# How do you install laminate flooring under door casings?



## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

There are different ways. You can place the plank further down the line, and then just move it back under the door moulding. Not sure if this is what you are asking about. 

Depending on your trim, you can remove it and put back.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

What do you mean by "further down the line?"

I'm just trying to figure out how to get it to all click together when it appears impossible since you have to slide it under the casing. Such as the when a seam is under the door casing, leading into a closet. Or when your last row needs to run under a door casing. How do you do it? Is the only option to cut and paste (cut the locking part of the tongue and glue the pieces together)? Or is there a better way?


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## liquidvw (Jun 8, 2009)

I just installed my first floor last week. I had the same issue. I need to get the floor under the door jam. I took a piece of wood and put it next to the jam. Then I used an under cut saw to make a cut in the jam. The wood slid right under the jam and looks great. 

Here is a pic of it.


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

Player said:


> What do you mean by "further down the line?"
> 
> I'm just trying to figure out how to get it to all click together when it appears impossible since you have to slide it under the casing. Such as the when a seam is under the door casing, leading into a closet. Or when your last row needs to run under a door casing. How do you do it? Is the only option to cut and paste (cut the locking part of the tongue and glue the pieces together)? Or is there a better way?


I may be thinking of something else other than what you need. 

Look at the picture above, is this the direction of the floor you have? Or to you have it along the door, basically parallell to the door when door is closed. 

The above poster made a transition board. He needed that to make the floor in the other room from the beginning. What you can do is, make a double tongue on a table saw, glue that into the groove, and you can reverse the flooring to go into two directions past the door, making one continuous floor. 

Hard to explain without seeing it. I just don't take pics when doing this stuff.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Yeah, it's running parallel to the door/hallway, as opposed to the picture above. I understand to undercut the casing. I could set it up to do exactly as you described with the double tongue (or just click it into place the opposite way...that would work also), but what about when I reach the other side of the hallway and can't do that process on those doorways? On those doorways I would need to click it into place but can't because it needs to slide under the casing (thus preventing it from rotating at all to achieve the "click"). Even if I slide it under the casing and try to glue the previous piece/row to it, I'm not sure how I could do that since there won't be enough room to slide the piece of laminate that is under the casing forward and out of the way of the tongue from the previous piece so that I can slide the tongue into the groove. Does that make sense?


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

Player said:


> Yeah, it's running parallel to the door/hallway, as opposed to the picture above. I understand to undercut the casing. I could set it up to do exactly as you described with the double tongue (or just click it into place the opposite way...that would work also), but what about when I reach the other side of the hallway and can't do that process on those doorways? On those doorways I would need to click it into place but can't because it needs to slide under the casing (thus preventing it from rotating at all to achieve the "click"). Even if I slide it under the casing and try to glue the previous piece/row to it, I'm not sure how I could do that since there won't be enough room to slide the piece of laminate that is under the casing forward and out of the way of the tongue from the previous piece so that I can slide the tongue into the groove. Does that make sense?


Got you now. 

Couple of ways here. 
You can cut out the peice with a coping saw, but you won't be able to get it really tight around the casing as you still need to roate it. I have seen people use color matching caulk to fill in the gaps by the casing. I don't like it, looks like an afterthought

My personal preference would be to trim the groove bottom edge so that there is no twisting required (might have to do this on the tongue too, just shave it basically). Put some PL Premium into the grove and use a peice of scrap wood against the plank and hammer it in flat on the floor. Don't hammer against the plank, you will damage it. Once the PL sets, trust me that seam will never come apart even if you wanted it to.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks, Slickgt1! So you're saying to trim the bottom of the groove (and possible the tongue) to allow it to slide under the casing, tightly, then tap it back into place on the tongue and groove that is remaining? Or were you saying to carefully tap it down from the top so that it is flat/flush?

Is PL Premium better than Titebond wood glue that I've seen others recommend? Will it wipe off of the surface without a problem (when first applied)? And would you use this between seems in a kitchen, or is that overkill on a 12mm, quality laminate?


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

Player said:


> Thanks, Slickgt1! So you're saying to trim the bottom of the groove (and possible the tongue) to allow it to slide under the casing, tightly, then tap it back into place on the tongue and groove that is remaining?
> 
> -Correct, this is the way.
> 
> ...


I prefer PL Premium on most jobs like this. I only use wood glue when gluing solid, natural wood peices that have good surface contact. Here you don't know where the glue will work in the groove. PL will be thicker, and it will bond to anything. 

If you need to wipe down PL, use a rag with Paint Thinner. Don't let the excess dry, it will stick to your finish on the floor, hard core. Just don't over-do-it when using it, put the PL stricktly in the groove. 

I wouldn't use it to seal gaps / seems either. Don't use it on areas that you don't need to. You are still working with a product that will expand and contract with climate / humidity shifts. The floor needs to be able to shift around. If something spills in the kitchen, just wipe it off, and you will be fine. I've seen tests of laminate flooring performing better and more resilient than hardwood.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks! The supplier is recommending Titebond, but I'm inclined to use PL Premium as I'm not actually gluing wood.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

How would the track for a sliding closet door be installed over laminate? The track really only prevents the sliding door from floating (or being pushed) in or out. There is no weight on it. Can I screw that into laminate, or do I need to do something else there?


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## liquidvw (Jun 8, 2009)

I would predrill the floor. Then screw down into the sub floor.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Wouldn't that prohibit the floating aspect of the floating floor? So that it couldn't adjust to changes in temperature and humidity?


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## liquidvw (Jun 8, 2009)

good point. :thumbsup:

But if the bracket moves the doors may not work correctly.


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## btme (Jul 7, 2010)

Player said:


> Thanks! The supplier is recommending Titebond, but I'm inclined to use PL Premium as I'm not actually gluing wood.


Titebond II is the one I would use... Titebond II Premium (which resist moisture and is $3.50 for an 8 oz bottle at Home Depot) is more than enough... I used it before and it is plenty strong!

Laminate is WOOD... and that will do the job! 

Make sure you plane/shave off equally the Groove and the Tongue; and you should have no problems.

Also make sure every thing in that row fits properly before applying the glue!
Any oozing /excess glue from the seam can be easily removed-cleaned with a moist rag !


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks!

What about Titebond III - Waterproof? It's still water cleanup but resists issues with water once cured.

How long do you recommend letting it dry before walking on it?


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## btme (Jul 7, 2010)

Player said:


> Thanks!
> 
> What about Titebond III - Waterproof? It's still water cleanup but resists issues with water once cured.
> 
> How long do you recommend letting it dry before walking on it?


Titebond II Premium is supposed to be for indoor/outdoor (which means water resistant... not to be used under water though!)
It cures in 24hrs ... I walked on it in 4hrs to test it.

Don't worry about waterproof glue... because if there is water for an extended period of time on any laminate, it will find a way to get underneath from other places than the glued plank... No matter what you were told about laminates being waterproof, it is simply not true, and some damage will occur!


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks for your advice, I appreciate it!

I already have some Titebond III. Do you think it will work for me, for this project?

btw, do you run laminate under the stove & dishwasher? Will that hurt anything?

I also have a sliding closet door that has a guide currently screwed into the floor (to keep the doors from swinging). Do you think it would be ok to secure this guide to the laminate?


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## btme (Jul 7, 2010)

I already have some Titebond III. Do you think it will work for me, for this project?

*It should be OK.*
*III gives you 10 minutes to work with it, whereas I and II give only 5 minutes. before it starts bonding.*



> _"*Why should I use Titebond® III instead of Titebond® II or the other Titebond Wood Glues?*
> While all Titebond® products provide superior performance, Titebond® III is especially useful for outdoor applications in cooler temperatures or when concern for substantial moisture calls for the use of a Type I glue. For interior applications, the longer working time of Titebond® III provides woodworkers the necessary latitude to ensure that substrates are precisely aligned before being bonded. Overall, Titebond® III combines superior strength, Type I water-resistance, long open time and low chalk temperature into one easy-to-use formulation."_


btw, do you run laminate under the stove & dishwasher? Will that hurt anything?

*Under the stove maybe.
I wouldn't put it under the dishwasher... 
I decided not to use laminates in the kitchen and bathrooms... too risky with unnoticed water spillage. *
*(most Manufacturers recommend using glue to seal all plank joints in high water risk areas such as Kitchen, bathrooms...)*

I also have a sliding closet door that has a guide currently screwed into the floor (to keep the doors from swinging). Do you think it would be ok to secure this guide to the laminate?

*I wouldn't secure anything to the laminate.... you will not see laminate move, but it does all the time with changes in seasons and humidity/temperature... it floats actually with everything on it.*


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

The supplier said not to seal the planks in the kitchen. Weird. He said "you should not glue the seams together unless going through a doorway or against a wall where the length fill piece is less than half a board."

If you don't run it under the dishwasher, how do you get the dishwasher out when need be (since it will be blocking the feet)? Just try to lift the dishwasher while screwing the feet shorter, then pull it out and do the same with the back feet?


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## btme (Jul 7, 2010)

The supplier said not to seal the planks in the kitchen. Weird. He said "you should not glue the seams together unless going through a doorway or against a wall where the length fill piece is less than half a board."

*Major big Manufacturers recommend sealing/gluing when used in an area susceptible to have water spills... Go to their Websites and search for installing in Bathroom and Kitchen.
Does your laminate come with an installation manual... usually one is included in every box!
The last person I would take advice from are the "middle men"/Suppliers... *

If you don't run it under the dishwasher, how do you get the dishwasher out when need be (since it will be blocking the feet)?

*The Feet usually have a SCREW WHEEL to raise and lower the appliance just like a refrigerator or stove.*

Just try to lift the dishwasher while screwing the feet shorter, then pull it out and do the same with the back feet?

*YES*.*.. sometimes it is necessary to wiggle it in and out... sometimes the wiring/hoses can get in the way and get damaged doing so... but that is another story.*..


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

I'd just put the flooring under the dish washer. If that flooring gets messed up for some reason, no big deal, you won't see it, and won't be that hard to replace if needed. Don't glue it though.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

You wouldn't glue the seams? why?


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## btme (Jul 7, 2010)

slickgt1 said:


> I'd just put the flooring under the dish washer. If that flooring gets messed up for some reason, no big deal,* you won't see it,* and won't be that hard to replace if needed. Don't glue it though.


You won't see it for sure when it starts getting wet... but it will let everyone know soon after... when it starts warping and buckling ... and the dishwasher looks lopsided.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

If you were to glue the seams and caulk around the edge, wouldn't that help in preventing water damage?


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## mr_handy (Jul 9, 2010)

If one glues laminate it is not able to float, expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity as intended and if it does happen to get damaged makes replacing the damaged pieces very difficult. 


Indianapolis Handyman


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## btme (Jul 7, 2010)

If one glues laminate it is not able to float, expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity as intended.

*Where do you get that totally false information?*
*Laminate and all wood expand and contract glued, unglued, nailed or otherwise.*



and if it does happen to get damaged makes replacing the damaged pieces very difficult. 

*No comments here... since you don't know the elementary (basic) law of chemistry of wood/laminate*


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

I'm referring to sealing seams, not gluing it to the subfloor. Even the right caulking will still allow it to move (for sealing around the edges). Or sealing underneith the baseboard.


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## TxMojo (May 31, 2010)

not sure if it's the same sort of system, but on the tongue side (or groove really) cut/shave locking "lip"/bump with a box cutter or similar device. Now you still have the tongue and groove, minus the bend/lock in aspect. Undercut the casing with undercutting saw so the plank can slide under it. Put some adhesive/glue on tongue, float in...done. Worked perfect for me, great result, with least pain (I thought)...but again not sure if we're talking apples/apples as far as flooring system.


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

TxMojo, that's exactly what my original question was asking. I'm guessing that when installing the flooring parallel to the door and only going halfway into the doorway (because of carpet in the next room), that you have to undercut the door a little further in order to slide the piece back away from the previous row, and allowing room to slide the two together (last row in a hallway). And then hopefully that gap is covered by the transition. Does that make sense?

btw, what branch of the military are you in?


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

btme said:


> You won't see it for sure when it starts getting wet... but it will let everyone know soon after... when it starts warping and buckling ... and the dishwasher looks lopsided.


Note the statement, IF, it gets wet. If your dishwasher is leaking, don't use it. And if your dishwasher gets lopsided, at least you will know that you have a problem and the floor is warping. With nothing there, your dishwasher can leak for years before you notice anything. Don't glue the planks, and it will not be hard to replace. This also saves you back breaking labor putting in the machine and taking it out. Depending on the appliance, it might have a decorative skirt. So you will pull that peice out, adjust legs, put back in, then lift it, and adjust legs again. Yea you know I would rather get it done right, make it easy to service, and make sure I don't have any IF it leaks situations. 

If it does leak, don't glue the laminate under it, and replacement will be easy.


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## TxMojo (May 31, 2010)

Player said:


> TxMojo, that's exactly what my original question was asking. I'm guessing that when installing the flooring parallel to the door and only going halfway into the doorway (because of carpet in the next room), that you have to undercut the door a little further in order to slide the piece back away from the previous row, and allowing room to slide the two together (last row in a hallway). And then hopefully that gap is covered by the transition. Does that make sense?
> 
> btw, what branch of the military are you in?


Ah, was thinking perpendicular going fully under, but yeah as you put it, or float in the middle piece, between the advancing next to last row, and the final piece in place under the undercut door casing...if that's possible with the setup you have going...I've done it both ways. Otherwise measure what gap will be left and see where the transition piece will put you.

Oh, and I'm in the Air Force...I'm in Iraq now, and eagerly waiting to get back to my family and get some projects done that I wasn't able to get to...good luck with yours!


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Thanks, I'm looking forward to finally having this project done (and all the other projects that have domino'd from it.

My cousins (Major in the Army & Captain -Pilot- in the Marines) have been in both Afghanistan & Iraq. One of them is heading back in a month or so for another tour. I know each of you is just doing what you've been called upon to do (or elected to do), and are not looking for recognition...but I certainly appreciate your time and sacrifice. Being away from your family, aside from the other sacrifices and risks, is a lot to ask. Thank you!


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

On a different note, I've removed the carpet in the hallway so I can place laminate there. Some of the rooms off of the hallway still have carpet so I'm having to install a tack strip at each doorway. Where exactly should the tack strip be placed to ensure that the transition fits well. Just under the carpet or back a bit?


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## Player (Jun 20, 2010)

Just curious if the carpet (in an adjoining room) goes under the transition piece at all?


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