# villager missing on cylinder 5



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

95 villager. It is missing on cylinder 5. I isolated the problem by pulling plug wires off the distributor until tbere was no difference off or on. I put an inline spark checker on the distributor and spark is leaving the distributor. Either the wire or plug are bad. Or the fuel injector is bad. Anything I'm missing?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Distributor cap has crack. 
Distributor point is bad on 5.
Rotor needs to be cleaned.
Wait till real dark, pop hood open, start engine, and spray saopy water onto wires and dizzy. See what happens.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ukrkoz said:


> Distributor cap has crack.
> Distributor point is bad on 5.
> Rotor needs to be cleaned.
> Wait till real dark, pop hood open, start engine, and spray saopy water onto wires and dizzy. See what happens.


I checked those first. Cap and rotor are like new. Replaced less than 10k miles ago.

I should have mentioned that.

Plus there is spark at terminal 5. Inline tester blinked normally.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Plug, injector, vacuum leak, mechanical defect on that cylinder. Swap / replace plugs first. Measure the resistance of the injectors (they should be ± 10%). Spray carb cleaner to the intake to check for vacuum leak.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Plug was oil soaked. I cleaned it, regapped it and put it back in for now. I will replace it this weekend. Now to determine source of oil fouling.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

One way
Or another
It is a spark plug
It is a spark plug, spark plug...

If plug is in plug tube, it's bad tube seal. If it's direct into engine head, it's bad head gasket. Have fun replacing that.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Since the oil isn't contaminated with coolant i am guessing bad valve seals. Do spark plug foulers work?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Does it smoke blue when stepped on gas? Who says bad head gasket will nerecessily leak oil into coolant? It all depends where the burn through or rupture is. 
I had several engines with notoriously bad valve stem seals, none of them fouled plugs at threads.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Big, bad valve stem seals or bad head gasket - you still have to pull that side head off. It's no smaller labor, unless you one of those magicians that knows how to replace valve stem seals without head removal. IF it is the right guess, which I doubt it is.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

"Ain't no magic spell gonna fix this one, main!"

Overheard 20 years ago when 2 guys were trying to get an old le mans running. 

I'm replacing the plug this morning and testing the injector.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Yeah, tricksters run compressed air inside combustion chamber to keep valve up and then manage to replace stem seals. Brrrrr.... 
Keep us posted.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

ukrkoz said:


> Yeah, tricksters run compressed air inside combustion chamber to keep valve up and then manage to replace stem seals. Brrrrr....
> Keep us posted.


I have a snapon tool just for this purpose. Hose with adapter threads into spark plug hole. Cylinder needs to be at TDC on compression stroke so both valves are closed. Plug in airline to hose and it pressurizes the cylinder. Tool looks like a hand held impact driver. Sit it squarely on the top of the valve spring and hit it with a hammer. It compresses the spring and is magnetized inside to grab the collet and keepers. Remove spring(s) and replace valve seal. Special insert goes into tool. Reassemble valves spring, collet and set keepers into collet. Tool goes on top of this and insert goes in between keepers. Give it another smack with a hammer and it puts everything back together. Very easy to use, no magic involved. I bought this tool almost 40 years ago when I worked in a motorcycle shop. Some of the chrome finish had peeled off. My son is a auto tech, so he took it to work and gave it to the snapon guy. He gave me a complete new tool, updated and improved. Was surprised to see the old one. Probably put it in their museum.
Mike Hawkins


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Oil seepage is not my main concern. The cylinder is dead and van is dying in traffic. I dropped it off yesterday at the shop; i don't have the time or ability to fix this one.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Injector 3 and 5 are bad.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Anybody replaced injectors under the intake plenum on a villager/quest? $700 repair estimate has me looking at diy options.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

You have already had the plenum off. Not much to replacing the injectors after that


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

47_47 said:


> Plug, injector, vacuum leak, mechanical defect on that cylinder. Swap / replace plugs first. Measure the resistance of the injectors (they should be ± 10%). Spray carb cleaner to the intake to check for vacuum leak.


Spray a shot of carb cleaner at the 3 and 5 manifold connections. Leaks there will be taking in air only without fuel.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I haven't had the plenum off. Cylinder 3 and 5 injectors test bad on an ohm meter. Neither cylinder is firing. No wonder it was dying in traffic.

Guy said the book was five hours labor, plus two injectors. $688.55 total. I told him i'd call him back monday.

This is a very reputable shop.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Sorry mixed you up with the spark plug thread. That really is a reasonably price for a good shop. Here labor is around $100 an hour give or take.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> Injector 3 and 5 are bad.


Bad as in dead or bad as in dirty and clogged? Of course it's a Ford, and for rear injector you have to remove plenum, sure.. Plenums are not that hard to remove though...



 
 _1 _ _Determine which fuel injector your Mercury Villager will need. This depends not only on the make and model, but also the engine size. Models made from 1993 to 1998 have a 3.0L VG30E engine and models made after 1998 have a 3.3L VG33E engine._


 _2_ _Relieve the system fuel pressure and disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Remove the upper intake manifold if you are replacing a rear fuel injector. Unplug the electrical connectors for the fuel injector._


 _3_ _Remove the cap screws and the cap for the fuel injector with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the fasteners with a socket wrench and pull the fuel injector out of the fuel rail. Discard the old O-ring seals and insulators._


 _4_ _Install the new fuel injector with new insulators and O-ring seals. Use a torque wrench to tighten the fasteners for the fuel injectors to between 8 and 11 foot pounds. Torque the cap screws for the fuel injector to between 26 and 33 inch pounds._


_ 5 __Complete the installation by reversing the removal procedure and start the vehicle and check for fuel leaks._



 
*Instructions*



*Remove the Intake Manifold*


 _1_ _Drain the cooling system and relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Disconnect the negative battery cable, the air intake duct, the IAC valve connectors, the throttle position sensor and switch connectors, and the EGR solenoid valve._


 _2_ _Pull the EVAP canister vacuum and purge hoses, the vacuum hoses from the EVAP, the brake cylinder, pressure regulator and EGR tube. Tag and disconnect the spark plug wires. Remove the distributor cap._


 _3_ _Take out the three left bank injector connectors, the thermal transmitter, the ground harness, breather pipe and the upper manifold. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines and plug them with golf tees to prevent fuel spillage._


 _4_ _Locate the right injector harness connectors and disconnect them as well as the fuel rail and injectors. Remove the coolant temperature switch harness connector and the water hose from the thermostat._


 _5_ _Loose the bolts on the lower manifold in sequence. Remove the bolts and left the intake manifold from the engine. Remove the gasket and discard it._


 _6_ _Clean the mating surfaces by scraping the old gasket material and carbon deposits. Clean the surfaces with solvent and inspect them for damage._


*Install the Intake Manifold*


 _7_ _Put a new gasket in place and install the lower intake manifold to the engine. Tighten the bolts in sequence as follows: first pass-35 inch pounds; second pass-78 inch pounds and third pass 70 to 84 inch pounds._


 _8_ _Connect the ECT sensor connector, the fuel supply manifold and the right bank injector connectors. Connect the fuel lines and then install the upper intake manifold. Put the breather pipe in position._


 _9_ _Install the intake manifold ground cable, the thermal transmitter, the left bank injector connectors and the distributor. Reconnect the spark plug wires._


 _10_ _Continue reconnecting all the components, reversing the order in which they were removed. Connect the negative battery cable to the terminal. Refill the cooling system with the appropriate coolant._


_ 11 __Start the engine. Check for fuel or vacuum leaks._



Btw, never realized Villager and Nissan Quest were same cars. Go figure. 

 
​


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

One important aspect of diy is knowing when a job isn't diy. Paid for this one. Van runs great. They even fixed my loose gear shifter at no charge.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

I guess so. Not sure, why, but man is a man only when he makes his OWN decisions. I'd have DIY-d it. Not much to this.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I'm ok with getting it done. I have a pretty good job. Cost/benefit calculations and all that. If I was broke I would have given it a shot. I replaced a starter in a parking garage a couple years ago because I had no choice. This go around I did.


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