# Correcting an out of square foundation?



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Bad block laying. Not earth shattering as it happens. Just make sure your sill plate is square and installed solidly. That way your building is square.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

Like Chandlar says, not earth shattering. If you are using trusses, it's nice to have parallel walls, though those can be fudged too. If you are using architectural shingles on the roof, than you can get away with murder up there; steel roof, not so much. I have framed on a foundation that was 2" narrower on one end. No fun, and a lot of work, but we got there in the end and the end product turned out great.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Thanks guys. I've got 12/12 trusses with a 12" overhang and 1/2" OSB roof sheathing and architectural shingles. My walls are 7/16" OSB and then double-lap vinyl siding. 

My last course of block is only 4" wide, with 2x4 framing, can you give me any advice for squaring up the sills with a diamond shaped foundation? 
If I cheated in the "long" corners by 3/4" and cheated out the short corners by 3/4", I imagine it would be square. With the OSB panels I'd be almost out to flush, then I'd have vinyl siding on top of that. Is that enough to overcome any worries about water running onto the block and into the garage? 

My other concern there is that that the J-bolts will be very close to the sides of my 2x4s as I get near the corner. Those last J-bolts will be about 1" from the edge of the wood. Not sure if that is enough?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Center the 2X4 on the block, and adjust until you get it square, then bolt it down.

Use wider plates on the bolts that will cover more wood than just washers.

You can make slotted holes in the wood to allow it to slide a bit to get square, before tightening any bolt.

And use a rubber membrane under the wood on top of the block to keep water out.



ED


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You have two wall that trusses land on, What are the measure out side to outside are they One each end. 
Are they front and back or side to side?


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

So you have 12" overhangs on the gables too? Are you going to just run the sheathing wild, cut it and add a fly rafter? I actually think when all said and done, the out of squareness isn't going to be noticeable. Have you tried laying a framing square in the corner to get a visual of how out of whack it really is? Might mess with you setting trusses, especially if you are going to be building lookouts. but in terms of how it looks, and whether you can notice it in the soffit corners or whatever, it might surprise you. I guess what I'm saying is that if you can fix it with your plates, great, but don't mess up your foundation to correct something that won't actually be noticeable in the end product.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Thanks for the tips de-nagorg, that mostly makes sense to me.
@Nealtw My two eaves are the sides, the garage door is gable end. The two eaves are 22' and 21' 11.75". The two gables are 22' and 21' 11-7/8" The lengths are not the issue, just that the building is diamond shaped and I'm worried that it will make framing/sheathing/roofing difficult.
@Marson I have 12" overhangs on all sides. I'm going to get drop-end trusses for the gables and just run lookouts to support the fly rafter. I'm not so much worried about the out-of-squareness being visible, more that it will make it hard to put the trusses and roof on. 

I'm not experienced with framing. I felt like I understood what to do if things were reasonably square, but I didn't really know how to fix it if the foundation wasn't.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Entropy said:


> Thanks for the tips de-nagorg, that mostly makes sense to me.
> @*Nealtw* My two eaves are the sides, the garage door is gable end. The two eaves are 22' and 21' 11.75". The two gables are 22' and 21' 11-7/8" The lengths are not the issue, just that the building is diamond shaped and I'm worried that it will make framing/sheathing/roofing difficult.
> @*Marson* I have 12" overhangs on all sides. I'm going to get drop-end trusses for the gables and just run lookouts to support the fly rafter. I'm not so much worried about the out-of-squareness being visible, more that it will make it hard to put the trusses and roof on.
> 
> I'm not experienced with framing. I felt like I understood what to do if things were reasonably square, but I didn't really know how to fix it if the foundation wasn't.


So now you want to know if the front or he back or both ore the bad ones. 
one the twenty foot side from the back corner measure out 15 feet on the back ball and market there. 
If the back wall is square to that side that mark will be 25 Ft from the front corner.
That is the 3,4,5 method of checking square.
Have the checked each side with a string to see that the walls are straight?


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

On top of foundation, framing starts with wall sill plates. You can square the building with the sill plates. You need a chalkline. Red is easier to see. Start with entrance wall. Check it's straight. It's ok if it is not dead straight. 1/4" bow in or out isn't a problem, although disappointing work on the masonry. 
Now about your plan. Wall sheathing is usually 1/2". Were you planning to have the sheathing sit on the foundation or overlap it? If sheathing sits on the foundation, sill would be 1/2" inside of the foundation, etc.
Strike your line for the sill. You get your side sill lines from this. If you don't know, search for getting square line based on 3-4-5 method. This can be also 6-8-10. Start with the line 1/2" in from the first line and adjust your side line with a square. Then check this line with 3-4-5 and adjust for square. Then check your foundation and see if how out of square your side walls are. 
Your sill can be overhanging the foundation by 1" but I'd call that about the max. You can use 2x6 sills to cover the sins if plan was 2x4 wall, eg. You can add trim to the outside wall base to cover some of the differences. If foundation is exposed, flash and add trim.
Not that familiar with truss but first ask or search if bearing area for the truss is important. Truss is engineered so I assume it has bearing points and you can't change that too much. I don't think your diagnal number is going to give you too much trouble.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Nealtw,
None of the corners are square. I haven't checked all the walls with a string line yet. The one I checked was bowed out 0.25-0.5" in the middle. I made a sketch of the foundation. If I made the left and right walls 2" longer (as shown by the grey line), then I could make a square sill that fully covers the foundation, but the sill plate would overhang the foundation by 2" in the top-left and 2.25" in the bottom-right corners.
I tried putting this in as an image, but it just didn't show up.
Foundation Sketch

carpdad,
I was going to have my sheathing slightly overlap the foundation. My foundation is block that sticks up above my slab though. I'm not sure what I'd snap a line on. The sill plates will sit on the concrete blocks, but if I square it up and snap a line on top of the concrete block, I'd end up with half the line being in the air and not on top of the block?

Could I just frame this up out of square and then shift the trusses a little so that they are square but my soffits become narrower as you move along a wall?


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Start back at the basics and lay out what we call a stringed batter board layout to get your plates down on out of square block walls. The batter "strings" give you the exact outer dimensions of the building you need, provides straight lines to take your plate measurements from = straight and square walls, the same dimensions from front to back, for trusses to sit on.

My method will only be as good as your patience and accuracy laying it out and getting the plates to barely touch the strings on the outside of them. See if my sketch makes any sense. JMO


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Greg: That would be the beginning of what I suggested earlier, Great way to start.

Glad that we have similar thought processes.

If OP has patience enough this will work great.

This also gives them measurements to know where to provide the bolt holes on their bottom plate, to make the slotted holes to slip over the existing J bolts they mentioned.

They might have to use a 2X6 as the bottom plates, then frame it with 2X4 studs, but it will work great.



ED


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Batter boards are sure way to mark the lines you want with strings. Always better if you can see the lines.
For initial check, you can stretch the caulkline across the foundations. Example, you want your sill edge to be flush with foundation edge. So stretch your line inside of the sill. You have to keep the sill width in mind.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Entropy said:


> Nealtw,
> QUOTE]
> How much more will it cost to change to 2x6 studs. Then you could plan on the walls being proud of the foundation both inside and outside.
> You can pull straight square strings like the foundation guy could have done.
> ...


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

Here is how I would proceed:

Pick out your two straightest, most parallel walls. On one of these walls, make tic marks one foot from each end. Then measure this distance. Now what you do is calculate a diagonal length based on these two numbers. Say the parallel walls are 22' apart, and the distance between your tic marks is 18. Using the Pythagorean theorem, you get a diagonal of 582.44. So hold the dumb end of a tape on one of your tic marks, and where 582.44 interesects the other wall, make another mark. Repeat on the other end. You'll wind up with 4 tic marks which are marking the corners of a rectangle with square corners. Now you can use these as reference points to decide where to place the plates on the end wall. As long as you stay an equal distance from these reference points, measuring along the parallel wall, you will be square.

Now, I'm of the opinion that you could just frame it up as it is and it would be fine. It's been my experience that using trusses is not an exact science. You try to get them as plumb and as straight as you can, but they are usually a long way from perfect. Where it would bite you might be sheathing; you might have to cut a sheet or two or add a scab to the truss chord. IMO


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

@Gregsoldtruck79 Thanks for the sketch, that was my understanding from de-nagorg's previous post, but the sketch clarifies it. It sounds like you and @Nealtw are saying the same thing.
I understand how to lay that out, and how it would result in a square building. I've drawn it up in my plans (attached), and you can see that I can make the left and right walls 2" longer and they will cover the foundation. They are already parallel to each other, and will be where my trusses sit. 
Because I have my overhead door on the bottom (gable end) and a man door at the top (gable end), they will somewhat hide the ledge. Is there anything else I can do to hide it visually on the outside?

Structurally, if I implement it like that, what do I do about the 2" overhang in the top left and bottom right corner of my diagram? I can see how 2x6 sill plates would be necessary, but less than half of my 2x4 framing would sit over the foundation. 2" of the 3.5" stud would be pressing down on a 2x6 that isn't supported underneath. I assume that wouldn't pass inspection. I guess I just have to frame up those two end walls using 2x6 studs?

Thank you all so much for taking the time to help me with this.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Entropy said:


> @*Gregsoldtruck79* Thanks for the sketch, that was my understanding from de-nagorg's previous post, but the sketch clarifies it. It sounds like you and @*Nealtw* are saying the same thing.
> I understand how to lay that out, and how it would result in a square building. I've drawn it up in my plans (attached), and you can see that I can make the left and right walls 2" longer and they will cover the foundation. They are already parallel to each other, and will be where my trusses sit.
> Because I have my overhead door on the bottom (gable end) and a man door at the top (gable end), they will somewhat hide the ledge. Is there anything else I can do to hide it visually on the outside?
> 
> ...


Sounds more like 1 inch front and 1 inch back. that would be fine for 2x4 wall. Changing the front to 2x6 is just a handful of studs anyway.
Or you could build the back wall out of square that would only show up in the overhang and you could actually fix that too by just adjusting the length of you 2x4s for that.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

One of the walls also bows out by .5-.75 inches and crowns up in the middle by .75". Do I just cut studs to custom lengths to flatten the crown and overhang the whole wall an extra 0.5" to cover the bowing?


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Entropy said:


> One of the walls also bows out by .5-.75 inches and crowns up in the middle by .75". Do I just cut studs to custom lengths to flatten the crown and overhang the whole wall an extra 0.5" to cover the bowing?


I would. You do NOT want to transfer a hump in wall all the way up to the roof line. Major mess to straighten out later, if it even could be.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Entropy said:


> One of the walls also bows out by .5-.75 inches and crowns up in the middle by .75". Do I just cut studs to custom lengths to flatten the crown and overhang the whole wall an extra 0.5" to cover the bowing?


Too bad you paid these clowns already.
What a mess.

As mentioned, different length studs for sure.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

More work, and harder, but a person could get 4X4 for a new bottom plate mount and scribe it to be level, then use a band saw to trim off the 4X4 to be level, and bolt/ construction adhesive, it to the block.

And recreate a level, surface to build on.

No matter what you do making this mess a decent place to build on is going to be an annoyance.

I wish you best of luck and patience.

And tell your friends that this mason is a poor craftsman.


ED


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Yes, I will not be recommending this mason to others. I have actually only paid him the first half of the money so far. He hasn't responded to my emails about how he's going to fix these issues. I assume he can't, which is why I've been asking you fine folks.

Additionally, he forgot the j-bolts at the sill plate breaks and didn't fill any of the rebar cavities with concrete, so the top row of blocks currently has almost no tension or shear strength. The inspector somehow signed off on that.

Other walls have smaller humps in them, how big can they be before I should worry about cutting studs?


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Entropy said:


> Yes, I will not be recommending this mason to others. I have actually only paid him the first half of the money so far. He hasn't responded to my emails about how he's going to fix these issues. I assume he can't, which is why I've been asking you fine folks.
> 
> Additionally, he forgot the j-bolts at the sill plate breaks and didn't fill any of the rebar cavities with concrete, so the top row of blocks currently has almost no tension or shear strength. The inspector somehow signed off on that.
> 
> Other walls have smaller humps in them, how big can they be before I should worry about cutting studs?


Don't pay him anything, but watch out. He can lien your house.

I'd say 1/8" - 3/16" would be unnoticeable.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

123pugsy said:


> Don't pay him anything, but watch out. He can lien your house.
> 
> I'd say 1/8" - 3/16" would be unnoticeable.


He replied to my email today saying that he put in the j-bolts today and the square/level/plumb things are only cosmetic issues and kindly requesting that I remit payment so his company doesn't have to put a lien on my house. :sad:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I disagree, Square/ level/ and plumb, is necessary to build on.


You are being bullied by him now.

Fight back.


ED 

P. S. The tower of PISA was built on a sub standard base, and look at where it is now.

Been restructured several times over the years and still leans.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Call your lawyer immediately.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

What complicates this mess, is that the inspector...passed it. The very same OUT the mason will use to defend his position to get paid.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Gregsoldtruck79 said:


> What complicates this mess, is that the inspector...passed it. The very same OUT the mason will use to defend his position to get paid.


Hah, you guys are like prophets. To directly quote the email I received 
"*The inspector passed the block wall after it was cured therefore it's good to build on!* What you pointed out is cosmetics and not structural issues. The cosmetics of the foubdation will no longer exist once its built on. Many of the individual blocks are not perfectly square themselves and that comes with the job and uncontrollable by contractors.... Let me know when payment has been submitted *so the concrete company does not file a lean against your property* for non payment."
emphasis mine

I don't know what the legal requirements are for a foundation, so I have no idea what the legal recourse is for either of us. I hope we can come to an agreement.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

Entropy said:


> Hah, you guys are like prophets. To directly quote the email I received
> "*The inspector passed the block wall after it was cured therefore it's good to build on!* What you pointed out is cosmetics and not structural issues. The cosmetics of the foubdation will no longer exist once its built on. Many of the individual blocks are not perfectly square themselves and that comes with the job and uncontrollable by contractors.... Let me know when payment has been submitted *so the concrete company does not file a lean against your property* for non payment."
> emphasis mine
> 
> I don't know what the legal requirements are for a foundation, so I have no idea what the legal recourse is for either of us. I hope we can come to an agreement.


If someone is going to take the time to type out a nastygram to you ENT, at least they should spell lien correctly.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

Had to chuckle at “merely cosmetic”. Cosmetics was what you hired him for in part. 

You fix this by attaching the bottom plate, putting studs on the corners, stretching a chalk line between the corners and taking each stud and standing it up plumb and tapping the chalk line. Then cut the stud at the line and toenail it to the plate. 

You could keep track of your hours and deduct a fair price for your labor from his payment. 

A talk with an attorney would be in order.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

And plenty of "before" pics of the issues taken for record.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

It's not too far fetched to think that the " inspector" got a little something from this fraud to get the cursory inspection.

Many times the contractor and the inspector are buddies, and the inspector believes everything the buddy says, and just signs while sitting in the truck, takes his bottle of Scotch and goes back to the office.

ED


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Marson said:


> You fix this by attaching the bottom plate, putting studs on the corners, stretching a chalk line between the corners and taking each stud and standing it up plumb and tapping the chalk line. Then cut the stud at the line and toenail it to the plate.


Thanks! This is more straightforward than how I would've done it. 

I just found out one of the corners is higher than the rest by roughly half an inch. Does this mean I should use the same cutting procedure for all the studs on the two adjoining walls? Or can I likely just ignore the fact that its high?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would not build on it until after a judgement has been rendered.

If you build on it now, the crappy contractor can say , " it must not have been too bad, they used it as is."

And probably get double damages from you.


ED


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

If you need reference see if you can find a copy of the ACI 117 or ASTM E1155 these will give you guide lines on flatness standards. Also look this up Estimator Reference it will give you all the expectable standards for concrete flatness. 
I will again say if the home owner had requested a Performance & Payment Bond he would no be worried about the work not meeting standards and who would pay for it.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

ClarenceBauer said:


> If you need reference see if you can find a copy of the ACI 117 or ASTM E1155 these will give you guide lines on flatness standards. Also look this up Estimator Reference it will give you all the expectable standards for concrete flatness.
> I will again say if the home owner had requested a Performance & Payment Bond he would no be worried about the work not meeting standards and who would pay for it.


Thanks. I didn't need floor flatness requirements, but the ACI 117 led me to ACI 530.1, which gives specifications for Masonry. Everything is 3/8-1/2" max for my 22' walls. They don't specify a "squareness", but there is a "true to a line" metric of 3/8" per 20 ft with a 1/2" max.

I'd never heard of a Performance & Payment Bond before either, but will certainly keep that in mind for the future.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

You can shim the bottom plate level, use pressure treated, and then have the foundation contractor squeeze non shrink grout into all the cracks once the walls are framed.
My whole house was on shims including the shingles before the hacks came to fill the gaps as the whole foundation was not level. Surprisingly, the bottom plate did not just squish right down and the shims were regular cedar at about 4-6' spacing.

The out of square can be dealt with easily enough.

Something like this and do not pay the balance (less about a grand for your troubles, written, agreed upon) until they do it.


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## Gregsoldtruck79 (Dec 21, 2017)

I am now bowing out of this one. Whenever even the mention of litigations start on a thread, its time for me to go. I do not care for even the "remote" possibility that any of my postings could end up in a plaintiff's file of paperwork, for their defense. Good Luck Entrophy.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

For those still following along at home, the concrete guy said he's going to come back and rebuild the wall that is out of plumb and level. I'm not sure how this will be accomplished, and I'm doubtful this will be enough to make the building square. I've insisted on a site visit to go over his plan.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Framing on out of level is done everyday. It usually requires stick building walls in place. With a laser level you just adjust the length of the studs to fit.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Any work done from this point on, get in writing. You can dispute town inspector's conclusions. But there is a thing called reality. Mistakes are made, life goes on. Talk to the guy and look for ways to make this work. Pros do it all the time, while cussing. 
Sorry didn't read every word, not that I'll remember the page 1 by the time I'm on page 3.:smile: It sounds like you've measured everything carefully, but did you set up the batter boards with strings? It sounds like you really need a solid frame of reference and maybe a pro to set it up for you, or at least rent a laser level and get your lines accurate. 
The mason said he'll rebuild one side, but I think you should make him set up the line and show you rebuilding one wall will make all 4 sides work together.
Blocks are not filled, as in NJ, but if you are in earthquake zone, they must be, I think. This is a building code that, if passed inspection, you can't insist without it being in a contract. Sill bolts were mason's job.
Out of level areas must be cut away to level. Or lower areas cemented to level. Don't let the mason willynilly work on one side.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Thanks for the advice. I plan to get out there with him and some string lines and his transit and make sure this is all going to work out. I hope he and I can come to a fair agreement, I have no desire to screw the guy over so long as I'm not getting screwed myself. I will be writing up the whole plan and we will both be signing off on it before he starts doing anything to that wall.

All my blocks are not filled, as MI is not an earthquake zone either. The issue previously was that he had not filled the blocks that had the rebar in them, which gives the wall its tension strength by tying the block wall to the foundation. It passed inspection because he told the inspector that he was going to fill them with concrete while pouring the floor, and then just didn't.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

I have yet to put up walls, and the front edge of my slab has cracked along the control joint. I assume this is normal, but the side of my block wall has also cracked along the control joint. How much of a problem is this? I don't see any reason the block should've cracked there. It seems to me like water will get in this crack in the future and just slowly blow that block apart as we go through freeze/thaw cycles.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

As a general update about this saga. He came out and said the only way to fix this was to rip it all out and redo it, and he was going to do that. I thought we could find a better compromise that saved him money and me time, so we agreed he would pay a framer to frame up the walls and deal with the square/plumb/level issues. 

His framer came out and said he wasn't sure he could square it up and wasn't willing to take on the job. So he came back and said the only option was to redo it, and I would "just" need to pay for redoing the floor and he would redo the wall "under warranty", but that he wouldn't get started on it until I paid some of the money still owed to him. Neither of those things is going to happen, so I offered to just pay him all but $2500 of the $4400 I still owe him and be done with him.

He has not responded to any of my 5 phone calls since then or my email, but I'm now thinking that he didn't put rebar in the slab as he was supposed to, and I'm worried that this foundation is not even structurally sound from the cracks that have already developed.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would be consulting a structural engineer.

Have it tested for all your concerns, as well as the quality of the actual concrete.

Then do as recommended, either pay the contractor off, and start over, or build on this questionable mess.


ED


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I think you're worrying too much about the photo cracks. Block crack does not continue to below, eg.
And not another cent until you have a contract and the work is done. Verbal promise is absolutely no good. The contractor wants money to seal the deal or such, but once he's got the money, you are again in the disadvantage. There is no reason for you to compromise on this point. Contractor created problems are his, under any law. Not phone calls. Letters, and pay for the receipt signature. Do at least 2 such letters and establish that you tried some means of compromise, based on HIS words that he will redo the walls. No signature or rejected letter means you tried. You must establish paper trail and a time line.

Slab is easy enough to check for rebars. Cut away a section and see. Footing (was it required?) and rebars are harder to check but you must and have such evidence if you want to try the court. Search the legalities for how long you must wait and learn how to word your communications so that you will win. Until then, not one cent. If you get a lien, so much the better for your case because the contractor is obliged to prove his case. You have time on your side, so cover the work and charge for the time and material. Everything you do, document and estimate a reasonable charge.

Keep looking for a framer. Mason's friend is not your friend. 2" off square is not a disaster. If necessary, see if you have the footing to build a stem wall off the slab. Shimming was already suggested. If you shim where the studs will go, that is an option. Concrete is fairly strong material. Don't get intimidated into redoing the whole thing. Also as long as you don't have to think about hurricanes or such, less than perfect concrete work is good enough. You may want a perfect work to last hundreds of years, but realistically, how many years have you got?:smile: I'm saying make a lemonade out of this, and don't aggravate yourself for the troubles.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Thank you guys so much for the response. I can live with a poor worksmanship. My big concern was if the crack in the block was likely indicative of bigger future problems once the garage was built. I'm relieved to at least hear 1 opinion that it is not a big concern, though I can't see why it would crack right now with no load on it at all. I think I need to replace this block at least.

The advice for how to proceed legally is also much appreciated.

Thanks for the tear out advice. I'd much rather make lemonade than spend more time and money turning my lemons into oranges.


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## Entropy (Apr 16, 2018)

Checked the slab today with a metal detector. There is no rebar in it at all, despite our contract stating there would be. 

So now the floor is not built according to spec, and walls are not built according to any reasonable standard of masonry workmanship. I don't want this guy to do any more work on it, but I'm worried that if I get started on trying to correct his mistakes and "make lemonade" from this, he will come back in a month or 2 and say I should pay him the rest of the money because I tolerated all the deficiencies and found a way to make it work.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

That is possible but again, time is on your side. If you are in a hurry, however, it turns against you. In this case, some people would pay off the contractor just to get on with their lives. Unfortunately, in this case, you either pick to get on or you hold your life until you get a written response from the contractor. Contractor either corrects this or he doesn't, and he can't put it off for months. That is usual way of life and the court recognize it as reality. So state what you want and in so many weeks for the work to start, how and WHEN ENDS in what kind of condition, eg, all debris must be off your property. Money to be paid when independent inspection is done. That will be added cost to you but you have no other choice. New contract must state photo evidence, close up and wide angle of the back grounds, etc for each step of the way. Turn into paranoid maniac and see what thoughts you can come up with.:smile: Then calm down and record only the reasonable thoughts.:smile: When lots of money is involved, that is how contract or work order would be written and nobody can get away with it. This is a small job and home owners are taken advantage of, and that is why you are here. 

BTW did you try the concrete or masonry section of this forum? Pros usually don't want the hassle of legalities, one reason being they know more and it takes too much time in a forum like this. 

Metal detector? I don't know. Ask the pro, but metal detecting pro. If your slab has no rebars, I don't know if that is an evidence. I think only a visual photo evidence will do. That also depends on the spacing of the rebars. I hear every 2' a lot. But wider spacing may be acceptable and the contractor may say that he used a wider spacing and insist that is fine enough (by his experience). So if you want evidence of rebars you may have to cut more than 2 square feet of the slab.
What I meant by lemonade is you may have to accept INFERIOR job. Stop wanting everything that you wanted and go on with your life. But to go on with your life, you have to stop for a while until you get a written letter from the contractor saying he waives all rights to payment, will not go on with lien and considers current payment as total payment for the work he did. Search for liens, contracts in property buying/selling and learn some of the languages that mean "total", "no other options", etc. Get cute and use those languages.:smile: Put the deadlines in your letters. This may drag on over the summer but if you jump the gun out of frustration, you lose.


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