# Floating drywall buttjoints - Help?



## Oldman

I worked fo a GC one time who mentioned something about clips, I don't know, I always break on the stud


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## mighty anvil

Don't do it. It will crack.


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## Oldman

Never have, and it probably would


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## jrubis

I just finished my basement and floated the butt joints between joists using "Rock Splicers" they seemed to work pretty well.


http://groups.msn.com/DryWallProfessionals/drywallpics.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=4


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## Darylh

I too would never float a butt joint. 
not only will it crack but this becomes
a weak part of the wall and if anyone
or anything bumps the wall there well you know.


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## KenTheHandyMan

No way I would float a butt joint! When situations have risen (and they do from time to time) I'll install a stud so that I have the proper backing. I don't care how many clips you'd put in there. Are they like "H" clips for roofing? I don't see how they could prevent a crack if somebody bangs the wall a bit.


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## Webs

Ya I had never seen it before and I saw someone discussing it in another forum so I was curious to see if anyone else did it that way. Guess I will just stick to the basics.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

There has been some discussion about this 'Floating' over on the Contractor Chatroom in the 'Drywall forum'. 
The other method to float that has been discussed is:
Taking 4'x8' osb or plywood and ripping some 4'x 6" peices and then using these to attach (Screw) the 'floated' butt joints together.

Do I think that this is bad method or that the butt joints will crack? I have no idea. I've never seen nor heard of the results (good or bad) of anyone doing it here (N.E. region) or in my travels.

We have been in the Drywall business since 1985. We now do GC-ing also, but still run our drywall division.
We have done schools, hospitals, offices, large homes, modular construction, everything you can possibly imagine.
Our thoughts on Floating: We have never, and would NEVER, EVER float our butt joints, and would never recommend doing it. The supplier I have used since 85' has never carried those metal clips - as no subcontractors here would ever use them.
That's my 2 cents.


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## ls1chris

we float em all the time , the houses i work in start at $750k and if it cracked or split like others talk of, i would have been chased outa my builders 10 yrs ago!!!. if you have a situation where you have to float between studs, put a screw in the top and bottom of the sheet and the studs nearest to your butt joint and 3 in the field, ( between the top & bottom screw) a piece of 1x4 54" long used as backing in your "floating butt" joint and the remaining 6" hanging past is then screwed to the next run of sheets below will never crack .


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## J187

Webs - what situation are you in that you would have to float the joint? Is it one where you could just add a stud? I'm sure LSCHris has been able to do this successfully before, but it's certainly not something I would do unless I absolutely had to.


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## KUIPORNG

I read a book before talking about "Floating" in dry wall installations, but it was talking about between the "ceiling" drywall and the "corner" drywall I remember, this may be a different situation...


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## tlowe65

*Floating drywall buttjoints*

For those of you who are hesitant, try doing the floating joint the way ls1chris does. I used to think like you until I tried it. Its amazing how solid the joint is.:thumbsup:


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## 12penny

Just finishing up a 1700sf basement reno and used Trim-Tex Drywall Backer Boards throughout. Had to order them on line because they dont seem to be very popular here in Eastern Pa. Makes for a very solid joint, saves time and material. I would'nt hesitate to use them again.


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## mae-ling

Joining between the studs using some form of a 'butt Board' (not just strips of plywood or 1x4).

Homemade ones









3 bought ones









Butt boards are thicker at the edges then the center. this causes the drywall to bend a little and create a slight trough at the joint, this gives a recess much like the tapered edges for your tape and mud, giving you a flatter joint.
When you join on a stud they can be twisted, warped bowed (esp. now it seems) giving you an uneven joint.
Studs can twist after your all done taping and cause cracks.

Search Google (or bing or whatever) for butt boards, you'll learn a lot.


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## ToolSeeker

Butt boards I have used them for years, my house, my daughters house, and customers houses. To date no callbacks, they totally do away with butt joints, are easy to use, and mud just like factory seams. Go to trim tex.com they make them and you can read up on them. I have 2 cases in my garage now. Go to drywall tips at the top of this page and Willy T tells about them from a few years ago. And as far as cracking why would they crack any more than the factory seam since you do them the same way.


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## jklingel

wonderful idea. i was thinking of doing this in my garage ceiling, and am glad to know that it works. i like the idea of the poster-board shims, too; a nice touch.


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## jeffnc

Ha, it's funny how few drywall guys know how to do this. It's called back blocking. You can buy commercial products or you can make your own.

http://www.butthanger.com/butthanger/butthanger.html

On the right is a picture of Myron Ferguson's book. In the book he describes how to do this and make your own.

The advantage is perfectly flat joints, which can be important if you have a counter or something dead straight that needs to fit flush on that wall. It's impossible to make a flat butt joint on a shared stud otherwise, unless you recess that stud or something.


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