# Can I Caulk this Flashing - Pics Attached



## bartgrometer (Aug 18, 2011)

The flashing has separated off from the brick and it is a fairly wide gap (see picture). I don't think I can get caulk to fill that large of a gap. Does anyone have a suggestion how to fix this flashing probelm. I'm a rookie DIY but this leak has to be fixed asap. The rain is coming through our ceiling.

Thanks!

BG


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Roofing cement in a calking tube


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

maybe look in to a counter flash to go over existing


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Nothing in a tube will fix that. Call a well established local roofer to take a look.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Nothing in a tube will fix that. Call a well established local roofer to take a look.


Amen, caulking is, at best, a stop gap measure. I'd have the whole flashing redone properly. Believe me, you will save thousands of dollars in the long run.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

That is a counter flashing.

Have it redone or you'll have to re caulk it every year.


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## bartgrometer (Aug 18, 2011)

Do I really need to replace all the flashing? The rest of it is in great shape. The roofing company quoted me $3200! 

BG


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

bartgrometer said:


> Do I really need to replace all the flashing? The rest of it is in great shape. The roofing company quoted me $3200!
> 
> BG


That flashing isn't installed correctly. The reason you are having trouble is that system is reliant on caulk to work. Yo'll be having this issue time and time again as the caulk fails randomnly along the length. The flashing should step flashing in seperate pieces, properly stepped, and embedded into the grout joint. here's a properly done image: http://dsbrody.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/chimney-cricket-and-flashing.gif

and

http://sss-imgs.s3.amazonaws.com/47/images/1648/5.png

showing the embedment of the flashing edge in the grout joint.

$3,200 doesn't sound absurd considering you'll need all new flashing, partial roof removal and replacement to properly install the step-flashing, grout joint raking to install embeded flashing and grout joint re-tooling to finish flashing install. Pretty labor intensive job...

_If you don't want to have it re-done correctly then have tubes of roofing cement on hand and slather those joints up good and check on them every few months._


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

are you sure it's the flashing and not the window leaking?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

.....


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

don't yell at me Ron!


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Just a little target practice. :jester:

Looks like I missed.


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## Omegaroofer (Aug 4, 2011)

Yes you can caulk it... Just make sure you re-pin the metal back because the caulk isn't suppose to hold the metal just seal the joint.. Use Vulkum, not roof cement or you will have to service it more frequently.. 

With all these responses ask yourself this... How long has it lasted so far? 

Obviously as the architect said it would be great if you had a bigger lip of metal actually in the joint itself, which is optimal. I am not sure if separate pieces is necessarily better, it is how I was taught though. That's because it is a bigger pain in the butt to do it in long sections like you have it. 
I am guessing that this may be a piece at the top, maybe got blown back or something.. And that's why, because they probably secured the metal using the head of an anchor which didn't last and the caulk wasn't enough to hold it in place. I guess I am left wondering why you have such a gap between the mortar and brick in that area as well..


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

it probably been leaking since day one:yes:


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## Omegaroofer (Aug 4, 2011)

Just checked out the pics put up as examples.. DO NOT do a one piece counter flashing/step flashing... And the only time you should have to use lead is on uneven stone work.. I would look at the schematic picture posted as an example..


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## Omegaroofer (Aug 4, 2011)

Tom Struble said:


> it probably been leaking since day one:yes:


Well then you have needed it replaced since day one and the current issue is irrelevant..


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’d be up there with a hose. If the step flashing is there and in good shape and all there is to do is replace and install the counter properly then I’m not seeing $3,200. But I aint no roofer, what do I know.

I’m a little surprised by omega’s response suggesting more goop as the fix .


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## Omegaroofer (Aug 4, 2011)

Well you do have to consider that even with new metal it is going to have to be "gooped"... The problem in this situation is the mounting..

And I would guess that with that $3200 we are talking about more flashing than just these two areas.. Also wood shake roof it is probably steep, requiring setup. Also sheets of copper are expensive now days and if you want it done right grinding out that mortar takes time..


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

Omegaroofer said:


> Well then you have needed it replaced since day one and the current issue is irrelevant..



exactly,so i guess your ''solution'' would be too


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## Omegaroofer (Aug 4, 2011)

If it all has failed then re-do it... Other then that bend and pin the metal back and caulk with Vulkum..


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## sassyconnie (May 26, 2011)

Based on the picture, I would say that it will be better if you just spend money to have it inspected by a professional builders.


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## AGWhitehouse (Jul 1, 2011)

Using a hose to find holes sounds like you'll cause more damage than you'll prevent. That crack in the brick coupled with the delaminated flashing is definately one source of water infiltration. Correctly installed step flashing requires no caulk...


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