# Cesspool problem.



## stevez (Jun 14, 2006)

In march my cesspool backed up into the basement bathroom. We called in a company to have it drained but they couldn't find the hatch. So they chemically treated it and the problem went away. Until last night. We flushed the toilet a few times and it started to back up again, but it would slowly drain. I called the guys again and no luck in finding the cover. So he added 15 gallons of sulfuric acid and I am hoping this hold me over until I get some more cash together to have them electronically find it.
This worked the last time and the guy says it will work again. I realize I will have to get the tank drained. What can I add weekly or monthly to the tank to help it along.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Given that you cannot find the hatch to the cesspool, how do you know you have a cesspool? I assume you do not have any plans for the system, probably as old as the house.

I am not familiar with laws in New York, in MA your system would almost certainly be considered failed (in the legal sense), and you would not be allowed to treat it with sulfuric acid or anything else for that matter, in an effort to "rehabilitate" the system. This is not the forum for a lengthy discussion on how septic systems work, but suffice it to say yours is not working, and based on my experience, the overwhelming majority of products that purport to "rehabilitate" systems are harsh chemicals like acids or peroxides, that kill off essentially all of the bacteria that make the system work, and effectively burn holes in the soil that allows the effluent to drain (but not be treated). In other words, they are worse than junk, they allow untreated effluent to percolate directly into the groundwater, which pollutes the entire acquifer.

So asking on a DIY forum for recommendations on products that can tide you over until you can afford to fix it is at best a bad idea, and at worst you may be asking for people to recommend products that are illegal in your state, under your circumstances. You need to check with the local environmental enforcement authority, could be the local Board of Health, or a City department if you live in an incorporated area. They can advise you about legally approved methods to "fix" your system, and procedures for repair if that is required.


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## stevez (Jun 14, 2006)

I moved to the are from NYC and had sewers in the house I owned. I know basically how the system works it also may be a septic system for all I know. Also there is no sewer system in this town.
My wife got the plans from the town today and I will look at them tonight.
Obviously the sulfuric acid the man added today is legal in my state considering he is a licensed plumber.


Right now I have flushed the toilets and they seem to be o.k..
But like I said before I know the system has to drained and I will take care of that as soon as money allows.


Ialso wasn't planning on putting "illegal" chemicals in their the recommendation I was asking for is things they sell in Home Depot or Lowes 


Also how would you clean a system if it was placed under a front porch or driveway that evertimg you wanted to remove the hatch you would have to rip things up.


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

do you pay a bill to Suffolk County Sewer District :whistling2:up there?


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## stevez (Jun 14, 2006)

yes there is a sewer tax. with no sewers.


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## stevez (Jun 14, 2006)

Daniel Holzman said:


> Given that you cannot find the hatch to the cesspool, how do you know you have a cesspool? I assume you do not have any plans for the system, probably as old as the house.
> 
> I am not familiar with laws in New York, in MA your system would almost certainly be considered failed (in the legal sense), and you would not be allowed to treat it with sulfuric acid or anything else for that matter, in an effort to "rehabilitate" the system. This is not the forum for a lengthy discussion on how septic systems work, but suffice it to say yours is not working, and based on my experience, the overwhelming majority of products that purport to "rehabilitate" systems are harsh chemicals like acids or peroxides, that kill off essentially all of the bacteria that make the system work, and effectively burn holes in the soil that allows the effluent to drain (but not be treated). In other words, they are worse than junk, they allow untreated effluent to percolate directly into the groundwater, which pollutes the entire acquifer.
> 
> So asking on a DIY forum for recommendations on products that can tide you over until you can afford to fix it is at best a bad idea, and at worst you may be asking for people to recommend products that are illegal in your state, under your circumstances. You need to check with the local environmental enforcement authority, could be the local Board of Health, or a City department if you live in an incorporated area. They can advise you about legally approved methods to "fix" your system, and procedures for repair if that is required.





I appreciate your answer, but please don't ever answer one of my thread like I am 7 years old. I understand how the system works and I realize what the acid does. So it must be you that didn't understand my question I was asking if there was anything that could added to the cesspool to help it along. Something that will maybe help with bring back the bacteria that helps the cesspool run properly until I get the cash to find the lid and have it pumped out. I didn't need a lecture on how to treat my system or what can be put into it. A professional took cars of it and I am sure whatever he did is perfectly legal in my area. We all may not be as rich as you. That is why there are DYI sites.


Is there any one else that may be able to help me pick something that my help this cesspool along.


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## Royal Reynolds (May 6, 2012)

*Pe*

I realize that this response is several years after this original question was asked, however, in the event that someone is looking for similar help, I am posting this response. I am a Professional Engineer with over thirty years of experience in public health. Since the gentleman's house is in Suffolk County and assuming it was built after 1974, it is serviced by a septic tank (solid concrete box for settling and digestion of sewage) followed by leaching pools (concrete leaching rings that leach treated sewage into the ground). When public water is utilized, the sewage disposal system is most often located in the "front" yard of the house. In general, after twenty years the septic tank is probably full with solids and the leaching pool holes and bottom clogged with a "bio-mat" and slime. The system "fails" when the solids block the inlet pipe coming into the septic tank or the leaching pools clog and more water flows into the system than leaches out, preventing the wastewater from leaving the house, backing up the water until it comes out through the lowest fixture drain in the house, for example, the washing machine drain, downstairs shower drain or toilet or house vent. 

To answer the question, there is really no silver bullet that can be applied through the house plumbing that will resolve the problem or "buy more time" for the system. In the interim, while trying to locate the system and have it opened up for service, you can "snake" the sewer line to the septic tank and cut down water usage to a minimum for example no laundry, short showers, even wash dishes by hand. Now the system must be serviced because we can not live like this and keep our marriage together. Getting a copy of the survey and inspection report from the Suffolk County Department of Health Services (Office of Wastewater)is a first step if you do not know where your septic tank cover(s) are or where your leaching pool covers are. The covers must be located and uncovered and opened for inspection, pumping and treatment. 

Inspection & Service: Open the trap, if accessible, and if there is a release of pressure (back pressure) coming from the septic tank the system is definitely failed as described above. Next open the septic tank cover on the inlet side and check for solids; the solids should be removed (pumped out); these solids will consist of scum and sludge, both should be removed. Next open the leaching pool cover(s) (there may be more than one leaching pool). Most reputable contractors will "aerate" the leaching pool, that is they will partially pump it down and then re-inject some of the pumped out wastewater through a narrow metal pipe into the bottom of the pool, breaking up and aerating the biomat and slime. This will reestablish a leaching rate that will make the leaching pool function properly. Many contractors then will add 5 gallons of acid to the partially pumped leaching pool; this acid settles to the bottom and further breaks up the biomat by dissolving some of the iron sulfide precipitate (slime) that has built up over the years.

Never hire contractors that want to add acid as the first resort, get the job done properly and it should last another ten years. Acid should only go directly into the leaching pools, never into the septic tank or house vent and it is legal for this use in Suffolk County. Eventually another leaching pool may have to be installed. I hope this helps.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Royal Reynolds said:


> Most reputable contractors will "aerate" the leaching pool, that is they will partially pump it down and then re-inject some of the pumped out wastewater through a narrow metal pipe into the bottom of the pool, breaking up and aerating the biomat and slime. This will reestablish a leaching rate that will make the leaching pool function properly.


Touching on what you stated. I talked with a waste system expert and he told me simply aerating (adding oxygen to an anerobic septic system), it will turn it into an makeshift aerobic system and really help out with the leachfield biomat and the tanks sludge breakdown. He said that he adds an air line to the first chamber of a 2-chamber septic tank and runs oxygen through the system for 24/7 and after a few weeks, the systems leach field can see significant improvement. He claims that aerobic bacteria breaks down the biomat and sludge 20 times faster than anaerobic bacteria. 

He claims it is an easy, inexpensive thing to do and it makes a huge difference in any anaerobic septic system. He said that at his home he has an air pump running 24/7 blowing in fine air bubbles to his tank. It costs him around $5 a month in electricity but he said that you will never have leachfield biomat issue or excessive sludge build up with that simple addition. 

Have you ever heard of such a thing???


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## Royal Reynolds (May 6, 2012)

Good to hear from you. Yes, aeration is definitely a great idea and there are several products like your friend used, do you know if it was a brand name package he used or something he put together himself. Aeration is a common process in sewage treatment plants and the science applies to individual systems as well. In fact, besides air and sulfuric acid to break down the bio-mat, hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) has been used to oxygenate the bio-mats and slime in leaching fields. As a side line I actually experimented with pumping air directly into the bottom of a leaching pool, the problem was that the oxygen did break down the sulfate based slime but gave off hydrogen sulfide gas (H2S) as a by product. The gas backed up into my basement and permeated the neighborhood; enough of that experiment. The key is to keep the wastewater aerobic because if it goes septic and then you aerate you may have to deal with H2S gas. I may install an aerobic unit in my septic tank as a test; if you had an idea as to what your friend used it would help in picking. I am also concerned that the aerator will create a positive pressure and I will have to deal with any gases emanating from the system.

Hope to hear from you.


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

There are few kits out there. It's a pretty simple idea, take an aerator, place it in the first chamber. Hook-up an airline from an air pump and away you go. 

I use the same type of concept on my Koi pond. It has an aerator running 24/7. This gives the Koi oxygen and keeps the aerobic bacteria in the pond active. Without the aerator the water quality would suffer and the Koi can get sick or die. This can be seen on a larger scale when ponds and lakes have huge fish kills. It is usually due to a lack of oxygen content in the water, so the water goes rancid and the fish die. 

The main thing is to chose an aerator pump that can easily have the diaphragm replaced every year. I have to do that on my pond aerator. It is a simple 45 minute maintenance thing (costs $30) but it allows one to replace the part that will eventually wear out. 

Here is one septic aerators:

http://www.septicsolutions.com/SepticAerator/RepairSepticProblems.html


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## JackOfAllTrades (Jan 8, 2008)

Another issue with septic tanks is that 95% of homeowners install the bare and basic minimum system that the county code allows. Most homeowners will spend days, weeks or even months picking and choosing house colors, countertops, etc., but spend all of maybe 30 minutes picking a septic system.

If the code requires a 1,200 gallon septic tank for their home, that is what they install. If the code requires so many feet of leach field lines, that is what they put in. They go bare minimum to what the code requires.

The better thing to do is to OVERSIZE the tank and leachfield. If code requires 1,200 gallon tank, spend the extra $600 and get a 1,500 gallon or even 2,000 gallon septic tank. That $1k more will be well worth the future piece of mind and the extra capacity comes in handy when you have family over or are running a lot of water through it.

The same goes for the leachfield. Ideally if you have the space, install a Distribution box with a valve and have 2 leachfields. Then every 6-12 months, turn the valve and let the effluent run into the other leachlines. This keeps the system from being overloaded and if a field ever fails, you have a 2nd field to use. Instead of paying $15k to install another field, you simply flip the valve.

While space can be hard for some, at least put in the largest leachfield you can fit. Don't just go bare minimum.


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## dee knoll (Sep 23, 2012)

I have a cesspool and was airated recently and now we have a foul oder coming form the air vent near our front door,. What causes the foul oder, does the cesspool need to be pumped or chemicals added? the cesspool is quite old (38yrs old ?+) Is it time for a new cesspool. I add yeast to the cesspool at times through out the year, is this a good idea? WHAT DO I DO? ty dee


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

stevez said:


> I Also how would you clean a system if it was placed under a front porch or driveway that evertimg you wanted to remove the hatch you would have to rip things up.


Rip the things up, or install a new septic tank in a different location. It is bad planning to build over a septic tank or cesspool so that the hatch(es) cannot be accessed.

All septic tanks need to be pumped out sooner or later. Cesspools (they're built in the same manner as dry wells) are illegal nowadays in most towns although one may be found here and there and may be grandfathered.

Acid does no good in a septic tank. Acid might rejuvenate a cesspool but it is much better to pump out the cesspool first and then spray the acid on the sides all the way around as opposed to just flush the acid down a toilet where it becomes highly diluted when it gets into the cesspool. Acid might rejuvenate a leach field for a septic system.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

08-03-2009, 10:09 PM Its alive its alive brought back from the dead after 3 years its still alive!!!!:laughing:


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

dee knoll said:


> I have a cesspool and was airated recently and now we have a foul oder coming form the air vent near our front door,. What causes the foul oder, does the cesspool need to be pumped or chemicals added? the cesspool is quite old (38yrs old ?+) Is it time for a new cesspool. I add yeast to the cesspool at times through out the year, is this a good idea? WHAT DO I DO? ty dee


When you converted from a "plain" (non-aerated; anaerobic) system to an aerated system. different kinds of bacteria exuding different odors started to thrive inside.

More of the solid matter is decomposed into liquid by aerobic bacteria. There is no imminent or related need to pump out the cesspool although it could be overdue for pumping due to other reasons. Do not put down chemicals. That would kill the bacteria and eliminate the advantage of aeration.

The vent near your front door should be relocated, using a buried solid 1-1/2 to 2 inch pipe, running somewhat farther from the house. At its new location the vent should be above ground level and open downward so it and the buried pipe don't fill with rain water.


Javiles said:


> 08-03-2009, 10:09 PM Its alive its alive brought back from the dead after 3 years its still alive!!!!:laughing:


Thanks to the Diychatroom search function or Google.


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