# Retaining wall for garden on sloped yard



## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

The simplest type of retaining wall to construct uses segmental concrete block. For a three foot tall wall, this is pretty simple, you typically prepare a solid base (can be natural soil, a little compaction is typically necessary), install the blocks (follow manufacturer's directions), install drainage tile if needed (usually is necessary), then backfill according to manufacturer instructions.

Course you haven't mentioned what type of wall you are constructing, other than to mention that you already bought the supplies. Perhaps you can tell us what you had in mind, as the procedure is quite different for railroad ties, stone, or a poured concrete wall.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Sorry forgot to mention that. They are interlocking blocks. I also purchased pavers base and backfill gravel. As well as a perforated pipe for drainage.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Then you are all set to go. I would cut the slope back to vertical, gives you a little more room, but it really depends on what you looking to accomplish. If you cut the soil back, you need to remove manufacturer recommend amount of soil from the uphill side of the wall, and replace with gravel. Typically for a 3 foot high wall, you will need about 1.5 feet of gravel behind the wall, but check manufacturer's specs.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

I dont see how a ditch witch will help. A dingo might be alright if you have sandy dirt. Around me I would only think of doing it with a backhoe. I have alot of rock.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Oh ditch witch makes a dingo like skid steer. I have rather soft dirt no real rock.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

you will have alot of dirt left over like dump truck loads so keep that in mind


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

I think you need something bigger like a bobcat. It would take days with a dingo so you wont be saving money wise.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

The extra dirt I can use some to fill in some holes I have. But you are correct that's why I was wondering if option c was best. Pushing the higher part into the lower part thereby using the dirt.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

If you werent installing pavers it would be the better option but with pavers you do not want to back fill the dirt


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Are pavers the same at the big blocks with the lip in the back so they can hook?


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

No bottom is flat. There is built in spacers around edges


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Okay. I have 30 blocks made for retaining walls with the lip on the back.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

Is that the wall cap you are talking about?


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

or are you just saying retaining wall blocks have lip
What size block did you go with


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

They are called Mansfield II. Here is a link. http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com...d=4&lineId=100&productTypeId=39&productId=453

By the way thank you for all your help


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

Manufacture only recommends 30" so you're pushing it as 36" I would glue every block.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

I actually do plan on only making a 30" wall to stay with the manufactures recommendations. I was just rounding up. Is this block no appropriate for backfilling a wall because that would make my wall even lower. 

If I rent a bobcat do I need it to have treads. I liked the idea of a dingo or as i mentioned ditch witch makes one that is a little bigger and more powerful. The learning curve on them seems easier and it is smaller to move around. I figured the best way to cut into the hill go from the bottom of the hill and move up. I don't know if the bobcat will fit. I would be nervous about having the bobcat parallel to the hill for fear it may roll over. 

What do you think.

This is a link to the ditchwitch.

http://www.ditchwitch.com/sites/default/files/literature-pdfs/SK350_SK500_SK650.pdf


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

That grade may be a little to steep for someone with no experience with bob cat. It might be worth getting a quote from someone to dig it out. I dont know where you are moving to dirt too but its is going to take multiple days with a walk behind and it still is a steep slope for a walk behind


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Do you not think that I can just make a small retaining wall in front and push some dirt forward and then make another retaining wall in back. 
If i do it yah way it will be about 4yards of dirt. If I back cut all of it it will be about 8 yards of dirt.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

The attached image is what I would like to do:

Does that seem manageable. It seems like I can rent a wacker packer to compress the fill area.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

If you weren't adding pavers it would be a great idea. Even with tampering it will still settle a little or alot depending on how good you tamp it. If you add a 2' wide flower bed then start pavers you will have a better chance if you tamp it all every 6" of dirt you add.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Are you using the word paver meaning that the blocks are just stacked rather than being one unit. Can you explain the flower bed idea more. I think if I do it this way she front wall will only be a foot to a little over a foot high.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

Leonidsg said:


> Sorry forgot to mention that. They are interlocking blocks. I also purchased pavers base and backfill gravel. As well as a perforated pipe for drainage.


I thought you were installing pavers in the leveled out area. Meaning a patio


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Oh I'm sorry no I'm putting a garden there. Sorry I must have forgotten to write. My apologies.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

You said garden then you said you got pavers I got confused. Go ahead, do it that way then. Would still be a good idea to tamp down dirt make sure to leave area for gravel.


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## Leonidsg (Mar 3, 2014)

Sounds good. Sorry about the confusion. Should I get a big tamper or just a hand one. Do you still think I need a bobcat or can I get away with a smaller walk behind thing. 

Thanks for all your help. It helps me a lot.


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## JustinK (Oct 4, 2009)

Small walk behind would would probably be best with your slope and soil conditions and now less dirt removal. It is recommend that you use a Vibroplate Tamper for the footings so depending on how fast you work. I would use it on backfill too. The buck of the walk behind should do a decent job of compacting a few inches of dirt at a time.


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