# Drive Point Well for Sprinkler System?



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

I have done it for water at my lake home.

It is not too bad, but depends on the geology of the site. You should check around to see what the neighboing sites have for dept,

You may need a permit, but you could possibly avoid the water testing if you can show it is strictly for watering. Some areas are very critical of new wells since they provide possible contamination for the existing wells. If you ever abandon a well, you may be required to plug it, which can be very expensive (more that the cost of driving/drilling it). The penalties are HUGE!!! and should be!

I started in my basement and hit water at 2'. The man (local expert) I hired to help me said to keep going and checked the soil by using a monkey wrench to twist the point. When we hit the right "feel" he told me to stop (about 20'). He said if we had gone deeper like my neighbor (40'), I would have had less water, more odor and more iron.

That was for drinking water, so all you need is enough flow. Local advice is still very valuable.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

Well, my house is basically surrounded by a 15-20 acre marsh that used to be filled with 3-4 feet of water. It has since subsided to a small pond in the middle with sitting water starting about 200 yards from the back of my house. Im assuming if I dig two feet down in my back yard it will be water, but I guess Im not sure what a good approach would be to find the best depth for most GPM of water the well can supply. Should I just dig 5 feet, test GPM with pump, dig another 2, test, and repeat until I find a large enough supply and hope its good enough?


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

To avoid the testing runs, I found an old guy from the area that knew the well business. The local soils, water levels and geology can be very deceiving.

You could go and drive a shallow well and test for how many gpms you can get. The problem comes, if you have the wrong soil, you can drain that area and get very little later.

In my case, if I had gone deeper by a few feet, I would have gotten very little water and be force to go much deeper to another layer and different type of soil. - Every area is different.

Since you are just after water for your lawn, you only want quantity and not quality.

If you can't get any local advice based on experience, all you can do is pick a good spot and pump for a while to see what you get.


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## tigerbalm2424 (Feb 28, 2007)

concretemasonry said:


> To avoid the testing runs, I found an old guy from the area that knew the well business. The local soils, water levels and geology can be very deceiving.
> 
> You could go and drive a shallow well and test for how many gpms you can get. The problem comes, if you have the wrong soil, you can drain that area and get very little later.
> 
> ...


Thanks. Should I use a tank in between the pump and the irrigation system to hold water, or just use a pump right out of the well? Also, I've been told that when drive point wells are used that the water will contain lots of rust and will stain anything it touches(i.e. siding, sidewalks, driveways), have you ever heard of some type of inline filter or such that might minimize rust?


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