# Installing fascia



## HN2018 (Oct 13, 2018)

Hi,

I am installing 1 x fascia boards around my hip roof.

Do you need to leave an expansion gap for the joints? If yes, how wide of a gap?
What kind of joints do you use? 45 deg miter or butt joint?

45 deg miter looks nice and I will only need to use two nails but they are harder for me to cut.
Butt joints are easier to cut but I need four nails at the rafter tails.
I am also posting this on another forum.

Thanks for your help.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Do you have a sub fascia or raw rafter tails? Common installation will include 2x6 sub fascia for rigidity and something to attach your gutters to while it is overlain with 2x8 1x material, either wood or Azek or similar materials.

If all you have is raw rafter tails, sister a length of 2x material along side where your fascia material will end so you will have two landing boards for your 1x rather than trying to drive 4 nails into the same board where you will risk splitting it. Miter joints always look and perform better.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Decades ago mitered fascia joints were commonplace but I don't recall painting a new fascia in a long time that had mitered joints. Mitered joints look nicer but if the fascia moves any over time a butt joint often looks better.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Exterior wood joints, brings back some memories. 

One of the largest debates we had with painters when we were framing houses in the 70's. Our cut man wanted every piece of wood we nailed on the outside of the home cut tight to where a cigarette wrapper would not pass in to it. 


Our painter would come by and tell us, " Well, that's a pretty wood joint now boys, but when it dries out it will open up a crack. And seeing as y'all did not leave me a crack to put caulk in to, my new paint I put over the joint now, will open up and show a crack...making ME look bad " 

And he was right. But our cutting man just could and would not, allow us to nail up those 45 deg. lap joints that were not skin tight. :smile:


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

I agree with chandler48 it should be 2-by.

Just my opinion.

When it comes to the butt joint vs. miter

I think it depends on whether it's going to be covered or not.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

You MUST have gutters and since this is a hip roof, you'll be surrounded by gutters and no need to have the facia show because most of it will not be seen from the ground. Best is, as noted, 2x sub facia (best base as a nailer) but finish with metal sheet cover then install the gutters. 

Your landscaping maybe created to catch the water and take it away from the house foundation but those are rare.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

We do a 2x4 liner at the end of the trusses which can be hidden completely with the gutter and on the few that we do fascia there is usually a painted 2x8 with 30 mitered joints pointing away from the most traffic area. Never makes sense to put one painted piece way up in the air to be maintained between aluminum gutter and vinyl soffit. Only really noticeable when it warps out of shape.


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## HN2018 (Oct 13, 2018)

Thank you all for replying.

There is no 2x sub fascia and the original that I am replacing is 1 x lumber.

It is an open eave construction so no soffit. So the exposed rafters are raw rater tails.

I will be installing gutters all around but that will come much much later after the re-roofing.

I have primed and painted the rafter tails and 1x lumber.

I have votes for both mitered joints and butt joints. So no clear winner here. Butt joints are easier for me to cut with a circular saw so I will most continue with this.

I am not sure if you say if there should be a gap and how wide.

What do you fill the gap with? caulk or putty, which kind? 
Flexible caulk like DAP Alex Flex Moulding and Trim or Alex Flex Spackling? Both are flexible for movements of wood.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Square, miter or angle cut.


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## HN2018 (Oct 13, 2018)

Sorry, I may have used wrong terminology.

I mean square cut for butt joint is easier for me than scraf joint with a 45 deg bevel cut. Both cuts done with a circular saw.

Ref: https://mitersawhub.com/miter-cut-vs-bevel-cut/

Ref:


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> What do you fill the gap with? caulk or putty, which kind?
> Flexible caulk like DAP Alex Flex Moulding and Trim or Alex Flex Spackling? Both are flexible for movements of wood.



I just use a good siliconized acrylic latex caulk like White Lightning. DAP Alex caulk doesn't preform well! I've not used the DAP spackling. Keeping a wet/damp rag/sponge handy works well at removing any excess caulk along with keeping your fingers clean.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

HN2018 said:


> Sorry, I may have used wrong terminology.
> 
> I mean square cut for butt joint is easier for me than scraf joint with a 45 deg bevel cut. Both cuts done with a circular saw.
> 
> ...


The point of the video is to show that all the cuts are not that hard using a speed square as a guide.

Of course using a miter box is more precise and easier.

Just me.
Make the open end of the joint face away from the entry way into the yard like you would siding.
If this will be seen I make it a 30* cut.
If it will be hidden I make it a butt joint.


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## HN2018 (Oct 13, 2018)

Thank you very much for your time and help.


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## HN2018 (Oct 13, 2018)

Thank you all for your help.

A few days ago I finished installing the fascia for the area I am working on and will continue after I re-roof this area.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

A re-roof is best time to add a metal cladding to the fascia. On this construction, formed 12" Al coil stock bent to 6/12 pitch nailed only to the roof sheathing. Drip edge hangs 1/2" below fascia.


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