# To dricore or not to dricore..that is the question



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

It varies depending on where you are getting it from. I would roll something over the tiles, like Ugly DryLock first, before placing the Dri-core over it. The other would be if you have no problems with water intrusion, just lay down XPS, then Plywood, then the flooring. Room would be a whole lot warmer, and plus noise would be down.


----------



## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

My homedepot which would be consider a Chicago suburb (We don't have HD in my county)

DRIcore 7/8 in. x 2 ft. x 2 ft. Aspen Subfloor Panel	$5.97 U.S. Dollar


----------



## Gloria02 (Apr 29, 2013)

Thanks guys, much appreciated. It sounds like if we did go with dricore we will just get it here. I like the idea of the xps and plywood though. We're not sure what ugly dricore is although it sounds interesting lol.


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The dricore just allows for any moisture that may get under it, to be able to go to the floor drain, and air to move under it. Only good if you get any kind of moisture in the basement.


----------



## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> The dricore just allows for any moisture that may get under it, to be able to go to the floor drain, and air to move under it.


What? :no:

Jaz


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

JazMan said:


> What? :no:
> 
> Jaz


The whole reason for Dricore, was so that if any moisture was underneath the flooring, it could dry out, along with keeping the main flooring attached to it, from contacting any water or moisture.

I am not going to post a bunch of FAQ link-overs, so if you wish to read up on it, here http://www.dricore.com/en/faquest.aspx


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

With the floor tiles intact, on the full surface asphalt emulsion bond, you don't need DRIcore. The moisture is already stopped, no need to pressure-equalize the air space/slab. (Which does little to allow wick/diffuse water go to a floor drain- rather restricts it to the specific surface rising area- unless a flowing leak or major problem which should be fixed first anyway). The science of it, similar to Fig.3; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-003-concrete-floor-problems?full_view=1

Delta-FL has the same info of "pressure equalizing" or slowing the moisture diffusion/wicking through a concrete slab, sealing the perimeter/posts/walls/drain edges hence keeping the moisture under the membrane- not in your basement air; http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/pdf/brochures/DELTA-FL_brochure.pdf DRIcore feels you should leave perimeters open; letting the room conditioning system deal with the extra moisture from the whole slab area.... hmm. Read the installation instructions to both. 

Per your location, add insulation to the floor to counter Spring/summer warm air on your cold floor (40*F) due to basement lag time of season- even with DRIcore= R-1.7 (6*F warmer = 54*F); last page- http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0309-renovating-your-basment

http://www.epa.gov/athens/learn2model/part-two/onsite/ex/jne_henrys_map.html

They make a big thing out of the low height required with Dricore (7/8") yet Delta is only 5/16" high. Add some foamboard= 1/2" (R-2.5 XPS) + 7/16" plywood (if needed- depends on finish flooring material) and the heights are about equal (+1/4") yet now Delta will give a heat flow reduction of 70% while DRIcore only 38% (nice to compare....lol). 

I did the math; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...VjgAkW8XzKgQkGg&bvm=bv.44442042,d.cGE&cad=rja

Other less expensive/better products are available (with accurate scientific facts); http://homerenovations.about.com/od/floors/tp/BasementSubfloorTiles.htm

Gary


----------



## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Greg,

If the floor has so much moisture that it's in liquid form, nothing is gonna work for long. The idea of Dricore and other similar systems, is the create an air-space where "vapor" can equalize and evaporate, and to raise the finished flooring off the cold concrete. 

Jaz


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Gary I think that the reason they want to use the DriCore, is due to that they do not know if the existing tiles have asbestos in them. That is why they are wanting to lay it down.

Jazman I am not going to argue about this, but I can agree as I have already stated twice, that DriCore was made with an air space in it. Why you want to create an argument about something that has already been stated in fact, is beyond me.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Laying foamboard then ply over the existing tiles/concrete is fine- tiles are not in the equation nor asbestos. It will not out-gas unless sanded or drilled, then inhaled. Fig. 15; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0202-basement-insulation-systems

Fig.3; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy

Page 2; "heat loss from basements": http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=deep%20ground%20temperature%20under%20a%20basement%20slab&source=web&cd=68&cad=rja&ved=0CGAQFjAHODw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.buildingscienceconsulting.com%2Fpresentations%2Fdocuments%2F2012_ACI%2520Basements%2520Ueno.pdf&ei=8T8-Uc_YFpGmqQHV9IDwBQ&usg=AFQjCNHYSKhGok1USssiYQLG5n18RR0vdA

Gary


----------



## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Greg said:


> Jazman I am not going to argue about this, but I can agree as I have already stated twice, that DriCore was made with an air space in it. Why you want to create an argument about something that has already been stated in fact, is beyond me.


Not at all. I'm not disagreeing about the air gap, I mentioned it as the main reason to use it. I'm referring to you saying this; 



Greg said:


> The dricore just allows for any *moisture* that may get under it, *to be able to go to the floor drain*,


I think that's a bit too optimistic. No one makes that claim, as far as I know. People shouldn't be encouraged to believe it's going to cure extreme dampness caused by leaks that result in enough water intrusion that it'll flow to the drains. 

Jaz


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Gloria, here is a link from my area of the country showing percentages and importance of insulation on/under the slab; "When insulation extends over the full slab area, the heat loss rate is reduced by about 37% over the un-insulated slab and 20% over the perimeter-only strategies." From page 7, here; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...voGoCA&usg=AFQjCNECXZC1m9wy16VeD-inE9VfXGqoKA

Of course that is using a different thickness/R-value....
Gary


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Jazman, no on is stating that DriCore is a remedy for properly fixing basements, but if you read the FAQ's, it states why they came up with the system that they did, for the product.

Yes, if you get a lot of water, Dricore is not there to stop the problem, but it is made to help keep the flooring off of direct contact of the concrete surface, and also allow for air movement underneath, to help keep a dry layer between the DriCore, and also helps with keeping the space warm. This is all per the manufacturer info.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Here is the link I was thinking about; "Interest in basement heat loss is not only concerned with the problem of calculating the magnitude of heat loss but also with how it affects the comfort of the basement area. In a study by Besant et al. (1982) of 14 energy conservation homes in Saskatoon in which the basement walls were heavily insulated while the floors remained uninsulated, it was found that up to 50% of the total heat loss from the homes was lost through the uninsulated basement floor. More important, perhaps, was the finding that the basements of several of these homes were unsuitable as living space because of low floor temperatures." Page 2; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNFTd1V1OUx_SYg8SFtGAAhpW2MrVA&cad=rja

Gary

PS. Greg, read my #8 again; the air pressure equalizes to keep the rising moisture at bay in the slab, restricting it's upward movement- hence a "sealed" membrane- DRIcore has it wrong; open around perimeters. There shouldn't be any "air movement" that would defeat the science of it all, IMO. Look at* #2b, 3, and 4*; http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en/pdf/install_instructions/DELTA-FL_install_inst.pdf


----------



## Gloria02 (Apr 29, 2013)

Wow, there is a lot more to take into consideration than I thought. There is no problem with moisture in the basement. One corner had, at one point before we bought, a small amount of water in one corner. Most likely because they had the downspout in that corner. Other than that the walls are in great shape. In our last house it was recommended that we put down a vapor barrier before our flooring. In this house we're thinking the 1960's tile works as the vapor barrier. But it would be nice if the floor was warmer than our last house. It stayed pretty cool down there all the time. Also since the house was built in the 60's ( and not the best built house) the floor is not perfectly level. We thought if we used dricore it would allow us to level the few spots that are slightly higher and the floor would be much warmer. If there is a cheaper way to achieve the same result I am all for it. 

Again thanks for the input. There is a lot of food for thought, especially when I love to do the dyi thing and want to do it right. Warmth is my main concern.

The insulation then plywood sounds like an awesome way to go. I'll have to check out prices.


----------

