# Basement Project



## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel on this project . 

I started framing a couple months ago, 2 rooms + laundry + landing at the bottom of the stair, somewhere around 8 or 9 hundred square feet. Took me about 6 weeks of weekend work to frame it all in then I had the electrician come in and rough-in the wiring. Had the frameing and electrical rough inspections completed the week before Christmas. Thursday before Christmas I had 40 12 foot and 23 8 foot sheets of drywall delivered and the fun began . I rented the lift you see in the pic and managed to hang it all in less than the 1 week rental period, now it's all taped. 2 more coats of mud and sanding still to go. I am back to work so it'll take a few weekends now to get to the paint stage...


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## Spike99 (Dec 24, 2007)

Your pictures bring back lots of memories. Memories when my basement got flooded (in 2005) and it needed a complete rebuild. Your progress is looking great. Looking forward to see your finished basement pictures.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Really looks good. I'm still hanging drywall, after 12 months of starting  my basement.


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Oh man, 12 months! I'd have to shoot myself . All day mud spreading session today, I'm applying the second coat. Maybe 1/2 way or a little more through the second coat. Emptied my 10th 5 gallon pail. Hope to get it all second coated early in the week so it's all dry and I can rent the Porter Cable drywall sander next weekend . Found one at the local True Value hardware / rental center


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

I mean I haven't been hanging drywall for 12 months.

I started Nov. 06 with framing, electrical, insulating etc.....

I started hanging drywall mid October. I am almost finished the ceiling.
I am doing this by myself, and only when I have 1/2 an hour here and there, that is why it is taking me so long. 

I am cutting the pieces in the ceiling in order to lift them.
I am almost done the ceiling. I have two rooms. One approx. 30 feet by 20. the other room 12 by 20.

(I have a lot of taping to do.... 

The walls should go up faster as I don't have to cut them. Hubby is going to help me lift them.

Maybe by end of 08


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

I understand . 

The lift makes the ceilings easy but then you can't work a 1/2 hour at a time. I basically worked on it all day every day except Christmas for 10 days to hand 63 boards and tape it all. You're area is about the same as mine. 1 room is basically the same size, the other is bigger but I also have about a 100 or 150 square foot lobby area + a seperate laundry + a small walk in closet. Which reminds me, the closet is the only thing I HAVEN'T taped!


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Is taping as difficult as they say it is?
Because I have a lot of taping to do, and if it really is that difficult then I will do a nice textured ceiling. :yes:


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

I didn't find it particulary hard, it's a LOT of work but just keep at it . 

The field joints are pretty easy, just spread the mud (thin a 5 gallon bucket with 1 cup of water and mix with one of those drill driven paddle mixers) apply the tape then squeegy the tape hard with your knife so the mud comes out both sides. Corners are harder but I cheated, they sell a metal inside corner bead with a paper face - for me that was much easier than the regular paper tape folded in the middle. 

I'd say it took me about 30 or 35 hours to tape it all which includes first coating all the screw heads.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks for the info.

Hopefully soon I will try it out.

Also, I see that you used metal corner beading. I have seen plastic also.

Any advantages to using one over the other?

I would think plastic would be easier? 

I have seen those paper faced metal beading, and I would think that you would have to have very level and straight corners? I don't think all of mine are really that straight and level and professional looking, so I imagine I would have a harder time with the paper faced metal strips.

Do they have smaller attachements to put on the drill to mix the mud, because I cannot mix a very large quantity, as I only have short little periods of time that I can work on it. 

Maybe, I will purchase a cheap cake mixer. :jester: ( All kidding aside, I bet that would work?)


Thanks for offering your advice. 

I look forward to your pics of your basement.


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Let's see, no opinion on the metal vs. plastic corner bead. I can't see one being easier or not than the other to apply although you can use different techniques with the plastic. I nailed the metal on, with plastic you have the option of spray glue. I suppose plastic probably cuts a little easier with something less than the tin snips required for metal, the edges are probably not as sharp either - the metal is like a razor until it's nailed in place. 

On the inside corner bead it's actually the opposite, the metal part keeps your corner very straight so the bead will bridge over gaps and give a better looking corner. At least that's what I found, my corners weren't perfect but they look pretty darned good now . 

I'd still buy the full 5 gallon pails, mix it up and use what you need. When you're done for the evening scrape down the bucket then pour a few cups of water on top to form a seal. Next time you are ready to work pour the water off, give it a little mix and off you go. Also, if you will be working short periods every day or two or three fill an empty 5 gallon pail or two with water. When you finish for the night just drop your tools in the water, no need to spend 15 minutes cleaning everything. Only works with stainless steel blades and plastic handles though:thumbsup: 

Cake mixer? Maybe, the mud is aweful thick to start with. They do sell a manual masher style, you probably have one of those in the kitchen too


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Thanks for the advice md.

Especially about the corners. I think I may try that.
Also, for the advice about the mud.
What I was thinking of doing is mixing a small amount as needed, but your method seems a lot easier.

But I am still far away from taping.


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Moving along and getting close to finished. I rented one of those Porter Cable sanders to clean up the tape job. 10 gallons of primer (1 coat!) and 10 gallons of color (5 per coat) later it was ready for trim in the main rec room this weekend. I have the vinyl for the craft room / laundry room combo still to install. I spent a few hours installing lights this week and need to get the electrician back to install the sockets and heat em up!


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## perpetual98 (Nov 2, 2007)

Lookin good! We moved into our house in October and it has a full unfinished basement. The #1 goal was to finish it and use it as livable space. Money and other projects have bumped that down the list, so now it's one of those "when time and money permit" type projects that could take years.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Looks great !


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Thanks 

Just a couple more doors to hang plus some vinyl on the floor and my work is done...


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Looks great! I bet your feeling pretty good about being so close to done. But now what are you going to do on weekends!


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## Demochick (Jan 19, 2008)

Looks awesome, Im not looking forward to all the drywall work though...


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Thanks, got the vinyl in today and hung the last two doors. A bit more trim to finish tomorrow then I'll snap a few more pics.


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## big daddy-o (Jan 2, 2008)

Mdbuilder said:


> Thanks, got the vinyl in today and hung the last two doors. A bit more trim to finish tomorrow then I'll snap a few more pics.


Is that wood in the other pics? or vinyl? if wood how did you secure the last pc.? looks good


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

It is laminate from Lowes. It's a floating floor with a vapor barrier underneath, each board is 3 strips wide so about 8 or 9 inches wide "click together"


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## big daddy-o (Jan 2, 2008)

Mdbuilder said:


> It is laminate from Lowes. It's a floating floor with a vapor barrier underneath, each board is 3 strips wide so about 8 or 9 inches wide "click together"


ok but what about the last pc? how doyou keep it togather ?


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Each board interlocks, when you get to the end the last piece will generally be too wide so you rip it down on the table saw to a width about a 1/2" short of the wall. Then just engage the joint and fold it down in place with some general tapping, wrestling and maybe a curse or two . Base and quarter round covers the gap. In my case I laid the floor before the drywall so in large areas where I did a good job just the thickness of the drywall and the base board was enough. On the outside wall I drifted out a bit too far on one end so I had to add the quarter round. Doorways get T moldings or transition strips.


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Got the vinyl down over the weekend along with most of the trim, painted the french door and removed the masking. I have a bit more base molding still to do and then about a million nail holes to fill before the trim gets it's finish coat of paint


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## presentationma (Feb 3, 2008)

Its a nice to see u r frames they are really nice.


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## raam (Feb 11, 2008)

Now this is inspiration !!!

Very nice job.


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

Thanks . 

I did a little caulking and nailhole filling on the base and door trim over the weekend. Probably about 50% finished with that. The pressure is off now that the major construction is finished, it's basically usable space as I go about handling the final details...


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## Mdbuilder (Sep 30, 2007)

It's been a while! Still haven't finished all the nail hole filling and trim painting but I did get the electrician back to heat up all the new outlets and had the inspecter back last week to sign off on the final:thumbup:

This weekends project was the first of 3 bookcases to organize things. Got one done today, 3/4" birch ply for the carcass, 1/4 luan with one good side for the back. A little 3/4" poplar ripped down to cover the front edges then a little roundover work with the router and some crown added at the top.


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