# Basement Floor, Epoxy+Gas Furnace=Boom?



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

GOOD QUESTION....!!!!!!! NFI

I've never had the issue. I suspect the manufacturer of your exact epoxy should have explicit warnings and information in that regard.


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## Verx (Dec 19, 2019)

I've contacted the company we were thinking of purchasing through (EpoxyMaster) and was told their product has zero VOC so we don't have to turn off the furnace at all. I'm a little dubious of the thought that I can have the furnace on the whole time. But I might try and do a small trial outside before putting it in my basement and light a candle near by... We'll see what happens!


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## PatentPending (Aug 7, 2018)

What exactly is your concern? It sounds like you're using a 100% solids epoxy (i.e. *no VOCs*), so what's going to go "boom"? The epoxy itself? Doubtful. While epoxy is plastic, and as such will burn, your furnace isn't going to ignite it unless you do something like literally open your furnace and throw the epoxy on the flames (does a furnace even count as an "open flame?"). It probably doesn't even qualify as "flammable" (as opposed to "combustible"), but if you're that worried get the SDS from the manufacturer and see what that says. 

If you turn your furnace off, you're just gonna create grief for yourself hoping that those electric heaters will keep the epoxy warm enough to cure. I've done the 100% solids epoxy in the basement, during the winter, thing. Even with the furnace on, it took a full week to cure.


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## Verx (Dec 19, 2019)

That's helpful thank you! I do not know much about epoxy, I've found a few posts about the 100% epoxy vs. the epoxy that includes water, and somewhere I read that one of them shouldn't be installed near a gas furnace. However, hearing that it's been done before with the 100% epoxy, and that it has zero VOC is very helpful. Especially since it can be done with us maintaining the proper temperature.


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## PatentPending (Aug 7, 2018)

If there's an epoxy product that shouldn't be installed near a gas furnace, it's probably xylene or otherwise oil-based (my primer was xylene-based; smelled terrible but I had a box fan in the window and nobody blew up). OR it could be due to a concern that applying near a furnace would cause the epoxy to cure too quickly.

Either way, you seem to have gotten the go-ahead from the manufacturer, which should really be the final say.


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## Verx (Dec 19, 2019)

Thank you all so much! If anyone has any tips or tricks you'd suggest before we get started on the epoxy feel free to share. This is the first time we're working with this. 

We know to check the concrete for sealant, grind the floor if it has been sealed, make sure it's all properly swept and washed, and keep the temp above 50 and as well ventilated as possible. 

Thank you again!


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## PatentPending (Aug 7, 2018)

Prep is the hard part. 

Mine was new concrete so I did the acid etch. After that I used a pressure washer (had my wife follow me with a wet/dry vac so as to minimize the water mess). Then I rented the biggest dehumidifer I could find, sealed the room, and let it run for a couple days. All that left me with a clean, dry, and nicely porous surface.

Use a primer, especially if it's old concrete. It's bit of an extra expense, but you're already paying out the nose for 100% solids epoxy. _Ditto for a topcoat._

When you do the pour, have a plan *and a helper*. You should know beforehand exactly who needs to do what, and when. Memorize the manufacturer's instructions (failure to follow them can result in a sticky mess that never hardens, or an expensive plastic brick in your bucket). You don't have time to be screwing around, and there is very little room for error. If I did it again, I would make sure to have timers set (for mixing time, pot life, working time, etc.).

Once the epoxy is down, keep the room warm. Those electric heaters you mentioned (in addition to NOT turning the furnace off) would probably help.

That's all I've got. Despite what some people will tell you, 100% solids epoxy, despite being incredibly unforgiving, *is* DIY-able. It's a stressful process but as long as you have your **** together you'll be fine. Good luck.


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## Verx (Dec 19, 2019)

Thank you! I will make sure to follow all these instructions to a T as well as the manufacturer instructions. We do have very old concrete (the house was built in the 40s and it was purchased as a foreclosure. The prior owners did not take great care of it). I'll be sure to grab the primer as well as the top coat. 

Side question - did you find the epoxy to be very slippery once it has hardened? I've seen mixed reviews.


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## PatentPending (Aug 7, 2018)

Verx said:


> Side question - did you find the epoxy to be very slippery once it has hardened? I've seen mixed reviews.


Yes. My topcoat came with some very fine gritty stuff that gets mixed in. If you kit comes with that too, use it. If grit is an optional add-on, buy it. 

Even with the grit it can get pretty slippery, for example if it gets wet or if there's fine sawdust on the ground. Had I not used it, I suspect it would basically be an ice rink.


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## Verx (Dec 19, 2019)

Good to know! Thank you!


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Dittos on the cleaning. When I did mine I scrubbed it with soap and hot water and a stiff brush, then wiped up with a sponge. Give it several days to dry fully.

Knock down high-spot flaws with a grinder, fill in low-spots with some kind of portland cement based filler, like Pourstone. Small pits can be caulked and smoothed with a spatula.


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## Verx (Dec 19, 2019)

Thanks everyone! 

We're doing a bit more research before we get started and it looks like we can do a stain on the cement with a clear top coat of the same type of epoxy for half the price. Does anyone have experience with going this route? Did it turn out alright? 

We're currently planning on purchasing from https://epoxymaster.com/


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## PatentPending (Aug 7, 2018)

I'm not about to look through the epoxymaster website to figure out exactly what you mean, but I'm guessing you're saying you'll put a polyurethane topcoat (my understanding is that epoxy generally isn't used as a topcoat due to UV degradation, etc.) directly on stained concrete.
That will probably be fine, so long as the polyurethane will adhere to the concrete properly (I actually don't know if that is the case), but it won't be as durable as a proper primer+epoxy+topcoat treatment.


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