling on it, it will come off of there.


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi Ron, 

Thanks for lighting up the pic.... :thumbsup: 

The arrow is where the new floor joists are going to be installed. The vent pipe is higher than the sub floor, so that's why it has to be removed.
I'd like to get the 90 off, but anything I can remove below the sub floor will be ok.
We have about 7/8 oil level in the tank, so the other pipes (that will need to be removed) can stay for now.
I was just trying to get it relocated in one shot.
But I need to remove the pipes in the way of the new construction by Monday.

Does the closeup pics help in anyway to see what kind of dope is on the threads?
Is there any "chemical" I can use to "dissolve" that dope?

Thanks, 
BB


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Here is lighting for other pictures.

So one pipe is for fill and the other is for vent, and your wanting to relocate these as well?


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Yes, one is vent and one is fill, and both have to be relocated.


Some success.... :thumbup: 

I was able to remove the 90 and the fill fitting on the outside, there was no dope on those threads.... 









I should have tried those pipes first. 
So the "rush" to get it done is over.... for now.
Thanks.. 

It still leaves me with the concern of removing the rest of the  pipes, so I'll keep soaking and hitting them.

Any suggestions, please feel free to post.

Thanks again!!!


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Like I always say, if it went together, they will come apart,.

The reason you seen no pipe dope is the threading of them together pushes the dope out of the threads, so when they come apart they look clean, trust me they used pipe dope to put them together, not only is pipe dope a sealant, it acts as a lube to make the threads slick, this allowing you to run them tight.

Glad you got the 1st part done, do the reat the same way.


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi Ron and all,

Thanks. 

It's clear that I don't know much about steel pipe.
Using this pic for reference.....







http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Autodad/closeupcopy.jpg

Do the pipes need to come off in the order that they were installed?
In other words, I'm trying to remove #3.
Can I be tightening one end while trying to loosen the other?
Pipe #1 is in cement, so that's why I'm trying to remove the union (#2) or the little pipe (#3).

Is that the wrong way to do it?
Does turning the union counterclockwise loosen both ends?
Hope I'm explaining clearly enough.

Thanks.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Added lighting to your picture

It comes apart in the order it went together.

#2 looks to be a coupling not a union, everything is righty tighty, lefty loosy.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

You need to cut somewhere. None of the piping will unscrew until you do. (unless there is an actual Union in the line somewhere to disconnect) If the picture is your ACTUAL piping, you don't even have room for a pipe cutter.


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi, 

Yes, that is the actual piping.

So it either has to be cut, or removed in the reverse of how it went together..
That's probably why I can't remove it.

I guess I'll have to break the pipe out of the cement first, then try to remove it??
Cutting it doesn't seem to be an option.


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Keep us updated on how it's going


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Will do!

Thanks so much for the help. I learned a lot by coming here.
Keep up the great work! :thumbup: 


Big Bill


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

Hi Ron... and all, 




Ron The Plumber said:


> Keep us updated on how it's going


Got it!:clap:


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

I had to break the cement around the pipes, then a little muscle, and the outside pipe turned, and so on.....

Thanks for all the help, 

Big Bill


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## Ron The Plumber (Jun 7, 2006)

Thats great, good job 

arty:


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Big Bill said:


> Hi Ron... and all,
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Great job :thumbup: 

What is next?

The addition?


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## Big Bill (Sep 15, 2006)

redline said:


> Great job :thumbup:
> 
> What is next?
> 
> The addition?


Hi redline, 

Yes, they should start framing in about 12 hrs.

I'll have to run a new fill and vent to a different location. Not a big deal now (I hope).
I'll measure how long the run will be, then see if the plumbing shop (or Home Depot) can set me up with threaded pipe.


I started this project more out of necessity, then trying to save some money. It had to be moved now!
Well, the contractor didn't want to touch it (wasn't in the contract to do).
So I called my oil company, and they didn't want to do it till the construction was done. (believe that??) :confused1: 

I was between a "_pipe _and a hard place" ... LOL

I figured how much could it cost to do??
The oil company said if they did do the job, it would cost $125.00 an hr., but couldn't tell me how many hours.
They estimated about 3-4 hrs, and $150.00 in materials.
So I'm saving at least $500.00 - $600.00 by doing it myself.

Thanks again, to all here who helped.
:thumbup: :notworthy:

Big Bill


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