# Drywall paper face issue



## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

I would replace that and do it right. Sorry but that is just hack job. You need to do it correct.


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

replace it


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Time for new---------


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Ok... Wanted to avoid it if I could but if that's the right way so be it. Any good tips on how to make it look good? That's a 3x3.5' area and would essentially be but joints all the way around.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Remove the unpainted area---to the center of the nearest joist--or to the edge of the joist and then add a nailing strip---

replace the sheet--use 20 minute easy sand to fill any big gaps (if you have any)

Use paper tape---use multipurpose (green lid) to set the paper--that mud contains glue and will bond the best---

use the same mud for the first coat or two (powdered Easy sand could be used instead but is more difficult for a novice)---then use Light Weight (blue lid) for the final top coat--it's soft and easier to sand than bag mud or multi purpose--


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Gardz is made for damaged drywall like that. However that's really too big a gap you have there to be filled in with tape and joint compound, so you might as well redo it.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just going to have to end up with about a 12" wide tape seam to level it all out enough to not show.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Just my opinion but some gardz, easy sand, paper tape, mud, would be a lot easier than replacing those 2 sheets of dry wall.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Just my opinion but some gardz, easy sand, paper tape, mud, would be a lot easier than replacing those 2 sheets of dry wall.


That was my original thought



joecaption said:


> Just going to have to end up with about a 12" wide tape seam to level it all out enough to not show.


Ok



jeffnc said:


> Gardz is made for damaged drywall like that. However that's really too big a gap you have there to be filled in with tape and joint compound, so you might as well redo it.


That's why I was thinking of cutting a channel down the center of the gap and putting a strip of drywall in there. The water damage has not been kind to the drywall, nor has my hacking away at the joint. :laughing:



oh'mike said:


> Remove the unpainted area---to the center of the nearest joist--or to the edge of the joist and then add a nailing strip---
> 
> replace the sheet--use 20 minute easy sand to fill any big gaps (if you have any)
> 
> ...


Interesting comments on the green lid stuff. I've been using blue lid for most of my repairs since they are minor. Thanks.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Ok so now that I'm home I poked around a little more. Gardz is out. I wanted to measure the thickness of the drywall so I could pick up a sheet if I decided that was the route I wanted to go. The paper on the top of the drywall was done and a substantial chunk fell out of the ceiling that if I were a betting man probably had some mold on it. The upper surface of gypsum was exposed and had clearly seen better days. Looks like I'll be replacing the section.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

It's not that big of a job---because you do not have tapered edges---plan to feather that tape joint out about 20 to 24 inches----be patient---thin coats----thin----


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Yeah I learned the thin lesson while working in the laundry room. Would 1/2" drywall taper to about 3/8"?

I know I'm not getting tapered drywall for this project but I think what was there was tapered and why I got two different measurements.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The taper is about 3/8----back in the 1950s they did use 3/8 drywall on economy work---cut out a square and really check it--I do not know if it is still available-----


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

I thought 3/8" was a little thin so I did take out a chunk about a foot off the edge and it came in at 7/16". Considering that the paper mostly gone on both sides I think I"m good with 1/2"


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

To do all that it may be better to replace the 2 full sheets. Be sure to check the mold situation before you close it back up. Also double check the thickness in most areas 5/8" is code for ceilings.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

info2x said:


> I thought 3/8" was a little thin so I did take out a chunk about a foot off the edge and it came in at 7/16". Considering that the paper mostly gone on both sides I think I"m good with 1/2"


Sorry ceilings and I think that is your garage? Should be 5/8's. sheet rock comes in these thicknesses, 1/4 inch for cheapo moble homes, half inch for walls and 5/8 for ceilings and garages. There is no 7/16 sheetrock. Your making this harder then you have to tear out the hack job put in the new piece mud and tape. Done.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> To do all that it may be better to replace the 2 full sheets. Be sure to check the mold situation before you close it back up. Also double check the thickness in most areas 5/8" is code for ceilings.


I was thinking 5/8" but what I have by all measurements is 1/2". I picked some up this evening and will put it up tomorrow after I pull out the insulation and re-install a vapor barrier since the foil faced vapor retarder looks beat.



Nailbags said:


> Sorry ceilings and I think that is your garage? Should be 5/8's. sheet rock comes in these thicknesses, 1/4 inch for cheapo moble homes, half inch for walls and 5/8 for ceilings and garages. There is no 7/16 sheetrock. *Your making this harder then you have to tear out the hack job put in the new piece mud and tape. Done.*


Nope not a garage just a bedroom. You have no idea... Good thing the wife it out of town this weekend. :laughing:


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

This question probably belongs in the insulation subforum but I didn't want to start another thread if I didn't have to.

I cleaned up the ceiling and have a nice square hole. I removed the insulation that was affected by the water (which came from either the plumbing vent or the hole in the roof for the vent both of which do not currently leak.



As you can see the original insulation is foil/kraft paper for facing. I would assume just throwing regular kraft faced insulation up there wouldn't be an issue, but should I be putting some of the radiant barrier first and then unfaced insulation on top?

Here is the damaged insulation if you were curious


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Standard craft paper insulation with the paper facing the room,will be fine---

Did it turn out to be 1/2" drywall?
1/2" is code for ceilings around here----except in Chicago---where 5/8" is required.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Ok.

Yeah 1/2" drywall.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Progress!



It's not that pretty and I couldn't find a stud for the one side so I put a piece of ply up there and secured it. I must have read my tape wrong because that same gap is wider than I was expecting. I'll put some setting compound in there tomorrow.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Well you certainly aren't lacking for screws, ha ha. But too many is better than not enough on a ceiling.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Yeah I know I put a lot in. I discovered a what a screw dimpler was today so I had to use it.

When I removed the old drywall the fasteners (standard nails, not ring shank) were 20" OC, no wonder I was getting nail pops.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Ok hot mud is up and now that everything is clean is probably close to set. How long should I be waiting until I but the green top on with tape? I know once the easy sand is set it still technically isn't dry, should I be waiting a good long while for the joint to completely dry?

Why don't I think of these questions earlier?

Side note: that hot mud stuff is pretty cool asides from having to mix it myself which was a pain since it is my first time with it. Otherwise I found it really cool to work with.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

You can put the top coat on any time the bottom coat is set. But you have to wait for the whole thing to dry before sanding or painting.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

Ok. I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't going to be some weird interaction between the two types of mud (premix vs setting). I'll do that tonight since it's a nice day here to work outside.


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

I just wanted to follow up with everyone since I've now finished the ceiling. Have to paint the walls now.



The actual drywall work didn't take too long (been busy with other things) although I did end up having to have a pretty wide joint. Overall it came out really well. I can see the patch if I stare at the ceiling while directly underneath it and even then is mainly a texture difference more than anything else.

Thanks again for the help guys.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Good job. This is how DIY stories are supposed to go.....you jump in with both feet....ask questions...get answers...get it done....

Is it as good as a pro? Maybe. Did it take you longer than a pro? Yep. Do you have a lot of satisfaction doing it yourself? Oh, hell yea.

Next time there won't be any questions....you will know what to do.

Doesn't it feel good?


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## info2x (Aug 19, 2012)

It feels damn good. Now if it wasn't so damn cold I'd paint the rest of the room.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

sweet Job! glad it all turned out so nice.


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