# do drywall panels have to meet on a stud?



## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

The bathroom I am building has one wall inset 3" off the XPS for running the piping for a Saniplus. Due to that the 16" spacing will not be accurate on two of the walls. Do I need to nail in some additional studs to make the panel ends meet on a stud? That will really screw up my insulation then won't it?


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

Insulation is easily cut.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not the perfect way but you can just add a 4 to 6" wide strip of wood behind the seam so there's a backing where it gets attached on both sides.
Anything will work, plywood, 1 X, 2 X 4 laying flat.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

joecaption said:


> Not the perfect way but you can just add a 4 to 6" wide strip of wood behind the seam so there's a backing where it gets attached on both sides.
> Anything will work, plywood, 1 X, 2 X 4 laying flat.


I can see toenailing 2x4 blocking flat I guess but nothing thinner and why not use the 2x4 blocking on edge?


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

dwcopple said:


> The bathroom I am building has one wall inset 3" off the XPS for running the piping for a Saniplus. Due to that the 16" spacing will not be accurate on two of the walls. Do I need to nail in some additional studs to make the panel ends meet on a stud? That will really screw up my insulation then won't it?


Facenail a 2x6 flat into the stud and toenail into the top plate and bottom shoe and your done.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

use backer board.... it is a taperedd panel made for drywall seams. This allows the seams to be pulled in so no "bump" is visible after compounding. The best way is to never place butt seams over a stud anyway. And with this you have full bay spacing for easy insulation installation.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

Bob Mariani said:


> use backer board.... it is a taperedd panel made for drywall seams. This allows the seams to be pulled in so no "bump" is visible after compounding. The best way is to never place butt seams over a stud anyway. And with this you have full bay spacing for easy insulation installation.


got a link for that product?


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Go to any professional drywall supply house. Or make your own. Use a piece of scrap 1/2 plywood about 48" long and 6" wide. glue a 1/4" wide 1/2" plywood strip to the outer edges. This provides a taper which will pull in the edges of the drywall at the center. You could even run a bead of caulking along the outer edges and let it dry over night. To install just hold it against one sheet of drywall that was installed and screw it tight. Now install the other piece. You will notice a slight bulge inward at the seam. so when you tape and add compound the joint is flat and not bulging out like a not pro would do.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Go *HERE* for instructions on making your own BUTT BOARDS.


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## kj6887 (Feb 19, 2012)

Not sure if I am missing something but unless it is a huge bathroom why not just hang your sheets horizontally and go from corner to corner ? Thats what I would do.


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

I may do that, but one corner will be durock or dens shield for tile for the corner shower. I was just concerned that I needed seems to meet on a stud. Two walls have 32" entry doors and the other two are the ones that will have backerboard for hanging the tile. Bathroom is 7'2" x 9'3" inside dimensions.


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## kj6887 (Feb 19, 2012)

Then to answer your question... yes there needs to be something there one way or another.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Seems to me like an extra stud and a cut batt is the easiest solution.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

Bob Mariani said:


> Go to any professional drywall supply house. Or make your own. Use a piece of scrap 1/2 plywood about 48" long and 6" wide. glue a 1/4" wide 1/2" plywood strip to the outer edges. This provides a taper which will pull in the edges of the drywall at the center. You could even run a bead of caulking along the outer edges and let it dry over night. To install just hold it against one sheet of drywall that was installed and screw it tight. Now install the other piece. You will notice a slight bulge inward at the seam. so when you tape and add compound the joint is flat and not bulging out like a not pro would do.


Bob,

All that work when you can just nail a 2x6 and be done with it, why??


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## dwcopple (Apr 1, 2012)

I've got a bunch of scrap 8' 1x4's. Can I just use a couple of those flat behind the seam?


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