# How hard is it to remove patio door and make opening smaller?



## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I got an estimate to get a new patio door installed, I save about 2 grand if I remove the old one myself and make the opening a standard size (dimensions given to me are 60" wide and 82" high which accounts for shimming). Basically I'll add two double 2x4's on each side to centre the new opening to that size and add a new header on top for the top and then insulate the small cavities. If I can easily do it I'll probably remove the old opening as to get better R value to insulate more. Then tie in house wrap and plywood on outside and vapour barrier on inside as well as drywall. The window guy will install the new patio door and also fix the outside with some flashing/moulding to make it look nice. 

My family is freaking out at the fact that I want to do the resize myself. Is it really that big of a deal to do? My house is brick, if it matters, but since there will only be a couple inches all around to redo I think it will look ok with some flashing or something instead of trying to match brick. The current door is about 68x86. 

I need to open up the wall on one side anyway because I get frost in winter there, so probably lack of insulation or a hole in vapour barrier, so while I'm in there may as well just take out everything and start clean, as the drywalling in that area is bad anyway probably due to the frost. 

I've never done this before but I did frame my basement, so I imagine is very similar concept. Also the existing door goes practically right to the top of the ceiling, based on infrared imaging I don't think there's a header beam, is is necessary to add one? That's a large section that wont have insulation so that will eat into the R value. 

Attached a pic of existing door to give idea of what I'm dealing with.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Done all the time. 

Just requires a larger case molding on the inside and trimming to the outside.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Windows on Wash said:


> Done all the time.
> 
> Just requires a larger case molding on the inside and trimming to the outside.


Yep--making the opening smaller is not advanced carpentry.

If you plan on reworking the drywall so you can insulate,you will not need over sized trim inside.

Look into AZEK trim for the outside---I find that easier than aluminum because I do not have a metal brake.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Good to know, wanted to ensure I'm not missing anything critical here. Anything special I need to know about house wrap and vapour barrier? From my understanding I have to fold the house wrap partially into the new opening right? Or do I want to use blue skin tape or something for that? For inside, I just bring vapour barrier to the edge of the opening and stape + tape it there I think.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Am I the only one.????
When I see an avatar I imagine the voice to it and read the post that way, not out loud mind you.


Man, Canada must be something else. 

I never seen a 86" door.. 2 grand, that's plain crazy..


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

$2,000 was because it's a non standard size. This is an old house, maybe it was standard in the 60's. So they'd have to custom build one to fit that enclosure.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

To answer the question about Tyvek---

For that small of an area--the tar backed window wrap should be sufficient---
I do install windows--but I'm not the final word---so if one of the exterior guys offers a differing opinion--listen to them.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Oh does the door/window come with it's own wrap for around? Though I was thinking, what I'll probably do is tyvek the entire area as I want a weather seal temporarily given it rains all the time at this time of year. Then I'll let the installer cut into it the way he wants. I'll probably start on this the minute I get a day off where it's not raining. Wish me luck lol, having a dry day line up with a day off is very rare at this time of year. Can't believe summer is already mostly over. 

Will be so nice to have a new door and fixing the insulation though, I freeze in winter in my living/dining room. Getting my front bay window replaced with a regular window too, I'm sure that will help as old bay windows are probably not the most thermally efficient. I got lucky and that one is a standard size though. Redoing that whole area to be a regular window is part of the price I was quoted so wont touch that one.


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## ACWindows (Oct 1, 2014)

Yes, with a little work you can make the opening smaller and it should be fine. Good luck!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Most 'new construction' windows have a nailing flange----the window wrap goes over that---and behind the tyvec (If you have it---)

Then for good measure add another on top of the tyvek---


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## fortunerestore (Mar 6, 2014)

In case of new construction, the windows have a nailing flange. Thus, the window wrap goes over and behind the tyvec. In addition, for smaller area the tar backed window wrap is more than sufficient and you can install windows too. But, still go for a professional check.


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