# Are Jack Studs necessary on partition walls?



## Gusaroo (Mar 6, 2008)

I am throwing up some partition walls to divide up a large room and am wondering if I can save a few bucks by not using jack studs in the door ways. Obviously, the walls are not load bearing, but I was wondering if the doubled up king stud and jack stud are needed to add rigidity for the swinging door frame or if just a single stud opening is strong enough for the door opening. Thanks guys.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Jack studs are not necessary from a structural standpoint. However, you will want to install them for several other reasons.

1.) Door installation: They strengthen a door opening for an actual door installation.

2.) Sheetrocked opening: They strengthen the opening, especially if that opening will be wrapped in sheetrock. Pretty much, you are going to see cracked corner bead over time, if you don't double the sides.

3.) Wood Trim-work Installation: You will need the 3" of wood (1.5"+1.5") around the sides and top edges, in order to attach the wood casing trim work's edges. With only 1.5" of lumber, there will not be any wood behind your standard 2.5" wood door casing for a nail to set into.


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## Gusaroo (Mar 6, 2008)

Thx, I didn't even think of the trim. Thats good info.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

And two studs nailed together have much less chance of twisting/warping somewhere down the line and causing problems with doors opening and closing properly. The few dollars saved is hardly worth it....


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## DIYJIMBONL (Nov 13, 2008)

You dont actually have to use jack studs though. Just double up two main studs then frame the door opening down.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yeah, but it only takes a few more minutes to do it correctly.........you have to frame some sort of header anyway. Put your jack studs in, double 2"x4"s on top of them, "cripple" studs between the top plate and double 2"x4"s, and you're done.


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## DIYJIMBONL (Nov 13, 2008)

The way I described is correct. There are several correct ways to frame a door opening. Pros and Cons to both. The way i described there is less chance of twisting because two main studs are nailed togetther and to the top plate. The way you describe there is only one stud nailed to the top plate.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The way you described is not correct for any load bearing application. In 35 years in the trades, I have never seen a door framed the way you described in new construction. All use jack studs whether in a load bearing or non load bearing wall. The method I described with a header and cripple studs above gives solid, double stud framing to the top plate. Your method will suffice for non load bearing.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Before things get too heated...the original post was pertaining to non-load-bearing walls/partition walls.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Understood Atlantic, and no offense meant DIYJIM. My idea of "correct" and his differ....


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## skymaster (Jun 6, 2007)

Hold up here folks!!!!!! What is this stealing MY studS
Jack


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## DIYJIMBONL (Nov 13, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Before things get too heated...the original post was pertaining to non-load-bearing walls/partition walls.


Exactly!


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Your method will suffice for non load bearing.[/quote]
I said his method would work. No harm, no foul.


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## mfleming (Apr 24, 2008)

FYI For the time it takes to get on your computer and enter your question in the chat forum putting in a king and jack stud and proper header would be done. 

Fixing it after the fact becomes a pain in the a$$ (from own experience)


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## Marvin Gardens (Sep 30, 2008)

Do it right. There is so little to be saved by skipping a few boards that it isn't even worth considering.


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## curiousburke (Jun 5, 2011)

I'm sorry for digging up this really old thread, but it is so closely relates to my issue that I felt compelled to ask my question here. 

So, the previous owner framed and rocked my basement, but never installed doors. He built a bump out where the utilities enter and exit the basement (waste, water and gas), which is 75 inches wide, but with room to install two doors. Two jack studs (no king) are in place at each end of the rough opening. The header extends out to the stud on the corner of the bumpout. He made the rough opening 60", and left me two 30" prehung doors. Well, if it weren't for those pesky door jambs, I'd be all set. 

BTW, there isn't access to install a jack stud outside the current two without removing both installed studs.

BTW2, he didn't leave any side room to shim any door in the basement, so I have had to plane some openings.

So, my question is, what to do:
1) remove all jack studs and reinstall with room to install doors.
2) remove one jack stud from each side and install doors
3) remove all jack studs and put in a king and jack
4) toss the doors and put in sliders or bifold of the appropriate width
5) other

Thanks for any advice you can give me,
Mark


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

6) Remove both of the inner jacks and replace with 1 x 4's which SHOULD allow enough room to install the doors _IF they are set perfectly plumb_.

Which they won't be, so remove both sets of Jacks and reinstall at a 62 inch spacing to do the job properly.
With the Header being full width, you don't need King studs at the door openings.
A sawzall will be your best friend.


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## curiousburke (Jun 5, 2011)

your first suggestion raises an question I've been pondering. So, I have two prehung doors with 3/4 jambs on each side. What would be standard to do in the center, remove the jambs, but then how do they close/lock? Or screw the jambs together? Or, ideally it seems there should be stud/s in the center, right?


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