# Battery terminal corrosion



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

It's just normal corrosion. Clean them well with a wire brush, inside and out, clean the terminal itself, apply battery terminal spray (not sure what "grease" you bought, and install the felt washers. "bout all you an do. The voltage you indicate is alternator output, not battery condition. Have the battery tested by itself to see if it is holding a charge adequately.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

chandler48 said:


> It's just normal corrosion. Clean them well with a wire brush, inside and out, clean the terminal itself, apply battery terminal spray (not sure what "grease" you bought, and install the felt washers. "bout all you an do. The voltage you indicate is alternator output, not battery condition. Have the battery tested by itself to see if it is holding a charge adequately.


Dielectric grease, comes in a little pack with the felt washers. Instructions say smear it on the posts, then put the felt washers on, then the terminals. I got my wife a new battery for her windstar this summer and they put them on when i bought the battery.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> Clean them well with a wire brush, inside and out


I have an old battery cable/post cleaner I use - it scrapes off a very thin layer of lead giving you a nice clean connection. IMO a tight clean connection is less likely to corrode.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Based on my experience, as well as what I have heard and read, I believe that the average battery life, assuming good connections, a good charging system, etc., is in the range of something like like 4-7 years. Since temperature extremes, on either end of the spectrum can be factors, but, being somewhat in a more-or-less moderate climate, I would suspect that your battery life might be better than some. On the other hand, this assumes all related systems being in good condition, plus, with so many electronics on modern vehicles, proper system voltage is more critical, so it's not wise to push your luck so to speak. The only good way I know to confirm a good or bad battery is with a load test, which one of your local auto parts stores can do for you. It's not a gimmick, because simply checking a battery with a voltage meter tells you next to nothing, and although your charging amps sound about right I would not chalk that up to much insight regarding battery condition.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Since the advent of AGM and Gel batteries I've not needed to clean a battery terminal for at least 20 years.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Or when you wash the vehicle, rinse the battery off. That's what I do and it keeps the corrosion down. I don't use those felt anti-corrosion. I'm a cheap ass. I just rinse the battery off.:vs_cool:


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... I use bakin' soda, 'n warm water to remove the bulk of the corrosion,....

Then a wire brush or scraper to get shiny metal,....

When I put the lugs back on, 'n tighten 'em down, then slather everything with plain ole axle grease,....
No corrosion on my batteries, _Ever_,...


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Short video of the cleaned up terminals. Memory saver worked and i kept all my radio pre-sets, etc. The grease stuff gets smeared on the outside of the terminal. I bet any kind would work


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Since the advent of AGM and Gel batteries I've not needed to clean a battery terminal for at least 20 years.


Electronic voltage regulators have a lot to do with that too. The old 'buzz-box' regulators were very crude devices. I remember mixing up baking soda and water in an old coffee cup too many times.


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## carmusic (Oct 11, 2011)

while driving voltage should be over 14 volt, while parked and rpm around 1500-2000 rpm check voltage with a multi-meter directly on battery, should be over 14v


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

The correct charging voltage on a 12 volt system is between 13.5 & 14.5 unless it has changed over the years.:vs_cool:


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Does anyone know of a battery load tester that they have ultimate confidence in.

I have one car that has a noted load after turned off... and epecially when used for short distances, tends to run down and I replace about every 3 years.

The charging system is fine, and I have a shumacher good charger I use intermittantly to keep up the battery charge.

However, in three years or so, when the battery gets questionable, I take it to AutoZone/WallMart/Pep Boys/Sears/etc and get it load tested..... *and I repeatedly get different analysis back.*

Does anyone know/explain a brand of load tester that seems most reliable and accurate......???


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

No answer to battery load tester, but you let the car sit and periodically trickle charge the battery?

Battery should be on a full time maintainer. Is the load when off a normal parasitic or short?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Here is one almost like mine. ES 725 I got from Cornwell Tools. This thing will test the hole system. Starting, charging, and load test. It tests all automotive and truck batteries. Acid, gel, and what have ya. 12 and 24 volt systems. This thing is bad ass but it cost around $250.00. I use it in the shop and it has caught bad batteries before they start screwing up. I love this thing but it might be to much for you. IDK.:vs_cool:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Of all places, our Farmer's CO-OP in a town bout 10 miles away with a population of bout 42 ( and that's questionable ) has a tester that supposedly tells the remaining life of a battery. *Are they pullin my leg?
*
Anyway I was in the big city, pop 45, 000, and my pickum up truck hesitated in crank mode but did enough to start it. This farmer's co-op is on my way home so I stopped there and they check remaining battery life. The guy look at me and said, " you got nearly all the goodie from this one " it has about 12 minutes of life remaining.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I use the good old fashioned hydrometer, rather than a load tester.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4619-Professional-Battery-Hydrometer/dp/B0050SFVHO


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Well, I use a vom and two paperclips. Straighten and attach paperclips to meter leads. Set on low dc volts. Insert probes between two neighboring cells and record. Measure all neighboring cells. When you get to the last cells nearest the terminals, you measure between the cell and the terminal, then add both end readings together.

Fully charged battery will read 2.1 volts between cells. Deviation of more than .1 v volts, bad battery.

Only works with non-sealed batteries, same as a hydrometer.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

This is the battery tester I bought on Amazon last year. It tests the battery, charging system and cranking. I put it on my Navigator after I cleaned up the posts, and the battery tested good, cranking normal, and charging normal. 13.85V output loaded, 14V unloaded.

Not sure what a "ripple" test is, but evidently mine was also normal. The demo starts at about the 6:50 minute mark. Before that, just a bunch of blah blah blah.

Oh yeah, I used it on my wife's battery on her Windstar. The battery tested bad, and indeed it was.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

47_47 said:


> No answer to battery load tester, but you let the car sit and periodically trickle charge the battery?
> 
> Battery should be on a full time maintainer. Is the load when off a normal parasitic or short?


I generally will use a schmacher charger for several hours that goes into a maintence mode.... but I don't trickle charge. Is there a preferable method.?

It is a known issue with this car... and I can't seem to get a good spec on it.

To the best of my testing/search, it is a parasitic and no short is involved.

It has been awhile since I tested, but I think I was getting almost 50 ma.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

50 mA doesn't seem excessive. I thought you were allowing the battery to be drained down, then recharging. This cycling of charge is not good for auto batteries. 

My mistake and what you are doing is ok.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

An on-board charger will trickle charge the battery when the car is parked overnight. That should take care of the problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-1-12S-CA-Automatic-Onboard-Battery/dp/B0000AXTUY

Best bet is mount it where you can lead the plug out thru the grill, so you can plug it in without lifting the hood.

Just remember to unplug it before backing out.


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## digitalplumber (Jul 8, 2011)

Just as an FYI, Ford no longer has their systems charge batteries to 100%! My sons 2014 has been through 4, yes 4 batteries. Some F150 owners are seeing issues also, mine went out at the 37 month of ownership.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

digitalplumber said:


> Just as an FYI, Ford no longer has their systems charge batteries to 100%! My sons 2014 has been through 4, yes 4 batteries. Some F150 owners are seeing issues also, mine went out at the 37 month of ownership.


Any of idea why.. or the logic.?


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## digitalplumber (Jul 8, 2011)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Any of idea why.. or the logic.?


No clue, not sure how or if it would impact fuel economy, charging all of the time to 100%.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

digitalplumber said:


> No clue, not sure how or if it would impact fuel economy, charging all of the time to 100%.


The Internet is a great place to research questions like this. I did a little research. From multiple sources, the general consensus is that no alternator ever recharges a battery to 100%. They are sized to keep the battery charged within the good range (will start the car) and to run all accessories. A 100 amp alternator seems the minimum these days. Add more accessories and you need to upsize your alternator to 120 or so amps.

When undercharging, you get corrosion on the negative terminal. When overcharging, you get corrosion on the positive terminal. This would indicate to me I might want to upside my alternator.

In re: modern (as in last couple of years) alternators, some are programmed to stop charging if system requirements don't warrant them to charge. This is part of the effort to squeeze every last fraction of a MPG for the car. Here is an article that explains it fully.

http://www.jcwnapa.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/TE_0614_TE1.pdf


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## digitalplumber (Jul 8, 2011)

Bigplanz said:


> The Internet is a great place to research questions like this. I did a little research. From multiple sources, the general consensus is that no alternator ever recharges a battery to 100%. They are sized to keep the battery charged within the good range (will start the car) and to run all accessories. A 100 amp alternator seems the minimum these days. Add more accessories and you need to upsize your alternator to 120 or so amps.
> 
> When undercharging, you get corrosion on the negative terminal. When overcharging, you get corrosion on the positive terminal. This would indicate to me I might want to upside my alternator.
> 
> ...



Yep, I think the guys have found a way to turn off and turn on what we perceive as normal full charge, via Forscan.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Oso954 said:


> I use the good old fashioned hydrometer, rather than a load tester.


I used to use both but the bulb died on my hydrometer and I haven't gotten around to replacing it. I just have a cheap harbor freight load tester but it's worked well over the last 30 yrs or so.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

mark sr said:


> I used to use both but the bulb died on my hydrometer and I haven't gotten around to replacing it. I just have a cheap harbor freight load tester but it's worked well over the last 30 yrs or so.


I also have the cheap Harbor Freight 100 amp load tester. Cost me less that $20 as I recall. Has the old school analog scale, color coded for "good" (green), "weak" (yellow) and "bad" (red). It tests the battery voltage, the alternator output and will simulate a load (crank test).

It puts a 100 amp load on the battery by running the current trough a calibrated coil. Push the switch for 8 seconds to simulate turning the crank to engage the starter. Check reading. If over 10.5V is left after the load test, then the battery has enough power to start the car.

It works good. Still have it somewhere in the garage, probably hanging on a hook. I would recommend it as a basic load tester. Nothing fancy, but it works.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Sounds like the same one I have. The 'chrome' on mine has turned a little rusty but it still works good. The new ones HF sells have a plastic case instead of steel. I don't know if the quality is the same or not. I know exactly were mine is hung on the wall. I use it at least several times every year.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

mark sr said:


> Sounds like the same one I have. The 'chrome' on mine has turned a little rusty but it still works good. The new ones HF sells have a plastic case instead of steel. I don't know if the quality is the same or not. I know exactly were mine is hung on the wall. I use it at least several times every year.


This is the one I have.

https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-6-volt12-volt-battery-load-tester-69888-9191.html


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I think mine looked like that .... once upon a time :smile:


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I recently got a Milton 1260, which is similar to the ones you guys posted. The Milton name was always good, although I suspect that most of them today come off the same line in China, just different packaging. I had access to an older carbon pile load tester for a number of years, and after that we always had a couple of this style at work that I would borrow when I needed it, but don't like borrowing, and almost never have borrowed anything else, so figured I was long past due. I still think though that the only good way to check an automotive type battery is under load, and carbon pile ones are too expensive and far between, so these make a reasonable second best, in my opinion.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Bigplanz said:


> This is the one I have.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp-6-volt12-volt-battery-load-tester-69888-9191.html


That is the ol hand held load tester. Had one for years. It does what most people need to do. Load test and see what charging system is doing voltage wise. But being in the auto tech field, I had to have something that does more so I got the one in the earlier post.:vs_cool:


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