# toro 824 2 stage snowblower wont stay running without starting fluid



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

You should find out from the engine manufacturer whether or not your engine has electronic ignition or not.

If not, it will still have a "magneto" ignition system. Magnetos are extremely reliable, but the problem is that they still have a set of points that will get pitted from arcing and a condenser (or capacitor) that could go bad and hasten the pitting of the points. Instead of replacing your points, if you have a Tecumseh or Briggs & Stratton engine, you should be able to get an electronic ignition kit for that engine. The electronic ignition kits don't have points or a condenser in them and so you never really have ignition problems other than with the spark plug and maybe the ignition cable. That makes for much more reliable starting, espcially in an older machine.


----------



## MgMopar (Jul 31, 2004)

I would think a 2 stage snow blow has a 4 stroke motor. If so it may have a float bowl with a needle and seat. It is not uncommon for the needle to stick in the seat on equipment that has not been used for a while. Just something to check.


----------



## computergod2001 (Dec 22, 2008)

*toro 824*



MgMopar said:


> I would think a 2 stage snow blow has a 4 stroke motor. If so it may have a float bowl with a needle and seat. It is not uncommon for the needle to stick in the seat on equipment that has not been used for a while. Just something to check.


i have the same snowblower and mine was doing the same thing it turn out to be the governer need it ajusting now runs fine


----------



## MgMopar (Jul 31, 2004)

computergod2001 said:


> i have the same snowblower and mine was doing the same thing it turn out to be the governer need it ajusting now runs fine



Strange, I would think the governor would be closing the throttle plates and with that it would most likely flood out with starting fluid once it was running?? Still sounds like a fuel supply problem to me. I suggested the needle and seat not knowing if it had one but a common place to look. Another is to make sure you have fuel to the carb from the tank? Is there a filter that may be blocked or a shut off still or sticking off or maybe debris in the tank?


----------



## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

first off,,,throw that dam starter fluid away,,,you can lock up a motor and do damage to it with that crap. Use WD-40 instead,,,works better,lubes and starts motors that wont run. 

My dads John Deere blower didnt work after storage either. Here is what I found. when it was made ethanol wasnt around,,,rubber melts in ethanol,,,ALL gas has ethanol now instead of that bad stuff it replaced,,,at least SOME. Rubber vacum line that sucks fuel into carb was rotted off,,,think even the primer line was rotted off. anyway one little rubber tube resistant to alchol fixed her right up AND darn easy to do. 

Check your lines??? OR rubber hose could be swelled inside fuel line and not letting fuel THRU!!!Same effect!! Take off fuel line at carb ,see if it runs hard and long. That not being a prob,,,you can TRY just blowing the varnish gunk out of the carb and putting it back on,,,,sometimes doesnt even require a new kit

WD-40 fixes a flooded engine also!! IF it runs on wd-40 its fuel related,,,if it doesnt its spark related. Most anything WILL run on WD-40 better than gas. Its a dam poor penetrate tho,,,use kroil or PB Blaster for that,,,burn the wd-40 in the hard starters or set all year long motors first.


----------



## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

WD40 developed in 1953 as a rust preventative. WD stands for water displacement, 40 is the number of tries it took them to develop it.

Company claims over 200 uses for their product. 

While I agree that a snow blower will run on it. I do not agree that it is an effective way to get a hard to start engine to run. While the exact formula for WD40 is secret; it is my understanding it is just a very light oil mixed with solvent. (I am sure I will be corrected if wrong) While some solvents are more volatile than gasoline, oil is not. 

Starting fluid is an effective way to START your engine if used correctly. Just a short burst right before you crank it over. It should NOT be used to keep the engine running.

To the OP, I hope you got it running by now. Please post back and let us know what was wrong. I have to agree with those who said it is fuel related since it would run on starting fluid. I know you said you had the carb soaking in carb cleaner. did you disassemble it and blow out all the little holes? Did you check the float to make sure there were no pin hole leaks that would allow fuel in (this would flood the carb)? Check/replace the needle and seat? Install new gaskets around the bowl and mating surface to the intake?

Also as stated by 4just, make sure you check all your lines, they do deteriorate over time. Make sure your fuel tank is also cleaned out and use FRESH fuel.


----------

