# Brick molding too shallow for storm door



## joecaption

I could not get the site to open up you tryed to post.
A picture of you brick moulding would be nice.

Adding a spacer is fine as long as it does not stick out to far.


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## axenol

joecaption, sorry about that. I put the URL in the wrong part of the html. It should work now.

Is a "spacer" a technical term or are you referring to any piece of wood, which would fill up the empty space?

Thanks for your response!


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## axenol

Here's a picture of me holding the aforementioned "stop board" to the shallow brick molding to help you imagine what I'm trying to accomplish (see attachment).


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## HomeSealed

You are on the right track. Essentially you just need to "build out" the trim a little bit... Make sure that you pre-drill that pine or it will split all over the place.


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## axenol

Thanks for the tip, HomeSealed. I was wondering about the splitting; I know pine is not too hard of wood (unlike oak and maple) so in theory it should hold up, but I'll pre-drill to be safe, and make sure it's securely attached to the brick molding before I add the weight of the storm door to it.

Thanks again!


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## tcleve4911

.....and I would prime and paint that piece before you install the door over it.


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## axenol

I definitely will so it doesn't rot out as quickly but thanks for bringing it up. I also need to sand out some of that peeling paint on the jamb after I ripped off the silicone around the old storm door. So a follow-up question:

If I sand out that peeling paint on the jamb, and repaint it, would I also need to prime before I paint or is the paint going to hold? In a more general sense, the question is:

When you need to touch up some peeling paint on the brick molding/jamb/trim/etc. outside, do you need to completely remove the old paint, prime, and repaint or it is sufficient just to sand out the damaged paint and repaint right on top?


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