# Mold in corner of window frame?



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Hi, I'm a relatively new homeowner and I've got Crestline windows throughout the home (home is 40 yrs old, would guess windows are less than 10 yrs). The frames on the double hung windows are totally encased in vinyl but the horizontal double gliding windows have wood on the inside where the window slides. All of the double gliding windows have some degree of mold growing in the corners. Will this eventually rot the frame? I have wiped them out a few times but it comes right back. Is there anything I can do to prevent it (other than opening all the windows after a rain and physically drying them out?


----------



## m1951mm (Apr 16, 2011)

Have you tried a diluted solution of bleach?? Bleach will kill the mould. Make sure to rinse well after and if need be run a new bead of caulk.

I do not like to see the raw wood around the windows. Wood being a sponge to moisture I cant help but think that some sort of sealer for the wood is called for. What, I am not sure. 

I hope that someone more in the loop than I will follow up with how to seal that wood!!!!!!!!!!! I will follow this thread to see if you get an answer to that question.


----------



## mossypath (Aug 28, 2011)

_I am going to disagree with my friend Mickey._
_Bleach will not kill mold and should not be used on wood, It has been proven that the mold may come back even worse than before!_
_You can make a mix of 1/2 gal. white vinegar_
_1/2 gal. hydrogen peroxide-common peroxide available from your drugstore_
_1 cup boric acid_
_keep closed tightly_
_mix well - use in a spray bottle on a dry surface._
_Ore use a one of the products for mold such as http://www.concrobium.com/atHome_howItWorks.php_
_Check if the weep holes in your windows are open and that you have a tight seal at your window. _


----------



## m1951mm (Apr 16, 2011)

Hey Thanks your knowledge never ceases to amaze me Mossy. What would you do about the unfinished wood on the window frames??


----------



## mossypath (Aug 28, 2011)

_My guess is there is a light factory finish on the wood. What CRESTLINE used? a call to them would tell you. Why I hesitate to give a answer is the last clad windows I set the wood had more of a waxy like finish and the finishing instructions were to avoid this areas._


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

can you post a pic back farther? i cant understand why i'm seeing that wood,thats a laminated piece of wood that i don't think should be exposed


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. Tom, that was my gut reaction too. I had started to think along the lines of mossy's reply, that maybe they have some kind of light coating on them. Since they are double gliding, one of the pieces of wood gets somewhat covered by the vinyl of the window, and the piece on the other side is basically left exposed to the elements. I've got 8 of these double gliding windows in the house and all have the exposed wood (and mold). There is a groove that runs down the middle of each piece that I'd think would let the water run out. As you can see, they are clad on the side facing away from the house, and the side perpendicular to the house. Just the side facing the house is uncovered.

Here are some shots from further out, hopefully they help. (Disregard that awful fence in the background. The city is running new electricity through the yard and I don't want to get a new fence until they are done.)


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

that groove is most likely a spline that a jamb liner trim piece would lock in to


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

That makes sense...so they are likely missing that trim piece? Maybe I'll give a call to Crestline to see if they can either tell me how the window should have been configured, or what I can do to prevent the wood from getting damaged.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

http://www.crestlinewindows.com/_im...Fs/CL_VC200_GLIDING_970_PARTS_CTLG_597777.pdf

check out figure 10

hope this helps


----------



## mossypath (Aug 28, 2011)

Tom,,,:thumbsup:
:wallbash: I missed the totally encased in vinyl part and was thinking clad.
If I ever have a problem, I would want you on my side.
Thanks 



By scotty



> I'll give a call to Crestline to see if they can either tell me how the window should have been configured,


You might even email your pic’s to them.


----------



## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

likewise:thumbup:


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Looks like I know what is missing now and what I've got to do to fix it, thanks again!


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

mossypath said:


> _I am going to disagree with my friend Mickey._
> _Bleach will not kill mold and should not be used on wood, It has been proven that the mold may come back even worse than before!_
> _You can make a mix of 1/2 gal. white vinegar_
> _1/2 gal. hydrogen peroxide-common peroxide available from your drugstore_
> ...


I'd like to read about this proof that bleach will cause mold to come back even worse than before. I suspect that the "proof" is something written by a seller of some magic mold killing potion. Not only will bleach kill mold, but concentrations as low as 5% have been proven to break mold organisms into their component parts to a degree that they are no longer even considered allergens (University of Arizona, efficacy of sodium hypochlorite on fungi). Any borate treatment is highly effective against regrowth of mold organisms.


----------



## mossypath (Aug 28, 2011)

I would like to move this discussion on mold to its own thread! :thumbsup:

I would welcome your input and anyone else who wants to join in.


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I am not sure that bleach accelerates the return or mold but it certainly does not kill it as common misconceptions indicate.

You need a mildewicide to kill the mold.


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Windows on Wash said:


> I am not sure that bleach accelerates the return or mold but it certainly does not kill it as common misconceptions indicate.
> 
> You need a mildewicide to kill the mold.


Bleach is a fungicide. Sodium hypochlorite is chlorinated bleach. It will kill almost any micro-organism it comes in contact with, including most viruses and bacterias. It will not only kill molds, but break down the cells into their component parts. Not sure what a mildewcide would be, since mildew is a specific class of molds that grow on leaves of living plants. I would guess a garden shop may be able to supply a "mildewcide". I doubt it would do much to common household molds.


http://www.moldknowledge.com/bleach-hard-surfaces.htm


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I think this article is quite informative.

http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCategory.asp?idCategory=78


----------



## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> I think this article is quite informative.
> 
> http://www.spore-tech.com/viewCategory.asp?idCategory=78


There is a grain of truth in this article, but also some statements that are mis-leading. Example: The Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) who once recommended using clorine bleach for mold abatement was the first federal agency to stop recommending the use of liquid bleach in mold remediation. What would OSHA know or care about the effectiveness of mold remediation products? Their loyalties are with workers who are unprotected.

Second example: Subsequently, The Environmental Protection Agency wrote-out/edited their _A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home_ (EPA 402-k-02-003) to exclude their once recommended use of bleach as a mold clean-up agent. The EPA has no concern with the effectiveness of mold remediation products. In fact, their federal mandate is ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION. If they can reduce the creation of chloroform gases or the contamination of water produced by mis-used bleach products, then they've fufilled thier mission.

Further, the statement is made that the Clorox company is non-committal about the effectiveness of bleach. I guess they are!! They are not selling something licensed for sale as a fungicide, which would make it fall into a whole new product catagory under USDA, EPA regulations (among others).

Very few products will penetrate porous materials deep enough to completely kill deeply embedded mycelia. Even the most highly touted fungicides have disclaimers about effectiveness on porous surfaces. Read the fine print. That is why a true remediator will seal a porous surface for "lock down".

All in all, I think this guy is promoting his company and not presenting pure facts. Any properly educated mold inspector should know that mildew is a specific class of fungi and does not grow on damp building products, so why is he touting himself as a "Mold and Mildew Inspector"? Bleach may not be the best product in some cases, but it is readily available to a DIY home-owner and provided they do not go crazy with mix ratios (10% is plenty), it is effective and safe. Many things will kill mold. It isn't bullet proof. Controlling moisture is much more important than the clean up.


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Bleach is a fungicide. Sodium hypochlorite is chlorinated bleach. It will kill almost any micro-organism it comes in contact with, including most viruses and bacterias. It will not only kill molds, but break down the cells into their component parts. Not sure what a mildewcide would be, since mildew is a specific class of molds that grow on leaves of living plants. I would guess a garden shop may be able to supply a "mildewcide". I doubt it would do much to common household molds.
> 
> 
> http://www.moldknowledge.com/bleach-hard-surfaces.htm


I was referring to mold growth on porous surfaces (i.e. wood) as indicated by the original poster.

I also think that study that is funded via a grant from the Chlorox company is probably not as much separation as one would normally like to see.


----------



## scottyv81 (Dec 23, 2010)

Tom Struble said:


> that groove is most likely a spline that a jamb liner trim piece would lock in to


Hi all, just wanted to reply to Tom's suggestion about a missing piece. I sent an email to Crestline and included the pictures I posted here. This is their response:

I had your photos reviewed, you are not missing any part this should have been painted when installed. I was told that all you need to do is to clean the area, sand and prime before you paint.

Looks like the cause of the mold is just moisture coming into contact with unprotected wood. This could get interesting because it looks like I'll have to remove the tracks to fully paint the exposed wood. Thanks again to all for your help!


----------

