# wireless outlet receiver / transmitter



## LyonsElecSupply (Jun 16, 2010)

Im at a loss......

But, what you could use is an RF system.....Lutron has such a system...

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/367-1637.pdf

Its the Lamp dimmer and Mounted controller.........I would say that would be the best, except you would have to use the wireless switch.....Its a compromise but would allow you to switch that lamp remotely.


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## psa (Feb 7, 2011)

LyonsElecSupply said:


> Im at a loss......
> 
> But, what you could use is an RF system.....Lutron has such a system...
> 
> ...



yeah I've seen plenty of those "*remote*" control outlets...I'm trying to avoid adding a new switch to the room and I'd like to be able to have one switch turn on 2 outlets. I guess I could rewire the outlets since I have a crawl space under the room I'm trying to do this to.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

x-10 automation, you can do this for under $20

X-10 power flash module as the transmitter

X-10 appliance module as the receiver


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## psa (Feb 7, 2011)

rjniles said:


> x-10 automation, you can do this for under $20
> 
> X-10 power flash module as the transmitter
> 
> X-10 appliance module as the receiver



Excellent...!..:thumbup:..!...I noticed the Power Flash Module is mainly used for a home alarm system. I'm assuming all I need to do is match up the numbers on both units and I'm good to go.... I already have a Lamp Module...that should be OK to use instead of the Appliance Module...?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

The lamp mdule will work fine but do not use a CFL bulb; if you want CFL you will have to use an appliance module. Set the power flash to dry contact closure and put a jumper across the terminals.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Re-thought my solution and it has a flaw. The power flash will turn the light on as I described but when you turn the power off it will disable the power flash and it will not send the off command.

Instead: assuming that switched outlet is only half switched (top or bottom), plug the pwer flash into the always live side and plug a small 9-15 volt AC or DC wall wart (transformer) into the switched side. Connect the low voltage side of the transformer to the power flash. Option the power flash for low volts input.

Now the power flash is live all the time. When you throw the switch in will liven the half of the outlet with the transformer and send low voyage to the power flash and it will send the on command. Turn the switch off and will remove low volts from the power flash and it will send the off command.


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## psa (Feb 7, 2011)

rjniles said:


> Re-thought my solution and it has a flaw. The power flash will turn the light on as I described but when you turn the power off it will disable the power flash and it will not send the off command.
> 
> Instead: assuming that switched outlet is only half switched (top or bottom), plug the pwer flash into the always live side and plug a small 9-15 volt AC or DC wall wart (transformer) into the switched side. Connect the low voltage side of the transformer to the power flash. Option the power flash for low volts input.
> 
> Now the power flash is live all the time. When you throw the switch in will liven the half of the outlet with the transformer and send low voyage to the power flash and it will send the on command. Turn the switch off and will remove low volts from the power flash and it will send the off command.



OK...my head hurts....:wink:....but I *do* understand what you're saying.....

I just ordered my PowerFlash and should get it in a few days...

So a "Wall Wart" is nothing more than a typical transformer that you would plug into ...for example a cell phone charger....that reduces the voltage down to a specific voltage...say 12v...??...just never heard the term "Wall Wart"....

Once I have my PowerFlash I give it a shot...and post a update....

thx for the help....:thumbsup:....much appreciated...


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## psa (Feb 7, 2011)

Just did a "test"...I plugged everything up and when I plugged in the wall wart my lamp came *ON*...when I un-plugged the wall wart my lamp went *"OFF"*...had about a 2 sec. delay before my lamp turned *"OFF" *.....info from another forum said the *"OFF"* delay was due to the DC wall wart had to discharged enough to turn the powerflasher *"OFF"*. Maybe a AC to AC wall wart might work quicker.


I have to move a very large cabinet to gain access to the "switched" outlet I need to plug everything into....and I'll probably pick a different address rather than "A1" even though I currently have no other X10 devices in use in my home....but that may change in the future.. 

Thx for the help...:thumbsup:


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## scooter123 (Feb 19, 2011)

I would like to do the same kind of thing but what I want to do is a little different. I have included an attachment. Instead of plugging into a second outlet, I just want that first outlet to relay to a light I'm putting on the ceiling. 
The ceiling light can either be hard wired or I can put a plug on the end of it. 

Any idea how I would do this? I would appreciate any help with this project.

As psa said I don't want a second switch either. There are plenty of switch/socket solutions out there. One thing I noticed with the switch/socket solution is that they only include 1 socket per switch. What happens when my light has multiple bulbs. Only 1 bulb coming on in a 2 or 3 bulb light doesn't do me any good.


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## oberkc (Dec 3, 2009)

I use insteon devices for this. They work well. I also use some X-10, but prefer insteon. Other options are Z-wave, UPB, zigbee. I think many of the lutron versions are Z-wave. There are also some professional installs such as control4. 

My suggestion is to replace the light switch with an insteon (or pick one) version. You would then electronically link that switch to whatever slave devices you want to control, including plug-in or hard-wired modules.

I get my devices online at smarthome.com


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