# Replaced Zone controller, no M2 terminal for dampers?



## HVACTECH96 (Oct 16, 2012)

The durodyne dampers wont work with the Honeywell board.Did the same type of change out for a friend of mine and had to replace dampers also.You can use a two wire spring open power closed damper or power open and power close three wiredamper.


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

You will need to configure the Honeywell Zone control for 2 wire operation and then connect the old Terminal M2 wire to R.

This diagram should help...


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## eelpout (Jul 9, 2013)

Well, something popped the transformer after a few hours (before I saw any of these replies). :huh: At the time it went, the VisionPro 8000's 35% auto circulate was running I think.

I had the damper M1 connected to M1 & M4 connected to M4 (open), the old M2 wasn't connected to anything. The transformer dying may be unrelated. It was a Duron Dyne 24v 40 VAC transformer, same rating as Honeywell supplies so not sure what happened there. I did read elsewhere that hooking up the Duro Dyne's wrong can fry transformers.

Hmm, so we think their damper's should be able to work with the HZ322? So M1 stays where it is, put the old M2 directly on the transformer and M4 to M4 (Open) on the zone panel? OK, I'll try that when I get a new transformer in.

Thanks!


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## Houston204 (Oct 18, 2009)

I ran into this on a construction job a few months ago on a "beeper" call.
I didn't think that the durodyne would work with a Honeywell 3 zone control at the time either, and I had no literature for the dampers.

My shop located this literature and had a tech successfully connect this setup the following day.


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## eelpout (Jul 9, 2013)

Well, replaced the transformer with Honeywell's own and it looks like what made the smell last week was the HZ322 itself. There is a burning circuit smell coming from it when it's connected to power and no indicators come on. Rats. 

Anyone run across this before? Was working great for several hours last week and then it suddenly died like this. Could be some oddness with the dampers since they weren't wired 100% correctly (though I will say, the main R wasn't even connected). 

Like I said earlier the only thing that was out of the ordinary was I was running one of the VP 8000 thermostats with the Auto Circulate fan option at the time it died.

Edit: I opened the HZ322 up and sure enough, something popped. Here's a pic of the popped component. Not sure what it is ( a cap? ) but it's right at the power terminals, which are to the left of it. I guess I'll talk to Honeywell about it, but I'm sure they'll say it was the DIY-er's error.

Strange that the HZ322 doesn't have anything to protect itself.


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## eelpout (Jul 9, 2013)

BTW, the 24v transformer did blow too, so I'm guessing that it took out the HZ322 or visa versa.


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## fy171 (Aug 3, 2010)

looks like a diode


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## eelpout (Jul 9, 2013)

fy171 said:


> looks like a diode


Yep, I think you're right.

I haven't heard back from Honeywell yet, but I think they're going to tell me a 24 VAC transformer blowing and harming their equipment isn't their fault. Still would like to know what happened exactly, but probably will never figure it out.

Anyway, when I replace the HZ322, I'll put a circuit breaker between it and the new transformer to help this not happening again. Probably a 4 amp.

Do people commonly put a CB or resettable fuse between zone panels and transformers?


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## eelpout (Jul 9, 2013)

Honeywell got back to me. 

First, they were annoyed that places like Amazon sell zone panels to non-trade individuals, that was obvious. 

they said they had never encountered a panel go like that. since the transformer went too, they're assuming there was a surge which overloaded the panel's power circuit. they didn't think it could have been the damper being wired wrong as the HZ series has protection and detection capabilities for that and will notify the installer of shorts through the LEDs. I never saw such indication.

best guess is the old Duro Dyne transformer didn't handle the load well, even though its rating stated it should have been fine.

on my new panel (i'm out of pocket for both ) i'll wire in a 4 amp CB for protection.


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## eelpout (Jul 9, 2013)

Houston204 said:


> I ran into this on a construction job a few months ago on a "beeper" call.
> I didn't think that the durodyne would work with a Honeywell 3 zone control at the time either, and I had no literature for the dampers.
> 
> My shop located this literature and had a tech successfully connect this setup the following day.


thanks again for directing me to the correct schematic, old DuroZone dampers work like a champ with the (replaced) TrueZone. :thumbsup:


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## Mooring10 (Nov 21, 2014)

*Honeywell Zone Board with Durzone Board and Dampers*

Help--I'm doing all the research for my HVAC contractor.

I have a Bryant Plus 90i 2-stage gas furnace and electric A/C connected to a DuroZone DMX-SW board setup with 2 zones and 3 DuroDyne K 01192 and DuroDyne J 34222 dampers. It is controlled with two battery operated White-Rogers programmable thermostats. I often run just the fan to circulate air to even temperatures.

I want to install two Honeywell RTH8580WF thermostats-- or some kind of internet controller with smartphone access to settings.

Honeywell says I need a new zone board, they suggested one that looks like it's only for single stage heat.

My contractor doesn't think the DuroZone dampers will work with a new Honeywell board. He is also unsure the DuroZone board will work with the Honeywell Wifi thermostat.

I just want a Wifi solution where I don't have to pay for the contractor to experiment until he gives up without solving it. I'm not an electrical engineer, but it seems there should be a solution to this that is not very expensive.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

You will have to change out the zoning board to the honeywell truezone hz322 and follow the instructions above to get it to work the Duro dampers. As for wireless and wifi operation, I know the honeywell prestige 2 iaq system will work with the hz322 board. It is an internet accessible stat and handles multistage systems and does mate up with the hz322
Bare in mind however that it will not be a cheap solution.


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## NEWFOZ (Nov 30, 2016)

Sorry for posting to such an old thread, but I'm new and can't send a private message.

Eeelpout, Hello. I'm new to the forum, and was hoping you could spend a few minutes to advise me based on your previous posts. I purchased a couple of Nest thermostats (Black Friday deals) and I'm now replacing my DuroZone controller with an HZ311. I don't want to run into the same issues you encountered, and was hoping you could give me some advice on wiring the dampers. There are three motorized dampers on each zone, and I have the DuroZone 40VA transformer.

I should receive the HZ311 in a day or two. Any chance you could share a photo or two of the wiring at the controller and damper motor to make sure I don't screw it up?

Thanks for the consideration,

Dan


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

NEWFOZ said:


> Sorry for posting to such an old thread, but I'm new and can't send a private message.
> 
> Eeelpout, Hello. I'm new to the forum, and was hoping you could spend a few minutes to advise me based on your previous posts. I purchased a couple of Nest thermostats (Black Friday deals) and I'm now replacing my DuroZone controller with an HZ311. I don't want to run into the same issues you encountered, and was hoping you could give me some advice on wiring the dampers. There are three motorized dampers on each zone, and I have the DuroZone 40VA transformer.
> 
> ...


The OP isn't likely active anymore. We can however help you in your own thread.... When we wake up, lol. 

The wiring should be easy as pie as long as you mark all your wires before starting. 

Cheers!


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## NEWFOZ (Nov 30, 2016)

Mmmm. I like pie.

Thanks for the quick reply. I will start a new post as soon as I receive the HZ311 (should be today). I'm fairly handy, but wiring's not my bag. I want to make sure I don't fry anything like the OP did. I have a 40VA transformer, the board takes ~7VA, and the motors (6 in total for both zones, 4W each) total 24Watts. I think I should be OK, but really value the experience of others. 

Thanks again,

Dan


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## PStew67 (Dec 13, 2016)

NEWFOZ,

Looking to do the same DuroZone to TrueZone conversion since ecobee doesnt seem compatible with DuroZone. How did conversion go, any advice? Thanks

Stew


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## NEWFOZ (Nov 30, 2016)

Stew,

It was a piece of cake. I used the wiring diagram posted earlier in this thread to tie the #2 terminal from the Durozone motors to the 24VAC white wire (labeled "R" from the transformer). My Durozone damper actuators are the motor type; I think the wiring is different if they are the spring type.

Anyway, one nice feature of the HZ311 is that there is room for two wires at each terminal. So, at the 24VAC input, I have one of the "R" wires for the power input to the board, and another short length of wire runs out into a wire nut where all the "2" terminals from the damper motors come together.

I did it one step at a time. I removed the Durozone controller and old thermostats. I then connected the HZ311 to the furnace board and added one "nest". I checked its operation without wiring any zone motors in. I then added my second "nest". I checked that it worked. Then I added the dampers in and ensured that the right zone called for the right dampers to open/close. It really was much easier than I thought. Let me know if you have any questions.

Foz


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## MarkGM (Nov 27, 2020)

@NEWFOZ

Is this setup still working for you? I plan on swapping out a Durozone SMZ-AC panel with a Honeywell HZ311 or HZ322 Panel to connect to Durozone Dampers and plan to connect to two nest thermosets. It looks like the cheaper HZ311 worked out for you. Can you share pictures of your HZ311 panel setup? 

I found this thread with more HZ311 info:








Nest with Honeywell HZ311


To begin I have a home with a Honeywell HZ311 Controller, single stage heat and cooling. The system has three dampers with zone controlling for the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floor. As a result I have three separate Thermostats (Honeywell Battery Powered). My goal is to install a NEST Thermostat for one...




www.diychatroom.com





I noticed the Dampers on the HZ311 are labeled M1, M4, M6. The diagram above shows 1, 2, 4, and 3 labels.

Which wires are you using to connect to your Nest thermosets from the HZ311? Do you have a C Wire running from the HZ311 to each Nest?

Thanks in advance for sharing!


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

The other posters haven't been active for 3 years. Please start your own thread for personalized help. 

The HZ311 should be fine. I don't personally like nest thermostats. If you must use them, make sure that you use a common wire for each nest. 

Cheers!


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