# Installing wall cabinets



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

Hey everyone,
Im getting ready to install some new kitchen cabinets in a couple weeks. My question is, do I just hit all the wall studs that I can with the cabinets and screw cabinet to cabinet? I have a couple wall cabinets that look like they're going to only hit one stud. Whats the proper procedure for this? The walls are 2x4 studs with sheetrock. Thanks


----------



## MinConst (Nov 23, 2004)

If you hit one stud with 2 screws on each cab you will be fine. I use toggle bolts on the other 2 if the cabs are small. If you can't hit a stud on one use toggle bolts. You should find studs unless the cabs are under 16" in width.


----------



## ajan246 (Oct 18, 2007)

Yup just try to get a couple into the stud and you'll be fine. Studs are every 16 inches from center to center, so measure it out and hit your studs!


----------



## space_coyote (Nov 12, 2006)

I'd advise you to use a purpose-designed cabinet hanging screw. 

They're designed to take the shear load of a cabinet, as opposed to an off-the-shelf decking screw that's designed to resist a pull-type load.


----------



## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

space_coyote said:


> I'd advise you to use a purpose-designed cabinet hanging screw.
> 
> They're designed to take the shear load of a cabinet, as opposed to an off-the-shelf decking screw that's designed to resist a pull-type load.


Excellent tip


----------



## TNRocks (May 2, 2007)

*Use a hanger*

I install cabinets and I use a hanger. I usually make my own. Take a 1 x 3 and rip it in half using a 45d angle on your blade. Then mount half on your wall and the other half on your cabinet. The 45d angle will lock the cabinet to the wall and then u can install a couple of screws into the cabinet into the hange. Also Rockler sells the hanger brackets made out of metal. If you are tight on space they also have Z clips. They only need 3/16 of space. No matter which one u use just make sure they are level.:thumbup:


----------



## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

TNRocks said:


> I install cabinets and I use a hanger. I usually make my own. Take a 1 x 3 and rip it in half using a 45d angle on your blade. Then mount half on your wall and the other half on your cabinet.....


If one uses stock pre-made cabinets, doesn't this method bump the cabinet out by the thickness of the cleat?

As for the screws I use the GRK cabinet screws. If the cabinets have face frames, their trim screws work really well in combination with the pony face frame clamps work well...just don't over tighten.


----------



## TNRocks (May 2, 2007)

Some do and some don't. Depends on the Manf. If the rear of your cabinet is flush, you can screw the cleat to the inside of your cabinet and then rip a slot for it to catch the one on the wall.


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

Those are all great tips you guys, thanks. I've got a couple more questions. My kitchen is a fairly decent size "L" with one wall 9' and the other wall 16' with a sink in the middle of the 16' wall. My question is, do I assemble a bunch of wall cabinets to the corner cabinet and try to hoist a million pounds of cabinets up on the wall that are only held together by a few screws in the face frames? Or do I install each one indivually? My other question is, I have 36" high wall cabinets that will be 6" from the ceiling, I also have a 3" crown moulding. How do I get in there with only 3" to work to install the crown from the top? Thanks everyone!


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

TNRocks said:


> Also Rockler sells the hanger brackets made out of metal. If you are tight on space they also have Z clips.:thumbup:


What exactly does Rockler call the brackets you're talking about? I went on there website and they've got a few "hanging brackets". I see the Z clips on there, they actually may work pretty good. With the "Z" clips you're only relying on small screws that hold the Z to the screw strip on the back of the cabinet?


----------



## Renaissance-Millwork (Nov 3, 2007)

*Crownmold and 3"*

I also have a 3" crown moulding. How do I get in there with only 3" to work to install the crown from the top? Thanks everyone![/quote]
Block and mount a 1x6 to the top of the cabinets.You can Leave an offset for extra moulding or kill zone. You can also put flat or shaped stock on the cieling for emphasis or room to build up multiple pieces of crown (dental) etc. Use glue and 1 1/2 nails for less finishing work. I mean in the 1x6 nail close to the bottom as little as needed and try to hide the top nails under the crown mould, dito cieling & other mouldings. Be the finishers best friend.


----------



## TNRocks (May 2, 2007)

You start with the corner cabinet first. First thing to do if you can is rip a 2x4 giving u a straight edge. Then screw the 2 x 4 to the wall at the height of the bottom of the cabinets. This will be used as a rest for installing all your uppers. This way all the uppers are at the same height. After you install the corner you can work out one side at a time making sure after you put the cabinet up you clamp it the the previous cabinet and drill attaching holes either thru the face or if the sides are 3/4 or 1/2 in. you can screw thru the sides then fasten thru the rear. If you looked at Rocklers you should have also seen the Steel cleats (#66605). As for the "Z" clips you use 2 screws to mount to the wall and 2 to mount to the cabinet. Make sure they are mounted level there can be no "Thats good enough". These distrubuted the load out better then just using screws thru the back. If you decide to use screws thru the back also drill and screw under neath to the wall this giving you additional holding power plus the sides are screwed together you shouldn't have any problems. Did you check to see if the builder installed fastening blocks before the sheet rock was put up? Usually all the builders I know have this installed as part of the building package.
:thumbup:


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

Theres no fastening blocks behind the sheetrock because I had a small peice of sheetrock out for some wiring so I was able to see. The house was built in the early 70's and I guess this builder didnt do that. I can hit at least one stud on all cabinets except one 12" cabinet doesnt hit a stud.


----------



## TNRocks (May 2, 2007)

Here's another thing u might what to do. You can mark the wall and cut out the sheet rock behind the upper cabinets and install blocking yourself. The cabinets will hid the cut out section and u will have a good mounting surface for your cabinets. Together with screwing them together will be good enough. You don't have to install blocking behind the whole setup just enought to hold up the cabinets.:whistling2:


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

Heres another for you guys, this is in regards to installing the sink base. How exactly would you go about installing the sink base around this maze of pipes without having to cut the heck out of the bottom or back of the sink base?


----------



## spebby (Oct 24, 2007)

I am no expert, but what I did in a similar project is cut the copper just below the valves. I soldered a cap on the stubs so the rest of the house had water while I installed the cabinets. After the cabinets are installed, solder new valves on the stubs.


----------



## send_it_all (Apr 30, 2007)

I would be more concerned about that 12-2 romex hanging out from the bottom of the drywall 2 feet to the left.


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

Thats kinda of what I was thinking about cutting the valves off but I was worried about soldering right next to the wood of the new cabinet.

The romex was there to hook up the dishwasher. It goes from the dishwasher into a little junction box in the wall.


----------



## TNRocks (May 2, 2007)

You shouldn't have any problems solding the valves back on If your worried about the new cabinets use a piece of scrap wood between the where you are going to solder and the cabinets.


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

send_it_all said:


> I would be more concerned about that 12-2 romex hanging out from the bottom of the drywall 2 feet to the left.


My electrical friend said that wasnt the correct way either. Luckily the junction box is directly behind the dishwasher location so i'll just put in a single 20A outlet. That should solve that dilema.


----------



## Renaissance-Millwork (Nov 3, 2007)

*romex no issue*

It's for the stove plug, let the electrician handle it. Have the plumber cut the pipes near the floor and attch a long piece of braided flex. The cabinet intaller can snake it and it will look better (if that matters). If your the cabinet guy, take the back off the cabinet and install cleats. Drill the drain hole and hang it there. cut the notches (sorry, your bad) and slide the cabinet in place. pull the back into position and nail the cleats to the sides.:laughing:


----------



## oldfrt (Oct 18, 2007)

How's your plumbing capabilities?

Turn off the water supply to the room,take off the shut offs (cut below the pipe tee but leave enough to come up through the bottom of the cabinet),and drill a5/8" holes to line up with your copper pipes.Do the same for the the drain.Just a little bigger than the od of the pvc.
Those shut offs look like they need replacement anyways.


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

oldfrt said:


> How's your plumbing capabilities?
> 
> Turn off the water supply to the room,take off the shut offs (cut below the pipe tee but leave enough to come up through the bottom of the cabinet),and drill a5/8" holes to line up with your copper pipes.Do the same for the the drain.Just a little bigger than the od of the pvc.
> Those shut offs look like they need replacement anyways.


I think this is the route i'll take. I've soldered some copper pipe before with success, I wont say im Bob Vila but I can manage. And yes I really had to crank on those shut off valves to get the water to stop dripping. I'd say they're original from 1973 so they've done there time.


----------



## Mike Swearingen (Mar 15, 2005)

If you prefer not soldering, you can always use compression fitting 1/2"-to-3/8" shut-off valves on copper pipe.
Mike


----------



## GearHd6 (Sep 2, 2007)

I've got a question on shimming up base cabinets. If i'm shimming base cabinets up with shingles under the 1/2" plywood end panels, when I go and trim the shingles off flush with the cabinet what exactly keeps the shingle from just pushing under the cabinet? I understand you cant really kick them or anything one you've got end trim on but only being under there by a 1/2" just seems sketchy. Am I over thinking this? Thanks


----------



## TNRocks (May 2, 2007)

I usually apply some glue for a little piece of mind


----------



## RemodelMan (Oct 7, 2007)

*Pull the pipes*

If you want to avoid the gapping holes in the back/base of the cabinet, you will need to shut off the water supply, drain enough water out of the copper lines(shop vac may help) by opening the basement laundry faucet.
Then get out the propane and heat up both elbows below the floor. Hopefully your basement ceiling is open for this step. Then set cabinet by drilling out for the waste line. Next put an extension on your 3/4" spade bitand drill up through the floor holes or at least mark the base of the cabinet through the floor holes with the 1/2" pipe ie. tape a black marker to the inside of a pipe.
Now you can head back up stairs and drill out the base. 
Next, get a new valve that can handle both water and refridgerator(split valve) on the same line. Might as well replace the hot water valve too.
Resolder, by stuffing a plug of white bread into the elbow down in the basement before attempting to resolder the joint. It will wash out when you flush the line before you hook up the sink.


----------

