# Need Help Bypass Dryer Door Switch



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Have you shopped e-bay?

It's just an on - off switch, transferring power to the light when open , ( useless) , leave it un plugged , or the motor when closed. 

Look to see which wires go to what element, motor, or light. 

leave the light unplugged, wire the motor direct to the power wire, probably red to red, look to see.

Test it for function, and remember that it is not a perfect factory machine anymore. 


ED


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

Do you have a wiring diagram. 

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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Is it this part that's FUBAR, or the actual electrics?


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## gregger (Oct 21, 2006)

Hi all, 

Thanks for the advice.

de-nagorg, I have made a go at eBay but at the moment do not see that switch anywhere. Will keep researching. I totally understand this machine won't be perfect; already told my wife, you can forget about the interior light!

Huesmann, the lever actuator is fine. I believe it's the switch that's going bad because even after it "clicks," the circuit does not close for an additional amount of travel, and the spot along that travel where it closes is erratic. Maybe I could pry the switch case open to see where it's gone bad.

I will try to locate the wiring diagram, to help sort out what the five terminals go to. I'll let you know what I find. Thank you!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Sears Parts Direct used to advertise parts for everything ever made.

But I'm not sure that they even exist lately, after the big Bankruptcy of Sears Holding. 

Might try them, if you can find them.


ED


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## gregger (Oct 21, 2006)

Okay gents, found the wiring diagram tucked away in the console. Pretty nice booklet; printed on Tyvek to last.

If I'm reading it correctly, I need to jump the door switch in order to connect wires connected at D1 and D3; in other words, connect the dark blue and orange wires. 

Correct?

Naturally I will lose ability to light up the drum light (red wire at D4).

Unrelated topic: Looking at the diagram it appears the door switch, when closed, connects ground to the control board (between D2 and D5). Why would they make the ground switchable?


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## gregger (Oct 21, 2006)

de-nagorg said:


> Sears Parts Direct used to advertise parts for everything ever made.




Yep, they're still around, and the number "hits" on a search there. But like the Whirlpool site itself, and everyone else's, Sears declares the part is no longer made, there is no substitute, and they could not be of assistance if I were to contact them.

I think my "best" bet is to track it down via used appliance parts guys, who are not the best at posting inventory on the web. Until then, I'll have to live with the bypass.


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

D1-d3 would jump the door switch. Try leaving the other wire hooked up and your drum light may still operate properly

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## gregger (Oct 21, 2006)

spitz, you may be right; in my testing, the light was controlled more reliably than the motor. 

Thanks much.


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

The full load of the drive motor goes thru the contacts of the door switch. I'd imagine they are shot. The other contacts in the switch for the light bulb probably look like new. 

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## gregger (Oct 21, 2006)

spitz1234 said:


> The full load of the drive motor goes thru the contacts of the door switch. I'd imagine they are shot.


Hard to imagine why...they've only been used regularly since 1989! :wink2:

I've repaired this dryer a number of times...gas valve solenoids, other electrical bits, the various moving parts. It's built like a tank. I would replace it if I had any faith that today's clothes dryers are made as well. Same for the matching washer.


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## gregger (Oct 21, 2006)

Well I jumped D1 to D3 and surprisingly, the door switch now works reliably to interrupt the motor, and the drum light stays out. I need to completely follow the orange and red wires to be sure I understand where the heck they go. At least the dryer runs!


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