# Metal door frame strike plate



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Can you get a couple more posts and put up a picture.

Where is it missing?


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## Aleksey79 (May 20, 2017)

Thanks for a quick response! Here is the photo of the strike plate. I can't feel any screws inside the door frame (thinking maybe screw heads were just painted over) and as you can see there are no visible screws.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Screws are painted over.

If it is just requiring a bit of a push to get it closed, chip away the paint and see if you can replace that strike plate with an adjustable unit.


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## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

Or you could file the edge of the plate that the latch is catching on. Hand metal file or a rotary file in a hand drill.


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## Aleksey79 (May 20, 2017)

Windows on Wash said:


> Screws are painted over.
> 
> If it is just requiring a bit of a push to get it closed, chip away the paint and see if you can replace that strike plate with an adjustable unit.


Thanks, but unfortunately a bit of a push is not going to work. Its misaligned vertically. I would need to remove quarter of an inch down to get it to close. If you look very closely you can even notice marks how far I need to go.

Also, if screws are painted over how come I dont feel them from inside the frame when I put my little finger thru the opening?


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Aleksey79 said:


> Thanks, but unfortunately a bit of a push is not going to work. Its misaligned vertically. I would need to remove quarter of an inch down to get it to close. If you look very closely you can even notice marks how far I need to go.
> 
> Also, if screws are painted over how come I dont feel them from inside the frame when I put my little finger thru the opening?


Your door is probably sagging/settled. Can you snap a picture of the hinge side so we can see the gap between the door and jamb from top to bottom. 

You can't feel screw because they are going into the wood jamb.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Wonder if the top hinge pin needs to be replaced?
Or the hinge screws tightened?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

If it is that far off, something has settled seriously or a hinge is worn out.


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## Aleksey79 (May 20, 2017)

The door frame is metal and hollow (see photo). There is no wood whatsoever. And here is a picture of the hinge side. I know it is misaligned but it looks much bigger undertaking than fixing the strike plate.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Change the top hinge and I will bet the issue goes away. Actually, change them both out. Chances are the bottom one is worn as well.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

^

And make sure the screws are tight. Use one long one in top to adjust it. You might need a long one in the bottom too if something binds after tightening the top. Adjusting doors can be a bit of an art.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Sometimes when I run across this I get out my RA grinder and thin the latch to fit the strike plate.
I am not suggesting this is the most correct way. Just simple, fast, and effective.
Make sure all your hinges are tight first


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

I see the jamb is steel too, like a commercial unit. Probably all one piece. Adjust the door, it's not that hard and it will operate way better.


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## Aleksey79 (May 20, 2017)

Thank you everyone for the responses. I've been doing some more research and talking to people in Home Depot and other hardware stores. I also spoke to some businesses and their prices are a bit high and not worth it or some even suggested to replace the frame altogether which I think is a scam and unreasonable. As for me I still think that adjusting the door is outside of my comfort zone.

On the other hand extending the strike plate opening seems very much doable if only I can understand how this strike plate is attached to the frame, if not part of the frame, and ensure I do not somehow brake the frame. :vs_worry: 

I've been trying to find some drawings of steel door frames and types of strike plates and how they attach. The only thing I could find is the strike plate attached with screws but I chipped off some paint and still don't see any screw heads. 

Is it possible that the whole frame already comes with the strike plate as one piece? Does anyone know any good resources that cover metal door frame types and construction that I could read and research?

Thanks again!


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Since you are confident there are no screws holding the latch plate, it is most likely spot welded on. Meaning you are not going to remove it with out destroying it.

Simple things first - have you tightened all the hinge screws? After tightening
show us a picture of the space along the top of the door.


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## Aleksey79 (May 20, 2017)

Thanks! Tried to tighten it up. Its all tight and door does not play and feels sturdy. I have also attached the picture of the door.

I have also measured the opening and its slightly larger on the top - about 1/4 of an inch.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The last picture (post #10) shows a difference of reveal from the top and the bottom of the hinge side. If you pick up on the door using the knobs I'll bet there's all kinds of slop in that upper hinge. Doing that should tell you if there's a problem with the hinge itself or if it's just how well the hinge is attached.

More times than not removing a couple of screws from the top hinge into the frame and replacing them with 2-1/2 - 3" deck screws will 'suck things up' and solve the problem.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I agree with quickfish for the next step, remove 2 screws in the top hinge, jamb side and replace with 3" deck screws or equal. Hopefully you catch a wall stud and pull the door back over. This will lift the door and get your latch closer in the strike plate.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Yodaman said:


> I agree with quickfish for the next step, remove 2 screws in the top hinge, jamb side and replace with 3" deck screws or equal. .


That is my 'first step' the majority of the time.


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## Mikeron (Jan 5, 2015)

Aleksey79 said:


> Thanks, but unfortunately a bit of a push is not going to work. Its misaligned vertically. I would need to remove quarter of an inch down to get it to close. If you look very closely you can even notice marks how far I need to go.
> 
> Also, if screws are painted over how come I dont feel them from inside the frame when I put my little finger thru the opening?


Sometimes the screws are not very long less than a 1/4 inch and thats why you cant feel them on the inside.

Sent from my SM-J320P using Tapatalk


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## GrayHair (Apr 9, 2015)

I agree that the problem is the door sagging in the opening (not square in the frame) and not latching is a symptom of that problem. I always found it best to cure the problem rather than just treat the symptom.

The strike you have is common in older metal frames; particularly residential. That type of strike is 2.75 x 1.125 (2 3/4" x 1 1/8") today, not including the lip. Some older strikes were close, but still different sizes. They are generally attached with undercut flathead 8-32 machine screws, although I rarely saw some riveted to the frame.

Your strike is heavily painted and that is probably hiding the screw heads (amazing what 40 coats of paint will hide). Aggressive probing with a scratch awl or good dental pick should open the slot/cross (#2 Phillips if a cross) for the screwdriver. *This link* will take you to a picture if you want to judge screw locations. 

Clean the slot/cross for the screwdriver as well as possible. Hold the driver tightly in place, apply counter-clockwise turning pressure and smack the head of the screwdriver with a hammer; all you want to do is break the screw loose. If the screw turns at all, the impact has done its job. Too much hammering or too heavy a blow will bend the mounting tabs and possibly the frame (you don't want either).

As an alternative, once you've located the screw heads, you can use a hammer and good scratch awl to break the screws loose.

*A word about the screws.* Because strikes are relatively thin, the heads of the screws have to be undercut to seat against the strike, hold it tight and sit flush with the surface of the strike. For door hardware, the undercut is much more pronounced that what is shown below,







​ This size strike uses 8-32 machine screws (larger strikes used 12-24 machine screws) and the head of both must be undercut. A big box store MAY have these screws, but a good locksmith will definitely have them (get on the phone, many locksmiths are strictly mobile today and you are looking for one with a storefront shop). The locksmith may have "8 8-32 x 3/4" screws which are combination wood (the first 8) and machine (the 8-32) screws, 3/4" long, which will work just fine.

If you replace the strike, I would suggest one made of brass; not just brass plated. Much easier to file, if you have to.


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