# is 14/2 ok for fridge ?



## k_buz (Mar 22, 2012)

In most cases, a 15 A circuit is fine for a fridge. If you are using power tools on the same circuit, I am going to assume you will encounter some overloading of the circuit.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

If you're running a new circuit to the fridge 14/2 is most likely fine, but you cannot have "other things" on this circuit.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

great, thanx. no power tool usage. when the kitchen remodel takes place, all new wiring for everything will go in.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i was just thinking. i have enough 14/3. idk how the kitchen is wired now. but if i can, i will run the fridge off 1 wire, then the rest of the "whatever" off the other wire.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i just looked in the owners emanual. it doesn't even say the power consumption , sheeesh.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

ok, i just checked. that curcuit runs the whole back of the house, except the micro and gas stove. so, it would be the fridge and a bunch of lights. but those lights are hardly ever on and they are all cfl's anyway. and, in the panel, is a 14g wire. so i think i will be ok.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

You *need* separate dedicated circuit for refrigerator, some codes require it, 15 amp #14 gauge wire minimum, 20 amp on 12 is better. Microwave and dishwasher *should* have separate circuits, 15 amp #14 gauge wire minimum, 20 amp on 12 is better. Depending on wattage, just one light bulb, or can opener, food processor etc. mite be enuff to overload circuit . Sometimes when incandescent bulbs blow, the filament shorts and trips circuit or if reefer or microwave overload, you could be left in dark. At least one light should be on circuit separate from other lights. All lights and/or all outlets should not be on same circuit. That's minimum of 3 circuits in kitchen.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

yeah, i plan to do that. but right now, no way. i don't have the time. i am getting the living room and dining room ready for a demo this coming weekend = has to be done soon.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i ran the 14/2 as a temp run. the house is still standing and not on fire.


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## HARRY304E (Nov 18, 2011)

notmrjohn said:


> You *need* separate dedicated circuit for refrigerator, some codes require it, 15 amp #14 gauge wire minimum, 20 amp on 12 is better. Microwave and dishwasher *should* have separate circuits, 15 amp #14 gauge wire minimum, 20 amp on 12 is better. Depending on wattage, just one light bulb, or can opener, food processor etc. mite be enuff to overload circuit . Sometimes when incandescent bulbs blow, the filament shorts and trips circuit or if reefer or microwave overload, you could be left in dark. At least one light should be on circuit separate from other lights. All lights and/or all outlets should not be on same circuit. That's minimum of 3 circuits in kitchen.


All the receptacles in a kitchen must be on 20 amp circuits except the refrigerator which can be on a 15 amp circuit with no other loads.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

Its only been 6 days since last post. All authorities insist on at least a week for proper test. Spend all day tomorrow in church, for family's safety sake. 

May have to visit several denominations at different times, Various family members may be converted to feuding sects. Do not attend services at any fire or lightening worshipers. Also avoid Church of Holy Spoiled Potato Salad.

I recommend any small church with visiting Circuit Riding preacher.

Watch Saints game instead of Red Skins or Chargers.


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## HARRY304E (Nov 18, 2011)

notmrjohn said:


> Its only been 6 days since last post. All authorities insist on at least a week for proper test. Spend all day tomorrow in church, for family's safety sake.
> 
> May have to visit several denominations at different times, Various family members may be converted to feuding sects. Do not attend services at any fire or lightening worshipers. Also avoid Church of Holy Spoiled Potato Salad.
> 
> ...


:laughing::laughing::thumbup:


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## darren (Nov 25, 2005)

notmrjohn said:


> You *need* separate dedicated circuit for refrigerator, some codes require it, 15 amp #14 gauge wire minimum, 20 amp on 12 is better. Microwave and dishwasher *should* have separate circuits, 15 amp #14 gauge wire minimum, 20 amp on 12 is better.


Why is a 20A circuit and #12 better. I have never seen a fridge or microwave with a 20A plug on it. Why waste the money(i know its not much) and run #12 when it is a dedicated circuit and no chance of ever using the full capacity of the 20A breaker.

14/2 on a 15A breaker is fine for your fridge.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

"Why is a 20A circuit and #12 better" Have you seen the size of some of the things today? Just a few years ago those would have been considered commercial units. I blame it on Costco etc. Folks gotta have some place to put 500 frozen pizzas. And all kinds of gee-gaws, ice crushers, chippers, grinders, shavers; piggy back compressors for "KwikIce FastFreeze, Quick chill for frequent or lengthy door opening." Mite even be a feature to figure your income tax. 

Some require 20/12 in installation manual. Our new one recommended it, with instruction to seek qualified electrician to change plug. Talk in our area, rumors among builders&electricians I know anyway, of using, possibly requiring, #12 on 15A in new construction on reefer etc. circuits for easy swap out as they seem to be getting biger and bigger.

"14/2 on a 15A breaker is fine for your fridge. " Usually. 90+% of time. But if re-wiring any way, just a few cents more, depending on length of run.

Some reefers as they get older get stubborn compressors. Just left thread in that "inferior forum" guy had old reefer for free, gonna be garage beer box. Would sometimes start, then wouldn't re-start just hum, sometimes blew 15A circuit. After all sorts of advice, installed a short 20A circuit, so far no problems.

" I have never seen a fridge or microwave with a 20A plug on it" I have. And here is quote from a big box buying guide, "Appliances, such as microwaves, often have 20-amp plugs and  must be plugged into a 20-amp outlet."

So, IMHO, if rewiring anyway; and considering type of reefer, microwave, whatever; and costs involved ,20 on 12 is "better."


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

Newer refrigerators are now using less energy than the older appliances. I doubt that whoever wrote about the 20 amp plugs at the big box appliance section has ever taken a look or found a 20 amp cord cap.


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## darren (Nov 25, 2005)

Who cares if it has place for 500 pizza the cord end is still a normal 15A plug so 20A is a waste.

I have never seen a home appliance with a 20A cord end on it, I have only seen a few in the commercial work i do on a daily basis.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

I've seen, found, and used 20 amp cord caps. I've purchased them at big boxes and electrical supply houses, even Habitat for Humanity Restores, . I've seen them on new domestic microwaves and reefers. I've even seen electricians install 20A outlets on walls in kitchens I've remodeled. There is no need for you to get up on your high horse. 

Yes, newer appliances appliances use less energy than older ones. A small "dorm sized" one only draws 4 amps, I should be able to run that one on bell wire and an in line fuse. 

A quick Google will find lots of microwaves that require a 20 amp circuit, mostly built ins that are hardwired. Many more recommend it. A quick Google will find many reefers that recommend, if not require a 20A circuit. A quick ramble thru this or other DIY forums , DIY and electrical advice sites, many hosted by licensed electricians such as yourself , also shows lots of 20A recommendations.  


Here's a guy, Degree in Electrical Construction & Maintenance (Dean's List), Master electrician,OSHA Safety Certified (10 & 30) runs two electrical companies “...with a short run of 12/2 ...Connecting the microwave this way....(to a new receptacle mounted to an old work box) - it will be tied into a 120 volt 20 amp circuit....and be properly protected.”
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Electrical-Wiring-Home-1734/Undercabinet-Oven-Microwave-wiring.htm


These guys say 12 on 20 is required, I never said that, http://electrical.about.com/od/wiringcircuitry/tp/kitchenwiringcircuits.htm


Here's from my reefer manual, “A 115 volt, 60 Hz., AC only, 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded
electrical supply is required.”
https://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/MLPDF/User%20Instructions%20-%20W10407369.pdf
page 6


A microwave manual “A 120 volt, 60 Hz, AC only, 15- or 20-amp electrical supply
with a fuse or circuit breaker”
http://www.whirlpool.com/digitalassets/GH7208XRS/Installation%20Instruction_EN.pdf
page 3


“I have never seen a home appliance with a 20A cord end on it” As I said, I have. I can't say what you see in commercial applications but 20A is not rare on commercial stand alone reefers and freezers here and take a look at 1200 watt and larger commercial micro waves.  


A waste? 3 or 4 cent difference in price per foot between 14/2 and 12/2 NM-B. If you read my posts, you'd see that I agree that 15A is fine and no problem. You'll also see why I think 20A is better.


I can still build a house with 2x4 studs and meet code most places, but 2x6 despite the few dollars more is better. For one thing, and this is not me saying this but a structural engineer, “... when the electrician and plumber get through drilling their holes, at least some of the stud is left with the 2X6 stud." 

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=316468


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Jim Port said:


> Newer refrigerators are now using less energy than the older appliances. I doubt that whoever wrote about the 20 amp plugs at the big box appliance section has ever taken a look or found a 20 amp cord cap.





darren said:


> Who cares if it has place for 500 pizza the cord end is still a normal 15A plug so 20A is a waste.
> 
> I have never seen a home appliance with a 20A cord end on it, I have only seen a few in the commercial work i do on a daily basis.


Yeah you guys. Get down off your high horses! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


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## darren (Nov 25, 2005)

Speedy Petey said:


> Yeah you guys. Get down off your high horses! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


Sorry I saw Jim up there and wanted to go up as well.:thumbup:


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

You are right Petey, I was getting a nose bleed up there.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

Glad you're amused, if you've seen my posts you know i like to bring a bit of lightheartedness to the subject, as well as advice based on knowledge I've gained over last 50 years or so. I'll also throw in some opinions and disagree with other opinions. I've never talked down to anyone or called anyone a liar, which is what jim came very close to doing. 
I have no beef with darren, merely a disagreement over whether up grading to 20 amp is a waste or improvement. He might convince me, but we'll probably never agree on that. 
I'm sure Mr Port is very knowledgeable and proficient at his trade. If he wants to argue with manufacturers, other electricians, or even poor ignorant me, stumbling around the huge scary big box, not even knowing what I am looking for, he probably has points worth listening to. But ad hominem arguments rarely convince any one of anything.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

HARRY304E said:


> All the receptacles in a kitchen must be on 20 amp circuits except the refrigerator which can be on a 15 amp circuit with no other loads.


No, not all receptacles in a kitchen, regardless of the 15A or greater fridge circuit, are required to be on a 20A circuit-only SABCs.

Dishwasher, disposer, compactor, range hood, etc could also be on 15A circuits.


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## Dave632 (Sep 18, 2012)

Code05 said:


> No, not all *receptacles* in a kitchen, regardless of the 15A or greater fridge circuit, are required to be on a 20A circuit-only SABCs.
> 
> Dishwasher, disposer, compactor, range hood, etc could also be on 15A circuits.


Usually, the dishwasher, disposal, etc. are hard wired, aren't they?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Dave632 said:


> Usually, the dishwasher, disposal, etc. are hard wired, aren't they?


dishwasher - commonly hardwired but can be plug and corded to meet the requirement for a disconnect.

Disposer - more often plug and cord but can be hardwired.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

I am not trying to insinuate that anyone is lying. I do however have a healthy doubt of much that is written and does not seem to have much basis like the part about the big box information. Even the built-in Sub Zero in one kitchen I worked on had a 15 amp cord end.

I would consider the 20 amp circuit an improvement if the homeowner was getting a benefit from it. I looked at my refrigerator and it shows less than 7 amps. This is less than half of even the 15 amp circuit so not even the smaller circuit is close to being maxed out.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

*Jim*, I owe you an apology, here it is. I misread your post and jumped to conclusion, not 1st time for me. "...whoever wrote about the 20 amp plugs *at* the big box appliance section..." I see now you were addressing big box writer not me. If you wanta remount, I'll even give you a leg up. ( This is 2nd time I'm typing this, 'puter crashed just as i hit "Post" and who knows where, 1st attempt wound up. So you know i mean apology.)

None the less, more and more opinions and advice, some from more "authoritative" sites than these anonymous forums, is for 20A dedicated circuits for large appliances, especially hardwired ones and many manufacturers of combo range hood/ microwaves require it. 

20A is overkill, but if price and other things are considered it may be "better," just as over building a wall may be. A "better" than 15A on 14 would be 15/12. No need to re-plug appliance or replace outlets. I've been using NM 12-3 for my new or re-wiring 'cause I get a great deal on partial rolls at Hab for Humanity Restore, less than 14 at big box.

*Code05*, ya got me confused, another common state for me. "...not all receptacles in a kitchen... are required to be on a 20A circuit-only SABCs." So SA's need to be on 20A? But larger ones can be on 15? Or am I misreading something again? Misinterpreting what is meant by SABC? When does appliance stop being small and become power hungry behemoth ?

In re-reading to see where thread got off track from Fixin's original query, I saw this,"i have enough 14/3... i will run the fridge off 1 wire, then the rest of the "whatever" off the other wire." I'm assuming he won't run both hots off same breaker, but wouldn't that require a separate or at least larger neutral?

*Fixin*, " owners emanual.... doesn't even say the power consumption" There may be a seperate installation manual, go to manufacturer's site and see if they have online manuals. There also may be a spec section for your model. ( Bet it says to connect to 15 or* 20 *amp circuit.:wink

OK were it goes, gonna push button. Wish me luck, good or bad, depending if you are on Percheron or Shetland pony.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

No problem. :thumbsup:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

this is the fridge i have. i still don't see where it states power consumption.
http://www.lg.com/us/refrigerators/lg-LFX31925ST-french-3-door-refrigerator

but at any rate, with the newer models being more energy efficient, i believe i am ok with what i did. as the new wire is better quality. and the old wire has been running at higher volumes for decades.


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## Dave632 (Sep 18, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> this is the fridge i have. i still don't see where it states power consumption.
> http://www.lg.com/us/refrigerators/lg-LFX31925ST-french-3-door-refrigerator
> 
> but at any rate, with the newer models being more energy efficient, i believe i am ok with what i did. as the new wire is better quality. and the old wire has been running at higher volumes for decades.


Fix'n's right. I followed every link I could on the LG site, and nothing about current consumption. Owner's manual, spec sheet, tech specifications page... the closest it came was saying 115VAC @ 60Hz, which wasn't exactly a surprise.

About the only place I could think to look would be on the back panel of the fridge itself for some kind of builder's plate.

By the way, fix'n, how did you fit the fork lift into your kitchen to position that monster? :icon_smile:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Dave632 said:


> By the way, fix'n, how did you fit the fork lift into your kitchen to position that monster? :icon_smile:


lol, it was delivered and installed. they had to take it apart to get it in. 
i gave em a $20 tip. 

this is a darned nice fridge. we got the micro and stove also. no dish washer yet, as there is no spot for it.


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## Dave632 (Sep 18, 2012)

FYI, I checked my 21 cu ft fridge, about 8-10 yrs old. Found the current rating on a sticker inside the refrigerator compartment. It says "4.5A", so just scaling volumes yours is probably somewhere around 7 amps.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Just my 2 cents here, when I wired my kitchen, I was required to have all outlets on GFCI and 20 amps.
I only have 2 circuits, one for fridge and 2 outlets and the rest (4 outlets and the one for our propane oven).

DM


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

" how did you fit the fork lift into your kitchen to position that monster?" 

You got that right. When wife bought our monster. I got E manual, to get size and clearance for built in cubby. First page of installation book was how to take handles and doors off reefer so you could get it thru door into house. Luckily we got French doors in back. When I saw that four guys were wrestling the thing, I had um take a break while I made an extended "track" from 1X's on floor so it could slide into position. No way were we gonna be able to line it up once it was in there. If I'da thought, I'da left end off cabinet. Now I wish I'd devised some kinda detachable end. Just in case I gotta get it out.

Haven't laid floor yet, it may extend just barely under lower trim of behemoth, or mite hire gorilla or rent weight lifter with long skinny arms. Of course with extra long 12 gauge wire connection, I can just toss a loop of it over top and pull it out with 20 amp winch. Told ya it was "better." .

"* where it states power consumption.*" I found it, gimmee a cigar, page 10 http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/1.MFL62184416-E.pdf 
"its own individual properly grounded electrical outlet rated for 115 Volts, 60 Hz, AC only, and fused at 15 or 20 amperes."


On page 4 it sez, "Do not put live animals inside of the refrigerator." I guess they'll eat all your food or scratch up the enterior or somethin'. But now where is the dog gonna sleep? This could be ploy by wives contacting manufacturers. Mrsnot, for some reason,gets all upset when she thinks she's opening cottage cheese and finds my fishin worms instead.


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## Dave632 (Sep 18, 2012)

notmrjohn said:


> " how did you fit the fork lift into your kitchen to position that monster?"
> 
> You got that right. When wife bought our monster. I got E manual, to get size and clearance for built in cubby. First page of installation book was how to take handles and doors off reefer so you could get it thru door into house.


Another thought. I might consider doubling the floor joists in that section of the kitchen.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

"required to have all outlets on GFCI and 20 amps." Looks like some codes are being changed. I'm seeing sites that are saying 20A is_ required_ for everything except lighting circuits. 2 cents, 2 circuits. I guess if the lights go out, you can open the fridge, just don't let that animal out.

GFCI, but there's that thread where the guy couldn't get older reefer to run in garage, where GFCI's were required. Kept tripping it, plugged into garage door opener, it worked fine. 

" doubling the floor joists" I guess slab foundation isn't such bad idea as I thot. Only trouble is, the whole house is tilting, and I keep falling out of bed. All my marbles have rolled into kitchen behind fridge.


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## OCPik4chu (Sep 22, 2012)

notmrjohn said:


> "required to have all outlets on GFCI and 20 amps." Looks like some codes are being changed. I'm seeing sites that are saying 20A is_ required_ for everything except lighting circuits. 2 cents, 2 circuits. I guess if the lights go out, you can open the fridge, just don't let that animal out.
> 
> GFCI, but there's that thread where the guy couldn't get older reefer to run in garage, where GFCI's were required. Kept tripping it, plugged into garage door opener, it worked fine.
> 
> " doubling the floor joists" I guess slab foundation isn't such bad idea as I thot. Only trouble is, the whole house is tilting, and I keep falling out of bed. All my marbles have rolled into kitchen behind fridge.


Just move the fridge to the other side of the house to balance out the tilting 

I redid the outlets in my kitchen recently because NONE of them were GFCI. When we looked up the code to verify it said something like only outlets that were within 6ft of a water source required it. I havent had anyone tell me GFCI is required in the entire kitchen yet so maybe its something that varies by area?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

notmrjohn said:


> but there's that thread where the guy couldn't get older reefer to run in garage, where GFCI's were required. Kept tripping it, plugged into garage door opener, it worked fine.


Yeah, and every time his wife's or kid's cars came or left, the fridge door opened and he had an excuse to go out to the garage and have a beer while closing the door. :laughing:

DM


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

OCPik4chu said:


> Just move the fridge to the other side of the house to balance out the tilting
> 
> I redid the outlets in my kitchen recently because NONE of them were GFCI. When we looked up the code to verify it said something like only outlets that were within 6ft of a water source required it. I havent had anyone tell me GFCI is required in the entire kitchen yet so maybe its something that varies by area?


The 6 foot rule was eliminated many years ago fro the kitchen area.
The code now states that all counter top receptacles be gfci protected.
The new 6' rule applies to laundry rooms and laundry sinks.


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## OCPik4chu (Sep 22, 2012)

jbfan said:


> The 6 foot rule was eliminated many years ago fro the kitchen area.
> The code now states that all counter top receptacles be gfci protected.
> The new 6' rule applies to laundry rooms and laundry sinks.


Interesting, guess that means I have an island countertop outlet that needs to be a GFCI instead. 

I figured I would need to replace the outlet near the washer with a GFCI, we dont use the outlet for anything so thats why I hadnt done it yet. Thanks for the info.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

"The 6 foot rule was eliminated many years ago" unfortunately nobody told the college football refs that.

OC, just set your 25' tape measure on island, it out ranks 6 foot rule.

"Just move the fridge to the other side of the house" and have all those marbles come rolling into the bed room keeping me awake all night? Besides my hired gorilla and fixin's delivery man eloped on dave's forklift. Back into the driveway, mouse, I need a beer, none of that lite stuff make it a 20 amp.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I just PM'd you a 20 amp beer.... *Enjoy!*

DM


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## OCPik4chu (Sep 22, 2012)

notmrjohn said:


> "The 6 foot rule was eliminated many years ago" unfortunately nobody told the college football refs that.
> 
> OC, just set your 25' tape measure on island, it out ranks 6 foot rule.
> 
> "Just move the fridge to the other side of the house" and have all those marbles come rolling into the bed room keeping me awake all night? Besides my hired gorilla and fixin's delivery man eloped on dave's forklift. Back into the driveway, mouse, I need a beer, none of that lite stuff make it a 20 amp.


Its a small kitchen, the island is barely <8' from the sink, outlet being maybe 9-10' There is plenty of things in this house that were not done to code, or were back then and is now completely wrong, lol.

And my fridge actually is on its own 15amp breaker. Ive checked


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

OCPik4chu said:


> Its a small kitchen, the island is barely <8' from the sink, outlet being maybe 9-10' There is plenty of things in this house that were not done to code, *or were back then and is now completely wrong, lol.*
> 
> And my fridge actually is on its own 15amp breaker. Ive checked


There is no requirement to continually update an electrical system everytime the NEC changes. If it was safe when it was installed, it is still safe today. I built my house 27 years ago and wired it under the 1984 NEC and there is nothing unsafe in it. There is no need to update anything for the sake of "keeping it up to code".

WOW! Post number 900.:thumbup: 6300 more and I'll be an expert too!!:yes:


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

" I'll be an expert too"
But you're already an "inspector" is it possible to be both?:wink:

Besides the Mouse is over 10,000 but he's still a rodent.

What with all this "required" or maybe not, 20 amp for small appliances, bell wire for garbage compressors, and 6 feet tall outlets , and dedicated water lines, and GFCI's on garage door opener remote, and havin to put 20A plugs and #8 wire on our desk lamps, I think the "experts" who are writing and/or interpreting the codes are drinkin more than 20A PM beer.


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

notmrjohn said:


> " I'll be an expert too"
> But you're already an "inspector" is it possible to be both?:wink:
> 
> Besides the Mouse is over 10,000 but he's still a rodent.
> ...


Thanks for the laugh!


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## OCPik4chu (Sep 22, 2012)

electures said:


> There is no requirement to continually update an electrical system everytime the NEC changes. If it was safe when it was installed, it is still safe today. I built my house 27 years ago and wired it under the 1984 NEC and there is nothing unsafe in it. There is no need to update anything for the sake of "keeping it up to code".
> 
> WOW! Post number 900.:thumbup: 6300 more and I'll be an expert too!!:yes:


I do understand that house wiring doesn't need to be updated to code but not having a GFCI outlet next to the sink doesn't sound safe to me. Also when I say 'not done to code" I mainly mean it wasn't done to ANY code, ie if an inspector had actually been called in to check it wouldn't have passed in the first place. That's the kind of stuff Im 'updating'.

*edit* and yes I am aware of what a GFCI outlet actually is designed to do and what it doesnt do


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

" a GFCI outlet next to the sink doesn't sound safe" safer than non protected, but safer to keep any a few feet away. Garbage disposal, dishwasher outlets are usually *below* sink, probably directly under dripping faucet. Put a drip loop on the cord.


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## OCPik4chu (Sep 22, 2012)

notmrjohn said:


> " a GFCI outlet next to the sink doesn't sound safe" safer than non protected, but safer to keep any a few feet away. Garbage disposal, dishwasher outlets are usually *below* sink, probably directly under dripping faucet. Put a drip loop on the cord.


Sorry, I think you misread. I said *not* having a GFCI outlet next to a sink didn't sound safe. Kind of bad grammar on my part lol.

The dishwasher is hardwired in afaik. disposal was in violation when I was buying the house, made seller hire electrician to fix it. Its also plugged into a GFCI outlet under the sink and has a drip loop in it. Sink, back splash and counter top were also re-caulked.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

O I C, OC, you meant not not having not not having. Sorta like, its not a given that people who are not notmrjohn are not mrjohn and people who are not mrjohn are not notmrjohn. This thread is getting knottier by the minute, not naughtier, but nottier and knottier. I hope it is not all for naught.


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## OCPik4chu (Sep 22, 2012)

notmrjohn said:


> O I C, OC, you meant not not having not not having. Sorta like, its not a given that people who are not notmrjohn are not mrjohn and people who are not mrjohn are not notmrjohn. This thread is getting knottier by the minute, not naughtier, but nottier and knottier.


Exactly :thumbup:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

update

the house is still standing :yes::thumbup:

i just found out that the fridge uses 5.2 amps.


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