# Framing basement metal post



## kupalino (Oct 13, 2009)

There is a 4-inch diameter metal post in my basement to support the joists and I'd like to know how to finish it. Do I use OSB/plywood and 2x2s and box it up just like I would with the heater duct? Kind a like soffit but vertical?

Thanks.


----------



## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Yes you can box it up by creating a "vertical soffit".

In one of my projects I was putting up walls in the basement and chose to position the walls so as to enclose some of the posts. This worked fine although in a few instances I needed to fasten thick cardboard to edge of the nearest stud so the drywall make a firm contact instead of bending and cracking at a gap between it and that nearest stud when it bridged the post and the next stud.


----------



## rustyedge (Aug 30, 2009)

You can buy pre-finished post covers at most home improvement stores. Many styles are availabe. I used two piece knotty pine log looking post covers to match the log cabin look of my basement. These two piece covers were glued together around the post to form a one piece log. 
woodworkersshoppe.com is where i got mine.


----------



## carpenter377 (Dec 26, 2009)

Dependiing on the look and how big you want the post cover up to be. you can use premaid columns or frame and drywall. Another method I hae seen is a 1 inch rope wrapped tightly around the post. It all depends on the lokk you want. Good luck on your project.


----------



## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

I made a tambour-type pole wrap by contact cement gluing 1/2-round molding onto some canvas-like fabric and then gluing that to the pole with silicone. Once on the pole, I ran some Alex caulk between each piece of wood and then painted it. A bit of work but it came out pretty nice. Instead of a box in the room, it is a bit more interesting to the eye.


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Kupa,
you can use finish lumber also. Here's a pic of an oak one I made. All 3/4 stock, mitered corners, biscuited together, radiused edges.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## carpenter377 (Dec 26, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> Kupa,
> you can use finish lumber also. Here's a pic of an oak one I made. All 3/4 stock, mitered corners, biscuited together, radiused edges.
> Mike Hawkins


 I love the wood look. Im getting ready to start to frame my basement after the new year. I think I will use the wood box look. Thanks for the pics. I will take pics. start to finish and post them.:thumbup:


----------



## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> Kupa,
> you can use finish lumber also. Here's a pic of an oak one I made. All 3/4 stock, mitered corners, biscuited together, radiused edges.
> Mike Hawkins


Looking Good Firehawk you do nice work.:thumbsup:


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

SULTINI said:


> Looking Good Firehawk you do nice work.:thumbsup:


Thanks,
I appreciate that. It all started years ago when I worked for my brother in law when I was a kid. Everything had to be just right. So now, whenever I do anything around the house, he inspects it with a fine tooth comb when he comes over. So I usually try to overdo a few things now and then to keep him guessing. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## kupalino (Oct 13, 2009)

firehawkmph,

I like the look. My wife likes it too. Where did you buy the wood? Lowes? Home Depot? I'll definitely do this. Thanks.


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Actually,
I bought the wood from my lumber supplier that I was using when I was building houses. I would't get the wood from the box stores. They charge too much and you never know what you are getting. Find a local lumberyard or preferably a millwork shop that makes their moldings and finish lumber onsite. They usually have higher quality lumber and are good people to deal with. Not only that, but they will have a much better variety of molding profiles and thicker ones to boot. It's nice using casing that's 3/4" thick. The big box stores don't do a good job with the moldings they stock. Most of it is very thin and not much detail to it. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## LarryS (Jan 2, 2010)

Hi

One way to lower your costs is to use 3/4 veneered plywood and then router the corners to accept a 3/4 x 3/4 hardwood then profile to taste. Considerably cheaper

Larry


----------

