# I need suggestions on lifting corner of house to replace sill plate/rim board



## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

Do I need a professional to do this or is this something I can do? I have at least 13' or a little less to replace on east side and about 3' on north side. See pictures. In the picture you are looking at 7' of exposed is shown and about 6' more if the wood under sliding patio door is rotted. I found some places where I can rent screw jacks. I am doing all the work on my house now so this is just one more thing. I just want some opinions from anyone who has been around or tried this kind of repair. I have all the tools to do the repair and I understand how to fix it. I just need to raise it up enough to get the load off of it. Any thoughts? Thanks


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Floors happen to be coming out on the inside?


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

floors are fine inside the house. One of the earlier close up pictures shows damage of the subfloor wood but only on the ends of 3 pieces. The damage is not mushy like the sill and rim board. It feels hard.I took some more stucco off working to the left under the sliding patio door and the very next piece that was exposed had no damage. See new picture. So from the corner of the house 8' in of a possible 13' overall length these are the only 3 pieces damaged. I am going to remove the rest of stucco under sliding patio door and the portion of concrete patio under sliding door this week to expose the rest of this area. If you look at the 2nd picture I inserted this morning the left side of the patio sliding door underneath has no damage so the problem stops somewhere under that sliding door.
From what I have read on the internet about raising houses most of the articles recommended 4 - 20 ton jacks on each wall. I am only dealing with the north end of this wall so I was thinking 2 - 20 ton jacks would lift it just enough. I am also going to go into the crawlspace and look around for visible damage.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

With the concrete higher than the wood, that is a recipe for future rot as well. The house can be temporarily supported with a temp wall in the crawl space. I would not advise lifting it, but just hold it up and remove/replace the damaged areas. Lifting will just cause more cracking in the stucco.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

sixeightten said:


> With the concrete higher than the wood, that is a recipe for future rot as well. The house can be temporarily supported with a temp wall in the crawl space. I would not advise lifting it, but just hold it up and remove/replace the damaged areas. Lifting will just cause more cracking in the stucco.


Thanks - I am currently removing concrete patio and taking elevation down to the levels it should have been back in 1965. Would you explain some things for me. So if I use 20 ton bottle jacks and just snug them as part of a temp wall will the new lumber go in without a fight? Everything I have read seems to say that I need an 1/8" or less of a gap so after replacement it basically sits back down on the new lumber. It also sounds like the current nuts and washers holding sill plate could be a problem from rust/time getting them out.If they have to be cut what do I use as replacement?


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## MJ Force (Jan 1, 2013)

Is there another storrey above the affected wall? Just thinking about weight. Which way do the joist run to the longest affected wall? 

I have lifted sides/corners of houses before by using 2x4 studs under each joist. You only need to lift about a 1/4"-1/2" or less. 

Place and nail securely a 2x4 across the underside of the joist about 2' from the rim joist. Toe nail slightly longer 2x4's against the 2x4 strapping and under each joist. Cut each stud 1/2"-1" longer than needed. Place a short peice of 1x4 flat on the crawl space floor. Use 1x4 because you may need to increase the size if you need more lift. The 1x4 will help the "wedge studs" to slide as you tap each stud. 

Essentially you are using a wedge to lift the building. Each 2x4 stud is tapped into position until they are vertical. Remember to release any anchors which may prevent the floor from raising. After you have removed and replaced the rotting rim joist, lower the floor. You can then repair any rotting flooring or wall studs. 

I've used this method when a beam and jacks were not practical for lifting.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

You should get his repair permitted because when you take out the existing sill plate(s) the anchors will not be in use anymore. Therefor you need an alternative to the anchors.
Simpson makes a few devices that should suffice but you ought perhaps to run the idea through your Building department.

Which city are you in anyway?

Andy.
P.S. I forgot to mention that your best bet is to lift lightly using the bottle jacks and a 4x8 beam from the crawl space.
I have done quite a bit of this.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

AndyGump said:


> You should get his repair permitted because when you take out the existing sill plate(s) the anchors will not be in use anymore. Therefor you need an alternative to the anchors.
> Simpson makes a few devices that should suffice but you ought perhaps to run the idea through your Building department.
> 
> Which city are you in anyway?
> ...


2.) If I have to replace at the most 13' of sill and rim joist how long should a 4x8 beam be in the crawl space, how many bottle jacks and what tonnage for bottle jacks? The 2nd story is built over this corner I am repairing.
3.) Are you doing all your lifting with bottle jacks all at once because some of these articles discussing lifting with screw jacks recommend lifting in small increments to try and keep from creating damage to other parts of the house. They even recommended waiting for 24 hrs each time I try to lift the house a little more. I know that may be time consuming but I am retired and am in no hurry. I have other work to do in addition to this. Plus I read its also a little touchy with a bottle jack because when I lower it the control lowering device doesnt always allow it to slowly come down. But I also understand I am not raising it very much. What do you think? You said you have done a few of these.
3.) I am sure the building inspector has dealt with this kind of problem before. Are they pretty cooperative when it comes to this kind of repair being done by a homeowner versus recommending a professional?
4.) I also assume the new rim joist will use some kind of Simpson tie. 
5.) Do you recommend a pressure treated wood for sill plate. Problem that caused rotting will be gone when job is finished.
6.) I am slowly jackhammerring my concrete patio out and removing dirt to bring down elevation 6" or more below vents. Is city going to require permit for me removing concrete patio and dirt? I am probably going down 8 to 10" with removal of concrete and dirt.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

You will not be lifter per se, just maintaining the the height.
I would use a 4x8 12' beam with 4x6 or 6x6 cribbing. The beam with cribbing will hold that portion of the house up, the jacks are just for lifting temporarily.
Make sure you have a good wide, solid base for your jacks (2 of) and put some pressure on them raising the floor joists slightly.
Shim between the beam and cribbing so the floor joist will not lower, then release the bottle jack pressure.
house should then be sitting on the beam and cribbing.
Take out the offending sill plate and cut out the existing anchors bolts, install new pressure treated sill plate with foundation plates from Simpson.
Raise the floor with the jacks slightly and remove the beam/cribbing.

Sounds easy doesn't it?

Andy.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

Sounds easy doesnt it? <---- ha ha - It will be easier when you answer these questions. I understand maintaining the height versus raising it. I live in Cypress. 
1.) I assume the 12' beam you recommend is based on the fact that my problem is 13' long. Correct?
2.) I think the only way I can get a beam in my crawlspace is through the vent. Crawlspace access is in a bedroom closet.
3.) What do you use for a solid base for jacks? 
4.) Are 12" pieces long enough for cribbing?
5.) How many stacks of cribbing do I place along the length of the beam?
6.) How far in from the end of the beam do you put the cribbing?
7.) the bottle jacks are placed under the ends of the beam?
8.) what size tonnage for bottle jacks? The 2nd story is above this corner.
9.) Does the city inspector have a problem with homeowners doing this kind of repair versus hiring a professional? And I guess he should be okay with Simpson ties.I dont think there is anything else to use. 
10.) When the bottle jack is tight against the beam is that what you mean by maintaining the height or do you jack it up a little more?
11.) I am tearing out old concrete patio and removing dirt.Is the inspector going to make me get a permit to do that?
12.) Do I use pressure treated green wood or pressure treated wood is fine? The elevation problem that caused rotting will be fixed when all of this repair is finished.


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## RWolff (Jan 27, 2013)

I have had to do this on my house because the kitchen once was a back porch that was converted to a kitchen in the 50s, they used the porch deck for the floor, complete with it's crazy sized joists made from salvaged lumber- a 3x10 next to a 2x6 which was next to a 2x8 and you get the idea.
The "foundation" was several sections of 12"x12" 8' long beams salvaged from some barn or something- laid on some flat rocks on the bare ground. The walls etc nailed to the tops of those.
Over the years those 12x12s rotted out from the bottoms to the center and the floor was 4" off level as the wall and floor sunk that far down. I jacked up the floor with the wall slowly with floor jacks and replaced the floor, joists, plates, and installed a concrete footing with a concrete block wall to the height needed.
That took care of the problem, it CAN be done by you and hopefully you wont have to jack 4" to get a level floor like I did.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

OP.... I have much less and limited eperience here, but I think you have been given great advice.

Personnally, I have quazi-lifted, more taken the weight off, rotted mud sills, sawzalled studs and anchors out, and driven/pounded new short pieces of mud sill in. It sounds intimidating, but it's not.

However, in orange county Cali, I do have some thoughts for your consideration.

We had to raise my son's foundation about 5.5" in (let's just say S of Laguna). The issue was different (foundation and we ran with helical piering verse jacking/shimming the framing), but in asking around, at least in our city, had we permitted the work, and there really is no AHJ expertise involved in this application, they likely would have required a whole new underpining to our stem wall foundation.(Earthquake country)

Now, I believe in safety and all, but we are improving the property for about 20K, but permitted we would have been maybe 70-80K. I might add this single story has been fine for 64+ years,.

No idea about your city jurisdiction, just for your info


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

MTN REMODEL LLC - After you cut the studs off did you replace them? 

I just figured I would drill into existing foundation and cement them in. Once the old boards are removed I think theres enough room to drill in there. I only have 3 to replace. 
I am also going to purchase some Simpson ties for added stationary support. As you can see I ask a lot of questions before I attack the problem. I want to know all the answers so I can do it right, do it once and be done. 
Like I said earlier the whole problem with the damage was created by concrete poured on an elevation that was never graded. My knowledge of construction 26 years ago when I bought this house was limited. Looking back I should have graded the whole yard but I had no money left after I bought this house. I have some great ideas how to fix this from input here and just reading articles on the internet.
I was crawling around the crawlspace today and the subfloor is in perfect condition so the damage in the picture hopefully didnt venture to far into the wood. The sill plate and rim joist look fine from the crawlspace view but as we can all see its got to come out. If I had not put rain gutters around my whole house years ago and had the help of 3 foot eaves around the whole house the damage could have been much worse. 
I did not renew my 24 hr membership yet. I bought me a used Bosch Brute electric jackhammer because the whole yard needs to be graded down 8 to 10 inches. I can jackhammer at my own leisure.I have already started the job and its working very well. Its just a lot of manual labor but this is how I roll. I should have my head examined. If anyone can answer some of my earlier questions I would be very appreciative. Like what size (tonnage) bottle jack will slightly lift the corner of my house with a 2nd story on it. I am going to buy 2 -20 ton bottle jacks unless someone thinks something smaller will work.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Paul...... My walls were not open, so after I cut the studs loose to get the mud sill out/in, depending on their integrity and level of rot, several I shimmed under, and several I sistered on, using both screws and PL.

I'm not an engineer, but I would think two 20 ton jacks would be plenty.
(I actually used a combiation of jacks I already have. One was a heavy geared down sissors that I have no idea of it's rating, and several car bottle jacks that I would guess were maybe 3 ton. It was a single story.)

I was really just supporting and taking the weight off the mudsill. I had to pound/tap the new mudsill in with a 5lb. In one I even put a slight taper to start it in.

Good luck


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

AndyGump said:


> You will not be lifter per se, just maintaining the the height.
> I would use a 4x8 12' beam with 4x6 or 6x6 cribbing. The beam with cribbing will hold that portion of the house up, the jacks are just for lifting temporarily.
> Make sure you have a good wide, solid base for your jacks (2 of) and put some pressure on them raising the floor joists slightly.
> Shim between the beam and cribbing so the floor joist will not lower, then release the bottle jack pressure.
> ...


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