# Heil High Efficiency 5000



## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

Replace capacitor


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I just checked the compressor for short to ground with power on. No sign of a short.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Compressor is good, condenser fan motor is going out.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

turn breaker off to condenser. remove compressor from circuit meaning remove the herm at the cap and the run and common from the compressor from the contactor, leaving only the fan wired up.

flip the breaker on. if the compressor comes on without any tripping of the breaker which it hasn't done yet and keeps running for a few minutes then it's most likely good. Don't leave it running without any fan for any length of time.

Flip breaker off. wire compressor back in and then unwire the fan, remove the wire from the fan terminal on the cap and the wires from the run and common fromthe fan. run will be on the contactor and common could be at the contactor or on the cap.

flip breaker back on and see if the fan comes on without any help and with a good capacitor. if it does not,fan is bad. the heat you are getting is from the electricity being sent to the fan and it not being able to do it's work so the fan motor heats up extremely hot to the touch.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

boman47k said:


> I just checked the compressor for short to ground with power on. No sign of a short.


Unless the breaker for the condenser unit is bad and stuck any grounded compressor would trip the breaker.

what's happening is your windings in the fan motor are weak. they can show good when fan is cool but not work once hot.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

model #: CA553SVKD2 Seems to be International Comfort stamped Heil.

Any source of a schematic for this? It seems to be an extra wire I do not remember being on the cap going somewhere. The schematic is a little weather frayed and I cannot get a good picture of this extra wire. I don't remember any being doubled on the cap..

Thank you guys for responding.

P.s> Bound for me to need a weird part that I have to run all around town to find.

Checked 3 places within about a mile of my house. No luck yet. OH, and one place in the next city.

I did find the same rated cap online at 2 places. About $69 at one place. $16 at the other (Dayton cap).


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

take some pictures of the service area including all wires, post them here, and we'll tell you where they go and what they are for.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Good idea. I'll see if I can't get that done tomorrow.

Thanks.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

In the meantime I have some pictures of condenser service areas, tell me what or which ones you don't understand and either myself or someone else will explain (as I have a hot date and thus I'm outta here shortly.)


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Not the best of pics. Getting dark and bat's low in camera.

The cap a buddy gave me is hanging to the side for now. I am told it is too little for the compressor and too big for the fan.

Hopefully you can see in the schematic what I am talkking about when I mention a second wire on one terminal of the cap and the path being faded out. It is on the herm terminal. It is a blue wire going to the compressor. I can't remember a second wire being there.

The 1st pic shows the cap with what looks like two wires going somewhere (back to the contactor?) at the top right.

The last pic shows the same top left.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I can make out where it says 'crankcase heater (optional). Maybe the second wire waqs optional. Used when/if a heater is used?


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## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

Doc Holliday said:


> In the meantime I have some pictures of condenser service areas, tell me what or which ones you don't understand and either myself or someone else will explain (as I have a hot date and thus I'm outta here shortly.)


Are you going to work at the attic LOL.......hot date :whistling2:


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## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

Do it right.....replace, contactor, dual capacitor and install start kit.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Yellow extra most likely from line 2 of contractors to common on cap.
Jjboy, Don't post anything like that on this site


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Never mind, red wire from contractors to cap common already there.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

My fault. That was good, "hot date" and "an attic." Pretty funny. :laughing:

OP, I can't make where that yellow wire is coming from. If you can trace it back to it's origin then I can help you. If it's from the fan than it goes on the capacitor with the red wire on the common terminal.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

The yellow wire in my pic is the low voltage (24 v) going to the coil.

Today as I was trying to find a cap. I came across a place that worked on motors in the next town. I stopped. No luck on the dual cap. I suggested maybe two seperate cap if he had them. He had a 40 and 3 for 16.00. For some reason I had him check my old one. A place right down the road from him told me it was weak and needed replaced. This guy checks it and it checks out right on the money. Now we are back to the fan.

Got the fan replaced with its own cap. The new motor is 1/5 hp. Old one was 1/6 hp. Old moter was 1100 rpm's, new one is 1075. The change in motors meant a change in uf form 3 to 5 for the fan, so it got its own cap.

The old cap was 440 volts. The compressor is still running off of it. The new cap for the new fan motor is 370 volts/5 uf.

Long story short, for $157 and change my house is cool again. 

Hopefully, in my wife's eyes, I will be :icon_cool: when she gets back from Gulf Shores. :thumbsup:

Unless the house burns down! :huh:

Thanks guys for taking the time to respond.


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## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

So, you kept the dual capacitor (440V) connected to the compressor and installed the new motor with the new cap (370V) right?

If you changed the dual capacitor (440v) for 370V you're doing wrong. 

Just making sure:thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

JJboy;728350[B said:


> ]So, you kept the dual capacitor (440V) connected to the compressor and installed the new motor with the new cap (370V) right?[/B]
> If you changed the dual capacitor (440v) for 370V you're doing wrong.
> 
> Just making sure:thumbsup:


Right new 370 cap for the new fan motor. I did ask the young guy about that. He was a different guy than I first talked to. His opinion was the fan was only 220 volts and the new cap would be okay. The new fan does seem to work fine. Starts with no hesitation.

Should I be concerned?


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## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

Should be ok 370v for the new fan motor......keep the compressor with 440v capacitor:thumbsup:


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

JJboy said:


> Should be ok 370v for the new fan motor......keep the compressor with 440v capacitor:thumbsup:


Exactly what we did.

I decided to take a look at my old motor I kept. Printed on it is: 5 MFD 370 vac capacitor.

As I stated, the original cap is a dual cap 440 volts 40 and 3 micro farads.

Maybe this is the reason I have had to change the fan out twice? I thought it was a little odd someone had marked the terminals with a black marker as it was very hard to read what each terminal was.


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## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

There isn't problem to change 370v to 440v. We are getting a lot capacitors made in China.....with are sucks. :furious:


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Looks like the original fan was rated for 5 mfds. It was running off a 3 mfds cap. I was not aware the original fan was rated for 5uf's.

I am very inexperienced with this sort of thing. I did work on the older kitchen appliances several years ago, never really got into heating and air much. That being said, I take "mfd" to be the same as uf (micro farads). Hope I spelt that right.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Kind of ironic just getting my cooling situation fixed a day or two ago and turning the *heat* on this morning. It was 67deg when I looked at the stat.


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## JJboy (Oct 12, 2010)

boman47k said:


> Kind of ironic just getting my cooling situation fixed a day or two ago and turning the *heat* on this morning. It was 67deg when I looked at the stat.



At least you saved in electric bill :whistling2:


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

By switching from electric to gas? Maybe, but with the cost of the fan motor.....

I guess wife has the heat set at 68, but the fan seems to run constantly. Is it supposed to? Or should it go off when the stat is satisfied?


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Disregard the comment about the fan running constantly. I decided to look at the stat to check the settings, fan, auto, etc..

It was set on fan. Set it on auto and think I am good to go now. :whistling2:


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