# HOw to support 8X8 porch posts sp the bottoms can be replaced



## Earlofcarleton (Sep 6, 2009)

I have three 6x6 cedar porch posts that support a porch roof on a cement porch. The top of the posts, where they meet the beam are incased in a very intricate facade. I do not want to remove this facade to give me access to the beam to insall a temporary support post while I replace the bottoms of the existing posts.

See attached photos.

























Can I bolt a piece of a 6x6 tothe existing post above the area that needs to be replace and then remove it once the replacement piece is installed?


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I assume your plan is to bolt a temporary 6x6 near the top of the existing 6x6 (I assume it is a 6x6, although your header says it is an 8x8), then put a jack under the temporary 6x6 to hold up the roof while you fix the existing 6x6. This is a perfectly reasonable plan, just make sure you give yourself enough working room to make the fix, and make sure the jack has an adequate base to support it.

The hard part is making a good fix on the rotten part of the 6x6, post if you have any questions about how to do that.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Simple answer, no. You will have to brace the roof (should have been done when the damage was noticed), and remove the post. Yes, that includes redoing the trim.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Earl, welcome to the forum, and thanks for including pics.

I think I see the 8x8 reference. Was the bottom ~18'' of the post wrapped with cladding to make it similar to the top of the post? The paint line suggests cladding to add an architectural detail to emulate the 'Classical order'.
This would explain the 6" vs 8" post difference.

Earl can you post a pic of the bottom of one of the other posts that still has the cladding? And also a pic showing more of the arched tops. You have a porch with significant architectural details worth saving.

Measure the actual width of the 6x6. Modern 6x6's are smaller, but there are ways around this.
.


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## Earlofcarleton (Sep 6, 2009)

*Here are photos of the bottom cladding*


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I am also going to put some sort of outdoor ceramic tile on thie porch while I am renovating it. The cement is starting to flake but it is not to bad now.

Should this tile run under the new post bottoms (I will have to drill two holes in the tile if it does to accomdate the two pins in each post holding it in the cement)

Or could I run the tile around each post and then caulk it to make it waater proof.

This cement proch can be covererd in the winter with up to 3 feet of snow.

Thanks

Dennis


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## Earlofcarleton (Sep 6, 2009)

*posts*



Daniel Holzman said:


> I assume your plan is to bolt a temporary 6x6 near the top of the existing 6x6 (I assume it is a 6x6, although your header says it is an 8x8), then put a jack under the temporary 6x6 to hold up the roof while you fix the existing 6x6. This is a perfectly reasonable plan, just make sure you give yourself enough working room to make the fix, and make sure the jack has an adequate base to support it.
> 
> The hard part is making a good fix on the rotten part of the 6x6, post if you have any questions about how to do that.


It is a 6X6 and that is exactly what I had planed to do. In fact I was thinking of putting a spacer block between the perminent and temporary post so I would have room to work.

There are two pins holding the post on the cement. I think I would have to make the splice in two pieces so I would have room to move the old post off the pins and place the new one on the pins. 

I was thinking of using construction glue to hold the splices together. Any other suggestions?

Thanks


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Earl,
Building a new Base 8x8 section around a 6x6 pressure treated core will be the easiest way to go.

A new 6x6 post is now more like 5-1/2 x 5-1/2, so the cladding to build the bottom section up to 8x8 will have to be a little thicker than on the original post.



Earlofcarleton said:


> ...........
> There are two pins holding the post on the cement. I think I would have to make the splice in two pieces so I would have room to move the old post off the pins and place the new one on the pins.


 Instead of pins pre-drill pocket holes in the Post as in the sketch using a Kreg Jig similar to this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...9&cm_mmc=shopping-_-google-_-D25X-_-100375609

Pocket screws are normally used for wood to wood connections but the Kreg jig can be used to align the hole then enlarge it to accommodate a hex head driver for a Tapcon anchor. I would look to sink the tapcon about 1-1/4" into the concrete. You will have to experiment on a scrap section of a post to get the right jig set-up.
http://stickwithpl.com/pdf/PL%20Premium%20Tech%20Data.pdf



> I was thinking of using construction glue to hold the splices together....


 I would use a Polyurethane adhesive similar to:
http://stickwithpl.com/pdf/PL Premium Tech Data.pdf

Herer is a Link to a another rotted post thread that has pics of the temp supports:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f2/fixing-rotted-porch-post-pics-my-contractors-work-48507/
.


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## Earlofcarleton (Sep 6, 2009)

*I got it*

Thank you so much ... I off to get the "stuff" I need and will post a phot0 or two when it is done.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

I would not set the new post on the slab, PT or not. Support the roof. Cut off the bottom of the post up to solid wood (at least a foot up to give you a way to connect the old and new post). Install a section of post to fill in the gap, less the amount to install a Simpson post anchor (HD, Lowes or any building supply store). The Anchor will prevent direct contact of wood and concrete and hold the post to the slab. Connect the old and new posts with hurricane straps ( another Simpson product- basically a gavanized strap with pre punched holes). This will give you plenty of compression strength but little lateral strength. Now build the post bottom feature our of 2x stock, overlap the post joint by at least 2 feet and use plenty of deck screws ( this will give you lateral support). Add the moldings to restore the decorative look. I can not tell if the bottom surround on the old post is 1x or 2x stock, I would rebuild with 2x for strengthening the post joint. If rebuild all the bottom surrounds it will look like it was designed that way.


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## Knucklez (Oct 21, 2007)

i wonder if you might want to take this opportunity to insert a metal bracket between the concrete and the wood post? for whatever reason, wood rots when in contact with cement. hence the invention of the post holder.

you can clad over it with trim to hid it.. and when that trim is in contact with cement i guess it will rot .. but much easier to replace 5yrs from now than a post!

some ideas to support roof while removing post


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## Earlofcarleton (Sep 6, 2009)

*jacks instead of new posts.*

Great Idea. Iwill check out the cost of it. It sure would be easier.

Thanks


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Use the poly boards for the concrete contact trim.
Ron


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## willcmjr (Sep 14, 2009)

I would do PT 6x6, on a bracket, wrapped with PVC Trim


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