# Toilet flange on concrete floor



## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

The flange sits on top of the finished floor.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Missouri Bound said:


> The flange sits on top of the finished floor.


This is debate-able.


To the OP : 

Sounds like you just have a cast iron pipe sticking up that was cut flush with the concrete, and then bolts were sunk into the concrete to hold the toilet down?

How much do you plan on raising the floor?


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

as alan said you get many ideas on this ..I like to set flange on finish floor after tile....


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

If the bolts coming out of the concrete are still solidly in place and long enough then they can be used as-is. You can get an "extension flange" to fit in the existing drain opening and fit over the existing bolts if the toilet bottom plus wax ring doesn't reach.


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## PlumbDumb (Jan 30, 2012)

Can we see pictures of this franken-flange setup you have? Is the "toilet opening" a cast iron/pvc waste line? Or whats left of a lead bend? It could be a lead bend which had it's flange ripped off, then someone cemented in franken-bolts. Without seeing what your describing sounds dicey, especially if your laying a nice new floor down. Nothing worse then having to chop your new floor a year later.


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## MigitLuver (Jan 20, 2012)

There is one bolt still sticking out of the floor. The other broke off. It is a PVC pipe and yes, it is cut off flush with the floor. I will try to post the pic.


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## MigitLuver (Jan 20, 2012)

I think the photo is attached. The concrete dips slightly around the drain hole. You can see the spot on the left of the hole where the broken bolt is.


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## PlumbDumb (Jan 30, 2012)

It would be funny to find out it was an actual toilet flange, with bolts in it, that someone skim coated with cement. Maybe they raised the floor up and left the old flange.

You could fix this one of 2 ways. Or both if the first leaks.

Home Depot has these "homeowner special" pvc toilet flanges. Basically you shove it into the inside diameter of a 3" waste line, and it flairs out into a standard flange. In the extra space around the flange (the "track" the bolts slide around), you drill for a molly on each side and screw the flange down to the floor (or if your particular flange has screw holes, molly through them). Make sure your not drilling into a pipe below. 

For this to work, you cant build up the rough floor too high and keep the pipe out of the new flange's reach, when you drop it down on top of the finished floor and into the pipe.

What are your plans for the floor?


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## MigitLuver (Jan 20, 2012)

I only need a very thin layer of self-leveler. Just enough to fill the divots and keep any old mortar from allowing the tile to lay flat. I'd say 1/8" - 1/4"


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## PlumbDumb (Jan 30, 2012)

MigitLuver said:


> I only need a very thin layer of self-leveler. Just enough to fill the divots and keep any old mortar from allowing the tile to lay flat. I'd say 1/8" - 1/4"


You should be ok with that inside diameter flange. Before you commit to this way you should get the flange first to 
1) make sure you can get one in your area
and 2) you can measure the actual piece that will stick into the pipe, and you can figure out if your higher floor will be too high.


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## MigitLuver (Jan 20, 2012)

Ok, I put in the flange. The opening was slightly too narrow so I used my utility knife to taper the top. I pushed the flange down and used Tapcon screws to secure it to the floor. I poured self level and that will hopefully help seal/keep it secure. I installed the toilet last night and it has the very slightest of unbalance but only if I push down on the back of the tank. When you sit on the seat it feels very stable. Have not used it due to the tub faucet needs to be replaced so I can turn water on to bathroom. Thank you so much for all the help and ideas.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

On going debate....My vote is bottom side of flange on FINISHED floor.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

MigitLuver said:


> I installed the toilet last night and it has the very slightest of unbalance but only if I push down on the back of the tank.


You needed to test fit the toilet and correct all imbalance before putting in the wax ring.

Any imbalance will squish the wax ring a little more than it should be and the ring does not spring back so it will leak.


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## MigitLuver (Jan 20, 2012)

I didn't install the flange ON the tile but it seems very secure. I had already installed with wax ring and have been using it without leaks. I guess if it ends up leaking I'll just replace wax ring and shim the toilet at that time. It doesn't rock at all when you sit on it.


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