# using 1/4 drywall for ceiling



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

1/4" is not acceptable for a ceiling as a primary surface. 1/2" minimum with 5/8" is preferred. Rent a sheetrock dolly to help hoist them up there. Much easier and not all that expensive.


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## finisher65 (Apr 7, 2019)

100% what Chandler posted


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I'd be leery of 1/4" drywall being used to laminate over a ceiling. 1/2" is ok for ceilings that have the joists on 16" centers, 5/8" is preferred and needed if the the ceiling joists are on 24" centers.


If you don't want to rent a lift you can take a 2x4 and make a T that you can prop one side of the drywall up with while you push up and screw the other side.


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

mark sr said:


> If you don't want to rent a lift you can take a 2x4 and make a T that you can prop one side of the drywall up with while you push up and screw the other side.


I thought I was the only one who did that!


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Tongue in cheek, but you could take an 8' step ladder and do the same, except you'll never be able to get the ladder out of the room.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

CaptTom said:


> I thought I was the only one who did that!





I learned that trick from a drywall hanger many moons ago. 

You do want to make the top of the T about 1" lower than the unfinished ceiling so there are no issues removing it. It works well to hold up one side while you screw the other side, then you just walk your way over to fasten that side. 



Another trick I learned from hangers is to preset nails along the perimeter of the board so you can quickly secure the board - then go back and screw the rest. The nails under tape are unlikely to pop later on.


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## JLawrence08648 (Mar 1, 2019)

I'd rather make a I than a T.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)




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## finisher65 (Apr 7, 2019)

Nealtw said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8QxrP0-wes


Except he's lining up the butt joints. Big no no


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

finisher65 said:


> Except he's lining up the butt joints. Big no no


 Yes but it shows what some one with no experience can figure out. 

:vs_cool:


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> 1/4" is not acceptable for a ceiling as a primary surface. 1/2" minimum with 5/8" is preferred. Rent a sheetrock dolly to help hoist them up there. Much easier and not all that expensive.


Would doubling up on the 1/4" meet the 1/2" minimum? (Not that it's a great idea but if someone was able to manhandle 1/4", but not 1/2".)


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

huesmann said:


> Would doubling up on the 1/4" meet the 1/2" minimum? (Not that it's a great idea but if someone was able to manhandle 1/4", but not 1/2".)


Maybe if you glued them together first. You might get some waviness just screwing the first layer up before the second layer goes over top. But why go to that much trouble? Just start with 1/2", use a lift, a prop, or find a helper for the ceiling.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

1/4" will weigh 1/2 as much and break 2 x easier over head.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

How about a T&G ceiling tile.?

Cost a little more then drywall, but much lighter, easier to install, and when your done hanging the tiles your done.

They come in many sizes and shapes to choose from.

One person can easily hang them and in one day.

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1...c.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.152...0i13k1.0.g12qJ2l-W-s


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

mark sr said:


> You do want to make the top of the T about 1" lower than the unfinished ceiling so there are no issues removing it. It works well to hold up one side while you screw the other side, then you just walk your way over to fasten that side.


I actually make mine a bit longer than the ceiling height. That makes it easy to jam them up tight. They always snug up at a slight angle. I never had a problem kicking the bottom out and releasing them. Sometimes they come down on their own when the weight of the panel is removed by screwing it into the ceiling. But at that point I'm right there to catch it anyway.

I've tried with and without a brace on the bottom (an "I".) There is a risk of the panel swaying side-to-side without it, but that's pretty easy to control. I guess if you were using two poles, like in the video, using an "I" for the stationary one at the edge of the wall would make sense. I've never done that.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've never added a brace at the bottom. The T usually falls away as you work your way to that end of the board. I like a little leeway in the T's height in case there are any variances in the floor/ceiling .... but then it's not like I hang a lot a rock!


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## woodypecker (Aug 6, 2016)

Thanks for the responses, I'm going to try and get one of my kids to give me a hand. one area is just 4 feet wide, so I'm not sure if one of those sheet rock contraction will fit. will try the tee thing if my kid isn't available.


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## bilham57 (Jan 21, 2019)

In terms of fire rating, check local codes. You will need at least half inch SR.

Any home inspector could catch this and flag it.

Also, if there's humidity in the basement, the SR will sag over time.

It's not that much harder to work with 1/2 in SR, in some ways easier.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Sometimes you have to give credit where credit is due.

I think this is one of those times.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

1/4" is never acceptable for a ceiling. Google USG Ultra light drywall. Up to 30% lighter than traditional 1/2" panels. Acceptable for up to 24" framing and water based texture (stipple or spray). The use of 5'8" is no longer necessary for ceilings (unless local codes require it.....).


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## woodco (Jun 11, 2017)

woodypecker said:


> Hello all, I'm helping my cousin to fix up her sister's house so that she can sell it. this will be located in the basement area that surrounds her garage. I was contemplating about using 1/4 inch drywall for the ceiling since I'll be working by myself and figure the thinner stuff would be more manageable. I'm going to use 1/2 on the walls. any pro's and con's about this? Thanks


Just get a helper for the day and do it right.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Good thought woodco, but two people who don't know what they're doing isn't necessarily a good thing. Maybe find a qualified drywall hanger who is willing to work for a day and use the OP as a helper. He will learn.....


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## woodco (Jun 11, 2017)

Thats definitely a better idea...


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## woodco (Jun 11, 2017)

bilham57 said:


> In terms of fire rating, check local codes. You will need at least half inch SR.
> 
> Any home inspector could catch this and flag it.
> 
> ...


Heres a question: If its already an open ceiling, and Ive seen plenty of open ceilings in basements, why would there need to be a fire rating for sheetrock? Or, is open ceilings against code nowadays?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I don't think basements need firecode rock. At least I've never seen it around here. If they do in some areas, maybe the thinking is that once you finish the basement, there's more chance of fire..... Or maybe 5/8" rock is required on the ceiling (for sag resistance) and most people assume it's got to be fire rated. I guess they still make 5/8" non-fire rated rock. Haven't had the need for it in years. I know they used to make it. Some counties around here require firecode for "drive under" garages on ceiling and "party wall" to the house. Many don't.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

bjbatlanta said:


> I don't think basements need firecode rock. At least I've never seen it around here. If they do in some areas, maybe the thinking is that once you finish the basement, there's more chance of fire..... Or maybe 5/8" rock is required on the ceiling (for sag resistance) and most people assume it's got to be fire rated. I guess they still make 5/8" non-fire rated rock. Haven't had the need for it in years. I know they used to make it. Some counties around here require firecode for "drive under" garages on ceiling and "party wall" to the house. Many don't.


Some places call for it to be done in new houses when it has engineered I joist floor.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

The _reason_ you don't use 1/4" drywall, that for some reason no one has mentioned yet, is that it tends to sag. Using 2 layers of 1/4" doesn't really help that situation. It's simply not strong enough. By the time you glued it together with enough glue to really strengthen it, you will have spent more money and time than using 1/2" with a lift to begin with.


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## woodypecker (Aug 6, 2016)

Thanks for all the responses. Ended up using the 1/2 inch sheetrock for the ceiling and getting my kids to help. Just have to get them coordinated when lifting. it's amazing how this younger generation lack's the stamina that I had when I was their age. hopefully I'll get this done before I get any older.


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## michaelsiebert84 (8 mo ago)

woodypecker said:


> Hello all, I'm helping my cousin to fix up her sister's house so that she can sell it. this will be located in the basement area that surrounds her garage. I was contemplating about using 1/4 inch drywall for the ceiling since I'll be working by myself and figure the thinner stuff would be more manageable. I'm going to use 1/2 on the walls. any pro's and con's about this? Thanks


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## michaelsiebert84 (8 mo ago)

I've done over 25,000 of drywall by myself don't rent a drywall lift only for sissies, like that other comment. Use 16 inch centers 1, 6 foot ladder amd 1 step ladder lay the 3/8" 9n the 6 foot ladder and step up lifting the drywall move it around to fit wall nicely. And just put 1 screw NOT THROUGH paper amd gently hold drywall and put a second screw not through the paper. This will hold 3/8 1/2 and 5/8 drywall move step ladder amd continue. easy really easy to do ceilings by yourself.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

@michaelsiebert84 thanks for your "macho" response to a 3 year old thread. You may can hang drywall like you describe. Not everyone has that acumen. That is why a drywall lift was suggested. Safer, easier, and more accurate.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

Hey now … he’s done 25,000 square inches of drywall by himself on 16” centers. Never has done any 24”” centers yet … still waiting for that job. And he recommends 3/8” drywall too. I think walmart stocks that size.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Half-fast eddie said:


> Hey now … he’s done 25,000 square inches of drywall


Well we don't really know that. 25,000 seconds of drywall? 25,000 mistakes with drywall? Asked 25,000 questions about drywall? We can't be sure.

There is some useful advice, such as "1, 6 foot ladder amd 1 step ladder lay the 3/8" 9n the 6". We should all try to do that, of course.

But we must keep one thing in mind - do not put your screws through the paper! That is a good innovation.


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