# Floating Desk - Best Anchor Method?



## cheapstairparts (Nov 1, 2013)

I'm planning to make a floating desk in the next month. (4 inch thick, butcher block design). I was thinking of framing it out in 2x4s and then wrapping it in some walnut lumber I have laying around. 

My question is what is the best method to mount a floating desk so that it would easily be able to handle a computer, monitors + my arm weight? 

I attached an example photo I found online.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

you dont... most desktops are 18- 24" deep which is too much strain it will need atleast one leg for it not to sag away from the wall


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I would say to weld up some braces out of 2 x 2 angle iron. Perhaps a 60 inch vertical piece, and a 24" horizontal piece. Pull down the drywall and screw the angle to the studs. If you have 4 of the welded braces, should be pretty stiff.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

To avoid legs, a decorative chain could be attached to each end and go up to the wall above forming a 30-60-90 triangle. OH, but wait an minute, they need to fasten into something darn solid to hold a 4" thick shelf plus other stuff and there probably isn't a stud there where we need it. That's where that sturdy shelf above the desk attached to several studs comes into play.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

I would not do this unless I had access to the other side of the wall that the desk is against, and walls on the other side that are perpendicular to the wall that the desk is against, at or near the sides of the desk. 

Then I would use steel, like 1"x2" heavywall rectangular tubing, or angle iron or solid round bar, and run them through the wall so there's twice the length hidden on the other side as there is holding up the desk. In the other room the steel would be lagged to every 2"x4" in the perp walls.

Build the wooden part of the desk to slide over the support members. Use two 3/4" sheets separated by another 3/4" air space.

In effect you are building a cantilever just like used to hold up a bay window or a chimney chase.


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## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

sps is correct we do it all the time 1 1/2" L 3/16" thick one leg 16" other 22" so that way we just turn the leg out that depends on depth of counter


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## Dusky (Mar 10, 2013)

cheapstairparts said:


> I'm planning to make a floating desk in the next month. (4 inch thick, butcher block design). I was thinking of framing it out in 2x4s and then wrapping it in some walnut lumber I have laying around.
> 
> My question is what is the best method to mount a floating desk so that it would easily be able to handle a computer, monitors + my arm weight?
> 
> I attached an example photo I found online.


I couldn't tell if you were planning to use 2x4's for the butcher block. If so, I'd use hardwood veneer plywood instead for the top and wrap the edges with X x 4 lumber to give the 4" thick look at ~1/2 the weight. If you want the butcher block look, use 2x2 for the top and wrap the sides with X x 4s.


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## dftc (Nov 12, 2012)

You definitely want to make it hollow to save some weight. You also will need some sturdy steel supports inside and you may need to beef up the wall, unless it is already unusually sturdy.
A desk is going to require much more support than a typical floating shelf would.
Ideally you would cantilever it on the other side of the wall.


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## cheapstairparts (Nov 1, 2013)

Looks like were welding up a frame then. I will weld up an L shape and bolt it into the studs like you suggested. 

Thanks much!


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

some simple angle brackets that get bolted to wall stud via 2-3 lag screws should suffice. one bracket on each end and then just a nub in center to keep desk from sagging in middle. i would actually cut out the sheet rock and lag right to stud, then patch that up. 1/4" steel against stud and then maybe 3/4x3/4 tube welded to the flat. just leave a pocket underneath so that you can hide the tube when desk top goes over, etc. make tube extend out about 3/4th's the depth of the desk. 

something like this:
the green is thin steel bracket, black is stud, orange is lags and screws, brown is desk, the dark brown is just some extra wood there to screw into, and of course the desk itself would sit down on the brackets hiding them, etc. and just go wherever you have studs, etc.


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