# Basement Shower Drain Problem!



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

I have found that I have to install a rubber boot to convert the cast iron pipe to PVC after consulting a plumber. I plan on renting a power hammer/chisel to break the concrete away from the pipe and attach the boot. Since I am renting the tool I am debating on breaking up the shower curb and build a bigger one. Or would it be easier to build around the existing curb that is already there?


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

:jester:guess im talkin to myself


----------



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

I'd say that you're going to have a heck of a time getting a Fernco boot to work there, especially with that particular drain. The drain is going to sit too high. My advice would be to demolish the existing mud base and couple onto the pipe beneath the slab with a Fernco. That way you can re-do the trap as well and you're not covering up old pipes under the shower...They just get older! Now's the time to do it right.

As for the curb, you could add to what is there, which appears to be nothing at all. A curb can be formed up and placed against the existing mud base. I'd suggest a few tapcons protruding from the base to act as dowels to pin the two together. Doing a curb against the existing base will require you to use Kerdi to waterproof the curb and the shower and the transition between the two. Personally I'd do that no matter what anyway.

Whether you choose to do a new curb or a new base or both, be sure you do your research about placing mud bases and the necessary waterproofing. They're not poured like conventional concrete, they're a very dry mix that is packed in place. Tile/grout is not waterproof, so a membrane is 100% necessary.


----------



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Is the shower wall CMU block? The foundation? :laughing: You need Kerdi for sure!


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

Yes they had the shower wall as block that was tiled on top! My plan is to demolish the cement around the pipe down to the trap and place the boot on the pipe and re-cement around it. I plan on renting one of those power chisels or hammers from home depot to do this. Once I get deep enough I plan on cutting the pipe with a sawz it all to allow for room to fit the pipe and add the pvc.

I was going to put cement board around the walls and then build onto the existing base of what is already there. Meaning place the shower liner/membrane on top of the existing concrete and then mud on top of that to create the correct slop. I will also build up the existing curb that is already there. I checked on the Kerdi system and since my drain is offset I don't think that will work for me (also seems very pricey). Any other concerns or suggestions? Thanks for your help. I will continue to post pics as the project continues.


----------



## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

The kerdi drain and membrane system will work for you just fine...what will not work is the pre-made, pre-sloped pan. It doesn't sound like you're headed the Kerdi route...but if you do...you won't have to put cement board up...


----------



## metx (Dec 24, 2008)

get a cast iron shower drain fit in tight spots and tighten from the top


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

Well i decided to demo some of the concrete around the pipe after renting a power chisel from HD. It was suggested that I replace the trap while I have the area opened up anyways, so I will be attempting this. I have zero plumbing experience but this is how I assume I will do it. cut the current cast iron pipe just before it slopes into the trap and put a rubber boot on it, and connect to the pvc trap?

My question is that this cast iron trap looks like a monster as it is huge. The pvc traps I have seen are not even half the size. The cast iron pipe looks like it is about 4'' in diameter, although i havent measured it cause I have not cut into it. So do they make a 4'' cast iron to 2'' PVC? Also I was thinking of centering the drain a little better then when it was originally installed. How hard will this be??


----------



## metx (Dec 24, 2008)

that looks like a 2in trap to me .are you talking about the main drain?


----------



## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Inspect that p trap before you go through the trouble of removing and changing it. I can't see much of it in the picture but what I see looks fine.


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

No, I was talking about the main line comming into the trap. I was going to put a boot on top of the main line then tie in a new pvc drain but it would still sit too high. So my solution is to cut it at the main line and install pvc from there into a new trap. What do you think?


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

cleveland1980 said:


> No, I was talking about the main line comming into the trap. I was going to put a boot on top of the main line then tie in a new pvc drain but it would still sit too high. So my solution is to cut it at the main line and install pvc with a boot from there into a new trap. What do you think?


Calling Plumber 101 for help!


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

Decided to cut the main line and tie in pvc trap, hope it works as I have no clue what I am doing!


----------



## cleveland1980 (Feb 25, 2009)

OK I REALLY need some help on this I cut the main line right before the trap and used a franco clamp to convert from 3'' cast iron to 2'' pvc. I then ran about 2'' straight line of pvc to a 45 degree piece and then to the trap. I put the drain on and thought that everything was good till I poured water down the drain. It drains extremley slow to the point that it overflows. 

Not sure if this is because I added the 45 degree angle or the new pvc trap? My questions is why is the water flowing so slow and what can I do to correct it. I had to add the 45 degree piece becuase they did not have the drain centered correctly. If I use 3'' pvc instead of 2'' will this correct the problem? Or do I have to live with where they put the drain and take out the 45 degree piece and just go straight from the main line to the new trap and then drain? If you can give me some tips please help, I am a noob at this. If this helps this drain is tied into the toliet as well.


----------



## donutboy (Jan 28, 2010)

OMG you're scaring me Cleveland. My shower stall was molding so I also tore it out thinking it would be soooo easy to rebuild. I was wrong! I've just finished demolition like you, but i haven't dismantled the top part of the drain pipe.

The old plumber pretty much built a cement slope on cement ground and I was hoping that I could use a kerdi adaptor to attach on to it. But my problem is that the original builder pretty much tarred the whole area and put a pvc liner on top of the cement slope. I dont know if I can remove the pvc liner cleanly enough out the tar cleanly to attach the kerdi adaptor using kerdi-fix (glue) and hope that water does not leak out..

I will post a pic of my shower stall later. The part about the water draining very slowly sucks... are you sure ur pipe isn't clogged? Also, u know the horizontal piping right before the trap? Well, your drain has to stand like, above that horizontal piping. It's gravity that pulls the water down the pipe, meaning that there will always be water in your trap, because it sits below the horizontal piping.

Good luck, let me know on your progress. I will probably start a thread of my own too.


----------



## rh8868 (Jan 15, 2009)

I'm definitely a plumbing novice, not a plumbing expert. I'm not sure but don't basement drain lines require a 1/4" downward slope per foot, the same as anyother horizontal run of drain? See attached crude drawing. Maybe as donutboy mentioned, you have the drain horizontal or maybe even slightly upward sloping, making it drain very slowly at best. Good luck, and surely get more opinions on this!


----------

