# How to correct this drywall patch?



## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

In the Plaster trade we would use say a eight (8) foot straight edge and feather it out 4 foot either side of the high spot. Also depending how much it is out of plane we may even go 8 ft. either side of the high area.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

ClarenceBauer said:


> In the Plaster trade we would use say a eight (8) foot straight edge and feather it out 4 foot either side of the high spot. Also depending how much it is out of plane we may even go 8 ft. either side of the high area.


If I mess that up, wouldn't my whole wall look terrible?


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Don't know how bad you could or would mess up but what does the wall look to you now is it messed up ?
You need pratice to make perfect.
In stead of the straight edge I referenced see if you can find a SLICKER you can find this tool at most places that sell plaster products.
Or go to the ToolPro catalog page # 27 Item number 5764 or the Kraft Tool catalog Page # 113 Item # PL695 both of these tools will make flatting the wall a little simpler. Are very light weight length is 42 inches.
If you select the proper material to be applied no problem just remove it wipe the wall down with water & try again.


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## farmerjohn1324 (Jul 28, 2015)

ClarenceBauer said:


> Don't know how bad you could or would mess up but what does the wall look to you now is it messed up ?
> You need pratice to make perfect.
> In stead of the straight edge I referenced see if you can find a SLICKER you can find this tool at most places that sell plaster products.
> Or go to the ToolPro catalog page # 27 Item number 5764 or the Kraft Tool catalog Page # 113 Item # PL695 both of these tools will make flatting the wall a little simpler. Are very light weight length is 42 inches.
> If you select the proper material to be applied no problem just remove it wipe the wall down with water & try again.


Ok.

Yes, it's messed up. Hard to see in the pic because of the paint.


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

The goal with drywall is not flat, it's the appearance of flat. Short of the relatively uncommon level 5 finish, drywall walls are not flat but any high spots have been feathered out far enough that the eye still sees it as flat. In your case, either the spot is too high or it needs to be feathered out further.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Hard to see in the picture, but at this point pretty much all you can do is mud the patch out wider (or feather it as stick\shift said) to make it "blend" in. A lot of times folks want to pile on a bunch of mud to "get it done", then sand it. It looks smooth, but it's not until the paint hits it that reality sets in..... piling on the mud, leaves "humps/lumps" in your wall (or ceiling). I don't know how you went about this. I rarely use mesh tape on new work, but it is all I use for patches (except for inside corners). And I use "fine mesh" father that the regular mesh. It is thinner. And as Stick alluded to, the flatter you keep things, the better. Always use a setting type compound for "at least" the first coat (as per manufacturer specs). Just a thin layer to "set the tape. Next, another coat of setting compound with a broad knife (I use a 10") to cover the impression of the mesh. Then I skim with regular ready mix, double wide if needed in any areas. I use a heat gun and/or fan to speed drying so I can get patches done in just a few hours..... Best of luck!


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