# Chainsaw recommendations



## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

I am trying to choose between two chainsaws:

Stihl MS 260 Pro 18" $529,95
or
Dolmar 
5100 S 18" $394.95

Anybody have a recommendation?

Thx.


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## jcalvin (Feb 6, 2008)

Never heard of a Dolmar. But that doesn't mean they don't make a good saw. One thing to think about is where would you get it serviced or where would you buy parts if it breaks. On the flip side, its hard to make a recommedation without knowing what your intended purpose is. If you are wanting to do light work really fast with a lightweight saw then that would be fine. If you are going to be heating this winter and need to cut several cords of firewood, I would recommend something a little bigger. Keep in mind, a Stihl pro saw is very well built and designed for a lot of continuous cutting. You could step up to a MS310 or something close, get a bigger saw and save some money. 

Write back and tell us what you intend to do with it, we can answer better for you then.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

cvrp said:


> I am trying to choose between two chainsaws:
> 
> Stihl MS 260 Pro 18" $529,95
> or
> ...


I own three stihl's and have no complaints.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

I've got a Stihl MS290 16" Farm Boss and it is a great saw. I can let it sit for a year, put gas/oil in it, and it will start right away with no fuss. No lack of power either.


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## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

Thank you.
I have 40-50 predominantly pine trees from 4-30 inches, some of them 50-60 feet high I need to knock down and cut.
STIHL is a quality saw - yet I looked at some arbor-sites who recommended Dolmar over STIHL (which I thought would do the job) , so I am a little in the dark ?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

i own both, they are both good saws. i have a dolmar ps540 and a stihl ms170 for smaller jobs. the 5100 i HAD gave me some real problems over and over until i traded it back in and got the older one. some mfg. error i guess. but for that much $$$.... but when it RAN it was very nice. very little vibration for so much power. kept toasting rings though. however....you cannot just leave them over the summer. if you want it to remain a good tool, follow owners manual instructions as to storage when not in use. i clean mine every month or so through the winter too, as well as many, many sharpenings... lol

DM


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## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

Good info from all you guys!
I really appreciate it.
I think I'll go with STIHL - dunno what size though, I got a lot of trees to knock over...


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## Rehabber (Dec 29, 2005)

I purchased a Stihl 034 super ( new equiv would be a 360) more than 20 years ago, it still runs strong, and has seen a lot of seasonal use. One of my better buying decisions. IMNTBHO


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## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

*Stihl*



Rehabber said:


> I purchased a Stihl 034 super ( new equiv would be a 360) more than 20 years ago, it still runs strong, and has seen a lot of seasonal use. One of my better buying decisions. IMNTBHO


That's exactly the kind of experience I'm looking to get! 
STIHL sounds like the best decision...thanks, Rehabber.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Get as much saw as you can afford, but save some money for the appropriate safety gear. 

I'm guilty of being less than safety conscious in the shop and on jobs on a regular basis. But I don't screw around with the chainsaw. During an inspection on a house a couple years ago I watched a tree trimmer's saw kick back into his face while running full bore. He was absolutely disfigured, and he was lucky to live through it. A face shield would have saved him from any injury.

In my opinion, the bare minimum gear is...

leather gloves
protective chainsaw chaps
hardhat with face shield
work boots
Please, if you don't have this stuff, get it. Knowing how to run a saw doesn't necessarily protect you from the inevitable kickback, and they're hard to control when they happen. 

Hearing protection isn't a bad idea either, but I'd be a hyprocrite to act like I use it every time. :whistling2:


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## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

*Good advice*

Thanks *thekctermite,
*I will do my best to follow your advice!:thumbsup:
Better safe than sorry.


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## jcalvin (Feb 6, 2008)

If all you have to cut is a pine patch then you had better save some money on a saw and put the rest into extra blades. Pine is going to be very soft and easy to cut through, however, they have a lot of sap and for some reason they seem to dull my blades fairly quick. No way you NEED and pro saw for this. But we all like to get bigger than necessary tools.


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## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

*Sap*



jcalvin said:


> If all you have to cut is a pine patch then you had better save some money on a saw and put the rest into extra blades. Pine is going to be very soft and easy to cut through, however, they have a lot of sap and for some reason they seem to dull my blades fairly quick. No way you NEED and pro saw for this. But we all like to get bigger than necessary tools.


Yeah, I noticed that (the sap) when I tried a stupid Craftsman saw for a couple of days, from Sears. Even though it was the "top-of-the-line", the motor refused to work after day two (it sounded like somebody put metal in the pistons), and the blades went dull after only an hour of sawing pine due to sap. I spent most of my time between sharpening, checking oils, and trying to start the freaking thing. :furious:


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Stihl has rollomatic chains with carbide teeth available for cutting tough woods and to avoid dulling. I've had my eye on one for quite a long time but haven't pulled the trigger yet. It only takes a few minutes to sharpen the cheapo chain I guess.


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## cvrp (Oct 8, 2008)

thekctermite said:


> Stihl has rollomatic chains with carbide teeth available for cutting tough woods and to avoid dulling. I've had my eye on one for quite a long time but haven't pulled the trigger yet. It only takes a few minutes to sharpen the cheapo chain I guess.


I'm going to the local STIHL dealer and check it out today. Yeah, I've seen they advertise the rollomatic chain but didn't know what that meant. Thanks for your input on that.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Consider also Husqvarna.

http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3298.aspx?nid=59980


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## Semiretired48 (Oct 10, 2008)

Another small bit of advice.If the saw you finally purchase has a compression release, don't forget to use it every time. Shortly after purchasing my Stihl MS460 I inadvertently forgot the release and upon pulling the cord the resulting kickback almost pulled my arm off.Haven't ever forgotten it after that!


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

cvrp said:


> I'm going to the local STIHL dealer and check it out today. Yeah, I've seen they advertise the rollomatic chain but didn't know what that meant. Thanks for your input on that.


Rollomatic is just their proprietary name for their chains. It isn't anything special necessarily, but I'd just make sure to get the Stihl brand of chain if you buy a spare. Some of the cheaper off-brands suck and may not oil the Stihl bar correctly or adequately.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

handy man88 said:


> Consider also Husqvarna.
> 
> http://www.usa.husqvarna.com/node3298.aspx?nid=59980


1+ I have owend a "husky" for almost 30 years now. It has served me well.


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