# Does natural gas water heaters require regular service?



## House Designer (Oct 4, 2019)

About the only thing you need to do with gas water heaters is to drain the sediment from the bottom of the tank once or twice a year, and you should be fine. It is smart to check the anode occasionally to make sure that it has not been consumed. I have well water with a water softener. My well water is high in TDS (total dissolved solids,) which consumes the anode quickly. I checked the anode 2-1/2 years after the water heater was installed, and it was already totally consumed! My water heater would have failed in a few months if I had not checked and replaced it. 
Removing the anode to inspect it is quite a project. You have to wrap the tank with a large ratchet strap and brace the strap against a wall to prevent the tank from twisting. Then you use a 1-1/8" socket and a long 1/2" breaker bar (and several feet of pipe extension slid over the breaker bar) to break the anode loose. The manufacturers purposely overtighten the anode onto the tank with pneumatic equipment that develops so much torque, to discourage DIY-ers from checking the anode periodically. Replacing a depleted anode extends the service life of a water heater by years, which isn't in the best interests of the water heater manufacturers. A visual explanation of how to remove an anode rod is available on Youtube:


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## dpreznik (Oct 13, 2006)

House Designer said:


> My well water is high in TDS (total dissolved solids,) which consumes the anode quickly.


Thank you very much for your very useful answer. My new home will have town water rather than well. Would you think that could help with sediments?


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

I've always had gas water heaters and drained the tank to remove sediment many years ago. After I did that, the drain valve developed a steady slow leak. I mentioned it to my dad who said the same thing happened to him. My water heaters seem to last about 10 years without changing the anode rod, but I'd bet if I did that they would last twice as long. I have city water too.


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## HandyAndyInNC (Jun 4, 2018)

The type of fuel used to create the heat has nothing at all to do with service of the equipment per-se. That is due to the water itself. One should always drain and clean the water heater tank. Check the condition of the burner, replace the thermo-couple if needed, replace the sacrificial rod, etc... If you want to ensure that you have good water being heated, then place the correct filter on the supply line. There are many types of filters, all depends on what you want to filter away, or add to the water.


I service my two water heaters every 6 months. But I paid high dollar for each of them, and they are designed to last a good 40 years or so with proper maintenance. I never purchase or use cheap quality equipment or parts.


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## diyorpay (Sep 21, 2010)

So, House Designer, are you recommending that when buying a new HW heater, while it's on the ground and not installed, crack that anode rod loose and then retighten so it's easier to check in the future? Never would have thunk it.


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

The AO Smith units have a extended warranty but to get it you must install a second anode rod.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## House Designer (Oct 4, 2019)

diyorpay said:


> So, House Designer, are you recommending that when buying a new HW heater, while it's on the ground and not installed, crack that anode rod loose and then retighten so it's easier to check in the future? Never would have thunk it.


Yes, that would probably be a good idea. You probably would want to add some teflon tape to the threads so that it seals again.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

There is 0 reason to drain a water heater unless it's going to be replaced.
You only need to drain a few gal. out of the bottom of the heater about every 6 months to flush out the sediment and this holds true for gas or electric.
If you where to "drain" the tank and refill you can count on sediment being flushed up into the plumbing system and causing issues with anything down line from there.
The fastest way to remove an anode is to use a 1/2 impact gun, might take a whole 10 sec, to get it loose, no straps needed.


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## House Designer (Oct 4, 2019)

joecaption said:


> The fastest way to remove an anode is to use a 1/2 impact gun, might take a whole 10 sec, to get it loose, no straps needed.


1) I don't recommend using impact tools on a water heater anode. The water heater is lined with glass (porcelain) and you are liable to cause cracks in the glass which compromise the protection it offers from corrosion.

2) Average 1/2" impact gun only provides about 250 ft-lb of torque, which is not nearly enough to loosen a stubborn anode that has never been removed before. I speak from experience, having tried a 1/2" impact gun on my second 2-1/2 yr. old electric water heater, which had already consumed its anode and failed. The impact gun did not budge it; it took a 4 ft. long cheater bar.


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

Time for a new impact gun.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

I think some are confusing 'flush' with 'drain'.


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## dpreznik (Oct 13, 2006)

lenaitch said:


> I think some are confusing 'flush' with 'drain'.


Would you mind explaining briefly the difference? Thanks.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

dpreznik said:


> Would you mind explaining briefly the difference? Thanks.



To my mind, 'drain' means to empty ('drain the bathtub'). For a water heater, that means turning off the heat source and water supply then open the drain tap and an upstream hot tap to allow air into the tank, and let it empty under gravity.
'Flush' means to open the drain tap and let the system's water pressure flush out any sediment lying in the bottom of the tank. You can turn the heat source off if you want but it really isn't necessary since the tank remains full.


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## dpreznik (Oct 13, 2006)

lenaitch said:


> To my mind, 'drain' means to empty ('drain the bathtub'). For a water heater, that means turning off the heat source and water supply then open the drain tap and an upstream hot tap to allow air into the tank, and let it empty under gravity.
> 'Flush' means to open the drain tap and let the system's water pressure flush out any sediment lying in the bottom of the tank. You can turn the heat source off if you want but it really isn't necessary since the tank remains full.


Thank you for your explanation. It seems like flushing is what is actually needed, right, as it is all about getting rid of sediments?


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

dpreznik said:


> Thank you for your explanation. It seems like flushing is what is actually needed, right, as it is all about getting rid of sediments?



Yes..


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## ajaye (May 19, 2019)

Sorry I'm late to the party,

My tank is a rental, since new house build (15 years now)

I have, on another forum I got butt raped for even suggesting I had a rental.
For us it's POM, company has to maintain and or replace, for us it's $30 a month and you dont want a blown tank in Canada in the middle of winter.

Which funnily enough happened ! 

It for me is insurance, we also get a yearly checkup, and any probs we ring there 24/7 hot line

We also had to call them in for a disintegrated Dip tube and a leaky drain valve.

Not exactly good value for money, but for us it is worth it



dpreznik said:


> Dear experts,
> 
> I am about to but a house that has natural gas water heaters. I wonder if I should buy a plan for regular service? At my current home, I have for many years an electric water heater, and never bothered to have a special service. So do people usually buy service plans for gas water heaters?
> 
> ...


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## ajaye (May 19, 2019)

*crazy !!!!*



house designer said:


> the manufacturers purposely overtighten the anode onto the tank with pneumatic equipment that develops so much torque, to discourage diy-ers from checking the anode periodically.


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## ajaye (May 19, 2019)

OMGG thats is immense torque on there, you don't even do that on a car rim.

one tip I would also add, use a GOOD QUALITY 6 pointer, so you have as much torque on all sides of the bolt 




House Designer said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuvFLBTY6gc


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

Once in a while I drain some water out. Other than that, I ignore it. They have always outlived their warranty and that is all I expect. I am 2 years into my 4th unit in 40 years.


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## ajaye (May 19, 2019)

man changing this anode stuff is SO EASY

LOL, I love this 4 minute videos !


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## ajaye (May 19, 2019)

I'm not sure if your supposed to use Teflon tape and or putty or anit-sieze compound such as coppa slip ?
due to connectivity ? txs


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

Natural draft water heaters can spill exhaust - it's very important to make sure it's drafting properly.

Turn up the temp, light a match, blow it out and make sure the smoke gets pulled into the draft hood and up the stack.

These units have no vent safety switches - they are more likely to cause co poisoning than furnaces.


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## DerfIV (Sep 12, 2019)

House Designer said:


> <snip>
> 
> Removing the anode to inspect it is quite a project. You have to wrap the tank with a large ratchet strap and brace the strap against a wall to prevent the tank from twisting. Then you use a 1-1/8" socket and a long 1/2" breaker bar (and several feet of pipe extension slid over the breaker bar) to break the anode loose.





joecaption said:


> The fastest way to remove an anode is to use a 1/2 impact gun, might take a whole 10 sec, to get it loose, no straps needed.





House Designer said:


> 1) I don't recommend using impact tools on a water heater anode. The water heater is lined with glass (porcelain) and you are liable to cause cracks in the glass which compromise the protection it offers from corrosion.
> 
> 2) Average 1/2" impact gun only provides about 250 ft-lb of torque, which is not nearly enough to loosen a stubborn anode that has never been removed before. I speak from experience, having tried a 1/2" impact gun on my second 2-1/2 yr. old electric water heater, which had already consumed its anode and failed. The impact gun did not budge it; it took a 4 ft. long cheater bar.


I suppose it depends on who you talk to and who the manufacturer is. Now, I'm not saying anyone's wrong, but there can be different recommendations for different equipment depending on who makes it and what an individual's results are with that equipment.

Two days ago I talked with a guy at A.O. Smith, who made the six-month-old water heater in my basement, and they *recommended* using an impact wrench! Saves all that hassle with the cheater bar and such. And I've just ordered a 1/2" impact wrench that advertises 1,400 ft/lbs of torque*; it was supposed to be delivered today but I guess the FedEx driver got lost. I'll let y'all know how that works out. But I suspect that tale of cracking the porcelain is just that, a tale. At least in case of A.O. Smith water heaters. And I did find that recommendation in writing online, and that was a major part of why I called A.O. Smith in the first place, to verify that. Of course now I can't find the site where I found that information.

The reason I was talking to them is that the current water heater replaced one that was only six years old; clearly I needed to up my game on water heater maintenance. Where we used to live the water was naturally soft and I'd never even heard of a water softener. Never heard of anyone flushing or draining their water heater either. Here, the water is hard and we had to install a water softener, and that adds salt which in turn corrodes stuff. Like the water heater anode, and if that isn't replaced in a timely manner the heater itself, for example. Now they friggin' tell me.:surprise:

The manual that came with the heater (and yes, I'm one of those guys who actually reads the manual) said to pull the anode and inspect it in six months; the plumber who installed the water heater said two years. I also called A.O. Smith to reconcile those two recommendations although I suspected the plumber was right because he'd know local water conditions and the guy who wrote the manual had to err on the side of caution. As suspected, the plumber was right, it's two years in this location.

*About that impact wrench - yes, I know it's pricey. I don't care. I can afford it. I have other Milwaukee tools and they make really good stuff and I can use it for other things too. And I also ordered a set of impact sockets that hopefully won't shatter.


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## cocomonkeynuts (Jan 12, 2018)

ajaye said:


> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzecqGyCllU
> 
> man changing this anode stuff is SO EASY
> 
> LOL, I love this 4 minute videos !



they put the teflon tape on backwards


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

Might check your water heater before worrying about anode changing and such. Mine, installed almost 20 years ago, doesn't have an anode rod to replace.


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## DerfIV (Sep 12, 2019)

Mystriss said:


> Might check your water heater before worrying about anode changing and such. Mine, installed almost 20 years ago, doesn't have an anode rod to replace.


That makes me curious. I'm not doubting you, I certainly wouldn't claim to know otherwise, but how does that manufacturer deal with the electrolysis issues? Is it possible that the anode is attached to the outlet nipple and is not visible? For example in my reading about anodes I learned that many Bradford White heaters have the anode attached to the underside of the outlet nipple like this one Amazon sells: https://www.amazon.com/Bradford-White-Anode-Alum-nipple/dp/B016PF2KME

Ours has an anode all right, they don't hide it, at least on the model I have. And like I said, but maybe not clearly, where we used to live the water was naturally soft and no one I knew ever did any maintenance on the water heater. Like yours it was common for them to last 20 years which was why I was negligent about maintaining it after we moved to WV.

I should make a clarification about using an impact wrench to loosen the anode. The recommendation from A.O. Smith was to use it to *just loosen the anode*, but to use an ordinary hand wrench to actually remove it. I didn't ask why but it would seem reasonable that one doesn't want that metal core flailing about at 1,000 RPM or so inside the tank after it is loosened.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

I am only on my second water gas heater in my 24 year old house on city water. I flushed the original one a few times and changed the anode once, and it never gave me any major problems. I only replaced it when it was about 16 years old because I wasn't happy with the wide swing in temps from the old thermocouple gas valve. Set it at 120 and it would drift down to about 105 before kicking on, which made for some lukewarm showers on cold mornings depending on when it ran last. It was always like that.

My current water heater has a digital control and keeps temps in a narrower and more accurate band. Plus, since it has a digital control it requires connection to 120V power which has another benefit... the water heater has a powered anode instead of an inert consumable anode. So that is one more thing not to have to worry about. Something to consider when it comes time to replace yours, perhaps.


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## Mystriss (Dec 26, 2018)

DerfIV said:


> That makes me curious. I'm not doubting you, I certainly wouldn't claim to know otherwise, but how does that manufacturer deal with the electrolysis issues? Is it possible that the anode is attached to the outlet nipple and is not visible? For example in my reading about anodes I learned that many Bradford White heaters have the anode attached to the underside of the outlet nipple like this one Amazon sells: https://www.amazon.com/Bradford-White-Anode-Alum-nipple/dp/B016PF2KME
> 
> Ours has an anode all right, they don't hide it, at least on the model I have. And like I said, but maybe not clearly, where we used to live the water was naturally soft and no one I knew ever did any maintenance on the water heater. Like yours it was common for them to last 20 years which was why I was negligent about maintaining it after we moved to WV.
> 
> I should make a clarification about using an impact wrench to loosen the anode. The recommendation from A.O. Smith was to use it to *just loosen the anode*, but to use an ordinary hand wrench to actually remove it. I didn't ask why but it would seem reasonable that one doesn't want that metal core flailing about at 1,000 RPM or so inside the tank after it is loosened.


It's apparently got a special stainless steel in it that doesn't corrode. Here's a brochure from the brand I have [pretty sure anyway]:

http://www.htproducts.com/literature/lp-81.pdf

Ours has been installed since 2004 and no problems at all with it. I was worried about "flushing" it or whatever [well water and water softener], but the guys that installed it (and warranty our whole system) said there's not even a reason to have annual "heating system inspections" because unless we see a leak in the copperpus or it stops working there's nothing wrong. We've had them out twice; once because a valve thingy malfunctioned and once cause we had leaks at the boiler. It's alledgedly a "zero maintenance" setup, I was super skeptical at first, but just shy of 20 years in now I suppose I have to believe their hype now lol


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## Calson (Jan 23, 2019)

Ask your new neighbors if they have had any issues with their hot water heaters failing prematurely. If they say they have not then I would forget about it.


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## DerfIV (Sep 12, 2019)

Calson said:


> Ask your new neighbors if they have had any issues with their hot water heaters failing prematurely. If they say they have not then I would forget about it.


There is that to do; we'll see neighbors more often as the weather gets warmer. We're one of the "original settlers" here since we bought the house new in September 2002. The first water heater lasted about 10 years, and at the time the plumbers who installed the replacement said that was about normal for this area so I didn't think much of it and just chalked it up to the water in this area. The second only lasted about six years and that's what made me more inquisitive about it and I started reading more. So on this new third one I intend to be more proactive about maintenance on it.

In any event I now have everything needed to replace the anode with (I hope) a minimum of fuss. With a plumber charging about $200 to replace the anode, the cost of the impact wrench and impact sockets will be cost-effective at the second anode replacement. And like I mentioned, having ready access to an impact wrench will be a welcome luxury for dealing with all future stubborn nuts and bolts elsewhere instead of the old standbys of breaker bars, cheater bars, and cussing.:smile:


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