# Framing a basement ledge



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

nlexi912 said:


> I have just finished waterproofing my basement and am getting ready to frame. My question is how do I frame my basement ledge? My basement has the lower half concrete and upper half already framed and insulated with the ledge in between. The ledge is 5 1/4in adding to the 3 1/2in stud, do I put down a 2 x 10 on top of the concrete or maybe plywood? HELP, I'm afraid the 2 x 10 maybe to high and not give me much room between the window..


What you are referring to is the freezewall of your foundation.
I am not sure that I can understand what you mean by the measurements you gave. Whatever the case, I am posting some pics below to see it they help you at all:

FRAMING:








FINISHED: (Home Owner's paint job)










ANOTHER Example:









FINISHED:










nlexi912 said:


> Also, I was going to frame the basement and then call in the inspector. Is this ok or do I get the inspector first? I will be hiring electrical and plumbing. Maybe I get the inspector after framing, electrical and plumbing are all in. Thanks for you opinions.


If you are referring to getting a local building permit; Make sure that you have your permit prior to the start of this project. 

These are the inspections you will need:

*Electrical* - Done before the framing inspection is performed.
*Plumbing *- Done before the framing inspection is performed.

*Framing *- Inspected only after the electrical and plumbing inspections are signed off (Ok's). Then you can call and schedule your framing inspection.

*Insulation* - Done after the framing inspection has been signed off... After you insulate, call for the insulation inpsection.

*Final Inspection* - Done after all of the above.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Here is another picture where you can see a little more detail on the framing:










FWIW: This is not the only way to frame in a freezewall. You could also attach a 2x4 cleat on the flat along the existing home's framing. Then build a 2x4 knee-wall up to match the height of the cleat. From there, you could attach plywood across..... to 'lock' ..... the two together and create a solid surface to nail a finished wood top to. You could also attach a cross peice of 2x4 to 'lock' the knee-wall framing. In the bottom pic. What we ended up doing was fabricating a bracket out of scrap steel framing to form a 'band' with tabs on it and then used that with screws to 'lock' the knee-wall and make it rigid. (Wish I had taken some pics of that little 'doo-hicky')

That is how we framed in this area (knee-wall) to the left of the fireplace:


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## nlexi912 (Dec 27, 2006)

Thanks for the pictures, it does look something like that but the concrete bottom half of the wall is higher. It appears that maybe just using a 2 x 10 set on top of the concrete ledge would be ok and the easiest? I would imagine that this would have to be pressure treated also and because it is a basement I would still want to leave a 1-2in space between the concrete wall and new framing. So many inspections, I thought it was one person but I'm gathering that I will have to meet with many. Thanks so much.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

nlexi912 said:


> Thanks for the pictures, it does look something like that but the concrete bottom half of the wall is higher. It appears that maybe just using a 2 x 10 set on top of the concrete ledge would be ok and the easiest? I would imagine that this would have to be pressure treated also and because it is a basement I would still want to leave a 1-2in space between the concrete wall and new framing. So many inspections, I thought it was one person but I'm gathering that I will have to meet with many. Thanks so much.


Use PT when attaching directly to concrete.

Ususally there is a separate inspector for the wiring and the plumbing.
Other than that, it should most likely be the same person for everything else...


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## cderner (Jul 7, 2007)

I am about to embark on this same project. The framing makes sense, but I am wondering about running electrical along the concrete wall. Can you do this with the 2x4's turned the way they are in your pictures? Do they have shallow gang boxes for this purpose?

Thanks


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## crecore (Nov 2, 2005)

depending on where you are (basement?) and local codes, you may not be able to put outlets that low. Check that first before you sweat the details.

If you can you'd have to run it all in conduit so one cant drill or nail into the wire... and they make shallow (1.5" boxes) but with conduit they'd have to be metal and that would suck... some tight wiring.


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## dmaceld (Jul 4, 2007)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Use PT when attaching directly to concrete.


IRC 2006, Section R319.1 allows an exception that applies in this case:

"R319.1 Location required. Protection from decay shall be
provided in the following locations....

7. Wood furring strips or other wood framing members
attached directly to the interior of exterior masonry walls
or concrete walls below grade except where an approved
vapor retarder is applied between the wall and the furring
strips or framing members."

Considering the poor quality of PT lumber these days, its cost, and its propensity to twist and turn, I think nlexi912 would be better off to use a good grade of 2x with either poly sheeting or roofing felt between the 2x and the concrete.

This is assuming the local jurisdiction has adopted the IRC and the local inspector understands the limited circumstances where PT is truly required.

cderner - What you have to watch out for when using 2x4s on flat like you're suggesting, is the free space in front of the wires. The wires must be at least 1 1/4" behind the wall board, or be mechanically protected by conduit or metal nailing strips.


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## diypatrick (Nov 14, 2011)

*insulation?*

how come there is no insulation behind the studs to seperate the concrete (and the cold/heat) from the interior? I'm doing this project as well but using XPS extruded polystyrene insulation attached to that concrete


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