# exterior paint



## Guest

I need help in painting my home exterior...I do not know what kind of paint to use...I have read the reviews on Behr paint and am now scared....Please help, I am considering sherwin williams super paint...my house is a extremely faded yellow aluminum siding trimmmed in brown and I am wanting to paint it pure white with red trim... I have purchased a wagner sprayer...I was told to use emulsa-bond(made by flood) in my paint instead of a primer at one paint store and that I did not need primer at all by another... I live in nw indiana if thats important... any info will help thanks.


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## Guest

*EB flood.*

I am in the same situation. I have heard that if it is chalking to use primer but I am also told by a friends dad that he used the eb flood stuff with paint and no primer and it worked really well.

I also came across this website.

http://lexingtonpaint.com/howto/painting-staining4.htm

Best of luck.

Stephen


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## Hammertime

Fred Meyers said:


> I need help in painting my home exterior...I do not know what kind of paint to use...I have read the reviews on Behr paint and am now scared....Please help, I am considering sherwin williams super paint...my house is a extremely faded yellow aluminum siding trimmmed in brown and I am wanting to paint it pure white with red trim... I have purchased a wagner sprayer...I was told to use emulsa-bond(made by flood) in my paint instead of a primer at one paint store and that I did not need primer at all by another... I live in nw indiana if thats important... any info will help thanks.


Many years ago before home depot had Behr paint they carried dutch boy I believe. I used behr paint on a few jobs. I didn't really like it, but when customers go to a building supply store they tend to believe the people working there when 9 out of 10 times they don't really know what they're doing. On the defense of the one's that do....some really do know what they're doing. But when you work for a store you'd get fired for telling people their paint stinks. It's my opinion of course cause I don't like behr paint. A friend of mine thinks it's great stuff. But, I know he doesn't really know too much about other material quality cause he's stubborn and won't change. I don't use anything other then Benjamin moore. I've been using for years. In the interiors when I sheet rock. I don't have to primer at all. The paint is so good that one coat painted well will look like 2 coats and primer painted by another brand. I don't paint anything less then 2 coats on any new contruction. Or a color change. If it's the same color and I know what paint was used before then I may paint one coat to save the customer money cause that's all the would really be needed. The exterior paint is just as good. The only problem with painting things is if you don't know what was used before there may be more future problems then you'll want. If the paint doesn't have to be scraped or sanded and it's not peeling then you have an easy job ahead of you. Easier then it could be. I do things so I never have to return to fix a problem. If you think the yellow may fade through(odds are it will or make the white dirty looking) then you should primer. If not then it's going to be a gamble. Me myself being it's yellow. I would primer. 

this is only advice so take all the advisement you can get then make your own decision cause everyone has their own way of doing things.


Good luck,
Joe


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## robertpri

New to this site, so this is first reply. I'm a big believer in CR, and their rec' was for Glidden Exterior paint. Actually, two other brands were rated slightly higher, but neither one is available in Cal. I used Glidden on my garage and fence last year with very good results. I plan on doing the house when it warms up a bit. My biggest concern is the primer. Seems to me that if you use a GREAT primer, then most of the topcoats will look and last pretty good. Bad primer, and no paint will last. 

But I've never found any good reviews on primer. Searched CR and other sites. Nothing. I've heard good stories about Zinnser [sp?] Bullseye 123, but that stuff is $35 a gallon! Just the primer for this house would be $500! No way! 

So, any comments on good exterior primer?


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## Guest

*ENERGY STAR paint*

How about insulating your home at the same time you paint?

I have worked with an insulating fire retardant paint and protective roof coating for years. It is the only interior / exterior paint that carries the ENERGY STAR.

The Mechanical Engineering Department of the University of Nevada, Las Vegas did a 2 year study on this insulating paint vs standard paint. They built clone buildings and painted one with this product, the other with standard paint. Their findings were that the unit with standard paint required 52.2% more cooling and heating killowatts than the unit painted with the insulating paint.


If the present paint has oxidized, pressure wash it, allow it to dry. Prime any areas of rust with a rust inhibitive primer and allow that to dry. Then paint it with this product.

Contact me anytime with questions.

Hal Skinner


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## ProWallGuy

> I'm a big believer in CR,


I'm not. How can they recommend or suggest a product when they don't even mention the most crucial step in the process IE _primer._


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## robertpri

ProWallGuy said:


> I'm not. How can they recommend or suggest a product when they don't even mention the most crucial step in the process IE _primer._


I agree about the primer, which is why I posted the question. [no replies yet] 

But I disagree about not believing in CR. In a decade of my purchasing, they've never steered me wrong.


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## ProWallGuy

For a DIY'er, I reckon CR can be a valuable resource. I often check it out before buying electronics, etc, things that I'm not familiar with

As a contractor, I use my experience and knowledge of a product to make an educated guess as to what to use. When I saw CR had put Behr in the number one spot a year or so ago, I laughed and laughed. The last time I saw a _good_ paint product rated top in the mag was Pratt & Lambert Accolade. A very fine product that deserved the rating it was given. 

As for the primer, I would choose a 100% acrylic, something like Ben Moore's Fresh Start, and add some Emulsa Bond to it if I was concerned about chalking/adhesion. But the point is moot as Fred posted the original question 8 months ago.

More on CR:
Ripped from the contractortaqlk forum:

I highly agree. My opinion is that Behr is junque. Only reason it gets press is because of the Home Depot/Lowes marketing machine.

I read a while back how consumer reports does their testing. They reported on aspects of paint that appealed to the DIY consumer. Many features that meant nothing to a pro painter were included. Many feature/specs that pro painters look for in a paint were overlooked. If I can find the article again I'll post it.
__________________
ProWallGuy
Professional Wallpaper & Paint
St. Louis, MO 




Here is the post I referred to. It was written by Jim Parodi of NY and posted on the American Paperhanging Network.

Quote:
I just finished reading the Consumer Reports roundup of interior paints.
As usual it is written from the DIY perspective and offers little for
the professional. And as usual, I reject most of the criteria used to
judge these paints:

Major problem #1--- Once again CU only chooses the national brands. I
understand why, since it does the DIYer little good to get stoked about
a paint if they can't get it in their state. But the omission of great
regional brands is a fatal error and renders this seemingly
"comprehensive" roundup a complete failure. Maybe when they include
Coronado, Porter, Muralo, Touraine, and so many others it will be worth
a revisit.

Problem #2--- Would it be too obvious to point out that the most
important aspect in our superficial trade is "HOW DOES IT LOOK?" CU
spends a millisecond on this subject and cubbyholes this into "Does it
appear flatter than advertised or glossier than advertised." "Does it
go on smoothly" This is important to the DIYer because they are always
newbies. Pros are familiar with sheen levels after one or two jobs and
aren't surprised by sheen. "Brush glide" (smooth application) is nice,
but even if a paint is less user friendly, pros will usually find a way
around it---or ignore it completely if they think the finished product
is worth the extra effort.

Problem # 3- Hiding and Mildew Resistance are nice. But once again if
a paint gives a better appearance with two coats pros will use it.
(DIYers want a one coat so they can get back to football on TV.) And
scrubbability? CU does not even get into the newer "flat enamels" or
ceramics. Muralo Ultra Ceramic, Pratt &Lambert Accolade, Coronado Cerama
Gard are regional and therefore not mentioned.

Problem # 4-- Do the words "leveling", "flashing", "blocking", "edge
cling", "sagging", "enamel holdout", "recoat time", "cure time", mean
anything to you? Of course they do-you're a pro. They mean nothing to
a DIYer so CU completely ignores these ESSENTIAL paint qualities in
their review.

Problem # 5--- Such a bunch of paint yokels I haven't seen in recent
memory...Did anybody see the word PRIMER mentioned at all? Yes CU,
paint companies have these things that go on first and these things are
part of the "system" than can make or break a job. So with primers you
can tackle painting garbage painted atrium halls with uniform finish and
get good PROFESSIONAL results over patching compounds.

This review is a joke for the pro. Take it and send it to your DIY
relative.
Quote

That all makes sense to me.
__________________
ProWallGuy
Professional Wallpaper & Paint
St. Louis, MO
ProWallGuy is online now IP Edit/Delete Message


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## robertpri

ProWallGuy said:


> For a DIY'er, I reckon CR can be a valuable resource. I often check it out before buying electronics, etc, things that I'm not familiar with


Everything you say, and the article, is accurate. No doubt about it.

But, I am not a pro. I don't know beans about paint [which is painfully obvious] and that is why I refer to DYI sites and CR. I did find other paints which are superior to the one I finally chose, but I cannot find them locally. That counts to me.

On the flip side, I know a great deal about electronics, and would never use CR as a source of information on those issues. I don't need it. 

On primer, I will check out Ben Moore's Fresh Start.

Many thanks--that is precisely what I'm looking for.


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## George Z

*Prep work?*

Most exterior paints fail because of the lack of preparation 
work, or improper application of primers, caulking and paint.
A lot is said about the brand of paint to use. There are many
good brands and most of them will do fine. Like any other product
most people and painting contractors have their favourite. There
is no way everyone can agree to what the best paint is.
Follow the manufacturer's recomendations about preparation work,
drying times etc.(no shortcuts) and any good paint will perform fine.


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## Humble Abode

robertpri said:


> But I've never found any good reviews on primer. Searched CR and other sites. Nothing. I've heard good stories about Zinnser [sp?] Bullseye 123, but that stuff is $35 a gallon! Just the primer for this house would be $500! No way!
> 
> So, any comments on good exterior primer?




$35 a gallon?? where are you buying it? Here in Milwaukee I pay about $70 for a 5 gallon pale of it, and that's before my contractors discount. 

Bullseye 123 is a fantastic all round primer. Zinser also makes specialty primers that can be found at any Sherwin Williams, like masonry primer, metal primer, high heat and the like. They make a good product I recommend it.


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## A.R.GRUSZKA

*murallo exterior paint*



George Z said:


> Most exterior paints fail because of the lack of preparation
> work, or improper application of primers, caulking and paint.
> A lot is said about the brand of paint to use. There are many
> good brands and most of them will do fine. Like any other product
> most people and painting contractors have their favourite. There
> is no way everyone can agree to what the best paint is.
> Follow the manufacturer's recomendations about preparation work,
> drying times etc.(no shortcuts) and any good paint will perform fine.


Just registered, Iam in painting business for 19 years. 
Most my work was interior, but I did exterior repainting project last summer.
After prep. we apply oil base BM exterior primer and used same paint brand Murallo, happens to be wrong choice, the paint is pilling.
The painted surface is wood. We did use this paint first time,
usually we used BM , P&L or Sherwin Williams paints for exterior.
Any advice or comments please? Thank you


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## zot23

I hear that Sherwin Williams Duration paint is maybe the best exterior paint on the market today. The only problem with it is that SW doesn't give contractors much of a break on the price, so it runs about $35-40 a gallon. Steep, but when the paint job lasts twice as long and is still colorful years later, well I guess you get what you pay for. BTW - Usually, they can get other paints for $15-20 a gallon easily.

Other paints I hear are good:

* SW Superpaint (decent)
* Pratt & Lambert
* Pittsburgh

I'm not a pro painter, just a good researcher that happens to be painting his house this summer. I'm using Duration from above, it's an extra $400 but since I'm already paying $2K might as well get it done right...


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## meiersenterprises

I read in Consumer Reports that the MAB paint is the best overall for exteriors. What are your opinions of MAB???


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## Buffman

I think CR can be useful, especially if you're a newbie to a topic, but I would never treat it as gospel. I always try to find commentary on other chat rooms like this one. 

MESSAGE TO ProWallGuy: I was curious what paints you like (especially for exterior) and why?


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## joewho

For the OP.

Vinyl siding is not that difficult or scary to paint. There are several mfg.s that advertise paint directly to vinyl siding. I've used them, never had a problem.

Washing off the chaulk is the most important thing. Being that vinyl expands/contracts more than any other exterior material is a pointer to keep in mind.

Priming would be even better, but in my opinion, on vinyl, priming doesn't offer that much advantage as far as making the paint stick.

Yellow or colors containing yellow are the most fade prone colors.

Using the new oil modified exterior paints, no primer would be the diy'ers best solution to cost and ease of application. 

Sherwin Williams color accents is an excellent paint for this application. It specifically works very well with deep tones (red) and has superior color retention while being less costly than duration.

Again, just my opinion, backed by experience. Again, advice for a diy'er.

PS. I've never experienced bowing or warpage from a color change on siding, but others in here may want to expound on that with a color change from yellow to red.


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## Guest

I'm undecided on Emulsa-bond now days. I've used it recently in P&L Redseal and compared to paints we've carried in the past (Duron Weathershield, and Devoe Wonder Shield for example) the E-B just doesn't work so well anymore. It still gives the adhesion it always did, but I don't think Flood has reformulated the products in quite some time. The problem I run into is when putting it in these new heavier bodied, higher solids paints the paint gets gummy and much harder to work with, requiring thinning as well. It works better is the vinyl/acrylics I've used. That said, I'd rather go to the extra expense and put a product like Zinsser Peelstop on the surface and then a primer and paint, or in this case probably just a paint. Peelstop is a clean primer, basically just binder in a can, that really glues down the problem surface. It works well on chaulking and peeling. I think Xim makes a similar product.


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## Gerry Kiernan

*Exterior Paint*

Hello All

I have a large workshop [former warehouse] which is covered in cedar siding. The first four feet up is bevel cedar siding laid horizontally, and the rest, about eight feet, is channel cedar siding run vertically. There is a lot of flaking going on, mostly on the channel siding.
I am planning to replace much of the bevel siding, as it is in poor shape, and will redo some of the vertical siding. 

My big question is prep of the wood. What is the most effective way to get rid of the flaking? Bear in mind this is a big shop, and hand scraping would probably take me several months.

Is it practical to remove the vertical siding, reverse it, and reinstall for a fresh surface?

Thanks in advance

Gerry:glare:


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## slickshift

Hand scraping is usually the best way
A quality scraper (like the Hyde duo-metal ones) is light years ahead of a putty knife
Though some machines (paint eaters) can be used
I should warn you, the good ones aren't cheap, and the cheap ones aren't good
They are a little faster and less fatiguing than hand scraping

It reaches a point where so much needs to be scraped, that a full strip is in order
You'd want to invest in a paint eater if you want to DIY that

I couldn't tell you about switching siding sides, that'd have to be your call


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## tuloose

*Behr paint*

I have used Behr paint for many years and have always been very satisfied.
I have a number of rental properties in FL and Behr was always my 1st choice for exterior paint if I wanted the best product.
I used the cheaper Glidden Speed Wall for the interior since the interior had to be repainted every time someone moved out.
Now I live in OR and I recently painted our interior with Behr Plus and our exterior with Plus Ultra. I haven't found a better paint on the market.
The ext color we initially choose did not quite match the color card. I spoke to the Behr rep who happened to be in the store that day and he told me how I could get a full refund for the already mixed 15 gallons I had purchased. I applied for and received the refund. Try that with any other paint manufacturer.
I choose a different shade and the job came out perfect. I pressure washed first and used an airless sprayer. No problems.
IMHO anyone who says Behr paint is junk either doesn't know what they are talking about or they are selling a competing product and want to run down the competition.


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## mustangmike3789

tuloose said:


> I have used Behr paint for many years and have always been very satisfied.
> I have a number of rental properties in FL and Behr was always my 1st choice for exterior paint if I wanted the best product.
> I used the cheaper Glidden Speed Wall for the interior since the interior had to be repainted every time someone moved out.
> Now I live in OR and I recently painted our interior with Behr Plus and our exterior with Plus Ultra. I haven't found a better paint on the market.
> The ext color we initially choose did not quite match the color card. I spoke to the Behr rep who happened to be in the store that day and he told me how I could get a full refund for the already mixed 15 gallons I had purchased. I applied for and received the refund. Try that with any other paint manufacturer.
> I choose a different shade and the job came out perfect. I pressure washed first and used an airless sprayer. No problems.
> IMHO anyone who says Behr paint is junk either doesn't know what they are talking about or they are selling a competing product and want to run down the competition.


IMHO same could be said about someone promoting behr paint. btw. this thread is several years old and your argument may be better served in the "commenting on behr paint" thread.


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## warminwisco

I live in Green Bay and had a contractor stain my 12 inch cedar home with Mautz stain, which was junk. I later did it myself with oil primer from Home depot and one coat of Duration and after 6 years she still looks perfect. Any cracks use nothing but Gorilla glue, it last and makes the board strong as new. Sand it down with a pumice stone, paint over and crack is gone


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## Will22

Keep in mind that this is a string from 2005.


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