# Replacing 1-3/4" doors with 1-3/8" doors...



## oh'mike

Yikes----are you sure you don't want to return them and get the correct size?

Here is what needs doing-----

Remove the stop molding--it's 3/8 inch to deep---

I believe the exisiting hinged may be larger than needed for 1 3/8 " door --if so fill the hinge mortice--

Now --cut the hinges into the jamb and door---mount door--replace the door stop molding--drill out the lock holes--reset the latch plate in the jamb---


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## rossfingal

Pull the existing door out - check that it fits OK -
Lay the existing door on the new slab -
Mark the exact place of the hinges - on the new slab -
Measure the distance from the hinges to the face of the door -
You're going from 1 3/4 to 1 3/8? -
1 3/4? - you might have 1/4 to 1/8 between the hinge and the surface of the door (outside surface)
1 3/8? - compensate for the reduced thickness off the door.
You won't have to move the stops.

"RF"


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## rossfingal

Or -
Do what "--M--" says -
get 1 3/4 inch slabs.


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## oh'mike

rossfingal said:


> Pul
> 1 3/8? - compensate for the reduced thickness off the door.
> You won't have to move the stops.
> 
> "RF"


Won't that look rather odd having the door set 3/8" back in the jamb?


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## rossfingal

oh'mike said:


> Won't that look rather odd having the door set 3/8" back in the jamb?


I don't know how "odd" anything would, or might look -
I'd probably just get 1 3/4 inch slabs -
(I don't design - I install).

"RF"


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## rossfingal

I did have to put in 1 3/4 inch slabs where the existing was 1 3/8 inch -
had to move the stops.


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## brizak79

I would return the doors, but they were special order & I don't think I can , especially after 4-5 months. The biggest concern I see is getting the latch to line up with the existing catch. I was thinking if I moved the hinges on the door back 3/16", and move the stop 3/16", everything would remain centered...


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## oh'mike

See what size hinge is on the door now---3 1/2" is typical for 1 3/8" interior doors--

4" is typically used for 1 3/4"---if you want to have the door flush to the front of the jamb you will need 3 1/2" hinges---meaning the jambs might need filling in order to accommodate the smaller hinge.

If you wish to keep the 4 " hinges--you have little choice--the door must be set to the stops as they are now---which will mean that the reveil on the lock side will be a bit wider than the usual 1/8" and the lock catch on the jamb will need to be set a bit deeper onto the jamb.


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## brizak79

The current hinges are 3-1/2", so I won't have to change them. I think I am gonna try to move the stops back 3/8" & then re-drill for the catch if needed...


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## oh'mike

You own the doors,so you need to make them work----start with a door that is not 'high visibility' while you work out the bugs--

Look in the 'how to' section--Willie T has a very good one on hanging replacement slabs--


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## hand drive

brizak79 said:


> The current hinges are 3-1/2", so I won't have to change them. I think I am gonna try to move the stops back 3/8" & then re-drill for the catch if needed...



yep, pop the old door stops and install the door flush to the outer edge of the door jamb so it swings correctly. put the stop back on after door is installed and use the door as a gauge/guide to determine exact stop placement while using the outer edge of the jamb to position door flush. attach strike plate to accommodate new door adjusting plate as needed to keep door tight to the stop. A tip, leave the stop on the hinge side of frame a hair shy of door slab so as not to bind when door shuts( painting later may cause a bind also if to tight). the stop on the strike side of the jamb needs to be good and tight.


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