# nailing aluminum flashing before caulking



## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

My contractor replaced my windows with a half-XXX fashion and before doing any window capping/flashing around the windows, he disappeared. 

Anyways, I decided to do the capping myself now, for the all four sides of the windows. 

I have been checking out other people's window replacement/flashing work. I don't see any nail s around other's window flashings. 

So, 

1. do I nail the aluminum capping in before caulking or do I put the flashing on without nail and just use caulk to keep it there?

2. Do I need to use hydraulic cement for the capping? Where?

If anyone knows of any good links on this how-to, I would love to see it. I haven't found any comprehensive one...

Thanks


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

Are you referring to a drip cap/ Z flashing above the window, or a full window wrap in aluminum? In the former, the nails are hidden behind the siding above as head flashing would be useless if it was on top of the siding. If the latter, pros usually hide as many nails as possible behind the caulk lines.

I would definitely recommend some very extensive research into this either way as it is one of THE MOST CRITICAL aspects of an installation. Done improperly, it will direct water right into your wall.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

This is a case where pictures may help.


http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-attach-photo-post-12559/


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

It will be all 4 sides of the windows, to hide the gaps between the old frames and the new windows.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

That would more commonly be referred to as capping or wrapping.

Flashing is at the connection to the sheathing of the home and the window frame.

Sounds as if you had some insert windows installed and they were not capped.

+1 on pictures.


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

Here are pics. I think you are right, It is called capping...

So, nail before caulking or not?

hydraulic cement needed?

Thanks a lot!!


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

Holy foam batman! Are you sure that Mike Holmes didn't install those?:laughing: 
Seriously though, I hope that is just an inexperienced application of LOW expansion foam, and not HIGH expansion foam-- as that may cause some problems. Nail the trim where you can (try to hide behind caulk lines) , and then caulk. Can't see the detail on the sides, but you may need to add wood so you have something to attach the trim to.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Wowsers is right.

Was that window and door foam?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Is it just me or does anyone else see none of this install looks right?


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

It is low-expansion foam. Did I mention that the contractor was Half-ASS?

The foam may be the only thing that he did right w/o my arguement. But he used about 10 cans for the 4 windows!!!!!....

I will do some better shots to show the all 4 sides of the windows. 

Don't think I would need more wood... I will take more pics of the capping that is the local "style" in the neighbourhood as well. 

Up here in our corner of world, maybe a lot of things are differnetly done.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Is it just me or does anyone else see none of this install looks right?


Those extra 2x4s are for added structure....

The foam threw me off a bit.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why would someone foam the gaps before triming out the outside.
Look how narrow the window frame is at the top.
How would you add trim on that narrow an area and expect it to seal?
Was any wood added on the sides or bottom of the windows?


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

There are 2x6s on top and on bottom of the replacement window, as the new windows are not as tall as the original ones. There is no wood on the either side, as there was only about 1/4-1/2inch on the sides, which was filled by the foam. 

It was a horrific experience to have that contractor... and he disappeared...


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

that foam may have been put in via disposable can and nozzle as opposed to a foam gun. without a real gun its a real mess no matter how good you are.

as for the flashing.. typically with a z flashing and siding never caulk the top of the window where the gap between siding and flashing is.. you have to allow the water that gets behind the siding to get out.. though in your situation your dealing with brick, your going to have to get access to a alumnum brake or hire someone who can doing cladding to properly seal that window and door


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If that's pressure treated wood then aluminum coils stock can not come in contact with it or the finish will blister off.
Who do you plan on triming out the sides when they did not leave anything to attach it to?
Should have had framing on all sides and built in brick moulding on the window frame.
Since windows never have fastners in the top and bottom how are they held in place.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1 on the coil stock if it is uncoated on the back.

Many of the coil stocks are painted on both sides now. If that is the case, you should be fine.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You would think so but that's not the case.
Try it and see what starts happening around where the nails go is. They act as a conductor, once it starts to fail the finish starts peeling off.
The boxes still say right on them not to do it.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Coil nails are usually coated and stainless. I agree that its nota good idea but you can back caulk the trim and effectively glue it on.


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

The outside opening is a lot smaller than the inside opening. There are wooden framing on the vertical sides, which is hidden by bricks, looking from outside. The new windows are screwed in to the frames. on both right and left sides with 3 nails on each sides. The manufacturer provided the 6 screws for each new window. 

I have found some companys here that are willing to sell me bended aluminum. I need to put the bended aluminum wrapping on myself. Thus the question of nailing and caulking. 

I am posting 3 pictures now: First two are my windows to be wrapped.Did I say that the contract started with one window on the top wrapping..?


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

Here is a picture of a common wrapping work done to replacement windows in our area.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

hohadcr said:


> There are 2x6s on top and on bottom of the replacement window, as the new windows are not as tall as the original ones. There is no wood on the either side, as there was only about 1/4-1/2inch on the sides, which was filled by the foam.
> 
> It was a horrific experience to have that contractor... and he disappeared...


Getting confusing, first you say there is no wood on the sides, know there's wood on the sides. Are you sure you do not mean there's extention jambs on the inside? 
With windows that tight and no rough framing on the sides, I'm not seeing a way to trim it out.


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

If I took a picture from inside, you will see that there is extra wooden frames on the vertical left/right side, to which the new windows screw into. From outside, the brick wall covers the wooden frames. 

Hope this is more clear now...


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The differance between the way the other ones where done and the way your were done is when they did the other windows they left the wood trim and sill in place like there suppost to. Just the sashes were removed and replaced.
With your they removed everything leaving just a hole in the wall then tryed to use a replacement window to fill the hole, instead of a new constrution window with flat jambs.
Here's a video on how it should have been done, and the right style window.
http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_replace_a_window_in_a_brick_wall


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

joecaption said:


> The differance between the way the other ones where done and the way your were done is when they did the other windows they left the wood trim and sill in place like there suppost to. Just the sashes were removed and replaced.
> With your they removed everything leaving just a hole in the wall then tryed to use a replacement window to fill the hole, instead of a new constrution window with flat jambs.
> Here's a video on how it should have been done, and the right style window.
> http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_replace_a_window_in_a_brick_wall


 
The replacement windows came in not only with the sashes, but also with the frames though. Please see the pic below.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

And that's the way they should have looked, but your from the pictures I've seen do not look like that.
The old sashes and middle window deviders some out but the outside stop is left in place so the frame of the new window can be pushed up againt it with caulking around the outside of the window frame.
Yours looks like they just removed the entire window frame including the sill.
With replacement windows the sill is left in place.


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

joecaption said:


> And that's the way they should have looked, but your from the pictures I've seen do not look like that.
> The old sashes and middle window deviders some out but the outside stop is left in place so the frame of the new window can be pushed up againt it with caulking around the outside of the window frame.
> Yours looks like they just removed the entire window frame including the sill.
> With replacement windows the sill is left in place.


 
The replacement windows are shorter than the original. Even with the sills left in place, more wood need to fill in the gaps. 

I am putting up more pics of similar situations: new replacement window is shorter than the original, so people added wood to fill in the gaps, and wrap everything with aluminum. The pic below is some replacement windows done in our area by Sears.


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

Why wasn't a properly sized window installed? 
I'm not crazy about what's been done here at all, but at this point to finish things off you'll cap the bottom and top, and probably just add a fat ugly bead of caulk on the sides. Other option would be to anchor a couple furring strips on the sides with tapcons, and those could then be wrapped.


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

HomeSealed said:


> Why wasn't a properly sized window installed?
> I'm not crazy about what's been done here at all, but at this point to finish things off you'll cap the bottom and top, and probably just add a fat ugly bead of caulk on the sides. Other option would be to anchor a couple furring strips on the sides with tapcons, and those could then be wrapped.


Exactly! just finish it off by capping. My original question was and still is:

1. Do I nail the capping on before I caulk around the seams? I don't see any nails on other similar jobs.

2. Do I need to use hydraulic cement to glue the capping aluminum to the wooden framing on the top and bottom?

Thanks!!


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

hohadcr said:


> Exactly! just finish it off by capping. My original question was and still is:
> 
> 1. Do I nail the capping on before I caulk around the seams? I don't see any nails on other similar jobs.


Pros typically hide the nails behind the caulk lines when possible. Yes, nail before caulk.



hohadcr said:


> 2. Do I need to use hydraulic cement to glue the capping aluminum to the wooden framing on the top and bottom?
> 
> Thanks!!


No.
Your welcome.


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