# Basement windows 1960s



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Not sure what to do here. These windows are metal framed and it seems like the rough opening is about 13.5 x 31.75. Never replaced basment windows before. Not wanting to break up the foundation around it. It looks nailed in or something to the concrete. Cant seem to find a good replacment either. Ideas? Lowes has a window that's slightly too large. Home depot has one that's pretty close also. Is it risky/ difficult to remove some of the concrete? I dont even know what would be the proper tool to use.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

If I only need about a half inch, is that something I could chisel out?


----------



## HDS (Jun 21, 2014)

I'm interested in hearing what others have to say as I'm in a similar situation. My window frames are metal and the concrete appears to be poured around them.

To replace would also need to take out the 1/2" lip and was thinking the same, chisel and/or grinder with concrete blade. Then get a slightly smaller window and frame it out.


----------



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

In the 80s, I had to replace that exact window. I knew nothing at that time. I found an exact replacement at Pergaments. Anyway, you shouldn't have to chisel or remove any concrete. Remove the window. See what type of frame is there & if you can still use it for the new window. If not, you have to remove the current frame & replace it with something else. You can use tapcons or something similar to attach it to the concrete. Then install the window & caulk it.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> In the 80s, I had to replace that exact window. I knew nothing at that time. I found an exact replacement at Pergaments. Anyway, you shouldn't have to chisel or remove any concrete. Remove the window. See what type of frame is there & if you can still use it for the new window. If not, you have to remove the current frame & replace it with something else. You can use tapcons or something similar to attach it to the concrete. Then install the window & caulk it.


I been thinking on this, I did have insulation batts in the windows made a big difference. But since I'm finishing the basement I cant have insulation just sitting in the windows. I dont really want windows down there, but its code. Thinking of putting the insulation back and making just a rectangle panel with trim framed on it and somehow mount in front of the window in a way that it can be removed for emergency escape. Maybe I'm avoiding just replacing the dang thing though. I wonder if a modern windows R value is comparable to the old with the insulation batt. Cant decide what to do. I'll think on it some more, what do you think?


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

The insulation is R16 vs a modern window of R3ish. So I guess covering it would be better for holding temperature. Might be tacky tho. Hmmm...


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

We do the basement windows with wood inside the concrete
and have flanged window right at the outside surface and we have done a second window inside.


----------



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

> Thinking of putting the insulation back and making just a rectangle panel with trim framed on it and somehow mount in front of the window in a way that it can be removed for emergency escape.


That size window is not rated for egress. An egress window would require a larger hole in the concrete. Now that you mentioned egress & finishing the basement, if you plan to build bedroom, that changes everything. That's against code in most places & if it isn't illegal, an egress window is required. Example Andersen CX135.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Something around 6 sq. ft opening so with a slider it is 12 sq ft. for egress.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> > Thinking of putting the insulation back and making just a rectangle panel with trim framed on it and somehow mount in front of the window in a way that it can be removed for emergency escape.
> 
> 
> That size window is not rated for egress. An egress window would require a larger hole in the concrete. Now that you mentioned egress & finishing the basement, if you plan to build bedroom, that changes everything. That's against code in most places & if it isn't illegal, an egress window is required. Example Andersen CX135.


Not a bedroom but a finished rec room type of thing.


----------



## dd57chevy (Jun 21, 2015)

I can't tell from the pics if you _have_ this , but one of those inexpensive clear w-well covers is an easy option . If it fits & is secured properly , it is an effective _extra_ barrier .


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bpears said:


> Not a bedroom but a finished rec room type of thing.


Some places need an exterior door and some places don't, It would nice to be able to get out in an emergency.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Ok, so I took off the paneling finish around it and at the top I point at in the pic the top of the frame seems to be mounted on something that isn't concrete. Maybe wood idk it's hard to tell/see. It seems like I should be able to chisel out the rest with medium ease and a few hours of time. I'm not sure if I should be trying to preserve the part above or not.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Maybe it is concrete... hmm


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

You could have a concrete or wood header, that does look like a 2x6, what can you make of it outside?


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> You could have a concrete or wood header, that does look like a 2x6, what can you make of it outside?


Hard to tell theres other stuff over it. It scratches and flakes like some kind of concrete. Dont know if it's actually the foundation though like the rest


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bpears said:


> Hard to tell theres other stuff over it. It scratches and flakes like some kind of concrete. Dont know if it's actually the foundation though like the rest


 It could be a precast ledger and might look and feel different than the other concrete but could be the header.
Do the ends of the joists land above this window?


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Bpears said:
> 
> 
> > Hard to tell theres other stuff over it. It scratches and flakes like some kind of concrete. Dont know if it's actually the foundation though like the rest
> ...


Yeah joists above. I can tell the main wood piece that sits on top of the foundation is above this piece. So maybe it is some kind of brick they mortar on top of the window to finish off the gap back in the day. Seems kind of weak. Not sure if its necessary. Would be nice to keep it though since the basement was already interior framed level with curren window position. If I took it out, which seems like I may have no choice if it crumbles, then I need to replace the gap with something or get a slightly taller window.

Joists above. Looking at the rest of the bssement


----------



## 195795 (May 24, 2013)

I had these exact windows in my place in Chicago house built in 1959. I replaced them with side slider vinyl, excellent decision. I just removed the window of course and I went ahead and removed the metal frame as well and then framed the concrete opening with PT 1x and installed new window. So nice to open them so easily and they had screen, etc. Nice little upgrade to finished basement - do it !


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bpears said:


> Yeah joists above. I can tell the main wood piece that sits on top of the foundation is above this piece. So maybe it is some kind of brick they mortar on top of the window to finish off the gap back in the day. Seems kind of weak. Not sure if its necessary. Would be nice to keep it though since the basement was already interior framed level with curren window position. If I took it out, which seems like I may have no choice if it crumbles, then I need to replace the gap with something or get a slightly taller window.
> 
> Joists above. Looking at the rest of the bssement


 Could be anything.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Could be anything.


I'm gunna rip them out and replace tomorrow. So if that top brick or whatever comes loose and I just have my main house wood there that's sits on top the foundation (whatever ya call it I'm not sure), can I just replace with wood to keep the window the same size/location? And if that's the right way to go, do I need to seal that wood all around somehow or just where the window meets it?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bpears said:


> I'm gunna rip them out and replace tomorrow. So if that top brick or whatever comes loose and I just have my main house wood there that's sits on top the foundation (whatever ya call it I'm not sure), can I just replace with wood to keep the window the same size/location? And if that's the right way to go, do I need to seal that wood all around somehow or just where the window meets it?


 If you can get something in there tight, you don't want any air leaks.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Think a 2x4 sufficient to fill gap above? Gearing up to get supplies and get started after work.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

I mean if it fits, if not I can cut a piece. Should I be using weather treated or normal stud wood is fine?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bpears said:


> I mean if it fits, if not I can cut a piece. Should I be using weather treated or normal stud wood is fine?


 I think for the extra cost of one piece I would go for treated, at the least it would discourage termites.


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

I replaced something almost exactly like that with a stock vinyl from Lowes and there are always custom sizes you can order at a higher price.


I used an angle grinder to cut the frame at the top and side center points and then just jacked it out of the slots in which it was only sitting. The window was dropped into the slots from the top before the floor deck went into place.


The nailing fins were removed from the top and bottom of the new window, side fins were trimmed and on a warm day it was possible to get them into the existing grooves.


I may have a couple of images.


----------



## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

HDS said:


> I'm interested in hearing what others have to say as I'm in a similar situation. My window frames are metal and the concrete appears to be poured around them.
> 
> To replace would also need to take out the 1/2" lip and was thinking the same, chisel and/or grinder with concrete blade. Then get a slightly smaller window and frame it out.


 @HDS It sounds like you have a window buck, where this situation looks like a metal frame nailed to the concrete. A poured-in metal buck won't be coming out easily. Start a new thread with pics if you pursue it.


----------



## Bpears (Dec 22, 2018)

Welp. The "winders" are in! The top lip ended up being a thin brick like layer in front of the rubber weather thing that comes out and down from under the siding. Wasnt too bad to remove it all. The top was easiest. It was hard to get my pry bar at a good spot with limited space because of the wall studs, but yeh got it done. A lot of careful chiseling and prying. I'd recommend a helper to give yourself a break. Really just had to chisel enough to be able to pry a bit around throughout the frame. The thick of it was on the sides. Cutting the top and bottom pieces in the middle with a sawsall helped even though I couldn't reach it all the way through it because of space.


----------

