# How do I patch this 1950s sheetrock/wallboard/drywall?



## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

*Edit: Solved - basically rock lath, pre-drywall drywall. New update is that I have a tub leaking into a kitchen ceiling and now have a much larger hole to repair and need some insight on patching. The hole (presently) is approximately 10 inches in diamter, roughly an oval shape. *

Recently moved in to this house and making some changes to a closet is my first small project. After removing some of the supports that the clothes bar rests on, some of the wall cracked away.

The home was build in 1952 and I was not and am still not sure what type of walls we have. I was worried they were plaster but doesn't seem to be the case (at least in this closet).

I took a screwdriver and hammered through the open spot to see if I would hit any lathe...busted through after some firm whacking and didn't hit anything behind it.

Don't have any readily accessible areas where I can view the backside of similar material.

Hoping to figure this out for three main reasons 1) general knowledge 2) Asbestos possibility 3) so I can repair correctly.

Appreciate your insight!!


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

That is early drywall, it was 16" wide.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Nealtw said:


> That is early drywall, it was 16" wide.


Thanks, Neal. 

Are you certain of the top picture as well, do they look like the same material? 

Should I be concerned with asbestos?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

In the second photo there is a scrap to the right in the photo, do the guts look the same. 
I do not know about asbestos in the early product.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> Thanks, Neal.
> 
> Are you certain of the top picture as well, do they look like the same material?
> 
> Should I be concerned with asbestos?


This info may help you.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Not drywall. That is rock lath covered with veneer plaster.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Nealtw said:


> In the second photo there is a scrap to the right in the photo, do the guts look the same.
> I do not know about asbestos in the early product.


Good idea, just checked again.

They are definitely NOT the same. 

The second pic is typical drywall material up until the back paper. 

The first pic is very thin white material/veneer, and then behind that it seems like the rest of the board is that brown color. It isn't a paper feel, but rather a rocky gritty feel. I can scrape some away with my fingernail but it is very tough/hard.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rugg3r said:


> Good idea, just checked again.
> 
> They are definitely NOT the same.
> 
> ...


The early stuff was sold as a lath for plaster walls, so you likely have a plaster over it, it is instead of the older wood slats.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Here are two more pictures. There are shadow lines at 16 inches. 

Also a close up of the hole area. The white layer on top of the core is _very _thin. Is that how thin you would expect it to be? Looks to be about 1/16th inch thick, maybe a tiny bit thicker.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> Here are two more pictures. There are shadow lines at 16 inches.
> 
> Also a close up of the hole area. The white layer on top of the core is _very _thin. Is that how thin you would expect it to be? Looks to be about 1/16th inch thick, maybe a tiny bit thicker.
> 
> ...


Every thing looks very normal for the plaster system used.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

It might be a shim coat over the board


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

As noted in post #6 it's rock lath [narrow sheets of drywall] covered with plaster. Common for that time period.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

mark sr said:


> As noted in post #6 it's rock lath [narrow sheets of drywall] covered with plaster. Common for that time period.


Here is more info on Rock Lath.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Every thing looks very normal for the plaster system used.


Thank you. Thoughts on asbestos? 

Any additional thoughts on patching/repair? I am a total newbie/amateur.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> Thank you. Thoughts on asbestos?
> 
> Any additional thoughts on patching/repair? I am a total newbie/amateur.


As for it containing Asbestos the only way to know is to have it tested.
Some plaster base coats during that period of time would have contained some Asbestos.
But seeing that the base is a Brown color i don't think it does but it should be tested.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

ClarenceBauer said:


> As for it containing Asbestos the only way to know is to have it tested.
> Some plaster base coats during that period of time would have contained some Asbestos.
> But seeing that the base is a Brown color i don't think it does but it should be tested.


By base do you mean the gypsum or the plaster trawled on top? Maybe in my beginnerness I'm mistaken but the gypsum looks brown and the plaster veneer looks white?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> By base do you mean the gypsum or the plaster trawled on top? Maybe in my beginnerness I'm mistaken but the gypsum looks brown and the plaster veneer looks white?


The system you have (1) Gypsum Board nailed to studs This may contain asbestos?
(2) A base coat applied to Gypsum board, the Brown color in photo Could contain Asbestos.
(3) A white Finish coat troweled smooth thickness is normally somewhere between 1/16" & 1/8".


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

ClarenceBauer said:


> The system you have (1) Gypsum Board nailed to studs This may contain asbestos?
> (2) A base coat applied to Gypsum board, the Brown color in photo Could contain Asbestos.
> (3) A white Finish coat troweled smooth thickness is normally somewhere between 1/16" & 1/8".





ClarenceBauer said:


> The system you have (1) Gypsum Board nailed to studs This may contain asbestos?
> (2) A base coat applied to Gypsum board, the Brown color in photo Could contain Asbestos.
> (3) A white Finish coat troweled smooth thickness is normally somewhere between 1/16" & 1/8".


I simply thought the brown color WAS the gypsum board, as it appears like the whole board all the way through is that color?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> I simply thought the brown color WAS the gypsum board, as it appears like the whole board all the way through is that color?


What is the total thickness from the finish surface to the back of the gypsum board?


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

Looks somewhat like celotex sheeting


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

rusty baker said:


> Looks somewhat like celotex sheeting


Celotex would have fibers i don't see signs of fiber.
The OP stated it feels " Rocky & Gritty "?


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Celotex would have fibers i don't see signs of fiber.
> The OP stated it feels " Rocky & Gritty "?


Definitely gritty and very hard. If I do scrape a tiny bit off with fingernail, it reminds me of small grains of sand.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> Definitely gritty and very hard. If I do scrape a tiny bit off with fingernail, it reminds me of small grains of sand.


That would indicate to me that it is a sand based gypsum base over the gypsum lath.
Again check the total thickness this info would very much help to determine if it is a Rock lath system.


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

Looks very similar to what was in the homes built in my neighborhood in the mid to late 1950's. The area was an inner ring suburb in an upscale upper middle class area. The lots were lot and very forested and was geared towards executives, high end sales people and the likes. The city was Edina, MN. 
The builder was transitioning from lathe and plaster to the more modern drywall and this was the material he used. My dad insisted on using double sheets with a glue bond. Which was a pain in the ass when I had to do remodels when I bought the house from my Mom. But, there were NO cracks in the drywall in the 50 odd years my family was in the house. Not in the corners, along a seam, anywhere!!

Which is surprising as the neighborhood wanted to give a 6' level to the builder as a present. None of the walls were level. But, they were all true. The doors were all plumb and square but when you went to replace them, the rough openings were obscene. But, he built well over 100 homes in the area and the majority are still standing and very few have been torn down and turned into Mc'Mansions!


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

ktownskier said:


> Looks very similar to what was in the homes built in my neighborhood in the mid to late 1950's. The area was an inner ring suburb in an upscale upper middle class area. The lots were lot and very forested and was geared towards executives, high end sales people and the likes. The city was Edina, MN.
> The builder was transitioning from lathe and plaster to the more modern drywall and this was the material he used. My dad insisted on using double sheets with a glue bond. Which was a pain in the ass when I had to do remodels when I bought the house from my Mom. But, there were NO cracks in the drywall in the 50 odd years my family was in the house. Not in the corners, along a seam, anywhere!!
> 
> Which is surprising as the neighborhood wanted to give a 6' level to the builder as a present. None of the walls were level. But, they were all true. The doors were all plumb and square but when you went to replace them, the rough openings were obscene. But, he built well over 100 homes in the area and the majority are still standing and very few have been torn down and turned into Mc'Mansions!


Small world....I have always thought that our little inner-ring suburb was a lot like Edina. i grew up right around that area, and skied a lot, too. 

I'll try and get a measurement of the board tomorrow.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

ClarenceBauer said:


> That would indicate to me that it is a sand based gypsum base over the gypsum lath.
> Again check the total thickness this info would very much help to determine if it is a Rock lath system.


I'm not able to get a caliper into the wall nor do I have a cut out to measure; however, using a paperclip I was able to estimate/measure the thickness to be 5/8 inch.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> I'm not able to get a caliper into the wall nor do I have a cut out to measure; however, using a paperclip I was able to estimate/measure the thickness to be 5/8 inch.


Based on the measurements i would say it is a Rock Lath system your measurements are about 1/8" less than what standards are for that system.
Depending on how large of an area needs repair would determine what material would be required.
For very small area use a Setting compound like Durabond for very large areas that require a base coat replacement use a Perlite base coat & a Veneer Plaster finish.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Thanks, all. 

If I have the time today I'll see if i can remove the light switch and see if anything is visible. 

Separately, I think in this particular application I have decided to line the walls with cedar planks (since it's a closet). What should I expect in the corners where I would more than likely be nailing the plans in with finishing nails? Hoping there are studs in each corner, but would there also be some kind of flashing or metal meshing? Any other tips if I'm going to be attaching those planks?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> Thanks, all.
> 
> If I have the time today I'll see if i can remove the light switch and see if anything is visible.
> 
> Separately, I think in this particular application I have decided to line the walls with cedar planks (since it's a closet). What should I expect in the corners where I would more than likely be nailing the plans in with finishing nails? Hoping there are studs in each corner, but would there also be some kind of flashing or metal meshing? Any other tips if I'm going to be attaching those planks?


As related to the plaster system there may be a Corner Rite ( metal Lath ) in the corner but it will not affect application of what you select to install on the walls. Nailing should not be a problem.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Any tips for finding the studs behind this type of material? Have tried two nice stud finders with pretty inconsistent results. Perhaps the magnets are the only option left, but wanted to check with you all to see if anything I'm missing.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)




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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Update with a couple more photos, decided to cut a chunk out - hopefully this provides a bit more detail. 

Anyone's opinion change on what it is?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Rugg3r said:


> Update with a couple more photos, decided to cut a chunk out - hopefully this provides a bit more detail.
> 
> Anyone's opinion change on what it is?


If you go back to the cut sheets in previous post it will make it clear that it is Rock Lath.


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Just want to be sure, and share updated photos since I took a piece out. There aren't many good photos of rock lath online strangely enough. I'm sending this piece out for asbestos testing. 

Any recommendations how to patch holes in this stuff? as in, the hole i just created from the above piece?


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

What is the best option to patch this type of wall, that I could the re-drill into? Used a drywall anchor type screw when trying to hang up a curtain rod. Not sure what happened but it ended up ripping out. There's probably a 1/2 inch hole all the way through, with some crumbling around it. 

Ideally I'd fill it with something, then be able to drill in a new anchor piece to finish the rod. 

Thoughts?


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## Rugg3r (Aug 4, 2020)

Rugg3r said:


> What is the best option to patch this type of wall, that I could the re-drill into? Used a drywall anchor type screw when trying to hang up a curtain rod. Not sure what happened but it ended up ripping out. There's probably a 1/2 inch hole all the way through, with some crumbling around it.
> 
> Ideally I'd fill it with something, then be able to drill in a new anchor piece to finish the rod.
> 
> Thoughts?


Bump 

Had a bathtub leak into the ceiling kitchen so now have a much larger hole to repair. Approximately 10-12 inch diameter jagged circle shape.


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