# Fill Crack with Silicone?



## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

I have a joint compound crack running up the joint between wall and ceiling. I suspect the proper fix is to replace the tape and compound. However, could I forgo all that by chipping away loose compound and then filling the gap with a paintable silicone? 

It is a high ceiling ranging from 11' to 17.5 ft, so it won't be very visible. However, I don't want the repair to fail. Can I take this short-cut without compromise?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

SInce you have a textured wall and ceiling you kind of stuck. If you mess with it to much it's next to impossible to get it to match.
Do not use silicone. Try Alex 230 caulking. Apply a thin bead, wipe it with your finger, then wipe it off with a damp sponge.


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## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

joecaption said:


> SInce you have a textured wall and ceiling you kind of stuck. If you mess with it to much it's next to impossible to get it to match.
> Do not use silicone. Try Alex 230 caulking. Apply a thin bead, wipe it with your finger, then wipe it off with a damp sponge.


Thanks, I'll try it. Why is it better than silicone? 

I'm not too concerned about matching the texture; I'm surprised at all the imperfections I see on the ceiling when I am on a ladder that I don't see from the floor.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Silicone can not be painted, Even some of the so called siliconeized caulks do not hold paint all that well.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Never- ever EVER use silicone ANYWHERE that will EVER need paint. Ever.

It will repel paint and is nearly impossible to remove. If it doesn't say paintable, it isn't. 

Sorry for the shouting- but this is a terrible mistake made way too often. 

Get a PAINTABLE caulk- like JS said- and your good to go.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> Never- ever EVER use silicone ANYWHERE that will EVER need paint. Ever.
> 
> It will repel paint and is nearly impossible to remove. If it doesn't say paintable, it isn't.
> 
> ...


:laughing:You probably got confused by the correct advice coming from Joecaption, and just seeing JOE, you assumed it was me:laughing:. Alas, it couldn't be me, I would never rec Alex caulk. :thumbup:


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## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

jsheridan said:


> :laughing:You probably got confused by the correct advice coming from Joecaption, and just seeing JOE, you assumed it was me:laughing:. Alas, it couldn't be me, I would never rec Alex caulk. :thumbup:


What about AS 850A acrylic latex?

That would be Sherwin Williams 850A. Damn auto correct!


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Any quality, brand name siliconized caulk will do fine. You're good to go with 850.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Just look for the word- PAINTABLE..


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## ric knows paint (Oct 26, 2011)

There's been a lot of discussion here lately about silicone and whether it should ever be used in conjunction with a paint job. Some people swear by it...others hate it...some people claim it's not really a caulk, nor an adhesive. Personally, I use pure silicone caulk frequently in both painted and non-painted areas - both as a caulking and adhesive..but to each his (or her) own.

Silicone is truly and absolutely a water repellant (not water resistant)...Water and silicone do not, cannot and will not mix together. Unlike water reducible alkyds, water-borne alkyds and alkyd modified latexes that blend seemingly dissimilar resins through emulsification, these 2 components (silicone and water) will never be made compatible - nor paintable (at least with conventional, architectural coatings).

But now we're talking about paintable silicones and _siliconized_ latex caulks. Here's how they work. Siliconized latex caulk is latex caulk that contains no more silicone than 1/2% of the total solids by volume. The silicone's efficacy is only about 3-6 months once the product is packaged. Aside from the marketing spin of using the term "siliconized", the *only* purpose of adding a silicone component is for a fast adhesion to glass...that's it. Glass. But, adhesion to glass is critical and without the silicone component, the adhesion of a more conventional acrylic latex caulk can be obstructed by cold temps, hot temps, or condensation. The features of flexibility, elongation, memory, standard adhesion, etc. are all found in non-siliconized versions of good quality acrylic latex caulks...but if you're caulking glass (glass to wood, glass to metal, glass to plexiglass, glass to glass, glass to aluminum, glass to vinyl, whatever), stay with the siliconized product.

And...siliconized latex caulks ARE paintable. If you've had experience with one that hasn't held paint, the issue isn't the tiny amount of silicone in the caulk...also, the siliconized product can be used anywhere the non-siliconized versions can.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

As usual ric- the whole story- 

What I want people to understand is simply the difference between silicone (100%), and " siliconized" latex.
It is confusing, but one will ruin a job, and one will help it look great ( if used right)


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## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

I ended up getting Sherwin Williams Sher-MAX Urethanized Elastomeric Sealant. I hope its as good as the name is long. 

Thanks for your advice everyone!


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## ric knows paint (Oct 26, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> As usual ric- the whole story-
> 
> What I want people to understand is simply the difference between silicone (100%), and " siliconized" latex.
> It is confusing, but one will ruin a job, and one will help it look great ( if used right)


I agree with you. It is confusing and silicone can muck up the best of jobs - and it'd really be the wrong product to use here in Ikstaack's situation.


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## Faron79 (Jul 16, 2008)

When painting here at home, I use either Big-Stretch by Sashco, or Loctites Polyseamseal.

The Sashco B/S tube states..."Accepts most Latex paints within 4 hours, but waiting 24 hrs. is best. Oil-based paints wait at least one week."

Loctites P/S says...""Allow to dry at least 2 hrs. before painting with Latex OR Oil-based paints. Allow at least 24 hrs. before exposing to water."

>>> For wall/ceiling joints like yours, use the Big-Stretch.
* I've painted our 3 bathrooms in our 1996 Bi-level house over this past Winter.
* I ALWAYS caulk my vertical INSIDE corners, and the wall/ceiling joint...AND WE HAVE POPCORN ceilings!
* I use ~ 1/4" bead, and lightly smooth it off. I'm gettin' damn good at this too! 
* The next day, I hit the painting, starting with the ceiling. Obviously, I just brush the ceiling-paint down over my caulk-bead, and onto the sidewall an inch or so.
* Then, I primed the walls, and cut-into about where the bottom of the caulk-bead is.
* I like the appearance of the "smoother/slightly-rounded" ceiling and wall corner-joints. If ya have ugly vertical corners, it'll help!!
* As an experiment, I quickly sprayed fine texture-spray on the vertical corners when caulk was dried-out before painting. I can't decide if I like the lightly-textured "curved" corners better or not....

Your FIRST task though...
1) Get out the Shop-vac and vacuum off dust cobwebs, etc. 
2) Make sure the wall-paint is clean.
3) QUICKLY swipe a LIGHTLY DAMP rubbing-alcohol swab along the wall-paint at the ceiling. Alcohol will soften Latex paints, but a light/quick swipe won't hurt. I've done it successfully.
4) NOW you can apply the Big-Stretch! Don't use too small of a bead, or it'll crack.
5) I'd consider painting the Ceiling now, cuz you can brush your c/p down onto the sidewall, covering-up that bead.
6) Now when you cut-in your WALL paint, this bead will be completely hidden. 

Faron


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

jsheridan said:


> :laughing:You probably got confused by the correct advice coming from Joecaption, and just seeing JOE, you assumed it was me:laughing:. Alas, it couldn't be me, I would never rec Alex caulk. :thumbup:


 
Neither would anybody trying to uphold their reputation:whistling2:


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