# Installing Corner Countertops on a corner that is not square?



## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

Set the countertops squared as close to the wall as possible, then scribe a line on the back side of the tops parallel with the walls then plane or sand the back side of countertops. recheck your work and make any necessary adjustments and complete your installation.


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## MinConst (Nov 23, 2004)

With preformed counters with precut 45s this is not as easy as it seems. You will need to do what Rehabber says but be sure when you scribe and check that the mitered corners are tight together. You would scribe the lines on the top of the back splash. You only have about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of material before you get to the upright section.
How far off is this anyway and how long is the counter.


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 7, 2004)

How far out is it? Can a backsplash cover the gap?


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## tjandt (Nov 4, 2005)

MinConst said:


> How far off is this anyway and how long is the counter.


When I square the counter against one wall, and run the other one along the other wall, it's off by about 1/2" at 8', about 3/8" at 6", 1/8" at 4', and flush to the rest of the studs into the corner. 

Would it be better to center the difference and plane both sides of the miter instead of squaring up one counter and just planing the other?

Thanks for all the help!

Tim


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

Do not plane the miter! You can take some of the difference off of the backsplash of each of the sides. Once you caulk in the backsplash, the different widths all but disappear.


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## tjandt (Nov 4, 2005)

Rehabber said:


> Do not plane the miter! You can take some of the difference off of the backsplash of each of the sides. Once you caulk in the backsplash, the different widths all but disappear.


Hehe, I think we got mixed up on terminology here. I'm not talking about planing the actual miter. I'm wondering if I should plane both counters instead of just one.

As an example, if I center the entire assembly (with miters tight), I'd be off on both sides by about 1/4" at 8', 3/16" at 6', etc, instead of being right against the wall on one side and off 1/2" at 8' on the other side.

The counters actually are pre-fab, and have the backsplash built-in, so I can't caulk it in. It would be a dream if it was a flat counter with a separate backsplash. 

Given how little it's off, I'm thinking of just centering it with miters tight and taking up the gap in the back with a bead of caulk.


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## Zero Punch (Nov 15, 2005)

I have no problem with using caulk, but if a little scribing and sanding will make a better job then why not do it? 

John


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## MinConst (Nov 23, 2004)

tj,
Unless your really good with a belt sander I would say go for the caulk. Split the difference like you said and calk the space with a matching color caulk. After a few days no-one will know but you and us.


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## tjandt (Nov 4, 2005)

Zero Punch said:


> I have no problem with using caulk, but if a little scribing and sanding will make a better job then why not do it?
> 
> John


My main concern is that with a pre-fab countertop with built-in backsplash, hitting it with a belt sander may end up chipping the formica off in such a way that not even caulk would fix. I figure the backsplash has to be caulked to prevent any water from possibly getting behind it anyway, so if I run a 1/4" bead instead of an 1/8" bead, it would still look just as good. 

THe moral of this for me is that in the future, I'll order countertops that have a separate backsplash that I can caulk in myself 

Thanks to everyone for all the advice!

Tim


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## Bonus (Aug 25, 2005)

"THe moral of this for me is that in the future, I'll order countertops that have a separate backsplash that I can caulk in myself"

The moral could be to measure the 'out of squareness' and order your countertop to fit it. Their mitre saws can handle this easily. That way you don't lose the formed backsplash that eliminates a weak spot for water infiltration at the counter where you would caulk a separate backsplash.


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