# Clogged kitchen sink still clogged. Snaked it 10 times.



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The last thing to use on a cloged drain is drain cleaner.
Have you removed the drap under the sink to see if it's clogged?
Once that's off and cleaned you run the snake into the drain where it goes into the wall, not down the sink drain.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

I ran the snake down this vent cap. Probably at least 15 times now.

When I put the vent cap back on and test the sink, it clogs up every time. Both p-traps are clear.

I have also plunged it extensively with no success.


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## wctekkk (May 29, 2012)

you need a longer cable, i suggest to hire a licence plumber


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Roto-rooter wanted $240 to clear the drain. No thanks.

I'd like to try a few more options before resorting to this exorbitant charge.

Thoughts on the following?

Large drain bladder-
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...word=drain+auger&storeId=10051#specifications

Auger spin-
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...eyword=drain+auger&storeId=10051#BVRRWidgetID


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Bladder might work. Or find a plumber for about half that cost


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Yeah, I figured $120 should be the going rate and I would have been fine with that.


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## wctekkk (May 29, 2012)

sorry they want how much just about choked on my beer i could have retired along time ago with those prices but your spinning your wheels without a longer cable for another $200 you can buy a snake H/D has decent rigid drum is there another c/o further d/s=down steam?


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Here is the power spin I was planning on buying. Ridgid power spin. 25ft. 1/4". I just used a 25ft manual snake without success. But that was slowly turning it at various points where it felt thick. It's hard to tell if it's clogged further down. I was able to get the entire 25 feet down it. It sure feels like a big blob is in there about 6 feet in....

Hopefully this and or the bladder works. 

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...eyword=drain+auger&storeId=10051#BVRRWidgetID

Is that a 3" drain pipe underneath the sink? See pic in first post. Does one measure the outer diameter or inner diameter to determine pipe size?


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Bought the Ridgid Power Spin and couldn't get it cleared after working with it for an hour. 

Located a local plumber and he came out with a 5/8 snake (Ridgid drum, go figure) and cleared it out for $85 bucks. 

A fair price indeed. 

Thanks for the replies.


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## wctekkk (May 29, 2012)

don't want to say I told you oops just did. Don't feel bad kitchen drain sometimes you feed your cable in couple feet done I've had all 75' out pull back all in out and in several times before they clear they suck especially if your under a sink it's probably at the end of the 2" just before the trunk line good luck.


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## Jeff Ogilvie (Jul 5, 2012)

Don't throw the 1/4 power spin away, I have a problem kitchen drain and I got the power spin that attaches to the drill. It didnt work until I tied piece of towel about 1' long and 1" wide to the little twity thing on the vey end - tied it several times really tight to bulk it up. That seems to give it the ability to sweep the inside of the pipe better. Still often takes several tries. If you can get at the pipe in the cellar you could cut it and add an access point so you can work it from below instead of under the sink. I put in a 45 facing up the pipe and another 45 facing down the pipe natrually they need caps. Good luck


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

noone said:


> I ran the snake down this vent cap. Probably at least 15 times now.
> 
> When I put the vent cap back on and test the sink, it clogs up every time. Both p-traps are clear.
> 
> I have also plunged it extensively with no success.


Dumb question.....have you tried leaving the vent cap (Air Admitance Valve) off to see if it works better? 

If it does...credit goes to TheEplumber....he suggested it in another thread.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

ddawg16 said:


> Dumb question.....have you tried leaving the vent cap (Air Admitance Valve) off to see if it works better?
> 
> If it does...credit goes to TheEplumber....he suggested it in another thread.


If you do this and the drain is still clogged you'll end up flooding underneath your cabinet, so be careful......


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Alan said:


> If you do this and the drain is still clogged you'll end up flooding underneath your cabinet, so be careful......


 
Good point...didn't think of that....but that would also lead me to believe that maybe that is the problem. Being so close to the drain, gunk has got into the check valve and is preventing it from opening.

I use something similar in my regular job...but we call them vacuum breaks. We also put them up fairly high to keep the hot water away from them (they can be subjected to steam on a regular basis)


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

ddawg16 said:


> Good point...didn't think of that....but that would also lead me to believe that maybe that is the problem. Being so close to the drain, gunk has got into the check valve and is preventing it from opening.
> 
> I use something similar in my regular job...but we call them vacuum breaks. We also put them up fairly high to keep the hot water away from them (they can be subjected to steam on a regular basis)


I did consider that the vent was causing the issue and tested that theory in the beginning, and yes, water rushed out. So it wasn't the vent. As noted earlier it was a heavily clogged pipe (concrete slab foundation). $85 well spent assuming I don't have any recurring issues. The house is 17 years old and we just bought it last year. I'm thinking that clog I just had was the tipping point of a building clog over 17 years.


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