# Harbor Freight 1.5 ton aluminium floor jack



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You're lifting in the wrong place.

I use one on my Explorer, twice a year to swap from Winter treads, to Summer treads.

Place it under the differential centers, and lift both sides at once, have lugs loosened first, and swap tires and wheels, remembering to rotate tires from corner to corner, to wear them evenly.

ED


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

de-nagorg said:


> You're lifting in the wrong place.
> 
> I use one on my Explorer, twice a year to swap from Winter treads, to Summer treads.
> 
> ...


Wndstar doesn't have a differential. I was using the jack point specified in the owners manual. Trolley jack works fine using that lift point. I was going to check her drum brakes but i got a late start. Heat index was 100 at 9:30 so I just put the inspection off.


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

I think I have that same jack. It works fine on my car and my wife's vehicle, but was too short to lift my son's Crown Vic before he got rid of it. No biggie though, cause I have an old Craftsman floor jack with higher lift capability.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

If you'll pay attention every floor jack has the lifting specs stated on the box - both minimum and the max lift.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

mark sr said:


> If you'll pay attention every floor jack has the lifting specs stated on the box - both minimum and the max lift.


Yeah, I know that. I checked the specs before I bought it. The listed max lift range of the trolley jack is 13 inches. The 1.5 ton aluminum jack lift range is 14.25 inches. Yet the trolley jack lifts the Windstar off the ground but the other one does not.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Bigplanz said:


> Wndstar doesn't have a differential. I was using the jack point specified in the owners manual. Trolley jack works fine using that lift point. I was going to check her drum brakes but i got a late start. Heat index was 100 at 9:30 so I just put the inspection off.


 I saw one of those on a 1990 Windstar, punch right through the support and into the passenger compartment. 

Back about 15 years ago, it had rusted badly and was NOT THE RIGHT PLACE to be jacking the van.


ED


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## czizzi (May 28, 2018)

I bought the 3 ton low profile jack from HF as the 1 1/2 ton did the same thing with my Suburban works great. Had to use it on a 6x6 block on the 1 1/2 ton and watch to make sure it didn't slip and used heavy jack stands once in the air. I think you need to measure the ground clearance of your vehicle and then seek out a jack that will lift beyond that so you can get the wheels off the ground.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

de-nagorg said:


> I saw one of those on a 1990 Windstar, punch right through the support and into the passenger compartment.
> 
> Back about 15 years ago, it had rusted badly and was NOT THE RIGHT PLACE to be jacking the van.
> 
> ...


Trolley jack punched through the lift point on a 91 Olds I used to have. If it looks sketchy I use the frame rail and always have a jack stand under there. Ford design is a pinch weld. Olds had bolted on plate. Plate bolt holes rusted and it fell off. Trolley jack punched rignt through the thinner metal. Lift points for the Navigator are all structural elements. I have a 3 ton truck jack for it.

I guess i wiil keep my 6x6 block of wood handy and slide the jack under the rail next time. I got it for $59 on sale and it does work. 5 inch tall piece of 6x6 compensated ok for what I was doing. Might keep it in back of the truck for use on other peoples cars on the road.


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

The block of wood needs both a top and bottom "cap" of something like a 2x4 or 2x6 in order to add some cross-grain stability to minimize any potential for the vertical load to split the block.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I have a couple of 4x4 mending plates I was going to use for this very purpose. Wife "cleaned up" my work room, so I couldn't find them.:wink2:


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Intentions are all good and well, but if not acted upon, they mean nothing, and the results can sometimes be disastrous.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

F250 said:


> Intentions are all good and well, but if not acted upon, they mean nothing, and the results can sometimes be disastrous.


It was an experiment, more than anything else. As noted in the vid, the setup didn't inspire great confidence. I am always wary of work arounds involving potentially fatal consequences.


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Bigplanz said:


> It was an experiment, more than anything else. As noted in the vid, the setup didn't inspire great confidence. I am always wary of work arounds involving potentially fatal consequences.



I understand completely. Work arounds can be done well and sometimes even work better (or simpler), but extreme caution is necessary. Safety RULES just as much as does the lack of it! I've rarely repeated my stupidest mistakes, but some have have included results things like minor vibrations from a hot outlet, stepping through a sheet rock ceiling, broken leg and ankle from F250 truck "incident", and a pipe momentarily being welded onto vehicle battery post, etc. I only share that to tell you that I've managed to survive some of my work arounds, but in one or two cases.... barely!

Thinking through the potential implications of any work around should not be a spur of the moment thing unless you're willing to risk some potentially major injuries. When it comes to lifting a vehicle, the potential implications of even "doing it right" can sometimes be quite risky.

I only repeat myself to urge caution for your sake and for the sake of your friends/family members.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

You guys were right. Where I was lifting was not the correct lift point. Instead of Haynes, I went to the factory shop manual I bought a couple of months ago, and the lift points are marked on the frame with a triangle. Attached is the diagram straight from the factory shop manual. I will see if I get better results using, ah, the right lift points. 

Safety recommendations are always welcome!


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