# HELP! Cannot detach water supply line



## jboggin (Sep 3, 2012)

Hi, I'm brand new to the whole DIY plumbing thing, and I'm trying to replace my bathroom faucet (I'm a new home owner). I started to remove the old bathroom faucet, and everything was going well until it came time to detach the water supply line. The sink I'm removing is a ball faucet, and the only place to remove the supply lines is at the shut-off valve. However, I'm finding it impossible to remove the lines from the supply valve. I'm not even sure it's possible because it seems to be completely attached. Could anyone give me any advice on how to proceed? I want to just get rid of these supply lines and replace them, but I can't get them unattached at all. I'm including links to the pictures of my problem, so hopefully that will help. I'm at a complete loss here 

img 1: http://imgur.com/2jbR4,kiHq8,KEP8O#0
img 2: http://imgur.com/2jbR4,kiHq8,KEP8O#1
img 3: http://imgur.com/2jbR4,kiHq8,KEP8O#2

Thanks in advance!


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

As you likely don't know how to solder I'd suggest using compression fittings:
Get a tubing cutter:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_330219-1687...ini+tubing+cutter&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

Cut copper tubing about 1" from existing valve.

Get 3/8" compression x 1/2" male pipe thread:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_27258-104-A...ompression Brass Coupling&CAWELAID=1023483493

You won't need the brass insert since you have copper lines (needed if plastic).

Get faucet supply:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_75746-104-L...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

Use pipe dope on threads to faucet supply hose end and brass 1/2" male thread and connect.

Now you can connect the faucet supply to the 3/8" copper line coming out of the existing shut off valve.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Good news---bad news----

Those lines are soldered on and can not be removed ---bad news--

Good news---the 1/2" lines behind the old shut offs are long enough to cut and install a new valve.

You will need a small tubing cutter--two Crescent wrenches--and two 1/4 turn angled shut off valves---1'2" (5/8" nominal)compression by 3/8"

Use Brass Craft from the home depot----they work well.others do not.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Bob types faster---good advice----


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## jboggin (Sep 3, 2012)

*thanks, another question*

Thank you Mike and Bob!. You're definitely right that I don't have the first idea about how to solder. Right now, I'm trying to read through both of your responses, and I'm a bit confused. Is Bob's telling me I can do the job without removing the shutoff valve and Mike's is telling me I need to remove the valve? I'd rather not remove the valve if possible because when I turned off the main water line to my house, I couldn't seem to get the water to stop flowing. Maybe I wasn't being patient enough, but the water seemed to slow but wouldn't stop.

The problem with not removing the valve and trying to reattach the existing wires after cutting them also seems to be that the supply line is attached directly to the sink and cannot be reattached there either. Is there a way to cut the existing line and attach a new line to the small piece of the existing line that is still attached to the valve?


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## jboggin (Sep 3, 2012)

Oh, and here's a picture of the part at the faucet that I'm talking about http://imgur.com/KYcz8 . Thanks again for both your help.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Cutting the pipe coming out of the wall and installing the new compressing shutoff is the way to go.
Then just cut the tubing again that goes to the faucet, remove the nuts under the faucet and just lift it out.

Open the faucet to relieve the pressure before cutting. Set a bowl sitting on a towel to catch the little bit of water that's going to leak out while your changing it.

By doing it the way Mike suggest you now can use new Stainless steel flex lines making it a whole lot faster to reconnect, and you will have a new valve that you know will shut off. They do go bad over time.
I attach the flex line to the new faucet before even dropping it in place.

That old main shut off is most likly a globe or gate style shut off, they never work. Think about having it changed to a ball valve.


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## jboggin (Sep 3, 2012)

*main shutoff*

Ok, but if the main shutoff isn't working right now, won't it be a disaster when i cut the pipe behind the shutoff valve under the sink?
\
Also, should I turn off the hot water heater when i turn off the main water line?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Are you on city water or a well?

A simple ansewer to your question can be ansewered by just opening up your faucet. How much comes out? Is it poring out or just a slow drip?
It's it's just a drip, cut the line.
The time to cut the line and install the new valve should be about 1 min.
(clean off the pipe before cutting to make sure there's not going to be anything stopping the nut and ferral from sliding on.)


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Go to the store and look at a compression shut off valve----slip it over a stick of half inch copper pipe and see how simple they are to install---
---cut the copper right behind the old bad valve---slip on the nut--then the brass ferrule --then the valve----hold the valve with a crescent wrench--tighten up the nut---that's it--job done.

If the main house shut off won't shut off completely---open every sink and hose bib--get some towels--and work quickly.

A tubing cutter is needed as the cut must be neat and clean----


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## orange (Feb 19, 2008)

Here's a video showing cutting the pipe, cleaning the pipe, installing the nut and ferrule, and attaching the valve, and tightening the nut ---
just as Mike described it!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQe-RGublN8


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

Passing by a perfectly good excuse to buy a propane torch and just get a mini-cutter instead. Haven't heard of any one burning down a house with a cutter though. 
jboggin, no need to shut off heater if no water running thru it while you do job. If you have more of a dribble than you are happy with after closing main, open a tap lower than where you are cutting, outside water hose? you wanta replace those shut offs, if they haven't been used for a while, they tend to dribble at the packing when you turn um back on. Sometimes dribble stops soon, sometimes needs new packing. If they do get used often the seat washer can get worn and won't shut off all the way. Instead of compression valve, (valve, you do want compression fitting valve) s ee if you can find compression fitting gate valve or better, a ball valve made to be all way on or all way off. ( Scroll back...yup oh'mike sed 1/4 turn, hokay just me typin stuff I didn't need to and I see joe likes ball valves too) I see you already disconnected the faucet, you still got an excuse to get one of these for puttin new one in, if you don't already got one.


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