# Warped Butcher Block



## Tonyw3026? (Feb 20, 2018)

Has anyone had success flattening a warped butcher block counter top?

I bought some used kitchen cabinets with a 60"X24"X1.5" butcher block top which is warped about 3/8" across the width. It has never been screwed down and is completely unfinished.

Currently i have it sitting with the crown up and several heavy weights (about 200lb total) along the length. A Google search reveals all manner of creative solutions but I wonder if anyone on this forum has solved the same problem.

Thanks
Tony


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Tonyw3026? said:


> Has anyone had success flattening a warped butcher block counter top?
> 
> I bought some used kitchen cabinets with a 60"X24"X1.5" butcher block top which is warped about 3/8" across the width. It has never been screwed down and is completely unfinished.
> 
> ...


I've never done this, but one trick is to cut some "relief lines" in the bottom of the counter. where you want it to bend to straighten it out. Use a circular saw and obviously be very careful to not cut too deep, maybe 1/3rd of the way through. With the weights on top, this will allow the wood to flex enough to straighten it out.

Maybe someone who has actually done this will chime in.

Attach the counter top from below. I just posted some info on this in another thread. http://www.diychatroom.com/f15/diy-wood-countertops-over-formica-598289/










https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/how-to-install-butcher-block-countertop
.
.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

A _- router sled _- method is often recommended or on a piece the size of yours a person could be well acquainted and proficient with a hand plane by the time it was acceptable. If a hand p[lane is the choice I would recommend a - _Jointer Plane_ - but smaller planes will also work but more patients may be necessary..


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I've not done it.... but why not a belt sander...


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> I've not done it.... but why not a belt sander...


I would personally wait until I expended all my senior energy with a hand plane and then give it a royal screw up with my belt sander.:vs_laugh:


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I think it would be better to unwarp the top if possible - using the relief cut method Z mentioned.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

mark sr said:


> I think it would be better to unwarp the top if possible - using the relief cut method Z mentioned.


I've done that with large ply cabinet doors but I'd be a little concerned about cracking with solid glued. I suppose if it did crack anywhere it could be removed and the crack sawed out, jointed then re-glued.

Some relief shallow relief cuts may be necessary even if planing to flatten was used.


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## Tonyw3026? (Feb 20, 2018)

I have seen the groove cutting method mentioned and that is certainly a possibility. I guess it would still work if I stopped the grooves just short of the ends so they didn't show.

Since the warping is almost certainly caused by uneven moisture absorption I am wondering if there is a method that involves drying the convex side and/or adding moisture to the concave side. There is a YouTube video showing how to flatten a single board by using a heat gun on the convex side but it may be more difficult with a 24' wide laminated butcher block.

Tony


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

If it were mine I might just rip it into 9 equal width pieces, flip the center piece end for end and then flip the remaining each side if it in pairs, re-glue then flatten.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I think nothing is going to work. Relief cuts work on single piece wood. Your block is probably many small pieces and each piece and the glue joints may react differently. As noted, only thing that makes sense is plane the surface and hide the thinned profile with a trim once installed. Unless it is made with excellent wood, not worth the time. Routing makes it easier but guide must be precise and lot of sanding afterwards. Wood kitchen counter is also not a good idea. Finish is also easily damaged and you have to keep it dry always. Magazines are full of wood counter photos but not maintenance stories. Over the years, i read one, which was to keep it dry and keep it oiled.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

If you assume all the wood was equally dry when it was glued up it will return to center when both sides have the same moisture to the same depth. Kirfing the back does work and will allow it to be screwed down flat and can be hidden with another trim piece around the edges.


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## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

before you do any cutting try this. best if no finish is on either face.

place concave face down on the ground after a rain, when the ground is very moist, and the sun is strong in the sky. yes, you may have to wait for this condition. 

the ground will apply moisture to the dry concave side, and the sun will dry the expanded (from moisture) convex side. check it every half hour or so. I often thought of directing a fan toward the top face to speed up the convex surface drying process.

I find it best to over compensate a little, as it tends to go back when you bring it back inside. that thick may take a little time, maybe several sessions...


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## newtopchop (Dec 31, 2017)

Cutting into a ripe onion you say? Nope. It’s pulling out your prized cutting board only to find out that it has warped. Whether that cutting board is a generational hand-me-down from your great-grandma Sue who proclaimed the board was made from the original planks of the Mayflower i


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## Tonyw3026? (Feb 20, 2018)

Thanks for all the replies, I think I have solved the problem. I didn't mention that I don't need the full 24" width of the counter top so here is what I did.

Drilled four pairs of holes across the width 1" from the edge.
Cut 1/2" deep slots along the length of the bottom (convex) side about 1.5" apart.
Bolted four pieces of slotted steel angle across the convex side through the drilled holes.
Sprayed the concave side with water and gradually tightened the bolts.
The top quickly pulled flat.

When I removed the steel angles the top curved back slightly so when I install it I will screw shorter hidden angles underneath which should keep it flat. I will also varnish both top and bottom.

Tony


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

While varnish/poly is great for the underside, it would be better to use a food safe finish like one of these, 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/WATCO-16-f...MIr5j4z6vk2QIVTrnACh06YwYBEAQYASABEgIrW_D_BwE 
http://www.rockler.com/salad-bowl-f...MIr5j4z6vk2QIVTrnACh06YwYBEAQYAiABEgLMHfD_BwE


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## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

There's no need to use food-safe finish if the counter is not actually going to be used as a giant cutting board.

My counter is essentially a table top and I finished it with poly. Poly is a much better finish than "varnish", if that is what you actually used.

Re-apply a couple of fresh coats every 6 months or so and it will look great and last forever.
.
.


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## Tonyw3026? (Feb 20, 2018)

ZZZZZ said:


> There's no need to use food-safe finish if the counter is not actually going to be used as a giant cutting board.
> 
> My counter is essentially a table top and I finished it with poly. Poly is a much better finish than "varnish", if that is what you actually used.
> 
> ...


That's my situation exactly. Poly varnish is the way to go.

tony


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## Bob Carter (Sep 4, 2021)

Tonyw3026? said:


> Has anyone had success flattening a warped butcher block counter top?
> 
> I bought some used kitchen cabinets with a 60"X24"X1.5" butcher block top which is warped about 3/8" across the width. It has never been screwed down and is completely unfinished.
> 
> ...


This best and easiest way to fix a warped butcher block countertop is to place towels on top of the concave surface that is curled up and lay the towels across the surface so that the surface of the top is completely covered. Then, get a pitcher of purified water and pour the water on the towels evenly so that the towels are soaking wet. Let the towels rest on the top of the surface for 4-5 days. Continue to pour water on the towels as needed to keep them wet. The water will absorb into the wood and expand the wood so that the surface will return to its normal, flat shape, when it was made. After it flattens out, DO NOT cover the surface with a plastic table cloth. Allow the surface to 'breathe.' Make sure both sides of the table top are not covered. You want the moisture and humidity in the room to reach both sides of the table, so that it wont warp again. I actually did the above and my butcher block table returned to normal. DO NOT cut the table to make grooves on the surface. That would damage the table top and is totally unnecessary. Once the table is flattened out, make sure it is securely mounted to the island or cabinets and use supports or Corbels to keep the overhang from sagging. Always coat the top of the table with baby oil or mineral oil every 3 to 6 months to keep the top clean.


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