# Last minute Tips for Window Replacement?



## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

Finally have some time to take off from work so i'm going to be putting in the replacement windows i purchased a month ago or so. Just making sure i'm not missing any major steps here...

The windows do have a nail flange and are vinyl.
Remove exterior/interior window trim
Remove window panes
Cut siding (cedar) 2" from window frame to reveal the existing nail flange
remove window frame
reframe rough opening if neccessary
dry test fit new window (square/plumb)
Flash bottom sill of rough opening, (4" up the sides as well)
Caulk window flange and set in place
Square/plumb and set corner nail of flange
Square/plumb again and nail off remaining, make sure window operates
Flash sides then top (piece in cedar scraps over nail flange so 1x4 trim sits flush?, flash over the cedar scrap?)
install z channel above window trim (is this neccessary on vinyl windows?) and 1x4 cedar trim
Insulate interior (low expanding foam)
Finish and trim interior

I have a fairly good grasp on this project (i hope) and have installed windows before but only new construction homes.

Feel free to ask questions and or criticize as that is why i am posting it here.

Thank you all for your help and time! :thumbsup:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

gmhammes said:


> Finally have some time to take off from work so i'm going to be putting in the replacement windows i purchased a month ago or so. Just making sure i'm not missing any major steps here...
> 
> The windows do have a nail flange and are vinyl.
> Remove exterior/interior window trim
> ...


I’m not understanding this part. You have cedar lap siding and you’re trimming with 1x over the top?


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> I’m not understanding this part. You have cedar lap siding and you’re trimming with 1x over the top?


Sorry, cedar panel siding not lap (hopefully that's correct). Basically when i cut the 2" of cedar around the window to get to the nail flange and have room for the new nail flange the 1x4 will then butt up against the window to cover that 2" however i would put the scrap 2" peices back in over the new nail flange to allow the 1x4 trim to be solid again the house and window. Hopefully that clears it up a bit. I was wondering after i piece in those 2" pieces if i should flash over those before putting the trim up.

And yes, i am putting the trim on top of the cedar, it is how it was originally done as well just with different trim.

Thank you,

-greg


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

In this case your head flashing should go over the top of the window itself and behind the paper. Besides that it sounds like you have a handle on it.

Post a few pic’s of your first one in progress, if you’re messing up I’m sure someone will shout.

The only other thing I can add is don’t set the saw to deep and cut the paper. You’re better off a little short and breaking the piece out and finish the splinters with a knife or chisel.

One more important thing, “Don’t Drop The Windows”.


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

Great point however i don't have paper behind the cedar, just 3/4" foam board but i'll make sure to set the saw low enough not to hit it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

gmhammes said:


> Great point however i don't have paper behind the cedar, just 3/4" foam board but i'll make sure to set the saw low enough not to hit it.


No paper behind the foam?


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

nope. Everything is original to te house built in 79. Is there a solution to having no paper?or can i nail the flange over the foam board?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

When I started framing houses in '73, we used foam board and sometimes foil faced cardboard..... Set the windows right on it. No b.p.
Remember your siding slope sill: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how...dows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx?nterms=63740

Be safe, Gary


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

GBR in WA said:


> When I started framing houses in '73, we used foam board and sometimes foil faced cardboard..... Set the windows right on it. No b.p.
> Remember your siding slope sill: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how...dows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx?nterms=63740
> 
> Be safe, Gary


Are you referring to the drip cap?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Install a piece of bevel siding on the sill before the flex sticky wrap. pp#2, third picture.... 

Be safe, Gary


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

OKay, found it. Thank you! Curious as to why? Just simply educating myself self, not questionning it. Also the windows will only sit about 2 inches onto the rough opening as they are still replacement windows, just with an added nail flange basically. Will the window sit on this beveled siding then? I will have to make jamb extensions to meet the inerior wall (probably just going to drywall the interior casing. 

Forsee any problems with this method?


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

Project starts tomorrow morning!


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

anymore thoughts on the beveled siding in my situation? I don't have any so would need to pick som up with i go to get the other materials.


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

So far here is what i got. No nail flange in the existing windows and after taking the trim off one side of the window is very loose.

Thoughts from here?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Looks like the windows were fastened to the framing through the brick molding. Cutting the nails on the side jambs should free up the window for removal.
Ron


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

Thanx Ron. Does the rest of my outlined plan still hold water or should i go a different route since there is no existing nail flange?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Well gmhammes, you got those windows in yet?


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

I got one in. Aside from the trimming and cleanup the window went in in about an hour (one man job). and the reason i only did one window is because i wanted to see exactly how i am going to do the jamb extenision/shadow boxes on the interior.
The window turned out great (in my opinion) I will have progress picture and final pictures posted up tonight!

-greg


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

gmhammes said:


> Thanx Ron. Does the rest of my outlined plan still hold water or should i go a different route since there is no existing nail flange?


You don't seem to have the usual window setup. Most situations have the siding on top of the window sides(or at least the nailing flanges). The drip cap is hard to see. Does in go behind the siding?
I don't see how you could apply the flex membrane around the window as it sits on the siding. The material I apply is 6" wide, but it goes under the siding, not on top. With the prevoius window install, you were relying on the caulking on the trim to keep water out. From the looks of the window, it seemed to do the job. Hope you're as lucky with the rest of the windows.
If it were my house, I would remove the siding and do a traditional window install.
Ron


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## gmhammes (Jan 10, 2010)

Tell me about it! i was anticipating either a nail flange or at least some type of flashing but no! You are correct, much like an exterior brick molded door are how the windows were cunstruction and set on top of the siding.

I did go ahead and cut the siding, flashed properly and installed 4" cedar trim to cover the expose flashing tape. I'm not saying the install is perfect but i think for what i was work with it was good. I'm definately sure that the new windows are more water proof than the old ones and they lasted a good 30 years. Oh and the rest of the windows in the house are exactly the same setup and size (which was nice when ordering them)

I'll have picture of the progress and finished progress up tonight. Feel free to nit pick my work once they are posted!


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