# How to finish the corner where the tub/shower meets the new greenboard



## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

If I understand what you are getting at you will need a stick of metal corner bead. It is a nail on product and they also make a tape on corner bead but for your application I think the nail on would be better.

Dave.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

J187 said:


> Installing a new 2 piece fiberglass tub/shower. Got the unit in, and I'm mostly done w/ the greenboard around the tub alcove. My question is this, where the greenboard meets up against the side of the tub and shower flange, what do I do to finish that corner. Should I run a bead of silicon down the seam and then what? Is there some kind of corner molding I put there or something. Maybe Later I can try to get a picture up..


I can't keep track of how many of these areas we have done over the years. Install your Sheetrock over that shower flange, then...

As Big Dave mentioned: 
Use either metal corner bead or 'no coat' (Pre-formed 90 degree 'sticks': plastic along the center with paper tape along the edges to - apply with compound)

After you install your 'corners', compound 'tape' it: Tape/coat right up to the edge of the tub. Use a small 2" taping knife if you have to. Once you get it filled in enough and it dries, sand it smooth. If you're not real good at taping, Add another coat after sanding the 1st time, and sand again.
Last: Apply a nice even bead of silicone or caulking with silicone added.
Use the best tool you have to smooth it out evenly: that tool is your finger. Keep a rag handy with either: Mineral spirits (Silicone Caulk) or wet rag (Latex caulking with silicone added) 
Let it all dry, then paint, and you're done.


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## jensenconstruction (Jun 6, 2006)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Last: Apply a nice even bead of silicone or caulking with silicone added.
> Use the best tool you have to smooth it out evenly: that tool is your finger. Keep a rag handy with either: Mineral spirits (Silicone Caulk) or wet rag (Latex caulking with silicone added)
> Let it all dry, then paint, and you're done.


Just a note-silicone caulk is not paintable so you want to use latex with silicon added or use silicone after the painting is done


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Cool, so just so I know I got it straight, I should flat tape the greenboard right up to the side of the tub that shows fill the seam w/ mud and run a bead of caulk down the seam after? 

Like so?










BTW, that is not my tub, just a picture I found on the net. 


Thanks guys.


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

I realize that is not your tub but it is done totally wrong. The sheetrock should go up to but not under or over lip of tub. The professional way to take care of the space left by the lip is to fill level with quickset mud, let harden then flat tape and skim coat.

This information is coming from someone who hung and finished professionally for 8 years.

Dave.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Yeah, how bout the four feet between the bottom nail and the second one up on the side flange there.... 

Anyway, did it I have it right above with my post and my terrible visual aid, I want to flat tap right against the edge of the tub that shows and fill the gap w/ durbond...


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Durabond first, then flat tape over the crack between durabond and drywall. This will eliminate any cracks in the future.

Dave.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

J187,

Wew! ---- You scared me for a sec....with that picture of the shower side OVER the sheetrock!

Do it 'exactly' the way Big Dave said to do it...he knows his stuff. 

( only difference is, we've been doing our professional hanging, taping and finishing for 22 years... )


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

*what should be place behind the tub encloser?*

May be it is my English, but above info said the green board being placed up to the edge of the encloser, not under, if this is the case, what should be place behind the encloser's wall? and should whatever being put there to have a thickness a bit thinner than the green board to ensure level for the joint between the edge and the green board...

Or my question does not make sense because I am totally out of the ball park, English is not my first spoken language...


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

These tubs are disigned to be mounted directly to the studs. When framing the space for the tub we would frame it at 5'1/4". The tub will slide into position and nail to the studs. Too many times I have seen the drywall lapped over the lip causing a curve in the wall which looks bad and makes it tough to bend the baseboard into position.

Atlantic, I'm not that old, 36, but drywall is not that hard, I picked up everything I needed to know in the first 6 months. I'm a quick learner though.

I loved it. My favorite part was hanging, especially ceilings. I have bad ankles though and had to get out plus it doesn't pay worth a crap.

Dave.

P.S. In a situation as in the picture above, double hang the wall to get past the lip.


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

*THANK YOU but a bit more clarification*

How about those popular all included fibre glass shower encloser with door sliding and everything provided, should those be nail/screw to studs directly also? or those are treated differently... just because that was the unit I am using for my basement bathroom...

thank you


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Every tub that I have ever seen always screws directly to the studs.

Dave.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Big Dave said:


> .... plus it doesn't pay worth a crap.
> 
> Dave.


Agreed there. That is why we 'branched out' and got our GC License. We leave the hanging now for the young guys with young backs who can hang 40 sheets in a day....

We still run a Drywall/Taping division in our company that my biz. partner oversees. (Way, way back in the day it was just me and him - I'll be 39 this year)

Some home owners would get all flustered when we would show up at the start of a job (They expecting him and I there, to do all the work) Instead, we would set up a crew of our hangers & tapers to work and we would leave. They would ask:  "Where are you 2 going?" 

Ha, ha...the 'old guys' don't do this anymore.....
But,
Now a days, out of all the phases of construction we do, I find doing any facet of finish carpentry to be the most enjoyable and the most rewarding...

(p.s. - J187, Sorry about 'High-jacking' your thread  )

-Build Well-


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

*why then*

Thanks again Dave, may be I am too unexperience but, how come this web site indicates differently

http://homestore.com/HomeGarden/HomeImprovement/HowTos/HowTos/CRHO_InstallingCornerShowerStall.asp?poe=homestore

Or may be I am talking Apple against Orange ....


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Sorry, my bad. The shower in the picture is a solid surface or marble unit. And you are correct it does mount over the drywall. All tubs that I was talking about were of the fiberglass design. If that is the tub you are going to use then yes hang and finish your drywall after plumbing is done then install the shower unit over it as indicated in the instructions. Caulk up the edges and seams and you are done.

Dave.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

KUIPORNG said:


> Thanks again Dave, may be I am too unexperience but, how come this web site indicates differently
> 
> http://homestore.com/HomeGarden/HomeImprovement/HowTos/HowTos/CRHO_InstallingCornerShowerStall.asp?poe=homestore
> 
> Or may be I am talking Apple against Orange ....


 
Right now, we are doing 2 bathrooms that we are installing similar 'corner' shower units.

1 of the units calls for installation ONTO the wall (i.e. Cement board/Durarock). The reason for that is because it is a CHEAPLY made unit that is very flimsy and needs that extra wall 'support' to make it 'less flexible' and more ridgid and sturdier. 

The other unit is of a higher quality and is designed to be installed directly onto the wall studs. 

Big Dave is right, virtually all shower and tub units are made to be directly installed onto wood stud framing. I have done many remodels and new home builds and such an installation onto sheetrock is highly unusual. I wouldn't recommend buying such a unit. This is also the recommendation of 2 of my plumbers.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Atlantic, no worry for any hijacking, talk away. Its not like you guys are talking about sports here, its all good info for anyone who reads the thread. 

yeah, that picture is just some random pic I found that would show the flange I'm talking about.

I think I'm just about ready to finish up here, so thanks very much to everyone for all the info. 

Atlantic- You've been so quick on the draw w/ all my questions and your help is much appreciated and has definitely guided me through this project when the road hits a bump. It was probably not the greatest idea for me to try and tackle a 90% bathroom remodel for my first home project ever, but I basically had no choice and so far, its coming out awesome! I currently live and work only 20 minutes away from you, you are in Chelsea, right? Anyone I hear of that is doing work to their home and does not wish to go the DIY route, I will surely refer to you. Thanks again to all.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

J187,

Glad that I could help in even a small way and Glad to hear that things are going great. The key is doing what you're doing: "Asking questions". (I still do - all the time - when in unfamiliar waters) 
This project will give you the courage and belief in your own abilities to tackle more projects. Some people have a natural 'knack' for it. Who knows, maybe some day I'll see your card out there in the same area of work. Alot of contractors started out exactly the way you are. My Biz. partner's cousin did: He started by doing remodeling on his own home. Then, we did work on his next project: his 1st purchased home remodel job back in the mid 80's, now his company is all over the place with his own in-house architects and designers.

BTW - We are actually based in Chelmsford, but do work in Boston and all around you, ..... down into RI.

Good Luck and 

-Build Well -


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## capefun (Aug 27, 2008)

*Slight variation on above*

Hi,

This is my first post so appologies for posting this to the wrong spot.

I am in the process of finishing around my shower with tile similar to the previous posts. However, aside from tiling, my main difference is that my shower does not have a continous wall where the flange screws in. There is only enough wall to support the flange and then it turns 90 degrees. Therefore, I only have about a 2" space that I need to finish. I hope to tile this area and am wondering how to fill the gap prior to tiling. Above the shower, I have installed Wonderboard. Should I just cut a long 2" length of Wonderboard and screw it on top of the flange?

Thanks


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