# Adding A Separating Wall in a Room



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Do you plan on having a door on either plane? Will the smoke detector be in the hallway or the kids room?

Basically it is straight forward. Remove the base on both walls where the wall will intersect. I would not nail down the bottom plate. Use a silicone or FuzeIt to adhere it down. Build a corner using 3 ea 2x4's and scraps, then cut a top plate to match the bottom plate in measurements. Place studs inset 1/2" on the right wall so you will have a place to land sheetrock, spaced 16" on center. The other wall stud will land where it needs to with no regard to the sheetrock. Measure carefully as I think the light switch and receptacle on the right wall will fall in the room, not sure.

You may have to adhere the left stud to the wall unless you are lucky enough for it to hit a stud. Install your sheetrock, finish it, and install matching base on both sides.

Edit: Is that carpet? It looked to be tile. Sorry, you'll need to nail down your bottom plate over the carpet. This is to preclude having to cut it should you or the next owner decide that wall was not needed.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

chandler48 said:


> Do you plan on having a door on either plane? Will the smoke detector be in the hallway or the kids room?
> 
> Basically it is straight forward. Remove the base on both walls where the wall will intersect. I would not nail down the bottom plate. Use a silicone or FuzeIt to adhere it down. Build a corner using 3 ea 2x4's and scraps, then cut a top plate to match the bottom plate in measurements. Place studs inset 1/2" on the right wall so you will have a place to land sheetrock, spaced 16" on center. The other wall stud will land where it needs to with no regard to the sheetrock. Measure carefully as I think the light switch and receptacle on the right wall will fall in the room, not sure.
> 
> ...


Here is an updated image with the door. Here also are question answers in case the responses change:

- The smoke detector will be outside the room, likely with another wireless one installed inside.
- The door will be perpendicular to the bathroom door (shown on the left of the pic, open with the light off)
- The light switches are intended to fall inside the room
- It is carpet, yes. 

I'm not following the nailing the bottom plate over the carpeting. This is on a bottom floor, so I think that room is laid on a slab and not a subfloor, if that's what you mean.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Is the light switch for this room? 

You could do an angle wall too.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Is the light switch for this room?
> 
> You could do an angle wall too.


Yes the light switch is for the room the picture taker was standing. For an angled wall, I assume the process would be the same minus cutting the angle of the 2x4 to fit flush on both sides?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Yes the light switch is for the room the picture taker was standing. For an angled wall, I assume the process would be the same minus cutting the angle of the 2x4 to fit flush on both sides?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


You wouldn't have to move the switch and SD would be in the room


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> You wouldn't have to move the switch and SD would be in the room


Is the entire process the same, other than angle cutting the top and bottom 2x4s?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Is the entire process the same, other than angle cutting the top and bottom 2x4s?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Pretty much. but the angle could create problems moving furniture in and out of both room. Is the hall a standard 36" wide?


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Pretty much. but the angle could create problems moving furniture in and out of both room. Is the hall a standard 36" wide?


Let me check. How would I adhere the bottom 2x4 to the ground? And I guess the upper one to the ceiling?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Let me check. How would I adhere the bottom 2x4 to the ground? And I guess the upper one to the ceiling?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Is there attic or floor above ?
the floor you pin it with nails or use tap con screws. 

Those are the miner details. :biggrin2:
A straight 30" door at the end of the hall is tricky when you want a light switch too.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Is there attic or floor above ?
> the floor you pin it with nails or use tap con screws.
> 
> Those are the miner details. :biggrin2:
> A straight 30" door at the end of the hall is tricky when you want a light switch too.


The opening is 39" and there should be attic above. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> The opening is 39" and there should be attic above.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk



That works for the squared out walls, 30" door and light switch. 

In the attic you dig around and put blocks between the joists you can screw to from below.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> That works for the squared out walls, 30" door and light switch.
> 
> In the attic you dig around and put blocks between the joists you can screw to from below.


That makes sense. Attach 2x4s between joists as needed to screw the top frame to. I'm still not visualizing the bottom though...

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> That makes sense. Attach 2x4s between joists as needed to screw the top frame to. I'm still not visualizing the bottom though...
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 You drill holes thru the plate and into the concrete, you can use tap con screws or just put in a piece of nylon trimmer string and hammer in a 3" nail. 



Are thinking to go with the squared out with the door on the end?


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> You drill holes thru the plate and into the concrete, you can use tap con screws or just put in a piece of nylon trimmer string and hammer in a 3" nail.
> 
> 
> 
> Are thinking to go with the squared out with the door on the end?


I'm not sure if either is easier than the other. I'm pretty open to either option if one is easier. Squared off or an angle, both end up with the switch on the inside of the room. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> I'm not sure if either is easier than the other. I'm pretty open to either option if one is easier. Squared off or an angle, both end up with the switch on the inside of the room.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 You would want to move the switch either way and may have to move both boxes a few inched to the right anyway.
The hard part of the squared out is the hall wall needs some real effort so the new section doesn't show. In that way the angle is easier.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> You would want to move the switch either way and may have to move both boxes a few inched to the right anyway.
> The hard part of the squared out is the hall wall needs some real effort so the new section doesn't show. In that way the angle is easier.


I understand what you're saying, however I don't understand how it would need effort for the new section not to show. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> I understand what you're saying, however I don't understand how it would need effort for the new section not to show.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


You have a corner bead and extra filler on the corners that all has to go and then new lumber can shrink a little over time and you would want a smooth transition from old to new.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> You have a corner bead and extra filler on the corners that all has to go and then new lumber can shrink a little over time and you would want a smooth transition from old to new.


Got it. Okay I will plan this out a little further and report back.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Got it. Okay I will plan this out a little further and report back.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk



Bonus points if you can find a stud in the other wall to nail the end of the wall to over there. If not there are tricks.


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

My opinion.

That makes no sense and will look awkward. 

Where is the thermostat located.?


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Here's another thought: Just wall straight across the hall and put in a door. Move the bathroom door to the other wall (the wall behind it, where it's currently open) to opposite the existing door in the hallway. Optionally delete the existing bathroom door, or leave it in so there's access from this room.

This way you don't need to fool with wood/carpet transitions.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

huesmann said:


> Here's another thought: Just wall straight across the hall and put in a door. Move the bathroom door to the other wall (the wall behind it, where it's currently open) to opposite the existing door in the hallway. Optionally delete the existing bathroom door, or leave it in so there's access from this room.
> 
> This way you don't need to fool with wood/carpet transitions.


That's definitely a creative option but the bathroom sink is on the wall where the new door would go, and I feel like that'd be a whole new project that I'm trying to avoid. I guess it's easier to just drill through the carpet and into the concrete. That makes sense to me. However. I'd still need to leave a door opening in the bottom frame that I install.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> That's definitely a creative option but the bathroom sink is on the wall where the new door would go, and I feel like that'd be a whole new project that I'm trying to avoid. I guess it's easier to just drill through the carpet and into the concrete. That makes sense to me. However. I'd still need to leave a door opening in the bottom frame that I install.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


You don't build on top of carpet, you move it and re fit it.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> You don't build on top of carpet, you move it and re fit it.


That's what I thought but a previous reply on here led me to believe I just drilled down the frame into the carpet and the slab. I'm sure I just read it wrong. 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I mentioned the carpet thingy. You can set your bottom plate on carpet, although that is not the go-to way to do it. But, this project may become an albatross and will need removing, so you don't want a 5" gap in carpet where your wall went.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

chandler48 said:


> I mentioned the carpet thingy. You can set your bottom plate on carpet, although that is not the go-to way to do it. But, this project may become an albatross and will need removing, so you don't want a 5" gap in carpet where your wall went.


So technically, can be done... not ideal, but easier to remove later.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

jgruberman said:


> That's definitely a creative option but the bathroom sink is on the wall where the new door would go


I don't understand. Does the existing door smack up against the sink when you open it?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> That's definitely a creative option but the bathroom sink is on the wall where the new door would go, and I feel like that'd be a whole new project that I'm trying to avoid. I guess it's easier to just drill through the carpet and into the concrete. That makes sense to me. However. I'd still need to leave a door opening in the bottom frame that I install.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 I agree with @huesmann the bathroom door should be looked at, that might be the best option. 

The door would use the same space it uses now?


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

huesmann said:


> I don't understand. Does the existing door smack up against the sink when you open it?


Yes, it is right next to the sink









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Yes, it is right next to the sink
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is pretty standard, that door would work for the new doorway and the new door you would have open the other way


----------



## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Yes, Neal's sketch shows exactly what I was thinking.

I guess in this situation it wouldn't be practical to keep the existing door, unless you replaced with a pocket door or barn door, which may be more than you want to get into. But a simple door relocation would be pretty easy. If you're clever, you may even be able to reuse the existing door (it'd need to swing the opposite direction).


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Do you heat and cool these areas separately.?

I didn't see a reply about where your thermostat is located.?


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Here is where I stopped the other day(ran out of lumber).

My plan is to stand the pre-hung door in the frame and install a joist on each side of it with about an inch of free space for shimming. Then once I get the rest of the joists installed, I'm planning on cutting out the frame on the bottom for the door to sit in and attach it.

*QUESTION* How much space should I shim the door UPWARDS off the floor? I assume I need to leave a gap for flooring and transition and for the door to swing onto the carpeting into the room?

*ANY OTHER COMMENTS* or suggestions about my process up to this point or plan going forward? I'm always open to tips from the pros.









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Here is where I stopped the other day(ran out of lumber).
> 
> My plan is to stand the pre-hung door in the frame and install a joist on each side of it with about an inch of free space for shimming. Then once I get the rest of the joists installed, I'm planning on cutting out the frame on the bottom for the door to sit in and attach it.
> 
> ...


If you buy a 30" pre hung door you measure 32" over and install your studs. The prehung door has the height pre set with the length of the jams


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> If you buy a 30" pre hung door you measure 32" over and install your studs. The prehung door has the height pre set with the length of the jams


Okay, I may have figured that when I looked at the door. We already have it, just haven't stood it up yet after unloading it the other day. I assume I need to leave some gap on each side of the door for possible leveling?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Okay, I may have figured that when I looked at the door. We already have it, just haven't stood it up yet after unloading it the other day. I assume I need to leave some gap on each side of the door for possible leveling?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 The pre hung door will be about 31 1/2" wide. 

Unless the studs that you nailed against the wall are really out of plumb you just measure over 32 " at the top and the bottom. 

With your level check the 2x4s on the right where the jam will go and see if it is plumb.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> The pre hung door will be about 31 1/2" wide.
> 
> Unless the studs that you nailed against the wall are really out of plumb you just measure over 32 " at the top and the bottom.
> 
> With your level check the 2x4s on the right where the jam will go and see if it is plumb.


So then I don't need to leave gap for any possible leveling? I can't be positive the studs are plumb without being there, so speaking hypothetically... If there is a chance they aren't exactly plumb, would it be wise to leave a slight gap?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> So then I don't need to leave gap for any possible leveling? I can't be positive the studs are plumb without being there, so speaking hypothetically... If there is a chance they aren't exactly plumb, would it be wise to leave a slight gap?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 I guess.
How do you build it with a bigger gap if you are not there? :sad:


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> I guess.
> How do you build it with a bigger gap if you are not there? :sad:


Well I'm asking because I won't have information readily available at my fingertips so I'm asking ahead of time to be prepared. I meant that WHEN I go next door and check to ensure the stud is plumb, and potentially determine that it's NOT, then do I leave a gap between the door frame and frame studs? If the studs are plumb, then it's a moot topic... Just trying to be prepared ahead of time 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Well I'm asking because I won't have information readily available at my fingertips so I'm asking ahead of time to be prepared. I meant that WHEN I go next door and check to ensure the stud is plumb, and potentially determine that it's NOT, then do I leave a gap between the door frame and frame studs? If the studs are plumb, then it's a moot topic... Just trying to be prepared ahead of time
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


I think you had 2 studs on the one side already. if those are plumb for the first 83 inches you are good, If they are way out then I would adjust the width.:wink2:


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> I think you had 2 studs on the one side already. if those are plumb for the first 83 inches you are good, If they are way out then I would adjust the width.:wink2:


The "door studs" I'm referring to are the ones the door attaches to, neither of which are installed yet. I'm confused about your responses to the doorframe gap question. I don't think I'm at your level of expertise and fully understanding the answer.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> The "door studs" I'm referring to are the ones the door attaches to, neither of which are installed yet. I'm confused about your responses to the doorframe gap question. I don't think I'm at your level of expertise and fully understanding the answer.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk



A pre hung door comes with a jam you screw or nail the jam to the studs.
If the studs on the hinge side are plumb you don't need any shim. 

The studs I am talking about are the two on the right in this pictures.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> A pre hung door comes with a jam you screw or nail the jam to the studs.
> If the studs on the hinge side are plumb you don't need any shim.
> 
> The studs I am talking about are the two on the right in this pictures.
> ...


I got it. You were under the impression that I was planning on attaching the door to the right two studs shown. I didn't have that plan but it seems to make the most sense. I had installing two new studs and putting the door between those and centering the door on the wall. 

However, since it swings open to a wall, I guess it is more logical to put the door close to that wall and just shim the right side as needed.

Is that better aligned with what you were meaning?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> I got it. You were under the impression that I was planning on attaching the door to the right two studs shown. I didn't have that plan but it seems to make the most sense. I had installing two new studs and putting the door between those and centering the door on the wall.
> 
> However, since it swings open to a wall, I guess it is more logical to put the door close to that wall and just shim the right side as needed.
> 
> ...


We always put the door tight to the hinge side. On the other side you will be looking for room for a light switch.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> We always put the door tight to the hinge side. On the other side you will be looking for room for a light switch.


That makes sense. I think we are talking the same language now. Given your statement, should I only have 1 stud on that right side or is 2 ok?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> That makes sense. I think we are talking the same language now. Given your statement, should I only have 1 stud on that right side or is 2 ok?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 2 is the usual, that gives you enough for the trim around the door.
You have gained 1/2" because of the drywall behind the studs.
Hopefully you have 35" or more from those studs to the hall side of the corner.
At 35" you still have a problem with the light switch inside.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

So I've gotten everything completed with the framing... But should I choose to move the light switch from the location pictured below to the location drawn, how would I go about doing that?









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> So I've gotten everything completed with the framing... But should I choose to move the light switch from the location pictured below to the location drawn, how would I go about doing that?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 Before we get into that, lets get the framing right. 

You install the door and jam after the drywall is done. 

2 studs on both sides
3 cripples and a sill above .
depending on the space between the double studs and the corner stud you may have to make room for the switch box.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Pull the switch and see if there is more than one cable and do they go out the top or the bottom of the box?


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Before we get into that, lets get the framing right.
> 
> You install the door and jam after the drywall is done.
> 
> ...


I'll do this first and follow up after complete and after I check the wiring

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Here is the outlet box inside. Figured I'd send a pic of this while fixing the studwork.









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Here is the outlet box inside. Figured I'd send a pic of this while fixing the studwork.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Poke around it and find which side of the box has a stud, :wink2:


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Poke around it and find which side of the box has a stud, :wink2:


A quick tap on the wall yields the stud on the left side of the switch. The right side is clearly hollow.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Also, Studwork update.









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Also, Studwork update.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk



That looks a whole lot better. 

I do see a problem, The 2x4 next to the old light switch. You should have removed the corner bead from the drywall first. leaving it there will cause a great lump in the wall, hard to hide.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Cut hole hole here big enough to put you hand in there and see if there any other cables attached to that stud, Save the piece you take out.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> That looks a whole lot better.
> 
> I do see a problem, The 2x4 next to the old light switch. You should have removed the corner bead from the drywall first. leaving it there will cause a great lump in the wall, hard to hide.


I don't have any drywall done yet, I don't understand the statement 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Cut hole hole here big enough to put you hand in there and see if there any other cables attached to that stud, Save the piece you take out.


From the bottom upwards?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> From the bottom upwards?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


You are going to drill thru that stud and push the wire up into the box, you want to be sure there is nothing there to damage.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> You are going to drill thru that stud and push the wire up into the box, you want to be sure there is nothing there to damage.


So I'm drilling through the hollow side of the existing outlet below it to see if any other wires are running upwards on the stud?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> I don't have any drywall done yet, I don't understand the statement
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 Here he is filling the corner bead and you can see that the corner actuall stick out from the wall a little. 

So your old wall corner has that bead with all that extra fill. When you do you drywall you will also want to tape the joint . It doesn't take much to end up with a 1/4" lump on that line. 

So the normal is to remove the bead and chip back some of the filler to make the filling job easier and flatter.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> So I'm drilling through the hollow side of the existing outlet below it to see if any other wires are running upwards on the stud?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 No you are cutting a hole where I marked it, big enough you can get your hand in the wall. 

You're not drilling yet.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> So I'm drilling through the hollow side of the existing outlet below it to see if any other wires are running upwards on the stud?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk



I am trying to figure out what the studs look like inside that corner. 

Can you poke where I have marked #1 

If there is a stud in there poke a hole where I marked #2


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Disregard, I was reading your pic at an incorrect orientation. I'll drill holes to see what I can figure out


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> I am trying to figure out what the studs look like inside that corner.
> 
> Can you poke where I have marked #1
> 
> If there is a stud in there poke a hole where I marked #2


What do you recommend as the safest way to poke those two holes to see about the studs? I'll have to drill at least once through the left side of the switch box I believe.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> What do you recommend as the safest way to poke those two holes to see about the studs? I'll have to drill at least once through the left side of the switch box I believe.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


Just a nail or screw driver Just need to know where the studs are.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Just a nail or screw driver Just need to know where the studs are.


Got it. But I still need to drill to be able to poke that nail or screwdriver through,right? Want to make sure I'm following your instructions correctly

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Got it. But I still need to drill to be able to poke that nail or screwdriver through,right? Want to make sure I'm following your instructions correctly
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 It is drywall just tap a screw driver in on the angle where I show as #1


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> It is drywall just tap a screw driver in on the angle where I show as #1


Ahh okay! I didn't understand the #1 and #2 lines as screw insertion angles! One moment 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> It is drywall just tap a screw driver in on the angle where I show as #1


Both holes have studs behind them. Pics provided from angle of entry.









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

And to make sure, I tested a few spots further out









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Both holes have studs behind them. Pics provided from angle of entry.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Move over a little here to the left. there should be a space open in there.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Move over a little here to the left. there should be a space open in there.


Unfortunately not, all stud. See post #72 before your reply. I think we were typing at the same time 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Unfortunately not, all stud. See post #72 before your reply. I think we were typing at the same time
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 Great, that makes it trickier. 

Have you cut this hole yet.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

I have not. I wasn't doing any cutting before I knew what I was doing.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> I have not. I wasn't doing any cutting before I knew what I was doing.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


cut it just like I drew it about 4" square.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> cut it just like I drew it about 4" square.


Sure thing. After I do, what am I looking for?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Sure thing. After I do, what am I looking for?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 You are looking to make sure there is no wire or anything where we will be drilling into there.
I am doing up a shopping list. :wink2:


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Here we go









Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Here we go
> 
> 
> 
> ...


See if you can remove the staple with out damaging the cable.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> See if you can remove the staple with out damaging the cable.


I can, yes. I'm not over there right now, it's my neighbors house that I'm doing for him but the staple is removable.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> I can, yes. I'm not over there right now, it's my neighbors house that I'm doing for him but the staple is removable.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 They didn't make it easy. 

Hopefully you can move the wire to one side so you can be sure not to hit it with the drill.
Usually you do the finish work after you are done with painting and everything. 

for the rough in you will need 

A 1" drill bit that will reach from the hall wall right to the hole you cut under the box
6 feet of 14/2 cable
Black electrical tape. 

utility knife 

and maybe needle nose pliers 



Finish work
new switch, 

3 yellow wire nuts
3 or 4 staples
a blank cover.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Your first job is to drill from the hall to the hole you cut and you want to be in the center of the wall 

Then you have to drill thru your new studs and hit the first hole dead on,


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> Your first job is to drill from the hall to the hole you cut and you want to be in the center of the wall
> 
> Then you have to drill thru your new studs and hit the first hole dead on,


And then when I drill that I'm guessing I label the three wires, cap them to some new wire, then loop it through the studs to the new receptacle location?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Also, what is the blank cover for?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

jgruberman said:


> Also, what is the blank cover for?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


 The blank is for the old switch box when you are all done. It will be a junction box and you are not allowed to hide it. 

Did I forget to order a new box for the new location. :devil3:
You will need that before drywall.


----------



## jgruberman (Sep 12, 2016)

Nealtw said:


> The blank is for the old switch box when you are all done. It will be a junction box and you are not allowed to hide it.
> 
> Did I forget to order a new box for the new location. :devil3:
> You will need that before drywall.


Got it. You forgot to mention it but I already did that anyway 

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would strip back some of the outer jacket and just work with the copper wire to pull it thru 

get in thru the hall first and then tie another wire to it and pull it over toward the old switch.


----------

