# Can I use 14-2 wire on a smoke alarm?



## Tgiambattista (Jan 21, 2017)

We accidentally ran a 14-2 wire instead of 14-3 for our smoke alarms. There is no ground on the alarm anyways. Is this okay?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

IF you are asking if its OK to use the ground wire for the communication wire in a interconnected alarm circuit, No. Need the 3 conductor plus ground


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

Tgiambattista said:


> We accidentally ran a 14-2 wire instead of 14-3 for our smoke alarms. There is no ground on the alarm anyways. Is this okay?


Get smokes with wireless interconnect.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Never thought about it... and never tested it.... but I guess it must be 120 on the communication wire.... or is that fed by the batteries.....???


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Never thought about it... and never tested it.... but I guess it must be 120 on the communication wire.... or is that fed by the batteries.....???



If the power goes out they must still communicate. So DC I would guess. But if the batteries die, they should still communicate. So :vs_worry:

I have a alarm circuit, with any luck, I should be completing within a couple weeks. I am curious too.


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

The third wire is for the interconnect, not a ground.

If you're in the middle of a rennovation and haven't closed walls or ceilings yet, run 14/3.

If everything else is done, you can get hardwired alarms that communicate wirelessly.

they may or may not comply with code if u are required to use hard wired interconnected alarms.

I also recommend using photo-electric alarm on the same floor as kitchen and the area with bedrooms. They're less sensitive to cooking smoke and much more sensitive to smoldering fires. You're much more likely to have a smoldering fire than a flaming fire at night, and it's the smoke that kills.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Never thought about it... and never tested it.... but I guess it must be 120 on the communication wire.... or is that fed by the batteries.....???


You can get them hardwired 120 or battery.

Code is changing and interconnect is fast becoming the standard. Meanwhile older homes were never wired for interconnect. The cheap answer is wireless

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-Ha...larm-with-Battery-Backup-RF-SM-ACDC/100655551


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

typically there's a battery backup and they will communicate if the power is cut but wired with 14/3.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Bob Sanders said:


> *You can get them hardwired 120 or battery.*
> 
> Code is changing and interconnect is fast becoming the standard. Meanwhile older homes were never wired for interconnect. The cheap answer is wireless
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-Ha...larm-with-Battery-Backup-RF-SM-ACDC/100655551


Yes Bob.... But I believe in the states most jurisdictions (at least around me) now require hardwired AND battery (back-up). 

I just wonder if the communication third wire is 120 or battery 9V when you have both..


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## diyorpay (Sep 21, 2010)

And,
I believe code calls for smoke alarms to be with a room with switched lights or similar. Why? Because people get tempted to throw the circuit breaker when they have an alarm condition. They can't 'forget' to turn circuit back on if they need lighting to see at night.
So no alarms on a dedicated circuit.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

diyorpay said:


> And,
> I believe code calls for smoke alarms to be with a room with switched lights or similar. Why? Because people get tempted to throw the circuit breaker when they have an alarm condition. They can't 'forget' to turn circuit back on if they need lighting to see at night.
> So no alarms on a dedicated circuit.



I believe that is regional. Alarm circuits here are dedicated and arc fault protected. And of course hardwired with battery backup.


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## FrodoOne (Mar 4, 2016)

Rejoice!

Please see the current regulations in the Australian State of Queensland, possibly soon to come to a State near you.

https://www.qfes.qld.gov.au/community-safety/smokealarms/Documents/New-Smoke-Alarm-Legislation.pdf

In this 
From 1 January 2017 all smoke alarms in new dwellings (or where a dwelling is substantially renovated) must be photoelectric, not also contain an ionisation sensor, be hardwired to the mains power supply with a secondary power source (i.e. battery) and be interconnected with every other smoke alarm in the dwelling so all activate together. From that date, all replacement smoke alarms must be photoelectric.

From 1 January 2022, all dwellings sold, leased or where a lease is renewed must comply as for new dwellings.

From 1 January 2027, all dwellings must comply as for new dwellings

To be fair, this legislation is largely as a result from the following Coroners Report concerning the deaths of seven persons.
http://www.courts.qld.gov.au/__data...2248/cif-slacks-creek-house-fire-20141128.pdf


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Never thought about it... and never tested it.... but I guess it must be 120 on the communication wire.... or is that fed by the batteries.....???



Finally was able to get back to that alarm circuit I started 6 weeks ago.

Before I installed the last alarm I checked the voltage across the communication wire while someone pushed the alarm test button at another location.

These were all BRK interconnected, 3 smoke, and 2 combi carbon/smoke.
Wired on 14-3 w/G, 15amp ARC Falt breaker.


With breaker ON, 120 volts AC ran across the red communication wire and black while the alarm was sounding. Open across com. and white.

With breaker off, 9 volts DC across com and black and also com and white.


So, looks like the red com wire goes both ways regarding AC/DC, it's a bi-wire :wink2:


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## KPDMinc (Nov 7, 2016)

diyorpay said:


> And,
> I believe code calls for smoke alarms to be with a room with switched lights or similar. Why? Because people get tempted to throw the circuit breaker when they have an alarm condition. They can't 'forget' to turn circuit back on if they need lighting to see at night.
> So no alarms on a dedicated circuit.


I guess when I get an 'alarm' my first instinction isnt to run to the panel and shut off the breaker. I first try to determine why I am getting an alarm, then to silence it, I simply remove it from the wall..


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Yodaman said:


> Finally was able to get back to that alarm circuit I started 6 weeks ago.
> 
> Before I installed the last alarm I checked the voltage across the communication wire while someone pushed the alarm test button at another location.
> 
> ...


THANKS YODA....... Solves my curiosity:smile:


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

KPDMinc said:


> I guess when I get an 'alarm' my first instinction isnt to run to the panel and shut off the breaker. I first try to determine why I am getting an alarm, then to silence it, I simply remove it from the wall..




My beef is when these interconnected alarms go off at 3 AM and scream at 120 decibels throughout the entire house, is finding the culprit! Apparently the triggering unit flashes red while the others remain constant red. As if I can see that little friggin red light at 3 AM! :vs_mad:


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## jreagan (Feb 20, 2015)

Tell me about it. I had one (1 of 13!) that would alarm for about 15 seconds in the middle of the night. By the time I would look at some of them for the flashing red LED, the alarm would stop. I finally found it a few nights later when it did it again (and this time, I kept some hearing protectors on my night stand)

I've since removed that detector and will replace all 13 when I get a chance this Spring.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I have had a few false alarms from dust on the sensor. Most of the time I was able to blow out the dust with compressed air and return it to service.


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