# Filling skip sheathing



## MJJ (Jun 13, 2008)

We are replacing our old and tired cedar shake roof with lightweight cement tiles. We are starting to put on 1/2" CDX and have some idea what to do but there are some holes in our knowledge! Please feel free to help...


In some areas the existing skip sheathing (furring strips) are not located beneath the nailing location. I think it's a bad idea to nail into an unfilled gap. Am I right? Can we insert a small spacer block under there or do we need a full length filler?
I think I understand the standard nailing to be every 6" around the outside of the sheet and every 12" down inside rows (along the rafters). Do we need to nail in between rafters too?
Somewhere I got the idea that when fitting panels, they need to be a minimum of 4' wide, or spanning 3 rafters. Is this right? What about at hips? Does the long edge have to be a minimum of 4', or is it the short edge?
Can I use 1x3 as fill material, either as blocks or for longer runs (for edge nailing for example)?
I want to move my a/c unit, basically trying to hide it behind the chimney. How close to the chimney can I go?
There is a little bit of wiggle along our fascia, to be expected of a 50 year old house I suppose. We decided to snap a chalk line that seemed to be the best fit along the bottom, and align our CDX to that line. Is that the best way to start? I'm expecting to hide any gaps there with a bit of flashing.
Thanks


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

If you are resheathing OVER the skip sheeting you can basically ignore all of those criteria since you are going on top of an existing solid deck. There is a big difference between sheeting over rafters and trusses and resheathing. 

Make sure your joints are staggered and if you can, try to make sure all your horizontal joints are over the skip sheeting. Leaving them floating isn't disastrous but it just isn't right in my eyes. I also try to avoid anything under four feet wide at the rakes, I just like that extra support inside the exterior wall. Other than that, since you already have a solid deck it doesn't really matter how big, small, neat it is, as long as you can nail it solid to the skip sheeting.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I would like to just add, that I do require the vertical side laps to wind up on top of the rafter below, even if it requires additional cutting to ensure a proper fit.

I have seen too many other jobs where they Only nail wherever the wood sheathing winds up and then the 8 penny nails begin to come loose from a less structurally sound location, such as only through the skip sheathing alone.

Other than that, you sound like a very well informed DIY and are already on your way of doing a better job than, (In MY Opininion), over 90 % of the so-called wanna-bee roofing contractors out there.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Ed


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## MJJ (Jun 13, 2008)

Thanks guys, I want to do a good job... after all, why put a 100 year tile over a 15 year underlayment?



OldNBroken said:


> If you are resheathing OVER the skip sheeting you can basically ignore all of those criteria since you are going on top of an existing solid deck. There is a big difference between sheeting over rafters and trusses and resheathing.


Aha, here's something I was thinking about yesterday after posting. It's true I am going over an existing solid deck. Mostly. 

I say mostly because there are some areas with termite damage and dry rot. We are removing that material of course. (None of the areas is bigger than a few square feet.) But then is the existing deck considered solid? We have just been blocking under those areas rather than completely replacing the skip sheath. Do you think that's OK?


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