# best way to remove nails in concrete block



## michaelcherr (Nov 10, 2010)

Big pry bar- Will probably cause chipping though
Angle Grinder


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## silky (Apr 22, 2009)

angle grinder/cut off wheel. will make quick work of them.


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## carpitect (Jun 15, 2011)

You may also try knocking them back and forth with a hammer until they loosen up enough to pull them out - or they break off at the wall. That may cause some minor chipping as well though.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

might go out and buy an angle grinder tonight and try that, and certain type of disc's that would be best for this? just a metal cutting disc?


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## michaelcherr (Nov 10, 2010)

Standard metal cutting disk.

Get an angle grinder in your tool arsenol, you will thank yourself. 
I went along time without one, now that I bought one (now several) I use it frequently.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Thin (.040) cutting disk would be the best.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

thanks guys, hopefully will get to try this out tonight and hope it goes well and fast


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

michaelcherr said:


> Standard metal cutting disk.
> 
> Get an angle grinder in your tool arsenol, you will thank yourself.
> I went along time without one, now that I bought one (now several) I use it frequently.


Definitely agree with this. Used to use a recip saw for nails and thought it worked pretty good, but the grinder blows right through them and is far more controllable.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

Nick DIY said:


> Definitely agree with this. Used to use a recip saw for nails and thought it worked pretty good, but the grinder blows right through them and is far more controllable.


 
I tried a recip saw already, hated it way to slow for me :laughing:


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## silky (Apr 22, 2009)

it's just a really thing disk. It doesn't have the rought grooves on the ont he flat part like a grinding disk does.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If they are cut concrete nails they will break off instead of bend. I have an old diamond tile cutting disk on my grinder and it cuts nails or anything else great.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

to make it go faster I used a cutting disc to cut a groove in the nail, then two taps of a hammer it broke off right at the slit, saved time grinding, about 5 seconds a nail to remove, major speed improvement over a recip saw or crow bar


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

jiju1943 said:


> If they are cut concrete nails they will break off instead of bend. I have an old diamond tile cutting disk on my grinder and it cuts nails or anything else great.



I used a diamond blade to slice through a 4" cast iron drain pipe once--It didn't seem to hurt the thing at all.:laughing:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Mike, I have used the old diamond disk to sharpen my lawn mower blades also. 

One strange thing I did a few years back was with a drimmel. I had a dozer and I had to take the track off to get to the bull gear in the final drive. I didn't have my grinder there so I use a metal cutting disk on my drimmel to cut the wield on the pin so I could get the track off, worked like a charm.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Some tools are just so handy to have around.


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## jjlucas (Sep 9, 2014)

I had the same issue, and despite best efforts, I'm still left with several craters in the poured cement. They are 2-4" in diameter and only 0.5-1" deep. What would be the best / easiest way to patch these?

For my purposes, the patch doesn't have to look nice - it will be covered by a new 2x4 stud wall and drywall. I just want to prevent any structural or moisture issues (it is in my basement)


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

On factory floors we used a two part epoxy floor patch---those were exposed to heavy traffic-----for your issue? I would use a vinyl concrete patching compound--

You will find that as a powder in a small bucket--in Menards or Home Depot---


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## wkearney99 (Apr 8, 2009)

BigJim said:


> One strange thing I did a few years back was with a drimmel. I had a dozer and I had to take the track off to get to the bull gear in the final drive. I didn't have my grinder there so I use a metal cutting disk on my drimmel to cut the wield on the pin so I could get the track off, worked like a charm.


The trouble with the Dremel cutting discs is they tend to be very fragile. That and the screw holding them is tiny and VERY easy to lose when changing the disc. That and the disks tend to explosively disintegrate if you apply anything beyond a very light pressure. Yeah, they sell discs with a quick-change mandrel but they're seriously expensive compared to the bare discs. 

Contrast that against a 4" angle grinder. I've got one that's had a diamond wheel on it for ages. Cuts like buddah, even after I've seriously abused it with too much pressure. 

I do like both of the tools, but if I had to choose one I'd definitely pick the grinder.

With either of them, be SURE to wear eye and ear protection.


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## mnp13 (Jan 16, 2007)

wkearney99 said:


> the disks tend to explosively disintegrate if you apply anything beyond a very light pressure


:laughing:

Been there, done that!


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## jjlucas (Sep 9, 2014)

oh'mike said:


> -for your issue? I would use a vinyl concrete patching compound--
> 
> You will find that as a powder in a small bucket--in Menards or Home Depot---


Its funny - I looked at vinyl concrete patching compound before, but I passed it up because it said "fit for horizontal surfaces". After your comment I took a second look and found that there were special instructions for vertical applications. I guess it pays to ready the instructions 

Thanks for the advice!


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Or you just might leave them and adjust
your studs so that they don't hit them. On


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## jjlucas (Sep 9, 2014)

ront02769 said:


> Or you just might leave them and adjust
> your studs so that they don't hit them. On


Update: I did end up leaving several fasteners in and was planning to do just what you suggested - but then I started reading up on insulation 

Most sources I read seem to say that I need to put a vapor barrier right up against the concrete. The two main methods seem to be plastic sheeting or rigid foam - either of which would be impossible to install with these fasteners still in place. 

Do I really need the vapor barrier? if so, is there another method I should consider?

(Additional info: I'm in the upper midwest, so we have cold winters and warm summers. Also I'm only finishing half the basement if that matters)


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

When I build a stud wall in front of a foundation,I do not use a vapor barrier against the concrete---however,I do install the walls about an inch in from the concrete---

An insulation pro will have the best answer--you might want to start a new thread on that question---Mike---


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Concrete walls are not impervious to water/moisture. We want to keep the moisture moving, not settling on one place. If you build 2x4 bays, stuff it with fiber and let the moisture get in and settle down, you start smelling things.
If you don't want to seal the concrete with foam board, then you should with a vapor barrier.
There are rules about where the vp should go, depending on the climate. Concrete buried in ground is not part of the climate. It is more like a wet sponge sitting on a soap dish.
Sealing must be done in the floor/rim joist bays as well as plates sitting on the foundation.


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## jjlucas (Sep 9, 2014)

carpdad said:


> Sealing must be done in the floor/rim joist bays as well as plates sitting on the foundation.


Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what do you mean by "floor/rim joist bays"? I'm not familiar with that term.


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## mnp13 (Jan 16, 2007)

The joist bays are the little "caves" formed where your joists sit on your foundation.


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## jack45870 (Sep 17, 2014)

I think cutting disk is the best way to do that work


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

mike, where've you been, lad ? diamond blades are cheap - think we pay $5 on ebay for them,,, faster than the abrasives, too


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I just pulled a bunch this afternoon. Claw hammer worked just fine.


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