# Kenmore Washer stops working at drain point in cycle



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.repairclinic.com/RepairH...e-Washing-Machine-11082982100-Troubleshooting


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

drop the control panel, you will see a three wire connector . Unplug it and ohm the 2 outer wires, with the lid closed you should have continuity


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

Oh, hardware you _jumped_ a step.
Turn off breaker, unplug washer then do hardeware's test. All ohm tests are done with power off and all wires disconnected from part being tested.

Eagle, you sure you got that model number right?

Does machine agitate with door open? A few washers will not. If yours agitate closed but not open it is not door switch.

If you turn selector knob into rinse cycle, door closed, does washer try to spin? If it does it is not switch. A few washers will not spin if water level is too high, so try this with tub empty.

Is your drain hose hard connected to drain pipe or just hooked over stand pipe? If connected main line may be clogged.

"The rest of the water also came out of the machine..." The water ran out thru the pump? " I did not hear any kind of pump or motor noise" The pump has to lift the water up to the stand pipe, but water will drain down and out thru a pump that is not working. Water can drain thru a pump that has something blocking impeller so look thru both hose connectors. If your pump looks like the one in joe's link, disconnect the two wires ( breaker off washer unplugged, we don't want you_ jumping_ all around, sparks flying out ears.) Ohm meter connected to tabs on pump should read 5 to 10 ohms.

Connect ohm meter to the two wires, turn selector to off, you should get infinty on meter. Turn selector to drain cycle and should get a very low resistance.

If you can determine which wires from selector go to pump and door switch. You can connect ohm meter to tabs on selector and selector to drain. Without wiring diagram, which I can't find for model number given, I cant tell you which tabs to check with which, and which wires need to be disconnected from selector to prevent false reading. There may be a wiring diagram pasted to inside of an access panel or rolled up inside control panel. 
Hardware is liable to jump all over me again if I tell you how to isolate lid switch from pump circuitry and pump from lid, even with power off, so if he thinks doing so would help in diagnoses I'll let him tell you.

I suspect the pump, from your description, then lid switch or circuitry to and between them. Pump is around $30, not to great amount to try swap out, but why spend it if you can use ohm meter. And many parts dealers will not take returns of electrucal parts.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

quit confusing the guy,his machine does not have an electric pump,or pump circuitry, it is a belt driven pump........... So check door switch first.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

sorry, it is not belt driven it is coupler driven. Same advice check lid switch FIRST


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

Ok, I have the washer casing off and have done a few checks already. I pulled off all the hoses and the impeller pump and nothing is clogged in them. Thanks for addressing the pump circuitry issue Hardwareman as I was indeed a little confused by Notmrjohn's suggestion to check the ohms on the pump. It is driven by the washer motor and, as you stated, there is no belt but a coupler. To address the other questions that Notmrjohn had, the model number was taken right from the nameplate on the washer, the machine WILL agitate with lid open, turning selector knob to rinse will not cause it to spin (and water was at the Low level) and finally, the drain hose is hooked over a stand pipe.

I checked the lid switch by removing the wires at the switch and putting the meter probes on the switch tabs there. There IS continuity....unfortunately for me as that would have been an easy fix I suppose. I also probed the lid switch wires at the connector and found continuity there as well.

Thanks for the help so far. What should I address next?


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

ok, manualy put timer into the spot where washer will spin, what happens? Is it dead or does it take off? I suspect you may have a dead spot in the timer.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

Ok, I plugged it back in, turned the selector dial to the diamond symbol, which, I believe is the spin cycle and pulled out on the button and got nothing. I also tried it on a different cycle and got the same and I also tried at the drain/rinse point which I believe is the asterisk but there is nothing happening.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

if your 100% sure about the lid switch being good then you have a bad timer


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

When I did the test you just recommend, I did NOT have the lid switch connected. Did I need to connect that to run a fair test?


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

Is there any other way to test the timer to be sure? The timer is pretty expensive new but I could pick up a used one if necessary.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

Eagle One said:


> When I did the test you just recommend, I did NOT have the lid switch connected. Did I need to connect that to run a fair test?


absolutely


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

Ok, with lid switch connected I tried the test again and got nothing on the spin cycle. That is assuming that the spin cycle is the diamond mark on the panel....

I tried a few times using other wash cycles too and got no spinning. I also tried it at the asterisk, which I think is the marking for the rinse cycle. Water started coming into the washer tub (I quickly shut it off). It wanted to start the rinse cycle now that the tub is empty.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

*Can I test the timer?*

So I purchased a used timer and found it to be defective after installing it. When I go to push in the knob to turn it to a cycle, the water starts immediately and it should not start until I pull the knob out. The whole 'in and out' action is much too loose and just defective. So now I have to return this one and get another. 

When I had MY timer out though, I was looking at it and when I compared its functioning to the other used one I just bought, it seemed to work a lot better. I didn't see any signs of broken pieces on the timer wheel, bad or burnt contacts, etc. 

So I am wondering if I can test this somehow with my multimeter? I want to be sure I need to replace this as this is going to cost me more time and money to be chasing the wrong part.


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

If you have a multi-meter and a wiring diagram, schematic of timer, or know which connectors are which on timer you can check it. Connect one lead of meter to power tab on timer, other to drain cycle tab.

As hardware let you know I am not familiar with this model, apparently timer/selector is marked with symbols instead of being plainly labeled? Can you manually move selector knob along its cycle in short increments? That is, can you start it on rinse then turn knob to end of rinse cycle?
Since you can drain tub by lowering hose, let it fill on low level rinse and see what happens. Or try it on rinse cycle with water off.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

I just want to follow up on the results of this problem. I decided not to get into testing my original timer as I am not confident enough in my skills to make an accurate diagnosis (but thanks for the follow up info notmrjohn). 

I went ahead and bought another used timer for $32. The other seller refunded my money on the other one that was already broken without me even having to return it so that saved me some hassle. I installed the next one I bought last weekend and the washer is back in action!! :thumbup: 

So, hardwareman was right on with the timer being the problem. Tons of thanks to all for your help!!


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

good job


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

Ta Da! Thanx for follow up. Often a bunch of folks offer advice, we never hear if any of it helped. Or if it even made problem worse. And when we never hear another word, hardware worries that somebody followed my advice and killed themself.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

:laughing: That is too funny! Yes, I think this forum works much better when people follow up to conclusion on the problems so that others who read can maybe benefit if they have a similar problem AND those who are giving advice know how accurate their advice was. Great job guys! :thumbsup:


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