# What's strongest: hot mud, plaster, joint compound or spackle?



## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

Just wondering but...I am assuming this is for window? (you mentioned curtains) Is there no trim boards in the windows or not possible to install any?


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

Hick said:


> Just wondering but...I am assuming this is for window? (you mentioned curtains) Is there no trim boards in the windows or not possible to install any?


I actually have two areas where I'm redoing the curtain rod brackets: one is a 5' wide series of windows, and the other is a sliding patio door. We have trim around the windows and the door, is that what you mean?


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## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

Sorta. I was figuring you were putting curtains inside the windows sill with like a tension rod. Though now I am thinking you are mounting them on the wall above the window/door with mounting brackets. Misunderstood (votes for pics)

I really could not speak to the best compound to put. Likely, none would work well for your purposes.

Have you considered getting a decorative wood backing. Screw it directly into the studs then put the mounting brackets onto that?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just Screwing into sheetrock is never going to work, needs to be screwed through the sheetrock into the wood behind the sheetrock.
Post a picture of where your trying to install the brackets.
Some place above the windows there's a header that's a minimum of 2 X 6 wide.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If you need to re-mount in the same spot you need to cut out a section and replace with a new piece of drywall. To just fill the hole then try to drill in the patching material will not hold.

If the holes are not ripped out too big you might be able to use toggle bolts and maybe the brackets will hide them.


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## cjaustin81 (Sep 4, 2014)

If you have studs in that area you could use a stud finder and anchor to those. I had a similar situation w a towel bar that ripped out leaving two holes. 

I'm going to repair the holes w drywall and use a furring strip as a backer for support.

How many anchors are we talking for one window unit?


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

cjaustin81 said:


> How many anchors are we talking for one window unit?


Sorry, I'm not able to post photos but basically the sliding door has two curtain rod brackets above it, one on each side, each with two holes in it. 

The row of windows actually is more like 6-7 feet wide, not the 5 that I originally estimated. That has three curtain rod holders, including one in the middle.

All are mounted a couple inches above the door/window top trim, in the drywall.


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

joecaption said:


> Just Screwing into sheetrock is never going to work, needs to be screwed through the sheetrock into the wood behind the sheetrock.
> Post a picture of where your trying to install the brackets.
> Some place above the windows there's a header that's a minimum of 2 X 6 wide.


Yeah, the header is about 4 inches behind the sheetrock, so I don't think it would be stable enough to run super long screws all the way back into it, would it?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

How do you figure it's 4" behind the drywall, when drywall is only 1/2 thick and is in direct contact with the header?
You do know what a header is, right?
Still confused how a doors framed, Google "door framing details".
A slider is framed almost the same as a regular door, often times the header is even wider then a regular passage door.
There's also going to be king studs from floor to ceiling about 1-1/2" out from the door jambs.


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## Studly (Feb 27, 2009)

joecaption said:


> How do you figure it's 4" behind the drywall, when drywall is only 1/2 thick and is in direct contact with the header?
> You do know what a header is, right?
> Still confused how a doors framed, Google "door framing details".
> A slider is framed almost the same as a regular door, often times the header is even wider then a regular passage door.
> There's also going to be king studs from floor to ceiling about 1-1/2" out from the door jambs.


Yup I basically know what headers are, but do they always go flush against the drywall? I assumed the headers on these were on the exterior side of the wall. Above both the windows and the sliding door, going just a couple inches above the trim, I can look through the holes and see insulation, and when I poke around in there with a screwdriver, I don't hit anything solid until about 4 inches deep.

I have a crappy stud finder that isn't accurate, but I just went and checked the wall with magnets to find the screws in the studs. I did find the studs on either side of the door, so that is good. I'll anchor the side curtain rod holders to there.

For the long span of windows, I need to put a rod holder right in the middle, so the curtains open and close to the right spot. I'll probably have to replace the drywall in that spot and put a small backer board behind the drywall patch. 

Thanks everyone for the tips!


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## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

Studly said:


> Yup I basically know what headers are, but do they always go flush against the drywall? I assumed the headers on these were on the exterior side of the wall. Above both the windows and the sliding door, going just a couple inches above the trim, I can look through the holes and see insulation, and when I poke around in there with a screwdriver, I don't hit anything solid until about 4 inches deep.
> 
> I have a crappy stud finder that isn't accurate, but I just went and checked the wall with magnets to find the screws in the studs. I did find the studs on either side of the door, so that is good. I'll anchor the side curtain rod holders to there.
> 
> ...


All headers I have ever seen have been against the interior wall & normally it is a double with one at interior & one exterior.

That aside, even if whoever did the construction decided to skip that. There has to be a frame otherwise I do not see how your door would remain attached to the house. At the very bare minimum there should be a 2X4 strip of wood all the way around your door & likely it is a double strip.

I am glad you found screws in the wood though. I would hate to think your house is held together with something like magical unicorn farts. That would suck


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Many old houses have an "L" header with the 3-1/2" vertical on the outside for the trim to fasten to. Cut a 3" square hole, add 2 1x2 at a time with a screw in the middle (to control/center) to stack them on edge behind the drywall resting on the lower header board for hardware fasteners. With a few inches extra on each side of your opening to spread the load against good existing drywall. Patch/match texture of drywall and hang the heavy curtains.

Gary


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