# best paver leveling sand?



## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

Not sure what you mean "what product"?

If you have your base aggregate down and compacted, all you need are two pipes and a board. I took a clas at one of the local paver supply places and the said lay down two metal (metal, not plastic which will flex) pipes whose widths are the approximate sand depth you need (1"?) paralles to each other. Pour the sand around them and screed level with a straight 8' 2x4. Pull the pipes out carefully and fill the holes they left.

Its easier than it sounds, I found out when doing my 400 sq ft patio last summer.

B


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## bmilhansen (Aug 3, 2012)

I mean which brand of sand, they all have bad reviews


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

Reviews? Sand is sand.

How many sq ft is the project you are doing? Are you talking the layer of sand on top of the aggregate that you are laying the pavers on, or are you talking about the sand that you are sweeping over the top to fill the spaces between the pavers?

B


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

The setting bed that is over the compacted base should be uniformly 1" thick and ordinary concrete sand is readily available. The sand thickness to be uniform and uncompacted (just screeded). I drainage is needed, the base should be contoured to provide the needed slope, if any.

The sand to cast on the pavers after they are set with tight joints could be concrete sand since the gradation specification are quite loose. It can be used if it is on the fine side, but often masonry sand for mortar is used. Don't bother with the expensive polymeric sand unless it is a small job and convenient. - I have never seen polymeric sand used on a serious paver installation.

Too thick a setting bed can cause "floating" and low spots in the future.

Just vibrate with a plate vibrator to make the surface uniform and draw some of the setting bed up into the joints and force the cast surface sand down into the joints to create the strength and stability of the surface.

These are relatively standard construction steps/method for interlocking concrete pavers world-wide for decades.

If you are using larger units (over 12" in any dimension), they are not really pavers, but usually just "stepping stones" that have less strength and stability when installed.

Dick


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

bmilhansen said:


> I mean which brand of sand, they all have bad reviews


You want number 2 torpedo sand,the same thing they use for concrete.


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## bmilhansen (Aug 3, 2012)

Beepster said:


> Reviews? Sand is sand.
> 
> How many sq ft is the project you are doing? Are you talking the layer of sand on top of the aggregate that you are laying the pavers on, or are you talking about the sand that you are sweeping over the top to fill the spaces between the pavers?
> 
> B


 roughly 320 sq feet, im inquiring about the sand on top on of the aggregate.




concretemasonry said:


> The setting bed that is over the compacted base should be uniformly 1" thick and ordinary concrete sand is readily available. The sand thickness to be uniform and uncompacted (just screeded). I drainage is needed, the base should be contoured to provide the needed slope, if any.
> 
> The sand to cast on the pavers after they are set with tight joints could be concrete sand since the gradation specification are quite loose. It can be used if it is on the fine side, but often masonry sand for mortar is used. Don't bother with the expensive polymeric sand unless it is a small job and convenient. - I have never seen polymeric sand used on a serious paver installation.
> 
> ...


Damn i was told the bigger the paver the more stable =( im using 15 3/4" . Lowes website is wrong on dimensions but thi is what i am using http://www.lowes.com/pd_60096-215-104801256_0__?Ntt=60096&productId=3036362&rpp=48 . I guess i will use the quikrete all purpose sand


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

bmilhansen

For a patio, the larger units (16x16) will be adequate because it is unlikely you will not have a car or truck driving on it.

The smaller pavers are thicker, more precise and have more area for contact at the joint that gives the real strength.

The pattern of the laying also can give more strength because of the different shapes and a generally rectangular (not square) allows allows different patterns like herringbone than have more stability.

Dick


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