# Table Saw



## Mstrlucky74 (Jan 19, 2013)

I've been going more and more DIY stuff and been buying tools and equipment here and there. Is a table saw a must have?


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## curtd (Oct 25, 2013)

If you want to rip (say a 6" width board) down to (say to 3" width) then yeah it's necessary.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Let's just say a table saw is convenient...


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

ron45 said:


> Let's just say a table saw is convenient...


Kind of accurate.

For the DIY'r, it's a step up in accuracy. If you start doing cabinet and/or furniture building, it's hard to get the accuracy you need with a circular saw. You can use a rip guide with that circular saw....but....the cut will not be quite as straight.

And with a table saw, you can really pump out parts.....especially if your cutting a lot of panels the same exact width.


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## Syberia (Jan 24, 2014)

Whenever I need a long straight cut, I go directly to the table saw. I own a circular saw for those cuts that would be unfeasible on the table saw, but I hate using it and can never get it to cut straight.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

ron45 said:


> Let's just say a table saw is convenient...


A table saw is the most versatile, most used tool in my shop. If someone was going to equip a shop and ask my the first thing they should buy I would say a good table saw without any hesitation.


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## Mstrlucky74 (Jan 19, 2013)

Thanks guys. I might get the Harbor Freight one. It's on sale for $119 and the only other brand close to it is a Ryobi which I heard is crap. To be honest I might use it 3-4 times a years and do about 80 rips total.


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## drelldrell (May 12, 2014)

Just my opinion, but I am not a fan of buying any type of precision tool like a table saw from Harbor Freight. I bought a Ridgid table saw from Home Depot and like it a ton. Almost bought a 10" Craftsman from Sears, which is something you should at least entertain. I know Craftsman is not what it use to be in terms of long-lasting durability, but its better than Harbor Freight.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

The main use for a table saw is ripping, cross cutting comes next if you do not own a chop or sliding saw. There are a number of pieces that have to work together to get a decent rip. First, the table has to be flat. On cheap saws, often made of cast steel, the table is not flat, which leads to all sorts of problems when ripping.

Second, the fence needs to be parallel to the blade. I own an old, moderately decent Craftsman table saw, and it takes a lot of effort to get the fence parallel to the blade. I need to use a measuring block each time. With a better saw, the fence aligns correctly and locks, and you can do a quick check to be sure.

The blade needs to be perpendicular to the table in the 0 degree position. On cheap saws, the blade tends to wobble, or lose alignment, resulting in out of square rips. Killer for furniture making. At least with the Craftsman, it is perfectly square to the table in the 0 degree position. It is useful if the gage for bevelling is accurate, but on a cheap saw this is unlikely, so you will need to check and align the saw each time you need to make a bevel, and recheck the saw when you return the blade to the 0 position.

Last point, very important, are the guards. Cheap saws often come with an awkward blade guard, which can make certain types of cuts (like thin rips) impossible. I am NOT ADVOCATING THIS for you, but I removed the guard on the Craftsman table saw years ago. Many people who use their table saws a lot remove the guard. Even if you leave the guard in place, you still need to build yourself a variety of push sticks and jigs for safe ripping and cross cutting. I have at least a dozen books on woodworking, and several of them discuss at length jigs and fixtures for the tablesaw, most of which are designed to improve safety. My greatest concern witha cheap tablesaw is that it could be more dangerous than a decent saw, if the blade wobbles, or the fence is loose, of the table is not flat, each of these factors can require you to force a piece of wood through the saw, which is always dangerous. Be careful with this tool, it demands respect.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

One of the main things about a table saw is precision. A fence that is off by as little as a degree over the length of a long piece can not only ruin the piece but can be dangerous as well. As it can jam between the blade and the fence causing kickback. This is something to be watchful of when purchasing.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I've seen so many ( mostly Craftsman ) table saws for sale at auctions that were never operated the way the instruction manual read and the seller just got disgusted at the fence system and sold it. Most sold from 50 -125 bucks and they were good V-belt driven saws with some rust from neglect.

I doubt the manual was never read because after the initial adjustment was made all it took to make the fence parallel to the miter slots after every move was to push on the fence operator end to square it to the bar then lock it. 

To keep the manual in good condition, mount a length of 2" pvc pipe somewhere on the underneath side of the saw, roll the manual and insert it in the pipe. 2 end caps will keep the mice out.


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

I have a Craftsman saw similar to this model and I use it all the time. It made not be the best in the world but for what i do, it works fine. What I love is the ability to use it as a router table. 

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10in...p-00914258000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4


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## drelldrell (May 12, 2014)

landfillwizard said:


> What I love is the ability to use it as a router table.
> 
> http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10in...p-00914258000P?prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=G4


How are you able to do this?


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## Cullen (Dec 11, 2014)

SeniorSitizen said:


> To keep the manual in good condition, mount a length of 2" pvc pipe somewhere on the underneath side of the saw, roll the manual and insert it in the pipe. 2 end caps will keep the mice out.


That's some good thinking there. Thanks for the tip.


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

Sorry! I posted the wrong picture of my table saw. If you look to the right of the blade you can see where you attach the router. I use the fence with the router to get good datos. The fence also comes with attachment to use as sacrificial pieces for using a router like a shaper. 

http://homehdwallpaper.biz/craftsman-portable-table-saw/craftsman-portable-table-saw-2/


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

A review from Lumberjocks:

http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/19


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## Michael L (Jan 15, 2015)

I am also just getting into woodworking. The first tool I got was a miter saw, mainly because it was what I needed at the time. The second was a table saw. Like you, I won't be using it daily, but has been a great addition to my growing list of equipment!

I got a Skil brand from Lowes when they were on sale shortly before Christmas ($119 I think). Replaced the blade with a better version, READ THE MANUAL, adjusted the fence and have used it for a number of projects. I recheck the alignment of the fence periodically; so far, so good...

I also built a cross cut sled for it so I can cut boards bigger than my miter saw will handle. 

I agree that using a circular saw is a pain!!! If I can use the table saw I will....


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

"Most Important Tool" is a whole new conversation.

If I look at my batch of tools....the cordless drill would be first....and by far gets the most use. In the realm of 'important'....it's a toss up between the pocket hole cutter and biscuit cutter. A circular saw will handle most tasks....assuming accuracy is not a big issue.

But when you start to talk about accuracy and quality of workmanship, there is not one tool at the top of the list. Wood working is the epitome of 'team work' on the part of the tools.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If you want a craftsman saw look on Craigs List probably 60 to 70% of the tools on there are craftsman so you can get one really cheap.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

I also took the guards and splitters/anti kiCkback things off of mine...until I grabbed the dewalt portable ten inch which comes with a riving knife instead of a splitter. World of difference!!

Definate get one with riving knife!! Ron


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## Inspector102 (Dec 4, 2014)

Another thing to consider is the long term use of the table saw. Make sure the saw has the spindle capacity to accept a set of stack dado cutters. Too many saws have a short shaft and will not accept anything other than a single blade. This normally will cost a little bit more because the motor will also be slightly stronger, but worth considering in my opinion.


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## Cullen (Dec 11, 2014)

Inspector102 said:


> Make sure the saw has the spindle capacity to accept a set of stack dado cutters.


I have been pondering on this. Is this as important if there is a router/router table in the shop as well?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Cullen said:


> I have been pondering on this. Is this as important if there is a router/router table in the shop as well?


If you like making dadoes with a router, and set up to do so, it isn't very important. If you ever attempt sell the saw without dado capability it may become a factor.


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## Cullen (Dec 11, 2014)

SeniorSitizen said:


> If you like making dadoes with a router, and set up to do so, it isn't very important. If you ever attempt sell the saw without dado capability it may become a factor.


Good to know on the first point, and the second point makes sense. 

Thank you for your reply.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Mstrlucky74 said:


> Thanks guys. I might get the Harbor Freight one. It's on sale for $119 and the only other brand close to it is a Ryobi which I heard is crap. To be honest I might use it 3-4 times a years and do about 80 rips total.


I have heard the same reference as to Royabe being krap.... only from tradesman though.... so I think for your use, you may not have a fair evaluation.

I've been working on both my kids homes in Ca... and can't take all my tools.

At my daughters, I got a top end Royabe from Craigslist.... and it honestly was cabinet quality.... 24+ rip (both sides) and a dead accurate fence (kinda looks like a Bessemer). Riveing knife, great rollers on its stand. Not really a production saw...as a little underpowered direct drive... but I thought a great saw.... I do not know it's retail... I got it very little used for $200. It is not job site portable, but very conventient for relocating in a shop or garage.

Then, just this Xmas, my son's cast table saw was at another job site, and we borrowed his friends cheopo portable Royabe table saw (I think Jon said he got it on sale for 150). *I was surprized......*

It was very portable, folded up very small tight... could rip 24+... riving knife with detachable anti-kickback hooks. The fence was pretty OK... but we had to double check it parellelism... but it locked nice and tight. It had a sliding cross cut table... which I never used anyway. Yes it is not a production saw... could do cabinate work with care... but I honestly thought a great value for the homeowner handyman who takes his time doing things.

I'd be interested if others have tried trheir portable tools.... might be good backup tools...

Best

Peter


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