# Handy tips for a happy house--



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Hydrogen peroxide works to get out blood stains in fabrics and carpet. (found that out when I cut my dogs nails to close.)
When washing a wall make sure to start at the bottom and work your way up to reduce run marks.
Orange based cleaners work really good on any oil based stain or grime, stove tops, clothes, nicotine stained trim and walls ECT.. Plus it smells good and is safe to use.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Rubbing alcohol will remove permanent marker from _some_ surfaces. 

Once the rubbing alcohol gets closer to its' expiration date, it doesn't remove as much of the ink.

Don't have any candles and the power is out? Can't find a flashlight? Grab the solar powered landscaping lights out of the yard and bring them in the house. They're not bright enough to use for reading, but they'll provide enough light to get around in the dark for a few hours. Put them back outside in the morning to recharge them.

Barb


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## SawDusty (Dec 5, 2012)

Please do be careful when mixing any cleaners, solvents, household chemicals... I know a fellow who mixed bleach and ammonia to clean his bathroom. Mix those two together and you will release an extremely toxic gas.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

SawDusty said:


> Please do be careful when mixing any cleaners, solvents, household chemicals... I know a fellow who mixed bleach and ammonia to clean his bathroom. Mix those two together and you will release an extremely toxic gas.


Don't mix powered bleach and wintergreen liniment together either, it will flame up big time. Don't ask how I know.:whistling2:

If you do a lot of wood working, install a pencil sharpener on the side of your miter saw. 

Next time you buy a tape measure get one with a magnet on the end, it will save your back many times.

Anyone have a tip on what to use to clean a fiberglass shower floor, some cleaners will ruin the fiberglass.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

BigJim said:


> Don't mix powered bleach and wintergreen liniment together either, it will flame up big time. Don't ask how I know.:whistling2:
> 
> If you do a lot of wood working, install a pencil sharpener on the side of your miter saw.
> 
> ...


I use a steam cleaner because nothing I could find worked!


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

A little bit of dry baking soda on a damp washcloth will take crayon marks off of a painted wall - with a little elbow grease.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Hairspray will remove ink from some fabrics.
Denatured alcohol will remove pencil lines on wood and save a lot of sanding.
Any time your going to install trim start with the longest pieces, if you miscut one you can use it on the short runs,


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

When cutting casing keep a speed square and a spring clamp handy---

When measuring a double miter --clamp the speed square to the heal of the first cut and then hook your tape to the square---fast and accurate----


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Man, that is a neat trick Mike, I sure could have used that one years back.

On door trim, I cut the header piece 1 inch too long with both ends mitered. I put the piece of trim up there and see if the miter is good on the right side then check the miter on the left side and see if it fits good. 

If one of the miters is off a little I cut it to fit good. Place the piece of trim back up and fit the one I had to adjust then make a mark on the other end and make my cut on that end, the piece should fit perfect then.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Back when I was doing a lot of stairs, every once in a while I would run into a tread that had to be cut on an unequal parallelogram and some that were the shape of a trapezoid. The way to get the exact fit, rip a piece of one X about an inch wide and longer than half the tread is long, cut one end to a point so the point is in the middle of the one by, or close to the middle.

On the front of the riser where the tread is to be installed, make a mark close to the center on the very front of the riser, it doesn't have to be exactly dead center. Now place the stick on the front of the riser flush with the front running parallel with the front of the riser. Let the point of the stick touch the exact point the riser touches the skirt on the left side. At the mark on the riser make a mark on the stick and label that mark on the stick "A". 

Turn the stick around and lay it back on the riser flush with the front and let the point of the stick touch on the right side where the front of the riser touches the skirt. Make a mark on the stick at the mark on the riser and label it "B". 

Now let the point of the stick touch the back corner on the right, let the front of the stick touch the mark on the front of the riser, make a mark and label that mark "C". Now let the point of the stick touch the back corner on the right side and let the stick cross, or touch, the mark on the front, make a mark and label it "D".

Now that that is done measure from the back of where the tread will sit, against the next riser to the front mark and remember that measurement, lets say it is 10 inches just for an example.

Take a blank tread you plan to use, measure from the back of the tread toward the front in the center front of the tread, make a dot at the point you measured, our example is10 inches from the back. Using the stick, lay it at the dot and keep it parallel with the front edge of the tread. The tread will be wider than the measurement you made from the back to the front of the riser where the mark is. 

I am not good at explaining things so let me do this. If you were to make a mark on each end of the blank tread from the back, the measurement you made to the mark (our example is 10 inches). If you were to take a straight edge and make a mark from the mark at each end it would be parallel to the front of the tread but siting back a little. 

Now lay the stick a long on that line you just drew, with the point to the left. Put the mark "A" on stick on the mark in the center of the tread on the front. Make a dot at the point of the stick on that line you drew. Now turn the stick around and on the line with the point to the right and put the mark of "B" on the center dot, make a dot at the point of the stick. 

Now on to the "C" mark, put the mark "C" that is on the stick on the front center dot and point it to the left back. Where the point of the stick touches the exact back edge with the mark on the front dot, make a dot there. Now the last one on the back right do exactly like the mark at "C" except use the mark at "D". Almost finished. On the left side, draw a line from dot "A" to dot "C" the on the right do the same from dot "B" to "D" and that will be the exact size and length of the odd ball tread. Man, I am confused now.LOL

Here is another short tip, before cutting the actual tread, make a template to be sure the side cuts are straight instead of curved, it does happen. I am sorry to make this so long, had I known it would take that much to explain I wouldn't have bored y'all with this long post. By the way, this set up works on odd window seats also.


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## dftc (Nov 12, 2012)

These are kinda long directions but they have saved me a ton of time and unnecessary drywall destruction when running network cable (and romex). This may be common knowledge, but I've never seen this posted anywhere else. I learned this after I accidentally drilled a 3/4 inch hole through a hardwood floor a foot away from the wall I was trying to hit from the basement.

If you need to drill into a wall cavity from above or below (such as from a basement or attic) you can use a piece of cheap metal coat hanger to find the exact spot you want quickly and avoid a lot of measuring and crossed fingers.
This is very useful for running cable or pipe in a retrofit situation. This doesn't always work too well with tile floors.

Clip off a straight piece of metal coat hanger (the kind you get from the dry cleaner) at least a foot long. I make it as long as possible because it will be used as a marker and it's easier to see if it's long. Cut one end at a 45 degree angle to make a sharp point.

Find the spot next to the wall where you want the hole inside to be. If you have hardwood floors you may want to pull the trim away from the wall. It's not necessary with carpet.

Chuck the coat hanger into a drill like its a drill bit, sharp point out.

Drill straight down (or up) as close to the wall as possible. The wire hanger is flexible, so you can bend it slightly to get closer to the wall than your drill would normally allow. Make sure the wire is going straight down (or up) through the wood though.
The coat hanger wire will go right through wood without much resistance. It is small and smooth so it won't tangle on carpet and the hole will be invisible when you are done. It leaves a tiny hole in wood floors that is easily made invisible with wood putty. If you pulled the trim back then you don't need to bother with putty.

After you feel the hanger break through to the other side push it through at least a few more inches and then leave it in place.

Go to the other level you just drilled to and look for the hanger wire sticking through.

Measure over a few inches from the hanger wire to find the center of the wall on the other side. If it's a 2x4 wall with 1/2 inch drywall then measure 2 1/4 inches, plus any additional distance you left between the wall and the hanger.

Pull out the hanger when you are done.

The instructions are a little involved, but it only takes about a a minute to do and you know for sure you are going to be drilling exactly where you want every time.


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## momist (Jan 27, 2014)

BigJim said:


> Anyone have a tip on what to use to clean a fiberglass shower floor, some cleaners will ruin the fiberglass.


Give a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water a try. This cleans most plastics and ceramics very safely, and vinegar is good for getting rid of limescale and watermarks. :thumbsup:


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## El Barbón (Nov 25, 2013)

A good strong steam-cleaner (either for carpet or for garments) will soften old paint; it's a great way to remove lead-based paint without making a lot of dust.

A cheap sticky roller (one of those re-usable lint-roller thingies) is a super-fast way to peel off flaking paint for some quick prep work.

And here's one that won't save *you* time, but will help the next guy out: Don't use 75d, 1000-year nails for stuff that somebody else might have to tear out some day. Make your improvements reversible whenever possible; whatever you think is super-cool today will be forehead-slappingly undesirable someday. Unless it *is* actually super-cool. :jester:


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## Female (Jan 2, 2008)

*Ergonomic Tip*

The time & money this tip might save is in avoiding a trip to the doctor to get a cortisone shot(s) in your thumb and/or elbow. If you get so involved in painting or doing anything else with a straight handle that you tend to keep an overly tight grip on the handle for too long, it helps to keep extra 3/4" to 1" foam or rubber pipe insulation around, and to fit a short piece over the handle. It makes painting with any kind of roller super comfortable. Usually your grip is enough to keep the insulation in place, but if not a rubber band can secure it.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

here are a few:


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

When fishing wires inside a wall, under a floor or across a ceiling---use your tape measure-----it will stay straight better than most fish tapes---and you already own it!


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If your going to paint the ceiling and the walls, bring the ceiling paint down about a 1/2" on the walls. Then when you paint the walls it is a lot easier to cut in looking straight at the walls instead of almost standing on your head to cut in the ceiling.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> here are a few:


To use the dust pan to fill that trash container with the air holes cover the holes from the inside with DUCT tape.


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## kgagnon121 (Nov 13, 2011)

*fiberglass tub*



jbfan said:


> I use a steam cleaner because nothing I could find worked!


I use grease lightning(home depot) and Magic erasers together works great!!


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

kgagnon121 said:


> I use grease lightning(home depot) and Magic erasers together works great!!


Will the greased lightening hurt the fiberglass? I know the magic eraser won't.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I use a lot of Greased Lightning--I don't think it will hurt fiberglass.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

There's one here I'm going to vote against, the rubber band on the paint can.
1. It unloads too much paint from your brush.
2. Never paint out of a can with that much paint in it. Almost always when you get to the point of brushing it is for cutting in. And whatever you use for this there should not be more than a inch or two in the container. Then instead of dragging your brush tap it on the sides of the container.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

oh'mike said:


> I use a lot of Greased Lightning--I don't think it will hurt fiberglass.


Thanks buddy, I will get some of that if we don't already have some.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Greased lightning is what I use when applying silicone caulk---

To get a perfect bead of caulk--apply the caulk--then spray it with Greased Lightning--spray your finger and smooth out the caulk--


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Having problems with the wood splitting that you’re trying to nail? 

Simply dull the point of the nail by tapping on it a few times with the hammer. Anti split nail. Works (almost) every time.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A Heavy duty painters 5 in one tool is the best things made for removing trim work---the thin blade will pry off trim with less splitting than a small pry bar.

Trapped base boards can be removed easily with the painters tool--pry the base out a little---locate the nails with the painters tool--set the blade on top of the nail---hit it with a hammer---the nail will pull out of the back of the base board---

A drywall hatchet is the handiest tool when installing or removing trim--the thin wedge shaped 'hatchet' head is great for gently prying trim or lifting up base molding---(grind the face flat or you will have waffel marks if you hit wood)


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I don't know if this is a no no or not but it always worked good for me. If you have a nail that didn't set when shooting trim, pull the clip of nails back in your nail gun, where it won't fire another nail. Put the gun over the nail that didn't set so the nail is in the hole of the gun and pull the trigger, it will set the nail. If the nail isn't set deep enough you can pull the clip of nails back then hold the tip of the gun over the nail you want to set deeper and pull the trigger. It always worked for me.

One more thought, don't roll your electrical cords up on your arm, it ruins the cord or at least makes it retain a coil memory.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

When applying wood glue to a flat surface--a thin scrap of wood makes a great spreader--use it like a squeegee---

you will get more even coverage than using a paint brush.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you are having trouble hooking up to your trailer or boat, here is an easy way to see exactly where to go and when to stop. This mirror goes on the tailgate of your truck.


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

Put a little dab of white lithium grease some where inconspicuous on or near your work bench, in your tool box, under the hood of your car/truck. You will be surprised how often you use it when it easily available. For instance on the truck when the door takes a little more effort to close I lube the alignment mechanism while I am thinking about. At my work bench when changing utility knife blades out a tiny film on the slider...


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I learned this one a few hours ago...

If you splatter Great Stuff foam in your hair, resist the urge to wipe it out while it's still wet. Instead, let it dry. Then shampoo your hair and use conditioner. When you run a fine-tooth comb through it, the foam will slide out and you won't have to cut your hair.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If you need to use a chalk line for some thing such as flooring to keep it from going away from like walking on it after you snap the line spray it with hair spray.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Be careful using red chalk to snap a line it will bleed thru paint.


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## SawDusty (Dec 5, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Be careful using red chalk to snap a line it will bleed thru paint.


Red and Black are rather permanent. Blue is more likely to wipe, wash, blow away. The most common colors are blue and red, but you will also find white (talc), yellow, green, orange, and black. If you're working indoors, go for white as it is the least permanent. Anything other than white or blue are very likely to stay there for a long time. If you're laying out walls or a pattern of some kind and you decide to move a line, change to another color so you can remember which line is which.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> Be careful using red chalk to snap a line it will bleed thru paint.


So will a blue ball point pen on sheet rock.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Jim, you asked about a cleaner for a bathtub. I just found this one on Pinterest and all of the comments people left are positive, so it looks like a good one. And it's fairly inexpensive to make.

- *Bathtub Cleaner* -

One part vinegar
One part Dawn dish washing liquid

It looks like 1/2 cup of each would be a good amount for a spray bottle.

Warm the vinegar in the microwave for 90 seconds and pour it into a spray bottle. Add the Dawn and swish it around until it's all mixed well. 

Spray it in the tub and let it sit for 1-2 hours. Wipe it out and rinse well.

I'm going to give it a try tomorrow. We have city water, but it's hard water and any parts of the tub or shower wall that have a texture are tough to clean.


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## jovingo (Jul 22, 2009)

BigJim said:


> Don't mix powered bleach and wintergreen liniment together either, it will flame up big time. Don't ask how I know.:whistling2:
> 
> If you do a lot of wood working, install a pencil sharpener on the side of your miter saw.
> 
> ...


Wet and Forget cleaner was recommended in Handyman Magazine and I have been using it on my acrylic tub and fiberglass surround. It works great and does not harm my fiberglass surround. http://wetandforget.com/product_wet_and_forget_shower.html


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

gma2rjc said:


> Jim, you asked about a cleaner for a bathtub. I just found this one on Pinterest and all of the comments people left are positive, so it looks like a good one. And it's fairly inexpensive to make.
> 
> - *Bathtub Cleaner* -
> 
> ...


Now that is too weird, we just finished cleaning the shower yesterday and that is what we used. We tried several different things but that is what we wound up using, it does work. We didn't heat it though, we will give that a shot next time.

The floor wasn't all that dirty but we didn't want it to get too bad either. We even got a couple of the Mr Clean sponges, man that was a joke, but they did do a good job getting the soap streaks off the porcelain tiles on the walls.

A strange thing is going on in the very corner of the shower, there is something pink there, it washes off but it comes back any ideas what it is and how to get rid of that.

jovingo, I am afraid to try something new that I am not sure won't etch the gel coat of the fiberglass. The fiberglass tub we took out was etched and next to impossible to get stains off, we are a little gun shy to try somethings, I appreciate the information and your time to post it.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Another tip, this is the type of plastic storage case I use to store my router bits in. I have two of them, one for 1/4 inch and one for 1/2 inch and I need one more, I have some more cutters I need to put in one, the other two are full. These cases are great for carrying out on the job also. I have all my extra bearings and such in one of them also.


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## Dave88LX (Nov 10, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> Greased lightning is what I use when applying silicone caulk---
> 
> To get a perfect bead of caulk--apply the caulk--then spray it with Greased Lightning--spray your finger and smooth out the caulk--


Oh man, that beats the hell out of licking my finger like I've been doing!!!!!!!!



BigJim said:


> If you are having trouble hooking up to your trailer or boat, here is an easy way to see exactly where to go and when to stop. This mirror goes on the tailgate of your truck.


I LOVE YOU!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

There seems to be an abundance of recommendations for household cleaning so I'll add another. Before you pitch that old toilet in the land fill have the maid try something similar to Hotty Potty :laughing: for a couple of months if it has been neglected or has stubborn calcium deposits. A couple of Tbs goes a long way.

You may not find anything equal at the box or mart stores so consider trying another avenue that a Custodial / Janitor supply is located on. Not recommended for metals or fiberglass. The supplier where I buy this recommended a stainless sink and fiberglass cleaner of a lesser strength of Phosphoric acid for those and similar materials.


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## FixItFranky (Feb 21, 2014)

Don't buy annoying from Bunnings! We have managed to find everything cheaper elsewhere plus it's better to support local suppliers


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Fairview said:


> There seems to be an abundance of recommendations for household cleaning so I'll add another. Before you pitch that old toilet in the land fill have the maid try something similar to Hotty Potty :laughing: for a couple of months if it has been neglected or has stubborn calcium deposits. A couple of Tbs goes a long way.
> 
> You may not find anything equal at the box or mart stores so consider trying another avenue that a Custodial / Janitor supply is located on. Not recommended for metals or fiberglass. The supplier where I buy this recommended a stainless sink and fiberglass cleaner of a lesser strength of Phosphoric acid for those and similar materials.


I wouldn't recommend using that if you had a septic tank, it might kill all the good bacteria in it.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

BigJim said:


> I wouldn't recommend using that if you had a septic tank, it might kill all the good bacteria in it.


Thanks Jim for the heads up and I've considered that but that's possibly true for several household cleaners including bleach. Using a couple Tbs spoons in 3 toilets occasionally hasn't seemed to cause problems with the septic system for the past 30 years.


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## Jb1234 (Aug 18, 2012)

This might be a stupid one or one everyone does, but I'll put a piece of masking tape/blue painters tape/etc. on the side of my tape measure to jot the numbers down on. I keep the tape roll by my cutting area. So I'll just slap a new piece on after my cuts. When I would write measurements down on a piece of scrap, if always forget where I put it down. Ha.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Jb1234 said:


> This might be a stupid one or one everyone does, but I'll put a piece of masking tape/blue painters tape/etc. on the side of my tape measure to jot the numbers down on. I keep the tape roll by my cutting area. So I'll just slap a new piece on after my cuts. When I would write measurements down on a piece of scrap, if always forget where I put it down. Ha.


OH MY Gosh Jb, that is so old fashion.  A young whipper snapper showed me how to record stuff like that on my iphone just a few days ago and now I can't find my pencil. :laughing:


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## Jb1234 (Aug 18, 2012)

Ha. The funny thing is I do a ton of things on my iphone, but usually go "old school" when doing house projects, I think that's my dad's influence. But the best thing I like using the phone for is to either take pics or video of something BEFORE I tear it apart. This was invaluable when I remodeled my bath and had, for a novice, a lot of electrical to put back. I also like using the video with the light turned on to look overhead into drop ceilings, inside of walls, behind a wall mounted TV to find where the plugs are, etc. Also the bubble level (inside the compass app) is actually not horrible in a pinch.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

If you have a battery operated gadget that takes more than 1 battery - 4 AA for example - and testing the first for voltage shows 1.245 V, don't waste time checking the 3 remaining batteries. They will fall closely within the same range and are trash. Be certain to dispose of properly.:laughing:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

*Useful Knot*

A very useful knot, but possibly not well understood by the average DIYer as well as a sailor and therefore not used much, is the Clove Hitch. Most any search will provide the how to tie instructions for the common Clove Hitch.

What isn't common, and I've not found it listed anywhere, is what I've learned to tie and call it the Improved Clove Hitch. I'm getting old and need things fast. :yes: The standing end seems to hold just the same as the standard Clove Hitch but is much quicker to tie and untie. It's the one pictured with the shoe string looking loop. It can be tied starting just as the standard but as it is completed, rather than pulling a long length of rope through, the working end is doubled to be pulled through and that working end is pulled to quickly untie the knot.

I'll not be applying for a patent so feel free to do so.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

*Need to remove base molding*

I like to use a painters tool--tap it in between the trim and wall--and gently pry the trim out a bit---then find the nail with the painters tool--set the tool on top of the nail---hit it with a hammer.

The nail will be bent and pulled out of the back of the trim.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

A recipe to get rid of skunk odor on your dog...

1 (16 ounce) bottle hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda 
1 dash shampoo or 1 dash Dawn dish soap

Mix thoroughly and saturate fur.


Thankfully I haven't had a chance to use this recipe!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

gma2rjc said:


> A recipe to get rid of skunk odor on your dog...
> 
> 1 (16 ounce) bottle hydrogen peroxide
> 1/4 cup baking soda
> ...


My Gawd that brings back memories when a narrow stripe brought $2.25 good cash money during the war. I'd go hunting with my older brothers in the Model-A and I guess they didn't know how to tie skunks to the bumper with a clove hitch so they brought them to the fur buyer inside the car. :laughing: Maybe that was part of perfume history.:no:


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

- If you hand worsh your dishes a splash of vinegar in the rinse water keeps it from getting soapy. Plus, it adds another layer of disinfecting. 

- Simple Green is a great ant killer. In fact, when my son was 6 or 7, he asked why I was cleaning the kitchen with ant killer.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Mort said:


> Simple Green is a great ant killer. In fact, when my son was 6 or 7, he asked why I was cleaning the kitchen with ant killer.


How do you use it? Do the ants actually eat it? Any ants in particular?


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Gotta rig this up for my wife.:laughing:

http://videos.komando.com/watch/537...rce=notd&utm_content=2014-03-31-article_3-cta


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## Blondesense (Sep 23, 2008)

gma2rjc said:


> A recipe to get rid of skunk odor on your dog...
> 
> 1 (16 ounce) bottle hydrogen peroxide
> 1/4 cup baking soda
> ...


I have. 

It works better than anything else out there.


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## Blondesense (Sep 23, 2008)

Do you use the old "broomstick in the sliding glass door" trick?

Drill a hole across one end of the stick. Tie one end of a piece of string or cord (approx 4') through the hole. Tie the other end of the cord to a bumper or eye screw half way up the trim. This way you can easily get the broomstick in and out of place without bending down.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Blondesense said:


> Do you use the old "broomstick in the sliding glass door" trick?
> 
> Drill a hole across one end of the stick. Tie one end of a piece of string or cord (approx 4') through the hole. Tie the other end of the cord to a bumper or eye screw half way up the trim. This way you can easily get the broomstick in and out of place without bending down.


Should we use a Clove Hitch? :yes:


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

mikegp said:


> How do you use it? Do the ants actually eat it? Any ants in particular?


A simple step-by-step process.

1. Find ants

2. Spray them with Simple Green

3. Open beer, relax after your hard work.

Seriously, though, I'm not sure how it works or whatever, but even if the ants hate the smell so much that they commit suicide, it works good enough.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

r0ckstarr said:


> Should we use a Clove Hitch? :yes:


The Improved Clove Hitch for a quick get away. :laughing:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

*Mowing Season Tip*

To possibly prevent taking your mower to a shop for repair only to discover the gas cap vent was plugged with dust as the culprit try this. Mine plugged during the first year. That was 5 years ago and it hasn't been a problem since the AL foil was installed.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

*Gutter Cleaning*

I don't do ladders all that well anymore and I don't get onto the roof at all, so I devised a way to only go up the ladder twice to clean the problematic end gutter of the house. This time it was Oak blooms.

The brick has shelf liner duck taped to it for a scrubbie. With twine attached and the brick parked about the center of the 32 ft. gutter run, I can pull the twine, either from the ground or on the ladder, and slide the debris to one corner. Clean that out and repeat for the other half. When finished pull the brick back to approximately center and park it there for the next cleaning. Recommendation -- be a good gutter steward :laughing:, don't procrastinate and allow the gutter to get too full.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Jb1234 said:


> This might be a stupid one or one everyone does, but I'll put a piece of masking tape/blue painters tape/etc. on the side of my tape measure to jot the numbers down on. I keep the tape roll by my cutting area. So I'll just slap a new piece on after my cuts. When I would write measurements down on a piece of scrap, if always forget where I put it down. Ha.


What's wrong with your arm....:thumbup:


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Fairview said:


> I don't do ladders all that well anymore and I don't get onto the roof at all, so I devised a way to only go up the ladder twice to clean the problematic end gutter of the house. This time it was Oak blooms.
> 
> The brick has shelf liner duck taped to it for a scrubbie. With twine attached and the brick parked about the center of the 32 ft. gutter run, I can pull the twine, either from the ground or on the ladder, and slide the debris to one corner. Clean that out and repeat for the other half. When finished pull the brick back to approximately center and park it there for the next cleaning. Recommendation -- be a good gutter steward :laughing:, don't procrastinate and allow the gutter to get too full.


Good. I took about a bushel of "oak blooms" out of the gutters this month. I hate them things.

I have a worse situation, my ladder will only reach the gutter in the back from the deck, the center 12' of 36'. I made a stick from two pieces of poplar trim, with a metal scraper kind of thing on the end that is cut to fit the shape of the gutter. This lets me reach the 12' to the left and right of the deck. It cleans it out very well. Of course I have to pick it up to jump over the gutter nails.


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## bilug (Apr 16, 2014)

*Poly pipe*

If you've ever had to use a barbed fitting on black poly pipe...you know how hard that is.
I found the if I smear the OUTSIDE of the poly pipe with pvc glue and light it on fire, by the time the glue burns off (20-30 seconds) the pipe is just soft enough to easily push the barbed fitting in. A couple of hose clamps on it while it is still warm seals it perfect.


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## hidden1 (Feb 3, 2008)

You can also make "Gutter blaster" with a bent attachment piece, made out of pvc or aluminum,etc,and attach it to the blower to clear our gutters also .
Some use hose attatchments but i like the blower better.


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## hidden1 (Feb 3, 2008)

Also--Cleaning tip 
-Mold block mixture can be mixed in a gallon container with a mixture of 3/4 water with 1/4 vinegar and 1 cup borax sprayed on a clean surface,,one that molds easily ,then let dry -to form a micro film that can last for several months, depending on area, and that inhibits the mold to cling to surface.


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