# Bearing Wall - Jack Studs



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

*NO! *Check table R502.5(2) as 2-2x10 support 1 floor will only span 3'10" - 4'11" w. 2-3 jacks each side; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_5_sec002_par021.htm

Gary


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## Tomperro (Feb 13, 2011)

Little confused on how to read those charts. 

The bearning wall is on the first floor and right under where the second floor joists overlapped or extended. For example, there is a joist running from the fron tof the house to where the wall was, this joist ends about 3 inches past the bearing wall and another joist continues to the back of the house and is nailed to the side of the original joist. Make sense?

Above is a bedroom and above the bedroom is the attic. The roof is a truss roof where the peak is parallel to the bearing wall. 

Are the 2 2x10's enough?

If it is enough, how many jack studs for the 8 foot span?

If not enough, can you tell me what I need, based off those charts?


Thanks.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The table shows; *20'* building width span (running with the trusses) = *2-2x12's *= 8'1" span #2 grade lumber.

* 28'* building width = 2-2x12's = NO (requires *3-2x12 *+ 8'10" #2 lumber)
Two jacks each side, solid blocking in floor below to beam or pier. You should get a *permit *for this, for the paper trail for your Homeowners Insurance carrier and when you go to sell the house.

Gary


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## Tomperro (Feb 13, 2011)

Is it too late to get a permit once the project is started?

Also, there is a header installed already, by the builder when the house was already built that supports a span of 12 feet, it is 3 2x12's, accoring to the chart, is this not correct?

T


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

I would get a permit even though you have started. Go to your building department and speak with them. You will not be the first to have done this. 

If I were buying your house and see the modifications I would be asking the permit questions. Sure is easy and better to answer yes in the future rather than having to dance or deal with it way after the fact.


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## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

GBR in WA said:


> You should get a *permit *for this, for the paper trail for your Homeowners Insurance carrier and when you go to sell the house.
> 
> Gary


Gary,

That's not the main reason why he should get a permit. He should be told why he needs permits especially for what he's doing.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

"lso, there is a header installed already, by the builder when the house was already built that supports a span of 12 feet, it is 3 2x12's, accoring to the chart, is this not correct?" -------- No, it is over-spanned for the loads.

I say again, get a permit----- because you are dealing with potentially thousands of pounds unsafely carried above you. 

You already removed the wall added a header and jacks--- now you want to remove some jacks to make a weak header even weaker........ Hence my first reason to get a permit might have prompted you more than loads involved....

If Joe C. (previous post) makes it unanimous, will you get a permit? 

Gary


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

Sure hope you have your point loads being carried down, that's why we get permits:whistling2:


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

In case you don't know what Chris said about point loads are, the weight carried by whatever jacks/header you use, needs to be carried down to the foundation.
The floor alone cannot carry this weight.


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## Tomperro (Feb 13, 2011)

so basically the header I have is not correct


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