# Ford Ranger 3.0 doesn't want to start when hot



## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

This one has me stumped. I have been chasing it for about a month now. Any suggestions on what I should check/test next?

2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 Vin Code: U
285k miles


Truck starts fine when cold. Runs great while being driven. Does not want to start after 
warmed up and being driven. Has a noticeable miss at idle. 

Example: Truck sits overnight, first startup is fine, once warmed up a slight miss at idle. Drive to destination and shut truck off, come back 20mins later, and it just wants to turn over, eventually starting after multiple attempts.


CEL codes:

P0175: Rich on bank 2
P0300: Random/multiple misfire detected
P0316: Misfire on startup at first 1000 revs
Most recently: P0304: Misfire cyl #4 (confirmed a dead spark plug. Still have same starting problem.)


Fuel pressure is good.
Has good spark at coil, wire, and plug
Compression is good on all cyls
Cannot find any vacuum leaks

Since problem started, have replaced due to the problem or routine maintenance:

Both upstream 02 sensors
PCV valve
MAF
Temperature coolant sensor
coil, plugs, wires
#4 fuel injector
crank sensor
cam sensor
fuel filter
air filter
Fuel pump relay
Intake manifold plenum gaskets


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Leaking injectors. Either injectors or seals. Seals are OEM ONLY, they are oddly shaped O rings. With like a lip. Don't try normal O-rings. I set Taurus engine on fire like that once.
Simple check. When it refusaes to start, pul plug out and see if it's wet with petrol. 

Also, if starts the flooded engine way - throttle full open and hold till starts - that's another sign. You are blowing petrol off plugs with air stream. 

See this?
P0175:* Rich *on bank 2


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

ukrkoz said:


> Leaking injectors. Either injectors or seals. Seals are OEM ONLY, they are oddly shaped O rings. With like a lip. Don't try normal O-rings. I set Taurus engine on fire like that once.
> Simple check. When it refusaes to start, pul plug out and see if it's wet with petrol.
> 
> Also, if starts the flooded engine way - throttle full open and hold till starts - that's another sign. You are blowing petrol off plugs with air stream.
> ...


Yes, Bank 2 is the drivers side of the engine (USA side) #4. #5, and #6 cyls. It is flooding the plugs. (haven't checked since replacing #4 injector yesterday) Thank you for the response.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Outside of what I mentioned, look into all possible causes for flooding with petrol. Fortunately, you have inline engine, makes life much easier to get to fuel rail and injectors. 

hey, maybe start with massive Seafoaming through fuel tank? They also have that new Seafoam made for injectors cleaning via air intake. Worth a try to get you by, while it's cold outside.


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

This engine was prone to carbon buildup problems and that may be responsible for some of the codes. Try the Seafoam, might work.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Clutchcargo said:


> This engine was prone to carbon buildup problems and that may be responsible for some of the codes. Try the Seafoam, might work.





ukrkoz said:


> Outside of what I mentioned, look into all possible causes for flooding with petrol. Fortunately, you have inline engine, makes life much easier to get to fuel rail and injectors.
> 
> hey, maybe start with massive Seafoaming through fuel tank? They also have that new Seafoam made for injectors cleaning via air intake. Worth a try to get you by, while it's cold outside.


Nope, not an inline. It's a V6. To get to 3 of the injectors, the upper intake manifold has to come off. It's easy to take off and I can have it off in 10mins. 

Seafoam is one thing I forgot to mention. Seafoam was the first thing I did when the problem started showing up. I sprayed a can down the throttle body as well as dumped a can in the gas tank. It barely made any smoke when spraying it down the throttle body, nothing like what you see in the Youtube videos. It made no improvement.

I've got the other 5 injectors on order, and have the truck parked until they arrive.

Also, I tried what you said about holding the gas pedal wide open while trying to start it, and while it did hesitate to start, it started up a lot faster than it has been.

What causes injectors to leak? Normal wear and mileage, or the 10% ethanol that they put in our gas?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Build up, ****ty gas. Valves get stuck and petrol leaks past them. If you can get them out, they are not that hard to DIY clean. 

I thought V6 is inline on Rangers? How do they get rear wheel drive then?


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## w0j0 (Dec 29, 2017)

ukrkoz said:


> ...
> 
> I thought V6 is inline on Rangers? How do they get rear wheel drive then?


You two are saying different things but meaning the same. The engine is indeed a V6 and it's mounted in the longitudinal configuration(inline with rear drive shaft), as opposed to the transverse configuration.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Fuel injectors live in a very harsh environment , at 285,000 miles I can't imagine how many injector pulses those have gone through ! Modern fuel with ethanol added is just one of MANY issues with today's fuel . Fuel is changing all the time at the request of the auto industry to help meet tighter emission standards . As the additive packages change the injectors and other components have to deal with it . Hopefully changing out your injectors gives you the results you want .


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

I found the problem to be more than just that one leaking injector, as ukrkoz has said. I could turn the key on to pressure up the fuel system, and then after the key was off, the pressure would slowly drop until it had no pressure. 

I've now replaced all 6 injectors and have caused another problem. When changing the injectors, the fuel rail crossover hose developed a pinhole leak which sprays gas out when I pressure up the fuel system. The hose doesn't have any clamps, and appears to just be pressed on into place. Can I get another length of fuel pressure rated hose and possibly some fuel injection clamps and replace it with that? Searching for the part number on the hose gives me the whole fuel rail assembly, which also comes up as discontinued.*































The arrow that is pointing at the white spot on the hose is where it is leaking. I can lightly run my finger nail over the hose and scrape away the surface of it.










Also, I know there's a bit of delay between my posts. I'm working on this in free time inbetween a work schedule. Tomorrow, I hope to have it back running.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Sorry to hear. 

I needed high pressure line once and went to a hydraulic supply store. They made me whatever I needed. They have fittings and crimping machine and various diameters of hoses. 

Also, it sounds like your pressure regulator is pooping.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

ukrkoz said:


> Sorry to hear.
> 
> I needed high pressure line once and went to a hydraulic supply store. They made me whatever I needed. They have fittings and crimping machine and various diameters of hoses.
> 
> Also, it sounds like your pressure regulator is pooping.



Nope. Not the regulator. It was injectors. It's all back together, running and driving correctly now, and I thank you for your help.

Here's how I fixed the busted hose issue.

The OEM hose was pushed on with no clamps. I went to a hydraulic supply shop and asked them if they had anything that would work. They suggested Parker Push-Lok hose, and that's what I used. Pushing the hose on just passed the first barb, I could not pull it back off by hand. I added the EFI clamps just for overkill/extra measure.

To remove the old hose, I used a soldering iron to melt through it, then peel it off.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

aH, YES, i KNOW THOSE. i HAVE THEM ON MY WATER HEATER PUMP CONNECTIONS. tHEY ARE INDEED SAID TO BE QUITE ADVANCED AND VERY RELIABLE connections.
Damn that caps button, always gets under my finger..
Well, glad I could help. And good you have your truck running. I had Ranger once, was very relaible truck. Very uncomfortable inside but very reliable.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

ukrkoz said:


> aH, YES, i KNOW THOSE. i HAVE THEM ON MY WATER HEATER PUMP CONNECTIONS. tHEY ARE INDEED SAID TO BE QUITE ADVANCED AND VERY RELIABLE connections.
> Damn that caps button, always gets under my finger..
> Well, glad I could help. And good you have your truck running. I had Ranger once, was very relaible truck. Very uncomfortable inside but very reliable.


I've got 2 Rangers. A 1996 2.3 Lima w/ 380k miles, and the 2004. Have had both since new. The 2004 has one of the bounciest, roughest riding suspensions, especially for a truck. After taking it on a few road trips, I changed all of the shocks out for some high dollar KYB's and it improved the ride quality greatly, but still far from comfortable.

The 1996 has I-Beam front suspension, also upgraded shocks, and rides like an old cadillac compared to the 2004. The seats in the 2004 are firm, but the 1996 has spent 23yrs shaping its seat to my bottom, so to me it's pretty comfortable compared to the '04.


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