# Dressing Up Edges of Tile



## Curmudgeon10 (Apr 29, 2010)

I am remodeling a two sided gas fireplace, and one of the issues I want to address is the black "raw" edge of the plain white tile on the surround. The contractor didn't install a "Schluter" edge, and my plans don't include replacing the tile so I can put one in. There will be a screen in front of this opening, so whatever I do to improve the appearance need not stand up to minute scrutiny. I've attached a picture of the existing situation --- oops, no I haven't because I see I lack "permission."

Can I just use some oil based white paint to help tone down those jarring raw edges? Any other suggestions (short of replacing the tile?). I know my wife would love some fancy tile edge molding, but I'm unsure how to adhere that --- or if it is even advisable --- to the metal of the gas fireplace unit. Perhaps it could just be stuck to the tile...


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Take a close look at grouting floats. The float is the tool you apply the grout with and has a handle on it so that you can pack the grout in between the tiles.

The better quality grout floats will have two square corners and two rounded corners. Notice how the grout float below has a rounded corner in the foreground and a square corner in the background: (If you can't tell from the rubber, look at the aluminum backing plate just under the handle.)










The rounded corners are meant for applying a fillet of grout along the edge of the field of tiles. That's because bull nose tiles are both expensive and often unavailable, and so tiling contractors will just grout the edges of their tiling, and the rounded corners of the grout float make that easy to do. I've done this numerous times, and tile grout will stick well to painted walls and the tile edges.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Here's a better picture:










Those two rounded corners allow you to grout the perimeter of your tiling, thereby making your tiling look finished without the expense of ordering bullnose tiles for the perimeter of your tiling.

Also, you should use a film forming grout sealer on your grout (and perhaps on your tiles) if you intend to use that fire place. Otherwise soot from the fire will find it's way into the porous surface of your tiles and the grout surrounding them and discolour them both, and that'll be especially true for the tiles that are directly above the fire. Soot particles are so tiny that you'll never be able to get them out of the grout. Putting a clear plastic coating over the tiles and grout (which is what a film forming grout sealer does) will prevent the soot from getting into the porous surfaces of the tile and grout. Home Depot sells two good film forming grout sealer made by Tile Lab called "Gloss Sealer and Finish" and "Matte Sealer and Finish", which give you a glossy or matte surface to the grout sealer, respectively.


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## Curmudgeon10 (Apr 29, 2010)

Perhaps that is the solution. The fireplace is a sealed but vented gas unit, so no worries about combustion products. So essentially you are saying using the rounded edge will form a "cove" of grout along the edge of the tile, the grout obscuring the dark edge of the tile. This would also place the grout partially on the metal fire box of the gas fireplace --- not a problem?


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Curmudgeon10 said:


> Perhaps that is the solution. The fireplace is a sealed but vented gas unit, so no worries about combustion products. So essentially you are saying using the rounded edge will form a "cove" of grout along the edge of the tile, the grout obscuring the dark edge of the tile. This would also place the grout partially on the metal fire box of the gas fireplace --- not a problem?


I'd be concerned about getting the grout to stick to metal. Most likely what you'd need to do is use the "additive" (pronounced "adhesive") recommended for that grout by the manufacturer. Every grout manufacturer will market an "additive" which, from what I've seen, amounts to nothing more than a water based adhesive. Adding glue to the grout makes it stick better, but it also makes it more flexible so that if the wall or floor moves slightly, the tiling grout lines on that wall or floor won't crack. There will typically be different additives (pronounced "adhesives") for the thin set the tile is stuck to the substrate with, and for the grout that gets packed in between the tiles, but both do the same job, namely make the cementatious slurry (whether it be thin set or grout) stick better, and make it more tolerant to flexing. Often, that additive is added in powder form to the bag of thin set or grout, and the result will be a "racing stripe name" like: "UltraSuperFlex XL II".

Another option that comes to mind is to leave the tiling the way it is. There are many things more offensive to look at than the edge of a tile.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

you can paint it just fine. but, you can use the Schluter edging. just cut off the part that would go under the tiles. rough up the unseen surface. glue it on. grout.


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## Curmudgeon10 (Apr 29, 2010)

Any particular recommendations on the glue? I think this is the way I am going to go.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Curmudgeon10 said:


> Any particular recommendations on the glue? I think this is the way I am going to go.


i like liquid nails. but just look at the container, look for something that says it bonds metal. after all, all it has to do is hole little piece of metal in place.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh. you possibly could NOT trim the trim. but you would need to use an oscillating saw to undercut the tiles. then use the glue. this would be much more solid, if you thought you needed it.


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## Curmudgeon10 (Apr 29, 2010)

I visited a local tile store yesterday and talked over the various ideas. He showed me his selection of stone trim "pencils," polished on three sides, and I purchased enough to trim out my fireplace surround. He also suggested liquid nails. The product he sold me looks great and as long as the adhesive works --- no reason why it shouldn't --- this will class up the look of the fireplace quite a bit.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Just be careful of the adhesive squeeze can be a bear to clean up.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Curmudgeon:

You don't need the strength of a construction adhesive to hold those small accent tiles in place. Also, you should know that some glass accent tiles require a white thin set to set them in so that they remain bright and appealing to the eye. If you use a construction adhesive that's dark, then transparent glass tiles will also look dark, and not as colourful. I don't know what kind of accent tiles you want to use, nor do I know what colour Liquid Nails is, but you should be aware that glass tiles are meant to be set in a white thin set to maximize the amount of light coming out of the tiles, thereby making them look brighter and more colourful.

If I were you, I would use a caulk called "Kop-R-Lastic" in the clear variety as an adhesive to stick those tiles in place. Kop-R-Lastic cures to a rubbery consistancy that will pull off of most surfaces cleanly. And, you can use both mineral spirits and Acetone to clean it off if it gets onto something it shouldn't. If you can't buy Kop-R-Lastic locally, then pop in to your local Home Depot store and see if they sell something called "Stone Mason Gutter & Siding Sealant" in the aisle where they sell gutters. If so, then Stone Mason Gutter & Siding Sealant is Kop-R-Lastic being sold in a different package. Buy either the clear or the white, and use that as a glue to hold your accent tiles in place. That will be strong enough to hold the tiles, but it'll also be easy to remove the tiles and the caulk should you evern need or want to. If you glue them on with a construction adhesive, then have a game plan in place as to how you're going to remove them without damage to whatever they're stuck to.


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## Curmudgeon10 (Apr 29, 2010)

OK, these are stone, solid black with some veining, and have some heft to them (from above, "He showed me his selection of stone trim 'pencils,' polished on three sides). Actually I do need the strength of a construction type adhesive, particularly on the horizontal pieces at the top of the surround. The bond is going to be made between the stone pencil (flat, unpolished side) and the metal of the firebox, and a much smaller area on one side of the stone pencil adhering to the tile. Yep, must watch that squeeze out! Const. Adhesive is nasty stuff to clean up. Benn there, done that. That's why I go through so much tape on jobs like this.

I sincerely doubt there will be a need to remove these as long as I own the place, which is for another five years max. However, since most of the nasty stuff will be on the fire box --- albeit a thin line --- not too worried about bringing that back to new. Abrasives and high temp black spray paint can work. But again, no plan to ever do that.

Thanks to all who provided advice and expertise.


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