# Automotive Repairs/Maintenance Myths and Truths



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Please feel free to add your own along the way, if you want. I need to learn more about my maintenance and repairs that I do on my wife's car ...and mine.
> 
> Please support your reply with your own known experiences, if possible. I'll start out with a popular one. :biggrin2:
> 
> ...


No leaks on the one I switched over to synthetics 25 years ago.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Leaks only start with a failed seal or gasket, not the type of oil used in the vehicle.

Gaskets fail by being pinched , kinked, or damaged during installation.

Valve cover gaskets might fail if one or more bolts work loose.

Seals fail if contaminants, like water, dirt or other crud gets between them and the shaft that they are sealing.

Contaminants get in there by being immersed in muddy water, or heavy off roading, or other abuses.

I personally don't see the benefits of buying expensive synthetics, if a person diligently changed oil correctly.


ED


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Not if you don't already have a leak. If you do, it will get worse. 

No reason not to switch if you aren't leaking already.

I am a huge fan of synthetics. They aren't that much of a premium over good dino oil now, they clean better, flow better, better wear numbers, etc.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

2. My vehicle owner's manual states that my engine is designed to use 87 octane fuel.

I bet though, if I go ahead and pay 10 more cents a gallon and run 89 or even higher octane fuel, I'll get even more "power and better gas mileage" from my engine.

True or False ?


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

My owner's manual states my vehicle requires 92 octane gas.

True or false?

Answer: depends. My Navigator is supposed to "require" 92 octane but has never been run on anything other than 87 octane. Performance is fine, no discernible issues of any kind. I assume that if I was towing something, 92 would be required or at least a good idea, but as a regular daily driver, 87 is fine.

A sports car or some other high compression engine would probably actually "require" 92 octane, but my Navigator does not.


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Octane has nothing to do with the amount of energy in a fuel. It is a standard number representing the fuels resistance to igniting under compression.
So no, it is not going to increase mileage or power.

If your vehicle knocks (pre detonation), you increase octane to prevent the knocking. 

Unless you have done something to increase compression or boost in your engine, the mfg recommendation is usually correct.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> 2. My vehicle owner's manual states that my engine is designed to use 87 octane fuel.
> 
> I bet though, if I go ahead and pay 10 more cents a gallon and run 89 or even higher octane fuel, I'll get even more "power and better gas mileage" from my engine.
> 
> True or False ?


False. The use of any higher octane fuel would be a waste of money. Caveat, some additives in gas actually do improve performance and offer cleaners that help injectors. This is not octane related. Shell or Chevron, across their product lines, offer these additives. Their gas is priced higher too.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

3. Some gas stations use winter " blends" in their gasoline so that vehicles will run better in cold temperatures.

True or false ?


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> 3. Some gas stations use winter " blends" in their gasoline so that vehicles will run better in cold temperatures.
> 
> True or false ?


This is true. Refineries, not gas stations, formulate winter and summer blends of gas.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

4. It is best to "break in " new disc brake pads when they are first installed.

True or False ?


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> 4. It is best to "break in " new disc brake pads when they are first installed.
> 
> True or False ?


Don't know. I always replace rotors with pads. Never a squeak.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> Don't know. I always replace rotors with pads. Never a squeak.



It's true. Just one of many hits regarding the advantages for "breaking or bedding in" of new disc brake pads.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=New+Brake+Pad+Break+In&&view=detail&mid=76D0CEA1CC84E4E1612176D0CEA1CC84E4E16121&FORM=VRDGAR


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

5. A clogged catalytic convertor will have the highest temperature reading at its outlet port. True or False ?


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

False.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Please feel free to add your own along the way, if you want. I need to learn more about my maintenance and repairs that I do on my wife's car ...and mine.
> 
> Please support your reply with your own known experiences, if possible. I'll start out with a popular one. :biggrin2:
> 
> ...


Don't know if true or not, but the 'logic' is that in a high-mile engine, possibly not well-maintained, sludge and deposits build-up and become all that remains to prevent leaks at the front and back crank seals. Putting syn in washes away the crud and leaks start. May have had some truth back when main seals were very crude packed rope. Back then they all leaked anyway.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> 2. My vehicle owner's manual states that my engine is designed to use 87 octane fuel.
> 
> I bet though, if I go ahead and pay 10 more cents a gallon and run 89 or even higher octane fuel, I'll get even more "power and better gas mileage" from my engine.
> 
> True or False ?


Depends on the engine design. If it's fuel injected, and has knock sensors, if the sensors hear knock the EFI computer will reduce spark advance until the knock stops. Advance is good for engine power and economy. Higher octane less likely to knock.

If your engine is designed to run at X octane and you put in higher, will you get more advance? Maybe only under certain heavy load conditions?

Are there any new cars left that are not FI?


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Very good point Chuck ....

I am one of those weird people that read a vehicles operating manual and try to stick with what the manufacturers recommend for the vehicle, its fluids, maintenance schedule, operating procedures of the features on it. They engineered the vehicle so, just how am I being a simple minded lay person regarding automotive issues...going to know more than they do ? 

Just ONE true example that proved my point to me. When it came time to change my spark plugs on my Jeep, I got on the internet and searched to see what people were saying to use. I bought the SP's that was the rave, and installed them. My Jeep's gas mileage dropped ( from its already poor MPG) and it lost power. So I raised my hood and right under it where the hood latch pin is located I see a factory label. It has the factory installed spark plug to be used on the Jeep. I removed the "rave" plugs and bought the factory specified SP's. My Jeep then...picked up its MPG, power and ran a LOT smoother. 

It just seems people by nature, while wanting to find something better for their vehicle's, pick up on these "legends" out here. Along with the help of the huge "after market" industries constantly promoting their products that will supposedly, " increase your engines power, add 100K miles to the life of it, make it start better, run smoother, etc. On and on. 

Now my opinion here does not apply to people, "high performancing" their vehicles that are good prospects for upgrading. I am speaking about our Mom and Pop's A - B go to work/store passenger vehicles. JMO


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

ChuckF. said:


> Don't know if true or not, but the 'logic' is that in a high-mile engine, possibly not well-maintained, sludge and deposits build-up and become all that remains to prevent leaks at the front and back crank seals. Putting syn in washes away the crud and leaks start. May have had some truth back when main seals were very crude packed rope. Back then they all leaked anyway.


And let's not forget back then engines had draft crankcase ventilation and not PVC that maintains a vacuum in the crankcase.:biggrin2:


----------



## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> It just seems people by nature, while wanting to find something better for their vehicle's, pick up on these "legends" out here. Along with the help of the huge "after market" industries constantly promoting their products that will supposedly, " increase your engines power, add 100K miles to the life of it, make it start better, run smoother, etc. On and on.


I know what you mean. I cannot believe they are still selling junk like the Tornado Fuel Saver (now called Tornado Air), Slick 50 and ZMax. All three of these products have been debunked time and again as providing no significant advantage to their use despite some of their ridiculous price tags..


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Does Seafoam actually improve engine performance and drivability?

True or false.

Answer, I don't know. I have never used it myself. People I know who have used it swear by it though.


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> Does Seafoam actually improve engine performance and drivability?
> 
> True or false.
> 
> Answer, I don't know. I have never used it myself. People I know who have used it swear by it though.


 True but not on a newer vehicles as it doesn't need it yet. But there are better products out there. I use Motor Vac. BG is good also.:vs_cool:


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> Does Seafoam actually improve engine performance and drivability?


Depends on what engine you are talking about. 

I’ve never seen a need in vehicles that are used regularly, unless they were mal-treated for a while. I’ve run it thru problem fuel/carburetor systems and it has cleaned them up to the point that we didn’t have to resort to a carb rebuild.

In equipment or vehicles that are stored for long periods (eg over the winter) it helps reduce moisture in the tank, reduces gum deposits, and makes them start easier in the spring time.

It’s quite popular within the boating market, lawn equipment, RVs, etc.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> Does Seafoam actually improve engine performance and drivability?
> 
> True or false.
> 
> Answer, I don't know. I have never used it myself. People I know who have used it swear by it though.



True.

Naptha, I think is the key ingredient in SF, as it burns up the icky gas residue/carbon build up in engines. I have used it on my lawn equipment and with just one tank of gas with SF ran through the engine, it runs better for sure, and smoother. Our two vehicles I have not used SF on though...yet. I may try it one day though, as I believe SF will do what it states it will do. .


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Whenever a vehicle's automatic transmission gets the required filter/fluid change, it is best to add a *transmission additive *that will help extend the life of the transmission. True or False ?


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Whenever a vehicle's automatic transmission gets the required filter/fluid change, it is best to add a *transmission additive *that will help extend the life of the transmission. True or False ?


False.

AAmco, honors their warranty, by changing the fluid and filter yearly. Without any additives. They call and set up an appointment, and if you fail to bring the vehicle in you void the warranty, so always get in there and get a free fluid and filter change.

ED


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Right on de-nagorg !

I remember 4 years ago when I dropped my Jeep off at my trusted trans shop for a service filter/fluid job. When I was paying the clerk I noticed on the invoice material list used = xxx pints of fluid with one quart xxxx brand additive. WTH ???

I knew additives should not be added to trans fluid, so I asked the manager why he did so. 

He told me, " I put the xxxx additive in *all *my customers transmission's. It helps to reduce the transmission's bands wear down from friction, while keeping the fluid temperature down lower." 

I told the guy he should have *asked me before doing so, *and just left him standing there with a puzzled look on his face. :vs_frown:


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Right on de-nagorg !
> 
> I remember 4 years ago when I dropped my Jeep off at my trusted trans shop for a service filter/fluid job. When I was paying the clerk I noticed on the invoice material list used = xxx pints of fluid with one quart xxxx brand additive. WTH ???
> 
> ...


I hope his friction fighter wasn't STP.

A farmer I worked for when STP was in its -_informative- _years had me add 2 cans to the oil change of a LA Case tractor I was operating. IIR the engine required 8 or 10 quarts. A 14 ft. drag spring tooth was an easy load for it normally but it wouldn't pull it up over terraces after the change. Well, it seems as if those tractors had an oil clutch that ran with the engine oil. Another much sooner than normal oil change solved the problem.


----------



## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

I did a stint pumping gas, many years ago when self-serve was still new.

The vast majority of folks who wanted high-octane gas believed that, because it was more expensive, it was somehow "better." Most didn't have a clue what octane was, or whether their engines needed a higher octane or not.

Folks in this town do seem to enjoy paying more for everything; maybe in other places common sense prevails.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> I hope his friction fighter wasn't STP.
> 
> A farmer I worked for when STP was in its -_informative- _years had me add 2 cans to the oil change of a LA Case tractor I was operating. IIR the engine required 8 or 10 quarts. A 14 ft. drag spring tooth was an easy load for it normally but it wouldn't pull it up over terraces after the change. Well, it seems as if those tractors had an oil clutch that ran with the engine oil. Another much sooner than normal oil change solved the problem.


I would just as soon not post the name of the trans additive he put in my Jeep, as I do not like to bash or promote a product unless I have a solid reason and proof to me, for doing so.

I do know that he put the additive in my trans 4 years ago when my 2003 model Jeep engine and trans had just 80 K miles on them. At that time, my trans had NO signs of issues.

Today, my trans has 94K on it and I am one of those drivers that baby's their cars. I don't do "jack rabbit" starts from stops, no stomping the gas pedal to the floor on hills, just to get it to downshift sooner. No manual shifting to get more torque. With the repairs costs today, I don't have the $$$ to spend in my olden years now on repairs, for abusing my vehicle or not maintaining it properly.. 

In just the passed two months I have noticed that when I start my Jeep and let it idle, all is quiet. As soon as I slip it in to reverse and hold the brake, I hear a rubbing sound from my flywheel area. 

As soon as I pull it from reverse to drive, the noise stops. It is the typical sound I heard whenever a couple of my 70' -80' vehicles with auto trans, has their torque convertors going bad. 

So today, I have NO way of really knowing if my trans noise is related to the additive being put in my trans *or not. * But the additive being put in my trans without me being asked, still twerks me. 

Especially when anyone can read from their owners manual or internet manufactures site for their vehicle, where they state below while I am paraphrasing a bit here,

" Do NOT put an additive in to your vehicle's automatic transmission fluid. The manufacturer's specified fluid will do everything needed to make your transmission function properly and have many years of service". lain:


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> I would just as soon not post the name of the trans additive he put in my Jeep, as I do not like to bash or promote a product unless I have a solid reason and proof to me, for doing so.
> 
> I do know that he put the additive in my trans 4 years ago when my 2003 model Jeep engine and trans had just 80 K miles on them. At that time, my trans had NO signs of issues.
> 
> ...


I put a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix in my old Mercury Villager, mostly to improve shifting. It didn't make any difference, one way or the other. The transmission wasn't shifting bad before, nor better after. I thought it might help and the fluid was a bit low, so I figured, why not?

I gave that mini-van away to a friend shortly afterward and she is still driving it. Plenty of other issues have cropped up, but the tranny going out isn't one of them.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> I put a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix in my old Mercury Villager, mostly to improve shifting. It didn't make any difference, one way or the other. The transmission wasn't shifting bad before, nor better after. I thought it might help and the fluid was a bit low, so I figured, why not?
> 
> I gave that mini-van away to a friend shortly afterward and she is still driving it. Plenty of other issues have cropped up, but the tranny going out isn't one of them.


Because "stop leaks, go faster, shift smoother. run quieter, run better, " additives ...are temporary fixes for permanent problems...if at that. JMO


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Oil additives or Stop leaks have chemicals that cause rubber seals and O rings to swell up, thereby reducing or stopping the leak. But it also means that you are putting wear on the seal that it would not normally have.

Change your oil and not use the stop leak, your oil leak returns and is worse than ever.

Oil or transmission additives are like addictive drugs for cars.


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've never used any additives in an automatic transmission unless there were already issues ..... and then it was rare for the additive to solve or lessen the problem.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

If I may butt into this thread with my own True-False question.

1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport, 3 liter V-6, 4x4, automatic trans, 185,000 miles, 

Runs great, just due for catchup on overdue maintenance. I hope to take it to 250,000 miles.

90,000 miles on the timing belt, to be replaced. 

I should also have the shop replace the water pump "while they're in there." True or False. 

(The original water pump was replaced at the last timing belt change.)
.
.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Was the original water pump failing at the time of change?

If not you are a victim of " UPSELLING".

Many shops make their " bread and butter" this way. Selling you parts and services that are unnecessary.

And as a reminder, be careful when using remanufactured water pumps, They take old failed units and just fix whatever has failed, leaving everything else that has many long time used up parts behind to fail you very soon.

Always buy a totally new unit, not remanufactured ones.


ED


----------



## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

ZZZZZ said:


> If I may butt into this thread with my own True-False question.
> 
> 1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport, 3 liter V-6, 4x4, automatic trans, 185,000 miles,
> 
> ...


True. 
Since the water pump is on the timing belt circuit, it should be replaced while in there. If not every time at least every other time. The timing belt (at least in the world of engines that I come from--VW TDIs) is hardly ever the component that fails. Usually it's a bearing, tensioner, or other component in the path of the timing belt. It would be a shame if a $30 part took out an otherwise healthy engine.

Sent from my SM-J730GM using Tapatalk


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

If you have to replace on injector, should you replace them all?

True or false?

Answer: in a perfect world where money is not an issue, yes. In the world I live in, where money is always an issue, no.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Bigplanz said:


> If you have to replace on injector, should you replace them all?
> 
> True or false?
> 
> Answer: in a perfect world where money is not an issue, yes. In the world I live in, where money is always an issue, no.


If one fail, what makes you think that the rest are not far behind.

I have seen it too many times, replace just a couple, and a month or less they are back with another couple failed.

ED


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

de-nagorg said:


> If one fail, what makes you think that the rest are not far behind.
> 
> I have seen it too many times, replace just a couple, and a month or less they are back with another couple failed.
> 
> ED


That's exactly why you should replace them all. $80 a piece, plus labor, is why you don't.

If you have $300 until payday, and need the car NOW, you replace the one that doesn't work.


----------



## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> If one fail, what makes you think that the rest are not far behind.
> 
> I have seen it too many times, replace just a couple, and a month or less they are back with another couple failed.
> 
> ED


This happened to me, back before I was confident in my automotive abilities--and actually prompted me to build my auto chops. Took my f150 to service center where they charged me 800usd to change the 2 injectors that were bad. Months later another one went. Had it and the rest changed for about a grand, after they told me that I could save money by having them all done. Why didn't they tell me that when I was in there the first time?? Then had to go back and pay another 200 bucks for a part they broke... Bunch of shady rip off artists. That's why I diy now.

Sent from my SM-J730GM using Tapatalk


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I think the main reasons most of us diy auto repair is because of the money saved and all the shops that either don't do all of what they charged for or do the job ineptly.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

mark sr said:


> I think the main reasons most of us diy auto repair is because of the money saved and all the shops that either don't do all of what they charged for or do the job ineptly.


That's how i got into auto diy. Now I spend money when I don't want to do a job.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

mark sr said:


> I think the main reasons most of us diy auto repair is because of the money saved and all the shops that either don't do all of what they charged for or do the job ineptly.


On newer vehicles, auto repair is as much computer technical skills as much as wrench and screwdriver mechanical skills.
.
.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Bigplanz said:


> That's exactly why you should replace them all. $80 a piece, plus labor, is why you don't.
> 
> If you have $300 until payday, and need the car NOW, you replace the one that doesn't work.


That's why me and Bank of America, have a partnership.

I use the card if and only when necessary, then pay it off ASAP.


ED


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

If I had a bad injector I would DIY.


----------



## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

ZZZZZ said:


> If I may butt into this thread with my own True-False question.
> 
> 1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport, 3 liter V-6, 4x4, automatic trans, 185,000 miles,
> 
> ...


Change the water pump. You never know when the water pump will go, and while the timing belt is out there is no additional labor cost for the pump. But if it goes out after the timing belt is put in, you have another $1000 bill for labor to take it all back apart.


----------



## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Please feel free to add your own along the way, if you want. I need to learn more about my maintenance and repairs that I do on my wife's car ...and mine.
> 
> Please support your reply with your own known experiences, if possible. I'll start out with a popular one. :biggrin2:
> 
> ...


This is a myth. Synthetic oil has the same viscosity and lubricating properties as traditional oil. Where it differs and the advantage is that it does not break down as quickly as traditional oil, thereby allowing the engine oil change frequency to increase. Although many of the new modern oils coupled with newer engines have increased oil life anyway, so the increased life is more important to fleet owners then individuals anymore.

I have worked in the auto industry for almost 20 years now as an engineer.


----------



## CodeMatters (Aug 16, 2017)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> 2. My vehicle owner's manual states that my engine is designed to use 87 octane fuel.
> 
> I bet though, if I go ahead and pay 10 more cents a gallon and run 89 or even higher octane fuel, I'll get even more "power and better gas mileage" from my engine.
> 
> True or False ?



Agree with other answers particularly post #7....in general.
Don't know about other areas but in Ontario there's another factor:
"Super" is the only gas you'll find that doesn't have ethanol added 
(at up to 10% I think). So for everything that sits for long periods 
between use I use super. My understanding is that it lasts longer 
as it doesn't absorb water like the gas with ethanol. Please let me 
know if this is false.


----------



## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

CodeMatters said:


> Agree with other answers particularly post #7....in general.
> Don't know about other areas but in Ontario there's another factor:
> "Super" is the only gas you'll find that doesn't have ethanol added
> (at up to 10% I think). So for everything that sits for long periods
> ...


Here in the US nearly all fuel has ethanol added. The other issue with ethanol is how it affects the fuel system components like O-rings, hoses, etc. If the system is not designed for it, there can be long term effects. This is a bigger deal on small engines since most of those are designed for no ethanol. They sell non-ethanol small equipment fuel here in stores that is expensive but supposedly better for the equipment,


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

When they first added ethanol and/or MTBE to fuel, I had a Chevy Luv pickup. (Anybody remember those?:biggrin2 Small 4 cylinder engine. The thing died after about a month running on that crappy fuel. All the fuel lines and the carburetor got fouled and gummed up. 
.
.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

That is why I buy the non- moonshine gasoline at the local Maverick store.

I have seen too many vehicles go to junkyard, because the fuel system went bad, due to running "moonshine" in them.

Yes it costs more, but I feel better knowing that I am caring for my ride correctly.


ED 


P. S. And I get better mileage with real pure gasoline.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

de-nagorg said:


> That is why I buy the non- moonshine gasoline at the local Maverick store.
> 
> I have seen too many vehicles go to junkyard, because the fuel system went bad, due to running "moonshine" in them.
> 
> ...


Yeah, in most parts of the country, people don't have a choice. Ethanol blend or nothing.

Only you cowboys out in Wyoming can get the good stuff. :biggrin2:
.
.


----------



## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

Tennessee still has plenty of places to get 100% gasoline, at a premium of course. I think it's because of all the lakes around so that boaters get the good stuff

Sent from my SM-J730GM using Tapatalk


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

ZZZZZ said:


> On newer vehicles, auto repair is as much computer technical skills as much as wrench and screwdriver mechanical skills.
> .
> .


 Ya, they aren't as simple as they used to be although having a code reader does help to take away some guess work.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Pure-gas.org can show you where to buy ethanol-free gas in the US and Canada.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

A vehicle has a EFI engine in it. It should have a fuel injector cleaner additive put in the fuel tank as a preventive maintenance measure to reduce injector fouling. True or False ?


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

True, but sparingly.

Only every 5000 miles or so, to keep the stuff from dissolving the plastic lines and rubber seals.


ED


----------



## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> A vehicle has a EFI engine in it. It should have a fuel injector cleaner additive put in the fuel tank as a preventive maintenance measure to reduce injector fouling. True or False ?


I'm going to go false on this. Especially new cars. Vehicles now are required to meet emissions at 150k miles, so power trains are tested to this point at beyond to ensure compliance. Engines have to meet this with only the scheduled maintenance listed in the owner's manual. So this means 10k oil change intervals and no additives, and at the end of the day they pass.

Honestly I don't think the snake oil you put in your tank will do jack. Hell I had a 99 civic I sold with 293k on it, original injectors, no additives and it ran fine.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

All vehicles should have their brake fluid removed and fresh fluid put in every 5 years. True or False ?


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I typically keep a vehicle 10 yrs or longer and I've never flushed/replaced the brake fluid other than what gets replaced making repairs. I've never noticed any issues from having old brake fluid. I don't discount that it might be prudent but it's too far down the list for me to bother with.


----------



## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> All vehicles should have their brake fluid removed and fresh fluid put in every 5 years. True or False ?


It's true that they SHOULD but experience shows that a brake system can be neglected for some time and still provide adequate serviceability. VW calls for a complete flush every x number of miles and, when followed, provides outstanding service life with minimal failure. Every vehicle I've owned that didn't have the brake fluid flushed regularly (all but the VW, totaling 7) has had to have brake service work beyond standard pads and shoes. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water into it. This property degrades the serviceability of the fluid over time by allowing it to boil easier, reducing the bulk modulus of the fluid. The water also tends to corrode the lines and actuating cylinders of the hydraulic system. The pitting that occurs in the cylinders prevents a good seal from being achieved and allows brake fluid to seep past the seals, reducing the effectiveness of braking. Of course, if too much fluid finds its way out of the system, the brakes will fail to actuate, altogether.
If you are interested in DIY fluid flushing, I highly recommend the Motive power bleeder. Adapters can be purchased along with it to accommodate most makes of vehicle or a generic adapter is available too. By feeding the master cylinder with pressurized fluid, you ensure that the reservoir will not go dry while bleeding and allows such ease as being able to simply open the bleeder at each wheel and wait for the fluid to run clear.

Sent from my mobile look-at device


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> All vehicles should have their brake fluid removed and fresh fluid put in every 5 years. True or False ?


Technically true. I have never done this, ever. So I don't know.


----------



## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

I was a convert a number of years ago when my truck blew a rusted brake line. I was just pulling in the lane after a long trip with a horse trailer so felt pretty lucky.

I do my bike every two years. It takes me about half an hour using Speedbleeders.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> All vehicles should have their brake fluid removed and fresh fluid put in every 5 years. True or False ?


OP ask for personal experiences when possible. So, if you experience difficulty getting the vehicle to begin forward motion on level ground in shallow snow or on ice the front brake lines may not be releasing the pads completely because of interior brake hose deterioration at one or both front wheels. Been there done that in a 10 year old pickum up truck.

It probably doesn't help brake wear or mileage any either.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Please feel free to add your own along the way, if you want. I need to learn more about my maintenance and repairs that I do on my wife's car ...and mine.
> 
> Please support your reply with your own known experiences, if possible. I'll start out with a popular one. :biggrin2:
> 
> ...




Psssst, Senior ^^^^^^^^ :smile: :wink2:


----------



## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> All vehicles should have their brake fluid removed and fresh fluid put in every 5 years. True or False ?


You should, because brake fluid is hygroscopic meaning it absorbs water. Water then causes corrosion in the system, and can cause boiling of the fluid at high temperatures, resulting in brake fade and later on air in the lines diminishing brake performance.

That said, if you keep the original fluid in there, it will work on an average vehicle for a long time. If you do a lot of towing or have a performance car, I would change it more frequently.


----------

