# Repair pitting in cinder block wall....



## stupid48 (Aug 8, 2011)

We have a cinder block wall around our house. We used to have grass but have put in a pool and desert landscaping instead. There is damage along the bottom of the wall caused by the grass sprinklers. It's not too bad. There are some small holes that I will use hydraulic cement (dap quick plug) to patch. What I would like to try and fix is the erosion and pitting and make it a little smoother. I guess I could try using the same stuff but I was thinking of some kind of cement-based material that I could trowel on. As well, I would expect to need some kind of bonding agent? It's really just along one course along the bottom. The reason I am doing this is that I want to paint the wall. Thanks for any advice....

Chris


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## FlyingHammer (Jun 22, 2009)

Google "how to parge a block wall".

Here's a good explanation of the process: http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/leonard57.html


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## stupid48 (Aug 8, 2011)

So what you're saying is that I need to almost do stucco but without the lime.... Can I just do it on the block face and not fill in the grout joints? The mortar joints seem to be o.k. It's just the face on the blocks....


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## stupid48 (Aug 8, 2011)

Actually, after reading the article, it seems that parging would be the way to go. There are some parts where the block has eroded enough where there is an actual hole in some spots. Here are pictures. The one hole (which was roughly repaired) is rather big (2 inches by 1 inch). I read about using the Quick Plug by forming a cone shape in your hand and then pushing it into the hole and skimming off excess. Then I can parge with portland cememnt and sand. Does this seem reasonable?


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Use "Quick Plug" (actually hydraulic cement) or fill the hole and them parge in the traditional manner.


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## stupid48 (Aug 8, 2011)

I notice Quick Plug has a 28 day cure time. Are you aware of another product for filling holes that does not require that much time? I kind of don't want to have to wait that long before I parge over top...

Thanks again...


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Hydrolic cement needs to be mixed in small batches because it drys in min.
What you may be reading is for it to fully cure. 
It can be parged over within an hour of applying it.


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## stupid48 (Aug 8, 2011)

Thanks for the advice!!


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Stupid -

The 28 days is the normal time required to meet the specified strength (whatever that may be) and not the time required for the product to produce the desired results. Because of the rapid setting of hydraulic (not hydrolic) cement the actual strength gain is much higher than normal cement if it is applied as directed. It is not a new product, but a generic product that has been used for decades and recently relabeled (like Quick Plug) by various retailers.

If you have ever used it, you will find it cures far quicker than you expect and makes you wish you mixed a smaller batch (sort of like dynamite going off). It is not like normal wet mortar.

Dick


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## stupid48 (Aug 8, 2011)

So, as I said, I have to just repair the bottom course on the wall. I'm trying to start this a.s.a.p. but our weather is kind of cold. We are getting mid to low 60's during the day and 40 degrees at night. Most mixes I found say that the weather should be no colder than 50 degrees over a 24 hour period. Can I protect the wall with something or add something to help?

Thanks....Chris


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Abatron makes an epoxy product you can trowel on. Pricey though.


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