# How do I install trim around stair treads?



## AtlanticWBConst.

You actually should have installed 1x stock skirt boards on each side, and then you would have installed the treads and risers after, butting them to the skirt boards. What about removing your treads and risers and doing it??

Example:


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## JayBird

Your absolutely right, I should have done that now that I'm at where I'm at. In my old home I refinished a set of stairs and they were built with the treads inside the skirt board (pre-fab stairs). So I guess I had that in mind while doing this project. I actually tired notching out 1X to put around the treads but it wasn't working out for me, so I am currently notching the drywall. I'm using a jigsaw to cut the drywall to keep the cuts as neat as possible but I'm still getting some gaps bigger than I would like. I figured if I could get the drywall fairly tight to the stairs I could run a nice bead of caulk and be done. 

The treads are nailed and glued down already so I'm stuck. BTW, those are a very nice set of stairs.


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## Termite

Since removal of the treads isn't an option, let's look at other ideas. Are you staining, painting, or carpeting the treads? 

Perhaps you could use some sort of small moulding at the transition between the wall and the stairs?

Or, since your rock is fairly tight to your treads, you could try to bridge that gap with caulk. If you're staining the treads, you could use masking tape to keep the caulk in a very straight line so it won't look too out of place on the tread.

Can you post a picture of what you're dealing with?


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## JayBird

thekctermite said:


> Since removal of the treads isn't an option, let's look at other ideas. Are you staining, painting, or carpeting the treads?
> 
> Perhaps you could use some sort of small moulding at the transition between the wall and the stairs?
> 
> Or, since your rock is fairly tight to your treads, you could try to bridge that gap with caulk. If you're staining the treads, you could use masking tape to keep the caulk in a very straight line so it won't look too out of place on the tread.
> 
> Can you post a picture of what you're dealing with?


The treads and risers are already stained and sealed. I ordered them from a cabinet shop this way. I initially was going to bridge the gap w/ caulk but as I go the gaps vary. Right now I'm having the most trouble keeping the gaps tight to the bull nose. I'm on board with a small molding but I don't how to get around the bull nose to cover the gap. I will post a picture.


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## JayBird

Here are a few pics :

I would also like to add that each riser and bull nose vary slightly. The stair stringers were cut *on the job* when the house was built and they did a poor job keeping everything exact. They are close but that is why my gaps vary. These stairs were not pre fab stairs. I find I have to trim the drywall here and there as I go to make it fit.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Caulking is your friend.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Larger spaces, you are just going to have to tape and coat. 

BTW - The stairs look great!


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## Termite

I agree, you'll need to tape the larger gaps and feather out the tape several inches with drywall mud to hide it. The smaller gaps will have to be caulked at the bullnoses. You could add trim to the treads and risers, but it will look like an afterthought. 

Blow the dust out of the gaps. Then use masking tape about 1/8" off the wall on each stair tread and riser. This will provide straight clean lines for the caulk so it doesn't look like a mess. Remove the tape immediately after applying the caulk. You can re-tape to paint later if needed. 

I'd also suggest inserting foam backer rod into the joints before caulking.


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## JayBird

thekctermite said:


> I agree, you'll need to tape the larger gaps and feather out the tape several inches with drywall mud to hide it.
> 
> I'd also suggest inserting foam backer rod into the joints before caulking.


Do you mean something similar to foam weather stripping? Thats the only thing I can think of that would compress enough to get into the gaps.

I'm still up for any ideas for trim.... such as which type would look best.


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## Termite

Backer rod is like weatherstripping. It is essentially flexible foam dowel rod of various diameter sold in rolls, usually with the caulking.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

thekctermite said:


> Backer rod is like weatherstripping. It is essentially flexible foam dowel rod of various diameter sold in rolls, usually with the caulking.


I believe HD carries it with their concrete/masonry products.


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## Termite

Although it wouldn't conceal the nosing, you could cover the treads and the risers with some base cap. Here's base cap...It is the top piece on top of the 1x base in the pictures. 

In the 2nd picture, I mitered the end of it at 45* and returned it to the wall with a tiny mitered piece. Jeez, I need to fill the void in the wall right there. :whistling2:


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## JayBird

Your guy's advice is well appreciated. I put up more drywall today. It is hard to keep the gaps tight. Each stair tends to vary a little which means I have to go back and trim a little here, trim a little there. By that time the bull nose gaps get larger. 

I don't trust myself in finishing the drywall good enough where it won't be noticed. Maybe by the time I get to my last step I will be though


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## Stubbie

If you have a router table i see no reason why you could not make your own trim to fit the bull nose. Use 1/4 oak flat stock of appropriate width. Use a round over bit for one edge and a 3/4 spiral for the bull nose. The thickness of the tread will determine your spiral size.


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## Termite

Stubbie said:


> If you have a router table i see no reason why you could not make your own trim to fit the bull nose. Use 1/4 oak flat stock of appropriate width. Use a round over bit for one edge and a 3/4 spiral for the bull nose. The thickness of the tread will determine your spiral size.


Whew! That's some complicated woodworking, but it could be done by a competent woodworker. A template of the bullnose could be used with a bearing straight bit to cut the outer profile of the tread and then it could be rounded over.


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## Stubbie

Yep, that would work not everything has a caulk or tape and mud solution.... easy yes but those stairs need something better than that. I estimate cut out to be about 4 hours, if you have familiarity with a r-table. 2 days finish and stain (drying time) and steel wool. I'd give the trim a teak oil. Hate that poly stuff. Just a blink of time really, when you think about it. 


I have a friend who restores old international scouts, one took him five years but you should see that baby. Nice custom stairs I just couldn't caulk them or mud them.


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## buletbob

Say jaybird, I don't want to ran on your parade. But you should of posted before you installed your beautiful treads and risers. We could of saved you some head aches. you could of ran your drywall first then cut your steps to the proper angle and length. or you could of install a skirt board and marked each step with a scrap piece and then cut the skirt. which would of looked much nicer. From what I can see of your pictures, it appears that there is not any support for the drywall between the studs and stairs, or furring on the cinder block wall side. one kick and you will be back spackling. I feel the moulding will bring your eyes right to the problem. Its something not offten seen on stairs.I wished I could of helped you sooner. BOB


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## JayBird

buletbob said:


> Say jaybird, I don't want to ran on your parade. But you should of posted before you installed your beautiful treads and risers. We could of saved you some head aches. you could of ran your drywall first then cut your steps to the proper angle and length. or you could of install a skirt board and marked each step with a scrap piece and then cut the skirt. which would of looked much nicer. From what I can see of your pictures, it appears that there is not any support for the drywall between the studs and stairs, or furring on the cinder block wall side. one kick and you will be back spackling. I feel the moulding will bring your eyes right to the problem. Its something not offten seen on stairs.I wished I could of helped you sooner. BOB



I'm beating myself up over it. I don't know what I was thinking when I installed the treads first. I really thought (from other stairs I've seen) were trimmed out after installation. Now I'm realizing I messed up. 

Stubbie - I like your idea but I have to get access to a router table first. I'm really bummed, I figured this would all work out in the end.


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## buletbob

you can still fix the problem. If your going through all the hassle on getting a router table to make the moulding.. Why not just make two side skirt boards. You will spend more time but the finished product is what you were looking for anyway. BOB


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## JayBird

buletbob said:


> you can still fix the problem. If your going through all the hassle on getting a router table to make the moulding.. Why not just make two side skirt boards. You will spend more time but the finished product is what you were looking for anyway. BOB


Before I posted all this, I laid out a 1x12 marking out the stairs and was going to notch that like I'm notching the drywall. However that wasn't working out for me either. It seemed I was running out of board so to speak and things weren't lining up. The only way I think this would work is to cut one piece at a time very carefully and place over each step. (this is a recommendation I received as well) More drywall is going up in the next day or so. I am taking in ALL recommendations and advice and will really think about the next step. This last step is where its all at, so its gotta be good. Can't rush it.


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## st wright

*here's what I'd do:*

Drywall/caulking to stair treads is your quickest way out of the forest, no doubt, but that is a flawed solution for more reasons than I care to get into, and I think you know this. The good news, as I see it, you've got some sweet looking steps already and there's no safety issue at this point, so you can take your swet time on this project ...if you want to prevent the certain cosmetic and maintanance woes you are facing as is.

That said, here's what I would do: 
Whomever pointed out the "blocking" issue was correct, i think, - at least it appears that there is insufficient support for the sheetrock between furring strips.(The following suggestions are meant to apply to both sides...) 
First, snap a line on the wall from top to bottom a few inches over the steps. This line should be below where you would have your finished baseboard height .neatly remove all the good drywall work you've done below that line (and that was good work with the drywall, I must say) it will go back in as a furring layer, so save it... The goal here is to install continuous nailing for the wall and trim, but as long as you've got access to the profile of the staircase, why not take this opportunity to make a perfect cutting template for the baseboard you want to install, eh? See where IK'm going with this?...Ya pickin up what I'm puttin down here, chum? 
If possible, slide a continuous 12" high strip of thin (yet semi rigid) 
material like doorskin, inexpensive veneer or formica - whatever- along the entire stringer between the stairs and the block wall. Ideally, you want to trace it as one unbroken length, no bending, or in as few pieces as possible (a hot glue gun is a wonderfull asset for template making btw) and as accurately as possible and transfer the whole shebang onto primed MDF base shoe. This will become your custom fit, one piece baseboard to be installed after you get your blocking and drywall back together. Why MDF? because it's cheap, easy to cut, patch and repair, and you will be painting this anyway because it's probably going to look like frankenstein's underwear by the time you have it all installed. ("one easy piece" is the plan, but you know...) You can finish it with a decorative strip of "stain grade" cap moulding to match the stairs. 
On the baseboard, don't try for an airtight fit , -shoot for 1/8" consitent caulking joint all around and things will go way easier, trust me 
It's a lot of work, I know.
My other suggestion was to unscrew the lightbulb in the stairwell and go drink a beer.


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## Scuba_Dave

This thread is 2 years old


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