# Setup new Air Compressor- what now?



## tcoche (Apr 23, 2014)

Oh yeah, I also used 3/8" x 5" red head wedge anchors and vibration pads. Worked awesome!


----------



## tcoche (Apr 23, 2014)

Other than attempting to use the masonry bit in an average drill....hahaha!! Wasnt getting anywhere. Went to lowes and bought a hammerdrill. Worked like butter!!


----------



## tcoche (Apr 23, 2014)

The tools work awesome!


----------



## tcoche (Apr 23, 2014)

Hope my attempts to 5 posts work


----------



## tcoche (Apr 23, 2014)




----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

A dryer would be nice.

http://www.harborfreight.com/compressed-air-dryer-40211.html


----------



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Drain the air compressor tank every time that you use it. Install a filter to capture crud and moisture, and the farther that it is from the tank the better, as it will capture more moisture as the air cools. Except perhaps at a designated work station, I do not like inline lubricators for two reasons; more oil ends up on the inside of the line than at the tool, and, because of this, the line is no longer suitable for clean air that you need for certain applications, such as spraying. Instead, I put a couple of drops of oil directly into the nipple on the nailer, impact, whatever when I start, and periodically thereafter. Depending on the tools, you will need a regulator, and the closer it is to the point of use the less fussy it may be, but you'll figure that out as you go. I have a couple of regulators with a nipple in and a coupler out, so that I can plug say a framing nailer right into one of my smaller compressors, or a tire changer or impact into my shop compressor, then plug a regulator in front of the hose on either to run say a trim or finish nailer.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

I put mine in the basement where the air is drier, and plumbed some black pipe up into the garage. I tend to use air both in the garage for working on vehicles and in the basement for woodworking. 

Stay away from brass air chucks, buy the steel ones. Brass ones break very easily.

Ditto what DexterII said about oiling. If you are going to spray paint with the compressor, the most microscopic drop of oil can completely ruin your work.


----------



## fireguy (May 3, 2007)

ChuckF. said:


> Stay away from brass air chucks, buy the steel ones. Brass ones break very easily.


I have not used steel air fittings. But I only buy brass for my shop and service vans, they seem to last longer and seal better. I do not use aluminum/pot metal fittings, they seem to corrode easily. If the couplers do not seem to go together easily, a bit of penetrating oil seems to help. if the male end is rough, a green scratch pad will help.


----------



## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

My air compressor is set up with a air dryer and oil filter installed immediately after the filling coming out of the tank. I have Tee fitting with female couplings in the Tee. One goes to my hose reel and another goes to an inline regulator. I use the female coupling in case a hose breaks and I can disconnect the hose quickly (learned from experience). I have cracked the valve at the bottom of the tank just enough to hear a small amount of air escaping. My compressor is big enough so that small amount does not interfere with normal operations. Usually takes almost a day to drain the tank but there is never any water left in the tank. I have set up inline filter like DexterII and use them just before my air sprayer and plasma cutter.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I run several air tools and also spray finishes.I have the air dryer and filter before a hard line going to my finishing room and an inline oiler after that going into the room I used the air tools.


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I have two compressors hooked up in parallel for sand blasting. both are tied to a manifold with ball valves. The manifold feeds a master air dryer, which supplies hard piped air lines across the top of the shop and down the walls in 5 locations including one outside, with female chucks at each. Each drop has a "drip leg" with a drain cock below the chuck. I made up a dryer/regulator with a male chuck in and female out that I can move and plug in wherever I need it, mostly for spraying. The sandblasting equipment has it's own air dryers. I hate water in air lines in case you can't tell :laughing:.


----------



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> I do not like inline lubricators for two reasons; more oil ends up on the inside of the line than at the tool, and, because of this, *the line is no longer suitable for clean air that you need for certain applications, such as spraying. *Instead, I put a couple of drops of oil directly into the nipple on the nailer, impact, whatever when I start, and periodically thereafter.


Ayuh,.... Agreed,... Oil the Tool, not the air system,....


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Use another air pressure gauge at the last 25' before the tool as that 100' of hose will lose a lot- even at 3/8"- or learn how much so you adjust it for various task/tools that need more/less.
If in seismic area, strap that water tank to wall.

Gary
PS. Enjoy, and welcome to the forums!


----------



## iminaquagmire (Jul 10, 2010)

You already got a lot of good recommendations. I just wanted to say that when you get sick of that orange hose always being stiff and twisted, the green Flexilla hoses or any soft rubber hoses for that matter are so much easier to use.


----------

