# Painting over creosote



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

not likely to get any stain to stick to the creosote----

Let's see if a painter has some magic fix--


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## kentannenbaum2 (Feb 1, 2016)

It's more a paint, not stain we'd be looking for. I have the feeling it's going to remain dark brown forever. Thanks for the response.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

" Is there a method or is it madness to try?"

It's the latter part


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## kentannenbaum2 (Feb 1, 2016)

Perfect, fits right in with my plan!


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

vinyl siding.....................


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Pics would help. Depending on how thick the creosote is on the logs, well, it's possible you could use an oil-based stain-blocking exterior grade primer and then topcoat with 2 coats of latex. I'm just guessing here because I've not painted over creosote that I know of, but, my instincts tell me that without a stain blocking primer, the creosote will wick through the finish coats of paint. You could test an area just to see what you're up against.


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## kentannenbaum2 (Feb 1, 2016)

Actually I think it's rough thick cedar shingles, not logs. Anyway, no photos on hand but I get the picture and think we'll leave it as is. I figured it would be way more coats and not worth the trouble since it looks good. We just wanted to brighten it up but that won't happen.
Thanks very much.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

you can try pressure washing with a soap and see what happens, just do a small out of the way spot to start..


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## kentannenbaum2 (Feb 1, 2016)

OK, thanks again.


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## ric knows paint (Oct 26, 2011)

kentannenbaum2 said:


> We're buying a 2/story cabin in good shape. The owner soaked the wood exterior wall shingles with creosote when he built it in 1980. It's dark brown and we may want to paint it a lighter color. Is there a method or is it madness to try?
> 
> Thanks very much. Ken


Hey Ken...

The exterior wood is no longer oily is it? I can't imagine that it is since 1980, even if it were saturated. Painting old Creosote is not that difficult to do, but don't use oil, primer or finish - that will cause the non-drying oil to bleed through. Use a latex primer such as Bulls Eye 123 (or any other brand of latex primer/sealer/stain killer - I recommend 2 coats spray applied with 24 hours between coats...then top coat with whatever you wish...

...or since it's shingles, you could apply a good quality latex, solid color, stain to the surface (preferable spray applied 2 coats) and you should be good.

Although either system should work fine, I'd always recommend a test app in some discreet area, before committing to the entire job.


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## kentannenbaum2 (Feb 1, 2016)

I knew that somewhere in the forum someone would turn up to torture me with an idea that works. You're right that it's dry after all these years. Even though in Catskill, NY it's a weird warm, this will wait until May. I'll give it a go.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

kentannenbaum2 said:


> Actually I think it's rough thick cedar shingles, not logs. Anyway, no photos on hand but I get the picture and think we'll leave it as is. I figured it would be way more coats and not worth the trouble since it looks good. We just wanted to brighten it up but that won't happen.
> Thanks very much.



Ayuh,.... Have ya considered just changin' the trim, 'n door colors,....

I love oiled shakes, myself,...


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

kentannenbaum2 said:


> I knew that somewhere in the forum someone would turn up to torture me with an idea that works. You're right that it's dry after all these years. Even though in Catskill, NY it's a weird warm, this will wait until May. I'll give it a go.




You do notice he said "SHOULD", thats the key word.


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