# Attaching wood walls to concrete slab



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Ron,
depends a lot on where you are located. Update your profile and you'll get better responses. I use a foam sill sealer between the treated plate and concrete slab or blockwork. Codes around here require bottom of framing to be at least 8" above finish grade. If you meet that, cdx plywood should be fine for sheathing. 
Mike Hawkins


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

I hope you plan to use the appropriate anchor bolts to keep the garage held down and in the same county. You don't have to use special bolt materials for the embedded portion, but any fastener in treated wood has to be made for that purpose to prevent the preservatives from destroying it. - That can happen in a few short years.

Dick


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## BigGuy01 (Jul 11, 2011)

To nail wood to concrete, you can always get a HILTI Powder Actuated Tool, with apprpriate fasteners that come with the tool, and nail the wood into the concrete without problems.

:thumbsup:


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> To nail wood to concrete, you can always get a HILTI Powder Actuated Tool, with apprpriate fasteners that come with the tool, and nail the wood into the concrete without problems.


...and Building Codes approve that method for securing a structure to a slab *???*


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

I believe that an EPDM gasket between the concrete and the wood eliminates the need for PT wooded and associated hassles. Ask a local building inspector. I see that done here.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ressure-treated-sill-plates-and-building-code

If you are under the IRC;http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec017.htm

http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_4_sec004_par043.htm


As said, check locally.


Gary


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> ...and Building Codes approve that method for securing a structure to a slab *???*


Not a chance! Perhaps some are misreading the initial post (I did at first). I thought he meant a partition wall, not the main walls of the garage. Totally different thing. Depending on local code, there should be some sort of anchors embedded in the slab.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Not a chance! Perhaps some are misreading the initial post (I did at first). I thought he meant a partition wall, not the main walls of the garage. Totally different thing. Depending on local code, there should be some sort of anchors embedded in the slab.


There ya go!:thumbsup:


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Foundation bolts are needed. Do yourself a favor and build stem walls not just a pored slab. Do a key word on "stem wall."
By the questions your asking it may be best to have someone that knows what there doing build this for you.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

As well as getting an experienced person to DESIGN and help build the whole deal, make sure you insulate under it if you are ever going to heat it: A minimum of 2" of rigid foam under the slab, and, if you are in a heating-dominated environment, under the footer, and in and out on the stem wall or edge beam (whatever you do there).


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## Ron55 (Dec 17, 2011)

Guys, all I was asking about was the issue of the concrete touching the wood. I apologize for not making it clear that I was only talking about the exterior walls. I have anchor bolts in a monolithic slab. I appreciate the suggestion of the EPDM gasket which seems like a better way to keep it "green". I also apprciate the info regarding the use of cdx plywood when keeping the walls 8" above finish grade. Our local codes require the same 8" limitation. Thank you all for your input.


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