# hiding butt joints - need help



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

first thing is get a 12" good quality drywall knife, then just do one side of the seam and let dry then do the other side after it drys. you should finish up with a butt joint well over 24" wide so thar you are feathered out from the center line. with some gentle sanding and touch up your hump will feather out and be a thing of the past


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

now you see why a pro does not place butt joints on a stud. you use a tapered backer board which pulls the ends in and allows for a joint with no bulges.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Bob hit the nail on the head: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/how-to/tips/invisible-drywall-butt-joints.aspx

Be safe, Gary


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## kgphoto (Dec 2, 2007)

"Best" quality usually means some type of butt joint tool or product. Standard is just to feather it out the 24 inches like in the first response.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Products such as the "butt backer" isn't that commonly used. I've got "samples" sitting around I haven't used, but intend to some day. They cost several dollars apiece as I recall, so wouldn't be used by many pros in a whole house situation. Maybe a basement. They are a good concept....


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## homerb (May 7, 2010)

a 12" quality knife is a good too to use because it helps you feather out the joint compound smoothly. 

You'll have to do it in several coats. You can also use the 12" knife as a straight edge as you sand down the joint compound after it dries. Take a shop light and hold it up to the side of the wall to reveal the imperfections as you sand it down.

Homer


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## kgphoto (Dec 2, 2007)

It is even better to use the light when you APPLY the mud so you can see the problems you are creating that you will have to sand later.


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## masterofall (May 27, 2010)

Use a curved trowel not a knife. Cover either side from the centre then use your 12" knife later to smooth out. Sounds like to much mud under the tape


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