# How to install a railing on existing paver steps?



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I would remove the affected pavers, and provide an adequate footing for which to properly secure the railing. Then, you could leave the concrete low enough to be able to cut the pavers to conform to the posts, or, depending on the style and color of pavers, you could possibly bring your concrete level with the top of the pavers, and finish it (the concrete) to the shape of the removed pavers.


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## II Weeks (Jan 6, 2009)

sand only or a cement foundation under those pavers?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

you can't because the pavers will likely NOT resist any force applied to the handrail,,, you CAN diamond core drill the paver(s) & underlying conc step then set the railing(s) into hi-strength grout,,, for ***** & giggles, i'd silicone the affected paver(s) to the conc. 

it might be possible to drill the holes w/rotary hammer drill but i doubt it'd be successful


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

itsreallyconc said:


> you can't because the pavers will likely NOT resist any force applied to the handrail,,, you CAN diamond core drill the paver(s) & underlying conc step then set the railing(s) into hi-strength grout,,, for ***** & giggles, i'd silicone the affected paver(s) to the conc.
> 
> it might be possible to drill the holes w/rotary hammer drill but i doubt it'd be successful


I wish I knew what the ***** meant! OK, a radical solution. How about putting a 2x4pt (ground contact) block under the pavers to coincide with each base bracket. Then drill thru the pavers and attach the bracket with a lag screw into the block. That would raise the tensile strength of the paver where it was needed the most. Make any sense?


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

shi*s :wink: its getting thru the pavers that's the problem,,, unless you diamond core it, the conc's extremely likely to shatter,,, suppose its possible to use a 540rpm 1/2" drill & proper size carbide-tooth'd ( on the circumference ),,, of course diamond coring will work but at what expense to the op ?

anything that tests paver adhesion at underlying block will overcome the paver's force resistance im-n-s-h-fo :yes: its not paver tensile strength - it is the strength of the railing to provide support to fat/skinny granny the 1 time she needs it,,, i don't want to rely on a paver,,, even the block's ability to withstand force isn't great, its still much better than a paver. think of this railing as a large lever & it makes more sense


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## GB Greg (Oct 14, 2010)

DexterII said:


> I would remove the affected pavers, and provide an adequate footing for which to properly secure the railing. Then, you could leave the concrete low enough to be able to cut the pavers to conform to the posts, or, depending on the style and color of pavers, you could possibly bring your concrete level with the top of the pavers, and finish it (the concrete) to the shape of the removed pavers.


 
Dexter is on the right track. :thumbsup:

I assume since these are steps, they are pavers over concrete. Just guessing but are they full brick (3" thick) pavers, or thin brick (< 1") that are cemented or stuck with thin-set.

In either case, you'll want to fasten the rail to the concrete steps, not the paver themselves. If they're 3" thick brick pavers, you'll need to drill through those and in to the concrete. Since you're going to drill 5" or so, you'll need thicker bolts, say 3/8". If they are 1" pavers, 3" or so bolts and you can use 1/4". 

Mod remove this if it's not appropriate. Not offering this as a type of hand rail, just a method of attachment. http://www.ehow.com/how_4530682_make-handrail-existing-concrete.html

We would be able to give better suggestions if we had more information. A picture is worth a thousand words after all.


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