# Replacing portions of bottom plate



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

I removed the drywall in a corner room ground floor and found termite damage. In the 2x4 bottom plate (sitting on concrete) running across the two exterior walls, a couple of short sections are badly damaged, but the rest of the bottom plate looks good (using the screwdriver test for hollowed out wood). A few of the studs also show sufficient signs of termite damage that sistering new studs is warranted. I had started a related thread on nails, but wanted to focus specifically on how to efficiently repair this damage.

Pics:




































Setting aside the termites (having an exterminator come) and moisture issues (will start a separate thread on that) - let's assume both are successfully resolved. At that point, I'll have to repair the damaged framing before installing drywall.

Rather than lifting up the upper plate and removing the entire bottom plate, I'm thinking of cutting out the bottom plate immediately adjacent to the stud that sits on damaged bottom plate, installing new section of bottom plate (pressure treated, and I assume I should brush the cut ends with some copper compound to make it less susceptible to termites), then installing new stud on top of the new bottom plate and sistering that new stud to the old damaged stud.

So for example, in the worst corner:








I'd cut each bottom plate at the red line (don't think there's enough access to use a sawzall due to the baseboard heating pipe), so I'll use an oscillating multi-tool and come in from above), and the other end of each cut would be close to the next stud over (so ~14" away, but just enough away to miss any toe nails). Then I'd remove that piece of 2x4 and replace it with pressure treated 2x4, and use a hammer drill and tapcon to secure it to the concrete. In this worst corner, it looks like there is practically no bottom plate left under the corner studs, so I can cut each treated 2x4 piece 1-1/2" longer and slide them under the corner studs.

Then install a new stud next to the damaged stud (2 such studs in the above pic) and sister to damaged stud, and toe nail to bottom plate and top plate.

Does this seem like a reasonably effective solution?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I think you said, it was supporting the floor or rafters above, I would build a temp wall so you can work on the whole wall with out any extra worry.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Think I would take the time to remove the heating pipe. It will make your job a little easier. Replace the section that is mangled. 

The red lines you have drawn in, not sure if that was just for the initial cut, but you obviously need to remove more of the base plate than what is outlined.


Have you inspected below for damage as well? If there is damage to floor joist, sill plate, or rim joist, probably best to start at the bottom and work up.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

He said in his other thread that the bottom plate is resting on a concrete floor with tile adhered. Unclear if the tile extends below the plate, but I would tend to doubt it. So no issue with floor joists.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> I think you said, it was supporting the floor or rafters above, I would build a temp wall so you can work on the whole wall with out any extra worry.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H8Vah5tyYQM


It's a corner room on the ground floor, so I imagine both walls are load bearing, even the one that runs parallel to the ceiling joists.

Thanks for the video - that certainly seems easier than building out an entire temporary wall frame. That said, I'm not sure it's necessary in order to replace the small sections I'm contemplating. On one wall, I'm thinking of removing 3 stud bays worth of floor plate (2 adjacent and 1 in that worst damage corner). And on the other wall, only 1 stud bay worth of floor plate (in that worst damage corner). In that corner with the worst damage, there is practically no floor plate under the vertical studs at the corner.

Maybe I'll do a smaller version of what the video shows - something to span 2 stud bays.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Yodaman said:


> Think I would take the time to remove the heating pipe. It will make your job a little easier. Replace the section that is mangled.


Yeah, we are going to replace the heating pipe - apparently the newer baseboard pipes/fins are more efficient, and as you note, the fins are pretty mangled in some spots, also the covers are in bad shape, so best to take this opportunity to replace baseboard heat in this room. But where the pipe goes down into the floor will remain, and that does make access in the corner a little more difficult, but as mentioned earlier, I think I can get in there with an oscillating multitool to cut the floor plate.



Yodaman said:


> The red lines you have drawn in, not sure if that was just for the initial cut, but you obviously need to remove more of the base plate than what is outlined.


I'd cut at the red lines, and then cut ~14" away from there (the floor plate at the next stud over on each wall is still good, so no need to remove/replace there). I'll dig out the debris under the corner studs (where the floor plate has been almost completely eaten away). Does that clarify what I'm trying to do here?



Yodaman said:


> Have you inspected below for damage as well? If there is damage to floor joist, sill plate, or rim joist, probably best to start at the bottom and work up.


Floor plates are sitting on concrete, so this is the bottom.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

huesmann said:


> He said in his other thread that the bottom plate is resting on a concrete floor with tile adhered. Unclear if the tile extends below the plate, but I would tend to doubt it. So no issue with floor joists.


Correct on both counts. Bottom plate is on the concrete, and the tile in the room stops just shy of the bottom plates.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> It's a corner room on the ground floor, so I imagine both walls are load bearing, even the one that runs parallel to the ceiling joists.
> 
> Thanks for the video - that certainly seems easier than building out an entire temporary wall frame. That said, I'm not sure it's necessary in order to replace the small sections I'm contemplating. On one wall, I'm thinking of removing 3 stud bays worth of floor plate (2 adjacent and 1 in that worst damage corner). And on the other wall, only 1 stud bay worth of floor plate (in that worst damage corner). In that corner with the worst damage, there is practically no floor plate under the vertical studs at the corner.
> 
> Maybe I'll do a smaller version of what the video shows - something to span 2 stud bays.


If you do the wall like in the video the box frame that is the floor above with rim joist will look after the end wall for 4 or 5 ft from the corner.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Be sure to use coated fasteners for anything penetrating treated lumber. It'll eat up uncoated steel in short order.


----------



## NotYerUncleBob2 (Dec 29, 2017)

jbrah said:


> I'd cut at the red lines, and then cut ~14" away from there (the floor plate at the next stud over on each wall is still good, so no need to remove/replace there). I'll dig out the debris under the corner studs (where the floor plate has been almost completely eaten away). Does that clarify what I'm trying to do here?


Just to be sure we're all on the same page...you do need to remove the rotted sill from under the corner studs and replace the sill so those studs are sitting on a new sill that can support them. Sistering studs and having those new studs be the only support for that corner is not sufficient. 
Supporting the floor above while doing this is _extremely_ important! Do not halfass it. 
The whole house probably won't come crashing down on you if you mess it up, but you will for sure wind up out of level and with some cracks if that corner isn't properly supported.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> If you do the wall like in the video the box frame that is the floor above with rim joist will look after the end wall for 4 or 5 ft from the corner.


Not sure I understand this, but you may already be answering the following question I have:

I get how the temporary support wall supports the ceiling joists running perpendicular to the temp wall. So if I set that temp wall a few feet from the exterior wall that is perpendicular to the ceiling joists, the joists will be supported, removing the load from the vertical studs and therefore the floor plate, which I can then cut out and replace.

But how would that work for the exterior wall that is parallel to the ceiling joists? Seems I can only support one joist, and if I support the nearest joist, I'll barely have any room to work. Seems like I'd have to build some kind of support for the top plates in order to deload the vertical studs and floor plate on that wall.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> Not sure I understand this, but you may already be answering the following question I have:
> 
> I get how the temporary support wall supports the ceiling joists running perpendicular to the temp wall. So if I set that temp wall a few feet from the exterior wall that is perpendicular to the ceiling joists, the joists will be supported, removing the load from the vertical studs and therefore the floor plate, which I can then cut out and replace.
> 
> But how would that work for the exterior wall that is parallel to the ceiling joists? Seems I can only support one joist, and if I support the nearest joist, I'll barely have any room to work. Seems like I'd have to build some kind of support for the top plates in order to deload the vertical studs and floor plate on that wall.


 Depending on how far you have to go around the corner with everything connected the first temp wall with take the weight off the side plate for a few feet. 

If you need more than that you screw a timber on the side wall to the studs and lift that wall at the same time


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Depending on how far you have to go around the corner with everything connected the first temp wall with take the weight off the side plate for a few feet.


The exterior wall parallel to the ceiling joists is ~10ft (in this room) and a section of the bottom plate on the far end of that wall has some damage (though not as bad as the corner where the two exterior walls meet). I'm thinking of replacing the entire length of bottom plate for both exterior walls.



Nealtw said:


> If you need more than that you screw a timber on the side wall to the studs and lift that wall at the same time


So I screw a 2x4 horizontally across the vertical studs on the side wall - at the very top of these vertical studs? How would I lift this while still having access to remove and replace the bottom plate?

Sorry for all the questions; first time doing something like this.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Prop up your (green) horizontal bar with some (purple) vertical ones (number depending how big a span you need to support).

If you find that the (red) studs sag a little, use a bottle jack under an additional vertical member to raise your horizontal bar in the (blue) location you're working at.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> The exterior wall parallel to the ceiling joists is ~10ft (in this room) and a section of the bottom plate on the far end of that wall has some damage (though not as bad as the corner where the two exterior walls meet). I'm thinking of replacing the entire length of bottom plate for both exterior walls.
> 
> So I screw a 2x4 horizontally across the vertical studs on the side wall - at the very top of these vertical studs? How would I lift this while still having access to remove and replace the bottom plate?
> 
> ...


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

huesmann said:


> Prop up your (green) horizontal bar with some (purple) vertical ones (number depending how big a span you need to support).
> 
> If you find that the (red) studs sag a little, use a bottle jack under an additional vertical member to raise your horizontal bar in the (blue) location you're working at.


OK, so horizontal 2x4 screwed into the vertical wall studs near the top, propped up by 2x4 studs that are directly underneath the horizontal stud.

If I understand that correctly, my question is how would I remove and replace the bottom plate? I could remove the bottom plate in small sections (who cares, it's getting trashed), but seems preferable to install new bottom plate in longest lengths that are feasible (less cutting and fewer concrete anchors to install).


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> jbrah said:
> 
> 
> > The exterior wall parallel to the ceiling joists is ~10ft (in this room) and a section of the bottom plate on the far end of that wall has some damage (though not as bad as the corner where the two exterior walls meet). I'm thinking of replacing the entire length of bottom plate for both exterior walls.
> ...


I'm a bit confused. There's no gable involved here - just a rectangular wall. Your diagram shows 2x4s supporting joists - I understand how to support the wall that runs perpendicular to the joists. I'm trying to understand how to effectively support the exterior wall that runs parallel to the ceiling joists (while still having room to remove the old bottom plate and install a new bottom plate).


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

I was taking a closer look at the bottom plates that need replacing and noticed that while the interior wall bottom plate appears to simply be a 2x4, both exterior walls have a strip (looks to be ~3/4" thick) that runs under a 2x4. What purpose does this serve?









Seems to me that if it didn't have any purpose, the builder would have just used a 2x4 and then cut the vertical studs 3/4" longer.

In this pic, you are looking at corner where an exterior wall (this one runs parallel to the ceiling joists) meets an interior wall. Looks like the bottom strip of the bottom plate is ~3/4" thick and since it's closer to the ground, the termites got to it before they got to the 2x4 that sits on it (in the sections where the termites were feasting).


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> I'm a bit confused. There's no gable involved here - just a rectangular wall. Your diagram shows 2x4s supporting joists - I understand how to support the wall that runs perpendicular to the joists. I'm trying to understand how to effectively support the exterior wall that runs parallel to the ceiling joists (while still having room to remove the old bottom plate and install a new bottom plate).



To lift the wall with the joists you want a top and bottom plate with studs a little long and hammer then in place top lift the wall.



The wall with out the joist above Screw a 2x4 to the wall high. tack the new plate lower on the wall so you have it inside where you need it. 

in three places place a 2x4 on the floor perpendicular to the wall. about a foot away from the wall. measure the distance from the floor 2x4 to the high wall 2x4 cut a stud 1/2" to long for that. put it under the high 2x4 and on the floor 2x4 and hammer it in until it takes the weight of the wall.
Usually 3 of those will do the job. 

You new plate can be done in pieces.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Actually, if the length of wall/ceiling that needs to be supported is less than 8', I would be tempted to just get a couple 4x4s and a floor jack, and set up a T-bar system that could be jacked up to the level I need, set a couple ft away from the wall so there's room to work.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> The wall with out the joist above Screw a 2x4 to the wall high. tack the new plate lower on the wall so you have it inside where you need it.


Clever! I was wondering how to maneuver the new plate inside the wall bracing. Placing it inside to begin with is an elegant solution.



Nealtw said:


> in three places place a 2x4 on the floor perpendicular to the wall. about a foot away from the wall. measure the distance from the floor 2x4 to the high wall 2x4 cut a stud 1/2" to long for that. put it under the high 2x4 and on the floor 2x4 and hammer it in until it takes the weight of the wall.
> Usually 3 of those will do the job.
> 
> You new plate can be done in pieces.


Like this? Picture is of one of the bracings and I'd have 3-4 of these.










Seems the floor 2x4s have to be pressed up against the opposite wall so that they can't slide away as you hammer the lower part of the diagonal 2x4 toward the wall being lifted. 

Or am I still missing something?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> Clever! I was wondering how to maneuver the new plate inside the wall bracing. Placing it inside to begin with is an elegant solution.
> 
> Like this? Picture is of one of the bracings and I'd have 3-4 of these.
> 
> ...


No you have it about right. Yes you likely have to block back to another wall if the leaning 2x4 is a little longer than that you can put a couple toes on a flatter angle the more you hit the nails the higher you go and the nails hold it there.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Any thoughts on what the extra piece of bottom plate on the exterior walls is for? Described below:


jbrah said:


> I was taking a closer look at the bottom plates that need replacing and noticed that while the interior wall bottom plate appears to simply be a 2x4, both exterior walls have a strip (looks to be ~3/4" thick) that runs under a 2x4. What purpose does this serve?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> Any thoughts on what the extra piece of bottom plate on the exterior walls is for? Described below:


The studs were to short??? How long are the studs in both walls.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Are you sure that's wood and not a raised concrete rim?


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> The studs were to short??? How long are the studs in both walls.


Studs on exterior walls are ~84-1/2". Studs on interior wall are just over 87". In addition to the extra bottom plate, the exterior walls also have a doubled up top plate.

In this pic, the wall on the right is an exterior wall, and the wall on the left is an interior wall.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

huesmann said:


> Are you sure that's wood and not a raised concrete rim?


Yep, it's wood.

Here's my screwdriver sticking into the most rotted section:









And here's another section, where I just scratched off the outer layer, revealing wood fibers:









Seems strange they would install this extra piece of wood instead of merely cutting the studs a little longer. So I'm thinking there was a reason for this.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> Studs on exterior walls are ~84-1/2". Studs on interior wall are just over 87". In addition to the extra bottom plate, the exterior walls also have a doubled up top plate.
> 
> In this pic, the wall on the right is an exterior wall, and the wall on the left is an interior wall.


 pre cut stud is 92 1/4 in Canada and 92 5/8 in the US
All walls should have a double top plate. the cavity above the room next door should fire stopped from that wall, blocking under the cavity in the wall would be the ticket. Just below the ceiling 2x4s.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

jbrah said:


> Yep, it's wood.
> 
> Here's my screwdriver sticking into the most rotted section:
> 
> ...


A little bit more color on this. I dug away the rotted wood in this corner, and I think the 3/4" strip of floor plate below the 2x4 floor plate might actually be a 2x4 floor plate with half of its thickness below the level of the room, if that makes sense. So a double bottom plate on the exterior walls. If you blow up this pic, you can hopefully see what I'm talking about:











huesmann said:


> Are you sure that's wood and not a raised concrete rim?


So it seems to be the opposite. The rim sits below the concrete floor in the room.

Have you guys seen this kind of construction before?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> A little bit more color on this. I dug away the rotted wood in this corner, and I think the 3/4" strip of floor plate below the 2x4 floor plate might actually be a 2x4 floor plate with half of its thickness below the level of the room, if that makes sense. So a double bottom plate on the exterior walls. If you blow up this pic, you can hopefully see what I'm talking about:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Is the floor concrete or wood? I have seen both look like this.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Is the floor concrete or wood? I have seen both look like this.


Floor in this room is tile on concrete.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The footing and foundation were poured and the house is built, just the bearing walls and the floor was poured later. Only in the last 30 years has it been important to make the concrete curb the same level as the floor. Then the other walls are built last. 

That would also explain why there is one top plate, not called for on a non bearing wall.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> The footing and foundation were poured and the house is built, just the bearing walls and the floor was poured later. Only in the last 30 years has it been important to make the concrete curb the same level as the floor. Then the other walls are built last.
> 
> That would also explain why there is one top plate, not called for on a non bearing wall.


Yeah, and it also explains why the interior wall only has one bottom plate - as you said, it would have been built last, after the floor was poured.

So the upshot for me is I have to remove and replace both 2x4 bottom plates on the exterior walls. Guess I'll need to get longer tapcons to secure the bottom plates to the concrete.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> Yeah, and it also explains why the interior wall only has one bottom plate - as you said, it would have been built last, after the floor was poured.
> 
> So the upshot for me is I have to remove and replace both 2x4 bottom plates on the exterior walls. Guess I'll need to get longer tapcons to secure the bottom plates to the concrete.


 The bearing wall would be better with anchor bolts every 4 or 5 ft. 

And put sill gasket between wood and concrete even if you are doing treated wood.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> The bearing wall would be better with anchor bolts every 4 or 5 ft.


So wedge anchors and hot dipped galvanized since going through pressure treated lumber? Something like this:
https://www.concretefasteners.com/1-2-x-7-red-head-trubolt-plus-wedge-anchor-galvanized

Pricey!



Nealtw said:


> And put sill gasket between wood and concrete even if you are doing treated wood.


Will do. Something like this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...ti-Use-Ridged-Sill-Plate-Gasket-1FS/202084452


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> So wedge anchors and hot dipped galvanized since going through pressure treated lumber? Something like this:
> https://www.concretefasteners.com/1-2-x-7-red-head-trubolt-plus-wedge-anchor-galvanized
> 
> Pricey!
> ...


Yes and yes. The non bearing wall can be pinned or screwed.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

That stuff is a ***** to keep from rolling back up again. :vs_laugh:


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

huesmann said:


> That stuff is a ***** to keep from rolling back up again. :vs_laugh:


 Cut it to length and staple it to the bottom of the plate before you put it in. 

Often hard to do when sliding the plate in then change to poly and wrap the far side and staple it to the bottom and far side.


Or paint the bottom with redgard


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

So here's my gameplan for replacing bottom plates on exterior walls - please let me know if I'm doing something incorrectly or inefficiently.


brace wall as discussed earlier in thread
 pull toe nails out of the studs. I could cut the toe nails going into the floor plate with a recip saw, but then I'd need to shim all the studs on that wall, even the good studs. Figure if I can pull the toe nails out, that will save me the trouble of shimming.
 cut nails entering floor plate from the sheathing
 cut section(s) of floor plate and remove
 cut any nail studs protruding from sheathing flush with sheathing
 cut new treated 2x4 to size, and dip cut end in wood preservative, like this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-qt-Copper-Green-Brown-Wood-Preservative-CB-QTS/202688831
 drill concrete for wedge anchor bolts
 install sill plate gasket: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-C...ickid=yzm3oU2LAxyJU5D0MSU5wRc5Uklyqz1BU12mTo0
 apply construction adhesive to back side of new treated 2x4 (to adhere new floor plate to sheathing)
 install new treated 2x4. 
 install wedge anchor bolts, something like this: https://www.concretefasteners.com/1-2-x-7-red-head-trubolt-plus-wedge-anchor-galvanized
 sister new studs to badly damaged studs. With the wall deloaded, I'm guessing the new studs can be cut to the exact same height as the old studs and they will easily tap in with a hammer. Then construction screws to sister, driving screws only into areas of the damaged studs where the wood is still solid.
 remove bracing and reload repaired framing.
 use hot dipped galvanized construction screws to secure existing studs to new floor plate. Going with screws since that will be easier than trying to drive nails at an angle.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

@jbrah a couple points. The sill gasket will not want to fit in there unless you have really lifted the wall up. Sheet poly may be a better way to go. 
A rotary hammer drill will go thru the wood too, so install the plate and then drill the holes for anchors. Any studs that are questionable that you are leaving or even anything that has water stains can be painted with the copper treatment first. 


To attach sheeting, no glue, after you are done with the wall sitting back on the floor, pre drill blocks of 2x2 and screw them down to the plate next to the sheeting and use 2" screws into the sheeting. You can add glue to the 2x2s


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

With pressure treated wood (like the WeatherShield lumber at Home Depot), that is going to serve as bottom plate, do I have to let it acclimatize for 24 hours (or more) or can I bolt it to the concrete right away?

Speaking of bolting to concrete, so for the exterior walls, my understanding is 1/2" diameter anchor bolts with minimum 7" embedment, so for doubled up bottom plates, that's 10" of length, plus a bit extra for a nut, so ~11" long wedge anchors. Does that sound correct?

What about interior walls? I've got one interior wall in that room. Obviously the concrete isn't going to be 7" deep there. Maybe 2" embedment is good enough - with a single bottom plate, I'd be looking at 4" long wedge anchors?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> With pressure treated wood (like the WeatherShield lumber at Home Depot), that is going to serve as bottom plate, do I have to let it acclimatize for 24 hours (or more) or can I bolt it to the concrete right away?
> 
> Speaking of bolting to concrete, so for the exterior walls, my understanding is 1/2" diameter anchor bolts with minimum 7" embedment, so for doubled up bottom plates, that's 10" of length, plus a bit extra for a nut, so ~11" long wedge anchors. Does that sound correct?
> 
> What about interior walls? I've got one interior wall in that room. Obviously the concrete isn't going to be 7" deep there. Maybe 2" embedment is good enough - with a single bottom plate, I'd be looking at 4" long wedge anchors?


 For a single plate we did a 4 1/2" anchor or there abouts. 
Wet lumber wants to be put in and nailed in place and bolted before it warps so it drys straight. When they are wet you can bend them to where you want them. 
Non bearing walls can be pinned down, drill a 3/16" hole thru the 2x4 into the concrete. put in 2 pieces of rebar tie wire or nylon string from a weed eater and drive a 3" nail in it. One close to ends and near doorways and then every 2 ft.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Non bearing walls can be pinned down, drill a 3/16" hole thru the 2x4 into the concrete. put in 2 pieces of rebar tie wire or nylon string from a weed eater and drive a 3" nail in it. One close to ends and near doorways and then every 2 ft.


The interior wall is perpendicular to the joists above it, so I assume that makes it load bearing?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jbrah said:


> The interior wall is perpendicular to the joists above it, so I assume that makes it load bearing?


It won't hurt to bolt it down either way but keep the bolts on the short side in case the floor is thin.


----------



## jbrah (May 29, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> It won't hurt to bolt it down either way but keep the bolts on the short side in case the floor is thin.


Thanks. Thinking I'll use 1/4" x 2-3/4" blue tapcons. Cheaper than hot dipped galvanized wedge anchors, short enough to work in thin slabs, easy to remove if the bottom plate ever needed to be moved in the future.


----------

