# Goodman furnace E2 error code



## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

So I have a 2016 furnace with a E2 error code that has intermittently problems. I changed the pressure switch and it seemed to work for a while but then within 24 hours is doing the same thing, inducer kicks on but no flame. If I reset the pressure switch, blow air into tube starts working again. Thermostat will call for heat but in some cases furnace will not even start. I am at the end of my rope here, I had a tech out and paid for the visit, he came back a second time and while he was here everything was working fine. A few hours later, same issue. GMVC961005CNAA is the furnace, this is a dual stage furnace currently I use a Sensi smart thermostat. I also tried a new thermostat without any luck. What else can I do to fix this issue?


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

Make sure the combustion air intake and exhaust are clear outside.

Check the condensate lines and trap for blockages. Water backing up can reduce flow and cause the pressure switch to not make.

Check the pressure switch tubes for blockages.



If nothing is obviously wrong, you'll have to get a manometer to check the draft.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Pressure switch is likely doing it’s job. 
Tech should have checked draft while on site. 
As said above you’ll have to check for blockages.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

I visually checked the exhaust and intake outside the house to make sure they are not obstructed and could not find anything. Then I called the maintenance tech and he diagnosed the problem as a faulty low pressure switch, did not have one in stock, too late 11 pm to get one, so he bypassed it for the night in order to get heat. The furnace worked but never kicked on right away when the thermostat would call for heat. Next day I found a new OEM switch and replaced it myself. Furnace started working fine, I had the tech come out just to make sure everything was good and later in the evening I had the initial problem again. I opened the furnace, saw the code, I checked the manual and again low pressure switch. This time is a brand new one. I took the rubber tube off and blew a little air into the switch, felt like it was stuck. Started the furnace again, working good since yesterday 11 pm. This is a two stage furnace and also setup for high fire, I think the code mentions something about that. When the tech was out here last time he was testing the high fire on the furnace. 
I am not a HVAC professional but I understand tech and learn quickly. Obviously, I do not have the tools but I appreciate all the advice you guys got me so far. I will contact the tech and suggest what you guys mentioned in the previous posts. Thank y


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Never ever bypass a safety control. 
If that was the guys fix for the night he has no idea what he’s doing. That’s extremely dangerous and could have easily started a fire.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

Yes, I haven't closed an eye Friday night because I did not feel safe. 

So the furnace is been working fine for almost 12 hours then again did not start when the thermostat called for heat. I opened the furnace and blew into that tube, started right away. 
So maybe to explain this better, this furnace has 3 pressure sensors, low fire, high fire and another one that I was told I have to replace and I did. This is the sensor I keep resetting. The tech called me back this morning and said it is almost certain the low fire pressure sensor because the intake is clear and there was no water when I unplugged this tube. Another sensor? I do not mind replacing bad parts but I have a feeling he is just guessing now. How can I tell if the drain tubes are re clear of debris?


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

If this is the guy that bypassed the pressure switch, he has no idea what he’s doing. Don’t call him anymore as he’s literally going to hurt someone doing such (lack of) quality of work. 
Blowing or sucking on the switches can damage the bellows. 
Check draft with a manometer.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

I just asked the tech if we should check the draft, this is his response. To me it makes sense what he says but again, I am not a HVAC guy. 


Yes we can def hook up a menomiter and see what the draft is. The low fire pressure switch is def the culprit. The door pressure switch is wired in series with the gas valve and the low fire is in series with the safety's switches. Having two switches fail is quit common. Replacing the low fire pressure switch will solve the issue. The inducer is not the issue. If the inducer was failing the pressure switch you replaced would not even close. But for the fact that the highest fire pressure switch is closing tells me there is more than enough draft to close the low fire switch.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Again, you should never use anyone that jumps safety’s out and leaves them. Even if it’s overnight. 
We use meters to diagnose issues. 
You have a parts changer that will charge you to keep changing things until he stumbles across the issue. 
If the low fire switch was the issue, why didn’t he change it previously?


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

the inducer runs at a different speed on low so there's no guaranty it's the low fire pressure switch.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

What exactly do you mean by having to reset a pressure switch?

They have no manual reset unlike some high temp limit controls.

Is it the door pressure switch you are working with?

You should never suck or blow into or on a pressure switch as the bellows inside could get damaged.

The proper procedure is to put a manometer inline with them. 

Take the hose off of it and where it enters the burner box (NOT the switch itself) push a drill bit thru that orifice as sometimes they get scale build up. NOT the switch as some posters have done and damaged them.

If it is the door pressure switch then maybe the door is not sealing properly. It is there to prevent people running the furnace with the door off.

Post a pic of the switches.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

Thanks for your reply. It is not the door sensor. I am attaching pics. The sensor to the right is the one that I replaced, the group of 2 sensors I have not replaced. Following your direction I unplugged the tube from the furnace and slowly ran a small drill bit. I encountered a little bit of resistence and the bit came out wet. Not sure if this is normal. There was no water dripping out. 
I meant reset the sensor by unplugging the hose and gently blowing air, I was told I can do that to get it unstuck. Live and learn, again thanks for advising against it.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

The pressure switch shouldn’t be holding water. 
If it is it could be a sign of a condensate drainage problem.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

It was coming from that black tank in the back, not from the switch. I unplugged the drain tubes and checked, they are not clogged. I will try to get the switches this week, if the problem continues I will have a set of spare switches.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

NO!!!! 
DO NOT just start replacing random parts. It can lead to a pointless endeavor that ends with you out money and still stuck with broken equipment. 
Everything there can be checked and diagnosed. 
What tank do you speak of? Inducer? Collector plate? Exhaust?


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

Looks like a collector tank, black and rectangular shaped, it sits behind all the other equipment. I trying to attach a pic.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

That’s the collector plate, or collector box. 
Shouldn’t have water sitting there. Sounds like you may have a clogged drain.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

I took the hose at the bottom of that plate off, and there was no water coming out. I flashed a light into that hole could not see a clog and I gently pushed a wire inside. How else can I check without specialty tools?


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Take all the hoses off and blow everything out. Make sure there’s no water laying anywhere. Clean the nipples on the pressure switches.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

Ok, I will do exactly as you say and test tonight and post an update. Thank you everybody for advising me on this issue.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

So it seems to work for a while and then stop, E2 code again. I did the best I could to check all the tubes and the switches nipples, could not see any blockages. I woke up at 2 AM and noticed it was not working even though the thermostat was calling for heat. Yesterday I talked to the tech and he said if he comes out he has to replace the switch and charge me $400. I found both low and high in a pair for 60 so I ordered them. Besides paying another company to come check the furnace I don't know what else to do. I am already minus $200 and still have a problem.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

I temporarily correct the problem by unplugging the electrical wires from one of the switches, the one I replaced already. This is a pressure switch for the drain, but there is no blockage. After that is working again for a while. I think I am gonna bit the bullet and call another company to come check it out.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The port on the collector box where the press switch hoses attaches can be wet but should not get plugged with scale. It should be sloped/beveled backwards inside to prevent water sitting in it.

Check the furnace to see if it is sitting level from front to back. Ideally it should be sloped from back to front about 1/2 an inch even though the manual says level is OK.

It helps drain the water from the secondary coil better and faster and some furnaces are very finicky about that. Maybe it has settled after a year or so. Try slope it 1/2 an inch.

You may have water hanging up in the secondary heat exchanger coil.


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## roughneck (Nov 28, 2014)

Unplugging and plugging the pressure switches isn’t going to really reset or fix anything. Did you plug it back in?
The next step would be checking draft with a manometer.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

I unplugged/plugged the switch to get the furnace working again. I had another tech out today, he confirmed there is no draining issue and he checked the pressure at the switches. He tested for over an hour and he came to the conclusion this is a bad low pressure switch, intermittent problem.


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## AL787 (Dec 2, 2010)

I will have the switch by tomorrow, install it and post back an update.


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## hvacguy911 (Dec 16, 2020)

AL787 said:


> I visually checked the exhaust and intake outside the house to make sure they are not obstructed and could not find anything. Then I called the maintenance tech and he diagnosed the problem as a faulty low pressure switch, did not have one in stock, too late 11 pm to get one, so he bypassed it for the night in order to get heat. The furnace worked but never kicked on right away when the thermostat would call for heat. Next day I found a new OEM switch and replaced it myself. Furnace started working fine, I had the tech come out just to make sure everything was good and later in the evening I had the initial problem again. I opened the furnace, saw the code, I checked the manual and again low pressure switch. This time is a brand new one. I took the rubber tube off and blew a little air into the switch, felt like it was stuck. Started the furnace again, working good since yesterday 11 pm. This is a two stage furnace and also setup for high fire, I think the code mentions something about that. When the tech was out here last time he was testing the high fire on the furnace.
> I am not a HVAC professional but I understand tech and learn quickly. Obviously, I do not have the tools but I appreciate all the advice you guys got me so far. I will contact the tech and suggest what you guys mentioned in the previous posts. Thank y


STOP trying to fix something since you don't know what you are doing. Stop jumping out the pressure switch! EVER!


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## marco.sanch83 (Jan 26, 2021)

AL787 said:


> So I have a 2016 furnace with a E2 error code that has intermittently problems. I changed the pressure switch and it seemed to work for a while but then within 24 hours is doing the same thing, inducer kicks on but no flame. If I reset the pressure switch, blow air into tube starts working again. Thermostat will call for heat but in some cases furnace will not even start. I am at the end of my rope here, I had a tech out and paid for the visit, he came back a second time and while he was here everything was working fine. A few hours later, same issue. GMVC961005CNAA is the furnace, this is a dual stage furnace currently I use a Sensi smart thermostat. I also tried a new thermostat without any luck. What else can I do to fix this issue?


Were you able to fix it? I'm having the same issue.


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## Mike450 (Feb 1, 2021)

Same thing is happening to me and I’m stuck inside for next two days in a blizzard and it’s 20 degrees... my repair guy took everything apart, looked for blockages, checked resistance levels, and by process of elimination thinks it must be the low pressure switch, which I can’t get for two days... this rental is so poorly insulated I would freeze to death, so I think he did bypass it because I have little choice... trying to keep it lower so it doesn’t kick on as much... not sure what else to do


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

If its bypassed, then the heat won't come on automatically.


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## DustyDude (Feb 7, 2021)

I had all the same issues. E2 error. Id pull the hoses off and do the old suck and blow on each pressure switch and it would fix itself for a short while only to find another E2 error shortly there after. Finally it occurred to me to test the switches with a multi meter. Removing the leads I would check the resistance across the 2 terminals and they all checked out. Open circuit w/o suction which would close when I sucked on the tube. So with the knowledge that the switches were all working I figured it had to be something else. My Goodman system is a close 2 stage. There are 3 pressure switches. Two of them are connected into a single hose at a T fitting. I suspected that the push on connections to that T were leaking just enough to cause an intermittent error (vacuum leak). I used 3 small tie straps to secure and draw tight each of these connections. Problem solved. Furnace has been running all day w/o error.
If the error comes back I'll re post....


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## DustyDude (Feb 7, 2021)

Mike450 said:


> Same thing is happening to me and I’m stuck inside for next two days in a blizzard and it’s 20 degrees... my repair guy took everything apart, looked for blockages, checked resistance levels, and by process of elimination thinks it must be the low pressure switch, which I can’t get for two days... this rental is so poorly insulated I would freeze to death, so I think he did bypass it because I have little choice... trying to keep it lower so it doesn’t kick on as much... not sure what else to do


 Check my post below...


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## DustyDude (Feb 7, 2021)

marco.sanch83 said:


> Were you able to fix it? I'm having the same issue.


Check my post below...


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## Blessed By Him (Feb 8, 2021)

I have a 3yr old Goodman/GMVC960804CN

I had an E2 code and these were my symptoms:
-Heat would only turn on when temps were very low below set temp
-Thermostat calling for heat, but nothing happening (until temp was very low)
-Blower fan was not quiet, sounded as if something was wrong/in it
-LO heat would activate, but immediately shut back off with blower fan running continuously

Solution to fix:
My condensation drain was clogged at the rubber exhaust elbow!








-I removed the blower fan (which had water build up) and all the pressure switches (Confirmed all vacuum hoses were not clogged).

Removed the two lower condensation drain hoses










and the rubber exhaust elbow and cleaned out the clog, which was a bunch of dead STINK BUGS!! (btw- we do have a stink bug problem in our area. They came down the inlet/exhaust vent).
I also removed/cleaned the white condensation trap in the lower fan compartment (mounted to the top right and connects to the two lower condensation lines I removed earlier) and blew air down the rest of the condensation drain, which was slightly clogged.

After cleaning/putting everything back together, works like it’s brand new (lol- it is only 3yrs old)!

So, moral of my story/experience: listen to others who say not to spend money yet (just randomly buying/replacing parts) and to check for clogged lines, as that’s what the manufacturer recommends as one of the solutions. Getting your hands dirty and a little labor goes a long way and saves money!

Hope this helps!
(Disclaimer: the attached pics is not from me, but from another post and I did edit it to show my problem area. It’s exactly what my furnace looks like behind the combustion panel)


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## charlesparker (Dec 27, 2021)

The drainage problems are common if the furnace is not tilted when installed. Replace the three vacuum switches as a maintenance item every 3-4 years. They are poorly made. They often pass the resistance test but the springs for the contacts are weak and they don't operate at proper vacuum. If you look around, three switches for $50+/-. Beats hundreds of $$ sending service several times as they tend to fail one at a time.


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