# Is this how I wire fuel pump sender connector?



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Same old 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6. I got the new in-tank fuel pump installed from related posting. But when I disconnected the old fuel pump sender connector, I found it to be in bad shape and falling apart. I have a new connector ready to install this coming Saturday, It came with crimp terminals and heat shrink tubes.

The new connector has four black wires. The wiring bundle from the truck has colored wires
(attached photos). I think I know how to connect the wires.

I orient the new connector exactly like old one, with locking tab facing down. 

Then

OUTER LEFT BLACK WIRE is crimped to ORANGE WIRE
INNER LEFT BLACK WIRE is crimped to YELLOW WIRE
INNER RIGHT BLACK WIRE is crimped to RED WIRE 
OUTER RIGHT BLACK WIRE is crimped to BLACK WIRE

....................correct?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

You have the diagram right there on old pump. Sounds good to me. Do one wire at a time. That's how I do it. But I solder and heat shrink it. But connecters tend to corrode over time. The red and black wires are for the pump. The yellow and orange wires are for the sending unit. :vs_cool:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Correct, copy the pattern on the original.

Corroding butt connectors are not the worst problem that they present to you, if not crimped tight enough, they will slip off and need repaired, Corrosion is delayed very much by the heat shrink, that is what it's for. 

Careful there too, the heat shrink can shrink too much, and be useless. 

Even soldering can corrode, if improperly done. 

Wiring is a skill that many can't master, be diligent in all aspects of it.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. Thanks.

And I won't forget to slip on the heat shrink tubing first!

I have only soldered once and it was difficult. I still have not mastered it. I also have crimped wiring which was easier. I'll have to decide which way to go. I'll report back on this when I finish


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

One guy told me he has used this method in the past; he just spliced the wires together and used heat shrink tubing and was done with it. No solder and no butt connector. Said it held together. I'm not saying I'm going to do this. But surprising this method was used for automotive wiring.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

For years my ******* step-father just twisted wires together, then used Black electrical tape to cover them.

Then later he would always need to re-tape the connection, because something snagged the wiring, and pulled things apart.

Moral of the story, anything will work

TEMPORARILY.:devil3:

ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I know what you mean, Ed. I would not feel comfortable jury-rigging fuel pump wires that way. Maybe ok for something less critical.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> One guy told me he has used this method in the past; he just spliced the wires together and used heat shrink tubing and was done with it. No solder and no butt connector. Said it held together. I'm not saying I'm going to do this. But surprising this method was used for automotive wiring.



Only done by cheaters. The good enough bunch. :wink2:


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Definitely should be soldered and heat shrunk. If you need to watch a couple youtube tutorials on soldering and practice on some scrap wire.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

raylo32 said:


> Definitely should be soldered and heat shrunk. If you need to watch a couple youtube tutorials on soldering and practice on some scrap wire.


 I agree that soldering is best, unless he wants to run a complete new circuit. 

But I believe that, done right, the BUTT connectors, and heat shrink, will out last the truck. 

I'm not saying that he has a bad truck, I have a few retired old FORD trucks my self, sitting around, with plans to get them going again someday.:vs_laugh:

But is seems that as with others, " LIFE" gets in the way of dreams. 

And the bank account does not refill itself.


ED


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Last thing I wired was using butt connecters with heat shrink. It was just a fog light assembly though, nothing critical. I taped it up with gorilla tape and zip tied it out of the way. FWIW, it still works.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I got the new fuel pump sender connector wired up yesterday. Tested it by starting it up twice and driving it with no problem.


Tried starting several hours later and SAME STARTING PROBLEM IS BACK!


To sum up, here are the facts


1. Truck always seems to fire up _eventually _after multiple attempts.
2. I don't hear the fuel pump humming until it finally starts up
3. Replaced relay, fuel pump connector, and fuel pump as you all know.
4. I can hear relay click when I turn key

5. Vacuum/vapor lines look ok
6. I found about 6 electrical ground connections inside the engine compartment. All look intact
7. When I finally get truck started, it runs well and continuously. It does not cut off
8. Fuel pump fuse intact


Could this be a bad ground connection on the frame somewhere? I couldn't find a ground connection under the box. I think I remember seeing one under the engine block. Does the fuel pump have it's own ground strap?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Maybe you are chasing the wrong cause.

On your steering column, you insert the key into a lock cylinder, that subsequently moves a rod , that goes down the column, to a SLIDING SWITCH assembly. 

If this rod gets worn a bit, or any of the holes that it connects through are worn. Then the switch is slightly out of alignment and does not power all the things that it should to run the truck. 

Sometimes the switch wears enough that it loses contact internally, sometimes the switch mounting screws loosen, and it slides enough to lose internal contact. 

Sometimes a repair person, changes the thing, and gets it wrong, and intermittent operation occurs. 

I have had to realign a few over the decades, and always cursed the maker for such a stupid idea. 

This might not be, or might be your dilemma. 

Worth considering though.


ED


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

My son had a pontiac that did the same thing we found the problem in the ignition where a little plastic trigger was supposed to pop out when you turn the key was sticking because it was sitting on a bit of an angle.
With that same problem now I would say just run a new wire from a toggle switch to power the relay. Or just run a wire from the plus side of the coil.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Thanks Neal and Ed. I'm open to the possibility that it could be the 27 year old ignition switch. But you're talking to someone who does not know much about electricity. I don't how to run a toggle switch wire, or run a wire to plus side of coil. Is this a simple test you're talking about to see if ignition switch is the culprit?


Is there a larger ground strap under the engine I should check as well?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> Thanks Neal and Ed. I'm open to the possibility that it could be the 27 year old ignition switch. But you're talking to someone who does not know much about electricity. I don't how to run a toggle switch wire, or run a wire to plus side of coil. Is this a simple test you're talking about to see if ignition switch is the culprit?
> 
> 
> Is there a larger ground strap under the engine I should check as well?


If the starter and alternator work your ground is fine, at the engine. If the lights work the ground for the body is fine.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> Thanks Neal and Ed. I'm open to the possibility that it could be the 27 year old ignition switch. But you're talking to someone who does not know much about electricity. I don't how to run a toggle switch wire, or run a wire to plus side of coil. Is this a simple test you're talking about to see if ignition switch is the culprit?
> 
> 
> Is there a larger ground strap under the engine I should check as well?


Do you have a multi meter?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

In wetter climates, there might be a possibility that a rusty ground contact could be the cause, but in Ariz. ( where I think you said you are), rust is a not too probable.

There should be a ground strap from the engine to the firewall, then the cab is bolted to the frame, and all other things bolted to the frame, are a Common Ground. 

And wiring a toggle switch, is no harder than what you did to splice in the new wiring terminal. 

Take + wire from the battery, to the switch mounted under the dash above the center console, then to the pump relay. The ground is already present.

oh and use a fusible link as your +. 


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Damn! It started up again, It's running now. 


I did it a little different this time. I left ignition key in the ON position longer till I heard a second click Sometimes I heard a second relay click, sometimes I didn't. THEN I would crank when I heard the second relay click.


You're toggle procedure doesn't explain enough.


I meant to buy a new multi-meter but never got around to it

I don't know what do next, to be honest.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> Damn! It started up again, It's running now.
> 
> 
> I did it a little different this time. I left ignition key in the ON position longer till I heard a second click Sometimes I heard a second relay click, sometimes I didn't. THEN I would crank when I heard the second relay click.
> ...


 The first click you hear might be another relay, like power to the coil. 



In the box where the relay is you have spaces for more relays, with a meter you would find a socket that powered up only when the key was in the run position. Then you would make up five jumpers about 6" long with a male and female ends on them so you could plug in all but #1 which would plug into that other socket. Either #! or #2 bring power from the ignition.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

This is obviously an electronic/electric related problem.


But just for laughs, I shut off the engine and pressed the fuel rail Shrader valve. Gasoline squirted out with pressure. I just wanted to make sure fuel pressure regulator was ok.


Sorry. I don't have enough basic knowledge yet to run this test with the jumpers. I'll see if I can find an online procedure with picture/diagrams.


You know it just occurred to me. It's like the ignition process is running in slow motion..........possible clue?


If I can continue intermittent starting, it might be good to pickup a few items at the auto parts store. I'm just not sure what that would be.


Let me ask you this simple question. I've unbolted and lifted the box twice. I don't want to do this again. I got the new pump and fuel sender connector installed. Obviously, these components work. Will I need to do any testing in the fuel pump to tank connection area? If not, I would like to put the box, filler neck, and tail light connector back together so I can use my truck (with intermittent starting)



Thanks for your patience. I'm willing to keep trying


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> This is obviously an electronic/electric related problem.
> 
> 
> But just for laughs, I shut off the engine and pressed the fuel rail Shrader valve. Gasoline squirted out with pressure. I just wanted to make sure fuel pressure regulator was ok.
> ...


 I think you are done at the thank, I would put that back together. 



When it doesn't start leave the key on and wiggle the relay and see if you can wake it up. Maybe just a bad connection there. Or maybe a faulty relay.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

This would get you home in a punch,


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hey. I just did Neal's relay wiggle test with ignition key in the ON position.


First I gently wiggled the wire bundle for the power distribution box. Nothing. Then relays one at a time.



I heard a click and humming. It came from the center position EEC Power Relay when I wiggled it. 



Is the trouble area narrowed down then?



But why the EEC relay? I thought fuel pump relay made the humming sound


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Rangerxlt said:


> Hey. I just did Neal's relay wiggle test with ignition key in the ON position.
> 
> 
> First I gently wiggled the wire bundle for the power distribution box. Nothing. Then relays one at a time.
> ...


Maybe the power goes thru other relays before it gets to the fuel system


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Yeah, That makes sense Neal. Could this lead back to possible issue with the EEC(computer chip) itself? Or you think it's likely power distribution box/relay area?


I replaced all three relays only 10 months ago.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Friends,


I'm going to swap out relays to test. EEC and fuel relays interchangeable on my truck. I'm also going to check relay slots and wiring for corrosion. I do have a coiled cord circuit tester with probe and bulb indicator, and maybe I can use this to test relays?


I'll put the truck back together also, if I need it to run to auto parts store. I'll report back.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

It looks like problem is solved. Let me drive it a couple more days to make sure. I'll report back Tuesday night to explain what problem was. Neal, I saved your video on bypassing relay too. Thanks


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I await a full report, Cadet.:biggrin2:



ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

You can count on it.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

The EEC Relay was the culprit. I just replaced the thing 10 months ago. Already got a refund for it. Thanks very much guys. I can't tell you what a relief it is when I turn the ignition key and engine fires up



I don't regret replacing the fuel pump and fuel sender connector. These would have needed replacing soon anyway.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

That happens sometimes when the parts store, accepts electronic returns from a "shady" customer. 

Thus the reason for the no returns on electronic parts, at the stores. 

I'm glad that it was simple, to fix.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Yeah, Ed. Maybe I got stuck with one of those reject parts.


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