# What To Do Help!



## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

In all honesty...just do fiberglass batts or cellulose in the walls and sheath the exterior will a nailbase foam panel before siding. If you get an R-10 foam layer on the exterior then, by code, you won't need a vapor barrier on the inside and can use un-faced batts.

For the roof, I would use a ventilated nail base foam panel with batt insulation along the rafters. Yes, it will cost more, but it is a complete thermally un-broken envelope that WILL payback over time. Remember, fuel costs are only going to go up, so the spending the $ now to insulate right will make you ready to withstand the fuel surges coming to a town near you...


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Kinda sorta like this: http://www.foamlaminates.com/images/Eave-Detail.gif

Though you'd have batt type insulation at the "post" and "rafter" areas and a ventilation channel above the roof foam and below the shingles for heat dissipation.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Rigid foam (1" minimum) exterior for complete thermal break. Get all your water management and air barrier details correct. 

2x6 walls, use a spray-able caulk to seal anything from the inside, spider fiberglass or wet spray cellulose and you will have a true R-25 wall (close to it at least with 1" iso).

Attic depends entirely on what you want to use it for. Spray-able caulk and R-50/60 cellulose is great.


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## algored2deth (Jan 7, 2011)

Sprayable caulk discussion is here in case you don't know the details.

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/air-sealing-sprayable-caulk


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