# Howto trim below entry door threshold?



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Ideally, you threshold terminates over top of the trim as do your jambs sit flush with the sheathed wall.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> Ideally, you threshold terminates over top of the trim as do your jambs sit flush with the sheathed wall.


So if my trim is 3/4" thick (LP Smartside), then in theory, the end of my threshold should extend 3/4" from the flush side of my sheathing? What if the pre-hung door threshold only extends out 1/2" or something less than 3/4"?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

As long as it terminates on the trim, you are fine. Ideal would be for it to hang out 1" to honest and have a bit of a capillary break.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> As long as it terminates on the trim, you are fine. Ideal would be for it to hang out 1" to honest and have a bit of a capillary break.


Does the end of the threshold that hangs off the trim kinda serve as a overhang - like flashing? To protect the trim from water?


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> As long as it terminates on the trim, you are fine. Ideal would be for it to hang out 1" to honest and have a bit of a capillary break.


When you say terminates on the trim, you mean the threshold covers the trim and stops at the edge of the trim? Not 'terminates' before the trim...


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

That's a bad situation you have going on there. That threshold needs to come out over the top of the sheathing and trim you may put on in order to keep the water out. 

That threshold you have won't work there and should be changed. You should also install a door pan flashing (google it) while you're at it.

There's no way fix that correctly without pulling door (with frame) out.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

kwikfishron said:


> That's a bad situation you have going on there. That threshold needs to come out over the top of the sheathing and trim you may put on in order to keep the water out.
> 
> That threshold you have won't work there and should be changed. You should also install a door pan flashing (google it) while you're at it.
> 
> There's no way fix that correctly without pulling door (with frame) out.


Yes. The door is being trashed. 

My question is, do I need to purchase a new door with an extended threshold? 

I'm confused on trimming out the bottom of the threshold. Many on here say you're not supposed to put trim below the threshold - Fear it will leak? 

My plan was to put up 3/4" trim around the entire door, including the bottom. My new door threshold would sit on top of the trim. Maybe extend beyond the trim a 1/4" at most?

Then others say if I do that, the trim will bend at that point. So if my threshold DOESN'T extend beyond the lip of the trim, do I put a 90 degree flashing or somethign there to protect it?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

There’s no “extended threshold” you just need the correct jamb width, which is 4-9/16” for a 2x4 wall and 6-9/16” for a 2x6 wall. It looks like you have a door meant for a 2x4 wall installed in a 2x6 wall.

Whether the threshold exceeds the toe kick trim or not will depend on the thickness of the trim you use. Ideally the threshold would exceed the trim by a ¼” or so but it’s not mandatory.

The more important step and the one that usually gets skipped is the Door Pan Flashing (did ya google it). That your first line of defense for keeping the water away from where you don’t want it to go.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

kwikfishron said:


> There’s no “extended threshold” you just need the correct jamb width, which is 4-9/16” for a 2x4 wall and 6-9/16” for a 2x6 wall. It looks like you have a door meant for a 2x4 wall installed in a 2x6 wall.
> 
> Whether the threshold exceeds the toe kick trim or not will depend on the thickness of the trim you use. Ideally the threshold would exceed the trim by a ¼” or so but it’s not mandatory.
> 
> The more important step and the one that usually gets skipped is the Door Pan Flashing (did ya google it). That your first line of defense for keeping the water away from where you don’t want it to go.


I can't believe others haven't ran into this problem I'm dealing with. 

I get there are two common jamb widths. 4-9/16" for a 2x4 wall and 6-9/16" for a 2x6 wall. However, some door manufactures have 'extended thresholds' for custom fittings. 

My walls are 2x6. 

When I measure the depth of the wall to include the drywall and the sheathing - it measures 6-9/16" - perfect. 

However, when using lap siding, because the siding laps over each other, it requires a certain thickness of window/door trim. In my case here, when the LP Smartside siding is installed, I need a pretty thick piece of trim .910" to be exact. That's the thickness of LP MSartside 540 series trim. 

For simplicity, let's call it 1".

If I surround my entire entry door opening with this trim, my new jamb thickness is 6-9/16" + 1" = 7-9/16"

If I purchase a door with a 6-9/16 jamb (not an extended threshold), what do I do with that remaining 1" exposed trim a the bottom of my threshold? I still need to cover it with something to ensure it's not torn off when people walk on it and to ensure no water gets behind it. This was the reasoning for inquiring how to trim below the threshold. 

Do I truly need to put trim under the threshold like the sides of the casing? No. but if I don't, what do I use? A ripped piece of lap siding? The siding is only about 3/8" inches thick. 

Regardless of using trim or a piece of lap siding under the threshold, I still need something in place between where the threshold ends (6-9/16") and the attached piece of trim.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

I finally looked up a sill pan online. My plan was to use reglaur rubberized flashing.

I found this video from Sure Sill about their installation. I noticed their new build rough opening looked different than mine. They have no sheathing on the bottom sill. My does. Should I have not sheathed this part? Is this causing some confusion here?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

You can use whatever you want under there as long as it won't melt in the weather, you're WAY overthinking this. 

The standard threshold for a 6-9/16" jamb door is 7-13/16".


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

This image describes what I'm trying to achieve.

If you notice, the end of the threshold is sitting on the "kickboard." I've never heard that term before, but essentially, my "kick board" would be my 1" piece of trim. This picture seems to show a perfect example of how a kickboard fits perfectly into the groves of that threshold. 

Unsure if my new pre-hung door will have something similar with the threshold (grooves for kickboard), but I know the threshold won't extend as far as I need.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

kwikfishron said:


> The standard threshold for a 6-9/16" jamb door is 7-13/16".


Are you SERIOUS???????

This is where all my confusion is coming from!! The door guy from the company I'm dealy with locally it telling me the threshold is only 6-9/16" deep. Same as the jambs. 

You're suggesting the threshold is deeper than the 6-9/16" jamb??? 

If this is the case, then that solves everything!!!!!!


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Daugela said:


> but I know the threshold won't extend as far as I need.


You are wrong.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

kwikfishron said:


> You are wrong.


Apparently I was wrong based on what the 'expert' guy told me....


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

> This is where all my confusion is coming from!! The door guy from the company I'm dealy with locally it telling me the threshold is only 6-9/16" deep. Same as the jambs.


Since the guy that you are buying the door from says that I would believe him.

You can purchase a door sill extension as shown below. In the schematic you posted, an extension is shown covering the kick board. Sill extensions can sometimes be hard to find. Try purchasing from same guy you purchase door from to get same brand.



> http://www.tmhardware.com/Threshold-Width-Extender-Aluminum-2-W-for-Pemko-Thresholds.html


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