# Repairing some cedar siding, shingle style



## creamaster (May 11, 2008)

I live in western NY in a 1964 ranche style house. It has cedar shake siding with 14" exposure. I plan on replacing alot of the rotted ones so I can repaint the house this summer. Underneath the shakes there is 3/8" thick, 15" tall pieces of particle like board behind the shakes to kick them out and I guess provide for breathing space between the shakes and plywood. I am trying to locate this particle board like material as I need some for replacement around new doors and windows I have put in. What is the proper name for this material and what its terminology is. Home Depot and Lowes only have 5/8" particle board in full 4x8 sheets. My question is basically what is this material, ie particle board?, and where can I find what I need? 

I had to use flash so the underneath would be visible but it overexposed the shakes. The picture shows 1 layer of shakes overlapping another and how it is kicked out. I need to locate the material used behind these shakes. Thanks for any help you guys can offer!


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

CREAMASTER here on the Island we call it shingle backer or fiber backer board. you would have to find a good lumber yard like Allied, I don't believe Lowe's or home depot would carry that.


----------



## creamaster (May 11, 2008)

Thanks bulletbob, I managed to find the stuff at a local lumber yard, fiber backer board is also the name they used.


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Glade to help! Good luck


----------



## creamaster (May 11, 2008)

Another question:

After everything is installed and you are ready to prime/paint, would you prime/paint the exposed ends of the backer board that is hiding underneath the shake? My instinct tells me not to so the wall can breath? What is your take on this ? Thanks.


----------



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

No. 
the backer board is installed 1" to 1-1/2" above the bottom edge of the overlaying coarse. the shingles are butted tight side to side and joints should be 2" apart from the ones below. keep nails (6p stainless steel ) at least 1" from ends and no more then two or three nails depending on the width of the shingle.


----------



## tjhomeowner (Sep 8, 2008)

*Fiberboard backer board*

Hi:

I have the smae problem Creamaster had earlier this year of 2008. I am replacing some pregrooved cedar shakes/shingles on the walls of my 1960's ranch house here in Minnesota, and now cannot find any local lumberyards who still carry the 15" x 48" x3/8" fiber backer board. I used to be able to get it locally in bundles, but now everyone says it isn't made anymore...but Creamaster obtained it in New York. Do you know who manufactures this stuff? Milions of homes had ceadr siding...you'd think someone would still carry it.

tjhomeowner
Minnesota


----------



## ucfargis1 (Dec 8, 2010)

*Repairing some cedar siding, shingle stlye*

Keep trying local lumber yards. I went through all my 6 regulars and they all suggested Cedar Breather...140 bucks a roll. Nahh
SO I asked a good guy at HD (qualitification-he has swung a hammer). He referred me to a yard near where I used to work,
called them up and backer board in stock and is 42 bucks a bundle.
Lesson learned, remove old shingles and backer carefully.
Be patient on finding sources and keep asking.

Going there now


----------



## 67air (Dec 8, 2010)

*Shingle Backer Board ---wood fiber !*

*Members,*
*The production of the wood fiber shingle backer board 3/8" 15x48 was discontinued as of late Spring 2008 upon the closing of Knight Cellotex. I, as a Distributor of Building materials still had many accounts (Lumber Yards) in need of product. As of the Fall 2008 I am now having this manufactured for my business to supply the existing lumber yards I have & any new ones which may be in need.*
*The specs remain the same 3/8"x15"x48"----20 Pcs/Bundle-----18--bundles per. pallet. *
*If you or your lumber yard are in need of this product,a link to this item will be up by Dec 10th 2010.*
*Until then, our web site is **www.yankocy.com** and I'd be happy to help you or your local Lumber Yard get material back in stock.Thankyou.*
*Fred Yankocy*
*Monroe,Ct*


----------



## 67air (Dec 8, 2010)

*Shingle backer board link*

Members,
The link is now on the Web.

http://www.yankocy.com/shinglebackerboard.html

If you or any members you know (Lumber Supply Yards) have need or any questions at all,please do not hesitate to contact our Office and we"ll be happy to put you in touch with one our current stocking yards or help with getting board to your Warehouse.
Regards,
Fred Yankocy
Yankocy Wholesale Building Materials Inc.
PH.203-261-4955
Fax.203-261-8689


----------



## dwh (Jul 20, 2011)

*Same in PA - and some questions*

I also have a ranch from the 50's here in PA with the same shingles as creamaster. I thought for some reason the backer board stuff was attached to the shingle and not a product on it's own. Anyway, I have a couple of questions: 1) In some area the shingles are separating from the shingle right next to it exposing the fiber backer board under it. What would be a good caulk to seal it? Something that expands and contracts I would imagine. 2) Any directions on how to remove and install another piece of shingle? Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## ucfargis1 (Dec 8, 2010)

*SHingle ripper*



dwh said:


> I also have a ranch from the 50's here in PA with the same shingles as creamaster. I thought for some reason the backer board stuff was attached to the shingle and not a product on it's own. Anyway, I have a couple of questions: 1) In some area the shingles are separating from the shingle right next to it exposing the fiber backer board under it. What would be a good caulk to seal it? Something that expands and contracts I would imagine. 2) Any directions on how to remove and install another piece of shingle? Thanks in advance for any advice.


:thumbsup:
Here ya go. http://www.google.com/products/cata...a=X&ei=w1onTsaWHoTe0QGUisHNCg&ved=0CDsQ_QgwAQ
You slide this behind the shingle to be removed ntil you can hook the nail holding it in. Then bash the ripper with a hammer along the shingle/sheathing line. repeat for atleast 4 nails. Use SS 2" ring shank siding nails when nailing in new shingle


----------



## dwh (Jul 20, 2011)

Thanks for the tool link. Any thoughts on the chalk question? Also, i assume one would use the nails recommended to nail both at the bottom of the replacement shingle and through shingle above ( to go through the replacement shingle that is under the shingle above)? Obviously, I'm not a very knowledgeable DIYer - i don't do much of this type of stuff. Thanks for the help!


----------



## ucfargis1 (Dec 8, 2010)

dwh said:


> Thanks for the tool link. Any thoughts on the chalk question? Also, i assume one would use the nails recommended to nail both at the bottom of the replacement shingle and through shingle above ( to go through the replacement shingle that is under the shingle above)? Obviously, I'm not a very knowledgeable DIYer - i don't do much of this type of stuff. Thanks for the help!


I assume you meant caulk not chalk. Cedar shakes are meant to breath and expand and contract. It will be way more severe on a south facing wall leading to eventual failure. That being said, if the crack is more than an 1/4 "
you are best advised to replace the shingle with a wider one.
If its summer when you do it, make it good and tight. WInter. a slight gap to allow for expansion.
Dont worry about the backer itself, its whether the folks who applied it covered your sheathing with 15# felt or not to keep the sheathing dry.
They missed under my windows and I have removed the old window and Vycor'd the opening to cover all bare sheathing.


----------



## dwh (Jul 20, 2011)

Thanks for the help!


----------

