# Insulating a skylight??



## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

Here's the deal, I have a skylight in a 2nd Floor bathroom. Originally, I liked it, but have come to actually hate the thing. It's east facing so in the summer, the sun bakes in and makes the room almost unbearable and in the winter, I really think I loose a lot of heat out of it. 

Originally, we planned on getting one of those shades that is made for the skylight, but the room is on the future remodel list and we didn't want to have to pick a color, only to end up doing something different, so we saved the $$ for now. Being as I was tired of the heat and heat loss, I had for a while taken some of the silver foil bubble type insulation that I had laying around and tacked that up and it worked well, but I worried that it would cause the glass to get too hot and shatter. I then took an old heavy curtain we had which wasn't being used and I've since started using it as a shade for the light and that works very well and the room is actually much better in the summer and the winter. Maybe it should be noted that for now the only heat & a/c for this 600sqft 2nd floor is a window unit ac and a baseboard heater in this room. 

At some point, I'll probably yank the sky light out and roof over the opening, but for now it remains. Does anyone have any good ideas on how to better handle the situation until that point? I've thought about using some thick foam insulation and cutting it to fit and maybe adhering some fabric to make it look better, but I worry the glass will create a magnifying effect and melt the insulation and possibly create a fire hazard. What about the foil, is it possibly for it to get too hot and crack the glass? What about coatings I could apply either inside or outside which might allow light in, but block the heat loss in the winter and unwanted heat gain in the summer.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

May just be a cheap older sky light.
A new one would have UV protection and be double pained so it would work the same as any modern window.
Foam is only a danger when exposed to direct flame.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

joecaption said:


> May just be a cheap older sky light.
> A new one would have UV protection and be double pained so it would work the same as any modern window.
> Foam is only a danger when exposed to direct flame.


I'm fairly certain it's an older one and I doubt it was top of the line. From what I can tell this bathroom was remodeled last in the 80's, so I'm guessing that's when it was installed. I'll admit the natural light is nice, but I can't take the rest. Are they fairly easy to swap out? 

Also, so if I cut a piece of foam to fit the hole, I should be safe? ....that's a good thing to know!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

All depends on what type roofing you have.
Shingles should be easy, anything else can be far harder.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1 to Joe's suggestion.

I think you are better served just adopting the position of replacement vs. MacGruber type retrofit.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

Your post isn't real clear . Are you talking about foam on the _INSIDE_ of the home _against _the glass ? That is a big _NO-NO ! SURFACE... OF... THE... SUN_ type heat build up !


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

It is an asphalt comp roof. I keep thinking next time i have it roofed I'd eliminate it. 

If i could find a nice replacement light I'd be interested in that as well, but only if certain i wouldn't have these issues. 

Yes i am speaking of something from the inside. ....i sure don't want it looking hodgepodged together from the outside. I am worried about the sun build up as well.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I have a Velux double pained openable skylight. Love it. 

As noted above, it has all the 'features'....low E, etc.

Besides letting in a significant amount of light, we can open it for wonderful circulation.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

What about toning it down, by using the Window Film for privacy. Or even go get the spray for tinting windows and see how that works out.

Just remember that if you take it out. Do not wait until it gets really cold outside. Do it while it is warm enough to loosen up the shingles around it, so that you can remove it and the flashing. Close the opening up with some Plywood, then 30# Felt, then shingle.

My dad & I took one down off of my parents house one Summer. It was over the area that the Dining table sat. It was a bad job to begin with, because it was such a large unit.

We pulled it out and covered the hole with plywood, felt, shingles. He left the opening alone and just put some lights up in there, to help with the poor lighting in the Kitchen.

I have not been in the house for a long time, since it has not been on the market for over 5 years. So I have no way of knowing if they closed over the original opening.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

*Most* Skylights have replaceable lenses. It should really be a matter of unscrewing 8 screws, taking it off and installing a new one. 

Take a picture if you can.



gregzoll said:


> Just remember that if you take it out. Do not wait until it gets really cold outside. Do it while it is warm enough to loosen up the shingles around it, so that you can remove it and the flashing. Close the opening up with some Plywood, then 30# Felt, then shingle.


To warm and the shingles will tear easy. I find it actually better to do it when they are cold. Use a nail bar to "release" the asphalt strip then start removing them. If for some crazy reason you are reusing them they need to be resealed anyway.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

gregzoll said:


> I have not been in the house for a long time, since it has not been on the market for over 5 years. So I have no way of knowing if they closed over the original opening.


 Any opening ( a chase ) from the ceiling to the removed skylight, even with a vaulted ceiling, must be closed and insulated as if there was never a skylight installed. If this isn't done that area of the sheathing will look like a dripping rain forest in colder weather.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

1985gt, we actually cut out those that needed to be staggered, once we lifted the shingles. Sad thing was that they were too easy to lift, because it was a crappy job to begin with.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> Sad thing was that they were too easy to lift, because it was a crappy job to begin with.


That's all too common. So many people think they can install shingles. Granted singles for the most part are really not all that hard to do if you can read directions. :laughing: Although the same can be said for just about anything.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Master Brian said:


> I had for a while taken some of the silver foil bubble type insulation that I had laying around and tacked that up and it worked well, but I worried that it would cause the glass to get too hot


 I wouldn't expect it to get extraordinarily hot. The silver is a _reflector._


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

About 2-3 yrs ago , I received a call to repair a broken window . A young couple had made a south facing bdrm into a nursery for their first born child . To control the room temp/light/environment , they cut a piece of pink foam board to a fairly snug fit on the inside of the glass . When I attempted to install the replacement glass , I found the foam board had had melted/bonded to the glass & caused it to shatter . 

My points are : 
1 . Concentrated solar heat can be more powerful than you would think .

2 . Pella , Andersen , Velux , etc. pay engineers to design skylights . They try to take into account many variables/factors . 

3 . If you attempt to "jerry-rig" something , keep in mind the extra risks . In my example above , the bdrm window glass actually stayed in place . The bonded foam functioned like a temporary "board-up" ...........but , keep in mind , _that_ broken glass was vertical . Which begs the answer to two questions :
A . Do you _really_ want to alter the environment on a _horizontal_ ,_ overhead _piece of lass ??? It would seem to to present potential damage _AND_ safety risks . 
B . If you _do_ , and it breaks , how will you handle the emergency board-up needed ? _AND , _the required repair ?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

dd57chevy, I see that all too common when you look at some of the DIY Home Theater Builds. Personally I would just use the UV Film and then get a Levelor blind that you can open and close with a handle that you can remove.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

I don't want to come off as argumentative or pedantic , but Brian's original post _was_ an inquiry in this general area . And with all due humility , I _have_ been doing this for a living for 35 yrs . I would _firmly_ caution against UV film or _any_ DIY modification to _any_ insulated glass unit (IG) . The film , specifically , can cause the IG airspace seal to fail _relatively quickly . _It is almost _always_ applied to the inner surface (inside the home/building) . As such , the solar energy passes _through_ the outer pane but cannot penetrate the film coated _inner _pane . The heat builds up in the narrow air space & can cause the sealant to cook & fail , resulting in a contaminated/stained appearance & possible glass breakage .


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## alexander0815 (Aug 3, 2015)

I think you should install UV protected Glass. This might be solution of your problem.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Advertising is not allowed on the forum. Good bye.


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

Your post does not say , but is this the old bubble style skylight which are very cheap and poor or a new themo flat glass style.


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

It is flat on the outside


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

Master Brian said:


> It is flat on the outside


Still ongoing? So what did you wind up doing 5 years ago?


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

3onthetree said:


> Still ongoing? So what did you wind up doing 5 years ago?


Lol completely missed that. 

Sent from my SM-A115A using Tapatalk


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## Master Brian (Apr 24, 2009)

Nothing really. I have an old curtain I tacked up and blocked the sun with.


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