# Skylight shaft insulation



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Those cans needed to be I/C air tite cans. If not your going to need to come out with a box around them to seal them and keep them away from the insulation.
I would air seal around them with foam, seal any holes where the wires where run, and use blown in type insulation, not batts. No need to have a blower, just pore it around the area.


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## Mikhail (Feb 19, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Those cans needed to be I/C air tite cans. If not your going to need to come out with a box around them to seal them and keep them away from the insulation.
> I would air seal around them with foam, seal any holes where the wires where run, and use blown in type insulation, not batts. No need to have a blower, just pore it around the area.


 Thanks for info!
What would you reccomend to use on actual skylight shaft? Picture above is shown skylight shaft with recess light in it.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Rigid board installation with fiberglass or other fibrous insulation around the outside of the skylight shaft will work well.

Box in the can lights with fire rated drywall caulking and foam then insulate overtop with loose fill insulation as Joe indicated


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## Mikhail (Feb 19, 2010)

Windows on Wash said:


> Rigid board installation with fiberglass or other fibrous insulation around the outside of the skylight shaft will work well.
> 
> Box in the can lights with fire rated drywall caulking and foam then insulate overtop with loose fill insulation as Joe indicated



It looks like framing around the skylight is build from 2x4, so in order to fit batt insulation and then rigid board on top of it, I have to build additional frame at least around two of the sides. Otherwise, I won't have space for batt insulation. Is it worth to do that? What would be the other options? Maybe bat insulation and then wrap everything in reflective insulation/barrier. Something like that:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_409819-5629...rrier&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=barrier&facetInfo=
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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Radiant barrier provides zero insulation value.

Post up a picture and I will tell you how to do it but there is no reason that with some batting and rigid foam you can't get it done.

You could also just use batting with a air barrier over top (i.e. Tyvek) as well.


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## Mikhail (Feb 19, 2010)

Windows on Wash said:


> Radiant barrier provides zero insulation value.
> 
> Post up a picture and I will tell you how to do it but there is no reason that with some batting and rigid foam you can't get it done.
> 
> You could also just use batting with a air barrier over top (i.e. Tyvek) as well.


Took some pictures tonight.
1st picture is right side of the skylight shaft
2nd picture is front of the shaft with recess light
3rd picture is again right side.
I didnt took picture of left side, because is the same as right side. And back is tight space even for my hand.
My point is that framing is build from 2x4 and its not deep enough for batt insulation plus rigid on top.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Either or then.

You can cover it with batts and staple it to the surface as long as you cover with some sort of air barrier (i.e. tyvek) or just cover it with foam.

Be sure to seal all the seams first in both options.


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