# Leveling Stair Treads



## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

I'm replacing my old stair treads and risers inside my house. After removing the carpet I was pleased to find I could remove the treads from the top side. The problem is after removing the first tread and testing a replacement, I notice that it's not level and angling down several degrees. I never noticed this walking on them. Should I worry about making them level? If so, what's the best easy way that will keep the stairs from making noise?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Welcome to the forum JDS.

Glue and Screws for the noise. When you say out of level are you talking about pitched forward or back and how far out are you talking?


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

I guess pitched forward. It seemed about a quarter inch down (going down the stair). Thinking with carpet it wasn't a big deal because of traction of the carpet. But with wood and having less traction, wondering if this creates a problem.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

A quarter is to much. You can just use shims to level the tread. I wouldn’t try cutting the stringers. If you don’t know what you’re doing it can turn into trouble pretty quick.


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

Was thinking of shims but worried that the tread wouldn't have enough contact and make noise. Maybe not at first but over time. Guess time will tell. Having the riser off will help with placing the shims. Thanks for helping me think this through.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Shim in a couple of spots and use sub floor glue. When the glue hardens it will help support any voids. 

Check back later I’m sure there will be other opinions on this.


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## fixrite (Mar 1, 2009)

how old are the stairs, older version of stringers are built with wedges to secure both the tread and the riser. No glue was ever used on the older stairs and it was a sign of quality workmanship.


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

About ten years. I've only pulled one up so far and none were used on it.


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

when you pull up the old treads you should be able to see the rough stringers. Take a piece of 2x4 and sister it to the existing stringer. Make sure it is level and glue and nail/screw it to the side of the stringer. More than likely you will have at least 3 stringers under there. Keep in mind that if you level the nose of each tread by 1/4' in the front the 1st step rise might seem a little higher than it was before and the last step might feel a little smaller than it was before. I like to use premium PL400 for glue under the treads. Be generous because this will help with any squeaks.


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

That's good advice. Thanks!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I know some will not agree but a tread that is out of level, with the front being the low side, is by far more comfortable to transcend. A step that is unlevel with the back being the low side feels very uncomfortable. Too much out of level and it will be uncomfortable and dangerous either way.


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

i agree with Jiju, but this is an easy fix. Since you are already replacing the steps you should just get those suckers level while you have the chance. Good luck


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

Going to stain the Oak treads. Any idea what would best to seal them with. Poly comes to mind but not sure it durable enough.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

JDScalf said:


> Going to stain the Oak treads. Any idea what would best to seal them with. Poly comes to mind but not sure it durable enough.


Post a new thread in the painting section of this site if you want to pick those pros brains.


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

K, thanks!


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## Millertyme (Apr 20, 2010)

poly is one of the most durable finishes...thats what i would use


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## JDScalf (Aug 16, 2011)

That's what I was thinking. I didn't know if there was something new I should consider.


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