# Taper Concrete edge to concrete edge??



## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Ok so my garage looks to have been done in two pours which results in one pour about 1.5" higher than the other pour. When I bought the place, HUD foreclosure, I had to have an engineer come check the density of both pours to ensure they are adequate for car parking and they both came back as good. (I still don't know why this test that cost me $300 was required). Anyways I want to do connect these pieces so there isn't a lip between the two. They don't have to be perfect just don't want a lip. So...

A) Can I just just mud and do a 6" slope connecting them?

B) Will concrete mud adhere to the two pieces? (I'll prep with cleaning and acid wash)

C) What do you recommend?


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Oh and the height difference isn't due to settling. The pours are flat, minus the slight downhill decline for water run off.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No idea unless you post a picture what was done there.
Pretty common to see someone try poring over a sinking, cracking slab or trying to keep water from running into the garage due to improper grading.


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

i would just grind a bevel on the higher one


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Here is a picture of the edge


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

I'm not really fond of the idea of beveling the edge...what machine could I rent or use to bevel such a long edge? 

Really just want to do some type of concrete, mortar, cement, etc. slope, then I'll do an epoxy floor coating.

Any more ideas?


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

you basically want to do the same thing by adding on to the lower concrete a sloped bevel. it will be hard to add something on that will be durable.


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Ahh DannyT - you are supposed to say sure slapping concrete mud on there from 1.5" to a feather edge will do great and be fine! lol.

Any more takers or ideas? Because it is in the middle of the garage it will only get foot traffic and maybe the Harley tire on it. I really just need something to feather it out so I can get epoxy over it and not have the trip hazard.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*IF it were our floor, we'd grind the high edge 1/2way then o'lay the lower to bring that up to meet the lowered side.

IF you owned a beemer, you'd have fewer issues ( no noise, better handling, faster, abs braking ) :laughing:

adhesion to existing conc can be accomplished easier using polymer-modified conc ( contains polymers, white or gray cement, fine aggregate ),,, we used to do that work routinely*


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

What type of tool, outside a grinder with diamond blade, can be used to grind a 45degree angle on over 22 feet of concrete?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*(NOT just because i own) apron/vest stores rent sawtec7" grinders w/dust muzzle to attach to a vac,,, we use turbo cup wheels from ebay ($50) - 1/2 days work - make a jig to keep angle constant*


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Thank you for the responses. How do you suppose I make a jig for a handheld grinder? I think it's going to rattle all over the place unless I'm holding it.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*howzabout cutting a scrap piece of ply w/angle as you require on the btm then tape it to your 2' level ? as i recall, someone once said ' necessity is the mother of invention ! ' :yes:*


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

I've thought of that, or even hard rubber. The issue is two fold: (1) will it crack/give to much if any weight, person or motorcycle is directly on it or (2) if moisture every gets in there and does a freeze/thaw cycle what will happen.

I think i'm going to try a small area with grinding first. But now that the weather is under 50s nightly it looks like this will be a first of spring project, errr winter sucks.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

we'd use a polymer-modified conc mix w/VERY fine silicon carbide aggregate,,, typically it has a compressive strength of 5,600psi, flexural strength of 750#, tensile strength of 240#, & can be feather-edged,,, it can also be colored & has excellent bonding strength w/o the use of any bonding agent,,, doubt any harley will hurt it.

oh - did i mention we use these materials down to 38f & rising ? it cures in 3 or 4 hrs & can withstand foot traffic - 24hrs & you can drive on it :thumbsup: if you're worried about low temps, leave a spot/floodlight on as these materials are not highly exothermic as is regular portland.

probably forgot to mention you can't find this stuff at ANY apron/vest store !


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

where would I find something like that?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

any pro const supply house OR, better yet, a decorative conc supply store,,, send me your city/state - maybe i know a good source for you,,, the latter's usually a better resource as they have worn knees/dirty hands experience :yes:


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## rebelranger (Aug 1, 2012)

Kansas City, Mo..
I'll call and ask around too


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