# Replace dead latch with deadbolt?



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Yes, you can install a dead bolt in it's place. You will have to drill the hole bigger in some cases and will have to drill a 1 inch hole in the end of the door. Also you will have to fill in on the jamb and trim where the latch keeper is. It is a little work but doable.

If you have to drill a larger hole and you don't have a door boring jig, drill a hole in a piece of 3/4 inch plywood and clamp it to both sides of your door. Drill half way from each side to keep from messing up the door.

One more thing, be very careful boring the 1 inch hole, if the bit grabs it can bust your glass.


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## Philreardon (Jul 25, 2015)

I assume then it's also possible to replace the knob with a combination knob/deadbolt? The current latch keeper is installed all the way into the frame, so there's nothing for the bolt to grab onto if I remove it. 


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

The keeper for the bolt is surface mounted, there is wood behind the flange that the screws are in. It is mortised in and may have to be shimmed out a little but the striker will fit there. You will have to do some modifications but it is doable.

Are you wanting to put another dead bolt with the knob there? Yes you can install one there. You could just go with a dead bolt at the knob and either leave the other bolt in place or remove it and plug everything.


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## Philreardon (Jul 25, 2015)

I'm weighing my options. I think I like the option of installing one at the knob and plugging or leaving the latch. 


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## GrayHair (Apr 9, 2015)

Here are my recommendations and the reasoning behind each.

_Leave existing nightlatch in place --_ I wouldn't. Murphy's Law will get you sooner or later and you'll be locked out. (More below.)

_Replace existing nightlatch with deadbolt --_ I wouldn't. It can be a PITA. You're also left with a scar on the casing where the strike for the nightlatch was cut in. Repairing the scar would be an even bigger PITA.

_Replacing knoblock with deadbolt --_ I wouldn't. A single-cylinder deadbolt has nothing to grasp on the outside to pull the door shut and only the turn-knob on the inside to pull it open. A double-cylinder deadbolt has nothing to grasp on either side. The door won't reliably stay shut while you shovel the sidewalk or sweep the palm fronds (depending on your part of the country).

_Install deadbolt between nightlatch and knoblock --_ This is the way I would go (and do a little clean-up too). Your knoblock is a Kwikset so I would recommend a Kwikset 660 deadbolt (single-cylinder) or 665 (Double-cylinder) and have it keyed to your existing knoblock. I see a lot of wear on the knoblock and suggest getting a new pair (knoblock and deadbolt) that is Keyed Alike. One less key to carry. Check local ordinances to see if double-cylinder deadbolts are allowed.

Don't get too close to the knoblock. From the dress plates on the door and the extended strike on the jamb, I'd say a "remodel kit" was used to replace an old mortise lock.

This part I would start early in the morning after the deadbolt is installed. Have paint ready, remove nightlatch and rim cylinder, leaving the strike in place. Clean up the holes where the nightlatch mounted (wood putty, sandpaper, etc), prep and paint. After the paint is dry (this is why you started early), install dummy rim cylinder (shown below) with blue thread-locker on the screw).








I'd recommend making a jig. Many years ago I wrote instructions for a friend. Let me know if you are interested.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Buy a lock set:
Key in the knob and dead bolt.
Install the deadbolt above the current surface bolt unit.
Remove the spring loaded latch in the surface bolt
Leave the rest of the unit installed.


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