# Exterior door, metal veneer delaminating



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Time for a new door.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Yeah, new door!


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Why are you saying new door? Have you guys actually tried to fix this sort of problem before? Seems like a lot of effort to replace when this one is 98% a good door. Especially since whatever it causing it to rub might be related to the frame or hinges, not the slab. I only have the picture to go by so far, but I'd like to know some options when I go look at it tomorrow.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Dealing with doors can have it's own set of problems.
If you know what you're doing - that door can be repaired.
Notice, I said - "know what you're doing"!
Yes, I have fixed that problem before.
On a "DIY" site - without seeing it -
Sometimes it's hard to give a complete answer!
This is a "DIY" site - we try to provide guidance.
Maybe the "OP" should find someone in their area, who has expertise
with doors and see what they say.

Yeah, look at the top hinge for starters.

rossfingal


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Forget about the hinges and the sticking. I'm just talking about reattaching the metal.


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## HomeSealed (Jan 3, 2008)

cheap, builder grade door that is falling apart = time to replace. That door probably cost under $200 brand new, no sense in spending time and money to repair. You could probably pull out some Mcguyver type stuff to get it back together in the short term, but not with any degree of fit and finish


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

You could try PL Premium. Probably won't stick to the steel as well as it does to the wood, but if you can get enough surface area in contact, might very well hold.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

jeffnc said:


> Forget about the hinges and the sticking. I'm just talking about reattaching the metal.


If all you do is reattach the metal without dealing with the problem -
continued failure.
Top hinge.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Yes that is obvious. I understand how to fix the other aspects of the door. Assuming the problem is dealt with, the question is, how best to reattach the metal?

I hear the message about replacing the door, and that it may be a cheap door, and that might be exactly what I do. I'm asking about other options. If anyone has any experience in reattaching this type of material, I'd like to hear from them.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

OK -
Clamp the surface of the door - padded with wood (shims, paint-stir
sticks, 1X4's ... whatever you got.
There's a warp on the flange of the metal - tap that down - best you can.
Get a very, sharp center punch and dimple the flange -
then drill the flange progressivly (SP?) - starting with a very small drill-bit - increase the size of the drill-bit, until you have a nice hole in
the flange - (Use your judgement).
Get stainless-steel trim nails or long steel pop-rivets and fasten the flange to the wood sub-strate.
Pop-rivet - 1/8th inch drill bit - 
Nail - slightly smaller then the shank on the nail.

Disclaimer: Do not try this -
Unless - under the direct supervision of someone experienced in this
type of endeavour!

Look at the top hinge (all the hinges!)!
Have fun!

(Oh - by the way - if you don't know how to deal with the hinges - find someone
that does!)


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

My friend, I'm quite sure there is no one in the world experienced "in this type on endeavour" other than yourself! Thanks anyway.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Your welcome!
However, there are other people with experience -
they showed me!


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I was being a tad sarcastic, of course.

But your list was difficult to understand. "Nail - slightly smaller then the shank on the nail." ???


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I bet he meant "drill a hole slightly smaller then the nail shank"


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You have absolutely nothing to loose by trying--other than a tube of PL Premium and some time----pad your clamps well and let us know how it turns out---Mike---


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

If you don't care how it looks. You might be able to drill a hole and a screw and washer.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I see no reason why that can't be glued up. PL would be my choice too.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

joecaption said:


> I bet he meant "drill a hole slightly smaller then the nail shank"


You are correct, Sir!
(Very, slightly smaller - otherwise, you'll dimple - distort the flange too much!)

PL Premium Polyurethane is your friend! 
(Keep it off your hands, clothes, hair, etc...)

The hardest part is getting a decent hole in the flange.
Don't over-nail it - just snug!
You can usually find the stainless-steel trim nails at a Big Box store -
don't use aluminum!
Pre-drill a little!

You should still look at the hinges!
Good luck!

rossfingal

("PL" by itself might hold it - don't use the door, for a day or two, though -
You'll still have to clamp the door - can't close it.)


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