# Basement Toilet Rough In - Help



## atm (Mar 26, 2009)

I am planning to add a bathroom in the basement. There is plumbing rough-in that was put in by the builder. In the attached pictures, the left rough in is for a 36 x 36 shower area and the right rough in is for the toilet. 

The rough-in for the toilet is less than 12 inches from the wall. Assuming the framing and the 1/2 inch drywall (yet to be installed), the distance is approximately 10 inches to the center of the rough in pipe. in addition, if you look at the picture, you will also notice that the toilet rough in is not quite centered - there is more space between the toilet and the right wall framing than the toilet and the shower area.

So far, my options are:
1. use a 2 inch offset flange and get approximately 12" distance from the wall. This would fit a regular toilet bowl. OR use a 10" rough in toilet, however, the toilet will be a bit off centered. I was planning to cover up the space with a cabinet decor or some decorative component to make it not look off centered. Are there any issues to using an offset flange?

2. Break the concrete and reposition the pipe. This would cost $$ $$ for a plumber to do it. Is this something I can tackle as a DIY? How difficult is this?

Do you have any recommendation on what I should do? Please advice if you have other alternative to finish this basement bathroom.

Thank you


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## al's sewer (Apr 7, 2009)

atm said:


> I am planning to add a bathroom in the basement. There is plumbing rough-in that was put in by the builder. In the attached pictures, the left rough in is for a 36 x 36 shower area and the right rough in is for the toilet.
> 
> The rough-in for the toilet is less than 12 inches from the wall. Assuming the framing and the 1/2 inch drywall (yet to be installed), the distance is approximately 10 inches to the center of the rough in pipe. in addition, if you look at the picture, you will also notice that the toilet rough in is not quite centered - there is more space between the toilet and the right wall framing than the toilet and the shower area.
> 
> ...


 I would use a 10 inch rough toilet as I do not like using offset flanges. as long as you have 16 inches from the outside edge of of the shower wall your toilet will work fine. the reason you have more space on the right wall is because they allowed for a sink to go in there. If you don't have a the 16 inches needed between the toilet and shower wall you might consider a 32 0r 34 inch shower to give you a couple extra inches. from the pics it looks like you have plenty of room for a wall hung or pedestal sink or even a small vanity sink on the right side of the toilet. again you would need about 16 inches to center of toilet pipe to the outside edge of sink.


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## Gallagher999 (May 30, 2009)

I would break up the concrete and reposition (cut off the old pipe and glue and reattach/fit the new pipe) to your liking. Its real easy and you can rent the hammer jack with chisel from a place like Home Depot for about $40-$50 a day. The work will take you about 1 hour to compete. I am not sure if you are getting a home permit but if you are, you will need to leave the hole open (do not cover up via concrete the repositioned pipe) until its inspected. 

I have done this work before and it is not difficult. On a scale of 1 thru 10. (10 meaning extremely complicated) I would rate this a 2. You will save yourself lots of $$$.


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## Buckley (Jun 6, 2009)

I may be a little too late, but...
You have 2x4 framing along the back wall. The plumber may have assumed that the wall would be furred out just proud of the plumbing along the wall. It looks like 2" furring (instead of 2x4 studs) might get you as much as an 1 1/2" additional floor space. Is this possible??? This may get you closer to using a 12" rough-in toilet. This along with an offset flange would allow you to position the toilet farther away from the shower as well.
Best of luck.


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