# 3-prong vs 4-prong dryer plug



## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

OK, this is going to sound strange, but bare with me. 

We recently moved into a new house and the dryer outlet was a 3-prong outlet. Our old house was a 4-prong outlet. So I buy a new plug and swap them out. No problem. However, we used to put the dryer on 30 minutes and a load of pants would be smokin hot when it was done. With the new 3-prong plug, we set it for 30 mins and they're still damp when it finished. It now takes close to an hour to get the pants dry.

So my question is, is there a difference between plugs? Could a 3-prong plug really cause an increase in drying time? Could it just be coincidence that the dryer started having problems just as we moved? What other factors should I look at to see if it's the cause (vent hose?)?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Check the vent to make sure it is not blocked or kincked.
If the receptacle wired correctly, you will not see any difference in preformance.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

agree 240 volt element 3-prong 4- prong same voltage.....apply previous post from jbfan...ben


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Ok, will check. Could length of vent hose be an issue? The laundry room is in an area of the house that has the roof sloping down - so the hose goes through the wall, through about 4 feet of "attic" and then outside.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Lenght of run, number of 90's all play a factor.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What should have been done is to run a whole new 10-4 wire back to the panel to match the new 4 prong outlet.
Sounds like you now have it wired for 110 volts not 220.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Ok, not any 90's, but the length of run is much longer than the old house.


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## forresth (Feb 19, 2010)

thaKing said:


> Ok, not any 90's, but the length of run is much longer than the old house.


Got the manual for the dryer? Mine told me what the max run would be and how to count the bends.

How could there be no 90s? That flex crap is a fire hazard. Remove it if that is the case.

check to make sure you don't have a hot and a neutral reversed or something.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

How can there be no 90's? I assume you mean angles, am I correct? If so, well it's easy - it goes straight out the wall. If 90's mean something different, please correct me. Pretty sure wires are connected correctly, but I can check again.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

If you went from 4 to 3 prong-you *must* reconnect the cabinet ground strap that was disconnected when it was a 4 pronger[shock hazard]..you don't give brand or model # but clothes should never have been "smokin hot" at end of cycle [they all have a cool down period]. if they were- somethings wrong. you can only use the flex hose from dryer to wall-from there it has to be rigid [fire hazard]. easy way to check vent is; disconnect from dryer and run a load of towels-45/60 min...each 90* equals about 5' vent.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

I'm going by memory here, but the 4 prong had a ground "built-in" and when I connected the 3 prong, there was a ground wire on the dryer that had to be re-attached. Is that the strap you're referring to?

Brand - LG, don't have model number with me.

Sorry, when I say "smoking hot" I meant nice and warm, fresh from the dryer "hot". Right now, they are coming out cold and a little damp. So we are running it longer than we used to run it.

I've attached a *crude* drawing of the setup. Green is dryer and red is flex hose. It runs through interior wall out to exterior wall and ends. Are you saying that is incorrect? We should have a rigid line in there (which is a fire hazard?)? And the distance here is 10', for arguments sake. So this would be 2 90's?


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## forresth (Feb 19, 2010)

replace the flex pipe in the wall ASAP. that might be part of your problem too if there is lint build-up.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Ok, so flex from dryer to interior wall, but replace from interior wall to exterior? Replace with the fire hazard pipe?


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Use rigid metal all the way. Do not use screws. Use metal foil tape. If the problem continues, also check the belt on your washing machine. Perhaps it was jostled during the move, and is not adequately spinning the clothes.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Hmm, ok. Never used the rigid, always the flexible. I'll have to check that out then. Thanks.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

So you do you not have warm clothes?

Can you run the dryer without clothes, open it and find warmth?

Tell how the wires are connected to the dryer.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Sorry for the confusion. In our old house we could dry a load of pants in about 30 mins (40 for a large load). In new house it takes closer to an hour to dry. I do get them warm and dry, it jus takes much longer. 

And are you asking me to describe how the wires are connected? If so, I'll do that as soon as I get home. In fact, I'll try to take a pic and upload.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

If your washer is a top loader not front load [600 v 1000 ish rpm in spin] that "close to an hour" sounds ok. if not; you may have slight vac drop in new house which is accounting for the increased time..assuming your vent is ok...more sxxx to check!!


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Front load washer. Will post photo of back of dryer when I get back from training today.


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## thaKing (Oct 24, 2011)

Here's the long awaited photo.


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