# luxaire/york 33109167000 furnace board replacement



## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Are you sure you didn't knock one of the low voltage wires loose to the outdoor unit.

The board has no control over the outdoor unit.

Since you wire one of the 2 wires from the outdoor to the C terminal, and the other to the Y/Y2 terminal with the wire from the thermostat.


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Are you sure you didn't knock one of the low voltage wires loose to the outdoor unit.
> 
> The board has no control over the outdoor unit.
> 
> Since you wire one of the 2 wires from the outdoor to the C terminal, and the other to the Y/Y2 terminal with the wire from the thermostat.


No, all wires are tight, and one thing I did not mention is that the new board shows a yellow 110 volt ("Medium-Low) wire coming from the furnace blower, which I do not have.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The board doesn't control the outdoor unit.

Connect the wire from the outdoor unit that goes to the Y/Y2 to the R terminal of the board. Turn power back on.
If the outdoor unit runs. Your thermostat is mesed up.

If it doesn't run. Your C terminal on teh furnace board may have a bad connection to the board.


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

beenthere said:


> The board doesn't control the outdoor unit.
> 
> Connect the wire from the outdoor unit that goes to the Y/Y2 to the R terminal of the board. Turn power back on.
> If the outdoor unit runs. Your thermostat is mesed up.
> ...


Couldn't I just measure the voltage across the C and R terminals, and see if we do in fact get 24 volts? And why does the manual say that during a call for cool, a circuite is created between the G, R, and Y (persumably the new Y/Y2) terminals?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

You can check voltage acroos R and C.

Because it does.
But only when the thermostat calls for cooling.

The indoor fan didn't run the first time, because you had the blower wire on the wrong blower tap.

When you moved that wire. You distrubed something that the outdoor unit doesn't run anymore.


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

Well, I did check out the wiring connections, and will do it again when I am up there tomorrow, but I really think it has something to do with the 110 volt terminals, whereby the installation instructions for the new board call for a yellow "MED-LOW" wire to be connected to the LO COOL terminal, and the Blue "MED-HI" wire to be connected to the "HEAT" terminal. (I have no yellow wire, so I suspect this connection is intended for 2-stage furnaces, whereas mine is a one-stage model.)

In the manual for the furnace, it says that you can just attach the black (HI) blower wire to both the "HI-COOL" and "HEAT" terminals if you want both the heating and the cooling fan speeds to be high. However, as I mentioned above the new board instructions show the Yellow wire connected to "LO-COOL" , the black wire connected to "HI-COOL" , and the Blue wire connected to "HEAT", while a fourth wire (Red) is parked on one of the "PARK" terminals.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The 110 volt has nothing to do with the outdoor unit running.

The board is an upgraded board, and is also used on newer furnaces that come with a 4 speed blower instead of the 3 speed blower your furnace came with.

Has nothing to do with weather or not your outdoor unit runs.


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

beenthere, I do appreciate your help, and I appreciate that this thread must be a bit frustrating for you. (Indeed, this whole experience with this $%*$#@ furnace has been very frustrating for me, as I cannot get a straight answer from either the techie's nor the local service people, and the furnace has been screwing up a lot (e.g., the pressure switch went in the middle of winter).

I will check the connections again tomorrow, and then try switching the 110 volt terminals back the way they were, to see if my AC unit goes on again (which would surprise the heck out of you, I guess).

Will you be on this forum tomorrow, so I can report back to you?

Thanks,

James


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

What time I can't say.

Recheck ALL low voltage connections a gain.
A wire could have broken inside its insulation, then it looks to be connected, but won't work because it broke inside.


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

OK, will do. Will also recheck the continuity of the wires to the Thermostat and out to the AC unit. I also have another Thermostat I can hook up, to make sure that is not the problem.


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## dac122 (Sep 5, 2008)

Alternatively, if your tstat energizes G during cooling, just disconnect Y and Y1 from the furnace board and make sure the Y terminal on your tstat runs all the way out to outdoor unit. Just disconnect yellows off the furnace board and throw a wire nut on it. It would not be unusual for Unitrary products and the board manufacturer to not know how it all works. I've experinced that before.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Its not a problem with the board. It was a miswire.

And probably a broken LV wire now.


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Its not a problem with the board. It was a miswire.
> 
> And probably a broken LV wire now.


What's an LV wire?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Low Voltage


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

dac122 said:


> Alternatively, if your tstat energizes G during cooling, just disconnect Y and Y1 from the furnace board and make sure the Y terminal on your tstat runs all the way out to outdoor unit. Just disconnect yellows off the furnace board and throw a wire nut on it. It would not be unusual for Unitrary products and the board manufacturer to not know how it all works. I've experinced that before.


 
I'm just leaving for the cottage now, but keep in mind this is a new board, which is not the same as the old board that originally came with the furnace. This new one is more universal, for multistage furnaces above my model, and it has two Y terminals, labelled "Y/Y2" and "Y1". (The old board only had one Y terminal.) On this new board, the Y1 showed no voltage, so the Y wire from the tstat was connected to the Y/Y2 terminal, which did in fact (a) show 24 volts between it and the C terminal, and (b) did energize the AC compressor (since both the tstat Y wire and the one wire from the AC unit were commonly connected to it). It was only when I moved the HV wire over from the "LO COOL" terminal to the "HI COOL" terminal (in order to get the furnace blower going) that the AC compressor stopped working. Now beenthere figures one of the LV wires is loose/broken, which I can easily check using simple continuity tests on all the wires. (But first I will check to see if I am still getting 24 volts from the various relevant terminals on the board itself.)

Thanks again, guys, for chiming in - I'm getting a lot farther with you than I am with the techies and the service people! (It's just too bad that the customer support for this company is so lousy, especially considering that my cottage is so far away from a major city. (I will never buy a York or Luxaire furnace again!)


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

Surprise! I connected the HV blower wire back to the "LO COOL" terminal and sure enough, twhen the tstat called for cool the AC compressor came on but no blower (just like before). So, I now believe that, unlike the case with the old board, you cannot simply connect the black (high speed) blower wire to both the "HEAT" and "HI COOL" terminals using a jumper.


More to come......


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

Well, the AC is now running. What I did was leave the HV black (Hi speed) blower wire connected to the HI COOL terminal, but I disconnected the (black HV wire) jumper that ran over to the HEAT terminal, and instead connected the blue HV (MED HI) wire to the HEAT terminal. Turned it on, and low and behold both the AC compressor and the blower came on.:thumbup:

So, CONTRARY to the instructions in the original furance installation guide (which of course pertained to the old board), you CANNOT connect both the HEAT and the HI COOL terminals to the same black (high speed) blower wire in order to get the same blower speeds for both functions. (Somehow, on the new board this disables the 24 V signal going out to the AC compressor relay.) So why the $%&#@ did it not say that on the installation instructions for the new board!? And why do these new instructions also tell you to connect a non-existant yellow blower wire to the LO COOL terminal?

Oh gee, maybe if I had just paid a furnace guy 9ABOUT $200 in travle time alone) to come out and do it, they would just know this because they are professionals! Maybe, but no one I talked to (including York/Luxaire techies) could tell me this on the phone, - the solution was so simple you would think someone would know. Not very impressive, and I am also not too optimistic about the future of this furnace, or the repair of future breakdowns, either (which WILL happen judging by the sorry reviews I have seen online for Luxaire furnaces).

Still have to recheck the heat function of course, but I'd be surprised if there is any problem.

Time to go on an ATV ride and forget about all of this.:laughing:

BTW, thanks for all the help, beenthere and dac122 - it kept me going!


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## check (Jul 9, 2009)

Furnace seems to still work OK, too - I suppose I can live with the MED HI blower speed on the heating cycle. (A bit of a concern since it gets 30 below here in the winter.) At least it will be less noisy!

Thanks again, guys! :thumbsup:


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