# DIY Concrete Manhole - How do I add a handle to it



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1, I would not go to all the work to make my own, any company that makes septic tanks has square covers in stock with handles for about $20.00.
If I made my own I might use a simple U bolt.
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200663236_200663236


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> How do I add some kind of handle to the top so I can just use the handle whenever I need to move it?


Ayuh,..... Ya bend a loop in a piece of rebar, 'n tie it into the rest of the reinforcement,...

'n ya already got one thread goin' about yer cover,....
No reason to start another,....
Better to keep all the info together in one thread,....


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I like the rebar loop idea.

I was complicating it while reading the other responses.

I was thinking about a handicap stall grab handle, wired into the grid, but a rebar loop is cheaper, and probably just part of your remains after fashioning the actual support framework..

And septic tank makers have replacement lids on hand, because sometimes a tank cleaner will break a customers lid, and need to replace it.



ED


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

There is a reason why they are usually round, round ones never fall in the hole.
A 1/4 stainless rod bent so a loop stick up tied to rebar or not would work.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How many are you making?


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> How many are you making?


Just one.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I made on once and imbedded 1/2 pipe T into it with the thread even with the top. this kept it flat so no one tripped etc. Then I had a T handle that I screwed into the hole to lift the lid.

It ended up looking very similar to this.


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

joed said:


> I made on once and imbedded 1/2 pipe T into it with the thread even with the top. this kept it flat so no one tripped etc. Then I had a T handle that I screwed into the hole to lift the lid.
> 
> It ended up looking very similar to this.
> 
> View attachment 497962


Nice! Maybe I could do something with this?
Frame a piece of wood in the middle of the concrete so you don't see the wood, but have the top of this *"1/2 in. Black Malleable Iron FPT Floor Flange"* be flush with the surface of the concrete like in your image, then just buy a 1/2 piece of pipe and screw it in when I want to lift it. Brilliant idea of yours!!! Thanks!!!

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Global-1-2-in-Black-Malleable-Iron-90-degree-FPT-x-FPT-Elbow-520-003HN/100184660?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-205955653-_-100184660-_-N
or this..
https://www.homedepot.com/p/VPC-1-2-in-Black-Malleable-Iron-FPT-Floor-Flange-16-521-603/205955653


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

No need for the wood. just have enough anchors through the floor flange holes and mount direct into the concrete when poured. The wood will rot out.

Screw a pipe into the hole when pouring the concrete to keep the threads clear.


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

joed said:


> No need for the wood. just have enough anchors through the floor flange holes and mount direct into the concrete when poured. The wood will rot out.
> 
> Screw a pipe into the hole when pouring the concrete to keep the threads clear.


Great idea to screw in the pipe while the concrete is wet so that the threads don't get anything on it. 

When you say that I should "anchor it through the floor flange holes", I will have to drill some holes into the concrete to mount it?

If you are saying I should mount it when the cement is wet, are you saying to use screws into the holes of the flange? What will the screws go into, if the cement is wet?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You use bolts with big washers sandwiched between double nuts on the end. Insert this assembly into each mounting hole of the flange, bolts hanging loose downward.

Then press this whole thing into the wet concrete, working it down flush with the top, and making sure that concrete fills the voids under the flange, trowel it all even, and remove the nipple from the flange after it dries a bunch.



ED


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

bolts or machine screws into the wet concrete while concrete is wet will hold better than drilling afterwards.


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

de-nagorg said:


> You use bolts with big washers sandwiched between double nuts on the end. Insert this assembly into each mounting hole of the flange, bolts hanging loose downward.
> 
> Then press this whole thing into the wet concrete, working it down flush with the top, and making sure that concrete fills the voids under the flange, trowel it all even, and remove the nipple from the flange after it dries a bunch.
> 
> ...


Will do. Thanks again. When you say "remove the nipple from the flange" after dries a bunch, what do you mean by nipple? Are you referring to the 1/2 bar that I will use to screw into the flange everytime I want to lift the cement block?


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Pipe nipple


https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-ni...zl5AQ7kdurxi3dvWBPqa-SJNl-RiuIpoaAvJhEALw_wcB


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

Canarywood1 said:


> Pipe nipple
> 
> 
> https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-ni...zl5AQ7kdurxi3dvWBPqa-SJNl-RiuIpoaAvJhEALw_wcB


Thanks! I thought I would only have to purchase two items.

1. The 1/2 inch flange.
2. The 1/2 inch pipe that will go into the flange.

What is the function of the nipple? To screw into the flange so that no cement gets on the flange threads?


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

HTFreak said:


> Thanks! I thought I would only have to purchase two items.
> 
> 1. The 1/2 inch flange.
> 2. The 1/2 inch pipe that will go into the flange.
> ...


I think I get it. I need to install the nipple because the top of the 1/2" flange will not be flush with the surface? Therefore when I take the nipple out, the flange will be recessed into the cement? ie the 1/2 flange will not be flush with the surface of the cement?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Here is a very rough diagram of what I would be doing to embed the flange into the concrete. Only a flange and pipe to keep the treads clear and use later for removal and some bolts or machine screws for extra anchor strength are needed.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Two of these will do it. I suspect this thing is going to be so heavy it will need a pipe slipped through the 2 rings for two big men to lift it.


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

joed said:


> Here is a very rough diagram of what I would be doing to embed the flange into the concrete. Only a flange and pipe to keep the treads clear and use later for removal and some bolts or machine screws for extra anchor strength are needed.
> 
> View attachment 498074


Thanks but where does the nipple fit into this layout drawing?


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## HTFreak (Mar 24, 2014)

joed said:


> Here is a very rough diagram of what I would be doing to embed the flange into the concrete. Only a flange and pipe to keep the treads clear and use later for removal and some bolts or machine screws for extra anchor strength are needed.
> 
> View attachment 498074


I see your bolts in the diagram do not go all the way to the bottom surface.
How will the flange and bolts stay buoyed so that the flange stays on the surface?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

The bolts are embedded into the concrete just like rebar or the anchor bolts you would put into a foundation to hold the walls. The concrete should be stiff enough to hold the flange. Or you just add some support to the pipe you have in the hole to protect the threads.

No nipple needed except if you want to use it to protect the threads.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

HTFreak said:


> Will do. Thanks again. When you say "remove the nipple from the flange" after dries a bunch, what do you mean by nipple? Are you referring to the 1/2 bar that I will use to screw into the flange everytime I want to lift the cement block?


Yes I mean the bar that you are going to use to " lift the lid."

I would get 1 - 6 inch long 1/2 inch pipe nipple, 1 -1/2 inch pipe T, 2 -4 inch long 1/2 inch pipe Ts, and 2 -1/2 inch pipe caps.

Screw the 6 inch nipple into the center hole of the T, screw the 2 4 inch nipples in the 2 end holes, screw the 2 pipe caps on the other end of the 4 inch Ts.

This makes a T handle with hand protection on the 4 inch nipple ends. 

Open threads are sharp, and will slice chunks out of your hands.


ED


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

> This makes a T handle with hand protection on the 4 inch nipple ends.
> 
> Open threads are sharp, and will slice chunks out of your hands.


You could get one 8 inch pipe and saw it in half and grind the ends smooth/safe.


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