# Proper transition between shed roof and shingled roof?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Looks more to me like someone layed the roofing over the first two rows of shingles.

That low a pitch should have had EPDM, or metal roofing.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

I agree with the EPDM recommendation. As for the ice and water, Grace Ultra is about the best there is in my opinion.


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## aribert (Apr 7, 2012)

Thanks for the replys. I did not consider that there might be a layer of shingles under the beginning of the shed roof. I know that they did not remove any shingles before they added the shed roof. WHen I went to cut some decking out to ventilate the shed attic into the main attic, I had to cut thru shingles also.

As far as a metal roof - I had never considered that. The only metal roofing that I have experince with is where the fasteners have a rubber sealing washer under the screw head and they are driven thru the metal (my father's machinery shed has such a roof w/ about the same pitch and I get to go up on the roof to seal leaking fasteners when I go down to visit them). Are there metal roofs that use some type of a "hidden" fastening system - so I can avoid that leak path? Also, how would I transition between the shingles to the metal?

With respect to an EPDM membrane roof - I have not looked into that. My preference is a roofing solution that I coud do myself. Would I be able to walk on it aafterwards in order to redo the shingle roof? Would I need to lay down plywood sheeting as a protective work surface to avoid damaging the EPDM during the tear-off?


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2008)

The only metal roof you would want on that shed would be a soldered flat lock seam roof.










For DIY, your best bet would be a self adhered (peel and stick) modified bitumen.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

You could also use a mechanically seamed standing metal roof as well.


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2008)

> You could also use a mechanically seamed standing metal roof as well.


Not quite a DIY installation. And much more difficult at the transition even if the pitch would allow for a standing seam.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

[email protected] said:


> Not quite a DIY installation. And much more difficult at the transition even if the pitch would allow for a standing seam.


Agreed.

I was just pointing out there are additional options in metal.

I hope to goodness the DIY'er is attempting soldered flat lock.


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## mgp roofing (Aug 15, 2011)

Windows on Wash said:


> You could also use a mechanically seamed standing metal roof as well.


There are a couple of systems here that use hidden clips that you clip over the edge of the sheet, nail to the purlin then press the next sheet onto the clips. Perfect for a roof like this if you don't want to go the membrane route. The only membranes I can recommend are not DIY install.
Here's one of the secret fix metal systems http://www.metalcraft.net.nz/products.aspx?category=2&product=12572
You'll need to strip the old roof down to the deck & apply a breathable underlay before laying the metal. Flashings will need to be made to weatherproof the barges and where the metal meets the shingles.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Be careful with that I&W Shield! If you use EPDM, they're not compatible, nor will it be necessary. Run the EPDM up the roof about3' above the tranition and add a sacrificial sheet, then start the shingles 2' up from the transition.

I just nail the top edge of the sacrificial sheet and use 4500 geocel near the lower edge so the wind can't get it. The geocel doesn't have to be continous.


Do the same thing if you decide to go with a SBS self-adhered roof.

BTW, the lightest, cheapest EPDM worth using on anything is .060 reinforced.


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