# New Larson storm door leaves gap along edge



## TheNCDoc

I just had a new Larson door installed by a "handyman" who tried for a long time to get it installed properly. He followed the instructions and when he left, the door does close and latch. The door has a closer on the bottom and seems to be adjusted correctly. 

The problem, after the door closes and the latch catches, there is a gap along the latch edge that gets wider from the bottom of the door to the top. I can see where the installer put shims under the top side of the metal frame to try to get it out further. At the top of the door there is a half inch gap between the frame and the latch edge of the door even with the shims. Are there other adjustments that I can make to get the door more square against the weather stripping? I am fairly handy with tools so not afraid to try anything. 

More info. I can push the top of the door and make it come flush against the frame as if the door is warped (doubt it). I am assuming that the opening is not square or plumb causing the door to not press firmly against the weather stripping. 

Side question, Can I install a second closer to the top of the door to make it close tighter if all else fails since I have an extra closer?


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## Windows on Wash

The are pretty adjustable for the most part because most entry doors are way out of plumb. 

Post up a picture if you can and you should get some good advice on where to tweak it.


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## scottktmrider

First off if the installer has to read the instructions your in trouble from the start. it don't matter if the opening is plumb cause you will plumb the door.. it sounds like the door isn't plumb put a level on the head and on the hinge side. and with the door not closing all the way on top, the door isn't warped the frame is twisted put your level on the jamb and check it for plumb in and out both sides,
I would bring the guy back and give him another chance. but it sounds like he just threw it in and walked away. 
That's the problem with getting a" handyman" .I've been a carpenter for 25 yrs and when I give a customers a quote they sometimes flip out, but when I walk away from a job its done right


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## kwikfishron

This is one that could turn into two pages of worthless speculation. As Windows mentioned, post a picture.

BTW, welcome to the forums Doc.


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## TheNCDoc

*Here's some pictures to show door*

These are some pictures of the door as it is now. The picture showing the top shows the shims he installed, about an eight of an inch worth. 

Hope this will help with some suggestions.

Doug


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## Gymschu

I'm a PAINTER and I've installed a half dozen or so of those exact type of Larson storm doors and they are ALMOST foolproof to install. I'm really curious as to WHY he used shims. It's as if he has pushed the framing outward with the shims in an attempt to square it all up, but, that has to be wrong because I still see a gap along the rest of the side frame. I'm with scottmrider in that I'd ask him to come back and make it right. The installation has obvious flaws which he can surely see.


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## TheNCDoc

The space is between the door and the storm door frame not the frame and the casing. 

The installer spent about an hour trying to get it to close all the way. I think he gave up.


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## TheNCDoc

In the Larson instructions, I saw that they recommended shims under the latch side frame if the door didn't close all the way. I assume that was what he was trying to do.


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## kwikfishron

Is it not closing all of the way even when the main door is open? Many storms have issues closing properly with the closure due to a pocket of air that's created when the main door is closed.

If that's not the case look at the hinge side to see if it's binding.


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## ron45

Any way to turn those pictures the right way.?


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## kwikfishron

ron45 said:


> Any way to turn those pictures the right way.?


There you go.


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## ron45

Maybe a picture from inside.?


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## TheNCDoc

*Tomorrow*

I'll get some more pictures from inside tomorrow. 



ron45 said:


> Maybe a picture from inside.?


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## TheNCDoc

*Inside Pictures*

Here's some shots from inside. Three of the latch side and three of the hinge side. Would appreciate suggestions to straighten door.


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## ron45

Look and see if the door is hitting the frame, at the top latch side.?

Also, loosen the frame except for the hing side and see if the door shuts.?

Did you add some kind of weather stripping, is that the problem, check to see if it's keeping the door from closing either by binding the hinge side or rubbing the frame.?
Check the bottom of the door is it binding, if your not sure pull up on it a little and see if it makes a good difference.

You may have to take the door off and start again. Storm doors usually have adjustable frames and are simple to install. 

I believe these are the instructions for your door, pretty straight forward and just like any other. let us know.......

http://www.larsondoors.com/images/uploads/202220567RF_wcRH.pdf


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## TheNCDoc

*I'll try again.*

I hope to get to the door tomorrow and I'll take your advice and probably will almost start over. I'm going to loosen all the screws holding the frame in place and see if I can get some shims in the right places to make the frame plumb. 

The problem with the instructions (which I have a copy of) was that it stated if the problem I have exists, to "shim as necessary to get the frame in plumb". It doesn't have instructions on where to put the shims for a gap at the top or bottom. 

The door is hitting the frame at the bottom of the latch side and can be forced in enough for the latch to catch, but still a gap of about half an inch is left at the top. If not latched there is a gap of 3/4 of an inch. 

There is no binding at the bottom and I don't have any weather stripping other than what was on the new storm door. 




ron45 said:


> Look and see if the door is hitting the frame, at the top latch side.?
> 
> Also, loosen the frame except for the hing side and see if the door shuts.?
> 
> Did you add some kind of weather stripping, is that the problem, check to see if it's keeping the door from closing either by binding the hinge side or rubbing the frame.?
> Check the bottom of the door is it binding, if your not sure pull up on it a little and see if it makes a good difference.
> 
> You may have to take the door off and start again. Storm doors usually have adjustable frames and are simple to install.
> 
> I believe these are the instructions for your door, pretty straight forward and just like any other. let us know.......
> 
> http://www.larsondoors.com/images/uploads/202220567RF_wcRH.pdf


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## TheNCDoc

*Advice from Larson*

I called Larson about possible adjustments they may recommend after trying the things advised here. Their solution surprised me: re-frame the door and make it plumb and square then put on storm door. No way!

I finally just took the storm door off and started again, but still had to put long strips as shims on both sides, bottom on hinge side and top on the latch side. Both shims went from 3/8 inch down to zero at the middle of the storm door. Caulked to cover the shim strips and painted to match the door frame. The door was not as forgiving as I had hoped. BTW, the wooden door inside doesn't have the out of square problem. 

Thanks for all having a go at giving some advice. All's well now.

Doug


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