# Gutters and Decorative Trim on Fascia



## paulyg (Jan 26, 2010)

Howdy all,

Recently moved into a 1940 Cap Cod and it's time to replace the tired old gutters. My plan was to rip them out and start over with the DIY Vinyl K-channel from the local big box store. Complicating matters is this decorative trim that is mounted to the top of fascia. See the 2nd and 4th pictures. 

Seems the roof hangs over the fascia more than your typical arrangement today. I'm not sure what to do with this. Honestly it seems even the existing gutters are to close to the house. I can imagine rain running down the roof and missing the gutters.

I have a feeling that trim is coming off. You can't see it with the gutters there anyways. I thought about gluing and screwing 2x4s to the fascia board and then attaching the gutters to that. Thoughts?

Sorry about the low light in pics. Sun was setting by the time I got all the crap out of the gutters.


----------



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

There's not many good options for replacing your existing gutters besides half rounds like you have. They are available in aluminum and you could probably re-use the existing hangers. They are hung like they are to keep sliding snow from tearing them off.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

you can also get them wider,looks like they have been giving good service for many years:thumbsup:


----------



## paulyg (Jan 26, 2010)

They have lasted a long time. Not sure how well the hangars will come apart after many years of rust. Also most of the gutters are tilted with the outer edge down, assumingly from the snow load causing the mounts to pivot where they are bolted together. I'm also missing some of the spring clips. The gutters are bent in places and therefore do not slope properly anymore. 

And compared to the K type of today seem to have less capacity.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

yea maybe a little less capacity but its the drop opening size and number of downspouts that really determine a gutters capacity...not so much how much it can hold,more like how fast it can drain


----------



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> yea maybe a little less capacity but its the drop opening size and number of downspouts that really determine a gutters capacity...not so much how much it can hold,*more like how fast it can drain*


And water moves quicker in half round than K.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

i installed then on my shed,you could drain a beer can thru them....not to suggest that i stash empty beer cans there:wink:


----------



## paulyg (Jan 26, 2010)

OK. I've accepted the fact that I will need to replace with half round. Found a place online that will cut to length and ship to me. Now my dilemma is about hangars. In most spots the existing hangars are only 40" on center. Not 16-24" like is suggested. The hangars are most likely the kind that are nailed to the roof underneath the shingles. And they are underneath two layers of shingles. How do I add hangars? Should I use the kind that screws into the crown molding? I'm afraid they won't like up with the originals, which are kind of bent from over time anyways.


----------



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

paulyg said:


> OK. I've accepted the fact that I will need to replace with half round. Found a place online that will cut to length and ship to me. Now my dilemma is about hangars. In most spots the existing hangars are only 40" on center. Not 16-24" like is suggested. The hangars are most likely the kind that are nailed to the roof underneath the shingles. And they are underneath two layers of shingles. How do I add hangars? Should I use the kind that screws into the crown molding? I'm afraid they won't like up with the originals, which are kind of bent from over time anyways.


The crown mount hangers are expensive and unless you hit framing behind the crown, are likely to pull the crown off.

You can attach the hangers through the shingles. Not the best option, but the easiest. Set the hangers in a bead of Geocel 2300 or similar caulk and screw them thru the shingles with rust resistant screws.

You can also lift the top layer of shingles and slip the hangers under. Use a couple of wooden wedges forced under the shingles to lift them slightly. Slip the hanger under and screw it. You'll probably be screwing at an angle. Doesn't matter as long as you get a grip in the sheathing. Squirt a dab of caulk/tar under the shingles where you lifted them to reseal them. 

And lastly, you can fish out some shingles where the hangers go and re-install them after. 

Professionally, we use option two most of the time. 

Who are you getting your gutter from?


----------



## paulyg (Jan 26, 2010)

seeyou said:


> The crown mount hangers are expensive and unless you hit framing behind the crown, are likely to pull the crown off.
> 
> You can attach the hangers through the shingles. Not the best option, but the easiest. Set the hangers in a bead of Geocel 2300 or similar caulk and screw them thru the shingles with rust resistant screws.
> 
> ...


Thanks those sound like good options. Planning on using guttersupply.com.


----------



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

paulyg said:


> Thanks those sound like good options. *Planning on using guttersupply.com*.


That's who I had hoped you'd contacted. Good outfit.


----------



## paulyg (Jan 26, 2010)

Bumping this with two more questions.

1) Really a clarification. I've seen the #25 shank as being listed for 6/12 roofs or as having a 45deg angle on different sites. Wouldn't a 6/12 pitch be 22.5deg from horizontal? FWIW my roof is 10/12 or about 40deg. I assume I need to buy shanks designed for 45deg and bend them a bit? Is #25 what I need?

2) Any recommendations for securing downspouts to stucco walls? Two of my downspouts are against stucco walls, with cinderblock underneath. None of the downspouts currently have any brackets or straps securing them.


----------



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

paulyg said:


> Bumping this with two more questions.
> 
> 1) Really a clarification. I've seen the #25 shank as being listed for 6/12 roofs or as having a 45deg angle on different sites. Wouldn't a 6/12 pitch be 22.5deg from horizontal? FWIW my roof is 10/12 or about 40deg. I assume I need to buy shanks designed for 45deg and bend them a bit? Is #25 what I need?
> 
> 2) Any recommendations for securing downspouts to stucco walls? Two of my downspouts are against stucco walls, with cinderblock underneath. None of the downspouts currently have any brackets or straps securing them.



I just buy #12 shanks and bend them as necessary.

We typically use a 2"-3" wide strap of the same material as the downspout. Tapcon it to the wall and wrap it around the spout and rivet or screw.


----------

