# Glueing Drywall to a Garage Block Wall



## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Plan is to glue two 4x8 sheets of ½” greenboard to a concrete block wall. Condo is 15 years old in Santa Monica CA. The painted Block wall has never had any water infiltration or been damp according to the owner. There is no blistering at all on the 15 year old (unknown type) wall paint. The garage floor is about 4' below ground level. Anything wrong with this Proposal?

What is the best way to do the glue-up?
What kind of glue?


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Palibob, I'd sure recommend that you install some wood furring strips to the block with fasteners, and then attach your drywall to that. Gluing directly to the block won't probably work out all that well long term.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Yeah, I agree furring strips would be ideal but there is a complication in that there is a small laundry room that has its hinge jamb attached directly to the block wall.

The owner had the laundry wall drywalled about a year ago (not by me) It was glued on and seems to look OK.

I was thinking about "Liquid Nails for Paneling"
http://www.liquidnails.com/products/index.jsp


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

I found a Liquid Nails Drywall Adhesive that has better specs than their std DW Adhesive. It's rated for Drywall to Block & just about anything else except exterior or poly foam:
http://www.liquidnails.com/products/product.jsp?productId=20


Compared to their more common advesive for drywall:
http://www.liquidnails.com/products/product.jsp?productId=81

.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I'd use GP Densarmor drywall rather than green board. Green board is a thing of the past as far as I'm concerned. If you are concerned enough to use green board, then your best bet would be to put up something that will not grow mold.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Maintenance 6 said:


> ................... your best bet would be to put up something that will not grow mold.


Agreed that DensArmor will not grow mold because Mold attacks paper, and by eliminating the paper, DensArmor Plus can offer a three-month replacement warranty after it has been installed. The 3 Month Warranty means that it is mold resistant not mold proof. I know DensArmor would be far superior to Greenboard on the mold question, but I have other drivers.
 
DensArmor in my case would be overkill that the owner would not agree too because of the added cost and finishing, and that the adjacent Laundry Room has no mold problem with drywall that has been glued on for over a year.


​


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## bwalley (Feb 10, 2009)

PaliBob said:


> Plan is to glue two 4x8 sheets of ½” greenboard to a concrete block wall. Condo is 15 years old in Santa Monica CA. The painted Block wall has never had any water infiltration or been damp according to the owner. There is no blistering at all on the 15 year old (unknown type) wall paint. The garage floor is about 4' below ground level. Anything wrong with this Proposal?
> 
> What is the best way to do the glue-up?
> What kind of glue?


It needs to be furred out.

Gluing it is not a good idea, it will fail.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

bwalley said:


> Gluing it is not a good idea, it will fail.


Why do you think that, Is it becuse of water infiltration? or glue failure? or something else?
Thanks


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## bwalley (Feb 10, 2009)

PaliBob said:


> Why do you think that, Is it becuse of water infiltration? or glue failure? or something else?
> Thanks


all of the above.

Look at Application and Finishing of Gypsum Board GA-216-96


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

bwalley said:


> all of the above.................


bwalley,
Thank You for the clear and concise answer


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## bwalley (Feb 10, 2009)

PaliBob said:


> bwalley,
> Thank You for the clear and concise answer


I told it will fail and how to do it properly, you wanted to know why it would, does it really matter why it will not work?

I then reffred you to an industry standard manual on the installation of gypsum (Drywall), now yoy want to get smart.

You are not going to listen to professional advice and do whatever you want anyway, so why bother asking?

The good thing for you it isn't your house it is a rental, so hack away.:thumbsup:


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

PaliBob said:


> Agreed that DensArmor will not grow mold because Mold attacks paper, and by eliminating the paper, DensArmor Plus can offer a three-month replacement warranty after it has been installed. The 3 Month Warranty means that it is mold resistant not mold proof. I know DensArmor would be far superior to Greenboard on the mold question, but I have other drivers.
> 
> DensArmor in my case would be overkill that the owner would not agree too because of the added cost and finishing, and that the adjacent Laundry Room has no mold problem with drywall that has been glued on for over a year.​


OK. That being the case, then why bother with greenboard. Go with regular drywall and save even more $.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Maintenance 6 said:


> OK. That being the case, then why bother with greenboard. Go with regular drywall and save even more $.


In the pic there are two rain gutter metal pipes near the ceiling that carry rainwater out to the street. These have never had a leak but there is always that possibility. That's why the Condo owner will go for the small upcharge for water resistant greenboard.

In this particular case there is negligible risk of mold caused by water infiltration though the block wall and there is even less risk that manufacturer speced drywall adhesive will fail.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

So far you've argued against all of the advice posted in response to your original question, so it's pretty obvious that you are going to glue green board onto the block wall, regardless of what anybody here says. So I have to ask, just what is it you wanted to know in the first place?


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## Diamondblack (Jan 6, 2009)

Maybe you should just stucco the wall.
Cheapest by far.
Eventually moisture from the air, not from leaks or the ground, just regular old humidity, will cause the paper to separate from the gypsum. Warm moist air from the living space will condense on the block wall, providing the moisture necessary to cause the separation, not to mention the fine crop of mold you will have. The proper method is to build a wall, then insulate it, providing a vapor barrier, then attaching drywall in the normal manner.
If you are not going to live there for more than a year or so, just slap regular drywall up with some PL400 and call it a day. 
As for green board, can't think of a more ridiculous product. Every bathroom I've ever had to repair rotten walls in, had green board. Lot more marketing than product there. In wet areas you just can't use gypsum.

By the way, I would definitely recommend setting up your computer underneath those gutter pipes, they like water as much as drywall.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Maintenance 6 said:


> So I have to ask, just what is it you wanted to know in the first place?





PaliBob said:


> Anything wrong with this Proposal?
> What is the best way to do the glue-up?
> What kind of glue?


All the responses were to the first question. I appreciate all the responses that were given in good faith to help me from falling off a cliff. My first question should have been is there anything wrong other than problems associated with water infiltration......? To that question I think the consensus was *NO*

To answer the second question _bwalley_ steered me to a source that had the answer.
See Attachment

I didn't get one suggestion for the third question.
I was able to find the answer on my own:
Liquid Nails® - Drywall Adhesive (BC-150)

Thanks to All


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## Diamondblack (Jan 6, 2009)

PL400
Only glue I ever buy in a tube.
Never found anything it won't bond to.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

PL does make a well rated line of Adhesives:
http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/panel_construction/panel_construction.asp

.


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