# Ceiling Primer/Paint not Sticking



## Shoals (Nov 12, 2011)

Yesterday I scraped popcorn off my kitchen ceiling and then painted with Olympic One Primer/Paint. The ceiling had previously been painted before popcorn was applied. Today the paint is blistering up and coming off the ceiling in various places. I don't understand why this happened but more importantly, don't know how to fix it. Will I have to scrap the entire ceiling (or just what is loose) and then use sheetrock mud to patch the different levels or will another coat of paint cover it? What can I do to make the paint stick?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I think this is a classic example of how the all in one paint is really BS. You needed a real primer that would penetrate the dusty surface that was left after scraping. 

Also the degree that you removed the old tex makes a difference because the mud that texture is bound with is not a stong bonder- so it itself doesn't adhere to the previous paint well. 
Your new coat created enough pull to rip it away from the paint.

That pic is pretty small- is it just in a few spots or all over?
Its hard to know how to advise you. but if there was a substantial amount of the tex mud left- a re-scrape and then prime with a good penetrating bonding primer ( Gardz, peel stop, Smart prime, all come to mind) will be needed.
You also coud do as you said, scrape the loose stuff THEN prime( I would prime whole ceiling)- then mud, spot pime mud- finish paint.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

As my esteemed colleague has said, scrape all loose and peeling areas, patch as needed, clean( get all the dust off) Prime with Gardz( or other bonding primer) , paint with paint from a real paint store.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Did you use water to remove the popcorn? And, how long did you let it dry before painting?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Brushjockey said:


> I think this is a classic example of how the all in one paint is really BS.


:thumbup: There is and can never be such a thing as paint and primer in one!


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## Gili (Jan 2, 2012)

*Me too*

Don't use this Olympic primer/paint. Same thing w me! Im sanding sections & repainting w thinner layers. Gonna use Behr next time


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Gili said:


> Don't use this Olympic primer/paint. Same thing w me! Im sanding sections & repainting w thinner layers. Gonna use Behr next time


Well at least we got discussions of absolute crap paint in one post! :thumbup:BEHRly paint at all should never be used but to paint the logo on the can. If you can get applied and to stick.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

sdsester said:


> Well at least we got discussions of absolute crap paint in one post! :thumbup:BEHRly paint at all should never be used but to paint the logo on the can. If you can get applied and to stick.


I guess I'll be the one who continues to point out that you're wrong.

If the surface is not wet or oily, and proper primer is used, Behr Ceiling Paint, or even Semi-Gloss (for the kitchen) will work fine. It's not the best paint on the market, but rather falls right in the middle or the price/quality spectrum, along with a whole host of other paints.

Please refer to the Sticky at the top of this sub-forum."This is a how to site, not a why I hate this product site."


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Wear a cap have an umbrella handy with that watered down crap.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

sdsester said:


> Wear a cap have an umbrella handy with that watered down crap.


I do exactly that before reading every one of your comments - and for obvious reasons.


Learn to paint, ya hack.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Lighten up there Doc---no need to take this personally---Mike--(grumpy moderator)


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> Lighten up there Doc---no need to take this personally---Mike--(grumpy moderator)


Okay, I'll not bother correcting horrible mis-information. :thumbsup:


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

DrHicks said:


> Okay, I'll not bother correcting horrible mis-information. :thumbsup:


 Anothers OPINION is not necessairly mis-infornation.
You think Behr is fine, others don't ,it is just opinion

Who freekin cares in the long run?


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

sdsester said:


> Wear a cap have an umbrella handy with that watered down crap.


That's good advice to anyone who mentions Behr around here!


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

chrisn said:


> Anothers OPINION is not necessairly mis-infornation.
> You think Behr is fine, others don't ,it is just opinion
> 
> Who freekin cares in the long run?


Only those who (obviously) have stock in SW or BM, and cannot handle the fact that millions of people choose a mid-grade paint, rather than an expensive top of the line paint.

Not everybody is willing to spend $65 per gallon for paint, nor should they.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

DrHicks said:


> Only those who (obviously) have stock in SW or BM, and cannot handle the fact that millions of people choose a mid-grade paint, rather than an expensive top of the line paint.
> 
> Not everybody is willing to spend $65 per gallon for paint, nor should they.[/quote]
> 
> ...


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

chrisn said:


> DrHicks said:
> 
> 
> > Only those who (obviously) have stock in SW or BM, and cannot handle the fact that millions of people choose a mid-grade paint, rather than an expensive top of the line paint.
> ...


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## Rob1975 (Apr 30, 2011)

DrHicks said:


> Only those who (obviously) have stock in SW or BM, and cannot handle the fact that millions of people choose a mid-grade paint, rather than an expensive top of the line paint.
> 
> Not everybody is willing to spend $65 per gallon for paint, nor should they.


If you don't understand why it costs $65 then you don't understand paint. And to suggest that BM paint costs $65 per gallon is just plain silly, and shows that you have never been to a JC Licht store. Super Spec out performs Behr for about the same price.

As far as their Aura line, paint one room in Behr and another in Aura. I would lay money that anyone's customers would prefer the fit and finish of Aura, plus the low VOC, over Behr any day. You can touch up with no flashing. It's a far superior paint.

I mean really, what are you saving by cheaping out on paint?

To the OP, your problem has to do with prep. 90% of painting is prep, prep, prep. After sanding and scraping you need to wipe it down. I wouldn't recommend water, it causes too much delay in the process and the benefit is negligible. 

Take a broom and whisk as much dust and debris out of your field, and then, as stated, use a nice bonding primer, like Gardz.

The purpose of primer is to bond to the painting surface and give your paint something to grab. Therefore it is mostly made up of glues and binders, with a little pigment. Gardz is designed specifically for your application. There is also a product called Peel Stop, which works great for paint that is pealing and chalking. I use Gardz a lot and it has never let me down.

Good luck with your project! We've all been there.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I just applied the 65 dollar paint to one of my good clients open hall/stairs.
3 young girls, their friends, 2 springer spaniels, a cat. A dark green ( HC- 98). I am not worried about scuffing, or pigment rubbing off. takes a beating and keeps on ticking. Touches up when it gets needed.
No hesitation whatsoever to recommend and apply this paint in this situation. None. Worth every penny.


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## Rob1975 (Apr 30, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> I just applied the 65 dollar paint to one of my good clients open hall/stairs.
> 3 young girls, their friends, 2 springer spaniels, a cat. A dark green ( HC- 98). I am not worried about scuffing, or pigment rubbing off. takes a beating and keeps on ticking. Touches up when it gets needed.
> No hesitation whatsoever to recommend and apply this paint in this situation. None. Worth every penny.


I love being able to touch up and have it blend right in.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

sdsester said:


> chrisn said:
> 
> 
> > Me neither. I nor my clients have ever spent that kind of money for paint. :wink:
> ...


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## shives (Jan 5, 2012)

I agree with most of the comments but a good thing to remember about paint is a surface should always be clean dull and dry and paint will stick if the surface is bare always prime with the right primer. In your case i believe the surface was wet to cause all the blistering that i see from that small pic.


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## rochele20 (Dec 30, 2011)

Hmm...I was about to post a thread on a topic about this when I came to here. If you want your paint to stay longer, use primer.


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