# Upper Cabinet Door Stops...



## Nayr (Jan 27, 2010)

We have installed new kitchen cabinets and my wife liked the staggered look of different heights as well as different depths. Now that we have them installed we still like the way it all looks however the upper cabinet doors that are mounted in the 12" deep cabinets hit the the side of the 15" deep cabinets. What I was wondering is if there was a company out there that made some kind of a door stop hardware that mount on the inside of door as well as to the inside of the cabinet. Basically limiting how far the door swings open. I basically overlooked this when we ordered cabinets.

Thanks in advance


----------



## GarageDoorCente (Mar 1, 2010)

This is a somewhat simple/cheap idea. Have you considered the small rubber bumpers?








Simple yet effective


----------



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

As garagedoor stated, bumpers are the cost effective way to go.
Ron


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

I don't think you guys are on the same page. I believe he's talking about the outside of the 12" deep cabinet door hitting the side of the 15" cabinet it is mounted next to. The cushions you show are made to go on the inside. I haven't seen anything that restricts the swing of the door from the inside. That's one of the pitfalls of staggering cabinet depths on the uppers. Designers love to spec 'em, but they never have to hang 'em.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Unfortuneately, keeping the door of the 12" cabinet from hitting the 15" unit won't happen. Putting a clear bumper or two on the side of the 15" unit will avoid damage to the 12 " door.
Not an elegant solution, but it will work. Ideally, a spacer should have been put between the two cabinets so you could use a 110 degree hinge so there would be no issue. 
Ron


----------



## kerry42 (Nov 3, 2009)

Had a similar issue I went to hardware store and purchased 2 small cup hooks and a short length of small brass chain and made a stop by limiting on how far the door would open. When door is close chain is not visible from outside of cabinet ,you will have to adjust the amount of chain to met you desired door opening .Hope that works ...Kerry


----------



## GarageDoorCente (Mar 1, 2010)

Ron6519 said:


> Unfortuneately, keeping the door of the 12" cabinet from hitting the 15" unit won't happen. Putting a clear bumper or two on the side of the 15" unit will avoid damage to the 12 " door.
> Not an elegant solution, but it will work. Ideally, a spacer should have been put between the two cabinets so you could use a 110 degree hinge so there would be no issue.
> Ron


exactly what I meant, put the bumper where the shallow cabinet door hits the deep cabinet, not on the inside. I figured it was pretty obvious of a statement so I didn't dive into detail:laughing:


----------



## RTRCon (Nov 20, 2007)

kerry42 said:


> Had a similar issue I went to hardware store and purchased 2 small cup hooks and a short length of small brass chain and made a stop by limiting on how far the door would open. When door is close chain is not visible from outside of cabinet ,you will have to adjust the amount of chain to met you desired door opening .Hope that works ...Kerry


 I've done this numerous times as well.. Kind of primitive, but it works.


----------



## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

firehawkmph said:


> I don't think you guys are on the same page. I believe he's talking about the outside of the 12" deep cabinet door hitting the side of the 15" cabinet it is mounted next to. The cushions you show are made to go on the inside. I haven't seen anything that restricts the swing of the door from the inside. That's one of the pitfalls of staggering cabinet depths on the uppers. Designers love to spec 'em, but they never have to hang 'em.
> Mike Hawkins


I think the guys were suggesting sticking such bumpers on the edge of the face frame of the deeper cabinet; I have used the little clear dome shaped ones for this and they mentally fade away as a visual issue in short time. Locate it high so that the upper rail of the cabinet door will contact it. As stated, certainly not the most elegant, but functional to prevent damage in the short run.

For permanent mehanical limit, I have had success in the past with one of the arms that are designed to limit travel on toy chest or cedar chest lids. For starters look at the selection of lid stops at the HD and Lowes. Rockler and other on line hardware suppliers also have a selection on line, but it is best IMO to be able to position the piece physically in the air as you try to visualize whether or not the particular mounting configuration will work.

The small brass chain also works, but instead of cup hooks, I fastened it to the bottom edge of the upper face frame rail, and then into the door stile with brass screws.


----------



## GarageDoorCente (Mar 1, 2010)

troubleseeker said:


> I think the guys were suggesting sticking such bumpers on the edge of the face frame of the deeper cabinet; I have used the little clear dome shaped ones for this and they mentally fade away as a visual issue in short time. Locate it high so that the upper rail of the cabinet door will contact it. As stated, certainly not the most elegant, but functional to prevent damage in the short run.
> 
> For permanent mehanical limit, I have had success in the past with one of the arms that are designed to limit travel on toy chest or cedar chest lids. For starters look at the selection of lid stops at the HD and Lowes. Rockler and other on line hardware suppliers also have a selection on line, but it is best IMO to be able to position the piece physically in the air as you try to visualize whether or not the particular mounting configuration will work.
> 
> The small brass chain also works, but instead of cup hooks, I fastened it to the bottom edge of the upper face frame rail, and then into the door stile with brass screws.


yeah i meant the clear little rubber ones too, but i was too lazy to find the picture for them:whistling2:


----------



## Nayr (Jan 27, 2010)

The post that refers to the mechanical arm is what I was trying to come up with. I bought a small piece of the chain and tried that. It will definitely work but think I like the mechanical arm set up better if I can make it work. My wife is a huge "oil rubbed bronze" fan so every drawer pull or knob is that finish. Driving me nuts. I painted one chain and then let her use that "rub n buff" stuff on the other so we could see what she likes if other options don't work. 

You guys all have great ideas thanks for the help.


----------

