# Dryer vent puzzle



## lewisthepilgrim (Dec 8, 2011)

Yeah... you do yourself a favor and go buy FULL SIZE machines, and build a REAL laundy room !

For real though. Its always a nightmare with stacks. on SOME of them you can remove the middle pannel to access the vent hose. this means you can trim is much shorter and attach it after the dryer is in place.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Either move the termination vent up the wall to match the dryer exhaust perfectly OR use a "periscope" vent. http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml
Be sure to use a Type "A" rather than "B" for 50% more air flow.

Gary
P.S. Welcome to the forums!


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Even with non stackable units this is tricky. Mine is kinda the same situation there's a bunch of slack all curled up at the back. 

One idea I had to fix this (but never executed it.. maybe I should) was to use a sturdy pipe elbow going up, some solid pipe going from there and then you can reach and put a small piece of flex to link it to the exhaust pipe going outside. In fact you could even just stick to using solid pipe that way too. Just have one section that is not secured so it's easy to remove.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

NYCbianchi this is a very common problem, especially in condo's where space is so limited. It's also a fire hazard because eventually that crappy plastic tube will fill with lint. How much room is behind the stacked unit?
The only way this can be eliminated is nearly impossible, which is to put the vent in the exact location it will terminate from the dryer, slide the dryer into place and then install the vent from the outside.


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

Thanks for the input, guys. This is a great forum. It sounds like I'm basically screwed. There is ZERO clearance around the units (perhaps a few inches on either size, nothing on top) so I can't do anything that requires "reaching around" to seal off a connection.

Since I'm going to have a bunch of slack back there, should I stick a dryer vent booster fan on the hose?

I'm not just worried about a lint fire by the way ... the dang dryer isn't working very well at all, and having replaced the heat element I'm guessing the slack in the hose is the reason ...


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Are you renting or your house?

Will a periscope fit in the wall cavity as I posted earlier?

Are you able to move the termination hood/duct up to exactly match the dryer exhaust?

A 180* turn in a flex hose could give enough back pressure/heat to burn the *high-temp fuse*, did you check that?

A booster fan may require contacting your local AHJ for this *Alternate Method *of exhausting for safety.

Gary


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

Gary, I'm not sure how a periscope would work. I can't get back there to line it all up -- and I don't think it's feasible to line it up in advance and slide it back perfectly into place. Am I missing something?

I own the house.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

How much distance (vert/horiz) is there from the dryer outlet to the vent? The periscope worked great in my situation. But I can see how it'd be challenging if you can't see or get a hand behind to line it up.


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

I'll check on the distance. My guess is it's within a foot or two but lining them up is impractical since the stacked units are f-ing heavy and it's all I can do to get them back in there at all.


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## jfrotten (Aug 14, 2011)

What's the model number of your unit? It may have a removable panel to access the hookups in the back...


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## bubbler (Oct 18, 2010)

Is there any space to the sides of the unit, even just ~6"?

I've considered, but not executed, the following---

Use one of those "periscope" lines to run to the SIDE of the dryer and re-locate the vent there. Now you can secure the periscope (or even just 2 90* elbows and a short piece of hard conduit) BEFORE you push the dryer into place and then clamp the final connection at the wall after the unit is pushed into place (which is easily accessible since it is complete exposed)--obviously this requires that your vent be located directly to the side of the dryer (but on the same plane at the back wall), which means you may need to relocate the vent.

A bonus to this is that you may be able to remove the final 90* from time to time in order to clean out any lint build up.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Had this same problem with some KitchenAid front loaders.


What I did was:

After some very careful measuring I cut a hole in the drywall, removed the insulation from that area, drilled a small hole in the outside wall (centered on the inside hole), then cut a matching hole in the outside wall.

Used a standard dryer went that has the metal pipe attached. Slid into the dryer vent connection and screwed it down to the siding.


Makes for a neat, short and effective vent that can easily be removed from outside if need be.



Also placed the dryer closer to the inside wall.


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

In answer to questions folks have posted:

-- The vent is actually on the cieling, going straight up to the roof. It is positioned at the back of the alcove, but on the cieling, not the wall.

-- There is absolutely no space to reach around, manipulate anything, insert a periscope, or do anything on either side of the dryer. Part of the problem is that the alcove has a doorframe (to shut the units behind doors) which is almost exactly the dimensions of the stacked units ... I can't reach around them at all.

I'm beginning to think I might need to cut an access panel to reach into the alcove from the side. There's a closet on the other side of one wall, so I can cut through the back of the closet, reach in and make a nice tight connection, then close up the hole in the wall (or put in a door). I've never cut through drywall but it sounds like fun...


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

*Here's what you need:*

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZD3MO...d=18678251221093721685&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=


Cut the drywall in the closet behind the unit, make your connection, then install this access panel cover so you can get to the connection in the future.


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

I think this is the way to go. Anyone have a helpful link on how to cut through a wall? I mean, do I need anything besides a saw and courage?


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

ktkelly said:


> Cut the drywall in the closet behind the unit, make your connection, then install this access panel cover so you can get to the connection in the future.


I think that's what I'm going to do. The closet is *next to* the unit, but I should be able to reach across and make the connection. Or climb in.

SOOO I've never cut through a wall before. What do I need besides an access panel and courage? A stud sensor, I suppose. What kind of saw?


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Cutting drywall is easy. Look for a jab saw. They are cheap. It's got a pointy end. Just sorta drill into the wall with the pointy end, then saw. Be careful not to cut any pipes or wires.

A "multi purpose ocsillating tool" works great, too. If you're in the mood to buy a new power tool.
You may not need a stud sensor. There's gonna be a stud where the back wall of the alcove hits the closet wall. Just jab a little to the front. Once you're in the wall, studs are easy to find. ;^)


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## NYCbianchi (May 16, 2012)

Thanks forum folks! I bought a jab saw and the access panel you recommended, cut through the wall (easy!) and connected the vent properly. A tiny bit awkward reaching through and connecting the hose but I think it's on there okay. 

You guys rock!


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

NYCbianchi said:


> connecting the hose


You didn't use a* hose* did you?:no:


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