# 2004 ford explorer won't start



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I suggest that you check the mounting for the steering column, and assembly under your dash.

I once had occasion to repair a Bronco II with the same problem.

The two piece clamping block under there had lost 3 of the 4 bolts, and the fourth was loose, after new bolts, it worked like it was designed to again.

Check for loose linkages to the switch, from the lock mechanism, as well.



ED


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Another take would be a bad starter switch. I went through something similar on my Ram 3500. I took the expensive route. Changed the starter first, then took on the switch when it didn't solve the issue. Switch contacts had half a million miles on them, so that should have been my first attack.


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## Fish_Stick (Feb 28, 2017)

Check the shifter for play and see if slightly moving it allows it start. Also try shifting into neutral and check for start. If either works you have some linkage that needs adjustment. Could also be the start of a failing neutral safety switch. Had another Ford that the shifter didn't like to always say it's in park even though it is.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Here's a long shot but it happened to me on 1979 Chevy Van.

The wire going to the starter, the nut was loose.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

I agree w/ fish stick. It sounds more like a neutral safety switch to me.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

If there is movement in the steering wheel, there is more wrong than just a neutral safety switch. Most of them are mounted on the transmission, near the final connection for the shift linkage.

They state that shaking the steering wheel makes contact in the circuit.

take it as you like it.



ED


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## Fish_Stick (Feb 28, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> If there is movement in the steering wheel, there is more wrong than just a neutral safety switch. Most of them are mounted on the transmission, near the final connection for the shift linkage.
> 
> They state that shaking the steering wheel makes contact in the circuit.
> 
> ...



True on the location but the linkage connects to the shifter on the column which if like my other Ford it had some play. By shaking the wheel back and forth they might inadvertently be moving the shifter ever so slightly so it sees that it's in park. Mine I have to actually rock the vehicle partially to get it to lock into park properly and allow the shifter to be wiggled so the square around the p is fully boxed in and then you can start it. Certainly difficult to diagnose problems over the web but they are all good suggestions.


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Well I'm back with an update took it to a mechanic and he swore it was the starter he said he checked the solenoid on the starter and it was loose internally he said he could get the solenoid to move inside okay replaced starter cost $300 my son drove to Walmart came out and the thing would not start I knew it wasn't the starter I knew it was something inside the steering column now I'm out $300 and vehicle is still not fixed I am P.Oed. I want the old starter back on and my money refunded can't do that because they got rid of old starter and can't return electrical parts. Now if it happens again he wants me to put it in neutral and see if it starts also wants me to put gear shifter in park plus some to see if it starts also thinks it might be a bad ground wire from Battery to block I am sick of this. How many things must I try and how much money do I need to spend to find out it's a $5 part that I could have replaced myself. I am an electrician by trade with lots of tools and mechanically inclined if I know what's wrong I will fix it myself. Told son to hold in start position and Shake steering wheel I could hear the car start over the phone exactly what I told the mechanic. If you're going to screw me over do not charge me for it. When I finally figure this out I will post results

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I tried to save that $300 in post #3.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

I still say that it's the neutral safety switch. Always take the cheaper route when you aren't sure.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

As I suggested, did you check the steering column mounting block assembly?

As well as all the other suggestions here?

All are a possibility.


ED


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Going to explore all options now. Got bottom half of steering column apart but couldn't figure out the top half. Going to get top half off even if I have to break it

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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Before you break it, look at a repair manual, either a paper copy, or do a google search for help.

The top should slide up, if you have the bottom un hooked.


ED


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Unplugged this connector and plugged back in under steering column all is fine for now









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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

If you think that connector might be the problem, shake it. Try to make it happen again.


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Update the thing let my wife sit at Best Buy worked on it for an hour finally pulled the starter relay took a pair of scissors thats all i had jump pins 30 and 87 that allowed power to go to starter and the thing started technically I hot-wired it finally took it to a mechanic he had it for 2 days he dont know what's wrong he thinks it's the PCM he is telling me that it will be around $1,000 to replace I told him to give it back now I'm going to install a push-button start this is only a temporary fix I'm still going to find out for sure what the problem is. And no the starter relay is not the problem I swapped it out with two other good relays. Also not the neutral safety switch

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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Get a donor PCM, from another similar Explorer that you know works, and try it, cheaper than a replacement at a shop.

Then if this works you can decide to keep the donor, or buy a new one.


ED


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Cool thanks Ed didn't know you could do that. My mechanic told me most of the cost was in the programming he said when you put one in it needs to be programmed specifically per make and model. Is he blowing smoke?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Not only make and model, but VIN as well. Yes, it can be $$ if you take it to a dealer.

Same thing with my ABS module. Found one on line that was inexpensive enough, but it did not work. Found out it was VIN specific, so I sent MY module to him at his request and he rebuilt mine. Worked great. That may be an option for you if you can find someone who rebuilds them.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Are you getting a signal from the ignition switch to the relay?:glasses:


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Not sure if I understand the question but if your asking if starter relay is hot (energize) when you turn key then no. If I was getting power to relay it would start

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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

There are 3 fuses you need to check. Battery junction box there are 2. #23 is a 30 amp fuse, #12 is a 50 amp fuse. Under dash fuse box there is #29 that's a 10 amp fuse. Check these fuses first before replacing anything. Make sure you have power on the #85 circuit of the starter relay when key is in the start position.:vs_cool:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

If the internet is right, this should be the ignition wiring diagram.


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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Update. That is the wiring diagram I found on internet which is how I knew what pins to jump. Mechanic wiggled some wires by pcm and haven't had a problem yet. Will keep you posted

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## davegerver (Jun 13, 2018)

Update. I installed a push button start from a pink barbie power wheel. This is my sons explorer. He loves it he thinks he has a Ferrari with the push button start. All is good everyone happy. Life is good dont care anymore

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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Tell him to never leave it unlocked while unattended.

It'll be gone as fast as a Ferrari, very popular vehicle for thieves to take.

And they used to sell push button kits at NAPA, to convert to that system.


ED


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