# Flashing material on top of brick ledge...



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Links:

http://store.dunnlum.com/builderwire20/common/store/itemdetails.aspx?categoryid=233&itemid=2869

http://www.nervastral.com/product1.htm


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

MLO said:


> I will be installing a brick wainscoting onto an old 50's foundation with an integrated brick ledge. The original roman bricks used a 90 degr. aluminum flashing from the exterior wall to underneath the bricks on the ledge.
> 
> I have been told that a more modern and water-tight flashing technique is to use a product like nervastrol (sp?). Supposedly it is a polypropylene membrane that is flexible and cut with a utility knife.
> 
> ...


I wouldnt put that on my house. I've opened up a lot of brick walls where similar materials were punctured or the laps were sealed. Masonry trowels like to cut through it. I would stick with a copper laminate product from advanced flashings or similar


----------



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

ncgrogan said:


> I wouldnt put that on my house. I've opened up a lot of brick walls where similar materials were punctured or the laps were sealed. Masonry trowels like to cut through it. I would stick with a copper laminate product from advanced flashings or similar


It can be used between the mud sill and the foundation. Like Foam sill is standardly used on most new construction homes today.
link: http://store.dunnlum.com/builderwire20/common/store/itemdetails.aspx?categoryid=233&itemid=2342


In other applications, it should be installed with a protective material placed over it. See the diagrams and description on the previous link I listed:
http://www.nervastral.com/product1.htm


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> It can be used between the mud sill and the foundation. Like Foam sill is standardly used on most new construction homes today.
> link: http://store.dunnlum.com/builderwire20/common/store/itemdetails.aspx?categoryid=233&itemid=2342
> 
> 
> ...


I read it, its still junk if you intend to use it as a through wall flashing which is what i thought they meant.


----------



## MLO (Jan 7, 2006)

I'm confused...This is a high end custom Craftsman style home. With-in reason, money for quality details is not a problem. I'm actually using copper valley flashing as everything will either clash with the shingle color or is junk material.

Any masons chiming in?


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

If you post a picture of the situation, that would help. Do you know if its going to be used as a through wall flashing or not?


----------



## MLO (Jan 7, 2006)

I am severely IT challenged currently. Not sure what "through the wall" flashing is. 

The flashing I am referencing is attatched to the bottom of the exterior sheathing/wall and is bent in a 90 degr. angle to also lay on top of the concrete brick ledge. The mortar and brick would be layed on top of it with the apporpiate weep holes. My understanding is that "this" flashing stays beneath everything (mortar, bricks, weeps). Not sure if it is actually bonded to the underlying foundation/brick ledge in any manner.


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

MLO said:


> I am severely IT challenged currently. Not sure what "through the wall" flashing is.
> 
> The flashing I am referencing is attatched to the bottom of the exterior sheathing/wall and is bent in a 90 degr. angle to also lay on top of the concrete brick ledge. The mortar and brick would be layed on top of it with the apporpiate weep holes. My understanding is that "this" flashing stays beneath everything (mortar, bricks, weeps). Not sure if it is actually bonded to the underlying foundation/brick ledge in any manner.


 Yeah thats through wall flashing. The only product I would use is a copper laminate flashing. http://www.advancedflashing.com/commercial-masonry-copperfabric.cfm Whatever you do, dont let the contractor (if you have one) cheap out on you for any kind of poly material. Its bad stuff in my opinion. I know several Architects that are involved in lawsuits right now for the stuff. 

You also need to seal the top of the flashing with a termination bar at 8 inches on center and with flashing mastic. Then either your felt paper or "tyvek" should counter flash it. I dont know what your local code is but the internation building code requires weeps at 33 inches on center.


----------



## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Copper through-wall is the only way to go. All these 'new' methods and materials come and GO on a regular basis. Usually with a different name each time.


----------



## MLO (Jan 7, 2006)

Well my probable/maybe mason chimed in and recomended a product like Graces "Ice shield". He said it stayed tight to the wall and ledge and was formable with a nice overlap in the corners.

I had never heard this, anyone?

TIA


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

MLO said:


> Well my probable/maybe mason chimed in and recomended a product like Graces "Ice shield". He said it stayed tight to the wall and ledge and was formable with a nice overlap in the corners.
> 
> I had never heard this, anyone?
> 
> TIA


Ice and Water Sheild is an excellant product for window wrapping, underlayment,etc. but it is not a through wall flashing. Ask him if he intends to use it as a through wall flashing. If he does the only acceptable materials are copper laminate and stainless steel. You are going to pay more but its worth it. If there is any dust present the ice and water sheild will not stick to the surface well, especially if its not primed.


----------



## MLO (Jan 7, 2006)

For clarification...My brick ledge is the same ledge the pt sill plate is j-bolted to. The foundation stem wall is 9" wide with 5" being used for the brick footing and 1" air-gap.

So my flashing will start on the wall, bend 90 degrees, and run onto the concrete brick ledge.

My intentions were to use Grace Ice-shield around the full perimeter of the home and attach what-ever flashing over the Ice-shield and onto the brick ledge. I would then run "60 minute" paper over the flashing and up the wall.

When describing this to a mason, he replied to just run the Ice shield in a 12" width and forming it into the 90 degree bend and onto the brick ledge.

I very much appreciate the input, Thanks!


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

Is this what you are describing?


----------



## MLO (Jan 7, 2006)

Yes, that is the flashing I'm refering to. In my case, the bricks and the pt 2x4 sill plate are on the same level/plane. The foundation wall is just simply 9''s instead of being stepped.

Thank you for your patience!


----------



## ncgrogan (Dec 3, 2006)

Is your grade (soil) right below the brick line? If so you will also need weeps spaced at least 33" on center but 16" or 24" is more common. The peel and stick MIGHT work for you but really there have been a lot of problems with using products like ice and water shield as through wall flashing. What you have there is a scenario where I would put nothing less than copper laminate flashings in. Its your house though, so you get to make the call  In my opinion if you have the brick out, why cut corners. If you decide to go with the copper flashings, you would want the top vertical edge sealed with a termination bar secured at 8 inches on center with non sag flashing mastic beneath the top of the flashing, on top of the termination bar, in between each lap of adjoining pieces of copper. The laps should be at least 3 inches. good luck


----------



## MLO (Jan 7, 2006)

ncgrogan, Thanks

I will look into purchasing the copper laminate flashing. My local lumber yard had no clue what it even was.

My soil/grade is 4-6 inches below my brick ledge. I have a perimeter drain around the entire house, which I have placed 2-3 inches of pea gravel over the backfill at grade.

Sounds like I also need to find a source for the accesories you mentioned. Then teach an old dog some new tricks


----------

