# Which Roof & Flashing Sealant Do you Prefer?



## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

TRG In a previous conversation you told me what you liked, I wrote it down, that was some time ago, and now must confess to losing my scribble.

While going over GAF Timbertex installation instructions I noticed Sonneborn NP1 and Henkel PL Urethane specified for high wind areas. Both these products claim a permanent , water and weatherproof seal.

Has GE Silicone II Blacktop & Roof been dethroned. ( assuming it ever had the throne) 

I thought it odd that the roofing supply stores in my area sell none of Urethanes but do sell Silicone based sealants of one sort or another.

So then, what works in real world roofing applications? :jester:


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## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

Depends on what application your using ir for. I love NP1 and NP2. NP1 comes in a tube, is a one part, and is a moisture cure. NP2 is a two part, chemical cure and comes in a bucket, available in almost any color. I like silicones too, Dow and Pecora make some nice products as well. Typically my rule of thumb has been to use the urethanes where I dont expect a high amount of movement (ie surface mounted counterflashing) and the silicones where a lot of movement is expected.


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Good answer! I just found out PL (Henkel) has just come out with a new product, a hybred in fact. If you can believe that. It's named Ultimate hybred sealant + adhesive. 

I have not found the NP 1 in my area. 3M makes a 5200 Urethane thats great. Good for below waterlines. Not considered removable. There is a 4200 not quite as strong but quite good (I think) also, and removable. :laughing:


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Interesting thread. I tend to buy Black Jack Neoprene. Must use 12 or more tubes each year. Ultra19 in the tube looks decent too. Just bough some to use with a PolyGlass roof system.

Most of my roofs are metal, so I don't get to use much sealant.


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Based on the information I have gathered thus far Urethanes are being introduced for a increasing array of applications. I bought PL Polyurethane today. Gonna use it to secure some of my brother in laws ridge shingles.

:wink:


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

been working--you need better notes doc -the bomb is GEOCELL 2300tri-polymer sealant which is a mix of silicone and urethane,can be applied in most temperatures,and has 800 per cent elasticity,sonneborn is also excellent


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

all you had to do was call:yes:


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

TRG, Yes I could have called. Or, simply emailed you. Posting was more fun and now thanks to you, the board knows about the "BOMB". :thumbsup:


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

but you spent the $ on something else


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

My brother in law paid for it. :laughing:


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## RooferJim (Mar 11, 2006)

We like Tremco Dymonic for reglets and flashing joints. You can tool it "unlike Geocell". Also has all the colors to match mortor etc.. We use Bulldog to hand seal shingles.
RooferJim
www.jbennetteroofing.com


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

for reglets GEocell mortar seal-for shingles geocell rp-400,can be tooled as it`s installed,if you can`t install it neat enough,also mineral spirits works


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Whats the story on the Geocel 3500? :wink:


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

you tell me chuckles


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Well, I'd like to know who has used it, on what and what success they had with it? So then, thats what I meant by "Whats The Story". :yes:


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

Ncgrogen, When I replaced the blown off ridge area shingles at my brother-in-law's house I ended up reusing almost all of the ridge caps. I finally found a local source for NP1, and used it to adhere the the caps down. Really strong bond with the NP1. 

The PL polyurethane roof sealant seemed to work work very well over nails which were popping up through many of his old shingles. I pulled them out, poly'ed over the hole, coated the nail, then replaced it. The poly cured tack free and adhered well. Seems to be quite durable. Time will tell how it stands up to UV from the Sun.


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

Should Have Replaced The Shingles Doc !


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## Docfletcher (Aug 1, 2007)

TRG, Yep, quite right. His decision though. Probably a good one short term. Roof is showing it's age and should be replaced.


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## dayne201 (Jan 5, 2008)

*Avoid All Sealants/Caulk*

I may get some flak for this, but I have found out that sealants are the weakest component in a roof. They don't weather well, they get hot, freeze, and simply don't hold up over the years. The materials which make up an ideal roof should last for decades, and have similar durability. 

A well built roof is one in which relies solely on gravity to keep out water - nothing else. Where caulking and sealants are relied on to keep out water, it will always fail. 

No exposed nails or fasteners, no shoddy patch jobs with tar or roof cement, and no caulking anywhere. 

Flashings should be soldered, and made with a durable metal like copper or tin.

Caulks rarely last the life of the roofing material, so why would you want to make it a part of your roof?


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

a knowledgeable contractor knows where to put sealants,to say they have no place on a roof is naive,even a pipe vnt flashing made of lead should have sealant placed underneath it prior to install(to prevent back up situations),and flue pipes need to be sealed at the collar,power vents should be sealed underneath prior to setting the unit,and the list goes on and on,including sealants used to seal reglets at chimneys ,and walls.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

One comment about sealants.

Even the lousiest brand of sealant will remain pliable for extended periods of time if it is shielded from the UV rays of the sun or is installed and encapsulated, as in the situation behind the attachment of the sheet metal counter flashings.

It is exposed sealants that suffer the most degradation.

Ed


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## dayne201 (Jan 5, 2008)

You guys are right. Thanks for the advice. I have minimal roofing experience. We had a new roof put on in 1998, and two years ago we fixed the leak that was caused by a poor repair (caulking). Obviously, it was exposed to the weather and didn't hold up.


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