# inexpensive driveway solutions



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

The price limit you suggested will limit options, because you will be limited to the local materials (freight is very costly and often more than the rock).

Anything round will move around and be unstable.

what is available in your area, since it varies across the map.

Dick


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## creeper (Mar 11, 2011)

I had a load of crusher run spread this fall and so far I'm really liking it. It kind of locks together and goes hard like cement. In fact, I think thats what you are supposed to use as a base under cement or asphalt.

The problem with rounded stone is they will never "lock" together so clearing the the driveway of ice and snow will be a huge pita. Riding a bike, road hockey and basketball are all out also.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I use limestome, but, as CM mentioned, the availablity of various material is going to vary by area. Regardless, I definitely agree with something that is rough and irregular. Round, similar size stones may work for landscaping features, but it is not good for vehicle traffic. Depending on your soil, and the amount of preparation that went into your driveway, which often is not adequate, it is not uncommon to have to add some every so many years, but, other than that it holds up pretty well. Typically, I gouge mine with a backhoe every sping and fall, then regrade it, to address low spots and bring the stone back to the top, which keeps it looking nice. We live about 2 miles or so off of the pavement though, which means we drag in a lot of mud, cow manure, and whatever else is out there, but, if you're on a paved road, the maintenance may be less. I also usually end up spraying some Roundup about once a year, but that's only because we have a sizable area in front of the shop, some of which doesn't get a lot of vehicle traffic, so, there again, your situation may be different.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No one here can possiblly know what your local conditions are, In my area you have to put down driveway cloth then the gravel or crush and run. If not it just sinks in. It also helps to keep the grass from growing. Round up is a waist of money, use total vegatation killer it should last almost a year.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Let's start with this:

Where are you?


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

I have been meaning to ask the schuckers at the local seafood restaurant what they do with their oyster shells. Over the course of a year, they probably end up with a pretty good jag of oyster shells. I wonder if I dropped them a special dumpster if they would separate them out for me.

I'm gonna get right on this.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Round up is a waist of money, use total vegatation killer it should last almost a year.


Thank you, Joe; I appreciate the insight. For 20 some years now I have been grading the driveway in April or May, depending on how much snow melt we have, waiting a few weeks, spraying the areas where we don't drive much, then grading it again in late September or early October, and have always thought it looked great. I'll have to remember to get a new pair of glasses and use the expensive stuff next year.


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## dougp23 (Sep 20, 2011)

To the OP:

At our last house we had crushed stone, which like someone else pointed out, goes everywhere in the winter when plowing. And one year, a few times, we would actually say "I'm gonna have to mow the driveway" because the weeds and stuff would be growing up.

I have heard some neighbors say they have good luck with stone dust. 

Don't rule out paving. At our last house, it was going to cost something like $2,000 to bring in enough crushed rock, and it was going to cost $2,400 to have it paved. We went with the paving, and it held up great for at least ten years.


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

I've been hankering to get myself some of that used carpet in 12' widths and use that as an underlay.


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## kate0558 (Dec 22, 2011)

Thanks... we are in the Raleigh, NC Area. 

We moved here about a year and a half ago from NJ so I don't know whats available or even works good in the area.

We are estimating that the driveway is about 50 feet long.

I'd prefer to pave it. But he says its gonna cost like 5k or something like that to pave this long of driveway. Growing up my parents always had rock driveways and granted they never had the money to have dump truck loads of rocks brought in. So instead they'd pick up a few bags to fill in all the potholes that had accumulated. It was constant. It may have just been because they needed a thicker layer of rocks but I always hated their driveway. 

But I also don't have 5k to throw down to get the driveway paved.


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## teststrips (Sep 21, 2011)

Tar and chip might be another option for you, which should be around 1/2 the cost of a full pave job. The process basically involves putting down a thin layer of tar (more of a mist than a layer), then spreading small irregular stones over it, then another layer of tar, topped off with another layer of stones. a 3rd (and possibly 4th) layer is usually a good idea, but if you currently have weeds growing in your driveway have the additional layer(s) done a few months later... wait to see if any weeds come up through and take care of them with a very strong weed killer. Put the final layer on only after all the weeds are dead. 

This is the only process I could recommend using decorative stones with... you can use them as the final layer's top coat - and the tar will help hold them in place. I'd still keep the stones as a darker color, as some stones will undoubtedly flip over and show tar stains. 3 layers will probably be about an inch to an inch and a half thick, so you MAY have to fill in the sides next to your driveway with some topsoil - otherwise you might have problems with mowing grass.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Tar and chip might be another option for you, which should be around 1/2 the cost of a full pave job. The process basically involves putting down a thin layer of tar (more of a mist than a layer), then spreading small irregular stones over it, then another layer of tar, topped off with another layer of stones. a 3rd (and possibly 4th) layer is usually a good idea, but if you currently have weeds growing in your driveway have the additional layer(s) done a few months later... wait to see if any weeds come up through and take care of them with a very strong weed killer. Put the final layer on only after all the weeds are dead.
> 
> This is the only process I could recommend using decorative stones with... you can use them as the final layer's top coat - and the tar will help hold them in place. I'd still keep the stones as a darker color, as some stones will undoubtedly flip over and show tar stains. 3 layers will probably be about an inch to an inch and a half thick, so you MAY have to fill in the sides next to your driveway with some topsoil - otherwise you might have problems with mowing grass.


And then you could buy the petroleum-based solvent you will require in fifty-five gallon drums to save some money. This way you will have plenty of solvent on hand at all times to clean your house and auto carpets and to keep your shoes tar-free. Be careful soaking the dogs feet in the solvent though because it will be an irritant to the animals skin over a short time.


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## creeper (Mar 11, 2011)

So Kate, Are you properly confused yet?

Look in the phone book for aggregates or sand and gravel companies. Ask how much per yard for the type the company recommends. They will help you determine howm many yards you need. Length x width x depth. 
Somebody said stone dust. Stone dust is what helps crusher run bind together and lock like cement. Don't get rounded stones or irregular pieces that are too big. You will be sorry. The only problem with crusher run is that until the stone dust settles you May track a small amount. After mine was spread ( I didn't have access to a compactor) I simply ran my vechicle up and down the driveway to compress and tighten. 

The whole process cost me $300 ish , delivery included. Driveway= 18x 100


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

There is plenty of crushed stone available in that part of the country. 

Contact:
*Martin - Marietta*
*2710 Wycliff Road*
*Raleigh, NC*
*(919) 787-9504*

They can advise you on the proper procedures for installing a driveway 
and probably give you a local estimate of the cost.


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

I would second using MM....I live in Iowa and they are the cheapest place to buy from. If you go through a landscaping place, expect to pay double. We used reclaimed asphalt for our driveway (it's darker), but that's what our adjacent alley is made from. It also gives us the option to blacktop our driveway once everything has been compacted down....

you could also consider putting crushed rock down as a base, compacting your self and learning how to build forms for the concrete...and then have someone come and rebar and pour for you....it would cut some of that 5k away.


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## TammyF (Jan 13, 2012)

My husband and I own a paving business..... we do asphalt and have done chip and seal..... I would not recommend chip and seal in your parking area!!!! You will not be happy if it gets hot out, and you sink a high heel in it!!!! That application requires traffic to smooth out..... If you plan to do asphalt at some point... don't use round smooth gravel, go with the limestone flex base, you will need 4 inches compacted depth of the ugly stuff! Hope that helps!!!!


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

TammyF said:


> My husband and I own a paving business..... we do asphalt and have done chip and seal..... I would not recommend chip and seal in your parking area!!!! You will not be happy if it gets hot out, and you sink a high heel in it!!!! That application requires traffic to smooth out..... If you plan to do asphalt at some point... don't use round smooth gravel, go with the limestone flex base, you will need 4 inches compacted depth of the ugly stuff! Hope that helps!!!!


Not sure if you though that I used chip and seal, but wanted to clarify...the reclaimed asphalt was not chip and seal.....and I would agree that it would be far to soft of surface without traffic.


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## tractorfarmer (Jan 4, 2012)

I am seeing problems with the definition of long here. There is long, and there is loooooooooooooooong. 50 feet is not very long. I think the recomendations for using tar and crushed stone is great for very long driveways, but like Tammy said, for a small residential parking area, the cheaper solutions are not the best. 

It sounds like you want cobblestone, but want to pay for crushed stone. 5K doesn't sound bad, but I would hate to get a cheap job and have to fix it after a few years. I think any kind of pavers or cobblestone would be a headache. They look great when installed, but not so nice after they settle.


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## RampRat (Apr 7, 2013)

*My 2 cents worth*

I grew up in a house with a peas stone drive way...if your in an area where you get snow, you can plan on raking the stones or whatever lose materials you use out of the lawn, then whatever you do when you mow the lawn, make sure the discharge chute isnt aimed at your windows or cars. Been there, done that, cheap but has consequences,...I'm looking for some kind of cheap brick or paver solution. I'm in Florida now so shoveling, snow blowing or plowing isn't an issue to get it all over the lawn


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

Ever see Cool Hand Luke?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOWkPk2ETXc


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## robsatx (Apr 2, 2013)

*Driveway*

I just widened my driveway and had pavers used as edging. They curved all the ends. I will have to post some pics . . .


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