# Painting deck railing...which Big box store paint?



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

One thing I would never do is paint anything on a deck........spindles included. Just stain them white.
As for SW, they have many versions of their paint........you don't have to buy Duration. There's SuperPaint, A-100, among others that are reasonable in price. If you insist on painting the spindles, be sure to prime them and apply 2 coats of paint, my choice would be SuperPaint.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I haven't been happy with the stains. Re-doing every 3 years. I am looking for something that will last a little longer. Plus we are hoping to replace them with trex (eventually)

How much is the super paint and A- 100 paint? (EDIT: contacted local store...superpaint $54.99 and A-100 $41.99) Unfortunately the superpaint is too expensive.

We probably have 80+ feet of railing

So no paint & primer combo?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I would see what SW's Woodscapes Acrylic Solid Stain in White (or whatever color you want it tinted) is going for and use it for this. Ben Moore has a comparable product but I never used it before "retiring". I think it is Arborcoat but do not hold me to that. Both are self-priming. 

You will not get the life out of a box store paint or solid stain you will from something like Woodscapes so one way or the other you will pay the price difference or more since you will have to do the railing again next year if you use box store product. 

You do not want to trust the paint and primer in one hype for this. Especially if you want to milk what longevity you can out of the paint job you should lay down a separate, quality primer coat first---if you paint and do not solid stain. As mentioned, if painting, factor in a primer coat and two coats of finish. 

You will probably have to scruff the Restore surface for adhesion of either paint or solid stain as well. I've never put a finish over that stuff so do not know for sure how to advise you to prep. Perhaps the only thing that will work is a high bond primer and two coats. 

Obviously you say your exposing the product you pick to the harshest of environments so any product will feel the environment. Just do not be penny wise and pound foolish. I do understand cashflow concerns. 

Ask the paint dealer what discount they might extend you (you will not get it if you do not ask), even if neither is running current 40 percent off sales. I think both SW and Ben Moore run some permanent coupon campaigns you can tap with an online search.


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## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

I would go with SW solid stain on this one! Good luck!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Wow, thank you for the input. I think I an going to go the stain route. I have never stained white before. I am a little nervous about that. I purchased a couple of bottles of stripper from HD. I think I will try that first unless you all have better/other ideas.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You did not mention stripper in your OP. What kind did you get at the box store in bottles and based on what recommendation? Not minimum wage orange apron I hope. What purpose is that to serve? Are you sure you need it? 

Any hints on the Restore packaging for overcoating it?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I only got the stripper when i decided to stain instead of painting. No recommendations. I just got some assuming that it would need to be done. The current stain is pretty dark. I assumed that it wouldneed to be removed. Not sure,I think it was the Behr brand or maybe Thompson. Not at home right now. I can check it a little later.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

If it is stain, I would just scrape/powerwash off anything peeling and sand any rough spots. You will not be able to strip it out of the grain anyhow. 

You shouldn't need to strip it unless the Restore left some sort of solid resin, but even then, the Woodscapes or Arborcoat acrylic solid stain should go right over it. You might have to scruff it up a bit if it is glossy? It may take a couple coats of solid stain to cover the dark color on theree now but the product is self-priming (not to be confused with paint and primer in one). 

If you have a wax based Thompson's product on there I may have disturbing news for you. That miserable stuff can be a real pain to get rid of and you will need to use a wax stripper (like you would use on a floor) to try and get it out of your way. Then make sure algae and mold did not take hold in or under it. Get rid of that.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Okay, nothing is peeling. So that is good news. I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing. So should I buy some sort of cleaner? And pressure wash?

The second deck may be the bad news...it has what I remember as the Thompson water seal. Not sure but something to that affect


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Okay, nothing is peeling. So that is good news. I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing. So should I buy some sort of cleaner? And pressure wash?

The second deck may be the bad news...it has what I remember as the Thompson water seal. Not sure but something to that affect. I believe it was done about the years ago. Any advice on that one?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Would we be able to use the airless sprayer with the woodScapes?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Okay, nothing is peeling. So that is good news. I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing. So should I buy some sort of cleaner? And pressure wash?
> 
> The second deck may be the bad news...it has what I remember as the Thompson water seal. Not sure but something to that affect. I believe it was done about the years ago. Any advice on that one?


Definitely want to clean what you have. Whether it requires pressure washing is up to you since we cannot see what you have. Obviously, do not use more pressure or water than you need and let it dry out before proceeding with staining. Use the appropriate deck wash. I personally think people go a little crazy with pressure washers when a wet brush/broom and hose would do as good or better job and with less potential damage. Those car wash brush set ups work well on railings. Not saying I would not reach for a pressure washer if the appropriate tool. Never atomize things like ammonia or bleach through a pressure washer!

I would try a gallon of Woodscapes or whatever to make sure it will work as you want. I think you will like it. You should not have problems moving it through your sprayer and I suspect you can thin it some per label instructions. Remember in addition to white and some factory colors you can have it tinted like paint. 

As mentioned Thompson's Water Seal is a liquid wax based product. The good news MAY be that you put it on long enough ago it has deteriorated to the point it is no more. The stuff usually only lasts a season or so. If water is still beading at all it means some of the wax remains and all you can try and do is strip it almost like you would a waxed floor and probably with similar solvents. You might want to hit a janitorial supply that sells such stuff cheaper than a box store. 

We are just talking solid staining railings and not the decking right? I don't think solid stains (or even porch or floor paints for that matter)---even if the labeling says they will work---a good idea for exposed deck surfaces.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Taking notes... 

Okay, I figured out what we used on the other deck. It was Behr. I have attached a picture


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Not that it matters but here is a pic of a portion of or deck. Sorry sun was coming up


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

This is the one that was done in the Behr


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Wow, I'm not sure what we are going to do with all of this decking that has to come up...you think someone would buy it?


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

Put it on CL someone will but it. I would also recommend the SW deck stain. I have used this on my deck for years. I stain mine a light gray and it's good for about 4 years before I have to recoat. All I do is wash it good and roll it on, couldn't be easier.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Wow, I'm not sure what we are going to do with all of this decking that has to come up...you think someone would buy it?


You must have gotten a great deal on Trex to be pulling it up and getting rid of it. You sure you want to do this? It doesn't look to be in such bad shape? Synthetic decking is not without its downsides you know.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I am going with the SW Woodscapes. They will have 30% off on the 1st. 

Unfortunately, it is taking longer than expected to get the deck clean. Grrrr We have about a 1/3 of the pool deck railing stripped. Damn I hate doing these things. That is the major reason I am going with the Trex. Please God dont let there be any issues with the Trex. Yes, we got a good deal. Unfortunately, it will not come with a warranty but we are willing to take the chance. 

I do have a question...the stripper lifted the wood fibers. Do I have to sand after or is there another step that will help smooth the wood back down?

That stuff is rough. I have a patch of skin gone on my wrist and a dot on my nose. LOL It ate my skin right off. 

Now just to confirm...the second deck (the one that was done last summer with deck restore) just needs a good cleaning and we can stain right over the restore stain?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You should sand the raised/checked grain. It will not compress back down.

As mentioned before, I do not know the Restore product well enough to suggest what it might be leaving behind. I would try Woodscapes on a small, clean and prepped section to see if you need to do anything more for adhesion.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Okay, we will test it.

Do I need to do a cleaner after the stripper?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Okay, we will test it.
> 
> Do I need to do a cleaner after the stripper?


Still do not know what stripper you used. What does the label say? Does it suggest neutralizing whatever reaction the stripper created?

"When in trouble or in doubt,
Run in circles scream and shout,
Then read the _______ label or manual!"


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

lol- truth.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)




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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Hehe, just read the rest of the label. Yes, i will need to use the cleaner to neutralize. Opps, i posted the wrong picture...


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)




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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Here are a couple in progress pictures. It did a good job lifting the old stain.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Nice set up, and it seems like the others are answering your questions, what I want to know is what is up with the behind you neighbor's siding? I know that some lenses can bend objects. Is that what's going on, or am I having flashbacks?


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

No kidding- the roof line and windows are straight..


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

It is the camera digitizing telephoto properties is my guess. I did not notice it until Joe spotted it. Check out the siding on the end of the house next door to the one directly in back!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Haha, that's weird. The picture on my phone isn't like that. Not sure what happened.

On a good note...we received a coupon in the mail this weekend for 30% off of woodscapes stain. Yay!

Although, we are beat from stripping yesterday. It really sucks!!! We have 1/3 left of the pool deck and we will be done with it. woohoo!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Well the pool deck is stripped and neutralized. We tried stripping a small test area on the deck near the house. Didn't remove it. It turns out that the stain we used is a solid acrylic stain. I contacted SW and they said to clean it with a mild soap and sand to scuff. The woodscapes should stain right over the to of it. I guess we are going to test a small area to see if it works. I really don't want to have to strip it also. If we do have to strip it, SW said to use a latex paint stripper. 

Grrr, a have a ahole of a (kiddie corner) neighbor...last night I was out working in my flower bed and this guy yells over to a neighbor two houses down from us that was staining his deck...He proceeds to tell him how nice his deck is looking with the new stain and then points over to our house and says...better than our neighbor over here that has their deck three different colors. 

Wow! Really! What a jerk!


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Even with Woodscapes, I would be hesitant to use a solid stain on a deck surface unless it is the only way.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Okay I am confused. You were the one who recommended Woodscapes. Are you saying to do something different now?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Just to recap...decking is being replaced with Trex. Railings are staying wood and we would like them white. What is the best product for the railings?

The pool deck railings are stripped to the wood. The house deck railings have a solid acrylic stain.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I thought you were using synthetic decking but I read your latest post to read you were stripping the deck and were told you could put Woodscapes over it. I thought you had changed your mind and meant the horizontal decking. Sorry. I don't think any solid stain products hold up very well if to be walked on, etc. 

"Well the pool deck is stripped and neutralized. We tried stripping a small test area on the deck near the house. Didn't remove it. It turns out that the stain we used is a solid acrylic stain. I contacted SW and they said to clean it with a mild soap and sand to scuff. The woodscapes should stain right over the to of it. I guess we are going to test a small area to see if it works. I really don't want to have to strip it also. If we do have to strip it, SW said to use a latex paint stripper."

Woodscapes (acrylic), if a solid stain is what you want for railings and all the non-horizontal deck surfaces, would still be my first choice recommendation. It should go over new or prepped painted surfaces nicely. Again I would use something other than a pure "white white" as it may look dingy up against the trex decking. You can get factory colors of Woodscapes or tint it like paint. 

Your neighbor sounds like a piece of work!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Awesome thank you! Woodscapes it is! I think I am going to sand the deck that has the solid acrylic stain. I might not be able to get all of it but a majority.

Should I use a medium grit and then a fine grit? 

Yeah he is a piece of work!

Oh yeah, I think the only white I saw was called Navajo white SW 3005


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I have a question about a pergola. Should I start another thread in woodworking?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Something like 80 grit should be alright for exterior railings and things. If you are careful you could go 60 to cut through the stain film a little faster but you risk gouging soft surfaces so that you would have to go over it with 80 anyhow.

Navajo white is almost a warm yellow beige. Sure it is what you want? What color is the trex going to be?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

80 grit. Got it.

hmm, I have only seen the color on my computer screen. Not sure what it looks like in person. 

We are going with spiced rum decking.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> 80 grit. Got it.
> 
> hmm, I have only seen the color on my computer screen. Not sure what it looks like in person.
> 
> We are going with spiced rum decking.


I have a nice, color corrected monitor set to the standard viewing temp for color of 6500K. Even I have trouble judging whites and off whites online so hold off your selection until you get to the store. Navajo White may be fine. Perhaps they do not have the tint bases for other brighter whites in the stain. I don't know. Navajo White is a fairly common factory white in just about all paint company lines.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Sounds great, I will take a piece of the decking with me. We well see what options they have. 

Any knowledge on pergolas?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Sounds great, I will take a piece of the decking with me. We well see what options they have.
> 
> Any knowledge on pergolas?


Staining/finishing them? Or are you planning to add one or more? You might start a new thread in the landscaping section if looking for help on design and construction. I have certainly designed and built a few more than most and other structures. There are some nice, ready to assemble pergola and gazebo kits out there too. Of course you can buy plans too so you don't have to start from scratch.

I specified one from this company a few years ago for a client. Looks great. There are certainly other companies too. 

http://www.gazebocreations.com/spl/structurecategory/pergolas/4?gclid=CNTy5YawhLcCFcU7MgodqGQAQg


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

We would like to add one. Haven't decided on what kind or: pvc/vinyl or wood. I think it would be cheaper to build one from scratch versus kit. The one at Menards was $2,000.00. Yikes.

I think my main question would be how to attach it. It has to be self-standing. But do we pour footings or attach it to the joists?


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

sdsester said:


> I thought you were using synthetic decking but I read your latest post to read you were stripping the deck and were told you could put Woodscapes over it. I thought you had changed your mind and meant the horizontal decking. Sorry. I don't think any solid stain products hold up very well if to be walked on, etc.
> 
> You can get factory colors of Woodscapes or tint it like paint.


Just for information purposes my deck is stained with Woodscapes and holds up just fine to foot traffic. I have the whole deck and all the railings done with Woodscapes, in a light gray and it lasts about 3-4 years before I need to recoat it. 


Earl


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Thank you


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Dork Fish said:


> We would like to add one. Haven't decided on what kind or: pvc/vinyl or wood. I think it would be cheaper to build one from scratch versus kit. The one at Menards was $2,000.00. Yikes.
> 
> I think my main question would be how to attach it. It has to be self-standing. But do we pour footings or attach it to the joists?


 
Start another thread somewhere appropriate, we are painters:whistling2:


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Got it, sorry


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

I thought there was a lot of problems with Trex. You better check. I find it hard to believe that you are going with a pricey synthetic deck material, and then skimping on the Paint/Stain. That dog don't hunt.


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

I never went with Trex when I built my house because many of my neighbors have it and they are constantly fighting mildew stains with it. I decided to just go with pressure treated wood and color stain it. Mine cleans up great, with little effort and looks good enough for me. I am very happy I didn't go with synthetic.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Dork Fish said:


> I would have never guessed the solid white stain would have covered the existing.


Well that is the advantage of using stain to begin with. You can keep going over it without stripping the last. However, white solid stain will never look quite the same as a paint with sheen.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

jagans said:


> I thought there was a lot of problems with Trex. You better check. I find it hard to believe that you are going with a pricey synthetic deck material, and then skimping on the Paint/Stain. That dog don't hunt.


It has its fair share of problems. I am putting most of my money into the Trex so funds were a little short for the stain but that issue has been taken care of. We have decided to go with SW. So I don't consider that skimping.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

retfr8flyr said:


> I never went with Trex when I built my house because many of my neighbors have it and they are constantly fighting mildew stains with it. I decided to just go with pressure treated wood and color stain it. Mine cleans up great, with little effort and looks good enough for me. I am very happy I didn't go with synthetic.


Well we have A LOT of wood and as a diy'er it is hard pay the amount of money that a professional wants to stain them. When we do it ourselves, it always kicks our butts. So that is why we decided to go with the trex. I an keeping my fingers crossed and hoping it works out for us.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

jeffnc said:


> Well that is the advantage of using stain to begin with. You can keep going over it without stripping the last. However, white solid stain will never look quite the same as a paint with sheen.


Well this will be my first experience with white stain. If we decide that we like the trex, then we might start replacing railing a little at a time.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Okay here are a few pictures that i took this morning. I tired to get as much deck in the picture as possible. Forgive the mess!


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

Well you have about 3 time as much decking as most setups and I can see that the Trex will cost a small fortune. With your layout I don't think you will have much of a mildew problem. It looks like your decking is exposed to the sun most of the time so you should be good. I think the stain will do a good job on the railings and it's fairly difficult, as well as costly, to replace the railings with synthetic. 

When you paint the railings, those little mini rollers work great http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-6...102-11-6/202097477?N=aqpy#product_description


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah, it is a lot of work. We are going to put a pergola 10 x 10 ? on the deck by the house. Hopefully that wont cause any issues, It just gets so hot out there we really can't enjoy it. Our last patio set was destroyed by the wind.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Question: How do I know how much sanding is enough? 

Here are a few pics of before and after sanding.


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

That looks good, all you need to really to do is knock down any pealing areas that would give someone a splinter. The stain adheres well to the wood and is fairly thick. It will fill in the smaller cracks very well and get down in the larger ones enough to offer some protection from them getting any bigger. Plan on 2 coats for good coverage. When I first put it on my deck, I put 3 coats on the floor section. It holds up so well that now I just use 2 coats when I do it.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

If you have many of those large fractures and splits like I see in your sanded post? And just what you need is more work? I would think about filling them with a quality exterior caulk and sanding the excess before proceeding here. Especially since you are putting a solid color over all. Make sure the caulk is paintable.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I was going to ask about that. I was going to ask if I could use wood filler. So you think caulk instead?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> I was going to ask about that. I was going to ask if I could use wood filler. So you think caulk instead?


Either. Or you could use Abatron's epoxy putty or something similar. Same concept. 

Caulk, if you buy a real and decent gun, and chase the flow from the tube with a drywall knife would probably be faster? And you are solid staining over it anyhow? 

Again, make sure you buy external, PAINTABLE caulk (or whatever product) or you will be sorry. Some silicone in it is alright but pure silicone is for certain parts of female anatomy if they are not happy with themselves and even then you hear too many stories of having to carve it out. Pure silicone=evil. I still argue it is a sealant and not a caulk or filler and should not be marketed as such.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

sdsester said:


> Either. Or you could use Abatron's epoxy putty or something similar. Same concept.
> 
> Caulk, if you buy a real and decent gun, and chase the flow from the tube with a drywall knife would probably be faster? And you are solid staining over it anyhow?
> 
> Again, make sure you buy external, PAINTABLE caulk (or whatever product) or you will be sorry. Some silicone in it is alright but pure silicone is for certain parts of female anatomy if they are not happy with themselves and even then you hear too many stories of having to carve it out. Pure silicone=evil. I still argue it is a sealant and not a caulk or filler and should not be marketed as such.


 
external?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Haha, I caught myself saying the same thing today


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

sdsester said:


> Pure silicone=evil. I still argue it is a sealant and not a caulk or filler and should not be marketed as such.


Do you not like silicone even for bathrooms and showers? Or do you consider that a sealer application.


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## 7.62 (Jul 20, 2011)

I haven't read the responses here, but I have had excellent results PRIMING the wood first and then using Cabot acrylic solid stain. Can be tinted to any color. Wood has got to be 100% dry and clean before both steps!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Well we are almost done. I ran out of wood filler. 32oz. yikes. I am going to buy another tub. Once that is done then we will have to sand that down. We knocked down most of the raised wood fibers with sanding yesterday. Just a little left. phew, we are almost there!!!!

Question about the woodscapes... Is it okay to spray it on and then backbrush? or should I just brush or roll it on?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You can spray it on and backbrush with no problems. But you will get better coverage with a nice nap min-roller and brush for the railings. And by the time you mask off everything you do not want to spray? And factor in the waste spraying open railings? And you deal with your nasty neighbor suing you for overspray on his car? I am not sure where you would save either time or money.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Dork Fish said:


> Is it okay to spray it on and then backbrush?


Technically, that's a great way to apply for your deck. Not so good for waste, and everything surrounding your deck. Application time is very fast. Cleanup time is very slow. Tradeoffs.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Hmmm, I think I will skip the sprayer.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Dork Fish said:


> Well we are almost done. I ran out of wood filler. 32oz. yikes. I am going to buy another tub. Once that is done then we will have to sand that down. We knocked down most of the raised wood fibers with sanding yesterday. Just a little left. phew, we are almost there!!!!
> 
> Question about the woodscapes... Is it okay to spray it on and then backbrush? or should I just brush or roll it on?


 I spray pickets all the time. The trick ( one trick anyway) is to use a big price of card board to catch overspray. And to use a small tip. You can actually get more paint/stain on this way than just rolling. 
I'm not sure it's something that a HO would find doable right away. I'm training my apprentice on spraying pickets next week.( fingers crossed) I think she will pick it up quick. 
Here is a pic in action. This is a one coat solid stain job. I always back roll. These type of pickets are very hard to do without spraying. Takes at least twice as long.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Oh wow, that is a good idea. Do you do it by yourself?


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Yes, I use a couple nails tacked in just barely to hold the cardboard in place. Or fold it over the top and lay a rock or board on it. Do one side, switch cardboard do other side.
I learned it as an apprentice. Think its a fairly common technique, used to spray lattice too.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Well okay then, maybe I will consider the sprayer. What size tip for the woodscapes?

Roller or pad for back brushing?

Realistically, how far does the over spray reach? I looked at some videos and they have cars parked right next to where they are spraying. They were also using the card board method.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Realistically, how far does the over spray reach?


In the duldrums (sailing term despised for glass like seas and no wind) or gusts blowing at 30-80 knots. 

I would definitely move or mask anything that might be hit. If there is any chance overspray would hit the car of a neighbor like yours, I would at least warn him and encourage him to move his vehicles.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Luckily for me...his cars are on the other side of his house (from where we will be spraying) so I think we are okay.

But I am not opposed to putting up some visqueen where its needed.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Luckily for me...his cars are on the other side of his house (from where we will be spraying) so I think we are okay.
> 
> But I am not opposed to putting up some visqueen where its needed.


Then error on the side of caution when spraying to the extent you can afford to do so.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Good point...what is an close percentage of what to expect to waste?

I was going to purchase a 5 gallon bucket. If it would require more than that, I wouldn't consider spraying.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Dork Fish said:


> Good point...what is an close percentage of what to expect to waste?
> 
> I was going to purchase a 5 gallon bucket. If it would require more than that, I wouldn't consider spraying.


The answer to that is going to depend on a lot of things. For me its insignificant, compared to the labor saved. Maybe 10% waste at most? But I have practiced a lot. 
use a small tip, a good size for the major brands of sprayer is 211-213. Use low pressure on the sprayer. Try to spray accurately. You don't have to paint right to the edges of every board with the Sprayer because you will be back rolling. 
I think a good guess would be how much stain you used last time + 1 gallon.


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

For what it's worth, I sprayed my deck the first time and it just wasn't worth the effort. I have rolled it with 9 inch for the flooring, mini rollers and brush for everything else, every since. The Woodscapes goes on so nicely it isn't worth the time to mask everything. For my deck I needed to mask off the brick walls and the siding on the sun room. The cardboard trick works ok for slats but you can't use it for walls.

I used almost 4 gallons when I sprayed it and I use a little sell than 2 gallons to roll everything with 2 coats.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

The more I think about it. The more hesitant I am to lead you in the direction of spraying. A spray professional is one thing, it can be the best method by far. But unless you have at least some experience with a sprayer, it seems likely to be more trouble than its worth. 
Mini rollers are a lot faster than a brush. Maybe try that.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I don't have a lot to mask. So that shouldn't be a problem. 

Unfortunately, the weather has not been cooperating. I still have to finish filling cracks and sanding. Looks like more rain today


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

You are going to regret spraying this job.
That is my prediction


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Another question: after we have sanded, is it safe to just blow off the deck real good or should a spray it down with water hose?


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Dork Fish said:


> Another question: after we have sanded, is it safe to just blow off the deck real good or should a spray it down with water hose?


 We almost always wash before sanding, then use an electric blower to remove the dust. Helps to use a broom in conjunction with the blower to make sure you get all the dust out of the cracks. 
I hate to get one wet again after sanding, it slows the process down and I have a feeling its not great for the surface to go through the drying process again right before staining.
A water hose wash likely wouldn't do a great job of removing dust anyway.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

We are about half way through our first coat (spraying). It is going great!

Question: do you also back brush the second coat?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Question: do you also back brush the second coat?


Yes! Absolutely!:yes:


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Thank you


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

A little preview


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

Looking good!! What color is that, looks almost like a light gray?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Bright white I believe. Unfortunately, going back to get more. Already went through 5 gallons :s


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Dork Fish said:


> Bright white I believe. Unfortunately, going back to get more. Already went through 5 gallons :s


 
You would have used maybe a gallon brushing it. So after you are done buying all this paint, how much have you saved? Just curious.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Thought I mentioned it but bright white, or white white, can be fairly unforgiving. 

Railing looks nice though. I assume other than using more than expected---and we warned you about spraying---the Woodscapes itself is working out alright?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yes, I am very pleased so far with the woodscapes. It is going on very nicely. You know with the time we are saving with spraying, I don't mind paying the extra for paint.

3 1/2 (32oz) containers of wood filler later. It is looking good.

Question: we really like the way the unbrushed second coat looks on the area between the spindles. Is it okay not to brush that area?

Oh yeah: it was (extra white)


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Dork Fish said:


> Question: we really like the way the unbrushed second coat looks on the area between the spindles. Is it okay not to brush that area?


You mean the clouds in one picture or the lawn or deck showing between them in the others? :laughing: 

I am not sure I understand what you are talking about but to get an even stain film distribution you should backroll or backbrush everything.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

LOL, this area...

You can see the brush strokes even on the second coat.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Grrrr, we checked the forecast multiple times. No rain until Friday. This came out of nowhere...


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Ugh,


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Sd is right about back brushing for uniformity. But, if you are getting a good first coat, and brushing full all the knot holes, rough spots,defects in the wood, with the first coat; then there is no real reason( in terms of coating integrity ) that you have to back brush the second Coat. 

Back brushing is about getting a uniform coat. It's also important on wood because it helps work the material into the wood, and promote a good bond. First coat is a must, second coat not so much. 
If you are happy with the way it looks on the second coat not brushing, it won't hurt it not to, as long as your getting an even coat with the sprayer.
I'm glad this is working out for you. Spraying is faster and (to me) a lot easier.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Sounds great!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

We are done! (with the railings) Woohoo.

I am going to sand the facia boards this weekend. I decided to stain them to match the decking. If I like it, then I will hold off on wrapping it with Trex.

Then we should be able to dig footings, get the poles set and lay the decking.

Then it is on to the next project...the pergola!

Thank you to everyone for all of your help!


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Hopefully this will cause your crazed neighbor to STHU! Looks great. I think the facia looks to be in great shape and solid staining it to match the new decking should look really nice.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah, right !?!? But....technically, it will still be three different colors. LOL

Thank you! I did buy some woodscapes and had it tinted to match the Trex for the decking. Hopefully, I can get to that this weekend.

Slowly, but surely!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Wow, now that I can see the scope of this project, I can see why you wanted to spray it.:laughing:


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Wow, well the person selling us the Trex has reneged on the deal. So now I'm left scratching my head...

UGHHHHHHH, I JUST WANT TO EFFING SCREAM!!!!!!!


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Bummer.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Maybe Memorial Day Sales will help some? Have you priced Trex through a real building supplier or online?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah, they were about $75.00 a board. We were getting for $23.00 a board. We cannot go any higher than that.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Well it looks like we may be staining the decking now...ugh.

What should I expect out of the woodscapes for the decking?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I am not wild about the idea of putting a solid stain on a horizontal surface but others think with proper prep you will get the mileage out of it you would from a semi-solid or semi-transparent. As mentioned in other posts, you can get decent looking outdoor area rugs that would provide some protection from excess foot traffic. You do have the water and chemicals from the pool to contend with. 

Seems like you may not have an option. Again, I don't think you will find a better product than Acrylic Woodscapes to try for this. I would not spray it on the deck though.

You might look at composite bamboo decking but I doubt it will come in at the price you were counting on. Beautiful stuff though. On sale for $2.69 or so a linear foot. 

And by the way, you had a price per board of $75? What is a board? You don't mean a board foot do you?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah, it sucks because now all I can do is clean it well. I can't strip it due to risking the railing.

I would either brush or roll it.

That was for a 20 ft board.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I specified a bamboo composite deck for a client in a caramel color some years ago. It is holding up really well. It was from a different company but calibamboo is fairly reputable.

http://www.calibamboo.com/bamboodecking.html

You might start a new thread in the construction section to see if someone knows of some online decking sources. You certainly owe nothing to your box stores. They give nothing back to your community.

I know they are really hard to find these days but you should have captured a fat lady and made sure she could sing earlier on?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Interesting...I just don't like the colors


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Don't even think about Behr or you will be sorry!

"- Behr Premium Deck Stain gets our lowest score to date of all deck stains tested. The initial appearance, application and peeling makes Behr Decking Stain a poor choice for any exterior wood restoration project.


Buyer Beware!"

http://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deck-stain-review/

Did a little deeper search for composite decking (not just bamboo) and found sales for materials at $1.79lf if that helps. That would be $36 or so for $20 feet?


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

No, not doing behr. I already had woodscapes stain tinted to match the Trex and all of the facia boards are stained in the new color. Worst case scenario we would continue the facia color up to the decking.

I will see what I can find in other composites.

I just don't think we are going to find anything close to what we were going to pay. 20 ft board at $23.00 ($1.15 ft) It looks like everything is double that. Which will not work for us.


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

Just go with your tinted Wodscapes for the whole deck. Don't spray it, just roll it on. I think you will be more then happy with it.


Earl


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Well the guy called me and the Trex is now in my garage. Woohoo. 
Going on vacation, hopefully able to start this in a few weeks.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Good for you. Send us some finished pics


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

I sure will!


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Ugh....this is kicking my butt!


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I bet! That looks like a lot of work. 

When its over you will have a nice, low maintaince deck floor. Some reviews say Trex isn't all its cracked up to be, but in my exp it does pretty good over time. It may fade a little, but it cleans easily, and doesn't tend to crack or warp.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah, the boards are screwed down and have deck restore painted over them. So backing out the screws are not an option 

I'm keeping my fingers crossed with the Trex


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Dork Fish said:


> Yeah, the boards are screwed down and have deck restore painted over them


 Do you mean the thick rubbery stuff Like the Rustolem Deck Restore? 
I will be using it soon and would be curious how it held up....not very well I assume or you wouldn't be replacing it


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah, it is called deck restore by Syntax. Oh, it held up well. Lol

Just trying to go a little more maintenance free with the trex


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Synta


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Dork Fish said:


> Synta


i.e. Rustoleum


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

..


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Well we have one deck complete!


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

That looks really nice! I like the two tone deck boards. And the white is a nice contrast.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Thank you! I thought it turned out nice


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## retfr8flyr (Mar 17, 2013)

Congrats!! That really looks great, well done.


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## Dork Fish (Apr 26, 2013)

Thank you!


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