# Self-adhesive joint tape?



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Professionals do not use it. Leave that garbage on the shelf where it is sitting and use regular paper tape & the proper compound. The only tape that is worth it, that has an adhesive backing is the fiberglass mesh tape, which has its purpose.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

they are both good used correctly. most pros do not use it because you have to skim it out alot wider. the mesh tape dries out quickly, when storing it put it in a ziploc bag. if you dont use paper tape properly it bubbles thats why more beginners use the mesh. to me its like a ford vs chevy debate.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.usg.com/rc/technical-art...laster-joint-reinforcement-systems-en-PM5.pdf

http://www.usg.com/rc/data-submitta...tapes-industrial-construction-data-MH1178.pdf

If it's a plaster repair; http://www.plaster-wall-ceiling-solutions.com/drywall-tape.html

Gary


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Paper for any new work (new homes, basement finish, additions, remodels). Mesh for small repairs. Be sure to use setting type compound for AT LEAST the first coat if you use mesh. Princelake, I don't quite understand your comment as to having to "skim it out a lot wider" (if it's mesh you're referring to). If anything, it makes finishing butt edges easier (which patches end up being most of the time). They don't have to be as wide due to the fact that the mesh is thinner than paper and it doesn't have a layer of mud underneath it (hence it takes more mud and a wider joint to cover properly). But for a professional, it's not an issue to finish a butt joint with paper. And I keep a roll of mesh in the toolbox for repairs (which may last 6 months or so) and it isn't stored in a ziplock bag. No issues....


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

when i put in paper tape i prefill everything with 20 or 45 then put on the paper tape so it sits flat and there is zero bubbles. then i do a skim coat with a 10" knife and thats it no real 3rd coat. for fiber tape i apply my tape put on 20 or 45 with a 6" knife. i then coat it with 45 or 90 with a 10" knife. then i use a premix compound and apply my 3rd skim coat with a 12" knife skimming it out wider. you must use different brands of fiber tape then i do. if i use fiber tape a month or older the fiber tape starts to fall off the wall before i get my mud on especially on drywall thats already been painted. it still works just more of a pain.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Well, princelake, you're not going by any of the mfgr's. procedures I'm familiar with. And NO professional pre-fills with setting compound, tapes with paper, and skims with one coat. How long have you been in the drywall business??


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i worked 5 years doing new construction doing all interior work drywall, painting, hunging doors trim, etc. and for the past 2 years ive been doing restoration work after floods and fires. drywall is not my number one trade but i do quite a bit of it. theres drywall on every jobs and always cut out and butts everywhere.


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

princelake said:


> when i put in paper tape i prefill everything with 20 or 45 then put on the paper tape so it sits flat and there is zero bubbles. then i do a skim coat with a 10" knife and thats it no real 3rd coat. for fiber tape i apply my tape put on 20 or 45 with a 6" knife. i then coat it with 45 or 90 with a 10" knife. then i use a premix compound and apply my 3rd skim coat with a 12" knife skimming it out wider. you must use different brands of fiber tape then i do. if i use fiber tape a month or older the fiber tape starts to fall off the wall before i get my mud on especially on drywall thats already been painted. it still works just more of a pain.


 
Prefilling large gaps w/ setting compound is fine. However, you should still bed your tape with all-purpose or taping compound, as these have the proper glues added in. Otherwise, you're setting your customers up for loose tape down the road.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

ive had zero issues. zero call backs.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I mostly do one-day repairs, always use paper tape with setting compound in the banjo, then setting (same 40min. again) to cover with crowned trowel, then setting (20 min.), and 40min. for the final and sometime skim (then 90). Depends on job size for drying time used. Shoot the orange-peel or knock-down with 40 min. or 90, clean the hopper immediately, LOL. Works for me. Did my house drywall repairs/new boards in '87 that way (minus the o-p or k-d and skim with drying compound to match plaster smooth finish), no cracks yet. Do what works for you.

"SHEETROCK® Brand Joint Tape is a high-strength paper tape which is lightly precreased for corner application and
designed specifically for use with SHEETROCK *Setting- or *Drying-Type Joint Compounds to provide optimum performance." From: http://www.usg.com/rc/data-submitta...tapes-industrial-construction-data-MH1178.pdf as linked above in post #4.

And from the board manufacturer; "19. Finishing of Gypsum Panel Products.
19.1 Compounds for taping and finishing shall be either drying
or setting type.

19.2.2 Setting type compounds shall be permitted to receive
additional coats as soon as material has set and before it dries
completely.

19.7.1 After drying, the final coat shall be lightly sanded (See
Section 19.1.1.1) with 120 grit or finer sandpaper or wiped
with a damp sponge to leave a smooth even surface covering
the joint
From: http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/GA-216-07 English.pdf

Princelake, you may want to read that chapter 19, I pulled from....or this:http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/GA-214-07 English.pdf

Gary


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i read the whole thing and??


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## Evstarr (Nov 15, 2011)

I hope the OP made popcorn for the show. It'll be a while before someone remembers him.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I thought that was answered already....... 

Princelake, my apologies, I was half asleep. Here is the correct link: http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/GA-214-07 English.pdf

Gary


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