# Use wide threshold that extends under storm door?



## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

I assume that you would be having a prehung entry door installed, and they already have the threshold installed on them. Thew new storm door should have an adjustable piece at the bottom that can be positioned to meet the entry door threshold. If the entry door is installed properly, it should be sealed where the threshold meets the brick to prevent any water from entering the home or doing damage to the structure. When you state that there is frame rot, are you talking about the door frame (the jamb)? If so, that is common with an old door and can be minimized by keeping up with the paint or installing a door with a composite or PVC jamb. Many of the newer fiberglass doors utilized this.


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## Raldem7 (Oct 4, 2014)

*threshold extender with prehung door for thick walls*

I can't find prehung doors with jambs (and sill/threshold) deep enough to fit both a storm and main door that works for houses with thick walls. 

I have read and thought about my problem some more. In order to have drainage from the entry door past the storm door, I can replace the sill plate that comes with the prehung door with a separate threshold that works with a threshold extender. Since the area is predisposed to ponding, composite trim seem smart. I've read to avoid PT since it is more prone to warping.

Thanks for helping me think this through.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need a picture!
Need a sill pan under the threshold set in a bed of silicone and window and door tape up the side.
I've never seen where a prehung door would not work unless the openings an odd ball height or width.
You can get one made for 2 X 6 walls and add jamb extension's on the inside if it's still not wide enough. Extensions need to be added to the inside not the outside.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need a picture!
Need a sill pan under the threshold set in a bed of silicone and window and door tape up the side.
I've never seen where a prehung door would not work unless the openings an odd ball height or width.
You can get one made for 2 X 6 walls and add jamb extension's on the inside if it's still not wide enough. Extensions need to be added to the inside not the outside.


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## Raldem7 (Oct 4, 2014)

The picture shows the concrete block on the inside and brick on the outside. The distance between the face of the block and brick is 12 inches. The picture shows the existing threshold resting on an ~1 inch thick board adhered to the concrete floor. Since the unfinished concrete basement floor is the same height as the exterior concrete surface, the board acts like a dam to keep water from going under the door. Whatever I do, it seems I should keep the idea of a board that acts as a dam. 

I am thinking the new inswing door would take up the first ~4.5 inches with the new storm door close to the brick facade. This creates a big gap between the enrty door and storm door. The dimensions of the masonry/brick opening is 39 7/8 x 81 7/8.

I think I have two things going on. A thick wall and an interior/exterior concrete surface at the same level (ugh). Any different thoughts on keeping water out and avoiding rot/mold.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Something looks messed up there, keep in mind where not there and only have one close up to look at.
Where's the wooden buck to mount the door to? Looks like they just attached the jambs to the brick and block.
Where's the brick moulding to trim it out?
Looks like someone just screwed the screen door frame to the brick.
I'd be using PVC lumber under the door set in a bed of silicone , not wood.
http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...pvt=installing+door+with+brick+wall&FORM=VDRE


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## Raldem7 (Oct 4, 2014)

*pvc floor pad and wood buck questions*

I think I am visualizing how to handle the install of new door framing, prehung door, and storm door. I have a bit of 3/4 inch thick PVC paneling left over from another project. If this PVC board goes under the door, should it be cut to fill the entire width (39 7/8 inches) and depth (12 inches) of the floor of the masonry opening? 

The PVC board would be adhered to the concrete floor with silicone based adhesive. The wood bucks, prehung door assembly, and storm door would be installed above this PVC board. Would the wood bucks (on sides and top) be installed continuously the entire 12" depth of the wall opening to mount the prehung door and storm door? In practice, it wouldn't need to be continuous, but the bucking would look better if continuous.

With or without a threshold extender that goes under both the entry door and the storm door to the outside, I think this will be a major improvement.

Ralph


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Still have no location, no pictures under the room, inside, or outside.
There's a whole big picture to look at when your dealing with a musty smell.
No gutterers.
Grade not sloping away from the foundation.
Foundation not sealed outside.
Grade lower under the room then the outside grade.
Mulch pilled up against the foundation.
Siding and sheathing never should be closer then 6" to grade.
Adding electric baseboards is going to do nothing but add to your power bill.


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