# Concrete Countertop Question



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Maybe you should have used the advice the pro's gave you to start with.Only advice now is to start over.It has no structural integrity the way you did it.


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## malangon (Sep 14, 2012)

*What?*

No offense (I appreciate you reading the post), but I have a hard time believing that microscopic airholes will impact structural integrity to the point I need to start over. Especially since all of my research indicates this is a pretty common problem.

I am not a pro nor do I wish to become a pro, but in my mind "DIY" should allow for a bit of amateur experimentation. I was hoping for some more helpful advice.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Not quite sure I understand your post. You said that you used a wire brush to uncover the wormholes from the air. Then you said you tried to seal the wormholes using a grout paste. I am not sure what your question is, do you want to see the airholes? Or did the wire brush unexpectedly uncover airholes, and you don't want them, so now you are wondering how to fill them in? Most transit mix concrete is deliberately supplied with an agent called an air entraining agent that is designed to add millions of microscopic air bubbles to concrete. This is particularly useful for outdoor projects subject to freeze/thaw, the air bubbles make the concrete more resistant to degradation from freezing. When I used to spec concrete, we would set a minimum percent air entrainment, typically around 3-5 percent. Certainly does not affect structural integrity of the concrete.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Try a slurry made of only water and Portland cement, no sand. As you wipe slurry over pin holes you can easily trap air in the holes. Those holes will then be resurrected over time. You may want to spread a slurry then use something like a tooth-pic to address each hole and vent any trapped air. I would also wet the substrate well before spreading any slurry to help get the mix into the holes and slow the cure.

Just an idea.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

If the concrete is a day or two old when stripped, you can use a carborundum rubbing stone to rub out the surface and rid yourself of the holes, older than that you can make a slurry of water and cement, and use the same rubbing stone to apply the slurry, but doing it when the concrete is new and green always works better.


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

Im also trying this for money saving reasons . Id like to see your final results and what kind of stain your using , application methods etc if possible .


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## CosmicMiami (Feb 2, 2013)

I'm wondering about steel bar vs. mesh. I have seen videos where they simply place the galvanized strips used in block walls.

I also plan on pouring this in place with just a rounded edge and flat on the bottom. Not sure how I will finish the exposed durarock but I'll figure it out. This will be 7' long, outdoors. It would be difficult to pickup and place if I pour and then set.


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## CosmicMiami (Feb 2, 2013)

CosmicMiami said:


> I also plan on pouring this in place with just a rounded edge and flat on the bottom. Not sure how I will finish the exposed durarock but I'll figure it out. This will be 7' long, outdoors. It would be difficult to pickup and place if I pour and then set.


After further research, I now plan on using the plastic bullnose form. A suggestion from the boss! She wants the bullnose.

Online suppliers sell the bullnose form in a much greater length than I need. Looking for suppliers in the Miami area.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

did you cast it right side up OR upside down ? slurry it again til the bug holes are gone THEN stain away & apply epoxy IF you wish,,, btw, epoxies are NOT meant for exterior use UNLESS you choose a polyaspartic OR polyurea


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

CosmicMiami said:


> After further research, I now plan on using the plastic bullnose form. A suggestion from the boss! She wants the bullnose.
> 
> Online suppliers sell the bullnose form in a much greater length than I need. Looking for suppliers in the Miami area.


 I used a product called Encrete and put tint in the mix. Used 3/8 rebar and poured in place. Used epoxy after it dried.


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## rostikpasek (Feb 19, 2017)

Robpo said:


> I used a product called Encrete and put tint in the mix. Used 3/8 rebar and poured in place. Used epoxy after it dried.
> View attachment 89482
> 
> 
> View attachment 89483


Can you please tell me what concrete you use and how do you mix it 
Id like to build in my kitchen same counter top and honestly dont know where to start 
if you give me detailed instruction it will be extremely helpfull

Thank you


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

more preferable to building your own mix design, buy what's posted above, buddy rhodes, cement-all, or any other commercially avail mix - we use carbon fiber instead of rebar


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

rostikpasek said:


> Can you please tell me what concrete you use and how do you mix it
> Id like to build in my kitchen same counter top and honestly dont know where to start
> if you give me detailed instruction it will be extremely helpfull
> 
> Thank you



You know that post is 2 1/2 years old right?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

YEP ! but he just joined the forum 2/17,,, gotta give him credit for searching before posting :thumbup:


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

stadry said:


> YEP ! but he just joined the forum 2/17,,, gotta give him credit for searching before posting :thumbup:



Yes i know you know that, but the question was for him, if no reply on the forum, click on his name and send a private message.


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## NickThomas5th (Mar 5, 2017)

Robpo said:


> I used a product called Encrete and put tint in the mix. Used 3/8 rebar and poured in place. Used epoxy after it dried.
> View attachment 89482
> 
> 
> View attachment 89483


Wow that looks amazing!! Thats a great idea to tint the mix. I wonder how far you could go with that.Can you mix gold leaf in there grey and gold it a nice appearance.


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