# ball valve leaking



## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

You might have to replace the entire valve, if you cannot replace the seal where the handle is.


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## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

The nut on top of the handle does nothing but hold the handle on. Go ahead and remove that nut and the handle. Then tighten the nut underneath (packing nut). You don't have to kill it, just snug it a bit. If that doesn't stop the leak it's easiest to just replace the valve. I have to tighten that nut on almost every ball valve I install. Some little guy in China I'm sure thinks it's hilarious to make extra work for the Americans.


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## bwall (May 29, 2007)

Thanks for the replies! The last one was pretty humorous!


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## jdoherty (May 30, 2007)

*did you solder the ball valve*

did you open the valve when you soldered it?
did you put too much solder on the joint that it ran into the ball opening and csause the ball not to fit correctly?


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## bwall (May 29, 2007)

Hey everyone Thanks!

Tightening the nut down after removing the upper nut and handle fixed the issue!


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## Sheetzfamily (Jun 10, 2009)

*Thank you!*

Thank you! My husband and I were just about finished pulling out our hair as to why the two valves he installed with our water softner were leaking "at the handle" and perfectly fine at the soldered connections! We had never encountered this before! He tightened the handle nut and obviously that didn't work. When searching the interned--it introduced us to this site and your posts. Thank you--we successfully tightened the packing nut! ...I agree with the "little man in China syndrome"!! :laughing:


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## VALVE (Jun 29, 2009)

"little man in China syndrome"!! :laughing:


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Sorry, but don't knock only those little China people on this one. We used to buy Apollo brand ball valves by the cases where I worked. Each box had "Made in U.S.A." imprinted on them and I'd dare say that 30% of these ball valves leaked at the packing nut/stem when installed. OR-maybe I was reading it wong , maybe the box was "Made in the U.S.A." Thanks, David


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Only (?) in the U.S.A. must we use lead free solder, that has a higher melting point and it is easier to damage valves or other components being assembled.

Really, I would be tempted to use electronic solder (60% tin, 40% lead) that has a lower melting point than even old fashioned plumbing solder (for those joints) and see if I could get away with it.


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## Bill in NJ (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks for the help here. I had the same issue with a slight drip coming from the Ball Valve. Removed the handle and tightened the packing nut and the drip is now history.


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