# Thermostatically controlled light socket?????



## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

Hello all,

My wife and I live in rural NW Tennessee. Our water is supplied via a well. BTW, this is not about the well or the plumbing to it! :thumbsup: Our well has an above ground water holding tank and one of those silver colored, insulated, metal boxes over it. When we bought this place (about 5 years ago), there was a light bulb that hung directly over the water outlet pipe that comes from the holding tank. The bulb was in place to provide heat and keep the pipe from freezing. The socket has two wires comming from it (black & white) that are hard wired into 110v in the well switch. There is no thermostat in place... and, never has been. But, the light would come on when the temps dropped below XX degrees and turn off when the temps rose above XX degrees. I liked this because it kept the temps from getting too high inside the "box" during the daytime. And, it made lightbulbs last much, much longer.

For lack of a better term, I will refer to the socket as a thermostatically controlled socket! 

This year, the thermostatically controlled socket stopped working. The light stays on all the time... reguardless of the temp. And, it's burning through light bulbs quicker than a tractor-trailer burns through diesel! :furious: I have hunted high and low at the local stores (Home Depot, Lowes, Rural King, Tractor Supply, and others) and am unable to find another one. I've called several plumbing supply and "well" places and ask about them. Everyone tells me that they never heard of such a thing. Yet, I have one!! :huh: I have even gone back to the original owners of this property... the ones who had the well put down. But, the husband is deceased, and the wife doesn't have a clue as to where her husband got the thermostatically controlled light socket! 

Can someone on this forum please tell me where I can find one of these thermostatically controlled light sockets???? :confused1: If you can, I would be forever in your debt!! :thumbsup:

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

Robert


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

I am not familiar with the socket you speak of. My only advice would be to install a line thermostat. Basically just a one/two contact t-Stat that turns the light on when the temp drops. You set the temp.
I have one in my basement that I think will work. If you can pay the shipping (COD) I would send it to you. Let me be sure it is what you need first.


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

J. V. said:


> I am not familiar with the socket you speak of. My only advice would be to install a line thermostat. Basically just a one/two contact t-Stat that turns the light on when the temp drops. You set the temp.
> I have one in my basement that I think will work. If you can pay the shipping (COD) I would send it to you. Let me be sure it is what you need first.


Thanks, J.V.! If you have it, and it is what I need, I will gladly pay the shipping for it!! :thumbsup: Just let me know if it is what I need. And, let me know what the shipping will be to 38201.

Thanks again,
Robert

P.S.
Please let me know if PayPal will be acceptable to you!


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

Easier than PayPal would be going to your local UPS store and purchase a pre-paid shipping lable. You just need the weight of the item+box, and the zip of the origin and destination. Then just send the pre-paid label by first class mail.


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

KE2KB said:


> Easier than PayPal would be going to your local UPS store and purchase a pre-paid shipping lable. You just need the weight of the item+box, and the zip of the origin and destination. Then just send the pre-paid label by first class mail.


It's true that it might be easier for some folks to do it this way. But, I live out in the sticks! :laughing: And, the closest UPS store is about 40 miles (one way) away from me! It would be easier to go to the local post office and get a money order than it would for me to do the UPS stor thing. Plus, snail mail is soooooo slow! And, PayPal gets to the payee in a snap. Heck, I'd even be willing to pay the PayPal fees... if J.V. doesn't mind accepting it.

But, thanks for the input!

Robert


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

I will check the T-Stat. PM me with your mailing info......John
Ps....It does not weigh much. No problem with the shipping either (if it will work) that is.


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Robert,
The t-stat is a Honeywell T651 A 2028.
120/208/240/277
Range 35 degree - 95 degree.

This is designed to be installed inside. If you can protect it in a weather proof box it will work for you. It's a wall mount. I think it's overkill for your application. But, It has been sitting around forever and I have no use for it. It is in the original box with all the instructions. It cannot get wet or damp. If you can use it let me know. I will test it first. I have to take my wife to the doctor now, so it will be this afternoon before I can reply.....John


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

John,

Thanks for all you are doing! Unfortunately, the site will not allow me to send you a PM. It says that I have to have made 20 posts before before being allowed to PM. Though I'm sure I understand the reasoning behind such a "rule," it still kind of stinks... JMHO!

So, instead of sending my mailing info in a PM, I'll have to ask you to either email me at: "beebiz at charter dot net" Or, if you are willing to post your email address, I will send my mailing info to you that way. Sorry for the extra inconvenience to you. But, you know they say, "No good deed goes unpunished!"

Like you, I think the Thermostat is a bit of an overkill for my particular application. But, I'd still like to use it. About the only two other alternatives I have are: 1. Continue replacing light bulbs every few days :no: or, 2. Buy a costly 2 outlet plug that I have found that is thermostatically controlled. And, I'm afraid that the plug won't last long. :no: I've already got a weatherproof box that I can put the thermostat in. It is one that I used to contain my indoor electric fence charger when it was mounted on the outside of my building. Now, *that's* overkill!! :laughing:

I hope everything goes well for your wife at the Dr.'s office! Please let me know what you decide to do.

Thanks a bunch,
Robert


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Robert, I just checked it and it works fine. Caution: This t-stat is designed to be attached to a switch box. It's designed to be used indoors. It has a wall mounting plate. The only way you can use this outdoors is to to put it under a roof or inside a weather proof box. If you have a well house that would be great. You could mount it in there.
My email is [email protected].
Look for it (web search) with the part/model number I gave you. Make sure you can use it safely. No moisture!!!!
I'm outa here for the next few hours.


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

John, I sent my mailing address to you.

Thanks again,
Robert


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

There are heating cables designed to wrap around pipe, to keep it from freezing!
Mine has a built in thermostat that is set to come on at 33F. The standard, U grd plug has a neon power indicator built in.
Cost me about $15


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

Wildie said:


> There are heating cables designed to wrap around pipe, to keep it from freezing!
> Mine has a built in thermostat that is set to come on at 33F. The standard, U grd plug has a neon power indicator built in.
> Cost me about $15


Thanks Wildie. I know about those heating cables and heat tapes. I have three problems with them. First, I've had two friends whose mobile homes burned to the ground as a direct result of using them.  Second, I too live in a mobile home!  And, third, in 2003, I came within about 60 seconds of dying in a house fire (though not because of those cables)!!  Don't mean to be ugly, but I just ain't temptin' fate like that again!!! :no::no::no:

But, thanks anyway! :thumbsup:

Robert


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

beebiz said:


> Thanks Wildie. I know about those heating cables and heat tapes. I have three problems with them. First, I've had two friends whose mobile homes burned to the ground as a direct result of using them.  Second, I too live in a mobile home!  And, third, in 2003, I came within about 60 seconds of dying in a house fire (though not because of those cables)!!  Don't mean to be ugly, but I just ain't temptin' fate like that again!!! :no::no::no:
> 
> But, thanks anyway! :thumbsup:
> 
> Robert


 These seem to be valid reasons thats for sure! 

I wonder if in fact these were a direct result of these cables or a direct result of misuse!

My mother, a paraplegic had an electric blanket that started to burn while she lay in bed. It was very terrifying for her.
Fortunately, my father came in, and saved her!

I mention this, as all our appliances have potential dangers!


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

Thank God above for your father!! I had a neighbor who noticed our house on fire, kicked the door down, and woke me up. We both ran out the front door, jumped off the porch, ran about 6 steps, and I turned just in time to see the roof cave in on the house!! TOOOOOOOO close!!

I know that all appliances pose dangers. While in bed one night, lightening ran in through the TV cable, jumped the fuse, blew the picture tube out, and caught the living room on fire. Thank goodness the noise woke them up. One of my brothers had a fire start from his dryer. It was a result of the vent hose being bent and lint building up. Thank goodness they were at home and it happened a couple of hours before they went to bed!

And, I know that impropper installation of electrical things will most always spell T-R-O-U-B-L-E!! If I had not helped with the intallation of the heat cables, and did not know for sure that they were installed properly, I would have thought improper installation might have been the culprit. But, both were installed properly. The FD rulled it a faulty heat cable.

Thanks agian :thumbsup:,
Robert


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

If your going through a light bulb in just a couple days.
You got more trouble then a bad thermostat.


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

try local www.grainger.com for this control http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...=Go!&QueryString=2e535&submit.x=28&submit.y=7


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## Gigs (Oct 26, 2008)

beenthere said:


> If your going through a light bulb in just a couple days.
> You got more trouble then a bad thermostat.


Not really, incandescents are only rated for 1000 hours or so, that's only a few weeks.

I just wonder what he's going to do after the incandescent light bulb ban goes into effect in 2013.


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## Gigs (Oct 26, 2008)

biggles said:


> try local www.grainger.com for this control http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...=Go!&QueryString=2e535&submit.x=28&submit.y=7


Grainger doesn't sell to normal people. You have to have a corporate account.


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

beenthere said:


> If your going through a light bulb in just a couple days.
> You got more trouble then a bad thermostat.


Sometimes, a light bulb might only last a couple of days. Other times, it might last two weeks. But, most seem to last only somewhere in the week range.

My wife's nephew is a licensed electrician. I talked to him about it. He came over and checked everything out for us and said he could find no problems. He told me to remember that some bulbs are stronger (last longer) than others. Beyond that, he said that the best he could figure was that when the light bulb stayed on all day when the temps got extra warm, the intense heat inside the well house weakened the filament, causing the bulb to blow quicker than it normally would.

I'm not an electrician, so I don't know. But, it made sense to me!

Robert


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Intense heat in the well house???

If its that intense, you'd have other things burning up.


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## beebiz (Nov 25, 2008)

beenthere said:


> Intense heat in the well house???
> 
> If its that intense, you'd have other things burning up.


Yes, intense heat is what was said. Not 1000 degree, 1500 degree and so on type of intense heat. But, I do know that at this time of the year when we can have temps in the teens at night (need the heat from the bulb) and in the 60's or 70's during the day, the sun shining on the metal casing of the well house, plus a 100 watt light bulb burning inside has raised the temp inside to over 125 degrees... don't know just how high... my therm. only goes to 125... and it was *pegged*!! That was the intense heat that my wife's nephew was refering to.



Gigs said:


> I just wonder what he's going to do after the incandescent light bulb ban goes into effect in 2013.


To be frank with you, I'll probably be dead by then!

Alright, John was kind enough to to ship the thermostat to me. And, I believe that it will fix my problem. So, thank you all for your input... but, I'm done with this thread! :thumbsup:

Robert


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

They keep the lights on 24/7 in hot boxes, that exceed 140°F.
And last far longer then a week.


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

There is one trick I done few time in some of the pump house I used the 240 volt bulb.,, I know they are pretty hard to find it but it last almost forever or you can wired two lightbulbs { 120 v each } in series and it will last very long time I know it will be dim but if used right size it will act like heater.

Merci,Marc


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## TazinCR (Jun 23, 2008)

Home Depot at one time sold a temp. controlled outlet.


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## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

The Honeywell Winter Watchman is an old standby for exactly what you are looking to do. 
It is a plug in lamp module that turns on a lamp when the temp drops below a certain level. It is typically used for summer homes so that a full time neighbor can see that if a certain lamp is on the temp has dropped too low.
You can also use it to turn on a light for heat as in your situation.
The only draw back is the 120 watt maximum load.

Honeywell CW200A1032 Winter Watchman


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

beebiz said:


> Sometimes, a light bulb might only last a couple of days. Other times, it might last two weeks. But, most seem to last only somewhere in the week range.ert


Have you been able to measure the voltage the light bulb is actually getting? I doubt that the room temperature or the light bulb's being on 24/7 is responsible for burnouts every few days or weeks.


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## biggles (Jan 1, 2008)

all graingers sell over the counter to DIYers if yours doesn't find out whythey are not toooo technical behind the counter so you have to know what you want.


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## mentock (Nov 26, 2011)

*Did you have any luck?*

Hi, Robert, did you have any luck finding a thermostatically-controlled socket? I need one for an infrared light in our chicken house. You'd think that since they make such outlets, they would have clued in, but can't seem to find one. Thanks!


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/DAYTON-Line-Voltage-Control-1UHG6


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