# Door is not plumb.



## raidencmc (Feb 7, 2016)

I noticed that my door had an air leak at the top on the latch side I could also see light through it. I got out a level and check to see if the door was warped and it wasn't. But it is slightly out of plumb. The top has a gap between the stop seal and the bottom is very tight on the stop seal. The rest of the frame seams square and plumb. I feel if I can get the door plumb it should even out the gaps at the seal. How can I fix this?

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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

A gap in the fitment of the door to the frame is not usually a "plumb" issue. It is more often a function of the door being out of square or the slap being out of level.


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## ryansdiydad (Aug 16, 2015)

My two cents...

Remove hinges.. Fill the old hinge holes.. with toothpicks and wood glue.. Move the hinge attachment point to the jamb in or out as appropriate get it plumb again..


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I don't have the skill to check a door for warp with a level but a couple of winding sticks usually works well.


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## raidencmc (Feb 7, 2016)

Windows on Wash said:


> A gap in the fitment of the door to the frame is not usually a "plumb" issue. It is more often a function of the door being out of square or the slap being out of level.


I think what you are saying is what I am describing. So how do I correct it?

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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No way would I be moving hinges!!!
Start at the bottom and check level.
Use a framing square to check the two inside top corners.
To check for plumb and how flat the jambs are I use a 6' level as a straight edge.


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## ryansdiydad (Aug 16, 2015)

raidencmc said:


> I got out a level and check to see if the door was warped and it wasn't. But it is slightly out of plumb.


The OP already said the door isn't plumb. Why are you giving him advice on how to check for plumb???!!!!

It's not plumb.. what's your advice to resolve it?!?!!!!!!

The door and the jamb are apparently not on the same plane... Do you suggest he tears everything open to adjust the jamb? Or maybe just adjust the hinges to get them back on the same plane...?

I may be incorrectly assuming this door is already installed and trimmed on both the inside and exterior of the house.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

raidencmc said:


> I think what you are saying is what I am describing. So how do I correct it?
> 
> Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk



----------------------Welcome to the forums!---------------

No, that has nothing to do with plumb---in which you are correct. That has to do with the top (head) reveal, as does elevating one jamb or the other.

DO not move the hinges- that would necessitate cutting some door stop material away on the top hinge side as that is where the gap is when closed.

You check a door for warp with a 6' level, as Joe said- on a diagonal (on the slab) to see if a corner is "bent" in or out with a gap somewhere along the straight-edge.

You adjust the strike on the stops with a shim under said hinge (either top or bottom- top in your case) to "cant" the door slightly to contact stop same time bottom contacts its stop. The shim should be on the outer edge along the hinge height, not near the screws- only on pin side. IF door is not warped- either the strike jamb or door (hinge) jamb is out of plumb- Joe is correct again. Either wall could be out of plumb- forward/back - in line with door swing- which MAY show as the frame is set more to one side of either room/exterior/interior- and casing trim has a gap behind it to drywall.

Gary
PS. slamming a door on an object will move most jambs slightly- showing your problem- due to weak holding shear power of the fasteners. After you fix it, add longer screws on hinges, at least a few to each one.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

How old or new is the door? On a old door it may be easiest to move the stop. New door assemblies usually have built in stops, so no easy adjustment.
Can you post a few pics


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