# How to properly install a condensate line.



## WyrTwister (Jul 22, 2013)

Whats with the loop in the drain hose ? Is that their idea of a trap ?

The washer drain has a trap at the bottom , where it heads to the right .

Is this pier and beam or concrete slab ? 

God bless
Wyr


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

First of all mini-spilts do not drain a lot of water and are notorious for that water sitting in places and building up algae when it becomes stagnant and then plugging the pipe. I would rip that flex crap out and use smooth 3/4" pex or cheap black poly pipe as it is flexible and then connect it somehow above the trap in the pipe the washer uses. You can get angle Y fittings to hookup washers and possibly hook it into there.


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## WyrTwister (Jul 22, 2013)

Rightly or wrongly , on our 2 MS's , I used 5/8" automotive heater hose left over from another project . This fit the factory corrugated drain tube .

Both drain to the outside ( through the wall ) , on the ground .

God bless
Wyr


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

I would take the tube they supplied and make it short and adapt it to some 3/4" pipe. The smoother and least amount of kinks the better.


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## CompleteW&D (Sep 4, 2015)

WyrTwister said:


> *Whats with the loop in the drain hose ? Is that their idea of a trap ?*
> 
> The washer drain has a trap at the bottom , where it heads to the right .
> 
> ...


When I first saw that, I thought the same thing. Either that, or they were just too lazy to cut the excess. 

Plus, I've never seen any condensate drain line that's "corrugated" like that. Condensate drains are generally clear, flexible PVC. That drain has potential to trap moisture all along it, causing mold and mildew build up over time. A couple of years from now, you will likely start smelling it.

If it were me, I would demand they come and re-do everything. And, tell them this time, have their right angle drill with them to properly drill those studs.

As far as sistering in the drain with the washer drain, I have no problem with that. I would zip tie them together though, just to make sure the condensate drain line (the clear PVC one) doesn't pop out.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why is it not just draining to the outside? 
Should have been drilled holes in the studs not notched.
A water wall should have been 2 X 6 not 2 X 4's.
Even that dryer vent hose should be trashed.
It would burn through in about 30 seconds.
Looks like that washer box was installed up side down.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Post should read, "how not to install a condensate drain"


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## hellonoko (Jan 7, 2012)

@WyrTwister - Yes, I think that is their idea of a trap, or a high drain loop? Not sure really. This is concrete slab but this is on the 2nd floor so not on the slab.
@yuri - Thanks. I will check that out. I have a an expansion pex tool so I could do that easily.
@CompleteW&D - Thanks for the notes. I also think they should fix it but then I'm sort of thinking.. what else will they break while 'fixing' it? Might just be easier to fix myself.
@joecaption - It's not draining to the outside because it's on an interior wall. Yes they should have drilled, thus this post... What should the dryer vent be replaced with?


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Most ductless unit's have the condensate on the high side, so no trap required. Double check your manual though. I too would have used 3/4 pvc. It helps prevent blockages. 

I probably would have "y'ed" off the drain instead of jamming it in like that, but it works. 

The stud work is great...... Erm yeah... 

Cheers!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Make the suggested smooth wall pipe repairs as suggested, for the for the washer box- cut in a 2" inverted wye in the stand- up pretty high- point it toward the right side of the box. On the branch of wye use a 45 to align to the knock out hole at the right side of the box. Of course, add pipe between the fittings. Use ABS glue at the joints
Feed your condensate tube through the top hole and into the removed knock out on the right. Done deal


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