# T1-11 Siding Installing flashing on wall seams



## bhollehday (Jan 30, 2015)

Got a little ahead of myself and glued and screwed the siding onto my shed. Realized after that I need to lift the siding and get the flashing behind it. Glue is preventing the flashing from going in and its going to be a pain in the ass to try and get behind the siding. Any other suggestions? I was thinking either just siliconing the siding together at the seam or any other ideas?

Thanks


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Never glue T1-11 as it has to move with seasonal humidity- hence the lap/overlap seam design for expansion/contraction. The missing WRB (tar paper min. per code) should lap over the flashing. No PT lumber? No poly under it, on the dirt to stop ground moisture from wetting the framing, OSB decking? no inspection, right?

Gary


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Seam should have been at the top of the wall not the bottom.
Rough opening should have been flashed or a jamb sill installed before the door was installed.
Siding is nailed not screwed.

Now your stuck trying to tap in a flat bar under the siding to get it out away from the studs, and removing any screws in the way.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

It looks like 9' sheets would have worked out nice there.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

coulda, shoulda, woulda, will certainly help next time.

if you can't get a flat bar driven in between the sheathing and the studs, try a sawzall with a long blade that will flex a little and cut the relief you need for the flashing.

or a multi tool (oscilleator)


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Muliti tool will just stall out but a sawsall with a long wide course tooth blade will work.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

I agree with Yodaman on the reciprocating saw. Try the pry bar first but it probably won't work.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Try chisel first, all you need is about 1/2" anyway. Coat the ends first then install the flashing with little space. I would finish it with 2x material with a flashing that fits. T1 siding will not survive well there.
Replace some of the earth with gravel and block the space with wire lathe - never allow leaves to gather under the shed. You also may want gutters - if only to protect the fence.


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## bhollehday (Jan 30, 2015)

Gary in WA said:


> Never glue T1-11 as it has to move with seasonal humidity- hence the lap/overlap seam design for expansion/contraction. The missing WRB (tar paper min. per code) should lap over the flashing. No PT lumber? No poly under it, on the dirt to stop ground moisture from wetting the framing, OSB decking? no inspection, right?
> 
> Gary


Gary, yes no inspection. Anything under 120 sq ft doesnt need one out here. Guess im screwed (literally) with the siding moving, hopefully It doesnt cause damage in the future. Is there anything I can do to help prevent it needing to expand contract? Maybe hit it with some good sealant on the inside and outside of the siding?

Ya hit myself in the head after I built the frame PT next time for sure. Can I paint the frame with something to help prevent bugs from nesting to act like a PT wood?

Whats wrong with OSB decking, would you have chose plywood then? probaly would hold up better, but its just a storage shed and I plan on just epoxy finishing the wood floor.

Should I put "poly" under it to prevent ground moisture? How do I do that and where do I get that??





joecaption said:


> Seam should have been at the top of the wall not the bottom.
> Rough opening should have been flashed or a jamb sill installed before the door was installed.
> Siding is nailed not screwed.
> 
> Now your stuck trying to tap in a flat bar under the siding to get it out away from the studs, and removing any screws in the way.


Is there anything I can do try and flash or seal up the rough opening at this stage? Or just maybe silicone the exterior trim to the siding very well?




Yodaman said:


> coulda, shoulda, woulda, will certainly help next time.
> 
> if you can't get a flat bar driven in between the sheathing and the studs, try a sawzall with a long blade that will flex a little and cut the relief you need for the flashing.
> 
> or a multi tool (oscilleator)


Thank you for some incite. Cant believe it took so many comments to finally get one. Ill be going at it with a sawzaw.



carpdad said:


> Try chisel first, all you need is about 1/2" anyway. Coat the ends first then install the flashing with little space. I would finish it with 2x material with a flashing that fits. T1 siding will not survive well there.
> Replace some of the earth with gravel and block the space with wire lathe - never allow leaves to gather under the shed. You also may want gutters - if only to protect the fence.



Im using this Z-bar flashing. Is there something else I could use that doesn't need to go 1.5" behind the upper siding pieces?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Construc...-Steel-Siding-Z-Bar-Flashing-SZB58B/202218418


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

bhollehday said:


> Im using this Z-bar flashing. Is there something else I could use that doesn't need to go 1.5" behind the upper siding pieces?
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Construc...-Steel-Siding-Z-Bar-Flashing-SZB58B/202218418




If you can not get the 1 1/2 clearance that you need, cut back the flashing with a pair of tin snips. You only need the relief where the wall studs are. Looks like you already own it, might as well use it if you can.


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

Yodaman said:


> If you can not get the 1 1/2 clearance that you need, cut back the flashing with a pair of tin snips. You only need the relief where the wall studs are. Looks like you already own it, might as well use it if you can.


More good advice. Just hold it in place and pencil the studs. The snip down as needed.

I'm guessing in SOCal you don't get a lot of rain during the year?


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## bhollehday (Jan 30, 2015)

craig11152 said:


> More good advice. Just hold it in place and pencil the studs. The snip down as needed.
> 
> I'm guessing in SOCal you don't get a lot of rain during the year?


Ya not much. If you see any send it over our way :thumbup:


Any thing i can do to try and flash around the door?


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## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

bhollehday said:


> Any thing i can do to try and flash around the door?


The top is the issue? Place your 1x across the top, pencil above it and cut in to the siding.Then run a flashing piece that goes in to the cut but doesn't turn up. To make that flashing bend you would need access to a brake. Not ideal but its what happens with chimneys. Plus you don't live in Seattle. :whistling2:


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

bhollehday said:


> Ya not much. If you see any send it over our way :thumbup:
> 
> 
> Any thing i can do to try and flash around the door?


Its a little late for flashing the door casing unless you are willing to remove it.

If not, silicone is your best friend!

Spray in between the door casing and the rough opening with low expansion foam, trim flush as necessary, Before you install the brick mold, run a bead of silicone around the edge of the door casing, and on the wall just inside of the brick mold out line. Press the the molding in and nail. Also run a bead around the out side of the molding where it meets the T-11. Be sure to fill the grooves in the T-11. You will need to keep the brick mold painted and check the silicone seal periodically.

Also a drip cap just above the door casing would go a long way toward keeping water out of the door.


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