# Questions about paint prep for exterior cedar siding.



## sirwired (Jun 22, 2007)

Easily peeling off in any form (chips or sheets) is bad. Properly adhering paint is virtually impossible to remove without damaging the surface underneath. If your scraper can remove the paint in sheets without working too much at it, I'd say it isn't adhering real well. The only difference between the chips and sheets is probably the chipping paint is less flexible than the sheeting paint. Either one can be a sign of poor adhesion.

SirWired


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## 240sx4u (Sep 22, 2008)

sirwired said:


> Easily peeling off in any form (chips or sheets) is bad. Properly adhering paint is virtually impossible to remove without damaging the surface underneath. If your scraper can remove the paint in sheets without working too much at it, I'd say it isn't adhering real well. The only difference between the chips and sheets is probably the chipping paint is less flexible than the sheeting paint. Either one can be a sign of poor adhesion.
> 
> SirWired



Yikes, in hindsight it seemed like I may have been peeling off a super thin layer of wood too. Ill take pictures of the paint chips that I didn't eat and post em up later. 

I am concerned I am being too aggressive now! 

Evan


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

Basically if you see a bit of a gap between the wood and old paint, no matter how small then keep scraping. You don't want to damage the wood if you can help it. I usually use a large titanium blade scraper to bust loose the majority of the loose paint and then go back with a 5-in-one and get the finer stuff. I don't think your putty knife is the best tool to use. 

If you are scraping up the wood or made a lot of splinters, go back with some 60 or 80 grit sand paper and smooth it out. You can even use a palm sander if you want. Once you are done, you are really going to want to use a good oil based primer. I like the Zinsser All Prime (Also labeled Stain Block) as it dries really quick and can even be sanded if necessary. Contrary to some beliefs you really only need to "spot prime" meaning only the bare wood where you scraped. I have worked for a few people who insist on a full coat of oil primer, but that is really only necessary if you are changing the color much or if the paint is really chalky. Paint will almost always stick to older paint so priming everything just for the heck of it is overkill. You power washed so you should be in really good shape. I like to put a medium to thin coat on at first in one area and then go back over it again once the primer has soaked into the bare wood a bit and it gives me a really good coat of primer. Too thin a coat and the paint won't really have too much to grab on to other than the wood. Also prime any stained areas or any other suspect areas. Now topcoat with a good quality paint and you should have a job that will last for years.


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## 240sx4u (Sep 22, 2008)

Thanks for the reassurance, I didn't work on it tonight at all after work since its clear I didn't know what I was doing. 

I will be more gentile, I have been going at this way too hard. I plan on feathering edges and sanding bare wood with a palm sander. 

I will be visiting Sherwin Williams tomorrow.

Thanks - Evan


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