# Framing a drywall drop ceiling w/ 2x4's...



## tjbingha (Nov 28, 2012)

I think you are pushing the upper ends of what the 2 x 4's can do. I just did something similar and went with 2 x 6's, which I am very glad I did b/c I also ran 5.5" cans in for recessed lighting. I would go with 2 x 6's, will make a big difference but some of the span experts will pop in shortly to give their expert suggestion.

I just tore out 20 tons of plaster from my house so I know what you are up against. That stuff is painful to work with...Good luck:thumbup:


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Get rid of the plaster and use 1/2" light weight drywall.
Why wait for the rest of the plaster to fall down?


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## fetzer85 (Dec 4, 2009)

Thanks Thomas.

Good point Joe. I just noticed tonight that it looks like a 4x8 sheet of drywall was already installed in one of the corners of the room. It is solid unlike the rest of the remaining plaster, so the lightweight 1/2" might be a good option. Now here's another Q...I already have enough sheets of regular weight 1/2" at our house that I could use. We don't have vehicles that allow us to transport drywall - we had 30 sheets delivered via Lowes about a yr ago. So my question is, would you say going through the trouble and high added cost of getting 5 or 6 sheets delivered be worth the weight savings? Since just finding out about lightweight drywall, I've read that it's somewhere in the range of 15-30% lighter than standard. I'm kind of leaning towards just using the 1/2" that we already have. Thoughts?


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## tjbingha (Nov 28, 2012)

I would encourage you to remove the plaster as well if possible, but be prepared for a huge mess and a very difficult task to contain that mess. Like I said I removed tons of plaster and I am very glad it is just out of the house at this point. Then again I am not living in the house. Make sure that you have a decent mask for the task and be prepared for whatever is above. My whole ceiling had blown in insulation, which luckily did not contain any asbestos but was very itchy. When you were up in the attic what size were your joists if you could see them? Typically in old houses like your they would have used a true 2 x 6's that are 24 inch OC (approx.), which is adequate to handle your original drywall. Also, not sure how far you are from a home depot but they rent trucks for $19.99 for 75 minutes, which is not too much of an added cost if you wanted to go with the lightweight to prevent any type of sag. Depending on original ceiling joist size I don't see why you would not be able to use what you have though. I also take it you are not planning on adding any living space or storage space in the attic? If so now is the time to add a few extra joists in there. Whatever you do take some pics and post in the project section. Again, good luck. If you decide to take out the plaster plan for more time than you expect and have a plan to haul away the trash. Research online the best ways to remove plaster, and I would recommend cleaning as you go. Just for the small room above you are looking at thousands of pounds of plaster, not exaggerating. It is important to not get overwhelmed with the trash in space that you are living in. Just be prepared for that and you will be fine! Good luck and keep us updated.


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## fetzer85 (Dec 4, 2009)

I'm not sure what size the joists are in the attic. We have insulation up past the joists, so when I was up there walking around I had a sheet of plywood cut in half long ways and I used them to lay across the beams to walk. I think your logic makes sense though, I would imagine even normal drywall is significantly lighter than plaster so if I can get the plaster down and the drywall up in its place it should be a lighter load for the joists. We definitely don't plan on using the attic space for storage or anything else. If I have my way I won't be up there again. Looks like the next order of business is covering up my daughter's bed and attempting to carefully remove the plaster. I have the cheap white dome masks, you think that's good enough for such a small project?


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## tjbingha (Nov 28, 2012)

My fear is that you may be underestimating how dirty demoing plaster is. It is not like drywall. I would remove anything from the room that you can to give yourself working space and to keep stuff clean. Take whatever you can out (everything) and then cover the floor with some thick plastic or canvas. At least remove any permeable items such as sheets, mattresses, box springs, etc. I had some "hanging" chunks for 50 pounds or so of plaster come down and those can do some considerable damage to furniture so take a little time on the front end to make it easier on yourself and reduce any damage to your stuff. I found it much easier (albeit a little slower) to knock off the plaster first and shovel into 5 gallon buckets to then dump into heavy bags (I had a dumpster). I used a hammer and turned it sideways and just pounded on the plaster to break the key. If you just knock it all down at once it is very difficult to separate the plaster and lath, especially if you are putting onto trash bags. You will also have to replace the blown in (if it is blown in) which stinks, but what can you do. Like I mentioned earlier now is a great time to add a ceiling fan or recessed lighting, so be sure to think about that as well. Plan it all out, get some help with the shoveling and removal of plaster and keep clean. Wear long sleeves, gloves, masks, and goggles!


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## fetzer85 (Dec 4, 2009)

I suppose you're right. I am probably underestimating the PITA factor. I think the part of the ceiling that has already been repaired w/ drywall had the lathe boards still in place. If I can, I'm just going to remove the plaster and leave the lathe in place, which would keep the insulation above in place. I have fairly short drywall screws now so I think if I got some slightly longer ones to account for getting through the lathe then that plan would work.


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