# Basement finishing: What are your regrets?



## clay1g1 (Sep 20, 2019)

We moved into this house just 7 months ago. Totally unfinished basement and we are planning on finishing it out. It has approx 1,800 sq ft and we plan on finishing around 1,650 of it. 

My wife and I are going back and forth on revisions to the floorplan and how to best use the space. We are also getting bids from contractors who specialize in basement finishing. We hope to have it finished no later than early 2020.

Having said that, we want to avoid making mistakes on how the space is finished. So my questions is, what regrets, if any, do you have after you had your basement finished?


----------



## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

My main goal on this forum is to push DIYer's into having things look less "DIY-ey." Got a floor plan you can share?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

clay1g1 said:


> We moved into this house just 7 months ago. Totally unfinished basement and we are planning on finishing it out. It has approx 1,800 sq ft and we plan on finishing around 1,650 of it.
> 
> My wife and I are going back and forth on revisions to the floorplan and how to best use the space. We are also getting bids from contractors who specialize in basement finishing. We hope to have it finished no later than early 2020.
> 
> Having said that, we want to avoid making mistakes on how the space is finished. So my questions is, what regrets, if any, do you have after you had your basement finished?


How the exterior walls are finished a little different as to climate and local rules, you need to find what the best practice. Dictate how it will be done and follow it closely. Few little mistakes can turn in to a disaster in a few years.


----------



## clay1g1 (Sep 20, 2019)

3onthetree said:


> My main goal on this forum is to push DIYer's into having things look less "DIY-ey." Got a floor plan you can share?


Here's the current FP.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

clay1g1 said:


> Here's the current FP.


 Can you mark that up with walls beams and heat runs in the basement? 

Or just take pictures with hints at what part we are looking at.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Not putting in more and bigger windows. Not considering when placing windows that they might end up covered by a deck. More AC outlets.

Get a couple rolls of blue masking tape and mark on the floor where you want your walls. Live with it for a week or two, place some furniture or whatever.


----------



## bubbler (Oct 18, 2010)

Don't go with a basement finishing system, like Owens Corning, etc -- it feels like a basement, it's really obvious.


Don't skimp on floor prep work if your concrete isn't perfectly flat, you'll notice it even with carpet and a thick pad. It's very easy for me to feel where the peaks and valleys in the concrete are. Next time the floor is getting replaced I'd be knocking that down and using SLC.



Do put a radon, french drain, and sump pump setup in now if you think you might ever need it.



Perform a radon test after you've completed your work, once things are tightened up you may find that it's building up to levels you'd want to mitigate (pretty much anything over 2pCi/L is considered no good these days).



Don't bury anything that is very old or at risk -- the $1500 you spend on a plumber now to replace aging copper and valves will pay 3-4 fold when they start to fail behind finished surfaces. Consider closet placements that will allow access to particularly busy junctions of pipes, it will make it less of an impact to open things up in the future.



If you're going w/ tile floor I'd strongly consider radiant electric heat if you're in a climate that gets cold. If you're going w/ wood be 100% certain of it performs below grade and consider elevating it slightly with a system like dri-core.


If you have any concerns about head room now then you are not going to be happy once you've built up the floor and installed ceiling, it will feel tighter. One way to combat that feeling is to partition the space and don't create very large rooms. The low ceilings are more obvious with large/long rooms.


Don't neglect access to systems and utilities in your finished product -- Don't box in large equipment, install narrow doors, or create an absolute minimum in terms of space. For some reason that escapes me my lower level laundry room has a 28" door, the wall is 8' long but they inexplicably decided to put a 28" door in... washers and dryers will technically fit, but you end up marking up the door jam and the appliances because it's such a tight squeeze... had they done a 30" door it would be a non-issue.



Do be sure you have an egress other than just the steps between house and basement, and if it involves a bulkhead door or passing through storage space make sure people in your house know where it is, how to open it, and to keep it clear.


Add blocking to framing where you think you'll be mounting anything heavy like a TV or railings.


----------



## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

Have you placed every function you desire, and is there a need for future considerations like an in-law suite, elevator, or wine cellar? I see a room accessed through a closet, and walkouts on either end of the basement (are you on a mountain peak?). Is there a room behind the stair? I do realize there may be limitations and unfamiliarity with the software used, but showing as much as you can with the overhead structure, HVAC and plumbing is also helpful visualizing spaces. Your appetite for moving underfloor plumbing a little will either dictate or allow variation in the bathroom/kitchenette layout. Also showing furniture, etc., especially a pool table so you have the clearance necessary, is helpful.

One thing I would recommend is to study your 1st and 2nd floors. Most people now like an "openess" to the plan, not only for the larger feel but for versatility in functions those spaces serve together. Even with different rooms, they are laid out simply, not maze-like. Notice where doors are located and how they swing (usually not in the center of walls). Bathroom doors should not be visible from the large congregation areas. Long, linear closets (if not walk-in) create inaccessible portions. You try hard to hide posts/vertical chases in walls. Mechanical rooms should have required clearance around equipment and to remove appliances easily, and don't forget about make-up air requirements.

Habitable rooms are required to have operable windows that meet a certain size of glazing and opening, otherwise they are just for storage. If you have an HRV/ERV or something else there could be exceptions. 

Some things that will dictate the size of a room, regardless of where walls are laid out, is ductwork or plumbing soffits. Visually, an edge of a lower soffit is like having a wall there. If you have 9' ceilings, sometimes you can make a "tray" ceiling to hide runs naturally. With larger duct plenums, if possible position storage rooms there and remember ductwork may affect where recessed lighting can go. 

One modern requirement in basements is a media room/area. You have to pick a side in laying out the plan, either you want a separate room, or you want it partially/fully exposed to the other uses in the basement.

Mostly covered layout generalities, I "think" you may have considered some of them based on the layout I guessed on.


----------



## clay1g1 (Sep 20, 2019)

3onthetree said:


> Have you placed every function you desire, and is there a need for future considerations like an in-law suite, elevator, or wine cellar? I see a room accessed through a closet, and walkouts on either end of the basement (are you on a mountain peak?). Is there a room behind the stair? I do realize there may be limitations and unfamiliarity with the software used, but showing as much as you can with the overhead structure, HVAC and plumbing is also helpful visualizing spaces. Your appetite for moving underfloor plumbing a little will either dictate or allow variation in the bathroom/kitchenette layout. Also showing furniture, etc., especially a pool table so you have the clearance necessary, is helpful.
> 
> One thing I would recommend is to study your 1st and 2nd floors. Most people now like an "openess" to the plan, not only for the larger feel but for versatility in functions those spaces serve together. Even with different rooms, they are laid out simply, not maze-like. Notice where doors are located and how they swing (usually not in the center of walls). Bathroom doors should not be visible from the large congregation areas. Long, linear closets (if not walk-in) create inaccessible portions. You try hard to hide posts/vertical chases in walls. Mechanical rooms should have required clearance around equipment and to remove appliances easily, and don't forget about make-up air requirements.
> 
> ...


I've attached a revised floorplan. We pretty much have decided what and where the rooms in the basement will be used for (media/game rooms, gym, drum room, bathroom). The stairs you see go to the upstairs. Great words of wisdom in your post. Thanks!


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Is that wall really not square?


----------



## clay1g1 (Sep 20, 2019)

huesmann said:


> Is that wall really not square?


The drawings I've posted are just from a software program and my loose measurements. I might be off a hair in some walls but the drawings are a fair representation of my basement floorplan.


----------



## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

clay1g1 said:


> The drawings I've posted are just from a software program and my loose measurements. I might be off a hair in some walls but the drawings are a fair representation of my basement floorplan.


Hopefully you will have proper drawings done either by an architect, draftsman, or designer prior to permit/construction. A framer's forte is putting wooden sticks together. They do not want to waste time guessing on dimensions, stand around wondering why there is no 2x8 wet wall, or redo something later because it wasn't thought about. The better the plans, more than likely better the bid/price as well.

There are maybe a couple areas, like the stair that looks like it protrudes into the exterior porch upstairs might actually extend farther into the space. The columns have what looks like making a 30" clearance space (without column wraps?). That jog in the back room wall that I think Huesmann is referring to. The mech room(?) that enters from the closet.

It could be that you have all your ducks in order and just wanted to cover generalities, but many commenters here could write novels about all the ways to skin a cat. If you had more specifics in what you're doing or questions, say about insulation, reducing noise, your existing HVAC tie-in, low voltage, etc., the advice may zero in on those areas.


----------

