# Mold in Basement



## Willie5566 (Dec 12, 2006)

Does this look like mold?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/DSCF0083.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/Willie_6/DSCF0082.jpg

How do I remove it?


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

It looks like mildew
First you must kill it
Kill it good and dead

Spray X-14 (available at the hardware store or paint shop), or a 50/50 bleach/water on it, let it sit, then scrub it off and rinse
If there's any stains left, they can be sealed in with paint (a white-pigmented shellac is usually the best sealant) if needed

The moisture problem must be fixed or it will probably show up again


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## Willie5566 (Dec 12, 2006)

slickshift said:


> It looks like mildew
> First you must kill it
> Kill it good and dead
> 
> ...


I like the sound of this. I was expecting a much tougher solution. I do have water come in near the base of the wall when we get heavy rains. DO you think this would cause mildew on the walls or do you think I need to deal with seepage in the walls as well.


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## sheeter (Jan 14, 2007)

It does look like mildew. If you have a water infiltration problem, looking at what appears to be a CMU wall, you would see calcium and lime leaching out of the wall. Take a closer look to see if their is a white crusty like substance on the wall. If you do, then you will need to consider a means to drain the water away from the exterior of the wall. Gutters and downspouts would help control the water around the walls.


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## Willie5566 (Dec 12, 2006)

I am glad it is just mildew. Looks like I will be doing some waterproofing in the spring.


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## MoldBuster (Jan 18, 2007)

It may not be mold (or Mildew...they are the same thing, different names). It may be mineral leaching thru the wall joints (you can get stains from the minerals in the water depending on the composition of the soil outside). You see this all the time with concrete leaks. It is possible to get mold on block walls or concrete, but there must be some form of organic material (food) for it to grow. It is a good idea to stop this since it can weaken the structure. If it is mold/mildew, then you want to use a moldicide to kill it. 

X-14 is NOT...repeat...NOT an EPA registered fungicide. Their mildew stain remover is designed to remove the stain...but NOT the mildew. You'll see it says it prevents mildew stains for up to 2 weeks...this means it doesn't kill the organism, just wipes off the surface flora layer without eliminating the hyphae (roots). You want an EPA Registered fungicide when you kill mold/mildew. Bleach (the ingredient in X-14 mildew stain remover) is not an effective mold killer for porous surfaces. Simply put, sodium hypochlorite will not penetrate a porious surface. It evaporates leaving the other major ingredient...water. Mold grows inside materials unless it is living on a surface organic layer (dirt, etc.) on a non-porous surface. This is why X-14 says it will remove the stains for 2 weeks...the organism will come right back.


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## Willie5566 (Dec 12, 2006)

MoldBuster said:


> It may not be mold (or Mildew...they are the same thing, different names). It may be mineral leaching thru the wall joints (you can get stains from the minerals in the water depending on the composition of the soil outside). You see this all the time with concrete leaks. It is possible to get mold on block walls or concrete, but there must be some form of organic material (food) for it to grow. It is a good idea to stop this since it can weaken the structure. If it is mold/mildew, then you want to use a moldicide to kill it.
> 
> X-14 is NOT...repeat...NOT an EPA registered fungicide. Their mildew stain remover is designed to remove the stain...but NOT the mildew. You'll see it says it prevents mildew stains for up to 2 weeks...this means it doesn't kill the organism, just wipes off the surface flora layer without eliminating the hyphae (roots). You want an EPA Registered fungicide when you kill mold/mildew. Bleach (the ingredient in X-14 mildew stain remover) is not an effective mold killer for porous surfaces. Simply put, sodium hypochlorite will not penetrate a porious surface. It evaporates leaving the other major ingredient...water. Mold grows inside materials unless it is living on a surface organic layer (dirt, etc.) on a non-porous surface. This is why X-14 says it will remove the stains for 2 weeks...the organism will come right back.


 
Good info, but you did not recommend a fungicide to use in place of x-14. What can I use?


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

For a real solution, whatever you use should kill the mold AND THE SPORES. If not, you can be haunted again.


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## Willie5566 (Dec 12, 2006)

concretemasonry said:


> For a real solution, whatever you use should kill the mold AND THE SPORES. If not, you can be haunted again.


Do you know of anything that will do that?


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

I am not an expert on mold if you really want to go deep into the subject. I have worked with the laboratories and the experts that get involved in major problems without selling a proprietary product or service.

I know it is relatively easy to kill mold. I think fire will kill the spores, but time does not. There are some methods that CLAIM to kill the spores, but I am not aware of the specific products. Removal of spores can be very difficult since you do not just wash or vacuum.

The surest way after killing the mold is to make sure you do not have one of the things necessary for mold growth - moisture.


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## MoldBuster (Jan 18, 2007)

Willie5566 said:


> Good info, but you did not recommend a fungicide to use in place of x-14. What can I use?


Shockwave is a good fungicide/moldicide. It comes in premix as well as concentrate. 

Most good fungicides will also kill the spores, but if you have a big infestation, you do want to reduce the spore levels down to normal background levels either by using airflow or a good HEPA system...or both. It is literally impossible to get rid of all mold spores...just opening the door lets them in...but killing an infestation and then controlling the moisture is necessary in any remediation. In a basement, doing proper sealing in the walls, floor and joint is often necessary to control the moisture coming into the area. Having air exchange thru the basement is also a very good idea. For those areas that are inevitably damp or have damp air exchange (crawlspaces, attics, bathrooms and exterior wall sheathing), we recommend a coating for wood products that once properly applied is guaranteed by the manufacturer to prevent any growth for a minimum of 25 years (and yes, they have numerous recognized independent lab tests to prove it).


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## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Just to clarify, EPA registered fungicide or not, I have been using X-14 and the bleach/water mix in a professional capacity (int/ext house paint prep) for killing mold and mildew for decades
Both work very well in killing mold/mildew


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## MoldBuster (Jan 18, 2007)

slickshift said:


> Just to clarify, EPA registered fungicide or not, I have been using X-14 and the bleach/water mix in a professional capacity (int/ext house paint prep) for killing mold and mildew for decades
> Both work very well in killing mold/mildew


Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) does NOT kill mold on a porous surface. That is basic chemistry. There are numerous independent scientific studies that show this to be the case including one from the Oregon Dept of Wood Science. If it did, it would be registered as a fungicide with the EPA and you will not find an EPA reg number. If bleach/X-14 really did kill mold, trust me, the chemical companies would be shouting this off the rooftops. Read the label and the advertisement. X-14 says it removes mildew STAINS for two weeks...that is right in their advertisement on their website (quote..."With new X-14, simply spray problem mildew and watch those mildew stains quickly disappear and stay away for up to 2 weeks!"). Look at the literature...nowhere does it say it permanently kills mold or mildew...only that it removes the stains (meaning it wipes off the surface flora). If you do this, you are taking a chance every time and setting yourself up for a lawsuit. I come in and do treatments all the time for guys who did exactly this (sprayed it down with X-14 or Bleach then painted over it...particularly in apartments. Good fungicides are not only not inexpensive, they are less obnoxious so why not use them? Just from that alone...you should be using a fungicide. So forget all that...say I am wrong and it really does work...how about I save you a boatload of money and make you more profit? Okay...
X-14 Mikdew is bleach and Sodium Carbonate (it is right there on the MSDS from the website. If you buy it in bulk packs (4 gallons per pack) you are looking at $15 a gallon online. Say you got a great deal and paid $10 a gallon. Cool! 
I pay $0.60 a gallon making up 55 gallon drums of Fungicide using Fungicide concentrate...and I mix at a higher ratio than is recommended for a stronger product. It is non toxic (right on the MSDS), is non materials reactive (no corrosive elements), and EPA registered and certified to kill mold. There...now you can keep charging the same amount to your clients for materials and make way more profit. 
:whistling2:


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## Leikela (Dec 4, 2006)

While we're on the subject of mold, how does it grow out of a wall anyway like in a bathroom? I understand the moisture and steam from the shower is a breeding ground for mold but how does it penitrate paint? Is there a way to avoid this from happening to walls?


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## rm41400 (Feb 26, 2007)

MoldBuster said:


> Bleach (sodium hypochlorite) does NOT kill mold on a porous surface. That is basic chemistry. There are numerous independent scientific studies that show this to be the case including one from the Oregon Dept of Wood Science. If it did, it would be registered as a fungicide with the EPA and you will not find an EPA reg number. If bleach/X-14 really did kill mold, trust me, the chemical companies would be shouting this off the rooftops. Read the label and the advertisement. X-14 says it removes mildew STAINS for two weeks...that is right in their advertisement on their website (quote..."With new X-14, simply spray problem mildew and watch those mildew stains quickly disappear and stay away for up to 2 weeks!"). Look at the literature...nowhere does it say it permanently kills mold or mildew...only that it removes the stains (meaning it wipes off the surface flora). If you do this, you are taking a chance every time and setting yourself up for a lawsuit. I come in and do treatments all the time for guys who did exactly this (sprayed it down with X-14 or Bleach then painted over it...particularly in apartments. Good fungicides are not only not inexpensive, they are less obnoxious so why not use them? Just from that alone...you should be using a fungicide. So forget all that...say I am wrong and it really does work...how about I save you a boatload of money and make you more profit? Okay...
> X-14 Mikdew is bleach and Sodium Carbonate (it is right there on the MSDS from the website. If you buy it in bulk packs (4 gallons per pack) you are looking at $15 a gallon online. Say you got a great deal and paid $10 a gallon. Cool!
> I pay $0.60 a gallon making up 55 gallon drums of Fungicide using Fungicide concentrate...and I mix at a higher ratio than is recommended for a stronger product. It is non toxic (right on the MSDS), is non materials reactive (no corrosive elements), and EPA registered and certified to kill mold. There...now you can keep charging the same amount to your clients for materials and make way more profit.
> :whistling2:


 
Where can I get the Fungicide again? Thanks!


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## Willie5566 (Dec 12, 2006)

Just do a web search for shock wave or click on this link:

http://www.4lots.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=993


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## rm41400 (Feb 26, 2007)

thanks for the link.


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

official link: http://fiberlock.com/

hey MOLDBUSTER, 
what's your method for treatment? Do you do multiple treatments, two/three times, letting dry in between? Do you use any other products?

I think I'm going to give this stuff a shot.


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

found it for $35 + shipping
http://www.emssales.net/productdetail.aspx?ID=41

makes 64 gallons of solutions, we'll see if it works...


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## jcro3969 (Nov 7, 2011)

Are shock level ozone generators a valid and reliable method to wipe out mold in a finished basement?


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

No. All the mold covered drywall, studs, etc... have to be removed and replaced.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Are shock level ozone generators a valid and reliable method to wipe out mold in a finished basement? 

No. Ozone generators have not been shown to be particularly effective in mold remediation. Not that ozone won't kill mold, but getting it to the right place and keeping it in place for a long enough dwell time is almost impossible with completely tenting the structure making it highly impractical.

No. All the mold covered drywall, studs, etc... have to be removed and replaced.

Moldy drywall needs to be replaced along with any other porous material that is practical to replace. Wall studs and framing are problematic to replace and if in otherwise good condition, can be treated in place.


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