# Curbless Shower Bathroom Build in This Old House



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Now that I have the rest of the stuff out of the way!


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How bouncy is that floor?


So is the plan to lower the shower floor to the level of the beams?


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Neal,

This thing was a damn bounce house :wink2: After I took the closet wall out.
I crawled under the house and added a few pier pours and supports.

The remaining boards that I cut out end half way on to the beam. Letting one complete 4x8 - 1 1/8" sheet of plywood sit over the beams. 

Also I added 2x6 brackets 12" O.C. for more support.

*MAYBE: I should add another pier pours under the 2x6 and cross support them with a 4x8? (Probably OVERKILL... Idk.) What do you think?

*



I removed 5/8" underlayment and 1 1/2" subfloor = - 2 1/8"

Add 1 1/8" Plywood and the KERDI pan 1 1/8" + 1 1/4" = 2 3/8"


Now that should put me a 1/4" above the subfloor and sheeting in the rest of the room. When I add the 1/4" Ditra Heat to the rest of the bathroom I should be FLUSH FLUSH!



:vs_cool: HOW BOUT' DAT??:biggrin2: 


Another Project.... :vs_laugh:



Nealtw said:


> How bouncy is that floor?
> 
> 
> So is the plan to lower the shower floor to the level of the beams?


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

If only I could upload video clips on here....

The window in the pic will become the shower niche.

What you think?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JPeters said:


> If only I could upload video clips on here....
> 
> The window in the pic will become the shower niche.
> 
> What you think?


A niche in the exterior wall?


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> A niche in the exterior wall?


Yeah!..... Is that a bad idea?lain:


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JPeters said:


> Yeah!..... Is that a bad idea?lain:


Insulation?


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> Insulation?


Honestly... The shower Niche will be in a 4'x 8" space in the area of the current window. I was not going to install insulation because I would loose my depth. 

However! The Boss (GF) and I where talking and when I start to reside the house I was going to look into adding exterior insulation under the siding...…...:glasses:


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Here is the working drawing. :vs_laugh:


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JPeters said:


> Honestly... The shower Niche will be in a 4'x 8" space in the area of the current window. I was not going to install insulation because I would loose my depth.
> 
> However! The Boss (GF) and I where talking and when I start to reside the house I was going to look into adding exterior insulation under the siding...…...:glasses:


Then I would frame out the wall 1 1/2" and add an 1 12/" foam to the back of the niche.


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Got more done Last night.. 

Should be able to get the floor sheeted. Then stand walls. 

Kerdi is on hold. JUST until I have it all framed up. :devil3:

*Next adventure frame wall s for pocket doors!
*


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> Then I would frame out the wall 1 1/2" and add an 1 12/" foam to the back of the niche.


what do you thin about 1/4 rigid?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JPeters said:


> what do you thin about 1/4 rigid?


I think it has an R value of 1, less than a window. How do you like frozen shampoo.:biggrin2:


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Nealtw said:


> I think it has an R value of 1, less than a window. How do you like frozen shampoo.:biggrin2:


IDK if you can tell in the picture.... I can defiantly deal with some frozen shampoo... and its getting easier and easier each year! :vs_laugh:


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

@Nealtw

here is a picture of what I am Trying to do.

plumbing vents, toilet, shower - Yellow

framing - red

pocket door - violet


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JPeters said:


> @*Nealtw*
> 
> here is a picture of what I am Trying to do.
> 
> ...



I would put it on the end with the shower head and you never knock stuff off the shelf with your elbow.


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

With The 2x6 wall I'm Sure I could make a Niche and get the valve and the rain shower head etc behind it.



Nealtw said:


> I would put it on the end with the shower head and you never knock stuff off the shelf with your elbow.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JPeters said:


> With The 2x6 wall I'm Sure I could make a Niche and get the valve and the rain shower head etc behind it.


Or go around it. :wink2:


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

Sunday Free time update. @Nealtw You win! Relocate of the niche will happen :smile:


----------



## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

I do not see any blocking for adding hand or grab bars in the future. Bars are seldom in 16" or 32" lengths and the studs are not likely to be where you want a grab bar end connection in any case. 

R Value of glass insulation with 2x4 studs is about R-2 and the best way to get more insulating value is to use a 2-part foam instead which provides more than 3x the insulating value and is easily applied to small sections as with bathroom framing. 

If you are using a shower with jets and a hand spray it is a good idea to have the plumbing done to create a pressure balancing loop.


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

@Calson

Have you done any Kerdi pans? I'm looking for info on a Kerdi pan and Hardi board walls.


----------



## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

You could make your own shower pan, drop the sub floor and pack a pre slope pan to the drain's weep holes. Waterproof it with a pan liner liquid waterproofing membrane. Detail the corners first with something like eternabond tape. Heres a visual aid.

Lowered sub floor.









Pre slope pan to drain weep system









Wrap all transitions with crack suppression (eternabond tape, or similar)









Place eternabond tape over weep/drain cut holes for drain flange bolts









Apply liquid waterproofing 









Now you're ready to pack your shower pan over it, if you ever have a leak with the shower pan theres a back up (no leaky leaky)


----------



## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

Repeat all the above steps, slope pan to drain. Detail corners, apply liquid waterproofing.










Install drain, if linear drain pack after pan has a cured a day









Then waterproof entire floor


----------



## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

Finish walls with hardi backer, or other material, and waterproof that. I installed 30# roofing felt behind my shower walls and layed it over the waterproofing in the corners like a shingle for watershed. Also leave walls about 1/2" above pan so water doesnt wick up.


----------



## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

Everything slopes to the drain. I have about 1/16" per foot on the bathroom floor and 1/4" per foot in the shower. I also installed a left and right shower screen so I dont really have much water that gets out of the shower area.


----------



## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

Yes, I removed all drywall materials from the shower surround. Everything is durock in the shower.


----------



## StGRemodeling (Jul 3, 2019)

I like the window becoming the shower niche! That'll be real nice!


----------



## JPeters (May 14, 2015)

This is what I'm planning on doing for the floor in the master bath


----------



## tdisss (Aug 22, 2019)

Will you consider to use 1/2" Kerdi board instead of Hardi board for the wall? It's full 2'x4' panel. Light and easy to cut. You just need to apply Kerdi bands at board seams and screws. You will add in additional R-2 of insulation value and will make a shower enclosure more comfortable.

It’s an approved backing for Kerdi band to provide waterproofing at wall and Kerdi pan intersection


This way you would be mixing two systems of waterproofing - RedGuard and Kerdi witch is not tested, warranted or recommended by both manufacturers.

This is what I did for my master bathroom - minus the curb in your case.


----------

