# Connecting SDR 35 Green Sewer Pipe



## jeremy3s (May 1, 2017)

I'm getting ready to install underground gutter drainage using 4 10' lengths of green sewer pipe. I've never worked with PVC pipe before and I'm wondering if pvc cement is necessary for this project. If it is, how much time do I have to get the connections fully seated before the glue dries?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I would use glue and primer on your joints. Since you are working with 4" pipe I would buy QT size containers of each. For application method, follow the instructions on the can. Use purple primer and medium body glue. You have a little time to assemble- unless it's hot. Then the set time happens fast.
If you are not worried about water seeping out, or roots getting in, then glue is optional. But I personally would glue up the joints....


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## jeremy3s (May 1, 2017)

TheEplumber said:


> I would use glue and primer on your joints. Since you are working with 4" pipe I would buy QT size containers of each. For application method, follow the instructions on the can. Use purple primer and medium body glue. You have a little time to assemble- unless it's hot. Then the set time happens fast.
> If you are not worried about water seeping out, or roots getting in, then glue is optional. But I personally would glue up the joints....


Thanks for the info! I only want to do this once and don't want the pipe getting full of roots, so it's clear I need to glue it.

Is there a trick to getting the pieces put together quickly? It's hot where I am, so that's going to be an issue.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Sewer pipe is not designed to be glued.

There is a gasket in the bell that keeps it tight and from leaking.

It's a lot cheaper to run either corrugated pipe or schedule 40.

Check the price difference here. Then again we never used the cheap pipe.

https://www.google.com/search?q=gre...7j0l6j69i60.7070j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8


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## dj3 (Apr 27, 2020)

I've used white Sch 40 PVC pipes for gutter drain before, I used PVC cement and the results were satisfactory.
Sewer pipes are not for gutter use.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

jeremy3s said:


> Thanks for the info! I only want to do this once and don't want the pipe getting full of roots, so it's clear I need to glue it.
> 
> Is there a trick to getting the pieces put together quickly? It's hot where I am, so that's going to be an issue.


The trick is to work methodically- It's not contact cement and you do have a some time. Watch some pipe glue videos, and read the can label for instructions


ron45 said:


> Sewer pipe is not designed to be glued.
> 
> There is a gasket in the bell that keeps it tight and from leaking.
> 
> ...


It most certainly is designed to be glued. You can buy gasketed or solvent weld pipe or fittings


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

ron45 said:


> Sewer pipe is not designed to be glued.
> 
> There is a gasket in the bell that keeps it tight and from leaking.
> 
> ...


There are different types of sewer pipe. Some glued, some gasketed.


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

As said, there are 2 types of the "green" sewer pipe. 
For storm drainage, you don't have to use that, you can get much cheaper poly or PVC pipe with belled ends also. And perforated for those portions where you are doing a french drain. You can also use standard PVC pipe fittings.


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## jeremy3s (May 1, 2017)

TheEplumber said:


> The trick is to work methodically- It's not contact cement and you do have a some time. Watch some pipe glue videos, and read the can label for instructions


The videos I had watched previous to my opening post showed only fittings being installed and the use of pullers. This made me imagine it was going to be a really tight fit that I'd really have to muscle in. I just did a dry fit and realized it slides right in to full depth. :surprise:

It seems this job will be no problem. All I need now are quarts of medium body glue and primer.

Thanks for the advice.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

jeremy3s said:


> The videos I had watched previous to my opening post showed only fittings being installed and the use of pullers. This made me imagine it was going to be a really tight fit that I'd really have to muscle in. I just did a dry fit and realized it slides right in to full depth. :surprise:
> 
> It seems this job will be no problem. All I need now are quarts of medium body glue and primer.
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


You were probably viewing videos for gasketed pipe. They uusually take a puller or a pipe bar to assemble . 
Good luck!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

You'll definitely want to make sure one piece of pipe is secure from movement and twisting, so you only have to handle one of them. after applying the solvent, you'll want to push the connection together and then twist one of pieces a 1/4 turn, then hold it for 30 seconds or so, since it will try to push itself apart right away, until it sets up.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

TheEplumber said:


> You were probably viewing videos for gasketed pipe. They uusually take a puller or a pipe bar to assemble .
> Good luck!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


I found that a block of wood and big rubber mallet (6-10 lb) works way better for putting together the gasketed pipe, especially for the bigger stuff (6" and 8" sewer) and pressure pipe (Schedule 80 gasketed), but even a 2lb mallet is adequate for the 4" sewer pipe.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

You can glue any pipe you want.

But me.
A pipe with gaskets in the bell.
No pressure 
Under ground
Needs no glue.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

ron45 said:


> You can glue any pipe you want.
> 
> But me.
> A pipe with gaskets in the bell.
> ...


*No, do not use glue on a pipe with a gasket.*

It doesn't matter if it's under pressure, underground, or whatever. The glue will screw up the gasket.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I don't always work with sdr 35, but when I do I like to go big and add in some glued fittings. And end it with some sch 40 PVC cell core :wink2:
Installed a couple months ago. FYI- SDR 35 is not allowed inside the structure


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## Skoorb (Oct 6, 2009)

I did some schedule 40 this year and some sdr35. I absolutely hate gluing schedule 40 4" pipe. I found even when being careful I could never quite guarantee I get get the joint to seat fully without hammering on one end of it.

The SDR35 like you have--the non-gasketted--I was a delight to work with. The joints are much deeper, so require a lot more priming and glue, but they slide right in. Do be sure to work quickly but I think it's a lot easier for a beginner.

Can't hurt to have somebody at the other end to kick it in in case it decides to harden up. Remember this glue doesn't dry, it chemically cures, and quickly at that.

Also buy PRIMER, not CLEANER.

Liberally prime the female inside, then the male, then the female again. Then repeat that with the glue and quickly put them together.


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## jeremy3s (May 1, 2017)

I got the pipes all assembled. I must say I could not get the pipe to pipe connections seated with just my hands. It took a 5 pound hammer to be a manageable job. 

The fittings were easy enough though.


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