# How to handle toilet flange when leveling floor



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

First---5/8 is within the range of a thick extender ring so you probably do not need a flange extender--

However if you feel that you want to add a flange extender--you will find them in the plumbing isle of the nearest hardware store.

To keep the leveling compound out of your pipe while doing the pour---Use some all wax,wax rings and a cap---the lid from a coffee can will do---

Oh,and pack the pipe with plastic bags,just in case the compound leaks past the wax dam.

I use 'Jiffset' with Linewebbers latex---always did a good job.--Mike--


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> First---5/8 is within the range of a thick extender ring so you probably do not need a flange extender--
> 
> However if you feel that you want to add a flange extender--you will find them in the plumbing isle of the nearest hardware store.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your info. Never thought of using a wax ring to act as a dam around the flange.

1. The top of the toilet flange is 1/8" off level in the left-to-right direction but level in the front-to-back direction. Would that negate using extender rings?

2. If I use a flange extender that goes down into the pipe, how do I secure the extended flange? It seems that the extended flange would need spacers and bolts to secure it to the exsisting flange. But then the spacers would be off level since the top of the existing flange is off level.

Thanks,
HRG


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## broox (Nov 30, 2010)

The wax ring is a little forgiving when it comes to flange levelness, especially if you purchase one with a horn or internal gasket. If you use a flange extender it must be anchored to the concrete.
If you are raising the concrete 5/8", are you then installing tile or anything else that will increase floor thickness? How is the flange attached?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Do not use a flange extender that 'goes down into the pipe'---you will regret that ---

There are extenders that are mounted on top of the existing ring and do not reduce the size of the opening---If you must extend the flange --use one of those--Mike--


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

broox said:


> The wax ring is a little forgiving when it comes to flange levelness, especially if you purchase one with a horn or internal gasket. If you use a flange extender it must be anchored to the concrete.
> If you are raising the concrete 5/8", are you then installing tile or anything else that will increase floor thickness? How is the flange attached?


Plan to install the stick on vinyl tile blocks that are about 1 foot square by about 1/16" or 3/32" thick.

The current metal flange is secured to the concrete slab by 2 blue concrete flat-head Philip screws.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> Do not use a flange extender that 'goes down into the pipe'---you will regret that ---
> 
> There are extenders that are mounted on top of the existing ring and do not reduce the size of the opening---If you must extend the flange --use one of those--Mike--


Thanks for that tip! What's the negative with extenders that go down into the pipe?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The horn on the bottom of the toilet will not go into the smaller opening---Making the toilet impossible to set---That will flat out spoil your day!

You do not want the flange above the finished floor if you can help it----
This comment will start a huge debate----However,I have been a bath remodeler for more years that I want to admit---Wasted a lot of time chiseling and lowering flanges--

A high flange will spoil your day---Mike---


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## the_man (Aug 14, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> You do not want the flange above the finished floor if you can help it----
> This comment will start a huge debate


haha you're probably right. I always say install on top of the finished floor, because that's what my code book says (i think, it's been awhile since i've looked for that), but practically it depends on which flange you install. I only put in flanges that have a stainless steel ring. the profile on them is very thin, but the all plastic flanges are quite a bit thicker. I could see recessing them a bit, i've had to deal with that gap before :laughing:


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> The horn on the bottom of the toilet will not go into the smaller opening---Making the toilet impossible to set---That will flat out spoil your day!
> 
> You do not want the flange above the finished floor if you can help it----
> This comment will start a huge debate----However,I have been a bath remodeler for more years that I want to admit---Wasted a lot of time chiseling and lowering flanges--
> ...


Something to watch out for, for sure.
Thanks,
HRG


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## broox (Nov 30, 2010)

I also like the bottom of the flange even with the top of the finished floor.
If the existing flange is in good shape and all we are talking about is a 3/4" difference, I would consider just using two wax rings and not worry about all of this other stuff.


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## Homerepairguy (Aug 1, 2010)

broox said:


> I also like the bottom of the flange even with the top of the finished floor.
> If the existing flange is in good shape and all we are talking about is a 3/4" difference, I would consider just using two wax rings and not worry about all of this other stuff.


That's something to consider.
Thanks,
HRG


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