# Basement stair wall load bearing? (pictures)



## mics_54 (Sep 7, 2009)

What is above?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I'll wait for the next picture of above load, as mentioned. But, because they doubled the stairwell side joists to carry the doubled header joist with double hangers, and there are no posts or doubled studs in the walls below for an upper bearing point, it looks good to remove. I would suggest fixing the floor nails above that missed the joists from the deck sheathing. Bend them away from the joist (air nails) so they don't rub against the wood and squeak. Very hard to fix after drywall on ceiling. 
Be safe, Gary


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## barlav (Sep 20, 2009)

Hi, thank you for the replies. Above this stairwell is the stairwell going from the first floor to the second floor of the house. Is that what you mean by "what is above?"


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## mics_54 (Sep 7, 2009)

So...you have two stories and this basement. While it doesnt "look" like a load bearing wall...you should be prepared for some movement that results in cracking drywall and noticable changes in the rigidity of the stair. Your photos dont show much about the stairway and you didn't ask about that but those walls probably help support them.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

I was thinking the same thing mics. I'd like to see those walls go under the stringers providing support for them.


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## barlav (Sep 20, 2009)

Thanks, it's not a big deal if I end up keeping it closed up. I am going to have it looked at by someone and go from there.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Leaving the stud wall below (on the side) the stairs would still support the stairs

A local set of eyes for review is a good choice


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The main reason the wall is down there is to meet fire code in order to sell the house, after built. (Hence the single top plate) All the supporting joists are doubled, which is beyond code if the stair opening is under 4' wide. With only another set built directly above, and no other point loads, the wall is not required IF: the joists are 2x10's; they span 16' or less; they are hem/fir or another species with a fiber bending rating of 1150; and the side joists are one piece- full span. A single 2x10 df has a load rating of 1250# for a 13' span, and a doubled 2x10 has a rating of 2100#, if properly nailed together. Your upper stairs and the tail joists do not weigh that much. A tile floor or a point load would change this, so it is good to get a local (on site) opinion. 
If the billowing white plastic is covering fiberglass insulation on a concrete wall below grade, you will want to change that. Here are the why's and how's: http://www.buildingscienceseminars.com/presentations/bbbd2008/Basements-New&Retrofit.pdf
This on the white plastic vapor barrier or retarder: http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...rol-for-new-residential-buildings?full_view=1
Be safe, Gary


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## barlav (Sep 20, 2009)

thanks, yeah the billowing white plastic is insulation that the builder added when the house was built. It's nailed right into the concrete. Is the lack of inward drying the reason to change it?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Exactly! Here is more information in addition to the others: http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...ovating-your-basment/view?searchterm=basement The first site I gave you, on pages 8-11, shows your basement. 

2" extruded foam board glued to concrete (canned foam), 1" air space to wood framed wall on pressure treated plate on sill sealer (thermal break), with unfaced batt insulation and drywall or better yet, Denshield, and latex paint, no vapor barrier. Use the scrap pieces at the rim joists: http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html
Be safe, Gary


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## barlav (Sep 20, 2009)

thanks for that great info!


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You're welcome. Now you have to picture document the work for us!
Be safe, Gary


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## barlav (Sep 20, 2009)

will do!


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