# Framing stair knee wall...



## bparise (Oct 8, 2009)

Or, #4 would be to rebuild the the wall like #3 but further down. This, IMO, probably will work the best since it will have hardly no lateral movements and it would be easier to frame.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I think, when finished, #3 or #4 would look the best. But why would you build this as a rake on top of a wall? Why not build it all as one tall wall with a raked top?


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## bparise (Oct 8, 2009)

Willie T said:


> I think, when finished, #3 or #4 would look the best. But why would you build this as a rake on top of a wall? Why not build it all as one tall wall with a raked top?


That's what #4 aims to do without having to rebuild the entire wall from the floor up. I *could* just rebuild the entire wall and rake the tops of the studs but that would take some extra work on my part (having to maneuver around the stars to nail the studs into the bottom plate). If it's only a matter of aesthetics then I will probably do #4.

Also, with the pseudo-raked wall i probably need to have fireblocking since the stairs traverses 2 floors, right?

Also, is a single top plate for this wall adequate? With the let-in brace it is really sturdy, but not sure if the inspector will demand it or not.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

bparise said:


> That's what #4 aims to do without having to rebuild the entire wall from the floor up. I *could* just rebuild the entire wall and rake the tops of the studs but that would take some extra work on my part (having to maneuver around the stars to nail the studs into the bottom plate). If it's only a matter of aesthetics then I will probably do #4.
> 
> Also, with the pseudo-raked wall i probably need to have fireblocking since the stairs traverses 2 floors, right?
> 
> Also, is a single top plate for this wall adequate? With the let-in brace it is really sturdy, but not sure if the inspector will demand it or not.


Not sure how much the open stairwell wall will require fireblocking, and if so, exactly where.

Termite did an EXCELLENT series of articles on fire blocking in the "How To" section you might check out. I don't think there's much he missed.

I would double plate only for the reason of the possibility of just a single plate developing a warp over time. Two oppositely crowned 2xs eliminate that.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Number 3 and 4 encroach into the lower stairwell, narrowing it by 3-1/2". (Minimum 36"net/finished) It appears your top riser is 1-1/2" shorter than the others, did you remove the tread thickness from the bottom riser before cutting? Your risers appear to be more than 7-3/4", may want to verify that with your local building department. It's just so easy to trip on stairs, is why I mentioned it. Or... I may need to clean my glasses....
Be safe, Gary


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## bparise (Oct 8, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> Number 3 and 4 encroach into the lower stairwell, narrowing it by 3-1/2". (Minimum 36"net/finished) It appears your top riser is 1-1/2" shorter than the others, did you remove the tread thickness from the bottom riser before cutting? Your risers appear to be more than 7-3/4", may want to verify that with your local building department. It's just so easy to trip on stairs, is why I mentioned it. Or... I may need to clean my glasses....
> Be safe, Gary


I actually just removed the outer most stringer and simply extended that wall up. The stringer was sitting on a 2x4 top plate. The stairwell is 39" wide.

The treads you see are 2x8" that the builder put in for temp steps. I have a 8"/10" rise/run so the I got stock 2x12 with 3/4 ply risers to be put in this week. This will give me a nice 1 1/4" nosing to wrap the carpet around and 1 1/2" of spce on each side for drywall and skirting.

Will post pictures tomorrow... battery in camera is dead


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