# Soffit install issue at top of gable end



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Cap the bottom of the board and run the soffit up to it.
Cut a tapered piece of wood so the bottom of the eave is even with the board. At the wall lower the J channel down to level with the board.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I framed the outside edges with 2x as well and finished with sheet metal cover, bent in for the soffit. I assume the same for you since roof drip edge is tight to the 2x. Then, bending my own, U channel for the bottom edge, middle sheet cut/bent to cover the front as well as flashing, then the rake covers can overlap in the peak.

Also you can cut away the excess carefully, leaving a square edge, without the loss of bearing cap.


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## hkstroud (Mar 17, 2011)

I would get out my multi-tool and trim the bottom edge of the ridge beam.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

I'd bend a piece of aluminum coil but the multi tool idea would work too. 

Those shingles appear to hang over awfully far.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Cut the ridge beam. Not holding anything up put there anyway. Ron


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## myboynoy (Feb 15, 2013)

Thanks all for your feedback. I will cut the bottom of the ridge board with a reciprocating saw.

Also, I'm not done cutting the shingles so that's why it appears to be overhanging too far.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

myboynoy said:


> Thanks all for your feedback. I will cut the bottom of the ridge board with a reciprocating saw.
> 
> Also, I'm not done cutting the shingles so that's why it appears to be overhanging too far.



Getting reciprocating on that is going to be tough. Might be easier to cut it out if that's the tool you have to use. 

The shingles should hang over a little. Check the instructions on the package to see how far.


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## myboynoy (Feb 15, 2013)

BIG Johnson said:


> Getting reciprocating on that is going to be tough. Might be easier to cut it out if that's the tool you have to use.
> 
> The shingles should hang over a little. Check the instructions on the package to see how far.


I guess I'll need to purchase a multi-tool. :surprise:


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

I see what looks like drip rail there under the shingles, but the drip rail should be applied over the rake fascia, not over the bare 2x framing. Above the soffits that are there, I see roof sheathing, so the ventilated soffits aren't going to be doing much.


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## myboynoy (Feb 15, 2013)

ChuckF. said:


> I see what looks like drip rail there under the shingles, but the drip rail should be applied over the rake fascia, not over the bare 2x framing. Above the soffits that are there, I see roof sheathing, so the ventilated soffits aren't going to be doing much.


I'm going to be drilling a few 1/2" holes on the rafters that are on the edge of the building. The vented soffits should provide airflow into the building through those holes. I have aluminum fascia covers that will go over the 2x and under the drip edge.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

No need for venting there. venting is from the lower soffet on the side of the building to the peak inside. But I agree the trim board should have been installed. The longer it is not installed the more the shingles will sag making it harder to do.


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## myboynoy (Feb 15, 2013)

Nealtw said:


> No need for venting there. venting is from the lower soffet on the side of the building to the peak inside. But I agree the trim board should have been installed. The longer it is not installed the more the shingles will sag making it harder to do.


I didn't put a fascia board there since I am using an aluminum fascia cover - http://www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-x-12-ft-White-Aluminum-Fascia-Trim-77103/204103285


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

myboynoy said:


> I didn't put a fascia board there since I am using an aluminum fascia cover - http://www.homedepot.com/p/6-in-x-12-ft-White-Aluminum-Fascia-Trim-77103/204103285


There you go, good answer.:smile:


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