# AC Compressor Wires Melted Off



## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

Check this out...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqRyrI8gQ2w


----------



## diyourselfer (Feb 25, 2009)

Looks like those would work as they have some that go over the spade and the post. Any ideas on how to remove the pieces of the old connector that are melted in between the spade and the post? Also, is there is any electrical hazard with touching the wires or the posts after I've yanked the disconnect fuse from the wall?


----------



## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

I have never done this repair but I could remove all of that junk with a quality sharp pair of side cutters easy peasy and have an almost round post left to attach the new lugs.

It should be safe but ALWAYS double check all conductors with a known working meter after disconnecting. I doubt there is still a charge on the capacitor but check it for voltage and also short all lugs to the case just as a precaution.


----------



## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

Have someone else who is good working with tools chomp that stuff off if you don't want to chance damaging the pins. I wouldn't use the kit that will fit over the old lugs, but that's just me.


----------



## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

first make sure the compressor is still good by way of checking ohms (continuity) from one compressor terminal to the next and then the next one to the next and so on. Each terminal should show continuity from one to either of the other two and have a small range such as 2,3,4, some small number. No two numbers will be the same but close to each other as the totality of the numbers equals the entire motor windings range. 

If that's good then check each terminal to ground. You can use the copper attached to the compressor as ground, just scrape the meter lead on the copper a few times. If there is continuity from any or all terminals to ground the compressor is shot. If not, proceed with a new wiring harness. Once that is all taken care of have a contractor come and check refrigerant charge and charge as needed (if not too much needed, that is).

Now you need to know why those wires melted, high amps. Make sure condenser coil is clean (water wash with hose from inside out until water comes out through coil clean), make sure your capacitor is within range and lastly I'd install a compressor start kit. 

Now if you actually do need a new compressor I'd lean towards a new complete system if I were you. Money much better invested. New compressors on old evaporators are a failure waiting to happen and that's money just wasted on a new compressor.


----------



## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

they are bouncing when the compressor is running.my neighbor had these burn off 3X in one summer.the compressor always rang out good...you have to use angles crimp -ons and make sure the wire is as straight in as possible so from the crimp.remove the wires mark them C,R,S light sanding use a needle nose to 1X slip the new connecter on.if it isn't tight redo it has to be tight.i used cut pieces of armaflex to cut down on the wires bouncing and as straight in as I could get them....check out thread on here..


----------



## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

the terminal thread.. http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/terminals-blown-out-196456/ there isn't much movement on a scroll but the slight humming can ark the terminals just enough to overheat the insulation grainger might have heavier side crimp terminals can use standard ones


----------



## diyourselfer (Feb 25, 2009)

Just wanted to provide an update to this, thanks for the assistance. Due to a storm that was coming, I was only able to take a brush and clean off the the coils on the backside of the of the unit near the compressor and re-attached the wires with some new connectors.

That repair lasted about 2 weeks and one of the wires melted off from the connector today. Granted the other connectors I used were not the same gauge as the wire, so could of been a factor there. Lowe's/Home Depot didn't have any QwikLugs so I just bought some off eBay and will be later in the week.

In the meantime, I attached some connectors that were the same gauge as the wire and got it working again today. My concern now is that these too will begin melt in a few weeks time and I don't want to attach the $20 QwikLugs and have it melt those too after I thoroughly clean the rest of the coils.

I don't know how to check the capacitor to see if it's "in range", from the looks of it I don't see any signs of melting coming off the wires from that though. Maybe it's just worth replacing that if it's $20-$30 or could something else be the cause of the melting?


----------



## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

windings of the compressor are wearing thing, capacitor is weak, possibly both. compressor is pulling far too many amps. Those wires (insulation on wires) are rated for heat, high amps cause too much heat thus melts wires. 

you'll be buying a new compressor/condenser/complete system before too long.

Save your $20, put it towards the complete system. 

In the meantime you can try a hard start kit.


----------



## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

true story: two days ago I went on a maintenance check up. I checked out system, told customer he needed a new capacitor as his was out of range, weak. (think batteries in a flashlight)

Customer declined, stating he would just run his system till it died. 

Today on my schedule same customer reappears, a no cool, notes stating that I damaged his system.

I call him after my first call to confirm appt., he says he couldn't wait for me (office told him I was on another call) so he called out another tech. 

Problem: weak cap caused compressor to pull high amps and burned a wire off. 

Professionally I had all suggestions on paper so his (cheap ass) fault as I TOLD HIM SO! :wink: 

Anyways, get you a digital clamp meter that tests capacitance and amps, we can walk you through how to check.


----------



## CWO4GUNNER (Aug 18, 2014)

Doc Holliday said:


> first make sure the compressor is still good by way of checking ohms (continuity) from one compressor terminal to the next and then the next one to the next and so on. Each terminal should show continuity from one to either of the other two and have a small range such as 2,3,4, some small number. No two numbers will be the same but close to each other as the totality of the numbers equals the entire motor windings range.
> 
> If that's good then check each terminal to ground. You can use the copper attached to the compressor as ground, just scrape the meter lead on the copper a few times. If there is continuity from any or all terminals to ground the compressor is shot. If not, proceed with a new wiring harness. Once that is all taken care of have a contractor come and check refrigerant charge and charge as needed (if not too much needed, that is).
> 
> ...


Absolutely concur... and also check to make sure your breaker box breaker marked AC is rated correctly and capable of tripping. There are worse places to have a fire then a compressor.


----------



## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

diyourselfer said:


> .....or could something else be the cause of the melting?


Doc has great suggestions on getting your condenser in order and making sure that your compressor amps are where they should be. But your lugs keep melting off because they are not the proper ones and are probably too loose. Loose connections make heat, and plenty of it.

Follow the wires back and you will see that they are most likely in good shape and not melted. If there was a huge amp draw the entire length of wire would be melted.

When you install the kit, the pins on the compressor needs to be worked with emory cloth and/or wire bushed to the point that they are *shiny clean* or you will introduce heat in the connection again. Hopefully, the kit has instructions about this.


----------

