# Studs behind tiles in bathroom



## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

My Dad is back home after almost dying and my Mom's going in for hip replacement in a couple weeks.
I've been tasked with installing a couple grab bars in their shower but am having trouble finding the studs behind the shower tile (4X4, plain ole white stuff).
I bought a good studfinder and got all sorts of readings showing studs all over the place.
Can anyone help me in trying to find these studs? Is there a trick for finding studs behind tile?
Can I just drill holes and use heavy duty anchors/toggle bolts to mount these grab bars?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

They make hardware for no-stud applications. http://www.lowes.com/pd_337714-1471-SMA1005CH_0__?productId=3309916


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Tiled all the way to the ceiling?
If not find the stud at the top and transfer the line down.


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## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Tiled all the way to the ceiling?
> If not find the stud at the top and transfer the line down.


Tile is all the way to the ceiling.


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## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

kwikfishron said:


> They make hardware for no-stud applications. http://www.lowes.com/pd_337714-1471-SMA1005CH_0__?productId=3309916


Is there more of a universal fit? This one looks specific to Moen bars.
Thanks


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## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

What about using snap toggle anchors? http://www.lowes.com/pd_123585-10337-55175_0__


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Get to the height that you need for one end of the bar, go out from the corned in increments of 16" to get Bout where one end will go, put a finish nail through the grout and cement board till you find a stud. Re grout the unused holes.

But on second thought what is your finder telling you. I just did a bath withOUT a grab bar but ran two bye eight solid blocking between studs at grab bar height should one eventually need to be installed,. Ron


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## MrBryan (Apr 28, 2011)

Do you have access to the other side of the wall? If so you can locate them from that side so you know where to look from the tiled side.


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## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

ront02769 said:


> But on second thought what is your finder telling you. I just did a bath withOUT a grab bar but ran two bye eight solid blocking between studs at grab bar height should one eventually need to be installed,. Ron


Finder's telling me all sorts of stud locations. Some as close as 4". Shower's got all sorts of pencil marks on it.


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## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

MrBryan said:


> Do you have access to the other side of the wall? If so you can locate them from that side so you know where to look from the tiled side.


Don't have access to other side.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

How old is the house? Go try in another room and see if they are 16" o/c or 24" o/c on the exterior wall.

BTW. There are better stud finders that will find studs behind tile.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Zamboknee said:


> Is there more of a universal fit? This one looks specific to Moen bars.
> Thanks


I think what's more important than finding the studs is installing the bar where it "needs to be" for whoever is going to use it. That location may or may not be where the studs are.

Even if you find a stud there's no guarantee that there will be a stud on the other end of the bar. Even if there is you may only be able to get one screw into it. 

If the bath was being remolded you'd install blocking in the wall where you would be installing the bar but since that's not the case here that Moen system is a good one.

And to answer your question (post 6), no I wouldn't trust those plastic toggles you linked to for this application.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The Moen is the standard that you will find. Only thing is that you want to seal the hole with caulk, before finishing tightening the plate. Along with caulking on the plate where it is going to meet the wall. Otherwise you will end up with water getting back inside the hole.


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## simbadCA (Jan 18, 2011)

Searching for studs in a shower is too unreliable. Bathrooms often are surrounded with space for storage, plumbing, ducting...trying to depend on 16-inch spacing will just drive you crazy. 
Plan on using anchors as suggested, and you may still hit a stud and need to use screws. The integrity of the wall will be the determine how much load it will support. When shopping for your anchors, make sure the hardware is compatible with the grab-bar. 
Drilling tile is annoying, so take your time and maybe the tile won't crack. Consider the possibility that you may choose to replace a tile. Purchase multiple tile bits, pre-refilling with sharp smaller bits. NOTE, The tile itself won't provide any support, and the hardware will cover some do the cracks. 
Hip replacement...you may need more bars near the toilet, and perhaps need to replace the toilet seat with a taller version. Good luck with your parents, it's great that you can help them.


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## Zamboknee (Jul 9, 2011)

I installed the previously linked snap toggle anchors for the 1 bar (2nd one to do tomorrow) and it seems real sturdy and solid.
As kwikfishron mentioned I had to install these where they need to be for safe use so I went with the toggles.
Did the research (Lowes even recommends them) and these look like they're gonna do just fine.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Just my opinion but I would never mount mount a grab bar with toggle bolts. You don't say how big your mom and dad are but if just say 150 pounds if one of them slips and grabs that bar a toggle bolt in dry wall will not hold. Older people that need them tend to depend on these bars and put more weight and pressure on them than just a handhold.

The correct and safe way would be open the wall up behind the shower, in the other room behind it and install blocking between the studs. Then connect the bars to this blocking. I know it's not cheap but really you need to hire this job out, and not to a handyman.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

http://www.grabbarspecialists.com/products.php?cat=11


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Toolseeker, majority of the hand bars out there, use the toggle bolt like Moen uses, or the one that Bud posted. The only place I would not trust them, is on those Aluminum stall walls, that have the honeycomb inside of them.

Now if someone was to come along and install one in my bathtub area. They would actually get false readings from the horizontal 1x4 ledger boards I have behind the Green Board. Of course the ledger board is screwed into the studs. They are not going anywhere.


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

What's the exterior wall construction? In our old house it was a brick veneer on concrete block. The inside walls were laid on, basically, just 1" furring strips. NO studs per se on the outside walls. That and, shockingly, NO insulation. 

So for that kind of construction you'd be looking at using concrete anchors and long enough bolts to reach where they're in the block.


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