# Whirlpool Side By Side Not Making Ice Anymore!!



## handy man88

The icemaker for my Stainless Steel Side by Side Whirlpool refrigerator is crapping out on me. Model # is GS5SHGXL501 and was manufactured on 2/03. Very little ice is being made these last few days, and production is decreasing by day. I saw on the Whirlpool website that I can buy an icemaker. Has anyone removed and installed one of these before? 

I'm good at tinkering, but if this is a time consuming job, I don't want to waste time and have the fridge shut down while I try to figure things out. Also, instead of probing through and troubleshooting the existing ice maker, I'm hoping a full replacement will eliminate the problem. I'm assuming all electrical connections are via snap connectors and water connections are via basic twist valves.

Whirlpool's website does not include a pdf file showing the instructions, that that's why I'm here now, to see if anyone's done this before. Cost of icemaker is around $100 off their website, while cost to just have a repair guy to drive to my house is $65, and that amount won't be credited to my cost if I proceed with the repair. Thanks ahead of time!


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## jeff1

Hi,



> GS5SHGXL501


That is likely GS5SHGXL*S*01



> Very little ice is being made these last few days, and production is decreasing by day.


Low water pressure ( tired filter, kinked line, clogged fill valve, clogged shut off valve ), bad icemaker, freezer temp ( must get below 15ºF ) are some common trouble makers.



> I saw that I can buy an icemaker. Has anyone removed and installed one of these before?


Many...but each years style is getting to be different nowadays. Fairly easy job to R&R the icemaker. It is held to the freezer wall with 2-3 screws.









Replacement Icemaker mechanism used on GS5SHGXLS01

jeff.


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## handy man88

Thanks for your reply.

Overall, the refrigerator is fine. The temperature does not seem to be the problem, the water filter has been replaced (no problems with drinking water from fridge), and none of the lines on the oustide are kinked as the fridge has not been moved. Is it possible to kink lines on the inside of the fridge when storing food?

I think what I will do is this following test that I found on the net, which involves disassembling the solenoid valve and cleaning the filter and checking the resistance of solenoid valve. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Unfortunately, I got a blister while poking around the icemaker and accidentally touching the cold element. Hope this means it's just a clogged water line.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/home_improvement/1276061.html


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## jeff1

> Is it possible to kink lines on the inside of the fridge when storing food?


Not normally no.



> I think what I will do is this following test that I found on the net, which involves disassembling the solenoid valve and cleaning the filter and checking the resistance of solenoid valve.


Checking resistance is good, but the fill valve can pass a continuity test but still fail mechanically.....your valve won't come apart like the one in the acticle....the article shows an older style.









Water inlet valve kit with new quick connections

jeff.


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## handy man88

If my valve won't come apart as easily, will I still have access to the filter element somehow and be able to put it back together?

My icemaker is now for all intents and purposes dead. Less and less water was entering the tray to the point where almost no more water is entering the icemaker as ice production has ground to a halt. I poked my finger in to check. Based on this, would you say that the valve is more likely to be dead rather than the ice maker itself?


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## jeff1

> If my valve won't come apart as easily, will I still have access to the filter element somehow and be able to put it back together?


??
The refrigerators water filter?



> My icemaker is now for all intents and purposes dead. Less and less water was entering the tray to the point where almost no more water is entering the icemaker as ice production has ground to a halt


Some not filling with water...
http://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker.html#water

jeff.


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## handy man88

No, what I meant was the filter element in the solenoid in the fill valve, whether it's difficult to access this element by taking the fill valve apart.

I live in a relatively new house, and upon further inspection, there is a dedicated water line for the refrigerator. Therefore, there was no self piercing shut off valve that was installed onto a copper pipe. In fact, the house for the most part has the flowguard pvc piping, so the self piercing shut off valve would probably not work.


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## jeff1

Newer valves aren't meant to come apart.



> so the self piercing shut off valve would probably not work.


Good, not used 

jeff.


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## handy man88

The water inlet valve with the QD's that you have linked earlier, does the it not come with regular twist connections anymore?


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## jeff1

handy man88 said:


> The water inlet valve with the QD's that you have linked earlier, does the it not come with regular twist connections anymore?


Most valves today are the push in connectors without the screw on nuts.

jeff.


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## handy man88

I assume for safety reasons, these valves fail shut. Also, does the kit contain QD adapters to fit into my existing screw on supply line? Does the kit come with the extra tubing shown in the picture?


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## jeff1

> does the kit contain QD adapters to fit into my existing screw on supply line?


Most fill valves do not come with the nut and olive for the copper/plastic supply lines. SS line will thread right on without any fittings. Comes with a thread protector. 



> Does the kit come with the extra tubing shown in the picture?


That is what is shows yes.















and instructions.

jeff.


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## handy man88

So, I'm not getting any water in the ice maker reservoir. When there was water (my finger in the reservoir to check), the ice maker made ice. You think this fill valve is most likely the culprit?

I peeked behind the fridge and saw the dedicated supply line. There was a braided extension hose that connects to the fill valve in the fridge. Are the instructions available online via a pdf file?


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## jeff1

> You think this fill valve is most likely the culprit?


When the icemaker goes through it's cycle/havest and power ( 100-110 volts ) is found at the fill valve but no water flows, bad fill valve is very likely yes...we would normally then check for ice in the fill tube and elbow ( mentioned at the link ) and if clear, change out the fill valve and retest.



> Are the instructions available online via a pdf file?


For the fill valve repalcement? I doubt it.

jeff.


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## handy man88

I pulled the refrigerator back and noticed that the top of the tube feeding the fill spout had water up to the top with air at the very top. I removed the fill inlet valve, took it apart, and clearly it's not a solenoid filter problem. If it was, then I would not be getting water or ice, as there is a single supply port that feeds both ice and water solenoids. I have no water problems, just water supply for ice. 

I measured the resistance for the ice solenoid and it's 170 ohms, which is below the 200-500 range as reported by Popular Mechanics, assuming this applies to my fill valve also. Voltage across the water solenoid is 4.2 volts without the water lever depressed, 120 volts depressed which is good. Voltage across the ice solenoid is 2.8 volts with the ice arm up or down (ON position).

Based on this, I suspect that the icemaker is not telling the solenoid valve to open to allow water to enter the tray because voltage remains constant whether the icemaker arm is up or down. Does this mean the icemaker is kaput, not the inlet valve? 

I double checked the serial #'s and they are as follows:

Fridge: GS5SHGXLS01
Inlet valve: Model X72, Part # 2205762


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## jeff1

> Voltage across the ice solenoid is 2.8 volts with the ice arm up or down (ON position).


Do remember the fill part is near the end of the icemakers cycle and will be approx 6-9 seconds long.



> Based on this, I suspect that the icemaker is not telling the solenoid valve to open to allow water to enter the tray because voltage remains constant whether the icemaker arm is up or down. Does this mean the icemaker is kaput, not the inlet valve?


If the icemaker went through a complete harvest and no power was sent to the fill valve, then yes a bad icemaker ( common ) or broken wire between the icemaker and fill valve ( rare ) would be suspected.

jeff.


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## handy man88

Good point. How do I begin this cycle? Do I put the icemaker arm at off, touch my leads on my multimeter onto the solenoid contacts, switch the icemaker to on, and then wait and watch to see if the voltage jumps to 120 volts within 10 seconds?

How does the icemaker know that it's empty and needs a refill to make another batch of ice? I put my finger into the icemaker and there is a tiny bit of ice inside. 

I think what I will maybe do is pour a glass of water into the icemaker and see if the icemaker produces ice, and what it will do after that just as an experiment.

Update: I poured some water into the ice tray. The water of course froze, but the icemaker did not kick the ice out.


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## jeff1

> How do I begin this cycle?


Short T & H with an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) with the ends of the wire bare approx 1/2" to run the motor.












> touch my leads on my multimeter onto the solenoid contacts, switch the icemaker to on, and then wait and watch to see if the voltage jumps to 120 volts within 10 seconds?


Yes, yes, close....power will be there for the last 6-9 seconds of the cycle, will take the icemaker a minute or two to get there.



> How does the icemaker know that it's empty and needs a refill to make another batch of ice?


Rake fingers always will dump any cubes inside as the icemaker goes, thermostat in the body mold tells the icemaker the body is cold enough to run and freeze the water, thermostat will open when the cubes disappear and the mold body has warmed up.



> I think what I will maybe do is pour a glass of water into the icemaker and see if the icemaker produces ice, and what it will do after that just as an experiment


Hopefully dump the cubes once they are frozen and go through a fill cycle.



> I poured some water into the ice tray. The water of course froze, but the icemaker did not kick the ice out


Give it an hour or two.

jeff.


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## handy man88

Icemaker never dumped the cubes 9 hours later, so I removed it and ran it through hot water just to start the test from scratch.

Using a 12 gauge wire (all I had), I shorted T and H. I saw the dial rotate. At least 5 minutes went by with no change in voltage at the connector (remained at 2.8 volts). At 110 seconds, I heard a click, and then 120 seconds, another click, but no change in voltage. I don't know if this click means anything. Checked the icemaker after 5 minutes and the coil was hot (defrost?). Pulled the plug on the fridge and ran experiment again, but nothing changed. Icemaker remained hot.

I removed the wire at T and H, and reinstalled the icemaker's cover plate and plugged the fridge in. Checked the voltage again, and at 130 seconds, saw the voltage drop to zero even though I did not move the multimeter's probes. Coil is cooling down. Postioned the arm off and then on, and monitored voltage, but no change from 2.8 volts. 

I don't think there's an open circuit between the icemaker and the fill valve because if it there was an open circuit, then I would get a voltage of zero, but instead, I get a voltage of 2.8.

Does this confirm a bad icemaker?


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## jeff1

Does not sound good for the icemaker.

jeff.


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## handy man88

Installed a replacement ice maker. Still no water. When I go to cycle the fridge, at about 110 seconds, I hear a click and another click at 120 seconds, with a drop in voltage to 0 at the water inlet solenoid. Could there be some sort of bad relay? The back of the fridge cannot be accessed, as the panel seems riveted into the fridge.

I tried the short test and see the fingers rotating, so there is power to the icemaker. Checked contacts at the water inlet solenoid, and voltage remained at 2.8 volts past 3 minutes. Any more ideas?


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## oddjob

I had an ice maker on a side by side that formed an ice blockage at the ice maker in the fill line where it comes in, cleared it and working fine now, but not sure what caused it


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## jeff1

Ignore the 2.8 volts!



> Installed a replacement ice maker


With the new icemaker ready, have your meter ready on the fill valve. Install the U wire to start the icemaker, once the icemaker starts to run and you hear the first click remove the U wire and close the freezer door. Let the icemaker run through, post results.

jeff.


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## handy man88

oddjob said:


> I had an ice maker on a side by side that formed an ice blockage at the ice maker in the fill line where it comes in, cleared it and working fine now, but not sure what caused it


How did you clear it?


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## handy man88

Do you want me to monitor voltage afer removing the U wire? 

Also, the new icemaker comes without the icemaker "controller." This controller attaches to the front face of the icemaker, and has a switch for more ice vs. regular. On the backside, this controller has two contacts that plug T and H. Since the new icemaker did not come with a new controller, I just mated the old controller to the new icemaker.


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## oddjob

handy man88 said:


> How did you clear it?


 
I used a small instrument screwdriver to clear the ice from the tube as it entered the tray


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## handy man88

With the new icemaker, I installed the U wire and the icemaker immediately started the defrost mode. This defrost mode did not stop, as the fingers kept rotating and the shut off arm kept going up and down. The wheel in the front rotated continuously. Once I removed the U wire, wheel kept turning and the porcelain tray remained hot. No water coming out, but I noticed there was a very small trickle in the previously dry water line. I monitored this, but no more water came out.

I then installed the front controller, and the porcelain tray cooled down. I also switched the controller to "ice plus." Nothing is happening with regard to icemaking, just like the old icemaker. The porcelain tray is cool, but the element is not cold enough to freeze water to make ice.


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## oddjob

The water line at the ice maker is clear.......right?


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## jeff1

> Do you want me to monitor voltage afer removing the U wire?


I usually have the meter set up before starting the icemaker...but yes, the wire is used to start the icemaker and once running remove the wire and watch the volt meter.



> Also, the new icemaker comes without the icemaker "controller." This controller attaches to the front face of the icemaker, and has a switch for more ice vs. regular. On the backside, this controller has two contacts that plug T and H. Since the new icemaker did not come with a new controller, I just mated the old controller to the new icemaker.


Might be an good idea to remove that.

jeff.


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## handy man88

My multimeter only has probes, not alligator clips, so I didn't bother monitoring the voltage. See my input above, as I provided some more results based on my testing last night. Also, why does your recommended ice maker not include a controller? Could the controller go bad?


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## handy man88

It appears open. I stuck a coathanger down the line last night and did not feel anything.


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## jeff1

> My multimeter only has probes, not alligator clips, so I didn't bother monitoring the voltage.


At the fill valve you didn't measure when the icemaker was started, the wire was removed and the icemaker was allowed to cycle through? Push the meter probes in the plastic covers for the fill valve termianls or tape the meter probes to the fill valve termianls.



> why does your recommended ice maker not include a controller? Could the controller go bad?


Controller? 
Module?

jeff.


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## handy man88

Yes, initially, I had the multimeter in contact with the connectors and plugged the fridge in. From there, I had my wife pull the U wire. I didn't see a noticeable change in voltage (2.8 volts), so I didn't bother checking the voltage anymore with the tests I ran after that. Based on all that I've done, I can't figure out what the problem is. The biggest thing is that the inlet valve connector is not reaching 120 volts, so thus the valve is not opening to allow water to flow to the icemaker.

Yes, module. It's the part that plugs into the icemaker and has probes that plub into T and H. There's also an "Ice Plus" and "Normal" switch.


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## jeff1

> There's also an "Ice Plus" and "Normal" switch


I'd leave that off.



> Yes, module. - why does your recommended ice maker not include a controller?


Icemaker comes with the module...or I should say the module comes with the icemaker kit:









Replacement Icemaker mechanism used on GS5SHGXLS01



> Yes, initially, I had the multimeter in contact with the connectors and plugged the fridge in. From there, I had my wife pull the U wire. I didn't see a noticeable change in voltage (2.8 volts), so I didn't bother checking the voltage anymore with the tests I ran after that.


How long did you wait? Takes a few minutes for the icemaker to cycle before calling for water.....*basics*, no power _at_ the fill valve = no power from the icemaker or a broken wire between the icemaker and fill valve...power _at_ the fill valve and the house water line is ok = bad fill valve. 

Tan from the icemaker often goes to the fill valve, can try a temperary wire from tan at the icemaker to the fill valve.

Diagram I found online

jeff.


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## handy man88

For the most part, I think we can rule out a bad fill valve because there is no upramp in voltage regardless of how long I monitor the connector.

I waited about 3 - 4 minutes total from the plugging in the fridge, to pulling out the U wire, to the very end. I do notice that when I have the U wire plugged in, the porcelain base is ALWAYS hot, which to me says it's defrosting. Don't know why that is.

The picture that you have attached does not include the module. The white portion is just a plastic cap. There are no electronics in that cap (ie. no dual plugs that go into T and H). My existing icemaker has a whole electronics module that does have the T and H contacts, along with "Ice Plus" and "Normal" switches.

If the tan wire was bad, it would be an open circuit and I would get a zero voltage reading instead of 2.8 volts. Right?


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## jeff1

> I do notice that when I have the U wire plugged in, the porcelain base is ALWAYS hot, which to me says it's defrosting. Don't know why that is.


T H is thermostat, with it bypassed the mold heater will come on.



> The picture that you have attached does not include the module. The white portion is just a plastic cap. There are no electronics in that cap


There should be. We have used the kit before.









Motor and Gear Module



> If the tan wire was bad, it would be an open circuit and I would get a zero voltage reading instead of 2.8 volts. Right?


The other side of the fill valve is connected to the neutral which is common to everything in the refrigerator....ignore the ghost voltage reading.

jeff.


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## handy man88

Something tells me that the mold heater remains on even after I remove the U wire.

Yes, the icemaker has the motor and gear module attached to it, but there is no separate module that controls "ice plus" or "normal." that attaches to the motor and gear module. This separate module must control the entire icemaker as it has prongs that plug into T & H also, nevermind just "ice plus" or "normal."

Am I measuring the wrong contacts? The solenoid has two prongs, and the electrical connector thus has two female connections. I've been sticking the MM probe in opposite connections in the same electrical connector, thus the ghost 2.8 volt reading.


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## jeff1

> but there is no separate module that controls "ice plus" or "normal." that attaches to the motor and gear module.


Remove it.



> Am I measuring the wrong contacts?


Unknown since we cannot see from here...










...red coil appears to be icemaker as it has the 1/4" line, the other coil should be for chilled water since it's exit line appears to be 5/16".










jeff.


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## handy man88

Yes, that's exactly how I checked first, and then hooked it up.


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## jeff1

If the fill valve works ok with a test cord, already have a new icemaker with new module but still cannot get power to the fill valve...leaves an open wire between the two items.
Worth a try!

JMO

jeff.


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## handy man88

I did not try a test cord. I'm up for danger, but not too crazy about doing such destructive testing. I mean, I'm not getting anywhere near 120 volts at the solenoid connector, so trying a test cord wouldn't be priority. 

Sounds like either an open wire/broken connection, or maybe a loose connection at the connector itself (ie. female connection not contacting the prongs.).


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## handy man88

Also, I didn't replace the wiring harness with any of the multiple wiring harnesses that came with the new icemaker when I switched out the old icemaker. The existing wiring harness seems to have a hotdog shaped cover/interface on the inside wall of the fridge. How is this harness removed without taking the inside wall panel out? Is there any reason to suspect it could be a wiring harness gone bad?


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## handy man88

Repairman stopped by and I told him what I had done. He jumped L and V and water came out! By him jumping L & V, that proves that the valve does lift and water does come to the icemaker. 

I told him that I had installed the new icemaker and that it did not request water and thus did not produce ice, so I removed it. He told me that I should leave the new icemaker in and within 2 hours, ice should be made, otherwise it would be a valve problem. Takes 2-3 days for it to get on a roll. Ambient temperature in the freezer directly affects ice making. Charged me $57.99 - 10% for showing up. Discount came b/c my realtor referred his company. 

I reinstalled the new icemaker, closed the fridge, and left it alone. After about 1/2 hour, you could hear it working again. Ice was being made, so there's nothing wrong with valve and no need to make a dangerous test cord. With the new icemaker installed, everything works fine now.


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## noice

How did the repairman "jump" L and V?


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## handy man88

noice said:


> How did the repairman "jump" L and V?


Very easy. Take a ~4 inch piece of 12 gauge wire. Strip both ends by about 3/4 inch. Bend into a U shape, and just plug it into the L and V holes.


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## noice

Got it, thanks. I jumped mine as you suggest, and I was able to fill the ice maker. That appears to eliminate the valve as the problem.

Did your's just start working after the initial jump? I get a bit of water but it doesn't appear to fill completely - guess I'll just wait another day and see if it regulates itself. Or there appears to be a plastic adjustment screw. Playing with that might adjust the fill level.


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## handy man88

Yes, if you can get the fill valve to open by jumping it, that means the icemaker is able to tell the fill valve to open. What you do is just leave the icemaker alone from here on. It should start producing ice in about 2-3 hours as the icemaker's temperature drops down. Dump the first two buckets of ice.


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## noice

Drat. That's what I thought too. I left it alone for a day, but the ice maker still won't trigger the valve to fill. I hear it cycling every hour or so, but the valve never opens. Any ideas? I'm pretty sure the temp . in the freezer's low enough. I measured it and the temp. was well below 15 degrees. Thanks for your help thus far.


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## handy man88

Did you say that you installed a new ice maker? If you did, then you might have to replace the fill valve, especially if only a small amount comes out after you jump the two holes.


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## noice

I don't think it was a small amount - it was enough to fill the mold within 5 or so seconds. And wouldn't a slow valve just result in small cubes? My ice maker won't even open the valve unless it's jumped.


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## noice

Doesn't anyone have an idea as to why my ice maker won't fill?

The valve works when jumped and sufficiently fills the ice maker - so no valve problem or clogs in the water lines.

The cycle initiates on its own when the temperature drops - so no thermostat problem. The ice maker cycles and does everything BUT open the valve.

What's the deal??? Please help. I've already spend $100+ on a new ice maker and countless hours troubleshooting this thing. I will not let it beat me!!!


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## handy man88

Is your freezer cold enough? Do you have soft ice cream?


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## noice

A few days ago I lowered the temp. in the freezer from its previous level. The ambient air in the freezer is now around 3 degrees, which, from what I understand should be enough to trigger the fill cycle. Granted, this is a reading of the air temp. within the freezer, not a measure of the ice maker's tray temperature.

Does anyone know if a first thermostat reading triggers the ice maker to cycle and a second thermostat reading (like one that measures the tray temperature) initiates the fill? 

I really don't understand how I can have a cold enough temp to initiate the ice making cycle, but the temp isn't cold enough to initiate the fill. 

What triggers the ice maker to fill? Anyone?


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## bushpilot

sounds EXACTLY like my problem... !



Whirlpool Gold - GS6SHEXNS02 
Frustration would be an understatement at this point.

Ive replaced the optics (as the troubleshooting diagnostics indicated), then discovered the harvest motor / auger would not run.

Ive *NOW replaced the harvester and the motor runs non stop* :no:

water never files the tray (i have tested the valve manually & the valve can flow water, and the water tube is not blocked), *could *
*it be that water never fills the tray because the harvester/auger is constantly running/turning ??*

Ive MANUALLY filled the mold and the water did freeze (in fact it froze
enough to stop the harvester/auger mid rotation in the water) :laughing:

I dont wanna keep throwing expensive parts at this thing, do i need to replace the mold/heater portion now ?? will it solve my problem ?? :furious:


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## new tech guy

handy man88 said:


> Very easy. Take a ~4 inch piece of 12 gauge wire. Strip both ends by about 3/4 inch. Bend into a U shape, and just plug it into the L and V holes.


where can u find these L & V holes?
mine has a same problem no ice from ice mashine.
pls help me too.


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## handy man88

new tech guy said:


> where can u find these L & V holes?
> mine has a same problem no ice from ice mashine.
> pls help me too.


These holes should be labeled.


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## decamsr

If replacing the ice maker in your side by side is as easy as replacing the one in my gold series side by side it should only take about 10-15 minutes, depending on how complete the ice maker comes to you. I had to take one part from my old one and put it on the new one and that was it. It should have only one screw in the bottom holding it in a slide out groove and a wiring harness to unplug and the reverse when installing and you are done. Good luck. 
PS: It may take some time before the ice maker starts to work as it has to cool to @10-15 degrees before it "wakes up".:thumbup:


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## matt_jk

*Same Problem as noice*

Is this thread still alive? I'm having the same issue as noice... I've got a brand new ice maker, and if I jumper "L" and "V" I can get a good healthy supply of water out of the tube. However if I leave the ice maker running it won't fill. I can manually fill the tray with water and it will freeze, the ice maker wakes up and rotates the arm and shoves out the ice, but I sat and watched it and it never engages the water fill. I can't imagine where the problem is, it is a new ice maker, and if I jumper it, water comes out the tube. If I don't jumper, no water. The ice maker appears to be working in every other way... Noice, what did you do to resolve?


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