# Router Tables



## dtsman (Jan 1, 2011)

Depending on the applications it will be used for are important. If a store-bought table fits your needs then that is the answer. I have 2 custom ones that I have to set on my saw horses to use, and move my router from one to another. I have an aluminum straight edge I set using drywall screws. When the deck gets too many holes in it I make another one. 
Just the way I roll.



Bo

Remember,
If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy. 
(Red Green)


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## amen2u (Jan 28, 2011)

Check out the offering from Lee Valley Tools ( www.[B]leevalley[/B].com/ ). I have one for years and it's a dandy. Lots of accessories to add on if you want.


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## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

WirelessG said:


> I'm thinking about buying a router table (and a fixed base router). What do y'all own and what are your thoughts? I like the Kreg PRS 1040, but at $500, it's a little pricey. I don't really want a bench top, but I suppose I could build or buy a stand for it. I also like the CMT, but it's even more than the Kreg. And then there's the Veritas, and it has a cool pin arm, but it is pricey too.
> 
> Oh'Mike said that the best tables for him were the ones that he built, but I'm not sure I'm interested in building my own (although maybe I should). I also wonder about the fence - do I really need a good one? Most of the bits are going to run on their bearings with their full profile, so a clamped-in-place homemade fence should work.
> 
> For the most part I will simply be breaking edges and making raised panels.


this is the table i have. It work's for everthing i want to use it for. I got the one with the dust collection. Their is a video also http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RT01--


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## itin1200 (Oct 10, 2009)

I bought a Rockler table on sale about 6 months ago and it's still sitting in the box. Can't wait to use it, but other projects have grabbed my attention and I haven't had the chance.

Check out this thread on another forum for many, many table ideas.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17212-wanted-pictures-your-table.html


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I built a router table using a drop in phenolic insert I got for about $10, and a T slot I bought from Rockler for about $15. Works quite well. For a fence, I purloined the fence from my shaper, which I never use. A good fence with independently adjustable infeed and outfeed is great, since it allows you to use the router table as a jointer. This is terrific for glue ups of panels.

Many of the bits you will want to use do not have bearings. In particular, I use straight bits for edge shaping, and a variety of shaped bits for profiling. Many times, you get better results if you do not use a bearing, rather use the fence. So my suggestion is buy a good fence, it will be worth it.


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## jarleifvaagen (Aug 20, 2010)

I own a $100 outfit from Harbor Freight, 1 3/4 hp.

it may seem like a dinky useless router for bigger things, but it does the trick for crown molding, base board, and everything in between..if you scroll down in my post in the link below, you'll see the table i built around the table top $100 unit..


http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/first-house-remodel-79454/index2/#post517581

would a $500 router do a better job? maybe... probably faster anyhow.


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

Daniel Holzman said:


> I built a router table using a drop in phenolic insert I got for about $10, and a T slot I bought from Rockler for about $15. Works quite well. For a fence, I purloined the fence from my shaper, which I never use. A good fence with independently adjustable infeed and outfeed is great, since it allows you to use the router table as a jointer. This is terrific for glue ups of panels.
> 
> Many of the bits you will want to use do not have bearings. In particular, I use straight bits for edge shaping, and a variety of shaped bits for profiling. Many times, you get better results if you do not use a bearing, rather use the fence. So my suggestion is buy a good fence, it will be worth it.


I have a Powermatic 6" jointer, so I won't be using the router table for that. Like I said in my OP, I will mostly be using it to break edges (sepcially on small and narrow stock rather than try to balance a hand held router) and maybe some panel work. And a lot of the edge work would be done with pins rather than a fence as I would probably be breaking all edges on one piece (say all side of an octagon). What other applications do you think I would want to run through a router table w/o bearings? My thought was to simply use a straight edge to flush the brg with the fence. I guess if I wanted to run a cove down the middle of a piece, the bearing would have to be off and that may be something I want to do in the future.

I appreciate everyone's comments. Keep em coming.


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## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

WirelessG said:


> I have a Powermatic 6" jointer, so I won't be using the router table for that. Like I said in my OP, I will mostly be using it to break edges (sepcially on small and narrow stock rather than try to balance a hand held router) and maybe some panel work. And a lot of the edge work would be done with pins rather than a fence as I would probably be breaking all edges on one piece (say all side of an octagon). What other applications do you think I would want to run through a router table w/o bearings? My thought was to simply use a straight edge to flush the brg with the fence. I guess if I wanted to run a cove down the middle of a piece, the bearing would have to be off and that may be something I want to do in the future.
> 
> I appreciate everyone's comments. Keep em coming.


The beiring doesn't have to come off of the bit. When you use a fence to do a profile . You bring the fence where the opeing is . Use a Brass bar and put on the beiring and bring the fence over so the beirig just rub's . That is the most profile you will get. Also the fence doesn't have to be streight. I do router work for yrs and know a lot about the router. Also if you use a streight bit to do your glue up's get this fence. It is made for just that it is like 1/16" difference in the back part of the fence so that all you take off is the 1/16" Here is a http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=TF01--&product=F020of the fence or make one . You use a streight bit with a beiring on top. Now move the fence over tell the beiring just toutch's . Now you will get the right amount off. This is a good way to edge board's if you don't have a jointer. Check out the web site their are lot's of item's. I have all 3 fence's and the brass bar's. Now you can get the brass bar's at harbor freight. I don't buy nothing their don't like their stuff. Their are lot's of thing's you can do with the bar's like set the depth of bit and the width of the material you want to take off . also video on the table http://op.woodgrainonline.com/table/indexus.html


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

Yeah, I watched a few episodes of the Router Workshop some years ago, and that table is quick and easy.


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

I think I will build my own, probably in the style of the oak park model. If I later decide that I need a router table with a metered fence system, then I will look into the Kreg again. 

Thanks all.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Rockler and MLCS both make/sell some interesting router tables and router table kits. MLCS is always the first place I look for router bits and related accessories. Good prices, good quality and free shipping.


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

I decided to build the same router table that Norm Abrams made on the NYW, mostly because of the added storage compartments. I bought the sheet goods last night along with caster and drawer guides. It came out to $280! I couldn't believe that 3/4 birch is at $44. I haven't bought any for a couple years and it seems to me that it used to run $30 or so.

Oh well. It's a little pricey, but it gives me something to do for the next week or so.


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## desiree_furman (Mar 31, 2011)

It depends upon the usage, if you create tables that will fit to your house and about the usage of it so do it, what satisfies you make you happy.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

I have the Bosch RA1181 Bench Top Router Table










I have seen where people have incorporated this model into a floor standing router table.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Good post Drachenfire, and a good topic as far as I am concerned since I just recently retired my old smaller router table for a new Jessem, complete with a lift, but unfortunately it's a 10 year old thread that the spammer just ahead of you dragged from the archives.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

True, but someone else might be in the market for a router table and can use the information. 

All spammers should punished by being banned from the internet AND made to write by hand, "I will never send spam email again as long as I live." 10 times for every spam email they ever sent AND be made to eat fried SPAM the whole time they are writing their punish lesson.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Spam, indeed. Or is it shill? Anyway, the part about routing "in the darkest hour of night" is pretty funny.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Drachenfire said:


> True, but someone else might be in the market for a router table and can use the information.


On this I definitely agree, so will add that, although I've only had it a few months and consequently haven't used it a lot yet, I really like my Jessem table. It was not as inexpensive as some, but the quality is great so I am completely satisfied with my decision. I've accumulated several good size pieces of both MDF counter tops and phenolic over the past 10 years or so, didn't need a lift so came across the perfect size of 3/8" aluminum plate that I cut to size and drilled for the router plate a year or so ago, and picked up the birch plywood for a cabinet over the winter. Was all set to build it one of these days, then happened to run into a couple of guys who were of the opinion that a lift was the only way to go, so did some more thinking about it, decided I wanted that, one thing led to another, and I bought the package. I'll still build a cabinet to fit in their stand, but it's otherwise ready to go, and, again, works great. The lift might not fit everyone's budget, but if it does I can assure you that it's worth it; a whole lot easier for bit changes, fine tuning, etc. And of course one could still build their own cabinet and top and fit it for a lift, but there's something to be said for time too, and I had this one up and running in a few hours.


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