# Replacing aluminum trim around garage door



## dneubauer09

Here are some photos. I did not mention it but the previous trim was tapered at the corners. I will be squaring it out for simplicity sake.


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## mako1

The aluminum wrapping the trim on the door was done improperly.It should have been installed before the siding and bent with a flange that went under the siding.That way if the caulk failed water would not have been able to get behind it.
I see no way to fix it properly without removing the siding.Caulk will never fix a bad install.


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## dneubauer09

I had a contractor out and say the same thing. I am really wishing it were vinyl siding as my research tells me that removing aluminum siding with out damaging it is not always possible.


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## kwikfishron

dneubauer09 said:


> I had a contractor out and say the same thing. I am really wishing it were vinyl siding as my research tells me that removing aluminum siding with out damaging it is not always possible.


You can R&R the aluminum just fine. You just have to start at the top of the wall and remove it in the reverse order as it was put up. 

It does take a little TLC though so the wrong crew could easily screw it up.


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## dneubauer09

Good to know.

Should I be concerned about whether or not the siding has enough flex to get it into the j-channels once in place? On the one side, the siding is maybe 12-18" long...

I just don't want to rip it all down, install the j's and not be able to get the siding back on.



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## firehawkmph

dneubauer09 said:


> Good to know.
> 
> Should I be concerned about whether or not the siding has enough flex to get it into the j-channels once in place? On the one side, the siding is maybe 12-18" long...
> 
> I just don't want to rip it all down, install the j's and not be able to get the siding back on.
> 
> 
> 
> Dn,
> Aluminum siding is not cut to fit tight into both sides of the J channel. On a piece as short as you mentioned, slide one end into the channel and the cut length should allow you to just clear the J channel on the other side. Then center the panel side to side and nail. If you have room to drop them in from the top, you can cut them a little longer for a closer fit. Drop each piece in from the top. It will slide down and stop when it touches the top of the last installed piece. Grab the bottom and pull it down so it rides over the nailing hem and then back up to lock it up.
> You might want to consider using something like Azek trim for the jambs and brick mold. Easy to install, doesn't have to be covered in aluminum, and won't rot.
> Mike Hawkins


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## joecaption

If it was mine I would not waste my time trying to reuse the old aluminum siding.
There was nothing done right on that siding job.
Bet you can find vinyl siding that will be a close enough match in color and exposure to replace it with.
Need to take a sample and go to real siding supplyers, not the box stores.
I'm dealing with this now on a a $500,000 house where some DIY installed there own siding and did not do the one bend in the coil stock that would have kept the water out.
Instead it rotted all the main beams causing at least $10,000 in damage.
All because of not spending the time make one more bend.
There also did not use any under sill ( utility trim) under any of the windows or the sliding doors so that also rotted the walls out.


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## oldfrt

Clean up the perimeter behind the siding at least 4"by removing nails,slip flat coil or window wrap,or both behind siding and over trim area.Slip J behind siding.add drip cap to top.Continuous flat stock at top of door should protect wood at joint in J,but you could also lap joint in J and seal with good quality caulk for added protection.

You can temporarily tape J to siding to hold it in place.

Now fit PVC trim around door,then pin nail J to sides of trim.Won't take too many nails,just enough to hold it in place.

Easy-peasy,no need to remove siding.


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