# Can Wet Drywall Possibly be Ok to Keep?



## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

I would stretch a line and cut out the affected area so that it and only it needs replaced. Metal stud track on bottom may be holding water and putting the humidity in the cavities off the meter. You will end up with much worse problems if this is the case.


----------



## iminaquagmire (Jul 10, 2010)

You may or may not have a metal track bottom plate. Some areas require a pressure treated plate. Depends on where and when this was built. Though I agree it should most definitely be investigated. I would cut the bottom four inches or so off the drywall. This will show you if you have a track that is holding water. It will also allow air into the wall cavity to dry it out. When its time to put this all back together, replace that section of drywall with mold resistant stuff or cement board, and cover the gap with a taller baseboard.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ressure-treated-sill-plates-and-building-code

http://healthybuildings.com/indoor-air-quality/floods-clean/

http://www.health.state.mn.us/divs/eh/emergency/natural/floods/mold/mold.html

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...KlSuwkKF-dYvPrQ&bvm=bv.55819444,d.cGE&cad=rja

Gary


----------



## msmcett79 (Nov 2, 2013)

I had someone finish the basement while I lived there in 2006. There is a stud track on bottom, but I do not think it is water tight. I brought this up to ServiceMaster and he seemed confident that the current plan will get any/all water out even if there was some water pooled in one of the bottom tracks. However, to make sure he is going to drill several holes that baseboard will cover up to let some air in and let water out if there is any. They will also spray the anti-fungal through those holes to get behind the wall. 

Finally, he said if there are any issues based on their decision not to remove drywall, they will come back out to address as necessary free of charge. To that point he said they would not choose this course of action if he wasn't extremely confident that it will work. Finally, they do plan to check the drywall very closely Monday/Tuesday. If there is any indication that it will not be sturdy for the long term or there are any concerns with mold, then it will be torn out.

Thanks again for the input!


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Get that in writing.
I've had to deal with them a few times and it was a disaster every time.
Whole 3 story house got flooded because the copper pipes in the attic burst and no one was there for a week.
They left laminate flooring and particle board subflooring in place, only removed bottom 6" of sheetrock even though all the insulation was soaked. Removed the kitchen cabinets and walked away telling the home owner putting them back is your problem.
Charged the insurance company for work that was not done to the tune of at least $7,000.


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i work in the insurance business repairing after floods,fires,etc. i would have them cut the bottom 3" of drywall to expose the bottom plates on atleast the exterior walls and one side of the interior walls. and after replace the bottom 3" with plywood. with the bottom 3" cut they can be 100% sure there will be no issues and they can spray their sanimaster and mold control to disinfect it properly. also drywall dries harder and can get wet multiple times and still be fine. i would also have them check inside and outside corners, and also areas where the studs may have been on there flat or multiple studs butted up together( drywall door openings for example) because they can hold the moisture and not dry out as quickly. its also strange that you can't find a company to insure you for sump pump failure, its normally the standard.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

It's possible for the drywall to be OK. But in water damage situations, it's a very bad idea to leave drywall. Their blowers and dehumidifiers do very little to dry out behind the drywall. I'm quite surprised any professional restoration company would suggest such a thing.

Also, I agree this should be an insurance issue. No insurance company would ever deny taking out the drywall, and they pinch pennies wherever they can, if that gives you any idea.


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

companies that work for the insurance company typically would love to be like mike holmes and gut the place and completely redo it. the insurance companies pinch the pennies and scratch out things on the scope of work and not want to pay companies like service master. although not being an insurance claim kinda boggles my mind. has the house had many floods or in a flood zone and cant get coverage? they are putting trying to "help" you out and keep your bill low by doing less. although you'd be surprised what those dehu's and fans can dry out. maybe even get them to run an injector blower to blow air into the wall for the few days.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I wouldn't expect a Mike Holmes gut job, but certainly I'd expect a 2' strip of drywall to be cut out, at least for drying purposes. You just can't leave that wet back in there. There's no way they can say mold won't be growing if those stud bays remained sealed.


----------



## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

2' cut out is not standard for a clean water flood. 3" on exteriors walls and one side on the interior walls. now if the water was standing there for days or other reason to bump it up to a grey water flood then sections would be cut at 2'. only a sewer back up gets cut 2' and everything the water touched gets tossed. a sewer back up with all kinds of floaters and what not the bottom plates would also be removed to properly disinfect the basement


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I just threw 2' out there randomly, wasn't trying to call it standard.


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

It takes about 72 hours for mold spores to become mold colonies. If you can get it dried before the threshold, then it will be OK. The trick is getting it thoroughly dry. That means remove the baseboard and poke some holes through the drywall (that can later be covered back up with the baseboard). Force air into the holes. Usually done with some special equipment. The fact that it's rain water is irrelevant. Even distilled water becomes gray water after three days and black water after 7. After 3 days, check it with a moisture meter to see if it is drying. They should have tested it for moisture content before they started and rechecking it should show progress. If it is progressing noticably towards drying, then I would not be afraid to go another couple of days. If not, then tear it out. Use a moisture meter to find the point where the moisture returns to a normal level. In other words, start metering at the ceiling. At some point as you progress towards the floor, the meter will start to climb. Go one foot above the point where the meter starts to climb. Mark the wall and cut out from there down.


----------



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Maintenance 6 said:


> It takes about 72 hours for mold spores to become mold colonies. If you can get it dried before the threshold, then it will be OK. The trick is getting it thoroughly dry. That means remove the baseboard and poke some holes through the drywall (that can later be covered back up with the baseboard). Force air into the holes. Usually done with some special equipment. The fact that it's rain water is irrelevant. Even distilled water becomes gray water after three days and black water after 7. After 3 days, check it with a moisture meter to see if it is drying. They should have tested it for moisture content before they started and rechecking it should show progress. If it is progressing noticably towards drying, then I would not be afraid to go another couple of days. If not, then tear it out. Use a moisture meter to find the point where the moisture returns to a normal level. In other words, start metering at the ceiling. At some point as you progress towards the floor, the meter will start to climb. Go one foot above the point where the meter starts to climb. Mark the wall and cut out from there down.


well said.


----------



## M_bisson (Nov 10, 2013)

I had a flood in an apartment building 3 years ago. It came from the floor above me and filled up a bulkhead with lights over my kitchen counter. A few weeks later I cut out small samples and sent them away for testing (one of those mould test kits). They found only the mould that's always present but nothing unusual. The bulkhead was never even aired out properly.


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

M_bisson said:


> I had a flood in an apartment building 3 years ago. It came from the floor above me and filled up a bulkhead with lights over my kitchen counter. A few weeks later I cut out small samples and sent them away for testing (one of those mould test kits). They found only the mould that's always present but nothing unusual. The bulkhead was never even aired out properly.


Consider yourself lucky. I've torn out lots of drywall that grew mold just from high humidity............. Have to wonder what "only the mould that's always present" means. Since mail away test kits can't sample for volume. then that is a really amazing comment. Kind of like saying, you have mold, but our crystal ball says it's normal. :whistling2:


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Here's the thing now you are dealing with insurance, so you do as service master suggests and basically do nothing. Now 6 months down the road you start getting this funky smell. Of course now everything is done, sealed up, and painted. You call someone in to check and they find out you have a big mold problem behind the wall. This may call for a complete gut down to the studs and remediation people and can run into thousands of dollars. Since you already signed off with the insurance co. guess who the total cost falls on. You can bet it won't be Service Master. Not worth the chance to me.


----------

