# Gable roof leak between plywood -PICS



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Missing shingle maybe? Bullet hole in roof? Go up top and look for the anomaly over the leak area. Get some of the same type shingles and remove the bad ones and replace witht he new ones.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Jeepers! I forgot to mention. It looks like you'll need to remove an area of about 6' wide and 5' up to replace that section of plywood before putting on the new shingles.


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

tinner666 said:


> Missing shingle maybe? Bullet hole in roof? Go up top and look for the anomaly over the leak area. Get some of the same type shingles and remove the bad ones and replace witht he new ones.


 no dont think so.. although i do live in florida, so anything is possible.
here is a pic of the roof, and the area in question is at the lower left. all looks fine to the naked eye except for a little dipping due to the ply's separating. sorry i would have centered the pic but i had this on my phone and im at work... I was planning on working on it tomorrow. is it possible its maybe coming through a nail hole? if so, can i glue or caulk the tiles around the area? it was easy to lift the tiles up when i went up there...

Thanks again for your advice so far!


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

tinner666 said:


> Jeepers! I forgot to mention. It looks like you'll need to remove an area of about 6' wide and 5' up to replace that section of plywood before putting on the new shingles.


 Yeah thats what i was afraid of is this an accurate description of what to do? http://www.alpharubicon.com/kids/roofrepairsjosephus.htm


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Those rafters sure look like there 24" on center, if they are they left out the H clips that support the plywood between the rafters to keep it from sagging.


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Those rafters sure look like there 24" on center, if they are they left out the H clips that support the plywood between the rafters to keep it from sagging.


Interesting! I didn't know what an H-clip was until now.. but i guess it's too late for that. i don't have the money for someone to come and do it for me but i have access to plenty of tools, and a will to do it. could you give me an idea? like a basic step 1- what ever? doesn't have to be too in-depth  i've looked all over youtube and google and cant find a step by step except for the link i listed above. and i dont know if that would work or is correct?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Not how I would do it, but correct enough. ( A homeowner seeing a contractor do it that way would have a 'fit', generally speaking.) Nothing wrong with it though.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You have way to much damage to do a scab job like that.
Use a flat bar and remove all the shingles in that area so you can see just how much needs to be replaced.
From that picture it looks like you have two sheets that are effected.


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

tinner666 said:


> Not how I would do it, but correct enough. ( A homeowner seeing a contractor do it that way would have a 'fit', generally speaking.) Nothing wrong with it though.


Thanks! ok hopefully last question. after pulling up the old shingles, should i cut out a square around the where i want to replace or does it matter? what im getting at is, when i finish replacing it and go to put felt paper on it, i know i'll have to start it underneath the old paper, but what about the sides of the paper? just glue em down?


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

joecaption said:


> You have way to much damage to do a scab job like that.
> Use a flat bar and remove all the shingles in that area so you can see just how much needs to be replaced.
> From that picture it looks like you have two sheets that are effected.


Yes it is on a seam... could i reuse most of the shingles or should i go ahead and use new ones?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I would replace the shingles you remove.
As long as the sides overlap at least 12" you will be fine.
The top goes under the old tar paper the bottom lays on top.


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I would replace the shingles you remove.
> As long as the sides overlap at least 12" you will be fine.
> The top goes under the old tar paper the bottom lays on top.


Thanks a lot for your help i really appreciate it wish me luck and dry weather tomorrow! ill try and take some pics.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

From what can be seen in the first pic, I would cut out 3 rafter spacings at minimum and possibly more that we can't see and whatever it takes to get to good sheathing plywood top to bottom. 

End the left to right cuts at a rafter and then sister a 2x4 nailer to those rafters for a nailing surface for the new sheathing. For lacing the new shingles in that area, it may pay for you to get experienced help with that or do a lot of research on how that's done.


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

Fairview said:


> From what can be seen in the first pic, I would cut out 3 rafter spacings at minimum and possibly more that we can't see and whatever it takes to get to good sheathing plywood top to bottom.
> 
> End the left to right cuts at a rafter and then sister a 2x4 nailer to those rafters for a nailing surface for the new sheathing. For lacing the new shingles in that area, it may pay for you to get experienced help with that or do a lot of research on how that's done.


Thanks, this may be the cheapest sounding way to go, cost wise...


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Measure the plywood thickness when replacing it. 3/8" (24/0) is the only one (unless you have a heavy snow load) requiring H-clips in plywood grades if 24"o.c. 7/16", 15/32", 1/2", 19/32", 5/8" do not. I'm guessing 1/2", very popular (and a lot cheaper) for 24"o.c. at that time, check for it. Building inspectors usually check for that... Just read the ink stamp: http://www.apawood.org/pablog/index...right-exposure-classification-of-plywood#more

http://www.apawood.org/pablog/index...n-are-Panel-Clips-Required-for-Roof-Sheathing

Gary


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## Tryskylife (Feb 4, 2012)

So, this is how it turned out  and again, thanks for everyone's input and direction!


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