# Crawl Space Help: Tricky Situation



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

How far down does the crawlspace stem wall go down into the earth?


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## kevin2martin (Jan 28, 2014)

Looks to be about 3' at the front. Can't speak for what that may actually be at the back, if it's less than that at all.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

My 4 boys help lower the grade in my crawlspace from 4" under joists to meet minimum code, lol; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par203.htm?bu2=undefined

Gary


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Gary in WA said:


> My 4 boys help lower the grade in my crawlspace from 4" under joists to meet minimum code, lol; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_par203.htm?bu2=undefined
> 
> Gary



I am sure they were loving Dad that day.


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## Queef (Jan 26, 2014)

I have a similar type rental home that doesn't have enough crawl space to get under to do any insulating. What do you do? Pick and shovel underneath there? Lol


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Excavate down to code and insulate the walls. Covert to conditioned is the way I would go.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

We had fun under there! Short-handled shovels and bars, not much room for a pick.... have raised flower beds around the yard...lol. If you condition it, check radon/termites first; http://energy.cr.usgs.gov/radon/rnus.html

http://termites101.org/termite-basics/termites-by-region

Code requirements; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...cxhZUUbjb19gdOLGMmhxgpg&bvm=bv.59026428,d.cGU

Gary


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## Arlo (Jan 17, 2008)

Kevin, my first house was a 1903 frame house in Richmond in the same situation. My house was built to be a temporary workers cottage but it stands 100 years later. Mine started out a gut job so it was naïve not to pull up the heart pine floors, which had no subfloor, and excavate and insulate. The only thing I can see to do is crawl under and dig. Like the old movie "The Great Escape." It might be good to hire a couple of 15 year olds to dig it this summer and pay them well!


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## kevin2martin (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks for the info and suggestions everyone.

Arlo, did you end up insulating between floor joists or encapsulating the crawl space?


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## Arlo (Jan 17, 2008)

No. This was in the early 80's and there was no internet to encourage me. My fear with that particular house would have been to put insulation too close to the ground, have it get wet, and rot the floor joists. The only time it was really cold is that we had a winter that got down to about 5 degrees and I did end up crawling around and insulating pipes as far as I could crawl. My elderly neighbor came by and pointed out that I insulated the gas pipe too. :laughing: Did I mention it was my first house?


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## kevin2martin (Jan 28, 2014)

Gary in WA said:


> We had fun under there! Short-handled shovels and bars, not much room for a pick.... have raised flower beds around the yard...lol. If you condition it, check radon/termites first; http://energy.cr.usgs.gov/radon/rnus.html
> 
> http://termites101.org/termite-basics/termites-by-region
> 
> ...


Gary, radon I inderstand, but what is the impact with termites. Wouldn't a vapor barrier in the crawl space significantly reduce any activity?

I know we have termite activity but we have done a lot of staying and removing wood to ground contact so I think we're in pretty good shape.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If you condition the crawl, the joists are inside the warm wall and therefore do not require insulating.

There should always be a continuous and sealed vapor barrier on the floor and sealed at the walls and pillars.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You need to leave the top 2" or so of concrete wall open/uninsulated for annual termite inspection. If you cover the walls and the ground, you won't be able to see their tunnels of mud to the wood joists, they build right through foam board- easy diggin'. lol. Don't forget if conditioning it, you require house air to circulate with an exhaust outlet, as per link I gave last.

Gary


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