# Water heater in closet



## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Sorry, I believe the correct term is louvered doors not vented doors...


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

The water heater has to be able to draw air to burn gas. Maybe one of the experts will know how much.


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

You'll be closing off access for future maintenance like filter changes. Is the furnace behind the closed section? 
If the water heater dies, will you be able to get it out with the furnace in the way..... or vice-versa.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Access really should be an issue in the future as the closet space is pretty large...more concerned about providing the proper venting and airflow


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

Hoping that a water heater expert will chime in.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

While waiting for that expert I'll suggest that maybe storing all the stuff and clutter in there with the GAS water heater isn't the best idea either.:no:


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

not sure about the exact specs, but I do know that if the water heater is enclosed such as yours, you must have so many cubic feet of make up air. The National Fuel Gas Code would probably be the best place to get such info.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

And on another note, I think you may find that it is not code to have a water heater in a closet in a bed room or a bonus room anymore. But, I guess that depends on were you are located and the codes in your area. I do all my design work in CA. 
Well, that is were I am based anyway, I do lots of design work for out of state clients too.

A hall closet would be fine or a separate enclosure accessed from the exterior would be ideal.

Just saying.

Andy.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I would also get a flame guard on that water heater, just to be safe. 

Is that an outside wall? You could add a small vent maybe so it can draw outside air.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Behind lower half of the wall(bottom 3 feet) directly behind the water heater is the crawl space. The upper half is an interior wall. Attic directly above (one story house).


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

JRP,

I can't remember off the top my my head (loooong day) but I'll look it up for you and reply tomorrow.

BTW, the gas HWT does need combustion air so if you replace the louvered door with a solid one you'll need to provide air into there somehow. You might consider using a return air vent somewhere near the HWT, like in the door or in the wall.


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

JRP,

A few quick questions. What's the btus on your furnace and HWT? What was this room before the reno? As a general rule of thumb you need at least 1" sq/1000 btu of the total input of all appliances and the opening shall not be more than 18", or lower than 6", above floor level.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

HWT 40,000 BTU/hr input. It also says "for closet installation", if that matters. Furnace 69,000 input, 64,400 output.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

I wonder if your code states that it needs to be set up a min. of 18" on a platform?

Andy.


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

Alright, according to my tables of you have a total of 109k btu then you'll need an opening of 18" square or 5" round duct equivalent (if you bring the air in from outside)

Andy G brings up a good point about checking with your local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction or local inspection office). I'm using the Canadian Gas Assoc codebook which is the same codes as the AGA, but these are just MINIMUM guidelines, and your local codes may be more strict. They may want you to have your tank mounted on a platform in case of a major leak, they may want you to chage the way your T&P relief piping is piped (it goes out through the wall to the outside I assume? If so how high above the ground is it?)

It may be a PITA to ask the local inspectors, but it's a gas appliance your dealing with, not electric, so it's better to be safe than sorry.

Thanks for the exercise. I've been working exclusively on Industrial/ Commercial these last few years and this was a good little one to sink my teeth into.

Good luck!

P.S. -

```
...this room when done will be either bedroom or bonus room.
```
Sorry to burst your bubble but the code states that "The water heater, unless of the *direct vent* type, _*shall not*_ be installed in a *bathroom*, *bedroom*, or any *enclosure* where sleeping accomodation is provided"


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback! Could I close the closet up with an air tight door and opened the attic with vents? That way it's only pulling air from outside the room in question.


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

So then this room is not on an outside wall? Bummer. You can't pull air from the attic, I'll look up the code and add later. There's a max distance you can vent from the outside, I'll look that up later as well.

But the easiest way would be to add a grill on the door, or on the wall. The furnace can't all that noisy, can it? What do you plan on doing in this 'bonus room'?


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

The closet, which houses the HWT, does not back to an exterior wall. There are two exterior walls on other side of room. The grills(in door or wall) are an option but not ideal because we would like this room to be available as a bedroom.


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

So this is a direct vent HWT? It didn't look like it to me from your pic, and if it isn't, then is against code. See an earlier post.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

No, it's not direct vent...and I understand that as it sits it may be against code. I am trying to find a way to bring to code without buying a new direct vent HWT.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

*HWT ???* 
Is that "Hot Water Tank" ?
Is that what that means?


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

Yup, it's easier. Damn now that you've cracked our code, we'll have to change it again.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

For all these years I have always referred to such appliances as Hot Water Heaters. All the plans and drawings that I can recall have used H.W.H. to the best of my recall. What happens when one is referring to an on-demand heater and there is no tank? Then what?


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Just curious...why would attic or crawl space air not be considered "outside air" per code?


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## hvac122 (Dec 10, 2007)

Not knowing where you are from this may not pertain. Around here, Nebraska, it is okay to take combustion air from the attic. You would need 2 pipes. Both extended above insulation in the attic. One would terminate 1 foot from ceiling the other 1 foot from the floor. If your furnace is bringing in its combustion air from outside then you would only need to supply it for the water heater.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

And you are not referring to a direct vent water heater? How big for the pipes?


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## hvac122 (Dec 10, 2007)

JRP_24 said:


> And you are not referring to a direct vent water heater? How big for the pipes?


You would need to check your local codes.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Ok, will check them if I go this route, but, can you confirm you do this type of venting in Nebraska for natural draft hot water heaters?


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

Code says that "... the duct shall communicate directly with the outdoors, ..."
I'd interpret that to mean outside, not in an attic. Maybe your local inspector would see it differently.


```
Around here, Nebraska, it is okay to take combustion air from the attic.
```
I've never seen a duct terminate in an attic, and I've been in a few, but I guess they do things differently in Nebraska. I wonder why?



> Just curious...why would attic or crawl space air not be considered "outside air" per code?


Probably due to the fact that either space may not provide enough air for proper combustion.



> What happens when one is referring to an on-demand heater and there is no tank? Then what?


Maybe ODHTKLS?:jester:


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

So after the responses/advice my options seem to be....

1. Install a direct vent HWT. I could then install a solid door on the closet and the space could be used for sleeping accommodations (per code).

2. Replace with an electric HWT. Again I could then install a solid door on closet and sleep in room and consider a bedroom

3. Install a grill/vent in wall or door, however cannot be used for sleeping accommodations.

Wondering what other DIY'ers would do in my shoes? Would sleeping in that room with just a grill on the door really present a safety issue for sleeping? Would a CO detector not mitigate that risk?


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## hvac122 (Dec 10, 2007)

JRP_24 said:


> Ok, will check them if I go this route, but, can you confirm you do this type of venting in Nebraska for natural draft hot water heaters?


Yes we can if need be


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## Combustionking (Jun 29, 2011)

*Safety*

Well for safety sake everything in that closet should be removed. I would definitely fix your venting issue with a 1/4" pitch per foot on however the long the run is to the chimney. Or get it power vented with PVC and a power vent. Sealed combustion. But if not put that unit as close to the chimney as possible. And if you have another bigger combustion device on the chimney put the exhaust of the water heater on top


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## Combustionking (Jun 29, 2011)

JRP_24 said:


> So after the responses/advice my options seem to be....
> 
> 1. Install a direct vent HWT. I could then install a solid door on the closet and the space could be used for sleeping accommodations (per code).
> 
> ...


Definitely have a co alarm in the home, do not use electric if you don't have to you spent 77dollers a month here in ny for a electric hot water heater, gas only 33. Natural gas all the way. Stay away from anything electric power plants kill our plant


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Combustionking,

Try this:
http://www.iespell.com/

it's free.


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## JRP_24 (Jun 3, 2011)

Combustionking said:


> Definitely have a co alarm in the home, do not use electric if you don't have to you spent 77dollers a month here in ny for a electric hot water heater, gas only 33. Natural gas all the way. Stay away from anything electric power plants kill our plant


Power company stated that I would be looking at $10-$15 per month more for the electric water heater vs my current gas...


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