# Best Tools for Drywall Removal?



## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Two hands are your best removal tools after punching a few strategically located holes.

A crow bar will remove the screws easily.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Don't forget there's insulation above.
If you are going to go into the attic to do something with this anyway, I would kick the drywall down from up above, if this can be done safely.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

If you use a bar and rip the screws out, they'll tear up the truss chords as they come out. Personally, I'd rip the drywall down, then unscrew. If they're plugged with mud, use some small vice-grips to remove them.

DM


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

DangerMouse said:


> If you use a bar and rip the screws out, they'll tear up the truss chords as they come out. Personally, I'd rip the drywall down, then unscrew. If they're plugged with mud, use some small vice-grips to remove them.
> 
> DM


What about smacking them back and forth with a hammer until they break?


Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

That'd work too, but if it were me, I'd unscrew and clean them up and recycle them! (I'm cheap! :laughing: ) I'd also be concerned about not having a smooth, flat surface to reattach to. 

DM


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## neo95gt (Dec 21, 2011)

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured as much, looks like I should get a heavy duty crowbar and some gloves and have at it!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Ceiling drywall screws are required to be longer than the ones used on walls. If you crowbar them out, you'll almost certainly tear up the wood, making it weaker and less likely to have a good surface to re-screw to when you replace the required 5/8" drywall. If you do not want to reuse them, then I'd be inclined to go with titanoman's suggestion and break them off. 

DM


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A simple flat bar is plenty---be sure to knife the corners --so you don't damage the walls as the drywall is removed.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> If you crowbar them out, you'll almost certainly tear up the wood, making it weaker and less likely to have a good surface to re-screw to when you replace the required 5/8" drywall.


*Phooey !!!*
There will be plenty of meat remaining for the new screws. Drywall screws are never that healthy to begin with. Scrape the splinters and go for it.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Ceilings Mike....

DM


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Okay, whatever you guys say. But of course, you know I'm right...... :laughing:

DM


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## neo95gt (Dec 21, 2011)

DangerMouse said:


> Ceiling drywall screws are required to be longer than the ones used on walls. If you crowbar them out, you'll almost certainly tear up the wood, making it weaker and less likely to have a good surface to re-screw to when you replace the required 5/8" drywall. If you do not want to reuse them, then I'd be inclined to go with titanoman's suggestion and break them off.
> 
> DM


Good point. Now that I think of it, I will be hanging my new ceiling using clips and a hat channel (this is a sound barrier project). So I probably can just leave the screws in there since there will be a 1.5" gap between the bottom of the joists and the ceiling.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> since there will be a 1.5" gap between the bottom of the joists and the ceiling.


3/4"..............


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

DangerMouse said:


> the required 5/8" drywall.


Why is 5/8" required?


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Drywall of 5/8" thickness is a typical "code minimum" for ceilings most everywhere I know of. Has to do with fire protection.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Jay 78 said:


> Why is 5/8" required?


It's possibly not required for him, but 5/8" Fire-X WAS required for my home as I built it. I believe it's code everywhere though. 

DM


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Jay 78 said:


> Why is 5/8" required?


You always put 5/8" on the lid


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

oh'mike and I were just talking on the phone (he was on his way to breakfast with a friend/client) and he suggested throwing down some visqueen plastic before you start! I have to agree! Then when you're done, just roll it up and dispose..... 
This WILL be a messy project, guaranteed!! 

DM


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I should have also added that 5/8" won't sag (between the rafters) as quickly as 1/2" will.


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## neo95gt (Dec 21, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> 3/4"..............


It's actually 1 5/8". Clips + channel.


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## neo95gt (Dec 21, 2011)

And yes, 5/8th is code for me. I'll be actually adding 2 layers of 5/8th.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> I'll be actually adding 2 layers of 5/8th.


Okay...but why?


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## neo95gt (Dec 21, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> Okay...but why?


Sound proofing reasons.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Got it!


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Are you going to use Green Glue between the drywall boards?

It's good to be learning all of this. I'm going to be tearing drywall out of 2 rooms in my basement soon. 

Instead of taking the drywall screws out of the studs, would it be alright to use a multi-tool or a Sawzall to cut them off? 

Also, would it be alright to use a circular saw to cut a line in the drywall from one end to the other between the studs? Of course, with the blade set slightly deeper than the thickness of the drywall to avoid hitting electric wires. I'm sure there's a reason why that won't work, but thought I'd ask.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

gma2rjc said:


> Are you going to use Green Glue between the drywall boards?
> 
> It's good to be learning all of this. I'm going to be tearing drywall out of 2 rooms in my basement soon.
> 
> ...


Why wouldn't you be able to cut the screws?
Using a saw...if you want dust everywhere.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Instead of taking the drywall screws out of the studs, would it be alright to use a multi-tool or a Sawzall to cut them off?


Those screws are super-hard. Not sure with the cost of blades for Sawzalls and Multi-tools it would be worth it.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

titanoman said:


> .if you want dust everywhere.


CLOUDS of dust! OODLES and BOODLES of dust! :laughing:
I'd NEVER try to use power tools to cut drywall..... whatta mess!

DM


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I hadn't thought about the dust. Hmmm. I don't know if I have the strength in my hands to pull down drywall. I guess I'll find out . 

The Sawzall blades would probably be the cheaper of the two. Multi-tool blades are fairly 'spensive.


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## neo95gt (Dec 21, 2011)

gma2rjc said:


> Are you going to use Green Glue between the drywall boards?
> 
> It's good to be learning all of this. I'm going to be tearing drywall out of 2 rooms in my basement soon.
> 
> ...


Funny you ask. I will be using green glue. Sawing off the screws sounds like a good idea if you have the tool. Sawing off the old drywall probably would be more trouble than what it's worth. Sounds risky and messy, but it could make things fast and easy I suppose.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

gma2rjc said:


> I hadn't thought about the dust. Hmmm. I don't know if I have the strength in my hands to pull down drywall. I guess I'll find out .
> 
> The Sawzall blades would probably be the cheaper of the two. Multi-tool blades are fairly 'spensive.


If you have the strength to hold up a saw, you can rip drywall out.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

A claw hammer will make short work of drywall removal too.

DM


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I like using a good garden hoe to pull it down. Doesn't pull through the board as quickly, so you get bigger chunks torn off.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Good idea!

DM


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

There is also always a neighborhood teenager.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Or two young men who would be more than happy no:... :laughing to help their mother-in-law for a day or two. 

I'm anxious to see what's on the other side of the drywall. Those two rooms stay right around 54º in the winter - with the heat vent open. 

I like the idea of the garden hoe too.


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## BigGuy01 (Jul 11, 2011)

neo95gt said:


> So I'm starting a new project where I will be replacing the ceiling in a few rooms. Removal of the drywall ceiling seems simple enough, as is most demo.....But does anyone have any pointers/link to the best tool for the job? I have a drywall saw and dremel. I don't have a sledge, but for the ceiling I dunno if that would be the best tool for the job anyway. Is there any sort of must have drywall removal tool?
> 
> Also, for all the screws that will remain stuck in the joists....what is the easiest way to remove them? Simply unscrew them out if the screws aren't too mudded up, or is their a good tool I can use to just rip them out (if possible without causing too much damage).
> 
> Thanks for any tips.


Going through this thread for the past half hour, no one has mentioned it.

Get safety glasses, and get dust makes. The dust from drywall can damage your lungs. And the dust can injure/damage your eyes. When you break the layer of drywall, you will have insulation. Majority of homes use fiberglass insulation, which, can cut the crap out of your hands, and/or completely rip your lungs into shreaded beef. Wear a dust mask, wear safety glasses, and get mechanic gloves from an auto-parts store. I use Mechanix Nitrile gloves, they are thick and don't tear easily, and save my hands on almost everything I dow ith them. They are also resistant to oil, and other liquids and lubricants, and can be washed. 

Taking apart a cieling, WILL drop this crap on your face and lungs. use PPE. $20 at a hardware store will save you $1,000 for an ambulance ride, (in know, I've had to ride in an ambulance before) and another $1,000-50,000 for medical bills to treat injuries. You only have one pair of lungs, one pair of eyes, and two hands. When they are ruined/destroyed, you will never get new ones. 

Wear Personal Protective Equipment when doing this ^^^^^^^^^^^

Also, regarding tools, I prefer an Electricians Hammer, or a large Framing Hammer to punch in, make hand sized holes, and then use my hands to pull out what I can, and then once everything is out, I come back with my hammer, and pull out any nails or screws. What works best to remove screws, is going to be a cordless drill with a number 2 philips head. (Most drywall screws I've come across are philips heads). 

But you need to wear PPE. Gravity comes downward, meaning in your face. wear PPE.

Drywall dust is toxic. So is the dust from jointing compound. It has a crystaline substance in it that sticks to your lungs and damages them. Less exposure you have, the better. Wear a dust mask.

If it's an older home, be aware of asbestos. If you come across anything "chaulky" or resemble anything like a cement like substance, or like a ceramic or porcelain substance that is relatively light, STOP WORK IMMEDIATLEY!!!!!!! Call the health department or a building inspector to take a look, and STOP DOING EVERYTHING IMMEDIATELY until told otherwise. 

If the asbestos is Fryable. I.e. it is in powder form, i.e. anything is flying around dust wise, GO out of that room!! with your clothes on, jump in the shower. soak yourself. and whoever was with you. Close your eyes, soak your entire body. take off clothes, put into clothes bin, and immediately place in washer machine, if not throw them away. Holding your breath as long as you can until you and your partner is soaked is best. 

If you think I'm kidding, I'm not. 

If it's non fryable, then in it's natural state, it is not harmful. As long as you are not cutting into it, breaking it, using power tools on it, etc. you should be relatively fine. However, if discovered, stop work immediately. Do the same as you would above for fryable asbestos. Shut the room off from the rest of the house, get air flowing, air rate your house, and throw away any open food containers. Including food in dog bowls, and wash dog water and dog food bowls if out. If back of dog food is open, throw it away. Same with any human food items if they are anywhere near the room asbestos was located. If you're in a NEWER house, than you shouldn't have to worry about it. If you're in an OLDER house, you do need to be aware of this.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Forget the idea of using a saw, it's just going to make more dust, your left with the drywall still stuck to the studs, the dust will get in the bearings in the saw. There is no blade made that I've seen for an ossilating saw to cut nails. Far better to just use a drywall gun, impact screw driver or last a cordless drill and remove them.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

joecaption said:


> There is no blade made that I've seen for an ossilating saw to cut nails.


???? really???? ANY bi-metal or metal cutting blade will cut nails....
"oscillating" is correct spelling, btw.

DM


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## dberladyn (Apr 24, 2011)

DangerMouse said:


> If you use a bar and rip the screws out, they'll tear up the truss chords as they come out. Personally, I'd rip the drywall down, then unscrew. If they're plugged with mud, use some small vice-grips to remove them.
> 
> DM



I agree. Unscrew them!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Try it and see how many screws or nail you can cut before distroying a $15.00 blade, not many. I own 3, of those saws and there great for most jobs but cutting nails is not one of them.
A sawsall would be a far better choise when it comes to nail cutting.


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## BigGuy01 (Jul 11, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Try it and see how many screws or nail you can cut before distroying a $15.00 blade, not many. I own 3, of those saws and there great for most jobs but cutting nails is not one of them.
> A sawsall would be a far better choise when it comes to nail cutting.


I do agree, he's better of using a screw gun, so he can unscrew4 or 5 screws before he cuts one screw. 

But that said, the proper blade with proper speed setting, shouldn't have any problems cutting screws/nails. As long as the blade is rated to cut that specific type of metal, and as long as the operator cuts at a medium-slow speed, the operator could measure, cut, and place entire ducting systems with a sawzall and metal blade. To include cutting any metal plates or screws in the way of the ducting. 

A man I've done work for, has had the same blade on his sawzall for almost a year now. And he uses it to cut iron pipe. As long as you use slower speeds to drill/cut into hard surfaces with the appropirate blade for the material, there shouldn't be any problem at all.

What dulls your metal cutting blade, is using it to cut wood or drywall. Softer materials dull blades more than harder materials. It's why taking a skillsaw through dirt will dull the wood blade out in a few minutes, while the wood blade could operate for hours cutting wood. 

If the material was too hard for the blade, the blade would simply chip/break rather than dull and/or cut. 

They make blades for specific materials for a reason. It's why you don't use copper blade on a pipe cutter to cut PVC, it'll dull it. while a PVC Blade to cut copper will break the PVC blade. You use the appropriate blade for the appropriate material, at the appropriate speeds as specified by the manufacturer, and that's the end of it.

The only reason your metal cutting blade would dull out, is if you were using it to cut wood and drywall. If it was breaking, than you are using your blade at either too high of an RPM, or you're cutting into material that is too hard for the blade to cut through. (such as using an blade rated to cut aluminum and copper, to cut steel when it's not rated to cut steel)

That said, the OP really should just use a drill, for the sake of speed and efficiency.

That said, to cut into, and shape drywall for installation purposes, I've found a drummel to be very, very effective. you can make clean cuts for outlets, switches, pipes, etc. without any issues. Sawzalls work grate for that as well, but they simply aren't as nimble. However, you cannot use a drummel to cut metal or anything, unless you put on the metal cutting attachment.

EDIT

Either case, if you're using powertools at all, wear safety glasses. If you're cutting into, or coming into contact with insulation, drywall, treated wood, etc. Wear a dust mask. And gloves.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If the floor is covered, just hit the screw with your hammer, swing away from your face, work alone. Swing and break with 1 hit, with the joist, not perpendicular or it will splinter. Use a grub-hoe with a 3' handle. you just pry off the joist to pull down in 1/3 sheets. Score them with knife (on one side only) in two inch wider rips (start at 6" wide) to fold-up on themselves like a carpet. 3-4 in a plastic trash bag. Unless you like to hear your drill noise......

Gary


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

Is it too late to entertain more ideas on how to deal with the screws?

What if there are nails up there? Discuss amongst yourselves.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

just pull the screws with a hammer or flat bar.. much faster than using a cordless drill or impact.. and using a recip or oscillating tool is just a waste of time..
if you get any screws that the head snaps off hit the screw shank with your hammer or use pliers to pull it

for the drywall itself, i just make a few large holes with my hammer to start out with from there i just pull down the drywall with my hands. and keep my hammer on my belt to start new holes if the sheets break on a stud which doesnt allow me to grab an edge..

this is easy peasy demolition.. this sorta thing i usually hire a demolition crew to handle. from there myself and the rest of the crew take over from there to handle any structural issues that need tending to which the demolition labors arent allowed to touch


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

I've just been through the same rodeo. A cordless impact driver will get those screws out faster than anything. The mud is not that hard...just jam the bit in and hit the trigger. They will come right out. Faster than breaking or sawing them and does not leave your joists full of metal that will get in the way down the road.

And I second the cautioning regarding dust. A good respirator is even better if you have it and some goggles.

Funny aside story: Years ago I got something in my eye and went to my doctor's office because it would not come out. The resident spent like 10 minutes fumbling to put dye in my eye and then look for the offending particle. I ended up having to go back a week later for a similar thing and the head doctor performed the same operation in less than 30 seconds. I asked him how he got so good at it. He smiled and said "My first office was across the street from a muffler repair shop." Took me a moment or two to figure out why that was relevant.


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## BigGuy01 (Jul 11, 2011)

Ironlight said:


> I've just been through the same rodeo. A cordless impact driver will get those screws out faster than anything. The mud is not that hard...just jam the bit in and hit the trigger. They will come right out. Faster than breaking or sawing them and does not leave your joists full of metal that will get in the way down the road.
> 
> And I second the cautioning regarding dust. A good respirator is even better if you have it and some goggles.
> 
> Funny aside story: Years ago I got something in my eye and went to my doctor's office because it would not come out. The resident spent like 10 minutes fumbling to put dye in my eye and then look for the offending particle. I ended up having to go back a week later for a similar thing and the head doctor performed the same operation in less than 30 seconds. I asked him how he got so good at it. He smiled and said "My first office was across the street from a muffler repair shop." Took me a moment or two to figure out why that was relevant.


Respirators would be good, but that can be costly depending on the type. Anyways, that's funny as heck lol


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## rjordan393 (Sep 15, 2010)

Firefighters use a tool called a ceiling hook. they are long enough so that you can work off the floor instead of a ladder. The tool has a spear like point and below that is the hook. By punching some holes with the spear and then using the hook, you can pull down large pieces of drywall.
This would be faster then using a hammer or other tool that requires a ladder. Try doing a search for firefighter hand tools or firefighter ceiling hook. See if the distributor will sell you one.
Another idea is to contact your local fire department and ask how you can aquire one.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Firefighters use a tool called a ceiling hook.


"Fireman's Hook"...only $325.00 each at your local fireman's supply.


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## rjordan393 (Sep 15, 2010)

Bud,
Are you jesting? I already priced one out on the net at $90.00 for a 6 foot ceiling hook. Even that price is a bit high but it will save the poster from getting a sore back from working off a ladder. He has a couple of rooms to do.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Probably another Internet rip-off site. I didn't pay any attention to the website, guess I should have.

I just figured since it was a tool being sold to a government agency (a Fire Department) it was just another seller ripping off the government. Sorta like the $200 hammers and the $600 toilet seats.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

51 one replys for a job that could have been done in a few hours, with a few simple tools, gees.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

joecaption said:


> 51 one replys for a job that could have been done in a few hours, with a few simple tools, gees.


We ARE an EFFICIENT bunch, ain't we? :laughing:

DM


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Question was asked in the first Post.
Question was answered in the second Post.
And yet...............................................?


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## dberladyn (Apr 24, 2011)

I just gutted a room today. A claw hammer and a small prybar were all I needed to remove the old drywall. As for the screws, a screwgun running in reverse was fast, simple and it didn't damage the wood.

I know everyone feels proud about what they know, but screws used in the ceilings are the same screws used in the walls. 1.25" for .5" drywall. 5/8" is not something that is typically used in a home unless it was a custom build or perhaps if it was a newer house subject to newer building codes.


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## BigGuy01 (Jul 11, 2011)

rjordan393 said:


> Firefighters use a tool called a ceiling hook. they are long enough so that you can work off the floor instead of a ladder. The tool has a spear like point and below that is the hook. By punching some holes with the spear and then using the hook, you can pull down large pieces of drywall.
> This would be faster then using a hammer or other tool that requires a ladder. Try doing a search for firefighter hand tools or firefighter ceiling hook. See if the distributor will sell you one.
> Another idea is to contact your local fire department and ask how you can aquire one.


Do you understand those are ment for high temperature situations? Those are 200+ bucks a piece, because they are ment for a fireman to be able to pull off the drywall panel to locate a fire burning inside the cieling. Not to mention there are so many different varients to them. 

Completely impractical for a regular tradesmen, let alone for a home owner, especially considering the cost, and the fact it's a tool you'll probably only use once or twice in a lifetime depending on your work/trade/home life style. That's a big price tag for such a limited use item. 

If you were making a living off it, sure, absolutely. But if you're not, I can't see that expense to be worth it.


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

No need for fancy hooks to destroy your ceiling with

Just use a hammer, put a few holes in it, you will see how easily the sheets will come down (hopefully they aren't glued, although i've never run into that) A screwdriver will work fine to remove the screws, a small tap with a hammer will also break the screw off quite easily, don't waste your time trying to cut it with a tool.

I second the advice for respiratory and eye protection, sometimes there is some pretty nasty stuff from mice and whatnot in the insulation that will come down. Also good to protect your floors. You may want to throw up some poly across doorways too, if the house is finished and occupied in other places.


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## rjordan393 (Sep 15, 2010)

BigGuy01,
Like I mentioned, a ceiling hook can be purchased for $90.00.
As for the cost, the poster has to weigh in the total job, the difficulty and time to tear down a few ceilings. A ceiling hook is much lighter then a full size crowbar. If one uses a crowbar, then its most likely he would have to stand almost under it and the ceiling would come down on him or almost on him. I would not want to stand on a ladder to use a crowbar either. Ladders are not meant to allow you to shift your weight.
A ceiling hook allows you to stand away from falling debris and most of the dust. 
It all comes down to each individual and the job, on what he thinks the tool is worth.
If the original poster has a volunteer fire company, then he can donate the tool and deduct it from his income tax.
He might even get luckey and borrow one from them for a small donation.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

BigGuy01 said:


> Do you understand those are ment for high temperature situations? Those are 200+ bucks a piece, because they are ment for a fireman to be able to pull off the drywall panel to locate a fire burning inside the cieling. Not to mention there are so many different varients to them.
> 
> Completely impractical for a regular tradesmen, let alone for a home owner, especially considering the cost, and the fact it's a tool you'll probably only use once or twice in a lifetime depending on your work/trade/home life style. That's a big price tag for such a limited use item.
> 
> If you were making a living off it, sure, absolutely. But if you're not, I can't see that expense to be worth it.


Can you show everyone the C.F.R. that specifically states that, along with local and state regulations, that says that particalur tool can not be sold to DIYers in hardware stores?


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