# DIY Tip of the Day!



## Admin

What tips have you learned in your DIY experience that you wish you knew earlier? Let's learn from each other and share our tips! To keep this thread going come back each day to share a tip and read the latest posts. :yes:


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## Admin

To help get this started, I will go first...

I came across this tip on a super simple way to be able to tell if you have a water leak in your toilet tank.



> Water leaking from your toilet tank will not only cost you money when it comes to your utility bill, but it can also cause water damage to your bathroom floor and premature wear of your toilet’s internal workings. To find out whether your toilet tank is leaking, add some red food coloring to the water in the tank. Come back in about an hour and see if the water in the bowl is pink. If it is, you have a leak. http://www.moneycrashers.com/diy-home-maintenance-tips-ideas/


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## ddawg16

I saw this one just the other day.

When trying to paint a straight line using painters tape, after putting down the tape, paint the seam with the same color paint you are trying to protect.

Once that paint dries, go back and paint the other color you want.

The dried paint of the first color seals the seam and prevents bleed over.


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## Rasha

I don't even remember where I saw this tip, but it's made hanging pictures a million times easier. 

Take a piece of paper the size of your frame (or tape pieces together to make a piece of paper the size of your frame). Then tape it to the back of the frame and use a pencil to mark where the back of your frame will need nails. Then take that paper off and hang it on your wall with tape, using a level to get it just right. Hammer in the nails right through the paper in the marked spots. Voila! Perfectly positioned nails for a level frame! Now you can take down the paper and put up the frame.


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## ddawg16

Good first post Rash...and welcome to diy


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## BigJim

If you get a black scuff mark on your Formica or HPL counter top, just rub it with a dab of plain caulk, it will remove the scuff mark.


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## forcedreno2012

Hear are a few from my journey specifically for people using this site......

LISTEN to those that have travelled the path before you (sometimes many times) You may be told the opposite of what you want to hear but 99% of the time the people here know what they are doing. The advice given here is often given from years of experience and at no charge and is priceless. The people here are willing to help and although you might not like the answer there is a REASON you are being given it.

Doing it yourself does not always save money.....sometimes you need to step back and get a professional in to do some work. Refusing to accept you are out of your league will cost you in the long run, and not just money but also in dangerous conditions for you and your family. Does not mean you are a failure and lots of times if they understand the project and what you are dealing with they will offer advice and guide you on your journey. Know when its time to get a professional in and if you are not sure ASK.

Pictures are worth a 1000 words. If you can, post a picture of your issue as sometimes what you are describing is the opposite of what people are thinking. 

Search is your friend...most of the time the question you have asked has been asked before with really good information in the answers. 

The most important THINK SAFETY!!.....your life is not worth a bandaid fix or a jerry rig. If you have family and you are doing DIY - YOU are responsible for your work!! Take the time to understand what you are doing and do it RIGHT not quick. Your family might depend on it. 

WEAR YOUR DAM SAFETY GEAR and always test wiring before playing with electrickery!!

Robyn


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## Admin

Loose hinges drive me crazy so I was pleased to find this tip.



> *On a Cabinet.* Simply remove the small screw and plug the hole with a toothpick dipped in carpenter's glue. Let the glue dry, snap the toothpick flush with the surface, and reinsert the same screw. *On a Door.* Wedge a block of wood under the door's bottom outside corner. Unscrew and swing the loose hinge leaf to the side. Bore out the stripped hole with a ⅜-inch-diameter bit. Spread carpenter's glue onto a matching ⅜-inch-diameter wood dowel and tap it into the hole until it's flush with the jamb. When the glue dries, drill a pilot hole into the dowel and drive a new, longer screw home. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20473628_20924280,00.html


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## Rasha

For potted plants, I put window screen over the drainage holes, then I pile on sea shells (free from the beach!) then I fill with potting mix. This keeps the dirt in but provides good drainage for the plant.


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## lugHead88

You can clean copper with just a bit of ketchup and (I prefer) a green scrub sponge, the thin flat kind. the acid in the ketchup will cut right through all that green crud and make your copper shine like new. Your cat will love it too.


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## Admin

I found this great tip on a blog...



> Always store your good paint brushes in the cardboard sleeves in which they came. Put the brushes carefully back in the sleeves right after cleaning while they’re still damp, and the ends will stay nice and sharp. I’ve stored some of my well-used Purdy paint brushes in their original sleeves for over twenty years, and they’re still good as new. http://www.myrepurposedlife.com/2014/01/diy-tips-from-top-bloggers.html


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## SeniorSitizen

Cricket said:


> I found this great tip on a blog...


My wife likes to paint. I despise painting so my contribution is caring for the brushes in that very manor. I'd guess her expensive ( at the time ) sash brush she excels with when cutting in is nearly 20 years old. Excellent tip.


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## SeniorSitizen

For small cleaning tasks I find a coffee filter or two or 3 or 4 stacked work well. Nearly as tuff as a boot heel, lint free, disposable and from a renewable source.


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## Admin

I found this tip on This Old House...



> Shorten your dryer-vent hose. First, disconnect it and vacuum it out. Then trim the hose length so that it's just long enough for you to pull the dryer a few feet out from the wall. A short and unobstructed line makes your dryer run more efficiently. Cost: Free. Savings: $25 a year on electric, gas, or propane. Bonus: Your clothes will dry about 20 percent faster. http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,20250928,00.html


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## SeniorSitizen

Cricket said:


> I found this tip on This Old House...


Thanks for the tip.

If I pull my dryer out from the wall 4" it's disconnected.:yes: I designed my house that way and my electric Maytag born in 1977appreciates it. It raised 3 kids that could change clothes 2 or 3 times / day depending on the sport and now doing duty for grand kids.

OH, bout forgot. It hasn't been without maintenance. We had to replace a limit switch 5 or 6 years ago. Dang it, a 12 dollar switch and a filter screen in 37 years.:laughing:


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## Admin

Window Screen Cleaning
http://youtu.be/-VzIRFnyoG4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VzIRFnyoG4


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## Admin

Great tips on unclogging your garbage disposal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9L9ZtgL-XQY


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## Admin

*How To Build Solar Water Heater*

Very cool idea!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZxBQRyfKzo


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## Admin

I love this DIY home improvement tip over on livelovediy.com



> *Spray Paint Your Doorknobs*
> If you've been blessed with tons of outdated 1980's brass doorknobs like me, you can easily update them with spray paint. Using the right spray paint will give you a high-end, durable result. And it's much better than paying $20+ a piece for new knobs! http://www.livelovediy.com/2012/08/update-old-doorknobs-with-spray-paint.html


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## Admin

Great article on ways to repurpose old window screens.
http://www.bobvila.com/articles/repurpose-old-window-screens/


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## TheEplumber

Some times it's not possible to drain all the water from a pipe before cutting it. 
Here's a good method to control the water spill/spray-

Have a rag and water pail handy and within reach.
Only cut through part of the pipe. As water starts to squirt out, lay the rag over the partial pipe cut as if throwing a towel over a clothes line- allow it to soak up the water. 
The rag will create a controlled drip into the bucket and not down your arm


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## SeniorSitizen

TheEplumber said:


> Some times it's not possible to drain all the water from a pipe before cutting it.
> Here's a good method to control the water spill/spray-
> 
> Have a rag and water pail handy and within reach.
> Only cut through part of the pipe. As water starts to squirt out, lay the rag over the partial pipe cut as if throwing a towel over a clothes line- allow it to soak up the water.
> The rag will create a controlled drip into the bucket and not down your arm


OK thanks , but that will deprive my grand kids of a second language that my kids learned very early when I did plumbing. They seem to pick it up real fast in their formative years.


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## TheEplumber

Fairview said:


> OK thanks , but that will deprive my grand kids of a second language that my kids learned very early when I did plumbing. They seem to pick it up real fast in their formative years.


Tip #2-- learn to bite your tongue :yes:


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## Admin

5 Cheap Do-It-Yourself Home Repairs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tfT-a9zxFM


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## gma2rjc

Cricket said:


> I love this DIY home improvement tip over on livelovediy.com
> Quote:
> *Spray Paint Your Doorknobs*
> If you've been blessed with tons of outdated 1980's brass doorknobs like me, you can easily update them with spray paint. Using the right spray paint will give you a high-end, durable result. And it's much better than paying $20+ a piece for new knobs! http://www.livelovediy.com/2012/08/u...ray-paint.html


Does anyone know if this will work for the hinges on a door? Will the continuous opening and closing of the door cause the new spray paint to wear off?


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## Admin

This is a cool mini-tip!
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/photos/0,,20740750_30030491,00.html



> *Measuring Without A Tape Measure*
> 
> Aside from memorizing the length of your stride, here are handy approximations to know:
> 
> • Dollar bill: 6 inches long
> • Credit card: 2 inches wide
> • Soda can: 5 inches tall


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## ddawg16

gma2rjc said:


> Does anyone know if this will work for the hinges on a door? Will the continuous opening and closing of the door cause the new spray paint to wear off?


IMO nothing looks more tacky than painted hinges. Looks good until the first time you open the door. 

Unless they are old collectible hinges, replace. 

You have to really question the orig article when they state knobs cost $20 or more. HD carries some decent ones in the $2-5 range


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## gma2rjc

Thanks ddawg. You're right, they do look bad if it's there because someone didn't bother removing or taping over the hinges before they painted the door.

What I was thinking of is taking the original 'gold' colored hinges off the door and using the paint in the link (Krylon?) to paint over them. I wondered if the new paint would rub-off over time.

But, like you mentioned about the knobs, the hinges are only about $8 for a set of 3 at Home Depot, for the color I want.


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## ddawg16

TheEplumber said:


> Some times it's not possible to drain all the water from a pipe before cutting it.
> Here's a good method to control the water spill/spray-
> 
> Have a rag and water pail handy and within reach.
> Only cut through part of the pipe. As water starts to squirt out, lay the rag over the partial pipe cut as if throwing a towel over a clothes line- allow it to soak up the water.
> The rag will create a controlled drip into the bucket and not down your arm


Sort of reminds me of what my dad used to tell me about changing oil on a car, "You're not really a mechanic unless you know the feeling of hot oil running down your arm."


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## fortunerestore

I like the tip on how to find out if there is a water leak in a toilet. It’s simple yet highly practical and effective. Thanks for the links also. 
Here is a tip on how to get a handle on a broken tool. I’m taking a shovel for example:
It’s unfortunate that the age-old skill of replacing a tool’s handle is on the verge of vanishing completely. Still, however, you can do it exactly in the customary way using the following simple steps:
The first thing to keep in mind is that the only way of ensuring the optimal strength of a replacement handle is to find the right direction of the grain of your wood handle
So, attach the new handle in such a manner that the wood grain’s oval rings can smoothly scale up and down the handle’s sides. 
Since the handle can break because of the shovel straining along the ovals, make sure only straight lines of wood grain reveal when you examine the blade of the shovel toward the handle’s face.


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## BigJim

Another tip, do not use silicone sealant on any PVC pipe, at some point down the road it will just snap in half with no warning. One of my boats almost sunk because of that.


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## PaulBob

BigJim said:


> Another tip, do not use silicone sealant on any PVC pipe, at some point down the road it will just snap in half with no warning. One of my boats almost sunk because of that.


Can you elaborate on this? 

I have a 3000 gallon rain water capture system I set up and when I was building it, I wasn't quite sure if I was going to need to make changes so I used clear 100% silicone caulk as one would use PVC glue to assemble the 4 inch pvc pipes. (I did put small screws through the joint where pipe and fittings intersect for a mechanical hold)

There's nothing pressurized.. I wouldn't have trusted an untested method that way.. but some gravity drains are done with silicone. Some of them are even vertical and seem to be just fine on their second year. 

Any thoughts? (no pun intended there bud! LOL)


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## curtd

Our refrigerator/freezer has the freezer above the frig. The freezer section was operating correctly, but the frig not getting to 40 degrees or lower. After clearing out the frig it was soon discovered that the cold air in the freezer naturally falls down thru a vent which cools the frig. Used a air dryer to melt the ice in the vent. Problem solved. If you're about to junk something, nothing to lose by tinkering with it...my diy'er advice


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## BigJim

PaulBob said:


> Can you elaborate on this?
> 
> I have a 3000 gallon rain water capture system I set up and when I was building it, I wasn't quite sure if I was going to need to make changes so I used clear 100% silicone caulk as one would use PVC glue to assemble the 4 inch pvc pipes. (I did put small screws through the joint where pipe and fittings intersect for a mechanical hold)
> 
> There's nothing pressurized.. I wouldn't have trusted an untested method that way.. but some gravity drains are done with silicone. Some of them are even vertical and seem to be just fine on their second year.
> 
> Any thoughts? (no pun intended there bud! LOL)


I wish I had something concrete to give you on this but I don't. I did a search and I am finding nothing so maybe I am wrong about this. I based my statement above on the fact that two different times I had a PVC pipe just snap for no reason, right where the pipe was sealed with silicone sealant. Also a good friend of mine who was a marine mechanic told me to never use silicone on PVC for that reason.

I really do hope I am wrong, that would be bad to have all your water drain out with no back up. I will do some more checking and if I do find something I will make another post.


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## BigJim

Installing stair rail fittings: When installing a fitting to the rail, cut a 1/4-3/8 inch slice of the rail off and use it to mark where you need to drill the holes for the rail bolts. Drive a 6d finish or trim nail, through the 1/4 inch piece at the center of the pilot hole location. Using a pair of ***** or side cutters, cut the nail at an angle leaving about a good heavy 1/8 -5/32 inches long sticking out both sides of the 1/4-3/8 inch profile.

Drive two additional nails one at the top and bottom of the profile on each side of the pilot hole nail. Cut each of those nails like the first one. The nail at the pilot is to mark the location of the pilot holes for the bolt, the other two are to locate where to drive 6d nails into the end of the fitting and cut them like on the profile piece and leave them there. 

The reason for the two short nails left in the end of the fitting is this: when bolting the fitting to the rail, it will sometimes slide due to the glue being slick and make it hard to align the profiles of the fitting to the profile of the rail. With the cut off nails in the end, there is an indention on one where the short nail of the other will fit into and keep the fitting from moving while tightening the bolt. Worked for me, hopefully I explained this where it is understandable.


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## SeniorSitizen

Jim -- I use your idea for alignment on any glue ups that are critical and may have a tendency to squirm. Steel brads for alignment pins on most but if it may be something that someone may need to re-saw some day I use brass brads for pins to preserve a carbide blade.

I find it quicker and more accurate than biscuits and for certain better than dowels.

thanks for the reminder


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## daveblt

When using easy anchors for drywall I find it is better to drill a small 1/8" pilot hole first even though the directions say no pre drilling . Without the pilot hole the tip sometimes breaks or the fastener does not seem to twist into the drywall cleanly.


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## BigJim

Fairview said:


> Jim -- I use your idea for alignment on any glue ups that are critical and may have a tendency to squirm. Steel brads for alignment pins on most but if it may be something that someone may need to re-saw some day I use brass brads for pins to preserve a carbide blade.
> 
> I find it quicker and more accurate than biscuits and for certain better than dowels.
> 
> thanks for the reminder


That is a good thought for other applications, I hadn't thought about doing that but I can see where it would be a good idea.


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## fortunerestore

Today I leant the easiest way create your own indoor waterfall. 
Tips is simple: Begin by creating a frame – this can be made with 2x4 wood studs. This can be finished with moisture proof material. Now, burry the pump well below the surface and cover it up with rocks (faux rocks). There you have a natural waterfall ready for the indoors.


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## MarkSindone

I never knew I could learn so much about proper handling and storage of my tools and equipment here as well as all the countless advice from everyone else. Thanks for sharing everyone!


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## 123pugsy

lugHead88 said:


> You can clean copper with just a bit of ketchup and (I prefer) a green scrub sponge, the thin flat kind. the acid in the ketchup will cut right through all that green crud and make your copper shine like new. Your cat will love it too.



I tried this on the cat with poor results. He freaked out.
Not sure if it was the ketchup or the scrub sponge....:huh:


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## janey6152

Great tips , thanks for sharing


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## Admin

Is Your Outdoor Faucet Giving You Grief?
http://youtu.be/RFVSR-7GfkU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFVSR-7GfkU


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## emmyshaw

Found this on This Old House and I think this is really a great saving tip!



> "Wait to replace your grill, lawn mower, or patio furniture until the fall, when stores mark down their inventory to make room for holiday decorations and snowblowers.
> Cost: Making do with what you have this summer.
> Savings: $150 or more per item.
> Bonus: Retailers—especially online ones, such as Target—often provide free shipping on leftover warm-weather gear.


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## blackone

I am new member here still explore all there is here. btw agree same cricket Let's learn together








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## fireguy

daveblt said:


> When using easy anchors for drywall I find it is better to drill a small 1/8" pilot hole first even though the directions say no pre drilling . Without the pilot hole the tip sometimes breaks or the fastener does not seem to twist into the drywall cleanly.


I use the metal anchors, not plastic. Put the easy anchor against the wall, then reverse the drill. That makes a pilot hole faster then changing the drill bit for a screw bit. If you buy Robertson bits and use self tapping screws, you will same more time and the self tappers will not turn the anchor in the wall.


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## sparkey14

*Measurements!*

Wow most important thing! to use a *tape measure* accurately. The more precise measurements the best everything fix together!. :thumbsup:


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## fortunerestore

Things containing citric acid are good for cleaning copper utensils. The most common thing which is used for cleaning copper is lemon which removes ugly greenish black layer of oxidization. There is a type of grass (don’t know its biological name) that grows in my backyard, it good for cleaning copper utensils.


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## r0ckstarr

fortunerestore said:


> Things containing citric acid are good for cleaning copper utensils. The most common thing which is used for cleaning copper is lemon which removes ugly greenish black layer of oxidization. There is a type of grass (don’t know its biological name) that grows in my backyard, it good for cleaning copper utensils.


Ketchup works good too. :thumbsup:


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## oh'mike

Aluminum pots can be cleaned to a beautiful color by boiling stalks of rhubarb in the pot.

Use a big kettle and stick the smaller pots inside.


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## MarkSindone

Some of the stories here are really quite funny! (Sorry to hear about the mishap with electricty and safety gear though!) If anything, it's a good reminder to make sure that all the necessary tools sand things are out from storage before starting on any home projects ya?


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## Luzziemariam

Thanks for these tips. It really matters.


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## oh'mike

Use a pull out ruler to fish wires across a ceiling or inside of a wall---it will stay straight better than most fish tapes--and you already own one---


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## curtd

For setting the table saw blade to an unknown angle a t-bevel comes in handy https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?p=t-bevel&ei=UTF-8&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001


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## SeniorSitizen

I'm passing on ( without charge ) a long traditional family secret recipe as a DIY guide for making your own *Thousand Island* salad dressing. Get your pencil and paper ready. Old fashion I know.

Mix equal portions of Miracle Whip and ketchup.


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## Ed911

*Hairspray factor and bathroom fans*

If you are considering a bathroom exhaust fan with a light in it, also consider that sooner or later, you'll have to clean the grill due to dust collection.

While this normally isn't such a difficult task cleaning dust out of fan covers, consider adding hairspray to the mix, read dust adhesive, and now things become a lot more difficult.

For the above reason, I recommend a fan similar to the Panasonic that I have in my master bathroom. The light assembly is part of the fan housing, and the grill assembly consists of the lens and a vented housing. I can remove the grill and wash it in the kitchen sink...using soap and water and not have to worry about getting the electrical, socket assembly wet. 

The Broan model that I have in my hallway bathroom, on the other hand, has the light assembly attached to the removable grill. Dust is way harder to remove, since I have to detach the grill, and then unplug the grill assembly from it's housing. Now, I have to be careful that I don't get the electrical parts wet when I clean the grill assembly.

Other than that, the Broan and Panasonic are similar in performance and price. So, if you don't mind working around the electrical parts in the grill assembly, either is a good choice.


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## LeakyHawaiiRoof

A two-sided pumice stone is the best way to clean-up paint from skin. Sure you can use finger nails, but that usually leaves red marks and hurts a bit. 

One day, I was cleaning up after painting a room. I was showering and used my wife's pumice stone (not sure why). Lo and behold, it was like a magic eraser; it perfectly removed the paint without doing anything to my skin.

The pumice stone is a two-sided one like and was bought from Walmart for a few dollars. 99% of the time, the smooth side is good enough to remove the paint.


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## SeniorSitizen

When I was a kid I worked evenings after school and saturdays in a paint store building picture frames and framing. The proprietor purchased powered pumice in 10 gallon kegs to be used for cleaning the glass which had to be spotless to his EAGLE eye.

Lay the glass on the carpeted work bench, sprinkle with pumice, rub with the palm of your hand until no drag was felt, stand on edge and dust off each side with a 4" nylon paint brush. Perfect every time in about 30 seconds.


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## gma2rjc

*DIY De-icer for Car Windows*


1 empty 24 oz. spray bottle

3 oz. rubbing alcohol
6 drops dish soap
warm water

Pour the 3 ingredients into the bottle and swirl until they're mixed, then spray onto icy windows.


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## ToolSeeker

Since about everyone has a drill driver or impact driver nowadays.

If your using longer screws and they keep falling over when your trying to get them started DeWalt makes a magnetic bit holder that has a sleeve that slides down over the screw to keep it from falling over. Others probably make this too but DeWalt is the one I'm familiar with.


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## giwatcher

thanks


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## mae-ling

Pretty basic but one of the best 'tips', think it through and have a complete plan before you start.


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## ddawg16

ToolSeeker said:


> Since about everyone has a drill driver or impact driver nowadays.
> 
> If your using longer screws and they keep falling over when your trying to get them started DeWalt makes a magnetic bit holder that has a sleeve that slides down over the screw to keep it from falling over. Others probably make this too but DeWalt is the one I'm familiar with.


I have one of those....works well

Another trick....smack the screw with a hammer....sort of like the first starting tap you would do with a nail.


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## cjoe

I will definitely use this tip .Can this also be used on polished furniture surfaces ?


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## 123pugsy

cjoe said:


> I will definitely use this tip .Can this also be used on polished furniture surfaces ?


Smacking the screw with a hammer?


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## SeniorSitizen

I don't need a hammer drill or a claw hammer for screws. Those are for folks in some trades that don't mind leaving an aggravation for someone else if it becomes necessary to disassemble or deal with cam outs or dutchmans. 

I still do it the old fashion way.

If I'm working in your shop I'll do it your way. If you're working in my shop you'll do it my way.


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## mae-ling

For all you frugal people out there.
Razor blades are expensive make them last longer by drying them on a towel. Just move them in opposite direction you would use for shaving. This dries them so they do not rust and also has a strop effect like we used to do with a leather strop.


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## Yodaman

Need to hammer a nail at the end of a board and don't want to split the board?
Turn your nail over and hammer that point flat. Now the nail will plow thru and not split 
your board.


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## RocketGal

TIP: Leverage is magic.
I couldn't loosen a nut and thought about giving up. Liquid wrench, vinegar, and others didn't budge it. What worked was enclosing the end of my ratcheting wrench with a metal tube from the long handle of the vacuum cleaner. It added about a foot to the length of the wrench and with a firm tug, but not _that_ much force - the nut loosened and I was finally able to remove it. 
Today, instead of the vacuum pipe, I have a few lengths and diameters of ABS DWV pipe in case I come across other tough nuts in the future.


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## thundermasmacho

*Blower Bypass*

An oldy but a goody: when working on a jobsite with many crew members, all-of-whom are using there own tools, spray paint all your tools one color to easily/immediately distinguish them from everyone else. :thumbsup:


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## SeniorSitizen

Mine were blue.:thumbsup:


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## MassNick

thundermasmacho said:


> An oldy but a goody: when working on a jobsite with many crew members, all-of-whom are using there own tools, spray paint all your tools one color to easily/immediately distinguish them from everyone else. :thumbsup:



Great idea!


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## Helmet

Use the appropriate ladder for the job! I am one year into an 18mo recovery for falling off a ladder I know wasn't right for the job. I broke my tibia, tore the meniscus and tore my ACL. Not fun and definitely not worth trying to hurry a job up.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC

If you need a quick extension for a caulking tube to reach a difficult place, I often use a piece of Romex sheath.... sometimes electric tape it to the tube... other times not necessary.

Best


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## zComm_ryan

*Thanks for the tips*

Thanks for the great tips!


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## clomaquet

*Something my mum told me*

Hello everyone,

Here is my tip:
When trying to paint a straight line using painters tape, after putting down the tape, paint the seam with the same color paint you are trying to protect.

Once that paint dries, go back and paint the other color you want.

The dried paint of the first color seals the seam and prevents bleed over.

Tell me if it worked!

Chloé


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## sunlimpid

forcedreno2012 said:


> Hear are a few from my journey specifically for people using this site......
> 
> LISTEN to those that have travelled the path before you (sometimes many times) You may be told the opposite of what you want to hear but 99% of the time the people here know what they are doing. The advice given here is often given from years of experience and at no charge and is priceless. The people here are willing to help and although you might not like the answer there is a REASON you are being given it.
> 
> Doing it yourself does not always save money.....sometimes you need to step back and get a professional in to do some work. Refusing to accept you are out of your league will cost you in the long run, and not just money but also in dangerous conditions for you and your family. Does not mean you are a failure and lots of times if they understand the project and what you are dealing with they will offer advice and guide you on your journey. Know when its time to get a professional in and if you are not sure ASK.
> 
> Pictures are worth a 1000 words. If you can, post a picture of your issue as sometimes what you are describing is the opposite of what people are thinking.
> 
> Search is your friend...most of the time the question you have asked has been asked before with really good information in the answers.
> 
> The most important THINK SAFETY!!.....your life is not worth a bandaid fix or a jerry rig. If you have family and you are doing DIY - YOU are responsible for your work!! Take the time to understand what you are doing and do it RIGHT not quick. Your family might depend on it.
> 
> WEAR YOUR DAM SAFETY GEAR and always test wiring before playing with electrickery!!
> 
> Robyn


It is realy cool, thanks.


----------



## matsurikafarra

Good day. Thank you for the tip  It was great to know more easy way to repair & reconstruct some appliances. All i need is a maintenance for it. )


----------



## KerstinFiedler2

I just read a post on a forum last month...for picture frames, she uses old toy stuff animal and spay it with gold then paste in a wall...

It was totally beautiful...I love the DIY design...


----------



## thediyhubby

A tip for working with power tools like a drill press: Read the owner's manual very carefully. Learn its applications and limitations, as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to it.

"Safety First"
_link removed_


----------



## SeniorSitizen

thediyhubby said:


> A tip for working with power tools like a drill press: Read the owner's manual very carefully. Learn its applications and limitations, as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to it.
> 
> "Safety First"
> _link removed_


 Those things would make the landfill puke.


----------



## ToolSeeker

I guess I missed something " a drill press would make a landfill puke"?


----------



## SeniorSitizen

ToolSeeker said:


> I guess I missed something " a drill press would make a landfill puke"?


" a drill press would make a landfill puke" - Not my quote.

I said those drill presses in the advertisement would make a landfill puke.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

SeniorSitizen said:


> Those things would make the landfill puke.


Senior.... I thought you meant the instruction manuals....

I think they are so littered with attorney advised "disclusures" (don't touch the blade while it's running.... wear glasses.... don't use this welder while swimming in a lake and welding up your deck supports...) thar effectively everyone ignores reading them...

Maybe a safer thing would be to highlight issues pertinent to the actual tool.... like maybe nail guns on bump fire and nails turning on knots... or maybe the high torque of a hOLE hAWG and watch your clothing... etc..

Best


----------



## Yodaman

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> I think they are so littered with attorney advised "disclusures" (don't touch the blade while it's running.... wear glasses.... don't use this welder while swimming in a lake and welding up your deck supports...) that effectively everyone ignores reading them...
> 
> Best



I agree. Here's a perfect example:
Son buys me a shop radio for my b-day, it uses the same 18v battery as my cordless tools. The first 3 pages of the MANUAL are FINE print WARNINGS!

ITS A RADIO! I threw it away and got back to my regularly scheduled life:no:


----------



## TowerTooth

Cricket said:


> View attachment 88477
> 
> 
> What tips have you learned in your DIY experience that you wish you knew earlier? Let's learn from each other and share our tips! To keep this thread going come back each day to share a tip and read the latest posts. :yes:


cool!


----------



## fermented

Make your own carpenter's level for pennies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-2ZDg5SQbs


----------



## MushCreek

Split old roller covers to pad your ladder racks. I just tape 'em in place.


----------



## mathmonger

You are trying to figure out how to do something by watching a bunch of "How To" videos on YouTube. You sit there for 30 minutes watching some guy from Alabama clean something with a wire brush as he slowly explains a bunch of useless crap. Hopefully somewhere in there you'll find one or two useful gems of info. 

Click on the little gear at the bottom of the screen. Increase the speed. You can still see and hear everything, but it will save time and help you keep your sanity. 

No offense, Alabama people.


----------



## 123pugsy

mathmonger said:


> You are trying to figure out how to do something by watching a bunch of "How To" videos on YouTube. You sit there for 30 minutes watching some guy from Alabama clean something with a wire brush as he slowly explains a bunch of useless crap. Hopefully somewhere in there you'll find one or two useful gems of info.
> 
> Click on the little gear at the bottom of the screen. Increase the speed. You can still see and hear everything, but it will save time and help you keep your sanity.
> 
> No offense, Alabama people.


Hey. I'm loving the gear click. Never knew this. Thanks.
Sounds like the guy is on 4 cups of coffee after speeding it up, ha....


----------



## Kayce

*Maint inspection.*

I went to a talk given by a local (LINK REMOVED) and decided to follow his advice to get a "maintenance inspection." 

We had the house inspected when we purchased it about 7 years ago, and having grown up in the Northwest where we do most things ourselves, addressed all the things our inspector found myself, but time passes and things develop.

He pointed out several things missed and while not really saving me a ton of money, definitely saving me from the aggravation of having to deal with the issues when they become emergent.


----------



## stresslesschair

Very helpful thanks


----------



## TommyQ

I'm new here but this is one that I've come to live by living in an old house and being a carpenter. 

If your door is not closing and hitting up high on the jamb... Shim the top hinge by taking the screws out of jamb half of the hinge and folding some cardboard into a qtr in strip. Place that strip with tape on the inside edge of the hinge behind the hinge. Place the hinge back and tighten the two screws and that aren't in front of the strip first. Then the other screw or screws last. Making sure u only snug them lightly. The part with the cardboard behind it will stick out a bit but will actually pull your door over enough to clear the jamb. You can do the same to bring the door closer to the jamb by placing the strip behind the outside part of hinge. It works.


----------



## mathmonger

TommyQ said:


> I'm new here but this is one that I've come to live by living in an old house and being a carpenter.
> 
> If your door is not closing and hitting up high on the jamb... Shim the top hinge by taking the screws out of jamb half of the hinge and folding some cardboard into a qtr in strip. Place that strip with tape on the inside edge of the hinge behind the hinge. Place the hinge back and tighten the two screws and that aren't in front of the strip first. Then the other screw or screws last. Making sure u only snug them lightly. The part with the cardboard behind it will stick out a bit but will actually pull your door over enough to clear the jamb. You can do the same to bring the door closer to the jamb by placing the strip behind the outside part of hinge. It works.


If you shim the inside, doesn't the hinge bind up before the door closes? Why not just shim the whole hinge? I'll have to experiment with this. 

My method is a little different. I take out one of the screws from the top or bottom hinge and put in a much longer one. It goes through the hinge, through the jamb, and all the way over into the stud. The jamb won't move much because there are shims there, but often it is just enough.


----------



## mathmonger

Templates are better than measurements. You don't care how big something actually is, you just want to know if it will fit.


----------



## Mort

mathmonger said:


> Templates are better than measurements. You don't care how big something actually is, you just want to know if it will fit.


A story stick is worth it's weight in gold. Easier too.


----------



## Yodaman

mathmonger said:


> If you shim the inside, doesn't the hinge bind up before the door closes? Why not just shim the whole hinge? I'll have to experiment with this.
> 
> My method is a little different. I take out one of the screws from the top or bottom hinge and put in a much longer one. It goes through the hinge, through the jamb, and all the way over into the stud. The jamb won't move much because there are shims there, but often it is just enough.



I have been doing this for years. Think of it as moving the centerline of the hinge pin. If the pin moves away from the door, the door will follow it and open up some space at the other side. And just opposite if the pin is moved toward the door.
When placing the shim it should be the full length of the hinge but only about 1/4 or less of the width. Putting a shim in the furthest point from the pin will move the centerline away from the door and placing the shim close to the pin will move the pin toward the door. The shims go under the door casing side of the hinge and this technique is only good for about 1/8". If you need more than that you are going to need a planer. :thumbsup:


----------



## bigcitymike

Great tips here.


----------



## m04

nice post!


----------



## hackney

Thanks, it might be useful for me.


----------



## Circuit_Breaker

For deck screws and longer drywall screws, try impact rated bits and a lithium powered impact driver. Name brand impact bits are harder, fit into the screw heads much more precisely, and won't dull as quickly as the bargain kits.

To make things even easier, put a little soap on the end of the screw.


----------



## Yodaman

Read labels when _h a i r_ sealing. :wink2:

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...tal-confusing-builder-s-foam-hair-mousse.html


----------



## 123pugsy

>>>>>>>>


----------



## BigJim

Man, that gives a whole new meaning to keeping a cool head. LOL


----------



## MT Stringer

Replacing broken screws

I broke a screw while attaching some Blum soft close hinges to a cabinet door. The remaining portion of the screw was flush with the wood and I couldn't get a grip with any of my pliers.

My solution was to use a *plug cutter* to cut a plug out of the door stile which included the broken part of the screw. Then I cut a larger plug from some scrap and glued it into the hole. Note that I masked off the repair area with painters tape to prevent any unwanted sanding marks on the door. When the glue was dry, I sanded the plug flush, pre-drilled a pilot hole and installed the new screw (with a little dab of soap for lubricant). The hinge frame covered the repair so it isn't visible.

Here is a pictorial of my solution.


----------



## distant.saber

Very Helpful! Appreciate it.


----------



## Crazyjake8493

-Instead of buying caulk caps for $1 each or wrapping the tip with tape, buy a brick of duct seal for $3 in the electrical aisle at the hardware store. Break of a little piece, roll it into a ball, and press it over the tip of the caulk tube. Makes a nice tight seal, and it never hardens or cures so you can take it off easily when you need the caulk again.

-If you're using any spray foam (Great Stuff) have a yellow can of the Great Stuff gun cleaner handy. Spray out the straw of the "one time use" cans when you're done, just a bit on the tip of the can, and you'll be able to use the rest of the can when you need it. Brake & Carb cleaner works as well, and cheaper. The acetone in each is what will dissolve the uncured foam. And for large or multiple jobs, buy the Great Stuff gun ($40) and the large cans, definitely worth it.

-Carpentry tip from Norm Abram: Don't measure unless you need to. If you can hold something in place and mark it, it's easier and faster, and you'll never forget or mix up the numbers in your measurements.


----------



## gma2rjc

For cleaning dust from baseboards and the hard-to-clean parts of cabinet doors and 6-panel doors, use a clean, new paint brush. A cheap $2 brush works just as well as an expensive one.


----------



## raizamealupage

Thanks for the tip.


----------



## planetearth

*old timer trick-> hiding nails...*

when I need to hide my nails on facing boards, I inset them about 1/4" then make a thick paste of sawdust and wood glue to fill in the hole to hide the nail. over fill the hole, let dry, sand down smooth.. works every time...


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay

Crazyjake8493 said:


> -Instead of buying caulk caps for $1 each or wrapping the tip with tape, buy a brick of duct seal for $3 in the electrical aisle at the hardware store. Break of a little piece, roll it into a ball, and press it over the tip of the caulk tube. Makes a nice tight seal, and it never hardens or cures so you can take it off easily when you need the caulk again.


What I've found to be about the best way of sealing a partially used tube of caulk is to put it in the freezer. I wouldn't recommend this for a latex caulk, but other caulks cure by a chemical reaction, and the cold temperatures slow that reaction to a snail's pace. Simply squeeze out a bit of caulk and put the tube in the freezer. When you're ready to use the caulk again, apply some pressure on it with your caulking gun and pull out the cured plug at the end of the nozzle. Then squeeze out some more caulk and let the cartridge warm up before using it.



Crazyjake8493 said:


> -If you're using any spray foam (Great Stuff) have a yellow can of the Great Stuff gun cleaner handy. Spray out the straw of the "one time use" cans when you're done, just a bit on the tip of the can, and you'll be able to use the rest of the can when you need it. Brake & Carb cleaner works as well, and cheaper. The acetone in each is what will dissolve the uncured foam. And for large or multiple jobs, buy the Great Stuff gun ($40) and the large cans, definitely worth it.


You can buy plastic tubing that will fit spray foam cannisters at any hydroponics store for about 2 cents per foot. That way, you can simply use a new piece of tubing each time you dispense some expanding foam. Either acetone or your girl friend's nail polish remover and some Q-tips will clean out the screw-on nozzle that comes with expanding foam caulks.


----------



## planetearth

*demolition day penny saver...*

when I am doing a tear-out / demolition in order to do a remodel.. instead of just busting everything apart and tossing it.. pop the items loose then pull the nails.. and toss them in a bucket.. sort the nails later ..-> if they are straight with points keep them.. 
nails are nails.. doesn't matter if they are old or new, just as long as they have points... 
:wink2:


----------



## planetearth

*demolition day penny saver #2*

when doing a demolition, and have already sorted out all your salvageable / reusable materials.. go ahead and sort out the bent nails, left over wiring pieces and any scrap metals into a box.. sort it out later in to piles of steel , copper, aluminum.. etc.. 
steel typically sells for .90c a pound
copper around $1.80 pound
aluminum about .40c a pound.. 

a box of unusable scrap metal can get you at least $20.00 on average.. 
just stop by your local scrap yard on your way home from work or on your lunch break.. they always buy it

:vs_cool:


----------



## Yodaman

planetearth said:


> when doing a demolition, and have already sorted out all your salvageable / reusable materials.. go ahead and sort out the bent nails, left over wiring pieces and any scrap metals into a box.. sort it out later in to piles of steel , copper, aluminum.. etc..
> steel typically sells for .90c a pound
> copper around $1.80 pound
> aluminum about .40c a pound..
> 
> a box of unusable scrap metal can get you at least $20.00 on average..
> just stop by your local scrap yard on your way home from work or on your lunch break.. they always buy it
> 
> :vs_cool:



Not sure if you missed a decimal point on that steel price, around here we get about 7 - 8 cents per pound. Last time I brought in steel I had about 800 lbs and netted about $60 for the load


----------



## planetearth

LOL.. yeah I did type-o that. i'll edit.. thanks!


----------



## melissadavis

Really informative tips


----------



## MushCreek

I'm currently doing molding in our new house, and find that I can't always get it in long enough lengths to avoid butt joints. For instance, much of it I am milling out of 3/4" MDF, which is only 8' long. To make a longer continuous piece, I make a scarf joint. I cut complementary 45 degree angles on the two pieces, then carefully align them and clamp them with a quality wood glue. Wrap the joint in parchment paper to keep everything from getting stuck to the glue. Once dry, use filler and/or sand to cover any gaps or mismatch. With the flat trim I'm making, it's easy to clamp it together between two boards, but complex molding can be tricky to clamp.

Well executed, the resulting joint will be invisible and is just as strong as the wood. Butt joints tend to open up over time and look bad.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

That* Parchment* paper is some good stuff to keep this from sticking to that. I've used it for years when 2 part* Epoxy *is required. If I ever get able to mix* Sackcrete *again I'll try it on 2x4 forms.


----------



## spaceman spif

This makes an awesome snack while working on a project...










BUT the empty container is just as awesome for storing assorted nails, screws, wire nuts, etc!!


----------



## christinedean

Amazing Tips!


----------



## Yodaman

MushCreek said:


> I'm currently doing molding in our new house, and find that I can't always get it in long enough lengths to avoid butt joints. For instance, much of it I am milling out of 3/4" MDF, which is only 8' long. To make a longer continuous piece, I make a scarf joint. I cut complementary 45 degree angles on the two pieces, then carefully align them and clamp them with a quality wood glue. Wrap the joint in parchment paper to keep everything from getting stuck to the glue. Once dry, use filler and/or sand to cover any gaps or mismatch. With the flat trim I'm making, it's easy to clamp it together between two boards, but complex molding can be tricky to clamp.
> 
> Well executed, the resulting joint will be invisible and is just as strong as the wood. Butt joints tend to open up over time and look bad.



just adding to this tip:
If you need to splice molding locate the joint in in the least visible part of the room. Cut your 45 degree spice perpendicular to the most common sight line.
I normally just cut and glue as part of the installation. Use wood glue and wipe off any excess with a damp cloth. The finish nails will hold the joint in place.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

*Replacing Can Light Bulbs*

How many people does it take to change a bulb? You know the rest of that story and if you don't just google it for at least a thousand comical answers.

Anyway, I was about at wits end attempting to remove bulbs that were recessed a little too far. Then I thought of something after my stand by piece of shelf liner gripper failed to remove incandescent bulbs that's been in the sockets for several years.

Yes sir, I have a *new* pair of Atlas mechanics gloves that grab like well, unbelievable. So it really just takes one mechanic.:smile:

Those new LED bulbs are bout to blind us. Where's my sunglasses.:biggrin2:


----------



## Ninja60

Just ran across this video on YouTube. Looks like it may be a simple alternative to the digital tracers that are available.

youtube.com/watch?v=MTBKoJt-DNQ&feature=youtu.be

What do you guys think?


----------



## oh'mike

Ninja60 said:


> Just ran across this video on YouTube. Looks like it may be a simple alternative to the digital tracers that are available.
> 
> youtube.com/watch?v=MTBKoJt-DNQ&feature=youtu.be
> 
> What do you guys think?


Intentionally creating a dead short ,like that video shows, can be a bit dangerous and can cause damage to outlets and arcing if there are any weak connections.

The old tried and true method of plugging in a light up extension cord and keeping the lighted end next to the breaker box is wiser.
turn off breakers ,one at a time, and stop flipping when the light goes off.


----------



## lenaitch

Something about intentionally causing a short bothers me. Better to have a well labeled load centre. I've also had luck with a portable radio (receptacle circuits only). Flip breakers until the music stops.


----------



## Yodaman

oh'mike said:


> Intentionally creating a dead short ,like that video shows, can be a bit dangerous and can cause damage to outlets and arcing if there are any weak connections.
> 
> The old tried and true method of plugging in a light up extension cord and keeping the lighted end next to the breaker box is wiser.
> turn off breakers ,one at a time, and stop flipping when the light goes off.



I like the lighted cord idea. I usually plug in something that makes noise like a radio, or maybe a orbital sander (with the paper off). Of course all you really need is a warm body. So when you yell 3 floors up "tell me when the light goes off" they can let you know. And if sound just doesn't travel as far as you need to reach, there is always cell phones.


----------



## ddawg16

The radio is a better method. 

Actually, it's a lot easier to use your kids. I'm getting ready to teach a merit badge for the boys in our scout troop and part of the requirement will be to map out all the lights in their house.

The plan is (under supervision of one of their parents)...turn off all but one breaker and using a light, go to each outlet to see which ones have power. At each outlet that does, put a sticky note on it with the breaker number.

Then go to the next breaker and repeat.

Once they are done, there should be a sticky note on each outlet.

Next, turn on all lights....then figure out which breaker is in control. In some cases, lights might be tied to outlets.

But you get the jest...

Next, transfer info to diagram out outlet locations.


----------



## ddawg16

Oh, forgot to add.....I write the breaker number on the outlet in small numbers. Usually the lower right corner using a Sharpie fine point


----------



## MushCreek

I labeled all of my outlets and switches inside the box. Pull the plate off, and there it is. I wired my own house, so I already KNOW where all my circuits are, though!

Cell phone won't work in our house- no signal in the basement.


----------



## BigJim

An idea I had a few years ago for hooking up a trailer. I got tired of getting in and out of the truck to see where I was so I made, well actually threw together, a way to see where I was when backing up to the trailer, it works great.


----------



## MushCreek

Excellent idea!


----------



## WilltheEngineer

+1 to this great idea.



BigJim said:


> An idea I had a few years ago for hooking up a trailer. I got tired of getting in and out of the truck to see where I was so I made, well actually threw together, a way to see where I was when backing up to the trailer, it works great.


----------



## Tom738

*Plumbing Valve Air Trick...*

Here's a simple one I picked up from a plumber a while back:

When you're installing a valve for a sink and you need to know if it's open or closed to do the installation, try to blow through it. If it's not allowing air through, it generally won't allow water through.


----------



## choti

As i have completed one month of my job so finally i have learnt the kind of professionalism in the office and politics too which pays a vital role in performing our duties.


----------



## Yodaman

choti said:


> As i have completed one month of my job so finally i have learnt the kind of professionalism in the office and politics too which pays a vital role in performing our duties.



So............ GET A JOB! I like that tip. I wish more folks would try it!


----------



## CPressure

Thanks!


----------



## Yodaman

Lindsey Hill said:


> Use a comb to hammer nails:
> I will fully admit to having hammered my fingers while trying to hammer a nail before. But now I know this trick! You can save your fingers from getting all busted up by using a comb to hold nails in place.



Good idea, probably would work well with those thumb busting short trim nails:surpriseyour fav curse word)


----------



## dcny6923

Good tip, thank you.


----------



## buzzingaround

Great tips thanks

:smile:


----------



## DLawlessHardwar

That you'll get something done faster by just doing it instead of planning it forever. Planning always goes awry somewhere so you may as well get started.


----------



## ktkelly

Here's one you will likely never use:

Need to cut a PVC pipe that's close to a wall? No way to do it with a saw?

Use a piece of brick mason twine.

Slip the twine around the pipe, loop it so you can hold on each end, and start rapidly pulling it back and forth.

It WILL cut right through the pipe.


----------



## Mort

BigJim said:


> An idea I had a few years ago for hooking up a trailer. I got tired of getting in and out of the truck to see where I was so I made, well actually threw together, a way to see where I was when backing up to the trailer, it works great.




I've been meaning to make one of those for a long time.


----------



## btamares

I'm in Killeen texas, how far from the fence to build a storage.


----------



## Marty Gordon

Here's a cool basin wrench. It's a newer product and is much easier to use than the old traditional wrenches.


----------



## Yodaman

Marty Gordon said:


> Here's a cool basin wrench. It's a newer product and is much easier to use than the old traditional wrenches.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnBlpo7w5v4&index=13&list=PLwx0z3qOrtvEJ4Qowrwc2aYjPSDwxsrV3



I have had this wrench for 5-6 years. It is convenient and easier to use than the traditional basin wrench. Does have some limitations (size), but covers most typical supply line connections. Most definitely worth the $15 to $20 cost.


----------



## handy3ddie

Keep you fingernails clean by scratching a soap bar. The soap which assembles under your nails will keep them clean during renovations.


----------



## gma2rjc

handy3ddie said:


> Keep you fingernails clean by scratching a soap bar. The soap which assembles under your nails will keep them clean during renovations.


Sounds like a good idea for when you're doing work in the yard as well.






.


----------



## BriarVance

HI there.. Thank you for the tips. Continue sharing. Have a nice day!


----------



## mathmonger

I just learned this one. I'm going to go try it today! 

Trim coil has a million different uses. Use for covering holes and reinforcing all kinds of stuff. You always want to have some around. But does leftover trim coil go all over the place and get beaten up before you can use it? Here's the answer. Cut a slot in the side of a bucket. Insert roll of flashing. Dispense it like aluminum foil. 

Fiberglass window screening material is handy for reinforcing joint compound and glue in imperfect conditions. Maybe I will cut a roll in half and make a dispensor for that as well.


----------



## chrispaul

Rasha said:


> For potted plants, I put window screen over the drainage holes, then I pile on sea shells (free from the beach!) then I fill with potting mix. This keeps the dirt in but provides good drainage for the plant.


Can I use rocks or other types of stones that can just be found within the yard instead of the sea shells?


----------



## 123pugsy

chrispaul said:


> Can I use rocks or other types of stones that can just be found within the yard instead of the sea shells?


Yep. That's vhat I learned in der skool,.... ya, ya.... :wink2:


----------



## hkstroud

Well here is my attempt to pass along a useful tip.

You know that last shinny new tool you bought. Perhaps it was that small angle grinder or the oscillating multi tool you got from Harbor Freight. You decided you wanted to keep it in the box it came in so you would have all the parts and pieces, like blades, bits and the wrench to change blades and bits in one place.
Well now that box is all beat up. The corners are smashed, the bottom is falling out and the flap you open is completely gone..

When you get your next shinny new tool, before you use it and get the box all beat up, reinforce the corners of the box with clear cellophane packaging tape. Wrap all the corners, double wrap the bottom. Put a strip on the crease of the flap, both inside and outside. That will probably make the box last as long as the tool.

Of course, if you are from Tennessee, Kentucky or Arkansas you can use duck tape.


----------



## gma2rjc

Good tip hkstroud! I do that with the kids' puzzle, game, etc. boxes. It helps a lot.


----------



## mathmonger

If something is sliding around on the table while you are trying to work on it, lay a wet paper towel underneath. Not a bench vise, but sometimes that's all you need. Handy for a little cutting board or sharpening stone.


----------



## yachtcarpentry

love this!:biggrin2:


----------



## SeniorSitizen

mathmonger's tip of the day reminded me of how much I use non skid shelf liner. Pictured is some duck taped to ladder rails as gutter cleaning time is upon us. It helps stabilize ladder some and prevents marring of the gutter finish. 

It works really well to place in a tub or shower to stand on when doing plumbing work there and my wife even allows me to use her counter tops and dining table for special projects if shelf liner is used, especially if the project is hers. Makes small parts not roll around so much and easy to grasp with old stiff fingers.


----------



## gma2rjc

Good tip Seniorsitizen. When the grandkids spend the night, they like to have a fan running while they sleep. I keep a small (but noisy) fan on the table in that room and put a piece of the non-skid shelf liner under it to keep it from vibrating off of the table. The fan has little rubber dots on the bottom of it, but it still slides without the shelf liner.


----------



## mathmonger

A bead of gel-type super glue between two strips of masking tape.


----------



## KPDMinc

ddawg16 said:


> I saw this one just the other day.
> 
> When trying to paint a straight line using painters tape, after putting down the tape, paint the seam with the same color paint you are trying to protect.
> 
> Once that paint dries, go back and paint the other color you want.
> 
> The dried paint of the first color seals the seam and prevents bleed over.



seen the same technique with clear caulk


----------



## zuliaera

Old post but enjoying the comment specially "cricket" best toilet[/URL] leaking comment


----------



## Martillo

Thanks so much Cricket, fantastic tip!!
Now that we have newly introduced water charges, this is a well needed tip.


----------



## KPDMinc

gma2rjc said:


> *DIY De-icer for Car Windows*
> 
> 
> 1 empty 24 oz. spray bottle
> 
> 3 oz. rubbing alcohol
> 6 drops dish soap
> warm water
> 
> Pour the 3 ingredients into the bottle and swirl until they're mixed, then spray onto icy windows.


bottles of "HEET" work best. I used to own a couple gas stations in the midwest, and customers were notoriously freezing there keyholes, gas covers, etc... really works wonders on ice on windows too...


----------



## KPDMinc

mathmonger said:


> You are trying to figure out how to do something by watching a bunch of "How To" videos on YouTube. You sit there for 30 minutes watching some guy from Alabama clean something with a wire brush as he slowly explains a bunch of useless crap. Hopefully somewhere in there you'll find one or two useful gems of info.
> 
> Click on the little gear at the bottom of the screen. Increase the speed. You can still see and hear everything, but it will save time and help you keep your sanity.
> 
> No offense, Alabama people.


I hoped you typed those instructions real slow, cuz them Alabamiuns dont read all that fast... haha


----------



## AzCarpet

Cheep fire starter: Use old gas and styrofoam to get your burn pit going. lots of styrofoam in a little gas makes a sticky past that will not go out easily. 
Caution- use sparingly only when you can't get your wet stuff to start and also remember something that's sticky that burns for 4 to 5 min isn't good to play with.


----------



## gma2rjc

_Other good fire starters..._
pine sap smeared on a stick
a cotton ball coated with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly 
dryer lint
cotton balls or any kind of fabric coated with wax


----------



## jlhaslip

Another good fire starter, which works really well, is to cut old bicycle tubes into pieces and light them. Mountain bike tubes burn for about a minute per inch of tube.
Cut a 3 inch strip, insert a pack of matches inside, fold both ends over and wrap an elastic (or tape) around the package to make it water resistant and throw it in the bottom of your hiking pack.


----------



## 123pugsy

Scratched a door knob yesterday so I wrapped a piece of masking tape around the screwdriver.
Nice. No more trying not to touch the knob.


----------



## gma2rjc

jlhaslip said:


> Another good fire starter, which works really well, is to cut old bicycle tubes into pieces and light them. Mountain bike tubes burn for about a minute per inch of tube.
> Cut a 3 inch strip, insert a pack of matches inside, fold both ends over and wrap an elastic (or tape) around the package to make it water resistant and throw it in the bottom of your hiking pack.


Good information jlhaslip. That reminds me of a tip I read somewhere that if you're hiking out in the wilderness, you can light part of a bike tire tube on fire and the black smoke will let people know where you are.


----------



## jlhaslip

gma2rjc said:


> Good information jlhaslip. That reminds me of a tip I read somewhere that if you're hiking out in the wilderness, you can light part of a bike tire tube on fire and the black smoke will let people know where you are.


If you are lost in the bush, shoot an Eagle.

Some Environmentalist will report you to the Authorities... There's your rescue... :devil3:


----------



## gma2rjc

Hahahaa. :vs_bulb:


----------



## lenaitch

gma2rjc said:


> _Other good fire starters..._
> pine sap smeared on a stick
> a cotton ball coated with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
> dryer lint
> cotton balls or any kind of fabric coated with wax


I have seen some of those on an old tv show Survivorman (Les Stroud). He also used some corn chips on an episode. They lit surprisingly well and long. Works well unless you smoked some weed, got the munchies then ate all your Doritos; but then again you'd be so baked you wouldn't care.


----------



## gma2rjc

I never thought about using chips. I guess anything with oil in it would work. Another thing that works well is alcohol swabs.

I saw a video where they used a mason jar, some olive oil and a long candle wick to make a lamp. It seems like they used a paper clip to keep the lit end of the wick up out of the oil.


----------



## ColeMaude

Thank you for sharing Tip of the day ! :vs_bulb:


----------



## gma2rjc

I don't know if I have already shared this tip in this thread, so sorry if it's a repeat.

The other day I burned my pinky finger on a metal spoon that was hot from being used in boiling veggie oil. Right away, I asked my daughter to get 2 eggs out of the fridge and separate the yolks from the whites.

I whipped the egg whites a little bit with a fork and then held my hand in the bowl, while drizzling the whites over the burnt area for 20 minutes. 

Before I started, the pain was terrible, but when I was done, the pain was gone and there wasn't even a red mark.

I have used egg whites about 3 times now for burns on my own hands and arms and 2 times when my grandson was small and touched hot spots on the stove top and oven rack. It works very well.

Just wanted to share this. If you look it up on Snopes, the last time I checked, they said it doesn't work, but from my own experience, it most certainly does.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

gma2rjc said:


> I don't know if I have already shared this tip in this thread, so sorry if it's a repeat.
> 
> The other day I burned my pinky finger on a metal spoon that was hot from being used in boiling veggie oil. Right away, I asked my daughter to get 2 eggs out of the fridge and separate the yolks from the whites.
> 
> I whipped the egg whites a little bit with a fork and then held my hand in the bowl, *while drizzling the whites over the burnt area for 20 minutes*.
> 
> Before I started, the pain was terrible, but when I was done, the pain was gone and there wasn't even a red mark.
> 
> I have used egg whites about 3 times now for burns on my own hands and arms and 2 times when my grandson was small and touched hot spots on the stove top and oven rack. It works very well.
> 
> Just wanted to share this. If you look it up on Snopes, the last time I checked, they said it doesn't work, but from my own experience, it most certainly does.


Or maybe 20 minutes mitigates the pain....:smile::wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

I use Penaten cream. It burns for a couple minutes and then subsides. I cover the cream with a bandaid right away.


----------



## Matt93

123pugsy said:


> I use Penaten cream. It burns for a couple minutes and then subsides. I cover the cream with a bandaid right away.


Oh never heard of that need to try


----------



## viveksuthar

Hello..
Tips for kitchen cleaning, wash your kitchen sink and floor using the mixture of baking soda and lemon.


----------



## lalitntaparia

I learnt to recycle my beer bottle. I have thrown a lot. I could better use them and can make beautiful crafts, I recently learnt.


----------



## kaynun

cool thread. thanks


----------



## kinderheim511

Always take some duct tape with you when hiking, you can patch up broken boots, rucksacks, rain coats. Prevent blisters. 
Yeah, I love duct tape.


----------



## kathmorgan12

I just read it somewhere and think this might be helpful tip. If you are about to paint textured ceiling please make sure you use a thick-nap roller to ensure that you get full coverage over the bumps and irregularities in the textured surface. Also, for a smooth drywall ceiling, you can use a roller with a smooth or shorter nap.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

kathmorgan12 said:


> I just read it somewhere and think this might be helpful tip. If you are about to paint textured ceiling please make sure you use a thick-nap roller to ensure that you get full coverage over the bumps and irregularities in the textured surface. Also, for a smooth drywall ceiling, you can use a roller with a smooth or shorter nap.


Kath.... and if that popcorn has not been previously painted, you get at most two quick rolls at it..... the popcorn starts dropping when it gets wet.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

gma2rjc said:


> _Other good fire starters..._
> pine sap smeared on a stick
> a cotton ball coated with Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
> dryer lint
> cotton balls or any kind of fabric coated with wax


Yes Sir, and the pine sap reminds me of the _Juniperus Virginiana AKA Eastern Red Cedar tree_, which is distributed throughout the U.S. , is an excellent fire starter. Just ask any wildfire fire fighter about those Cedars and any of its relatives. 

Now to enhance that fire starting quality on a camp out, dry some and place in a baggie to retain the low moisture content and keep it in the back pack. Adds very little weight and is nearly explosive as a fire starter.


----------



## gma2rjc

The leaf stems that fall from walnut trees are great fire starters also. Rake up a pile of them and they spark and crackle in fire pit.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

gma2rjc said:


> The leaf stems that fall from walnut trees are great fire starters also. Rake up a pile of them and they spark and crackle in fire pit.


Too bad there isn't a way I could safely burn them in my guttering.:biggrin2:


----------



## gma2rjc

SeniorSitizen said:


> Too bad there isn't a way I could safely burn them in my guttering.:biggrin2:


 Yeah, the fire department might frown on that kind of thing. :yes:


----------



## mathmonger

Use cheap toilet paper for masking. It is less expensive than tape. It is wider than tape. It is softer and therefore better for following awkward contours. It won't damage surfaces or leave a sticky residue. A few spritzes of water will gently hold it in place, while still allowing you to reposition it.


----------



## Yodaman

mathmonger said:


> Use cheap toilet paper for masking. It is less expensive than tape. It is wider than tape. It is softer and therefore better for following awkward contours. It won't damage surfaces or leave a sticky residue. A few spritzes of water will gently hold it in place, while still allowing you to reposition it.





I won't be critical of your recommendation. I will likely never try it, but have tried painters tape? No residue, and works on walls and ceiling too.


----------



## Artie2

sparkey14 said:


> Wow most important thing! to use a *tape measure* accurately. The more precise measurements the best everything fix together!. :thumbsup:


My son-in-law is a very competent DIY'er, but the other day I saw him doing something strange. He was holding in the end of the tape measure as he made a measurement. He, and I wonder how many others, don't realize that the "slop" in the end is to compensate for the thickness of the tab for inside or outside measurements.



SeniorSitizen said:


> Mix equal portions of Miracle Whip and ketchup.


Isn't that also McDonald's "secret sauce"? :vs_no_no_no:

I have one little safety tip. Whenever I'm going to use a high power tool, (table saw, band saw, router, etc.), just before I make a cut, I ask myself, "How many fingers do I want to cut off today". I generally answer "none". I want safety to be the first and foremost thought in my mind when I make that cut.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

When our small grocer has a special on ground chuck we like to stock up by buying 10-20 lbs. for the freezer.

My wife was never too mechanical and now that her hands are no longer 100 percent I devised a way to quickly package it for freezer storage. Much quicker to thaw than in a 1lb. lump and hamburger ready or any other food choice involving ground beef.

Beginning with 2# bulk purchases, cut in approx. half with whatever tool that makes you happy. Place a quart freezer bag in a clean quart cottage cheese carton and double the top down over the rim. Using that same spatula dump one lb. of beef in. Remove from cheese carton and flatten for better freezer storage. There, you're done. Never contaminated by human hands.:smile:


----------



## jackdeive

thanks


----------



## Drachenfire

When screwing together some woods, the wood tends to raise around the screw holes where the two pieces meet, this is especially true when working with MDF. This makes it hard to get a nice flush fit. 

To avoid the problem, before joining the pieces slightly countersink the holes on both mating surfaces. This gives any raised wood somewhere to go without affecting the flush fit of the joint.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Another approach you may like to consider is to bore the anchor hole through the first member and into the second member the desired depth. Follow this with a pilot hole the size of the screw O.D through the first member and into the second member about an 1/8". This is old fashion and slower that our high speed society but it still stands proud in wood working.


----------



## Nealtw

Countersink with a tapered pilot drill, gets you there.


----------



## Nealtw

Make sure your boss knows where you are jusy before quitting time.


----------



## Drachenfire

If you have some scrap 1 inch boards laying around you can make a cat litter sifter with a gutter screen. 1 x 3 is perfect.

You can get these 3 ft. screens at home centers for about $3.










Cut the screen in half and remove the hinge tabs. Rip some 1/2 inch strips from the 1 inch boards. 

With the rest make an 18 in x 10 in box. Make the long sides long enough to sit on the edges of a litter box.

Place the two pieces of screen on one side of the box with the edges even with the edge of the box and middle overlapping. Use the 1/2 in strips to secure it with nails or screws. 

Place the sifter over an empty litter box, empty the used litter box into the sifter, shake it until all the litter has gone through leaving the clumps behind.

Dump the kitty waste and put the box with the now clean litter in its place.

No more fishing for clumps.


----------



## Drachenfire

If you build a rolling cart and no matter how careful you were about it being square it wobbles a bit on the wheels, here is a simple fix.

Determine which side is high. Place washers over the screws between the wheels and the cart to act as spacers. Check for stability and add another set of washers if needed until the wobble is eliminated. Usually one set will suffice unless the cart is really wracked.


----------



## Drachenfire

If you are working on a ladder that does not have tool slots or you do not have a tool belt, make a hammer holder by securing a c-clamp to the side of the ladder.


----------



## Drachenfire

Have some old three-ring binders you are planning to throw out? Trim off the front and back covers and screw the ring bar to a shelf. They are great for hanging paint brushes.


----------



## Drachenfire

If you need to determine what size bit you need for a bolt and do not have a caliper, grab your adjustable wrench. Place it on the bolt threads and adjust it down until it touches. Now all you have to do is measure the opening between the wrench jaws to determine the bit size needed.


----------



## calumingraining

Have you chewed the head of the screw and you have no way of getting it out?

No fear, grab an elastic band (or something similar, I've used a glove!) and push it into the screw head and slowly unscrew with a low speed/high torque setting on your combi drill. 

Avoid using an impact gun. 

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk


----------



## haitemzerdazi

Amazing thank you all


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> If you need to determine what size bit you need for a bolt and do not have a caliper, grab your adjustable wrench. Place it on the bolt threads and adjust it down until it touches. Now all you have to do is measure the opening between the wrench jaws to determine the bit size needed.


And later in life I realized why I was to learn how to sum up numbers in my formative years. My hat is off to those who were persistent in that pursuit. :vs_cool:

With little machine screws like #'s 6, 8 and 10 as an example, an inexpensive tool called a feeler gauge can be used to insert into the adjustable jaws for a more precision measurement if that is necessary. It seems that later in life I can see and add feeler gauge numbers easier than attempting to read 1/64 's on a ruler.:biggrin2:


----------



## Nealtw

Drachenfire said:


> If you need to determine what size bit you need for a bolt and do not have a caliper, grab your adjustable wrench. Place it on the bolt threads and adjust it down until it touches. Now all you have to do is measure the opening between the wrench jaws to determine the bit size needed.


But then you have to read the numbers on the drill , just use the wrench as a go- no go gauge and match the drill bit


----------



## mathmonger

When you're sweeping up debris, sometimes a piece will be a little sticky and the bristles just won't quite budge it. This is usually at the end of the day and you sure don't feel like getting down there and picking at it with your fingernail. Especially if there are a lot of them. Solution: bend the side of the bristles over the top of it and grind it with your foot to break it free. Then sweep as usual. 

Similarly, if you notice some dried paint splatters at the end of a paint job and you don't have a scouring pad, grind them with the side of a stiff paint brush's bristles.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

SeniorSitizen said:


> And later in life I realized why I was to learn how to sum up numbers in my formative years. My hat is off to those who were persistent in that pursuit. :vs_cool:
> 
> With little machine screws like #'s 6, 8 and 10 as an example, an inexpensive tool called a feeler gauge can be used to insert into the adjustable jaws for a more precision measurement if that is necessary. It seems that later in life I can see and add feeler gauge numbers easier than attempting to read 1/64 's on a ruler.:biggrin2:


More often than not I use the drill index that's graduated in 1/64's and find the hole I like as a gauge. On common wood screws it works both for pilot and anchor holes.


----------



## mathmonger

How do you keep the screws from falling off the bit? 

Yesterday, I was trying to screw several pull-out wire baskets onto wooden shelves. There was not a lot of room to work between the shelves. Each basket holds a lot of weight, especially when it is pulled out all the way, so they recommend putting in 10 screws. Multiply that by about 10 baskets. Maybe 100 screws altogether. The baskets were not removable, so I had to fish each of these screws down through the wire basket. There was no room for fingers to hold the screw. As soon as I turned the driver upside down, the screw fell off. And then I had to fish it back up through the wire basket! I have a few magnet options, but these screws were not sticking to magnets. Ack! It was seriously aggravating. 

Solution? I squirted a little construction adhesive onto a piece of cardboard. Before loading each screw, I stuck the tip of the driver bit in the glue. No need to wait for it to dry. The sticky glue was plenty strong to hold the screw on the bit until I could drive it in.


----------



## jlhaslip

mathmonger said:


> How do you keep the screws from falling off the bit?
> 
> Yesterday, I was trying to screw several pull-out wire baskets onto wooden shelves. There was not a lot of room to work between the shelves. Each basket holds a lot of weight, especially when it is pulled out all the way, so they recommend putting in 10 screws. Multiply that by about 10 baskets. Maybe 100 screws altogether. The baskets were not removable, so I had to fish each of these screws down through the wire basket. There was no room for fingers to hold the screw. As soon as I turned the driver upside down, the screw fell off. And then I had to fish it back up through the wire basket! I have a few magnet options, but these screws were not sticking to magnets. Ack! It was seriously aggravating.
> 
> Solution? I squirted a little construction adhesive onto a piece of cardboard. Before loading each screw, I stuck the tip of the driver bit in the glue. No need to wait for it to dry. The sticky glue was plenty strong to hold the screw on the bit until I could drive it in.


Nice fix. What were the screw heads? Phillips or Robertson?
I find Robbies are easier to manage in those situations. With a good, new tip.


----------



## 123pugsy

jlhaslip said:


> Nice fix. What were the screw heads? Phillips or Robertson?
> I find Robbies are easier to manage in those situations. With a good, new tip.


The Americans don't like the Robertson's for some reason, even if it makes their life easier.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

123pugsy said:


> The Americans don't like the Robertson's for some reason, even if it makes their life easier.


This bloody American likes them and buys them when available. They are so good* Kreg* has adopted them.


----------



## Drachenfire

Easy way to clean your stove top.

Get a box of baking soda and a few cloth dishtowels. 

Fill the sink with enough hot tap water soak the dishtowels.

Liberally sprinkle baking soda over the stove top.

Take the hot dishtowels and wring them just enough so they do not drip and spread them out over the baking soda.

Let it sit for for 10-15 minutes.

Remove the towels and wipe up stove top. Spilled or burnt food will wipe right off and you do not have to worry about accidentally scratching the surface.


----------



## ZackRight

This is very good idea.. I use the blue tape that won't damage the wall or any other surface, easy to put and remove.


----------



## CaseyClements

thanks


----------



## Yodaman

I had the pleasure of installing about 100 little eye hooks this weekend for Christmas lights. After drilling a small pilot hole, starting the hook by hand, I was able to turn them in using my cordless drill.
Loosen the chuck retracting the jaws some. Use very low speed and you can drive them in.


----------



## Nealtw

Yodaman said:


> I had the pleasure of installing about 100 little eye hooks this weekend for Christmas lights. After drilling a small pilot hole, starting the hook by hand, I was able to turn them in using my cordless drill.
> Loosen the chuck retracting the jaws some. Use very low speed and you can drive them in.
> View attachment 451417


The other trick is just put a hook in the drill hook together and drive.:glasses:


----------



## mathmonger

Drachenfire said:


> Easy way to clean your stove top.
> 
> Get a box of baking soda and a few cloth dishtowels.
> 
> Fill the sink with enough hot tap water soak the dishtowels.
> 
> Liberally sprinkle baking soda over the stove top.
> 
> Take the hot dishtowels and wring them just enough so they do not drip and spread them out over the baking soda.
> 
> Let it sit for for 10-15 minutes.
> 
> Remove the towels and wipe up stove top. Spilled or burnt food will wipe right off and you do not have to worry about accidentally scratching the surface.


Didn't work for me. I even tried boiling some water in case my tape water wasn't hot enough. 

I was having some good luck the other day with a secret magic recipe of Bar Keeper's friend and SC Johnson paste wax. Still took a lot of elbow grease, but it worked. 

I also had some luck wet sanding my glass stove top with P2000 sandpaper. It was a lot of work, but definitely working. I want to try a slightly lower grit when I get a chance.


----------



## Nik333

mathmonger said:


> Didn't work for me. I even tried boiling some water in case my tape water wasn't hot enough.
> 
> I was having some good luck the other day with a secret magic recipe of Bar Keeper's friend and SC Johnson paste wax. Still took a lot of elbow grease, but it worked.
> 
> I also had some luck wet sanding my glass stove top with P2000 sandpaper. It was a lot of work, but definitely working. I want to try a slightly lower grit when I get a chance.


Did you try oven cleaner? It's not exciting, but it works. :wink2:
I use 409, first, & it usually works.


----------



## jlhaslip

My secret is to wipe it down with a dish cloth after washing the dishes. 
If it never gets dirty, it is easy to clean.


----------



## JasperST

I had a top of the line white GE flat top. I babied it, used Bar Keepers, did the wet sanding with a Porter Cable RO sander, buffing compound, you name it. It still looked good after 8 years but was discolored a bit. I missed gas so got rid of it. The glass is a bit porous for thermal transfer so there's only so much you can do.


----------



## ZackRight

great tip!!! love to see this type of posts, they are so helpful.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79

Spray on KrudKutter and let it sit a few minutes and then scrape over the glass with a flat razor blade to cut burned on particles, while angled almost flat. Wipe well with some wet paper towels, then finish with dry paper towels. . JMO


----------



## cliftoncburton

useful tips everyday life


----------



## LaLongs

A dull razor (held at a 45 degree angle) scrapes anything off a glass-top stove.


----------



## Drachenfire

mathmonger said:


> Didn't work for me. I even tried boiling some water in case my tape water wasn't hot enough.
> 
> I was having some good luck the other day with a secret magic recipe of Bar Keeper's friend and SC Johnson paste wax. Still took a lot of elbow grease, but it worked.
> 
> I also had some luck wet sanding my glass stove top with P2000 sandpaper. It was a lot of work, but definitely working. I want to try a slightly lower grit when I get a chance.


I do not know what to tell you, it works every time for me. When you placed the towels down did you insure they were in full contact with the baking soda? Also the towels need to be saturated to where they are just wet enough not to drip.


----------



## CaptTom

We're fairly new to our glass cooktop (had it a little over a year now) and we've been pretty happy with the cooktop cleaning kit we bought at the same time:









It really takes a lot of maintenance to keep these things clean! We got some minor scratching before we found out how much you have to baby them. And over time it has begun to look less than new.


----------



## Druidia

For glass stove tops, I just use hand dishwashing detergent to clean after every meal (along with cleaning backsplash and counters). If there are any cooked-on food drippings, I use fiberglass brush (it’s like the fiberglass pen used for cleaning watches but bigger). 

I have to keep my stove top and counters clean grease-Free when there’s no cooking taking place because the kitchen is also my crafts/DIY/fix it/tinkering area.


----------



## DineshMT

Cricket said:


> I found this tip on This Old House...


Thank you for the tip


----------



## SmilingBlonde

My tip has to do with your laundry room. I can't believe the number of laundry rooms I'm seeing without an independent lint trap (meaning not the one that is in your dryer). If you don't have a lint trap already I would highly recommend having one installed. It will significantly reduce your drying time, which will in turn reduce your electricity bill.
Excessive lint build up is the number one cause of dryer fires in North America. This can be greatly reduced with the installation of a lint trap.
Also consider checking the length of your dryer hose. An excessively long hose can easily trap lint which then builds up to become a fire hazard. The hose should only be long enough to move the dryer a few feet away from the wall and should have an unobstructed path for maximum ventilation. Cheers!


----------



## Two Knots

My tip is cleaning a stainless steel gas stovetop.
On another decorating forum people complained about
burnt on grease on their stainless steel stove tops that are
impossible to clean. 
I'm a cooking fool (actually, I'm a very serious cook)
and so is my main man, we cook and fry up 
the wazoo and not worry about my stove ( which I'm very fussy about)
Here is how I clean mine...

I buy oven cleaner (in a spray can) in the dollar store for a dollar.:biggrin2:

First turn the burners on for a 'couple' of minutes to heat up the surrounding
area around the burners. Then shut them off the stove and spray all around
with the oven cleaner...Wait 15-20 minutes then clean around with a medium
soft tooth brush. ( I keep a toothbrush in my dish washer all the time for
cleaning certain things in the kitchen)
If it doesn't take it all off...then repeat.


The grills I wash in the dishwasher once a week, I lay them in the dish 
washer, then spray them with a degreaser, 
let them sit for awhile, and them wash as usual with dish washer detergent...This keeps them
from getting crispy. :biggrin2:

This is my stove top...It was three years old in March.


----------



## Two Knots

cleaning a stainless steel sink...
I do this about once a month or so

After cleaning out the sink with hot water and
detergent I then paper towel it dry...then squeeze a dollop
of Noxon (7 in one polish, and polish up the sink with
a slightly damp sponge or dish rag. 

Then rinse off with soap a water and a dish rag until
clean and shiny.

The sink comes brand new ...


----------



## Two Knots

Cleaning countertops...This only works if you have under-mount
sinks. I have one long counter in our kitchen 10' long. There is 
the undermount sink on this counter...

This is where I do all the food prep. 
I clean the counters with either windex with vinegar 
or Mr. Clean, or whatever I grab :biggrin2: 

One day I complained about doing this time consuming chore...
The head guy got his window cleaning squeegee, sprayed the 
entire counter then squeegee the cleaner into the sink. :surprise:
Wow, it was done in only a few seconds. 
It was delightful...he has since taken over this chore. :smile:


----------



## kevingarlandmag

Here is my entry: The main cause of leaky faucets is worn out washers. The washers inside of the faucet handles are rubber and tend to wear out quickly. Replace them by turning off the main water supply, unscrewing the leaky handle that controls the flow of water to the spout, removing the old washer, and dropping in the new one.


----------



## Drachenfire

The oil filter on some vehicles hangs down from the engine. This orientation makes changing the filter quite messy as once the filter is unscrewed and the seal is broken, oil spills out over the sides of the filter.

For cleaner removal, get an inexpensive center punch or scratch awl (usually less than $5 at a home center) and sharpen the point maintaining a nice taper. 

Place the catch container under the filter, set the punch at the center the filter and hit it with a hammer to puncture the metal. Keep tapping until a bit of oil begins to seep out of the opening. Wiggle the punch and quickly pull it out letting the oil drain. 

When no more oil comes out, you can now unscrew the filter without the mess.


----------



## interiordesign2

I've learned that when you get a scratch on a piece of furniture a dab of toothpaste is very effective at getting out the scratch and making your furniture look as good as new. :smile:


----------



## SPS-1

Drachenfire said:


> When no more oil comes out, you can now unscrew the filter without the mess.


One small change I would make to those instructions. Give the oil filter a bit of a twist, just to break it free, before you pop a hole in the filter. 

You would hate to be in the situation where your engine is empty of oil, filter has a hole at the bottom, and then you find your filter is jammed on and can't break it free. Unlikely the filter is on so tight, but on some engines you have little space to put a strap wrench on the filter, and some cheap filters have very shallow grooves at the bottom.


----------



## Drachenfire

SPS-1 said:


> One small change I would make to those instructions. Give the oil filter a bit of a twist, just to break it free, before you pop a hole in the filter.
> 
> You would hate to be in the situation where your engine is empty of oil, filter has a hole at the bottom, and then you find your filter is jammed on and can't break it free. Unlikely the filter is on so tight, but on some engines you have little space to put a strap wrench on the filter, and some cheap filters have very shallow grooves at the bottom.


Good idea, just make sure you do not unscrew it to the point where oil starts to come out otherwise it defeats the whole purpose of punching the hole.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

I loosen mine until I can rotate it by hand then drill a hole.

As a DIY'er you won't have a problem removing your filter but the original factory is always installed by Gorilla Bubba and an impact because of assembly line speed requirements and those at JiffyLube are just stupid or do it for fun.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

A horizontal filter mount can sure make a mess on a lawn tractor, so I loosen the filter, drill a hole then rotate the filter 180° so it drains into my makeshift AL foil funnel. Rather than oil everywhere, not a drop on the tractor, belts and all those places oil isn't needed.


----------



## Drachenfire

SeniorSitizen said:


> I loosen mine until I can rotate it by hand then drill a hole.
> 
> As a DIY'er you won't have a problem removing your filter but the original factory is always installed by Gorilla Bubba and an impact because of assembly line speed requirements and those at JiffyLube are just stupid or do it for fun.


I have never taken any of my vehicles to a quick lube place and never will. I have read to many horror stories and seen to many exposes on the scams and incompetence practiced by some of these places. After all what quality of service can you really expect for a $25-$30 (conventional oil) oil change? 

At that price, can you imagine how those oil jockeys are pushed to increase volume and what shortcuts they take to do so? There have been exposes that have shown some of these shops charging for oil changes that were never done. There were cases where the customer paid for synthetic oil ($10/qt) but their engine was filled with conventional ($3/qt).

Then there are the real horror stories where oil was never put in or the drain plug was not reinstalled resulting in a blown engine and the quick lube doing everything they can to avoid paying for the damages. 

No my friends if I ever get to the point where I am unable to do my own oil changes, I will gladly pay my mechanic whom I trust to do it.


----------



## bobson65

Tips For Improving Your Security Lighting System

Adding security lighting is the number one step homeowners can take to protect their property from unwanted intruders. Statistics show that burglars bypass targets that are difficult to access without being noticed. A well-designed security lighting system can make would-be robbers think again before approaching your property. This guide will show you how to create an effective, low-cost LED security lighting system for your home or business.

Use many smaller lights rather than fewer, more powerful lights
Big, powerful flood lights are good for open spaces, but can sometimes leave shadows if there are obstacles on your property like buildings and trees. Using a combination of LED flood lights, area lights and wall packs will reduce shadows and blind spots that intruders can use to hide.

Keep lights high and out of reach
It’s important to make it difficult for burglars to tamper with your security system. Many thieves will plan heists for several weeks and finding a way to disable security lights is often a top priority. Even the best security lighting can be rendered useless if an intruder is able to incapacitate the system. Keeping lights high and out of reach will make it difficult for your system to be tampered with. Placing lights high will also soften the light for a pleasant look and increased coverage.

Use Motion Detector Lights
Motion detector lights are an effective way to scare off intruders. Burglars will be on edge during a robbery and having a light flick on as they walk by is often times enough to scare them away. A good combination of LED spotlights and motion detector lights will work to keep intruders off of your property and scare away those who choose to enter. 

Focus on Entrances and Exits
Most criminals seek out targets that can be accessed at night without being seen. Ensuring excellent light coverage at all entrances and exits will deter criminals from planning a robbery at your property.

Why LED?
Efficiency: LED lights offer exceptional efficiency and are more cost-effective in the long run. An LED light fixture will use 90% less electricity than an equivalent incandescent. This is also important if your security lights are forced to run on a backup generator. Less energy draw means your lights will last longer on a limited supply of power.

Longevity: A quality LED bulb can have a useful life of 25,000 hours or more. This is more than 25 times long than traditional light bulbs. 

Safety: LEDs run cooler than conventional light sources and are therefore less of a fire hazard. 

Durability: LEDs lack filaments or glass enclosures, making them more durable than traditional alternatives.

Same colors as traditional bulbs: LEDs can achieve the same colors as traditional bulbs. Use the Kelvin temperature color scale below to help identify the hue a bulb will produce.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

In the 1970's after gasoline went from $0.29 to 3 bucks / gallon I built a solar test module and burned my finger on a thermometer stem while the outdoor ambient was 25°F. Can you top that?


----------



## mpmp2121

The gents who delivered my new stacking washer and dryer used windex to effortlessly move the stacked units into place. I had to replace the dryer cord and paint the room afterward - puny me, I was also able to effortlessly move the stacking units across my tile floor with no scratching.


----------



## 123pugsy

corkco said:


> Once that paint dries, go back and paint the other color you want.



Hey Corko.


You should edit your address out.
Just maybe the town and province is enough.


----------



## Drachenfire

Those growing up in the days before CDs probably know this trick. We used to do it when I was a radio station DJ.

Now that vinyl records are coming back, some may be investing in a turntable and breaking out the old family record albums... This also means having to hear the hiss crackle and pops as those old records play.

To greatly reduce the hissing, crackling and popping, coat the vinyl with a cotten ball dampened with alcohol before playing. This is especially helpful if your coverting that old Herman's Hermits album to digital.

This process works best if you keep the track damp as it plays.

You can spend as much as $3000 (Audio Desk Systeme) on record cleaning systems, but a $2 bottle of alcohol from your local pharmacy will work as well.


----------



## johndale

This is the best DIY tips for me cause we all know that it's hard to clean those dripped paint on the floor. Prevent dripping paint cans, Take a disposable paper plate that is an inch or two wider in diameter than the paint can and glue to its base.


----------



## Yodaman

Here's a free tip! When the head gasket in your large air compressor blows out, don't replace it with cork gasket mat'l. Little pieces of the cork break off and flow down the tank inlet tube. But before they reach the tank, they clog up your check valve allowing the entire tank of compressed to release thru the unloader valve. 

Still learning life lessons :glasses:


----------



## SPS-1

SeniorSitizen said:


> In the 1970's after gasoline went from $0.29 to 3 bucks / gallon I built a solar test module and burned my finger on a thermometer stem while the outdoor ambient was 25°F. *Can you top that?*



In the 1970's I learned not to use my teeth to strip wire insulation off wires to line voltage filter capacitors (old tube radio).


----------



## SeniorSitizen

SPS-1 said:


> In the 1970's I learned not to use my teeth to strip wire insulation off wires to line voltage filter capacitors (old tube radio).


OH SHUT, hell yes you topped that.


----------



## johndale

That you can clean a rusty tool using a soda.


----------



## jeff_pohlmann

bobson65 said:


> Tips For Improving Your Security Lighting System
> 
> Adding security lighting is the number one step homeowners can take to protect their property from unwanted intruders. Statistics show that burglars bypass targets that are difficult to access without being noticed. A well-designed security lighting system can make would-be robbers think again before approaching your property. This guide will show you how to create an effective, low-cost LED security lighting system for your home or business.
> 
> Use many smaller lights rather than fewer, more powerful lights
> Big, powerful flood lights are good for open spaces, but can sometimes leave shadows if there are obstacles on your property like buildings and trees. Using a combination of LED flood lights, area lights and wall packs will reduce shadows and blind spots that intruders can use to hide.
> 
> Keep lights high and out of reach
> It’s important to make it difficult for burglars to tamper with your security system. Many thieves will plan heists for several weeks and finding a way to disable security lights is often a top priority. Even the best security lighting can be rendered useless if an intruder is able to incapacitate the system. Keeping lights high and out of reach will make it difficult for your system to be tampered with. Placing lights high will also soften the light for a pleasant look and increased coverage.
> 
> Use Motion Detector Lights
> Motion detector lights are an effective way to scare off intruders. Burglars will be on edge during a robbery and having a light flick on as they walk by is often times enough to scare them away. A good combination of LED spotlights and motion detector lights will work to keep intruders off of your property and scare away those who choose to enter.
> 
> Focus on Entrances and Exits
> Most criminals seek out targets that can be accessed at night without being seen. Ensuring excellent light coverage at all entrances and exits will deter criminals from planning a robbery at your property.
> 
> Why LED?
> Efficiency: LED lights offer exceptional efficiency and are more cost-effective in the long run. An LED light fixture will use 90% less electricity than an equivalent incandescent. This is also important if your security lights are forced to run on a backup generator. Less energy draw means your lights will last longer on a limited supply of power.
> 
> Longevity: A quality LED bulb can have a useful life of 25,000 hours or more. This is more than 25 times long than traditional light bulbs.
> 
> Safety: LEDs run cooler than conventional light sources and are therefore less of a fire hazard.
> 
> Durability: LEDs lack filaments or glass enclosures, making them more durable than traditional alternatives.
> 
> Same colors as traditional bulbs: LEDs can achieve the same colors as traditional bulbs. Use the Kelvin temperature color scale below to help identify the hue a bulb will produce.


bobson65 very well said


----------



## johndale

Love this thread though, I learned a lot so thanks!


----------



## PPBART

I'm in the process of building a mobile cabinet of drawers to fit under one of my workbenches. Best deal around for swivel casters in Harbor Freight -- no, not their casters, but rather just buy one of the 12"x18" hardwood dollies (on sale or with coupon, usually available for less than $10 ) and remove the casters from it. The dolly has a stated load capacity of 1,000 lbs, which should work out to 250 lbs per caster. I've done this several times and never had a problem.


----------



## mathmonger

SPS-1 said:


> One small change I would make to those instructions. Give the oil filter a bit of a twist, just to break it free, before you pop a hole in the filter.
> 
> You would hate to be in the situation where your engine is empty of oil, filter has a hole at the bottom, and then you find your filter is jammed on and can't break it free. Unlikely the filter is on so tight, but on some engines you have little space to put a strap wrench on the filter, and some cheap filters have very shallow grooves at the bottom.


In a pinch, you can hammer a big screwdriver through the filter and that'll give you lots of leverage to spin it off. Easier to just get the right size filter wrench for your car and put it on a ratchet handle. Strap wrenches are annoying.


----------



## Drachenfire

I have a couple of cup style filter wrenches. One for the Silverado and the other for the Nissan.










The only filter I had an issue with is Mobile1. I got around that by shimming the filter with a rag which worked. When I had switched to Purolator filters, I no longer had the issue.


----------



## CaptTom

I had a filter that I'd tried the screwdriver through it trick, and only ended up ripping the whole metal shell off. Only thing left was the base of the filter, still stuck tight.

I ended up using an adjustable bronze deck key I bought at the boating store. The pins that normally engage the filler caps fit into the holes in the base of the filter.

Tried adding an image but it's not coming out:
http://www.valley-marine.com/uimages/product_images/s/sea-dogcorp/354-3356801_b.jpg

I've found a thousand other uses for it since, all over the house and the boat. Sometimes even on deck fittings.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

CaptTom said:


> I had a filter that I'd tried the screwdriver through it trick, and only ended up ripping the whole metal shell off. Only thing left was the base of the filter, still stuck tight.
> 
> I ended up using an adjustable bronze deck key I bought at the boating store. The pins that normally engage the filler caps fit into the holes in the base of the filter.
> 
> Tried adding an image but it's not coming out:
> http://www.valley-marine.com/uimages/product_images/s/sea-dogcorp/354-3356801_b.jpg
> 
> I've found a thousand other uses for it since, all over the house and the boat. Sometimes even on deck fittings.


Thanks for posting the Deck Key pic. I'm always interested in_ - historical tools I suspect it is? - _and I had no idea without that picture.


----------



## Drachenfire

Save those plastic takeout bowls and trays.

Some of the places we get takeout from have round deep plastic trays and bowls in various sizes from quart on down to smalls ones sauces come in. Almost all come with lids.

We also sometimes buy pre-made mashed potatoes which comes in square plastic trays. 

I wash these out and save them. 

They make excellent disposable trays for painting and gluing small projects or custom mixing small amounts of paint.

Similar plastic trays of comparable size at the big box stores cost almost $2 each.


----------



## Yodaman

Drachenfire said:


> Save those plastic takeout bowls and trays.
> 
> Some of the places we get takeout from have round deep plastic trays and bowls in various sizes from quart on down to smalls ones sauces come in. Almost all come with lids.
> 
> We also sometimes buy pre-made mashed potatoes which comes in square plastic trays.
> 
> I wash these out and save them.
> 
> They make excellent disposable trays for painting and gluing small projects or custom mixing small amounts of paint.
> 
> Similar plastic trays of comparable size at the big box stores cost almost $2 each.



Piggybacking on the above, I keep a whole cabinet in the basement dedicated to repurposed containers. Mostly from food items, like coffee, peanut butter, nuts. Small vitamin bottles or cleaner bottles.
Whenever I need a container for anything, I can usually find something to fit the need.


----------



## Patriciaz

Well, this is maybe a simple tip but I think it will worth for some of you. What do you do when you have paint on your skin? How do you remove it? What I do is I use baby oil which helps to residue off paint from your skin easily. :smile:


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Patriciaz said:


> Well, this is maybe a simple tip but I think it will worth for some of you. What do you do when you have paint on your skin? How do you remove it? What I do is I use baby oil which helps to residue off paint from your skin easily. :smile:


That gives me an idea. Just oil my skin before I paint. We're out of babies and baby oil but I'm bet-en Mineral Oil would do the trick. In fact that may be an old painter's trick but it seems they may have used Vaseline.


----------



## Nealtw

SeniorSitizen said:


> That gives me an idea. Just oil my skin before I paint. We're out of babies and baby oil but I'm bet-en Mineral Oil would do the trick. In fact that may be an old painter's trick but it seems they may have used Vaseline.


 Latex works pretty good too.


----------



## Yodaman

I use soap warm water and a Scotch brite pad for the stubborn spots.


----------



## Drachenfire

Gluing together large panels like out-feed tables or multiple strips such as those used when making cutting boards can be tedious, messy and time consuming when spreading the glue with small brushes.

Get yourself a brayer rubber roller. 

Actually designed for rolling out ink, they work great for quickly and evenly spreading glue. 

Although available in sizes ranging from 1.5-6-inches, I find the 4-inch roller most suitable for the task.

Because the roller surface is rubber, excess glue washes off quickly and easy with warm tap water.


----------



## mathmonger

Cut a notch in a stripped screw head and turn it with a flat head screwdriver. 

Cut a notch in the opposite end of a screw (partial length of shaft) to make it easier to start if parts are not lined up or threads are damaged.


----------



## Drachenfire

Trying to move wet snow with a walk behind snow blower can be problem sometimes.

Before starting, spray the chute with some cooking spray and that snow will fly a lot better. Keep the can handy and reapply as needed.

Some people suggest using WD-40. I do not like this idea as I normally blow the snow onto my lawn and as such do not want petroleum products to kill it or get into the soil.


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## mathmonger

Hot glue is awesome. It sticks to pretty much anything. It fills gaps. It makes seals. It waterproofs electrical connections. No poisonous solvents. Almost instant results. Only downsides are you need that dumb gun and you need an outlet and you have to wait for it to heat up. 

For insanely quick repairs, keep a few quality high temp mini glue sticks together with a cigarette lighter. Warm the end of the glue stick up with the flame and use it to apply the glue. You'll be done and have all your tools put away in under 3 minutes.


----------



## lenaitch

Drachenfire said:


> Trying to move wet snow with a walk behind snow blower can be problem sometimes.
> 
> Before starting, spray the chute with some cooking spray and that snow will fly a lot better. Keep the can handy and reapply as needed.
> 
> Some people suggest using WD-40. I do not like this idea as I normally blow the snow onto my lawn and as such do not want petroleum products to kill it or get into the soil.



Just saw this. Do you end up with a lawn full of woodland critters with high cholesterol? :biggrin2:
(Just kidding - I've done this once or twice.). I've heard of people using a spray wax on the chute and impeller cavity. I tried waxing my satellite dish to keep wet snow from sticking - didn't do much.


----------



## Yodaman

I use wax for several lube jobs. I don't have it in a spray can, just keep several pcs of old stick candles around. A couple uses that come to mind: I might scrape a large screw with the wax to reduce install torque required. I periodically rub down my table saw top and fence and planer beds with wax. Also helps with circular saw and other bases that slide.


----------



## Drachenfire

Yodaman said:


> I use wax for several lube jobs. I don't have it in a spray can, just keep several pcs of old stick candles around. A couple uses that come to mind: I might scrape a large screw with the wax to reduce install torque required. I periodically rub down my table saw top and fence and planer beds with wax. Also helps with circular saw and other bases that slide.


You are correct about the saw tops and fences.

I use Johnson Paste Wax on the cast iron table saw, scroll saw and drill press top. It helps prevent rust as well as makes things easier to slide. I also use it on the underside and runners of my cross-cut sled to make it slide easier.


----------



## huesmann

mathmonger said:


> Hot glue is awesome. It sticks to pretty much anything. It fills gaps. It makes seals. It waterproofs electrical connections. No poisonous solvents. Almost instant results. Only downsides are you need that dumb gun and you need an outlet and you have to wait for it to heat up.
> 
> For insanely quick repairs, keep a few quality high temp mini glue sticks together with a cigarette lighter. Warm the end of the glue stick up with the flame and use it to apply the glue. You'll be done and have all your tools put away in under 3 minutes.


It doesn't seem to handle frequent flexure very well though, IME.


----------



## Drachenfire

YouTube has a plethora of videos on hot glue uses and hacks. Some of them are quite creative and ingenious.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> You are correct about the saw tops and fences.
> 
> I use Johnson Paste Wax on the cast iron table saw, scroll saw and drill press top. It helps prevent rust as well as makes things easier to slide. I also use it on the underside and runners of my cross-cut sled to make it slide easier.


I paste wax the runners on my tile wetsaw as well, keeps them dirt free, and they don't bind when cutting tiles, bricks and stonework. 


ED


----------



## HomeSimple

This is fantastic! Thanks to DIYchat community for all of this insight!


----------



## Stephbaker

Drachenfire said:


> YouTube has a plethora of videos on hot glue uses and hacks. Some of them are quite creative and ingenious.


Oh gosh hot glue can mess up so fast :crying:! Youtube was a lifesaver then!


----------



## lisa85goss

Simple DIY Tips can help you fast become the handyman that your household needs.
It can get very expensive having to call out a plumber every time you spring a leak, then a tiler to replace the water damaged tiles from the leak. By the way thanks everyone for your tips and contribution.


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## Drachenfire

When using corded power tools, especially saws, always be sure of where the power and extension cord is.

This prevents accidentally cutting the cord, risking a shock, or the cord getting hung up causing a dangerous situation.

This may sound like a no-brainer but it is surprising how many people will accidentally cut the power cord of the tool because of negligence or inattention.


----------



## mathmonger

Hot glue CAN work outdoors. But the surfaces must be dry and warm. If the surface is too cold, the glue sets up instantly and doesn't stay "wet" long enough to penetrate. Warm the surface with a torch and you can make a strong bond. One big dot of hot glue works better than several small ones because it retains the heat longer. Some glues can handle a little moisture - some even need moisture to cure. Hot glue will not stick at all to anything wet. You can even use water to mask areas that you don't want glue on. 

Sent from my SM-J337P using Tapatalk


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## SeniorSitizen

Nealtw said:


> Latex works pretty good too.


reminds me too much of another synthetic application.:vs_laugh:


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

Drachenfire said:


> When using corded power tools, especially saws, always be sure of where the power and extension cord is.
> 
> This prevents accidentally cutting the cord, risking a shock, or the cord getting hung up causing a dangerous situation.
> 
> This may sound like a no-brainer but it is surprising how many people will accidentally cut the power cord of the tool because of negligence or inattention.



GUILTY......:sad:

(And when you are grinding out a sink install in granite and pull the chord out of the wall and put down the grinder to plug it back in.....make sure you take it off lock....:sad

EDIT: Goes for a belt sander also....:sad:


----------



## Drachenfire

Nealtw said:


> Latex works pretty good too.


I am partial to Nitrile gloves which are more impervious to most solvents.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> When using corded power tools, especially saws, always be sure of where the power and extension cord is.
> 
> This prevents accidentally cutting the cord, risking a shock, or the cord getting hung up causing a dangerous situation.
> 
> This may sound like a no-brainer but it is surprising how many people will accidentally cut the power cord of the tool because of negligence or inattention.


In most applications I prefer the cord over my shoulder.


----------



## Drachenfire

SeniorSitizen said:


> In most applications I prefer the cord over my shoulder.


Another method is to clip a spring-loaded carabiner to the back loop of your pants. When ready to cut, slip the cord onto carabiner.


----------



## huesmann

I have chewed up an extension cord with my hedge trimmer before...


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

I sometimes think the only chord I haven't cut ....is on my cordless tools...haven't gotten the charger yet either.


----------



## mathmonger

Installing a doorknob takes three hands: one to line up the screw, one to hold the screwdriver, and one to hold the knob. Try putting a strip of painter's tape over the back of the knob. That will give you something to push against while you get the screws started and you won't push the back of the knob off the shaft and onto the floor six times.


----------



## Yodaman

Look at what you are doing! Sounds easy enough, but when running loud obnoxious power tools its just instinct to slightly turn your head away. 

Of course you have your safety glasses on, goes without saying. But they work best when facing directly into the source of whatever is flying around. When you slightly turn your head you start opening up gaps underneath or to the side of the glasses making it easier to catch something in your eye.


Trust your glasses and look directly into the cut zone.


----------



## Drachenfire

If someone has already posted this tip, I apologize.

When using paper templates on wood, we often rely on spray adhesive, carpet or some other double-sided tape. Sometimes these can be very difficult to remove after cutting out the part.

Here is an easier method.

Before applying the template, cover the work-piece with painters tape. Now you can use spray adhesive or double-sided tape to apply the template to the painters tape. 

Once the cutting is completed, peel off the painters tape which will take the remnants of the template with it. Because of its low tackiness, the painters tape will easily peel right off and leave little if any residue that will need to be cleaned.


----------



## mathmonger

Jumper wire. Pierce the seal in a tube of caulk. Press the tiny reset button on an electronic gadget. Unlock a bedroom door. Clean the lint out of your phone's charging port. Hold papers together. Unclog a nozzle. A paperclip is a handy tool, but you can never find one when you need it. I keep one on my keychain. With my multi-tool I can even cut it or put a little hook on it. I also carry a safety pin, a little binder clip, and a mini carabiner - but the lowly paperclip is the one I reach for every day. 

Sent from my SM-J337P using Tapatalk


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## Drachenfire

Often when you have a specialized drill bit like the ones that come with pocket hole jigs, they do not come with a case or sleeve or the plastic in the enclosed case is so flimsy it falls apart in no time.

A quick sleeve can be made with nothing more than a paper towel or toilet paper tube and some gorilla tape.

Cut a couple of pieces of gorilla tape about an inch long and have them ready. Cut the tube down its length and wrap it around the drill bit. Depending on the size of the bit, you can probably get 2 or three layers around it. Make sure the bit is snug in the tube so the friction retains it and secure it with the two pieces of the tape then wrap the whole tube in a layer of gorilla tape. You can cut the tube to expose about an inch of the shaft of the bit so you have something to grab when pulling it out of the sleeve. 

There you go, a cheap, easy effective bit sleeve.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

When ripping with a table saw it's inviting to watch how well that blade is cutting on that powerful saw we bought, especially if it's new or newly sharpened. That blade is going to do its best whether we watch it cut or not, so with your eyes try concentrating on keeping the material against the rip fence instead to prevent kick back.

I've been guilty of watching the blade cut, have you?


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Often when you have a specialized drill bit like the ones that come with pocket hole jigs, they do not come with a case or sleeve or the plastic in the enclosed case is so flimsy it falls apart in no time.
> 
> A quick sleeve can be made with nothing more than a paper towel or toilet paper tube and some gorilla tape.
> 
> Cut a couple of pieces of gorilla tape about an inch long and have them ready. Cut the tube down its length and wrap it around the drill bit. Depending on the size of the bit, you can probably get 2 or three layers around it. Make sure the bit is snug in the tube so the friction retains it and secure it with the two pieces of the tape then wrap the whole tube in a layer of gorilla tape. You can cut the tube to expose about an inch of the shaft of the bit so you have something to grab when pulling it out of the sleeve.
> 
> There you go, a cheap, easy effective bit sleeve.


Interesting, I buy bits in a clamshell case, and when the last one breaks, I toss the broken bit, keep the clamshell, and use it as a storage holder for those one of a kind bits. 

And buy a new kit with all new bits, usually the new kit is here long before the last bit is broken in the old shell. 

One can also take a 3" piece of PVC, fill it with 2" pieces of plastic water tubing from the refrigerator hook up, all these little holes act as dividers for the small bits to reside in, use a pipe cap on each end to contain them. 

For bigger bits, use a bigger diameter PVC, and get the smallest PVC to fill it with.


ED


----------



## ron45

Two fer one.

A tip and what I'm listening to.

When putting down T&G hardwood flooring and the last row of 3/4" plywood subfloor doesn't have it's T&G to keep it stable.
Grab your trusty pocket hole jig and put some screws down the seam every 3-4"


----------



## Drachenfire

Here is a tip that will help you get the hang of hand planing while building a workbench top at the same time.

After the glue-up is dry, flip the piece so it is bottom-side up. Set your plane shallow and take a few passes advancing the iron until you begin getting shavings. Now you can experiment with how far you need to extend the iron to get a flat surface. 

Since you are doing this on the bottom which no one will see and you will not be using, any mistakes you make will not be seen. 

Once you are getting good shavings and a smooth surface and are comfortable with the process, you are ready to flip to the good side.


----------



## Old Thomas

If I want shiny copper sheet to look old with patina, I piss on it.


----------



## huesmann

Remind me to never have any copper work done by Old Thomas.


----------



## Yodaman

huesmann said:


> Remind me to never have any copper work done by Old Thomas.


Now that's a good tip!


----------



## Drachenfire

Next time you need 3" bolt-on swivel casters, before going to the big box stores and plunking down $8-$11 per caster, head over to Harbor Freight (if you have one nearby) and buy one of their 1000 Lb. capacity hardwood dolly for $11. For that price you get *four *3-inch swivel casters.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Next time you need 3" bolt-on swivel casters, before going to the big box stores and plunking down $8-$11 per caster, head over to Harbor Freight (if you have one nearby) and buy one of their 1000 Lb. capacity hardwood dolly for $11. For that price you get *four *3-inch swivel casters.


Just shop e-bay, you can get the same quality as HF has, for even less $.


ED


----------



## SeniorSitizen

de-nagorg said:


> Just shop e-bay, you can get the same quality as HF has, for even less $.
> 
> 
> ED


 That ebay seller must have a shipping cost way, way, way less that I pay.
To mail 3 lbs. of pecans 400 miles the cost was $10. 58.:vs_mad:


----------



## de-nagorg

SeniorSitizen said:


> That ebay seller must have a shipping cost way, way, way less that I pay.
> To mail 3 lbs. of pecans 400 miles the cost was $10. 58.:vs_mad:


You are correct, many of them have a shipping contract with (shipper of your choice), for nearly nothing, if enough volume is generated. 

ED


----------



## Contra

wow, some of these tips are great!


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

Drachenfire said:


> Next time you need 3" bolt-on swivel casters, before going to the big box stores and plunking down $8-$11 per caster, head over to Harbor Freight (if you have one nearby) and buy one of their 1000 Lb. capacity hardwood dolly for $11. For that price you get *four *3-inch swivel casters.


When matching some individual wood or trim pieces, I sometimes use floor and decore.

They let you take a sample for $5-10 (can't remember) and you an excellent chance of finding the correct wood/grain/stain/finish you want in their extensive selection.

(In the older days before led shoplights, when a ballast would go out in my shop lights....it was cheaper to buy the whole light at a big box store $10 verse a ballast at 16-18)....Crazy????????


----------



## ktkelly

Not sure if I posted this before but:


To keep a pot of boiling water from boiling over (like when doing spaghetti), use a simple piece of wood dowel across the bowl.


----------



## ServiceCall

ktkelly said:


> Not sure if I posted this before but:
> 
> 
> To keep a pot of boiling water from boiling over (like when doing spaghetti), use a simple piece of wood dowel across the bowl.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 584539




How does that work??


----------



## mathmonger

Nitrile coated gloves. They're great. They come in a 10 pack for $10. But don't ya hate when you can only find 3 left hands? Roll them up like a pair of socks to make neat matching pairs.


----------



## Contra

ServiceCall said:


> How does that work??


sounds like an old wives tale.


----------



## rjniles

Contra said:


> sounds like an old wives tale.


I use a wooden spoon and it does work.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk


----------



## Drachenfire

Contra said:


> sounds like an old wives tale.





rjniles said:


> I use a wooden spoon and it does work.
> 
> Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk



I too have used this method to prevent boil over and it does work.

As to how it works, my theory is that since wood is not a good conductor of heat, it remains at a lower temperature than the boiling water. Ergo, when the water comes in contact with it, it lowers the water temperature slightly, just enough to prevent boil over.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> I too have used this method to prevent boil over and it does work.
> 
> As to how it works, my theory is that since wood is not a good conductor of heat, it remains at a lower temperature than the boiling water. Ergo, when the water comes in contact with it, it lowers the water temperature slightly, just enough to prevent boil over.


You are correct, the Physics sub class on Thermodynamics teaches that property.

The colder wood, bursts the bubbles that cause boil over.


ED


----------



## SeniorSitizen

So does this conclude that a half dozen spoons will be approximately 5 times more effective than one?:biggrin2:


----------



## Drachenfire

de-nagorg said:


> You are correct, the Physics sub class on Thermodynamics teaches that property.
> 
> The colder wood, bursts the bubbles that cause boil over.
> 
> 
> ED


I never took physics in school. It certainly feels good to know that even at my age my gray matter is still somewhat functioning... :vs_laugh:


----------



## Contra

lol, ok I gotta try this...not to buy a wooden spoon.


----------



## lenaitch

Drachenfire said:


> I too have used this method to prevent boil over and it does work.
> 
> As to how it works, my theory is that since wood is not a good conductor of heat, it remains at a lower temperature than the boiling water. Ergo, when the water comes in contact with it, it lowers the water temperature slightly, just enough to prevent boil over.



We've done it for years. The other advantage is that wooden spoons are straight so they will rest across the top of the pot. There's no magic in it being a spoon - I suppose you could just use a stick.


----------



## ktkelly

ServiceCall said:


> How does that work??





Like I would know that answer. :biggrin2:


----------



## SeniorSitizen

I just heard from a relative our Scottish grandmother knew this trick about a century ago. The story goes that she didn't have a wooden spoon so she made grandpa give up his wooden leg if he wanted anything to eat.


If you believe this I have some ocean front property for sale in AZ.


----------



## Drachenfire

If you ever accidentally over-salt a pot of soup or stew, add a little lemon juice a teaspoon at a time until the saltiness has been reduced to taste.

I can attest this works from personal experience.


----------



## Contra

I once hear broken ice still melts in the sun.


----------



## Drachenfire

Many of us have a plethora of dowel scraps, leftover molding pieces and other wood strips which are great for small projects. However they tend to get buried in the scrap bin where they are often forgotten.

Go to a carpet store and ask for their empty heavy duty cardboard tubes on which carpet is rolled. They will usually give these away for the asking.

Cut the tube down into sections any length you need, bundle them together with duct tape, gorilla tape or para-cord and stand them on end. 

Now you can organize your scraps however you like, know what you have at a glance and easily retrieve what you need.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

To add to Drachen's tip, if you girls can't get a 12 ft. tube in your 58 Buick station wagon :biggrin2: and would rather not take your chain saw to cut tubes to length, occasionally a news print shop will have partial rolls of print for cheap. This one harboring pole saw, broom and brush still has handy news print paper useful for many occasions like packing, covering, protecting etc. How well they stand alone depends how much paper remains, no surprise there. I sure wish we'd known about those when I was a kid because they would have never stopped at the house. Just think; the Kansas City Star plain and white.


----------



## jack pablo

Tip of the day
Always speaks the truth


----------



## de-nagorg

The tubes posts rattled a memory out of my cranium.

Long ago, I was waiting in the parking lot of a local cartography studio for the receptionist to get her lunch break. 

We had a standing lunch date daily. I had not thought about her for many years, THANKS.

While waiting, I scanned over to their dumpster, and therein was a dozen heavy cardboard tubes, 4" X 4' most with caps even. 

I am not averse to "dumpster dive", if the object is useful, or valuable, so I took those tubes and put them in the back of my truck. 

She came out, looked in my truck, got in, and said " what are you going to do with those map tubes?"

I began listing their uses, Storage for dowels, storage for shovels, rakes, hoes, etc.


even "N" beaters. :biggrin2:


There are cardboard tubes in lots of places, for your obtaining, just ask.


ED 

I still have some of them out in the shed, unused.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Those that have lawns may be looking and hoping for early green. If you have equipment such as a lawn tractor with a battery for cranking, a couple of sturdy C clamps can be mighty handy. *1)* use those in lieu of those old fashioned bolts to connect the cables, no tools necessary and *2)* they are real handy as handles to carry the battery and they are always there where they're needed.


If these don't look safe to use on your equipment please don't. As always disconnect the negative first and connect the negative last.


----------



## Drachenfire

Many of us use paste wax for such things as protecting the steel on things like wood plane soles, tool tops and lubricating wood jigs like crosscut sleds.

To improve the lubricity of the wax, scoop a tablespoon or two into a small container, add a few drops of boiled linseed oil and mix thoroughly. Continue adding oil until the mixture is the consistency of room temperature butter.

I have used this concoction on my cross-cut sled. It has made a vast improvement on how easily is slides. The mixture is also easier to spread on tool surfaces than straight wax.


----------



## Yodaman

Drachenfire said:


> Next time you need 3" bolt-on swivel casters, before going to the big box stores and plunking down $8-$11 per caster, head over to Harbor Freight (if you have one nearby) and buy one of their 1000 Lb. capacity hardwood dolly for $11. For that price you get *four *3-inch swivel casters.


Harbor Freight just sent me a coupon for these at $7.99 ea. 4 max per person. Sweet.............(16) 3" swivel casters at $2 each!


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Yodaman said:


> Harbor Freight just sent me a coupon for these at $7.99 ea. 4 max per person. Sweet.............(16) 3" swivel casters at $2 each!


 DAMMIT, and to think I worked my butt off building mine using re-purposed office chair casters and wood fence cut offs. OH WELL, mine doesn't have much chance of a virus transfer.:vs_laugh:
BTW, we're getting a new H F outlet store soon.


----------



## ktkelly

de-nagorg said:


> There are cardboard tubes in lots of places, for your obtaining, just ask.
> 
> 
> ED





Tubes for everything!




Those cardboard tubes your toilet paper come on have a good afterlife.


I use them to store extension cords.


Those longer tubes from paper towels and be used for heavier, or longer, extension cords


All the cords are either lined up neatly in a drawer, or hanging on the peg board in the shop.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

i was watching a gardening show that had some actual gardening tips and 0.0 commercials. Being spring gardening is upon us, in the N. hemi, one tip was how to make paper seed starter container of news print. Then this gal did one i could possibly do. She cut T Tissue cardboard tubes in half packed with potting soil to plant seeds in. Sure beats plastic when the container can be planted.


I need to do something as my last years crop of peppers and tomatoes was a disaster. First complete failure in about 40 years. I'm serious, i do believe the miracle grow potting soil i purchased had a Nematode infestation.


----------



## de-nagorg

I used to use those little Dixie Cups made for the old bathroom dispenser of long ago, that dispensed the little paper cup. 

They were unwaxed, and degradable, plant your seed, get it started, when the seedling was big enough, place it in your garden.


ED


----------



## chrisjackson123

2 Simple DIY Home Maintenance Tips & Ideas

1. Toilets
Water leaking from your toilet tank will not only cost you money when it comes to your utility bill, but it can also cause water damage to your bathroom floor and premature wear of your toilet’s internal workings. To find out whether your toilet tank is leaking, add some red food coloring to the water in the tank. Come back in about an hour and see if the water in the bowl is pink. If it is, you have a leak.

2. Plumbing
In order to keep water flowing freely through your pipes, keep the following things in mind:

Accumulating fats and oils are the main cause for clogs, so never pour fats or other oils down your drains. This includes oils that are not solid at room temperature. If you accidentally spill oils or fats down the drain, run hot water down your drain along with a healthy serving of dishwashing liquid. The soap will emulsify the fat or oil and move it on down the pipe, preventing a clog.
Get a hair strainer for the bathtub drain. If fats and oils are the main source of clogs in the kitchen, hair is the primary culprit in the bathroom. If you have a strainer, make sure that you remove any accumulated hair from it following each shower. This will reduce the amount of hair that finds its way through the strainer and into your plumbing.
Skip the Drano. Though the acids it contains can help unclog a drain, they also cause significant damage to your plumbing, including premature leaking. This can lead to costly repairs later on. If your bathtub or toilet is completely clogged, use a small drain snake – which you can purchase at any hardware outlet – to pull the offending clog to the surface. If your kitchen sink is clogged, try plunging it before trying to snake the drain. If you cannot remove the clog using a drain snake, call a professional.

I hope it helps! Keep posting everyone


----------



## Drachenfire

Many of us do not have the room to put in a dedicated miter saw station. Turns out you do not really need one.

So, to help me when I have to cut long pieces I made this simple block out of some scrap plywood in about 30-40 minutes. (I made this one about 20 minutes ago)

It is exactly the height of the miter saw table. I can place it anywhere along my workbench depending on the length of the piece I am working with and clamp it in place.

I have an idea to implement a flip up stop block for when I need multiple pieces of the same length.


----------



## chrisjackson123

Tip of the day:

Wear a face shield.
Sure, you might not need a face shield for 90% of DIY from a protection standpoint; glasses and a dust mask suffice for, say, sanding drywall overhead or pressure washing. But a face shield—all of $8—keeps dust off your face in these situations. It makes the uncomfortable and icky barely noticeable, and the impossible (like spraying deck stripper overhead, for example) eminently doable.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Sometimes one can't get too much protection on when mowing dirty winter leaves etc. The wife said i looked like a Sultan but that's ok for a short while. When sandblasting i also wear a cycle helmet.


----------



## Drachenfire

SeniorSitizen said:


> Sometimes one can't get too much protection on when mowing dirty winter leaves etc. The wife said i looked like a Sultan but that's ok for a short while. When sandblasting i also wear a cycle helmet.


Why I am suddenly hearing Ray Stevens's 1962 song "Ahab the Arab"...?


----------



## Drachenfire

When using pipe clamps on wood projects, slide a piece of PVC on the pipe to avoid denting or marking the wood.


----------



## Drachenfire

If your wood glue gets to thick to use, Elmer's recommends mixing in a drop or two of vinegar.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> If your wood glue gets to thick to use, Elmer's recommends mixing in a drop or two of vinegar.


If i were a Elmer's salesman, i would have said you aren't building nearly enough wood projects to keep your glue fresh.:vs_laugh:


----------



## Yodaman

How NOT to use your ladder(s)


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Yodaman said:


> How NOT to use your ladder(s)


It looks as if he has borrowed every ladder in the neighborhood.


----------



## Drachenfire

No brains but he has cahones..., I will give him that...


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> No brains but he has cahones..., I will give him that...


Maybe i missed it but i don't recall anyone ever saying the purpose of marijuana was to enhance mental capacity.:vs_laugh:


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> No brains but he has cahones..., I will give him that...


Just like BUBBA, when he says " hold my beer, and watch this". 

Don't try this anywhere.


ED


----------



## Drachenfire

Standoffs are a convenient thing to have when applying finish to projects. 

If you do not have have any on hand, they can be easily made. 

Drive 2-in. drywall screws through 2-in. x 2-in. x 3/4-in pieces of wood then dull the points of the screws with a file to minimize dimpling the work-piece.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

Drachenfire said:


> Standoffs are a convenient thing to have when applying finish to projects.
> 
> If you do not have have any on hand, they can be easily made.
> 
> Drive 2-in. drywall screws through 2-in. x 2-in. x 3/4-in pieces of wood then dull the points of the screws with a file to minimize dimpling the work-piece.


Good idea.....Better than bouncing the ladder around when using the 3/4 standard ladder standoffs.:smile:


----------



## Drachenfire

When I bought my Silverado, I did not realize the difficulties of washing a 4x4 most notably the roof and middle of the hood area near the windshield.

At first I used a step stool, but it did not help much. 

One day I was working in my garage and my eyes fell on the equipment I used to wash my bay windows and the proverbial light-bulb came on.

The next time I washed my truck, I used the window washer microfiber pad on the extension pole and it worked perfectly for reaching all areas of the roof, hood and tonneau cover with ease.

All the supplies are available at Lowe's.

Extension pole.










13" microfiber pad










Squeegee bucket


----------



## Drachenfire

Often when using a hole saw, the wood gets burned because the blade heats up before the cut is completed.

To keep this from happening, stuff the hole saw with a moist rag. Be sure to leave room for the depth of the piece of wood you’re cutting. When you’re finished, dry off the blade to prevent rust.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Often when using a hole saw, the wood gets burned because the blade heats up before the cut is completed.
> 
> To keep this from happening, stuff the hole saw with a moist rag. Be sure to leave room for the depth of the piece of wood you’re cutting. When you’re finished, dry off the blade to prevent rust.


A damp sponge, cut with the hole saw, to fit perfect inside.

Then stored with the hole saw, for later usage.


ED


----------



## emma olivia

Car Repair | Top Gear Philippines


----------



## SeniorSitizen

emma olivia said:


> Car Repair | Top Gear Philippines


Is the Draw Bridge safe?


----------



## Drachenfire

Roller stands are great when you do not have an out-feed table.










It does get a little frustrating finding the right height adjustment each time you have to set it up. To make this easier, after setting it to the correct height for a particular tool, mark a line at that spot with a permanent marker. On the opposite side of the mark, indicate the tool it corresponds to, for example, TS for table saw or DP for drill press.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

I have 2 table saws that are nearly identical but they have different stands of slightly different height. I'd like to put tape on the stand to label for each saw so i ask what tape would be best so it could be removed if necessary after a period of time. From experience - -_Masking tape _- -can be a bear to remove after aging and / or exposed to certain conditions.


----------



## de-nagorg

SeniorSitizen said:


> I have 2 table saws that are nearly identical but they have different stands of slightly different height. I'd like to put tape on the stand to label for each saw so i ask what tape would be best so it could be removed if necessary after a period of time. From experience - -_Masking tape _- -can be a bear to remove after aging and / or exposed to certain conditions.


There is a tape in the first-aid section of the store.

3M micropore bandage tape. I use the 1" wide tape for a lot of things other than bandages.

It is White, paper tape with an easily removed adhesive. 


ED


----------



## Drachenfire

SeniorSitizen said:


> I'd like to put tape on the stand to label for each saw so i ask what tape would be best so it could be removed if necessary after a period of time.


In such a situation, I would just engrave the mark with a Dremel, etching/engraving pen or other similar tool.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> In such a situation, I would just engrave the mark with a Dremel, etching/engraving pen or other similar tool.


 I change my mind waaayyy toooo often for permanent labels. :vs_laugh:
But i bet i use your tip.
_thanks
_


----------



## Drachenfire

SeniorSitizen said:


> I change my mind waaayyy toooo often for permanent labels. :vs_laugh:
> But i bet i use your tip.
> _thanks
> _


Then the permanent marker is your best option. Mark when you need it, wipe it off with a little alcohol or mineral spirits when you don't. No need to worry about tape residue.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> Then the permanent marker is your best option. Mark when you need it, wipe it off with a little alcohol or mineral spirits when you don't. No need to worry about tape residue.


I use felt tip pens frequently so i don't need to go find my magnifier and LED head lamp.


----------



## Yodaman

Some folks should just stay on the ground


----------



## SeniorSitizen

I like it. Another hold my beer and watch this and diminishes the odds of adding to that pool we don't need any more of.


----------



## Drachenfire

When trying to plane small pieces it is difficult to clamp them in a vice.

Instead, flip a hand plane upside down and clamp it in the bench vise and run the work-piece over it. 

Remember, you are dealing with a very sharp exposed blade so be very careful doing this.


----------



## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> When trying to plane small pieces it is difficult to clamp them in a vice.
> 
> Instead, flip a hand plane upside down and clamp it in the bench vise and run the work-piece over it.
> 
> Remember, you are dealing with a very sharp exposed blade so be very careful doing this.


 Been there dun that and sometimes i swear i do better work.




EDIT: EDIT:


----------



## Alexx005

Rasha said:


> For potted plants, I put window screen over the drainage holes, then I pile on sea shells (free from the beach!) then I fill with potting mix. This keeps the dirt in but provides good drainage for the plant.


That's a quite different hack. I will try out that one.


----------



## richardbowen

nice tips very helpful. Alabama roofing contractor


----------



## Yodaman




----------



## SeniorSitizen

A receptionist hand sanitizing tip.


Exiting the office after a Dr check up i ask the receptionist if there was hand sanitizer available and she provided a useful tip after advising where the station was. 








Place the sanitizer in the palm of your hand, open the knobed door 






with the other hand. After exiting that door sanitize your hands. The remainder of the doors from the building were auto or push open and we can handle that.












Edit: Edit:


----------



## huesmann

You could wait til you're outside to sanitize your hands, although it's possible it could have all evaporated by that time!


----------



## SeniorSitizen

huesmann said:


> You could wait til you're outside to sanitize your hands, although it's possible it could have all evaporated by that time!


Have you always had a problem following instructions?:biggrin2:


----------



## de-nagorg

SeniorSitizen said:


> Have you always had a problem following instructions?:biggrin2:


You did see their address.

We all know D.C. ers are a different people.:devil3::devil3:

ED


----------



## Nealtw

Posts set in the ground in concrete will rot. 

Make them easy to change out.


----------



## Drachenfire

Dents in wood surfaces can be annoying. Here is a method to remove them.

Soak a washcloth in water and ring it out a bit so it’s not sopping wet. Put the damp washcloth on the affected area. With the iron on its highest setting, place it on the damp washcloth over the affected area, and make small movements back and forth and in circles. Press down firmly and continue until your wash cloth is dry. At this point, the wood fibers are absorbing the water and should expand back to where they were originally. If needed, repeat this process until the dents rise up flush with the rest of the material.


----------



## ghengisdhad

never ever, ever, hook hot water to your toilet.


----------



## Fix'n it

don't eat yellow snow .


----------



## Nealtw




----------



## Fix'n it

:surprise:





:vs_laugh:


----------



## ktownskier

If you are at the hospital, ask for a urinal and take it with you. Leave it in your vehicle (obviously after you have cleaned it if you have used it) so that if you are stuck in traffic and, well, have to go, you have one handy. 

And, for a hallowe'en trick, provided you have an unused one, is to make a urine colored cocktail and then drink from it. And see how many people you can gross out. 

My nurse at my angioplasty gave me two clean urinals and a specimen bag. I plan on giving my brother a cocktail in the urinal and a maduro wrapper cigar in the specimen bag. 

And yes, I am over 60 years old.


----------



## de-nagorg

This has turned a little gross.

When in the hospital, get an apple juice for breakfast.

Put it in the specimen cup for urine.

Wait for the nurse to come in, and when she picks up the cup, and says,

" A little cloudy today."

Grab the cup, and say, " Well let me run it through again."

And drink it.:devil3:

ED


----------



## Fix'n it

:vs_laugh:


----------



## Daneal

forcedreno2012 said:


> Hear are a few from my journey specifically for people using this site......
> 
> LISTEN to those that have travelled the path before you (sometimes many times) You may be told the opposite of what you want to hear but 99% of the time the people here know what they are doing. The advice given here is often given from years of experience and at no charge and is priceless. The people here are willing to help and although you might not like the answer there is a REASON you are being given it.
> 
> Doing it yourself does not always save money.....sometimes you need to step back and get a professional in to do some work. Refusing to accept you are out of your league will cost you in the long run, and not just money but also in dangerous conditions for you and your family. Does not mean you are a failure and lots of times if they understand the project and what you are dealing with they will offer advice and guide you on your journey. Know when its time to get a professional in and if you are not sure ASK.
> 
> Pictures are worth a 1000 words. If you can, post a picture of your issue as sometimes what you are describing is the opposite of what people are thinking.
> 
> Search is your friend...most of the time the question you have asked has been asked before with really good information in the answers.
> 
> The most important THINK SAFETY!!.....your life is not worth a bandaid fix or a jerry rig. If you have family and you are doing DIY - YOU are responsible for your work!! Take the time to understand what you are doing and do it RIGHT not quick. Your family might depend on it.
> 
> WEAR YOUR DAM SAFETY GEAR and always test wiring before playing with electrickery!!
> 
> Robyn


:vs_clap:Well saying


----------



## Drachenfire

Save those expired credit, AAA and used up money cards. They come in handy for small glue-up projects.

Using pinking shears, snip along the wide edge of the card. The now serrated edge spreads the glue like a serrated trowel spreads mastic on floors. And, because the cards are plastic, the wood glues easily washes off them.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Save those expired credit, AAA and used up money cards. They come in handy for small glue-up projects.
> 
> Using pinking shears, snip along the wide edge of the card. The now serrated edge spreads the glue like a serrated trowel spreads mastic on floors. And, because the cards are plastic, the wood glues easily washes off them.


Been doing that for years, it works great.

Good tip.


ED


----------



## Fix'n it

Drachenfire said:


> Save those expired credit, AAA and used up money cards.


get cards free at walmort or whatever = gift cards.


----------



## ktownskier

AzCarpet said:


> Cheep fire starter: Use old gas and styrofoam to get your burn pit going. lots of styrofoam in a little gas makes a sticky past that will not go out easily.
> Caution- use sparingly only when you can't get your wet stuff to start and also remember something that's sticky that burns for 4 to 5 min isn't good to play with.


I'll bet you love the smell in the morning. 

You have pretty much made napalm. 

And yes, it is very sticky.


----------



## Nik333

de-nagorg said:


> This has turned a little gross.
> 
> When in the hospital, get an apple juice for breakfast.
> 
> Put it in the specimen cup for urine.
> 
> Wait for the nurse to come in, and when she picks up the cup, and says,
> 
> " A little cloudy today."
> 
> Grab the cup, and say, " Well let me run it through again."
> 
> And drink it.:devil3:
> 
> ED



Old, old, old prank!


----------



## de-nagorg

Nik333 said:


> Old, old, old prank!


But all the young nurses under 30, have not been pranked by it YET. :devil3:



ED


----------



## SeniorSitizen

de-nagorg said:


> But all the young nurses under 30, have not been pranked by it YET. :devil3:
> 
> 
> ED





Just imagine, or possibly most know, how many times / day an old man could pull that prank on a green nurses. Every 30 minutes minimum.:biggrin2:
Are you sure this is not the joke section?


Edit: Edit:


----------



## Drachenfire

Do not throw out those old vinyl roller shades, especially the heavy blackout ones. They are perfect in the shop for other purposes.










Place them under glue-ups. It protects the workbench or table-saw top, if that is what you use, from drips.

They are also a great drop cloth on the bench when painting or staining small projects.

When you are done and the drips are dry, just roll it up until the next project.


----------



## Drachenfire

Sometimes we do not have enough room to store a hose on a hose reel and so tend to just roll the hose and hang it on a hook. 

The problem is that it is almost impossible to get all the residual water out of the hose so it often drips on the floor.

To prevent this, after coiling the hose and before hanging it up simply screw the two ends together thereby preventing the any water from dripping out.


----------



## ktownskier

Drachenfire said:


> Sometimes we do not have enough room to store a hose on a hose reel and so tend to just roll the hose and hang it on a hook.
> 
> The problem is that it is almost impossible to get all the residual water out of the hose so it often drips on the floor.
> 
> To prevent this, after coiling the hose and before hanging it up simply screw the two ends together thereby preventing the any water from dripping out.


As an adjunct to this, I try and pull them over the back of a chair, fence railing or similar object. As long as you pull it a bit slower, it should help get most of the water out, and with @Drachenfire's wonderful tip, drippage should be minimal.


----------



## Drachenfire

Many of us keep a small tool kit in our vehicles. But often, the one thing missing from that kit is an emergency escape tool.










This tool allows you to cut through seat belts and break vehicle windows in the event of an emergency.

Unlike your other tools, this one should be kept where it is readily accessible such as the glove box or center console.

At less than $15 for a set of two, it is cheap insurance against potentially being trapped in a burning or sinking vehicle.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Many of us keep a small tool kit in our vehicles. But often, the one thing missing from that kit is an emergency escape tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool allows you to cut through seat belts and break vehicle windows in the event of an emergency.
> 
> Unlike your other tools, this one should be kept where it is readily accessible such as the glove box or center console.
> 
> At less than $15 for a set of two, it is cheap insurance against potentially being trapped in a burning or sinking vehicle.


Practicing SANE DEFENSIVE DRIVING, prevents any need for a gadget like this.

:devil3::devil3:


ED


----------



## Drachenfire

If you should ever find yourself in a vehicle in water, try to roll the windows down as quickly as possible. 

This sounds counter-intuitive

As a car sinks, outside water pressure increases. Depending on the depth, this will make it extremely difficult if not impossible to open the doors or roll down even manual windows.

Rolling down the windows immediately provides quicker egress to swim out. Additionally, with water pressure inside equal to that outside, it will make the door easier to open if needed.

Even power windows can usually be rolled down as soon as the vehicle hits the water before the circuit shorts out.

Opening the windows immediately will often allow you to escape before the car is fully submerged.

If the power window circuit shorts out, this is where the emergency hammer in my previous post comes in.


----------



## Drachenfire

de-nagorg said:


> Practicing SANE DEFENSIVE DRIVING, prevents any need for a gadget like this.
> 
> :devil3::devil3:
> 
> 
> ED


Once can be the safest driver in the world, it does not however guarantee their safety from the myriad of maniacs on the road. 

I can personally attest to this in my thousands of miles driving on some of the nations busiest highways.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Once can be the safest driver in the world, it does not however guarantee their safety from the myriad of maniacs on the road.
> 
> I can personally attest to this in my thousands of miles driving on some of the nations busiest highways.


That is where the DEFENSIVE part comes in. :devil3:

I too sometimes have to avoid those idiots.

Of course as a much younger man, I was one of those idiots myself. 

Did you see the old MYTHBUSTERS episode, where they tested several ways to escape a sinking car?

Their conclusion turned out to be like mine, avoid the scenario if at all possible.

ED


----------



## Drachenfire

de-nagorg said:


> ...avoid the scenario if at all possible.
> 
> ED


That can be said for any kind of accident. Not to sound to philosophical, we can take as many precautions as possible but often times fate has other ideas... :wink:


----------



## Drachenfire

Often we get emails that look like it came from a legit source, the bank, utility company, Amazon, etc. These usually have an alarming subject line like, "Your account is locked" or "Your account has been compromised".

Before opening the email, place your mouse cursor over the recipient but DO NOT click it, a small window will appear showing the senders email. 

You are checking for addresses with a name ending in something like"@zxcyxz.com". It may also be a hotmail, gmail, yahoo or some other free email service in the name, something your bank, utility company or major institution would not likely be using. In some cases it may have your email address spoofed as the sender, i.e. [email protected].

If you see an email with addresses such as these purporting to be from your bank, utility company or other legitimate company, in all probability it is spam or phishing attempt.

For those who do not know, "phishing" is a cybercrime in which the target is contacted by email, telephone or text message by someone posing as a legitimate institution. It is used to lure individuals into providing sensitive data such as personally identifiable information, banking and credit card details, and passwords. This information is then used to access important accounts and can result in identity theft and financial loss.


----------



## Contra

I set up a pump for my camp shower. I ran it to a switch but through a relay. I love to re-purposing things I have laying around. I took some scrap wood, some used and saved wires, and I even used an old switch I had bough a while back for another project I abandoned.
I built this pump (really basic relay system) for a camp propane shower I intend to use with my square drop camper next weekend.
I buy new things from time to time, but DIY and re-purposing is fun for me!


----------



## Drachenfire

Many of us have that jar in which we dump our loose change at the end of the day. It is a good way to save money and can easily net you $200+ yearly.

Another way to do this is using five-dollar-bills. At the end of each week, take out any five-dollar-bills you have in your wallet and put it away.

Admittedly, not everyone has the income to do this, so perhaps you can put away just one five-dollar-bill. This process is a great way to save for a new tool or toy, or you can use it to build up an emergency cash fund. You will be surprised how quickly those fivers add up.

I use this process to help my team at work, most of whom are still young, try to be more financially responsible. I have made it sort of a competition to see who can save the most. I noticed many of them are no longer drinking 4-5 $8 daily lattes anymore.


----------



## Contra

Drachenfire said:


> Many of us have that jar in which we dump our loose change at the end of the day. It is a good way to save money and can easily net you $200+ yearly.
> 
> Another way to do this is using five-dollar-bills. At the end of each week, take out any five-dollar-bills you have in your wallet and put it away.
> 
> Admittedly, not everyone has the income to do this, so perhaps you can put away just one five-dollar-bill. This process is a great way to save for a new tool or toy, or you can use it to build up an emergency cash fund. You will be surprised how quickly those fivers add up.
> 
> I use this process to help my team at work, most of whom are still young, try to be more financially responsible. I have made it sort of a competition to see who can save the most. I noticed many of them are no longer drinking 4-5 $8 daily lattes anymore.


Lol, I'm the only one that contributes to the jar here in the house and my wife seems to think it's her personal piggy bank. 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Many of us have that jar in which we dump our loose change at the end of the day. It is a good way to save money and can easily net you $200+ yearly.
> 
> Another way to do this is using five-dollar-bills. At the end of each week, take out any five-dollar-bills you have in your wallet and put it away.
> 
> Admittedly, not everyone has the income to do this, so perhaps you can put away just one five-dollar-bill. This process is a great way to save for a new tool or toy, or you can use it to build up an emergency cash fund. You will be surprised how quickly those fivers add up.
> 
> I use this process to help my team at work, most of whom are still young, try to be more financially responsible. I have made it sort of a competition to see who can save the most. I noticed many of them are no longer drinking 4-5 $8 daily lattes anymore.



 I use this tactic to accumulate the cash needed to pay my water bill, monthly out of.

I put all fives and ones in an envelope and have the needed cash to pay my water bill every time, and not have to get change at a store before going in to pay for water.

I also have jars of coins dating back to the 70's just sitting around in a dark corner, waiting for my retirement days to arrive. 

I feel like Scrooge Mc-Duck sometimes when I spot the hoard.


ED


----------



## mathmonger

Drachenfire said:


> Many of us keep a small tool kit in our vehicles. But often, the one thing missing from that kit is an emergency escape tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This tool allows you to cut through seat belts and break vehicle windows in the event of an emergency.
> 
> Unlike your other tools, this one should be kept where it is readily accessible such as the glove box or center console.
> 
> At less than $15 for a set of two, it is cheap insurance against potentially being trapped in a burning or sinking vehicle.


I read somewhere that you can rip off your headrest and use the metal spikes to smash the window. Sounds plausible. That's my plan.


----------



## Drachenfire

mathmonger said:


> I read somewhere that you can rip off your headrest and use the metal spikes to smash the window. Sounds plausible. That's my plan.


Have you tried to remove your headrest to ensure it is possible? It will really ruin your day if you go into the drink and as your car is sinking you discover the headrest does not easily come out.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Have you tried to remove your headrest to ensure it is possible? It will really ruin your day if you go into the drink and as your car is sinking you discover the headrest does not easily come out.


Even if it does come out, your day is ruined anyway. 






ED


----------



## geenowalker

Not really a tip, but I found that when I pay someone to paint, the 2 coats (+ 1 primer) still seems to bleed the drywall through (greyish) (Ben Moore marque). When I paint, there is none. Likely because painters just use primer to seal the drywall, and I was applying enough to cover the gray drywall.


----------



## diymyself

Cricket said:


> Great article on ways to repurpose old window screens.
> 5 Things to Do with… Old Window Screens


 also I found a great book that gives a ton of ideas on repurposing and gives some helpful tips on home improvement things especially when were all trying to get them done by ourselves lol.. by the way first time joining the chatroom! there is a lot of helpful tips on here!!


----------



## mathmonger

Want to see inside a wall? Cut a slit and stick your phone halfway in there. Easily patched without tape. 

I dunno if that's a good idea. I saw it in some free magazine. But it has a certain cleverness to it. I had to share.


----------



## Drachenfire

diymyself said:


> also I found a great book that gives a ton of ideas on repurposing and gives some helpful tips on home improvement things especially when were all trying to get them done by ourselves lol.. by the way first time joining the chatroom! there is a lot of helpful tips on here!!


It certainly got a lot of good reviews.



mathmonger said:


> Want to see inside a wall? Cut a slit and stick your phone halfway in there. Easily patched without tape.
> 
> I dunno if that's a good idea. I saw it in some free magazine. But it has a certain cleverness to it. I had to share.


At least it will let you see two of the directions.

A better option is to use a endoscope attachment for cell phones which require a much smaller hole and provides a greater range of viewing.


----------



## mathmonger

Drachenfire said:


> A better option is to use a endoscope attachment for cell phones which require a much smaller hole and provides a greater range of viewing.


I found the image quality to be poor and it spun around and I didn't know which way was up. I was never able to do anything useful with mine.


----------



## Priusron

If your gutters are clogged and you don’t want to climb onto the roof, use your leaf blower and blow up through the downspout. A nice long burst. Get ready to move fast. I used this on my 2 story house and it worked great.


----------



## Fix'n it

Priusron said:


> If your gutters are clogged and you don’t want to climb onto the roof, use your leaf blower and blow up through the downspout. A nice long burst. Get ready to move fast. I used this on my 2 story house and it worked great.


yep. and, get laarger down spouts if you don't have them. i did and it make a difference.


----------



## Drachenfire

When disposing of prescription pill bottles, it is a good idea to remove the labels first. The problem is the adhesive used to affix the label to the bottle often makes it extremely difficult and frustrating to remove them. 

Next time try using a heat gun on a low setting. 

I have found for best results, slowly move the gun over the label until it starts to scorch. Peel a corner, continue to gently pull and whole label should come right off often without leaving residue. For smaller bottles, use a dowel or pliers to hold the bottle so you avoid potentially burning your fingers.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> When disposing of prescription pill bottles, it is a good idea to remove the labels first. The problem is the adhesive used to affix the label to the bottle often makes it extremely difficult and frustrating to remove them.
> 
> Next time try using a heat gun on a low setting.
> 
> I have found for best results, slowly move the gun over the label until it starts to scorch. Peel a corner, continue to gently pull and whole label should come right off often without leaving residue. For smaller bottles, use a dowel or pliers to hold the bottle so you avoid potentially burning your fingers.


 You must have different pharmacy than mine, those labels often peel off just handling them, I peel the labels off, and save the bottles, for a " possibility".

They are handy to hold small parts, screws, matches, or anything else that one can fit inside them.


ED


----------



## Drachenfire

de-nagorg said:


> You must have different pharmacy than mine, those labels often peel off just handling them, I peel the labels off, and save the bottles, for a " possibility".
> 
> They are handy to hold small parts, screws, matches, or anything else that one can fit inside them.
> 
> 
> ED


Because we take refillable medication, our insurance requires we use an on-line pharmacy service. The adhesive on their labels make them difficult to remove. 

The method of removal I suggest gives me clean (no adhesive residue) bottles for small parts storage.


----------



## aromaenthusias

From me is making plant pots using cement and towel also the plat rack using our old wood table it really helps to organize my plants and save space and of course money. The next one is I'm not sure if this can be considered as DIY but since it is the first time I did it I would like to share it, so this happens when my oven did not work on the day before my birthday so I used the turbo cooker and it still turns out good though it is a little bit dry. 😅


----------



## Drachenfire

We have all had that ironing board in the closet that tips over if you do not lean it just right. To keep this from happening mount a small towel rack to a wall just high enough so you can slide the boards tip under it. This method also works for storing brooms and lumber.


----------



## Drachenfire

Sometimes it is difficult remembering combinations such as those on a safe that is not frequently accessed.

To help with this, pick a single secret digit you can remember and add it to each of the numbers in the combination. Now mark the resulting higher or lower numbers on the lock or safe. When you need to unlock, just subtract your secret number from the listed numbers to determine the combination.


----------



## Nik333

Drachenfire said:


> Sometimes it is difficult remembering combinations such as those on a safe that is not frequently accessed.
> 
> To help with this, pick a single secret digit you can remember and add it to each of the numbers in the combination. Now mark the resulting higher or lower numbers on the lock or safe. When you need to unlock, just subtract your secret number from the listed numbers to determine the combination.


By the way, what's your favorite number?

And, where do you keep your safe?
😆


----------



## geenowalker

Drachenfire said:


> Sometimes it is difficult remembering combinations such as those on a safe that is not frequently accessed.
> 
> To help with this, pick a single secret digit you can remember and add it to each of the numbers in the combination. Now mark the resulting higher or lower numbers on the lock or safe. When you need to unlock, just subtract your secret number from the listed numbers to determine the combination.


If you bought a safe at any big box store *HD, Target, Wallmat, etc) other than a safe manufacturing store from a manufarcturer like sentry, google rare earth magnet opening safe, and you will realize why theives dont struggle with them. Kinda eye opening.


----------



## gma2rjc

Nik333 said:


> By the way, what's your favorite number?
> 
> And, where do you keep your safe?
> 😆


Hahaaha! Good one Nik!


----------



## Mordekyle

Drachenfire said:


> Sometimes it is difficult remembering combinations such as those on a safe that is not frequently accessed.
> 
> To help with this, pick a single secret digit you can remember and add it to each of the numbers in the combination. Now mark the resulting higher or lower numbers on the lock or safe. When you need to unlock, just subtract your secret number from the listed numbers to determine the combination.


I have a contact in my phone for Gim Locker

You could also add numbers for Gun Safe, Work Locker, Etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Drachenfire

Nik333 said:


> By the way, what's your favorite number?
> 
> And, where do you keep your safe?
> 😆


My safe is in a desert bunker of the Rocky Mountains at 11°20'59.99" N 142°11'60.00" E
My secret number is











geenowalker said:


> If you bought a safe at any big box store *HD, Target, Wallmat, etc) other than a safe manufacturing store from a manufarcturer like sentry, google rare earth magnet opening safe, and you will realize why theives dont struggle with them. Kinda eye opening.


I do not know why anyone in the market for a safe would buy some Chinese made junk from a big box store. You would do better locking your valuables in an old streamer trunk.


----------



## Nik333

Drachenfire said:


> My safe is in a desert bunker of the Rocky Mountains at 11°20'59.99" N 142°11'60.00" E
> My secret number is
> View attachment 642746
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not know why anyone in the market for a safe would buy some Chinese made junk from a big box store. You would do better locking your valuables in an old streamer trunk.


pi is approx. 3.14. thanks! The Mariana Trench is 36,200 ft deep. Won't it rust? That's a little beyond my diving ability. You *must *be a good swimmer! 🤣


----------



## Drachenfire

Nik333 said:


> The Mariana Trench is 36,200 ft deep. Won't it rust? That's a little beyond my diving ability. You *must *be a good swimmer! 🤣


I had it Line-X and I am PADI Advanced Open Water certified.., I think I am good. After all the water pressure is only 8-tons per square inch... 😄


----------



## geenowalker

Drachenfire said:


> My safe is in a desert bunker of the Rocky Mountains at 11°20'59.99" N 142°11'60.00" E
> My secret number is
> View attachment 642746
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do not know why anyone in the market for a safe would buy some Chinese made junk from a big box store. You would do better locking your valuables in an old streamer trunk.


n=0.13661977236758134307553505349006


----------



## Drachenfire

It is often hard to see fluids levels in the white plastic reservoirs of car engines, especially as they discolor with age. To quickly check the fluid, simply get out that flashlight you should have in your glovebox and shine it up against the plastic. It will reveal the fluid level inside the container.


----------



## Drachenfire

It can be hard trying to hold pull knobs while you paint them. And what do you do with them while they dry. 

Turn an egg crate upside down, poke a hole in each hump and screw the knob through the hole. Not only does this make a convenient holder while you paint the knobs, it holds them while they dry.


----------



## Drachenfire

Overhead lighting is great for most shop work, interestingly it is terrible when finishing a piece. 

When sanding or applying finish to a piece, position a bright light at a low-angle to the surface. This angled illumination will highlight any flaws in sanding or spots when applying finish.


----------



## MTN REMODEL LLC

Drachenfire said:


> Overhead lighting is great for most shop work, interestingly it is terrible when finishing a piece.
> 
> When sanding or applying finish to a piece, position a bright light at a low-angle to the surface. This angled illumination will highlight any flaws in sanding or spots when applying finish.


Same principle for drywall finishing


----------



## Drachenfire

It is well known that one should test out finishes on scraps before applying it to the finished piece. However, the preparation of the scrap is often not taken into enough consideration.

To get the most accurate example of what the finish will look like on your piece, use not only the same wood species as the piece but be sure it is sanded in the exact same way. Sanding lighter or harder or using different grits than that of finished piece will change the look of any finish you apply.


----------



## Nik333

Drachenfire said:


> Overhead lighting is great for most shop work, interestingly it is terrible when finishing a piece.
> 
> When sanding or applying finish to a piece, position a bright light at a low-angle to the surface. This angled illumination will highlight any flaws in sanding or spots when applying finish.





MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Same principle for drywall finishing


Same principles in reverse for looking good! 🤣


----------



## Drachenfire

Using twist ties or Velcro strips, attach a couple of spare blades to the frame of your hacksaw and/or coping saw. This way if a blade beaks, you do not have waste time looking for your replacement blades or trying to remember where you put them.


----------



## Drachenfire

When applying finish to a project, sometimes a bristle falls off the brush or a bug or other foreign particulate lands on the surface.

Keep a pair of fine tip surgical tweezers nearby as you work.










The fine point make it an ideal tool for removing the offending matter with minimal effect on the finish. 

Stainless steel ones are available for less the $5.


----------



## PPBART

if you find yourself in need of T-bolts, a cheap solution is "Toilet Bolts." Lowes and Home Depot have 1/4" and 5/16" diameters in various lengths.


----------



## Drachenfire

Todays automobile tires are less prone to flats than those previously made. Example, we have never had a flat tire on our 2010 Altima. Ergo, a spare (if you have one) could go unused for years.

The leads to the possibility that should the occasion come up that you need that spare, it may not be any good. The air could have leaked out or the rubber dry-rotted.

As part of you regular vehicle inspection for things like tire pressure and fluid levels, always take the spare out of the vehicle and check it for air pressure, cracks and other signs of deterioration. In trucks with tires mounted underneath, also ensure the lowering mechanism functions properly.

Additionally, make sure that everyone who drives the vehicle know where the jack, tire iron and lug nut key (if required) are located and how to use them safely.


----------



## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> Todays automobile tires today are less prone to flats than those previously made. Example, we have never had a flat tire on our 2010 Altima. Ergo, a spare (if you have one) could go unused for years.
> 
> The leads to the possibility that should the occasion come up that you need that spare, it may not be any good. The air could have leaked out or the rubber dry-rotted.
> 
> As part of you regular vehicle inspection for things like tire pressure and fluid levels, always take the spare out of the vehicle and check it for air pressure, cracks and other signs of deterioration. In trucks with tires mounted underneath, also ensure the lowering mechanism functions properly.
> 
> Additionally, make sure that everyone who drives the vehicle know where the jack, tire iron and lug nut key (if required) are located and how to use them safely.


 Wise advice.

The spare hanging under my Explorer, looks to be the original one from 12 years ago. 

I hope if I ever need it, it is still able to get me to the tire shop.

ED


----------



## geenowalker

I always utilize a full size spare (replaced my 14 Pilot donut) and include it regularly in the rotation schedule.


----------



## huesmann

I just keep a 12V air pump in the spare tire well.


----------



## Drachenfire

What boggles me is the fact that some vehicles do not even come with spares anymore. Sure some come with an inflator/sealant kit but that is of little use if damage is more than a simple puncture.

One of my co-workers drives a Prius. Last time he had a flat, it was cut in the tire caused by debris left by a road crew working in his neighborhood. He had to call a service to come out and fix it. It cost him a day's work. Had the car come with a spare, he could have changed it out in 20 minutes and be on his way.


----------



## huesmann

Spare tires can be heavy, and when mfgs are trying to reduce weight in an effort to improve efficiency, the spare is literally dead weight.


----------



## de-nagorg

huesmann said:


> Spare tires can be heavy, and when mfgs are trying to reduce weight in an effort to improve efficiency, the spare is literally dead weight.


 So is a passengers seat.

As well as air conditioning, radio, carpeting, and numerous other "needs".

Why not we all drive a mo-ped sized box?

a JEST , just to point out the illogic of that idea.

ED


----------



## Fix'n it

it makes sense for a small electric car, as does the space savings for something most will not need.


----------



## Drachenfire

huesmann said:


> Spare tires can be heavy, and when mfgs are trying to reduce weight in an effort to improve efficiency, the spare is literally dead weight.


A lot of good that "efficiency" will do you at 2am, 40 miles from home on a rural road with a tire sliced by road debris.

I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

- Paratus


----------



## Nik333

Does anyone have a DIY tip for washing the inside of big Prius front windows with short arms?😊


----------



## wigginsr181

"efficiency" won't be of any value at 2am, 4 miles from home on city streets when the tire is slashed with a knife either and the odds are better . Just closer to be towed.


----------



## Nik333

Drachenfire said:


> A lot of good that "efficiency" will do you at 2am, 40 miles from home on a rural road with a tire sliced by road debris.
> 
> I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
> 
> - Paratus


Motto of the US Coast Guard! Always prepared.

I often do things, almost superstitiously, to ward off inevitable bad circumstances that will come if I don't. Like when you go to get fast food. . .


----------



## wigginsr181

Nik333 said:


> Does anyone have a DIY tip for washing the inside of big Prius front windows with short arms?😊











Amazon.com: Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free : Automotive


Buy Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free: Brushes & Dusters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


----------



## Drachenfire

Nik333 said:


> Does anyone have a DIY tip for washing the inside of big Prius front windows with short arms?😊


"big Prius"

Isn't that an oxymoron?

Having this will help. Available on Amazon for $15 and probably cheaper at Wal-Mart or Target.


----------



## Nik333

Drachenfire said:


> "big Prius"
> Isn't that an oxymoron?


Big Prius front windows. 😄 They really do stretch far away from the driver, and there is little room where you sit, ironically, to wield a handle. Lately, i keep bumping my head on the roof. The last Toyota auto repair technician must have "returned" the seat to the level he thought I would need. Nice thought.


----------



## Fix'n it

Nik333 said:


> Motto of the US Coast Guard! Always prepared.
> 
> I often do things, almost superstitiously, to ward off inevitable bad circumstances that will come if I don't. Like when you go to get fast food. . .



???


----------



## Nik333

Fix'n it said:


> ???
> View attachment 674165


🤣 Not one of my problems, Thank God!
No, I tend to throw on inappropriate clothes & don't brush my hair to go get Fast Food & it seems almost always, I encounter a cop.👨‍🚀 That's a spacesuit emoji.


----------



## Fix'n it

Nik333 said:


> 🤣 Not one of my problems, Thank God!


oh, so you don't go to Taco Bell, gotcha


----------



## Nik333

Fix'n it said:


> oh, so you don't go to Taco Bell, gotcha


No, I do. . .


----------



## Fix'n it

you have TB's out there ? hmmm, interesting. any White Castle ? doubt it.


----------



## Drachenfire

Nik333 said:


> Big Prius front windows. 😄 They really do stretch far away from the driver, and there is little room where you sit...


Sound like a grandchild of an AMC Pacer.


----------



## de-nagorg

Fix'n it said:


> you have TB's out there ? hmmm, interesting. any White Castle ? doubt it.


There is a Taco Bell here, no White Castle though.


----------



## Fix'n it

de-nagorg said:


> There is a Taco Bell here, no White Castle though.


you ever had WC ?


----------



## de-nagorg

Fix'n it said:


> you ever had WC ?



I've been no farther east, than the Iowa / South Dakota state line.

Picked up a load at the port, and returned back west.

Have only heard good things about them.

ED


----------



## Fix'n it

de-nagorg said:


> Have only heard good things about them.
> 
> ED


they are a love or hate thing, me, i am in the middle, lol. somewhat greasy, and tasty, a good junk food, to be had in moderation. their other offering are about the same. should you feel the itch, walmart has frozen ones. i just nuke em. while not quite as good, they are a accurate representation.


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## Drachenfire

With winter upon us, here are some things around the home you will want to check before temperatures really take a plunge. Some of these should have been done already.

*Have your chimney inspected*
Before you use your fireplace or wood stove for heating, have the chimney or flue inspected and cleaned by a professional. This will help prevent chimney fires.

A blocked chimney or flue can also increase the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning which means you should also check the functionality of your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors and replace if necessary.

*Have the furnace inspected*
A furnace should be inspected annually. It would also be a good idea to have the air ducts cleaned at this time and do not forget to change the filters regularly.

*Radiators*
If your home has radiant heating, free up the space around the radiators can keep large furniture from blocking or absorbing the heat preventing it from warming the room properly.

*Ceiling Fan*
Reverse the airflow on ceiling fans. Switching the airflow and running the fan at a slow speed will help bring warm air down to the living area. Most modern fans have a switch to do this.

*Winter storm ready*
Pay attention to the weather so you have plenty of time to prepare if a winter storm is eminent. Have plenty of non-perishable foods on hand along with necessities like toilet paper and medication both prescription and OTC.

Ensure the fuel in your car(s) is topped off and its maintenance is up to date.

If you have a generator, make sure its service is up to date and the generator functions.

DO NOT run your generator while power in your home is on. This can cause backfeeding that will energize the transformer serving your house. This is an electrocution hazard for line crews and for your neighbors. If backfeeding occurs, it may severely damage power company equipment, for which you will be liable financially.

If you have a snow blower, ensure it is properly serviced, functions and the fuel topped off.

If the snow blower is stored in a back yard shed or similar area, it may be hard to get at following a snowstorm. If a storm is forecasted, a good idea is to move the blower to the garage along with the snow shovel. DO NOT start a gas-powered snow blower in the garage.

A good idea is to keep a can of cooking spray on hand. Spraying the chute occasionally will help the snow discharge from the blower better, especially heavy, wet, slushy snow. Some people prefer using something like WD40 but since I blow the snow into my yard, I do not like the idea of the chemical getting into the ground.

*Vehicle preparedness *
If freezing weather is forecasted, raise your wipers to prevent them from freezing to the windshield. You can also cover them with grocery bags to prevent ice from forming on them. Bags can be wrapped around rear-view mirrors for the same reason 

Rub cooking spray or other lubricant on the rubber door seals to keep them from freezing shut.

To make a quick and cheap de-icer, mix three parts vinegar to one part water in a spray bottle.

*When on the road*
Ensure your cell phone is fully charged and you have a car charger available. For added insurance, you can include a portable charger.

Keep emergency blankets on hand.

Always have bottled water and non-perishable snack bars.

A good roadside emergency kit at the very least is should have LED flashlight, flares or reflective triangles, jumper cables, work gloves, scraper, safety hammer, small knife, screwdriver with assorted bits, pliers, small first aid kit.

If you have the space, a bag of cat litter in case you get stuck in the snow.

If your insurance company does not offer roadside assistance, a AAA membership is a good investment.

Stay safe everyone


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## wigginsr181

Right and Wrong
Less chance rounding a nut when loosening or doing final tightening








. Applies to open end wrenches also.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC

wigginsr181 said:


> Right and Wrong
> Less chance rounding a nut when loosening or doing final tightening
> View attachment 676454
> 
> .* Applies to open end wrenches also.*


*"Applies to open end wrenches also." ????????????????????????????????????*


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## Mike Milam

Nik333 said:


> Does anyone have a DIY tip for washing the inside of big Prius front windows with short arms?😊


Saw a Youtube video where a person used a swiffer with a damp rag and then dry rag. Looked doable


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## gthomson

Nik333 said:


> Does anyone have a DIY tip for washing the inside of big Prius front windows with short arms?😊


Search on 'aquarium cleaner stick', and you might find some good options to help.


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## Nik333

gthomson said:


> Search on 'aquarium cleaner stick', and you might find some good options to help.


Perfect angle! I could put glass wipes or paper towels on the sponge.
https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...uarium-glass-scrubber-and-scraper-18-2638905?


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## de-nagorg

Nik333 said:


> Does anyone have a DIY tip for washing the inside of big Prius front windows with short arms?😊


 I saw an ad on-line for a commercially made tool to do this.

Have you searched the net for one?

ED


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## Nik333

de-nagorg said:


> I saw an ad on-line for a commercially made tool to do this.
> 
> Have you searched the net for one?
> 
> ED


Somewhat but, they didn't have the right angle or were too big. The aquarium one looks just right.


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## de-nagorg

Nik333 said:


> Somewhat but, they didn't have the right angle or were too big. The aquarium one looks just right.



I looked up that ad and got a link to post for your perusal.

Interesting, but I don't have "short arms".





__





Nothing Here






thewindshieldwondersale.com





ED


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## huesmann

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> *"Applies to open end wrenches also." ????????????????????????????????????*


Yeah, not sure how this works when neither jaw is moveable.


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## wigginsr181

The open end wrench has approximately the same angle as the adjustable wrench so the un-wanted force is in the same location on the open end of the combination wrench.


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## raylo32

Just follow Lee Haney's advice: nothing to it but to do it!


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## huesmann

wigginsr181 said:


> The open end wrench has approximately the same angle as the adjustable wrench so the un-wanted force is in the same location on the open end of the combination wrench.


So? The jaws of an open end are agnostic as to the forces, as the driving force is rotational.


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## de-nagorg

It would be interesting to read a Scientific report on this.

As an experienced nut / bolt stripper, I agree with Wiggins, that it takes less " Armstromg" to strip one with the tool in the " BACKWARD" position. 

I have snapped the BOXEND on a 15/16 wrench, using nothing more than my arms. 

Sometimes there is no other way to get the openend on the nut though, except backward. 

ED


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## MTN REMODEL LLC

de-nagorg said:


> It would be interesting to read a Scientific report on this.
> 
> As an experienced nut / bolt stripper, I agree with Wiggins, that it takes less " Armstromg" to strip one with the tool in the " BACKWARD" position.
> 
> I have snapped the BOXEND on a 15/16 wrench, using nothing more than my arms.
> 
> Sometimes there is no other way to get the openend on the nut though, except backward.
> 
> ED


 Guess...I've learned something here on open end wrenches....not sure what though....in pretty many years, I've never encountered an issue/problem.....


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## de-nagorg

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Guess...I've learned something here on open end wrenches....not sure what though....in pretty many years, I've never encountered an issue/problem.....



Most (99%), won't ever strip one. 

They don't have the arm for it.

Depending on the sise.

Any bolt less than 1/4, I can snap with just wrist action.

I am not bragging, at times it is a disadvantage.

Too bad that Mythbusters ain't still active, this would be right up their alley, to investigate, and report on.

ED


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## wigginsr181

I believe the intended theory is the corners of a hex nut will be less likely to be rounded if wrench is applied correct. This is where many fail with a adjustable. The wrench isn't adjusted tight enuff and applied wrong. Add to that a poor quality wrench ( _combination wrenches included_ ) and that's when the grand kids learn that other language an graduate to Bi-lingual.


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## Drachenfire

When sanding in the corner of a project, the vibrating or random orbital sander can leave scratches or dents with the sander body and the sandpaper on adjoining surfaces. These are very difficult if not impossible to fix.

Hold a small sheet of metal flashing or thin plastic laminate between the sander and the surface you want to protect. Now you can sand as close as you want without worrying about hitting adjoining surfaces.


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## de-nagorg

Drachenfire said:


> When sanding in the corner of a project, the vibrating or random orbital sander can leave scratches or dents with the sander body and the sandpaper on adjoining surfaces. These are very difficult if not impossible to fix.
> 
> Hold a small sheet of metal flashing or thin plastic laminate between the sander and the surface you want to protect. Now you can sand as close as you want without worrying about hitting adjoining surfaces.


 Use the same technique when using a paint brush, or staining something. 

A piece of cardboard from your Wheaties box does great.

ED


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## SteveDRich

Here's a great DIY Handyman Tips & Hacks That Work Extremely Well video for beginners. Some great tips. Definitely worth a watch.


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## Drachenfire

SteveDRich said:


> Here's a great DIY Handyman Tips & Hacks That Work Extremely Well video for beginners. Some great tips. Definitely worth a watch.


I have watched a number of these videos. Some of them have really good tips.


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## Drachenfire

Found this at Home Depot. It is perfect for hanging my grass trimmer and edger. It will support 40lbs and mounting screws are included. Not bad for $8.


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## SeniorSitizen

Drachenfire said:


> Found this at Home Depot. It is perfect for hanging my grass trimmer and edger. It will support 40lbs and mounting screws are included. Not bad for $8.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 717134
> View attachment 717135


I'd modify so my trimmer would hang engine down if it doesn't as is and also i'd get 2 more and mod. to hang chain saws eng. down so they don't leak bar oil .


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## ServiceCall

Drachenfire said:


> Found this at Home Depot. It is perfect for hanging my grass trimmer and edger. It will support 40lbs and mounting screws are included. Not bad for $8.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 717134
> View attachment 717135


That’s the exact same one I use. Fits perfect.


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## geenowalker

Let wine glasses dry upside down on a paper towel. Will absorb the moisture and leave no drop/water marks.


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## Drachenfire

When buying power tools, computers, touchpads or any other high value product that come in a (supposedly) sealed box, as soon as you pay for the product AND before leaving the store, open the box and verify the product is what you purchased. Try to do this in view of one of the store's surveillance cameras.

There was a case where a person paid for a Milwaukee M18 FUEL impact wrench. The box said FUEL but when he opened it in the parking lot after leaving the store, he found the box contained a Milwaukee non-FUEL impact driver in it. 

The box the non-FUEL tool came in had a label on it which indicated it came from another store.

Apparently the previous purchaser bought both a FUEL and non-FUEL impact wrench. He then put the non-FUEL impact wrench in the FUEL box and returned it to a different store for a refund on the "FUEL" model.

When the victim attempted to get the issue resolved, the store said there was nothing they could do. It was clear they thought HE was the one trying to scam them.

In another situation, a person bought an I-Pad. The box was even shrink wrapped. When he opened the box, he found three paper notepads inside the box.

Christmas is coming and many people will be buying tools and electronics as gifts for loved ones. This also means the scammers will be out as well so be sure to check those products before leaving the store. It is far better to verify your purchase before leaving the store and wrap a box that has been opened than to have your loved one open that gift Christmas morning only to find "coal" in the box.


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## de-nagorg

I have mentioned this before.

I once was replacing a Breaker in a home, that was faulty.

Went to a store bought one in a box that was marked as the proper one.

Got to the job and it fit but was also faulty.

Went back to the store, there they discovered the one I had bought was not even the brand on the box.

After a half hour of me swearing that I had nothing to do with the sneaky swap in the box, I finally got a real one that I needed. 

So, checking the contents under the eye of an employee is a sound idea.

ED


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## MTN REMODEL LLC

Didn't happen to me.... but people were returning "unopened clean" paint cans filled with water.


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## de-nagorg

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Didn't happen to me.... but people were returning "unopened clean" paint cans filled with water.


The Cajone's of some people, amazing. 

Makes me wonder if Civilization has really advanced.

ED


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## Racinmason

I recently heard of someone renting a truck from Uhaul, only to swap his old wore out engine form his own truck.


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## de-nagorg

There were stories back in the 60's where Hertz had Shelby Mustangs for rent.

And people would rent them, go to a Drag track, race them, and return them on Monday. 

Lots of people have no morals in them at all.

ED


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## Drachenfire

I know a guy who used to work for Enterprise. He told me about a truck they had that came from the dealer with custom rims.

A guy rented it and returned it to a different Enterprise office. Unbeknownst to him, they were familiar with the truck and quickly noticed it no longer had the custom rims.

They called the police who went to the guys house and found the rims on his personal truck. He was charged with grand theft.


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## Drachenfire

Sometimes your table saw miter gauge can become loose in the miter slot just from years of use. The deviation is usually slight but can be noticeable when trying to make precision cuts like those in cabinet or picture framing. 

There are mods you can do that require drilling and tapping small holes in the side of the bar and inserting Teflon screws which are then adjusted until the play is eliminated. 

A quick fix for this is to affix a strip of painters tape to the bar. Often just the one thickness of painters tape along one side is enough to eliminate the play.

I have used this method often and it has worked every time.


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## geenowalker

Hiring contractor for a seasonal location:

Contractors that work around seasonal locations can be hit or miss as some advertise during peak months. Workmanship can (not always though) be spotty as they are not local to take accountability and often gouge people not familiar with the work. Guy I was fishing with said to hit the library, find contractor from phone book 15-20 years ago and match up with who is still in business. If they are still in business...they generally have gone through the ups and downs of the economy and provide stable work.

Tried this for my plumbing projects (replace 3 shower valves, 2 toilets, and W/D valves).....first 4 quotes were within $150 of each other and all had really positive reviews online and all offered local referrals. The only one that could fit me in his schedule is downstairs as I type, replacing a shower valve.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC

geenowalker said:


> Hiring contractor for a seasonal location:
> 
> Contractors that work around seasonal locations can be hit or miss as some advertise during peak months. Workmanship can (not always though) be spotty as they are not local to take accountability and often gouge people not familiar with the work. Guy I was fishing with said to hit the library, find contractor from phone book 15-20 years ago and match up with who is still in business. If they are still in business...they generally have gone through the ups and downs of the economy and provide stable work.
> 
> Tried this for my plumbing projects (replace 3 shower valves, 2 toilets, and W/D valves).....first 4 quotes were within $150 of each other and all had really positive reviews online and all offered local referrals. The only one that could fit me in his schedule is downstairs as I type, replacing a shower valve.


 REALLY like your idea and general concept, especially if you're new to an area,,,,, I did not realize the library carried old phone books,,,,

,(However, may be a short lived tip good for only a few more years,,,, do we still have phonebooks.?)


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