# Tray ceiling corners cracking and separating



## Relentless85 (Oct 9, 2014)

I have tried to post pictures but the forum says I need more than 1 post to post pictures. I know pictures will be more helpful.


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## Relentless85 (Oct 9, 2014)

see the pictures below :


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Oh the joys of working with a textured anything.
To me that sure looks way to thick to have been 1/2" sheetrock to 5/8 on that ceiling.
Looks more like they use 1 X pine to make the tray.
Whatever they used it was cut to wide and it came out below the ceiling below, huge mistake.
Now your stuck with having to skim coat and retexturing.


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## Relentless85 (Oct 9, 2014)

joecaption said:


> Oh the joys of working with a textured anything.
> To me that sure looks way to thick to have been 1/2" sheetrock to 5/8 on that ceiling.
> Looks more like they use 1 X pine to make the tray.
> Whatever they used it was cut to wide and it came out below the ceiling below, huge mistake.
> Now your stuck with having to skim coat and retexturing.


So you are saying that I would need to tape and put joint compound over the cracked areas and try to blend it in with the existing texture ? Won't the cracking come back if I were to do that?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Looks like a bad job on the corner bead or being a bathroom it could be the bead has rusted away. You could probably skim along the bead with ezsand hot mud to add some strength. Then then flat tape the bead. but that texture is going to be hard to match.

To do the job right remove the bead and replace with vinyl. But this would lead to skimming the whole ceiling unless you can match the texture.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That looks to narrow to be real outside corner bead.
And even if it is it still looks like they ran that vertical piece to long which makes the outside corner stick out to far.
Both pieces should have been left back away from the point in the corner before the outside corner trim went on.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I see that quite often. Corner bead was not properly crimped/screwed/nailed to those corners. I have had success cutting out the area that is sagging with an oscillating tool and then replacing just that section with new corner bead properly attached. You just have to be careful to have the repaired section lined up properly with what isn't damaged so you don't get odd areas that need filled with joint compound.

Of course the best way is to replace the ENTIRE bead as Toolseeker suggests but that can be quite a project.


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