# Dishwasher installation is supposed to be easier than this ...



## jacoite (Sep 13, 2009)

So, I took out my old, awful dishwasher, and am replacing it with a nice, new one.

I wasn't prepared, however, to need new hoses for the new appliance. You've find the picture that I'll attempt to attach that there is a lazy Susan cabinet between my dishwasher and sink. It would seem easy enough to run the hoses, but here's what I'm dealing with:

-I currently have a rubber water input hose. The lady at Sears sold me a new, braided metal one, saying that new machines connect differently, whatever that means. I figure it's best to replace the rubber to avoid a blowout, anyway. The new hose is only 8' long, though, so I may need to get a longer one.
-I tried to pry out the baseboard, only to find that the piece closer to the dishwasher is almost completely rotten, and I can't figure out how to get out the strong part of it.
-If you look in the area where I pried out nasty, rotten baseboard, you can see the other piece (the one closer under the sink), going probably another foot under the lazy Susan.
-I tried prying off the the interior of the dishwasher space, next to the lazy Susan, only to find plywood behind it, that seems to be structural - at least very difficult to move.
-The drain hose is hooked (as in a 'u') such that it would be difficult to connect it into the dishwasher drain pipe, which runs straight out the back. It also runs directly into the side of the garbage disposal, rather than being attached to the underside of sink, so as to avoid water going back into the appliance.

I've done basic electric and plumbing in my home, and figured this would be no sweat ... 

Any and all council would be appreciated ... I apologize for the lengthy, probably difficult to understand, description.

-Matt


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## jacoite (Sep 13, 2009)




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## jacoite (Sep 13, 2009)

I may actually have an idea ... I'm quite open to ANYTHING you'd like to offer, but I'm going to try something, and get back to the thread. Have to wait until someone can watch my kids.


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## Mike Swearingen (Mar 15, 2005)

Matt,
You can hook those flex stainless steel hoses together with an adapter to make up the distance from the dw drain connection to your disposal AND also for the hot water supply. (I only use stainless steel flex hoses on my appliances for blowout safety. You still loop the drain hose over the dw.)
If you don't have an airgap on top of the sink, now would be a good time to install one if you want.
I also would install a shut-off valve to hook the hot water supply hose to.
Most all dw hookups are different.
Good luck!
Mike


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## jacoite (Sep 13, 2009)

Thanks, Mike.

Point taken on the airgap ... I'll attend to that.

The situation is now under control. The only remaining issue is that I need to obtain feet for the thing ... I guess they regretted to include them on a clearance item.

The only point of the project that I'm not satisfied with is the drain, which, as Mike pointed out, would benefit from an airgap, and also, I ended up slapping two hoses together (the old rubber one, and the plastic one included with the washer). I imagine I might get some food entrapment in there, but I guess I'll cross that bridge if we're not draining properly.

Thanks!


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

i couldn't open your picture but from what you said i assume the d/w is more than 6' away from your sink [you need about 2' of fill line under d/w]. can you go to basement to connect to fill line-run 1/2 copper with shutoff valve-close to flex connector coming through floor [in exposed area]. don't use 3/8" on these new d/w. in any event connections and shut off should be in exposed area for service...if an air gap is not code for you;don't put one in. it just one more thing to get blocked up. loop the drain hose under sink and you'll be fine. with rubber if there's any bends or if it's smaller than the plastic one-you'll have trouble eventualy.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

Deleted


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## jacoite (Sep 13, 2009)

Yeah, the rubber drain hose is actually larger than the plastic one that came with the machine. I looped the rubber hose higher than its input into the garbage disposal, so I should be okay there. So, I guess I'll just cross my fingers on the drain unless you guys think I'm in for big trouble. I actually can't use it currently, as Sears needs to come with a couple of parts - feet, which weren't on the machine when I purchased it (it was a floor model), and a wire that snapped, that is part of the door closure system. It was actually covered in duct tape - which I didn't notice until installation, and it snapped when I opened the door! Sears is taking care of it, though.


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