# Cement board around fireplace opening?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That mantle might over power the room---how deep is it from the face of the legs to the back side?

The back of the unit must touch the drywall in the room----so therefore the new brick must be flush with the wall board in the room??

A few more details needed---Mike-----


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Did you have a sweep look this fireplace over before doing all this?
An old one like that may very well need a liner.
You do know an open fireplace like that without an insert will tend to suck the heat out of the other rooms for make up air and will give out very little heat, right?
Plus all the soot and dirt brought in.


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## MedicMatt (Mar 31, 2013)

oh'mike said:


> That mantle might over power the room---how deep is it from the face of the legs to the back side?
> 
> The back of the unit must touch the drywall in the room----so therefore the new brick must be flush with the wall board in the room??
> 
> ...


The mantle legs are 11" deep and the unit 15" deep at the deepest point of the top of the mantle itself. 

The room is 24 feet deep from the wall the mantle will be on to the back of the room. The place where you see the wall on the left come toward the center of the room is where there were some old built-in cabinets. We will be installing a built-in bench with storage there. Much the same as the picture provided. 

The manufacturer's installation instruction say to secure the unit directly to the drywall. There is a space in the back of the top mantle where a 2x4 fits. The 2x4 is secured to studs through the drywall and the mantle sits over that. Of course, it is also suggested that the top and legs be additionally secured to the studs using a metal strapping. 

I hope I was clear. If you have any other questions or need further clarification, please ask. I will try my best to answer.


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## MedicMatt (Mar 31, 2013)

joecaption said:


> Did you have a sweep look this fireplace over before doing all this?
> An old one like that may very well need a liner.
> You do know an open fireplace like that without an insert will tend to suck the heat out of the other rooms for make up air and will give out very little heat, right?
> Plus all the soot and dirt brought in.


The chimney was cleaned. It was updated 10 years ago per the previous owner (original owner). It is plumbed with gas and honestly, we will likely almost never use it, keeping the flue closed thus sealing it (mostly) from outside air. 

It never really gets cold enough here where we would rely on the fire place for any significant heating of our home. 

This is my first home and I have never done most of this kind of work before. (My only building experience was just out of high school when helped a contractor friend with framing. I also operated a skip loader doing house pads and finish grades for a short time before Medic school. 

Any advice is appreciated but please be patient with me. 

Thanks.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Just for safety sake--of installing the brick and as a fire stop--Id use drywall outside of the mantle and cement board inside it----hide the transition with the mantle----


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## MedicMatt (Mar 31, 2013)

oh'mike said:


> Just for safety sake--of installing the brick and as a fire stop--Id use drywall outside of the mantle and cement board inside it----hide the transition with the mantle----


Thanks. That is what I was thinking. Do you (or does anyone else) have any suggestions on securing cement board to the brick? The surface of the brick is uneven and I do not want to add any depth by adding furring. 

Thanks


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Thinset and Tapcon Screws------

You may need to chisel off some of the highest bricks----


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## MedicMatt (Mar 31, 2013)

oh'mike said:


> Thinset and Tapcon Screws------
> 
> You may need to chisel off some of the highest bricks----


Thanks, I'll try that. I appreciate the advice.


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