# how do i connect a bent copper pipe......



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

How big is it--1/2" 3/4" ??

How badly is it out of round?

Often using a tubing cutter and making a fresh cut --as little as you can--and doing it in such a way as you are actually using the cutter to get the pipe round again--will allow you to add a copper coupling or a brass compression fitting.


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## curlybird (Oct 6, 2011)

thanks mike. that is what we have tried to do but it hasn't worked. it is 22mm. we are thinking we will have to use some 22mm rubber hose with metal clips and somehow connect it to a straight bit of pipe. we hardly have any room to spare as this is all to fit under a new spa bath. any suggestions appreciated!!!!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Don't trust a clamped fitting on a pressure line--Don't do that---

cutting didn't get it round enough to tap on a sweat coupling?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Is there a Shark Bite type of fitting available for that size tubing?

Where are you? Metric pipe suggests The UK.


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## curlybird (Oct 6, 2011)

We are in sunny scotland! OK - to give you more info - we are trying to connect a new bath to existing pipes that are about 40 yrs old. The pipe sticking through the floor is short, and bent from top to bottom. Not straight at all. When we try to attach it to a pushfit fitting (i assume this is what you mean by sharkbite) it just leaks. Have tried to cut it but same thing happens and it's getting shorter and shorter! Under the floor it is connected to a T piece. We now think we will have to get under the floor, cut out the T piece reconnect the whole thing with new pipe. Which is ok except we have never done plumbing before ever!!! So we need to make sure this is a reasonable suggestion before we start chopping things :laughing:
how's the weather in illinois?!


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## Durt Ferguson (Apr 14, 2010)

I don't think you would have to cut the tee out. You should be able to heat it up to remove the fitting (assuming is soldered on). Get a new tee (they're cheap and easier than trying to reuse an old one). Make sure that you completely clean the ends of the existing two other pieces that went into the tee. Solder on the new tee and the replacement piece of copper pipe.

Soldering is not difficult if you spend some time practicing on scrap first. Don't try to learn on your actual plumbing. The key is to prep the pieces well, make sure the entire joint is heated through before applying the solder, and clean up any overflow right away with a damp rag, you can get leak-free, professional looking results. If there is flammable material near where you're soldering (i.e. wood), place a piece of sheet metal behind the joint to keep the fire away from it.


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## curlybird (Oct 6, 2011)

thank you - didn't realise you could remove a soldered fitting by heating it up! another question - how do you solder wet pipes?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You need to have the pipes clean--sand paper is the tool---then paste flux--(solder will only flow where there is flux) --then plumbing solder---

The pipes must be dry---any water in the pipes will cool the pipe to much for the solder to flow--

A propane touch will do---when soldering a T--always have all three pipes installed as you will scorch the empty hole if you leave a pipe out.

Always use a tubing cutter ---never a saw---

I seldom torch off an old fitting--I usually cut and install a new section of pipe---Just me---it's faster and you don't have to deal with a dirty end that might be hard to get a new fitting onto.

Your 'push on' fittings might be an answer if you are not good with a torch.


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## Durt Ferguson (Apr 14, 2010)

curlybird said:


> thank you - didn't realise you could remove a soldered fitting by heating it up! another question - how do you solder wet pipes?


You can remove it that way, you just have to make sure that after you do, you completely clean the pipe ends before attempting to re-solder. They should be so clean they look like shiny new pipe. Anything left on there can compromise the seal from soldering. And if you solder it up and it leaks, you need to re-clean everything. Don't try to re-solder over solder.

You can take a piece of white bread (the doughy part, not the crust) and cram it into the pipe. It should give you long enough to solder before it breaks down. Don't forget to shut the water off, obviously.

Good luck!


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## curlybird (Oct 6, 2011)

thanks guys, will try and sort it tomorrow - and if we have any problems we'll come and ask you for help again ha ha :thumbsup:


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## Durt Ferguson (Apr 14, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> Your 'push on' fittings might be an answer if you are not good with a torch.


+1 on the shark-bite fittings, they might be your savior here! I don't know anything about Scotland, other than I love Scotch, but I think here some municipalities have rules against using them in areas that are going to be unexposed (i.e. behind walls, under floors), might want to check. Or just do it. Your call :thumbup:


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Do you own a flaring block or know someone who does and do you know how to use it??


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

COLDIRON said:


> Do you own a flaring block or know someone who does and do you know how to use it??


You can not flare drawn (hard) copper.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

rjniles said:


> You can not flare drawn (hard) copper.


Thanks, I know quite well what you can do with a flaring block I have been flaring for 40 years.

It is a way of rounding the pipe back into shape if you have the right size tool you can place it over the end of the pipe and straighten it our enough to get a fitting on it. Not Flare it.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

COLDIRON said:


> Thanks, I know quite well what you can do with a flaring block I have been flaring for 40 years.
> 
> It is a way of rounding the pipe back into shape if you have the right size tool you can place it over the end of the pipe and straighten it our enough to get a fitting on it. Not Flare it.



Thanks for that---I learned something new!


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