# is my sheathing rotting? *pics*



## Nospammer (Jun 16, 2011)

I'm in the pacific NW so it's really wet here but I don't know what to expect in terms of how wet the sheathing should be but I did discover mold along exterior walls in bedrooms when moving some boxes. I washed the walls with bleach, moved the boxes away from the exterior walls & opened windows/ circulated air with fans.
Next, I did an attic inspection for moisture and mold 2 weeks ago and found moisture & mold in attic sheathing and on mold on rafters. 
I discovered the bathroom exhaust duct was not vented through the roof. 
It stopped short a few inches from a screened vent. It seemed to explain the excess moisture in that part of the attic. 
I Installed a proper duct with it's own termination cap through the roof. I gave it a week to see if humidity would go down but it stayed a steady 78% so I Installed an additional roof vent to create more ventilation to help dry out the attic. I noticed exposed staples on the roof so I covered them with roof cement yesterday in hopes that it would prevent water from getting in.

While starting to clean mold in the attic today, I noticed the mold was extensive. Some of the sheathing is starting to dry but I have some concerns...
*1. on the sheathing that's starting to dry, the outer layer looks and feels brittle (is this dry rot?)
2. some of the sheathing isn't flush with each piece (buckling from getting wet then dry?)
3. some rafters look like they have signs of dry rot*

Upon my examination of the attic I'm wondering if the roof (sheathing&rafters) need to be replaced but I need advice on how bad or not the condition of the roof is as this is all new to me. I don't want to fall thru the roof when I go up there to clean the chimney & I don't want it to leak and contaminate the home with mold.

*Do I need to any or all of these:
1. replace potentially dry rotting sheathing
2. "sister" dry rotting rafters
3. dispose of cellulose insulation because of mold*

The insulation is not wet but I think some of it may have mold on it.
The home was built in the 80's and from my reading I discovered that plywood made today is of a lesser quality so mold would eat through the new plywood very quickly if it were to return.

Your advice is much appreciated. Please "dumb down" your responses as I am a novice to home repairs & terminology.

Thanks


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

From those pictures, yes you do have serious issues that need serious attention. Much of that sheeting looks like it has lost all structural integrity. That must have been ongoing since the house was built. 

Dunno about the insulation but if it looks bad it is one of your easiest and least expensive elements there to remedy. That all looks like more than just a bathroom vent issue.


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## chb70 (Jan 29, 2009)

> *Do I need to any or all of these:*
> *1. replace potentially dry rotting sheathing*
> *2. "sister" dry rotting rafters*
> *3. dispose of cellulose insulation because of mold*


*You seem to have spotted all the damage correctly, definitely fix *
*#1 and #2 and # 3 just pull out insulation in that area and replace.*

*Complete Roof*
*Can You Dig It !*


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

yes you have a serious problem ..its rotting..address it now:yes:


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## ptraz (Feb 26, 2010)

You definitly need to replace whatever wood is damaged and the insulation, however if you don't fix your moisture issue you'll have the same problem again. Your bathroom vent was probably not the problem but it didn't help matters any. You said you added a roof vent. How many do you have, and more importantly do you have vented soffits. You need good airflow through the attic to keep the moisture down and to not grow mold. If you have vented soffits check that they aren't blocked with insulation. If you don't have them you'll need to do more than just have a roof vent.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You have a serious water issue. The mold near the fan is localized, the ridge wet could be condensation OR roofing missing. You should not be able to see "staples" showing, that usually is shingles missing as they are overlapped with the next course- covering the fasteners completely.

An outside picture would help, about 6' away---- only if you are comfortable up there!

Gary
P.S. need more inside pics as well...


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

is this a modular or factory built home ?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

WoWsers...?!?!

You have some issues there. More pictures would be helpful as well as pictures of where the mold is concentrated.

You have had a system moisture, either bulk or humidity, issue that was not handled by the roof or the ventilation.

Those all need to be addressed in conjunction with the re-framing of that roof and the re-sheeting of that roof.

I would not sister lumber to those failed trusses. Re-build them.


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## Nospammer (Jun 16, 2011)

Thanks for your replies. What a headache. It's a stick built home. I have 4 roof vents and there are soffit vents on both sides of the attic. There's mold on almost every rafter...harder to tell how much is on the sheathing but it's extensive. Most of the insulation feels/looks dry but hard to tell how much mold is on it.
I'll post more pics soon.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Some of the roof it's self would be nice.


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## Nospammer (Jun 16, 2011)

*roof pics*

Here are the roof pics.


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## Nospammer (Jun 16, 2011)

*roof pics 2*

...and a couple more roof pics


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## dougger222 (Feb 25, 2011)

Looks like it could be trapped moisture from inside the attic area. A hot roof could be the cause as well as exhaust vents being dumped into the attic area. If your climate gets below freezing in the Winter this can cause this issue.

Houses with these problems I most often see the most rot on the upper part of the roof structure. By the looks of it in your pics I see even trusses that show some rot, not good!

Of course an inproperly installed roof system can also cause water to leak in and cause this.


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## builttolast (Feb 9, 2012)

Others are correct, also - The EXPOSED NAILS ON THE VENT BOOTS AND TIE-BACKS on the stack NEED TO BE SEALED (caulked over with roofing caulk so seal out moisture/water) ALSO, it is NOT a good idea to run a nail through a shingle when it is exposed to the weather as water can get into it ESPECIALLY as the nail rusts.


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

your roof is shot.

you do not have enough vents.

You need to remove all of the plywood,some of the trusses need attention and you need new shingles with a ridge vent. On to of that, most likely you do not have enough soffit venting.

I would suggest you do something in the near future.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

How about a picture tour of under the eves including a shot from the attic.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1 

More pictures are helpful but I would certainly prepare yourself of new roof, plywood, some structure, and proper venting.


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## House Engineer (Feb 23, 2012)

Looks like your neighbors have similar roofs. Do they have the same attic problems that you are having?

Is your roof slope less than 4:12? If so, do you have a water-proof shingle underlayment installed?

Do you have a vapor barrier between the house and the attic? Do you have gaps or openings in the ceiling that vent warm,moist house air into the attic?

Do you have gable end vents or any power ventilators in the attic?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Well As one from the Pacific North west I can tell you right now.
1 Not enough ventilation
2. you got some real truss failure happening
3. your roof is failed.
4 you need gable vents.
5. your looking at ton of money to fix this problem!


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## Dannyphila (Feb 27, 2012)

You must becarefull removing the roof and wood. Is the rake exposed you have way to many penatrations in that roof. It has to be vented at the sofit and at the ridge. If you have children I would have mold special lest come out becouse it won't be air born intill you start rippen it up.Ice and water shield the whole roof 3/4 plywood becouse your roof is sagen with that 1/2" and use a Demential shingle and make shore they book them when installing them.The probley just cut of 6"off the full shingle that why u have alot of ur problem. Just make sure they are installed right.And spray foam installation would seal the deal but u must have the proper ventilation.If you really want to invest in you'r home a Metal a steel roof could save u Depending on your insurance carrier up to 35% on ur homeowners policy.Most are Energy Star Rating and qualify for Energy Tax Credit and in the summer you can save up to 40% on your summertime cooling costs especially in warm climate. And adds alot more value to ur home.And u have no dormers so that will save u money they are all cut to the same size in house. And u can all that moss won't grow on it. And aluminum Roofs also they come in about 30 Standerd colors 30yr Warranty on color fading you can get ur facia trim gutters with aluminum and they can look like wood shakes,Tiles,shingles even copper BEST OF LUCK TO YOU


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## Dannyphila (Feb 27, 2012)

dougger222 said:


> Looks like it could be trapped moisture from inside the attic area. A hot roof could be the cause as well as exhaust vents being dumped into the attic area. If your climate gets below freezing in the Winter this can cause this issue.
> 
> Houses with these problems I most often see the most rot on the upper part of the roof structure. By the looks of it in your pics I see even trusses that show some rot, not good!
> 
> Of course an inproperly installed roof system can also cause water to leak in and cause this.


Doug how you doing I'm new to this app. I have worked in my family roofing business doing commercial work for 20yrs now. I have put on every roofing system their is I was just wondering how somebody could put a HOT Roof on this house I work with hot just about every day. I love to learn new stuff every day if they did or could put down a 1ply modified cap sheet down first then I don't think that would leak but handling hot on a A Frame roof dangerous. How would you stage that set up let me no. Becouse I like learning new stuff Thanks Doug

Sent from my iPhone using DIY Forum


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## PAHome (Feb 16, 2012)

I agree with Framer52. From the pictures you provided the roof looks like its at the end of its useful life. You definitely have a moisture issue and I think its a ventilation problem. 

I would recommend a new roof with a ridge-vent. Make sure the soffit vents are clear.

www.pa-homeimprovements.com
PA Home Improvements Inc.
764 North 9th Street 
Stroudsburg PA 18360
"your local roofing experts"
570-484-ROOF​


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## Nospammer (Jun 16, 2011)

Some of the neighbors with newer roofs seem to have more attic vents. My roof slopes 5:12...so I dont know if there's a water-proof shingle underlayment. Thanks for pointing that out. 
I had several fans plugged in up there yesterday and will run them again today to try to get more circulation to dry it out, since the sun is out.
There's no vapor barrier, just cellulose insulation along the attic floor. What kind of barrier is recommended? The attic is accessed by an opening in the ceiling with a piece of drywall acting as a door. I put plastic underneath to create seal until a more permanent door is constructed.
No gable vents or attic fans. How effective are attic fans in reducing humidity? 





House Engineer said:


> Looks like your neighbors have similar roofs. Do they have the same attic problems that you are having?
> 
> Is your roof slope less than 4:12? If so, do you have a water-proof shingle underlayment installed?
> 
> ...


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## PAHome (Feb 16, 2012)

Some power roof vents now come with optional humidistat which acts like a thermostat but responds to humidity in the attic.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Nospammer said:


> Some of the neighbors with newer roofs seem to have more attic vents. My roof slopes 5:12...so I dont know if there's a water-proof shingle underlayment. Thanks for pointing that out.
> I had several fans plugged in up there yesterday and will run them again today to try to get more circulation to dry it out, since the sun is out.
> There's no vapor barrier, just cellulose insulation along the attic floor. What kind of barrier is recommended? The attic is accessed by an opening in the ceiling with a piece of drywall acting as a door. I put plastic underneath to create seal until a more permanent door is constructed.
> No gable vents or attic fans. How effective are attic fans in reducing humidity?


Don't worry about a vapor barrier in this case.

Fix the venting and get the attic floor air sealed so that you prevent the bulk moisture transfer.


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