# crappy router table



## wwpro (Nov 24, 2009)

hi there

I bought this router/table combo a few years ago, tried to use it a couple of times with terrible results and it has been buried in my garage since then. Let me tell you that I've been reading about it lately and no one seems to say nothing good, besides price, about this table.

Now I want a router table, to do some stuff, but I won't plan on using it that much to justify buying a much more expensive one, at the moment at least.

I'm attaching pictures so you can better understand my problem, I'm gonna try to explain it, but since I know myself very well I decided to add the pics :thumbup:

Basically the problem is the fence, there's no way I can align this thing. I've tried washers and sanding high spots on the cast parts, but still same deal. When I run my board before the bit there's no problem, but when the board enters the out-feed part of the fence it hits it, at that moment you're stuck or have to slightly move the board to be able to keep moving forward, causing a variation on the profile, making it unusable.

My thoughts : Make a new fence, but I don't know if that's a good idea, or how to make one, or if it's even gonna work. Or buying an aftermarket fence, but I don't know. You can tell I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this stuff, but we all have to start somewhere.

Please let me know what you thing, at this point I can even believe that whole thing might be assembled wrong.

Have a nice day:thumbsup:


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## wwpro (Nov 24, 2009)

All shame aside, I have to admit it .. I'm stupid :whistling2:

That "difference" between the in-feed and out-feed fence is how much material are you removing lol. 

But what happens when you want to use a ogee or raised panel bit ? you're using your edge and the material is being removed from the down face of the board , right ?


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## Itsdanf (Jan 29, 2009)

Seems to me that you should be able to shim the right side of the fence, between the black and silver part. I'm not familiar with this product, but I see tightening knobs behind -- looks like it helps attach the black part. You mentioned using washers or shims. Did you try that on that part?


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Itsdanf said:


> Seems to me that you should be able to shim the right side of the fence, between the black and silver part. I'm not familiar with this product, but I see tightening knobs behind -- looks like it helps attach the black part. You mentioned using washers or shims. Did you try that on that part?


A good router table will have infeed and oufeed fences, which can be adjusted independently. There should be provisions for two adjustments for each fence. One to control the distance from the fence to the bit and the other to limit the exposed portion of the bit. I'm with Itsdanf, shim the infeed fence out. You may want to go to an auto parts store and get 1/32" thick older GM front end alignment shims.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Er-I have that same router table. I have many hours of use on it with no problem. In your pictures I see that you may have the black wood guide on your right side on backwards. The beveled edge on mine is near the cutter. The bevel gives the guide clearance when the fence is near the cutter, flip it end over end. The top picture is not real clear to me, but the guide on that side appears to be incorrectly installed also. Note the two clamp knobs which hold the entire fence in place: I changed the bolts on mine to longer carriage bolts with the heads filed down to fit into the slots underneath. I then found some spacers so that the clamp knobs would be higher up and easier to reach. Remember that this is not a real high dollar router table, it's basically, IMO, a home, use once-in-a-while version. I'm currently working on a fine adjustment to move the fence in/out. Thanks, David


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

heh heh...
you guys need to count your blessings.....

i WISH i had YOUR problems! (see below)

DM


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

DangerMouse said:


> heh heh...
> you guys need to count your blessings.....
> 
> i WISH i had YOUR problems! (see below)
> ...


Mine's similar, except its stand is an old aquarium base. DM, you really should use two c clamps to hold your fence.


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

The fence is clamped to the _other_ router table just out of view :laughing:


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Jay123 said:


> The fence is clamped to the _other_ router table just out of view :laughing:


Wow DM is extremely fortunate to have 2 router tables


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

He had to do _something_ with the other half of that table. :thumbsup:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Jay123 said:


> The fence is clamped to the _other_ router table just out of view :laughing:


yeah, but i figured i'd better just show you guys the GOOD one, so you wouldn't laugh at me....

DM


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

:laughing: It's really all you need, a flat surface and a fence :yes:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

yup, at this point it's about all i can do... route the edges of my boxes... maybe a little roman ogee on the lids.... lol
i'd love a real one....

DM


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

But your using a decent Rockler bit.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

me? no, that's a ryobi bit. unless rockler makes them.

DM


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## wwpro (Nov 24, 2009)

Thurman said:


> Er-I have that same router table. I have many hours of use on it with no problem. In your pictures I see that you may have the black wood guide on your right side on backwards. The beveled edge on mine is near the cutter. The bevel gives the guide clearance when the fence is near the cutter, flip it end over end. The top picture is not real clear to me, but the guide on that side appears to be incorrectly installed also. Note the two clamp knobs which hold the entire fence in place: I changed the bolts on mine to longer carriage bolts with the heads filed down to fit into the slots underneath. I then found some spacers so that the clamp knobs would be higher up and easier to reach. Remember that this is not a real high dollar router table, it's basically, IMO, a home, use once-in-a-while version. I'm currently working on a fine adjustment to move the fence in/out. Thanks, David



I'll check that later, the 1st picture is just a picture of the table to have as reference when you see the close-ups, and the metal "shim" on the out-feed table is out on the 1st pic, probably that's what caught your attention.

I'll try later and report back

thanks :thumbup:


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## jbraun (Dec 27, 2009)

Hey wwpro,

I know this thread is about a month old, but what did you do? I would like to get a router table, but after a really bad experience with Ryobi I refuse to buy anything else they make


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

I have 2 of those really cheap Craftsman router tables. Never had a problem with them.


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## DIYtestdummy (Jan 16, 2008)

I built mine - fence, jigs, all but the T-tracs. Not to brag, but it's slightly better than DM's. I just couldn't use on of the small tables and couldn't justify the prices, especially years ago when I built mine and was working out of a 4x5' toolshed at an apartment.

Forgot the main reason I built my own - all the ones with their own stands were too short and I hated having to bend all the time, especially since it made me more vulnerable to a high-velocity blade! This way, more of my weight and center of gravity is below the table top in case I fall or my knees should buckle from the long cuts.

I made an insert for my table saw just recently and had my doubts about the height when I was rounding some long strips of basemoulding...YIKES!


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

mouse thats all you need unless you are removing material from piece. I have a 3'x3' melamine top with centered router , melamine L shape fence ,clamps and screws. Works first time every time for what I need :thumbsup:


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