# First timer on Trim, need some tips.



## laflsyl10 (Aug 18, 2011)

Hello,
As the title states, i'm a newbie attempting trimwork. 
Here's a short story,
Me and my buddy did some small reno's to my newly acquired condo, we did ceramic tiles and bamboo floors as our initiation to renovation.

Now that the floors are done, i'm trying to decide on what to do with my casings.
I have attached pictures of one casing that i've tried with two different style of header (the top part of the casing). And to be honest, none of them work for me. I'm trying to go for a modern style of trim, with clean lines, and cuting the casing at 45 degre angle is not really my style.
Maybe you guys can shimme in and give me some input. Right now i'm thinking of putting a large and flat piece on the top of the door casing. 

1st pic - Plinth block with casing, and a mock up piece of casing as a baseboard to give the intended look. The baseboard is the same style, except 2 inches higher. Just give an example.











2nd pic, what it looks from far back.











3rd pic, up closer, it look weird where where the horizontal meets the vertical piece. Again, not looking at making a 45 degree cut.









4th pic, i flipped the top piece, again, this looks odd to me.










Other option that i'm considering is the following.
https://elitetrimworks.com/skin1/images/gallery/door_header/fluted_casings.jpg
or maybe just a flat piece of mdf, 

What would you guys recommend.
Thanks again.
Syl


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Because you have a "profile" (curved and notched shapes) to the molding, it really needs to be cut at 45 to look right.


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## QUEENQUITEALOT (Jan 25, 2012)

Try using simple, square corner blocks at the upper corners. No, I don't mean rosettes. I have seen perfectly plain with 45 edges.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

You may want to bevel the inside of your plinths, the door could hit the edge of them if opened too far.


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

You do trim like I do it. 

I'd use fluted pieces for the vertical and horizontal...
a plinth block that was larger than the fluted pieces...
with rosettes at the top corners.


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## laflsyl10 (Aug 18, 2011)

Thanks for the response, i'll try some trials tonight and get back on here tomorrow.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

for picture 1: the proportions dont really work for the plinth block and baseboard in comparison to teh casing. i always use a baseboard that is 2" wider/ taller than the casing. from there the plinth block should be 1" taller than the base

picture 2: having the header casing sitting on top of the legs that way looks terrible, never butt a molding to itself so the profile doesnt smootly flow around the door frame

picture 3: for a boston header same rule applies as to what i mentioned for #1 for the proportions to look correct the header should be atleast 1 1/2- 2 " taller than the width of the casing.. meaning 3" casing with a 5 " header 

heres some examples from my portfolio


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Looks like your trying to use beaded baseboard for casing.
Go buy a Starrett 505 mitre guage. Perfect mitres every time.
Any time your trying to do a 45% at the top of a casing you need to make that joint first. Attach the top piece first, then attach the sides by nailing from the top and sides, then the jamb to casing area. This will hold the top joint area tight and allow you to move the casing from side to side to hold it for an equal exposure.


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## laflsyl10 (Aug 18, 2011)

woodworkbykirk said:


> for picture 1: the proportions dont really work for the plinth block and baseboard in comparison to teh casing. i always use a baseboard that is 2" wider/ taller than the casing. from there the plinth block should be 1" taller than the base
> 
> picture 2: having the header casing sitting on top of the legs that way looks terrible, never butt a molding to itself so the profile doesnt smootly flow around the door frame
> 
> ...


 
Thank you for your reply, very intersting post.
In my picture # 1 you guys seem to have misinterpreted what i was trying to show.
I'm using the same moulding, in this case the casing, on the casing and on the baseboard. But only to show what i was trying to get to. I have the baseboard at home, it is 2 inches taller than the casing that i was making a mock up off.

You guys can see it at this page 13 of the book, the style is ZEN
http://www.classicwoodmouldings.com/resources/content/CWM_OTT_Retail.pdf 

As for the casing itself, it is only held in place by a few nails, and i did install it from top to bottom, but i just posted the image in a difference sequence. I'm still new to this, so i was looking for inputs on headers.

Your image are very helpful.


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## jasin (Jan 22, 2012)

Willie T said:


> Because you have a "profile" (curved and notched shapes) to the molding, it really needs to be cut at 45 to look right.


:thumbsup: I was thinking the same.


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## jasin (Jan 22, 2012)

Where the top trim joins here at the top http://www.diychatroom.com/attachme...5-first-timer-trim-need-some-tips-hanson1.jpg no offense, but that does not look right to me.

Here's a video on How To Cut Inside Corners

http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-cut-crown-molding-inside-corners-creative-crown


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