# Ledger Board Mounting



## Five Star (Mar 19, 2009)

1- you need to go to a bigger lag screw 1 inch into a stud is not enough. i would definitly use a 5-5.5 lag.

2- you should be connecting the ledger to the sheathing then flashing it,then shingle it,then put the siding last.

3-first nai the rafters,then put the hangers nailing all the holes.(nails are cheap so dont be cheap on them,buy a palm nailer they cost around $50)


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The ledger board should be mounted as cloe to the framing members as possible. The further away it is, the weaker the connection will be. I'd remove everything down to the sheathing.
The joist hangers are made to be nailed in every hole. A palm nailer makes the job go so much easier. As 5Star said, they are not expensive.
Ron


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Thanks for your replies! 
Deep down inside, I had a hunch that this top board was a problem. I have since removed it where the ledger board will be placed.
Its removal will allow me to lag the ledger board into the doubled top plate of the wall.
This will be an advantage as the ends of the ledger board wouldn't line up with the all studs.
The 4" lag screws that I have on hand will penetrate 1 1/2" into the wall plates every 16". I assume that this will be adequate.
The Simpson hangers that I plan to use require that they would be nailed at every place that a nail hole is provided.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The lag bolts are too short. I would go with 5-5 1/2". But it's your project.
Ron


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Nailing hangers: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/LUS-HUS.asp Be safe, GBAR


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I went with 5 - 5.5 lag bolts to support my shed roof for my sunroom. I had the 2x & 1/2" sheathing, so about 3"+ of penetration. Lag bolt into every stud per Inspector's request
Mine is about 16' x 16'


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