# Best way to cut out lots of drywall?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

If dust is a concern use a hand saw---jigsaws and Sawsall have a fan to cool the motor-dust will fly.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

From experience: Roto-Zip, made just to do this. And YES, I own one and use it often.


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## CplDevilDog (Mar 18, 2009)

Fein Multi-master or Rigid Multi tool oscillating blades do a nice job.


A low dust alternative that will give you some large, easy to transport to the dumpster, pieces. 

Score the tape and mud at the corners or edges of the board. Knock a hole in the board big enough to stick your arm in. Following the stud or joist down as far as you can reach, smack the back of the drywall to dislodge it from the fasteners. Done right, you can dislodge a 4x8 sheet in two pieces. Not suitable if you want to save the board or remove a section from the center of a board.


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

I score it where I want the repair to stop, then use a drywall saw being careful not to dive in too deep. Electric wires, you know.
I do like mentioned above but instead knock a hole in the middle with a claw hammer and then jerk sections down until I get a view of any wires/plumbing above.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

darsunt said:


> I'm concerned about making tons of dust.


You could just bubble the work area off with plastic. 
Then you can go at it.:thumbsup:


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## Dwoodsmith (Jan 13, 2011)

Thurman is right. There's no doubt the rotozip was made for that job.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Dwoodsmith said:


> Thurman is right. There's no doubt the rotozip was made for that job.


Yep! :yes:--->*http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_saw*


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## masterofall (May 27, 2010)

Never tried to free hand with a spiral saw, just following outlets and pot lights counter clock wise. Is it not difficult to make a straight line free hand with the gyrating effects of the spinning motor and the grabbing of the spiral blade? I think I would be using a drywall saw myself


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## MoldyJay (Jan 9, 2011)

If you have never used a rotozip there is a very good chance it could "run away". Plus the dust factor you didnt want. I would just use a utility knife and saw if I were you.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The spiral saw will definitely generate plenty of dust and the running motor tends to blow it all around. The multi tool would not be as dusty, but there's the expense. I'd stick with a utility knife and board saw made for drywall. They are sold at the big box stores probably $10.00 or so....


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## williamwiens (Nov 13, 2010)

I take a sawsall blade, extend it to as far out as the tool allows and then trim it to a half inch from the guide.
I clip off the blade with some aviation snips.

\the blade will now only cut 1/2 inch deep at it's most extended point.
I can then run this down a stud or use it for a cutout without risk of cutting too deep into wires etc.

\other than that, what they said...rotozip.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

This tip won't help with dust---However,When using a sawsall to cut drywall--
Always install the blade up side down---

this position allows you to make a 'skim' cut on the face of the drywall--press the back of the tool,flat against the drywall,then rock the handle up while cutting and you will have good controle of the depth of cut.


NEVER use a plunge cut--it's to easy to hit wires and pipes.---Mike--


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I use an old jig saw with the shortened blade with pliers, as mentioned. I add my piece of 1' square clear plastic chair covering between the shoe and motor removing/installing one screw. Keeps the dust out of motor while I rip using my 1' extension guide following a blue caulk line snapped on the waste piece so I don't need to watch the blade. Unless a joint is close, using a stud finder first.....Then I snap a line on joint, knife the joint paper and rip it out using my 3' handled grub hoe levering off the ceiling joists.

Gary


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