# Cutoff tool questions for suspension bolt



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Now that the weather is cooling off, I am circling back to replacing the rusted rear lower trailing arm on my Navigator. I replaced the passenger side a few months ago, and have the replacement arm for the driver's side here now. Only difference between the two installations is that one of the driver's side bolts is blocked by the fuel tank. I DO NOT want to drop the tank.

I have a 3 inch cutoff tool to use, which, of course, means a 4 foot long shower of sparks right next to the fuel tank. Obvious hazard. Let me know if this is a terrible idea. 

I will block the sparks with something and direct them toward the ground as a precaution. Video shows me testing the cutoff tool on a scrap 10.9 bolt I had laying around. Which wheel is a better choice, 3/64th, 80 grit or 1/16 40 grit? Or does it matter at all? I want to cut this thing as fast as possible. Also, the tool is rated at 25K RPM, and the replacement discs rated at max 20K RPM? WTF? Maybe I should look for 25K ones, or is this a big deal?

Thanks.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Unless you have leak, the gas is not a problem . The fatter disc will make more sparks.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Sawzall with a Milwaukee Torch blade?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

huesmann said:


> Sawzall with a Milwaukee Torch blade?


I thought about that and have a Diablo blade. The back and forth sawing motion of the saw foils the cutting action. Just shoves the bolt back and forth, not cut it.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I don't know if your's is like mine was, but I cut the nut and bolt off, then drove the bolt through most of the way toward the gas tank. Took the arm and angled it to the side so the arm would slide off the bolt. The bolt was shortened enough it came out after the arm was out.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

BigJim said:


> I don't know if your's is like mine was, but I cut the nut and bolt off, then drove the bolt through most of the way toward the gas tank. Took the arm and angled it to the side so the arm would slide off the bolt. The bolt was shortened enough it came out after the arm was out.


I am hoping mine is the same. It isn't fully obstructed. I might be able to cut the shoulder off the bolt off and getit off.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

I would use the thinner blade it should cut faster because it is cutting less material width . And to be extra cautious have a box fan aimed at/near where you are cutting . The air disturbance will wisk away any fuel fumes if present .


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

It'll also blow the sparks around.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

There is no gas smell, anywhere. I ran evap tests on it and it held fuel hold pressure and the evap test showed no leak. I will direct the sparks down at the gound and cover wheel well. Thin blade is the one I will use. On my test bolt the thin blade cut half way through the bolt in abot 30 seconds. If i hold the bolt still, I would use the sawzall and diablo blade. When I am working on it maybe I can figure out how cut it with the saw.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Put a vise grip on the bolt then use a strap to steady the vice grip ? Or a C clamp or woodworkers clamp ?


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Have you tried losening the tank straps and moving the tank to the side, back, or forth just enough to get the bolt out.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ron45 said:


> Have you tried losening the tank straps and moving the tank to the side, back, or forth just enough to get the bolt out.


Every bolt and nut under this car is rusted solid. I wouldn't touch a fuel tank strap bolt, EVER. Really, it is like the Titanic. A fog light assembly bolt was rusted to a lump. I had to cut it off, and then chisel it out. Just unreal now bad this era Exp and Navs rust.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Bigplanz said:


> Every bolt and nut under this car is rusted solid. I wouldn't touch a fuel tank strap bolt, EVER. Really, it is like the Titanic. A fog light assembly bolt was rusted to a lump. I had to cut it off, and then chisel it out. Just unreal now bad this era Exp and Navs rust.


Two bolts. Easy to replace.

Just in case use your jack/stand to hold it up while loosening the straps.

Make it easy on yourself so you can enjoy life.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ron45 said:


> Two bolts. Easy to replace.
> 
> Just in case use your jack/stand to hold it up while loosening the straps.
> 
> Make it easy on yourself so you can enjoy life.


I will take some pictures when I am under there. If I ever get rid of the Nav, it will be because of frame rust.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> I will take some pictures when I am under there. If I ever get rid of the Nav, it will be because of frame rust.


It sounds like that truck sat in the ocean for a week, have you checked it's history.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Nealtw said:


> It sounds like that truck sat in the ocean for a week, have you checked it's history.


Truck was my brother's. He bought it new. He lives in NYC. Must be whatever they use to get snow off their roads.

I did some looking around under there. What a rusted mess. Looks like the sawzall and diablo blade is my only real option. Video shows the tight quarters. I am not touching that fuel tank.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> Truck was my brother's. He bought it new. He lives in NYC. Must be whatever they use to get snow off their roads.
> 
> I did some looking around under there. What a rusted mess. Looks like the sawzall and diablo blade is my only real option. Video shows the tight quarters. I am not touching that fuel tank.


 This guy ended up removing the tank but his has a clip that holds the nut in place so cutting the bolt may not help??


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> He lives in NYC. Must be whatever they use to get snow off their roads.


It’s called salt.
NYC has about 400 salt spreaders that they use to help melt snow and ice off their streets.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I put a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the nut and got the whole thing to turn. This tells me the bolt isn't seized in the sleeve of the trailing arm. The bolt head has to be cut off, though. Doable, I guess.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> I put a 3/4 inch breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the nut and got the whole thing to turn. This tells me the bolt isn't seized in the sleeve of the trailing arm. The bolt head has to be cut off, though. Doable, I guess.


The sleeve can turn in the rubber so you have not proved it yet.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)




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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bigplanz said:


> Truck was my brother's. He bought it new. He lives in NYC. Must be whatever they use to get snow off their roads.
> 
> I did some looking around under there. What a rusted mess. Looks like the sawzall and diablo blade is my only real option. Video shows the tight quarters. I am not touching that fuel tank.


 I have an old 7" angle grinder that we have loaded up with a cut off wheel that we use for cutting off badly placed foundation bolts.
We use the better quality blades that are like 1/16 thick
I would use that to go right thru the rubber the sleeve and the bolt and likely both sides if the arm.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Next step is to take the nut off each bolt and make sure the bolt moves freely. The bolts on the other side did, and were no problem to remove. They just slid right out. If the tank wasn't obstructing the one bolt this would have taken me about an hour to do.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Is it the shield that's blocking the bolt or the tank itself.?

If it's just the shield.

My opinion.

I would either take the shield off or cut it to access the bolt.
It would also make it easier to put the new one on.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

I would do what Neal's drawing shows. You'll probably want to just cut off the control arm at the bushing so it's out of the way, then cut at the edge of the bushing shell at the bolt end and the nut end. Gonna need to be careful not to nick the mounting tabs with your cutting tool.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ron45 said:


> Is it the shield that's blocking the bolt or the tank itself.?
> 
> If it's just the shield.
> 
> ...


The sheild and the tank both obstruct the bolt. I have a 4 inch angle grinder somewhere. I might us iit to cut a groove in the bolt so I can have a flat spot for the saw blade.

I will get it off one way or the other.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

If you're gonna cut on the bolt head or the nut you gotta be careful not to cut up the edges of the stamping for the mounting tab. I would do like I mentioned above and cut the control arm, so what's left is the outside of the control arm and the bushing. Then two cuts at the edge of the bushing, as shown in the red lines in the pic. Should be able to knock out the bolt head and nut from between the tabs.


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