# Removing load bearing wall



## jjbarnes911 (Jan 7, 2009)

I am removing a 9 foot section of a 13 foot load bearing wall. Starting at the outside wall and moving towards the center of the house. What is the best way to support the house without a large over hang? 

Thank you, 
Jenn


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Some of the basics:

1. You will need a building permit.

2. You will need to get the the beam sized for the load.

3. You have several options for the beam. It is not uncommon for some of the beam to be below the thickness of the ceiling joists. There is a company that manufactures reinforced steel beams that allow you to span the length, using beams that require less thickness & width, than conventional lumber beams, or LVL beams (if the span and the load rules out LVL's). 

http://www.metwood.com/products/truspan

Their products also gives you the option to (dependant of the load and span), recess the beam into the ceiling. The beams (made out of steel), can also be ordered with wood on each side, to allow for the attachment of wood joists by standard methods (joist hangers and nails).

4. Please be aware that such a project goes way over the concept of "DIY". I encourage Home Owners to either hire a qualified Contractor/hire a qualified consultant/or make really good friends with a qualified individual...to help such a project.

5. The concept is to temorarily support the joists on each side. Then cut out a section of the joists above the wall...that will accomodate your new "sized" beam. The joists are then tied into the beam using joist hangers. The beam sizing will include the amount of support required under each end of the beam. Those supports must post proprely down to supports below.

6. You will need to confirm all apsects of such a project structurally. What is above the wall? Is it an attic with no real load? Or, is it another living level floor, with additional weight bearing down onto the same wall that is to be removed? 

Example:


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## Reilley (Sep 4, 2008)

Here is an informative article. I agree with AtlanticWBConst in that this requires bringing in a structural engineer and is typically not a task for a DIYer (although I'd do the work myself).

http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/38210/


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

I scanned thru the link. Very good illustrations and pics...


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

Reilley said:


> Here is an informative article. I agree with AtlanticWBConst in that this requires bringing in a structural engineer and is typically not a task for a DIYer (although I'd do the work myself).
> 
> http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/38210/


 I agree with Atlantic great link
I was impressed with the photos of President Obama doing the RIP out and install.:laughing::laughing::laughing: BOB


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## Aggie67 (Dec 20, 2008)

Atlantic, 

You know what I really like about that pic? The plywood sheathing on the underside of the joists (if that is plywood).


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Aggie67 said:


> Atlantic,
> 
> You know what I really like about that pic? The plywood sheathing on the underside of the joists (if that is plywood).


That is sheetrock. Old sheetrock. As you know, sheetrock is paper-faced. Paper ages and browns. Those edges are very old and aged edges of paper faced sheetrock. Yes, they are much browner than most aged sheetrock, but who knows who the manufacture was, and what was used to make the paper face. Additionally, digital cameras tend to show up staining and color variations much more so, than what the human eye perceives in actual visual presence (The cameras can exagerate the actual color difference).

BTW - I like to use digital cameras on water damaged projects, because they show staining and damage much more clearly than if you were to attempt to show the areas to someone in person (Because of the same image sensitivity that I mentioned)


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