# Replacing facia board



## mattflytx (May 25, 2007)

I am looking to to replace some rotting facia board around the home and add a furring strip just below the edge of the shingles. 
Is it ok to use pine for the furring and facia as long as it is properly primed ands painted?

Also, if the shingle will extend 1/2" - 3/4" past the furring strip, do I still need to have the galvinized flashing in place?

Thank you in advance for any responses.

Matt


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mattflytx said:


> I am looking to to replace some rotting facia board around the home and add a furring strip just below the edge of the shingles.
> Is it ok to use pine for the furring and facia as long as it is properly primed ands painted?


For the fascia material: Yes, you can use Pre-primed pine.
Tip: Prime the ends (after cutting) too....prior to install and nailing.



mattflytx said:


> Also, if the shingle will extend 1/2" - 3/4" past the furring strip, do I still need to have the galvinized flashing in place?


You must mean OVER the furring strip. ?? I am not sure I understand what you are talking about.

...If you are referring to ground molding (1"x1" trim that is placed under the inside edge of the fascia). This is made of Fingerjointed cedar.

.....as far as using flashing: Do you mean a galvanized drip cap? or do you mean something else?


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## mattflytx (May 25, 2007)

Ok, maybe furring strip is the wrong term. Currently I have gutters attached to the front of the facia board. I will remove the gutters and only reattach in critical areas. I have noticed on some of the neighborhood houses that they have a 1" x 2" molding strip attached to the front of the facia right beneath the overhang of the shingles. If I were to add this peice and the overhang of the shingle would still be about 1/2" to 3/4", would I still need to have the drip cap (flashing that I refered to earlier)?

Do people use pressure treated lumber on eves and overhangs?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mattflytx said:


> I have noticed on some of the neighborhood houses that they have a 1" x 2" molding strip attached to the front of the facia right beneath the overhang of the shingles.


Again, you lost me. 

Are you speaking about the molding strip or the trim board attached under the soffit, against the house?

Example of Trim Board with a strip of 'bed molding' at the soffit:










Example of 1/4 round molding strip at the soffit:










Picture of cedar shake 'shingles' siding with base shoe style band strip at soffit:










Is it one of these styles or different? 



mattflytx said:


> Do people use pressure treated lumber on eves and overhangs?


No, never.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mattflytx said:


> Ok, maybe furring strip is the wrong term. Currently I have gutters attached to the front of the facia board. I will remove the gutters and only reattach in critical areas. I have noticed on some of the neighborhood houses that they have a 1" x 2" molding strip attached to the front of the facia right beneath the overhang of the shingles. If I were to add this peice and the overhang of the shingle would still be about 1/2" to 3/4", would I still need to have the drip cap (flashing that I refered to earlier)?
> 
> Do people use pressure treated lumber on eves and overhangs?


 
Ok, I think I figured out what you are speaking about.

You are speaking of the shadow board that is also shown in one of the pictures I posted (that is what we call them, other builders may have a different name for it).
Refer to picture #2 that I posted.

Looking at those pictures helped me to understand what you were referring to. You were speaking of the 'roof shingles', and I thought you were talking about 'siding shingles'. 

These are pre-primed pine. You can buy these in different 'quality levels'.

You will most definitely need an aluminum drip cap over that piece of trim. You can get these in different widths and different colors.


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## mattflytx (May 25, 2007)

Thank you much for your help. 

One last question: what type of lumber do you use for the soffit?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mattflytx said:


> Thank you much for your help.
> 
> One last question: what type of lumber do you use for the soffit?


That depends on if you are trying to match an existing soffit material. 

Modern materials are 3/4" Pre-primed pine. 

Example: If you look at the second pic I posted, you will see the soffit with 1x4 Pre-primed pine board, then a strip soffit vent, then another 1x4 Pre-primed pine board. The widths are dependant on the actual width of the soffit on the existing home or the architect's design.


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## mattflytx (May 25, 2007)

My overhang extends a little less than 2' and they used 1/4" thick material with 6" x 12" vents about every 10'. Most of the soffit wood is in good shape so I will just match with primed pine of the same dimensions.

Thank you.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mattflytx said:


> My overhang extends a little less than 2' and they used 1/4" thick material with 6" x 12" vents about every 10'. Most of the soffit wood is in good shape so I will just match with primed pine of the same dimensions.
> 
> Thank you.


 
1/4" material is probably 1/4" sanded plywood.


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## North Country (Nov 5, 2006)

When doing plywood soffits up in Northern Michigan, 3/8" No-Groove Fir panels are often used. This may be what you are refering to in the 1/4" plywood. Otherwise 3/4" Tongue and Groove Cedar is also a popular option among log homes.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

North Country said:


> When doing plywood soffits up in Northern Michigan, 3/8" No-Groove Fir panels are often used. This may be what you are refering to in the 1/4" plywood. Otherwise 3/4" Tongue and Groove Cedar is also a popular option among log homes.


:huh: Who said anything about this being a log home?


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## North Country (Nov 5, 2006)

Nobody said anything about this being a log home. I didn't mean to imply that I assumed it was. I was just giving examples of wood soffitting. The 3/8" is quite popular among T1-11, cement and vinyl sided homes, whereas the t&G is quite often limited to log style construction.


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## mudpaws (Oct 21, 2007)

I'm doing somewhat of the same type job. I plan to post pictures up on here of my individual eaves/soffits, or what actually is the sorry excuse for them. I recently purchased my home (during the last six months) and there are no gutters where there should be, VERY little space for an overhang at other spots, and I can see daylight in the back corner and header portion of my garage rear wall. I GOTTA post the photos so you can see. Just let me know, should I start my own thread, I don't wanna hijack this one on the guy....Thanks all!!


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mudpaws said:


> I'm doing somewhat of the same type job. I plan to post pictures up on here of my individual eaves/soffits, or what actually is the sorry excuse for them. I recently purchased my home (during the last six months) and there are no gutters where there should be, VERY little space for an overhang at other spots, and I can see daylight in the back corner and header portion of my garage rear wall. I GOTTA post the photos so you can see. Just let me know, should I start my own thread, I don't wanna hijack this one on the guy....Thanks all!!


You should start your own thread. It's the polite/correct thing to do, and you will get more alot more responses. 

Welcome to the site.


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## pavola (Nov 13, 2007)

mattflytx said:


> Also, if the shingle will extend 1/2" - 3/4" past the furring strip, do I still need to have the galvinized flashing in place?
> Matt


The previous rotting problem was probably due to the lack of drip cap or drip edge. In your case with only 1/2 - 3/4 of shingle overhang, I'd suggest using 1x2 drip edge (L-shaped) rather than D-style which would leave your shingles flush with the drip edge.


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