# A/c Whip length



## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

Whats the max length or distance the disconnect can be from the outside A/C unit? I want to move my A/C over around 8 feet or so. I wanted to replace the whip with a longer one. 

Also to keep this clean was going to go threw a crawlspace vent (in water proof flex whip) over to the next vent then back out behind the unit. 

Do you guys see any problems with this? Thanks JIM


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## rgsgww (Jul 5, 2008)

The disconnect should be right next to the unit. Your telling me that you ran liquid tight from a disconnect, through some air ducts, and outside to your unit?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

I think he went through the foundation vents. I don't think that was a good idea.
The disconnect 8 feet from the unit is ok, but I would have strapped the flex along the foundation wall.


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## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

jbfan said:


> I think he went through the foundation vents. I don't think that was a good idea.
> The disconnect 8 feet from the unit is ok, but I would have strapped the flex along the foundation wall.


Well I haven't done anything yet, But yea you got the Idea. My house is a raised foundation with air vents all around the house (except the front). I could strap the flex to the foundation, but I'm trying to go for a cleaner look. Whats the Diff. if its straped to the inside or the outside of the foundation, except it looks ugly on the outside? 

I thought there might be some rule that the disconnect had to be 5-6 feet or something. I haven't got out the tape measure, but I orginally said 8 feet, but the more I think about it its probley more like 10 feet in a straight line of sight from the unit, Ofcourse my acutall flex line with bends an elevation change as such might be as long at 20 feet. 

Now does this sound ok?


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## theatretch85 (May 17, 2008)

What about the A/C compressor lines? Are these being extended/moved? Those would look just as ugly if not more than the electrical whip. If you have a crawl space below the house, why not just move the disconnect over to where the A/C is moving to and extend that line in the crawl space? Then you can have the disconnect right next to the A/C and not have to worry about how long the whip is.


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## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

theatretch85 said:


> What about the A/C compressor lines? Are these being extended/moved? Those would look just as ugly if not more than the electrical whip. If you have a crawl space below the house, why not just move the disconnect over to where the A/C is moving to and extend that line in the crawl space? Then you can have the disconnect right next to the A/C and not have to worry about how long the whip is.


I'm moving the unit to accomidate the a/c lines, which are not hooked up yet (more about this after). The disconnect comes from the wall. and goes into the whip. If I move the box closer (which I can) then I'm going to still have a junction box at min where the old box is (which is brand new cuz this is a new install), followed by conduit down into the crawlspace then back out and into a new box, then a whip. Which is all going to be the same as just running a longer whip, which a inline disconnect switch closer to the unit. 

The reason Im moving the lines is, cuz orginal plan was to run the a/c next to where the disconnect was just installed, and run the lines threw the crawlspace vent under the house and up threw an open wall into the attic where the unit was. Well with the wall open and after trying to fit the lineset threw it was just to many bends and hassles to get it threw without kinking it. 
So Plan A worked fine until the last step running the lineset. The new idea is just to run the linset up the outside of the wall under the eave into the attic and use a lineset cover to hide the lines. Well the unit now sits below a 9 foot wide window. So I either need to leave the unit where it is and run the lineset over then up, or move the unit over and run the lineset stright up then just deal with the electrical, which is already hooked up. I thought it would be eaiser and cleaner to rerun the electrical then the lineset, and 6" wide linset cover.


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## theatretch85 (May 17, 2008)

Are the walls still open? Can you get to the back of the disconnect in its current location? Do you know how the disconnect is fed power (From the attic, crawlspace, inside the wall/can't see it)? I would think it would be better to move the disconnect with the A/C unit, put in a J-Box of some sort at the current location and extend it through the crawl space to the new proposed location for the A/C. 

Personally I'd op for moving the disconnect with the A/C, but I understand that's not always easy to do. Depends on how the siding was finished and how they mounted the disconnect on the side of the house. 20 feet of cable sounds like an awful lot of cable to be going from the disconnect to the A/C unit even though it may only be 10 feet point to point.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

50 feet is the answer you are looking for. The code specifies a maximum distance of 50' and within sight from a disconnect.


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## theatretch85 (May 17, 2008)

InPhase277 said:


> 50 feet is the answer you are looking for. The code specifies a maximum distance of 50' and within sight from a disconnect.


50 feet? Wow I was not expecting that! Op should have no problems running it the 20 feet he needs to then!

I was just thinking for the Op, you could run the sealtite down along the ground where it won't be seen since its sealed anyway and shouldn't be getting any water entering the flexible whip. Then you don't have to bother moving the disconnect and everything can stay on the outside of the house and out of sight (not go through some crawlspace vents).


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## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

InPhase277 said:


> 50 feet is the answer you are looking for. The code specifies a maximum distance of 50' and within sight from a disconnect.


Thanks. Your always a big help. 
This is what I have been looking for. I have my heater up and running nicley and been lazy. Now before it gets to late I need to run my lines and get the a/c up and running. Thanks again. JIM


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## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

Well went out with an acutal tape measure today. I'm moving the unit over 6ft. 
Its 9ft from switch to the side of the unit. Nothing in the way and a striaght line of sight. 
I need to buy 15ft of 3/4" liquid tight and I'll probley cut it down a bit. So I don't think it seems to crazy. Its not being inspected, but I dont want to do things way out of line either. Thanks JIM


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## rgsgww (Jul 5, 2008)

Use thwn in the liquidtight.


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## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

I think the wire I have locally is dual rated. Also the orginal 6ft premade whip I had THHN in it.


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## NolaTigaBait (Mar 9, 2009)

theatretch85 said:


> 50 feet? Wow I was not expecting that! Op should have no problems running it the 20 feet he needs to then!
> 
> I was just thinking for the Op, you could run the sealtite down along the ground where it won't be seen since its sealed anyway and shouldn't be getting any water entering the flexible whip. Then you don't have to bother moving the disconnect and everything can stay on the outside of the house and out of sight (not go through some crawlspace vents).


i thought you have been doind electrical work since you were 14?...how old are you?


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## theatretch85 (May 17, 2008)

NolaTigaBait said:


> i thought you have been doind electrical work since you were 14?...how old are you?


Why does it matter? I was simply surprised that 50 feet was the allowable distance for a disconnect on a piece of equipment. I was under the impression it had to be a lot closer to the equipment than that.


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## NolaTigaBait (Mar 9, 2009)

theatretch85 said:


> Why does it matter? I was simply surprised that 50 feet was the allowable distance for a disconnect on a piece of equipment. I was under the impression it had to be a lot closer to the equipment than that.


i just can't help myself, i'm just a nice guy


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Why not use conduit to the disconnect, then flex from the disconnect to the AC condenser unit. That would look much better inside or outside. While what you propose is compliant, it is not what flexible conduit is intended for.


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## NolaTigaBait (Mar 9, 2009)

J. V. said:


> Why not use conduit to the disconnect, then flex from the disconnect to the AC condenser unit. That would look much better inside or outside. While what you propose is compliant, it is not what flexible conduit is intended for.


then he's have to hire an electrician...that would cost money, so he'll run 800 feet of carflex...he looks like garbage...but it works:thumbsup:


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## theatretch85 (May 17, 2008)

NolaTigaBait said:


> then he's have to hire an electrician...that would cost money, so he'll run 800 feet of carflex...he looks like garbage...but it works:thumbsup:


Nola, what's with all the attacks on everyone trying to DIY their own electrical work? Do you honestly believe that no homeowner is capable of doing their own electrical work unless they happen to also be an electrician? Many people can do just as good of work as electricians and be fully code compliant without ever having to call an electrician. Just because the work JV was talking about involves conduit doesn't mean a Homeowner can't install it.


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## NolaTigaBait (Mar 9, 2009)

theatretch85 said:


> Nola, what's with all the attacks on everyone trying to DIY their own electrical work? Do you honestly believe that no homeowner is capable of doing their own electrical work unless they happen to also be an electrician? Many people can do just as good of work as electricians and be fully code compliant without ever having to call an electrician. Just because the work JV was talking about involves conduit doesn't mean a Homeowner can't install it.


hey you're right!....but, i've NEVER seen a screw it up yourselfer do a nice job...they'll use pvc and it will be sagging after a month!....it's not a personal attack, it's truth, if they were any good at it they would make a living out of it....i'm sorry i don't believe that "many" people can do just as good of work as electricians....sorry, you can't really believe this either....can you?


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## daxinarian (Jul 9, 2008)

NolaTigaBait,
Did it ever occur to you that the reason you don't see any "Nice" DIY jobs is because they don't need to be fixed (hence you don't get called to fix them?) Kinda like a Dr saying everyone is sick because he never sees any healthy patients.


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## NolaTigaBait (Mar 9, 2009)

daxinarian said:


> NolaTigaBait,
> Did it ever occur to you that the reason you don't see any "Nice" DIY jobs is because they don't need to be fixed (hence you don't get called to fix them?) Kinda like a Dr saying everyone is sick because he never sees any healthy patients.


pppfffffffffffffffffffffffffff hahahahahahahhahahahah...you diyers are funny...man, thats the funniest thing i've heard in a while...you just made my day


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## rgsgww (Jul 5, 2008)

They get fixed after the homeowner leaves, unless the DIYer does a good job...which can happen. Take a look a Jamiedolan's work for example


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## integlikewhoa (Dec 31, 2007)

This thread is going no where. Thanks for all that helped.


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## rgsgww (Jul 5, 2008)

integlikewhoa said:


> This thread is going no where. Thanks for all that helped.



lol, yeah, sometimes threads go off topic fast.

Your welcome, glad to help out.


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