# Polycrylic streaky!!



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Polycrylic (colored varnish) is the most difficult finish I have ever used---

Any lap marks or thick spots in the finish are darker than the surrounding area---

Next time---use a regular wood stain like Minwax ---then a clear coat on top of that---

A brush on Polly or water based poly would be my choice---I use a lot of wipe on poly---often as the base coat for a brush on--or as the finish coat if I want a hand rubbed look.

Good luck with the colored varnish---I hate that product---very difficult to get a fine finish using it.---Mike---


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## spraygunn (Nov 14, 2010)

Hey Cindy,
On hot days like we’ve had acrylic finishes dry extremely fast especially succeeding coats after you’ve applied your first. The only suggestion I can offer is add a little Flotrol by Flood. I can’t say I’ve tried it in acrylic varnishes, however it works great in latex paints. I would say to add a little Flotrol to a small amount of Polycrylic (just a sample amount) and see how it reacts. It should slow down the drying time allowing you to a little more time to work it.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I apologize---I was thinking of "Poly Shades" (colored Poly) 

I'm not sure what Polycrilic is---must be a brand name---sorry--Mike---


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## CindyBechtel (Jun 24, 2012)

Sorry, I wasn't very specific. Polycrylic is a clear coat made by minwax. I applied over paint. I will try flotrol next time. But in the meantime, I have 3 pieces of furniture that are streaky and they are supposed to be in a trade show this weekend!! I'm slightly panicked. Is there anything I can do to correct the streaks? I've read about rubbing out finishes with steel wool or sand paper. Ive never used the rubbing out technique. Could that be an option to get a smooth finish? If so, would I need to apply another layer of clear coat afterward?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Personaly I'd ever apply a sealer over any paint.
Use a tougher paint like epoxy or enamel and no sealer is needed.


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## CindyBechtel (Jun 24, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Personaly I'd ever apply a sealer over any paint.
> Use a tougher paint like epoxy or enamel and no sealer is needed.


I completely agree. I've experimented lately with water based latex enamel from Sherwin Williams and the durability was an amazing difference. Unfortunately, I used regular latex in satin on these pieces so felt it needed a top coat.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

Another possibility is that rarely but not unheard of- high humidity will cause it. 
Getting it out of a clear coat might be tough.

BTW- also next time try Zar Ultra Max poly. easiest working clear I know of, and it's tough. 
I think you can get it at Ace Hdwre among other places.


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## spraygunn (Nov 14, 2010)

Cindy,
Give it a light sand using some 220 paper and watch the edges so that you don’t cut through. Then apply a coupe coats of the Polycrylic with some Flotrol. The more you build up the millage the deeper the finish will appear and hide the streakiness. I’m assuming streakiness means brush marks. I finished a cradle with four coats of Polycrylic and it looked fantastic.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Yes,--Light sanding with 220 or 4 o (0000) steel wool--then a tack rag (sticky cloth) to remove any dust then another coat--the water based polys need to be applied a little heavier than you might think in order for it to flow together before it dries.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

You can always tell when a floor is done with Polycrylic or any water based Poly. If you slide a piece of furniture you will now have some nice scratches.


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## CindyBechtel (Jun 24, 2012)

Thanks for the tip on zar ultra max poly, will definitely try it out. 
today, I sanded in between coats and now have 3 layers of polycrylic on. Looks better but not perfect. So I headed back to Sherwin Williams. 
They suggested sanding then applying latex enamel with a sponge roller. This would give a smooth finish without having to apply a clear coat. They also added a floating agent, assuming flotrol or similar, to make it more workable. I tried it out on top of the desk, as it looked particularly bad. After 2 coats, sanding in between, there are roller marks. I was careful to not overlap much or use too much paint, and went in a straight up and down motion. The guy at Sw said if I wasn't happy with product to bring back and he would replace with oil based enamel. I do have a sprayer. Should I try that with the latex enamel or go get the oil enamel? This may be the longest, most costly, debockle of a project I've ever experienced! Any input is much appreciated!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I feel bad for you----Painting requires some experience to learn how different paints flow and set.

If you have roller marks--I suspect that you are going to slow---

I wish I was there(or one of the painters)

You need to --first get the paint on the surface---then quickly stroke the entire surface flat before the paint 'flashes'---this way the entire surface is wet at the same time --and can flow together without brush strokes or roller marks---

I'm not good at describing the process--perhaps another painter can make it more understandable.


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## Brushjockey (Mar 8, 2011)

I have actually found no good use for a foam roller- at all.

What mike is describing is my preferred method of doing larger flats- rolling it on just to get the material there faster, then with a very light touch "tipping " or "backbrushing" in long strokes to smooth out. I think roller stipple in a enamel or clear finish looks poor. 
But these new finishes are not easy- I also prefer a company called XIM 's latex extender to flotrol- like grease for your brush. Sometimes just a tiny bit of water also. This is where experience with the material comes in. 
It is a feel thing.


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## CindyBechtel (Jun 24, 2012)

I was rolling slow. Think I'm so paranoid and scared of another mistake was trying to be too precise. Plus, besides the roller marks, I wasn't thrilled with the stippling. So....I rolled, then tip brushed a corner for a tester and it looks pretty good....I finally see hope! Thanks everyone for your help. Through it I have learned one thing... I know way less about paint than I thought I did!! Will update tomorrow with developments. Hopefully positive


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Be fast---get that paint on quick--and as fast as you can draw it flat with the brush--and then leave it alone--if it's wet enough and all fresh--the finish will 'flow flat'.

There is a reason that pro painter can get a good finish---years of practice and getting to know each different finish and the tricks needed to get it to work.


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