# Cost to replace window with french doors



## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

First off, I apologize if this is posted in the wrong place.

I am wanting to replace a 72(w) x 62(H) window with double french doors. The house is a 1958 CBS construction. No electrical in the wall where the window is. Well more corrrectly I am looking to hire some one to do this. I want to use impact doors as I am in south Florida. I have a couple of people coming to look at the job and price it out, but was hoping to get some idea of what a fair price would be for this job. I am afraid that as a woman living alone, they will try to charge me too much, because I don't know any better. If I have left out any details needed to give an estimate of the job price let me know and I will try to provide such information. 
Thank you
Kim


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Is the door going to be the same width as the current window? That would be a easy job compared to making the opening wider.


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

joed said:


> Is the door going to be the same width as the current window? That would be a easy job compared to making the opening wider.


same width, but the opening may need to be made taller.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

DIY Chatroom is geared towards DIYers, and therefore requests for prices or estimates for contractors to to jobs for people are discouraged. 

If you'd like help doing the replacement yourself, you've certainly come to the right place to get the advice and help you'd need.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

:jester:I agree with Thekctermit. how did you find the door, A store, lumber yard or a company that installs there own project?
Did you get three estimates, this way you could have a better Idea of what price range you will be in,and how the company presented themselves to you. Good luck BOB:jester:


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

Its not that hard of a job so save some money and do it yourself you will get all the help you need to do it right here if you want


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> DIY Chatroom is geared towards DIYers, and therefore requests for prices or estimates for contractors to to jobs for people are discouraged.
> 
> If you'd like help doing the replacement yourself, you've certainly come to the right place to get the advice and help you'd need.


I understand the webiste is for DIYers, however when I went to a contracting site the rules say you cant post there if you aren't a contractor, so I thought I might get some friendly advice, or estimate of what it should cost here. I did go look at doors at Lowes and they run about $500-700 then another $500 to installl but that is if you are putting a door where a door is. Not to tear out a window make the opening bigger and install a door. I have no idea if someone quoted me $3000 if that would be off base or not. I do some little jobs around the house, paint, sod, install sprinklers, but as an RN tearing out part of a wall to install a door seems a little bigger than I can tackle by myself. Especially since the house is concrete block construction. 

Again I apologize for apparently posting this in the wrong place.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Codts vary greatly across the country. That job will problably cost you double in California it would in Buffalo NY. Post your location.


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

joed said:


> Codts vary greatly across the country. That job will problably cost you double in California it would in Buffalo NY. Post your location.


South Florida. 
I had someone come out yesterday to give me a quote and they told me the doors cost double what I saw at Lowes. Exactly what I am afraid of...unless they are different/better doors than I looked at.


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

I would go buy the doors you want and then hire someone to install them.I dont know what the cost of haveing someone do it for you would be but I did mine myself and in pretty much the same situation as yours.I took out a old set of windows ,cut out the block ,installed a new lental ,framed it and installed the door.With all that I would guess it would have cost me around 1000-1500 but that is just a guess and I am in Amish country so their rates are kind of low
If your looking a doors at Lowes ask them what they would charge for intallation that will give you a better ideal I wouldnt use them but it will give you a ballpark


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

This is probably not a good DIY project in S.FL. 
If you want to do this per code...by the way, this project would require a permit in FL.

The variables on the project you propose are numerous ( I can think of 50 that will have an effect costs). You will be required to add a light by your new door. So electrical will be involved.

Have a good idea of what you want, but be open to cost saving alternatives... Interview contractors until you find one in your comfort zone.. a good contractor will explain the process and what your project will require in effort and capital.


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

Big Bob said:


> You will be required to add a light by your new door. So electrical will be involved.
> quote]
> Wow, of the two who came to look at the job so far, neither one mentioned a light. In fact, they both said since there was no outlet under the window that I wouldn't need an electrician.
> Thank you for your input.


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

OMG!!! I just got the first quote $4775  That is much higher than I thought it would be. I really want a back door but not at that cost.


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

wow that is unreal


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Hence the reason this is a *DIY* site. Some people don't want to pay what construction-related work costs these days.


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

You sure you dont want to give this a try yourself.Their are alot of good folks on here that will walk you through it


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

clasact said:


> You sure you dont want to give this a try yourself.Their are alot of good folks on here that will walk you through it


I guess I am chicken. I tend to be a loner thus there is a lack of "friends" on whom I could call to help me. And unfortunately, there are times that I just don't have the strength to get things done. For example, I tore down the front screen porch enclosure, but when it came to the anchors in the cement I couldn't get them out. I finally had a friend visit from out of town and he got them out for me. 
I just have visions of tearing a whole in the wall and then not being able to get the job done. Perhaps I need to price a ticket for my Dad to come visit. :innocent: I have never seen a project he couldn't get done.


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

those french doors are not light so maybe now that you say you dont have any help it might not be such a good ideal to do it yourself sorry.How about Lowes you said you liked the doors you saw their how about the instalation price and belive me I cant tell how disappointed I am to be telling you this but their price might fit what you want just be their when they do it and ask on here if they did it right anf tak pictures you may need them later


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## oberon (Apr 29, 2006)

Hi kimbur,

You had mentioned earlier that you were interested in impact-resistant doors. 

There are a great many positives concerning installing impact doors, and I would highly recommend them in your environment; however there are a couple of negatives as well when considered as a DIY project.

First, impact doors are HEAVY. Consider that they are constructed using laminated glass - which means that there are two lites of glass and not just one in a monolithic (non-dual pane) construction - and the doors themselves are likely to have metal reinforcement in the frames that also adds to the weight. 

Second, I am assuming that by "south Florida" you are in Dade, Broward, or Palm Beach counties, the impact building code is VERY specific about installation details related to impact products and it has to be done right. With all due respect to the folks suggesting that you DIY this one, I have to agree with the folks who suggest hiring out the installation based on the specifics of installing an impact product in your location particularly if it deals with adjusting your rough opening (curious, since one poster mentioned adding a new lintel - do you know what a lintel is?).

Anyway, I suspect that you will find that $4000-$5000 for an installed impact resistant door in your location is not out of line, particularly if there is structural work involved. I would be somewhat surprised to find that the doors that you saw for $600 or $700 are impact resistant products (that seems a bit low, at least for a reasonable quality product). Make sure that when you are looking at doors that are specifically labeled as _impact resistant_ and not _hurricane resistant _or_ wind resistant_. The slightly different labels may not necessarily mean the same thing. 

Impact resistant have been tested and certified using an air cannon to impact the doors with a 2x4 simulating impact debris during a bad storm. Hurricane resistant (or a few other euphemisms) may only suggest that the windows have a certain minimum Design Pressure (DP) rating that means that they should be able to survive sustained winds, but not necessarily impact from flying debris.


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## jcalvin (Feb 6, 2008)

It all depends on what is going to have to be cut to lengthen the opening. I can cut pine 2x4's easier than I can cut through block or brick. There will have to be work done on your siding to get that to look right. The floorin you have in you house may need to be reworked also. If your header isn't high enough, you will have to cut out the sheetrock above and around the opening to make changes on the header height. Just because there isn't a receptacle below the door doesn't mean that there isn't any wire running under the door. It could be as high as the quote you got to much less than that. I can't really think of any situation that I would do the job for less than around $1500.

This is a labor intensive project at best. Not by any means difficult, just a lot of work.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

kimbur96 said:


> I understand the webiste is for DIYers, however when I went to a contracting site the rules say you cant post there if you aren't a contractor, so I thought I might get some friendly advice, or estimate of what it should cost here. I did go look at doors at Lowes and they run about $500-700 then another $500 to installl but that is if you are putting a door where a door is. Not to tear out a window make the opening bigger and install a door. I have no idea if someone quoted me $3000 if that would be off base or not. I do some little jobs around the house, paint, sod, install sprinklers, but as an RN tearing out part of a wall to install a door seems a little bigger than I can tackle by myself. Especially since the house is concrete block construction.
> 
> Again I apologize for apparently posting this in the wrong place.


It would really help if you said what size door you were planning to install in the opening. The price of $500-700 for the door seems woefully incorrect.
Ron


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

Oberon, you were correct I was comparing the price of wind resistant doors vs imapct doors. My mistake.


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## kimbur96 (Oct 17, 2008)

Ron6519 said:


> It would really help if you said what size door you were planning to install in the opening. The price of $500-700 for the door seems woefully incorrect.
> Ron


The window is 72 (w) x 62 (L) and iwanted to install double french doors 72 (W) x 80(L). I have gotten 3 estimates and the all seem to run 3500-4700 without permits or other possible expenses. Looks like this one is on the back burner for a awhile. I'll continue with the painting, sod, fence,etc...stuff i can do.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

If you are looking for impact/projectile resistant windows, you have set a high level.

While codes can change from state to state, codes in florida are more refined and can vary from one area of a county to another area because of hurricane standards. That is one of the reasons Florida does not have the same kind of disaste problems as Louisiana, which had/has antiquated codes that are not really enforced.

Make sure your requirements are realistic for where you live. Some of the windows from the era of your home were different size and the rough opeining size difference between that and current standard size windows can add to the cost. You may have been looking at custom sized windows.


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## TipsyMcStagger (Oct 27, 2009)

clasact said:


> ...I did mine myself and in pretty much the same situation as yours.I took out a old set of windows ,cut out the block ,installed a new lental ,framed it and installed the door...


Bumping an old thread to ask a question; 

If replacing a window with a door of the same width (in a concrete block home), why is it necessary to install a new lintel? 

Would the existing lintel not be adequate?

Tipsy


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

TipsyMcStagger said:


> Bumping an old thread to ask a question;
> 
> If replacing a window with a door of the same width (in a concrete block home), why is it necessary to install a new lintel?


It's not. The guy said, "pretty much the same", he had a wider opening to make. No reason to change something in width when something new is the same size.


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## TipsyMcStagger (Oct 27, 2009)

Joe Carola said:


> It's not. The guy said, "pretty much the same", he had a wider opening to make. No reason to change something in width when something new is the same size.


Actually, "the guy" wrote "pretty much the same _situation_." He never specifically stated that he needed to create a wider opening. 

But thank you for the clarification.

Tipsy


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

TipsyMcStagger said:


> Actually, "the guy" wrote "pretty much the same _situation_." *He never specifically stated that he needed to create a wider opening. *
> 
> 
> 
> ...


He didn't have to specifically say it. By him saying he had to add a new lentil means that the opening was bigger.Why would you have a to add a new lentil if the new door or window was the same size as the old?


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## TipsyMcStagger (Oct 27, 2009)

Joe Carola said:


> Why would you have a to add a new lentil if the new door or window was the same size as the old?


Hence my question.

Tipsy


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

TipsyMcStagger said:


> If replacing a window with a door of the same width (in a concrete block home), why is it necessary to install a new lintel?
> 
> Tipsy


Why did you ask the question then? 



> Originally Posted by clasact
> ...I did mine myself and in pretty much the same situation as yours.I took out a old set of windows ,cut out the block ,installed a new lental ,framed it and installed the door...


It was obvious that he had a bigger door than the existing. Therefore the need to make the opening bigger and install a lentil.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

*New lentil?*

a little confused, but I think Joe is very much on track.

A new lentil should not be needed unless:

1. required by code...old lentil not up to today's code

2. change in opening size dictates new lentil.
a. existing not the correct size
b. support area of lentil diminished or not up to code.

Lentil adventures might be avoided by custom door work, but that
may cost more than the rework on the lentil.

This project is:
a little more involved than popping out a window and putting in a door.:yes:


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## clasact (Oct 21, 2006)

your right Bob it wasnt a walk in the park and its a good thing I had some freinds who do brick work to lend a few pointers,getting the lentil in without tearing out more brick then needed was a bit more then I expected but it did come out well


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Kimber96, you may want to check with your local Building Department as some parts of FL require State licensed installers for window/door glass due to the liability involved.

Gary


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## Tommygun (Sep 2, 2011)

I am getting ready to start similar project.... How will I relocated the electrical? I'm 90% sure there will be 220 air conditioner wire and a 110 outlet, I'm wanting to tap into the outlet and make a porch light. Anyone want to walk me thru the relocating the wires? Will I lengthen them in a junction box and run the runs above the door? 


Let me try to give a visual. Single story house with crawl space The window measures 67" wide and from the floor to the top of the window is 80". From the inside looking at the window. The outlet is left of the window about 2 feet and the ac unit is also left of the window about 8 feet. My guess is the electrical wires run from the electrical box (right of the window) under the window to the ac and outlet. So.... When I rip off the Sheetrock under the window, how should I move those wires?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Tommygun said:


> I am getting ready to start similar project.... How will I relocated the electrical? I'm 90% sure there will be 220 air conditioner wire and a 110 outlet, I'm wanting to tap into the outlet and make a porch light. Anyone want to walk me thru the relocating the wires? Will I lengthen them in a junction box and run the runs above the door?
> 
> 
> Let me try to give a visual. Single story house with crawl space The window measures 67" wide and from the floor to the top of the window is 80". From the inside looking at the window. The outlet is left of the window about 2 feet and the ac unit is also left of the window about 8 feet. My guess is the electrical wires run from the electrical box (right of the window) under the window to the ac and outlet. So.... When I rip off the Sheetrock under the window, how should I move those wires?


 It might be better to just run new wires if you have to extend the wires. If you have enough slack, pick the most convienent route.
You can only use a junction box if it will be accessible, say in the crawl space.
A specific route could only be suggested if I was there and saw the setup you had and the relationship to the panel.
But if the wires come up from the crawl space, that seems a logical point for the extension.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

kimbur96 -

Make sure you know what the rough opening size is (height and width). This will dictate whether you can use a standard or need to get a custom size. If you want to use a standard size door (cheaper) you may need to make modifications to the house to get it in if the rough opening is not big enough. Since it is a 50 year old house the standard sizes have changed (generally smaller), so your opening is important. Since you have a 8" concrete block home any modifications could be difficult or almost impossible. That house probably has a poured concrete bond beam and it could have been formed and might be the top of your rough opening (big $$$ to modify). Without seeing what is there a contractor will have to assume the worst to protect himself.

Custom sizes are available for more money and they take a while to get, but they can be made to fit your opening and could dramatically reduce the installation cost.

I just replaced an older (30 years) sliding door. It was the standard (very heavy) at the time and was wider than today's "standard" and making it fit would require changing the exterior, which meant a battle with the homeowners association. I had no ides what the actual rough opening was, but knew it had the be installed without changing the exterior, but a french door was an acceptable product.

I could have eventually installed the door my self and have inspected many and am certified by a window industry association. I also did over 50'% of the work on my 1850 sf lake home over a few years. I also knew what came with the installation (demolition, disposal, new interior trim, shimming, sealing and caulking, picking up the window and all of the supplies, making extra trips, caulking, adjusting and cleanup). I got 2 quotes that were from suppliers that had questionable sales tactics and knew little about the product and I assumed the installation would be similar. I contacted Anderson Renewal and the salesman was professional and had all the answers and quickly recognized the old window and gave me a detailed written quote with no pressure to sign or decide. I gave the go-ahead and a day later someone came out and did the detailed measuring and took about 20-30 photos of the interior and exterior. The bad thing was the schedule for production and the available installation time.

The installer called ahead of time and asked if it would be O.K. to arrive 1/2 hour early. He arrived at 8:30 with a fully equipped trailer (generator, compressor, metal break) and left at about noon. HE explained the detail operation, ways to adjust and let me know that he installed it to be a tight because the compression foam would shrink a bit and be proper in about a month or two. I did not know that our municipality required and inspection of exterior installations, but Anderson scheduled an inspection for 1:30. They also had to installed CO monitors and smoke detectors where required. The permit cost and the monitors were included in the $2700 price. It took the inspector about 3 minutes to approve the installation of everything.

I know I could have got it done a little cheaper doing it myself or going with another brand, but not as well, faster or easy. I just ordered another one that will also be custom and delivery will be in 6 to 8 weeks and they guanteed the same installer in the proposal.

Dick


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