# Help me buy the right test light for a fuse, please



## Cedrus (Feb 25, 2011)

I am an auto and electrical dummy....The slide outs in our 2003 motorhome would not retract in. I don't have a DC test light, but after looking at drawings, I narrowed it down to a row of fuses, on a board, crammed in the back of our inverter compartment. 



I did not want to start removing fuses with needle nose pliers so I called CoachNet who sent over a mobile repair person. He used a test light and quickly found a 30A fuse that had blown and replaced it. Slides work fine.


I did not ask to see his test light..... but I think I need one. Not as simple as I thought. Probably it should be 6-12V and needs a non-coil 6 foot lead and a hefty alligator clip. Should it have an LED or incandescent bulb...and should it be replaceable. What is the "computer wiring" I read about ? 



It seems that it is possible for me to damage components in the RV if I do not test properly. Sometimes the Accessory key should be on....and it seems most of the time it should be off. What other things should I look for so as not to damage anything ?


Thanks for any help.......


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

For something I imagine in the $20-30 range, I would go to my local hardware store and buy a 12 volt test light, a continuity checker, an inexpensive analog multimeter, and an automotive fuse puller. These are relatively inexpensive items that can help solve a lot of problems in short order. And the fuse puller isn't really necessary, but since you mentioned concerns with breaking something may as well get one. Or you can buy a meter at your local big box, but may have to go to the auto parts store for the rest. The continuity tester will look similar to the 12 volt test light, with a probe and wire with an alligator clip, just make sure not use it on a live circuit so you don't fry it. As far as incandescent or LED bulbs in either of those, I don't think it matters. As for using them though, if you need help any number of people here can do so, but at that point you'll have to be a bit more specific regarding the particular circuit you are working on.


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## surferdude2 (Nov 21, 2019)

If you don't have a good basic understanding of electricity and aren't interested in learning, then getting a basic fuse tester will be the way to go.

Look around for an Eaton FT-3. It'll fill the bill nicely.


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## Cedrus (Feb 25, 2011)

surferdude2......I have this Bussman Eaton in spare parts. Did not want to use as the light would be pointing up and away from me.....due to fuse locations. Also, the sliding tab to find the 2 fuse contacts would be problematic for me. I wanted a tester with one pointy probe...... so I could fumble around and eventually find both contacts. Got another recommendation ?


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## Cedrus (Feb 25, 2011)

DexterII......I have a Triplett 1101-B multi meter and can check AC and DC volts but never tried a continuity test and because I would have to get both probes onto the fuse contacts in a confined space....I thought I would buy a pointy fuse tester. 



Is not a test light and a continuity tester the same thing ?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

What you are describing is a basic CONTINUITY test light.

$5- 10 at the parts store..

It runs on a 1.5v battery inside, and has a replaceable bulb, in case it gets burned out. 


ED


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

This kit works great
Traces shorts and more.

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...&ved=0ahUKEwiw5YbmoMXrAhXJlnIEHXNxD-MQ8wII5QQ


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)




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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Here is some how-to for ya.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Here's a good review.

This thing may be expensive but its worth it


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

The power probe is for someone who understands electricity. A pro if you will. This is the test light you want/need. With a replaceable bulb. NAPA BK 7001071


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Cedrus, I read more into this than what you asked, so forget what I said before, but the tester that Brainbucket showed, or one similar, is what you want. A continuity tester would look similar, except that it has a battery in it as well, and is not what you want in this case. As far as hurting a circuit, yes, there are ways that it can be done, but with a tester like this you are not introducing any voltage into the system, simply checking for what is there, so put it directly on a suspect fuse, do not let the probe touch anything else that may have power, and you will do no harm. The cord length has no bearing on anything except that it needs to reach a good ground, and you should be able to find any number of those within arms reach.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Cedrus said:


> I am an auto and electrical dummy....The slide outs in our 2003 motorhome would not retract in. I don't have a DC test light, but after looking at drawings, I narrowed it down to a row of fuses, on a board, crammed in the back of our inverter compartment.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You could have used your manual tool.

You can even get an attachment for a cordless drill that also does the jacks/stabilizers.


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## Cedrus (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks everyone......I sent away for the tester that Brainbucket posted.


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