# texture on wall vs. spackled spots



## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Some colors, sheens, and paints, are more 'hiding' than others
Flatter paints will show less, shinier more
Lighter colors will show less, darker more

But with roller stipple (bumps), or lack of it over repair areas in your case, it's tough
Sometimes aggressive sanding of the high stippled paint is in order, to smooth it out around the repair area
Sometimes a few 'spot coats' of rollered paint over the repairs can build a little stipple

Mostly it's tough as some paints level out well, some leave more stipple, and different sleeves can leave more/less stipple

How many top coats (color coats) have you used?
If it's only one, then it will show less with coat #2
But I'd sand down the high stipple around the repair areas and spot coat the areas before the final top coat


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## diylady (Mar 7, 2007)

I used 1 coat primer and 2 coats of benjamin moore eggshell paint. So if I wanted to build up the spackled area what finish/paint would you recommend and what kind of sleeve would you use??Thanks for the help.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

If it's the Regal line from Ben Moore, there's not much better out there
If there's two coats of eggshell on it now, it would have to be pretty unsightly for me to want to so anther full coat on it
You can't easily "touch up" eggshell, so if you did build up some stipple on the repair areas, you'd need to re-coat the whole wall after

If that's going to be the plan, I would try and build up stipple with a mini-roller and a "string" type roller/sleeve, 1/2" nap if available, then roll the whole wall with a 1/2" nap 50/50 wool/poly (or a Purdy White Dove) regular 9" roller/sleeve
But if that going to be the plan (another coat), I'd sand the wall around the repairs to try and "knock down" the old stipple bumps also


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## End Grain (Nov 17, 2007)

*DIYLady*, if the texture on your wall is "orange peel" or "knockdown", you can buy a spray can of either type in HD or Lowes or ACE. Simply select light, medium or heavy spray and try a few practice sprays on a scrap piece of drywall or wood. Orange peel's easy to replicate right out of the can. Knockdown is a two-step process and a bit more difficult to match or blend textures and patterns.


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## diylady (Mar 7, 2007)

I am not planning on fixing the walls that I've already painted, just planning on trying to do it right in the next room. String type roller sleeves?? Can you tell me who makes them?? Will have to take a look in Home Depot to see if I can figure out what you are talking about. Thanks


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

A mini roller (sometimes called a hot dog roller) is about 4" long (though they have longer ones)










They are available at your local paint store
They'll have foam sleeves, and mohair sleeves, but those leave less stipple

If you are trying to fix a wall to be painted, you may get by w/o one by using the roller you'll be using for the walls later
The best thing to do would be some extra sanding around the repair area, to try and knockdown some of the old stipple
Then "spot paint" the repair with a few coats with the roller you will be using to paint the wall with to try and build up some stipple
A larger nap (like 1/2") may help a little


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## DrDave (Dec 16, 2007)

I'm doing the same right now. I have a wall where I had to repair then match the knock down texture that was done over 30 years ago.

I'm using a method taught to me 40 years ago by a Master Carpenter. It is very simple, take a bag from a loaf of bread and place it over your hand and secure it with rubber bands at the elbow. Next dip it in your drywall mud (some textures require thinning it with some water first) then blotching it against the wall and feathering it into the existing texture. Sometimes you have to do it more than once to get it right, but if you are patient, you can do it. It will be greatly exagerated until you knock down and sand.

Then knock down after it starts to set then leave it to dry before lightly sanding with a block. I use the open mesh screen not sand paper. When it matches you are ready for paint. If not, it is easy to repeat until you get the desired effect.

I hope this helps.


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## diylady (Mar 7, 2007)

Thanks to all for your help!!


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## joewho (Nov 1, 2006)

DIY lady, you can go with a rougher sandpaper, like 120 and use a light pressure to leave a little rougher surface, but sanded, not scratched.

Also, on the textures, a lot of times I just lay mud on the wall and "pat" it with my knife to raise the mud. Then lay it off after it sets up a little bit.

This works with knock down and trowelled texture matching, on small repairs.


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