# Base molding



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

helpless handyman said:


> Hi guys, is MDF any good for base molding that is going to be painted white? Thanks. I am getting a good price on large quanity, and was just wondering if MDF wood be a good choice? All inputs are welcomed, Thanks again...


It's fine for using as painted trim, in fact, once it is up and painted, you can't tell the difference from wood. I wouldn't recommend it for damp areas (Kitchen/bath areas - more mopping, etc) because of it's strong ability to absorb moisture. 

The other main difference is that you really can't cope cut it. We usually just 45 degree cut - the inside corners for it, if we have to use it.

I'd say go for it.....


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks Atlantic Construction, what would you recommend instead of MDF? Don't like strong ability to absorb moisture, and no coping. Thanks


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

helpless handyman said:


> Thanks Atlantic Construction, what would you recommend instead of MDF? Thanks


Maybe I confused you? I was saying to go ahead and use it to save $$. Do a good paint job on it and you will be fine. 

I generally like to stick with Pre-primed wood baseboard because of the ability to cope cut the corners. I have used MDF when I have needed to and would use it, if I had a tight budget job (to save the customer money).

I have worked on brand new high end apartment complexes with rounded corners, 10 foot high ceilings, textured walls, ceramic tile, granite countertops...and wide MDF crown and base. 
Painted good, I didn't even realize it was MDF until it came time to match the trim....

So, that is why I say my vote is to go ahead and use the MDF.


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> It's fine for using as painted trim, in fact, once it is up and painted, you can't tell the difference from wood. I wouldn't recommend it for damp areas (Kitchen/bath areas - more mopping, etc) because of it's strong ability to absorb moisture.
> 
> The other main difference is that you really can't cope cut it. We usually just 45 degree cut - the inside corners for it, if we have to use it.
> 
> I'd say go for it.....


Granted it is more fragile than wood to cope, but I use a "scroll" blade in a jig saw without any problems.

Agree.. I never use MDf in a bath room or on a hard surface floor that will get mopped plenty, like the kitchen. Eventually the dampness will seep into the bottom edge.

I also do not use it for base in rooms that have outside corners, because they are just to fragile. Every bump of a vacuum leaves a large chunk missing. Most of the standard WM profiles are available in both MDf and primed finger jointed wood, so we use wood in areas with outside corners. MDF crown everywhere since it is above abuse.


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## helpless handyman (Jul 6, 2006)

Thanks *Alantic Construction* and *Troubleseeker*,I got the point. It's my home, so I will just go with the better stuff. Do it right the first time, this way I won't have to do it again. Thanks to all of you who responded, I get good info from you folks on this forum, Love it!!!:thumbup:


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## shapeshifter (Jan 10, 2007)

What is involved in coping molding or trim? How is it done?


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cope_cut


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

troubleseeker said:


> Granted it is more fragile than wood to cope, but I use a "scroll" blade in a jig saw without any problems.


Thanks for sharing your technique....


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Atlantic - Why do you say not to cope MDF? I am installing some now and have only made one cope cut so far (Will need about 12). Mitred will be easier and certainly faster but coped joints look nicer and are less likely to open up right?
So, to cope or not to cope.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Brik said:


> Atlantic - Why do you say not to cope MDF? I am installing some now and have only made one cope cut so far (Will need about 12). Mitred will be easier and certainly faster but coped joints look nicer and are less likely to open up right?
> So, to cope or not to cope.


I've had bad luck coping MDF base, but that was about (literally 18 years ago) maybe the materials have changed, maybe I didn't know what I was doing back then....? I have stayed away from it all these years as far as coping it for installations. If we have had no choice, but to use it, we have just 45'd it. 
.... If you say it can be done and look good, that's good enough for me.


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

Funny. I last used (before current project) MDF about 10 years ago and was not too fond of it. Using a pneumatic nailer I got mushrooms where I nailed. Sort of a pimple that needed trimmed off. Stuff I'm using now does not do that. Something has changed. I was pleasantly surprised at how easily and smoothly it coped.

Now, as for durability? Hmm


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## Darylh (Jan 2, 2006)

Up here MDF trim is changing over to ULTRA LIGHT (UL). A lot of guys in the lumber yard are calling it MDF but by far its not. As we know MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard and when you inject a nail it pinches out because there is no room for the nail. The Ultra light is not as dense and excepts nails no problem. I actually like this stuff and have been using the crowns made of this stuff. When using it in areas that are going to be moped 2 coats of oil based primer on all edges and 2 coats of finish paint seems to work just fine but I still like to use real wood for these area's.


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## motorcity man (Apr 1, 2008)

Can I make baseboadrs with a sheet of this?

By cutting into strips and then passing it on my router table to make a rounded top?

Will it clean up after so I can paint? or will it be messy with fibers sticking out.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

motorcity man said:


> Can I make baseboadrs with a sheet of this?
> 
> By cutting into strips and then passing it on my router table to make a rounded top?
> 
> Will it clean up after so I can paint? or will it be messy with fibers sticking out.


Yes. Tho, I would not use it in bathrooms and kitchen applications.


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## motorcity man (Apr 1, 2008)

I guess I have another question. I need to put a baseboard on one curved 
wall. could I put a bunch of cuts in the back side so that it would flex,
and use some wood filler to finish it. or is there a better way. 
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## motorcity man (Apr 1, 2008)

I made a mess on the last post. I need to replace baseboards throughout my house. as it only has the same 2" trim that is around door frames.
I want something about 4" . I think I will just buy it. I need a lot of it.


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