# French doors leaking water



## ktkelly

I doubt that the threshold is sealed underneath where it should be.

I had this problem and the only way I managed to stop the water entry was to remove the entire door assembly and start over.


Seems the installer had not even bothered to wrap the opening on the sides or top. as well as not laying a nice fat bead of sealing caulk under the threshold.



While you MAY be able to stop the water with caulking (on the outside and inside), the right way is to remove and re-install properly...


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## Annalee123

Yeah, I have a feeling the previous owner just slapped this door together. You can't tell in the dark pictures, but during the day the gap between the two doors is so big you can see light coming through it. The water isn't leaking from the center, but the gap is ridiculous.

We have been talking it over and I don't think we will feel confident installing our laminate floors until we are sure this door is 100% correct. I did a search on craigslist and found an independent door installer. He is license and insured. I sent him an email with the pictures and said the door will likely just need to be pulled out and completely reinstalled. Any idea what something like that might cost? We are in the Sacramento, CA region. We have depleted our resources trying to fix the problems the previous owner created (I.E. things like moving the air conditioner unit to a space with only 2 inches clearance on THREE sides to make room for his hot tub...)


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## oh'mike

You will have to ask him--but that job should take two carpenters about 5 to 6 hours and use about $100 to $150 in trim,flashing and supplies---

Could be less time if no rot is found---might be more if the rim joist is rotted---


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## Daniel Holzman

French door installations, while not rocket science, are notorious for being poorly done, resulting in leaks. As has been noted by others, it is essential that the door be properly flashed on the sides and across the top. There are different ways to do the flashing, but if the work was done by the homeowner, they may not have understood the need to use a metal drip cap, and they might have done the sides incorrectly. I have seen the bottom done incorrectly several times.

The threshold should be a high quality unit specifically sized for the door. My Marvin doors came with an integral threshold, which still required preparation of the floor below, and installation of waterproof caulking underneath the threshold. Some manufacturers recommend use of a sealed metal or vinyl pan under the door. Make sure that whomever you hire guarantees their work in writing against leakage, which may be an issue since the door is not new.


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## Windows on Wash

+1 to everything said.

When it comes to doors, duplicative efforts are not a waste of time. Sill pans and flashings are fantastic investments and if your installer is top notch, they will want to use them.


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## Annalee123

Just wanted to update that we decided to just have this door removed and a new sliding glass door put in. We found a contractor with excellent reviews. He came and took a look at it and said that it was obvious someone had difficulty installing this door. He pointed out the huge screws in the threshold and said that is not how it should have been done. He said he could try ripping out the door and redoing it, but that he wouldn't be able to guarantee it against leaks. 

He was going to charge $500 for labor either way so we decided if we're going to pay that much in labor we might as well just get a brand new door. That seems like an okay price to me. He's going to bring another worker with him and they are going to replace the trim we will have to rip out and also patch the concrete that the previous homeowners sawed down. 

We are pretty much out of money so we had to go with the cheapest sliding door at Home Depot. It is Jeld-Wen brand and was $400. It actually had good reviews at their website so I'm hoping it will be okay.

Wish us luck and thanks for the info!!


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## joecaption

Unless I'm not seeing on of your pictures correctly it looks like someone pored a slab right up to the sill on the outside of the house.
A huge no no.
Now water can get in under that whole wall unless the sidinging is pulled off and the wall gets flashed and Storm and Ice shiels added.
Also under that door it needs a jamb sill like this.

http://jamsill.com/

It will stop water from getting in from all sides and from the outside edges.
Not sure why but any Lowes or HD I've been to do not sell them. A real lumber yard near by may have one.

If I was you I would also have them change out that high maintaince wooden brick molding and replace it with PVC.


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## Annalee123

Yes, there is a concrete pad outside that door and they sloped it up to meet the threshold. The contractor said that is a big no no, but there's not much we can do without jackhammering out the whole pad. He said it shouldn't affect the new sliding glass door, but that it is something we should consider fixing in the future.

The contractor said he would spread out 2 tubes of silicone caulking and firmly press the threshold into place. I like the idea of that Jamsill product you posted though. The installation is taking place next Saturday so I will try to locate that product before then. I'm wondering if it would even fit in place with the concrete the same height as the opening though?


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## joecaption

It can be done one of two ways. I have a Toe Kick saw and a diamond blade I use to cut out the concrete.
If he does not have one then just trim off the sill where it makes the bend down on the outside.
At least 3 times I get calls for rotted out subflooring right at a doorway. Evertimes it's because no one followed code which says there has to be at least 4" below that threshold, and siding is not suppost to be within 12" of grade.


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