# wood slab for kitchen island



## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

my only comment is to remember that you need to coat it with a FOOD SAFE sealer. epoxy for boats probably doesn't fall into that category.

ok, i have one more comment. i LOVE your piece of wood! that's going to be awesome, please post a pic when its done.

Knucklez


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

Knucklez said:


> my only comment is to remember that you need to coat it with a FOOD SAFE sealer. epoxy for boats probably doesn't fall into that category.
> 
> ok, i have one more comment. i LOVE your piece of wood! that's going to be awesome, please post a pic when its done.
> 
> Knucklez


Hmm... Yes, that's a good point. I'll call West System tomorrow and see what they say.

I'll definitely post some pictures when it's done. It might take a while since I've got a few other things going on.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Run it by the boys at this forum.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

I'd be pretty certain that most epoxy products would be "food safe" once they cured.


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## wmrawls (Jun 10, 2008)

Beautiful piece of wood and a Great project. As stated I would love to see pics when your done with it.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

I wanna see a picture of this when it is finished. Gorgeous piece of wood.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy:

Having consumed many barrels of epoxy in the past - let me just say that you will need a two part finish to stick to the epoxy. A two part linear polyurethane for example.

I'm not aware of any one part finish that will adhere well.

Varnish might look OK for awhile, but it will peel off the epoxy eventually, especially in the environment you speak of.

The epoxy will stick with the wood, but what eventually happens, is that the wood surface immediately below the finish will suffer from UV degradation. You should be able to find a UV inhibitor which you can mix with the epoxy (it's a white powder - sorry I cannot recall the name) which will extend the life of the wood surface by reducing the effects of the UV. It will not eliminate it entirely.

The other two wood treatments used in boat maintenance are marine spar varnish and cetol.

Both require several coats on the first application, and a re-coat every year thereafter. Varnish starts best with 7 coats, and I believe cetol requires at least 3. Check with the manufacturer on that one (it's on the can).

Both have built-in UV inhibitors.

The amount of sunlight your wood receives will have the biggest effect on its' longevity.

Spectacular piece of wood!!!


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy:
> 
> Having consumed many barrels of epoxy in the past - let me just say that you will need a two part finish to stick to the epoxy. A two part linear polyurethane for example.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the comments. 

How about if I just use several coats of epoxy with nothing over that? I've seen a lot of bar tops that seem to be coated with a thick epoxy and they appear to hold up well.

Btw, this should get very little direct sunlight. We live under some big redwood trees and very little light filters down to the house. The kitchen island is near a couple of windows, but they are blocked by a giant boulder and a big tree trunk.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy: about ten seconds after I hit submit, I realized I should have suggested that you use epoxy only as another option.

Here's a suggestion for that. Coat the back side of that _gorgeous_ piece of madrone - which up here we call arbutus - with perhaps three or four coats of epoxy. Then attack the front with one or two coats.

Now you need to get the board _dead level_ for the last step.

Using tape to make a dam around the outside of the board, mix up your epoxy and pour a layer on the wood about 1/8"+ thick. This is the layer you will want to add the UV inhibitor to.

Incidentally, check with the supplier of whatever epoxy you end up using and ask about the "blush". If it has it, it washes off with soap and water. If you let the epoxy cure between coats, make sure you take the blush off each time.

It will be one killer board when you're done.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy: about ten seconds after I hit submit, I realized I should have suggested that you use epoxy only as another option.
> 
> Here's a suggestion for that. Coat the back side of that _gorgeous_ piece of madrone - which up here we call arbutus - with perhaps three or four coats of epoxy. Then attack the front with one or two coats.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure it's going to be level enough to pour a layer like that, so I might have to build it up as a whole bunch of brushed on coats. Also, the epoxy I'm using does have the amine blush that you mention. However, the blush is supposed to be easy to clean off with water, and that only happens if you let it dry more-or-less completely. With the hardener I'm using, I should be able to get at least 3 coats in 1 day without it drying completely in between.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> Run it by the boys at this forum.
> 
> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/


I posted something in that forum, under "finishing", and got 0 responses. There seems to be way more interest in this topic here than there. Go figure.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

OK, most of the epoxies blush it seems.

If you can do the coating in a warm area, it should dry reasonably quickly. But be aware that a thin coating takes much longer to kick off than a batch in a can.

If you experience the wood off-gassing shortly after you have applied a coat, this will have been caused by miniscule air bubbles trying to escape from the board. 

The cure for this is to fan the epoxy quickly with a heat gun or hair dryer. The bubbles will disappear almost instantly.

And yes, the blush removes with no trouble. It has a sort of soapy feel to it so you know when it's there. Get it off as quickly as you can, early is better than later.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*decisions decisions...*

Not to change the subject but... I've sanded both sides and either side would work for the top-side. However, one side is a little better natural fit, while the other side is a little more blemish-free and is a bit less wavy. Anyways, I'm just wondering if any of you have any opinion as to which side would look better as the up side. I've attached pictures of both sides here for easy reference. Note that the variation in tone is an illusion---the lighting was different at the times the photos were taken, so hopefully you can look past that.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

I prefer the look of the less blemished side, but the differences in the photos may be contributing to that.

What is the stuff they use to finish butcher block? Is there a reason you are wanting a more "substantial" finish on this piece? I'm not questioning your ideas, I'm just curious.

What ever way you go I think this is one of the most beautiful pieces I have ever seen.

Mind if I ask how much that piece cost you?


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, the wood will eventually dry with a slight curve on one side. If you can post a pic looking right at the end grain, I should be able to tell you which way it will go.

In any event, the side which is going to curve should face up. That way you don't end up with sitting water on it.

I see that there is some canker on the slab, completely normal for madrone.

I have loads of arbutus slabs here and at least half of them have the canker. It can look quite alright when it's finished.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy, the wood will eventually dry with a slight curve on one side. If you can post a pic looking right at the end grain, I should be able to tell you which way it will go.
> 
> In any event, the side which is going to curve should face up. That way you don't end up with sitting water on it.
> 
> ...


Here are some photos of the end, where the "up" side is the one with more knots/defects. I just heard from the guy who sold it to me and he says it probably doesn't matter which side is up on this one because it is so close to the center, but let me know what you think.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

drtbk4ever said:


> I prefer the look of the less blemished side, but the differences in the photos may be contributing to that.
> 
> What is the stuff they use to finish butcher block? Is there a reason you are wanting a more "substantial" finish on this piece? I'm not questioning your ideas, I'm just curious.
> 
> ...


As for finishing, I'm really concerned about sealing in (and out) all moisture. Our house is in the redwoods, with thick fog and high humidity much of the time, and a pellet stove for heat in the winter (which sucks the moisture out of the air). So, I figure wooden boats must do a good job of sealing out moisture... Plus, I have some experience working with epoxy.

How much did it cost? I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you. Or is it, "then my wife would have to kill me"? Actually, I'm hesitant to say because I think I got a great deal and the guy who sold it has some more from the same tree that I'd like to get. So, I'll only tell you if you promise to say that it's outrageously expensive---just in case the seller reads this forum. Agreed? OK, so it was $360 plus tax and shipping. Fortunately, the seller is in Oregon and he makes regular trips to my area (Bay Area of California) to deliver redwood, so shipping was only $100. My total cost was $500.


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy:
> 
> Having consumed many barrels of epoxy in the past !!


Wow! I'm a whiskey man myself!:thumbsup:

Yep, awesome piece of wood. A few years back a friend of mine bought something similar and made an awesome bbq/bar out of it. Wish I had taken pics


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

Thanks for explaining that. I figured there was a reason.

I too would want to protect the heck outta that piece of wood. And yes, it is a lot cheaper than I expected.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

That is a nice piece of wood, I think the price is reasonable
Had a cousin who used to cut pine slabs when he was younger & make coffe tables from them
No idea what he sealed them with


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, the slab is indeed cut very close to the center of the tree. If you look in the middle of the slab, you will notice that it has the curves of the grain with the cup facing up.

The edges of the grain are straight enough that you shouldn't expect much, if any movement, on the outside. 

What happens is this. The curved sections of the grain will try to straighten themselves out as they dry. As that happens, the middle of the board will rise upward a small amount. The area in question is quite small, so I don't think you should expect much movement.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy, the slab is indeed cut very close to the center of the tree. If you look in the middle of the slab, you will notice that it has the curves of the grain with the cup facing up.
> 
> The edges of the grain are straight enough that you shouldn't expect much, if any movement, on the outside.
> 
> What happens is this. The curved sections of the grain will try to straighten themselves out as they dry. As that happens, the middle of the board will rise upward a small amount. The area in question is quite small, so I don't think you should expect much movement.


So, if I'm reading this correctly, ideally it should be oriented the way it is in those end grain pictures?

Also, I'm just curious as to what you see in the wood that indicates canker. I see some little black spots, but that's mostly just on the "good" side, and I don't know think those are really visible in the picture I posted.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*One more question (for now...)*

Can anyone suggest a good way to get the bark off of the edge? I want to have a "live" edge, but it's taken me forever to get the bark reasonably well stripped from one edge---and the other edge has a lot more bark. I've been using a chisel and a wire brush (the kind that attaches to a drill). It's very slow and tedious.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> So, if I'm reading this correctly, ideally it should be oriented the way it is in those end grain pictures?
> 
> Also, I'm just curious as to what you see in the wood that indicates canker. I see some little black spots, but that's mostly just on the "good" side, and I don't know think those are really visible in the picture I posted.


Yes, it's the right way up.

From the photo, it looks like the black marks might be small irregularly shaped holes. If so, that is canker. Can you get a direct pic tomorrow maybe of the black spots? I can take some pics here to show you what it develops into. Once the tree is cut, I believe that growth ceases.

The canker attacks essentially every madrone/arbutus tree in the Pacific northwest. The trees will continue to grow as though nothing is wrong, sometimes up to 100 feet in this area, very large trees, such as the slab you have might come from. I have been told that in Oregon and Washington there are even larger trees.

Here, in southern B.C. we are getting close to the northern limit of the tree. I don't know how far south it grows.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> Can anyone suggest a good way to get the bark off of the edge? I want to have a "live" edge, but it's taken me forever to get the bark reasonably well stripped from one edge---and the other edge has a lot more bark. I've been using a chisel and a wire brush (the kind that attaches to a drill). It's very slow and tedious.


Jeremy, I don't know if this will work for your slab.

But here at the sawmills, they use high pressure water to remove bark prior to cutting. We do not cut madrone commercially here, but all the softwoods have their bark removed this way.

So, you might try a pressure washer. Somehow, maybe by taping some 6 mil poly to the slab, you would want to keep the water off the faces.

Alternately, I wonder if a heat gun would make the bark curl up and be easier to remove? Kind of grasping at straws here.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

You need one of these rasps you can attach to a drill.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

I think one of these old draw knifes would help too.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

You can remove bark with a draw knife, as suggested, a sharp scraper (steel), or a block plane if you are careful. They all work well. I have never used a rasp, I suppose it would work, but I would be a little concerned about excess gouging with a rasp. A Surform with a curved rasp bottom might work.

As for the surface, I built a kitchen island top out of 2" thick cherry. I finished it with three coats of polyurethane, covered with butchers wax. I have no idea if butchers wax is considered food safe, I doubt it, but I don't prepare food on the island, simply eat there, so I am not too concerned. I have used West systems epoxy to build kayak and canoe paddles, it is a great product, but I have never used it for kitchen or furniture projects, not saying it would not work, simply have no experience with that type of application


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Yes, it's the right way up.
> 
> From the photo, it looks like the black marks might be small irregularly shaped holes. If so, that is canker. Can you get a direct pic tomorrow maybe of the black spots? I can take some pics here to show you what it develops into. Once the tree is cut, I believe that growth ceases.
> 
> ...


The black marks are not holes, but just small blotchy blemishes on the surface. The strange thing is that they are only on one side of the slab. When the light is a little better, and I get the energy to turn it over, I'll post a picture.

Btw, we have lots of madrone/arbutus trees here. In fact, the main road thru our neighborhood is Madrone Drive. However, they don't seem to get as large as the one this slab came from---or at least that would be extremely rare. It's an interesting tree that contorts itself into all kinds of weird shapes trying to get to the limited sun beneath the redwood/douglas fir canopy. As far as I can tell, around these parts, madrone trees only get used for firewood---kind of a shame for such a beautiful hardwood.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> The black marks are not holes, but just small blotchy blemishes on the surface. The strange thing is that they are only on one side of the slab. When the light is a little better, and I get the energy to turn it over, I'll post a picture.
> 
> Btw, we have lots of madrone/arbutus trees here. In fact, the main road thru our neighborhood is Madrone Drive. However, they don't seem to get as large as the one this slab came from---or at least that would be extremely rare. It's an interesting tree that contorts itself into all kinds of weird shapes trying to get to the limited sun beneath the redwood/douglas fir canopy. As far as I can tell, around these parts, madrone trees only get used for firewood---kind of a shame for such a beautiful hardwood.


Hi Jeremy...don't worry about the pics then. You would definitely know if it was canker, the holes can get to be very big.

The reason that madrone isn't cut as a commercial hardwood is evidently due to the fact that it is - as you very correctly point out - a tree which grows with wild contortions. This makes it difficult, if not impossible, to cut on a commercial mill as these mills are set up for straight cuts on straight trees.

A private mill owner can handle this sort of thing far better, as trees cut in this fashion are strictly on a one at a time basis. Whereas, the commercial mills have automated non-stop feed systems. Logs are processed at the rate of one every 4 seconds in one of our local mills, quite incredible.

And I hate to admit it, but madrone/arbutus is the firewood of choice here as well. However, with my small bandmill, I have a nice little stockpile of slabs and boards.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*bottom*

I finished the bottom, and still have some touch-up to do. I wasn't too careful, since it won't be visible, and I really wanted to get it done in one afternoon. I put on one thin coat of epoxy, then when it got good and tacky, I put a very very heavy coating on top of that. My one mistake was not plugging up the holes, some of which go all the way thru. As a result, some of the epoxy ran thru and I'll need to clean up some of that mess from the front side. Oh well, live and learn... 

When I do the "show" side, I plan on putting on a ton of thin coats and letting each one dry (at least the first several) and sand in between. Based on my experiments, that's the only way I can get a super-smooth bubble-free finish.

Btw, there's a lot of reflection in the picture, but I think you can get the general idea of what it looks like.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

AWESOME LOOKING SLAB!!! :thumbup:

Sorry, I should have mentioned that about arbutus. The holes that go through are quite common.

If you have a regular wood scraper, the kind used in furniture making, the epoxy will come off the other side OK. You just need to do it before it cures too well.

There is a point where it becomes very firm, but before it reaches total cure where you can scrape it off with little difficulty. _Or_ let it cure fully and sand it off.

It doesn't matter if you leave some of the epoxy on the other side, as it will look the same as the rest as soon as you have a couple of coats on there. :yes:

Very nearly a flame in that grain...extremely nice. Now I'm officially jealous!


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> AWESOME LOOKING SLAB!!! :thumbup:


Well said.

Simply gorgeous.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*top side*

Here's a couple of photos of the top side, as viewed from 2 different angles. I couldn't seem to get the whole thing in one shot without getting a bad glare on the photo.

It still needs a few more coats, but the look won't change. I'm having one problem and I was hoping someone with some epoxy skills might have some suggestions. The epoxy seems to get quite a few tiny little bubbles (roughly, the size of the tip of a toothpick). After mixing and spreading the epoxy, I use a hairdryer to heat it, and that gets the bubbles up near the surface, but they don't seem to want to go away. I've even tried using a toothpick to get them out, but nothing seems to work. For the base coats, it's not a big deal, since I can sand them out before the next coat goes on, but I'm not seeing how I can ever get a final top coat that is flawless.

Btw, I'm using West System epoxy and their 207 "special clear" hardener. It's more viscous than their usual epoxy and I'm usually working at temperatures in the mid to upper 60s (they give 60 degrees as the minimum working temp). But, I have tried warming the epoxy to about 80 degrees, and that didn't really help.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy - don't be afraid to let the bubbles pop using the hair dryer.

The more viscous epoxy really prefers to be worked at higher temperatures. A few extra seconds of "fanning" with the dryer won't hurt it. It will also have the effect of getting the epoxy to set a little faster.

Experiment with the fanning technique, for example, go slower than you probably are now. The bubbles will burst given enough warmth. This is offgassing from the wood and happens most of the time.

One way to minimize this offgassing, is to coat the wood when the ambient temperature is dropping. If the temperature of the day is rising, offgassing is more prevalent.

If there is any way you could set up some sort of tent with tarps maybe, and then add a heater, that would help as well.

When the epoxy manufacturers give cure times, they are referring to a standard 3 oz. batch. As soon as you spread the epoxy out, that cure time increases immensely.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy - don't be afraid to let the bubbles pop using the hair dryer.
> 
> The more viscous epoxy really prefers to be worked at higher temperatures. A few extra seconds of "fanning" with the dryer won't hurt it. It will also have the effect of getting the epoxy to set a little faster.
> 
> ...


cocobolo,

As always, thanks for the reply. However, I don't think this is outgassing---I've seen that and that produces relatively large bubbles that I can easily manage. Besides, I did a thin "base coat", where I heated the wood up to about 80 degrees, then put on the epoxy as it was cooling back down to about 70 (or less). Then I waited for that to dry and the next day put on a fairly thick coat. That thick coat had lots of pin-head sized bubbles---so small they are almost invisible from an angle, but clearly visible from directly above. I spent a lot of time with the hair dryer, but it would only bring them closer to the surface---they seemed to be too small for it to actually break them.

Anyways, I called the West System tech line today and they had several suggestions. I just finished trying one, and it seems to work like a charm. They suggested using a propane torch and fanning it over the curing epoxy. There's a video here that demonstrates the technique:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyRe6fjlTIE
(the propane torch is at about the 2:14 mark). I'd seen this video before I called, and I'd assumed the torch was based on the same principle as the hair dryer. But, the tech guy insisted it was much more effective. So, I just gave it a try, and on any fairly thick layer, the torch works extremely well---the bubbles just shoot out of the epoxy. I'll let you know how it works out.

Jeremy


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Exactly the same principal, I was never brave enough to use a propane torch! :no:

Fortunately, I didn't need to.

It sounds as though your epoxy is quite a bit thicker, and once the surface skins over, it would be difficult to get enough quick heat with the hair dryer. The surface tension is obviously able to keep the bubbles encased.

Terrific that you have the solution, anxiously awaiting the final result! :thumbup:


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Exactly the same principal, I was never brave enough to use a propane torch! :no:
> 
> Fortunately, I didn't need to.
> 
> ...


Yes, the 207 hardener yields a thick mix, since the ratio of resin (thick stuff) to hardener (runny stuff) is 5 to 1, as opposed to 3 to 1 for the other standard West System epoxies. In any case, it's almost magical how the tiny bubbles more or less evaporate when subjected to the torch. 

Btw, the West System guy also told me that it's impossible to get a "perfect" finish with the hardener I'm using. That may be true, but with my current approach and some buffing, I'm confident it'll be close enough for me (well, assuming I don't burn down the house with the torch in the process...).

Finally, at the resolution available in the images posted here, the final result is not going to look any different than the photos I posted above. But, I will post something once I get it installed on the countertop---should be pretty nice, I think.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, I have no doubt whatsoever it is going to be excellent! :thumbsup:


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

Anxiously waiting........


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*Suggestions for polishing epoxy to a gloss?*

I sanded the epoxy finish to fix a few minor surface imperfections and now I'd like to restore it to a high gloss. I did a small test where I tried sanding with 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and, finally, 2000 grit but still had a matte finish. Searching online, some people claim to have had success using micro-mesh abrasives, while others (mostly surf board builders) buff the epoxy. Does anybody have any thoughts as to which of these (or other) approach is most likely to be successful? Thanks.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, as far as I am aware, any form of sandpaper is likely to leave the mat finish you describe.

We used to use a two part polyurethane on top of epoxy if that was going to be our final finish. You might try that. I'm not convinced that epoxy will actually buff that well...and here's why.

When epoxy goes through it's first cure, it cures to the highest temperature reached during the final stage of curing. The epoxy is rarely "hard" at this point.

In fact, it wouldn't surprise me to learn that you can make a dent with your fingernail in your epoxy as it is now.

It will cure further if it is exposed to a higher temperature. In boatbuilding, this can be a real problem. When epoxy is used in conjunction with a light weight fabric - 6 oz. cloth for example - and the subsequent cure is at a higher temperature, you get what is called print through.

This is caused when the epoxy softens somewhat on its' journey to the next cure.

So, the most practical solution to this is to cure the epoxy at as high a temperature as you can practically achieve. If you can make a tent and get the air temp up to 140º F, for example, the epoxy should cure hard, or at least harder than it is now.

For my money (and thank god it isn't my money with that magnificent piece of wood!) I would be using the best two part polyurethane I could get my hands on.

FWIW, I just got an email from stewmac.com wherein they are describing a refinish put on part of an old guitar. You might go to their site and see what they did.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy, as far as I am aware, any form of sandpaper is likely to leave the mat finish you describe.
> 
> We used to use a two part polyurethane on top of epoxy if that was going to be our final finish. You might try that. I'm not convinced that epoxy will actually buff that well...and here's why.
> 
> ...


I was afraid you'd say that...

I had considered just pouring another layer of epoxy on top. I have enough leftover goo to do so, but there's bound to be a few imperfection. Besides, it seems likely that it'll get some scratches at some point, and I'd like to know that I can sand those out and restore the gloss.

I'd also considered the 2-part polyurethane paint, since West System specifically recommends this. That stuff sounds like it's kind of difficult to work with and I'd need several coats, but I know it'll work since it's commonly used in boat building. So, I'll probably go that route if buffing fails me. Btw, would you consider this stuff a good 2-part polyurethane?

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4245

It's the only one I've so far been able to find locally.

Thanks again.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> I was afraid you'd say that...
> 
> I had considered just pouring another layer of epoxy on top. I have enough leftover goo to do so, but there's bound to be a few imperfection. Besides, it seems likely that it'll get some scratches at some point, and I'd like to know that I can sand those out and restore the gloss.
> 
> ...


Jeremy:

Interlux brand has been around for a good long time. I think you will have good success with that one.

One thing I do note is that they have given good clear instructions as to how to apply the finish to epoxy.

And seeing what an excellent job you have done so far, I can only imagine how good the final result will be with the Interlux.

I would be inclined to go for the finer sandpaper, e.g. 220. And buy the absolute best quality sandpaper you can find...there really is a difference.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy...I just did a quick sanding demo on some test pieces I have been making for some stair risers.

The 120 grit paper is good quality, but leaves a rougher finish - which you would expect.

The 150 grit is cheapie stuff from everybody's favourite country when you don't want to spend any money. While the job it did was somewhat credible, it also wears out in about 1/6th the time of the better stuff. So, it is hardly a bargain at any price.

The 180 is again good stuff, and the difference between the 150 and 180 is clearly visible in the picture. You can feel the difference between the two, even though it is subtle with such close grades.

I couldn't find the 220 immediately, but it is also noticeably smoother.

The finish I sanded has been curing for several days and is thoroughly hard, so it sands well.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

I just talked to a guy who claims he does a lot of boat restoration, and he claims that it's easy to buff out epoxy to a glossy finish. His comment was something like, "We buff out gelcoat all the time and gelcoat is epoxy..." So, I think I'll at least give it a try before resorting to more epoxy-type work.

I'll wet sand it to 2000 grit and then buff. Would anybody have some specific recommendations for buffing compounds? I've got 0 experience in that area. Also, it would be nice if it's known to be food safe, since this will be used as a countertop/table. Thanks.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Hi Jeremy:

That's the first I have ever heard of gelcoat being epoxy. Gelcoat you can buff out, no doubt about that.

Gelcoat is what is sprayed into a boat mold before the application of fiberglass, either by chopper gun or by fabric itself. That is invariably done with polyester resin, which definitely does not like epoxy.

However, nothing ventured and all that...buffing out the epoxy might work just fine. Why not give it a go and let us know what happens.

The only thing is that if the epoxy gets heated up too much during the buffing process, it might turn soft on you. It will cure again...but I would tread carefully on that one.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Hi Jeremy:
> 
> That's the first I have ever heard of gelcoat being epoxy. Gelcoat you can buff out, no doubt about that.
> 
> ...


According to Wikipedia, "The most common gelcoats are based on epoxy or unsaturated polyester resin chemistry."

I ordered some "micro-mesh", which is sorta like ultra-ultra-ultra fine sandpaper. Some people claim to have been able to polish epoxy just using that stuff. So, I'll give that a try first and if it's still not satisfactory, I'll try to buff it. 

Btw, I'm confused about the buffing process---it seems like there's a gazillion different options. I posted a question about polishing epoxy on a woodworking site (and got some responses this time), and this is one thing that was recommended and looked appropriate:
http://jmcompounds.com/
If anybody has any thoughts on buffing this, let me know. Thanks.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*The latest...*

I got the "micro-mesh" sanding pads that I ordered. The first photo below shows the slab sanded to 2000 grit wet sandpaper. That's definitely a matte look. The next one is with the micro-mesh (up thru their finest stuff), which is a little glossier, but not that great. I could do a little better with the micro-mesh, but it's slow going on such a large slab, and even on small test patches with lots of elbow grease, it's not getting close to the finish I want.

So, that leaves 2 options I'm considering:

1) Polish/buff and paste wax. The guy at the boat store recommended 3M Finesse-It II (the "glaze" as I recall) followed by some paste wax. I'm confident that'll look pretty good.

2) Coat it with a 2-part linear polyurethane, with the most likely candidate being System 3 WR-LPU. This stuff sounds fairly user-friendly:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...-linear-polyurethane-topcoat-water-borne.html

I'm not too keen on 2), since it requires more painting-type work (my least favorite), but I'm considering it since it seems like a more permanent fix. Also, I've got a temporary clean room where I could put on the LPU now---if I go with 1) and later change my mind and want to do 2), it'll be difficult to get such a clean place to do it. 

Anyways, if you've got any suggestions as to which is better (or any other ideas) let me know ASAP, since I'm going to make a decision soon. And this time I mean it...


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy:

That slab is looking excellent! :thumbsup:

Still and all, I will stick with my original suggestion of going with the two part LPU.

If you opt to go that route, I can all but guarantee you that you will be thrilled with the result. :thumbup:


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Couple of other things I wanted to mention...an epoxy based gelcoat definitely is not the same as straight epoxy. That's like comparing a sack of flour to a loaf of bread. Really quite different.

And on another angle, I have a few slabs of arbutus here, one of which I have been meaning to put in as a side table of sorts on the round deck. I just don't want you to think that I'm swiping your idea or stealing your thunder.

I don't think you have any worries there, it's gonna be awhile before anyone else comes up with a slab like you have!

Do you remember a furniture maker by the name of George Nakashima? Now there's a guy who found some truly incredible pieces of wood for his monumental furniture!


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy:
> 
> That slab is looking excellent! :thumbsup:
> 
> ...


OK, that's enough convincing. Boat shops in my vicinity carry 2 different brands of 2 part LPU:
1) Interlux Perfection Plus
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4245
2) System Three - WR-LPU (mentioned in my previous post).

I'm leaning towards 2), since it's water-based and so a lot less smelly, and everyone seems to have good success with it. On the other hand, there is a very nice website describing the use of 1), and the results look fabulous:
http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop28.htm

If anybody has any experience with either---or just opinions---let me know.

Edit: One more thing... I plan to brush this on. While both brands say it can be brushed, they recommend spraying. Do you think I can get a reasonably good finish with a brush? Thanks


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Couple of other things I wanted to mention...an epoxy based gelcoat definitely is not the same as straight epoxy. That's like comparing a sack of flour to a loaf of bread. Really quite different.
> 
> And on another angle, I have a few slabs of arbutus here, one of which I have been meaning to put in as a side table of sorts on the round deck. I just don't want you to think that I'm swiping your idea or stealing your thunder.
> 
> ...


No worries about stealing my thunder (such as it is...).

Btw, the guy who sold me this slab has several more cut from the same tree. I've been thinking about buying them all and going into the slab finishing business. After my experience on this one, I'm pretty confident I could do a near flawless job with them. Of course, there are a couple of problems, namely, that the finishing materials cost as much as (if not more than) the wood, and it takes a long long time. So, I guess I won't give up my day job.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, it has been a number of years since I put LPU on anything (when I was at the boatyard).

Two things you need to be sure of...one is that the product is compatible with your epoxy, that is probably a given.

Two, that you have everything absolutely ready to go with extra CLEAN brushes right at hand.

We did the hulls of a 32' catamaran with brushes. I think we had three top quality brushes on hand for the job.

One guy did the brushing, and the other made sure that there was always a fresh brush on hand. The stuff dries so quickly that you have not one extra second for any delay. Go through - in your mind - as to how you are going to get the finish on. Which is to say will you do 2 or 3 or even 4 feet at one end and then carry on from there? Or will you try to go across the wood so that you don't have a "dry" join in the LPU.

Even with what is a relatively small area, I'm thinking that you may need two or even three clean brushes. Or two for sure with a helper to clean them. You will not have time to stop once you get started.

I don't know if the info is still available or not, but Pratt & Lambert used to have the story of how they did a 100' pleasure boat hull _with brushes_ no less. It was pretty amazing to say the least.

It may be that chemistry advances have made changes since I last used LPU, so it may be worth checking into whatever is current and all the application techniques.

I definitely wish you the best of luck.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy, it has been a number of years since I put LPU on anything (when I was at the boatyard).
> 
> Two things you need to be sure of...one is that the product is compatible with your epoxy, that is probably a given.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the heads up on the timing issues---I'll definitely be prepared. I've done quite a bit of grouting with Spectralock (epoxy-based), and the large "pro" units of that stuff are very time-sensitive. Of course, that's not at all the same process, but the experience should be helpful. I actually kinda like the time pressure---it keeps me focused and makes it more intense.

In any case, I suspect the newer formulations of LPU are more forgiving, since I haven't seen this potential problem mentioned in the (few) DIY sites I've found. In any case, it can't hurt to be prepared and get it done efficiently.


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## NHNailbangah (Jul 3, 2010)

Coming in to this thread a bit late, since I don't usually venture in to the DIY section too often.

Jeremy, I feel your pain, as being a noob to the world of epoxy coatings myself.

I applaud your guts for trying this yourself. I recently did a bathroom remodel, where a large Mahogany top was finished using the exact same formula as you are using. 

I subbed the job to a local boat /surfboard builder who did a great job. I believe we ended up with 9 coats(very thin) on the top side followed up with 5 coats of marine grade spar varnish, though this would not be proper for a counter top. the final finish was like glass.

I posted a link to the thread @ contractor talk, pictures aren't the greatest, but you can get the idea.

http://www.contractortalk.com/f94/best-finish-mahogany-tub-deck-top-77001/


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

NHNailbangah said:


> Coming in to this thread a bit late, since I don't usually venture in to the DIY section too often.
> 
> Jeremy, I feel your pain, as being a noob to the world of epoxy coatings myself.
> 
> ...


That mahogany tub surround looks awesome. It's also great to hear that I'm not the only one out there who is foolish enough to try this approach.

Just for the record, there are a couple of differences between your project and mine. For one, I only did 2 coats of epoxy, but the second coat was a doozy---poured on about 1/16" thick. And, for the topcoat, I've (finally) decided to go with Interlux Perfection Plus varnish, which is a 2-part linear polyurethane. According to West System, such finishes "offer the most durable protection available" and they provide "excellent UV protection, gloss retention, abrasion resistance, plus compatibility with epoxy". There's no free lunch (if only...), so there's also this: "However, compared to other types of coatings, they are expensive, require more skill to apply and present a greater health hazard, especially when sprayed." Well, I won't spray, so at least I can minimize that negative aspect. Of course, this would probably be overkill for a tub surround, but hopefully it'll hold up well on a countertop.

Not that it really matters, but I'm curious as to about how thick the epoxy coating is on the mahogany. I seem to recall that West System says you typically get something like 4 mils per coat, which would make for about 1/32" after 8 coats. However, I don't think the 105 with 207 hardener can be spread that thin---it's much thicker stuff than their regular epoxy.


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## NHNailbangah (Jul 3, 2010)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> That mahogany tub surround looks awesome. It's also great to hear that I'm not the only one out there who is foolish enough to try this approach.
> 
> Just for the record, there are a couple of differences between your project and mine. For one, I only did 2 coats of epoxy, but the second coat was a doozy---poured on about 1/16" thick. And, for the topcoat, I've (finally) decided to go with Interlux Perfection Plus varnish, which is a 2-part linear polyurethane. According to West System, such finishes "offer the most durable protection available" and they provide "excellent UV protection, gloss retention, abrasion resistance, plus compatibility with epoxy". There's no free lunch (if only...), so there's also this: "However, compared to other types of coatings, they are expensive, require more skill to apply and present a greater health hazard, especially when sprayed." Well, I won't spray, so at least I can minimize that negative aspect. Of course, this would probably be overkill for a tub surround, but hopefully it'll hold up well on a countertop.
> 
> Not that it really matters, but I'm curious as to about how thick the epoxy coating is on the mahogany. I seem to recall that West System says you typically get something like 4 mils per coat, which would make for about 1/32" after 8 coats. However, I don't think the 105 with 207 hardener can be spread that thin---it's much thicker stuff than their regular epoxy.




Since I didn't apply the epoxy myself, I'm not sure of the final thickness of the epoxy, though I don't think it was a lot more than 1/32".
The boat builder that did the job for me said that he applied (rolled) the coats on "very thin" 
He also told me that he always waited until late in the day,as the temp. was coming down,to apply the epoxy, to help with the off gassing issue.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*more problems...*

I've put on a couple coats of the Interlux Perfection Plus varnish (2 part linear polyurethane), and I'm having the usual problem with little bubbles. I tried thinning the second coat more, but it didn't seem to help. I've also tried both a foam brush and a bristle brush, but the results are similar. I try tipping it off, but that doesn't seem to do any good. Of course, I can smooth it out by sanding between coats but I'm not sure what to do about the final coat (well, that and the fact that I'll end up sanding off half of what I put on, and this stuff is very expensive). On the up side, it's nice and glossy, but that doesn't seem to hold up if I have to sand it.

I'll post a couple of pictures tomorrow---I'm down with a stomach flu today, so I don't feel like moving...


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, I don't know if this will help or not - but on my Gulf Island Building thread - I'm using goat hair brushes and getting far better results with varnish than with any other kind of brush. 

Personally, I think foam brushes are a waste of time.

You have an excellent product there and a good brush might make the difference. 

If you can thin the Interlux enough for the goat hair brushes to work it might be OK.

Another thing, it seems to work better, i.e. less bubbles etc. if you actually brush very slowly and use the minimum amount of brushing possible.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, I was just chatting via pm with someone and we were discussing your slab...I don't really know for sure, but I may have another reason as to why you are getting bubbles.

Do you have the surface sanded down to a silky smoothness between coats?

If you take a bright light, play it on the (dry) surface at an angle for examination, what do you see?

Is there any miniature orange peel? Or is it as smooth as glass?

If you have even the slightest orange peel, super tiny air bubbles may get trapped in each of those tiny little depressions. I'm going to guess that your varnish is fairly viscous, and as such it would have the ability to trap very tiny amounts of air in a depression which would lead to the inevitable bubbles.

The solution is to get the surface silky smooth, and perhaps add heat to the wood just in advance of where you will be varnishing. I don't know about that last comment positively, you'd have to experiment with that on some scrap.

But that's half the fun of this stuff.

And do us all a favor, get rid of that  flu PDQ! We're anxious....


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy, I was just chatting via pm with someone and we were discussing your slab...I don't really know for sure, but I may have another reason as to why you are getting bubbles.
> 
> Do you have the surface sanded down to a silky smoothness between coats?
> 
> ...


That could be an issue. It definitely was not super-smooth after the first coat. It was actually somewhat difficult to sand, because it kept gumming up the sandpaper. So, I'll let it dry a bit more before sanding, then get it smooth as can be, and, finally, use a high quality brush. I don't know if I can find a goat hair brush, though---they don't seem to be too common.

Thanks for the suggestions.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

You just found your problem Jeremy.

Sandpaper gumming up.

The surface wasn't dry enough - or cured enough I should say - for sanding.

My experience with epoxy was often similar. If there is any way you can force a cure at higher temps, which we have discussed before, that will help. Other than that, you just have to grow patience in large quantities and wait it out.

I know it's a pain, but...


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

*this is not working...*

Today I sanded out all of those annoying spots. In the process, I probably took off the equivalent of one of the 2 coats I'd put on. Then I thoroughly cleaned it, wiped it down with the thinning liquid, and then dried it thoroughly. Finally, I put on another coat of the varnish. 

Unfortunately, the same problem---lots of little specks embedded in the goop. I might be wrong about these being air bubbles since they look more like little blobs of dirt and I had no success trying to tip them off. I don't get that, because I cleaned and cleaned it, and no dirt falls on the surface as it's drying. Anyways, I guess tomorrow or the next day I'll sand most of this newest layer off.

So, what to do next? I'm not sure whether I've got enough of this expensive stuff left to do another coat, but even if I do, I don't want to waste my time. If anybody has any suggestions as to something else that would provide a durable, glossy, and non-yellowing finish, and will stick to a 2-part linear polyurethane/epoxy surface, let me know. Maybe several coats of a regular everyday 1-part water-based polyurethane? I've always had success with that stuff in the past, it's super clear, and it doesn't smell too bad. However, it seems like a big step down in protection.

P.S. I will post some pictures tomorrow. I forgot to take pictures before I started today, and I want to wait until the smell clears. Btw, one good thing about this stuff is that the odor is basically all gone in 24 hours.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Are you wiping the surface off with a tack cloth just before you varnish?

Jeremy, another thought cropped up. Try viewing the surface with about a 10x eye loupe. See if that tells you anything.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

Here are a couple of pictures. The one showing the whole slab looks great, right? Well, not so fast... If you look at the close-up, you can see a bunch of pinhead sized dots of light. Those are actually tiny bubbles that worked their way up to the surface as the varnish was drying, and they're everywhere (you only see a few in any picture, but by eye you can't miss them). I suppose the good news is that they really are bubbles, and they almost worked their way out as the stuff dried, so I can sand it out, and some of the varnish will survive. I'm not sure if I can get the same glossy finish after sanding and, if not, I'm back at square one.

It seems to me that this stuff is simply too viscous so the bubbles cannot be tipped off as it's laid down. If I were to wait until the bubble migrate somewhere near the surface and then try to tip it off, that would've certainly ruined the entire varnish layer (I tried this...). Also, I thinned it to the max allowed (25% by volume) and I used the proper (very expensive) thinner. Yet, to my untrained eye (and feel) the thinned varnish remained just as viscous as the un-thinned stuff. Finally, the temperature was about 75 degrees, which is essentially at the middle of the acceptable range. 

After 3 tries, I'm starting to think there is something defective about the batch of varnish that I'm using. I'm going to contact the people at Interlux and see what they have to say.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

I spent a lot of time sanding out all of the bubbles with 400 grit sandpaper. I didn't want to sand off any more than necessary, so it was slow going and an incredible hassle (bubble by bubble by bubble ...). Then I finished sanding it with a bunch of finer grits, but it remains dull. I suspect I can buff it to a good shine and I was planning to do that.

However, today I got an email from Interlux (after they'd asked for details on the problems I was having and the numbers stamped on the varnish cans I was using). They said they'd provide a replacement for the can of varnish I used, and somebody would contact me today. There was no explanation provided, which seemed a bit odd. Anyways, I wasn't contacted by their representative today and I'm getting impatient to get this thing done. I'm also a little reluctant to try the varnishing again, given my experience so far. But, I suppose I'll give it one more try and see how that goes. Hopefully, I'll be able to report on my success soon...


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

I was quite curious as to what Interlux would have to say.

I'm glad that they are offering a replacement, but not too happy to see any lack of explanation.

Would it be possible for you to get in touch with one of their chemists involved with the product?

When I used to deal with my epoxy supplier, I had excellent access to their top epoxy man, and believe me his information simply could not have a value placed on it.

If you can reach them, email, phone, smoke signals, whatever...it might be time extremely well spent. They ought to be more than willing to help.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

The plot thickens...

I had several email discussions with a technical guy at Interlux and he insisted that the batch I got was good. His conclusion was that when prepping the surface, after I'd wiped it down with their thinning solvent, maybe I had not waited long enough before putting down the polyurethane varnish, which could cause outgassing. He claimed that you should wait an hour after wiping it before putting on the varnish (although nowhere in their literature do I see that...), and I'd only waited 20 to 30 minutes. I had wiped the stuff on, then wiped it off until it was squeaky clean, and it seemed to me that it had evaporated, but I suppose it is a possibility.

Then the tech guy had their west coast sales rep contact me so that he could arrange to get me some replacement product (or so the tech guy said). Well, when the sales rep called, he said that the product was defective and there was no product available that he could assure me was not defective. Of course, they'll issue a refund, but it's pretty strange that I got such different responses.

Now I'm back at square one. I've got a test sample and on that I've sprayed a couple coats of Varathane gloss (water based). It's not going to be quite as impressive as I'd hoped, but it'll do. The down side is that it'll probably not be as durable, but this stuff is pretty user-friendly and not too stinky, so if I have to re-coat it once in a while, that won't be too bad.

I'll post some picture--hopefully sooner rather than later.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

...the plot thickens...indeed it does.

So now the tech guy says one thing and the sales rep another.

If I had my druthers I would believe the tech person every time. I really doubt the product was defective, except for one possibility.

Do you know what the shelf life is? And do you know the date of manufacture? Something to look into.

I would think that they would have had a run of complaints about that entire batch if, indeed, it was faulty in some way.

Try calling the tech chap back again and let him know what the sales rep told you. That doesn't sound right at all.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

Well, searching online there are definitely reports out there of problems and recalls with Interlux products. So, even if the stuff I had was not defective, I think the sales rep is probably correct in that there is a lot of bad product out there, so I couldn't be sure of getting a non-defective replacement. Btw, the manufacture date (according to the tech guy) was February 2009.

In any case, I already put on one coat of Varathane (water based) poly with a brush, and it looks OK. Today, I'll try to put on a couple more coats, sanding lightly between. Then for the top coat I might spray or wipe it on---haven't decided yet. Btw, this is the same stuff I used on my kitchen cabinets (except those are semi-gloss while this is gloss) and it's a dream to work with compared to the 2-part polyurethane. And even after all of my sanding, there's still a fairly good coat of the Perfection Plus over the epoxy. So, I suspect it's got pretty decent UV protection at this point.

Oh, and I also talked to a guy at a boat shop in Santa Cruz, where they do a lot of painting. He didn't think much of the Interlux products (or most of the other similar DIY products, for that matter). It was tempting to have them spray it, but it would've cost about $500 and moving the beast to their facility would be dicey. He actually suggested the Varathane, in spray form, saying that it would look good and he thought it probably be almost as durable in this application. Time will tell.


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy, you're treading in an area I have never before entered.

I will be extremely interested to hear how the water based Varathane sticks to the epoxy. If it manages OK for the balance of the summer outside, then good show I say.

I am a big fan of just about all of the water based Varathane products, I go through them by the gallon here.

They are dead easy to work with...no smell to speak of...quick drying...easy to sand...fast re-coat times...big coverage per gallon, something like 700 square feet and for the coverage, reasonably priced.

How it will survive outside I have no idea, but I'm more than happy to let you be the guinea pig on this one!


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Jeremy, you're treading in an area I have never before entered.
> 
> I will be extremely interested to hear how the water based Varathane sticks to the epoxy. If it manages OK for the balance of the summer outside, then good show I say.
> 
> ...


Actually, it's going to be inside on a kitchen island countertop.

Any hints for getting a super-smooth flawless top coat with the polyurethane? The first couple coats have left brush marks---no big deal to sand out and put on another coat, but not so great for the final finish. I experimented with a their spray can, but it left little bubbles, so maybe that's not going to be the best approach either.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

So now I'm curious how to put the final finish coat of polyurethane on hardwood floors. Whatever they do, a similar process should work for me.

Here's what I've done so far... Two coats by brush, with light sanding before the second. I just now put on a 3rd coat, but tried something different, since I was getting a lot of brush marks. For this one, I didn't sand first (pressed for time...). I used a roller, in spite of the fact that the instructions specifically say not to use a roller. But, it was not a paint roller---it was one of those ultra-thin sponge rollers that are used for epoxy. That only took maybe five minutes to complete. However, it left an orange peel look, so I tipped it off by lightly dragging a sponge brush over the surface. From start to finish, the whole process took maybe 10 minutes and it looks better (so far at least...) than either brushed-on coat. The roller seemed to give a more even coat than I could get with the brush, and the "tipping off'' smoothed it out. I think if I had a really wide sponge brush (like 12" or so), that would yield even beter results.

Anyways, if anybody has suggestions, I'm all ears (eyes, actually).


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

I finally decided to declare victory. Then I put the slab in its intended countertop position only to discover it's just too massive. Although I'd measured it all out carefully, it looked a lot different than I'd expected. The kitchen is small and the slab is large---not an ideal combination. 

So, I've decided to make a table out of it, but it's going to be a while before I get around to constructing the legs. Eventually, we'll use the table on our deck, which gets quite a bit of rain, on rare occasion a light dusting of snow (it never stays for more than a few hours), and just a little sun. I think it should hold up well.

A side benefit is that the slab looks great outdoors. Those minor blemishes that annoyed me so much indoors are completely unnoticeable outside.

I've included a few final photos (at least for now). Btw, that's me in the centerfold pose, and I'm a little over 6' tall.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

After all that work, it's too bad it wouldn't look right in the kitchen. But it will make a beautiful table on your deck. 

I hope you'll continue this thread when you start making the legs for the table. It's been very interesting so far.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

That is a nice slab of wood :thumbsup:


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> I finally decided to declare victory. Then I put the slab in its intended countertop position only to discover it's just too massive. Although I'd measured it all out carefully, it looked a lot different than I'd expected. The kitchen is small and the slab is large---not an ideal combination.
> 
> So, I've decided to make a table out of it, but it's going to be a while before I get around to constructing the legs. Eventually, we'll use the table on our deck, which gets quite a bit of rain, on rare occasion a light dusting of snow (it never stays for more than a few hours), and just a little sun. I think it should hold up well.
> 
> ...


Well, a couple of things come to mind here...have you spoken with Hugh Hefner about a photo shoot? 

And while you're waiting to build the legs for the table get a nice soft foamie and you've got somewhere else to relax.

I don't know what sort of legs you will use, but if you remember I mentioned that I was doing a far smaller and much less significant table than yours awhile ago - well, it's coming along OK now.

I'm using arbutus for the legs and have finished the varnishing just this morning on them.

I don't know how to put links in properly here, but my thread with all this stuff is at http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/gulf-island-building-34958
The table legs and whatnot start on page 112, and there is a half decent pic of the top at post #1754.


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## Jeremy Hillary Boob PhD (Nov 11, 2008)

cocobolo said:


> Well, a couple of things come to mind here...have you spoken with Hugh Hefner about a photo shoot?
> 
> And while you're waiting to build the legs for the table get a nice soft foamie and you've got somewhere else to relax.
> 
> ...


I skimmed thru some of your postings and you've got an amazing project going there. What an awesome place to live. But the real question is, how's the fishing?

I've been scouting around for some potential legs, and there's lots of good looking stuff from downed trees along the roadsides and in firewood piles. So, no shortage of raw material, just a shortage of time and desire (at the moment).

As for Hugh Hefner, I think I'll probably have to wait until they start having centerfolds in woodworking magazines...


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## cocobolo (Dec 16, 2008)

Jeremy Hillary Boob said:


> I skimmed thru some of your postings and you've got an amazing project going there. What an awesome place to live. But the real question is, how's the fishing?
> 
> I've been scouting around for some potential legs, and there's lots of good looking stuff from downed trees along the roadsides and in firewood piles. So, no shortage of raw material, just a shortage of time and desire (at the moment).
> 
> As for Hugh Hefner, I think I'll probably have to wait until they start having centerfolds in woodworking magazines...


:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:


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