# Attaching Lower Cabinet Moulding?



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

I've got a question on how to install lower cabinet moulding. I've got full face frame cabinets so attaching the mouling along the front is easy. My problem comes when I need to attach the end mouldings. The ends of the cabinets are 1/2" plywood. My moulding is basically 3/4" wide by 1.5" tall with a small 45* on the bottom. Screwing or nailing into the end of plywood just doesnt seem right to me. Any ideas would be great. Thanks


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

This is why they invented brad nailers.. one more neat toy to buy


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## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

I have a Paslode finish nailer. So you recommend driving a finish nail up from the bottom all the way through the 1.5" of moulding into the 1/2" plywood?


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

I usually install the light rail molding "flat-wise"...(if that's a word) on the cabinet....not on edge. So you would only be shooting through the 3/4" thickness. If I wered doing it your way, I would use an adhesive..probably latex caulking, and glue the molding in place, then use blue painter's tape to hold it while the adhesive dries.


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## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

This is what i've got for the lower moulding. I'm open to attachment suggestions. The bottom side as it sits in the picture is unfinished, the other 3 sides are finished.


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## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

I think I would install it as I initially suggested. That would be just the way it sits in your picture. Just lift it straight up and nail it on to the bottom of the uppers. Flush the back edge to the inside edge of the faceframes. That method will leave the front (beveled) edge of the molding close to flush with the face of the closed cabinet doors. The only possible problem you will have is where your range-hood or microwave/vent combo is. The over-hanging molding will interfere with the fit of those items if you intended to wrap the molding around the sides of the cabinet as you stated. You would have to just butt the molding into the side of the micro or range hood...no biggie. It will actually save you a little work. If you have other areas to wrap, I would suggest using the adhesive/tape method I mentioned earlier. Good luck, and Happy Thanksgiving.


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## Kingfisher (Nov 19, 2007)

Bought a 23 ga. pin nailer when I did my own kitchen from Harbour Freight for $16  worked great and is still going strong best deal ever:thumbup: . The nails are so small you don't even need to putty them, it is what all cabinet installer use for moldings.


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## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

Kingfisher said:


> Bought a 23 ga. pin nailer when I did my own kitchen from Harbour Freight for $16  worked great and is still going strong best deal ever:thumbup: . The nails are so small you don't even need to putty them, it is what all cabinet installer use for moldings.


 
But im still not sure how i'd fasten it on the sides with nails or screws. My cabinets have a 3/4" over hang all the way around on the bottom so all that sticks down on the sides is 1/2" plywood. I'm not sure if I need to add some blocking on the bottom of the cabinet so I can nail the moulding in from the sides. I just dont want to put a nail somewhere I dont really need it to be and have it be visible.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Where are you putting this molding, on the cabinet bottom as a light rail? How is the molding being orientated on the cabinet? As a typical light rail, long side down? Are you recessing the molding back from the cabinet front and sides or is if flush to the faceframe and sides.
How and where it sits will dictate how it gets applied.
Ron


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