# Threshold Questions



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

jelly said:


> Hi, As you can see in the attached pictures, I have a variance between my radiant bathroom floor and hardwood in the hallway.
> 
> 1) The hardwood goes in the door jam area, can the threshold sit on the hardwood? Is so, what can be used to adhere the marble and wood?
> 
> ...


I see that the back wall your tile is over lapping the one behind it. so it has to be cut . slid your tiles back even with the beginning of the door jamb. so you will have full tiles in the door way. this way along the rear wall you will end up with full tiles. either way your going to have to cut them front or back.
you have two options here, I have done them both. Get your self a piece of 5/4 X 6 by what ever width your door way is. rip it down the same depth of the jamb. then rip it again on an angle or sloop. like a ramp from 1/4" to 1-1/16" and then screw and plug it to the subfloor.
Another way is have a piece of marble made 1" thick by 4-9/16wide with a hollywood bevel on one side and an eased edge on the other. and install that in the door way. But I noticed your underlayment did not continue out into the door way. this could create a problem with the marble saddle moving when stepping on it. which can cause it to crack or the grout to lift from the tile and saddle joint. Hope this was of some help. P.S. remove the door stops when you install the saddles. Good Luck BOB


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## jelly (Oct 19, 2007)

It may look like they are overlapping but they are not. The spacing actually works out perfectly from the doorway to the back wall (The vanity and toilet and tub will go along the back wall) Should I leave the tiles where they are or should I move them forward into the door opening?

Thanks for you pointers about the saddle.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Whenever transitioning from one flooring material to another, I always make the transition right under the door when it is in a closed position. That way you don't see the hallway floor when you're in the bathroom, or vice-versa. So, I'd wrap the tile into the door jamb a little bit.

The threshold shouldn't be any taller than it has to be. Bob's suggestion to cut a slope or taper in it is a good idea.

Yes, the threshold can sit on the hardwood. I would use 3 or 4 screws to attach it, and would fill the holes with wood plugs cut and sanded flush.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

The "Rule-of-Thumb" is to split the door thickness. Make the change under the center of the door.

With that much of an elevation-change a wood "custom made reducer threshhold" would probably be the better choice. The threshhold would meet the tile under the door center.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

It may be different by regions, but around here the rule to change under the closed door does not apply to bathrooms. Traditionally bathroom doorways got a marble threshold. For the last 10-15 years people have become more stylish and so less willing to except the standard white or travertine threshold because they may not go with their flooring. Many times we don't install a threshold, but run the tiles to the outer edge of the jamb and end it with a tile edging metal trim. 

In this case I would go with a full-width threshold made of marble as described above or fashion one from wood to taper and blend with the hardwood.

Jaz


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## jelly (Oct 19, 2007)

I like the easiest recommendation... I am going to get 5/4 peice of oak and ramp it down from 1-1/16" to 1/4", adhere it with liquid nail and 4 wood screws. 

I accidentally stepped on one of the tiles in the picture above and since there was a low spot, it cracked. The floor is extremely flat but there are some small low/high spots. Will the marble adhesive mortar fill these voids?


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Thanks for mentioning those tiles are marble, I hadn't noticed that before. Obviously the floor is not extremely flat, but regardless, they will break if stepped on. What's the size of those spacers you're planning to use? They appear to be about an eighth from here. If so I think too wide.

Jaz


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## jelly (Oct 19, 2007)

I trust the adhesive mortar will fill in the low spots. 

The spacers are 3/16 but I planned on getting 1/8. you think I should get 1/16?


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Yes 1/16" is the way to go. With 1/16" spacers the finished grout line will be 1/8" or a little more because of the chamfered edges. Be sure to use unsanded grout. 

The white powder thinset will tend to fill very minor dips in the floor. If you have humps, you need to fix them first tho. The floor needs to be flat within 1/16" of an inch in 12". Otherwise you're going to find out all about lippage.

Jaz


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## jelly (Oct 19, 2007)

Thank you for your time guys.


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## baldmagicguy (Jul 22, 2008)

*Threshold question*

Hey Jelly,

I'm curious to know how you made out on your threshold. By chance do you have a pic of the finished product?

I'm in a similar situation where I have difference in height between our family room and the bathroom I built. The bathroom floor is about 1 inch higher than the family room floor. The advice offered to you seemed pretty good. I'm just curious to know if it worked for you or if you came up with another solution.

Regards,
Marty
St. Louis, MO



jelly said:


> Hi, As you can see in the attached pictures, I have a variance between my radiant bathroom floor and hardwood in the hallway.
> 
> 1) The hardwood goes in the door jam area, can the threshold sit on the hardwood? Is so, what can be used to adhere the marble and wood?
> 
> ...


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## jelly (Oct 19, 2007)

Hi Marty,

I ended up using a 3" piece of marble for my threshold. I screwed down a piece of wire mesh to the hardwood floor, laid some mud and set the marble. It was cheap, it was easy and it pleased the wife. Win.

Good luck with your project. Please feel free to ask questions.

Andy


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