# Drywall attaching to steel purlins.



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

How big are the purlins? is the rest of the ceiling drywall?


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

No ceiling yet, I'm in the process of design. Purlins will be 8" spanning 20feet


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

Its no different than installing sheetrock on a ceiling. Use 5/8” sheetrock.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

no_Wedge said:


> No ceiling yet, I'm in the process of design. Purlins will be 8" spanning 20feet


Will you need to insulate the purlins too?


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> Will you need to insulate the purlins too?


Yes I will insulate. Either foam or fiberglass with vapor barrier.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

no_Wedge said:


> Yes I will insulate. Either foam or fiberglass with vapor barrier.


You might do a drop like you would for ducts in a basement 
2x2 and half inch plywood on the sides a few blocks between them and insulate and then drywall.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I am envisioning 1/4" red iron. I think the others may be thinking metal studs. Your spacing and length tell me it won't work. Sheetrock won't span 8'. Post pictures of what you are planning so we can see what you see.


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## finisher65 (Apr 7, 2019)

You can fir the ceiling out with wood or metal if needed to achieve the proper on center framing & provide a more suitable structure to attach drywall to.


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> I am envisioning 1/4" red iron. I think the others may be thinking metal studs. Your spacing and length tell me it won't work. Sheetrock won't span 8'. Post pictures of what you are planning so we can see what you see.


It's red iron,








14gauge c purlin single slope structure. Like this picture. I will have purlins spaced 2feet if recommended but 4feet max. The span of purlins to beams will be 20 feet.


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

finisher65 said:


> You can fir the ceiling out with wood or metal if needed to achieve the proper on center framing & provide a more suitable structure to attach drywall to.


Will there be any chance of drywall cracking out?


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## RJ123 (Apr 6, 2021)

I wouldn't attach the drywall directly to the purlins. If you are planning on taping the joints the expansion and contraction of the steel will likely crack the taped joints.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

RJ123 said:


> I wouldn't attach the drywall directly to the purlins. If you are planning on taping the joints the expansion and contraction of the steel will likely crack the taped joints.


Use a metal grid system like Armstrong or USG. There are also others on the market.
hanging-framing-flat-ceilings-technical-guide.pdf (armstrongceilings.com)


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Or, you could put 1 x 4 softwood strips in the perpendicular direction to the purlins, on 16" centers.


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## Half-fast eddie (Sep 19, 2020)

SPS-1 said:


> Or, you could put 1 x 4 softwood strips in the perpendicular direction to the purlins, on 16" centers.


Or 2x4’s 24” oc.


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

Half-fast eddie said:


> Or 2x4’s 24” oc.


With y'all's experience would 1x4 or 2x4 be better. I'll probably put the purlins 2 feet so won't be much deflection.


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## RJ123 (Apr 6, 2021)

Metal studs, 3 5/8" , 16" oc


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

I'd use 7/8" hat channel @16"o.c. for furring, even big box stocked 25ga will span 4' purlin spacing if you choose that route. Held by Tek screws into the 14ga C purlins. 

Won't split like a 1x4 and costs less than a 2x4.


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## finisher65 (Apr 7, 2019)

3onthetree said:


> I'd use 7/8" hat channel @16"o.c. for furring, even big box stocked 25ga will span 4' purlin spacing if you choose that route. Held by Tek screws into the 14ga C purlins.
> 
> Won't split like a 1x4 and costs less than a 2x4.


I'd go with hat channel too, preferably 20ga


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

finisher65 said:


> I'd go with hat channel too, preferably 20ga





3onthetree said:


> I'd use 7/8" hat channel @16"o.c. for furring, even big box stocked 25ga will span 4' purlin spacing if you choose that route. Held by Tek screws into the 14ga C purlins.
> 
> Won't split like a 1x4 and costs less than a 2x4.


Great idea! that channel looks exactly like what I need. Never seen it used here. Is there a recommended way to attach it, and will sound transfer be an issue since it's metal on metal. Like during rain or hail storm.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

no_Wedge said:


> will sound transfer be an issue


You have the diaper on the walls and ceiling, right? Are your plans including adding insulation once the ceiling is installed?


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> You have the diaper on the walls and ceiling, right? Are your plans including adding insulation once the ceiling is installed?


There will be added insulation fiberglass batts in between purlins. I may or may not use the diaper.


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## finisher65 (Apr 7, 2019)

no_Wedge said:


> Great idea! that channel looks exactly like what I need. Never seen it used here. Is there a recommended way to attach it, and will sound transfer be an issue since it's metal on metal. Like during rain or hail storm.


The attachment method will be self drilling screws but the gauge of the metal purlins will determine it specifically


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

Use the Tek screws with your socket, 3/4" self-drilling Tek3 should get through the 14ga easy enough. I don't think you have to worry about using metal furring, any method of using wood, gaskets or anything else would be just slightly incremental in reducing the sound of rain on the metal roof. I assume you are finishing your walls too, I'd be sticking with metal studs for that as well.


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## no_Wedge (Jan 6, 2011)

3onthetree said:


> Use the Tek screws with your socket, 3/4" self-drilling Tek3 should get through the 14ga easy enough. I don't think you have to worry about using metal furring, any method of using wood, gaskets or anything else would be just slightly incremental in reducing the sound of rain on the metal roof. I assume you are finishing your walls too, I'd be sticking with metal studs for that as well.


Ok ivet seen the little sound dampening clips for those, but didn't know if it was worth it. As for walls I considered metal studs as I've used them a lot commercially, but wood 2x6 is a little cheaper and easier to work with attach to for a more residential setting.


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