# Ugh...caulk or putty gap between quarter round and hardwood floor???



## Optical1 (Nov 26, 2012)

I was so close to being done with this pesky remodel...

My wife wanted to help me strip the masking from our newly painted trim. I showed her how to cut the line where the trim meets the floor so that the masking wouldn't tear the paint off the trim. The problem is that she got careless and cut the trim itself, leaving an uneven gap between the quarter round and the hardwood. 

Now, I can't leave it like it is, and I don't want to replace it all - although I will if I have to. I'm also aware that the floor needs to expand/contract - so, the million dollar question is do I:

1) Replace the QR
2) Caulk the gap
3) Putty the gap

Anyone tried something similar?

Thanks,
Kiel


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Post a picture---there should not be a noticeable gap--the tiny gap is never caulked or filled---let's see what your looks like---Mike-----


----------



## Optical1 (Nov 26, 2012)

Well, this is probably the worst spot, but it ranges from tight to the floor to this bad...


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Damage is worse than I thought----tape the floor---caulk and paint---

P.S.---never leave your tape on long enough for the paint to dry---then you will never need to cut the paint in order to remove the tape---


----------



## Optical1 (Nov 26, 2012)

Mike,

Thanks for your input. I'll give it a go with caulking. Next time I'll pull the masking while it's still wet!!!

-Kiel


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That's a good idea--even if it means retaping for a second coat----


----------



## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I am thinking you might want to leave that gap. That floor is going to be expanding and contracting quite a bit and the caulk will more than likely not hold up. By all means tuck your tape in the cap and touch up the paint but I don't think anything else will really hold up.


----------



## Optical1 (Nov 26, 2012)

Matthewt1970 said:


> I am thinking you might want to leave that gap. That floor is going to be expanding and contracting quite a bit and the caulk will more than likely not hold up. By all means tuck your tape in the cap and touch up the paint but I don't think anything else will really hold up.


I'm concerned about expansion/contraction as well, but I can't live with that gap. It's either fill the gap, or replace the QR...sigh...

I guess I might as well try caulk. If it doesn't work, I'll need to replace it, which is really my only other option...


----------



## minimiter (Oct 7, 2013)

I have used KleenEdge Brown Paper Painter Tape to take care of things like that. I slide the coated end of the paper far enough under the gap to not allow the filler to stick to the flooring or other surface. This allows the base board to move since the filler is not stuck to the floor but to the paper. If using water based filler, I use Ready Patch, make sure you don't push the paper in to far because the unsealed portion of the paper will pucker with the moisture in the filler and not give you a clean line. When the filler is dry sand prime and paint (the paper keeps paint off the floor, and use a brand new utility knife blade and carefully slice the paper along the base board when paint is dry. The paper is so thin you won't be able to see it. I have done many of these some years ago and have never had the filler crack. Caulk will always shrink when curing on something that wide and not look right.

Craig


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Just quit looking at it, it's not that bad.:laughing:


----------



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

chrisn said:


> Just quit looking at it, it's not that bad.:laughing:


yea really, its not that bad .maybe mask off floor and paint it you'll never know .


----------



## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

minimiter said:


> I have used KleenEdge Brown Paper Painter Tape to take care of things like that. I slide the coated end of the paper far enough under the gap to not allow the filler to stick to the flooring or other surface. This allows the base board to move since the filler is not stuck to the floor but to the paper. If using water based filler, I use Ready Patch, make sure you don't push the paper in to far because the unsealed portion of the paper will pucker with the moisture in the filler and not give you a clean line. When the filler is dry sand prime and paint (the paper keeps paint off the floor, and use a brand new utility knife blade and carefully slice the paper along the base board when paint is dry. The paper is so thin you won't be able to see it. I have done many of these some years ago and have never had the filler crack. Caulk will always shrink when curing on something that wide and not look right.
> 
> Craig


That is the approach I used. I used some wax paper from the kitchen and joint compound. After it was shaped and touched up with paint the wax paper was wiggled loose and removed.


----------

