# Bathroom Ceiling and Walls. Drywall ok?



## inspects (Sep 4, 2006)

I would use green board instead of trying to save a few cents.


----------



## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

atilla137 said:


> I have a basement bathroom which measures 10' * 11'. I have installed an exhaust fan which is rated at 150 CFM and has a 6" duct. The fan is vented outside and has a very short run (less than 4'). I will be using cement board around the tub and shower. Can I use regular drywall for the ceiling and walls? I was hoping that using a bigger exhaust fan than required would help me avoid any moisture problems.:thumbsup:


Yep green board. Its called green board because of its green appearance. Moisture resistant drywall. Once you get it up and your ready for paint. Go with zineers bulls eye 123 primer and Zineers perma white paint. You will be good to go.:thumbsup:


----------



## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Dont use regular drywall in a bathroom....these days products are designed specifically for this situation and are not much more expensive...maybe a buck and half more a sheet....at the depot near us they sell Dans Armor by Dupont....its a paperless drywall...I used it in my bathroom remodel. Seems like good stuff....greenboard would be fine too...


----------



## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

We ue total green rock in bath rooms, unless the room is very large, in which case we just extend the green out a sheet or so past the high moisture areas. Be sure to use extra fasteners on the ceiling, because the green board is less stiff than regular dw and sags easier on the overhead. It is actually not to be used on overhead installations according to the manufacturers specs, but is commonly used here without any problems. In a basement bath, I'd definately use all green. Look into using a humidastat instead of a regular switch to control the fan, it's a switch tha senses the humidity and will keep the fan running until the moisture falls to the preset level. They cost more of course, but gaurantee that the fan will run when humidity is present, unlike most fans which never get turned on manually.


----------



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

troubleseeker said:


> We ue total green rock in bath rooms, unless the room is very large, in which case we just extend the green out a sheet or so past the high moisture areas. Be sure to use extra fasteners on the ceiling, because the green board is less stiff than regular dw and sags easier on the overhead. It is actually not to be used on overhead installations according to the manufacturers specs, but is commonly used here without any problems. In a basement bath, I'd definately use all green. Look into using a humidastat instead of a regular switch to control the fan, it's a switch tha senses the humidity and will keep the fan running until the moisture falls to the preset level. They cost more of course, but gaurantee that the fan will run when humidity is present, unlike most fans which never get turned on manually.


...All very good sugestions especially about using more screws for ceiling applications (manufacturer recommends it)
Also: National Gypsum makes a new " XP board ": purple paper-faced and rated as Mold and Moisture (vapor) resistant. HD does not carry it, but most construction material suppliers do...(Every one I have dealt with has no problem selling to the public).


----------



## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

troubleseeker said:


> Look into using a humidastat instead of a regular switch to control the fan, it's a switch tha senses the humidity and will keep the fan running until the moisture falls to the preset level. They cost more of course, but gaurantee that the fan will run when humidity is present, unlike most fans which never get turned on manually.


I never heard of such a thing. It should like a great idea though. Most fans do get turned on manually. The problem is though when leaving the bathroom then get shut off with the light leaving the moisture to linger. That would solve that problem. I'm going to look into that for my house.


----------



## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

I am also interested in this thing, but it is costly,...see this link

http://www.planetnatural.com/site/green-air-thc-1.html


----------



## J187 (May 19, 2006)

Yeah, too expensive for me too. For $19 a count down timer does a great job and they are just as easy to install as a regular switch.

I like these because they look nice and are just as convenient as a switch










INtermatic


----------



## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Cool. I need one....Got a wifey that likes to "boycott the fan". She likes the steam...I try to tell her that the walls and ceiling DONT like it.
Is there a model that comes with a password protect and a lock?...:shifty:


----------



## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

It solve second half the problem... (forget to turn off)

but it does not solve the first half... (forget to turn on) which in a way more important than the second half...


----------



## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

J187 said:


> Yeah, too expensive for me too. For $19 a count down timer does a great job and they are just as easy to install as a regular switch.
> 
> I like these because they look nice and are just as convenient as a switch
> 
> ...


Even better (cheaper) idea. Only problem is it takes a bit more effort to turn it on which leads to being lazy. With the regular switch fan it doesn't take any extra effort just to hit all the switchs at the same time. I may go this route though due to cost.


On another note I always use cement/greenboard for bathrooms but what benifit does it really have?

I know cement board is supposed to be stronger to support the weight of the tile where the paper can rip off the sheetrock taking tike with it. I've seen 3/8 marble tiles put on the floors, walls, and ceiling of a bathroom done with 1/2in sheetrock. It probably wasn't the brightest idea in the world (I wouldn't have done it that way) but it's been that way for a few years now and isn't showing any sings of letting up. In the same house I changed a differant bathroom which was had 1/2in sheetrock everywhere with cermaic tiles glued to it in the shower area. The sheetrock and tile was in great shape and this bathroom was probably from the 60s or 70s.

As far as greenboard resisting moisture what differance does it make if everything is properly painted and caulked? I havn't seen sheetrock actually go bad from water unless it's been submerged or and unpainted portion gets drenched on a regular basis. Is the back of the board more mold resistant? The front of it shouldn't make any differance since it's the paint that would get moldy not the board itself.


----------

