# Remodeling Bathroom: Old Drywall Thicker Than New Drywall Dilemma



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The factory edge is tapered for filling are you sure that is not what you are seeing.


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## JasonCA (Oct 5, 2010)

Nealtw said:


> The factory edge is tapered for filling are you sure that is not what you are seeing.


Great question. The old drywall was cut in the middle. You can see the white gypsum in the image shot at a 45 degree angle (old panel on the right side). And that seems to be a thicker than the new 1/2" thick drywall on the left side. I'm not sure what to do about this thickness difference?

Would I possibly have to put shimmies under the new drywall boards to match the old ones? Or?

And what to do about the old paint on the old drywall boards? How is that best removed? You can see the paint badly chipping in the images on the right side.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JasonCA said:


> Great question. The old drywall was cut in the middle. You can see the white gypsum in the image shot at a 45 degree angle (old panel on the right side). And that seems to be a thicker than the new 1/2" thick drywall on the left side. I'm not sure what to do about this thickness difference?
> 
> Would I possibly have to put shimmies under the new drywall boards to match the old ones? Or?
> 
> And what to do about the old paint on the old drywall boards? How is that best removed? You can see the paint badly chipping in the images on the right side.


 You should always measure what you have, If you hold a straight edge like a level against the old so it sticks over the new you will see the difference. If it's a big difference measure what you have stick an knife in the crack and mark the depth and you can measure that. If you have 5/8 on the wall, I would change it out or shim the studs. Others here will be able to help you deal with the finish on the old, I have never had to deal with that.


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## JasonCA (Oct 5, 2010)

Nealtw said:


> You should always measure what you have, If you hold a straight edge like a level against the old so it sticks over the new you will see the difference. If it's a big difference measure what you have stick an knife in the crack and mark the depth and you can measure that. If you have 5/8 on the wall, I would change it out or shim the studs. Others here will be able to help you deal with the finish on the old, I have never had to deal with that.


Consider it done. I will swap the 1/2 drywall out with 5/8 drywall: this way the new 5/8 drywall will match the old 5/8 drywall. It must be Firecode 5/8, but I will double check the thickness once I remove the old panel I used for testing. Your help has made my day! 

The only other problem I have is then how I deal with butting up hardibacker that is 1/2 thick to 5/8 thick drywall? Hmmm. Still can't win. 

Also, if anyone knows what to do about the old paint on the old drywall, that would be great? I'd like to rule out of the paint can be removed? Or, if the entire drywall with old paint on it must be replaced?


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Shim the cement board to match the drywall.
It generally doesn't make sense to try and strip paint from drywall. Usually scraping, a little sanding and a skim coat of joint compound will get it back looking like new.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

JasonCA said:


> Consider it done. I will swap the 1/2 drywall out with 5/8 drywall: this way the new 5/8 drywall will match the old 5/8 drywall. It must be Firecode 5/8, but I will double check the thickness once I remove the old panel I used for testing. Your help has made my day!
> 
> The only other problem I have is then how I deal with butting up hardibacker that is 1/2 thick to 5/8 thick drywall? Hmmm. Still can't win.
> 
> Also, if anyone knows what to do about the old paint on the old drywall, that would be great? I'd like to rule out of the paint can be removed? Or, if the entire drywall with old paint on it must be replaced?


Any kind of 1/8 thick plywood cut into strips behind the cement board on the studs will work.


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## JasonCA (Oct 5, 2010)

Please see attached image:










I'd like to point out the that the left end of the shower curb can be seen in the lower part of Panel #3. 

Earlier, NealTW kindly pointed out that I may have 5/8" on the wall. It is thicker than the 1/2", so for the sake of discussion I'll assume the original wall is 5/8" in the bathroom.

Considering I have only 1/2" drywall spare to play with at this point, I threw up Panel #4 which is only 1/2". As can be seen, it butts up with the 5/8" wall. I'll pick up 5/8" drywall, and then replace Panel #4 with 5/8" drywall as that will then solve making Panel #4 flush with the wall.

But, as to my main question: what is the technique that can be used to make the seams flush? 

*Looking at SEAM #5:*

For example, Panel #4 is currently 1/2" as shown in the image. If Panel #4 becomes 5/8", then it will be thicker than the 1/2" that butts up against it: which is SEAM #5 (both Panel #2 & Panel #3). How can I make the transition between 1/2" and 5/8" without it being too noticeable. 

My initial thought is that maybe it would be better to have a GAP between PANEL #4 and PANEL #1,2,3. In other words, to make SEAM #5 have a wide gap closer to what is shown at the bottom between PANEL #3 and PANEL #4. 

With a GAP, the thought would be that I could mud and tape it which will sort of allow for a gradient transition between the panels the wider the gap is. 

*Looking at SEAM #1:*

Looking at SEAM #1, PANEL #1 is 1/2" that butts up harshly to the original wall which is 5/8" drywall as there is no GAP. Since there is no GAP, this would result in a bump in the wall. 

Other ideas would be to shimmy parts of the panels, but then what parts should I shimmy?


*Other points of discussion:*

The hardiebacker runs quite a bit past the shower curb (shower curb shown in lower portion of Panel #3). Is there any suggestions that I should perhaps bring that back closer to the shower curb? In other words, should SEAM #5 fall closer over the shower curb, if so where? Or, would this not matter too much that PANEL #1,2,3 extend a bit past the shower curb?

Is there any suggestions how I can simplify this or make it a bit easier in terms of dealing with transitions? Or, is there any other ways I can improve this?


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

Looks like you have 5/8" drywall. 

If it's just a bathroom, rip all the old drywall out and do the whole thing - it'll just be a couple of extra sheets. And you're already going to be doing the mudding and all.

I think you'll be happier and have fewer areas to fudge.


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## 195795 (May 24, 2013)

Domo said:


> Looks like you have 5/8" drywall.
> 
> If it's just a bathroom, rip all the old drywall out and do the whole thing - it'll just be a couple of extra sheets. And you're already going to be doing the mudding and all.
> 
> I think you'll be happier and have fewer areas to fudge.


Yep - that's how you make it right Mike !


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