# Need opinion on riding lawn mower



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I'm picturing the stalling because of the wheel on the upper side of the slope spinning because of lack of traction? If true, i doubt any of those mowers listed will solve that problem.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What do you mean by stalling? 
Is the motor cutting out, or is it not turning the wheels?
If it's not turning the wheels like the clutch on a car slipping, when's the last time the hydrolic belts been changed?


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

Also, depending on where the gas line exits the tank and how it connects, maybe on an incline water sitting at the bottom moved to the side and pooled up enough to get over the lip of the seal inside the tank.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Perhaps I did not provide enough details. 

The slopes I am referring to, the mower use to climb with no issue. Now it just stops on the steeper ones, no wheel spin, it just stops. On the shallower slopes there is also no wheel spin but the mower slows dramatically and struggles to climb. There is no RPM drop off or stalling on the engine. The mower acts similar to a car with a worn out clutch.

All the belts were replaced three years ago.


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

Drachenfire said:


> There is no RPM drop off or stalling on the engine.


Hmmm, so it won't even make it up with the blades disengaged?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

With no wheel spin i'll stick my neck out and guess this lawn tractor has a variable speed mechanism. On the dash or similar location it has speeds 1-7 to be selected with a small stick lever. On the left fender it has a gear selector that has Forward and Reverse. If this is all true and i win this bet the variable speed sheave system needs attention.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

3onthetree said:


> Hmmm, so it won't even make it up with the blades disengaged?


Nope



SeniorSitizen said:


> With no wheel spin i'll stick my neck out and guess this lawn tractor has a variable speed mechanism. On the dash or similar location it has speeds 1-7 to be selected with a small stick lever. On the left fender it has a gear selector that has Forward and Reverse. If this is all true and i win this bet the variable speed sheave system needs attention.


Forward/reverse is on the floor just forward of the seat.

It has a 7 speed shifter is on the right and I normally ran it on 3 or 4 depending on what I was mowing.

Now even with a running takeoff on 7 it is bogging down.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

How it's supposed to function.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

This fellow has never read the operator's manual. Notice he depresses the clutch each time he changes speeds on the selector. That's completely un- necessary with this system that was designed to change speeds without using the clutch. The only time it's necessary to depress the clutch is to stop and or to stop and shift from F to R and vise versa or go to park and I'm not certain about Park, it's been a few years. 


The central portion of this sheave must slide freely up and down the full designed distance to operate speeds 1-7.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Drachenfire: I don't own any of the machines listed, but have owned a John Deere 170 (14hp Kawasaki) since 1988 so am a big fan of green and yellow. We used the heck out of it when we had a farm and it's starting to show its age and I've been looking around a bit. In all those years I've only replaced the electric PTO clutch (not counting consumables). From what I've read, the E110 might be a little light if you have a lot of grades and are 'of a larger frame'. The E130 comes with their Easy Change oil filter/container but I don't know the cost/benefit of the 30-second oil change.
Around here JD seems the most popular; a few Cub Cadets whose owners seem happy with. No Huskies that I have seen.


Good luck!


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Just my opinion.

Any 42" zero turn mower is better then any 42" rider.

Lower to ground and able to take slopes better.
Better turning radius
Easier to operate. 
Drastically cuts the mowing time. 
etc., etc..


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

If you consider a ZTR be aware you do not go up and down hills. You transverse them sideways. The motor sits too far back on the frame and the unit will tilt backwards. Just for information.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

ron45 said:


> Just my opinion.
> 
> Any 42" zero turn mower is better then any 42" rider.


While a ZT would be nice to have, they are definitely way out of my price range.


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## 660catman (Aug 25, 2019)

I’d go with the JD E110. You did good getting 25 years out of an MTD. That said I still have my poor man’s Deere, a Sabre 17/42 hydro and bagger. Belts, blades and head gasket is all I have done in 20 years on my 2.2 acres. 
It’s going to be hard riding a new one with all the quirks of a different brand. I hate my MIL’s Cub Cadet when I cut her yard once in a while. 


Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Drachenfire said:


> While a ZT would be nice to have, they are definitely way out of my price range.


If buying new probably true but don't rule out used . Do you have any REAL mower shops/small engine repair shops near you ? Go check them out they may have a trade in that has service history . Most decent yard/garden tractors and zero turns have hour meters . If they haven't been tampered with AND there is service history I would have no problem buying a machine with 500 hours on it as an example .


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

$ 1,329.30
https://www.mentarilawnandgarden.co...MItdmm27PU6AIVQ18NCh0sjwoxEAYYASABEgKTB_D_BwE











$ 1,709.99
https://www.mentarilawnandgarden.co...MItdmm27PU6AIVQ18NCh0sjwoxEAYYCCABEgLS5PD_BwE


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

My wife surprised me with a Husqvarna	- YTH ??? 48" deck and it has been a PITA. 2 batteries, all 4 tires had to have tubes installed, ignition relay, and backfires when shut off. And difficult to start. I hate the dealer after the 4 tubes which I had to pay for, should have been warranty, so I'm not taking it back to them for the backfire issue. Can't complain too loud as the wife picked it out but would never buy that brand again.

And removing the deck is a jigsaw puzzle.

Bud


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Bud, on the backfire you might want to try shutting it off with about 1/3-1/2 throttle. Completely different engine I'm sure than the 20 HP Kohler Command in my 25 year old Toro, but mine backfired like that for years, and the dealer told me several times when I asked that it was "normal". Then I read an article someplace on it, tried shutting it off at 1/3 throttle, even though it went against everything I had ever heard, and it works. If I recall correctly, the increased speed causes the engine to continue spinning just enough longer to push the gas past the muffler. Again, it goes against the grain, for me anyway, but I suppose it's not hurting anything, and seems like it could prevent a blown muffler.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

ron45 said:


>


I appreciate the recommendations. The Cub Cadet is defintely out of my price range when shipping is factored in. The Toro will need to be researched. 



Bud9051 said:


> My wife surprised me with a Husqvarna	- YTH ??? 48" deck and it has been a PITA.


That is really to bad. 

I am fortunate in that my wife knows that when it comes to tools, electronics and large ticket items, I am very discriminating and will conduct in-depth research prior to making the purchase.

It is a bit frustrating for her because she would like to buy me things she knows I use, but she understands the reasoning.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I had good luck with the Husky. My neighbor had the homeowner grade Toro and that thing rattled itself apart. You might want to look around on craigslist or some of the other online classifieds.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Porsche986S said:


> If buying new probably true but don't rule out used . Do you have any REAL mower shops/small engine repair shops near you ? Go check them out they may have a trade in that has service history . Most decent yard/garden tractors and zero turns have hour meters . If they haven't been tampered with AND there is service history I would have no problem buying a machine with 500 hours on it as an example .


There are a couple of shops I could check out. Used is a consideration, providing the shop is offering a warranty.



Windows on Wash said:


> You might want to look around on craigslist or some of the other online classifieds.


I am leery buying such items through classifies as it may be just buying someone else's problems. To many scammers out there these days.

It is a different consideration if I know the seller. I spoke with my FiL last night. He was the one that gave me this mower 8-9 years ago. (I do not think he will part with his commercial-grade step through ZT. :biggrin2: )

At one time he was a small engine mechanic and ran his own repair service. We had a long discussion on everything that was happening and the service history since I have had it and he concurred with the diagnosis that the transmission was shot. He did express surprise that I got the mower to last as long as it did.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

There is only 3 positions in that geared transmission and geared transmissions don't normally struggle to ascend hills without one hell of a noise. The odds of both forward and reverse gears failing simultaneously is slim. Try backing up a hill. Also do 1 more test before giving up. When the tractor is struggling kill the ignition without touching anything, clutch, speed shift lever, touch NOTHING else but the switch. Now check the tension of the 2 belts that drive the tractor and i'm betting one will be loose as a goose comparing the 2.



The last one of those Vari-Drives I repaired about 20 years ago cost 80 bucks with Jack's having all the parts but that cost has probably changed. Be forewarned, that job is labor intensive and will test the best of patience and 1 possibly 2 large springs will test your physical condition.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

Since you are mowing steep grades, ask you FIL about mowers that have the oil splash system vs the oil injection system. I would stay away from the splash system on grades.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> There is only 3 positions in that geared transmission and geared transmissions don't normally struggle to ascend hills without one hell of a noise. The odds of both forward and reverse gears failing simultaneously is slim. Try backing up a hill. Also do 1 more test before giving up. When the tractor is struggling kill the ignition without touching anything, clutch, speed shift lever, touch NOTHING else but the switch. Now check the tension of the 2 belts that drive the tractor and i'm betting one will be loose as a goose comparing the 2.


Reverse is still functioning as I normally back it up the ramp into the storage shed (which is about 10 degree incline), but I can tell it is not as strong as used to be. I tried your suggestion and the belts remain taut.



ZTMAN said:


> Since you are mowing steep grades, ask you FIL about mowers that have the oil splash system vs the oil injection system. I would stay away from the splash system on grades.


I only have a couple of steep areas but I thank you for the tip.


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## edfiero1 (Mar 6, 2017)

I'd suggest going for a used John Deere x300. The X series mowers will last longer than anything you get from a big box store.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

We have the Husqvarna 42" up at the farm. Works fine... but will it last a long time? Too early to tell. Faster and more maneuverable than the old Craftsman it replaced, but not as much as a zero turn.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

edfiero1 said:


> I'd suggest going for a used John Deere x300. The X series mowers will last longer than anything you get from a big box store.


I saw a number of those when I was checking out used mowers at the various dealers. They were way out of my budget.


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## PPBART (Nov 11, 2011)

ron45 said:


> ...Any 42" zero turn mower is better then any 42" rider.
> 
> Lower to ground and able to take slopes better.
> Better turning radius
> ...


I've got a Toro ZTR -- really disappointed in one aspect: if the grass is at all damp (like heavy dew) the mower will get "stuck' (tires spin). I could change the ties to a coarser tread, but don't need to as I have a Craftsman lawn tractor that almost never gets stuck.

Speed of mowing isn't a real factor for me. I'm r3etired with plenty of free time, so what difference does it really make if it takes me 2 hours to mow my 2-acre yard, or 1.5 hours?

IMO, ZTR isn't worth the price premium and I won't buy another one. Actually, I'm shopping right now for a new Craftsman tractor.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Well folks, I appreciate everyone's input in this matter. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new mower.

After a lot of reading, comparing, evaluating needs, and test driving my neighbor's John Deere, I opted for the John Deere E120 42-inch mower. 










This appears to be a very popular mower, two HDs near me were completely sold out of them.

This mower has a 20hp v-twin engine, two-pedal foot-controlled hydrostatic, auto choke, electronic ignition, full-pressure lubrication, 30-second oil change system and most importantly..., a beverage holder (just kidding).

I opted for the v-twin as I found it runs smoother than the single cylinder models. It is also powerful enough to handle my husky frame while pulling accessories like my de-thatcher.

I was a bit concerned when I got it home. I went to put gas in the mower to drive it off the truck. When I unscrewed the cap, the whole tank was moving around. I thought that perhaps it did not get secured in assembly. A check on line found that this is normal. As fuel is added it tilts the tank on a spring-loaded pivot which moves the fuel level indicator.

After connecting the battery, I got on, turned the key and mower started immediately. The hydrostatic controls are going to take a little getting used.

I did not have a lot of time to run it through its paces yet. I will do so this weekend. The one thing I did note is that I will have to remember to swing up the chute when driving through the doors of the shed.

I will write a review after I have had time to test it out.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

Nice mower.
I would have bought a Cub Cadet.....but that's just me.
I sold one I had for 13 years...to get a Zero-turn.....another Cub Cadet.
Where I worked a few years ago, all of the mowers were John Deer.
They had commercial mowers, a few zero turns and never had an issue.
I am sure you will be happy.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

Congrats. That mower will serve you well


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Nice mower. Figure out how to drain the tank or run only ethanol free in it.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Congrats. I’m considering similar so will watch for your follow up opinion.


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## 660catman (Aug 25, 2019)

Good choice . And plus 1 on the ethanol free fuel. That’s all I’ve run in my 2000 Sabre 17/42 hydro and all my seasonal equipment. 
I’ve never understood the need for a cup holder on a lawn tractor that vibrates so much. Never use mine. 


Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

660catman said:


> Good choice .
> I’ve never understood the need for a cup holder on a lawn tractor that vibrates so much. Never use mine.
> Retired guy from Southern Manitoba, Canada.


Cup holders are fine for coffee mugs....that's it.
Anything carbonated will foam up and make it undrinkable.
But the cup holders are fine for phones, radios, even a set of keys.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Missouri Bound said:


> Nice mower.
> I would have bought a Cub Cadet.....but that's just me.


I did consider the Cub Cadet, but the comparable models were way out of my price range.



Windows on Wash said:


> Nice mower. Figure out how to drain the tank or run only ethanol free in it.


Way ahead of you :wink2:. Before I was even looking for the mower, I had recently located a gas station relatively nearby that has ethanol-free fuel. I picked up 5 gallons which should last me at least until mid-season depending on rainfall. It is a 64 mile round trip to the station but IMO worth it if it helps keep my lawn equipment functioning properly. 

I know 64 mi. sounds like a long distance to some, but to put things in perspective, I drive 60 miles round trip to work daily. Unfortunately it is in the opposite direction from the gas station. 



Missouri Bound said:


> Cup holders are fine for coffee mugs....that's it.
> Anything carbonated will foam up and make it undrinkable.
> But the cup holders are fine for phones, radios, even a set of keys.


Actually, I only drink water and Gatorade Zero when doing yard work especially when operating equipment. This is an important factor at the height of summer when temperatures and humidity are in the high 90s 
I take safe operation of my tools including lawn equipment very seriously, therefore I do not partake of alcoholic beverages until the work is done and tools are put away.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Drachenfire said:


> Well folks, I appreciate everyone's input in this matter. I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a new mower.
> 
> After a lot of reading, comparing, evaluating needs, and test driving my neighbor's John Deere, I opted for the John Deere E120 42-inch mower.
> 
> ...


**********************************************

I believe you'll like that mower's ergonomics. I traded a LA-135, that is real similar to yours, for a X350 and I preferred the operation of the LA 135.
Most lawn tractors seem to have a cracked seat problem, including John Deere. I did a seat test on my new 350 for the first season to determine seat longevity. The test: I never entered or exited the seat from the left side which is normal. Before the mowing season was over 2 cracks appeared to be starting on the left edge as seen through the duck tape in the pic. That's when the tape was applied so we'll see what that does in years to come.


The discharge deflector chute problem can easily be solved with a couple of bungee cord ends and a short section of cord which is easily adjusted for length / chute angle. Mine has to be up to clear a gate to the barn and I just leave it there. If you wanna know how to disable the mow in reverse safety without modifying the tractor mechanicals PM me. Takes about 2 seconds to change either way and you don't even need to get off of the tractor.


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## PPBART (Nov 11, 2011)

SeniorSitizen said:


> ... I believe you'll like that mower's ergonomics...


It's my understanding that JD are the only lawn tractors made in US. Also, the model you get at the big-box stores is the same as that which the JS dealer sells.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

PPBART said:


> It's my understanding that JD are the only lawn tractors made in US. Also, the model you get at the big-box stores is the same as that which the JS dealer sells.


That's what they would like us to think, and in Greensburg TN i believe, but i suspect nearly 100% of the parts are manufactured in foreign countries. That type of info. is sketchy of course with frequent announcements such as our headquarters and warehouses in the USA. IIR Briggs and Stratton moved manufacturing from WI to Mexico nearly 30 years ago, Kaw engines may come from Japan and the remainder of parts from mostly Asian origin to be assembled in TN.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

PPBART said:


> the model you get at the big-box stores is the same as that which the JS dealer sells.





Not true.




Most all of the basic JD's are the same, but when you move up the line to the heavier duty and commercial JD's it's a different thing.




That's not to say the box store ones or worse by any measure. I have a JD that came from HD some 5 or more years ago, and it still works great.


It gets cleaned after every mow, washed and waxed every few months, oil changes and tuning every spring.


Also run a commercial ZT JD. 72" deck. This IS a different animal, but it also cost 15,000 new. :vs_whistle:


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

ktkelly said:


> Not true.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I think that's what he was saying. There is a legend around that JDs sold at HD are somehow different than the ones sold at a JD dealer. HD only sells the E-series (up here anyway), which is their line aimed at most consumers, but an Exxx at HD is that same Exxx you can buy at their dealer.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

PPBART said:


> It's my understanding that JD are the only lawn tractors made in US. Also, the model you get at the big-box stores is the same as that which the JS dealer sells.


Mine has a decal stating it was assembled in Tennessee. 



SeniorSitizen said:


> That's what they would like us to think, and in Greensburg TN i believe, but i suspect nearly 100% of the parts are manufactured in foreign countries. That type of info. is sketchy of course with frequent announcements such as our headquarters and warehouses in the USA. IIR Briggs and Stratton moved manufacturing from WI to Mexico nearly 30 years ago, Kaw engines may come from Japan and the remainder of parts from mostly Asian origin to be assembled in TN.


The same can be said for almost any product in America with an engine even our "domestic vehicles". While many cars and truck are built in the U.S., many their components come from other countries. It is for this reason the FTC makes a distinct difference between "Made in the USA" and "Assembled in the USA".


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

I have completed my initial review of the lawn tractor which can be read here.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> **********************************************
> 
> I believe you'll like that mower's ergonomics. I traded a LA-135, that is real similar to yours, for a X350 and I preferred the operation of the LA 135.
> Most lawn tractors seem to have a cracked seat problem, including John Deere. I did a seat test on my new 350 for the first season to determine seat longevity. The test: I never entered or exited the seat from the left side which is normal. Before the mowing season was over 2 cracks appeared to be starting on the left edge as seen through the duck tape in the pic. That's when the tape was applied so we'll see what that does in years to come.
> ...


Vinyl seat cracking is usually attributed to the material drying out or being frequently abraded say by tools in one’s pocket or on their belt. 

I figure I can probably avoid the seat cracking by use of a quality vinyl protectant.., I am not talking about Armor-All (I hate that stuff).

Meguiar's makes an extensive line of interior and exterior car, marine and RV care products, which I use exclusively on my vehicles. Among them is their Marine/RV Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Protectant which I have used with success on the vinyl tonnau cover of my truck. I figure it would also work on the lawn tractor seat.

I picked up a short bungee to use for the chute when I bought the mulch cover.


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

I bought a 27 HP Cub Cadet about 15 years ago. It fell apart quickly over a couple of years. My son owns a lot of properties and bought a Ferris zero turn so I use it for my lawn and 17 others that I mow for him. The Ferris is great but it cost $12k. My point is that the Cub only lasted a couple of years using it only at home, now I use it without its deck to pull a cart at my farm.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Old Thomas said:


> I bought a 27 HP Cub Cadet about 15 years ago. It fell apart quickly over a couple of years. My son owns a lot of properties and bought a Ferris zero turn so I use it for my lawn and 17 others that I mow for him. The Ferris is great but it cost $12k. My point is that the Cub only lasted a couple of years using it only at home, now I use it without its deck to pull a cart at my farm.


I am not familiar with the quality history of Cub Cadet but it is still unfortunate that it fell apart that quickly. Was it stored outdoors?

My FiL, who used to have a small engine repair shop, said a large number of failed equipment that came in for repairs were kept outdoors uncovered. 

I have seen this for myself. One of my neighbors has a riding less than half the age of my old MTD and it looks like crap. He would leave parked in the backyard uncovered totally exposed to the elements. It has rust all over it now and I notice they no longer use it so I think it is fubar. 

My MTD was kept in a shed when not in use. Every season, I would change the oil and air filter, pull the plugs and clean or replace as necessary. The blades would get changed with newly sharpened ones. After every mow, I would blow off all the debris before putting it back in the shed. 

Between seasons, the battery was kept on a maintainer. At the end of the season, the mower would get washed down and under the deck cleaned. I do not think a lot of people realize how much moisture gets trapped in the accumulated grass clumps which is why mower decks not regularly cleaned have rust problems.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

I'm not sure I agree with Cub Cadets not lasting.
This is mine after 13 years, 625 hours cutting about 3 acres.

https://www.diychatroom.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=593249&stc=1&d=1586969605


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Older ones are better. Stuff built in the last 10 years is crap mostly. All bolted together and if you have any roughness of terrain, it will rattle itself apart.


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

Drachenfire said:


> I am not familiar with the quality history of Cub Cadet but it is still unfortunate that it fell apart that quickly. Was it stored outdoors?
> 
> My FiL, who used to have a small engine repair shop, said a large number of failed equipment that came in for repairs were kept outdoors uncovered.
> 
> ...


My equipment is kept in a heated and air conditioned building. I do regular maintenance more often than required. I clean the deck, sharpen blades, change oil/filter, grease, and so on. The Cub had brackets that broke and I had to weld them, the steering got sloppy, the electrical system had problems, the deck belt broke , one blade spindle bearing went, and one cylinder uses oil. To date it only has about 300 hours on it.
Previous to that I had a Cub from the mid 1960s. Someone owed me money and gave it to me. That thing was indestructible. My son was a teenager and he abused it and it never broke. After it had thousands of hours on it the engine got weak so we gave it away. No such good luck with the newer one.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Old Thomas said:


> My equipment is kept in a heated and air conditioned building. I do regular maintenance more often than required. I clean the deck, sharpen blades, change oil/filter, grease, and so on. The Cub had brackets that broke and I had to weld them, the steering got sloppy, the electrical system had problems, the deck belt broke , one blade spindle bearing went, and one cylinder uses oil. To date it only has about 300 hours on it.
> Previous to that I had a Cub from the mid 1960s. Someone owed me money and gave it to me. That thing was indestructible. My son was a teenager and he abused it and it never broke. After it had thousands of hours on it the engine got weak so we gave it away. No such good luck with the newer one.


It is really to bad it did not last any appreciable time.


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