# Sierra breaks



## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

Hi my name is matt. I've been searching for a site like this so i hope y'all can help.
I have an 03' gmc Sierra. For almost a month now my breaks have been grinding. So i replaced them in the front. But a week later I got the same noise only louder and while in motion. I thought I did something wrong but the job looked good. The grinding sounded like it was coming from the front and getting louder by the day. Then yesterday I had just pulled into the parking lot at work and I heard a pop. Them the peddle went to the floor. I dropped it down to first gear and rode the curb to stop. When I got out I noticed a puddle of break fluid running down my right rear tire. Now the breaks light is chiming and I have no breaks. Anyone have any ideas what happened? Please help its urgent.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Have you pulled the tire? 

That is where you start. 

4 wheel disc on this car with a hydraulic Parking brake?


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## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

I worked my shift by the time I got done it was too dark. I could not find a ride up there today. Yes 4x4. 4 wheel disc and hydolic e-break.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Step one would be a visual inspection by pulling the wheel or it least getting up inside the fender well and looking at it.


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## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

I open tomorrow so i will do that and post back then. I did peek under the truck though. All the fluid appeared to be coming from the caliper at a glance.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Sounds like you let the brakes grind too long and you popped the piston out of the caliper.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

One of the calipers seized on you. From overheating, brake fluid expanded and blew the line. Basic.


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## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

That's kinda what I figured but I'm not very savvy with mechanics. Anything i need to know I look up on the internet. Thank you both for your assistance. It is greatly appreciated.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Blew a seal?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

GM trucks of that era had issues with the rear calipers sticking, the grinding noise could have been there all along and transferring to the front. One of the rears I think it was the right was more prone to do this, dirt would get lodged in the caliper and make it stick.

Another thing to look for on the 99-2007 trucks is the brake lines, the steel lines from the ABS generally under the drivers seat area under the truck can rust out, the most common area for them to rust out and break would be where the frame rail sweeps up to clear the rear axle. 


For future reference never drive on grinding brakes, a little squeal maybe but grinding is never good, and if you have no brakes, park the vehicle, it's not worth killing your self or someone else.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

1985gt said:


> GM trucks of that era had issues with the rear calipers sticking, the grinding noise could have been there all along and transferring to the front. One of the rears I think it was the right was more prone to do this, dirt would get lodged in the caliper and make it stick.
> 
> Another thing to look for on the 99-2007 trucks is the brake lines, the steel lines from the ABS generally under the drivers seat area under the truck can rust out, the most common area for them to rust out and break would be where the frame rail sweeps up to clear the rear axle.
> 
> ...


^^^^^^He is correct.^^^^^^^ Just get 'loaded' calipers and rotors. Loaded means reman caliper with pads. Install them, then bleed the brakes. Get a couple of cans of brake clean and spray the brake area down to remove the brake fluid as the fluid will remove paint. Stay away from auto zone unless you want to do it again.:vs_coffee:


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## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

Thanks to all who helped me with my breaks. I have one more issue. The bottom slide pin bolt rounded out. I can't use my t55. How do I remove this?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

It's been awhile since I've done them but for some reason I was thinking the slide pin was a 14 or 15 MM head bolt. Either way you should be able to get vice grips on it or you can remove the whole mounting bracket, remove the brake line and set it on a bench where you can see it better. The parts store should have the slide pins in stock as those I believe interchange between a number of years.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Loaded calipers come with everything minus the brake hose. The pad holder, I call it, and the bolts, hardware, and pads so just remove the pad holder bolts and remove the hole assembly. Above is the duel piston type for your truck.








This is single piston type for your truck. There is a core charge so bring in the assembly to swap out and keep the pad holder bolts to spindle for reassembly.:vs_coffee:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I would check with Rock Auto as well. 

I agree that buying anything from most of the auto shops is a recipe to do the work twice. 

I have found some good deals on Rock Auto before and they sell some nice stuff. 

Buy them loaded and ready to go as mentioned. Good flush and bleed on the lines and you are ready to go.


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## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

Sweet.everything is assembled and ready to go. However, the bleeding valve is stuck on the other three calipers. How do I do the bleeding without breaking the little tit.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

You don't. 

Soak them in penetrating oil well overnight. 

Sometimes the smallest bit of torque to tighten them will help you loosen them.


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## msl4gmc (Dec 15, 2015)

Wont the penetrating oil freeze? It's like 28 degrees here.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

No it's a solvent, very little if any water in them. 

Make sure to have the proper size wrench, I like to use a 1/4 drive 6 point socket to break them free. They are super easy to round off then you will be using vice grips. They sell replacements at auto parts stores for pretty cheap, may not be a bad thing to do if they are really that stuck, as they may be plugged as well. 

Like WOW said, let them sit in penetrating oil for awhile, over night is best but sometimes we dont have that long to wait. Use a good penetrating oil, PB blaster, AeroKoil, or Seafoam Deep Creep. A 6 Pt socket on a 1/4 drive ratchet and try to tighten them ever so slightly. They should come out pretty good after that.


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