# Molly Bolt screw spinning



## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

18mm=.708"=slightly less than 3/4"

https://www.defender.com/pdf/metric-conversion_6-18-14.pdf


> The mollys are labeled 4x46/18, which is metric I believe


That may or may not be correct. If it is that would be the maximum thickness wall. The question is what is the minimum thickness wall that they work with?
If the wall is not thick enough the intended clamping of the wall between the head of the molly and the legs will not occur. The molly will turn in the hole and the screw will continue to turn. Not only that the molly will turn when you try to unscrew the screw and you can't take the screw out.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

This _may_ not be real encouraging , but the last time I used Mollies the threaded end snapped off (inside the wall !) . _VERY_ upsetting ! This is JMO , but they don't appear to be a reliable anchor . Not like they were 30 years ago . Again , JMO , but it is a quality control issue .

You _could_ try to bend the outer flange enough to push it into the wall & drop out of the way .

Now that you have the bigger holes in the wall , you _could_ use toggle bolts...........


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Those moly anchors are junk. I've put in tons of bath hardware with these anchors. For drywall they work well. Get the metal ones, not the nylon ones. Trick is to tighten them till the round flange seats. They drill their own hole and are easy to install. They come with their own screws, use them. Don't substitute something else. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Mollies are not intended to be expanded by tightening the screw. There is a tool that expands them to the proper point. Sample image: http://www.garrettwade.com/anchor-setting-tool.html . Over expanding can cut right through the drywall.

It sound like you may have stripped the threads or used the wrong size. Only choice is remove and redo.

The small lip that presses against the drywall can be stripped off can be removed leaving a clean small hole for your next one. Skip to about the 1 minute mark in this:


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

Until this thread came up I never heard of a tool to compress a molly bolt. Not do I see the necessity of it. All instructions I have seen from the manufacturer were to compress with the screw.

I find the video very interesting and helpful. Removing the molly with out destroying the hole seems quite possible. However, I think I would consider bending the lips of the molly up with the needle nose pliers as shown. If two sides of the lip are bent up you should be then be able to hold the molly stationary and drill the head off with a small drill bit. That approach may pose less risk of destroying the hole.

Since this is a Moen product that you are trying to mount and the anchors came with the product, perhaps you should consult Moen. I have always found Moen to be very responsive.


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## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

I like the tool , never heard of it . 
The ad says they're unavailable . It doesn't say how much they cost . :vs_worry:
Mollies _ARE_ strong (if they work ).


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

firehawkmph said:


> Those moly anchors are junk. I've put in tons of bath hardware with these anchors. For drywall they work well. Get the metal ones, not the nylon ones. Trick is to tighten them till the round flange seats. They drill their own hole and are easy to install. They come with their own screws, use them. Don't substitute something else.
> Mike Hawkins


I also like that anchor, a word of caution, when it seats, stop, do not try to over tighten or it will strip the sheet rock.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Bending both lips up, holding one and twisting off one is the way I do it. Once bent up they are easy to break off; only slightly more difficult than a piece of trim coil bent flat and straightened.

I paid about $15 for the molly popper. Amazon has a newer version for more money.

They aren't worth the expense for a casual user. Using a screwdriver and not a powered one reduces the risks of strip out or pull through.


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