# Furnace Transfer Switch...



## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Over in Electrical some of us have been chatting about the proper use of a generator and specifically about being able to power up a gas furnace during a power outage.

One of the posts mentions a furnace transfer switch. Following is what was posted by satchris:

"Here is a product that allows you to replace that existing switch at the furnace with this furnace transfer switch. It provides a male 15amp to which you can connect the standard female end of an extension cord. It has a switch with three positions: LINE, OFF, GEN. They also offer a 20amp model TF201W. The brand on this is Reliance and the model is Pro/Tran TF*151W*. It says Standby Power Furnace Switch. I am sure other companies produce similar products. Here is a link for the product at Northern Tool:
http://www2.northerntool.com/product..._200196724.htm"

and the manufacturers website at:

http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Prod...spx?pl=et&c=&f=

...Would like to know what you HVAC pros think of this?

Thanks, Casey


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## acefurnacefixer (Nov 24, 2006)

I like the 15 amp better............20 amp in most cases would be over kill.


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Ace, I agree since the 15 amp will trip sooner if something happens. Otherwise, does this seem safe and reasonable option? I will be getting a permit and having an inspection on this installation.


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## acefurnacefixer (Nov 24, 2006)

Absolutly....................


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## #CARRIERMAN (Oct 18, 2006)

Hi caseywa

See if you can get mdshunks opinion on this also. He is normally right on the money with his answers. I would reccomend this before you spend your money.

Good luck
Rusty


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Install an outlet box before the wiring enters the furnace. The outlet box will have a switch and an outlet. Have the power coming to the furnace go to the switch first and then to the outlet. The outlet will then go to the furnace. When the generator is needed turn off switch (seperating the power from the main panel) and plug into the outlet with your cord from the generator.

The main shut off for the furnace should still remain.

Label the new outlet/switch accordingly.


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Copy you #Carrierman...will do. 

redline...currently the furnace is hardwire as I believe is required by the NEC even though the code is not rock solid on this issue. (I have the 2005 code book) The furnace is now wired coming into a single outlet then to an on/off switch. This is guess allows anyone working on the furnace to have a sure way of cutting the power and still have an outlet to use if needed.

Whatya think mdshunks?


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## mdshunk (Dec 4, 2005)

Redline's advice is hazardous, and not code compliant. 

That single circuit transfer switch with the little 15 amp flanged inlet is just what you need. 99 bucks... it's a no-brainer. Now, if you feel that you want maybe the refrigerator and a couple of other things on the generator too, you can get a very similar transfer switch that will do a couple of more circuits. The frige and microwave and such have cords on already, so you can always run an extension cord out to the generator to get by. You can't really do that with your furnace, so that transfer switch is right on the money!


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## caseywa (Nov 7, 2006)

Thank you mdshunk....that is the way I would like to go. Since we have infrequent outages I do not mind running the spaghetti lines from the generator to the fridge, freezer and a few lights. It was the heat that would make the difference. I am a firm believer in doing it right and being safe as a diy homeowner.

I appreciate both you and #Carrierman for being around sharing your thoughts, you both have my respect.

Casey


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## DonR (Feb 14, 2008)

Hi
After a power outage where I wired in my furnace with the Main off. I think I have a design for a box that will automatically isolate the Furnace from the Main and allow an extention cord to be safely connected to run it.
The box would be prewired, and only require that the power cable to the furnace be cut & connected on either side of the box..Any thoughts


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## chris75 (Aug 25, 2007)

caseywa said:


> Over in Electrical some of us have been chatting about the proper use of a generator and specifically about being able to power up a gas furnace during a power outage.
> 
> One of the posts mentions a furnace transfer switch. Following is what was posted by satchris:
> 
> ...


I'm not a HVAC guy but an electrician... what do you want to know about the product? it does what is says it does...


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## DonR (Feb 14, 2008)

Hi Chris 75
Yep, the trasnfer switch at Northern is excellent, my "brillant" design had Micro switches that opened when a flap over the Male connection was lifted,
The Switch at Notherntool is available, mine is "all in my head" thanks for your time and trouble ...DonR


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

having read this thread why aren't your going into your main house circuit breaker panel to catch the entire house during a outage?......:whistling2:


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## DonR (Feb 14, 2008)

*Transfer Switch*

Biggles
If your reply was for me, Going into the Main Panel, requires a professional to complete the installation, and this is followed by an electrical inspection.
If you go this route you may as well get a 6 or more circuit box to run more appliances in an outage, you will need a 5000 Watt or better Generator.
What I had in mined was a DIY box on the Furnace Line that would run the Furnace from a smaller Generator, (3000 Watts) using an extension cord. the box would be designed to isolate the Furnace, and not allow feed back to the Panel and out onto the line.
DonR


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

*3000 vs 5000 series generator*

thats 30 amps vs 50 amps.....give or take an amp.even if you have a gas furnace for heated air into the house your draw in amps might be 6 amps top during a run.a gas boiler your looking at 2-3 amps the oil burner type would draw the most for heating a house.100 watt light bulb draw .4 amps refrigerator draws 2.5 amps aassorted electronics 5 amps.i have a 3500 series enerator wired into my house panel 50' up my drive way with the gen.in the garage and have run it with meters on both legs of the tie ins(fuse box) and it is tops 7 to 8 amps on each....TV on COMPUTER on 4 lights on FRIG running.my point is all the trouble you going thru to run a heating system and walk around with flash lights when you can run your whole house with a 3500 (30 amps)tied into the top of your circuit breaker panel with a disconnect switch from the generator.i have 2/30 toggle switches next to my fuse box that control the 2/115V lines coming in from the generator..my street isolation is a pull block that holds the 2/fuses for the power companies(230V)feeder coming in.







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## DonR (Feb 14, 2008)

*Generators & Switch'n*

Hi Biggles
Wow! I'm impressed ! and that Generator looks like it just came out of the Factory.. now what I'm thinking of is for a DIY type of fella, someone who doesn't want to, or can't layout bucks for a system that he may never need, I live in Prince Edward Island Can. and Winter weather often leaves us with power outages, 2 weeks ago parts of the Island were out for a week, thankfully it only lasted 24 hours at my abode, but we can have an ice storm followed by freezing tempatures, this is the big danger in this area, and to have an easy and inexpensive way to keep pipes from bursting in the cold is what I had in mind when I though of a simple extension cord box that would keep the occupants of a house warm and prevent damage from occuring..I have a 6 Circuit panel waiting to be installed, and I plan to get this done first thing this spring, I a bought a 6250 Generator in the fall, didn't have the panel installed and had to jury rig a connection to my Furnace, I though there are lots of Generators out there that are not fitted with a panel hookup, and probable lots of homerowners that have no idea how to connect it to their furnace...These were my thoughts at the time. I can tell that you are knowledgable on this subject, but most home owners are not.
When I got a Generator this fall, my Wife thiugh it was a waste on money, but during the 24 hours that it kept the furnace, freezer,fridge going she even muttered that we should of had one years ago...bye for now DonR


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

i know your hesitation on going into the house panel with generated power and running/switching over and such.just like you stated it may be a waste of time/money when you don't use it,but boy when you run it during a outage don't you feel great,and secure especially with the furnace running in the winters up there.imagine this for your hook-up have an electrican run power pole sized wire into your basement CB area into a fused/disconnect...and then the other side of the disconnect into the bottom of the panel shut down switch.you shut the CB panel main off...start your generator(manually plug in the 2/115V lines at the generator as shown)the power is at the top of the disconnect in the basement...main switch on CB panel is off(you could also put all the sub breakers into the off position)put the disconnect up for the generator power.you now have 115V on each side of the CB for the house...start putting on the sub breakers top to bottom...refrig/heating biggest draws on start then put them all on.be conservative with the big stuff dishwasher,micros,washing machines,ceiling fans..cool stuff...minimal draws...computers,TVs,sound systems,lights just run them as you would normally at night.might want to think about emergency wall mounted lighting very low profile and cheap and they run for 90 minutes,and can be taken off a wall socket either down the wall...position the floods just to hit the ceiling to light up the rooms,halls,kitchen.check out HD up there or www.grainger.com for the styles they come up in a black out you walk out and prep your generator 30 minutes later you switch over and the floods go off and the house comes to life again....your neighbors will be knocking on your door with extension cords!that uinit you have does an easy 60 amps figure 6-10 amps to run a house at night in the winter,that's 6-10 houses you could run:thumbsup:


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