# Corner Bead for Double Drywall?



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Not 100% sure, but that metal (or plastic) bead with the paper wings would probably work ok. 

Hopefully bjbatlanta will weigh in, he's our sheetrock guru!


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

You can use a wide paper tape like this.
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/copy_of_Strait_Flex_Wide_Flex4_100__Roll.html
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/copy_of_Strait_Flex_Big.html
http://www.all-wall.com/acatalog/copy_of_Strait_Flex_Huge.html


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The regular "sticks" of paper/metal available at HD or Lowes (USG is one mfgr.) should cover. I think they're close to 2" wide. It is applied with joint compound. The best way to insure coverage is to overlap the walls one way on the first layer, then the other way on the second. You end up with just having to cover a 5/8" (nominal) overlap as opposed to a 1-1/4" overlap. Pretty much any type of "mud on" bead would work then. No need to worry about "extra wide". As Jerry pointed out though, there are "extra wide" options available.......
(Why the double layer, by the way?? Firecode requirements or just something you wanted for your own reasons?)


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## whipper (Aug 10, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. 

Since the drywall is already up, I think that I would have to use the extra-wide ones that jerryh3 mentioned. I think I saw a 100' 4" wide paper with metal strips roll at HD. My concern is that it will not withstand the occasional bump. 

Are these as strong as regular metal bead or plastic bead?

The double 5/8" drywall is only on the ceiling. It acts as a sound dampener. I also have Green Glue between the sheets, and 1 layer on insulation stuffed in the cavities. The idea is that I can put a TV in the basement and watch it at reasonably loud volumes without waking up the rest of the house.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

What you need is "wide-leg corner bead", for example scroll down to Trim-Tex Inc. "Jumbo Corner Bead" here: http://www.trim-tex.com/catalog/cbeads.htm

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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Understand the reasoning for the double layer. It will help somewhat, however sound transmits through the fasteners so you'll still have some. I can't speak for the plastic bead, but "mud on" beads usually do hold up as well as metal beads in the "bump" department and often better when you get lumber shrinkage and metal bead tends to "pop" off.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

whipper said:


> Hi,
> 
> I used double 5/8" drywall in many areas of my basement refinish, and I am kinda stuck on figuring what type of corner bead to use. The standard metal or plastic corner bead are too small for a screw to hit a stud.
> 
> ...


Cross lap the pieces as suggested, and use either the paper backed bead (not my favorite) or standard metal bead.

It is easiest installed with a crimper like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000A14RH 
Screws are not often used... but some should be, for security, as BJ points out below.

I wouldn't even concern myself with trying to get screws into studs that may be too far back to hit properly... all that usually does is mess up your alignment.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sorry to disagree Willie. The main use for corner bead "crimp-on" tools SHOULD be to correctly align the metal bead prior to adding fasteners, not as a permanent attachment before applying compound. It was intended for commercial application with metal stud framing. It's a pain to put bead on with screws and get the screws set properly/keep the bead aligned/get the screws to pull up flush... I've got an 1-1/4" and an 1-1/8" crimper (they used to make both sizes of bead, one for 1/2" and one for 5/8" rock) tossed in the shop somewhere collecting dust that haven't seen use in years. I've seen "crimped on" metal bead knocked completely off the wall (moving a large piece of furniture through a small hallway) as opposed to being bent and "fixable" when fasteners are used in some way. All the "crimper" does is to punch a small piece of the metal edge of the bead through the paper into the gypsum "core". There's no holding power there. I'm an "old school" drywaller (still believe firmly in glue and nails as opposed to screws), but I have "turned the corner" (pun intended) and firmly believe in the "mud on" beads. There's nowhere near the "callbacks" for "popped" bead after the expected lumber "shrinkage". Often the problem/frustration with using them is getting them applied properly. Mud needs to be thinned and applied liberally under the bead. The edge must be "wiped" down firmly to get the bead to adhere properly and allowed to dry THOROUGHLY before applying the next two coats. There is a roller that is a very useful tool for applying this bead (available at all-wall.com [thanks for the above link jerryh3]). Probably not worth the investment for a few sticks of bead for DIY'er (I think about $60.00 for the "generic/house brand").


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## whipper (Aug 10, 2009)

Thanks for the input guys. I should have come here beforei started drywalling. :thumbsup:


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## whipper (Aug 10, 2009)

After some additional reading, I have a general follow up question on applying paper corner bead.

Currently I am using Durabond 90 for the base coat of seams and butts. I intend on using Sheetrock 90 for the second coat, and all-purpose for the final coat(s). I have been reading that the all-purpose should be used for applying paper corners. Is there any negatives for using the Durabond in the corners for metal or paper? I would assume that that the Durabond would make the corner more rigid, no?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

It will, as you say, set harder and should give you a more durable corner. No problem using setting type compounds for corners....


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