# Which drywall compound should I use?



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

yummy mummy said:


> I am wondering what type of compound I should use, and which would be the easiest to for me.


Use a ready-mix compound in a 5 gallon bucket. A General Purpose compound is fine. USG or other. If it is thick in it's consistency, add about 1/2 cup water and mix in using a mixing paddle and drill. Paddles are found in the drywall dept. of Home Improvement stores and resemble a Plaster mixing paddle. The consistency for "ease-of-use" should be like "soft-serve" icecream.



yummy mummy said:


> Also, I have found that in some joints I didn't measure really well, so in a couple of places I have a somewhat larger gap than I think I should have.
> Do I fill this in with compound first and make it smooth and flat and then add the tape? Is it the same compound or do I use something different.


Yes. Use the same compound. Allow the "fill-in" to dry and tape over. Tho, you can do it at the same time as taping. I note that it would be better to allow the "fill-in" to dry first, because the compound will "sag" or "droop" a little when added into larger cracks or spaces. Applying it and allowing it to dry first, gives you the opportunity to "scrape" the lump (created by the compound's sagging) flat. Then you can apply the tape onto a smooth and even seam surface.



yummy mummy said:


> Also, I have a small soffit in the ceiling, I guess I need to put the corner "thingies" (are they called corner beading?)


Yes, that is what they are called.



yummy mummy said:


> Do you also put the tape folded in half where the ceiling meets the soffit in the corners?


Yes, you do those corners.


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## UBoiler (Nov 7, 2007)

We use Sheetrock brand green bucket 4 taping and small less than quarter inch cracks and don't leave ridges because it's not made 2 be dry sanded and it's miserable 2 sand. We use their blue bucket 4 feathering coats because it dries quickly and specifically made 2 be sanded. Be sure use similar right products. Also when mixing your mud try 2 keep from adding air to mix. Slower speed is best and feel free to mix mud in tray with your knife by cutting the air bubbles or pockets. What I know & 5 bucks might get you a good cup of coffee some where. Good luck. Cliff


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## localtradesman (Oct 27, 2007)

*Make sure...*

All I have to say....is make sure you pull your mud tight for your screw holes. And do them three times.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks everyone for your help.

Also, if I need to cut the tape can I just cut it with scissors and then can I but the other piece to it, or are you allowed to "overlap" tape?

If I don't use all the mud and I have to stop taping, can I save it in a plastic container with a lid on it?


After taping, do the seams shrink as the mud dries? If so, how can I avoid this? 

Is there a way of taping where you can avoid sanding? (Just dreaming right now) :laughing:


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## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

Yes you can cut the tape with scissors or push your taping knife against the wall over the tape and tear it cleanly. [saves time] 

Overlapping an inch or two to avoid gaps is cool. 

I wouldnt save mud in the orginal container.. It should always be virgin. Keep the lid closed all the time and clean off the insides of the bucket down to the mud level with an old wet sponge. Dried stuff on the sides of the bucket will fall down into your new mud. 

You can try saving extra in a butter tub if you have leftovers. Best is always plan ahead and dont pull out too much. Leave your screwheads and small areas til last to run out your mud pan.

The thicker your mud coat, the more shrinkage/cracking so thinner, multiple coats are best. 

Finishing drywall takes time to learn so you'll have some sanding [with a mask YM] but you'll get there. Dont try and make it perfect on the first pass. Each coat with a wider knife will get smoother.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks Sammy for your help.

Do you really have to coat the screws 3 times? Is it necessary?

And do you have to sand after every coat, either on drywall or screw heads?


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## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

Your welcome...

Three coats is normal.. Ya dont want things showing thru after ya start painting. 

Maybe a light sanding between coats just to knock down any high areas if any... 

Depends on how good you are as to how much sanding needs to be done!

[I sand alot]


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Sammy said:


> Your welcome...
> 
> Three coats is normal.. Ya dont want things showing thru after ya start painting.
> 
> ...


 
If you sand a lot, I'll be sanding forever........ :laughing:


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## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

Thats the first thing my wife says when I pick up a bucket of drywall mud.. 

MORE DUST?!

I always say I'm gonna buy one of those drywall sander vacum attachments....


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## leezarrd (Aug 12, 2007)

I have heard of "wet sanding"... not sure what that means. Anybody know?


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## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

Thats just running lightly over your drywall with a damp [not wet sponge] which works well on your final coat to feather in any spots.


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## BigJimmy (Jun 30, 2006)

Sammy said:


> Thats the first thing my wife says when I pick up a bucket of drywall mud..
> 
> MORE DUST?!
> 
> I always say I'm gonna buy one of those drywall sander vacum attachments....


Sammy and Yummy-

I'm not a pro by any means but I've done a copious amount of drywall and people tell me that my finishing looks good (aw shucks) so I think I've got it down for an heavy-duty DIYer.

The biggest mistake a first timer can make is sanding too much and too early. I used to go at it right after the 1st coat dried and often, I'd wind up sanding the facing off the sheet rock or uncovering my tape. And Sammy's right; the sanding creates dust that will make its way into every (and I mean EVERY) nook, cranny, crack in every room in the house (I think drywall dust is actually classified as a gas :laughing: ). My advise is this (for whatever it's worth):

1. Do the taping and mudding and then walk away. I used to screw around with things at this point, adding more mud here, dragging clunkers through otherwise fine joints, catching and raising the embedded tape with my knife all to a song of wonderfully crafted expletives. Then one day, in fear that the entire family would start talking like long shoreman, my wife came in and said "LEAVE IT. IT LOOKS FINE. STOP F***ING WITH IT (See?)!" And I did. And when I returned the next day, I thought, hey, this looks _does_ look fine!

2. Once the first coat had dried, take your 6 inch knife and knock down all the ridges. Don't sand. You'll find that you can pretty much prepare all but the worst blemishes with the knife alone and you'll create 1/100th the mess. Remember, as you feather your 2nd coat, it should be about 1/8" at the thickest and this will naturally coincide with where the first coat is. Therein, even some minor grooves/voids will cover nicely.

3. Between the 2nd and 3rd, I do the same. No sanding, just knocking things down with the knife.

4. At the very end, once everything is done and dried, that's when I sand as necessary. And I've found that you can get approximately dust-free sanding if you use a shop vacuum fitted with a filter bag. Use this in conjunction with a sanding screen holder that is designed to attach to the vac (you may need to buy a smaller diameter hose and an adapter as I did. The smaller/lighter hose makes it much easier when working over your head). The thingy that holds the screens is very inexpensive. On the other hand, if your 3rd coat looks good, you can also wet sand as explained in a previous thread. When you do either, use a shop light to illuminate the wall; it will make the imperfections easy to see.

I imagine the Pro's may disagree but this is what I've found works well for me through experience.

Good luck!
Jimmy


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks bigjimmy for your advise.

I guess it's practice, practice, practice with taping.


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## BigJimmy (Jun 30, 2006)

yummy mummy said:


> Thanks bigjimmy for your advise.
> 
> I guess it's practice, practice, practice with taping.


I can't agree more. But then again, you seem like you're quite the DIYer so you should do just fine!:wink: BTW, is the background in your picture your latest project?

TTFN,
Jimmy


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

BigJimmy said:


> I can't agree more. But then again, you seem like you're quite the DIYer so you should do just fine!:wink: BTW, is the background in your picture your latest project?
> 
> TTFN,
> Jimmy


Yes, the project in the back is my basement when I had just started framing it, last year.

I like DIY projects as they are some what of an escape from what I normally do. (I have psych. degree).
And it's mindless work. 

Hopefully, I will do ok with taping. I'm really not looking to get it perfect, but hopefully, presentable.

Thanks.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The trick to taping is to use minimal amounts of compound. Because the more you put on, the more you will need to sand off. They now make a compound that minimizes dust in the air as you sand. It just falls to the ground. As a novice taper you might try the adhesive mesh tape. You can tape the whole room and then apply the compound. It has the added benifit of eliminating dry spots where you press too hard and squeeze out all the compound. When it dries, the paper pops out like a bubble.
Ron


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