# siding distance from shingles?



## jproffer (Mar 12, 2005)

No caulk on a roof. The siding should have flashing behind it, if possible replace it while the siding is off. Bring the siding down to within 3/8" or so of the roof. If there is no flashing, install some. If you don't know how, ask here or hire a professional roofer.


----------



## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

Is this a wall above a shingled roof?


----------



## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

I bet it is. If it is, no caulk should be needed or wanted. Like to see a 3/8" between the shingles and the siding. When materials touch, capillary action plays into the scenario.


----------



## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

If it is a wall on top of sloped roof shingles, sheet metal step-flashing should be used and I would hold the wood siding a minimum of 1" off of the roof shingles in a warm climate and 2" in a cold climate. If the wall extends beyond the eave of the roof, metal "kick-out" flashing should be installed to keep water from running down the siding.


----------



## matchupeabody (Jun 11, 2005)

Thanks for all your helpful responses!


----------



## K2eoj (Aug 14, 2005)

I vote 1-1/2" off the roof. On the angles lay a 2x4 on the roof and cut the siding to fit to the 2x4. Pull out the 2x4 and you should have a straight line... Theoretically.


----------



## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

Why so much?


----------



## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

Room to dry, room for another layer of shingles, room for ice & snow.


----------



## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

Ok, Then, But You Myust Be Using 4x4x8 Inch Steps Flashings Then, Cuz The Baby Tins Aint Gonna Cut It.


----------



## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

OK, I'll bite; what's a Baby Tin?

The NRCA suggests using 7 inch by 8 inch step flashing with a 4-inch leg onto the asphalt shingles and a 4-inch leg up the vertical surface with a 1" minimum space between the siding and the roofing shingles. I specify 8x8 16 oz copper. I have no faith in aluminum since step flashing should outlast the siding and no faith that a roofer knows which way a 7x8 should be bent. Maybe I've been doing this too long but I have no tolerance for premature roofing failures. 

The NRCA also recommends: "The finish siding should be brought down over the flashing to serve as cap flashing but should be held far enough away from the shingles so that the ends of the boards may be readily painted ..." 

I recommend a 1" minimum gap plus 1/2" or more for a future second layer of shingles (this is yankee country). Hammerslammer's use of a flat 2x4 is an excellent method since it ensures a uniform sight line.


----------



## K2eoj (Aug 14, 2005)

Just a little note on step flashing and how things are different in different areas. I came from NJ. 30 years ago and remember step flashing but can say for certain it is not used in my area at all. We normally use a 4x5 and use some kind of sealant where the shingle meets the metal. We are semi-arid but can get some torrential downpours. 2 days of constant rain would be extremely rare. I also contribute the non-use of step flashing with the use of t-lok type shingles. I would estimate that 80% of the roofs in this area were t-lok and in my opinion t-lok's are harder to stepflash. I think the trend twards the laminate shingles may change the flashing procedures in this area and also we went from the UBC to the International code in Sept.> Mighty, I see flitch plates mentioned in other forums and would like your opinion on them. I will post my question on another thread. HS


----------



## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

OK a baby tin is a 2.5"x2.5"x7" step flashing. In my opinion, these are too small, and you see them everywhere in my area. I do not use them. I use 4"x4"x8" step flashings. 

Thanks for the insult, though. What do you do for a living, anvil?


----------



## mighty anvil (Oct 5, 2005)

I'm not sure what the insult was but none was intended. I'm an architect in Boston.


----------

