# Framing a window in a load bearing wall



## Dom (Nov 28, 2007)

Good morning,
I would like to frame in a 36 x 60" window in a (2x6) load bearing wall. After searching the net I found this information on spanning that distance.

Max Span for 2 inch double headers in feet
Header Size Supporting Roof Only Supporting 1 story
2x6 (6) (4)

If this is correct, how many jack studs would you use? Also, is it a good idea to use a larger header to avoid cripple studs? Would you use 2x4 spacers in betweent he 2x6's or would it be better to nail 3 2x6's together.

Any suggestions. I do not have a picture available but I can take one if that would help


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

The span is 36" supporting only the roof?
2x6 should work but it would be a lot easier if you just fill the space with 2x. Leave room for a 2x6 trim piece on the top. 
If you're uncertain many lumberyards offer a free service to size headers.


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## Dom (Nov 28, 2007)

Clutchcargo said:


> The span is 36" supporting only the roof?
> 2x6 should work but it would be a lot easier if you just fill the space with 2x. Leave room for a 2x6 trim piece on the top.
> If you're uncertain many lumberyards offer a free service to size headers.


The span is 60" wide. Supporting roof only. Also, do you have any recomendations on temporary support while removing the 3 or 4 2x6's to install the header?


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

For temp. support you will need to find out which way your trusses run. If they are perpendicular to the wall you are cutting into you can build a temp wall out of 2 by 6 studs and a top and bottom plate or build a header and support the header with 4x4's on each end. If the trusses are parrallel with the wall you are cutting into you can lag bolt a 2x8 or 2x10 to the studs and top plate of the wall and support this 2x10 with 4x4 post at each end.


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## Kingfisher (Nov 19, 2007)

If they are parralle then its probably not bearing the roof load :laughing: 

dbl 2x6 header if the home is less than 20 feet wide 
dbl 2x8 header if the home is lees than 36 feet wide


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## slakker (May 29, 2007)

Kingfisher said:


> If they are parralle then its probably not bearing the roof load :laughing:


Is this true of hip roofs? Or are all walls load bearing in hip roof construction regardless of the truss direction? I ask because I have a hip roof and may be adding a window as well...


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## Kingfisher (Nov 19, 2007)

if its a hip roof the truss will not be parallel at the wall. They may be up until the last 4' but they should change and cross the wall. Normaly all wall are load bearing under a hip roof, but with trusses the load can be very funny and they could hold the whole hip end or only the last little bit, as in the last 4'.


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

Good call Kingfisher. guess i didn't think long enough on the question and thought more on an answer!


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## Dom (Nov 28, 2007)

Kingfisher said:


> if its a hip roof the truss will not be parallel at the wall. They may be up until the last 4' but they should change and cross the wall. Normaly all wall are load bearing under a hip roof, but with trusses the load can be very funny and they could hold the whole hip end or only the last little bit, as in the last 4'.


 
Is it okay to run electrical through the king, trimmer and cripple studs or do I need to go up through the plate into the atic and back down the other side? I am not sure if drilling holes in a 5 foot span will cause any type of structural weekness?


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## Kingfisher (Nov 19, 2007)

Are you putting the header hard up to the top plate? If not you could run the wire above it through the jacks and cripples or below also. Drilling a 5/8 hole is OK in the jacks and studs, just keep it in the center:thumbsup:


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## Dom (Nov 28, 2007)

Kingfisher said:


> Are you putting the header hard up to the top plate? If not you could run the wire above it through the jacks and cripples or below also. Drilling a 5/8 hole is OK in the jacks and studs, just keep it in the center:thumbsup:


 
No, I am using a dbl 2x8 which is slightly overkill, so I will have some space for insulation. Thanks for the info, I wanted to make sure I cross my t's and dot my i's before I start to cut. Thanks again.


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