# fascia board



## awdblazer (Dec 30, 2010)

what kind of wood do you use for fascia boards, pressure treated or regular wood?


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## justincase123 (Oct 24, 2010)

It depends if you will want to wrap them with aluminum coil in the future. It says on the outside of the box on the aluminum coil not to use on treated wood, I guess some sort of corrosion issues. I went thru this recently as I wanted to use treated fascia and then wrap with aluminum 'cause I figured that would surely last. But because of the warning on the aluminum coil box I just went with untreated wood and wrapped them with the aluminum coil.


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

I've never seen PT in the right dimensions for Fascia. But, if you are worried about rot up there(??) you could use PVC board.


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## bernieb (Mar 20, 2010)

This past summer we did a remodel job that involved what your into, and this aluim. was on treated facia board for 15 years and no corroision on aluim that I noticed. I say go with the treated.......


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

they have that warning for a reason,don't mix treated lumber with aluminum :no:


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## bernieb (Mar 20, 2010)

Good job Tom Struble,and thanks for your pictures. The fascia work that I seen was inserted into undersill at the top, and was set in gummy type caulk along its face.


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## IHICH2011 (Jan 7, 2011)

Great Pics...I have never seen it that bad.

The normal sub fascia board is your standard white wood #2 pine or SPF in either 1x4,1x6 or 2x4 & 2x6. Since this board is covered w/ a fascia wrap in either Aluminum or Steel..moisture should not be a problem.

Cedar and Redwood used to be the norm. 

I hope this helped. :thumbup:

IHICH2011


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## AgentW (Dec 1, 2010)

For our house we have used a white fypon for the fascia. The sub-fascia is just your standard wood.

The fypon looks nice, but expands and contracts quite a bit so you need to make sure you have angle joints where long sections meet up, otherwise you'll see some larger gaps during the winter.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

moisture is always a problem:yes:remember you put your gutter on the fascia,which produces hole where moisture can enter

i understand your point that it ''shouldn't'' be a problem tho


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

If you're using a subfacia, why not rip some exterior plywood instead of 1x? would be cheaper


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## IHICH2011 (Jan 7, 2011)

mrgins said:


> If you're using a subfacia, why not rip some exterior plywood instead of 1x? would be cheaper


Yep..I have seen this done before and would be cheaper, but, problems come in to play with warping and twisting as the tails of the trusses are 24" on center. Unless you had access to thicker than the normal plywood such as 3/4" 7-8 ply. Then the cost would go up. After you rip plywood it has a tendency to twist due to the lamination of the plywood causing a problem almost from the begininng. 

The normal 2x4 & 2x6 is used because it is less expensive than 1x #2 pine material and keeps a nice true plane for applying your finish material to.

Steel woodgrain or ribbed embossed fascia is used by most professional contrators because it lays flat and reduces the oil canning affect you usually see with aluminum fascia.

Solid PVC, Fiber Cement and Composite trims are also used, but, are very expensive.

IHICH2011 - I hope This Helped.:thumbup:


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