# High pressure line (not hot)



## JJboy

I'm guessing since I don't know the pressures. Restricted condenser coil or Liquid line dryer, if it is installed inside of the condenser.


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## gixxer1000

I will check pressure's in the morning...thks..


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## JJboy

Get the temp of the liquid line ( small copper ) after the service valve and before get in the Evap.


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## gixxer1000

Will do...whats the best way to test for temps ? I have an infra red tester or a meter with temp probe (non clamp on type)


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## JJboy

Infra red should be ok


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## hvac122

JJboy said:


> Infra red should be ok


Infra red doesn't always work on copper. Use a strap on thermometer.


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## beenthere

Temp probe. IR is unreliable on copper lines.

May not be anything wrong with your system.


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## COLDIRON

If the unit is keeping the proper temps and everything seems in order I wouldn't mess with it.
I would get through the season then at next years startup and maintenance I would have everything checked out.

Maybe all your neighbors units are running hot and yours is normal.


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## biggles

your condenser is the cleanest of the group the Liquid Line should be slightly warm body temp but it it's hot the condenser isn't being removed and it goes into the air handler on the liquid line....the line right off the compressor to the top of the condenser now that one on a full charge you can't touch...


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## clocert

How old is your compressor ? The small line should be around 100-110 if outside ambient temp is 98. Does the air blow out of the condenser hot like your neighbor's ?


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## NitrNate

the liquid line is high pressure not high heat. the whole point of the condenser is to take the very hot high pressure gas that comes out of the compressor and cool it down to a warm not-as-high pressure liquid as it exits the condenser. my liquid lines are typically only slightly warmer than ambient. you should have hot air blowing out the top as the fan extracts the heat from the line.

if the line is too hot something is wrong.


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## biggles

the heat difference from the compressor line and the liquid line is what blows in your face....if it is little above ambient on a 90F day your condenser is clean:thumbup:


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## gixxer1000

Finally got around to test out the pressure's and temperatures.

It was 87'f outside today.

73'f inside the house.

The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 76'f before the valve.

The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 109'f coming out the compressor.

The temperature of the suction line (3/4") was 61'f before the valve.

The temperature of the high line (3/4") was 67'f just before the compressor.

The pressure was 75 psi on the suction line (3/4") with unit running.

The pressure was 240 psi on the high line (1/4').

The air temperature coming out the registers in the house was about 55'f


Does this seem correct ? Or should it be colder coming out the register.

There is about 25-30 ft. of copper line coming from outside to up in the attic.


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## JJboy

Sounds good. Grab a beer and forget about AC:thumbup:


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## Doc Holliday

JJboy said:


> Infra red should be ok


Nope infrared retracts light.


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## JJboy

Doc Holliday said:


> Nope infrared retracts light.


I know clamp is better....but he has only that


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## Doc Holliday

Refracts.


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## gixxer1000

It just seems on a hot day, 95'f+ , the a\c , can't get the temp. down below 73'f.

If I try to make it colder in the house the a/c runs for ever,and never really gets colder. 73'f in the house seems to be the magic number.

Anything lower and the a/c runs forever.

When its at 73'f , a/c runs for about 15 minutes, then thermostat shuts it off. Then it turns back on maybe 10 minutes later, and runs for another 15 minutes. The unit is 21 years old.....Heil (not sure of BTU/ton)

Its been this way for awhile now.

But it seems humid in the house at 73'f.

My friend had a 4ton unit put into his house, and at 73'f in his house its cold in there. Everything you touch in his house is ice cold. Everybody complains it feels colder in his house then 73'f.

I would like my house to feel that way.

I will try to post a picture of the charts inside the unit outside ,

maybe it will show you the ton/or btu's


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## gixxer1000

Pictures of the service charts in unt outside.

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/683be

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/3d740


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## Doc Holliday

Your system is working decently for so old. Is this a new problem at these outdoor. Temps?.


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> It just seems on a hot day, 95'f+ , the a\c , can't get the temp. down below 73'f.
> 
> If I try to make it colder in the house the a/c runs for ever,and never really gets colder. 73'f in the house seems to be the magic number.
> 
> Anything lower and the a/c runs forever.
> 
> When its at 73'f , a/c runs for about 15 minutes, then thermostat shuts it off. Then it turns back on maybe 10 minutes later, and runs for another 15 minutes. The unit is 21 years old.....Heil (not sure of BTU/ton)
> 
> Its been this way for awhile now.
> 
> But it seems humid in the house at 73'f.
> 
> My friend had a 4ton unit put into his house, and at 73'f in his house its cold in there. Everything you touch in his house is ice cold. Everybody complains it feels colder in his house then 73'f.
> 
> I would like my house to feel that way.
> 
> I will try to post a picture of the charts inside the unit outside ,
> 
> maybe it will show you the ton/or btu's


Your house insulation is not so good as your friend


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## Doc Holliday

2.5 ton


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## Doc Holliday

What's the. lf2pe2yßyp Condition. Of the condenser


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## beenthere

The liquid line should not be cooler then the outdoor temp. that indicates a problem.


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## gixxer1000

Doc Holliday said:


> Your system is working decently for so old. Is this a new problem at these outdoor. Temps?.


I try to clean it frequently and maintain it...I'm an electrician by trade but know nothing when it comes to hvac to properly size it up.

The unit has been this way for as long as I could remember.

The installer actually screwed the install up. He put in a return line that was only 10" big. He never came back, to finish up changing it. So I installed a 20" return pipe and a 24"x24" register.

The feed coming out the unit is like a 16" pipe then reduces down to like a 12" or 14" pipe after about 10ft with 9 - 6" flex pipe coming off to the registers

Its a bi-level house built in 1976 with only the top floor cooled in the summer.

9 working registers in the ceiling.

I just wanted to see if I could get this to cool more.

And I was thinking about replacing the unit because of it age.

I was thinking about going with a bigger unit, but I know bigger isn't always better. I need to figure out on how to proper size the house for the proper ton's.


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## gixxer1000

Doc Holliday said:


> What's the. lf2pe2yßyp Condition. Of the condenser


 
SAY WHAT ???


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## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> The liquid line should not be cooler then the outdoor temp. that indicates a problem.


Thats why I was asking the question in the first place..my thoughts were the same...I thought it should be hotter, just like all the other units I looked at ?


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## Doc Holliday

Typing from. My cell. Sorry


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## JJboy

beenthere said:


> The liquid line should not be cooler then the outdoor temp. that indicates a problem.



The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 76'f before the valve. 

The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 109'f coming out the compressor.


LL Temp is 109F ......outside 87F


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## beenthere

But, unfortunately, IR's are not very accurate on copper lines. So while the line may be cooler then the outdoor temp. It may also be slightly warmer.


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## Doc Holliday

Whatever. Beenthere says is what you. Pay. Attention. To


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## beenthere

JJboy said:


> The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 76'f before the valve.
> 
> The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 109'f coming out the compressor.
> 
> 
> LL Temp is 109F ......outside 87F


The line coming out of the compressor, is the hot gas discharge line.

If he is referring to the condenser as the compressor, then that temp is ok. But then what valve is he talking about. If


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## JJboy

beenthere said:


> The line coming out of the compressor, is the hot gas discharge line.
> 
> If he is referring to the condenser as the compressor, then that temp is ok. But then what valve is he talking about. If


I dont think he about the unit to get these temp....i guess service valve


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## beenthere

JJboy said:


> I dont think he about the unit to get these temp....i guess service valve


Liquid line temp at service valve shouldn't be cooler then outdoor temp either.


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 76'f before the valve.
> 
> The temperature of the high line (1/4") was 109'f coming out the compressor.
> 
> 
> LL Temp is 109F ......outside 87F


 
When I said 109'f, thats was the line temp inside the unit thats outside.

Coming off what I called the compressor(not sure if thats the correct term)

But when I measure the temp.of the (1/4") BEFORE the service valve it was 76'f on the outside of the unit.


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## Doc Holliday

Fixed orifice or txv at evap


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## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> But, unfortunately, IR's are not very accurate on copper lines. So while the line may be cooler then the outdoor temp. It may also be slightly warmer.


I used IR gauge and I also used clamp on meter, both were about the same ( 1 degree differance between both ).

I also used a cheap wrap around thermometer to test (about the same readings)

I used a regular digatl outdoor thermometer to measure outside air temp.


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## gixxer1000

Doc Holliday said:


> Fixed orifice or txv at evap


How do I tell ?


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## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> The line coming out of the compressor, is the hot gas discharge line.
> 
> If he is referring to the condenser as the compressor, then that temp is ok. But then what valve is he talking about. If


 
Let me ask you what the terms are for this.

What is the unit outside with the fan blowing called ?

What is the unit (BLACK ITEM) Looks like a 1 gallon paint can, called inside that unit that has the copper lines running to it. cold into it, then hot coming out of it.


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## JJboy

What is the unit (BLACK ITEM) Looks like a 1 gallon paint can, called inside that unit that has the copper lines running to it. cold into it, then hot coming out of it. Compressor 

What is the unit outside with the fan blowing called ? Condenser


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## gixxer1000

Ok let me rephrase what I measured. 

Seems to be 2 differant answers here.

It was 85-87'f outside today.

The 1/4" line was 76'f just before the spot where you hook up the test gauges. And it was 109'f coming out the compressor into the coils of the condensor unit.

The 3/4" line was 61'f just before the spot where you hook up the test gauges. And it was 67'f just before going into the compressor inside the condensor unit.

Pressure's were 75 psi on the 3/4" line and 240 psi on the 1/4" line

One tech says it should be hotter on the 1/4"line just before the test gauge spot.

The other tech is saying the temperature is fine just before the test gauge spot on the 1/4" line.

Whats correct ?


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## beenthere

Post a pic of the unit with the access panel off. is there a liquid line filter drier in it. 

The liquid line is too cool.


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## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> Post a pic of the unit with the access panel off. is there a liquid line filter drier in it.
> 
> The liquid line is too cool.


 
I don't think there is a filter drier in there. I'll try to get a picture right now outside (its 9.50 dark outside right now) give me afew minutes to scare creatures away  and find a light.


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## gixxer1000

Some pictures..more to follow...

looks like no dryer installed (if it looks like an inline fuel filter)

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/ed506

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/c6fad

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/18d69

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/61913

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/3da60


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## gixxer1000

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/0859d

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b5133

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/8962a

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b7ba9

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/89823


http://www.freeimagehosting.net/9bbeb

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/5dcc6

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/1aae9


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## JJboy

Close ups images are not helping. We need overall images with show the 2 services valves


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> Close ups images are not helping. We need overall images with show the 2 services valves


When you say service valves....Thats the area where the test gauges go ?

There is no filter on the outside of the condensor...only the 2 lines going into the condensor with 2 test ports on the outside.

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/8a94a

There is only maybe 18" in the back of the unit, I can't get in there to get a wider picture..only close up's


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> When you say service valves....Thats the area where the test gauges go ?
> 
> There is no filter on the outside of the condensor...only the 2 lines going into the condensor with 2 test ports on the outside.
> 
> http://www.freeimagehosting.net/8a94a
> 
> There is only maybe 18" in the back of the unit, I can't get in there to get a wider picture..only close up's



OK, I got the image that I need...... hold on


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## gixxer1000

Just got some more maybe wider shots..uploading them now ...few minutes they will be ready


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## JJboy

Here are where we need the temperatures











It was 85-87'f outside today.

Suction line temp:

Liquid line temp:

Suction line pressure 75 psi 

Liquid line pressure 240 psi


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## gixxer1000

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b2bf6

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/d690d

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/4fae1

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/8efce


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## gixxer1000

Here is your picture with temps I had.

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/4edbd


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> Here is your picture with temps I had.
> 
> http://www.freeimagehosting.net/4edbd


Something is wrong. Liquid line temp should be higher the outside temp. Are you sure about that? can you measure the temps right now?


Maybe restriction condenser coil


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> Something is wrong. Liquid line temp should be higher the outside temp. Are you sure about that? can you measure the temps right now?


 
The liquid line temperature is 76'f 

The outside temperature of the air is 85'f

Taken this afternoon

So the liquid line temp of my unit is wrong...IT SHOULD BE HIGHER..CORRECT.????

JUST LIKE MY NEIGHBORS UNITS.


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## gixxer1000

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/93f56

Temperatures taken this afternoon , inside the condensor, taken on line going into and out of the compressor.


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> The liquid line temperature is 76'f
> 
> The outside temperature of the air is 85'f
> 
> Taken this afternoon
> 
> So the liquid line temp of my unit is wrong...IT SHOULD BE HIGHER..CORRECT.????
> 
> JUST LIKE MY NEIGHBORS UNITS.



Yes, but the pressure seems ok. Maybe restriction condenser coil. I'd like to see DOC, Yuri, Beenthere opnion


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## gixxer1000

Is there anyway to possibly unclog the condensor coil , if everyone thinks its clogged ?

Or is it time to replace ?


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> Is there anyway to possibly unclog the condensor coil , if everyone thinks its clogged ?
> 
> Or is it time to replace ?



Replace 

Liquid Line Pressure 240 PSI should be at least 114F


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## gixxer1000

Would you like me to retest temperature right now. 

Its maybe 75-78' outside right now..and its 73'f inside the house.

Currently raining outside


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> Would you like me to retest temperature right now.
> 
> Its maybe 75-78' outside right now..and its 73'f inside the house.
> 
> Currently raining outside



Yes, all 3 temps


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## gixxer1000

Its been like this for years..my parents owned the house..and they never complained about it. I'm 22 years old and owned the house the last 4yrs, and always noticed the line cool to the touch. The unit had a slow leak, and every tech I called out here, would only add maybe 1lb or less of freon every 2 years. Nobody wanted to find the leak or add stop leak or a die test. They just added freon and said everything was ok and it never really seemed any better..I just lived with it...But after looking at other a/c's and temps on their units...it got me wondering about mine.

I bought a freon leak detector and found the leak coming from the test port for the gauges. I then bought a tool that allows you to change the valve inside the test port, while under pressure. It worked perfectly.

I added freon so it was up to pressure about 2 years ago, and never had another leak so far.


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> Yes, all 3 temps


 
Will do, be back in a few minutes


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## hvac122

How do you add freon up to pressure?


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## gixxer1000

hvac122 said:


> How do you add freon up to pressure?


 
I add r22 thru a gauge manifold into the 3/4" line test port / with the a/c running...bringing the pressure up to 70-75 psi at around 90-95'f air temp.

Only adding the freon gas, no liquid into the line... The tank is standing up with valve on top.


One of the tech's that came here years ago..I seen him turn the tank upside down onetime., but I don't know if he was adding into the 3/4 line or 1/4 line.

If he dumped liquid into the 3/4" line, wouldn't that destroy the compressor ?


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> Yes, all 3 temps


 
Air temperature outside right now is 71'-72'f.

The temperature on the 3/4"line is 62'-63'f

The temperature on the 1/4"line is 68'-70'f

All temperatures were taken according to your picture


74% humidity outside air.

Air coming from the fan of the condensor is around 90'f



1/4" line coming out of compressor inside the condensor is 109-111'f


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## JJboy

The temperature on the 3/4"line is 62'-63'f

The temperature on the 1/4"line is 68'-70'f

Check the temps on Evap coil. I'd like to see if the temps are dropping


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## gixxer1000

I want to really thank you guys, for taking the time and patience for helping me out. 

Its amazing the things you learn from the internet and the people along the way , that go out of their way to help you out.

Its really appreciated !!:thumbsup:

Thankyou very much for your time and helpful knowledge.

I owe you guys a few rounds...:thumbup:


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> The temperature on the 3/4"line is 62'-63'f
> 
> The temperature on the 1/4"line is 68'-70'f
> 
> Check the temps on Evap coil. I'd like to see if the temps are dropping


 
Evap. coil..???..Thats the coil up in the attic unit ?

Inside the actual blower with filter


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> Evap. coil..???..Thats the coil up in the attic unit ?
> 
> Inside the actual blower with filter



Yes, just before getting into evap coil


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## gixxer1000

So do I measure the temp on the 3/4" line and and 1/4" line just before it enters the blower unit...without taking it apart ?


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> So do I measure the temp on the 3/4" line and and 1/4" line just before it enters the blower unit...without taking it apart ?


Correct, I wanna make sure there aren't any restriction in the lines


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## gixxer1000

It is 67'-68'f on the 3/4" line before entering the unit.

It is 71'-72'f on the 1/4" line before entering the unit.

I have a picture of the manufactures tag on the unit up there.

Could the unit upstair be the wrong size ?

I will upload picture in afew minutes.


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## JJboy

It is 67'-68'f on the 3/4" line before entering the EVAP Coil.

The temperature on the 3/4"line is 62'-63'f on service valve. 


Something wrong here. The suction line temp on the EVAP coil should be lower than on the service valve. I'm talk about 1-2f.......5F is a lot


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## gixxer1000

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/98590

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/222cd

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/7fce9


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> It is 67'-68'f on the 3/4" line before entering the EVAP Coil.
> 
> The temperature on the 3/4"line is 62'-63'f on service valve.
> 
> 
> Something wrong here. The suction line temp on the EVAP coil should be lower than on the service valve. I'm talk about 1-2f.......5F is a lot


 
There is about 30' of tubing from the condensor outside to the unit in the attic if that matters...and its like 85' in the attic right now.


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## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> It is 67'-68'f on the 3/4" line before entering the EVAP Coil.
> 
> The temperature on the 3/4"line is 62'-63'f on service valve.
> 
> 
> Something wrong here. The suction line temp on the EVAP coil should be lower than on the service valve. I'm talk about 1-2f.......5F is a lot


 
Let me retest right now..its been running awhile now...maybe the rain outside is screwing up the outside temp.


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## gixxer1000

Outside air temp 74'f

3/4" line in attic is 57'f

1/4"line in attic is 71'f



3/4"line outside of condensor is 57'f

1/4"line outsdie of condensor is 67'f


72'f INSIDE the house


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> Outside air temp 74'f
> 
> 3/4" line in attic is 57'f
> 
> 1/4"line in attic is 71'f
> 
> 
> 
> 3/4"line outside of condensor is 57'f
> 
> 1/4"line outsdie of condensor is 67'f
> 
> 
> 72'f INSIDE the house


OK lineset are ok.


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## gixxer1000

So you still think its a clogged condensor coil ?

Can I take the coil apart and try to blow it out with air or nitrogen ?

Maybe a piece of loose solder in there ?


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## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> So you still think its a clogged condensor coil ?
> 
> Can I take the coil apart and try to blow it out with air or nitrogen ?
> 
> Maybe a piece of loose solder in there ?



I think is better you get a second opnion. Wait a bit.


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## gixxer1000

Sure, I understand...Thankyou

If I do need an new unit....can I just replace the condensor unit outside with a same size 2.5ton unit ?

I know someone that can get new a/c units real cheap. Don't ask ...

If I get a new condensor, evac. all the freon from the old unit. Silver solder in the new unit, pull a vaccum for about 1hr, as long as no leaks occur, then add new r22 gas only . Would this install work, or do i need to add oil and liquid freon into the new unit ?


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## beenthere

Pull the compressor compartment access panel again. Measure the liquid line temp right where it comeds out of the coil. And then measure it just be fore the service vale, and then just after the service vale. Restriction may be in the valve itself.

The 109° compressor discharge temp is also a symptom of an over charge.


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## JJboy

beenthere said:


> Pull the compressor compartment access panel again. Measure the liquid line temp right where it comeds out of the coil. And then measure it just be fore the service vale, and then just after the service vale. Restriction may be in the valve itself.
> 
> The 109° compressor discharge temp is also a symptom of an over charge.


I thought that overcharge system, we have high superheat, high subcooling, high liquid line pressure and high suction line pressure.


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## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> Pull the compressor compartment access panel again. Measure the liquid line temp right where it comeds out of the coil. And then measure it just be fore the service vale, and then just after the service vale. Restriction may be in the valve itself.
> 
> The 109° compressor discharge temp is also a symptom of an over charge.


 
I will check them again in a few minutes


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## gixxer1000

Today's temparature's

74.5'f outside temp. 70'f inside temp. 48'f coming out last register


3/4" line in Attic is 53'f

1/4" line in Attic is 70'f



3/4" line before condensor service port 50.6'f

1/4" line before condensor service port 71.5'f

1/4" line just after the service port inside the condensor is 71.5f' 


1/4" line coming off compressor is 111'f, just before entering the coil.

1/4" line coming out just AFTER the coil but before the service port is 72'f


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## gixxer1000

Here are some pictures of the coil. I took temperature readings on each loop.

Going it the coil is was 110'f

then dropped thru each loop

coming out at the end of the coil at 78'f

Outside temperature when taken readings was at 80' - 81'f


http://www.freeimagehosting.net/3508c

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/9cda5

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/c51bb


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## beenthere

JJboy said:


> I thought that overcharge system, we have high superheat, high subcooling, high liquid line pressure and high suction line pressure.



Over charge would give a Low super heat.

Depends on how over charged, the head can be very high. 
Vapor pressure often won't be high. Since the evap coil becomes full of liquid, it doesn't absorb much heat.


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## beenthere

gixxer1000 said:


> Here are some pictures of the coil. I took temperature readings on each loop.
> 
> Going it the coil is was 110'f
> 
> then dropped thru each loop
> 
> coming out at the end of the coil at 78'f
> 
> Outside temperature when taken readings was at 80' - 81'f
> 
> 
> http://www.freeimagehosting.net/3508c
> 
> http://www.freeimagehosting.net/9cda5
> 
> http://www.freeimagehosting.net/c51bb



I believe you got an over charge. The compressor discharge temp is too low.

Needs to be recovered, and weighed back in.


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## gixxer1000

Not to many reliable people around here..thats why I think I have this problem..I would rather try doing it myself , but it look's like I will have to find someone to pump it down and recover. 

I think there is more liquid then gas in the condensor.

The second guy that charged the sysem...years ago..I remember the tank upside down and I'm pretty sure he was adding liquid into the suction line/ and once in awhile turning the tank back upright to put gas in.

He probably added to much liquid like you said.


I have a vacuum pump, and a full tank of r22, but no way to recover the liquid/gas that might be in the unit.

How many lbs. of freon should be going into the unit ? 

Liquid Freon should be going into liquid line when charging by weight.

Freon Gas should go into the suction line when charging by PSI ?

Is that correct ?


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## gixxer1000

What would be the benifit of pumping down and recharging.

The A/c seems to work ok and cool to 73'f

What benifit do I gain from adding the correct amount of freon gas.

Does the air get cooler in the house or does it remove more humidity ?


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## Big N8

Adding the correct amount of freon to the system will allow it to work at the highest efficiency. It will cool faster.


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## Missouri Bound

COLDIRON said:


> If the unit is keeping the proper temps and everything seems in order I wouldn't mess with it.
> I would get through the season then at next years startup and maintenance I would have everything checked out.
> 
> Maybe all your neighbors units are running hot and yours is normal.


* If it ain't broke, don't fix it........*

_Is this a heat pump? My heat pump has been working tirelessly for the past few weeks.....100+ now for about two weeks. The high pressure NEVER gets hot to the touch._


----------



## beenthere

gixxer1000 said:


> What would be the benifit of pumping down and recharging.
> 
> The A/c seems to work ok and cool to 73'f
> 
> What benifit do I gain from adding the correct amount of freon gas.
> 
> Does the air get cooler in the house or does it remove more humidity ?


It recover it, no need to pump down first, and then recharge.

The correct charge will allow the evap coil to get colder, and remove more moisture from the air. Which in turn, may allow you to set the thermostat up a degree or 2, and feel just as comfortable as you do n ow at 73 degrees.

How much goes back in, depends. You need to look at the data tag on it for how much the factory charge is/was. Then measure the length on the line set. To determine if more has to be added for its length.

When charging by weight. Generally it is charged b y liquid through the liquid line while the unit isn't running.

Liquid can be charged through the vapor line while its running, if its done slowly.

Rheem units aren't known for having cool liquid lines. Rheem's are designed to use a minimal amount of refrigerant.


----------



## gixxer1000

Well now another problem...I just had a guy come out here this morning to pump down the unit. I told him the problem I had, and explained what test's I did, and the conclusion's we came up with.
(thanks to you guys):thumbsup:

Well after he gets setup, I asked him what he wanted for breakfast/coffee.

I leave, and come back afew minutes later. He is sitting in his truck smoking. I go and look at the condensor, and he is venting the lines into the air. He isn't recovering the freon into a tank. (I thought this was wrong) After I said something to him about it, he said it was ok because he could recharge it faster that way, and he spends less time at my house. He then tells me he will be back, in a few minutes, he has to run over to another job to pickup something. He takes his tools and disapears, he hasn't come back and he isn't picking up his phone.

Now I have a condensor out of freon with lines wide open...he took the needle valves out...and they are no place to be found.

Now I'm doubting this guy is coming back, but I'm waiting to see.:whistling2:


----------



## JJboy

WOW.....He knows he can be fined for doing this. 

Cover the valves with plastic. Don't let humidity get inside the line set.


----------



## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> WOW.....He knows he can be fined for doing this.
> 
> Cover the valves with plastic. Don't let humidity get inside the line set.


Nothing is coming out the condensor anymore....I put the metal caps back on but only finger tight.

I figured he was going to recover the freon and reuse it....the mistake I made was telling him I had a full freon tank here if he needed it.


----------



## gixxer1000

I figured let me have someone recover the unit first, then refill by proper weight.

Maybe the coil is clogged like you said, but I figured it was cheaper first to try and recover the unit, and refill, and see if that works. 

If not, no big deal.

Then I would have to buy a new unit anyway......I was planning on buying a more efficient unit anyway, but not until next year or the following year..


----------



## fabrk8r

Don't let that tech who dumped the R-22 anywhere close to your unit. He's a hack.

Go to the nearest AC parts supply house and get a couple new schrader cores. While you're at the counter ask if they can recommend a good tech for you who owns a digital refrigerant scale.

Go home, install the new schrader cores and hook up your vacuum pump and micron gauge, if you have one...other wise just pump it down for a couple hours.

Weigh in your charge. Check pressures and temps.


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> Don't let that tech who dumped the R-22 anywhere close to your unit. He's a hack.
> 
> Go to the nearest AC parts supply house and get a couple new schrader cores. While you're at the counter ask if they can recommend a good tech for you who owns a digital refrigerant scale.
> 
> Go home, install the new schrader cores and hook up your vacuum pump and micron gauge, if you have one...other wise just pump it down for a couple hours.
> 
> Weigh in your charge. Check pressures and temps.


I might have to do that....nobody around here (Northern NJ) is to reliable.

Seems they want the work, but when its time to work..they either don't show up to work, or they are butcher's, and want top dollar.

I'm thinking about telling him to leave if he does show back up.

I thought he had to recover everything into a tank. Just by removing the schrader cores, doesn't that just remove the freon gas, doesn't liquid freon still stay inside the condersor coil and evaporator coil ?

I thought it had to be sucked out, so I could accurately replace it by weight.. If liquid stays inside the unit, and it gets filled back up by weight, wouldn't I be back where I started, by being over charged ?

Or just by opening the schrader valves up, EVERYTHING comes out ? 

Gas AND Liquid Freon ?


----------



## fabrk8r

Yup, it's empty unless he pulled the refrigerant back into the condensing unit and isolated the unit using the service valves.

Refrigerant is only in a liquid state when it's under pressure or at an extremely low temperature. When it's at atmospheric pressure it's a gas...and it's gone. 

You now have non-condensibles (water) in your line-set and that can be removed by applying a vacuum until at least 500 microns is reached and it holds at under about 750 microns when the vacuum pump is isolated and turned off.


----------



## gixxer1000

It doesn't look like he did anything but remove the schrader core's.

My condesor doesn't have any shutoff valves that I could see...and he never went into the attic to look at the evaporator. 

Here's a picture of the back of the unit .. do you see any valves to shutoff the condensor ?

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/4fc35

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/fcb58


----------



## fabrk8r

No service valves in those pics. It appears that he released the entire charge to the atmosphere. Not good.


----------



## hvac122

Call EPA and tell them what he did. There is a 25 grand fine for venting like that. 
And I wonder why I get underbid by these people.


----------



## JJboy

hvac122 said:


> Call EPA and tell them what he did. There is a 25 grand fine for venting like that.
> And I wonder why I get underbid by these people.



These rats make us look bad. :furious:


----------



## gixxer1000

Thats what I figured..

I'm thinking about just trying to charge it back up myself.

Couple of questions for you, if you don't mind ?

By the guy dumping everything into the air, do I have to add any kind of oil now back into the condesor (compressor oil) or do I just add just liquid freon ?

I don't own a micron gauge, so if I vaccum it out, how many hours of run time do you think is safe ?

Will the vaccum pull any compressor oil out, or is that a sealed unit ?


----------



## fabrk8r

At least two hours vacuum should be enough, but you will need to install a liquid line filter drier first (remove the old one if there is one by cutting it out, don't use torch to remove or it will release a lot of moisture into line-set).

The vacuum pump won't vaporize the oil unless you pull it down to under 75 microns (probably not gonna happen). You won't need to add any oil.

Get those schrader cores back in there ASAP before you do anything.


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> At least two hours vacuum should be enough, but you will need to install a liquid line filter drier first (remove the old one if there is one by cutting it out, don't use torch to remove or it will release a lot of moisture into line-set).
> 
> The vacuum pump won't vaporize the oil unless you pull it down to under 75 microns (probably not gonna happen). You won't need to add any oil.
> 
> Get those schrader cores back in there ASAP before you do anything.


 
Are they exactly the same kind of schrader valves found in tire valves or bicycles...or are they made specifically for freon ?


----------



## fabrk8r

gixxer1000 said:


> Are they exactly the same kind of schrader valves found in tire valves or bicycles...or are they made specifically for freon ?


 Similar, but not the same...a schrader designed for refrigeration systems can withstand 500psi.

Go to your local HVAC supply house and ask the counter person for some guidance. Maybe you'll run into the hack that stole your R-22 while you're there!


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> Similar, but not the same...a schrader designed for refrigeration systems can withstand 500psi.
> 
> Go to your local HVAC supply house and ask the counter person for some guidance. Maybe you'll run into the hack that stole your R-22 while you're there!


 
Will do....looks like a supply house is about 55 miles from my house.

Do I have to install the line dryer ??

There never was one on there for years, and I would rather not cut into the tubing if I wound up doing the job myself.

Can I pull a vaccum without it ?


----------



## fabrk8r

You need the drier now that the system has been opened. You can thank me later.

Not much use pulling a vacuum until you get the system sealed. 

I find it hard to believe you can't find a better tech than the one you had. You must live in a very rural place.


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> You need the drier now that the system has been opened. You can thank me later.
> 
> Not much use pulling a vacuum until you get the system sealed.
> 
> I find it hard to believe you can't find a better tech than the one you had. You must live in a very rural place.


Yep...Rural is the word..if the guy isn't local, nobody wants to come out...I'm 35 minutes from the nearest food store.

If I install the dryer myself, what type of solder do I use. Silver solder or should a braze with brazing rod ?


----------



## fabrk8r

I'd use 15% silver solder and an oxy-acetylene torch.

Make sure you use wet rags on any component that may be damaged by heat...I protect the dryer as well. Also, make sure the arrow is going the proper direction on the filter drier (don't ask). 

I don't know what supply house you are going to use, but you might want to call first to make sure they will sell parts to a non-licensed person. Some don't, some do.


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> I'd use 15% silver solder and an oxy-acetylene torch.
> 
> Make sure you use wet rags on any component that may be damaged by heat...I protect the dryer as well. Also, make sure the arrow is going the proper direction on the filter drier (don't ask).
> 
> I don't know what supply house you are going to use, but you might want to call first to make sure they will sell parts to a non-licensed person. Some don't, some do.


Thats what I figured with the supply house..Grainger used to be that way.

I found the stuff thats needed on ebay.. I just might order the stuff and have it overnighted. I don't think I'll make the supply house by the time they close.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valv...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Valv...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


http://cgi.ebay.com/Liquid-Line-Fil...723?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b39832f3

http://cgi.ebay.com/EMERSON-LIquid-...490?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bc9feeba

http://cgi.ebay.com/SPORLAN-Catch-A...al_Refrigerators_Freezers&hash=item5d2a396ed8

http://cgi.ebay.com/SERCON-S12613-1...546?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb588134a


----------



## fabrk8r

Okay, you probably don't want any of those filter-driers on your list...they are all "flare" fitting. You want "S" solder type unless you are really good at forming flares on copper, and then you still need flare nuts. Get the "S" type.

I know that I need to quit qorking and start selling schrader cores and filter-driers on ebay! Holy cow! Them's some crazy high prices!

This is really too bad, because by the time you buy all this you are going to have a lot of dough wrapped up in this system that should have been fixed this morning, and fixed correctly.


----------



## gixxer1000

I know..tell me about it....Just waiting to see if this guy shows up still.. No returned call's yet....as far as I'm concered he could take his bill and put it where the sun doesn't shine.


----------



## gixxer1000

I have no problems with making the flares in the tubing...I have all the correct tools for them, I also I have the flare nuts .

I have made plenty of flares on oil lines, and brake lines...no problem's.

My soldering is good..I have a MAPP gas setup..but no solder or brazing rods here so if I do it myself...flaring the copper would be easier for and quicker for me.

Are the core valves I posted any good ?

Any better then the other ?

What sizes should I be looking at ?


----------



## NitrNate

i'm not sure you can flare anything in the line like that. it's gas under high pressure and i would think anything flared would leak no matter how you tried to seal it. soldering with certain solders might hold up for r22 pressures but i wouldn't chance it. you need silver brazing rods. i don't have an oxy-acetylene setup either, just a bottle of MAPP gas with a very high end torch head (this is key to giving me that little bit of extra heat where i need it). it is just enough to braze the suction line (3/4") and obviously the liquid line is easy. it takes me a little longer but i'm ok with that and i don't have to worry about getting the copper too hot. of course i always throw a few wet rags on anything nearby that could get damaged.


----------



## gixxer1000

I figured since i saw they had flared dryers, it was easier to install.

They must work fine if manufactures are making them.


----------



## NitrNate

flared driers are for a recovery setup typically. you install one and attache it to your hoses when you evacuate the system using a recovery system. the inline filter protects the recovery units compressor, but it is not attached permanently and is removable.

the concept of the filter is the same, one is brazed permanently into the system and one is attached to hoses during recovery.


----------



## gixxer1000

Ok...I understand what your saying...


Do the ones that get soldered in , need replacing, sort of like a fuel filter ?

Changed every once in a while ?

Also the direction of the arrow, what way should it point ?
Towards the condensor or the other way ?


----------



## NitrNate

liquid line is the small line where liquid refrigerant will be traveling OUT of the condenser. suction line is the large line where vapor refrigerant will be traveling INTO the condenser. so you want to make sure the filter arrow is pointing away from the condenser.

typically, the filter drier is replaced anytime there is maintenance on a system where the lines are evacuated. i don't know if there is an exact timeframe that they would need to be replaced in.


----------



## gixxer1000

So solder in a filter dryer, and pull a vacuum for 2hrs, then recharge by weight according to factory specs.:thumbsup:

Can you tell by these charts how much liquid freon by weight goes into the unit , by going into the liquid line ?

Plus I have 27ft of tubing to the unit in the attic.


http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b7192

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/1496a

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b8eef


----------



## hvac122

There is nothing wrong with using flare driers as long as the flares are good. Better than soldering as you probably don't have nitrogen to run through. Put the dryer in just before the indoor coil.


----------



## gixxer1000

Why do I have to run nitrogen thru if soldering the filter ?

Why put the filter up in the attic, all my neighbors are outside by the condensor ?


----------



## JJboy

When you finish this post you will be a hvac tech:thumbsup:


----------



## fabrk8r

hvac122 said:


> There is nothing wrong with using flare driers as long as the flares are good. Better than soldering as you probably don't have nitrogen to run through. Put the dryer in just before the indoor coil.


Yep, what he said. 

Most homeowners don't have the tools or knowledge to make good flares on refrigerant line, but if you have the tools and the confidence then I say "Git'r done!" This especially true since you won't be doing a nitrogen purge.

As NitroNate said, make sure the arrow is pointing towards the evaporator coil (indoor coil).

I think that if you do run into that hack again _*you*_ should be the one teaching him how to work on equipment.

Most of the time the filter-drier is put inside on new installs just to avoid corrosion of the filter-drier. It isn't really that important on a system as old as yours. Put it wherever it's easiest.


----------



## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> When you finish this post you will be a hvac tech:thumbsup:


Not even close....but a more informed homeowner..with alot more knowledge learned from the help of you guys...THANKYOU..:thumbup:


----------



## fabrk8r

Another reason to put the filter drier close to the indoor coil is so that it will catch any crap in the liquid line before it gets to the metering device.

I really hope this works out for you!


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> Yep, what he said.
> 
> Most homeowners don't have the tools or knowledge to make good flares on refrigerant line, but if you have the tools and the confidence then I say "Git'r done!" This especially true since you won't be doing a nitrogen purge.
> 
> As NitroNate said, make sure the arrow is pointing towards the evaporator coil (indoor coil).
> 
> I think that if you do run into that hack again _*you*_ should be the one teaching him how to work on equipment.
> 
> Most of the time the filter-drier is put inside on new installs just to avoid corrosion of the filter-drier. It isn't really that important on a system as old as yours. Put it wherever it's easiest.


 
And I have ALOT of tools...electrical,automotive, carpentry...you name it ...I probably have it....and probably 2 of everything.

I like to learn, and do things myself, but usually leave the hvac to the pro's.


----------



## gixxer1000

Only question now is...

Can you tell by these charts how much liquid freon by weight goes into the unit , by going into the liquid line ?

Plus I have 27ft of tubing to the unit in the attic.


http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b7192

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/1496a

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/b8eef


----------



## gixxer1000

I'll be back in a few minutes...you will never guess who just pulled into my driveway.. :laughing:


----------



## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> I'll be back in a few minutes...you will never guess who just pulled into my driveway.. :laughing:


LOL.....put him in from the computer


----------



## fabrk8r

gixxer1000 said:


> I'll be back in a few minutes...you will never guess who just pulled into my driveway.. :laughing:


An EPA official?

We can only hope. :whistling2:


----------



## gixxer1000

Wow..The guy shows up now to finish the job..tells me he ran into problems at the other job...he starts unloading his truck...and I ask why he never returned my calls...he said he was busy and I knew he was coming back. I asked why he vented everything into the air and not recover the freon. I said you wasted all that freon and left my lines open. He ask's me who else was here, I said nobody...then why are you asking me how to do my job he says.....I said I called you because I thought you were a pro and licenced at hvac, he said he was:laughing:

I then asked for his license number, and he looks at me strange, then goes into his truck and proceeds to write me a bill for his time....I'm like what da... are you doing ? He says I'm done here...:thumbup:

I tell him I want to see your license number before getting paid, again he asks why, and I say I'm calling the EPA because you vented into the air and left me hanging.

The guy jumps into the truck and peels out my driveway, leaving behind a bucket of tools by my condensor and drive's up the road waving his middle finger at me.

What an as....:no: :laughing:

Now I got some more tools...hvac tools at that(nice freon leak detector):thumbup: and a nice fluke meter, along with some wrench's and screwdrivers.

He isn't getting them back...


----------



## beenthere

A flare LLFD is ok, as long as you use the proper flare nuts.

The data tag has the operating pressures for your indoor wetbulb temps, go by that.


----------



## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> A flare LLFD is ok, as long as you use the proper flare nuts.
> 
> The data tag has the operating pressures for your indoor wetbulb temps, go by that.


 
What kind of flare nuts do I need...they have 2 types..

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brass-Fitting-F...004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d23441944

http://cgi.ebay.com/JB-Industries-B...163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1a084633


----------



## JJboy

gixxer1000 said:


> What kind of flare nuts do I need...they have 2 types..
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Brass-Fitting-F...004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d23441944
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/JB-Industries-B...163?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1a084633


SAE Flare fitting
*
*


----------



## gixxer1000

JJboy said:


> SAE Flare fitting


 
Long neck or short.... ?


I like the long because they offer more support for the pipe,,does it matter ?


----------



## COLDIRON

hvac122 said:


> There is nothing wrong with using flare driers as long as the flares are good. Better than soldering as you probably don't have nitrogen to run through. Put the dryer in just before the indoor coil.


I agree:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## COLDIRON

WOW what a cool story. Don't forget to ream the copper before you make them flares.


----------



## gixxer1000

When looking at the chart.....how could I tell what coil I have ?

The chart looks like it showing pressure for 3 differant types of coils ?

Also to the far right of the chart, it shows OZ.

Is that the weight of the freon that should be going into the liquid side ?


----------



## gixxer1000

COLDIRON said:


> WOW what a cool story. Don't forget to ream the copper before you make them flares.


 
Not so cool when your on the receiving end...at least I got some tools out of the deal..:thumbup:. Imagine what he would do or charge to a homeowner who doesn't know any better..


----------



## beenthere

Use the short thick flare nuts.

true refrigeration flare nuts have an open section in them to help pevent loosening from expansion and contraction.


----------



## beenthere

Yes, those are the ounces of R22 for the coil match ups. there should be a tag on the coil case saying what coil you have.


----------



## gixxer1000

beenthere said:


> Yes, those are the ounces of R22 for the coil match ups. there should be a tag on the coil case saying what coil you have.


 
I didn't see any stickers or tags inside the unit..thereis another tag outside but its barely visible...Let me go check again...


----------



## gixxer1000

I found the sticker...but nothing is visible. It faded away.

I did find this stick inside

30-b0-20
503ra57v136
heil quaker
hq92337el
87/05

I then went over to a neighbors house, he has the exact same unit, same model # on the condensor. Around the same time,

His tag reads my model number NCAFB30AB02 867.817121

STYLE 33TEB-1000085CR

HIS TAG says OUTDOOR UNIT FACTORY CHARGE R-22 67 OZ.

TEST PRESSURE HIGH 455 LOW 150

APPLICATION EVAPORATOR R-22 TEMP 
RANGE 40'F/50'F


----------



## gixxer1000

Today's my day....I just found the original factory manuals rolled up and stuck near the a/c in the attic.


----------



## Missouri Bound

OK, you've got the tools and with the help of this thread, most of the knowledge required to do the job. Do YOU have a refrigerant license?


----------



## beenthere

Cool, you should be just about set then.


----------



## hvac122

Missouri Bound said:


> OK, you've got the tools and with the help of this thread, most of the knowledge required to do the job. Do YOU have a refrigerant license?


As said, do you have your EPA refrigerant card.


----------



## fabrk8r

You might want to get a quart of vacuum pump oil while you are at the supply house. Vacuum pumps don't pull down to a good micron level if the oil is contaminated.


----------



## gixxer1000

Missouri Bound said:


> OK, you've got the tools and with the help of this thread, most of the knowledge required to do the job. Do YOU have a refrigerant license?


 
No,, but I have a full tank...


----------



## gixxer1000

Here is a picture of the chart in the book. My condensor model # is 867.817121 , and its calling for 67 oz, my evaporator is a differant number then whats in the chart, but the tag is calling for 22 oz. thats on the evaporator, and I have 25 feet of 3/4" copper.

So, its saying I need 122oz of liquid for a full charge, and add 5oz if a 5 cubic inch drier is used.

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/90eb3


----------



## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> You might want to get a quart of vacuum pump oil while you are at the supply house. Vacuum pumps don't pull down to a good micron level if the oil is contaminated.


 
Its a brand new pump/never used..Thanks


----------



## hvac122

Two wrongs does not make a right. We should help you no further as you will be breaking the law .

Good luck


----------



## gixxer1000

hvac122 said:


> Two wrongs does not make a right. We should help you no further as you will be breaking the law .
> 
> Good luck


 
I tried to do the right thing calling the so called licensed professional....

As a homeowner I thought I was allowed to work on my own system

I got one for you,,,when you install a new a/c unit into a homeowners house or commercial business...who wires the units up for you ?

Do you hire a professional licensed electrician to do the work or do you install the necessary electrical wiring and disconnect... ???

Because it against the law for YOU to do the work , if you do indeed wire it up...

It kinda works both ways here..


----------



## Missouri Bound

gix....I don't think he's reference was about trades and their roles....the refrigerant handling is a seperate issue which involves the EPA. And you can work on your own system for the most part, but I reiterate that handling / dispensing refrigerant is a whole different ball game. You aren't supposed to purchase or for that matter possess it without proper licensing. No need for you to get defensive or argumentative....that's just a matter of fact / law.


----------



## hvac122

I have to hire a licenced electrician as it is code here. I follow the law.


----------



## beenthere

hvac122 said:


> Two wrongs does not make a right. We should help you no further as you will be breaking the law .
> 
> Good luck


He was already violating EPA regs when he connected his gauges.


----------



## gixxer1000

Missouri Bound said:


> gix....I don't think he's reference was about trades and their roles....the refrigerant handling is a seperate issue which involves the EPA. And you can work on your own system for the most part, but I reiterate that handling / dispensing refrigerant is a whole different ball game. You aren't supposed to purchase or for that matter possess it without proper licensing. No need for you to get defensive or argumentative....that's just a matter of fact / law.


 
not getting defensive or argumentative...I understand what your saying about the law..thats why I hired a pro to do the recovery as per the law. If I knew he was planning on doing what he did...I wouldn't be asking for help. I had the tank since the a/c was installed back in '87,not sure if there was a law back then...I even have r-12 sitting in my garage...cans that I bought from k-martway back when...for $1.29 each.

These forums technically really shouldn't be available either....most to the stuff in these forums you should need a license to acccess.. HVAC / Plumbing / Electrical all require license's inorder to access to gain information. You could buy freon on ebay..just by stating your purchasing it resale ..No license required, just a letter head stating it.


----------



## hvac122

beenthere said:


> He was already violating EPA regs when he connected his gauges.


I know. I still don't think it would be right to give a step by step charging class on a open forum. We all have worked hard to get our licences and I personally wouldn't feel right taking this further.


----------



## fabrk8r

At least gixxer1000 isn't planning on dumping 8 lbs of R22 and pretending like it's no big deal, like the "HVAC Technician" who so graciously helped this morning did. It burns me to know that someone pretending to be an AC tech would pull something like that and get perturbed when confronted about it.

I've been in the trade for 25 years and worked long and hard to get my HVAC license and all my refrigerant certifications, but I have no problems giving advice and help to a homeowner who is conscientious about the responsibility of handling HCFC type refrigerants.


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## Missouri Bound

I disagree about the forum. For the most part it offers sound advice for the DIY. But in your case you must admit that your post escalated and transformed from a simple question about high pressure line temp to a service call.
And as far as your capability....I have no doubt that you can perform this task with your unit. I've done a lot of hvac work way back when the license wasn't required, and I am sure many still find ways to get the refrigerant w/o a license. Good luck to you.


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## gixxer1000

fabrk8r said:


> At least gixxer1000 isn't planning on dumping 8 lbs of R22 and pretending like it's no big deal, like the "HVAC Technician" who so graciously helped this morning did. It burns me to know that someone pretending to be an AC tech would pull something like that and get perturbed when confronted about it.
> 
> I've been in the trade for 25 years and worked long and hard to get my HVAC license and all my refrigerant certifications, but I have no problems giving advice and help to a homeowner who is conscientious about the responsibility of handling HCFC type refrigerants.


 
Again...THANKYOU FOR EVERYBODYS HELP...

I could see no more help coming..and I could understand that.

I'll let you know how I make out ..


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## gixxer1000

Would any of you like to maybe report my tech.?...

Being that he knowingly broke the law, that you all follow, and I'm sure he does it alot more then me....But yet afew are on my case about me having a license..

.WHAT ABOUT THE PROFESSIONAL THATS ADVERTISING HE HAS A LICENSE and represents himself as a HVAC technician..

Nobody yet has asked anything about his contact info., just worried about what I'm doing wrong.

There's alot more in this world to worry about who's violating what, and the amounts getting dumped into the air and ground.


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## 3 legged dog

Are you going to steal his tools because he vented gas?


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## gixxer1000

3 legged dog said:


> Are you going to steal his tools because he vented gas?


I don't have to steal his tools...he left his tools here..when he ran away like a little kid who knew they did wrong when confronted.

He could have them back , if he comes back...Do you see that happening ???

If not, his tools will be up for sale on ebay if anybody is interested in hvac tools....Maybe I could recover some money from them to help pay for a line dryer and the schrader valves he stole from me. Not to mention
the time I took off from work waiting for the licensed tech.


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## 3 legged dog

I must have missed the stolen dryer and schrader taps post.


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## gixxer1000

3 legged dog said:


> I must have missed the stolen dryer and schrader taps post.


He just stole the schrader valves when he decided to leave, and let the condensor vent into the air.

Now I need to buy a dryer to remove the moisture he let in.

He does have some nice Klein screwdriver's, and Fluke volt/therm tester, the freon tester, is just some cheap harbor freight throw away tester.


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## NitrNate

the good ol' EPA and its over-regulation of everything. R22 is an HCFC and its ozone depletion potential is minimal. R12, that was some bad stuff, R22, not so much. R410A, harmless. the likelihood of getting caught by an EPA official? next to zero.


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## COLDIRON

You will never have an A/C unit that works properly without getting his tools back to him.
Tell him or the Company he works for to send someone to pickup his tools with the understanding you need his name and cert number.

Your unit will be ice picked better put a closed circuit camera on it 24 hrs 365.


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