# Standing Seam Metal Roof Leaks



## RedYucca (Feb 27, 2014)

Hi. I’m looking to take care of some roof leaks before the rainy season starts and was hoping some of you might have some advice. In heavy rain the roof leaks from the lapped portions of the ridge cap (water stains visible on ridge beam in attic) as well as the lower portions of the valleys (stains on decking in attic)and out under the eaves as well, and possibly around vent boots as well.

A previous owner attempted to fix the issue with a mess of caulking, but this has separated from the joints. I realize exposed sealant is not an ideal fix for this problem, but are there newer sealants that deal with UV and thermal movement of the roof better that whatever this guy used? If so, what product should I use, and how should I go about removing the existing mess. Here are some photos to give you an idea of what I’m talking about.

Photo 1: Shows gap at joins between sections of ridge cap. Sections are tapered and fitted together. There is a gap under the "Z" flashing that it's mounted on, I'm not sure if that sealant is still good.
Thanks

Photo 2: Looking down from main roof to ridge on intersecting roof. The ridge cap for the lower roof stops short of covering the valley flashing (just kind of flaps down), the joints looks to have been soldered originally and later cover with caulk. 

Photo 3: Looking up the valley along toward the same intersection. You can see how the valley is caulked here, there are quite of few of these joints, and some are sealed and some are open, I think water is getting into these in heavy rains. 

Photo 4: The worst of the vent stack boots... I don't know for sure that this one leaks, but it sure looks bad. Could I just reuse the boot by replacing the rubber washers on the bolts and resealing with butyl tape underneath, or do I need something else. What can I do about corrosion/rust stains?


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Cannot comment too in-depth on your ridge and valley issues since I don't know what's underneath. Just that none of that caulk should be there or be necessary and is just making your roof worse, especially that bead running up the panels in the valley. Don't know how much lap is in the valley or the ridge. All those details really need to be inspected in person to determine the extent of repairing it correctly. 

I can tell you that the lead pipe boot is almost as wrong as using a no-caulk (usually what we see all the time.) http://www.itwbuildex.com/pdf/flashings_bifold_2010_hires.pdf to see what you should have on your pipes. Can you guess why the panel is rusting at an accelerated rate in that picture?


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## RedYucca (Feb 27, 2014)

OldNBroken said:


> Cannot comment too in-depth on your ridge and valley issues since I don't know what's underneath.


Thanks for responding. The roof is installed over skip decked 1x6 (solid in the valleys) with no underlayment. I don’t know how far the valleys extend under the roof panels, but the ridge doesn’t seem to have much overlap. I’m calling a roofer at this point, I just would like to learn as much as possible. 




OldNBroken said:


> Can you guess why the panel is rusting at an accelerated rate in that picture?


I’d guess the stains are from water rusting the vent pipe and washing out underneath the boot onto the roof or from lead and galvanized steel being too dissimilar and corroding. (too far apart on anodic index)... Or maybe both?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

That valley is funky looking. Never seen one that caulked up. Not sure how that panel is interlocking to the valley either.

The pipe boot doesn't look that bad but the rust could be from condensation on a cast iron pipe. 

I would rather see a Dektite boot but lead has worked well for years.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Odds are very good those valley panels are snugged to the valley lip. Water gets in right at the standing seam and runs BEHIND the valley lip. Capilary action at it's worst. The pipe collar should have had a panel cut off 6-12" farther up the roof than the pipe, the collar installed, then another panel should have overlaid the collar to a point 2-3" below the pipe itself. 


You could try removing all the caulk and injecting as much as possible between the standing seams at the bottom edge. It might do the job.

Add a panel above the pipe collar to a point 2-4" below the pipe. 

Try to add a lapped in piece of metal above the valley top to close it off.

I'd take all the ridge cap off if necessary and box fold all the panel tops and reinstall the ridge cap with flat-locked joints, with a sealer deep inside the joints to seal them. No caulk on the outsides.

Some of these tin roof details may help. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Tin%20Roofing%20photo_gallery.htm


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

I have some albums here that may help too. http://www.rooferscoffeeshop.com/photo_album_list.asp?u=30


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## RedYucca (Feb 27, 2014)

Hi, thanks for your responses. I have not had any luck yet finding a decent roofer. I am going to see if I can manage to reseal a section of ridge cap and see how it goes from there. Tinner’s suggestion to boxfold all joints seems beyond my skill level and beyond the level of work that any roofer in my area will attempt. Thanks for the suggestion though. 

I am specifically looking for advice on how to remove the ridge cap. It is friction fitted around the zee bar with the ends tapered together somehow (see photo). I would like to remove the cap, remove the loose section (riding up a down on loose nails) of z-bar that water is getting under and then seal under the zee and screw it back down and reinstall the cap. 

The guy at the roofing supply store said it should just slide off (it’s proving to be pretty stubborn), yet also said that I should be able to replace a section in the middle of the run too, which seems impossible if I have to slide them off in series. and re-install them in reverse order sealing under the laps as I go. Eventually I would like to reseal and refasten the entire ridge, but I don’t want to pull it all off at once... Is this possible?


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