# 4.5ft Drywall sheets



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

You will want to use them anywhere the ceiling is over 8'. Depending n the height you may only need one sheet 54" and the other sheet 48".


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I would just get what you need depending on the height of the wall. If the wall is shorter you're going to be cutting long strips of a couple inches off anyway. What heights are your walls? If there's a soffit against a wall that wall will probably be able to use two 48" sheets.


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## patgmac (Mar 25, 2015)

Thanks. So I'll just get 4.5's where needed. I do have some walls with soffit's, some others with framed steppings (not sure if I'm calling that the right thing). 
What about length? Should i also get the just the specific lengths I need everywhere? It is a walk-in basement so I can fit any length in the door but I'll be installing by myself with a drywall lift. Some online estimators say to just figure out the sq footage of everything that needs drywall and divide by the sheet size you plan on buying. Should I get more specific that that and figure out each wall individually?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I drew out a map of each wall to be more efficient. Why get two 12 footers for a 20 foot wall? You could just get a 12 and an 8. Figure out whatever will give you the least waste and the least amount of joints. I went a little further and figured out the pieces that would be left over could go an another wall or a soffit and then ordered accordingly. You also never know when you will mess up a cut or break a board so a little extra isn't always a bad thing. If you have an easy/cheap means of getting drywall to your house then you can just go purchase more.


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## MT Stringer (Oct 19, 2008)

Handling a 12 footer single handidly could be a bear. I know it would for me.

I guess I have been living under a rock. Never heard of 4 1/2 foot wide drywall. But then again, all I have ever used is 4x8 foot sheets.


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## patgmac (Mar 25, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> Handling a 12 footer single handidly could be a bear. I know it would for me.
> 
> I guess I have been living under a rock. Never heard of 4 1/2 foot wide drywall. But then again, all I have ever used is 4x8 foot sheets.


HD only has them as special order. I found a local building supply that stocks them, but only in 12' lengths. Their prices are very close to HD. I just need to get a board count so I get can get a delivery price.


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## patgmac (Mar 25, 2015)

mikegp said:


> I drew out a map of each wall to be more efficient. Why get two 12 footers for a 20 foot wall? You could just get a 12 and an 8. Figure out whatever will give you the least waste and the least amount of joints. I went a little further and figured out the pieces that would be left over could go an another wall or a soffit and then ordered accordingly. You also never know when you will mess up a cut or break a board so a little extra isn't always a bad thing. If you have an easy/cheap means of getting drywall to your house then you can just go purchase more.


I'm working on doing that now. I'm not sure I'm going to worry about having extra. Got a bunch of neighbors who will be finishing their basements so I can offload. I want to get everything I can in the first shipment because I can only fit 8ft sheets in the minivan.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

If you want to deal with a lot of butt joints, be my guest. I'd stick to 8 footers(12 footers if you can get them in the basement) and install them horizontally on the wall. The horizontal joints will all be tapered joints.


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## MT Stringer (Oct 19, 2008)

patgmac said:


> I'm working on doing that now. I'm not sure I'm going to worry about having extra. Got a bunch of neighbors who will be finishing their basements so I can offload. I want to get everything I can in the first shipment because I can only fit 8ft sheets in the minivan.


I swear my nickname should be "OneBoardShort". :surprise:
Keep that in mind when you make your order. :devil3:


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## patgmac (Mar 25, 2015)

Ron6519 said:


> If you want to deal with a lot of butt joints, be my guest. I'd stick to 8 footers(12 footers if you can get them in the basement) and install them horizontally on the wall. The horizontal joints will all be tapered joints.



I think you misunderstood. I don't plan on getting any 8 footers in my main order. Was just pointing out that if I need to run to HD for extra, I can only fit 8ft. 

I can fit any size in the basement. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## mikemark8808 (Aug 27, 2015)

To me it sounds like you want to hang the drywall horizontally on the wall and compensate for tall areas. There is one problem I foresee.  If the edge where the wall and the ceiling is slanted there will be large gaps you will have to cut and adjust for, which is what people have been saying. This will prove pretty difficult with a drywall lift and a 4.5'x12' in your face lol..

It is not a sin to hang drywall vertically. You can buy 4x10' sheets of drywall and cut them off accordingly. I did this with my living room with 9' ceilings and it looks great. Plus you should end up with very little butt joints, but just have to do the beveled joints perfectly (maybe 3-4 coats of mud on them so they won't be visible). If you insist on special ordering the 4.5' wide drywall, they'll be more expensive, heavier, and will they even fit in your drywall lift?? Sounds painful to me if you don't have a helper as it sounds like.

I do agree that laying drywall horizontally adds strength, but in this case vertical installation may be the more practical way of doing it.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

There is a third option. Fit a 4x8 or 12 to the ceiling and do the same on the floor. Then fill the gap with a strip of 3/8 (do not use any factory edges) and then mud the big seam.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Use the 12'er any place you can. Go around and figure how many 12' pieces you need and how many 8' pieces you will need, and how many 54" wide pieces you will need and buy accordingly. And yes you can haul 12'ers in your van. Slide them up as far as you can then tie the back doors against the hangover.

Some of the other suggestions would work but would be about 10 times more work. Couple suggestions, don't get the lightweight drywall, creates more problems than it solves. And when you hang make sure your seams don't line up.


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## patgmac (Mar 25, 2015)

ToolSeeker said:


> Use the 12'er any place you can. Go around and figure how many 12' pieces you need and how many 8' pieces you will need, and how many 54" wide pieces you will need and buy accordingly. And yes you can haul 12'ers in your van. Slide them up as far as you can then tie the back doors against the hangover.
> 
> Some of the other suggestions would work but would be about 10 times more work. Couple suggestions, don't get the lightweight drywall, creates more problems than it solves. And when you hang make sure your seams don't line up.



Would you mind clarifying why lightweight drywall shouldn't be used? What problems does it cause? My understanding is it's the cool kid in town nowadays, obviously because it's lighter weight but also because 1/2" can be used on ceilings with sag. Admittedly I haven't researched issues with lightweight but haven't stumbled on any issues either. Looking at my local HD stock, it doesn't look like they even stock any non-lightweight rock other than fire or mold stuff. 

Here's what I have so far on the estimate: 
Basement Drywall Estimate

This is the brand the supplier carries: American Gypsum


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## patgmac (Mar 25, 2015)

mikemark8808 said:


> If you insist on special ordering the 4.5' wide drywall, they'll be more expensive, heavier, and will they even fit in your drywall lift?? Sounds painful to me if you don't have a helper as it sounds like.
> 
> I do agree that laying drywall horizontally adds strength, but in this case vertical installation may be the more practical way of doing it.


The 4.5' isn't a special order item from the building supplier I plan on using, but it is from HD. It's actually a bit cheaper per sq ft than 4x12.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Hard to score and snap clean.
Does not hold screws well.
VERY easy to overdrive the screws which then lose their holding power. And later screw pops.
VERY easy to dent.
paper comes loose after a cut.
Now have paint problems with it. Looks good when first painted but over time showing streaks.
I know it's all the box stores sell now because people want it because it's a little lighter. In my opinion it's a bad product. I can go like 10 miles to get lightweight or 26 I think it is to get regular. I go the 26. 

Why would I not want a lighter sheet? That's why I tried them, but after so many call backs I said no more. In fact 2 drywall suppliers I use have quit caring it because of so many problems and complaints, so it's not just me.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I used 4.5 x 12 on my own and I didn't have issues. It wasn't fun, but it's doable. I used a regular lift and it went well. 

I believe pros complain about high shoulders on lightweight. From what I gather that means the edge right before the taper is a little higher than the surrounding area. I did notice this in many spots on mine. It makes it harder to finish the joints.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

It's also called "cupping". Google it and you'll see.


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