# SLC: Mixed Feelings



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Tell me that not partical board you used as a sub floor.
Why are you doing it this way instead for just adding a layer of Tile board?


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Its a Concrete Slab underneath on 1st floor.


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

Did you get the 5/8 hight by doing the slc? Did u mark the bottom of the side walls so u know we're to end up at? 
Joe is correct this is the hard way of doing it since your raising the hight of the floor that high.

Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JetSwet said:


> Did you get the 5/8 hight by doing the slc? Did u mark the bottom of the side walls so u know we're to end up at?
> Joe is correct this is the hard way of doing it since your raising the hight of the floor that high.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


Yes, thats exactly what I did. I started my pencil marks on the wall from the Toilet Flange and connected them on all walls using the Level. Then from the height of pencil marks I subtracted:

- Width of the Level
- 1/4" Difference between Top of Toilet Flange and Finished Surface
- 1/4" of Thin Set
- 3/8" of Ceramic Tiles

and got myself a Sharpie marks and line.

This area by the Toilet Flange:









You can see them in this image also (thats where I ran out of SLC):









The problem in my case that my bathroom is T-shaped. Once you open a door, Toilet on the Left and Sink on the Right.

Thanks again,
almazon


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Almost everyone who uses SLC misunderstands that is does NOT level a floor magically. Most people do not have enough product on hand and are not ready to work fast, which is required. 

Often times, "leveling" a room is not desirable since it would raise parts of it too much. 

Using a 1/4" trowel will NOT raise the floor 1/4". But, if you're using "normal" thickness porcelain tiles that are 12-14", you should be using a 1/4x3/8x1/4 instead. 

Jaz


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

tile doesn't really care about the floor being level but it likes it flat very much. you say it needs to be 1-1/4 to be 1/4 inch lower then the toilet flange but in the photo i don't see a flange for the toilet only the pipe stubbed up?


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

You need to be leveled to lay tile if you have a gap from the wall to middle of the floor for what ever reason this stuff comes in handy although I prefer to use morter with the milk mix drys quick on you so you really have to be prepared on how to do it. The pictures look good I'm impressed on how smooth it came out around the toilet.

Your gap around were your flange is going might be to much I would tighten up closer to your pipe so when you solder your flange on the flange sites right on the slc.

Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

DannyT said:


> tile doesn't really care about the floor being level but it likes it flat very much. you say it needs to be 1-1/4 to be 1/4 inch lower then the toilet flange but in the photo i don't see a flange for the toilet only the pipe stubbed up?


Now we're back to Toilet Flange


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JazMan said:


> Almost everyone who uses SLC misunderstands that is does NOT level a floor magically. Most people do not have enough product on hand and are not ready to work fast, which is required.
> 
> Often times, "leveling" a room is not desirable since it would raise parts of it too much.
> 
> ...


I have and planning to use 1/4x3/8x1/4 for my 3/8" 12x12 Ceramic Tiles.


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

almazon said:


> Now we're back to Toilet Flange


Posting closer pictures looks better I couldn't tell from the farther away pic looks good to me just make shore it's secure on the slc.

Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

*Not Watery Enough?*

Ok, guys,

Based on what I saw in numerous online video tutorials about SLC I think I know where my problem was.

SLC really wasn't watery enough and I had to move a lot of it around. It started to stick to trowel almost immediately.

I was mixing 50lbs of LevelQuick RS + 6 1/2 Quarts of Water.

Could it be the case?
Any ideas?
What tool would you recommend for this job?

TIA
almazon


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

almazon said:


> Ok, guys,
> 
> Based on what I saw in numerous online video tutorials about SLC I think I know where my problem was.
> 
> ...


The fact that you had to go so high up could be the issue. This stuff drys quick if it was clumping up on you fairly soon and you didn't add water would cause as well. The trick is to keep the water in so it doesn't dry out, keep wetting your trowel cleaning it have a bucket of water with you and don't mix so much at one time.

Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Why did you decide to use RS? You have to mix it exactly like it tells you on the bag, use cold water and be ready to roll. Did you add the powder to the water or the other way? 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JazMan said:


> Why did you decide to use RS? You have to mix it exactly like it tells you on the bag, use cold water and be ready to roll. Did you add the powder to the water or the other way?
> 
> Jaz


I decided to use whatever was available at my local Home Depot. Is there something wrong with RS? Yes, I added the powder to cold water.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JetSwet said:


> The fact that you had to go so high up could be the issue this stuff drys quick if it was clumping up on you fairly soon and you didn't add water would cause as well the trick is to keep the water in so it doesn't dry out keep wetting your trowel cleaning it have a bucket of water with you and don't mix so much at one time.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


Sorry JetSwet,

No offense, but can you use some punctuation?


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

Lol yeah I tend to just run on and on with my posts Opps

Sent from my iPhone 4 ios5


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Guys,

I really need your help with this.

So far I found only 2 types of SLC: LevelQuick RS (Home Depot) and Laticrete (Lowes).

Now, Laticrete at Lowes requires even less water (4.5-4.75 qts) for 50lb bag.

1.How much do you guys usually add water?
2.What brand of SLC do you use?
3.If I continue with LevelQuick RS can I add more water than recommended 6.5 quarts?

Thank you in advance,
almazon


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> Sorry JetSwet,
> 
> No offense, but can you use some punctuation?





> Lol yeah I tend to just run on and on with my posts Opps


:laughing: Yes, while you're at it also get spell-check, a dictionary and a thesaurus. That way you'll know which synonym or antonym to use too. Do you hear me here? They're available there if you dare to use them, their benefits are outstanding when we speak English.

Jaz


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Almazon,

The only reason I questioned you using LevelQuik RS is that it's RS, (rapid setting). I recommend a regular setting product unless it's a small dip and the meter is running for hired help to start the next step. 



> 1.How much do you guys usually add water?


Use exactly the amount of cold water written in the instructions. 



> 2.What brand of SLC do you use?


I don't use it often enough to have a favorite. Also since I am in a large metro area, I have many choices. 



> 3.If I continue with LevelQuick RS can I add more water than recommended 6.5 quarts?


Absolutely not. Did you prime the floor first? Were you ready to rock n roll having everything ready including a plan? Do you have a powerful drill motor and proper mixing paddle? Did you think it was gonna completely level itself? :no:

Jaz


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

JazMan said:


> :laughing: Yes, while you're at it also get spell-check, a dictionary and a thesaurus. That way you'll know which synonym or antonym to use too. Do you hear me here? They're available there if you dare to use them, their benefits are outstanding when we speak English.
> 
> Jaz


Jaz, you can't make fun of me because I have already made fun of my self by posting in general on the forum. Ha ha ha!


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> Jaz, you can't make fun of me because I have already made fun of my self by posting in general on the forum. Ha ha ha!


Yes, congrats on that. :thumbsup:

It's just a pet peeve of mine wondering what people are thinking when they write "here" when they're referring to "hear", as in listening. Or they write "there" when they are talking about possession, "their". 

It's not that I majored in English either. I have no degree, but I have visited several Universities. :laughing:

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Come on, guys!
Can we get back to my unfinished floor? 




JazMan said:


> The only reason I questioned you using LevelQuik RS is that it's RS, (rapid setting). I recommend a regular setting product unless it's a small dip and the meter is running for hired help to start the next step.


I totally understand, but I am new at this. I just simply didn't know about FLOW time. Even today when I got different product called HENRY 555 LevelPro (I kinda like word _Pro_ in it), I found out that it has SAME 10 mins of flow time. Even though sales guy at HomeDepot said its supposed to be better than LevelQuick RS. 



JazMan said:


> Use exactly the amount of cold water written in the instructions.


 I did exactly as Instructions say. 



JazMan said:


> Absolutely not. Did you prime the floor first? Were you ready to rock n roll having everything ready including a plan? Do you have a powerful drill motor and proper mixing paddle? Did you think it was gonna completely level itself? :no:


Yes, I primed the floor first. I have 14.4 Bosch Cordless Drill which is strong enough with up to 1200 RPM.

About mixing paddle? Now, thats a tricky question. I used WAL-BOARD Mixer 81-004 when I was told today that most likely I will have better results with BRUTUS 16" Universal Mixing Paddle. What do you think?

almazon


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

Henry 555 requires their priming liquid as well.
Did you use the Henry primer?
They are both rapid setting just different brands.
Like I said before this was the hardest way of raising the floor to that hight.
Finnish the floor the way you were doing it.
Mix it to the instructions, making it a little wetter won't hurt you. ( mix the compound to look like chocolate syrup) that's the consistency you want.
You can't stop half way and decide to use something completely different. 

How much sqr do you have left to do.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JetSwet said:


> Henry 555 requires their priming liquid as well.
> Did you use the Henry primer?
> They are both rapid setting just different brands.
> Like I said before this was the hardest way of raising the floor to that hight.
> ...


Hey JetSwet,

I didn't use Henry 555 yet. I know its Rapid Setting. It has same Flow time as LevelQuick RS. I have Henry Primer, but didn't use it yet as well.

Are you suggesting to return Henry 555 and go back to LevelQuick RS?

My whole bathroom is about 27 sq ft, but I stopped here:









So I would say about 1/3 of it left. But then again first 2/3 are not perfectly leveled as well. 

So most likely what I am gonna do is to match approx height on area whats left unfinished to the rest AND then reLevel whole surface all over again with very thin coat.

What do you think? 

TIA
almazon


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

I just talked to manager in my local Home Depot. He told me he can special order it for me for $33.44 a bag AND its gonna be here (Staten Island,NY) in 10-14 days. 

Do you think it worth for me to wait RATHER than just do the job with RS?

Thank you in advance,
almazon


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> I just talked to manager in my local Home Depot. He told me he can special order it for me for $33.44 a bag AND its gonna be here (Staten Island,NY) in 10-14 days.
> 
> Do you think it worth for me to wait RATHER than just do the job with RS?


Are you some how attached to the orange place? Gee wiz man, you're on Staten Island, there's gotta be a couple hundred places to find various products like this. I'll bet there's even hundreds of real tile stores in the area too. :huh: Simply cross one of the bridges to NJ and you'll be all set. 

Meanwhile, NO, I would not wait. Either go somewhere else or use the RS. It'll probably go better the second time anyway. 

BTW, are those waves against the back wall or stains that make it look like the floor is very un-even?

Jaz


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

Almazon -

Go to any decent bldg. supply house...and or tile shop

What about 

Richmond Tile
31 North Bridge Street Staten Island, NY 10309
 (718) 317-8500

FWIW, I'm a HUGE fan of Mapei self levelers. Laticrete does not even have a 
a competing product that is a self level that goes up from feather to 2".


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JazMan said:


> BTW, are those waves against the back wall or stains that make it look like the floor is very un-even?
> 
> Jaz


I knew someone gotta ask this 
No, its just stains. I am not THAT bad.

Anyway, guys, I am really sorry if I am gonna disappoint you, but I already ordered 4 bags of ES! I just kinda like the way it looked on video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACexRuifg18


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Here's an Update!

Guess what? Today I got a courtesy call from local Home Depot that my special order is there. When I got there they rolled out a cart with 4 bags of LevelQuik *RS* in it. :thumbup: Same RS that they have about 100 bags on the shelves.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Par, you were expecting efficiency? Kinda like ordering at the fast food place. Invariably most orders have an error. :yes: Too bad there's no tile shops near you. 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JazMan said:


> Par, you were expecting efficiency? Kinda like ordering at the fast food place. Invariably most orders have an error. :yes: Too bad there's no tile shops near you.
> 
> Jaz


Absolutely not! We have 2 of the biggest ones on Staten Island. Few blocks from me AND right across the street from each other.

Question is what am I looking for?

PS. Somehow I tend to believe that Home Depot is offering much lower price. In my area, I guess like in any other, is a LOT of ripoff going on top of very poor quality.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Ah yes, you're on Staten Island. Most of their prices are good, that's right. (until they drive the competition out of business, then the price goes up). Just hard to find anyone that knows much about some of the specialized departments. They refuse to hire anyone that they can't keep for $8. 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Jaz,

Anyway, what should I look for in those stores?


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> what should I look for in those stores?


I don't know what the choices are. The idea was to get an SLC that wasn't rapid setting. 

So, what are you gonna do now? Go see what the tile shops have, or just use the RS. 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Home Depot called today in the morning. They apologized for inconvenience and said that vendor made a mistake. I am not in the rush. I agreed to wait for correct one. I have 2 bathrooms left in my house.


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

Almazon. If the 2 tile stores are literrally a hairs breath a way, WHY not support the local tile shop.

I suppose price is a factor for some......but have you visited them, inquired about price.
Yes, there are quite a bldg supply stores I won't frequent as some have a prices 2X where they should be at.....but others are generally inline, have better product, better grade items and oftentimes *fresher products* to boot.

Support your local tile store if you can. I would...


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Gee, man!
I really didn't want to discuss anything besides SLC.

Unless you're the owner of one of those stores (or both of them) and trying to promote them, I dont see why you advise me to support them.

I am sorry, but Price is the only and Number 1 factor for me. 

There is no comparison between local shops and super centers. They would never match it to local Home Depot or Lowes. Atleast pricewise. As a matter of fact I went to one of those local stores and their tiles were double money compare to Home Depot's.

It appears to me that local stores are for real pros, like JazMan here. I am rather a Weekend Warrior. I do everything myself in my house (thanks to stores like Home Depot) except HVAC and Roofing. That I am leaving to pros!

Also keep in mind that we live in Internet Era. I'd love to shop around, but if I can not find something locally I am going online, where I am buying almost everything. Except maybe food, TVs, some furniture. Those I buy in places like Costco or Sams Club.

Salute!


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

When you do tile and flooring for a living you would understand that big box stores are over rated. It's a good thing to support your local stores no matter what kind of profession your in.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> As a matter of fact I went to one of those local stores and their tiles were double money compare to Home Depot's.


I don't believe that is true at all. It's true that the big box store might have tiles that are half of what the tile shops sell, but they are not the same tiles. 

You are less likely to find high quality tiles at the big box store. You will find lots of junk, and many very decent tiles, nothing high-end though. They could care less how your project works out long term. 

Porcelain tiles of good quality will cost you $4-6 a ft. or so. Anything under $3 should be considered inexpensive. Those .79 cents tile should be avoided unless it's for a room you don't care much about. Real junk. :yes:

Jaz


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

If you're doing a home bathroom project in need or good mortar with fresh dates, Granirapid, 254, Hydroban, Aqua Defense, Noble Seal, etc - all things that will make a successful installation should you need said products, you will find it at a supply shop. The local mom-pop shop is already a dying breed. I try to support them when I can . They probably have bags of non rapid setting SLC as is already......


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Hey guys,

I finally got my LevelQuik ES. Actually I got it long time ago. About 1 week after my last post of March 8th. Its just I had to finish some other more important projects.

Anyway, I have few questions and I really need your advices.

I found out that when I applied SLC first time I slightly went over my markings, so the highest point now is about 3/16-1/4 above.

1.I guess my best bet this time would be pouring SLC from unfinished side first and then slowly work it towards and over first layer? 

2. Should I go up to new or old markings?

3.How leveled the floor supposed to be? Is the tile suppose to lay completely flat? Is little free play allowable?

4.Can I fix slightly unleveled floor situation with thinset when laying down the tiles?

I thought I will mark layout, pre-cut the tiles and then start laying them down from the highest point, making sure they leveled and adding more thinset underneath. Will it work?

5.When you say I should work fast, what do you mean by that and how fast?

6.What tools would you recommend? Will 16x4 Finishing Trowel that I have do the job?

Thank you in advance,
almazon


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Ok, back to it.

It's easy to mess up if you're not careful. Although it's called "self leveling", it does NOT get level by its self.

1. I don't know, you decide.

2. I don't know, you decide.

3. As flat as possible. A tile will rock if it's not flat within its space. The floor needs to be flat within 1/16" in 12". 

4. If you have the experience to do that, minor adjustments can be done. But you won't know until after the tile is set if required. This is why you're using self-leveling, it'll come out pretty close to flat. 



> I thought I will mark layout, pre-cut the tiles and then start laying them down from the highest point, making sure they leveled and adding more thinset underneath. Will it work?


Why do all that extra work? What are the chances that you'll set them in exactly the same spot the second time? Thinset mortar is not for leveling. You know, it's not a crime to not be able to install tiles yourself.

5. What does it say on the bags? The humidity, temp and wind also influence how much time you have. 

6. What do you need a trowel for? You don't use a trowel with self leveling. 
You can use a long squeegee or a rake made for this. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACexRuifg18 There are dozen of other videos, take a look.

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Happy Easter, people!

I just poured second layer of SLC and I am very happy with the results. Oh, yeah, this time it was like a Chocolate Milk, very watery and loose. I used slightly more water, 6.5 L instead of 6.1 L.

This time I also used NIOSH Mask, Squeegee (still not sure if its the right one), ES and different Paddle:









After I primed the surface I saw how bad it was for the 1st time:









I marked the level where it should go up to (bottom of blue tape)...









...and all lower points:









And finally poured:









I wish I could do it right from the beginning. Lets see how it will be together with the 1st layer. I will keep you posted.

TIA,
almazon


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Well, guys, 

My second pour with ES is perfect (dark concrete on this picture):









but I think I messed up when I poured first time with the RS. Its not THAT bad but in couple of places tile has a free play.

What are my options?
What would you do?

Pour again but this time all bathroom? 
Grind high spots?
Play with thinset when laying tiles?

I really need your advices,
almazon


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

There's no way anyone other than the person who is in that room, on his knees with a straight edge in his hands to give you a worthwhile answer. You're the installer, we can't see what you've got there. 



> 1. Pour again but this time all bathroom?
> 2. Grind high spots?
> 3. Play with thinset when laying tiles?


Probably not #3, but the other two options are in play. All depends on how flat everything is. The setting process can tweak about 1/16" play. 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks Jaz,
Yes, you're right.

I think for now I will go with grinding. I will be able to re-pour it at anytime. Its risky, because I dont want to go too high.

I will see what grinding tool I'll find in my local HomeDepot. Btw, what grinder would you recommend?

Thanks again,
almazon


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Also, but this idea came from my better half, is to break all uneven concrete and pour new ES.


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

almazon said:


> Also, but this idea came from my better half, is to break all uneven concrete and pour new ES.


Almazon, we're are your high spots on the bathroom floor?
How high can you afford to continue to raise the floor with this stuff?

Jaz posted a video of how this was done, mix it just right so when you poor it, it then will find the low spots and and travel there little to no floating if mixed right.

I think your issue is your doing little sections at a time and touching it way to much, so you have your perimeter line boarder for hight poor the hole bathroom at once working your way out, but! Make shore u have have hight left over. it looked like you had it in the beginning post don't recall what happend other then you running out of slc.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks Jet for your reply!

What happened is my first pour was not really successful.

That happened for the number of reasons. First, of course, it was my first time. Then I used warm (room temperature) water and wrong paddle for the job. On top of everything it was RS (Rapid Setting).

I even wouldn't pay attention about difference between RS or ES if not *JazMan*.

Now, 2 days ago, I poured ES. This time I did everything right. It came out perfectly leveled. But my previous pour with RS is not.

There are 2-3 high spots. I could pour again, but its risky, because I can't do it too high. Maybe another 1/8. And I definitely dont want to mess up good area.

I could also cut bad area and break it with jackhammer, but I am afraid to damage the slab and God knows what.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

If you could pour the whole thing again, that would be best. Even when mixed perfectly you will get a line where the new pour ends. Be sure to place foam at the perimeter and of course you need to prime again.

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Nice! Sorry for ignorance, but I didn't put foam before with 3/4" thick SLC. Do you think it makes sence to do it now with 1/8-1/4".

I still have few questions though...

Where should I start pouring?
Do I have to use same Squeegee to spread it around?
What are my chances to get it right with one bag that covers 50 sq ft at 1/8"?


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

The foam needs to be placed on the perimeter of the entire area you are pouring.
Based on last thread pics, no foam was used on the new pour.

If it was me, I would rip it all out, scarify, primer...buy a bunch of bags, buckets, beer for buddies - and have a A helper or 2 to help with the multiple bag/bucket/single shot pour. It doesn't take alot for ever the SLC to tent...

A extra bag of SLC is cheap compared to doing multiple pours..


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Guys,

I think I am going to re-pour. Its 27 sq ft. I am gonna do it with just one bag (50 sq ft at 1/8"). Minus couple low spots. I already primed it.

When I was priming it looks like I saw some... cracks? Is it possible? Please dont tell me its because I didn't put foam on the sides and it shrunk/expanded.

TIA,
almazon


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks guys,

I just did the job. Excellent results. I am very happy. Little bit higher than I was calculating. 1/4 instead of 1/8.


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## pgc555 (Jan 6, 2012)

Post some more pictures if you can.:thumbup:


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Sure. Here there are.
I am not sure if they will fully describe how level it is though.

Thanks everybody and Special thanks to *JazMan* and *JetSwet*!

Btw, as a foam I used 3/8"x3/16" Vinyl Self Stick Weatherseal Tape which I decided to leave there.






































Thanks again,
almazon


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## pgc555 (Jan 6, 2012)

Now that looks better:thumbsup:
A "flat-in plane" surface is what you were looking for, and it looks like you got it. Nice job.


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## JetSwet (Jan 21, 2012)

almazon said:


> Sure. Here there are.
> I am not sure if they will fully describe how level it is though.
> 
> Thanks everybody and Special thanks to JazMan and JetSwet!
> ...


Good job almazon! I knew there was light at the end of this tunnel for ya.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Looks good to me, good job. :thumbsup: Now protect the floor and get going on the walls.

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Looks like my feelings are no longer THAT mixed. SLC is wonderful product. I think I could get it right even with RS if I would do it properly.

Yeah, I guess laying out tiles and then do the walls would be gross.

What protection would you recommend? I usually use plastic while painting. Some people recommend paper.


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Plastic should never be used as a drop cloth on the floor. Plastic is to cover furniture. Use either paper or cotton drop cloths, like the ones painters use. 

Plastic can be slippery and will easily move. Plus when a drop of paint falls on plastic, it will not soak in, so you step on it and track it somewhere else. Use cloth.

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Thanks Jaz,
Actually, let me rephrase myself.

Normally I don't put any cover on the floor except for the strip of blue tape where roller touches the floor. Then am trying to be as neat as possible. Even if I have 1-2 drips here or there I can wipe them off easily.

Now here I have different story. Floor is unfinished. There will be a lot of dust from sanding. So you're right, I am gonna get myself roll of brown paper from Lowes and use it as a cover.

almazon


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

> Jaz, So you're right,


Of course I'm right, and why I say.........................



> I have NEVER made a mistake, I thought I did once......but I was wrong!


 :laughing:

Sounds good to me. Drops are easy to see and wipe up. Roller mist you can't see. 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

*I am back!*

Heya guys,

I am back! Wow! Its been 5 months since my last post.
Sorry for the delay. I had to do some other projects.

Anyway, walls were finished and painted, tiles were marked and cut. But before I'll start laying them down I have couple questions.

First is that I have some cracks in my SLC. They dont look very deep. I hope its nothing serious.


















What do you think? Can I lay the tiles over it?

Second, its rather belongs to another topic, but since I am here... Is this *AcrylPro Ceramic Tile Adhesive* a right stuff for the job? Will it hold well? Is there shelf life for it because I have it (unopened) for few months.









Thank you in advance,
almazon


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## pgc555 (Jan 6, 2012)

AL,
Are those your pencil marks or did you pour over existing tile?
As far as your MASTIC that came from Home Depot - NO don't
use it on your floor. A bag of Versabond from HD is about 15 bucks
a bag. Use that- BACK-BUTTER your tile also.


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

Sorry those cracks are more than a little. 

How deep was the pour. Was it primed right. Water mixed to the T .
Or maybe you are having movement on the substrate. Whatever the case may be, that SLC will need to come out.
It will only just progressively get worse once tile is laid ....and tiles will crack.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

pgc555 said:


> AL,
> Are those your pencil marks or did you pour over existing tile?
> As far as your MASTIC that came from Home Depot - NO don't
> use it on your floor. A bag of Versabond from HD is about 15 bucks
> a bag. Use that- BACK-BUTTER your tile also.


Yes, those are my pencil marks. What is BACK-BUTTER?

PS. Yes, I got it about BACK-BUTTER. Nice Idea!


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

mobiledynamics said:


> Sorry those cracks are more than a little.
> 
> How deep was the pour. Was it primed right. Water mixed to the T .
> Or maybe you are having movement on the substrate. Whatever the case may be, that SLC will need to come out.
> It will only just progressively get worse once tile is laid ....and tiles will crack.


Damn, thats really sad news. And there is nothing I can do? Maybe seal it somehow.

It was 2 pours. Both times primed well.
Water mixed to T?


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

It's not the sealing. You have a cracked substrated. You need to determine what cause it. Could it be flex on the floor. Whatever the case may be, identify and address this before you tile. Just because you poured SLC and now have a level floor, it does not mean that you can tile it. Waste effort if you tile ontop now. The tile will crack on the loose substrate.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

mobiledynamics said:


> It's not the sealing. You have a cracked substrated. You need to determine what cause it. Could it be flex on the floor. Whatever the case may be, identify and address this before you tile. Just because you poured SLC and now have a level floor, it does not mean that you can tile it. Waste effort if you tile ontop now. The tile will crack on the loose substrate.


Ok, but the tile was there before and it did not crack. It was sitting on mud bed though.
Maybe I have a chance?


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

Almazon,

If you don't take that j**k back, both products, I will never talk to you again!:yes::laughing: 

Cracks; Did you forget to make sure the floor was stiff?



almazon said:


> Ok, but the tile was there before and it did not crack. It was sitting on mud bed though.


Makes all the difference in the world pal. Your old tiles were no where near the subfloor. Besides the cracks, is the SLC solid? Tap with the handle of a screwdriver how does it sound compared to other areas? Any give when a heavy person steps on and off? Can you tell? Maybe look from below.

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

JazMan said:


> Almazon,
> 
> If you don't take that j**k back, both products, I will never talk to you again!:yes::laughing:
> 
> ...


Jaz, thanks for your response!

By tapping I found a few hollow spots near the cracks.
Just few. The rest of the floor is solid.
What are my options?

I had no idea about checking the floor for stiffness.
By same tapping?


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

Almazon -

IMO, I would just out the brakes on, take 3 step back and just do some basic reading.
Mastic is a big no. Pre mixed grout. The only thing premixed I would consider is urethane or customs epoxy - but those are even a far stretch....I'd choose Spectralock anyday.

But fundamentals like a $18 bag of thinset, having the right substrate, are your joist ready to support your tile, etc - these are all fundamentals you should know before taking the project headon.

SLC aint' cheap nor is I assume your time and labor.
I could live with 1 hairline surface crack but what you have is a bigger problem.

I know you mentioned those 2 big tile stores are just a earshot away. Have you considered just getting a bid or 2 from one of their tilesetters....


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

There are no joists involved here since I am doing this on Concrete Slab of 1st Floor. Unless there is something I missed.
And I have no basement either.

It look like those cracks are from 3rd layer of SLC at the thinnest part. At least I think so.

What worse outcome will happen if I use these materials over those cracks?


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## JazMan (Feb 17, 2007)

You know I had thought you were on a slab, just didn't wanna read the entire thing again. If a few spots sound hollow, then they need to be redone. Might be able to cut out, prime a just do those spots.....maybe. Try it and see. 

Jaz


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Guys,

Honestly, tomorrow I would like to lay down those tiles as is. With those materials and those cracks. My INTUITION, which never let me down, tells me its ok and that I can proceed.

I really appreciate, first of all, YOUR EXPERIENCE, and HELP, but I decided to do it this way.

SPECIAL THANKS goes to JazMan, mobiledynamics and JetSwet!
Thanks to you I've learned a LOT!

I am not saying "Good Bye!" and I will keep you posted!

Thanks again,
almazon


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

Heya guys,

Here's some update...

I am on my way to return AcrylPro.
Even I've found most of reviews are good, some say they have had problem with drying, etc. PLUS, of course, you said its NO-NO.

Also, luckily, I found an opened bag of this product in my garage:









I believe this is what *pgc555* was talking about.

Does this product sound better?


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## mobiledynamics (Jul 29, 2010)

Yes, Versabond is fine but THROW that bag away, especially if its been sitting opened .

Rule 1 of Tile : Always check the batch code dates. You want fresh products.

You can lead a horse to water but....
IMO, I would address the cracks before moving ahead.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

*Here's few pics*

Hey guys,

Here's few pics of my tile job done. Keep in mind that it was done for the first time...













































Few lessons learned, like butter-backing, working by small areas and keeping the thin-set as fresh as possible and I think next time I will perform much better.

Now, once I installed Pedestal Sink I realized that it would be nice idea to put wall tiles around it which is discussed in Tiles Over Painted Drywall

Thanks again,
almazon


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

Nice job!
Is that toilet flange below the finished floor?
How will you correct that?


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

sublime2 said:


> Nice job!
> Is that toilet flange below the finished floor?
> How will you correct that?


Thanks!
No, its just pipe covered with plastic. Toilet Flange will go either leveled with Finished Floor or slightly (1/4") above.


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## OhioDon (Jul 7, 2010)

Almazon: how do your tiles look after nearly a year? Any problems with cracking? I'm looking at an SLC project but I will be using vinyl tile planks over it so I won't have to worry about tile breaking.


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## almazon (Feb 19, 2012)

OhioDon said:


> Almazon: how do your tiles look after nearly a year? Any problems with cracking? I'm looking at an SLC project but I will be using vinyl tile planks over it so I won't have to worry about tile breaking.


Heya guys, OhioDon,
I am cool and my tiles are even better. All there and nothing cracked. So far so good.

I don't have wood moldings anymore. I replaced them with Marble and Aluminum cap for richer look.

Thanks for asking,
almazon


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