# Staining new Oak Staircase! Help!



## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Rose, firstly, all your staining and clear coating must be done prior to any painting. 
I would use a light paper, 150,180, or such and go over all stain areas with it, completely. No pressure, let the paper do the work. You're looking to sand out any burrs, splinters, pencil marks, etc. Sand with the grain at all times and avoid sanding heavily in small areas. If you concentrate too heavily on one spot, you might create a noticeable spot when the stain goes on. You have to evenly disburse your effort, in other words, a whole board might have to take a heavy sanding to bring it all down to the level required to remove a small glitch. A heavy sanding alters the grain a bit, differing from its surroundings. 
Vacuum up all the dust thoroughly. You're ready to stain.
I would use an oil stain applied with a nylon brush, nylon my preference. Practice on scraps first. See if you like it brushed on and left alone, or brushed on and ragged off after soaking in for a bit. I've done it both ways. Brushing and leaving it alone requires some skill in application, but it can be done. Remember, a little bit of stain travels a long way, especially on a hardwood. Most times I don't dip my brush deeper than a quarter inch/half inch. Practice, even if you have to buy some oak stock.
After the stain has fully dried, you can clear coat. NO SANDING AFTER STAINING. After your first coat of clear you can putty any holes with the appropriate putty to match the stain, sold next to the stain. Apply two more coats of clear with a fine sanding between first and second, using 220. 
Now you're ready to paint. Or, you can paint between the second and third coats of clear if you think you might damage the final clear, then apply your final coat of clear.


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

Thank you so much for the detailed instructions. I truly appreciate it.
Any suggestions regarding the stain products. I have read in several posts not to go with the stains sold at homedepot or lowes, and to use the products professionals use, but they fail to mention the name.
Hopefully, you can shed some light on it.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

I don't find anything wrong with Minwax products and they are sold at both of the big box stores.

One step that was missed, vacuum and then *Tack Rag* and then tack rag again.

You will want to apply a minimum of poly urethan on those stairs as well, I would suggest a satin finish applied with lambs wool applicator. Light scufffing between applications with 00 or finer steel wool and tack rag, tack rag, tack rag.

Mark


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

whats a tack rag? sorry for the newb question :S


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Its a cloth treated with an sticky substance that the sanding dust will adhere to. Sold at any paint supply store including those ones that every one goes to but hates to recommend, the apron and vest stores.

Get lots, you can never be clean enough when applying clear.

http://www.amazon.com/12-Piece-Tack-Rag-Cloth/dp/B001K3GN0W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1331593395&sr=8-4

Mark


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

haha!
thanks for the advice...lets just hope I do this and it turns out right..
I will definitely post the pics..


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Minwax is a good product just stay away from the Minwax Polyshade, that stuff will make the biggest mess you ever saw.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

If you use a tack rag, don't rub it on the surface, else you'll transfer the "sticky stuff" to the wood surface. Unfold the cloth to a sheet, ball it up and just glide it across the surface lightly touching. Use the cloth on the surface just prior to applying the finish, don't tack everything in advance, but as you go along. They're a PIA to use, but they're effective. Store them after opening in a jar or ziplock bag to prevent drying out.


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

Ohh my goodness..so many things to keep in mind..


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Yes, but the light at the end of the tunnel is the self satisfaction of being able to look at the completed project and know you both learned a bunch and you did it yourself.

Mark


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

you are absolutely right!


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Jackofall1 said:


> I don't find anything wrong with Minwax products and they are sold at both of the big box stores.
> 
> One step that was missed, vacuum and then *Tack Rag* and then tack rag again.
> 
> ...


Agree to the sanding between coats, but do not use steel wool if you are going to use a water based finish. Use a scotch-bright pad if using water based products.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

47_47 said:


> Agree to the sanding between coats, but do not use steel wool if you are going to use a water based finish. Use a scotch-bright pad if using water based products.


Yes I agee, if using water based products, but I don't and would not use water based poly, just haven't seen as nice a finish out of it and its more touchy as far as getting a quality finish.

Mark


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

One suggestion. Consider your lifestyle and your decor...if you have kids, pets, etc...and then consider staining the risers as well as the treads.

White risers are magnets for scuff marks from shoes and generally show every bit of dirt on them or every bit of pet hair in front of them.

Just something to think about before you hit the point of no return


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I wouldn't use water based products either, but don't know what the op will use.


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

well..i do have two active kids..7 and 4..I just love the look of white and dark stained stairs...an
what products would you suggest? are there any that people swear by?


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Minwax, satin polyurethane, and a high gloss white if thats what you want to do.

I would look at a Sherwin Williams product for the white, you can buy the poly anywhere.

Mark


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## Windows (Feb 22, 2010)

I hate to give this advice, especially on this forum, but that sounds like a job for a professional. Stain AND paint, new construction - brother, there are so many ways this could go wrong. The fact that it is expensive is a clue - it's a lot of work and it takes considerable skill to make it look right.


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## RabRose (Mar 12, 2012)

lol...really?
Now im in doubt


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

RabRose said:


> lol...really?
> Now im in doubt


 

aaah yes:yes:


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## Windows (Feb 22, 2010)

Don't let me stop you if you have your heart set on doing it, but this is an especially tough project because you don't even have the option to follow the pattern of the previous painter. And if it gets spoiled, it is twice as much work to restore it as it is to do it right the first time. It's manageable for a diyer who already knows painting and staining, but a brute of project to try to learn.


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## JSDNJ (Jan 2, 2017)

Old thread, but I was wondering if anyone knew why it is recommended to stain first?

I have a painter doing my risers and stringers but planned on staining the newel post and handrail when he's done.


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## getrex (Sep 14, 2016)

Stain gets on the paint. Nearly impossible to avoid if you want the stain to look right. And paint will go right over it so paint last or you will have flashing issues.


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## JSDNJ (Jan 2, 2017)

getrex said:


> Stain gets on the paint. Nearly impossible to avoid if you want the stain to look right. And paint will go right over it so paint last or you will have flashing issues.


Got ya.

As mentioned in my other post, since the treads are already done I am thinking I can get away with painting the risers/stringers now and then stand the post/rail after.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Ironlight said:


> One suggestion. Consider your lifestyle and your decor...if you have kids, pets, etc...and then consider staining the risers as well as the treads.
> 
> White risers are magnets for scuff marks from shoes and generally show every bit of dirt on them or every bit of pet hair in front of them.
> 
> Just something to think about before you hit the point of no return


Good point.... but it sure looks great when clean....:wink2:


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