# drywall thickness



## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

I'm going to order the drywall I need and just wanted to make sure I am doing it right...

My ceilings are furred down do make sure they are level, the furring is spaced 16" O.C.

I've read that I want to use 5/8" drywall, due to it's ability to not sag and warp with any changes in the ceiling (not perfectly flat etc) is this correct?

and even though the ceiling is 5/8", the walls should still be 1/2" due to how door casings are made, being designed for a 2x4 wall with two 1/2" sheets of drywall

we don't have any firecode around here requireing 5/8" except on firewalls.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Sounds fine unless this happens to be a bathroom, an apartment with party walls or a garage.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

joecaption said:


> Sounds fine unless this happens to be a bathroom, an apartment with party walls or a garage.


nope, just a bedroom / living room area


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Honestly, 1/2" will work on ceilings just fine at 16" OC. If you want to install 5/8" That is up to you. We have installed 1/2" on thousands of ceilings at 16" OC and have never had sagging issues.

If you do install 5/8", you should fasten the fields (non-edge areas) using 3 screws (or at every 12").


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Honestly, 1/2" will work on ceilings just fine at 16" OC. If you want to install 5/8" That is up to you. We have installed 1/2" on thousands of ceilings at 16" OC and have never had sagging issues.
> 
> If you do install 5/8", you should fasten the fields (non-edge areas) using 3 screws (or at every 12").


not sure I understand, do you mean the middle of the board where the joists are? if so I thought that was standard? if thats not what you mean, is there any diagrams showing this fastening pattern? thanks


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

tried looking this up and came across this

http://www.buyezrip.com/Drywall-Basics.htm

is the pattern in the image with the caption "Three drywall screws in field" the one you where talking about?

I am also planning on this being held in place also with construction adheasive, the walls always felt sturdier when you put the adheasive down the the drywall and screwed it... not glued it felt more hallow sounding when you hit on it


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Definitely use the glue. And 1/2" is fine for 16" centers. Like "AtlanticWBConst." stated, I've literally installed hundreds of thousands of sq. ft. of 1/2" on interior ceilings on 16" centers with no issues of sagging. If you're using one of the new "lightweight" boards, I know at least the USG "ultralight" is specified for use on 24" centers even when "water based texture is applied" according to the manufacturer (USA.com). And just for the record, I glue and nail all residential applications. Screws are fine, but if you break the face paper on the drywall (easy to do on wood framing due to the inconsistencies of density of the wood and unevenness of the framing), you stand a good chance of a "pop". Even the pressure of a paint roller can cause a screw to "pop". The glue will help once it sets completely. If done properly, nailing "dimples" the drywall without breaking the face paper. I do recommend screws for the DIY'er, just watch you don't run them too deep....


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i also agree with the 1/2" for the 16"oc. if your that worried about it use the 1/2" cgc sag resitant ceiling drywall.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Another possibility. You'll have to get it from a drywall supply. HD and Lowes don't carry it.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

bjbatlanta said:


> Definitely use the glue. And 1/2" is fine for 16" centers. Like "AtlanticWBConst." stated, I've literally installed hundreds of thousands of sq. ft. of 1/2" on interior ceilings on 16" centers with no issues of sagging. If you're using one of the new "lightweight" boards, I know at least the USG "ultralight" is specified for use on 24" centers even when "water based texture is applied" according to the manufacturer (USA.com). And just for the record, I glue and nail all residential applications. Screws are fine, but if you break the face paper on the drywall (easy to do on wood framing due to the inconsistencies of density of the wood and unevenness of the framing), you stand a good chance of a "pop". Even the pressure of a paint roller can cause a screw to "pop". The glue will help once it sets completely. If done properly, nailing "dimples" the drywall without breaking the face paper. I do recommend screws for the DIY'er, just watch you don't run them too deep....


 
I'm probably not as concerned with sag as I am with having an uneven feel to it like you get when your framing isn't perfect, I am trying to level it out with the furring and leveling it. would 5/8" help prevent this somewhat?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I don't quite understand what you mean by "uneven feel" especially on a ceiling. The only people who walk on someone's house and actually look up at the ceilings are people (like me) who are in the trade. Unless your framing is extremely bad, it sounds like the furring you're doing should take care of any problems.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

bjbatlanta said:


> I don't quite understand what you mean by "uneven feel" especially on a ceiling. The only people who walk on someone's house and actually look up at the ceilings are people (like me) who are in the trade. Unless your framing is extremely bad, it sounds like the furring you're doing should take care of any problems.


Like shaddows from bumps, when you have crown molding you can see it more where the gaps are, etc


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sounds like you're getting WAY too critical if I'm reading this right. And what you're talking about, 5/8" rock won't make a difference once it's fastened tightly to the framing. If you've got everything furred and leveled as you say, you can't do much more...
If you're worried about any gap (if you're going to add crown) there is always caulk.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Your chart for the fasteners is wrong. They say to use 1-5/8" for 5/8" board, then list a 1-1/4" in chart below. Staples only on multiple layers for the first layer. Here are standards from the manufacturer of the board, Table #3, pp. 5: http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/GA-216-07 English.pdf

And minimum Code fastening: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm

Gary


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## bcgfdc3 (Jan 28, 2012)

What type of adhesive do you use? I assume a general Liquid Nails or Loctite type construction adhesive?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I use the quart size tubes. I believe HD carries OSI brand (Ohio Sealants Inc.) Lowes, I'm not sure, and the supply yard carries OSI and DSA (Drywall Stud Adhesive). For smaller tubes, Liquid Nails would do I'm sure.....


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## rightit (Mar 5, 2011)

bjbatlanta said:


> I use the quart size tubes. I believe HD carries OSI brand (Ohio Sealants Inc.) Lowes, I'm not sure, and the supply yard carries OSI and DSA (Drywall Stud Adhesive). For smaller tubes, Liquid Nails would do I'm sure.....


I've not heard of using adhesive for sheetrock. Does doing so impact sound transmission? I'm about to hang 5/8 rock in an office space in my house and am double sheeting one (staggered) wall with Greenglue in between. The adhesive sounds good if it doesn't diminish my efforts to soundproof.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The main purpose for adhesive is to reduce the number of fasteners necessary and to help prevent them from "popping" as the framing lumber "moves" during heating and cooling seasons. For example, I use nails on wood framing. Sheets hung overhead get nailed around the perimeter and one set of 2 nails in the field of each joist. The walls get nailed around the perimeter and only the studs where you can push against the board and see it move inward get a set in the field. The rest (usually over half) don't need nails as the drywall is securely attached once the glue dries. If adhesive was not used, I would use two sets of two nails in the field on all joists and studs. You can tell if the drywall is glued in most cases by lightly banging on the board with the bottom of your fist. If it "rattles" against the stud, there's no glue. 
Best of luck with the soundproofing. It's not easy or inexpensive to get good results....


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## rightit (Mar 5, 2011)

bjbatlanta said:


> The main purpose for adhesive is to reduce the number of fasteners necessary and to help prevent them from "popping" as the framing lumber "moves" during heating and cooling seasons. For example, I use nails on wood framing. Sheets hung overhead get nailed around the perimeter and one set of 2 nails in the field of each joist. The walls get nailed around the perimeter and only the studs where you can push against the board and see it move inward get a set in the field. The rest (usually over half) don't need nails as the drywall is securely attached once the glue dries. If adhesive was not used, I would use two sets of two nails in the field on all joists and studs. You can tell if the drywall is glued in most cases by lightly banging on the board with the bottom of your fist. If it "rattles" against the stud, there's no glue.
> Best of luck with the soundproofing. It's not easy or inexpensive to get good results....


Thanks for the info and the idea. I did a lot of research on soundproofing and am pretty sure I've covered all the bases. Rather than glue on that wall, I may use sound acoustic sealant, which should help bond the rock to the studs and also serve to further dampen noise transmission. But, given that it's not true adhesive, I'll stick to the ICC tables for screw spacing. 

Thanks again.


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