# New ceiling!! need your vote!



## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

OK we are back again. recently we had the thread about tearing down the wall in the bedroom and getting new floors. so now that the walls are down, a new ceiling is needed. i also just want to say i really appreciate all the advice and input we have gotten for everything. i originally joined way back when we needed to replace our roof (that thread was like 50pages) and even now the sense of community here is amazing. i cant thank you guys enough for taking the time to look and offer suggestions.

so our latest idea is to use beadboard. the original ceiling had drop tiles, but we are not big fans of that.

here is what it looks like. not best picture. what we got is rafters with furring strips running perpendicular that held the tiles in before. 









so what do you guys think? we were going to do drywall, but we figure we can put up beadboard ourselves easier, since it's a little lighter and we wont have to do all the finishing. plus i like the look of it. any other ideas?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Yuk....

Personally, I would toss some 5/8" drywall up there....

Even if you decide to put something else...the drywall is cheap and makes for a good barrier to keep air contained.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so drywall is cheaper than beadboard? from our math it doesnt seem that way when you add everything up. maybe you can explain why since i am no expert


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

a more clear picture


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

ok so been reading the last few hours. beadboard sounds good. my next question is-what type nails should i use? 2inch is long enough right?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

How thick is the bead board? Thin material us held with building adhesive and brads---

3/4" needs finishing nails----I would still suggest a drywall backer---but you can be successful without it.


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## NestHI (Jan 11, 2013)

I like the look of bead board too. It would also look good with the existing wood paneling you have there already.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If it's what I'm thinking it's 1/8" thick and comes in 4'x8' sheets. If that is what you mean and I agree it is a nice look. I am going to assume you are going to paint it, not stain it. If that is the case I would suggest cut, prime, and paint before you install. Then go back and fill your nail holes, and touch up.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

If the beadboard is really masonite panelling, you'll need to put up drywall first and then glue the panelling to it. And if you exceed the 8' panel length, you'll need to use a cap strip or divider to hide the joint. You'll need to be very careful that your bead lines match from one sheet to the next or it will look like a hack job. If it's regular beaded boards, then that's a different animal. I've seen beadboard used as ceilings that really looked nice, but I've seen some poorly installed that looked terrible. Take your time and do it right.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not a big fan of bead board on a ceiling but if I had to do it I would not want to use any form of beaded paneling.
You then would have to go back and add something to cover up all the ugly seams everywhere.
If I did get stuck doing it I sure would use 1/2 Drywall first then 3/8 thick real T X G. You can get it up to 16' long.
It's installed just like hardwood flooring is installed.
I've been using a pneumatic narrow crown staple gun with 1-1/2 staples. The tip fits right on the tounge to make it easy to line up. 
With two people I've done a 12 X 15 room in less then a day.
When I see paneling on a ceiling my first thought it looks like a moble home.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Not masonite- wood
Not paneling-no finish solid wood
No seams to go back and hide-made so edges overlap and form a bead
Install with brad nailer or 16gauge nailer nail in bead groove and you don't have to go back and fill nail holes.
Takes paint well
I have used this stuff in bathrooms as wainscote. Cut it in 3 32" pieces, hold off floor the height of the baseboard, nail, reinstall base board, put a cap or chair rail on top, prime, paint the same as trim usually semi or gloss white.
Oh yea sell at HD for $21 a sheet.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> How thick is the bead board? Thin material us held with building adhesive and brads---
> 
> 3/4" needs finishing nails----I would still suggest a drywall backer---but you can be successful without it.


the beadboard is MDF 1/4in thick. we were going to rent a nail gun. so we figure 1/4in for furring strip, 1/4in for board, so 2inch nail. good? i rather not use adhesive to keep it easy


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> Not masonite- wood
> Not paneling-no finish solid wood
> No seams to go back and hide-made so edges overlap and form a bead
> Install with brad nailer or 16gauge nailer nail in bead groove and you don't have to go back and fill nail holes.
> ...


thank you. can you please state the name of this product? we are not using masonite. i was looking at the MDF sheets. 

also, isnt the difference between brad and 16gauge just that brad is 18guage?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Not a big fan of bead board on a ceiling but if I had to do it I would not want to use any form of beaded paneling.
> You then would have to go back and add something to cover up all the ugly seams everywhere.
> If I did get stuck doing it I sure would use 1/2 Drywall first then 3/8 thick real T X G. You can get it up to 16' long.
> It's installed just like hardwood flooring is installed.
> ...


well so the whole point was basically coming up with a alternative to drywall. what's TXG?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so wow! you guys are great! thank you so much!

so here is where we are going. the idea was to avoid using drywall to keep costs down. (since our other projects are already over budget. we ended up having 3 total structural engineers come out and look at the walls you guys advised about and one of them was $500 a pop). so basically we are trying to make this as DIY as possible. so even stupid cavemen like me can do it

so right now we are going with MDF 1/4in thickness. and i was thinking nailing them with air compressor. 18guage, 2inch nails. good?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

anyone know what T X G is? i cant seem to find it

edit- is this referring to tongue and groove?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

that was tedious. so they had nailed the drop ceiling to the furring strips with like 1746295435312 staples. just spent the day pulling out each staple one by one. it was easy, but so tedious. 

so the 2 rooms dimensions are 13x16 and 13x15 ft. so i am thinking about 400 sq ft total of beadboard to use. 

so at home depot with something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=202688627&catEntryId=202688627
it gives me 42sq ft. 

so 400/40=10. so at $65 per box 65x10= $650. so i will have a brand new ceiling for $650! thats a lot less than us hiring out a drywall guy. 

the only other expense is the nail gun, compressor, and nails. and of course, working my butt off!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

1 1/2"is long enough----Sounds like fun-----it is possible to end up not running a straight line--if you don't get the tongue and groove compressed evenly---every 4 feet or so--check your work with a string line---if you are in need of making a correction---do it gradually over the next three courses or so--


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

good reminder mike! i have never done this tongue and groove thing before, so any tips are appreciated! 

as usual, pictures will be posted, and laughs will happen. hopefully this time no ER visit


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

What about fire rating?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I just saw another thread of yours that mentioned this is on a second floor bedroom area--

You need drywall above the bead board---fire tape will be needed to meet code and the safety of your family---


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

i see. so basically there is nothing beyond the ceiling except for the roof. you can see from the pictures. no ducts, or anything. the only cause of fire i can see are perhaps the wire, but those are only for the lights. so without much cause for fire, why do i need drywall? i know code calls for it, but in real practicality i dont see an actual need.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so another question re nail gun:

should i use 18g or 16guage?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

18 guage is fine for your thin board----

I am concerned about fire stopping that---in the event of a fire in one room--the fire will not be contained for even a short time---and will cross over into the other rooms very quickly---

You have me worried now---please think about doing this safely---I like you and want you to be safe.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> 18 guage is fine for your thin board----
> 
> I am concerned about fire stopping that---in the event of a fire in one room--the fire will not be contained for even a short time---and will cross over into the other rooms very quickly---
> 
> You have me worried now---please think about doing this safely---I like you and want you to be safe.


you are the best mike! if only you lived closer.

the board is only going up for ceiling. that's it. so unless the fire is coming from teh roof, it wont really matter you know what i mean?

in fact i got the idea of using beadboard from the DIY tv show, and in their example they used it for a ceiling in the attic they renovated into a spare room, and they didnt put up drywall behind it


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That still makes me worried----please consider fire stopping to keep yourself safe----


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

The drywall (fireblocking) works both ways......if a fire starts in that room, it slows down the spread....if it starts in anther room, it gives the person in that room time to get out...

I would be willing to bet that if you don't put up 5/8" Type X drywall on the ceiling first, any inspection will fail....additionally, if you do have a fire, I bet your insurance company would not be real happy and you would not be happy with the outcome......not to mention opening yourself up to potential lawsuits.

One last point...the internet is a great place to get info....and it's a great place to get info.....for someone researching your actions....if by any chance you did have a fire...and someone decided to do some internet searching....and seeing how DIY chatroom comes up pretty quick on a Google search....it wouldn't take someone long to find this thread and see that you were 'advised' that you should put up drywall for fire blocking....once this fact came out in trial....it wouldn't last long.

Now, I know this sounds far fetched....but, it's not. I know of a couple of guys who are now unemployed because of their actions at work and then their comments on the internet....


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

point taken thanks


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

an aside question-why is that upstairs i need drywall, but if i installed downstairs i do not?? wouldnt fire act the same way regardless of what level?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

federer said:


> an aside question-why is that upstairs i need drywall, but if i installed downstairs i do not?? wouldnt fire act the same way regardless of what level?


All ceilings need drywall....

Just like a garage does....and if there is no drywall in the ceiling of the garage, you have to make sure the wall between the garage and house goes all the way to the roof.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so all the youtubes i watched of people putting up beadboard ceilings are all wrong!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I agree 100% with the drywall.
Your also going to find MDF does not hold nails well and will sag between every support.
I'd pass on the job if someone asked me to do it that way.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

joecaption said:


> I agree 100% with the drywall.
> Your also going to find MDF does not hold nails well and will sag between every support.
> I'd pass on the job if someone asked me to do it that way.


thanks joe

by the way whats this tXG stuff you were talking about? can you explain please? 

for that matter anyone know what Toolseeker was talking about too?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

another crazy question: how tough or expensive would it be to do plaster ceilings?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Plaster ceilings would not be a DIY project by any means.
What part of what I said did you not understand? 
Don't want to argue because it may be so is Cal. but in the U.S. all ceilings do not have to be drywalled.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> Plaster ceilings would not be a DIY project by any means.
> What part of what I said did you not understand?
> Don't want to argue because it may be so is Cal. but in the U.S. all ceilings do not have to be drywalled.


your previous post-you mentioned a material thats not masonite, but you never actually said what material it was. can you please specify?


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> Not masonite- wood
> *Not paneling-no finish solid wood
> No seams to go back and hide-made so edges overlap and form a bead
> Install with brad nailer or 16gauge nailer nail in bead groove and you don't have to go back and fill nail holes.
> ...


this post you made here. what are you talking about? do you just mean beadboard like i was saying?
edit: ok yea i think you were just referring to beadboard. yea thats what i prefer to do


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

federer said:


> this post you made here. what are you talking about? do you just mean beadboard like i was saying?
> edit: ok yea i think you were just referring to beadboard. yea thats what i prefer to do


Yes it is thin solid wood beadboard that comes in 4x8 sheets. At my box store it is in the trim dept under the mouldings. The reason I suggested a 16 ga instead of a brad is the 16 has a head although small this should help on a ceiling.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so something like this
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=202688627&catEntryId=202688627


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

No I was finally able to find it Sorry don't know how to post the link but go to Home Depot plybead. Let me know.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> No I was finally able to find it Sorry don't know how to post the link but go to Home Depot plybead. Let me know.


search for plybead?

you can right click at the top of the browser, and left click copy, then paste it into your reply box here


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

home depot ply bead - Google Search
I hope this is it. Never did it before.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

home depot ply bead - Google Search
I hope this is it. Never did it before. Guess it didn't work you can't click on it.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

no worries i can use google


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Wong one posted, That's for wainscoating.
This is plybead.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Wong one posted, That's for wainscoating.
> This is plybead.
> http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All


You are correct thank you Joe.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

so whats better about plybead over the other stuff?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I would not use it for what your trying to do, but it's stronger, will hold nails, will hold primer and paint, far less likly to sag. will not swell up like MDF.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

i see. thanks for teh input. so why does the other stuff say its for ceiling use?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No clue.
The people what have suggested doing this the right way do this for a living, we do not get paid for having to do call backs for code issues.
Where not going to make a dime by suggesting you do something safe and to code.
No doubt it will cost less at first to do it "your way" but it will be wrong, cause trouble later, would be a fire hazzared and if it was me would cost you later when you went to sell.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

*ok
you know what guys-me and my bro decided to take all your advice and go with drywall. horay for code! again, i truly appreciate all of you guys. when we are finally all done, you guys need to come over! 
joe you are what 3hr away?
*


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

downside is i dont get to buy my nail gun/ compressor


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

federer said:


> downside is i dont get to buy my nail gun/ compressor


Yes you do....you would not believe how many other things you can use it for.....keep an eye on CL....


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

federer said:


> *ok*
> *you know what guys-me and my bro decided to take all your advice and go with drywall. horay for code! again, i truly appreciate all of you guys. when we are finally all done, you guys need to come over! *
> *joe you are what 3hr away?*


I'll bring beer.....


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

BYOB everyone!

what else do i use nail gun and compressor for?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Baseboard moulding.....moulding around the doors.....blowing the dust out of cracks.....nailing facia on the outside of the house.....airing up your tires...blowing up the kiddie pool....

The list goes on....once you have one, you realize just how handy it is....


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

blowing dust! maybe i can use it in the yard for leaves!


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