# **PICS *** How should I fix this balcony drip rail?



## noone (May 4, 2011)

Just moved into a new-to-us house. The previous owners had work done to stop water intrusion. I am looking at this drip rail under the balcony and don't like how it is just barely protruding away from the face of the stucco. It seems that water could still get into the top of the stucco, which is exposed foam, right there at the very bottom of the 2 x 4 that the drip rail mostly covers (you can see some exposed wood when you look up at it from the ground). Since I can't remove and reinstall a new drip rail, as this one is glued to the balcony floor above it with tile on it, I was thinking of maybe trying to slide in a piece of flashing behind that drip rail that would hang over the lip of the top of the stucco at an angle. Basically extend it out down and out about an inch so it keeps the water from always running on that stucco face. Perhaps screw it in with some galvanized nails and then caulk the seams and screws and then paint it all flat black? What kind of caulk could I use? Or is there some kind of special caulk that I could use at the top of the stucco up there, and caulk the 1/2" gap that exists at the top of the stucco up there and the bottom of the 2 x 4 that the drip rail covers? Thoughts? Suggestions?


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## coderguy (Jan 10, 2011)

Can you post another picture from the top?


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## coderguy (Jan 10, 2011)

It looks like the wrong size drip plate; but I also want to say a porch like that will usually have a lip instead of just freely 'dripping' and then there will be a drain.

I would try to get the right size plate; then caulk.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

coderguy said:


> It looks like the wrong size drip plate; but I also want to say a porch like that will usually have a lip instead of just freely 'dripping' and then there will be a drain.
> 
> I would try to get the right size plate; then caulk.


Do you mean a taller drip plate? How would I install it since the other one is permanently thinset to the bottom of the balcony floor tiles?


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## coderguy (Jan 10, 2011)

That appears to be a drain spout on the left? Hence the marking on the walls. Why is it open on one side and not U shaped. 

You would need a aluminum lip to mount under the current lip (to it, but underneath). I'm not sure how to apply it to the stucco; but should probably be attached there; and then caulked at the bottom. I hope that makes sense.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

coderguy said:


> That appears to be a drain spout on the left? Hence the marking on the walls. Why is it open on one side and not U shaped.
> 
> You would need a aluminum lip to mount under the current lip (to it, but underneath). I'm not sure how to apply it to the stucco; but should probably be attached there; and then caulked at the bottom. I hope that makes sense.


It does make sense and is what I was thinking i should do. Do I used galvanized nails to nail the 'lip' behind the current drip rail to the 2 x 4? What kind of caulk should I use for under the new 'lip' I install and also what kind of caulk do I use to seal the two pieces of metal together at the lip angle?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

If you slide it about 1-2", or more under the existing, no caulk is necessary. If you lap your joints about 6", or even more, no caulk is necessary on the verticals either. I'm not sure how you fasten that particular detail. I'd use a continuous locking strip on the bottom of the board, if that's what I'm seeing, hook the new metal to it and screw through the existing to secure it at the top. 
Hopefully, these links will help.
http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/gravel_stops.html

http://www.fabral.com/downloads/details-a400-arch.pdf


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> If you slide it about 1-2", or more under the existing, no caulk is necessary. If you lap your joints about 6", or even more, no caulk is necessary on the verticals either. I'm not sure how you fasten that particular detail. I'd use a continuous locking strip on the bottom of the board, if that's what I'm seeing, hook the new metal to it and screw through the existing to secure it at the top.
> Hopefully, these links will help.
> http://www.copper.org/applications/architecture/arch_dhb/flashings_copings/gravel_stops.html
> 
> http://www.fabral.com/downloads/details-a400-arch.pdf


Ok, so if I understand you correctly, slide a continuous locking strip behind the existing drip rail, and then sandwich the new angled drip rail between this continuous lock strip and the existing drip rail. Then screw it in through the existing drip rail, new drip rail and locking strip into the wood? Do I use galvanized screws or nails? What is a 'continuous locking strip'? Can I get all this from Home Depot?

Thanks again for the assistance.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Not quite. You could nail or screw an upside down lock strip under the existing, and do the same on, but extending below the piece of wood and have no exposed fasteners.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Something like this. I forgot to make the LS's in red. New piece is in red.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

One caveat. THe lower rear lip probably should be about 1" long, the upper 1/2" long. Then, you would line up hooked to the lower edge, shove up and hook to the upper LS. THen, assuming you're using painted aluminum or vinyl metal of the color you want, it won't bind and create ripples in the surface.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> One caveat. THe lower rear lip probably should be about 1" long, the upper 1/2" long. Then, you would line up hooked to the lower edge, shove up and hook to the upper LS. THen, assuming you're using painted aluminum or vinyl metal of the color you want, it won't bind and create ripples in the surface.


Things are looking clearer now. Thanks for the explanation.

How thick is the locking strip? 

I'm wondering if I can even get it behind the existing drip rail and screwed into the 2 x 4 without bending the hell out of it. I can't really fasten the locking strip to the stucco facia as it is just foam shell covered with a thin layer of stucco up there.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Commercial apps call for 24-22 Ga. steel. You could use 019 aluminum, or thicker. 
As for getting it under there, it's going to take finesse. A Malco 'I-beam' roofers bars and many gentle pries to loosen and work it outwards. You only need 1/16" to 1/4". (I think I'm the only person that sets my decking 1/2" to 1" past the fascia to allow for gutters, auxiliary flashing, remodeling, or whatever.)
The upper lip only needs a slight bend to work. Experiment with different smaller pieces somewhere before going for the gusto!
I use my shop table for experimentation and to work out kinks in the plans.

You could drill a small hole through the drivet or stucco somewhere and see what the substrate is, depth of stucco, etc. Without knowing that, nobody can answer your question with accuracy.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

tinner666 said:


> Commercial apps call for 24-22 Ga. steel. You could use 019 aluminum, or thicker.
> As for getting it under there, it's going to take finesse. A Malco 'I-beam' roofers bars and many gentle pries to loosen and work it outwards. You only need 1/16" to 1/4". (I think I'm the only person that sets my decking 1/2" to 1" past the fascia to allow for gutters, auxiliary flashing, remodeling, or whatever.)
> The upper lip only needs a slight bend to work. Experiment with different smaller pieces somewhere before going for the gusto!
> I use my shop table for experimentation and to work out kinks in the plans.
> ...


Sounds doable!

What is my Home Depot list going to be?
1. Tin snips
2. Malco i-beam roofer's bar (I have a flat bar, is that ok?)
3. ?? 2" locking strip
4. ?? What kind of metal goes on the locking strip? do I have to bend it or will it fit right on it? I'm hoping I can screw it at the top part of the LS into the 2 x 4 underneath the existing drip rail.
5. ?? What kind of screws? Galvanized?

I have done indoor plumbing, outdoor plumbing, electrical, drywall/painting, carpentry, trim carpentry, flooring, but i'm a virgin at roofing.......

Thanks again Frank.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

is my Home Depot list going to be?
1. Tin snips
2. Malco i-beam roofer's bar (I have a flat bar, is that ok?) 
OK

3. ?? 2" locking strip?
Depends on how far under you can go, at least 1", and how much nailing area you need. I prefer 3-4" nailing area, just in case, so to speak.

4. ?? What kind of metal goes on the locking strip? Your new fascia? I'd get vinyl.
do I have to bend it or will it fit right on it? You have to bend it. If there is a roofing company, or sheet metal shop, or siding shop nearby, you could possibly get somebody to bend if for you. If a friend have a siding break, you could do it yourself maybe.
It's doable on your own with a set of Malco 'Hand Seamers', http://www.amazon.com/Malco-S6-6-Inch-Hand-Seamer/dp/B00004SUQV,
http://www.amazon.com/Malco-S2XXX-3-Inch-Hand-Seamer/dp/B00004SUQU,
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=6y4CTq3RJeX00gHvzrWZDg&ved=0CEsQ8wIwAA#

(I'm partial to the S3 myself. You'll never go back to the straight ones.)
I'm hoping I can screw it at the top part of the LS into the 2 x 4 underneath the existing drip rail.
5. ?? What kind of screws? Galvanized? Zinc or stainless panhead, self tapping might be best.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Thanks for the advice Frank.

Wow, I didn't want to spend a boatload on this. Sounds like it may be more cost effective to hire someone.

Know of any good roofers in the Jacksonville FL area?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

You might post a request at roofingdotcom. I don't know any.


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## noone (May 4, 2011)

Thinking, "how hard can this be", I went to Home Depot looking for parts.

No one knew what locking strip was and I couldn't find any. 

I didn't know what to buy either, regarding vinyl flashing, as I only saw drip rails like were already installed incorrectly on my house.

?????


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