# Flooded crawl space after heavy rain insulation damage?



## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

So yea when it rains really heavy my crawl space can flood. The batt insulation in some areas is loose and hanging and it's not faced so I guess it got wet from condensation.

Question: Is the insulation trashed from the dampness in the crawl and needs to be replace or do I just fasten in back in place?

It kinda looks like this picture of the net.


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

First, get a respirator, then remove all that wet and molded insulation, bag it up and throw it away. Before you install the new insulation may I suggest a couple of tips; make sure you get some fans and dehumidifier down there and dry it all up really good. Treat any mold that may have grown on any wooded area with a solution of water and bleach. 

Second, check around the outside of the foundation to see if anything can be corrected like any loose or missing drain pipes/gutters. Try to have the water flow away from foundation, etc. 

Finally, I would install a sump pump in the lowest part of that crawl space so the water has a place to go when it does rain heavy like that to prevent a situation like this from happening again. After everything is dried out really good and the water infiltration is corrected, then put the new insulation in. Just a suggestion. 

Hope you get dried out soon and it stops raining kemper.


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## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

that, to me, is a "Mold Incubator".
when it warms up with no ventilation, anyone that enters
that space is putting their health at serious risk.
your priority should be:
#1 ~ get ahold of the flood water situation and fix it - pronto.
#2 ~ establish some kind of continuous fresh air flow - pronto.

and yes, in my very personal opinion, if your situation even slightly
resembles that one photo, ALL of the insulation is toast and should 
be removed A.S.A.P.

these are only our opinions and suggestions.
your house = your call.

.

.


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## APA (Jul 13, 2018)

You are going to find very few crawlspaces without mold. Wear a mask if it makes you feel better. Just remember that the advice on here is from guys who are not spending their own money. Get rid of the standing water, close the foundation vents except for one on each end. Put a 70-pint dehumidifier in the center of the space and two box fans in the far corners facing opposite directions to circulate the air in a circle. If you do not have a 6mil vapor barrier over the dirt, do this first as soon as the water soaks into the ground. Run the de-humidifier in continuous for 2 days. Re-assess after that. You will probably be surprised. Get rid of any insulation that has fallen. If it is sagging, you can get it back into place with insulation supports you can buy by the 100 at lowes for $15. However, you will need to figure out why the crawl is flooding and get that fixed. If you have mold or mildew on joists, just get under there an clean them wit mild bleach solution. Jus go a little at a time over the course of a few weeks as not to get frustrated. 



Source: Been there. I live in a humid area.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Fix the drainage problem first.


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## rjordan393 (Sep 15, 2010)

Take a close look at the perimeter walls in the crawl space and look for mineral deposits. If you see deposits, then part of the problem is water coming through the walls. This was pointed out to me by a home inspector while house hunting.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

A kinda looks like picture just will not do, as you don't know what the problem is, you don't know what picture to compare too.


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> A kinda looks like picture just will not do, as you don't know what the problem is, you don't know what picture to compare too.


Not really following you. The picture is a representation of similar conditions of my crawl space.

The issue is many but mainly the water infiltration causing damage and undesirable conditions under the house.

That said I'll post actual picture of the space.


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> A kinda looks like picture just will not do, as you don't know what the problem is, you don't know what picture to compare too.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Kemper100 said:


>


 The photos are not opening for me:sad:


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I'd say the insulation is dead, I don't think it's worth keeping moldy insulation in like any case. 

When you put new insulation in the floor joists, put on a vapor barrier to keep it out of the water in the future.

A sump pump would be a good idea, if you've a cement floor that makes it more difficult unfortunately.

Our basement is actually just a hair above the water table so it has constant water coming up through the dirt floor. Our floor has a huge continuous sheet of plastic and trenches that go into the sump pump that runs year round (even when it's 40*F below outside.) We put all of our stuff on pallets in case the sump pump goes out again - the first time it happened my husband lost his military keepsakes chest so we do the pallets now


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> The photos are not opening for me:sad:


I'm not too sure what happened...

:vs_whistle::vs_whistle::vs_whistle:


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Nealtw said:


> A kinda looks like picture just will not do, as you don't know what the problem is, you don't know what picture to compare too.


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Kemper100 said:


>


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

3rd times the charm on those photos. Once it gets overly dirty, mold can take to whatever grime is on it, especially ones touching the dirt and acting like sponges. Luckily batt insulation is pretty cheap. Start with getting the water problem solved outside and putting a vapor barrier over that dirt. Make sure you have proper ventilation. Tuck those flex ducts (don't know if sag or clearance routed) and wires tight to the joists then you can deal with the insulation.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The major clean up first, you still have wood forms around some concrete, that should not be there and the dirt need so to smoothed out if not levelled before poly is put down and sealed around obstacles and walls.


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## APA (Jul 13, 2018)

Get you a box of contractor trash bags and bag up all that junk and ruined insulation.


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## APA (Jul 13, 2018)

How old is this house? Looks like rough-cut lumber. Nothing wrong with it. Just interested.


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

APA said:


> How old is this house? Looks like rough-cut lumber. Nothing wrong with it. Just interested.


The property was built: 1920

:surprise::surprise::surprise:


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

APA said:


> Get you a box of contractor trash bags and bag up all that junk and ruined insulation.












:glasses::glasses::glasses:


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Kemper100 said:


> :glasses::glasses::glasses:


 I bet that was a fun job. 

For the water you really need a drain system around the perimeter, some inches lower than the dirt inside.


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Moar pics from today gravel bonanza...


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

*Are there spray foam insulation kits safety concerns*

If I wanted to pick up a kit and do it myself...I found this off the interwebs.

_"homeowners who are exposed to isocyanates and other spray foam chemicals in vapors, aerosols, and dust during or after the installation process "run the risk of developing asthma, sensitization, lung damage, other respiratory and breathing problems, and skin and eye irritation."_


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## ktownskier (Aug 22, 2018)

jmon said:


> First, get a respirator, then remove all that wet and molded insulation, bag it up and throw it away. Before you install the new insulation may I suggest a couple of tips; make sure you get some fans and dehumidifier down there and dry it all up really good. Treat any mold that may have grown on any wooded area with a solution of water and bleach.


This is all good information. Except for the water and bleach. Bleach doesn't do much against mold on porous materials. It works great in the kitchen and bathrooms where hard surfaces are abundant. 

Get a product designed for Mold Removal on all surfaces. There are several out there. Concrobium is one of the major names in mold remediation.

As others have said, first correct where the water is coming from. Otherwise anything else you do is moot. (You can take all of the insulation out, not just what looks wet. Get it ALL out as mold has probably already taken root) This goes for any standing water and the dirt that came with it. Who knows what is in the dirt. 

Once the source of the water intrusion has been taken care of, dry it out. Use fans, dehumidifiers, etc.. You can get a dehumidifier with a pump so that it can pump the water it collects to a sump or outside the house. 

As it is drying, you can spray all the areas to kill the mold and prevent it from coming back. This means the concrete, wood, metal, everything. Mold can grow on most anything as long as it has moisture and food. Even on metal if it has something on it that the mold likes. 

Once the mold killer has been applied according to directions, then you can put in new insulation. Consider using Mold and mildew proof insulation like rock wool (mineral wool) insulation. It is also fire proof.


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

Kemper100 said:


> *Are there spray foam insulation kits safety concerns*
> 
> If I wanted to pick up a kit and do it myself...I found this off the interwebs.
> 
> _"homeowners who are exposed to isocyanates and other spray foam chemicals in vapors, aerosols, and dust during or after the installation process "run the risk of developing asthma, sensitization, lung damage, other respiratory and breathing problems, and skin and eye irritation."_


Answer please!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:vs_mad: :vs_mad: :vs_mad:


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## Kemper100 (Sep 16, 2017)

3onthetree said:


> 3rd times the charm on those photos. Once it gets overly dirty, mold can take to whatever grime is on it, especially ones touching the dirt and acting like sponges. Luckily batt insulation is pretty cheap. Start with getting the water problem solved outside and putting a vapor barrier over that dirt. Make sure you have proper ventilation. Tuck those flex ducts (don't know if sag or clearance routed) and wires tight to the joists then you can deal with the insulation.


Surprisingly I don't see any evidence of mold...

:vs_whistle: :vs_whistle: :vs_whistle:


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