# Replacing Basement Drop Ceiling w/Drywall



## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

Hi all, I'm new to the forum and happy to have found it. 


I have a basement with a drop ceiling/acoustic tile that I want to change to a smooth drywall ceiling with recessed lighting etc. I need to keep the ceiling suspended at the height that the drop ceiling is currently at because there is so much ductwork, plumbing etc. I know USG makes a grid system designed for this sort of thing, but I am wondering if there is some way to leverage the existing grid that supports the acoustic tiles rather than tearing it all out and installing a new USG or framed lumber grid. Could I attach vertical 2x4 or something like that from the joists to the existing metal grid at certain intervals to provide rigidity and then mount the drywall to the existing grid?

Also, this may be too specific to local code (I'm in NC), but just in case, I know you can't have junction boxes completely concealed behind drywall in normal drywall to stud installations, but in a case of a suspended drywall ceiling with an access panel somewhere in the room, would the same restrictions apply?

Thanks in advance!


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

consider replacing the old tiles with fresh new ones.
you can use recessed lights with them as well.


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## dougp23 (Sep 20, 2011)

TarheelTerp said:


> consider replacing the old tiles with fresh new ones.
> you can use recessed lights with them as well.


I *like* this suggestion. I have drywall ceilings in the basement and don't care for them. There is too much going on in the ceiling of a basement to not have easy access to it, IMHO. (can't follow plumbing, trace wires, add wires, etc etc).


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## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. I haven't officially ruled out nicer ceiling tiles with recessed lighting, but I don't think it's going to fly with the wife, it's kind of the standard for max resale in my neighborhood to drywall the basement ceilings. Also, I will have plenty of visibility into the ceiling through large access panels planned in the closets.

So, what about leveraging/fortifying my existing drop ceiling grid and mounting drywall to it instead of tearing it out in favor of all new framing or USG metal grid?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

For drywall you need something more solid then the drop ceiling track. You can get metal channels or use 2x4's.


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

Before you go the drywall route...
plan to have the mechanical items (plumbing, electtric, duct, etc) that extend below the joists dealt with to get as much as possible ABOVE the joists and/or islated to as few spots as possible so that soffits and/or a few access hatches are all you'll need for the INEVITABLE service work you'll need to do later.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

If you go with the new ceiling panels: You can also paint the track to whiten them up before installing new panels. Use spray can (rattle can) paint. 

You may also consider changing out the recessed lights to smaller, more efficient and better-lighting units (everything there is already wired - just would have to install new properly-rated, and appropriate "cans").


There are also a lot of nicer looking panel textures and designs out there, besides what the Big Box Stores carry. Check out USG and Armstrong:

http://www.usg.com/ceilings/acoustical-panels.html

http://www.armstrong.com/armstrong_ceilings.jsp


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## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

mae-ling said:


> For drywall you need something more solid then the drop ceiling track. You can get metal channels or use 2x4's.


I guess what I was envisioning was that the drop ceiling track already has some strength when pulling down on it, but not enough for drywall, but because it is suspended to the joists above with heavy wire, isn't rigid enough to screw up into, and would definitely need to be supplemented with 2x4 connecting joist to metal track. If I did a vertical 2x4 connecting metal track to joist every 24" or so, then I could screw the drywall up through the metal track into the 2x4 ends as well as occasionally into the metal track. This would save me having to tear out all the track as well as having to build a complete support system from scratch.

You feel this couldn't be done in such a way as to be strong and stable enough?


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## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

TarheelTerp said:


> Before you go the drywall route...
> plan to have the mechanical items (plumbing, electtric, duct, etc) that extend below the joists dealt with to get as much as possible ABOVE the joists and/or islated to as few spots as possible so that soffits and/or a few access hatches are all you'll need for the INEVITABLE service work you'll need to do later.


I hear that, but the reason I'm looking to go with suspended drywall instead of standard drywall installation and boxing in ductwork is because there is so much that would have to be moved. To me, the fact that it would be suspended about a foot below the joists and have access panels would mean that even though it might not save me from having to cut drywall to fix anything that goes wrong in there, I would at least be able to see where the issues were before doing so, so I'd be able to plan and cut only where needed. I agree there is no doubt that there will be a time I will have to get at stuff up there. The thing is, for a lot of buyers, you could have beautiful drop ceilings and lighting, but the fact that it's a drop ceiling at all will always say "basement" rather than "primary living space". Since my basement is a daylight/walkout type with 7 foot ceiling height (even with the drop ceilings) and french doors and stuff like that, I think it would be best for my home's value to be able to sell that space as true living space, and drywall ceilings will lend itself best to that. 

Like I said, I'm not 100% committed to the drywall yet, just leaning that way for the reasons above.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

sadic1 said:


> I guess what I was envisioning was that the drop ceiling track already has some strength when pulling down on it, but not enough for drywall, but because it is suspended to the joists above with heavy wire, isn't rigid enough to screw up into, and would definitely need to be supplemented with 2x4 connecting joist to metal track. If I did a vertical 2x4 connecting metal track to joist every 24" or so, then I could screw the drywall up through the metal track into the 2x4 ends as well as occasionally into the metal track. This would save me having to tear out all the track as well as having to build a complete support system from scratch.
> 
> You feel this couldn't be done in such a way as to be strong and stable enough?


You MUST get away from this entire concept of trying to use the track to install drywall onto (or part-of) in any way, shape, form or fashion. You can wish it to be-so, and you can analyze this to death = but its just not feasible.

Its not just about the primary fact that the track system is not designed to hold that kind of additonal weight, there is also the important point that whatever you install sheetrock (drywall) onto - has to be completely stable, stationary and very solid, so as to avoid movement and vibrations that will create cracks in new drywall.

You really need to drop that concept and; either tear it all down and install a framed ceiling & drywall (and yes, you can hang the interior spans from overhead joists using vertical 2x4's or steel framing - OR - stick with a dedicated drop (acoustic) ceiling track-grid system with (possibly new) tile panels.


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## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> You MUST get away from this entire concept of trying to use the track to install drywall onto (or part-of) in any way, shape, form or fashion. You can wish it to be-so, and you can analyze this to death = but its just not feasible.
> 
> Its not just about the primary fact that the track system is not designed to hold that kind of additonal weight, there is also the important point that whatever you install sheetrock (drywall) onto - has to be completely stable, stationary and very solid, so as to avoid movement and vibrations that will create cracks in new drywall.
> 
> You really need to drop that concept and; either tear it all down and install a framed ceiling & drywall (and yes, you can hang the interior spans from overhead joists using vertical 2x4's or steel framing - OR - stick with a dedicated drop (acoustic) ceiling track-grid system with (possibly new) tile panels.


 
Thank you, that was the kind of definitive answer I was looking for!


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## pesos (Nov 6, 2011)

sadic1 said:


> ...but the fact that it's a drop ceiling at all will always say "basement" rather than "primary living space". Since my basement is a daylight/walkout type with 7 foot ceiling height (even with the drop ceilings) and french doors and stuff like that, I think it would be best for my home's value to be able to sell that space as true living space, and drywall ceilings will lend itself best to that.


I would agree 10-15 years ago on drop ceilings maybe looking tacky or cheap but, today the options are so much better for sound proofing and quality. As posted, stay away from the big box. They offer little in design and available options.

Another point to consider. My neighbor switched to full drywall in his basement and regretted the day they had a water leak from upstairs bathroom. They had to rip out the ceiling, fix the problems above, and then
pay to put it all back together (and it does not look good as the patch repair was not feathered as well as it should have been done). With so much mechanical support (electrical, cable, water, possible gas, etc) I would rather have full access at all times if needed.


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## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

Negotiations with the wife are ongoing. I'm going to be doing the floors first anyway, so that buys me some time to figure it out. The main problem with even the nice looking ceilings I'm seeing from Armstrong, USG, etc, is that for our taste, if we were doing a ceiling tile of some kind, 2 x 2 looks too small, 2 x 4 looks too "basementy", and neither of those companies seem to make 4 x 4 tiles, which is actually something that I think could look good, especially if I can make a support track that looks like box beam. I did find one company that seems to make a 4 x 4, but I haven't heard of them before, and I'm guessing 4 x 4 isn't popular because they probably have more potential sag over time.


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## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

There is such a thing as a drywall grid? if so any info would be welcome.


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## sadic1 (Mar 14, 2012)

I'd be curious about that, too. I actually like the idea of building a box beam grid and throwing 4 x 4 sheets of drywall up there as "tiles". That would mitigate the problems of dealing with mechanicals because if you needed to get to something you could lift up one drywall square, and if something leaked onto it, you could replace 1 drywall square with no joint compound or finishing needed. I am guessing 4 x 4 spans of drywall might sag, though? How about 3 x 3 I wonder?


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## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

sadic1 said:


> I'd be curious about that, too. I actually like the idea of building a box beam grid and throwing 4 x 4 sheets of drywall up there as "tiles". That would mitigate the problems of dealing with mechanicals because if you needed to get to something you could lift up one drywall square, and if something leaked onto it, you could replace 1 drywall square with no joint compound or finishing needed. I am guessing 4 x 4 spans of drywall might sag, though? How about 3 x 3 I wonder?


you and me both.


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## pesos (Nov 6, 2011)

I am using a 2x2 recessed panel and I think it looks good with recessed lights
and blends in well. Not too complicated and easy to work with for access above. A 2x2 panel is easier to replace than a 4x4 or something like it, IMO. Also easier to store if you decide to save some panels for the future.


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## CARSMills (Mar 11, 2012)

*Drywall grid system*



Hardway said:


> There is such a thing as a drywall grid? if so any info would be welcome.


I found this source for a drywall grid system, although I've never used anything like this for an overhead drywall application. Maybe it will give you an option to consider for unusual reno situations.

Ron

http://www.armstrong.com/commceilingsna/article63637.html


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