# Remove Chain Link Fence Post?



## cbzdel (May 11, 2010)

What is the best way to go about removing a chain link fence post with minimal damage to the ground. My plan is to replace my damaged/bent chain link fence with a nicer looking wood fence, and I was hoping to drop the wood posts directly into the holes which the chain link fence posts came from.

I do not plan on using concrete for my new wood posts, I will be using gravel if it makes a difference, then I actually plan on running forms from posts to post and pouring about a 3.5" wide by maybe 6" deep concrete section with one continuous #4 bar, and this will help prevent my dogs from digging at the fence line trying to get under it


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## Centex2011 (Dec 14, 2011)

Even though I personally have not removed fence posts, I did watch the guys who removed and replaced our falling down chain link fence. They poured water (about a bucket full) at each post, let the water soak into the ground for a few and started moving the post and concrete back and forth until loose enough they could come out (I think they used a shovel to aid in moving it, but didn't dig a lot out). Some of the posts/concrete they just pulled out by hand, others they had a small A-frame with a come-along attached and pulled them out that way. Hope this is a helpful suggestion. Good luck.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If you Google fence post puller hundreds of sites will come up with different designs.
I know Northern and Farm Supply stock them.
Poor Idea to not use any concrete unless this fence is only going to be about 3 ft. high. First strong wind and it will blow over.
Those post holes will need to be a minimum of 2' deep.


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## cbzdel (May 11, 2010)

Thanks for the input.. I plan on doing 30" deep post holes then add a couple of inches of gravel to the bottom. And the fence will only be able 36 to 40" tall or so, and its not a privacy fence just a fence to border the property and keep our tiny dogs in the yard, so there will be decent size gaps between the slats... Think that wold work alright??

Edit: The end posts and gate post would be embeded in concrete, it would be the center supports which I wanted to use gravel on...


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Do not expect those posts to last long, unless you treat the ends that are in the ground. As for the Gravel, it is not going to do anything to hold the corners in place. You need to use concrete on the corner posts, otherwise a good wind, or someone running and jumping against that fence, it will be down in no time.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

As far as pulling the old posts, dig around one or two of them, and see what you have. Previously, I had only seen chain link fence posts set in concrete, either mixed then dumped in the hole, or dumped in dry with water sloshed in on top; the latter not being the way that I would do it, but sometimes making it easier to bust up. In the past few years though, I have seen several fences removed, in which the posts were not set in concrete, but held in by a pair of angles in an X, bolted to the posts. In one case, the posts seeme solidly anchored, but the guys would dig around the posts, cut the bolt with a reciprocating saw, and then pulled the posts with relative ease. Anyway, as mentioned, a lot of options on post pullers, so once you know what you are dealing with, you can decide what you need to get them out.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

borrow an engine hoist, it will pull them out like they are not even set.


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

If the chain link posts are in good condition and well set (sounds like they are), why not mount the wood fence to the existing posts? A LOT less work and would be a better longer lasting fence than using wood posts in gravel...


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Fix'n it said:


> borrow an engine hoist, it will pull them out like they are not even set.


That's where I would go with it.


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## cbzdel (May 11, 2010)

Good call on the engine hoist, I do not have one but I can rent one for $30 to $40 per day and I should easily be able to do all 12 posts... 

I will just make sure to get the damage policy in case I bend the thing haha... 

I should be able to take a bench vice and clamp it to a low portion of the pipe and then wrap the chain below the vice and pull away....


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## cbzdel (May 11, 2010)

vsheetz said:


> If the chain link posts are in good condition and well set (sounds like they are), why not mount the wood fence to the existing posts? A LOT less work and would be a better longer lasting fence than using wood posts in gravel...


The spacings are almost 10' on center so I want to tigthen it up, plus some on them are bent pretty bad. A car ran into this fence and a trree fell on it before be bought the house and the owner just tried to bandaid it and bend it straight. Plus the posts are about 12" away from adjoining fences and house, we need to make it as close as possible to keep the dogs in the yard.

We are just looking at making a simple picket fence, nothing fancy at all.. And it plan on moving within the next 5 to 10 years as well so it doesnt have to last a lifetime :thumbup:

The labor doesnt both me, I enjoy that part of it, its one of my favorite personal hobbies, but I hate helping others haha :thumbsup:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

you can buy a used one for $50 on CL, i just saw one, for example.

all you need is a good chain. i planed on drilling a hole and putting a rod in. first i just tried a chain. wrap it a few times. once tension is on it, it will grab. least it did for me.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

do you have a floor jack ?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Forget the vise and learn the benefits of a clove hitch knot. It takes about 5 seconds for a fast learner to learn the two loop method and another couple of seconds for slower learners. You'll only need to make the knot once if you retain it after each post pull. Just simply drop the knot over the next post and pull. Then tell your helper NEXT.


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