# Installing shower in basement



## braindead (May 31, 2010)

I think you have to go to plan B, the hook-up you have now is completly illegal! :no:


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## acerunner (Dec 16, 2009)

i second plan b.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You will be happier with plan B--That will give you a chance to install a washer drain box,too,If you wish to modernize the whole area..


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## jobblyman (Sep 15, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. Got held up and now getting back to the basement. Completely illegal?! My house was built in 1966 and there is just the floor drain in that room, which the utility sink and the washer use. I guess that was how laundry rooms were set up back in the day?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Post a picture ,if you can.----You have a freefall drain set up there---not illegal--used in restaurant kitchens all the time---However, your new shower will look like a funky temporary rig that will not add value to the house at all---

If a temporary,make due for now,quality of work suits the job---plan A

If you want the work to improve the house--Plan B


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Doesn't each fixture require its own trap?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You know,that may be code in residences---I'd tear the floor open and do it right myself.

In a commercial kitchen several fixtures can share a free fall---I have never seen a free fall drain in a residence.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> You know,that may be code in residences---


I'm not sure if it's code...but I've heard it mentioned here...


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A funky installation like that will not improve the house--just drag the value down---

I like to do things right or not at all----------------


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## the_man (Aug 14, 2010)

In my code, a shower cannot be run as indirect waste. Also, any indirect waste piping that is over 5' in length must be trapped regardless of where it drains


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## jobblyman (Sep 15, 2010)

OK thank you again for the replies. It's nice talking DIY, as all my friends have children or condos so no DIY chat there. I tend to agree with Mike about doing things right, I just tend to also be cheap. 

I finally have some photos together. The first photo is of the utility sink, with washer drain hanging off the side. The pipe on the bottom is from the AC and the humidifier drain. I believe this connects to the drop from the kitchen. From there it connects to the main stack. I'm not sure then how the water drains out of the house? I would think it goes out from the main stack, but then the chimney is over that path so I'm not sure. Perhaps it goes out towards the front from the drain under the utility sink? The utility sink is on the back wall.


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## jobblyman (Sep 15, 2010)

*new plans*

Here is what I'm hoping to do. I would like the new shower in front of the washer and dryer. Then the pipe would go across the floor to under the washer and dryer location. I'm thinking from there branch out so I can have that washer drain outlet. From there connect to the main floor drain. In order for the utility sink not to drain into the floor, I'm thinking of tapping off of the kitchen drain and connecting the utility tub there? Any input, advice, criticism is greatly appreciated. Thanks again.


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## jobblyman (Sep 15, 2010)

*lastly*

What about venting? Do I need to run a vent pipe over from the new shower to have it connect to the main 1 1/2" vent going out? That 1 1/2" vent connects in the attic to the large vent from the main waste stack. 

Thanks again.


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## ultimatetouch (Oct 8, 2010)

You should check with your local municipality on the codes. At least where I live anytime your doing a basement remodeling job or installing a new bathroom in a basement, you must install an ejector pit. Then you run your drains to the ejector pit and then it gets pumped overhead to a stack. Not only is this code in every town I have done work in but it will save your basement in the long run. If there is ever sewer back up there are no low spots for the back up to come out of. 
_______________________________________________


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## the_man (Aug 14, 2010)

ultimatetouch said:


> You should check with your local municipality on the codes. At least where I live anytime your doing a basement remodeling job or installing a new bathroom in a basement, you must install an ejector pit. Then you run your drains to the ejector pit and then it gets pumped overhead to a stack. Not only is this code in every town I have done work in but it will save your basement in the long run. If there is ever sewer back up there are no low spots for the back up to come out of.
> _______________________________________________


there is always a low spot for sewage to come out of in the event of a backup. all you're doing with that pump is isolating it with a check valve. a back water valve on a gravity system will do the same thing, and is required by my code any time you have fixtures lower than the downstream manhole in the street. don't install a $500 pump and basin to save from buying a $20 fitting


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## jobblyman (Sep 15, 2010)

hmmm, I didn't plan on installing a pump. My floor drain drops 17" below the cement basement floor. The sanitary manhole out front has a depth of 8.85 feet. I'm not sure why ultimatetouch wants me to pump water up, only for it to fall further down???


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## umberto (Nov 2, 2010)

Yeah, definitely be careful plumbing a basement. It can be tricky. Are you putting an apartment down there? I've been thinking about fixing up my basement for extra income.


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## the_man (Aug 14, 2010)

jobblyman said:


> hmmm, I didn't plan on installing a pump. My floor drain drops 17" below the cement basement floor. The sanitary manhole out front has a depth of 8.85 feet. I'm not sure why ultimatetouch wants me to pump water up, only for it to fall further down???


In my code, a backwater valve is required anytime a fixture is located below the flood level (street level) of the upstream manhole. Thought for that is that if the city main backs up, it'll flood your basement before it overflows from the manhole. Only the fixtures in the basement should go thru the backwater valve. The alternative is an outdoor check valve that serves all fixtures (www.cleancheck.com) I'm not a fan of those, because your upstairs sewage can flood your basement, which won't happen if you isolate basement fixtures alone.


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## ultimatetouch (Oct 8, 2010)

the_man said:


> there is always a low spot for sewage to come out of in the event of a backup. all you're doing with that pump is isolating it with a check valve. a back water valve on a gravity system will do the same thing, and is required by my code any time you have fixtures lower than the downstream manhole in the street. don't install a $500 pump and basin to save from buying a $20 fitting


Again check with your local building codes. Where i liive you have to install an ejector when doing any bathroom work. Read carefully "the man". Yes if you have a drain (low spot) in the floor that doesnt go to the the ejector pit then you could get water from that area. Now days you are supposed run any new drains in the floor to the ejector pit.


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