# Painting cabinet's - looking awful



## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

All sorts of better choices, but the problem is also
High gloss- which you already found out, and technique.
Also , priming with a good bonding primer is highly recommended by us who do this for a living. That initial bond is so important-
But other suggestions-
Benj Moore aura Satin, Advance Satin
Sh Williams - Proclassic WB semi
Muralo Satin or Semi
Ace's ( Insulx) Cabinet Coat
There are others- 
Don't skimp on a cab paint. A little goes a long way and performance and durability are everything.

Many of these work best with a very small amount of water and/or extender - and all have a bit of a learning curve.
Use a high quality brush and finish in long even strokes. Don't overwork.

Painting cabs well is not easy.


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## somecallmemike (Dec 26, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> All sorts of better choices, but the problem is also
> High gloss- which you already found out, and technique.
> Also , priming with a good bonding primer is highly recommended by us who do this for a living. That initial bond is so important-
> But other suggestions-
> ...


Thanks for the suggestions. One of the problems I am having is that I put a molding on top of the door to dress it up (doors were flat to start with). 

Here is a before and after: 















.

Now that I am painting it, I am finding that my brush has to go against the grain of the door in many places. Is there a good technique for painting around that molding without making it look awful? I think what you're saying is a combination of better paint, a satin sheen, and a proper coat of bonding primer will make the work considerably easier.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

The bonding primer doesn't make the top coat any easier to apply, but it does make it more likely to stick well and not scratch off easily. 
It's hard to show brush technique that I have worked on for years in a couple of sentences. But a good product that handles well helps alot.
Of that bunch, i find Muralo to be as good as it gets for handleability and laying out ( meaning it self levels as it dries) .
But all of them will be better than DB, a cheap contribution to box store paints from Sherwin Williams.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Just looked at your pics.
Do the raised moulding first, try and cut it clean, not leaving much on the flat part. Then do the inside, with the grain.
Then to the outside, starting with top and bottom. you will have to go cross grain at the top and bottom, then finish with the side area . It will take 1 prime 2 finish , at least. 
Do outside edges very first, and wipe any that comes around to front/back.
Use the quick dry times by doing each step and let set- do another door or two same and then go back. If you've done it cleanly it will come out smooth.


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## somecallmemike (Dec 26, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> The bonding primer doesn't make the top coat any easier to apply, but it does make it more likely to stick well and not scratch off easily.
> It's hard to show brush technique that I have worked on for years in a couple of sentences. But a good product that handles well helps alot.
> Of that bunch, i find Muralo to be as good as it gets for handleability and laying out ( meaning it self levels as it dries) .
> But all of them will be better than DB, a cheap contribution to box store paints from Sherwin Williams.


Brushjocky, I really appreciate the advice. Would it make sense to use a spray paint (primer or finish) instead to get the consistency I am looking for?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Spray can? Not for finish, maybe for primer. But that would take you through a few cans. And if you're doing the frames too that would mean a bunch of masking- spray goes everywhere. 
I don't recommend using an actual sprayer on cabs to a novice.
More to that than it looks.


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## somecallmemike (Dec 26, 2011)

Brushjockey said:


> Spray can? Not for finish, maybe for primer. But that would take you through a few cans. And if you're doing the frames too that would mean a bunch of masking- spray goes everywhere.
> I don't recommend using an actual sprayer on cabs to a novice.
> More to that than it looks.


Agreed, I just read a few other posts on this subject and it seems spray painting is even more difficult to get right than brushing. I'm going to get the heat gun out and strip that door, then try again with a coat of primer and two coats of B.M. Aura Satin.


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

If you aren't already, you might find it better to remove the doors and paint them laying flat. 


I used BM satin Impervo on some cabinet doors and trim and it worked really well.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

with a coat of primer and two coats of B.M. Aura Satin. 

remove the doors and paint them laying flat. 


2 good ideas
also a good 2 1/2 in brush


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## MNDIY (Sep 20, 2012)

I am currently using Sherman Williams ProClassic Semi in Extra White. I have found that the lighter the pressure on the brush, the better. A little of this paint goes a long way. I just put a little on the brush and lightly put it on. 

Another thing that works well is to use a self-leveling deck paint.


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