# Honeywell Y8150 Whole House Ventilation system



## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

Hello everyone,

I have a new construction home that has a Honeywell Y8150 Whole House Ventilation system installed. My problem is, the way it is adjusted the fan comes on every hour and runs for approximately 40 minutes. If I'm doing my math correctly, the fan is running about 16 hours a day for ventilation purposes. While I love the idea of having fresh air brought into the house, this seems like an excessive amount of time for the fan to be running. I have checked with the builder and the system is supposedly set up correctly. The home is approximately 2800 square feet and is 3 bedrooms. If anyone is familiar with this system, the controller settings are as follows: Bedrooms-3, Square footage-2800, CFM-90. Can anyone tell me if this is proper. Thanks


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## William Clendenning (Sep 11, 2008)

*ventilation requirement*

This is a very late response considering your post was in April of last year but...........

Use the following formula to determine maximum flow rate: (7.5 CFM x number of occupants) + (0.01 CFM x sq ft). It is required as per ASHRAE 62.2 2006.

The above is an ASHRAE standard. NOTE: number of occupants is the number of bedrooms in the house plus one (assuming two people in the master bedroom). sq ft is the conditioned (heated) square footage of your house (so, don't count the garage). Also note this equation determines the MAXIMUM flow rate.

So, for your house the equation should be:

(7.5 CFM x 4) + (0.01 x 2800sf) = 58CFM Maximum (rather than 90CFM). 

This is based on continuous ventilation. 

I just learned there is test button inside the timer that you can press (hold for 2-3 seconds) and if the light blinks red the timer is not set correctly. If it blinks green then the timer is set correctly.

Good luck.

BC


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

Thanks for the reply ( sorry for the late response, I just checked back...see below) I had the HVAC company wire the fresh air intake to open whenever the fan kicks on but now I'm wondering if this was a good ideas or not. My logic was that if the A/C or heat did not need to run I would frequently have the windows open anyway. Now with the horrible allergies my family has been having I am considering running the HAVC fan 24/7 to filter the house, but am concerned with having outside air brought in the whole time despite using a decent filter (3M 4" media filter from Lowes). I have read online that the cost of running the fan 24/7 is only roughly an additional $60 per year, definitely cheaper than buying separate air purifiers for the whole house. Can anyone confirm that this is roughly the correct cost of running the fan? The unit was installed when my house was built in 2006 and I have no paperwork on it to know how much power it uses. Also I would like to get rid of the new house smell (stench) and am considering using a carbon pad to do this. I know the carpet and paint are off gasing VOC's and am looking for a solution if anyone knows of one.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Post the brand and model number of your furnace.
If it has a PSC blower, then its anywhere from 20 to 50 dollars a month to run the fan 24/7.
If its a VS/ECM blower, then it only have as much to run, if your duct work is sized correctly.

Did your family only develope their allergies since moving into the new home? And did they seem to develope them in the summer?

3M filter from Lowes?, is it a 1" filter.
If so, then its doing more harm to your system then it is good for your family.

The 90CFM was correct for your homes size.
But, a poor choice for your home.
Its a very wasteful way of providing fresh air. 
An ERV or HRV would have been a better choice.

On the hottest days, and the coldest days. The Y8150 brings in all that unconditioned air. That you have to pay to either heat or cool.
If your house leaks enough for it to bring in the set amount of air.

An ERV, or HRV, would precondition the fresh air with some of the heat from the exhaust air. So you wouldn't be paying nearly as much to heat or cool all that fresh air.


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

Thanks for the help beenthere.

  My furnace is a Rheem RGPP-10EBRJR. I have contacted Rheem and they have emailed me the manual and spec sheet and it looks like it has a standard continuous motor as opposed to a variable based on the manual saying:

"Integrated Furnace Control. The “Brain” of the Rheem Quiet 80 is the Integrated Furnace Control (IFC) which directs all activi-ties of the major furnace components. The control features low-speed continuous fan operation and accessory terminals.

As per the spec sheet, the unit uses 9.5A at 115V. I know watts = volts x amps so am I correct that the unit uses 1.1kw? With an electric rate of 12.8 kwh what is the cost of running the unit?

  I moved from the east coast to Houston Texas a few years ago and ever since moving my allergies are definitely worse, however this year they are much worse than normal. I have heard this may be thanks to hurricane Ike. Since we really don’t have seasons here we seem to have them all year long but just the past few weeks they have gotten much worse.

 The filter I am using is a 3M Filtrete 4" Allergen Reduction Filter which has an MPR rating of 1550 and is MERV 12.

 The builder claims that since the house is energy star rated and is so tightly sealed that the Honeywell Y8150 Whole House Ventilation system is necessary to bring in fresh air. I wonder how much of this is true and how much is just hype to set them apart from other builders that do not have any form of fresh air intake. I do know that the house has a strong smell from the off gassing as I have mentioned and would assume the fresh air intake would help a bit in that regard, although I know the smell and VOC’s are not being absorbed/filtered. 

 The HVAC installer’s website says “can install a unit in your home referred to as an Open Window Concept. This method takes stale air from the inside of your home, removes odors and moisture, and mixes it with fresh air from outdoors. Before the fresh outdoor air is introduced indoors, its temperature is cooled to match the temperature of the air inside your home.” This must be different than my system since mine does not remove odors and moisture and the temperature is not matched as to my knowledge.

 Sorry for the lengthy post I hope I have addressed all of your questions. What do you suggest I do at this point? Thanks again!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

If your house is as tight as the builder claims.
Then your fresh air intake can't work. Since there would be no way to expelled the stale air.

You may want to check into the ERV/HRV, which is what the contrator is talking about on the web site.

That 4" 3M. Get rid of it. Its too restrictive.
Get an OEM 4" media of same allergen/MERV rating.
You get better air flow.

Most newer furnace control boards can run a PSC blower on a slower speed in fan on mode.
Still uses a lot of electric.


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

By OEM do you mean the Honeywell FC100Afilter that the installer sells for $95 for a 2 pack as opposed to the $25-3- for the 3M Filtrete?

How can I tell how restrictive a filter will be? I know the Merv is the rating of of how well it filters, but where is there a rating of a filters restrictiveness? Is it hat #m filters in general are restrictive and no good? Problem is I don't know of anywhere locally to buy the Honeywell inexpensively and Lowes s right near me with a reasonable price on the Filterete.

Regarding the frsh air intake, do you recommend I leave it running as it is to allow fresh air whenver the Hvac system kicks on for heat or A/C or should I disconnect it? I see your logic that if the house is that tight the intake would not work, so in reality it may be unnecessary and the house the house may breathe fine. I don't really want to invest more money by installing anything else but out of curiosity what would a ERV/HRV cost approximately?

As far as a carbon filter being added to help with the smell/VOC's do you have any recommendations?

Thanks for the help and info!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The 3M are just restrictive by their design.

Best way to tell is with a manometer, and read the pressure drop across a 3M, and then across a Honeywell.

What you can do, for the moment, without a manometer.

Put the 3M back in, when it runs for heat again. Go to, or find the room with the least air flow.
Then put that blue filter back in. And recheck the air flow to that room.
You should see a big difference i n air flow.
The Honeywell will be 1/2 way between those.

There should be some internet sites, that you can order the Honeywells through. 

A Carbon filter will help remove the odors, and you can order them online also.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

I wouldn't completely eliminate the intake. But i would cut it back to 60CFM max. And just leave it that it only opens when the heat or cooling is on.


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

When I first changed my filter there was a Honeywell in there and I never saw a blue filter as you describe.

Are there any other filters other than the Honeywell that you would also recommend. One of the HVAC installers recommended an Air Demon filter from Home Depot and he said it was cheaper than the ~$40 Honeywell. http://www.aafilters.com/airdemon.htmhttp://www.americanairfilter.com/index.asp?sid=1&action=product&id=5&deptID=5


Amazon and Home Depot have the Honeywell CF200A1016 4-Inch Ultra Efficiency Air Cleaner Filter for $30 which is rated at Merv 12. Should I assume the CF200A is better than the FC100A  replacements the installer sells since it has a higher MERV rating?

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-CF2...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1236202142&sr=1-1

On a side note, It seems like all these filters are designed to last UP to 12 months. The installer recommends replacing at least twice a year. I have checked the filter after 3-6 months and it still roughly the same color so I am having a hard time determining when to replace it.

As far as the carbon filter goes, are you aware of any online dealers of carbon filter pads that sell it by the roll for cheap that I could cut to size? I imagine I could just tape the carbon filter pad to the exhaust side of the 4" media filter? All I have found online so far is http://www.air-purifiers-superstore.com/disposable_carbon_furnace_filter_pads.html but it's $22 for one filter and I'm not sure how often I would have to change it.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Carbon filters are sold in a metal frame, atleast the ones I get are.
You have to measure the exact size you need.

I get mine through whole sale houses, so I don't know of any internet sites, but have heard from customers that they ordered theirs off the net.

Those cheap filters from Lowes and HD are all very restrictive. Thats why they are cheap. They are made with good air flow in mind. 


Their just made to appeal to people by being cheaper.
They cost you far more in electric and gas consumption then they save on upfront cost.

An OEM air filter, may have a PD of .17, while a Lowes or HD may have a PD of .31" or more.
Which lowers your air flow by 20% plus.
And can shorten the life span of your furnace.


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

How would the carbon filters in a frame work since I can't fit anything other than the media filter in the housing? Would this be a carbon filter that would be used in place of the media filter, or could I use it in the first and second fllor intakes before the air gets to my attic where the media filter is? How often does it need to be changed?

Would the Honeywell CF200A1016 4-Inch Ultra Efficiency Air Cleaner Filter for $30 be considered restrictive? I would imagine since it is made by Honeywell and is a higher model number (CF200A as opposed to the CF100A) hat it is a quality filter? 

EDIT: I just noticed that there is a FC200E1037 and a CF200A1016. Kind of confusing, but I'm guessing the CF is a lower quality filter than the FC designed for sale at a cheaper price? It does have a MERV rating of 12, but is this going to be a cheaper, more restrictive filter as well?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

One is a MERV 12, the other is a MERV 13.
They have slightly different resistances. But not much.

Forgot your using a media case.

You would need to add a slot for the carbon filter.

I prefer them to be after the media filter. They last longer that way, Since they don't get clogged up with duct and dirt.


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

OK so if the Honeywell CF200A1016is a quality non restrictive filter in your opinions I'll use that one from now on since it's the same price as the 3M Filtrete.

When you say I would need to add a slot for the carbon filter I assume this means having an HVAC pro come out and actually cut an opening? What's your opinion of just cutting some HVAC carbon filter pad and attaching it to the exhaust side of the filter?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

It would probably be pulled off and drawn into the blower.


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## carquote (Apr 28, 2007)

beenthere said:


> I wouldn't completely eliminate the intake. But i would cut it back to 60CFM max. And just leave it that it only opens when the heat or cooling is on.


 The HVAC installer wired the intake direct to the blower motor I believe so that the intake opens whenever the fan runs. He completely bypassed the Honeywell Y8150 controller so I assume there is no way to cut it back to 60 CFM. How can I get the schematics to find out how to re-wire properly and how would I have it come on whenever the fan comes on and use the controller. The controller has no such option I thought?

For the carbon filter pad, it hadn't occurred to me that it could get sucked away. I just thought using some HVAC foil tape would hold it, but I guess not. So my only option is to have a cutout made for a carbon filter frame? How much might that run and how would that work? They cut it out and somehow make a door for a filter to be installed? Sorry for having so many questions, I am really confused by this all.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

They cut out a slot, and install a filter channel and door.

You can look for the install instructions of both the furnace and damper, to see the instructions to wire it up.


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