# Rotozip rz2000 just died



## pondball (Dec 9, 2013)

HAs anyone else had this happen? It happened about a month ago when I started it up with the Roto saw blade installed. Started, buzzed and died. Not that old either, maybe just over a year... Read: just over warranty.

I've gotten to the point of needing it soon so thought I'd take it apart to see what was up... Brushes are fine, contacts are now perfectly clean, And I cleaned it out of all dust etc... Plugged it back in expecting a Miracle... And ... Nothing.

We have no repair shops within an hours drive, Roto "knows nothing" and recommends taking it to their warranty repair shop over an hour away and leaving it there to see what's up... Meaning about $50 in gas, no guarantees, and at least a one hour service charge before repair costs are built in... 
This is starting to smell more like the printer deal where it's cheaper to buy a new one... I have over $150 invested in blades and attachments for this and have used it for onLy one Reno... I expected more than this...

Any suggestions as to what it might be... Before I go out and buy a replacement?


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## rustyjames (Jul 20, 2008)

Did you try by-passing the switch? That could be bad, or the plug/cord.


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## Idmason60 (May 17, 2010)

I had a friend ask me to look at a Rotozip he purchased at a garage sale that he said did not work. I was surprised as it looked like it came right out of the box new. 
I took the device apart expecting to see something burned. However what I found was one brush wire was broken right where they crimped it at factory.
I just soldered a the wire back.. good as new.

This could be what happened to your Rotozip. If it is out of warranty 
take it apart and see whats going on. If its still in warranty get in touch with 
the manufacturer.
Larry
S. Florida


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## pondball (Dec 9, 2013)

Thanks guys. 
When I took it apart it didn't look like any wires were broken... Or that the brushes were even worn that much. Will take it apart again though and look more closely. Definitely out of warranty, and when I checked with rotozip they said to take it to their warranty shop over an hour away. I have no other reason to head in that direction so, sadly, it would cost less to buy a new one than the drive back and forth and costs of err pair.

As per bypassing the switch or power cord, I haven't tried that... But mostly cuz I probably don't know how... Any tips for how to do this without frizzing what's left of my hair?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd be checking the switch for continuity with a volt ohm meter, use the same meter to check the wires on the cord while wiggling them to see if there a break.
Cleaning the armature, (a pencil eraser will work.
Making sure there was no trash between the segments on the armature causing it to short.
Checking for continuity between the segments on the armature.


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## pondball (Dec 9, 2013)

Thanks joe... Just found a vid on checking for continuity on the switch and power cord and will try the first... I've already "erased" the contacts... And will check for vids on how to check the armature for continuity if the others don't work


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Simple as touching all the segments with a meter set to ohms.
They all should peg the meter.


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## pondball (Dec 9, 2013)

Hi joe...I have a meter but have seldom used it... There are 6 ohm settings from 20M , 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k (with a funny sign beside it) and 200. How do I know which one to use? The instruction manual is pretty mush useless!


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

The funny symbol is the Greek letter omega which stands for "ohm" -- the unit to measure resistance. k = 1000 i.e 20k = 20,000 ohms full scale. M = million.
If electricity is expected to flow through -- resistance will be about zero, so use the 200 scale. 
When you put the tester on either side of the switch (when it is NOT plugged in, of course), you should see zero ohms when the switch is "on" and infinity ohms when the switch is off.
When you put the test probes on the two prongs on the plug and the switch on, you should see something close to zero (the winding in the motor will have some resistance). But likely you will find infinite resistance, since it does not work.
Put the probes on each of the brush holders(assuming they are metal). Should see a very low resistance.


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## pondball (Dec 9, 2013)

SPS-1 said:


> The funny symbol is the Greek letter omega which stands for "ohm" -- the unit to measure resistance. k = 1000 i.e 20k = 20,000 ohms full scale. M = million. If electricity is expected to flow through -- resistance will be about zero, so use the 200 scale. When you put the tester on either side of the switch (when it is NOT plugged in, of course), you should see zero ohms when the switch is "on" and infinity ohms when the switch is off. When you put the test probes on the two prongs on the plug and the switch on, you should see something close to zero (the winding in the motor will have some resistance). But likely you will find infinite resistance, since it does not work. Put the probes on each of the brush holders(assuming they are metal). Should see a very low resistance.


Thanks sps
I get correct readings for the cord on both sides (going from prong to first contact so I'm assuming the cord it ok

I get readings from the left side contact (black wire) to both brushes when the power switch is in the on position, but no reading from right side (white wire) contact (these are the power cord connection contacts) to the brushes when the switch is on. I get the same readings when connecting the probes to the prongs (one at a time) of the power cord. Readings occur when the black probe is connected to the smaller prong, but when connected to the wider prong.

I get no readings when the switch is turned off from either the left or right side contacts. Same thing when connecting probes to plug prongs.

From the switch box i get readings from the thinner white wire to the brushes but not from the red wire to the brushes ... This should indicate a complete circuit shouldn't it?
I get the same readings when I disconnect the white and black connections for the power cord and test from switch box connections (red and thin white) to the brushes... Same readings whether the switch is in the on or off position

I've also reversed the brushes as they looked pretty smooth, having one edge with a few lines showing... Alas, that didn't work either. Could it be as simple as worn brushes? 

Or am I looking at a blown circuit board... Hoping for the former!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Can be as simple as a sticking brush from trash in the holder.


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## pondball (Dec 9, 2013)

Hi joe... Not sure I understand what you mean


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