# Porch column base rotted



## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*check w/ manufacturer*

Check w/ the manufacturer on the load capacity of the plinth, then you or somebody else needs to know what load is on the column (house and snow, if any, wind loads, etc.) A 7" column sitting on a 6" hole does not leave much for bearing area, so that is a concern, too. I have no idea what supports the edge of that 6" hole in the plinth, and something better be. I think you better show an engineer what you have and get a calculation or two done.


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

jklingel said:


> Check w/ the manufacturer on the load capacity of the plinth, then you or somebody else needs to know what load is on the column (house and snow, if any, wind loads, etc.) A 7" column sitting on a 6" hole does not leave much for bearing area, so that is a concern, too. I have no idea what supports the edge of that 6" hole in the plinth, and something better be. I think you better show an engineer what you have and get a calculation or two done.


The load capacity of the Aluminum plinth was of concern of mine with the 6" hole. I had called the manufacture and mentioned which plinth I was interested in and weight capacity of it. The answer for the 12X12X 1 3/4" mentioned is 2500 pounds per square inch. I figured 2500 pounds for one plinth was enough, but 2500 per square inch is over kill. If I can find a picture of it I will post it.
A 1 1/2" high by approx. 11"X11" square piece of wood has to sit on the plinth with cap sitting on top of it than column. That will make it the correct height matching the other posts.
No snow in this area, winds never excessive (City of Los Angeles)
I just spoke with the manufacture again and they claim to have had these plinths tested for strength in early stages of production..
www.lawlermfg.com in Alabama. Is sending me one for free to inspect..


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*no bearing area*

A 7" post sitting on a 6" hole only has about 10 sqr inches for bearing area. I would wonder if that is enough for the wood you have. I have no idea what the load capacity psi of wood is, esp old, somewhat weakened wood. I'd sure ask an engineer about that; at least look it up online and get a feel. If your 2500 lb load is accurate, that leaves about 250 psi, which sounds like a lot to ask of a piece of wood. Sounds, but I don't know. If the plywood is in between the plinth (what a funny name!) and the column, then that should give more bearing area; maybe at a 45 degree angle? I believe gravel under footers does that. Food to ask a qualified individual about. Good luck, and let us know what you learn. Thanks. john


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

jklingel said:


> A 7" post sitting on a 6" hole only has about 10 sqr inches for bearing area. I would wonder if that is enough for the wood you have. I have no idea what the load capacity psi of wood is, esp old, somewhat weakened wood. I'd sure ask an engineer about that; at least look it up online and get a feel. If your 2500 lb load is accurate, that leaves about 250 psi, which sounds like a lot to ask of a piece of wood. Sounds, but I don't know. If the plywood is in between the plinth (what a funny name!) and the column, then that should give more bearing area; maybe at a 45 degree angle? I believe gravel under footers does that. Food to ask a qualified individual about. Good luck, and let us know what you learn. Thanks. john


Thanks John, I appreciate your info..
But did you understand what I meant that a one and one half inch thick square 11X11" block of wood will go on top of plinth (hell of a strange name) . Than the cap than the column. 7 1/2" column ( 6" at top 7-1/2" at bottom) will be sitting on the 11X11X1-1/2 square wood.. Just as you see the post in the picture except the aluminum plinth will be at bottom.. Would not use 1/2" plywood as I need the 1-1/2" height. But than can the 11X11X1-1/2" wood handle the 6" hole. Even thinking of a 1/4" aluminum plate on plinth with small hole in it covering the 6" hole..


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*guess*

Yes; got it on the plywood "load spreader". Sounds like it will work, but I really don't know at what angle the load will spread into the plywood and then the plinth, so I don't know how much more bearing you will have. My guess is you'd be fine w/ 1 1/2" of plywood, as you'd then have (if 45 degree angle) a 10 1/2" wide post, effectively. That is a lot more area than a 7 1/2" post. Run the area numbers and see what your psi reduces to; I'd still run it by an engineer, as I am making assumptions here about angle and psi that would will take in compression, etc. Have a good one. john


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

jklingel said:


> Yes; got it on the plywood "load spreader". Sounds like it will work, but I really don't know at what angle the load will spread into the plywood and then the plinth, so I don't know how much more bearing you will have. My guess is you'd be fine w/ 1 1/2" of plywood, as you'd then have (if 45 degree angle) a 10 1/2" wide post, effectively. That is a lot more area than a 7 1/2" post. Run the area numbers and see what your psi reduces to; I'd still run it by an engineer, as I am making assumptions here about angle and psi that would will take in compression, etc. Have a good one. john


Thanks John, will consider checking with an engineer..


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

*advise*

pls advise what you learn. my money says you'll be fine. thnx. j


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

Update: I move slow as you can tell by the dates. And I can not believe it was back in May.. WOW !!! time flys...
Have all the parts needed for my repair and replacement of column bases. I will be using a 1/8' aluminum plate not mentioned before. It will sit on top of the aluminum base as shown in picture. I had 4 round caps made and 4 blocks of wood cut to go onto base. All vented from bottom and will be vent at top area as needed. Also have stainless steel screening to keep bugs out of column. All pieces will be screwed together with stainless screws. The round caps cost $15 each to make using my wood, thought that was a super deal. All Wood is the premium douglas fir, not cheap.
Will also be drilling 2 holes in concrete for metal studs that aluminum base will sit over. They will be under 2 corners of base caddy corner from each other to stop any movement from an earthquake. Present column set up never was secured to ground or at top and has gone thru the worst So. Cal. earth quakes without movement since 1948 when my parents moved in. Wood railing is what was holding poles in place, were not secured to ground in any way. Right column was not sucured to top either.
Will be installing these new parts this week in preparation for house painting. Last picture is just loose fit, not installed, as I have other primed pieces ready.

First picture right Column now in place and secured. 2 metal studs in cement under aluminum base at 2 corners caddy corner from each other to keep from sliding .
Porch was extremely easy to lift, cannot be very heavy.
Comments welcomed.


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

The columns have been done for months now but the painting of the house that followed was completed in Dec. Thought I would show results. I mentioned the front windows would be replaced but decided to keep originals. I added a few strips of wood to top part of windows for added looks. Added red wood to front door area and porch ceiling. The porch surface was ground down and sealed. 
1920's Craftman Bungalow


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## dtsman (Jan 1, 2011)

Perfect!

Thanks for posting back with pics. Everything pictured is right on the money for the correct way to make this repair and the outcome is proof.


Bo

Remember,
If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy. 
(Red Green)


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

agreed:thumbup:2500 lbs is relatively light load


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## Lieberman01 (Oct 25, 2011)

Hi Rick. I have a 1925 Victorian home I am getting ready to paint and I live the colors you've chosen for our house. If you could shar the paint code or the name of the paint and brand I would appreciate it.

Thank you,

Jonie


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Lieberman01 said:


> Hi Rick. I have a 1925 Victorian home I am getting ready to paint and I live the colors you've chosen for our house. If you could shar the paint code or the name of the paint and brand I would appreciate it.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jonie


Looks to be light green, dark green and white.


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

Lieberman01 said:


> Hi Rick. I have a 1925 Victorian home I am getting ready to paint and I live the colors you've chosen for our house. If you could shar the paint code or the name of the paint and brand I would appreciate it.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Jonie


Hey Jonie, the paint brand for all 3 colors is Benjamin Moore. The light olive color is paint code HC-90 low lustre. Not sure of the name of color but it does look like a light olive. During certain time of the day it looks like kind of a darker tan. All the colors are my Wife's picks and stood by those colors months before the painting with me very unsure and and trying to change her mind to other colors. The results were GREAT, couldn't be more happy and with the neighbors and drive-bys stopping to praise the work and the rave reviews, we know we went the right way with the Wife's color picks..
The lighter trim color is one of the off whites and as you can see the green is dark. The left over paint cans no longer show the code after sitting for a year.
I will see if I can find the code numbers to the other colors in our file and post them if I find them.

Rick

PS. Ok, after doing a color check with BenJ M. on line, HC-90 shows up as a different color than we used, yet my 5 gallon container shows HC90. Will check farther..


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## Lieberman01 (Oct 25, 2011)

Thank you Rick. If you could get the white color that would be fantastic. I don't want to stark of a contrast and with so many variations of white and I like how yours blends with the lighter green. 

My husband is getting ready to replace the plinths on our columns. Ours our rotted and sit at the edge of the porch where they get hit with water whenever it rains. I showed him your post and he may have a question or two.


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

Lieberman01 said:


> Thank you Rick. If you could get the white color that would be fantastic. I don't want to stark of a contrast and with so many variations of white and I like how yours blends with the lighter green.
> 
> My husband is getting ready to replace the plinths on our columns. Ours our rotted and sit at the edge of the porch where they get hit with water whenever it rains. I showed him your post and he may have a question or two.


No problem asking questions, I'll do what I can do answer them.
Will have to wait to ask my Wife about the color codes.


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## RickO (May 24, 2010)

Jonie, got the info you want.

Benjamin Moore
Moorgard low lustre
Main house color- Code HC98 providence olive
Off White trim-Code 915 cameo white
Dark green- Code HC-135 Lafayette green

You can check these colors out on line, just type in code and color name only. For me, I had to see these colors test painted on the walls, even than I was not sure till the whole wall was painted, than WOW !!!
Good luck,
Rick


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