# Clear coat burn through!!!!



## Brainbucket

Welcome to the site. Sorry but I don't do body work. I create it.:glasses: But I'm sure someone will pipe up and help ya.:vs_cool:


----------



## ukrkoz

Go to any parts store. Or, to automotive paint store, but it's more expensive.
Buy spray can of matching paint. You can locate paint # and order one. If you buy at aut paint store, they can mix you spray can and add clear coat to it. 
That's door, right? Tape window, handles, and chrome. Better off, remove it off the vehicle and go to some warm dry no air movement place.
Spray with paint, well overlapping the area. Make sure you feather the paint cone at the end of the nozzle movement, so you go in arc, away close close away away.
Don't try to fix it in one spray. Do 4-5 THIN layers and let them dry well before applications. Point is not to cover it right away, point is to mask and blend the paint into existing. Will take you good couple hrs of no rush job. 1 minute spraying, 30 minutes drying. Maybe even point heat lamp at it. If you have clear coat premixed, then you let it dry overnight, sand and buff next day. If you don't, sand next day and repeat with clear coat.
Secret is THIN overspray. Several thin coat applications


----------



## patb74

Ukrkoz, 
Thank you so much for your honest answer! I've asked several forums an no one has provided any answer other than take it to a shop. I have the exact matching paint in a rattle can from another project. So, based on your answer you don't think I should try to take it down more then build it up with primer than paint?


----------



## ukrkoz

It is hard to judge from a picture, you know. I did recently bumper cover on Honda Ridgeline, was worse than that, and came out very nice. 
I'd say, it really depends how deep that is. If it's a sizeable depression - assuming, you used fingers on sand paper, instead of sanding block - it WILL show but, then again, one needs to know exactly where to look to see it and reasonable coat of dirt masks everything.
It's your call. Even if you need to Bondo it - it's not that much of a job. Just very tedious and no rush. Make sure you have sanding rubber block. Or, one of them foam sanding blocks that have abrasive sides, those work very well.
I am real curious, how you managed to do this with 3000 grit. It's a VERY fine sand paper. 
If you have spray paint, make sure you have plenty as you will have to do quite a few consecutive coats. Most of spray cone is wasted as it needs to be spread onto a large overlapping area. To bland this all in. You will also need clearcoat can. Keep in mind, ones bought at parts store are cheap paints, don't sand or hold well.
You'll also need degreaser. Area needs to be washed, degreased, lightly sanded with about 1200 grit, washed and degreased again, dried, then you can do overlays. 
Key is - THIN no drip coats. WELL dried in-between and even better dried before sanding. Get a red lamp and point at the work area.


----------



## Radcon91

Here's how this would be fixed professionally. I grew up working summers in my dad's body shop. I think if you just try fixing the small spot alone you'll be able to see it, no matter how careful you are.

If this came into the shop, we'd use a blending gel with grey scotch brite and scuff the whole panel (looks like a door?). Then spray base coat in the one spot, how ever many coats are required and then clear the whole panel. It depends, but if it's too close to the edge of the panel we might even scuff the adjacent one and reclear that whole panel as well. 

How this helps.

Josh

Sent from my XT1093 using Tapatalk


----------

