# Switch Leg - which is correct?



## icepal1999 (Jul 23, 2008)

Which is correct and why? Code reference if possible.

1) Power comes into light:
- White tied into white of fixture
- Black is tied into the black to the switch
- White from switch tied into black of fixture (taped black at both ends)

2) Power comes into light:
- White tied into white of fixture
- Black is tied into the white to the switch (taped black at both ends)
- Black from switch tied into black of fixture 


Thanks for your help in advance!


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

icepal1999 said:


> Which is correct and why? Code reference if possible.
> 
> 1) Power comes into light:
> - White tied into white of fixture
> ...


You could wire it several differant ways.
You could run to fixture first then run a piece of 14/3 to the switch box .
If you do it that way take the nlack wire from the feed and tie it to the black or red from the 14/3 and run it to one side of switch.
Then use the other colored wire black or red for other side of switch.
The white wire just gets capped off in switch box as a future neutral.
At the fixture box the unused red or black from the 14/3 gets tied into the black wire from fixture.
The whites get tied together with the white wire from the fixture.


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## icepal1999 (Jul 23, 2008)

Interesting. But the 2 scenarios I describe - which is correct. I know they both work , just want to be code compliant.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

icepal1999 said:


> Which is correct and why? Code reference if possible.
> 
> 1) Power comes into light:
> - White tied into white of fixture
> ...


#2 is correct, but new code requires a neutral at the switch location. No code ref.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

icepal1999 said:


> Interesting. But the 2 scenarios I describe - which is correct. I know they both work , just want to be code compliant.


Neither is legal for new work without the neutral in seitch box.


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## icepal1999 (Jul 23, 2008)

All existing. Just changing fixture and replacing the switch.

So #2 it is?


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

icepal1999 said:


> All existing. Just changing fixture and replacing the switch.
> 
> So #2 it is?


The switch will work either of the 2 ways you posted.
You asked what was legal code wise, you didnt mention anything else as far as details.


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

icepal1999 said:


> All existing. Just changing fixture and replacing the switch.
> 
> So #2 it is?


Yes, #2.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Disregarding the neutral requirement, #2 is correct. No code reference, but the reason is so that you don't have two whites connecting to the fixture, even if one is taped.


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## icepal1999 (Jul 23, 2008)

Great, thanks everyone for the info.

Ironically I did read about having the neutral in the box for new stuff - I think it was so new switches/dimmers that need a neutral now have one.


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## sirsparksalot (Oct 16, 2010)

plummen said:


> The switch will work either of the 2 ways you posted.
> You asked what was legal code wise, you didnt mention anything else as far as details.


Working, and correct isn't the same. I don't have the code ref., but you don't want to have two whites at the light fixture, even if one of them is taped or running to a black pigtail, as seems the situation here.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

Article 200.7(C).


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

sirsparksalot said:


> Working, and correct isn't the same. I don't have the code ref., but you don't want to have two whites at the light fixture, even if one of them is taped or running to a black pigtail, as seems the situation here.


Maybe im missing something here, I thought I read he was labeling the extra white wire with black tape to identify it as a power wire.
Thats what im seeing with both ways he wrote it up.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

icepal1999 said:


> Which is correct and why? Code reference if possible.
> 
> 1) Power comes into light:
> - White tied into white of fixture
> ...


Looks to me like hes identifying the white wire with black tape here, am I missing something here?
Or am I the only one that sees taped black on both ends of white wire in option one?
To me that means hes marking it with black tape in the light box and in the switch box, ive never seen an inspector tag something like that anyway.
Well I just looked up the article, makes no sense to me as to why they want it that way if its identified as power, but what ever makes them happy I guess.


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## icepal1999 (Jul 23, 2008)

Yes - the white wire is taped black at both ends (in the switch box and the fixture).

I too looked up Jim's reference NEC 2011 200.7 (c)(1) and it's all good.

Joed's response made since as well - don't want two white wires hooked up to the fixture - can cause confusion.

Does anyone have the NEC code reference for the neutral/grounded conductor to be present in the box?

I have NEC 2011 404.2 (a) exception.


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## RocketGal (Mar 29, 2012)

My confusion is with the terms. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think there is a difference between the terms switch leg (the conductor that goes from the switch up to the light to energize it; power entering the switch) and switched leg.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

plummen said:


> Well I just looked up the article, makes no sense to me as to why they want it that way if its identified as power, but what ever makes them happy I guess.


The down on white, back on black keeps you from having two whites at the fixture. Prior editions of the code did not require the white to be reidentified as it was assumed that it was understood the white was hot.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

Jim Port said:


> The down on white, back on black keeps you from having two whites at the fixture. Prior editions of the code did not require the white to be reidentified as it was assumed that it was understood the white was hot.


We were identifying them with black tape around here since the late 70s.
I got my contractors license back in 96 and in all the years of continuing ed classes since then ive never heard it being brought up.
Ive never to this day had an inspector climb up to check the inside of a fixture box to see how it was taped on a rough in/remodel inspection.
Of course I was also told at a young age to never leave a ladder sitting out for an inspector to climb on. Hahaha


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

plummen said:


> Neither is legal for new work without the neutral in seitch box.


Maybe or maybe not. IMO the main basis for a neutral to show up in switch boxes was primarily aimed at commercial work where devices like occupancy sensors are commonly installed after the fact and when a neutral wasn't present they were using the egc to carry the current to operate the device.. There are a few states that are now including an exception 3 to 404.2 (C). that amends the NEC requirement.

Exception (3) one and two family dwellings


404.2 Switch Connections (C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads . NCHBA proposed amendment that exempts Residential one-and two-family dwellings from the grounded conductor requirement at lighting switch locations


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

icepal1999 said:


> Which is correct and why? Code reference if possible.
> 
> 1) Power comes into light:
> - White tied into white of fixture
> ...


The switch leg(the conductor returning switched power from the switch to the device) cannot be white. The white conductor of the switch loop must be the conductor taking power to the switch. 

#1 is not code-compliant but it will function as electricity does not care what color the insulation is on the conductor.

#2 is code compliant and will function


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

I know someone will point out that there is no neutral at the switch location so here it is in #2


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## SGC622 (Dec 16, 2010)

hammerlane said:


> The switch leg(the conductor returning switched power from the switch to the device) cannot be white. The white conductor of the switch loop must be the conductor taking power to the switch.
> 
> #1 is not code-compliant but it will function as electricity does not care what color the insulation is on the conductor.
> 
> #2 is code compliant and will function


On a switch loop like in fig 1, you always feed the switch with the white wire and have the return back to the light black.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

SGC622 said:


> On a switch loop like in fig 1, you always feed the switch with the white wire and have the return back to the light black.


That is not what diagram #1 shows. Diagram #1 shows the switch being fed by the (constant hot)black-wire and the (switched hot)white-wire feeding the light.

It will function but is node code compliant.


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## plummen (Jan 10, 2010)

hammerlane said:


> I know someone will point out that there is no neutral at the switch location so here it is in #2


That was the first thing I mentioned.

:laughing:


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## icepal1999 (Jul 23, 2008)

Thank you all for the information. Should make this post a sticky!

As mentioned before - just changing fixtures and switches - wanted to do it the right way. Simple fixture and simple SP switch.

If I ever do new work, will feed the switch with a 3 wire if power is to the fixture. Obviously no need for a 3-wire if power to the switch first.


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## IslandGuy (Jan 30, 2014)

What is the reason for the OP to worry about code compliance in an already existing installation? There's no reason to change anything when simply replacing a fixture and/or switch. Code compliance kicks in for NEW installations, not upkeep or maintenance or replacement of an already existing install.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

In #2 I personally like to use the red as the switched power. There is no code requirement for that but a personal preference.


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

> What is the reason for the OP to worry about code compliance in an already existing installation?


 Because he is asking and wants to be sure his wiring is correct



> There's no reason to change anything when simply replacing a fixture and/or switch. Code compliance kicks in for NEW installations, not upkeep or maintenance or replacement of an already existing install


 Even if that existing install is not code compliant ... :whistling2:


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