# drywall primer choice



## autx790 (Aug 30, 2009)

Sorry, this topic is probably frequent, but i've searched and googled and haven't seen a discussion or review on the paint i'm looking at. I'm trying to figure out what primer to use for new drywall. I saw lowes has a valspar drywall primer that says it hides imperfections and is also well reviewed, but my local paint store, which i'd prefer to shop at has Pittsburgh Paints speedhide high build primer. I'm not familiar with that paint. Would that be better than the Valspar and a good choice? They're about the same price around $50/5 gallons.


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## iminaquagmire (Jul 10, 2010)

Use the Speedhide.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

iminaquagmire said:


> Use the Speedhide.


 
most assuredly :yes:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

One coat before and after texturing: http://gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-2010.html

I'll move you to "Painting".

Gary


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

GBR in WA said:


> One coat before and after texturing: http://gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-2010.html
> 
> I'll move you to "Painting".
> 
> Gary


Who mentioned texturing?:huh:


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## autx790 (Aug 30, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback! I bought 10 gallons of the speedhide and so far am a bit disappointed. It does not seem to hide any imperfections and is so far going to take 2 coats. I did one room and after the first coat I could still easily see the grey behind the drywall. It was covered with the paint but still showed through. I put a second coat on (assuming this was necessary) and to get one room, which is about 14x14 done (walls and ceiling) took me about 3 gallons. So i'm trying to figure if the paint is no good or am i no good. Do I really need 2 coats? And does this paint really not cover more area per gallon?


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

imo no primer is going to hide imperfections:no:, now minimize ok i buy that.1 coat of primer at proper spread rate. dip and roll dip and roll don't stretch you coverage and run roller dry. then 2 coats quality latex paint in a flat ,or no more than a satin finish


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

autx790 said:


> Thanks for the feedback! I bought 10 gallons of the speedhide and so far am a bit disappointed. It does not seem to hide any imperfections and is so far going to take 2 coats. I did one room and after the first coat I could still easily see the grey behind the drywall. It was covered with the paint but still showed through. I put a second coat on (assuming this was necessary) and to get one room, which is about 14x14 done (walls and ceiling) took me about 3 gallons. So i'm trying to figure if the paint is no good or am i no good. Do I really need 2 coats? And does this paint really not cover more area per gallon?


Drywall primer really isn't used to hide the color of the drywall. It's used for sealing and adhesion. After 1 coat, you'll almost certainly still see your taped joints & screw holes. 

If your mudding is done right, you won't have a problem. The paint will cover everything.


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## autx790 (Aug 30, 2009)

Thanks guys. I wasn't sure if being able to still see the drywall color showing through meant it wasn't completely sealed and would need a second coat. I'll proceed on with laying 1 coat primer on well and then doing 2 finish coats. I guess I also had it in my head that people had said if you use a good primer you wouldn't need two finish coats and it's better to do 2 coats primer because it costs less.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

autx790 said:


> Thanks guys. I wasn't sure if being able to still see the drywall color showing through meant it wasn't completely sealed and would need a second coat. I'll proceed on with laying 1 coat primer on well and then doing 2 finish coats. I guess I also had it in my head that people had said if you use a good primer you wouldn't need two finish coats and it's better to do 2 coats primer because it costs less.[/quote]
> 
> 
> It may cost ess but it is NOT the way to do it. As already posted 1 coat of primer( which will not hide imperfections and will show through) 2 finish coats.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

chrisn, when I saw "I'm trying to figure out what primer to use for *new *drywall.", I figured since he was* painting* it that the application would be in a living space, not the garage. Very rarely do we see someone skim coating (with one coat of primer) rather than texturing questions on this forum. Many people don't understand the value of primer before texturing, as I'm sure you do. So, I added my 2 cents, sorry if that answer doesn't fit in with your line of thinking. 

Gary


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

GBR in WA said:


> chrisn, when I saw "I'm trying to figure out what primer to use for *new *drywall.", I figured since he was* painting* it that the application would be in a living space, not the garage. Very rarely do we see someone skim coating (with one coat of primer) rather than texturing questions on this forum. Many people don't understand the value of primer before texturing, as I'm sure you do. So, I added my 2 cents, sorry if that answer doesn't fit in with your line of thinking.
> 
> Gary


 
No need for sarcasm. I still do not get the texturing part. He said he was painting new drywall and wanted to know what primer to use. I also assumed it was in a living space not the garage. I see no mention of skim coating or texturing( which to me is applying a textured coat of JC) Maybe I am just stupid.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I wasn’t trying to be sarcastic, sorry if it came across that way. Very hard to read someone's body language over the internet with just words. I also have difficulty putting my words in to writing, I don't type like I talk..... plus, I don't use the smiles or other icons available.
You are certainly not stupid as I enjoy reading your experienced answers in "Painting'. As said, the OP said new drywall- I presumed texturing, perhaps wrong, maybe not. This isn't a big deal to me, many posters add information they want to share, irrelevant or not... what's the point, no harm-no foul? I just read on, ignoring the answer unless it is a wrong answer. I will then back-up the correct answer with a site or two to prove my point.

Just showing the new drywall boards, including taped joints and ends, would need priming/sealing before texturing or they would stand-out later, telegraphing through--ghosting. Priming after to meet the paint warranty and provide better stick for the color coat. http://books.google.com/books?id=lO...nepage&q=prime drywall before texture&f=false I added that when I read "priming new drywall" = ghosting----that's how my brain works.


If there is still a problem here, PM me and we can discuss it further, not to take further valuable space from the OP.

Gary


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

One thing it is easy to forget- some parts of the country always texture walls- some always leave smooth. We tend to think from what we deal with ourselves. 
I know Chris is from the smooth part...


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Brushjockey said:


> One thing it is easy to forget- some parts of the country always texture walls- some always leave smooth. We tend to think from what we deal with ourselves.
> I know Chris is from the smooth part...


 
That' s it, eureka! :yes:I knew I was missing something:whistling2:


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

This is true, I'm from the smooth part as well. Rarely, very rarely, do I ever encounter textured walls. The only thing I see mostly is popcorn (gag) ceilings, and even those are losing popularity. That's probably due to the realization of the difficulty in touching up or repainting, not very practical or cost effective. I'm sensing that texture is the rule rather than exception in parts of the country, though I can't see why, and can understand an assumption. I've never learned how to recreate texture, so I guess I can't leave the confines of the smooth walled region, whew!


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## ryan5068 (Apr 28, 2010)

http://www.usg.com/sheetrock-first-coat-primer.html 
This is the only brand I use. Really thick and applies beautifully. It sells at Menards for sure not sure abou the other big box stores.


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