# 2002 Nissan Altima Engine Swap



## BigJim

Our daughter gave our grandson a 2002 Nissan Altima, the engine is shot. After doing a lot of reading I found that this model Nissan is notorious for engines going south if driven hard or under certain conditions. This car was ran hard with a fouled out plug or two for over 100 miles wide open. The trouble with this engine (2.5s) is the pre-cat. It is just below the exhaust manifold and catches a lot of heat. Here is an explanation of one member of a forum I am a member of:

_The pre-cat issue is this, I'm trying to quote it as best as I can, saw it in numerous TSB's. At excessive heat and certain driving conditions, the materials in the pre-catalyst can deteriorate and sand-like particles can be sucked back into the engine, scoring the cylinder walls. This will increase oil consumption and/or coolant consumption which in turn will lower overall engine compression. If the owner continues to drive the vehicle under these conditions, the engine will need to be replaced._

I have decided to pull the motor and replace with a 2.0 because it is a lot cheaper and the hp drop isn't that bad. I have read where others have done this and they are ok with the hp drop. 

My problem at this time is I need to know what I will need to disconnect to pull this engine. By the way, it is an automatic. It is suggested to drop the engine out the bottom but I can't jack the car up that high, so out the top it will come. I have pulled many engines but not newer cars, this will be my second fairly new car engine to pull. The 60s cars were no trouble at all to pull, just work. LOL 

Hmmm, just found my Haynes, Manual, I will see what they say.


----------



## Brainbucket

You will have to remove the front of the engine, ie water pump, brackets, a/c compressor, but leave it connected to the hoses if it's charged up if you can, alt, and what ever there is to stop you from clearing the flywheel, timing cover and maybe oil pan. Idk. Also watch the torque converter as it will try to come out of tranny when you push the engine away to clear flywheel.:vs_cool:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> You will have to remove the front of the engine, ie water pump, brackets, a/c compressor, but leave it connected to the hoses if it's charged up if you can, alt, and what ever there is to stop you from clearing the flywheel, timing cover and maybe oil pan. Idk. Also watch the torque converter as it will try to come out of tranny when you push the engine away to clear flywheel.:vs_cool:


Hey Bb, good to see you again. Thanks for the information. I checked my Haynes manual and it is about as useless as.......(insert your favorite saying here). They are saying the ONLY way to get that engine out is through the bottom of the car. I know for a fact you can pull it from the top, and that is what I will attempt. I will take tons of pictures before I start, no way I will remember where everything goes back. It is hard for me to remember most things now days. LOL Thanks again.


----------



## Brainbucket

One time I had to remove everything but the block in order to take it out the top instead of out the bottom. Intake, exhaust, timing components, and cylinder head had to come off but it came out the top. Then I had to reassemble it in the vehicle. Took 3 times as long but it got done.:vs_cool:


----------



## BigJim

I got started yesterday but it was late and didn't get a lot done. I already have the exhaust manifold off and a lot of other things, I just hope I can pull that thing without pulling the head, although I do plan to pull the head later to see what is going on in there.


----------



## de-nagorg

Jim: I too have swapped engines in vehicles.

I remember one 63 model that there was only one way to get the engine out, the engine was bolted from below, and there was no room for it to come from above.

This was a 63 Corvair ..So not all 60's cars were so simple.

I remember there was room to spare on lots of autos built in the 50s , 60s, but with the gas crisis of the early 70s things got tight under the hood.

I have no experience on the new Nissans, but the basics still stand, only take out what is absolutely necessary, that way you have less to remember.

It's completely possible to use a different size engine in vehicles, as many have options galore from the factory.

And good luck with it


ED


----------



## 1995droptopz

Jim, I have never pulled an engine from below without a hoist, but I have dropped a transmission on a FWD car from the bottom below with a set of jack stands and a floor jack. If you have a cherry picker you can drop the cradle and pull the front of the vehicle up by wrapping a strap around the radiator core support and lifting the front of the car up and wheeling the cradle out the front. 

Coming out the top is tough since you generally don't have a lot of room side to side to tilt the engine and get the torque converter off to transmission input shaft. 

My vote is drop the cradle. Then you just need to pull rad hoses, separate the lower ball joints wire harness etc. just remember to get an alignment


----------



## 1995droptopz

Also, did you get the PCM and harness from the donor car? Not sure how well the 2.0 will run with a 2.5 calibration or if there are too many differences for it to run.


----------



## BigJim

1995droptopz said:


> Jim, I have never pulled an engine from below without a hoist, but I have dropped a transmission on a FWD car from the bottom below with a set of jack stands and a floor jack. If you have a cherry picker you can drop the cradle and pull the front of the vehicle up by wrapping a strap around the radiator core support and lifting the front of the car up and wheeling the cradle out the front.
> 
> Coming out the top is tough since you generally don't have a lot of room side to side to tilt the engine and get the torque converter off to transmission input shaft.
> 
> My vote is drop the cradle. Then you just need to pull rad hoses, separate the lower ball joints wire harness etc. just remember to get an alignment


Now you got me thinking, I do have a 2 ton cherry picker with a 8 foot lift, that son of a gun is some kinda heavy. I have watched youtube videos where they pulled the engine out the top but it took them 12 hours and they were young fellows. 

I also watched the engine dropped out the bottom side. When dropping the engine they literally took everything out of the front end, struts included, that is one heck of a lot of work, then they had to lift the car, it looked like 4 feet, to get the motor out from under.

Question on the torque converter, does it not drop back into a recess like on a rear wheel drive? I have seen videos of them pulling the engine out the top with and without the trans attached. If coming out the top and leaving the trans in the body, you best know it is clearing or you will snap an axle.

I haven't got the engine yet, I plan to get it the 30th if all goes well. The engine does come with the wiring harness. The good thing is the 2.0 is the same block and everything as the 2.5, the bore and stroke are just different. I just hope I don't have to have the brain flashed.

Another question, is the throttle valve electronic like the 2.5? I hate that one on the 2.5, it is unbelievable the steps you have to go through to set that sucker. If you ever open it manually to clean it, you messed up big time. Also you need to put locktite on the screws on the butterfly, they are really bad to come loose and get sucked into the engine.

I didn't get to do anything on the car today, I had to go to the VA doctor.


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> Jim: I too have swapped engines in vehicles.
> 
> I remember one 63 model that there was only one way to get the engine out, the engine was bolted from below, and there was no room for it to come from above.
> 
> This was a 63 Corvair ..So not all 60's cars were so simple.
> 
> I remember there was room to spare on lots of autos built in the 50s , 60s, but with the gas crisis of the early 70s things got tight under the hood.
> 
> I have no experience on the new Nissans, but the basics still stand, only take out what is absolutely necessary, that way you have less to remember.
> 
> It's completely possible to use a different size engine in vehicles, as many have options galore from the factory.
> 
> And good luck with it
> 
> 
> ED


Ed, back in the 60s I was a mechanic, these new cars have left me in the dust. Talking about the old Corvairs, they had a magneto and that thing would ring your chimes big time. The garage I worked in, one of the mechanics was bad to load up a condenser and throw it to you when you were under the hood of a car and couldn't do anything but bat it away. Those things would knock the fool out of you.

I told him he was going to get his one day and he did. LOL He was up in the back of an ole Corvair van, he got hold of the magneto or should I say it got hold of him. That thing knocked him out the back of that van, I just cracked up laughing at him. Driving a Corvair was like driving an over size go cart. 

I saw one fellow put a 427 chevy engine in one, I didn't look under it but the whole inside of the car was motor. LOL


----------



## 1995droptopz

I would try to grab the pcm from the donor engine. Parameters for fuel and spark will be unique to the engine size. Whenever I dropped the cradle I separated the lower ball joints, then pulled the axle shafts. Left the struts swinging in the breeze. 

The thing with front wheel drives is they don't like to come apart too easily in the car. On many of the cars I worked on there was only about an inch of clearance between the balancer and the strut mount. So when you try to pop it off the trans then tilt it up and out you hit the body before you clear the trans. 

Most of my experience was the other direction, pulling the trans and leaving the engine. And every time I remember wrestling it pretty good and I was in my 20s. Now I would rather remove more bolts and fight it less that I am older and smarter.


----------



## 1995droptopz

One funny story was when I was 16. I had bought a Ford Probe as a winter beater for $700 and the trans went out a few weeks later. I found a junkyard one and I started the swap. I was having such a hard time putting the trans back in that I decided to remove one of the struts. I hit the big nut in the center with my impact and drove the brake rotor straight into the pavement. Could have taken my head off with that spring if I weren't so close to the ground at the time


----------



## de-nagorg

Jim: yeah those corvairs were small, try being 6'3" and 265 pounds , driving one.

You feel like a sardine even when alone.

But they sure made a more powerful dune buggy chassis than any old V W.

And they would fly over hills great.

And yes their magneto could bite.

Someone should have charged up a condenser and gently placed it in that guys toolbox, so that when he went to get his 1/2 inch box end, he grabbed the condenser also.


ED


----------



## BigJim

1995droptopz said:


> One funny story was when I was 16. I had bought a Ford Probe as a winter beater for $700 and the trans went out a few weeks later. I found a junkyard one and I started the swap. I was having such a hard time putting the trans back in that I decided to remove one of the struts. I hit the big nut in the center with my impact and drove the brake rotor straight into the pavement. Could have taken my head off with that spring if I weren't so close to the ground at the time


Man, I can see that happening, that would have scared the fool out of me. I appreciate the reminder not to remove that nut.
I don't know if I can get the PMC or not, I may have to buy one.

Ed, I favored the VW bug over a Corvair, I guess mainly for the looks. Most of the VWs I owned, I made a Baja out of them, put a set of mud grips on that bad boy and it would go most places a 4X4 would. Man those were the days.


----------



## BigJim

I got started pulling the engine, so far I have several things loose and off. I was anxious to get the pre-cat off to see what shape it is in, it is just like I thought, 98% of the comb is gone and there is sand like crap in there. So it looks like the engine is truly shot.

I have checked and I don't see a way the engine can come out the top without first taking the exhaust off, drop the cradle, support the engine and pull the mounts. Once I do that I think I can lower the engine and swing it around so it will clear everything. There is no way to move the transmission away from the engine because the oil pan on the trans is almost right against the cradle frame.

Question, how far does the torque converter go into the rear of the crank.


----------



## BigJim

Trying to find information about this engine and car are worse than pulling teeth. I have searched all over the place and can not find if the torque converter slides back like they do on American cars. 

Also the manual says to disconnect the crankshaft sensor before separating the trans from the engine, why is that necessary?


----------



## 1995droptopz

Here Is a link to a photo of the converter.

Https://goo.gl/images/ntok5b

I also saw a few photos of the rear of the crankshaft. From those it looks like it might recess a half inch or so max.


----------



## BigJim

1995droptopz said:


> Here Is a link to a photo of the converter.
> 
> Https://goo.gl/images/ntok5b
> 
> I also saw a few photos of the rear of the crankshaft. From those it looks like it might recess a half inch or so max.


From the looks of that converter it looks like it may slide back like an American car will. American torque converters have a slot where that one has two prongs. Those prongs would probably have to slide in, then maybe slide back out when bolting to the flywheel. That being the case, the converter should slide back, I guess I will find out soon. I will let you know. Thanks for the link, I appreciate it.


----------



## BigJim

After much searching and asking questions, I did find that the torque converter will seat back into the transmission. I have about 1 1/4-1 1/2 inches between the wall and the front of my engine, I know now that engine will come out the top of that car. 

That will save me a ton of work and save crawling under the car a lot (at my age that kills me). I don't have to drop the exhaust, or the cradle, or the axles and all that other junk. I am one happy ole man.

The fellow who pulled his engine out the top and reinstalled it told me where the hard spots will be and that is mostly reinstalling. I will not pull the trans with the engine.

One trick I found out today is how to stop the Check Engine Light from coming on once I gut the first converter or if I choose to use headers instead of the orignal gutted catalytic converter. On the second or lower O2 sensor, install two 18mm Spark Plug Anti Foul Adapters, drill one adapter out dead center very straight 1/2 inch, don't drill the other one.

Screw the two adapters together with the drilled one screwed into the undrilled one. Use loctite and do be very careful not to over tighten because the drilled one is pretty thin. Screw the O2 sensor in the adapters. Unplug the battery for at least 30 seconds to reset the codes, you should be good to go.


----------



## Brainbucket

The converters act the same. NOTE** when you are putting the engine back in, make sure converter is all the way in. When you bolt up the engine, do it by hand, 1 bolt on each side and then turn the converter. If it doesn't turn, it's not all the way in. If you continue, you will break the pump. So when engine is flush against tranny, the converter will turn by hand. Oh, they have the O2 extenders on ebay for around $20.00:vs_cool:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> The converters act the same. NOTE** when you are putting the engine back in, make sure converter is all the way in. When you bolt up the engine, do it by hand, 1 bolt on each side and then turn the converter. If it doesn't turn, it's not all the way in. If you continue, you will break the pump. So when engine is flush against tranny, the converter will turn by hand. Oh, they have the O2 extenders on ebay for around $20.00:vs_cool:


Thanks Bb, I remember hooking one trans up and the converter wasn't seated all the way back, you are right the converter will not turn.

I never did take the time to understand automatic transmissions, I can rebuild sticks but never tried an automatic, they have always intimidated me.

I did see the extensions on ebay, I didn't see any that cheap though, thanks for letting me know.

I have the highest of respect for mechanics of today, you guys are way ahead of us old 60 mechanics, worlds apart.


----------



## BigJim

I got another question, that weird looking fitting on the gas line that goes into the fuel rail, how do I disconnect that without a special tool?


----------



## Brainbucket

BigJim said:


> I got another question, that weird looking fitting on the gas line that goes into the fuel rail, how do I disconnect that without a special tool?












These are cheap. $10.00 at any parts house.:vs_cool:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> These are cheap. $10.00 at any parts house.:vs_cool:


Thanks again Bb, that will work.


----------



## Brainbucket

BigJim said:


> I have the highest of respect for mechanics of today, you guys are way ahead of us old 60 mechanics, worlds apart.


I started in 69 when I was 9 yrs old with my dad and professionally in 77 at 17 yrs old. In 79, there was talk of computers coming out on cars so I did the GM training in 80 and was on top of all the computer cars. Hardly anyone did and boy those guys were lost and or did something else. So I know the old and new cars. Boy, has the cars changed.:vs_coffee:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> I started in 69 when I was 9 yrs old with my dad and professionally in 77 at 17 yrs old. In 79, there was talk of computers coming out on cars so I did the GM training in 80 and was on top of all the computer cars. Hardly anyone did and boy those guys were lost and or did something else. So I know the old and new cars. Boy, has the cars changed.:vs_coffee:


Even with the training you have, not all cars are the same, I bet it drives you crazy trying to keep up with all the new stuff coming out all the time. You must have a fortune tied up in programs and books.

Bb, back in the 60s I was a mechanic and loved it, I got out of mechanics when I went to Memphis Engine Builders boring and honing and building blocks. I went on to the fire department and really got stupid and went into construction and have been a wood worker ever since. All I know how to do on these cars now days is get online and ask a ton of questions, take a ton of pictures so I will know where everything goes. 

I got another question for you. If I unhook the wiring harness in behind the glove box, do I have to unplug any wires from the engine or can the harness stay with the engine when I pull it?


----------



## Brainbucket

How ever you like to do it. I have pulled the engine with and without the harness. Since your going the change harnesses, that would be a good choice. Just make sure the other harness will plug up to tranny. Tools. I have 4 different scanners and still some cars are hard to scan. I have all kinds of special tools. Tool freak here. If I had to guess, $250,000 to $300,000 and just tools in my tool box alone is $100,000. Holy crap I gotta stop buying stuff.:devil3:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> How ever you like to do it. I have pulled the engine with and without the harness. Since your going the change harnesses, that would be a good choice. Just make sure the other harness will plug up to tranny. Tools. I have 4 different scanners and still some cars are hard to scan. I have all kinds of special tools. Tool freak here. If I had to guess, $250,000 to $300,000 and just tools in my tool box alone is $100,000. Holy crap I gotta stop buying stuff.:devil3:


My stars, I thought I was a tool nut, you got me beat hands down, I bet you got stuff you don't even know you got, I know I do. I have bought tools before, then remembered I already had that. LOL

Thanks for all your help, it is much appreciated.


----------



## BigJim

I know what is bending the tang on one of the spark plugs now. Take a look at the intake manifold. By the way, that is metal grit on that one cylinder intake.


----------



## Brainbucket

It also ate a butterfly because it's gone.:surprise:


----------



## BigJim

It sure did, if I can get that last thing holding the intake manifold loose I will hopefully see where it is. I may pop the head just to see what all it did. There is some severe grit in that hole where the butterfly is missing, I am sure that is piston, head and cylinder wall grit. If I can get the head off I will post a picture.

Man I thought working on a boat motor was something, these new cars have got boat motors beat hands down. LOL

When I pulled the coils, one of the plug tubes had oil in it which fouled a plug, no wonder this thing wouldn't run.


----------



## BigJim

I found the butterfly flap, this is the engine block in the photo, that thing fit dead perfect in the intake port of the block. With that blocking the gas intake and one plug fouled out, no wonder it didn't run. As thick as the butterfly is, it was bent.


----------



## Brainbucket

Well. Have we made any progress?:vs_OMG::biggrin2:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> Well. Have we made any progress?:vs_OMG::biggrin2:


Hey Bb, not yet, our grandson hasn't got the other motor yet so I have just left it ready to pull. All I need to do is unhook the trans and motor mounts and it will be ready to come out, I just didn't want it sitting in the way for a while.

I wish I could find someone to swap hoists, mine is some kinda heavy and it doesn't fold up. I do like that it has an 8 foot lift though. 

I hope to get back on the car soon but in the meanwhile I am piddling around out in the shop organizing things, especially my tools. I wanted to get all of my sockets, extensions and ratchets in one place, except for the set I carry in my small tool box. 

I thought I had all of them all neat in a handy place, then I opened a drawer on my roll around and found over a hundred more I had over looked. I hate having to look for a tool when I need it. I even ran across an old lifter extractor for a 390 Ford engine I bought years back. With this extractor you can remove the lifters in an old 390 without having to pull the intake.


----------



## 1995droptopz

I know the feeling of wanting all of your tools organized. When I was a mechanic it was pretty much a requirement, since if you left stuff laying around it would end up getting picked up by sticky fingers.


----------



## BigJim

Our grandson sent the money for the engine yesterday and I ordered it, it was shipped today...I hope. Looks like fun time ahead. I will take a bunch of pictures. Got to pick up the deals so I can unhook my gas line. I will have them unload the engine in the back of my truck so I can move it where I need it, to stay out of the way for now.

I did check and found out the 2.0 has a timing chain instead of a belt, that makes me a happy camper.


----------



## BigJim

The engine is here now, show time.LOL One thing is for sure, it isn't the same engine shown in the picture where I ordered it. There is no alternator, AC compressor, cat converter and I am sure I will find more later. I know I will have to change out the intake manifold so I hope there are butterflies in the one on the motor I can use, because all of the butterflies are loose and one is stuck in the intake port of the old engine.

I will do a compression check before I do anything to the engine. If the compression is bad, back it goes. This will be a slow process for me for a couple reasons, it is cold out there and I am an old man. LOL I will take some pictures when I get fired up.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79

Good to see you refusing to drop an engine out through the bottom of a car, even if it is the recommended way. When I picture that scenario in my mind, I think of my older brother back in 1976. 

He was taking a transmission out of a tandem axle dump truck by himself. His wife was taking him a cold drink when she noticed blood running down the driveway by the truck. The tranny jacks failed and the trans was found laying on his chest. Gone at just 42 years old. :sad:


----------



## BigJim

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Good to see you refusing to drop an engine out through the bottom of a car, even if it is the recommended way. When I picture that scenario in my mind, I think of my older brother back in 1976.
> 
> He was taking a transmission out of a tandem axle dump truck by himself. His wife was taking him a cold drink when she noticed blood running down the driveway by the truck. The tranny jacks failed and the trans was found laying on his chest. Gone at just 42 years old. :sad:


Greg, that is so sad, I really hate that for you. I have had some close calls in my time that could have turned out that bad as well.

I have watched several videos of the engine being pulled out the top. I am doing all I can to stay out from under the car. I can get down there but it is very difficult to get up, at 74 it is harder for me now days. lol I have looked at the transmission and if I drop the mount I can support it and slid it back toward the frame and get more room. I would have to drop the CV joints but that is still doable.

I pulled the intake from the newer engine today and there is no way to use any part of it as it is totally different. I will have to use the intake off the 2.5, but I have a problem with that. One of the butterfly deals is gone as it was sucked into the intake port of the engine. While it did not go inside the engine, it bent the dickens out of it. I will need to find another intake and get the butterfly and the two screws. 

The other three butterflies are very loose as the screws have worked half way out. I will remove them and use some licktite on them and hope they don't turn loose again. Here is a picture of the engine I plan to install.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79

Thanks Jim..... One minute were here and the next, someone is saying a prayer for us as our box is lowered in the ground. 

And I get the age thing. At just 65 I cannot believe how my physical dexterity has diminished. Just an hour of crawling around or under my car and its Tylenol time. 

I find myself now, having to measure 3 times, cut twice, and still cut it short. 

And where in the world did I lay that wrench ? Oh, here it is in my back pocket. 

Take your time, plenty of breaks, coffee or cold drink of choice, don't push yourself to be too tired, or get too cold or too hot or distracted... and your engine swap will be great. . Greg


----------



## BigJim

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Thanks Jim..... One minute were here and the next, someone is saying a prayer for us as our box is lowered in the ground.
> 
> And I get the age thing. At just 65 I cannot believe how my physical dexterity has diminished. Just an hour of crawling around or under my car and its Tylenol time.
> 
> I find myself now, having to measure 3 times, cut twice, and still cut it short.
> 
> And where in the world did I lay that wrench ? Oh, here it is in my back pocket.
> 
> Take your time, plenty of breaks, coffee or cold drink of choice, don't push yourself to be too tired, or get too cold or too hot or distracted... and your engine swap will be great. . Greg


Thanks buddy, I appreciate that, it is hard for me to sit down for any length of time, it seems like I just have to get back up and get at it.

I am having a real problem finding a butterfly to replace the one that came loose. If I knew what it was actually called that might help. It is located in the lower half of the intake manifold, I think it is in the plenum. I bet I have to buy a whole lower half of the manifold or make another butterfly. If I can find a piece of metal that thickness that will not bend easily I am sure I can made it. Here is a picture of the butterfly and the one missing:


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79

Do they have any boneyards for older cars left in your area ?. One can be surprised what they may find in one when digging around, possibly even the butterfly on a toasted Nissan engine. Good luck...


----------



## BigJim

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Do they have any boneyards for older cars left in your area ?. One can be surprised what they may find in one when digging around, possibly even the butterfly on a toasted Nissan engine. Good luck...


Thanks Greg, I will give them a call and see what they have. If all fails, I will make one, shouldn't be too hard, if I can find the metal to make it out of.


----------



## de-nagorg

Can you take the one from the engine that is stuck in the port, and maybe reshape it back to near original?

A metal fabricator might be able to make one, 


or call the dealership and ask about a replacement part.

ED


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> Can you take the one from the engine that is stuck in the port, and maybe reshape it back to near original?
> 
> A metal fabricator might be able to make one,
> 
> 
> or call the dealership and ask about a replacement part.
> 
> ED


Ed, like an idiot, I threw the bent one away. I will call the dealer also if I can't find one. Even making one is no problem, just finding the right metal for it will be the problem.


----------



## BigJim

I got started pulling the engine out of the car today. I decided to pull trans with the motor, so I stared pulling the CV joints and the one on the passenger side is a real stubborn deal. I put a 4 foot cheater bar on the nut and it still hasn't broken loose yet. I sprayed it good with deep creep and will go with a longer pipe tomorrow...if it don't rain.

I did a lot of reading today and found that I can buy the butterfly at the dealer and the screws, also I will get the red loctite.

If it weren't for the pre-cat problem and the blame butterflies coming loose, Nissan would have a really good engine. The shame of it is Nissan won't help any of the people who have had to eat their engines because of these problems.

My next move is to make a sling for my cherry picker. I need to be able to tilt the engine at an angle when pulling it, and there is no one who can help me while I jack the engine out.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79

Those CV axle nuts can be stubborn. When we males get older, we still have a lot of the strength we built from our younger days, but we have to be careful about getting hernias when wresting with stuck parts or real heavy lifting. 

I have good luck with PB Blaster soaking overnight and using my 1/2" air driven impact wrench. Sometimes my hand torch has to be used to help out, like when I removed the old calipers from my wife's blue Buick sled and their frozen mounting bolts. .

But needless to say, a person has to watch out for what may be damaged from the heat being applied like, nylon/rubber seals etc. that may be out of view... somewhere on the part being heated. 

Whenever I read of people having a hard time removing a large nut from a vehicle, I cannot help to recall reading somewhere on a truck forum where a guy literally whipped himself down to a frazzle, while trying to get the wheel nuts off of the back wheels on his old Dodge truck. Come to find out that year of old truck, had the wheels nuts with left handed threads on the back.


----------



## ron45

Maybe.?


----------



## ron45

I think I'm going to try and get one of these.


----------



## BigJim

Greg, today I will get the 5 foot pipe and see if that will do it. I just keep thinking I am going to bust something in the transmission with that much pressure. I may get out my large pipe wrench and clamp onto the axle to keep the pressure off the trans. Oh I know about the left hand threads on the old dodge trucks. I am bad to snap a lug bolt off, so I have kinda gotten gun shy tightening the lugs. LOL 

If my compressor would pull an air wrench I would have one. I looked at the Ingersoll battery powered wrenches but just don't have the bucks for one. The Dewalt impact I have won't even take a lug off, I have to use my 4 way and a pipe on the lugs now days. I do have a hernia, but so far it doesn't bother me.

Ron, that is the way to go, I love seeing the way people come up with things like this. It is amazing how they think up things like that, I wish I could. I look back at some of the contraptions I used to pull an engine when I was young and really stupid, makes cold chills run up my spine. LOL

Now for getting under a car, I won't even think about some of the really stupid things I did, and almost got killed.


----------



## BigJim

I got the axle nut off the passenger side today but broke my 1/2 inch drive ratchet. I got the breaker bar, which I should have done in the first place, I put a 2 foot pipe on the breaker bar and used the car jack on the pipe, broke loose like a charm.

The problem I am having on the driver's side, is the wheel is spinning with the tire on, sitting on the ground, and all the weight of the car on the wheel while trying to break the axle nut loose. I tried blocking the tire, no luck. My wife has knee trouble and can't hold the brake hard enough and our grandson had to work the last two days.

If our grandson can't make it over Monday, I will figure a way to use a metal bar and stop the wheel from turning. I hope the rain is gone by then, no fun working under a tarp.


----------



## de-nagorg

You can make your own DENVER BOOT, from some scrap metal.

This will stop the wheel from turning.


ED


----------



## BigJim

Thanks Ed, I think I have it figured out. I will let you know how it goes. I hope sears will let me have another ratchet, but if not I will need to buy another one.


----------



## de-nagorg

I'm not sure if sears still honors the Lifetime warranty on their tools or not, Since they now are in a conglomerate with K-mart, Ace hardware, and others.

But I would try myself, if I broke any of my Craftsman hand tools.

I would be interested to know if they replace it for you.

If not keep it, because the handle part makes a great unbreakable handle on a ball peen, welded onto it after you break the wooden one off.

Done that once, it is still in my toolbox.


ED


----------



## BigJim

Finally got the other axle nut off, well my grandson did. 
I pulled the engine today, It was a lot easier than I thought it would be, it came right out with no trouble at all. I did have to let it back down and take the oil filter off but that was about it.

I disconnected the transmission and checked to see if the flywheel on the 2.0 would work with the 2.5 transmission and starter. No such luck, I will need to use the flywheel off the 2.5 on the 2.0 for the transmission and all to work. Well you guessed it, I don't have a E-20 Torx Socket to get the flywheel off. I have called everybody and his brother, no luck. I hope I can find one tomorrow locally, if not I will have to wait for one I order online.


----------



## de-nagorg

That little car is going to make a great transportation, for someone to get to and fro College soon.

ED


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> That little car is going to make a great transportation, for someone to get to and fro College soon.
> 
> ED


I just hope I can remember where everything goes. LOL I sure am glad I have a camera phone. Now if I can just find that e-20 torx socket. LOL


----------



## de-nagorg

Is there a Grainger nearby?

Or you might have to buy a complete set of them to get the e-20.

I have had to go to a dealership and beg to borrow some specialty tools to do some things, that might be an option for you if they are agreeable.

A NAPA store should have them too.


ED


----------



## Brainbucket

Be careful on the flywheel swap. I haven't done what your doing. I always put in the correct engine but I see what your doing. 2.0 flywheel is for 2.0. I don't know if the 2.5 flywheel is balanced the same as a 2.0. If not, you will have a vibration. I haven't done the research on that.:vs_cool:


----------



## de-nagorg

I agree , pay close attention to any balancing weights added to the flexplate ( flywheel), get the weight back on the replacement flexplate in the same position, or the engine can and probably will destroy itself if it is too much out of balance.

Make a scratch mark on the rear of the crankshaft and flexplate, before taking it off, that way you know where to put the replacement, back on with the proper weight added in the right position

This is important if you want it to last a while.


ED


----------



## BigJim

BB That is one thing I didn't think about, I will do some checking to see if anyone else has had any problems swapping the flywheel.

Ed you are right, I sure don't want the engine to tear up, this is just too much work to do again. LOL

I know the flywheel on the 2.0 is smaller than the 2.5. Both the 2.0 and the 2.5 are the same block kinda like the old 327 and 283 or the 348 and 409 chevy, same blocks. One thing different on the 2.0, the starter mounts to the block facing the rear of the engine. The 2.5, the starter mounts on top of the transmission facing the front of the engine, that is the reason I need to swap flywheels, with the smaller flywheel, the started would never engage. I will need to close off the hole where the starter mounted on the 2.0.

I picked up the socket and Loctite this morning from NAPA, they were the only place in town that had the socket. As usual, dealing with the dealer is like pulling teeth. I called the Nissan dealer this morning to get the butterfly and screws. One dealer said I had to buy the whole intake manifold, I told him that was not correct, I said I know for a fact I can buy that part alone. He insisted I would have to buy the intake. I told him I appreciated his help and hung up. There is another Nissan dealer in town and they said the same thing. I called back with the parts # and they will have that butterfly here in the morning. I had to order the 8 screws online, it cost me $11.83 for the screws and $11.23 for shipping and handling. All eight screws won't weigh a 1/2 ounce, that is just stupid but what am I going to do.

I was told the e-20 socket would not work unless about 3/16 was ground off the end. I see why, the inside of the socket is chamfered and the flywheel bolts are very low profile, with the bevel there, the socket won't bite but will slip. I guess I will know in a little while.


----------



## BigJim

I checked last night, the e-20 socket does fit the flywheel bolts but it will need to have at least 1/8 inch or more ground off like I was told it would. The Nissan dealer called and said the butterfly came in.

I got side tracked from the engine swap, our hot water heater busted, so I have to deal with that now.


----------



## ron45

Have you tried Harbor Freight.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...ured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=+e-20+torx+socket


Also I have one of these and it's great. 
With the coupon I got mine for $70.
I use it all the time and love it.
I now read the newer one have even more power.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-aluminum-air-impact-wrench-68424.html


----------



## BigJim

Ron, another friend told me about those impact wrenches, 800 ft lbs is pretty impressive. Several years back, Harbor Freight tools were just not worth having, they have improved an awful lot though. I got kinda gun shy of them and I just haven't tried any of their tools again. Would a trim compressor pull that gun?


----------



## ron45

BigJim said:


> Ron, another friend told me about those impact wrenches, 800 ft lbs is pretty impressive. Several years back, Harbor Freight tools were just not worth having, they have improved an awful lot though. I got kinda gun shy of them and I just haven't tried any of their tools again. Would a trim compressor pull that gun?


Yes, but....

Not that good, had to keep waiting.


----------



## BigJim

ron45 said:


> Yes, but....
> 
> Not that good, had to keep waiting.


That is what I was afraid of. The Ingersoll battery impacts are pretty strong but they are priced really high. The dewalt battery impacts are not worth having. They won't even break a lug loose.


----------



## BigJim

Got a little done on the motor this afternoon. Our grandson came over on his day off and was a big help. We got the flywheels swapped out with no trouble at all. After I ground the end down on the e-20 inverted Torx socket it fit great and took the bolts out with no trouble.

Got the transmission bolted back up and just about ready to drop the motor back in. I made a plate to cover the starter hole on the engine, looked half way ok. Maybe get more done tomorrow.


----------



## de-nagorg

Did either flex-plate (flywheel) have any weights on them?

If not you are good, but if the weights are not where they belong , you have a balance problem.

I'm sure that you checked, because we discussed this earlier, but I am still checking.



ED


----------



## BigJim

Ed, the 2.5 flex plate did not have any weights on it. The one that came on the 2.0 did have a very small weight but it was a very small weight about 1/4 inch X 1/4 inch. I placed the larger flex plate on exactly like it came off the other engine. There is a dowel hole there made for stick shifts but there is no dowel for the flex plate. I made sure to put the flex plate in the same place using that hole as a reference point. 

I just hope there is no vibration. I just hope I can get this thing running. lol


----------



## iamrfixit

BigJim said:


> The dewalt battery impacts are not worth having. They won't even break a lug loose.


Which one have you used, the brushless 20v work great, I have a couple of these and they are a real beast. This price is just for the bare tool, they are also available as a kit if you need a battery and charger. 

The small, compact impacts work great for a lot of jobs, I use them all the time for driving lag screws, garage door/opener installs and even some vehicle body, interior or light under hood work but they just aren't enough tool for lug nuts or other large/hi-torque fasteners. For that you need a larger and heavier impact. Dewalt recently released a mid-range impact that has about twice the power of the compact, they may offer a little better balance of power/weight/price.

Most all brands share pretty comparable specs at similar price points. If you want to break tight or larger bolts loose then you'll need to spend more to get the larger tool.


----------



## BigJim

iamrfixit said:


> Which one have you used, the brushless 20v work great, I have a couple of these and they are a real beast. This price is just for the bare tool, they are also available as a kit if you need a battery and charger.
> 
> The small, compact impacts work great for a lot of jobs, I use them all the time for driving lag screws, garage door/opener installs and even some vehicle body, interior or light under hood work but they just aren't enough tool for lug nuts or other large/hi-torque fasteners. For that you need a larger and heavier impact. Dewalt recently released a mid-range impact that has about twice the power of the compact, they may offer a little better balance of power/weight/price.
> 
> Most all brands share pretty comparable specs at similar price points. If you want to break tight or larger bolts loose then you'll need to spend more to get the larger tool.


iamrfixit, this I did not know. I had no idea Dewalt made an impact that strong. The one I have isn't a compact it is a regular size 18V, I just checked, it has a puny 300 ft lbs of torque, no wonder the blame thing won't bust a lug loose. LOL

I have a question, will the Crankshaft/Camshaft Position Sensor from the 2002 2.5 engine work on the 2.0? I am in the process of going back with the engine and I want to make sure all sensors and fittings are changed before I drop the engine in. I don't have a clue what year the 2.0 is. Any one have a clue what year the QR2.0DE engine was use in the USA.


----------



## BigJim

My stars what a day, I just knew I would have that engine sitting in the car today. I found there are 4 holes that had to be drilled larger and tapped. I really like to have flipped, one of the holes I over looked to drill and tap was the long bolt holding the starter to the motor. The bad part is it should have been drilled and tapped before installing the transmission.

I absolutely hate to do something over, so I do all I can to get it right the first time. Taking that transmission back off was not something I wanted to do. I drilled the hole with the transmission in place and got the bright idea to extend the tap and not pull the transmission. It worked, talk about one happy old man.

I had to drill and tap the top two holes on the motor mount that is on the side closest to the firewall. There are several parts that will have to be used from the 2.5 so I got them changed, I hope that is all of them. 

I tried to set the engine down in the car and call it a day but I didn't have my chain set right for the engine to go in so I set it back on the floor and called it a day. Maybe Monday...I hope.


----------



## BigJim

Got the engine installed today with the help of my wife. I had to hold the transmission at an angle while Judy let the lift down, she couldn't shut it off, the good part is, it set down dead on where it needed to be. 

I have most of the wireing figured out, except for which wire goes to the crank sensor. I was pretty tired about dusk so I let it go until tomorrow.

Now if I can just get it running good I will really be a happy old man.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79

Doesn't it feel good to pass those milestones and to know...its downhill from here ? Good work Jim... :thumbup:


----------



## BigJim

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> Doesn't it feel good to pass those milestones and to know...its downhill from here ? Good work Jim... :thumbup:


I sure hope it is down hill now Greg, but the way it usually goes for me it is just the beginning. lol


----------



## BigJim

I sure hope today is the day I hear that engine running, I think I will have it complete today, at least I hope I will. Being an old 1960s mechanic is a totally different world today. Being 74, this is the last engine I will swap out, I am too old for this stuff. LOL The mechanics of today have to be computer, electronic, mechanic and contortionist to just name a few attributes, you have my highest respect.


----------



## Brainbucket

Sometimes I wonder how I can do a job when I'm 5'11" and 210lbs and I need a little hand at the end of my finger when I'm upside down under a dash.:smile:


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> Sometimes I wonder how I can do a job when I'm 5'11" and 210lbs and I need a little hand at the end of my finger when I'm upside down under a dash.:smile:


Buddy there is no way I could get under there like that any more, well on second thought, I may get under there but no way could I get out by myself. LOL

I got the engine install complete today except for two things, I have one electrical connection I don't have a clue what plugs in it. I am including a photo of the fitting, it is dead in front of the battery. There is nothing there to plug into it. 

The second thing is, the engine would not fire up no matter what I did. It is not getting fire to the plugs. 

I was afraid this might happen since the car would not fire up with the other engine. Any thoughts where I should start?


----------



## de-nagorg

Is there a fusible link in the ignition wire from the battery to the coil.


Maybe put a direct hot wire to the coil, if these modern computers on wheels won't fry the electronic brain that way.

It might have had a computer problem before, and needs a reset.

Some cars sense that something is bad, and won't run until the failure gets repaired, have you ran a diagnostic device through the electronic system looking for failure codes?

And some cars have a collision disconnect that keeps the car from starting after a minor accident, that needs reset.

Could guess for a while, but -----.




ED


----------



## BigJim

Ed the coils are each on top of the plugs. 

Is there a way to check the crank shaft sensor? I got a feeling it may be that but then that is just a wild guess.


----------



## de-nagorg

Maybe, some of those crank sensors are adjustable, and need a feeler gauge to set to specs. A manual should have that in a chart, or you might look it up online somewhere.

A test light should be of help to test it, because the crank turning causes a magnetic field to be broken, thus making a pulse to be generated.

At least the ones from 35 years ago did.


ED


----------



## Brainbucket

See if you have ignition coil fire and injector pulse. Scan PCM and see if it's awake. Check engine light come on when key is turned on? If light comes on, good sign and PCM is commanding it on. Check codes. It just maybe in theft mode.:vs_cool:


----------



## BigJim

Thanks buddy, I will check that in a little while. I fought with this blame computer for 4 hours last night then again this morning, finally got it back to abnormal. LOL Yesterday was just not a good day for me, except for getting finished on the install.


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> See if you have ignition coil fire and injector pulse. Scan PCM and see if it's awake. Check engine light come on when key is turned on? If light comes on, good sign and PCM is commanding it on. Check codes. It just maybe in theft mode.:vs_cool:


Can I read codes without the engine running?


----------



## Brainbucket

Yes. Ignition on, engine off.


----------



## BigJim

Brainbucket said:


> Yes. Ignition on, engine off.


Thanks Bb, I appreciate it.


----------



## BigJim

I plugged up the code reader and all I get from it with the key on is "No Link".

The check engine light will not come on. The oil, battery, door ajar light comes on but no check engine light.

I just watched a video how to test a crank/cam position sensor with a volt meter. These sensors have three prongs so I clipped on the two outside ones and set my meter to AC then moved a metal object back and forth against the sensor, no reading on either one of them. These two sensors are the ones on the old engine, not the one in the car now.

If I check the voltage coming from the coil lead and get no DC voltage. Do I check from the crank and cam sensors next? If no voltage there what do I check next?


----------



## BigJim

Behind the engine at the firewall, there is a body ground wire, if that wire is not connected would that keep the car from starting? I think I forgot to hook it up.


----------



## de-nagorg

The engine has to be grounded to the chassis, or it won't function .


ED


----------



## Brainbucket

Yep. Connect all grounds. Electricity got to have a path to flow. Sounds like PCM is not working.:vs_cool:


----------



## BigJim

Thanks Ed and Bb, I will go over the entire engine hopefully today and see if I missed anything. 

One thing that is a possibility, the fellow who owned the car was no mechanic. When the car was not running he tried changing out the fuel pump, since then, the gas gauge does not work. I will pull the pump to see if there are any wires messed up there. 

I will check the EMC relay to see if it is bad. I just hope the PCM or EMC which ever it is, isn't bad. I will let you know what I find.


----------



## BigJim

I couldn't find a ground wire that was not grounded. I couldn't get the fuel pump out because I don't have the little plastic things to take the fuel line loose yet. I didn't see any bad wires but it looks someone has put electrical tape there at the fuel pump fitting. I will check that out hopefully tomorrow.

After reading and checking, I am almost convinced it is the EMC and maybe more. With no check engine light, no sign of the anti theft light, the radiator cooling fan running the second the key is turned on and never stops. 

I have a question, from the EMC, what is the path to the coils. If I had to replace the EMC and everything up to the coils, what would that be? What would be the worst case scenario that I would need to replace?


----------



## BigJim

After a lot more testing and reading I am almost sure the ECM unit is shot.
I just got off the phone with the Nissan dealer, they will reprogram the ECM unit and install it for $120. I asked if they would program a used unit and they said they would, so that isn't as bad as I thought it would be. I found a blown headlight fuse and it looks like two fuses are missing from the fuse box under the dash for the fuel pump. I was told the fuel gauge didn't work so maybe that is why. I didn't think to ask the dealer how much a complete diagnosis would be. Maybe there is hope for this car after all.

I still have not found what plugs into that socket in front of the battery at the headlight. I have looked and can not find any ground wires I didn't connect so hopefully I got them all. I may go ahead and connect one from the engine to the firewall just in case.

I now need to get the two spark plug spacers for the pre-cat O2 sensor and get that installed. I think that first O2 sensor may be bad also, it sure is gunked up.


----------



## de-nagorg

Define gunk.

Carbon, oil, congealed anti-freeze.

Whatever it is it is causing the sensor to not work properly.


ED


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> Define gunk.
> 
> Carbon, oil, congealed anti-freeze.
> 
> Whatever it is it is causing the sensor to not work properly.
> 
> 
> ED


Ed, it looks like a white scale like junk. 

I gutted the catalytic converter and the only way to keep it from spitting a code is space the top O2 sensor away from the exhaust.


----------



## de-nagorg

BigJim said:


> Ed, it looks like a white scale like junk.
> 
> I gutted the catalytic converter and the only way to keep it from spitting a code is space the top O2 sensor away from the exhaust.


White scale type stuff is usually residues from a detergent added fuel.

Many refineries now add detergents, and other garbage to "help" clean the exhaust up.

In my opinion this crap is not needed, also could be ethanol residue, I personally buy the ethanol free at the local Maverick, because I know ethanol is bad for an engine over the long term.

Your gunk could still be what is causing the sensor to think that it's not functioning.


ED


----------



## BigJim

Thanks Ed, that is what I understand about the ethanol gas also, I hate that stuff.


----------



## BigJim

Any idea what this is, it is in the fuse box under the dash.


----------



## de-nagorg

Do a google search on the word and # on the thing.

Off hand Epicenter, is the origination point of an earthquake, but as pertaining to vehicles, I am clueless.

Doesn't seem to be plugged in much, maybe a disarmed security system that disables the ignition, Hmmm, maybe the starting problem.

As I suggested Google search that Word and # on the thing.



ED


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> Do a google search on the word and # on the thing.
> 
> Off hand Epicenter, is the origination point of an earthquake, but as pertaining to vehicles, I am clueless.
> 
> Doesn't seem to be plugged in much, maybe a disarmed security system that disables the ignition, Hmmm, maybe the starting problem.
> 
> As I suggested Google search that Word and # on the thing.
> 
> 
> 
> ED


It is the dash dimmer switch, that should be fun to re-plug in. Thanks for the suggestion, that is the reason you make the big bucks. LOL


----------



## de-nagorg

Dash dimmer?

I would be looking for screws to lay the dash console down and out from the framework, that way I get a better view of the circuitry in the back to know where to plug it back in.

I hate that laying upside down under a dash, I'm too big for one, and cars have gotten tiny, plus these old bones creak now.


ED


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> Dash dimmer?
> 
> I would be looking for screws to lay the dash console down and out from the framework, that way I get a better view of the circuitry in the back to know where to plug it back in.
> 
> I hate that laying upside down under a dash, I'm too big for one, and cars have gotten tiny, plus these old bones creak now.
> 
> 
> ED


Same here Ed, no way can I get under the dash like I use too. From what I read it just lights the back light in the instrument panel, looks like that won't get hooked back up.lol


----------



## de-nagorg

If it stays unhooked, the driver won't be able to see their speed at night, nor check the gauges.

I wonder why it is unhooked like that.

I see at least 4 plugs that light different areas.


ED


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> If it stays unhooked, the driver won't be able to see their speed at night, nor check the gauges.
> 
> I wonder why it is unhooked like that.
> 
> I see at least 4 plugs that light different areas.
> 
> 
> ED


Weeeell, I kinda picked it up to put back in and and two of them came unplugged one was already unhooked. Man you know how to put a guilt trip on someone, looks like I will be hooking it back up. :wallbash: :biggrin2:


----------



## de-nagorg

Not my intent to add a guilt trip, but to save a life maybe, or at least give the youngster a chance to not get as many speeding tickets as I have had.

There should be screws around the bezel that are easy to remove and see behind the panel to find all the prongs that need a plug on them to have illumination.

And you can sit and relax while doing this particular chore.


ED


----------



## BigJim

Well finally, we got the Nissan running this evening. Our grandson brought a buddy of his that works with him over with his diagnostic computer, in 5 minutes he had the car running like a champ. All he did was reset the car computer. I test drove the car and all is good. Our grandson and I are both happy campers.

I appreciate all of your help, thank you.


----------



## BigJim

de-nagorg said:


> Not my intent to add a guilt trip, but to save a life maybe, or at least give the youngster a chance to not get as many speeding tickets as I have had.
> 
> There should be screws around the bezel that are easy to remove and see behind the panel to find all the prongs that need a plug on them to have illumination.
> 
> And you can sit and relax while doing this particular chore.
> 
> 
> ED


Ed, we found out that thingie was just the panel back light, you can still see all the gauges without it, that makes me happy.


----------

