# Idea for loosening rusted hub assembly



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Whenever I expect old bolts to give me a hard time I like to douse them with PB Blaster a time or three, a day or two ahead of time. What are you working on?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

It's not the bolts. It's the hub assembly rusted to the steering knuckle - a very common problem


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Can you take a block of wood and hammer to convince it to start working it's way off?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Nothing works when it's rusted on there badly. People have tried using a sledge hammer to no avail. There are many videos showing ways of removing it but none of them worked for me


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've only replaced a handful of them but don't recall ever having any insurmountable problems.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I use a 1/2" air chisel and beat them off or a slide hammer. Have loosened lug nuts and sharp slow speed turns for stuck on rims. Brake shoes and pads are attached to the knuckles and the rotors and drum to the hub. I would be concerned about possible damage.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

No, driving loosens rusted rotors, not hubs. 






Next one, watch it to the end


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

2001 Dodge Ram 3500 4wd had to have both burned off. New seals and new hubs were in order after that.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

I was just gonna mention - heat. If all else fails. And even that might not do it if the rust is fused. heat with propane. Then pound it gently (oxymoron??)


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

papereater said:


> I was just gonna mention - heat. If all else fails. And even that might not do it if the rust is fused. heat with propane. Then pound it gently (oxymoron??)


So many times I've seen heat applied in the wrong area, that is, where the parts are stuck.

The way I was taught, if that on the outer periphery is still cold that on the inner area that's stuck can't expand. And the gentleman that taught that was absolutely correct. I've seen failure many times with heat because the outer diameter wasn't heated allowing that metal to expand ( draw ) that which was stuck while the stuck area was still relatively cold.

Example: a 4ft. diameter bull wheel on a 4" shaft with 0.001" interference fit / inch of diameter. The bull wheel gets 2 acetylene rose buds on the outer circumference for about 30 minutes with an occasional trip with the torches down the spokes but never torch the hub. It works.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

I don't have a slide hammer or air chisel, but I have heard that some are so stubborn that even that doesn't do the trick. I applied heat from a standard propane torch where the hub goes into the steering knuckle. Held it there for several minutes but had no luck. 

The hub buster looks like a great idea, but is it even available in stores or online order only? When you are faced with a problem in the middle of a job, such an item is not so convenient to get. I did try the trick with using the steering to push the hub out but my car did not have anything in the right position to press anything against.

Good point about the brake calipers being mounted to the steering knuckle. That's why I don't do this kind of work regularly


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