# Help with Sloped Plywood Soffits



## sirrus3610 (Nov 27, 2010)

The exterior of my house is in need of some serious TLC. It was built in 1974 with T1-11 siding and all wood trim. Everything is showing its age and I'm going to start the process of repairing and replacing a lot of the exterior siding and trim. 

The eaves of the gable roof overhang quite a bit, I haven't measured but it's well over two feet. The existing "soffits" are plywood and rotting. But the soffits aren't horizontal from the end of the eave back to the wall, forming a typical soffit box. Rather they are sloped and angle back up following the roof pitch. A picture is attached. 

Do these type of soffits have a specific name? Any thoughts on how to replace and/or repair the soffits? I'm a relatively novice dyi'er and I've searched everywhere and can't seem to find another example of soffits like these. I could just replace the rotted plywood, but I'd rather install something more maintenance free. I don't think building out a soffit box and making the soffits horizontal will work because that would nearly block some exterior windows. 

Any thoughts or suggestions would be a huge help. 

Thanks!
Matt


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

I used slotted aluminum soffits on my garage with more slope than you have there.

I prefer the look of no boxes.:wink2:


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Is your attic vented at all? I have replaced plywood soffits on many house here in C. Illinois.I prefer vented and non vented aluminum soffit.We usually run 2 pieces of solid and then one vented along with a ridge vent in this area.You will need J and F channel to carry the soffit.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Besides what other soffit options materials there are, I would be concerned with, what caused the rot, and hope the rafter tails are still in sound condition.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Besides what other soffit options materials there are, I would be concerned with, what caused the rot, and hope the rafter tails are still in sound condition.


 Yep.That's why I asked about the venting in the attic.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Looks like I can bearly see some rectangle shaped vents is you look real close.
Looks like not nearly enough.
Have all that exposed trim wrapped and add the suggested aluminum or vinyl vented soffits and there will be no more rot or painting to deal with in those areas.
A few things that could have caused that rot:
Lack of a drip edge under the shingles.
No Storm and Ice shield under the shingles, ran just past the house envelope.(ice dams can cause water to run up under the shingles)
Gutters plugged up.
Roof sheathing set to far back from the end of the rafter.
Not enough shingle over hang. (should be 1" so the water drips into the gutter not behind it)
Vents painted over, insulation blocking the air flow, no ridge vent.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

If non vented attics cause soffit rot I'd be expecting an attic with mold.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

If you stay with wood you need a continuous soffit vent. If you switch to aluminum I would vent every panel.


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## sirrus3610 (Nov 27, 2010)

Thanks for all the great responses!

For some reason I wasn't sure I'd be able to hang standard aluminum soffits on a slope such as that.

There are a few soffit vents, but not nearly enough. I plan on putting in all vented panels or some combination. There is no ridge vent, just a few thermostat controlled fans. I plan on putting in a ridge vent also. Hopefully before the warm weather hits. 

I think the cause of the rot is a combination of lack of upkeep with painting/caulking and in some spots improper installation of a drip edge. The shingles and sheathing at the end of the roof look fine and don't appear to be damaged.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

when you switch to aluminum be sure to pull all the wood out and throw it away. That may seem completely logical and if so my apologies. Its just that I have sen way to many aluminum soffit jobs where the idiots just covered up the wood. :vs_mad:


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

With plywood, and usually 1/4", there's no worry about the thickness. With aluminum or vinyl, the channel takes up up to 1 inch. So your facia must have at least an inch extra surface.
I never used aluminum, but paint on aluminum will fade and if dented, noway to repair it. I would use vinyl, but aluminum probably has better capacity to span wider spaces, if your joists span more than 16".


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