# Removing laminate backsplash--help!



## sleepyjen (Nov 14, 2011)

We're updating our kitchen from it's current 80s/50s decor, and plan to paint the walls and put up a pretty backsplash. I've begun to remove the laminate backsplash (ca 1980s) from the walls and it looks like whoever put it up glued it over the ancient glue of the first laminate backsplash (ca 1953). The walls underneath are plaster, and I can't get my stripper knife thing under the glue at all, it's so thick. I'm attaching a photo so you can see for yourself. The first section of laminate came down pretty well, as it was new to that part of the kitchen...then I got stuck.

What's the best way to proceed? Pry off the laminate, and then use a solvent to take the glue down, and then replaster the walls? Or can I put up some kind of layer of something on the whole mess? Drywall seems a bit thick, but if you have suggestions, I'll happily take them.

Thanks!
Jen


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## Big Stud (Jul 3, 2011)

I had the same problem in my own kitchen. There is no easy fix short of just covering it with a new laminate or other backsplash. You can take the cabinets down and replace the drywall, then it will be all new. That is the best fix IMHO. A lot of work though. If you can do plaster well, you might get away with that. But, I don't know how well the plaster will bond to the glued spots. Good luck to you however you approach it,


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

You can try a heat gun to soften the adhesive so you can lift it off. Do it slowly so you don't cause a fire. Used properly, damage to the wall will be minimal.
Have a fire extinguisher or 2 handy just in case.
There will be a learning curve to the process.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you have good ventilation you might try putting lacquer thinner in a spurt bottle and spurt it behind the HPL. Sometimes it will come off but sometimes it won't when the glue is old. Ron may have the best way with the heat gun. Just don't use lacquer thinner then use a heat gun afterwards the stuff is flammable.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Far faster and will come out far smoother to remove it all and just sheetrock that wall.
Most often a plaster walls thickness is about 1/2" so 1/2" or 3/8 will work.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Far faster and will come out far smoother to remove it all and just sheetrock that wall.
> Most often a plaster walls thickness is about 1/2" so 1/2" or 3/8 will work.


Don't EVEN think about that. That is the voice of inexperience talking right there.


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## JoJo-Arch (Sep 15, 2011)

I would suggest you remove all linings back to the original wall studs as best you can. Use a blunt chisel to chip off any set glue on the studs. Stuff some fibre glass between the wall studs for insulation and to stop any vermin lodging there.

Then cover the whole splash back area with 3/8'' thick cement fibreboard. If you can afford it, I would then fix thoughened glass finish or some kind of ceramic tile. 

These items would be easy to wipe clean and most importantly, seeing they're behind the stove, fire proof and won't discolour like a laminate would.

Another advantage is the the finished lining wall thickness would revert back to the original thickness.

Cheers! from Oz


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> I would suggest you remove all linings back to the original wall studs as best you can.


Oh I see...it's a gang-bang!
That suggestion is nuts. Think it through guys think it through.


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> Oh I see...it's a gang-bang!
> That suggestion is nuts. Think it through guys think it through.


+1 Removing the sheetrock is a terrible idea in this situation unless you are also going to completely remove the cabinets and start from scratch! :thumbsup:


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

An Ossilationg saw would cut it out even with the cabinets as fast as you could move your hand.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> An Ossilationg saw would cut it out even with the cabinets as fast as you could move your hand.


Okay are we going to argue about this now?

If you cut the drywall around the cabinets without removing them then what do you have to fasten the new wallboard to in the stud bays where the cabinets fall mid-bay. 

That idea is just plain goofy and would open a bigger can of worms than anyone could deal with in this situation. You guys aren't thinking this through. This is a DIY website. Remember?

I thought you guys claimed experience in these matters !!!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

This post is going wild---

No word from the OP---And the suggestions are getting a little far fetched----


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Elbow grease, a hammer, a thin putty knife, and lots of patience.
If the laminate is secure on the wall (which I guess is what this is about!) maybe you could feather out the edges with quick setting joint compound and laminate over that, or use 1/4" drywall or plywood right over the existing. 
Don't strip the wall down to the studs, because you'll have to remove the cabinets, and they were built in place and will come out in a million pieces never to be reassembled!

A heat gun or an iron will soften the glue, but you'll ruin the iron or burn the house down. JAT


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

agree with mike seems to be going way out ...why not wait to hear from op get there thougths and see if we can help...


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Looks like multi-tool time to me.


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## JoJo-Arch (Sep 15, 2011)

Hey guys, leaving the laminate behind, (which is most likely) over your 'sheetrock' also doesn't make sense. If he wants to put a modern glass splashback or ceramic tiles, the laminate underlay is rubbish. Looking at the photos, he has already removed 1/2 the outer laminate, and needs to remove the rest. 

The cupboards don't look that crash hot anyway, and particularily date the kitchen. So what's to keep? His post says he wants a modern look, well I can assure you, he ain't gonna achieve it if he leaves those cupboards in place.

He also says drywall over the lot is too thick. He doesn't want laminate by the sound of it, and I wouldn't recommend such crap, not in a modern kitchen. It's all about how much he wants to spend and what design outcome he wants. There is no easy way with splashbacks, you either do the job properly or not at all.


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