# how would you fix this with a wall thats not straight?



## takkie (Oct 12, 2014)

hello

bought a house that has a new bathroom that was put in. Bathroom was 5 months old only.

the wall itself is not level to the ground, and the vanity itself eventually broke off from the wall. It was 'held' by caulking and some screws onto the dry wall.

How should i fix this gap? I tried to cut a tiny piece (triangular shape) of sheet rock, and stick it into the top and side edge - but the width is just too small, and each time when i cut, it just breaks.

i thought about cutting a piece of wood also, but i dont have a table saw to cut it straight. I do have a miter saw which i think i will use that.

but before i get into all that, want to see if others have a different opinion.

Thanks


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

takkie said:


> hello
> 
> bought a house that has a new bathroom that was put in. Bathroom was 5 months old only.
> 
> ...


 What is on the other side of that wall ? 



Find something about 6 ft long and straight and see if the wall has a big curve in it


----------



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

I agree with Neal - finding the curve is the first step and then what to do about it should be more apparent. Is the vanity level now?


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

The easiest/quickest fix might be to raise/shim the front of the cabinet so the back is flush with the wall. It would be easy to deal with the resulting gap at the kick plate.


----------



## tribe_fan (May 18, 2006)

Agree with mark sr - the installer probably missed a stud too. 



If there is still a gap - make a backsplash out of a row of tiles.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

tribe_fan said:


> Agree with mark sr - the installer probably missed a stud too.
> 
> 
> 
> If there is still a gap - make a backsplash out of a row of tiles.


So you think it was installed, not touching the floor in the front?


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've seen them shimmed where they meet the floor with the painter expected to caulk it to make it look ok.


----------



## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

I would put some shims under the toe kick in front to close up that gap between the top and the wall. Then see if you can find a stud or two and screw the cabinet to the wall to the wall. If the wall is bowed or whatever, not much you can do about it anyway.


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

A couple of pieces for backsplash and sidesplash are needed. You can make/buy from high pressure laminate, or spend a few extra bucks and get something really nice out of stone

On the side against the wall, putting in a filler strip at this point will be difficult but not impossible. Use wood, not drywall. Or take a 1x2, paint it wall color or cabinet color and nail it to the cabinet. Repair nail divots and touch up after mounting.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

But SPS-1 what does he do about the gap at the side of the counter?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

huesmann said:


> But SPS-1 what does he do about the gap at the side of the counter?


Door stop molding is 1/4x 1 1/4


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

huesmann said:


> But SPS-1 what does he do about the gap at the side of the counter?


Thats what the 1x2 is for. Or even better, a piece of molding as Neil suggested.

Might want to build the strip out a little at the top, so it follows the profile of the countertop.


----------



## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

Why don't you neatly cut the drywall from behind it and slide the whole thing back half an inch? Caulk over the rough edge of the drywall cut. Everything is nice and level and there are no weird gaps or random pieces of trim. 

Or, if you don't want to do that, you could scribe and cut the vanity itself.


----------

