# Room above Garage



## Keptphree (May 25, 2016)

So had a little water incident and we will have to tear out all the insulation in the garage cieling which is where the bedroom is. Is there some things we can do to address while the wall is open to control the temperature better in the room? See attached pics.
Should we close this gap or use foam insulation in the garage cieling?


Any suggestions would be great before we close back up the walls with drywall.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Yes. More pics help but the long and short is to air seal and create some radiant barrier. 



Where is the home? Temp ranges?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Hang up old quilts or shipping blankets, things like that will help some.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

The sub floor is considered a vapour barrier so the paper makes two.
I would fill the space with batt insulation, the drywall has to be filled and sealed when done.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

This allow outside air to get between the floor and the insulation. 

There should be solid 2x? blocking between trusses under the edge of the floor.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

There never is. 

Foil faced foam (foil out) works well there.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Windows on Wash said:


> There never is.
> 
> Foil faced foam (foil out) works well there.


Solid blocking is code there. It is also a fire stop and support for the edged of the floor


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

None of them do when we look at them. Wouldn't the drywall ceiling serve as the firestop here? Not a framer so I can't say, but they are open in my kneewall areas above the garage. 

On the support on the edge, it is really necessary given the 2x4 framed wall that is present? Nobody is stepping on that area as we see it here. 



I can take a picture of my kneewall in the bonus room that is above my garage and there is no blocking there. Just fiberglass to insulate it from the garage below.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Windows on Wash said:


> None of them do when we look at them. Wouldn't the drywall ceiling serve as the firestop here? Not a framer so I can't say, but they are open in my kneewall areas above the garage.
> 
> On the support on the edge, it is really necessary given the 2x4 framed wall that is present? Nobody is stepping on that area as we see it here.
> 
> ...



I know that 1000s of houses a built with out it, that does not make it right. 

We use T&G flooring for 2 reasons, fire stop and independent sagging when stepped on. Neither requirement goes away when the plywood is thicker and sagging is less likely 

Furniture stored against the wall could replicate the weight of a person. 

Air sealing from living space to non living space is always a requirement.
Drywall on the walls seldom makes it tight to the floor and I am no aware of sealing between the two that has been done in those 1000s of houses.
If that join between the wall and the floor was sealed in some fashion, would it be caulk or tape, now much movement would it take in an unsupported floor or dry wall would it take to brake the seal.


Any living space connected to a non living space must be fire stopped.
The attic is a non living space. 

Even with the block I suggest the drywall is still not sealed at the bottom and second block is required there. 

So tell me how would you fire stop, air stop, support the floor and back the drywall. 

These are the blacks we are required to install.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Bunch of the ones that I see have the subfloor set and the wall build off that so its at least 3.5" removed from the edge. 



Code is code. Not arguing that. I would still back that blocking with an approved foam and re-align the fiberglass, seal any penetrations in the wall, back the insulation with an approved radiant barrier to help with the heat and wind washing of the insulation.


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## Keptphree (May 25, 2016)

Pulled all the drywall out now so you can see a better view of my issue...

So if I am reading right, there should be at least some blocking between the T&G wall so that previous air gap between spaces it sealed? So when the drywall is repaired then it can be screwed to the new bottom plate.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Windows on Wash said:


> Bunch of the ones that I see have the subfloor set and the wall build off that so its at least 3.5" removed from the edge.
> 
> 
> 
> Code is code. Not arguing that. I would still back that blocking with an approved foam and re-align the fiberglass, seal any penetrations in the wall, back the insulation with an approved radiant barrier to help with the heat and wind washing of the insulation.


Not when you have trusses like we have here.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Keptphree said:


> Pulled all the drywall out now so you can see a better view of my issue...
> 
> So if I am reading right, there should be at least some blocking between the T&G wall so that previous air gap between spaces it sealed? So when the drywall is repaired then it can be screwed to the new bottom plate.


 Yes there should be a full sized block under the edge of the floor to stop air flow and fire stop as well as prevent any movement of the floor. 

Then a 2x4 nailed the back of that so it sits flush with the face of the wall studs giving you backing for the drywall. They usually go in during construction and getting them in tight will be hard and they will not be all the same size now. 



I would cheat, cut the lower block a little small and pre nail it to the upper block, put them both together, screw thru the floor to the lower block and pull it up tight, nail the top one in place, then from the attic side, seal the bottom one with caulk or spray foam.


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## Keptphree (May 25, 2016)

Should I upgrade the insulation? There was r30 in there on the garage ceiling. Would r38 make a difference? Drywall was 5/8" also.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would make the space full, you will never make the floor warm unless you are heating, the most effective is well fit insulation, iff you just stuff it in and leave gaps around blocks or light boxes, more R doesn't make any difference.Fitting insulation should be considered the most important part of the job and it should take time to get it right.


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