# framing out a wall around a chimney



## pjm (Apr 11, 2008)

I am redoing my kitchen and I need to frame a wall in the corner of the room around the corner of the chimney. I only need it to cover the chimney and use as a nailer for hanging sheetrock. Any advice on how to go about this would be great as I have to get it inspected by the town. I've found a few articles online and they have pointed me in the right direction, but I want to make sure I get it right so I don't have to do it twice. If I didn't give enough information just let me know what you need to give suggestions and I'll do my best to come up with it. I can post some photo's if that would help.


Thanks.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Post some photos just so we're all on the same page.

Assuming that the wall is not load bearing and is only for aesthetics? Are you just wanting to cover up the brick on the kitchen side? If so, good. You can just simply frame a wall out of 2x4's, and leave a couple inches of clearance between the brick and the studs. 

If it is in fact load-bearing, that will change everything.


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## pjm (Apr 11, 2008)

*Not weight bearing at all*

The wall will just be to cover the chimney on the kitchen side. It will not be for anything other than to hold sheetrock. It would be about 20" from each wall making a corner to cover the brick. 

Thanks for the reply.

Also would you know if this would be considered framing and need to be inspected by the town? I know most codes vary from town to town, but if it needs to be inspected I want to do it right.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Yes, it will need to be permitted and inspected in most jurisdictions. The code has firestopping requirements that must be checked on any wall. Call your local building office and tell them your plan, and they can advise whether or not they want to see it.

Firestopping involves filling the gap between the top plate and the brick with unfaced fiberglass insulation to slow the vertical to horizontal movement of fire, smoke, or air in the event of a fire. Typically you can tightly roll the fiberglass and stuff it in the gap. Wood blocking (2x dimension or 3/4" plywood) is a better option for larger gaps.


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

What's the chimney used for? Is there a fireplace that uses it? You may not need the two inches if there is an approved liner and it's only used for low temperature devices such as gas appliances. If there is a fireplace than no question, you need to two inch clearance.


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## pjm (Apr 11, 2008)

The chimney is only used for the furnace and there's a liner in it so there's no risk of heat or anything like that. I was just looking for the basic construction of it. As I said I found some stuff on the internet and it seems pretty straight forward so I don't think it will be a problem. I'm just worried about doing it and then when it's inspected it's all wrong and I have to do it again.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

If it is a furnace flue, just keep your framing at least an inch from it and you should be in good shape. 

The very best thing you could do for yourself is take a couple pictures and set up a time to meet the inspector at his office, or see if he'll come by before you start the work. I'm always eager to help out DIY-ers in my jurisdiction before they start their work because we can identify things that might cause them to have an issue during construction.


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## pjm (Apr 11, 2008)

Well i'm just about ready to begin making the corner frame (I had to lay some plywood on the floor first) I have one question: The beams in the ceiling won't line up with where the top of the wall is going to be. How would I go about remedying this? Can I put a 2x4 inbetween the beams and use it as a nailer for the top of the wall? As I said before it's just a wall to cover the chimney so it's not going to be wieght bearing in any way just to hang sheetrock on. Any advice you could give me would be great. 

Thanks.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Yes, you can install blocking between the floor joists to facilitate nailing the wall's top plate to the blocking. I would suggest using screws to minimize the risk of floor squeaks due to the added blocking and the framing under the joists. Nails will sometimes squeak when the joists deflect as you walk on them.


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## pjm (Apr 11, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> Yes, you can install blocking between the floor joists to facilitate nailing the wall's top plate to the blocking. I would suggest using screws to minimize the risk of floor squeaks due to the added blocking and the framing under the joists. Nails will sometimes squeak when the joists deflect as you walk on them.


 
So use screws to hold the nailer in place to the joists and then use nails on the wall? How far should I space these nailers 12 or 16 inches? The wall is only going to be about a 20x20 corner. Can I use screws to construct the wall too? Also one last question (until I think of another!) is there a certain nail size to use? I was thinking 10d nails for the wall, but if I can use screws I would rather do that. As stated above I need this to pass a framing inspection by the town. 

Thanks for all your helpful answers so far.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

As far as the inspection is concerned, nails are the safe answer. I'd use 12's. 

If it is not load-bearing, there's no reason why the inspector should expect nails. For that matter, the heads will go through the plates and won't be visible anyway. Screws will work every bit as well. If we're only talking about 20" of wall at a corner, just put a nailer at each end and the corner.


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## pjm (Apr 11, 2008)

Thanks I'll give it a try tonight.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

If There Was A Flue Liner In The Brick Chim. I Would Of Just Taken 5/8 Drywall And Glued The Drywall To The Brick With Joint Compound, Set The Metal Bead With Setting Compund And Spackle Tape , All None Combustale.
Hint (put A Good Amount Of Compound On The Brick And Press The Drywall To The Brick With A Level Checking As You Go. ) All The Above Posts Are All Great, But When You Need All The Room You Can Get This Is Another Idea


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