# Finishing edges around shower



## Arkitexas

There are standard drywall trims already avaiable. One is called an "L" bead , the other a casing bead. Both are designed to trim the edge of a single gypsum board sheet. The "L" bead is applied to the outside face of the drywall and floated out with drywall mud just like a corner bead. The casing bead is installed behind the sheet and wraps the edge of the drywall sheet with a "J" shape that can be floated out or left exposed. Around a tub I recommend using the plastic version to prevent rusting issues.

Rick


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## BOUTYM

Perfect! Thanks.


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## iminaquagmire

Another method is to leave the drywall short of the flange and fill the gap with a couple lifts of easysand mud. This allows the drywall to sit flush to the studs and not bulge out around the flange.


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## BOUTYM

iminaquagmire said:


> Another method is to leave the drywall short of the flange and fill the gap with a couple lifts of easysand mud. This allows the drywall to sit flush to the studs and not bulge out around the flange.


I considered this, but on one edge the distance to an outside corner is so small that the valley created by the bulge and the corner bead will be easy to fill. On all other areas the distance is enough that the bulge won't be noticeable.


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## Arkitexas

iminaquagmire said:


> Another method is to leave the drywall short of the flange and fill the gap with a couple lifts of easysand mud. This allows the drywall to sit flush to the studs and not bulge out around the flange.


Although this comment is well intended, it is not a good solution. Such installation may look good at first, but without continuous support along the edge of the gypsum board, I guarantee it will crack.

The surround must be nailed to each stud at the lip. Since you are installing direct-to-stud, install a stud at the vertical edge of the surround to support and nail the surround lip and the gypsum board edge. The gypsum board must always lap over the lip of the surround for support. 

Use the plastic "L" bead over the gypsum board edge and nail to the studs. Provide the 3/16" gap between the surround ledge and the "L" bead and float out the edge with mud. Caulk the 3/16" space with silicone sealant.

Rick


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## iminaquagmire

I guess this is just another thing that varies by region. The way I stated is the way I've always seen it done around here. Of course with continuous support for the drywall edge and tape in the mud though. The surround edges get caulked during paint.


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## Ed911

Arkitexas said:


> Although this comment is well intended, it is not a good solution. Such installation may look good at first, but without continuous support along the edge of the gypsum board, I guarantee it will crack.
> 
> The surround must be nailed to each stud at the lip. Since you are installing direct-to-stud, install a stud at the vertical edge of the surround to support and nail the surround lip and the gypsum board edge. The gypsum board must always lap over the lip of the surround for support.
> 
> Use the plastic "L" bead over the gypsum board edge and nail to the studs. Provide the 3/16" gap between the surround ledge and the "L" bead and float out the edge with mud. Caulk the 3/16" space with silicone sealant.
> 
> Rick


What he said. Let me add this...at least one manufacturer says to fur out the wall so that the drywall doesn't have to ride up on the lip of the tub surround...but rather slips over the flange...without stress. 

That's what I'm going to do. I think they recommended 1/4 inch, but that seems a like a lot. So, fur as your project requires.

My old stud walls were furred out, end to end, top to botom with quarter inch plywood strips on each stud, when I demo'ed my bathroom with its cast iron tub. 

Comments / suggestions please, especially if you can recommend something that you have used.


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