# Kenmore Oven Broiler Kaput...need top fix



## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

downdraft said:


> My Kenmore electric stove's broiler element burned out...i.e. like "whamo!"
> The oven and bake icons light up, but no heat.
> (The element "blew" when my wife went to toast a...


Start with the known bad broiler element.
You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.

The part is probably in stock locally.


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## downdraft (Dec 9, 2008)

"Start with the known bad broiler element.
You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.

The part is probably in stock locally. "...???? 

I noted in my initial text that I replaced that bad element with a new one, but neither the oven nor the broiler came on...there was a light "click" as I switched from Oven to Broil...but no cigars!

Do you think the "click" is a relay?

THNX


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## downdraft (Dec 9, 2008)

TarheelTerp said:


> Start with the known bad broiler element.
> You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.
> 
> The part is probably in stock locally.


Start with the known bad broiler element.
You have a 50:50 chance of that being the only problem.

The part is probably in stock locally. "

...???? 
I noted in my initial text that I replaced that bad element with a new one, but neither the oven nor the broiler came on...there was a light "click" as I switched from Oven to Broil...but no cigars!

Do you think the "click" is a relay?

THNX


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

you have an electronic control board on your range, correct? You set your bake and broil through this control board, correct? If that is so then the relays are built into that control board, sometimes when elements burn out they will short out a component of the control board. You will have to replace your entire control to fix your range. Yours will run about $120.00


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## downdraft (Dec 9, 2008)

Is there any way to test the EOC which appears to be a printed circuit, with a few possible removalbe attachments?

My question is as such because I wouldnot want to purchase a new board only to discover it might be something else, and then have the new board and element both go...

Looking at the schematic I don't recognize any "connectables" to it, so I'm inclined to agree with you.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

the only thing you can do is check to see if you are getting 220 volts to either element, I assume you are not. If you trace the bake and broiler circuits on the wiring diagram you will see that both get their voltage from the relays on the board. You have a bad board.


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## downdraft (Dec 9, 2008)

I agree...but one more question: Why did the circuit breaker for this 
220 V circuit not trip?

Thanks for your kind attention


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## Protocol. (May 31, 2012)

downdraft said:


> I agree...but one more question: Why did the circuit breaker for this
> 220 V circuit not trip?
> 
> Thanks for your kind attention


When relays blow up they will usually blow up open or closed.

You can quickly check the element with an ohmmeter to see if it's still good or not (element needs to be isolated).

What tells you that the element is blown? I see that you say it severed. Was there burn marks on the case? Sometimes the relays will internally fail.


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## downdraft (Dec 9, 2008)

Yes, Ive checked both elements, Bake and Broil, and there is continuity and a satisfactory Ohm reading...the Broil element busted open close to the tip...no burnmarks were on the connecting wires...

According to the schematic relays L1 seemed to acommodate both elements...but if they are good, being part of the Electronic Oven Control panel would be hard to measure whether they are OK...there is still 240V at the socket


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## TarheelTerp (Jan 6, 2009)

downdraft said:


> I've checked both elements, Bake and Broil...
> there is continuity and a satisfactory Ohm reading...
> no burn marks were on the connecting wires...
> ...there is still 240V at the socket


If you have 240V at the socket then power has made it through the controls.
If you can pass that power to the element that has continuity... it should heat up.

Something you're reporting isn't as it appears.


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## Protocol. (May 31, 2012)

Do you have a wiring diagram or schematic you could post? It sounds like the relay on the board. L1 and L2 together will run both elements. either L1 or L2 and the neutral will typically run your electronics (@120v)

Have you removed the board (carefully) and inspected the board for any damage? Have you checked the wiring for damage? Have you checked continuity from the element wires back to the board or wall? Remember, you need to isolate the component before testing it.


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