# sill plate repair over block foundation



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

It might not be "load bearing" in the structural sense, but there's still weight on it from the wall above it. The rim joist would need to be evaluated as to the amount of damage it had and where it was to determine if it needed to be replaced.
To raise this to replace the sill plate, I would attach 4x4's to the joists so that the 4x4's were perpendicular to the joists. The 4x4's would extend to the middle of the last joist bay, next to the sill plate. On top of the 4x4's I would add a "T" shaped 4x4 vertical support. The top of the "T" would run under the first floor wall studs to the first basement ceiling joist. The vertical part of the "T" would connect to the top "T" and the bottom 4x4 that was attached to the basement ceiling joists.
You would place these setups every 16" along the damaged sill plate.
You would place the bottle jack under each setup in sequence. Jack up the house a little at a time and place a vertical post(4x4) under each set up along the line. When you get it up enough, take out the sill plate and install a pressure treated piece in it's place. Work your way along the wall until your done.
If you're going to replace the rim joist too, nail them together and replace the set at the same time.
Offset the two ends so they don't line up.
Shoot nails throught the rim joist into the wall above through the subfloor. 
The rim joist/ sill plate replacement will be done more easily from the exterior of the house.
Resheath the rimjoist and redo the siding detail.
Lower the house back down.
Install bolts through the new sill plate into the block foundation cavity filled with concrete.
If you want, you can put down a sill sealer first before to put in the new sill. This will seal out any drafts. If it's too difficult, you can shoot foam in there to fill the gaps. 
Ron


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## MARLE (Apr 27, 2009)

*Sill plate repair*

Ron, if i understand this. I should run a 4x4 along the rim joist under the wall studs. Then extend down from that to the overhang of the 4x4s that run across the floor joists. If this is correct how many joists do i need to cross for support? The joists are 16" spaced. Can i do this for a 8ft section at a time? Thanks for your response and patience. Sill plate challenged...marle


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## hayewe farm (Mar 15, 2009)

First of all this is a load bearing wall. Second you not only have to lift the joists you need to lift the wall sitting on the sill. To answer your second question yes it can be done in sections. This is not the type of job that should be taken lightly and should most generally is best left to professionals.


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## MARLE (Apr 27, 2009)

*Sill repair*

Hi hayewe farm, i very much appreciate your concerns over safety. I in no way will do this repair if i feel unsure or doubtful. My problem is how to get the rim joist lifted. I do not see any easy access over the foundation to reach the underside of the wall. I can replace this sill in smaller sections if needed. My thought was more would be better. Thanks marle


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

MARLE said:


> Ron, if i understand this. I should run a 4x4 along the rim joist under the wall studs. Then extend down from that to the overhang of the 4x4s that run across the floor joists. If this is correct how many joists do i need to cross for support? The joists are 16" spaced. Can i do this for a 8ft section at a time? Thanks for your response and patience. Sill plate challenged...marle


All the 4x4's are perpendicular to the rim joist. The 4x4's under the floor joists span at least 4 floor joists or 4', whichever is greater.
This is not an easy job. There are great forces at work here. The potential for damage to the house and serious personal injury is substantial. If you don't stage the supports correctly, you will damage the floor sheathing and floor above, not to mention the walls.
I don't think it would work on a two story house. Ranches, yes.
I don't know if you could do just 8 ft at a time as you would really need to lift the whole side up a little at a time over a few days. Leaving one section down and trying to raise a small section would put a lot of pressure at the transition place.
Ron


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## hayewe farm (Mar 15, 2009)

Normally a horizontal 2 X is installed onto the outside wall and laged into the studs, then a jacks and posts are used to jack up the wall at the same time you jack the joists. Done wrong or to fast and a great deal of damage can occure.


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## Chemist1961 (Dec 13, 2008)

As mentioned the sill is normally fastened to the concrete as well.
While inspecting and sealing my sill and rim joist I located a 42" gap underneath a cantelevered closet overhanging into my garage.
I was able to fit and then drive fresh piece of sill into the gap from inside as the joists ran paralell. There was a lag bolt protruding so I knotched the new sill section and voila ... I got really lucky on this one but just wanted to point out depending on the rot you are facing, if it is mainly in the sill, you might get lucky.
What about access from outside. Can you remove external covering like siding to inspect from outside as well and have you determined then cause of the rot??


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## MARLE (Apr 27, 2009)

*Sill plate repairs*

Chemist1961, i have looked at the damage that was done by a deck being installed on this house 2 owners ago with no flashing. The sill is dammaged from water rot. The rim joist has some problem areas. I was considering wedging the rim joist so a several foot section of sill could be replaced at a time. Still considering all options and what the outcomes may be. Marle


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## MARLE (Apr 27, 2009)

Hi hayewe farm. I had 2 contractors out to look. They have discovered another issue. This house has 2 chimneys on the outside of the foundation. I am waiting on a response from them as well as still looking at options.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

MARLE said:


> Hi hayewe farm. I had 2 contractors out to look. They have discovered another issue. This house has 2 chimneys on the outside of the foundation. I am waiting on a response from them as well as still looking at options.


That would have been a point to add to the post as it negates most advice given to this point.
Ron


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## MARLE (Apr 27, 2009)

*Sill plate repair*

RON6519,

I am sorry about this. I appologize to all who have tried to help and have given their time. I will no longer pursue this issue here as I am embarrased enough by this mistake. Best wishes. Marle


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## hayewe farm (Mar 15, 2009)

You needn't apologize or be embarrassed if you had known how to do it or was knowledgeable enough of the process to know what all information was pertinent you wouldn't have need to come here in the first place. Do come back if you have any questions.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

MARLE said:


> RON6519,
> 
> I am sorry about this. I appologize to all who have tried to help and have given their time. I will no longer pursue this issue here as I am embarrased enough by this mistake. Best wishes. Marle


 If I stopped coming to places I made mistakes, I'd never leave my house.
The fact that you called contractors is a step in the right direction. Sometimes you need to hire pros to do a job.
When you get estimates, make sure they're detailed. When you do get them, bring them here and we'll over see them to make sure they are all inclusive and will do the job you need.
Ron


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## MARLE (Apr 27, 2009)

*Sill plate repairs*

Ok i will keep you all in the loop as this pans out. Weather here has been an issue for a week plus. Need a couple of dry days. I am awaitng some verdicts by the contractors who have made it out. The issues are jacking with the origional chimney and the added one. I could type all of the ideas that have been thrown out but i will wait for the more permanent answer or answers to come. Then i will post the scope of work from the estimates before work is started. Thanks to all...marle


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