# Tiling and outside corner



## smartin114 (Nov 19, 2007)

Hello, I am remodeling my bathroom and shower area. I have built in a shower and am going to tile it. I am a bit confused on how to do the outside corners of the shower. I have built a half wall with a support attaching to the ceiling on the left side of the wall. I used cement backerboard to cover everything, but the corners don't meet exactly, because I couldn't get a straight edge on the backerboard. Can I use cornerbead with thinset to help pull the corner together better and to give it a solid edge? Does anyone have any other suggestions? Also, do I have to use bullnose tile on both sides of the corner where the outside corner meets? Any suggestions for the outside corners would be great appreciated. I have tiled before, but I have a feeling this is going to take some work.

Thanks!


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## Chagres (Oct 13, 2007)

Corner bead might not be the best idea since it's got that little "nose" on it for mud floating purposes. Ideally, very square cut backer board should be used (I'm not a big fan of scribe 'n snap). Luckily, it doesn't sound like the surfaces you are dealing with are load bearing like a floor would be. Does this look like a case where you could skim the corners in both directions to achieve a a square corner profile?

I don't think it matters whether you use bull nose except that it will take bumps better than border tiles and grout.

Good luck,
Kelly
http://homerenorepair.suite101.com/


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## smartin114 (Nov 19, 2007)

I did a pretty poor job of the scribing and snaping and the edges are pretty rough. Maybe I should take off what I have up and go get another piece of backerboard. Would you suggest cutting it with a circular saw that has a blade for cement? Or how would I go about getting the straightest edge possible on it?


thanks for the reply. Sarah


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## Chagres (Oct 13, 2007)

Yep Sarah, that's what I would do. It's not that you didn't do a good job. The first big job I contracted with backer board I tried the score 'n snap that they recommend - that's just hype in the real world. Plus, if the ground work is right, the finish work will be a breeze.

Make sure you wear at least a dust mask when you cut the board. Enjoy!


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## scorrpio (Aug 14, 2006)

I had really good results cutting cementboard with a jigsaw, using a carbide grit blade (Bosch jisaw blade is aroung $7 at HD). A sawzall with carbide grit will also work, but you need to know how to control the tool well. And yes, circ saw or angle grinder will work, but the amount of dust produced will be ginormous. 

That said, your other option is to leave what you have in place, andpatch it thoroughly with mortar thinset and fiberglass mesh tape. Stuff mortar into gap, embed mesh, trowel more mortar over it, and then screed it smooth for a crisp corner.

For tiling, you should need bullnose only on one side of the corner.


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## Handyman50 (Sep 28, 2007)

My wife and I recently installed 8 sheets of Hardibacker on our tub surround. We tried the score and snap method that I have seen pros do easily. Guess what, it didn't work for us. So, I used my 16 year old "Irwin Marathon" ($10 at HD) carbide tipped blade in my circular saw. Some folks say to install the blade backwards so it doesn't ruin it, but I used it the correct way. The blade will still cut wood. It cut the Hardibacker like butter. As suggested, you do want to wear a substantial dust mask. It gets very dusty.

As for the corners, if they form a tight 90 degree angle, you could use fiberglass mesh tape and Durabond to finish them. The Durabond will dry as hard as the backer board and make a substantial surface for the tile.


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