# Traction control engaging when turning wheel



## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

I have a 2013 Impala and there has been an ongoing problem with the traction control kicking in when I take off from a stop and turn the wheel to the left. It never happens when turning to the right.

You hear a "grunt" sound from the left front of the car, and the traction control indicator lights up on the dash for a moment.

I had it in for a diagnostics a couple years ago and they determined it was one of the 2 front wheel bearings or one of the ABS wires (thanks for telling me what I already knew lain but since then, I have replaced both front left wheel bearings, and the ABS wire harness on the front left. The problem never went away and seems to be getting worse lately.

The only thing I have not changed since is the front right harness but the sound always comes from the left.

Any ideas what could be causing this and where to look next?

Thanks


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Is the noise when the traction control light illuminates? If so, it is probably the ABS module firing and pumping that brake caliper. For some reason, the computer is seeing a differential wheel speed. Whether that be sensor, harness, or something else...that sounds like what it is seeing. Are there any click noises out of the axle? is the wheel sensor clean and installed correctly? Is the ring on the axle clean?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Yes, the noise is when the traction control light comes on.

No click noises and I don't know about the axle ring being clean. The wheel sensor is part of the ABS wheel bearing is it not? That was brand new when I put it in and I would have to imagine it's installed correctly. The first front left wheel bearing I replaced at 100,000 miles was done at a shop and the problem was still there. Car now has 160,000 and another new front left wheel bearing about a month ago.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Yes, ABS sensor is same as wheel sensor. You should also have speedo sensor where axle enters transmission. 

But you already know that.
You have to figure out why hub bearing keeps going out on one side - if this is indeed happening. That points towards some sort of general side structural damage, causing undue strain on the side, damaging hub/bearing. 

I think, you are treating symptoms, not the root cause. This needs to be seen by suspension/body specialist, not by regular mech. Entire vehicle geometry needs to be checked out.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Well, the 2 wheel bearings were replaced 60,000 miles apart, possibly 70,000, and it was just the least expensive one from an auto parts store, not to mention that my daily route through the city is a rough road in need of repairs so my suspension takes a beating.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

How many times has he replaced the hub bearings? I only read it as once?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Scan the ABS system to get codes.:vs_cool:


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Windows on Wash said:


> How many times has he replaced the hub bearings? I only read it as once?


Twice on the left, 60-70,000 miles in between, and once on the right.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Brainbucket said:


> Scan the ABS system to get codes.:vs_cool:


Some shop with Tech 2 scanner, preferably.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Richo said:


> Twice on the left, 60-70,000 miles in between, and once on the right.



While you can sometimes go a lifetime without replacing one, 60-70K on them is not unheard of and especially when you figure some of the crap in the aftermarket. 

i have replaced hub bearing in my truck multiple times.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

I am commuting in 98 vehicle with 184 000 miles on crap for roads and original control arms and hubs. With no signs of something going wrong so far. Knock.
As I stated before, you have something causing premature wear of suspension components. 

Surely, read ABS codes, no harm there. You likely will find a sensor or else showing as bad.
Dandy, but *why* they keep going bad?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Pretty sure they make them replaceable because they fail from time to time. Two in 140K might be accelerated, but I would based the conclusion that the front end is tweaked on that fact alone. 

@Richo are you the original owner of the car? Any accidents?

There are a bunch of videos of guys replacing hub bearings on these cars so it is clearly something that does fail on these cars. 

I would also be suspect of the firing of the traction control possibly accelerating the failure rate of that bearing.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Yes, original owner of the car, no accidents. Might be a GM thing. I replaced wheel bearings on my last 3 cars at close to 100K as well as my wife's G6.

I did have the ABS system scanned when this first started happening. They told me it was the wheel bearing or the harness, both of which have been replaced since.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Watch that video above. He traces it back to an open short.


I meant to say above that _*"I wouldn't base the conclusion that the front end is tweaked on that fact alone."*_


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Get a scanner where you can see the wheel speed sensors mph and drive it. The bad sensor will raise it's ugly head in the turn. Scan for codes now. It could be a rear speed sensor. Who knows until you see the speed sensors working.:vs_cool:


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Well, and how exactly is axle shaft? That's a front wheel drive car, right? Axle shaft has exciter ring on CV hub. If axle shaft is going bad or is bad and sort of stays in "badded" condition, ring might vibrate or plain and simple be damaged. 

I am presuming you checked for things like rubbing marks on the frame/tire well? Got to be very observant around CV joint hub and hub to control arm area.
Also, is that noise coming in FULL turn or in any left turn, full or partial? How is lower ball joint?


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Richo said:


> Yes, original owner of the car, no accidents. Might be a GM thing. I replaced wheel bearings on my last 3 cars at close to 100K as well as my wife's G6.
> 
> I did have the ABS system scanned when this first started happening. They told me it was the wheel bearing or the harness, both of which have been replaced since.


Harness jumps out at me because I had a 2000 Grand Prix that had issues a lot with the 'Lowtrac' light coming on. Had it scanned and they said replace the left rear speed sensor. I did and it was still on. Guy who scanned it said I must have gotten a faulty one. I didn't bite. Jacked the car up and started chasing the wiring. Finally found a cut in the rear ABS harness. It was cut up next to the floor where nothing could have hit it. Came from the factory like that. ABS pig tails are sold separately for these cars. The front harnesses are more problematic than the rear because of the steering movement.

Scanner can't tell a broken wire. Only that there is no signal from the sensor.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Have you tried pulling the fuse.?

You might find out that traction control or ABS is not really needed.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Mike Milam said:


> Harness jumps out at me because I had a 2000 Grand Prix that had issues a lot with the 'Lowtrac' light coming on. Had it scanned and they said replace the left rear speed sensor. I did and it was still on. Guy who scanned it said I must have gotten a faulty one. I didn't bite. Jacked the car up and started chasing the wiring. Finally found a cut in the rear ABS harness. It was cut up next to the floor where nothing could have hit it. Came from the factory like that. ABS pig tails are sold separately for these cars. The front harnesses are more problematic than the rear because of the steering movement.
> 
> Scanner can't tell a broken wire. Only that there is no signal from the sensor.


Is it common for the wheel that makes the noise to be the problem area? It's always front left and I replaced that harness a couple years ago.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

If there is noise, that needs to addressed regardless if it's causing the lowtrac light to be on or not. 

That same Pontiac had a CV joint go bad (oddly enough, it was the left front), but there was no noise. If I was cruising along and let off the gas and then applied it again, I felt a slight bump similar to a bad u-joint in a RWD car. Not to say that's your problem, but something to keep in the back of your mind. I just replaced that half shaft. 

If it's a constant growl or howling noise, it's most likely the hub bearing.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

It's just the regular "grunt" noise it normally makes when the traction control kicks in on slippery roads. It's not a constant noise.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

It's not only at full turn and going, say into a driveway, is it? If it happens then, it's most likely the steering stops. At full turn the steering knuckle makes contact with a spot on the lower control arm. That is steel to steel contact and it will groan.

It's difficult to know from a distance like this, lol. I know it's hard to describe sounds.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

No, it's not at full turn. It happens when the wheel is turned to the left while taking off from a stop, most times right after putting it in drive after backing out of the driveway or a parking space.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Richo said:


> No, it's not at full turn. It happens when the wheel is turned to the left while taking off from a stop, most times right after putting it in drive after backing out of the driveway or a parking space.


Have you tried releasing the brake faster.?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

ron45 said:


> Have you tried releasing the brake faster.?


I release it as soon as I shift into drive


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Richo said:


> I release it as soon as I shift into drive


This maybe asking a lot.
Can you make a short video of it.?

Damn, I know for sure I can't.

Maybe somebody here could help with that.?


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