# Interior Trim on "All Ultrex" Windows



## mnspartan (Oct 2, 2012)

Hi everybody,

My wife and I recently purchased a home and needless to say its a disaster zone. I'm somewhat handy (mainly from summer work with contractors and a technical class to build a house in high school) but I have a lot of "voids" in some of my skills. I have enjoyed the site very much so far but now I have a question of my own!

We recently completed installing five new Marvin Integrity Windows in their "All Ultrex" format which is a full fiberglass interior and exterior. We went with new construction windows, removing the old weight pockets and going down the the bare R.O. I completed the exterior trim using AZEK material. I have no experience doing interior trim. As you can see from the photos I need to make my own small jamb extensions which I was originally planning to do with some 1x material. Then I was planning on nailing the window casing through this 1x and into the jambs and then another nail into the stud of the R.O. which I believe is the traditional method of attaching casing.

My question is...has anyone done this on an All Ultrex window? The jamb material is most definitely not wood, but I'm not sure its fiberglass either. If it is fiberglass I'm almost certain I will have to come up with an alternate method, but it appears to be some sort of PVC/Plastic material? I'm just not sure, please see the attached photos! Thank you!


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

That is going to look a bit funky as a 3 piece set up.

Can you rip down your trim to account for the plaster and lathe thickness so the trim will still sit flush on the window jamb extension? I think they have some thicker casings.


----------



## mnspartan (Oct 2, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> That is going to look a bit funky as a 3 piece set up.
> 
> Can you rip down your trim to account for the plaster and lathe thickness so the trim will still sit flush on the window jamb extension? I think they have some thicker casings.


I'm fine with the three piece appearance. I figure I can do something with a slight reveal to make it look intentional. I would have to rip down the casing 3/4" and still have some sort of thickness left, plus I don't have a table saw .


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What's the distance from the edge of the jamb to the face of the plaster?

May want to concider investing in a table saw for this one.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL


----------



## mnspartan (Oct 2, 2012)

joecaption said:


> What's the distance from the edge of the jamb to the face of the plaster?
> 
> May want to concider investing in a table saw for this one.
> http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL


3/4" so I figured some small 1x strips would be perfect.


----------



## cjdavia (May 28, 2010)

*Help*

So did you try some adhesive? Did it work? I have the SAME problem and my contractor wants me to make a decision now.. any advice?

Thanks
Chris


----------



## mnspartan (Oct 2, 2012)

cjdavia said:


> So did you try some adhesive? Did it work? I have the SAME problem and my contractor wants me to make a decision now.. any advice?
> 
> Thanks
> Chris


Wow can't believe this thread is still alive and helping somebody!

Long story short I eventually got ahold of the right person within Marvin windows. The jambs of the windows can be nailed into with a standard brad nailer, the PVC material of the jambs is receptive to the nails just like a wood jamb. I used an 18 gauge air nailer and the trim is holding up great.

I don't know if you also have my other issue but the wood spacer to compensate for our extra thick plaster walls also came out great! Its dark here in Minnesota but I tried to take some photos of the results!

Reply back if this helps you out!


----------



## cjdavia (May 28, 2010)

Holy cow that came out great! I am extremely grateful that you responded to me so quickly, thanks so much.

I have been going nuts trying to figure out if I should brad nail, glue, or use solvent. I am so relieved to hear that we can use brad nails. I have a 1/2 inch gap to conceal. Hopefully I can get it done with one small piece of cove-like molding that touches the casement. What do you think? 

Thanks again. You are more proof that folks from Minnesota are amazing. I spent 2 years in Edina playing around Lake Calhoon and loved it!

Chris


----------



## mnspartan (Oct 2, 2012)

cjdavia said:


> Holy cow that came out great! I am extremely grateful that you responded to me so quickly, thanks so much.
> 
> I have been going nuts trying to figure out if I should brad nail, glue, or use solvent. I am so relieved to hear that we can use brad nails. I have a 1/2 inch gap to conceal. Hopefully I can get it done with one small piece of cove-like molding that touches the casement. What do you think?
> 
> ...


No problem at all! Yes I too spent about a month waiting for an answer from Marvin, thankfully I didn't have a contractor needing an answer, just a wife who wanted some semblance of a home back .

Your plan for the gap sounds fine, a cove profile sounds kind of cool in this application. I nailed our "gap piece" to the jambs first with about an 1/8" reveal away from the jamb just as personal appearance preference. Then I nailed the trim with slightly longer brads to the whole assembly.

At least in our case the ultrex jambs had a little bit of warp to them, so I was also able to use the trim to straighten them out by attaching the trim to the wall/studs first and then using some hand clamps to pull the jambs into plumb. Just my two cents!


----------

