# How To? - Repair Damaged Curb



## JBG420 (Aug 27, 2011)

Hi All,

I've never mixed a bag of concrete but am willing to try. My curbs are in pretty bad shape, and have been patched by previous owners over the years. This winter, a large chunk broke loose and I have no idea how to even attempt to repair this. Can anyone give me some suggestions, tips, or advice? Image attached.

Thanks for the help!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Road and street repair crews are in a dangerous zone. Maybe if you winked at the gal at the city offices she could pull some strings and get you some help.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Around here that would be called city property. 

You are not to touch city property without a lengthy process through the city maintenance department, or get a fine and have to pay the city to tear out your repair and build it back with their crew. 

So consult your city maintenance office before doing anything but mowing their grass. 

Which is if you do not mow their grass they fine you for that too.

ED


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

besides, IF you were to make repairs properly using the right materials, you're probably do it better than municipal crews :laughing:

in im-n-s-h-fo, just complain


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

the only way to properly fix that, is to take out the whole section. and put complete new.


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## JBG420 (Aug 27, 2011)

Fix'n it said:


> the only way to properly fix that, is to take out the whole section. and put complete new.


can you elaborate on that? i'm assuming i would need to pour concrete, and build some sort of frame to hold the cement in place while it dries? thanks.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

JBG420 said:


> can you elaborate on that? i'm assuming i would need to pour concrete, and build some sort of frame to hold the cement in place while it dries? thanks.


Ayuh,.... That's right,.... Ya gotta build forms, no matter what,....

I agree with the others though,...

That Ain't yer curb to fix,....
It belongs to the institution that owns the Road,....


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## JBG420 (Aug 27, 2011)

While I can appreciate everyone saying it isn't my responsibility, I would suggest that every municipality/town/city/state is different, and making such a blanket statement is irresponsible.

Case in point - I AM required to fix this. It is not the Borough's responsibility in which I live.

Taken right from the ordinances:

_Whenever any sidewalk, curb, handicap ramp, and/or driveway apron shall become out of repair or require replacement or, if absent, require installation of same, it shall be the responsibility of the owner of such property or properties to repair, reconstruct or install sidewalk, curb, handicap ramps, and/or driveway apron, as directed by the Borough Code Enforcement Office. The property owner is hereby required and enjoined to repair the same with concrete or, in the alternative, with said materials with which said curb or sidewalk had been constructed if such alternative material shall be approved by the Codes Office. Appropriate construction details must be submitted for review by the Borough Engineer. The cost of repairing, replacing and/or installing said curb, sidewalk, handicap ramps, and driveway apron, or any of them, shall be paid in each and every case by the owner of the property affected._

Thanks anyway I guess.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... That's right,.... Ya gotta build forms, no matter what,....
> 
> I agree with the others though,...
> 
> ...


Around here, it belongs to the property owner. And is up to the property owner to fix/replace.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

As you say each municipality has their own rules. 

Now that we know it is your responsibility, we will try to help. First 

I will suggest that you see if their is a small company there that specializes in Curb and gutter repair. 

You said that you have never mixed a bag of concrete and do not know where to start. 
First you need to know that uncured concrete is a caustic substance and if you get it on yourself or others get it cleaned off immediately. 

Now you are going to need to remove some of the grassy area to get room to work, also remove a section of the old curb a few feet past the degraded, cut it squarely with a concrete saw, Then prepare a solid base of gravel tamped securely. then a little sand on top of that, now for the forms, you need enough solid lumber to span past the cutout, secure it to the existing curb, at the back and the front on both ends. Stakes usually are used for this, and wired tightly to each front and back in no more than 4 feet apart for support. You will need a trowel for concrete work, a putty knife even a wide one just will not be adequate. 

As for how much you will need you will need to figure the volume of the cavity that you want to fill then add just a bit more due to the probable unevenness of the bottom of the hole. Get enough bags to fill this, A wheelbarrow to mix in a bucket to measure the water specified on each bag as to how much is required , mix enough to fill the hole, you may need to mix more than one time to get enough mud to fill, and pour it all together, do not let a portion cure and try to add more , it will not stick together. 
When mixing make sure that all is mixed evenly, no lumps no soupy spots, no foreign matter. 

Fill evenly no air voids, or over filling. 
Trowel smooth, then use a broom to lightly sweep a pattern in it if desired, but not necessary. 

As I stated at the beginning a Curb crew can and will be your best choice on this, but if you choose to D I Y it can be done. just not easily. 

And have a good time.

ED


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

But are you sure you are the owner of that land? In front of my house, that section is owned by the city (the first about 10'), and then they have an easement on the next 8' of my property.

I mean... do you have a survey that says your property-line ends at the street, or are you just assuming that?


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## Visvire (Dec 28, 2012)

*2 to 1*

Here's what i would do - get a long 2 by 4 or whatever matches the height of that curb - - get a 10$ bag of portland cemet and mix 1 to 2 with a bag of sand. - you can also get an edger from lowes or home depot for about 5 bucks. sponge or paint brush finish.


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Visvire said:


> Here's what i would do - get a long 2 by 4 or whatever matches the height of that curb - - get a 10$ bag of portland cemet and mix 1 to 2 with a bag of sand. - you can also get an edger from lowes or home depot for about 5 bucks. sponge or paint brush finish.


Good idea except the 1st time somebody bumped it it would fall over because is not attached to anything and doesn't have a foundation.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I wonder what happened here. It has been a few days since the O P has responded to anything. I for one am curious as to what their decision was. 

:huh::huh: And am disappointed that this is left hanging in the wind.

ED


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

usually curbs/gutters are regular conc - perhaps w/air entrainment depending on geography,,, i'd cut back to sound conc, excavate, form, & place,,, doubt there's any rebar but, if it were mine, i'd stick in 1 short piece of #4 into ea end of the original to hold the repair in place 

an 80# bag of apron/vest conc = .67cf - you can easily figure out how many you need


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## nvycrmn (Mar 11, 2014)

well since the OP hasn't responded, let me post a question here. I am burying my sump discharge line/gutter downspout and running it to the street through the curb. My plan was to cut out an 8" section of curb, place the pvc (3") and then patch up and around the pipe using Quikrete fast setting mix...my curb is dam-shaped (flat in the back and sloped near the street) so I was going to mix it a little thick and hand form it to match the rest of the curb...thoughts/comments? I am also waiting to hear back about a core driller from a buddy of mine, would prefer to do that instead if possible!


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

we break the curb & patch it, too - & we do this work for a living :yes: 3" is large for a discharge for us - 2" is std for most pro waterproofers :thumbsup:

irc


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## nvycrmn (Mar 11, 2014)

irc

the only reason I went with 3" is because the downspout adapter went to a 4" so I reduced it to 3"...do you think I should reduce it further to 2"? And what do you guys use for patch, I was thinking fast setting quikrete, or will any cheap bag of concrete mix work?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

i suspect the downspout will discharge more water than your pump albeit for a shorter duration,,, if we did that, we'd use 3" too,,, sumps alone are 2" unless in a freezing clime & we can't bury deep enough,,, your selected mtl is fine but NOT hydraulic

irc


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## nvycrmn (Mar 11, 2014)

yeah, I have my sump (which is 1.5") running into the gutter system and will drain to the street that way. However, in the winter climate my town requires us to drain the sump to the yard so I have a flexible sump discharge line that I can hook into to drain to the yard (this way I have no water in the pipes when winter comes!) Will try to post pics...


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## nvycrmn (Mar 11, 2014)

here are a couple pics. I busted out the curb, approx. 3.5" wide, placed the pipe and surrounded with Portland...will take pics of it with the Portland tomorrow...


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## nvycrmn (Mar 11, 2014)

p.s. if anyone can tell me why all of my damn pics show up sideways, that would be greatly appreciated so I can fix it for your viewing pleasure! lol


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Try looking for a rotate button, when posting them. 


ED


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## nvycrmn (Mar 11, 2014)

Doesn't give me an option to. Just browse and upload. The pics are normal orientation in the album, just seem to post rotated every time I post pics...


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

nvycrmn said:


> Doesn't give me an option to. Just browse and upload. The pics are normal orientation in the album, just seem to post rotated every time I post pics...


i have to rotate the pic in my pic viewer. THEN advance to the next pic. or else the rotate doesn't "take".


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