# Drywall seams around doors.



## ithm (Apr 9, 2013)

Hi everyone,

So, I drywalled my basement, but unfortunately I was an idiot and didnt realize I should have the drywall seams not line up with the door opening edges. 

For example, I did it like Figure 2 here:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/drywall-installation-openings.html#.UWRigas4UzE

instead of Figure 3.

I know, I should have done more research first :wallbash:

Anyways, at this point I have finished mudding / taping, sanding 3 coats. I'm ready to paint. What should I do? Should I rip out the drywall, and redo it properly? Or should I hope for the best and continue finishing?

Thanks!


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

I'd leave it and take my chances especially since it's a basement. Is it an older home where everything has had a chance to settle?


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## ithm (Apr 9, 2013)

djlandkpl said:


> I'd leave it and take my chances especially since it's a basement. Is it an older home where everything has had a chance to settle?


It's a new home. 3 years old.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

My guess would be that it's settled enough. Patching a crack that may never happen is easier than starting over. I'd leave it.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

ithm said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> So, I drywalled my basement, but unfortunately I was an idiot and didnt realize I should have the drywall seams not line up with the door opening edges.
> 
> ...


way to much work I would just leave it and hope for the best. And that is why I also hang my sheets horizontal and not vertical. just chalk it up as good learning experience and next time do it right. Who knows you might get lucky and not have a problem?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Nailbags said:


> And that is why I also hang my sheets horizontal and not vertical.


Horizontal sheets have to end somewhere too. The problem is where the drywall is cut, not in which orientation it's hung.

Horizontal vs. vertical should be decided based on the length of drywall that is available to you (or you can handle), the total length of joints, and the length of butt joints vs. tapered joints.

With 8 foot ceilings and 16 foot drywall, you can completely eliminate butt joints in most rooms hanging horizontally. With 8 foot ceilings and 8 foot drywall, you can completely eliminate butt joints by hanging vertically. For most situations you should do the math and decide.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

ithm said:


> It's a new home. 3 years old.


That would be an older home. Most homes built these days do not even last 10 years before they start to fall apart.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I would let it go. Yes someday it will probably crack but that may be years down the road. Enjoy your new home and don't worry about it. The worst is someday you have a crack to repair. Come back then and we'll help you repair it.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

ithm said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> So, I drywalled my basement, but unfortunately I was an idiot and didnt realize I should have the drywall seams not line up with the door opening edges.
> 
> ...


I wouldn't rip out the drywall. Just don't slam the door. :laughing:

Seriously though, Maybe you could put one of those hydrolic door closers on that door if the door is going to be used a lot. :thumbsup:


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Sir MixAlot said:


> I wouldn't rip out the drywall. Just don't slam the door. :laughing:
> 
> Seriously though, Maybe you could put one of those hydrolic door closers on that door if the door is going to be used a lot. :thumbsup:


 If the drywall is attached properly, and the wall does not flex, like in most cheaply built tract homes, or any home these days that is put up in six months, by the lowest bid, the OP should be fine.


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## skyroofers (Apr 11, 2013)

ithm said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> So, I drywalled my basement, but unfortunately I was an idiot and didnt realize I should have the drywall seams not line up with the door opening edges.
> 
> ...


do the the drywall again...do it perfect this time


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

jeffnc said:


> Horizontal sheets have to end somewhere too. The problem is where the drywall is cut, not in which orientation it's hung.
> 
> Horizontal vs. vertical should be decided based on the length of drywall that is available to you (or you can handle), the total length of joints, and the length of butt joints vs. tapered joints.
> 
> With 8 foot ceilings and 16 foot drywall, you can completely eliminate butt joints in most rooms hanging horizontally. With 8 foot ceilings and 8 foot drywall, you can completely eliminate butt joints by hanging vertically. For most situations you should do the math and decide.


I would never make my seems vertical to save on a few feet of rock.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

drywallfinisher said:


> I would never make my seems vertical to save on a few feet of rock.


1, who said anything about "saving rock"?
2, what exactly is wrong with making vertical seams?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Finisher you try to explain it everyone else has.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

The only time I hang drywall vertically is on commercial projects. Because it's required to be done that way for fire code. :thumbsup:


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