# popcorn removal



## sflamedic (Oct 21, 2006)

I attempted to start removing my popcorn from the ceiling the other day and it did not go as i thought it would. It basically didnt go at all. I tried wetting it down and i mixed fabric softener in the water and still no luck. I am not sure if the ceilings have ever been painted. Any ideas?


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## joewho (Nov 1, 2006)

Sounds like it may be painted. Are you using plenty of water? 

If it were my job, I'd use a wide drywall knife and just scrape the loose material so the exposed compound can absorb water.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

sflamedic said:


> I attempted to start removing my popcorn from the ceiling the other day and it did not go as i thought it would. It basically didnt go at all. I tried wetting it down and i mixed fabric softener in the water and still no luck. I am not sure if the ceilings have ever been painted. Any ideas?


He's what we do when old ceiling texture want co-operate.

2" screws and 3/8" Sheetrock,....go over all of it, tape and sand = new ceilings!


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Fabric softener?

 

Anyway....


How big an area is this?


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## sflamedic (Oct 21, 2006)

yes fabric softener. I read all over that it helps and others have also told me the same thing. I am eventually doing my whole house, but right now its one bedroom.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Well, if the sprayed water didn't even start to turn the popcorn into goo, then it's probably painted
The question is, how much and how tough is the paint

I would take a small test area, and try and scrape or knock off some of the texture
If that works and can expose some unpainted texture, then try and soak the exposed area so the moisture sinks in as joewho described
Leave out the fabric softener though...just water
It'll be messy enough if it works

This should at least give you an idea if it's feasible to even consider the process on the rest of the room, and the rest of the house, or whether you should consider re-rocking, or Atlantic's over-rocking


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## sflamedic (Oct 21, 2006)

what do you mean atlantics over rocking?


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

sflamedic said:


> what do you mean atlantics over rocking?





AtlanticWBConst. said:


> He's what we do when old ceiling texture want co-operate.
> 
> 2" screws and 3/8" Sheetrock,....go over all of it, tape and sand = new ceilings!


Rather than take the old sheetrock down, and "re-(sheet)rock", put new rock _over_ the old


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

sflamedic said:


> what do you mean atlantics over rocking?


As Slick shift mentioned: 

Yes, install new 3/8" Sheetrock right over the old ceiling....Much less labor intensive, especially based on the fact that the popcorn is not coming off....

Find your strapping (unless it is lathing under the old ceiling)....mark the strapping on the walls. Use long drywall screws, about 2" might do it.
Tape, coat, sand, paint....."ta...da".... = New ceiling....

We do it all the time in older homes with bad ceilings, in fact, we have done entire houses with old horse hair plaster this way...walls too
....Doing one next week, as a matter of fact.
Comes out great...


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## Woodpecker (Feb 7, 2007)

Funny thing is My popcorn ceiling had no problem being removed when I decided to paint it with a thick paint roller filled with paint, it was rolling right off onto the roller (after a second pass with the roller, while wet) , exactly what I didn't want.. Maybe you should do the same. hee hee..obviously I was extremely careful with the painting technique after that. I think the trick is to dampen the ceiling quite a bit, use a thick roller (keep rolling it over and over) make sure its very wet and use a wide scraper thereafter, working in small sections, being careful not to nick the ceiling.(funy thing is when I tried to repair the area with what i had on hand, (joint compound), it was also was able to seep through and make the popcorn more pliable, so it was also making it easiy to remove while wet,..
But I do agree., New sheetrock would be easier,(I hate popcorn ceilings), best way to paint it is with a sprayer, (using a very good mask and lots of protective plastic covering everything) and that is no party either. Hmmmmm, I wonder if a wet sanding (sponge) block would help? Good luck, I don't envy you, But I do feel for you...


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Woodpecker said:


> Funny thing is My popcorn ceiling had no problem being removed when I decided to paint it with a thick paint roller filled with paint, it was rolling right off onto the roller (after a second pass with the roller, while wet) , exactly what I didn't want.. Maybe you should do the same. hee hee..obviously I was extremely careful with the painting technique after that. I think the trick is to dampen the ceiling quite a bit, use a thick roller (keep rolling it over and over) make sure its very wet and use a wide scraper thereafter, working in small sections, being careful not to nick the ceiling.(funy thing is when I tried to repair the area with what i had on hand, (joint compound), it was also was able to seep through and make the popcorn more pliable, so it was also making it easiy to remove while wet,..
> But I do agree., New sheetrock would be easier,(I hate popcorn ceilings), best way to paint it is with a sprayer, (using a very good mask and lots of protective plastic covering everything) and that is no party either. Hmmmmm, I wonder if a wet sanding (sponge) block would help? Good luck, I don't envy you, But I do feel for you...


 
Be careful about putting 'too much moisture' onto a ceiling and then trying to scrape the popcorn. 

You will end up taking some of the thin paper face off the actual sheetrock. Then you will have areas of exposed brittle gypum with no paper to hold it up ....


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## Woodpecker (Feb 7, 2007)

Atlantics over rocking, means
Atlantic WBConst. ( the Post reply person)
and over rocking, means to sheetrock right over the old sheetrocked,
'popcorn ceiling' ( which in turn may provide additional insulation) however this may be a problem if you have ceiling fixtures and 
you are not electrically inclined, because you may have to lower the fixture or ceiling fan if you have one. I would make sure all wiring is up to par in the ceiling as well prior to rerocking you don't want to have to rip down 2 layers of sheetrock to get to the elect wiring ( unless of course you have an attic crawl space that provides access.
However, this would be a good time to add or change the ceiling fixtures if you plan to re rock. Trust me I know, I have exactly that problem right now, an electical problem in my ceiling, with no access, and now have to rip down two ceilings for access, ugh, Not looking forward to it either.


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## jamesdart (Jun 7, 2006)

i am doing a renovation in my house, one wall that is left going up the stairs is textured, looks like popcorn, but i guess its been painted so many times its like concrete. i cant rock over it as the stair stringer is on that wall and if i go with 3/8 rock it will be about flush with the stringer and look wierd. i am tired of ripping down plaster in this house as most of the walls have bircks in between the studs. that gets old and sure does develop a ton of waste. my decision is to skim coat the entire wall. i think i will be able to make it better than it is so that will make my wife happy.


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## torpainter (Oct 27, 2006)

Woodpecker said:


> Funny thing is My popcorn ceiling had no problem being removed when I decided to paint it with a thick paint roller filled with paint, it was rolling right off onto the roller (after a second pass with the roller, while wet) , exactly what I didn't want.. Maybe you should do the same. hee hee..obviously I was extremely careful with the painting technique after that. I think the trick is to dampen the ceiling quite a bit, use a thick roller (keep rolling it over and over) make sure its very wet and use a wide scraper thereafter, working in small sections, being careful not to nick the ceiling.(funy thing is when I tried to repair the area with what i had on hand, (joint compound), it was also was able to seep through and make the popcorn more pliable, so it was also making it easiy to remove while wet,..
> But I do agree., New sheetrock would be easier,(I hate popcorn ceilings), best way to paint it is with a sprayer, (using a very good mask and lots of protective plastic covering everything) and that is no party either. Hmmmmm, I wonder if a wet sanding (sponge) block would help? Good luck, I don't envy you, But I do feel for you...


thats what happens when you use the wrong product for the job.Flat oil over unpainted popcorn stucco


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Woodpecker said:


> Atlantics over rocking, means
> Atlantic WBConst. ( the Post reply person)
> and over rocking, means to sheetrock right over the old sheetrocked,
> 'popcorn ceiling' ( which in turn may provide additional insulation) however this may be a problem if you have ceiling fixtures and
> ...


 
When you install an extra layer of S/R ...just use longer screws or 'spacers' to attach the lighting cover plates. Just did an entire kitchen over last week this way (Horse hair plaster - rental apt.) I will post pics when I get over and take some...came out great...


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

I scraped the popcorn off our master bathroom ceiling, and will be doing it in the bedroom as well. It sucks, but I must admit, its easer then painting it! I used a spray bottle with soapy water and a wide putty knife. Its a messy, thankless job while doing it, but all popcorn must goooo!!!!


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

FWIW:

Here are some pics I was able to take of a basement stair wall where we scraped some popcorn off and skim coated it smooth. We just finished this on this past Monday. The Home Owner had hired some goofs to remodel the basement :icon_rolleyes: ..... and we ended up having to finish it up, so they were on a limited budget. 
Normally, we will skim over the whole wall. They opted to just have a minimal area or transition. I leveled and marked the locations on each side of the stairwell identically with a pencil line. Scraped the popcorn off (about a 10" area under the wood strip). Then applied one skim coat. Installed the pre-primed 1/4" wood strip along the transition. Applied a 2nd skim coat and then sanded when dried. Went back and 'touch-up' any little irregularities. Caulked tops and bottoms of the wood strip too.
(Caulking would have come out smoother, but they get cold sitting in the back ofthe truck in winter - and I didn't have the time to warm it up in hot water) It was suggested to the home owner to paint the wood strip and the wall areas under it the same color as the new walls in the basement remodel. 

Left side (Prior to stair rail installation):









Right side:









(FWIW: We had to re-do alot of the framing that the other guys did; They did not properly frame the stairwell wall to leave room for wood skirt boards - I hate that, so we had to bring the sheetrock directly down to the steps)


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> ... (Caulking would have come out smoother, but they get cold sitting in the back ofthe truck in winter - and I didn't have the time to warm it up in hot water)


I ran into the same thing when the weather truned cold and I was trying to use construction adhesive. 

When you go home in the evening take the caulk indoors with you. In the morning put them in a plastic cooler and put that in the truck with you. It will keep them warm for quite a while.

When that didn't work well enough, I drilled a hole in the side of a junk cooler, fastened a plastic light socket to the side and put a 25W light bulb in it. Plugged it in and that would keep the tubes warm all night.

Rip


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## Woodpecker (Feb 7, 2007)

*Got Pic's?*

:whistling2: ......Just kidding....Hey That a good tip...
just ran across this post , I had been lost in.... DIY wonderland, :laughing: 
Did you ever get the pic's...:wheelchair: ... Just couldn't resist,(of the kitchen), LOL:thumbup: .


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## Workaholic (Apr 1, 2007)

Woodpecker said:


> Funny thing is My popcorn ceiling had no problem being removed when I decided to paint it with a thick paint roller filled with paint, it was rolling right off onto the roller (after a second pass with the roller, while wet) , exactly what I didn't want.. Maybe you should do the same. hee hee..obviously I was extremely careful with the painting technique after that. I think the trick is to dampen the ceiling quite a bit, use a thick roller (keep rolling it over and over) make sure its very wet and use a wide scraper thereafter, working in small sections, being careful not to nick the ceiling.(funy thing is when I tried to repair the area with what i had on hand, (joint compound), it was also was able to seep through and make the popcorn more pliable, so it was also making it easiy to remove while wet,..
> But I do agree., New sheetrock would be easier,(I hate popcorn ceilings), best way to paint it is with a sprayer, (using a very good mask and lots of protective plastic covering everything) and that is no party either. Hmmmmm, I wonder if a wet sanding (sponge) block would help? Good luck, I don't envy you, But I do feel for you...


Yes when you are putting latex over an unpainted popcorn ceiling you can not back roll to much, it will do as you said pull the texture off. 
As far as the original post: It clearly sounds like it has been painted before. Either do as Joe suggested, scraping off the top layer so the water can absorb into the texture. Or screw up the new rock. Either one requires a good bit of work.


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## torpainter (Oct 27, 2006)

why anyone would put latex on an unpainted pocorn ceiling is mind-boggling,Flat oil with a split foam roller (needs to be soaked for a minute) takes less material and is relatively easy(compared to latex) Everything needs to be covered and left covered until dry (one to two hours) because little tiny specks will fall


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## silva12 (Apr 11, 2007)

well hi there everyone....new to the forum and happy to be here! I have a question for this thread and did not want to start a whole new one as I know that can be annoying to everyone so here goes..

I have a job like this coming up soon...I was actually planning to just use a wide putty knife and scrape off the popcorn from the ceiling itself...I realize I will have some serious mudding to do obviously..my question is, when I tested it I just used a knife and it came off very easily...is it neccessary to use water at all? I mean if it is VERY old, and just flakes off, is there danger in scraping and then mudding and then painting?

Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any help....


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

silva12 said:


> ...is it neccessary to use water at all? I mean if it is VERY old, and just flakes off, is there danger in scraping and then mudding and then painting?


Hi,

To answer your questions:

If it is coming off easily, there is no need to use water.

Also, no, there is no danger at all in just scraping it, coating with compound, sanding, priming and then painting. 

The picture in this thread that I posted earlier is done precisely with the steps listed because the popcorn was in the same condition as what you described.

Good Luck.


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## silva12 (Apr 11, 2007)

awesome, thanks for the speedy reply friend


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## Zel1 (Mar 21, 2007)

One reason you might want to consider using water, especially if it is old popcorn is asbestos. I dont know what year they stopped using it in popcorn, but better safe then sorry, wet it down and wear a respirator!


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

zel said:


> One reason you might want to consider using water, especially if it is old popcorn is asbestos. I dont know what year they stopped using it in popcorn, but better safe then sorry, wet it down and wear a respirator!


Chances are that it is not Asbestos since, it would have been legally required that this information be made known or disclosed to you prior to working on any property...
Basically....unless it is a complete dump, old building, neglected home, slum, or piece of junk foreclosure.....the chances are slim...


You can check Wikipedia for more info. on Asbestos:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asbestosis

Cautions:

http://www.cdc.gov/elcosh/docs/d0100/d000028/d000028.html

.... and its use in construction (Use was stopped around 1980):

http://www.cpwr.com/hazpdfs/hazasbes.pdf


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## silva12 (Apr 11, 2007)

thanks for the heads up....yeah i actually have already gotten with the person I am working for, and they are pretty sure its straight but have agreed to get a third party to come in and verify before I go in there....


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