# Power Steering Flush



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Don't bother. 

I would just take it to someone that can do a proper flush by exchanging the fluid. Popping open any of those high pressure lines is a recipe for disaster. 

A proper fluid exchange and cycle of cleaner does the trick.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Yrs ago I replaced the power steering pump on the 2001 [?] Taurus my wife had. I replaced it twice because the new pump growled [2nd one did too] I learned that was a common problem with ford power steering pumps. I don't know if that would be an issue with just flushing/replacing the fluid but I'd be inclined to let a pro do it. .... although I'm not convinced it's something that needs to be done.


If I'm not mistaken it usually states on the dipstick what fluid is required.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I did this once on my 1994 Z28 Camaro and it wasn't too difficult, although it got messy... I let the hose get loose a bit at first and got some fluid on the garage floor. Not sure there is an easy answer as to how much. The systems don't really hold very much so you just need to decide how much you want to run out. A couple quarts should be enough to flush and refill. Maybe have 3 in case...


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I re-submit my recommendation above. "Cracking loose" power steering fittings on a 17 year old car is NOT advisable. You can accomplish a basically full flush and cleaning by other, not fitting loosening, methods.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I agree. But this is so much more "fun". ;-) Note I said I did this "once". But it does work, and with proper preparation could be done neatly. I agree those old fittings might be a problem but the OP can see them so maybe has some idea about that one way or another.



Windows on Wash said:


> I re-submit my recommendation above. "Cracking loose" power steering fittings on a 17 year old car is NOT advisable. You can accomplish a basically full flush and cleaning by other, not fitting loosening, methods.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

It wouldn't be the first time that someone made extra work for themselves. For the record, I have broken plenty of car stuff in an effort to do it differently...I am just trying to save someone a bit of the hassle is all.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Would sucking whatever fluid you can out of the reservoir with a draw pump, then repeating two or three times after some usage not accomplish the same thing?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

lenaitch said:


> Would sucking whatever fluid you can out of the reservoir with a draw pump, then repeating two or three times after some usage not accomplish the same thing?



Bingo. This is exactly what a BG flush system entails. Injection of cleaner, run the system, recover the old while simultaneously injecting new fluid. It accomplishes all aspects of the flush without cracking lines lose the will invariably leak.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

That's what I do these days with a "turkey baster" type thingie. I am not so much worried about my fittings but that loose hose can be hard to control and create quite a mess. Ask me how I know! I also do the same thing on the clutch master on my car since you have to remove of a bunch of stuff to get at.


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## JIMMIEM (Nov 17, 2016)

I have a 2004 Toyota Camry that has 250,000 miles. I asked my mechanic (ASE certified) about doing a power steering flush. He said that unless there is a steering problem he did not recommend flushing it because at this high mileage this process could cause problems e.g. leaks.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

He might be talking about draining it and flushing it with something to clean it out. We are pretty much talking about just replacing some of the fluid in kind which does not cause leaks.... at least in my experience.



JIMMIEM said:


> I have a 2004 Toyota Camry that has 250,000 miles. I asked my mechanic (ASE certified) about doing a power steering flush. He said that unless there is a steering problem he did not recommend flushing it because at this high mileage this process could cause problems e.g. leaks.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1 

No reason not to change the fluid. This isn't like a "sludged" engine that will fail from a flush. There isn't enough dirt on the seals that swapping the fluid or even running a cleaner would create a leak that didn't already exist. 

The reality is that power steering fluid is subjected to more abuse than any other fluid in the car.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Somewhat off topic, but when it comes to preventive maintenance, I am reminded of the part-time job I had after retirement driving for a van shuttle to Toronto airport. The guy that owned the company was tighter than bark on a tree and spent only what was necessary on his fleet of one-ton vans (except tires - I'll give him that). All were converted to propane and he didn't even think about getting rid of them until they were at least 600,000km. He would guffaw at thoughts of changing fluids other than engine oil and coolant.


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## RanK2 (Feb 19, 2020)

Have an F150 with 205K on it. Never been flushed. Don't plan to.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Changing the fluid is not ill-advised. Breaking fittings loose to do so...is.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

OK, I am going to have to use that one sometime. 



lenaitch said:


> The guy that owned the company was tighter than bark on a tree


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Windows on Wash said:


> Changing the fluid is not ill-advised. Breaking fittings loose to do so...is.



I agree. Although I don't normally change PS and tranny fluid, I now treat brake fluid as a consumable. I have the shop do our SUV and truck but do my bike every two years - takes me about half an hour.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I neglect these other fluids somewhat myself. I need to do better. I did the xfer case and rear diff on the truck early but only once... and I did the brake fluid on the truck a couple years ago when replacing the rotors. But I couldn't bleed the rear drum wheel cylinders, the screws were too corroded. I need to get new wheel cylinders and shoes and have at that some time but really, rear drums on these small pickups are pretty much good for life and could probably be let go. I hate working on drums. Been 25 years since I have done so.

Now the 2016 Vette... that does need routine brake fluid changes. The issue is that the reservoir and some lines are fairly close to the driver side header and the stuff gets cooked over time. When the color changes darker I flush it out. Only once so far but might need it later this year again.... or not since I put in better fluid.





lenaitch said:


> I agree. Although I don't normally change PS and tranny fluid, I now treat brake fluid as a consumable. I have the shop do our SUV and truck but do my bike every two years - takes me about half an hour.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

raylo32 said:


> I neglect these other fluids somewhat myself. I need to do better. I did the xfer case and rear diff on the truck early but only once... and I did the brake fluid on the truck a couple years ago when replacing the rotors. But I couldn't bleed the rear drum wheel cylinders, the screws were too corroded. I need to get new wheel cylinders and shoes and have at that some time but really, rear drums on these small pickups are pretty much good for life and could probably be let go. I hate working on drums. Been 25 years since I have done so.
> 
> Now the 2016 Vette... that does need routine brake fluid changes. The issue is that the reservoir and some lines are fairly close to the driver side header and the stuff gets cooked over time. When the color changes darker I flush it out. Only once so far but might need it later this year again.... or not since I put in better fluid.



The problem with hub brake drums on many new vehicles is they are the emergency/parking brake and, up here with salt and crud, if you don't use it at least occasionally they turn into a rusted pile-o-junk.


I know there are vacuum pumps and other devices around but I bought Speed Bleeders for my bike. They are basically a one-way valve that replace the stock bleed values. You squeeze/pump fluid out of the system while keeping the reservoir topped up with fresh stuff.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Exactly. I tell my GF to make sure to use the parking brake. Her CR/V has discs all around, but not sure if it has the little hat drum parking brake or some other design. My truck is purely drum in the rear. Old school. easier to work than those little drums but still a PITA. I need to find my old brake spoon and whatever you call those little tools that rotate and remove the shoe retaining springs.

And not just the brakes themselves but sometimes the parking brake actuating cables can rust and freeze up no matter what type of PB you have. Got to use them regularly.



lenaitch said:


> The problem with hub brake drums on many new vehicles is they are the emergency/parking brake and, up here with salt and crud, if you don't use it at least occasionally they turn into a rusted pile-o-junk.
> 
> 
> I know there are vacuum pumps and other devices around but I bought Speed Bleeders for my bike. They are basically a one-way valve that replace the stock bleed values. You squeeze/pump fluid out of the system while keeping the reservoir topped up with fresh stuff.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I have used the vac pumps but now I have a Motive power bleeder. I don't actually fill the bleeder with fluid but rather just use it as a pressurized air source. It has a cap that goes on the reservoir that seals. So you fill the reservoir, install the cap, pump up the bleeder, then go to the wheels and just crack the screws. Stop and refill the reservoir as necessary. You can put a lot of fluid in the Motive and just do it all in one go but then when done the fluid will be right to the top... and could spill and require siphoning some off. Then need to clean out the Motive. So I just pause and refill the reservoir.


Only issue is that very vehicle needs a different adapter for the reservoirs. But it works great. I still use the little vac pump on the motorcycle.


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

I would disconnect the return hose and put it in a container to catch the fluid. Then without the engine running turn the steering wheel back and forth while keeping the reservoir topped off. It will exchange most of the fluid.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

If it ain't broke, don't fix-it.

I had many of cars and never flushed the power steering fluid.


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