# How to get that really thin line of caulk



## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I have tried and the fact is Im just not good at caulking. That doesn't stop me though! But it looks like a 10 yo did the caulking.

I have the tubes that fit in that flimsy gun. Its awkward to use, but Ill manage. Im getting ready to caulk my bathroom sink. How do you get a thin line of caulk? If I don't cut a big pc off the tip of tube of caulk it doesn't want to come out. Then a fat line comes out. I try to wipe as I go and it smears on the counter then my hands end up covered.

You wouldn't think it would be that hard.

Thanks


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Are you talking about the sink or back splash? Kitchen and bath counters and such are one of the few places I tape off to caulk.

Those $5 guns are junk imo.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

You want to cut the tip as small as possible at an approx. 45 degree angle. then squeeze the trigger as you move the gun. then go over it with a wet finger. You can also use blue tape on both sides of the joint then caulk use wet finger then pull up the tape.

The biggest mistake most make is cutting the tip way too large. And on guns a drip less is also a feature to look for. What that means is _MOST of the time when you release the trigger it will stop._


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

A trick that i use is use a small putty knife, round one corner of the putty knife slightly, apply the caulk the with the rounded corner of the putty knife in the corner where you applied the caulk. Run the knife along the caulked corner keeping the knife in contact with each side of the corner. Wipe the excess from the putty knife as it accumulates and continue until all is done. You will get a great bead without any over run. 

Be ready with a damp cloth to wipe the counter top of any film left behind just don't touch the corner with the rag and mess up the caulk. I have done this for years and have great results. If you do allow the caulk film to dry, use a gum eraser after the caulk bead has totally cured so the residue won't get in the caulk. If you do that before the caulk has fully dried the residue will get in the wet caulk. 

If you get a black mark on your counter top, use a dab of caulk on your finger and rub the black mark, it will take it right off.

Be careful trying this with a painted wall, some of the paint is very unforgiving and this method will sometimes mess it up. If you do try this on a painted wall, do not use a metal putty knife.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I appreciate the hints.

Also how do you seal those tubes of caulk? Mine didn't come with a cap and ones I used last yr are plugged up and I havent been able to unplug them.

Thanks

PS. Yes, Im caulking the backsplash


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Startingover said:


> PS. Yes, Im caulking the backsplash


On those I run blue tape on either side of the joint leaving maybe an 1/8-3/16" gap. Run a bead just barely enough to cover, smooth out with a wet finger, immediately pull the tape and then "very lightly" smooth with the wet finger again.

Factory perfect every time (works for me anyway).

As I said before only certain areas get the tape treatment.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Try using a wire nut on the tip to seal it.
Taping it just going to lift off some of the caulking when it's peeled off and leave a line that needs to be wiped off and waste expensive tape.
There's no need to have the caulk all over the wall and the back splash. Only need to fill the small crack.
The main trick is not applying to much. Tiny hole in the tip, light pressure on the trigger.
I use one of those sponges with sponge on one side and Scotch Brite pad on the other and a small bucket of water.
Get it damp and it wipes the excess right off.
A whole room does not take me more then about 15min.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Startingover said:


> I appreciate the hints.
> 
> Also how do you seal those tubes of caulk? Mine didn't come with a cap and ones I used last yr are plugged up and I havent been able to unplug them.
> 
> ...



A small nail inserted into the opening then a piece of tape over that works pretty good. 
A wire nut can work for a cap also.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Buy an Albion 139, cut the tip at about a 10 degree angle gun and move. Now here is the big one. Buy a couple of round nosed spatulas and peel the excess off. You do not "Pull" the spatula, you peel with it, so it produces a perfect cove, and the excess runs up onto the spatula. You will not believe the difference some pro tools, and the right approach makes. I screwed up the application of sealants for years until I watched a pro at work. Its like a light went on.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

$32 for a caulking gun?


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> $32 for a caulking gun?


Yup, and you will only need the one for the remainder of your life. The thumb latch immediately stops the flow of sealant. The other thing to consider is the cost of sealant nowadays. Good sealant is not cheap, and cheap sealant is not worth it. 

I have two 139's. They were around ten bucks when I bought them, both still work perfectly. That should tell you something. 

You will know a craftman by his tools. (And I am not referring to Crapsman tools) LOLOL


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

For silicone--you need a bottle of 'Greased Lightning' spray cleaner---

Apply your thin bead of caulk ,making sure that you don't leave any voids---

Quickly spray the wet silicone with the soapy cleaner--spray your finger--and tool the joint---the silicone will not stick to the soapy surface--neat--and quick--


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