# How to patch a small hole in drywall



## RHeat

nice guide. Thanks


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## PD_Lape

Wow you made that look easy! Why mud though? I think clay or maybe even cheap sealants would make a cleaner look. 

-Paul

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## AKBoater

I'll be honest, it never occurred to me to use anything other than mud.


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## Vince86

This is a bit complicated. You can simply use a thin sheet of metal glue it to the hole and paint it. Done!


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## Sir MixAlot

Vince86 said:


> This is a bit complicated. You can simply use a thin sheet of metal glue it to the hole and paint it. Done!


:no: That's going to look a little funny.


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## AKBoater

I have to agree, but my mental picture may differ from reality. Got any pictures of a finished product? How are you able to blend the seams?


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## mske390

I've had good success using these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Boar...air-Self-Adhesive-Wall-Patch-54-007/100403177

I always put something behind it for support like you did


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## kumatae

*thank you!*

Definitely going to give that patch kit a try. Had to cut a hole to locate a leak on the ceiling inside of a closet. It'll be perfect since there's no traffic and no chance of anything hitting it and it doesn't have to be perfect since hardly anyone will even see it!


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## Scottg

Sadly, I've had to make and patch a lot of holes lately.

We had a couple of towel racks and stuff that loosened up. Rather than play the drywall anchor game, I said screw it, and just cut out a larger piece of wall. Then put in some nice 2x4s between studs creating a super solid place to mount the hardware screws.

To patch, I'll make sure the hole is squared off and if possible, overlaps 1/2 a stud so I don't have to do the extra wood trick as the original poster did. Of course, sometimes that's unavoidable.

For taping, after trying the flat tape, and the tape with holes in it, I've found the more expensive FibaTape works well. I'll put that directly on the seam, (no mud first), then do a layer of mud, sand, another layer, sand, and if necessary, a third. For sanding, a 3M fine grit sanding block works well. The keys are to set the drywall screws just right; just barely dimple the drywall matterial. And to take your time to get the sanding part right. It's a hassle, but important. (I wear an N95 mask when doing this and cover up any vents and such below with plastic; same as if painting. Makes cleanup easier.)

If I've sanded well, when the paint goes on - assuming quality paint - you can barely tell there's a patch, if at all. If I've rushed the sanding, well... you either live with something slightly noticeable or do a lot more sanding to re-do again.


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## BrowneBearLLC

I photo has it right; however the mud is a little thick. Less is better with more sanding and layers in between. Also, the wood that is used for the backer is usually crosses the hole and screwed on both side.

Tim will not hold mud right and will fall off.
Sealant will never get the right taper required to make it disappear


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## paw1985

Nice guide.


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## Hoyler

Thanks for sharing


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## craig11152

The only thing I do differently is to use plywood as my backer to avoid possibly splitting the wood with my screws.


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## intelpcguy

if you use fine drywall screw as opposed to coarse, they do not split the wood, and I use #2 pine for my patches, but try to screw across 2 edges verse 1. It's also easy to ge thew drywall screw seated just below flush ( shallow dimple ) with a fine verses a coarse screw.


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## Thunder Chicken

For some patches you can put a screw in the middle of the wood strip, tie a string to it (so when you inevitably drop it in the wall you can get it back), put it into the wall and, while holding the center screw, turn the wood so it lays across the back of the hole and put a screw into both sides. This prevents any springboard effect from only screwing one side, not such a problem on small holes near studs but it's a bigger deal for larger holes that are far away from the studs.


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## Sir MixAlot

Thunder Chicken said:


> For some patches you can put a screw in the middle of the wood strip, tie a string to it (so when you inevitably drop it in the wall you can get it back), put it into the wall and, while holding the center screw, turn the wood so it lays across the back of the hole and put a screw into both sides. This prevents any springboard effect from only screwing one side, not such a problem on small holes near studs but it's a bigger deal for larger holes that are far away from the studs.


Yes that is a much better way to do it. Here's a thread I put together with a video of this exact technique. :thumbup:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-repair-doorknob-hole-drywall-215402/


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## Thunder Chicken

Good video. The nice thing about this repair is that you have some wood to support the door knob bumper, acts like a wall anchor.


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