# Venting a dryer in a chimney



## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

I want to vent my dryer into my chimney, but am worried about lint building up.

Can I just put a duct filter to trap the lint?

The chimney is only used to vent gas appliances, but still, I don't want to fill it with lint.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

You can't just put a filter on the line - you will clog up the line to the dryer. Dryer vents need to be free flowing with no obstructions (like screws or screens) for lint to collect.

I think your only choice, and probably only code-legal option, is to vent the dryer outside properly on its own line.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Please do not vent the dryer into the chimney.

Where is the dryer located? Why can't you go out a wall?


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

mae-ling said:


> Please do not vent the dryer into the chimney.
> 
> Where is the dryer located? Why can't you go out a wall?


Center of the room in the basement. The layout is tight, but it is the only way I could fit a bathroom, a kitchen/laundry (technically one room), a bedroom and a living room all in my basement (plus the boiler, hot water heater, ect)

Big problem is that the basement has a bunch of columns that hold up the house, and HUGE chimney, and a staircase. There aren't many ways to layout the room.

What about just using a screen instead of a filter? More airflow, should still catch a lot of lint?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just forget about that idea. Totally illegal, a fire hazard, may cause a fire or reliece toxic fumes.
That dryer never should have been installed in the middle of the house, long runs for venting are a sure way to have trouble.


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

What about something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Dundas-Jafine-TDIDVKZW-ProFlex-Indoor/dp/B000DZFTC6/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_0


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Hmm hot moist air blowing into the basement, not a great idea.


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Hmm hot moist air blowing into the basement, not a great idea.


Yeah - you could run a vent fan, but then it's pretty much the same as venting it in the chimney with a screen.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

ther should be a way to get that dryer vented to the out side wall...you may need to get a professional out for a look..Ben:yes: yes forget about the chimney


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## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

Lint is only one of the problems to overcome. The othe two are CO and moisture. Moist air venting into the chimney at that level will cause sweating and staining of walls when it condenses out. The bigger and potentialy deadly problem is when the dryer is venting into the chimney. The dryer vents with pressure. This presure in the chimney will disrupt the natural draft that other appliances need to function properly and draw out deadly CO. Whenever the dryer is running the furnace and water heater will potentialy be venting into the house


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

Does natural gas make enough CO to matter? My fireplace isn't even vented, either is my stove.

I know gas increases co2 and I think it depletes oxygen, but I thought co was only really an issue with wood?


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## tibberous (Mar 25, 2010)

If I did run a duct, any idea how big it would need to be? I could put one between the joists, but it's like a 10 foot run - I'm afraid it condenses in the duct and drips down.

Can you vent into 4" PVC? Because I could exhaust into PVC and slope it so the condensation ran either outside or into the plumbing.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

People DIE quite often from CO related gas appliances - usually furnaces. Natural gas is probably the #1 CO killer.

You can't use pvc. The static generated will cause lint to stick. 4" metal ducting is the way to go. I don't think a 10' run would be much of a problem. If concerned about condensation, slope the duct appropriately.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

And you can insulate it also


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Just have to repeat, it's so important: only smooth-wall metal duct- 4" minimum, it's own use, foil tape the joints- no screws, use a Type "A" termination hood for 50% more air-flow there: http://www.appliance411.com/faq/dryer-vent-length.shtml

Exhaust +3' from other house openings- pp.31-33; http://www.ci.broomfield.co.us/building/docs/2006IRCHandout0308.pdf

Basics: http://www.ashireporter.org/articles/articles.aspx?id=161

Just the facts; http://www.ashireporter.org/articles/articles.aspx?id=161

Number 10 of the "Top 10": http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/published-articles/pa-built-wrong-from-start

Gary


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

Gary,
A few weeks back, I was reading DIYChatroom and saw your sig (Not the first time) just as an ad for the Lint Lizard came on the TV. I walked to the laundry room and checked the vent (not the first time for that, either). To make a long story short, 4 (6?) hours later I had replaced the plastic vent hose with a metal periscope, relocated the surface mounted 220V receptacle, and cleaned the lint from the dryer interior and the vent hood. The dryer sounds different and dries a load of clothes about 25% faster.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

The manual for your drier should tell you how many feet of vent line you can use and how much to deduct for each elbow. Example, my drier can support 25 feet of 4" duct and requires a deduct of 3 feet for each elbow.


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## KatHelms (Feb 16, 2012)

Great information here. I didn't realize how bad the flexible ducting is. I am going to change mine tomorrow - thanks!


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