# stone veneer fireplace



## Stretch5 (Dec 28, 2009)

I was wondering if anyone had detailed knowledge on veneering? What i mean is that i have heard differing ways to go about it. Ive heard tar paper and mesh and ive heard rock board. Also which materials i use like is there a certain mortar to use or one that works better, etc. Ive searched on other sites and this one and have come up short on details. If anyone has a link or topic that i can use it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

PS If there is a better subforum for this to be in please let me know...


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

you can get all your answers here if you ask specific questions. This post is a bit open ended? More information can be found at http://www.concretenetwork.com/?p=Websites
Tips:
With veneer stone you work from the top down to avoid staining the stones below with mortar droppings
Thinset works best but is more costly and as such pros would use Type N or Type S mortar. We mix our own to get the desired consistency to balance strength and stickiness.
Tar paper would only be used if the substrate was wood
Mesh is only needed if these are heavy stones.

So you will see different opinions because you are not giving details of your installation parameters.


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## Stretch5 (Dec 28, 2009)

sorry about the open post. I should have given more detail. The framing will be new so i have the option of metal studs or wood. Im going floor to ceiling so i will have framing above the fireplace. The stone I am using is Owens Cultured Stone ledgestone. Im going for a dry lay look (no mortar joints). thanks for the link also.

Thanks again


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Easier with wood studs in your case. Then 1/2" cement backer board. No wire mesh is needed. Use thinset to set your stones. 1/2" square notched trowel and back butter each stone.


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## Stretch5 (Dec 28, 2009)

awesome!!! thats the information i was looking for. I really appreciate it. Ill let you know how it works and looks


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## Stretch5 (Dec 28, 2009)

so i went to order the stone and the rep that i talked to said that Owens suggests tar paper and mesh with a mortar mix. He said that they (Owens Corning) wouldnt back their product if anything went wrong if i didnt follow their install steps. I personally would prefer to take the word of somebody that does this work for a living than the company's but i would like some opinions non the less.
thanks


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## NJ Brickie (Mar 4, 2009)

Thinset directly on concrete backer board:thumbsup:.


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## ralphfravel (Jan 5, 2009)

I built a very similar fireplace using 1/2" durock cement board and thinset mortar with no tar paper or wire mesh. It worked very well. One important difference though is that I used a veneer stone which is actual stone, as contrasted with what I think you're using... a cultured stone product cast from concrete. Mine was also a dry stack. The product I used was from Natural Stone Veneer International (http://www.nsvi.com/stones.iml?Cat=15). Since it is a natural stone and not subject to "contamination" from mortar dropping on it, the company recommends building from the bottom up rather than from the top down as recommended for cultured stone. I found the bottom up method to make a lot more sense and seemed easier to me. Check the particular cultured stone you are using to see if the coloring goes all the way through the product or is just a surface coat. If just a surface coat, be very careful to not scratch through the surface . Good luck with your project.


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## Stretch5 (Dec 28, 2009)

thanks for the replies. I just had a thought about my fireplace. Can i veneer directly over the brick of the existing fireplace or should i put backer board on it? I guess i just figured that the brick had enough texture to hold the thinset and stone.


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## ralphfravel (Jan 5, 2009)

I don't have any direct experience here, but... it seems to me that the existing brick may not provide a good surface for thinset to grab on to due to accumulated dirt and oils (no judgement about how clean you're keeping your home. It's just that a lot of "stuff" piles up on surfaces over the years). Depending on what type of brick surface you have, it may not be smooth enough to make the top layer of stone look good. And finally, I've never seen in any manufacturer's instructions the recommendation to apply their product over existing bricks.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

yes you can veneer directly to the brick


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## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

Depending upon the brick, you can thinset directly to it. There are some brick that are glazed and too slick to provide adhesion, but they are relatively scarce.

Owens Corning's advice only pertains to an exterior application over wood. I would not worry too much about them backing the product anyway, since they do not warranty the installation in any way shape or form. They ONLY warranty that the stone itself will not crumble to dust (and it will not).

As stated start at the top, do the corners first and work to the center and down. Hide any cuts in the field, and make sure that cut ends are facing away from the most visible lines of site.


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## Stretch5 (Dec 28, 2009)

thanks guys. i ordered the stone today so i have plenty of time to hash out all of the details before it goes up. the veneer is all new to me. i work with the real stuff buildings walls outside. its definitely a hole to different ball game. thanks again for the replies and patience.


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