# range hood through the wall - - -stud in the way



## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

As a newlywed I have been trying to fix up a 1940's house for the last year and a half. The kitchen is an addition the previous owner put on in the early eighties and had a recirculating range hood. As we finally got married and have new kitchen wares flooding in I decided to take down the old range hood that did nothing to stop the grease from settling on everything and nothing to stop the smoke alarm from going off.

Upon pulling down the old range hood, and prepping the new range hood (knocking out the duct opening in the back) i noticed there is a stud right in the center of the opening behind the stove where the duct would go.

So can I cut through that stud to get the duct through the wall, and then put some bracing between the other studs to support it. If so what would be the best way to do this? 

Or is that more trouble than I am thinking, and should I try and run the duct through the cabinet and then out the wall which would mean many elbows and losing some of the little cabinet space we have.

I have included pictures in case that helps.

Any advice would be appreciated.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

I know what I would do... :whistling2:


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*please share*

What would you do?


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

pacifier1er said:


> What would you do?


Cut the stud right out. Your house is not going to fall down.


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## dc4nomore (Oct 1, 2008)

Do you know if the wall is a load-bearing wall?


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*I would think it is load bearing*

I thought all four external walls were load bearing. 

As the kitchen is an addition there is no attic for me to look at the joist. I did look under the crawl space and think this wall runs perpendicular to the floor joist.

Thanks


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## Marvin Gardens (Sep 30, 2008)

You wanna do it right?

Have you ever put in a header?


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## dc4nomore (Oct 1, 2008)

pacifier1er said:


> I thought all four external walls were load bearing.
> 
> As the kitchen is an addition there is no attic for me to look at the joist. I did look under the crawl space and think this wall runs perpendicular to the floor joist.
> 
> Thanks


Is there anything above the kitchen? They had to of at least extended the roof line or something when they put in the addition, thereby creating somewhat of an attic above...

But you could always just play it safe, and install a header, as Marvin suggested. It would be super easy too since you would only be removing that one stud...

Were you planning on taking the duct up or down once you get it into the wall? Or since that is an exterior wall, are you basically planning on just dumping it straight outside from the opening you cut?


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

You should not cut the stud out. :no: It would be the easiest thing to do, but if that wall is a bearing wall it needs that stud. If cutting the stud out is necessary, a short 2x6 header would easily take carry the loads down.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

I know ( I hear you load and clear) that you do not want to lose any cabinet space. BUT, the header and stud removal, access through the top plate etc. ) will be 7 to 10 times more involved than ducting through the cabinet.

This is time better spent making grand children.


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*straight through the wall*

Thanks to everyone for your help so far.

In answer to your questions, if I can figure out the header, I will go straight through the wall.

There is some space above the ceiling, but it is not accessible.

I have never put in a header but I am hoping I can do it myself (I guess that's why I am at the DIY chatroom  ) 

I found this article, http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infrec.html#2 talking about the procedure and I have some 2x6s and 2x4s from earlier projects, so I think it is doable.

I am still a bit worried about the insulation (fiberglass) and also taking down the cabinet to put the header in. Any advice, articles, etc. would be appreciated.

Oh and the grandchildren will hopefully (god willing) come after we get the house fixed up.

Thanks again to all.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

thekctermite said:


> You should not cut the stud out. :no: It would be the easiest thing to do, but if that wall is a bearing wall it needs that stud. If cutting the stud out is necessary, a short 2x6 header would easily take carry the loads down.


I was waiting for the "Do not cut the stud" comment.  Hey thats why I made the comment of " I know what I would do" :whistling2:


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Chris you WOOD BUTCHER! :laughing:


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

thekctermite said:


> Chris you WOOD BUTCHER! :laughing:


 
I know... hey just for the record, I would only do this to my own house, and not someone else's property, if it makes you feel any better. :laughing:


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## dc4nomore (Oct 1, 2008)

pacifier1er said:


> Thanks to everyone for your help so far.
> 
> In answer to your questions, if I can figure out the header, I will go straight through the wall.
> 
> ...


Ok, putting in the header will be a bit of a project, but will be easy. You will have to remove quite a bit of drywall and most likely that wall cabinet directly above the oven. Your proposed opening for the exhaust is pretty close to the underside of that cabinet and the header must go above the exhaust vent.

Basically I would start by breaking out the drywall around the proposed opening and that stud in the middle. You want to break the drywall away all the way to the next closest stud on each side (these will be called your king studs) of the one you want to remove. Also break it away all the way to the floor and about 12 inches above the highest point of your proposed location for the vent. 

To construct the header, cut 2 2x6's to fit the width between the two king studs on each side. Nail these together really well with a piece of 3/8" plywood in between. 

Mark the height you will want the header...at least a few inches above the top of your exhaust vent. Then cut 4 2x4's to length to fit between the base plate and the bottom of where the header will go. Nail 2 on each side of your opening, right up against your king studs. These 2x4's you just added are called your trimmer studs.

Cut the bottom part of your center stud away so that it will just rest on the header when you put it in - actually make it a tiny bit long so it is really snug.

Now set the header on top of the trimmer studs and beneath whats left of the center stud. Toe nail everything in securely and your done. Of course you've still got to cut the hole for the vent and put the insulation back and put up new drywall and paint...but piece of cake :wink:

Oh and don't worry about the fiberglass insulation...just wear gloves and full clothes and a good mask. Close the kitchen off if you can and clean up really well afterwards.

I've never removed a cabinet without destroying it in the process, so maybe somebody else can offer some tips on that.

Oh and you might need to construct a temporary support to hold the weight until you get the header in...but since you are only removing one stud and it will only be unsupported for a few minutes tops, you might be ok without it.

Hope that helps...


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

I'm with Chris on this one... if you are going straight through the wall.. from the pic it looks like one stud in the middle. 

The alternative is take the cabinet down ( probably 30") stud in the middle ..hmm 1' each side behind OTHER cabinets to reach studs if 16" OC.

tricky top cut on stud unless you have a Fein master tool ( 4 payments of $$$) PROPERLY REMOVE DRYWALL behind range and install double studs on each side to soul plate to support new header.. sandwiched 2x6 & 1/2 ply wood in center glued and nailed 4-6 in on centers staggered pattern.. placed above your through wall opening. Properly flash the exterior opening around the new vent (duct) with proper damper.... Now ..It really starts to get a little tricky...seal duct to back of range hood and insert through the wall...install range hood with one hand or with the mother of your future children...know that this team work effort may cause a strain on your newlywed relationship and effect the timing of future offspring...
OR
You could buy a Mcormmick spice rack ($27) and go through the cabinet and the roof.


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## dc4nomore (Oct 1, 2008)

Or would it be possible to just offset the vent so that you go around the stud in the center? That would save your cabinet space and avoid 90% of the work I described in my other post.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

hmm. Duct outlet is probably dead center 3 X 10 at back of range hood..
I don't think offset is an option if cabinet installer hit the stud ( see pic) dead center...but he could have made a bad guess...???


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## Marvin Gardens (Sep 30, 2008)

Take it one step at a time and just bear the wall and see what you have. My guess is that you won't have to take out the cabinets.


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*offsetting elbows*

That was my original thought, but it actually seems like it would be harder to offset through the cabinet, as would need two or three elbows every way I figured.

As for going through the roof, that really scares me.

I took down the old range hood (the recirculating one), holding it with one arm while unscrewing, and it was covered with grease so putting up the new one, should be better I would think, and hopefully a friend will be around to hold it.

So if I do put in a header do I just need to nail the trimmer studs to the king stud or to the base plate as well? (trying to figure how much drywall I need to remove.) Also do I need two trimmer studs for each side of the opening?

Lastly Bob I know too well from the past year how asking for a hand from my wife (then fiance) can affect our relationship , and luckily she still married me. I try now to always have enough pizza and beer on hand to help out when friends stop by to lend a hand. The beer helps also when she finds receipts for tools. 

Thanks to all, I truly appreciate the advice.


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*cabinet*

Bob is right, the stud is dead center.

I am pretty sure that I need to remove the cabinet, as the header needs to go where it is. Any ideas on making this smooth?

Thanks again to all.


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

pacifier1er said:


> Bob is right, the stud is dead center.
> 
> I am pretty sure that I need to remove the cabinet, as the header needs to go where it is. Any ideas on making this smooth?
> 
> Thanks again to all.


Whats above the kitchen? attic or finished space?


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## dc4nomore (Oct 1, 2008)

pacifier1er said:


> So if I do put in a header do I just need to nail the trimmer studs to the king stud or to the base plate as well? (trying to figure how much drywall I need to remove.) Also do I need two trimmer studs for each side of the opening?


You will need to nail the trimmer studs to the king stud as well as to the baseplate - so the drywall will need to be removed all the way to the floor. Typically, two trimmer studs are used on each side, but since you are only going to be removing one stud, you would probably be alright with just one on each side.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

pacifier1er said:


> Bob is right, the stud is dead center.
> 
> I am pretty sure that I need to remove the cabinet, as the header needs to go where it is. Any ideas on making this smooth?
> 
> Thanks again to all.


OK.. make this smooth... Cabinet removal

Pull the gas range and disconnect...you will need the room to work.

1. empty cabinet...do not empty the spirits in a glass until you have completed the project.
2. Locate screws and double check that you have the correct good bit for your cordless drill. check the screws in the cabinets next to the over range upper they will need to stay up when you remove the cabinet. A good cabinet installer would have screwed the cabinets together through the hardwood face...this keeps the butt joint at the face smooth and flush. ... #2 roberts head or square head cabinet screws are often used there. ( remove these first and save for reinstall)

If you don't have a third hand ...screw some 1 X to the back wall to help support the cab when you remove the last screw (cabinet to wall). start removing screws at the bottom. 

Be sure you measure and can ID the location for the duct on something other than the drywall you are about to remove. 

Study the romex and plan for this to pass through your new header if it feeds from above. (Kill the power when you do this). Tape a long cord on the end to feed through your new drywall or have fun fishing...

Lots of good posts on how to: the header and legs. 

Let us know if you need more info. Stay safe


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*Thanks*

Thanks, it all seems pretty clear. I will tell you how it goes next weekend.


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## pacifier1er (May 29, 2007)

*almost there, one more question*

So after having to take a few weeks away from the kitchen to visit parents, etc. I took the drywall and insulation out.

I cut my header and my jack studs, but wasn't sure what to do about the diagonal bracing. I can't fit in the jack studs with the diagonal there. 

Can I cut that piece out if I am putting the header and a sill in? I figure that would be enough bracing, but I wasn't sure 100%. There are a couple cabinets to the right where the diagonal comes from, so is it helping support those?

My buddy is taking me to the game tonight (Monday night football!!!) for my birthday, but I need to get the drywall back up tomorrow night, as I don't think the wife is too happy about the state of "her kitchen". 

Please tell me if I can cut the bracing out, and if there is anything I need to look for before I do. Thanks as always.


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## Marvin Gardens (Sep 30, 2008)

Happy Birthday.

Cut the piece out.

Watch out for flying wood chips.


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## Anything Once (Mar 4, 2009)

I've been pondering this same problem at my house. My conclusion? Rather than tear out and replace drywall, etc, I'm going to cut the stud. The house is sheathed in plywood, and this outer wall is supported by that plywood more than the studs - particularly in my one-story ranch. In this situation, cutting a stud poses no threat to the integrity of my home. If I feel like it when I actually get around to doing the work, I might take a 3.25" piece of 1' diameter steel pipe, and wedge it inside the ductwork between the two ends of the 2x4. Even with the pipe/brace, I'm sure an inspector would holler about my work. Oh, well.


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## dwcouch (Sep 1, 2011)

*Me too! And I'll raise you a bundle of electrical.*

Good thread. It has been very informative. I had just about decided to remove the cabinets, and cut out the drywall (that has been recently installed) and add in the header and sill. 

However after reviewing what is required to build the header: 
3/8 - 1/2 inch plywood sandwiched by 2 2x6 secured between the remaining studs on either side of the cut one.

This is not an option for me. To the right of the stud I need to cut are just about every wire in the house on it's way out of the breaker box just below the plate at the bottom of the wall in question.

Initially I had planned on running my duct just to the right of the stud immediately between the the stud and all of that wiring. However, I cannot get the elbow configured in such a way that it will go straight out the side of the house.

I realize this thread is a bit old, nut there was a lot of great discussion on it, and any new ideas will be much appreciated.

Here are links to my project thus far:
The CAD drawings from my planing phase
The kitchen finished to date 
The Wall (and wiring) before we finished it.

P.S. pacifier1er - I hope your project came out a success!


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## dwcouch (Sep 1, 2011)

There was a recent view of the photo's I posted so I thought I'd make a new update.

I was able to twist the rings in the elbow just enough to get around the stud.
In addition for a secure mount for the hood bracket, I inserted a stud sideways with a lateral piece to tie into the existing stud.
Done!

Now two years later....
We've finally gotten around to adding a backsplash. And ironically found that the sheetrock seem that landed on this same stud was approximately 1/8" recessed from the others. In effect causing the tile to dip in toward the wall. I had to pull sheetrock again, shim it out, and will soon be finishing the tile job too.

Hope that helps somebody.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Is this on an exterior wall, where the fan will blow right outside, or do you have to run the duct work through the soffit, assuming you have one?


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