# installing shelving on tile backsplash



## indignatz (Nov 15, 2007)

Hi all,
I have a problem with shelving on a tile backsplash that is causing me a great deal of stress. There were probably better ways to do this but it is what it is. We initially had shelves in our kitchen that were installed against drywall. We took the shelves down to tile our back splash, and we had a tile guy in to do that part. We wanted to put the shelves back up where they were so we left the drywall anchors in place and the tile guy drilled holes in the tile to line up with where the anchors are. Now here's the problem:

The screws that were holding the shelves in place won't secure properly back into the anchors.

These are the brackets that we're using

http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/90136136

And these are the anchors that are in the drywall; it's the one on the far left









Can anyone suggest what to do next? The holes in the tile backsplash aren't big enough to remove the anchors by screwing them out, although they could be made bigger.

I'm desperate!

Thanks,
-Mark


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Are you using longer screws? You have added depth now with the tile.


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## indignatz (Nov 15, 2007)

Yup, I'm using longer screws, but the anchors just won't hold them. I tried a larger screw in one of them, but it just twisted the anchor and that wouldn't hold either.


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

You need to get the tile guy back to drill larger holes to accommodate either toggle or molly bolts. The shelf brackets should cover the difference. Reusing anchors, in my experience, is fine for picture hanging but not for shelves.


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## indignatz (Nov 15, 2007)

That's what I'm hoping to do. Should I be concerned about removing the existing anchors, or can I drill a new hole right through them? I've found mollys to be very fickle and I'm concerned that the existing anchor might interfere with the expansion of the new molly.


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

Your contractor can drill right though the old mollys. The pieces will fall harmlessly between the wall. The toggle bolts in your picture require a hole around 3/8 of an inch. The metal molly (2nd) from the left will require a smaller hole but might support less weight.


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## indignatz (Nov 15, 2007)

Thanks, I'll give the toggle bolts a try. Just out of curiosity, because the drilled hole will be quite a bit larger than the screw, is there a chance that the shelf will eventually sag due to the toggle slipping?


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

Good question. Yes, there is a chance of movement since you don't want to overtighten the screw. Two possible solutions: put a thin coating of silicone sealant at the back of the shelf during installation or put a piece of tubing to act as a spacer between the screw and the tile/walboard. I originally though nbr. 2 from the left in your pics might also work but now I am unsure that it could handle the extra thickness of tile. thinset(or adhesive) and drywall. If interested in nbr.2 you yould see if the package recommends the product where the thickness of the wall is around 3/4 of an inch.
Make sure your worker uses a masonry carbide bit.
Take a look at this product:
http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php


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