# Drip Cap for Window replacement



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

Does anyone know the correct placement for the drip cap on a window? 
I have seen the drip cap placed directly on top of the window head _before_ the trim is installed and I have also seen the drip cap placed over the top of the head trim. Very confusing as I am about to replace a window.

Thanks.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

why not one on both


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

tomstruble said:


> why not one on both


In deed...
Is one more important than the other? Does code require both? I find it interesting that there isn't a uniform requirement for installing it on both the window and head trim piece. I see some instructions just suggesting adding a drip cap above the window and some only suggest adding to head trim. Here's a link for instructions to do both.
http://www.taunton.com/CMS/uploadedimages/Images/Homebuilding/Audio/guertin/headcasing/


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The one over the trim is mandatory in my book. The point is if any water gets behind the siding above that it can run down the felt over the top flange of your drip cap and drain out from the wall. That’s why flange of the drip cap “must” go behind the felt or it defeats purpose. That’s why you don’t caulk that joint and your siding should be held up ¼” so water can escape.


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

What joint are you referring to, that you do not caulk?


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Between the top of your drip cap and the siding above but you do want a bead of caulk on top of the window trim then put the cap on top of the caulk so water can’t blow under the cap and get to the wall.


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

What about caulking between the window itself and the bottom of the head trim? Is that ok?


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

You can do that too.

1) A bead on top of window and set trim on that.

2) A bead on top of trim then set drip cap on that.

It’s called “Blind Caulking” it’s there you just cant see it.

Then hopefully your trim comes out farther than the window so you can caulk trim to window and trim to siding on the other side.

The Blind Caulking is a extra layer of protection for when (not if) the weather exposed caulking fails.


----------



## eisert (Oct 20, 2009)

I disagree with the above reply. Flashing goes on top of the window. All caulking will fail over time, providing a point of water intrusion. Proper metal flashing will last a lifetime. 

Depending on the type of trim and type of siding, you may also need flashing above the trim.


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

eisert said:


> I disagree with the above reply. Flashing goes on top of the window. All caulking will fail over time, providing a point of water intrusion. Proper metal flashing will last a lifetime.
> 
> Depending on the type of trim and type of siding, you may also need flashing above the trim.


Eisert,
What would you recommend for Hardieplank and Vinyl siding? Hardieplanks's installation guide suggests installing drip cap above trim.


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Red Truck said:


> Eisert,
> What would you recommend for Hardieplank and Vinyl siding? *Hardieplanks's installation guide suggests installing drip cap above trim.[/*quote]
> 
> I’ve sided 100+ homes and trimmed who knows how many windows on the Oregon Coast, land of the sideways rain. I know how to make things “not leak” . If there is no trim then you flash the window. If there is trim you caulk trim to the window and flash the top of the trim.
> ...


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks kwikfishron!! 
I think I have a good hold on the window replacement flashing. 
I have also been hired to fix leaking windows that are covered with vinyl siding. Any thoughts, suggestions? I keep reading that vinyl siding and j-channels are notorious for leaking. Can I apply the same flashing techniques (Grace self adhearing flashing and aluminum drip cap) to windows covered with vinyl siding?? I haven't opened up anything yet so I don't know what I'll find.

Thanks for all the input!


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Red Truck said:
> 
> 
> > Eisert,
> ...


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

If you’ve been hired, you should know.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Since the window itself should be flashed to the house it makes more sense to flash above the trim
I have never seen 2 sets of flashing & that would not look right


----------



## Red Truck (Feb 6, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> If you’ve been hired, you should know.


Sorry Kwikfishron. I didn't mean to step over a line. I'm just starting out getting my feet wet with handyman jobs. Some fellow neighbors/friends have hired me to take a look at some of their small home improvement issues because nobody else will take the time. There are many things I do know, but window and siding is not one of them. This is why I am on the DIY Chatroom and not the Contractor Talk Chatroom.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Since the window itself should be flashed to the house it makes more sense to flash above the trim
> I have never seen 2 sets of flashing & that would not look right


 
your opinion:wink:look at the link the op provided

its all about layering and windows with a tap in flange should have a dripcap on the unit itself no matter what the trim detail is,and then the trim needs one...always


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

What link?


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

http://www.taunton.com/CMS/uploadedimages/Images/Homebuilding/Audio/guertin/headcasing/


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yeah - copper = $$
I could post a bunch of other links showing it with drip cap only over the trim


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’m glad that’s the way he likes to do it but that's not industry standard. 

Unless of course you’re a sales Rep.

Total overkill and expensive.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

In that video, you are relying on the sticky tape/housewrap seal against water. This is probably considered by some as "over-kill" also, but it won't leak: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how...dows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx?nterms=63740
I run my 5/4" metal flashing over the window head and continue over the side jamb tops, additional head trim flashing above. If you stop the window flashing at the window sides, you are directing the water down alongside the jamb/window, relying on caulking between two dissimilar materials- vinyl window/wood jamb trim. 

"Yeah - copper = $$
I could post a bunch of other links showing it with drip cap only over the trim" ----- After 35 years installing windows, you get to know what leaks, what doesn't and prove your point with that site- from self experience - not others'.

Be safe, Gary


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

yea well...if industry standard.. whatever that is,is good enough for you ..well that's fine but your opinions are just that

expensive? for what?some copper or aluminum?that's a pretty ignorant comment considering the investment in windows

look again at the link...see how the one on the aAndersen with the tap in fin [which does NOT constitute a drip cap]is covered with a z shape and the one on the trim is a projecting type which will help deflect water away from the opening

and please with the ''how many years'' or ''how many you installed''that says nothing of any value to anyone

anyone on here that thinks they know everything is a fool


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

55 year old house & 100 year old house
No rot around any of the tops or sides of the windows
And that was well before any flashing was used 
Works for me


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

well so what do you do tell people they don't need one because yours doesn't have any...don't be ridicules leaky windows are one of the most common post on here and if thats your standard reply,well maybe you shouldn't


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

A properly flashed window does not need a drip cap
Would I install one without it, no
But putting 2 on is kinda stupid


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

30lb ASTM Felt embedded into a bead of polyurethane caulk doesn’t leak either. Cost of treatment, about $2 per window.

Cost per window in video, $40-50.

Sticky Tape sticks fine if it’s sunny and 70 outside. 

Try using it when it’s cold or wet out. 

The house needs to be dried in “today” not next Spring.

Sticky Tape came on to the scene about 15 years ago.

How did we ever make windows not leak before that?

The internet world may never know.

There’s always going to be more than one way to achieve the same goal. Is your way better than mine? Of course it is, if that’s what your comfortable with, it works both ways. Which contractor is the better one? That’s easy, the one with no call backs. A lot of contractors say Winter is the slow time of year, living on the Coast it never slows down for me or anyone not afraid of rain gear. Winter brings in sideways rains and the “fix my leak” season has begun, so you get a pretty good idea of what works and what doesn’t. So you do it your way and I’ll do it mine. As long as the end result is the same, “who cares”.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Perhaps you misunderstood me. I was answering Dave that two is way better than one. To rely on sticky tape or caulking is silly. The layers have to be in order. I should have said with my experience and remodeling similar work today that I installed 35 years ago, you see what worked and what didn't. I was showing Dave that if he knew how to seal a window properly, he would use the correct site to prove his point. Not to just say- there are posts that don,t show that.... Some posters have very limited experience, just an addition or two, to justify in their minds they know how to side, roof, trim, frame, etc. With no one to show or tell their errors and explain why or the proper way to complete it, they may feel they learned how. 

I'm still learning, if one doesn't, he is wrong, or brain dead. Sorry you took my 35 years* out of context for the wrong answer*. I really don't see how or where I said "I know everything". I do have difficulty typing what I mean to say, as I'm thinking it. 

Be safe, Gary


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Hey why not just have a custom drip cap made that goes 12" up the wall
Problem solved


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

My rant wasn’t as much pointed at anyone as it was at the video. Not that there was anything wrong with what the video had to say but that in today’s world if someone finds a link showing how to do something then it’s supposed to be believed as Gospel and this “is the way”. I don’t watch many internet video’s (dial up) but the home improvement ones I have, it seems like as much as their showing you how to do something they also have a product to sell.

I still see nothing to be gained by double flashing the head. I look at window trim as a extension of the window itself. The primary purpose head flashing is a place for water to escape and I did that when I flashed the trim and held up the siding a bit. I want to keep water as far away from the nail flanges as I can get. I want that trim caulked (face and blind) on all four sides and become part of the window. I’ve done repairs where the flashing over the window was the problem, water blowing in at the gap of the siding and finding it‘s way in. I also don’t like 5/4 trim, it’s to flush to the window making it difficult to do a good caulking job.

Just my opinion.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

i can agree with all the sticky tape over the side flanges can be a bit over kill,vertical seams are generally not too much of an issue

years ago every Andersen window came with its own flange integrated drip cap,now just the doors do but you can still order one as an option

again both horizontal joints require protection,i prefer to use metal at each one,i really don't see why one does and the other doesn't
i now believe in a layered approach to ''waterproofing'' my walls

over kill?...maybe

sorry if i misinterpreted anyone replies


----------

