# Rough Door and Window Openings



## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

windows 1" wider than window and 1/2" Higher. Be sure the jack studs holding the new header is perfectly level. Be sure the sill is perfectly level. Be sure openings are square.

For doors add 1 1/2" in width and 1" in height.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Bob, 
In the north here, window rough openings are made about 1 inch wider and taller than the actual window frame to allow for sufficient foam/insulation to be installed. On install, set the window margins tpo b e balanced. Often a 3/8 shim set is cut for the bottom to ensure a space for enough insulation.
Doors are 2 inches wider and 2 inches taller than the door slab size for interior doors. Exteriors are 'usually' the same, depending on the manufacturer. Some thresholds need a taller opening.
When in doubt, make them bigger. It is easier to fill in rather than increase a rough opening.


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## tuchodi (Oct 24, 2009)

Thanks for the info. I am in a colder climate so I will make sure I have enough space for insulation. I am looking at some Vinyl widows and they recommend very little space. If I go with Vinyl should I still use the 1" space for widows that you speak of so I can insulate?


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

yes installation is the same. The window should sit on the bottom sill. I install a tapered sill then a sill pan then flashing or waterproof membrane that contains a weeping ability. Windows should not have foam or caulk on the bottom. This way any water that does work it's way into the window area will weep out safely and not sit in the wall rotting out the framing. I also disagree with bigger is better. Making it the correct size, level and square is better. Make it too big and the holes for your nailing flange will have no wood to grab onto.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Check with the manufacturer or the supplier. Wood windows are special sizes and stock odd measurements, vinyl are net the size of the window call-out and 1/2" smaller than call-out. Box stores sell glass doors to fit older openings, under the call-out size to fit. Remember to allow 1/2" space for shim at exterior doors with hardwood floor inside (so the sweep will clear a throw rug or tile). May not pertain but good points. 
"When in doubt, make them bigger. It is *easier to fill in* rather than increase a rough opening." ----- good point if unsure.

be safe, Gary


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

Bob Mariani said:


> For doors add 1 1/2" in width and 1" in height.


These dimensions will make trim guys curse you for sure.
This gives you zero space on width...30"slab plus two 3/4"jambs=31 
1/2" ; the 1 1/2" is gone, leaving no wiggle room for framing deviations.
Height..80" slab, typically set 1" above bottom of jamb from mill shop,plus 3/4" head jamb, plus 3/8" extension above head jamb rabbit, won't fit 1" over slab size opening.

I go 2 1/2" on width and height. Additional 3/4" if there is full thickness hardwood floor. I'd much rather shim jambs than cut out trimmer studs and rip to gain space.


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## tuchodi (Oct 24, 2009)

troubleseeker said:


> These dimensions will make trim guys curse you for sure.


Good point about the trim I had not thought of that. 
Thanks


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## Cache (Sep 18, 2007)

Sort of an industry standard...

Exterior Doors = = 2" on width & 2 5/8" extra on height from callout
Interior Doors ---- 2" extra width, 2 5/8" extra height
Sliding Doors ----- Actual callout on width, 5/8" extra height
Pocket and bypass -- Actual width, 2 5/8" extra height

Vinyl windows ---- 1" extra width, 1/2" extra height

These dimensions give you the ability to make adjustments for out of square/level/plumb framing. The door openings allow for adjustment for any type of flooring.


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## tuchodi (Oct 24, 2009)

Cache said:


> Sort of an industry standard...
> 
> Exterior Doors = = 2" on width & 2 5/8" extra on height from callout
> Interior Doors ---- 2" extra width, 2 5/8" extra height
> ...



Thanks for the dimensions. I will write that in my trusty know it all book.


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

Cache said:


> Sort of an industry standard...
> 
> Pocket and bypass -- Actual width, 2 5/8" extra height


Pocket door RO is actually TWICE the door width(passage plus pocket), plus 3/4"(for finish jamb),although I usually give myself an inch and shim to suit.

I have not installed any bypass in years, so don't know about the 2 5/8" for them, but modern pocket door hardware calls for 4" additional height for the track and trolly assembly.

_For a DIY pocket door, I strongly suggest purchasing the hardware kit before framing (Johnson is good kit and readily available), and understanding the directions. This a lot easier than having to modify framing later._


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## Cache (Sep 18, 2007)

troubleseeker said:


> Pocket door RO is actually TWICE the door width(passage plus pocket), plus 3/4"(for finish jamb),although I usually give myself an inch and shim to suit.
> 
> I have not installed any bypass in years, so don't know about the 2 5/8" for them, but modern pocket door hardware calls for 4" additional height for the track and trolly assembly.
> 
> _For a DIY pocket door, I strongly suggest purchasing the hardware kit before framing (Johnson is good kit and readily available), and understanding the directions. This a lot easier than having to modify framing later._


I was referring to the prehung pocket doors, not buying a install kit and DIY. IOW, when I say actual width, that includes the frame portion of the door. If building my own doors the rules are a bit different for me.


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

GBR has the right answer. The RO you want is what the specific manufacturer says. All those rules of thumb will eventually get you in a jamb (pun intended).


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