# Painting interior doors



## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

I am replacing 15 interior doors in my house.I tried using semi gloss latex paint on one door with a Purdy brush and can't hide those brush marks.I thought about spraying them. I have my own 6hp 33gal 150 psi compressor.Any suggestions on a good spray gun? Is the Ingersoll-Rand 270 G HVLP a decent gun or junk? http://www.irtools.com/lowes/270g.html
I need an education here.Tip size to spray doors is? One guy said he sets his nozzle pressure with a 0-60 psi gauge by the handle and takes it off.This is all new to me. I have shot ceilings in my house but never sprayed paint on anything.Help!I want all my hard work hanging pre hung doors to look nice.Paul


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## wfischer (Dec 29, 2007)

What brand of paint are you using?


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

*Brand of paint*

I am using Behr Premium Plus semi gloss enamel from Home Depot. I can use another brand if thats what it takes.


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

That is absolutely the wrong kind of sprayer for your project and your type of paint
Unfortunately this is not a project for your compressor

You want to rent an "airless"

I'd suggest a better grade of paint also
I've sprayed the Behr and it's just not that good
Easy to sag, too many coats to cover

(Also does not level out brush marks well...hmmmm....)

I'd suggest the premium Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams lines (Regal/Cashmere)
Or even better a nice waterborne enamel from either (BM Waterborne Impervo/SW Waterborne Pro Classic)


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

*brush marks*

Will these better quality brands of paint you are suggesting hide brush marks well enough to give these doors a quality look?

I'd suggest the premium Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams lines (Regal/Cashmere)
Or even better a nice waterborne enamel from either (BM Waterborne Impervo/SW Waterborne Pro Classic)


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## wfischer (Dec 29, 2007)

I made the mistake of buying Behr, and I can definitely say that everything I painted with a brush has brush strokes... some have to be looked at very closely to be seen, but they're there. Unfortunately, I haven't had the money to go try out a better quality paint, yet.


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

Have you tried Floetrol? Evens out latex paint for brushing.If Oil is used then Penatrol is the go to product.These products are made by Flood.
http://www.flood.com/flood/


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Will these better quality brands of paint you are suggesting hide brush marks well enough to give these doors a quality look?

If the brush marks are already there you will need to sand them out, the paint will not hide them,and get far away from Behr, as far as you can.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

*brush marks*

I also figured out that when I was using latex paint every so often while I was painting a door I would clean the brush thoroughly with soap and water, shake it out good and it created less brush marks. When the bristles were constantly clogged with paint it was harder to work with.
On an earlier post someone suggested Ben Moore / Sherman Williams lines of paint ( Classic/Regal ). And then they said even better is a nice waterbourne enamel from either ( BM Waterborne Impervo/SW Waterborne Pro Classic )Does anyone know if Classic /Regal is a step below Waterborne?


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

You can use the most expensive paint on the shelf.But, if it is a spray smooth finish your looking(Via Brushing) for as I posted, try out flood conditioners.They will keep you from getting dish pan hands from all that unnecessary washing of your brush.You should be using a new to newer brush any way. Also as mentioned, sand out all the brush marks you already have and start again.I have used flood products for a few decades now and they work! The only other way to get what you seem to be looking for is to spray your doors.Airless sprayer! It would seem to me that 15 doors which equates to 30 sides not to mention all the jams and trim,that I personaly would have gone with a sprayer.To each their own I guess.Good Luck.


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## mikebal (Feb 27, 2008)

Silly question here, did you apply two coats? I painted some new masonite bifold doors with Behr semigloss that was leftover from another job. One-coat coverage was not 100% but the second coat was perfect.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

*brushing versus spraying*

I really think I need a better brand of paint then Behr after listening to some of the responses here. I did use the Floetrol and it helped even with the Behr. Does everyone recommend using the Floetrol exactly as the directions say or add a little more?
These doors I am installing are sold in Home Depot made by Masonite and called the Bellagio. They are housed next to the ever popular 6 panel models. Any way the trim set on each side of the door is raised which I really like because the look is different and eye catching in the house. So I want the finish to look as clean as possible with as few brush marks as possible. I am going to try the SW Pro Classic semi gloss latex paint.
I am new to installing pre hung doors meaning I am slow. I don't feel like waiting to get them all hung and then paint so I am painting as I go. That is why I don't go airless but who knows maybe I will get tired of brushing and spray them. For now as long as the Lakers are winning I can paint a door while I watch the game.


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## End Grain (Nov 17, 2007)

I know you used a Purdy brush but not every expensive brush made for latex or "all paints" paint will do a good job with enamels. The problem may be that your brush's bristles are too soft and not releasing the paint as you go. Try a Wooster brush or a Dunn-Edwards brush that is specifically designed for painting with latex enamels. You will notice a big difference right away. The bristles are stiffer (firmer) and they don't splay out as much so you do not drag across the finish nearly as much.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

*Mike*

I did apply 2 coats. But as you read here from others you get what you pay for. It sounds like Behr is not the choice to use. I am going to try a quart of SW Pro Classic. As funny as this may sound these doors I bought make the whole house look nicer versus the original flat doors that came with the place. The raised trim gives the door some character.And the satin nickel hinges and door knobs just help bring the house into this century.But what do I know. Call me vain but when I am standing in front of the door and I see these brush marks I feel like all my hard work installing them went out the window so if the pro Classic paint can reduce the brush marks to a point that I can live with it then my life is complete.Call me shallow. LOL


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

*Thanks End Grain*

I will try a new brand of brush


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

I have hardly ever used Floetrol by the directions.It all depends on humidity/heat/or lack of heat.There is a just right amount when you apply paint and it flows together.No streaks,No pulling,or just plain falling off the material being painted.But I always use a little and go from there.Better to not have enough than to have to much.In this case any way.Brushes are key.This would be a good go to brush,a XL 3.5 inch 
http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/series/detail/12 
Or maybe a nylox bristle 3.5 or 4 inch http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/series/detail/6
Can never go wrong with a nylon/poly mix.The angled tip(or sash brush) is great for cutting in like say a raised panel door.Lets not forget the milwork as well.Great brush for windows to.Are you rolling out the larger areas of your door or just brushing it all out? If your not using a roller then maybe one might be of help to you.I would use a 3/8 to 1/4 inch nap roller.http://www.purdycorp.com/catalog/covers/detail/7 Roll out the big areas then feather it flat.I would then cut in the edges and cut in any panels.

Good Luck


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

Mark,
Duh,I didn't even think of using a roller on these doors.It would seem after sanding off the old brush marks the roller would do most of the coverage with hardly any brush marks showing and finish the rest with a brush.I have narrow width rollers here with the proper nap. Any suggestions on the material the roller should be made ? I suppose like the brushes there better rollers out there to buy and use. "End Grain" suggested a different brand of paint brush but once again if a roller covers most of the door then the brush will see limited use.This is a great site. Thanks for everyones help.Keep the suggestions coming


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

Pawl"End Grain" suggested a different brand of paint brush but once again if a roller covers most of the door then the brush will see limited use.[/quote said:


> Pawl,Your back brushing with a brush.Wouldn't it seem that if your looking for the best result, that a good brush should be used? As for the roller,Lambswool IMO is as far up the material pinnacle you can get for a roller skin. They are a bit on the pricey side but if taken good care of will last the test of time.I posted a link there as so you may see what I am talking about.The link also gives out the size in both nap and length of roller.If you do go with a lami or any other material, be sure to take a piece of duct tape and wrap it 1/2 way around the roller skin and work it back and fourth as to get any little particles off the nap before you use it. If the price of lami roller skins keep you from buying,then a 3/16 to 1/4 inch nap roller will work well.Mohair blends are a good choice.Again a bit on the pricey side.
> http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster_Mohair_Blend_p/r207.htm
> Or maybe try a foam skin
> http://www.thepaintstore.com/Wooster_Pro_Tiz_p/r265.htm
> ...


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

Mark, ramble away. I have not painted yet. Do you still feel a good brush will do a better job than a roller? 
On the bright side I purchased a gallon of the SW Pro Classic semi gloss enamel /waterborne interior acrylic for $34.01 instead of $47.23 because the salesman let me use one of the accounts there belonging to someone else.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

I knew I forgot to ask one more thing. The guy at the paint store did not think I needed to add Floetrol to this Pro Classic Paint. In fact he didn't even know what it was until I pointed over to the shelf 5 feet away from him to show him what it was.The store was not that big meaning they are supposed to specialize in selling paint and should know something about everything they sell. He could have been fairly new.Suddenly his credibility went out the window. I an under the impression that the extender Floetrol gives me more wet time. So using it in the Pro Classic would make sense.Any thoughts?


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## End Grain (Nov 17, 2007)

*Pawl*, in addition to retarding the drying time, I find that Floetrol helps enamels to level out much faster and more evenly. Here in AZ, the majority of housepainters spray and therefore thin the paint down accordingly. I only use a brush and roller so it's more than difficult to paint inside in constant AC or outside in 100+ temperatures as any latex paint out of the can dries too quickly and the enamels are prone to leaving high spots, brush marks and lap marks. Floetrol is the only thing that I have found works well with brush and/or roller without affecting or compromising the fit or finish of the paint itself. I get nice, smooth consistent results from it. But again, I'm not painting entire rooms or houses. I'm doing small-to-medium touch-ups or, like you, a door and frame here or there. Occasionally, I get the accent wall. :laughing:


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

Here we go again !!! Can someone tell me what a foam roller is all about . The guy at Sherman Williams said they recommend painting doors with a 4" or 6" foam roller.


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

The 4 to 6 inch roller, might be length. I really couldn't imagine using a nap that thick for doors......


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## boddah (Dec 10, 2007)

latex always has brush strokes. Flotrol or thinning with water will help give better flow. Airless with a small tip 210 will give a great finish but touch ups with brush and roller are imposible.


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

Okay everybody,
Heres what I ended up doing. Brush marks were my problem.I decided to roll the paint on with a 4" wide small roller. The mini one not the 2" diameter one. I sanded off the old paint on two doors I initially painted with a brush. What a pain.I just could not stand looking at these nice doors with brush marks all over the place. I just got it smooth enough on those two doors so you can't see the brush marks.These doors I bought are those pre hung Bellagio interior doors made by Masonite from Home depot. 
Click here: Palazzo Series Doors <------
I painted the raised trim on the doors with a 1.5" brush and then I carefully rolled the rest of the door. Two coats. I was slow and methodical because I want it right and I was practicing patience.I primed everything.I went over the doors with 400 and 600 sandpaper between coats to keep the tiny lumps and everything else floating in the air off.The finish with the roller appears to be a light light orange peel that if you step one foot away it all looks really nice.I put satin nickel door knobs on with satin nickel hinges.It really gives the house more character.I want to thank everyone for their input and I have to go because I have eleven more to install. SW Pro Classic waterbourne interior acrylic semi gloss enamel.Even the guy at the paint store sold me the paint cheaper on someone elses account as long as I was cash or credit card. Yeah! Thanks again


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

The doors I purchased are already primed with what appears to be a latex primer. Does everyone still recommend priming the doors again before I use the SW Pro Classic. If so what kind of primer do I use oil or latex? Can I paint over the oil base primer with Pro Classic acrylic enamel?


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## Pawl (Mar 5, 2008)

I am back again. The mind is a terrible thing to waste. What advantages are there to using oil primer over latex primer and vice-versa.


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

Oil with stands the test of time. Time after time after time................:thumbsup:


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## shasta37 (Feb 16, 2008)

*Brush marks*

A random thought, but for vertical surfaces (like a door) painting before installation with the item in a horizontal position would enlist the aid of gravity in leveling out the paint. Maybe?

IME, for a *really level finish, as mentioned, nothing beats an unused quality brush, and a never opened can of paint.

I'm learning that the more you open and close a can of paint it starts to become difficult to work with. Guessing here that the driers evaporate and that new spreadability quality rapidly disipates. Good luck on that 3 yr. old half gallon in the storage shed with the rusty rim on top.

Never used Floetrol, but it's high on my immediate list...

*I'm an amateur DIYer and I try not to further handicap myself by using poor materials and tools.*


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