# Sliding Glass Door Flange Under Sheathing?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Yes--that door was installed wrong--flange on top of the sheathing---then house wrap a d flashing tape---


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

It would work to cut the flange only and leave the old flange there. Was the sheathing around the door replaced? Or probably the door came first and it was installed before anybody realized it. Those were the good days when fuel was cheap and nobody was talking about sealing the gaps.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Got a picture so we can see what your seeing.
It's rare to see a slider installed right even though it's building 101 to do it.
If I'm doing it the house wrap goes on first and wraps into the opening.
I install a jamb sill.
http://jamsill.com/
Window and door seal ran up the side of the jamb at least 24".
Once the doors installed window and door seal is ran over the nailing fins on the sides then the top.
Z molding over the top of the door.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

This can't be true. There is a poster here on this forum that always talks about how things should be built from fastener length to insulation and he never mentions that anything beyond his utopian ideal exist. 

A nailing flange under the sheathing...not possible in his fairy dust land. 

In all seriousness, cut it back as previously stated. You should be able to free it from under the sheathing once you cut it back, replace the cut back sheathing, and run a larger flashing tape to cover everything so that the drainage is proper. Be sure to incorporate some drip cap flashing and sill pan details into the door being reset into the opening.

Pictures would be great to see here as well.


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## shbaneii (Jun 6, 2016)

The slider and all of the windows have the flanges under the sheathing. As you can see from the close up picture since the window flanges are behind the sheathing the weep holes for the windows are behind the siding and water is running right down the wall. I guess I will have to remove all of the sheathing and windows to reinstall correctly.  This has become far more than a deck replacement. Thanks for the comments.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

That stinks majorly, but you are correct that nothing that you do to the exterior will ultimately fix it in a manner that is sustainable. You are going to have to rip it off and re-do it. 

They person that built that home should be flogged for that.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Welcome to the forums!

Appears they relied on the 1/4" fanfold insulation to act for your WRB. Leave as much sheathing on the walls as you can as it is holding the wall in check against shear. Removing it all is a bad idea, in my opinion as then the resistance to lateral shear is solely on the drywall fasteners- and unnecessary. Cut around windows and replace wood, then add window, tape, as said. Replace only the wet sections of OSB sheathing. Lot of work with new jamb liners/sills, hope it is drywall... are you familiar with the head flashing details?

Gary


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## shbaneii (Jun 6, 2016)

I am not sure what you mean by "head flashing details"? If it has to do with drainage of the window, there are two weep holes at the bottom. There never was a drip cap or any flashing. The house is all drywall. Thanks for the suggestion of doing a little at a time for shear. I guess I will just do a little at a time although I will have to pull quite a bit at a time around the bank of windows. As you can see from the picture the water was running right out of the weep holes and down the sheathing. Thanks for your comments.


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## shbaneii (Jun 6, 2016)

There are no jamb liners or sills. Just a 2x4 hole and a window with a flange. I intend on reinstalling the old windows with flashing, and drip cap. Any other suggestions? I can post more pictures if needed. Thanks!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Check Gary's post (#9) and its the 3rd link down (Jon Eakes).

http://www.diychatroom.com/f103/moisture-between-foam-board-roxul-194946/


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Well, that answer above probably confused you as it was the wrong link- basement wall, interior air leak, etc. Eric (WoW) tries to answer for me- his own way to look good to his peers. Hence the zingers in Post 5 for me when I corrected him earlier....moving on.

Important to leave the sheathing, as much as possible, on the house for lateral shear resistance. The wide panel under the red extension ladder and at the house corner. Windows/doors lose shear value, unless strapped/blocked at head/sill. IF not, when you remove one of those required panels, block between studs horizontally to regain full panel width required per location for seismic/high winds; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par005.htm?bu2=undefined

The plastic facing on the fanfold foam board (if clear poly one side, foil on other) they used is a vapor barrier- stopping all moisture getting on the OSB sheathing, it can now only dry one way--to the inside. IF you have a poly sheet under the drywall, then it will stay wet and rot. OSB was tested in a warm climate and timed to dry out- 45-60 days.... if you are in a cold climate- it will mold before drying. Good you are fixing it now.

Flash the holes for windows as stated (I have links for optimum flash details -if needed- depends on WRB/window installation procedure). Flash the heads/sills as if it was a "rainscreen" approach; *pp. 8-10,* but read it all: http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

IMHO, either pull the face poly/foil off the foam, or remove it entirely. Use two layers of WRB, tar paper/polymer (Tyvek) or same one twice. Where are you located?

Gary


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

This is an excellent cats-paw (nail puller) for those sheathing nails; http://www.homedepot.com/p/Estwing-9-in-Pro-Claw-Nail-Puller-PC210G/202033610 The bigger puller by same manufacturer is better for 10-16d nails, though you could slip a pipe on the handle for more leverage if only a few nails. 

Wrap the window rough opening (as said) with the WRB before installing windows, much better application. You could use tape as well but a bead of caulk is fine, IMO.http://buildingscience.com/document...rame-wall/view?topic=/doctypes/researchreport

Pan flash; http://buildingscience.com/document...or-wall-openings?searchterm=flashing+end+dams

Air seal with caulking before setting the window, and after; http://buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-sealing-windows

Other tips on sheathing replacement; http://www.diychatroom.com/f103/should-i-add-insulation-my-walls-401689/

Gary


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## shbaneii (Jun 6, 2016)

Thanks for all the useful info. Here is where I am at..... I will mount the new sliding door on top of the sheathing but have decided to leave the windows with the flanges under the sheathing after my wife and I pulled a small window and figured the large ones must weigh over 200 lbs. So, I am going to remove all siding and replace water damaged sheathing and span as many wall studs as possible and use a high quality wood to vinyl sealant where the sheathing meets the vinyl window, install tyvek and flash around all windows and doors with flashing tape. I am installing metal flashing at the bottom of the wall under the tyvek. I will roll the flashing tape up onto the vinyl window. Do you think I should put the tyvek over or under the flashing tape? Thanks!
P.S. I was confused by the post about basement walls.


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## shbaneii (Jun 6, 2016)

I am in Kansas City, MO.


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