# Ceiling Fan Light Problem



## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

I have a Hampton Bay ceiling fan that is having light issues. I installed the fan about 8 months ago and everything worked fine for about 6 months. Now, the lights do not work properly. They are CFL lights that have the new knob ends that kind of snap in place. 

The fan is controlled by one light switch and the actual fan part works fine. However, when I flip on the wall light switch, the lights only flash on for about half a second and then they turn off again. I can hear an audible "click" when it turns on and then another "click" when it turns off again. Again, the fan blades continue working even when the light turns itself off. 

Here's what I've done so far:
-Installed new light bulbs
-Changed wall light switch
-Checked electrical connections in electrical box
-Ordered and changed out light "kit" from the manufacturer

While poking around, I saw that the light kit wires go through a black box (shown with a yellow sticker in the picture below). 
This black box was not changed out when I changed the light kit. What is the box, and could it be the problem?


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Does this fan have a remote control? 
Did it work with CFLs before? Could be that the remote unit is not compatible with CFLs. Try a normal lamp.


----------



## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

There is no remote control and the unit worked fine for a few months before failing. Nothing was changed prior to the light problem. I'm actually on hold with customer support right now, so hopefully they'll have answers for me. I'm not going to hold my breath though 

I've found references to the "wattage limiter" failing on other similar fans. I don't have much experience with a wattage limiter, or even if that's what its actually called. If I get answers, I'll update my post.


----------



## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

Just to follow up: The technical support person for the fan company didn't know what the problem was. However, they are sending me a new wattage limiter to see if that fixes the problem. 

I'll update this thread after I install the new part.


----------



## McSteve (Dec 8, 2009)

For reference, since I recently went through this with my ceiling fan;

If you ever need to, you can simply remove the wattage limiter. Cap the white wire to it, and splice the other two together.

I had to do that when a bulb shorted in my fan and blew apart the circuit board in the wattage limiter. That little black box is astonishingly cheaply made.


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I find it hard to believe that the technical support person "doesn't know" what the problem is. (Was he the fan company or a Home Depot product support person?)
Some fan companies are having enough problems with the wattage limiter, that they should wire them in on a ganged plug to facilitate replacement by homeowners. 

The wattage limiter is required by Federal law, and was in place during the Independant Lab (eg UL) testing. So, while I can understand bypassing it while waiting for the part, I believe it needs to be reinstalled.

How do our Pro's feel about it ?


----------



## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

Oso954 said:


> I find it hard to believe that the technical support person "doesn't know" what the problem is. (Was he the fan company or a Home Depot product support person?)
> Some fan companies are having enough problems with the wattage limiter, that they should wire them in on a ganged plug to facilitate replacement by homeowners.
> 
> The wattage limiter is required by Federal law, and was in place during the Independant Lab (eg UL) testing. So, while I can understand bypassing it while waiting for the part, I believe it needs to be reinstalled.
> ...


I talked to Home Depot customer care but they referred me to the ceiling fan manufacturer. The manufacturer sent me a lightkit replacement that didn't fix the problem. I was the one who had to ask about the black box and the lady said that those things typically don't fail, but she'll send me a new one anyways. At first she said that the black box was the capacitor and I had to convince her that it wasn't. (She didn't seem to be too knowledgeable.)

I got the new wattage limiter yesterday and I plan to install it this weekend. It would be much easier if there was a quick disconnect as you suggested above though.


----------



## jeepdawg (Aug 15, 2012)

Oso954 said:


> I find it hard to believe that the technical support person "doesn't know" what the problem is. (Was he the fan company or a Home Depot product support person?)
> Some fan companies are having enough problems with the wattage limiter, that they should wire them in on a ganged plug to facilitate replacement by homeowners.
> 
> The wattage limiter is required by Federal law, and was in place during the Independant Lab (eg UL) testing. So, while I can understand bypassing it while waiting for the part, I believe it needs to be reinstalled.
> ...


Not a pro....but at this point I'm starting to feel like an expert with California Title 24 stuff.

It sounds like the OP is describing GU24 bases...which are actually better than the Edison base in my opinion...makes for a more compact design....and meets title 24 requirements for high effeciency.

So...it would seem to me that since you can't plug in an incandescent bulb....just CFL or LED....very unlikely your going to exceed the wattage limit.

I know what I would do....I would remove the wattage limiter....

Is this the same thing as that tag on the matress that says "Do not remove under penalty of law"...


----------



## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

jeepdawg said:


> It sounds like the OP is describing GU24 bases....


Yes, the light bulbs are 13 Watt GU24 Base CFL's. There are two of them on my light kit, and my wattage limiter is designed to restrict wattages over 190 watts. I doubt I am truly exceeding that wattage with my two 13 watt bulbs. 

I'm not planning to bypass the wattage limiter yet because I'm hoping that the new one will work better than the defective one.


----------



## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

The GU24 base just meets the no screw in base part of Title 24. It's the lamp which meets the _high efficacy _(not effeciency) part. 

But that can be easily bypassed by obtaining GU24 to Medium base adapters.


----------



## bobelectric (Mar 3, 2007)

Get used to it Boys. these are the new EPACT rules to save us money.


----------



## jeepdawg (Aug 15, 2012)

Oso954 said:


> The GU24 base just meets the no screw in base part of Title 24. It's the lamp which meets the _high *efficacy* _(not effeciency) part.
> 
> But that can be easily bypassed by obtaining GU24 to Medium base adapters.


You are correct...but more people know what efficiency (spelled right this time) is vs efficacy....

I can't imangine someone wanting to stick in a GU24 to edison adapter...that would stick the bulb out about another inch....

My big complaint right now about GU24 is that at the big box stores, they have about 2' of shelving for GU24 lights vs 50' of shelving for Edison lamps.....


----------



## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

I replaced the wattage limiter today and the light now works. The old wattage limiter was faulty--let's hope the new one lasts longer than the old one did.


----------



## fordop87 (Dec 20, 2015)

This post helped me a lot! I had the same problem with my Harbor Breeze fans. The lights stopped working on both of my fans within months of each other and it really puzzled me. After changing bulbs and checking the pull switches I was still stumped. After reading this post I decided to go ahead and bypass the wattage limiters until I can get new ones. My wife had replaced the bulbs with 80watt bulbs and it burnt out the wattage limiters. (Honest mistake) I popped the limiters open just to see what the circuits looked like and I was quite surprised. One circuit had a little burn just above the black wire and the other was quite toasted!

So my tip to someone who is having lighting issues with their fan is
1. Check the bulbs
2. Check the pull switch by testing continuity.
3. Check the wattage limiter (the small square plastic box with a Black, Blue, and White wire coming out of it in my case) by carefully popping off the plastic cover and inspecting it visually. If you still have doubts check the continuity.
4. If all of that is good, then check that you are getting power to your fan and light circuits from the wall switch.


----------

