# Power Still to Outlets After Breaker Turned Off



## shriekback (Sep 1, 2010)

Hello -

Sorry. I know this question has been asked previously but the threads I saw are pretty old. 
I'm in the process of changing all outlets and light switched in our house and have zero issues until now. 
I've replaced all he switches and outlets in the upstairs hallway except for one outlet as it seems to be on the same circuit as one of the bedrooms. I turned the breaker off to that room - confirmed power went off with a lamp plugged into one of the outlets that turned off as well as the overhead light. However when I went to test the power, I noticed that there is still power going to the outlets and the light switch. Weirdly the outlet that I just replaced is now showing power to it as well. 
Could I have done something when replacing that one outlet that could've caused this? Could it be a faulty breaker? 
House was built in 1988 

Thanks!!


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

To save steps. Plug a radio into this outlet, and turn breakers off one at a time, until you find which breaker this outlet is on.

Radio turned up LOUD, when it goes off you have found the proper breaker.

If you replaced the others correctly, no way that you muffed it.

But if you changed any wiring you might have messed it up.


ED


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

How are you testing for power.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

If the light went out, power went off. Test both halves of the receptacle.


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## shriekback (Sep 1, 2010)

Appreciate all the quick replies!

I am going to go through all the breakers again. I don't think I would be able to hear a radio so I'll run an extension cord to the basement with a lamp.
I'm using a G&B circuit alert tester (the red pen shaped one with the light on the end).
I never thought of testing both halves. If one half shows power and the other doesn't, does that mean it doesn't have power?


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> I'm using a G&B circuit alert tester


Here is an article on how a non contact voltage tester works.
http://www.fluke.com/fluke/uses/comunidad/fluke-news-plus/articlecategories/electrical/capacitivevoltage

In short it is a safety check device that can be overly sensitive.
When it alerts, you pull out a real volt meter to check whether the wires are actually hot, or whether it was alerting on a non dangerous electrical field.

They are not a definitive test. Get yourself a multimeter or a wiggy.

On checking both halves of a receptacle, it's a check to make sure all power is off. Some receptacles are split wired with different beakers powering the top and bottom. Grab one of those after turning off one breaker and it will bite you.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

shriekback said:


> Appreciate all the quick replies!
> 
> I am going to go through all the breakers again. I don't think I would be able to hear a radio so I'll run an extension cord to the basement with a lamp.
> I'm using a G&B circuit alert tester (the red pen shaped one with the light on the end).
> I never thought of testing both halves. If one half shows power and the other doesn't, does that mean it doesn't have power?


If one half of a receptacle is always hot and the other is not it is.likely that a switch controls half of that outlet. This was commonly done in rooms that did not have an overhead light. You would plug a lamp into the outlet, and the wall switch would be used to turn that lamp on. Code requires that a switched light be available at the entrance to a room. This is accomplished by breaking the brass tab on the side if the outlet and running an always hot to one half of the outlet and a switched hot to the other half.

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

jeffmattero76 said:


> If one half of a receptacle is always hot and the other is not it is.likely that a switch controls half of that outlet. This was commonly done in rooms that did not have an overhead light. You would plug a lamp into the outlet, and the wall switch would be used to turn that lamp on. Code requires that a switched light be available at the entrance to a room. This is accomplished by breaking the brass tab on the side if the outlet and running an always hot to one half of the outlet and a switched hot to the other half.
> 
> Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


*************************************************
So this switched light code could easily cause death to any unsuspecting person or even an electrician.

Looks to me the code needs to be changed but I doubt that ever happens.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

SeniorSitizen said:


> *************************************************
> So this switched light code could easily cause death to any unsuspecting person or even an electrician.
> 
> Looks to me the code needs to be changed but I doubt that ever happens.



Well.... You do have the morticians lobby in play here also.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

QUOTE: This is accomplished by breaking the brass tab on the side if the outlet and running an always hot to one half of the outlet and a switched hot to the other half.
******************************************************
Possibly I misunderstood fully, and breaking the tabs may not be kosher but that's just how it's done and that tab breaking in itself is a code violation.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

SeniorSitizen said:


> *************************************************
> So this switched light code could easily cause death to any unsuspecting person or even an electrician.
> 
> Looks to me the code needs to be changed but I doubt that ever happens.


I believe code is fine.
It's guys that don't follow code that are the problem.
If a guys uses two individual breakers to run to top and bottoms of outlets and does not use a tie bar, there you have an issue as code was not followed.

I imagine the switched outlet will also be required to be on the same circuit as the non switched side of the receptacle. One breaker off and the lights and both sides of the receptacle would be off, switched or not.

But, codes are constantly changing so they can sell more books. :wink2:


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

The half switched receptacle is usually on the same circuit as the always hot half. If you kill the breaker, it kills both. 

It's the split wired receptacle or a MWBC that will get you. (Assumes older install on 2 breakers and no handle tie.)


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## Justin_99 (Jan 23, 2017)

I recommend, for the best safety, to ALWAYS turn off the main breaker when doing any electrical work. (For do-it-yourselfers.)

Why? Do you know what an MWBC is and what dangers are involved with these circuits? (That is why!) Also "floating" grounds with a hot leaking to it are another situation which would be safest to turn off the main.


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## csab_ (Aug 16, 2011)

Justin_99 said:


> I recommend, for the best safety, to ALWAYS turn off the main breaker when doing any electrical work. (For do-it-yourselfers.)


I tend to agree. Even if you test the box, and everything seems to be dead, maybe you just turned off one half of an MWBC, and current is still flowing through a neutral wire.

(Though I have to admit, I don't do this. I'd like to believe I understand wiring well enough now to just turn off the single circuit. If not, write this on my grave... :smile


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

Those non contact detectors can pick up an energized circuit in an other cable that runs close to the cable feeding the receptacle.


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## shriekback (Sep 1, 2010)

Thanks again everyone! I've learned a lot here! Full disclosure - dealing with electrical scares the crap out of me. I think I'm at the point now where it'd be best to call in a professional. The kicker is I just had an electrician in 2 days prior to starting this to install a bathroom fan. Grrr....

I've got a whole new appreciation for electricians now.....you guys are rock stars.

Thanks again!


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

shriekback said:


> I've got a whole new appreciation for electricians now.....*you guys are rock stars.*
> 
> Thanks again!


...And don't you ever forget it. *EVER!*


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