# ABS Module Replacement



## roasted (Jan 23, 2012)

Just an update (looks like I lost my window of opportunity to edit my original post), I called the local (and only) major Chevy dealership. They confirmed that yes, it does need to be programmed, and they can program it for $110 bucks. Far less than I anticipated.

Likewise, a used but "like new" ABS module matching the exact #'s I need can be had online for 80.

I'm thinking that might be the best route to go. I was hoping I could avoid programming it, but given the price for this particular vehicle, I might just do that.

Only thing is, I'm assuming that the ABS is effectively "not safe" if the unit is not programmed -- keyword being assuming, as I'd suspect the ABS not being programmed would mean it's not quite calibrated and may act up on the trip. Perhaps I can just yank the ABS fuse to effectively kill that system from working so I can drive the vehicle out with ABS disabled, pop the fuse back in, and have them program it there. Hmm...


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Man I do this all the time. I get a used EBCM (Electronic Brake Control Module), install it on the vehicle and reflash it. If your a IT guy then you'll understand when the modules (Computers) wake up and shake hands, it's the VIN numbers that it's comparing. VIN #'s don't match it shuts down and won't start. The VIN numbers are in each major module. So get a used module with the same service numbers on it and have a local shop that can reprogram (reflash) the car. ACDelco website https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/home is where they will go to buy the subscription to get the data they need to reflash. Round $60.00 my cost for 2 or 3 days I believe. And you need a J2534 passthru device. I have the CarDAQ-M. Love it.:vs_cool: Also if he put an autozone part on there, I would go somewhere else and get a good part.


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## roasted (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks for the insight Brainbucket! Given the most recent news that I can get it programmed locally, I may just do that. I understand disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery is a pretty important step when replacing the ABS/EBCM module - sound about right?

In my mind, this is what I was leaning towards:

1) Disconnect negative from car battery
2) Replace ABS module
3) Yank ABS fuse to disable ABS system
4) Plug in negative from car battery
5) Drive to dealership and have them program the unit

Think that'd fly?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Sounds good to me. On the battery. ALWAYS disconnect negative first and connect negative last. The systems are protected on the negative side from voltage spikes but not on the positive side. Voltage spikes kills computers and modules.:vs_cool:


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## roasted (Jan 23, 2012)

Well, I got the ABS module in yesterday and installed it today. It was a piece of cake to install. Took me more time to remove the steel arms covering my battery, and then disconnect my battery, than it took to replace the actual module itself.

Only catch is I couldn't get it programmed today. Dealership was too hammered of customers. Fortunately for me, they have bankers hours, so it looks like I'll have to take off work just to get this nonsense thing programmed.

The only thing I took note of is that before, both Car Gauge Pro and Torque Pro would clear the ABS error codes (only for them to come up again after a few minutes). Following the replacement of this ABS module, neither app will clear the ABS code. I assume this is due to the lack of programming, but it's going to make me feel a bit weird/suspicious until I can get it programmed to check for myself.


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