# Dryer Vent Leaks Water



## glennonr (Apr 22, 2010)

I'm a new landlord learning quickly the only time the tenants call is when there is a problem.

Tenants moved in a few weeks ago into a duplex built in 2002. Brought their front loading washing machine and dryer matching set to use.

Units are hooked up in the basement. Duct comes off back of dryer and does an immediate 90 degree turn and shoots upward about 8 or 9 feet. Then it does another 90 degree turn and shoots out about 10 feet horizontally to the side of the house.

Tenant called me last night (after being there 3 weeks) to tell me the dryer duct is dripping water.

Tried taping the duct work with the shiny metallic like tape (UL approved). 

Tenant calls me back today to tell me the duct work is still dripping. Apparently going through the tape.

Duct work is not "secured" to wall or bottom of floor joists. It does rest on top of a few copper water pipes.

Duct work was brand new before they moved in 3 weeks ago.

My wife and I live in the opposite side of the duplex with our dryer on the other side of the wall from there. Literally probably less than a foot apart, with a similar, but separate dryer duct setup. We do not have this problem at all. And we have a dryer that is probably several years older than theirs.

I have verified that air is flowing to outside through duct work when dryer is running.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
Robert


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

condensate problem is assumed ..unless plumber was a psycho.

try separating copper pipe (bet it's the cold line) from the dryer vent duct. (add insulation) at that area at least.

Is dryer vent in a conditioned space? or insulated? where are you located? I assume duct is round and smooth...? 

Is tenant equipment new? or might be clogged and not sending moisture ladened air through the duct at full force... you are asking alot of the duct that has wet air travel the distance and layout you advise without a problem
lot's of variales to look at...

good luck


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

I would check to see that the clothes being put in the dryer have been through an adequate "spin" cycle. 
I would also check the ductwork to see that it inclined out to the exhaust, not that should be an issue with damp clothes.
Ron


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

Ron6519 said:


> I would check to see that the clothes being put in the dryer have been through an adequate "spin" cycle.
> I would also check the ductwork to see that it inclined out to the exhaust, not that should be an issue with damp clothes.
> Ron


two really good variables:yes::thumbup:


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## glennonr (Apr 22, 2010)

Dryer is in a heated concrete basement, partially finished.

Pink fiber glass insulation batts at top of foundation where foundation and floor joists meet.

Duct work is round and smooth, galvanized steel.

Geographic location is Michigan.

Tenant equipment is relatively new. Not sure of age. It's a matching set with a front load washer, so I'd assume newer than my old top loader.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

glennonr said:


> Dryer is in a heated concrete basement, partially finished.
> 
> Pink fiber glass insulation batts at top of foundation where foundation and floor joists meet.
> 
> ...


great ...we are eleminating variables... isolate copper pipe from duct..
double check pitch on duct... ask tenants to try extra spin on wash cycle..
thy may really load their to super full..? keep up the good work...


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## glennonr (Apr 22, 2010)

Once duct work hits the horizontal section there is pretty much no incline of decline for the 10 feet it needs to run to the outside.

Not sure there is much room for adjustment here. what should the pitch be on a horizontal section?

The vertical section of duct work (right after it comes out of the dryer) is also just straight up.

I may be able to post pics later tonight.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

glennonr said:


> Once duct work hits the horizontal section there is pretty much no incline of decline for the 10 feet it needs to run to the outside.
> 
> Not sure there is much room for adjustment here. what should the pitch be on a horizontal section?
> 
> ...


your pics will tell a lot...
like where it is leaking...
duct joints (where sections or coupling meet) tend to create their own slight inclines/declines. [sounded like this is where it's leaking]
as far as I know no degrees's of incline are perscribed for your application. 
rule of thumb is quickest way outside with fewest bends (elbows etc... they really slow the air flow down). 

you may need to enlist the tenants help... extra washer spin... lighter loads.. 
to help deal with the lenght of / and number of bends in the duct.

again, if copper pipe is cold water line touching your duct... this could be a catylist for condensation ( be sure to isolate this). 

this can be solved.. keep trying


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Try insulating the ducting, as mentioned. Use two 45*El's rather than a 90*El. Verify the duct termination door/hood is a 4" flapper, not three piece or a 22* partially open one: http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml Insulate around the ducting at the rim joist to keep the ducting conditioned there: http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html A picture would help...

Good read: http://www.ashireporter.org/articles/articles.aspx?id=161


Be safe, Gary


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## Goldglv (Jun 23, 2009)

I know these are usually used for longer runs of dryer duct but what about adding a booster fan in the duct? That may help to push the condensation up quicker through the vertical run, you mentioned it was 8 or 9 feet. There just may not be enough force to push up through that vertical run.


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