# Drywall directly on Cinderblock



## blau808 (Mar 16, 2010)

I just bought a condo in Hawaii, but the interior walls are ugly concrete block and I would like to cover them up with drywall. 
There are no moisture, temperature or noise issues, so I am forgoing the firring strips and mudding the drywall directly on the painted block. Do I need to prep the wall besides making sure its clean? 

If I do mud to the wall, how long before the mud dries to where the drywall wont move anymore? i.e. how long do I have to sit there holding it up? Also I'm worried about it continuously drying after ive taped and sanded and possible cracks will appear.

What other issues should I be concerned about?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

What method are you planning to use to hold the drywall to the cinder block?

Most use drywall adhesive or Liquid nails-- And short cement nails driven into the mortar lines.
The glue holds it to the wall--use just enough nails to keep the sheet in place till the glue set up.
--Mike--


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## blau808 (Mar 16, 2010)

I was just planning to use joint compound in blobs every 12 inches like they do in the UK. Would that not suffice? I wanted to avoid screws if possible. So drywall adhesive is different than joint compound I take it?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I've always used adhesive--Never tried mud --I would think that the mud might get brittle over the years and give up-- Google--'DOT AND DAB' that is what the Brits call that method--

I know the subject has been discussed next door at "Contractor Talk"---Mike--


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## blau808 (Mar 16, 2010)

Yeah ive read extensively about dot and dab. They use plasterboard adhesive, which could be the same as drywall adhesive, but the stuff looks just like joint compound. Silly Brits.

Ive read the threads on Contractor Talk, but none of them really address the issue of "painted" block and using mud as an adhesive. Ive decided im going to put a few nails into the wall to support it while the mud dries.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I have used joint compound to adhere to block, though many years ago, on a job I was working hourly. The superintendent was the one who had us use mud instead of glue. It worked, but I don't know for how long and I wouldn't recommend it. I'd personally frame or strip the walls, but if you insist on applying the drywall directly to the block I'd definitely use glue. Nail at least the top and bottom of the board with short concrete nails. A few in the field won't hurt. And don't skimp on the glue. The quart size tubes of drywall stud adhesive are relatively inexpensive. (Cheaper than the smaller caulk-sized tubes in the long run.)


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## blau808 (Mar 16, 2010)

How much adhesive should I use for one 8x4 sheet of drywall?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I haven't done this often enough to recall exactly---However--I think about 1 small tube per sheet sounds about right.

If you have a bunch to install I think buying a big gun and the large tubes would be a time and money saver.--Mike--


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

I've used compound every time this had to happen. Blob every foot or so, put up agains a wall, place 2x4 against drywal, hit with BFH to flatten it up, concrete nails every 12". Haven't had a problem. Actually had to take off this type of drywalled wall once. You'd be surprised at how well it holds on.


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## kgphoto (Dec 2, 2007)

Hawaii is a very humid region. I would do the furring and insulating method.

Dot and Dab is usually done on RAW unpainted walls so the "mud" can key into the substrate. If the glue sticks well to the paint, but the paint doesn't stick well to the wall, it could all come down.


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