# Drywall Clips verse Traditional Blocking



## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

A package of 50 clips runs $20 and it appears 300 clips is $50. I would have to buy both 1/2" and 5/8" clips since my roof truss layout is 24" o.c. I imagine that will call for 5/8 rock. My electricians have done their work and this means my blocking will be...blocks to skip where wire runs up...versus continuous pieces of 2x4 sistered or layed flat on my walls and top plates. I was wondering how well the drywall clips perform. I suppose it would be $30 to $40 in lumber costs for blocking at designated areas. The clips would easily run $80 to $100. If they make the process speedier, and easier I would be for them. I have only ever used blocking in the past and don't want to find out the clips are a joke. lain:

Any experienced plasterers and drywall folks have some input?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Anyone else confused by this post?
Why would you need clips?
What are you trying to do?
Never once used "drywall clips".
16" or 24" is standard spacing and should not be an issue when dry walling.
5/8 is used on ceilings to reduce sagging.


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## KC_Jones (Dec 1, 2014)

I agree not sure what this is? I have used clips for roof sheathing between trusses, but never heard of such a thing for drywall?!


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Not sure why the OP needs them....but they have been around for years in different versions. They theoretically eliminate the need for blocking I n corners, partitions, etc. also a version where if framing is off a bit and your first sheet runs over the joining stud, these guys allow you to just put the next sheet in without installing a block. Ron


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-203558504-_-203558682-_-N

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-203558682-_-203558467-_-N

I need them for the corners of rooms + ceiling joists that run parallel to drywall edges.


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

I think I decided to cut down some scraps into 8" lengths and just screw them onto my top plate, and line them up with my wall studs. Since I will have two types of drywall, I would have needed both sizes on clips which would run about $90. I think I have enough scraps to do half, so only $20 in some 2x4 lumber should finish it off. It will take me about half a day to do the blocking, but I feel it will be easier when time comes to drywall. I would like to know if anyone has found the clips to be beneficial besides the less lumber. I may use 'em in my basement when that year comes.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

We still have no pictures of why or where you need them, most of use have never used them or even now what they are.
Only been doing this stuff for 40 years so bare with me.


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

joecaption said:


> We still have no pictures of why or where you need them, most of use have never used them or even now what they are.
> Only been doing this stuff for 40 years so bare with me.


Lol :surprise:

Take a look : HERE

I don't have any photos of the areas I am talking about on my phone. It's essentially every place I need to fasten the outer edges of my drywall. If you have a partition wall, running parallel to your ceiling joists, and you have the partition wall smack dab in the middle of two ceiling joists (aka truss) that are 24" o.c. that means you have approximately 10" of drywall that would not have any backing to screw into to hold it secure. The common solution - ? - to install a flat 2x4, 2x6, etc along the top plate of the partition wall that the ceiling drywall could have something to bite into on the edges.

Same situation, just now it's on the walls. Partition wall in the middle of two studs that are 16" o.c. leaves the drywall edge that butts into the partition wall frame with approximately 6" of unsupported backing. Solution, is to install wood in the stud bay that drywall can fasten to on the edge.

My question was in regards to the topic title, trying to decide on clips or traditional blocking for the edge backing of drywall. But, as I said just a bit ago, I think I'll stick to making blocks to fasten my drywall to in all locations that a stud or ceiling joist is not within a couple inches of the drywall edge.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I just cut the first piece so it falls on a stud, the rest will follow.
Google "drywall butt block", simple cheap way to create a low spot where untapered joints meet.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Look at Myron Ferguson's (the drywall guy) book it will explain the clips, as stated have been used for years. They are a good product.
If you don't want to buy the book just look up that part. But the book is rally worth buying.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I don't know how you guys frame, but when I have a wall partition that falls between floor joists. I cross block the joist (on edge) before the partition gets installed. Then I have something to attach the partition and the drywall to.

If same occurs on a wall cavity, I would add 2 extra wall studs with blocks between, making a 3 stud corner with square blocks in between.

Makes a rigid wall connection with no drywall attachment issues


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yodaman said:


> I don't know how you guys frame, but when I have a wall partition that falls between floor joists. I cross block the joist (on edge) before the partition gets installed. Then I have something to attach the partition and the drywall to.
> 
> If same occurs on a wall cavity, I would add 2 extra wall studs with blocks between, making a 3 stud corner with square blocks in between.
> 
> Makes a rigid wall connection with no drywall attachment issues


With the GC's I have dealt with over the years this is really rare.


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

I do that for the ceiling, but for walls that is less insulation to be had from wood in the wall + sometimes people won't insulate a 3 stud box. I prefer ladder blocking and then I can get insulation behind them + you can move wall location a few inches if desired without losing blocking.


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