# table saw & stand



## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

A DeWalt contractor saw with a Bosch gravity rise stand would be my recommendation. The DeWalt has a rack and pinion fence that, in my opinion, should be standard on all saws. It's power is, well, as good as any saw that's portable. 

The Bosch stand I haven't used but it comes highly recommended.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thank you Mort - tstex


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

mort is right.. those two saws are pretty much the models most contractors go with both are extremely reliable and have their own plus or minus's . the bosch gravity rise stand has pretty much given birth to many copy cats both for table saws and mitre saws.. both companies offer both a full size and a compact model of their saws and bosch even now offers model with flesh detecting technology


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Mort said:


> The DeWalt has a rack and pinion fence that, in my opinion, should be standard


I've been using that rack and pinion fence for 15+ years now and can't believe that Dewalt is the only saw manufacture using it.

I got 12 years out of my first Dewalt TS and that was (almost) used daily. When it was time to replace I didn't even consider a different brand because no one else has a R&P fence.

For the most part Dewalt tools are junk compared to what they used to be with few exceptions two of which are their table saws and the slider miters (planer too).


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> For the most part Dewalt tools are junk compared to what they used to be with few exceptions two of which are their table saws and the slider miters (planer too).



I don't know if I'd agree with that. I have a scroll saw and small router of theirs that is magnificent, along with a few others. If I were going for a new cordless platform I'd give them a look too.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

the dewalt table saw is definitely a leader, the rack and pinion is a very nice feature however when it gets knocked out of a alignment its a total p.i.t.a to recalibrate in comparison to the much simpler design bosch has

as for the rest of dewalts tools some of their stuff is good but quite a bit of their gear is problematic.. they have lacked behind quite a bit in battery tech for sometime, they were one of the last companies to put out lithium ion tech.. though they now have the new flex volt 60v batteries what they havent been telling people is that they have been getting quite a few back on warrenty already .. they have nearly 5x as many sodder points compared to the milwauke m18 9 amp high demand battery not to mention dewalt doesnt have overload protection on the batteries which is what protects them from overheating and dying


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

TesTex.... You have a great understanding and specific requirements....

I can't guess at your specific situation and budget and do not mean to impose a subjctive judgement, but sort of similr situation, have you thought of just two saws.

Maybe a high end Delta at one location, and a Dewalt contractor at the otrher.

Maybe it does not work for you, but for years I tried to F__k with one saw, and the simple solution was two.

Best


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

I'll have to agree with Mort, the DeWalt 20 inch scroll saw is top of the line, and i have their Model 621 router and with out a doubt the finest plunge router ever built, bar none so far.


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## diversity210 (May 1, 2016)

I have own the ridgid portable table saw and it works great. Very portable. I have also used the bosch table saw and its a little better than the ridgid as far as precision, but its more expensive and the table itself is smaller.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks guys, great information and feedback - the kind of information you are providing is nothing you would hear from a store rep or read in the manufacturers literature.

Re the Dewalt R&P fence needing to be re-calibrated, 
-how often does that happen?
-what are the main causes of it coming out of alignment?
-what is the process to realign and how long does it take?
-do any saws w the R&P fence have a tendency to come out of alignment as well?

If this is a once every 5 yrs and you need to drop it for it to be out of alignment, then I can live w that. But if it can happen easily on set-up and take-down, that's another whole story.

I'm going to pull the trigger on a purchase next weekend, so I would appreciate your final feedback. I will post back on what I get and how it works upon the first usage. 

Again, I really appreciate it - tstex


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

As far as the fence, the one I use on occasion belongs to my BIL, so I haven't had to mess with it. He uses it professionally all the time and I've never heard him say a bad word about it. The fence, for him, was the major selling point.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Mort


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## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

I've got the Bosch 4100-09 with gravity rise stand. As a weekender DIY woodworker, I've found it great to make the dozen or so projects I've done over the past few years. Since I keep it in garage and roll it out to driveway to cut, ease of getting it around was a key need.

It was either this one or the DeWalt equivalent. I think either one, with a good stand, is probably just fine. Now, if I could afford it, I'd go for either the new Bosch Rexx or the Sawstop. Both that the "don't cut your fingers off" technology. And yeah, Sawstop has a lawsuit going on with Bosch. Either way, both those saws have the same general capabilities.

For my Bosch 4100, everything was perfectly aligned out the box. And so far I haven't had to adjust a thing. The only problem I've ever had with it is the blade height adjustment got sticky. This was probably because in three years I never lubricated the gears. Which is really bad maintenance. Some blaster brake penetrant solved that and now I'll keep it up better. I also do wax the top on occasion.

I've got zero clearance inserts for typical blades and one for my dado blade. Personally, I think besides basic cutting, the fence is one of the most important aspects of any such piece of gear. The whole point of this type of unit is confidently straight rips. Creative use of miter gauge, cross cut sleds, other jigs are useful. But it's that straight line that's really key for all things.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

I though I'd add my comment on the Bosch GTS1031 - Bosch's compact/portable saw. The saw worked very well out of the box and was true in every dimension. However, I came up with a pretty horrible problem this summer. It sat in my garage, unused, about 3 months as my attention was on other things - I'm a homeowner/hobbiest/DIY, not a pro. When I took the saw back out to use it again, I could not raise the blade. It took complete disassembly of the saw to get to the solution - one of the guide-rods that the motor rides up and down had rusted solid. I had to put it in a vise and wack it with a hammer to get it apart, sand it, and oil it to get it going again.

I was disappointed that such a thing happened when it sits on a shelf, dry, in my garage. If it was tossed in the back of a truck, exposed to rain, and jobsite conditions, I could maybe understand it. I'm not sure how to get around it, as if I coat it with grease/oil to keep it from rusting, it's just going to gunk-up with sawdust and cause problems.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

thanks for your feedback guys...

I went to home depot to see if I could view the DEWALT DWE7491RS 10-Inch Jobsite Table Saw and I saw the Delta 10" Model 36-6022 w stand. I've enclosed a general spec link [first one] and Delta's announcement of the 6000 Series 6022. The Delta 10" w stand is $569 while the Delta 10" w Stand is $299 now, but $229 on Black Friday sale. That's a huge difference. Both have 15AMP's but the Delta is 5000RPM's while the Delta is 4600RPM's. What's the catch here?

http://www.deltamachinery.com/products/new-6000-series-portable-table-saw/item/36-6022

Here's a link from Delta on their new 36-6022 10" TableSaw. HD lists it now for $299. but the B-Friday Promo has it for $229. That seems really low compared to the Dewalt 

http://www.newson6.com/story/337607...-table-saw-arrives-just-in-time-for-christmas

Let me know what you guys think? Thanks, tstex


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## Crazyjake8493 (Sep 26, 2014)

diversity210 said:


> I have own the ridgid portable table saw and it works great. Very portable. I have also used the bosch table saw and its a little better than the ridgid as far as precision, but its more expensive and the table itself is smaller.


I'm glad to hear you like the Ridgid, I just ordered their compact table saw (no stand) for $199. I plan on using some wood sawhorses and making an 8ft outfeed table I can drop the saw into. My dad praises their lifetime warranty so I thought I'd give them a shot.

The portable model with the stand will be $299 on Black Friday for anyone looking.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Crazyjake8493 said:


> I'm glad to hear you like the Ridgid, I just ordered their compact table saw (no stand) for $199. I plan on using some wood sawhorses and making an 8ft outfeed table I can drop the saw into. My dad praises their lifetime warranty so I thought I'd give them a shot.
> 
> The portable model with the stand will be $299 on Black Friday for anyone looking.


 Thanks Jake - do you have a model # on the Rigid w Stand?

Happy Thanksgiving,
tom


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## Crazyjake8493 (Sep 26, 2014)

tstex said:


> Thanks Jake - do you have a model # on the Rigid w Stand?


It's the R4513. According to Home Depot's website, it's already down to $299.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-15-Amp-10-in-Heavy-Duty-Portable-Table-Saw-with-Stand-R4513/100090444


I'm almost kicking myself for not getting this one instead of the compact model for $199. Most of my wood projects are rather small though so hopefully the smaller one will suffice for me.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thank you Jake - Happy Thanksgiving


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Just picked up that Ridgid, nice tool for $299.00 and the fence locks down front and rear, just like a Biesemeyer.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Canarywood1 said:


> Just picked up that Ridgid, nice tool for $299.00 and the fence locks down front and rear, just like a Biesemeyer.


 Thanks Canary.

Is the fence a Rack & Pinion type?


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

tstex said:


> Thanks Canary.
> 
> Is the fence a Rack & Pinion type?




No, the Biesemeyer type isn't rack and pinion. Only the DeWalt has the rack and pinion.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tstex said:


> Thanks Canary.
> 
> Is the fence a Rack & Pinion type?



Got it up and running today, everythings spot on right out of the box, nice on board storage for the fence, can't beat it for the money.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Canarywood1 said:


> Got it up and running today, everythings spot on right out of the box, nice on board storage for the fence, can't beat it for the money.


 Good deal - thanks Canary.

Read a bunch of reviews, which I only pay attn. to the 1 & 2 stars to determine if anything is a show-stopper. The majority were 5's.

How is the overall construction and the material? Does it have a lot of plastic?

Thanks and good luck w your new saw,
tstex
​


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tstex said:


> Good deal - thanks Canary.
> 
> Read a bunch of reviews, which I only pay attn. to the 1 & 2 stars to determine if anything is a show-stopper. The majority were 5's.
> 
> ...




Overall construction is good, read one guy complaining about the tubing being light weight and crushing when he tightens the nuts, but he's probably one that 
doesn't know when to quit, has spacers to allow folding action, so shouldn't be too tight to begin with, i didn't have any problems, all nuts are lock nuts.

No more plastic than anything else out there, rip fence automatically aligns, and has extremely smooth operation, like the riving knife, i'd do it again in a heartbeat.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Canarywood1 said:


> Just picked up that Ridgid, nice tool for $299.00 and the fence locks down front and rear, just like a Biesemeyer.



I have been using their earlier version of the same model for maybe 5 yrs now. Still a work horse and gets used frequently. The fence smoothness and locking is what sold me on it originally.

Only thing I have broke on it (twice now) and it is my own fault is the vac attachment stub out. A vac line can attach at the rear of the saw. When pushing stock thru and letting it fall the boards can wack the vac line cracking and breaking the stub out. Not really a complaint, just a lesson from experience. A helper or support stand solves the problem.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Good deal...I'm going up tomorrow early after church to see if I can look one over and get the feel - for $299, that's hard to beat...Santa may visit my house early 

Thanks again for your feedback guys..


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## Crazyjake8493 (Sep 26, 2014)

I wish I had bought the $299 version with the stand and picked it up. I ordered the $199 compact model and wanted it shipped to the store instead of my house. It's been over a week and no shipping updates and it still isn't at the store.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

$299 sounds like a great price, I am thinking I paid close to 5 bills


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

******UPDATE******

Hey guys, I might be over reviewing this, but it seems that each product & manufacturer has their +'s $ -'s. I was really high on the Dewalt DWE7491RS, but have seen many reviews on the table not being even at the throat-plate. Other products have a hard time locking down the fence at short cuts or when extended for 24"+ rips, or the Mitre gauge is not good, lack of being able to make accurate cuts, or too many plastic parts. Some stands are not secure and the height of stand is not adequate, motor bearings burning-out, warranties are good but it takes 2-3 weeks to possibly get back, etc.

My first and foremost request is at least a quality and durable product, that the main components work well: table level and coated enough that wood moves easy, blade is 90 degrees to table and fence, fence does not move when ripping, mitre gauge works and is not [cheap] plastic and stand is firm and keeps saw and material in place. If anyone has a portable that does all this, then pls send me your make/model, or if not, what are its weaknesses and are they show-stoppers or reasonable workarounds?

Again, thanks for all your feedback, it is greatly appreciated.

Regards,
tstex


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> I was really high on the Dewalt DWE7491RS, but have seen many reviews on the table not being even at the throat-plate.


There is an adjustment screw on the throat plate.
Comments like that in reviews come from people that don't read instructions and/or people that expect a table saw to be perfect out of the box.

You should expect to check the fit/alignment of everything on the saw. Whether it was perfect going into the box isn't the question. Things can move during transport.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Oso, Thanks for your follow-up. I hope this clarification will help both you and SeniorSiz...

The warped table has nothing to do w the actual throat plate itself. I am not being condescending, but both myself and many of the users that made the comments are quite aware of the 4 screws that can adjust the actual throat plate itself. What was warped, even when the throat plate was removed, was the part of the table that meets the throat plate, on both sides. 

The users took both levels and squares and ran them across the center of the table at the throat plate and the metal table slightly sinks in right before the throat plate. Thus, no matter how you adjusted the 4 screws, the table still dipped in 1/16" to 3/32" for various buyers. I took comments from 5 different websites from big box stores to professional tool review magazines and even from the Dewalt website. and From those, I obtained about 20-24 comments from users that were from the more refined wood-workers. These were not folks ripping plywood or OSB for decking or the like. Those type of users main complaints were the fence moving and thus didn't allow straight rips, which was from a variety of models.

I was mainly looking at the Dewalt DWE7491RS [$499-$569], Rigid R4513 [$399-$299], Delta 36-6022 [$299-$229], Bosch *Model # *4100-09, [$599-$569]. I then looked a few table saws w out stands by the above manufacturers and various portable stands that made good reviews.

Finally, I called DeWalt customer support early this morning and spoke to Ashley. I gave her all the information on the DWE7491RS and she said they would email me back. I told them I would provide all the comments and provide the links from each website that I C&P the comments. I have not herd back as of late today. 

Lastly, All saws were 10" blades, 15amps, RPM's 3850-5000, portable w stands and warranties from 1 yr to lifetime.

Thanks again,
tstex


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

I plan on buying the Delta 36-6022 tonight for the $229 price. Been looking for a while and my upcoming projects require me to look a little harder lol. I'll let you know how it goes as soon as I unbox it and get it put together.


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

Soooooo I'm convinced now that my visiting in-laws are psychic. For an early Christmas present, I came home last night to a big box in my garage with a sheet over it. Pulled the sheet away to see....a Rigid R4513! Not the one I was thinking of getting but as a gift...holy crap yes!! First thing, lifetime warranty which is why my dad in law got it over the Delta 36-6022 I was going to get that he was comparing it to (so weird that he knew!). Unboxed and assembled easy. The stand is awesome!! It has a mid range quality feel to it that you would expect from that price range. Out of the box everything was square and adjusted except the throat plate which was secured for shipping and easy to make flush with the table. My only gripe so far is the attempt at using 1 dial to raise/lower blade and adjust the bevel. Seems like they shouldn't be together and wouldn't be an issue except the bevel doesn't lock out tight enough and it creeps. I found the nut to try and tighten and will play with it after work tonight. I'll keep you updated if it gets worked out or simply replaced for the Delta lol.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Perfect Sivi, thanks. There is absolutely nothing like first hand review experience from yourself and the other users out there, esp right out of the box.

Does the fence lock down strong so when you apply pressure, it does not give either at the front or back?*

When you extend to perform the largest possible rip, how does it feel? good support, med, or less?

What is the miter gauge made of? plastic/steel/both/other?*

If you put a level on the table, are there any gaps?

If you put a square onto the blade and table or table and fence, are the perfectly sq?

*With the prices their asking for these lower level t-saws, you can buy replacement *fences* and *miter-gauges* of good quality and still come out ahead, as long as there is a fundamentally good table. motor and stand that is well built.

BTW, that's a pretty cool father-in-law....take him out for a cold one, or better yet, take a nice picture of his daughter and make a picture frame for him out of the saw he bought you. Tell him that if he wants a really nice frame, a nice router w special attachments would be in order


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

I like the way you think Tstex lol. Blade was square to the table out of the box, checking it was part of the instructions in the manual and there are adjustment screws. 

I only spent a few minutes playing around with the fence and just did a quick rip before bed. It felt solid but not like the massive cabinet table saw from high school shop class. I didn't move at all and felt like it'll work great, just not that smooth seemingly perfect feeling of the likely way more expensive saw from my youth. 

Miter gauge felt like a metal bar but plastic gauge. Doesn't bother me at all since I already have a sliding compound miter saw. 

I also didn't really mess with the extending table much other than trying it out and making sure it locked up which it did nicely. 

I did notice the tape seems kind of poor quality. It's cool how it works as a belt when you extend the table but it means it's not secured very well and I can see it failing if you don't take care of it. 

I did a bunch of research today on the bevel lock and I guess Ridgid uses a crappy trunnion setup on their previous models so we'll see what happens when I try to adjust it tonight. Judging on what I've read, there's a 50/50 chance I'll be exchanging it tonight. But that could also be internet doomsayers typing away too...

I'll be home and playing around with it some more in about 4 hours or so lol.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Well either way, I hope the bevel is easy to secure and a solid fix...post back what you find.

Also, I send Dewalt an email today to follow-up w my phone call to them from early yesterday morning about the uneven table top surface of their DWE7491RS portable saw - still no answer from them. I have a confirmation # so I hope they follow-up and let me know.

tstex


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

So my dad in law and I went to the Ridgid store to check out the display models and the same model on display is the same way. That trunnion setup is just a poor example. The only tensioner is a nut on the back side of the table and the cam on the lever itself doesn't tighten anything so it's impossible to lock it out securely enough for my standards. I really like a lot of features that saw has but that bevel lock is a deal breaker. 

So we came back home with the Delta 36-6022 and in a word, wow. 

The bevel lock not only works (which is more than I can say about the Ridgid), but it works well. Can't get the blade to budge when it's locked, as it should be. The table itself feels higher quality, ran a level over it and saw no daylight, and the coating feels a lot more slippery (in a good way). The miter gauge is garbage compaired to the Ridgid's. It's smaller and feels cheap (in a bad way). The fence is good but after the Ridgid, every other fence I played with feels like garbage, it's just that good. It locks up well and the table extender works well too. The measuring tape is confusing to me and will require some reading to figure out what they're trying to do with it. It was late so the only other thing I was able to review is the stand. It works similar to all the others but compaired to the Ridgid's, it's not as stable. It will work just fine for me but the Ridgid's felt rock solid where the Delta's feels like it has a low tire if that makes sense. 

For the moment anyways, I would choose the Delta over the Ridgid even if the trunnion setup wasn't an engineering blunder. It just feels better quality and more what I expect from a tool in that price range. I'll let you know more when I check/adjust the blade and stuff and run some lumber through it. Only other thing I can think of is the blades that come with them. Ridgid comes with a 38 tooth while the Delta comes with a 28 tooth blade. Either way I was planning on getting a finish blade but thought it was worth noting.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks again Sivi - great comments.

Yes, today it seems that one really bad feature can be a show-stopper. I too have a compound Miter Saw, so the miter is not as important, but it should not be junk. I would call Delta direct and ask them if they can send you a metal slide/Miter? You can return that one and pay for an upgrade if it works well and is worth it. The same for the fence. A table saw is not worth a dime if the fence is cumbersome to use or moves or slides in any fashion. my brother suggested getting a Biesemeyer which is the best. I too would check w Delta to see if they have an upgrade.

Once you rip a 4'x8' piece of plywood, you should have good feel for the saw. I too totally agree that a much higher tooth-count is needed. All of these companies need to mark-up their saw the price of $20-25 bucks to include a good blade...it's like selling a nice suit and coming w an ugly tie, just ruins the whole thing.

Thanks again and let me know how you do? BTW, the $299 Rigid to the $229 Delta put back $70 bucks into your F-in-law's pocket...that would seem to me that 2-3 additional blades would be coming your way  Tell him you need a fine 120 tooth one for the picture frame you're going to make for his daughter. I nice router would work too. lol


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

Yeah he wouldn't let me leave without getting a roller stand and a finish blade. Went out yesterday to get some Christmas decorations and also picked up a 50t blade so I have a decent spread right now. 

After some more time with the Delta, it confirms that it's better overall than the Ridgid. Riving knife needed some adjusting and the fence needed a 1/4 turn to square it up too. Once you get a feel for the fence, it's not bad at all.

I figured out the measure tape too. Once you get the fence to the max 13 inches, then you leave it there and read off a pointer from the table as you extend it out. Seems like it would make micro adjustments more difficult and I already think I'll just use a tape from the blade to fence when I extend the table. 

Another feature I like that the Ridgid didn't have is the extension off the back of the saw. It gives you plenty of room after ripping to get material clear and coupled with the roller stand, works as if it's meant to be lol.

The stand the Delta attaches to isn't as solid as the Ridgid but while doing my test rip, I never noticed. I ended up with a perfectly square and straight cut and as nice as a 28t blade can give you.

In closing, the only thing the Ridgid has going for it in my opinion is the fence. The more I played with even the display model at the store, the Ridgid's trunnion is a joke and in need of a massive redesign. The Delta isn't perfect but nothing in that price range will be. For me, I know I'll be more than happy with the Delta at least till I get the much bigger shop of my dreams someday...

Any other questions at all, I'll do what I can to help.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks again.

My question is the fence solid on the Delta [light metal, aluminum, other] ? Or, can a Biesemeyer be a replacement? 

Does the fence lock at both sides or by one side. Once locked, does it feel solid?

Lastly, do you feel buying and subbing out the miter gauge would be worth it or not? If so, do you have a recommendation?

Thanks again,
tstex


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

The Fence locks on both front and back and is very solid once locked, It's just not as amazing feeling when sliding it around but still better than all the others I've played with save the Ridgid of course. It feels mostly metal and has some weight to it. No clue on any replacements because after 10 minutes with it, I don't feel it's needed. 

As far as miter gauge goes, it's smaller than the Ridgid's and I'll never use it anyways. I did mess with it a little more and it has nifty notches every 5 or 10 degrees. The metal on it is lighter and it feels like that's where Delta felt like skimping a little. As far as recommendations go, I'm guessing any awesome gauge that fits in the slot would work.

I should also mention I view Dewalt in a higher price range because they are, especially when you add the stand and stuff so they don't enter into any of these equations.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Sivi...The fence for ripping is most important...no good fence, no wide rips Also, locking on both sides is a good thing....

Dewalt never called me back on the issues re level tables...that's really perplexing and disappointing as well - if the table is not level, then neither the stand nor table mean anything. I also heard you cannot use a dado on the many of the Dewalts either,,,look at their reviews...the Dewalt I was looking at, DWE7491RS looked good, but a lot of issues w the table being level and sunken in places by 1/16" t0 3/32"...not good. this is the one that I wanted, but twice the price of Delta and not even a level table...that's a no go.

I'll Post back if they call - thanks again and tell your F-in-L he needs another son-in-law LOL


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

tstex said:


> Dewalt never called me back on the issues re level tables...that's really perplexing and disappointing as well


If the Dewalt was similar to this one just hope they never call you back and waste your time.

I've never seen and touched such a piece of shut in my life that belonged in a dumpster.

But I'm accustomed to saws like you are replacing and I firmly believe I'm not too bad a judge when critiquing equipment.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

I have the 745. Bought one for my son. Both have had the crap beat out of them and have performed extremely well. I ALSO have the Delta Unisaw running on 220, available to son also since he lives jus 45 min away. The portable deltas get 80% of the use and do a great job of ripping two bye whatever's, azek, clear pine, plywood, etc. we save the big one for ripping down cabinet grade plywood. Ron


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Senior, that's the exact one, it's the DWE491RS. Seems people either hated or loved it...But based on the 30 comments [of 200] some of the more tool savvy and conversant users said they could not get the blade 90 w the table due to slight depressions just outside the throat plate area. This was not a "i did not fine tune one of the 4 screws on the throat plate", but actual flaws w the table. They used sq's and levels to determine where the gaps were.

What were your main issues senior? can you pls be specific? thanks


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Ron.

If it's a portable DWE7491RS, would it inconvenience you to take off the guard, remove the throat plate and put your sq or level from back to front w the level perpendicular to the saw blade and do some checking of the table for us? Then raise the blade as high as it will go and see w the throat plate now installed [once the blade is set to 90 from the bottom] if you can get a true 90 on both sides w out adjusting her anymore? It would be appreciated.

Thank you, tstex.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

tstex said:


> Senior, that's the exact one, it's the DWE491RS. Seems people either hated or loved it...But based on the 30 comments [of 200] some of the more tool savvy and conversant users said they could not get the blade 90 w the table due to slight depressions just outside the throat plate area. This was not a "i did not fine tune one of the 4 screws on the throat plate", but actual flaws w the table. They used sq's and levels to determine where the gaps were.
> 
> What were your main issues senior? can you pls be specific? thanks


I touched it. I moved the fence. Maybe I should say, I attempted to move the fence.

But come on DeWalt, when the fence moves an inch on the operator end before any movement on the far end it's time for me to move on to look at other asian products.

I realize this saw may not have been set up, but why ship something depending on the store employees, whom don't have a clue, or the purchaser to finish the manufacturing and or set up process.

I could have said, "I touched it" and stopped but that wouldn't have been enough characters. :biggrin2:


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

quoted by senior sitz "I realize this saw may not have been set up, but why ship something depending on the store employees, whom don't have a clue, or the purchaser to finish the manufacturing and or set up process."

I'm not defending Dewalt, but a lot of the $550 and less portable table saws need to be fine-tuned. If you buy internet or big box, you pay less, but may or may not get the service. You buy from a specialty store, you pay more and most likely will get the saw fine-tuned...but, if they have a rookie working that shift, it still might need some more adjusting....

I do not mind paying more for a quality saw, but the table, fence, motor all need to be high quality...the stand can't be crxp either, but some are better than others...I'm always open for criticism [Hey, I'm married].  

AND, the blade and fence need to be 90 degrees to table on both sides and the same time...


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

tstex said:


> .
> Here's a link from Delta on their new 36-6022 10" TableSaw. HD lists it now for $299. but the B-Friday Promo has it for $229.


I was in my local Home Depot this morning and its down another 30 bucks to $199.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

I just came back from HD, and was looking at the Delta 36-6022, and if anything ever belonged in a dumpster thats it, just can't believe anyone would buy something as crappy as that even at a $199.00, but i guess if your happy with Black and Decker tools who am i to criticize, but that is strictly an entry level tool, and a poor one at that.


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## spdrac1 (Dec 2, 2016)

I'm deeply interested in this thread.

I initially found the Dewalt 7491RS on sale for $500 at Lowe's and thought it was a perfect compromise between the mobile worksite saws and stationary contractor saws, even though it's still at the top of my budget for the moment. I'm doing a home rehab and like to have the saw one whatever floor is currently under construction. In the mean time, I'll have to drag it out of the basement onto the deck to make cuts (no garage). I will be doing a mix of ripping 2xs and trim/window work.

So I get it home, put it together and start aligning things. I had read the complains about the table not being flat and I see why, this thing seems to have a very thin table-top. Mine dips down 1/16" on the far right side. This is perhaps not as bad as a dip near the blade, but wider stock still rocks back and forth on the table - not cool. It would certainly benefit from a few well placed splines in the table top casting

Other than the table top, the saw seems pretty nice. Nice metal miter, square fence, sturdy stand, etc. I'm just not comfortable dropping $500 on a table saw where the top isn't flat. Even the ****-box Ryobi at HD has a flat table (although it might not stay that way).

Am I expecting too much from a mobile saw in this price range?

The Delta 6022 caught my eye - it's $300 cheaper after all. Maybe the best strategy is to get a true jobsite saw for $200-$300 and save my $$ for a stationary saw someday.


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## myselfer (Nov 24, 2016)

I recently purchased the Delta 36-6022. It is the first table saw that I've owned, so I'll leave the more serious critique to the pros around here.

However, for $229, this thing is a bargain. Plain and simple. The folding stand is a nice feature. Very easy to fold up and move around. Another member mentioned that it has a slightly mushy feeling. It does sway slightly while the saw is being used, but manageable. About what you'd expect from this design. 

It has a steel fence which slides nicely and locks in place nicely. ALso, the 30" rip width beats the DW745, which is other compact I considered.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Canarywood1 said:


> I just came back from HD, and was looking at the Delta 36-6022, and if anything ever belonged in a dumpster thats it, just can't believe anyone would buy something as crappy as that even at a $199.00, but i guess if your happy with Black and Decker tools who am i to criticize, but that is strictly an entry level tool, and a poor one at that.


 Canary, can you pls be specific on what you did not like or found faulty?

If anyone reads thru this whole thread, you're going to find that no one saw has it all in the $200-579 price range. Therefore, what are you going to either give up or live with? I'm not spending $1200 or so for a portable, and the stationary 1970's Rockwell I have weighs at least 180lbs w solid metal table, metal stand w very sharp legs on the bottom that will peel the skin off your legs thru your jeans, and it's counterweighted on one side so it's impossible to carry w one person. 

I have no room w 4 girls in the house to store anything in garage, so a stationary saw in main home will not work. I want a portable to move from hm to ranch and vice versa, so a portable it is, but which one?

The Rigid miter cut does not lock, the dewalt table is uneven and cannot take dado throat plates, the Bosch bearings wear-out and motor is gone in 18mo's, but the zero gravity rise stand is great, the other one has a lot of plastic, etc...so, for the pro's on this site, which portable is the best w the main features that really work ??? If it cannot rip a board straight, then it's off the list. Also, the RPM's vary from 3850 - 5000 at 15amps.., also, if it cannot rip a 48" piece of plywood in half, then it should be off the list too.

I'm all ears, but if I am going to get something that has something inferior with it, I'm going to pay the least amt I can than more and still have issues.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tstex said:


> Canary, can you pls be specific on what you did not like or found faulty?
> 
> If anyone reads thru this whole thread, you're going to find that no one saw has it all in the $200-579 price range. Therefore, what are you going to either give up or live with? I'm not spending $1200 or so for a portable, and the stationary 1970's Rockwell I have weighs at least 180lbs w solid metal table, metal stand w very sharp legs on the bottom that will peel the skin off your legs thru your jeans, and it's counterweighted on one side so it's impossible to carry w one person.
> 
> ...



Too many things to list but stability of the stand when set up is the main concern it actually moves when you slide a board on it, whole thing is wobbly and under sized, if your considering this tool, i'd suggest you take a long hard look at it, and form your own opinion, as to the miter lock on the Rigdid, i can assure you it locks as well as the lock on my Unisaw.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I have never had a issue with blade bevel lock on my Rigid, how ever my saw was mfg'd several years ago. Also, I believe the lock is a simple cam-loc lever. If there is no adjustment, a flat washer would probably do the trick.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

"as to the miter lock on the Rigdid, i can assure you it locks as well as the lock on my Unisaw."

Canary, what model Rigid are you referring? The portable Rigid they have for sale, per Vivi's post has a trunnion-set up and he could not get it to stabilize. This was the current portable Rigid for sale. 

Thanks, tstex


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Yodaman said:


> I have never had a issue with blade bevel lock on my Rigid, how ever my saw was mfg'd several years ago. Also, I believe the lock is a simple cam-loc lever. If there is no adjustment, a flat washer would probably do the trick.


 Thanks Yoda - Sivi seemed pretty sure the current Rigid was not doing the job for securing the bevel..Maybe he can jump in and provide his feedback again. Also, I believe tools made in the past [used to mean 10-20 yrs ago, now it means yesterday] were built much better. It seems everything built today is done so w lower quality parts to drive costs down, thus shorter work life and built w planned obsolesce [few yrs].


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tstex said:


> "as to the miter lock on the Rigdid, i can assure you it locks as well as the lock on my Unisaw."
> 
> Canary, what model Rigid are you referring? The portable Rigid they have for sale, per Vivi's post has a trunnion-set up and he could not get it to stabilize. This was the current portable Rigid for sale.
> 
> Thanks, tstex



I have the 4513, the current model that's on sale at @299.00, and there's no trunnion on it, i don't think Sivi is to familiar with table saws, as yodaman stated the lock on the miter is adjustable, and if it needs to be tighter a washer added will do the trick, mine right out of the box was spot on everywhere, no adjustments needed anywhere.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

So this is what the current control looks like. Starting at the bottom the smaller knob with orange center is the blade raise and lower. The orange knob at the center of the hand wheel is the blade raise/lower lock. The hand wheel when pushed in will engage the pinion gear and swivel the blade. The lever above it is your bevel lock. The pinion mechanism will overpower the the lever lock if you try but the lock is sufficient to hold the blade axis when cutting. Unless one side off your blade is toast there really are no lateral forces to move it in either direction.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Yodaman said:


> So this is what the current control looks like. Starting at the bottom the smaller knob with orange center is the blade raise and lower. The orange knob at the center of the hand wheel is the blade raise/lower lock. The hand wheel when pushed in will engage the pinion gear and swivel the blade. The lever above it is your bevel lock. The pinion mechanism will overpower the the lever lock if you try but the lock is sufficient to hold the blade axis when cutting. Unless one side off your blade is toast there really are no lateral forces to move it in either direction.


Thank you very much Yoda - appreciate the pic and comments.

Can you pls clarify this statement for me: 

"The pinion mechanism will overpower the the lever lock if you try but the lock is sufficient to hold the blade axis when cutting." 

I'm not sure what you mean by trying to over power the pinion mechanism lock? 

So, if you want to move the blade up & down, you turn the main handle. if you want to cut at 25 degrees, you push in the handle, crank it, then flip the beve lock above to keep the blade in the 25 degree postion, correct?

Thanks again, tstex

PS - are the gears all plastic or a composite? if so, how long ago did they go from metal to plastic? thx


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Thank you very much Yoda - appreciate the pic and comments.

Can you pls clarify this statement for me: 

"The pinion mechanism will overpower the the lever lock if you try but the lock is sufficient to hold the blade axis when cutting." 


I'm not sure what you mean by trying to over power the pinion mechanism lock? 
_
To tilt the blade, the lever lock is pulled out to release, then push in and rotate the hand wheel. This will engage the pinion wheel and tilt the blade. The blade and entire motor assy tilts together, so quite heavy. The pinion gear and rack are geared to easily move the entire assy. If you tried to tilt the blade with out releasing the lock it would likely move. 
So if this was Sivi's test, not sure it is relevant. _

So, if you want to move the blade up & down, you turn the main handle. if you want to cut at 25 degrees, you push in the handle, crank it, then flip the beve lock above to keep the blade in the 25 degree postion, correct?

_The normal operating position for the lock lever is lock on (pushed in).
To tilt the blade in any direction the lock would be pulled first. Make your tilting adjustment, then re-lock. 
_

Thanks again, tstex

PS - are the gears all plastic or a composite? if so, how long ago did they go from metal to plastic? thx

_Not sure, my saw is 5+ years old and believe the gears are plastic. It's at job site right now, so can't look at it. I will check it out tomorrow. 
_


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Yoda - I'm going to check out a display unit and go thru the process.

My question for asking if the gears were plastic is I wanted to know if the plastic gears have been put to test yet, and if so, how long? I rarely invest in brand new models of almost anything until the kinks are worked-out. If yours are plastic and it's 5 yrs old, and been used regularly, that's a decent timeframe - again. thank you very much...


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I will let you know tomorrow on the gears. But to put in perspective, 99 times out of 100 when you use a table saw you will use the fence and make no adjustment with the blade tilt. If you did make a blade adjustment the pinion gear might make 2 or 3 revs to reach the entire travel, and at very low speed or as fast as you can turn the hand wheel.
If you did break it Rigid would send you another no charge.


There have been comments about cheesy miter gages as well. And they are mostly true. But who buys a table saw to make precision cross cuts. Thats what your miter saw or radial arm is for. Cross cutting anything over about 4' is asking for trouble anyway. (I know if you are careful it can be done, I don't need a tongue lashing).

If you really need accurate cross cuts on your table saw buy or build your own two rail sled.

The miter gage that comes with the saw will get you out of trouble but not much more.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tstex said:


> Thanks Yoda - I'm going to check out a display unit and go thru the process.
> 
> My question for asking if the gears were plastic is I wanted to know if the plastic gears have been put to test yet, and if so, how long? I rarely invest in brand new models of almost anything until the kinks are worked-out. If yours are plastic and it's 5 yrs old, and been used regularly, that's a decent timeframe - again. thank you very much...




Here's an article that i came across, that might help answer some questions you have about the 4513, quite informative i thought, and i THINK it says the gears are metal, but Yodaman can confirm that tomorrow.


https://www.protoolreviews.com/tool...st-portable-jobsite-table-saw-shootout/24024/


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

Sorry I was offline a bit and read and caught up now. I apologize for the misuse of the trunnion word, it was used in other reviews concerning the R4513 and I honestly never heard of it before and did a quick scan of a wiki on it's use in cannons and then boom misuse of a word. 

"The hand wheel when pushed in will engage the pinion gear and swivel the blade."

On the R4513 I had, pushing the hand wheel in released it from the pinion gear and the spring attached pushed it back when released thus making the entire pushing process useless, that could be one of the issues.

"The pinion mechanism will overpower the the lever lock if you try but the lock is sufficient to hold the blade axis when cutting. Unless one side off your blade is toast there really are no lateral forces to move it in either direction."

On mine, the blade crept while cutting even after I tightened the crap out of the tension nut on the back of the motor which the manual states is how you adjust the tension of the lock. Never even thought of a washer and if I did I would probably still have that saw since it was awesome besides the bevel lock.

"PS - are the gears all plastic or a composite? if so, how long ago did they go from metal to plastic? thx"

Mine were plastic but the teeth looked plenty beefy enough to hold up and there shouldn't be much strain on those gears if the lock is working.


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## Sivi70980 (Nov 28, 2016)

Canarywood1 said:


> I just came back from HD, and was looking at the Delta 36-6022, and if anything ever belonged in a dumpster thats it, just can't believe anyone would buy something as crappy as that even at a $199.00, but i guess if your happy with Black and Decker tools who am i to criticize, but that is strictly an entry level tool, and a poor one at that.



I don't know about anyone else's HD but the one I went to made all their display saws look like garbage. Even the R4513 with an amazing fence was crap on their display model. I'm convinced they throw that stuff together without any thought at all in the process. I'm sure if they had the 36-6022 on display, I would have hesitated to select it, they aren't exactly doing a great job selling these things off their showroom floors. 

Ultimately my Delta works for me and maybe I have the 1 out of 10 that happened to come out of the factory in great shape, the same could be said about your Ridgid. I'm happy yours is working great for you and I hope my Delta holds up over time as well. As I pointed out in my previous reply, your Ridgid seems to have the bevel pinion wheel working properly as mine was not. I'm guessing yours is a much better example of the saw than mine was.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks to everyone - your follow-up is appreciated and is full of good information....tstex


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Took a look at my saw today and snapped a couple pics. The pinion gear is part of the hand wheel, all one pc and plastic. The mating rack is metal. I miss-spoke earlier, the gear is fully engaged all time, you can pull out the hand wheel to diss-engage the pinion gear and just push to swivel blade, then use the gear to fine adjust.

Lock lever adjustment nut is on the back side of the saw. A washer or 2 under the lock nut would take up some slack. I have never touched it. Didn't even know it was there until today.


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## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Wow, thanks Yoda. I guess this thread helped us to re-examine our current saws and surely explore the news ones...I will have to go up to the store and engage every diff saw and see how they work and get their feel...

Thanks again and I will post back by this weekend on the final selection - best regards, tstex


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

The more you look at the saw the more things you find out about it, the specs say the dust port is 2 inches, wrong it's 2 1/2 inches, specs say blade speed is 4000 RPM's, sticker on the saw with serial number says 5000 RPM, but those are good things to find out about it.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Just found out a bad thing about the Ridgid R4513, the price went back to $399.00, but i think it's still a good tool for the price, sure beats out a bunch of others i've looked at.


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