# faced fiberglass batt installed backwards



## 88bomber (Jun 6, 2012)

In an unfinished basement (walkout basement), is it common (or okay) to install faced fiberglass insulation in the wood framed wall with the paper toward the outside?

I figure this was done to pass fire code, but will it create vapor issues?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Please go back and add your location to your profile, yes it makes a differance.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

88bomber said:


> In an unfinished basement (walkout basement), is it common (or okay) to install faced fiberglass insulation in the wood framed wall with the paper toward the outside?
> 
> I figure this was done to pass fire code, but will it create vapor issues?


The only place I know of were one can put the kraft face batt to the out side is Florida.


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## 88bomber (Jun 6, 2012)

I'm in east Tn.
~1200ft

My assumption is that the installer didn't have any unfaced in the truck, so he turned it backwards so he wouldn't have to cover it (with drywall) to meet code.

I do plan to finish the basement, but probably not for 1-3 years...will I be okay until then?


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

The problem you have is twofold. The paper facer acts as a vapor retarder and should be placed toward the "warm in Winter" side of the floor or wall assembly. The second problem is that the facer, being exposed, presents a combustion hazard and needs to be covered.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

88bomber said:


> I'm in east Tn.
> ~1200ft
> 
> My assumption is that the installer didn't have any unfaced in the truck, so he turned it backwards so he wouldn't have to cover it (with drywall) to meet code.
> ...


a simple solution to your problem is just gently pull the kraft face off.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

The problem is, that's what's holding the insulation in place.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Maintenance 6 said:


> The problem is, that's what's holding the insulation in place.


batts are held by friction and if the kraft is facing the cold side what are they stapled to? Nothing easy enough to just pull them out and turn them around or remove the kraft paper.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...-310-vapor-control-layer-recommendations/#Map

Gary


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## 88bomber (Jun 6, 2012)

I'm in zone 4a...so does that mean I NEVER have to use interior vapor barrier...regardless of class 1, 2 or 3?


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

No I live in zone 4 what is required to have a vapor retarder.


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## 88bomber (Jun 6, 2012)

nailbags, I'm guessing you are in zone 4c, which is required to have a class 1 or 2 vapor barrier. (according to the link provided by Gary above)

Also from that link...

"No interior vapor control required on the interior side of framed walls in climate zones 1, 2, 3, 4a, or 4b. In hot, humid climates, a Class I or II vapor control layer on the interior of the framing can, and often does, cause premature building enclosure failure due to inward moisture drive condensation (see RR-9302: Humidity Control in the Humid South). BSC recommends avoiding Class I or II vapor control layer on the interior in these zones, or any material that acts inadvertently like a Class I or II vapor control layer such as reflective foil insulations, vinyl wall coverings, glass mirrors and epoxy paints."

If that is indeed true, then why the heck do people tout the use of 2" XPS in rim joists (see other thread) which I believe is a class 2 vapor barrier?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The foam is on the outside of the warm cavity, next to the exterior- not at the drywall, but *after* the insulation.

Gary


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