# mildew, paint peeling on deck railing



## nthompso1 (Jul 24, 2011)

I need advice on what paint and procedure to use for repainting a deck railing. The paint is peeling off and it is in a shady place so mildew tends to grow on one side. I used a cleaner to get most of the mildew off. I am planning on sanding it next after it is completely dry. Then, what paint should I use? My brother recommended KILZ - but there are several kinds and I don't know which is best. If there is another better brand I would be glad to hear about it too. Do I need to prime or is that the kind of paint that doesn't need a primer? I would appreciate any advice as I'm a single mom who is new at home repairs and such. Thank you very much.


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## mustangmike3789 (Apr 10, 2011)

Although my expertise is more in structural steel protective coatings and single moms, I can't help you with wood deck issues:wink: I don't think that kilz will help you in your situation. I may be wrong, but I do think that you will need to scrape,sand and apply a semi-transparent stain. Wait for someone with more knowledge in this area such as jsheridan or sdsester. BTW...welcome to the site.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Welcome to the forum. I'll address the deck issue with you and get with Mustang by PM for the advice on single moms.:laughing:
Firstly, there's no getting "most" of the mildew off:no:. Throw a solution of three parts water, one part bleach, with a little detergent, TSP if possible, together and apply it followed by rinsing. 
Follow that with sanding entirely with 80 grit paper, paying special attention and effort to the areas where the wood was exposed, as they will be the trouble spots. Be sure to dust off any sanding dust, use a blower if you have one. 
As to coatings, *do not use paint*. If you currently have an opaque finish, you can't see the wood, use a solid stain. It will look like paint, but it's not. Stain and paint are very different. Stain breathes better and will be less likely to fail. They also fail in different ways and stain will be much easier to prepare when it fails than paint will be. 
Just be sure the wood is dry before you stain. Use Sherwin-Williams deckscapes stain. It has a higher tolerance for moisture levels. Also, it's important that any stain applied to bare wood be brushed into it. You can apply it with a roller, but it must be brushed as well to penetrate well. The second coat, stain over stain, can be rolled without backbrushing, if you like the rolled look.
Good Luck and check back with questions before you make any mistakes, that's why we're here.
Joe


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## ydduba (Jun 27, 2011)

I have many of the same issues as listed in my posting" help refinishing a 5 year old deck". If as you state, your original finish was indeed paint, as mine is, what is the compatibility of stain over paint as jsheridan suggests?


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

As long as the surface is properly prepped, solid stain is perfectly compatible over paint, as jsheridan states. lol.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

"Throw a solution of three parts water, one part bleach, with a little detergent, TSP if possible, together and apply it followed by rinsing." ---------- Be very careful mixing *other cleaning products *with common household bleach as there is usually a warning at the bottom specifically on this, eg- http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCategory.asp?idCategory=78 Wear eye protection, read the label......

Gary


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

GBR in WA said:


> "Throw a solution of three parts water, one part bleach, with a little detergent, TSP if possible, together and apply it followed by rinsing." ---------- Be very careful mixing *other cleaning products *with common household bleach as there is usually a warning at the bottom specifically on this, eg- http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCategory.asp?idCategory=78 Wear eye protection, read the label......
> 
> Gary


Gary, I read your recommendation. Interesting. I assume that prior to mixing any chemicals, a person would read a little bit of the label. Apparently not because, lately it seems the gene pool could use a bit of shock. Other than cleanser and ammonia, I haven't seen other conflicting items. The article states vinegar, don't know many uses for that combo. I'm not arguing your point or attacking, I just assume others are responsible. 
I do have an issue with the premise of the article. I know you weren't challenging bleach, but about being careful with mixing. It starts with the disclaimer by Clorox. Clorox doesn't manufacture laundry bleach to be used as a mildew cleaner for paint prep. But, since it was selling so popularly for that reason, they now make outdoor bleach, for that very purpose. The article is stating something very differently than my use for bleach. I'm not disinfecting mold infested home interiors where people will be living and breathing. My use for bleach is to remove mildew from painted surfaces for repainting, not a life threatening issue. And, I've never had a problem with regrowth when I've used in on bare wood. In that context, Clorox's response makes sense, they make general bleach for my purposes, not mold remediators, or other mold experts. They're avoiding lawsuits. Defining the different goals when using bleach is important because, according to the article, I, because of my recommendation, am someone who one should be wary of. As said, I know your only concern was mixing, not what I've expounded on. But, others will read that article and I wanted to differentiate. We don't need people going off hysterical about the effectiveness of bleach as a mildew cleaner for repainting purposes. Their children are not in danger. We already have enough hysteria with lead and VOCs. I can see the future now, Single Mom will have to hire a mold remediation firm with funny guys in space suits to remove the bit of mildew standing between her and a repainted hand railing. People with a vested interest create a hysteria when, coincidentally, they just happen to have the solution to that life threatening situation. Just saying, that's the way of the world today. 
Respectfully.


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