# Stuck ball valve



## partner (Mar 26, 2015)

I found the main water shut off valve in my daughters townhouse was stuck and would not turn off the water. I had her spray the valve with wd40 a couple of times a week for a couple of weeks. Last time I was over I used a wrench and with a good bit of effort I got it slowly moving a little back and forth. After a while, I got it to move most of its 1/4 turn full range. Its pretty much straight with the water pipe when in the full on position but it is a few degrees from perpendicular when in the off position. The problem is that it doesn't turn off the water. It doesn't even seem to be slowing the water down. It doesn't want to go that last few degrees off. Is it possible that there is something (debris) that is keeping it from going 90 degrees? There is still a lot of resistance turning it so I am pretty sure the stem hasn't broken off from the valve. Anyone have any advise to help.
thanks


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

partner said:


> Is it possible that...


Lot's of things could be possible.
The practical reality is that the TIME required to go deeper into diagnostics 
of a ~$10 component would probably be better spent replacing it.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

It sounds like a PVC valve. You didn't indicate in your OP. If so, replacement is the best option as it won't get better and one day your wrench will cause it to break and flood. The guy who invented PVC ball valves should have been tarred and feathered. Replace it with a good brass valve.


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## partner (Mar 26, 2015)

chandler48 said:


> It sounds like a PVC valve. You didn't indicate in your OP. If so, replacement is the best option as it won't get better and one day your wrench will cause it to break and flood. The guy who invented PVC ball valves should have been tarred and feathered. Replace it with a good brass valve.



It is a brass ball valve. Honeywell Braukmann. Otherwise I would not have put a wrench on it.
Any other ideas?


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## partner (Mar 26, 2015)

TarheelTerp said:


> Lot's of things could be possible.
> The practical reality is that the TIME required to go deeper into diagnostics
> of a ~$10 component would probably be better spent replacing it.


It may be a less than $10 component, but in this area it would cost a couple of 100 dollars to get a plumber to replace it. 

For a valve that may never need to be used, I think I'll pass on your suggestion.
Any other ideas.


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

partner said:


> For a valve that may never need to be used,
> I think I'll pass on your suggestion.


Nope. That is the #1 most important valve in the house.
ps... snotty much?



> in this area it would cost a couple of 100 dollars to get a plumber to replace it.


I'm from that area. I managed to learn how to sweat copper while there.
You should try that too. Or pay the freight.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

is it at the main city water supply ?

I had the same issue when I lived in WV and called the city water dept.
to come free it loose - - - just in case something broke, they could take
care of it . . . if I broke it, it would have been catastrophic until the water dept
arrived on scene to take care of it. (they ended up replacing the 50 year old valve).


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

I'm still not clear on what the valve looks like. Maybe a picture would allow more specific recommendations.

If it's a typical metal valve (not PVC) then something like PB Blaster, rather than WD40, would be my starting point. A cheater bar on the handle, moved back and forth a little at a time, usually does the trick. Older ball valves had a nut which could be loosened, and then a couple of taps with a hammer would free things up a bit.

None of which I'd even try if there's a chance the water company or department would take on the job. Just having them there to address anything that might go wrong would be great. Having them take the lead would be ideal.


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## chiraldude (Nov 16, 2013)

It will be a pain but you really need to replace that valve. You need to be able to shut off the water!
Call the city and schedule them to shut off from the street. Shouldn't cost that much for city shutoff/restart. Then replace the $15 valve.


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## partner (Mar 26, 2015)

See attachment. Ignore all the junk on the wall behind, it is not attached. The photo was upright when I uploaded. I don't know why its sideways now.

I am past the point where PB blaster or a cheater bar would help. 

See the original post. The oval slot on the handle that fit over the stem was rounded out, therefore I had to use a wrench to turn. I have turned the stem almost 90 degrees but it is not turning the water off. It does have the nut, but loosening it did nothing but drip water. 

Any more ideas?


CaptTom said:


> I'm still not clear on what the valve looks like. Maybe a picture would allow more specific recommendations.
> 
> If it's a typical metal valve (not PVC) then something like PB Blaster, rather than WD40, would be my starting point. A cheater bar on the handle, moved back and forth a little at a time, usually does the trick. Older ball valves had a nut which could be loosened, and then a couple of taps with a hammer would free things up a bit.
> 
> None of which I'd even try if there's a chance the water company or department would take on the job. Just having them there to address anything that might go wrong would be great. Having them take the lead would be ideal.


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## chiraldude (Nov 16, 2013)

Other than working back and forth and whacking with a hammer with the nut loose, there's nothing else you can do to close that valve. Until you get off and tear it apart there's no way of knowing why it won't close.

City shutoff and replace valve is the best option. If that's not an option for some reason, you can have a plumber bring a pipe freeze kit and replace the valve without shutting off the water. Not going to be cheap though. 

If you are an adventurous DIY hacker, there are a number of web pages and YouTube videos showing how to do the pipe freeze with "freeze spray" or dry ice. Never tried it myself though:laugh:


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

partner said:


> See attachment.
> Any more ideas?


Nope... same as before.
The meter valve at the curb requires a $10 "curb key" 

...but most muni's will shut if off (and back on again later) for free. 

Coordinating that is worth the $10 tool cost.

Then it's about removing the existing valve and replacing it. 
Another $10 item.

If you have to HIRE someone to do this work... so be it.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

We're fairly certain ball valves weren't an early invention but that valve looks as if it was dragged through the salty Atlantic behind the Mayflower. Possibly used in another application at some point?, buried?, frozen? I don't suppose we'll ever know that history. Replace it is the only solution for that poor ole thing.


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