# Difference Between Cheap and Expensive Motor Oil



## hellohello (Oct 17, 2013)

The local auto parts stores sell cheap generic motor oil for about $3-$4 per quart, and then name brand stuff for 5, 6, 7, 8 bucks per quart. So what's the difference between the cheap stuff and the more expensive stuff?


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Then name on the label? if all the other specs match.


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Dealing in standard Dinos...not much. In order to really know, you have to know more than what is listed on the standard label.


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Since the generic brand is actually one of the name brands.?


----------



## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

The cheaper brands are generally made by one of the big oil companies. Shell, Conaco, Texaco, ect. The difference between name brand and generic is the additive package. The more additives the "better" the oil. 

If you can use regular oil in your car all that means is the oil change interval should be more frequent. Follow the 3k/3month rule. If it's a newer car I'd use a little better brand of oil, there is Ratings on the oil, API SN is the current classification. If you have an older car a SJ ect rating may be fine. 


Look in the owners manual, as long as the clasification you need meets or exceeds what you are buying it should be ok. If your car is rated at A SI you can use any oil rated SI or Above.


----------



## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

If you're going to dump it out in 3 to 8 thousand miles anyway the difference is moot.


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Also, If the oil companies are telling us the oil of now is so superior to the oil 25 years ago, then why are they still telling us to change it every 3,000 miles.?
I use to drink that kool-aid. Now I only change my oil every 20 to 30,000, that means when I get around to it.


----------



## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

The oil might be fine but the additive packages in it will have been broke down. Most manufactures have an extended service intervals, and hardly anyone is in need of the severe limits 2k 3 months. I change mine when the dash tells me to. I use Mobil 1 in both my wifes Nissan maxima and my 1/2 ton Chevy. Mine almost always comes up first around 5k-7K Miles but I do a lot of towing in the spring, summer, fall. Her's has a lot of idle time picking up the kids from school. To go 20-30K is pushing it a bit much. I agree with drinking the kool-aid but the oil has far out lived it's useful life at 20k miles.


----------



## ChantryOntario (Apr 22, 2013)

I'd like to chime in here with a similar question......

I often go by color. I check w/the dipstick, and if the oil is nice and gold, i leave it for a while. I change when I notice the oil is getting dark or if I am getting up to around 5,000 miles whichever comes first. I wonder if the additives are gone or the lubrication has decreased long before the color changes....?


----------



## Rango (Dec 13, 2013)

Oil threads are a lot of fun in automotive forums. Are you comparing apples to apples? Full synthetic is going to be much more expensive than a base grade motor oil. I put full synthetic in all four vehicles now, I consider it cheap insurance. But I keep my vehicles for a long time.


----------



## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

ChantryOntario said:


> I'd like to chime in here with a similar question......
> 
> I often go by color. I check w/the dipstick, and if the oil is nice and gold, i leave it for a while. I change when I notice the oil is getting dark or if I am getting up to around 5,000 miles whichever comes first. I wonder if the additives are gone or the lubrication has decreased long before the color changes....?


It can be an indicator. The oil changing color is debris in the oil and moisture. The additives can also wear out before the oil changes color, unless you are in an extreme environment 5k is ok. 




Rango said:


> Oil threads are a lot of fun in automotive forums. Are you comparing apples to apples? Full synthetic is going to be much more expensive than a base grade motor oil. I put full synthetic in all four vehicles now, I consider it cheap insurance. But I keep my vehicles for a long time.


Some things are not made for synthetics, I run conventional oil in my Harley crank case because the older Harleys do not do well with synthetics in the crankcase. Even then the oil is $8 a quart. In the transmission and primary I do run synthetics and they run around $20 a quart. In most cars and trucks after 2000 synthetics are fine for the most part.


----------



## Rango (Dec 13, 2013)

1985gt said:


> Some things are not made for synthetics, I run conventional oil in my Harley crank case because the older Harleys do not do well with synthetics in the crankcase. Even then the oil is $8 a quart. In the transmission and primary I do run synthetics and they run around $20 a quart. In most cars and trucks after 2000 synthetics are fine for the most part.


I know it can make seals leak but I'm not familiar with synthetics being incompatible or that expensive. I think I pay $8 a quart. I am running Royal Purple in my 36 year old BMW motorcycle and had it out in 90 degree weather, no leaks!


----------



## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Yes it can seep through seals and with older engines or worn out engines they can make more noise. 

I run Redline shock proof in the trans, it's around $18 a quart. I rounded up 

In my truck and wife's car I get mobil 1 for about $5 a quart.


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Synthetics do not make seals leak. They will show were leaks are and can manifest as leaks where leaks were not previously. The additional lubricity and "slipperyness" of the synthetic molecules allow it to pass where conventional dino didn't previously.

If you can afford synthetics, the are great. 

Be sure to check base stocks and what they are using. Some can claim to be synthetic where they really are not.


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I buy Mobile1 synthetic at Walmart, $20-$22 for the big 5 quart jug. $4 a quart isn't bad at all for a decent synthetic. Same jug at Bridge Autoparts is $45.


----------



## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Once a year,whether it needs it or not. What ever CarX puts in there. '96 f-150.


----------



## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

I put a lot of thought into the brand and weight of oil in my Silverado. I buy a good filter and do the work myself. It's fun, and a good destresser. Plus I know it is better for the truck. 

But my wheel wells are rusting out on a 6 year old truck. Good thing I put all that thought into the inside of the crankcase!


----------

