# Drilling through parking sign



## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

can you get it to a drill press ?
I would start with a 1/8" hole then the 3/8"
the hammer setting is for rocks and wood - not metal.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

John Smith_inFL said:


> can you get it to a drill press ?
> I would start with a 1/8" hole then the 3/8"


So should I Google "drill press near me"?

Cause I don't think they offer that service at Home Depot. I could also go buy the 1/8" cobalt bit and see what happens.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

John Smith_inFL said:


> can you get it to a drill press ?
> I would start with a 1/8" hole then the 3/8"
> the hammer setting is for rocks and wood - not metal.


Unless something like this would work. Costs only $169. I thought it would be over $1000 for a drill press.









RYOBI 10 in. Drill Press with EXACTLINE Laser Alignment System DP103L - The Home Depot


RYOBI introduces the 10 in. Drill Press with Laser. This tabletop 10 in. drill press features a 1/4 HP induction motor offering five speed settings supplying 620-3100 no-load RPM to complete a variety



www.homedepot.com


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

1) don't use a hammer drill on metal. There is a chance your drill bit is chipped or dull or just plan broken at this point.

2) use a fairly low speed on the drill (the lowest speed if only has two). Use some oil to lube the bit while it's cutting, and apply moderate pressure while drilling.

I am betting your drill bit is damaged somehow. That metal should be soft and a cobalt bit should go right through it. The hammer action may have chipped the cutting edge.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

John - so, I am guessing you don't have a drill press ?
with the post on the floor, supported by scrap 2x4, stand over it vertically and apply your body weight to the drill.
that would give you the same force of a drill press.
how many posts do you have to drill holes in ?
(as a retired sign maker, I have done quite a few of those: by hand and on the drill press).
new bit always helps.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

+1 on no hammer setting. I'm guessing the bit is either damaged or dull. Cobalt bits are really necessary for mild steel but if that's what you have. . .

Don't use a ton of pressure and lube with oil. Specific cutting oil is best but any light oil will work for floating chips away and cooling the cut.

I treat twist drill bits as consumables.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Get a sharp bit and don't use the hammer setting. With a sharp bit you should be through that in no time.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Davejss said:


> Get a sharp bit and don't use the hammer setting. With a sharp bit you should be through that in no time.


What does a sharp bit look like? Is this sharp? Was it sharp when I bought it?


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

lenaitch said:


> +1 on no hammer setting. I'm guessing the bit is either damaged or dull. Cobalt bits are really necessary for mild steel but if that's what you have. . .
> 
> Don't use a ton of pressure and lube with oil. Specific cutting oil is best but any light oil will work for floating chips away and cooling the cut.
> 
> I treat twist drill bits as consumables.


Is there something better to use than cobalt? I believe this is the hardest thing on the shelf for metal. I tried titanium but wasn't strong enough.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

John Smith_inFL said:


> John - so, I am guessing you don't have a drill press ?
> with the post on the floor, supported by scrap 2x4, stand over it vertically and apply your body weight to the drill.
> that would give you the same force of a drill press.
> how may posts do you have to drill holes in ?
> ...


The bit is brand new. Assuming it wasn't worn down by the hammer. I have to make 4 holes.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

Looks like a bit for wood, with the stepped point. You want a HSS bit. High speed steel. With a plain split point.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Half-fast eddie said:


> Looks like a bit for wood. You want a HSS bit. High speed steel.


It's a cobalt bit


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

Home depot.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Half-fast eddie said:


> Home depot.
> 
> View attachment 643534


If my drill isn't giving enough force with the cobalt bit, then perhaps I would still need a drill press to work with this.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> If my drill isn't giving enough force with the cobalt bit, then perhaps I would still need a drill press to work with this.


YOU. DO. NOT. NEED. A. DRILL. PRESS.
Use your portable drill motor. Turn off the hammer function. Use a new bit.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Half-fast eddie said:


> YOU. DO. NOT. NEED. A. DRILL. PRESS.
> Use your portable drill motor. Turn off the hammer function. Use a new bit.


Ok. Well a cobalt bit is stronger than both HSS and titanium, correct? So why would the bit you suggested work and not cobalt?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Ok. Well a cobalt bit is stronger than both HSS and titanium, correct? So why would the bit you suggested work and not cobalt?


A little cutting oil would help, don't use the hammer, run the drill slow and push like hell.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

Stronger has nothing to do with drilling the hole. You need a sharp bit to bite into the metal. There is a good chance the bit you are using is dull.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Ok. Well a cobalt bit is stronger than both HSS and titanium, correct? So why would the bit you suggested work and not cobalt?


Ayuh,..... Like Eddie is tellin' you, it's not what the bit is made of(actually, just coated with), cobalt,.....
It's the shape of the cuttin' edge, 'n the hammer function yer usin',.....
The bit in the picture is for wood, or it's really all beat to 'ell,....

You don't need cobalt, just plain ole HHS ', 'n some cutting oil will blow holes through that sign post, all day long,....
I'd grab a 3/16" HSS, 'n a 3/8" HSS bits, 'n a can of cuttin' oil,.... I use Atf, transmission oil myself,.....

Be ginger with the smaller bit, don't use all yer weight, just a good solid 20/ 30lb down pressure, 'n oil on the bit, 'n no hammer action,....
The 3/16" bit will cut as fast as the 1/8", but is less likely to break off,....

Then punch the 3/8" hole with the bigger bit, 'n again, more cuttin' oil,....

4 holes should be a maybe 20 minute job,..... with a hand drill motor,.... cordless even,....


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,..... Like Eddie is tellin' you, it's not what the bit is made of(actually, just coated with), cobalt,.....
> It's the shape of the cuttin' edge, 'n the hammer function yer usin',.....
> The bit in the picture is for wood, or it's really all beat to 'ell,....
> 
> ...


I just left the store with a new 1/8" cobalt, 3/8" cobalt, and oil. We'll see how it goes. Too late to go back to the store tonight.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Is the drill bit going clockwise looking at it from above?


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Half-fast eddie said:


> Stronger has nothing to do with drilling the hole. You need a sharp bit to bite into the metal. There is a good chance the bit you are using is dull.


I bought a new 3/8" cobalt bit, but the end of the old one looks identical. So I didn't take it out of the packaging. I got a hole through with the 1/8", but still can't with the 3/8". So I'm going to buy a 1/4" tomorrow to see if I can step up incrementally. If I bought a stepped bit, it will take 3 days to arrive.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Half-fast eddie said:


> Home depot.
> 
> View attachment 643534


Don't I need smaller than this for a 3/8" hole? 3/8" is smaller than 7/16. So should I get this one?... (And if I bought this, it might cause issues with the wood underneath).









Stark 1/8 in. x 1/2 in. 13-Sizes Titanium Heavy-Impact HSS Step Drill Bit 31000-H - The Home Depot


The Stark Heavy Impact HHS Titanium Step Drill Bits are specially designed to accommodate the needs of professionals and serious DIY handyman. Each of our bits are individually engineered with premium



www.homedepot.com


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Maybe just start with a drill bit made for drilling steel.








Drilling Through Structural Steel With New & Old Drill Bits | Fasteners 101 - YouTube


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> Maybe just start with a drill bit made for drilling steel.
> View attachment 643567


I'm having to push with a lot of force to even get a few shavings of steel off. With this much of my bodyweight on the drill, I won't be able to catch myself if I slip. So I bought a drill press that will arrive on February 19th. I'll probably still be trying between now and then, though.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Domo said:


> Is the drill bit going clockwise looking at it from above?


Yes.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

There's a lot of things in this world that I have yet to see but I never seen a drill bit like that. It is either totally pooched or some specialty use that I'm not aware of. The pilot point and cutting angle look foreign to me. You need one that, when fresh and new, look like the one Neal posted.

I've drilled dozens of holes in stamped steel fence posts, which are essentially the same as what you are trying, with a standard HSS bit and a normal power drill, and have never had a problem.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

lenaitch said:


> There's a lot of things in this world that I have yet to see but I never seen a drill bit like that. It is either totally pooched or some specialty use that I'm not aware of. The pilot point and cutting angle look foreign to me. You need one that, when fresh and new, look like the one Neal posted.
> 
> I've drilled dozens of holes in stamped steel fence posts, which are essentially the same as what you are trying, with a standard HSS bit and a normal power drill, and have never had a problem.


Here's what it looks like. "Quad Edge Tip." Must not work for these purposes.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

lenaitch said:


> There's a lot of things in this world that I have yet to see but I never seen a drill bit like that. It is either totally pooched or some specialty use that I'm not aware of. The pilot point and cutting angle look foreign to me. You need one that, when fresh and new, look like the one Neal posted.
> 
> I've drilled dozens of holes in stamped steel fence posts, which are essentially the same as what you are trying, with a standard HSS bit and a normal power drill, and have never had a problem.


Not sure what the problem is but I have never seen it either. 
Milwaukee® Cobalt Red Helix™ Drill Bits - YouTube


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> Not sure what the problem is but I have never seen it either.
> Milwaukee® Cobalt Red Helix™ Drill Bits - YouTube


According to what you both are saying... The problem is the bit. Correct?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Here's what it looks like. "Quad Edge Tip." Must not work for these purposes.


+does the cutting edge still look like new.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> According to what you both are saying... The problem is the bit. Correct?


I have boxes of just regular twist drills, that i bought from a retired machinist in the 70s. They spend more on packaging than steel today. You should not be having problems.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> +does the cutting edge still look like new.


It looks the same as the one in the package.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> It looks the same as the one in the package.


Just buy a regular twist drill and a little cutting oil.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> Just buy a regular twist drill and a little cutting oil.


Mine is not a twist bit because it's "Quad Edge"?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Mine is not a twist bit because it's "Quad Edge"?


All I am saying is a cheap twist drill will drill a 100 holes if oil is used before it needs sharpening and it can be sharpened until it is 2" long. 
Nothing fancy it is all they had to drill holes in the Titanic for rivits. .


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

It’s really hard to tell because the photos are not high resolution. 

Are the edges chipped or rolled here in these pictures?


















I’m guessing that the drill bit edge got damaged with the hammer being used. 

With only a 3/8” hole you should be able to drill straight through mild steel no problem. Be careful not to pilot the hole with too close of a size to the hit you plan to use next. The bits can bind when hand drilling close sizes. That binding will chip the cutting edge and your ability to drill will be lost. Don’t waste your time with the bit any longer if you have chipped the edge. At that point you either sharpen it or move on to the next.

Those are nice drill bits but they are hard to re-sharpen. As others have mentioned here, it’s cheeper to use HSS and cutting oil with a 135 deg split point tip. 

When cutting avoid spinning the bit in the hole. It should be cutting the whole time. Put the piece on a firm wood block backing so you can push down without the post flexing or bending. Push down with enough pressure so that the chips start cutting when the bit is spinning. 

The hammer setting is for masonry (concrete and bricks) don’t use it for anything else. 

I’m with the others on the thought that your drill bit is now damaged from having used the hammer setting or no oil. If you don’t know what to look for when choosing a sharp bit then it’s hard for you to assess the condition of the one you are using. I think you should open the new 3/8” bit that you have and give it a try. You will know very quickly if that was your issue. And a much cheeper solution than the drill press if it turns out to be just a dull bit. Using a dull bit in a drill press will end in the same frustration 

Key points. 
-Use a sharp bit
-Use oil 
-For mild steel use medium pressure at about 800 RPM
-If it’s stainless then use half the speed and twice the pressure. DO NOT allow the metal to heat up too much. 
-Do not use the hammer function
-Use a wood backing so you don’t drill into masonry or dirt when the drill penetrates through. This will dull the bit is a quick hurry. 
-The wood backing should be solid so the work doesn’t flex or move when drilling. 
-If the drill bit doesn’t have a split point tip then pre drill a pilot hole the size of the non cutting portion at the tip of the large drill bit. 
- Only drill into the flat of the work piece. If the drill bit hits a vertical edge then it can break the tip of the cutting head.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

When I look at the bit in the drill, I see the centre starting to protrude above the cutting edges, similar but not as bad as in earlier pics. It's damaged.


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## SpentPenny (Dec 15, 2020)

That should have been a trivial project. I'm betting your drill is in reverse.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

There’s nothing wrong with wanting a drill press. Oh yeah ... another tool in the shop! But it’s not a panacea for all holes. He doesn’t realize it yet, but now he is going to add the problem of supporting the sign post at the right height, keeping it from spinning when the bit grabs, clamping the drill press to the work bench or kitchen table, and using his 3rd hand to lower the quill. And don’t forget ... need to select the correct speed. One good thing ... not many drill presses come with reverse so at least the bit will be going the right direction.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

I feel like you could have paid a handy man a lot less than what you have into this in tools. 

I don't know what the issue is, but this shouldn't be a difficult task.


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

SpentPenny said:


> That should have been a trivial project. I'm betting your drill is in reverse.


I would be impressed if they got as far as they have with the drill in reverse.


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## Wm. Robert (Oct 24, 2020)

Using the drill on "hammer" is wrong. Use it on "drill". There's a good chance you've damaged the bit. Try a smaller diameter bit and work up to the size you need. The carbide bit should go through that easy enough.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

He said this in #23. Something isn’t right. If he has a 1/8” hole, the 3/8” bit should go through easily. Is this a scam discussion? Are we being played? 

_ I got a hole through with the 1/8", but still can't with the 3/8"_


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Wm. Robert said:


> Using the drill on "hammer" is wrong. Use it on "drill". There's a good chance you've damaged the bit. Try a smaller diameter bit and work up to the size you need. The carbide bit should go through that easy enough.


I didn't have time to work on this today. But I did but a titanium 3/8" bit. If the old cobalt 3/8" bit was damaged by using it in hammer mode, then maybe I won't have to use a new cobalt bit (maybe titanium is enough, and cheaper). I was told to get a HSS bit... But I see nothing with that specific name... I just see that the titanium and cobalt are HSS coated with one of those metals. And, btw, the titanium bit I bought has the same Quad Tip.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

SpentPenny said:


> That should have been a trivial project. I'm betting your drill is in reverse.


The 1/8" bit got through pretty easily. So maybe the 3/8" bit was damaged by using hammer and no oil.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Vermont America used to make those HSS bits, at a reasonable cost, I have several partial sets, with broken or woreout bits in the clamshell.

ED


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Wm. Robert said:


> Using the drill on "hammer" is wrong. Use it on "drill". There's a good chance you've damaged the bit. Try a smaller diameter bit and work up to the size you need. The carbide bit should go through that easy enough.


Another question... Since the bit will actually be going through the wood as it's trying to cut the metal... Will that affect anything? Because there's already the hole from the 1/8" bit. Just trying to make sure there's no more surprises.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Another question... Since the bit will actually be going through the wood as it's trying to cut the metal... Will that affect anything? Because there's already the hole from the 1/8" bit. Just trying to make sure there's no more surprises.



No, there should be no problem with the wood.

There might be a problem when the bit gets through the steel, and catches a burr, spinning the post, and whacking your leg.

Just go slow, and press the bit gently, to minimize the possible catching.

Better yet, weigh down, or clamp the post solid to something stationary.


ED


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

The saga continues... I started today using the new titanium bit. It drilled through instantly! Then I tried hole #2... Wouldn't go through. I kept pushing harder until I'm putting too much force that I couldn't catch my balance if there was a slip... No luck. I switched to the new cobalt bit.... It drilled through instantly! (2 holes done out of 4).

I tried cobalt on new hole. No luck. So I have 2 holes drilled.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> The saga continues... I started today using the new titanium bit. It drilled through instantly! Then I tried hole #2... Wouldn't go through. I kept pushing harder until I'm putting too much force that I couldn't catch my balance if there was a slip... No luck. I switched to the new cobalt bit.... It drilled through instantly! (2 holes done out of 4).
> 
> I tried cobalt on new hole. No luck. So I have 2 holes drilled.



Invest in a Drill Doctor bit sharpener, sharpen them again, and repeat.

That must be one heavy duty post, or the quality of those bits is garbage.


ED


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> The saga continues... I started today using the new titanium bit. It drilled through instantly! Then I tried hole #2... Wouldn't go through. I kept pushing harder until I'm putting too much force that I couldn't catch my balance if there was a slip... No luck. I switched to the new cobalt bit.... It drilled through instantly! (2 holes done out of 4).
> 
> I tried cobalt on new hole. No luck. So I have 2 holes drilled.


The wood is sacrificial, you should be drilling into it as you finish the hole (not through it, just know that you CAN drill into it with no problems).

You are drilling very close to the edge on the lower one. That may have damaged your tips. 

Try flipping them over and drilling through from the other side now.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> Invest in a Drill Doctor bit sharpener, sharpen them again, and repeat.
> 
> That must be one heavy duty post, or the quality of those bits is garbage.
> 
> ...











Sign Post


Sign Post, U-Channel, Green, 96 In




www.grainger.com





Worst part is that if they actually looked like the pictures (holes the entire length), I wouldn't have had to do this. Instead, they arrived with holes on only top half.


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Sign Post
> 
> 
> Sign Post, U-Channel, Green, 96 In
> ...


What are you using them for that requires holes on both sides?


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> Invest in a Drill Doctor bit sharpener, sharpen them again, and repeat.
> 
> That must be one heavy duty post, or the quality of those bits is garbage.
> 
> ...


I’m guessing with the quad-step head that those bits have, it would take a bit of work to grind them down to a point that the drill doctor would work. I’ve never used one but the reviews I’ve seen seem like they don’t have enough power to grind down a large portion like that.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

azeotrope said:


> What are you using them for that requires holes on both sides?


I bought two 8' posts and cut them in half. So there's 4 signs.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Shape the bit on a bench grinder first, then run it through a drill doctor for precision.

I have re-used many broken bits in this fashion.

You will need a bit holder made for attaching to the grinder, that holds it at a precise angle, to grind the tip into a normal bit.

Yours are useless as is now, because those posts are mild steel, I looked at the Grainger catalog in your link.

If they won't drill the second hole, they won't drill anything else either.


ED


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> Shape the bit on a bench grinder first, then run it through a drill doctor for precision.
> 
> I have re-used many broken bits in this fashion.
> 
> ...


After flipping it over, I got 1 more. So only 1 hole to go.


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> I bought two 8' posts and cut them in half. So there's 4 signs.


Does that mean the signs are going to be 2’ off the ground after they are installed?


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

azeotrope said:


> Does that mean the signs are going to be 2’ off the ground after they are installed?


Pretty much.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

Titanium bits are only titanium coated, to help dissipate heat. Most are of them titanium coated crap. Bits made from solid M35 (5% Cobalt) steel should drill through 50 posts like that without getting dull, even without oil, as long as you go slow. M42 (8% Cobalt) bits are harder still, but may be too brittle; carbide is even harder and more brittle than the M42.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

HotRodx10 said:


> Titanium bits are only titanium coated, to help dissipate heat. Most are of them titanium coated crap. Bits made from solid M35 (5% Cobalt) steel should drill through 50 posts like that without getting dull, even without oil, as long as you go slow. M42 (8% Cobalt) bits are harder still, but may be too brittle; carbide is even harder and more brittle than the M42.


Not sure what these cobalt bits are made of. But as soon as Lowe's opens... I'm buying a 3/8" titanium and getting through this 1 last hole.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

in the future, try to find the ones with the holes already drilled in them.
I see them at most of my local Box Stores.
and I agree, a 4 foot post, two feet in the ground, is pretty uncommon. (unless it is for a walking path).


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Not sure what these cobalt bits are made of...


High speed steel (HSS) alloyed with 5% or 8% Cobalt (element, metal, atomic number 27, abbreviation Co)


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

HotRodx10 said:


> High speed steel (HSS) alloyed with 5% or 8% Cobalt (element, metal, atomic number 27, abbreviation Co)


Then obviously what you're saying isn't true about easily drilling through posts like this.

Although I will say that even my dull bit easily drilled through one of the metal signs when I had to enlarge the hole. These posts are obviously tougher than you think. If it were as easy as many people here are saying... I wouldn't have made the post in the first place!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Then obviously what you're saying isn't true about easily drilling through posts like this.
> 
> Although I will say that even my dull bit easily drilled through one of the metal signs when I had to enlarge the hole. These posts are obviously tougher than you think. If it were as easy as many people here are saying... I wouldn't have made the post in the first place!


Do you have a link to the post that you have. 
They can make steel hard, like a knife and it would be hard to drill but we would not expect that with a post like that.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a link to the post that you have.
> They can make steel hard, like a knife and it would be hard to drill but we would not expect that with a post like that.











Sign Post


Sign Post, U-Channel, Green, 96 In




www.grainger.com





I could just use a thinner bolt. But I've come this far, might as well finish it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Sign Post
> 
> 
> Sign Post, U-Channel, Green, 96 In
> ...


I don't know enough about steel but it says it complies with *ASTM A-499 Yield Strength* and that includes hardness. 
So maybe it was not just mild steel like we all thought it was.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Then obviously what you're saying isn't true about easily drilling through posts like this.


It should have worked fine for the posts you linked to, since they're no more than Grade 80 mild steel. I drilled through a several steel t-posts, (which are manufactured to the same ASTM A-499 spec as your posts), with a good quality M35 bit, including partially through the harder weld portion. It made several holes with no problem. This was after dulling several of the titanium coated pieces of crap of various sizes, without making much more than a divot. I'm not sure whether you got a junk bit or you did something wrong. When you drilled your holes, did you have the post lying on concrete? Did you keep the speed low (300 to 700 rpm)?


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Got a different brand of cobalt bit. Worked right away. ( although most of the hole was already done at this point)


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Got a different brand of cobalt bit.


It should work for you fairly well, as long as you don't chip it. It's the M42 (8% Cobalt) alloy I wrote about earlier, so it's very hard and should hold an edge really well, but somewhat more brittle than other types.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

HotRodx10 said:


> It should work for you fairly well, as long as you don't chip it. It's the M42 (8% Cobalt) alloy I wrote about earlier, so it's very hard and should hold an edge really well, but somewhat more brittle than other types.


I wonder what that other crap Milwaukee bit was made of.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> I wonder what that other crap Milwaukee bit was made of.


The Red Helix bits get high marks from most reviewers. Not sure if they're M35 or M42, but they're generally rated as high or higher than the Dewalt.


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## SpentPenny (Dec 15, 2020)

Half-fast eddie said:


> He said this in #23. Something isn’t right. If he has a 1/8” hole, the 3/8” bit should go through easily. Is this a scam discussion? Are we being played?
> 
> _ I got a hole through with the 1/8", but still can't with the 3/8"_


I agree that it looks like this whole thing is some kind of spoof. On the slight chance the OP is seriously this fouled up I suggest he put his drill down and go hire a neighbor kid to make the hole. It will only take a few minutes and be well worth paying the kid's allowance for the week.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

SpentPenny said:


> I agree that it looks like this whole thing is some kind of spoof. On the slight chance the OP is seriously this fouled up I suggest he put his drill down and go hire a neighbor kid to make the hole. It will only take a few minutes and be well worth paying the kid's allowance for the week.


I shouldn't even waste my time responding to this nonsense....

But obviously I know how to use a ****ing drill. And as soon as I bought a bit strong enough to go through, it went through like nothing. At first I thought maybe using the hammer damaged the bit, but that wasn't the case. You all are either underestimating the strength of the sign or overestimating the quality of the Milwaukee bit.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> I shouldn't even waste my time responding to this nonsense....
> 
> But obviously I know how to use a ****ing drill. And as soon as I bought a bit strong enough to go through, it went through like nothing. At first I thought maybe using the hammer damaged the bit, but that wasn't the case. You all are either underestimating the strength of the sign or overestimating the quality of the Milwaukee bit.



I told you early on, that you had bad bits.

ED


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> I told you early on, that you had bad bits.
> 
> ED


You sure I wasn't spinning the drill backwards 😆

Or maybe I should go get the neighbor kid so he can injure himself and his parents can sue me for $1 million!!!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> You sure I wasn't spinning the drill backwards 😆
> 
> Or maybe I should go get the neighbor kid so he can injure himself and his parents can sue me for $1 million!!!



I admit that drill in reverse, was my first thought, but you cleared that up, and as Holmes once said, when everything that is possible has been eliminated, the solution must be the unimaginable. 

Yes they are making GARBAGE tools now, and trying to pass them off as quality, by putting a good name on them.

Proof is that you bought a different brand, and it worked.

ED


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> Yes they are making GARBAGE tools now, and trying to pass them off as quality, by putting a good name on them.
> 
> Proof is that you bought a different brand, and it worked.


He may have gotten a defective bit, but the Milwaukee Red Helix bits, by all accounts, are* not* garbage. Also, being aable to finish one half-drilled hole is not proof of anything, really. That said, the Dewalt bits are purported to be very good. In fact, Pro Tool Reviews lists the Red Helix and the Dewalt Industrial as their 2 best for drilling carbon steel, which is what farmerjohn was drilling, so either one should have worked well.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

HotRodx10 said:


> He may have gotten a defective bit, but the Milwaukee Red Helix bits, by all accounts, are* not* garbage. Also, being aable to finish one half-drilled hole is not proof of anything, really. That said, the Dewalt bits are purported to be very good. In fact, Pro Tool Reviews lists the Red Helix and the Dewalt Industrial as their 2 best for drilling carbon steel, which is what farmerjohn was drilling, so either one should have worked well.



I once worked with a Minister, that had a favorite saying. 

Opinions are like Armpits, everyone has some, and most of them stink. 

Thank you for your opinion.

ED


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> Thank you for your opinion.


I haven't personally used either of those bits; I'm just going off what numerous tool reviewer have said. You can write off the Red Helix bits based on the report of one person using one bit, in a basically uncontrolled testing environment, but it's not convincing to me, considering all the evidence to the contrary.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

HotRodx10 said:


> I haven't personally used either of those bits; I'm just going off what numerous tool reviewer have said. You can write off the Red Helix bits based on the report of one person using one bit, in a basically uncontrolled testing environment, but it's not convincing to me, considering all the evidence to the contrary.



I write off anything that don't have " MADE IN U S A", on the package.

I have a set of bits that are at least 60 years old, in both the letter size, and the 1/16 size, up to 1/2 inch.

And a quick touchup on the drill doctor, and they drill great.


ED


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

HotRodx10 said:


> I haven't personally used either of those bits.


Then you're obviously an expert on the subject.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> I write off anything that don't have " MADE IN U S A", on the package.
> 
> I have a set of bits that are at least 60 years old, in both the letter size, and the 1/16 size, up to 1/2 inch.
> 
> ...


I think a lot of it may have been the shape of the tip. Look at the one that worked vs. the ones that didn't. (Btw, the 1/8" Milwaukee worked just fine).


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

de-nagorg said:


> I write off anything that don't have " MADE IN U S A", on the package.


I think it’s a function of the country where its made, and the intended market. Some industrialized countries (germany) make great tools. But if the market is ultra-price conscious consumers, the quality might not be there as much as commercial grade tools, regardless what the slick packaging says. 
Did you zoom in and look at the condition of the bits he posted in #86? I have never seen so many chewed up “new” bits.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> I think a lot of it may have been the shape of the tip. Look at the one that worked vs. the ones that didn't. (Btw, the 1/8" Milwaukee worked just fine).



The one on the left, looks like a hybrid for wood, and it won't cut steel " for sour Apples".

So it appears that you solved the question at hand.

ED


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Half-fast eddie said:


> I think it’s a function of the country where its made, and the intended market. Some industrialized countries (germany) make great tools. But if the market is ultra-price conscious consumers, the quality might not be there as much as commercial grade tools, regardless what the slick packaging says.
> Did you zoom in and look at the condition of the bits he posted in #86? I have never seen so many chewed up “new” bits.



I did after you posted, while I was posting the above text, , I have seen chewed up ones, if the bit was made from inferior steel, that you get from CHINA, they use anything that they can get their greedy hands on, to sell to us gullible Americans. 

As I said, my personal set is ancient, and proper care and prep, keeps them drilling , and drilling in steel, when I need to.

ED


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> Then you're obviously an expert on the subject.


I didn't claim to be an expert. I'm just a guy who's drilled a few holes in some metal and read up on the various types and brands of drill bits recently, for my own benefit. I was just sharing what I found from my own experience and that of others who are experts.



Half-fast eddie said:


> Did you zoom in and look at the condition of the bits he posted in #86? I have never seen so many chewed up “new” bits.


Wow, those are torn up pretty bad! No wonder they quit working. I wonder if that's due to the hammering action...I've had bits get dull, but never chipped like that.


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## BruceLem (Jan 25, 2020)

farmerjohn1324 said:


> I'm trying to drill through this parking sign. I have a 3/8" cobalt bit. It is making progress, but it's taking so long, I feel like there's probably a better way. I am using the hammer setting on this drill.


As others have said, use low speed and some cutting oil and a little bit of pressure.

If you need to buy a new drill bit, Dewalt bits seem to be among the best. This guy on Youtube tested a bunch of bits and Dewalt was among the best:


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

The video is interesting, but not a good comparison in some respects. as far as I could tell, the Bosch was the only Cobalt bit tested, so of course it went through even the spring steel easily. The rest were presumably HSS, so the Dewalt and Craftsman drilling the spring steel with the same weight was impressive, especially the Dewalt, which cut through the spring steel in almost the same time as much more expensive Bosch.

I'd like to see that type of test with the Cobalt bits from the various brands.


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## BruceLem (Jan 25, 2020)

HotRodx10 said:


> I'd like to see that type of test with the Cobalt bits from the various brands.


It seems that guy does a lot of testing and is always looking for new things to compare. Drop him a comment. It couldn't hurt.

PS- He also tested a bunch of driver bits and Dewalt was one of the best driver bits in that test too, and I can vouch for that. They really hold up for a long time.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

BruceLem said:


> It seems that guy does a lot of testing and is always looking for new things to compare. Drop him a comment. It couldn't hurt.
> 
> PS- He also tested a bunch of driver bits and Dewalt was one of the best driver bits in that test too, and I can vouch for that. They really hold up for a long time.


I might try commenting.

Yeah, I've found Dewalt driver bits to among the best. The Milwaukee and Bosch are the other ones I've used that held up well.


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## rjgogo (Nov 12, 2008)

Forget the drill press and the bits what you need is a plasma cutter. It will go right through that.

just kidding. All of this about a small hole in very thin metal. My guess is the drill was in reverse. This whole task should take about 45 seconds. Drill bit, make sure it is not in reverse, turn off hammer function. Drill then done.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

rjgogo said:


> Forget the drill press and the bits what you need is a plasma cutter. It will go right through that.
> 
> just kidding. All of this about a small hole in very thin metal. My guess is the drill was in reverse. This whole task should take about 45 seconds. Drill bit, make sure it is not in reverse, turn off hammer function. Drill then done.


I don't have patience to respond to this nonsense anymore. If it were this simple, I would have never made the thread in the first place.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> The one on the left, looks like a hybrid for wood, and it won't cut steel " for sour Apples".
> 
> So it appears that you solved the question at hand.
> 
> ED


It's labeled as cobalt and says "Hard Metal" on the packaging. But I'm pretty much done with this thread after having to listen to all this nonsense


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

That bit looks like a Dewalt Pilot Point bit. It drills a pilot hole and then the desired hole. It should go through the sign with ease.


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## rjgogo (Nov 12, 2008)

*Definition of Occam's razor*

: a scientific and philosophical rule that entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily which is interpreted as requiring that the simplest of competing theories be preferred to the more complex or that explanations of unknown phenomena be sought first in terms of known quantities
Source Merriam Webster. 

In short, the simplest solution is usually the correct solution. 

The simplest solution is one of three things, Hammer setting is dulling the bit, dull bit, or drill in reverse. From what I can tell, the bit has been replaced with a new one. The hammer function should be turned off, That leave the drill in reverse. There is nothing else that can cause this. Even the most crappy bit will make one hole, heck, I have sheet metal screws that have a built in drill bit and they work in materials like this. 

This is not hardened steel, it's not thick, there is no reason that a bit won't go through. See Occams razor.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

the O/Ps question has been answered and problem solved.
the sign has been installed and stands proudly in its designated place.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

rjgogo said:


> *Definition of Occam's razor*
> 
> : a scientific and philosophical rule that entities should not be multiplied unnecessarily which is interpreted as requiring that the simplest of competing theories be preferred to the more complex or that explanations of unknown phenomena be sought first in terms of known quantities
> Source Merriam Webster.
> ...


Get out of here with this nonsense.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

Jim Port said:


> That bit looks like a Dewalt Pilot Point bit. It drills a pilot hole and then the desired hole. It should go through the sign with ease.


Yes the DeWalt worked first time.


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