# How to seal under baseboard/carpet



## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

I definitely wouldn't be using Quad on that. Not only is it expensive & noxious, but you'll have a hell of a time removing it if you ever need to pull that baseboard.

I'd probably go get the cheapest painters caulk I could find and use a tool to tuck it back into the joint so it can't interfere with the carpet job.


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## Alumifab (Jul 23, 2009)

I do have some dap 230 dynaflex as well, that I am using inside........


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Me personally...
I would leave it alone..


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

You're in tx and cold air is not really a problem. What about the draft that bothers you enough? My reason is that if you caulk the gap (any cheap caulk will do, although cheap latex can mildew-silicon may be better), the air will find its way through something else, such as outlet boxes. In fact, depending on the situation, wide spread leak may feel more comfortable. If the ceiling is removable drop ceiling, inspect the joist bays, etc, for the leaks. From outside, gaps in the siding/sill plate joints can be caulked or foamed.


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## Aggie67 (Dec 20, 2008)

You should be sealing your exterior components, not the interior.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

When rooms are scheduled for carpet, that's generally the way the baseboard is done, and I hate it too. It makes the carpet look nice, but it can be leaky re air as well as bugs.

If you fill that with caulk, you will find the carpet will no longer tuck under it. If you want to do it right, tear off the baseboard, trim the carpet where required, replace the baseboard tight to the floor, and then do another small molding over the baseboard and on top of the carpet.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Is your carpet dirty along the last inch or two against the wall ? If you have air moving through the bottom of the baseboard, it will be clearly visible.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The drywall should have been sealed to the slab before the carpet was laid.

You might be able to get some silicone caulk under the baseboard. But hard to do that it seals, and doesn't prevent the carpet from going back under the baseboard.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1 on all points.

Should it be sealed...yes, but at the drywall layer ideally. 

Is it probably leaking...sure. I would see about sealing all the top plates from the attic as well as sealing exterior wall gaps. 

Is it probably a less than worthwhile investment...probably yes here as well. Besides not being able to tuck your carpet, you are probably going to have it re-stretched as well if you take it all off the tack strips.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I would buy some 1/4 inch diameter foam backer rod which will squeeze down to 1/8 inch thickness quite easily. Stuff that under your baseboard and it'll work as well as caulk and be vastly easier to remove should you ever want to.

You can also get foam backer rod in 1/8 increment size diameters up to 1 inch in diameter. But, buy it in bulk from a building materials wholesaler. Just offer them $5 toward their coffee fund for 100 feet of it, or however much you need. If you buy it in the box stores, you're paying way too much for the little bit they give you in each bag.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Unless your wall is built different.. 
How much air and from where can there be...


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## Alumifab (Jul 23, 2009)

The wall faces outside, was built with lots of shortcuts (as I'm finding), home isn't wrapped, etc.....
It's also my bedroom, so I would like it to be comfortable during the 100* texas summer, so I am looking for all possible leaks to seal.....


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Older building codes did not require anything between the treated 2x4 sill and the concrete foundation or slab. Even if wrap is used, it doesn't usually cover that gap. If you ever have access to that gap, like during residing, you can caulk it.


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