# Bryant Model 310AAV/JAV - Code 13/33



## acrawley (Nov 15, 2011)

My furnace stopped working a couple days ago and is flashing code 33 then after a couple minutes starts flashing 13. The day the furnace stopped working was extremely windy so I assume it was a flame rollout issue. I've found 2 sensors (one on each side of the burners) with what looks like a button located in the middle. I've pressed both but there was not clicking like it had reset. Still doesn't start up. Also, the blower runs continuously even when turning off the heat at the thermostat. What else should I be checking?


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

Could be a tripped spill switch at the base of the flue pipe......the only way to check these is with a ohm meter. a good switch will have continuity through it.the limit/roll out circuit is designated with red wires. TURN OFF THE POWER BEFORE CHECKING THESE SWITCHES.

if YOU FIND THAT ONE IS TRIPPED ITS A SIGN OF A BIGGER AND MUCH MORE SERIOUS ISSSUE..............do not just replace the switch, find out why its open.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The spill switches/rollout switches are in series with the main high temp limit switch which is above the burners. It may be open/shot from poor airflow thru the furnace and constant cycling.


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## acrawley (Nov 15, 2011)

Ok, so I guess I need to go pick up an ohm meter.

Do you think that the extremely high winds would have had anything to do with this?

And what does it mean that the blower constantly runs?

Thanks so much for helping me out on this.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Possible that the high winds didn't allow the hot fumes to exhaust properly so the furnace got extremely hot and tripped a limit, yes. I'd have to assume yes anyways.

A limit (or rollout) tripping cuts all normal control off to a furnace, only allowing the blower to come on to push any excessive heat out, excessive heat being what trippped the switch.


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## acrawley (Nov 15, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> Possible that the high winds didn't allow the hot fumes to exhaust properly so the furnace got extremely hot and tripped a limit, yes. I'd have to assume yes anyways.
> 
> A limit (or rollout) tripping cuts all normal control off to a furnace, only allowing the blower to come on to push any excessive heat out, excessive heat being what trippped the switch.


Thanks.

So do I did to get new switches or how do I reset them? As I said in OP there are 2 sensors on each side of the burners that have a button on them but they don't seem to reset when pressing them.


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## NitrNate (May 27, 2010)

the limit switch automatically resets when the temperature drops back down to an acceptable range. the manual reset switches that you are talking about are probably the flame rollout switches.

the limit switch looks like a rectangle screwed into the back panel that will have a temp on it like 210 and then another temp for the offset, like 30 or 40.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

acrawley said:


> Thanks.
> 
> So do I did to get new switches or how do I reset them? As I said in OP there are 2 sensors on each side of the burners that have a button on them but they don't seem to reset when pressing them.


 
Those switches are not going to click when you reset them. You'd need an meter to ohm them out or to test continuity through them. More than likely they are reset but those are not the ones that are tripped. Those are flame rollout sensors which act in the exact same manner as a high temperature limit switch only the flame literally is what touches it and heats it up as it "rolls out" of it's compartment. I think those are them anyways.

You can also go to an electronics store and buy some small gator clip jumper wires (set of 10 for $5 over here) and jump (bypass) each switch to find out which one is tripped. Simply pull the two wires off of one switch at a time and connect the gator clip to each wire successfully bypassing the switch and when the furnace finally turns on normally then you replace that switch.

Please do not leave switch bypassed, they are all there for a very good reason. Replace it (some are non resettable) and hook it back up. Your home not burning to the ground will thank you for it.


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

hey doc.......how do I put a signature on my post automaticly? I cant find it in my profile section ? thanks ahead of time


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

I'm not certain Hrider, but beenthere is the hvac moderator. I'd ask him or oh'mike or Danger Mouse. All moderators.


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

I finally found it....thanks


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

There is no hvac moderator, we all moderate everywhere. 

I see you found UserCP though. Good deal.

DM


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## acrawley (Nov 15, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> Those switches are not going to click when you reset them. You'd need an meter to ohm them out or to test continuity through them. More than likely they are reset but those are not the ones that are tripped. Those are flame rollout sensors which act in the exact same manner as a high temperature limit switch only the flame literally is what touches it and heats it up as it "rolls out" of it's compartment. I think those are them anyways.
> 
> You can also go to an electronics store and buy some small gator clip jumper wires (set of 10 for $5 over here) and jump (bypass) each switch to find out which one is tripped. Simply pull the two wires off of one switch at a time and connect the gator clip to each wire successfully bypassing the switch and when the furnace finally turns on normally then you replace that switch.
> 
> Please do not leave switch bypassed, they are all there for a very good reason. Replace it (some are non resettable) and hook it back up. Your home not burning to the ground will thank you for it.


Thanks Doc! The switch/sensor located right above the burners is out. I bypassed it and the furnace kicked on.

Now, where do I get one of these sensors? And should I be concerned that this is just a symptom of a bigger problem?


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

That would be the primary limit, it is a monitor of the air flow through /over the heat exchanger(s). When this limit trips (we pro's call it "open") it means the air flow across the limit in insufficient to carry away all the heat being made, and the furnace has reached a unsafe operating temperature, the main control board will stop the burner operation and initiate the blower operation on high. burner operation will not be allowed again until the limit closes again.

Most probable cause of this (and most common as well) is a dirty filter, and/or evaporator coil that is plugged.


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## acrawley (Nov 15, 2011)

harleyrider said:


> That would be the primary limit, it is a monitor of the air flow through /over the heat exchanger(s). When this limit trips (we pro's call it "open") it means the air flow across the limit in insufficient to carry away all the heat being made, and the furnace has reached a unsafe operating temperature, the main control board will stop the burner operation and initiate the blower operation on high. burner operation will not be allowed again until the limit closes again.
> 
> Most probable cause of this (and most common as well) is a dirty filter, and/or evaporator coil that is plugged.


Thanks harleyrider. I checked the filter and it was filthy so I changed it. I also removed the limit switch and the backside of it was covered in dirt. I cleaned it off and re-installed it to see if the furnace would start and sure enough it did. Could it have been as simple as a dirty filter and dirty switch? Or should I make sure and purchase a new limit switch?


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

acrawley said:


> Thanks harleyrider. I checked the filter and it was filthy so I changed it. I also removed the limit switch and the backside of it was covered in dirt. I cleaned it off and re-installed it to see if the furnace would start and sure enough it did. Could it have been as simple as a dirty filter and dirty switch? Or should I make sure and purchase a new limit switch?


 
In the interest of being correct, a temperature rise should be performed on the furnace. This is a measure of the supply air, and the return air. The difference between the two is your delta T or temperature rise.On the manufactures plate located some were on that furnace it will list the proper temperature rise (such as 55-75) degrees Fahrenheit. if you are in that range then your problem is solved. BTW, a 1 in wide filter, regardless of what it says on the store wrapper should be changed every 30 days.To answer your question about the limit it self......it should be fine if you keep your filter clean.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

I would replace the switch (americanhvacparts.com) and check the airflow thru the unit. underside of ac coil needs to be clean and ductwork clean and all vents and registers in rooms open. once that switch pops open and closed a bunch of times it loses it's accuracy and strength and will fail again. should have a rating on it like 170 degF. Need to get the right Carrier/Bryant one and the length matters as well as the operating temps.


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

yuri said:


> I would replace the switch (americanhvacparts.com) and check the airflow thru the unit. underside of ac coil needs to be clean and ductwork clean and all vents and registers in rooms open. once that switch pops open and closed a bunch of times it loses it's accuracy and strength and will fail again. should have a rating on it like 170 degF. Need to get the right Carrier/Bryant one and the length matters as well as the operating temps.


Yuri, would you not agree that if the tempature rise is good, most likely the evap is clean?

I do agree that its always a good idea to clean the ducts, and the coil.....and the blower wheel for that matter as well.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The coil should be visually inspected yearly anyway. Some of those Bryant/Carriers have 170 or 180 deg limits and other brands do too. VERY easy to hit that temp if the coil is a bit dirty and undersized ductwork is also a huge problem. The old days of 200-250 deg limits are gone. When you read 130 downstream it can actually be 150-170 inside the furnace by the heat exchanger.


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## acrawley (Nov 15, 2011)

Thanks everyone for the help and tips!


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## Primetime21 (Oct 17, 2013)

I think I have the same problem as acrawley. I checked my filter and it was pretty dirty. I changed it out but need to check the limit switch. Can someone point out on the picture above where that is located. 
FYI, my furnace is a Bryant 310AAV/JAV.
Thanks, John.


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## firedawgsatx (Jul 15, 2013)

Look behind the gas valve and it will have a red wire on each side. I circled it in green in the photo.


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## Primetime21 (Oct 17, 2013)

*switch*

Great, thanks. I'll check when I get home tonight.


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