# First time removing Popcorn, Help



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

Ok I decided to save a little cash and do the popcorn ceiling myself. This is what I have now (see photo). What is the best way to handle this?


----------



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

What's the desired end result? Texturing goes a long way toward covering defects so whether you plan to do so makes a difference in how meticulous you need to be.

I would sand anything rough (can't tell if maybe you have some rough edges there), prime any exposed gypsum with Zinsser Gardz, skim coat with joint compound, prime and then you're ready either for texture or paint.


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

Paint, after popcorn ceiling no more texturing. I have knockdown in another house and when there is a problem you can't match it. Beside part of the house is already flat paint.


----------



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

OK, my steps stand as to how I think you should proceed. Just keep in mind paint often makes blemishes in the surface more obvious, not less so. In other words, you have to have it looking pretty good before applying paint. Indirect light sources do a pretty good job showing the imperfections.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Is that a pic of your ceiling after removing the popcorn?

If so....

I'm guessing you have made a couple of passes with a wet rag already?

I'd use mud and take care of any bad spots.

Then a couple of coats of primer...if any bad spots show up...fix....then paint.

With each pass of the roller, you add a 'little' texture to the it.


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

ddawg16 said:


> Is that a pic of your ceiling after removing the popcorn?
> 
> If so....
> 
> ...


I have not made any passes with a wet rag. Should I do that prior to or after repairs? I am NOT going to texture the ceiling.


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

I am planning to rent a power drywall sander. Is there a requirement to sand the skim coat within a certain time period after it is set or is there no time limit for sanding after it sets. I didn’t want to skim coat a room rent a sander then take it back and then skim coat another room and rent a sander again. I wanted to do the whole house then rent the sander and sand the whole house at one time.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ricojob said:


> I have not made any passes with a wet rag. Should I do that prior to or after repairs? I am NOT going to texture the ceiling.


If it's typical popcorn, the stuff basically melts with water. A rag or even a floor mop (sponge type) works great at cleaning it off.

So, yes, do that before you do anything else. Its a couple of hours work, but you will have a much better idea of what repairs, if any, you need to make.

Power sander? Why?


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Or....maybe consider ceiling paper? It's kind of a British thing (my wife is English), but you basically apply textured paper to the ceiling.


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

ddawg16 said:


> If it's typical popcorn, the stuff basically melts with water. A rag or even a floor mop (sponge type) works great at cleaning it off.
> 
> So, yes, do that before you do anything else. Its a couple of hours work, but you will have a much better idea of what repairs, if any, you need to make.
> 
> Power sander? Why?


I have read and seeing youtube video it shows that a power sander cuts the time in half and it has a vacuum hose on it so it cuts down on the drywall dust.


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Ricojob said:


> I have read and seeing youtube video it shows that a power sander cuts the time in half and it has a vacuum hose on it so it cuts down on the drywall dust.



Probably does, but being hard headed and cheap, I opened one window, put a fan in another so the air was pulled through, and then used my palm sander.


Primed, looked at the ceiling with a light at an angle, used sheetrock mud to skim the bad areas, sanded them a bit, checked with the light again, and then painted with ceiling white.

Smooth as a ...... :smile:


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

ktkelly said:


> Probably does, but being hard headed and cheap, I opened one window, put a fan in another so the air was pulled through, and then used my palm sander.
> 
> 
> Primed, looked at the ceiling with a light at an angle, used sheetrock mud to skim the bad areas, sanded them a bit, checked with the light again, and then painted with ceiling white.
> ...


That would work if I only had one room to do but I am doing the whole house plus I am removing wallpaper.


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

Is there a time limit for sanding after joint compound sets (skim coat)?


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

You do need to let it dry...

I waited until the next day, but only because I'm lazy, and it was in a "great room".


----------



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

Joint compound dries so you can sand or use a wet sponge for quite a long time after applying; way longer than others in the house would let you let it sit


----------



## jkk (Mar 28, 2010)

Ricojob said:


> What is the best way to handle this?


I just did 1400 sq ft of popcorn removal. You might be already done but if not ... 

Water only works if the popcorn is not painted as the water has to permeate the popcorn in order to release it from ceiling. I used a 2 gallon pump sprayer to apply water. I sprayed water, waited a few minutes, sprayed again and then scraped with 6" drywall knife. You'll need to experiment with how much water to use and how often to apply. My flooring was removed so i didn't care if water dripped off ceiling. A lot of popcorn came off easy, some took extra water and then some required vigorous scraping that left drywalll damaged that looked exavtly like your photo. 

I used my Porter Cable drywall sander with 80 grit on those spots and it worked fast and great!!! I sealed the bad areas with Gardz. I actually used the sander on most of the ceiling as the builder wouldn't have finished the ceiling smooth since popcorn covers tons of dings, bad taping, etc. These sanders are most awesome if you're going to do drywall work.

After popcorn removal, mudding the holes and taped seams, instead of applying the next mud coat I applied drywall primer because as ddawg16 said, paint makes defects show, assuming lighting is sufficient. You can see and fix/prime the bad spots and then paint. 

One issue - applying too much water might cause the drywall to sag, especially if it's 1/2" on 24" centers.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Gardz is you friend.


----------



## Marty Gordon (Jul 13, 2016)

I would skim coat it and make it smooth. Texture is kinda out of style these days, but also, if you have a leak or have to cut in to it for some reason, it's not easy to blend back in the patch.


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

Ok, I skim coated my first room using a roller and a Magic Trowel. I don’t think it came out to good. Should I put another coat on first and then sand it or should I sand it and then put another coat on and sand again after that coat? I don’t know why I have these spot that did not fill in. Maybe the skim coat is too thick? I am thinking of just using a 12 inch trowel to apply the next coat and take it off with the trowel or the Magic Trowel.


----------



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

What's a magic trowel?


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

stick\shift said:


> What's a magic trowel?


----------



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

Ugh. I couldn't even watch the whole video


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

Since it was my first time trying skim coating, I thought I would give it a try. Any suggestions now?


----------



## Ricojob (May 4, 2012)

Ok so I am changing up, I got a Hawk so I would not have to keep climbing up and down for mud and I think it will be easier to hold than a pan. I have both I am going to see which is best for me. I have a 12” or 14” inch knife (don’t remember which it is). I am using pre-mixed USG Plus-3 light weight Joint Compound because I could not find the topping compound and I am adding a little water.
https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...unds/usg-sheetrock-plus-3-joint-compound.html
When I apply the mud and then take it off. Should it be thin enough to see the drywall under there while wet or should it be thick enough to be opaque and look like a coat of joint compound?
I believe I applied it too thick in places with the roller.


----------

