# electricity from house to garage



## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

double post


----------



## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

J MAC said:


> I have a garage with no electricity. How do I run electricity from the houe to the garage? How difficult is it to do?


With such few details, it will be impossible to tell you.

How far? What do you want to do out there? anything in the way?


----------



## ScottR (Oct 6, 2008)

There are quite a few threads on this forum on that very subject. I assume your garage is detached?

These might help to give you some ideas:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/wiring-new-detached-garage-studio-24000/
http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/detached-garage-sub-panel-3627/

http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...site:diychatroom.com+power+to+detached+garage

Like jbfan said, you can also provide some more info on your structure and your requirements to get started.

To answer your question generally, it's fairly difficult on a scale from replacing a switch to rewiring a house.


----------



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

Search this forum for "sub panels". Plenty info to get you thinking. Then we can address the particulars of your situation.


----------



## J MAC (Jun 3, 2009)

jbfan said:


> with such few details, it will be impossible to tell you.
> 
> How far? What do you want to do out there? Anything in the way?


from panel box to garage, 40ft. I want to install an automatic door opener and some lighting and out lets for small hand tools and appliances (radio,batterie charger). Nothing above ground and nothing below that i'm aware of.


----------



## 220/221 (Oct 9, 2007)

This is like the #1 asked question.

Use the search function.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Do you want a sub-panel ?
Or just one 20a circuit?


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I have 10/2 UF running to my garage for the opener, 4 outlets, and 3 lights. Used to be controlled by a switch in the house, but when we rewired, did away with the switch in the house, and have direct from the breaker panel to the garage, with a switch for the lights in the garage only.

Since we did not need to have 220 out in the garage, only ran with a 20amp in the main, and used a 2 breaker sub-panel in the garage to have a 20amp for the outlets, and 15 amp for the lights. Makes things a lot easier. Plus added a GFCI for the outlets in the garage, and a leg with a GFCI for the outdoor outlet.


----------



## J MAC (Jun 3, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Do you want a sub-panel ?
> Or just one 20a circuit?


what are the benifits


----------



## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

If you only want a few watts, max, or a few watt-hours each day, go solar.
What is the distance, house to (detached?) garage?


----------



## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

J MAC said:


> what are the benifits


Capability and expandability. It gives you the option of adding more stuff later. It's the best way to go. Second best is a MWBC (multiwire branch circuit) and a single circuit is last on my list. Use the search function. You have no idea of how much information is already typed (pictures and diagrams too) ready for you to use. Then after you get the basic idea, THEN ask for more info if you need it. You probably will not need any more help. :thumbsup:


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yoyizit said:


> If you only want a few watts, max, or a few watt-hours each day, go solar.


That will work with getting lights into the garage at night :no:
Solar is expensive, a 300w panel & battery install would be a lot of $$

For greatest flexiblity I'd install a small 100a panel & feed it with 60a
But that depends upon what you have for house current & exisitng loads
There are a ton of threads onhere as JV said that explain this in detail


----------



## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

*forgot*

If it's only a few watts you can run 12v or 24v to the garage and thereby get around some of the more burdensome of NEC rules.


----------



## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

For my detached garage (20') I ran 1" PVC conduit and 14/3 Romex (multibranch) If the cable ever goes bad, it will be simple to replace it.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yoyizit said:


> If it's only a few watts you can run 12v or 24v to the garage and thereby get around some of the more burdensome of NEC rules.


Do garage door openers run on 24v ?
I think buying everything that he wants to use in 12v/24v models will cost more then a sub panel


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You do know that you are not in code by running Romex through Conduit all the way.


----------



## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Do garage door openers run on 24v ?


1/2 hp at 24v is >15A.  You won't save in the cost of wire, that's for sure.

Maybe 15A and below is a good breakpoint for deciding to go low voltage, rather than 120/240v. That, what loads you have, peak watts and average w-h needed.


----------



## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

gregzoll said:


> You do know that you are not in code by running Romex through Conduit all the way.


 The NEC doesn't apply to me, as I'm out of jurisdiction. However, the ground temperature is about 20F for 6 months of the year.
Can you imagine, cutting the Romex installing a box, running separate conductors in the conduit, another splice in a box at the other end! 
That's just another rule that was dreamed up to cover somebodies back side.


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

It is done that way all the time.


----------

