# flashing and stucco



## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

The flashing under my stucco is rusted and has many holes. There is water leaking through a majority of them on all four sides of the house.
I would like to know how this may be addressed. 
The current flashing is stepped and under both the stucco and the first layer of shingles. If it were to be re flashed would the stucco have to be removed and then reapplied after the flashing? This makes sense but the is nothing behind the stucco except insulation and 2X4s.

How should this be repaired?
Info would be appreciated before a contractor/rofer takes me or a ride and doesn't do the right thing. 
Thanks


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

stucco needs to be removed. New flashing applied. ( I would use lead flashing in areas of high water) Then new stucco to patch.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

sharp said:


> The flashing under my stucco is rusted and has many holes. There is water leaking through a majority of them on all four sides of the house... the current flashing is stepped and under both the stucco and the first layer of shingles. If it were to be re flashed would the stucco have to be removed and then reapplied after the flashing? This makes sense but the is nothing behind the stucco except insulation and 2X4s.


Sharp,

1) Are we discussing flashing at multiple levels on the property, for example near the roof, and _also _at the bottom of the stucco above the ground (if the latter, water dripping from the weep screeds "on all four sides of the house" could be normal).

2) What type of "stucco" are we discussing? Rusting flashing suggests that older property with conventional hard coat stucco, however the last sentence could also be describing EIFS, especially as there is no mention of metal lath.

Two things that would be helpful:

1) Fill out the location portion of your profile so that we know where (in what climate) the property is located.

2) Take pictures of these areas, and post links here so we can _see_ the problem.


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

Thanks. Will post photos tomorrow. 
Located Long Island, NY


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

Can I remove the first level of shingles to pry the nails out. Then remove old flashing and slide new flashing under the stucco. The entire house is currently gutted. The is nothing behind the flashing. I can also access the flashing from inside the house. I am really trying to avoid having to redo the stucco.
Will post photos this evening.
Thanks.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

It's possible. But you will need to bust the corners anyway. You can't wrap them properly otherwise.
Lots of finesse involved.


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

Having a hard time with this. had a stucco pro come by. Says he can't do it because there is no plywood behind the existing stucco. If he does a 4 inch cut to replace the flashing he won't be able to reapply the new stucco to finish.
Any ideas??


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

Photos would be very helpful.


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

Photos are attached. They show the area from the outside, inside and why the stucco replacement may be difficult without anything behind to adhere to.

Thanks


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

The roofing is easy. Have you asked Carl Brown about how to handle the Stucco? He seems to be the authority. Just google him. Or 'your leaking house'.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

That method is new to me, I've not see that done here in Chicago - for one thing there is no designed drainage plane behind the stucco. Also, at the backside that appears to be a material closer to "concrete" than to standard stucco. I'll be interested to see if any Stucco contractors familiar with this method post suggestions.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

OK, talked to the stucco contractor I usually recommed here in Chicago. He says that the trade term for that style of wire reinforcement is "fence wire", and that based on a verbal description what we are looking at could be the back of a formed pour - the forms would have been placed between the studs and at the exterior, and then removed after the pour. If so, the base coat could be 1" thick, or even thicker.

He will have a chance to look at he pictures this evening, I'll let you know what he says.


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

Any stucco thoughts?

No way to slide 6" flashing from the inside? I can't see why it cant be done.
I have access from there. I am thinking of sliding the new flashing under the old and putting under the roof shingles.


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

Any ideas on this fix? Having trouble finding a repair that doesn't include ripping all stucco off 2nd floor, putting up exterior sheathing and then restuccoing. There must be an easier way-
Thanks


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## [email protected] (Nov 17, 2008)

a. Cut the nails from the inside with a sawzall and pull the flashing from the exterior. Not easy.

b. Cut the stucco off the roof a few inches, re flash, install wood trim in place of stucco.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

[email protected] said:


> a. Cut the nails from the inside with a sawzall and pull the flashing from the exterior. Not easy.
> 
> b. Cut the stucco off the roof a few inches, re flash, install wood trim in place of stucco.


If you're gonna do this, flash above the board also. It would be best to use something cedar or some type of PVC board, so you don't have to paint it every year.


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## Decoramould (Nov 16, 2009)

Obviously, your best option is to rip off whatever is currently there. It was very poorly designed/specified, and poorly installed as well. You can clearly see water on the inside, and since this is a "rainscreen" system, it's obviously failing.

For starters, I don't see what flashing at the bottom is going to do. Any water that gets behind has no weather barrier to run down and get diverted. Adding a flashing isn't going to fool anyone - and if the next home owner gets a half decent inspector there's no way they'll miss the mess that is that "cladding".

I also wouldn't fill in between the studs again (with plywood or insulation), as that will ruin any ventilation/air exchange you are currently getting. Air exchange is what is needed to prevent mold and rot.

I don't know what to say - besides that flashing is the least of your problems.


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## Decoramould (Nov 16, 2009)

MJW said:


> If you're gonna do this, flash above the board also. It would be best to use something cedar or some type of PVC board, so you don't have to paint it every year.


There are actually exterior trim products on the market that aren't PVC (which tends to expand/contract and peel due to temperature fluctuations) - and work immaculately with stucco.
And you want to avoid using wood as trim on the exterior of your home - it will eventually rot.


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

It may have been poorly installed, but it lasted over 80 years. I am the new owner so I am not concerned about future owner as much as I am concerned about future issues. 
BTW my inspector missed it 2 months ago.\

What exterior trim products are there?

I recently has a stucco pro in, an idea that was offered was to bring flashing up the existing stucco and lay a new coat over the new flashing. 
Any thoughts on this?


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

also, when stripping down the walls the soffits were filled with blown in insulation, is this right? i understand about the ventilation, but I will have to insulate as it gets cold here. Will just insulate the walls, and remove the insulation in the soffits. Would this work better?


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## Decoramould (Nov 16, 2009)

sharp said:


> also, when stripping down the walls the soffits were filled with blown in insulation, is this right? i understand about the ventilation, but I will have to insulate as it gets cold here. Will just insulate the walls, and remove the insulation in the soffits. Would this work better?


IIRC you want the soffits to remain clear to vent the roof/attic. What you want to do is put insulation between the beams that compose the ceiling of your top floor, not the rafters of the roof.

BASF has a blown-in insulation that can go between the roof rafters and will act as a moisture barrier, in which case you don't need to vent the attic. You will need to check local building codes though as some municipalities still don't allow it.
Here: http://www2.basf.us/urethanechemicals/walltite/index.htm
Edit: Better link: http://www.basf-pfe.com/index.php?location=RAP&section=ceilings


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## Dave The Roofer (Nov 26, 2009)

*Does the Stucco Hold Water*



sharp said:


> The flashing under my stucco is rusted and has many holes. There is water leaking through a majority of them on all four sides of the house.
> I would like to know how this may be addressed.
> The current flashing is stepped and under both the stucco and the first layer of shingles. If it were to be re flashed would the stucco have to be removed and then reapplied after the flashing? This makes sense but the is nothing behind the stucco except insulation and 2X4s.
> 
> ...


 
Does the Stucco Hold water?

We do not use much stucco in Maine


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## sharp (Jul 17, 2009)

In heavy rain water does penetrate the stucco. The inside gets very damp.


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