# Brush/Vines/Small Trees



## hellothere123 (Aug 16, 2008)

All I can say is I ripped out some trees and wished I didn't...so first make sure you won't miss em.

I would take em down with a chain saw (use a saw if you can't handle a chain saw) and as for the roots I'd call in someone to remove em.

I saw it done, it looks like a horizontal saw and it does a great job with no mess...


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## Giles (Jan 25, 2010)

I am facing the same problem but over a larger area. Before I started, you couldn't even walk for a short distance without getting tangled up with vines and saw briers.
I have a Case Backhoe and a small tractor with bushog. Chainsaws and brush cutters are just a few power tools I have. 
I started by slowly bushoging the entire area without cutting anything bigger then 2". I then used my string trimmer fitted with a 7 1/4" saw blade and cut all the small trees and vines flush with the ground. From experience I think you will find that a Bobcat or Backhoe will do too much damage.
This is my ongoing project that I hope to get under control before the SNAKES and TICKS show up.


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## GardenConcepts (Jan 21, 2010)

+1 on what Giles said. That is nasty, nasty work and there is no easy way to remove all that brush without damaging the trees. Cut and pull, cut and pull....


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Depending on how you feel about using such chemicals, whether you can buy and apply them without a license, and whether allowed in your area? Concentrated brush and stump killers may help especially if applied to stubs and so forth. Careful with the stuff though. As suggested, diligence is probably the best approach. You will get it under control eventually. 

Do make sure you are not yanking on poison ivy or something! Amazing where the stuff can show up.

By the way, could you click on your username and update your profile to show where you are for future posts?


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

Thanks Guys - Perhaps I'll rephrase my initial question. I don't really care about the surrounding trees, if they happen to meet their demise due to pulling up roots than so be it. I get this area clear and have to PAY to have tree planted later than deal with another summer of this jungle.
I also rather not pay a landscaper 3k to come in and clear it out, getting rid of the debris is not a problem is how to get it out of the ground without taking months. There's got to be something?

http://www.bobcat.com/attachments/all_attachments

Couple more pics attached (sorry DIY doesn't allow large pics)


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I had 24' x 100'+ behind our pool area that was a mess when we moved in
I started little by little clearing brush out
Heavy gloves & cutters

Start on one area & work your way back
I've done the same at MIL's where her fence was overgrown


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

How large is this area? From the pics it doesn't look very deep.
Some choices could be:
Hire someone who is out of work in this economy to do most of the labor for you. I know, I can hear the landscape contractors now but ...
Rent a "Dingo". This a like a walk behind tractor with attachments. Very manueverable in tight places.
Use herbicide on everything from waist high down.

PS- Please proofread you posts. Some of your sentences are not clear.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

downunder said:


> How large is this area? From the pics it doesn't look very deep.
> Some choices could be:
> Hire someone who is out of work in this economy to do most of the labor for you. I know, I can hear the landscape contractors now but ...
> Rent a "Dingo". This a like a walk behind tractor with attachments. Very manueverable in tight places.
> ...


Landscapers use minimum wage labor all the time themselves. I thought of suggesting you call someplace like Labor Ready too. At least they screen people somewhat. As mentioned, make sure you can use an effective herbicide and get it from an herbicide dealer, farm supply or something not a box store. You may need a permit to purchase and use the good stuff if not someone with a license to apply it. And check to see what will be involved with getting rid of the containers. 

Even if you kill it, you still have to cut it off and dig it out of your way at some point. To be safe, you may not want to be working around the sprayed herbicide for awhile so check its half-life.


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## GardenConcepts (Jan 21, 2010)

If you don't care about the trees then rent a skid steer and tear out all the junk; just go in with the bucket level to the ground, back drag, and have fun. You could have a lot more fun if you can find a brush axe for the skid steer.

http://www.loftness.com/

You'll still need to use a chain saw, loppers, etc, but you should get most of the junk out with a machine.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Can't imagine there would be anything back there, but you might want to call for a free utility locating/marking in case there are phone lines or something before you start digging and yanking.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

GardenConcepts said:


> If you don't care about the trees then rent a skid steer and tear out all the junk; just go in with the bucket level to the ground, back drag, and have fun. You could have a lot more fun if you can find a brush axe for the skid steer.
> 
> http://www.loftness.com/
> 
> You'll still need to use a chain saw, loppers, etc, but you should get most of the junk out with a machine.



I like where your going here - that looks like some heavy machinery, I wonder if they rent those to normal folks? (I'm in Southern NJ, just outside of Philadelphia, if anyone knows of a place?)

Look like you might really have to know what your doing, as you could probably cause some serious damage if you dont. http://bobcat.com/attachments/forestry_cutter

I wonder if you rent one if anywhere offers classes etc?

http://www.bobcat.com/trainings/operators/forestry_maint_video


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

Judging by the size of type plants I see, some are very formidable. You can always cut them off at just at ground level or slightly higher. Some of these can send out suckers daily for years, unless the main mass is removed. It can be an ongoing problem for years.

A Bobcat or similar will allow you jerk out a lot of roots, especially if the soil is saturated in advance. You can also it use it to correct any grading and prep for new grass, plus it is fun!

Dick


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

so I'm going to buy a chain saw and cut mostly everything out that I can. Then rent a bobcat for a couple of days with a standard bucket? and use that to get the roots/stumps out? will that work?

What I need from you guys is two things:

1. Will this approach work?
2. What type of chain saw should I purchase? (keep in mind I've never used one before).


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## GardenConcepts (Jan 21, 2010)

The Bobcat will work, but may take a little while for large stumps. Make sure you get a bucket with teeth as opposed to a smooth edge.

For chainsaws, if you want the best, get a Stihl, Husqvarna, or Jonsered


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## Giles (Jan 25, 2010)

tb582 said:


> so I'm going to buy a chain saw and cut mostly everything out that I can. Then rent a bobcat for a couple of days with a standard bucket? and use that to get the roots/stumps out? will that work?
> 
> What I need from you guys is two things:
> 
> ...


I have a Husqvarna saw but there are many good brands that are cheaper.
Since you stated that you have never used a chainsaw, May I give a little advise?
Chainsaws are VERY dangerous tools if used carlessly. The best advise I have ever received concerning a chainsaw, was----Assuming you are right handed, every time you use the saw, "lock" your left elbow and keep it locked while cutting. Many times, a saw would kick back and the saw would go up away from me because of the locked elbow.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

Giles said:


> I have a Husqvarna saw but there are many good brands that are cheaper.
> Since you stated that you have never used a chainsaw, May I give a little advise?
> Chainsaws are VERY dangerous tools if used carlessly. The best advise I have ever received concerning a chainsaw, was----Assuming you are right handed, every time you use the saw, "lock" your left elbow and keep it locked while cutting. Many times, a saw would kick back and the saw would go up away from me because of the locked elbow.


Thanks for the good advice - alot of people said you have to be careful.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

I was reading this article on chain saws : http://www.articlesbase.com/gardening-articles/a-guide-for-first-time-chainsaw-buyers-72593.html

And thats exactly what I want to avoid


> One of the biggest mistakes chainsaw newbies make is mis-judging the type of machine they're actually after. Time and time again a first time chainsaw buyer will make the mistake of either buying too powerful or too ineffective a machine. Here's a good point to remember… ask an expert exactly what saw work you require and how frequently you are likely to use a chainsaw. This will give you a good starting point and in most cases, you'll get your answer very quickly.
> Safety issues arise when inexperienced cutters attempt to use bigger, more powerful machines without an understanding of the hazards involved.


So my question is, what is the right saw for me? (know what I have to cut)


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