# Caulking Vinyl Windows in brick



## woodworkbykirk

the best type of caulking to use for this situation is a polybutyl caulking it creates a much better seal and sticks very well.. quad works great so does most of the sidings made by Mulco "flextra, flex 9000" avoid dap brands of caulking their terrible the only thing i use by them is the actual dap which is for interior trim

as for application, use a caulking gun with a 1/4" tip cut on the nose of the tube, i find a small bottle of warm water with some dish soap mixed into it works wonders so when you run your finger along it to smooth out the bead it doesnt stick to your finger, water alone wont work


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## concretemasonry

I would clean the old brick before trying to get a good caulk job, no matter what caulk is used.

Dick


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## HomeSealed

Both comments above are good advice, especially to get that brick cleaned up. Personally I like quad. Thousands of windows installed and it has not done me wrong.


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## joecaption

Ha window guys, take another look at the way that window was installed.
Looks like it was sat to far back in the frame or the brick was sat to far out from the window and it's not all the way under it so now water can run behind the wall in the morter joints and around the window frame.
A bead of caulking will be so close to the drains it looks like it will block them up.


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## Doorman54

Another vote here for the Quad. 
We use it at work. Flows smoothly, sticks well (when surface is clean), tools easily and when it cures it's pliable AND strong. 

Of course when I'm at work and getting paid to caulk it's beautiful.....at home I seem to make a mess of it!!


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## rightit

Thank you for the recommendations for caulk. I was kind of leaning toward the Quad after more research. 

joecaption: 
Good catch. The reality is that, although I told the window company I ordered from that it was going in a wall that was to receive brick, this is what they gave me. Being inexperienced, I didn't even know until the brick guy told me it wasnt' the right window fro brick (after the brick was up...). 


Short of ordering a new window, removing the brick, reinstalling the window and re-bricking, can anyone offer suggestions as to how to best solve the issue?


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## rightit

Is it the wrong window? Regardless, after reading joecaption's response, I took a closer look. One of the joints was falling apart, so I removed that brick. The sill is about 3/4" off of the window flange, but maybe that's how it's supposed to be. The problem is worse than I thought. Here are images:


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## rightit

Hi, me again . Should my last questions be addressed to the Concrete, Stone and Masonry forum? 

When I ordered this window, I specified that I was installing brick, and I can't find anything in the documentation or the manufacturer's website stating that this window is not designed for brick. Also, it was installed with 1x4's behind the nailer to accomodate the brick. However, it seems to me that the sill bricks should have been cut a bit longer (even if just 1/2") to allow them to fit _under_ the window frame to provide a solid surface for caulking rather than a gap. It also seems to me (for what that's worth...) that even if it's not designed for brick, it can still be made to work. Any help is appreciated. Thank you.


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## cleveman

I don't see a problem. First of all, the caulk is your primary defense against water. As water leaks in there, the secondary system (flashing) will take it away.

I'm not the guy to preach on this, but that window should have brick moulding around it. I've installed them without brick moulding, as you have done, and I know I can get sashes and what not for them. However, when it fails or it fails and you can't get parts anymore, it would be good to be able to replace the window at the flange.

In the meantime, I would just clean the window and brickwork, as I have seen you do in another post, then caulk it with the 9000 stuff. I think you should go with black or bronze or whatever they call it. The soap trick is good. I spray it on with a small spray bottle, then smear with my finger. Keep plenty of paper towels handy.


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## MJW

IMO, That type of install should have a buck around the opening. I don't care for windows that close to brick. The only option for replacement is an insert window.

2x6 buck around the opening. New construction window, then trim the outside. Brick mould will work if you like that, but there are other options too.


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## Tom Struble

i wouldn't even attempt to caulk the bottom the way it is now,maybe pull the row lock and replace with a thinner stone so you have some room to install some flashing under the lower flange and over the top of the new sill


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## rightit

Thank you again for your suggestions. At the moment, I'm not sure _what_ to do with it. I do know I'm not comfortable just caulking over it. The brick guy is _supposed_ to look at it today, but although he seems to do good work (other than the sill...), my experience with him leaves me doubtful that he'll say anything other than it's OK, at which point I'll thank him for his time and decide what to do next. 

Assuming I haven't worn out my welcome, I'll post back after I've talked to him. Thanks!


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## cleveman

Brick can be cut as well. I didn't look too closely, but if you take off some, you'll have 3/8" on the bottom and maybe a 1/4" on the top. I've made the angle cut on a saw as well. I think it makes it easier if all the brick are the same size, and this isn't going to happen with a hammer.


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## rightit

Well, the brick guy didn't follow through. I'm not really surprised, but have grown tired of the way contractors do business in this region. Integrity in work and customer service are a rare find. At any rate, I've done most of the work on this project myself, so I guess I'll resolve this issue as well. I'd feel a lot better if there were some brick underneath the frame, but at this point, I just don't have the time to break them all out, cut and reinstall, so I guess flashing would be the next best thing. Actually, the sill bricks aren't going anywhere. I could always break them out and redo them at some point in the future if it becomes an issue. I have plenty of original brick and it will give me time to 'practice' laying it (with brick other than my original, that is...).

So, there seems to be enough room to slide some kind of flashing between the window and the sill. The question is, how should I do it? I'm thinking that I could get a narrow strip of white aluminum, slide it under, gently pry up and run a bead _under_ the flashing to keep it in place on the brick sill, then two more beads, one to seal the flashing to the bottom edge of the window, the other to seal between the outsinde edge of the flashing to the sill. The flashing would need to be pretty narrow, maybe just 1/4 - 1/2" sticking out onto the sill, as I'd like to avoid the white-trash look.

Does anyone have any better ideas for strategy _or_ method? Again, thanks for the ideas and suggestions. At this point, it's a real lifeline. Also, most of the mortar joints on the top of the sill aren't trenched. Does that matter?

Below is an image of the window with a bit of temporary flashing, as we might get some light rain tonight:


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## Tom Struble

are the windows under an overhang?if so i don't think i'd be all that worried about it


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## hammerlane

rightit said:


> Short of ordering a new window, removing the brick, reinstalling the window and re-bricking, can anyone offer suggestions as to how to best solve the issue?


I use to have rowlocks for my window sills on the front brick veneer of my home. The mortar joints between the rowlocks leaked and without the proper flashing behind water ran under window and into house.


My solution was to eliminate the rowlocks for window sills and replace with limestone.


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## rightit

Hi Tom,

Great idea! The caveat is that I would need to replace all the sills on the front of the house, and I'm pressured to finsh this project (my office) before my busy season starts. That does seem like a great project for the near future, though. It also makes me feel a bit better about the current issue, as planning to replace all of the sills means that the current sill is temporary. I could live with that. Thanks!

And yes, the window _is_ under an eve, but facing west in a stormy climate, so the sill is exposed to often heavy rain and wind.

Also, the good news in all of this is that I "super flashed" my window (and under the tyvek to the brick ledge), so if water _does_ get it, it's not likely to get in the house:


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## Tom Struble

thing is i don't think the small amount of caulk your going to be able to get into that narrow crack is going to do much for you,proper caulk width for quad would be 1/4-3/8'' over backer rod

you can do the metal flashing if it makes you feel better,lead would probably be best as it's easier to ''dress'' it down tight to the brick


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## rightit

Thanks so much to those who contributed. Due to my schedule, I wound up taking the simplest route. I stuffed backer rod into the gaps and troweled mortar over them. Then I mortared in the brick I removed. It came out fine. I'll be on a job the next few days, but hope to wash the brick Fri. or Sat, after which I'll caulk. OSI Quad and Flex 9000 seem to be the caulk of choice. If there's no reason to pick one over the other, I'll just pick up some Quad from Lowes. I appreciate all the information and learned a lot from your responses. Thank you!


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