# Old Washer Start-up Considerations



## HarryB (Dec 16, 2008)

I inherited a top of the line Sears washer, about 5 years old, back in '94.
Due to numerous reasons [e.g. living in London for the next 10 years], I never got around to hooking it up. 
I've got the basement spot prepped for it [was waiting for floor re-finish], am finally ready to shove it into place and hook it up.

Since this has been sitting for so long, I'm wondering if I have to do any "prep" on the machine, esp. for the gaskets in the water pump and the others, as they might have shrunk.

Anyone with any experience on this ?


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

I understand your concern. I would be more worried about the drive belt since being this old, it probably had a belt rather than a transmission. Doubtful gaskets have shrunk but there are probably some seals that may have dried out and cracked. Hard to tell. Sounds like you will need to run it through it's paces and see if there are any problems.


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## hoistdoctor (Jan 25, 2008)

The mid 80's was a transition period for the Whirlpool made Kenmores. If it has a removable panel near the bottom at the back, its a belt drive machine. If not, it's a direct drive machine. If it was stored in a warm place, its probably ok. If it was in freezing temps, it could have a cracked pump if water was left in it. Seals are mechanical and should be fine. Just have to try it.


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## MgMopar (Jul 31, 2004)

Give it a try! Not really to much preparation at this point it will ether need repairs from sitting for so long or it will be fine. If it did go below freezing without being fully drained or RV antifreeze ran into it, the water pump most likely would of been split. I would recommend first trying it were the floor can get wet Just in case!!


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## HarryB (Dec 16, 2008)

*Follow-up & Thanks*



HarryB said:


> I inherited a top of the line Sears washer, about 5 years old, back in '94.
> Due to numerous reasons [e.g. living in London for the next 10 years], I never got around to hooking it up.
> . . . . . . am finally ready to shove it into place and hook it up.
> ?


THANKS TO YOU GOOD FOLKS FOR YOUR GREAT INPUT.
Further on the situation:
Storage: washer has been kept in a heated basement, so no freeze problems.

Drive: If the lack of a back panel means direct drive, then it is a direct drive. I had been looking for a way to 'crack' the cover, but there are no panels, the cover being solid. It must slide up. 

Any further thoughts most welcome.
Hb


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## Rainsfordwaters (Dec 26, 2008)

*Cabinet removal*

Lift up the console after removing 2 phillips screws, 1 at each lower front corner of console. Disconnect lid switch wiring connector. Unsnap 2 brass colored clips by inserting flat blade screwdriver in near part of clip an push to rear. Cabinet will lift off. Don't do any of that unless needed though.Just plug in the washer and put it in spin. If thats ok hook up water and drain and start cycle full load warm. Immediately use a flashlight to watch the floor underneath. If it fills, and agitates ,spin again to check pumpout and drain. If it works and the floor is dry feel pleased, and wash clothes. Should be fine but this is easiest machine to service also.


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## hoistdoctor (Jan 25, 2008)

I concur with Rainsfordwater that it is one of the easiest to service. The only weak spot on the machine is the coupling between the motor and gear case. If you find that it won't spin, but the motor's running, the coupling broke. Whirlpool is on their third revision of the coupling and I think they got it right this time. Remove the cabinet as directed, pop off theclips that retain the pump, unplug the motor and capacitor, remove screws from motor clips, pop off motor clips, and you'll see the coupling.


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## HarryB (Dec 16, 2008)

*It's Running, but not quite perfectly*

Cheers
And, thanks again for all the great prior input.

Got this running -- it's a *Kenmore HD 80, mod # 72981100*
It did have a back panel, low, that I didn't see until I moved it; it's a belt drive. It started fine and, after a few test washes, the water came clean and it's been in use for about a month.

It seems to work fine, *EXCEPT,* 
on the PermPress cycle: the "regulator" [the timing/drive mechanism on the knob] sticks, right after the wash water empties. 
It makes a sort of low squealing noise at that point. 
[like a drive source is straining to move the 'gears']
If I merely advance the knob to the very next click stop, it continues with the remainder of the cycle just fine. [The 'delicates' cycle works perfectly; haven't tried the 'regular wash' cycle.]

It seems just to hang up at this one spot. I'm guessing there's some corrosion on the 'gear' mechanism behind the knob that stops the rotation. 

Before I open it up, I thought I'd check here for the knowledge and advice on what may be the cause, as well as the recommended way to open this top panel, and what the best cure may be.


*Q2:* I put some dressing on the belt, and I noticed that compared to auto drive belts that this seemed quite loose. 
How tight should this be ?
How to tighten it.

Thanks again for the unput.

hb




HarryB said:


> I inherited a top of the line Sears washer, about 5 years old, back in '94.
> Due to numerous reasons [e.g. living in London for the next 10 years], I never got around to hooking it up.
> I've got the basement spot prepped for it [was waiting for floor re-finish], am finally ready to shove it into place and hook it up.
> 
> ...


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## Rainsfordwaters (Dec 26, 2008)

You need a new timer if you want to use that cycle. There is a 9/16 hex head easily visible thru rear access opening. Loosen that just a quarter turn or so. Don't overloosen.Bump the motor mount out to increase belt tension.Use a hammer but just bump it don't smack it. then tighten the nut. Leaving the nut partially tightened keeps the motor from bouncing back b4 you finally tighten the nut.


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## Rainsfordwaters (Dec 26, 2008)

Forgot to add, belt should deflect only 1/8 to 1/4 in center at proper tension. I heard it could be overtightened but in thousands of services on this never had that happen.Being super tight is unnecessary though.


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## HarryB (Dec 16, 2008)

*New Timer ?*

Cheers.
Thanks for the great input.
What are these timers like ? Of course I'm still using that cycle-- it only has the one glitch and I have no problem turning the knob one click. There isn't any way to clean off the corrosion or lube it ?

Where does one get new timers ?
Are they difficult to put in ?

Thanks again.
hb


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## Rainsfordwaters (Dec 26, 2008)

*timer*

Part # is 381860. Sears wants $101.00. There was a time when timers were considered repairable. May or may not be for your model. Any way if you attempt repair go carefully, you might not get it together again. And corrosion is unlikley to affect timer advancement. I'd look for broken or worn gears. The only reliable fix is a new part.
Part removal A) Push timer knob IN.
B) Unscrew knob CCW 
C) Remove knob,then gently pull off the dial.
D) Remove two hex head screws thus exposed.
E) Open console.
Let me know if you get stumped.


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## HarryB (Dec 16, 2008)

*Feedback on Timer & Thanks*

Surprisingly, the last two uses there was NO sticking of the timer. So . . . have put off opening up the front. 
Plan to do so in near future, just to give it the "WD40 solution." 
Note that there are two phillips head trim retailning screws on ends of front panel. One looks abused, so possibly the sticking was an old problem previously treated.

Again, thanks for the good input.

B.rgds,
hb


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