# Having Issues with trim and cornerbead, need some advice.



## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Remove the corner bead and drywall where ever you need trim. You could also use longer nails and PL adhesive, but I'd go with the first option if it was my place


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## Augie Dog (Oct 22, 2009)

Sounds like they want to apply casing to a drywall wrapped opening.
That is pretty bush league but can be done easily.

Your concern about shooting through the corner bead should be shelved. No worries there. But there is not much to nail to behind it. 

If you end up doing it this way, I would suggest A small bead of panel adhesive on the inside edge of the casing and "pinch nail" at that edge. That is where you alternate the angle of the nails so they have some holding power till the glue sets. The outside edge of the casing will have solid wood to nail into.

If you leave a 1/4" reveal between the casing and the corner bead it will resemble a normal wood wrapped opening after you paint the trim and drywall return with the trim color.

The best thing to do is tear out the corner bead and drywall wrap and trim it with wood extension jambs and casing. Much better in the long run.

Have fun and be safe


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## loneframer (Mar 27, 2009)

Be careful, shooting through bead is not a big issue, but hitting a drywall nail or screw could make you wish you tried something else.:thumbsup: I have a friend who fish hooked a nail and stuck himself to the wall through his index finger.:huh:


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## Augie Dog (Oct 22, 2009)

loneframer said:


> Be careful, shooting through bead is not a big issue, but hitting a drywall nail or screw could make you wish you tried something else.:thumbsup: I have a friend who fish hooked a nail and stuck himself to the wall through his index finger.:huh:


Ah ya powder puff:no: 

That could happen anytime. :laughing:


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## loneframer (Mar 27, 2009)

Augie Dog said:


> Ah ya powder puff:no:
> 
> That could happen anytime. :laughing:


 Not really. After several mere flesh wounds, I learned that your body parts need to be at least 1.5 times the length of the fastener away from the business end of the nail gun.:laughing:


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## Augie Dog (Oct 22, 2009)

loneframer said:


> Not really. After several mere flesh wounds, I learned that your body parts need to be at least 1.5 times the length of the fastener away from the business end of the nail gun.:laughing:


 What I meant was that you could hit a drywall nail anytime doing trim. 

Good safety tip on your body position as it pertains to the length of the fastener.:thumbsup:

You are still a patsy though:laughing:


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## spiral (Jan 14, 2009)

Don't do it!
They will change their minds again.

Spiral


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

I figured you were putting in a frame as well as trim around the doors and window. If you're not, then as was suggested, glue and nail. Only thing is, you're likely to chip the plaster off the corner bead


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Augie Dog said:


> What I meant was that you could hit a drywall nail anytime doing trim.
> 
> Good safety tip on your body position as it pertains to the length of the fastener.:thumbsup:
> 
> You are still a patsy though:laughing:


I think you mean, "pansy", unless he was the one holding the trim for the shooter.
Ron


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## loneframer (Mar 27, 2009)

Augie Dog said:


> You are still a patsy though:laughing:





Ron6519 said:


> I think you mean, "pansy", unless he was the one holding the trim for the shooter.
> Ron


 You guys are about to get Pimpframer slapped:laughing:


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## Augie Dog (Oct 22, 2009)

Oh boy:thumbup: 

Can we post up some more pictures of you? I have a couple.:laughing:


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## loneframer (Mar 27, 2009)

Augie Dog said:


> Oh boy:thumbup:
> 
> Can we post up some more pictures of you? I have a couple.:laughing:


:no:Not a good idea.:whistling2:


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Sounds like you ladies know each other!


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## loneframer (Mar 27, 2009)

mrgins said:


> Sounds like you ladies know each other!


 Augie's my dog.:laughing:


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## KidKid (Dec 1, 2010)

Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. Currently in Carpentry pre-apprenticeship and still trying to build my knowledge around odd circumstances like this one. 

One more question. Would you guys suggest using an 18 gauge brad nailer, or a 16 gauge finishing nailer? If so what length of nail? Also, any glue recommendations? A little nervous of PL'ing it on there in-case it ever has to be replaced.


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## rapidfit (Dec 8, 2010)

*Trim over cornerbead*

I used 1/2" wood corner trim over the drywall corner, construction adhesive and a few mechanical fasteners to hold. The opening should be framed with wood and the drywall over it. I then set the casing with a suitable reveal.

I have had good luck with locktite power-grab adhesive. Good holding power, water cleanup. When you get some on the trim just take a wet rag and wipe it off. I would use a 18ga brad nailer and 1 1/2" brads. It should go into the corner with no problems. You want it to penetrate the corner bead and into the wood framing behind it. Same for the casing but maybe a little longer fasteners...

Using the wood corner trim over the drywall corner bead will help preserve the integrity of the corner should you ever replace the casing....


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

KidKid said:


> Just wanted to thank everyone for their help. Currently in Carpentry pre-apprenticeship and still trying to build my knowledge around odd circumstances like this one.
> 
> One more question. Would you guys suggest using an 18 gauge brad nailer, or a 16 gauge finishing nailer? If so what length of nail? Also, any glue recommendations? A little nervous of PL'ing it on there in-case it ever has to be replaced.


No glue is needed. The length of nail depends on the thickness of the trim and drywall, etc. You want the nail(either guage is fine) to sink into the framing 2/3 of the nail depth. If the combined sheetrock and trim equals 1", I'd use a 2 1/2" nail.
Ron


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## Nucon (Dec 8, 2010)

*No Problem*

KKid, This is very simple. No need to stress. 

Use a trim nailer using 16ga 2"+ nails, you'll have no problems. The force of the nail will push through the metal bead, drywall and into the framing member in the wall. 

No glue is needed. No glue is needed. No glue is need. Got it? 

More than likely the metal corner bead is 1-1/4" wide. If the walboard was installed properly any nail/screw used to attach the wallboard should be behind this metal corner bead. If you nail 1-1/2" back from the corner you'll miss the metal bead/nails/screws, hopefully. I say hopefully because I dont know if the bead and board was installed properly.

Remember to keep you hands away from the nailing area by at least 12" if possible. If a nail happens to become exposed after you shoot it the last thing you want is it to go into your hand. Use eye protection as well.


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