# Caulk or Prime Drywall first?



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I would repair the drywall, then prime and paint it.

I would then do my caulking. Use silicon in any wet areas, like between the tub and sink and anything else.

I would use a mildew resistant acrylic caulk every where else. Acrylic caulks are easy to remove with strong solvents like lacquer thinner or acetone (which is typically what nail polish remover is made of).


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Drywall
Caulk - Use latex caulk. Tub area: Use latex with Silicone added (paintable)
Prime
Paint


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## joewho (Nov 1, 2006)

The recommended method is to prime then caulk. Then paint. Use the siliconized caulk so you can cut in on it.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

.... i was going to put wallpaper over my new drywall... i need to PRIME it first??? with what guys? paint???? aiyiyiyiyiyiyi (sorry, i'm new to some of this stuff. i figured paper on paper....ummmm you know....)

tnkx!
DM


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## joewho (Nov 1, 2006)

MdangermouseM said:


> .... i was going to put wallpaper over my new drywall... i need to PRIME it first??? with what guys? paint???? aiyiyiyiyiyiyi (sorry, i'm new to some of this stuff. i figured paper on paper....ummmm you know....)
> 
> tnkx!
> DM


Wallpaper primer is called sizing. Available anywhere wallpaper is sold. Makes the paper easier to maneuver when you hang it and easier to strip when you don't want it any more.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

sizing is not the actual paste/glue then? it has to dry first?

DM


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Gelineau:
Prime, Caulk, Paint

DangerMouse:
Prime, then size, then cover
If using a specialty primer like Zinsser's Shieldz Universal, there is no need to size


...BTW I miss your show terribly
Please let me know if it gets put back on the air
Thanks!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

and how well will wallpaper hide my sloppy drywall taping and compounding? lol

DM


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

slickshift... Penfold keeps asking me the same thing.... i'll tell you what i tell him, you can get all of our adventures on dvd or vhs now, and Colonel K caught a bit of the flu and has been out of it so, of course, Baron Greenback has been running amok, Baroney. heh heh
i'll look for Zinsser's Shieldz Universal, tnkx! now off to watch some of our many recorded adventures!

DM


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## Gelineau (Aug 26, 2008)

Thanks for all the info guys, I will start tackling this project tonight and hopefully be completely done by the end of the long weekend.


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## sirwired (Jun 22, 2007)

MdangermouseM said:


> sizing is not the actual paste/glue then? it has to dry first?
> 
> DM


Sizing is what you use to provide a film for the glue to stick to, but not soak into your wall. If you don't size, you end up with a situation where the glue soaks into the drywall paper and during any eventual removal, it will rip the paper apart.

SirWired


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## Gelineau (Aug 26, 2008)

sirwired said:


> If you don't size, you end up with a situation where the glue soaks into the drywall paper and during any eventual removal, it will rip the paper apart.
> 
> SirWired


This is exactly what happened to me but only in certain areas was it bad enough to tear off the paper to the bare brown layer in the drywall. 

Do you think adding some drywall compound and sanding it down is the best way to go to repair that? Would something like that require more than 1 coat of the drywall mud?


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## sirwired (Jun 22, 2007)

Repair of that problem involves coating the damaged areas with either Zinsser Gardz or Sherwin Williams PrepRite Drywall Conditioner. These products prevent further water intrusion, prevent swelling, and stiffen up the fuzzy paper so it can be sanded down. After apply the product, sand, dust, apply joint compound, sand, dust, and then prime and paint as usual.

If you don't lock down that paper, the new joint compound will cause it to absorb the water and swell.

SirWired


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Gelineau said:


> This is exactly what happened to me but only in certain areas was it bad enough to tear off the paper to the bare brown layer in the drywall.
> 
> Do you think adding some drywall compound and sanding it down is the best way to go to repair that? Would something like that require more than 1 coat of the drywall mud?


Previous advice is right-on. 

Use the recommended product, first before you attempt to coat anything. It will keep the torn paper areas from bubbling.

Link: http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=27


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## Gelineau (Aug 26, 2008)

Excellent advice sirwired and AtlanticWBConst. and much appreciated, thanks. I will definitely apply this drywall conditioner product before the joint compound.


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