# Front door threshold adjusted, now leaking



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Adjustment of the threshold does not require recaulking. It should have space to drain engineered into it.

A storm door should provide you with some additional coverage.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> Adjustment of the threshold does not require recaulking. It should have space to drain engineered into it.
> 
> A storm door should provide you with some additional coverage.


 
Thanks, just seems weird that water started coming from those places after that adjustment. Is it possible the wind just blew it past that "drain"? I have had all kinds of issues w/ keeping out the weather on this door. Hoping the storm door will keep it all in check. Maybe I will take some pics to see if anyone thinks something else is out of whack.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Is there a stoop, deck, porch set even with the threshold on the outside of that door? If so there's 99% of your problum.

Was there a sill pan installed under the door?

How was it flashed under the door?

Is there a seal installed at the bottom of the door it's self?


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Is there a stoop, deck, porch set even with the threshold on the outside of that door? If so there's 99% of your problum.
> 
> Was there a sill pan installed under the door?
> 
> ...


I have brick outside the door, so the door sits on bricks which are a step up from the small, concrete front porch. I think the answer to your next two questions is no...I didn't see any of those things when we had the floor up. What seal at the bottom are you speaking of? I will really have to take a few pics.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Doors_Exterior3.htm

Aslo Google "sill Jamb" for some pictures of a one piece vinyl one that works even better.

Without the flashing you can count on the rot happening again.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

joecaption said:


> http://inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Doors_Exterior3.htm
> 
> Aslo Google "sill Jamb" for some pictures of a one piece vinyl one that works even better.
> 
> Without the flashing you can count on the rot happening again.


Great diagram, thanks! I suppose the whole door/jam has to come out to install something like that? Also, in my application w/ brick instead of a deck outside, where would the flashing stop, just past he aluminum threshold?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The whole door would have to come out to do it right.
Once it's out is there a space between the brick and the subflooring where you could slide the flashing in?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Prior to removing the door, you can seal the brick sill with Siloxane. That will help with the capillary movement.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I would recommend the flashing or ceil pan dump water on the outside of the brick instead of the space between the brick and the band, the water could rot your band if the water dumps into the hollow space.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

So what can I do as a temporary solution? Can I go ahead an caulk under the adjustable threshold? I already have calk at the front of the aluminum threshold, where it meets the brick


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Until you can install the ceil pan the only suggestion I have is caulk everywhere you can that could let water in but chances are until you install a pan it will continue to leak. If water is coming through between the door and jamb, you might want to replace your weather stripping. If water is coming in over the threshold strip and under the door, you may install a water diverter on the lower part of your door just above the threshold. Another thing that may help is a water diverter on your roof overhang above the door.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

i bought a new weather strip for the bottom of the door, that is part of my problem. I also caulked the corners and under the threshold (the adjustable threshhold). Attached are some pics of the door.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

dankoos said:


> i bought a new weather strip for the bottom of the door, that is part of my problem. I also caulked the corners and under the threshold (the adjustable threshhold). Attached are some pics of the door.


FYI, this is BEFORE the new weather strip and caulking.

Wanted to let the caulk set overnight, going to test w/ hose today


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...DC6308&qpvt=exterior+door+sweep+with+drip+cap

This is what I like to use.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

joecaption said:


> http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...DC6308&qpvt=exterior+door+sweep+with+drip+cap
> 
> This is what I like to use.


I saw that, but ended up w/ the one that attaches to the bottom...if this doesn't work good or doesn't last, i will probably try that next. With the new weatherstripping and the new sweep and the caulking, the door closes pretty tight, i don't see any light coming through...so hopefully it passes the hose test and I will be good...for a while anyway.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Did you replace the weather strip on the underside of the door? Even new that type of strip is likely to leak with a heavy wind. A storm door or water diverter on the bottom of your door would be a help.

Joe beat me to it, that is the diverter I was talking about.


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## dankoos (Oct 15, 2012)

BigJim said:


> Did you replace the weather strip on the underside of the door? Even new that type of strip is likely to leak with a heavy wind. A storm door or water diverter on the bottom of your door would be a help.
> 
> Joe beat me to it, that is the diverter I was talking about.


I did..that is what I was talking about w/ the other gentleman. It does get beat up pretty fast, and YES, my immediate plan calls for a storm door which I believe will help a LOT. Anyone ever try the Andersen 2500 series storm door? Its between that from HD or a Larson from Lowes.


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