# watch my video and please help



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Your link doesn't work.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... yer vid is Private, 'n can't be seen....

why don't ya just Explain yer situation to Us....


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Link is not working...says it's a "Private Video".:yes:


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

Should work now


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I don't see any plywood anywhere, I do see OSB however.

Install the OSB next. Then arrive at the proper measurements for boxing the chimney and build four wall-units. If you want the chimney box to be square you will build two wall-units of the same size and the other two wall-units of a different dimension but both of them the same size also. Then assemble the box one wall-unit at a time.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

How is this being supported?

No plans or permits I take it.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Your "spliced" support next to the chimney where the two joists butt together looks like it may work loose and begin to sag over time.

Other than that, a non-bearing wall WILL work there if you simply run the "plywood" to the chimney sides of all the surrounding 2x's, then build the walls right on top of the "plywood". Although, you really SHOULD always have well supported, doubled 2x's under any wall.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Sorry, Ron. I see we posted at the same time.


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

I have a supporting beam under that splice its not going anywhere I don't think


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

I got all my permits too


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)




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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

Sorry guys about my terminology I know it is osb just said plywood


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Finish the floor and sheet it before starting any walls. 

How thick is the osb? You should be using ¾” tongue and groove. Be sure to glue the sheathing to the joist. 

It looks like you only have the ledgers lagged every 4’ or so, and you said the plate you lagged to was questionable. Do you mean rotted? 

Didn’t you have to submit plans to get the permit?


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

the reason i lagged a 2-12 was because the sill place consisted of 3 different 2-8 stacked on top of each other and were not even so i could not put any hangers on them with them being straight. i am using 3/4 osb and yes i am gluing down the osb to the joist.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Anybody care about concept like square anymore? That framing around the chimney looks really, really weird to me. Granted masons can go mad as hatters but I have never seen one yet that sets a foundation for their work and builds so off square from the foundation as I see in the pictures.

String an imaginary chalk line just off the front of the masons work. Does not everything looked wacked around it? 

Gus with a nail gun framing thinks me. No need for a square or other ancient device.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Sorry guys about my terminology I know it is osb just said plywood


Doctor talking to patient:
Whoops Mr. Jones, I knew you were here for heart surgery but I decided to operate on your knee instead. Oh well, same-o same-o maybe. Mr. Jones? Mr. Jones? Can you hear me Mr. Jones? Oh-oh!


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

to answer your main question, I would put the sub-floor down first, followed by a firestop made out of galvanized or even drip-edge works pretty well. Then frame the wall on top of that. You need to stay at least 2 inches away from the chimney with any combustible material.

edit: keep in mind that the chimney may not be plumb so the 2" at the base might need to be 3" (for example) to keep the walls plumb.

edit 2: I really hate that connection point of the joists around the chimney. I'm thinking that won't pass inspection unless you put a post right under the splice.


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

thanks for the help guys, and i dont really understand the mr jones jokes but whatever have fun with it..lol..the chimney is really off square from foundation. nothing is square


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Level, square, plumb and other mantras I cannot remember at the moment. I pay sub-contractors for their memories.

Your house should have started somewhat square. Even if not a cult person, every mason I have ever worked with demands their own foundation perfectly square to start. And they check their work all the way up.

No way the perfect looking chimney in your photo can be blamed for the absolute framing disaster you show.

You are so far off square, just to start, You are framing on nothing real at the angles shown. 

When in doubt. Always, absolutely always trust the mason of any new or ancient antique house. Such idjuts are wired with square tools and plumb bobs in their heads. Or they carry them to prove points.


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

im not asking anybody for there critisizm im just trying to get help so please cut me your poetry. and this house used to be a barn back in the early 1900's then they added a back porch which became a joke for a kitchen and someone down the line added a enclosed front porch in 1972 i know this because when i gutted the house i found a time capsule in that section saying when the addition was done. anyway i did submit building plans that i drew out myself and they were approved so i dont see where im necessarily going wrong with this.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

garrettstump said:


> so i dont see where im necessarily going wrong with this.


You aren't..
There's always armchair quarterbacks.
You're doing fine.

Let's get started.
You showed us your stairwell framing. 
I'm concerned with the proposed wall thickness creeping into your stairwell.
Make sure you have room for 2" masonry clearance + framing thickness + drywall + baseboard trim BEFORE you lay your subfloor. 
Then make sure your stairwell is wide enough to meet code.
Much easier to reframe now than later.

You need to know what your FINISHED stairwell width has to be.
Your well opening should be 2-1/2" wider than your finished stairwell needs to be.

Let us know........


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

here is a link to some more pictures.....http://s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/garrettstump/ the house started out as and what it is kinda now. im in kingsville ohio which is a township if any of that makes a difference... this is the link to my county code...http://publicecodes.citation.com/st/oh/st/b2v07/index.htm?bu=OH-P-2005-000004


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Take a look at THIS. It will give you a pretty good “basic overview” of what your framing should look like.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

garrettstump said:


> here is a link to some more pictures.....http://s1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/garrettstump/ the house started out as and what it is kinda now. im in kingsville ohio which is a township if any of that makes a difference... this is the link to my county code...http://publicecodes.citation.com/st/oh/st/b2v07/index.htm?bu=OH-P-2005-000004


*1009.1 Stairway width. 

The width of stairways shall be determined as specified in Section 1005.1, but such width shall not be less than 44 inches (1118 mm). See Section 1007.3 for accessible means of egress stairways.*

*Exceptions: 

1. Stairways serving an occupant load of less than 50 shall have a width of not less than 36 inches (914 mm).
*
so I read that to say you need a 36" finished stairwell.
Do you have that?....38-1/2" rough opening?


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## Gary Garrison (Dec 2, 2011)

Run the plywood floor first before framing walls. I would keep all wood at least 2" off of chimney.


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

yes and plus some i cant remember off the top of my head but i think 48inches


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Congrats garrettstump, for taking the bull by the horns, great DIY project and if I read everything correctly your first, thats quite the first project and its looking pretty good.

Finish the sub-flooring and then build the walls around the masonary and like some have said leave the necessary clearances.

Again nice job!

Mark


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

hey thanks and yes this is the first time ive ever done anything like this, i have 0 experience in house construction. im trying to do everything by code and everything since i did take the plunge and get permits....lol


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

Hi Garrett
Good job
Please don't overlook my post about the stairwell opening and chimney clearance.
It WILL come back to bite you.
Trust me.....I've been chewed.........


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

And……………inadequate ledger fastening, mid span joist splices, no T&G and a few other things. 

It’s a little early for the high fives here. 

I think it’s time to stand back, regroup and develop a real plan before moving forward.


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

oh not by any means i will take that and run with it i surely dont want to get everything done then have to redo everything that would not be very good especially when i am by no means loaded with money. shoot im unemployed


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

kwick it is all tongue and groove and ive had an inspector do a surprise inspection and was told im in the clear. not asking for high fives!


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

garrettstump said:


> oh not by any means i will take that and run with it i surely dont want to get everything done then have to redo everything that would not be very good especially when i am by no means loaded with money. shoot im unemployed


Keep us picposted...you're doing great.....


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

Sure will


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

Recent pics


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

OMG...you can't have the Tyvek upside down...

Looking good, thanks for posting back.

Looks like you're ready for a dump run. :yes:


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

No problem I will get more recent ones tomorrow


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

One solution to solve your problem is to get rid of the mason chimney structure altogether... There are other means to replace the outdated mason chimney available to-date... 

Another suggestion and item worth looking into is to properly support the floor onto the ground below. It looks like there is crawspace there and it is just dirt below. I mean, you don't want to floor to bow in the middle of the house later...

Thirdly, it would be wise to keep all structures around the chimney fire proof and to code. So, please be aware of that as well.

Fourthly, to save some money, you could use stud grade 2x4's rather than #2 grade.... 

Lastly, get rid of that trash... LOL...


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

This is an old post all them issues have been resolved


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Damn! I wish I had known that!

The posts just look so fresh still! LOL...


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

Yea it's been about 10 months


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Can we get some photos? I wonder... Hmm....


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

sorry guys i was not able to get to it today also getting ready for bow season so i was really busy today...apologies..


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

Progress!


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## garrettstump (Aug 31, 2011)

I'm going to do some like before and after pictures like an old picture and then a new picture just to show the differences but for now I got some new pics up


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