# Building a deck, attached or freestanding?



## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

NewHomeDIYGuy said:


> I'm looking to build a deck ~9' off the ground... 19'wide and 16' deep/long.
> Would you choose a freestanding deck or an attached deck?


Is this a trick question? 



> The reasoning for not using a ledgerboard...


Your reasons aside... the local inspector is the one to ask if it would be allowed.

hth


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## abracaboom (Dec 27, 2011)

A free standing deck will need diagonal braces on all four sides to keep it from racking, and you won't be able to access it from your house without a gang-planck. Usually the point of building a deck at that height is so you can walk to it from the second floor of your house. That's usually done by turning a window into a door. If the ledger is installed properly with flashing, it shouldn't be a problem.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Free standing when ever possible. Use 6 X 6's not 4 X 4's.
You do have a permit and any associations involved permission?
make sure the deck comes out at least 4" below any door openings.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

Tarheelterp,

Nope, wasn't a trick question.. I'm weighing all the different factors (cost, longevity, etc), and trying to decide what's worth it. One contractor I got for an estimate gave me an estimate for a freestanding, and said he much preferred that, but I have limited first hand knowledge with decks (minus all the reading I've been doing recently :laughing.

It is "legal" for me to use a ledgerboard for my county, and all/the majority of my neighbors use ledgerboards, but I'm considering the extra cost/space for the posts if it's really "worth it." Thanks for your input!


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

abracaboom,

I have an existing sliding glass door that is blocked off on the outside that goes out to the second level. It's a townhouse, and many neighbors have decks attached via ledger boards (I don't have any deck currently). So with a freestanding deck you can't build it right next to the house and walk out to it..?

joecaption,

I'm doing everything "properly" which is why I'm asking here. I got approval for the size/dimensions/etc. of the deck from the HOA, and I've already read about all the specs/requirements for building the deck in my county, like pulling the permit, and inspections. I really just wanted opinions from folks on the ledgerboard vs. freestanding option. I'm just unsure on which is the way to go as some people say ledgerboard is good, and some say to do freestanding.. The vast majority of townhouses in my neighborhood are all attached (in fact I don't think I've seen a freestanding one), but if they're really not the best choice, why are they so prevalent?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've made a ton of money having to go back and redo walls, bottom plates, siding, mud sills from decks attached to the side of houses done wrong.
To the post that claims you would need a gang plank my guess is he's never seen a free standing deck.
Looks the same as any other deck except there's just another set of post set near the foundation and the framing is cantileavered near but not touching the house. The deck boards need to be held back about 1/2 from the siding for drainage.
http://www.decks.com/deckbuilding/Free_Standing_Decks


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

attached to the house with proper flashing will be your best bet looks better and like you said I have been doing contracting 30 yrs from pa to nc ..never seen any freestanding....all attached to ledgerboard...just my thougth for what its worth....ben


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## abracaboom (Dec 27, 2011)

joecaption said:


> To the post that claims you would need a gang plank my guess is he's never seen a free standing deck.


I just liked the idea of a gang plank. I have built two of those myself. Not worth it, in my opinion, if the ledger is installed properly.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

At least 50% of my work has been remodeling and repair work.
At least twice a year were having to go behind a builder that did an attached deck years ago and there was massive damage to the home.
Done right there fine, done wrong and it's going to not be pretty.
Never once have we had to work on a home with a free standing one.
If for some reason I have to do an attached deck I use PVC lumber as a spacer so the ledger is not tight up againt the house to allow water to drain, not just lay there rotting out the top of the ledger and the side of the house.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

joecaption said:


> At least 50% of my work has been remodeling and repair work.
> At least twice a year were having to go behind a builder that did an attached deck years ago and there was massive damage to the home.
> Done right there fine, done wrong and it's going to not be pretty.
> Never once have we had to work on a home with a free standing one.
> If for some reason I have to do an attached deck I use PVC lumber as a spacer so the ledger is not tight up againt the house to allow water to drain, not just lay there rotting out the top of the ledger and the side of the house.


 thats what I am saying done right...oh I get it done right there fine....yes fine for a long time....


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## CoconutPete (Jan 22, 2010)

I built mine free standing and I love the way it came out. It sits about 6" below the door because of snow buildup etc. Of course my deck is 30" off the ground so no cross bracing needed for me.

No need for a gang plank - whatever the heck that is. Is that like in the pirate days when they used to "walk the plank"?


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

If a deck isn't attached to the house, you may not need a permit for it. Just a thought.


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## cbrc5eric (Mar 15, 2010)

As mentioned by others, check the local codes. In the town I live in, you're not allowed to attach the deck to the house.


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## robertcdf (Nov 12, 2005)

I'll chime in with DONE PROPERLY there is nothing wrong with a ledger attachment. Windows can leak if not installed properly but people continue to put them in... Lets think a little bit about what we are saying instead of just parroting what we've heard in the past.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

if the ledger is properly flashed, via having 12" blueskin behind hte ledger and a metal cap flashing on top of it you'll be find. 

now if your in a high wind region and have a freestanding deck your in for problems. im directly on the coast, 10 years ago it was common to see the odd free standing deck around. but in 2003 we were hit with a huge hurricane which trashed half the city. at this point many freestanding decks literally blew away or blew over. because of this codes changed, as of january 2004 freestanding decks are no longer permitted if they are higher than 2 ft off the ground. otherwise they must be attached to the structure via a ledger and the posts must be anchored to concrete piers


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

woodworkbykirk said:


> if the ledger is properly flashed, via having 12" blueskin behind hte ledger and a metal cap flashing on top of it you'll be find.


Thanks for all the info/opinions guys. I think I'm going to go with an attached deck for the simple reason of cost/simplicity. I was originally looking to have stairs on the deck going down to the ground level (9' off the ground), but I'm going to nix the stairs for cost reasons. The nice thing about a ledger is that I can build the deck with just 3 footings with 2x12 joists, for roughly a 19'x18' deck.

When doing the flashing for the ledger board against the house, is there any specific method/product folks recommend here? I'm contemplating building the deck myself, but the one thing I worry about is getting the flashing absolutely right (for obvious reasons). Thanks!


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

As kirk said the 12" blueskin behind the ledger and then the flashing 
Look at figure 2 in this link 
http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/integrating-deck-ledger-board-with-drainage-plane

What type of siding do you have?


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

Thanks for that link mae-ling, it's very helpful! I have aluminum siding. I'm not sure if you're looking for a more specific answer..


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

You will have to take some of it off, do the flashing detail, then re-install.
If you had brick or stucco there are other options as well when doing remodelling.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Blue skin is a nice product. I used Grace Ice and Water shield behind the ledger, with aluminum flashing over the top. Some pressure treated lumber reacts with aluminum, so you need to check very carefully to make sure that the PT lumber you use for the ledger is not reactive with the metal flashing.

As for flashing details, there are several websites that discuss at length proper flashing detail. I relied on an article in Fine Homebuilding magazine that discussed deck construction in considerable detail, including flashing. The issue is about 2 years old, it may be available on line.


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## ovahimba (Dec 25, 2007)

For a HIGH deck I would attach it to the house. If you plan to use the space underneath for a patio, additional deck, or even storage, the line of extra posts against the house and extra bracing will get in the way in a free standing deck. Careful flashing with both metal and membranes should prevent any problems, as others have said.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

mae-ling said:


> As kirk said the 12" blueskin behind the ledger and then the flashing
> Look at figure 2 in this link
> http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...grating-deck-ledger-board-with-drainage-plane
> 
> What type of siding do you have?


Bringing this thread back from the dead, but I'm finally getting around to building the deck now that better weather is coming around. I have an important question though regarding attaching the ledger board..

In preparation for building the deck, I'm planning things out and have determined there's foam board behind the siding. So it looks like this:

Aluminum Siding->foam board->2x material/rim joist

My question then is, according to this link.. that I attach the ledger board on top of the foam board (in the first picture), or should I cut away the foam board where the ledger board contacts it, and have the ledger board directly contact the existing rim joist? I would think I'd want the wood against the wood, as it intuitively would seem stronger to me, but maybe I'm wrong?

So, I'm debating between:

Flashing->ledger board->waterproof membrane->foam board ->rim joist

or

Flashing->ledger board->waterproof membrane->rim joist

Thanks a lot for everyone's help!

-Mike


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Yep wood against wood. Cut away the foam board.


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## NewHomeDIYGuy (Nov 23, 2011)

mae-ling said:


> Yep wood against wood. Cut away the foam board.


Gotcha, that's what I figured thanks.

Now there's really only one question I have that wasn't covered and just remembered. How do you flash the ends of the ledger board?

I found this article: 

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-P...-a-deck-ledger-board-on-vinyl-siding/View-All

I'm a little unsure of exactly how it works. I understand how to install the "Z" flashing above the ledger board in the "front," and installing "Z" flashing below the ledger board "behind" it (to prevent water from getting into the wall right below the ledger board), but am unsure of how to do the sides. Thanks again!

Edit: Ok, promise last question.. For attaching the ledger board, are carriage bolts or lag bolts any better? I'd opt for lag bolts since they're easier, but are carriage bolts significantly "better?" Perhaps I'm overthinking things.


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## MissFit101 (Apr 18, 2012)

*Roof*

I have a 10x10 cement slab in my yard . I want to put a roof over it . Just the basic roof. Can I get by with using 4x4 posts for the legs and 2x6 for the framing and 2x4 trusses ? or does anyone have a plan for that they wouldnt mind sharing .


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## picflight (Aug 25, 2011)

Post pictures as you build.


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## MissFit101 (Apr 18, 2012)

Im not building a deck/flooring over the cement slab . I am only building a roof over it . Can I use 4x4 posts for the legs and 2x6 for frame and 2x4 for trusses ?


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## cablerailing (Apr 19, 2012)

NewHomeDIYGuy said:


> I'm looking to build a deck ~9' off the ground, that's roughly 19'wide and 16' deep/long. Would you choose a freestanding deck or an attached deck (with a ledgerboard)? This is for a townhouse. The reasoning for not using a ledgerboard is really just a concern over time that the flashing might leak and water could get into the exterior wall. Is this not really a huge concern as long as it's flashed properly and I keep up with any regular maintenance?
> 
> My concern over many years is if the wood degrads/flashing wears and I develop a leak. Am I simply overworrying (and I should just go w/ an attached design) or is a freestanding deck really the best way to do it? I'm located in Virginia, where we get all 4 seasons. Thanks!



The reason flashing fails is that there isnt enough of it. Most projects would call for 3" flashing when in fact 6" or 8" may be required. And of course the metal you may be using. I remember a project I had years ago with SD Deacon that made us use 316 (marine grad) stainless steel flashing instead of galvanized metal. It was expensive, but there is no such thing as "over" weatherization in Oregon...:laughing:


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