# brake bleeding system, hand operated



## dedlewamp (Apr 29, 2010)

Yoyizit said:


> from JCWhitney and others.
> 
> They say only one person is req'd to operate the thing.
> 
> ...


I've had really good luck with the Motive power bleeders. I've found that the bleeders that "suck" the old brake fluid out tend to also draw air bubbles in past the bleeder valve, making it hard to determine when there's no more air in the lines.

You also have to be careful not to suck the reservoir dry. 

I would also recommend getting a vehicle specific unit, or at least one with a vehicle specific cap. The universal ones work, but are more prone to leaking pressure.

Also look into power bleeders that make bleeding much quicker.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I've used a Mityvac with good results to exchange the fluid. If you just need to get the air out you can always gravity bleed the system.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

I think at this point I will exchange the fluid or take it to a service station and have them do it.
Gravity bleed hasn't worked too well for me in the past.

Thanks, folks. :thumbsup:


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Having worked on the brake systems of many autos and light trucks, I will state that *I *do not like any brake bleeding system which _draws/vacuums_ the fluid out of the system. I prefer to use a pressure bleeding system which pushes the fluid through the master cylinder, the lines, and wheel cylinders with just enough force to push the new brake fluid through. *I/ME* also like to do the system twice. YES, it's more time/labor/fluid, but a much more efficient job. Unless you buy specific brake fluids, at high cost, 99% of brake fluids sold over-the-counter _will_ absorb water via moisture within the air. There is a venting system in your master cylinder reservoir this air can get to the brake fluid. Moisture within the brake lines leads to deterioration of the lines from within, rust basically. That's one reason I was taught to do this bleeding sequence twice. Just my 2¢ worth, David


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

I'd like now to replace the fluid. It's a '94 Honda Civic DX and I have the factory manual. It takes DOT 3 or 4 and I bought 4.

Besides having the pedal down a max of 2/3rds of the way and the bleed bottle higher than the bleeder nipple and the old fluid sucked out of the master cylinder reservoir, my concern is not having the brake light come on - but I don't see how it can be avoided as long as there is a pressure imbalance in the dual system.

Maybe this pressure switch problem can be avoided with very low pressure on the pedal?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

Yoyizit said:


> - but I don't see how it can be avoided as long as there is a pressure imbalance in the dual system.
> 
> Maybe this pressure switch problem can be avoided with very low pressure on the pedal?


that i usually how I avoid the red light. The pressure imbalance is just that. It takes a certain amount of pressure differential to trip the light. Easy on the pedal usually avoids that.


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