# Trane XE80 (Pressure Switch Indicator Err)



## cherande (Mar 11, 2007)

Hello all:
I recently shut off power to the main grid on my house and I think I may have fried a switch or fuse on the furnace when the flipping the circuits back on because I get a 3-blink indicator on the furnace and the igniter won't auto-start the furnace; I have to manually flip the toggle on the unit to start it every time the temperature in the house falls below the programmable setting. So I call the company who installed the furnace and ask for a maintenance call, and $150 later, still no fix, plus the Trane tech says there is nothing wrong. So I figure I'll fix it myself and look for information. I find a Tri-Delta Disk and swap it out and still no fix. Then I read some more information in forums on the internet and buy a Draft Inducer and complete the install and NO fix; 3-blink indicator remains AND an added vibrating NOISE. So I decide to go the logical route and figure it's the black, rectangular Texas Instruments PO2 (INT17L-1701 L170F-30 C340056P02 9412) panel that connects to the Tri-Delta disk, however I can't find any information about the part on the internet. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks! http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=18


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

I would check to see what is blocking the vent pipe, this time of year critters are busy building nest. 1 other thing , the clear tube behind the pressure switch, rheem that hose and fitting (FURNACE SIDE NOT PRESSURE SWITCH SIDE) with a pipe cleaner or small gauge (14 or 16) wire.Also thanks for the picture, a picture is worth a thousand words.


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## cherande (Mar 11, 2007)

*Thanks for the comments!*

Harley: I purchased ionizers because I was smelling a bit of mold in the basement in the last couple of months and it has been raining heavily. And after reading your comment, I look to the chimney trying to figure out what could cause the mold, then I figure maybe a squirrel got caught in a tight spot and couldn't get out. And I figure maybe its a dead squirrel because I trapped (2)( -- and released) yesterday that have been scratching around in the attic for I don't know how long. So I posted a couple more pictures because I'm not quite sure about furnace duct cleaning. That is, if I open a pipe to the chimney from the furnace in a closed system, does it cause havoc to the gas-operated water tank that also connects to the chimney? I'm guessing the furnace guys have to be sure about this stuff, hence the high price ticket for servicing. And I have a keen sense of the dangers of mold and gas leaks and fire. What to do? Hmmm. The mold may be very, very bad, however, I don't notice a really strong moldy smell or a really dark patch growing about the walls. The mold is there though because I can occasionally get a whiff of it. And it's not so good. Any ideas? And thanks very much for your input! I reemed the opening through the clear flexible tubing. It was definitely mucked up with something. And I replaced the new Fasco Inducer Motor with the original Fasco Inducer Draft Motor and fixed the annoying buzzing. I noticed the new motor doesn't spin uniformily. That is, the spinning disk warbles unevenly when spinning or turning, unlike the original motor that spins evenly and consistently. I also cleaned up the white deposits on the original motore before putting it back in place in the furnace. Finally I didn't add that I had ceiling water repair done upstairs near the chimney last summer (2006) and about 2 or 3 weeks ago (February 2007), there was about a 1-inch patch of mold in the corner between the chimney and ceiling. I bleached it and painted over once it dried. So maybe I need to venture into the chimney somehow and clean out whatever is mucking it up ASAP. Tips on removing the furnace duct to the chimney would be helpful. And thanks very much!
http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=19
http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=20
http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=21


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## hvactech (Mar 11, 2007)

Make sure you didn’t cross the live and the neutral wires and the furnace has a good ground connection.


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## cherande (Mar 11, 2007)

HVACtech: Thanks for the input! I was sure to route the wires as originally set: ground to metal plate, Live (black), Neutral (white) matching with coupler (black to black; white to white). Here's a pic: http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=22 And by the way, I removed the potpourri pot from the kitchen outlet as the bubbling reduced the liquid by 3/4 within 4 hours (3x quicker than it normally would do so). And I checked all the breaker switches on the electric panel. None seem to be off, however, some are NOT upgraded, so these switches are loose and can appear to look as if they're on. Anyway, all looks ok. And I'm glad I removed the hot pot from the line!


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## harleyrider (Feb 20, 2007)

cherande said:


> Harley: I purchased ionizers because I was smelling a bit of mold in the basement in the last couple of months and it has been raining heavily. And after reading your comment, I look to the chimney trying to figure out what could cause the mold, then I figure maybe a squirrel got caught in a tight spot and couldn't get out. And I figure maybe its a dead squirrel because I trapped (2)( -- and released) yesterday that have been scratching around in the attic for I don't know how long. So I posted a couple more pictures because I'm not quite sure about furnace duct cleaning. That is, if I open a pipe to the chimney from the furnace in a closed system, does it cause havoc to the gas-operated water tank that also connects to the chimney? I'm guessing the furnace guys have to be sure about this stuff, hence the high price ticket for servicing. And I have a keen sense of the dangers of mold and gas leaks and fire. What to do? Hmmm. The mold may be very, very bad, however, I don't notice a really strong moldy smell or a really dark patch growing about the walls. The mold is there though because I can occasionally get a whiff of it. And it's not so good. Any ideas? And thanks very much for your input! I reemed the opening through the clear flexible tubing. It was definitely mucked up with something. And I replaced the new Fasco Inducer Motor with the original Fasco Inducer Draft Motor and fixed the annoying buzzing. I noticed the new motor doesn't spin uniformily. That is, the spinning disk warbles unevenly when spinning or turning, unlike the original motor that spins evenly and consistently. I also cleaned up the white deposits on the original motore before putting it back in place in the furnace. Finally I didn't add that I had ceiling water repair done upstairs near the chimney last summer (2006) and about 2 or 3 weeks ago (February 2007), there was about a 1-inch patch of mold in the corner between the chimney and ceiling. I bleached it and painted over once it dried. So maybe I need to venture into the chimney somehow and clean out whatever is mucking it up ASAP. Tips on removing the furnace duct to the chimney would be helpful. And thanks very much!
> http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=19
> http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=20
> http://groups.msn.com/123download/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=21


 


Did you do as I instructed and clean/reem out the tube behind the pressure switch?

If the answer is yes and you are still getting a code 3, the next thing to do is to remove the flue pipe and breifly run the furnace........if the code 3 is gone then shut down the furnace and call in a chimney sweep, and do not run the furnace any longer until the chimney is clear.


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## cherande (Mar 11, 2007)

Harley: I did as you instructed, and cleaned/reemed the tubing. I'm concerned about removing the flue pipe while the furnace is on PLUS there's another flue going to the gas-powered water heater. Is that a problem? When I turn the furnace off, then on again, it will light-up within about 2 minutes and NO code 3 (just normal 1-2 blinking). Code 3 occurs only when the furnace needs to auto-restart (after the temp drops). I'll call the chimney sweep tomorrow. And thanks very much for the input!


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## williamgeorge (Sep 25, 2008)

Yes, this definitely sounds like it needs 3" vent pipe. Most likely you're getting the pressure switch error when the furnace goes into 2nd stage heating, thus requiring more allowance for venting. If it's getting "choked", the 2nd stage PS will open. When you reset the furnace, it'll work ok while in low-fire mode, then usually cut-out when it goes to high-fire. Alas, the colder it is, the more times it's going to go to 2nd stage heating, therfore you'll notice this problem occur more than when the weather outside is frightful, not delightful! 
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williamgeorge


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