# Refrigerator space widening needed. Suggestions?



## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

greentrees said:


> If I buy something similar in size, how can I widen the space?


Not easily, that's for sure.

You could gain a couple inches by making the wall on the right thinner - turn the 2x4's flat.

Personally, I would look for a fridge that's an inch or 2 narrower.

The first thing I would do, though, is pull the fridge forward a couple inches away, so that you can get air flow across the coils, so that the fridge can cool properly. You may need to also clean the condenser coils (the small tubes that run back and forth either under the fridge, or on the back). The fridge cools the inside by generating heat outside; if it can't dissipate the heat outside, it can't cool the inside.

If the freezer is staying cold, but the refrigerator isn't, then either the air isn't able to flow from the freezer to the fridge, the fan that's supposed to move the air from the freezer to the fridge is not working right, or the thermostat isn't working.


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

*Exactly* how much width do you have in that spot ?
Most fridges will fit in a 36 inch spot. The carpenters were likely shooting for 36" width when they did your kitchen, but may have missed by a little. I still have my spreadsheet from when I bought my last fridge. A bunch were 35.75" One was 36.0 wide. a couple were 35.62 wide. The insulation in the fridge walls can sometimes bow the fridge walls outward a little. But I don't really think you need to modify the width of your spot if you have 36.0"

Your height however, is a problem.
Most fridges in that nominal size are about 70" tall. Frequently, you are supposed to have 2" from back of fridge to wall (which you are not currently providing) and 2" space to underside of upper cabinets (see the manual for fridge you are considering).
Those cabinets can either be shortened or removed entirely (they are pretty much useless anyways). Easier to shorten if you can take them down. But the alteration will likely be visible, unless maybe you take them to a cabinetmaker for alteration.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

You should chop the upper cabinet. Yours are painted, so it should be fairly facile.


----------



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

[/QUOTE]


SPS-1 said:


> *Exactly* how much width do you have in that spot ?
> Most fridges will fit in a 36 inch spot. The carpenters were likely shooting for 36" width when they did your kitchen, but may have missed by a little. I still have my spreadsheet from when I bought my last fridge. A bunch were 35.75" One was 36.0 wide. a couple were 35.62 wide. The insulation in the fridge walls can sometimes bow the fridge walls outward a little. But I don't really think you need to modify the width of your spot if you have 36.0"
> 
> Your height however, is a problem.
> ...


Yes, it looks like it was targeted for 36 inches or at least modified for that size. The cabinets are original and the counter was put in afterwards sometime. The house was built in 1984. The existing refrigerator looks about 35 7/8" at the top. The new refrigerators are about that size. I will probably remove the cabinet or shorten it. I just have wine glasses up there and maybe a vase.




huesmann said:


> You should chop the upper cabinet. Yours are painted, so it should be fairly facile.


That video is pretty nice. I wish I could work that fast. Using a table saw is a great idea. I'll have to give it a try. If I fail I'll just throw the cabinet out.


----------



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

Another fix would be to possibly replace the sheetrock on the right side with thinner sheetrock. Going from 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch. Or if there is even thinner material as an alternative other then sheetrock. I could post something under the sheetrock forum and see what ideas there are.

I would think refrigerator space widening is common, so probably a lot of ideas on this forum.


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

greentrees said:


> That video is pretty nice. I wish I could work that fast.


Hah, you mean aside from the fact that the video is sped up?


----------



## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

greentrees said:


> h. Or if there is even thinner material as an alternative other then sheetrock.


Good idea. Prefinished paneling is about 1/4”. Finishing the front edge is going to be tricky.


----------



## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

If you're convinced you want to make a larger space;

Reframe the left wall of the cupboard using 2X4 (or 2 X 3) studs "on the flat"...

Or, remove the left wall and the two pantry doors - put the new wall where you want it and convert to a single door, hinged on the right side, for the pantry. The soffit will have to be reframed and rocked as well... but that can give you quite a few inches.

If you're only looking for 1/4" you can use suggestions from others ^^ above ^^ by changing to thinner sheetrock or finished panels. Personally, I can't see 1/4" as any gain worth the effort.


----------



## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

I suggest removing the cabinet above and pulling the fridge out a couple inches, as a first step, to see if that solves the operational problem. It may just be due to inadequate air circulation. 

If you decide to replace the fridge, the simplest solution is to buy a replacement that's not as wide. There are quite a few models that are 35.5" wide, even some 32" wide side-by-side models.


----------



## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

But, before you do anything, most fridges need two inches behind. Try pulling yours out as others have already suggested. Usually you only need about 1/2 inch at the top - but that can vary by model...

Meanwhile, have you cleaned the coils/evaporator pan? You might want to look at the installation manual and verify you have the required clearances and learn how to clean it. The manual (read it) will also tell you some basic troubleshooting and care/use tips.


----------



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

HotRodx10 said:


> I suggest removing the cabinet above and pulling the fridge out a couple inches, as a first step, to see if that solves the operational problem. It may just be due to inadequate air circulation.
> 
> If you decide to replace the fridge, the simplest solution is to buy a replacement that's not as wide. There are quite a few models that are 35.5" wide, even some 32" wide side-by-side models.


I can remove the cabinet on top. They don't need to be there. Or I can shorten them if needed. 
One problem is the refrigerator is jammed into the space. I will empty it today and see if my wife and I can pull it out. I can then check the back if there is dust balls everywhere. I assume there is, which is probably causing some of the problem. 

I was looking to get a french door style with ice/water and a third drawer. I'll see if I can find one that is 35.5 but most I saw were 36 (or 35.8). I might have to look for another style. There was one that was 30 inches I think, but that is probably too small. 




Domo said:


> But, before you do anything, most fridges need two inches behind. Try pulling yours out as others have already suggested. Usually you only need about 1/2 inch at the top - but that can vary by model...
> 
> Meanwhile, have you cleaned the coils/evaporator pan? You might want to look at the installation manual and verify you have the required clearances and learn how to clean it. The manual (read it) will also tell you some basic troubleshooting and care/use tips.


I'll check the coils once I can pull out the refrigerator. I tried a board behind the refrigerator for leverage but only got the refrigerator to move out about 1/8 inch. I was worried I was going to punch a hole in the sheetrock. I might have to use some oil or something. 

I did get a quote to change the drywall from 1/2 inch to 1/4 inch. About $500. I can probably do a panel cheaper and easier. But might just look for a thinner refrigerator. 

It got really hot here last week. The kitchen was 100 degrees. That probably iced up the fridge. I did deice the coils on the freezer and refrigerator side. There is probably something else that iced up. Turning off the refrigerator for 8 hours might help possibly.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The problem is usually just the corner bead and the texture on the wall. 
If the drywall was removed just to fit the fridge and there was a piece of molding on the wall beside and above the fridge no one would ever know.


----------



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I got the refrigerator out. It was jammed in there pretty good. I almost gave up. I had a 2x4 in the back and almost went through the drywall trying to pry it out. I put a 2x4 under the fringe and lifted. I heard a big pop and it seems to loosen it. 
There was dust in the vent in the back. That was probably causing the restricted airflow along with less then an inch clearance in the back. I cleaned the dust out. I wasn't sure how to clean the sub-condenser. It seem ok through. The compressor was still hot. I'll plug it in later and see if the fan is working. I assume it should kick in right away.

I'll plug it in either in the middle of the night or early tomorrow morning. I have food sitting in soft insulated bags. Not sure if it will last until the morning.


----------



## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

We had the same problem when our side-by-side died. We considered the French door style; available width was ok but height was a problem. Wanting to avoid turning a relatively simple appliance replacement into a kitchen reno, we simply narrow down our search to fridges that fit the space. Every manufacturer publishes spacing dimensions.


----------



## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

Yep, with the coils where they are, you definitely need to keep it a couple inches away from the back wall, so the heat can go up and out.


----------



## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

You could put a couple of 2" blocks on the floor, against the back wall, with a couple of dabs of PL Premium to ensure fridge does not get pushed further than it should.


----------



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

lenaitch said:


> We had the same problem when our side-by-side died. We considered the French door style; available width was ok but height was a problem. Wanting to avoid turning a relatively simple appliance replacement into a kitchen reno, we simply narrow down our search to fridges that fit the space. Every manufacturer publishes spacing dimensions.


I can find the dimensions of new refrigerators, but for some reason cannot find the dimensions of my current refrigerator in any document. I can measure it, but wanted to see what the specification was in the manual. I couldn't find the information in the service manual or user guide. I have a Samsung RS2534WW. When I measure it the width seems like 35 3/4 inch. The space I have measures 36 inches, but I think the refrigerator bulges where the counter hits it.



SPS-1 said:


> You could put a couple of 2" blocks on the floor, against the back wall, with a couple of dabs of PL Premium to ensure fridge does not get pushed further than it should.


That's a good idea. I think over time the refrigerator kept getting pushed back from closing the door (the previous owner). And because of the tight fit there was no thought of pulling it back out. I might just cut some wood the width of the refrigerator and put it on the ground. That would stop it from being pushed back.

I think the spec was 1 inch in the back so that might have been ok but the top was restricted by the cabinet, so that was probably the main issue. Along with all the dust on the vent entry. I removed the cabinet so I can get any height refrigerator now.


----------



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I think the countertop is a laminate. If so the edge is probably glued on. When I look below there is wood and about a 1/4 inch edge. Do you think if I use a heat gun the edge can be popped off?


----------



## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

greentrees said:


> I think the countertop is a laminate. If so the edge is probably glued on. When I look below there is wood and about a 1/4 inch edge. Do you think if I use a heat gun the edge can be popped off?


Typically, those are glued on with contact cement, rather than hot glue, so a heat gun probably won't help.

The heat gun could damage the laminate, too. If it's applied with hot glue, a clothes iron on medium heat would loosen it, without the risk of damaging it.


----------



## diyorpay (Sep 21, 2010)

If refrig still doesn't cool properly and you seek a replacement, consider a counter depth unit. It is smaller however. Regardless, watch for swing of doors with that side wall.
If upper cabinet doesn't give enough air flow, remove it, take off doors, trim bottom of cabinet, remount doors but higher, close to ceiling.
A counterdepth unit away from back wall might give you enough air flow on left side rear without modifying cabinet.






Download Samsung RS2534WW Service Manual | ManualsLib







www.manualslib.com


----------



## YaterSpoon (Dec 1, 2016)

I would just replace with another 36" and keep it an inch off the back wall. Done.


----------

