# Help with dash lights



## diyntn (Apr 8, 2009)

I'm restoring my original 1981 Toyota Pickup. 








Here is the dash before. I know it looks pretty well lit but it's not. Something isn't right. The speedo light is perfect. But the other side is just barely lit. I think my phone adjusted the lighting. It doesn't look that good or I'd not worry with fixing it.
I got new LEDs in today and have put them in all 11 sockets. (one was empty)
I tried them with the old twist housings and some with the new twist housings. But it still looks the same. Maybe even more dim on the left side.
Any thoughts? 








Gauges work fine. It's getting connection and power or they wouldn't be working.
The red engine light comes on when cranking, etc.
It's the left side that doesn't look right. Very dim. Dimmer is all the way up.
Just one of those things that bugs a guy.,..
Again, my phone made them look bright. They're not.
Thanks.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Might disassemble the cluster , and clean any dirt out of the area, with an open hole, something could have gotten in there and clouded up the inside of the housing.

Was going to suggest new bulbs , but re-read new L E D'S. 

Also check all the contacts for continuity, that is clean any residue from the contact points to insure proper current flow.


ED


----------



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,... 'n pay particular attention to the _Grounds_,....


----------



## diyntn (Apr 8, 2009)

de-nagorg said:


> Might disassemble the cluster , and clean any dirt out of the area, with an open hole, something could have gotten in there and clouded up the inside of the housing.
> 
> Was going to suggest new bulbs , but re-read new L E D'S.
> 
> ...


Thanks.
Here's what's going on now and I'm sort of even more confused. lol


With both the NEW and the OLD twist in connectors NO LEDS WORK> These LEDs are new and the specs say they will fit my year model. THIS is what I bought. I even bought another at an Autozone (paid 10 bucks for one) to test and it doesn't work in either connector either.


 The old original bulbs work better in the new connectors, which tell me the connectors were the problem, just not making good contact anymore.

So, being that the connectors seem to be the problem and the new ones can correct the dimness, I can replace the old bulbs with new bulbs and probably be ok.

My questions are:
#1; why do NONE of the LED's work when I know other guys have replaced, in the same model truck, LEDs and they work fine.
#2; Saying I'll go back with the original bulb, what number is the bulb? The numbers have all worn off. 168?

Thanks


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

# 1: Are not making good contact, either inside the "twist socket", or socket to cluster assembly.

#2. Should be in a tech manual somewhere, try a Chilton's manual printed close to the same date as the truck was made.

Older Chilton's have better information than the new ones, They got lousy after the original owner passed away and his heirs screwed up the publication.


ED


----------



## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Fuse? I have seen fuses marked dash light. You need to probe sockets for presence of 12V.


----------



## diyntn (Apr 8, 2009)

Thanks folks
Ok, I got it all fixed. After being told the LEDs were polarized, I didn't know that, I took all of them out.
Hooked up the cluster with a spot that I could get my hand in and tested each of them. I used the left turn signal slot because it was convenient.
I had to flip more than half of the LEDs in the new connectors for them to light up in that turn signal slot. So then I had 10 working LEDs.
I put them all back in the cluster but some of them still didn't work.
So, I took the cluster back out, took them all out and LIGHTLY sanded each copper or brass or whatever it is around each of the holes that they screwed into.
Put them all back in and badabing...they all work now.
Thanks again for all the help and suggestions.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Great accomplishment.

Next time use EMERY CLOTH instead of sandpaper to clean the contact points.

Takes less material off those flimsy plastic traces.

Great job, I hope that your restoration goes as well.


ED


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Apply at Toyota because they could use your expertise. In daylight hours my 2016 Tundra instrument panel looks like your first picture and with the sun/light at certain angles it gets worse.


----------



## diyntn (Apr 8, 2009)

Before and after...
Huge difference.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yea, now you might even see paradise by them. :devil3:


ED


----------



## diyntn (Apr 8, 2009)

de-nagorg said:


> Great accomplishment.
> 
> Next time use EMERY CLOTH instead of sandpaper to clean the contact points.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ed, it's going like this:


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Great, it's in better shape than I expected, been well taken care of.

It will be a great little recreational transport.


ED


----------



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> So, I took the cluster back out, took them all out and LIGHTLY sanded each copper or brass or whatever it is around each of the holes that they screwed into.


Ayuh,.... Amazin' ain't it,... A molecule thickness of unseen corrosion can stop electrical flow,....

I run into this _All_ the time at iboats,....
Folks just don't get it, that metal contacts have to be _shiny metal Clean_ to work properly,....


----------

