# which stain for deck



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

I like Sherwin williams deckscapes,in a solid for older decks .it kind of gets down in all the cracks and kind of binds all the old wood fiber together ,not slippery .s/w recommends 2 coats for good protection ,but I have done 1 on my own deck and it looks great. as for fence s/w makes a good stain also


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

Thinking of using the same on the fence.. its just a decorative wood fence around the patio. Nothing like a privacy fence or a border between properties


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

sh40674 said:


> Anyone recommend a good stain for decking and a wood fence? Not sure if I want a semi transparent or solid color yet.. will be going on treated wood. Biggest thing is I don't want it slippery as heck like Thompsons when its wet.. also, how will each cover consider some of the wood is darker, some is lighter (different shades) thanks guys and gals in advance!


 Its usually advised to stay away from solid stains on deck floors unless its necessary because of extreme weathering, and/or failed old coatings. At least on the floor. Fencing and other horizontal surfaces aren't at risk as of peeling as much. 
Either way, there are very few long term deck coatings/sealers. The advantage to using a semi-trans or a toner on the floor is that when its time to maintain it, the prep work is generally not as involved. When a solid deck starts peeling, its labor intensive to fix. 
Semi-trans stain won't do as much as far as evening out different boards though. They do help with uniformity by giving all the boards the same tint. Part of the point of semi-trans is to let the wood show through to an extent. 
If the treated wood is new, it will need to weather some before staining of any kind. Different brands are different, but its generally accepted to wait at least several months before applying any stain. There are products out there to apply to new wood that will keep it from graying during the waiting period, and still allow it to cure. Although treated wood doesn't tend to gray very fast anyway in most climates. Washing/cleaning new wood prior to staining is also a very good idea. 

Toners are my favorite for deck floors. They penetrate completely, don't get slippery when wet (most semi-trans doesn't), and generally last about 3 years.

This is Olympic cedar toner or a 14 month old (covered) deck floor that was washed prior to application.











I've done several decks where the horizontals (pickets, post, fencing) were done in a solid, and the floor done in a semi trans to match. (The darker redish pics) 

The last pic is Cabbot semi -trans after 3 years on a exposed floor. Time to do it again.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I agree that solid stains are not a great idea for walked on horizontal deck surfaces. 

I would look at Sherwin Williams waterbased Woodscapes solid stain for the fence and vertical members and railings if a solid color look with some wood texture showing is what you want. You can tint it any color. 

Then pick something else for the deck itself---Deckscapes is a a possibility (I think Deckscapes comes in only a semi-transparent and semi-solid product by the way). Sikkens products would be worth looking at. Olympic is not what it used to be and I am suspiscious whether box store Cabot is the same as paint store Cabot also. If there is a huge price spread, probably not. 

I am not sure I have a strong argument anymore but I guess I am a purist and grew up applying penetrating solvent based deck stains so never switched to waterbased for that part of things. 

Definitely search other threads on this topic as it comes up often and I cannot remember all the product recommendations. 

You mentioned you were staining treated lumber. Make sure you can stain it right away if it is new. With much of it you have to let it sit for 6-12 months before finishing it.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Some good points made above; IMO, Cabot, Sikkens, Sherwin Williams, and even Benjamin Moore put out "passable" stains - which is good for a big box store quality - but nothing much to write home about. These stains in semi-transparent will give you protection for about three years, tops, the oil-based stains a bit more.

But don't forget there are companies out there that make stains - in fact that's all they do - so offer better quality per gallon. Look for them on-line. You may only get 3+ years of protection but the look will be a lot nicer.

Where are you and what type of wood? Full sun or shade?


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

I don't mind re staining every couple years.. in Iowa and full sun


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Where does the 'Thompson's' come into all this? are you just thinking about it or have you already applied it?


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

No I have not just the only crap I've used is Thompsons


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

I'm more worried about something that is slippery.. or are they all?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

There is the newer finishes out there, that give a non-skid surface, and will last longer than stain. The off side is that it makes it look like Trex, but something to maybe look at.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

What type of wood and has it already gone grey?


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

Again... Treated lumber AMD planning for the future.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Re-read your post. Avoid Thompson's.

As for color on differing age boards? As you move up the scale from clear (or nearly clear) sealers to semi-transparent stains, and then transcend into semi-solids and finally solid stains, you add pigment. If you need to blend in varied shades or existing colors, you will probably need to step up to a product with more pigment. Or sometimes, you can accomplish blending with a darker color semi-transparent.

Best to try some small sections before buying 30 gallons of stain.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

OK; depends on how far you want to go to get a nice looking deck, IMO. But first, I'd plan out any further consideration of Thompson's Water Seal, because the basic product is just a solvent-based waterproofer that you'd need to re-apply every few months to get whatever advantage that 'waterproofing a deck' is to you. Doesn't protect against UV, freezing or mildew, three of the main enemies of decks.

The problem is you've already got it on there and any further stains will have a hard time absorbing uniformly. 

Either sand it off, and go the whole semi-transparent stain route - or stick with it.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> There is the newer finishes out there, that give a non-skid surface, and will last longer than stain. The off side is that it makes it look like Trex, but something to maybe look at.



http://www.superdeck.com/mobile/products/product?id=34

This stuff is cool. Supposed to last a very long time, and has an anti-skid additive that can be used to give the floor a texture.

There are box store versions as well. 

Here is a sample of the Rustolem version on new treated. It already has the texture in it.
Very thick, tough coating.


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

I do NOT have Thompson's on


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

"_No I have not just the only crap I've used is Thompsons" _
​Ah well OK then; you know, you'll keep us longer on board if you're clearer with what you mean. Many would interpret that as meaning you've used Thompson's on this deck.....if not, where else? Anyway, that is good news for the new deck.

Again, the answers depend on if the wood is new or not. So, is this an existing deck or one that exists in your mind?

Sorry for all the questions but the answers we give depend on knowing exactly what it is you plan on doing; there's no "best" stain for all decks, just like there is no one "best" car...the ideal? a composite deck, providing budget is no issue - which it probably isn't.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Amazing. From the original post, I thought you had a deck that had Thompson's on it too. Apparently you have been on some other deck that was wet, to which Thompson's had been previously applied.

You would be better off with: I intend to build a new deck of pressure treated southern yellow pine (List type of treatment). What is the best finish for this purpose?

Or: I have a (Years Old) deck that needs to be coated with something. See pictures. Based on these photos, what do you recommend? Condition means everything to someone recommending a finish.


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## KD PAINTING (Nov 8, 2012)

I recommend using Sherwin Williams Deckscapes as well, great product for decks.

Good Luck!


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

sdsester said:


> I am suspiscious whether box store Cabot is the same as paint store Cabot also. If there is a huge price spread, probably not.


I'm pretty sure the Cabot semi-transparent oil stain I'm buying at Home Depot is the same I'm buying at the Benjamin Moore store. Retail at BM is the same as the price at Home Depot.


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## sh40674 (Mar 14, 2013)

How many of you recommend semi transparent vs semi solid? And sorry, new wood deck and fence no previous finish


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

sh40674 said:


> How many of you recommend semi transparent vs semi solid? And sorry, new wood deck and fence no previous finish


 Semi-trans is easier it terms of long term maintenance. Semi-solid will basically turn into solid after a few maintenance coats over the years. Either will likely have to be stripped sometime during the lifetime of the deck to stay looking good, the semi-solid just builds up faster. 

On the other hand, semi-solid will give you slightly better initial protection and longevity. But not by much. Maybe one extra year on the initial coat if your lucky. 

My approach to floors has become ease of maintenance rather than try to squeeze an extra year out of a coat of stain. I've stripped enough failed coatings to realize the cost of doing that can equal the cost of 2-3 easy maintenance 
coats. That's why I like the toner even better that semi-trans. After 3-4 years the surface pigments in toner wear almost completely away, while the product still provides some UV protection and slows graying. Semi-trans can leave its pigments sitting on top as it wears, leading to more frequent stripping during the life of the deck. 

But yea, semi-trans rather than semi-solid is my vote. The less pigment the better ( as far as maintenance) IMO.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

I agree with the above since to me anyways, semi-solid is more like a paint and therefore needs stripping like a paint. I may be wrong in that, as I haven't used semi-solids much but that's my gut feeling. I don't like paints of any kind on decks, there you have it...

But for new wood, I'd like to see you read the label of the stain of your choice and follow their instructions as to how long to let new wood dry, and what prep may be needed for new, dried wood before you can stain it; for example, there may be a clause that says: "wait a month for new wood to dry then apply our brightener, then stain with our product"

The reason for that is simple: not every stain is compatible with someone else's brightener/conditioner - whatever they call it - so you're pretty much married to one brand down the road. Don't switch brands. 

So by all means, choose one brand and go with what they tell you, and hope that their products are still around in 4-5 years when you'll be back for more stain.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I have posted this before so hope people are not too tired of it.










The more pigment you add, obviously the more you fill in the grain and block the natural color of the wood to the point that a quality solid stain like SW Woodscapes is perhaps more like a paint than a stain. It does preserve the wood texture more than primer and paint would though. And, I mention again I think using solid stains on deck surfaces is not such a wise idea.

I think the more pigment you add to a stain the more the argument for using a solvent based product goes away. I would use waterbased Woodscapes before a comparable solvent product, for example. Acrylics will not yellow like oil-based products can. Somewhat irrelevant for semi-transparent stains I guess. 

I have also mentioned a fairly comprehensive forestry department study of exterior stain products. It found the average life of any such products is 3-5 years so that is the number you should have in mind for upkeep of your deck. Obviously if you prep and use superior products you may get more, if you use cheap, poor performing products, you will get less. 

Finally, as stated in other posts, you can greatly extend the life of a deck surface by putting something over it. Just like you would for interior finished wood floors, they now make some really nice outdoor rugs in just about any color, texture, shape and size you can imagine.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Just a quick comment on those deck resin restoration products. I have usually found Rustoleum does not make claims it cannot stand behind but the products are fairly new. 

One person on this site admitted to less than proper prep for the Rustoleum product and accepted his role in its failure. He said it was a real challenge to get what was sticking to the deck off though. Something to think about.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

http://www.deckstainhelp.com


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I did my girlfrinds deck 2 years ago with a semi-solid and it wore away just like it was supposed to. I did another coat a few weeks ago but it could have well went another year.


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