# Garage Door Opener Ceiling Screws Loose



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Do you have access to an attic above the garage? If you do you need to lay a 2x4 or plywood across the ones there, and run up a longer bolt and nut from the bracket.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

When he said '2x4', he was referring to a ceiling joist. Just poor description. Do you have access to the attic space above the garage? If so, you need to get up there and see if you can see where the screw (lag bolt) is missing the joist. Then redrill the metal hanging bracket where it will hit center of the joist.

Ideally you would use a stud finder to locate the joist. But from your last sentence, I suspect you don't have a stud finder.


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

Mike Milam said:


> When he said '2x4', he was referring to a ceiling joist. Just poor description. Do you have access to the attic space above the garage? If so, you need to get up there and see if you can see where the screw (lag bolt) is missing the joist. Then redrill the metal hanging bracket where it will hit center of the joist.
> 
> Ideally you would use a stud finder to locate the joist. But from your last sentence, I suspect you don't have a stud finder.


I do have a stud finder. But I can't see how it would help. All the holes next to the original hole are drywall. I can't use any other hole...

And I don't think I have access to the attic space...

Still trying to find a solution....


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

The drywall is screwed into the joists. (google floor joists) So where you see the drywall screws and mud, is where your joists are. Probably 2x10's or similar on 16" centers. A joist is 1.5 inches wide, so putting a screw a little bit to either side of the joist will miss it entirely. From here, looks like the middle hole of your three attempts, should be on the joist. 

As mentioned, best if you have access to above to see what is happening up there, but in all likelihood, you simply just stripped the hole. Fill it with a few wooden toothpicks and white glue, and put the bigger screw back in. (That first screw doesn't even look like a wood screw).


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

A contractor friend came by to check it out. He confirm there is no wood. He said there is a sound proofing layer which is a thin layer of metal sheet. At this point, the screws can fail sooner or later. I need to have an emergency solution in case they do -- I need to somehow support that big heavy ceiling light when the screws fail.

One idea is to do two new screws, one on the left, one right, close to the light and use a wire to attach the screws and the holes in the light, one on the left, one right.

Hopefully when the old screws fail, the new screws can hold up the light, for a little while.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

The thin metal maybe metal resilient channel. Search for images. You're following the drywall screws but they are offset from the joists above. Make holes to both sides about 1.5" and explore for wood. You need to find the centers of these joists, predrill then drive the bolts in. Bolts have to resist the motor movement so at least 2" in the wood. Don't crush the metal channel. If you are not in the center, bolts can split the edge of the joists and ruin the placement.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

The 'original' screw you posted a picture of is a self tapping sheet metal screw. That indicates to me the installer of the opener didn't maker an effort to find the joist and used sheet metal screws into the thin sheet metal your referring to. Which of course is totally unacceptable. You are going to have to find the joist or one day that opener is going to be on the roof of your vehicle or worse, on someone's head.


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

I think in order for me to find the joist, I need to cut the ceiling open to see how it operates inside.

I bought the house new in 2009 from Signature Homes. I reported the screws dropping to them and they said it's out of their 1 year warranty. Are they right such an issue is only for 1 year?


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

carpdad said:


> The thin metal maybe metal resilient channel. Search for images. You're following the drywall screws but they are offset from the joists above. Make holes to both sides about 1.5" and explore for wood. You need to find the centers of these joists, predrill then drive the bolts in. Bolts have to resist the motor movement so at least 2" in the wood. Don't crush the metal channel. If you are not in the center, bolts can split the edge of the joists and ruin the placement.


If now the garage door opener is attached to resilient channel like









And if I want to attach it to a joist, I need to relocate the metal thingy with many holes in the ceiling (what is that called) right?

Then I need a different pole for the opener? Or I need to use a different opener? (Because the length will be different right?)


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

The more I think about this. How do you find a joist when resilient channel is in between the drywall and joist, and you can't see inside? What do people do in this setting? Do they attach the garage door opener to the resilient channel?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The failure was caused by high speed construction with an impact gun stripping the threads the self tapping screw made in the channel. Now you must slow way down and take about 10 X longer to correct the screw up with a 1/4"- 28 thread hex head cap screw / Nylok nut combination in the original hole.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

It may not be what others would do, but I would cut a 6 inch square hole in the drywall next to the opener and see exactly what's going on up there. Guess work makes for a long repair process and hazards along the way. Do it right the first time. I can't think of a good reason for resilient tracking in a garage. That's usually reserved for a basement or a home theater.


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## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

I would get some pieces of angle iron and attach them to the joists and attach the angle iron that is now screwed to the ceiling to them. But first, in order to know what type of set up you will need, you will have to see where the joists are. You can cut a small section of the ceiling and/or get an inspection camera so you can see what you have to work with joist-wise. You can get an inspection camera for not a lot of $ and they come in handy....especially when you need one to see what is going on in a ceiling or behind a wall.


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## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

Mike Milam said:


> It may not be what others would do, but I would cut a 6 inch square hole in the drywall next to the opener and see exactly what's going on up there. Guess work makes for a long repair process and hazards along the way. Do it right the first time. I can't think of a good reason for resilient tracking in a garage. That's usually reserved for a basement or a home theater.


As Mike said, open the ceiling. Using your stud finder, find the closest stud. Sometimes you can "see" the nail holes in the sheet rock. Use a square, or piece of wood to scribe (mark) the ceiling. Mark a rectangle, using a sheet rock saw to open the hole. Find the closest 2 x 4. You may need to make a large hole so you can stick you head into the ceiling and see where the studs are. If so, think about making a hole from stud to stud. Your picture shows the metal that is supposed hold your garage opener. The opener needs to be supported using wood screws or lag screws http://home.howstuffworks.com/lag-screws.htm. the original install was a poor job, and I am surprised you have not had problems before. 

Best part, you get to buy new tools. 

If you can access the space above the sheet rock, you can lay a piece of plywood or 2 x 4's above the trusses in the ceiling. Screw them down and run screws or lag screws into the plywood or 2 x 4's to hold the metal straps that are falling off the sheet rock. Or you can lay 2 x 4 studs on the sheet rock. Use L brackets to hold the 2 x 4's in place. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Corner-Brace-4-Pack-15304/202033892


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I doubt your framing looks like the photo in post 10.

Photo 1 in first post seems to show a beam. Joists will be at right angle to the beam. 

Seems strange to me too that you have resilient tracking in garage. I suppose it is possible that they run in-line with (directly under) the joists. If that were the case, if you put a long nail or coat-hanger wire through the original hole, the nail would freely go up for a couple of inches and then hit the joist.

As the other fellows have said --- cut a hole in the drywall.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

SPS-1 said:


> I doubt your framing looks like the photo in post 10.


 I'm also confused what's there for sure. Like said on Shark Tank, I'm Out.:biggrin2:


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

I agree, make a hole, just big enough to slip your hand through with a cellphone camera with a flash in it. Shoot four directions, remembering the direction sequence.
Don't draw the saw through more than an inch or so, because there will be wires up there for the GDO plugin. Save the sheetrock slug for repairs later.


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

I think opening the ceiling and take a look is the sure way to go. But do you think I can do it myself as someone has never done any construction work? It sounds to be a pretty big job for a newbie.

I have recorded how my garage door opener currently operates: 




At 0:07, the rod pushes the ceiling attachment inward a little bit. Overtime, will this make the bolt loose even when it's attached to the joist?


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

JIMMIEM said:


> I would get some pieces of angle iron and attach them to the joists and attach the angle iron that is now screwed to the ceiling to them. But first, in order to know what type of set up you will need, you will have to see where the joists are. You can cut a small section of the ceiling and/or get an inspection camera so you can see what you have to work with joist-wise. You can get an inspection camera for not a lot of $ and they come in handy....especially when you need one to see what is going on in a ceiling or behind a wall.


The idea of an inspection camera is that I only need to cut a small hole right? Will I be able to see things clearly with it though?

I did a quick search and found this one on the lower end: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908

Will something like this work?


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

3" hole or 12" hole, its about the same amount of work to replace the drywall. Something tells me you are going to destroy the plug, so mark and cut straight square lines. It will be easier to make a plug.


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## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

diy2017 said:


> The idea of an inspection camera is that I only need to cut a small hole right? Will I be able to see things clearly with it though?
> 
> I did a quick search and found this one on the lower end: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Micro-CA25-Inspection-Camera-40043/203258908
> 
> Will something like this work?


Yes. You can one for even less $ at Harbor Freight. It has it's own light so everything will be quite clear. Cell phone camera would work too but the inspection camera will let you see on the screen whatever you aim it toward. Depending on location of the joists you may end up cutting a larger hole to do the work but checking things out with the inspection camera will at least insure that you will be in the correct location. If/when you do cut out a patch make the cut lines as straight as possible so the repair will be easier.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

_I did a quick search and found this one on the lower end: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Mi...0043/203258908

Will something like this work?_

Way too much. Look on Amazon for "USB endoscope camera", which will plug into a laptop.


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## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

ChuckF. said:


> _I did a quick search and found this one on the lower end: http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-Mi...0043/203258908
> 
> Will something like this work?_
> 
> Way too much. Look on Amazon for "USB endoscope camera", which will plug into a laptop.


Harbor Freight has one for less $. The only problem with the laptop setup is you have to hold the laptop and the flexible arm....not much fun standing on a ladder trying to do it yourself.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Once you have the opener secured, go to the 'How to' section of this forum and see 'Sir MixAlot 's' video's on repairing drywall.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Sorry, forgot where this post was. See the image. Also assuming I'm looking at a beam and joists rest on it.
Someone already asked if channels may be installed along the joists, not across them. If RC1 channels were installed that way, and drywalls screwed to the channel flanges, then the screws you can see will be offset from the joists.
So drill/punch 8d finish nail size hole next to the screws and poke around with a wire. You may have to push through insulation and such but you will be able to tell which is wood. You may have to make several holes to locate the center but easy enough to spackle.
Also, my pov may be fault. Is it possible the screw direction is with the beam (across joists). Also depend on frames. 
If you can't, hire a carpenter.:smile:


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## diy2017 (Aug 19, 2017)

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I have two screws to deal with, one on the left:








and one on the right:









So I need to cut two holes right?

I have marked the possible holes I can cut. I am thinking hole #1 for the left side and hole #5 on the right side. Or should I cut the holes a little farther from the white stripe/resilient channel?

Also, Is it necessary to patch the holes?


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Looks like a plan. Yes, the holes need to be patched for safety reasons. Chemical fumes from the car and other 'garage' type things can't be allowed in the common attic space.


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