# How to add blocking w/ steel or metal studs



## bergerdude (Jan 3, 2010)

Hi,
It seems pretty simple...so sorry if a dumb question.
I m gearing up to use steel studs for the perimeter of my basement wall finishing. Why? With two small kids, it seems like a quieter process than with wood studs after bedtime! Screws, not hammering, etc. 

Anyway there are other benefits. I am VERY picky when it comes to straight boards and I can save some time by picking out less wooden 2x4's since I still plan on using wood around doors, PT as a plate with a barrier from the track, and around escape windows too...whatever seems tricky with steel I will do with wood.

Anyway, I haven't decided on the insulation process, or whether to dryloc or not dryloc the walls, vaporbarrier, etc. etc....subjects for a different thread.

HOW does one add blocking, let's say 2'x16" of 1/2 plywood between then metal studs for blocking? 

Since the studs are C shaped, I can drill in from the front on one stud to hold the blocking, but then do I need to (carefully) screw in from the side of the adjacent stud into the 1/2" end of the board? There won't be a overhang since the stud "C" will be pointing away from the board. Like this... C-----C C C C
---is the plywood.

Maybe I am missing something.

Thanks!


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

You can made horizontal pieces with the steel studs. For a 16" opening, use a 24" piece of steel stud. Make an inverted "V" cut the size of the stud to stud opening(in the middle of the 24"stud). This way you'll have a 4" tail on either side. You bend each side up so the stud is now a "U" shape. If you did it correctly, the two channels should lock into the vertical studs. You put screws throught the "V" tail on each stud.
Ron


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

the other method if you prefer the wood which i do since you can use larger timber is to take a router and rout the depth of the channel on one end. Would also suggest using scrap blocks for base at inside corners. I also like to make detailed notes on a floor plan for blocking locations and then try not to lose it:whistling2:


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## stubborn1 (Oct 24, 2008)

In the commercial world, we use both 2x6 and 3/4 plywood depending on the application. It's normally 2x6 for running trim and plywood if we have a wall with a lot of misc items to hang without exact locations known. If you are doing a large quantity, cut down a bunch of 2xs to the proper length for your stud spacing. Then, cut a groove in the face with a table saw for the "c" return so the blocking fits snug. Face screw the side that fits in the groove, edge screw/nail the other side.


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## bergerdude (Jan 3, 2010)

stubborn1 said:


> In the commercial world, we use both 2x6 and 3/4 plywood depending on the application. It's normally 2x6 for running trim and plywood if we have a wall with a lot of misc items to hang without exact locations known. If you are doing a large quantity, cut down a bunch of 2xs to the proper length for your stud spacing. Then, cut a groove in the face with a table saw for the "c" return so the blocking fits snug. Face screw the side that fits in the groove, edge screw/nail the other side.


I was thinking about whether using a PT base under the track would make sense. The baseboard will be at minimum twice as high as the PT board, and then account for padding and carpeting....what good will the PT do?

Also, now that the "new" PT may react to steel....I'm thinking why mess with the heavy, twisted, wet PT boards anyway, right?

I like the plywood method better.

Berg


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

You may be correct that the P.T. will have an adverse effect on the metal track. I'd do some research to be on the safe side. I know that fasteners for P.T. lumber are supposed to be at least "double" galvanized and often stainless fasteners are recommended...


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

Ron6519 said:


> You can made horizontal pieces with the steel studs. For a 16" opening, use a 24" piece of steel stud. Make an inverted "V" cut the size of the stud to stud opening(in the middle of the 24"stud). This way you'll have a 4" tail on either side. You bend each side up so the stud is now a "U" shape. If you did it correctly, the two channels should lock into the vertical studs. You put screws throught the "V" tail on each stud.
> Ron


Is there a picture of that somewhere?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Do you really need the groove in the blocking? Won't the stud just flatten out? For the opposite side you can use a short scrap of studding and screw it back to back with the full stud.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

joed said:


> Do you really need the groove in the blocking? Won't the stud just flatten out?


I don't know. I was having a problem following Ron6519's post, but now I think he's talking about the piece in the top left picture. I figure the piece at the bottom left is good too (cut a slot in each corner of the stud and bend the web). It's more like bridging than blocking. I'm using 1-5/8" x 8' studs with two low voltage brackets so I want to stiffen it up.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Apparently you have never been in a commercial building when they are screwing steel framing together with screw guns. LOUD, and Annoying.

You can screw wood too, and it is much quieter than metal studs.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

Note that I'm not the top poster. My job is much smaller and I use a hand screwdriver.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Why cant you just screw 1 x 2 pine to one side, set back the thickness of the plywood to support the plywood, and screw the other side through the flange of the stud through the face of the plywood?


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## peakcelln (May 5, 2012)

If I'm reading this right, all you have to do is take a piece of track(Not Stud), figure out the length you want, plus 3-4" on each side. Snip the the sides of the track only where you want the dog ear and attach it to the metal stud. If you want to back it(And for your jams too) just put the corresponding wood size inside the stud and screw it off. Makes it a lot more square but with the strength of wood.

I think this is what Dorado above is illustrating. I did my whole walk out basement using steel and am now building a huge steel framed deck.

Hope this helps.


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