# Drywall over plaster over a block wall?!?



## DCRAM (Sep 28, 2012)

Hello All,

This is my first post and I'm sure it's an interesting dilemma.

Long story short, I am the board president of a condominium association and we are looking to remodel our interior hallways. Our walls are made of block concrete with plaster over them (this condo was built in the late 1950's). Anyway somewhere a long the line, the previous condo board decided it would be a great idea to glue carpet on the walls to keep the sound level down & to protect the walls. Needless to say, this was short term thinking, as some years later the carpet is now bubbling, looks horrible, stained, and just needs to go.

So here is where I need some help from you all. We've had contractors come in to check out our place and they all are offering different recommendations.

Some contractors are saying the best thing to do is remove the carpet and scrape away the old glue from the wall and skim coat smooth. Keep in mind this complex is 6 buildings and 4 levels each so that is A LOT of work and $$$. I just can't imagine how hard and difficult it would be to remove the yellow glue THEN skim coat that many walls.

Other contractors are suggest they just remove the carpet and place 1/2 inch drywall over the plaster that is over the block wall. They say they can attach the drywall by glue and concrete screws. They recommend 1/2 vs 1/4 because they feel the 1/4 drywall will mold to the plaster and bend and curve with it overtime causing a surface that won't be straight.

The contractors who recommend the first option say that putting drywall over our exisiting wall wouldn't work because there is nothing for it to hold on to.

Does the second option sound like a good idea that will work and last a long time? What are the draw backs of this?

We can't add a frame over the current wall because this is in a hallway/stairwell and the space is very limited as is.

I'm curious to hear your thoughts & opinions!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Using 1/2" drywall would throw off all the door casings.
If the door casings are wood then they can be removed and the 1/4" installed so it's only under the casing by about 1/2 so it will sit flat on the jambs.
I do not see where using 1/4 would look any differant then the old paster did.
There not going to be installing enough screws to make the wall wave.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Why drywall in the first place?


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## DCRAM (Sep 28, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Using 1/2" drywall would throw off all the door casings.
> If the door casings are wood then they can be removed and the 1/4" installed so it's only under the casing by about 1/2 so it will sit flat on the jambs.
> I do not see where using 1/4 would look any different then the old paster did.
> There not going to be installing enough screws to make the wall wave.


Luckly the way the building was structured, the walls stick out about 4-5 inches from the doors. The walls aren't flush with the doors. So they can stop the new drywall were the indentation occurs and just scrape away the old glue from the areas near the jambs. They are designed somewhat like the pic in this link:











joecaption said:


> Why drywall in the first place?


You tell me? That's what they recommended. Either that or just scrap away the old glue and skim it. If you have other ideas, I'd be very interested in hearing it.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i would test to see how well the plaster is stuck to the block. if it comes off easily, then have it removed and start over.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

My recommendation would be to tear it all off put up furring strips then if noise was the issue (or seemed to be) I would use at least use 5/8" drywall or look into a product called quiet rock whice is made for noise suppression but costly. I feel by the time they rip the old carpet and glue off there will be a lot of damage and with 1/4 or even 1/2" glued on top unless the repairs are spot on they will eventually telegraph thru the rock. And to use concrete screws in drywall with out tearing the paper would be chancy at best. I don't know your budget but if this seems too much maybe do 1 building at a time.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

DCRAM said:


> Luckly the way the building was structured, the walls stick out about 4-5 inches from the doors. The walls aren't flush with the doors. So they can stop the new drywall were the indentation occurs and just scrape away the old glue from the areas near the jambs. They are designed somewhat like the pic in this link:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Right there, you have the answer:thumbsup:


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