# How to create flat surface on side of round pole



## Silkcityflorida (Nov 29, 2011)

I have a dock. The supports are round pilings (think telephone pole). I want to mount low voltage surface lights of the type seen in this link: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
on the side of each piling to provide subdued lighting on the dock surface. I want them to be surface mounted so they will stick out as little as possible and will not impede activity near the pilings.

The lights in the link are made to be mounted on a flat surface (e.g. a square post). What is the best way to create a flat surface on the side of a round dock piling? I have thought of using a hole saw, but that will only define the circle. I would then have to chisel out the needed flat surface, which would be very time consuming. 

Is there a tool that will let me do this more efficiently? In my mind I picture a circular sander of the proper diameter that you hold against the side of the piling until you get a flattened circle, but my impression is that might also be quite time consuming.

As an alternative, does anyone know of low voltage surface mounted lights that are designed to be mounted on the side of a rounded pole?


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

"square the corners" 
(frame something that a wall material can be attached to)


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

just use a circular saw, set at 3/4 depth or whatever you need? run it on top and bottom, then knock it off with a wood chisel.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

power planer, belt sander.


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## abracaboom (Dec 27, 2011)

Nothing will be less time consuming than a saw and a chisel (or, better yet, a slick), provided the chisel is sharp.

Our forum _router enthusiasts_ would find preferable to build a custom jig and routering out the notch (while deafening themselves and eating sawdust) than sharpening a chisel, but that's them.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Bear in mind that if this light beam comes out the bottom of the fixture, you may create a two or three foot shadow around the base of the pole by insetting the fixture into a "notched" round pole.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Willie T said:


> Bear in mind that if this light beam comes out the bottom of the fixture, you may create a two or three foot shadow around the base of the pole by insetting the fixture into a "notched" round pole.


It could be accomplished successfully by tapering the coping our gradually toward the dock surface. That will take much more chiseling and sanding though...

Have you considered lagging a piece of 2x or something similar to the pole? Make it round to match the light and recess the lags so the light fixture covers it? You could notch the pole face to recess the 2x so the light fixture is flush with the pole and the 2x allows for a flat mounting place


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## metal (Sep 8, 2011)

Personally, I'd square around the corners. That should give you a pretty flat surface for that circuit board.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Better solution....bolt a couple of stainless steel L pieces to it.

Get two pieces of stainless L stock....say 2x2x1/8" and what ever the width of the box is.

Use a circular saw to cut a notch in the post where the metal could slip in.

Drill a hole through the L into the post....I would use a 1/4" lag bolt 4" long....make sure it's galvanized.

Bolt the box to the brackets. 

This way your not making a lot of changes to the post which may be a blessing later.

You could use regular steel...but I would primer and paint....but be prepaired for rust in a few years.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> Is there a tool that will let me do this more efficiently? In my mind I picture a circular sander of the proper diameter that you hold against the side of the piling until you get a flattened circle, but my impression is that might also be quite time consuming.


Ayuh,.... A Chainsaw,....

You can quickly, 'n easily carve a flat spot in a round wood pole...
And, cope off the bottom lip...


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## EvilNCarnate (Jan 27, 2011)

Hole saw bit of equal or similar size and a chisel/hammer would make this a quick issue. I would drill the hole to recess them into, use the chisel to break out the round chunk of wood. Then chip a small groove in the side edge sloping slightly upward so any water doesnt drain into the hole by following the cord. Maybe a small grove in the bottom so if any moisture does end up in your hole it wont cause rot, splitting,swelling, etc.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

The easy way..... three pieces of plywood. No problem with the wiring either. No place to retain water. Easily replaceable. Won't ruin the pole for later if you want to take the lights off. Mounts with a few simple screws in the side pieces.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Willie T said:


> The easy way..... three pieces of plywood. No problem with the wiring either. No place to retain water. Easily replaceable. Won't ruin the pole for later if you want to take the lights off. Mounts with a few simple screws in the side pieces.


Even easier is just the one piece of plywood...really no need for the side pieces...


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Well, shoot.... just screw the fixture to the pole.


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## Silkcityflorida (Nov 29, 2011)

*Will Let You Know*

Thanks for all the suggestions. I have a 4 foot piece of piling (scrap) and will try out all of the suggestions over the next couple of days and will post the method I settled on.


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## Silkcityflorida (Nov 29, 2011)

*Final Solution*

I chose to use a circular saw slightly larger than my round lights. I cut the hole so it was recessed all the way around, then chiseled out the center so it was nearly flat. The I used a Dremel with a high speed cutting blade to route out a groove from the base of the round hole down to the deck so I could recess the wire. 

I am now looking for a way to hide the wire. I have thought of caulking, but may try using some copper colored aluminum flashing instead cut into a 1-inch wide strip and tacked into place. No need to paint and it should withstand the weather.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Conduit would have been alot easier than routing out a channel and covering with metal...


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