# New Stairs



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If it was mine I'd remove and replace the whole thing.
There should have been a 2 X 12 ledger at the top to attach the stringers to, there should have been three stringers, not just two, also there's no gripable hand railing.
Also many areas call for riser covers.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

joecaption said:


> If it was mine I'd remove and replace the whole thing.
> There should have been a 2 X 12 ledger at the top to attach the stringers to, there should have been three stringers, not just two, also there's no gripable hand railing.
> Also many areas call for riser covers.


I'm going to be replacing everything except the platform. the Deck Platform is 3x6 and really is only to get into the apartment. No room to put furniture or anything I am not to concerned about the platform itself. I am replacing bad work that the previous owner left. While I am no expert I am trying to do everything up to local code. I had somebody help me design the platform and fix rot under the door frame in a small area in the fall. I dont remember why I didnt use the larger ledger but I had a reason.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I'm going to be replacing everything except the platform. the Deck Platform is 3x6 and really is only to get into the apartment. No room to put furniture or anything I am not to concerned about the platform itself. I am replacing bad work that the previous owner left. While I am no expert I am trying to do everything up to local code. I had somebody help me design the platform and fix rot under the door frame in a small area in the fall. I dont remember why I didnt use the larger ledger but I had a reason.





joecaption said:


> If it was mine I'd remove and replace the whole thing.
> There should have been a 2 X 12 ledger at the top to attach the stringers to, there should have been three stringers, not just two, also there's no gripable hand railing.
> Also many areas call for riser covers.


That platform is absolutely solid though. Im pretty happy with it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

joecaption said:


> If it was mine I'd remove and replace the whole thing.
> There should have been a 2 X 12 ledger at the top to attach the stringers to, there should have been three stringers, not just two, also there's no gripable hand railing.
> Also many areas call for riser covers.


The stringers are the pieces that the steps lay on correct? I also am not sure what riser covers are.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

joecaption said:


> If it was mine I'd remove and replace the whole thing.
> There should have been a 2 X 12 ledger at the top to attach the stringers to, there should have been three stringers, not just two, also there's no gripable hand railing.
> Also many areas call for riser covers.


If the stringers are the diagonal pieces though that is the main reason im replacing the steps. The piece connected to the cinder block is really getting bad.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Lag shields are a good option


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

If one piece stringer, it doesn't have to be fastened to the wall. Also you can add 2x stiffener to the bottom edge. Maybe it's the photo but the stringer looks like it's longer than necessary? Like it has 11" tread and 5" risers or such? 10 or 11 tread and about 7.5 riser. If a rental, and you're give this job, not necessary to add more cost such as riser facings.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> That platform is absolutely solid though. Im pretty happy with it.


You don't for see a problem, by your questions, I think you are a bit clueless about stairs. 
I am not trying to be mean but if you want to build stairs you have much to learn.
Why is there no flashing on the ledger for the new deck?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

carpdad said:


> If one piece stringer, it doesn't have to be fastened to the wall. Also you can add 2x stiffener to the bottom edge. Maybe it's the photo but the stringer looks like it's longer than necessary? Like it has 11" tread and 5" risers or such? 10 or 11 tread and about 7.5 riser. If a rental, and you're give this job, not necessary to add more cost such as riser facings.


When I replaced the platform I dropped it down about 6 inches I think that might be why the stringer looks Long. I am still learning these terms to be honest with you Im not sure what a stiffener is. The treads are 11" and the risers have up to a 1" variance. between 5 1/2" and 6 1/2". This is turning into a rental though I was not originally planning for it to be. I don't mind some of the extra costs on things if it makes them safer. Ive also been wonder on the best way to attach the stringers to the Platform. I think its a proper ledger with carriage bolts or something and then it appears that different hangers exist to attach the stringers. Last question is really about when drilling into the cinder blocks should i start really small and step up size by size with low pressure to reduce risk of cracking?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't for see a problem, by your questions, I think you are a bit clueless about stairs.
> I am not trying to be mean but if you want to build stairs you have much to learn.
> Why is there no flashing on the ledger for the new deck?


I am pretty clueless I just need a general direction I have the flashing for it and siding for the wall I just want to see how the stringers they are called end up sitting the piece sticking up is also blocking the new siding The stringer that is currently attached was apparently placed over the siding. I know what I end up with will not be professional I just want to make sure that it is safe and properly attached to the cinderblock. I have more of an idea then my questions make it seem. One of the problems is not knowing exactly how to ask the questions. Honestly though if I run into issues after I do the demolition I am just going to hire somebody I am on a time crunch.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't for see a problem, by your questions, I think you are a bit clueless about stairs.
> I am not trying to be mean but if you want to build stairs you have much to learn.
> Why is there no flashing on the ledger for the new deck?


You actually helped me build my platform in the fall. I Don't know why i didn't just cut the wood or the flashing and put it in. the area gets a lot of sun. and water doesnt seem to well. Not much I can do about the sun hitting it all day. Maybe A coating or something.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't for see a problem, by your questions, I think you are a bit clueless about stairs.
> I am not trying to be mean but if you want to build stairs you have much to learn.
> Why is there no flashing on the ledger for the new deck?


If you mean the ledger at the top of the stairs it is not a ledger. The stairs that the old owner built had no ledger The piece of wood at the top is a removable piece I believe is how you helped me do it so that I could come back and easily remove the stairs. It was like 6-7 months ago so I dont really expect you to remember haha.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't for see a problem, by your questions, I think you are a bit clueless about stairs.
> I am not trying to be mean but if you want to build stairs you have much to learn.
> Why is there no flashing on the ledger for the new deck?


The ledger has back flashing and I have the cracks sealed with flashing tape


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't for see a problem, by your questions, I think you are a bit clueless about stairs.
> I am not trying to be mean but if you want to build stairs you have much to learn.
> Why is there no flashing on the ledger for the new deck?


On another note I do not think that you sound mean. I know construction always has problems I just dont think it will get to crazy. I come to this forum because the people are genuine and offer honest advice and opinions Typically backed by years and years of knowledge. It is a very friendly and nice community. I know I have tons to learn.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The ledger has back flashing and I have the cracks sealed with flashing tape


Should be able to see if from below?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Should be able to see if from below?
> View attachment 692196


So I didnt wrap it far enough down? I have it going right up to the edge. Dont suppose that I have a whole lot I can do about it now though.
Edit: Wouldnt be hard to take the deck board off I guess.


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

@* LearningTrades 


You might re-think what you think you know.*

If you want the build and install to be correct,
Listen to what @*Nealtw instructs you to do.

*


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Thom Paine said:


> @* LearningTrades
> 
> 
> You might re-think what you think you know.*
> ...


I absolutely will and I appreciate all of the advice and opinion I get here. He helped me build my platform last fall actually. I wouldn't be here if I thought I could do it all myself to be honest. Sorry I didn't mean to come off cocky and know I will run into problems as most construction has especially when newer DIYers are involved.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Should be able to see if from below?
> View attachment 692196


Second is the removable board to make stair removal easier for me after we built the platform in the fall.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So I didnt wrap it far enough down? I have it going right up to the edge. Dont suppose that I have a whole lot I can do about it now though.
> Edit: Wouldnt be hard to take the deck board off I guess.


Fair enough. if it is there good , I do remember the deck but were you using a different handle then? 
I just want you to know that you do not know what you don't know. 
Asking the wrong questions can bring the wrong answers 
Measure your rise and tread with a square


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Fair enough. if it is there good , I do remember the deck but were you using a different handle then?
> I just want you to know that you do not know what you don't know.
> Asking the wrong questions can bring the wrong answers
> Measure your rise and tread with a square
> View attachment 692204


Yeah, I am not sure what happened to my other account I went inactive for like 3-4 months though. I'll go do that now The distances vary though, the work is pretty subpar around this place. I do appreciate everything here though even and especially the "tough love" lol its how things get done.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah, I am not sure what happened to my other account I went inactive for like 3-4 months though. I'll go do that now The distances vary though, the work is pretty subpar around this place. I do appreciate everything here though even and especially the "tough love" lol its how things get done.


Measure a few and just give us the average, the slope looks uncomfortably low.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure a few and just give us the average, the slope looks uncomfortably low.


Sorry encountered my elderly neighbors havent seen them in awhile wouldnt want to rush them speaking. The average is about 5 1/2" they are really varied some are just above 6 1/2" and the lowest is just under 5". The tread seems to be the same general length but some are offset with a slight space as in they dont overhang/overlap slightly as in your photo.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry encountered my elderly neighbors havent seen them in awhile wouldnt want to rush them speaking. The average is about 5 1/2" they are really varied some are just above 6 1/2" and the lowest is just under 5". The tread seems to be the same general length but some are offset with a slight space as in they dont overhang/overlap slightly as in your photo.


All about the same but what is it? Nose doesn't matter just read the square.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> All about the same but what is it? Nose doesn't matter just read the square.


Sorry thought I put the number 11 1/4"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry thought I put the number 11 1/4"


We need a total height of the top deck but not from the ground, It needs to be the height down to the landing.








Then you want to check if the concrete is level against the house.
And then the distance from the corner of the house to the deck 
And the short end of the landing to the deck.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We need a total height of the top deck but not from the ground, It needs to be the height down to the landing.
> View attachment 692220
> 
> Then you want to check if the concrete is level against the house.
> ...


I believe the height of the deck to landing is 112 1/2 inches I measured from the deck to the cinder block then the landing to the top of the cinder block and added the heights is that correct? I am attaching a photo of the landing it appears its only sitting on wood. Getting the other 2 measurements now.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I believe the height of the deck to landing is 112 1/2 inches I measured from the deck to the cinder block then the landing to the top of the cinder block and added the heights is that correct? I am attaching a photo of the landing it appears its only sitting on wood. Getting the other 2 measurements now.


Close enough for now, need real accuracy when it is time to cut them.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

The measurement from the deck to the edge of wood the stairs are landed on is 185 inches and the corner of the house is 12 1/2 inches further then that so 197 1/2 inches to the corner.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Close enough for now, need real accuracy when it is time to cut them.





LearningTrades said:


> The measurement from the deck to the edge of wood the stairs are landed on is 185 inches and the corner of the house is 12 1/2 inches further then that so 197 1/2 inches to the corner.


These measurements might be off alittle but it should be by much not sure about the deck to the landing I was trying to figure out the best way to do it quickly.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> These measurements might be off alittle but it should be by much not sure about the deck to the landing I was trying to figure out the best way to do it quickly.


Measure on the ground and look up and get a close estimate.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure on the ground and look up and get a close estimate.


Thats how I measured those ones and from the post it lines up well and I can measure the differences. I also just measured from the Landing to the paving stones of the same size underneath the Landing and got right around that same 112 1/2 number. I'm not sure how to get the completely accurate measurements for the cuts. I also believe that I will need a new landing.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thats how I measured those ones and from the posts they line up well and I can measure the differences. I also just measured from the Landing to the paving stones of the same size underneath the Landing and got right around that same 112 1/2 number. I'm not sure how to get the completely accurate measurements for the cuts. I also believe that I will need a new landing.


I got that, how far is it to the corner of the house from the deck?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I got that, how far is it to the corner of the house from the deck?


197 1/2" 12 1/2" inches further then the 185" for the landing is what I got measured 3 times


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 197 1/2" 12 1/2" inches further then the 185" for the landing is what I got measured 3 times


So the stairs now are just sitting in the dirt with a concrete step in front?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> 197 1/2" 12 1/2" inches further then the 185" for the landing





Nealtw said:


> So the stairs now are just sitting in the dirt with a concrete step in front?


They are on a piece of wood sitting on the dirt. That is starting to rot out. Sub par work all over this place I want to avoid the same mistakes.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> They are on a piece of wood sitting on the dirt. That is starting to rot out. Sub par work all over this place I want to avoid the same mistakes.


So now it is about educating you on stairs so you can make the decisions on what you want. 
When we cut stairs we always cut the stringers with a 10" tread cut you can make the actual treads 11" or 11 1/4" like you have now. 
The riser height is what does change, we always want it to be between 6 3/4 and 7 3/4 if we can get it. 
If we divide 112.5 by 15 risers we get 7.5" the end of the stringer would land 140" from the deck
If we divide 112 by 16 risers we get 7" the end of the stringer would land at 150" from the deck. 
The top of the deck counts as a tread, so there is always one less tread as the rises. 
So in this picture you see 3 rises and only 2 treads.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So now it is about educating you on stairs so you can make the decisions on what you want.
> When we cut stairs we always cut the stringers with a 10" tread cut you can make the actual treads 11" or 11 1/4" like you have now.
> The riser height is what does change, we always want it to be between 6 3/4 and 7 3/4 if we can get it.
> If we divide 112.5 by 15 risers we get 7.5" the end of the stringer would land 140" from the deck
> ...


First and foremost I appreciate your time again and Your diagrams are always so great.. I've looked at many posts and other threads you have helped people also. For me the slightly shorter 7" 16 risers would be better I'm fairly short so I think that would be good. It is interesting though I never noticed the discomfort walking up the stairs until you mentioned it lol they are weird. I also do like the Slightly Wider steps. as they are now if that is viable. If it really doesn't make a difference though I might just go with what wood looks better at the lumber yard.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So now it is about educating you on stairs so you can make the decisions on what you want.
> When we cut stairs we always cut the stringers with a 10" tread cut you can make the actual treads 11" or 11 1/4" like you have now.
> The riser height is what does change, we always want it to be between 6 3/4 and 7 3/4 if we can get it.
> If we divide 112.5 by 15 risers we get 7.5" the end of the stringer would land 140" from the deck
> ...


Have you heard of Canada's Best Gourmet Food Shipped to Your Door on Goldbelly I've still tried to think of ideas for a way to send you something. The sense of pride I get walking over my little deck platform is still really cool. Its also gotten me into other home repairs. I diagnosed and installed a toilet after some trial error and headache and have learned a fair bit about faucet plumbing. I really do enjoy the carpentry more though. I want to try and make something with all this scrap wood. I have dabbled some but just havent had the time started a new job in January.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> First and foremost I appreciate your time again and Your diagrams are always so great.. I've looked at many posts and other threads you have helped people also. For me the slightly shorter 7" 16 risers would be better I'm fairly short so I think that would be good. It is interesting though I never noticed the discomfort walking up the stairs until you mentioned it lol they are weird. I also do like the Slightly Wider steps. as they are now if that is viable. If it really doesn't make a difference though I might just go with what wood looks better at the lumber yard.


Usually we cut them at 10" and do 2 2x6 for the treads when they are wet that is close to 11 1/4 and then when dry a little less with a gap between but really the usable area where you walk is still 10 inches. 
It looks like you might be able to make the new concrete landing before you remove the old. 
Then we can talk about the landing.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Usually we cut them at 10" and do 2 2x6 for the treads when they are wet that is close to 11 1/4 and then when dry a little less with a gap between but really the usable area where you walk is still 10 inches.
> It looks like you might be able to make the new concrete landing before you remove the old.
> Then we can talk about the landing.
> View attachment 692240


Ok so pouring a concrete landing would be the first thing to do?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Usually we cut them at 10" and do 2 2x6 for the treads when they are wet that is close to 11 1/4 and then when dry a little less with a gap between but really the usable area where you walk is still 10 inches.
> It looks like you might be able to make the new concrete landing before you remove the old.
> Then we can talk about the landing.
> View attachment 692240


I also noticed something im semi worried about. I mentioned it really sits in the sun it looks like one of my posts is warped. I was going to replace them also. I thought it might be easier given the situation after or at some point during the new steps. The one that is warped though is the corner of the deck platform. The post is level on 2 sides and honestly seems solid all things considered though. Sorry to distract


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I also noticed something im semi worried about. I mentioned it really sits in the sun it looks like one of my posts is warped. I was going to replace them also. I thought it might be easier given the situation after or at some point during the new steps. The one that is warped though is the corner of the deck platform. The post is level on 2 sides and honestly seems solid all things considered though. Sorry to distract


Add a 2x6 to the inside nail the top section flush with the edge for the few feet that it is flush.
Then wedge it over with a 2x4 from the house on an angle and as it line up flush add nails until you have it flush top to bottom flush with the post and nailed. Fixed.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Add a 2x6 to the inside nail the top section flush with the edge for the few feet that it is flush.
> Then wedge it over with a 2x4 from the house on an angle and as it line up flush add nails until you have it flush top to bottom flush with the post and nailed. Fixed.
> View attachment 692242
> Awesome I am alot less worried now I can get that done tomorrow as soon as the yard opens. Thank you.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> a


So 112" is ground level you can do the landing a few ways. 
You can just do a pad to land on and plan for a side walk to the corner. 








But that would leave the bottom of the stringers more likely to be sitting in water. 
You could raise it a few inches so the sidewalk would slope down to the corner. 
Or you could make the bottom step concrete


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So 112" is ground level you can do the landing a few ways.
> You can just do a pad to land on and plan for a side walk to the corner.
> View attachment 692243
> 
> ...


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So 112" is ground level you can do the landing a few ways.
> You can just do a pad to land on and plan for a side walk to the corner.
> View attachment 692243
> 
> ...


If I go with the concrete option do the strings rest on top or do you actually set them in the concrete? Probably a silly question I think that it just rests. Its been awhile since I have poured concrete but you just build a frame check the level mix and pour right?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> If I go with the concrete option do the strings rest on top or do you actually set them in the concrete? Probably a silly question I think that it just rests. Its been awhile since I have poured concrete but you just build a frame check the level mix and pour right?


They sit on top and yes it is just a frame well a little more to it but yes.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> They sit on top and yes it is just a frame well a little more to it but yes.


Ok awesome. Might be over to get over to Lowes in time to get concrete Ive got a haul to the store though hour and a half round trip.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok awesome. Might be over to get over to Lowes in time to get concrete Ive got a haul to the store though hour and a half round trip.


We have to figure how to get accurate measurement and the design of the landing before you figure the concrete needed?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We have to figure how to get accurate measurement and the design of the landing before you figure the concrete needed?


I am always rushing things


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Second is the removable board to make stair removal easier for me after we built the platform in the fall.


With a long level you can just draw a plumb line down from the edge of the deck and across the house and then all math can be done from that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> With a long level you can just draw a plumb line down from the edge of the deck and across the house and then all math can be done from that.


Is this to get the completely accurate measurement of the deck heigh to the Landing my longest level is 4 feet if that is good. Sorry If I am misunderstanding I also may have messed up 112" was the height to the landing platform to the ground would be the 112" plus the width of the paver that I measured. paver is just under 1/1/2" of the ground the wood that the stairs rest on rises about 1 1/3rd inch off of the ground.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Is this to get the completely accurate measurement of the deck heigh to the Landing. Sorry If I am misunderstanding I also may have messed up 112" was the height to the landing platform to the ground would be the 112" plus the width of the paver that I measured. paver is just under 1/1/2" of the ground the wood that the stairs rest on rises about 1 1/3rd inch off of the ground.


Yes we are after and for you to figure a good height for the top of the side walk from the corner to the stairs. 
Then we need and exact height from that to the top of the deck 
We can make almost anything work but it might not be a nice round number like 7" risers.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

sorry taking me a few trys just about have it my tape measure sucks any suggestion on a good brand? im learning fast its worth it to buy good tools


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

101 + 12 3/4" 101 is to the side 12 3/4 so 13 3/4 from block to height of deck im confident this is within right within a small range of accuracy This is measured to the paver I can move the paver and measure to the ground if I need to.. Again my tape measure sucks though I need to get a tool box also


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> sorry taking me a few trys just about have it my tape measure sucks any suggestion on a good brand? im learning fast its worth it to buy good tools


We always used these, often on sale and if you don't put them away wet, they last fine.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> 101 + 12 3/4" 101 is to the side 12 3/4 from block to height of deck im confident this is within right within a small range of accuracy. Again my tape measure sucks though I need to get a tool box also


Shoot I messed up Cause I measured from the lip on the stair because of a screw in the way I forgot to add in the height of the deck board


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We always used these, often on sale and if you don't put them away wet, they last fine.
> View attachment 692253


The one I have has the slightest twist near the hook makes it hard to get sometimes. I measured using the 3rd ridge of the siding which is completely level going down the side of the house was that a good way to do it?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Let me restart this somethings off cause I forgot to add in the length of the tape measure which is 3 3/8 inches that seems like a big difference from the measurements I made earlier So the Total is 101" + 3 3/8" + 12 3/4"+ 1"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

so 118.125" = 118 1/8"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The one I have has the slightest twist near the hook makes it hard to get sometimes. I measured using the 3rd ridge of the siding which is completely level going down the side of the house was that a good way to do it?


Yes.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes.


Not sure how I was so off earlier


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> so 118.125" = 118 1/8"


Give me a minute to figure this.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> so 118.125" = 118 1/8"


So this is the height if the bottom of the steps by the corner of the house?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So this is the height if the bottom of the steps by the corner of the house?


Yes sir, to the paver by the wall which is right by the corner of the house in this photo


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir, to the paver by the wall which is right by the corner of the house in this photo


I can get a photo really quickly and show you how I did this.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I can get a photo really quickly and show you how I did this.


I didnt account for the height of the level


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I didnt account for the height of the level


The level is 2 1/2"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The level is 2 1/2"


So now you are at 115 5/8?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So now you are at 115 5/8?


Here is how I measured missing one photo I will send over.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Here is how I measured missing one photo I will send over.


The horizontal black lines in each photo are the section of siding I checked to be level all the way down to the corner of the house.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So now you are at 115 5/8?


That is 115.625" correct I am converting on google now. Edit: yes 115 5/8"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> That is 115.625" correct I am converting on google now. Edit: yes 115 5/8"


Is your deck 36" wide?
How does this look.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is your deck 36" wide?
> How does this look.
> View attachment 692268


The deck from first board to outside board that lines up with outer posts it is 39 inches It looks really good I believe I understand. So, the concrete will be 24 inches parallel to the wall and 1 5/8" inch or so thick and then 3 feet coming out from the wall?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

I need to run to the store before it closes less then 30 minutes if it takes a second for me to get back


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The deck from first board to outside board that lines up with outer posts it is 39 inches It looks really good I believe I understand. So, the concrete will be 24 inches parallel to the wall and 1 5/8" inch or so thick and then 3 feet coming out from the wall?


The concrete will be 3 1/2" thick, 
2x4s 
36" x 2
24" x 1
27" x 1
4 stakes sharpened 
Dig down to level at 118" try not to disturb the dirt below that so you have solid base. 
Put it in place drive the stakes 
Raise it to 114 and screw it to the stakes level and square. 
After you have it in place and solid remove 24" and pour concrete.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The concrete will be 3 1/2" thick,
> 2x4s
> 36" x 2
> 24" x 1
> ...


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

Just a crazy idea I have. I probably would do the concrete (or paver) landing as a later or final activity. Because maybe some calculations might be off a bit. Pouring concrete is permanent. If you do it first and find out later it is in wrong place it is a big problem. I would cut stringers, attach them and then work on concrete. But really I might prefer pavers because they can be moved. The earth could be raised too if necessary to make the stairs meet code. Code says the tallest riser can not be more than 3/8" than the shortest riser.
3/8 inches is a very tight difficult tolerance to achieve considering all the stair parts. And the land is not even level. So I would make the observation, no one exactly knows the measurements. Except you can say 7" riser and 10 1/2" tread. Then cut the stringers. I think you decided to use 3 stringers. However there are companies that will professionally cut stringers with computer. Maybe you have to pick them up or maybe they will deliver. You can order from the web. The stringer company does not even have to be near you. But sometimes it feels better to talk to supplier face to face.


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

Just calculate how many treads you need. Then maybe order stringers with one or two extra treads. Once the stringers are on the job site you can determine if you need to cut the extra treads off. It is always easier to make it shorter. However, stretching stringers is very difficult and should be left to angels.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> Just a crazy idea I have. I probably would do the concrete (or paver) landing as a later or final activity. Because maybe some calculations might be off a bit. Pouring concrete is permanent. If you do it first and find out later it is in wrong place it is a big problem. I would cut stringers, attach them and then work on concrete. But really I might prefer pavers because they can be moved. The earth could be raised too if necessary to make the stairs meet code. Code says the tallest riser can not be more than 3/8" than the shortest riser.
> 3/8 inches is a very tight difficult tolerance to achieve considering all the stair parts. And the land is not even level. So I would make the observation, no one exactly knows the measurements. Except you can say 7" riser and 10 1/2" tread. Then cut the stringers. I think you decided to use 3 stringers. However there are companies that will professionally cut stringers with computer. Maybe you have to pick them up or maybe they will deliver. You can order from the web. The stringer company does not even have to be near you. But sometimes it feels better to talk to supplier face to face.


The calculations are done again after, and all risers are the same.


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

@Nealtw: Sorry. I don't understand your comment "done again after"
I am just saying you are not there doing the measurements so imo you cannot completely analyze the site. Of course you know each step has to be level according to code. Imo it is too risky to have both top of stairs (ledger) and bottom of stairs (landing) 'locked in' and then fit the middle with any luck. Just getting the measurements you requested was tedious and tenuous.
This is the way I would do to take precautions to not waste effort and material especially tearing out concrete. I believe this has to be fitted on site as challenges arise during the build. But just my opinion on how I would do it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> @Nealtw: Sorry. I don't understand your comment "done again after"
> I am just saying you are not there doing the measurements so imo you cannot completely analyze the site. Of course you know each step has to be level according to code. Imo it is too risky to have both top of stairs (ledger) and bottom of stairs (landing) 'locked in' and then fit the middle with any luck. Just getting the measurements you requested was tedious and tenuous.


So would you just pick a number and cut the stingers and then do the walk to match? What happens to the bottom and top if you miss by 1/8" on the riser, then the bottom or the top is out by 2"


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

I am saying the landing can be at any elevation I need it to be if I don't concrete it first. I would start at the top (ledger.)
Then the landing will be perfect (not out by 2") because the landing becomes my chosen variable and I can make it whatever height I need it to be to make it perfect especially when we are talking about exterior stairs that have no constraint. That's how I build. So far so good.


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

I like your drawing showing your angle compared to original angle. However they are so different. Makes me wonder if the original stairs were so badly designed or were the measurements you were given were incorrect. Just my thoughts.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> I am saying the landing can be at any elevation I need it to be if I don't concrete it first. I would start at the top (ledger.)
> Then the landing will be perfect (not out by 2") because the landing becomes my chosen variable and I can make it whatever height I need it to be to make it perfect especially when we are talking about exterior stairs that have no constraint. That's how I build. So far so good.


So you would be happy with the landing 2" below the dirt level.
Have you ever built stairs ? 
There is not a mistake he can make measuring that usually can't be fixed and usually with out wasting a stringer.


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

Your stairs were built without the typical 'saw tooth' riser. Not many illustrations of solid straight stringers like yours but I don't find any prohibition of them either. The straight stringers look good with this building. 
Your stairs are aestheticly appealing and part of that look is by going completely to the corner of the building. 
I agree with you that low risers are easier to use. There seems to only be a code maximum height of 7 3/4". But I didn't find any code minimum height so maybe anything less than 7 3/4" is fine.
So I would just duplicate the style and size you currently have. That way you have a ready-made pattern and that makes the project easier. 
When you asked about attaching to cinder block were you talking about the side against the wall?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The concrete will be 3 1/2" thick,
> 2x4s
> 36" x 2
> 24" x 1
> ...


Heading over to get the concrete soon Im going to message before I actually pour it though


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> Your stairs were built without the typical 'saw tooth' riser. Not many illustrations of solid straight stringers like yours but I don't find any prohibition of them either.
> Your stairs are aestheticly appealing and part of that look is by going completely to the corner of the building.
> I agree with you that low risers are easier to use. There seems to only be a code maximum height of 7 3/4". But I didn't find any code minimum height so maybe anything less than 7 3/4" is fine.
> So I would just duplicate the style and size you currently have. That way you have a ready-made pattern and that makes the project easier.
> When you asked about attaching to cinder block were you talking about the side against the wall?





LearningTrades said:


> Heading over to get the concrete soon Im going to message before I actually pour it though


Got back not long ago I got quickrete high strength concrete mix 2 bags which unless I calculated horrifically wrong should be more then enough. currently doing the frame might take me alittle to get it right. I will message again when its done. Just to clarify the brown portion of the last drawing you made up is the piece of wood in the ground that the deck sits on?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Got back not long ago I got quickrete high strength concrete mix 2 bags which unless I calculated horrifically wrong should be more then enough. currently doing the frame might take me alittle to get it right. I will message again when its done. Just to clarify the brown portion of the last drawing you made up is the piece of wood in the ground that the deck sits on?


The drawings is the 2x4s on edge forms for the concrete. 
Did you calculate and get 2 cubic feet? That does not equal 2 bags. 
Slab Pour | Sakrete


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The concrete will be 3 1/2" thick,
> 2x4s
> 36" x 2
> 24" x 1
> ...


I'm not needing to dig down much to get 118 does that seem right? I had it in my head I would need to dig more.
Edit: One last thing underneath has quite a bit of gravel instead of dirt


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I'm not needing to dig down much to get 118 does that seem right? I had it in my head I would need to dig more.
> Edit: One last thing underneath has quite a bit of gravel instead of dirt


gravel is a better base,dirt hold water and the slab can move more. 
How did you get to 2 bags?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> gravel is a better base,dirt hold water and the slab can move more.
> How did you get to 2 bags?


The square footage on the bag


Nealtw said:


> gravel is a better base,dirt hold water and the slab can move more.
> How did you get to 2 bags?


By misreading the bag I think I need 3 1/2 based on square footage and depth Luckily I can get the concrete at the lumber yard. Alot closer then I thought I needed to go. Im pretty level. I am debating buying a tamper because I am having a hard time getting it fully level with the gravel its generally good though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The square footage on the bag
> 
> By misreading the bag I think I need 3 1/2 based on square footage and depth Luckily I can get the concrete at the lumber yard. Alot closer then I thought I needed to go. Im pretty level. I am debating buying a tamper because I am having a hard time getting it fully level with the gravel its generally good though.


Is it 3 1/2" deep or a little more, a little rough is not a concern, buy extra bags and take back what you don't don't use. 
So the top of the forms will be level at 114" 
And the inside of the far end will be 161" from the deck?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is it 3 1/2" deep or a little more, a little rough is not a concern, buy extra bags and take back what you don't don't use.
> So the top of the forms will be level at 114"
> And the inside of the far end will be 161" from the deck?


Its closer to 2 inches deep at the deepest part mostly level Its 188 1/2 to the edge of that piece of wood in this photo.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its closer to 2 inches deep at the deepest part Its 188 1/2 to the edge of that piece of wood in this photo.


You are not paying attention. 
We are doing a landing for you new stairs not the old ones?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Its closer to 2 inches deep at the deepest part Its 188 1/2 to the edge of that piece of wood in this photo.
> [/Q





Nealtw said:


> You are not paying attention.
> We are doing a landing for you new stairs not the old ones?


Sorry I am misunderstanding. I dont understand how to get the hole and frame in the location it appears in drawing do I need to move the bottom stair pieces?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry I am misunderstanding. I dont understand how to get the hole and frame in the location it appears in drawing do I need to move the bottom stair pieces?


Leave your tape measure where you have it in the picture.
Walk back and find 161" and put something there to mark that and stand back and take a picture.

Did you look at this picture?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave your tape measure where you have it in the picture.
> Walk back and find 161" and put something there to mark that and stand back and take a picture.
> 
> Did you look at this picture?
> View attachment 692328


Yeah I just dont understand the framing under the stairs. Im probably just being stupid. The board at 161 is exactly where it is in your drawing.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave your tape measure where you have it in the picture.
> Walk back and find 161" and put something there to mark that and stand back and take a picture.
> 
> Did you look at this picture?
> View attachment 692328


Yeah I just honestly dont understand the stairs section. on the landing. I can move everything and it doesnt look like it would be hard to cut off their I have a decent jack that could put some support in that section until I demo


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah I just honestly dont understand the stairs section. on the landing. I can move everything and it doesnt look like it would be hard to cut off their I have a decent jack that could put some support in that section until I demo


I don't not have a chance to see what problems you have unless you show me, when you don't understand something or something will not work, your answer is to stop and get clarification or show me what the problem is.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I don't not have a chance to see what problems you have unless you show me, when you don't understand something or something will not work, your answer is to stop and get clarification or show me what the problem is.


Sorry sir


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry sir


We went over that the stringer will be cut close to 7" risers and 10" treads and you can put 11 inch treads on that. 
Yes?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We went over that the stringer will be cut close to 7" risers and 10" treads and you can put 11 inch treads on that.
> Yes?


Yeah, You said it was also best to do 2 2x6 boards instead of the one larger tread and that we might not end up with that clean 7 but around it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah, You said it was also best to do 2 2x6 boards instead of the one larger tread and that we might not end up with that clean 7 but around it


If we have the top of the landing at 114" below the deck boards on the deck 
we divide 114/ 16 riser = 7 1/8" risers. Yes?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If we have the top of the landing at 114" below the deck boards on the deck
> we divide 114/ 16 riser = 7 1/8" risers. Yes?


Yes sir


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir


That includes the deck so 15 treads correct?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> That includes the deck so 15 treads correct?


Yes 15 x 10" cut = 150 will be the end of the stringer. 
We would like to have one concrete step included in the landing so we add 11 or 12" inches to the front of that. 
If room is tight and you cant get that in there, you can just stop at 150 with a 12" landing and when built the new walk will include that first stop.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes 15 x 10" cut = 150 will be the end of the stringer.
> We would like to have one concrete step included in the landing so we add 11 or 12" inches to the front of that.
> If room is tight and you cant get that in there, you can just stop at 150 with a 12" landing and when built the new walk will include that first stop.


Im trying to figure out how to ask this question The little deck rail is at 150 am I framing to the left or right of it Im not sure why I am not understanding I thought I had it. I also discovered something under the pile of wood I need to move. A large stone I need to figure out how to break it or move it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im trying to figure out how to ask this question The little deck rail is at 150 am I framing to the left or right of it Im not sure why I am not understanding I thought I had it. I also discovered something under the pile of wood I need to move. A large stone I need to figure out how to break it or move it


so I looks like you would stop at 150 so the the concrete would start at 150 and go to the right to 138.
If the rock is to big to move maybe you could dig under it toward the deck and just roll it deeper out of the way.
Then we should judge the soil that will be under the landing concrete. We would like to be more like sandy or gravelly


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> so I looks like you would stop at 150 so the the concrete would start at 150 and go to the right to 138.
> If the rock is to big to move maybe you could dig under it toward the deck and just roll it deeper out of the way.
> Then we should judge the soil that will be under the landing concrete. We would like to be more like sandy or gravelly


I think i can move it with a lever how ever as always I found something else. A lip on the foundation of the house runs all the way down protruding about 5 1/2" and awesome I understand now thank you for taking the time to make it clear to me sorry


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think i can move it with a lever how ever as always I found something else. A lip on the foundation of the house runs all the way down protruding about 5 1/2" and awesome I understand now thank you for taking the time to make it clear to me sorry


That is the footing. Figure out how many inches is that lip from the top of the deck boards?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> so I looks like you would stop at 150 so the the concrete would start at 150 and go to the right to 138.
> If the rock is to big to move maybe you could dig under it toward the deck and just roll it deeper out of the way.
> Then we should judge the soil that will be under the landing concrete. We would like to be more like sandy or gravelly





Nealtw said:


> That is the footing. Figure out how many inches is that lip from the top of the deck boards?


Ok cool Ill do that after I get this boulder moved i can do it but i gotta be careful of my back lol


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> Your stairs were built without the typical 'saw tooth' riser. Not many illustrations of solid straight stringers like yours but I don't find any prohibition of them either. The straight stringers look good with this building.
> Your stairs are aestheticly appealing and part of that look is by going completely to the corner of the building.
> I agree with you that low risers are easier to use. There seems to only be a code maximum height of 7 3/4". But I didn't find any code minimum height so maybe anything less than 7 3/4" is fine.
> So I would just duplicate the style and size you currently have. That way you have a ready-made pattern and that makes the project easier.
> When you asked about attaching to cinder block were you talking about the side against the wall?


Minimum riser height is 4.0 " / Maximum riser height is 7.0" per IBC

*Riser Height and Tread Depth (IBC 1011.5)*
The step height, also known as the riser height, must be no less than 4 inches and no greater than 7 inches. The minimum tread depth is 11 inches. If the stairs have nosings, you measure from the leading edge of the nosing to the edge of the next step’s nosing.
*Uniform Dimensions (IBC 1011.5.4)*
IBC stairs must have the same riser and tread dimensions throughout the stairway. The difference between the largest and smallest tread depth or riser height cannot be more than 3/8 inch.


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## Elmer-Dallas Texas (9 mo ago)

IBC is good but the local code and inspector is what counts. He needs to inquire at city for what works for them.
IBC you quote says maximum rise is 7" but looks like they designed taller but I am a little lost now.
@learning wants low risers. I get that. Easier to walk up and down with low risers.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes 15 x 10" cut = 150 will be the end of the stringer.
> We would like to have one concrete step included in the landing so we add 11 or 12" inches to the front of that.
> If room is tight and you cant get that in there, you can just stop at 150 with a 12" landing and when built the new walk will include that first stop.





Nealtw said:


> That is the footing. Figure out how many inches is that lip from the top of the deck boards?


Ok so everything is completely cleared out and ready I think I can even get to 161 with it. However The footer of the house stops a few feet from the corner. So I don't really have a clear path to measure it. I dug down its not their lol


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is the footing. Figure out how many inches is that lip from the top of the deck boards?


Also the distance between the footer and the last post located at between 155-159" or so has 30" between its edge and the edge of the footer so I believer everything fits.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Thom Paine said:


> Minimum riser height is 4.0 " / Maximum riser height is 7.0" per IBC
> 
> *Riser Height and Tread Depth (IBC 1011.5)*
> The step height, also known as the riser height, must be no less than 4 inches and no greater than 7 inches. The minimum tread depth is 11 inches. If the stairs have nosings, you measure from the leading edge of the nosing to the edge of the next step’s nosing.
> ...


IBC 1011.5.2 requires that stair riser heights shall be 7 inches (178 mm) maximum and 4 inches (102 mm) minimum.

In group R-3 occupancies, within dwelling units in R-2 occupancies, and within group U occupancies that are accessory to group R-3 occupancies or accessory to individual dwelling units within R-2 occupancies, the maximum riser height shall be 7-3/4 inches.

The 7-3/4 inch maximum riser applies to most permanent residential occupancies with multiple dwelling units. 


IBC 1011.5.2 requires that stair treads be 11 inches (279mm) minimum measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the treads leading edge.

In group R-3 occupancies, within dwelling units in R-2 occupancies, and within group U occupancies that are accessory to group R-3 occupancies or accessory to individual dwelling units within R-2 occupancies, the minimum tread depth shall be 10 inches. 

The 10 inch minimum tread depth applies to most permanent residential occupancies with multiple dwelling units.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok so everything is completely cleared out and ready I think I can even get to 161 with it. However The footer of the house stops a few feet from the corner. So I don't really have a clear path to measure it. I dug down its not their lol


Measure up to the tread in the old stairs and go above and measure to the level line you were using. 
Only add the thickness of said tread once.


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> @Nealtw: Sorry. I don't understand your comment "done again after"
> I am just saying you are not there doing the measurements so imo you cannot completely analyze the site. Of course you know each step has to be level according to code. Imo it is too risky to have both top of stairs (ledger) and bottom of stairs (landing) 'locked in' and then fit the middle with any luck. Just getting the measurements you requested was tedious and tenuous.
> This is the way I would do to take precautions to not waste effort and material especially tearing out concrete. I believe this has to be fitted on site as challenges arise during the build. But just my opinion on how I would do it.




I don't know your history. I have 50+ years; Neal is doing fine teaching proper means an methods.
You may have much experience and your own successful variation of those methods that work for you because, sometimes, there is more than one way to skin a cat and you're concerned for the DIYer.  

The DIYer , @* LearningTrades *is stepping into a very different world of thought and process; His persistence is commendable*.

@Nealtw * is in the lead for Construction Instructor of The Year with his guidance;* He should have his own Youtube channel ! *


Great day to ya' Elmer !


·


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> @Nealtw: Sorry. I don't understand your comment "done again after"
> I am just saying you are not there doing the measurements so imo you cannot completely analyze the site. Of course you know each step has to be level according to code. Imo it is too risky to have both top of stairs (ledger) and bottom of stairs (landing) 'locked in' and then fit the middle with any luck. Just getting the measurements you requested was tedious and tenuous.
> This is the way I would do to take precautions to not waste effort and material especially tearing out concrete. I believe this has to be fitted on site as challenges arise during the build. But just my opinion on how I would do it.


Appreciate all of your responses. I am not going to confuse myself by trying to follow 2 separate plans. I still like seeing all of the info though I learn from all of it and the interactions between the people helping.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Thom Paine said:


> I don't know your history. I have 50+ years; Neal is doing fine teaching proper means an methods.
> You may have much experience and your own successful variation of those methods that work for you because, sometimes, there is more than one way to skin a cat and you're concerned for the DIYer.
> 
> The DIYer , @* LearningTrades *is stepping into a very different world of thought and process; His persistence is commendable*.
> ...


When he helped me build my deck platform, fix rot and brace damaged areas in the fall he was phenomenal the work looks great and is absolutely solid 6-7 months later as it should be =). I also suggested that he do a youtube channel back then and have made some attempt to show my appreciation is some form besides a thank you you cant imagine how much this helped type of phrase to him.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Thom Paine said:


> Minimum riser height is 4.0 " / Maximum riser height is 7.0" per IBC
> 
> *Riser Height and Tread Depth (IBC 1011.5)*
> The step height, also known as the riser height, must be no less than 4 inches and no greater than 7 inches. The minimum tread depth is 11 inches. If the stairs have nosings, you measure from the leading edge of the nosing to the edge of the next step’s nosing.
> ...


Thanks for the persistence comment though means alot lol tbh. I am really trying and I hate that sometimes I cant follow certain things and need to be led in circles. This community is actually changing my life though. I gained huge confidence when I finished the platform I talked about in the last post.


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

Nealtw said:


> IBC 1011.5.2 requires that stair riser heights shall be 7 inches (178 mm) maximum and 4 inches (102 mm) minimum.
> 
> In group R-3 occupancies, within dwelling units in R-2 occupancies, and within group U occupancies that are accessory to group R-3 occupancies or accessory to individual dwelling units within R-2 occupancies, the maximum riser height shall be 7-3/4 inches.
> 
> ...


 laughin' at m'self... OOPS ! shoulda' paid closer attention to the project..... Actually forgot the OP mentioned that.

That's gonna' get you that award ! You quickly caught that.... 

A thousand mea culpas. 

I'll take my leave and return to admire the finished product.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Elmer-Dallas Texas said:


> IBC is good but the local code and inspector is what counts. He needs to inquire at city for what works for them.
> IBC you quote says maximum rise is 7" but looks like they designed taller but I am a little lost now.
> @learning wants low risers. I get that. Easier to walk up and down with low risers.


I'm going to be very happy with how this turns out when I am successful in this with a huge feeling of success and reward. I wont be picky in the slightest about a plan I am very happy with. I truly appreciate the time every single person here and in this community takes to help people like me though and each other. I actually hadn't even noticed the riser was short until Somebody in this post mentioned it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure up to the tread in the old stairs and go above and measure to the level line you were using.
> Only add the thickness of said tread once.


Duh haha shoulda figured that one


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure up to the tread in the old stairs and go above and measure to the level line you were using.
> Only add the thickness of said tread once.


I ended up with 117.85 to the footer I measured from the 3rd tread


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Thom Paine said:


> laughin' at m'self... OOPS ! shoulda' paid closer attention to the project..... Actually forgot the OP mentioned that.
> 
> That's gonna' get you that award ! You quickly caught that....
> 
> ...


I enjoy watching you guys go back and forth haha and have learned from it I dont mind =0


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I ended up with 117.85 to the footer I measured from the 3rd tread


That works, How level is the dirt to that and what kind of dirt do you have?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That works, How level is the dirt to that and what kind of dirt do you have?


its loose dark dirt with mostly gravel Not sure exactly what you mean the area is fairly level though I can probably even out


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> its loose dark dirt with mostly gravel Not sure exactly what you mean


Dirt that you might grow plants in will hold more water and be more likey to move with frost and or just water. 
We don't attach the stringer to the house so some movement can happen with out hurting the stairs. 
But we don't want a foot of top soil under the concrete.
Does that help?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Dirt that you might grow plants in will hold more water and be more likey to move with frost and or just water.
> We don't attach the stringer to the house so some movement can happen with out hurting the stairs.
> But we don't want a foot of top soil under the concrete.
> Does that help?


Should I put gravel in?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Should I put gravel in?


I don't know, what have you got. Is it top soil, is it level with the lip now? If it is top soil how deep is it?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Should I put gravel in?


already


Nealtw said:


> I don't know, what have you got. Is it top soil, is it level with the lip now? If it is top soil how deep is it?


It is topsoil and gravel mixed mostly top soil it is slightly below the lip. I can dig down to see how deep it is


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> already
> 
> It is topsoil and gravel mixed mostly top soil it is slightly below the lip. I can dig down to see how deep it is


Its pretty solid mostly gravel after the surface


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its pretty solid mostly gravel after the surface


I would scrape the surface off and replace it with gravel


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would scrape the surface off and replace it with gravel


Ok that sounds good I will try and get it now


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok that sounds good I will try and get it now


Are you doing the 24" pad starting at 161?
It will be hard to drive stakes in the ground under there? If yes there is another way?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Are you doing the 24" pad starting at 161?
> It will be hard to drive stakes in the ground under there? If yes there is another way?


I wanted to do the full 24" pad could i take off the bottom step? that would give me access.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I wanted to do the full 24" pad could i take off the bottom step? that would give me access.


You mean remove the lower treads on the old stairs. yes. 
The way I have it figured if the top of the form is at 114, the bottom of the 2x4 will be about 1/4" above that lip.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You mean remove the lower treads on the old stairs. yes.
> The way I have it figured if the top of the form is at 114, the bottom of the 2x4 will be about 1/4" above that lip.


Yeah, that is what i meant.


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

LearningTrades said:


> I enjoy watching you guys go back and forth haha and have learned from it I dont mind =0


You have a great attitude for learning... Neal just pointed out that
I Referenced the wrong applicable code....

I'd fire me for doing that ! 

My infallibility is now in question.  

Hang in there; you're doing great!


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Thom Paine said:


> You have a great attitude for learning... Neal just pointed out that
> I Referenced the wrong applicable code....
> 
> I'd fire me for doing that !
> ...


Really appreciate that and haha that could be a blunder =o


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Thom Paine said:


> You have a great attitude for learning... Neal just pointed out that
> I Referenced the wrong applicable code....
> 
> I'd fire me for doing that !
> ...


We got caught on that 7" rule for commercial the hard way, just a few weeks after it came into effect. 
We knew not about the change and he had plans approved the year before and we built to those plan, oops. 
We had to rebuild the stairs move the landing at the top and move the office doors up stairs and down to match the landing and move window up and down to make room for doors. All kinds of fun.


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

Nealtw said:


> We got caught on that 7" rule for commercial the hard way, just a few weeks after it came into effect.
> We knew not about the change and he had plans approved the year before and we built to those plan, oops.
> We had to rebuild the stairs move the landing at the top and move the office doors up stairs and down to match the landing and move window up and down to make room for doors. All kinds of fun.


Bet that had an hour or two of discussion when the approved plans became "unapproved plans".

Yeahhhhh, I s'pect we've all had those "How'd that get by us?" days ..


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## Rodochan (Aug 22, 2020)

I built my own stairs, with some help from here, but I’d say you need to read and understand the vocabulary of everything “stairs” before you start building. Yeah, I had no idea what a stringer was when I started either.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Rodochan said:


> I built my own stairs, with some help from here, but I’d say you need to read and understand the vocabulary of everything “stairs” before you start building. Yeah, I had no idea what a stringer was when I started either.
> View attachment 692396


They look great im coming along learning these terms. Much better then when I first started haha. Always gotta do so much googling when i start posting though


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We got caught on that 7" rule for commercial the hard way, just a few weeks after it came into effect.
> We knew not about the change and he had plans approved the year before and we built to those plan, oops.
> We had to rebuild the stairs move the landing at the top and move the office doors up stairs and down to match the landing and move window up and down to make room for doors. All kinds of fun.


Going to be raining most of the day not sure what I will manage to get done


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We got caught on that 7" rule for commercial the hard way, just a few weeks after it came into effect.
> We knew not about the change and he had plans approved the year before and we built to those plan, oops.
> We had to rebuild the stairs move the landing at the top and move the office doors up stairs and down to match the landing and move window up and down to make room for doors. All kinds of fun.


Excited to get back at it tomorrow. Today was not wasted though. Removed and replaced my faucet looks great =D haha. Im really starting to enjoy this stuff.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We got caught on that 7" rule for commercial the hard way, just a few weeks after it came into effect.
> We knew not about the change and he had plans approved the year before and we built to those plan, oops.
> We had to rebuild the stairs move the landing at the top and move the office doors up stairs and down to match the landing and move window up and down to make room for doors. All kinds of fun.


Getting started really soon I will let you know when I am done digging framing and putting the gravel in. Much appreciated.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The concrete will be 3 1/2" thick,
> 2x4s
> 36" x 2
> 24" x 1
> ...


I was digging down and thought to measure again. the distance between the footer and my far post is only 30 inches it is 5 1/2 wide. I cant get the fully 36 without framing over the footer.
Edit :The full 36 runs flush with the post measured to the wall so I would also need to frame flush with the post if that makes sense.
Edit 2: can I pour concrete over the footer? it is not completely level in some spots though.
Edit 3: I also did not really think until now that not all stairs attach to walls haha. Would it be better to build stairs that do not anchor to the wall? I will be careful drilling the cinderblock if I need to but I hadnt even thought that I might not need to. If any of that makes sense sorry for complications as always.
Edit 4: I might just be confusing myself after a day off and other distractions.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I was digging down and thought to measure again. the distance between the footer and my far post is only 30 inches it is 5 1/2 wide. I cant get the fully 36 without framing over the footer.
> Edit :The full 36 runs flush with the post measured to the wall so I would also need to frame flush with the post if that makes sense.
> Edit 2: can I pour concrete over the footer? it is not completely level in some spots though.


You gave measurement that would work, were they wrong?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You gave measurement that would work, were they wrong?
> View attachment 692539


Ok cool no they work if i use the edge of the post as part of the frame I just wasn't sure i could build over the footer lol sorry. Its ok that the footer isnt level though? My drawing sucks i just mean that the post will be part of the frame and the wall will be part of the frame i think was that how you meant it to be? I didnt think to ask until i was down under the desk i apologize.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok cool no they work if i use the edge of the post as part of the frame I just wasn't sure i could build over the footer lol sorry. Its ok that the footer isnt level though? My drawing sucks i just mean that the post will be part of the frame and the wall will be part of the frame i think was that how you meant it to be? I didnt think to ask until i was down under the desk i apologize.


Your form will be level on top it can be 1" or 1 1'2" off the ground below, that is not a problem. 
I think I know the post you speak of. how far is it from the deck, will it be in the concrete?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok cool no they work if i use the edge of the post as part of the frame I just wasn't sure i could build over the footer lol sorry. Its ok that the footer isnt level though? My drawing sucks i just mean that the post will be part of the frame and the wall will be part of the frame i think was that how you meant it to be? I didnt think to ask until i was down under the desk i apologize.





Nealtw said:


> You gave measurement that would work, were they wrong?
> View attachment 692539


The top of the footer measures 114 inches from the top of the deckin i must have messed up somewhere Im really sorry. its not level but it doesnt fluctuate more the 1/4 or so


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Your form will be level on top it can be 1" or 1 1'2" off the ground below, that is not a problem.
> I think I know the post you speak of. how far is it from the deck, will it be in the concrete?


The post of the deck runs exactly 36 inches from the wall so I could build the frame on either side of it and just have it be part of the frame. Only one edge would be touching the concrete if I poor that way. can i notch the 2x4 to bring the frame down to where it needs to be on the footer? As of now if I sit a 2x4 on top of the footer the top end would only be 110.5"from the top of the deck


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> The post of the deck runs exactly 36 inches from the wall so I could build the frame on either side of it and just have it be part of the frame. Only one edge would be touching the concrete if I poor that way. can i notch the 2x4 to bring the frame down to where it needs to be on the footer? As of now if I sit a 2x4 on top of the footer the top end would only be 110.5"from the top of the deck


the footer seems to be between 114"-14.25" from the top of the deck depending on how lumpy it is were I measure.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The post of the deck runs exactly 36 inches from the wall so I could build the frame on either side of it and just have it be part of the frame. Only one edge would be touching the concrete if I poor that way. can i notch the 2x4 to bring the frame down to where it needs to be on the footer? As of now if I sit a 2x4 on top of the footer the top end would only be 110.5"from the top of the deck





LearningTrades said:


> the footer seems to be between 114"-14.25" from the top of the deck depending on how lumpy it is were I measure.


Using the post as part of the form is fine. 
Just do the form at level with the lowest part of the footer. At the 114 1/4.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Using the post as part of the form is fine.
> Just do the form at level with the lowest part of the footer. At the 114 1/4.


Awesome thank you and then the footer will be part of the landing area? Is it ok as part of the landing if its pretty rough in some areas? I think the area where the stringer base might sit is flat though mostly.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome thank you and then the footer will be part of the landing area? Is it ok as part of the landing if its pretty rough in some areas? I think the area where the stringer base might sit is flat though mostly.


We will move the stringer out so it lands on the new pad. Not a problem The treads will still go over to close to the wall.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Using the post as part of the form is fine.
> Just do the form at level with the lowest part of the footer. At the 114 1/4.


So I am pretty much down where I need to be but ran into 2 issues. A secondary lip on the footer and the concrete around the post. The secondary lip is sitting right at about 3 1/2" but is not perfect. Im not sure what to do about the post concrete. Sorry I know I am pretty much a non stop problem =/


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We will move the stringer out so it lands on the new pad. Not a problem The treads will still go over to close to the wall.


Ok cool. I would actually prefer not to anchor the new steps to the cinder block as it is right now.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So I am pretty much down where I need to be but ran into 2 issues. A secondary lip on the footer and the concrete around the post. The secondary lip is sitting right at about 3 1/2" but is not perfect. Im not sure what to do about the post concrete. Sorry I know I am pretty much a non stop problem =/


Just notch the bottom of the 2x4 so it clears the bottom ledge of the footer. 
What is the height of the concrete around the post? Close to 114 or?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just notch the bottom of the 2x4 so it clears the bottom ledge of the footer.
> What is the height of the concrete around the post? Close to 114 or?





Nealtw said:


> Just notch the bottom of the 2x4 so it clears the bottom ledge of the footer.
> What is the height of the concrete around the post? Close to 114 or?





Nealtw said:


> Just notch the bottom of the 2x4 so it clears the bottom ledge of the footer.
> What is the height of the concrete around the post? Close to 114 or?


The highest point of the post concrete is about 2" above the footer so right around 112" i believe most of it is lower though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The highest point of the post concrete is about 2" above the footer so right around 112" i believe most of it is lower though


Then I would stop at arounbd the 150 mark and leave that to sidewalk work later.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then I would stop at arounbd the 150 mark and leave that to sidewalk work later.


Sounds good I will do that. Can i go slightly past 150 if I have room? Just would give me a larger slab for error. Haha 
Edit: no room for it actually


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds good I will do that. Can i go slightly past 150 if I have room? Just would give me a larger slab for error. Haha
> Edit: no room for it actually


What ever works.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> What ever works.


Just need to go get a 2x4 to cut quickly thought I had some.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The concrete will be 3 1/2" thick,
> 2x4s
> 36" x 2
> 24" x 1
> ...


Im probably being dumb but If i am going even with the height of the footer then I will need to cut 30.5" instead of 36"? I know its a dumb question i just want to be sure


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im probably being dumb but If i am going even with the height of the footer then I will need to cut 30.5" instead of 36"? I know its a dumb question i just want to be sure


yes.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> yes.


Thank you Ill try not to ask to many more dumb questions I cant be comfortable taking action sometimes if I do not clarify though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you Ill try not to ask to many more dumb questions I cant be comfortable taking action sometimes if I do not clarify though.


a couple of things,
1.Should the 2x4 be 100% flush against the footer? the 2x4s actually fit almost perfectly with the ledge.
2. Should there be any gaps under the boards? They are mostly level still working some but having trouble getting all parts flush with the gravel. No big gaps though.
3. new question. Can i build the frame before i put it in the ground lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> a couple of things,
> 1.Should the 2x4 be 100% flush against the footer? the 2x4s actually fit almost perfectly with the ledge.
> 2. Should there be any gaps under the boards? They are mostly level still working some but having trouble getting all parts flush with the gravel. No big gaps though.
> 3. new question. Can i build the frame before i put it in the ground lol


The forms want to be level, ignore anything around it. 
gaps under the forms up to 1 1/2" or 2" are fine.
Yes you can build it first and put it in place.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The forms want to be level, ignore anything around it.
> gaps under the forms up to 1 1/2" or 2" are fine.
> Yes you can build it first and put it in place.


Excellent I am stopping for tonight to respect all of my elderly neighbors, but I will get this done tomorrow! I really appreciate everything truly. I would truly like to send you a goldbelly card or something. Or some meat, whiskey, etc something.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Didn’t read the whole thing, just as far as risers differing by an inch. Where I am I get a max of 3/8” shortest riser to tallest riser.


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## Thom Paine (Nov 24, 2021)

LearningTrades said:


> Excellent I am stopping for tonight to respect all of my elderly neighbors, but I will get this done tomorrow! I really appreciate everything truly. I would truly like to send you a goldbelly card or something. Or some meat, whiskey, etc something.



You're great student listening to a great teacher......

You're doing fine, LT, you're doing fine.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The forms want to be level, ignore anything around it.
> gaps under the forms up to 1 1/2" or 2" are fine.
> Yes you can build it first and put it in place.


Bout to put it in just a slight bit more leveling and screwin the frame together. I am semi worried tonight in the mountains it could potentially get down to 33 but sometimes pushes it further. I have read that concrete shouldnt hit freezing in the first 24 hours of drying. Will it be ok it might not even touch freezing but it will get close.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Bout to put it in just a slight bit more leveling and screwin the frame together. I am semi worried tonight in the mountains it could potentially get down to 33 but sometimes pushes it further. I have read that concrete shouldnt hit freezing in the first 24 hours of drying. Will it be ok it might not even touch freezing but it will get close.


Yeah that not great. You can insulate it but the exact rules, I am not sure.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yeah that not great. You can insulate it but the exact rules, I am not sure.


Looks like I have 2 nights getting into freezing would it be better to wait? I can go see what I can get for insulation It should only be around 32-33 for a couple of hours before it warms up again. I need to run to lowes anyway to I can see. How long does the concrete take to cure before it can be built on just curious I have seen quite a range when I google.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Looks like I have 2 nights getting into freezing would it be better to wait? I can go see what I can get for insulation It should only be around 32-33 for a couple of hours before it warms up again. I need to run to lowes anyway to I can see. How long does the concrete take to cure before it can be built on just curious I have seen quite a range when I google.


For what you hare doing a couple days, we are not adding a lot of weight to it, in basements we go in to frame it the next day when you can drive nails in it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> For what you hare doing a couple days, we are not adding a lot of weight to it, in basements we go in to frame it the next day when you can drive nails in it.


Very cool. If I go in early tomorrow morning like 6-7 It should have about 22 hours of weather above freezing do you think that would be enough? It looks like it wont get to freezing tonight but almost. I have an area heater I could put near it and i will look up how to insulate. I really want to get this in today


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The tool rental places rent a blanket for when we do foundations. Concrete makes it's own heat so it is just keeping that in the first night I think. Maybe just a foam board


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The tool rental places rent a blanket for when we do foundations. Concrete makes it's own heat so it is just keeping that in the first night I think. Maybe just a foam board


Ok cool Could i put a space heater on it? or near it I mean its outside so only so much but i could hang a tarp try and keep some in. Really appreciate it as always


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok cool Could i put a space heater on it? or near it I mean its outside so only so much but i could hang a tarp try and keep some in. Really appreciate it as always


That would likely work but don't confuse me with any kind of expert on concrete.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That would likely work but don't confuse me with any kind of expert on concrete.


I feel like the small area will be good im pretty limited to what I can rent out here.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I feel like the small area will be good im pretty limited to what I can rent out here.


Keep in mind that this is not something fancy, just a lump of concrete to keep the wood out of the dirt.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Keep in mind that this is not something fancy, just a lump of concrete to keep the wood out of the dirt.


very true haha


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Keep in mind that this is not something fancy, just a lump of concrete to keep the wood out of the dirt.


I was advised not to pour the concrete tonight. Frame is ready hole is ready everything is pretty much level a few minor adjustments. I am have a hard to getting tthe stakes i made to drive though. Any suggestion on that? Im going to watch some videos tonight. I usually do to try and help figure out some of what you tell me.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I was advised not to pour the concrete tonight. Frame is ready hole is ready everything is pretty much level a few minor adjustments. I am have a hard to getting tthe stakes i made to drive though. Any suggestion on that? Im going to watch some videos tonight. I usually do to try and help figure out some of what you tell me.


Yes frame down from the old stair stringer on both sides of the frame up and level 
and a longer one tied to both and stringer to keep it in place. 
Do that on both ends.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes frame down from the old stair stringer on both sides of the frame up and level
> and a longer one tied to both and stringer to keep it in place.
> Do that on both ends.
> View attachment 692672


Sweet much appreciated.


Nealtw said:


> Yes frame down from the old stair stringer on both sides of the frame up and level
> and a longer one tied to both and stringer to keep it in place.
> Do that on both ends.
> View attachment 692672


so i have my frame fully in and 99.8% level its just brushing the black line at a couple of angles I have pictures of everything in


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sweet much appreciated.
> 
> so i have my frame fully in and 99.8% level its just brushing the black line at a couple of angles I have pictures of everything in


Build the frame at the other end too. and screw and level the form to the up rights,


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Build the frame at the other end too. and screw and level the form to the up rights,
> View attachment 692768


I cant get the wood all the way to the 2nd stringer because of how the lip and footer meet


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I cant get the wood all the way to the 2nd stringer because of how the lip and footer meet


Add a 2x4 across the bottom of the stringers.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Add a 2x4 across the bottom of the stringers.
> View attachment 692770


Sorry I just saw this I extended it out. I think im all set to go


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry I just saw this I extended it out. I think im all set to go


And now you are level?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> And now you are level?


Yes sir 100% level


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir 100% level


You just keep going until it will do what you need it to do. The next time you want to do something like this, you will have little problem figuring it out.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You just keep going until it will do what you need it to do. The next time you want to do something like this, you will have little problem figuring it out.


I have no doubt about that really learned alot. So i am all set to mix up and get the concrete in right to the level of the wood? I can watch some videos before I actually pour it just about leveling it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have no doubt about that really learned alot. So i am all set to mix up and get the concrete in right to the level of the wood? I can watch some videos before I actually pour it just about leveling it


Go to about 350 in this video and see how he screeds it with a 2x4. 
Pour A Concrete Slab - YouTube


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Go to about 350 in this video and see how he screeds it with a 2x4.
> Pour A Concrete Slab - YouTube


Awesome I believe I am all set getting started now thank you


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> For what you hare doing a couple days, we are not adding a lot of weight to it, in basements we go in to frame it the next day when you can drive nails in it.


So i just finished does this look ok? its not perfect but the more i messed with it the worse it got any suggestions?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome I believe I am all set getting started now thank you
> [/QUOTE
> i think i added to much water maybe


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So i just finished does this look ok? its not perfect but the more i messed with it the worse it got any suggestions?


Gently tap the sides, that vibrates it and lets the air out .
It look good enough for the girls I date. There would be more to it if it was sidewalk or something but that should good for what we are doing. If you want trowel it smooth I think you wait for the water to be gone off the top. But you can check google for that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Gently tap the sides, that vibrates it and lets the air out .
> It look good enough for the girls I date. There would be more to it if it was sidewalk or something but that should good for what we are doing. If you want trowel it smooth I think you wait for the water to be gone off the top. But you can check google for that.


awesome thank you. Haha funny description really truly appreciate it have a good night


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> awesome thank you. Haha funny description really truly appreciate it have a good night


Leave that form wood there for a few days, it would be easy to chip the edges the next day after pouring it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave that form wood there for a few days, it would be easy to chip the edges the next day after pouring it.


Im reading about water curing right now it seems worth it. Do you know if it would be started before or after troweling? Its drying on the surface at a reasonable rate


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im reading about water curing right now it seems worth it. Do you know if it would be started before or after troweling? Its drying on the surface at a reasonable rate


You don't have to water cure, that is for really hot weather.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't have to water cure, that is for really hot weather.


Cool Less to worry about


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't have to water cure, that is for really hot weather.


I thought it was ok to start trowling so i went in to start trying and some pieces kind of moved some idk if i waited to long or not long enough but i am semi worried especially about the corner by the footer


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I thought it was ok to start trowling so i went in to start trying and some pieces kind of moved some idk if i waited to long or not long enough but i am semi worried especially about the corner by the footer


Just get it reasonable flat and leave it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just get it reasonable flat and leave it.


will do


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> will do


How bad are the old stairs, do you want to reclaim some of that wood in the new? 
Do you have other access if this is not done in a day, I don't expect it to be done in a day.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How bad are the old stairs, do you want to reclaim some of that wood in the new?
> Do you have other access if this is not done in a day, I don't expect it to be done in a day.


I was planning to get in and out with a ladder but honestly i could also sleep in the garage or get a motel room if i really needed to.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How bad are the old stairs, do you want to reclaim some of that wood in the new?
> Do you have other access if this is not done in a day, I don't expect it to be done in a day.


The actual treads are ok but honestly starting to warp because of no support in the middle. Everything else is pretty bad. I kind of want to go all new it will be easier to apply protection from the sun if they are all new I think. Woods gone up so much though even since the fall pretty crazy.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The actual treads are ok but honestly starting to warp because of no support in the middle. Everything else is pretty bad. I kind of want to go all new it will be easier to apply protection from the sun if they are all new I think. Woods gone up so much though even since the fall pretty crazy.


Same kind of pickets and rails, are they trash too?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Same kind of pickets and rails, are they trash too?


Yeah, unfortunately its all pretty bad. It gets so much sun and weather in this spot


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah, unfortunately its all pretty bad. It gets so much sun and weather in this spot


Its not looking phenomenal but im hoping its functional atleast 
Edit: pretty confident that i put to much water in the mix then troweling to early then to late. Ill send a photo soon.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Same kind of pickets and rails, are they trash too?


Worried enough that my mind is saying I should remove it and repour idk. My neighbor said it look good enough though. I always over worry about things lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Good enough.
I guess you will be looking for a shopping list.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good enough.
> I guess you will be looking for a shopping list.


Yes sir Im ready for that haha


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir Im ready for that haha


Can you get a picture of the joist at the edge of the deck where the stairs will go, from below, Is that just a 2x6?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Gently tap the sides, that vibrates it and lets the air out .
> It look good enough for the girls I date. There would be more to it if it was sidewalk or something but that should good for what we are doing. If you want trowel it smooth I think you wait for the water to be gone off the top. But you can check google for that.


Im glad


Nealtw said:


> Can you get a picture of the joist at the edge of the deck where the stairs will go, from below, Is that just a 2x6?


It is a 2x6 you had me attach it this way so that it would be easy to disconnect the stairs I think


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

This 2x4 will give us trouble, did we make that permanent or was it just a construction aid?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This 2x4 will give us trouble, did we make that permanent or was it just a construction aid?
> View attachment 692847


It was to help hold everything 2x6 trimmed


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> It was to help hold everything 2x6 trimmed


Are the deck pickets attached to the rim joist above that one?
Take picture from the side so I can see the pickets.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Are the deck pickets attached to the rim joist above that one?


I havent attached new pickets yet because the railings need to be replaced


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I havent attached new pickets yet because the railings need to be replaced


Okay I would like to add the the rim Lake a 2x6 to match the rim nailed or screwed to it or if it would look better a 2x8 up flush with the deck boards. 
That one below can be removed if we add hangers on the joists. 
This type of hanger. 









Will that be doable?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Are the deck pickets attached to the rim joist above that one?
> Take picture from the side so I can see the pickets.


heres the photos though


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay I would like to add the the rim Lake a 2x6 to match the rim nailed or screwed to it or if it would look better a 2x8 up flush with the deck boards.
> That one below can be removed if we add hangers on the joists.
> This type of hanger.
> View attachment 692849
> ...


Yeah I can do that no problem and a 2x8 is good if that is better


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah I can do that no problem and a 2x8 is good if that is better


Is The rim supported good now, is it notched in or in hangers?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay I would like to add the the rim Lake a 2x6 to match the rim nailed or screwed to it or if it would look better a 2x8 up flush with the deck boards.
> That one below can be removed if we add hangers on the joists.
> This type of hanger.
> View attachment 692849
> ...


I am going to need to run to lowes to get those hangers though the local builder supply/lumber yard doesnt have them usually. Going to check Ill let you know if its going to be a couple of hours to the store


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah I can do that no problem and a 2x8 is good if that is better


Just to make it look better if needed.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I am going to need to run to lowes to get those hangers though the local builder supply/lumber yard doesnt have them usually. Going to check Ill let you know if its going to be a couple of hours to the store


No rush, We can just add to the shopping list I just trying to figure everything we need. 
Do you want to include the railing stuff in the order or build the stairs first and figure it out. Or include enough for the deck railing too?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is The rim supported good now, is it notched in or in hangers?


Its screwed to the joists right now 3 screws each I believe. I have hangers but they are the smaller ones and I only have 2. No hangers on the joists on the rim side only hangers on the ledger side. I dont remember any notching either


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its screwed to the joists right now 3 screws each I believe. I have hangers but they are the smaller ones and I only have 2. No hangers on the joists on the rim side only hangers on the ledger side. I dont remember any notching either


If the rim is not supported, we talked about a 2x6 to straighten the posts, that can be done to support the rim and we can do the same on both posts if needed.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Is this the rim, notched in?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If the rim is not supported, we talked about a 2x6 to straighten the posts, that can be done to support the rim and we can do the same on both posts if needed.


So im taking off that 2x6 running 2x6 all the way up both posts to the bottom of the rim joist and then I am adding hangers to each connecting joist at the Rim? Just wanted to clarify the whole plan.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is this the rim, notched in?
> View attachment 692858


I was going to notch them but I messed the cut up that is just a 2x4 repair The rim joist is attached with hangers and support by that beam running beneath the joists.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I was going to notch them but I messed the cut up that is just a 2x4 repair The rim joist is attached with hangers and support by that beam running beneath the joists.


So the rim has hangers to the posts, and if we double it with a 2x6 or 2x8 and add hangers to the joist the one below them is not needed? That works for me.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So im taking off that 2x6 running 2x6 all the way up both posts to the bottom of the rim joist and then I am adding hangers to each connecting joist at the Rim? Just wanted to clarify the whole plan.


If the rim is in hangers, we are good. If or when you add the 2x6 to the bent one tight up under the rim would not hurt.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So the rim has hangers to the posts, and if we double it with a 2x6 or 2x8 and add hangers to the joist the one below them is not needed? That works for me.


Awesome, thank you sir im going to check the lumber supply for hangers now Its likely that it will be a couple hours to go to lowes and get back though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome, thank you sir im going to check the lumber supply for hangers now Its likely that it will be a couple hours to go to lowes and get back though.


Can you transport 16 ft lumber or will you be having it delivered, do you have saw horses to work on?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Can you transport 16 ft lumber or will you be having it delivered, do you have saw horses to work on?


I have 2 saw horses I was going to grab another one and some extra clamps. I should beable to manage the 16 foot lumber it will hang out some but bungee cords and im like .25 miles from the lumber yard.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Can you transport 16 ft lumber or will you be having it delivered, do you have saw horses to work on?


I saw one guy using a stabilizing guide attached to his circular saw to make these cuts. Im not sure what it is called. Is that worth getting for this?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I saw one guy using a stabilizing guide attached to his circular saw to make these cuts. Im not sure what it is called. Is that worth getting for this?


Not sure what that is, usually just using time and care is all that is needed. And following instructions.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not sure what that is, usually just using time and care is all that is needed. And following instructions.


I will let you know when im back service gets to bad to use the internet until im home


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I saw one guy using a stabilizing guide attached to his circular saw to make these cuts. Im not sure what it is called. Is that worth getting for this?





Nealtw said:


> Not sure what that is, usually just using time and care is all that is needed. And following instructions.


Id rather learn to do it by hand honestly as well. Is their any prep work I can today when I get back might be late to start sawing and nailing/screwing everything by the time im back and ready.
Edit: I can get most things at the builder supply and lumber yard they just have a poor selection on hangers for some reason. At lowes Ill be getting hangers saw horse and hanging/framing nails hard to find also for some reason.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Id rather learn to do it by hand honestly as well. Is their any prep work I can today when I get back might be late to start sawing and nailing/screwing everything by the time im back and ready.


I will work up list of lumber. 
We will need that to double check your level to do the final math on the stairs. 
If you have time you can work on the rim, you can remove that lower 2x before you do hangers but i would not leave it.
Remove the board when you are ready to add the hangers so it is not left dangerous to walk on.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I will work up list of lumber.
> We will need that to double check your level to do the final math on the stairs.
> If you have time you can work on the rim, you can remove that lower 2x before you do hangers but i would not leave it.
> Remove the board when you are ready to add the hangers so it is not left dangerous to walk on.


Thank you


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

3 , 2x12s 16 ft long. for stringers. 
8 , 2x6s 12 ft long for treads. 
3 , 2x4s for odds and ends that might be needed 
Plus what you need for the deck as we have discussed . 

All timber like 2x12s have a crown they bend up in the middle.
If you hold it up right and look along the top you can see it. 
We want 3 with out a huge crown and we want 3 that are about the same crown. 









Timbers often have cracks on the end, we always have it ordered and don't get to pick our lumber so we just would order 18s. so check the ends and try to get some with out cracks on the end. 

Tools you will need, 
A decent blade in the circ saw. 
A 2 ft construction square. 
Sharp pencils 
2 small clamps of some sort to clamp a 2x4 to the 2 ft square. 
A hand saw to finish the cuts for the inside corners on the stringers. 
10 pounds of 3" deck screws.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Thank you that really helps Only part that confuses me is which pieces of lumber you mean for this I need x3 2x12 with a crown and x3 without a crown You know what Im reading it like a dumbo and see that its I need x3 2x12 with a small crown that is basically the same. Sorry lol.?. all timber like 2x12s have a crown they bend up in the middle.
If you hold it up right and look along the top you can see it.
We want 3 with out a huge crown and we want 3 that are about the same.

On a side note the lumber yard is closed until monday I forgot it was Saturday. I cant drive The big pieces the 40 minutes from Lowes safely I dont think. Im going to get everything and do the prep work i can move the lower stairs and get the final measurements I believe.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you that really helps Only part that confuses me is which pieces of lumber you mean for this I need x3 2x12 with a crown and x3 without a crown You know what Im reading it like a dumbo and see that its I need x3 2x12 with a small crown that is basically the same. Sorry lol.?. all timber like 2x12s have a crown they bend up in the middle.
> If you hold it up right and look along the top you can see it.
> We want 3 with out a huge crown and we want 3 that are about the same.
> 
> On a side note the lumber yard is closed until monday I forgot it was Saturday. I cant drive The big pieces the 40 minutes from Lowes safely I dont think. Im going to get everything and do the prep work i can move the lower stairs and get the final measurements I believe.


We will be using one of the 2x12s to check for level a totally different way. 
Like you, we often do the deck form up up for concrete and build the stairs and some times others do part of the job. 
At each step we assume the last guy was a goof and did not get it right. Just like looking at the deck and making changes. 
It is never personal but if something went south we need to catch it. 
yes you want 3 that have no cracks on the ends and some what matching crown 
DIY Shed AsktheBuilder How to Crown Lumber - YouTube


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We will be using one of the 2x12s to check for level a totally different way.
> Like you, we often do the deck form up up for concrete and build the stairs and some times others do part of the job.
> At each step we assume the last guy was a goof and did not get it right. Just like looking at the deck and making changes.
> It is never personal but if something went south we need to catch it.
> ...


Just got back i have everything except for the wood. which I wont be able to get until Monday. This is the 2 foot square right?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just got back i have everything except for the wood. which I wont be able to get until Monday. This is the 2 foot square right?


Yes.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes.


Thanks Ill let you know how things go tomorrow. Im ready to get that wood monday and give it a go. Thanks again


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We will be using one of the 2x12s to check for level a totally different way.
> Like you, we often do the deck form up up for concrete and build the stairs and some times others do part of the job.
> At each step we assume the last guy was a goof and did not get it right. Just like looking at the deck and making changes.
> It is never personal but if something went south we need to catch it.
> ...


That makes total sense though and I am more then happy to follow your directions with anything you think needs to be done pretty much unquestioned unless I read something wrong or do not fully understand then I will ask.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> That makes total sense though and I am more then happy to follow your directions with anything you think needs to be done pretty much unquestioned unless I read something wrong or do not fully understand then I will ask.


More rain today going to put in all of the hangers soon though so that is ready atleast.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes.


Going to pick up the wood soon


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Going to pick up the wood soon


Back and unloaded took a few trips a few small things to finish then ready to rumble whenever you are and I appreciate it as always. Just excited haha


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Back and unloaded took a few trips a few small things to finish then ready to rumble whenever you are and I appreciate it as always. Just excited haha


No we want an exact height.
Set a 2x12 on the new concrete and screw it with one screw to the post, exactly level. 









Then measure from the bottom of the 2x12 to the top of the decking.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No we want an exact height.
> Set a 2x12 on the new concrete and screw it with one screw to the post, exactly level.
> View attachment 693136
> 
> ...


Taking those carriage bolts out took my forever. 10 minutes to finish the hangers then I will get that done. Poured all day yesterday didnt feel safe on the ladder. Any suggestions for removing carriage bolts? That right there is tedious work.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Taking those carriage bolts out took my forever. 10 minutes to finish the hangers then I will get that done. Poured all day yesterday didnt feel safe on the ladder. Any suggestions for removing carriage bolts? That right there is tedious work.


You might need a smaller something maybe a smaller bolt to use as a punch to drive it out.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You might need a smaller something maybe a smaller bolt to use as a punch to drive it out.


I unscrewed it all of the way out lol it took me like an hour or more to do 4. Hangers are in Im going to add the 2x8 to the outside now. I can take the frame off of the concrete now? it will get in the way of the 2x12 when i go to level


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I unscrewed it all of the way out lol it took me like an hour or more to do 4. Hangers are in Im going to add the 2x8 to the outside now. I can take the frame off of the concrete now? it will get in the way of the 2x12 when i go to level


Yes you can remove it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I unscrewed it all of the way out lol it took me like an hour or more to do 4. Hangers are in Im going to add the 2x8 to the outside now. I can take the frame off of the concrete now? it will get in the way of the 2x12 when i go to level


With those hangers am i supposed to just do the 4 nails to the rim joist? Or do they get connected to the joists as well. The diagonal holes look like they are for that but they get really close to the edge of the joists.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes you can remove it.


Sorry sir all of these little things take me longer then I think I always under estimate. Just got the frame off is this ok its kind of honeycombed it feels solid though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

That is fine and that is way we tap the sides to vibrate it a little so the fines fill the gaps. I would not worry about that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is fine and that is way we tap the sides to vibrate it a little so the fines fill the gaps. I would not worry about that.


awesome might take alittle while for me to get this set up i need to dig off a slight hump to run the board level to the post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is fine and that is way we tap the sides to vibrate it a little so the fines fill the gaps. I would not worry about that.


One last thing for this 2x8 that we where going to put on the other side of the rim joist. I am not 100% sure how to get it flush I have a small lip from the deck board and where it meets that post all of the hangers are installed I found a video showing me how to do them right.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> One last thing for this 2x8 that we where going to put on the other side of the rim joist. I am not 100% sure how to get it flush I have a small lip from the deck board and where it meets that post all of the hangers are installed I found a video showing me how to do them right.


I did run into a problem though. The lip I was going to dig is the concrete from the next post. Can i use some other pieces of wood to kind of jack it up above the hump? The concrete also has a slight lip in a some spots one it is throwing slightl off of level.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> One last thing for this 2x8 that we where going to put on the other side of the rim joist. I am not 100% sure how to get it flush I have a small lip from the deck board and where it meets that post all of the hangers are installed I found a video showing me how to do them right.


You could remove the deck board and install the 2x8 and cut the deck board to fit, or just put it flush the the 2x6 below the deck board.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I did run into a problem though. The lip I was going to dig is the concrete from the next post. Can i use some other pieces of wood to kind of jack it up above the hump? The concrete also has a slight lip in a some spots one it is throwing slightl off of level.


Just set a spacer on the concrete and do it, measure up to the deck and then add the height of the spacer you used.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You could remove the deck board and install the 2x8 and cut the deck board to fit, or just put it flush the the 2x6 below the deck board.


Ok I dont want to mess with things to much. am I running it to the outside edges of the post or Just down the rim joist? Can I use a shim in the gap?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok I dont want to mess with things to much. am I running it to the outside edges of the post or Just down the rim joist? Can I use a shim in the gap?


No you are making a beam, that is when they are nailed tight together so shims would not make it strong.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No you are making a beam, that is when they are nailed tight together so shims would not make it strong.


Think I am good here checking set up with you before I measure


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Think I am good here checking set up with you before I measure


Yes, set the level on the deck sticking and measure to the bottom of the level and add the 4 1/2" or what ever the spacer is.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, set the level on the deck sticking and measure to the bottom of the level and add the 4 1/2" or what ever the spacer is.


Like this?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Like this?


To the bottom of the 2x12?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> To the bottom of the 2x12?


I Just wanted to make sure the set up was ok.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> To the bottom of the 2x12?


So ive checked 3 times and also back checked it measuring the 2x12 seems to be right on 113" then 4 5/8" for the spacer so 17 5/8 Im going to go check again though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So ive checked 3 times and also back checked it measuring the 2x12 seems to be right on 113" then 4 5/8" for the spacer so 17 5/8 Im going to go check again though


And that is we never trust the other guys work or the work we did last week.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> So ive checked 3 times and also back checked it measuring the 2x12 seems to be right on 113" then 4 5/8" for the spacer so 17 5/8 Im going to go check again though


I had some fluctuation to 17 3/8"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> And that is we never trust the other guys work or the work we did last week.


Haha thats funny


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Haha thats funny


I can say with 99% certainty based on what I know(not much) using this set up I have fluctuation from 17 3/8"-17 5/8"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I can say with 99% certainty based on what I know(not much) using this set up I have fluctuation from 17 3/8"-17 5/8"


117 1/2" it is then. As long as we are within 1/4" at the bottom and if it more we can split it with the top step and still be to code. 

What time is it at your place.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I can say with 99% certainty based on what I know(not much) using this set up I have fluctuation from 17 3/8"-17 5/8"


I think its because its hard to get the tape measure below the 2x12 I get 117 3/8" when I measure to the top of the 2x12 at 101 1/4 and then measure the 2x12 at 11 1/2 " and add the spacer height of 4 5/8"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 117 1/2" it is then. As long as we are within 1/4" at the bottom and if it more we can split it with the top step and still be to code.


Awesome sounds good i always get excited at the end of each little step lol


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome sounds good i always get excited at the end of each little step lol


Lol bout to put in my order for dinner wish I could for you lol I can put a takeout order for neal if you got a local place you like lol Im thinking of ways to send yah something. Easiest way without any real personal info would be sending an electronic giftcard. Ive got some ideas but Honestly just want to send you something you would like. My best guess was a meat box or something


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Lol bout to put in my order for dinner wish I could for you lol I can put a takeout order for neal if you got a local place you like lol Im thinking of ways to send yah something. Easiest way without any real personal info would be sending an electronic giftcard. Ive got some ideas but Honestly just want to send you something you would like. My best guess was a meat box or something


Not needed. 








We should have made the first joist a 2x10 so we have to add to the bottom of the that joist. 
Om the wall side you can add a 2x6, 11 inches long right behind the joist with about 6 screws to make it solid.
we will need something similar to the other side but i don't think I have a picture of it. 









We can work on one stringer before you have to remove the old stairs but if you are waiting for me you can remove the railing anytime,


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not needed.
> View attachment 693171
> 
> We should have made the first joist a 2x10 so we have to add to the bottom of the that joist.
> ...


Like this?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Like this?


yes.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> yes.





Nealtw said:


> yes.


I wanted to clarify How I was supposed to attach the beam to the rimjoist on the outside. Sorry this drawing is bad but the yellow is edge of post to edge of post and the green is along the rimjoist length. When creating that beam which am I doing? Also Mostly done demoing the railings leaving the railings at the landing on for now. I extended as you wanted.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I wanted to clarify How I was supposed to attach the beam to the rimjoist on the outside. Sorry this drawing is bad but the yellow is edge of post to edge of post and the green is along the rimjoist length. When creating that beam which am I doing? Also Mostly done demoing the railings leaving the railings at the landing on for now. I extended as you wanted.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Can you post a picture of the post side like this?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> yes.


Also Im dumb I only extended one side and the other side as a small piece sticking out held in by 3 screws it does really seem to be attached to anything I dont remember why we put that their. Maybe to extend the post a bit


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Also Im dumb I only extended one side and the other side as a small piece sticking out held in by 3 screws it does really seem to be attached to anything I dont remember why we put that their. Maybe to extend the post a bit


Fill this space with a 2x6 , with about 6 screws in it. 








Then add a 2x6 here 11" long.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Fill this space with a 2x6 , with about 6 screws in it.
> View attachment 693273
> 
> Then add a 2x6 here 11" long.
> View attachment 693275


Is it over kill to add a carriage bolt down the middle of this to tie the 3 pieces together? My longest screws are 3 inches so they wont go through from 2nd addition to rim joist


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Is it over kill to add a carriage bolt down the middle of this to tie the 3 pieces together? My longest screws are 3 inches so they wont go through from 2nd addition to rim joist


I think Ihave one long enough to go through all 4 boards


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Is it over kill to add a carriage bolt down the middle of this to tie the 3 pieces together? My longest screws are 3 inches so they wont go through from 2nd addition to rim joist


Yes that would be over kill 
3" is fine.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think Ihave one long enough to go through all 4 boards


no.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes that would be over kill
> 3" is fine.


Ok haha I have 6 in each board


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok haha I have 6 in each board


Do you have 2x6 to go across below the last joist screwed into those 2x6 blocks?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok haha I have 6 in each board





Nealtw said:


> Do you have 2x6 to go across below the last joist screwed into those 2x6 blocks?


Yeah I have enough to do that


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah I have enough to do that


Put that in there and we will do more up there later when we are further along. 
After that we should be ready for some technical stuff with a stringer. 
How long is the 2x6 for that spot?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put that in there and we will do more up there later when we are further along.
> After that we should be ready for some technical stuff with a stringer.
> How long is the 2x6 for that spot?


Sorry was just finishing hanging the beam always ahrd with one person haha rewarding for a small thing though does that look good? getting those measurements now


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put that in there and we will do more up there later when we are further along.
> After that we should be ready for some technical stuff with a stringer.
> How long is the 2x6 for that spot?


Alright so a few things I ran into. because of the hangers the boards dont sit fully flush its making a gap when I line it up with the piece the stairs are attached to.it pokes out of flush when I make it flush with the 2x6 vertical additions.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Alright so a few things I ran into. because of the hangers the boards dont sit fully flush its making a gap when I line it up with the piece the stairs are attached to.it pokes out of flush when I make it flush with the 2x6 vertical additions.


Close enough, we will deal with with the stringer, thanks for showing me.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Close enough, we will deal with with the stringer, thanks for showing me.


No thank you, So I am good to add that 2x6 in? its 35" from one the outside edge of each vertical addition


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> No thank you, So I am good to add that 2x6 in? its 35" from one the outside edge of each vertical addition


Yes.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> No thank you, So I am good to add that 2x6 in? its 35" from one the outside edge of each vertical addition


Set up you saw horses with one of the 2x12s.
And will be working with your square, a 3 ft straight piece of 2x4 and clamps.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Set up you saw horses with one of the 2x12s.
> And will be working with your square, a 3 ft straight piece of 2x4 and clamps.


awesome ive got the 2x4 ready and the 2x12 on the saw horses. Im attaching a photo though because this piece is atleast a quarter inch gap off of the other piece when flush against the vertical additions


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> awesome ive got the 2x4 ready and the 2x12 on the saw horses. Im attaching a photo though because this piece is atleast a quarter inch gap off of the other piece when flush against the vertical additions


Understood, just another detail to deal with.
Okay everything to do with the square and drawing lined has to be very accurate.
A mistake of 1/16" on each for 15 or 16 steps will make them out by 1" and not usable.
You are absolutely sure that 117 1/2 was the right number?
That makes our risers exactly 7 11/32"
So we set up the square like this.









If your square is like mine it is marked with 1/16"
This needs to be as close to perfect as you can get it. For both the 10" and the riser.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Understood, just another detail to deal with.
> Okay everything to do with the square and drawing lined has to be very accurate.
> A mistake of 1/16" on each for 15 or 16 steps will make them out by 1" and not usable.
> You are absolutely sure that 117 1/2 was the right number?
> ...


I checked the measurements many times from the top and bottom with the level taped down on the deck. I am as positive as I can be given the situation. I always tend to second guess myself but I tried to second guess check proof myself yesterday.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I checked the measurements many times from the top and bottom with the level taped down on the deck. I am as positive as I can be given the situation. I always tend to second guess myself but I tried to second guess check proof myself yesterday.


Good.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Understood, just another detail to deal with.
> Okay everything to do with the square and drawing lined has to be very accurate.
> A mistake of 1/16" on each for 15 or 16 steps will make them out by 1" and not usable.
> You are absolutely sure that 117 1/2 was the right number?
> ...


the short part of my L is only marked to 1/12 1/10 Im going to try my best to get it right on and send you a photo.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> the short part of my L is only marked to 1/12 1/10 Im going to try my best to get it right on and send you a photo.


Look on the other side of the square.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Look on the other side of the square.


Yeah I am a moron lol here is the set up though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah I am a moron lol here is the set up though.


And that is the biggest mistake fore the new guy. 
It has to line up with edge of the board not the rounded top.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> And that is the biggest mistake fore the new guy.
> It has to line up with edge of the board not the rounded top.
> View attachment 693337


Ill give it an adjustment and send a new photo


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

think this is better


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> think this is better


That looks really close.
That is a common thing when marking the stringer the line has to to the bottom of the round or you can be all over the place and spoil the stringer.









Did you learn how to crown the 2x12s? Mark the edge up we want the crown to up where will be marking the treads


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That looks really close.
> That is a common thing when marking the stringer the line has to to the bottom of the round or you can be all over the place and spoil the stringer.
> View attachment 693344
> 
> ...


I have some idea I watched that video and some others my eye is ok at picking it up. so the "curve" on top or bottom? I think I got 3 good pieces though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have some idea I watched that video and some others my eye is ok at picking it up. so the "curve" on top or bottom? I think I got 3 good pieces though


Most have some crown and we always want it up. if we have it down it is more likely to sag.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Most have some crown and we always want it up. if we have it down it is more likely to sag.


when i look straight down the flat end of this 2x12 I the slightest bend up in the board is the crown supposed to be on th 12 inch flat or the 2 inch flat? ive seen some confusing videos that say both.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Most have some crown and we always want it up. if we have it down it is more likely to sag.


So this is how my eye is seeing the crown. the black lines are far more drastic then the actual crown though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So this is how my eye is seeing the crown. the black lines are far more drastic then the actual crown though


yes
When we mark these a pencil line can get real fat in no time and make likes that are 1/6" thick. 
One of my guys marked with a pencil and a utility knife for more accuracy.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> yes
> When we mark these a pencil line can get real fat in no time and make likes that are 1/6" thick.
> One of my guys marked with a pencil and a utility knife for more accuracy.


so the high point will be the side we cut on? i have a sharpener and pencils to keep um sharp i can litely scoe with the utility knife also though if its better for somebody like me to try and be as accurate as possible. Never realized the tiny room of error i would have to work with these.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> yes
> When we mark these a pencil line can get real fat in no time and make likes that are 1/6" thick.
> One of my guys marked with a pencil and a utility knife for more accuracy.


I saw somebody use a chalk line to measure the crown i dont have one but the tractor supply down the street probably does.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I saw somebody use a chalk line to measure the crown i dont have one but the tractor supply down the street probably does.


If you hold up on edge and look passed the edge of the top you should not be able to the the other end. 
If you are looking at the wrong edge you would be to see the other one. 
We do see some straight ones so if you can't figure it for sure, just pick one.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you hold up on edge and look passed the edge of the top you should not be able to the the other end.
> If you are looking at the wrong edge you would be to see the other one.
> We do see some straight ones so if you can't figure it for sure, just pick one.


Ok cool i did see that now. It is how i drew it slight hump on the photos left side viewing and slight indent right side viewing


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Okay you want to start with the point of the square about 1" from the end of the board 
and mark that then move up the board . 

















Go all the way to the top even the last when you run out of wood.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay you want to start with the point of the square about 1" from the end of the board
> and mark that then move up the board .
> View attachment 693350
> 
> ...


Ok cool so im running the 2x4 along the indent or the hump of the crown? Just want to be 100% before I start I know it should be simple lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok cool so im running the 2x4 along the indent or the hump of the crown? Just want to be 100% before I start I know it should be simple lol


The hump side is the crown yes that is the side you are sliding the 2x4 along.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The hump side is the crown yes that is the side you are sliding the 2x4 along.


Awesome bout to give it a go


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay you want to start with the point of the square about 1" from the end of the board
> and mark that then move up the board .
> View attachment 693350
> 
> ...


So it is looking good but i caught myself on the 4th one not going to the edge of the round. glad I caught it. How much would that have thrown me off by the end?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So it is looking good but i caught myself on the 4th one not going to the edge of the round. glad I caught it. How much would that have thrown me off by the end?


That looks like 1/4" 
When you are done confirm that you have 15 steps
Measure between the points and double check you work the measure between the points should all be the same or really really close.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That looks like 1/4"
> When you are done confirm that you have 15 steps
> Measure between the points and double check you work the measure between the points should all be the same or really really close.
> View attachment 693361





Nealtw said:


> That looks like 1/4"
> When you are done confirm that you have 15 steps
> Measure between the points and double check you work the measure between the points should all be the same or really really close.
> View attachment 693361


Ok this half one at the end is the 16th and im not done measuring yet but the gap seems consistent between each so far at about 12 5/16"


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That looks like 1/4"
> When you are done confirm that you have 15 steps
> Measure between the points and double check you work the measure between the points should all be the same or really really close.
> View attachment 693361


Running to the store to get some dinner. As always I appreciate it and its awesome to learn all of these tricks. That rig is cool.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok this half one at the end is the 16th and im not done measuring yet but the gap seems consistent between each so far at about 12 5/16"


I just want you make a couple cuts and we can explore how to check it before you cut it and with out taking all the old stairs down yet.
Do you have safety glasses, most time you can get a better cut if you are looking at the blade.








I will need a picture of the other end so I can draw on it too.
Enjoy dinner. See you in the morning.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I just want you make a couple cuts and we can explore how to check it before you cut it and with out taking all the old stairs down yet.
> Do you have safety glasses, most time you can get a better cut if you are looking at the blade.
> View attachment 693371
> 
> ...


I have some goggles that fit over my glasses and dont fog. I can do some cuts if you want. Also I will get those photos now.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I just want you make a couple cuts and we can explore how to check it before you cut it and with out taking all the old stairs down yet.
> Do you have safety glasses, most time you can get a better cut if you are looking at the blade.
> View attachment 693371
> 
> ...


Here are the photos the side I sent you first is the side I finished measuring. These 2 photos are of the side I started. Sorry I wasnt trying to take off on you I am ready to work haha.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I just want you make a couple cuts and we can explore how to check it before you cut it and with out taking all the old stairs down yet.
> Do you have safety glasses, most time you can get a better cut if you are looking at the blade.
> View attachment 693371
> 
> ...


Otherwise I certainly will enjoy dinner (as always lol) and as always appreciate it (as always also)have a goodnight. Thank you


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Add 1/4" to the top tread to 10 1/4 inches
Use your square and draw this line to the bottom and make these two cuts.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Add 1/4" to the top tread to 10 1/4 inches
> Use your square and draw this line to the bottom and make these two cuts.
> 
> View attachment 693378


like this?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> like this?


Yes those 2 lines can be cut.








Pay real close attention to which side of the like you want to cut


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes those 2 lines can be cut.
> View attachment 693384
> 
> Pay real close attention to which side of the like you want to cut


so for the step I am cutting to the left of the line and for the new line I am doing to the right of the line slightly? Storm rolling through right now.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> so for the step I am cutting to the left of the line and for the new line I am doing to the right of the line slightly? Storm rolling through right now.


Most time the blade is slight wider than the pencil line. We would like to remove the line but just the line so if the blade is wider the wider is no the waste side. 
One trick is to go up and down and put an X on the waste side of the line for a reminder.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Most time the blade is slight wider than the pencil line. We would like to remove the line but just the line so if the blade is wider the wider is no the waste side.
> One trick is to go up and down and put an X on the waste side of the line for a reminder.


Ok cool Im cutting to the middle of the X. Sorry I am fading lol I honestly didnt realize it up to 9 lol. Fun and satisfying day even if on the outside doesnt look like I got a ton done I feel accomplished.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok cool Im cutting to the middle of the X. Sorry I am fading lol I honestly didnt realize it up to 9 lol. Fun and satisfying day even if on the outside doesnt look like I got a ton done I feel accomplished.


Rain on and off all day but shouldnt effect much.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Most time the blade is slight wider than the pencil line. We would like to remove the line but just the line so if the blade is wider the wider is no the waste side.
> One trick is to go up and down and put an X on the waste side of the line for a reminder.


Just sitting here working on a school project ready whenever no rush of course never want it to seem like I am to you I just appreciate your time.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just sitting here working on a school project ready whenever no rush of course never want it to seem like I am to you I just appreciate your time.


So you have those ends cut?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So you have those ends cut?


I started on the one end I am honestly having a hard time staying completely straight on that I mean its not terrible but its not perfect Nervous to do this many cuts like that honestly. Maybe little 2x4 jig or something to try and keep me straight on. I know I need more confidence in the cutting it would just suck to mess one of these beams up.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I started on the one end I am honestly having a hard time staying completely straight on that I mean its not terrible but its not perfect Nervous to do this many cuts like that honestly. Maybe little 2x4 jig or something to try and keep me straight on. I know I need more confidence in the cutting it would just suck to mess one of these beams up.


Measure from the blade to the side of the table of the saw and clamp the square to the board that far away from the line.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure from the blade to the side of the table of the saw and clamp the square to the board that far away from the line.
> View attachment 693471


this is quite hard lol. I am trying my best getting the square right on for the inside cut I also did not go all the way down the red. Not sure why im having such a hard time when these it also chipped some near acrack at the edge.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes those 2 lines can be cut.
> View attachment 693384
> 
> Pay real close attention to which side of the like you want to cut


I think this one turned out better I still messed up alittle though.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think this one turned out better I still messed up alittle though.


All we can ask is that you do the best you can. One friend was so afraid of the skill saw he did it with a jig saw and clamped something beside it to get straight cuts. 
If you have both ends cut, I would like to do a test fit. 
Can you remove the top tread of the old stairs and take some pictures of that one board that we put under that tread to see if we can remove part of it and do the test?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> All we can ask is that you do the best you can. One friend was so afraid of the skill saw he did it with a jig saw and clamped something beside it to get straight cuts.
> If you have both ends cut, I would like to do a test fit.
> Can you remove the top tread of the old stairs and take some pictures of that one board that we put under that tread to see if we can remove part of it and do the test?


yeah, I will do that now. I'm going to be looking up ways i can get this cut straight If its not right I can go pick up another one as bad as that will me I would have a large board left to practice on not much in the grand scheme of things.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> All we can ask is that you do the best you can. One friend was so afraid of the skill saw he did it with a jig saw and clamped something beside it to get straight cuts.
> If you have both ends cut, I would like to do a test fit.
> Can you remove the top tread of the old stairs and take some pictures of that one board that we put under that tread to see if we can remove part of it and do the test?


Lol i put the screws inside that rim joist so i had to carefull cut them


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Can you put some screws close to each side and cut some out of the center of that piece 
And install the 2x6 to the blocks below?
And then post another picture.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 693510
> 
> Can you put some screws close to each side and cut some out of the center of that piece
> And install the 2x6 to the blocks below?
> And then post another picture.


Does it matter how big the space is?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Does it matter how big the space is?


Just snug up the screws and then tighten them after you make the cut.
Or put a shim or spacer between them.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 693510
> 
> Can you put some screws close to each side and cut some out of the center of that piece
> And install the 2x6 to the blocks below?
> And then post another picture.


getting their sorry those cuts are take awhile not much room to make them being careful of the deck boards and rim joist behind almost through though


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> getting their sorry those cuts are take awhile not much room to make them being careful of the deck boards and rim joist behind almost through though


Set the depth on the saw a little less than 1 1/2" and finish with a hand saw.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just snug up the screws and then tighten them after you make the cut.
> Or put a shim or spacer between them.


2 of the screws i had to cut because the heads are between the rim and the board. can i drill them out or something? or maybe i can get in the gap underneath and cut


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 2 of the screws i had to cut because the heads are between the rim and the board. can i drill them out or something? or maybe i can get in the gap underneath and cut


I am not understand why they would be a problem?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am not understand why they would be a problem?


The screw are holding up the piece that i cut. the heads of the screw are in between the rim joist and the board i must have put them in the wrong spot. I also messed up and cut into the rim joist


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am not understand why they would be a problem?


o yeah i am dumb but i did cut into the bottom of the rim because I am dumb. Idk how badly until I get the wood off.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The screw are holding up the piece that i cut. the heads of the screw are in between the rim joist and the board i must have put them in the wrong spot. I also messed up and cut into the rim joist


Then go to the inside of the rim and remove the screws?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The screw are holding up the piece that i cut. the heads of the screw are in between the rim joist and the board i must have put them in the wrong spot. I also messed up and cut into the rim joist


After you have the cuts made can you just pry the board off.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> After you have the cuts made can you just pry the board off.


yeah i was just being dumb lot going on today and yesterday. I cut into the rim its not great on the inside of each corner like a moron .


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> yeah i was just being dumb lot going on today and yesterday. I cut into the rim its not great on the inside of each corner like a moron .


We will deal with that can you install the 2x6 below and take a picture from standing on the stairs. Like the first picture?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We will deal with that can you install the 2x6 below and take a picture from standing on the stairs. Like the first picture?





Nealtw said:


> We will deal with that can you install the 2x6 below and take a picture from standing on the stairs. Like the first picture?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

This is just a test fit and it is not where the stringer will be when finished. 
Measure down 7 11/32" and draw a line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This is just a test fit and it is not where the stringer will be when finished.
> Measure down 7 11/32" and draw a line.
> View attachment 693519


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

That is lower than I was thinking. add a temp block 








So you can hold the stringer up to the line and add a screw to hold it there.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is lower than I was thinking. add a temp block
> View attachment 693525
> 
> So you can hold the stringer up to the line and add a screw to hold it there.


Which side was the top? of the stringer again? I havent moved anything yet


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Which side was the top? of the stringer again? I havent moved anything yet


The 7" lines go up and down and the 10 inch lines are level.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The 7" lines go up and down and the 10 inch lines are level.


I messed up my last cut now the blade slipped some. it was going really well to. mad at myself also idk if i can safely get that up there tonigth i am fading again. ill try though idk what to do bout tht cut right now though


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I messed up my last cut now the blade slipped some. it was going really well to. mad at myself


Just put it up and see what happens


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just put it up and see what happens


So i managed to manuever that beast up lol but the 2nd top tread is in the way of it going ll the way up. I am reluctant to take that step down tonight I wont beable to get in or out without my neighbors ladder that i can grab tomorrow


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is lower than I was thinking. add a temp block
> View attachment 693525
> 
> So you can hold the stringer up to the line and add a screw to hold it there.


Here is the bottom


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So i managed to manuever that beast up lol but the 2nd top tread is in the way of it going ll the way up. I am reluctant to take that step down tonight I wont beable to get in or out without my neighbors ladder that i can grab tomorrow


All we want to do is get it up and then check that the 10" top is sitting level and the end is at the right angle where it runs into the new board you just installed. If we have that info you can take it down and replace the treads.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> All we want to do is get it up and then check that the 10" top is sitting level and the end is at the right angle where it runs into the new board you just installed. If we have that info you can take it down and replace the treads.


Ok sounds good im not sure the treads will go back in after i get them out with how bad they currently are but I can try honestly I just ran out of light though I will see what I can do


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok sounds good im not sure the treads will go back in after i get them out with how bad they currently are but I can try honestly I just ran out of light though I will see what I can do


Or just cut a chunk out of the tread so it can come up. 








Or take it down and cut the top step or just a chunk of it for now?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok sounds good im not sure the treads will go back in after i get them out with how bad they currently are but I can try honestly I just ran out of light though I will see what I can do


It looks like it is going to work but I would like to be sure, If you do that in the morning and the 10" top is level then you can carry on cutting it out. 
Should we be talking about cutting them out?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Or just cut a chunk out of the tread so it can come up.
> View attachment 693549
> 
> Or take it down and cut the top step or just a chunk of it for now?
> View attachment 693550


I got that cut and its almost there 3rd tread is hitting now though. If you say cut it I will but I am hesitant its almost 9 with elderly neighbors on all sides. they are very kind about me doing all of this work anyway already. Idk


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It looks like it is going to work but I would like to be sure, If you do that in the morning and the 10" top is level then you can carry on cutting it out.
> Should we be talking about cutting them out?


We can talk about cutting them out for sure. My confidence is up some with the saw but I think i am going to try and make a jig. I saw some on some videos earlier that might help some even if it takes longer.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> We can talk about cutting them out for sure. im confidence is up some with the saw but I think i am going to try and make a jig. I saw some on some videos earlier that might help some even if it takes longer.


Do you have a chunk of 1/4" or 1/2" plywood?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a chunk of 1/4" or 1/2" plywood?


I do lying around somewhere


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I do lying around somewhere


You will need two jigs 
Can you post a picture of you saw?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You will need two jigs
> Can you post a picture of you saw?


Dewalt 7 1/4


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Dewalt 7 1/4


See how all the paint has rubbed off the blade. A deep blade in a 2x will tend to keep you straight. 
Make all you adjustment in the first 1/2" back start over get it right and then cut, the paint should still be there when the blade is worn out. 
1/2" plywood and strips of something 1/4" would be best for the jigs. 
Pictures soon.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> See how all the paint has rubbed off the blade. A deep blade in a 2x will tend to keep you straight.
> Make all you adjustment in the first 1/2" back start over get it right and then cut, the paint should still be there when the blade is worn out.
> 1/2" plywood and strips of something 1/4" would be best for the jigs.
> Pictures soon.


 Thank you, Is my blade shot from moving crookedly then? I have a nice new blade to put on it honestly slipped my mind to do it though. Truly appreciate it had some frustrating moments today lol. I guess that is typical in construction just cant let it through me off. (part of it was my math project for school lol)


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Dewalt 7 1/4





LearningTrades said:


> Thank you, Is my blade shot from moving crookedly then? I have a nice new blade to put on it honestly slipped my mind to do it though. Truly appreciate it had some frustrating moments today lol. I guess that is typical in construction just cant let it through me off. (part of it was my math project for school lol)


It is the teeth that count, the cuts don't look like the blade is bad.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you, Is my blade shot from moving crookedly then? I have a nice new blade to put on it honestly slipped my mind to do it though. Truly appreciate it had some frustrating moments today lol. I guess that is typical in construction just cant let it through me off. (part of it was my math project for school lol)


Use the square with the same to measures 10 and 7 11/32"
Mark each angle on two pieces of 1/2" plywood








Extend the lines right across the plywoods.








screw strips of 1/4" something that is straight right on the line








You will have to *raise the blade 1/4"* so the motor does not run into the 1/4" strip.
And cut the end off using the 1/4" strip to guide the saw.
Add a 2x4 on edge under the edge of it so you can screw that to the face of the stringer.









More in a few.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

When we make these cut we never want to go to far, we stop at the line and then finish the cuts with a hand saw.









So with the first cut you want make sure you have a line to stop at that you can see while cutting.










So make the first cut being care full to stop at the line and while the saw is still there Put a screw in to the jig in front of the saw so it will stop you on all the rest of the cuts.









Questions?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

When you first screw the jig to the stringer if the angle is not exactly the same as the drawn lines, adjust the 2x4 to make it right.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> When you first screw the jig to the stringer if the angle is not exactly the same as the drawn lines, adjust the 2x4 to make it right.


I was having trouble getting and keep it exactly right with the clamps earlier moving just a fraction while I tightened.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> When we make these cut we never want to go to far, we stop at the line and then finish the cuts with a hand saw.
> View attachment 693558
> 
> 
> ...


Everything looks really good. I really appreciate the details. I honestly dont think I could follow what you mean with the majority of this without them. Again really appreciated. Im going over everything now again some questions but part of that will be getting my hands on everything.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I was having trouble getting and keep it exactly right with the clamps earlier moving just a fraction while I tightened.


You will just be drawing One line one each jig so you don't really need the clamps and when you first use it you can adjust it by moving the 2x4 to make the angle right.
1/2" plywood and 1/4" strip uses 3/4" so you will only be cutting 1 1/2" deep. you may have to finish a little with the handsaw.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

It is the same as building a plywood cutting jig.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You will just be drawing One line one each jig so you don't really need the clamps and when you first use it you can adjust it by moving the 2x4 to make the angle right.
> 1/2" plywood and 1/4" strip uses 3/4" so you will only be cutting 1 1/2" deep. you may have to finish a little with the handsaw.


Awesome lol those things can be a pain lol.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It is the same as building a plywood cutting jig.
> View attachment 693562


Awesome looks like some of what I was looking at earlier but you gave me the actual design for these cuts which is again awesome. Excited to try again and seeing the stringer up is awesome I know its not set or cut but it was a huge visual and I also figured out I can hoist those up without tooo much issue though it was a struggle to figure it out.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome looks like some of what I was looking at earlier but you gave me the actual design for these cuts which is again awesome. Excited to try again and seeing the stringer up is awesome I know its not set or cut but it was a huge visual and I also figured out I can hoist those up without tooo much issue though it was a struggle to figure it out.


Went to get some ply wood also ran into the lap of the other board moving the stringer up. it looks like the last little bit it needs to go will make it level though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Went to get some ply wood also ran into the lap of the other board moving the stringer up. it looks like the last little bit it needs to go will make it level though.


Is that at 7 11/32 from the top of the deck boards?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is that at 7 11/32 from the top of the deck boards?


o no i messed up sorry let me fix that


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is that at 7 11/32 from the top of the deck boards?


Ok I have it now Its not level the cut I made most have been bad


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok I have it now Its not level the cut I made most have been bad


I want to see, and hold your level up to other lines and see if they are level?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is that at 7 11/32 from the top of the deck boards?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Put your level down level with the corner by the deck and draw a new line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I want to see, and hold your level up to other lines and see if they are level?


Those are actually level a couple places a tiny bit off the board honestly looks like its twisted alittle bit more or crowned more or something. definitely has warped slightly


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Those are actually level a couple places a tiny bit off the board honestly looks like its twisted alittle bit more or crowned more or something. definitely has warped slightly


This not level, level the bubble is dead center, 








Draw the line like I asked? 
These are stairs, we aim for perfection.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put your level down level with the corner by the deck and draw a new line.
> View attachment 693598


Ok got that will it affect measurements of everything since its overlapping that line now?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This not level, level the bubble is dead center,
> View attachment 693603
> 
> Draw the line like I asked?
> These are stairs, we aim for perfection.


the wood and lines are semi twisted some now so its hard to get the level fully flat


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok got that will it affect measurements of everything since its overlapping that line now?


Yes it changes everything and that is why we check these things, take it down and st it on the saw horses again.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> the wood and lines are semi twisted some now so its hard to get the level fully flat


Hold you level up again and just eye the line and see if it is good.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Hold you level up again and just eye the line and see if it is good.


It seems some of the "twisted" areas are off just like a fraction like less then pencil line I found some areas I could lie flat though and they look good. Sorry i cant delete those first 2 images


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> the wood and lines are semi twisted some now so its hard to get the level fully flat


The problem is, I don't think we can correct some. right now it is a little long so we can correct it but we can't test fit after that so we will take the new angle and start over on another board. This board will still be usable just not for the first one. 

This will show our mistake . set the square on the new line at 10" and read the 7" side. Is that different than what you had before?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The problem is, I don't think we can correct some. right now it is a little long so we can correct it but we can't test fit after that so we will take the new angle and start over on another board. This board will still be usable just not for the first one.
> 
> This will show our mistake . set the square on the new line at 10" and read the 7" side. Is that different than what you had before?
> View attachment 693610


Should i take the beam down before I do any of this? Im kind of just assuming


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The problem is, I don't think we can correct some. right now it is a little long so we can correct it but we can't test fit after that so we will take the new angle and start over on another board. This board will still be usable just not for the first one.
> 
> This will show our mistake . set the square on the new line at 10" and read the 7" side. Is that different than what you had before?
> View attachment 693610


Even if that board doesnt end up being usable 75 extra for a new one for it is a small price to pay to learn this stuff and end up with my new stairs. More of a pain just getting it here lol.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Should i take the beam down before I do any of this? Im kind of just assuming


Yes I did say that earlier.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Even if that board doesnt end up being usable 75 extra for a new one for it is a small price to pay to learn this stuff and end up with my new stairs. More of a pain just getting it here lol.


It will be usable, we had it at 7 11/32, but when done that is where the top of the treads will be.
This why we check it at this stage while we can still move on and mistakes can still be used.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes it changes everything and that is why we check these things, take it down and st it on the saw horses again.


Sorry i missed this comment


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The problem is, I don't think we can correct some. right now it is a little long so we can correct it but we can't test fit after that so we will take the new angle and start over on another board. This board will still be usable just not for the first one.
> 
> This will show our mistake . set the square on the new line at 10" and read the 7" side. Is that different than what you had before?
> View attachment 693610


It looks like it is almost exactly the same if I am reading it right here are the photos


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> It looks like it is almost exactly the same if I am reading it right here are the photos


edit


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> It looks like it is almost exactly the same if I am reading it right here are the photos


Remember that a 1/16" mistake is an inch in 16 steps


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Remember that a 1/16" mistake is an inch in 16 steps
> View attachment 693619


Its reading out as 7 5/12" to me


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its reading out as 7 5/12" to me


When you were drawing lines was the square and the clamps giving you trouble, moving a little?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> When you were drawing lines was the square and the clamps giving you trouble, moving a little?


I didnt notice anything with it moving but its honestly possible it shifted slightly I was actually going to go get some different clamps to do it but road work would have made it take forever.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its reading out as 7 5/12" to me


Your square set in 12ths does not help 
I am have trouble figuring what went wrong so bear with me.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Your square set in 12ths does not help
> I am have trouble figuring what went wrong so bear with me.


It was the only one they had somethings are limited here


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Your square set in 12ths does not help
> I am have trouble figuring what went wrong so bear with me.


No problem at all I just appreciate everything you are doing and help me with . I cant expect things to go perfectly with my skill level I honestly think its incredibly impressive how you can figure things out from photos and explanations and come up with the right results guiding lower skill people like myself through these things.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

set it up just like you had it and then put in some screws tight beside the s


LearningTrades said:


> It was the only one they had somethings are limited here


Flip the square so the short end of the square in on the 10" side and then you will have 16th 
We are looking for right between 5 and 6 16th.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> set it up just like you had it and then put in some screws tight beside the s
> 
> Flip the square so the short end of the square in on the 10" side and then you will have 16th
> We are looking for right between 5 and 6 16th.


Took a minute to get it set up right but I am pretty confident we are right where we need to be on that here is the set up


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

one of my photos was the wrong one


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Took a minute to get it set up right but I am pretty confident we are right where we need to be on that here is the set up


Move the 10" up to the saw cut and see what it reads then?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> set it up just like you had it and then put in some screws tight beside the s
> 
> Flip the square so the short end of the square in on the 10" side and then you will have 16th
> We are looking for right between 5 and 6 16th.


here is the right one


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Move the 10" up to the saw cut and see what it reads then?


Sorry dont understand what you mean on this one


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Move the 10" up to the saw cut and see what it reads then?


I think i measured and cut this section badly it is the one I tried to start and kept stopping because it was going off. I think it is pure human error on my part that it is wrong.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry dont understand what you mean on this one


Line it up with the saw cut to see what the saw cut angle is,


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Line it up with the saw cut to see what the saw cut angle is,


It was much greater almost 8 inches


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think i measured and cut this section badly it is the one I tried to start and kept stopping because it was going off. I think it is pure human error on my part that it is wrong.


That could be it. I would like to prove that so we could just carry on.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That could be it. I would like to prove that so we could just carry on.


I appreciate that truly.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> It was much greater almost 8 inches


So just slide the square along and check some more of you lay outs. 
I am thinking you are right about a bad cut.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That could be it. I would like to prove that so we could just carry on.





Nealtw said:


> So just slide the square along and check some more of you lay outs.
> I am thinking you are right about a bad cut.


i checked 4-5 going down they really seem to be right where we want 7 11/32 right between 5-6/16th
I will check more though or all of them if I should


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> i checked 4-5 going down they really seem to be right where we want 7 11/32 right between 5-6/16th


I thought the angle against the deck and the angle at the concrete both looked good, do you agree?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I thought the angle against the deck and the angle at the concrete both looked good, do you agree?


The angle down at the concrete didnt seem fully flush though mostly with it not sure how much that matters . Flush with the deck absolutely though.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> The angle down at the concrete didnt seem fully flush though mostly with it not sure how much that matters . Flush with the deck absolutely though.





Nealtw said:


> I thought the angle against the deck and the angle at the concrete both looked good, do you agree?





Nealtw said:


> I thought the angle against the deck and the angle at the concrete both looked good, do you agree?


actually looking back at the photo it does look good. good enough atleast i think


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> actually looking back at the photo it does look good. good enough atleast i think


Measure the distance between the cut and the new line . 
Hold the tape measure in the direction of the yellow line


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure the distance between the cut and the new line .
> Hold the tape measure in the direction of the yellow line
> View attachment 693643


i got 3/8"


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> i got 3/8"


So that was some wild cut. 
I think just set that board aside and go back to my instructions on the lay out and do a new board. 
I will go and find a starting point. 
I am glad we did not rip down the old stairs yet.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So that was some wild cut.
> I think just set that board aside and go back to my instructions on the lay out and do a new board.
> I will go and find a starting point.
> I am glad we did not rip down the old stairs yet.


Sounds good thank you, I am not sure what I did to make it so off. Im going to put the new blade on before I go to cut anything lol. I'll get to it now. Honestly will probably take me an hour or two to get everything set up drawn out carefully and cut though. Do i go all the way back to the putting it up step to check the fit again? I am also glad we did not rip them down.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds good thank you, I am not sure what I did to make it so off. Im going to put the new blade on before I go to cut anything lol. I'll get to it now. Honestly will probably take me an hour or two to get everything set up drawn out carefully and cut though. Do i go all the way back to the putting it up step to check the fit again? I am also glad we did not rip them down.


Yes. Don't blame the saw. We know what happened  You will build those jigs for cutting.
Yes we will do it all again and check it again, then we look at it again while it is up.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes. Don't blame the saw. We know what happened  You will build those jigs for cutting.
> Yes we will do it all again and check it again, then we look at it again while it is up.


Haha yeah that is indeed true. im going back through it now


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Haha yeah that is indeed true. im going back through it now


Go back to post 311 and take it step by step and don't be afraid to ask questions.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Understood, just another detail to deal with.
> Okay everything to do with the square and drawing lined has to be very accurate.
> A mistake of 1/16" on each for 15 or 16 steps will make them out by 1" and not usable.
> You are absolutely sure that 117 1/2 was the right number?
> ...


Does this look good now? should be set i think it is


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Does this look good now? should be set i think it is


That looks good, you could compare to what you had on the other board, It must have been real close.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Awesome will do


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That looks good, you could compare to what you had on the other board, It must have been real close.


So I noticed a couple things doing this. 
I put the square on the opposite way this time so I have to lay it weirdly. It does line up well with most of my lines. when I flip it over and load it. Second thing that i noticed is that the clamp moved on me slightly when i bumped it. So it is certainly possible it was moving slightly when I was drawing. Is it ok that its reversed? i just make the other side the top this time? Or should I flip it and do full comparisons.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So I noticed a couple things doing this.
> I put the square on the opposite way this time so I have to lay it weirdly. It does line up well with most of my lines. when I flip it over and load it. Second thing that i noticed is that the clamp moved on me slightly when i bumped it. So it is certainly possible it was moving slightly when I was drawing. Is it ok that its reversed? i just make the other side the top this time? Or should I flip it and do full comparisons.


It is fine to do the opposite side it will just be harder to see the lines in the test fit. 

You can put screws tight against the side of the square so the head of the screw hold it solid.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It is fine to do the opposite side it will just be harder to see the lines in the test fit.
> 
> You can put screws tight against the side of the square so the head of the screw hold it solid.
> View attachment 693658


I will flip it over then I dont need anything harder trying to get back behind that big board lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I will flip it over then I dont need anything harder trying to get back behind that big board lol


Or you would move the little block to the other side at a the deck to put more distance to the wall.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Or you would move the little block to the other side at a the deck to put more distance to the wall.


I ended up just flipping it haha the ground is weird around where i need to put the ladder. I got the screws in took alot of micro adjustments to get it right but i think it is right on and stable now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I ended up just flipping it haha the ground is weird around where i need to put the ladder. I got the screws in took alot of micro adjustments to get it right but i think it is right on and stable now.


I will get on to the next steps then


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Or you would move the little block to the other side at a the deck to put more distance to the wall.


awesome so I was checking the crown and it seems so negligible that I cant really tell which side its on. I think we might have got a 99% straight one. Does it matter where I start on this?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> awesome so I was checking the crown and it seems so negligible that I cant really tell which side its on. I think we might have got a 99% straight one. Does it matter where I start on this?


I would start at the top just like before. I gave you an extra 1/4" at the top because the new 2x6 did not line up with the rim.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would start at the top just like before. I gave you an extra 1/4" at the top because the new 2x6 did not line up with the rim.


the extra 1/4" is part of the initial inch I am measuring out when I start drawing?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> Okay you want to start with the point of the square about 1" from the end of the board
> and mark that then move up the board .
> View attachment 693350


@*LearningTrades*


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> Add 1/4" to the top tread to 10 1/4 inches
> Use your square and draw this line to the bottom and make these two cuts.
> 
> View attachment 693378


Then you add the 1/4" at the top.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay you want to start with the point of the square about 1" from the end of the board
> and mark that then move up the board .
> View attachment 693350
> 
> ...


alright here we go just finished the initial measurements


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then you add the 1/4" at the top.
> View attachment 693675


Yeah was just getting on to that one wasnt sure actually was thinking about that while I was measuring though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah was just getting on to that one wasnt sure actually was thinking about that while I was measuring though.


Yup, these will be you first cuts on the top. Build the jigs for cutting. 










LearningTrades said:


> Yeah was just getting on to that one wasnt sure actually was thinking about that while I was measuring though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yup, these will be you first cuts on the top. Build the jigs for cutting.
> View attachment 693679
> 
> 
> View attachment 693680


So I am reluctant to take apart the jig we made with the 2 foot square. I went to tractor supply and they dont have any been out for like 2 weeks. I decided to try measurin the angle with my speed square from the quarter inch extra mark. Marked this then traced with a straight edge. Does this work or do I really need to use a 2 foot square?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay you want to start with the point of the square about 1" from the end of the board
> and mark that then move up the board .
> View attachment 693350
> 
> ...





Nealtw said:


> Yup, these will be you first cuts on the top. Build the jigs for cutting.
> View attachment 693679
> 
> 
> View attachment 693680


Here is this piece going to work on the jig now.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So I am reluctant to take apart the jig we made with the 2 foot square. I went to tractor supply and they dont have any been out for like 2 weeks. I decided to try measurin the angle with my speed square from the quarter inch extra mark. Marked this then traced with a straight edge. Does this work or do I really need to use a 2 foot square?


Measure the 10 1/4" in 2 places and make sure it is right.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Here is this piece going to work on the jig now.


Walk around the side and put the jig on the other side of the board? 
The jig will work on the back side but you are on the wrong side of the line so you move the jig over 1/8 to allow for the saw blade.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Here is this piece going to work on the jig now.


How much plywood did you pick up, that 10" jig may need more than one try, I can see problems with it. 😕


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Use the square with the same to measures 10 and 7 11/32"
> Mark each angle on two pieces of 1/2" plywood
> View attachment 693552
> 
> ...


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How much plywood did you pick up, that 10" jig may need more than one try, I can see problems with it. 😕


Lol i needed to grab a whole sheet so that is good I havent cut the angle in the ply wood yet but firt time making a jig wanted to see what you thought. I dont have screws that are short enough right now which is why they are sticking up


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Lol i needed to grab a whole sheet so that is good


I havent made the cut yet just wanted to see what you thought lol first time making one of these


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How much plywood did you pick up, that 10" jig may need more than one try, I can see problems with it. 😕


also man lol I am so close but it is just off I think mybe adjust the 2x4 a tiny bit maybe?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Lol i needed to grab a whole sheet so that is good





LearningTrades said:


> I havent made the cut yet just wanted to see what you thought lol first time making one of these


Let's start with 2 pieces of plywood 16x16. straight and square just reasonable you will have one factory edge, 
Measure over 6" in 2 places on each board 
Screw the 1/4" strips on the far side of those lines 








Set it up some where you can cut and check under to so you don't something else. 
Raise the blade 1/4" (motor)
Let the side of the saw base ride against 1/4" strip and it will cut the far edge off and make the jig perfect for that saw and blade. No changing blades after you make the jig. The jig will only be for that blade.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> also man lol I am so close but it is just off I think mybe adjust the 2x4 a tiny bit maybe?


I am building you a different one


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Let's start with 2 pieces of plywood 16x16. straight and square just reasonable you will have one factory edge,
> Measure over 6" in 2 places on each board
> Screw the 1/4" strips on the far side of those lines
> View attachment 693691
> ...


Sounds good. I will need to cut some new pieces out it will likely take another hour maybe slightly longer to get it together. I will be ready to go roll in the morning though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am building you a different one


Was still fun to make lol and satisfying to see it land so close to what we initially wanted. I dont want to confuse myself asking why that one wont work so ill just get started on the new one.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Set it


LearningTrades said:


> Was still fun to make lol and satisfying to see it land so close to what we initially wanted. I don't want to confuse myself asking why that one wont work so ill just get started on the new one.


This one will be better, all you need to know. 
I just tried to use it in my head, and didn't like it and as you can see it did not come up perfect the first time. 
Morning sounds good.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Set it
> 
> This one will be better, all you need to know.
> I just tried to use it in my head, and didn't like it and as you can see it did not come up perfect the first time.
> Morning sounds good.


Im going to get the jigs ready tonight so i can be ready to roll.
Getting up around 830 here now id work all night if I was in the middle of nowhere lol Elderly neighbors on all 4 sides though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Set it on the 10 inch line just like the picture at the start of the line.
Hold the 2x4 under it tight to the stringer and screw the jig to the 2x4. 
There will be instruction on use. But this is built.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 693697
> 
> Set it on the 10 inch line just like the picture at the start of the line.
> Hold the 2x4 under it tight to the stringer and screw the jig to the 2x4.
> ...


Looks good. Definitely will be easier for me to get everything lined up this way.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 693697
> 
> Set it on the 10 inch line just like the picture at the start of the line.
> Hold the 2x4 under it tight to the stringer and screw the jig to the 2x4.
> ...


Thank you as always


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Set this one on the 7" line , like this.








Put the 2x4 on the far side and screw the jig to it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you as always


If the 2x4s are hard to handle while you screw the jigs to them, screw it to the stringer first so it is solid and you don't have to worry about that.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If you have a felt pen write your self a note on the 10" jig. Only on the 10" jig.
1/8" away from the line. 
That allows for the saw blade and that will cut on the line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If the 2x4s are hard to handle while you screw the jigs to them, screw it to the stringer first so it is solid and you don't have to worry about that.


They definitely are that is what I have had to do


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

First cut


LearningTrades said:


> They definitely are that is what I have had to do


Just until you have the jig screwed to them . 
When using them you might screw the 2x4 to the stringer or just screw the jig down to the string or clamp it there. 
What ever works for you.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you have a felt pen write your self a note on the 10" jig. Only on the 10" jig.
> 1/8" away from the line.
> That allows for the saw blade and that will cut on the line.
> View attachment 693702


Took me a second to process that but I certainly will thank you 


Nealtw said:


> First cut
> 
> Just until you have the jig screwed to them .
> When using them you might screw the 2x4 to the stringer or just screw the jig down to the string or clamp it there.
> What ever works for you.


I have a good c clamp to put on it I will screw i if I need to though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Looks good. Definitely will be easier for me to get everything lined up this way.


With both jigs, the first cut you have to watch and stop at the line. 
While the saw is stopped there put a screw at the end so the screw will stop you for the rest of the cuts.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> With both jigs, the first cut you have to watch and stop at the line.
> While the saw is stopped there put a screw at the end so the screw will stop you for the rest of the cuts.
> View attachment 693703


To keep me from going past the point I should finish by hand?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> To keep me from going past the point I should finish by hand?


That is what the pros do, any extra cut is making the stringer weeker.
You will be good at after 45 of them. 

Or you could finish the cut with a jig saw.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is what the pros do, any extra cut is making the stringer weeker.
> You will be good at after 45 of them.
> 
> Or you could finish the cut with a jig saw.
> View attachment 693717


Really appreciate everything. If im going to be doing many things like this going forward is a jigsaw worth it? Looking at the best tools i shoud build up first. I had something come up this morning though chaos ill be bak around 1 i hope its absolutely pouring also hopefully stops.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Really appreciate everything. If im going to be doing many things like this going forward is a jigsaw worth it? Looking at the best tools i shoud build up first. I had something come up this morning though chaos ill be bak around 1 i hope its absolutely pouring also hopefully stops.


There lots you can do with them.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> There lots you can do with them.





Nealtw said:


> There lots you can do with them.


I will need to look into one. Just got back getting ready work now. My concrete is underwater is it ok at this point or should I try and drain it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I will need to look into one. Just got back getting ready work now. My concrete is underwater is it ok at this point or should I try and drain it.


That fine for now, not great for the level of the side walk later


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I will need to look into one. Just got back getting ready work now. My concrete is underwater is it ok at this point or should I try and drain it.


Is this water going to be an ongoing problem if that is the height of the sidewalk? 
This would be the time to do something about it?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is this water going to be an ongoing problem if that is the height of the sidewalk?
> This would be the time to do something about it?


I never had an issue with pooling before I think once the pit is filled in also an exceptional amount of rain today and recently


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is this water going to be an ongoing problem if that is the height of the sidewalk?
> This would be the time to do something about it?


Also just spent awhile fiddling with the jig this is the 7 11/32 looks pretty good to me just wanted to make sure this is what you had in mind.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I never had an issue with pooling before I think once the pit is filled in also an exceptional amount of rain today and recently


Did you have a problem before and have a close look are we lower than it was with the old steps.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Also just spent awhile fiddling with the jig this is the 7 11/32 looks pretty good to me just wanted to make sure this is what you had in mind.


Not sure what the jig would have to do with water?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not sure what the jig would have to do with water?


Thats what I had worked on before I saw your post about the water sorry


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did you have a problem before and have a close look are we lower than it was with the old steps.


Ive never noticed a problem. Based on my mortar mixer id say ive gotten 3 inches of water today. I think its just more then usual. One of these days im going to run a french drain down the side yard was recommended at least a pipe by the inspector because all the weather comes in that way and down the mountain. Ive never noticed pooling like today.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not sure what the jig would have to do with water?


Flash flooding and road closures so im like 99% sure Only can remember 1 storm where its rained harder in the past year


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ive never noticed a problem. Based on my mortar mixer id say ive gotten 3 inches of water today. I think its just more then usual. One of these days im going to run a french drain down the side yard was recommended at least a pipe by the inspector because all the weather comes in that way and down the mountain. Ive never noticed pooling like today.


Okay, this would be the time to change up, but if you feel it is fine, carry on.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay, this would be the time to change up, but if you feel it is fine, carry on.





Nealtw said:


> Okay, this would be the time to change up, but if you feel it is fine, carry on.


What would be a fix for it just the concrete level? I think its ok though. I have the hole dug out from beneath the stairs and that area is usually raised up so water is draining down instead of out I believe.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay, this would be the time to change up, but if you feel it is fine, carry on.


does that jig look ok? I think I got it down for the 7 11/32 just need to fiddle with the 10 " to get it right on.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Also just spent awhile fiddling with the jig this is the 7 11/32 looks pretty good to me just wanted to make sure this is what you had in mind.


Yes sorry the pictures did not show up earlier, that looks good, what do you think?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes sorry the pictures did not show up earlier, that looks good, what do you think?


No problem at all ever lol pictures seem kind of funky here the last few days I am very satisfied with it just double checking


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes sorry the pictures did not show up earlier, that looks good, what do you think?





Nealtw said:


> Yes sorry the pictures did not show up earlier, that looks good, what do you think?


I am having a really hrd time being confident that the 10" jig is line up 100% to 1/8th off the line for the saw blade any suggestion on that?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I am having a really hrd time being confident that the 10" jig is line up 100% to 1/8th off the line for the saw blade any suggestion on that?


You have a quick square, about 1/8" thick just use that to put between the jig and the line? Close enough.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You have a quick square, about 1/8" thick just use that to put between the jig and the line? Close enough.


Funny cause thats what I was doing and it looks perfect but I always worry still always feels better asking especially on these things that are so sensitive to perfection I need to go pick up my car before they close Ill be back working again in 20 or so.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Funny cause thats what I was doing and it looks perfect but I always worry still always feels better asking especially on these things that are so sensitive to perfection I need to go pick up my car before they close Ill be back working again in 20 or so.


Sorry one of those days forgot my wallet and needed to wait more rain lol man. Well should have the next 4-5 hours un interuppted now


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Funny cause thats what I was doing and it looks perfect but I always worry still always feels better asking especially on these things that are so sensitive to perfection I need to go pick up my car before they close Ill be back working again in 20 or so.


Using the 10" jig on that bottom cut from the back, you my not need the 1/8" space. The saw blade would be on the waste side of the line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Using the 10" jig on that bottom cut from the back, you my not need the 1/8" space. The saw blade would be on the waste side of the line.


All set to go with both jigs run down the lines perfectly that I can tell. checked all the way down. The one issue I have is that the 10" jig does not fit on the end so i set something else up I think its ready still but I want to know what you think for sure.
Edit: I think I derped and put the 2x4 on the wrong side of the jig lol It does get in the way of the saw I think slightly on the other side


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> All set to go with both jigs run down the lines perfectly that I can tell. checked all the way down. The one issue I have is that the 10" jig does not fit on the end so i set something else up I think its ready still but I want to know what you think for sure.


You cut the jig in the opposite direction, so non of my thinking works.









The fence should be about 5" from the edge?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You cut the jig in the opposite direction, so non of my thinking works.
> View attachment 693793
> 
> 
> ...


Shoot yeah sorry I will go fix it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Shoot yeah sorry I will go fix it


It looks I was wrong about that 1/8",you may have allow for the blade there too.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It looks I was wrong about that 1/8",you may have allow for the blade there too.


1/8th" looks slightly large to me for it here is how you wanted me to do it I think the 2x4 is alittle in the waybut I just cut it the first time right? Seems good now though for everything I can adjust the 1/8th to whatever you think or seems best think its good now though.
Also its cool each time I mess with it I am also getting more comftorable with the process so i honestly dont mind making all of these adjustments even though its a "waste" that is really learning not waste of time because it will be far less of a waste of time then if I mess up a cut again lol.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 1/8th" looks slightly large to me for it here is how you wanted me to do it I think the 2x4 is alittle in the waybut I just cut it the first time right? Seems good now though for everything I can adjust the 1/8th to whatever you think or seems best think its good now though.


You can just cut thru the top of the 2x4. 
Just start the cut and check the line and adjust the 1/8 as needed. 
Once you have the proper space find something you can use or just eye ball it. If you do them all the same we will be with in limits.
Don't forget that you are cutting the loose ends so jig and all will want to fall as you cut all the way.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You can just cut thru the top of the 2x4.
> Just start the cut and check the line and adjust the 1/8 as needed.
> Once you have the proper space find something you can use or just eye ball it. If you do them all the same we will be with in limits.
> Don't forget that you are cutting the loose ends so jig and all will want to fall as you cut all the way.


Thanks for the warning potentially could have not been paying attention usually good when using tools but still lol start getting somewhat less fresh this time of night. Will do super exited to start I was thinking a screw in the plywood but I dont want to split the straight edge ill think of something


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thanks for the warning potentially could have not been paying attention usually good when using tools but still lol start getting somewhat less fresh this time of night. Will do super exited to start I was thinking a screw in the plywood but I dont want to split the straight edge ill think of something


You don't have to cut it all off there on that one just go about 2" passed the other line and use the other jig to cut the end off.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't have to cut it all off there on that one just go about 2" passed the other line and use the other jig to cut the end off.
> View attachment 693799


I think that line in this picture might be a tiny bit off. My 10 inch jig lines up with everything else but for the last half of that cut it goes slightly off ending at like 1/16th off. it is even for the first half of the cut though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think that line in this picture might be a tiny bit off. My 10 inch jig lines up with everything else but for the last half of that cut it goes slightly off ending at like 1/16th off. it is even for the first half of the cut though.


You used the jig and then extended the line, trust the part where the jig was used for the line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You used the jig and then extended the line, trust the part where the jig was used for the line.


Awesome, that is what I was thinking I just again like to verify these things with you. I really feel like im starting to learn some of these basics I get again that its a veryyy basic level but still it makes me feel good. Really good to be honest


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You used the jig and then extended the line, trust the part where the jig was used for the line.


I honestly think I'm going to wait until the morning to make the cuts was a long day I know I have everything set right to get a good start though. I don't want to make a silly error although the first rig is still set up and i have all these cool jigs now. I don't think I can manage putting that stringer up to check level safely alone walking up the ladder tonight was quite a beast to manage when i was full energy lol.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Good morning/afternoon. Just got the first cuts done and they look really good. I only have done one side though.


Nealtw said:


> Add 1/4" to the top tread to 10 1/4 inches
> Use your square and draw this line to the bottom and make these two cuts.
> 
> View attachment 693378


Good morning/afternoon. Just got the first cuts done and they look really good I hit a big knot in the wood cause the blade to jump just a tiny bit. looks 100x better though jig helped so much. I only have done one side though. this cut on the end I am having a hard time getting the jigs lined of and steady because they are on the end. I thought you had told me to do something I cant find it though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Good morning/afternoon. Just got the first cuts done and they look really good. I only have done one side though.
> 
> Good morning/afternoon. Just got the first cuts done and they look really good jig helped so much. I only have done one side though. this cut on the end I am having a hard time getting the jigs lined of and steady because they are on the end. I thought you had told me to do something I cant find it though.


Post picture of which you are trying to cut


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Post picture of which you are trying to cut


sorry thought i did here they are


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> sorry thought i did here they are


Put 2 screws thru the 2x4 to the right of the cut. 
You will need 1/8" added to this cut.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put 2 screws thru the 2x4 to the right of the cut.
> You will need 1/8" added to this cut.
> View attachment 693845


Makes me glad I was going to add the 1/8th then lol. Starting to see some of these little things. Also was considering the screws their should I stop the cut and finish by hand or just cut right into the 2x4 again?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put 2 screws thru the 2x4 to the right of the cut.
> You will need 1/8" added to this cut.
> View attachment 693845


Here is the first cuts quite a difference id say


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Makes me glad I was going to add the 1/8th then lol. Starting to see some of these little things. Also was considering the screws their should I stop the cut and finish by hand or just cut right into the 2x4 again?


You should be cutting while standing on the other of the stinger .
So that jig will slide down
The arrow is pointing at the cut side of the jig?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put 2 screws thru the 2x4 to the right of the cut.
> You will need 1/8" added to this cut.
> View attachment 693845


Top and bottom are done and looking good 1/8th of an inch is the slightest bit to much so tiny adjustment like right on the edge of 1/8th line. cut right along the pencil mark looks really good not a perfect cut again but I mean 100x better looks really good to me and I am happy. just a few minor snags with the saw or my level of pressure etc.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Top and bottom are done and looking good 1/8th of an inch is the slightest bit to much so tiny adjustment like right on the edge of 1/8th line. cut right along the pencil mark looks really good not a perfect cut again but I mean 100x better looks really good to me and I am happy. just a few minor snags with the saw or my level of pressure etc.


The trick is to know your limitations and figure out what you have to do or build to get you to what you need. 
So now you are onto test fitting?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The trick is to know your limitations and figure out what you have to do or build to get you to what you need.
> So now you are onto test fitting?


Yes sir. Before I do and im like 99.9% but the side I just cut where we measured off 1/4" is the top right?
I have many limitations and would love to do all of this by full free hand but scrap wood is where I can practice that not my beautiful Stringer boards haha. I really want to get more into work like this its so enjoyable and rewarding so many little nuances to learn. Im not always great at small details at all so it is a really good overall exercise for my mind.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir. Before I do and im like 99.9% but the side I just cut where we measured off 1/4" is the top right?
> I have many limitations and would love to do all of this by full free hand but scrap wood is where I can practice that not my beautiful Stringer boards haha. I really want to get more into work like this its so enjoyable and rewarding so many little nuances to learn. Im not always great at small details at all so it is a really good overall exercise for my mind.


The top flat should be be 10 1/4" we can live with it if it is 10"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The top flat should be be 10 1/4" we can live with it if it is 10"


Ok I will measure I cut along the added 1/4" though Getting ready to go put it up


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The top flat should be be 10 1/4" we can live with it if it is 10"


Indeed sir indeed I think we are good I still need your opinion though  awesome wow that was easier to get up this time its almost as if doing things properly makes your job easier haha. Top cut was also 10 1/4 on the dot


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Indeed sir indeed I think we are good I still need your opinion though  awesome wow that was easier to get up this time its almost as if doing things properly makes your job easier haha. Top cut was also 10 1/4 on the dot


I am happy with that. Set it back on the saw horses and give me a picture of the bottom there is one line we need to add.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am happy with that. Set it back on the saw horses and give me a picture of the bottom there is one line we need to add.


Awesome


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am happy with that. Set it back on the saw horses and give me a picture of the bottom there is one line we need to add.


The beast is back on the horse


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The beast is back on the horse


Picture of the bottom cuts so i can show you where we need a line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Picture of the bottom cuts so i can show you where we need a line.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

We have to lower it 1 1/2" to allow for the thickness of the treads. 
You can use a square or quick square from the other cut . 
I will do a plan for another more universal jig you can use for this and other cuts that will be a problem with the other jigs.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We have to lower it 1 1/2" to allow for the thickness of the treads.
> You can use a square or quick square from the other cut .
> I will do a plan for another more universal jig you can use for this and other cuts that will be a problem with the other jigs.
> View attachment 693864


Awesome, sounds good, I will be waiting anything I should do to prep besides measuring?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome, sounds good, I will be waiting anything I should do to prep besides measuring?


Just draw the line. 

Build another jig, but cut both sides in the same direction. So you have the 5" on one side and 1 1/2" on the other. 









No 2x4, just screw it down beside the line you want to cut. 
Use this for the line you just drew. 
And then we will talk about before you use it other places.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just draw the line.
> 
> Build another jig, but cut both sides in the same direction. So you have the 5" on one side and 1 1/2" on the other.
> View attachment 693866
> ...


Awesome ill get to it


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just draw the line.
> 
> Build another jig, but cut both sides in the same direction. So you have the 5" on one side and 1 1/2" on the other.
> View attachment 693866
> ...


I know im being complicated but its hard to cut the 1/4" wood straight can i do the same thing but add an extra inch and a half and use 2 pieces of that so I can have 2 factory edges?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I know im being complicated but its hard to cut the 1/4" wood straight can i do the same thing but add an extra inch and a half and use 2 pieces of that so I can have 2 factory edges?


You build it big and cut it so it is perfect with the saw cut, no factory edge needed.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You build it big and cut it so it is perfect with the saw cut, no factory edge needed.


Sorry I just mean the second image in this i dont know where all those other pictures came from... didnt add them the jig.jpg Just want to be 100% im getting my mind across. Cool can delete them after atleast.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry I just mean the second image in this i dont know where all those other pictures came from... didnt add them the jig.jpg Just want to be 100% im getting my mind across. Cool can delete them after atleast.


Oh I see, put 2 boards side by side with the factory edge facing both sides.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Oh I see, put 2 boards side by side with the factory edge facing both sides.


Ok cool im getting better but I know how little room for error I have for myself with the stairs.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Oh I see, put 2 boards side by side with the factory edge facing both sides.


Ok think I am all set I have it all lined up for the cut just havent made it yet.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok think I am all set I have it all lined up for the cut just havent made it yet.


Turn it around and use the fat side, use the skinny side only when you can't make the fat side work. 
It is easier to mess up with the skinny side. If you don't hold saw up and level you can get and angle in the cut.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Turn it around and use the fat side, use the skinny side only when you can't make the fat side work.
> It is easier to mess up with the skinny side. If you don't hold saw up and level you can get and angle in the cut.


awesome ill go do that


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Turn it around and use the fat side, use the skinny side only when you can't make the fat side work.
> It is easier to mess up with the skinny side. If you don't hold saw up and level you can get and angle in the cut.


Looks good


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Looks good


nice cuts now. 
So set up the 10" jig for the first cut on the treads and show me a picture.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> nice cuts now.
> So set up the 10" jig for the first cut on the treads and show me a picture.


Feels good lol I know its the mostly jig but still
Edit: i havent forgotten to add the stop screws after I carefully watch the cut for each jig either. Although reminder is always good ahah


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Feels good lol I know its the mostly jig but still
> Edit: i havent forgotten to add the stop screws after I carefully watch the cut for each jig either. Although reminder is always good ahah


Yes you need a good healthy mark where to stop. 
And don't for get the 1/8" on this jig?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes you need a good healthy mark where to stop.
> And don't for get the 1/8" on this jig?
> View attachment 693916


Yes sir the angle on that picture just does not show it sorry.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir the angle on that picture just does not show it sorry.


Then you are good to go. 
Plan on doing all the 10" cuts first and then do the others. Less thinking that way.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then you are good to go.
> Plan on doing all the 10" cuts first and then do the others. Less thinking that way.


Sounds good I will let you know if anything comes up or when I finish. Thnk you


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then you are good to go.
> Plan on doing all the 10" cuts first and then do the others. Less thinking that way.


I started the cut and it is just the tiniest bit off of the line eyeing with a tape measure looks like 1/32 or less is that in room for error or should I try and make that adjustment. Just weighing between changing and the potential to overdo it lol.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I started the cut and it is just the tiniest bit off of the line eyeing with a tape measure looks like 1/32 or less is that in room for error or should I try and make that adjustment. Just weighing between changing and the potential to overdo it lol.


That little is fine, make them all the same.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That little is fine, make them all the same.


ok so all of them just like that cool. ready to roll


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That little is fine, make them all the same.


So i just finished the 10 inch cuts. However I messed up. A really big knot near the end if the first cut i just push to hard. It cut past the line. Everything else is good I just dont know how this effects it. Figured I would practice and roll with it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So i just finished the 10 inch cuts. However I messed up. A really big knot near the end if the first cut i just push to hard. It cut past the line. Everything else is good I just dont know how this effects it. Figured I would practice and roll with it.


we won't tell anyone, it will be our secret.  If it was more in the middle i might be more excited about it.
Let's see the set up with the other jig.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> we won't tell anyone, it will be our secret.  If it was more in the middle i might be more excited about it.
> Let's see the set up with the other jig.





Nealtw said:


> we won't tell anyone, it will be our secret.  If it was more in the middle i might be more excited about it.
> Let's see the set up with the other jig.


Haha sounds good to me long as its all good Im glad its not as catastrophic as i thought. Getting ready to do the next


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> we won't tell anyone, it will be our secret.  If it was more in the middle i might be more excited about it.
> Let's see the set up with the other jig.


Jig is just a tiny bit off been struggling to adjust it I think its off enough to matter over all of the steps maybe I feel like it wasnt like this last night or this morning lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Jig is just a tiny bit off been struggling to adjust it I think its off enough to matter over all of the steps maybe I feel like it wasnt like this last night or this morning lol


I want to see?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I want to see?


it was pulling off the line like 1/32" maybe slightly more near the top of triangle I made the adjustments before I saw your last message it seems to be right on now
Edit: i skipped some so i had to adjust the wood fewer times getting back to them lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> it was pulling off the line like 1/32" near the top of triangle I made the adjustments before I saw your last message it seems to be right on now


Close enough, don't forget to stop and put the screw in.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Close enough, don't forget to stop and put the screw in.


Yes sir, that is number one on my mind right now  lol really really dont want to do that again


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Close enough, don't forget to stop and put the screw in.


Think its looking pretty good quick break and question all those hand cuts are tedious this time of night haha but so satisfying. I end up with a small trianglw of wood at the end usually just chisel it down?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Think its looking pretty good quick break and question all those hand cuts are tedious this time of night haha but so satisfying. I end up with a small trianglw of wood at the end usually just chisel it down?


The corners of a 2x6 is rounded, check with a block of 2x4, 2x6 or one of those waste triangles and see if you have enough cleaned out of the corner.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The corners of a 2x6 is rounded, check with a block of 2x4, 2x6 or one of those waste triangles and see if you have enough cleaned out of the corner.


One done pretty excited haha


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> One done pretty excited haha


Crown the next one the lay this on top , line it all up and put 2 screw in it and trace it out.
we will use the same one to trace out the other 2.
Make sure you keep the same side up, the jigs won't work on the other side.
Then you can use the 3rd jig for the ends where the gigs are hard to use .
Remember the 1/32" added, so we don't want to do that again, so you have to make sure you are always just taking lines off. Then it will be the same as the pattern one.

We use the pattern so if there is a little mistake in one, they will all be the same, and now you have a better feel about setting up jigs and cutting.

Leave that first rejected one till last.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Crown the next one the lay this on top , line it all up and put 2 screw in it and trace it out.
> we will use the same one to trace out the other 2.
> Then you can use the 3 jig for the ends where the gigs are hard to use .
> Remember the 1/32" added, so we don't want to do that again, so you have to make sure you are always just taking lines off. Then it will be the same as the pattern one.
> ...


I really appreciate it. I got more comfortable each time a hard part is not getting cocky and moving to quickly Glad you mentioned the 1/32 for that I wouldnt have thought to cut it out after tracing to keep it up.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I really appreciate it. I got more comfortable each time a hard part is not getting cocky and moving to quickly Glad you mentioned the 1/32 for that I wouldnt have thought to cut it out after tracing to keep it up.


You don't want to do that any more or they will get bigger, you need to cut the line so what ever just a little less than the 1/8 or what ever you were using.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't want to do that any more or they will get bigger, you need to cut the line so what ever just a little less than the 1/8 or what ever you were using.


Ive got it down pretty good with the speed square i think dont think it will be a problem to get it right on this time around. I wont get ahead of myself but really difference between start and finish was quite substantial.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ive got it down pretty good with the speed square i think dont think it will be a problem to get it right on this time around. I wont get ahead of myself but really difference between start and finish was quite substantial.


I think you should be able to do the next one, just take your time and think about you are doing. 
The last one will be more tricky with 2 set of lines, maybe a different colour pencil.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think you should be able to do the next one, just take your time and think about you are doing.
> The last one will be more tricky with 2 set of lines, maybe a different colour pencil.


Yes sir I really need to make sure i dont get to cocky. I will absolutely and will let you know how it is going in the morning. Test at 11 for class but all day after working. can I erase them? the eraser on the back can atleast fade it pretty well Otherwise I will pick up different pencil


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir I really need to make sure i dont get to cocky. I will absolutely and will let you know how it is going in the morning. Test at 11 for class but all day after working. can I erase them? the eraser on the back can atleast fade it pretty well Otherwise I will pick up different pencil


I think the lines will come down a little so if you were to start with the 10 in jig and just double check, they would be correctable and then when you did the 7" the first cut would be hint hard to miss.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think the lines will come down a little so if you were to start with the 10 in jig and just double check, they would be correctable and then when you did the 7" the first cut would be hint hard to miss.


Getting started now just finished my test


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Getting started now just finished my test


We proved the pattern, no need to test the rest.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We proved the pattern, no need to test the rest.


Perfect line up on the proper side of the crown aka the hump screw down trace and cut? Then let you know when Im at the busted up one?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We proved the pattern, no need to test the rest.


cutting now I messed up drawring the board backwrods took forever to figure out why the jigs would fit. Glad i didnt adjust them sorry. Well on track again.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We proved the pattern, no need to test the rest.


Its going well cuts seem like they are good I ran into one little thing though Its hard to see but this line is off the jig some.between 1/6th 1/8th by the top of the triangle as to where the line is on the jig should i use the universal jig for this cut trusting the line or trust the jig?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its going well cuts seem like they are good I ran into one little thing though Its hard to see but this line is off the jig some.between 1/6th 1/8th by the top of the triangle as to where the line is on the jig should i use the universal jig for this cut trusting the line or trust the jig?


Check the 7 11/32 line and see if that makes sense with this line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Check the 7 11/32 line and see if that makes sense with this line.


Alright I think its good. Overall it is the tiniest bit larger then the original jig we used to draw the first stringer. I flared out the pencil line a tiny bit at the tip of the triangle I think and also with the tiny extra bit we added not cutting 100% down the line. the 7 11/32 line is right on though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Alright I think its good. Overall it is the tiniest bit larger then the original jig we used to draw the first stringer. I flared out the pencil line a tiny bit at the tip of the triangle I think and also with the tiny extra bit we added not cutting 100% down the line. the 7 11/32 line is right on though


Some time you just have take another look and make sure. Sounds like you are winning.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Some time you just have take another look and make sure. Sounds like you are winning.


I think it is coming clean lol other then an upside down board running me around for an hour haha


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think it is coming clean lol other then an upside down board running me around for an hour haha


I think I mentioned that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think I mentioned that.


Honestly just so much readying with studying for my test lol mind was kind of "numb" this morning. Im positive you did. Kind of funny how such a small thing puts you so off. Also I am running into the same issue with the 10 inch jig on some of my final cuts. the drawing jig fits well in them though all of the measure 7 11/32 and I am comfortable with the universal jig. Kind of curious what is putting the 10 inch jig off
Edit: I think it was good to make that mistake though. Really made me break everything down step by step myself to see what went wrong even though it was such a small thing.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think I mentioned that.


Not 100% whats going on it doesnt look like the 1/4" straight edge on the rig moved but the blade is getting stuck now and its cutting into the ply wood some which means it is cut into the none junk wood. Nervous about continuing until i fifure out why. I thought the blade might have tilted some but I added a 2x4 next to the jig to make a flat platform. I havent done much since my last message 1 1/2 cuts hope its not to off.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Not 100% whats going on it doesnt look like the 1/4" straight edge on the rig moved but the blade is getting stuck now and its cutting into the ply wood some which means it is cut into the none junk wood. Nervous about continuing until i fifure out why. I thought the blade might have tilted some but I added a 2x4 next to the jig to make a flat platform. I havent done much since my last message 1 1/2 cuts hope its not to off.


Did the motor slip down and is now cutting deeper?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did the motor slip down and is now cutting deeper?


possible I will check. I had no issue using the 7 11/32 rig to make the next cut though. It skipped a tiny bit but not much. Going to check now though here is one of the bad cuts I wanted to look at it


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did the motor slip down and is now cutting deeper?


It did slip down Is my jig still ok with the rough edges? the straight edge 1/4" is still good


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> possible I will check. I had no issue using the 7 11/32 rig to make the next cut though. It skipped a tiny bit but not much. Going to check now though here is one of the bad cuts I wanted to look at it


Lost me, why are you using this jig?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> It did slip down Is my jig still ok with the rough edges? the straight edge 1/4" is still good


If you were cutting with one of the bigger jigs, the saw may have just wandered away from the fence or you had a wood chip or sawdust between the saw and the fence. 
Carry on and finish it and then compare it to the pattern stringer.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you were cutting with one of the bigger jigs, the saw may have just wandered away from the fence or you had a wood chip or sawdust between the saw and the fence.
> Carry on and finish it and then compare it to the pattern stringer.
> View attachment 694016


Just for that cut and the couple that are slightly off of the line with the 10" so the saaw had slipped down and I made one clean cut before it start sticking again. It looks like I have a chipped tooth would that cause it?
Edit: the 7 inch jig cuts right on but the 10 inch is off some of the lines maybe because of iregularities where the 2x4 meets the 2x12 edge Not sure why that would not put both off though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just for that cut and the couple that are slightly off of the line with the 10" so the saaw had slipped down and I made one clean cut before it start sticking again. It looks like I have a chipped tooth would that cause it?
> Edit: the 7 inch jig cuts right on but the 10 inch is off some of the lines maybe because of iregularities where the 2x4 meets the 2x12 edge Not sure why that would not put both off though.


It is more likely the line that is off a little, the angle of the pencil.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It is more likely the line that is off a little, the angle of the pencil.


Do i need to replace this blade? it chipped on atleast one tooth


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Do i need to replace this blade? it chipped on atleast one tooth


No, it will be fine and the jigs are blade specific, the next blade may not be the same width.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No, it will be fine and the jigs are blade specific, the next blade may not be the same width.


didnt really realize the blades could change honestly I remember you mentioning that but didnt really process it My blade 


Nealtw said:


> No, it will be fine and the jigs are blade specific, the next blade may not be the same width.


My blade is loose apparently guessing that is the main issue. Noticed the bolt just spinning around the blade faster.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> didnt really realize the blades could change honestly I remember you mentioning that but didnt really process it My blade
> 
> My blade is loose apparently guessing that is the main issue. Noticed the bolt just spinning around the blade faster.


That would do it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That would do it.


Just finished the cut and attempting to line up. I think its off a tiny bit =/ Most of it is flush but the bottom is not 100% and I am posting a few pictures of sections that are also off. Maybe I just dont have it lined up right but I am pretty sure its off atleast some in these spots. Not surprisingly


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just finished the cut and attempting to line up. I think its off a tiny bit =/ Most of it is flush but the bottom is not 100% and I am posting a few pictures of sections that are also off. Maybe I just dont have it lined up right but I am pretty sure its off atleast some in these spots.


So more care has to be taken drawing lines 
Are ther back sides not lined up? 









We will see what they look like when you have 3 cut and then just them 
Do you think it would be better to use the square and mark it out like the first one.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So more care has to be taken drawing lines
> Are ther back sides not lined up?
> View attachment 694033
> 
> ...


I still have the jig set up for the square so it might be better to cut that way I thought I was being careful drawing the lines honestly. I just readjusted though and its fitting better I stil have some areas slightly off mostly where I was having trouble with my saw earlier. Looks like I mostly under cut though so I cn almost certainly adjust with the jig. The back wasnt fully lined up and a piece of wood chipped off of that corner that looks really bad in the post above. Its not as drastic as it appears.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I still have the jig set up for the square so it might be better to cut that way I thought I was being careful drawing the lines honestly. I just readjusted though and its fitting better I stil have some areas slightly off mostly where I was having trouble with my saw earlier. Looks like I mostly under cut though so I cn almost certainly adjust with the jig. The back wasnt fully lined up and a piece of wood chipped off of that corner that looks really bad in the post above. Its not as drastic as it appears.


 I would use the pattern one all lined up so you can see how it fits and mark the bottom then go back to the square so you get it started right. You only have about 1" to play with. You may want a red pencil. It will be confusing enough.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would use the pattern one all lined up so you can see how it fits and mark the bottom then go back to the square so you get it started right. You only have about 1" to play with. You may want a red pencil. It will be confusing enough.


Sorry thought I posted photos of it readjusted I will try my best with those things. Its not letting me post photos for some reason


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would use the pattern one all lined up so you can see how it fits and mark the bottom then go back to the square so you get it started right. You only have about 1" to play with. You may want a red pencil. It will be confusing enough.
> Here they are got it. So these are the sections where things are off everyhing else is pretty much lined up now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> sorry no photos appearing when I try and post for some reason.


These are the sections slightly off everything else is good now i think. Also In img_1086 the back is line up but a piece of wood chipped off from the saw So only that cut is slightly off I think


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> These are the sections slightly off everything else is good now i think. Also In img_1086 the back is line up but a piece of wood chipped off from the saw So only that cut is slightly off I think





Nealtw said:


> I think I mentioned that.


Honestly not sure whats going on with this. I need to clean up those last couple cuts but Im not sure what to do about the end. Its 99% line up until I get to the last 3 treads and the bottom. almost seems like the board has curved. The crown didnt look very significant though I had it line up well when I screwed it in before i started drawing


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Honestly not sure whats going on with this. I need to clean up those last couple cuts but Im not sure what to do about the end. Its 99% line up until I get to the last 3 treads and the bottom. almost seems like the board has curved. The crown didnt look very significant though I had it line up well when I screwed it in before i started drawing


They are drying out and they do bend so they are likely still okay.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> They are drying out and they do bend so they are likely still okay.


I think the bottom cut is good I think i need to adjust where those 3 treads are though I made some cuts slightly off the lines when the saw blade was loose its in scrap wood mostly though so just gotta reset the jig and run it carefull right? makes me feel better that id didnt mess it up to badly. I was quite careful tracing the lines but my cuts on the first thing are not all 100% flat 99% but not 100% some little saw jumps here and there getting better though thank you.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think the bottom cut is good I think i need to adjust where those 3 treads are though I made some cuts slightly off the lines when the saw blade was loose its in scrap wood mostly though so just gotta reset the jig and run it carefull right? makes me feel better that id didnt mess it up to badly. I was quite careful tracing the lines but my cuts on the first thing are not all 100% flat 99% but not 100% some little saw jumps here and there getting better though thank you.


So when you have 3 cut out you lay them all together and see what is wrong to match them all up. 
We have some room for errors but we decide what is acceptable after they are cut.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So when you have 3 cut out you lay them all together and see what is wrong to match them all up.
> We have some room for errors but we decide what is acceptable after they are cut.


So i just got through the same way on the 3rd piece verryyyyy veryy carefully and then double check each line with the drawing jig? I'm much happier with how they line up this morning i cn visibly see 2 treads off of the line though the 3rd only slightly. Thank you as always.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So i just got through the same way on the 3rd piece verryyyyy veryy carefully and then double check each line with the drawing jig? I'm much happier with how they line up this morning i cn visibly see 2 treads off of the line though the 3rd only slightly. Thank you as always.


But that picture is of 2 boards, no judgment of 2 board. 
measure the 7 11/32 of all the risers, are any wrong. Don't be cutting or trimming anything yet.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> But that picture is of 2 boards, no judgment of 2 board.
> measure the 7 11/32 of all the risers, are any wrong. Don't be cutting or trimming anything yet.


Ok so I just meticulously measured each tread. All of them seem to be right where they need to be except 2 the corner is cut high on both of them which is what is causing it i think so if i trim down on the right angle should be good.
Edit: one is reading close to a 7 1/2" in the high lip but the lip is the difference I believe or really close to it. the other is slightly less and again the lip seems to fit the difference.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok so I just meticulously measured each tread. All of them seem to be right where they need to be except 2 the corner is cut high on both of them which is what is causing it i think so if i trim down on the right angle should be good.
> Edit: one is reading close to a 7 1/2" in the high lip but the lip is the difference I believe or really close to it. the other is slightly less and again the lip seems to fit the difference.


You really have to understand, If you change one now it effects that one and the one above it and the one below it. 
We may have to trim it but not yet. We judge them when you have all three. Then I will ask the questions and explain.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You really have to understand, If you change one now it effects that one and the one above it and the one below it.
> We may have to trim it but not yet. We judge them when you have all three. Then I will ask the questions and explain.


Sorry I get carried away sometimes and over excited honestly. Let me slow my roll. Am I ready to start cutting the 3rd I I know I need to be extremely careful with it. So I use the original to trace it and then I go back through with the drawing jig to check the lines for 7 11/32 then I can begin cutting again.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry I get carried away sometimes and over excited honestly. Let me slow my roll. Am I ready to start cutting the 3rd I I know I need to be extremely careful with it.


I use the original to trace this one s


Nealtw said:


> You really have to understand, If you change one now it effects that one and the one above it and the one below it.
> We may have to trim it but not yet. We judge them when you have all three. Then I will ask the questions and explain.


Im trying to get eveyrthing line up right but realize on this one it might not be fully possible Mostly is lined up but defintely some issue with the top part in particular. it appears part of it is cut past where the other 2 tops line up.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I use the original to trace this one s
> 
> Im trying to get eveyrthing line up right but realize on this one it might not be fully possible Mostly is lined up but defintely some issue with the top part in particular. it appears part of it is cut past where the other 2 tops line up.


you should be able to slide it down to the bottom and get all new lines going up.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> you should be able to slide it down to the bottom and get all new lines going up.


Awesome looks good you mean like this? its lined up better then the pictures look idk why. I have room on the top and bottom to clean those cuts up now


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome looks good you mean like this? its lined up better then the pictures look idk why. I have room on the top and bottom to clean those cuts up now


Yes, Like that, It just gives you enough to save that board?
Then when you cut it you really have to have your head in the game so you don't cut the wrong lines.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, Like that, It just gives you enough to save that board?
> Then when you cut it you really have to have your head in the game so you don't cut the wrong lines.


Awesome.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, Like that, It just gives you enough to save that board?
> Then when you cut it you really have to have your head in the game so you don't cut the wrong lines.


alright its looking good took me awhile to feel it was entirely lined up as best it could be but I think its nice now good lines and i have arrows showing me the proper cut on each more posting cause i am curious about the step down of the old line. It starts big and by the end it was nothing. Does that mean my first lines were really off?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> alright its looking good took me awhile to feel it was entirely lined up as best it could be but I think its nice now good lines and i have arrows showing me the proper cut on each more posting cause i am curious about the step down of the old line. It starts big and by the end it was nothing. Does that mean my first lines were really off?


As hard as we try there is always something. but the new lines are a match with the pattern and now that is what counts.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> As hard as we try there is always something. but the new lines are a match with the pattern and now that is what counts.


I was just curious thank you.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> As hard as we try there is always something. but the new lines are a match with the pattern and now that is what counts.


I think it looks pretty good not perfect and I am tired honestly I didnt cut the 2 ends that need the universal jig. Ill do that first thing in the morning I went hrough meticulously and think I took a step up with the circular saw. I have the feel for it guiding and pulling itself down pretty well in that nice straight line without forcing things


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> As hard as we try there is always something. but the new lines are a match with the pattern and now that is what counts.


Making the 2 last cuts and doing a comparison


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> But that picture is of 2 boards, no judgment of 2 board.
> measure the 7 11/32 of all the risers, are any wrong. Don't be cutting or trimming anything yet.


All 3 finished with minor discrepancies top shifted slightly when I screw in but top and bottom line up. I had measured 2 treads on the 2nd stringer near the bottom at around 7 1/2" slightly less but doesnt seem to be showing much Everything else seems to be very very close to 7 11/32. I also think some of the minor differences is warping


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> All 3 finished with minor discrepancies top shifted slightly when I screw in but top and bottom line up. I had measured 2 treads on the 2nd stringer near the bottom at around 7 1/2" slightly less but doesnt seem to be showing much Everything else seems to be very very close to 7 11/32. I also think some of the minor differences is warping


I want to investigate the 7 1/2 can the measure the one above and below that?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I want to investigate the 7 1/2 can the measure the one above and below that?


Yes sir. It appears that I angled the cut at the start of the 10" cut when the blade was loose. for each of these areas. They are right next to each other. I am going to get some photos now


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I want to investigate the 7 1/2 can the measure the one above and below that?


Ok so I have a series of 4 treads in a row are slightly off. the first one measures at 7 13-14/32 the next is 7 15/32 the next is slightly closer to 7 1/2" then the 4th one is 7 12-13/32


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok so I have a series of 4 treads in a row are slightly off. the first one measures at 7 13-14/32 the next is 7 15/32 the next is slightly closer to 7 1/2" then the 4th one is 7 12-13/32


You have 15 tread cuts the 10" ones count them from the bottom what numbers are these bad ones? 
This all on one board?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You have 15 tread cuts the 10" ones count them from the bottom what numbers are these bad ones?
> This all on one board?


All on one board I will go count


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> All on one board I will go count


So the board count is 10 to 13 and the other boards are good including in those spots.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So the board count is 10 to 13 and the other boards are good including in those spots.


Measure these points, are they all the same? Or really close?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure these points, are they all the same? Or really close?
> View attachment 694226


From what I am reading they all seem to be really close the ones in that section might be slightly off but its all measuring right around 12 1/2 inches


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> From what I am reading they all seem to be really close the ones in that section might be slightly off but its all measuring right around 12 1/2 inches


So we want this stringer to be in the middle and when you install the treads you will leave the screws out of this one and you will go below and add a 2x4 to the side like you old stairs have


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So we want this stringer to be in the middle and when you install the treads you will leave the screws out of this one and you will go below and add a 2x4 to the side like you old stairs have
> View attachment 694232


So we will just be lifting those slightly awesome. I am very excited


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So we will just be lifting those slightly awesome. I am very excited


I am looking for a certain picture, back in a few.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am looking for a certain picture, back in a few.


Thank you I appreciate it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you I appreciate it


We want
1. a level line at 8 27/32" from the top of the deck boards.
2. measure from house to the post.
3. a picture of the old stringers in relation to that new line..


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We want
> 1. a level line at 8 27/32" from the top of the deck boards.
> 2. measure from house to the post.
> 3. a picture of the old stringers in relation to that new line..
> ...


ok 
so the measurement is 33 15/16th + 3 6 /16th = 37 5/16th


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> ok
> so the measurement is 33 15/16th + 3 6 /16th = 37 5/16th


I was hoping we could put the stringers up, but that won't work. 
So now you can pre cut the treads 
You can re use the 10" jig for that just change the 2x4 to square to the cut. 
Save the 7" jig, it is what you will need for railings. 
2x6s are not exactly square on the ends or exactly 12 ft long. 
To make sure we get 4 out of a 12 ft we cut them a little short like 35 3/4" 
You have to come up with a plans so you are cutting the right side of the line so you don't loose the 1/8" saw cut. 
If you square one end you may want to flip the board end for end and the measure the length.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I was hoping we could put the stringers up, but that won't work.
> So now you can pre cut the treads
> You can re use the 10" jig for that just change the 2x4 to square to the cut.
> Save the 7" jig, it is what you will need for railings.
> ...


Thought I liked Getting it all set up


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I was hoping we could put the stringers up, but that won't work.
> So now you can pre cut the treads
> You can re use the 10" jig for that just change the 2x4 to square to the cut.
> Save the 7" jig, it is what you will need for railings.
> ...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> THey seem to typically be an inch or 2 over 12 feet


Yes check them for square ends, bonus if each have one end is square on each of them .
Then you need a plan for how you will set them for cutting because after each cut they are 3 ft shorter.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Set 2 2x4s on the sawhorses and cut some 2x4 blocks about 5 maybe so they are like this. 








Then set the 2x6 up with a square end to the left. 








measure and mark from the left. 









Set up your jig and cut there. 









For the short blocks you can just use some of the waste triangles from the stringers.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes check them for square ends, bonus if each have one end is square on each of them .
> Then you need a plan for how you will set them for cutting because after each cut they are 3 ft shorter.


Im struggling some with this honestly. I feel like I am missing something obvious. One big thing is struggling to keep the wood from breaking away on the last corner. i try and hold it up but its Not coming out perfectly. My first 4 are also varying in length. I tried to compensate. Might just take a few trys to get it I guess.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Set 2 2x4s on the sawhorses and cut some 2x4 blocks about 5 maybe so they are like this.
> View attachment 694257
> 
> Then set the 2x6 up with a square end to the left.
> ...


You can ignore my last message I missed this one.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Set 2 2x4s on the sawhorses and cut some 2x4 blocks about 5 maybe so they are like this.
> View attachment 694257
> 
> Then set the 2x6 up with a square end to the left.
> ...


 I really lke this set up cool stuff. I might need to get some more 2x4 tomorrow to make it viable though going to check now.Probably will need another 2x6 also I butchered 2 of my cuts. As always I cant express how much I appreciate it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I really lke this set up cool stuff. I might need to get some more 2x4 tomorrow to make it viable though going to check now.Probably will need another 2x6 also I butchered 2 of my cuts. As always I cant express how much I appreciate it.


You have enough for 32 pieces and you need 30, so you do have 2 spares. 
You could use stringers instead of 2x4 to lay on the saw horses with the blocks on top you will not cut thru that deep.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You have enough for 32 pieces and you need 30, so you do have 2 spares.
> You could use stringers instead of 2x4 to lay on the saw horses with the blocks on top you will not cut thru that deep.


Ok I will try and give that a go setting it up and send you a picture before I start cutting again and very nice I might be good then lol.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok I will try and give that a go setting it up and send you a picture before I start cutting again and very nice I might be good then lol.





Nealtw said:


> You have enough for 32 pieces and you need 30, so you do have 2 spares.
> You could use stringers instead of 2x4 to lay on the saw horses with the blocks on top you will not cut thru that deep.


Here we go. I havent screwed anything down


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Here we go. I havent screwed anything down


You don't need to screw them down, you just need block under the 2x6 so it is supported good on both sides of the cut, so nothing is falling. So 2 blocks supporting each side of the cut .


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't need to screw them down, you just need block under the 2x6 so it is supported good on both sides of the cut, so nothing is falling. So 2 blocks supporting each side of the cut .


 awesome. this makes it alot easier thank you very much should have all of the treads done tonight ready to roll in the morning.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> awesome. this makes it alot easier thank you very much should have all of the treads done tonight ready to roll in the morning.


Ive gotten half of them done well. More importantly I got the measuring down took little fiddling to get it just right but measure 5 times cut once as they say lol. Thats it right? Thanks as always I will ahve them finished before I message here in the morning.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't need to screw them down, you just need block under the 2x6 so it is supported good on both sides of the cut, so nothing is falling. So 2 blocks supporting each side of the cut .


Smooth start to the day. We are looking good 
Edit: I forgot I used one of my boards for the tread earlier for something. that with the 2 I messed up means im running over to get another board now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You don't need to screw them down, you just need block under the 2x6 so it is supported good on both sides of the cut, so nothing is falling. So 2 blocks supporting each side of the cut .


Am I ready to start taking things down I believe I am set with the treads


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Am I ready to start taking things down I believe I am set with the treads


I am doubt full that this can be done in a day, do you have a plan for getting in. 
Or will it be take it down one day and put it up the next?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am doubt full that this can be done in a day, do you have a plan for getting in.
> Or will it be take it down one day and put it up the next?


I have a big ladder I was going to get in and out with, If i get to that point and it doesnt seem safe I have a really cheap inn down the street I can stay at, go camping or sleep in the garage or my car. No issue as far as that is concerned.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have a big ladder I was going to get in and out with, If i get to that point and it doesnt seem safe I have a really cheap inn down the street I can stay at, go camping or sleep in the garage or my car. No issue as far as that is concerned.


So you start at the top and remove treads? Is the railing still there? It has to go.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So you start at the top and remove treads? Is the railing still there? It has to go.


Railing is up still pickets are gone I need to remove the railing all the way around the top platform as well but I was thinking I might wait on that until after?
Ill get started ill post updates and come check if you post anything that you think of Im guessing it will take a couple hours atleast


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Railing is up still pickets are gone I need to remove the railing all the way around the top platform as well but I was thinking I might wait on that until after?
> Ill get started ill post updates and come check if you post anything that you think of Im guessing it will take a couple hours atleast


Take the stair railing down.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So you start at the top and remove treads? Is the railing still there? It has to go.


Railing is up still pickets are gone I need to remove the railing all the way around the top platform as well but I was thinking I might wait on that


Nealtw said:


> So you start at the top and remove treads? Is the railing still there? It has to go.


Alot of the screws are bad are stripped already so somewhat hard tto get some out demo saw works well though


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take the stair railing down.


Treads and railings down I had taken the railings down already lol not sure why i forgot about it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Treads and railings down I had taken the railings down already lol not sure why i forgot about it.


So now the fun part they are going to be heavy, do you have a plan?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So now the fun part they are going to be heavy, do you have a plan?


to tke the stringers down? I honestly am not sure I could cut them into sections but I would need something to hold them up while I do that. That stringer attached to the wall is going to rip off in pieces anyway. Its crazy rotten honestly. Looks like it was extremely unsafe to walk on.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So now the fun part they are going to be heavy, do you have a plan?


One of the stringers the outside is actually 2 pieces already they replaced part of the stairs.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> One of the stringers the outside is actually 2 pieces already they replaced part of the stairs.


Do you have a small multi saw like this.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> to tke the stringers down? I honestly am not sure I could cut them into sections but I would need something to hold them up while I do that. That stringer attached to the wall is going to rip off in pieces anyway. Its crazy rotten honestly. Looks like it was extremely unsafe to walk on.


I


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a small multi saw like this.
> View attachment 694389


I dont have one of those. I just have a a reciprocating saw and the circular saw and my drill really


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a small multi saw like this.
> View attachment 694389


I have some good rope rated for 244 pounds i could tie it at the top remove the bolts/cut and then lower them slowly to the ground but I also am just kind of winging it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have some good rope rated for 244 pounds i could tie it at the top remove the bolts/cut and then lower them slowly to the ground but I also am just kind of winging it


I was thinking we might be able to put up new first but cutting away just enough to put the new stringers in.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a small multi saw like this.
> View attachment 694389


I could manage one of these if I need it and it will get alot of use down the line. Really at the beginning of building my tools up. I am not sure if I will beable to get that in town though tractor supply or the builder supply possibly could have one Otherwise its 40 minutes to lowes/acehardware


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I could manage one of these if I need it and it will get alot of use down the line. Really at the beginning of building my tools up. I am not sure if I will beable to get that in town though tractor supply or the builder supply possibly could have one Otherwise its 40 minutes to lowes/acehardware


The one against the wall, is it screwed to the wall, if yes may you could just cut it and remove the top foot or two with the skill saw, just remember to set the dept or just use the recip saw.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The one against the wall, is it screwed to the wall, if yes may you could just cut it and remove the top foot or two with the skill saw, just remember to set the dept or just use the recip saw.


It is screwed/ small bolts or anchors its also falling apart from rot. im pretty sure i can break the whole thing off of the anchors. That is how bad the rot is. Even worse then I though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> It is screwed/ small bolts or anchors its also falling apart from rot. im pretty sure i can break the whole thing off of the anchors. That is how bad the rot is. Even worse then I though.


It would saver with the new stairs to work from?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It would saver with the new stairs to work from?


I agree with that for sure I just think if i start taking pieces off the whole think might fall apart lol. its spreading out like a frayed rope almost if that description makes sense. The one attached to the wall is probably liek 5x more rotten I think they replaced the outside stringer but never bothered doing the one attached to the house.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I agree with that for sure I just think if i start taking pieces off the whole think might fall apart lol. its spreading out like a frayed rope almost if that description makes sense. The one attached to the wall is probably liek 5x more rotten I think they replaced the outside stringer but never bothered doing the one attached to the house.


Remove all the other junk left at the top from the top tread. So we can have a better look at just the stringers at the top.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Remove all the other junk left at the top from the top tread. So we can have a better look at just the stringers at the top.


ok I llget that offsorry my 93 year old neighbor came over hes helpful though honestly.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Remove all the other junk left at the top from the top tread. So we can have a better look at just the stringers at the top.


its so weak splinters when i do anything this part is probably the worst though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> its so weak splinters when i do anything this part is probably the worst though


If it is screwed to the block could you just cut it below the siding line. 








This block can go too.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If it is screwed to the block could you just cut it below the siding line.
> View attachment 694411
> 
> This block can go too.
> View attachment 694412


Ill take those off and give it a go


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ill take those off and give it a go


Show me a picture how the outer one is attached to the center post. Is that post set in concrete?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Show me a picture how the outer one is attached to the center post. Is that post set in concrete?


all of the posts are set in concrete except for one


Nealtw said:


> Show me a picture how the outer one is attached to the center post. Is that post set in concrete?


Here is what I have for you everything you asked for. the bottom of the stringer attached to the wall wasnt even attached to the wood at the bottom anymore and was loose and literally just ripped off so the bottom with no effort 5 feet of wall stringer are no longer attached. at the bottom and managing the top piece with a hatchet lol i cant manage with the reciprocating or skill saw up here


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> all of the posts are set in concrete except for one
> 
> Here is what I have for you everything you asked for. the bottom of the stringer attached to the wall wasnt even attached to the wood at the bottom anymore and was loose and literally just ripped off so the bottom with no effort 5 feet of wall stringer are no longer attached. at the bottom and managing the top piece with a hatchet lol i cant manage with the reciprocating or skill saw up here


Show me a picture how the outer one is attached to the center post. Is that post set in concrete?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Show me a picture how the outer one is attached to the center post. Is that post set in concrete?


sorry the pictures didnt send for some reason
Edit. The whole wall stringer is off it started move off the wall when i was cutting couple light yanks with a pry bar pulled it off of the anchors in 4 pieces. no problem.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> sorry the pictures didnt send for some reason
> Edit. The whole wall stringer is off it started move off the wall when i was cutting couple light yanks with a pry bar pulled it off of the anchors in 4 pieces. no problem.


I don't see how this one is attached to the post?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I don't see how this one is attached to the post?


Sorry. I will get the pictures. It is a punch of rusted out screws. That post I sent a picture of is loose in its concrete though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I don't see how this one is attached to the post?


Here they are I thought you meant the carriage bolts on the outside for some reason.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Here they are I thought you meant the carriage bolts on the outside for some reason.


Can you just pry them off the posts and let if fall in the middle?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Can you just pry them off the posts and let if fall in the middle?


Almost certainly Ill go give it a few trys. not sure ill be able to do it without ripping the post up though. Its not even set right in the concrete so would need to be replaced anyway


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Almost certainly Ill go give it a few trys. not sure ill be able to do it without ripping the post up though. Its not even set right in the concrete so would need to be replaced anyway


We won't need the post in the middle.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We won't need the post in the middle.


awesome it ripped out of the ground before i had the stringer out. Everything on the old steps is 100% demolish now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We won't need the post in the middle.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Good job. 
We need a 5" 2x4 block screwed flush with top of the line on the house side 








Then you are ready for that stringer. 
Then you will be ready for the stringer next to the post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good job.
> We need a 5" 2x4 block screwed flush with top of the line on the house side
> View attachment 694433
> 
> ...


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good job.
> We need a 5" 2x4 block screwed flush with top of the line on the house side
> View attachment 694433
> 
> ...


Awesome, and thank you sir. I get it as close to the house as possible right both upper blocks are off also now


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good job.
> We need a 5" 2x4 block screwed flush with top of the line on the house side
> View attachment 694433
> 
> ...


One confirmation is that the stringer with the couple bad cuts goes in the middle correct? I just read the post you sent me and i know its true I just still feel the need to ask. Post 651 on page 33


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> One confirmation is that the stringer with the couple bad cuts goes in the middle correct? I just read the post you sent me and i know its true I just still feel the need to ask. Post 651 on page 33


Yes that will be the easiest place to fix it. 
When you have the first one up measure the distance to the post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good job.
> We need a 5" 2x4 block screwed flush with top of the line on the house side
> View attachment 694433
> 
> ...


Sorry also just some clarification am i literally going all the way to the house or just the edge of the rim. The ledger pushes the rim out so there is an 1 1/2" gap


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes that will be the easiest place to fix it.
> When you have the first one up measure the distance to the post.


From the stringer to the post correct? Sorry I just want to make sure i get it right


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry also just some clarification am i literally going all the way to the house or just the edge of the rim. The ledger pushes the rim out so there is an 1 1/2" gap


The bottom will be I think 5 1/2" from the wall, we would like to be straight so what ever it needs to get close to 5 1/2" from the block wall at the top, If that makes sense.
What ever the block size 3 or more screws please.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The bottom will be I think 5 1/2" from the wall, we would like to be straight so what ever it needs to get close to 5 1/2" from the block wall at the top, If that makes sense.


Yes sir


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> From the stringer to the post correct? Sorry I just want to make sure i get it right


After you have the first stringer up measure the remaining space to the outer post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The bottom will be I think 5 1/2" from the wall, we would like to be straight so what ever it needs to get close to 5 1/2" from the block wall at the top, If that makes sense.





Nealtw said:


> The bottom will be I think 5 1/2" from the wall, we would like to be straight so what ever it needs to get close to 5 1/2" from the block wall at the top, If that makes sense.
> What ever the block size 3 or more screws please.


I have 3 inch 3s


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> After you have the first stringer up measure the remaining space to the outer post.


3" 9s sorry not 3s


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 3" 9s sorry not 3s


Doesn't make sense to me still?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Doesn't make sense to me still?


the nails are 3"x9 wood screws 9 is the size i guess my 2" woods screws are x8 and thinner. Am i screwing the stringer to the block and or the rim?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> the nails are 3"x9 wood screws 9 is the size i guess my 2" woods screws are x8 and thinner. Am i screwing the stringer to the block and or the rim?


Yes the bigger screws.Put the little ones away.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Doesn't make sense to me still?


29 15/16ths from stringer to post


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes the bigger screws.Put the little ones away.


I accidently bought them lol then i realized my "3 inch"(2 inch nails) arent holding anything together lol. Some dumbo moments for me in this lol


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes the bigger screws.Put the little ones away.


 26 9/16th + 3 6 16th = 29 15/16th sorry always better if i make sure i get those little fractions right this way


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 29 15/16ths from stringer to post


Take a picture of the screws thru the stringer into the block.
we will do the middle one next. And we need a 2x4 block at 14 1/4"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take a picture of the screws thru the stringer into the block.


I have only put one in until I was sure


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have only put one in until I was sure


Take picture, I want to draw on the picture for you.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take picture, I want to draw on the picture for you.
> 
> [/QUOTE


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take a picture of the screws thru the stringer into the block.
> we will do the middle one next. And we need a 2x4 block at 14 1/4"


5 inch 2x4 again?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 5 inch 2x4 again?


No, 14 1/4" block


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

2 more like that and 2 at a 45 degree angle going into that block.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 2 more like that and 2 at a 45 degree angle going into that block.
> View attachment 694436


alright thats all done and the 14 1/4 " piece of 2x4 is in


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> alright thats all done and the 14 1/4 " piece of 2x4 is in


You put it up against that stringer? Then you are ready for the center one, the one with bad cuts.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You put it up against that stringer? Then you are ready for the center one, the one with bad cuts.


yes sir awesome.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You put it up against that stringer? Then you are ready for the center one, the one with bad cuts.


alright that is up and i checked level shes on 100%


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> alright that is up and i checked level shes on 100%


So you stringer 2 with the some screw pattern then stringer 3 can be screwed to the post?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So you stringer 2 with the some screw pattern then stringer 3 can be screwed to the post?


Awesome am i adding any more 2x4? Going to do the stringer now


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome am i adding any more 2x4? Going to do the stringer now


After you have the stringer up you measure for the block you need between 2 and 3.
And then take a picture of one of them like before.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> After you have the stringer up you measure for the block you need between 2 and 3.
> And then take a picture of one of them like before.


Stringer is up ill get that now. Checked level and it is perfect. Getting dark now but I think we can manage. This one was slightly harder it wanted to slip some on the concrete. had some dust build up.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Stringer is up ill get that now. Checked level and it is perfect. Getting dark now but I think we can manage. This one was slightly harder it wanted to slip some on the concrete. had some dust build up.


so now you are adding a block between them?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> so now you are adding a block between them?


Yes, sir It's a very tight fit because of one screw that doesn't want to go in more. Its semi late to be pounding it in with the hammer but it will fit its just sitting to high right now


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The best layed plans


LearningTrades said:


> Yes, sir It's a very tight fit because of one screw that doesn't want to go in more. Its semi late to be pounding it in with the hammer but it will fit its just sitting to high right now


screw that in with 6 screws and then angled screws again on both sides thru this block into the stringer. 
Then we will have to talk about how to fix a mistake I made here. 
Tomorrow, you did good today.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The best layed plans
> 
> screw that in with 6 screws and then angled screws again on both sides thru this block into the stringer.
> Then we will have to talk about how to fix a mistake I made here.
> Tomorrow, you did good today.


Really appreciate that sir hope you have a good night Ill get that set . I have some corner hangers left is it worth it to stick any of those on the corners? not sure if that will be stronger or more stable then.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Really appreciate that sir hope you have a good night Ill get that set . I have some corner hangers left is it worth it to stick any of those on the corners? not sure if that will be stronger or more stable then.


No corners. But i do see a probem we will deal with.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No corners. But i do see a probem we will deal with.


Sounds good. Everything looks good to my inexperienced eye lol thank you again


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds good. Everything looks good to my inexperienced eye lol thank you again


This would not be a good place for a crack to happen 









So we can add a 2x6 block like this with lots of high and low screws. 
The one against the post and be more screws lower on the post and may not need this piece.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This would not be a good place for a crack to happen
> View attachment 694457
> 
> 
> ...


Awesome not bad at all we will get that done first thing. Some minor cracking on one or 2 of them I took half 1/3rd of the boards they had though and the best ones that my inexperienced eye could pick out. Ill get this done first thing. It wouldn't hurt to put this on each? I have an extra 6-8 feet of 2x6 or something and smaller pieces floating around


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## xyzpaintinggroup (Jan 10, 2022)

Replace the old one and create a new one from scratch. Make sure to drill carefully if you can or you can go with a professional.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This would not be a good place for a crack to happen
> View attachment 694457
> 
> 
> ...


getting ready to install blocks on each stringer now and the final block my mind says treads next but I dont want to get ahead of myself as is typical


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

xyzpaintinggroup said:


> Replace the old one and create a new one from scratch. Make sure to drill carefully if you can or you can go with a professional.


Just got the stringers in last night moving alone well =) great community to learn.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This would not be a good place for a crack to happen
> 
> 
> Nealtw said:
> ...


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just got the stringers in last night moving alone well =) great community to learn.


We want blocks between the stringers at the bottom the same measurement as the blocks on top. 
We will want to screw them down with tapcon screws. 
If you don't have the tapcons you can do that later but we want the blocks there.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

no tap


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We want blocks between the stringers at the bottom the same measurement as the blocks on top.
> We will want to screw them down with tapcon screws.
> If you don't have the tapcons you can do that later but we want the blocks there.


no tap con screws but I can


Nealtw said:


> We want blocks between the stringers at the bottom the same measurement as the blocks on top.
> We will want to screw them down with tapcon screws.
> If you don't have the tapcons you can do that later but we want the blocks there.


Just like What is against the rim joist? I dont have tapcon screw I will likely need to go to lowes to get some


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We want blocks between the stringers at the bottom the same measurement as the blocks on top.
> We will want to screw them down with tapcon screws.
> If you don't have the tapcons you can do that later but we want the blocks there.


can i put some regular screw in then replace them?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> can i put some regular screw in then replace them?


Tapcan screws go into concrete after you drill holes.
You can screw the blocks to the stringers with deck screws .
Just add fewer screws to the bottom tread as it will be removed for that work later.
After the bottom tread is in place we want to go up closer to the middle or as high as you can get to and add a tread
And make sure the distance between is the same and the space to the house is the same.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Tapcan screws go into concrete after you drill holes.
> You can screw the blocks to the stringers with deck screws .
> Just add fewer screws to the bottom tread as it will be removed for that work later.
> After the bottom tread is in place we want to go up closer to the middle or as high as you can get to and add a tread
> And make sure the distance between is the same and the space to the house is the same.


Ok i have the blocks in and am gettting ready to install the first tread does his seem good? and should i staagger the blocks so i can put screws in properly?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok i have the blocks in and am gettting ready to install the first tread does his seem good? and should i staagger the blocks so i can put screws in properly?


You have some corner backets you could use for that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You have some corner backets you could use for that.


Good point ill put them in line I will fix the stagger. the tread comes half way to the last stringer does that seem good?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Good point ill put them in line I will fix the stagger. the tread comes half way to the last stringer does that seem good?


The blocks lay down so you can screw them to the concrete. 
Line up the edge of the treads with the outside and leave a space at the house.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Tapcan screws go into concrete after you drill holes.
> You can screw the blocks to the stringers with deck screws .
> Just add fewer screws to the bottom tread as it will be removed for that work later.
> After the bottom tread is in place we want to go up closer to the middle or as high as you can get to and add a tread
> And make sure the distance between is the same and the space to the house is the same.


one top one bottom now for treads


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> one top one bottom now for treads


Half way up checking the distance between to keep everything straight.
And then fill it in.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Half way up checking the distance between to keep everything straight.
> And then fill it in.


Alright sir I think she looks good and I double checked measurements between treads. All of them are almost right on 7 11/32 small small small differences on those few i cut semi wrong. I dont actually notice much of a difference on those 2 treads though. I forgot to add the blocks


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Alright sir I think she looks good and I double checked measurements between treads. All of them are almost right on 7 11/32 small small small differences on those few i cut semi wrong. I dont actually notice much of a difference on those 2 treads though. I forgot to add the blocks


If they are all with in 1/4" that are fine. Just stand back and look at what you built.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If they are all with in 1/4" that are fine. Just stand back and look at what you built.


I feel really good sir. Honestly really good. I dont feel like I have accomplished many things that make me feel this proud. Well within 1/4" Thank you I really cant express how much it means. If you wouldnt like to send something I would like to put something into a charity you like or a local one around me cant afford a ton but I would like to do some. I also want to consider helping out with something called appalachian service projects where you volunteer to help with very low income in Appalachia(where I live)


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I feel really good sir. Honestly really good. I dont feel like I have accomplished many things that make me feel this proud. Well within 1/4" Thank you I really cant express how much it means. If you wouldnt like to send something I would like to put something into a charity you like or a local one around me cant afford a ton but I would like to do some. I also want to consider helping out with something called appalachian service projects where you volunteer to help with very low income in Appalachia(where I live)


Habitat for Humanity if you must. 
You had one newer looking posts is that usable for the railing? How long is it?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Habitat for Humanity if you must.
> You had one newer looking posts is that usable for the railing? How long is it?


I would prefer to it’s kind of beat up if almost rather buy new stuff just to be sure


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I would prefer to it’s kind of beat up if almost rather buy new stuff just to be sure


We have to discuss what the railing will be, pickets like you had? 
Do you have picture what the top of that rail looked like?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I think this is your picture?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think this is your picture?
> View attachment 694554


Yes sir I believe so sorry had a lot of running around


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir I believe so sorry had a lot of running around


I went back in my PMs and found that. Just now I tried again and now I am limited how far back I can go. So that was a one time deal. 
Can you measure the height of the post above the deck boards?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We have to discuss what the railing will be, pickets like you had?
> Do you have picture what the top of that rail looked like?


Sorry I'm getting everything for you. I had to run to lowes and walmart which always sucks. I will be making that donation tonight as soon as I settle down.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I went back in my PMs and found that. Just now I tried again and now I am limited how far back I can go. So that was a one time deal.
> Can you measure the height of the post above the deck boards?


33 1/2 and same pickets I was thinking cut the ugly tops of the post maybe they might be ripped up from the rails coming off.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I went back in my PMs and found that. Just now I tried again and now I am limited how far back I can go. So that was a one time deal.
> Can you measure the height of the post above the deck boards?


Really sorry again


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 33 1/2 and same pickets I was thinking cut the ugly tops of the post maybe they might be ripped up from the rails coming off.


Let's see the pictures of ugly?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Let's see the pictures of ugly?


here yah go the top one split when I was trying to get that railing off so i just cut the rail and left the little bit. the bottom post looks like its "ok" its also past the steps though by some


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> here yah go the top one split when I was trying to get that railing off so i just cut the rail and left the little bit. the bottom post looks like its "ok" its also past the steps though by some


Yup, that be ugly.
How is it connected to the house in the far corner?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Let's see the pictures of ugly?


habitat.cpnprints.com/(S(c51t4stbk3mr2wzsquwerfmk))/Ecard.aspx?itemnum=85678-85612-104679 
Your donation number is 3184903.
Your order confirmation number is 85678-85612. Not much in the scheme of things but I really do appreciate it and like that I can give back in some way to say thank you. Habitat for Humanity was a great choice and a group I wouldnt mind getting involved with.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yup, that be ugly.
> How is it connected to the house in the far corner?


I have a new post in the far corner we put in the current rail is literally shoddy nails straight through the siding I think
Edit: this post only extends to the bottom of the deck and is notched with a carriage bolt through


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have a new post in the far corner we put in the current rail is literally shoddy nails straight through the siding I think
> Edit: this post only extends to the bottom of the deck and is notched with a carriage bolt through


So that is new with the deck? Inside the ledger and inside the rim joist?


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So that is new with the deck? Inside the ledger and inside the rim joist?


Yes sir, notched over the rim on the inside


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir, notched over the rim on the inside


So the post are close to this? from above.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Yes sir that looks right


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So the post are close to this? from above.
> View attachment 694569


Yes sir that looks right


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir that looks right


Let me think about it.


----------



## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Let me think about it.


Sounds good my friend, thank you


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds good my friend, thank you


Did you straighten that far post yet or can we include that?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did you straighten that far post yet or can we include that?


Oops I knew I was forgetting something. Got caught up in the excitement of the stairs.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Oops I knew I was forgetting something. Got caught up in the excitement of the stairs.


Don't do it we may want to do something at the same time. 
Tomorrow, can you check the posts above the deck for plumb and in which direction they lean.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Don't do it we may want to do something at the same time.
> Tomorrow, can you check the posts above the deck for plumb and in which direction they lean.


Yes sir, sounds good. I will get that done I was looking at a post level the other day for like 8-10 maybe guessing it is worth it for the long term or maybe worth it to get a better one if I am going to get it? Not 100% sure the cheap level I have is bad at leveling so worth it to get 2 pretty good ones. Learning quick cheap tools are rarely worth it even in the mid term let alone long.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir, sounds good. I will get that done I was looking at a post level the other day for like 8-10 maybe guessing it is worth it for the long term or maybe worth it to get a better one if I am going to get it? Not 100% sure the cheap level I have is bad at leveling so worth it to get 2 pretty good ones. Learning quick cheap tools are rarely worth it even in the mid term let alone long.


When you want to check a level hold it against something not level or plumb and look at it, turn the level end for end, if it reads the same the level is good. 
Or hold it level or plumb against a plywood standing up and draw the level line and flip the level to check it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> When you want to check a level hold it against something not level or plumb and look at it, turn the level end for end, if it reads the same the level is good.
> Or hold it level or plumb against a plywood standing up and draw the level line and flip the level to check it.


Will levels go out of whack over time or if you drop it or something? ive been pretty careful with these 2 I am going to check my other one tomorrow curious haha. It wasn't reading what My other 2 did I will run this test tomorrow. While I am getting started.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Will levels go out of whack over time or if you drop it or something? ive been pretty careful with these 2 I am going to check my other one tomorrow curious haha. It wasn't reading what My other 2 did I will run this test tomorrow. While I am getting started.


Usually they can take a beating until you bend them or something or driver over them.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Usually they can take a beating until you bend them or something or driver over them.


Haha I could see my self driving over it =/ I am curious for sure though lol I will run the test as a little warm up lol.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Usually they can take a beating until you bend them or something or driver over them.


Heading to the transfer station to get all of this wood out before they close for the weekend at noon


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Usually they can take a beating until you bend them or something or driver over them.


back now Ill get those reading. Man lol uber exists out here but couldnt find a driver glad a nice farmer helped me out haha


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> back now Ill get those reading. Man lol uber exists out here but couldnt find a driver glad a nice farmer helped me out haha


Im not sure i am getting these right 


Nealtw said:


> When you want to check a level hold it against something not level or plumb and look at it, turn the level end for end, if it reads the same the level is good.
> Or hold it level or plumb against a plywood standing up and draw the level line and flip the level to check it.


I think this is what you mean. Man this Friday the 13th bug is getting me today lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im not sure i am getting these right
> 
> I think this is what you mean. Man this Friday the 13th bug is getting me today lol


Thinking and will be away for a few hours.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Im not sure i am getting these right
> 
> I think this is what you mean. Man this Friday the 13th bug is getting me today





Nealtw said:


> Thinking and will be away for a few hours.


Sounds good thank you sir


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Thinking and will be away for a few hours.


I need to head back to my families house tonight 4 hours away and taking a math test for my class tomorrow. I will be back Sunday still down to discuss what we will be moving forward doing when you have time though back in around 1130-12 tonight 4-5 hours


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I need to head back to my families house tonight 4 hours away and taking a math test for my class tomorrow. I will be back Sunday still down to discuss what we will be moving forward doing when you have time though back in around 1130-12 tonight 4-5 hours


Any thought of ever putting a roof over this deck?
Good luck with that test.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Any thought of ever putting a roof over this deck?
> Good luck with that test.


Thank you sir, I will try my best, school is honestly harder for me to learn. A roof would be really nice. I had thought of an awning or something because it gets sooo much sun. What kind of ideas did you have for that.. Man I got home late last night, I drove 20-30 miles in the wrong direction after getting gas lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you sir, I will try my best, school is honestly harder for me to learn. A roof would be really nice. I had thought of an awning or something because it gets sooo much sun. What kind of ideas did you have for that.. Man I got home late last night, I drove 20-30 miles in the wrong direction after getting gas lol


Not a suggestion.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you sir, I will try my best, school is honestly harder for me to learn. A roof would be really nice. I had thought of an awning or something because it gets sooo much sun. What kind of ideas did you have for that.. Man I got home late last night, I drove 20-30 miles in the wrong direction after getting gas lol


We can talk about that. 
If you remove screws in the deck boards around the old posts so you can put a long saw all blade between the deck boards and the joists and cut the posts down a joist level. 









Then match the height of the new posts and add 2x6s right down to the concrete. 









Then we can add the new posts with 2x4s between them and add pickets. 









Then put a 2x6 on flat on top. 









If that works for you we can move on and talk about the stair rail.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We can talk about that.
> If you remove screws in the deck boards around the old posts so you can put a long saw all blade between the deck boards and the joists and cut the posts down a joist level.
> View attachment 694755
> 
> ...


That sounds good to me. will the demo saw do a good enough job or does it need something bigger? Or a hand saw? Also I dont now if I have ever cut a post how do you do it straight through with the weight coming down? Otherwise sounds really good.
Edit: missed the saw all test was decent also. Still not sure how to cut the straight up post with the weight coming down I will watch some videos also


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> That sounds good to me. will the demo saw do a good enough job or does it need something bigger? Or a hand saw? Also I dont now if I have ever cut a post how do you do it straight through with the weight coming down? Otherwise sounds really good.
> Edit: missed the saw all test was decent also. Still not sure how to cut the straight up post with the weight coming down I will watch some videos also


If you get the saw blade between the deck boards and the joists to the inside of the post and cut your self out, it will be straight enough and the weight of the post will not be a concern.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you get the saw blade between the deck boards and the joists to the inside of the post and cut your self out, it will be straight enough and the weight of the post will not be a concern.


Heading back soon


Nealtw said:


> We can talk about that.
> If you remove screws in the deck boards around the old posts so you can put a long saw all blade between the deck boards and the joists and cut the posts down a joist level.
> View attachment 694755
> 
> ...


Heading back today should be back early evening. I was just thinking this morning if it would be worth it to entirely replace the post? I could rent a deck jack or whatever dig out the concrete and either pour concrete or use a premade footer that you bury. Just want your opinion. Honestly not sure how much posts are either especially ones that long. Might need to get my brother to come help me maneuver those if I did that also.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Heading back soon
> 
> Heading back today should be back early evening. I was just thinking this morning if it would be worth it to entirely replace the post? I could rent a deck jack or whatever dig out the concrete and either pour concrete or use a premade footer that you bury. Just want your opinion. Honestly not sure how much posts are either especially ones that long. Might need to get my brother to come help me maneuver those if I did that also.


No, no need for that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No, no need for that.


Ok sounds good just a curiosity. My one concern with the current posts is that the concrete could be bad like the post that was one the stairs. It was loose as soon as i unattached the railings. They seem good but Im guessing it was the same person that poured all of it. I know i would do a much better time with the concrete this time around and with the landing in front.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok sounds good just a curiosity. My one concern with the current posts is that the concrete could be bad like the post that was one the stairs. It was loose as soon as i unattached the railings. They seem good but Im guessing it was the same person that poured all of it. I know i would do a much better time with the concrete this time around and with the landing in front.


The time to change the post would have been before the deck was fixed. 
The way the deck is attached to the posts now It will be tricky at best. 
So unless there is a real problem with rot in the post, leave them alone.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The time to change the post would have been before the deck was fixed.
> The way the deck is attached to the posts now It will be tricky at best.
> So unless there is a real problem with rot in the post, leave them alone.


Sounds good to me. Thank You


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The time to change the post would have been before the deck was fixed.
> The way the deck is attached to the posts now It will be tricky at best.
> So unless there is a real problem with rot in the post, leave them alone.


Bad storms this morning going to go out and see about those posts when it stops.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Still can’t get more then a few minutes without rain set up and it starts again


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The time to change the post would have been before the deck was fixed.
> The way the deck is attached to the posts now It will be tricky at best.
> So unless there is a real problem with rot in the post, leave them alone.


Beautiful day today and the next few hopefully Getting started soon.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We can talk about that.
> If you remove screws in the deck boards around the old posts so you can put a long saw all blade between the deck boards and the joists and cut the posts down a joist level.
> View attachment 694755
> 
> ...


Posts are all cut and off still working between rain.. Neighbors said this weather this time of year is abnormal. Hope to get the wood up in the next lull put eh =/


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Posts are all cut and off still working between rain.. Neighbors said this weather this time of year is abnormal. Hope to get the wood up in the next lull put eh =/


How tall is the new post above the decking?
From the top of the decking to the concrete on post 1 and 2?
Measure the deck, length and width?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How tall is the new post above the decking?
> From the top of the decking to the concrete on post 1 and 2?
> Measure the deck, length and width?


The posts are 111 1/2” to the ground 112 1/2” to the ground and the new post from top to deck is 39 5/8”. The length of the deck is 72 1/8th inches and the width is 42 inches from the Wall to the outside of the deck 40 1/2” from deck board to outside piece 
Edit: I didn’t include the width of the deckboards when measuring post 1 and 2 so 112 1/2” and 113 1/2”


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The posts are 111 1/2” to the ground 112 1/2” to the ground and the new post from top to deck is 39 5/8”. The length of the deck is 72 1/8th inches and the width is 42 inches from the Wall to the outside of the deck 40 1/2” from deck board to outside piece
> Edit: I didn’t include the width of the deckboards when measuring post 1 and 2 so 112 1/2” and 113 1/2”


Now you need to pick a style. This is what I would do for the deck. 


















But there are many ways to do them and what you want is what counts.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Now you need to pick a style. This is what I would do for the deck.
> View attachment 695261
> 
> 
> ...


These really look good. What where you thinking for adding a roof on things?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> These really look good. What where you thinking for adding a roof on things?


You might just put in full height posts instead of just replacing what was there, or the short ones could be changed out later. Do you see yourself working on a roof 18 ft in the air?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You might just put in full height posts instead of just replacing what was there, or the short ones could be changed out later. Do you see yourself working on a roof 18 ft in the air?


I've felt pretty comfortable with the heights I could even rent something to make it safer. I do have time to consider at this point though. I have a second job starting in a week or so that will keep me pretty busy during the days and away from this place I plan to do more after that job ends though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You might just put in full height posts instead of just replacing what was there, or the short ones could be changed out later. Do you see yourself working on a roof 18 ft in the air?


My current roof is like a barn not sure how it would fit in it has orange aluminum I think it is.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> My current roof is like a barn not sure how it would fit in it has orange aluminum I think it is.


You would have stand back and take a picture. 
Treated lumber is wet and usually you want to use it sooner than later so you might be better buying what you can build in a reasonable time. Better than leaving wood to dry and twist.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

4x4 posts 2 8 ft 
2x6 4 14 ft 
2x6 1 10ft 
2x4 2 10 ft
2x4 4 8 ft 
2x4 1 16 ft 
Aprox. 22 ft of pickets. 264 inches /5= Aprox 53 pickets.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You might just put in full height posts instead of just replacing what was there, or the short ones could be changed out later. Do you see yourself working on a roof 18 ft in the air?
> [/QUOTE





Nealtw said:


> 4x4 posts 2 8 ft
> 2x6 4 14 ft
> 2x6 1 10ft
> 2x4 2 10 ft
> ...


Awesome I can pick all of that up first thing and get started. That is going to look really nice.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome I can pick all of that up first thing and get started. That is going to look really nice.


We talked about straightening the post, I have changed my mind.
You can add the height of the post against wall to the distance to the ground to cut the 2x6 to length .
By the stairs screw one to the post next to the stairs first and then one to the front.
For the other post I would nail 2 2x6s together in an ( L ) shape and then install them
Make sure the tops are level with our post up there before screwing them in.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We talked about straightening the post, I have changed my mind.
> You can add the height of the post against wall to the distance to the ground to cut the 2x6 to length .
> By the stairs screw one to the post next to the stairs first and then one to the front.
> For the other post I would nail 2 2x6s together in an ( L ) shape and then install them
> ...


Got everything now Ill be rolling along for the next few hours i will post updates


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We talked about straightening the post, I have changed my mind.
> You can add the height of the post against wall to the distance to the ground to cut the 2x6 to length .
> By the stairs screw one to the post next to the stairs first and then one to the front.
> For the other post I would nail 2 2x6s together in an ( L ) shape and then install them
> ...


 I made the cut right but I cleared out a little more rock on the side and now it is slightly off do i just raise itt until level. Also the 2x8 we added to the outside of the rim joist will be in the way of the 2nd 2x6x153 1/8


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I made the cut right but I cleared out a little more rock on the side and now it is slightly off do i just raise itt until level. Also the 2x8 we added to the outside of the rim joist will be in the way of the 2nd 2x6x153 1/8


Can you notch the new 2x6 to fit tight around it. 
Or cut the 2x8, just be care full with the depth of the blade.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I made the cut right but I cleared out a little more rock on the side and now it is slightly off do i just raise itt until level. Also the 2x8 we added to the outside of the rim joist will be in the way of the 2nd 2x6x153 1/8


Yes just raise it to level.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Can you notch the new 2x6 to fit tight around it.
> Or cut the 2x8, just be care full with the depth of the blade.


I can notch the 2x6 I think id rather do that then cut around the 2x8 lol


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> I can notch the 2x6 I think id rather do that then cut around the 2x8 lol





Nealtw said:


> Can you notch the new 2x6 to fit tight around it.
> Or cut the 2x8, just be care full with the depth of the blade.


Actually not 100% sure i can notch well it with the saws I have can i make a bunch of small cuts straight into the wood then kncok it out with a chisel?
edit: maybe cut the 2x8 part way with the reciprocating saw and then finish by hand?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Actually not 100% sure i can notch well it with the saws I have can i make a bunch of small cuts straight into the wood then kncok it out with a chisel?
> edit: maybe cut the 2x8 part way with the reciprocating saw and then finish by hand?


You can set the depth of the skill saw at 1 1/4" and finish by hand . 
And yes many cuts and break it out but you still have to set the depth of the saw. 
Unplug the saw, unlock the motor and raise it, turn saw over and measure height of blade, when the right height lock the motor in place.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You can set the depth of the skill saw at 1 1/4" and finish by hand .
> And yes many cuts and break it out but you still have to set the depth of the saw.
> Unplug the saw, unlock the motor and raise it, turn saw over and measure height of blade, when the right height lock the motor in place.


Im having a hard time getting the first board completely level. Its not 100% straight havent even gotten to the cutting yet lol. Its level from top of board to post but all of the other level readings running up and on the face and across the top where the cut is.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im having a hard time getting the first board completely level. Its not 100% straight havent even gotten to the cutting yet lol. Its level from top of board to post but all of the other level readings running up and on the face and across the top where the cut is.


Probably have to go with what the post is and deal with it above.
I assume you are talking about plumb not level.
Which post are you looking at, narrow it down to one problem at a time.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

sorry I meant plumb. This is the first board on the post by the stairs. 153 1/8th" The post itself is twisted so its hard to compare it to that. The very top where the rail will sit is just slightly off level. I think is right on that top measurement


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> sorry I meant plumb. This is the first board on the post by the stairs. 153 1/8th" The post itself is twisted so its hard to compare it to that. The very top where the rail will sit is just slightly off level. I think is right on that top measurement


I think the post against the wall was at 39 5/8 
Screw a block to the side of the 2x6 that you can just set on the deck. 
Add a couple screws near the stringer in the post and go down the bottom and line it up with the side of the post. 
And add screws all the way up. 
Will that work?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think the post against the wall was at 39 5/8
> Screw a block to the side of the 2x6 that you can just set on the deck.
> Add a couple screws near the stringer in the post and go down the bottom and line it up with the side of the post.
> And add screws all the way up.
> Will that work?


I think we can get that to work for sure. I cant get it to line up fully with the post but mostly between the bow of the posts and the bow of the boards they can be off a bit.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think we can get that to work for sure. I cant get it to line up fully with the post but mostly between the bow of the posts and the bow of the boards they can be off a bit.


Yes, I think so.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think the post against the wall was at 39 5/8
> Screw a block to the side of the 2x6 that you can just set on the deck.
> Add a couple screws near the stringer in the post and go down the bottom and line it up with the side of the post.
> And add screws all the way up.
> Will that work?


This is where I had it as plumb as i could get it adjusting to line up now though only have 1 screw and a clamp on it


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> This is where I had it as plumb as i could get it adjusting to line up now though only have 1 screw and a clamp on it


I can't make out what we are looking at, tight to the side of the stringer?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I can't make out what we are looking at, tight to the side of the stringer?


th brown corner is on the stringer side going on the post by the stairs I am putting it tight now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I can't make out what we are looking at, tight to the side of the stringer?


This is how it is to make the outside edge of the 2x6 plumb i would need to move the bottom out slightly more. It is mostly and I am not sure how much of the off level is because of the "twist" of the board.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> This is how it is to make the outside edge of the 2x6 plumb i would need to move the bottom out slightly more. It is mostly and I am not sure how much of the off level is because of the "twist" of the board.


Make it plumb in the section above the deck.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Make it plumb in the section above the deck.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Close enough. 
Screw it there,


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Close enough.
> Screw it there,


seems like such a big length off haha but it is level It gets flush with the post closer to the top.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> seems like such a big length off haha but it is level It gets flush with the post closer to the top.


Your pictures are to close for me to judge what you have.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Your pictures are to close for me to judge what you have.


ok I will get a better one


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Your pictures are to close for me to judge what you have.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Okay, cut the 2x8 back so you have the 5 1/2" for the next one and just screw that one at deck height and show me what you have.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Okay, cut the 2x8 back so you have the 5 1/2" for the next one and just screw that one at deck height and show me what you have.


Sorry I dont fully understand what you mean by screw that one at deck height. Second 2x6 is not running the full height up to the post on the deck?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry I dont fully understand what you mean by screw that one at deck height. Second 2x6 is not running the full height up to the post on the deck?


The next one will be the same height as the first but when you put it up I just want you to add a screw at 109" from the ground and show me what that looks like.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The next one will be the same height as the first but when you put it up I just want you to add a screw at 109" from the ground and show me what that looks like.


Sounds good about to do that now piece is cut


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The next one will be the same height as the first but when you put it up I just want you to add a screw at 109" from the ground and show me what that looks like.


here is that


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> here is that


Remove the clamp and see how they fit together where you have it screwed , make that look the same top to bottom and screw thru the first into this one.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Remove the clamp and see how they fit together where you have it screwed , make that look the same top to bottom and screw thru the first into this one.
> View attachment 695384


Pretty sure this is what you meant


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Pretty sure this is what you meant


We can come back to that and make it look better later, can we get much the same with the other.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We can come back to that and make it look better later, can we get much the same with the other.


I can try which side should I start with first on the next post? long side or short side of deck


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We talked about straightening the post, I have changed my mind.
> You can add the height of the post against wall to the distance to the ground to cut the 2x6 to length .
> By the stairs screw one to the post next to the stairs first and then one to the front.
> For the other post I would nail 2 2x6s together in an ( L ) shape and then install them
> ...


I see this post but it might be hard for me to maneuver that nailed together piece


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I see this post but it might be hard for me to maneuver that nailed together piece


Then do it one at a time with the far side first just like the first one. 
When you are done for the night there are some things I want to talk about.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then do it one at a time with the far side first just like the first one.
> When you are done for the night there are some things I want to talk about.


I will see if I can get it in before it gets to be too dark. I have a good method for adjusting now with the wrecking bar so its a lot easier and quicker for us to get this in. I will come back and be around only time I will be away is picking up dinner down the street


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then do it one at a time with the far side first just like the first one.
> When you are done for the night there are some things I want to talk about.


Probably the last I can do tonight. I feel like I need to shift this one slightly away from the ledger. To line up with the 2x6 on the other post. However the top is level between each side and the first board on this post is plumb at the top.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Probably the last I can do tonight. I feel like I need to shift this one slightly away from the ledger. To line up with the 2x6 on the other post. However the top is level between each side and the first board on this post is plumb at the top.


I think you understand that enough to figure it out, we will just deal with what you end up with. 
When you cut the posts to go inside them at the top take one from each 8 footer. 

To get the right height for the railing measure from the nose of the tread so we lay the level on the noses and mark the 2x6 at the bottom of the level. 
Then we measure up 32" and draw a line there with the quick square. 








Then for the length of the other posts. 
we measure down to the tread and add 7 11/32 for the bottom one. 
And measure down to the bottom of the stringer for the length of the other, 









In order to make that work the posts have to be in the same place beside the tread. 
So you measure from the nose of the tread to the new 2x6 
And measure at the bottom tread and the 8th tread the same distance and use a level to draw in where the post will be.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think you understand that enough to figure it out, we will just deal with what you end up with.
> When you cut the posts to go inside them at the top take one from each 8 footer.
> 
> To get the right height for the railing measure from the nose of the tread so we lay the level on the noses and mark the 2x6 at the bottom of the level.
> ...


1. Yes no problem I can figure that out for sure. 
2. Cut posts for "sleeves on deck from separate 8 foot 4x4.
3. Bottom edge of level goes on nose of deck tread line drawn here and then 32" measured up from mentioned line.
4. I am not sure if I fully understand the measurements for each post here in the second drawing.
5. Top measurement from nose of top tread to the edge of the new 2x6= distance used nose of tread to where the post will be installed which is the bottom tread and tread 8 from the bottom.
I think I understand what I am supposed to do here I am not 100% sure about the second image and the measurements taken so I marked that out in my step 4


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 1. Yes no problem I can figure that out for sure.
> 2. Cut posts for "sleeves on deck from separate 8 foot 4x4.
> 3. Bottom edge of level goes on nose of deck tread line drawn here and then 32" measured up from mentioned line.
> 4. I am not sure if I fully understand the measurements for each post here in the second drawing.
> ...


We want each post to be the same distance from the nose of the step they are beside. if we don't have them in the same location the height would be different with all kinds of problems getting that right.
So the new 2x6 is the top post. 
one at the bottom tread and one on tread #8 as you have 15 treads #8 should be in the middle. 
Does that work.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We want each post to be the same distance from the nose of the step they are beside. if we don't have them in the same location the height would be different with all kinds of problems getting that right.
> So the new 2x6 is the top post.
> one at the bottom tread and one on tread #8 as you have 15 treads #8 should be in the middle.
> Does that work.


I think I get it i will need to see how it clicks in my head once I am actually trying it but 99% sure i understand


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think I get it i will need to see how it clicks in my head once I am actually trying it but 99% sure i understand


So you have things to keep you busy in the morning. 
Almost all the angles that we need to do the stairs will be the 7 11/32" jig angle. 
But when you are measuring for angle cuts, there is language we use as we measure. 
With this we always want to think about what we are measuring and write down, so we can double check before we cut anything. 
We write down what the measurement angles are on each end 
like long to long, short to short, long to short, short to long 
long to square or square to short. 
They all make sense but it does need you to keep the head in the game. 
These are common screw ups for people new on the job. So I thought I would just give you a heads up. 
You will be able pick them out in the picture. 









When you have the word short you need to remember that the piece you need to cut will be some longer than the measurement. 
When ever possible we cut the long angle first so we can hook the tape on the end to measure and mark the other end.
Measuring short to short is a pain in but. but sometimes we have no choice.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The reason for bringing this up because when you measure the height of the post, you are measuring the short side of the top post where the rail will go. 
So for the middle post you would say short to long which is the same as saying long to short. 
But the bottom post will be short to square.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 695414
> 
> 
> The reason for bringing this up because when you measure the height of the post, you are measuring the short side of the top post where the rail will go.
> ...


I really appreciate this.


Nealtw said:


> View attachment 695414
> 
> 
> The reason for bringing this up because when you measure the height of the post, you are measuring the short side of the top post where the rail will go.
> ...


I will understand this better when Im fresh and looking at things but If I am understanding correctly short is when the measurement is the top of the cut and then the angle of the cut extends it whatever that distance the angle of the cut creates? So long would be the opposite where the measurement is the end of the cut and the angle of the cut would be the other way. I still might mess it up lol but I think I will be able to figure this out once Ive got everything set in front of me.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I really appreciate this.
> 
> I will understand this better when Im fresh and looking at things but If I am understanding correctly short is when the measurement is the top of the cut and then the angle of the cut extends it whatever that distance the angle of the cut creates? So long would be the opposite where the measurement is the end of the cut and the angle of the cut would be the other way. I still might mess it up lol but I think I will be able to figure this out once Ive got everything set in front of me.


Yes just so you know it is something to be sure of when you are measuring and again when you cutting. 
And i will be reminding you.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes just so you know it is something to be sure of when you are measuring and again when you cutting.
> And i will be reminding you.


As always I appreciate it have a good night.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think you understand that enough to figure it out, we will just deal with what you end up with.
> When you cut the posts to go inside them at the top take one from each 8 footer.
> 
> To get the right height for the railing measure from the nose of the tread so we lay the level on the noses and mark the 2x6 at the bottom of the level.
> ...


Still working on getting everything in for these boards. I have everything level at the top. For the front board should i do what we did for the first one? measure to 109 inches at deck level and then place a screw and match the rest of the board down like that? I started just screwing it to the post again.

Also I am having a really hard time with plumb again this last board is really warped and ths post is more warped but again i do have it level at the top.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Still working on getting everything in for these boards. I have everything level at the top. For the front board should i do what we did for the first one? measure to 109 inches at deck level and then place a screw and match the rest of the board down like that? I started just screwing it to the post again.
> 
> Also I am having a really hard time with plumb again this last board is really warped and ths post is more warped but again i do have it level at the top.


I would have held the back one so the top section was plumb and screwed that to the post, and then do the front piece so it matches the edge of the first piece. Like the first post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would have held the back one so the top section was plumb and screwed that to the post, and then do the front piece so it matches the edge of the first piece. Like the first post.


I remembered just after I started screwing the front piece in. I can adjust it now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would have held the back one so the top section was plumb and screwed that to the post, and then do the front piece so it matches the edge of the first piece. Like the first post.


Think I have all of that squared away just finishing putting screws in. I feel like I am putting an excessive amount of screws in though lol.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Think I have all of that squared away just finishing putting screws in. I feel like I am putting an excessive amount of screws in though lol.


Good they need lots of screws.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Think I have all of that squared away just finishing putting screws in. I feel like I am putting an excessive amount of screws in though lol.


So now you can cut the posts for on the deck, they will be plumb one way and hope for the best the other way. 
Remember, one from each 8 footer.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Think I have all of that squared away just finishing putting screws in. I feel like I am putting an excessive amount of screws in though lol.


Do you have a 4 ft piece of 2x6 left over from the lumber from the stairs, not from the new lumber?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a 4 ft piece of 2x6 left over from the lumber from the stairs, not from the new lumber?


I might I will look I have some that will be close


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a 4 ft piece of 2x6 left over from the lumber from the stairs, not from the new lumber?


Broke the drill bit I was using to do pilots going to grab a new one really quickly. not to many screws left


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I might I will look I have some that will be close


If you have one put it on the side of the post against the wall, so they all look alike.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you have one put it on the side of the post against the wall, so they all look alike.
> View attachment 695507


Just finished screwing eerything in bout to start on the posts now lots and lots and lots of screws lol.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just finished screwing eerything in bout to start on the posts now lots and lots and lots of screws lol.


well done.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> well done.


I have this piece sized right I will have some difficulty with the tools i have screw it in though because of the roof. Getting ready to cut the posts now. I am just realizing I have never cut posts before am I using the skill saw and rotating it or the reciprocating saw maybe?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> well done.


Thank you means alot.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have this piece sized right I will have some difficulty with the tools i have screw it in though because of the roof. Getting ready to cut the posts now. I am just realizing I have never cut posts before am I using the skill saw and rotating it or the reciprocating saw maybe?


Pull it out flush with the far side so it will look like the corner post from on the deck .
Screw the bottom first where you can.
Then do a few angles screw at the top. 
Angle screws can move the board so you do the straight lower first and then the angle down from the top and the a just a few on the side.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Pull it out flush with the far side so it will look like the corner post from on the deck .
> Screw the bottom first where you can.
> Then do a few angles screw at the top.
> Angle screws can move the board so you do the straight lower first and then the angle down from the top and the a just a few on the side.
> View attachment 695529


Got this piece in. over notched it slightly put looks good and is solid.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

So when you have the other two posts in you can add the top and bottom 2x4 rails 
Use 2x4s for bottom spacer from the deck 
On the back post you will have to add a 2x2 to screw the rails to


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So when you have the other two posts in you can add the top and bottom 2x4 rails
> Use 2x4s for bottom spacer from the deck
> On the back post you will have to add a 2x2 to screw the rails to
> View attachment 695544
> ...





Nealtw said:


> View attachment 695414
> 
> 
> The reason for bringing this up because when you measure the height of the post, you are measuring the short side of the top post where the rail will go.
> ...


Top 2 posts are in the 2x6 sleeves now I ran out of screws again they had not of what I needed yesterday hoping they do today to avoid the 2+ hours to lowes and back before monday.
Edit: got 3 1/2"x10 deck screws 1/2" longer but probably better right?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Top 2 posts are in the 2x6 sleeves now I ran out of screws again they had not of what I needed yesterday hoping they do today to avoid the 2+ hours to lowes and back before monday.
> Edit: got 3 1/2"x10 deck screws 1/2" longer but probably better right?


They will go right thru but will work.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> They will go right thru but will work.


should I grab some 3"? i can get a small box I have 2" and maybe 2 1/2" also
Going to start the railings now


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> should I grab some 3"? i can get a small box I have 2" and maybe 2 1/2" also
> Going to start the railings now


2 1/2 should work.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 2 1/2 should work.


I was wrong no 2 1/2" going to tractor supply to get some or 3s really depends on what is stocked


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 2 1/2 should work.


Here is where I am this is what you had in mind I hope haha I thought I was reading things correctly. I wont beable to get the 2x2 until monday without going to lowes. for the short piece of rail.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Here is where I am this is what you had in mind I hope haha I thought I was reading things correctly. I wont beable to get the 2x2 until monday without going to lowes. for the short piece of rail.


Did you buy pickets? Are they 2x2s? If not we we need 3 or 4 pieces for the stairs too.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Here is where I am this is what you had in mind I hope haha I thought I was reading things correctly. I wont beable to get the 2x2 until monday without going to lowes. for the short piece of rail.


The 3 1/2 " blocks are just spacers to get it in the right place, they don't need to stay.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So from that line measure down to the top of the tread
> and to the bottom of the stringer.
> View attachment 695658


I got 37 3/16" and 48 5/8" I think the top of tread measurement is actually 37 1/16"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I got 37 3/16" and 48 5/8"


So the post for the 8th tread will be 48 5/8 long to short. So it will be a around 50, 51 inches including the angle
The bottom one will be (4415/32) square to shot. so about 47,48 inches including the angle.
Did that make sense to you?
For the bottom one I just add your( 37 1/16") to the height of the tread from the ground 7 11/32.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So the post for the 8th tread will be 48 5/8 long to short. So it will be a around 50, 51 inches including the angle
> The bottom one will be 44 17/32 square to shot. so about 47,48 inches including the angle.
> Did that make sense to you?
> For the bottom one I just add your 37 3/16" to the height of the tread from the ground 7 11/32.


The cut for the 8th tread starts at 48 5/8th angle of the blade will make it 50 or 51 inches. am i cutting both sides of the post when doing long to short and only one side when doing square to short?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I got 37 3/16" and 48 5/8" I think the top of tread measurement is actually 37 1/16"


See that I edited my measurement.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The cut for the 8th tread starts at 48 5/8th angle of the blade will make it 50 or 51 inches. am i cutting both sides of the post when doing long to short and only one side when doing square to short?


Let talk one at a time, always the longer first so we can recover from a mistake. 
So for the 8th post cut one end with the 7" jig and then measure the long to short and cut the other end the same angle.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Only when you are happy with the longer one you go the the shorter one
you can just measure up from the square end and and mark the angle and remember that the angle makes it longer.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Let talk one at a time, always the longer first so we can recover from a mistake.
> So for the 8th post cut one end with the 7" jig and then measure the long to short and cut the other end the same angle.
> View attachment 695660


so the top of the jig angle on the left will be 48 5/8" and then I match the jig up to the end of the other side. I think I understand even if I am not explaining it back well


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Only when you are happy with the longer one you go the the shorter one
> you can just measure up from the square end and and mark the angle and remember that the angle makes it longer.
> View attachment 695665


On this measuring to the bottom angle on the right will be the 44 15/32" and the top is where the cut of the jig will end?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> so the top of the jig angle on the left will be 48 5/8" and then I match the jig up to the end of the other side. I think I understand even if I am not explaining it back well


Yes, it is just important that before you cut to length stop and rethink and make sure it is right.
The jig from the stairs set up and cut.
Then use the quick square to extend the cut lines around the post, then use the universal jig for the back side.
You still will not be right thru, just remove the jig and let the saw blade follow in the first cut.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, it is just important that before you cut to length stop and rethink and make sure it is right.
> The jig from the stairs set up and cut.
> Then use the quick square to extend the cut lines around the post, then use the universal jig for the back side.
> You still will not be right thru, just remove the jig and let the saw blade follow in the first cut.


Sounds really good thank you. I can get to those cuts in the morning and will really take it slow. Sadly looking like rain tomorrow but maybe we will get lucky. I should have enough time without rain if the cuts are made.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds really good thank you. I can get to those cuts in the morning and will really take it slow. Sadly looking like rain tomorrow but maybe we will get lucky. I should have enough time without rain if the cuts are made.


For now you will just screw thru the stringers to the posts. 
To aid with that you can screw a block on the side of the post so it will some what sit on the tread at the right height while you line it up with the lines and add screws. 
37 1/16 down from the short
You might remove a tread to make it easier then the block would be at 38 9/16 down from the short.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> For now you will just screw thru the stringers to the posts.
> To aid with that you can screw a block on the side of the post so it will some what sit on the tread at the right height while you line it up with the lines and add screws.
> 37 1/16 down from the short
> You might remove a tread to make it easier then the block would be at 38 9/16 down from the short.


Definitely will use this. Anything to make it easier. Sometimes I need 8 arms to do some of these things alone lol. I like figuring things out and taking it slow though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Definitely will use this. Anything to make it easier. Sometimes I need 8 arms to do some of these things alone lol. I like figuring things out and taking it slow though.


I have faith but I will be happier when we see success 
Real experience isn't just following instructions, it is figuring out how to deal with mistakes.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Definitely will use this. Anything to make it easier. Sometimes I need 8 arms to do some of these things alone lol. I like figuring things out and taking it slow though.


Dig thru the dried pickets and see if you can find a few usable ones.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I have faith but I will be happier when we see success
> Real experience isn't just following instructions, it is figuring out how to deal with mistakes.


I feel like I am learning a good bit especially as far as comfort with tools goes. Sorry more time then i thought passed getting dinner together lol lot of veggie cutting. I really do appreciate how you go through things with me though. Sometimes I cant see things staring me in the face lol. Like derping around with the level earlier not thinking to flip it. Overall though I have learned more doing this then I feel like I have doing other things in awhile.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Let talk one at a time, always the longer first so we can recover from a mistake.
> So for the 8th post cut one end with the 7" jig and then measure the long to short and cut the other end the same angle.
> View attachment 695660


first cut is done I want to make sure I am getting it right before the second though. I am measuring from the long section 48 5/8" to the short section?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> first cut is done I want to make sure I am getting it right before the second though. I am measuring from the long section 48 5/8" to the short section?


Yes , at the same angle


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes , at the same angle


alright this one looks good measurements are right between each long and short section and it looks like the image you sent


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> alright this one looks good measurements are right between each long and short section and it looks like the image you sent


Good then the other one is just one cut from the square end to the short of the angle.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good then the other one is just one cut from the square end to the short of the angle.
> [/QUOT
> I measure from square to short 48 5/8" line up the jig and cut?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good then the other one is just one cut from the square end to the short of the angle.


I measure from square to short 48 5/8" then set up the jig and cut


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

No 
The bottom one will be (44 15/32) square to short


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No
> The bottom one will be (44 15/32) square to short


Shoot yeah sorry mixing things up glad I asked. Thank you


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No
> The bottom one will be (44 15/32) square to short


So i made a bad cut. I am off almost an inch because I measure off of the edge like a derp. I dont have a piece of new post long enough. I do have a length left from the post we added on the deck in the fall that is long enough. It seems straight its just dry now. Otherwise I need to go to lowes to get a new post or wait until tomorrow either way takes up most of the rest of the day


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So i made a bad cut. I am off almost an inch because I measure off of the edge like a derp. I dont have a piece of new post long enough. I do have a length left from the post we added on the deck in the fall that is long enough. It seems straight its just dry now. Otherwise I need to go to lowes to get a new post or wait until tomorrow either way takes up most of the rest of the day


If the angle is right, we can still use it, It just won't reach the ground when you lift it to the right height. 
Or you can use the dry one.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If the angle is right, we can still use it, It just won't reach the ground when you lift it to the right height.
> Or you can use the dry one.


Which do you think would be best? I am happy with either solution


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Which do you think would be best? I am happy with either solution


I would use it, 
Let's start with the one for tread 8. 
One the bottom of the stringer you can screw a 2x4 block so it stick out and will support the post and ass another block to the side of the stringer beside the line. 
And remove the one piece of tread above this area. 








Then you can set the post in place and get one screw in it and then check it for plumb .


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would use it,
> Let's start with the one for tread 8.
> One the bottom of the stringer you can screw a 2x4 block so it stick out and will support the post and ass another block to the side of the stringer beside the line.
> And remove the one piece of tread above this area.
> ...


Just waiting on the rain/thunder hopefully soon


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would use it,
> Let's start with the one for tread 8.
> One the bottom of the stringer you can screw a 2x4 block so it stick out and will support the post and ass another block to the side of the stringer beside the line.
> And remove the one piece of tread above this area.
> ...


Bout to go give it a go


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would use it,
> Let's start with the one for tread 8.
> One the bottom of the stringer you can screw a 2x4 block so it stick out and will support the post and ass another block to the side of the stringer beside the line.
> And remove the one piece of tread above this area.
> ...


Set up and poured on again =/ kept my drill dry atleast really annoying how much it has rained...


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would use it,
> Let's start with the one for tread 8.
> One the bottom of the stringer you can screw a 2x4 block so it stick out and will support the post and ass another block to the side of the stringer beside the line.
> And remove the one piece of tread above this area.
> ...


alright think i got it in as you planned i have it plumb. its a tiny bit off the lines I drew though Not sure if its the blocking or my angle on the level honestly might have shifted some drawing yesterday. I also need to go get some longer screws what kind would you recommend. 4 1/2" i think is the longest I can get


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> alright think i got it in as you planned i have it plumb. its a tiny bit off the lines I drew though Not sure if its the blocking or my angle on the level honestly might have shifted some drawing yesterday. I also need to go get some longer screws what kind would you recommend. 4 1/2" i think is the longest I can get


4 or 6 of the 3 1/2" screws will hold it, some high, some low, later we will put a bolt thru the center.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 4 or 6 of the 3 1/2" screws will hold it, some high, some low, later we will put a bolt thru the center.


Derp I screw through the stringer into the post not through the post into the stringer?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Derp I screw through the stringer into the post not through the post into the stringer?


Yes, yes.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, yes.


 ok that is done I think it is all good. my plumb with the stringer face to face is not perfect but i think its because the 4x4 is slightly crooked just a tiny bit. Might beable to adjust the screws and pull the top of the post in more its plumb the way we measured yesterday


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> ok that is done I think it is all good. my plumb with the stringer face to face is not perfect but i think its because the 4x4 is slightly crooked just a tiny bit. Might beable to adjust the screws and pull the top of the post in more its plumb the way we measured yesterday


So on that one, you can measure down from the top to the stringer so you can add a block to the side of the other one so when you place it the block will sit on the stringer at the right height.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So on that one, you can measure down from the top to the stringer so you can add a block to the side of the other one so when you place it the block will sit on the stringer at the right height.


Ok sounds good I was off the cut by almost an inch because of the way I measured


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So on that one, you can measure down from the top to the stringer so you can add a block to


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So on that one, you can measure down from the top to the stringer so you can add a block to the side of the other one so when you place it the block will sit on the stringer at the right height.


Ok I have this one in it is plumb and measures 44 15/32 from the bottom of the stringer to the short part of the cut clamp is still on with a few screws in


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok I have this one in it is plumb and measures 44 15/32 from the bottom of the stringer to the short part of the cut clamp is still on with a few screws in


Sounds good finish screwing it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Sounds good finish screwing it.


Awesome


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Sounds good finish screwing it.


alright all in just beat the rain


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You have 4 8 ft 2x4s for top and bottom rails. 
The top ones will go between the posts flush with the top. and the bottom ones will be 1 1/2 above the noses
The should be the same angle but we won't trust that. 
So for the first bottom one lay a 2x4 on flat up the noses of the treads and stand a 2x4 on that next to the posts and draw the lines inside both posts. 
then cut these lines may not be right for the jig, but cut the new lines. 
Check the fit and and check if it would fit the top too.
Do one like that and come back.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You have 4 8 ft 2x4s for top and bottom rails.
> The top ones will go between the posts flush with the top. and the bottom ones will be 1 1/2 above the noses
> The should be the same angle but we won't trust that.
> So for the first bottom one lay a 2x4 on flat up the noses of the treads and stand a 2x4 on that next to the posts and draw the lines inside both posts.
> ...


The lines I drew fit the jig so I made the cuts and the piece seems to fit in all 4 locations we need it to and the angle seems good. I might have cut this piece like 1/32" to short but it seems to be a good fit.
Edit: did i cut the bottom part upside down lol?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The lines I drew fit the jig so I made the cuts and the piece seems to fit in all 4 locations we need it to and the angle seems good. I might have cut this piece like 1/32" to short but it seems to be a good fit.


Lay the flat one on the noses again and mark on all for where the it lines up on the posts and the 2x6 at top.. 








And then cut 3 more, gotta like it when a plan comes together.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Lay the flat one on the noses again and mark on all for where the it lines up on the posts and the 2x6 at top..
> View attachment 695809
> 
> And then cut 3 more, gotta like it when a plan comes together.


Yes sir, I can just directly trace the next 3? after 9 pm now so i cant do any cutting but I should get that up quickly in the morning. Then Ill go buy the 2x2 then send you a message here. Probably a dumb question but did I cut the bottom angle upside down? it seems good my brains just slowing down some now lol.
Edit: on another note I am super excited that it all came together like that.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir, I can just directly trace the next 3? after 9 pm now so i cant do any cutting but I should get that up quickly in the morning. Then Ill go buy the 2x2 then send you a message here. Probably a dumb question but did I cut the bottom angle upside down? it seems good my brains just slowing down some now lol.


I can't see the bottom one but if it fit it is fine, it should be long to short.
Before you quit for the night can you get a level measurement between the posts?









Or close to level as you can. You can hook on one post and then subtract 3 1/2"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I can't see the bottom one but if it fit it is fine, it should be long to short.
> Before you quit for the night can you get a level measurement between the posts?
> View attachment 695814
> 
> ...


Yes sir, I just can't really cut kind of close quarters for the noise


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I can't see the bottom one but if it fit it is fine, it should be long to short.
> Before you quit for the night can you get a level measurement between the posts?
> View attachment 695814
> 
> ...


The cut is the the same kind we made earlier on the post for the 8th tread one side long to short then other side the same I traced the line the same way.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir, I just can't really cut kind of close quarters for the noise


Level and measure should not be noisy?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The cut is the the same kind we made earlier on the post for the 8th tread one side long to short then other side the same I traced the line the same way.


Yes you lay the cut board on the top of the new board and draw lines, no thinking required. 
mark out all three using the same one for a pattern.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Level and measure should not be noisy?


O no i was just saying I just cant cut right now, anything else is good. I have that right here I used a 2x4 to stretch it then subtracted the length. the top line is level on the 2x4 the bottom mark with the arrow is where level is. Also haha I can use some not thinking I just cant get to caught up in it thats where I make the dumbest of mistakes lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> O no i was just saying I just cant cut right now, anything else is good. I have that right here I used a 2x4 to stretch it then subtracted the length. the top line is level on the 2x4 the bottom mark with the arrow is where level is. Also haha I can use some not thinking I just cant get to caught up in it thats where I make the dumbest of mistakes lol


I want to know how many inches between the post on that level line??


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I want to know how many inches between the post on that level line??


oops sorry ill get that


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I want to know how many inches between the post on that level line??


im ending up at 67 1/4 on the dot though im not sure if the tiny tiny corner where the lip is catch the end up the measuring tape could put it off the tiniest bit


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> im ending up at 67 1/4 on the dot though im not sure if the tiny tiny corner where the lip is catch the end up the measuring tape could put it off the tiniest bit


If you marked the posts 
You can measure up to the top, they should all be the same and what is the measurement.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you marked the posts
> You can measure up to the top, they should all be the same and what is the measurement.
> View attachment 695817


im getting right around 26" i think i messed up some though they arent exact Im going to need to erase these lines and re do it make sure i am getting it right


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> im getting right around 26" i think i messed up some though they arent exact Im going to need to erase these lines and re do it make sure i am getting it right


I think we will need about 48 pickets total 
26" or what ever you settle one will be the long to short of all the picket for the stairs and we will need 26 of them 
cut on the long to short with the 7" jig. 
You can set up a jig so you can cut a few at a time.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think we will need about 48 pickets total
> 26" or what ever you settle one will be the long to short of all the picket for the stairs and we will need 26 of them
> cut on the long to short with the 7" jig.
> You can set up a jig so you can cut a few at a time.
> View attachment 695821


Awesome Ill grab some extra for error though Ill try the save some cuts either way lots of those to do tomorrow. Exciting coming down to the wire.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> im getting right around 26" i think i messed up some though they arent exact Im going to need to erase these lines and re do it make sure i am getting it right


As you know, my mornings are not always early and I will be away in the after noon tomorrow .


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> As you know, my mornings are not always early and I will be away in the after noon tomorrow .


Appreciate everything and the heads up I will be hammering away at things all day Ill post updates as I complete steps.. Hope you have a good night/day


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Appreciate everything and the heads up I will be hammering away at things all day Ill post updates as I complete steps.. Hope you have a good night/day


Just use a 2x4 as a spacer between the pickets
Just use the space jig and put one screw at the top do them all across the top and then use the level to plumb then down and add screws at the bottom and then add another screw at the top.









We always start from the middle. 
We want to ends with a space on both sides that are equal and are less than 3 3/4" and we don't want to rip a picket to fill a space. 
We have a choice of putting the picket in the center or putting the 2x4 spacer in the center. 
Which ever allows that equal spacing on both sides.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just use a 2x4 as a spacer between the pickets
> Just use the space jig and put one screw at the top do them all across the top and then use the level to plumb then down and add screws at the bottom and then add another screw at the top.
> View attachment 695865
> 
> ...


Ive been trying all morning to get these measurements to match up i cant get it. Starting to drive me crazy. Its all fairly close but I mean its off enough all of my wood is warping including the 2x4 I am laying the rail pieces flat on. Im pushing and trying to line things up but its not working I ended up taking the 8th tread post of because it was slightly off level and not plumb with the stringer face only plumb one way. getting it back on now but these measurements really are driving me crazy and more darn rain today.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just use a 2x4 as a spacer between the pickets
> Just use the space jig and put one screw at the top do them all across the top and then use the level to plumb then down and add screws at the bottom and then add another screw at the top.
> View attachment 695865
> 
> ...


managed to fxi my problem i think ill see fter this edit: Never mind maybe i just made a bad cut idk.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> managed to fxi my problem i think ill see fter this edit: Never mind maybe i just made a bad cut idk.


You are going to add pickets flush with the the out side of the post and you can screw the 2x4 to those. 
So you might get away with a little less than perfect.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You are going to add pickets flush with the the out side of the post and you can screw the 2x4 to those.
> So you might get away with a little less than perfect.
> View attachment 695912


Im going to measure up a new one tomorrow and see if the cut was bad. I messed around with it for hours trying to figure it out lol. I feel like its a bad cut just off enough to sit funny. One side is high the top part of the bottom rail on the 8th tread post and where it meets the bottom post its slightly low they want to meet at 26" in the middle one is 26 1/4" one is 25 3/4". also having some trouble getting the post 100% level on the face that meets the stringer the post doesnt look 100% straight though and i know the stringers had some warping also.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im going to measure up a new one tomorrow and see if the cut was bad. I messed around with it for hours trying to figure it out lol. I feel like its a bad cut just off enough to sit funny. One side is high the top part of the bottom rail on the 8th tread post and where it meets the bottom post its slightly low they want to meet at 26" in the middle one is 26 1/4" one is 25 3/4". also having some trouble getting the post 100% level on the face that meets the stringer the post doesnt look 100% straight though and i know the stringers had some warping also.


If we didn't get the post in the right place that would effect the eight of the posts 
If a post is closer to the nose the post would be to high. 
to far away it would be short.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im going to measure up a new one tomorrow and see if the cut was bad. I messed around with it for hours trying to figure it out lol. I feel like its a bad cut just off enough to sit funny. One side is high the top part of the bottom rail on the 8th tread post and where it meets the bottom post its slightly low they want to meet at 26" in the middle one is 26 1/4" one is 25 3/4". also having some trouble getting the post 100% level on the face that meets the stringer the post doesnt look 100% straight though and i know the stringers had some warping also.


For the post placement I should have had you measure from the riser cut on the stringer instead of the nose, maybe.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If we didn't get the post in the right place that would effect the eight of the posts
> If a post is closer to the nose the post would be to high.
> to far away it would be short.


So my measurement on the post could be off some? I think the measurement for the 8th tread was the 25 3/4 measurement. I think I am having multiple smaller things combining together. First my bottom post was shifting. When its in the right spot my middle post reads 25 3/4 and the bottom post reads 26 1/4. As far as plumb flush with the stringer. I think the crown/warp and the slight warp in the new post are creating an environment that is not fully level.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> For the post placement I should have had you measure from the riser cut on the stringer instead of the nose, maybe.


I dont think that its as off as the nose though. Maybe though. Let me check.. My noses are slightly less then 1 1/4" Its not taking that much to get things to sit right together. I also think the 2x4 I was using to place the rail on while I measured had a pretty good warp to it. Im going to pick up a really straight un treated piece that might not bend so much. Last and Im not sure if least My actual 2x4 I have for the rail has a decent warp in it. I am going to list out everything together.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> For the post placement I should have had you measure from the riser cut on the stringer instead of the nose, maybe.


1. Post not plumb with stringer. Warping in both post and stringer? 
2. Bottom post shifting affecting measurements. Adding more screws.
3. possibly an imperfect cut on the rail angles.
4. post not in the right spot? nose = just under 1 1/4" current difference is 25 3/4" on the 8th tread and 26 1/4" on the lower. Not taking into account the top rail yet. 
5. 2x4 used to lay rail 2x4 on to measure was warped and the rail itself also is warped.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So my measurement on the post could be off some? I think the measurement for the 8th tread was the 25 3/4 measurement. I think I am having multiple smaller things combining together. First my bottom post was shifting. When its in the right spot my middle post reads 25 3/4 and the bottom post reads 26 1/4. As far as plumb flush with the stringer. I think the crown/warp and the slight warp in the new post are creating an environment that is not fully level.


At some point Pick an average number and cut the pickets and just go with it. 
If it is just one problem you can find and fix, great but if you start chasing 3 or 4 things you can go nuts doing this stuff.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> At some point Pick an average number and cut the pickets and just go with it.
> If it is just one problem you can find and fix, great but if you start chasing 3 or 4 things you can go nuts doing this stuff.


Explains why I was going nuts yesterday haha. I know it will look nice in the end even with some mistakes and I can be proud of the work I did. Every time I walk up and down I feel good lol. None of these things are off very much. Just tiny little things that are adding into slightly larger but still tiny discrepancies. I can make minor adjustments and or recut/measure just to be sure. The warp in the actual rail is pretty substantial actually i think that might be part of it. I need to grab the pickets today anyway so ill grab that extra 2x4 while I am doing that.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Explains why I was going nuts yesterday haha. I know it will look nice in the end even with some mistakes and I can be proud of the work I did. Every time I walk up and down I feel good lol. None of these things are off very much. Just tiny little things that are adding into slightly larger but still tiny discrepancies. I can make minor adjustments and or recut/measure just to be sure. The warp in the actual rail is pretty substantial actually i think that might be part of it. I need to grab the pickets today anyway so ill grab that extra 2x4 while I am doing that.


Do you have an F clamp like this? 








So you can have a jig for cutting pickets.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have an F clamp like this?
> View attachment 695945
> 
> So you can have a jig for cutting pickets.


I think I can grab one from tractor supply


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think we will need about 48 pickets total
> 26" or what ever you settle one will be the long to short of all the picket for the stairs and we will need 26 of them
> cut on the long to short with the 7" jig.
> You can set up a jig so you can cut a few at a time.
> View attachment 695821


I have this calculated out at 104 feet does that sound right haha. Im not sure what lengths the 2x2 comes in at this place.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have this calculated out at 104 feet does that sound right haha. Im not sure what lengths the 2x2 comes in at this place.


Usually they have 2x2 pickets around 40 inches and are better quality than buying lengths. 
Account for waste. Only get three from 8 ft or 4 from 10 ft.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Usually they have 2x2 pickets around 40 inches and are better quality than buying lengths.
> Account for waste. Only get three from 8 ft or 4 from 10 ft.


Id prefer the quality to be honest and probably easier to work with. I Will ask what they have. Do you think the shorter length will be better?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Id prefer the quality to be honest and probably easier to work with. I Will ask what they have. Do you think the shorter length will be better?


Yes, the mills do that. they cut up the worst junk and get the best pieces out of it. 
When you buy length you will have lots of waste but you can also adjust and cut out junk but it just more of a pain to deal with. 
For your replacement 2x4, if the posts and angles are a bit off. 
Install the good one first, wiggle the posts a little to get good fits, then just hole the 2x4 up the last one and draw the lines. at what ever angle it is.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, the mills do that. they cut up the worst junk and get the best pieces out of it.
> When you buy length you will have lots of waste but you can also adjust and cut out junk but it just more of a pain to deal with.
> For your replacement 2x4, if the posts and angles are a bit off.
> Install the good one first, wiggle the posts a little to get good fits, then just hole the 2x4 up the last one and draw the lines. at what ever angle it is.
> View attachment 695949


The fits are pretty good just off within that half 8th the fit is good at level though. Thank you going to grab everything now.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, the mills do that. they cut up the worst junk and get the best pieces out of it.
> When you buy length you will have lots of waste but you can also adjust and cut out junk but it just more of a pain to deal with.
> For your replacement 2x4, if the posts and angles are a bit off.
> Install the good one first, wiggle the posts a little to get good fits, then just hole the 2x4 up the last one and draw the lines. at what ever angle it is.
> View attachment 695949


Think I should grab 50 40" just incase i get a few bad ones? or just go with the 48 for now


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, the mills do that. they cut up the worst junk and get the best pieces out of it.
> When you buy length you will have lots of waste but you can also adjust and cut out junk but it just more of a pain to deal with.
> For your replacement 2x4, if the posts and angles are a bit off.
> Install the good one first, wiggle the posts a little to get good fits, then just hole the 2x4 up the last one and draw the lines. at what ever angle it is.
> View attachment 695949


Just got back with everything I needed to get the 8 foot pickets unfortunate. Also got the clamp and a really straight 2x4 to measure off of.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, the mills do that. they cut up the worst junk and get the best pieces out of it.
> When you buy length you will have lots of waste but you can also adjust and cut out junk but it just more of a pain to deal with.
> For your replacement 2x4, if the posts and angles are a bit off.
> Install the good one first, wiggle the posts a little to get good fits, then just hole the 2x4 up the last one and draw the lines. at what ever angle it is.
> View attachment 695949


I made the cut again and it honestly seems the same bit off. Would that be the lines i drew for the post are slightly off? I am not worried about it the fit is good just off some the posts are level at the fit. Im going to measure them now but It also seems like one of my tread noses might be longer.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, the mills do that. they cut up the worst junk and get the best pieces out of it.
> When you buy length you will have lots of waste but you can also adjust and cut out junk but it just more of a pain to deal with.
> For your replacement 2x4, if the posts and angles are a bit off.
> Install the good one first, wiggle the posts a little to get good fits, then just hole the 2x4 up the last one and draw the lines. at what ever angle it is.
> View attachment 695949


Noticing a gap between the 2x4 and the tread even with the straight 2x4 I found that one tread nose is 3/16 to wide and one is 1/8 or so shorter. The difference appears to be in the selected 2x6 boards. Could this be what is putting me off just about that much?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I made the cut again and it honestly seems the same bit off. Would that be the lines i drew for the post are slightly off? I am not worried about it the fit is good just off some the posts are level at the fit. Im going to measure them now but It also seems like one of my tread noses might be longer.


Measure from the riser cut on the stringers to the post would be more accurate. I am not sure I would spend too much time worrying about it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Noticing a gap between the 2x4 and the tread even with the straight 2x4 I found that one tread nose is 3/16 to wide and one is 1/8 or so shorter. The difference appears to be in the selected 2x6 boards. Could this be what is putting me off just about that much?


Yes, that would do it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure from the riser cut on the stringers to the post would be more accurate. I am not sure I would spend too much time worrying about it.


Im not worried about it honestly just means i will need to cut the pickets based on the longer end right?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes, that would do it.


Can i take those 2 treads off then? I have some extra i could replace with im not even sure that will be thinner though. Most of my 2x6 treads are right on 5 1/2" a few are 1/8" wider.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Can i take those 2 treads off then? I have some extra i could replace with im not even sure that will be thinner though. Most of my 2x6 treads are right on 5 1/2" a few are 1/8" wider.


We took the measurements off the 2x6 so the posts should be the right height. But because you have some wider treads the posts could be all off on location Just go with what you measured at the 2x6 up top. 
You measured 2 posts a 67 1/4 apart, post to 2x6 should also be 67 1/4 if everything was perfect.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Measure this
> View attachment 695634
> 
> 
> Are the posts 4x4 or 3 1/2x 3 1/2"


Ok so I went back to check all of this.. For some reason that single corner out of all of my treads is way off. All of them except the 2 others I mentioned are right on 1 1/4" the other corner of this one is just one 1 1/4" however.. The corner that we measured off of is ony 3/4" i needed to measure it 5 times to make sure I was seeing that right. That single corner is way off is what im getting off. Probably another reason why. I am fine moving forward if it is what it is but Happy to try an fix this.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok so I went back to check all of this.. For some reason that single corner out of all of my treads is way off. All of them except the 2 others I mentioned are right on 1 1/4" the other corner of this one is just one 1 1/4" however.. The corner that we measured off of is ony 3/4" i needed to measure it 5 times to make sure I was seeing that right. That single corner is way off is what im getting off. Probably another reason why. I am fine moving forward if it is what it is but Happy to try an fix this.


We were working off the nose, have you checked all three the distance from the riser cut?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We were working off the nose, have you checked all three the distance from the riser cut?
> View attachment 695973


Im not sure what the 3rd measurement is this is what tread 8 is though and its not the same as the measurements at the top. Top tread measurement nose to post is 6 3/4 and riser to post is 5 1/2"
Edit: starting to get confused trying to compare all of these things.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Im not sure what the 3rd measurement is this is what tread 8 is though and its not the same as the measurements at the top. Top tread measurement nose to post is 6 3/4 and riser to post is 5 1/2"


Give me all information. Don't leave me guessing.
Riser cut to 2x6?
Riser cut to #8 post?
Riser cut to bottom post?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Give me all information. Don't leave me guessing.
> Riser cut to 2x6?
> Riser cut to #8 post?
> Riser cut to bottom post?


riser to 2x6 is 5 1/2" 
riser cut to #8 post is 5 7/32 and 
riser to bottom post is 5 4/32 5 1/ 8"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Give me all information. Don't leave me guessing.
> Riser cut to 2x6?
> Riser cut to #8 post?
> Riser cut to bottom post?


Details in message above and I am sorry though really not sure why this piece is confusing me so much. Kind of been off the past few days otherwise but not really sure. Sometimes I have a really hard time getting things to work in my head but when they do its like a firework going off


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> riser to 2x6 is 5 1/2"
> riser cut to #8 post is 5 7/32 and
> riser to bottom post is 5 4/32 5 1/ 8"


How do you feel about moving them both to 5 1/2. 
The 2x4s would be a bit short but you will be screwing them to a picket, so still usable, just not as pretty.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Details in message above and I am sorry though really not sure why this piece is confusing me so much. Kind of been off the past few days otherwise but not really sure. Sometimes I have a really hard time getting things to work in my head but when they do its like a firework going off


I should have had you place the posts measuring from the riser cut. 
The nose measurement were way off because the treads are drying and shrinking, I am used to doing it all in a few hours and never thought of the extra time would allow so much shrinkage,


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How do you feel about moving them both to 5 1/2.
> The 2x4s would be a bit short but you will be screwing them to a picket, so still usable, just not as pretty.


Happy to move them honestly. Whatever you think is best and I want to do it right to the best extent of my ability. I havent cut all of the 2x4s yet and I got an extra one today just incase. Each little mistake when it comes back around I am happy to learn something new at least. Sorry to be a pain.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I should have had you place the posts measuring from the riser cut.
> The nose measurement were way off because the treads are drying and shrinking, I am used to doing it all in a few hours and never thought of the extra time would allow so much shrinkage,


I honestly think some of the quality of wood at the local lumber can be lower/whats available. The stuff I got from lowes in the fall I did not seem to have so much issue with. I also think I could go through the whole process much more quickly now. I know I am slow on these things but I do have some ability to pick up pace when needed. I am learning many things at once honestly. Its not just the stairs its about proper use of tools, jigs, measuring, angles, holding things in place, learning about the wood and how it acts. I mean so much goes into this haha. I feel proud at the end though and nobody ever said it would be easy... Except for me when I first started before you messaged me about how much of a fool I was.* Thank you again for working with me though.*


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I should have had you place the posts measuring from the riser cut.
> The nose measurement were way off because the treads are drying and shrinking, I am used to doing it all in a few hours and never thought of the extra time would allow so much shrinkage,


Probably take me an hour to move these into place properly. Once I get them in place I will message you again but it is just rinse and repeat the steps I was doing before? 
One other thing. Should I move the 2 treads that are different for the 2x4 placement and measurements when drawing the line for the rail the difference in the heighs from post to long/short to rail seems to be off by about what the difference those 2 treads put the 2x4 off by.?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Probably take me an hour to move these into place properly. Once I get them in place I will message you again but it is just rinse and repeat the steps I was doing before?
> One other thing. Should I move the 2 treads that are different for the 2x4 placement and measurements when drawing the line for the rail the difference in the heighs from post to long/short to rail seems to be off by about what the difference those 2 treads put the 2x4 off by.?


If you move the posts to the right place, then we can trust the 26"? measurement at the 2x6 to be right for all. 
Then you could cut the pickets and install the 4 pickets to the posts and with those in place you should be able to just measure for the 2x4 long to short and cut with the jig.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you move the posts to the right place, then we can trust the 26"? measurement at the 2x6 to be right for all.
> Then you could cut the pickets and install the 4 pickets to the posts and with those in place you should be able to just measure for the 2x4 long to short and cut with the jig.


So i should measure 5 1/2 from the end of each nose? I measured each 5 1/2 from the riser. Only got one in so far with the other lines drawn. I am looking for the height of the bottom post at the moment. Easy enough to fix again though I just want it right. Im not sure about the 26 until its in place but it sounds right.
Edit: the measurement for 5 1/2 at the top is from post to riser so those are equal i think.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> So i should measure 5 1/2 from the end of each nose? I measured each 5 1/2 from the riser. Only got one in so far with the other lines drawn. I am looking for the height of the bottom post at the moment. Easy enough to fix again though I just want it right. Im not sure about the 26 until its in place but it sounds right.
> Edit: the measurement for 5 1/2 at the top is from post to riser so those are equal i think.


No quit with the nose already we know they are wrong ,,,,,,5 1/2" from the saw cut to to the post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No quit with the nose already we know they are wrong ,,,,,,5 1/2" from the saw cut to to the post.
> 
> View attachment 695989


Thats what I had done sorry. Everything is set now. 5 1/2" line up and level about to test the cut i made today


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No quit with the nose already we know they are wrong ,,,,,,5 1/2" from the saw cut to to the post.
> 
> View attachment 695989


Its closer but still off some for that 26" measurement. less though.
Edit: if that is good then i can line up the pickets on the post and connect the rail to the lower end. Not 100% clear on the jig I am making for the 2x2 but a basic understanding.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its closer but still off some for that 26" measurement. less though.


You are back checking it against the noses and we know the noses are wrong, so we can't trust that., 
Just trust the 26"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You are back checking it against the noses and we know the noses are wrong, so we can't trust that.,
> Just trust the 26"


when i get the piece in the rail measures 26 inch on one side and 25 3/4" or slightly more so 26 works all the way.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You are back checking it against the noses and we know the noses are wrong, so we can't trust that.,
> Just trust the 26"


I think im good to put the 2x2 onto the posts and attach things also working on figuring out the jig looks straightforward just gotta get that angle right.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> when i get the piece in the rail measures 26 inch on one side and 25 3/4" or slightly more so 26 works all the way.


No you are measuring down from an angle it should be the same up and down at the same angle as the top of the post.










LearningTrades said:


> I think im good to put the 2x2 onto the posts and attach things also working on figuring out the jig looks straightforward just gotta get that angle right.


It should be the 7 11/32 angle jig for top and bottom of the pickets. 
Only cut 26 for them.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No you are measuring down from an angle it should be the same up and down at the same angle as the top of the post.
> View attachment 695992
> 
> 
> ...


26 is the bottom or top short/long of the angle cut sorry


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> 26 is the bottom or top short/long of the angle cut sorry


Long to short so you can build the jig with two jigs the same angle with the saw cuts 26" apart and cut both ends 
You can double check the angle of the post angles with a level and square. 








And the pickets should have the same angle.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Long to short so you can build the jig with two jigs the same angle with the saw cuts 26" apart and cut both ends
> You can double check the angle of the post angles with a level and square.
> View attachment 696003
> 
> And the pickets should have the same angle.


Awesome. Im going to get thos first 4 done and get the rails in. Guessing the rest of the process will take we alot of the day tomorrow. I think I pretty much have this part down now though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome. Im going to get thos first 4 done and get the rails in. Guessing the rest of the process will take we alot of the day tomorrow. I think I pretty much have this part down now though.


Jig for pickets??


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Jig for pickets??
> View attachment 696015


O awesome, My brain possibly could have figured it out without this but doubtful. Thankyou. I will let you know how its going .


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The first 4 pickets.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The first 4 pickets.
> View attachment 696017


Glad you pointed out the spot on that last one with the measurements.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The first 4 pickets.
> View attachment 696017


Do I still need the angle for the pickets on the top platform? or is that only for the stairs. Probably a dumb question.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Do I still need the angle for the pickets on the top platform? or is that only for the stairs. Probably a dumb question.


No, you are just cutting pickets for the stairs on an angle.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Jig for pickets??
> View attachment 696015


Took me a while to get the jig together I think its ready now I just need to adjust one piece over a tiny bit to 26" i checked the angle against the post though and it looks great.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No, you are just cutting pickets for the stairs on an angle.


Figured it was a dumb question just got back to you about the jig and the angle though think everything is good here is the pictures again


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Figured it was a dumb question just got back to you about the jig and the angle though think everything is good here is the pictures again


I roughly figured 26 pickets but you have the jig to cut more if needed I would cut 24 for now. 
If you still have to cut 2x4s you can use this jig for that too.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Figured it was a dumb question just got back to you about the jig and the angle though think everything is good here is the pictures again


Now I am solid to get the first 4 2x2s on the posts in and get everything up  I am excited lol. I need to cut the 8 foot pieces to length 30 inches easiest to work with? or could do the full 32


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I roughly figured 26 pickets but you have the jig to cut more if needed I would cut 24 for now.
> If you still have to cut 2x4s you can use this jig for that too.


The platform pickets will be 29 1/2" i think the space between the 2x4 rails on the platform is 28 1/4 or so was it supposed to be different? I know it doesnt matter just curious if I made another error that I dont need to worry about.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The platform pickets will be 29 1/2" i think the space between the 2x4 rails on the platform is 28 1/4 or so was it supposed to be different? I know it doesnt matter just curious if I made another error that I dont need to worry about.


The pickets on the deck will include the 2x4s top and bottom so they should be about 36" or close to 36
If you cut 2 angled ones from an 8 foot piece you will have enough left for a 36" piece for the deck. 
So if you rough cut at 30, 30 and save the 36, less waste.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The pickets on the deck will include the 2x4s top and bottom so they should be about 36" or close to 36
> If you cut 2 angled ones from an 8 foot piece you will have enough left for a 36" piece for the deck.
> So if you rough cut at 30, 30 and save the 36, less waste.


Cool I have that at 35 5/8" or so then if that works


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Cool I have that at 35 5/8" or so then if that works


Maybe cut 12 or 13 of them first , just square cuts. at 35 5/8" one from each 8 tooter.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Maybe cut 12 or 13 of them first , just square cuts. at 35 5/8" one from each 8 tooter.


Sounds good. I will do that. Im guessing it will be a few hours zoning out before I get back to reply. Hope to actually post some good updates this time


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Maybe cut 12 or 13 of them first , just square cuts. at 35 5/8" one from each 8 tooter.


where the 2x2 goes onto the top post for the short section of rail its in an odd spot. the screws will either be very close to the edge or right in the space that goes between the 2x6 an post. I dont want to split anything with screws so i figured I would ask. Im guessing angles maybe but not 100%.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> where the 2x2 goes onto the top post for the short section of rail its in an odd spot. the screws will either be very close to the edge or right in the space that goes between the 2x6 an post. I dont want to split anything with screws so i figured I would ask. Im guessing angles maybe but not 100%.












??


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 696119
> 
> 
> ??


The post by the house is slightly off line with this that gap between the drawing and the rail is where it is straight


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 696119
> 
> 
> ??


Sending some pictures of the base by the deck. 
Also I have the first 2 pickets on the posts. Was I supposed to use a longer 2x2 piece for where it meets the post? I have enough room with the rail and the picket set up like this to put one maybe 2 screws in put it does meet the whole rail


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The post by the house is slightly off line with this that gap between the drawing and the rail is where it is straight


Pretend you didn't see that and just screw it to the 2x6 like I showed.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sending some pictures of the base by the deck.
> Also I have the first 2 pickets on the posts. Was I supposed to use a longer 2x2 piece for where it meets the post? I have enough room with the rail and the picket set up like this to put one maybe 2 screws in put it does meet the whole rail


The posts look good the one on the 2x6 at the top same picket just up to the line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The first 4 pickets.
> View attachment 696017


I think I need to make these first 4 slightly longer they come right to the top of the 2x4 rail so I really cant screw in


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think I need to make these first 4 slightly longer they come right to the top of the 2x4 rail so I really cant screw in


So are you saying 26" does not cover both top and bottom rail. then they are all to short.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So are you saying 26" does not cover both top and bottom rail. then they are all to short.


I have only cut these 2 so far I like to be careful until I am sure. Do they go like this or parallel? Either way the piece I have cut does not fit them though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have only cut these 2 so far


I don't under stand what is to short. 
You laid a 2x4 on the flat up the noses and at the top you measured up 26" to the line on the 2x6?
Show me what is short.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I don't under stand what is to short.
> You laid a 2x4 on the flat up the noses and at the top you measured up 26" to the line on the 2x6?
> Show me what is short.


I have a nose that sticks out further and kept the 2x4 from being fully flat. Its at the lines and the pickets end at the lines but the 2x4 is below the lines I was measuring from the top of the 2x4 to the top of the post was I suppose to measure to the bottom of the 2x4 rail? Really sorry for being confusing Not sure why these little things just wont click in my head.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have a nose that sticks out further and kept the 2x4 from being fully flat. Its at the lines and the pickets end at the lines but the 2x4 is below the lines I was measuring from the top of the 2x4 to the top of the post was I suppose to measure to the bottom of the 2x4 rail?


the 2x4 will attack to those pickets flush bottom to bottom and the 2x4 will be about 1 1/2" away from the treads.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> the 2x4 will attack to those pickets flush bottom to bottom and the 2x4 will be about 1 1/2" away from the treads.
> View attachment 696140


The line I drew on your drawing is where the 2x4 and the 2x2 currently meet I don't have all of that extra space at 1 1/2" and with the current picket length. Again really sorry I am trying my best to make it clear.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The line I drew on your drawing is where the 2x4 and the 2x2 currently meet I don't have all of that extra space at 1 1/2" and with the current picket length. Again really sorry I am trying my best to make it clear.


Did you lift the 2x4 so the bottom of it matches the bottom of the bottom of the picket?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> The line I drew on your drawing is where the 2x4 and the 2x2 currently meet I don't have all of that extra space at 1 1/2" and with the current picket length. Again really sorry I am trying my best to make it clear.


Everything is coming in right about 1 1/2" above the tread. Seems like the picket length is off by about the width of the 2x4. Was I supposed to add the width of the 2x4 into the picket length?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did you lift the 2x4 so the bottom of it matches the bottom of the bottom of the picket?
> View attachment 696146


When I do this its at 3-4 inches instead of 1 1/2


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did you lift the 2x4 so the bottom of it matches the bottom of the bottom of the picket?
> View attachment 696146


This is how it sits when I match the top the bottom is off and it also sits high I really feel like I need to take the tread thats more then the others off to lay the 2x4 flat enough to get the right measurement on the other rails atleast.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> This is how it sits when I match the top the bottom is off and it also sits high I really feel like I need to take the tread thats more then the others off to lay the 2x4 flat enough to get the right measurement on the other rails atleast.


Show me how you first measured from a flat 2x4 to the line and got 26"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Show me how you first measured from a flat 2x4 to the line and got 26"


was I not measuring putting the rail on top to measure from. I was measuring from the top of the 2x4 rail sitting on top of the flat 2x4. Ill get a photo though


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

oops


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> was I not measuring putting the rail on top to measure from. I was measuring from the top of the 2x4 rail sitting on top of the flat 2x4. Ill get a photo though


Then will you please go up to the top and lay a 2x4 flat on the noses and measure from that 2x4 on the flat top where it meets the 2x6 and measure up to the line. And please tell me what you read, If you read 26" take a picture of the 2x4?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then will you please go up to the top and lay a 2x4 flat on the noses and measure from that 2x4 on the flat top where it meets the 2x6 and measure up to the line. And please tell me what you read, If you read 26" take a picture of the 2x4?


Yes sir really am sorry for being dumb. Here it is I am getting 30- 30 1/4" or slightly more depending on the post. Guessing the differences in noses are making up that difference though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> The line I drew on your drawing is where the 2x4 and the 2x2 currently meet I don't have all of that extra space at 1 1/2" and with the current picket length. Again really sorry I am trying my best to make it clear.


I also realized that I sent the wrong image. this is how i got my measurement


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir really am sorry for being dumb. Here it is I am getting 30- 30 1/4" or slightly more depending on the post. Guessing the differences in noses are making up that difference though.


So when you measured it, you were so worried about the noses you missed the detail i asked for. 
Your pickets be be 30" crap happens.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I also realized that I sent the wrong image. this is how i got my measurement


I know how you get the measurement, i figured that some time ago.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So when you measured it, you were so worried about the noses you missed the detail i asked for.
> Your pickets be be 30" crap happens.


Sorry I can be like that honestly Glad I only made a couple cuts again really sorry.. Small details can be really hard for me to pick up on. Honestly the amount you are able to show me over the internet no videos no in person is nothing short of incredible in my mind. I typically cant ever learn something without somebody directly showing me. Its a struggle. Part of that is why accomplishing this with you means so much to me. Its far outside of what I have found myself capable of in the past.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry I can be like that honestly Glad I only made a couple cuts again really sorry.. Small details can be really hard for me to pick up on. Honestly the amount you are able to show me over the internet no videos no in person is nothing short of incredible in my mind. I typically cant ever learn something without somebody directly showing me. Its a struggle. Part of that is why accomplishing this with you means so much to me. Its far outside of what I have found myself capable of in the past.


With the long and short the total length will be close to 32", you may not want to do the rough cutting you were talking about. If you have cut some of the 36" ones, that plan won't work any more.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> With the long and short the total length will be close to 32", you may not want to do the rough cutting you were talking about. If you have cut some of the 36" ones, that plan won't work any more.


I havent cut anything else yet. Just adjusted the jig. I messed up the 2x4 attached to it. its good right now but I will need to recut it if I move any further I am at 29 15/16 for the picket length. Honestly dont mind cutting the new piece just want to make sure its worth it first.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I havent cut anything else yet. Just adjusted the jig. I messed up the 2x4 attached to it. its good right now but I will need to recut it if I move any further I am at 29 15/16 for the picket length. Honestly dont mind cutting the new piece just want to make sure its worth it first.


29 15/16 between saw cut jigs will work, you will loose one saw blade thickness so you will have 29 3/4 about, If you are sure that is what you have I think that will work.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 29 15/16 between saw cut jigs will work, you will loose one saw blade thickness so you will have 29 3/4 about, If you are sure that is what you have I think that will work.


Pretty positive now with correct meaurements. If its better safe then sorry i can muster up the extra 2x4 and redo the jig it wont take long especially considering the alternative of the cut. The practice cut one of my old dry ones that are straight to check the measurement and it was 29 15/16 after cutting so I think thats what they should all be Unless i am confusing myself again


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Pretty positive now with correct meaurements. If its better safe then sorry i can muster up the extra 2x4 and redo the jig it wont take long especially considering the alternative of the cut. The practice cut one of my old dry ones that are straight to check the measurement and it was 29 15/16 after cutting so I think thats what they should all be Unless i am confusing myself again


That sounds good, you just never allowed for the saw blade for the one cut, but i won't tell anyone.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That sounds good, you just never allowed for the saw blade for the one cut, but i won't tell anyone.


Much appreciated hahaha


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That sounds good, you just never allowed for the saw blade for the one cut, but i won't tell anyone.


Alrighty i have the first 2 pickets attached at the proper length and the first rail clamped in place. It is off by a decent little bit on the bottom when i put it flush with the top. I know we talked about just pushing through the error though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Alrighty i have the first 2 pickets attached at the proper length and the first rail clamped in place. It is off by a decent little bit on the bottom when i put it flush with the top. I know we talked about just pushing through the error though.


Try that on the other section. Is it the same, better or worse.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Try that on the other section. Is it the same, better or worse.


Ok so it appears that the distance is about the same however.. on the middle post at the 8th tread the bottom side is going the other way. so same distance but instead of poking out it pokes in. It slipped a tiny bit when i took the picture so it looks more off then it is in this one. I would say it really is just about the same. error but more up then down


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok so it appears that the distance is about the same however.. on the middle post at the 8th tread the bottom side is going the other way. so same distance but instead of poking out it pokes in. It slipped a tiny bit when i took the picture so it looks more off then it is in this one. I would say it really is just about the same. error but more up then down


Take that 2x4 and hold it up beside the center post on the outs side and see if the angle matches the angle of the top of the post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take that 2x4 and hold it up beside the center post on the outs side and see if the angle matches the angle of the top of the post.
> View attachment 696180


the angles do match the post


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> the angles do match the post


So what happens when you hold the 2x4 up in the top rail position? 
When you it it clamped in place did the angle fit to the post?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So what happens when you hold the 2x4 up in the top rail position?
> When you it it clamped in place did the angle fit to the post?


The angles fit the post well when it was in place Just off slightly on one side where we wanted it. I will check the top rail postion.
Edit: the angle is not off just the position.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So what happens when you hold the 2x4 up in the top rail position?
> When you it it clamped in place did the angle fit to the post?


The top rail has the same difference as the bottom


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The top rail has the same difference as the bottom


I think it might be that the post is to high by that much. If the picket was that much lower, but how would that effect the next section. 
Are we having fun yet?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think it might be that the post is to high by that much. If the picket was that much lower, but how would that effect the next section.
> Are we having fun yet?


Haha im enjoying ruling things out honestly. Trying to figure this problem out the past 2 days drove me crazy lol but I am enjoying myself now. So you think the top put is just slightly high?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Haha im enjoying ruling things out honestly. Trying to figure this problem out the past 2 days drove me crazy lol but I am enjoying myself now. So you think the top put is just slightly high?


If you this again and extend a line round and down on the angle, then you could see how the 2x4 will fit on the next section. The lower post could be wrong too.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you this again and extend a line round and down on the angle, then you could see how the 2x4 will fit on the next section. The lower post could be wrong too.
> View attachment 696181


I know I am getting back to those silly noses lol laugh at me and call me dumb if I am being but the way the 2x4 sat on that long one and the short one at the bottom is just about this distance off when combined together. I am going to do this angle as you asked while this question goes through.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If you this again and extend a line round and down on the angle, then you could see how the 2x4 will fit on the next section. The lower post could be wrong too.
> View attachment 696181


Got that angle might not be 100% perfect but really close.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Got that angle might not be 100% perfect but really close.


Move you 2x4 to the lower section and see how it fits to that line. 
You have moved the posts so that 2x4 may not be the right length but we just want to see what it looks like, as in does that make it look right?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Move you 2x4 to the lower section and see how it fits to that line.
> You have moved the posts so that 2x4 may not be the right length but we just want to see what it looks like, as in does that make it look right?


Sorry which 2x4 am I moving? the rail? I drew that line from the bottom edge of the 2x4 to show the difference between the 2 or do you mean the flat 2x4 we measured off of? Just kind of confused.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry which 2x4 am I moving? the rail? I drew that line from the bottom edge of the 2x4 to show the difference between the 2 or do you mean the flat 2x4 we measured off of? Just kind of confused.


Yes the rail 2x4 hold it in the lower position on the other side of the post to that lower line and does it seem to fit with the stairs.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes the rail 2x4 hold it in the lower position on the other side of the post to that lower line and does it seem to fit with the stairs.


I genuinely dont get what I am doing. I moved it to the outside and fit the line but this doesnt seem right


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes the rail 2x4 hold it in the lower position on the other side of the post to that lower line and does it seem to fit with the stairs.


Sorry.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I genuinely dont get what I am doing. I moved it to the outside and fit the line but this doesnt seem right


Sorry I thoiught that was the 8 post that you were showing me. 
Try this. on both posts measure down from the short side of the post to the saw cut on the stringer. 
It should be the same as from the line down on the 2x6 up top.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry.


I was on the wrong post .


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Sorry I thoiught that was the 8 post that you were showing me.
> Try this. on both posts measure down from the short side of the post to the saw cut on the stringer.
> It should be the same as from the line down on the 2x6 up top.
> View attachment 696191


Not your fault hard to work off of photos like Ive said before not sure how you manage its impressive also getting tired part of my confusion lol.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

I think we


Nealtw said:


> I was on the wrong post .


I think we have our answer. Top and bottom post pretty much right on. Middle post is off by 13/32" 
Edit: that is about 2/3rds of the difference in the line i drew on the bottom post The bottom post could also be just a tiny tiny bit low. Like nothing but with the middle post off maybe enough for the last difference.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think we
> 
> I think we have our answer. Top and bottom post pretty much right on. Middle post is off by 13/32"
> Edit: that is about 2/3rds of the difference in the line i drew on the bottom post The bottom post could also be just a tiny tiny bit low. Like nothing but with the middle post off maybe enough for the last difference.


Do you have a 2x4 that fits from the center post up to the 2x6. I would like to start there and work down.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a 2x4 that fits from the center post up to the 2x6. I would like to start there in work down.


Yes sir the one I have fits well it has the reverse difference though. As in instead of the bottom being to low it is to high if I am remembering correctly. The angles fit though. Will dropping the post down that 13/32nd make the difference?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir the one I have fits well it has the reverse difference though. As in instead of the bottom being to low it is to high if I am remembering correctly. The angles fit though. Will dropping the post down that 13/32nd make the difference?


I am thinking if you put a picket on the top 2x6 and then attach the 2x4 to it at the 2x6 and then do the picket on the the middle post to fit the 2x4 at the lower height. 









Will that work?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am thinking if you put a picket on the top 2x6 and then attach the 2x4 to it at the 2x6 and then do the picket on the the middle post to fit the 2x4 at the lower height.
> View attachment 696196
> 
> 
> Will that work?


I have all 4 pickets we need in. I'm going to drop the picket to meet the 2x4 rail instead of the post is what you mean (just saw it in the photo)? As much as I want to I cant really cut or drill right now. I can take any measurements, clamp, etc. My neighbors are way too nice to disturb and it was me that moved into their little community so I really try not to be a bother. Is a board going over the top of the posts? only asking because if the middle post is to high will it sit right if we are? If not I am good I am honestly not sure and just thought to ask.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir the one I have fits well it has the reverse difference though. As in instead of the bottom being to low it is to high if I am remembering correctly. The angles fit though. Will dropping the post down that 13/32nd make the difference?


I am sure you have a scrap of 2x4 with that same angle on it to extend that line to the lower side of the middle post to install a picket.










LearningTrades said:


> I have all 4 pickets we need in. I'm going to drop the picket to meet the 2x4 rail instead of the post is what you mean? As much as I want to I cant really cut or drill right now. I can take any measurements, clamp, etc. My neighbors are way too nice to disturb and it was me that moved into their little community so I really try not to be a bother. Is a board going over the top of the posts? only asking because if the middle post is to high will it sit right if we are? If not I am good I am honestly not sure and just thought to ask.


Yes the top would need to be cut, 
There is another way if you have the 2x4 screwed in up at the 2x6 and have block or something to support the lower end and and leave the picket on the middle post and mover the post toward the deck until it fit to the 2x4, then the 2x4 will be to long but the angles will be right. 
Then you would do the same for the lower post and after you have that fit to the right height you can move it up and closer to make the 2x4 length work, That might make that post more short than it is already, but after you have it all worked out you could measure and cut a new from that other post you have.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I am sure you have a scrap of 2x4 with that same angle on it to extend that line to the lower side of the middle post to install a picket.
> View attachment 696197
> 
> 
> ...


Yes sir I can find a 2x4 piece that has the angle. I think I am mostly understanding but I think I will need to go through all of this in the morning to get It right. Curious if it would mess up the angle to remove the middle post and cut the 13/32 with saw blade taken into account at the same angle. Pretty sure I still have everything set up to cut the posts at that angle. My mind says that will but the angle off but I want to ask.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir I can find a 2x4 piece that has the angle. I think I am mostly understanding but I think I will need to go through all of this in the morning to get It right. Curious if it would mess up the angle to remove the middle post and cut the 13/32 with saw blade taken into account at the same angle. Pretty sure I still have everything set up to cut the posts at that angle. My mind says that will but the angle off but I want to ask.


that should work, 
You know more experience is gained from fixing things like this, You will be able to say, you have lots of experience building stairs.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> that should work,
> You know more experience is gained from fixing things like this, You will be able to say, you have lots of experience building stairs.


I feel like I am starting to see things better and enough to know how little I know. It still kind of blows my mind how the tiny tiny difference add up and a few slips here and a board or post moving slightly when screwing or slip with measuring ends up with. I also really like to see the different solutions and the step by step going through checking what could be wrong with this. I should say that working with this stuff starting with the deck platform in the fall has given me the confidence to do other stuff as well. my toilet cracked and I replaced that let me tell you I did not have fun with that but it was satisfying to finish. Replaced a faucet that broke, changed a dryer outlet to the proper specification and wall installation and the stair project has also helped me have a better relationship with my neighbors. They are all older and its a curiosity for them I guess maybe they always offer advice and tools if I dont have something.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> that should work,
> You know more experience is gained from fixing things like this, You will be able to say, you have lots of experience building stairs.


cutting the post down 13/32-saw blade wont mess the angle up? didnt want to put this question mixed in with my long message lol.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> cutting the post down 13/32-saw blade wont mess the angle up? didnt want to put this question mixed in with my long message lol.


If the jig is on the post you don't have to allow for the blade no.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If the jig is on the post you don't have to allow for the blade no.


Letting my brain get ahead of myself lol. Just tired. As always glad you said it. My brain knows that


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Letting my brain get ahead of myself lol. Just tired. As always glad you said it. My brain knows that


Lets start at the top Hold the 2x4 up to the line on the upper 2x6 at the correct angle and mark the post. 
Extend that line around the post carefully and hold the 2x4 there to check or mark the lowest post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If the jig is on the post you don't have to allow for the blade no.


Have a goodnight I will let you know how that stuff goes in the morning. Thank you


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Lets start at the top Hold the 2x4 up to the line on the upper 2x6 at the correct angle and mark the post.
> Extend that line around the post carefully and hold the 2x4 there to check or mark the lowest post.
> View attachment 696205


Just wanted to clarify before I do much of anything on a couple things. 
1. Was the plan to take the 4x4 post off and cut 13/32" part of any of this plan?
2. For this image I am placing the 2x4 at the 2x6, allowing it to rest at the proper angle drawing those line and adjusting the picket to the proper location. Then I use said lines to place the next 2x4 rail at the level and do the same measurements and drawings on the lower post. 

A 3rd thing I am running into is a slight issue with the post we installed in the fall. It is sitting flat on its notch but plumb is not perfect on this post. So I installed the top rail and then using the same measurements cut another. Since the post is not plumb but is sitting flat on its notch I cant really move it to adjust the level to make both sections of rail the same. Could I add a shim or something to adjust the notched post slightly? Its being held by a couple of screws and a carriage bolt at the moment. I know this is a really small thing but I just wanted your thoughts.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Just wanted to clarify before I do much of anything on a couple things.
> 1. Was the plan to take the 4x4 post off and cut 13/32" part of any of this plan?
> 2. For this image I am placing the 2x4 at the 2x6, allowing it to rest at the proper angle drawing those line and adjusting the picket to the proper location. Then I use said lines to place the next 2x4 rail at the level and do the same measurements and drawings on the lower post.
> 
> A 3rd thing I am running into is a slight issue with the post we installed in the fall. It is sitting flat on its notch but plumb is not perfect on this post. So I installed the top rail and then using the same measurements cut another. Since the post is not plumb but is sitting flat on its notch I cant really move it to adjust the level to make both sections of rail the same. Could I add a shim or something to adjust the notched post slightly? Its being held by a couple of screws and a carriage bolt at the moment. I know this is a really small thing but I just wanted your thoughts.


You could shim it over, but you are thinking about to many things, when you have a problem, there ain't nothing else to think about, then you forget the details and where you are with the problem at hand. That is true for for everyone not just you. 
Yes when you do the top we are hoping what you find on the top 2x4 agrees with what you found with the bottom 2x4. 
The amount to cut off should be the same when checking top and bottom or we have a different problem.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You could shim it over, but you are thinking about to many things, when you have a problem, there ain't nothing else to think about, then you forget the details and where you are with the problem at hand. That is true for for everyone not just you.
> Yes when you do the top we are hoping what you find on the top 2x4 agrees with what you found with the bottom 2x4.
> The amount to cut off should be the same when checking top and bottom or we have a different problem.


Ok awesome I will just focus on one thing at a time I honest have ADD lol I can get really distracted easily


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok awesome I will just focus on one thing at a time I honest have ADD lol I can get really distracted easily


I have noticed.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I have noticed.


Sorry lol im getting better about it slowly


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry lol im getting better about it slowly


Now you are spending time think about this? Remember what the job is.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Now you are spending time think about this? Remember what the job is.


Image_1345 is how it lines up with the middle post on the 8th tread when flush with the top line. Image1346 is the bottom post when flush with the top flush with the middle post. Not sure how to draw the line properly I will give it a go though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Image_1345 is how it lines up with the middle post on the 8th tread when flush with the top line. Image1346 is the bottom post when flush with the top flush with the middle post. Not sure how to draw the line properly I will give it a go though.


So the middle post how much to high is it there is that about the same as you measured at the bottom. 
It looks like if you cut the middle post the other one will be real close?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Now you are spending time think about this? Remember what the job is.


Ok i think i have everything right its almost even but slightly off. I think part of it is the bottom post jiggled away a slight bit, Sorry that first message was from awhile ago i never pressed send i guess.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So the middle post how much to high is it there is that about the same as you measured at the bottom.
> It looks like if you cut the middle post the other one will be real close?


I think that I mis spoke because the rail because line the rail up on the top between post 8 and the bottom post has the rail sticking up above the post.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think that I mis spoke because the rail because line the rail up on the top between post 8 and the bottom post has the rail sticking up above the post.


Do you have all 4 2x4s cut for these rails?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have all 4 2x4s cut for these rails?


I hadnt decided to cut them all yet I am set up to make the cuts quickly though


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I hadnt decided to cut them all yet I am set up to make the cuts quickly though


So you could move that lowest post a little further away and that would gain the height. Or raise it that bit.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So you could move that lowest post a little further away and that would gain the height. Or raise it that bit.


Ok I can do that. How do I fix this part. When I am lined up at the line on the 2x6 the bottom part of the rail that meets the 4x4 on the 8th tread is sticking up. Also my mind was saying that was what the cut would fix but now I can clearly see why that would not work lol.
Edit: the rails run high on the middle post on both sides. when following the lines I drew based on the rail being flush with the line we drew on the 2x6
both of these photos are the middle post from each side on the new lines.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok I can do that. How do I fix this part. When I am lined up at the line on the 2x6 the bottom part of the rail that meets the 4x4 on the 8th tread is sticking up. Also my mind was saying that was what the cut would fix but now I can clearly see why that would not work lol.
> Edit: the rails run high on the middle post on both sides. when following the lines I drew based on the rail being flush with the line we drew on the 2x6


This the one you cut?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> This the one you cut?


I havent cut it yet. I havent touched anything really since yesterday except for the measurements.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I havent cut it yet. I havent touched anything really since yesterday except for the measurements.


I think I am getting answers that don't match the question I was asking, I though the middle post was to high. 
I am going to ask you some questions one at a time.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bottom post is how far from the end of the stringer?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I think I am getting answers that don't match the question I was asking, I though the middle post was to high.
> I am going to ask you some questions one at a time.


Sorry. I thought it was to high also I am really sorry I think I told you about the measurements In reverse
1. The 2x6 line to stringer cut is 38 19/32" and the bottom post is basically the same.
The middle post is 38 3/16"


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Bottom post is how far from the end of the stringer?
> View attachment 696278


I think i understood what I messed up and what you are getting at I believe I provided the proper informaton above. Bottom post is 5 1/2" from the stringer


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Bottom post is how far from the end of the stringer?
> View attachment 696278


5 1/2"


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Do you have a chalk line or a string about 20 ft long?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a chalk line or a string about 20 ft long?


Ive been needing to grab one i can go get it not 100% sure tractor supply or the lumber yard will have one but I am pretty confident one will


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ive been needing to grab one i can go get it not 100% sure tractor supply or the lumber yard will have one but I am pretty confident one will


Get one.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Get one.


ill be back in about 10 minutes


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

1. The 2x6 line to stringer cut is 38 19/32" and the bottom post is basically the same.
The middle post is 38 3/16"
Measure the bottom in the exact same way.
Or from the level cut on the stringer to the short of the post
from the level cut on the stringer to the line on the 2x6


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 1. The 2x6 line to stringer cut is 38 19/32" and the bottom post is basically the same.
> The middle post is 38 3/16"
> Measure the bottom in the exact same way.


Sorry i think I am misunderstanding the measure the bottom do you mean bottom post that is also right at 38 19/32 give or take 1/32nd i cant get the tape right up next to the bottom one hard to read perfectly


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So the middle post how much to high is it there is that about the same as you measured at the bottom.
> It looks like if you cut the middle post the other one will be real close?


all of the posts are also at 5 1/2" from the stringer cut when on the level lines.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sorry i think I am misunderstanding the measure the bottom do you mean bottom post that is also right at 38 19/32 give or take 1/32nd i cant get the tape right up next to the bottom one hard to read perfectly


Do you have that string now?
I will draw something for you.
Do you have a scrap block of 2x4 with this angle on it?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have that string now?
> I will draw something for you.
> Do you have a scrap block of 2x4 with this angle on it?


I can find one for sure. I still have the jig set up at this angle also the one we used to measure.
I also have the chalk line


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have that string now?
> I will draw something for you.
> Do you have a scrap block of 2x4 with this angle on it?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I can find one for sure. I still have the jig set up at this angle also the one we used to measure.
> I also have the chalk line


On the bottom post and the 2x6 measure up 38 3/16 and mark them. with a quick square draw that line across the face of both.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Then use that scrap 2x4 to draw the angled line on the stair side of the post and the 2x6.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Then use that scrap 2x4 to draw the angled line on the stair side of the post and the 2x6.


like this?
Edit: think i fixed it the right way like this is what i need i think. bottom image is what i think is correct


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> like this?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> View attachment 696288





Nealtw said:


> View attachment 696288


Sorry I am a moron


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

We want a screw just in far enough to hook the string to.
Dead center of that angled line.
Hook the string on and got the bottom, pull it really tight lined up with the line on the lower post and see what the string looks like at the center post.
I can teach you how to tie the string but you should be able to see if it is good.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We want a screw just in far enough to hook the string to.
> Dead center of that angled line.
> Hook the string on and got the bottom, pull it really tight lined up with the line on the lower post and see what the string looks like at the center post.
> I can teach you how to tie the string but you should be able to see if it is good.
> View attachment 696291


Sounds good ill give it a go


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We want a screw just in far enough to hook the string to.
> Dead center of that angled line.
> Hook the string on and got the bottom, pull it really tight lined up with the line on the lower post and see what the string looks like at the center post.
> I can teach you how to tie the string but you should be able to see if it is good.
> View attachment 696291


=/ Ill be right back i didnt know that i needed to buy chalk separately lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> =/ Ill be right back i didnt know that i needed to buy chalk separately lol


We don't need chalk for this, just pull the string?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We don't need chalk for this, just pull the string?


ok sounds good


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We don't need chalk for this, just pull the string?


The middle post is not flush with the other 2. Man its leaning a decent bit also.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> The middle post is no flush with the other 2. Man its leaning a decent bit also.


Did you mean to say now or not flush. don't worry about the lean


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Did you mean to say now or not flush. don't worry about the lean


i meant to say not flush. The gap is about a half inch of the line and we can adjust that with the bolt later i am thinking? It is hard to tell where the line would meet the post though with the gap. i need something to hold the string on the bottom post. It seems pretty delicate.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> i meant to say not flush. The gap is about a half inch of the line and we can adjust that with the bolt later i am thinking? It is hard to tell where the line would meet the post though with the gap. i need something to hold the string on the bottom post. It seems pretty delicate.


Put a screw dead center of the new angled line in the bottom post and watch this video. 
An Easy Knot for Stringlines That Unties with a Tug - YouTube


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Put a screw dead center of the new angled line in the bottom post and watch this video.
> An Easy Knot for Stringlines That Unties with a Tug - YouTube


Heres what it looks like


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Heres what it looks like


Use that 2x4 block with the angle put it against the post and sneak it up to the string and see if it is lined up.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Use that 2x4 block with the angle put it against the post and sneak it up to the string and see if it is lined up.


Id say that is right on


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Id say that is right on


Done with the string. remove those screws I think, try the 2x4 to those lines and tell me they work please.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Done with the string. remove those screws I think, try the 2x4 to those lines and tell me they work please.


I would say that they fit perfectly at the top. The tiniest bit wonky at the bottom post but I am 99.9% sure that the bottom post just shifted a tiny bit away.
Edit: my eye says I am satisfied with that though.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I would say that they fit perfectly at the top. The tiniest bit wonky at the bottom post but I am 99.9% sure that the bottom post just shifted a tiny bit away.
> Edit: my eye says I am satisfied with that though.


So you can do one of the following, 
A Take the lower post off and cut it to the new line with the picket still attached and put it back and you will have the new length for the pickets.
B Or measure the new length for the picket and remove them and cut them and just lower the post that much. 

I like A better but what ever you like.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So you can do one of the following,
> A Take the lower post off and cut it to the new line with the picket still attached and put it back and you will have the new length for the pickets.
> B Or measure the new length for the picket and remove them and cut them and just lower the post that much.
> 
> I like A better but what ever you like.


Could i try dropping the bottom post? it is sitting on a block right now.I might even beable to measure the space first.
Edit: I have just under an inch of space to drop the bottom post down. The line is much less then that. no problem taking it off and making the cuts just wanted to ask.\
secon edit: sorry missed the detail at the end. I want to go with what you think is best. Nervous to make a cut on the post if I have another option though. Feel like I am more likely to mess that cut up then other things.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Could i try dropping the bottom post? it is sitting on a block right now.I might even beable to measure the space first.
> Edit: I have just under an inch of space to drop the bottom post down. The line is much less then that.


What was the measurement from the short to the stringer something and 3/16. drop it to that.
Leave the picket on, it wasn't much. just lower the top picket to the new line.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> What was the measurement from the short to the stringer something and 3/16. drop it to that.
> Leave the picket on, it wasn't much. just lower the top picket to the new line.


38 3/16
Getting it in


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> 38 3/16
> Getting it in


Had an important call come through about done though. I will adjust the top picket and double check the rails in all 4 locations. Will my pickets be longer by the difference between 19/32 and 6/32?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Had an important call come through about done though. I will adjust the top picket and double check the rails in all 4 locations. Will my pickets be longer by the difference between 19/32 and 6/32?


No, leave the pickets that length when you have time get some measurements so i can figure where the pickets go. 
Remember the level line, close like with in a 1/2" is good. 
Remember the shortest distance is a straight line, well a level line is the shortest line. 









And these 4 measurements, 
Between the 2x6 on the deck. 
between the pickets down the stairs.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No, leave the pickets that length when you have time get some measurements so i can figure where the pickets go.
> Remember the level line, close like with in a 1/2" is good.
> Remember the shortest distance is a straight line, well a level line is the shortest line.
> View attachment 696311
> ...


Pretty confident they are accurate
66 5/8 8th tread post to bottom
66 1/2 2x6 to 8th tread post
far deck post to 2x6 66 2/8 
wall post to far deck post 32 5/8


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Pretty confident they are accurate
> 66 5/8 8th tread post to bottom
> 66 1/2 2x6 to 8th tread post
> far deck post to 2x6 66 2/8
> wall post to far deck post 32 5/8


I can write them out on the drawing if it is not clear.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No, leave the pickets that length when you have time get some measurements so i can figure where the pickets go.
> Remember the level line, close like with in a 1/2" is good.
> Remember the shortest distance is a straight line, well a level line is the shortest line.
> View attachment 696311
> ...


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No, leave the pickets that length when you have time get some measurements so i can figure where the pickets go.
> Remember the level line, close like with in a 1/2" is good.
> Remember the shortest distance is a straight line, well a level line is the shortest line.
> View attachment 696311
> ...


First rail is in on the top side Have not screwed anything yet but it is a good fit. Should I measure each rail on the flat 2x4 to get it exact for each or do you think I can trace this one.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> First rail is in on the top side Have not screwed anything yet but it is a good fit. Should I measure each rail on the flat 2x4 to get it exact for each or do you think I can trace this one.


I would mark each one , you did give me slight different measurements and the posts could still be bent or off a hair.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I would mark each one , you did give me slight different measurements and the posts could still be bent or off a hair.


Sound good i will get that done. One thing is I think my top post is off by about 1/16" from the 2x6 i didnt notice. Should i just screw it in or cut anoher. everything else is perfect otherwise so far.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sound good i will get that done. One thing is I think my top post is off by about 1/16" from the 2x6 i didnt notice. Should i just screw it in or cut anoher. everything else is perfect otherwise so far.


Leave it.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave it.


Figured just checking. How do i line up the measurements for the top ones right? Since i do not have a 2x4 in. This one fits the top section of the rail between the 2x6 and the 8th tread post but I am not 100% sure how to get the other one withouth the 2x4 to rest on.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave it.


First stair rale screwed in cutting the 2 bottoms now I will do the 8th tread post to bottom post top section last I think.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave it.


2nd bottom rail between 2x6 and 8th tread post in looks great. cut specifically for this section it fits better. 3rd going in as we speak starting on the bottom for the section between 8th tread and bottom.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Leave it.


Might have put the line of the bottom post off I knocked the angle off also. Going to reset it in the morning. Post is close but off enough to make a difference. Could be a combination of older rail with warp and semi improper pre adjustment cuts( i re cut it though.), Me knocking the post off of level, and possibly not putting the post in quite the right spot even though I triple checked. It is much closer though and the first half is done.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Might have put the line of the bottom post off I knocked the angle off also. Going to reset it in the morning. Post is close but off enough to make a difference. Could be a combination of older rail with warp and semi improper pre adjustment cuts( i re cut it though.), Me knocking the post off of level, and possibly not putting the post in quite the right spot even though I triple checked. It is much closer though and the first half is done.


So tomorrow you can cut pickets. 
26 more angled pickets
13 straight ones


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> So tomorrow you can cut pickets.
> 26 more angled pickets
> 13 straight ones


Yes sir. top section is looking good.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yes sir. top section is looking good.


I can't say it was a bunch of fun but it sounds like we got it figured. 😕


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I can't say it was a bunch of fun but it sounds like we got it figured. 😕


Yeah sorry about that.. Honestly its really hard to get some of these piecces into place and measure some of these weird areas perfectly alone for me. I manage with things like duck tape and clamps but it doesnt take to much to put something off if Im not paying 100% attention. Honestly not sure what led to the differences guessing just the way I measured.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah sorry about that.. Honestly its really hard to get some of these piecces into place and measure some of these weird areas perfectly alone for me. I manage with things like duck tape and clamps but it doesnt take to much to put something off if Im not paying 100% attention. Honestly not sure what led to the differences guessing just the way I measured.


Making some progress for sure one little thing that im thinking doesnt matter is this tiny 1/16-1/32 or so that is stick up on the bottom post when taking measurement. Also when installing the pickets at the top is it from under the top of the 2x4 to the bottom of the bottom rail 2x4 that I am measuring? A 2x4 to space them out I do not need to cut that I believe but I can jig the angle so it is easy to line up properly then check level.
Edit: also are the pickets supposed to over hang some? I just line up 1 at the 30 inches and it hangs past the bottom rail about an inch


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Just use a 2x4 as a spacer between the pickets
> Just use the space jig and put one screw at the top do them all across the top and then use the level to plumb then down and add screws at the bottom and then add another screw at the top.
> View attachment 695865
> 
> ...


I see this drawing and think I am reading it right jsut want to be sure


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I see this drawing and think I am reading it right jsut want to be sure


On the stairs find the center between the post and find the center of a picket and put that picket in place on both sections. 
One screw on top and use the level to make them plumb and then screw the bottom.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> On the stairs find the center between the post and find the center of a picket and put that picket in place on both sections.
> One screw on top and use the level to make them plumb and then screw the bottom.
> View attachment 696393


Was there supposed to be about an inch stick past the bottom of the rail? looks good either way


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Was there supposed to be about an inch stick past the bottom of the rail? looks good either way


No but that is fine too.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Was there supposed to be about an inch stick past the bottom of the rail? looks good either way


Build a jig out of a scrap 2x4 like the one with the angle you had and a piece of 2x2. just short 6" pieces








And that is the spacer with the 2x2 sitting on the rail.








But just use it for one screw on top and then use the level.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Build a jig out of a scrap 2x4 like the one with the angle you had and a piece of 2x2. just short 6" pieces
> View attachment 696412
> 
> And that is the spacer with the 2x2 sitting on the rail.
> ...


Awesome will do. Cutting that last rail now I was adjusting and shimming the corner post to make it level all rails in except this last one looks good. Starting picket process very shortly.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> No but that is fine too.


Ok sounds good I actually think it looks quite nice sticking down alittle. Very happy and proud of this Thank you. I know its not done yet but man that last step was a struggle...


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Build a jig out of a scrap 2x4 like the one with the angle you had and a piece of 2x2. just short 6" pieces
> View attachment 696412
> 
> And that is the spacer with the 2x2 sitting on the rail.
> ...


My last question is about the pickets on the top section. To match uniformity with the 30 inch angled pickets going down the stairs sticking off the bottom one inch would you also cut the straight pickets for the deck at the same 1 inch or so past the bottom? I honestly think I will be good after this until everything is in.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> My last question is about the pickets on the top section. To match uniformity with the 30 inch angled pickets going down the stairs sticking off the bottom one inch would you also cut the straight pickets for the deck at the same 1 inch or so past the bottom? I honestly think I will be good after this until everything is in.


Yes you can if you like. 
The longer section on the deck will be the same process with a straight jig. 
The end of the deck ( short section)will be totally different so do the first 3 sections and stop.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes you can if you like.
> The longer section on the deck will be the same process with a straight jig.
> The end of the deck ( short section)will be totally different so do the first 3 sections and stop.


Sounds good thankyou


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes you can if you like.
> The longer section on the deck will be the same process with a straight jig.
> The end of the deck ( short section)will be totally different so do the first 3 sections and stop.
> [/QUOT
> Took a few adjustments to get my last rail right cut it to long slightly twice. Everything is in and looking good. I am having second thoughs about the pickets though =o. If you were me would you let it be and have the pickets over hang or adjust it the distance up and adjust the jig.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If the 2x4 rails are nailed to the pickets on the posts, how did the new pickets get longer?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> If the 2x4 rails are nailed to the pickets on the posts, how did the new pickets get longer?


I think i was just being a moron. it fits flush in the middle when i put it in level.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I think i was just being a moron. it fits flush in the middle when i put it in level.


Good plan, carry on. .
Now you can hook the tape to that picket and measure to the picket on the post, if you are center it will be the same both ways.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good plan, carry on. .
> Now you can hook the tape to that picket and measure to the picket on the post, if you are center it will be the same both ways.


Awesome thank you sir. I actually did cut a couple of pickets off. one side of my jig was slightly loose and i didnt catch that on my first 2. looks great now all line up.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Awesome thank you sir. I actually did cut a couple of pickets off. one side of my jig was slightly loose and i didnt catch that on my first 2. looks great now all line up.


Pickets are often in size and shape so we do one screw on top use the level and 2 screws on the bottom and then one more at the top. 
We usually do a bunch of tops and then go with the level and do the bottoms.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Good plan, carry on. .
> Now you can hook the tape to that picket and measure to the picket on the post, if you are center it will be the same both ways.


I am off of my center by 1/8" can see where it came off my line also Kind of guessing that is ok but at the same time im thinking if its off 1/8" one way then by the end it will be off more then that.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Pickets are often in size and shape so we do one screw on top use the level and 2 screws on the bottom and then one more at the top.
> We usually do a bunch of tops and then go with the level and do the bottoms.


I will do this ill do it by each section tops then level as i do the bottom.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I am off of my center by 1/8" can see where it came off my line also Kind of guessing that is ok but at the same time im thinking if its off 1/8" one way then by the end it will be off more then that.


That is not enough to worry about.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> That is not enough to worry about.


Awesome thank you.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The 2x4 spacer doesn't work on the short section we need closer to 3"
So build the jig with 2 scraps of 2x2 screwed together and set the jig in the middle this time with a picket on each side.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The 2x4 spacer doesn't work on the short section we need closer to 3"
> So build the jig with 2 scraps of 2x2 screwed together and set the jig in the middle this time with a picket on each side.
> View attachment 696463


This is for the 32 inch or so deck portion right? It’s looking good tedious but getting their first section almost done I decided to finish each picket before I move on knowing myself I might miss something coming back or not get each detail right if I factory line it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> This is for the 32 inch or so deck portion right? It’s looking good tedious but getting their first section almost done I decided to finish each picket before I move on knowing myself I might miss something coming back or not get each detail right if I factory line it.


Yes it is for the 32" so smaller jig and the jig centered this time.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Yes it is for the 32" so smaller jig and the jig centered this time.


Thank you. I am on the second section of the stairs now. It’s weird. At both ends the post fits flush but in the middle it sticks out some. Is that strange? Not to much but still


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Thank you. I am on the second section of the stairs now. It’s weird. At both ends the post fits flush but in the middle it sticks out some. Is that strange? Not to much but still


Not sure what you mean?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not sure what you mean?


When I set the picket in the middle of this section here it sticks down but by the 2x6 and the 8th tread post the pickets are flush with the 2x4 rails


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> When I set the picket in the middle of this section here it sticks down but by the 2x6 and the 8th tread post the pickets are flush with the 2x4 rails


Maybe one or both rails are bent a little making them closer together in the middle?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Maybe one or both rails are bent a little making them closer together in the middle?


Ok cool just thought it was strange and wanted to check. Looking really good otherwise. I actually need to head back to my moms house tonight until June second I know you said we had some hardware to add once the pickets are in. Hate to leave it mostly done for 4-5 days but I do gotta go. I would push it back a few days if I could. Honestly tonight flew up on me.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Ok cool just thought it was strange and wanted to check. Looking really good otherwise. I actually need to head back to my moms house tonight until June second I know you said we had some hardware to add once the pickets are in. Hate to leave it mostly done for 4-5 days but I do gotta go. I would push it back a few days if I could. Honestly tonight flew up on me.


Not a problem leaving it.
If you have bent rails and one is up and one is down you might remove one and flip it end for end then it will bend the other way


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not a problem leaving it.
> If you have bent rails and one is up and one is down you might remove one and flip it end for end then it will bend the other way


Awesome thank you sir. I am about half way through this section but honestly i will take a a hard look when i get back to determine if i should flip it. I probably will if it will even things out. Ironically one of these 2 rails i forgot to mark top and bottom so its also possible slightly off one end if the angle is the slightest bit different at the 2x6 and the post. Going to be heading out soon. I will be popping in and out of the chatroom every day though if you have anything you want to talk about.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not a problem leaving it.
> If you have bent rails and one is up and one is down you might remove one and flip it end for end then it will bend the other way


Back today going to finish getting the last few rails up. It looks really good though.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Not a problem leaving it.
> If you have bent rails and one is up and one is down you might remove one and flip it end for end then it will bend the other way


Raining this morning and going to pick up a few more pickets Made a couple bad cuts with my straight jig. Ill be done within a couple hours of the rain stopping though. Then I am going to add in the tap con into the concrete. I was thinking after that I should add a couple of carriage bolts to each post, I know you mentioned something about those before. Its looking really good. I have a couple of treads that kind of feel alittle funky after shrinking maybe? I Was also thinking maybe I should add a couple of "ties" down the length of each stringer as we have with the 2x6 at the top to prevent cracking.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Raining this morning and going to pick up a few more pickets Made a couple bad cuts with my straight jig. Ill be done within a couple hours of the rain stopping though. Then I am going to add in the tap con into the concrete. I was thinking after that I should add a couple of carriage bolts to each post, I know you mentioned something about those before. Its looking really good. I have a couple of treads that kind of feel alittle funky after shrinking maybe? I Was also thinking maybe I should add a couple of "ties" down the length of each stringer as we have with the 2x6 at the top to prevent cracking.


After you put a carriage bolt in the center post add a 2x4 across the bottom of the stringers to tie all the strings together and that will hold the otter one stiff.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> After you put a carriage bolt in the center post add a 2x4 across the bottom of the stringers to tie all the strings together and that will hold the otter one stiff.


Sounds great thank you I will be puttering along in between stops in the rain but Ill post updates Thank you as always.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> After you put a carriage bolt in the center post add a 2x4 across the bottom of the stringers to tie all the strings together and that will hold the otter one stiff.


How many tapcon screws should I put in? never anchored into concrete so i will be careful with my pre drilling.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> How many tapcon screws should I put in? never anchored into concrete so i will be careful with my pre drilling.


2 or 3 in each block, there is quick fix if you mess up the hole, just put a 3" length of nylon trimmer string in the hole. From the weed wacker.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> 2 or 3 in each block, there is quick fix if you mess up the hole, just put a 3" length of nylon trimmer string in the hole. From the weed wacker.


awesome i got plenty of that


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> awesome i got plenty of that


We never use the screws we do the string or wire with galvanized nails in 3/16" hole. 
But the screws look great.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> awesome i got plenty of that


Do you have a long 2x4 for the hand railing on the stairs 
And the 2x6 for the railing on the deck? 
If you do which do you want first?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> We never use the screws we do the string or wire with galvanized nails in 3/16" hole.
> But the screws look great.


Got carriage bolts in now I am struggling some with drilling the concrete any suggestions? pretty sure Ive got the right drill bit. Is it just slow going? Dont want to go to crazy on the drill if its not right. Id start smaller but im at the max depth of my smaller bit. 
Also would you recommend a second carraige bolt for the corner post on the short side of the deck and would you recommend carriage bolts on the other 2 deck posts? if so where would you suggest putting them in.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a long 2x4 for the hand railing on the stairs
> And the 2x6 for the railing on the deck?
> If you do which do you want first?


I have both I think I am dumb and left the 16 foot 2x4 on bad angle hoping its not to warped.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I have both I think I am dumb and left the 16 foot 2x4 on bad angle hoping its not to warped.


It should be long enough to make it some what bendable so we can try that.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Got carriage bolts in now I am struggling some with drilling the concrete any suggestions? pretty sure Ive got the right drill bit. Is it just slow going? Dont want to go to crazy on the drill if its not right. Id start smaller but im at the max depth of my smaller bit.
> Also would you recommend a second carraige bolt for the corner post on the short side of the deck and would you recommend carriage bolts on the other 2 deck posts? if so where would you suggest putting them in.


I don't think the deck posts need anything. 
How long of screw, A 3" screw will be in 1 1/2" of wood so you would need to be a little more than 1 1/2" deep, aim for 2" deep and try to get all the dust out. 
There are special drills for that but for just a couple holes. Don't push to hard, the tips can over heat and fall off in the hole
If the drill just stop on a stone, move and try again.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> I don't think the deck posts need anything.
> How long of screw, A 3" screw will be in 1 1/2" of wood so you would need to be a little more than 1 1/2" deep, aim for 2" deep and try to get all the dust out.
> There are special drills for that but for just a couple holes. Don't push to hard, the tips can over heat and fall off in the hole
> If the drill just stop on a stone, move and try again.


ok sounds good I will work through I think I got 3 inch hopefully not 3 1/2


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> It should be long enough to make it some what bendable so we can try that.


Sounds good Im pretty much ready to try to I need to cut an angle?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds good Im pretty much ready to try to I need to cut an angle?


For the stair rail you have been cutting miter cuts 
Now you have to do a bevel cut the same angle to fit the top, 
Find a 2x4 scrap that has that and angle and stand it on a table and adjust the saw to fit the angle 








Then you are ready to cut the top cut. 
Leave the bottom long and cut it when it is up and you can figure where to cut it then,


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> For the stair rail you have been cutting miter cuts
> Now you have to do a bevel cut the same angle to fit the top,
> Find a 2x4 scrap that has that and angle and stand it on a table and adjust the saw to fit the angle
> View attachment 698232
> ...


Sounds good getting it done now hopefully. I might need to go to lowes to get a proper drill bit for the concrete if builder supply doesnt have one. I can check in the morning Or just go to lowes later and be ready in the morning. Realized I wasnt using a masonry one and the one i got out goes down much smooth its just not long or thick enough.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Sounds good getting it done now hopefully. I might need to go to lowes to get a proper drill bit for the concrete if builder supply doesnt have one. I can check in the morning Or just go to lowes later and be ready in the morning. Realized I wasnt using a masonry one and the one i got out goes down much smooth its just not long or thick enough.


Do you have a tool rental handy It is a rotary hammer drill and a new bit that fits that drill and it will drill like butter.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Do you have a tool rental handy It is a rotary hammer drill and a new bit that fits that drill and it will drill like butter.
> View attachment 698246


I can rent tools at Lowes. Kind of a haul especially with the price of gas but Ill do what evers best honestly lol. Way to satisfying to see this coming together not to. I need to hit a bunch of yard sales honestly. Pretty sure I could get a garage full of power tools for a few hundred. Been meaning to to get a wall of hammers chisels etc recommended by multiple people from my past that have mattered.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I can rent tools at Lowes. Kind of a haul especially with the price of gas but Ill do what evers best honestly lol. Way to satisfying to see this coming together not to. I need to hit a bunch of yard sales honestly. Pretty sure I could get a garage full of power tools for a few hundred. Been meaning to to get a wall of hammers chisels etc recommended by multiple people from my past that have mattered.


Start checking adds for a used drill like that, some time in the next month or two will work. 
They are a little pricey for a one time use.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Start checking adds for a used drill like that, some time in the next month or two will work.
> They are a little pricey for a one time use.


sounds good I would need a deal for sure for things like that. I also do think if i walk up from the small drill bit I have and Can find the 3 1/2" drill bit at the size I need then the one I have will work. The small drill bit that was for masonry cut through pretty will.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> sounds good I would need a deal for sure for things like that. I also do think if i walk up from the small drill bit I have and Can find the 3 1/2" drill bit at the size I need then the one I have will work. The small drill bit that was for masonry cut through pretty will.


Take the block out and finish drilling the hole??


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take the block out and finish drilling the hole??


I can do that I was dumb and installed the corner brackets first to hold it all. fits well should beable to get them out with a hammer without to much issue


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Take the block out and finish drilling the hole??


I need to run to lowes to get so


Nealtw said:


> Take the block out and finish drilling the hole??


big 16 footer fits well warps isnt actually bad for some reason its worse on the 2x6x10 that was sitting in the same spot. The middle post is slightly off alignment. It will pull in to match the others but doesnt stay im going to try and see if the carriage bolts will tighten more if i do it while holding it up. Not really enough room to add anything else maybe a few screws?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> I need to run to lowes to get so
> 
> big 16 footer fits well warps isnt actually bad for some reason its worse on the 2x6x10 that was sitting in the same spot. The middle post is slightly off alignment. It will pull in to match the others but doesnt stay im going to try and see if the carriage bolts will tighten more if i do it while holding it up. Not really enough room to add anything else maybe a few screws?


The 2x4 you put under the stringers maybe should have been longer or shorter to make that stringer and post plumb. 
If you start screwing the railing at the top and work your way down you can bend the fence and or the 2x4 to make them line up as you go.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The 2x4 you put under the stringers maybe should have been longer or shorter to make that stringer and post plumb.
> If you start screwing the railing at the top and work your way down you can bend the fence and or the 2x4 to make them line up as you go.


Its plumb at the top and the bottom I think that the actual post its self is not pretend the arrow is pointing in towards the stringer instead of up. plumb with the stringer its slightly angled. Doesnt help that the top section of the upper 2x4 rail is warped. Also I have been having a hard time finding an exact reference for how tight to make the carriage bolts. Nothing is loose at all but I could still force them to go more without to to much effort, Its starting to bite into the wood at the washer in the back some. and is in the front square part buried.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The 2x4 you put under the stringers maybe should have been longer or shorter to make that stringer and post plumb.
> If you start screwing the railing at the top and work your way down you can bend the fence and or the 2x4 to make them line up as you go.


Regardless of everything I just typed Im going to do as you said and start putting it in at the top


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> The 2x4 you put under the stringers maybe should have been longer or shorter to make that stringer and post plumb.
> If you start screwing the railing at the top and work your way down you can bend the fence and or the 2x4 to make them line up as you go.


am i going flush with the edge of 2x6 or flush with the rail?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> am i going flush with the edge of 2x6 or flush with the rail?


You want it to fit over the posts, Will that be flush with the outside of the pickets.
Just look at how you want it at the post.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> You want it to fit over the posts, Will that be flush with the outside of the pickets.
> Just look at how you want it at the post.


Yeah that is a good fit with the pickets everything is flush minus the warp might be semi hard to get that portion done alone but ill get it lol


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Yeah that is a good fit with the pickets everything is flush minus the warp might be semi hard to get that portion done alone but ill get it lol


Is it warped toward the house or away?


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Is it warped toward the house or away?


Away from the house I got it all lined up and looking good though. just finished


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Away from the house I got it all lined up and looking good though. just finished


How bad it the 2x6 for the top rail, if bad we can still do a practice run.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> How bad it the 2x6 for the top rail, if bad we can still do a practice run.


Its pretty bad the high point flat on the ground is almost and inch. It flattens out easily if i step on it but Im not sure how much pressure it would put on the screws and stuff. Im sure I can hold it in place with a clamp.
Edit: builder supply closes at 5 if i need another though. I think i need to run to lowes tonight to get bags for my shopvac but a long way to drive with a piece potentially sticking out or in a bad spot.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its pretty bad the high point flat on the ground is almost and inch. It flattens out easily if i step on it but Im not sure how much pressure it would put on the screws and stuff. Im sure I can hold it in place with a clamp


It might be junk but lets try it anyway
Rough cut both pieces for the top rail .
Set one in place and line it up where you would like to have it.
Set a block on the third post and set the other piece on the block and the first 2x6, line them up where you would like them.
Where they are one atop the other mark the inside and outside where they intersect.
We don't need it to be square, we don't need to know what angle it is with just connect those points on both boards.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Its pretty bad the high point flat on the ground is almost and inch. It flattens out easily if i step on it but Im not sure how much pressure it would put on the screws and stuff. Im sure I can hold it in place with a clamp.
> Edit: builder supply closes at 5 if i need another though. I think i need to run to lowes tonight to get bags for my shopvac but a long way to drive with a piece potentially sticking out or in a bad spot.


Up to you, if you think it is not usable.We do like to use them before they dry out so they stay where we put them.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Up to you, if you think it is not usable.We do like to use them before they dry out so they stay where we put them.


Sounds good. Im giving it a go now should have time to pick one up if I need to


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Looks good but its not 100% perfect I dont think a new 2x6 would change this part though lol it looks good I think only error really is that piece that sticks out on the post by the wall its not 100% flush but honestly looks good to me.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

LearningTrades said:


> Looks good but its not 100% perfect I dont think a new 2x6 would change this part though lol it looks good I think only error really is that piece that sticks out on the post by the wall its not 100% flush but honestly looks good to me.


  Now look at what you have done, I hope you are proud of yourself.


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## LearningTrades (12 mo ago)

Nealtw said:


> Now look at what you have done, I hope you are proud of yourself.


Yes sir honestly really proud. One of my biggest accomplishments honestly. Honestly and truly cant describe how much I appreciate it.


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