# Heat Pump Woes



## SKIP4661 (Dec 3, 2008)

The new compressor may have internal damage such as bent valves from being so grossly overcharged. Also seems as if your auxillary heat is not being energized. Go through the phone book and find a Payne, Bryant or Carrier dealer with a good reputation. If not sure ask neighbors who they recommend.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

SKIP4661 said:


> The new compressor may have internal damage such as bent valves from being so grossly overcharged. Also seems as if your auxillary heat is not being energized. Go through the phone book and find a Payne, Bryant or Carrier dealer with a good reputation. If not sure ask neighbors who they recommend.


Someone asked me if the line was nitrogen-flowed. I had to Google and search here for the term "flow+nitrogen+brazing" to learn what
it is and more important, why it is done. I can say that not one of the contractors that worked on my Heat Pump did this. 

While the contractor that came out last was nice, friendly and did educate me about permits, he is not able to fix my problem and when it is 22 degrees outside, I need a contractor, not a friend I give money to.

I am looking for someone else, a contractor that is competent, capable and confidant enough to answer some pre-qualifying questions, I just need help developing that list of questions. What to ask, what answers to look for and what certifications this person ought to have. I don't want to keep paying turnips-with-a-wrench because it had a yellow book ad.


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## sammy37 (Dec 9, 2008)

I think the first thing you need to do is ditch the home warranty! Home warranty companies seem to contract the lowest bidding HVAC company they can find and they are usually all hacks.

I here constant nightmares from people regarding the same problems you are describing with your company. Like skip said, go through the phone book and find a good Bryant dealer.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Why a Bryant dealer if my system is Carrier/Payne?

We ditched AHS at the end of the 2nd contract, the Heat Pump issue was the main reason 
we elected not to renew.


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## sammy37 (Dec 9, 2008)

sorry, I had my head somewhere else this morning. Bryant, Carrier, Payne are all the same manufacture.

Where I live, there are hundreds of a/c companies and a great deal of them arent worth a darn. Get in your phone book and find a large reputable company that specializes in your unit.


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## AndrewF (Dec 29, 2008)

I'll weigh in here as well. The home warranty is a joke...my house came with one, and I canceled it and got the money back and used it elsewhere.

They will ALWAYS go the CHEAPEST possible route.


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## micromind (Mar 9, 2008)

The 'stepping on a cats tail' squeal sounds a lot like a scroll-type compressor turning backward. This is very rare on a single-phase power system, and usually only happens once. When the compressor is shut off and re-started, it almost always turns in the proper direction. If the system is 3 phase, wires need to be changed to correct the problem. 

If this noise occurred for more than a few minutes, the compressor is most likely damaged beyond repair. This would explain the lukewarm line. 

Having no filter installed and not using nitrogen would also damage the compressor. I've never even seen a system without a filter!

Rob


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

stupid question is this an r22 system or or 410a? if its the latter did the (guys) use a green can of freon (r22) check the label on the outdoor unit see if its 22 or 410a perhaps the wrong refrigerant was used, just a thought good luck and just so you know a 3ton compressor is a 3 ton compressor all day long a savvy tech could have installed any compressor as long as the tonnage was correct and voltage and mounting feet were a match just were lazy (i just used 3 ton as an example)


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## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

american home shield was your first mistake. I would not want to deal with the likes of them at all. 

As you can tell by now, they are sending out the same ignorant contractor who just can't seem to get the repairs right.

Time to call another HVAC professional for a second (and even a third) opinion on what you course you should take from here. Even if you have to spend some $$$ out of pocket, you have to get your heat system fixed properly.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

micromind said:


> The 'stepping on a cats tail' squeal sounds a lot like a scroll-type compressor turning backward. This is very rare on a single-phase power system, and usually only happens once. When the compressor is shut off and re-started, it almost always turns in the proper direction. If the system is 3 phase, wires need to be changed to correct the problem.
> 
> If this noise occurred for more than a few minutes, the compressor is most likely damaged beyond repair. This would explain the lukewarm line.
> 
> ...


The "cat's tail" noise was almost a constant noise from the time this unit was installed until the 2nd company AHS dispatched came and evacuated 18lbs 10oz and recharged with 6lbs 8oz. He believed but could not say difinitevly that compressor damage was likely.

In a vehicle's gasoline engine, a technician can compression check the cylinders to help determine damage and loss of compression, what can be done with this compressor to determine if internal damage is present?

Our unit is the Payne PH13 R-22, I am not sure if this is single phase or 3-phase, how can I determine what it is? Carrier isn't much help on the phone because I am not a contractor. 



kennzz05 said:


> stupid question is this an r22 system or or 410a? if its the latter did the (guys) use a green can of freon (r22) check the label on the outdoor unit see if its 22 or 410a perhaps the wrong refrigerant was used, just a thought good luck and just so you know a 3ton compressor is a 3 ton compressor all day long a savvy tech could have installed any compressor as long as the tonnage was correct and voltage and mounting feet were a match just were lazy (i just used 3 ton as an example)


This is an R22 type and the bottles they filled from did say R22 on them.
Wouldn't the valves or connectors be different from R22 and anything else? I know that R12 and R134-A do not share the same type of connecting valves.



kbsparky said:


> american home shield was your first mistake. I would not want to deal with the likes of them at all.
> 
> As you can tell by now, they are sending out the same ignorant contractor who just can't seem to get the repairs right.
> 
> Time to call another HVAC professional for a second (and even a third) opinion on what you course you should take from here. Even if you have to spend some $$$ out of pocket, you have to get your heat system fixed properly.


 
This is the next thing I am working on but I'd prefer being able to prequalify the person before watching him or her screw up and handing me a bill after. I'd like a simple check list of things to ask, answers to look for and certifications to check so I can minimize hiring a contractor like AHS hired.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

I have a Payne Authorized contractor coming out Monday, after giving him the Cliff Notes version via the phone, he feels that the compressor is damaged, something to do with trying to compress a liquid. One of the valves connected to the suction line at the base of the compressor is also ruined from excessive heat while brazing. He also thought a 5KW stip was too small, he thought a 10 to 12KW would be more suitable.

I know we can't discuss $$$ here but I need $$$ advice.

If I replace this unit, do/should I replace the air handler and line set as well.

Also, I am looking at R22 vs 410A and what SEER level I need.

The two units I am leaning towards are the Trane XL16i and the Lennox XP19.

Which is the best for a townhouse application and what is the the aprox of each?
Do the costs of these units from the manufacturer include the air handler?
If not, can the air handler come from any OEM or does it also come from the
manufacturer of the heat pump but at additional cost?

I also scheduled Home Depot & Sears to get estimates... for the estimate value and education value of additional opinions.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The cat squealing noise is the internal relief valve blowing and the compressor is probably shot. With all the poor welding/contamination that these hacks have done to your system I would replace it. It is a money $$ pit and not worth repairing IMO. Been in this biz 30 yrs. Prices vary from region to region. The Lennox is a higher SEER unit/more efficient. Both are good brands. The MOST important thing is to get a reputable contractor to install it properly and set it up properly. Get several quotes and talk to your neighbors/friends/co-workers to see if they have had good work done by someone they trust and recommend. You will need a new indoor coil as the new freon is R410 and you must have matching components. Best to stay with all the same brand for warranty issues/compatibility. I prefer Lennox. They make air handlers with ECM high efficiency fan motors which save a LOT of electricity $$ and are worthwhile. Those last two companies use 3rd party subcontractors and I would rather not comment on the quality of such contractors. Find a good independant is what I would recommend.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

yuri said:


> The cat squealing noise is the internal relief valve blowing and the compressor is probably shot. With all the poor welding/contamination that these hacks have done to your system I would replace it. It is a money $$ pit and not worth repairing IMO. Been in this biz 30 yrs. Prices vary from region to region. The Lennox is a higher SEER unit/more efficient. Both are good brands. The MOST important thing is to get a reputable contractor to install it properly and set it up properly. Get several quotes and talk to your neighbors/friends/co-workers to see if they have had good work done by someone they trust and recommend. You will need a new indoor coil as the new freon is R410 and you must have matching components. Best to stay with all the same brand for warranty issues/compatibility. I prefer Lennox. They make air handlers with ECM high efficiency fan motors which save a LOT of electricity $$ and are worthwhile. Those last two companies use 3rd party subcontractors and I would rather not comment on the quality of such contractors. Find a good independant is what I would recommend.


Thank you for your reply. Your comments make absolute sense.

I am leaning towards the Lennox and would prefer them over the Trane
with the price point being the deciding factor. I have no pricing on either
of them yet. I am only having Home Depot or Sears come so that in the event I sue the dolt that botched this Payne system, I'll walk into couirt with multiple estimates and statements from different contractors.

I do not plan to use anyone Home Depot or Sears sends here unless
they can really wine and dine me with their dazzling intellect and impress me with technical skills. I think I have a better chance of winning the lottery and I haven't bought a ticket.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Lots of trouble here with those "sub contractors" and not just for HVAC. That is the nature of that biz. They chose the cheapest to maximize their profit. Wise old saying told to me this week: Cheap is not Good and Good is not Cheap.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

"Cheap is not Good and Good is not Cheap"

So true.

I just wish "Money doesn't grow on trees" wasn't also true.

The line between a good value and the _perception _of a good value 
is very thin. It tends to break only after money has changed hands.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

IMO the extended warranty that Lennox offers is a very good idea. Not that it will necessarily break down but if you amortize it over 10 yrs it is not that expensive and gives you piece of mind. Us techs like it as we can do a bit better job without fighting with the customer over "costs". Check with your utility co as they sometimes have $$ rebates for buying more efficient HVAC equipment.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

From what I can gather, the Manual J will require taking measurments from every room of
windows, walls and determining R values as well as N,S,E & W orientation. How long does
this process take and how much $$$ will a contractor jack up this estimate to cover his
time for the Manual J and the little extra he'll probably want to hit me with for having asked
him to do the Manual J in the first place. Or am I just being pesimistic?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

I don't really know. One of my sales guys has it in his laptop and that makes it faster. Depends on how fast he moves. You can do it yourself with this site:Load Calculator


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## JohnH1 (Jan 9, 2009)

FYI
1st off I am a independent HVAC contractor and belive in the personal service I can give. I cannot speak for Sears and have never been impressed by there service but.
Re Home Depot There contractors HVAC come out and inspect themselves and they (the installing contractor) set the price to do a proper installation. I am only speaking for myself and have done HVAC work for them and they hold you to a very high standard. If it is not done correctly and the installing contractor can not or will not correct they will hire another to correct the work and send the installing contractor the bill. They are a multi billion corp. that will protect there reputation.
Basicly you are dealing with the small contractor directly but with the added bennifit of the Home Depot also standing behind the work. 
Not that I like them in the HVAC business but it is better to know the whole truth. Don't expect them to be the cheepest bid.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

JohnH1 said:


> FYI
> 1st off I am a independent HVAC contractor and belive in the personal service I can give. I cannot speak for Sears and have never been impressed by there service but.
> Re Home Depot There contractors HVAC come out and inspect themselves and they (the installing contractor) set the price to do a proper installation. I am only speaking for myself and have done HVAC work for them and they hold you to a very high standard. If it is not done correctly and the installing contractor can not or will not correct they will hire another to correct the work and send the installing contractor the bill. They are a multi billion corp. that will protect there reputation.
> Basicly you are dealing with the small contractor directly but with the added bennifit of the Home Depot also standing behind the work.
> Not that I like them in the HVAC business but it is better to know the whole truth. Don't expect them to be the cheepest bid.


This is good to know, should i decide to go with Home Depot.

They [Home Depot] did install our carpet and I must say, we were
happy with the work performed and the price paid [HD set the carpet price]. I know HVAC is a different beast but if that same level of competence is there, it will be a plus. HD was very concerned with our impressions of the work and the workers themselves so I would hope the same is true of the HVAC contractors.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The only way to know for sure is for the contractor to have references/pictures of jobs done etc. Check them out before investing a lot of $$ into another botched system.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Yuri,

I thought of that but I discounted the idea, it seems to me that it would violate privacy laws for him to start
passing our peoples names, phone numbers or addresses. Pictures would be ok but can also be faked.

Give me 2 hours and I'll have a picture of you in a compromising position with Angelina Jolie.

Pictures do not mean anything without the backing of the person in that picture.


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## JohnH1 (Jan 9, 2009)

Agreed
Pics and references are a very good thing to do but you are also correct anthing can be faked. The good contractors will make the effort to ask there customers if it is ok for you to call. The bottom feeders will normally only work on price and this price is only good if you sign now. Check with the BBB about any one you choose you can do it on line for free. It dosent really matter if they are a member of the BBB just if they have a good record. We are a member and the only requirment is a good record and paying them a fee to be a member.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

John,

I am doing that now, I pulled the BBB report as well as the Hoovers report for
the contractor Payne recommended as well as the one I had come out last week.
I also did it for the 2nd contractor AHS dispatched and the idiot that installed
the system. Everyone else came back without any blemishes except the idiot
that installed the unit, he came back a ghost. No Hoovers file, no BBB, no Google
reports, no anything. He only has a BBB now thanks to my complaint.

Since you and some others here are in this business, have some of your prior
clients approved allowing you to have potential clients call them? What is the requency
you find that clients will allow that?


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## JohnH1 (Jan 9, 2009)

Some companys have a list of customers ready to give you. If I have someone request references I then will find some recent installations simmilar to theres. Then I will call and ask the customer for permition to foward there information. I have never been turned down yet. Although only maby 6 people in the last 10 years have actually asked for refrences.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

I like Angelina and will pose for free with her. I believe the only way to get good references is from people you know AND the name of the workers they used. I have a long list of people who ask for me and yet my company has some characters you would never want. Very hard to get decent, honest techs who are professional. Lots of them just want to make beer money and nothing else.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

*HP Woes*

Well Payne came out and looked at the unit today, they came
to the conclusion the compressor is shot, the suction side valve o-rings
are burnt, the liquid line is too small, the heat strip under-rated and the
bypass valve is also stuck--what ever that means.

They suggest replacing the outside unit, line set & air handler. I asked them for
a rough guestimate on price, with the Carrier Infinity Heat Pump.

I was told $9100, does that seem high? It sure seems high to me when I
have read others getting the Lennox XP19 or Trane XL16i for under 7k.

Any thoughts?


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

Zenica said:


> Well Payne came out and looked at the unit today, they came
> to the conclusion the compressor is shot, the suction side valve o-rings
> are burnt, the liquid line is too small, the heat strip under-rated and the
> bypass valve is also stuck--what ever that means.
> ...


for that price id expect them to replace all the ductwork too and maybe repave your driveway also...sounds a bit high


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Ha! He took measurements to calculate how much extra new ductwork would be!
I have Trane coming out today to give me an estimate.
Can anyone here give me a ball park estimate on what is reasonable for this job?
I can answer any questions so you can get an idea of my setup if it helps.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

We/they need to know where you live as costs vary from region to region, city to city. Take some pics of the air handler/ductwork/outdoor unit and post the size and maybe someone can help.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

yuri said:


> We/they need to know where you live as costs vary from region to region, city to city. Take some pics of the air handler/ductwork/outdoor unit and post the size and maybe someone can help.


Somerset County NJ
2.5 Ton or 3 Ton if unit not made in ½ sizes.

What I am looking at is this:

Trane XL15i HP mated to the 4TEE3F40B with the duct work for $9941.00
Lennox XP15 HP mated to the CBX32MV without ductwork for $9170.00
Carrier Infinity Series 25HNA9 HP mated to the FE4ANF005 with ductwork 
for $8774 after $1000 Carrier rebate. I have not negotiated any of these
prices but am open to if it can save me a little money.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Hey MOD's--thanks! It is nice to see the unwanted advertisment removed 

On a side note, does anyone know of a web site that might have information
like manufacturer dates and specs for a Lennox HP20-311?


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

I was wondering, is a two-stage compressor a significant benefit over a single stage?
I have estimates from a few contractors, I've narrowed it down to 3 based on my
assesment of thier ability and professionalism. All except the Lennox include new ductwork in the garage. 
One is offering the Lennox XP14 with the CBX32MV another the Trane XL15i with the 4TEE3F40B and lastly 
the Carrier Infinity 25HNA9 with the FE4ANF003. From what I can see, only the Carrier is two stage.

Price wise the Carrier is the least expensive, the Trane 2nd and Lennox as the most expensive but dollars to 
donuts, which unit is the best bang for the buck. At this point, I am confidant and comfortable with each 
contractors ability to install the system they recommend so my deciding factors now are cost, features, benefits 
and energy savings.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Not sure if talking $$$ here is a no-no so I'm sure I'll be told if it is. I saw this posted somewhere else dated last year:

_"Carrier Comfort25HCA330 (outside unit) With Carrier Comfort 25HCA330 air handler(13 SEER, standard fan): $4825 _
_With Carrier Performance FV4BNF002 air handler (14 SEER, variable speed): $5425 _
_This estimate is from Environmental Systems Associates in Columbia and includes adjustments to sheet metal inside the house _
_(lower positioning of inside unit to give room for a better "curve" of the venting as it exits the top of the unit), pad/legs outside, etc. _
_I was told that the exterior unit will work with either of the air handlers. _
_The other quote is from H&C in Laurel: _
_Lennox XP-15-15 (2.5 ton) exterior unit _
_Lennox CBX32MV-24/30 air handler (variable speed, 3 ton) (15.2 seer)= $5369 _
_OR _
_Lennox XP13-30 (2.5 ton) exterior unit _
_Lennox CBX32MV-24/30 (3 ton) (14 Seer)= $5,087 _
_These quotes include the sheet metal work, new legs & pad, and the other stuff you'd expect. _
_The Lennox system has more add ons including "better heater"system for another $169."_


Why are the prices damn near 40% less than what I am being quoted in NJ?? Maryland isn't on the
other side of the planet or in mainland china where labor is 18 cents per day. What gives? Are 
contractors trying to give me the shaft? My cheapest quote is 9k for the Carrier Infinity system
with the cheapest Infinity air handler, the 3 series.


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## JohnH1 (Jan 9, 2009)

Zenica said:


> Not sure if talking $$$ here is a no-no so I'm sure I'll be told if it is. I saw this posted somewhere else dated last year:
> 
> _"Carrier Comfort25HCA330 (outside unit) With Carrier Comfort 25HCA330 air handler(13 SEER, standard fan): $4825 _
> _With Carrier Performance FV4BNF002 air handler (14 SEER, variable speed): $5425 _
> ...


Yours is a Heat Pump that looks like a A/C only.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Specs for that unit. Date is determined by the 3rd and 4th digits of the serial #. Ex 6396A = 1996 made in January. http://tech.lennoxintl.com/PDFs/us_ehb_hp20_9010.pdf


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Those are lower level models also.

Not in the same league as the equipment you have been quoted on.
They are also, only doing transition duct work. No major changes.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Those are lower level models also.
> 
> Not in the same league as the equipment you have been quoted on.
> They are also, only doing transition duct work. No major changes.


 
Only the Carrier is top of the line [ for that manufacturer ], the Lennox XP15 and Trane XL15i are middle of the road.

The ductwork in the garage is transitional, meaning it is only enough to extend from the air handler suspended from the garage ceiling to where the ductwork enters the house. It was estimated to be 35-38 feet of ductwork.

In the quote I found online, the Lennox HP and the air handler is the exact same as I was quoted. The 2nd Lennox price in that same quote is for a downgraded HP and air handler. The Carrier system from the quote I found is also high end Infinity series.

I don't see how your comment is relative to my question on price difference. You highlighted something that isn't true, those models are not lower end equipment vs the models I was quoted. I can't be certian about the ductwork but subtract the average of $750 that I was quoted for that portion of it and the prices are still off, by a lot.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The Carrier, HCA, is one level above builders grade.

The Trane 15XLi, is several levels above that HCA.
The 15i, is Trane's highest end single stage unit.


The prices you saw for someone else, were just for the duct transition at the unit, not 38 foot of insulated duct.

Now, the question is.

If someone on any board says, yes those prices are too high.
And you tell those contractors that they are too high. And they say, thats our price, we can't lower it.
What are you going to do.
Most likely, get more prices.

That is what you should do now.
Just get more prices.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

beenthere said:


> The Carrier, HCA, is one level above builders grade.
> 
> The Trane 15XLi, is several levels above that HCA.
> The 15i, is Trane's highest end single stage unit.
> ...


 
Succinctly put. LOL


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

I've been reading the AHRI ratings for different HP│Air Handler combinations recommended by the 
three contractors I have refined my search to. Perhaps someone here can answer something, AHRI 
lists a category as "Low Heating 17°ƒ" and in that column is a BTU rating. Is this the amount of BTU's 
generated at 17°ƒ? and the greater the BTU generated here the less required from the heat strip?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Be very careful you don't start throwing around internet prices with your local contractors. It is insulting and when we get a smarta*s customer we generally don't do "premium" work. You already went thru that once.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

just a thought pick a contractor that youd like to use offer them lets say 7500.00 in crisp new 20 dollar bills and see what happens (honestly offer to pay in cash) this time of year things slow down a bit ya never know and the worst thing that could happen is you pay full price


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Does cash even have that lure it once did vs other payments means like a credit card or check?

The AHRI "Low Heating 17°ƒ" is an indication of BTU's generated without the electric heat strip kicking in
so a greater number here is beneficial in terms of keeping the electric heat off.

Which of these systems would you prefer if cost was not the deciding factor
but rather the EER, HSPF and Low Heating 17°ƒ rating:

Trane 2.5 ton XR14 model 4TWR4030C
Trane variable speed air handler model 4TEE3F31 
EER 12.3
HSPF 8.8
18200 BTU


Trane’s XL15i model 4TWX5030A 
Trane variable speed air handler model 4TEE3F40B 
EER 13
HSPF 9
15200 BTU


Trane XL15i 2 1/2ton 4TWX5030A
Trane variable speed air handler model 4TEE3F31
EER 12.3
HSPF 8.8
18200 BTU but this configuration nets a higher High Heating 47 F BTU rating of2200

Lennox XP14-030
Lennox CBX32MV-030 variable speed air handler 
EER 12
HSPF 8.25
17000 BTU


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The 18200.

Cash doesn't make a difference to many companies.
Gotta show the IRS where the money came from to pay the employees.

to some it does.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

What is a good---no scratch that, better than good T-stat that is touch screen with
an illuminated backlite screen that is either soft blue or amber in color. I am color blind
so the green backlight with black text doesn't work so well for me.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

The White Rodgers touch screens are called True Blue and are good. Not sold at HDepot etc. Your installer should be able to get one from a supply house.
http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/common/ptech/thermo/thermo_03.htm


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## RibKing67 (Jan 17, 2009)

*Loud Motor*

I have a Lennox Heat pump that the Combustion Air Inducer motor is vibrationg and making a terrible sound. I searched the part down but all suppliers are out of stock. (just my luck) 

Is there an adjustment on this motor or fan blade or are the windings shot?? I do not mind replacing it provided I can find one but if anyone has an idea about this that would be helpfull I would appriciate it. 

Its a G50UH-36B-090 Lennox Part # 31L5501 
and Fasco Motor 7002-2975


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

It is a forced air furnace and not a heat pump for your info. Try Cozyparts.com

The unit comes together as a package and needs to be changed as such. You may also need a new pressure switch with it as the rating may have changed. Make sure they check on that also. I get my parts direct from Lennox and they do that for me.


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## Zenica (Jan 7, 2009)

Well I went with Home Depot. The contractor they sent me did a very thorough job from the Man-J to the 
use of nitrogen while brazing to running the new line set neatly along the wall and out of sight. They replaced
my duct work and tirelessly worked to resolve a noise that developed with the new wrapped duct that was not
there with the internally fiberglass lined old duct I had. They were conscience about cleaning up and made sure
it was working correctly. I gave them a tip at the end of the job because I felt they went above and beyond.

I chose the Trane XR14 mated to a variable speed Trane air handler with a White Rodgers touchscreen t-stat.
The system is very easy to use and operate. The information I learned here enabled me to hire the right contractor
and to assure myself that as I watched them, I could tell the difference between snake oil and compressor oil.

Thank you to everyone that contributed.


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