# help choosing paint brands



## paintinGirl (Sep 23, 2006)

hi, i'm wanting to paint my room brown, and i don't want to buy just any kind of paint. i don't want it to look like some of those high gloss, shiny paints, i just want a sort of matte look i think. any advice on what brands and where i can get it?


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## KCnorthernCA (Jun 19, 2006)

Consumer Reports rates *Behr Premium Plus Enamel* highest in many categories. I believe it's also one of the better-priced brands, too, so it gets their "recommend" star.

If you want to get into the various performance features of paint, however, CR and many pro painters will qualify each brand according to what you want to do with it. For example, if I recall, the "fading" category is where Behr is not top rated, but just very good. In the important category of "coverage" there's none better. Home Depot sells Behr.

As for gloss and shine, every brand offers about five "sheens." You just choose one for your purpose. These are like Flat, Satin, Eggshell, Semi-gloss, Gloss, perhaps named differently.


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## YourWayPainting (Sep 11, 2006)

PaintinGirl,
You might want to check with some of your local paint suppliers. I would not recommend Behr, but I’m a painter … and that’s just MY opinion.
Whatever you choose, make sure that you get a good high-end paint. Never pick what’s cheapest … or you will pay for it later.


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Most painters I know like Benjamin Moore Paints...Its not cheap but when you start working with it and you see the finish you realize that it is worth the money

It sounds like what you are looking for in terms of sheen is flat or maybe satin if you want a slight slight sheen.

My bedrooms I always paint in a flat.

By the way good to have ya at the forum...


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

*paintingirl*

I agree with the opinion of Benjamin Moore paints.

We had our home painted 3 years ago, with BM paint and I really love it.
It is washable, (and that is really important)

May cost a bit more, but really worth it.


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## kellstar painting (Sep 21, 2006)

Stay away from Behr.... California...Ben Moore...Sherwin Williams 
and the word Matte is the same for flat.


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

kellstar painting said:


> Stay away from Behr.... California...Ben Moore...Sherwin Williams
> and the word Matte is the same for flat.


Why would you say to stay away from Ben Moore?...It is a staple for two particular pro painters that I know.


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## KCnorthernCA (Jun 19, 2006)

kellstar painting said:


> Stay away from Behr.... California...


I've used Ben Moore once. It wasn't anything to write home about. The Behr in every other room is just fine. So I'm curious about this anti-Behr opinion.

I'm no painting pro, so I can only trust non-profit third party testing labs like CR when it comes to evaluating so many different brands in so many different test categories.

What is it exactly about Behr that's so horrible? Is it just the low price or the fact that big box HD sells it? :detective:


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## Mysticman (Sep 24, 2006)

I've used Benjamin Moore and Restoration Hardware brand. I love the Benjamin Moore - it goes on exceptionally well.

However, Behr did win (in 2004 I think) for one of the best paints (price vs. quality) with Benjamin Moore coming in 2nd....


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## Paintguy26 (May 22, 2006)

Ok...I AM A PAINTER....I HAVE USED ALL THE PAINTS MENTIONED BY EVERY ANSWER. 

Now....Sherwin-Williams is best. :thumbsup: Followed by Ben. Moore. Then maybe Pittsburgh............. 

BEHR IS CRAP hence the place you purchase it is NOT a paint store and what they call there "premium paint" goes for $24....:laughing: 

CONSUMER REPORTS ARE FOR BORED HOMEOWNERS WHO WANT TO CHALLENGE CONTRACTORS~SO I DESPISE ANYONE WHO FOLLOWS THEM~AFTER ALL THEY ARE NOT EVER COMPARING SIMILAR QUALITY PRODUCTS:no: 

CONGRATULATIONS....I have provided you with some EYE opening facts from......YEP....YOU GUESSED IT...........................A PAINTER!


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## kellstar painting (Sep 21, 2006)

*Sorry*

no... I meant... stay away from behr..... use..ben moore ...california...sherwin williams.....sorry 4 the wording


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## Autumnknight (Sep 11, 2006)

What do you think of Pratt & Lambert paints?


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

There is a thread going on right now about Sherman Williams Duration line of paints...people really seem to like it...Think Ill try some for the trim in my living room.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Out of the paints I've used:

I'd recommend Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams, and Pittsburgh's premium lines
You can usually get them at a Paint Shop

I can not recommend the Behr, AmTrad, Kilz Kolors, Glidden, or any of the other big box, HD, W*M, Lowes, Sears, etc. paints
They are pretty bad
Behr paints and stains being the absolute worse

I've used a little P&L and had no problems
I'd use it again


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

wow we have really jacked this womens thread...

Slickshift and other pros, what about a recomendation for water or acrylic based primer for bedrooms, living rooms etc...no moisture exposure interior projects...lets just say over a previous coat of latex paint on drywall...I always use Kilz and whatever else jumps off the shelf and my neighbor (a painter) always groans at whatver I get but never has any good input otherwise...


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## kellstar painting (Sep 21, 2006)

1st off....Pratt and Lambert is good for new construction..love it for ceilings ...but doesn't stand up to ben moore or sw..or california.

Interior primer?.....just over paint? on walls with no problems latex all the way...if there is water stains or other serious stuff use only oil.

Company's..well every homeowner uses kills.. cuz they are programed to thru advertizing... if you don't beleive me name 5 others?.. we use kills sometimes for certain stains..but if we are a ben moore guy we use ben moore primer....lots of other primers will do the job... geeze even glidden came out with a product called grabber that works well... but i'd say S.W or Ben Moore.


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## SgtBaldy (Jul 18, 2006)

Zinnser 1-2-3 is by far the best acrylic primer IMHO. You need to use oil on water stains though.


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

I like the zinnser line of primers better than those from SW, but i won't paint with anything but SW paints. Duration is my absolute favorite and worth the extra $. 1-2-3 is good for relativly minor covers, but for nasty nasty stuff, BIN is unreal! 30 years of nicotine on a white textured ceiling and BIN kicked its ass.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

dougrus said:


> Slickshift and other pros, what about a recomendation for water or acrylic based primer for bedrooms, living rooms etc...no moisture exposure interior projects...lets just say over a previous coat of latex paint on drywall...


You almost never need to primer those types of repaints

If, for some reason you did, it would probably be best to take it on a case by case basis
It depends on why you need to prime as to what the best primer for your application would be

If you are using Kilz2 and your painter is groaning, that's because Kilz2 sucks
I'd be concerned about paint failure if it was used
The Original Kilz (oil-based) is the only product from that company that is any good
The rest of the products from that company stink on ice


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Slickshift,

In my bathroom I used Kilz Premium Interior/Exterior water base primer (it has a gold label Not Kilz 2 but Kilz none the less)
I used Dans Armor mildew/mold resistent drywall and I primed it with this stuff...also on the crown.
Should I be concerned? 8|
The paint looks pretty uniform...I used Ben Moore...Eggshell I think.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

dougrus said:


> ...I used Kilz Premium Interior/Exterior water base primer (it has a gold label Not Kilz 2 but Kilz none the less)
> ....Should I be concerned? 8|


Please keep in mind that I can't/won't use something that fails even a few times out of, say 25 or 50 projects, so generally I won't recommend that something to others
That doesn't mean it won't work fine for some, or even most

I wouldn't worry about it unless it starts to fail
I just really can't recommend it, if you know what I mean


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## dferber (Sep 24, 2006)

I read this post and just have to put in my 2 cents of nonprofessional advice. PRIME PRIME PRIME the walls! What a difference it makes and all kinds of paint will go on easier, more evenly, and look great. I have painted many walls WITHOUT priming, and it really does make a difference in the ease of application of the paint and the final result. It's an extra step but well worth it. So, do good prep work and you will get a good result from a variety of paints. (once I got the "best" brand from Sears and was sadly disappointed and that was the one and only time I ever actually returned a can of paint to the store with a complaint. So, in my experience, the most expensive is not necessarily the best one. At least in this instance it wasn't).................Hm....reread the post and not sure where the beginning is. oh well. u get the idea.


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Understood...Ill keep an eye on it, especially in the 1" or so above the tiled bath surround...:whistling2:


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

dferber said:


> I read this post and just have to put in my 2 cents of nonprofessional advice. PRIME PRIME PRIME the walls! What a difference it makes and all kinds of paint will go on easier, more evenly, and look great. I have painted many walls WITHOUT priming, and it really does make a difference in the ease of application of the paint and the final result. It's an extra step but well worth it. So, do good prep work and you will get a good result from a variety of paints. (once I got the "best" brand from Sears and was sadly disappointed and that was the one and only time I ever actually returned a can of paint to the store with a complaint. So, in my experience, the most expensive is not necessarily the best one. At least in this instance it wasn't).................Hm....reread the post and not sure where the beginning is. oh well. u get the idea.


 
Sorry, but I have to disagree about prime prime prime. If the walls are poorly painted, chipped, damaged, etc, I can understand repriming. However, usually, I won't even fully prime even if I am repairing holes and such -I'll spot prime. If you use a quality paint like SW or BM, priming a perfectly painted wall won't make any difference at all in my opinion. Sherwin Williams Duration goes on JUST as smooth over paint as it does primer and the result is indisguishable. I do however, agree with you 100% on the importance of prep work. Sanding, spackling, etc, etc. Can make or break a paint job.


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## KCnorthernCA (Jun 19, 2006)

Paintguy26 said:


> ...BEHR IS CRAP hence the place you purchase it is NOT a paint store...


Thanks! It's clear now why Behr is crap! :whistling2:

As for surface prep, I also don't bother with primer IF THERE'S ALREADY OLD PAINT. Cleaning thoroughly, however, is essential. I scrub down with a solution of TSP, then rinse-scrub a couple of times with clean water. That way, nobody can tell the difference between Behr and BenMoore... they'd have to look at my receipts.


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## Paintguy26 (May 22, 2006)

KC

Say what you will....I am a experienced painter by trade :thumbsup: so therefore I know paint and it's quality.....


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Don't make me pull this thread over
'Cause if I do I'll turn right around and we'll head right back home
:wink: 

All opinions are valued here, even if they differ from the "conventional wisdom" we are accustomed to

As for paint, and CR, Behr, etc...
Many DIYers have different criteria, and there is paint designed and marketed to them
Things like cost, the wet paint in the can looking like the chip and drying fast
Making the paint perform that way, it doesn't make the paint perform or look better, in fact, it doesn't perform or look good at all
But it address' novice DIY consumer one project concerns

Things like maintaining a wet edge, smooth lay out, even sheen, and easy touch-up rarely enter a one-time, or even part time DIYers criteria
Never mind better adhesion, better coverage, better workability, better resistance to abrasion, and better fade resistance
Those things make a better paint

I enjoy and support the CU and their magazine CR
They are full of interesting information
When they say that certain air filters spew more ozone then clean up the air I listen
When they say the new 28volt cordless drills melt their internals driving lag bolts I take note

They certainly do use the Scientific Method (note caps) for repeatable quantifiable tests and test results

However:
When I am buying a new computer I check the ratings from PC World, not CR
When buying a vehicle, I may see what CR says, but will defer to Car & Driver or Autoweek
When CR does not recommend any hammer drills (none!) because of the noise they make, I basically agree with them
For most Homeowners a hammer drill is not the right tool
But if you are building decks....you are going to need one

My point in regards to CRs paint testing is:

CR does not use professional painters, or professional painting criteria to evaluate paint

They certainly use a Scientific Method of evaluation, but look at the little boxes with the points they use to rate the products
There's maybe one or two testing areas out of seven (going from memory here) that mean anything to a professional painter
....and many other areas that are very important to me that aren't even touched

I find the CR test results interesting
But the reality of the situation is that the paints I find better to work with from a professional standpoint, the DIYer will also find better to work with and nicer looking

I can't even begin to tell you how many DIYer problems show up on these forums that are solved by better tools and better paints

I'm not a pro painter spoiled by over-charging my customers for the good stuff
Trust me, if I could save a few bucks on paint I would
If it was all the same, why wouldn't I?
The fact is, using the cheap paints cost me time and money
The effort to make them look good can _double my price for labor only over labor + me supplying the premium paint_
.
It can take 3 - 5 coats of Behr to achieve a passable quality paint job
I realized at one point, to make money like on my other paint jobs, that I had to _triple my bids that spec'd Behr_..and double the amount of paint req'd!
There's no saving money that way

Now, I've had DIYers tell me, "But my labor's free"
Well, no...it's not
The best way can describe it to someone who doesn't value their time is:
If you had the choice to spend all of Saturday, and all of Sunday painting your bathroom, or spend 4 hours on Saturday painting your bathroom and having it look better (yes, we can tell the difference) which would you choose?

If someone's had good luck with Behr, and they want to use it again... God Bless them, carry on and whatnot
However, I can't possibly recommend it


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## Double A (Sep 10, 2006)

OK Slick, so if I'm reading this right, you don't like Behr. Is that a fair assessment?:laughing: 

<runs away>


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## Paintguy26 (May 22, 2006)

Slick
What a nice, detailed way of concluding your view of Behr:thumbsup: ....I think we all know how you 'really' feel now 

I know I know....I should back off a bit in here- see you guys in the Contractor Talk...


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## J187 (May 19, 2006)

slickshift said:


> Don't make me pull this thread over
> 'Cause if I do I'll turn right around and we'll head right back home
> :wink:
> 
> ...


Ok, first of all. you don't scare me. With the cost of gas the way it is, I know damn well you aren't turning around and heading all the way home! 

Second, I applauded the "use of caps" in the first Scientific Method, but you fell off on the second one?? LOL.



Anyway, here's my story. When I bought my house, the disclosure in the listing said, "needs paint". Which I ignored because I seldom agree with paint schemes in other's houses anyway and I was going to paint probably regardless. When I got there, there were doors and trim which were an older dark stained wood. The owner tried to paint over them with.....da da da...Behr. I can't remember what he said he primed with, I think it was Glidden of some kind? ANyway, of all the doors in the hall, a couple had been painted white with behr - 2 coats according to owner - and one had been primed but not yet painted, another hadn't been touched. The ones painted white w/ behr looked the milk left in a glass after you had dipped 3 or 4 oreo cookies in it! My first experiment was to take the door that he had already primed and hit it with a coat of Sherwin Williams Superpaint Snowbound Satin Sheen. ONE COAT and it covered PERFECTLY. Side by side, the difference was unmeasurable. Good paint like SW or BM ends up costing less anyway after you've used a gallon of Behr vs a quart of the good stuff. A couple months later, at my work they were remodelling and I got a chance to actually apply the Behr they had purchased. I got so frustrated, that I actually offered to go 12 miles on my day off to SW and pick up some paint for them for the other walls. I don't want to mock anyone, I don't want to force my opinion, but If you like Behr paint, or Ralph Lauren for that matter, consider trying something "better" and at least be able to make an objective comparison.


Also, I hope everyone remembers that guys like SLick and ProPainter have no agenda here. They have no self-interest in steering anyone one way or the other. They are offering their "professional" opinions as a curteousy and a service to us. We all have the right to disagree, but we always keep in mind that they probably have all the tools available to make educated comparisons whereas some of us have ONLY painted with Behr or never have. That's why I take opportunities to try as many different things that I can........One of the walls in my house has been drywalled with Durabond, lightweight JC, All purpose JC, Mesh tape, paper tape, etc, etc.


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## KCnorthernCA (Jun 19, 2006)

slickshift said:


> Don't make me pull this thread over...


Wait. I think we're finally getting somewhere! Thanks for the expanded comments, Slick. :scooter:

First, I must clarify that I'm not even offering my own opinion here on paints. I don't know crap. I don't have an opinion except what I learn from others. I neither like nor dislike Behr just from using it. I only know that a neutral third party recommended it. Same for BenMoore. And LO AND BEHOLD, Behr works just fine! 

In fact, that's why I'm here reading the advice of others (and sharing some of my own experiences -- hey, isn't that what these forums are all about?).

And Paintguy26, I'm not mocking you or anybody else. If you read my words for only what they say, I'm merely asking with curiosity what exactly is it about Behr that's so crappy while other brands are so better. You never explained it. Nor did most others. Just putting forth your "since I'm a pro, my personal pick must be gold" is less than crap. Anybody can say that. At the same time I'm trying not to be offended by your "despising" of people who mention CR. :tt2:

Now, Slick has described some criteria in choosing paint:
- cost
- matching chip sample
- fast drying

- maintains a wet edge
- smoothness
- even sheen
- easy touch-up

- adhesion
- coverage
- workability
- durability ("resistance to abrasion")
- fade resistance

His first three are assigned to the criteria of "novice DIYers." Next four he says are more professional. Last five are supposed to be the real deal.

But Slick tries too hard to show respect for CU and their CR publication while at the same time disdaining their "scientific method." Slick, it's not their scientific method that's faulty. I don't rely on CR for their choice of cars. Why? Because they got no style. They got lousy timing. They totally ignore certain aspects like ease of repair, brand loyalties, and many personal "intangibles," which is huge in this image-conscious society. So CR has its place. And cars are complex machines.

Then to say CR doesn't "use professional painters" goes right back to the "I'm a pro, therefore my personal pick must be gold" line of reasoning. I'm not defending CR, but the scientific method, by definition, replicates the actual processes while eliminating personal opinion. Otherwise you put the cart before the horse -- you got your conclusions before you ever test it.

Guess what. I looked it up again. CR's criteria for interior paints are:

- Hiding (coverage)
- Mildew resistance
- Stain resistance 
- Scrubbing (durability)
- Smoothness
- Match stated sheen (even sheen)
- Fading
- Price

Apparently they ARE rather thorough! And they're pretty much the same criteria as Slick's! Still, CR being the MOFO's that they are, ignored a few:

- matching chip sample: But that has to do with fading, no?
- fast drying: Depends on relative humidity, no?
- maintains a wet edge: Same problem with the weather, no?
- easy touch-up: Depends on how lazy your are, no?
- adhesion: Depends on surface prep, no?
- *workability*: What exactly is that? Viscosity? Paint is a simple liquid material. But then, once "installed" the owner has to live with it. The one-time installation process alone, or "workability" should not sway any paying customer one way or another. So is that the bottom line? Pros prefer thicker gooey-er paint? It's certainly not "coverage" because we've already gone over that above.

It seems slick's criteria is essentially the same as that used by CR! Except CR separately tests each criteria regardless of reputation or price. And they separately test exterior paint.

Slick, am I correct that you're a forum moderator? That's why you can "pull this thread over?" :notworthy:


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## RussellF (Sep 1, 2006)

I am like Benjamin Moore and always recommend it to customers........sometimes like the job I am at the customers provide the paint for me...... This customer brought in some Pittsburgh paint and I would not recommend it to anyone after what I have experienced. It is a interor latex semi-gloss and(pastel Base 9-510) and I was cutting around a wall and by the time I got back with the roller it was drying.......so it pulled the paint........not much time had passed too.


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## kellstar painting (Sep 21, 2006)

Alright.....As a professional painter who paints 7 days a week.. here's my story with behr... I think I've actually used it alot more than most painters.... you see I started my buisness with a Home depot charge card..... I started with new contruction...and used behr for everything
then went outside for exteriors and kept useing it.... i kept litterature in my truck on it at all times... had 5 fan decks (color charts) w/ me always... even know the name of the regional rep of behr in my area... have behr hats...and shirts.... I've been painting on and off for 15 years and I backed up behr with my reputation for a good year... I now only use Ben Moore... California.... Sherwin Williams.... The new thing with paints is the washable flats.... behr just dosent got it down right....the darker the color of behr.. the harder it is to work with... same with Ralph Lauren..(great colors though).. it drags... runs.... it dosen't cover very well... when you roll a wall you have to back brush the spot where you ended your roller.. cuz it will drag down on you...
When you paint every day you notice the things that can make a wall or peice of wood come out great ... and behr is always working against you.. the scrubbability is not like other high end paints.
Now lets talk color... cuz thats what we are really applying here right.
TRUE COLOR is achived when the wall you paint is that color. Not the color of what the wall was mixed with the color that you just put on .
I get into color... how it flows... how its affected by other colors...
the human eye has trouble distinguishing between true color and almost true color...But if your a colorist.... you know... they say true color isn't completely achived unless you prime a room with a primer tinted to the color your useing.. and then applying 2 coats finish over it...(waiting in between)..... otherwise you have to put on many coats.... good paints cut down on the amount of coats it is needed to get true color.... now there's mildew prevention.... retaining color... from many factors such as wear and tear.. sunlight... fadeing.... all of these things are easily done with only 2 coats of good stuff....

Furthermore the people who mix... instruct you.. recomend different sheens..give you advice... are completely incompedent to do so.. it's useually someone who hasn't even painted that mutch before... not to mention that they just got transfered from the electrical department (isle 5) the week before... I stand in line and here there advise and my stomach turns... I use to rescue people .. and help them but it's just too time consuming. homepage_trio.jpg

I'm sorry to go on and on.... but the truth is ..it's just a dream to work with good stuff... the way it flows off a brush.... the way it uniforms itself from cut to roll... it's a pleasure when we use the good stuff.. and it is such a hasle to use bad stuff... in fact thats why we won't .. or if we do.. we charge extra
It's just hard to explain the day to day fealing of applying good paint to someone who doesn't apply it every day.... it's like a pianist explaining ivory keys to plastic ones... it's just in the feal/flow ...
I hoped I helped even a little..


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## Paintguy26 (May 22, 2006)

kellstar painting said:


> Alright.....As a professional painter who paints 7 days a week.. here's my story with behr... I think I've actually used it alot more than most painters.... you see I started my buisness with a Home depot charge card..... I started with new contruction...and used behr for everything
> then went outside for exteriors and kept useing it.... i kept litterature in my truck on it at all times... had 5 fan decks (color charts) w/ me always... even know the name of the regional rep of behr in my area... have behr hats...and shirts.... I've been painting on and off for 15 years and I backed up behr with my reputation for a good year... I now only use Ben Moore... California.... Sherwin Williams.... The new thing with paints is the washable flats.... behr just dosent got it down right....the darker the color of behr.. the harder it is to work with... same with Ralph Lauren..(great colors though).. it drags... runs.... it dosen't cover very well... when you roll a wall you have to back brush the spot where you ended your roller.. cuz it will drag down on you...
> When you paint every day you notice the things that can make a wall or peice of wood come out great ... and behr is always working against you.. the scrubbability is not like other high end paints.
> Now lets talk color... cuz thats what we are really applying here right.
> ...


Word!


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## RussellF (Sep 1, 2006)

Kell.........you were not painting yesterday that is for sure!!!


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

KCnorthernCA said:


> It seems slick's criteria is essentially the same as that used by CR!


That's incorrect
Though some overlap, yes





KCnorthernCA said:


> Slick, am I correct that you're a forum moderator? That's why you can "pull this thread over?"


Yes
And that was an attempt at a humorous warning not to post any personal attacks
..._which I don't believe any were posted_
But as the discussion was getting a bit heated, I thought it time for a reminder


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

My experience has been just the opposite. Always use Benjamin Moore with good results. Over the years , a few customers have insisted on Behr brand and we had trouble with it every time. This is not prejudice against the big box, just unhappy results.

Recently a customer bought her own paint, store brand from Lowes.After three coats, the painter could not get the shadow out between the cut and the rolled areas.He did not want to even use the paint on the job, because he said it would be problems. Of course I blamed him for not cutting/rolling while edges were wet. Bought more paint, and I stayed on job while they repainted. When it dried, it looked just as crappy.When the owner complained still, I told her that the only way we would repaint was with our own paint. We used the Benjamin Moore, one coat, and everyone was happy.


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## rjordan392 (Apr 28, 2005)

Hello,
I just like to add that I'll never use Behr paints or stains again. The solid color stain that I use on my deck was hard to apply. It was drying too quick and this may it hard to brush in. It started to flake off after one year. I decided to use Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams the next time. This is what I have seen recommended on the Contractors forum.


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## tlg (Jul 30, 2008)

*Benjamin Moore sample colors / pearl finish*

I've just painted my living and dining room with Benjamin Moore paint (pearl finish) and I'm very happy with the way it looks and the way it went on.

The term Benjamin Moore company uses for satin is "pearl." It is a nice finish -not glossy, but still reflects light and feels good. I don't care for flat finish - It seems to suck light away, collect dirt/handprints, and feel rough. It's good for ceilings and walls with many flaws to hide.

I also like that BM has small sample paints in jars for purchase so you can get an idea of how the color looks on the wall before choosing. In our town there's a specialty BM paint store and you can buy (refundable if you bring them back) 18 inch squares of color to take home and view in the light of the room you will be painting.

Yes- It looks like I'm a fan!


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

slickshift said:


> Out of the paints I've used:
> 
> I'd recommend Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams, and Pittsburgh's premium lines
> You can usually get them at a Paint Shop
> ...


Uh-oh....I just painted my kitchen and hall with Kilz paint and primer. They both seemed to go on well, nice smooth and thick. Will the color last for me? I have three four large rooms to go and not sure whether to use the same paint after reading some comments. Should I use the SW? Is there really that much difference to offset the additional 15-20 dollars?


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## Blane (Sep 5, 2010)

I started to read this as I wanted to know the best paint for laminate kitchen cabinets. I have wasted a lot of time on "bargain" paint painting bedrooms and living spaces. "Melamine" paint is recommended but I want a high gloss finish. I've considered whether or not I need to prime if I use the melamine paint. Not sure yet. Also, If I first prime with BIN alkyd can I then use any enamel? In one instance a high gloss Marine paint was recommended.


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## hammerheart14 (Sep 2, 2010)

Blane said:


> I started to read this as I wanted to know the best paint for laminate kitchen cabinets. I have wasted a lot of time on "bargain" paint painting bedrooms and living spaces. "Melamine" paint is recommended but I want a high gloss finish. I've considered whether or not I need to prime if I use the melamine paint. Not sure yet. Also, If I first prime with BIN alkyd can I then use any enamel? In one instance a high gloss Marine paint was recommended.


ANY higher end enamel paint would work. I would recommend Pratt and Lambert Accolade Semi Gloss. That's a hard, durable finish. You could also use an acrylic industrial gloss enamel as well.

http://www.prattandlambert.com/pdf/product-data-sheets/4100.pdf


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## breakitnmakeit (Sep 5, 2010)

I just painted my whole house with Behr from Home Depot. One coat and it looked beautiful. There were a few thin spots we had to go over with the paintbrush once it dried, but that was probably because we painted it on thin. 

I would recommend Behr to anyone.

I would NOT recommend Valspar, or anything you get at Wal*Mart.


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## hammerheart14 (Sep 2, 2010)

breakitnmakeit said:


> I just painted my whole house with Behr from Home Depot. One coat and it looked beautiful. There were a few thin spots we had to go over with the paintbrush once it dried, but that was probably because we painted it on thin.
> 
> I would recommend Behr to anyone.
> 
> I would NOT recommend Valspar, or anything you get at Wal*Mart.


Behr is mediocre paint. As a paint salesman for 14 years and a on and off again painter, there is much better paint out there to use for the same price. Their resins, binders, and solids are low quality, the open time is too short, brushibility sucks, coverage is bad, and, last but not least, you are supporting the guys who drive out the honest paint stores striving to make a living.


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

just a thought. with SW pro mar 200 going for roughly the same price as behr, why would someone even consider it? the cost argument is gone, so, why? 

from the little behr ive used its been inconsistent between gallons. one gallon went on really well, no lines, great cover, the next was very streaky almost like the solids volume was way lower. 

SW is no brainer paint, you roll, spray and brush it on, it dries, you go about the rest of your day. no babysitting it to turn out decent.


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