# Drywall joints without tape?



## The Creator (Oct 30, 2018)

Hi, I need to make a screen for my projector. I will be making the frame of either 2x3/1x3/etc. lumber or steel studs. I want the surface to be rigid, flat and lightweight as possible. This will be a 120" diagonal screen (105" x 59") so that rules out single piece sheet goods without special ordering and paying a ton of money. I was thinking of using 1/4" drywall and where pieces come together leaving a 1/16 to 1/8 gap and filling in with hot mud with no tape. Then once it dries, I'll sand, primer, paint. Do you think this will work? I know it wouldn't work for walls in a house because all houses move, but this will be an independent frame hung on the wall like a giant painting.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I would use tape. Is there some reason you don't want to tape the joint?


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## chiraldude (Nov 16, 2013)

If by hot mud you mean the setting plaster type, I think that would be more likely to crack than regular mud. (more brittle) Think about different materials to join the seams besides mud. Caulk for example.
One way to link everything together would be to cover the whole thing in a continuous sheet of paper using wallpaper paste after you mud the joints. A quick search turned up the link below but if you found a 6' roll of kraft paper, that would probably work too. 
https://www.shindigz.com/white-seamless-paper/p/BGSPL9-WHI?gclid=Cj0KCQjwguDeBRDCARIsAGxuU8ZiK3S3GVkt73M9xS6IlU75hKB8_q6plV-1cI7SWJbN1jJKmejsK1IaAv81EALw_wcB


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would use thicker like 5/8 so it doesn't get wavy when you apply it. 10 ft sheets and tape it. If you don't think you can get one side joist smooth get help.


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## chiraldude (Nov 16, 2013)

I agree that getting the waves out will be a challenge. You could add some more framing pieces (thinner) for support. Use glue to hold it in place not screws. 
Another alternate idea would be to try Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic panels instead of drywall. Would still need to cover the joints but much lighter.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-White-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Plastic-FRP-Wall-Panel/3446544?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA_ONLY-_-Millwork-_-SosInteriorWallPanels-_-3446544:&CAWELAID=&kpid=3446544&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=go_625856385_34614897910_111134660230_aud-299487635210la-313861740847_c_9019925&gclid=Cj0KCQjwguDeBRDCARIsAGxuU8bTg0RolOmkrCXUU0dc_YQ3EMOiyrWb3K7_WSGji51yStYcj9H0g4EaAgZLEALw_wcB


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I would guess that with out taping the seam you have nearly a zero percent chance of not seeing the crack a short time after it dries. And if you are taking the time to mud the joint there is no reason not to use tape. Try Fiba-Fuse tape, it sets in good without the next day lifting that plagues newbie drywallers.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If you dig around and find a cabinet factory or shop, they can get MDF and particle board in 5 x 10 sheets and you can buy white laminate, Willsonart, Formica stc.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

for the time it took you to write your question here,
you could have already applied paper or fiberglass tape,
mudded it and waiting on the stuff to dry.
yes - taping a seam is always the best choice.

back in my day - we just hung up a sheet.

.

.


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## czizzi (May 28, 2018)

First time you go to move it, the joint will crack out. Even taping, with 1/4" material, will be tough to keep it solid. The frame is only as strong as what is holding it in place. So, like others have mentioned, go with a thicker drywall material.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I too suggest that you get a single sheet of Formica, It comes in a matte finish, that won't glare as bad as a glossy one, and still be a good projection screen. 

Or a Canvas sheet, stretched tight. 


ED


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## The Creator (Oct 30, 2018)

Thank you everyone for the replies. 




joed said:


> I would use tape. Is there some reason you don't want to tape the joint?


 Yes, I have no experience drywalling, and getting a flat surface would be much more achievable if I'm just filling in a "crack" with mud, as opposed to creating a raised spot (the tape) and feathering it out. Also, Even for a pro, no matter how good you are at feathering it out, ultimately you're still creating a raised spot. That obviously works fine for building a wall, but a projector screen with bright light shining on it and movement will highlight any imperfections more so than just looking at a wall. As I understand it, homes with lots of natural light and non textured drywall, require a skim coat to adequately hide the seem. 



Nealtw said:


> If you dig around and find a cabinet factory or shop, they can get MDF and particle board in 5 x 10 sheets and you can buy white laminate, Willsonart, Formica stc.


 MDF is WAY to heavy, especially considering at that size, I believe it is only available in 3/4". I'll have to check around about the particle board but it depends on thickness and weight. I've looked into laminates, it is much more costly. Might be what I end up doing though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The Creator said:


> Yes, I have no experience drywalling, and getting a flat surface would be much more achievable if I'm just filling in a "crack" with mud, as opposed to creating a raised spot (the tape) and feathering it out. Also, Even for a pro, no matter how good you are at feathering it out, ultimately you're still creating a raised spot. That obviously works fine for building a wall, but a projector screen with bright light shining on it and movement will highlight any imperfections more so than just looking at a wall. As I understand it, homes with lots of natural light and non textured drywall, require a skim coat to adequately hide the seem.
> 
> MDF is WAY to heavy, especially considering at that size, I believe it is only available in 3/4". I'll have to check around about the particle board but it depends on thickness and weight


 The cupboard shops use 1/2 and 5/8 particle board in the big sheet.
I used to bring it in for a plywood store because it is not available for a retail stores, or wasn't anyway.


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## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

For 300 bucks you can get a 120" high contrast grey screen with a frame from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4WT6QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bTy2Bb5CMGDF1 It will be a lot less frustration and hassle, not to mention weight...
Another option is to build your own frame and stretch material across it, something like this- https://thedisplayoutlet.com/produc...Ch15XA8wEAQYBCABEgJdq_D_BwE&variant=473596593 for 60 bucks w/ free shipping. You'll still need flocking tape for a non reflective black border with this.
These were just quick searches so I recommend looking around for some more options, especially if you're going for the diy frame with bulk material idea. Unless you have a light-controlled room designed for a pj screen, high contrast grey is what you should be considering. Another option is an acoustically transparent screen that you can place your speakers behind to make for a more aesthetically clean install.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You say " no experience with drywall", 

Sheetrock factory edges are slightly beveled, to allow the tape and mud to fill in the slight valley created when they are butted together, So I suggest that you BUTT two factory edges together, and tape and mud them with progressively wider knives.

This will fill in the valley, and need less sanding to get the flat uniform surface that you desire. 

I was notified that you quoted my Formica suggestion, then I see that you edited your post, So I am to surmise that it is in consideration again.

GOOD.


ED


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

The Creator said:


> Yes, I have no experience drywalling, and getting a flat surface would be much more achievable if I'm just filling in a "crack" with mud, as opposed to creating a raised spot (the tape) and feathering it out. Also, Even for a pro, no matter how good you are at feathering it out, ultimately you're still creating a raised spot.



Not true. The end butt joints yes would be raised but the side edges are tapered to allow inset of the tape. You can finish perfectly flat on the tapered edges. You can buy 10' lengths to avoid a but joint for your project.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How about the white shrink wrap they use on buildings. You would just need a frame.
http://www.rhinoshrinkwrap.com/case-studies/scaffold-shrink-wrapping/


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

my mind is still stuck on *WHY* such perfection is required ???
what does the audience consist of ???
and - how far away from the screen will the audience be ??
and - how often will it be used ??

[just wondering out loud here]

,

,


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## chiraldude (Nov 16, 2013)

Compare this to buying a very large and expensive flatscreen TV. Would you be satisfied if there was a slightly visible horizontal or vertical line on the screen? Maybe you only see it when the image is a solid color or when sitting off to the side but still it would be there.
I am guessing the projector he is using is quite expensive so he wants a screen with zero flaws to go with it.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

I like the poster that said to use Canvas.
This is somewhat like what was used on the Gonnie Bird ( C-47 ) aircraft flight controls stretch the fabric over the frame than paint it with DOPE (paint) it will shrink & become very tight over the frame. Also used thin paper dampened than pulled over frame let dry it will also shrink some what than apply the airplane dope this makes it very tight.


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## chiraldude (Nov 16, 2013)

I suspect getting the frame perfectly flat (not twisted from stress) would be a tricky thing given the dimensions of the frame.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

a quick trip through GOOGLE for "Home Theater Screens" turned up
all kinds of the "correct" screen material as well as the assembled screens.
these have the correct color reflective finish that would beat a painted
surface hands down. (and skip all that home made stuff)).
why not use the correct material if you are requiring such perfection ???


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## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> How about the white shrink wrap they use on buildings. You would just need a frame.
> http://www.rhinoshrinkwrap.com/case-studies/scaffold-shrink-wrapping/


A creative idea but some points to consider:
-the cost per roll, before shipping, starts at more than half of what a complete screen assembly is sold for
-the material looks to be translucent so light that passes through it may appear on the surface behind the material and create ghosts visible to the audience
-it appears that there is a sheen to the plastic and that will create hot spots, or glare, where projector light is directly reflected back to the audience

Just from a purely diy perspective:
Item 2 may be able to be reined in by attaching black fabric behind the stretch wrap or possibly by painting the back of it with an opaque color. 
Item 3 might be addressed by using a dulling spray applied to the front surface.
Obviously, both of these remedies would add cost and hassle to the project and will still be of inferior quality as compared to pursuing either of the two products I listed a few posts back.

Projector screens seem like a very simple item but, in reality, they do require a bit of thought and research to achieve the results that one would expect after spending good money on a good pj. Things like screen gain and color(other than white) are properties that may never have been given a thought by anyone without projector experience but they can help to compensate for deficiencies in either the equipment, the room, or both. 
When building my media room, I planned on using screen paint on a wall.... Until I read about the horror stories of getting it right and the cost associated with the paint. So I researched my options. I had poorly controlled light in my room from windows on a NE facing wall and my projector did not have a particularly high /real/ contrast ratio. This prompted me to settle on high contrast grey screen material, though black was considered. I built a wooden frame from 1x4 material with mortise and tenon joints to resist the stresses from stretching a screen across it. The screen material was purchased online for about 35 bucks for a 78" screen. Flocking tape was added around the border to add contrast and aide in focusing the image in the proper region of the screen without bleed onto the surrounding surfaces. As an added bonus, it received a high wife approval factor rating. The next iteration will entail sinking my TABAQ speakers into the wall behind the screen and installing a larger, acoustically transparent screen to hide the speakers and gain screen real estate(100" is as big as I can fit on the wall).


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

W0j0 - very well written.


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