# LP Smart Siding with Tyvek wrapped frame



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Where is the home?

Might be a time to upgrade the insulation depending on location and current configuration. 

WRB could go directly over the studs but make sure their are rigid drip caps and flashings at all the windows, doors, seams, etc.


----------



## FamMan (Aug 2, 2015)

We're looking in SC. Yes, it probably needs new insulation. When I said "down to the studs", I meant just a plain frame. I'd like to insulate with spray foam, but haven't gotten that far yet and don't know how the cost compares to R13.

Otherwise, I would consider 4x8 foam sheeting over studs (and under tyvek) before installing the SS.

If I have it down to the studs, I'll change the window openings for standard size vinyl windows with flanges (to save $ over custom) and butt the SS against them. No flashing needed, but drip caps are a must.


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

I see no benefit in SPF (Open cell) over a well air sealed wall and batt insulation. 

If you are removing the T1-11, you will need to check with local code to make sure what sort of bracing it required and if the new siding meets those guidelines. 

What part of SC? Pretty humid down in those parts. What do the interior walls coverings consist of?

Vapor Retarder requirements and placement: http://www.naima.org/insulation-kno...nsulation/insulation-and-vapor-retarders.html

https://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCodeReqs/?state=South%20Carolina

Figure out the sheathing and bracing requirements and that will dictate what you can and cannot do sheathing wise. 

You can't put foam over the studs (rigid foam) if the sheathing is going to serve as the bracing. It defeats the purpose of the bracing.


----------



## FamMan (Aug 2, 2015)

Thanks. I had seen people mention putting a vapor barrier under drywall (inside of wall), but that ends up being the opposite of what is prescribed for SC. Tyvek is needed on the outside of the wall only.


----------

