# Most common socket sizes around the house



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

If you don't do automotive work, you really only need an SAE set going up to 3/4". Larger, you can typically use a crescent wrench or vise grips.

If you do auto work, you can usually get by with just a basic metric set, although suspension work runs on the larger side, up to 30mm+ for drivetrain stuff, like axle nuts. Unless you're working on really old cars, few newer cars use SAE fasteners anymore.


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## udraft (Nov 26, 2019)

Around the house- 1/4 5/16 3/8. Nut drivers might be handier for household use. Or this thing


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## BillyMac59 (Oct 19, 2021)

For general duty stuff, I keep a 1/4" drive set with metric and imperial sockets. Case is about 5" X 8" X1 1/2" cost about $50 . Fits into my over-the-shoulder soft-sided tool bag with lots of room for meter, drivers etc. The metric sockets are a must for almost all off-shore built products.


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## dtbingle (Jul 19, 2017)

udraft said:


> Around the house- 1/4 5/16 3/8. Nut drivers might be handier for household use. Or this thing


This is basically all I came up with as well. I normally use a nut driver similar to what you listed, but I've needed those sizes in socket + ratchet form for a handful of low clearance situations.

I've been going around the house trying to find other sizes than the 3 main SAE sizes and can't. Maybe I'll just pick up a spare 1/4" ratchet and those 3 sockets and then add to the collection as needed considering stores are so well stocked it's not a huge hassle to run out and grab another one.



bill.macdonald said:


> For general duty stuff, I keep a 1/4" drive set with metric and imperial sockets. Case is about 5" X 8" X1 1/2" cost about $50 . Fits into my over-the-shoulder soft-sided tool bag with lots of room for meter, drivers etc. The metric sockets are a must for almost all off-shore built products.


This makes sense...I almost picked this up (link - home depot), but the entire set felt a bit heavy to add to my 37 lb toolbag for probably the 3 SAE fastener sizes that will be used.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Until I started doing some auto repairs, socket set or even a wrench was exclusively plumbing and even that was mostly done with adjusting/plumbers wrench. For weight and keeping things simple, why not start with wrench and see. Mini channel lock is very handy.


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## RTFD (Jun 23, 2021)

I have a couple different versions of these. they are great for the "Just in case" kind of stuff. The ones I have were Costco limited purchase several years ago.
If they ever have them again I will buy at least 6 for gifts. BTW, I am always looking for a 10MM socket. Mine grow legs and leave the property.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

If you're doing anything that requires real torque to loosen or tighten you should plan on have metric and SAE - since they are NOT equivalent and will give you rounded edges on mismatched nuts and bolts.


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

1/4” and 5/16” and 3/8” are most common for appliance and furnace work.

11/32 is handy if you work with motors or other electrical. Bath fans and such. 

I find nut drivers to be more useful than a ratchet for most of my work.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I don't recall this being right. 
5/16" (*8mm)
3/8" (*10mm)
7/16" (*11mm)


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Corollary to Murphy's Law: No matter what sockets and wrenches you buy the next job will require something different.


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## dtbingle (Jul 19, 2017)

azeotrope said:


> 1/4” and 5/16” and 3/8” are most common for appliance and furnace work.
> 
> 11/32 is handy if you work with motors or other electrical. Bath fans and such.
> 
> I find nut drivers to be more useful than a ratchet for most of my work.


Thanks, this is basically all I came up with as well going around and checking various hardware around the house too.

Checked my bath fans (Panasonic and a Broan-Nutone) and no 11/32" hardware, so I may skip that for now.



Domo said:


> If you're doing anything that requires real torque to loosen or tighten you should plan on have metric and SAE - since they are NOT equivalent and will give you rounded edges on mismatched nuts and bolts.


This is understood, but what types of things around the house have you ran into that required a socket and required a high amount of torque? What size socket?



Nealtw said:


> I don't recall this being right.
> 5/16" (*8mm)
> 3/8" (*10mm)
> 7/16" (*11mm)


*close to meaning that depending on bolt tolerance and torque required, you may be able to get away with it. 5/16" / 8mm and 7/16" / 11mm are very close. 3/8" / 10mm you probably can't get away with most of the time unless you just need to spin a bolt out with zero torque. I've run into handful of situations on auto related projects where the SAE size fit better than the proper metric size of the bolt.

5/16" 0.3125" ---> 8mm 0.3150"
3/8" 0.3750" ---> 10mm 0.3937"
7/16" 0.4375 ---> 11mm 0.4331



Debating between a "4-in-1" ratcheting wrench (example here) and a 1/4" ratchet + a couple sockets.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

dtbingle said:


> This is understood, but what types of things around the house have you ran into that required a socket and required a high amount of torque? What size socket?
> 
> *close to meaning that depending on bolt tolerance and torque required, you may be able to get away with it. 5/16" / 8mm and 7/16" / 11mm are very close. 3/8" / 10mm you probably can't get away with most of the time unless you just need to spin a bolt out with zero torque. I've run into handful of situations on auto related projects where the SAE size fit better than the proper metric size of the bolt.


Yes, many, many times SAE and metric can substitute for each other when you have newer items to fiddle with.

Typically its the cheap soft metal that is commonly used that corrode/rust and then requires removal for repair or replacement - Examples I've had trouble with include; spark igniter mounting brackets attached to cooktop frame (under the top), burner assemblies for gas or electric at the top, electric element brackets in the oven, outside lamp housings when changing bulbs (typically the top mount access type), window treatment wall brackets (with cheap hex screws that have actually been driven into a stud, rather than simply sheetrock), etc. Granted, those few examples are stressed by temperature and weather exposure - but they rapidly become a job that ends up being drilled out and a larger screw/bolt being used for re-assembly.

To carry an additional few 1/4" drive sockets for the metrics can't really add too much to the weight/volume you intend to carry.

Perhaps just a tiny adjustable crescent (4") or channel lock (which I also carry) might do the entire job?


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

dtbingle said:


> Debating between a "4-in-1" ratcheting wrench (example here) and a 1/4" ratchet + a couple sockets.


In my experience, ratcheting box end wrenches are not as strong as a ratchet and socket. They are useful as part of a large tool chest, but I wouldn’t carry them in a portable box. In automotive work, I would not use the ratcheting box ends for breaking anything that was high torque. I’ve seen many of them fail under pressure. A real knuckle buster.

Where rounding off hex head bolts is a potential, I prefer 6 point sockets over 12 point sockets.


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## jim_bee (Feb 23, 2021)

Sockets along with both a ratchet and a spinner handle will provide the most flexibility. The drawback, in my experience, is needing a system to keep track of your sockets--or at least remembering to pick them up when you finish.


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## azeotrope (Jun 3, 2015)

dtbingle said:


> Thanks, this is basically all I came up with as well going around and checking various hardware around the house too.
> 
> Checked my bath fans (Panasonic and a Broan-Nutone) and no 11/32" hardware, so I may skip that for now.
> 
> ...


I love my 4-in-1 ratchet wrench. I can’t see the link to see if it’s the same one. Mine is from GearWrench and has a slim profile to it. If I recall it has 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, 1/2. Having a 1/4” ratcheting wrench is really helpful when trying to turn screws in tight places. I have never stripped the gears in it, but I have used it as a hammer and caused the directional switch to fly off… so just don’t use it as a hammer and you should be good… also don’t use a cheater bar, that would be bad news for it as well… really, you just need to know it has limits and use it within that despite how temptingly can be to do otherwise [emoji6]

11/32 was one of my least used drivers in my kit. Not often I would need to wire a motor, and when I did I could usually get by with an adjustable crammed into the same space (though I do not recommend that technique, it’s process is usually filled with frustration). It sure made life easy when I had it (if I needed it). But since this isn’t about what tools you would rarely use but find helpful, it’s about what tools you need to do MOST troubleshooting but not necessarily all repair jobs, I would say your probably safe to drop it from your list, because realistically, if you want to be able to repair it all then you will also need to have most of not all of the tools… why am I even saying that, you already know that. 

The Picquic 98880 Super 8 Plus Nut Drivers are helpful because they have a 5/16” nut driver incorporated into it. If you get it I recommend using a grinder to square up the 1/4” end so it has a sharp edge to dite against when using it on 1/4” heads. Most 1/4” heads are too low profile for it to work right out of the box.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Are we taking a bus to the job sites or could you have a better selection of tools in the car?


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## dtbingle (Jul 19, 2017)

Thanks all. I'm going to start with the following for general housework away from my main socket set at home and add as needed:
1/4" drive ratchet
3" extension
1/4"
5/16"
3/8"
10mm

The set above will be in my toolbag paired with screwdriver style nut drivers and a small crescent wrench. Definitely all in 6 pt sockets...I don't understand 12pt sockets at all except specifically for 12pt bolts (or square). And don't get me started on skipped sizes in socket sets. Tool companies: "Let's give you a full set of shallow 3/8" drive sockets in both 6pt and 12pt versions, but we'll skip the 13mm in both because you don't need it" 

My journey for this small set came about after working on our dryer. A few screws holding the overtemperature sensor and the heating element housing are positioned so that you can either, (a) disassemble entire dryer, remove drum, etc and use screwdriver style nut driver, or (b) remove front panel only and use small ratchet + socket to remove screws. Being at home, this was a non-issue to go get a ratchet, but if I were say at my parent's helping out, I would've been stuck since there really isn't enough clearance to get anything else in there.


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## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

I have a set of Metrinch sockets. When I'm not sure if I need metric or sae I grab that. I have 3/8" but most household nuts are not torqued down to massive ft/lbs so a 1/4" drive would work fine.


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