# Oscillating Multi-Tool For Gutter/Downspout Work?



## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Hi All,

I've got some aluminum gutter downspout and downspout extension re-engineering to do. One of the projects involves shortening a vertical run to improve (fix, actually) the pitch on the extension that connects to it at the bottom. Another thing I want to do is make cut-outs similar to this










to hinge the extensions.

I was wondering how to cut this stuff neatly, cleanly and conveniently, and it occurred to me one of those oscillating multi-tools might do the trick.

What say the wisdom of the DIYers here?

Thanks!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I'd just cut the "T" with tin snips, fold the sides down, drill the holes, attach and be done!
Seems like a lot of hassle to try to cut it with that tool, although that's not saying it wouldn't work.
I wouldn't know that, since I don't own one. 

DM


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## Broughton (Aug 1, 2011)

I have the dremel multi tool and while I've never tried cutting light gauge metal with it, I don't think it would work very well. The material you are cutting with it must be pretty stiff to resist the oscillation or else the teeth of the cutter will grab it and shake it and booger it up. I agree that tin snips are the way to go but a rotary cutting tool like a rotozip with a metal blade I think would do better than an oscillator if you want to use a power tool.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

DangerMouse said:


> I'd just cut the "T" with tin snips, fold the sides down, drill the holes, attach and be done!
> Seems like a lot of hassle to try to cut it with that tool, although that's not saying it wouldn't work.


I'm with DM & Broughton on this one. I'd recommend going low tech on the downspout. I love me some new toys as much as the next guy, but a hacksaw and tin snips are all you need to cut downspout.


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## michaelcherr (Nov 10, 2010)

For that particular cut, I'd a Dremel or grinder for the cut perpendicular to the gutter and tin snips for the two cuts parallel to the gutter's main axis.

That being said I normally use a hacksaw for gutter work.
I don't think I would choose an oscillating tool, unless you just need an excuse to justify to the misses why you need one.


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

I've rarely, very rarely, had much luck cutting cleanly with tin snips--except for _very_ simple cuts. Otherwise I end up with exceedingly ragged edges that are a cutting and snagging hazard and, quite frankly, look terrible.

From my research on the 'net, hacksaws don't cut aluminum gutter or downspout material very effectively or cleanly?

Not clear to me how you'd cleanly cut that square notch in the end of a piece of downspout with a hacksaw and/or tin snips, in any event.

If you've got 10' of downspout, how to you _cleanly_ cut, say, 6' off of it?

Suggestion I saw elsewhere on the 'net was a small cut-off style saw/blade, such as the cut-off attachment and blades available for the RotoZip.

Thanks for all the answers.


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

michaelcherr said:


> For that particular cut, I'd a Dremel or grinder for the cut perpendicular to the gutter and tin snips for the two cuts parallel to the gutter's main axis.


I have a Dremel. And I have tin snips.



michaelcherr said:


> I don't think I would choose an oscillating tool, unless you just need an excuse to justify to the misses why you need one.


Not really. Admittedly, I've been fascinated by these tools since I first saw the Fein MultiMaster on an infomercial, but I haven't really had a project for which I had a use for one, even if I'd tried to contrive a use :whistling2:

I figured that, with the shape of that cut-out and the wanting to shorten a downspout in-place, that one of those oscillating multi-tools would be just the ticket. From the feedback: It's sounding like it's not.

That's okay, too. I don't _need_ to spend money. I just have a mini-project to do, and it's been my experience that the right tool for the job makes the difference between an enjoyable project and a hassle you wish you'd never started.

Thanks.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

cut with the direction of the leader down the center with snips then use a heavy duty utility knife and blade ''can opener fashion''from the center cut to the sides...be careful


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Or.... hacksaw the top of the "T", then snip up the middle and fold.
I'd make the opening not quite so long too.

DM


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

Personally, I'd cut a "Y" with snips and fold all 3 cut sides under. Wouldn't need to be a clean cut at all. It would also hide all of the sharp edges.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

GottaFixIt said:


> Personally, I'd cut a "Y" with snips and fold all 3 cut sides under. Wouldn't need to be a clean cut at all. It would also hide all of the sharp edges.


I was going to recommend something very similiar. This is an easy cut with tin snips. Just make your straight cuts down each side. Then cut 3/4 of the way down the center, then turn toward one of the corners. When that side is removed, go back to your center cut and take it to other corner. You should have a small triangle left that can just be folded under and out of the way. easy and clean


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Geez, you guys are a power tool lust buzz kill! :laughing:

But your "don't make it any more complicated than it has to be" suggestions make sense. Thanks!

But still...

How best to neatly cut, say, a 10' section of downspout down to, say, 6'?

Then there's this:










As you can see: The extension doesn't fit on that elbow well anymore. I need to trim the downspout up to about where I drew that red line, or a bit higher, so the extension has the proper pitch again. How to cut the downspout w/o taking the whole thing down? _That_, in particular, is where I figured the MT would come in handy.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

hacksaw/knife is how a pro would do it,leader crimpers would be a nice touch but not absolutely necessary


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

The best way, IMO, would be to pull it off and use a bandsaw. Since that's probably not feasible, I think a hacksaw would be your best bet.

A bi-directional power tool (like an oscillating blade) will likely just rattle around on a job like this. You need a blade that you can control the direction of the cut, and keep the the workpiece stable. A circ saw would make a nice cut, but you'd need to be very proficient at it to use it in this situation.


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

With all the other stuff a Multimaster cuts so well, I think a fine blade will work well in this application, ( but I am going to test mine out on a piece and find out.)


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> hacksaw/knife is how a pro would do it,...


In-place?



GottaFixIt said:


> The best way, IMO, would be to pull it off and use a bandsaw. Since that's probably not feasible, ....


Don't have a bandsaw. I do have a couple stationary tools on The List, but that isn't one of them.

Besides: I'm trying to see if I can find a way to do that part _without_ removing the piece. It's not a big deal if I have to, but it'd be neat if I didn't.



GottaFixIt said:


> A bi-directional power tool (like an oscillating blade) will likely just rattle around on a job like this.


Yeah, that's what Broughton suggested might happen.



GottaFixIt said:


> You need a blade that you can control the direction of the cut, and keep the the workpiece stable. A circ saw would make a nice cut, but you'd need to be very proficient at it to use it in this situation.


That's why I'm thinking the cut-off attachment and blade for my RotoZip. High-speed and _should_ be very controllable. But it won't work for the downspout I don't want to remove--unless I remove it.



Rehabber said:


> With all the other stuff a Multimaster cuts so well, I think a fine blade will work well in this application, ( but I am going to test mine out on a piece and find out.)


There we go! :thumbup: While I appreciate all the other answers, insights and solutions, I'm still left wondering: Tho it may be overkill for this application: Would it work? Would it work well?

If nothing else: I think it would be interesting to know the answer to that question.

Thanks.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

IMO: taking it down and cutting with a hacksaw will be the quick, easy, neat way to do it. You could leave it in place and cut it if you remove a strap or two and stick a piece of 2x4 between the house and downspout to give yourself some room to work, but if it's a 10' length I'd just take it down, cut it and toss it back up


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

oh ..i get it.....yes you defiantly need a new tool for this:thumbsup:don't try it unless you have a new multi master with all the blades:no:....this work for ya?:wink:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Tom Struble said:


> .yes you defiantly need a new tool for this


And you can quote him on that too! Now.... go buy it.

DM


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> oh ..i get it.....yes you defiantly need a new tool for this:thumbsup:don't try it unless you have a new multi master with all the blades:no:....this work for ya?:wink:


LOL! In the professional and recreational tree-climbing world it's called "gear lust." Mea culpa: I have gear lust, regardless the endeavor. _But_... ever since I spent a buncha money on the fine woodworking hobby, only to find: 1. I don't have the patience for fine woodworking and 2. Cast iron tools and unheated (or unevenly heated) garages are not a good mix, I'm a bit more circumspect on how I satiate my gear lust .

So, yeah, you're partially correct and partially not: _If_ a MT will do the job neatly, cleanly and conveniently: I'll go that route, even if it can be done with the tools on-hand, if it can save me time & effort. I'll do that because I know I'll find other uses for the MT. (Such as the duplex outlet that needs to be a quad.) But if it's an ineffective solution: I need another tool gathering dust (like that really nice, high-end, micro-adjust plunge router I _never_ used) like I need another hole in the head.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

then how about this,undo the lower leader bracket and cut the darn thing with a hacksaw and put it back together:yes:


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> then how about this,undo the lower leader bracket and cut the darn thing with a hacksaw and put it back together:yes:


Likely as not I'll end up doing that or something similar to it. But I'll await Rehabber's results before doing anything.

This little project has been awaiting my attention for a while. A few more days won't make any difference


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

Plasma cutter.:thumbsup:


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

12penny said:


> Plasma cutter.:thumbsup:


And they call _me_ "Mr. Overkill?" :laughing:


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