# LP Smartside starter strip



## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

Is a starter strip necessary when using lp smartside lap siding? I have read the manuf installation instructions, read multiple online sources, and viewed install videos that indicate it is needed. HOWEVER, I just realized that our installer did not use one. When I asked him about it, he said it wasn't needed because in our situation the bottom course is not touching the concrete foundation block. I am getting frustrated with the installer's not following manufactuer's installation instructions. Do I need to be concerned?


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## BrowneBearLLC (Apr 8, 2015)

My question is what is holding the bottom edge of the siding to the house? If you can grab the bottom of the siding and pull it away then you have an issue that needs to be addressed. I hope that this helps


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## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

I believe the first course was nailed onto sheething just like all others, one inch from top of board. From what I can see from lp instructions starter strip is not used to nail the first course, it is used to create an angle on the lap to bring it's bottom edge away from the wall. your answer perplexes me. Please clarify.


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## BrowneBearLLC (Apr 8, 2015)

I’m sorry I see that I was referring to a different style of siding, the siding that you have is the same that I have in my house. I do know that it was not used on mine either and to me is just an appearance issue. Sorry for the misleading formation


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

JonkL said:


> it is used to create an angle on the lap to bring it's bottom edge away from the wall.


That is correct.......If the first coarse is laying flat on the wall and is not at the same angle as the rest if the siding then he should fix it. 

It's more for ascetics than anything else. It tells me that the installer is more concerned with being fast than what his job looks like.


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## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

Thank you for confirming. Should I insist that the rest of the walls be installed with the starter strip? Will not having thestrip effect anything other than aesthetics? I had considered diy install but I really dont have the time. But I also thought I did my research and hired a quality installer. They are listed on lp website.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

JonkL said:


> Thank you for confirming. Should I insist that the rest of the walls be installed with the starter strip? Will not having thestrip effect anything other than aesthetics? I had considered diy install but I really dont have the time. But I also thought I did my research and hired a quality installer. They are listed on lp website.


I don't know that it would hurt anything but it sure looks amateurish to me. I'd sure make them fix it.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

More of a kick out then a starter strip.
I would be more concered with there being a small gap at the bottom of the second row of siding because of the first row laying flat against the wall.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Two things; 1. lost manufacturer's warranty
2. less air moving behind the first board when flat to the WRB/sheathing (gain more water rather than starter strip gaining the water- if back painted; no worries- other than it is an OSB product) so it takes a lot longer to dry; http://www.articlesbase.com/home-an...-from-airspace-behind-your-siding-131102.html

Gary
PS. 3- really noticeable to a trained eye, as said...


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## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

Thank you Gary in Wa for your thoughts. Lost manufacturer warranty is one of my concerns, though I have always been of the belief that manufactueres will find SOMEWAY, ANYWAY to prove failure of product is due to a bad installation, be it windows, doors, floors, you name it. That being said, I am paying good money for this and want it done right. I guess I should have specified inmy contract to have install done per manuf specs. Live and learn. Guess I assumed it would be done that way. I paid extra for 3D raindrop product as WSB over 1970's celotex sheathing. Was told it would be better and would improve warranty. NOT IF OTHER PARTS OF INSTALL WERE NOT DONE TO SPEC! I am very frustrated! Why do I as the homeowner feel I have to follow up on the installer. In one spot, the raindrop was put on horizontally! ! It says right on it "must be installed with black lines vertical! Luckily it wasn't covered yet and I saw it. Was given some bs excuse about it being under and overhang so it shouldnt matter. Well, I have had water intrusion issues in other areas and Dont want to risk the "shouldn't". "If you want something done right, do it yourself" is that the old saying. Thank you again for your thoughts and the article.


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## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

Gary, the article you sent brings up another question. In our front we have a box bay window under a gable. Their is soffit on both sides of the window where the gable end is interrupted by the window. So window glass is flush with the gable. The wall juts "in" on either side of the box bay about a foot. Should the siding be back painted for the course that will be at the bottom of the gable. So that the edge doesnt wick up water? Sorry dont have digital camera so cant post a picture. Did my amateur explanation make sense?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Cedar siding wicks water, cement board siding doesn't; http://www.forestprod.org/woodprotection06tsongas.pdf Whoops, wrong siding but a good link anyhow....

That said, SmartS does retain water as a reservoir siding, this bottom board flat against the WRB I mentioned- could lead to problems. http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/reservoir-claddings

BUT, you have a WRB that sounds pretty effective; http://www.trustgreenguard.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/PS-BWRD.pdf Before I comment on the low perm rating, could you describe the wall make-up, please?

Surprised you didn't add exterior foam due to your location; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu....gov/EnergyCodeReqs/index.jsp?state=Wisconsin

http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-071-joni-mitchell-water-and-walls

Gary


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## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

In order to add an exterior foam, we would have had to remove the celotex otherwise the siding would end up sticking out past the window brick moulding. the Celotex is in good condition, and spending even more money was an issue. payback would be pretty long, I think. thank you for your thoughts.


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## JonkL (May 31, 2015)

what do you mean by wall make up? Interior is drywall, insulation behind it, then celotex, then WRB, then smartside on exterior.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I was asking in case there was an interior vapor barrier/retarder. The 3D is 16 perm, which will work. Good to go.

Gary


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