# No Heat Gas Dryer



## Hemingway (Feb 18, 2009)

I know! This has been asked and answered repeatedly, and I've read ALL the responses on all of the DIY websites, and followed ALL the advice given.

Whirlpool gas dryer model #LGR7646JQ0. Dryer runs but burner never comes on.

I have cleaned all of the venting, but it was already fairly ****-n-span. 

I viewed the gas valve through the window on the front, and the ignitor never illuminates.

I replaced the Ignitor and the Radiant Sensor. Idiot. $75. Still no heat.

I checked for continuity with the ohm meter (removing leads from terminals first) the holding and boosting coil (solenoid), the secondary coil, the igniter, the radiant sensor (in case I bought a bad unit), the high limit thermostat, and the disposable, one time Thermal fuse located on the blower wheel cover. The resistance readings on the coils are correct according to my research: On the coil with three terminals I got a reading of 1365 ohms between terminals 1 and 2, a reading of 560 ohms between terminals 1 and 3. The coil with two terminals had a resistance of 1220 ohms. On all the other parts the ohm meter's needle swung all the way around to zero. 

I have not checked voltage, but like I said, the motor is running. I'm not sure how to check to see if the full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. I mean, I have a multimeter but I've never used it to check voltage. If I had explicit directions I could try that.

The only other thing that I didn't check is the Gas Valve armature, which shouldn't need replacing.

_Edited to add:

It has been suggested that I pull the Gas Valve as a unit, that I can't diagnose it myself, and take it into my appliance store for testing. It is a bugger to get loose. I checked back here tonight hoping I wouldn't have to do this. No such luck.

Edit #2:

__The Appliance guy said it wouldn't do much good to try to bring in the valve as he doesn't have a test bench that can reproduce normal operation, and it probably isn't the valve itself anyway. More likely something weird like a wiring problem, which is something they would check on an on-site visit, and the charge isn't usually much more than $150. But since I can't be home during the day and don't have an extra $100 for labor, I'd still like to try to diagnose this myself. Stubborn, yes._


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## Hemingway (Feb 18, 2009)

Hemingway said:


> I have not checked voltage, but like I said, the motor is running. I'm not sure how to check to see if the full line voltage is available to both the igniter and the booster coil. I mean, I have a multimeter but I've never used it to check voltage. If I had explicit directions I could try that.


Okay, I figured out how to use the voltmeter, including the lesson on how much easier it is to puncture my thumb than the wire when backprobing. Good thing it was a red wire! 

According to the schematic, the timer is first in line to the gas ignitor. The voltmeter shows current out of every line except the line to the ignitor, which is why the motor runs but the heat doesn't. 

Now to see what it would take to replace / repair...


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## refrman0 (Mar 14, 2009)

heres a hint.......listen for an audible click at the gas valve....make sure u are in a heat select mode...if you dont hear it...you could have a bad operating thermostat or safety thermostat not letting 120 volts get to your gas valve it sounds like youre not getting any voltage to your gas valve...hope that helps


Hemingway said:


> I know! This has been asked and answered repeatedly, and I've read ALL the responses on all of the DIY websites, and followed ALL the advice given.
> 
> Whirlpool gas dryer model #LGR7646JQ0. Dryer runs but burner never comes on.
> 
> ...


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## Hemingway (Feb 18, 2009)

The solution was a bit of an oddball... using the voltmeter I traced it back to the timer switch. Took it out, lubricated the switch (trick I learned from a short in my stereo) dial, reseated all the connectors, and it now works!


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## Hemingway (Feb 18, 2009)

Hemingway said:


> I traced it back to the timer switch [...] and it now works!


Here we are three months later and she is complaining about the dryer not getting clothes dry. I checked the flame... nice and blue. I checked the vent, outlet, and blower for lint... nice and clean. 

I'm guessing the timer switch again... maybe it is in an intermittent failure mode?


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## crawdoogie (Nov 9, 2008)

Even if your vent is clear it may be that the internal ductwork is clogged. Check and clean out the exhaust duct and blower wheel. Even a small reduction in air flow can cause the hi-limit thermostat to detect an overheat an shut the heat source off. The following website has some good info:

http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_13.asp

Good luck
Doug


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