# Trying to remove flush mount finish nails



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

pms1228 said:


> I am trying to remove an overhead kitchen cabinet however the installer nailed it to the frame of the cabinet on the right. The cabinet I am trying to remove is deeper than the other cabinet so the finish nails are in the middle of the cabinet wall that I am trying to remove.
> I need to remove this cabinet so I can trim it to accommodate a refrigerator that is taller than the opening.
> Can anyone suggest a way I can remove these trim nails? It is a small space to work in. I thought I could use a tap and drive the nail all the way throught the cabinet wall but its a struggle to try to work inside of the cabinet.
> I was wondering if I could use a drill to force the finish nail through the cabinet wall.
> ...


 There is usually room between the cabinets on the top and bottom. Place shims between them and drive them up from the bottom and down from the top. You should see the frames separate. Continue until you can fit in a metal blade and cut the nails.
Remove the fasteners in the cabinet back first.
Ron


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## pms1228 (Mar 13, 2011)

*trying to remove flush mount finish nails*

there appears to be a very little space at the top but the bottom of the 2 cabinets are really tight. the only kind of shim i know about is wood and it would not fit between the space. is there a shim that has a very thin starting edge? (sorry i'm new at this.)


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## pms1228 (Mar 13, 2011)

there appears to be a very little space at the top but the bottom of the 2 cabinets are really tight. the only kind of shim i know about is wood and it would not fit between the space. is there a shim that has a very thin starting edge? (sorry i'm new at this.)


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

pms1228 said:


> there appears to be a very little space at the top but the bottom of the 2 cabinets are really tight. the only kind of shim i know about is wood and it would not fit between the space. is there a shim that has a very thin starting edge? (sorry i'm new at this.)


Then just start at the top. As you do, the face frames will separate and you'll be able to tap in shims from the front. 
Then do sell plastic shims that resemble wood ones. I just bought a package at the local Big box store.
Ron


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## rubberhead (Mar 3, 2011)

I agree with trying to seperate the cabinets enough to cut the nails. You can start to pry them apart with a painters tool:









And then use a hacksaw blade to cut the nails. You should only have to spread them about 1/16th".


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## amen2u (Jan 28, 2011)

. . . or try a cat's paw. They have a very thin leading edge and are strong.


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## rubberhead (Mar 3, 2011)

amen2u said:


> . . . or try a cat's paw. They have a very thin leading edge and are strong.


 
I assume the OP is trying to do this without destroying the trim work. A cat's paw will make a big mess trying to remove those small nails.


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

pms1228 said:


> is there a shim that has a very thin starting edge? (sorry i'm new at this.)


As Ron said, there are alternatives. 

I just saw some "composite" shims for the first time at Home Depot yesterday, and they were less than $2. Going to pick some up next time. Perhaps the thin edge could be hammered even thinner?


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## amen2u (Jan 28, 2011)

Just to clarify, the cat's paw is to initiate a separation for the shims to be introduced.

Besides, my dad always told me it was the workman and not just the tool the caused the mess.


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## dtsman (Jan 1, 2011)

Use a nail punch and hammer the nails all the way in until it clears the wall. Now you will only have small round holes that may or may not be noticeable when you reinstall it. If it pops out on the other side, cut it with a pair of heavy diagonal cutters or something.


Bo

Remember,
If the women don't find you handsome,
they should at least find you handy. 
(Red Green)


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

amen2u said:


> Just to clarify, the cat's paw is to initiate a separation for the shims to be introduced.
> 
> Besides, my dad always told me it was the workman and not just the tool the caused the mess.


My Dad said, "Use the right tool for the right job".
Ron


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

amen2u said:


> Just to clarify, the cat's paw is to initiate a separation for the shims to be introduced.





rubberhead said:


> I assume the OP is trying to do this without destroying the trim work. A cat's paw will make a big mess trying to remove those small nails.


I think amen2u was reffering to one of those combination bars, with a prybar on one end and paw on the other, and not a traditional cat's paw


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Mr Chips said:


> I think amen2u was reffering to one of those combination bars, with a prybar on one end and paw on the other, and not a traditional cat's paw


That's a pretty good talent.
What am I thinking now?
Ron


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## rubberhead (Mar 3, 2011)

dtsman said:


> Use a nail punch and hammer the nails all the way in until it clears the wall. Now you will only have small round holes that may or may not be noticeable when you reinstall it. If it pops out on the other side, cut it with a pair of heavy diagonal cutters or something.
> 
> 
> Bo
> ...


 
I'd be worried about splitting the trim by driving the head through all the way. I may have missed this info, but was it ever stated as to how wide this trim is? Driving a nail through an inch of material can easily split the material. Just my experience anyway. :thumbup:


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## rubberhead (Mar 3, 2011)

Mr Chips said:


> I think amen2u was reffering to one of those combination bars, with a prybar on one end and paw on the other, and not a traditional cat's paw


 
Good point... Must have meant the pry bar end, as the cat's paw would kick the **** out of the cabinet.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

rubberhead said:


> I'd be worried about splitting the trim by driving the head through all the way. I may have missed this info, but was it ever stated as to how wide this trim is? Driving a nail through an inch of material can easily split the material. Just my experience anyway. :thumbup:


He was referring to the nails in the wall, not the faceframe.
Ron


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## pms1228 (Mar 13, 2011)

Thanks to all who replied. I did get it dismantled (by using the shim and cutting the nails system) and it worked great. This is a wonderful resource!


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Glad it was not glued.


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