# diy gutters



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

is there a way to make diy gutters look good ? i could use a gutter on the front of my garage. but i think hiring it out could be expensive. garage is about 30' wide, so that would be 3 sections.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

The DIY gutter comes in 10' sections. And when installed looks like crap. 

Walk around your neighborhood and look at house with DIY and seamless. 

You will answer your own question. 

You might try calling up a gutter company and see if they will kick you out a 30' section for a reasonable price.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

It CAN be done. I did my whole house. Instead of using the coupling to join two pieces, I simply overlapped the pieces by about 6 inches. Then I riveted the pieces together, applied gutter sealant to the joint, and haven't had any problems of note. Is it anywhere near as nice as seamless? Well, not really, but you can save some cash. I know Menard's has a big sale on gutter sections. After the rebate, the cost of a 10' section is 98 cents!!!


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

yeah, i know, not an ideal situation. the joints are kinda ugly. but, turn lemons into lemon-aid. perhaps some corbels under the joints. and/or, make more joints, 3(or more) instead of 2 to give it some kind of symmetry


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh, i will look into a seemless. but even if reasonable, idk how i could install it by myself.


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

Very simple to sit a 30' piece, just order these first. https://www.bigrocksupply.com/store/m/3-AJC.aspx red gutter holders, vinyl coated work grrat. hang a few off your fas ia, drop the gutter in and goto town. Carry the gutter up from the middle and 30' isn't bad at all.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

In my area there are a couple companies that will "chop and drop" as its called around here. You ordered the sizes, gave them an accessory list and they come by, chop to your specs and leave them on the ground including downspouts, end caps, outlets elbows and hangers. But usually it's for a whole house rather than one gutter.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I bought mine from roofer's store and they were 20's, heavier and better paint finish. Alcoa. Joint them on the ground with rivets, and seal once installed. Stainless screws, inside bracket into 2x facia. Carried them on a ladder rack on a truck, driving slowly, but stores deliver as well.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

thanx folks.

i have been looking for them on houses around here = none to be seen. but i may just use em. then later on i can get seemless and move these to the rear.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I had ABC roofing supply make up some for a garage I built---I extended a long ladder on my roof rack and drove them to the job---


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i don't have a roof rack or bed rack, or any rack. though there are times when it would come in very handy.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Good excuse to buy something.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

You can get most of the gutter companies around here to chop and drop. 

Doing it in 10' sections is fine to, if the gutter is lapped properly it can be hard to tell it's in sections. Never use the splice plates.

Sealant goes in between the lap, and not smeared all over it....


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

You'real better off without gutters. Just slope the ground away from your foundation to divert rain water.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Actually it's cheaper just to have the gutter crew come out and do it all.


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## Paultergeist (Oct 13, 2014)

....maybe......assuming that the "gutter crew" does the installation correctly and professionally, without creating other damage to the house.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

I guess the name says it all...

Why would you automatically assume that.?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

1985gt said:


> Doing it in 10' sections is fine to, if the gutter is lapped properly it can be hard to tell it's in sections. Never use the splice plates.
> 
> Sealant goes in between the lap, and not smeared all over it....


interesting, thanx. :vs_cool:



Davejss said:


> You'real better off without gutters. Just slope the ground away from your foundation to divert rain water.


this would for over the garage front. the eve's are shallow, maybe 8" or so.
the drive is sloped. but the rain coming of the roof coats ya when unlocking the door, or the overhead is open it coats the trucks. 



ron45 said:


> Actually it's cheaper just to have the gutter crew come out and do it all.


menards has gutters for $1 per 10', plus the end pieces and hangers. say $30 altogether . i highly doubt i could get an estimate for that much.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

ron45 said:


> Actually it's cheaper just to have the gutter crew come out and do it all.




Lets break this down since you seem to know everything...

Menards prices:

5" K $4.98
5" Miters $8.47
Hangers $1.58
3x4 Downspout $12.56
Elbows $3.54
Downspout bands $1.08
Caulking $ 5.00
So figure a 50x50 house, hip roof single story. 

21 Pcs Gutter $104.58
4 Miters $33.88
150 Hangers $150.00
3 Tubes of caulking $15.00
8 PCS Downspout $100.48
12 Elbows $42.48



Total $2.23 a LF.

So unless you figure in your own time as most home owners do not, it is not cheaper to call a gutter guy. Plus I'm pretty sure if a home owner calls our gutter guy they will not be quoted $3.50 a foot.

I understand you are trying to help but what you said about it being cheaper is just misinformation. If the OP wants to hang his own gutters who cares, Chop and drop is a good way, and if done right 10' sections isn't bad either, plus much more manageable for one person. All of the gutters we build in house are 10' and we have done 1,000's of feet. They have lasted far longer even with caulking in the seams then some of the crap these seamless guys roll out.




Fix'n it said:


> menards has gutters for $1 per 10', plus the end pieces and hangers. say $30 altogether . i highly doubt i could get an estimate for that much.


Yeah there is no way. :smile:


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Yep... Let's add that up.....
I believe it was suggested 30 feet.

Using the Menards site.

http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/gutters/c-5811.htm

Gutter itself.
3 ten foot sections 3 x 4.98 = 14.94

Slip joint 3 x 5.58 = 16.74

Gutter drop 1 x 8.98 = 8.98

End caps 2 x 2.08 = 4.16

Hangers @ 16" 22 x 1.99 = 43.78

Down spout 1 x 12.98 = 12.98

Straps 2 x 1.65 = 3.30

Elbows 3 x 3.99 = 11.97

Sealer 1 x 2.99 = 2.99 


And like you said customers don't add things in like.
Will they need any new tools
Gas 
their time
MAYBE MISTAKES that would cost them.
Do they have a vehicle to carry the sections

Total $119.84 / 30' feet = $4.00 LF.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Menards has 10' sections on sale right now for .99

So 3.60 a foot.

Either way the point is it's highly unlikely to find a seamless guy who is going to come out and install 30' of gutter for less then $4 a foot.

If people figured in their time on DIY projects a contractor almost always wins on price. If they want to install a gutter let them install a gutter, guide them how to do it not just say "hire a contractor". It's a gutter something to simply keep water from dripping down on them, they aren't placing an Ibeam in the house or something...


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## Paultergeist (Oct 13, 2014)

Ummmm.......not to be too blunt, but....

Isn't this a *DIY*-oriented forum? (Hence the name "diychatroom").

It seems a bit odd to me that there are posts advocating so strongly for hiring professionals, while arguing against a DIY approach.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

certainly as DIY projects go hanging some gutter isn't overly hard.
Its not hard to make a water tight splice that will last for years. 
The only issue is the cosmetics of a couple splices in a 30 foot run. Or whether he can get a chop and drop 30 footer. If he does that he should get a couple helpers so as an amateur he doesn't get a twist and crimp in that 30 footer before it gets hung.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Paultergeist said:


> Ummmm.......not to be too blunt, but....
> 
> Isn't this a *DIY*-oriented forum? (Hence the name "diychatroom").
> 
> It seems a bit odd to me that there are posts advocating so strongly for hiring professionals, while arguing against a DIY approach.


100% agree, now there are some projects that probably shouldn't be DIY, hanging a gutter isn't not one of those. 

TBH I will hire mine out when the time comes, not because I can't do it, I simply don't want to. :laughing:



craig11152 said:


> certainly as DIY projects go hanging some gutter isn't overly hard.
> Its not hard to make a water tight splice that will last for years.
> The only issue is the cosmetics of a couple splices in a 30 foot run. Or whether he can get a chop and drop 30 footer. If he does that he should get a couple helpers so as an amateur he doesn't get a twist and crimp in that 30 footer before it gets hung.


Exactly.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

In my area gutters run $4.00 a LF for straight runs.

I never seen a pieced together rain gutter that didn't leak or have problems.
Not to mention, well it's pieced together and looks that way regardless of who installs it.

One piece has no seams to leak.
Doesn't warp from intense direct sun light.
It's easier to install.
Takes less time to install
It's definitely more stable
It last longer.

You could do what you all refer to as chop and drop.
But the price difference between chop and drop and install is not that much.

By the time you purchase a few new tools to do the job, gas to and fro, your time not only get the products but to install it, your chance of seriously hurting yourself, You have now paid more.

I'm all for doing it yourself, but common sense says if it's cheaper and without risk of injury to have someone else do it, why not.

I don't care if you decide to do it yourself or pay to have it installed.
I simply pointed out it will cost the same if you purchase it in pieces.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

ron45 said:


> In my area gutters run $4.00 a LF for straight runs.
> 
> I never seen a pieced together rain gutter that didn't leak or have problems.
> Not to mention, well it's pieced together and looks that way regardless of who installs it.
> ...


You must have never seen the 1000's of feet of copper gutters that haven't leaked for 50 years. Or even the prefinished steel ones that will last 2+ shingle roofs, leak free and looking good. There is plenty of ways to install sections of gutters and have it barely if at all noticeable. 

While your other points are semi valid, your warping one is off. It has more to do with material thickness and how it was fastened on if it will/does warp or not. 

A .028 or .032 or whatever gutter is still the same if it's 1 piece or 100. If anything a good caulking would allow it to expand or contract if needed.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

To answer the question above.

Yes this a DIY site.
But DIY is not always the best policy.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Yes I have seen them and even installed some.
Your comparing apples to oranges.

When I worked for a modular house manufacturer
I worked the gutter truck for 2 years.
We averaged 3 houses a day.
During that time we also took on residential houses we didn't build.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Not really it's comparing gutters to gutters... just different ways to do them. 

So your saying you installed leaky gutters? 



> I never seen a pieced together rain gutter that didn't leak or have problems.
> Not to mention, well it's pieced together and looks that way regardless of who installs it.





> Yes I have seen them and even installed some.





> I worked the gutter truck for 2 years.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

That's funny dude......


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

To me, gutters not only serve a functional purpose but they are also a layer of trim around the house. 

They have to look good and seamless is the only way to do that IMO. 

To each their own I guess.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

kwikfishron said:


> To each their own I guess.


Exactly. Which is why I try to avoid the "why are you doing this?" question. :vs_coffee:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Gymschu said:


> It CAN be done. I did my whole house. Instead of using the coupling to join two pieces, I simply overlapped the pieces by about 6 inches. Then I riveted the pieces together, applied gutter sealant to the joint, and haven't had any problems of note. Is it anywhere near as nice as seamless? Well, not really, but you can save some cash. I know Menard's has a big sale on gutter sections. After the rebate, the cost of a 10' section is 98 cents!!!


Gym

can i get some pics ? i bought 3 sections, 15 hangers, 2 corners and 2 ends.
i already have down spouts. i need to prime and paint before installing


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

If it quits raining maybe I can get some pics of my work.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

wait'n for those pics :smile:

i have the priming and painting done. 

but i now have another issue, perhaps. the garage is 30' wide. but i didn't take into account the overhang :vs_worry:. so, 3 10' sections, and 2 corners. the 2 corners have about 4". i would like to have the DS's on the side of the building.
but unless another idea is discovered, like using the connector pieces, i may not be able to do this.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> wait'n for those pics :smile:
> 
> i have the priming and painting done.
> 
> .


still wait'n on those pics :smile:


well, a "snowball effect" took hold of me. not only did i paint the facia, for the gutters. i kept on going and painted the whole garage :vs_karate:.
sept for the doors, idk just how i want them yet.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Can you post a picture and explain how you want it to run. 
Most of time you don't need a corner to place the downspouts on the side, just a side elbows with the hole in the right place.


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## Paultergeist (Oct 13, 2014)

ron45 said:


> Yes I have seen them and even installed some.


So....are you saying that you* have* installed sectional gutters?


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## Paultergeist (Oct 13, 2014)

ron45 said:


> Your comparing apples to oranges.


I thought we were comparing sectional (seamed) rain-gutters against cut-to-length rain-gutters......


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ron45 said:


> Can you post a picture and explain how you want it to run.
> 
> 
> Most of time you don't need a corner to place the downspouts on the side, just a side elbows with the hole in the right place.


indeed, i will. was going to today. but i had to stop at menards and get the ceiling fan i wanted before it sold out, was on sale. by the time i got home, it was dark out. 

yes, i know. but i was thinking the corner piece would make the eve's look wider. as was said, gutters can also be a decorative feature.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

I can't tell you how it's going to look, only you know what you like.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

what the gutters are going on.

wish i could reliably change the color of the shingles without replacing them.
oh well.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

I think it looks good.
What color gutters did you get.?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

the standard brown ones. i know they won't match exactly, but they should be ok. if not, i'l paint em.


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## scha0786 (Oct 8, 2015)

I did my whole house myself. started with getting quotes from companys and looking at menards.

stumbled upon this company in my area

http://www.seamlessgutterdelivery.com/

Paid them cash and they dropped the price even more. It is the heavy contractor grade coils, super thick. PS - I had a contractor come out recently and commented on the gutter installation, he asked who did it and replied, "me". he was impressed and asked if I needed a job, lol.

Anywas for the DIY'er Ill give you pointers that made the job turn out awesome:

-first step is to plan where you want the outlets to discharge to, look at the lay of the land and have the water go with it, dont try and fight it. If your house is a walk out bring all water to shed away and not just where it is convienent to install a downspout. This is the fun part because you get to pick and play with different ideas. Also if you have an upper dormer, don't just dump onto the lower roof as it will wreck the shingles down the road, better to pipe to lower gutter or all the way to the ground.
-Find a company that will do a cut and drop for cash, they bring out the truck and you tell them the measurements (Go an extra 1' to ensure you have enough)
-Go with all 3" openings (most of all debris will wash out the ends and 3" can handle wicked downpours no problem)
-I used the 5" type K style, if you have very large sections of roof I would step up to a 6"
-use Sampson brackets, the stuff in menards and almost all contractors put on it garbage and will fail in due time.
-buy enough Sampson brackets to support every 2', and install with pole barn screws from menards (you can literally hang on the gutter like griswold! I tried it, lol)
-dont get the miter boxes, just go with the miter seam and use self tapers to install. The miter box has 2 extra seams that will look like crap.
-Cut gutter to length with a grinder and a cut off wheel, tried other stuff and took too long
-lay out in yard, install outlet, end caps, seal with gutter glue and drop in hangers
-snap line, start high end tight to drip edge and drop down towards outlet (I made my ends flush with the bottom of the fascia and this great of a slope washes out all debris with minimal cleaning.
-have a hand help hold up and start screwing in pole barn screws while lining up top portion with snapped line
-Then install the gutter apron, just slip under first layer of shingle but ABOVE THE ICE AND WATER, NO SCREWS OR NAILS unless you want leaks. The gutter apron is code for installation below drip edge. Custom order the heavy duty gutter apron from the cut and chop outfit or order from menards (come in 10' lengths).
-Then it is a matter of hanging the down spouts, pretty simple just make sure the joints flow into the next.
-10' away from house and make sure you pre plan where you want your water to shed from before starting the project. 10' will keep you home nice and dry in the monsoons that are to come. 
-Get the touch up paint too and you'll scratch and nick here and there, comes in aerosal can.

http://www.gutterhangers.com/homeowner.html

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...n/p-2031217-c-5817.htm?tid=-84839071079183874

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...p-1692667-c-12967.htm?tid=8647219526048464903

once done, enjoy watching it rain and water flying out of those nice new gutters as you sick back and sip some coffee knowing that you just saved about $1000 to put into your next project, lol
-


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## scha0786 (Oct 8, 2015)

lol, I just saw the picture above on what your installing the gutters.

super easy, you can for sure do this yourself!! I had to put up scaffold for my back portion, you just need a 6 foot ladder.

you can hang them by yourself, just temporarily install a screw on the other end to set on and you'll be fine (this is how I did my mother in laws house).

I would have two outlets for that garage in the back. 5" K style is all you need with 3" outlets.

Also, they can custom match any color you want, or just quick throw on some new fascia before you install the gutters.

whatever you decide, don't go with the crap from menards and home depot, trust me you will be dissapointed on how it turns out.

I can't stress how strong those sampson brackets


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i tried to fit them today. they are 4" short. so i have to figure up plan B. 
i would like to see good installed pics. but i guess that isn;t going to happen.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Fix'n it said:


> i would like to see good installed pics. but i guess that isn;t going to happen.


There's all kinds on videos and pics available, a simple Google search is all it takes.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

kwikfishron said:


> There's all kinds on videos and pics available, a simple Google search is all it takes.


i did, nearly nothing. at least with the words i used.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Did you use any of these.?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ron45 said:


> Did you use any of these.?


no. they didn't fit my plan.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Buy one more piece, put the two full 10' pieces centered then fill the other sides in with the other two pieces they would be about 5'2" or so? Or you could cut them all down so they were equal lengths.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

I'm sorry, I kinda meant it as an idea.
It could make up the difference in the length.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

1985gt said:


> Buy one more piece, put the two full 10' pieces centered then fill the other sides in with the other two pieces they would be about 5'2" or so? Or you could cut them all down so they were equal lengths.


yes, i have been thinking along those lines.



ron45 said:


> I'm sorry, I kinda meant it as an idea.
> It could make up the difference in the length.


no need to be sorry there ron. ideas are just what i am asking for. but i want the DS's to be on the sides, not the front.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

UPDATE

i was clearing out the garage, and my gutters were in the way. so i decided to give it a shot hanging then. i put it off thinking it was going to be a pita.
but it was pretty easy. 

the front has 3 sections, 16' in the middle and 2 10' cut down.
i overlapped the joints. it doesn't look the greatest, but not terrible either.
as the gutters are not made to join like this, but the corners are and fit well.

and just the look of having gutter up makes the garage look much better.

you can't see the joints in these pics. i will get a close up, shortly.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

now, if only i could change the shingle color.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh. and i am really suprised at how much the door header has saged.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ok, here is the joint, the other is not quite as bad.
i could put a screw, but then i would see the screw.
i am wondering if i put some sealer or whatever and clamp it ...


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

pop rivets work well and are not as noticeable as screws but they certainly are visible. I figure once the splice is there then aesthetics is sort of off the table.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Fix'n it said:


> ok, here is the joint, the other is not quite as bad.
> i could put a screw, but then i would see the screw.
> i am wondering if i put some sealer or whatever and clamp it ...


Use pop rivets. 4 at each joint, 2 front, 2 back. You can get them in brown.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Spectra-100-Pack-1-8-in-Cocca-Brown-Aluminum-Rivets/50092656


https://www.amazon.com/AB4-4AV-BR-M...=1471182387&sr=8-11&keywords=brown+pop+rivets


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

craig11152 said:


> . I figure once the splice is there then aesthetics is sort of off the table.


not at all. as you can see, i do want my place looking nice. 
note that i said "nice", and not "perfect". if "perfect" costs 5x more, i will take "nice". 

for now i am just going to let it ride.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Here is 1 of my joints using pop rivets. I overlap the joint about 10 inches. You have to trim the front edge of the inside piece slightly. Use a good quality caulk between the 2 pieces, I used white butyl rubber. 








Also, I never use the pre-made down spout take offs. Just cut in a down spout take off using sealant and pop rivets.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ok, looks like a rivet will be less visable. i will look into it. 
i did trim the top edge off, about 1"ish before joining. i am sure there is a better way, but i have yet to see it.


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