# Typical Rise & Run of Patio Steps



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Your rise should be somewhere between 7.25 and 7.75 and the treads should be around 11".


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## jdlev (Jan 14, 2015)

Is that with or without the masonry on top of the steps? Should I make it with some wood risers or use concrete blocks? Thank for the tips


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

That would be the complete finished step.If your using masonry on top it should be masonry below and easier.You may want to consider some preformed concrete steps from the big box store and tile them if you don't want simple concrete.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Most steps are going to fall in the range of 7" high, so, once the elevation for the upper and lower landings are established, I start by taking the total rise and dividing it by 7, to determine how many steps there will be. This seldom works out to an even number, so I round up or down. If rounding the total number of steps down means that the steps will be taller than 7-3/4", I would typically round up. Mako's recommendation would make very comfortable steps, but, just in case the height doesn't work for you, or you want to stretch them out or whatever, a couple of formulas that work pretty well in determining the proportions of riser to tread are riser height (R) plus tread length (T) should equal 17-18, and R times T should equal 70-75. You can deviate, but these are pretty good rules of thumb as far as configuration.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

10" for the tread is minimum in most areas. Personally, I wouldn't go less than 12". 

Besides a rise of 'around' 7.5", all the risers need to be the same height.

Don't worry about the effects of the added height of the masonry...it will be the same on all treads. Just make sure you adjust the bottom tread rise to be consistent with the ground.

Do a search on stair specifications...lots of info out there.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

To one of ddawg's points, yes, all of your steps should be the same height. Code is a maximum 3/8" variance between any two steps, and I personally think that is too much, so typically shoot for 1/8" or less. It's harder to achieve with stone or concrete than with wood, but not out of the realm of possible with some attention to detail. And, for some reason, it always seems to be either the top or bottom one that is problematic for some, so pay particular attention to getting started right and knowing where you need to end up.

And to his other point, I too prefer about an 11 to 11-1/2" tread, but I also like about a 1" nose, so, as you will see if you sketch it out, actually works out to 10 to 10-1/2" as far as the initial layout. In other words, you might have say an 11" tread, but, assuming a 1" nose, the horizontal distance from one riser to the next is 10".

Not trying to complicate it, but some things to look at as you begin thinking of what you want.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Is the patio already in place up to the sunroom? If yes, I'd consider avoiding setting a large mass of concrete and masonry on it, as it will likely settle in the near future.

I'd instead consider cutting a few treated stringers and putting some decent looking decking material over them. Wood is much easier to shim/cut/modify in the future if there is some movement........


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Don't forget that if the door to the sunroom opens outward unity the landing on top of the stairway.


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