# Need to Jack up part of my house....



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

What is under the new wall you plan to build? Will it support the weight? If it is only the concrete floor it may not be suitable. You may need to break the floor and install a footing.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

It appears that the floor joists do not have joist hangers. Start by installing joist hangers and then a support beam.


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Thanks all, the wall will go over/on the basement floor. With joist hangers installed, and then the wall wouldn't be supporting soooooo much weight, no way I'm putting in afooter. Here's so updated pics...

My strategy for floor jacking, 4 sets of what you see in the drawing.










Kitchen floor already done, with new hangers.










The previous HO diy'er wall to stop the sagging, the same location I intend to build a proper wall. 









Thoughts?


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

How thick is the main beam? Unable to tell by the picture.
The main beam should be able to handle the weight of the joists if properly speced by an architect. 
How you added any major weight above these points? 
Have you added a larger whirpool tub or other heavy item that would make the joists fail?
Have any support (load bearing) walls been removed from near this area?


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

The Main beam is 3 2x12's nailed/glued together. It spans about 40 ft i'd guess, rests on the concrete basement wall on one end, runs over 2 round metal posts and terminates at a wall. Nothing heavy has been added by us, nothing has been taken away either. All walls in basement are not original, except one, the one the beam terminates on.

I think the wall is not neccesary as you may be suggesting, as it was built this way originally. I don't have to build it, frankly it would be nice not to have the wall.

It has been my dads suggestions, althought I have argued if it was built to code and to the design specifications, it should be fine with just new joist hangers. He pointed out that it failed so maybe it wan't built to specifications, or they were wrong. I pointed out it was nailed enought, he agreed. We don't know the proper answer.

The beam is not sagging, nor does it appear defective in any way to my untrained eyes. They joist however are obviously not where they were originally....


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

harleysilo said:


> .
> 
> I think the wall is not neccesary as you may be suggesting, as it was built this way originally. I don't have to build it, frankly it would be nice not to have the wall.
> 
> ...



If the main beam is level and sound then just raise (jack) the joist(s) up to the proper level and then install the joist hangers. You may want to place the jack about a foot or two back from the main beam but located under the joist. This will give you room to install the joist hangers and nail them properly. Joist hangers are superior to the 2 by 2 that the joists rest on now. When you install the joist hangers you must use the proper size nails and you must have a nail in all the holes in the hanger for proper load support.


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Well, $300 later and about 9 hrs by myself and jacking has comenced....

I'll post the results on Monday, pics included....

Looks like my 3 setups are getting all joist except the one under one wall, so one more 20 ton'er on the end of one 4x6 beam and that should do it.


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

So Jacking comenced this weekend... one of three setups...










Pic doesn't show it, but success regard the kitchen wall










Re-hung floor joist after jacking...., double joist under kitchen wall fully nailed, replaced 2x2 ledger, however I left one jack under that joist which will be removed once the support wall is built..










So the other wall in question didn't really move as expected, this wall, between to openings, place one foot away from main beam, on the floor joists...










So I happened to bump into the metal post that was originally installed underneath the main beam (there are two), sure enough, in the process the main beam rose about .5 inch. Metal post just hanging there by two nails. So I secured the joists under the kitchen wall and let everything back down onto the metal post, allbeit everything (floor joists) are still .5 inch higher than the were before I started...as evident in this pic of the previous DIY'er wall header staying attached to the jacked joists.


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

So, I'm at a crossroads, I can either call it quits on the jacking, I've got the major area of concern (wall in kitchen) "fixed". This would require I use some SLC in my tile installation, no biggee, or I can hang the joists underneath the two large openings leading to living room, reposition my jack to concentrat on lifting only the wall.

Best pic I could come up with to descripe it...


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

"So the other wall in question didn't really move as expected, this wall, between to openings, place one foot away from main beam, on the floor joists..."



Is this a load bearing wall to the second floor?



(the pictures are a little dark - difficult to see the results)


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Yes, I think (read that don't really know but don't see how it couldn't be) it is a load bearing wall to 2nd floor.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

That wall should have been located on the main beam. If there is considerable amount weight on the second floor (ie. large bathroom tub, whirlpool...) then this would put more strain on these lower floor joists.

May want to located a support wall under these joists for additional support.

:thumbsup:


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Well here's some pics of the new load bearing wall I built in place of the other crappy wall..... 


































So 90% of the un-level floor was fixed in the jacking process. I believe this wall plus all the joist hangers will prevent any further movement, so it's time for more plywood upstairs, and the hanging of kitchen cabinets! Yea!


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Did you just buy this house?


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Yes, june 1st. Yeah you'd thought the inspector would have mentioned it. What am I going to do, pony up the cash to take them to court?


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Hey ya'll! So as stated above I finished the support wall, other than fixing that header, but I'm not to the tile yet so I'm letting it ride for now!
My father came down this weekend, and after 2 days of work we've got the majority of the cabinets installed. First time for both of us, the cabinets are as level and plumb as possible (some of the faces were slightly warped etc). So once I finish the island, it's time to get the countertop guys out here. Some pics...
























And the center island (just sitting their for now)..not it's actual location


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

When installing cabinets it is best if you find the high spot of the floor and then make a level line at the height of your cabinet (top). The level line you will use to shim your cabinets to.

little late for this advice but others may ask.

:thumbup:


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

I hadn't though about including tips I learned.....

Same as Redline mentioned, except check the wall you will be installing cabinets on, and find the place where the wall sticks out the most to get a rough line to follow for the front of your cabinets.

Don't forgot to take into account future flooring, might have to raise cabinets as I did to account for say tile work, important so that undercabinet appliances have ample room.

Check levelness of ceiling, just so you know how difficult crown molding may or may not be to install, if you so choose.

Of course carefully mark the exact location of all studs in the room, don't forget to include yourself. haha

If you order cabinets from say a lowe's or something, don't expect any help after the fact, and make sure you know the intended use of each little piece that comes with your delivery....


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Any other major projects that you have to do to the house?


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Well, I have to finish the kitchen cabinets, and then it's time to 

.5)finish removing carpet in hallway, and demo guest bathroom floor
1) install the durarock
2) install all the tile approx. 700 sq.ft
3)at some point during that process figure out what I'm going to do with the front door (replace or repair)
4)replace all of the doorway casing I removed for tile work
5)replace all of the baseboards
6)repaint all walls door casings and trim

That finishes the current project.

We also have a ton of yardwork/landscaping I want to do.
We also have a master bath I want to totally redo, i.e. remove garden tub and replace with giant walk-in two shower head shower with heatlamp and steamer.

There is also a area 1/3 the size of the basement, in the basement, that a previous homeowner had started to finish. However he installed a raised floor that needs to be removed and his walls are only 1/4 inch away from the poured foundation.

There is more as well.

Why do you ask?


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

harleysilo said:


> Yes, june 1st. Yeah you'd thought the inspector would have mentioned it. What am I going to do, pony up the cash to take them to court?


The home inspector should have found this.

When you finish the kitchen - send some updated photos.:thumbup:


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

harleysilo said:


> Why do you ask?



You seem to have made good progress with it so far. :thumbup:


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## harleysilo (Jun 19, 2006)

Well, I'm getting closer!!!

*







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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

looks good.:thumbup: 
Is this the first kitchen remodel that you have taken on?


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