# PL Premium to attached baseboard to drywall, with no studs behind it



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Got some real issues if there's not 2" foam and a real stud wall with insulation and a vapor barrier installed before the finished wall in your area.
Why would you be worried about removing it in the future?


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

joecaption said:


> Got some real issues if there's not 2" foam and a real stud wall with insulation and a vapor barrier installed before the finished wall in your area.
> Why would you be worried about removing it in the future?


Yeah, I haven't pulled the drywall off to see what's behind it, but I know there is cement block part of the way up and that's why the previous owner, who did many unconventional things, didn't use nails in this ext. wall's baseboard trim -- looks like he used Gorilla Glue or something similar. We put in thinner commercial carpet in that room, replacing a thicker shag carpeting, so we have to move the baseboards down. I'd like it to be removable in case down the road, we or the next owners, decide to swap out the flooring with something thicker or thinner.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

I'd be curious as to how the drywall is being held on. If the drywall is secure, I would cut the bottom 2-3" off and fasten a piece of 1/2" plywood to the block with tapcons. Then you could fasten the base molding with short finish nails. If you try glueing like you mentioned in your above post, you'd tear the face of the drywall off trying to remove it in the future. If the drywall is right over the block, I would seal the plywood before I installed it. Wouldn't be all that difficult.
Mike Hawkins


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Maybe you could use Velcro strips, then you can adjust it whenever the urge strikes you. :wink2:


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

As mentioned, you may have inherited or be heading for some long term issues if the drywall is glued directly to the block, but to your original question, PL sets up fairly quickly, but your idea of some angled screws to hold it isn't bad. Even painter's tape will often do the trick if your wall is straight.

If/when you try to remove the trim it will damage the paper. You can minimize this be being careful and it might not matter much anyway unless you were planning to not replace it with new trim. Don't over think things - it over complicates things when you are trying to do something properly while worrying about how to undo it at the same time.


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

lenaitch said:


> If/when you try to remove the trim it will damage the paper. You can minimize this be being careful and it might not matter much anyway unless you were planning to not replace it with new trim. Don't over think things - it over complicates things when you are trying to do something properly while worrying about how to undo it at the same time.


Good points ... not a big deal if it just damages the paper. Thanks everyone for the tips.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

If I already owned the PLP I would use it. If I were going buy a product specific for this app, I would look at PL Fast Grab or a similar product. You want your molding to stay put after you position it. Nails into drywall will be nearly useless.


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