# Attaching framing to concrete floor?



## sausagefingers (Nov 16, 2008)

Yeah that should be great. Just put one ever couple of feet or so, since it's not going to be holding anything up except sheet rock I suppose. Probably be better attached than some in your house...haha.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

No need to put one between each stud. That's some serious overkill. One every 3 or 4 feet is perfectly adequate.


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## Chagres (Oct 13, 2007)

That should be more than enough. In my garage, when I built a pantry in the garage (kitchen door goes into the garage), I shot down the bottom track with my Ramset (metal track) every couple of feet. But the long wall was perpendicular to the ceiling joists so it was easy to tie in on every one. Made for a strong wall.

Kelly
http://www.icanfixupmyhome.com


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

I inspected a lot (hundreds) of homes in LA and MS after Katrina.

In the local tradition, every corner was cut including proper nails.

I saw many homes (several years old) that had temporary high water saturation the "drywall" for the first 6" to 12".

When they went to remove the "drywall" in the interior non-bearing walls, the entire wall went out. - That gives you an idea of the thappens to the wrong nails in PT wood. The nails were gone before the flood.


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## sawyerEd (Aug 9, 2008)

I don't know many contractors who nail wallboard anymore. PT plates are used in places where the wood is in contact with masonry that can wet the plate, rot its fasteners, and grow mold on the gyprock. You should make sure this doesn't happen or you'll be doing the whole job over again.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

sawyerEd -

You are right. These jokers used normal nails to attach the studs to the interior PT plates for the interior non-bearing walls.

The nails driven in to attach the PT plate to the slab and the nails to attach the studs to the PT plate just disappeared in a few years and the attachment of the "drywall" was stronger than the stud attachment to the plate and/or the concrete.

Even construction adhesive probably would have lasted longer than the improper nails.


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## timthetoolman (Oct 5, 2007)

Don't any of you guys use construction adhesive anymore? No one seemed to mention it. I always use liquid nails on my pt sill plates and use a powder actuated fastener in between every couple studs. Works very well as long as your board is straight. Have never had a problem. I don't think its really worth the time to go and predrill every single one and use a tapcon on a non load bearing wall.


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## SNC (Dec 5, 2008)

timthetoolman said:


> Don't any of you guys use construction adhesive anymore? No one seemed to mention it. I always use liquid nails on my pt sill plates and use a powder actuated fastener in between every couple studs. Works very well as long as your board is straight. Have never had a problem. I don't think its really worth the time to go and predrill every single one and use a tapcon on a non load bearing wall.


All I would do is shoot them down, rarley use the glue. And I would never use tapcons in the floor to much time and really no gain.
The only time Ive ever drilled for fasteners, other than bolts is when there are cables in the slab


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## steel baron usa (Dec 29, 2008)

*wall*



gone_fishing said:


> I am putting up a non-load supporting wall to hang drywall. It's being put up in my garage which is concrete. My plan was to attach the PT bottom plate with 2 3/4" tapcon screws. 2 at the end of each 8' section and 1 between each stud.
> 
> Ok?


Definitely ramset 2-3' apart


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