# First time vinyl siding newbie plus windows



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

These are vinyl replacement windows being installed in the midwest? Iowa, Nebraska? As long as the original window frame is in good shape, there's no reason replacements windows can't be used.
As for methodology. One side of the house at a time sounds like a smart choice for the siding. With the windows, I would get them all in at the same time. There's a rhythm to replacement window install that goes faster as you do them.
The flashing details on the exterior are mulitifold. You need to know how to install each layer correctly or it will fail. Weatherstripping, capping ,J track, etal, need to be done in a certain sequence around the openings in the building. I would be sure you know what to do before you start.
Ron


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

If you are looking for Vinyl Siding - installation information/directions...here you go -

LINK: http://www.vinylsiding.org/publications/Installation_Manual_english.pdf


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## justdon (Nov 16, 2005)

Thanks for the replies. I read the install instructions front to back today. Question I have is 1 bye sheathing has LOTS of cracks some sort ofwide,,,what do you do IF the nail strip holes line up perfect with the sheathing cracks?? 

Also I have a rear attic window which is the ONLY attic access,,,I was 'thinking' of closing that off,,,no real need to go up there anyway,,, is that a problem?? It has failed in the past and allowed water to ruin bedroom ceiling . If I HAVE to I spose I could MAKE an access thru closet ceiling but dont know why at this point!! Unless I just use a aluminum storm that screws fast to frame(face screwed),,,and could be removed for access, but I doubt it,,,makes trimming siding twice as hard as it needs to be!!

Thanks!!-d-


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## PKHI (Oct 23, 2007)

I have never seen a DIY siding job that didnt look botched. At least its a rental


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

justdon said:


> Also I have a rear attic window which is the ONLY attic access,,,I was 'thinking' of closing that off,,,no real need to go up there anyway,,, is that a problem?? It has failed in the past and allowed water to ruin bedroom ceiling . If I HAVE to I spose I could MAKE an access thru closet ceiling but dont know why at this point!! Unless I just use a aluminum storm that screws fast to frame(face screwed),,,and could be removed for access, but I doubt it,,,makes trimming siding twice as hard as it needs to be!!
> 
> Thanks!!-d-


The access to the attic is so you can examine the condition of the structure from time to time to see any problems before they get too big. I would repair any past issues and leave it. But it's your house.
Ron


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## justdon (Nov 16, 2005)

PKHI AND all others,,, EXACTLY WHY I posted here!!! I want to know,,,need to know,,,what common screw ups and mistakes HAVE you seen ,,,so maybe I can minimize MY mistakes!!! Thanks for ALL replies -d-


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

justdon said:


> PKHI AND all others,,, EXACTLY WHY I posted here!!! I want to know,,,need to know,,,what common screw ups and mistakes HAVE you seen ,,,so maybe I can minimize MY mistakes!!! Thanks for ALL replies -d-


The problem with these mistakes is that few are seen and the ones that are seen can be subtle folds in weatherstripping, and the incorrect sequence in the installation that really can't be explained over the internet.
These mistakes can sometimes take months or years to become evident. All the time doing damage to the house.
For a more personal visual, try to find some instructional videos that detail what you need to know. There should be quite a few available all over the net.
Ron


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=313&file=3702&s=0

Think of your home's windows as 'Vertical SkyLights'. Water gets at the sides and tops of them. The water must have a way to exit from the siding. Ever notice how SkyLights on the roof have the lower flanges/flashing exposed so water can escape? The same holds true with regular windows.
Here are pictures of window flashing. Metal used should be no less than 30” long x 14” wide. Notch out a 4” wide x 24” long piece. 

For these pictures, I used a display window inserted into a faux wall and I omitted the insulation board, Tyvek and tape. I used duct-tape to prevent water from getting behind the flange, same as way Tyvek tape would be used in a real installation. DO NOT OMIT THOSE STEPS!
The left side of the window was installed the way most builders and siding installers do it. See how the water goes directly BEHIND the siding. You must depend on the Tyvek, felt or any other covering to never let water into them. Or rust nails. Or wick into the sill plate. These covering are supposed to be the SECOND line of defenses against the weather!
On the right side of the window, the water exits ONTO the siding and NEVER reaches the Tyvek, felt or any other covering! This is how the siding becomes your FIRST line of defense against the weather.
Instructions for flashing a 'Pre-Flashed window.
Tape and wrap the opening normally. Insert the window, level and check for square. Put a few nails across the top and upper corners to hold it in place. Insert the notched section of metal BEHIND the window flange on both corners, and nail upper edge of flange to hold it in place. Finish securing the window. ( If the windows get caulked, they can be caulked before securing the top and inserting the metal). DO NOT NAIL THE BOTTOM EGDE OF THE METAL AND DO NOT PUT ANY HOLES IN IT OTHER THAN THOSE REQUIRED TO SECURE THE WINDOW.
Now tape the window flange.
Run the siding up the wall. The LAST PIECE OF UNCUT SIDING BELOW THE WINDOW GOES BEHIND THE METAL. Cut the metal off flush with the locking strip on the last uncut piece. LEAVE THE METAL UNNAILED. Continue to install siding normally, but for best results, cut a 3” strip off the bottom edge of next piece so water will flow out uninterrupted.
Remember! To work properly, ( for all you that also do roofing ), the window has to be installed just like a flanged skylight. Roof or Side over the lower edge and it will bite you!
In the case of a NEW window with brick-mold and J-channel, the metal flashing is supposed to be installed BEHIND Brick-mold and before the J-channel. When siding an existing house and this can't be done, Install the flashing behind the J-channel. Assuming the J-channel is correctly installed, this should catch about 95% of the water.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Window%20Flashing.htm

It's also important to have a piece all the way across the bottom installed first. I omitted it on the mockup.


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