# The best drywall for basements?



## phantasm72

I wouldnt advise placing drywall next to the blocks, condensation and seepage through the blocks will make the drywall damp, and with no airflow, mould will set in.
Depending on how humid your area is, and what kind of winters you have, I would recommend framing the wall with 2x4's, then stick in your insulation and vapour barrier, then the drywall. A moisture barrier against the brick wall, from gradelevel down, would also be wise.
If you were going to forego the insulation, I would think attaching simple 1x2's to the wall, a vapour barrier then your drywall would suffice for adequate airflow.


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## shaun_m

Thanks for the advise

I take it that i should I use treated wood for the bottom plate of the stud wall as it has contact with the concrete. But are there any additional steps i could take, like a membrane in-between the concrete floor and bottom plate?

Thanks
S


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## algored2deth

shaun_m said:


> Thanks for the advise
> 
> I take it that i should I use treated wood for the bottom plate of the stud wall as it has contact with the concrete. But are there any additional steps i could take, like a membrane in-between the concrete floor and bottom plate?
> 
> Thanks
> S



You can use either the treated wood for the bottom plate or you can use regular studs with a sill plate gasket underneath it (the pink foam in a roll stuff). Never put raw wood directly next to or on a concrete floor. Even though your basement may be dry, there is still moisture present. It is one less way to allow mold to grow. You could also use newer board stock out there that has a blue color to it that is treated wood. Can also do metal studs if you want to go that route. Several choices here.

Some people also don't like to have the green treated wood inside of a home, regardless if it is topped with drywall. The green treated stuff can be harmful but I really don't have hard science to back it up.

The "best" drywall is something made with fiberglass facing. It has a blue face on it I believe. The less paper based products you use in a basement, the better. Paper is a food source for mold so if you take away a means to mold growth, you will have less chances for mold to grow.

When you stud your walls, you will want to leave a gap between the walls and wood. What you put in between them if a matter for discussion. If you have the money, spray foam is a good idea. Below that you can use rigid foam boards. Both are not cheap. Check out this video for some insights:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jSuWbdJy5A

You can also check out the Holmes on Homes Fan Forum and read up on basement renovations. Very worthwhile. You will have to register to do so.

dennis


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## phantasm72

shaun_m said:


> Thanks for the advise
> 
> I take it that i should I use treated wood for the bottom plate of the stud wall as it has contact with the concrete. But are there any additional steps i could take, like a membrane in-between the concrete floor and bottom plate?
> 
> Thanks
> S


If you plan to use a moisture barrier on the walls, which is basically a thin grade plastic, you can give an extra foot at the bottom, and place the bottom plate onto of that, then just trim off any exposed excess when you are done.

Another route would be to use a styrene type insulation. They come in tongue and grooved sheets about 2' wide. Super easy to work with and shape. They of course are airtight, waterproof and impervious to mould. You can glue these directly onto your basement walls then glue drywall straight to the insulation. Though if you have significant wall space to do, the cost might get a bit high...


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## phantasm72

algored2deth said:


> Some people also don't like to have the green treated wood inside of a home, regardless if it is topped with drywall. The green treated stuff can be harmful but I really don't have hard science to back it up.


The fumes from treated wood when it is burning is toxic. As far as I know the stuff they treat wood with now, doesnt leach off into the air like the stuff they commonly used to treat wood in the past (which is now banned). Also if you use treated wood, you need specially coated screws, or they will just eventually be eaten away and snap...


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## shaun_m

That's really useful information - thank you both. 

The thin barrier - Do I glue that to the blocks?

Styrene sheets - I'm not familiar with this product, do you have any more information on it

I watched a youtube video for installing Owens Corning Insul pink rigid foam, it's an inch and half thick and has an R value of 7.something. The installation looked simple as the design allows you to put a wood strip in-between each piece to secure it.

Lowes have a 2 inch rigid foam board that has an R value of 10 but it's square edge so I'm not sure the best way to install that. I've read some people glue the seams and secure it with - I'm guessing concrete screws into the blocks

Spray foam - Can you rent the equipment to do this from Lowes or Home Depot?


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## mel_kissmygrits

I installed greenboard in my basement last year. It's drywall that is mold resistant. Only a buck more per piece at the HD.


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## phantasm72

shaun_m said:


> That's really useful information - thank you both.
> 
> The thin barrier - Do I glue that to the blocks?
> 
> Styrene sheets - I'm not familiar with this product, do you have any more information on it


styrene sheets is probably the rigid foam you are talking about...
Yeah, the moisture barrier gets glued right to the blocks. Check the caulking and sealant section at the hardware store. I know Lepage makes some (http://www.lepageproducts.com/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=92) Its a black, tar like stuff. One bead along the top and a dab every 4 or 5' along the bottom is enough. It stays sticky for like 3 months or something, so you can peal the barrier off and re-apply it if you need to reposition it or something


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## algored2deth

shaun_m said:


> That's really useful information - thank you both.
> 
> The thin barrier - Do I glue that to the blocks?
> 
> Styrene sheets - I'm not familiar with this product, do you have any more information on it
> 
> I watched a youtube video for installing Owens Corning Insul pink rigid foam, it's an inch and half thick and has an R value of 7.something. The installation looked simple as the design allows you to put a wood strip in-between each piece to secure it.
> 
> Lowes have a 2 inch rigid foam board that has an R value of 10 but it's square edge so I'm not sure the best way to install that. I've read some people glue the seams and secure it with - I'm guessing concrete screws into the blocks
> 
> Spray foam - Can you rent the equipment to do this from Lowes or Home Depot?



Spray foam cannot be rented at a store. You can buy a kit from Tiger Foam and some other places or you have to call a pro in. 

If you watch the video I linked from youtube, when you connect two pcs together, you end up caulking the joints and then taping over them with builders tape. 

You should not have to screw into the wall at all. You will be able to glue the foam to the walls and then build up your walls outside of that. This method, while pretty decent, causes you to lose a bit more floor space that you may want. If you use 2" XPS (expanded polystyrene) foam boards, your wall will build out that 2" plus the studs of 3.5". You lose 4.5" each side before drywalling.

dennis


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## shaun_m

OK I'm going to look into everything mentioned. Thanks again for the help, I think I have a clear idea of what to do now
Shaun


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## Gary in WA

Building Science recommends *no plastic *on the wall; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-basements?full_view=1

P.t. or a durable species (redwood, cedar, etc.) on concrete slab less than 8" thick per Code; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec017.htm

Sill sealer with p.t. wood for a capillary/thermal break; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com...ressure-treated-sill-plates-and-building-code

No air gap behind batt insulation/blocks for convective loops, add rigid foam board to the rim and air seal; http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html

http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-buy-choose-fiberglass-insulation-90438/

*Where are you located* for the recommended foam thickness?

Gary


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## masterofall

Wrap your bottom plate with strips of 6mil poly and staple it to the studs. Keep the wall studs one inch from the concrete. As concrete is constantly trying to hydrate condensation can occur and promote mold growth where contact between the two surfaces prevents drying.
The mold resistance of Magnesium oxide wallboard (mag board or MgO2)appears to be on the way to proving itself as the best product in situations where moisture can be a problem


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## masterofall

Wrap your bottom plate with strips of 6mil poly and staple it to the studs. Keep the wall studs one inch from the concrete. As concrete is constantly trying to hydrate condensation can occur and promote mold growth where contact between the two surfaces prevents drying.
The mold resistance of Magnesium oxide wallboard (mag board or MgO2)appears to be on the way to proving itself as the best product in situations where moisture can be a problem


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## shaun_m

Thanks for the advise Gary, That's great reading
I'm in NJ (near to NY border) - would 1 and a half inch XPS be OK?
No plastic - Is this so that the wall can breathe? My wall had BEHR waterproofing paint on it - Will that cause an issue?

Also a problem that i have discovered is that my slab floor has 1-2 inch gravel permiter (common in my area) to a sump pump. I don't know if my blocks allow drainage to the trench or if it's a precaution or if I have a a drain exterior / interior drain system. The basement is dry but I have seen the gravel look wet at one time (maybe spring). I'm really not sure how to deal with it - seal it on the basement slab side?


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## shaun_m

Thanks for the tip masterofall


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