# extending roof overhangs - Moved to building & Construction



## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

My home has very little overhang, at some spots the gutters are right on the house. I want them extended to ad an aesthetic quality, and protection from damaging rain. 

It doesn't seem like a real difficult job. Just sistering the 2x6s three feet or so onto the existing members to code. What about the plywood, should I extend that back as well, or just apply it on the new sistered members?

I'm having the roof redone as soon as I complete this job, will it be ok exposed to maybe a rain or two or should I cover it all?

Any advice on how to go about the overhangs in general? Anyone been there? The house is a very simplistic ranch, lots of straight shots. No complex gables or anything. 


I plan to match the whole perimeter to the length of the overhang above the back door in the pictures. I'm hoping it will all blend together nicely. I plan to do the gable ends as well


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

anyone? 

Well is there a "standard" overhang length?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

It sounds like you want to extend the 'eaves' and create soffits, and also, extend the rake boards (on the gable sides).

Sure you can do that. Just bear in mind that when you continue the pitch of the roof out, you may overshadow the tops of your windows, or affect other trim components on the upper sides of your home (especially if you plan on returning the soffit 'flat').... So make sure you 'map' it all out well, before you start ripping anything apart....
You would have to remove your existing gutters on the areas to be changed. Then remove the existing trim boards. You can try to do that in such a way that you might be able to salvage some of the boards for re-use.
Once you get your design down, you will need rough framing members to 'box out' the soffits. 
Then match the material that is used for your existing soffits. 
You will need to attach plywood on the roof sides, and appropriate pre-primed pine as needed to the other areas as well (face of the soffits and trim areas)....to finish them off.
Essentially, it's the same approach with the rake boards...


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Why not put a gable dormer over the entrance with supporting posts? You can only extend so far without some sort of vertical supports. How far depends on the usual local codes.
House could use a formal entrance. Seems sort of lost on the wall.
Ron


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

well the next job after this is residing the whole house, so i'm not worried about trashing any trim right now. 

now the plywood on the roofside, do i have to use a full sheet, replacing a but of the existing plywood to give it rigidity? Or can I just put a 12" or so strip over the new area? That sounds like it might be unsafe for a roofer down the line if they stand on it?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I honestly do not know if there is a code precaution to consider for only a 12" wide section of cdx sheathing, but from practical experience, I would not cut any sheet less than 24" wide for stability. 

The 12" pieces have too much spring and bounce to them and feel like they are about to crack under foot.

Ed


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## ColoradoBuilder (May 10, 2007)

When extending rafters the rule of 2 to 1 is usually sound. This meaning that if you plan on extending the rafter 12 inches you should extend the sister 24 inches from the bottom of the old rafter up.

The eaves probably will be the easiest to extend because getting proper nailing on the existing rafters will likely be relatively easy. Extending the gables may be difficult because you most likely will have to cut through the barge rafter and getting nails in the first common rafter might be hard. 

As far as adding new sheathing this will be the least of your problems. Whether you extend the fascia 12 or 24 inches you can put blocking at the intersection of the new/old sheathing and will be fine. You could probably get away with just adding plywood clips at this joint and be fine too. 

This is a huge job. There are alot of factors and variables here. And to really help, a person would need to know specifics on exactly what you are trying to do and exactly what is there now. This is the kind of job that would take me alot of investigating and planning to even guess what is the right way. Anyway, good luck on it!


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

Well I guess I'll work on the eaves for now.


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## bringmore (Jul 26, 2009)

*increasing roof overhang*

I have the same problem, but instead of ripping off old sheathing and installing new, wider sheathing, I've come up with a simpler, cheaper alternative. My house could qualify as an Arts and Crafts house, but with no overhang, it looks like an orphan with a bad haircut. I had intended to install triangular supports along the vertical walls perpendicular to the rafters, rip the roof sheathing and sister up the rafters so that I could install good extended sheathing some 12 to 18" out. I"m going with something much simpler, provided the city doesn't object. I intend to replace my trim below the roof, which extends about an inch from the wall but is about 10" in width, with trim that is much like crown moulding. Built up from 2 by lumber, I should be able to install attractive, routered or shapered trim that will look reasonable and appropriate. Since it will all be screwed into the vertical walls of the house, I avoid the sheathing issue. I won't be able to extend as much, but it will be far simpler and cheaper. I should be able to extend, depending on the style I select, anywhere from 3" to 6". Just extend the felt to the new width, put on the drip edge, and shingle away. Just a thought.


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## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

I am in the process of doing this also.

did eaves first and cut birdsmouth in extended rafters. Then turned them in place easier than I thought it may be. Where it was tougher and I used SOME 10' extenstions total to help correct some roof sway back I used a pipe wrench to put max pressure on them and a 3# hammer to coax them around!! but those were getting turned into place on both ends at once.

Now my main problem is the gable ends which I am doing next. I have a trim 2 x 4 now on outide of sheathing,which is coming off. then I have 3/4" older chip lap sheathing, inside of the is 2 X 4 actual end rafter. Can I install those 2 x 4 supports flat if I am only coming out 10 inches?? and they will be stuck IN to the next rafter,,,aprox 22-24 inches. How is BEST way to cut that 1 5/87 " deep by 3 5/8" slot in sheathing and outside rafter sheathing is nailed to?? (trying to NOT remove roofing material at THIS point.

How close should spacing be up the gable end?? Roof sheathing is going to be 3/4" also since same shiplap sheathing??(it is a total run of about 13 feet)

OR other option is to use flat 2 X 6's as gable end supports.

House is getting vinyl siding and alum. soffits all around!!

what is proper saw for cutting those gable end slots??A recip saw so in case I hit nails?? Or start it with a cicle saw with those blades they show cutting right thru nails at the store??

After I get them installed i am ripping off old shingles and nailing sheathing to extenstions all around!! Is there an easier way??For a one person diy project? probably could protect both ends of house by using some black felt paper!!(while open)


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