# Framing angled wall



## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

I've got a angled wall intersection where a square wall meets an angled wall. 

How can i frame it so that the very edge of the sheetrock is secured to some framing? I'm worried an unsecured edge is going to crack overtime.


The angled wall is for a doorway.

Thanks


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

your concerns are justified !!!
you should always have a "nailer" behind all edges and 
joints of drywall - or suffer the consequences for eternity.
I would cut a wall stud on the table saw to the angle that
the "wedge" would fit snugly into the gap.
if you are not familiar with the process, use a piece of cardboard 
to make a template then cut the stud to that profile.
if the contractor or builder insists there is no wood in the metal
studs, you can figure out how to bridge the gap with sheet metal.
IMO, it really doesn't matter what the drywall is fastened to,
just as long as it is securely fastened to something.

something like this . . . . . .


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

if the contractor or builder insists there is no wood to be used
in the framing with metal studs, you can brake some sheet metal
to bridge the gap.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I can only tell you how I do it. And that is start off with the top and bottom plates cut to the correct miter angle. The last stud on the end runs parallel with the miter. Take the next size up 2x lumber and rip the 2 edges to the meet the required angles. You are essentially creating a parallelogram with the last stud. 

If the angle is shallow enough, may not even be needed. Remember your screw will likely be back off the edge 1 to 1 1/2 inches anyway.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Could've just bent the flanges of the corner studs to match the angle and butted them together. Angle doesn't look big enough that the stud being off perpendicular would make a huge difference.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jaketrades said:


> I've got a angled wall intersection where a square wall meets an angled wall.
> 
> How can i frame it so that the very edge of the sheetrock is secured to some framing? I'm worried an unsecured edge is going to crack overtime.
> 
> ...


Just make sure the studs are screwed together so they support each other the drywall is fine like that.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Take one of the metal tracks that you already have cut one leg off install & screw to one stud


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If we think the drywall will crack, we must also think one drywall will move independent of the other. If the studs are attached to each other, good luck trying to make it crack. 



What is missing is the drywall backing at the next intersecting wall.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Having that small unsupported area at the edge of the sheetrock is not the problem since flex tape will be used to mud the corner together.

The real problem is that both edges of both studs have to be stable with respect to each other in order to hold the sheetrock. As others have stated, this can be done with milled wood or steel shims. Any of those methods will give the framer the ability to screw that "loose" (open end of the "V") end to the shim and then to the second stud, locking it all together.

In my opinion, strapping would not provide the stability you want - yes, it would strengthen when the studs were trying to pull apart (widening the "V"), however, the strap will simply buckle if the studs were pushed towards each other (narrowing the "V").

Don't let the contractor try and convince you that the sheetrock will hold the outer edges from flapping - sheetrock is not a structural element.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Are you guys kidding, 3 screws where the studs meet on the one side, done. 

If the studs can't move, there is no problem.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Are you guys kidding, 3 screws where the studs meet on the one side, done.
> 
> If the studs can't move, there is no problem.


Nope - no kidding implied.

Seems metal AND wood angles require proper structure - given quick searches...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Domo said:


> Nope - no kidding implied.
> 
> Seems metal AND wood angles require proper structure - given quick searches...


 Both of those samples have the studs wrong. see where the last stud is in the OP picture, that stud is in the right place and solves all the problems. 

The last stud on one wall is at the long point of the corner. 



The sheet rock you would think is free floating is attached to a stud 3" away and does get to lean on the last stud in the first wall. If those studs are attached to each other there can be no movement.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Both of those samples have the studs wrong. see where the last stud is in the OP picture, that stud is in the right place and solves all the problems.
> 
> The last stud on one wall is at the long point of the corner.
> 
> ...


... and the other stud doesn't even have a screw at the bottom plate...

Ah well, each to their own...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Domo said:


> ... and the other stud doesn't even have a screw at the bottom plate...
> 
> Ah well, each to their own...


I don't follow what you mean. there a two ways that experienced framers build the wall. Don't forget that the studs get screwed together down the sides.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> I don't follow what you mean. there a two ways that experienced framers build the wall. Don't forget that the studs get screwed together down the sides.


OP's picture didn't show a screw in the bottom plate to hold the left stud at the angle. - However, there IS a screw gun laying on the floor...


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

You can use the metal corner bead under the sheetrock as reinforcement. Bend it to the angle you need. Not easy to screw into, so sharp screws or predrill.


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## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

Sounds like there are a lot of ways I can solve this issue. I've got an entire building front wall full of angles (see pic) that I'm going to apply the provided solution to as well.

Appreciate the help!!!


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## finisher65 (Apr 7, 2019)

We have framed & drywalled many dozens of corners like you have in your OP.
Never had a problem, callback concerning these type of corner in 30yrs. In a house I'd fill it in for certain.


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## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

Framed the outside corners with metal studs and wood inside the corner.

After I sheetrock this corner, do I cover the seam with a metal outside corner bead and just bend it to fit the corner?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)




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