# Attic storage space insulating/air conditioning



## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Check local codes to determine what is required for the work you want to do. Once you condition it there may be issues such as someone in the future actually using it as living space. Your building inspectors office is the place to start.

Bud


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## checkmate (Feb 1, 2017)

You make a good point, but in this case that's not going to be a concern. Where this space is located it will never be used as living space, there's really no way to put in a proper set of stairs.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

I agree the space would make for poor accommodations, but I have seen ladders used to access bedrooms in attics. It isn't what you say it is going to be used for, it is what the code official determines is needed for approval. 

If they respond in writing that no permits are required, you are perfect. If they say permits, plans, and inspections are needed the last thing you want to do is build it without following their requirements.

Bud


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

checkmate said:


> You make a good point, but in this case that's not going to be a concern. Where this space is located it will never be used as living space, there's really no way to put in a proper set of stairs.


Could you possibly add a doorway from the second floor of the house to get into that attic area? 


checkmate said:


> I just bought a house which has a large open storage 'room' in the attic above the garage. This area is floored with plywood, and is approximately 25 ft. x 15 ft. Being in the south this attic area will get quite hot in the summer, so I'm toying with the idea of insulating this area and running a single HVAC duct to it to help moderate the temperature.
> 
> I'd just turn it into an office or spare bedroom, except that the only way up is on folding stairs through the scuttle hole (with no easy way of installing real stairs).
> 
> I'm looking for good options for insulating this area. Suggestions?





Bud9051 said:


> Check local codes to determine what is required for the work you want to do. Once you condition it there may be issues such as someone in the future actually using it as living space. Your building inspectors office is the place to start.
> 
> Bud



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## Bret86844 (Mar 16, 2016)

If you want something quick and dirty, just buy a portable AC unit, the kind with the exhaust hose. I think being a non-permanent piece of equipment saves you a lot of trouble.


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

I think opening this space to your house HVAC would be a can of worms because now you have a potential way for exhaust gases from cars to get into the house.


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## checkmate (Feb 1, 2017)

> Could you possibly add a doorway from the second floor of the house to get into that attic area?


It's a ranch, no second floor. 



> I think opening this space to your house HVAC would be a can of worms because now you have a potential way for exhaust gases from cars to get into the house.


I've seen plenty of houses which utilize space above the garage, most of the ones I've seen were built that way (and of course passed inspection). Plus, I already have smoke/CO detectors in the house.

I'm starting to think that I'll just insulate it with batt insulation and 2 ft. x 8 ft. pieces of drywall (it will be extremely difficult if not impossible to get full sheets of drywall up there). I was hoping that there may have been a cost effective, lightweight sheet insulation available.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

checkmate said:


> It's a ranch, no second floor.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


For insulation there is the pink Foamular (spelling?) boards in various thicknesses in 2'x8' sheets available at the big box stores. It has a higher Rvalue than fiberglass (per inch), but it is more expensive. I am not sure if it is required to be covered with drywall or not.

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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I wouldn't be concerned with codes. Let the future owners be concerned with codes because you're not making it into a living space because of a lack of egress requirements, even if it had regulation stairs.

But I would weigh all the options of an individual cooling unit.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

-----------Welcome to the forums!----------

...Yes, I've seen old houses for sale that have been flipped with fixed glass, higher than code window egress and still sell it as a bedroom- shame on you, realtor. Buyer beware is right... the houses you see around there probably have 5/8" Type X drywall on the ceiling of garage- required per Fire Department of your county/city when living space is above. 

... Along with proper sized floor joists - stronger for a living space than just carrying drywall. Possibly good enough for light storage, what size and spacing are they, what is the span? 

.... Add in a room smoke detector, ventilation/window glazing size per square foot of room ratio, not to mention all important stairs, all of which would need to be added to satisfy your HO Insurance carrier or they could deny a future claim, especially if attached to house. Something to think about, along with your families safety who depend on you to make wise choices. Add some radiant barrier and be done. The attic hatch requires weatherstripping and drywall, with no exposed wood trim holding it up, older ones don't always meet that. Firemen wouldn't even think to look there, if no stairs per code.... in a fire and a loved one is sleeping or overcome by smoke.

Gary


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## Chokingdogs (Oct 27, 2012)

SeniorSitizen said:


> *I wouldn't be concerned with codes. Let the future owners be concerned with codes* because you're not making it into a living space because of a lack of egress requirements, even if it had regulation stairs.
> 
> But I would weigh all the options of an individual cooling unit.


not so fast. when selling a house you need to be concerned with codes. should anything happen after selling as a result of something not done to code, the prior owner could be in a heap of trouble.

e.g., he wires up that space, not to code, then sells the house and 6 months later a fire from the wiring burns the house down.

if investigation determines fire caused by not to code wiring, he'd potentially be in some serious hot water.


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

There's also roxul-board which is non-flammable.

check with your codes on insulation coverage.

Do not use fiberglass with a vapour barrier on the interior side on a cathedral style ceiling. The shingles aren't permeable so it has the effect of having two vapour barriers, one on the wrong side (the right side actually changes based on season) so moisture can get trapped and rot out the roof assembly.

No barrier is perfect.

Closed sell rigid or sprayed foam is ideal for this application; there's no moisture or air movement through foam what so ever.

You'll also have to look at insulating the floor from the garage ceiling; you can do the roof but still have very high heat loss.

With respect to getting heating and cooling to this room, adding a vent doesn't work well and steals supply air from other rooms. 

Get a separate unit for this room if you need it air conditioned. mini-split heatpump is best option but even a dual hose portable or window unit if u have a window will do much better.

Bonus rooms have higher heat loss/gain per square foot of floor than other rooms so it will never be comfortable if supplied by the central system.


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