# Where to disconnect tail light connector(s)?



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Same old 92' Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6. I am planning on removing the box on my truck to replace the in-tank fuel pump. I'll need to disconnect the tail light harness.

There is only one wire bundle from the front of the vehicle where it then intersects with another wire bundle that trails to both tail light assemblies.

So these two wire bundles intersect in a sort of crooked T-shape. I included a photo of the connector

So I am thinking I just need to disconnect the connector in the photo at this T-intersection. Then this disconnects everything including license plate light. Does this make sense? I only have tail lights and license plate lights.

Otherwise I assume there are other connectors right behind the tail light assemblies?

There are no other rear lighting wire bundles under there. I checked thoroughly.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I think you have it. 
In this video right around 120, he lifts the box a little reaches under and unplugs it.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hi Neal,

You're video is not visible right now. Maybe temporary website or network issue. I'll try it later.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> Hi Neal,
> 
> You're video is not visible right now. Maybe temporary website or network issue. I'll try it later.


 He takes the two back wheels off and unbolts the box and then lifts it at the back about left corner and unplugs the wires and then picks up one side at time from the back corners and slides in a 4x4 and just slides it back on the 4x4s. He does it all by himself.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

No ground straps for the box? I assume by "tail lights" you include brakes, signals, back-up lights. Is the fuel gauge sending unit (and fuel pump, depending) part of this bundle or separate?


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

That would be correct for a 96 Nissan, even looks the same. Unplugging that gets everything. As mentioned above there may be an additional body ground somewhere.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hey Neal, Thanks for your commentary on the video. That definitely was more helpful than the video itself. I did some work on it today.


- removed box mounting bolts
- disconnected battery
- released fuel system pressure

-removed filler neck screws
-located and disconnected tail light wiring bundle, which only involved one central connector.
Tested and tail lights do not come on.



I looked under the box for a long time. I could not find a ground strap. But there could be one. _How will I know?_ My make/model is at beginning of thread.


To answer one of the questions. I don't see how the fuel gauge sending unit would be part of the tail light wiring bundle which is a separate bundle in the back of the box which detaches from the main wiring bundle


One thing I've already learned, is that I have to be careful not too pinch any wiring bundles when lifting the box.


I'm doing this myself. I'm not sure how I will lift the box. I'll probably do a variation of the guy's method in Neal's video. I need to get this done tomorrow.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Sorry that I missed this yesterday, I had to search your profile for recent posts by you.

The box is probably grounded by being bolted to the frame, it's a Ford, they tend to be simple. My favorite kind.

Anyway , lifting is easiest with a hoist, but if you don't have one, try to lift it one corner at a time, and block each corner securely. 

How high do you need to lift it?

lift each a couple of three inches, and block it, move to another corner lift the same height, block it up, move to the third corner, lift it the same distance, block securely, move to last corner, lift and repeat. 

Now that you have lifted it stage one, repeat the process until you have the box as high as needed. Around and around 2-3 inches at a time. 

This assures that you don't TWEAK the box out of square, so that it will go back on correctly. 

Can I ask why you need to remove the box?

If just to get to the gas tank, you are approaching the gauge repair wrong. :wink2:


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. Thanks Ed.


I am removing the box to replace the in-tank fuel pump. I'm not sure how much I need to lift the box. I hope I have enough objects or 'blocks' lying around the garage to prop up the box.The method you prescribe is clever. But I also might want to slide the tank back some. Wouldn't take much since fuel pump connection is almost right up against the passenger cab.



I wonder if I should spray the fuel pump to tank locking ring with PB Blaster? Residue wouldn't be good if it seeped into the gasoline.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

It is much easier, to drop the tank from the frame, then do the work. 

Unless they did something stupid, and bolted it in from the topside. 

I have taken a 2X4 stud, and cut it up into 12-16 6" pieces to use as blocks to do this. use a 2.5 inch deck screw in each successive block on the pile to keep them in one piece when adding blocking stages. 

This way they cannot slip apart, and crash the whole thing onto you or the driveway. 

But the tank should be either bolted from the bottom, or suspended by straps to support it. 

I would need to look at one , or maybe look into a repair manual to be sure. 

Will try to remember early in the AM, to see if I have a manual for your Ranger, I'm pretty sure that I do, but at the moment it would be in another room, and I've already removed my leg for the night. 

And you know that a person with a 10 " shorter leg than the other, only goes in circles :biggrin2:

If you don't need to remove the box, I would not.

And yes you must clean all the dirt, corrosion, and detritus from around the opening, before you even attempt to slip the locking ring around to remove the gauge, and pump. 


ED


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

My manual states to drop the tank, and replace the gauge / pump assembly , I tried to access one for you from Chilton's online, but they want a $30.00 yearly subscription to their stuff before allowing me access. 

I am old school and prefer a paper copy in hand. 

One time cost and it lasts forever, if taken care of. 

Unless you have a very good reason to remove the box to do this, I will advise you to drop the tank instead, it's much easier. 

Another pointer that I have stored in my brain.

Most of these early ford vehicles have a fuel disconnect relay under the dash on the passengers side, that will trip and disconnect power to the fuel pump, if there has been even a slight bump of the front bumper, did you happen to get into a slight fender bender, and trip this relay, causing you to believe that the fuel pump has failed?

If so, look up under the dash on the passengers side, for a relay button to push back on, to reactivate the fuel pump power. 


As I said, my manual states to DROP the tank to access the gauge/ pump assembly.

Much easier than removing the box. 

And your local library should have access to a manual that you can copy pages from to do repairs with, and many libraries get free subscriptions to Chilton's , so it might be advantageous for you to seek a manual at your local library. 

ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

It's not a relay. I already did the fuel pump troubleshooting. And I'm already into the work. So it would be more trouble for me to back-up and start a new procedure. I'll report back sometime today. Thanks, Ed


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Rangerxlt said:


> It's not a relay. I already did the fuel pump troubleshooting. And I'm already into the work. So it would be more trouble for me to back-up and start a new procedure. I'll report back sometime today. Thanks, Ed


Please do, I'm curious .


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Most opinions I've heard seem to say lifting box or a portion of it is easier. But some say dropping tank is easier. Easier either way if I had an assistant.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I think I would be sliding the box back couple feet, lowering the tank would be a nightmare.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> I think I would be sliding the box back couple feet, lowering the tank would be a nightmare.


No it's not, I have done it several times, and never once had to remove any vehicle body parts. 

ED


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> No it's not, I have done it several times, and never once had to remove any vehicle body parts.
> 
> ED


I would watch the videos on both ways first. :wink2:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> I would watch the videos on both ways first. :wink2:


And videos are not edited to erase the hassles?

I'm shocked that UTOOBERS are honest. :wink2::devil3::vs_smirk:


ED


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> And videos are not edited to erase the hassles?
> 
> I'm shocked that UTOOBERS are honest. :wink2::devil3::vs_smirk:
> 
> ...


When you google it you can find many that move the box in many ways, I have not seen one that dropped the tank. All the hose connections look to be tight and would be a hassle if you can't see them and you have to deal with the fuel too.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Neal: It's 6 of one, and half a dozen of the other. 

Both ways are a hassle, I just prefer to do mechanical work, not body work. 

And he said that he already has a start on the box removal.

If I were going to try to remove the box, I would fabricate myself 4 risers with rollers on them, and lift the box up an inch or so, bolt my 4 risers, to the frame, between the box and frame, then let it down on the rollers, and it will be easy to move the box back to get to the tank top. 

But I ain't he, and I don't know what his mechanical abilities are, ( I can speculate), So all I can do is make suggestions that I know work. 

As you do often. 

This ain't a competition, to see who can #$%% the farthest, nor is it the CBR, where many others go to start a disagreement . 


Because they are bored. 

I await his report back on the adventure, and wish him the best of luck with it.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I was able move the box and install the fuel pump. While sitting on the garage floor, I lifted the bed with one arm,and inserted a 2X4 between box and frame. I did this for each side to use as a sled. Then I just pulled back the box till the fuel pump connection came into view


But I am still having same starting problems as before. I was able to start the engine after several attempts.



-Fuse is ok
-Relays click. Was recently replaced anyway
-But I don't hear the fuel pump humming unless I make several attempts. The when it 'hums' engine starts.


I noticed the fuel pump pigtail connector (from wiring harness in engine compartment) is in bad shape where the barrels push onto the pins. I attached a picture. It's the thing with the orange, yellow, red, and black wires. Do all the auto parts store sell these? Do I have to solder each wire?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Those Ford modular plugs come apart, and you can replace the modular plug without cutting any wire. 

There should be a "keeper spacer, inside the barrel end, that pulls out with a little screwdriver, and then the wires will slip out of the remains. 

Show me a picture of the modular plug, unplugged, looking into the barrels. 

The hardest part will be getting the wires back in proper arrangement, make yourself a map, on a sheet of paper, designating which color wire goes into which hole, and follow it to rebuild the new modular plug. 

When those modular plugs get loose, you get intermittent operations, so maybe this is the only problem there was.

ED 

Yes the modular plugs are available at the better parts stores.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ahh...................I was wondering about that. So when I remove the keeper with a screw driver, do I pull out the four little square modules from the housing........................or do the wires come out of the four little square modules which stay attached to the housing?


So no cutting of wires, and no soldering needed?


I can't sent you a photo. I put everything back together temporarily. It's my only vehicle, and if I can start it intermittently, I can use use it to get to work and buy parts.


But if it helps, all you can see are 4 barrels with damaged inside plastic housing. Almost looks melted with pieces broken off?


I'm looking online for the part now


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would need to see it, to be sure how it comes apart, but do know that there should be no wire cutting needed, to replace the modular plug housing.

Just a suggestion, some will go to a junk yard, and cut one from a "donor", and try to splice it into their unit.

Depending on their wiring skills, they have success, or not. 

I prefer to DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, but others " you know". :vs_laugh:

For temporary you might be able to wrap some BLACK tape around it tightly, to keep the barrels contacting the pins in the other half, if you want to "rig" it until you get the new parts. 

Because if driving and you hit a bump, it will disconnect, and you are stopped dead, until you make connection again.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I think I found it, Ed. It's Standard Motor Products part# S2255 on Rock Auto. This looks just like my old one. But no colored wires. Can you take a look at their website photos? This one has a pigtail and butt connectors. Are you sure mine uses a modular connector?


Disregard the attached photo.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Rangerxlt said:


> I think I found it, Ed. It's Standard Motor Products part# S2255 on Rock Auto. This looks just like my old one. But no colored wires. Can you take a look at their website photos? This one has a pigtail and butt connectors. Are you sure mine uses a modular connector?
> 
> 
> Disregard the attached photo.


 I took your (# , description), and searched e-bay, and got this link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-M...910530&hash=item591dab547a:g:J34AAOSwmtJXZsYt

This is similar to your first picture. 

Sure looks like Ford used different connectors than I was describing.

It looks as if these you need to splice in to your existing harness, I would use Crimp on BUTT CONNECTORS myself, then tape the things well to prevent any water from penetrating. 

Did your truck ever get a brush fire under it, or some chemical spill to decay your plug that way. 

Not going to be as simple as the Ford modules that I have repaired on earlier vehicles, but still easy enough if you have experience with crimping butt connectors, into vehicle wiring.

I kinda wish that I lived nearby to drop over and examine this in person, but things are what they are.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

It's the original part from 1992. And over time, the extreme Arizona heat can 'soften up' connectors. Same thing happened with my alternator connector

But now that you mentioned it, I supposed spillage from gasoline could have contributed to the connector damage. I had a leaky fuel filler neck some years ago. 

Fortunately, I taught myself crimping before. I have the tool and supplies. I'm picking up the part tomorrow and I'll get back on it this weekend

Ed always good talking to you. I hope you don't mind if I need to ask a question later this week.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Rangerxlt said:


> It's the original part from 1992. And over time, the extreme Arizona heat can 'soften up' connectors. Same thing happened with my alternator connector
> 
> But now that you mentioned it, I supposed spillage from gasoline could have contributed to the connector damage. I had a leaky fuel filler neck some years ago.
> 
> ...


 I had a new thought on the crimping, before you crimp the new in, slip a Heat Shrink Tube, on each wire, then do the crimping, and SHRINK the tubing over the butt connectors, to further insulate them from water damage. 

I have to do that here, because snow and Ice builds up under the vehicles, and corrodes the connectors. 

And it is always a pleasure helping out, where appreciation is shown. :wink2:

I was thinking that you were somewhere near the Gulf Coast, and driving in the ocean waves on the beaches will surely corrode the vehicle, and it's wiring. 

ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Haa....................Yeah I learned my lesson in the past. Remember to slip on heat shrink tubing BEFORE you crimp. But thanks for the reminder. I shrink heat shrink tubing with a hot air blow dryer.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

This repair is done. A word of advice to those that have never moved a pick-up box. This was my first time. Depending on your tail light wiring, lifting or shifting the box could pinch or crush a wire bundle. So be careful. This happened to me. But my tail lights still work. Maybe the split loom tubing protected it.I also had to move the box without any help. Resolved.Thank You.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Interesting thread. I have only done this job once on a 1994 Chevy S10 v6 4x4 pickup. In that case I dropped the tank instead of raising the box. In my case I was aided a bit by the fact that the pump was still working marginally so I was able to drive it until the gas was nearly gone which made the tank easier to handle. Is there a consensus on which method is generally preferable?


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Which method is preferable? I'm not sure. I have to tell you, when I was balancing that box with one arm and trying to free a pinched, kinked wire bundle with the other arm, I said some rarely used expletives normally reserved for special occasions like that repair.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Why don't they have an access panel in the floor of the box?


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

That would make too much sense! I know some folks with 4th gen Camaros who cut the floor in the hatch area to gain access instead of dropping the tank, which required a lot of other R&R just to get at it. 



Nealtw said:


> Why don't they have an access panel in the floor of the box?


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I'll probably cut an access panel in my pick-up box


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

raylo32 said:


> That would make too much sense! I know some folks with 4th gen Camaros who cut the floor in the hatch area to gain access instead of dropping the tank, which required a lot of other R&R just to get at it.


 In the eighties I had a little Buick Skyhawk, like a Vaga with horse power. 

Some before me put a hole in the back, it almost look factor.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Why every car doesn't have an access panel is a mystery. It is such a common sense idea. If my Navigator's pump goes out, the tank has to come down. Just a stupid design.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> Why every car doesn't have an access panel is a mystery. It is such a common sense idea. If my Navigator's pump goes out, the tank has to come down. Just a stupid design.


The pump never quits when the tank is empty, it's some kind of law.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Just one of many corollaries to Murphy's Law. 



Nealtw said:


> The pump never quits when the tank is empty, it's some kind of law.


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