# Horizontal Fence Advice



## Dtrain (Jun 27, 2012)

I wanted some advice on a fence i am planning on building. We have a large area of the backyard that I am trying to shied with a 6 foot privacy fence. Most homes in the neighborhood have 6 foot fences with 6 inch vertical pickets. I wanted something slightly different, and after looking at lots of different approaches, I have decided to build a fence with horizontal slats. In addition to wanting something interesting, budget is a major consideration. I priced out using 3/4 inch cedar boards and 1x6 PT lumber before finding true 1 inch x true 6 inch "S1S1E pressure treated corral board." It is almost half the cost of regular 1x6 PT pine. Yes, it is slightly rougher because it hasn't had a final milling but I believe it is just fine for a fence. I'm concerned about warping and it seemed that a thicker board might help prevent warping (the extra 1/4 inch vs the nominal 1x6). I am fortunate to live in south central Texas where used schedule 40 pipe (2 3/8" OD) is available in abundance for about $1 a foot, so rather than using chain length fence posts or some sort of wood I've opted for pipe. I believe that will provide added stability. I plan to get 8 foot posts and stagger them at 6 foot distances placing them 2 feet in the ground. The best approach I've found for attaching horizontal fencing to vertical posts is to run a single additional corral board parallel to the pipe facing the fence and using 2 3/8 inch galvanized steel chain-link fence wood post adapters (http://www.lowes.com/pd_76069-16418-839318_0__?productId=3160571&Ntt=) to fasten the boards to the posts.
I have a few questions. Obviously with the thicker boards, I am looking at more weight. I plan to use three of those u-brackets per board/post and then screws to fasten the horizontal fence pickets to the vertical board fastened to the post. Is there reason to be concerned about the additional weight an extra 1/4" of lumber will add?

I know I need to use some sort of special screws because all the lumber is pressure treated. Is stainless the way to go or is there a better (cheaper) option?

I believe pressure treated lumber will shrink over time. Should I include any sort of gap between the boards? Aesthetically, I think it would be nice to have a small gap (1/4 inch or so), but I think in order to achieve that I start out without a gap and over time as the boards dry/shrink a gap will appear. That sound right?

I wanted to allow at least one place where I could remove a section of fence in order to get a vehicle or bobcat in the yard sometime later. At 6 foot distances with steel pipes in cement, I am concerned I may block off the back yard to future access. I was considering making one post "removable" and was interested in suggestions for techniques to do so. Obviously, I'd have to unscrew the boards in the section which is possible, but a 8 foot steel pole in 2 feet of concrete isn't. So, I'm considering either making some sort of sleeve out of the next side up pipe and dropping the post into the sleeve, or maybe embedding bolts into the cement and welding a mounting plate to the bottom of one fence post. The bolts/welding seems a bit more difficult, and maybe not as sturdy but with a sleeve in the ground i'm concerned about water getting in there. Maybe use 2 1/2" PVC pipe for the sleeve embedded in the concrete. I could use another larger steel pipe but think water might be a problem (not to mention the two steel pipes might rust together). Suggestions?

I'd like to eventually stain this lumber a dark red, but as i understand it, with PT lumber I have to wait until its dry (the corral board is not-its quite wet and heavy). That sound right? I think I just have to wait, but thought I'd check for any tricks?

I am attaching a drawing from sketchup to give you some idea of what I'm planning.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Some concerns.
#1, Regular sch. 40 PVC would snap at the ground in a high wind.
#2, PCV is not rated for above ground because it becomes brittle when exposed to UV.
#3, Between the board shrinking, the slats flexing from the wind, I see no way those screw holes are not going to wallow out and become loose. PVC just does not hold screws well. Through bolting is the only way to prevent that.
#4, Post would need caps so they do not fill up with water and crack if it freezes.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Sure, if you concrete the posts in but put a cap on top.

Today's plain sawn lumber is probably going to warp and bow no matter the thickness and I believe that would be more noticeable with horizontal than the traditional vertical with a spacing.


----------



## JimMacLachlan (Dec 15, 2014)

2' isn't a lot of extra for a post. I'm in north central KY & like at least 28" in the ground. That protects against frost heave & animals scratching. The extra post is often used up by dips. The fence doesn't follow the ground exactly, but generally splits the difference somewhat so an individual post on a roughly 4' high fence might have 4'6" sticking out of the ground if there's a dip.

Vertical boards every 4' should keep the boards pretty much in line, but I agree that wind is going to be a factor. I wouldn't use PVC. Surely a 4x6 treated post isn't that much extra. That gives you plenty of room to nail or screw the boards on. I've never seen a fence that went up & didn't need some fixing at some point.

There's generally a good reason why most folks use the type of fence they do. Usually they're doing the job they want & are cheaper.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I could be mistaken but I believe the OP is talking about an abundance of 2" steel oil field pipe.


----------



## Dtrain (Jun 27, 2012)

Sorry yes. Steel oil field pipe - 2 3/8 OD. I should have been more clear.


----------

