# Cutting Cement Pavers and Brick



## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

Looking at doing quite a bit of work with 4x8 cement pavers this coming spring/summer. I know that I'll have to make quite a few cuts, and so I'm looking for what people here think is the best cutting tool.

So far, I've found tons of different opinions on the internet. Demo saws, wet tile saws, angle grinders, multi-tools, chop saws (!), etc.

What's your preferred tool for cutting cement pavers and reused brick? Why? Why not any of the other options?


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

For patios, they also make a hand splitter that is used by many contractors. It is much easier and faster. Usually, there is no need to have a perfectly smooth face since the cut face can be installed facing the edging and still maintain the tight joint between adjacent pavers. Some paver suppliers even rent them out.

Dick


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

I had read about those. A tile setter I used to work for told me they were garbage, but I've never seen one in action. I'm sure ceramic tile and concrete pavers are two entirely different worlds of cutting, though.

How about splitting and then an abrasive or cutoff wheel to smooth the edge slightly? Or, scoring with a cutoff wheel, then splitting?


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

We have a hand splitter/guolotine? and it works fine on small aggregate pavers. Clay pavers can be hit or miss though. If you need a clean cut, then a cut-off saw or chop saw are the way to go.

If you have a curving edge, you can place all the brick & let them run "wild", mark your curving line, and cut the entire edge at once, with the brick in place, with a cut-off saw. Quick accurate way to do it.

If you need to cut one brick at a time, I don't think you can beat a $150-200 electric chop saw with a $100 14" diamond blade.


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

I imagine you would consider a 4x8x1.75 concrete paver to be "small" and "aggregate", right? That's what I'll probably be cutting. And some reclaimed brick.

Can a the guilotine only cut on 90 degree angles, or do 45's as well? Does it really cut any better than a mason's chisel for these materials?


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Thadius856 said:


> I imagine you would consider a 4x8x1.75 concrete paver to be "small" and "aggregate", right? That's what I'll probably be cutting. And some reclaimed brick.
> 
> Yes, they're small enough to fit into it.
> 
> ...


45 degree angles won't be easy, as it's fixed and doesn't angle at all, so I don't think the blades/chisels are deep enough to break at a true 45 degrees.

I'm a mason whose had plenty time on a hammer & chisel and I'd honestly trust my splitter before myself anyday. 

I still think you may want to look at a cheap metal chopsaw though with a diamond blade, because the splitters aren't cheap either.


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

Hmmmm.

If I were to lay a 45º herringbone, I'd need quite a few 45 degree cuts. Plus other funky angles where it will meet the curved soldier course.

Chop saw looks better every day.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

The question is whether you need the accuracy to go to a saw, especially when you have some "free-form" edges and 45's. Pavers have been installed for decades/centuries without saws and have performed well. Unforunately on a patio, you are too close the work and anticipated final appearance. When you apply and vibrate the sand for the interlock it fills every space between the pavers and between the pavers and the edge restraint.

I do question the size of the pavers, because the 1 1/2" thickness is really skimpy and non-standard, even for a patio. Normally a 60 mm (about 2-3/8") is used for light loads. An 80 mm paver (about 3-1/8") is used for driveways and some streets, while 100 mm pavers (about 3-7/8") are used for airports and industrial facilities. Thickness is critical because a thinner paver does not interlock as well and distribute pedestrian and traffic loads as well as a thicker paver. All real pavers are well over 8000 psi and the casual pavers and stepping stones are about 1 5/8", but have no strength requirements.

If you already have the pavers, make sure the base is compacted very well and the filling fine sand is vibrated well into the joints while you even out the surface.

If you are laying over a concrete slab, it is a totally different situation, similar to what a tile setter would do and pray for durability.

Dick


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

While I have concrete slab, it will be removed in phases as I work with the pavers. I do plan on a compacted base, 4" aggregate and 1" sand. This project won't start until the coming spring.

Double checked the paver stats. A bit confused. Manufacturer shows 2-3/8". Lowe's shows 1-7/8". I've seen them in person, but don't recall their thickness. I wonder if they're a thinner custom product just for Lowe's to save $$. Either way, I'd planned on going with a dedicated masonry local distributor if possible. Our second choice shows at 9x6x2-3/8 as well.


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## Jj375 (Feb 25, 2011)

I used a diamond blade on my circular saw and one on my angle grinder. By the time I was done I wish I rented a wet saw.


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

That's a pretty nice patio. What's under the cover? 

Looks like 6x6 and 6x9 cobble. Do you remember the manufacturer / model? If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay per sq for just the pavers alone?

To be clear... you said you used a circular saw. Like.. this kind of circular saw?!?!


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Thadius856 said:


> While I have concrete slab, it will be removed in phases as I work with the pavers. I do plan on a compacted base, 4" aggregate and 1" sand. This project won't start until the coming spring.
> 
> Double checked the paver stats. A bit confused. Manufacturer shows 2-3/8". Lowe's shows 1-7/8". I've seen them in person, but don't recall their thickness. I wonder if they're a thinner custom product just for Lowe's to save $$. *Either way, I'd planned on going with a dedicated masonry local distributor if possible.* Our second choice shows at 9x6x2-3/8 as well.



Excellent idea!! :thumbup:



Jj375 said:


> I used a diamond blade on my circular saw and one on my angle grinder. By the time I was done I wish I rented a wet saw.


Nice work, and good thought on the wet saw. The Herringbone pattern on a 45 degree the OP's considering is even far more cuts than what you had to do in the picture.


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> The Herringbone pattern on a 45 degree the OP's considering is even far more cuts than what you had to do in the picture.


I just might have to ditch that crazy idea in the end. Everything I want to build against is a straight line and built on (hopefully exactly) square. The house is a straight rectangle, as well as the property line, both front and back yards and all the fencing.

The reason I was considering it was because I'm afraid the waviness caused by numerous layers of stucco and paint will be more obvious if the eye catches the straight line from a soldier course and herringbone running right against the house.


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## Jj375 (Feb 25, 2011)

Thadius856 said:


> That's a pretty nice patio. What's under the cover?
> 
> Looks like 6x6 and 6x9 cobble. Do you remember the manufacturer / model? If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay per sq for just the pavers alone?
> 
> To be clear... you said you used a circular saw. Like.. this kind of circular saw?!?!


Yeah a circular saw it worked but what a mess. The pavers are Hanover pavers 6•6,6•9. I think about 3$ a square foot. And it's a fire pit under the cover lol.


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

Looked up the Hanover pavers. Found a price list for a MA distributor that shows $2.35/sqft on the first try. Needless to say, I'm jealous. The closest I have come so far is $2.85/sqft. It appears that they're not produced in this region though. :\ Oh well, a classic paver is a classic paver.

I inquired about the spec on Lowe's site for the Oldcastle being listed at 1-7/8". This is the response I got.



> Sorry for the mix up!
> Yes the paver for Lowe's is thinner and ICPI ( the governing body for paver installation ) typically recommends a 60mm paver unless it's an overlay ( going over a concrete foundation / base) We do have a 50mm paver however that is used for pedestrian only applications.
> 
> Please let me know if you don't receive your catalog in a timely fashion, I will be happy to personally get one to you.
> ...


Seems like that pretty rules Lowe's out for me. I knew there was no way they could come in at $1.85/sqft for the same paver I was seeing at dedicated local distributors for 50% more.

I do have plenty of concrete I could lay them over, but it's even to grade. I'd either have to create a 1-7/8" right at my back door (LOL) or grind it down that far (LMAO).


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I cut about a dozen concrete blocks using a circular saw and a diamond blade. No need to cut all the way through, if you cut about half you can knock the piece off with a small steel sledge hammer easily. Makes a lot of dust, and concrete dust is VERY BAD for your lungs, so use a professional grade dust mask (I use a NIOSH cartridge filter mask) when you cut. Also very loud, use ear protection.


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## Thadius856 (Jun 2, 2011)

Just received an anonymouse noise complaint letter for "whistling" or "hooting" too loudly...

...I can't wait to use the noisiest damn tools I can find.


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