# Superior Walls - Floating Corners & Drywall



## jerryh3

You should have solid backing in all the corners. If this isn't feasible, there are clips that attach to the ends of the sheets but you will still have to land a fastener into the first wall. That may be a little tough since the furring strips are only 3/4", but give it a try first. It would be the easiest solution.
http://www.prest-on.com/Scripts/prodList.asp?idcategory=2


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Is it possible to "Build out" the inside corners with PT Lumber to the point that you will have corners to fasten the sheetrock to?

Other than that, the clips would be your next options.


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## Woodcutter

The problem with trying to build out the corners is there is really nothing to anchor anything to. I am thinking that I might try to screw a 2x4 to the edge of the first sheet drywall, attach the clips to it and secure the second sheet to the clips. Or maybe even just screw two 2x4's together to form a 90 corner the attach the ends of the drywall to that with liquid nails and screws. That might be a good solution. 

Regarding the clips, where do I buy them? I did not see them at Lowes or HD. Can they only be purchesed over the internet, at the site jerryh3 pasted in his reply?


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Woodcutter said:


> ....Regarding the clips, where do I buy them? I did not see them at Lowes or HD. Can they only be purchesed over the internet, at the site jerryh3 pasted in his reply?


You will have a hard time finding them. None of the big Home Improvement Stores carry them. Even the Drywall Supply warehouses we deal with, do not carry them.

Your best bet is to shop around online, and find a good place to order them from.

Good Luck.


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## jerryh3

Woodcutter said:


> The problem with trying to build out the corners is there is really nothing to anchor anything to. I am thinking that I might try to screw a 2x4 to the edge of the first sheet drywall, attach the clips to it and secure the second sheet to the clips. Or maybe even just screw two 2x4's together to form a 90 corner the attach the ends of the drywall to that with liquid nails and screws. That might be a good solution.
> 
> Regarding the clips, where do I buy them? I did not see them at Lowes or HD. Can they only be purchesed over the internet, at the site jerryh3 pasted in his reply?


They may be a little hard to find. Call a few building supply houses. If no luck, order them if you have to. A lot of online places have them. Also, check out: http://www.thenailer.com/index.html. I've never used these, but they may also be a solution to your problem.


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## nacko

I'd call the people at superior and tell them that you have a house with one of their inferior walls systems, and what would they recommend that you do.


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## jerryh3

nacko said:


> I'd call the people at superior and tell them that you have a house with one of their inferior walls systems, and what would they recommend that you do.


What makes them inferior?


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## bkeech

*I think they are a great Idea*

These walls are great in the fact that I do not have to spend any money on framing out exterior walls. Also the space is retained.

Woodcutter, have you finished your basement. I am working on mine now:
http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=21899


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## Woodcutter

bkeech: I'm moving at a snails pace - this is a true DIY project. So far, things have progressed well. The interior framing, wiring, insulation and HVAC are completed and inspected. I am ready to start the drywall now, but, with summer here, I have shifted my focus to yardwork and landscaping. Once that is done, I'll get back to drywalling the basement in ernest. I want to have it all completed before the winter holidays. I'll let you know how the drywall goes, especially those corners I have been concerned about. In the mean time, please let me know how it goes for you. I'll try to look in on your post from time to time too.

Thanks, Woodcutter :thumbsup:


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## bkeech

Woodcutter: My superiorwalls have cut outs in the corner for a 2x4 and a 2x2. I was going to use those to block out the corners. Is that what you did? What did you do where a interior wall fell between the superiorwall studs?


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## Woodcutter

I have not started the drywall, been busy finishing summer landscape projects, etc. I am about to get back to the basement now. I'll have to look at these corners again. I do recall seeing some sort of notching in the corners, but did not try to fit anything in them. Thanks for the heads up.

As far as interior walls butting up between the studs of the Superior wall, I cut two small pieces of 3/4 plywood, approximately 3.5" x 3.5", just big enough to cover the end of two - 2x4's. Then I cut and attached a piece of 2x4 between them so that the total length fit snugly between the two superior studs. The 2x4 is positioned towards the back of the cavity. I attached the front edges of the 3/4" plywood to sides of the facing on the studs, so that the leading edge of the plywood anchor is flush with the front of the stud. I put one at the header, one at the floor and one midway. Once that is secured, I then attached a verticle 2x6 onto the face of the 2x4, which should be flush with the face of the existing studs. Install the 2x6 so that you can center the wall you are butting up to it, with enough space on either side to anchor the drywall that will cover the superior wall. Like I said, I have not hung any drywall yet, but I did install these brackets and the walls and they are solid, with plenty of room to attach the drywall in the corners.

Let me know how it goes and I'll do the same.

Woodcutter


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## bkeech

*Thanks*

Thanks for the description. I think I am seeing it in my mind. When you have a chance if you could show me a picture that would be cool. 

Thanks,
Bryan


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## Jwilcox

i just wanted to post a different response than what was already added. I had a guy tell me for inside corners on superior walls to use metal studs. what you do is determine the length of what you would need to fold it in half to create a 90* bend. do this by cutting a "V" out in the middle Then on the end you cut the inside area on the top and bottom to the face of the metal stud to create a Longer FLAT tab. Fasten the tabs to the superior studs and you can also stand a 2x4 vertically behind the inside corners to give vertical support and fasten the metal stud corners to the 2x's.

hope this isnt clear as mud for you all.


Jeremy


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## extinknocker

*extinknocker*

The solution to this problem is much simpler than you might expect. The trick is to install a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" formed angle (used in metal framing) to the back edge of the panel that has been installed @ the corner. Your next panel will fasten to the projection. When done, you will have a corner that is as strong as a Brick S/house


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## Willie T

It's even easier than that.

In reality you DO NOT want solidly fastened corners...... either at wall corners or at ceiling to wall junctions with trusses. This is what causes the cracking at those joints that you often see.

You DO, however want some backing so one wall board won't bend when the other one is pushed against it in installation. So this is done by simply screwing the appropriate thickness of wood directly to the back of the drywall sheet. Do NOT try to also fasten it to the wall behind it. It's only there to support the board when it is pushed by the installation of the abutting board.... or something or someone leaning against it. Yes, you can go ahead and build all the solid corners you want, and they will serve as good backers.... but please don't fasten to them on both sides. By code, you should be fastening within something like 8 inches or so of the corner. But no closer on one side or the corner cannot flex as it needs to.

About 7" or 8" of 'floating", on one unfastened board at all corners is good. WAY, way better than a row of fasteners down each side that locks that board to that wall. You see, walls flex and move independently of the other walls they meet to form corners. And one wall usually does not move the same distance (or sometimes even in the same direction) as the wall abutting it.

BTW, it is the "underlying" board that does not get fastened on walls, and the ceiling board on celings. Hard to explain, but you can read about it here on Pages 7 and 8: http://www.gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-2010.html

Giving the boards the freedom to give a little and adjust themselves to these seasonal wall movements helps stop corner cracking.


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## Willie T

I know my previous post sounds crazy. But it is the truth, despite how your conditioned mind thinks it should be.

There are many things in construction that look like they should go one way, but they really need to be installed just the opposite.

Here's an obvious example that can be found in most homes. Bi Fold doors.

On which panels do the handles go?

Most people would say the two panels in the center.... and that is where most installers place them. But this is wrong.

They go on the outside panels... the ones with the pivots at the top and bottom.

Ever notice what a pain most Bi Fold doors are to smoothly open and close? With the knob (handle) on the outside panels, they open and close just as smoothly as regular doors.


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