# Garage Epoxy Floor - Mess Up



## RWolff (Jan 27, 2013)

> Question is, how could I fix it?
> I can think of 3 potential ways.
> 
> 1. I did not apply a clear top coat. If I do, think it will create consistency in the shininess? What I gather from what I read is I do not sand it since it's a new install.
> ...




Or #4:

leave it alone, it's a stupid floor in the garage for petes' sake, not your formal dining room table!
In two months you won't tell the difference anyway when mud and dirt from the cars, skuffs from shoes, dirt and dust get on it.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

I would, but it's more noticeable than that.
Since I am someone who would take the time to put epoxy paint on my garage floor with freaking sprinkles, it would be reasonable to assume I would like it to look good.
Thank you for the thought. It would be easiest just to let it be, but I would like to fix it.

Anyone else have thoughts?

cheers,
Blake


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Rich--I'm going to move this to 'paint'----there you will get solid answers---Mike----


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Check the spec sheet on your epoxy. A lot of epoxy has a window of time ( a number of days) in which it can be recoated. If the window is closed, you will need to abrade, or take other steps before re coating. If not, you can just put a clear on to even out the sheen. Make sure the clear is compatible with the epoxy you used.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

B Rich said:


> Since I am someone who would take the time to put epoxy paint on my garage floor with freaking sprinkles, it would be reasonable to assume I would like it to look good.


Exactly. I don't know what Wolff was thinking. Anyway, I would think the poly cover would even out the sheen.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Great replies.
I was outside the window.
I've got about a dozen one foot long, paintbrush (4inches) wide dull spots around the floor.
And a vote (response) for...
Top coat will even it out
And
Top coat will cause the spots to still show.

How about trying to top coat just the spots. Let that dry. Then top coat the whole floor?

Thank you all for the help so far!
Blake

P.s. any recommendations on a good top coat to get (not looking to start a brand war. Just some recommendations...


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

What "lightning" struck you? What type of epoxy did you use, one part, two part? If you mixed it right, why would the touch ups be duller? Can you just "whip" up some epoxy and touch-up? I think you need to tell us some more and discuss this a little further before you go compounding something. Besides, a clear will add sheen, but it will also show and enhance whatever sheen is already there. It might reduce the differences you have now but it's not going to eliminate them.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

I used Rustoleum epoxy for garages. Tan color.
Once you mix part A and Part B you have 2 hours of pot time to paint the floor. Where the hardened and other components will be of the appropriate liquid form to use as paint.
I had some part A and Part B still mixed together the next day that I used to touch up about a dozen spots on the floor as described above...
The lightning that struck, is that once these touch ups dried I realized that I had used the epoxy well beyond it's pot time. And that is why these areas dried dull. Where the rest of the floor dried shiny.
So, Lightning = this realization. Think light bulb going off...

At this point I am thinking of getting and mixing another part A and B of the same rustoleum. Lightly covering the dull spots. Then once it has dried, adding a clear top coat to the entire floor. I believe this will give me the best shot at evening the appearance out.

Unless there is an easier way someone can think of?

Also, can flecks be added to clear top coat?

Thank you to Everyone who has taken the time to read through this!
Blake


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Attached is a picture for reference.
Blake


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

First off, something like a clear poly is never going to stick for long to an epoxy resin so don't even think of it to even out the sheen. You will be picking up chunks of poly on your car tires within first contact. 

Curing epoxy involves more heat than people realize in the chemical reaction that cures it. Many have found out the hard way mixing epoxy or polyester resin in a plastic cup only to find the cup melts. This is more noticeable, perhaps, with two part epoxy but it is there with one part as well. You may be seeing a difference in sheen because the heat from the catalytic reaction in your second/repair coat has transferred down into the first coat. As the heat dissipates, the surface MAY repair itself, at least to the point where it does not bother you so much. You may also have changed the structure of the base coat with the added catalytic reaction if you applied it too soon. 

I think you have to wait this out for at least the recommended cure time on the product label? Perhaps there is a window where you can coat the whole thing before waiting for it to cure. I do not know the product you used well enough to advise. Call their customer support line. I think you mentioned Rustoleum? I have heard they are helpful. You are no doubt not the first person to face this!

If it comes to the point where you have to clear coat it? I am guessing you are probably going to have to use something akin to the epoxy resin you used in the first place to accomplish any bond or adhesion. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. 

I know situations like this more from restoring boats than doing garage floors. Products you need next may hide at a boatyard.

Other option is to make sure you are not sweating this beyond a rational point? I too used to be a perfectionist until I really did learn it was not worth the stress. Just park one of these family station wagons over the top and I promise nobody will notice the floor.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Thank you SD for the detailed response.
Wouldn't the chemical reaction be done if the two part epoxy sat mixed in the paint can for 24/30hours?
There was only about two inches worth left in the can.
And because the hardening reaction time had past, I was basically left with somewhat regular paint. Which is why it dried dull/matte finish?

Not as familiar with this process, so my terminology may be wrong. But I have just been thinking trough what you said.
And since the base coat had not fully cured, it accepted the somewhat regular paint on top. Now that the base should be cured. I have these spots left of this dull paint.

Where those areas may accept some type of clear coat, but the base would repel it.
Giving me an opportunity to spray on a clear coat, and have it just stick to these few touched up areas?

Perhaps something high temp resistant. Like automotive high temp clear coat?

Now I am thinking all over the place, but just trying to get creative.

Blake


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

sdsester said:


> First off, something like a clear poly is never going to stick for long to an epoxy resin so don't even think of it to even out the sheen.


These systems are sold with poly in the kit, and they are designed to do exactly that. Mine hasn't changed at all in my garage for 4 years.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

jeffnc said:


> These systems are sold with poly in the kit, and they are designed to do exactly that. Mine hasn't changed at all in my garage for 4 years.


OP, Jeff apparently knows the product so I would listen to him. If it comes with a poly of some kind that will stick, go for it. 

As mentioned, I have never used it. I usually call the guys that mix the epoxy parts A&B in the truck and spray the surface on the floor at just the right temp and with assurance all air bubbles will be out of it. Cheaper than me charging a client to deal with it all.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Just picked up the clear coat by Rustoleum.
Crazy, it was more expensive than the original kit. But that's fine so long as it turns out.
I will post an update once done.
thank you again everyone,
Blake


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

I will bet that it is not going to even out those spots. I bet it is going to make them look worse. I could be wrong( maybe)


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I'm curious to know what happens with the epoxy that was applied WAY past pot life. 
I bet it comes up.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Evening Team,
Just got done applying the Rustoleum clear top coat.
So far so good!
Looks great, very shiny. And best of all, No dull spots!
Only thing is I wished I would have done a better job with those freaking sprinkles.
But regardless, once it's cured, I will have a solid garage floor surface. That looks great, and will be enjoyed for years to come!
Thank you again to everyone that took the time to reply.
Seems to be a good community of folks on this forum.
I look forward to using it as a resource in the future, and maybe even being able to help answer other's questions.
Cheers,
Blake


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

P.s. the Top Coat instructions said specifically to use with the epoxy paint kit, to wait more than 24hours to apply it, but less than 4days.
Which makes me confident I am good all the way around.
Will know more in a few days when I can park my vehicle on it.
I will let everyone know how it turns out. Good or bad.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Hard to get a good shot with the reflection and lighting, but anyway, here's a pic from 2mins ago.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I've had good results with this product.
http://www.adpolymers.com/max-pro-kit-3-coats.html

That kit comes with their AD322, but note the different top coats depending on application.
http://www.adpolymers.com/urethane-epoxy-top-coat.html

I'm leery of Rustoleum or similar brands because it doesn't seem "industrial strength" to me. But this is probably ignorant bias (similar to people saying "Behr sucks" simply because it's from Home Depot and pros are "better than that"). I've never actually tried Rustoleum.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

How can the epoxy still be liquid enough to brush out the next day? The last time I used it, didn't use a kit but PPG AquaPon, the following day what material was left and the cover and brush were solid, and trash.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

B Rich said:


> Will know more in a few days when I can park my vehicle on it.


Didn't catch where you are in the country, but please be patient. In cool/damp weather, I would definitely wait longer, like up to 2 weeks. If it's not cured and by chance something peels up, you'll never have confidence in the product - does it suck? Or was it your application? Or was it that it didn't fully cure?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

jsheridan said:


> How can the epoxy still be liquid enough to brush out the next day?


That confused me too. Was all this mixed properly and everything OP?


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

The math isn't adding up here. I'm curious to see how this turns out.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

I had about two inches depth left in the can the next day. I had put the top back on the paint can. The next day I opened it back up and it was still a thicker paint consistency. And yes, part a and part b had been mixed appropriately.
I used the type of paint mixer you attach to your drill. 
I had decided to paint up the little bit of brick at the bottom of the walls when I had painted enough of the floor to keep me from getting back to part of the wall. Which is why I had covered and kept what was left in the first place.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

B Rich said:


> I had about two inches depth left in the can the next day. I had put the top back on the paint can. The next day I opened it back up and it was still a thicker paint consistency.


What was the overnight temperature?


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

I live in Michigan. Just west of Detroit.
Its be 75 & sunny all week.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

About 50 over night.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Some of that stuff will stay pasty a little longer. I used some macropoxy lately that didn't harden overnight. Left outside maybe 50'


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Jeffnc,
Thank you for all of the help!
Everything still seems to be going well still, and I want to maximize my chances it will continue to do so.

You mentioned waiting up to two weeks before parking my car in the garage. Which is fine, but I do have a couple ?s if you don't mind.
First, would you still recommend two weeks with the current weather here?
Next, is that just for my vehicle or anything?
I have some items that were in the garage that are now just sitting on cement behind the garage.
Luckily I live in the county and have very watchful neighbors that are home all day, so I am not worried about security, but I digress...
Let's see, I have my lawn tractor, pull cart for behind it, snow blower, grill, rolling cart, tool chest (aluminum on casters), and some other misc stuff that's lighter.
How long do you recommend before I put those items back in?
And no, I won't give anyone my address so you can come nab my stuff...lol.

Blake


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Well, that might do it. Cooler temperatures will definitely slow down the curing process. In fact that's why I advised waiting more than a few days to park your car on it. I did my garage in similar temperatures and it was tacky much longer than they said it would take at 70 degrees.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Thx Jeff,
I will wait at least a couple of weeks for the car to see.
What about the rest of the things I store in there?
The same amount of time? Or is it ok to do sooner for the lighter stuff?
Blake


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## RWolff (Jan 27, 2013)

sdsester said:


> Other option is to make sure you are not sweating this beyond a rational point? I too used to be a perfectionist until I really did learn it was not worth the stress. Just park one of these family station wagons over the top and I promise nobody will notice the floor.


That's exactly my thoughts on this. Leave it be and in a few years or whatever when the floor is all skuffed, scratched and stained with oil and tire marks etc then re-do it then, why double work on something like a garage floor, that level of sweat is better spent on something you have to be around all night and look at constantly like your livingroom floor or walls, the dining room table, kitchen counter etc.
I think this family wagon would catch eyes better though, and if you park two of these in the garage no one will ever see the floor! Even better if this second picture was your garage:


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Thank you for the reply Wolf!
your comments made me smile. And in the grand scheme of things, you are right, we aren't solving world hunger here.
It is still not perfect, and I could redo it to make it so. Getting the same number if flecks per square foot spread evenly accross the floor...
However, I am happy with the result now that the sheen is the same throughout. Time to move on to the next project.
Consequently, I spend more time in my garage than I do at my dining room table. Whatever that means...?

cheers,
Blake


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Oh, and it may not be a Bentley or a Rolls, but do I at least get a couple cool points for having this in their?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

B Rich said:


> Consequently, I spend more time in my garage than I do at my dining room table. Whatever that means...?


It means you should spend as much time on this as you want, and make it look as nice as you want. The whole point, as opposed to what Wolff said, is that this floor won't get as many scuffs or oil marks as a regular garage floor. Along with nice walls and nice shelving/storage, etc., you're basically making it a room in your home that you enjoy spending time in.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

B Rich said:


> The same amount of time? Or is it ok to do sooner for the lighter stuff?


Go for it with the lighter stuff, and use that as an experiment. If any of it sticks, then hold of longer.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Great, thanks again Jeff!
I have moved the lighter stuff back into the garage, and all has gone well so far. Floor seems to be pretty solid.
Yet I still plan to wait another week or so before parking in here.
I also had installed two ceiling fan/lights in the garage not too long ago. Which I run all the time for air flow, and expect they are helping with dry time.
Tip for anyone interested, Menard (if in your area) has these ceiling fans that are flush mounted to the ceiling for only $20 a piece!
Have a great weekend everyone!
Blake


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Looking good. No uneven, wet, or dull spots whatsoever.


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## Mr Tile (Mar 20, 2013)

Not a big fan of epoxy paint in the garage as I just feel it gets too dirty in time. I have installed PVC tiles in a number of garage floors and it works really well but I have to say your photos of the outcome have impressed me. I've used Rust Oleum on a few occasions to top up gates and furniture in the house but never thought of using it for a floor. While it looks good, I think I'll stick to the PVC tiles for now


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## lubafoltz703 (May 17, 2013)

I think the Rhino Floortex Coating are great as in my garage storage i have them since two years. It havn't caused any issues since then.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

I like the tiles a lot. May try that if I ever need to resurface again. But from my understanding, a much larger investment...
Luna, you floor looks great. I like how dense your sprinkles are. And it does look similar, so thanks for the encouraging report on longevity!
Blake


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## RWolff (Jan 27, 2013)

B Rich said:


> Oh, and it may not be a Bentley or a Rolls, but do I at least get a couple cool points for having this in their?


Hehe, yeha, you get 2 cool points plus a silver star, the 5 cool point (maximum allowed) and gold star must be reserved for having two Rolls Royce' in the garage, and a heated, polished granite floor. :jester:


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

I'll take it Wolff!
Especially since I used the wrong "there" in the post like I am in kindergarten...


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Question, was your concrete sealed in the past before you put the epoxy on it? I was told epoxy would not hold up if a sealer had been applied in the past.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

No sealer. It had been painted grey, but was basically just primer.
I did degrease, scrub, and power wash the floor twice.
And then used the etch that comes with the kit twice. Which is a mild acid peel for the floor.
I also had filled in all the cracks first, to ensure no weak points, and a solid / sealed surface.
Took very well except the issue mentioned above. But the polymer clear coat worked like magic.
I have been painting the garage and stained the wood steps going into the house. What is amazing is any accidental spills cleaned up with just a rag.
Best way I can think of to describe it is like wiping off a dry erase board...

Really impressed so far, and confident it will last.

Cheers,
Blake


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

B Rich said:


> I have been painting the garage and stained the wood steps going into the house. What is amazing is any accidental spills cleaned up with just a rag.


Just rumors of a technology too simple to work. Some are spreading the idea that drop cloths work well when painting.


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## B Rich (May 8, 2013)

Lol, nice! I had drop cloths down, but I missed a couple times...


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