# How can I mount a bench vise onto a tool chest?



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... I can see 3/8" carriage bolts up from the bottom of the wood panel holdin' a vise,....


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## MidnightNarwhal (May 4, 2017)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... I can see 3/8" carriage bolts up from the bottom of the wood panel holdin' a vise,....


I don't quite understand your reply hahaha...


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## MidnightNarwhal (May 4, 2017)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... I can see 3/8" carriage bolts up from the bottom of the wood panel holdin' a vise,....


If I understand correctly, thing is, I don't think you can remove the wood panel, doesn't seemed screwed in compared to the Milwaukee bench... but that one is 850$...


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... How big a vise are ya thinkin',..??

A typical 3" or 4" is held down by, usually 4 bolts,...

Carriage bolts have flat heads, less intrusion into whatever is under that wooden piece,...
They could be counter-sunk if necessary, for a flush bottom, 'n a vise on top,...


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> If I understand correctly, thing is,* I don't think you can remove the wood panel, doesn't seemed screwed in* compared to the Milwaukee bench...


Ayuh,.... Somebody put it together, You can take it apart,....

Only the degree of difficulty changes with various manufacturin' techniques,...


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## MidnightNarwhal (May 4, 2017)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... Somebody put it together, You can take it apart,....
> 
> Only the degree of difficulty changes with various manufacturin' techniques,...


Yeah, with some type of adhesive?

But now that I think about it, it may be simply fastened from underneath? 

Originally making this post, I figured it couldn't be removed.


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## MidnightNarwhal (May 4, 2017)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... Somebody put it together, You can take it apart,....
> 
> Only the degree of difficulty changes with various manufacturin' techniques,...


I was looking at a 6inch or 4inch bench vise like this

Still not sure what to go for


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

> Yeah, glued on with some type of adhesive?


No clue,....

I'd _Guess_ screwed from below,....


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

MidnightNarwhal said:


> I was looking at a 6inch or 4inch bench vise like this
> 
> Still not sure what to go for


 Go with the 4",... That 6" is a Huge vise,...

Much more "Heavy Duty" than yer roll-around,...


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

With carriage bolts fasten the vise to a piece of 3/4 plywood about 8 or 12 inches square. Counter bore the carriage bolt heads flush with the bottom of the ply. Then paper joint glue the plywood to the bench top. If it ever needs to be removed it can be done with a butcher knife by splitting the Kraft paper thickness in half and there won't be any holes in the bench.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

There's two options for you, here is a third, drill thru the wood top and the sheet metal top too and run the carriage bolts up from inside the cabinet. 

I agree the 6 is too big for this application


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Yodaman said:


> There's two options for you, here is a third, drill thru the wood top and the sheet metal top too and run the carriage bolts up from inside the cabinet.
> 
> I agree the 6 is too big for this application


That's certainly the best way to do it. The top tray of the box can be removed completely to give you room to work inside of it, you may even have to remove a couple of the drawers to give you sufficient space to work. If you don't attack it thru the sheet metal it won't be stable when doing heavy work.


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## MidnightNarwhal (May 4, 2017)

Ok. So I know my next question is pretty newbie here but, is there any risk for rust to be induced since I'm drilling through metal? I mean, the surfaces are painted, but the inside drilled hole isn't, right?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

MidnightNarwhal said:


> Ok. So I know my next question is pretty newbie here but, is there any risk for rust to be induced since I'm drilling through metal? I mean, the surfaces are painted, but the inside drilled hole isn't, right?



Unless you plan on leaving the box outside in the rain or live in a marine climate, probably little risk of severe rusting.
But as a cautionary step you could hit the drilled area with a shot RustOleum red primer or use a bead of silicone caulk under the bolt head as you install them. This will keep your drilled edges from oxidizing.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

There is no metal top. The wooden top is attached to the bent over flanges of the front, back and ends panels.


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## badtheba (Jul 3, 2011)

When I designed one of my first workbenches, I had an excess of wood nuts laying around that I had hung onto after removing them from some office furniture. These worked out extremely well and kept the bench surface flush when I wasn't using a particular tool. I had it set up for a miter saw, a vice, back and side fences for clamping against, and several other things. Technically these could be installed from the top on the toolbox you're looking at, but I'd be concerned about the material thickness and splitting (my bench was top and bottom laminated particle board at 1 1/8" total thickness). As an alternative you could use T nuts if you find out the bottom of the bench is easily accessible.

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## badtheba (Jul 3, 2011)

Here's a good example of a wood nut insert that would sit flush, and works well in solid wood or particle board. httpsw.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/fasteners-fastener-accessories/nuts/miscellaneous-nuts/5-16-18-hex-drive-wood-inserts-1-pcs/p-1444440135962.htm

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## badtheba (Jul 3, 2011)

And here's an example of a T nut that you'd drill all the way through the wood and the mount from the bottom. I usually use #4 screws instead of brads to hold this type in place. If you felt like recessing them, you could also mount these from the top down. Either of the methods I've mentioned seems like they would be more future proof than using carriage bolts if you decided you wanted to quickly remove it.

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## badtheba (Jul 3, 2011)

https://m.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman-...YKCsuhyIBwtuhOTzTXN4mW2bydcNmlIBd0aAvRn8P8HAQ

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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

There is a clamp/vise that basically involves one bolt hole in your table top.... which you recess such that the table top is flat when not in use.

The vice/clamp has a slot in it's foot that accepts the bolt when pulled up, and a screw clamp to securly clamp a workpiece to the table top.

You could then just mount whatever tool (/real vise/grinder etc) you want to a piece of ply, and easily change out applications.

I have one, but not my camera now, and don't really know what to call the screw/clamp/vise to google it.

Jorgenson may be the maker.


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