# Mounting new load center to concrete block wall.



## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Is it okay to mount a new GE 200A load center directly to a concrete block wall with 1/4" tapcons or do I need to build a wooden platform with treated 2x4's and plywood in order to mount the box onto it. The box would actually be above ground level as only the first 3 courses of block in my basement are below drainage.


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

you can mount directly to the concrete, but it's easier to secure the cables if mounted to a wooden backer


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Techy said:


> you can mount directly to the concrete, but it's easier to secure the cables if mounted to a wooden backer


I guess it makes sense from a cable management aspect. I hadn't thought about that. I was thinking more in lines of possible condensation problems. I've never noticed any condensation on my walls but I wondered baout electrical codes and such.

I have another question maybe you might answer. I plan to enter the box with my supply line by dropping straight down out of the meter socket about 2 feet and immediately turning 90 degrees and going straight through the wall into the back of my load center. I plan to use 2" PVC conduit. I'd literally only need ~6' of wire. I've noticed that the sheathed wire is extremely stiff. How easy is it to get that stiff wire through the 90 degree elbow? Is it permissible to cut the sheath off the cable and run the 4 wires individually if needed?


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

What size wire are you using and what brand of panel?


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Techy said:


> you can mount directly to the concrete, but it's easier to secure the cables if mounted to a wooden backer


Yup. I use 24"x48" minimum. 32"x48" typical. Obviously this is a 4x8 sheet cut two or three times.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> What size wire are you using and what brand of panel?


I assume 4/0 aluminum. Isn't that whats recommended?

The Panel is a GE 200A 40 circuit/32 space box.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

You cannot come into the back of the panel. You don't have the depth (of the panel) to meet wire bending requirements. You will have to come into the top, sides, or bottom of the panel.

Diameter of 4/0 XHHW = .638 in
300.34 requires 8x diameter
Depth needed .638x8=5.1 in


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

k_buz said:


> You cannot come into the back of the panel. You don't have the depth (of the panel) to meet wire bending requirements. You will have to come into the top, sides, or bottom of the panel.
> 
> Diameter of 4/0 XHHW = .638 in
> 300.34 requires 8x diameter
> Depth needed .638x8=5.1 in


 Don't you ever enter the back of a meter socket? Why are there ko's in both the back of a socket and a load center?


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## a_lost_shadow (Dec 18, 2011)

speedster1 said:


> Is it permissible to cut the sheath off the cable and run the 4 wires individually if needed?


Wires are required to be marked with a bunch of information such as the type, gauge, insulation rating, etc. (310.120 NEC 2011). Unless all this information is printed on each of the individual wires, you're required to leave the sheathing intact.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

speedster1 said:


> I guess it makes sense from a cable management aspect. I hadn't thought about that. I was thinking more in lines of possible condensation problems. I've never noticed any condensation on my walls but I wondered baout electrical codes and such.
> 
> I have another question maybe you might answer. I plan to enter the box with my supply line by dropping straight down out of the meter socket about 2 feet and immediately turning 90 degrees and going straight through the wall into the back of my load center. I plan to use 2" PVC conduit. I'd literally only need ~6' of wire. I've noticed that the sheathed wire is extremely stiff. How easy is it to get that stiff wire through the 90 degree elbow? Is it permissible to cut the sheath off the cable and run the 4 wires individually if needed?


Unless the individual conductors are marked as to their insulation types they may not be removed from a cable assembly and used as individual conductors.
Damn, I'm slow.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

brric said:


> Don't you ever enter the back of a meter socket? Why are there ko's in both the back of a socket and a load center?


I can't remember the last time I have come into the back of a meter socket...99% of the homes here have basements, therefore we come out of the bottom of the meter. There have been times I was able to come into the back of panels, but like I said, it depends on the depth of the panel and the size of the wire.

This GE panel says 3.8"
A Murray (at HD) says 5"

So, the Murray with 3/0 CU would be ok coming into the back of the panel, but not with 4/0.

As for the reason, I assume that the enclosures are made for multiple different panels...150A could be the same as 200A. You can also use those KO's for something other than service entrance cables.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Here is a schematic I drew. As you can see I want to drop down from the meter socket approximately 12-18 inches then turn 90 degrees and go directly through the block wall. I'd continue to run the 2 inch PVC through the block wall and connect to the back of my meter. It seems like a better idea than coming in the side or top of the meter simply because it's one less 90 degree turn I have to make. It would require 1 simple 90 degree turn. Only issue is how tight I can make that turn. What kind of fitting is typical for this type of application? A 90 degree sweep or one of those 90 degree boxes with a weatherproof screw plate ?

I could use 2.5" PVC if I had to (prefer not to simply because I already have 2" supplies). Their are knockouts for both sized on both the meter and load center. 

I'm not really sure what wire I should use. I'm just basing it on what the electrical supply house recommended that sold me the Meter box and conduit. I thought they told me 4/0, 4/0, 4/0. I assume that's for the hots and neutral. I think they said #2 for the ground. This sound right? 

If I had to couldn't I just buy single 4/0 aluminum wire that's marked properly and run it through separately?


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

Where is grade?


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> I can't remember the last time I have come into the back of a meter socket...99% of the homes here have basements, therefore we come out of the bottom of the meter. There have been times I was able to come into the back of panels, but like I said, it depends on the depth of the panel and the size of the wire.
> 
> This GE panel says 3.8"
> A Murray (at HD) says 5"
> ...


Okay I just re-read your post and realized you were talking about the physical depth of the load center. For some reason in my head I thought you were talking about the 90 degree bend in the service wire before it goes trough that wall.

As for the depth of the box, I planned on stripping the outer sheathing where it comes into the box. Surely I'd be able to bend and loop those aluminum wires and get them into position without harming them. At least it seems like I should be able to do that. I thought the bigger issue was being able to bend the sheathed wire outside the house.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> Where is grade?


below the bottom of load center. The grade would be below the 90 degree entry.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

> I planned on stripping the outer sheathing where it comes into the box. Surely I'd be able to bend and loop those aluminum wires and get them into position without harming them. At least it seems like I should be able to do that.


Whether it seems like it or not, it is not legal.

What I would do is come out of the bottom of the meter socket to just below floor level and come in with a LB. Then install a 90 elbow or if that brings the conduit too far from the wall, install a 2nd LB down into the top of the panel.

You only need a #4 AL for the ground between the meter and the panel. Your ground rods and water ground need to come into the meter/disco outside. The neutrals and grounds need to be separated in the panel.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> Whether it seems like it or not, it is not legal.
> 
> What I would do is come out of the bottom of the meter socket to just below floor level and come in with a LB. Then install a 90 elbow or if that brings the conduit too far from the wall, install a 2nd LB down into the top of the panel.
> 
> You only need a #4 AL for the ground between the meter and the panel. Your ground rods and water ground need to come into the meter/disco outside. The neutrals and grounds need to be separated in the panel.


What if I were to use copper entry cable? Would that be legal? If so what should I be looking for in terms of wire type and size?


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

Copper would still be too large to legally make the bend.

3/0 CU diameter = .584 in
.584x8=4.672 in

You could return the GE panel (one I don't like to begin with, but not going to start THAT argument) and buy a deeper panel and use copper. Then you would be legal to come into the back of the panel.

Here's one that would work.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

another

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

I prefer to exit the meter socket out the back and enter the panel through the top. That keeps the conduit inside the structure and makes wiring the panel easier and neater. And code compliant. That is not always possible, but when it is, that is what I do. I like to mount the panel to a piece of 3/4 inch treated plywood which is fastened to the concrete or blocks. The plywood extends above the panel so I can staple the branch circuit conductors above the panel.

I use aluminum triplex rather than a sheathed cable assembly.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

> I use aluminum triplex rather than a sheathed cable assembly.


You can't use triplex in this application. The main is outside.


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

k_buz said:


> You can't use triplex in this application. The main is outside.


Okay, I missed that. I would still use non sheathed conductors.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> You can't use triplex in this application. The main is outside.


Not sure if this matters but there will be a 200 amp main disconnect in the outside meter socket along with a 200amp main in the load center.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

Because the main is outside, your panel is a sub panel and all the rules of a sub panel apply.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I called a friend of mine and we were talking about this. He said I could use 2/0 copper through the back of the panel and he thought it was permitted for 200 amp service.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I'm hearing multiple thins about 2/0 copper. One electric supplier in my town says I need 3/0 for 200 amp service. Says 2/0 is rated for 175 amps. Other supplier says its permissable in my town and that the electrical inspector is okay with it.

Internet searches show that some places allow it and others don't.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

speedster1 said:


> I'm hearing multiple thins about 2/0 copper. One electric supplier in my town says I need 3/0 for 200 amp service. Says 2/0 is rated for 175 amps. Other supplier says its permissable in my town and that the electrical inspector is okay with it.
> 
> Internet searches show that some places allow it and others don't.


If it is a residential service 2/0cu is allowed, and typical.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Speedy Petey said:


> If it is a residential service 2/0cu is allowed, and typical.


Thanks. That's what I wanted to hear. I have the boxes mounted and ready to run the wire. Now I just need to figure out how much cable to buy.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I keep reading and reading and reading and seem to run across lots of conflicting info. I'm going to use 2/0 copper and I assume a 1/0 ground. Since my meter is outside and my load center is inside and connected in a closed system with 2" PVC conduit is it a requirement that I use 2/0-2/0-2/0-1/0 SER cable with the sheath intact? Or is it permissible to use 3 individually marked 2/0 copper wires and a 1/0 ground wire assuming they are marked and rated for this purpose.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

Either way!


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

You can't use 2/0 ser. It would need to be 4/0 ser.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> You can't use 2/0 ser. It would need to be 4/0 ser.


I've been told I can use 2/0 SER if it's copper and is a residential application


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

you have a conduit path, just use individual THWN. Ground only needs to be #6 CU


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Techy said:


> you have a conduit path, just use individual THWN. Ground only needs to be #6 CU


I would think it would be easier to pull that way isn't it?

Ground only needs to be #6? What about from the outside meter to the grounding rods? Same thing?


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

Mhm. 200A service only requires #6 CU unless the feeder was oversized for voltage drop (not an issue for your case)


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

speedster1 said:


> I would think it would be easier to pull that way isn't it?
> 
> Ground only needs to be #6? What about from the outside meter to the grounding rods? Same thing?


#6 Cu to the ground rods, #4 Cu to the metallic water line if present, #4 Cu to the ufer if present, #6 Cu equipment grounding conductor from the service disconnect to the sub-panel.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

brric said:


> #6 Cu to the ground rods, #4 Cu to the metallic water line if present, #4 Cu to the ufer if present, #6 Cu equipment grounding conductor from the service disconnect to the sub-panel.


not sure what an ufer is. I do have a copper water pipes nearby I can connect to. Does the #6 copper in these applications need to be THHN/THWN or can it be standard solid bare grounding wire.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

speedster1 said:


> not sure what an ufer is. I do have a copper water pipes nearby I can connect to. Does the #6 copper in these applications need to be THHN/THWN or can it be standard solid bare grounding wire.


You need to run the water ground to within 5' of where the water enters the building, and you need to jumper the water meter.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

speedster1 said:


> not sure what an ufer is. I do have a copper water pipes nearby I can connect to. Does the #6 copper in these applications need to be THHN/THWN or can it be standard solid bare grounding wire.


 May be insulated or bare. We use stranded wire almost exclusively.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> You need to run the water ground to within 5' of where the water enters the building, and you need to jumper the water meter.


That's a problem. My water enters my house on the opposite corner from the electric meter. They are on complete opposite ends. Furthermore, my water meter is located another 30 feet away from where it enters my house in a concrete enclosure with a manhole cover. I don't know how is ground that.


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

You have to run all the way to the other side of the house to hit the water. Then you have to install a small jumper around the meter and secure the jumper with J-Clamps...the same clamp you will use on the water pipe inside the house.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

k_buz said:


> You have to run all the way to the other side of the house to hit the water. Then you have to install a small jumper around the meter and secure the jumper with J-Clamps...the same clamp you will use on the water pipe inside the house.


Is this connection to the water line inside the house or outside? Also if all the copper in the house is connected why can't I just ground it to the copper lines in my basement? I'll have to ask my inspector about this one. I haven't looked at my water meter but I assume its jumpered already.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

The connection to a metallic water line that has greater than 10' in contact with the earth need to be made within 5' of where it enters the house.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

k_buz said:


> You can't use 2/0 ser. It would need to be 4/0 ser.


2/0 Copper. :thumbsup:


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## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

Speedy Petey said:


> 2/0 Copper. :thumbsup:


I have to apologize, I always forget about copper SER. I have never seen it, but in pictures, kind of like Bigfoot.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.

1- I just ran a 1/2 stiff rubber hose through my meter to simulate the 2/0 copper and measured the size. It's 56" to each hot and 49" to the neutral and ground. That gives me a fair amount of slack for compensation. Total is 160" or 13.3 feet. If I buy the 2/0 CU THWN or THHN wire can I just buy one long piece ( say 15') and use the same wire for the two hots and 1 neutral? Or does this wire need to be color coded? I planned to run the first hot and then cut it to size, then use the remainder of the wire doing the same thing with the second hot, etc. 

2- If you look at the diagram I made you can see that the meter box is mounted on siding which sticks out about 2 inches from the block wall. I've seen the 2" meter offset adapters that would work but I don't see a 3" version to use on the schedule 80 pipe coming from the power company. How do I deal with this issue? Do they make any type of 3" offset? I guess it could just run straight down into the ground leaving a 2" gap between it and the block wall. But it's my understanding that the inspector wants the conduit strapped to the house. This would be difficult with a 2" gap.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

speedster1 said:


> I have a couple more questions if you don't mind.
> 
> 1- I just ran a 1/2 stiff rubber hose through my meter to simulate the 2/0 copper and measured the size. It's 56" to each hot and 49" to the neutral and ground. That gives me a fair amount of slack for compensation. Total is 160" or 13.3 feet. If I buy the 2/0 CU THWN or THHN wire can I just buy one long piece ( say 15') and use the same wire for the two hots and 1 neutral? Or does this wire need to be color coded? I planned to run the first hot and then cut it to size, then use the remainder of the wire doing the same thing with the second hot, etc.
> Your plan is fine. Identify the neutral with white tape on each end.
> ...


Question 1, your plan is fine. Identify the neutral with white tape on each end.

A. Why are you using 3" pipe?

B.Use a minerallac with a spacer between it and the block.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

brric said:


> Question 1, your plan is fine. Identify the neutral with white tape on each end.
> 
> A. Why are you using 3" pipe?
> 
> B.Use a minerallac with a spacer between it and the block.


The 3" sch 80 is a requirement from my power company. I am removing my overhead service and switching to underground. The poco wants 3# conduit with sweeps and a pull rope.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I was researching wire prices and seen this online. Whats the difference between the THHN wire and XHHW wire. One is $2.60 a foot and the other is $3.60 per foot. The specs look similar. It states that both wires have 19 strands but from the picture it appears the THHN wire has larger strands. Are both of these permitted for my application?

http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Copper-Building-Wire/THHN/Stranded/2-0-THHN-Building-Wire.html
http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Copper-Building-Wire/XHHW/2-0-XHHW-Building-Wire.html

BTW, I don't plan to buy online. I'm just comparing costs. The two local electrical supply houses sell 2/0 CU for $2.96 and $3.06 respectively. I think the big box stores sell it for around $3.45/foot.


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## a_lost_shadow (Dec 18, 2011)

The different types of insulation allow the wire to handle different things. If you look at the features block on both those, you'll see that the THHN is gas and oil resistant, while the XHHW is sunlight resistant.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

a_lost_shadow said:


> The different types of insulation allow the wire to handle different things. If you look at the features block on both those, you'll see that the THHN is gas and oil resistant, while the XHHW is sunlight resistant.


thanks. I guess in my application the thhn is fine since its ran through conduit and not exposed to light.

If I get sheathed ground wire does it matter what color I get? Does it need to be green or can it be black?


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

#4 and larger can be black taped green, #6 or smaller has to be completely green or bare


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

Also because this wire is in a technically 'wet' location (exterior conduit) it must have a W somewhere in the wire insulation type i.e. THWN


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

Techy said:


> Also because this wire is in a technically 'wet' location (exterior conduit) it must have a W somewhere in the wire insulation type i.e. THWN


Or XHHW.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Went today and bought my wire. Fought the oppressive heat and installed it. I think I got it right. Maybe some of you can verify. It's 2/0 CU THWN wire and #6 THWN ground wire. That 2/0 is tough to wrangle. I could only imagine 4/0.

I do have a question about the "green screw" that comes with the panel. I've been told the inspector will look for this. Also questioning the bonding of the ground and neutral bars by default. Are these supposed to be separated since the GE panel is technically a sub panel to my meter box?

First pic is of the GE Circuit breaker panel in my basement. Second pic is outside in the meter/disconnect box. Third pic is the LB below the meter box going into the back of the GE panel, and the last pic is the bottom of the GE panel where the neutral and ground at bonded together.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I was also told the inspector is picky about the tension on those lugs. He likes them really tight. something like 200 ft/lbs. I have a 1/2 inch torque wrench I use on regular bolts but how do I torque those hex screws?


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

yes the crossbar should be removed, and whichever bar you're using for only grounds should be bonded to the can.

Or you can buy an accessory ground bar and mount it to the can, and use both factory bars for neutrals leaving the crossbar in place.


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

harbor freight/similar sells a cheap set of allen/hex sockets, good for this.

the required torque is on the label


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Techy said:


> yes the crossbar should be removed, and whichever bar you're using for only grounds should be bonded to the can.
> 
> Or you can buy an accessory ground bar and mount it to the can, and use both factory bars for neutrals leaving the crossbar in place.


I think I should be good with 32 neutrals so I'll just remove the connector. What about this green screw? What do I do with that?


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

use it to bond the bar you're using for grounds it should fit in the hole close to the bottom that doesnt have a screw


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Techy said:


> use it to bond the bar you're using for grounds it should fit in the hole close to the bottom that doesnt have a screw


Thanks. I just screw it down until it contacts the can?


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## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

speedster1 said:


> I was also told the inspector is picky about the tension on those lugs. He likes them really tight. something like 200 ft/lbs. I have a 1/2 inch torque wrench I use on regular bolts but how do I torque those hex screws?


Make sure you don't get foot pounds and inch pounds mixed up. It's not going to be anywhere near 200 ft/lbs as you will instantly strip or break something.

I don't really think a 1/2 torque wrench will provide enough accuracy for tightning these lugs. Is it a click type wrench or does the shaft bend? What are they asking for torque?


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

zappa said:


> Make sure you don't get foot pounds and inch pounds mixed up. It's not going to be anywhere near 200 ft/lbs as you will instantly strip or break something.
> 
> I don't really think a 1/2 torque wrench will provide enough accuracy for tightning these lugs. Is it a click type wrench or does the shaft bend? What are they asking for torque?


Good catch. The torque listed on the can says 200 lb-in for the 1/4 hex and 120 lb-in for the 3/16.. my torque wrench is the click type.


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## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

Click is better. Use your own judgement. Can you measure 10 foot pounds with it?


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

zappa said:


> Click is better. Use your own judgement. Can you measure 10 foot pounds with it?


Mine measures 10-200 lbs. I'll have to find a 1/2" socket style hex head now 

I removed the connector and screwed the green screw in place. I think I should be good now. I noticed there are screw holes for an accessory ground bar. I'm wondering if go that route and leave the neutral bonded to future proof the box.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

the more I think about this the more I wish I knew more about electricity. I can't seem to grasp in my head why it matters if the neutral and ground bars are bonded in the sub-panel. They are bonded together in the main service panel so what makes a difference if they separate and then come back together at some point.


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## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

Do a search for sub panels or bonding, there is tons of information about this here. In a nutshell, it's best not to have parallel fault current paths.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

Just a quick update. I finally was able to schedule an electrical inspection for early next week. But from the sound of it it seams I may have the ground installed improperly. I have #4 groud running from the rebar grounding rods to both the water line and into the outside meter socket/disconnect. Then I also have ground running from the meter socket through the conduit into my new load center attached to the ground bar. The electrical inspector told me that I should not have the ground connected to the meter socket because it is considered non-serviceable. He made it sound like I need to run that #4 ground wire directly through the wall and into the load center.

Does this sound right?


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

No, it does not sound right. What you did sounds right. If your main service disconnect is in the meter enclosure, that is where you connect the grounding electrode conductor and bond it to the service neutral. A 4 wire feeder is then run from there to your panel where the ground and the neutral terminal strips are not bonded together.

Unless your state or local code is different than the national electric code.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

jrclen said:


> No, it does not sound right. What you did sounds right. If your main service disconnect is in the meter enclosure, that is where you connect the grounding electrode conductor and bond it to the service neutral. A 4 wire feeder is then run from there to your panel where the ground and the neutral terminal strips are not bonded together.
> 
> Unless your state or local code is different than the national electric code.


Thanks. You know I'm wondering if the inspector doesn't realize my outside meter has a built-in disconnect. He may be under the impression that the meter is just a stand-alone meter and that I'm using my circuit breaker as the main disconnect. I better call to clarify.


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## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

speedster1 said:


> Thanks. You know I'm wondering if the inspector doesn't realize my outside meter has a built-in disconnect. He may be under the impression that the meter is just a stand-alone meter and that I'm using my circuit breaker as the main disconnect. I better call to clarify.


I'm a little confused by this myself. Do you have a "meter main" where the meter part is blocked off for POCO only but you have access to the disconnect part? If so, does the GEC attach to the disconnect side or POCO side?


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

I think he posted a picture of it earlier in the thread Zappa.


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## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

jrclen said:


> I think he posted a picture of it earlier in the thread Zappa.


Thanks, I found it. It looks so new?. For some reason I thought the outside part was old existing. Pic taken before GEC was installed?


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

I don't see a picture of the meter pan and disconnect. The GEC would be in there.


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## zappa (Nov 25, 2011)

If the GEC is in the meter pan enclosure maybe that's what the inspector meant by unserviceable?


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

I think the inspector will change his mind when he actually sees the service.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

The inspector stopped by and did the inspection today. It passed, so now I'm ready for the POCO. He said everything looked good. THe only small technicality was that I had attached the ground wire to the rod on the wrong side of the clamp. He said it needed to be on the outside instead of the inside do to potential for cutting the copper by over tightening. No big deal though. I'm all set to go now.

I forget who the original poster was on this thread that told me I couldn't enter the back of the panel with 4/0 Aluminum due to height restrictions. So instead I used 2/0 cu. He said I still could've used the 4/0 al as long at it was individual conductor. Oh well, the 2/0 cu was tough enough to wrangle. So I'm glad I didn't attempt the 4/0 AL.

I'm not an electrician so I"m not really sure what you mean by GEC being in the box. I assume you are talking about the grounding lugs that attach to the nuetral. The bottom half of the meter socket will be servicable by me. It has a panel that can be removed to access the 4 space breaker and 200A main. The cover to the meter will be locked and not serviceable by me. SO maybe that clears up your questions. The box is from a company called Midwest.


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## jrclen (Feb 20, 2008)

Congratulations on passing inspection. It's always a good day when that happens. Just so you know, 4/0 aluminum bends a lot easier than 2/0 copper.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

jrclen said:


> Congratulations on passing inspection. It's always a good day when that happens. Just so you know, 4/0 aluminum bends a lot easier than 2/0 copper.


Thanks!

Didn't realize the smaller copper was stiffer than the thicker aluminum. lol Oh well, it cost a bit more and it's already installed so there's no going back now.


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