# sink drain pipe too short



## andyhome (Jan 23, 2020)

Hey, installing my first sink/faucet so ran into the latest problem.

I bought the delta 15999-dst faucet and it turns out that the drain assembly pipe is 7 inches too short, i.e. it doesn't reach the top of my p trap. Measuring from the base of the sink hole to the top of the p trap is around 12-13". the drain assembly is plastic.

Can I buy an extension to the the pipe I have? Or do i buy a new drain assembly that reaches down? And how many inches into the Ptrap does the drain pipe go?

Thanks.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

You can buy extension pieces. Make sure you get the correct diameter, 1.25 or 1.5 inch, and they often sell a variety of lengths. You can cut it to length so get a long one if you're not sure.


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

You can by a tailpiece extension. 

Lot of videos out there. Below is a link that I found quick. Should start at the 8:30 mark that shows the extension and how far the tail piece goes in the p trap

https://youtu.be/b_OSgwpteR4?t=511


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ne-Tailpiece-Extension-Tube-C9790BG/205153709

Get a longer one if you need


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## andyhome (Jan 23, 2020)

Thanks. A followup question if I may. This is all part of a "replace the bathroom vanity and faucet" project.

The new drain could line up so that the tail pipe enters the ptrap in a direct vertical line. We're thinking about moving the sink about an inch to the right which means, of course, that the tail pipe wouldn't hit the ptrap. 

The sink is a pedastal so it would be impossible to do do all the pipe maneuverings that I've seen people do. Is there a way to make the tail pipe just "slant" about an inch horizontally ?

I know that there are 'flexible' tail pipes but I've read those are to be avoided for clogging reasons. Are there rubber pipes i can use?

Thanks


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

the typical way to handle that is to rotate the p-trap so that the tail piece lines up with the drain in the wall. If the tail piece doesn't reach the wall after rotating the p-trap, you can add an extension to the tail piece as well.


If the the sink drain is farther off from the inlet in the wall than the 4" that the p-trap will accommodate, you'll need to add an elbow, maybe a 45 degree one between the tail piece and the wall inlet.


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## Abuc (Aug 28, 2018)

ZTMAN said:


> You can by a tailpiece extension.
> 
> Lot of videos out there. Below is a link that I found quick. Should start at the 8:30 mark that shows the extension and how far the tail piece goes in the p trap
> 
> https://youtu.be/b_OSgwpteR4?t=511


He let primer dry before gluing. I thought that was a big no-no?


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## andyhome (Jan 23, 2020)

There is zero ability to rotate the PTrap. See the pic. I really do not want to try and replace it because that will (probably) require me to break open the wall to unscrew the pipe that disappears there. That will be for another day when I redo the entire bathroom.

I want to shift the vanity an inch to the right so the down drain pipe, if left as is, will be an inch to the right. The question is how do I "bend" or slant it to fit.

I've added photos showing how the ptrap disappears into the wall AND of the ORIGINAL sink which we are replacing with a new vanity whose drain will be about an inch to the right.


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

You could use a universal flex line drain kit for bathroom sinks to get your inch. Not recommended though, because they are very prong to clogging up and not draining right, but they do sell them at any big box store. 



Hope you get it figured out and fine a solution soon andyhome .


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Replace that antique with a modern P trap. PVC or brass if the appearance counts.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

I would also replace that with a new p-trap assembly. That looks old and about ready to leak. Especially if you start wrenching on any of it.


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## andyhome (Jan 23, 2020)

I'll replace the ptrap when we take the wall down sometime in the next year or two. i'm 90%sure that if i attempt to change it myself something bad will happen and i'll have to shell out $400 for a plumber and then have to fix the wall, etc. I'm trying avoid all that.

I may go with the flexible pipe ... only my 2 sons use that sink so it should survive the year it'll be inservice.

Thanks.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

To answer your question in the photo, yes that is a slip nut (compression nut). It's unlikely to unscrew easily, or come off intact. If you touch that drain at all, you should be prepared to replace the p-trap. You might get away with cutting the pipe above that slip nut and getting a compression fitting on it, but I wouldn't count on that either.
I've not taken apart a connection like the one at the back of the p-trap, so I can't tell you what to expect there. Hopefully someone who's worked on those can shed some light on that.


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