# Drywall Installation-Finishing-Texturing tips



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

I thought I would share some tips and info on drywall. Ive been in the trade for over 20 years. I would be happy to answer any questions on the process. Although I don't know all of the answers , I know some of the other pro's on here most likely will.

First check out these links: 

*Drywall how to guide* 
&
*Levels of drywall finishing*


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

you know what problem i have with drywall.. is application of mud over tape. first i put some mud on the seam, maybe 1/8" thick and wider than the tape. then i press the tape in and run a dry spatula over the tape so it presses into the mud and no wrinkles. 

all seems good. 

then, when it drys i use 12" spatula and spread on some mud and i find that the tape bubbles up! you can press on the bubbles and its like it no longer is sticking to the drywall, where just 5minutes ago it was! 

so i go to sticky mesh tape instead.. 

what was i doing wrong? 

Knucklez


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## skizsam (Feb 17, 2009)

Knucklez said:


> you know what problem i have with drywall.. is application of mud over tape. first i put some mud on the seam, maybe 1/8" thick and wider than the tape. then i press the tape in and run a dry spatula over the tape so it presses into the mud and no wrinkles.
> 
> all seems good.
> 
> ...


 
I use the sticky yellow mesh tape purchased at lowes. I find that to be the best


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

Knucklez said:


> you know what problem i have with drywall.. is application of mud over tape. first i put some mud on the seam, maybe 1/8" thick and wider than the tape. then i press the tape in and run a dry spatula over the tape so it presses into the mud and no wrinkles.
> 
> all seems good.
> 
> ...


How long are you waiting for the "next" coat? If it's really dry, then it will not bubble up. It could be that your're pressing on the taping knife too hard and pushing the mud out from under it. Then when you put the next coat on, the moisture is allowing it to lift from the drywall.

Have you tried using a durabond for the taping coat? It sets up much like concrete rather than drying like premixed compound. Since I've made the switch...I would never go back to pre-mixed...even for the top coat....use the easy sand dry, mix what you want/need. For small areas and patches, I love the 20 minute mud.


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

i wait atleast 24 hrs before next coat.

but the original coat, i.e. mud between wall & tape, i press the tape down HARD into the mud. maybe yes.. i am squishing out all the mud & then moisture lifts the tape on 2nd coat. 

your theory seems to match my experience. could be true. i'll keep this in mind for next time (though my wife is loosing patience with my lack of tape/mud skillz) :thumbsup:

Knucklez


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

Years ago when I just started messing with this stuff...I found that I over-worked the mud, and would end up with a bigger mess than when I started. Work on your techniques, the key is moderation...don't push too hard...but "hard enough", don't use mud too thin..."but thin enough"...don't over sand...but "sand just enough". Time and experience will provide you with the "enough" parameters...

Everyone has their techniques that work...and no one can make you into a drywall finisher. You have to put in the hours or find yourself a really good mentor...it's not rocket science...but it does require a touch. Hang in there...it'll come to ya...but it will take time....


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

Any good tips on taping butt sections?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

If your tape bubbles after 24 hrs. of drying, you're not getting enough mud under the tape - a nice even coat. There are voids in there. If you do use mesh (flats only, always paper in the corners) use a setting type compound for AT LEAST the first coat. The EZ sand products available at the big boxes are fine. And a couple of thin coats over the tape are better than trying to pile the mud on to cover with one coat....


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## skeeter 152 (Nov 17, 2008)

anyone use auto taping tools?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

For DIYer's??


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

mark942 said:


> Any good tips on taping butt sections?


 
Mark, When hand taping on my butt joints, I use fiber tape. 2nd, use a 6" knife and durabond (Place mud about 5"'s wide). let dry. 3rd,use a 12" knife each side of previous coat w/all purpose joint compound (place mud 11"'s wide on each side of seam). Let dry. 4th, sand center and edges lightly. 5th, check for flatness w/ 12" knife by placing horizontally to the seam. 6th, add mud as need for flatness.:thumbsup:


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Mark, When hand taping on my butt joints, I use fiber tape. 2nd, use a 6" knife and durabond (Place mud about 5"'s wide). let dry. 3rd,use a 12" knife each side of previous coat w/all purpose joint compound (place mud 11"'s wide on each side of seam). Let dry. 4th, sand center and edges lightly. 5th, check for flatness w/ 12" knife by placing horizontally to the seam. 6th, add mud as need for flatness.:thumbsup:




Thank you Sir mixalot for reaffirming that it just takes a bit more time to do. I have to admit to having a bit of a bulge at that particular seam. I have even gone as far as beveling the edges with a grader to help this problem. But it all boils down to 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,steps, and maybe 8 in my case. Thanks once again.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

RippySkippy said:


> Years ago when I just started messing with this stuff...I found that I over-worked the mud, and would end up with a bigger mess than when I started. Work on your techniques, the key is moderation...don't push too hard...but "hard enough", don't use mud too thin..."but thin enough"...don't over sand...but "sand just enough". Time and experience will provide you with the "enough" parameters...
> 
> Everyone has their techniques that work...and no one can make you into a drywall finisher. You have to put in the hours or find yourself a really good mentor...it's not rocket science...but it does require a touch. Hang in there...it'll come to ya...but it will take time....


The old timers had an expression I learned more than 45 years ago... "Work it long, work it wrong".


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

gtglobe said:


> Useful Links.Thanks for sharing


Glad to be able to help.:thumbsup:


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## HABSFAN2006 (Feb 25, 2009)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Glad to be able to help.:thumbsup:


 
Question for ya... what is the advantage of placing mud in a straight line covering all screws in that specific grid, as opposed to two or three different patches of mud? I noticed some people do this..
is it to trick the eye and eliminate the "patch look" of different mud locations? Seems like more mud than is needed... 
also, is it better to have them vertical up/down on a wall application?
I have successfully done the patch methode before & primed/painted with good results...


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

HABSFAN2006 said:


> Question for ya... what is the advantage of placing mud in a straight line covering all screws in that specific grid, as opposed to two or three different patches of mud? I noticed some people do this..
> is it to trick the eye and eliminate the "patch look" of different mud locations? Seems like more mud than is needed... Speed. It's one motion for multple fasteners. Instead of one motion for each fastener. Which turns into alot of time saved on large job.
> also, is it better to have them vertical up/down on a wall application? I think vertical is more of a natural motion.
> I have successfully done the patch methode before & primed/painted with good results... Both way's are fine.


Hope this helps. :thumbup1:


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## HABSFAN2006 (Feb 25, 2009)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Hope this helps. :thumbup1:


great, thanks! I can imagine you could save some time for sure.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yep, say if you're using screws spaced every 8" or so it's much faster to "swipe" them vertically. If you're gluing and nailing with one set of nails in the field, it's easier to just spot the individual set than "swipe" across several studs horizontally.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

HABSFAN2006 said:


> great, thanks! I can imagine you could save some time for sure.


And saving time = *$$$$$$$$$ :thumbup:*


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## HABSFAN2006 (Feb 25, 2009)

Although I am only a diy'er, I have worked on 4 basement projects and gaining much skill / experience with drywall and pulling joints, but I always like to work like the pro's work.. use the tools, materials, they use, and methods they use... I know the guys that did my home at construction did not use a corner trowel, and insisted on applying mud to one side at a time in corners to allow faster drying and finish the next day.
I am not a fan of corner trowels as they are not wide enough for finishing coats anyways.
Do you guys use them?


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## gregezzell (Jun 29, 2009)

I'm installing a large sheetrock ceiling and was wondering if I should cut Vs in the end of the sheetrock for butt joints before I apply mud and tape? Any words of wisdom?


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## HABSFAN2006 (Feb 25, 2009)

gregezzell said:


> I'm installing a large sheetrock ceiling and was wondering if I should cut Vs in the end of the sheetrock for butt joints before I apply mud and tape? Any words of wisdom?


No weld prep. required, :no:
just butt up, and use as is. the proper amount of screws ensures no movement/no cracks.


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## riftsawn (Jul 6, 2009)

How flat is flat enough when it comes to residential drywall finishing? I know that is probably a bit of an ambiguous question dependent on level of finish texture etc.. But for example with a orange peel or knockdown texture is 1/8 of variation over 6 feet for example going to be noticeable to an average person, what about 4 or 2 feet?


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## HABSFAN2006 (Feb 25, 2009)

riftsawn said:


> How flat is flat enough when it comes to residential drywall finishing? I know that is probably a bit of an ambiguous question dependent on level of finish texture etc.. But for example with a orange peel or knockdown texture is 1/8 of variation over 6 feet for example going to be noticeable to an average person, what about 4 or 2 feet?


It will not be visible to most... and surely should not be measured... some say use a 10" knife and no light should be seen at any point when slide across the joint. Then again, what might be acceptable for some, might not be for others.... I would say have at it, throw yourself into it, with small coats. It is better to apply 3, or 4, or 5 small coats, then one or two big coats. You can always add very easily..... It becomes a pain to remove,

have fun!


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

HABSFAN2006 said:


> Although I am only a diy'er, I have worked on 4 basement projects and gaining much skill / experience with drywall and pulling joints, but I always like to work like the pro's work.. use the tools, materials, they use, and methods they use... I know the guys that did my home at construction did not use a corner trowel, and insisted on applying mud to one side at a time in corners to allow faster drying and finish the next day.
> I am not a fan of corner trowels as they are not wide enough for finishing coats anyways.
> Do you guys use them?


A corner trowel can be tricky to use probably not recommended for a DIYER as it takes awhile to get he hang of them. however if they are mastered they can work very well and save time by coating both sides at the same time you can touch up both sides the next day if need be. you only really need to coat angles 4 to 5 inches wide when coating with hand type tools. these corner trowels can also create more work if you dont know what to look for when using them. a DIYER i recomend a 5 inch knife and do 1 side at a time..


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

gregezzell said:


> I'm installing a large sheetrock ceiling and was wondering if I should cut Vs in the end of the sheetrock for butt joints before I apply mud and tape? Any words of wisdom?


 
i myself find that by the time drywall is delivered and hung it gets beat up alot espessially on the edges. i always take a knife and cut small vees on the ends" buttjoints" just to cut off any loose paper and then i prefill with setting muds prior to taping ,this repairs any damage that was casued by handling and it also makes the seems stronger in the end. not neccesarily needed but its a good insurance against blisters etc. alot of times stocking drywall in basements and other hard to access areas puts alot of damage on the rock because it gets draged scraped etc. a visual inspection should tell you if any extra measures need to be taken before taping. :thumbsup:


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

HABSFAN2006, I took some pics w/ my cell phone of the corner tool in action. I think the corners turn out much better with it than the mud one side at a time method.:thumbsup:


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## garyweisman (Jul 11, 2009)

*seasonal house*

I am installing new drywall in a seasonal house. I am hoping to find a solution to the problem of drywall tape coming of the walls in a small house that is left unheated in upstate ny (lows of 20 below). is a setting compound the way to go, or mixing plaster of paris in with the joint compound?


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## HABSFAN2006 (Feb 25, 2009)

Sir MixAlot said:


> HABSFAN2006, I took some pics w/ my cell phone of the corner tool in action. I think the corners turn out much better with it than the mud one side at a time method.:thumbsup:


 
Thanks for the pics, and I do hope there is enough mud under and over to permanently hold that paper in! But I generaly am not pressed for time, so I will ad a bit mroe than that, also, I would use a 5 or 6" nife, so not as long as that 10". What i meant was mostly finishing coats. Pros might get away with using on three coats... but my second and third coat always go pas the 3" of a corner trowel... on the upsides, I am content with my finished corners... it's a great tool though.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

HABSFAN2006 said:


> I do hope there is enough mud under and over to permanently hold that paper in! But I generaly am not pressed for time, so I will ad a bit mroe than that, also, I would use a 5 or 6" nife, so not as long as that 10". What i meant was mostly finishing coats. Pros might get away with using on three coats... but my second and third coat always go pas the 3" of a corner trowel... on the upsides, I am content with my finished corners... it's a great tool though.


Oh there is plenty of mud there to bed the tape. The pic was taken before the mud was ran out with the corner tool. 
Let's see some of your pics.:whistling2:


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