# Ceiling paint bubbling: what am I doing wrong?



## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I gave my kitchen ceiling a skimming of joint compound over the rough patches of plaster. 

I then sanded the joint compound a day later. 

Then I gave the ceiling a coat of Glidden Gripper White Primer & Sealer a day later. 

A few days later I gave it a first coat of Behr Flat Ceiling Interior Paint. I got some bubbles. 

More than a month later (today) I sanded the bubbles then gave it another coat of finish. But I got even more bubbles this time (see photo below). What am I doing wrong? Since some of these bubbles are a little larger, how should I remove them? Sand then patch with joint compound again. Am I not simply going to get more bubbles?


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## griz (Sep 22, 2015)

did you wipe the dust off after you sanded?


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## limyboy (May 6, 2012)

I had the same thing happen to me on a customers house I was painting, except the walls were years old, he's correct I bet if you pop a bubble it will be full of dust, the only way I found to eliminate the problem is to either use nothing but oil based products on the surface which I wouldn't recomend or use fans to dry the paint as fast as you can giving the paint no time to penetrate the previous coat.


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## limyboy (May 6, 2012)

What I did was scraped off the bubbles with a mud knife and lightly sanded with a sanding pole, then prime with an oil based Kilz, you may still see a few bubbles but not many, this will prevent your top coat from being able to penetrate the surface as fast, then proceed in painting and as soon as your finished use a couple round metal fans on full.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Behr paint is noted for being lumpy (gritty) but that almost looks like something in the paint. Did it bubble with the primer also or just the paint? Did it bubble in the same place on the second coat as it did on the first? And as the others suggested it could be drywall dust. After sanding the area it needs a good cleaning and wipe down with a damp rag, the entire ceiling not just where you patched.


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## klaatu (Mar 9, 2015)

Two words-Glidden and Behr. Mediocre at best. Any issues with dust or dirt and poof!


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Yes, I wiped off the dust from the whole ceiling with a wet rag which I kept cleaning to make sure it remained cleaned as I wiped.



griz said:


> did you wipe the dust off after you sanded?


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

When I pop the bubbles there's no dust, just air (I guess).



limyboy said:


> I had the same thing happen to me on a customers house I was painting, except the walls were years old, he's correct I bet if you pop a bubble it will be full of dust, the only way I found to eliminate the problem is to either use nothing but oil based products on the surface which I wouldn't recomend or use fans to dry the paint as fast as you can giving the paint no time to penetrate the previous coat.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I've sanded out the bubbles. With the larger ones I had to patch them with joint compound because there was a shallow hole created from the paint peeling off.

It's what I'm going to put on after I sand the joint compound patches that I'm still thinking about. 

The problem could be with the primer or the finish. I just don't know.

The funny thing is that when I wipe the sanded areas with a damp cloth some of the bubbles try to come back, at least partially.



limyboy said:


> What I did was scraped off the bubbles with a mud knife and lightly sanded with a sanding pole, then prime with an oil based Kilz, you may still see a few bubbles but not many, this will prevent your top coat from being able to penetrate the surface as fast, then proceed in painting and as soon as your finished use a couple round metal fans on full.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

It bubbled only with the paint.

I cannot recall whether it bubbled in the same area with the first and second coats. I think it was roughly in the same area.

However, now that you ask, I've just remembered something else. I first used Zinsser as a primer (on the trouble spots) then later used Glidden Gripper as an alternative primer after I sanded a second time. Maybe the bubbles are coming from the areas where there maybe Zinsser, then a first coat of Behr, then then Glidden Gripper (after I caught an imperfection), then a coat of finish. 

In all honesty, this ceiling has been through quite a bit with my experimenting around, trying to get the "perfect look." :smile:



ToolSeeker said:


> Behr paint is noted for being lumpy (gritty) but that almost looks like something in the paint. Did it bubble with the primer also or just the paint? Did it bubble in the same place on the second coat as it did on the first? And as the others suggested it could be drywall dust. After sanding the area it needs a good cleaning and wipe down with a damp rag, the entire ceiling not just where you patched.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I've had similar problems with joint compound when I thinned it too much with water. I use Synko ProSet 90 Lite Sand which doesn't have much glue in it. To get a smoother coat, I would use a spray bottle to mist the joint compound with water and trowel it when it was wet. I found that doing that would give me bubbles, and I attribute that to the moisture absorbed into the joint compound wanting to evaporate. I'm thinking that because I troweled the joint compound wet, I diluted what little glue was in the joint compound, and the powder at the surface didn't have enough glue in it to hold it together. So, when the water in the primer wanted to evaporate from the joint compound, it pushed the primer off the powder to form a bubble because there wasn't enough glue in the powder to hold it together to prevent that from happening.

I'd say your best bet would be to use your joint compound to fix those bubbled areas, but don't thin your joint compound with too much water. I attribute that excessive thinning with water to be the reason I got bubbles in my latex primer.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Nestor_Kelebay,

Thanks for your interesting feedback. 

The only thing is that I did not thin my joint compound with water. I just applied as it came in the container from Home Depot.



Nestor_Kelebay said:


> I've had similar problems with joint compound when I thinned it too much with water. I use Synko ProSet 90 Lite Sand which doesn't have much glue in it. To get a smoother coat, I would use a spray bottle to mist the joint compound with water and trowel it when it was wet. I found that doing that would give me bubbles, and I attribute that to the moisture absorbed into the joint compound wanting to evaporate. I'm thinking that because I troweled the joint compound wet, I diluted what little glue was in the joint compound, and the powder at the surface didn't have enough glue in it to hold it together. So, when the water in the primer wanted to evaporate from the joint compound, it pushed the primer off the powder to form a bubble because there wasn't enough glue in the powder to hold it together to prevent that from happening.
> 
> I'd say your best bet would be to use your joint compound to fix those bubbled areas, but don't thin your joint compound with too much water. I attribute that excessive thinning with water to be the reason I got bubbles in my latex primer.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

A stupid question.

When using a roller on a ceiling, do you dip the roller into the bucket of paint? 

Or do you first pour the paint onto a paint tray liner then dip the roller into the tray? 

Just curious.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

You pour the paint into the paint tray liner and then "roll" the paint up the ramp of the paint tray liner with the roller until the entire outside of the roller sleeve has paint on it.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I ask because I've seen a number of YouTube videos where the roller is dipped into the bucket like the one below: 







Also, if I can touch the ceiling with my finger tips, while standing up, should I still have an extension on my 9-inch roller handle? 

Just curious. 

I have not been using an extension. 



Nestor_Kelebay said:


> You pour the paint into the paint tray liner and then "roll" the paint up the ramp of the paint tray liner with the roller until the entire outside of the roller sleeve has paint on it.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

You can paint out of a bucket. You need a second bucket about half full and a metal grid to roll your roller on to remove excess. And you only dip the roller enough to put paint on it you can't dunk it. A pan and liner is easier.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Yes, an extension handle almost always makes rolling easier as well as allowing you to roll out longer strokes. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

The pan vs bucket debate is an old one. My father who trained me didn't like pans, partially because of the reason stated in the video that it's easy to step in a pan if your not paying close attention. 

I've switched mostly to pans lately. They seem to load the roller a little better but either way can work fine. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Jmayspaint said:


> The pan vs bucket debate is an old one. My father who trained me didn't like pans, partially because of the reason stated in the video that it's easy to step in a pan if your not paying close attention.
> 
> I've switched mostly to pans lately. They seem to load the roller a little better but either way can work fine.
> 
> ...


You and I must be the only ones left.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I have pretty much switched back to pans. Unless it's a really large ceiling.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Then there are all of 3 of us left


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

+1 on Pans. 

I like the angle of loading a roller in the pan much better. With a bucket, you have to stand right over the bucket and keep your paint pole almost perpendicular to load it properly. With a pan, you roll at a 45 degree angle which is a much more comfortable position and you don't have to stand right over top of the pan..........


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Thanks to all who replied to my pan vs bucket question.

I've been using a pan.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Another stupid question: If I can touch the ceiling with my finger tips, while standing up, should I still have an extension on my 9-inch roller handle? 

Just curious. 

I have not been using an extension.

But today things changed. As luck would have it, I found a window wiper in my car trunk that had a 1 foot wooden handle. I removed the wiper and used the handle for my paint roller. The painting was much more comfortable!


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I have a short adjustable pole that I use on ceilings and walls. It adjusts from 2 to 4' I think, it perfect because I don't have to bend over to load the roller or to do the bottom of the wall, and is just right for ceilings.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

stripedbass said:


> Another stupid question: If I can touch the ceiling with my finger tips, while standing up, should I still have an extension on my 9-inch roller handle?
> 
> Just curious.
> 
> ...


I find that a 12 or 18 inch handle is the right length for painting walls.

When you're painting a ceiling, you want a longer handle, like 4 or 5 feet or so. If you use a shorter handle on ceilings, your arms will always be above shoulder height, and the result is that your arm muscles tire out quickly. A longer handle allows you to paint with your arms at chest height or lower, and your arm muscles don't tire out nearly as much.

About the only time I don't use an extension handle when painting with a roller is when I'm painting in close quarters, like a closet or maybe a hallway where there isn't ample room for a handle on your roller frame.

I also find that putting your painting tray on a Black & Decker Workmate really helps because the tray is at a comfortable height and you don't have to keep bending over all the time to refill the roller sleeve.

Another thing that saves a lot of time is using Pratt & Lambert's top-of-the-line "Accolade" line of paints. These paints DO NOT spatter, so I save a lot of time not having to spread out drop cloths everywhere, and I don't have to devote valuable storage space to storing a bunch of drop cloths.

I use a HomeRight C800369 paint roller cleaner to clean my roller sleeves. It cleans roller sleeves faster than any other roller cleaner that I know of. It has a FGHT (female garden hose thread) on it that allows you to screw it onto your laundry room sink faucet spout, and the water washes the paint out of the roller as you slide the roller sleeve up and down inside it. It'll handle up to a 3/4 inch nap roller sleeve, which you'll never need unless you're painting stucco.










In the above photo, the C800369 paint roller sleeve cleaner is the gray thing that's screwed on to the laundry sink faucet spout. The blue thing is the paint roller sleeve, and I think that steel tubing is supposed to be the roller frame from a "paint stick".

But, probably my greatest invention, and the one I'll go down in history for is my 3" paint roller spinner. You take the roller cage from a 3" roller frame and put a 6 inch long 1/4" bolt through it. Slather up both that bolt and the inside of a 1 1/2 inch long piece of 1/4 inch ID rubber tubing with glycerine (which you can buy at any pharmacy) and slide the rubber tubing onto the bolt to hold the cage snugly in place against the bolt hex head. Now, put that contraption in a variable speed drill, and you can spin dry your roller sleeves in a 5 gallon plastic pail in a minute or less, allowing you to reuse that roller sleeve right away if need be. Spinning the roller sleeve out inside the pail prevents you from spraying water all over the place.

PS: Glycerine has all of the properties of a very light oil like WD40, but it is actually an alcohol that evaporates completely without leaving any residue. It allows you to slide the rubber hose onto the bolt easily, but then the glycerine evaporates (even from between the rubber and the steel) resulting in the hose gripping the bolt to hold the cage snugly against the bolt head so that the cage doesn't spin on the bolt.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Nestor_Kelebay,

You're at a whole different level from idiots like me. :smile:

I've learned quite a bit from this kitchen ceiling of mine. The bubbles have now gone (thank God!).

Just gave it a second coat of finish. But I think it's going to require one or two more coats to get that consistent look. 

I'm using a 3/4" nap Purdy White Dove roller cover. I think I'm going to buy a new cover. I'll wait till tomorrow so that the paint can be truly dry, and I can get a real sense of how the second coat really looks like (I now know that paint gets darker when it dries). But what I'm noticing so far is that the roller cover did not leave a textured look on the areas where I sanded in order to get rid of the bubbles. So these areas look smooth while the surrounding areas are textured. My reasoning is that the cover no longer has its usual puffiness, which is why it cannot leave any texture on the ceiling. Does this make sense?


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I got timed out in terms of editing the previous post. What I was getting at is: Do roller covers leave a texture or pattern on the ceiling or am I imagining things? :smile:


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## klaatu (Mar 9, 2015)

stripedbass said:


> I got timed out in terms of editing the previous post. What I was getting at is: Do roller covers leave a texture or pattern on the ceiling or am I imagining things? :smile:


yes they do. A cheaper one will leave more texture then a Purdy white dove will. Get something around $2.00 and make sure to rinse the loose hairs off it before you use it.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Stripped Bass:

We're all idiots in here, but we learn from one another, and that helps a lot.

A 3/4 inch nap roller sleeve is way too thick for painting a smooth surface like untextured drywall. I normally use a 3/8 inch roller. I'm wondering if the sheer amount of paint that you were applying with that 3/4 inch roller might have been part of the problem(?)

Rollers do leave a "nubbly" texture. In order to reproduce that same texture after a repair, I simply apply two coats of latex primer to the repair before applying the paint. That way, the repair has the same colour and texture as the surrounding surfaces and blends in well.

Roller sleeve covers DO gradually lose their "fullness" each time you use them. I find that washing them out with that HomeRight C800369 tool gets the paint out quickly and spin drying them with a drill inside a 5 gallon pail gets the water out of the roller quickly too, but with each use of the roller you do lose some fullness.

Best to save those matted down rollers and use them for priming with alkyd primers where cleaning the alkyd primer out of the roller really isn't worth the time or bother.

Hope this helps.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yes 3/4 is a bit much I almost always use 1/2 and if you try the microfiber covers they leave even less stipple. I have come to really like the micros.

Nester is that tool you use plastic or metal ? It looks like metal I had a plastic one and really liked it. It broke and I could never find another one. A lot of guys don't bother to clean covers I usually do then use that cover for primer.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

It's now beginning to make sense, thanks to your replies.

First, what a great idea for re-using used roller covers: Use them to prime. Wonderful! I love re-using things, if I can. I just didn't know what to use them for.

Second, the 3/4" nap. I'm using this because my kitchen ceiling has a lot of imperfection and I find the texture hides them. 

Third, and most important, I think when I used my roller for the second coat, it applied a much smoother look which is not really good for my purposes because I'm trying to hide imperfections. For instance, on my first coat, when the cover was new and fluffy, it left a more distinct texture which hid the various spots that I had sanded all over the ceiling. I thought it was my imagination but now that you tell me that a cover does lose its texture with each use, it makes sense. 

Really appreciate the feedback.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I don't mean to complicate things but I have a question that I need to ask.

Paint roller covers, I've discovered, leave a texture on the surface that one is painting. 

I have been working on my kitchen ceiling for a while and it's been a major learning experience. 

I am now at the point where I've corrected many imperfections on the ceiling's plaster. This has involved patching various spots with either joint compound or Bondo (which has turned out to be a Godsend for tricky, shallow areas that needed patching). 

I originally used a 3/4" nap roller cover before I caught the latest imperfections. The idea was that 3/4" would be better at hiding the areas that I patched and sanded because of the more pronounced texture that is left on the surface. 

Now that I've patched and sanded all the trouble areas, I need to re-paint the whole kitchen ceiling. 

Should I stick with the 3/4" nap? Or should I go with a 1/2" nap or even something like 3/8", 5/16", or 1/2" nap? 

Basically, what would happen if I painted a ceiling that had paint that was put on with a 3/4" nap and re-painted with a lower nap? This is the big question. 

Any feedback will be highly appreciated. 

Thanks.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

I would just stick with a new 3/4 , if you think you can use it properly.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I agree the 3/4 left a pretty steep stipple a smaller nap wouldn't hide it. So would keep using what you have been.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Thanks!


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

One last question: 

Someone told me that if you do the first coat of finish on a ceiling in one direction, the second coat should be done in the perpendicular direction from the first coat. He said this will make the paint job come out better. 

Is this true? 

I have been painting all the coats in the same direction. But I'm willing to try another method if it works better.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

stripedbass said:


> One last question:
> 
> Someone told me that if you do the first coat of finish on a ceiling in one direction, the second coat should be done in the perpendicular direction from the first coat. He said this will make the paint job come out better.
> 
> ...


yes:yes:


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I will say this again: I love Bondo! If you're careful during sanding, the Bondo blends very well. I find joint compound really tricky to work with during repairs. Sometimes it shrinks when it dries, thus requiring a new layer. Or when you sand it, you sand too much and the imperfection remains. 

Some of you have suggested some particular kinds of quick hard setting joint compounds. I will look into them when this project is over.

Have finally worked out all the imperfections in my kitchen ceiling. Have primed them. Then given these spots two coats of paint (no bubbling). 

I now have to repaint the whole ceiling so that it hopefully has one uniform appearance. Right now, if you look carefully, you can make out where the roller cover went over the repair spots. Also, since I painted these spots with a now old roller cover, the repaired spots have a smooth appearance. My hope is that when I paint the whole ceiling with a brand new Purdy 3/4" nap cover, it will leave a texture, thus blending the spots with the rest of the ceiling's roller cover texture. This is the plan. We'll see. If this project ends as I hope, I'll really be pleased. It's been quite a task.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

When I painted my kitchen ceiling today I discovered an imperfection that I had not noticed before. If I decide to correct it, it will require applying some Bondo. Then sanding it. Then priming it. Then painting it with 2 coats of paint. 

In the past, when I've done such repairs, the repaired spots were noticeable, if you looked carefully. As a result, I had to repaint the entire ceiling. 

My question: Is there a way to make such repairs and not have to repaint the entire ceiling?


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## Thunder Chicken (May 22, 2011)

klaatu said:


> Two words-Glidden and Behr. Mediocre at best. Any issues with dust or dirt and poof!


Ancient history, but this. These paints take one-coat fast-drying to an extreme and guarantee that you have a layer of latex on the wall, but not adhered to it. Behr comes out of the can like mayonnaise sometimes it is so thick. 

If you absolutely have to use them, thinning them with a bit of water to a proper consistency helps.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Thanks, Thunder Chicken.



Thunder Chicken said:


> Ancient history, but this. These paints take one-coat fast-drying to an extreme and guarantee that you have a layer of latex on the wall, but not adhered to it. Behr comes out of the can like mayonnaise sometimes it is so thick.
> 
> If you absolutely have to use them, thinning them with a bit of water to a proper consistency helps.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Finally painted the whole kitchen ceiling today. It now has one, uniform look, thank God. 

This was a major learning lesson. 

I think I now know how to paint a ceiling, thanks to the very useful feedback I got on this forum. Instead of doing long lines, like when I started, I instead did rectangles and really soaked the roller cover. 

Now my next major job is removing the blue tape from the top of the walls without peeling paint since I've had this tape up for quite a long time. I'm thinking of using a hair dryer. In other words, heating a section of the tape before peeling it off. We'll see.


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## Thunder Chicken (May 22, 2011)

You generally want to pull masking tape as soon as you're done painting, while it is still mostly wet, to prevent peeling up the paint that you just put down.

You want to pull the tape as sharply against the wall as you can (i.e. don't just pull perpendicularly from the wall; fold the tape back on itself and slowly peel the tape off along the wall). This minimizes the force applied on the paint that would tend to pull it off the wall. Whether or not the tape pulls up the paint it was protecting depends on how well that paint adheres. I'm not sure you want to heat the tape as it will also heat and soften the paint underneath. I think "Pull and Pray" applies here.

Good luck. If anything pulls up, don't panic, it can be fixed. Just let it all dry and work on touching up the bad spots tomorrow.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever seen this method for getting rid of paint bubbles? Supposedly, you just need a hot iron. I found it when I was dealing with my bubbles but ended up not needing to use it. Anyway, check it out:


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Never heard of it.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

1) I'm really grateful for the advice I got on this forum regarding recycling roller covers and using them for priming. 

As you may know, I've bought a number of Purdy White Dove 3/4" nap roller covers for my kitchen ceiling paint job. 

2) At first I was throwing away the covers after using them. But after I got the recycling tip, I pulled them out of the sealed plastic bags that I was using to store them in. Then, beginning two days ago, I started washing them. Here's my tip: I find a walk-in shower (if you have one) the best place to clean a used roller cover. And you can do this when you yourself are taking a shower. I have now washed 3 roller covers.

3) With my Purdy White Dove 3/4" roller cover, I feel that I washed it so well that maybe I was able to restore its nap to maybe 90%. I'm attaching a photo of the cover below. Tell me what you truly think. Is its nap restored to around 90% of close? If I was to repaint my kitchen ceiling with this cover, would I get close to leaving the same texture that I left when I used it for the very first time? I'd really appreciate any feedback you can give for I love recycling. 

Thanks.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I can now die a happy, fulfilled man because I have now heard it all:
QUOTE:
"Then, beginning two days ago, I started washing them. Here's my tip: I find a walk-in shower (if you have one) the best place to clean a used roller cover. And you can do this when you yourself are taking a shower. I have now washed 3 roller covers."

Interesting, and, of course, if it works, I salute you stripedbass!!!


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Gymschu,

I kid you not. Being butt naked, in a walk-in shower, is the way to go, if you want to easily clean a roller cover. :smile:

No need to be shy about admitting this.



Gymschu said:


> I can now die a happy, fulfilled man because I have now heard it all:
> QUOTE:
> "Then, beginning two days ago, I started washing them. Here's my tip: I find a walk-in shower (if you have one) the best place to clean a used roller cover. And you can do this when you yourself are taking a shower. I have now washed 3 roller covers."
> 
> Interesting, and, of course, if it works, I salute you stripedbass!!!


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Striped bass, I am now trying very hard to eliminate mental images that you have created in my head............


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

stripedbass said:


> Gymschu,
> 
> I kid you not. Being butt naked, in a walk-in shower, is the way to go, if you want to easily clean a roller cover. :smile:
> 
> No need to be shy about admitting this.




Rolling them back and forth in a slop sink with the water running would be a lot easier.


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## Thunder Chicken (May 22, 2011)

stripedbass said:


> I kid you not. Being butt naked, in a walk-in shower, is the way to go, if you want to easily clean a roller cover.


Wife: Hey, you've been in the shower a long time! What are you doing in there?
Stripedbass: I'm cleaning my roller covers!
Wife: No, really, you can tell me.
Stripedbass: No, really, I'm cleaning my roller covers! Honest!


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Hi folks,

I had to return to this thread because I previously did not want to admit that I had some very stubborn spots on my kitchen ceiling that kept bubbling whenever I tried to repaint the ceiling.

Then I happened to be at my local Home Depot. I was in line to pay for something. Immediately ahead of me was a guy also waiting to pay for something. (He was Brazilian, he told me after I asked him where he was from.) He was clearly a painter from his paint-spattered clothes. 

Out of the blue, I decided to explain to him that I had been trying to repaint my kitchen ceiling and kept getting bubbling in certain spots. I asked him whether he knew of something that I could use to prevent the bubbling. 

He advised me to scrape off the bubbles and spray on this product:

Zinsser BIN Shellack-Base Primer Ultimate Stain Blocker.

He said that from his experience, the shellack-base stain blocker is the only one that really does the trick.

He explained that after scrapping off the bubbles I needed to apply new joint compound to the trouble pots. Then when the joint compound dried and I sanded it I needed to spray on the same Zinsser shellack stuff. Then paint. 

He said that if I still got bubbles then I had to cut the sheetrock and install new sheetrock.

Well, I did as he advised. Guess what? There was no bubbling!

I just had to share this info, in case it's of help to someone else.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Bin probably was not needed but we would have told you the same thing.


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