# Bathroom Vanity 1/4" too wide



## lukey19 (Nov 27, 2011)

My new bathroom vanity is 48" wide and the gap between my walls are 47 3/4". There is enough space to trim the cabinet on both sides but I am not sure of the best tool for the job. Please give me some experience with a new tool or a good idea of what to do.

Thanks,

Jay


----------



## Kader516 (Nov 5, 2011)

Not sure I follow. Can you post a picture.


----------



## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

Circular saw with a trim blade will work. Clamp a straight ege on to use as a guide. Check the wall to see if 1/4" is needed the whole way down. You can cut it out of square to match any wall discrepancies.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

It wouldn't hurt to score finish with a knife and/or putting masking tape up the length of the cut.


----------



## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

we use and hand plainer and belt sander always does nice job


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Probably all you have is a slight overhange to cut away, 1/4" X 3/4" maybe, is that correct?

A router with a bearing-straight-bit would also work or you could just gouge the drywall. I hate it when guys do that but hey, it works.


----------



## lukey19 (Nov 27, 2011)

lukey19 said:


> My new bathroom vanity is 48" wide and the gap between my walls are 47 3/4". There is enough space to trim the cabinet on both sides but I am not sure of the best tool for the job. Please give me some experience with a new tool or a good idea of what to do.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> ...


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Buds method is tried and true----I've done that dozens of times and the cut will be perfect--

However---you must make several passes with the router----tape thin strips of wood or formica to the side so the cut is less than 1/8" per cut---or the bit will cause some splitting.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

lukey19 said:


> lukey19 said:
> 
> 
> > My new bathroom vanity is 48" wide and the gap between my walls are 47 3/4". There is enough space to trim the cabinet on both sides but I am not sure of the best tool for the job. Please give me some experience with a new tool or a good idea of what to do.
> ...


----------



## lukey19 (Nov 27, 2011)

I posted pictures, does that help?


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Lukey----an isolating tool could make that cut but the cut will be uneven.

Do you have a friend with a router? Or a good sharp hand plane?---That cut must look perfect--it's a 'show' cut----A router with a straight cutting bit with a bearing on the bottom (laminate trimming bit)
Is the safest---

A good hand plane will do the same--but few people know how to use them any more---Mike---

(I'm a kitchen and bath guy---along with being a cabinet maker--I've done this many times)


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

Power planer










That's what I've been using ever since I heard about them


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

If you are looking for an excuse to buy a new oscillating tool then go buy one but don't try to use it for this purpose, it will not do a very good job and you run the risk of running off-course before you know it. Cut out the damned drywall and be done with it. Cut a channel 5/8" wide and 3/16" deep in the drywall and tuck the cabinet into the channel.


----------



## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

You don't mention anywhere how far back the cabinet needs to go. That bears on whether the cutting out of drywall is even feasible. If it only needs to go back 1/2" or so then that might be feasible but IMHO it will look like a hack and finishing off the edge of the cut drywall to make it clean and straight is going to be a fair amount of work if you're not practiced in patching and sanding drywall.

I would definitely go the trim the cabinet edges with a router route. You can control exactly how much you take off and have it perfectly even top to bottom. The key is going to be taking off a bit at a time...2, maybe even three passes to get a clean smooth edge on the final product.

All this presumes you know how to handle a router. If you do not, practice a few times on a scrap of similar dimensions to get comfortable.


----------



## lukey19 (Nov 27, 2011)

*Vanity problem*

tcleve4911

I was now thinking this might be my route. I will let you know.

It has to go back 3 more inches so i don't think I will be ripping out the drywall. The 1/4 is the whole way down the vanity.


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> It has to go back 3 more inches so i don't think I will be ripping out the drywall.


No one is saying anything about* "ripping out any drywall".*



> The 1/4 is the whole way down the vanity.


No kidding! It is a typical overhang on a typical cabinet face frame.



> The 1/4 is the whole way down the vanity. (power-plane)


You are asking for trouble. If you don't already own a power-plane then you don't possess enough experience with a power-plane to use a power-plane on this project. I see disaster looming.

Channel the drywall.


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

How about a photo that shows the area of where the cabinet is to go rather than a microscopic view of the cabinet corner?

How deep into that (alcove) is the cabinet to go?


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

I say again. Notch the drywall. Do it.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

Notching the drywall is the amateur way of taking care of this problem.

The cabinet comes with scribe flanges for a reason.
They are made to be cut and trimmed to fit an opening.

When I go to install cabinets, my power planer is the #1 tool I make sure is in the truck.

For those of you who don't have one in your arsenal, it'll be the best $145.00 you will ever spend........and yes I have the Bosch.....for several reasons


----------



## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> How about a photo that shows the area of where the cabinet is to go rather than a microscopic view of the cabinet corner?
> 
> How deep into that (alcove) is the cabinet to go?


He said 3". That that is more channeling than even Shirley MacLaine wants to get into.

I defer to Cleve on the power planer over the router. No doubt it's going to give a better result finish-wise than routing it.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Both the router and a planer will give a flawless fit---I would choose the tool that is easiest for the homeowner to get----


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> Both the router and a planer will give a flawless fit---I would choose the tool that is easiest for the homeowner to get----


Yes….. but if OP is going to purchase a tool for the job it should be a router. Way more likely to find future uses for than a planer.


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> He said 3". That that is more channeling than even Shirley MacLaine wants to get into.


No it's not! He only needs to sink the face-frame extension, not the entire cabinet-end.
Cut a channel 5/8" wide and 3/16" deep by 35" tall in the drywall and tuck the cabinet into the channel. Any slight damage that may occur to the face of the drywall can be easily repaired if need be.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> Notching the drywall is the amateur way of taking care of this problem.
> 
> The cabinet comes with scribe flanges for a reason.
> They are made to be cut and trimmed to fit an opening.
> ...


Don't tell me what amateur is. Amateur is still talking about this dead horse days after the original question. Just shove the damn thing in and move on. I could have done an entire house of cabinents including a new kitchen by now. Gzzzz...Get a clue people. It's a little vanity. This guy doesn't need to invest in a bunch of tools and probably destroy the thing in the process. Heck, take a hammer and a block of wood and beat the wall over a quarter inch. Quit standing around the thing like it's something from outer space that you don't have a clue how it works. Amateur. If you only knew.


----------



## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> No it's not! He only needs to sink the face-frame extension, not the entire cabinet-end.
> Cut a channel 5/8" wide and 3/16" deep by 35" tall in the drywall and tuck the cabinet into the channel. Any slight damage that may occur to the face of the drywall can be easily repaired if need be.


I think he is saying that the entire cabinet needs to slide directly back 3" from that corner. So the channel would need to be 3 and 3/16" deep.


----------



## Big Stud (Jul 3, 2011)

You show the left side in your pics, what about the right side? Can you just remove the drywall on that side? It looks like you will have the drawer rubbing on the left side if you cut it flush with the drawer face.


----------



## dgb2000 (Nov 29, 2011)

From the picture it looks like if you take the 1/4" on the one side the drawer will rub the wall. 

I vote for the router method to remove 1/8" from both sides.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

If you must cut it, score the face and then run the whole thing through a table saw if you're a little shy about a skillsaw


----------



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> If you must cut it, score the face and then run the whole thing through a table saw if you're a little shy about a skillsaw


Run the cabinet through a table saw ???


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> Run the cabinet through a table saw ???


There you have it. There are no more ways to make a vanity fit. Either chose one of those or build another cabinet. Good luck with it.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Bud Cline said:


> Run the cabinet through a table saw ???


:laughing: I've done that ---(when I blew a number while building a box in the shop)

The big saws can do that---not good with a portable---


----------



## RTRCon (Nov 20, 2007)

oh'mike said:


> :laughing: I've done that ---(when I blew a number while building a box in the shop)
> 
> The big saws can do that---not good with a portable---


I've also done it.. More than a few times:whistling2:


----------



## Big Stud (Jul 3, 2011)

RTRCon said:


> I've also done it.. More than a few times:whistling2:


What? Blown a number? Or run a cabinet through a table saw? :laughing:


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

titanoman said:


> Don't tell me what amateur is. Amateur is still talking about this dead horse days after the original question. *It's the internet....not a jobsite....*
> 
> Just shove the damn thing in and move on. *That's amateurish again....*
> 
> ...


*You sound like a young gun outa control that beats on his projects rather than finessing them into place.
If I caught you doing that on one of my projects, you'd be outa there so quick....

...but hey...that may be how you roll.....*


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Tcleve---You got me laughing---Thanks---


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Geez, Guys! You have missed the two most obvious ways to fix this situation.

One, rip all the drywall off one wall... shucks, make it BOTH walls... slide the vanity in, then lock it all in place with new drywall.

Two, grab your power sander and sand down both walls 1/8" (you'll have to do the full area of both walls to keep things smooth), then slide the vanity in, and skim coat the whole mess. Of course the three days of trying to clean up all the dust may cause a little friction with the wife.... but that's merely the cost of remodeling.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> *You sound like a young gun outa control that beats on his projects rather than finessing them into place.
> If I caught you doing that on one of my projects, you'd be outa there so quick....
> 
> ...but hey...that may be how you roll.....*


I've fired more "old guys" for nursing their assignments than I can remember.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

And people wonder what has happened to the respect the trades used to have?


----------



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Ironlight said:


> I think he is saying that the entire cabinet needs to slide directly back 3" from that corner. So the channel would need to be 3 and 3/16" deep.


Ironlight,

I wonder how many people recognize your avatar as Brigadier General Jack Ripper (Sterling Hayden) from Dr. Strangelove (How I learned to stop worring and love the bomb)?









http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1KvgtEnABY

I love this movie.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

titanoman said:


> I've fired more "old guys" for nursing their assignments than I can remember.


How long do you think it would take you to put that vanity in and have it completely finished including new drywall and paint?

Using my experience and professional method, it would take me less than 20 minutes with a power planer and some "nursing" 

Done...
no repairing
no repainting
no bashin' the crap out of a typically fragile cabinet

...go away boy...you're makin' a mockery of your trade and gettin' in the way......


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I do believe Willie and Tom would have had that trimmed and installed before the helper finished taking the empty box to the curb----and not even mentioned the 'problem' to any one.

This silly bit of adjustment is just part of a cabinet install and is quick and automatic--one more day at work---


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> How long do you think it would take you to put that vanity in and have it completely finished including new drywall and paint?
> 
> Using my experience and professional method, it would take me less than 20 minutes with a power planer and some "nursing"
> 
> ...


you're silly, old man.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

titanoman said:


> you're silly, old man.


really?
answer my question, then.
How long for your method????


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> really?
> answer my question, then.
> How long for your method????


Why are you picking on me? The very first thing I said to do was to score the face with a knife and cut it with a skilsaw. Done. 10 minutes. But this scares the op. Obviously, he can't install this thing no matter what anybody tells him.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

titanoman said:


> you're silly, old man.



That 'silly old man' has the trust and respect of his customers and piers--

Because he knows how to make something like this --into nothing--without a thought.

Respect is earned--how much are you earning,I wonder.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I think I've memtioned this before......... About five or six months ago a new kid we hired (about 30) was brought out to a house I was trimming, and was looking at the crown. "Pretty good" he said. "But, you sand your crown?" (It was going to be painted.)

I just shook my head slowly and answered, "Well, I had some spare time, and I was bored."

You sometimes wonder if craftsmanship is lost forever.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> That 'silly old man' has the trust and respect of his customers and piers--
> 
> Because he knows how to make something like this --into nothing--without a thought.
> 
> Respect is earned--how much are you earning,I wonder.


I am very well respected in my community. I can't prove it no matter what I say. I'm not here to argue.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

titanoman said:


> Why are you picking on me? The very first thing I said to do was to score the face with a knife and cut it with a skilsaw. Done. 10 minutes. But this scares the op. Obviously, he can't install this thing no matter what anybody tells him.


I'll tell you where you scare me. "Heck, take a hammer and a block of wood and beat the wall over a quarter inch." ???????


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

lukey19 said:


> My new bathroom vanity is 48" wide and the gap between my walls are 47 3/4". There is enough space to trim the cabinet on both sides but I am not sure of the best tool for the job. Please give me some experience with a new tool or a good idea of what to do.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jay


I want to go back to the OP and say I'm sorry I got off track with Skull & Crossbones Construction....

When I look at the pics you provided, that is exactly what I'm looking for in a cabinet installation.
I want the vanity to be just a little wider than the opening...trim to fit

Skull & Xbones Construction Co. would fire the framer for making the opening too small, and expect the drywaller to repair all the damage done to the wall for free.
He likes to have the opening extra wide, slap the vanity in, and caulk the gap....Done....

.......where's the kitchen????


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Willie T said:


> I'll tell you where you scare me. "Heck, take a hammer and a block of wood and beat the wall over a quarter inch." ???????


Okay. A little over the top. Just frustrated because everybody is telling this guy to use a dander, router, when the correct answer is a skilsaw. It makes me think nobody here has ever installed a $50 vanity before.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

titanoman said:


> Okay. A little over the top. Just frustrated because everybody is telling this guy to use a dander, router, when the correct answer is a skilsaw. It makes me think nobody here has ever installed a $50 vanity before.


That's a little more refined...thank you.....


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

titanoman said:


> Okay. A little over the top. Just frustrated because everybody is telling this guy to use a dander, router, when the correct answer is a skilsaw. It makes me think nobody here has ever installed a $50 vanity before.


Understood...... But it was hard to tell for sure if that was a joke.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> That's a little more refined...thank you.....


I'm sure you are respected. I haven't been here long enough to really earn any. But, as an experienced carpenter, you should recognize that all my posts in these forums are good, found, professional advice.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

titanoman said:


> I'm sure you are respected. I haven't been here long enough to really earn any. But, as an experienced carpenter, you should recognize that all my posts in these forums are good, found, professional advice.


...until you start giving advice to DIY'ers to start bashing walls :laughing:


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Why didn't I think of a Skill saw first----Every furniture and cabinet maker has that as the 'go to' tool for furniture adjustment.

Makes me the 'silly old man' this time----


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

And I will admit that one or two of the real estate flippers I work for now do experience some noticable frustration when I "massage" a job to a perfect fit. BUT, when they need it right, my phone rings off the hook, not the phones of the other three guys they also use.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

tcleve4911 said:


> ...until you start giving advice to DIY'ers to start bashing walls :laughing:


Actually, I assumed the op already had it installed before I started my rant. I wont give advice like that anymore. My apologies.


----------



## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

titanoman said:


> Actually, I assumed the op already had it installed before I started my rant. I wont give advice like that anymore. My apologies.


respectfully accepted........


Silly ol' Man :yes:


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I think I just saw you grow an inch or two taller, Titan. :thumbsup:


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Willie T said:


> I think I just saw you grow an inch or two taller, Titan. :thumbsup:


I'll take that as a compliment. Thank-you.


----------



## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

titanoman said:


> I'll take that as a compliment. Thank-you.


It was certainly intended as one. Not a lot of men handle themselves as well as you have here.


----------



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

I haven't heard from the gentleman with the vanity for quite awhile. I wonder if the vanity ever got installed. Maybe he'll be back when he realizes the vanity top is too tight also!


----------

