# Joining Two Wall Sections - Basement



## Duckweather (Mar 26, 2012)

last stud should be half on and half overhanging. next wall section should start under one half of last stud of first section tying the two together. You have to start your layout with first stud at fifteen and one quarter inch, then sixteen from that one.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

End each section with a stud. They are 3 bucks each, and it makes it easier to tie them together. I prefer to build my basement walls in place and use longer length plates, but your way can work too if there aren't too many things in the way.


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

Setzer1994 said:


> I'm framing my basement. Everything 16" OC, good to go.
> My question is how to I join the sections together?
> Meaning, if I start at one end w/ an 8' wall section...


Are you saying you're framing sections flat and tipping them up?
I've NEVER been able to do that in a basement.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

its a prety simple process, for partitions just cut the studs 1/4" short which will give you the wiggle room to get the wall up in place. its done all the time by remodellers and framers both in renovations and new construction


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

woodworkbykirk said:


> its a prety simple process... its done all the time by remodellers and framers both in renovations and new construction


In new construction sure... I do it too.
My point is about the irregularities in basement floors.

The cellar job I'm doing now will have about 270-300LF of wall.
I doubt more than 30 feet of that can be tipped up in sections.
The rest will have the studs toed in to the plates one at a time.


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## Setzer1994 (Apr 12, 2012)

Thanks for all the replys!

I have just enough wiggle room to lay down 8' sections on the floor, then stand them up after pre-building. Now that I'm about halfway done, I'm only going to have 3 complete 8' sections, so anything less than that is even more maneuverable.

Before I started I measured all my joists around the room, and except for 1 or 2 spots, they were all within about a 1/4" of each other, height-wise (surprising since the house was built in 1966). So, I took a 1/2" off the "snug" measurement, then shimmed the tops.


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## Setzer1994 (Apr 12, 2012)

I don't want to clutter up another thread, so I'll ask this here:

I messed up one of my wall sections - it's not plumb from left to right but it's straight vertically.

This wall section is on my rear exterior basement wall, up against a door (that leads out and up through my bilco). I noticed that the wall was messed up because it starts right up against the door near the floor, but pulls away at the top - probably about a 1/2" or so.

I'm really trying to avoid tearing it down, because it's already nailed to my bottom PT base and its shimmed and nailed to the ceiling joists.

Is this kind of gap easily covered enough with trim? Or is a 1/2" enough for me to need to fix the wall correctly?

Wall is non-load bearing and won't even have anything hanging on it, except maybe a small shelf or two.


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## Setzer1994 (Apr 12, 2012)

...and nevermind. I was looking at the wall some more and decided to fix it right. I took out my sawzall, cut the nails at the top and straightened everything out. Now I feel better. Onto home theatre wiring!


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