# Best way to self level badly sloped concrete floor



## wannabecool (Aug 2, 2012)

Our sunroom is ~200 sq ft [11 x 17] and slopes 1 3/4" over 11 ft. (Oh yes the foundation had issues 10+ years ago hence the slope, the previous owners had 8 piers put in and I had the same company come look at it again and nothing has moved since then so I feel comfortable fixing it). Looking @ LevelQuik RS 50 lb. Rapid-Setting Self-Leveling Underlayment it says it can be poured up to 1" thick. Obviously that will not be enough. Trying to figure out how to best level the floor so we can lay tile on top. Thought about doing two layers but not sure if the levelquik has to have a minimum thickness. Anyways, I have done a bunch of stuff but concrete is not one of them so would love to have some advice on what would be the best route of getting this room level. Thanks in advance.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That's a lot of filling for Self leveling compound---consider using 'deck mud'--placed on top of a fresh wet bed of modified thinset---

You may need SLC in the thinner spots as deck mud can only be packed in an area 3/4" deep or deeper.
"Mud" What Is It? - Kitchen & Bath Remodeling - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum


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## scootermcrad (Jul 23, 2012)

I have a similar issue. Our house had an addition built and has a slope AND a slight step down in them middle. Similar in size to your room and slope as well. 

Is it best to simply add concrete over the slab?? What are some methods for resolving a situation like this??

Going to follow this! Great topic!

BTTT


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Simply pouring a thin layer of concrete won't work---bad adhesion and shrinkage will cause the poured product to pop loose.

That's why the Thinset and deck mud---


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Simply pouring a thin layer of concrete won't work---bad adhesion and shrinkage will cause the poured product to pop loose.

That's why the Thinset and deck mud---


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## scootermcrad (Jul 23, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> Simply pouring a thin layer of concrete won't work---bad adhesion and shrinkage will cause the poured product to pop loose.
> 
> That's why the Thinset and deck mud---


Gotcha'! I figured that might be a reason not to just go over a slab with another.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The process is simple 200 year old technology---it is used under most large marble installs in hotels and bank lobbies.

The key is a perfect mix --so a concrete mixer really helps to get the mortar consistently damp--

I haul a small mixer to most shower pan jobs as I find hand mixing to tedious---


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## wannabecool (Aug 2, 2012)

Thanks oh'mike for the quick replies. Yeah I kinda figured I was out of the realm for SLC. I guess it makes sense to do around 2.5" of concrete (in the lowest parts) so that the highest parts still are covered with a significant concrete base. I would just need to raise the outside door up to match. But other than that it shouldn't be a huge deal.

You said to put the deck mud on top of the wet thinset. How would I accomplish that without stepping on it? Should I divide the room into quadrants and do a section at a time?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Kind of like setting tile----start on one wall and work your way out of the room---about 2 feet wide at a time----

Deck mud is rather dry---just damp enough to pack into a ball---you can get up on the fresh packed mud ,if you must, by laying down some plywood walking boards-


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