# Recommendations for painting T-111



## dsconstructs (Jun 8, 2011)

Not a fan of solid body stains for something like this. 

T1-11 is a plywood product. I'd much prefer to use a good quality primer paying a little extra attention to filling the grooves nice and solid, then a quality paint over the top. If you look sideways into the grooves you'll see some voids in the plies, that's what I'm after getting good and sealed to keep water from getting in there. 

Not sure how you are going to paint....brush/roll or spray but......What I do is spray and back roll with a heavy nap roller, actually spraying the majority of the material into the grooves themselves and then the roller helps distribute the paint across the face of the siding while making it easier to fill the groove solid, not having to push so hard with the roller. Basically, spraying just as a means of speeding the process up rather than dipping the roller constantly.


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## jarheadoo7 (Jun 7, 2011)

x2 spray the grooves and back roll.. i wouldnt use a stain either.. esp going red... prime with a nice gray and 2 coats of red.. that barn will look awesome and should last at least 5 -7 years before a wash and maintenance coat.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

looks like the siding is below grade?  wont matter what you do if that's the case


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

I would use a solid stain on it. Sherwin Williams Woodscapes solid stain


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I think I will skip the stain. 

As for the area that looks like it is below grade...that is actually a pile of dirt and rubble right in front (but about three feet away) which I need to get rid of.


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## jarheadoo7 (Jun 7, 2011)

post pics!!


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I don't do much exterior- but from the pro forum I hear lots of guys like to prime T-111 with XIM's Peel Bond. It is clear and thick and bonds well, makes a great barrier to moisture and surface for painting.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Wow, not much love for a solid color stain! I think the stain will last much longer on the T-111 than paint. I've done it both ways and like the stain better. Especially in Maine where the weather is a bear, I would like the stain for its' longer durability.


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

jarheadoo7 said:


> x2 spray the grooves and back roll.. i wouldnt use a stain either.. esp going red... prime with a nice gray and 2 coats of red.. that barn will look awesome and should last at least 5 -7 years before a wash and maintenance coat.


What's the thinking behind the gray primer? Just easier to cover than white? I typically get my primer tinted the same shade as my finish coat.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

Quality solid stain will last just as long as any quality paint, but the stain won't peel down the road like paint will. We have done a few red and white barns using solid stain with success.


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## dsconstructs (Jun 8, 2011)

I have to admit that I haven't tried the Sherwin Williams Woodscape product. Just maybe it's that much better than any solid body stains I have used......
However to say that paint WILL peel......:whistling2:


Ah well, whatever product you decide to go with....pay extra attention to the grooves.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

And the bottom ends of the panels, as mentioned you should be 8" to grade. I hope you used metal flashing under the tar paper between sheets (horizontally) and over the garage door..........

Gary


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

GBR in WA said:


> And the bottom ends of the panels, as mentioned you should be 8" to grade. I hope you used metal flashing under the tar paper between sheets (horizontally) and over the garage door..........
> 
> Gary


Metal flashing is in place where necessary. Also, as mentioned already, The bottom ends of the panels are properly above grade. In fact, that is one of the deficiencies that I am having to correct as I work on the barn. In many places around the perimeter, the ground has been allowed to creep up to the siding (image below is one of the least worrisome examples.) This issue has an additional complication in that the area is completely flat, except for the gradual grade UP TO the siding around the barn. Probably going to have to ditch around the perimeter to create drainage and proper grade. I have already replaced most of the sill on the front of the building with PT (original was not), and have plenty more to do along the other walls as well. In several places, I am going to end up replacing studs, or at least sistering in at the base as well.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Yes, that's what I was saying, the wood panels wick water up from the concrete slab touching wet ground under it. Not just splash water......

Thanks for the picture. The side wall drains water to the slab where the siding sucks it up to mold and rot... Add some "L" flashing under/behind the new siding to direct it over the slab edge, not onto.

Gary


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