# corner bead



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Metal, drywall nails.
Only reason it should fail is if someone whacks into it.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Metal, drywall nails.
> 
> 
> Only reason it should fail is if someone whacks into it.



ok.


or if it was installed incorrectly. my last place, i bought new. there was corned bead pops all over the place.


whats with the drywall nails ? ring shank or something ? i have some ring shank nails.


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## eandjsdad (Dec 22, 2013)

Fix'n it said:


> whats with the drywall nails ? ring shank or something ? i have some ring shank nails.


Drywall nails, not just ring shank. Phosphate coated ring shank, but the head and the point are different from a common nail.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I have to vote for the vinyl I quit using metal years ago. They have a spray adhesive at the box stores or drywall suppliers. spray the corner then the bead stick them together then staple to hold till the glue sets.
The reason to use nails on the metal bead instead of screws is the head of the screws stand proud and can draw the bead too tight and wrinkle the metal. The head of the nail sets flush against the bead.


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

I just did some with paper faced metal corner beads (outer corner, inner I use folded paper). As Toolseeker said, use a spray adhesive (Loctite?) and it isn't going anywhere.

B


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

When you go to get that corner bead look over all of them and see which ones feel the flimsiest and which one holds it's shape when you pick it up.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> 1. plastic or metal ?
> 
> 2. i don't want nail pops, so i like screws. but i seem to remember, perhaps incorrectly, not to use screws.
> 
> ...


you these and you won't have a problem with cracks or pops http://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/e...rock-brand-paper-faced-metal-corner-bead.html

And it is better then Vinyl. you don't use glue or staples. Just mud the corner place it on roll it a few times and in 24 hours you can't kick the bead off.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Admittedly those are great beads especially if you have a roller can be a pia with knives to get straight. I feel the best bead out there is the new no-coat ones but are hard to find and pretty pricy. Go to their website, you can hit them with a baseball bat and they won't dent or crack. Just my opinion but I think metal is the worst, then vinyl and paper faced, up to the best which is the no-coat.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

I agree metal is the worst when I went from metal to paper face my call backs dropped to almost nothing YAH!. I get a few call backs from time to time for a nail pop in the wall. But for the most part zero for nail pops on the beads and zero for cracks


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

thanx,guys. i already bought some metal bead and already had some drywall nails. so this is what will be installed later today.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Be sure to use the proper mud to set the bead----I pack it with 20 minute easy sand---multi purpose will also work,although it takes forever to dry ---do not bed the bead with light weight topping--it will crack.

I use 1/4" small crown staples to hold the bead in place---works well---


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> Be sure to use the proper mud to set the bead----I pack it with 20 minute easy sand---multi purpose will also work,although it takes forever to dry ---do not bed the bead with light weight topping--it will crack.


hmmm, i hadn't thought of that. guess i shoulda asked first. what does it do ? fill underneath to add support ?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The powdered easy sand is the hardest of the interior muds---thus it is ideal for the fill coat on your new bead-----and it sets chemically and allows you to add more than one coat in a mater of an hour----

Multi purpose--green lid is a setting compound---it contains glue and is the mud for setting your paper tape----it is also rather hard and hard to sand---so it is seldome used for topping,except for pros,who can apply the mud so it requires little sanding.

Light weight--blue lid---is a soft topping compound---smooth and easy to apply as a top coat----but not good for setting paper or filling ----use it only as the top coat--easy to sand.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

What is the reasoning behind nails vs. screws in the corner bead?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> thanx,guys. i already bought some metal bead and already had some drywall nails. so this is what will be installed later today.


so instead of following good advice from some very knowledgable people in the trade your going to use sub standard materials. I would just return them and get paper faced beads and do it right and rent a corner roller. Oh well I will be waiting for the post that says my corners have cracks what do I do?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Dave88LX said:


> What is the reasoning behind nails vs. screws in the corner bead?


any sheet rocker in their right mind does not use metal corner beads. the industry standard is paper face metal beads, or vinyl beads both offer superior performance over the metal bead that you have to nail in to the wall. which over time will cause cracks at the corners. a paper face or a vinyl bead floats on the dry wall. so when the framing contracts or expands it moves with the sheetrock not the framing.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

im sorry but paper faced metal beads are horrible. have you ever tried pulling one of your paper faced beads off??? they peel off just as easy painters tape. I do alot of restoration work and i do tons of repairs at 2' and the paper faced is the worst. there is no sistering another piece on. I have to pull the whole bead off which is quite simple then i have to fill the corner with 20 and put no coat on. The inside corners with the metal is horrible! try matching that up or fixing it after its been cut off or damaged. also if you pull off a bead thats been there a couple years its all rusted out on the back. 
The best corners out there is no coat but i dont recommend it to the average homeowner. you need a corner roller and atleast around here it only comes in a 100' roll which is quite pricey. For the average joe homeowner good old metal beads are the best. they can be easily adjusted. if its out of whack pull the nail/scew and move it over a bit. 
also the certainteed aqua are pretty nice to work with also but you are very limited to the time when setting the bead. same goes with the vinyl beads. and the spray glue sucks! if your not careful it goes everywhere but trimtex does have some pretty sweet specialty beads if you want a different look that nobody else has and i find no matter what kind of mud you have if the corner gets bumped chunks of mud falls off the bead.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I agree with Princelake---I've been using metal corner bead for years and never have had a cracking issue---

Main cause of cracks in the bead is caused by the incorrect mud---or improper attachment---nails or 1/4" small crown staples---

Perhaps it's a regional thing---metal bead is used by most pros in this area--


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

princelake said:


> im sorry but paper faced metal beads are horrible. have you ever tried pulling one of your paper faced beads off??? they peel off just as easy painters tape. I do alot of restoration work and i do tons of repairs at 2' and the paper faced is the worst. there is no sistering another piece on. I have to pull the whole bead off which is quite simple then i have to fill the corner with 20 and put no coat on. The inside corners with the metal is horrible! try matching that up or fixing it after its been cut off or damaged. also if you pull off a bead thats been there a couple years its all rusted out on the back.
> The best corners out there is no coat but i dont recommend it to the average homeowner. you need a corner roller and atleast around here it only comes in a 100' roll which is quite pricey. For the average joe homeowner good old metal beads are the best. they can be easily adjusted. if its out of whack pull the nail/scew and move it over a bit.
> also the certainteed aqua are pretty nice to work with also but you are very limited to the time when setting the bead. same goes with the vinyl beads. and the spray glue sucks! if your not careful it goes everywhere but trimtex does have some pretty sweet specialty beads if you want a different look that nobody else has and i find no matter what kind of mud you have if the corner gets bumped chunks of mud falls off the bead.


I have never ever had a call back with a paper face metal bead or a vinyl bead as well. and doing it right you can't kick the paper face metal out side corner beads off. and if you don't have a corner roller rent one if it is just for a small room. 35 for a whole day. i also use mud max in my mud when i do my corners. also inside corners just plain paper tape and mud.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I had a taper do a basement for me--he used the paper corners---that job worked well with no call backs---I'm not saying the paper corners are bad---I just tend to stay with what has always yielded good results for me--


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

what happens when the house settles? or the wood shrinks? you nail that in to the framing the corner bead moves with the wood not the sheetrock and you get cracks. it is just so much faster to run a bead through a mud hopper and roll the bead on then top it sand and done. no fuss no muss. no nail pops no cracks.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i went with the most economical and known method. KISS on this one.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh. would setting type be a good base ?


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

fix'n it you did the right thing. now do atleast the first coat over the metal bead with easy sand then do the additional coats with a finishing compound.
People have to remember this is a diy site. You can't expect a homeowner to run out and rent a corner roller at $35 a day( there isnt even a place to rent one here) and buy a bottle of mud max for what $10-15 a bottle for say 1-2 corners. also the average person on here isn't building a whole new house so structural movement is minimal. and repairing a metal bead is pretty user friendly and there is lots of info on this site if one gets damaged. i personally do not like paper faced beads and will not use them after i've seen so many houses with them and the issues i've seen with them.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You will be fine----The metal beads are good as long as you follow the instructions you have received----


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Guys there is a reason they make all those different corner beads is they all work just figure out what works for you. Each one has advantages and disadvantages, I have tried all of them, some I like some I don't, some I dislike to the point I won't use them.
Since you have decided which bead you are going to use lets address some of the other advice you have gotten. A roller would do you no good to get metal bead straight use a 4' level. Use nails instead of screws Yes. I didn't see where anyone recommend Mud Max but if you can get it I would say go ahead it will make your mud dry harder, then you wouldn't need the hot mud. Use it in every coat but your last as this makes your mud much stronger, but if you use it in the topcoat it will make it hard to sand.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

bead is all on and i used the hot mud for the first coat. the green lid 2nd coat is drying now. a few more coats and a touch up sand then prime/paint.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

Do any of you use paper tape in conjunction with metal bead, overlapping the bead and wall? I've been told that can reduce the chances of cracks forming along the vertical edge of the bead wall-side edge.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Have heard of it never done it. Really shouldn't have to.


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