# Large gap between ceiling drywall and wall



## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

Put some crown molding up.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

do you have the ceiling drywall going over the top of the wall drywall ?


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Fix'n it said:


> do you have the ceiling drywall going over the top of the wall drywall ?


 No. The drywall on the wall goes all the way up to the ceiling joists.


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Anyone? If I use mesh tape and setting compound, will it grab onto the tape and hold? Or will it fall down because the gap I'm filling is on the ceiling? Thanks.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

I would flat-tape the wall/ceiling gap with paper tape and joint compound. After that coat dries I would do a traditional 90 degree tape fold at the joint. 
You could use a fast setting compound or just regular compound, depending on your skill level, but either way take care of the gap first and then proceed as you would normally for a ceiling/wall joint.


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## StrongPointLtd1 (Jan 28, 2014)

*I agree it's best idea 110%*

Some filler then mouldings !!


sublime2 said:


> Put some crown molding up.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Another vote for Crown Molding. Since you will have issues with the mud cracking from expansion and contraction, due to hot & cold weather, I would use a Silicone based caulk, to fill that gap, so that it seals out any outside air, and keeps in the inside.

Also any outlets or junction boxes, they should also be sealed around with either DAP foam in the can, or a Silicone based caulk.


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Davejss said:


> I would flat-tape the wall/ceiling gap with paper tape and joint compound. After that coat dries I would do a traditional 90 degree tape fold at the joint.


 What do you mean by "flat-tape" ? 

Do I fill the gap before any tape goes on? If so, how do I keep the mud from falling down? Thanks.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

IMO, Dave is how I fix them. Add some screws to help hold the setting compound there, mix/apply it stiff. Dave....?

Gary


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Gary in WA said:


> IMO, Dave is how I fix them. Add some screws to help hold the setting compound there, mix/apply it stiff. Dave....?
> 
> Gary


Where do I add screws? Where the gap is runs perpendicular to the joists, so the joists are the only thing there.

My daughter wants to start taping, so I need to get this figured out. If not, we have to replace the sheet .Thanks.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Jim McC said:


> Where do I add screws? Where the gap is runs perpendicular to the joists, so the joists are the only thing there.
> 
> My daughter wants to start taping, so I need to get this figured out. If not, we have to replace the sheet .Thanks.


Where the Studs are. Hot mud may fill that gap. Try it and see how it works out.

A lot of times, yes it is easier to just trim the sheet for the angle, and replace, so that it stays a straight line. I am guessing the joists above have dropped towards one end. That really should have been fixed, before anything was done down there.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If sheet is just on the joist, add screws to the joist in the gap (every 1-1/2" apart for bond) to hold the setting mud, flat tape, then corner tape - both with paper tape.

Gary


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Gary in WA said:


> If sheet is just on the joist, add screws to the joist in the gap (every 1-1/2" apart for bond) to hold the setting mud, flat tape, then corner tape - both with paper tape.
> 
> Gary


 I can't do that. Like I said above, the gap runs perpendicular to the joists, so I just have an open area up there(between joists).


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I would slip a 1/2" x 6 x cavity width siding board or similar up/on the gap and screw through the big sheet to secure it, just for backing. Add some screws, and finish as posted. Put a couple of screws halfway in at the thick face/edge of the board to maneuver it from. Sorry about that....

Gary


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Gary in WA said:


> I would slip a 1/2" x 6 x cavity width siding board or similar up/on the gap and screw through the big sheet to secure it, just for backing. Add some screws, and finish as posted. Put a couple of screws halfway in at the thick face/edge of the board to maneuver it from. Sorry about that....
> 
> Gary


Thanks Gary. I have some scrap 1/2" OSB or plywood I can use. So once it's in place, it would be lying flat on top of the ceiling drywall, correct? So the bag mix mud will adhere to the OSB? Would 1/2" plywood work better?


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I don't see how you could use 1/2" material.You need something to support the cracked drywall above.Like maybe a 2X4 between the joist Something you can you can screw into.Then cut any loose material around the crack.Prefill with some mud.Let dry and then tape and mud as usual.


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

What cracked drywall? I don't know where you read that.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Yes, plywood is better than OSB, here. Be sure to fasten it securely. Glad we could help.

Gary


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Gary in WA said:


> Yes, plywood is better than OSB, here. Be sure to fasten it securely. Glad we could help.
> 
> Gary


 Thanks Gary. Just to make sure I understand you, the hot mud will adhere to the plywood and not fall out? The gap is on the ceiling sheet(where it meets the top of wall), NOT the top of wall.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Add a handful of screws in the ply, run them in just below the drywall surface to hot mud over.

Gary


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## Jim McC (May 22, 2013)

Gary in WA said:


> Add a handful of screws in the ply, run them in just below the drywall surface to hot mud over.
> 
> Gary


 OK thanks.


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## TotalHomeworx (Jan 18, 2014)

I would just fill it with hot mud (sheet rock 20 or 45 or 90) and mix it thick so it stays in there. Let it dry. Flat tape the ceiling (half on the ceiling half on the set hot mud) with regular compound then tape the corner with compound.


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## federer (Aug 20, 2010)

what if the ceiling drywall is extended over the top of the wall drywall


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Jim McC said:


> What cracked drywall? I don't know where you read that.


You did say gap and I said crack.I gave you good advice either way on a 5/8" GAP.


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