# Bar Top Installation



## cmittle (Nov 10, 2008)

No idea about the bar top, but in picture 8 it looks like you don't have insulation (at least inside of the bar) on the outside wall. You may want to add some there while it's still open.


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## Jeeper1970 (Nov 11, 2008)

I assume the bar top is laminate? Is it hollow underneath, only 3/4" thick in the center, but 1.5" thick around the edges?

Make a cleat that will fit inside the hollow area, figure out how you want the counter top to sit on the wall and screw the cleat down to your wall top accordingly, squirt a fair amount of silicone caulk on top of that, then set your counter on it. Set some dumbells (weights) or other heavy objects on it for about 24 hours while it sets up. Once the silicone cures, it ain't going anywhere.

Do a couple dry runs to make sure you have the cleat sitting in the correct spot before applying silicone, makes it easier if you need to unscrew the cleat and move it a little for the correct location.

I recommend using some corbels (inexpensive shelf supports work well and look attractive), spaced two to three feet apart along the wall. These are easier to install prior to doing the counter top. If you need extra support behind the drywall, you can probably get in and mount something sufficiently with the gap you.

Okay, I just did a little math. Using the numbers you provide, it looks like the biggest overhang you'll have will only be 6" or so. You can probably get away without using corbels.


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## 1655graff (Jul 27, 2007)

The material of your countertop (laminate, granite/stone/quartz, etc.) and the depth of your bar will dictate its support needs and options.

Here's a picture of the breakfast bar we put in for remodel. As you can't see, we did use "hidden" L-brackets that we had made for us (by ShortRun Pro, I think it was). The brackets are installed so that only the leg up under/against the plywood of the bar are exposed. Resting on them is the plywood support and then the slab of granite. Then we (once we install the backsplash) will install an edging to cover the plywood and pretty much finish hiding the L-bracket.

ShortRun Pro (just google it for the URL) may still have their good article available at their Website on design needs for bars as well as pictures of what others have done with their help. We used it to determine the size and spacing of the L-brackets. Since your kitchen is more traditional-transitional, I think you can also use corbels. They come in lots of styles (a Google image search may help). But still, space them so they do not interfere with using the bar for people standing/sitting at it (I think I recall that that's about every 24").

Have fun!:thumbup:


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## BikerDave (Feb 7, 2009)

*Use Metal Plate to support breakfast bar overhang*

We used a thick metal plate to remove the need for brackets or corbels (i hate banging my knees on those things). You can see a picture about halfway down http://www.thegoodrumfamily.com/ayrlee.kitchen if you look at the "Saturday" section. 

hope this helps,

-dave


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## MillerClemsonHD (Feb 16, 2007)

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. After looking at a few of my options and what it was going to take I changed directions and decided to tile the bartop. I put down the tile this weekend and the trim. Will be putting in the grout tomorrow night and will take some pictures this week and post them. I guess I might have to put up a few of the kitchen before we started and the finished product.


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