# How do YOU mix setting type compound?



## cj133 (May 16, 2011)

The more I use easy sand setting compound, the more I like it. So far, I've been mixing small amounts in my mud pan using a tiny 2 wheel drill mixer.


I'm curious how other guys mix theirs and in what containers? Also, any tricks to storing and pouring the bags to make less mess?

Maybe it's just me but I swear the setting type compound seems less greasy (if that's even the right description) or something and spreads nicer than the all purpose premix.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I mixed min up right in the mud tray



I think the reason you find the dry easier to put on is because you're adding more water. I like the dry because it will dry a lot quicker...I mix it thin and do my first 2 passes....and for large areas.

Once I get into the final passes, I use the premix....but I also thin it out a bit. It's just way to thick as is.


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

I mix it a coffee can with paint mixer on drill. Just enough to fill tray or hawk and wash everything as soon as I am done.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

You din't say if it was 45.90 or what but I do a lot of drywall.I cut about 2/3 off of a 5 gal. bucket and use the bottom part.I always put a bit of water in the bucket before adding the powder.Then mix with a drill adding water a litle at a time with a wet sponge until I get what I want.Then take a 3" knife and scpe down the bottom an sides of the bucket and mix again to make sure I don't get any chunks.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I usually just mix in the pan. But if I just need a small amount of mud for a touch up, like often comes up in painting, I will mix it in a styrofoam or plastic cup. Then when I'm done, just throw the cup away, nothing to clean except the knives. 

You don't have a pan to work out of doing it this way, but for small jobs working off of an extra knife works fine.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I don't like mixing in a pan because the corners are square.They trap some of the dry powder and can leed to clumps in the mud unless you are very careful to drag it out with a knife and mix again.


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## cj133 (May 16, 2011)

mako1 said:


> You din't say if it was 45.90 or what but I do a lot of drywall.I cut about 2/3 off of a 5 gal. bucket and use the bottom part.I always put a bit of water in the bucket before adding the powder.Then mix with a drill adding water a litle at a time with a wet sponge until I get what I want.Then take a 3" knife and scpe down the bottom an sides of the bucket and mix again to make sure I don't get any chunks.



Let's say 45 or 90 for this discussion. I'm thinking 20 minute would only be small batches.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I have a hard time telling the difference between 45 and 90 as far as actual drying time on the wall....but it sure makes a difference in the tray....unless your slapping the 45 up pretty quick, it tends to start setting in the tray. 

Hence, I only use 90 now.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I only use 90 for the same reason .I mix bigger batches but have 3 or 4 guys putting it on.Still keep away from 45 .Some things like tricky corners sometimes take a little longer than you think.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

BTW....I would like to point out that I am officially done with all the mud and taping on my addition.....I think I can put away all my mud tools....oh, it feels so good...


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

ddawg16 said:


> BTW....I would like to point out that I am officially done with all the mud and taping on my addition.....I think I can put away all my mud tools....oh, it feels so good...


Until you put a gouge in a wall, when you're moving furniture in.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Seattle2k said:


> Until you put a gouge in a wall, when you're moving furniture in.


Oh, man.....you really know who to ruin a good Zen that I had going...


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## cj133 (May 16, 2011)

Seattle2k said:


> Until you put a gouge in a wall, when you're moving furniture in.





ddawg16 said:


> Oh, man.....you really know who to ruin a good Zen that I had going...



Stop everything and do a plaster veneer.
No more worries then. :thumbsup:


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If your mixing the setting thin you are totally defeating the purpose of it. Mixing it thin makes it brittle when it dries. This will make it really prone to cracking on seams and corners.

Setting compound dries by a chemical reaction vs drying compounds that dry by evaporation. When you mix it too thin you really mess up the chemical reaction. Since the drying compounds let all the water evaporate to mix them thinner doesn't hurt anything.

This is the reason setting can be primed while it still looks wet as long as it's hard. Try that with the drying and it will blister. Setting is a PITA to work with when mixed right, it's stiff enough to be hard to apply, it's hard to get smooth and it's hard to sand.


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## cj133 (May 16, 2011)

ToolSeeker said:


> If your mixing the setting thin you are totally defeating the purpose of it. Mixing it thin makes it brittle when it dries. This will make it really prone to cracking on seams and corners.
> 
> Setting compound dries by a chemical reaction vs drying compounds that dry by evaporation. When you mix it too thin you really mess up the chemical reaction. Since the drying compounds let all the water evaporate to mix them thinner doesn't hurt anything.
> 
> This is the reason setting can be primed while it still looks wet as long as it's hard. Try that with the drying and it will blister. Setting is a PITA to work with when mixed right, it's stiff enough to be hard to apply, it's hard to get smooth and it's hard to sand.



That was an assumption another member made.
The last few times I mixed it until it was thick enough to stay on my knife sideways and upside down. I wanted it to stay where I put it as I was doing a small spot where I had to remove plaster from the wood lath.

Don't know if this is the best product to use over wood lath but I cleaned the lath good, cleared the keyways and wet the lath before applying. It seems to be very solid. After it dried I did a second coat using green lid USG all purpose mud. The third coat will be using USG blue lid with dust control.

The area I patched was fairly small, maybe 2" x 10" so I doubt it matters but the last thing I thought I should use was premix.

I would like to learn more about plastering the proper way with the scratch coat, brown coat and finish coat, but that'll come in time I guess.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

You probably think it goes on better because you're mixing it very smooth and adjusting the water content to your liking. Note that this same process is recommended for premixed right out of the bucket. You should be mixing that before use as well, and possibly adding a little water to it, to get the consistency just right.

When I buy the powder mix, I transfer it from the bag to a small plastic bucket with a lid on it. Those paper bags are just nasty for leaking powder, and are difficult to get powder out of. Once opened, they also have potential to get wet - it can't get wet in a sealed plastic bucket. It also makes it easier to carry around smaller amounts than the full bag.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Also if left in the paper bags the exposure to air over time can affect the setting times. If you use an empty s gallon bucket if you remove that large O ring on the lid it makes it easier to get on and off.


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

Something I learned talking to a tapper at work. you should let it set for one min after mixing it that way the chemical reaction will start. and the guys at drywall talk confermed it


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

scottktmrider said:


> Something I learned talking to a tapper at work. you should let it set for one min after mixing it that way the chemical reaction will start. and the guys at drywall talk confermed it


As slow as I am....it has plenty of time for the chemical reaction to start.:yes:


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

It's the chemical reaction, and other reasons too. This is true with other mixing compounds as well, such as thinset. It's called "slaking". It's mentioned here.
http://community.familyhandyman.com...nishing-with-setting-type-joint-compound.aspx

Probably has its origin from this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slaking_(geology)


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

This really doesn't doesn't need to happen with setting. The chemical reaction starts as soon as water hits it. Imagine you mixed a batch of 5 minute and set around waiting on it to slake. Plus the new Dura bond mixes a lot easier than the old.

One thing that makes setting harder to use is the temp of the water will greatly affect the set time. Don't believe it mix your next batch with hot water. Mixing with cold water will also affect the time as will using what we call dirty water. There are several things that do this. Mix your new batch in with some stuff left from your previous batch.

Mix it and start using it, keep stirring it with your knife if you start hitting dry pockets add a little water and keep working with your knife on the side of the pan.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

According to directions, setting compound should be slaked. From the USG spec sheet: "Compounds are applied after short soaking period and remixing."

You don't have much time with 5 minute, agreed, but the point is not that the reaction occurs immediately when water hits it. The point is that water doesn't come in contact with all particles immediately. Soaking and remixing is what penetrates the clumps fully. You don't want any dry pockets by the time you're applying it.


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