# Wall to shower/tub ideas?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You have 2, issues. Your missing another 2 X 4 so the two walls can make a 90 deg. corner, and it sure looks like you used some sort of screw instead of roofing nails to attach the enclosure.
I like to make that area at least 4" not the 2" you have.
It's going to be really hard to install an outside corner and finish the sheetrock the way you have it now.
You need roof nails so all most nothing it sticking out to hold off the drywall.
It's also a great idea to add 1/4 lattis to the walls on the ends and backside of the enclosure that set just above it. That way the sheetrock will sit level and not kick out at the area where it over laps the enclosure.


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## GregDake (Nov 17, 2012)

Joe,

Thanks for the quick response.

1.) The flathead screws I used for the shower surround are the screws recommended by the surround manufacturer. 

2.) Yes, too would have liked to build out one more 2x4, but there isn't room. Those studs build the wall which is behind the entry door. There isn't room to come out an additional 2". There is only about 3/4" between the door frame and the already added stud.

This bathroom was plaster, originally built in 1958.

Thanks again for your help, but I need to keep persuing ideas...

Greg


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

Use cement board or green board along the edge of surround and above.place this first to edge of stud then take the rock from the door to edge of green/ cement board.
If the surround edge is wider the board as Joe stated put spacers( lattice ) between screws to level board to surround.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Please don't make duplicate threads, thank you.


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## GregDake (Nov 17, 2012)

What would be the best way to attach the thin strip of cement board to the edge of the acrylic?

Greg


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No clue why he suggested using tile board. Green board will work fine.
I'd use drywall nails with drywall adhesive behind it.
Being that narrow I'm afraid screws will just crack it.
You still have to shim out those studs!
The fastners should be going into the studs not the encloshure.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

joecaption said:


> No clue why he suggested using tile board. Green board will work fine.
> I'd use drywall nails with drywall adhesive behind it.
> Being that narrow I'm afraid screws will just crack it.
> You still have to shim out those studs!
> The fastners should be going into the studs not the encloshure.


I suggested tile board because its a wet location.
How does he protect the green board from water and moisture?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It's outside the wet area for one thing.
The O/P already said he was using green board.
It would be a real challange to try and attach tile board or the outside corner when it's only 2" wide without breaking it.


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

Looking at the photo. I see the wall was furred out, looks like the store bought shower surround required it.
Can you imagine trimming that door later?

Just not a fan of preformed plastic products., will require building out or furring the wall.
Then will be another question on how to trim the door.
We are here to help, but now may be a good time to be thinking ahead.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

joecaption said:


> It's outside the wet area for one thing.
> The O/P already said he was using green board.
> It would be a real challange to try and attach tile board or the outside corner when it's only 2" wide without breaking it.


Outside the wet area? Really!? 
OP did not say he was using green board,you did.
Attaching tile board would be no more of a challenge then the green board.
Actually,the green board is more like to crack/ break then the tile board.


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## GregDake (Nov 17, 2012)

Greetings folks!

Thank you so far for all of the candid replies.

Yes, this is an existing shower/tub alcove which the tub fit great, but the shower surround is just a bit wide. I furred out the wall behind the entryway door, as you can see. Yes, the trim will also be difficult around the back side of the door as I only have 1/2 inch or so once the drywall will be hung.

I'm really baffled as to what I can do about the 2" or so on the lip of the acrylic shower surround. I am open to putting anything there, that will be durable and look nice. I'm not confident I can cut a 2" piece of drywall, fasten it, and make it look nice...but then again I'm new to this and can be convinced otherwise.

The entire project has gone great, subfloor, electrical, plumbing, drains, tub setting, shower surround...until this roadblock.

I'll remain optimistic, and again, greatly appreciate any further assistance.

Greg


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

ok, my two cents... I can't see how wide the existing door is, so this idea may suck...would it be possible to re-jamb the door for a thinner one, allowing you to frame out the wall? This could give you ample room for corner bead at the shower, as well as door casing. 
CC


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## GregDake (Nov 17, 2012)

Hello!

Rejambing the door isn't really an option. It involves too much plaster work on the outside of the door. (it would be like pulling the thread on the sweater)

Still looking for ideas to finish the acrylic edge....

Project on pause until I get this figured out....

Thanks again everyone.

Greg


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

The only thing I can think of is to fur out the 2nd and 3rd new studs a bit further - possibly attach another 2x4 to the face of them. You'll end up with a bump-out, but it would end up looking like a support column, after it's finished. It's not ideal, but you're not leaving many options.


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

better late than never..Creating a flush surface around shower/tub units. Sheetrock is cut back leaving entire flange exposed to where in the past the flange would be covered creating high spots.
The void is then packed with quick setting joint compound, left to dry flat and then taped.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...40879884.18068.100001501670420&type=3&theater


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

be sure and click the link associated with the photo


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

Why didnt you just shim around the flange and run the drywall up to the tub.So you ran the drywall to the flange and filling it with compound.Sorry but if thats what you did,thats screwed up.


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

scottktmrider said:


> Why didnt you just shim around the flange and run the drywall up to the tub.So you ran the drywall to the flange and filling it with compound.Sorry but if thats what you did,thats screwed up.


didnt click the link and read the comments did you? 
we've been finishing Every house this way for the past 5 years. It's common place here. Why would a builder shim out three walls in a bathroom when he can have the drywall contractor fix the problem in lock step with finishing the rest of the house.
I bed all the corner beads with quick-set. When bedding the beads we always pack the void around the tub units as well. everything turns out flat and sound. no cracking with very little caulking needed.
screwed up is taking hours of labor for fir out walls when it only takes a few minutes for the finisher to fix. wasteful IMO


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

drywallfinisher said:


> didnt click the link and read the comments did you?
> we've been finishing Every house this way for the past 5 years. It's common place here. Why would a builder shim out three walls in a bathroom when he can have the drywall contractor fix the problem in lock step with finishing the rest of the house.
> I bed all the corner beads with quick-set. When bedding the beads we always pack the void around the tub units as well. everything turns out flat and sound. no cracking with very little caulking needed.
> screwed up is taking hours of labor for fir out walls when it only takes a few minutes for the finisher to fix. wasteful IMO


It takes us about 10 min to fur around showers.Best thing to use is pieces of roof shingles nail 2 next to the flange and 1 about 4" to 6" above the double one.Run the drywall to the tub and flat tape next to the tub.I guess if it works for you i just never seen it done like that.


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