# zero clearance table saw inserts



## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

You can make them out of a scrap of laminate flooring. Works good for router bases too.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I have a similar age and make saw. I built my zero clearance inserts out of hardwood veneer plywood, but I like Mort's idea.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,..... Ole street, 'n hi-way signage is usually .090" aluminum,....
Pretty rigid,....

Ole tin rowboats are usually .063",...
Somewhat rigid,...

Not bein' a carpenter, is there any reason ya wanta use wood,..??

'bout the only thing I cut on my tablesaw is aluminum plate,.......


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,..... Ole street, 'n hi-way signage is usually .090" aluminum,....
> Pretty rigid,....
> 
> Ole tin rowboats are usually .063",...
> ...


Because you typically use the blade to cut the slot.

Typical procedure....

Install insert (no slot) with the blade all the way down.

Once you have it secured and flush, start the saw and raise the blade up. This cuts the slot and thus insures a '0 clearance' for the insert.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

5-ply birch aircraft plywood or phenolic would be my choices for an insert that thin. You could also make it a little thicker and rabbet the edge, but if you do that you might have to cut a little relief on the bottom side so the arbor flange doesn't hit it.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

ratherbefishin' said:


> 5-ply birch aircraft plywood or phenolic would be my choices for an insert that thin. You could also make it a little thicker and rabbet the edge, but if you do that you might have to cut a little relief on the bottom side so the arbor flange doesn't hit it.


I have some 1/2" Baltic Birch scraps so that might be a possibility
I also like the idea of the laminate flooring scraps

Thank you all for your responses.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Be careful with the laminate flooring---the coating always dulls the blade the first time I make a cut----


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

ddawg16 said:


> Because you typically use the blade to cut the slot.
> 
> Typical procedure....
> 
> ...


Ayuh,.... In that case, Aluminum oughta work,....

I use nothin' but wood cuttin' tools to work with aluminum,....


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

ddawg16 said:


> Because you typically use the blade to cut the slot.
> 
> Typical procedure....
> 
> ...


I also lock my fence down about 1/4" - 1/2" from the blade to help hold the insert down.

I tried the 1/2" baltic birch and made the underside perimeter thinner, but they didn't hold up too well. Craftsman did have a 9" table saw, which will take a 10" blade. If using the 1/2" ply thinned down, you will need to start the slot with your 8" dado blade. A 10" blade will contact the uncut birch.


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## ChuckTin (Nov 17, 2014)

I used mdf from an old piece of furniture. And routed the back until it fit flush.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

ChuckTin said:


> I used mdf from an old piece of furniture. And routed the back until it fit flush.


I have to route the front and rear down to about 1/16" 
I'm not sure if I would trust MDF at 1/16"


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## ChuckTin (Nov 17, 2014)

Hmm maybe we talking 2 different saws? Had mine so long I don't recall the model. But the lip of the inserts is more like 1/8 ~ 3/16.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

ChuckTin said:


> Hmm maybe we talking 2 different saws? Had mine so long I don't recall the model. But the lip of the inserts is more like 1/8 ~ 3/16.


The saw model # is 113.19061
I just went out and measured the existing metal insert and it's a flat piece of metal 1/16" strong.
That concerns me when it comes to any kind of strength.
I'll see if I can post a picture.
Thanks for sharing


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

Made mine out of hardwood. I had a piece of cherry that was just the right size. Took off blade and put old lipstick on the areas that needed to be removed. My insert was 1/8" thick. set my router to cut that thickness and routered out the areas where the lipstick was. used the original insert to set the screw holes. placed in new insert with the blade in the saw. Raised the blade to start the slot and finished with a circular saw.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

I use phynolic.


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

^^^ Easiest, if not cheapest, solution. Grizzly sells inserts to make your own. I think they were $16 or so last I checked.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

I've been going to make one of these for about 40 years now, just haven't got around to it yet, but i'm working on it.


http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/shop/articles_893.shtml


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

When you figure out the best way for you to make one, Make several, as I use them with my dado also you can mark on the back what size dado it is for. Also to have several made if you need a new one in a hurry just drop it in secure it with the fence and raise the blade. This way you don't have to stop everything to make a new one.


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