# Mahogany Deck Installation - Before & After Pictures



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Before:









After:









Before: wobbly steps, Step tread depths too short, stringers not 16" O.C.










After: New Stringers, with correct Tread Depth Cuts, 16" O.C.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Before: Wobbly stairs, railing height not to code, loose railings, tread depths to short, etc...










After:


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

We Believe all Decks (Mahogany, Pressure Treated, composite, etc) should be handled and built - Like Fine Finish Carpentry. Some Details:


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)




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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

That looks nice, much better then my PT :thumbsup:
Did they have to replace some clapboard?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

FWIW - The Lower Deck Framework (Rimjoists/outer band-boards) needed a Pressure Washing. That later completed the Deck re-build/re-do.

BTW - You are looking at $5000.00 worth of Mahogany and Stainless Steel Nails and Trim Head Screws. 
That's the material cost alone. 
Demo, Disposal, Re-build, Joist hangers, Labor, New slider door & Install, siding work, etc, etc, - Those costs, were on top of that. 

I post this, to give members an Idea of the realistic "Costs" of such a project.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Scuba_Dave said:


> That looks nice, much better then my PT :thumbsup:
> Did they have to replace some clapboard?


They had Vinyl siding, painted the house's color, along the lower, siding course, by the deck. 
- The old siding (at that location) had rotted along time ago, and someone had installed that. The HO's wanted it replaced with Cedar, to match the rest of the house.

The problem was poor rain run-off, along that rear area. The old gutters had gotten ripped off a long time ago too, and the old deck had huge amounts of water dumped onto it. Thus, the heavy mildew & deck rot, along with Rotted siding, from rain water flow back-splash. Lack of sun, on the back side of the home = Area stays damp, and rarely dries out. Breeding ground for mildew and wood-rot.

Solution: We installed new seamless gutters, to avoid the heavy water/moisture that had damaged the old rear deck, and the old siding previously.

We believe in "fixing" the past causes of issues, so that those issues, don't harm any new work. With $5000.00 of Mahogany, we urged the HO's to protect their investment. (Pictures of the "fix" below).


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

New Gutter:
Color matched seamless upper gutter 55'+ typical residential sized. Left side downspout carrying only 1/3 of the length's run-off, down to a lower gutter. See comments below.









We don't believe in installing downspouts into other Gutter runs. That generally is not standard installation practice.
But in this case, the Client, did not want a downspout running down the side of the house, and thru the new deck. So we installed a commercial sized Gutter, with a Commercial sized downspout (larger/wider - able to handle increased flow capacity), to carry the rain water run-off from the 1/3 upper gutter length, along with it's own roof area flow.



















I quoted out the installation of a below grade drain line, to attach the downspout directly to, so that the water ran out, and away from the foundation. There was visible soil erosion around the foundation, especially in this location. But the HO opted to hold-off, on that (for now)....and just leave the downpsout with an extension on it.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Lastly, we urged the HO, at the outset of discussions on the Mahogony Material choice, to make a commitment to care for the hardwood deck.

Like having a pet, it would need regular care, not neglect.

They will need to pressure wash it every spring, and "possibly" fall too (due to it's location). The hard wood would need regular treatment with a quality sealer (for Mahogany), at those times, as well. 

I'd hate to see anyone throw away $5K worth of new Mahogany, because of neglect.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I did the downspout to gutter at my last house to run all the water out to a storm drain
This house I am going thru the deck with a gutter - but its in a corner
Most of my downspouts will go to rain barrels 1st, then overflow to drains

A lot of NE houses seem to like the look without downspouts/gutters
But it does lead to water intrusion
Both houses I have had to work to get the water away from the house

Funny - I'm worried about a 2' cantilever for my "bay" window
Then i see these 4' balconies that people have :laughing:

Thanks for the pics & details


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Atlantic, amazing work. You are truly one of kind.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

Nice work Atlantic.

Your timing is impeccable as we will be completing the decking on our rebuild in the next couple of weeks.

I may have plenty of questions for you.

Did you predrill and countersink the Mahogany?

How did you get such tight cuts around posts? It is Definitely as Fine as Furniture.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

drtbk4ever said:


> Nice work Atlantic.


Thankyou.



drtbk4ever said:


> Did you predrill and countersink the Mahogany?


 Yes



drtbk4ever said:


> How did you get such tight cuts around posts? It is Definitely as Fine as Furniture.


Use a speed-square, a really good jig-saw, adjustable clamps, solid work surface, very sharp pencil, & good tape measure....among other things

There are many factors that contribute to learning how to do precise cuts. Some are:

Learning how to read, and get comfortable with the detail measuring-marks on a tape measure (as opposed to only 1/2", or 1/4" round-offs). Most new DIYers, and New guys on the job, have a huge difficulty, reading measurements, then transferring them to the material to be cut (correctly) (as a newbi, many years ago, I did too). The other factor, is cutting the material properly, and in the right directions to hide splintering. 

Perhaps the 2nd most important factor (after properly reading measurements, and then tranferring them precisely to the material) - is to have, and use the "right" tools.
Use Sharp blades....Never use a dull blade. Use a good quality saw, with plenty of power. 
Learning how to properly use your saws; the thickness of the blade (how much material it takes off), the way it cuts, etc.

You must become the "*saw-whisperer*". :laughing:

Use sharp blades. Never use a dull blade. 
Use good quality (brand) saws, with plenty of power. 
Set -up proper cutting stations and surfaces (this increases your productivity and the quality of your work)

Be aware of the direction that the blade turns/cuts & splinters (Creates splinters), and always try to cut in the direction that will hide the splintering (splintered side hidden from view). 
Example: The side that will be most visible/noticible = do your clean cut on that side. If you do get splinters, sand them off with fine grit sand paper.


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## iMisspell (Jun 2, 2007)

Big difference, nice craftsmanship.
What was the total "work" time spent (not counting rain-delays, etc.) and how many people on the work crew ?

In this picture, what is the (???) gutter/troth thing on the top of the railing opposite of the house ?













A personal note, it looks alot better, but i kind of like how the bottom of the corner post (in picture above) of the old railing hangs below the deck beveled to a point, but thats just me 



_


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

iMisspell said:


> Big difference, nice craftsmanship.
> 
> In this picture, what is the (???) gutter/troth thing on the top of the railing opposite of the house ?


If you look that is a trick of the light
Sun is shining on the that section of 2x top railing
Making it seem to dissappear (blends into the sky)


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Looking good! Around here they would require a grasp-able handrail on the stair guard-rail for safety. Also the over 4" space under the open risers would not be allowed for safety reasons. But check your *local* building department for compliance, anyone, as they may be different. What passes here, may not pass in your locale. I see next year's work, add ridge and soffit vents, close gable vents, and cut step siding to elevate it away from the roof splash. lol
What a change, it looks nice. Good job! 
Be safe, G


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

GBAR in WA said:


> Around here they would require a grasp-able handrail on the stair guard-rail for safety.


Yes, grasp rails code requirements are different from town to town in both NH and MA. In some towns it is required on all decks. Other towns (in the same state, using the same code book), only require it on commercial exterior stairs, or multi-family units, but not on residential. I've had inspectors look at me like I have two heads, when I asked them what they want to see (if they want grasp rails installed), on a particular residential project. 



GBAR in WA said:


> I see next year's work, add ridge and soffit vents, close gable vents,...


 Don't forget to also install rafter baffles too, when doing that (part of the equation). :wink:
We just did an installation process exactly like that on a roofing project last month.



GBAR in WA said:


> Also the over 4" space under the open risers would not be allowed for safety reasons. But check your *local* building department for compliance, anyone, as they may be different....


Yes, it's different here; open webs under stair treads (riser locations) are allowed. One reason is to have a location for snow to be pushed-off, and thru the area.



GBAR in WA said:


> .....and cut step siding to elevate it away from the roof splash....


Siding, very close to the deck surface: We always install a miniumum of 1.5" + above.... But, the HO wanted it done that way. It should be fine, with the gutters installed, and all sides of the new cedar siding sealed.

Thanks for the input.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

GBAR in WA said:


> Looking good! Around here they would require a grasp-able handrail on the stair guard-rail for safety. Also the over 4" space under the open risers would not be allowed for safety reasons. But check your *local* building department for compliance, anyone, as they may be different. What passes here, may not pass in your locale. I see next year's work, add ridge and soffit vents, close gable vents, and cut step siding to elevate it away from the roof splash. lol
> What a change, it looks nice. Good job!
> Be safe, G




Yep, the same in MN, at least in the Twin Cities metro area. 

I no longer live in the metro; were I live now you only need a permit for a deck if you live on a lake. (just want to make sure you have to proper set back from the shore line.) 

I am sure that is going to change soon though.


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## iMisspell (Jun 2, 2007)

Scuba_Dave said:


> If you look that is a trick of the light
> Sun is shining on the that section of 2x top railing
> Making it seem to dissappear (blends into the sky)


Ahhh... thanks, after you pointed that out it all makes sence 

_


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

Nice job Atlantic. When I first looked at the pictures, I thought it was posted by a DIYer and said to myself, "Wow... Looks pro". This is the quality of work that all DIYers strive for.
Could you share how much the homeowner spent on that? Understood if you don't want to reveal.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Clutchcargo said:


> Nice job Atlantic. When I first looked at the pictures, I thought it was posted by a DIYer and said to myself, "Wow... Looks pro". This is the quality of work that all DIYers strive for.
> Could you share how much the homeowner spent on that? Understood if you don't want to reveal.


PM Sent.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

That's beautiful! The workmanship is outstanding. :thumbsup:


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## susanrk (Jan 6, 2011)

very nice..!!!


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