# Basement "coffered" ceilings... DIY wood "suspended" ceilings



## MOA_Chaser (Feb 20, 2017)

I am completely finishing my basement. It is a foreclosure and a water line freeze/break required the entire basement to be gutted so it's basically starting over except for the studs.

Previously, it had a 2x2 suspended ceiling. Typical metal frame with acoustic tiles. I would like to do something different, if at all possible, to get away from the typical suspended ceiling look.

I found this link online and I love the whole idea. It looks like a finished ceiling vs a suspended ceiling, if a "tile" gets damaged I can just get a piece of drywall, paint it and replace it without worrying whether they discontinued my acoustic tile pattern.

Coffered Ceilings with Hidden Access



I still need to figure out exactly how I would want to mount the 2x4s to the walls securely, but I want to make sure I'm thinking about everything before I fully commit. 

First question... I would like to get away from the typical 2x2 or 2x4 light boxes that you find in suspended ceilings. Would there be any issue with sagging if I put recessed LED lights on the movable panels, or should any panels with lights be screwed down and secured around the edges to avoid sagging? 

Let's assume 1/2" drywall. How big (panel size) could I expect to go before I would have to worry about the panels sagging, even if just for the panels without the lights?

Any other pitfalls that you can think of with this design?


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Never seen it before but I do like.


2x4 panels would be about the largest I would want to deal with. That would have it supported @ about 24" CC.


I would hang lights off the wood. Assuming can lites, they have an adjustment factor UP + down; not sure how much.



No pitfalls that come to mind right now but one may pop into my head later.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If you do a light weight framework you can still support it with wires or straps from the floor above.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

You will need a complete crosshatch of framing in order to support the 1x lumber, and consequently the sheetrock. Keep in mind the span factor of your framing lumber, too, as 2x4's may not span the width you need, and couple that with the perlins attached to it, you may need to upgrade the cross hatch to 2x6's.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I wouldn't do that with sheetrock personally. I'd want a totally smooth paint job which is really hard on sheetrock I hear. I'd use painted sanded/hardwood plywood, or maybe even PVC sheets if there was an extruder company anywhere near by/shipping didn't kill me.

If I did it with sheetrock I'd use the thickest [fireproof?] stuff I could find. 

As for sagging, I'd think you could use those between the joists arm hanger cans - https://www.homedepot.com/p/EnviroL...e-Trim-Kit-3000k-6-Pack-K6731AW30-6/207205589 
That way it wouldn't sag because the lights would be supported by the joists rather than the panel. 

Either way, I'd probably want the panels to be screwed down where the lights were so the trim ring/paint didn't get messed up.


In my kitchen I'm doing a drop ceiling. We were originally going to do these foam panel inserts - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014X71OZ...olid=1KKM3IO4RQ5J4&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I'm pretty sure I saw ones that were smooth (rather than the "raised panel" look) however, I don't know that those could be used with recessed lighting or not (we are doing 2x2 LED panels and LED rounds w/tin drop in tiles)


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

So...my question would be, with that little amount of headspace over the support slats, how do you get a new panel in there? Your typical drop ceiling has more headspace so you can angle the panels in, but this has near zero.


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## MOA_Chaser (Feb 20, 2017)

I did a little more research, and I found 2x4 perfectly smooth, anti-sag ceiling tiles. I think I'll go that route, since that will save a LOT of weight over drywall with the same effect.


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## MOA_Chaser (Feb 20, 2017)

huesmann said:


> So...my question would be, with that little amount of headspace over the support slats, how do you get a new panel in there? Your typical drop ceiling has more headspace so you can angle the panels in, but this has near zero.


If you look closely at how this is made, they aren't affixing the 2x4 framework to the joists above. They are building a separate frame below. I am planning on putting the ceiling at the same level that my suspended ceiling was before.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

I like it.


Personally, I would use 1x4's for the grid with a small rabbet edge, installing them in the same manner as a drop ceiling, and using1/4" sheet rock, or as you've mentioned, some some smooth face drop in panels.


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## MOA_Chaser (Feb 20, 2017)

ktkelly said:


> I like it.
> 
> 
> Personally, I would use 1x4's for the grid with a small rabbet edge, installing them in the same manner as a drop ceiling, and using1/4" sheet rock, or as you've mentioned, some some smooth face drop in panels.


Yes I just found another article that suggested 1x4s; I think that would look as good. One person did mention though, that he had a friend that actually just used regular metal T-bar grids and attached the 1x4s directly to the metal grid. Of course you could put the T-bars a bit further apart than normal, since you aren't limited to the narrow lips of the T-bars.

I suppose if you used heavier gauge wire to suspend the ceiling T-bars, it should hold it fine...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would start with a finish grade 2x4 and cut the top corners making it a squat upside down T and lap the other pieces on to them.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I did something similar on a bath at a client's request, using 1x3 cedar and making a Tee with another 1x3 for rigidity. I was only spanning 6', so it didn't require the support that I think the OP will require. I used eyelets and cable right in the middle just to feel warm and fuzzy about it. The panels in this bath were of T&G planks glued in the spline to keep them as a panel.


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