# Installing Trex Transcend = unsquare ends ? (Picture Included)



## bikerrrrr (Aug 17, 2012)

Just getting ready to install TrexTransend decking and noticed that none of the ends on the decking are square, requiring a cut on both ends to square things up.

Is this standard for Trex Products? It's got me bothered. 

Thanks


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Any material is like that, if you measure it you will see it's longer then what you think you bought. A 12' pieces is longer then 12'. Just trim it and move on.
Just make sure to use a speed square and check your own saw.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

When possible I let my decking hang past the frame, then mark a 3/4" or 1" nosing, snap a line and cut them all at once.


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## Marbledust (Jun 26, 2010)

After you cut it square use a router and smooth the cut with a round over bit,as is on the factory edge,even on the butt joints,pre drill the deck face and screw er down too.


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## Hammer450R (Aug 17, 2012)

With Trex you always want it to hang over, it grows so much in the sun it will push out anything you try to band it with. Also leave a good 1/2" at your railings so it doesnt push them out too. Longer the board the more it grows.


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## robertcdf (Nov 12, 2005)

Marbledust said:


> After you cut it square use a router and smooth the cut with a round over bit,as is on the factory edge,even on the butt joints,pre drill the deck face and screw er down too.


DO NOT router a CAP layer decking product, it'll look like garbage and remove the protective cap. And please don't use face screws, use the HFS their designed to allow expansion/contraction and they make the deck look so much better. 

It's common for every decking and wood product to come like that. Like others have said let the ends hang over and cut them all at once.


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## robertcdf (Nov 12, 2005)

Hammer450R said:


> With Trex you always want it to hang over, it grows so much in the sun it will push out anything you try to band it with. Also leave a good 1/2" at your railings so it doesnt push them out too. Longer the board the more it grows.


Make sure to look at the MANUFACTURES guide for each product line, some have more thermal expansion and some have less, ALWAYS look at the manufactures install instructions for the specific product line you are installing.


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## Hammer450R (Aug 17, 2012)

robertcdf said:


> Make sure to look at the MANUFACTURES guide for each product line, some have more thermal expansion and some have less, ALWAYS look at the manufactures install instructions for the specific product line you are installing.


+1 ^^^ And that goes for everything!


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

Depending on how big that deck is and how many butt joints, by the time you get to later cuts you may be more than a 16th off yourself, or ready to just say, "It's close enuff."
Question for robertcdf, aside from the looks, and I agree, that can leave it looking like a chewed up rubber eraser, what's the difference between routing and just cutting? There's no protection on that raw end.


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## robertcdf (Nov 12, 2005)

notmrjohn said:


> Depending on how big that deck is and how many butt joints, by the time you get to later cuts you may be more than a 16th off yourself, or ready to just say, "It's close enuff."
> Question for robertcdf, aside from the looks, and I agree, that can leave it looking like a chewed up rubber eraser, what's the difference between routing and just cutting? There's no protection on that raw end.


A cap layer decking product is just that, it has a CAP layer that covers the core. It would be like routering an edge on a laminate countertop after the laminate has been installed.


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## Hammer450R (Aug 17, 2012)

I like to ease the edge with a router on butt joints and i also leave an 1/8" space at the butt joint. But then again i only use blind fasteners.
Screws in the top of the deck is so lame in comparison IMO


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