# Gaps in drywall. What to use to fill them in.



## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

I always fill in large gaps with 'hot mud' (usually use Fast Set 40, it has a 40 min working time and very little shrinkage. I do all my mudding with hot mud except finish coat. I finish with premix 'topper'. I add 1 cup water and a Tbsp of Dishwashing detergent to 5 gals and the topper goes on real smooth.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

You can use regular old pre-mixed compound to fill in the gaps. Just make sure that you scrape it down after it dries, simply because it will sag, or slump....and you want it smooth, prior to placing tape over the areas.

When you apply your tape, make sure that the tape covers over the gap. This may mean that you will have to apply more than one "run" of tape to cover the gap. That is fine, just make sure that you overlap the tape's edges slightly, when placing another alongside it.

BTW- For others who may be asking: Why Dish detergent? - It eliminates alot of the air bubbles in the compound. It's an old taper's trick....


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks for the responses.

Atlantic, thanks for the tip on being able to use another piece of tape beside each other or on top of each other. Did I get that right?


If there is a slump after I have filled it, should I put another coat to make it smooth.

Does all purpose mud shrink? And if so, then all my work will look bad?


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

All purpose mud shrinks a lot. Try the hot mud You will like it. If you need more working time use a 90 minute mud.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

What is hot mud?

And with regards to the all purpose mud, when using it for my regular butt joints and recessed joints, will that shrink too?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Rehabber said:


> All purpose mud shrinks a lot. Try the hot mud You will like it. If you need more working time use a 90 minute mud.


Remember that Y.M. is a novice at this. Personally, I do not recommend a newbi to try and use a dry-mix compound, such as an Easy Sand. They will have too many problems with just trying to mix it to a smooth, non-lumpy, proper-consistency...etc...

They are better off applying an extra coat of readi-mix, if need be.


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

Hot mud is dry mix mixed with water that will set while still wet. (I like Fast set 40) I use it for everything but top coat. It has more adhesive in it than all purpose so It sticks really well. hardly any shrinkage.


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

Excellent point Atlantic, Yummy, if you decide to try hot mud, use a 90 minute set for more working time, and mix small batches using a drill with a paint mixing attachment to get it smooth.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks rehabber for the explanation about hot mud, but I think I will stick with Atlantic, and leave the hot mud to the pros, and use the all purpose as this seems more doable for me.

I don't mind if I have to do more coats.

Also, do you really have to do 3 coats on the screws?

Do the pros really do that? Or do they get away with only one?
And can I get away with it?


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

To get it smooth, a noob will do at least 3 coats. Get it smooth, you will prolly live with it a long time!


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## perpetual98 (Nov 2, 2007)

I just did some drywalling over the holiday. (My first actually)

I noticed that I need at LEAST 2 coats over the screws because the first coat shrunk a bit into the screw holes. Some more than others, but mudding the screw holes is the easiest part of mudding.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Yes, I will be doing three coats for the screw heads and three coats for all the other joints.

Thanks


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## pavola (Nov 13, 2007)

Once you're done mudding and sanding, your primer coat will show most areas that might need more mud. It's much easier and looks better if you do your touch up at this point instead of after painting.


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