# Replacing drip edge



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not so sure that's going to work for a bunch of reasons.
What your trying to replace it with will be close to what you already have
Gutter was just installed to low.
Should have been installed up under the drip cap.
Rolled roofing while the cheapest, shortest lasting roofing I would have ever installed should have been installed out over that drip cap.
Want to cheap out? A simple strip of aluminum coil stock slid up under the roofing and laid over the gutter will work.


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

You are far better off doing as Joe mentioned and just fixing the gutter to drip edge issue. Alum coil stock from HD or white bonderized sheet metal strips. You just need to tuck it up under the existing drip edge and have it go into the gutter 2". Pretty simple fix really.

You may even be able to just rehang the existing gutter and tuck the back of it up under the existing drip edge. This would be my first choice. Depending on the length of this gutter, I would get rid of that HD stuff and put a 5" K style in there. 

Avoid dealing with the changing the drip edge, you could be opening a can of worms. If you damage the roofing you will end up henrying the heck out of it. This surely will need replacing sooner rather than later. Don't touch the roof, this will turn into that job you wish you didn't start.


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## aminus21 (Dec 24, 2009)

AndyWRS said:


> You are far better off doing as Joe mentioned and just fixing the gutter to drip edge issue. Alum coil stock from HD or white bonderized sheet metal strips. You just need to tuck it up under the existing drip edge and have it go into the gutter 2". Pretty simple fix really.
> 
> You may even be able to just rehang the existing gutter and tuck the back of it up under the existing drip edge. This would be my first choice. Depending on the length of this gutter, I would get rid of that HD stuff and put a 5" K style in there.
> 
> Avoid dealing with the changing the drip edge, you could be opening a can of worms. If you damage the roofing you will end up henrying the heck out of it. This surely will need replacing sooner rather than later. Don't touch the roof, this will turn into that job you wish you didn't start.


Thanks for the advice guys. I had a roofer come out today and he wanted to install 3" aluminum on top of the current rolled roof, then install another layer of rolled roof on top of that..but from what I'm understanding that sounds like overkill. 

I see what you guys are saying. One thing though, I tried to pull back the rolled roof a little to see if I can get some aluminum coil stock under the rolled roof, but it doesn't want to pull back without peeeling and bubbling. I think I'm going to try what you're suggesting Andy. If I remove the gutter, and then bend the drip edge out, and then re-install the gutter under the drip edge, I think it should work? I do plan on changing all the gutters in the coming year or two, but would like to have a sound solution until then. I think this diagram illustrates that I need to do vs what I have going on now? 



















Another question, how far under the drip edge should I install the gutter? As much as I can get?


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

I wouldn't bend it out to the point you bend it. Hopefully there is enough play at the bottom edge of the DE that you can just slide the back of the gutter up behind it. 1/2" would be fine, but a 1/4" would work also...just needs to be behind it.

The pics sort of represent what you have and what you should have. We don't use that type of DE out here but the idea is the same, gutter behind the drip edge.


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## hardtroofing (Feb 4, 2015)

make custom drip to fit


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

You could go over the existing drip edge with a longer faced one. Stripping it in like the roofer suggested is the proper way to do it. Not over kill in the least bit.


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## aminus21 (Dec 24, 2009)

I removed the gutter. As you guys pointed out, the drip edge was installed incorrectly as it was *behind* the gutter (like the image above with the red circle), instead of the gutter being installed behind the drip edge. The previous installer also used a boatload of silicone to dry between the drip edge and the gutter, I guess to dry to direct the water to the gutter. That's the black line that's on the drip edge. 

After removing the gutter, I bent out the drip edge a little as there wasnt any slack for me to be able to lift it up and install the gutter behind it and I also did not want water dripping onto the rafters (it was supposed to rain yesterday). Now, I plan to replace 2 feet of the 4"x10" rafter that is all water damaged (pictured below). I'd also like to install some sort of fascia to protect the ends of these rafters. After that, I plan on re-installing these gutters, and later on maybe next year I'll get some one-piece K-style 5" gutters installed around the house. A couple questions:

1) I would need something ~ 12" wide for the fascia, so I'm thinking 1"x12"? Is that okay? 

2) Since the drip edge is already installed and I will not be removing the existing drip edge, I will try to bud the fascia as high up as possible, but it will not go all the way to the plywood sheathing. Is that okay?

3) There are holes every 3 feet in the drip edge, where the gutter was screwed in. I would assume I should fill them. What should I use?

I'm in Socal and it rained yesterday after I did this. The water dripped off the bent drip edge and did not touch the rafters like it was doing before. This made me feel like I accomplished something. Thanks guys for the continuous advice. :thumbsup:










I know this isn't very aesthetically appealing, but it's in the backyard where you can't really see it unless the gutter is removed. What I care about now is more form over function, so as long as the water does not get into the rafters I'll be happy. We may do a big remodel in the years to come, so we can make it look pretty after that.


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

If you were to install a fascia board on that, you would need to cut the existing rafters back the depth of the board. I wouldn't bother, just install the gutter directly to the rafters. If your really worried, a small piece of aluminum wrapping the end of the rafter would suffice.


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

Exposed rafter tails are pretty common around here, you don't need a fascia. The fascia, in fact, would complicate the whole thing as Pat mentioned. 

I wouldn't fill in those holes, just hang the gutter so its under the existing drip edge and if needed, add a piece of flashing behind those holes.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

That picture is not based on reality. Roofing is usually done first then the gutters to avoid damaging the gutters. The gutter brackets usually prevent the drip edge from overlapping the gutter.
The roofing should have come in 1/3 into the gutter. Also the roofing cut off with the edge can allow the water to wick back under the roof.
The rafter ends should have been flashed. Just condensation and splash off draining down the gutter will rot out the ends.


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