# Painting T-111



## ttinman23 (Mar 27, 2014)

I am having a cabin built up in a pasture field with T-111. Any input on what the best exterior paint to use would be greatly appreciated....Also is the paint and primer all in one sufficient enough. Thx


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

A paint/primer product would still need primer, as your dealing with raw wood. Personally I would use a solid stain on it, such as Sherwin williams woodscapes Primer would not be necessary, as it's a stain. If you want to use paint I would prime it with Sherwin williams a100 exterior wood primer and paint with Sherwin williams exterior superpaint.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I agree and would avoid paint unless you enjoy scraping peeling paint in a few years.
Make 100% that T-111 is at least 6" away from any grade stoop, deck, ECT or the splash back will rot it out.


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

housepaintingny said:


> I would use a *solid stain* on it... Primer would not be necessary


^^What he said.

I just did my garage project using OLYMPIC latex stain (@ $120 a pail).
It did a terrific job.


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## ttinman23 (Mar 27, 2014)

Joecaption, Im sorry to sound ignorant, but what exactly do you mean?.....Did you mean the splash from applying the stain would rot the deck etc.... Wouldn't it be ok to stain that as well? thanks


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

No what he means is T111 is noted for rotting out along the bottom from water splashing on the bottom when it rains, or if it's to close to touching the ground it will wick moisture up in the bottom of the wood.


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## ttinman23 (Mar 27, 2014)

thanks too seeker and joe


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## merle (Dec 18, 2007)

Just keep the t1-ll from contacting the ground and you should be fine. Ive painted a lot of t1-11 and never had any problems with the paint peeling, Just do not put it on too thick. Two thin coats are better. enjoy!!


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## John in NC (Aug 10, 2012)

I have an old 8x12 shed with T-111 siding that was in disrepair. I patched in some new T-111 sheets where needed and then primed/ painted 4 years ago. 
I used Sherwin Williams oil based primer then 2 topcoats of latex Sherwin Williams, holding up great. 
I used thick paint brushes to really work the primer and paint into the deep vertical grooves and to cut in around the trim, then went over it all with a thick nap roller, it was a pain to do that through 3 coats but I felt it was worthwhile to really work the paint into the grooves. 

Get the bottoms of the boards really good, work the paint or stain up under the edges to prevent water from wicking up into the wood and rotting it. 
I'm going to hit it with another topcoat this coming Spring....


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

You are aware Hardie makes a fiber cement board that looks like T-111.


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## sgryan (Nov 13, 2014)

*T-111 project 2005 revisited in 2014*

I agree with toolseeker. One of the biggest problems with T-111 is the delamination of the Plywood. The water can wick up the wood and delaminate over time.















2005

I do not recommend a traditional oil primer. Although, oil primer will soak in and form a good initial coating. After a few months or seasons, the properties of the oil primer product become less flexible and even brittle. 

Everyday the substrate is expanding and contracting with the weather, temperature and humidity; the oil primer can't keep up. When you examine the cut ends after a few year you will notice the plywood is splitting. This is where the water wicks into the wood. 

I recommend one of the bonding primers from XIM, Zinsser and Mad Dog Primer. Once applied these products are design to stay flexible. 

One coat of the above primers and 1 - 2 coats of paint [COLOR=blue !important][/COLOR]should give the project a longer life.








Here is the same area about 10 years later. Although not smooth and exceedingly ugly, the substrate has not peeled or delaminated. My 20 years of experience in the field makes me confident traditional oil or latex primer would not perform as well.















Instead of a full paint job, this is just a touch project to maintain the property.

Good Luck, Steve


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## Will22 (Feb 1, 2011)

T1-11 siding requires regular maintenance, regardless of whether you paint or stain it.


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## bhensley (Sep 12, 2017)

I had this same problem, I live in the Oregon and was told I needed a belly band with some Z flashing installed. Had no idea how to do it, and after doing some research realized some pictures and a small tutorial was needed. If I can figure out how to link it I will, but I hope this help... figured others are bound to have similar problems. 


Cheers,
Brian


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## bhensley (Sep 12, 2017)

Actually learned some good stuff from This Old House, I recommend checking it out on Youtube or my blog post where I shared the video. 

brianhensley.net/2015/09/how-to-replace-rotted-t1-11-siding-with.html

Cheers,
Brian


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## bhensley (Sep 12, 2017)

bhensley said:


> I had this same problem, I live in the Oregon and was told I needed a belly band with some Z flashing installed. Had no idea how to do it, and after doing some research realized some pictures and a small tutorial was needed. If I can figure out how to link it I will, but I hope this help... figured others are bound to have similar problems.
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Brian


Okay so it was requiring me to add a couple posts before I could link a URL. So here is the post >> http://www.brianhensley.net/2015/09/how-to-replace-rotted-t1-11-siding-with.html


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