# Drain stack configuration



## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Hi,



I am about to get started on my plumbing for the basement project. This will begin with plumbing the drains for the dishwasher/sink with disposal, washer, and vanity/lav drain.



Please reference my novice sketch and let me know your opinions.

*(What I am looking for is wether the "stack" order I have drawn is adequate)*




Thank you in advance.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

Well...1/4" per foot is what is generally code. Not 1/16" per foot drop.

Andy.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

check w/ a local code official about reducing the size of the stack at the top. generally, they are pretty large at the top. i think 3" is a minimum. btw: do you have your own septic, or are you on a city sewer? if on your own septic, avoid the garbage disposal like the plague.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Though you did not answer my question, I still thank you for taking a bit of time to respond to my post/question.

My question is specifically on the stack order of the drain lines per their specific purpose.

As for the Air Venting subject (in case any of you are wondering), I will use an Air Admittance Valve (AAV) for the kitchen sink/dishwasher, while I will vent out through a 2" air vent pipe for the Vanity/Lav and Washer drain.


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

I don't think the order would matter in the least to your system.

Andy.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

What about combining all three drain lines into one 2" drain line? Wouldn't this solve my problem?


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

I think that you should not put three 2" lines into one 2" line. 
Should be a min. of a three inch line they feed into.

Andy.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

I meant 3". Typo sucks!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

oodssoo said:


> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The answer is no. If you want more info as to why- you need to supply more info. Such as- other vents, length of trap arms, etc. 
You also need 1/4" per ft grade..


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## mr leak (Dec 23, 2012)

*odosso regarding drain venting*

you have 5 drain fixture units Washing machine 2 sink with disposal 2 lav 1 

slope must be 1/4 inch per ft and is limited on distance but a 2 inch vent is fine


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

AndyGump said:


> I don't think the order would matter in the least to your system.


OK...Andy "Thinks" the order doesnt matter??? Ask your local building inspector if a major over a minor would not matter.

Then you have your answer.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

The answer to your question is no.. if your are discharging a washing machine that needs to go on bottom if dish washers then on the kitchen sink disposal or tail piece needs to be air gaped and trapped that stack is over loaded if in 2 inch and if using an AAV min 3 inch on a washer vent and drain. again that's under my code. also must have a clean out on that stack.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Javiles said:


> The answer to your question is no.. if your are discharging a washing machine that needs to go on bottom if dish washers then on the kitchen sink disposal or tail piece needs to be air gaped and trapped that stack is over loaded if in 2 inch and if using an AAV min 3 inch on a washer vent and drain. again that's under my code. also must have a clean out on that stack.


Sorry, Javiles, but I don't quite understand your statement... Can you please reword what you said?

I think you're saying that the washer needs to go on the bottom, the kitchen sink with disposal, then the vanity go on the top?

On the note of venting, I have the option to vent straight up into a 2" vent pipe or installing 3 aav's. Though, I think I will go the old fashion way of pipe venting...


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

C on top B center A at the bottom as per your drawing.

This is what the code wants a mechanical discharge at the bottom of a gravity drain. and then it would be lavatory sink above a line discharging solids which would be your disposal. plumbing systems are designed to self cleaning, you always want clean water up stream of a solids discharge. also like others have mentioned length of those waste arms are important. if your in the south east your probably under the IPC thats the one we are under but we also have the south Florida plumbing code which covers areas not addressed under the IPC. should check with your local building official. hope this helps.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

information given...has it been received??


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Javiles said:


> C on top B center A at the bottom as per your drawing.
> 
> This is what the code wants a mechanical discharge at the bottom of a gravity drain. and then it would be lavatory sink above a line discharging solids which would be your disposal. plumbing systems are designed to self cleaning, you always want clean water up stream of a solids discharge. also like others have mentioned length of those waste arms are important. if your in the south east your probably under the IPC thats the one we are under but we also have the south Florida plumbing code which covers areas not addressed under the IPC. should check with your local building official. hope this helps.


Thank you, everyone that have taken time to respond to my post since the start.

I have revalidated and reviewed the 3-pipe stack configuration approach and have decided to go with a 2-pipe stack configuration. It only appears to be more feasible from the stand-point of how the pipe would fit both through the studs and at the drain stub-out - two 2" pipes would be best while staying in the proper drain heights (i.e. 14" for kitchen sink with disposal, Lav/Vanity at 18", etc.). These three fixtures will be on the same wall from left to right toward the 3" drain pipe with an air vent as drawn in the sketch.

Please take a look at the drawing that I have put together, and check my knowledge. I am open for constructive criticisms and suggestions, as some of you truly have been great and thorough in helping me. 

Thank you again in advance.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

over Kill on the venting, double trapping, exceeded lengths on waste arm. what you have is not to code and will cause multiple problems. i will draw you a couple ways that may work for you. unfortunately you can not pipe around your framing, you have to frame around your piping. if you can post a drawing of the floor plan showing distance from the stack to fixtures and in between each other.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Javiles said:


> over Kill on the venting, double trapping, exceeded lengths on waste arm. what you have is not to code and will cause multiple problems. i will draw you a couple ways that may work for you. unfortunately you can not pipe around your framing, you have to frame around your piping.


After you pointed that it's over vented, I do see that as well. Would an AAV be best in this case?

Would you mind, also, share your thought on "double trapping"?

Also, how do you figure that the waste arm length was exceeded?

I look forward to your drawing, Javiles.

Thank you again for your help on the matter.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

oodssoo said:


> Would you mind, also, share your thought on "double trapping"?


 
Follow the flow of water from the kitchen sink. It has to go thru two traps.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

also make sure the fitting circled in green are sanitary T's not Wyes with a combo


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> Follow the flow of water from the kitchen sink. It has to go thru two traps.


Hammerlane,

I am confused. I thought at the kitchen sink a trap is needed, like at the vanity. Please elaborate for me whether "double trapping" is good or bad.

Secondly, I will use san-tees in the locations per the sketch.

Again, please explain.

Thank you.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

oodssoo said:


> Hammerlane,
> 
> I am confused. I thought at the kitchen sink a trap is needed, like at the vanity. Please elaborate for me whether "double trapping" is good or bad.
> 
> ...


Every fixture needs a trap- but you cannot drain one trap into another trap such as your kit sink into laundry

Javiles asked for a floor plan. Can you provide it? 
What you have drawn has several issues- rather then address them one by one- let a plumber here draw it for you. Sketch please


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Okay, I have tweaked the sketch some more. I noticed that the washer drain and vent should have been separate.

Secondly, I've added on the bottom the distance figures per Javiles's earlier request. All of the fixtures will be on the same wall.

Thirdly, I really think AAV would be the best way to go, but I still haven't gotten any response from anyone on this route. I am especially intrigued to find out whether you think (1, 2, or 3) AAVs are even feasible for washer drain vent.

Lastly, if you do see "problems" or something you don't quite understand about my sketch, please point those out to me. I would like to clarify them for you, in order for you to help me. 

Look forward to seeing more responses. You guys have been great so far!

:thumbup:


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## mr leak (Dec 23, 2012)

*odosso regarding drain venting*

Your sketch shows y/combos where the sink and lav are connected to the drain . These fittings need to be sanitary tees[ san tees] Your laundry washer box discharge figure is not clear where the floor is but the washer standpipe i.e drainage length shouls be 18 to 30 inches max because a longer length will tend to siphon the grey water out of the trap from the water force velocity. The trap is not to be under the floor. One way to configure this drain is to put the bottom og the trap at 6 inches above the floor then work upwards to 30 inches for the bottom of the washer box. The venting should slope upwards 1/4 inch per foot or more and you can if tou want replace the drain combos with san tees or 90's You do Not have to use vent 90's as they are about 3 times the price of drainage 90's and will pass code just fine. AAV's are not allowed in some areas but work fine and generally not used as a normal practice but used to vent certain instances wher normal venting would create issues. AAv. need to be accessible , located a minimum of 4 inches above the drain and if in the attic, 6 inch above the insulation. If you get as far as the attic probably best to go ahead and go thru the roof unless it is tile or other issues. Hope this helps Mr Leak


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

OK- heres my list of issues:
1 You don't need a vent off the stack- I assume thats a waste stack only
2 You don't say the waste pipe sizes- lav=1.5", clothe washer = 2"(some codes want 3") kit. sink=2"
3 washer sant at vent connection is backwards
4 you still have the kit sink draining into the washer trap via the standpipe- big no no
5 Kitchen sink trap to high- you'll never make a connection to the sink at 24"
My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

Eplumber: "My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so." Some folks here use them to avoid heat loss. Is there any reason to not have a vent or two via pipe if AAV's are used for most venting in a one-story house? I just can't gravitate to using AAV's exclusively; just a gut thing. A Studor Maxi-Vent and PAPA will be installed near the beginning of the drain system.

"washer san t at vent connection is backwards" What is the reasoning there? It would seem to enhance air flow if the san t curves toward the "up and out". thanks.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

_Quote and responding to Mr. Leak..._

_1). Your sketch shows y/combos where the sink and lav are connected to the drain._
*In case it's not visible enough, I've added a third disclaimer stating that my drawing is not to scale.  Also, I've added "S/Tee" next to the tees.*
_These fittings need to be sanitary tees[ san tees]_ 

_2). Your laundry washer box discharge figure is not clear where the floor is but the washer standpipe i.e drainage length shouls be 18 to 30 inches max because a longer length will tend to siphon the grey water out of the trap from the water force velocity._*The top of my washer box is sitting about 36" off of the floor. So this problem will be nonissue.*

_3). The trap is not to be under the floor._ *Again the drawing is not to scale, but I have tweaked that on the sketch for everyone's viewing pleasure.*

_4). One way to configure this drain is to put the bottom og the trap at 6 inches above the floor then work upwards to 30 inches for the bottom of the washer box._ *I plan to install the standpipe based on your suggestion. Thank you. *

_5). The venting should slope upwards 1/4 inch per foot or more and you can if tou want replace the drain combos with san tees or 90's You do Not have to use vent 90's as they are about 3 times the price of drainage 90's and will pass code just fine. _*A 1.5" vent pipe (I can verify this upon start of work) runs across the ceiling and over all three fixtures. So, my plan is to vent into this pipe. As I have in the sketch, I will use SanTees here as well in the direction as in the sketch also.*


_6). AAVs are not allowed in some areas but work fine and generally not used as a normal practice but used to vent certain instances wher normal venting would create issues. AAv. need to be accessible , located a minimum of 4 inches above the drain and if in the attic, 6 inch above the insulation. If you get as far as the attic probably best to go ahead and go thru the roof unless it is tile or other issues._ *AAVs will be my backup plan should the regular pipe vent method becomes too problematic.*

_7). Hope this helps Mr Leak _*Very well did! Thank you!*[/quote]


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

jklingel said:


> Eplumber: "My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so." Some folks here use them to avoid heat loss. Is there any reason to not have a vent or two via pipe if AAV's are used for most venting in a one-story house? I just can't gravitate to using AAV's exclusively; just a gut thing. A Studor Maxi-Vent and PAPA will be installed near the beginning of the drain system.
> 
> "washer san t at vent connection is backwards" What is the reasoning there? It would seem to enhance air flow if the san t curves toward the "up and out". thanks.


Thank you jklingel. I wondered about the direction of the S/Tee also. I mean, the way I have in the sketch (I thought) would "enhance" the air flow, right?

Since you chimmed in, jklingel, what's your opinion about the "double trap" discussion. Mind you, they are about 7 to 8 feet apart... Please let me know.

As for the topic on using the AAV, I haven't made up my mind yet on what I would end up doing. Since either way really don't have any negatives (from I have been reading), I guess AAV would be easier to install than the regular pipe vent method.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

jklingel said:


> Eplumber: "My opinion on AAV's is if you can vent it with pipe- do so." Some folks here use them to avoid heat loss. Is there any reason to not have a vent or two via pipe if AAV's are used for most venting in a one-story house? I just can't gravitate to using AAV's exclusively; just a gut thing. A Studor Maxi-Vent and PAPA will be installed near the beginning of the drain system.
> 
> "washer san t at vent connection is backwards" What is the reasoning there? It would seem to enhance air flow if the san t curves toward the "up and out". thanks.


I base my opinion on many years of having to vent through the roof. Only since last year has my local code allowed AAV's and then, only under certain conditions such as island sinks, some remodel conditions and only in residential work. 
UPC also says that the combined cross sectional are of the vents through the roof shall be equal to or greater then the building drain. So 4" drain= minimum 4" combined vents through the roof. I've never been given a "official" reason for the 4" venting rule except that it equalizes pressure.
Drainage fittings are designed with sewage flow in mind not air flow. A sant is meant to flow from top-down or from the branch-down.
Hpoe that helps:thumbsup:


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Did a quick fix for you. This is just one way to do it and it may not be totally code correct for your area.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> Did a quick fix for you. This is just one way to do it and it may not be totally code correct for your area.


Thanks E i was trying to post some drawings but cant seem to get my scanner to work there are a couple ways he could do it and this is one of them. simple. only on the washing machine to the stack req, min 3 inch. IPC. i hate AAV's they do make me lots of money though, personally i use them only and only when VTR is not possible.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Javiles said:


> Thanks E i was trying to post some drawings but cant seem to get my scanner to work there are a couple ways he could do it and this is one of them. simple. only on the washing machine to the stack req, min 3 inch. IPC. i hate AAV's they do make me lots of money though, personally i use them only and only when VTR is not possible.


I really hesitate to put up drawings- it makes me feel liable for their future problems :laughing:


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> I really hesitate to put up drawings- it makes me feel liable for their future problems :laughing:


If this post goes to four pages I am gonna have one of my on line meltdowns. i know exactly what you mean.:wallbash:


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Javiles said:


> Thanks E i was trying to post some drawings but cant seem to get my scanner to work there are a couple ways he could do it and this is one of them. simple. only on the washing machine to the stack req, min 3 inch. IPC. i hate AAV's they do make me lots of money though, personally i use them only and only when VTR is not possible.


Thank you, Javiles and E!

Javiles, can you reword what you said (again)? I don't want to assume anything by mistake. :yes: 



Javiles said:


> Thanks E i was trying to post some drawings but cant seem to get my scanner to work there are a couple ways he could do it and this is one of them. simple. only on the washing machine to the stack req, min 3 inch. IPC. i hate AAV's they do make me lots of money though, personally i use them only and only when VTR is not possible.


 
Here is another version of the sketch. It should be very close to E's drawing. On that drawing by E, thank you.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

oodssoo said:


> Thank you, Javiles and E!
> 
> Javiles, can you reword what you said (again)? I don't want to assume anything by mistake. :yes:
> 
> ...


That wont work not even close to E plumbers Drawings, what do you want me to reword. now you've created a new problem you now have exceeded the trap depth on the washer not to mention misplaced fittings, cant understand why not go with what E plumber drew?? your over thinking this and complicating it for yourself. if that set up wont work post a drawing showing the fixture placements along with the position of the stack. there are multiple ways of doing it , a layout will help to get what will work best for you.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

TheEplumber said:


> I base my opinion on many years of having to vent through the roof. •• OK. I have been hearing that "older plumbers" have not quite taken to AAV's entirely. I can not, either, so that is why I was thinking about having one vent through the roof; apron strings and emotion on my part, no science.
> 
> UPC also says that the combined cross sectional are of the vents through the roof shall be equal to or greater then the building drain. ... I've never been given a "official" reason for the 4" venting rule except that it equalizes pressure. •• That sounds official enough to me.
> 
> Drainage fittings are designed with sewage flow in mind not air flow. A sant is meant to flow from top-down or from the branch-down. •• Got it. Thanks.


 See after bullets.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

oodssoo said:


> Thank you jklingel. •• Great minds think alike.
> 
> Since you chimmed in, jklingel, what's your opinion about the "double trap" discussion. •• I'll defer to the plumber, but it sure looks to me like a bad idea; one fixture, one trap.
> 
> As for the topic on using the AAV, I haven't made up my mind yet on what I would end up doing. Since either way really don't have any negatives (from I have been reading), I guess AAV would be easier to install than the regular pipe vent method.•• I am going to go AAV, etc, as mentioned. You just have to remember to install the AAV's in a little recessed box so you can get at them if/when they go boobs up. Hang a picture of Grandma over the box. That said, I am giving serious consideration to stubbing up a few inches into the insulation (30-some inches thick) for pipe vents, just for stink and giggles.


 See after bullets. This has been very informative, thanks to some pros who enjoy educating the masses.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Haha!

I noticed what I misinterpreted off of E's drawing.

Not to complain, but I am having to guess at part of your (javiles and e) responses because I don't know what a 2" combo and 2" wet vent exactly mean. 

And what javiles typed... "there are a couple ways he could do it and this is one of them. simple. only on the washing machine to the stack req, min 3 inch." What do you mean by this? Do you mean tie in all three fixtures into a 3 inch (minimum) pipe? Would you mind describing how the venting would be in your suggestion?

So please elaborate clearly. LOL.

Men... it looks like we will definitely go into the 4th and even the 5th page of this post.

To keep things moving on my end, I have uploaded yet another sketch version based on my "guesses".  I look forward to your constructive criticisms. (seriously)

Much appreciated.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

That will work 3 inch on the washer branch to the stack, :thumbup:


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

Javiles said:


> That will work 3 inch on the washer branch to the stack, :thumbup:


You did it again... hahahaha... Hard to understand what you said... lol!

Anyway, I won't be able to do a 3 inch in my 2x4 wall studs. So, it will have to be a 2 inch.

Your thoughtm, javiles?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> IDrainage fittings are designed with sewage flow in mind not air flow. A sant is meant to flow from top-down or from the branch-down.


It is typical to use an inverted San-T for venting.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

hammerlane said:


> It is typical to use an inverted San-T for venting.


I used Both never had a problem as far a inspections or function.:yes:


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

hammerlane,

Thank you for the photos. The middle picture you attached is 95% accurate (i think) match to how my washer line and lav plumbing would look like! Thanks for the visual.

I have verified the pipe sizes and have included the revisions to the attached sketch version. The changes include the followings:

a) washer box drain pipe will be 1.5" - then I will have the drain pipe increased to a 2" p-trap connected to a 2" drain toward the vanity drain 2" s/tee.
b) the waste (main) drain is in fact 3"
c) all air vent pipes will be reduced from 2" s/tees to 1.5".
d) added another clean out after the lav.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Javiles said:


> That will work 3 inch on the washer branch to the stack,


You are saying The washer branch drain(shown in green in the diagram) has to be minimum 3"??

I agree that the stack has to be 3" but not the washer branch. I had same discussion with my inspector and he agreed that washer branch 2".

AUTOMATIC CLOTHES WASHERS

406.3 Waste connection. The waste from an automatic clothes washer shall discharge through an air break into a standpipe in accordance with Section 802.4 or into a laundry sink. The trap and fixture drain for an automatic clothes washer standpipe shall be a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm) in diameter. The automatic clothes washer fixture drain shall connect to a branch drain *or drainage stack a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm) in diameter*. Automatic clothes washers that discharge by gravity shall be permitted to drain to a waste receptor or an approved trench drain.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

of note is the orientation of the wye and 1/8th bend in this picture. i assume that is because any condensate would then "go with the flow" as if the fitting were being used for draining. i would have installed it reversed for the air to flow up; learn something every day.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

jklingel said:


> of note is the orientation of the wye and 1/8th bend in this picture. i assume that is because any condensate would then "go with the flow" as if the fitting were being used for draining. i would have installed it reversed for the air to flow up; learn something every day.


 
You would have installed the combo(circled in green) as shown below as opposed to its original orientation(shown circled in yellow)??

Shown in yellow does promote air flow behind the water. Air is not "flowing up" it is being drawn in.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

hammer: yes, assuming the large pipe on the right is vent only. at the green circle, had i not been thinking, it would have made sense for air to rise out.... even though it does not need to for plumbing purposes, as you said. (that said, an old plumber told me that air gets pushed more than pulled, but i think the reality is both happen equally. if air is sitting in a pipe and water displaces it, the air has to go somewhere. if air is being pushed, somebody's gotta come in to replace it). i now see that the proper configuration of the fitting accounts for air flow and liquid flow, if liquid were in the pipe (like maybe condensate). bottom line, i will surely pay attention if/when i run into this. thanks.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Javiles said:


> I used Both never had a problem as far a inspections or function.:yes:


Agreed- sort of. They look good inverted when venting :thumbup:
@ Hammerlane- if the vent fittings are 6" above flood rim- you could use non drainage pattern fittings- Google a "vent 90" for an example There is a saying- "air don't care"


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

Venting Is air equilibrium a state of rest or balance due to the equal action of opposing forces. what did i say about this thread going 4 pages:wallbash:


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Javiles said:


> Venting Is air equilibrium a state of rest or balance due to the equal action of opposing forces. what did i say about this thread going 4 pages:wallbash:


Now you realize I'm just a plumber, right? How am I supposed to understand that definition? Did you learn that in physics 101?


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

TheEplumber said:


> Now you realize I'm just a plumber, right? How am I supposed to understand that definition? Did you learn that in physics 101?


 That's from second semester, where he also learned Newton's other laws of plumbing, like (1) Payday is Friday (2) Stink flows downhill (amended in 1937 to read ".... at 1/4" per lineal foot, measured horizontally), and (3) Never wipe the snake on your T-shirt whilst you are retrieving it from a clogged toilet drain line. The Three Cardinal Rules of Plumbing.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

jklingel said:


> That's from second semester, where he also learned Newton's other laws of plumbing, like (1) Payday is Friday (2) Stink flows downhill (amended in 1937 to read ".... at 1/4" per lineal foot, measured horizontally), and (3) Never wipe the snake on your T-shirt whilst you are retrieving it from a clogged toilet drain line. The Three Cardinal Rules of Plumbing.


I missed 2nd semester, but for make up class i was taught- hot on the left and cold on the right and that plumbers shouldn't chew their fingernails :no:


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

TheEplumber said:


> ... and that plumbers shouldn't chew their fingernails :no:


 if you have a kid who is a late thumb-sucker, i guess teaching him/her to plumb would cure that rather quickly.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> @ Hammerlane- if the vent fittings are 6" above flood rim- you could use non drainage pattern fittings


That statement is kind of infering that if you tie in below the flood level rim of the highest fixture connected to the stack it would be OK to use a sweep-fitting. Which is not correct. You cannot go horizontal until you are at least 6" above the flood level rim of tthe highest fixture.

And actually looking at this depiction, fitting #5 should be higher on the stack so as to be above the top of the washer standpipe making the horizontal section of pipe between fittings #4 and #5 above the flood level of the highest fixture. The highest fixture being the washer standpipe.

 Possible this person was to cut the washer standpipe a little lower.


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> You would have installed the combo(circled in green) as shown below as opposed to its original orientation(shown circled in yellow)??
> 
> Shown in yellow does promote air flow behind the water. Air is not "flowing up" it is being drawn in.


Well, Hammerlane, in looking at the photo, my circumstance will actually be slightly different. My washer drain line will connect into a y and 1/8" combo of the vanity drain positioned to the right of it. I would think that the S/Tee should remain oriented as I have in the sketch for waterflow.

*This said, my concern is on the washer drain ventilation. Being that the vent will be to the right of it by about 5 ft or so. Wouldn't this present a ventilation problem at all? If so, I thought an AAV would be the best solution to my concern... Do you think by adding an AAV would throws things off?*

_Revision to the sketch include the followings:_

_1) Relocation of clean out ports_
_2) Correction of Washer Drain line size from 1/5" to 2"_
_3) Adjusted the sink drain height in sketch to illustrate closer to the real thing_
_4) Additional labling (i.e. 2"-to-1.5" reducer points, 3"-to-1.5" reducer points, clean out, etc.)_

Otherwise, we are close to the end of the post (LOL @ javiles and E :whistling2. So, I must ask one other question:

"Are there any problems with the plumbing sketch that I have drawn?" :wink:

Thank you all. This truly has been an excellent discussion on everyone's part!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

hammerlane said:


> That statement is kind of infering that if you tie in below the flood level rim of the highest fixture connected to the stack it would be OK to use a sweep-fitting. Which is not correct. You cannot go horizontal until you are at least 6" above the flood level rim of tthe highest fixture.
> 
> And actually looking at this depiction, fitting #5 should be higher on the stack so as to be above the top of the washer standpipe making the horizontal section of pipe between fittings #4 and #5 above the flood level of the highest fixture. The highest fixture being the washer standpipe.
> 
> Possible this person was to cut the washer standpipe a little lower.


That's not what I was inferring. You cannot tie vents together below the flood rim but you can- in certain cases(AHJ approval) run horizontal vents below the flood rim- then you need drainage fittings and follow drainage standards. Here's 2 examples: kitchen drain/vent centered under the window or a floor drain in a large area that exceeds trap arm length.
Once 6" above the flood rim you could pipe with sch.40 galvanized water pipe fittings if you wanted too and per UPC- you can lay the venting level- no need to grade it(I'm sure that will get a comment from someone)


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

oodssoo said:


> _Revision to the sketch include the followings:_
> 
> _1) Relocation of clean out ports_
> _2) Correction of Washer Drain line size from 1/5" to 2"_
> ...


You are redundant with the clean outs- remove the 2" horizontal cleanout.
You don't need to vent the drain stack- refer to my previous sketch


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> but you can- in certain cases(AHJ approval) run horizontal vents below the flood rim- then you need drainage fittings and follow drainage standards. Here's 2 examples: kitchen drain/vent centered under the window or a floor drain in a large area that exceeds trap arm length.


Good point.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

GGGGGGEEEEEEEEE:wallbash::bangin::cursing: :drink:


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

Under IPC re venting not required in this set up unless exceeding waste arm length fitting 3 10 4 and 5 not needed saved what 10 bucks vertical must be in 3" min. only on new not if re piping existing.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Javiles said:


> waste arm length fitting 3 10 4 and 5 not needed saved what 10 bucks vertical must be in 3" min. only on new not if re piping existing.


 
What?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

hammerlane said:


> What?


He's saying the washer could be vented on the stack is all...


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> He's saying the washer could be vented on the stack is all...


Thank you E you are now my official interpreter ..


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## oodssoo (Jul 16, 2012)

TheEplumber said:


> He's saying the washer could be vented on the stack is all...


As for venting, I plan to keep the vent on the drain stack. The reason for this plan is because the vent pipe is already in place, and modifying would be extra work. ... or time that could be spent elsewhere... 

Secondly, I, too, agree wtih Javiles on the washer venting on the stack idea. This eliminates the "extra work" factor, and more time could be better spent elsewhere and other projects around the house.

By the way, HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL!

Lastly, I started phsically the implementation of the plumbing as per this entire post. I have to be honest... but some more changes have been revised into the plan/sketch. I look forward to sharing the product.


Hopefully, you will all approve withouth further complaints... LOL!:laughing:

PAGE 6... here we come!


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