# Need advice on enclosing a covered porch



## anglii (Feb 6, 2012)

Hi,

Any contractors out there that could give me some advice on the best way to enclose a small covered porch which already has 3 exterior walls and a roof (about 6 ft wide by 4 ft deep), in order to pass a building permit application?

This is how I planned on doing it but am not sure what the building codes are in my area:

1. Build new wall using blue water and mold resistant 2X4 studs (need every inch of space so would prefer not using 2X6 if possible, wall is not supporting anything).
2. Frame entry door and move existing door.
3. Use rigid insulation in new wall to bring up to R20.
4. Frame sub floor onto existing concrete pad/steps using same blue studs, 24" apart to fit the standard size rigid insulation.
5. Insulate roof to R60 (I live in northern Alberta).
6. Install in-floor electric heating (no space for duct work).
7. Lay tiles flush with interior floor leaving an expansion joint for any moment of the slab.
8. Need to move an electrical outlet and light too but not sure how. Maybe run conduit in the sub floor?

Thanks so much in advance for any advice you can give:no:


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need a picture of what you have now.
Why all the treated wood? If it's enclosed you only need it as a bottom plate.


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## anglii (Feb 6, 2012)

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150659166285962.458786.761215961&type=3&l=6da0c584c4The treated lumber because I wanted to tile the new wall with stone face and use cement board I have left over from another project instead of OSB or ply. It's not much to frame, with a 3 ft wide door in a 6 ft opening. Plus I didn't want to have to water proof the bottom of the studs which would be touching the concrete.

Thanks!

Before:
http://s1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh614/anglii1/?action=view&current=Cedarhouse.jpg

Possible after:
http://s1254.photobucket.com/albums/hh614/anglii1/?action=view&current=cedarhouseenclosedporch.jpg


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## anglii (Feb 6, 2012)

Is there no one out there that can tell me if my plan is reasonable or not? I'm not asking anyone to know my local building code. Just want to know if there is a better way to do it or if this would work.

Thanks!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I looked at the pictures but can not figure out what it is your trying to do.
With those strange roof lines and that type siding someone going to have a challange on there hands.
My want to have someone local take a look at it to give you some ideas.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

It appears you just want to make a front enclosed entrance. Two doors for your location. The roof-line may not be high enough to just extend it without interfering with the door height. The slab would need complete replacing for the added vapor barrier and insulation underneath for the new heated slab. Would there be enough depth to swing the new door in without being cramped in the space? 

Gary


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## anglii (Feb 6, 2012)

GBR in WA said:


> It appears you just want to make a front enclosed entrance. Two doors for your location. The roof-line may not be high enough to just extend it without interfering with the door height. The slab would need complete replacing for the added vapor barrier and insulation underneath for the new heated slab. Would there be enough depth to swing the new door in without being cramped in the space?
> 
> Gary



Hi Gary,

Thanks for your reply. I'd like to move my entrance door out. I have an interior foyer of only 43" wide by 46" deep. There is no room to take off shoes nor even let a guest in and out because only one person at a time fits into the space, especially when the door is open. The roof over the exterior entrance is straight although it appears angled in the picture due to the angle the picture was taken. There is currently 89" from the concrete step to the ceiling and a 4.5" step up into my front entrance/door which would easily allow for 2x4 studs, foam insulation and a sub floor to bring it up to the level of the interior floor. And still have room for a standard 80" high door. If need be I could cut the door down by 2".


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## anglii (Feb 6, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I looked at the pictures but can not figure out what it is your trying to do.
> With those strange roof lines and that type siding someone going to have a challange on there hands.
> My want to have someone local take a look at it to give you some ideas.



Hi Joe,

Thanks for your reply. Plz see my reply to Gary about the roof lines.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

It appears the roof is cantilevered floor joists from the house. The building inspector may want a footing/wall under the enclosing walls to give added support. I'm sure you would check with them for the required "paper trail" your H. O. Insurance carrier will want in case of a future claim and at resale. 

Gary


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## anglii (Feb 6, 2012)

> It appears the roof is cantilevered floor joists from the house. The building inspector may want a footing/wall under the enclosing walls to give added support.


The steps are on footings which go below the frost-line (about 4 ft). They were poured in 1979 so any settling would long have occurred. A front wall could only give more support to the roof since you're assumption is correct about the roof sitting on walls that are sitting on cantilevered floor joists. 



> I'm sure you would check with them for the required "paper trail" your H. O. Insurance carrier will want in case of a future claim and at resale


Absolutely, but I need to give them a viable plan with drawings etc., after which they will approve my permit or tell me how they want it done.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Many Building Departments show the requirements online- needed drawings (we don't draw them here), setbacks, etc. here is one to help you find them, the link on the right "For more information"; http://www.hpo.bc.ca/files/download/BuilderInsight/BI2.pdf

Gary


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