# Best "wet edge" painting technique?



## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

I painted our family room about 4 years ago. I checked out advice online and watched a number of YouTube videos to see if I could pick up some better painting tips and techniques.

At the time, there was a lot on using "W" or "reverse N" patterns with a roller to cover sections of wall quickly while maintaining a wet edge to minimize the appearance of unevenness and roller strokes after the paint dried.

I have to admit that when the daylight shines in through our glass panel back door along the 12' long family room wall that is perpendicular to the door, it is pretty obvious the paint finish is not even (lighter and heavier in some areas, and some hints of roller strokes).

Since we bought the house about 10 years ago, I have always been impressed about the paint job the house came with - every single interior wall in the house was perfectly smooth and even to the eye, as far as the paint finish goes, no matter what angle and in what light you looked at it. Definitely a pro job.

Painting is one of the DIY things I really don't like to do, but I was at least hoping to do a reasonably passable job. I've seen in some recent Painting forum topics the comments about how much faster drying the current paint formulations are, and a general negative attitude toward the "W" and similar roller techniques. So, I'm here to try to get the best firsthand advice.

(BTW, the last time out a couple of years ago when updating the paint color of our master bedroom, I picked up the tip of using a 5 gal bucket with a roller screen and pole extensions and it really sped up the job. That tip was a winner and a keeper.)

Bonus question: I will be doing most of the work alone, so what's the best advice on cutting in along the ceiling, doors, windows, etc. on how much to do before getting back to the roller to roll over it before the cut-in paint dries? I used to like to do the cut-in on a whole wall at a time to keep from switching back and forth between brush work and roller work, but all this talk about "faster drying paints now" has me wondering if that is still a good idea.

Thanks.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

The faster drying paints actually give you an advantage on your cut-ins. You can cut-in a whole room and let the cut-ins DRY before rolling. In times past, you had to cut-in a wall and then roll that wall before moving on to the next wall. 

As far as technique, there's no magic. It's just a matter of moving along at a quick pace. Do a wall at a time. Many DIYers will stop for a few minutes in the middle of a wall to check their phone, go to the bathroom, whatever and end up with a lap mark/shadow where they left off and restarted. Up and down.......2 or 3 foot sections at a time. No "N", no "W" just up and down the wall.


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## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

Interesting....I guess I always assumed that if the idea is to keep a wet edge while rolling to eliminate roller end lines, then that would be the goal too to roll over the brush cut-ins while that paint was still wet.

But I guess if you're careful enough to roll over the cut-ins (after they've dried) to within in an inch or so of the door/window/baseboard trim, then you really don't mind a "line" that close to the trim. Is that the idea?

So you're saying that people in the past rolled over the cut-ins while still wet, although they would have preferred to roll over them when dry, only because it would have taken too long with the older paints to wait for the cut-ins to dry? If that's what you're saying, I learned something new today. Thanks.


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

Have you ever tried adding Floetrol?


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## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

No, I haven't. I've seen it but I always thought it was an additive for pros who were spraying.

However, given that better paints are now
in the $40/gal range and higher, I'm not opposed to paying a few bucks more for the Floetrol if it will really help with the application and final appearance.


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

DIYusually said:


> No, I haven't. I've seen it but I always thought it was an additive for pros who were spraying.
> 
> However, given that better paints are now
> in the $40/gal range and higher, I'm not opposed to paying a few bucks more for the Floetrol if it will really help with the application and final appearance.


It's certainly commonly used for spraying, but works for brushing and rolling as well. It's kind of a "crutch" for us non-pros :wink2:


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

Work a system. Left to right. Roller facing in the same direction. Always finish with a down stroke. For each time you load the roller move over 18 inches and make a new stripe. Then use a few passes up and down to pull that left back into the wet paint. Don't let the roller get too dry. Go for flat paint.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

"Interesting....I guess I always assumed that if the idea is to keep a wet edge while rolling to eliminate roller end lines, then that would be the goal too to roll over the brush cut-ins while that paint was still wet."

That's old school thinking and you can still do that with some paints; however, the quick set up of the premium paints will make that difficult. Your roller will actually "pull off" some of the paint that's drying from your cut-in. The leveling capabilities of today's premium paints is what makes it possible to do all the cut-ins in a room, first. You will have to experiment. Processes that work for ColorPlace paint at Wal-Mart won't work with Aura from Benjamin Moore.

P.S. Check the labels on your paint can about the use of Floetrol. It works for most paint, but, if I'm not mistaken, Benjamin Moore paints require a different kind of extender.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Gymschu said:


> "Interesting....I guess I always assumed that if the idea is to keep a wet edge while rolling to eliminate roller end lines, then that would be the goal too to roll over the brush cut-ins while that paint was still wet."
> 
> That's old school thinking and you can still do that with some paints; however, the quick set up of the premium paints will make that difficult. Your roller will actually "pull off" some of the paint that's drying from your cut-in. The leveling capabilities of today's premium paints is what makes it possible to do all the cut-ins in a room, first. You will have to experiment. Processes that work for ColorPlace paint at Wal-Mart won't work with Aura from Benjamin Moore.
> 
> ...


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

mathmonger said:


> Work a system. Left to right. Roller facing in the same direction. Always finish with a down stroke. For each time you load the roller move over 18 inches and make a new stripe. Then use a few passes up and down to pull that left back into the wet paint. Don't let the roller get too dry. Go for flat paint.


This will not work with a lot of the newer paints they dry to fast. And flat paint is really a dirt catcher that is pretty much unwashable. I would and do not recommend anything under a matte finish. To me flat walls always look dull and in need of paint.


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## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

No worries about a flat paint - we're looking at something in the "Satin" to "Low Lustre" range.

ToolSeeker, if Mathmonger's suggested painting method won't work because today's paint "dry too fast," what method have you had good results with that you would recommend?


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

DIYusually said:


> No worries about a flat paint - we're looking at something in the "Satin" to "Low Lustre" range.
> 
> ToolSeeker, if Mathmonger's suggested painting method won't work because today's paint "dry too fast," what method have you had good results with that you would recommend?


I'm kind of curious about that myself. Which paint are you using that dries so fast you can't even backroll 18 inches? 

I don't necessarily recommend a flat finish. That's personal preference as far as I'm concerned. But a lower sheen will make it easier to get a more uniform appearance.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I'm curious as well, Toolseeker. I've been rolling it out like math monger for a long, long time.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

The 2 that comes to mind immediately are Aura and Breakthrough There are probably others but these dry so quick that by leaving an 18" strip then trying to fill it in the edges are drying by the time you get the center filled in. I know these 2 paints are extreme but as I said they are the first that came to mind. Also realize that as painters you are most likely quicker than someone who has limited paint experience. I have never used Breakthrough on walls but keeping a wet edge with Aura can be a PITA.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

With aura you MUST cut in first and then do the field due to how heavy the paint is and how fast it dries. Counter intuitive to old time painters....but the way it goes. Else as you roll over the edging the wet on the roller will pick up the mostly dry from the edge and make a mess. Ron


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> The 2 that comes to mind immediately are Aura and Breakthrough There are probably others but these dry so quick that by leaving an 18" strip then trying to fill it in the edges are drying by the time you get the center filled in. I know these 2 paints are extreme but as I said they are the first that came to mind. Also realize that as painters you are most likely quicker than someone who has limited paint experience. I have never used Breakthrough on walls but keeping a wet edge with Aura can be a PITA.


Wow. What is the technique in that case? I haven't used either. I think I'd have lines from the edge of my roller all over the place is there is no chance to go back and smooth it out.


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## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

Thanks for the info, Ron. I guess I do fit into that "old school, old timer" category, ha ha.

I'm actually planning on using something from Benjamin Moore's lines below Aura - Regal Select or Ben. Do you know if they also act the same way, so I can plan to adjust my painting technique?


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

mathmonger said:


> Wow. What is the technique in that case? I haven't used either. I think I'd have lines from the edge of my roller all over the place is there is no chance to go back and smooth it out.



Just don't start so far out. The working dry to wet mantra isn't holding true all the time anymore. 

I pretty much use the exact technique you describe, except leaving out the space between sets. The second dip goes right by the first, or a few inches away at most. Trying to put the material on 9 inches or more from where it's supposed to go, then moving it there with the roller can easily overwork some modern acrylics and lead to less than optimal flow. 

Closer spacing of your dips, and less pressure applied to the roller, can improve film build and cut down on roller lines. 


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## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

Jmayspaint: I will try your technique Saturday. I'm trying to match some moderate orange peel texture on the top half of my walls where the original paint is still intact.

The Benjamin Moore guy recommended a half synthetic/half lambswool 1/2" nap roller to try to get the same orange peel texture on the bottom half of my walls which is neely hung and mudded drywall. Any thoughts on the roller recommendation?

(BTW, I'm thinking that after I put the drywall primer/sealer on the entire wall tomorrow, it might lessen the difference between the textures on the top and bottom halves of the wall, and make it easier to achieve a uniform texture with the finish coat of paint.)


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## DIYusually (Jan 16, 2016)

*newly, not "neely," and the last two words - "of paint" - should not have been struck out


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## mathmonger (Dec 27, 2012)

Ugh. Best option is skim coat everything. Depends how bad the orange peel is. You can try a premium high build primer. I'd go for an even thicker nap. 1/2 is kind of normal. You really want to mop it on. I never tried a 3/4 on sheetrock, but if I were you, this might be the time.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Helps to sand the old part as smooth as you can before painting. 


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