# Replacing Drill Press Chuck



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It should fit, that looks like a copy of a Jacobs chuck. No clue how an import copy will work out.

Keep in mind there's going to be a left hand thread screw locking that chuck in place.
Most are an allen screw. Open the chuck up all the way insert the wrench and rap it with a hammer in a right to left motion.
Once the screws out, lock the allen wrench in the jaws of the chuck. A few taps with a hammer should get it started.


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## chuck2112 (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks for the good info. I actually saw the Jacobs chuck first @ $225, then saw this knock off for $130. I have a follow up question about the mounting type. I've seen some mounting "codes" (6JT and 33JT) while doing my search. What do these mean and does it matter which one I get?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Sure does, it refures to the size of the tapered arbor that hold the chuck in place.
The JT refures to Jacobs taper since they were the standard in the industry for many years.
I'm trying to find a chart to give you an idea.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Right on the chuck you have now it should be stamped something like 5/8 33JC or whatever size arbor it takes.
http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm


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## chuck2112 (Aug 26, 2011)

It says: CF TAPER UT3
CAP 16MM 5/8



joecaption said:


> Right on the chuck you have now it should be stamped something like 5/8 33JC or whatever size arbor it takes.
> http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Should say MT or JT. Moris taper or Jacobs Taper.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Blue,
sure you want a keyless chuck in a drill press? I have two drill presses. Even thow the key takes a few seconds to change, it is definitely tighter and more secure than a keyless chuck. When I use a drill press, it is first off because I want a perpendicular hole. But secondly, it is because I'm using larger twist drills, forstner bits, wire wheels, etc. I have at least a half dozen cordless drills with keyless chucks. They work well for that but I'm not using large bits in them. Just my .02
Mike Hawkins


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## chuck2112 (Aug 26, 2011)

I looked it over again and it doesn't say anything about MT or JT. It only says CF TAPER UT3. Have you seen CF Taper before? What it means? It's from 1979, did they use different coding back then?



joecaption said:


> Should say MT or JT. Moris taper or Jacobs Taper.


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## chuck2112 (Aug 26, 2011)

I wasn't aware that keyless chucks didn't tighten as well as keyed chucks. Other than the convenience, it doesn't really matter to me which one I get, I thought they were just as good and might as well try it out since I need to replace it anyway. The most important thing to me is getting a part that I'll be happy with for years down the line. Thanks for your .02.


firehawkmph said:


> Blue,
> sure you want a keyless chuck in a drill press? I have two drill presses. Even thow the key takes a few seconds to change, it is definitely tighter and more secure than a keyless chuck. When I use a drill press, it is first off because I want a perpendicular hole. But secondly, it is because I'm using larger twist drills, forstner bits, wire wheels, etc. I have at least a half dozen cordless drills with keyless chucks. They work well for that but I'm not using large bits in them. Just my .02
> Mike Hawkins


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