# foundation rebar showing



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,... Step back, 'n take another picture,......


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Yes it needs to be dealt with. It was cause by rebar to close to the out side of the concrete or poorly vibrated which cause honey comb which allows water and air to get to the rebar.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Besides buying a bag of ready-mix, what process do I need to do to properly prep and fix this? Thank you


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,... Step back, 'n take another picture,......


what did this pic not show that I need to take another pic? thanks


----------



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Size mostly,....


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

tstex said:


> Besides buying a bag of ready-mix, what process do I need to do to properly prep and fix this? Thank you


Remove enough concrete to expose good steel on both ends and remove the rusted piece Paint any exposed steel with a rust inhibiter and patch the concrete with something that is designed for this.


----------



## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Remove enough concrete to expose good steel on both ends and remove the rusted piece Paint any exposed steel with a rust inhibiter and patch the concrete with something that is designed for this.


You can't just remove the bad rebar without replacing it. It's there for a purpose. You need to put a new piece into replace what you remove and add new piece needs to be spliced onto the old at both ends. Depending on the size of bar that was used spliced going to probably need to be at least 18". Displace rebar you just tie 2 pieces tightly together with wire in several places. When the new cement is applied it will lock them together.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks for everyone's answers.

Since the location of the rebar is right in the corner of two walls, to remove 18" would mean to jack-hammer straight into the concrete going into the house at 90 degrees...this is not just along the outside of the wall.

I also have stucco and at the bottom of all stucco are breathing holes, so I cannot go past stucco on top.

Let me know how this sounds as a prep and repair.
* remove all loose concrete around area and chisel out enough to get freshly exposed concrete
* use electric drill w wire brush to clean away all loose debris and remove all rust of concrete and check integrity of rebar
* if rebar is only partially rusted and can be cleaned-up, hit w phosphoric acid and prep concrete for troweling.
* Use trowel to cover entire area and feather it smooth w no honey combing...pls see the enclosed link as a material to repair concrete - if there's something better, pls advise.

Thank you, tstex


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Since you are in Texas and not up north where freeze thaw cycles occur annually, I don't see a huge problem. But I would still fix it. I would chip off the loose concrete, brush the repair area with a bonding agent, and then trowel repair with mortar. After a couple weeks seal it.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Yoda - what's a good bonding agent and sealer type? Thanks

Oops's _ forgot the link to show what I was going to repair concrete and use as the filler agent - thanks

https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-10-lbs-Vinyl-Concrete-Patch/3510280


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I use WeldCrete pretty much across the board for masonry bonding agents, and Thoroseal for top coats.


The quickrete patch that you want to use should work fine. Probably don't need the bonding agent since it already has extra adhesives already in it. Dampen the area with a spray bottle of water just prior to applying the patch


----------



## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

For the best bonding agent for Concrete use 1 Part cement - 1 Part sand & water to make a slurry.
Dash this slurry on the affected area using a large paint brush DASH it on DO NOT paint it on the surface. Than apply your patching material. If the rebar needs reinforcement or you would like to add some reinforcement see if you can find this product V-Rod it is a fiber glass re-Bar has the same strength as steel and does not rust. It comes starting at 1/4" Dia. So you can saw cut and add this size re-Bar


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

ClarenceBauer said:


> For the best bonding agent for Concrete use 1 Part cement - 1 Part sand & water to make a slurry.



I have heard of this bonding agent in the past, but have never tried it. Probably makes a lot of sense for masons who already have bag(s) of portland cement around. Around here I can only buy it in 90 lb bags. Is it available in smaller pkg quantities.


----------



## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Yodaman said:


> I have heard of this bonding agent in the past, but have never tried it. Probably makes a lot of sense for masons who already have bag(s) of portland cement around. Around here I can only buy it in 90 lb bags. Is it available in smaller pkg quantities.


It is sold in only 94# bags , I don't know of any smaller bags of Portland cement.
But you can go to most masonry supply sales and they most likely have Portland cement that you can purchase by the pound. When the bags in the warehouse are broken open by equipment moving around they will empty the bags in a container like a metal trash can and sell this in bags by the pound.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Msradell said:


> You can't just remove the bad rebar without replacing it. It's there for a purpose. You need to put a new piece into replace what you remove and add new piece needs to be spliced onto the old at both ends. Depending on the size of bar that was used spliced going to probably need to be at least 18". Displace rebar you just tie 2 pieces tightly together with wire in several places. When the new cement is applied it will lock them together.


True but the tie wire does not do anything but keep thing in place wire pouring concrete.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks for everyone's follow comments and suggestions...

If I chisel out and extra inch all around the area and in about 3/4", it's still going to be a very small area. But, when I start chipping it, and if it breaks off in much larger pieces real easy, then I know I might have a bigger problem. I will plan on chipping it out either Tues or Wed then repair the next day. If the concrete is solid and the rebar is only superficially rusted, then I'm going to use a combo bonding agent and filler. After it dries for 10-14 days, excluding any huge rains, I'll seal it...

As requested, here are a few more pics of the area...thoughts?

I do appreciate your comments; concrete is not my specialty- tstex


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Yodaman said:


> Since you are in Texas and not up north where freeze thaw cycles occur annually, I don't see a huge problem. But I would still fix it. I would chip off the loose concrete, brush the repair area with a bonding agent, and then trowel repair with mortar. After a couple weeks seal it.


This is not freeze, thaw. It is rust and needs to be dealt with by the book.


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Don't forget to kill that sprinkler head before doing the concrete repair. :smile:


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

The sprinker-head faces outward. But, after this is fixed, I am going to turn off this zone while it cures...thanks, tstex


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*as described, this is an extensive repair requiring cutting out the existing visible rebar, cutting the foundation to provide the correct thickness repair mortar (not concrete), tying steel correctly, etc,,, based on what i see, yes, its good to have the repair done,,, would i do it in my house ? no, i'd plant another bush ! this isn't a bridge deck, dam, parking ramp, or hi-rise*


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

ok, here's what I did.

Used an electric drill w wire brush and cleaned up the whole area...I did not take long to get immediate shiny rebar.

I then drilled 4 holes w masonry bit and hammered in tightly four 1.5" masonry nails all below surface of material to be. I then sprayed all w a Rust-Oleum ferric oxide neutralizer. Let it dry

Then sprayed the whole area w a concrete bonding agent and immediately applied the concrete and feathered it just a little higher than foundation making sure all the nail-heads were well below material.

Right now I have the area covered by a piece of plywood bc I do not want the soon to be 2pm-6pm west sun hit it immediately. After it sets over night, then I will remove the cover from the sun, but it has plenty of air circulation.

Any other suggestions ?

thx, tstex


----------



## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*you're fine ! good show ! plan on doing it again in 5yrs,,, meanwhile go play golf !:vs_bananasplit:*


----------



## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Yes, now do this.

Give yourself a break and stop looking for problems around your house. Trust me when I say this....there will always be at least one to find, and a job well done sir !


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Ok guys,

It's not fully cured, but here's a b4 and after. 

Also, I use this little trick to keep things that once they're opened, the plastic wrap has kept material good for a yr+ w this extra seal, just can't leave it in attic where heat goes crazy..

thanks again guys, tstex


----------



## Hawkins (Sep 23, 2021)

tstex said:


> ok, here's what I did.
> 
> Used an electric drill w wire brush and cleaned up the whole area...I did not take long to get immediate shiny rebar.
> 
> ...


How did things turn out?


----------

