# garbage disposal and dishwasher power



## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

this is how i was gonna do it, please let me know your thoughts:

the power outlet for a garbage disposal and a dishwasher needs to have the tab removed because the dishwasher always needs to be hot and the disposal outlet needs to be switch-controlled.

however, is there a way to branch the circuit within the switch box so that the always hot wire somehow goes out of the switch box in addition to the disposal wire (one in, two outs) ? this may be a stupid question. what i was trying to accomplish is avoid a junction box to split the circuit before one branch goes into the switch box to control the disposal and the other straight into the outlet for the dishwasher.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

amakarevic said:


> this is how i was gonna do it, please let me know your thoughts:
> 
> the power outlet for a garbage disposal and a dishwasher needs to have the tab removed because the dishwasher always needs to be hot and the disposal outlet needs to be switch-controlled.
> 
> however, is there a way to branch the circuit within the switch box so that the always hot wire somehow goes out of the switch box in addition to the disposal wire (one in, two outs) ? this may be a stupid question. what i was trying to accomplish is avoid a junction box to split the circuit before one branch goes into the switch box to control the disposal and the other straight into the outlet for the dishwasher.


 
run the feed right to the receptacle box and then just a switchleg up to the switch for the disposal.


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## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

does that mean i should have used a 12/3 cable for the circuit ? i used only 12/2.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

chris75 said:


> run the feed right to the receptacle box and then just a switchleg up to the switch for the disposal.
> 
> View attachment 5288


You know, I wonder, in the case of the pic, since it is a multiwire circuit, and most likely 20 amps, if a 20 A receptacle and switch would be required? We know we can use 15 A devices on 20 A circuits where more than one outlet is present. But a split wired receptacle effectively makes a duplex two single devices. And the switch is operating only one outlet.

Opinions?


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

amakarevic said:


> does that mean i should have used a 12/3 cable for the circuit ? i used only 12/2.


I believe the code says that as long as neither of your pieces of "utilization equipment fastened in place" exceeds 50% of the branch circuit rating, they can be on the same circuit. So in other words, your 12-2 should be fine. The 12-3 would be used to give each appliance it's own circuit.


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## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> I believe the code says that as long as neither of your pieces of "utilization equipment fastened in place" exceeds 50% of the branch circuit rating, they can be on the same circuit. So in other words, your 12-2 should be fine. TRhe 12-3 would be used to give each appliance it's own circuit.


but, in my case, while legal, is there a way around having to have a junction box ? in other words, can i still emulate a junction box within the switch box somehow ?

thanks.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

amakarevic said:


> but, in my case, while legal, is there a way around having to have a junction box ? in other words, can i still emulate a junction box within the switch box somehow ?
> 
> thanks.


Yes, if the power comes into your switch, then it needs to leave on 12-3. The black and the red in the 12-3 being constant hot and switched, respectively.


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## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> Yes, if the power comes into your switch, then it needs to leave on 12-3. The black and the red in the 12-3 being constant hot and switched, respectively.


thanks, that's exactly what i was looking for


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> You know, I wonder, in the case of the pic, since it is a multiwire circuit, and most likely 20 amps, if a 20 A receptacle and switch would be required? We know we can use 15 A devices on 20 A circuits where more than one outlet is present. But a split wired receptacle effectively makes a duplex two single devices. And the switch is operating only one outlet.
> 
> Opinions?


I think I would have to agree with you, its pretty clear what the code says, and I think you would have no choice but to use a 20 amp receptacle... The switch amperage is always based on actual load.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> I believe the code says that as long as neither of your pieces of "utilization equipment fastened in place" exceeds 50% of the branch circuit rating, they can be on the same circuit. So in other words, your 12-2 should be fine. The 12-3 would be used to give each appliance it's own circuit.


 
Thats correct, but alot of manufactures require a dedicated circuit, so.... :whistling2:


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

chris75 said:


> Thats correct, but alot of manufactures require a dedicated circuit, so.... :whistling2:


So true. I can't tell you how many times I've seen the Maytag Man jump out from behind a bush and kick the crap out of an electrician for that! I once worked in a house where Maytag, Whirlpool, GE and Sears got together and did a drive-by! Old man Kelvinator was driving:laughing:


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> So true. I can't tell you how many times I've seen the Maytag Man jump out from behind a bush and kick the crap out of an electrician for that! I once worked in a house where Maytag, Whirlpool, GE and Sears got together and did a drive-by! Old man Kelvinator was driving:laughing:


 
Nothing better than a 3 amp appliance requiring its own circuit...


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