# How to secure shed doors?



## red92s (Nov 14, 2012)

I like this solution. Simple, cheap, and hard to defeat. Can't cut the lock because you can't get bolt cutters on the shackle. Next logical step up from there would be a puck-style lock and hasp. 

https://www.amazon.com/Padlock-Prot...1499256569&sr=8-1&keywords=shed+security+hasp

You could also upgrade the barrel bolts on the inside of the "fixed" door:
https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Spring...qid=1499256809&sr=8-1&keywords=shed+door+pins


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## clawlan (Nov 29, 2015)

red92s said:


> I like this solution. Simple, cheap, and hard to defeat. Can't cut the lock because you can't get bolt cutters on the shackle. Next logical step up from there would be a puck-style lock and hasp.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Padlock-Prot...1499256569&sr=8-1&keywords=shed+security+hasp
> 
> ...


My concern is that a simple hasp lock will be easy to defeat with a pry bar. Though perhaps there are more secure ones out there. Granted, if a thief wants to get into the shed bad enough, they are going to get in.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

The metal bar does not seem that robust. It looks like a good cordless reciprocating saw would easily cut it.

My shed had double doors. They are hung with three zinc gate hinges per door.










The five bolt pattern is secured with carriage bolts and 1/4"x 1-1/4" fender washers on the insides.

The four bolt pattern is secured to the door frame (which is constructed of tripled 2x4s) using the largest 3" flat-head screws that would fit.

One door is secured from the inside with heavy duty barrel bolts top and bottom. The other door has a heavy duty hasp on the outside secured with machine screws washers (on both sides) and nuts.

There is also a motion sensor security light 10 ft above the ground.

Is it fool proof..., no.

But it is pry resistant and the location of the shed along with the light makes attempts with a reciprocating saw rather conspicuous.


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## clawlan (Nov 29, 2015)

Drachenfire said:


> The metal bar does not seem that robust. It looks like a good cordless reciprocating saw would easily cut it.
> 
> My shed had double doors. They are hung with three zinc gate hinges per door.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insight, you make some great points. I definitely need to replace the hinges (which are just screwed on the outside of the shed). I think with reinforced hinges on one side and a heavy duty hasp on the other, such as the one @red92s suggested, I'll have a good solution. Also less conspicuous than a large security bar.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

My goal is to make things hard enough that a criminal will seek an easier target. 

I did consider supplementing it with punji stakes and flame thrower but I would have to deal with the blood clean up and fire damage to the shed. Then there is that whole legal crap. :vs_unimpressed:


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

Get a dog.


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## clawlan (Nov 29, 2015)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> Get a dog.


I have 3, so they do help.


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## clawlan (Nov 29, 2015)

red92s said:


> I like this solution. Simple, cheap, and hard to defeat. Can't cut the lock because you can't get bolt cutters on the shackle. Next logical step up from there would be a puck-style lock and hasp.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Padlock-Prot...1499256569&sr=8-1&keywords=shed+security+hasp


How tough is the steel this is made from? I was just thinking about this today and you could have the biggest baddest padlock but if the hasp is weak, one could just cut right through it with a reciprocating saw/hacksaw and not even touch the lock.


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## red92s (Nov 14, 2012)

clawlan said:


> How tough is the steel this is made from? I was just thinking about this today and you could have the biggest baddest padlock but if the hasp is weak, one could just cut right through it with a reciprocating saw/hacksaw and not even touch the lock.


I've got one installed on my shed (maybe not that exact one, but something very similar). It's probably 3/16" thick steel. Someone certainly _could_ cut through it with a sawzall if they had sufficient time, battery power, and motivation . . .but that seems pretty unlikely. If all you had at your disposal was a cordless 18V sawzall, It'd be a lot faster to just cut a hole through the siding and a few studs and let yourself in that way. At some point, regardless of how bulletproof the doors are . . . there's only 1/2" of wood siding and a couple 2x4's stopping someone from just making a new door for themselves.


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## clawlan (Nov 29, 2015)

red92s said:


> I've got one installed on my shed (maybe not that exact one, but something very similar). It's probably 3/16" thick steel. Someone certainly _could_ cut through it with a sawzall if they had sufficient time, battery power, and motivation . . .but that seems pretty unlikely. If all you had at your disposal was a cordless 18V sawzall, It'd be a lot faster to just cut a hole through the siding and a few studs and let yourself in that way. At some point, regardless of how bulletproof the doors are . . . there's only 1/2" of wood siding and a couple 2x4's stopping someone from just making a new door for themselves.


Yep, you are right. Deterring crimes of opportunity is the name of the game.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

The lock in the uni-strut vid must be a big secret. Was you quick enough to see it, I wasn't.


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## gthomson (Nov 13, 2016)

I know this is an old post, but I'm looking for how to secure a shed I'm building as well.
I think it'll have dual barn doors on the front side - maybe 7-8' wide combined.
As somebody else mentioned - they can easily punch through the siding, which is 3/8" on mine.
So I'm going about it a different way. Not even sure I'll put a lock on the shed itself now.
The thing's I'll have in there are not a huge expense for each one (small tiller, dethatcher, 3hp compressor, etc...), but I don't want to have to buy them again. And if they were all gone, that would start adding up to more than I'd want to spend again.

I'm probably getting one of these lock/chain combos for about $120 - New York Fahgettaboudit Chain 1415

Will wrap the chain around the handle on the compressor in there, and then run the cords through the lock itself along with the two ends of the chain.
I might need to buy some more tools to fill up the space good 

My thinking...
They'd have to cut the chain or lock - both are supposed to be very resistent to cutting, and would cause a lot of noise for a while to try to get through them.
Or they can try dragging the whole attached set of things at one time - that would be rough to quickly without causing a lot of noise/attention.
Or they can cut the handle on the compressor - making it hard to re-sell.
Or they can cut the cords on maybe 3/4/5 of the tools to be able to get one of the plugs out of the lock.
I would imagine a tool with a cut off cord isn't worth much on the re-sale market. Nor would they probably want to take the time to fix it.
So if left behind, I can then fix it with a new plug on the end.

Would be a lot of work with maybe only one sellable piece in the end.
I've never sold anything to a pawn shop, but I'm guessing they'd have no interest in a tool with a cut cord - can't even test to see if it works.

Also have an anchor that can be mounted to the concrete under the shed, and have the chain route through it, but I don't even think that's necessary, and had other plans for it for similar uses in the garage for the power tools in there instead.

I do still have to find out the size of that lock, though. I have the Kryptonite Evolution lock, which is a good size for this kind of use I think. If the 'New York Lock' is the same size, it would also be good for maybe 5-8 cords. 

The chain I have currently is about 1/2" or 5/8" thick links I think. I was using in the garage to do similar with smaller power tools. Was routing the chain through the router, handles, etc..., and then the cords as well on things that didn't have handles - but that size chain was a bit rough to route through the various places on smaller power tools in quick/easy ways.


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