# Leak due to broken sheathing. Repair advice?



## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Is your ridge cap completely missing as it appears in photo 3? You will have to replace that.

1. Remove the shingles from the ridge back to 6 to 8 inches below the long seam in the plywood. Do this in the early morning when the sealing stip can be broken with a wonderbar, or drywall knife.

2. Cut out or remove the bad plywood. You are going to have to remove enough plywood so that your repair sits on three supports minimum, Basically 4 feet at least.

3. Install 2 x 4 blocking at both the lower joint, and at the top of the short piece of plywood. You can install the blocking "on the flat" and pre-attach simpson angle cleats to the blocking with drywall screws, then attach the verticle angle to the side of the top chord of the truss. this will make installing the blocking much easier than nailing, IMO. (Frankly, I would do this all along both sides, considering the thickness of your deck, as there is very little support there, and nothing to hold the fasteners from the ridge vent)

4. Nail decking to new blocking. 1-1/2 inch HD roofing nails are OK. 

5. Replace felt with ASTM D226 Felt bibing down over shingles below to 1/2 inch above keys, and under shingles to the right and left 4 inches minimum. (You can also use ice dams here) 

6. Re-install or Replace shingles, based on condition.

7. Install ridge cap.

_*Note: Your deck appears to be very thin, are there any stamps on the back of it that tells you the thickness? If not measure and post. The minimum deck that I specify for 24 inch on center support is 19/32 inch Fir. I know less is allowed, but codes are minimal, and min 15/32 inch is required by all shingle manufacturers for warranty.*_

Good Luck.

PS. I like the rising suns on the deck, but it sure as heck is not code over in my neck of the woods. If you have young kids you may want to put some vinyl coated 2 x 4 wire mesh or trellis on the inside of that.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

I'm sorry. Photo 3 (sawdust) is the pile in my attic floor directly below photo 4.

Thanks for taking the time to post that. I will look in my attic after work today and post up the stamps/thickness.

I always wondered when replacing the felt paper, what I was supposed to do with the sides. I have a couple spots on my garage I need to fix as well.

I have a ridge vent, so that will need to come up first, yes? Do I have to worry about the 'old holes' leaking from the nails/screws, or am I supposed to seal those, or re-use the exact same hole when re-attaching?

There are many angle cleats I found on Home Depot's site, would you mind linking specifically which ones I should be using? I imagine something ~3.5" x 2" x 2".

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All

I read elsewhere here to use 8d galv nails (2 1/2") for the sheathing, was that perhaps just local to someone else?

Thanks again.
- Dave


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

jagans said:


> PS. I like the rising suns on the deck, but it sure as heck is not code over in my neck of the woods. If you have young kids you may want to put some vinyl coated 2 x 4 wire mesh or trellis on the inside of that.


Thanks, it's funny that you mention that. They are pretty popular around here I've noticed. I had the same thought as you when my wife was pregnant. :thumbsup: Still need to color match everything.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Dave88LX said:


> I'm sorry. Photo 3 (sawdust) is the pile in my attic floor directly below photo 4.
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to post that. I will look in my attic after work today and post up the stamps/thickness.
> 
> ...


The A-233z looks fine to me. Frankly I would just buy a box of 1-1/2 inch coated multipurpose scews and screw everything. You can put the blocking with the 3.5" dimension perpendicular to the deck or parallel. On the flat would be easier. 8d nails are 2.5 inches long, and if you nail the sheathing to the blocking in this configuration, the nails will protrude. Screwing will be better all the way around.

_*Dont even think about it guys. *_


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

I have plenty of leftover coated screws from when I built my fence, so at least I have those. Makes sense now about the 8d nails. 

Any ideas about that black wood with the sawdust under it?


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Dave88LX said:


> I have plenty of leftover coated screws from when I built my fence, so at least I have those. Makes sense now about the 8d nails.
> 
> Any ideas about that black wood with the sawdust under it?


Probably swarf from when they re-roofed your house. I assume you are going to get rid of all the dry rot?

I have to tell you that your roof deck looks really thin to me. The reason that I would block it all is so you do not have deflection between rafters, which would allow wind blown rain to get under your ridge cap. Wear a hard hat in that attic. Roofing nails hurt your brain, that's why I nixed the 8d's :thumbsup:

_*Holy Crap! You fixed the deck since my last post ????? *_ :jester:


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Is your soffit vented? Also, what is the slope of your roof?


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Top of the truss on the right looks rotted away. If it is mush you may want to sister a 2x4 to that while you are up there. 

Can you get a pic of the ridgecap. From here it looks like it could be that aluminum garbage.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

jagans said:


> Is your soffit vented? Also, what is the slope of your roof?


It is vented, picture is attached. I will note that all the vent nails have some sort of coating applied over them, but they appear to either be pulling up or the vent lifting off.

I got up there and measured, my sheathing is 1/2" plywood, but there are no markings at all.

The slope I'd guess to be 4/12; I'd need to get up there with a level & tape. Easy to walk on. You can get an idea from this very old horribly landscaped picture from when we moved in.










The damage was obvious from the outside. That gap in the middle is the broken sheathing/leak. What is right/wrong with the vent/ends? Everything else look good? Do I need to change anything?























Vent:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

That isn't 4:12.

3:12 if you are lucky by my eye. 

Throw some more screws in the ridge vent and seal the heads with Vulkem or Geocel.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

It was just a guess, I really don't know. I know it's very walking-friendly. What would that determine?


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Pitch is fine. That is a 235 hud home I'd say mid 70's. 

I thought that was that aluminum crap. That stuff is horrible. If it's in your budget I'd spring for some airvent II and replace that thing. It's a waste of money trying to reseal it. Well re-seal would not be the proper term since it was never sealed originally. Use the time and material you will spend trying to make that nice and put a real ridge vent on that will actually work and actually keep the weather out.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

OldNBroken said:


> Pitch is fine. That is a 235 hud home I'd say mid 70's.
> 
> I thought that was that aluminum crap. That stuff is horrible. If it's in your budget I'd spring for some airvent II and replace that thing. It's a waste of money trying to reseal it. Well re-seal would not be the proper term since it was never sealed originally. Use the time and material you will spend trying to make that nice and put a real ridge vent on that will actually work and actually keep the weather out.



Yup Airvent II and run it out to the end, but end the cut about a foot in. Like this:


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

jagans said:


> Yup Airvent II and run it out to the end, but end the cut about a foot in. Like this:


I hate the look when people cheap out and end it at the wall


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

Your roof has about 5 years left in it. The good news is. Simple roof or a reroof. You have some serious routing plywood in the one section. Its been leaking for a while. Follow jagan and old n broken advice. Start saving for a new roof. Your looking about about 7k. Your roof looks to be around 16 square give or take. 250 a square few add ons. You get the pic on price.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

OldNBroken said:


> Pitch is fine. That is a 235 hud home I'd say mid 70's.


Yessir, 1979. What is a "235 HUD" home?




OldNBroken said:


> I thought that was that aluminum crap. That stuff is horrible. If it's in your budget I'd spring for some airvent II and replace that thing. It's a waste of money trying to reseal it. Well re-seal would not be the proper term since it was never sealed originally. Use the time and material you will spend trying to make that nice and put a real ridge vent on that will actually work and actually keep the weather out.


My ridge is 38' long, about how much money in materials are we talking?



jagans said:


> Yup Airvent II and run it out to the end, but end the cut about a foot in. Like this:


If I'm following, the actual gap in the roof will end ~1' in from the ends, but the Airvent II runs all the way to the end?



OldNBroken said:


> I hate the look when people cheap out and end it at the wall


Not sure what that means...



747 said:


> Your roof has about 5 years left in it. The good news is. Simple roof or a reroof. You have some serious routing plywood in the one section. Its been leaking for a while. Follow jagan and old n broken advice. Start saving for a new roof. Your looking about about 7k. Your roof looks to be around 16 square give or take. 250 a square few add ons. You get the pic on price.


Is that $7K materials, or $7K material & labor?

The roof isn't as bad as those two pictures lead it on to believe, I can see why it'd appear that way. There are only the two isolated spots near the ridge. The rest of it is fine (from underneath).

I'm putting the house up for rent here in a couple months. I hope I can get a decent amount of time out of the roof.




















Everything else looks fine like this:


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Which one am I looking at here?


http://www.lowes.com/Search=shingle...Id=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=shingle+vent#!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Wrong vent for that style roof.
The right vent would have no exposted nails.
http://roofing.owenscorning.com/homeowner/accessories/ventilation/ventsureridgevents.aspx


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Your follow up pictures are good. Your leaks originated at the deficient ridge cap. I think If you do what we recommended you will be fine. Your current ridge cap is grabage as ONB stated. Your shingles are basic three tabs. I think you can probably get a good 8-10 years out of those shingles, even though they were not installed very well re adjusting the exposure at the ridge. Black Mold on shingles in MD is pretty common


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

So the Air Vent ShingleVent II is wrong for my roof type?

The Owens Corning has three different styles:

VentSure® 4-Foot Strip Heat & Moisture Ridge Vents with Weather PROtector® Moisture Barrier
VentSure® 4-Foot Strip Heat & Moisture Ridge Vents
VentSure® Rigid Roll Ridge Vents with Weather PROtector® Moisture Barrier


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Dave88LX said:


> So the Air Vent ShingleVent II is wrong for my roof type?
> 
> The Owens Corning has three different styles:
> 
> ...


Shingle Vent II is fine for your roof.

It is one of the better ridge vents out there.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Dave88LX said:


> So the Air Vent ShingleVent II is wrong for my roof type?
> 
> The Owens Corning has three different styles:
> 
> ...


ShingleVent II is what I would put on it. Vent plus new ridgecap you are looking at about $5/ft plus a few hours of work. Since you are already going to have it opened up you are half way there labor-wise.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Ventsure did not fair well in tests, pp.8; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...-4GYAg&usg=AFQjCNHgZb3dVUKHndOF5X2VkfoWu6CAwQ

Use 8d (2-1/2") nails, not screws to satisfy your H.O.Insurance carrier, if ever a claim; *#30---* http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_sec002_par005.htm

Yours is lacking the inner filter; "What is the purpose of the filter in the ridge vent?
Air Vent's internal weather filter is designed to be a secondary layer of defense against weather, dust and insect infiltration in the attic." From; http://www.airvent.com/professional/resources/troubleshooting.shtml

Gary


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Got it. Why did joecaption say AirVent II was wrong?

Which one specifically will I need to get at Lowe's?

http://www.lowes.com/Search=shingle...Id=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=shingle+vent#

Gary -- Thank you for the regs! Always interesting to read your posts.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Dave88LX said:


> Got it. Why did joecaption say AirVent II was wrong?
> 
> Which one specifically will I need to get at Lowe's?




I don't know if the big-box stores carry shinglevent.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Need to wait and ask Joe on that... 

Gary


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Awww c'mon Gary. sheesh


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

OldNBroken said:


> I don't know if the big-box stores carry shinglevent.


Their site says they do:

Lowe's
Ace
True Value
84 Lumber

I'll need to pop in and see.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

OldNBroken said:


> Awww c'mon Gary. sheesh


I don't have ESP, you can answer for him if you know his reasoning.... maybe looking at the link Joe thought it was something different than we are showing, I don't know... Gary


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Haven't had a chance to get up there and repair this yet. Finishing up pressure-washing my house. Mom's going to be in town for the weekend. Blah blah, it never ends.:no:


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Dave88LX said:


> Haven't had a chance to get up there and repair this yet. Finishing up pressure-washing my house. Mom's going to be in town for the weekend. Blah blah, it never ends.:no:


Thank God you *Have *a mom to *be *in town. I would give anything to hug mine again, even if we were standing in a monsoon.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Oh my, no, I'm sorry, I didn't mean for it to sound like that. I appreciate every day I have with her! She lives up in MA, and I live in MD. Always great for me and my kids when she is in town. Her coming is why I won't get much done with the house...the house can wait. :thumbsup:


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