# York Diamond 80 Intermitten Flame



## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Just because you replaced the limits does not mean they were faulty. They may have been doing there job. You need to check for 24 volts from each side of them to the C on the board or ground. If one is open it will lose voltage and you can tell us which one it is. If it is the rollout switches tripping (manual reset) then you have a cracked heat exchanger/overfired unit/venting problem. You should also check the temp rise thru the furnace and compare it to the specs on the rating/model plate. Ie 40-80 deg temp rise. Check the supply temp a foot downstream from the top of the bonnet/plenum and subtract the return temp. If it is too high then you have a dirty A/C coil, fan too slow, undersized ductwork or some vents/dampers closed. My sister has a Diamopnd 80 and the tin foil insulation inside the furnace by the heat exchanger came loose and this can block airflow and cut out on the limit. Had to secure it with some washers and sheet metals screws or buy some DuroDyne pin type fasteners for tin foil insulation for ductwork. SAH type
http://www.durodynecanada.ca/canada/products/insul_fasteners/insul_fast_menu.htm


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> Just because you replaced the limits does not mean they were faulty. They may have been doing there job. You need to check for 24 volts from each side of them to the C on the board or ground. If one is open it will lose voltage and you can tell us which one it is. If it is the rollout switches tripping (manual reset) then you have a cracked heat exchanger/overfired unit/venting problem. You should also check the temp rise thru the furnace and compare it to the specs on the rating/model plate. Ie 40-80 deg temp rise. Check the supply temp a foot downstream from the top of the bonnet/plenum and subtract the return temp. If it is too high then you have a dirty A/C coil, fan too slow, undersized ductwork or some vents/dampers closed. My sister has a Diamopnd 80 and the tin foil insulation inside the furnace by the heat exchanger came loose and this can block airflow and cut out on the limit. Had to secure it with some washers and sheet metals screws or buy some DuroDyne pin type fasteners for tin foil insulation for ductwork. SAH type
> http://www.durodynecanada.ca/canada/products/insul_fasteners/insul_fast_menu.htm


We did check heat exchanger and it was not crack and all was well with AC coil as well. I may have a bird nest or something on top of the house that I may need to check because all dampers are open and all vents are in check as well. Limit switch is obviously tripping (high Limit) do to overheating, so it must be a blockage somewhere, and I am thinking on top of the house. Any other suggestions. I am getting 24 volts on high limit switch, but opens up when it trips (gets to hot in the exchange area). Also during the 2.5 min run time nothing really seams to be blowing out of the vent closest to the unit, which should be at a tremendous force. Open to other helpful hints.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

*One more thing*



Setdyi said:


> We did check heat exchanger and it was not crack and all was well with AC coil as well. I may have a bird nest or something on top of the house that I may need to check because all dampers are open and all vents are in check as well. Limit switch is obviously tripping (high Limit) do to overheating, so it must be a blockage somewhere, and I am thinking on top of the house. Any other suggestions. I am getting 24 volts on high limit switch, but opens up when it trips (gets to hot in the exchange area). Also during the 2.5 min run time nothing really seams to be blowing out of the vent closest to the unit, which should be at a tremendous force. Open to other helpful hints.


I check the voltage across the high limit switch and it is the high limit switch that is actually tripping open, when the flame goes out. So the temp is building up in the exchanger and then emergency mode kicks in and the limit switch trips.

I removed the vent tube just in case the vent may be plugged at the top of the house, but the same results happened again, so it is local to the exchanger, which we checked and there are no cracks or rust on top and bottom of the unit.

Can anyone help me figure this one out?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Did you look at both sides of the evap coil. Or just the top side.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Did you look at both sides of the evap coil. Or just the top side.


No I have not looked at either side of the evap coil. Just took off the front panel this morning to see if I see anything hanging down from the condensation tray, but there are no visible obstructions. Heat is just not getting out from the unit, which makes me think that blower fan must not be functioning properly, although it seems to be working fine.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Dirty A/C coils don't let air flow through them. And cause lots of problems like this.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Dirty A/C coils don't let air flow through them. And cause lots of problems like this.


So it looks like I have to take this unit apart and clean these coils, what's the best and most efficient way to clean these coils


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Dirty A/C coils don't let air flow through them. And cause lots of problems like this.


 
Coils on both sides look clean.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Buy a new capacitor for the fan motor or test it with a meter. It may be weak and not getting the motor up to speed. Or if all else fails call a Pro, we are running out of ideas.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

If teh cap isn't the problem.
Looks can be deceiving.
The coil can still be dirty.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Or the motor itself is slowing down. When the windings go they can still run but not have the right amount of speed/horsepower. See that a few times.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

Setdyi said:


> No I have not looked at either side of the evap coil. Just took off the front panel this morning to see if I see anything hanging down from the condensation tray, but there are no visible obstructions. Heat is just not getting out from the unit, which makes me think that blower fan must not be functioning properly, although it seems to be working fine.


 
Well it looks like the blower is not motor is not turning so that it explains the non air movement. It is crazy because it was working. Any ideas as to why it would stop at this point.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Is it very hot to touch? If so it may be seizing up and may need a new capacitor. If it is not hot then you need to check for voltage to the motor from the board.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> Is it very hot to touch? If so it may be seizing up and may need a new capacitor. If it is not hot then you need to check for voltage to the motor from the board.


No the blower mower is not getting any power at all because it is not even rotating. Thus why the heat is not bing pushed through. So does this sound like just the CAP.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Check all your wiring. Follow it back from the motor to the board and check for loose wires.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> Check all your wiring. Follow it back from the motor to the board and check for loose wires.


 
Did that and nothing no rotation. I know the motor is not ceased up because I can spin the spinner with my hand. Everything else is working like it should. I get green light from the board flashing like it should until the flame turns on, then the amber light and then the limit high limit switch opens up high.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

1) If you have A/C put the thermostat fan switch to ON and see if the motor runs or turn the A/C on. 2)You need to follow the wiring diagram, figure out which motor wire is for the heating speed, unplug it and check for 110 volts there when the burner is running. If no voltage then the board is bad. Make sure all the wires from the motor including the white are connected properly. If it has a white molex electrical connector unplug and replug it in and make sure all the wires are pushed in to the connector. You can also stick your meter probe there to check for the 110 volts.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> 1) If you have A/C put the thermostat fan switch to ON and see if the motor runs or turn the A/C on. 2)You need to follow the wiring diagram, figure out which motor wire is for the heating speed, unplug it and check for 110 volts there when the burner is running. If no voltage then the board is bad. Make sure all the wires from the motor including the white are connected properly. If it has a white molex electrical connector unplug and replug it in and make sure all the wires are pushed in to the connector. You can also stick your meter probe there to check for the 110 volts.


Ok I will do this and let you know what happens.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> 1) If you have A/C put the thermostat fan switch to ON and see if the motor runs or turn the A/C on. 2)You need to follow the wiring diagram, figure out which motor wire is for the heating speed, unplug it and check for 110 volts there when the burner is running. If no voltage then the board is bad. Make sure all the wires from the motor including the white are connected properly. If it has a white molex electrical connector unplug and replug it in and make sure all the wires are pushed in to the connector. You can also stick your meter probe there to check for the 110 volts.


It runs with AC on but very slow.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Sounds like it needs a new capacitor and possibly a new motor. Try Graingers for the capacitor.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> Sounds like it needs a new capacitor and possibly a new motor. Try Graingers for the capacitor.


Ok so the fact that it is working with the AC and not the furnace means I only have an issue with the capacitor and not the board. I hope this is will correct things.

Thanks or your help. I have a local guy who I have been getting my parts from so I am sure he will have this one as well.

Thanks. Yuri


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

*The heat is on!*



yuri said:


> Sounds like it needs a new capacitor and possibly a new motor. Try Graingers for the capacitor.


YURI,

I replaced the CAP ($8.59) and the unit fired up. All is running well now.:thumbup:


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Alls Well that ends Well.:rockon:


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

yuri said:


> Alls Well that ends Well.:rockon:


Thanks:thumbup:


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## user (Dec 15, 2009)

Hi Yuri,
I have similar problem on my York Diamond 80 Furnace. Couple of yeasr back I did replace flame igniter and it was ok till this morning. Now I have flame coming in for few seconds and going away. Flame igniter remains red hot after a while flame returns and remains lit for anothe few seconds and then extinguishes. I pulled the top cover out and was observing this cycle. I did feel the click on the top of solonoid coil. Which indicates it is getting proper signal to open up. when the flame comes on. I am thinking replacing solonoid coils. What do you think?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Restriction in vent system.


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## user (Dec 15, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Restriction in vent system.


No checked that. I can feel good amount of air blow from the furthest register. The air is cold though.


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## user (Dec 15, 2009)

*Issue resolved.*

Just want to give a feed back on the diag. When I checked the flashing of LED on the main board, it was 7 flashing then break. Called in local York tech to find out if the solonoid is readily available. Per him they do not cell solonoid coils for gas furnace. Entire gas valve needs to be replaced. 

Let me give my rational for why I was thinking about the coils. I had similar issue on my gas dryer which will start up for few seconds and then the flame will go away. Igniter will turn red hot but gas will not ignite. I fixed this problem by replacing the solonoid coils and it is working fine. So I jumped to this conclusion. 

However talking to one of my friend he suggested to clean the "Flame sensor" (This is on the left side, igniter being on the right) Cleaning this sensor did the trick. 

Now I have a heat in the house.

Thanks for Internet and such forums that some one else having similar issue can resolve it in future.

As a maintenance, this sensor needs to be clean ever 2 years or so.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Needs cleaning every single year. Keep your fabric softener out of the furnace area. Fumes from it corrode the sensor rapidly.


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## user (Dec 15, 2009)

yuri said:


> Needs cleaning every single year. Keep your fabric softener out of the furnace area. Fumes from it corrode the sensor rapidly.


Thanks for that info. However just to note the fact that my furnace is 11 years old and this is the first time I have cleaned this ! ! !


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

user said:


> Thanks for that info. However just to note the fact that my furnace is 11 years old and this is the first time I have cleaned this ! ! !


You don't really have to change the oil in your car every 3 to 5000 miles either. 

It just won't work as well if you push it too long.


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## user (Dec 15, 2009)

beenthere said:


> You don't really have to change the oil in your car every 3 to 5000 miles either.
> 
> It just won't work as well if you push it too long.


LOL....;-)

Liked your analogy. Now It will be first thing on my list.

Thanks.


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## Setdyi (Nov 12, 2009)

Seems to be a useful thread and hope it will help others.


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## jmann444 (Nov 30, 2010)

I also have a York diamond furnace.There is no heat, and I went looking around and the control board is flashing the 5 error code, which the book says is the rollout switch is tripped. I'd like to give a reset a try before a service call. After looking all around the area of the burner, and the electronic valve that controls the gas flow, there is no manual reset switch to be seen. Can you guys give me a pointer that might get me through a cold night?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Check the sides and the top of the burner.


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## jmann444 (Nov 30, 2010)

there is an off/on switch on the electronic gas valve, nothing else that I see.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Post pics of the burner area. Can tell you where they are then.


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## iwalkbarefoot (Feb 8, 2014)

user said:


> Just want to give a feed back on the diag. When I checked the flashing of LED on the main board, it was 7 flashing then break. Called in local York tech to find out if the solonoid is readily available. Per him they do not cell solonoid coils for gas furnace. Entire gas valve needs to be replaced.
> 
> Let me give my rational for why I was thinking about the coils. I had similar issue on my gas dryer which will start up for few seconds and then the flame will go away. Igniter will turn red hot but gas will not ignite. I fixed this problem by replacing the solonoid coils and it is working fine. So I jumped to this conclusion.
> 
> ...



I know this thread is old but I just wanted to say thank you. My furnace had been doing exactly what you described and I temporarily solved it by leaving the fan running all the time. Once I cleaned the sensor it fired the fan right up on it's own.

Thanks!


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