# Stone Foundation with large gaps and cracks



## Knucklez

well, they don't have anything at the local HD that can help..


----------



## southeastmason

Just patching with cement will not solve your problem. The foundation is unstable. I would replace foundation. In your location packing a large hole such as that would create more problems. The problem is with the footing.


----------



## Shamus

I agree! 

Been there, done that. The only solution that will work is to replace it, including the footer.


----------



## 4just1don

let me make a WILD A** 'guess' here. the side that is coated over(like surewall or similiar) 'PROBABLY' looked the very same and THATS why it was coated or surewalled. "IF" and ONLY if this wall isnt moving ANY 'more'(defined OLD movement),,,coating it after filling the gaps MAY fix it,,,or if continual movement is occuring,,you would have to take it out and replace,,,including footing as already said. So you 'want' to gamble and temp fix it for now??OR take it out,spend tons of bucks, and fix it right first time?? You are only one to answer these questions. TIME will tell which way is RIGHT!!!


----------



## yesitsconcrete

certainly looks rough, doesn't it,,, you'll probably be best served by jacking up the house 1/2" & replacing original stone w/new conc footer/walls,,, 1st get an idea of how much present movement there is along w/how far its moved out of line,,, the 2nd's easy w/4' level, line level, & stringline,,, the 1st requires some simple mortar or plaster patching then watch for cracking.


----------



## Knucklez

i think it is an old crack.

the rest of the foundation looks OK. i parged it a few years ago and there was no damage like that anywhere else. 

i would like to fix this properly, before the deck gets installed next year and removes easy access.

my course of action:

i fill it with cement, parge outer surface and hope for the best. evaluate after winter (8 months from now) and see if there has been any movement.

if movement, then...

can you go into detail about this repair?


----------



## Knucklez

i mean, the first repair. where i was planning on simply filling the hole(s) with stones and cement.

what type of cement? how can i "inject" the cement into the cracks?


----------



## yesitsconcrete

using some solid stone, bagg'd mortar mix, & margin trowel, start filling it,,, you'd want to saturate the existing stone/mortar 1st so their dryness wouldn't suck out the wtr from the patch mortar,,, think you've got the right idea.

bear in mind this may be only temp so leave some sort of access otherwise you'll become expert at these repairs on your belly :laughing: which is no fun at all especially in hot, muggy weather,,, don't ask me how i know this - i just know.


----------



## Knucklez

thx for giving me the confidence to continue. a big crack like that can be scary.

by saturate the stone, do you mean spritz it with a water bottle first?


----------



## HandyPete

wait a sec...

The problem you have is major but it can be fixed. If you go to a big box store, that'll be your first mistake. If you go by why I or others here say, it'll be the second one.

Get in touch with a pro, contact Sitka or Mapei and have a good talk with the tech reps.

I'm not a pro but, your probably going to end up using a high density, low shrinkage, grouting compound. I've seen it applied using a grout bag which is just like frosting a cake. The parging if done properly, will be "hi-tech" also.

Specialty companies like Sitka and Mapei cannot take the risks by selling their products in hardware stores. It takes too much technical support to get the right product for the right job! (like in your case)

The foundation can be saved. You might also consider having it shot on the inside with foam.

-peter


----------



## ccarlisle

Yup, I'd give a shout to "Sika" too. :yes:


----------



## yesitsconcrete

pete's makes a good point but apron stores don't even sell grout for conc, only floors/tile.

'sika' is a well-respected manufacturer of specialty cements, coatings, sealants, etc - mapei better known for leveling compounds,,, having used both, being a pro, & reading your degree of understanding/approach/patience, my words stand.

what's the worst that can happen - you waste a day finding out you weren't so smart ??? to me, that's a good bet.

to the naysayers who'll scoff, that means keep your level & plumb handy & ck the house every day.

ps - foam is not a structural material in this instance.


----------



## Knucklez

ok, i used quickrite mortar mix and stuffed the cracks best i could. i will parge over top and then wait out the winter season see how it holds. 

i'll put line marks on the stone and measure out from stationary wall and keep track of its movement over the next few months.

i'm 80% confident that a pro will be here next spring 

Knucklez


----------



## What have I done

Hey Knuckelz
Yet another repair I have searched out that I found you have already encountered.

How did your quickcrete repair hold up over the winter? What do you or others recomend after filling in the voids. Is their a cementous product for skimming over the surface from the interior?

jim


----------



## Knucklez

ya.. this old house has me full time job fix'n stuff 

hey, it held up great. no micro cracks or anything. and my kitchen was MUCH warmer this past winter, and the mice were .. dunno .. outside i guess.  i did not parge it yet as i wanted to see if the mortar held up on its own before i cover it. 


when i excavate my basement i'll take a more serious look at it.. well, a structural engineer will - not me. 

i did not research any interior solutions as in my case there was just a crawl space on the other side (i.e. "the cat hole") that nobody wants to go into .. believe me.

Knucklez


----------



## Rayburn

There is a company in Ohio, called Airplaco that makes a "Handy Grout" manual mortar/ grout pump that fits into a bucket and pumps material by a hand pump , like an old well pump handle, It has a 6ft hose and @ 200 psi. Problem is cost, @ $1,000. I looked to rent one in central Indiana, no one has it. I may have to go to Indianapolis to find. I too have a stone foundation and due to a recent infestation of rats/mice, several "holes" and "cracks" need to be filled. Good Luck, Ray


----------



## rmarion

Have aTyndal stone foundation. Inside has gap about 4 inches X 8 inches X 14 inches near window frame. From what I read: 1) clean out well 2) spritz with water 3)coat with bonding agent 4) insert small stones and premixed mortar mix from hardware store with some bonding agent added 5) apply parge top coat after dry and seems OK

Do I have it right? Most pros don't want to be bothered with such a small job.


----------



## Canarywood1

The easy way is polyurethane injection if it's not a structural problem, epoxy if it is, this may help.

http://www.emecole.com/pages/products-for-do-it-yourselfers.html#foundation


----------

