# my tape line always show when i paint???



## unlvrebel (Jul 20, 2010)

Quite simply sounds like you don't have enough mud on the wall to cover the tape. You didn't say if this is where two factory edges meet, two cut edges, one of each... It they are factory edges you should have no problem placing tape and mudding as the edges are tapered out to allow for mud. Make sure that you are using a wide enough tape knife. Should be using a six inch knife for the first coat and move up to a ten or twelve inch knife for subsequent coats. The larger knife will allow you to fill the concave area formed by the two factory edges.

Cut edges are a little tougher. Again, start with a six inch knife and get some mud on the wall. I'm not an advocate of sanding. After all, you worked so hard to get the mud on the wall. You should be able to use the edge of your six inch knife as a scraper and get the really high spots. After you get that first coat on move to the larger knife and mud to the left and the right of the first mud using the first mud to run your knife on. Don't overwork the mud. Get it up there, let it dry, scrape and repeat. You should be looking at three or four passes before you are done.

One more thing. You might consider getting the powdered drywall mud to mix yourself. You can get various curing times so you can work quicker than with pre-mix. I prefer 45 minute mud.


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## Limit54 (Nov 6, 2009)

I ment tape lines as in the areas where I was mudding the tape. when I paint all I see is globs or raised areas where I mudded over the tape. I know that i sanded it very good.

You can't actually see the tape...all you see are areas where I have applied mud.


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

get a level and use more the 2 coats. when you do a tapered joint apply setting compound with a 4-6" knife, bed the tape. dry, now use basically anything for coat 2, an all purpose lite would be fine, apply with an 8" knife and go over it with an 11" curved trowel. you want to push hard but not so hard you flatten it. a small small hump is actually good at this point. let it dry, sand and use a topping compound for coat 3. beadex topping lite is my favorite, it's tan and lets you see what you're doing really easy. this third coat should skim out even wider than the 11" you did before. a 14" curved trowel would work best, apply the mud with a 10" knife and run it down with the 14" trowel. push hard this time as the point it to fill in any voids left in coat two. butt joints follow the same basic idea only you will likely need to feather them out a little more. 12" on each side of the joint is normally enough to disappear a butt joint.

oh yes, about the level. use it to check your work. if you have more than 1/16" anywhere in your final mud joints you need to sand or feather out more. ideally there should be virtually no wiggle in the level. you also need a 2ft level


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Who told you to only use two coats?


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## Limit54 (Nov 6, 2009)

K thank for the tips I'll try it out. Rocking the knife and using the level is something I wouLd have never thought of. Hopefully this should improve my work sibstantially.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Also, if you can get a 300 watt halogen work light and light up that area, it will show alot of the imperfections.


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

To look for imperfections, hold a shielded trouble light close to the wall and shining toward the joint.
A shadow will show where the mud is low.


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## racebum (Mar 8, 2010)

you also really want at least a 11" curved trowel, these things are just the thing to use when doing seams. the slight hump they allow is golden when you sand. if you just pull it flat with a knife it's really easy to have a low spot after sanding

this is probably my most loved drywall tool 

http://www.amazon.com/Marshalltown-12SD-11-Inch-Drywall-DuraSoft/dp/B0000DI84E


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## Limit54 (Nov 6, 2009)

Thanks for the amazing tips guys. This should help me huge


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

You also mentioned you're using a lite compound. Usually people use this stuff for their last(third) finishing coat, not for every single coat. It sands the most and easiest compared to setting-type compound and all-purpose compound. I would try using a ready-mix all-purpose compound for all of your coats with paper tape and a setting-type compound for your first coat and ready-mix all-purpose compound for your second and third coats when using mesh tape.

Using the lite stuff with inexperience will definitely contribute to your oversanding issue.

Happy sanding. :jester:


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