# mud or primer first?



## Briks (Feb 26, 2012)

I pulled off the paneling in my third bedroom and its plastered underneath, covered in glue and crumbling off in some places. i got most the glue off and planned to just skim coat the whole room with mud because the walls are pretty messed up now, but my friend said to prime first, then mud. he says that because the plaster is really smooth the mud won't stick to it, but primer will stick to anything. is this true?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If it's that bad I'd just remove the plaster and go over it with new drywall for a flater finished surface.
Ever done skim coating before? Not an esy job to do right and a whole lot of dust to get it right.


----------



## Dierte (Jan 23, 2011)

Briks said:


> I pulled off the paneling in my third bedroom and its plastered underneath, covered in glue and crumbling off in some places. i got most the glue off and planned to just skim coat the whole room with mud because the walls are pretty messed up now, but my friend said to prime first, then mud. he says that because the plaster is really smooth the mud won't stick to it, but primer will stick to anything. is this true?


Nope. I skimmed my entire garage last year. Mud over plaster. No issues.


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i find when skimming on painted existing drywall/plaster thats been painted the mud wont stick to it properly and get bad pinning. the only way i found that works it applying mud on then scrap as much as you can off and then go about applying your mud like normal. but for a whole room that would be a nightmare. the primer may correct this you dont have much to lose if you do prime. i say go for it and i'd like to hear if that actually works.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Skim-coated my 1910 plaster and lath walls/ceilings in the whole house, never had a problem, 36 years later now. Be sure to wash/TSP the walls first, fill any holes/gouges with hot (chemical dry) mud. Water spritz the sides of large shallowed-out hole so the dry plaster doesn't pull the water from the new and you will get a good bond. Use a bonder, if needed: http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/old-plaster-questions.html

Gary


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yep, the key is a clean surface for the mud to adhere to....


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

joecaption said:


> If it's that bad I'd just remove the plaster and go over it with new drywall for a flater finished surface.
> Ever done skim coating before? Not an esy job to do right and a whole lot of dust to get it right.


 
Well, yes, you would:laughing:


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

chrisn said:


> Well, yes, you would:laughing:


Not to perpetuate the joke or further encourage Joe? I would reframe the walls and maybe redo the foundation and roof too. Is the lawn alright, you might want to replant that? I am a sailor (wish I were a pirate) but I have seen so many situations like yours resulting from the Jag not being tuned and the twin engines on your cigarette boat with injectors clogged. Fix those before skim coating. Actually don't bother. Just sink the boat and drive the Jag over a cliff. Your wall will then skim coat and prime itself. I promise! :laughing:

If you got the adhesive residue off and the walls are clean, you are good to go with your skim coat. I tend to like using plaster for plaster but I really have no strong argument for this anymore but tradition and training. I guess I would use a hot mix drywall compound rather than bucket stuff for this. Or, as hinted, plaster. You will not be trowling it on but make sure you have a nice wide and long blade and decent drywall/plaster pan. 

I would, as suggested in another post, grind away with a sander and say 80, 60 or even 40 grit paper to get a nice surface to which you can apply any material. Trust me you will not notice the gouges the size of the Grand Canyon once you prime and finish. So long as you never apply flat luster paint, which will show handprints and you cannot wash. Ever

Seriously. If there is a chance you have residue, you might prime first with Gardz or something. 

Just remember your goal in all this is surface repair and adhesion and the more you mix and layer things up? You ask for problems you do not need and will not have just keeping it simple. When you can. 

KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid) thinking really does work?

I think. :wink:


----------



## Briks (Feb 26, 2012)

thanks for the help peeps. i went ahead and primed it with killz a couple days ago, and it is being skimmed right now. ill post any issues i run into for future reference


----------

