# ceramic tile to wood floor threshold



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Typically when floor coverings transition they do so under the center of the door. They are not to be seen extending under a door. You could achieve this by installing a new transition piece.


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## bjs (Nov 18, 2008)

Good to know--thanks!:thumbup:

Here is another question:

The baseboards have been removed. Should the tile be cut flush with the existing drywall, then covered with the new baseboards, or should the baseboards be installed (or leave room for them) so the tile butts up to them, instead of under them?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

The tile should be cut 1/4" short of the wall to provide a gap for expansion. The baseboards then cover this gap. Do not grout against the wall, leave the gap open and hide it with the base.


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## bjs (Nov 18, 2008)

The baseboards will cover it by sitting on top of the tile, or slipping down between the tile and the wall...I guess I could go measure my baseboard!

You've saved us from some little mistakes that would have made a big difference, thank you!


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## seanJohn (Oct 3, 2008)

*Good to know*

Have a similar situation at hand, this tread came very handy. Tnx for the info.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> The baseboards will cover it by sitting on top of the tile, or slipping down between the tile and the wall...I guess I could go measure my baseboard!


Is that a question???

The *baseboard sits on top* of the tile and covers the gap. Your baseboard should be wider/thicker than 1/4" and should easily cover the gap.:yes:


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## bjs (Nov 18, 2008)

OOPS! Yes, that was a question...but it was also me realizing I could answer it myself.:icon_confused:

Ok, one last question...hopefully.

First, do a dry run with all of the tile, cut everything to fit, etc.

Then...thin set everything from rear to door...OR thin set everything except the edges, wait until dry, then go back to set the remaining pieces???

Thanks, again!


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

If THAT is what you are comfortable with then go for it but I wouldn't. I would establish the layout using the grid system of chalk lines then start deep in the room and install every tile as I backed my way out. That way it's done. You can cut as you go and unexpected changes in placement won't screw things up.


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## mattedfred (Oct 24, 2008)

if this is your first tile job i would plan the layout on paper, then measure the tiles you need to cut then cut them all making sure you have enough spares just in case. then mix the adhesive and lay the tile.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

I don't know why people want to dry lay AND cut tiles before hand, then go back and hope it all works out the same again. Why would you want to lay it twice? It's a good way to turn a one day project into two days or longer?

Jaz


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## bjs (Nov 18, 2008)

Okay then...we'll be getting started on Saturday. If I can figure out how to attach photos, I will.

Thanks for the info and the confidence to "go for it!"


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

> The tile should be cut 1/4" short of the wall to provide a gap for expansion.


Just curious....what exactly expands?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

EVERYTHING expands!


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

I was under the understanding that tile will stay put.
Any expansion from the product or subtrate would crack the tile or at least crack the grout.
I can see Ceramic expanding if it was frozen...but not from humidity......


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## mattedfred (Oct 24, 2008)

the wall may expand and if you butt the tile right against the wall or framing it may cause the tile to move


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

Ahhh yes.
I did not think of that.

thanks.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

EVERYTHING expands and contracts, EVERYTHING.:yes:

Install ceramic tile on a wood substrate in a south-facing room with plenty of sunlight....the potential for disaster is tremendous.

Florcraft if you get Tile Magazine (Nov 2008) read an article by Dave Gobis in that issue you may learn a thing or two. It may be online also.


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## Floorwizard (Dec 5, 2003)

I do not install over wood without Ditra or something that will keep expansion from affecting the tile.
But I get what you are saying...

thanks.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Installing over Ditra does not eliminate the need for expansion joints around the perimeter OR in the field if the area is large enough. 

Jaz


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## tishimself (Nov 18, 2008)

*Expansion with hardie board*

If you install hardie over underlayment with modified thinset, doesn't the thinset fill in the expansion joints that were between the underlayment seams? I'm getting ready to do this and I have a tile job with a southern exposure getting alot of light from a patio door. Thanks for all the great info.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> If you install hardie over underlayment with modified thinset, doesn't the thinset fill in the expansion joints that were between the underlayment seams?


Not if you caulk the seams first.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

You should treat all the seams, (subfloor, underlayment and CBU as directed by the thinset and CBU manufacturers. Some want you to keep thinset out of the underlayment seams, while others want you to fill them. Filling those seams will not necessarily prevent those seams from compressing, they will compress with latex modified thinset in there.

You're still supposed to install expansion joints in the field in all installations if they're large enough or under certain conditions such as direct sunlight and wet rooms. Expansion joints are placed in the CBU and directly over it in the tile.

Until a few years ago Hardie used to tell us to install an expansion joint in the center of any room both ways if the room was 15 ft. or larger in any direction, and where the room makes an "L". This was rarely done since most people didn't have or didn't read the directions anyway. Today's directions don't even bring up the subject of field expansion joints. Touchy subject I'm sure. 

tishimself, that type of installation requires additional joints every 8-12 ft. in both directions.

Jaz


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## Dan V. (Oct 29, 2008)

bjs,

To get back to your original question, as Bud said, you should tile to the center of the door jamb. Rather than a grout joint here, leave approx. 1/2" space and install a nice piece of T-molding or some other transition piece. Also, make sure you undercut the jambs with an undercut saw. Stack a piece of underlayment and a tile on the floor next to the jamb and rest your saw on this as you cut. This will give you a perfect height cut under the jamb that you can slide your tile under. Gives it a finished professional look.

Good luck!


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