# Beadboard ceiling



## send_it_all

If you use the planks, the way to install it is perpendicular to the ceiling joists. The planks should be tongue and groove, so you will have to face-nail part of the first and last pieces. After that, you should be nailing through the tongues, at an angle, so the nails dont interfere with the fit of the next piece. If you use the sheets, you can run them any direction you want. I would probably use some sort of adhesive to help them stick properly...probably painter's caulk so you could get it down later if you want. Try to nail into the ceiling joists wherever possible. If you are having trouble finding them, definitely use some adhesive and stitch the nails, meaning point the nail gun at an angle, shoot, then point the nail gun at an opposite angle near the 1st nail and shoot again, creating sort of an X with the two nails. The nails will hold until the adhesive dries, then the panels should stay put. I would definitely prefer using the planks and shooting into joists, but the sheets (mdf) will amost certainly be much cheaper.....like 1/4th of the cost.


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## bigboyjoel

Wow, thanks for the quick reply. That has to be one of the most complete answers I have been given. What would most asthetically look best to you, running the ceiling congruent with the floor or opposite the floor? I believe I will use the MDF form, the tongue annd groove will just be too much drama in my eyes. I just want to give the ceiling a little pop.
Thanks


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## send_it_all

Aesthetics is not really my specialty, but I would say running them the same direction as the floor would look best. I would really suggest using the planks if the budget allows. They will actually be easier to install if you are working alone. You could stagger the end seams and it would look like a professional install. With the sheets, the end seams will look like doo doo on a white chicken. If your kitchen is less than 8 foot across in one direction, I would definitely run the sheets so the end seams aren't an issue. Also, for a first time installer, measuring and making cut-outs for lights and cutting around upper cabinets or range hood ducts could be tricky. I have a lumber yard near me that sells the planks in poplar, but it is pretty expensive.....like .89 cents per linear foot for a 3" wide plank. That would add up quickly when trying to cover a kitchen ceiling.


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## bigboyjoel

I will take a pic of my kitchen ceiling and send it to you. I don't have much to cover, it's a small 10'x11' kicthen and even less ceiling space to cover since the cabinets go all the way to the ceilnig. I have one light fixture to cut around and no hood in the way. For the seams, couldn't I just use wood filler in those areas, then sand, then paint???


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## bofusmosby

I agree that the planks would look better, and be easier to install, but believe me, I know all about the price of the materials dictating what is actually used. I know, down here in Floride, the Home Depot sells the tongue and groove bead-boards 1" x 4" X 12' for $7.99 a board. I am going to have to replace the entire ceiling with these boards. Lets see, my porch has a 2 story ceiling, 34 feet long, and 37 boards deep. I am going to have one heck of a job in front of me. Plus, over $1,000 just for the wood. It adds up quick.

Good luck with your project.


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## bigboyjoel

I hear that. I don't have nearly that much area to cover...only about 10x11, even less than that probably. I just thought that since it's an indoor job, panels would install so much more easier and faster. The actual strength may not be as great as the actual planks. Planks would probably look better and give more depth to the job. Thanks all for your advice in the matter. This job shouldn't take me more than a day I don't think, give I have the proper tools. Do you suggest using some sort of adhesive to put the boards up, plus nails or is gule an over kill in this issue?
Thanks


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## bofusmosby

I am probably the wrong person to ask that. I have a bad habit of doing an "over-kill" on my projects. I probably use more screws than nails. I don't want to take a chance in the plaster coming loose, besides, the old pine is so hard, you have to pre-drill the holes before nailing. I use a lot of the polyeurothane glue myself. I also use a lot of the construction adhesive. 

I have seen some of those sheets when done right, and it does look good. I have never installed it though. I also am no pro at this. I bought an old house a few years ago, and am doing a complete restoration myself. Not that I want to, butI can't afford to hire someone to do it for me. Sort of "learn-as-you-go", if you know what I mean.


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## kbf99

*Question re Nails*

Could anyone elaborate on how you nail the strips in? I am confused as to how you nail through the tongue---won't that prevent the next board from fitting snugly? Thanks!


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## Big Bob




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## kbf99

*Nail Gun v. Hammer*

Thanks Bob! One more thing, do you recommend a nail gun for this project or is a regular hammer and nail sufficient?


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## Big Bob

Really depends on how much you are doing. Nail gun should make this easy, but overhead work can be tricky and you will end up with weight lifter like arms.


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## joed

If possible you definitely want to use a nail gun. I've done it both ways and your arm will feel like it is falling off if you nail them all by hand.
If any of the boards have knot holes in them just paint he spot behind the board black. No one will see the missing knot hole.


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## RippySkippy

Last fall, I installed 400 ft2 in a covered porch, and it was not easy...but it looks great done. I used the dewalt finish nailer with 2-1/2" galvanized nails, it worked great. While helping another friend, he had a Bostitch finish nailer with that has plastic tips that really help keep the nose of the nail gun placed properly.


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## kbf99

*Thanks a lot!*

Thanks!


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## troubleseeker

I asume the wood floor is running with the length of the room, so it would make sense that the ceiling would run in the same direction. I would not use sheets unless you plan on covering the end seams with some type of false beam. Four foot wide seams may be acceptable under a patio, but certainly not inside your house. 1 x 4 t & g beaded boards shouild be available at your local lumber yard in lengths up to 16', so you can absolutley minimize the end seams or eliminate them totally. I agree that the price of the little packages of 4' strips is a rip off. Using 2 or 2 1/2" nails and a nail gun will go a lot easier than hand nailing. Since you are covering the existing ceiling anyway, finding the existing ceiling joists should be no problem using the best low tech stud/loist locater there is... a nail. Also a good idea to at least prime the boards, especially the tongue and grooves , to prevent raw wood from showing when the boards expand and contract.


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## kbf99

*Thanks and Finding Studs*

Thanks Troubleshooter. Good advice. When you suggested finding the joists with a nail do you then snap a chalk line or do anything else for additional nails once you find the joist? What is the most efficient way to make sure you are nailing into the joist each time? I'm a beginner at this! Thanks again.


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## troubleseeker

kbf99 said:


> Thanks Troubleshooter. Good advice. When you suggested finding the joists with a nail do you then snap a chalk line or do anything else for additional nails once you find the joist? What is the most efficient way to make sure you are nailing into the joist each time? I'm a beginner at this! Thanks again.


Agreed, the safest way is to locate the center of the joist top and bottom and snap a chalk line. Most pros develop a pretty good eye and will be able to eyeball it, but the little time you spend snapping the lines will be well spent.


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## ryanali

*beadboard ceilings*

I currently have acoustic (popcorn) paint on my ceiling and would like to put in beadboard. Would you recommend scraping the paint, applying over the rough surface or tearing down the drywall and attaching it directly to the joists


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## Cole

You would definitely want to remove the popcorn texture.

You say it has been painted, are you sure it has been painted?

You must take in account that some popcorn ceilings were sprayed with Asbestos fibers which you would want to know before scraping etc...


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## Bacardi 151

Cole said:


> You would definitely want to remove the popcorn texture.
> 
> You say it has been painted, are you sure it has been painted?
> 
> You must take in account that some popcorn ceilings were sprayed with Asbestos fibers which you would want to know before scraping etc...


I believe ryanali assumed popcorn is a paint vs it being sprayed and painted with paint.

If anyone cares, lol, I'm not a huge fan of beadboard. If I had to have it, I'd do it diagonal, wide planks, stained extra knotty wood. At least it's very interesting to look at. I've seen a couple of places that have 2" beadboard, all runs straight and painted white. It just seems like a waste of money and effort to have a bunch of horizontal lines on your ceiling.

What I like is called a coffered ceiling, which appears would be an easier to install.


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## Mike Swearingen

I assume that you know that there are 4'X8' sheets of "beadboard" available now that come either primed for painting, plain, or stained.
It is a manufactured "beadboard" plywood, similar to T-111 siding, but with a much smoother finish that looks very "real" when applied to a ceiling.
Mike


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## bofusmosby

In my case, its an on Historical house I am restoring. What I was going to do, is to remove maybe 5-10 boards (deep) at a time, followed by installing the new boards right after. In this way, there will be no huge open spaces in the ceiling. I have a full time job, working 6 days a week, so I am only able to put in so much time. This job may take me several months, so in this way, no large un-sightly openings exposed. Am I making a mistake by doing this? I had a roof put on a few years back, and I went up there to inspect the rafters. They looked pretty good. Quite a bit of old termite damage though.

I am also debating on the paint color to use. The original color was the old "front-porch" blue. I'll probably go with that.


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## maryrose

*beadboard question...how to attach to steel ceiling joist?*

has anyone put up beadboard onto a steel ceiling joist.....they are on 24" center, and the room 26' by 14'...would it be best to purt up cheap plywood then nail it to this?
thanks:yes:


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## rpl1978

*nailing beadboard*



kbf99 said:


> Could anyone elaborate on how you nail the strips in? I am confused as to how you nail through the tongue---won't that prevent the next board from fitting snugly? Thanks!


You have to nail the beadboard through the tongue at an angle then countersink the nail so the nail won't interfere with the next board. Hope this helps you.


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## katesearth

*choosing beadboard ceiling for kitchen*

For BigBoyJoel: I would love to see pictures of your kitchen ceiling and how it turned out. We have about the same amount of sq. footage and we were also wondering if the boards should run the same way as the floor. We are also going to paint it white. What did you end up going with the boards or the sheets?:huh:


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## bigboyjoel

*Ceiling*

Yup, the ceiling runs the same direction as the floor but it really doesn't matter. It was wood grain color but I also painted it white. Good thing is you actually don't have to paint it perfectly, you want alittle variation in the ceiling. If it looks too perfect it looks fake. Do you have a facebook account? If so, I'll make you a friend and you can see what we have done. If you need pics, I will load them later.


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## katesearth

*beadboard ceiling*

Hello, I live in a 1958 Colonial Ranch house that has approx. 2100 sq. ft. Very small but we like it as there are only 2 of us. We have been in the house for 20 years and have done many renovations but they still continue. We are working on the Kitchen and dining room areas now. We also have 2.3 acres which requires a lot of care, so far we have planted about 100 trees.


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## bigboyjoel

I take it you don't have a facebook account. I will post some pics.


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## katesearth

*beadboard ceiling*

Hello bigboyjoel, I did reply once before that my facebook is under Kate Smith - so try that, but I imagine there are probably a bunch of Kate Smiths out there. What other info would you need to access my facebook? Thanks.


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## bigboyjoel

*facebook*

My name is Joel Trausch. The ONLY Joel Trausch. Ask me to be your friend!


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## bigboyjoel

Now that I look, I don't have any of the ceiling pics on my facebook. Give me a day to get them on there. 

Helpful hints: It doesn't matter the quality of the beadboard. If your celing is imperfect like mine which is far from even and straight, do yourself a favor an buy the cheap pine wood they sell at Menard's, Lowe's, etc. That is your best bet. It's easy to install and flexible. You can paint it before you install it or paint it after like I did. The hardest thing was putting it together and nailing it to the ceiling. That sucked so bad, it's like installing hardwood floor but on the ceiling. I suggest using a painter scaffold so you can walk the length of the room on it and you're not constantly up and down from the ladder. The scaffolding can be purchased for like $50 bucks and can be used for other projects. You will thank me later. Also, I nailed mine (2 inch with Craftsman air nailer , others glue. I used nails so it can expand a bit between seasons. Use a 1/4 to 1/2 gap arround the perimeter of the room to allow for expannsion from the heat of the cooking ovens and whatnot. I put up crown so it covered the gap. Even with no crown, it's still going to look cool and nobody will question it. Everyone that has come into the kitchen has no idea I added the ceiling and they always say it looks like it came with the house. It's hands down the best thing that I did for that kitchen even though it's unnoticed by alot of people.


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## rick42wood

*Bead Board direction*

One thing you might want to check when deciding which direction to put the boards up is to make sure everything is square. In alot of old houses the trueness of the walls can be out by quite a bit. (I have found) So if you have one wall that is not parallel or square with another wall, the direction of the boards on the ceiling could make this flaw very noticeable. You would want the ends of the boards against the non-square wall. I recently did a bathroom project and found one wall an inch out in 8 feet. If I ran the boards parallel to this wall I would have ended up with a triangular sliver against the other wall which would have been very obvious because of the reference to the lines on the boards.
If everything is square, running the boards parallel to the long wall will make the room appear bigger. Parallel to the short wall will make the room appear smaller. (depending on where you enter the room)


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