# How to: measure for replacement window



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

To measure mine I pulled the casings off the inside
The original windows were single pane may years ago & the sash weights were still there
The actual 2x4 framing was beyond the sash weights/old window 1x framing
So for RO I measure out to the 2x's

I used new construction windows instead of replacement windows
I'm residing the house too, so a proper seal on the outside was not a problem

Will you be taking the outside trim off to reseal ?
Have you replaced windows before ?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Start reading on page #164: http://books.google.com/books?id=b9...v=onepage&q=window flashing on stucco&f=false

Be safe, Gary


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

To replace the whole window, what Dave said. Pull off the tirm and measure the window frame. For a replacement window or sash, measure to the inside of the frame, and check diagonally to make sure it is square.

Replacing a whole window may not be simple. Often, it is necessary to remove siding and/or exterior trim. Replacing just the sash usually only requires removing the inside sash stops.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Will you be taking the outside trim off to reseal ?
> Have you replaced windows before ?


Hmm outside trim, I rather not take it out, in fact if I must I'll probably not do the project.

Nope, first time replacing windows.



Just Bill said:


> To replace the whole window, what Dave said. Pull off the tirm and measure the window frame. For a replacement window or sash, measure to the inside of the frame, and check diagonally to make sure it is square.
> 
> Replacing a whole window may not be simple. Often, it is necessary to remove siding and/or exterior trim. Replacing just the sash usually only requires removing the inside sash stops.


Pictures below are what I'm dealing with, do you think I need to take off anything on the outside or can I simply measure, take out the old windows and replace?


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## mark942 (Feb 2, 2008)

Try using a Zap Pak replacement window from JeldWen. Give them a call and see if it will work in your situation. I did my entire home........Good Luck....:thumbsup:


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

This is a perfect candidate for a replacement window or sash kit. The stop molding on the room side holds in the sashes, and there is a parting bead, that the sashes slide up/down on. With those removed the sashes come out, after cutting/disconnecting the balance. You can then install new replkacement windows or sash kits. Marvin and Weathershield make sash kits. Many make replacement windows. Avoid Pella, avoid big box, avoid those cheap windows advertised in the paper, you know 60 windows for a dollar ...........and if you act today......... You don't say where you are, I use Viwinco windows, east of Miss. www.vinwinco.com.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Looks to still have the old sash weights on either side of the window
If that is the case then there isn't any insulation in there
So you need to open that up when you replace the windows & insulate

If all of your windows are like this then you are losing a lot of heat thru the uninsulated areas


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

Thanks guys glad my windows are good candidates for replacements.

My assumptions - is that replacement windows will not require cutting the outside of the house nor removing anything on the outside of the house?

So I just want to make sure that I semi know what I'm doing before I commit so here goes:

My first step will be to measure the width and height of the window 'frames'. Which is outlined in the pic below? about 1/4' from where the window actually ends. Then the same with the height?

Go to a store and order my two double hung windows to the sizes noted above.

take out the windows - (not the frames)

.... Lets see if I'm good so far before going on


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Take a pic of the outside
There is probably trim between the windows that may need to be removed


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Take a pic of the outside
> There is probably trim between the windows that may need to be removed


Here's the outside:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

"My assumptions - is that replacement windows will not require cutting the outside of the house nor removing anything on the outside of the house?" --- Yes, no cutting. Page #177 and #180 show two types of replacement windows. Notice insulating spray (non-expanding) foam between jamb/framing after pulling pulleys. No need to open that up, there should be room to insert the straw end for foaming. Vinyl windows- measure 3/8" smaller than the jams on width where the old sashes rubbed and and for height: tight to the inside of the sill (right next to the sill board, as it slopes), minus 3/8" for play (which will still allow the stops to cover the centered gap). Remove the parting strip as in the picture. 

Be safe, Gary

Be safe, Gary


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> "My assumptions - is that replacement windows will not require cutting the outside of the house nor removing anything on the outside of the house?" --- Yes, no cutting. Page #177 and #180 show two types of replacement windows. Notice insulating spray (non-expanding) foam between jamb/framing after pulling pulleys. No need to open that up, there should be room to insert the straw end for foaming. Vinyl windows- measure 3/8" smaller than the jams on width where the old sashes rubbed and and for height: tight to the inside of the sill (right next to the sill board, as it slopes), minus 3/8" for play (which will still allow the stops to cover the centered gap). Remove the parting strip as in the picture.
> 
> Be safe, Gary
> 
> Be safe, Gary


I want to make sure that I'm measuring the proper places and that I'm able to insulate in areas where there currently is none. Maybe its my fault for not knowing correct terminology, but can you try to explain (again) where I need to measure the width and height? 

Also what about the current window sill? obviously the window replacement window wont come with a sill so I guess I either just keep the current one or buy a piece of 'new' lumbar and cut to match the current one?

Is there any question of needing to insulate once the old window is out? Assuming you need to run a bead of silicone around the window to create a nice seal but what about the cavities around where the old window was?


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

answered some of my own questions with the videos below but found a new one. The 'stops' mine are all crappy and old, I would rather not re-use them. Is that possible? Can the new window come with stops?

http://www.americancraftsmanwin.com/howto_east.cfm


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I would replace the stops and pre-paint them too.

You could do the whole thing from the inside of the house.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> I would replace the stops and pre-paint them too.
> 
> You could do the whole thing from the inside of the house.


Great thats exactly what I wanted to hear - where do I get new stops?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

There just wood, any lumber yard, big box, or good hardware store. 

Since my table saw travels with me I just rip whatever perfect little pieces I need.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> There just wood, any lumber yard, big box, or good hardware store.
> 
> Since my table saw travels with me I just rip whatever perfect little pieces I need.


Mine done seem to be wood - maybe we are not talking the same thing? Is it the inside casing?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Yes that is it, your new window will butt up against that and then you will install similar strips of wood holding the window in place from the other side. Caulk it all in, put your trim back on the inside and your done.

I also put 2 screws through the window frame into the framing on each side.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

maybe a stupid question but my replacement window would be one twin double hung correct? not two single double hung window?


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

tb582 said:


> Mine done seem to be wood - maybe we are not talking the same thing? Is it the inside casing?


You need to open up that pocket in the pic, remove the sash weights & insulate


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

It looks like you have a 2x4 (part of the framing) dividing two separate windows. If that’s the case I’d order 2 windows. If you could get a double, double hung, that would actually be two separate windows that are mulled together to make one window. Mulling two windows to make one is usually a $60-80 up-charge.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> It looks like you have a 2x4 (part of the framing) dividing two separate windows. If that’s the case I’d order 2 windows. If you could get a double, double hung, that would actually be two separate windows that are mulled together to make one window. Mulling two windows to make one is usually a $60-80 up-charge.


Right after looking at it again, it seems like it would be best to order two single double hung windows. I wouldn't know what to do with that 2x4 in between if I got the one twin.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

There are 2 ways to give measurements when you order windows, “rough opening” and “net frame”.

With “rough opening” you give them the size of the opening of your framing and the manufacture automatically sends you a window ½” smaller than the numbers you gave them so you have a little wiggle room to adjust the window when installing.

When you order “net frame” the measurements you give them will be the exact size of window you get.

When ordering replacement windows I always order “net frame”. 

In your case I would order "net frame", measure the width of your existing sash that slides up and down and that’s your width (width is always the first number in window size) As for the height, measure the tight number from the furthest up hill side of your sill against your stop up to the top of the frame against the stop and subtract 3/8” off the tight number and that’s you window size.

Now because of the slope of your sill, when you put your windows in there will be a gap at the front of the bottom of the window, you can either (on a table saw) cut a wedge piece to level out the sill for the thickness of the window, or the slick way to do it is to order the window with a “stucco flange”. A stucco flange is kind of like a nail flange but it hangs down a couple of inches without the nail slots. Then you figure out and cut the flange (score with razor knife and snap) so it rest perfectly on the sill. Clean look.

You also have another choice. You will be installing the windows "without nail flanges". If you order them without flanges that’s a $15-20 up-charge. Get them with the flanges. 2 scores with a new razor knife blade and they will snap right off and save you $15 for 1 min.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> There are 2 ways to give measurements when you order windows, “rough opening” and “net frame”.
> 
> In your case I would order "net frame", measure the width of your existing sash that slides up and down and that’s your width (width is always the first number in window size) As for the height, measure the tight number from the furthest up hill side of your sill against your stop up to the top of the frame against the stop and subtract 3/8” off the tight number and that’s you window size.


I was watching this video here: http://www.americancraftsmanwin.com/video/Wood_q2.mov it makes no mention of subtracting 3/8". ???



kwikfishron said:


> Now because of the slope of your sill when you put your windows in there will be a gap at the front of the bottom of the window, you can either (on a table saw) cut a wedge piece to level out the sill for the thickness of the window, or the slick way to do it is to order the window with a “stucco flange”. A stucco flange is kind of like a nail flange but it hangs down a couple of inches without the nail slots. Then you figure out and cut the flange (score with razor knife and snap) so it rest perfectly on the sill. Clean look.


Is the stucko flange rough, this is something that shows on the outside of the house??



kwikfishron said:


> You also have 2 other choices. You will be installing the windows without nail flanges. If you order then without flanges that’s a $15-20 up-charge. Get them with the flanges. 2 scores with a new razor knife blade and they will snap right off and save you $15 for 1 min.


Wasn't aware of nail flanges - out of curousity why wouldn't I use nail flanges to hold the window in???


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Well, if you want to go the other route and tear off your exterior window trim and possibly cut back some siding and install them in a “new construction fashion”, then you will not need nail flanges. 

Go back and read the details of the last few of my post.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> Well, if you want to go the other route and tear off your exterior window trim and possibly cut back some siding and install them in a “new construction fashion”, then you will not need nail flanges.
> 
> Go back and read the details of the last few of my post.


I definatly dont want to mess around with the outside - so no nail flanges it is.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’m sorry, I didn’t mention that you use the nail flanges in a “new construction type of installation” and you do not, in a retrofit, your situation.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

Yup thats what I figured no worries ....

My measurements come out to be 32"X45 1/4" does that make sense


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Sounds good to me, you’ll have to buy me a plane ticket if you want a guarantee.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> Sounds good to me, you’ll have to buy me a plane ticket if you want a guarantee.


were talking these measurements need to be exact down to a 16th of an inch, right - I'm going to go measure a few more times


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

A 1/16” doesn’t exist in window measurements. If you give them a measurement to the 1/8” what you’ll probably get is a window a 1/16” either way.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

revised numbers are 32x45 5/8 - I checked them 10million times and this is what I'm going with.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Cool, even if your wrong a ¼” or so it will only cost you a hour or two of frustration but by the end of the day, “mission accomplished”


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> Cool, even if your wrong a ¼” or so it will only cost you a hour or two of frustration but by the end of the day, “mission accomplished”


lol if only it was that easy... as I think I alluded to in a previous post, is the window sill and the stool all one piece?

I would like to replace at least the stool but taking a second look at the sill makes me think its seen better days. While it doesn't seem rotten or soft perhaps if its just as easy to replace both?? do they make a simple 'kit'? (I have limited tools so routering edges of the stool would be tough)


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

There is no "one diy kit fits all" that I khow of.

Yes, all the brown part (in your pic.) is ugly but if it’s "not rotted" then most of it will disappear when your new window butt’s up to the white and will cover all or most of the ugly. While the old window is out you will have the chance to sand, paint, or replace anything that you would otherwise have to attack from a ladder since you now have the opening clear.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> Yes, all the brown part (in your pic.) is ugly but if it’s not rotted then most of it will disappear when your new window butt’s up to the white and will cover all or most of the ugly. While the old window is out you will have the chance to sand, paint, or replace anything that you would otherwise have to attack from a ladder since you now have the opening clear.


 
Right, so I think the sill will probably be fine as you said it will be covered by the new window... What about the stool, is that something that can be bought or do I need someone with wood working skills to 'create' one. Since it looks like the stool is seperate from the sill, I suppose I could take off the stool and use it as a template and use my rotozip for the round edges then a sander to smooth out?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I your going to replace it then yes, yes, and yes.


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

I'm getting nervous now, my new windows should be here Friday morning.... This may be another stupid question but what keeps the new windows (besides the screws in the side) from falling right out? ??


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## tb582 (Aug 17, 2009)

just got word that the new windows are here... any list minute advice? or an answer to the question above?

Oh and also what type of caulk is used between the outside stops and the new vinyl window?


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