# Maytag Dryer problem



## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

Our Maytag dryer has a dampness sensor and for some reason, the Dryness Control Board, keeps blowing a transistor and thus going out. If it makes a difference the MFR# is 33002905 and I can get it online for about $25, but I hate replacing it all the time. 

Any idea what may cause this? Where it seems to blow on the board is where the yellow w/ blue stripe wire goes to the harness. I haven't yet pulled the back of dryer off (may need to repull front as well) to see what that goes to. I'm guess a sensor of some sort.

It seems to happen about once a year. Today, I pulled the front panel off and cleaned real well, it was a bit linty in there, but wouldn't say it was horrible. I also sent the shop vac into the exhaust of dryer to get any little bit in there, but again, it didn't look that bad, as my wife does clean the filter on every load. 

It is also the same exact spot on the board that blows every time! The dryer is probably 7-9 years old. Short of something inside malfunctioning prior to the board, the only other thing I can forsee is that maybe it's my vent. I should add, when I replace this board all works correctly, but when this blows the timer doesn't advance as it senses the clothes are wet and it's inteli dry.

The dryer has been in the basement the last several years and thus to get it outside, I have about a 7' rise of 4" pipe that then goes about 15' horizontally to exit the house. All pipe, except for about 2', is rigid pipe, taped at seams, and only 3 90's, which includes the short 2' of aluminum flex pipe that I have installed so it can easily be pulled from the wall. Is it possible my exhaust run is putting too much stress on the exhaust/heating and thus causing it to overheat? 

The only reason, I question that is, my wife thinks it happened the first time, when laundry was on main floor and exited right out the wall, with only about 3' of hose to get there!

I haven't cleaned the horizontal pipe for some time, but am planning on buying a brush to see if it has much lint in there, maybe adding to the problem.

Any thoughts on this?? Thanks!


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## mylakeland (Jul 23, 2014)

Hi Brian, I have seen your posts on other sites. I recall you had mentioned replacing the timer at one time. Your repeated board failures are most likely due to that. Maytag had changed timer part numbers mid manufacturing and did not make note of the change properly. Therefore, many people end up getting the wrong timer when ordering a replacement. The only way to insure you order the correct timer is by ordering with the actual Kingston part number NOT the Maytag number. A good distributor will be able to identify the correct item with that information. The big problem you have is that the old timer is long gone so any identification process is NLA. If the wrong timer is installed in that product line, it will cause an early burnout of the dryness board you have replaced so many times. I do realize this is most likely a moot point now since the board #33002905 is NLA at this time and you have most likely replaced the dryer by now, but I am posting this in hopes I can help someone down the road.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

I actually still have the dryer. I had found something at one point that tells the correct timer based on the model or serial of the dryer, but I seem to have lost/misplace that. If I'm correct the control board is the same on all versions of this dryer. If/when the board goes out again, I'll see about finding the correct timer or just replacing the dryer. 

Thanks for the reply.


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## mylakeland (Jul 23, 2014)

Unfortunately that board #33002905 is no longer available, but may be in the future if Whirlpool feels there is enough call for them to retool to make more. So keep your fingers crossed.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

mylakeland said:


> Unfortunately that board #33002905 is no longer available, but may be in the future if Whirlpool feels there is enough call for them to retool to make more. So keep your fingers crossed.


Is this something new or not? I bought the last one online maybe 6 months ago. Don't have to have the board fir dryer to work, just for it to shut off on its own.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

I found the document that explained some of this, it wasn't official just something someone going through this put together. I'll try to link it when at my pc. 

For now, what I've determined is that I have a 24 series dryer, w with a 16 series timer. Based on the article my wire diagram states I should have the 16 series timer. ....hmmm! If that is correct then not sure what is going on as I should be correct. What I can't figure out is the dryness board. I've kept most of the spent ones, just in case. The ones I have ate all rev D.... They have different numbers by the bar code. Did they have different dryness boards based on the different versions of dryers and timers? I can't however find the original timer, if I did in fact replace it like I thought I had done.


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## mylakeland (Jul 23, 2014)

Hi Brian, yes, I was just searching for one of the dryness/chime boards online when I came across your posts (and many more regarding this issue). My supplier said "the estimated time of availability is 2020". Yup, 2020. That is Whirlpools way of saying they aren't saying they are, or are not, available again.
You sound pretty handy, so if you study the wiring diagram of which wires supply power to the timer motor while the dryer is in a run mode, you will see the board can be unplugged from the system and two wires can be connected to bypass the board. However, this will only allow PROPER time advancement in the time dry cycle. It will advance in auto, but the cycles only have about 40 minutes in them. I don't recall which two wires, but I will be doing one again on Friday or Monday. I can update you then.
Another option is to have someone that's good with electronics to find which component failed on your board(s) and have that item replaced. All electronic components can be found online. I've repaired all sorts of circuit boards for clients over the years and that's what I will do with this next one too.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

Well I tried calling whirlpool, who owns maytag, and he said based on my model and serial, the number 24 is all he needed on serial, said he had the right timer without doubt. He said all 16 series and higher use the same timer. From a search on appliance parts pros website and whirlpool, it appears I should have the correct timer. I'll point out most places say replace the harness, maybe I should and didn't, don't recall. In any case the timer is about $150-160 shipped and the harness is about $100 more. I can get the dryness board from the appliance website, but not whirlpool. 
The question that beckons is what to do. There isn't much to these timers, but obviously if wrong one is used that's not good, but I appear to have the correct one. Do spend the $100 and see if harness matters, do I spend $160 more and get the timer just in case. I realize cheaper than a new dryer, but not much.... Although mine sends good, other than the obvious. ....


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

If you can tell me that would be great. I guess my source is also out of stock. Hmmm! 
I've thought about repairing the board and may have to go that route. ...


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

No disrespect to either of you, as you obviously forgot more than I will ever know regarding this issue, but it sounds like you are most definitely way past the point of diminishing returns, unless this is just a labor of love, or hate, as the case may be. I admire your perseverance, but what is your time worth? and at the end of the day, even if you replace the parts, whats to say they wont go out again, and you still have an old dryer with old parts. 

I tend to do the same thing, but I am learning. 

The last dryer I got was from the landfill, where a guy was getting ready tho heave it off his pickup truck. It was a whirlpool, and it looked brand new. I asked what it was doing and he said "It is making a scraping noise, and it scared my wife" 

It had a couple of screws wedged down by the blower impeller. I bought a bearing and belt kit, and installed it because I had it apart. That damn dryer was still going after 8 years when I sold the house it was in.

In your case, it sounds like your dryer has a design issue. That run is pretty long if you ask me. You do not have a screen on the outlet I hope?

Good luck.


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## mylakeland (Jul 23, 2014)

Thanks for your viewpoint. Well said. Your Whirlpool is a great dryer. Unfortunately this Maytag is not one of the best, but when a large sum of money is needed for a new unit, it is easier to find the smaller amount to make a repair and hope it lasts. 
True . . . time is money, but it really is a labor of love. My clients appreciate my dedication to save them money. I guess you can say they "love" me. In a manner of speaking of course.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

mylakeland said:


> Thanks for your viewpoint. Well said. Your Whirlpool is a great dryer. Unfortunately this Maytag is not one of the best, but when a large sum of money is needed for a new unit, it is easier to find the smaller amount to make a repair and hope it lasts.
> True . . . time is money, but it really is a labor of love. My clients appreciate my dedication to save them money. I guess you can say they "love" me. In a manner of speaking of course.


Thanks. Frankly I thought this unit was your own. Sounds like "The Maytag man" is busier than they let on. LOLOL I think Whirlpool makes most of them now. They have made Kenmore for a long time. I made the mistake of buying an LG direct drive front load washer. I wish I had stuck with Whirlpool. The LG vibrates the whole house. They're answer? You have to put it on a concrete floor. I asked them how many homes in the US did they think have a second story or main level concrete floor. That's as far as I got with them.

Those parts you mentioned are pretty darned expensive. When you add labor you must be close to a new dryer no?


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

In my case it is my own unit and yes its approaching 10 years old if not already there. A good run. .....I don't think I'd say that. That is a pretty crappy run if you ask me, especially being as this started 5 years ago. I've owned dryers much older with far fewer issues. I realize things aren't made with the same quality, but that sure doesn't make me want to rush out and buy another problem. I won't probably buy a new timer as it sounds like I have the correct one. If it were determined I had the incorrect timer I'd consider it. Maybe I should chance the harness, but I agree that's an expensive"chance". The board that keeps blowing is $35 and literally a 5-10 min fix at this point. Yes my time is worth something, but at this stage I don't have much of that invested in the repairs, other than some time wasted on the forums every once in a while trying to figure out my issue. 
I don't take any disrespect in your comment, but based on your comment when should one throw in the towel? This started 4-5, maybe 6, years ago, when the dryer was at most 5yrs old. If I had thrown in the towel then, that's $100 per year to own the dryer. In my book that's an expensive run. Most of my time was spent at that point to find the problem. I'm now at, besides replying to my year old thread, 5-10 min once or twice a year replacing a $35 part. Ideal. .... no way, but I know the problem and have decided for now that's cheaper than potentially buying an unknown problem in a new unit that may cost more to fix when it decides to have some fancy feature break. Anything else goes and the unit will be gone! 
I also guess any info I can provide to help someone else work through this is my way of paying back the knowledge and information I've found online as well.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

mylakeland said:


> You sound pretty handy, so if you study the wiring diagram of which wires supply power to the timer motor while the dryer is in a run mode, you will see the board can be unplugged from the system and two wires can be connected to bypass the board. However, this will only allow PROPER time advancement in the time dry cycle. It will advance in auto, but the cycles only have about 40 minutes in them. I don't recall which two wires, but I will be doing one again on Friday or Monday. I can update you then.


I'm no expert on reading these diagrams, but would that be pin 4(wire BR) &13(wire RD from GY) on the dryness display/chime plug? Do I just create a jumper? 
Thanks again!


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Master Brian said:


> In my case it is my own unit and yes its approaching 10 years old if not already there. A good run. .....I don't think I'd say that. That is a pretty crappy run if you ask me, especially being as this started 5 years ago. I've owned dryers much older with far fewer issues. I realize things aren't made with the same quality, but that sure doesn't make me want to rush out and buy another problem. I won't probably buy a new timer as it sounds like I have the correct one. If it were determined I had the incorrect timer I'd consider it. Maybe I should chance the harness, but I agree that's an expensive"chance". The board that keeps blowing is $35 and literally a 5-10 min fix at this point. Yes my time is worth something, but at this stage I don't have much of that invested in the repairs, other than some time wasted on the forums every once in a while trying to figure out my issue.
> I don't take any disrespect in your comment, but based on your comment when should one throw in the towel? This started 4-5, maybe 6, years ago, when the dryer was at most 5yrs old. If I had thrown in the towel then, that's $100 per year to own the dryer. In my book that's an expensive run. Most of my time was spent at that point to find the problem. I'm now at, besides replying to my year old thread, 5-10 min once or twice a year replacing a $35 part. Ideal. .... no way, but I know the problem and have decided for now that's cheaper than potentially buying an unknown problem in a new unit that may cost more to fix when it decides to have some fancy feature break. Anything else goes and the unit will be gone!
> I also guess any info I can provide to help someone else work through this is my way of paying back the knowledge and information I've found online as well.


All very good points. It seems almost criminal to me that manufacturers do not correct the problems that they have and issue replacement parts for free, but that is not the world we live in any more. It is amazing to me that manufacturers seem to think that people buy things based on commercials and not on personal experience. Cars are a good example. 

Good luck with your project, and thanks for the knowledge.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

jagans said:


> All very good points. It seems almost criminal to me that manufacturers do not correct the problems that they have and issue replacement parts for free, but that is not the world we live in any more. It is amazing to me that manufacturers seem to think that people buy things based on commercials and not on personal experience. Cars are a good example.
> 
> Good luck with your project, and thanks for the knowledge.


 I totally agree! I sure won't buy another Maytag and even a Whirlpool, even though they appear to be good, makes me question that route as well!! The house had a fairly new whirlpool water heater that was a POS at best!! Not impressed by how either company has stood behind their products. I do realize they are now one and the same. 

I also am shocked there isn't some sort of class action suite against them on this particular issue as it does seem VERY common and the problem caused by this board blowing is a dryer that DOESN'T shut off on it's own....can't help but think that's a fire waiting to happen!!!! We are aware of the danger and try to limit the dryer to running only when we are there to check on it, which is why, I probably will replace it sooner than later, even though I sort of said differently above. It's just there are other things more pressing at this time and like I said, am I just trading it in on another problem??


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

I know I am going back a ways, but it was not that long ago that dryers only had timers, no sensors, so if you have a timer you should be OK once you figure out about how long a typical load/type takes to dry.

I have actually been hanging my heavy stuff like towels out on a clothes line. Boy do they come out nice, and there ain't much chance of that solar furnace up there developing a bad board. If it does, my laundry will be the last thing I will have to worry about.


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## Lancelot (Sep 12, 2018)

I have run into the situation described in this thread. I have removed the Sensor Assembly board (33002905), and can see that the Transistor Q2 is Blown. Unfortunately the piece of the transistor that blew contained the part details for this Transistor. Since Maytag/Whirlpool have discontinued this Part, if anyone can help me with the part number of the Transistor at Q2 on this board, I can replace myself, and hopefully return machine to fully functional. 

Thank you


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Lancelot said:


> I have run into the situation described in this thread. I have removed the Sensor Assembly board (33002905), and can see that the Transistor Q2 is Blown. Unfortunately the piece of the transistor that blew contained the part details for this Transistor. Since Maytag/Whirlpool have discontinued this Part, if anyone can help me with the part number of the Transistor at Q2 on this board, I can replace myself, and hopefully return machine to fully functional.
> 
> Thank you


I don't have a answer for your question directly, but after scanning through this discussion I'm wondering if that problematic sensor can be bypassed and completely eliminated and the dryer still function.


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## Lancelot (Sep 12, 2018)

Since this Circuit board is integral in the overall timer Circuit, removing it completely and bridging some of the connections may be an alternative to at least ensure the machine switches off after a certain time, but ideally if someone on this thread can provide the Transistor details, I should be able to get the timer working in all modes of operation.


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