# do you have to mix the mud?



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

The basics of mud----

There are three basic types of drywall compound---

Powdered easy sand---20--45--90 minute setting times--Used for packing cracks and voids before paper tape is set. Used to fill corner bead.
Some use this for embedding the tape and for the first coat. Very hard to sand.


All Purpose--green lid---contains glue --used to embed paper tape---some pros use this for all coats--
Hard to sand---

Light Weight--blue lid---used for final top coat--very easy to sand---do not use this to embed tape---

As to mixing---the powdered--mix in your pan with a 6" blade.

Bucket mud is mixed with a drywall paddle and a strong drill. Some times a splash of water is added to get the mud to the liking of the taper.

For a small job,like your bathroom, Mix it in the pan----use the 6" blade and work the mud until it's nice and creamy.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

if im not rushed(im always rushed haha) i paper tape with http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...c-all-purpose-drywall-compound.aspx?pType=PRO the green box because i've found it has the most glue in it and you'll have no bubbles in your time. 
then second and 3rd coat i use http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/...ductDatasheet_Gypsum_1277466278691/Product_EN
it is by far the smoothest nicest mud out there and easiest to sand. 
depending on how rushed i'll use the powder sheetrock http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/joint-treatment/setting-type-compounds/sheetrock®45.aspx?pType=PRO
for my first and second coat but i wouldnt recommend it to a novice because the stuff is a lot harder to sand.


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## All thumb's (Jun 11, 2012)

princelake said:


> if im not rushed(im always rushed haha) i paper tape with http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/j...c-all-purpose-drywall-compound.aspx?pType=PRO the green box because i've found it has the most glue in it and you'll have no bubbles in your time.
> then second and 3rd coat i use http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/...ductDatasheet_Gypsum_1277466278691/Product_EN
> it is by far the smoothest nicest mud out there and easiest to sand.
> depending on how rushed i'll use the powder sheetrock http://www.cgcinc.com/en/products/joint-treatment/setting-type-compounds/sheetrock®45.aspx?pType=PRO
> for my first and second coat but i wouldnt recommend it to a novice because the stuff is a lot harder to sand.


Thanks but I don't live in Canada. The only Drywall products here is USG brands the Green lid and blue lid.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Yes you have to mix the mud. Why? because even though it is ready mixed kinda a lie but it would be even heavier with the added water. Also when you add the water it starts the curing processes. You want the mud to be like warm frosting. this is what I use for taping http://www.usg.com/beadex-taping-joint-compound.html 
then I let that dry for 24 hours then I use this for the second and third coats.
http://www.usg.com/beadex-lite-topping-joint-compound-ready-mixed.html
These are found only in the PNW. Good luck


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

Beadex all-purpose has a red lid.
Sheetrock all-purpose has a green lid.
Beadex AP light has a teal label on the box, haven't seen it packaged in buckets.
Sheetrock AP light has a blue lid.



Nailbags said:


> Yes you have to mix the mud. Why? because even though it is ready mixed kinda a lie but it would be even heavier with the added water. Also when you add the water it starts the curing processes. You want the mud to be like warm frosting. this is what I use for taping http://www.usg.com/beadex-taping-joint-compound.html
> then I let that dry for 24 hours then I use this for the second and third coats.
> http://www.usg.com/beadex-lite-topping-joint-compound-ready-mixed.html
> These are found only in the PNW. Good luck


 
The pre-mixed beadex w/ red lid will work fine with no added water. You should still mix it up a bit, in your mud pan, with your taping knife, to get the pre-mix to soften a bit. I do add a little bit of water in the mud pan, for a slightly looser mix. However, when the instructions on the bucket are read, you'll find it is not necessary to add any water. It has nothing to do with the curing process. Only with setting-type joint compound, does water start a chemical reaction.

Although Beadex is only sold in the PNW, I believe the other USG brand, "Sheetrock" can be found elsewhere in the US.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Seattle2k said:


> The pre-mixed beadex w/ red lid will work fine with no added water.,


Just a question for you? Have you ever loaded a banjo with red lid beadex un mixed right out of the box? and went to tape? It does not work good. I add about a half cup of water to it and mix it till is is smooth and creamy like I said warm cake frosting or thick pancake batter so it flows on to my tape coming out of my banjo or tape Bazooka. If I used right out of the box for taping it would really be hard to work with. Now to use it on top coating its fine but I like the yellow orange or light blue. And for a small job yeah you can use it right out of the box for taping but I would still add some water to mix it.
Not to be rude, The OP is from the PNW and that is why I gave the information on Beadex


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

Nailbags said:


> Just a question for you? Have you ever loaded a banjo with red lid beadex un mixed right out of the box? and went to tape? It does not work good. I add about a half cup of water to it and mix it till is is smooth and creamy like I said warm cake frosting or thick pancake batter so it flows on to my tape coming out of my banjo or tape Bazooka. If I used right out of the box for taping it would really be hard to work with. Now to use it on top coating its fine but I like the yellow orange or light blue. And for a small job yeah you can use it right out of the box for taping but I would still add some water to mix it.
> Not to be rude, The OP is from the PNW and that is why I gave the information on Beadex


This is the first you mentioned using a banjo or bazooka, therefore, I was not making any reference to mixing mud for either. I agree with you, a looser mix would certainly be better for either of those tools. Like I said, I also mix extra water into my pre-mix, even though they say you don't need to. I think we both agree on that. What I don't agree with is the necessity to add water to premix, for the purpose of starting the curing process. Pre-mix sets up via evaporation. Setting compound requires water to start the exothermic chemical reaction.

My comment about sheetrock brand mud was actually in response to oh'mike, for the purpose of providing additional clarifying information for the OP or anyone else who might come across this thread in the future. Lid color for one brand might not mean the same for a different brand.


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## All thumb's (Jun 11, 2012)

Thanks Guys I figured it out! You can quit the spat!


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