# Help evaluating bids for a flat roof in San Francisco



## hey_bay (Jun 11, 2013)

Hello everyone,

I am the new owner of a SF home with a 1200 sq. ft. flat roof that is currently tar and gravel. The roof on it now was done in 1992 and is at the end of its life. The roof has a good slope on it and I don't have leaks as far as I know but it hasn't rained much since i've lived here. I've been up there and saw the tar underneath the gravel in a hardened state and in some locations there is some fiber material peeking through. Its time for a new roof. We plan on keeping this house "forever", either living in it or renting it when we grow out of it. 

I got 3 bids to do this roof, each contractor came either highly recommended or has high reviews. Each contractor has slightly different preferred method of solving the problem. I'm completely stuck on who to pick.

Contractor one proposes:
1st layer #80 APP base fiberglass 
2nd layer #180 APP finish granular using a torch-down method
4 year warranty
total cost $6500

Contractor two proposes:
1st layer certainteed flitlastic Self-Adhering but mechanically fastened base
2nd layer flintlastic Self-adhering Cap 
5 year warranty
total cost $9000

Contractor three proposes:
Built-up-roof, 4 layers total: Fontana G-40 Base, 2 layers Certainteed Ply sheet and a Certainteed Cap
25 year warranty if 2 maintenance visits are agreed to and paid for (estimated at $600/ea. every 10 years, i.e. visit 1 at 10 years, $600, visit 2 at 20 years, $600) Warranty is also transferrable to a new owner.
total cost: $16850


Questions:
1. Is this an easy decision, if so who to pick and why?

2. I've been analyzing the lifecycle costs of each of these proposals but I don't think that I have realistic numbers. I am estimating that the first two roofs will need to be torn down and replaced at 15 years and the third roof will need to be torn down and replaced at 25 years. My lifecycle costs point to the same price relationship between the 3 contractors as the opening bids. Are my assumptions reasonable? Its is reasonable to analyze roof lifecycle costs over 30 years? 

I'm not thrilled about the torch down method due to fire risk. I'm both enticed and wary of self-adhesive roof plies. And I feel like I'm overpaying for the 3rd, OR will get a great deal until he goes out of business.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

You are going about this all wrong, but dont feel bad, most people do.

From your pictures, your problem is that your perimeter flashing's were never done correctly in the first place.

As far as your needing a new roof, I would appreciate some close up photos of what you are seeing that makes you think you need one.

None of the proposals you got indicate removal of the existing roof or flashings. That bothers me. I have not used an APP modified Bitumen in 20 or so years. Modified's formulated with SBS rubber are just too superior to even think about APP. Throw out No. 1.

I would not even think about using a peel and stick membrane on a low slope roof. Throw out no. 2

Right now No. 3 looks like the most responsible proposal, but as usual it is severely lacking in detail

Frankly, I do not see any ridging, or blistering in the field of your roof, so you may simply need to properly re-flash the perimeter, and install a metal coping. 

You really need someone like myself to look at this, do a non-destructive survey, and give you some useful information by which you can make an informed decision. There are very few roofers (Present company excepted) that will tell you you don't need a new roof.

*PS All of your flashing is deficient.*


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

You are definitely going about it the right way by looking at life-cycle since you plan on keeping it long-term. Unfortunately most people, roofers included, have no clue what that is. 90% of my work is gov't entities and everything is about life cycle costing. Not knowing the details of your roof we can't speculate on what you are getting for your money but that's generally not the purpose of this forum. 

I would also eliminate 1 and 2. They are ten-year roofs at best. I only recommend SA's for small, easy projects and tie-in's with other systems. ie dead valleys on shingles, porch/patios. BUR's are tried and true. Unfortunately only a small % of roofers are competent installers anymore since the advent of single-ply. Teach a monkey how to weld a seam and he thinks he's a roofer. 

I'm actually agreeing with Jagans that, from the pictures your roof itself doesn't look that bad. We could be missing something though. Walls and curbs weren't done correctly which seems odd since it looks like a clean, decent install.

I don't know how good that certainteed cap is but your main issue over the life of their "warranty" will more than likely be de-granulation of that cap. Best thing to get the life out of it is inspecting it every five years or so and possibly coating it with a good acrylic periodically. A good 4-ply and gravel roof is a great long-term system. Just kind of a pain if they get a leak. BTW, who exactly is providing the warranties?

We have systems that, installed properly, will easily get you 30yrs worry-free but I don't know what they would cost on your roof.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

> Last edited by OldNBroken; Today at 09:49 AM. Reason: Hey look, my 1k post


:thumbsup:...Well it took you long enough.


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## hey_bay (Jun 11, 2013)

Hey guys,
Thanks for the responses. Let me fill in some info. All bids come will complete tear off of the old roof and disposal. The first proposal proposes to "heat weld the base sheet to the roof deck". This sounds like a no no. I believe i want my base layer mechanically applied.

Speaking of that, I peeked into my attic and found tar dripping from between the roofing boards, so perhaps the last (or previous roof) directly applied tar to the roof deck. What should I expect with that? Is this a bad thing?

All the warranties I have quoted are from the installer. Their warranties. I figured the manufacturer warranties were not really relevant since the manufactures will wiggle out of it somehow and point to the installation. 

When I look at my existing roof, in some spots the gravel has been sparse and the underlying tar is rather alligator-looking, in some spots there you can see a weave fiber underneath the black tar. This is on the horizontal surface.

One question.... If the flashings were done wrong, something that is quite obvious, how can I possibly trust that anything unseen is done right? Meaning, some kind of refurb will be rather untrustworthy, correct?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

I've never seen rock installed on top of perimeter walls like that, very interesting. 

The asphalt dripping in to your attic could be two things, 1 they moped the first layer down. This is a huge no no on wood decks. Or they nailed a "felt" instead of a heavy base sheet down. Depending on the type of deck if you do not have any nails penetrating then you can assume they mopped the first layer down. If you have thicker decking this may not be the case. I would assume #1. and yes it's bad, bad for the person tearing it off, it will likely not all come off and shouldn't be a problem.

Contractor warranties are only as good as the contractor, be wary of a contractor who has been in business only 5 years and offering a 20 year warranty. 

Some times gravel doesn't always bond well with the asphalt, simple fix is to get a bucket of mastic or cold app and stick the gravel back down. Seeing the fiber of the felts is because it's been unprotected for to long. The gravel is protecting the asphalt/felt from the sun. The reason you are seeing it on the wall flashing is because they are done wrong. Either they should have used a mineral surfaced cap sheet to flash with or a smooth cap sheet and coated it with alumacoating.

20 years is a reasonable amount of time to expect this type of roof to last, even much longer depending on maintenance. I like that about #3, they offer an extended warranty with a maintenance contract, this is something we often do our self. 25 years might be a bit much IMO, we offer a 10 or 15, but we walk the roof every year or twice a year.


I don't real like the use of mineral surfaced cap sheets. I would spec it like this.

Tear off all of the asphalt and gravel roof surfacing and flashing, and metal flashings down to the roof deck. Any areas firmly bonded in place (think completely mopped base sheet) will be scraped smooth. 

Cap nail a fiberglass base sheet.

Install cant strip around all perimeter edges. 

Mop 3 plys type 4 felt.
Mop 1 ply SBS smooth cap.

Install new metal flashings around all penetrations 

Mop 1 layer of SBS base sheet on all perimeter walls lapping on to roofing felts approximately 6 inches and up the total height of the wall. 

Mop 1 layer of SBS mineral surfaced cap sheet on all perimeter walls lapping on to roofing felts approximately 8 inches and up the total height of the wall. Color to be white.

Flood coat entire roof with asphalt and a full coating gravel.


Install EPDM over the top of the walls fasten cleat and install 24 ga prefinished cap metal.



This roof would likely run a little bit more then contractor #3's number but is easily a 25 year roof and could go a lot longer with maintenance.


And you are correct, torching to a wood roof deck is bad.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

hey_bay said:


> Hey guys,
> Thanks for the responses. Let me fill in some info. All bids come will complete tear off of the old roof and disposal. The first proposal proposes to "heat weld the base sheet to the roof deck". This sounds like a no no. I believe i want my base layer mechanically applied.
> 
> Speaking of that, I peeked into my attic and found tar dripping from between the roofing boards, so perhaps the last (or previous roof) directly applied tar to the roof deck. What should I expect with that? Is this a bad thing?
> ...


First of all, it would be good to find out exactly what kind of BUR you have. 

In roof speak, Tar is Coal Tar Pitch, which is a bitumen which results from the destructive distillation of coal. Asphalt is the residue from the distillation process used to break down crude oil. It is a petroleum product.

From the looks of your roof, and the fact that you have dripping of bitumen from the roof deck, you may have a coal tar pitch roof. 

To find out which one you have, take a piece of the bitumen and put it into a jar of mineral spirits. If it is pitch, the MS will turn yellow. If it is asphalt, it will turn brown.

Coal tar pitch has a softening point of 140 degrees, and will melt on a hot day, that is why they used to call it self-healing. Roofing asphalt can have different softening points based on the amount of oxygen that is injected into it. Coal Tar Pitch roofs are the Mercedes Benz of BUR's, and they are the only roof that is not broken down by ponding water, as pitch is not emulsified by H20. Unfortunately, you cannot have one, especially in California, because pitch is a carcinogen.

You are quite right in your logic in stating that they may have done other things wrong. It is completely wrong to mop or "Thermally Adhere" (that means torch) directly to a wood deck. I will go further to state that anyone who attempts to torch to a wood deck is not only incompetent, they are criminally insane, or at least criminally ignorant, and will probably burn your house down. Rosin seized paper is supposed to be laid down over a wood deck followed by a mechanically fastened base sheet, or insulation. This provides a shear plane which is absolutely necessary with a wood deck due to expansion and contraction. 

As far as warranties go, I do not know any commercial roof manufacturer that offers a warranty on residential projects. It is just not worth it to them, as the amount of material that is used on a roof like yours is miniscule.

Your best warranty is a good specification, installed by a good contractor, and periodic maintenance, like cleaning the roof and drainage system of debris. You can do that yourself, you dont have to pay for it, unless you want to, and it should be done twice a year, depending on how many trees you have close to your roof.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

1985gt said:


> I've never seen rock installed on top of perimeter walls like that, very interesting.
> 
> The asphalt dripping in to your attic could be two things, 1 they moped the first layer down. This is a huge no no on wood decks. Or they nailed a "felt" instead of a heavy base sheet down. Depending on the type of deck if you do not have any nails penetrating then you can assume they mopped the first layer down. If you have thicker decking this may not be the case. I would assume #1. and yes it's bad, bad for the person tearing it off, it will likely not all come off and shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> ...


1985GT has a good spec there, but it does not take into consideration the dripping bitumen, problem, and it does not state that you are going to need a pressure treated wood nailer and tapered edge on top of the parapet walls to terminate your base flashings, and secure your cleats for your metal coping, which should be sloped back toward the roof. Your flue stacks are going to need Stainless Steel Tall cone flashings, and you pipes need 3# lead pipe jacks. Im sure he knows all this stuff, it is just details, but a long lasting roof is in the details. It is pretty clear from his spec he knows his stuff.

I know you do not get excessively hot weather there in the bay area, but if you have thermal insulation in the current roof system, that may have prevented the bitumen drippage from becoming too bad. You really need to address that, so check to see whether that drippage is asphalt or pitch. Pitch is not a problem as long as you keep its temperature down.

You do not say where your thermal insulation in your home is located. This is important.


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## hey_bay (Jun 11, 2013)

Thanks guys for helping to break the logjam in my mind over these different proposals. 

I attached the pics of inside my attic.

Regarding the thermal insulation, in the attic (which is only technically a crawl space, maybe 3' tall) there is some sprayed cellulose foam and some minimal fiberglass batting. I don't think its all over the place.

In SF we generally have cool temps and mild summers, we have a furnace and no A/C. I've been leaning towards a black roof to minimize our heating costs and because we are never too hot in the house. How does this affect roof lifespan?

1985gt mentioned to cover the roof with gravel. I had leaned against having actual gravel back on the roof as it become almost impossible to inspect. But perhaps with a thick enough coating, it could be more durable than the granulated cap... perhaps I can reuse my old gravel.


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## hey_bay (Jun 11, 2013)

BTW, house was built in 1942, last roof was done in 1992 at a cost of $5200 (SF building permits)


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

1985gt just gave you my favorite spec for your project. Other than the epdm which I don't understand that roof will give you many years of worry-free use. Of course with any system you choose, it's only as good as the installer. Sounds like none of us are big fans of mineral cap sheets on any roof you expect to last more than ten years. 

If you want to see the ferrari of cap sheets, take a look at this. http://www.garlandco.com/products/roll-goods/membranes/millennium-fr-mineral.html 

Set in green lock adhesive and you heat weld the laps just like single-ply. Welds smoother and easier than any single-ply. You are never going to get those laps to separate. It's the slickest, cleanest, most bullet-proof roof you've ever seen when finished. I love doing them. 

That's the only mineral cap sheets I like using. Nothing beats coal tar on a flat roof...'cept maybe metal.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> :thumbsup:...Well it took you long enough.


Oh you know I want to make some comment to the effect of "Some of us have better things to do..." But of course I won't. :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

OldNBroken said:


> 1985gt just gave you my favorite spec for your project. Other than the epdm which I don't understand that roof will give you many years of worry-free use. Of course with any system you choose, it's only as good as the installer. Sounds like none of us are big fans of mineral cap sheets on any roof you expect to last more than ten years.
> 
> If you want to see the ferrari of cap sheets, take a look at this. http://www.garlandco.com/products/roll-goods/membranes/millennium-fr-mineral.html
> 
> ...


Im pretty sure 1985 gt is refering to the use of EPDM as secondary protection under the metal coping. Thats what I spec too, in case you have to remove it.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

The bitumen drippage in your photos is really minimal compared to what I have seen and you will be fine with the spec given you by 1985 gt.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

I C. So just a slip sheet of sorts.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

OldNBroken said:


> I C. So just a slip sheet of sorts.


Well yeah, but secondary protection in case water gets through the joints in the coping. It will hit the EPDM and run out over the base flashing instead of behind it. Mod bit is way too thick and boardy to break right angles with. You can use HT Ice dams too, but epdm is usually handy and works well.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Garland is a great product, we are an approved installer, the Stress ply is is a great cap sheet also, only down fall is when it gets to hot out you have a hard time keeping them straight. I've never done the ones set in adhesive.

To be fair the reason why I never mention them is I don't know how far their reach is as far as marketing and installers goes, when I bid the last job the cap sheet was over 250 a roll  Generally that puts their product out of the market for residential products. 

The Epdm is to protect the nailer on the wall, I didn't added a sloped nailer as this can also be accomplished by making your cleat more like a gravel stop, thus making slope on the cap. Also we generally never bring the base or cap up and over the wall as it bunches up to much and EPDM servers the same purpose and is more user friendly in that application. 


Oh and yeah it was a down and dirty spec. I get paid to get in to more detail :laughing:


@ Op I didn't notice where you said the insulation was in your house, is there a attic space of sorts, it looks like it from the photos, if so, intake and exhaust vents would be needed.


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

Most of our hot is Stress-ply. When it comes to BUR not much comes close to Garlands materials. I agree it's not for the general resi market but most everything we do is corporate or gov't. If you think the stress-ply is pricey, millenium is more. First time I've ever heat-welded a cap sheet though and it's just amazing to do. 

Was referring to stress-ply when I said there are systems we do that will last him a very long time but don't know if it's in his price-range. The next best thing for the OP is 4-ply gravel, just as you spec'd. About the only system I know that has been used for decades all over the country and has a great track record in all regions. Unfortunately single-plys and environmentalists have really cooled our kettles the last 10 or 15 years. Only thing it's gained anyone is job-security for single-ply jockeys and constant sales for mfrs.


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## hey_bay (Jun 11, 2013)

Since I've eliminated the first two bids, does it make sense to get at least another tar and gravel / BUR estimate for comparison? The cost of the 3rd bid feels high... but I don't buy roofs every day..


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

hey_bay said:


> Since I've eliminated the first two bids, does it make sense to get at least another tar and gravel / BUR estimate for comparison? The cost of the 3rd bid feels high... but I don't buy roofs every day..


It never hurts to get two or three competitive bids for an apples-to-apples scope of work. The three bids you got were fine for determining the possibilities but if you now have a defined scope you want to pursue then get bids based on what you want more than what they are offering you.
You can even write up your own scope of work, hand it to them as they walk the roof and tell them you want bids based on that scope. I do recommend listening to them and considering any refinements they may have to your scope of work to make it better for your specific project. I do not recommend listening too long to anyone who wants to completely change your scope though. 

Keep it simple and easy, yet concise. Some of us have short attention spans and tend to get annoyed by jumping through too many hoops for one little job. You may end up losing the interest of the best person to do your job. If that happened you may bSQUIRREL!!!!!:whistling2::whistling2::whistling2:


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

hey_bay said:


> Since I've eliminated the first two bids, does it make sense to get at least another tar and gravel / BUR estimate for comparison? The cost of the 3rd bid feels high... but I don't buy roofs every day..


"Feels High" compared to what? Two bids by people that don't know their axe from their elbow?

I used to run in to this all the time. I stopped doing it years ago. People asked me to compare bids they got from three different roofers. It was an exercise in futility.

You need a sound specification and drawings with everything that 1985gt and I told you about, and then you go out for bids based on those specifications and drawings. That is called a Project Manual.

There are other types of roof that you can install that would be cheaper and would last for about 20 years as long as people dont go up there and damage it, but you started out asking for a BUR, so you were given a first rate solution.

A BUR is the toughest roof you can get, but there are single ply roofs that have stood the test of time, and would work well for you. Google Sarnafil, and Fibertite. I have roofs installed with these membranes that were installed in the early 80's that are still going strong.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

OldNBroken said:


> Most of our hot is Stress-ply. When it comes to BUR not much comes close to Garlands materials. I agree it's not for the general resi market but most everything we do is corporate or gov't. If you think the stress-ply is pricey, millenium is more. First time I've ever heat-welded a cap sheet though and it's just amazing to do.
> 
> Was referring to stress-ply when I said there are systems we do that will last him a very long time but don't know if it's in his price-range. The next best thing for the OP is 4-ply gravel, just as you spec'd. About the only system I know that has been used for decades all over the country and has a great track record in all regions. Unfortunately single-plys and environmentalists have really cooled our kettles the last 10 or 15 years. Only thing it's gained anyone is job-security for single-ply jockeys and constant sales for mfrs.


I've never ran in to the Garland guy spec the millenium sheet. I will agree their roll goods are the best quality I've seen, a side from the problem we had with the cap sheet snaking around on us, for the record, I was either mopping or setting the rolls at the time and I couldn't get one to go straight to save my life, the other foreman then set the rolls and did the same for him. We figured that if 30+ years of combined experience couldn't get the rolls to run true then it was time to shut down. It was 110 out plus humidity. The rolls ran true and perfect at under 90 degs air temp. It was odd I can tell you. 

The felts how I can't say enough about how awesome the felts are. Those line oh how the setters love those lines!

100% of our garland jobs have been on schools, all 30 year warranties and depending on the installer I have no doubt they will og that long or longer. Most of the ones the Garland rep specs now are gravel. I will chalk that up to the economy and people not being able to spend the $ on the mineral cap.

And sadly all of our kettles have been shut off for years a side from the here and there job, maybe 2 a year. It's a sad time.


@ Op, provide the roofing companies the spec, we have given you a good outline, there is nothing wrong with that, roofers bid to other peoples specs all the time. When I do bids like this I will often ask to see a competitors bid "spec" So I can bid apples to apples, of course I ask them to white out the price. You could always hire someone to write a spec for you also, every state, and most bigger city have a roof consultant some place, even some of the roofing companies do that type of work. We have done it 100's if not more times and also bid the work. Often times not getting the job!

Of course there is other options, PVC, even a good EPDM. all are viable options for you roof.


I would say research what YOU want for a roof, then write a spec or a down and dirty one and have the roofers bid to that, even spec a warranty. If nothing else you will be more informed and hopefully weed out the "roofers" who really can't roof. And I think we all can agree, a knowledgeable customer is sometimes a blessing, just as long as they don't watch your every move, and if they get on the roof while the tear off is going on, you get handed a fork or a shovel. :thumbsup:


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## OldNBroken (Jun 11, 2008)

1985gt said:


> and if they get on the roof while the tear off is going on, you get handed a fork or a shovel. :thumbsup:


:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## hey_bay (Jun 11, 2013)

I wanted to type in some of the specs from the BUR quote I got... the more I look into it and call around and read, the more its making sense to me.

Complete Main Roof Removal And Replacement With A New Four Ply Mineral Surfaced 25 Year Built Up 

Roof System To Be Completed As Follows: 

SURFACE PREPARATION 
Dislodge and remove all the existing layers of the old roofing materials including any other debris or 
foreign matter and remove from premises. Chip away the old asphalt materials adjacent to all the roof 
outlets, pipes flashings, vents or any other roof penetrations, tops of walls, stucco or concrete surfaces 
that connect to the roof membrane. Apply a brush coat of asphalt primer and allow to dry thoroughly. All 
the roof outlets, pipes, and vent flashings and any other related flashings will be removed and replaced 
with new material of same type and gauge. Examine the roof deck for potential problems that might affect 
the new roof system quality or performance such as broken sheathing, weak areas, dry rot, trapped 
moisture, etc. In the event problems of this nature are discovered COMPANY will 
promptly contact the building owner or the owner’s agent to advise of the situation and the extra costs. 
Any deck repairs are not included in this proposal as there is no means to predetermine the extent, if any, 
of such defects. Any repair work is computed on a time and materials basis at a rate of $ 95.00 per man 
hour plus the cost of the materials. This includes the time for the removal and disposal of the defective 
materials and the time to purchase and install the new materials. 

Remove and replace all roof drains and pipe flashings. 
Note: We will check the heater flue as we believe the top part of the flue is missing. 
Furnish and install an extra pipe flashing for the cable supply line. 

New Roof System: 
ROOF MEMBRANE APPLICATION (NON ORGANIC) 
Apply the new four ply roof membrane in the following manner; Install one layer of Fontana G-40 Base 
Sheet (40lbs) starting at the low point of the roof surface or at the roof outlets over the entire roof surface 
lapping each sheet with a 2 inch overlap and a minimum 6 inch end lap. Secure the base sheet to the 
substrate with ring shank capped simplex type fasteners. Apply the fasteners to overlaps on 
approximately 9 inch intervals and apply two staggered rows to the center of each sheet, stagger nailed 
at 18 inch intervals. Install two layers of CertainTeed Ply Sheet set in a solid mopping of hot bitumen 
(Type III) at a rate of approximately 25 lbs per every 100 sq. ft. of surface area per layer. All the ply 
sheets are to be broomed or stepped into position to insure a positive lamination. Install one layer of 
CertainTeed Cap Sheet over the entire roof surface set in a solid mopping of Type III hot bitumen at a 
rate of approximately 25 lbs per every 100 sq ft of surface area. 

FLASHING 
Set new primed pipe flashings in a solid trowelling of flashing cement over the new roof membrane and 
secure with proper length galvanized nails on 2 inch centers. Apply two alternate layers of fiberglass 
finishing felts over the new flashing set in a solid mopping of hot bitumen and feather out approximately 4 
inches per layer. Reinforce all the angle laps, the inside and outside corners on any base flashings, the 
roof outlets, the pipe flashings and any other roof penetration with a trowelling of flashing cement. 
PARAPETWALL AREAS 
Install one layer of CertainTeed Ply Sheet over the entire wall surface area and set in a sprinkle mopping 
of hot bitumen. Install one layer of CertainTeed Cap Sheet set in a solid mopping of hot bitumen with all 
the seams double mopped and pressed into place by hand. Both the layers shall have the seams 
feathered a minimum of six inches. Secure the tops of the walls with capped nails approximately on 8 
inch centers. 

Furnish and install new 4" x 2" perimeter flashing at the outer perimeters to be set on a solid trowelling of 
flashing cement over the new mineral surfaced cap sheet and anchor on six inch centers. Apply asphalt primer to the top flange of the metal and apply a six inch wide layer of 72lb mineral surfaced cap sheet 
set in hot asphalt over the new perimeter metal. 

Note: The main roof connects to a stucco chimney next door and need special attention as follows: 

Chip away and remove four to five inches of the stucco and dispose. After the new roof is in place furnish 
and install a new weep screed, new steel lath and new stucco. Furnish and apply a coat of primer to the 
new stucco surfaces. 

Remove the middle 4x4 glass skylight. Fabricate and install a new 24 gauge sloped glass skylight to 
match the original. 

Note: This project will take three days to complete. 

WARRANTY 
This new roof system is warranted against defects in labor and workmanship for TEN YEARS 
commencing at the completion of the work. At the end of the ten year warranty period, if we are allowed 
to return and perform thorough maintenance on the existing roof, with price to be computed on a time and 
material basis at the time, we will extend the warranty for an additional ten (10) year warranty. At the end 
of the that ten year warranty period, if we are allowed to return and perform thorough maintenance on the 
existing roof, with price to be computed on a time and material basis at the time, we will extend the 
warranty for an additional five (5) year warranty. Our warranty is transferable to any new ownership.


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