# Ranch to cantilever 2 story?



## Badfish740 (Oct 29, 2006)

My home is a ranch roughly 23' x 50', two bedrooms, 1 full bath. The roof is standard A-frame rafter/ridgeboard design. The ceiling joists are 2x8 16" on center and span about 10'-6". If we were to add a second floor I would like to cantilever the front and rear to pick up extra square footage. Would it be a safe assumption to say that we could sister 2x12s to each joist and cantilever 24"? I understand that certain areas vary in terms of how far you can cantilever without involving an engineer, but I was just wondering if a contractor could chime and tell me if it looks good at face value. Basically we're talking about a 2x12 with supported length of 10'-6" (the span) and a cantilever of 24". I've also read that the general rule of thumb is that the supported span must be 3 times the length of the cantilever so I believe this also passes. The cantilevered portion would be supporting the front and rear exterior walls and the roof which would be a simple A-frame rafter/ridgeboard with the ceiling joists supported by a center load bearing wall. Just curious as it would be nice for my second floor to be 27' wide instead of 23'.


----------



## butlersprints (Nov 28, 2008)

Badfish740 said:


> My home is a ranch roughly 23' x 50', two bedrooms, 1 full bath. The roof is standard A-frame rafter/ridgeboard design. The ceiling joists are 2x8 16" on center and span about 10'-6". If we were to add a second floor I would like to cantilever the front and rear to pick up extra square footage. Would it be a safe assumption to say that we could sister 2x12s to each joist and cantilever 24"? I understand that certain areas vary in terms of how far you can cantilever without involving an engineer, but I was just wondering if a contractor could chime and tell me if it looks good at face value. Basically we're talking about a 2x12 with supported length of 10'-6" (the span) and a cantilever of 24". I've also read that the general rule of thumb is that the supported span must be 3 times the length of the cantilever so I believe this also passes. The cantilevered portion would be supporting the front and rear exterior walls and the roof which would be a simple A-frame rafter/ridgeboard with the ceiling joists supported by a center load bearing wall. Just curious as it would be nice for my second floor to be 27' wide instead of 23'.


First & fore most ? What type of foundation do you have, & it's condition to support the new level? Also a frequent forgotton Thing in the planning, make a chase for second level wiring, heating & plumbing. :thumbsup:


----------



## Badfish740 (Oct 29, 2006)

butlersprints said:


> First & fore most ? What type of foundation do you have, & it's condition to support the new level? Also a frequent forgotton Thing in the planning, make a chase for second level wiring, heating & plumbing. :thumbsup:


I knew I forgot something... Full basement, 8x16 concrete block, no idea on footings. Center support girder is 3 2x12s supported by 6" steel lally columns every eight feet. No signs of any serious cracking, settling, etc...


----------



## Aggie67 (Dec 20, 2008)

Before I moved in 2007, I priced out adding a floor to my ranch. Guy up the street to did an awesome job on his 2 years prior. I spoke to the building department, and they wouldn't let me self perform the job without a set of prints from an architect (I'm licensed, but in NJ I can't seal anything for myself). 

Two things came out of the process. First, being in the biz I priced it pretty accurately, and a complete tear down was cheaper per square foot when you DIY and factor in the foundation reinforcement I had to do (1962 cinder blocks, not CMU's). Second, the market turned, and I got more bang for my dollar finding another house. So I sold and bought another house.

But to answer your question, you should have an architect or engineer put plans together. Part of that process will be an evaluation of the foundation. But be engaged in the process: tell them what you want. If you want cantilevers, tell them, and they'll figure out the right way to do it. I have a 1975 bi-level now, and it has 30 inch cantilevers front and back. It's basic platform framing. Nothing crazy.


----------

