# Too much vs too little paint in the roller? Tips to minimize stipple?



## Yirg (Apr 12, 2015)

In my quest to paint a wall for projection (movies etc) I'm now past the joint compound, sanding and primer steps and am about to paint the wall (at last). A couple of questions before I start:

- Are there signs that I'm loading too much or too little paint? I assume dripping and insufficient coverage would be the obvious signs, but is there anything else to it?
- Is there a way to minimize stipple? I'm going to use a short-nap roller (4mm), but was wondering if there's any technique which could result in smoother surface. Would rolling a large number of times (without loading more paint) be beneficial to smooth things up?

Thanks in advance!


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## BrowneBearLLC (Apr 8, 2015)

What you want to hear is a sucking sound as you pull or push the roller across the surface. If you do not hear at the start it you have too much, or if it stops you do not have enough and need more paint. It all comes down to practice and more paint is not better, more coats are.
As for the finish, the finer the nap the smoother the outcome. One thing to note is that the smoother the finish the more imperfections will show. As for sheen it goes the same way more gloss more imperfections will show.

So here is a trick, take a light and run it up the wall real close in a dark room and any imperfections will stand out. Fix them before painting and it will save you a lot of work later. I hope this helps


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

The quality of the paint has a HUGE impact in my opinion. Cheap paints lack the leveling capabilities of higher grade paints. As for rolling, you want to load that sucker up with paint. When you pull it from the tray, it should be ALMOST dripping with paint. Let the roller do the work. Don't push down on the roller! Reload after each 3 x 5 section. You will be LAYING the paint on the wall more than anything. It's a shame that oil-based paints have gone the way of the dinosaurs because this is one time that an oil based paint on the wall would be to your advantage. It levels out better because of the slower dry times and dries to a hard, nearly stipple-free finish. With a mohair roller to apply it, well, you would have the finish you desire. I used to use SW's Alkyd Velvet for the best stipple free finish, but, I don't think it is available any longer.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

I Advise a back rolling. Fill your roller up till its full. Roll 1 section. Fill the roller up, roll the next section. After this before you get more paint re roll the paint from the 1st section. This helps moves the nap around to help level it out. Also using a paint that levels with help alot. Here is an example of a waterborne alkyd. Works the same as an oil (self leveling) yet you clean it up with water like any other latex. 

Dulux - http://www.dulux.ca/diy/products/specialty-paints/dulux-x-pert-waterborne-alkyd

Benjamin Moore - http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-ca/...ducts/advance-waterborne-interior-alkyd-paint

Sherwin Williams - http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom.../proclassic-interior-waterbased-acrylicalkyd/


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

P.S. A shorter nap on the roller sleeve helps too. I use a 1/2" most of the time, but, with what you are trying to do, 3/8" or less would certainly help reduce the amount of roller stipple.


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## klaatu (Mar 9, 2015)

Gymschu said:


> P.S. A shorter nap on the roller sleeve helps too. I use a 1/2" most of the time, but, with what you are trying to do, 3/8" or less would certainly help reduce the amount of roller stipple.


Also, use a good microfiber roller cover to get a smooth finish. Purdy,Wooster,Elder & Jenks brands.


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## Yirg (Apr 12, 2015)

Thanks for all the suggestions.

The microfiber roller cover makes a lot of sense. I didn't see it in my area. Hopefully I won't need to order it from abroad...

Two things I saw mentioned elsewhere that I'm curious to hear you opinion on:

- "Feathering" - rolling very lightly when the paint begins to dry (if I understood the concept correctly)
- Use of Floetrol to increase the drying time

Both are supposed to result in smoother result. Thoughts?


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Yirg said:


> Thanks for all the suggestions.
> 
> The microfiber roller cover makes a lot of sense. I didn't see it in my area. Hopefully I won't need to order it from abroad...
> 
> ...


Feathering same this as back rolling i already told you. Floetrol Is a paint extender for water based paints. It allows it to have more open time and become more self leveling.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Home Depot carries these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Linzer-B...iber-Roller-Cover-3-Pack-HD-RS-1733/203230113


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## dpainter (Jun 16, 2015)

i would say dont go over the area too many times, so the ususal w pattern and after you have don e a three foot section, go over fully up and down top to bottom, after putting a small amount back on the roller, this will give you a nice flat smooth finish, dont fuse too much you will cause yourself more problems


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## Yirg (Apr 12, 2015)

AlphaWolf said:


> I Advise a back rolling. Fill your roller up till its full. Roll 1 section. Fill the roller up, roll the next section. After this before you get more paint re roll the paint from the 1st section. This helps moves the nap around to help level it out.


When you say "section" I assume you mean roller width from top to bottom? I'll try that.

BTW, the wall is 2.3x2.6 m (about 7.5x8.5 feet). If I'm using Floetrol I'm assuming I can cover the whole wall before things start to dry. Will it make sense to then level and even things up by rolling _horizontally _without loading more paint?



> Also using a paint that levels with help alot. Here is an example of a waterborne alkyd. Works the same as an oil (self leveling) yet you clean it up with water like any other latex.
> 
> Dulux - http://www.dulux.ca/diy/products/specialty-paints/dulux-x-pert-waterborne-alkyd
> 
> ...


Unfortunately I can't find any of these products where I live, but I did find a place that sells Floetrol and will use that to extend the drying time and leveling of the paint that I bought.

Now, this is probably a stupid question, but since you've all been kind and patient I'll just ask it - is there any point in lightly sanding the first coat to remove stipple?

Thanks again!


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