# Wiring GE SunSmart Digital Timer to a 3 way switch



## Drummer609 (Mar 14, 2012)

I am trying to connect the Digital Timer switch to a 3 way switch. My issue is that the existing switch has 4 wires, Red, Black, White and Ground.

The Digital Timer has 5 wires, Red, Black, White, Blue and Ground (green). I can't understand how to connect it. Any help is appreciated.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Make and model of the timer would go a long way to getting some help. A link to the timer manual would be even better. The timer must be rated for use as a three switch.


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## thadsaab (Nov 12, 2010)

Drummer609 said:


> the existing switch has 4 wires, Red, Black, White and Ground.


Do those wires all come from the same cable? It may be the end of a three-way switch loop, which seems like it could be a problem for that timer.


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## SD515 (Aug 17, 2008)

Good point Thad. The timer being digital is going to require a neutral, and may not be in that switch box.


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## Drummer609 (Mar 14, 2012)

*Timer details*

It is GE SunSmart Digital Timer 15312
It is meant for a 3 way

Besides the four wires that are going to the current switch (Red, Black, White and Ground), there a bunch of White wires that are connect together in the box as well.

The wires to the current switch comes from two cables, Red, White and Ground come from one cable (the black from this cable goes some where else in the back); The Black wire to the current switch comes from another cable.

The link to the timer diagram is http://www.jascoproducts.com/suppor...ibraryManager/upload/15312-Manual-eng-spn.pdf 

Thanks.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

That black from the other cable is the common connection. You need to determine if that black is the power feed or the light fixture feed. That timer must be installed so the common connection is the LOAD feed.

If that wire on the common goes to the light then connect like this.

2. Connect the black common wire to the timer blue wire.
3. Connect white wire to the timer black (line) wire.
4. Connect red wire to the timer red (traveler) wire.
5. Connect the white wire of the timer to the white wire bundle in the switch box (neutral). 
6. Connect the green wire of the timer to ground in the switch box.


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## Drummer609 (Mar 14, 2012)

joed, thank you so much. It works like a charm. Appreciate everyone's comments.:thumbup:


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## florida4 (Mar 18, 2012)

*for timer on load side*

I spent an hour at Home Depot trying to resolve this question:

for the 3 wires leading to digital timer: black is hot, red is load, white wire. the black of timer goes to black incoming, blue of timer goes to red incoming, white to white, green to green, but where does red go to? I have another switch at the timer location, but this switch cant possibly be part of the configuration? or am i missing something? any help is greatly appreciated!


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

The switch MUST be installed in the switch position that controls the fixture. It can not be installed in the switch position that receives power.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

At the 3-way switch that receives the line power did you remove the always hot common wire and a traveler wire, wire nut them together with the supplied jumper wire and then attach the other end of the jumper back to the common terminal?


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

*Same problem, slightly different wiring*

I have the same question as Drummer (red, black & white going to the old 3-way) but the difference is that instead of a bundle of white wires in the box, I have a black & white that are nutted together. What does that mean?

Joe D said to connect the white from the timer to the white bundle in the box. It doesn't seem like I should do the same with the black & white I have.

Also, how can you tell which is the load side and which is the line side?

and/or

How do you determine which is the power feed and which is the light fixture feed?

Any help is much appreciated!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Chuck42 said:


> I have the same question as Drummer (red, black & white going to the old 3-way) but the difference is that instead of a bundle of white wires in the box, I have a black & white that are nutted together. What does that mean?
> 
> Joe D said to connect the white from the timer to the white bundle in the box. It doesn't seem like I should do the same with the black & white I have.
> 
> ...


The load side of the timer is the blue wire. The line side of the timer is the black wire.

As far as the white and black conductor wire nutted together, the black is most likely an always hot wire and the white is most likely part of a switch loop. If the white is part of a switch loop, the white should be reidentified with black tape or something at its ends.

Below is an example of a switch loop where a white wire is used to bring power to a switch.


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

Hammerlane, thanks for you replies, but I should have been clearer on with my first question...how do I determine which switch is load and which is line, not on the timer itself? One switch is by my front door, and the other is in the garage. They both control two outdoor lights, which is why I need the timer.



> As far as the white and black conductor wire nutted together, the black is most likely an always hot wire and the white is most likely part of a switch loop. If the white is part of a switch loop, the white should be reidentified with black tape or something at its ends.


So should I connect any of the timer wires to this? The white is not identified, but it comes in from one line with a black wire that is connected to the original switch, and the other line has black, white & red, with the white & red connected to the original switch and the black nutted with the other white. Wow! This is getting confusing.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Chuck42 said:


> how do I determine which switch is load and which is line, not on the timer itself? One switch is by my front door, and the other is in the garage. They both control two outdoor lights, which is why I need the timer.


Use a meter. With lights off, Attach one lead to the common terminal of one of the 3-ways, attach the other meter lead to a neutral or ground wire in the box. 

If the meter reads about 115V, then that is your always hot wire. If the meter reads 0V, turn the lights at that switch and if the meter then shows about 115V, the wire at that common terminal is your switched hot or goes to the load.

You need to supply a diagram of all cables and where the wires from each cable are going to


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

This shows the configuration of the box I'm trying to figure out how to connect my timer to.  The timer has black, white, red, blue & ground. I'm still not sure how to connect the wires.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Your diagram is way too small to make out anything


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## geno_3245 (Sep 27, 2010)

There are 2 ways to wire GE 15312 sunsmart for 3-way.
It depends if you are replacing Line switch or Load switch.
Following link has illustrations for both single-pole and 3-way:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15312-timer.html


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

Thanks guys, but I'm still confused because of the configuration I have in both junction boxes, which looks like this:

View attachment Front door light switch wiring002.pdf


(I hope it's easier to see this time)

Both boxes have a black and white nutted together from two different cables coming into the box. Do I separate those and use them to connect the timer? The wiring diagram that came with the timer shows the whites nutted together, the black from one cable connected to the black on the timer and the other black connected to the blue on the timer. I think I'm trying to install the timer on the load side but I'm not sure.

On what I think is the line side, the diagram says to use the jumper that came with the timer and connect it to the two blacks from the two cables in the junction box.

I thought about trial and error but I don't want to damage anything. Any other thoughts?


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## geno_3245 (Sep 27, 2010)

You are replacing 3-way switch.
This is not simple because wiring is different depending if you are replacing Line side or Load side switch. Plus remaining 3-way switch must be rewired or the timer will not work.
Open following link and view each 3-way illustration, and read the text.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-GE-15312-timer.html#3-way
Difference between your drawing, and illustrations on link is the wire color on 3-wire cable. The 3-wire cable travels between both switches. Your black and white wire colors are reversed from illustrations on link. 
Otherwise there are no differences.
The dark screw is common screw.
Here's how to start:
Timer red wire connects to red wire in all cases.
Timer white wire connects to the blue wire nut.
If you are replacing Line side 3-way switch, do the following:
Timer black wire connects to black wire that is connected to dark screw.
Timer blue wire connects to white wire that is connected to switch.
If you are replacing Load side 3-way switch, then reverse timer blue and black wires.
##### Remember, the timer replaces 1 switch, and the remaining 3-way switch must be rewired as shown in illustrations.


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

I looked over those illustrations the first time you posted the link but they didn't seem to explain my black/white nutted pairs. I think your explanation of connecting the white timer wire to the nutted pair goes along with the directions that came with the timer. I'm still not sure which is line and which is load, but I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know how it works out.

Have a great weekend!


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## geno_3245 (Sep 27, 2010)

2 cables enter box.
There is 3-wire cable, and 2 wire cable.
The 2-wire cable has black wire that connects to switch dark screw, and white wire connects to blue wire nut.
Turn power off.
Disconnect black wire from switch.
Separate white wire from other wire under wire nut.
Turn power ON.
Wear gloves, stand on dry surface, and never stand on bare ground.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks.
Test black wire to white wire.
Test black wire to bare ground.
If black wire shows power, then that is Line side.
If no power, then that is Load side.
Test white wire to bare ground should show NO power, or there is a short or this switch is used for something else.


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

I got it working!!! Thanks to Geno and hammerlane for your help!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Chuck42 said:


> I got it working!!! Thanks to Geno and hammerlane for your help!



What did you do??


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## Chuck42 (May 16, 2012)

Here are the connections I made from the timer to the box:

Timer red wire to red wire.
Timer white wire to nutted black/white.
Timer blue wire to black wire connected to dark screw.
Timer black wire to white wire connected to switch.

I also connected the jumper that came with the timer to the black wires on the load switch.

It's worked for two days now.


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## thundertim (Mar 4, 2013)

*similar issue, but with 4-way switch*

I'm trying to install the same device but from what I can tell, have a 4-way switch. House was built 2 years ago so modern stuff. Upon removing the original switch, it has the following:

--two blacks on one side of the switch (marked "in" and "out")

--two reds on the other side, also marked in and out

--the ground. 

--the bundle of whites in the back of the box

I assume on the timer, black has to go to the "in" black, and the blue goes to the "out" black, white would go to the bundle of whites in the box, and green would go to the ground.

That leaves me the two in-and-out reds, and one red left on the timer. Should I just hook those three up with a wiring nut and cross my fingers? Also, if there are 2 other switches for these lights, it's news to me. 

Thanks in advance and let me know if you need further detail.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

That is a four way switch. You need to put the timer at one of the other switch locations and I am not even sure if it can be in a four way way setup . The directions do not show that option.


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