# cant start this engine for beans.....



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Hi people,

I have a pressure washer, Rigid, with a Suburu ex 21 engine. Mikuni carb. Man, Ive yanked that carb , dismantled it, cleaned vigorously/meticulously, and put all back together and no starty. 3 times!!! Yup, I even squirted ether to start, and spark/compresion must be fine as it does run for a few seconds, like it should with ether, but somehow, it dies afterward. 

Feels like fuel is nOT getting through to the cylinder. Can this be better confirmed if one looks at the spark plug tip ? Should it be obvious by looking at it say, for a "wet" look? Wil that absolutely confirm gas is getting to it?

What am I missing? I also flushed out gas/tank, initially there was dirt there, and yes, I do have gas in the float bowl.

Heeeeeeeeeelp!

NoQ.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

O.K., so you've yanked the carb. First suspicion here would be an air leak between the carb and the motor where it mounts. You state that it does run with a spray of ether for a few seconds. Not familiar with this particular engine so-is the air intake up top or on the side? Not a good practice here, so be very careful. Put a little gas in an old dish detergent bottle, one with the "pull-up' thingy on top. If you can crank it with the ether , then use the gas to spray into the carb to see if you can keep it running. If so, this would indicate a problem with gas feed. If you have a helper, have them spray some WD-40 on the area where the carb meets the motor if you get it to run with the gas bottle. It may just run on it's own for a few seconds confirming an air leak. If no luck with all of this--repair shop. I'm thinking you may have some part of the carb in wrong also. David


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Thurman said:


> O.K., so you've yanked the carb. First suspicion here would be an air leak between the carb and the motor where it mounts. You state that it does run with a spray of ether for a few seconds. Not familiar with this particular engine so-is the air intake up top or on the side? Not a good practice here, so be very careful. Put a little gas in an old dish detergent bottle, one with the "pull-up' thingy on top. If you can crank it with the ether , then use the gas to spray into the carb to see if you can keep it running. If so, this would indicate a problem with gas feed. If you have a helper, have them spray some WD-40 on the area where the carb meets the motor if you get it to run with the gas bottle. It may just run on it's own for a few seconds confirming an air leak. If no luck with all of this--repair shop. I'm thinking you may have some part of the carb in wrong also. David


Thanks, Thur. The intake is on the side. I will try the squirty thing with gas...... dont worry, I dont smoke...

Do you really thing a vacuum leak could cause an engine to not start at all? Ive had vac leaks in my car, and yes, the car runs bad, but it starts and can even get you where you want to go.....


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## Giles (Jan 25, 2010)

*Do you really thing a vacuum leak could cause an engine to not start at all? Ive had vac leaks in my car, and yes, the car runs bad, but it starts and can even get you where you want to go..... *

You have only one cylinder--a car has more. If your carburetor has a fuel bowl, it should have fuel in it, if it does not, you have a fuel transfer problem.
Also don't forget to use fresh fuel.
There is more to cleaning a carburetor then "cleaning" --you must be sure ALL passages (holes) are unrestricted. This can be accomplished with very small wire or compressed air.
Just realize that these fuel orafaces are very small and even the smallest particle of dirt or bad fuel will cause a problem:thumbsup:


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Giles said:


> *Do you really thing a vacuum leak could cause an engine to not start at all? Ive had vac leaks in my car, and yes, the car runs bad, but it starts and can even get you where you want to go..... *
> 
> You have only one cylinder--a car has more. If your carburetor has a fuel bowl, it should have fuel in it, if it does not, you have a fuel transfer problem.
> Also don't forget to use fresh fuel.
> ...


Thanks, Giles. Good point on the 1 cylinder vs 4 or 6 on a car. yes, I made sure all the tiny pin holes were cleared.....I flushed with carb cleaner and observe as the spray forced through those holes. Yes, I appreciate how tedious/tiny they are. 

gas was new. Bowl does get the gas....I had to drain the bowl every time I removed/took apart that carb. I think now, maybe I could try , in addition to the paper gasket that is between the carb and the cyl wall, some permatex sealant. That should seal it up and resolve at least the vacuum issue, huh?


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

I gotta say.....this post went to the "tools" forum, just kinda curious. never heard of an engine being called a tool. Not even close. Thats why I posted to general. maybe we should have a dedicated forum? Just a thought.


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## Giles (Jan 25, 2010)

I thank your post went to "Tools" because it is an engine on a power washer and that is considered a tool.
Now ---Have you done a compression check? A low compression condition would prevent the engine from running on gas but it would run on starting fluid. You might try putting a small amount --about 1/2 to 1 peaspoonfull of motor oil through the spark plug hole. After about 5 minutes, try to start on gas. The oil will temporarly seal the rings and increase the compression. Of course you could have a leaking head gasket, or other condition that the oil wouldn't help.
A weak spark or a bad sparkplug could be your problem. 
A good compression gauge would be the best test.:thumbsup:


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## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

noquacks said:


> Hi people,
> 
> I have a pressure washer, Rigid, with a Suburu ex 21 engine. Mikuni carb. Man, Ive yanked that carb , dismantled it, cleaned vigorously/meticulously, and put all back together and no starty. 3 times!!! Yup, I even squirted ether to start, and spark/compresion must be fine as it does run for a few seconds, like it should with ether, but somehow, it dies afterward.
> 
> ...


their is a oil sencer. I belive most of them have one . If a little low on oil it will start and than stop?? Their is a spade lug wire on it you can just check oil first. If all right take the wire off?? Mine went bad so i just leve if off. I check oil aften. Didn't want to spend lot's of money for it. Now some one is going to say that is what it is their for Right. But if motor doesn't use oil and you check each time. Save the money for gas.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

noquacks said:


> Thanks, Thur. The intake is on the side. I will try the squirty thing with gas...... dont worry, I dont smoke...
> 
> Do you really thing a vacuum leak could cause an engine to not start at all? Ive had vac leaks in my car, and yes, the car runs bad, but it starts and can even get you where you want to go.....


 I had a vacuum hose become uattached from my bike and that puppy would not start at all.
Does the machine have a turn shutoff some where? My snow blower has one.
Ron


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

You guys have been a huge support! Update: I got it started!! Combination of the extra sealant on the carb/engine surface and more orfice cleaning(?)

But, another little problem: It idles rough. Runs OK on high, but has a "hunting" idle (undulating rpm's). Heres the link to the carb: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/subaru_robin_mikuni_27x-623xx-xx_carb.asp

Its a Mikuni. Any way to steady that idle, guys? If you look at item #12 Iidle mixture needle), on the right side of page, it says the screw is set initially with a full turn (its a EX 21), but that black plastic tip thingy doesnt come off for me to verify the full turn. Could this screw be the culprit?

Thanks!!!


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## Giles (Jan 25, 2010)

noquacks said:


> You guys have been a huge support! Update: I got it started!! Combination of the extra sealant on the carb/engine surface and more orfice cleaning(?)
> 
> But, another little problem: It idles rough. Runs OK on high, but has a "hunting" idle (undulating rpm's). Heres the link to the carb: http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/subaru_robin_mikuni_27x-623xx-xx_carb.asp
> 
> ...


It appears to me that the "black" covering on the pilot screw is a restrictor to limit travel. If it were mine I would cutoff tab "Wing" that will contact the body of the carb. If you remove the entire black cap, there may not be an easy way to rotate the screw. I don't know This should allow adjustment.
Bear in mind that a carburetor does not have to be pereiodically adjusted. I have engines that are 20 years old or older and the carburetor adjustments are basically the same as when new.:thumbsup:
Before I would remove the restrictor cap, I would make sure there is no play in the throttle shaft. The throttle shaft goes through the carb. body and holds the butterfly valve. Throttle shaft "o" ring could also be damaged especially if carb. cleaner was used to clean the carb.


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