# Attic Insulation



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Figure the NFVA using the tables/math; http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/products/intakeSoffit-specs.shtml

Figure the intakes (should be a NFVA # on them: http://www.lomanco.com/intakemain.html

Use a baffle in every bay out of foam board; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/published-articles/pa-crash-course-in-roof-venting

Add fb stacked on the ext. wall top plate after air sealing entire attic; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...BA&usg=AFQjCNHwd56o0AxLi8-V03E5cMUmwWATQw&cad

Gary


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## dabeast (Apr 2, 2013)

Gary in WA said:


> Add fb stacked on the ext. wall top plate
> 
> Gary


Not sure what you mean by that and also don't understand from the link.

Thanks,


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Sorry, foam board laid flat and stacked to get minimum R-value required for your Zone (R-49) due to low clearance between roof sheathing/drywall. If unable to get full R-value per code for ceiling, at least get minimum (per code) for walls (R-20) to use up there. http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/index.jsp?state=Montana

The link was on air sealing the attic, did it not work? 

Gary
PS. You may want to add a handrail and close off the risers on your front steps, to make min. code for liability/safety for visitors; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2006f2/icod_irc_2006f2_3_par104.htm

http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2006f2/icod_irc_2006f2_3_par108.htm

May also need a landing/guardrails, check with local AHJ; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2006f2/icod_irc_2006f2_3_par109.htm as you may be under that part of the IRC; http://www.reedconstructiondata.com/building-codes/montana/

Never-mind.... on closer look it appears those are temporary stairs... lol.


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## dabeast (Apr 2, 2013)

Yea there is a deck there now. That picture was taken last fall after the siding was done.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I realized that, thanks! Any other questions?

Gary


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## Mark Harvey (Apr 20, 2009)

*vents*

I see in the picture that you have venting in the soffits, but is there any on the roof? You need the folw of air to be effective. As to insulation,every "bay" should be blocked where the wall and roof meet, ... leaving about 1" gap for air. Consider blow-in insulation, you can get better overall coverage and add to it, if need be, at a future time.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i used fanfoil for my baffles. cut it to fit each bay. cut it to let it go on top of the top plate. staple on to underside of rafters. at the top plate, xps pieces with spray foam to make the ff go up to about 1" from the roof sheathing.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

here is a good pic ( i ran out of xps pieces at this point).


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## dabeast (Apr 2, 2013)

Mark Harvey said:


> I see in the picture that you have venting in the soffits, but is there any on the roof? You need the folw of air to be effective. As to insulation,every "bay" should be blocked where the wall and roof meet, ... leaving about 1" gap for air. Consider blow-in insulation, you can get better overall coverage and add to it, if need be, at a future time.


All the roof vents are on the back of the house.


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## Mark Harvey (Apr 20, 2009)

*ceiling insulation*

Hi Montana, It's looking good. Here is a mental picture. Think of an attic as a room above your living area. Underneath is usually covered with something like a floor (ceiling drywall or other material) then the walls (your roof). The bottom should be well insulated to keep the heat in the living area ... in the living area. above that, you want air circulation from the soffits up and out through your vents. Personally I prefer a ridge vent over other types. (A ridge vent runs the entire lenght of your roof line and literally vents the total space evenly). The same concept applies if the roof is to have insulation attached to the trusses, you still need that air flow from the soffits up and out, that's why there is a gap above the solid insulation and the wood sheathing (your roof). Hope his helps. Mark


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