# Concrete Dome Home



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Never heard of Henry's? I assume it's like Samson Paint?

Sound like you need some type of epoxy concree fix for any cracks, injected by needle to fill from the bottom outwards, of course. Then clean, dry, dust off and paint.


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## CNM Design (May 5, 2009)

This is what i will be using to make my underground home. 
I think the possibilities are high that if you can avg. 7-8,000psi out of a possible 12,000 with one inch inside and out, and use 2# EPU, you could do away with the rebar, plus it’s water proof after 3/8 inch. No blistering, it does not shrink or expand with the temp. It is 20 to 30% lighter than cement. It is seamless, you can spray one day, go back a week later and finish up. Not effected by salt. Can be made with salt water and beach sand. I think it’s still around 20-25$ for 50#.

http://www.brownhomes.org/Brochures/Wat ... esults.pdf

http://www.brownhomes.org/ 

http://www.brownhomes.org/Brochures/Cov ... art_r3.pdf

http://www.grancrete.net/videos/index.cfm

Hope this helps


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## Lbucher (Jun 7, 2009)

*dome home*

Have you had any sucess in using Henry's? We also have a contrete dome home with the same problem.


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## prestigeroofing (Jun 8, 2009)

Hello all I am new to this site but was sent here by a customer who thought I could help others out with their Geodesic Domes. We have specialized in geodesic dome homes for over 35 years. I own a roofing company which is due to my father owning a Geodesic Dome Construction company. The problems that you are having with the cracking inside is common and is due to expansion and contraction that domes do. If you do not have a cupola installed on the dome it will be worse than those that do due to inadequate ventilation. The manufacturer is correct, stay away from elastomerics because that will completely seal the dome and add to the ventilation problem. If you could post a few Pics I should be able to help a little more. There are a few tricks to stopping the interior cracks. Feel free to contact me via email or this site.
www.newagedomeconstruction.com
www.prestigeroofingconcepts.com


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## Lbucher (Jun 7, 2009)

*roofing*

Can you put a roof on a concrete dome?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

prestigeroofing said:


> There are a few tricks to stopping the interior cracks.


please feel free to share them with all of us here! i'd like to know.....

DM


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## prestigeroofing (Jun 8, 2009)

*sheetrock cracks*

Ok just so I am clear, on a geodesic dome the expansion and contraction of the structure will create cracks along the sheetrock seams using traditional compound. A proven way to prevent the cracking is to use Benjamin Moore elastomeric patch knife grade. What we do is along the outer perimeter of every triangle is thin the patch to compound consistency and apply like standard sheetrock compound. Also we use the mesh seam tape along the seams. Not endorsing any particular product just wanted to pass along what works well. Hope this helps and good luck. 

Dan


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## prestigeroofing (Jun 8, 2009)

Lbucher said:


> Can you put a roof on a concrete dome?


 
Most certainly. I also responded to your email finally. Sorry traveling a lot lately. 

Dan


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## CNM Design (May 5, 2009)

The answer to all your problems?
 
If you don’t use this, you are not really interested in fixing your problem correctly. 


http://www.grancrete.net/


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## Eric L (Sep 21, 2011)

Hello, I own a geodesic dome in Northeast Ohio and I was hoping you could help. I need a new roof, and would really like to get in touch with someone who knows and understands these. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


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## -Q- (Apr 27, 2009)

Eric L said:


> help


 Well, I've had the home for 5 or 6 years now and I'm slowly just watching it fall to ruin. Still haven't found a solution or anyone to help. 

I had resigned to pay for a Rhino Shield treatment (like the truck-bed stuff, they do that for houses now too!) but the full Monty quote was $40k, when we asked for a breakdown of the quote he said he couldn't do that, it would just be $40K. So that fell through 

Currently the plaster is falling off all over the inside from the outside leaks and when it rains we put buckets all over in their now "designated locations", heh. Although we are well beyond the problem of "a leak and a crack", in general concrete can be frustrating to the interior since any water coming in first soaks into the concrete, then works its way through the soaked concrete to wherever it feels it should go, and eventually works out through any plaster that also decided it has already soaked up enough water or where there's a crack for it to run off.

I'll PM you my normal email address to offer any of my experience though since any data might be helpful data when troubleshooting or choosing a direction to go.


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## shazapple (Jun 30, 2011)

Why not cover it with a modbit or EDPM membrane?

For the flat areas, what is there for insulation? If you are looking to get slope for drainage you can add tapered insulation and top it with one of the above mentioned membranes.

Henry (aka Bakor) and others have elastomeric coatings that you might be able to use. I have no experience with these on a concrete surface though


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

I would think the EPDM would end up horribly wrinkled. Drape a towel over a basketball and you will see what I mean.


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

sixeightten said:


> I would think the EPDM would end up horribly wrinkled. Drape a towel over a basketball and you will see what I mean.


You would obviously have to seam it to conform to the panels. Any membrane roof has seams and if done correctly they're not a problem at all!


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## Eric L (Sep 21, 2011)

-Q-
I don't know a lot about concrete domes, the geodesics are quite different from what you descrbe. However, I did find a website called www.dometimes.com and it's a collection of people who live in, or appreciate dome homes. You may want to try that group to source some solutions, as you may find someone who lives in, or has experience with concrete domes. I hope you find something that works for you


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## prestigeroofing (Jun 8, 2009)

*Geodesic Dome roof.*

The situation you are in is a very common one for dome home owner's. Also one I am very familiar with, as this what we do. We are based in Savannah, GA and have re-roofed domes from Canyon Lake, CA to, currently north of Burlington, VT. We are a full service roofing company that install types of roof systems but domes are a different animal entirely. One thing to be aware of is to not believe everything you hear. The reason you will not find us advertising everywhere is that our customers should be the first place to enquire as to whether a specialized dome roofed is and/or was needed. I am on a dome now in VT as I stated and am enroute to Baltimore, with two other dome stops en-route. Feel free to contact me via email and I will put you in contact with any and all of the hundreds of customers that you would like to have your roof replaced once correct as opposed to several times in the same 30 year span. It seems strange that someone actually specializes in these roofs but you will find my father on Dome Times explaining what I have stated here. His company is New Age Dome Construction. I hope to hear from you it is terrible to he re-roofing a home that was done only a few years ago and finding the damage that we find in such a short period of time. 
Sincerely,
Dan Johnson
Prestige Roofing Concepts LLC
Owner / President


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## prestigeroofing (Jun 8, 2009)

shazapple said:


> Why not cover it with a modbit or EDPM membrane?
> 
> For the flat areas, what is there for insulation? If you are looking to get slope for drainage you can add tapered insulation and top it with one of the above mentioned membranes.
> 
> Henry (aka Bakor) and others have elastomeric coatings that you might be able to use. I have no experience with these on a concrete surface though


If you attempt to do this you will see the home rot from the inside out in an even shorter period of time. Please contact me for a client reference list. Do not take someone's word for it talk to people who have been there and now have the proper roof system installed.


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## prestigeroofing (Jun 8, 2009)

-Q- said:


> Well, I've had the home for 5 or 6 years now and I'm slowly just watching it fall to ruin. Still haven't found a solution or anyone to help.
> 
> I had resigned to pay for a Rhino Shield treatment (like the truck-bed stuff, they do that for houses now too!) but the full Monty quote was $40k, when we asked for a breakdown of the quote he said he couldn't do that, it would just be $40K. So that fell through
> 
> ...


I do not get time often to respond to this board. Q feel free to contact me via email, I have it on me all the time. Also look into Dome Times and read what John Johnson has posted. Ensure you do your homework and check all of the Dome customers of the proposed roofed before making a decision. Also, again sealing a dome off such as with an elastomeric or rubber membrane, even Grace ice and water is bad news. Talk to the customers I am working for right now. Thanks Dan.


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## shazapple (Jun 30, 2011)

prestigeroofing said:


> If you attempt to do this you will see the home rot from the inside out in an even shorter period of time. Please contact me for a client reference list. Do not take someone's word for it talk to people who have been there and now have the proper roof system installed.


So what would be the preferred method of re-roofing these things? I've never come across one so I assumed they would be similar to a concrete deck type roof.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

*bump- Q any solution????*

I know this is an old post but I hope the OP is listening. I too have an AID-ome that had absolutely junk concrete work done on the seams. It was unfinished inside, just framing and an electrical box. And it was leaking like a sieve. The first night we "camped" inside it rained and we could only find one spot directly under the cupola that wasn't dripping Oh well I thought I knew what I was getting into
I chiseled out cracks then used concrete caulk to fill. Once that was done I used a elastomaric paint. Worked OK for about 3 years now leaks are starting again. Rather than caulking and repainting every two years has anyone come up with a better solution for these AID-omes? I'm seriously considering attaching a wood framework then sheathing and shingles Would love to hear any real solutions. AID-omes is about useless when it comes to talking about leaks. Not good do future biz I suppose:whistling2:


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

My choice would be to use LIC Lightweight insulating concrete on the low slope areas, sloped at 1/4 inch per foot minimum to drain, then install a fully adhered fleece backed membrane like Fibertite 45 mil FBXT, or Sarnafil 60 Mil Fleece backed membrane with proper base and counter flashings to the dome. For the dome I would spray it with polyurethane foam and coat it with silicone. 

The urethane foam will kill the expansion and contraction, and the fleece backed membrane on the low slope areas will provide a shear plane to deal with the movement. 

You can use the fleece backed material on the dome also, but you are going to have a lot of waste, and no insulation so SPUF is the best way to go there.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

Hi jagas - don't know about the light weight concrete but that spray polyurethane roofing foam looks like it might be the real deal solution! I've contacted two contractors in my area to get estimates.:thumbup:


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Edward50 said:


> Hi jagas - don't know about the light weight concrete but that spray polyurethane roofing foam looks like it might be the real deal solution! I've contacted two contractors in my area to get estimates.:thumbup:


That is the only solution that I would use. Lightweight insulating concrete is used all the time over concrete decks to get slope and add R- Value. The benefit to it is that you do not have to miter it at 45 degrees to get 4 way slope. It is the best way to accomplish what you are trying to do. Your low slope roofs that abut your dome should be done first, and a proper counter flashing should be installed. They should then be protected, and PUF should be applied to your dome. All moisture should be removed before applying foam. Proper prep is everything, as usual. I bet Your energy bills are going to be cut in half.


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## bobinphx (Nov 25, 2011)

ok....this will sound nuts.. but what about fiberglass and resin =, then gelcoat. I have a flat roof and fiberglass and resin 5 years ago and it water proof and has not changed at all, even in the phoenix sun.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Domes, Quonset huts and Oil Storage tanks are the perfect application for spray applied polyurethane foam with a silicone coating.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

Bobinphx - I've thought about fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've been building/repairing sailboats for many years and have wetted out hundreds of yards of cloth. Man what a mess and the thought of about 1100sqft  Plus it's a pain to do on anything but horizontal surface, point up Off horizonal it's usually a multi wet out. So for me it's no DIY project.
Did you DIY or hire the work? What was the cost if you don't mind?

Does anyone have experience with the SPF roofing, i.e. DIY? Where did you buy the tools and foam? For this Dome I'd need to rent a lifter for the application. Thanks for any inputs.
Edward


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Edward50 said:


> Bobinphx - I've thought about fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've been building/repairing sailboats for many years and have wetted out hundreds of yards of cloth. Man what a mess and the thought of about 1100sqft  Plus it's a pain to do on anything but horizontal surface, point up Off horizonal it's usually a multi wet out. So for me it's no DIY project.
> Did you DIY or hire the work? What was the cost if you don't mind?
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the SPF roofing, i.e. DIY? Where did you buy the tools and foam? For this Dome I'd need to rent a lifter for the application. Thanks for any inputs.
> Edward


Spraying your Dome with SPUF is not a DIY job. It is something you want a professional to do. The equipment is expensive, and learning to apply foam evenly, and in the correct thickness takes time. Some things are better left to the pro's. This is one of them.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

Talked with an installer yesterday. Looks like the cost will be in the $5k-$6K range for about 1100sqft 3inch thick. That's the full Monty, cleaning, etching, SPF, then covering with primer and two top coats of a silicon based paint. The price also includes lift rental for a week about $800. 
Does that price seem reasonable/competitive? 
They said the paint should be good for 10years before a repaint is needed. I suppose the repaint can be DIY

I have no idea how much even standard roofing costs. I was a roofer about 35 years ago installing cedar shakes but I never knew the cost even then, just put them on


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Edward50 said:


> Talked with an installer yesterday. Looks like the cost will be in the $5k-$6K range for about 1100sqft 3inch thick. That's the full Monty, cleaning, etching, SPF, then covering with primer and two top coats of a silicon based paint. The price also includes lift rental for a week about $800.
> Does that price seem reasonable/competitive?
> They said the paint should be good for 10years before a repaint is needed. I suppose the repaint can be DIY
> 
> I have no idea how much even standard roofing costs. I was a roofer about 35 years ago installing cedar shakes but I never knew the cost even then, just put them on


We are not supposed to discuss price, but it seems reasonable to me. Preparation is key. There must be no moisture in the existing roof, because foam rises by catalytic action which creates a lot of heat. Heat + Water = Steam = Blister. 

The foam has to be applied in lifts to get 3 inch thickness.

Installation of correct cut in counter flashings at low slope areas is critical, and is the weak point in most foam contractors knowledge bank.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

Hi Jagans - Thanks very much for that info but you lost me at "Counter flashing":confused1: I know what flashing is on a standard shingle type. 

Also do you mean a lift as in cherry picker type? That's what I was speaking of due to the dome shape you can only walk ther first row of triangles and even then every other one is a little steeper and I'm playing spiderman crossing those

Trying to get a 2nd estimate, thanks again for your input on fair price.
Edward 
Cold and wet in Maine:cursing:


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## bobinphx (Nov 25, 2011)

Edward50 said:


> Bobinphx - I've thought about fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've been building/repairing sailboats for many years and have wetted out hundreds of yards of cloth. Man what a mess and the thought of about 1100sqft  Plus it's a pain to do on anything but horizontal surface, point up Off horizonal it's usually a multi wet out. So for me it's no DIY project.
> Did you DIY or hire the work? What was the cost if you don't mind?
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the SPF roofing, i.e. DIY? Where did you buy the tools and foam? For this Dome I'd need to rent a lifter for the application. Thanks for any inputs.
> Edward


I did it myself. I put in all new decking (3/4 inch), new cant strips, new scuppers. I didnt have any issue with the vertical installation. I first used a very thinned resin mix to seal the roof deck. Then glass and resin. Then another layer of glass and resin, then gel coat. I took a week off to do the whole thing,,, by myself. It was all really easy, except for the odor... I wore a good respirator so for me it was not bad... but the wife left the house when I was using resin. as for cost... the garage is 25 by 25 so 625 sq feet, not counting the parapets.. total cost was 1000 dollars... well below the 1700 to 3000 for any other "real" roofing options... the white gelcoat does keep the garage cool, but when it does rain, its noisy compaired to the 3 layers of asphalt that was there. Of course the entire roof is much lighter weight then the old one!!!!


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Edward50 said:


> Hi Jagans - Thanks very much for that info but you lost me at "Counter flashing":confused1: I know what flashing is on a standard shingle type.
> 
> Also do you mean a lift as in cherry picker type? That's what I was speaking of due to the dome shape you can only walk ther first row of triangles and even then every other one is a little steeper and I'm playing spiderman crossing those
> 
> ...


Counter Flashing to cover down over base flashing on low slope roofs. Figure C is probably most appropriate for your application.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

I've spoken to a couple installers and one is telling me the protective UV paint "Gaco Flex S-20" would perform the job of sealing hair line cracks and the SPF is not needed if the insulating value is not needed. We already have 9inchs of the expanded something something foam (white beer cooler foam) so I don't really need more insulation. Call me frugal:whistling2:
So does anyone have experience with the silicone "super" paint?? I'm going to speak with the regional rep Monday, what smart questions should I ask??
Thanks
Edward
Cold and wet in Maine


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

Just for ref here is our house, ALL ROOF


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

where is the EPS located on your house? Frankly I dont really get what you have there. I was expecting to see concrete. One of the major features of PUF is to retard movement due to thermal change. It is also seamless. Most people so not understand elastomeric coatings and sealants, and how they work. If an eleastomeric coating is fully bonded to a substrate that moves, or cracks, the crack will transmit right through the coating. A bond breaker is needed for anything that is elastomeric to work. You see this all the time where sealant cracks right down the middle in an improperly designed joint without a backerod as a bond breaker.


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## Edward50 (Apr 21, 2013)

Hi Jagans - Your looking at the concrete. The EPS foam is bonded to the inside of each triangle and then a 1/4" drywall(crappy drywall that is) is bonded to the foam. 
Actually what your looking at is the Kool Seal elastomeric paint :laughing: The blue is plain old acrylic latex house paint. 
Those horrid bulges at the seams of each tangle is where the "professional" concrete men tried to initially repair the cracking seams by slapping concrete over the surface. Now the leak can originate from two or three places instead of one on the seam
Count me as one not knowing how the elastomeric coating works then:confused1: How could you possibly have a "bond breaker" between the "water proofing paint" and the concrete,metal, ect..


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

No, you misunderstand me. A bond breaker is needed where movement is expected. The PUF should take care of panel to panel movement, so I still think that PUF is the way for you to go. I am somewhat concerned about trapped moisture, but the guy you had did mention that he was going to take care of that I think. Again, the use of the foam here is to reduce movement, and to create a seamless surface onto which the silicone coating can be applied, it is not for R-Value. 

There are other coatings that can be applied to foam, and maybe the Graco material is one of them. The advantage to silicone is that it is not organic, and therefore not nearly as subject to attack by organisms like black mold, or red algae, as organic coatings are. Your flat roof areas are small so I would probably just foam them also.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I haven't used or heard of Graco but I have Gaco. I used it on top of our RV and it worked great for us, it is a little pricy and it will work over foam. Just contact the people and talk to them about how to prep and use the product. I am very satisfied with it. Oh and you will need the tape for the joints, by all means get the tape that you stick down, the unglued stuff is the pits to use.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

BigJim said:


> I haven't used or heard of Graco but I have Gaco. I used it on top of our RV and it worked great for us, it is a little pricy and it will work over foam. Just contact the people and talk to them about how to prep and use the product. I am very satisfied with it. Oh and you will need the tape for the joints, by all means get the tape that you stick down, the unglued stuff is the pits to use.


Sorry, I am not that familiar with all of the current coatings for foam. I was with an engineerinf firm that had the national account to do the inspections on the Dow Silicone over PUF system, and one of my colleagues handled that and said it was a good coating. I remember him saying that he found a lot of problems in other types of coatings. I handled all of the Specifications for low slope roofing like BUR, Single Ply, and also Metal Roofing. My feeling regarding foam is that it is great for domes, Quonset huts, storage tanks and things that have pretty good slope. I never specified it for low slope applications, because I saw a lot of failures in low slope roofs where foam was applied.


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