# Quartz countertop - Cracked, not one but twice!



## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

Oh boy how do I love forums!. First timer here and in need of some guidance. I had my whole house remodeled back when we bought it in August 2010. One of the project was the whole kitchen, one of the main project was the countertop. Granite vs quartz, we ended up going with Quartz (COMPAQ) mainly because of its strength according to online comments, and hearing it from other people. The countertop in the last 9 years has gotten two cracks in two different inside corner. The installer stated that the countertop was "abused" therefore im out of gas. Manufacturer blamed it on the installer by not making the cuts according to specs (by looking at the photos) and Im stuck with a cracked countertop. What do you guys think?

Manufacturer response:
Good Morning,

As I see from the picture, the reason of this crack seems to be caused due to a non-proper fabrication of the countertop. The corners have a right angle. The corners must be rounded (0.75 cm radius) and not at right angles

Installer response after receiving manufacturer reply:
The person who sent you this information is not a fabricator and her job at Compac Quartz is not in the claims department. Furthermore she does not have any fabrication knowledge to be able to determine whether there is a corner radius or not present. Last this is not the way a claim is typically handle and a radius in not calculate by looking at a picture.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

It is true that an inside corner is the weakest area in anything and a radius is how that is combated.
My first thought was the floor, if there is any up and down movement in the floor, you might find the counter would find the weakest spot to crack.
The cupboard screwed to the wall tight and the peninsula screwed to the floor. 

So then I would ask what the floor joists are and what span do they have.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

If I did my math right the "curve" in the corner should be roughly 1/2" across - it looks a little small to me in the picture too.

I think your installer might be saying "I'm not doing jack until you prove I did it wrong" - kinda sounds like you need to talk to the claims department and prove they messed up to get them to do anything about it.

Down side is that they might just say they only warranty their work for x years and do nothing for you even if it was their fault :/ Maybe someone can come in and repair the crack somehow (a matched filling, pulling it back together with glue/adhesive, or something similar)


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## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

Nealtw said:


> It is true that an inside corner is the weakest area in anything and a radius is how that is combated.
> My first thought was the floor, if there is any up and down movement in the floor, you might find the counter would find the weakest spot to crack.
> The cupboard screwed to the wall tight and the peninsula screwed to the floor.
> 
> So then I would ask what the floor joists are and what span do they have.


Thanks for quick feedback, that was my first thought on the first crack due to how big was that piece. But the second crack came of a much smaller piece that is mounted on top of an one piece floor cabinet and it doesn't relay on another cabinet being straight. The countertop has three inside corner the only one that has survived so far is the one that has about 150 degree angle, both with 90 degree are cracked.


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## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

Mystriss said:


> If I did my math right the "curve" in the corner should be roughly 1/2" across - it looks a little small to me in the picture too.
> 
> I think your installer might be saying "I'm not doing jack until you prove I did it wrong" - kinda sounds like you need to talk to the claims department and prove they messed up to get them to do anything about it.
> 
> Down side is that they might just say they only warranty their work for x years and do nothing for you even if it was their fault 😕 Maybe someone can come in and repair the crack somehow (a matched filling, pulling it back together with glue/adhesive, or something similar)


Thanks for the quick response, 1/2 should be on the safe side. According to the associate from COMPAQ the radius has to be .75cm which is .295 in. Kind of tight for me as well after seeing this issues on my countertop. Oh yeah the installer right away directed me the "disclaimer" on the invoice - "On regards to your statement about our company. As per our invoice which you signed and agreed we do not offer any warranty and your crack occurred no upon installation but years after. Here is our disclaimer as per our invoice “Buyer has read and agrees to all policies, disclaimers printed on this document and acknowledges their full effect. All Sales are Final and non-refundable, no claims will be allowed once the material is purchased, cut, and or installed.” If Jack ever existed here, she finally put the last nail in his coffin. To be honest, I'm not expecting them to change my countertop, but guide me on how can I fix it. True customer service is not when everything is beautiful and nice, but when issues arise and assistance need to be given. Main reason why Im a DIY type of guy, hate paying someone to do a job for you and beside paying them, they do the job wrong. I rather gain the experience myself, and if it comes out wrong at least I did it.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I have limited experience installing and joining solid surface, so here goes. In the bottom picture.....what is that? Is it pieced together for some reason? Looks as if it is a weak spot waiting to break.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Are you certain your cabinets are perfectly...not level necessarily, but square with each other on top?


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I don't know too much about fabricating quartz countertops, but a couple of things.
First, not following the manufacture's instructions is a sure way to screw things up. 
Second, it sure looks a lot different than my quartz countertop. The inside radius's on mine are about 2-1/4" (maybe 60mm). Clearly, my countertops were CNC cut. That small radius on your inside makes me wonder if the guy drilled a hole and then used some kind of saw. 
Third, looking at the photo from the bottom, it rather looks like the countertop is supported by a glob of caulk perhaps every 12". I would have thought support should be continuous.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

Have you tried calling any of the smaller local shops to see if they might give you pointers on fixing it yourself? I'm almost positive the family outfit that did our zodiaq would help folks out like that.


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## RRH (Nov 24, 2016)

You would not be asking about the warranty. 
But you could try a claim negligence if it was not installed according to accepted practices or manuf, instructions.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I agree RRH, though I'd suspect that the legal costs would end up far more than the cost of a new counter heh


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Chinonegro said:


> The corners have a right angle. The corners must be rounded (0.75 cm radius) and not at right angles



Can somebody explain what he is saying? Of course corners are at right angle -- that's the definition of a corner.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

SPS-1 said:


> Can somebody explain what he is saying? Of course corners are at right angle -- that's the definition of a corner.


The corners is cut with a radius so the actual corner is rounded instead of meeting with straight line.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

SPS-1 said:


> Can somebody explain what he is saying? Of course corners are at right angle -- that's the definition of a corner.


They can't be a sharp 90* corner [*unless at a seam] because nature doesn't like right angles - it has to be rounded off/softened so it doesn't crack there. Too much stress from small up/down side/side movement in a "brittle" weak spot.

Example:

A seamed 90* (or squared off) inside corner in my quartz: 









vs an inside corner that had to be radius because no seam to dissipate the stresses:


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## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> I have limited experience installing and joining solid surface, so here goes. In the bottom picture.....what is that? Is it pieced together for some reason? Looks as if it is a weak spot waiting to break.


That's a 1" thick lip edge.


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## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

huesmann said:


> Are you certain your cabinets are perfectly...not level necessarily, but square with each other on top?


Im sure it has a good support all around.


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## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

SPS-1 said:


> I don't know too much about fabricating quartz countertops, but a couple of things.
> First, not following the manufacture's instructions is a sure way to screw things up.
> Second, it sure looks a lot different than my quartz countertop. The inside radius's on mine are about 2-1/4" (maybe 60mm). Clearly, my countertops were CNC cut. That small radius on your inside makes me wonder if the guy drilled a hole and then used some kind of saw.
> Third, looking at the photo from the bottom, it rather looks like the countertop is supported by a glob of caulk perhaps every 12". I would have thought support should be continuous.


2-1/4 radius is great less stress on the corner. The caulk I believe it is just to keep it in place. I just bought a radius gauge, should be coming on Thursday.


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## Chinonegro (Jun 18, 2019)

RRH said:


> You would not be asking about the warranty.
> But you could try a claim negligence if it was not installed according to accepted practices or manuf, instructions.





Mystriss said:


> I agree RRH, though I'd suspect that the legal costs would end up far more than the cost of a new counter heh


 These people know all the tricks. On their final invoice that you sign they have a disclaimer that says that after installing the top they are not liable for anything, basically not warranty at all. Yep... scammer.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I've been watching quartz repair videos since you posted this as I have a tiny little chip where I dropped one of my heavy pans. Most common method uses super glue and baking soda (as a drying agent) with a straight razor blade, (for your white you might need silica sand too.) 

I think I'm going to give it a try. Maybe tomorrow after I finish lasagna. I'll post my results


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

Chinonegro said:


> These people know all the tricks. On their final invoice that you sign they have a disclaimer that says that after installing the top they are not liable for anything, basically not warranty at all. Yep... scammer.


Quite possible. They might know it'd not be worth the court costs, or even that a judge could easily be convinced it was a natural stone crack rather than an installer crack. I could probably easily talk someone into the idea that it didn't happen for many years so it's "obviously" the house settling, if it'd been a cutting error it'd have cracked soon after install, not years down the line. Maybe someone in your house dropped something on it and brought out a natural fissure or something...

Yeah, I think you're gonna get stuck with the bill either way you go :/


Though, I'll tell ya, my countertop has a lifetime warranty on it; cutting and install... I've no doubt I could call them up to fix my little chip and they'd be happy to do it, but it's my fault so I'll try to fix heh


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Chinonegro said:


> Im sure it has a good support all around.


I didn't ask if you had good support; I asked if the cabinets were all square, and not like this:

_______-----------------____________---------------



Chinonegro said:


> I just bought a radius gauge, should be coming on Thursday.


Can't you just measure the offset from the straight part to the other straight part?


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

To me it look like inadequate support for the countertop and I would blame the installer who should know what is required. I would take the installer to small claims court and include the cost to replace the countertop and to have the work done by a competent contractor.
That said, I have never known of anyone having a similar problem with a granite countertop and granite is used nearly 100% of the time where I live.


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## Domo (Nov 9, 2018)

The countertop was either built correctly, or not.

The fabricator that did the final installation has the responsibility to verify that the cabinetry was stable and suitable for installation BEFORE he started the installation.

If the product was fabricated INCORRECTLY (too small a radius) and the manufacturer will corroborate this fact, then any shift in cabinet/floor/etc. is inconsequential since the product was given to you with an obvious fabrication flaw, therefore and future "abuse" merely exacerbated the fabrication error resulting in the cracks.

If the fabricator is licensed and insured, and if you can get a clear statement from the engineers at the quartz manufacturers regarding REQUIRED fabrication guidelines for proper installation/warranty.

Then, it's time for to notify the contractor as well as the licensing board, by registered mail, regarding the work that was not completed in a manner required by the product manufacturer. In the letter, as for redress and repair and state that "time is of the essence" to have this repaired or replaced.

Most licensing agencies have a specific fund set up to make customers "whole" when they have been damaged by a licensee.

You could also consult (first hour free) with a lawyer - AFTER you have a firm definitive letter in your hand including supporting pictures/diagrams from the manufacturer. Have the proof it was done wrong before you go to the lawyer. And, of course, once you talk to the lawyer, make sure you copy him on the registered letter you send to the contractor and the licensing board.

When I was working, I'd have pulled the countertop and replaced it correctly as soon as it cracked. (Happened to two in a six-plex I remodeled - in truth my fabricator cut them too narrow at the front of the sink cutout and the plumber hoisted himself out from under the kitchen sink using the countertop to lift himself up - snapped two of the granite counters in two of the apartments - I pulled the counters and had them replaced with no hesitation - and no, I didn't abuse the plumber or my fabricator, but did get a break on the replacements. Most importantly, the customer was made whole.)


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

The countertop is 9 years old. And the OP signed off on statement saying "no warranty". Op isn't getting anything from the installer.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

As a note, my test of chip repair will have to wait until the weekend, somehow we don't have /any/ super glue LOL


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Question for the OP , did you ask the manufacturer about acceptable repair methods ? In my opinion you will get no where with the installer too much time has passed . If it were me I would find two pieces of similar material maybe 4 - 5 inches wide and whatever length to cover the length of the cracks and beyond . I would cut/shape/fit the pieces so they fit UNDER the counter . Then use whatever epoxy or adhesive the manufacturer recommends and glue it under the counter bridging both sides of the cracks . Stabilizing the crack areas is vital in my opinion to getting a decent top side repair . Maybe the manufacturer can provide names of " certified " installers that can repair the top side . Maybe call one of them and discuss any repairs before you do anything . My suggestion may be the right thing to do or could be 100 % wrong . I really think asking and listening to the manufacturer is your best course for repair .


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

I realized I hadn't updated on my superglue fix when I was getting pics off my phone tonight.

I had accidentally bought gel super glue (dratted tiny print) but I gave it a shot anyway and it sorta worked. Like it feels really smooth, but it seems like the glue picked up the wrong color. I do think regular super glue would work better because the liquid would settle out flat and give a better gloss.

Anyway, first here's my chip:









The first time I didn't use any baking soda and I let it sit for 30 minutes to dry before I scraped over it with a fresh razor blade. It wasn't completely dry so it kind of smeared a little around the edges. The parts that had dried were promising though:









So I cleaned it all out and started over, this time I used baking soda and let it sit for 2 hours:









Then I scraped it off and this is what I ended up with:















Looking at it from the top, it's like the glue is reflecting the background color of the quartz - rather than the brighter green section that chipped:









It's hard to see the chip at most angles now. It was hard to see even before this little hack, but this /is/ a bit better. I'm debating if I want to get a liquid super glue and try again. 

I also filled a couple other really tiny chips I'd found, they were about the diameter of a toothpick, but I didn't mark them and they turned out so well that I can't even find them again to take after pictures.

Bottom line is that it does seem to work, but the variation of color(s) on your quartz might greatly effect the outcome.


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