# Doors - Extended Strike Plates



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

If your pre-hung doors were installed properly you would not have to extend or grind anything for the doors to work.

Post a picture of the problem.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

I agree with Kwik. Will one of these Full Lip Strikeplates do the job for you?
.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

I agree with Ron, the doors were not properly installed. This sounds as if you used the 1x4 casing to trim out the doors, instead of a decorative trim. Not familiar with your area, but here new pre-hung doors would come with all the proper decorative trimming. This sounds as if the casing was installed too close to the door jamb(s). Look at your application and determine if the casing were moved 1/4"-3/8" _away_ from the door jamb with the strike plate, would this solve the problem? I can't see where extended strike plates would solve your problem as you describe. Could you post a photo or two to help here?


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Before I would jump to saying something was installed wrong, I would want to see a picture. There are plenty of doors out there with extension jambs, that need extended lip strike plates. An especially thick casing would require an extended lip, particularly with a 1/2" throw latchbolt. It's not that tough to square out the corners of the recess to fit the new strike. Extended lip strikes don't usually come with radiused corners because they are usually for a custom application. Radiused latches and strikes were designed to accomodate production line templates.


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## cbzdel (May 11, 2010)

yes the casing is installed with to little reveal, its about 3/16" of an inch, so the door latch is hitting the casing before it gets to the striker plate. An extended (lengthened) striker plate would solve the problem because the striker would cover the casing as well. I am not going around to every door to change the reveal, that is way to much work for me to do, the strikers sound like an easy option. I can try to get a pic up here soon.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

A internet search will reveal the strikes you need.

With a sharp chisel, you could modify the strike mortice in about 30 seconds each (well, I could do it in 30 seconds, could take you 45 seconds or a minute). It's no big deal


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

I just noticed you're in T-town. Builders Hardware in Seattle 206-281-3700 1516 15th Ave W


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

I also know a great young man(and it's not me) in Tacoma who may be interested in a little work, he is presently a Super for DPI


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## High Gear (Nov 30, 2009)

You may be trimmed out in mission style with the same thickness on both 

sides butt joints instead of 45's.

I'm following the same style in my basement project , just grind the corners

like I did and be done with it ......piece of cake.


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## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

You'll also need to know the radius of the rounded corners. They're usually 1/8, 3/16, 1/4 of an inch


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