# Second floor overhang with Small attached roof -- need help



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

There was 0 reason to have added a vent to that little roof!
I would have used 1/2" plywood to seal up the soffit area.
Your showing a big gap between the first and second floors, that area should have been sealed up, not left open like that.
Not there to see it, but it looks like a garrison style over hang, if so I would have used 2" thick foam to seal up the overhang.


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## BenInMass (Jan 10, 2015)

RE: Vents

Yeah, we didn't ask for those on the overhang roof. Contractor went ahead and did them when we added them on the second floor.

Do I need to worry about keeping fiberglass away from the underside of the short roof? Can I just stuff it with fiberglass/foam and be done without tearing too much apart?

Thanks,


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Stuffing FG destroys the air pockets that are doing the insulating. Touching it to a cold roof will allow conduction, robbing you of R-value. IMO, as Joe said; pull the soffits, add rigid FB, canned foam/foil tape all, esp. the last vertical one on the rim joist to soffit. FB flat on inside of soffit (between soffit framing members) distance from gar. wall to overhang/rim FB. Add new soffit with vents located near fascia (gutter) for positive wind.

Gary
PS Welcome to the forums!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

We see this little design all the time. 

Gary's reply covered everything you need to do. Its tedious but its the only way to fix it correctly. 

I would extend that downspout down the roof surface and dump it into the gutter as well.


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## Jeff C (Feb 15, 2021)

Windows on Wash said:


> We see this little design all the time.
> 
> Gary's reply covered everything you need to do. Its tedious but its the only way to fix it correctly.
> 
> I would extend that downspout down the roof surface and dump it into the gutter as well.


Is it worth using spayed urethane instead? My 2nd floor overhangs the 1st floor by a foot and the amount of heat we lose in the winter is tremendous. I was planning to remove all the perforate aluminum panels, insolation and spray it with urethane, then replacing the aluminum with a non-perforated plastic siding. Does this make sense?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jeff C said:


> Is it worth using spayed urethane instead? My 2nd floor overhangs the 1st floor by a foot and the amount of heat we lose in the winter is tremendous. I was planning to remove all the perforate aluminum panels, insolation and spray it with urethane, then replacing the aluminum with a non-perforated plastic siding. Does this make sense?


It will not make enough of a difference to be cost effective. 
Do you know what insulation is there now?
Do you know if there is solid blocking between the joists over the lower wall?


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## Jeff C (Feb 15, 2021)

Nealtw said:


> It will not make enough of a difference to be cost effective.
> Do you know what insulation is there now?
> Do you know if there is solid blocking between the joists over the lower wall?


I opened up one section and there is some old shoddy pink insulation and a vapour barrier that was likely installed back when the house was build in ‘68.
Not sure about about the blocking between the joists. Can’t see very well.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Jeff C said:


> I opened up one section and there is some old shoddy pink insulation and a vapour barrier that was likely installed back when the house was build in ‘68.
> Not sure about about the blocking between the joists. Can’t see very well.


The normal here is 2x10 joists full of pink bats with vented soffet, I have seen people try to upgrade that but the real problem is not enough heat on the inside to hold the cold back.


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## Jeff C (Feb 15, 2021)

Nealtw said:


> The normal here is 2x10 joists full of pink bats with vented soffet, I have seen people try to upgrade that but the real problem is not enough heat on the inside to hold the cold back.


Thank you!


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