# About To Put Down A Rubbermaid Shed, Think I Should Check With You Fella'z 1st Tho..



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Really should have had them also grind the stump while they where there.
I would not put anything near where that tree had been.
Once the roots start rotting that areas going to sink and attract termites.
Some of the joys of a plastic or metal shed are trying to keep the walls and doors level.
Blowing apart in high winds.
They need to be installed at least 6" up off the ground and the floor needs to not extend out beyond the walls or waters going to get in under them.
Build a floor system just like you would build a low level deck.


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## Sean Price (Dec 17, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Really should have had them also grind the stump while they where there.
> I would not put anything near where that tree had been.
> Once the roots start rotting that areas going to sink and attract termites.
> Some of the joys of a plastic or metal shed are trying to keep the walls and doors level.
> ...


Unfortunately "they" was just a dude with a chainsaw that I shared a beer with to do the job.. 

Question for you my friend.. this shed is a rubbermaid lead proff, high impact resisstant RESIN type, WITH impact resistant FLOOR included...

With all that in mind I figured I would be ok just dumping this anywhere in my yard without any flooring prep needed..

your thoughts?

Thanks!

oNe


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

So now all you need to do is find a dude with a stump grinder who likes beer. Buy him a case of something good, though, instead of just sharing one:yes:...it's worth it. But, if that's not possible, you could build an 8x8 frame with appropriately sized ground contact rated PT lumber around the stump and fill it with gravel ( at least 2" more than the height of the stump above ground level), then drop your 7x7 shed in place on the gravel bed. You don't provide your location, so I'll leave it for you to decide if tie-downs are a concern. That should be stable for at least a few years and that shed shouldn't be too hard to move and make adjustments if needed after that.
Just one question, what does Rubbermaid say about base requirements, and, well, hell, I lied.......make that two questions.....why didn't you already read the manufacturers specs? I DO enjoy speculating sometimes, though:thumbsup:


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

I've got one that we've had for quite a few years and has been moved several times. I would take a bit of time making a level surface, a couple yards of 5/8 minus gravel should do the trick. If it's not good and level the doors won't shut properly (ask me how I know), and the hinges will crack after a few years. 

In reality, this shed won't survive the apocalypse along with the cockroaches and Keith Richards, so if the ground settles after the stump rots and it bugs you enough, just move it, relevel, and enjoy a beer.


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## Sean Price (Dec 17, 2011)

ratherbefishin' said:


> Just one question, what does Rubbermaid say about base requirements, and, well, hell, I lied.......make that two questions.....why didn't you already read the manufacturers specs? I DO enjoy speculating sometimes, though:thumbsup:


Nothing... I searched high and low before this purchase and its like TOP SECRET info there is little to no info on these sheds...

Per the link above the description states "Heavy-duty, impact-resistant floor included" 

So I figured I didn't need anything... [email protected] was I wrong


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## Sean Price (Dec 17, 2011)

Even before posting this I had figured to buy 5 pieces of a patio square bring, about 1 square foot each and put one in each corner and one in the middle.. 

Now I'm thinking, THEN throw a piece of plywood on top of those patio squares and then throw he shed on top of that...


I'm on Mars ground here, i.e. unknown so I don't know what 5/8's minus gravel means and mr. fishing lost me as well...


May need some 101 here gents..


Thanks!


oNe


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Burn the stump.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

http://www.rubbermaid.com/Assets/Pdf/rubbermaid-storage-buliding-5l45-assembly-instructions-2.pdf


"To ensure proper assembly and performance your shed needs to be built on a solid, level surface. A cement or patio surface, 
or a treated-wood platform is recommended."

That wasn't so difficult.....:whistling2:


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Sean Price said:


> Even before posting this I had figured to buy 5 pieces of a patio square bring, about 1 square foot each and put one in each corner and one in the middle..
> Now I'm thinking, THEN throw a piece of plywood on top of those patio squares and then throw he shed on top of that...
> 
> 
> I'm on Mars ground here, i.e. unknown so I don't know what 5/8's minus gravel means and mr. fishing lost me as well...


i wouldn't do that. the floor will not be solid, and it will get worse quickly.

5/8 minus = gravel that sizes from 3/4" down to powder. around here it is called "road mix".. when compacted it makes a nice base to put things on.
any pickup truck will easily hold the amount you need, it will be cheap and easy to handle.


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## Easypick (Sep 29, 2011)

I inherited one of these when I purchased our last house. The deck was built on PT setting on leveled patio stones. Deck and shed were fine for a few years, but come fall when its cooler I am going to need to replace/repair due to the deck rotting. 
What I see that needs to be done differently:
•	Ensure that that patio stones (Concrete blocks) are on a good crushed gravel base
•	PT lumber needs to be six not four inches above grade
•	Place a shingle or membrane to prevent any wicking of moisture from ground to PT wood via stone
•	Make deck the same size as shed (this is a big factor in failure of current base as rain will get between shed rubber floor and wood decking)
•	I have a slope to contend with so need to make sure water doesn't accumulate under the shed.

Hope some of my observations help so you get more years out of your base


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I have a a similar Rubbermaid shed that I got 5 years ago. I just leveled the dirt, compacted it as best I could with hand tools, and laid the shed right on the dirt. Haven't had an issue yet. It's not the best possible solution, but I would just do it this way and if you have problems in the future then look into building a more solid base.


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## Sean Price (Dec 17, 2011)

Easypick said:


> I inherited one of these when I purchased our last house. The deck was built on PT setting on leveled patio stones. Deck and shed were fine for a few years, but come fall when its cooler I am going to need to replace/repair due to the deck rotting.
> What I see that needs to be done differently:
> •	Ensure that that patio stones (Concrete blocks) are on a good crushed gravel base
> •	PT lumber needs to be six not four inches above grade
> ...


Thank You Easypick.. thank you all!!

This Has been a very informative thread!



oNe


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## Sean Price (Dec 17, 2011)

Update: used 4 pavers for each corner, built a simple foundation out of treated wood using 8 2x4's, 4 for square frame, and 4 across middle of square for support, slapped some plywood on top, built the shed over that, called it a day!

Total Time: 4.5 hours, started at 8am, ate our celebration steaks by 12:30pm.. me and 1 other guy did! 

learned a lot, thanks yall!


oNe


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

looks nice. 

but what you should do = is fasten it to the ground. a few of those screw in thingys will do fine.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Check with your city. Where I lived in Ohio and now Fla., a permit was needed along with a plot plan, or sketch of property, in case of setbacks, or easements.


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## PaulBob (Dec 5, 2008)

I have one of those sheds.. Its not a rubbermade brand but it is completely vinyl... My shed is 8 x 10 feet.

I made a base for it out of treated 2x4's and regular 3/4" plywood.. I then put about 4 heavy coats of oil based paint on the plywood and bolted the entire thing to two 4 x 6's to use as skids so I could move it around just by towing it.

One other tip.. If your shed has aluminum base channel that the walls slide into, before you install them, get a can of polyurethane clear coat and spray them down.. The poly coat will stop the aluminum from oxidizing and turning that ugly rust/gray color and or pitting for oxidation. 

Make sure you use decking screws (NOT NAILS) to put everything together. 

Also, if your shed is held together by sheet metal screws into the plastic, do yourself a favor and swap them out for stainless.. For some reason, the cheap plated screws corrode pretty quickly.

My shed has been in 60 mph winds with no issues.. Its also filled with about a 1000 lbs of stuff and the heavy wood base weighs around 500 lbs itself.

Some other poster here suggested that the base be absolutely no larger than the shed or water can leak in.. This is good advice! You also want to put down a silicone bead under the aluminum wall channels before screwing them down to the base.

Hope that helps,


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## Sean Price (Dec 17, 2011)

Fix'n it said:


> looks nice.
> 
> but what you should do = is fasten it to the ground. a few of those screw in thingys will do fine.


Was actually going to ask about that.. For now I just used some of those 4" screws all along the base on the exterior... Seems pretty solid, i.e. wind alone won't move it.. but Is that enough?


No idea what the "screw in thingys" are?


Inside the shed it has what looks like 4 indentions on each corner as if to suggest a peg of some sort should go there?

any input is appreciated!


oNe


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