# Uneven toilet flange



## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

Find a way to get the ABS out of there and connect properly to the PVC. If you have to you can cut the PVC pipe flush with the PVC fitting and use a PVC/ABS fitting reamer (http://www.toolsdirect.com/wheeler-.../p580017?source=gba_580017&CAWELAID=209653785) to clean out the fitting hub. You might need a good angle drill to get a good cut with the position of the fitting. First I would find out what is beyond that fitting. If it is pipe and you can cut it back far enough you can easily make the new connection.

One other thought... Try twisting that ABS fitting off... You never know, because there is no glue that works when putting ABS and PVC together it just might come apart. They do make combo glues but they are intended to glue PVC to PVC and ABS to ABS but not PVC to ABS.

Rege


----------



## meboatermike (Oct 29, 2009)

I know you do not want to but it does not look like it would take to much to pound/remove some extra concrete from that area if need be. I know (cause I have done it) here in the US, Home Depot rents good sized electric jack hammers that would make short work of that. :thumbup:


----------



## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

go just past the coupling and replace it with pvc up to floor vevel and be done with it


----------



## fulcrum (Jan 26, 2010)

I agree with Rege.
ABS and PVC are not compatible and no glue to correctly cement together.
twist the flange and it'll come off.


----------



## HandyPlumber (Aug 28, 2012)

*Misinformation...*

There are 'glues' that work for PVC and ABS applications - they are called transitional solvents. And - yes they do work... And they work very well. 

Looks like for whatever reason the plumber used a PVC coupling and a short nipple before transitioning to ABS. May have changed plans during the rough in - who knows. If you can cut the pipe downstream of this coupling - do so and dig out a little more gravel and fill around the pipe that's left. From there Bob is your uncle. 

make sure the pipe is clean using rags etc - then use an approved PVC cleaner as well - it's usually purple and the smell will knock your socks off. Then use whatever materials you want - PVC or ABS to complete the piping. Keep in mind the PVC that is used there may not be Schedule 40 it may only be sched 20 - this may be why the plumber used ABS to complete the job. If this is the case some special cheater sleeves will be needed to 'bush' a coupling. They look like a really thin coupling. 

If this piping is 3" - I would suggest using a 4x3" 90 degree elbow to go from vertical to horizontal.. this way you go 3" into the bottom (horizontal) part of the 90, the 4" out of the top. Use a short (18" or so) length of 4" pipe for the vertical part out of the 90. I would put the 4" part in first to ensure it was fully engaged and straight - then after affix the whole thing to the 3". use your level and do your best to make sure the 4" pipe is straight vertically and hold it until that glue is good and set. 

Refill and pack the soil - gravel etc. and pour your concrete. This way you can finish your concrete around the pipe and don't have to worry about the height of the glues in flange at this time.

A flush fitting floor flange (not adjustable) meant to go out side of 3" pipe will fit perfectly on the inside of 4" pipe. So what you do is cut the 4" pipe off flush with the floor and the line up your flange for the correct bolt orientation at 12" from finished wall and glue that sucker in. I always drill holes and use concrete around the flange as well for extra support. 

The other option since it is a basement is to use a brass floor flange. Cut the pipe as mentioned above and then pin in or screw down the brass flange. 

Hope it works out for you!


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

How do you find these 2 year old threads? :drink:


----------

