# Roper Electric Oven Range Problem



## AandPDan (Mar 27, 2011)

You have a problem with the power to the range. I don't think the range itself is the problem.

It should show:
red-black 240v
red-white 120v
black-white 120v

Since you are measuring power at the outlet, check it at the circuit breaker. It could be the breaker failed or you have a loose connection there. You may have a loose connection at the outlet too.


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## mcnutty (Jul 4, 2011)

AandPDan said:


> You have a problem with the power to the range. I don't think the range itself is the problem.
> 
> It should show:
> red-black 240v
> ...


thanks for the reply, that's what I suspected. But that still didn't explain the "burner element wire in, red-black shirt circuit" problem. 

Here's a recap of the problem that has been puzzling me: 

I checked the infinite switch label. It does have a "240v, 4.4-5.8A" mark on it. Right now, I am measuring only 107v between the red-blue. But once the switch is turned on, and the element is put in, I would measure 0 voltage between red-black. 

does it mean a 107v power input will somehow short circuit the switch? why is it only happen when the surface burner is connected?


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

appliance repair 101, always check incoming voltage. You could have saved youself a whole day of frustration.


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## AandPDan (Mar 27, 2011)

Fix the power problem. You should not be showing 10 volts between the black and white.

This is not an appliance issue, or likely wasn't before.


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## mcnutty (Jul 4, 2011)

AandPDan said:


> Fix the power problem. You should not be showing 10 volts between the black and white.
> 
> This is not an appliance issue, or likely wasn't before.


AandPDan & Hardwareman: 

thanks very much for your help and advice. I have some good news to report. I checked the circuit breaker, it turned out one of them has jumped. I turned it back on, and voila, the oven is working again. So it is a power problem, as everyone has suggested. 

Something I learned (again) from this little adventure: 

1) 120-208Vac appliances will only take the 2 phases 208v power, it will not work under 120v. 

2) I assumed all household power sockets are 120v/60hz, but a few of them are specifically 208v sockets for so called high-powered appliances, and they are specially shaped like 3-wire reverse Y or 4-wired. 

3) 240v rated infinite switch will somehow short out between red-black line under 120v, maybe it's a bug, or a design feature but I will never find out. 

Incidentally, My friend's got another Roper range of the same model that died, he bought it 12-month back brand new. I will check that one out too, let hope the problem is similarly simple and easy. 

Thanks again for all your help!


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## AandPDan (Mar 27, 2011)

mcnutty said:


> AandPDan & Hardwareman:
> 
> thanks very much for your help and advice. I have some good news to report. I checked the circuit breaker, it turned out one of them has jumped. I turned it back on, and voila, the oven is working again. So it is a power problem, as everyone has suggested.


Glad to have helped.



mcnutty said:


> Something I learned (again) from this little adventure:
> 
> 1) 120-208Vac appliances will only take the 2 phases 208v power, it will not work under 120v.


In the US it's 120/240 vac single phase for residential. 3 phase used in heavy commercial, is 208 volts. 



mcnutty said:


> 2) I assumed all household power sockets are 120v/60hz, but a few of them are specifically 208v sockets for so called high-powered appliances, and they are specially shaped like 3-wire reverse Y or 4-wired.


Lots of larger appliances, electric ranges, cook tops. electric dryers, and electric water heaters are 240 volt.



mcnutty said:


> 3) 240v rated infinite switch will somehow short out between red-black line under 120v, maybe it's a bug, or a design feature but I will never find out.


I don't think the switch is shorting out as such. I think you see the voltage go to 0 because there was a load on it and a high resistance in the feed. Could be a phantom reading with a digital meter.(causing the 10 volt reading).



mcnutty said:


> Incidentally, My friend's got another Roper range of the same model that died, he bought it 12-month back brand new. I will check that one out too, let hope the problem is similarly simple and easy.


Who knows, maybe it was the breaker all along. If it happens again, change it. They do get weak over time.



mcnutty said:


> Thanks again for all your help!


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