# Insulating basement waste line



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

R-10 would not be conventional insulation in a 2 X 4 wall.
R-13 would be the norm.
For a basment that would be more then enough.
Are you planing on living in this basement? Not sure why there's such a concern.


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## Ultrarunner (Jan 20, 2012)

joecaption said:


> R-10 would not be conventional insulation in a 2 X 4 wall.
> R-13 would be the norm.
> For a basment that would be more then enough.
> Are you planing on living in this basement? Not sure why there's such a concern.


Yes Joe, the basement is going to be living space. Master bedroom/bathroom, and a larger great room. I mentioned R10, as that is code, but certainly R13 would be fine.

I'm focusing on the noisy pipes, as this place isn't old enough for cast Iron, I have PVC. In doing a bit of research, I've come across 'QuietWrap' and similar products....

I look forward to your comments,


Thanks.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I would encourage you to read through the myriad of threads on this forum about basement insulation.

Fiberglass is not usually a suitable insulation for below grade applications given its tendency to grow mold and be moisture sensitive.

As far as the waste pipes go, I have never heard a complaint from a customer after stud walls and insulation are up.

You will probably find that standard insulation and drywall will do the trick.


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## Ultrarunner (Jan 20, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> I would encourage you to read through the myriad of threads on this forum about basement insulation.
> 
> Fiberglass is not usually a suitable insulation for below grade applications given its tendency to grow mold and be moisture sensitive.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your comments. I would agree there are better options than fiberglass batts....heck, if money were no object, I'd foam it with closed-cell. However, I'm being diligent in the installation of the vapor barrier, have a floating slab, and it's dry, with no current moisture propagation issues...

thanks again,

Ultra


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Even if you go with batts, I would recommend something other than fiberglass.

Rigid foam is not that bad from a pricing stand point.


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## Ultrarunner (Jan 20, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> Even if you go with batts, I would recommend something other than fiberglass.
> 
> Rigid foam is not that bad from a pricing stand point.


I would agree. I'll price out the rigid foam, as I like that product, and it's easy of install....

Thanks,

Ultra


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

Ultrarunner said:


> .... I'm being diligent in the installation of the vapor barrier....


 Below grade? I know it is debatable, but I have yet to read in the debate material that a vb below grade actually HELPS. At best, they seem to "not cause problems, enough to worry about", is how I read what I read. Maybe I misread.... but I'd be careful about a vb below grade unless it is real cold where you are (I'd still never install one myself, but....)


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

jklingel said:


> Below grade? I know it is debatable, but I have yet to read in the debate material that a vb below grade actually HELPS. At best, they seem to "not cause problems, enough to worry about", is how I read what I read. Maybe I misread.... but I'd be careful about a vb below grade unless it is real cold where you are (I'd still never install one myself, but....)


+1 

Agree on all points.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

Good to know I can still read. j


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

I am doing the same as you and went with 1" XPS glued to the block walls and 2x4 framed over that. I will use unfaced R13 batts. 2" XPS would be best, but the price is so much more. With 1" you have to monitor the humidity level and keep it below 50% in the summer. 

SEARCH. GBR has many links to the 'Building Sciences' sites explaining below grade insulation in GREAT detail.

Are the first floor drain lines PVC, steel, or cast iron?

B


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## stickjim (Feb 24, 2012)

measure pipe diameter and ask at your local building supply store for pipe insulation (pipe size plus 1 inch thickness should solve sound problems


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