# Wire suitable for underwater usage



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Since its low voltage, most any cable or cord would work. SOW cable is rated for wet locations. Get the lamp, connect it and drop it into the water. Try out a few combinations of cord and connectors to get what you like best.
What kind of fishing are you doing?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

J. V. said:


> What kind of fishing are you doing?


JV, You are from SC, you must have heard about using a magneto to go catfishing.:laughing:


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

J. V. said:


> Since its low voltage, most any cable or cord would work. SOW cable is rated for wet locations. Get the lamp, connect it and drop it into the water. Try out a few combinations of cord and connectors to get what you like best.
> What kind of fishing are you doing?


Thanks for the reply. I understand that running high voltage AC isn't the same 12V DC, but isn't the major difference between cables rated for indoor use vs outdoor use the permeability of their insulation? And, are you saying that since it is low-voltage DC, that if water permeates the insulation it won't matter? If that's the case, I would assume that regular 16ga hookup wire (auto/marine) would be sufficient, correct? If so, I may do that and use heat shrink tubing every couple feet.

SOOW cables look pretty expensive...$200 for 100 ft. 

I'll be using it for both freshwater and saltwater fishing off the kayak. I'm two hours from Chesapeake, and right down the road from a nice reservoir that holds crappie, perch, bass, pike, bluegill and catfish. And eels.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7R0sEFksGCQ


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

There not all that expencive to buy.
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/prod...ferralID=853e8677-8593-11e1-a6d5-001b2166c62d

Why do you need it to sink, the one I had on my boat floated like this one and worked great. Once it drew in the bait fish the big ones came in to eat them.


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

liquid electric tape, marine wire 16 gauge. Why not buy underwater lights from Killer & Griller? 
http://www.thehulltruth.com/fishing...water-t-top-led-lights-video-added-cheap.html


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

The lights posted are toys compared to what I am building. What I am making has 612 SMD LEDs. 2-5 ft depth ensures maximum light dispersion in the water.


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## a_lost_shadow (Dec 18, 2011)

Quick question, what's the combined amp draw of those 612 LEDs?

Also it looks like marine wire may hold up to water and vibration better than auto wire.


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

I have 3 sets for underwater and they throw out a real beam on the canyons off New Jersey and bring up plenty of squid, macks a the tuna follow.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

The part that would worry me a little bit, is connecting the wire to the "fixture". If you are moving with the light in the water, I could see water leaking into the housing. We commonly use some weather proof cord connectors, but I'm not sure how they'd work submerged, in a moving craft.


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## rrolleston (Oct 17, 2011)

PVC conduit with a threaded fitting on the end get a clear plastic jar with plastic top. Drill a hole in the top put some silicone around the hole and tighten a lock nut onto the threaded fitting. unscrew the top and install your lights. If water gets in silicone the top on the jar.


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## mpoulton (Jul 23, 2009)

612 LED's? If they are anywhere near the current state of the art for high power LED's, then that's likely to be several hundred watts. 20-30A at 12V, maybe. This will require some heavy wire. Cooling of the LED's will be a significant problem. If it's not several hundred watts, then you need better LED's and fewer of them! Do you have a link to the LED product you're using?


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

a_lost_shadow said:


> Quick question, what's the combined amp draw of those 612 LEDs?
> 
> Also it looks like marine wire may hold up to water and vibration better than auto wire.


Amp draw is .4 per light. If I wire in parallel, the combined draw will be 2.4 amps.



CaptRandy said:


> Why not buy underwater lights from Killer & Griller?
> http://www.thehulltruth.com/fishing...water-t-top-led-lights-video-added-cheap.html


Because I am not going to rig them directly to my kayak, and I want the package to be versatile enough for simple dock fishing if needed.



k_buz said:


> The part that would worry me a little bit, is connecting the wire to the "fixture". If you are moving with the light in the water, I could see water leaking into the housing. We commonly use some weather proof cord connectors, but I'm not sure how they'd work submerged, in a moving craft.


The fixture will be a transparent green acrylic tube filled with the LEDs. The tube will be sealed and water tight, and the wiring will be done so that no stress will be put on the actual seal.



mpoulton said:


> 612 LED's? If they are anywhere near the current state of the art for high power LED's, then that's likely to be several hundred watts. 20-30A at 12V, maybe. This will require some heavy wire. Cooling of the LED's will be a significant problem. If it's not several hundred watts, then you need better LED's and fewer of them! Do you have a link to the LED product you're using?


I'm not using LEDs suitable for stage lighting, dude. I'm using LEDs configured for 12V that will throw a beam 360 degrees. I'm using 6 of these:

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-New-H7-5w-102-smd-Led-6500k-460-lumen-White-Fog-Lights-For-Car-(pair)-p-29230.html

This is very similar to what I am building:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivMrE9ruczY&feature=related


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

Like this?
http://www.hydroglow.com/


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

CaptRandy said:


> Like this?
> http://www.hydroglow.com/


Yes, but more similar to the link I posted:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivMrE9ruczY

Making one like the hydroglow was too cost prohibitive because of the number of LEDs that come on the strip they use at one time. I like that design better because it utilizes a green LED, so you are not losing any light transmission when filtering white LEDs thru a green tube like I am. Still, mine will be plenty bright.


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

Is your's about 12-18" long?


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## mpoulton (Jul 23, 2009)

So that's 30W, or 2.5A. No big deal. Pretty inefficient for modern LED's, but cheap enough I suppose.


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

CaptRandy said:


> Is your's about 12-18" long?


It will be in that range, yes. I haven't built the thing yet, so I'm not exactly sure (in the final stages of gathering parts). Since I had to buy 6' of acrylic tubing at one time, I will build more once I've got mine completed (until the excess tubing has been used up). I'll sell them just a little over actual cost. PM me if interested. 

When I found out I could get those "bulbs" for approx $3.50 each, I wasn't about to pay $150 for one of these things. 



mpoulton said:


> So that's 30W, or 2.5A. No big deal. Pretty inefficient for modern LED's, but cheap enough I suppose.


And what would you use if you were building a cylinderacal submersible fishing light?


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

Wow, $3.50, we are paying $10+ for 1156 style bulbs for running lights


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

CaptRandy said:


> Wow, $3.50, we are paying $10+ for 1156 style bulbs for running lights


Ebay is the key. Approx $3.50/piece. Usually direct from China...shipping takes 2-3 weeks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2Pcs-Warm-White-BA15s-1156-1210-68-SMD-LED-Car-Turn-Tail-Signal-Light-lamp-Bulb-/150791732751?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item231be33e0f#ht_4095wt_917


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

Do they work well and hold up to shaking? Boats do take a pounding.


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## mpoulton (Jul 23, 2009)

7.62 said:


> When I found out I could get those "bulbs" for approx $3.50 each, I wasn't about to pay $150 for one of these things.
> 
> 
> 
> And what would you use if you were building a cylinderacal submersible fishing light?


At that price, I'd use those. Heck, at that price I'd use those for everything.


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

CaptRandy said:


> Do they work well and hold up to shaking? Boats do take a pounding.


Mine aren't labeled as "1156s", but I don't see why any of them wouldn't hold up well. The LED "bulbs" are "wired" like PCBs. I could not tell you the manufacturer of the ones I have, but I have put them thru hell and they still test fine. Check out the link I posted earlier (of the bulbs that are similar to the ones I have), and you'll notice a flange around the base of the bulb, just above the terminal connections. I had to get rid of the flange to get the bulbs to fit in my tube. At first, I took wire snips to them. But that left the edge too rough, so I took a Dremel on 10 to them to cut more metal off and smooth them out. I hit individual LEDs several times and they still light up. 

Go to Ebay and just type "1156 bulb" and see what comes up. Check out the prices, quantity per "auction" and see if there are any shipping charges. Also, check out seller feedback. I'm sure you'll find some good deals. Even if the bulbs crash earlier than you would have liked, you won't have spent much experimenting.

Also, given that LEDs usually have a life of 50K hours, I find it interesting that this is a cost you're concerned with. Are you have to replace them that often? That's like having them on for 5 years straight.


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## CaptRandy (Nov 9, 2011)

7.62, thanks for the info will check it out and order like you suggested.


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