# Cut hole in fiberglass shower with recip. saw?



## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

Has anyone tried cutting a hole in a fiberglass tub or shower enclosure with a reciprocating saw? I need to cut a hole for the new shower valve and handle. I know the preferred way is to use a hole saw, but for a 5" one, it's quite expensive to buy for just one use. 

Could I get good results using a recip. saw with a fine-toothed blade? Any tips?


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

I would re read the instructions that came with the shower valve.
Would be very common that you need a standard hole at 2+" you would have a escutcheon that is 5" wide to cover the hole, you would not drill a hole 5" wide.

Pay attention to the depth you set the shower valve also, it matters where the finished surface will be, all depends on the thickness of the tub or the tile or whatever.

Butt a 5" hole for the valve sounds wrong and you might want to re read the directions.


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

It's a Delta valve with water stops on the side, so I think it's a little larger than usual. Others recommended to me a 4-5" hole, and then the plate goes 7 inches or so, if I remember correctly.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd use a jig saw and cut from the back side or tape it off and use a down cutting blade if I did not want to use a hole saw.


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

Up or down blade simply depends on which side you are cutting it from.
I would use the correct blade with a low powered tool like a wore out jigsaw with a metal blade installed.

I could choose my Millwakee sawzall with a demo blade and watch the fiberglass get ripped to shreds while cutting the hole.
Or use a jig saw on slow speed with a fine tooth blade to make the cut.
I might even just use a drill and cut many holes, then just the jigsaw to connect the dots to complete. Would be safer.

Just use your head, work slow with a fine tooth blade and complete the job with no damage.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

They don't call those things "destroy-zall" without a reason. That's the wrong tool for the job. A hole saw would absolutely cost less than replacing that surround.

If you want cheap, check Harbor Fright: http://www.harborfreight.com/18-piece-carbon-steel-hole-saw-set-69073.html
Wouldn't expect it to last anywhere near as long as better brands, but it'd certainly be a bargain for the job you've got.


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

There is no finesse with a reciprocating saw. You'd be just about as well off using a chain saw.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I would grab a roto-zip. That wall will bounce on you once you bind a flat blade in the cut


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

I suggest you drill many small holes then cut betwen them to make your opening with a hand hack saw blade.


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## Big Poppa (Jun 3, 2013)

These are only $15 and can use them for whatever size holes you'll need for any other projects.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-5B-Adjustable-Standard/dp/B00004T7P2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks for the tips everyone. For that Amazon link to the adjustable circle cutter, has anyone ever used something like that on fiberglass? How well does it work? Guess I'll have to read the reviews. Saw one like that at Menard's but it said it was only for wood. And the one like that at Harbor Freight got poor reviews, but then again that's HF.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Forget the adjustable cutter--they can not be hand held---drill press only.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

Oh hell no, don't expect to use that cutter on the tub liner, it'll skip all over the damned place. I've got one like that and you do NOT want it for this job. That and it's more expensive than the hole saw set from HF (and does less). How is that a better bargain?


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