# Gable roof over deck



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'm surprized there going to allow you to have the post sitting below grade like that, and not sitting on Sono Tubes set below the frost line and sitting on post bases.
No diaginals on the outside post to stop it from swaying?
I use a self leveling lazer level to set ledgers, and to mark where to cut off the vertical post.
If it was mine I'd make the deck part free standing, not attached to the house.
Reasons being, It's allows for drainage, not going to have to deal with the siding and the flashing issues.
I've just seen way to many times all the damage it can do.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I think Joe makes some good points. It doesn't matter how much preservative is in those posts, they will not survive direct burial the life of your deck. Best to attach the post to the footing using a Simpson or similar post bracket. Ditto Joe's comment, you need diagonal bracing to stiffen the deck against sway. You can see the details of how to frame in the Guide to Residential Deck Construction available here http://www.awc.org/publications/dca/dca6/dca6-12.pdf.

As to leveling the beams, like Joe I use a rotating laser level. Cost me about $75, great tool. You decide what elevation you want the beam to be, based on your roof design. Mark that location with a pencil mark, align the rotating laser with the mark, and transfer the mark to the posts. You adjust the cut line on the post by taking into account the thickness of the post bracket you are using to support the beam. Cut the posts, install the caps, temporarily support the post in plumb position, nail in the beams. All good.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Makes it a whole lot easier when there's no reference point to work from.


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## ricksample12 (Feb 6, 2015)

Joe & Daniel... that's what I had thought about the footer but the specific building codes in our area call for our footer hole to be 40" deep. The footer itself should be 15" round x 10" deep with the post sitting directly on top. Then attached to the bottom of the post some blocks to allow for uplift protection (they aren't pictured because they made me change it when I picked up the permit). I originally was going to bury the post in concrete but they said concrete can't surround the post... I didn't ask about the Simpson anchors because they gave me a page right out of the book showing the footer below grade with the post on top. To be honest, I haven't seen any decks use Simpson ties in my area... they all appear to be berried. My parents have had there deck done this way for about 20 years now.

I hope the footer is okay this way... can't really change it now since it's been approved. Any changes they said would have to go through an appeal process which would take 30 days. The deck is actually already built... this will just be the for the roof

I will check out that lazer level... I thought they were more than $75... I thought the self leveling swivel types were between $500-$1000. You make it sound to easy... but you're way sounds better than trying to brace everything in the air like I was going to do. :thumbsup:


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

A water level will do a fine job and a way cheaper.
even a string line pulled tight, with a clip on level at the center of the string.

I am old, lol, I remember before we lasered everything and the buildings were just as level and stood fine. laser is nice though.


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## ricksample12 (Feb 6, 2015)

mae-ling said:


> A water level will do a fine job and a way cheaper.
> even a string line pulled tight, with a clip on level at the center of the string.
> 
> I am old, lol, I remember before we lasered everything and the buildings were just as level and stood fine. laser is nice though.


I was watching videos on that water level... may give it a try to see how it works before I buy the level. After watching multiple videos, it looks like my best bet for the roof would be to attach the ledger board. Then use the water level to find where to cut the 6x6 post. After the 6x6 post is cut temporary brace it in position with some 2x4's. Then tie a piece of string to side of the 6x6 post on the top and run this string to the ledger on the house where I think it might be square. Then use the 3 4 5 method to make sure one side is square. If it is, attach the joist hanger and sit the beam into position.

Does that sound better to anyone? Sure beats trying to brace everything in the air trying to get it level before I cut my posts like my original plan.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

If I am following correctly, sounds good.
YOu can use the 3/4/5 method or what I prefer for this is use Pythagorean therum. Calculate out the angle and set the post at that measurement.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

If you set the bottom at that measure then level then temp brace, then double check top.
Be sure to measure from a part of the post you can actually get to.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

You're using words like "hope". If you hoping things will work out, take a step back and review your plan.
The advices you're getting are good ones and worth following, because you want that roof to last more than 20 years. Granted, 6x6 may last longer and with the cross braces for posts, the roof will not suddenly collapse. Always remember that joints are like a hinge and weak by itself.
Just look at the pt retaining walls and fence posts. They are rotting at the ground contact. I was surprised at the good condition of the lumber that were buried and never dried out.

Stop worrying about what you're going to do. Imagine it and make a list of every step you can think of. Don't prose it, number them.


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## ricksample12 (Feb 6, 2015)

I may have found someone to build it but I have a question. After the footer is done... just building the frame, attaching prefab trusses, OSB, shingles, capping everything, gutters, etc... how long do you think it would take for 2 guys or 3 guys (depending on availability) to complete this? 2 days maybe? It would take me a lot longer, but these are guys who do this for a living. 

The builder who built my house said he would just build it if I buy materials, then he will charge me labor only. He said he won't be making a profit on this, he's just doing it as a favor since he's a member of the family and has done a lot of work for me. 

I told him my budget is $3,200 for materials/labor... he said he could work with my budget and and I told him I would have around $1700 in materials. That leaves $1,500 in my budget for labor... I'm trying to figure out if this will be enough to pay for his employees plus give him a little something. I don't want him to do it for free... but I can also toss in another couple hundred if needed... he's a real nice guy and is doing me a huge favor.

I don't know how much his guys make... I'm just estimating $20/hour x 3 guys x 8 hour days = $480/day. Two days is $960 labor minus my $1500 budget gives him $540 in his pocket which is decent since he doesn't help build... he just tells his guys where to show up and what to build. But if it takes them an extra day I'll need to toss a little more in to give him a little something as a thank you :thumbsup:


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Not sure where you are but around here $20/hr per man is low. It is not just wages but insurance, taxes, expenses. Here we are around $40/hr per man. your area may differ greatly


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## ricksample12 (Feb 6, 2015)

It could just be the location... to be honest I cant see his workers making anymore than 14-15 per hour plus insurance/taxes. I just saw a couple days ago a construction job posting for $10 per hour. Just to give an example of how prices are out here... he built my 2400 sqft colonial house for $130k. Somewhere else this house could have easily been double that... which means the workers probably would have made double. 40 bucks an hour out here is rare lol... even if that does include insurance and taxes


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