# hanging upper cabinets without studs



## picsaro

Must I position my cabinets so that each end is up against a stud? Unless the cabinet is 16 inches wide, how could I do that? If there is, for instance, one stud down the middle of the cabinet, is that sufficient? If not, what can I do properly hang them?

These are cheap cabinets in a laundry room, and wont be holding much weight.

thanks


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## jlhaslip

... the answer depends on the construction of your cabinets and the strength of the backs.

When I build cabinets, the back is a piece of 5/8" melamine rabbeted into the top/bottom/sides and I have been successful hanging them off a single stud. If they connect to other cabinets beside them it is better.
I build Euro-style frameless boxes.


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## COLDIRON

No, most cabinets do not end up exactly on studs.
Make sure you install the correct screws 3" preferred toward the tops mostly where sheer weight is then clamp the other cabinets together after lining them up and leveling and put small screws in the front sides of each cabinet to keep them all together and lined up. Make sure you catch enough studs to support the weight. It's a lot with all those dishes.

NOTE: try to screw through the thickest wood for support not the flimsy backer piece.


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## bjbatlanta

Yep, 3" screws in the double top plate of your wall. And no drywall screws, the are brittle and the heads can snap off easily......


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## TheCamper

Assuming that these are 30" tall wall cabinets you will not want to go all the way up to attached the cabinet to the top plates in the wall. If you feel that the cabinet will not be properly supported by the studs then I suggest you lay out on the wall in pencil where the cabinet will be installed, mark out your studs and then carefully cut away the gypsum board, nicely so that you can reinstall it, and then between the studs at a height where the cabinet is to be screwed at the top, you install between the studs some type of wood stock, e.g. 2 X 4, 2 X 6, 3/4" plywood. I prefer the plywood, I install a piece of wood, say 1 1/2" x 2 3/4" x 10" on the inside of each of two opposing studs then screw the piece of 3/4" plywood that is about 8" x 14 1/2" to the two pieces of wood you just installed; then screw up the gypsum board that you removed. If any of the gypsum seams are going to show you will have to tape and spackle.


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## moorewarner

COLDIRON said:


> No, most cabinets do not end up exactly on studs.
> Make sure you install the correct screws 3" preferred toward the tops mostly where sheer weight is then clamp the other cabinets together after lining them up and leveling and put small screws in the front sides of each cabinet to keep them all together and lined up. Make sure you catch enough studs to support the weight. It's a lot with all those dishes.
> 
> NOTE: try to screw through the thickest wood for support not the flimsy backer piece.


Basically what COLDIRON said. You are screwing the cabs to each other and to the studs, top and bottom where ever they happen to land. Don't screw inside the cabinets, screw from above and under neath where you will get solid wood and it wont show. 

Also when you face screw the cabs together, you can pull off the door hinge and put your screw between the hinge screws so that when the hinges go back on the face screws will be hidden. You will want to counter sink the face screws a 1/4" or so with a speedbore slightly larger than the screw head and predrill to avoid any possible splitting. Also use shorter screws than the ones into the wall to make sure you don't pop out the far side.

The clamps are a must to get this right and make it easier.


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## moorewarner

I forgot to add, a nice cheat for putting cabs up is to draw a line with your level at where the bottom of the cabs are going. Then screw in a 2x4 (as log as your run of cabinets) to the wall at he studs so your 2x4 sits with the top of the board at the line.

At that point you have a ledge to set the cab on as you screw it into place. After you get the first one screwed in you can just set the second beside it and clamp it top and bottom to your fist cab and it will stay right there for you till you screw it in to the wall and to the other cabinet.

Unclamp, set the next and repeat on down the line.


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## jlhaslip

moorewarner said:


> I forgot to add, a nice cheat for putting cabs up is to draw a line with your level at where the bottom of the cabs are going. Then screw in a 2x4 (as log as your run of cabinets) to the wall at he studs so your 2x4 sits with the top of the board at the line.
> 
> At that point you have a ledge to set the cab on as you screw it into place. After you get the first one screwed in you can just set the second beside it and clamp it top and bottom to your fist cab and it will stay right there for you till you screw it in to the wall and to the other cabinet.
> 
> Unclamp, set the next and repeat on down the line.


This method works fine IF the homeowner doesn't mind patching the screw holes or if there will be tiles/etc covering the wall.
When the holes are a concern, ie: the walls are finish coated, screw the ledger at the top of the cabinet and push them up into position.
Not quite as easy, but keeps the homeowners happier... :thumbsup:


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## slickgt1

I usually remove sheetrock, or whatever the wall behind the cabinets is, and replace it with plywood. I still try to hit the studs through the plywood, but when it happens that there is not stud, I don't really worry too much. 4 screws into the plywood, 4 - 8 into the adjoining cabinets, and I can sit in those things without a problem. 

Don't try sitting in your cabinets. I build my own euro style boxes as well. 3/4 prefinished maple plywood, with 1/2" prefinished plywood back is my favorite.


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