# Door jamb flush with studs (not sticking out for drywall) ?



## westbank (May 4, 2010)

Hi,

I'm currently in the planning phase to finish our garage (insulation, vapor barrier and drywall). Our house was recently built and we got a door installed at the back of the garage. The only problem is that the door was installed flush with the studs (not sticking out 1/2" for the drywall). Now because we will get drywall installed (1/2" thick), we will need to install a 1/2" thick piece of wood (filler) around the door jamb. 

I was wondering what would be the best way to install that piece of wood (filler). Should it be flush with the door jamb or leave a 1/8" (or 1/4") gap with the door jamb ?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Some things wrong if the jambs are not even with the drywall.
That picture tells us nothing about the rough opening where the doors is.


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## westbank (May 4, 2010)

Usually the door jambs have to stick out of the rough opening so to that the drywall will end flush with the jambs. That's not the case for me; the door jambs are flush with the studs.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Why, what is on the other side of the wall? You can rip some 1X and extend the jamb but it does have some drawbacks doing that.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Add jamb extensions to there flush with the drywall.
Not sure what that close up is trying to show, the drywall should have been run up to the side of the rough opening.


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## westbank (May 4, 2010)

Sorry for the bad photo. I have attached another one which will better show that the actual door jambs are flush with the framing (rough opening). I will fabricate door jamb extensions out of pine wood but I have a dilemma regarding the installation. I'm not sure if I should offset the extensions slightly or to line it up with the edges of the jambs.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Your hinges will likely keep you from making the extensions flush. Start on the hinge side and whatever reveal you have on the face of the old jamb, hold that the rest of the way around. Typically, 3/16 to a 1/4 inch. As far as the gap between the new extensions and drywall, it doesn't really matter. Your casing will cover that gap.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

My first choice its always to make it right on the inside and do the extensions on the exterior. 

Extensions can get in the way of the hinges preventing the door from opening a complete 180.


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## westbank (May 4, 2010)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Your hinges will likely keep you from making the extensions flush. Start on the hinge side and whatever reveal you have on the face of the old jamb, hold that the rest of the way around. Typically, 3/16 to a 1/4 inch. As far as the gap between the new extensions and drywall, it doesn't really matter. Your casing will cover that gap.


The hinges are fairly big and are definitely not helping making my decision. When measuring (on the hinge side) from the edge of the door jamb to the end of the hinges, I have almost 5/8". That's a lot. If I place the extensions with an offset of 5/8" I think it will look odd.

I was thinking about notching the jamb extension for the hinges and install the extensions flush with the edge of the door jambs (no offset)

Plan B would be to completely remove the door and stick it out 1/2" to accommodate the drywall. But that would be a huge job. There's caulking on the exterior side, several screws in the door jambs and spray foam between the rough opening and the door jambs (case).


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

My guess it that the hinge side is correct and trimmed already. If you are go put trim on the inside I would use extension jam on this side or rip 1by to fit. I would make them flush with the side you see. If you are not going to trim the door I would leave it the way it is and just sheetrock.
Never mind I just legalized we were looking at the hinge side in second pic. Look like the door needs to be moved or the hinges and hardware need to be moved after extensions are put on.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

The door needs to be rehung. Remove the door and frame and remove the exterior brick mold. Reinstall the door with the inside of the jamb 1/2" proud of the framing. Cut and install extension jambs from 3/4 stock and install on the exterior jamb. Reinstall the brick mold.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

It's your house. What are you afraid of? I would pin 1/2" stock to the trim and finish as usual. You are not building for the red queen.:jester:


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

carpdad said:


> It's your house. What are you afraid of? I would pin 1/2" stock to the trim and finish as usual. You are not building for the red queen.:jester:


If you doo that the door will be hinge bound and the door strike plate will be screwed up/


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

rjniles said:


> The door needs to be rehung. Remove the door and frame and remove the exterior brick mold. Reinstall the door with the inside of the jamb 1/2" proud of the framing. Cut and install extension jambs from 3/4 stock and install on the exterior jamb. Reinstall the brick mold.


You could probably find a video on YouTube to replace an exterior door. 
You would just use the same door to replace it.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Your hinges should/will be mounted in such a manner that the door will swing clear of 1/2 at least (allowance for casing).

Thus I would rip some jamb extension (probably out of a maufactured product like MDF as pine can get pretty twisty) and I would leave a 1/4 reveal.

It is not the normal trim out, but reveals are left both as a decorative detail, but also because it is diffucult to get a good detailed flush extension fit (and the reveal) tends to remove that issue).

I would then use a thin (or planed down casing if necessary) and I think your door will swing fine.)


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

BTW, what thickness trim are you using?
The door with a knob is not going to close flush to the wall anyway. Tape a 3/4 stock and see how the door operates.
There are wider hinges as well that gives the door more clearance from the jamb.
Rockler is one place for non standard hardware.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

step back and take a photo not zoomed in please! let us get the whole concept of the problem. having zoomed in photos is like zooming in on a elephant skin and asking why his tusks are yellow?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

OK sounds like you bought a pure hung door for a 2x4 wall and you need a door for a 2x6 wall.


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

You could put on regular door casing as if the wall was already drywalled.Then drywall right up to the trim.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

You are getting a bunch of 1/2 a$$ed ideas that will look and function poorly. Rehang the door correctly with the extension jambs on the outside. It will only take an hour (2 if you are slow).


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

rjniles said:


> You are getting a bunch of 1/2 a$$ed ideas that will look and function poorly. Rehang the door correctly with the extension jambs on the outside. It will only take an hour (2 if you are slow).


Some people would like to see you work a whole day to solve a half hour problem. Cut through the foam sealant, risk damaging the threshold that is probably sealed to the floor for a half inch jamb extension. Disturb the exterior trim. Who's idea do you think is half-a$$ed?


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Some people would like to see you work a whole day to solve a half hour problem. Cut through the foam sealant, risk damaging the threshold that is probably sealed to the floor for a half inch jamb extension. Disturb the exterior trim. *Who's idea do you think is half-a$$ed?*


Yours for one. Adding extension jambs on the inside of the door will recess the hinges and latch into the jambs. The door will not swing properly and will look like sh*t. The door needs to be rehung!


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Yeah OK buddy. Looks like you're some kind of expert, so hand out your advice Mr. Pro.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Yeah OK buddy. Looks like you're some kind of expert, so hand out your advice Mr. Pro.


I do know how to hang a door properly:yes:


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## Suzeroo (Apr 2, 2011)

*Door flush with studs on interior side*

Hi everyone.. I have a similar problem in which an external door is installed flush with the studs on the inside of the house. I'm not going to reinstall the door. Just need to figure out a way to put up drywall, and trim around the door so that it looks ok. Should I put the trim directly on the studs, and bring the drywall right up to it?


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

rjniles said:


> Yours for one. Adding extension jambs on the inside of the door will recess the hinges and latch into the jambs. The door will not swing properly and will look like sh*t. The door needs to be rehung!


 the door will work perfectly fine if its furred out on the inside. its done all the time by countless finish carpenters worldwide with out isse. the only thing you have to take into consideration is the reveal of the extensions relating to the hinges. instead of using a standard 3/16" go to a 1/4" reveal to allow the hinges to work properly and for the strike plate to work.


if the door has a built in brickmold. that dictates where the door frame sits in relation to the framing, it has to go flush with the face of the exterior sheathing . if you remove the brick mold from the frame in order to set the door frame flush with the drywall, the manufacturers warrenty will now be void


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## Suzeroo (Apr 2, 2011)

Thanks Woodworkbykirk. Ok - I'm not a builder but have done some stuff. To make sure I understand, are you suggesting a vertical extension with furring strips? Essentially building out the jamb? And you're not talking about laying them flat against the studs that frame the door? The latter is what I've been visualizing as I stare at the problem..  I understand about the reveal.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

If you install the trim without building out the door frame, the junction where the sheetrock meets the trim will never look good. Build out the door frame with 1/2" stock using glue and finish nails. You might have to carve a slight relief for the hinges, and get a deeper striker plate so the doorknob bolt doesn't hit the trim.

This is also done when adding inside foam insulation sheet as an upgrade.


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## Suzeroo (Apr 2, 2011)

Got it! Thanks!


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

as i stated go with a larger reveal so you dont have to worry about the hinges.. dont don what the last person stated... its a waste of time.. almost all entry doors have 1" thick jamb stock so you have plenty of meat to nail your extensions to while still having a 1/4" reveal. almost every entry door i trim i have to put extensions on the jamb be it inswing or outswing..


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## Suzeroo (Apr 2, 2011)

Thanks for watching my back, woodworkbykirk (no offense ChuckF) - as I considered the choices, I do prefer to go with a larger reveal, as I don't really want to carve a reliefs for the hinges, etc. Big consideration is that this is an old house, and a bit of a sow's ear, so a good solution that requires the least complexity is the way to go. Will post pics when I finally get to the job!


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

im surprised maintenance hasnt tried chiming in with his nonsense again... if he thinks what i suggest is a full day process it takes literally 10 minutes to do. if he worked side by side with a window and door service tech for 7 years hed learn a few things


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