# Pouring concrete in sections



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

> So we are building house and my husband wants the concrete slab professionally poured all in one sitting. My father is against this and wants us to pour slab ourselves but to do it in sections.


It sounds like your husband has the right idea. Is your father retired & looking for something to do? Either way, make sure the proper footings are installed no matter who does it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Dad is thinking about budget first. When you get all the prices and consider time and labour, he looses out.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Hi Keylandt, and welcome to the forum.
My first question is, does hubby or dad have much experience pouring a slab that big?
Second question is, what do you want for a finish? If that will be your floor inside then you can accept nothing less than a pro grade job. A pro company will use a machine to float the slab. Hand floating can be done but results may not be great. Had a friend do his own slab and rented a float and almost had a disaster. Concrete waits for no one and when it starts to set, that is what you get.

Get a few quotes. Plan on 6" x 6" wire at a minimum for the entire slab. Increase the thickness around the perimeter to one foot. Verify what local codes want to see.

Bud


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've diy'd most phases of construction and without a doubt concrete placement/finishing is one of the harder jobs! Keep in mind the concrete supplier will often charge extra to send out less than a full truck.


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## Keylandt (Aug 16, 2018)

Bud9051 said:


> Hi Keylandt, and welcome to the forum.
> My first question is, does hubby or dad have much experience pouring a slab that big?
> Second question is, what do you want for a finish? If that will be your floor inside then you can accept nothing less than a pro grade job. A pro company will use a machine to float the slab. Hand floating can be done but results may not be great. Had a friend do his own slab and rented a float and almost had a disaster. Concrete waits for no one and when it starts to set, that is what you get.
> 
> ...


My Dad has experience in everything. He is major DIY. My husband and myself, not so much. We started off wanting a professional to pour the slab so we called around and got the quotes. Money is always a factor but when my dad found out how the slabs were done, he flipped his lid. Standard in northern Florida/Alabama is a 4 in pour with that fiber mesh concrete stuff. There is no rebar or wiring in the pad itself. My dad is old school and absolutely convinced this is going to crack. He says 6 in slab in sections with footers that are 12-15 inches deep and 12 inches wide is the only way to go. We actually already have the footers dug ourselves and were starting on the process but the rain has slowed us up big time so that is why my husband is fed up and just wants us to turn it over to a professional. Any thoughts on if that 4 inch slab is not going to work?

My dad is adamant he can get the finish anyway we want it but states it doesn't have to be 100% smooth and perfect as we are just putting flooring over it??


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

If you want a 6" slab, simply specify a 6" slab to the contractors. Done.


Somebody on this forum once posted that there are three sure things about concrete:
-Its heavy
-Its going to crack
-Nobody is going to steal it from you
Rebar will not stop concrete from cracking, but will hold it together after it cracks. Having said that, I would want wire mesh or rebar in my slab too. Again, if that's what you want, simply specify it to the concrete guys. 4" might be too thin to put rebar or mesh into.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

I once recommended mesh & stadry basically said that it wasn't all it was cracked up to be. No pun intended.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Assuming you take on the pour, what grade concrete are you going to specify?
Although "slump" gets a bit technical I learned the hard way when the mix was WAY too stiff. A pro I hired later thinned out the mix so they could work it. As I said, not a pro but I was amassed at how easily the pro worked that floor.

Tall boots and several rakes and shovels and running water.
I own a bull float and it makes the work much easier, they can be rented.
Talk to your concrete supplier about schedules, rain dates, load sizes, and many other questions, they do this all the time.
Be sure you can get a concrete truck close enough, that 57' sounds like he will need to reposition the truck from one side to the other.
Decide on renting a power float or hand floating. Power is tough for first time so check some videos.
Have a couple of wheel barrows handy. You hope you don't need them but without you are dead if you do.
Consider putting seams under walls where you can.
Partition with 2x4 so wire mesh or rebar can go under, hold in place with stakes.
Electrical, water, and plumbing may need to come up through the slab so they need to be roughed in and inspected.

The pros will add to or correct that list.

Bud


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bud9051 said:


> Assuming you take on the pour, what grade concrete are you going to specify?
> Although "slump" gets a bit technical I learned the hard way when the mix was WAY too stiff. A pro I hired later thinned out the mix so they could work it. As I said, not a pro but I was amassed at how easily the pro worked that floor.
> 
> Tall boots and several rakes and shovels and running water.
> ...


 You cut notches in the 2x4 from the bottom up so the rebar can stick out 24" at the right height.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Let the pros do it according to a print / drawing specifying finish / flat / level / plumbing just for starters. Get several references and not just by word of mouth but visual of the potential concrete contractors work. If you don't have a print to go by you aren't ready to build a house. Not even close.



I hope the marriage is as secure as 2 pieces of yellow pine glued with Elmer's. That's pretty darn secure. Congrats on a new house and I wish you well.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

> If you want a 6" slab, simply specify a 6" slab to the contractors. Done


Exactly. Going with the company has a lot of benefits. One of them is that you have recourse if something goes wrong.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Keylandt said:


> My Dad has experience in everything. He is major DIY. My husband and myself, not so much. We started off wanting a professional to pour the slab so we called around and got the quotes. Money is always a factor but when my dad found out how the slabs were done, he flipped his lid. Standard in northern Florida/Alabama is a 4 in pour with that fiber mesh concrete stuff. There is no rebar or wiring in the pad itself. My dad is old school and absolutely convinced this is going to crack. He says 6 in slab in sections with footers that are 12-15 inches deep and 12 inches wide is the only way to go. We actually already have the footers dug ourselves and were starting on the process but the rain has slowed us up big time so that is why my husband is fed up and just wants us to turn it over to a professional. Any thoughts on if that 4 inch slab is not going to work?
> 
> My dad is adamant he can get the finish anyway we want it but states it doesn't have to be 100% smooth and perfect as we are just putting flooring over it??



Dad is way off base here, so do as your husband wants to do it, and yes it will crack, but that is why control joints are cut into slabs, doe's Dad know how to do this?, how deep they need to be,how far apart. in what configuration, probably not so save yourself some grief and money, and have the pro's do it, you'll thank yourself in the long run.


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## CodeMatters (Aug 16, 2017)

Very few houses are built direct on slab around here. I wired one a few years ago. 
Would have been easier if owner/builder had discussed with me before the slab 
went in. Ended up with an otherwise unnecessary post at the kitchen island to feed
the outlets. Several other areas would have been faster/easier/cheaper if there'd 
been conduits in the slab. 
Better to leave a dozen empty conduits just in case than miss just one useful one.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I do like your Dad's advice in regard to specifications verse apparently what a local subcontractor is quoting as standard in the area...... but I really am not familiar with the area.... but I am skeptical and like your Dad's advice better.

You say your Dad is accomplished....but gosh.... sure sounds like he might be biteing off more than what two or several non-concrete specialists should be trying to tackle.

*There are no second chances with a concrete pour and finishing....
*
If you want to economise some and maybe meet some of your Dad's opinion, how about doing all the prep work, and have a crew pour the whole slab and finish as profesionals.

If you do all the prep digging and forming as required, you can place and tie the rebar and/or mesh to save costs.... and just hire the pour out with a full experienced crew and just have it done.

Your Dad may be damn good, or/but he may be grossely underestimating the pour without an experienced crew and the time costs of several pours and trip charges etc.

You are building a home.... and that pour will be the FOUNDATION OF ALOT OF MONEY GOING ON TOP OF IT.

My son and I have two manned (and as GC's we are relatively inexperienced as concrete finishers) a single bay garage and lower unfinished storage areas.... and flat work is a lot of quick work necessary.

Does your Dad really have the experience for higher quality flat work... or has he done some sidewalks and thinks large pours must be the same.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I do like your Dad's advice in regard to specifications verse apparently what a local subcontractor is quoting as standard in the area...... but I really am not familiar with the area.... but I am skeptical and like your Dad's advice better.

You say your Dad is accomplished....but gosh.... sure sounds like he might be biteing off more than what two or several non-concrete specialists should be trying to tackle.

*There are no second chances with a concrete pour and finishing....
*
If you want to economise some and maybe meet some of your Dad's opinion, how about doing all the prep work, and have a crew pour the whole slab and finish as profesionals.

If you do all the prep digging and forming as required, you can place and tie the rebar and/or mesh to save costs.... and just hire the pour out with a full experienced crew and just have it done.

Your Dad may be damn good, or/but he may be grossely underestimating the pour without an experienced crew and the time costs of several pours and trip charges etc.

You are building a home.... and that pour will be the FOUNDATION OF ALOT OF MONEY GOING ON TOP OF IT.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Slab pours seldom fail if the mix, slump, ambient temperature, time on the truck and all those things are correct. Slabs most often fail because of the lack of knowledge of the correct soil and soil compaction procedure. I'm sure you can find contractors that may say, " _I drove the tractor over it enough times we should be good to go_ ". That doesn't get it and it's a sure recipe for failure at some point in the future.


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

I think your Dad's right in that people pour slabs in stages all the time. And you tie it in like he says. 

What worries me is that he wants to change the thickness and add a thickened edge just to kicks and grins. It may be better, but is it necessary?

I have no experience in slab home foundations, but the engineer in me prefers to have things _designed_ rather than _guessed_ by some old guy who's seen concrete poured before.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> I'm sure you can find contractors that may say, " _I drove the tractor over it enough times we should be good to go_ ". That doesn't get it and it's a sure recipe for failure at some point in the future.


I used to paint for one of them. He was fond of saying all concrete will crack sooner or later ..... _but I've seen him back fill and pour concrete in the same morning :vs_OMG: _glad I was only responsible for the painting!


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## Keylandt (Aug 16, 2018)

So, I started calling some professionals and now I am more confused than when I started. I have one guy telling me that the dirt pad for the concrete is wrong. We have a sandy clay mix. When we ordered the dirt and explained what it was for, that's what we were told we would need. That pad has been out there for a few months now and it is hard as a rock.....I don't know if that's good or bad? Anyways One concrete guy says we need to buy 3 or 4 more loads of "pure" sand to go on top of the pad for the concrete. After talking to him more he says they don't use rebar in the footers either. He says the code doesn't require him to if he is using that fiber mesh concrete (we are so far out in the country no codes apply to us, the only permit I even need is for the septic) that concrete guy says we can use the rebar we already purchased but there is no need to hang it, he'll just push it down in the footer after the concrete is poured. Does any of this sound right? FYI: I spent $2300 for the dirt/spreading/leveling the first time. It will be about another $300 for "pure" sand and $1000 to spread it 😕


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Locally we use gravel for fill/drainage under slabs. I'd be concerned that sand would pull too much moisture out of the concrete. I wouldn't consider not using rebar in the footer!


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Place a sample of your $2,300 dollar dirt in a jar to determine what you really have. Shake vigorously and let set for a few hours or overnight. The brown in the pic is my garden dirt and the orange, or a variation of this color, is concrete construction dirt that's used extensively in the area for residential or commercial construction. The lighter color orange was used for a shop building and the darker orange for a large 2 story commercial building. A small amount of clay is acceptable.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Please NOTE I am not a concrete contractor but have worked in the construction trade for 40 years.
Have been on many construction sites & have reviewed many plans ( blue prints ) for both commercial & residential type work all called for reinforcement in the poured concrete. Do some research on footings & slabs details for residential construction & most will call for reinforcement.

One reference you could use is the Building Estimator's Reference Book by Frank R. Walker Company dated 1915 1963 The section on reinforced concrete calls for rebar & other type reinforcement I know it is OLD info but a lot of these structures are still standing to day I wonder WHY ?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

mark sr said:


> Locally we use gravel for fill/drainage under slabs. I'd be concerned that sand would pull too much moisture out of the concrete. I wouldn't consider not using rebar in the footer!


 You would cover any fill with 6 mil poly.


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## dalepres (Mar 20, 2011)

I know this is an old thread but if the OP is doing it DIY this may still be in time to consider. 


I didn't see any mention of a concrete pumping truck. With that size of a slab, a pumping truck will make the pour much easier and the wetter mix will be much more forgiving. And the whole thing will be much better on the back since you won't be running all day with wheelbarrows full of heavy concrete.


Around where I live, a concrete pump truck is about 500 for half a day, plenty of time to pour that slab if you have enough of a crew.


You can also request a slow-setting additive to give even more time to work it.


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