# Basement Bathroom Rough In Questions



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

1. The 3' does not need to be above the flow line.
2. Vents do need to be above the flow line
3. When you stub the 3" up for the toilet, put 3 or 4 wraps of sill seal around it and pour the floor. After you have the finish flooring down, remove the sill seal, cut the riser off and glue on the flange. The hub will slide into the void left by the sill seal.
Please do upload a sketch. Interested in how you will vent the toilet


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## Mike Fox (Nov 6, 2011)

Here is my sketch. Comments are welcome...


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## plumber666 (Oct 7, 2010)

That whole mess of pipes coming off the vertical WC pipe can get moved to the horizontal line and save a bunch of grief and elevation loss. If wet venting is permitted where you live, you can lose the vent off the shower drain too, the sink will be wet venting both the toilet and the shower.
All your piping takeoffs can be off the centerline, don't have to be above.


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## plumber666 (Oct 7, 2010)

Also, get a 4"x3" closet 90 elbow. This gives you a 4" pipe sticking out the concrete. You can then saw off the pipe level with the floor and glue a 4"x3" flange right into the pipe. You're definitely on the right track and asking all the right questions, good luck!


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## plumber666 (Oct 7, 2010)

PS, just make sure your lav connection is within 6-8 feet of the shower drain, and 1/4" per foot slope on all piping. Keep shower drain line 2". :thumbsup:


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## Mike Fox (Nov 6, 2011)

Thanks for the feedback.

I have a few more specific commments/questions...









Just to confirm that joint 1 is ok to be attached near center because there is no venting going on but joint 2 needs to be more above center because it is wet venting. Did I get this right?
I do understand that everything has to slope 1/4" per foot.









Are my pipe sizes correct? I sized the lav/floor drain pipe at 2" because it is also the vent but then I sized the vent itself at 1 1/2". The smaller vwent pipe will help me out in the ceiling.

I love the 4" X 3" closet elbow with the flange inside! thanks plumber666!!!

I think I will move the shower/lav drain to connect to the horizontal pipe. It will definately help reduce depth. I just thought that the flow from the shower might help prevent clogs because the wife wants a low flow toilet.









I think I will need to keep the shower vent because it is near 10ft from the shower trap to the lav vent. Unfortunately my bathroom wraps around the chimney so I dont have much option to shortcut!

Will the shower drain fit inside the 2" drain pipe or do I need to accomodate for that when I re-pour the floor?

Sorry I'm an engineer and it makes me a bit obsessed with details. lol

Thanks again for the great input.


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## JeepNick (Oct 27, 2011)

What program did you use to make your sketches? Thanks.


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## plumber666 (Oct 7, 2010)

Remove post, try again


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## plumber666 (Oct 7, 2010)

All good. Shower drain pipe is a hub that fits over the pipe. I always leave a 6"x6" box out around a tub or shower before the slab is poured to make it easier to cut the pipe off, or make adjustments to the trap.


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## Mike Fox (Nov 6, 2011)

Ok, Great. I guess the 6"X6" box will be full depth of the concrete. When would I fill this box in? With concrete? Once the tile is layed and the drain installed?

I made my sketches with a mechanical design software called Solidworks. I got the 3D models of the fittings on a free CD from Charrlotte Pipe and Foundry.


Thanks,


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