# accurate, repeatable cuts with circular saw.



## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I used to work in a cabinet shop and loved the unisaw with a unifence.
Now I do not have these. 
I am building a set of cabinets. 6 pieces in total. And want a way to make the cuts using a circular saw.
I have used the straight edge, ripping guide method. although this works the constant measuring and adjusting of clamps for each cut takes time.
So i was wondering if anyone knows of a simple jig that would speed up the process.

Thanks for any help.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Hopefully you are using a quality carbide blade....and not the stamped steel one that typically comes with a saw.

Rockler makes a clamp on guide that works well.

I have a set of these. I don't use them very often...but when I do, they work well (I have a good table saw)

http://www.rockler.com/all-in-one-low-profile-contractor-clamps-new-improved-clamps


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Yep. Triple chip blade.
Even those roxkler straight edges you have to measure each piece.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Thinking about making a giant t-square. With a adjustable "stop/fence" on the leg that would go against the work piece. 
The t would be where the saw rides. A fence on top of 1/4 inch hardboard.
So measure first piece. Set t-square jig on it. Set the adjustable rence/stop. Clamp in place. Run saw along guide. Unclamp. Next piece just put it on and clamp. No measuring.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

mae-ling said:


> I have used the straight edge, ripping guide method. although this works the constant measuring and adjusting of clamps for each cut takes time.
> So i was wondering if anyone knows of a simple jig that would speed up the process.
> 
> Thanks for any help.


I have a Makita and a Craftsmen saw and both are exactly 1 1/2 inches from the edge of its base to the edge of the blade. When I need to clamp a guide, I add in the 1 1/2 to my measurement, clamp and cut. It doesn't save the measuring and clamping but knowing the offset of your saw does save the adjusting and re-clamping. For a straight edge I use a factory edge of plywood at least 8" wide. Clamps - heavy duty spring clamp is all that is needed. 

Panel saw is on the wish list, but not likely any time soon


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I use a wide strip of hardboard attached to a 6 inch strip of plywood.
Run saw along plywood and cut hardboard to width of saw base. This way it sits right on the line.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Rather than cutting one piece at each setting using your saw guide, stack several and cut multiples at one setting.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

You could make two T squares with the down leg of the T to the panel dimension. Clamp these on the edge of the piece, butt your rip guide, clamp the guide and remove the squares.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Consider making your own panel saw.
Attach a sled to your saw base made from PVC, cut out a sight window and blade clearance.

Make a base from 3/4 partical board 4' x 6', attach (2) 6' guide rails to each end of the base. Spaced to accept your sled, and also shimmed up off the base to about 13/16, this will leave room for 3/4 ply to slide under the guide rails. Attach a perpendicular fence to the base around one foot up. Should be able to cross cut 4 x 8 sheets. Put some 2 x lumber underneath for stability. Could also add pvc strips to the guide rails edges to smooth out the ride.
Tip the whole unit back about 15 degrees from perpendicular. Should also add a work clamp to hold your pc


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Cabinet making with a hand held circular saw can certainly be done, but it's far from ideal. However, if it were me, I'd rough cut them with my circular saw without a guide or straight edge, and then finish the cut with a good bench plane for the long grain and a block plane for the end grain. 
Even if I were using a table saw I would still leave enough meat to finish with a jointer or plane.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I have built about 6 cabinets with a circular saw and a straightedge. These have been painted, stained and even melamine. 

The constant measuring and clamping is ok for building 1 cabinet, but this time I am building 6 oak clad melamine cabinets to match others. So I was hoping for a faster way.

Thinking about doing a 'pattern cutting' method. Basically put a stop on a piece of plywood that allows my saw with a 1/8" hardboard zero clearance sacrificial baseplate to ride against the plywood and cut the piece to the right size. Do all similar pieces then set up for the next.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Yodaman - Good idea. The 8' rip cuts could be done with the straight-edge and clamp method. My problem is I do not have a shop. So the portability and size would be difficult.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I used my template (ish) idea. It worked OK.
Took at piece just larger then the piece I needed to cut. Added a fence/stop strip at the right distance so when I ran the skill saw against it it cut the piece I was cutting to the right length. Also added a hand hold to the top so I did not need to clamp.
Should have taken pics, but I get working and do not think of the camera.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

work good enough to cut out all the pcs for 6 cabinets? Seams like changing sizes puts you back at square one with all the measuring, remeasuring and securing the fence.

Try googleing "homemade panel saw" and check out all the images, maybe something will spark an idea


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

with 6 cabinets - I had 12 gables all the same, 12 tops/bottoms the same, 6 shelves the same, 6 backs the same. So it did save time measuring and clamping a straight-edge.

Was it as good as a good table saw? Heck no, was it better/easier then a straight-edge, measuring each piece and clamping? yes.

A panel saw of sorts would be a great idea, I have thoughts on one.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)




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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Ron I wondeted if an oversize one could cut up to say 36 inches. May be hard to handle.
Could have diff plates for diff sizes 0-12 12-24 24-36.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

That would be interesting to find out. Maybe if you stabilized the fence to a table etc., and slide the material.

A table like this maybe the ticket..

http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpentry/maximize-your-sawhorses/view-all


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## MushCreek (Aug 10, 2012)

I saw a pretty good looking Kreg rip jig yesterday for about $35. You only have to be able to go 24"; anything bigger than that you can figure from the other side.

I recently built our new kitchen, and didn't have a good way to break down full sized sheets. I built three big (8') sawhorses with a sacrificial top member. I used those cheap sheet metal brackets. I laid the plywood up on there, and used a straightedge to make my cuts. Yes, it took a while. I also found that the plate on my nice, expensive Milwaukee corded circular saw is NOT parallel to the blade, so I couldn't use it with the straightedge! I guess some day I'll fix it. I used my cordless saw instead with a good blade, and it worked pretty well. Still, I have a table saw for final finishing.

I was also surprised to find the sheets of 'cabinet grade' plywood were a hair out of square- maybe 1/32" over 48".


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I use 4 6' 2x4 laid on top of my saw horses. Set the blad just below the thickness of material and 2x4 just get slight cuts in it. When ripping set 2x4 on each side of cut, no pieces falling and cracking at edges.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

I had a rip cut thingy - not the Kreg. Did not like it. The fence needs to be longer then the saw and have a better handle on it. Did see one I liked, Believe it went to 28". Not bad but up to 36: would be nice for cabinet gables. But the reach to control the guide and jig would be hard at 36'. I guess you could use straight edge and cut 36 x48 then use the jig to cut the 24" width. Stil to much monkeying around.
I should just build a diy panel saw. Have a few ideas I got to work out then I will make one.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

What I mentioned above is pretty much like a panel saw, but not all panel saws are alike.










MushCreek said, " You only have to be able to go 24"; anything bigger than that you can figure from the other side."
This would be an accurate statement if you were only dealing with the 4 foot side of the panel and not the 8 foot side.


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## MushCreek (Aug 10, 2012)

That's true; I didn't think of it that way.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Here's the one in the above post in action. This would be great to have when you could fold it down from a wall, what a space savor that would be....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=382&v=X6W-AWVrpGM


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