# Best Mitersaw for a homeowner



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

l have a hatachi 7" compound that pulls to 12" would buy it over and over ,no problems, keeps on gettin up, have had it for many years


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## ArmchairDIY (Oct 21, 2009)

Hitachi makes a nice saw so does Makita.
Buy the best one you can afford and invest in a high quality blade, you will not regret it.


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

ArmchairDIY said:


> Hitachi makes a nice saw so does Makita.
> Buy the best one you can afford and invest in a high quality blade, you will not regret it.


I shortlisted following saw's based on the price and the popular manufacturers. 

Following 2 are from Hitachi in the price range I am comfortable with:
1)
A) Hitachi C10FCE2 10-Inch Compound Miter Saw ($124)

B) Hitachi C10FCH2 10-Inch Miter Saw with Laser ($149)

Both are 15 AMp, 10" Blade, 5000 RPM - Question - How does the Laser feature make a difference ? Can some one please comment on this one ?
2)
Next, the cheapest one on Makita is - 
Makita LS1040 10-Inch Compound Miter saw ($191)
15 AMP, 10" Blade - Is this better than Hitachi ?

3) DEWALT DW713 Heavy-Duty 10 - This is $207.. 

Any comments on these items ?


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

Used to be the Hitachi was the favorite of the trim guys, 10-15 years ago or more. Those models were imported from Japan and were very accurate. Eventually, the cost to mfg in Japan and import got too high and the saw was 'value engineered' until it was similar to the Makita and others. 
We have been buying Makita for a few years but don't use them for real accurate work, for that we set up a jig on the table saw or use the sliding table saw. 

I think most any of the 10" saws in your price range will be similar and provide accurate enough cuts if you set them up right and don't push them, let the blade eat. 
What ArmchairDIY said about a quality blade is important-a good blade like a Forrest will make any saw work better. 

Lots of guys now think the Festool is the gold standard. Maybe, if you got the gold to pay for one : )


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

BTW, here is a site that might have some information as well...

http://www.tool-rank.com/


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

7echo said:


> Used to be the Hitachi was the favorite of the trim guys, 10-15 years ago or more. Those models were imported from Japan and were very accurate. Eventually, the cost to mfg in Japan and import got too high and the saw was 'value engineered' until it was similar to the Makita and others.
> We have been buying Makita for a few years but don't use them for real accurate work, for that we set up a jig on the table saw or use the sliding table saw.
> 
> I think most any of the 10" saws in your price range will be similar and provide accurate enough cuts if you set them up right and don't push them, let the blade eat.
> ...


Thank you for your comments. One more thing, I don't really have a workbench, either I have to keep it on the floor or on the wood table.. Would that affect the performance when I am cutting the wood ?


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## hankscorpio (Feb 10, 2009)

If you are going to try and stay on the lower side of the price range I'm not sure how much the brand name matters. Get a 10 inch (sliding is nice if you can afford it but that changes the game a little) look for something with a solid base and nice wing expanders. I wouldn't stress over whether or not it has a laser, if it does and you use then you're just going to stress over if its accurate or not. 

Personally I would go with a cheaper model like a craftsman or a Ryobi and get a nice blade if you plan on doing finer work. I have a craftsman that works like a charm for me and a few other people i know have them also and love them. Another Buddy of mine has a ryobi that he has no complaints about. I just dont see the point in spending a ton of money on a dewalt or something if you are only going to do a few projects with it.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

i've had my DeWalt 12" compound mitre saw for many, many years and have never had a complaint.
one minor repair in all these years is pretty good! (the switch died, ordered $20 replacement from toolbarn.com or something similar)

DM


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

I have a Delta 10" compound mitre saw that I've been using for about 10 years. The base is 3.5" thick, so if you have a flat floor you can use 2/4 scraps to support long boards.

It's a great tool to have. I don't know how accurate it is, but it seems to work well enough for molding. All mine is painted, so the joints just need to be tight enough to caulk.:whistling2:


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## Itsdanf (Jan 29, 2009)

I've had a 10" Delta for 10 yrs, and it's worked well for most projects. However, I've had challenges when trying to cut larger crown molding, since a 10" blade can't handle the bigger pieces. Also, the fence isn't tall enough for many pieces (I put my crown molding upside down, leaning on the fence; too difficult to figure out angles for compound miter cuts). If I had it to do over again, I'd go for a larger blade, or a slider. Just saying...:whistling2: 

One option for a table: I mounted my miter saw on a piece of 3/4" plywood (approx 1.5' x 2'), with a 2x4 attached below (centered, parallel to the fence). I then clamp it to a Workmate when I use the saw -- makes a great portable table you can bring to the work area. Photos attached (one showing underside of mount, the other with the saw on the Workmate).

Another option: Using the same plywood/2x4 mount, I placed the saw on top of an old kitchen cabinet section, which already has a hole in the top. I put caster wheels under the cabinet, and voila! A rolling work station! Works great in the shop or garage. Drawers are good for holding gear like safety glasses, coping saw, etc. See attached photo.


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## hankscorpio (Feb 10, 2009)

that is a sweet set up.


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Finally, I brought a Ryobi 15 AMP, 10" blade mitersaw on Friday from home depot. I did some base molding work on Saturday and Sunday. 

So far, the experience with this miter saw is good. 

However, I can only cut 45 degree angle from one side. The saw only moves to the left to make a inside 45 degree angle. If I have to make an outside 45 degree I need turn the molding.. I was expecting the saw to move 45 degree either the angle.. I

One more thing is that when I cut angles, it cuts outside of the laser not right on the laser. 

Any one had any similar experiences with Ryobi ?


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

I've had my Bosch 3915 compound mitre saw since 2001 and have replaced 1 switch. Not bad when you consider the amount of cutting it has done. 

http://www.toolnewz.com/comparison_chart/slidingcompound.html

And heed the advise about buying a good blade.


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## speedster1 (May 13, 2009)

I am kind of in the same boat as you are. I'm getting read to redo the base molding and crown molding in my house. Obviously I'd like to have a hi-tech 12" sliding dual bevel saw but I can't afford $600. I'll probably be content to get a standard 10" saw due to their low cost and more portable size. I've been looking at the two Hitachi's from Lowes $139/$169 along with the two Ryobi's from Home Depot $99/$129. The $129 Ryobi from Home Depot has kind of peaked my interest because it comes with two extenders and a Crown molding clamp. But I think the Hitachi is a better overall machine. I tend to avoid craftsman because it's like playing Russian Roullette with what type of quality you are getting.

cprao - The problem you are having with only a single 45 degree bevel is common with lower end Miter Saws. If you want both you have to buy one that has "dual-bevel". And the prices go way up when you do that.

An easy way to cut crown without using the bevel is to insert the board upside down and in it's natural angled position (Not flat). Picture the miter base as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. Place your board in position so that the back two bases of the molding lay flat against the saw and fence. Set your saw to a standard 45 degree Miter and cut the board while making sure you are holding them firmly. There are several videos on youtube and on google.


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

No matter what saw you buy make sure you replace the blade right away with a high quality one. You can buy a cheap saw and get a quality blade and have a good setup. It seems crazy spending half the price of the saw on a good blade but it really does make a huge difference. 10" blades aren't to expensive but I have a 12" bosch saw that I have a 100 dollar blade on. When I first got the saw the blade on it seemed alright and cut everything but after a couple years and reading about blades I paid for a quality blade and after seeing how easy it cuts and how nice of a cut it leaves I won't ever buy a cheap blade again. My blade on my circular saw cost more than some of the cheaper saws cost. It also adds safety because you don't have to push as hard. Just have to remember how much the blade costs when you are cutting and make smart cuts by not cutting threw staples or nails or anything else that might damage the blade. Also don't use a good blade to cut laminate flooring, it is hard on the blades and will ruin a good blade real quick. I learned that the hard way.


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## cellophane (Sep 29, 2009)

Tool-Hound (on finehomebuilding.com) has some good reviews of sliding compound miters (not sure how up-to-date they are.) I personally like the Makita LS1016L and as soon as I have the money plan on buying one. 

It never hurts to swing by your local hardware or box store and tinker with the saws on the shelf for a few minutes to get a feel for the different makes and models.


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> No matter what saw you buy make sure you replace the blade right away with a high quality one. You can buy a cheap saw and get a quality blade and have a good setup. It seems crazy spending half the price of the saw on a good blade but it really does make a huge difference. 10" blades aren't to expensive but I have a 12" bosch saw that I have a 100 dollar blade on. When I first got the saw the blade on it seemed alright and cut everything but after a couple years and reading about blades I paid for a quality blade and after seeing how easy it cuts and how nice of a cut it leaves I won't ever buy a cheap blade again. My blade on my circular saw cost more than some of the cheaper saws cost. It also adds safety because you don't have to push as hard. Just have to remember how much the blade costs when you are cutting and make smart cuts by not cutting threw staples or nails or anything else that might damage the blade. Also don't use a good blade to cut laminate flooring, it is hard on the blades and will ruin a good blade real quick. I learned that the hard way.


 
Yeah. Along with the saw that only came with 36 teeth saw blade, I purchased a 60 teeth saw blade to cut my molding. I did see a big difference between these two cuts. I though of going to 80 teeth but it seemed expensive. I am good with 60 teeth now.
If we don't use good blades for lamination flooring, what blades should be used ? less teeth or more teeth ? If you less teeth the cut would not be smoother, right ?


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

speedster1 said:


> I am kind of in the same boat as you are. I'm getting read to redo the base molding and crown molding in my house. Obviously I'd like to have a hi-tech 12" sliding dual bevel saw but I can't afford $600. I'll probably be content to get a standard 10" saw due to their low cost and more portable size. I've been looking at the two Hitachi's from Lowes $139/$169 along with the two Ryobi's from Home Depot $99/$129. The $129 Ryobi from Home Depot has kind of peaked my interest because it comes with two extenders and a Crown molding clamp. But I think the Hitachi is a better overall machine. I tend to avoid craftsman because it's like playing Russian Roullette with what type of quality you are getting.
> 
> cprao - The problem you are having with only a single 45 degree bevel is common with lower end Miter Saws. If you want both you have to buy one that has "dual-bevel". And the prices go way up when you do that.
> 
> An easy way to cut crown without using the bevel is to insert the board upside down and in it's natural angled position (Not flat). Picture the miter base as the ceiling and the fence as the wall. Place your board in position so that the back two bases of the molding lay flat against the saw and fence. Set your saw to a standard 45 degree Miter and cut the board while making sure you are holding them firmly. There are several videos on youtube and on google.


Thank you for the advise on miter saw set up though I have not understood exactly, I can see videos from youtube to understand the setup. It would be great, if I can reduce the time spent on cutting by using this setup.


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

I usually just use a cheap 40 tooth. The cuts don't have to "smooth", they get covered up with base anyway. Just buy a cheap blade and plan on throwing it away after 500-1000 sq. ft. of laminate. I usually have my good 96 tooth blade for trim and woodworking and then a couple other cheap blades that I will put on for laminate or other jobs that might be questionable material to cut.

Use one of these for crown molding. Makes the job really easy.
http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1263860722&sr=8-2


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Cprao. Thanks for reporting back on your decision. Your comments help us all.



cprao said:


> One more thing is that when I cut angles, it cuts outside of the laser not right on the laser.


 Very common, The January JLC has a review of the new $600 Makita LS1016L Miter Saw. The reviewer at first had trouble adjusting the laser. After reading the manual he found that it had a very sophisticated laser that could be fine tuned to align with either side of the blade.

Check your manual to see if there are any user adjustments on the Laser. If not I would try to get a service manual or call Ryobi to get the Laser where I wanted it to be. The Pro's usually like the beam not to be in the center of the cut.
.


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

PaliBob said:


> Cprao. Thanks for reporting back on your decision. Your comments help us all.
> 
> Very common, The January JLC has a review of the new $600 Makita LS1016L Miter Saw. The reviewer at first had trouble adjusting the laser. After reading the manual he found that it had a very sophisticated laser that could be fine tuned to align with either side of the blade.
> 
> ...


Even, in fact, I liked the way the currently the laser works. It acts as a guide where my cut would be when I am cutting angles. for a straight or square cut, it is right on the laser.. so it is good.


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> I usually just use a cheap 40 tooth. The cuts don't have to "smooth", they get covered up with base anyway. Just buy a cheap blade and plan on throwing it away after 500-1000 sq. ft. of laminate. I usually have my good 96 tooth blade for trim and woodworking and then a couple other cheap blades that I will put on for laminate or other jobs that might be questionable material to cut.
> 
> Use one of these for crown molding. Makes the job really easy.
> http://www.amazon.com/Bench-Dog-10-...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1263860722&sr=8-2


Great, I will remember this when I get to crowm molding.. currently I am doing Base molding..


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## campos202 (Oct 21, 2008)

cprao said:


> Finally, I brought a Ryobi 15 AMP, 10" blade mitersaw on Friday from home depot. I did some base molding work on Saturday and Sunday.
> 
> So far, the experience with this miter saw is good.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I used that exact saw for about 120 feet of chair rail and over 400 feet worth of faux wainscoting. Do yourself a favor and replace the blade with a decent 60-tooth or better blade and you should be good to go. The laser shows the very edge of the left side of the blade. Once I got used to that I found it to actually to be pretty useful for cutting the 45's for the faux wainscoting boxes.


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## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

campos202 said:


> Yeah, I used that exact saw for about 120 feet of chair rail and over 400 feet worth of faux wainscoting. Do yourself a favor and replace the blade with a decent 60-tooth or better blade and you should be good to go. The laser shows the very edge of the left side of the blade. Once I got used to that I found it to actually to be pretty useful for cutting the 45's for the faux wainscoting boxes.


Yes. I bought a 6-tooth blade along with this saw machine for my base molding.. So far I am good.


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## Itsdanf (Jan 29, 2009)

When I originally got the 10-yr-old-plus saw shown in post #11, I immediately installed a 60-tooth finishing blade. Never changed it since. Despite using it over the years for many varied projects, including hundreds of cuts on laminate flooring and hundreds more on hardwood, it still works like a charm today when cutting detailed trim. 

Good thing. I'd change it out anyway, but the darn thing's frozen in now... :whistling2:


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