# Getting baseboard and casing trim from lumberyard?



## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

I'm remodeling a room, and I've decided that I'm going to use large rectangular straight trim because that's what's modern and in style. Most of my room is your standard 8' ceiling height, with the living room being vaulted (and the 5.5" high trim still looks "correct" in there). 

I found 1x6's primed pine at Lowes that will work perfectly for baseboard for the whole house. Actual size is .75"x5.5". It's really not "quite" .75" either, more like .65".

Anyhow, for door casings, I would want something thicker than .75"/.65". I'm not sure if there's a magic formula for how much thicker, but I'm guessing 1/8-1/4" thicker would look correct. Problem is, 1" exact thickness is not a common size, so there's no way to get something like that at a big-box store.

Basic question as I've never dealt with a lumber yard, but I'm assuming I could walk right in and ask them to cut me, let's say 20 feet of .85x3 exactly if I wanted to, correct? For the top casings, I probably would want something thicker, so then I could also ask for 1.00x4...

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I'd rather be made fun of here than at the lumberyard.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

While a sawmill will custom cut lumber for you a typical lumber yard won't. There are shops that will custom mill trim for you - check the yellow pages. A cheaper option would be to use standard casing but install a backer to bring it out. I'd consider using plywood with a wood band to hide the ply.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Thanks! Sounds like I need to head to a millhouse.

I'm only remodeling a bedroom, so we're not talking about too much wood that I'll need, so hopefully it won't be that expensive. Maybe 16 foot of top casing, and 18 foot of side casing. 

I'm supposing this is exactly what builders do due to the modern "large" "plank" trim style?


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've painted several custom homes where the builder had most of the woodwork custom milled. Don't know the cost but I'm sure it isn't cheap.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Is a 1/4" reveal typically referred to as the standard for casings/molding?

So if my baseboard is 1" (.75" actual).......

I should go with 1.00" actual for the side casings...

And 1.25" actual for the top casings....

Just making sure that's "architecturally" correct because I have one chance to get it right if I get this stuff cut. I think a staggered looks looks simple, clean, and fancy. 

You don't HAVE to stagger the side and top casings, but it looks pretty nice when you do.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I think it's closer to 1/8" thicker for the casing versus the base but don't remember for sure. Most of the woodwork in my house came from the sawmill and I used a planer and router to make the trim .... so mine isn't standard. But it isn't like there is a set rule, just need to satisfy you, yours and any potential buyer.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

kawahonda said:


> Is a 1/4" reveal typically referred to as the standard for casings/molding?
> 
> So if my baseboard is 1" (.75" actual).......
> 
> ...


You should find a photo of what you have in mind and post it.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Attached is a rough drawing.

Once I figure out how big the reveal should be, then I'll know exactly how deep to request the cut to be.

Either 1/8 or 1/4. I'm not sure what builders use when using the plank-style trim in modern homes.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

kawahonda said:


> Attached is a rough drawing.
> 
> Once I figure out how big the reveal should be, then I'll know exactly how deep to request the cut to be.
> 
> Either 1/8 or 1/4. I'm not sure what builders use when using the plank-style trim in modern homes.




I always use 5/8" base and 3/4" casing.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

That implies a 1/8" reveal. Looks like there's already two votes for 1/8". I'll plan on doing that for both the baseboard to side casing depth distance, and side casing to top casing distance.

You guys think that would look good?


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Here's another question for you guys...and I know it's a question of style more than anything.

For the window in this room due to the small space, I went with 2.5" casings. I underhung the bottom casing by 1/4", I just thought it looked much better than making it square. Optimally, I'd have gone with 3" side casings (which is definitely a plan for everything else) to make it consistent when I start the rest of the house, but for poke-out window spaces like these, the fiancee demanded no bigger than 2.5". 

Anyhow, when I get to the door casings, the question is how much _over_hang do I want on the top casing? If I make the bottom casings 1/4" from here on out, should I double that on the top casing, or should I match it?

I know, it's a style question, but I'm curious on your guy's take.

So happy the crappy 2 1/4" trim is getting removed (last picture). I hate this stuff, with a passion. The whole has uses this for all trim. It's WAY out of style.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

If you want wood casing that is an actual 1 inch thick, you can get it at most lumber yards or millworks. It's called four quarter aka 4/4.
As far as cost, I've found that all three of my local lumberyards sell better trim boards for less than the big box stores. Not sure why that is, but it's always been that way around here. 
I know everyone's got an opinion, but having trimmed out quite a few homes there are some combos that always look good. Have you considered using a 4/4 x 3 1/4" x 5.5" tall plinth block at the bottom of the door and then using the same 3/4" thick 3" casing up to a 4/4 header? That will give you consistent 1/4" reveals while matching the top's thickness to the plinth block and avoiding making the top look too big like it's going to topple off.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

Oops! I forgot to mention that you can also make that plinth block a quarter inch taller than the base to give you a little roundover room.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Hmm, good idea. I haven't considered using plynth blocks. I wonder if it's starting to get a little too fancy, though. I totally understand how it would simplify the amount of lumber modifications necessary, as well as assuring that the top casing isn't too thick. _However_, I still can't get 3" wide boards at the big box store, so I'd still have to go to a lumber mill to get that. So if I'm already doing that....

The problem is with this style of basic rectangular wood, you're stuck to with the common 1x3, 1x4, and 1x6 sizes. That's 2.5", 3.5", and 5.5" respectfully. The girlfriend thinks 3.5" is too big for the casings, and we both think 2.5" is too skinny. So 3" seems to be the optimal size needed.

Seems like you're voting on 1/4" reveals. Others have stated 1/8" reveals. I'm having a couple friends measure out their reveals (they have the same exact style that I'm going with) and all add that to the data pool. :wink2:

If if it should be 1/4" reveals, and being that my baseboard measures .65" actual thickness (I'm assuming all additional boards that I would get at Lowe's would be the same actual thickness), I would request that the side casings be .90", and the top casings be 1.15". The question is, is 1.15" too thick for a top casing? It doesn't seem that it would be.

If 1/8" reveals are what I should shoot for, and being that my baseboard is .65" actual thickness, I would request that the side casings be .80", and the top casings be .95". You can probably get by with just an even 4/4, or an "inch" exactly on the top case. An inch doesn't seem too thick at all for a top case, but I'm not as experienced as you!

Let me know if I'm making sense? Thanks for thinking it through with me. I'm a noob to this stuff, just trying to do due diligence in planning.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Most of the casing in my house is 3" with the baseboards being 5" all made from sawmill lumber run thru my planer and router. I have plinth blocks in the living rm and dining rm. Those were made from pieces of 2x4 with 3 edges routed. The base/casing sits just below the routed profile.

If standard lumber is too wide you can rip it down with a table saw. If you don't own a table saw you might consider this as an excuse to get one :biggrin2:


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

kawahonda said:


> Hmm, good idea. I haven't considered using plynth blocks. I wonder if it's starting to get a little too fancy, though.


Nope. If you keep clean lines you'll still have a sleek look even with these changes. Draw it out or make a mockup and see what you think.
You were already planning to break the line with the change in thickness from the base, so the plinth just allows you to do that in a more conventional way. 



kawahonda said:


> I still can't get 3" wide boards at the big box store, so I'd still have to go to a lumber mill to get that.


You don't need to find a lumber mill. That's just silly. Any decent lumber yard or millwork shop will have a wider, better, and often cheaper selection. If they don't, you can just cut it to any size you want. ...or have it cut by any friend with a table saw. 



kawahonda said:


> Seems like you're voting on 1/4" reveals. Others have stated 1/8" reveals.


Not really voting on anything exactly. Just making suggestions for you to look at before you commit to a style for the whole house. As you play around with this stuff, you'll find dimensions that look good to you and work with the size of material and where it is placed. Sometimes a 1/8 reveal works, sometimes you want 1/4 and sometimes you want that 1/8 off the jamb and 1/4 at your head casing. 



kawahonda said:


> If if it should be 1/4" reveals, and being that my baseboard measures .65" actual thickness (I'm assuming all additional boards that I would get at Lowe's would be the same actual thickness), I would request that the side casings be .90", and the top casings be 1.15". The question is, is 1.15" too thick for a top casing? It doesn't seem that it would be.


IMO, yeah. Anytime you make the head casing that much bigger than the base you run the risk of making it look top heavy. Base is called base because it should look like a base/foundation that you could build on. If your base is thin and your casing thicker and your head casing is thicker still, then you're going to wind up with a big difference between the head casing and the base which makes it look top heavy. The plinth block lets you provide a visually thicker foundation and then use the same thickness casing as your base molding. The head casing can then be the same thickness as the plinth and you have consistent reveals that look well supported. I know your head casing isn't going to fall over, but it's just a visual thing that people process subconsciously when looking at the proportions. There's a lot of thought on this proportioning that went into trim details on classical buildings that seems to be lost on a lot of the builders these days. 
There's a really good book about all this called Get Your House Right: Architectural Elements to Use & Avoid by Marianne Cusato that goes into the details of what looks right and wrong and why. Maybe more than what you need for this project, but it's a good read and good knowledge to have if you want to do more of this stuff and do it right. 



kawahonda said:


> Let me know if I'm making sense? Thanks for thinking it through with me. I'm a noob to this stuff, just trying to do due diligence in planning.


We were all noobs at this at one point. I'm just glad you're taking the time to get input and thinking it through before just busting it out. I've seen (and dismantled) far too many instances of impulsive poor judgement to count.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Killer response. I cannot thank you enough for that.

You've gotten be interested in Plyths. It's just another peice of molding, that's it.

Seems like this would be what I would want?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/House-of-Fara-7-8-in-x-3-1-2-in-x-6-in-Pine-Plinth-Block-P356P/100059131

That would have a reveal of 1/4" from baseboard and side casings.

Potential negatives:

It will stand 1/2" taller than baseboard. I suppose that can be easily cut down with my miter, though. 

It will stand 1/2" wider than casings. that cannot be cut down due to the design of it. Well, you could, but you will lose a routed edge. To keep the door jam reveal consistent, It would be installed to be right justified on the jam along with the side casings.

I'd have to sketch it up.

It has a design with a routed edge, while all other of my casings/baseboard are just simple 90 degree cuts. This probably is A-OK and will still look good, but I'm just checking with you to make sure. 

Unless you are suggesting to make my own plynths. If so, what measurements would you do?

The one I linked is 7/8 x 3.5 x 6

Thanks again for your continued help. Doing it this way would keep my top casing to .90" if I wanted to keep 1/4 reveals all around.

I need to look into plinths more and see what recommended proportions are. Are they supposed to match the baseboard and side casing height/width?


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've always seen plinth blocks a tad wider than the casing and a little taller than base. Not sure there is a right/wrong answer as to how much taller.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Be careful with the margins/reveals using plinth blocks.
The Plinth itself needs a reveal and the casing on top also needs a reveal.
If you give the plinth a 1/8 reveal and the casing another 1/8 where it lands on the Plinth, it becomes a quarter inch up the casing. That might affect the top measurements too, depending on your design.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

kawahonda said:


> Unless you are suggesting to make my own plynths. If so, what measurements would you do?


I tend to wind up making my own plinths since I'm usually matching some existing trim in the house, but there's nothing wrong with buying them ready made if the dimensions and profiles are a good fit. In this case you were looking at doing this to get a cleaner lined updated look. Not so sure that edge detail on the one you linked will match your vision. Maybe a slight rounding, or easing of the edge on the plinth would be more in line with your original vision?
Flat stock doesn't have to be routed to get a roundover or profile. You can do a slight easing of the edge with a hand plane and sandpaper or with a random orbit sander and different grits of sandpaper. 
I don't want to dictate the exact reveal size or the dimensions to you. Make something that you think looks right, and try a few things on paper or on mockups before you decide. The basic principles apply with different dimensions and you'll find that certain ratios will look good.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

I opened the door jam reveal to what I typically see in new houses. It was at 1/8, but I opened it to 1/4, or half-way of the jam. Looks spectacular.

I like your thinking. My first thought is I need basic, 90-degree cut, basic plinth block. No beveled edges or routed lines. That's how to match it perfectly with the rest of the trim, but asking for that style of plinth block is non-existent. 

Sounds like I should go to the lumbermill and get a sheet of 3/4" pine. With that, I can make my own plinths. If sharp edges don't work well, then I can do what you say and smooth it a bit. I can't help but to think that if the rest of the trim is 90 degree cuts, there should be no reason why the plinth should differ....

I did some drywall work to replace that ugly trim that sat above the sliding closet that "hid" the hardware. My idea was to fill it in with drywall. I plan to run side casing and a top casing on this as well, and just terminate the top casing at the corner with no right side casing to let that right wall (which is 14') breathe. Should I reveal the same as I would a door jam, or do things differently being that trim is going directly on drywall? I would probably plinth it, like a door. Could be another case of hold it up and take a look 

My dad used plinths in his house for a few of his doors. He basically lined the plinth up with the edge of the jam (no reveal with plinth and jam) and then have the casings have reveal with the jam.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Room color (light grey with darker grey on long wall).

Window trim that I completed. Gotta love the look of square degree trim. Creates beautiful and clean shadows.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

3-1/2" casing is not too big. I like an even 4" casing but it's not available for cheap. I trimmed out a whole house and made all my own 4" and it looked great but waaaaay too much work. 

When using plinths, I custom make them 7/8" thick.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

kawahonda said:


> I opened the door jam reveal to what I typically see in new houses. It was at 1/8, but I opened it to 1/4, or half-way of the jam. Looks spectacular.


Sounds good!



kawahonda said:


> I like your thinking. My first thought is I need basic, 90-degree cut, basic plinth block. No beveled edges or routed lines. That's how to match it perfectly with the rest of the trim, but asking for that style of plinth block is non-existent.


That's because it's just a block at that point. You just need to find the flat stock in your desired thickness. 
You're going to want to sand the edges a little bit on the plinths. You don't have to round them over, but just ease the edge so it's not razor sharp. That'll make the paint hold the edge better and won't hurt as much if you stub your toe in the middle of the night.



kawahonda said:


> Sounds like I should go to the lumbermill and get a sheet of 3/4" pine. With that, I can make my own plinths. If sharp edges don't work well, then I can do what you say and smooth it a bit. I can't help but to think that if the rest of the trim is 90 degree cuts, there should be no reason why the plinth should differ....


Lumberyard, not mill. You don't want fresh sawn trees.



kawahonda said:


> I did some drywall work to replace that ugly trim that sat above the sliding closet that "hid" the hardware. My idea was to fill it in with drywall. I plan to run side casing and a top casing on this as well, and just terminate the top casing at the corner with no right side casing to let that right wall (which is 14') breathe. Should I reveal the same as I would a door jam, or do things differently being that trim is going directly on drywall? I would probably plinth it, like a door. Could be another case of hold it up and take a look


For the closet, it might look a little weird to have a piece of trim just die off into a wall. The cleanest look here might be to just leave it as a drywall edge all around.
The other option, and the one that I see most often is to make a stubby little wall that is just wide enough to take the trim and leave a 1/2" or so in the corner. 



kawahonda said:


> My dad used plinths in his house for a few of his doors. He basically lined the plinth up with the edge of the jam (no reveal with plinth and jam) and then have the casings have reveal with the jam.


Yep. That's the way I do 'em too. If you're using a 1/4" reveal and 3" casing, then the plinth is 3 1/2" wide to give a nice balanced reveal on both sides.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

I sketched out the room and measured all angles with a protractor (because I'm lame).

I actually think I will be able to rip the 3.5" width board to 3.0" with my circular saw, using blocks and clamps. It'll be a super straight cut. Just takes some prep time. I have a super nice blade on my circular saw too, it's 
a 110T. I think when I do the whole house, that's when it makes sense to step up to the table saw! Hard to justify buying a table saw for just making a couple of side casings though.

As far as the 7/8" sheet (to make my plinths) as well as the top 7/8" trim piece that's 4" tall, then I'm going to have to get that at the lumbermill as Uncle Bob suggests.

I'll follow uncle bob's advice and make em 3.5" wide. Bob, how tall would you make them being that they are butting up against 5 1/2" baseboard?

Finally got a stand for this thing last night on Craigslist. This miter saw is pimp.


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Uncle bob, could use more of your magic.

I ripped a 3.5" wide board to a 3.0" board with my circular saw. Took me about 10 minutes of setup to make sure I got an even cut. Wow, talk about luck. I would use this as the final trim!

Here's what it all looks like together.

7/8" thick plinth, 6" tall, and 3.5" wide.
baseboard actual size is .65", 5.5" tall.
Casing actual size is .65", 3'0" wide.

What changes would you make to the plinth? If that looks good, then I'll just get a sheet of 7/8" and make my own without the routing.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Looks good from here.
What are you going to use as a head casing?


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

I'm thinking a 4" tall board, 7/8" thickness (same as plinths) and let it overhang some.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Will the top of the base get a cap or be routed? The wider the top is the more it's prone to have dust or whatever set on it.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

Looking good. One thing you might want to play around with is the height of the plinth. Since you're looking for a cleaner smoother look, try making the plinth the same height as the base. Of course, this might not look great but it might also resolve a little cleaner and bring less attention to itself especially if you're making your own plinth that won't have a dressed up edge like the one in the photo.
...and clean up that end cut on your base!


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Cool, thanks for the reply. The girlfriend wants to try the plinth thicker and taller. IMO, proportions won't be correct. You could make it a tad thicker, but not so sure about taller. Either leave it like it is, or bring it to same height as baseboard IMO. It's not just a decision for this room, but one for the whole house. We'll play around with more options. 

Got tired of using my rotary sander and just called the subfloor good enough after 4-5 hours of sanding and screwing around with a 6' yard stick.

Flooring goes in Sunday. Then I'm forced to start making drastic decisions on the trim! Off to the "Lumberyard" on Monday. Will ask for a a couple planks of pine @ 1", and a small 8" plank of pine at 7/8". 

I'm also going to bring them a 2.5" pine piece and have them rip it to 2.0".

Lastly, I will ask for a 3/8" thick pine piece at 3.0" wide.

Those are not unreasonable requests, are they? Should I expect an arm and a leg?

We held the trim pieces on the closet. We think it'll look good to just trim it like a door. But yeah, it will vanish on the top. I'm still not totally convinced, but there is a really neat look to it.

PS: Unclebob, don't worry about that cut. That was Lowe's cut, not mine.  I'm a perfectionist, so no worries!


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

My plinth blocks are about 1" taller and about 3/8" thicker than my base and casing which looks good to me. Won't hurt anything to mock up different configurations until you find what tickles your fancy.

For what's worth, while you can't beat a better cut/fit I've made a lot of lesser skilled carpenters look great with caulking and paint.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

mark sr said:


> For what's worth, while you can't beat a better cut/fit I've made a lot of lesser skilled carpenters look great with caulking and paint.


You've never heard this old saying? "Caulk and paint make me the carpenter I ain't!"


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> You've never heard this old saying? "Caulk and paint make me the carpenter I ain't!"


I've heard that saying since I was an apprentice but it was always a painter saying it, never heard a carpenter admit it :biggrin2:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> You've never heard this old saying? "Caulk and paint make me the carpenter I ain't!"


I have sure seen a bunch that needed to say that, I think some used a chainsaw to cut miters with. I also made my plinths about an inch taller and about 1/4 inch thicker, most I made like the picture below, because it helped a little on the door opening, too thick and the door will hit it when opened all the way back.

I installed the plinth flush with the trim on the inside and let the back side (thicker side) show a good 1/4 inch reveal beyond the casing.

Good grief, I didn't notice the picture, like I said, some looked like they cut trim with a chainsaw. LOL


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## kawahonda (Apr 20, 2015)

Welp, finished the flooring, molding, and most of the calkiing. Still need to paint the door casings.

Came out pretty well. I'll send a final shot later, but here's were things are. I think I nailed it. We made the plinths wider. I bought a planar and planed my own 7/8 casing. Bottom plinths are 1 1/8", so about a 1/4" reveal, and top casing is 7/8", 1/8" reveal. Looks wonderful I think.

I take pride in my caulking skills! 

Not much to caulk at all. I was surprised at how well all the angles turned out.


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