# Replacing chimney flashing after new shingles



## johnk (May 1, 2007)

To do this properly they would have to remove shingles all the way around the chimney.They would then have to remove old flashings.Then install new step tins up the side of chimney,installing along with shingles.Replace backpan.Install new counterflashing on chimney either with a termination bar or re-mortared back into chimney.I always put a nice bead of caulking behind the backpan,while installing on either side.Oh the apron on front of chimney as well.Easier for mr to do then explain.Hope this helps


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## jaros bros. (Jan 16, 2009)

Maybe they did install new step flashing and flashing and didn't install the new counterflashing. In this case, no shingles would have to be removed and replaced. If they never did install step flashing, get another crew who knows what they are doing. Can you really trust a crew that forgot such an elementary step to do a good job flashing such a vital area?


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## tmiles2246 (May 10, 2009)

Thank you for the advice. One other thing is that the chimney box is covered with vinyl siding instead of brick. 

I might have to check with my insurance company on getting another crew into finish someone else work. Though that is a good idea. The salesman or contact person failed to tell the workers to add the flashing. All in all, they were in a hurry to get in and out as fast as possible with about 8 workers on the roof scraping old shingles off and stapling new one's down.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

What you seem to be describing is a Chimney Chase, not an actual chimney.

The flashings from these are usually already tucked behind the siding.

Bottom has an apron flashing, counter flashed by the siding.

The side(s) have the step flashings, aka, baby tins, also counter flashed with the siding.

The top portion has a pan flashing, also counter flashed with the siding.

Many times either the siding or the sheet metal cap are the causes of leaks on those obstructions. Also, the top hollowed portion of the corner posts have been known to cause the leak issue.

Take photos of the sides and the top of the chimney and post them here for a better clue, if the roof slope is safe to manage for yourself. Don't do it if you are not sure footed on a sloped roof. Have the roofer take the photos for you.

Ed


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## tmiles2246 (May 10, 2009)

Attached are a couple pictures. They had used caulk around the vinyl and shingles when the roofers came out in a rainstorm thinking it would set. The tarp is nailed in down at the lower edges so it's a bit difficult to get a good photo. I took the drywall off around the fireplace as I plan to re-tile around it and in order to see where the leaking was coming from. The leaking was running down the two outer corners and the right inside corner (looking from outside in).


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## johnk (May 1, 2007)

You should never need caulk,where they have caulk.


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## Slyfox (Jun 13, 2008)

Can't see much from those pics, the first thing that comes to mind for me is at the two corner post 'outer corners' have no visible signs of step flashing's,
even if there is step flashing's on the side walls 'can't see because of caulking' if they simply ended the flashing's inside the corner pieces than any water running down that area would wind up behind the siding and allow it to get inside.

I would be present when they fix this problem and take note of exactly what they do, and ask for warranty information 'in writing'.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Can't see much with the tarp on it.

Caulk does nothing where they applied it.

Take photos of it when they are working on it again.

I don't see a kick-out flashing at the bottom corners of the chimney chase either.

Ed


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## tmiles2246 (May 10, 2009)

Slyfox said:


> I would be present when they fix this problem and take note of exactly what they do, and ask for warranty information 'in writing'.


Thanks, Nice to have knowledgeable people available on this site to ensure the job is done right. The work is covered for two years through the insurance company. So, I've taken pictures of the roof install and will be standing over them (w/camera) when the chimney flashing is replaced. :whistling2:


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Here some of the details. Not all. http://www.roofingtalk.com/f8/step-flashing-detail-277/


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

tmiles2246 said:


> Hello, I just had a roofing company replace my shingles on the roof with architecture shingles through the insurance company and they forgot to install the flashing around the chimney as quoted for the entire job. The roof was leaking around the chimney before and after the new shingles. The roofers came out and put a tarp over the chimney and under the shingles to temporarily stop the leak.


Do people really say - "Hey forget the flashing I don't need it" ??


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## tmiles2246 (May 10, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Do people really say - "Hey forget the flashing I don't need it" ??


The salesman stated they don't replace most flashings on their jobs and it was his fault that the workers didn't know about it.

Here's what they charged the insurance company. They billed them for a two story, though as a walkout basement, they used the front single level to get on the roof. This quote is for half the roof as the insurance company only paid for the side that had wind damage. So they would only paint half my car I suppose. I paid for the front side + upgrade from 3-tab to a architectural shingle for the entire roof ($2100 + $500 deductible) after reminding the salesman to knock off the two story and chimney work on my particular half of the job. For 16.98 square they made $5396.34.

I know going into this agreement that they were making a bundle and I could have done the work had I the time. Though having it done for me freed up time for other projects. I'm interested in knowing what I would have paid had I got my own estimates and not gone with the insurance company recommended roofers? Going with the insurance company bought me the two year warranty.

*Roof*
1697.86 Surface Area
49.00 Total Ridge Length
16.98 Number of Squares 187.04 Total Perimeter Length
*CAT SEL DESCRIPTION*
*CALC QNTY UNIT PRICE RCV DEPREC. ACV*
1. RFG 240S Remove 3 tab - 25 yr. - comp. shingle roofing - w/out felt
*F1SQ 8.38 SQ 36.18 303.19 (0.00) 303.19*
3. RFG HIGH Remove Additional charge for high roof (2 stories or greater)
*F1SQ 8.38 SQ 2.80 23.46 (0.00) 23.46*
4. RFG HIGH Additional charge for high roof (2 stories or greater)
*8.38 8.38 SQ 9.33 78.19 (0.00) 78.19*
2. RFG 240S 3 tab - 25 yr. - comp. shingle roofing - w/out felt
*RUP((F1SQ)*1. 9.33 SQ 140.67 1,312.45 (0.00) 1,312.45*
*10*3)/3*
5. RFG FELT15 Roofing felt - 15 lb.
*8.38 8.38 SQ 19.03 159.47 (0.00) 159.47*
6. RFG FLPIPE Remove Flashing - pipe jack
*3 3.00 EA 3.73 11.19 (0.00) 11.19*
7. RFG FLPIPE Flashing - pipe jack
*3 3.00 EA 20.82 62.46 (0.00) 62.46*
8. RFG FLCH Remove Chimney flashing - average (32" x 36")
*1 1.00 EA 9.92 9.92 (0.00) 9.92*
9. RFG FLCH Chimney flashing - average (32" x 36")
*1 1.00 EA 191.44 191.44 (0.00) 191.44*
*Totals: Roof 2,151.77 0.00 2,151.77*

Plus $644.57 for material sales tax, overhead and a 10% profit.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I'm going my addition's roof - 24x36
So a little over 1,000 sq ft
Under $1000 for architect shingles, ridge caps, flashing, drip edges, ridge vent, ice & water shield


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## mdavis103 (May 31, 2009)

Are you posting completed photos? I have a very similiar problem. However, my insurance isn't flipping for the bill (manufacture defect, no flashing). Interesting thread...


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## tmiles2246 (May 10, 2009)

The roofers finally came back after a call to the insurance company. They used "L" shaped flashing pieces approx. 4"x8" and stepped them up the side of the chimney and around the back. A piece of flashing would go on then the row of shingles over the top. The next flashing went on top of the previous shingle and the next row of shingles on top of that flashing. This sequence continued until the back side of the chimney. The backside was stepped up to the point in the middle.

The vinyl was removed around the bottom for the flashing to get underneath. The roofers ended up pulling the corner vinyl trim out and bending it out of shape. The company's siding people came out and re-did the corner trim piece. I think each separate crew kept the other crew in business. The tarp on the chimney is gone and the roof in not leaking.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

You have another problem awaiting being there is no housewrap on that chimney. Nice pics. lol I see they hire the best "workers", and use the thinest possible flashing they can buy. 

I hope it holds for you, but next time get someone qualified.


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## tmiles2246 (May 10, 2009)

This is what the insurance companies are paying big bucks for. If you want anything done right now-a-days, you gotta do it yourself. Thanks for the tip on the wrap, I'll add it to the list of things to do and strip the vinyl off some day.


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## Therightway (Apr 18, 2011)

mdavis103. it sounds like lots of people are getting second hand labor when it comes to roofing. I am in the sameboat. I had my house built in 03 and I have had water in my basement from the chimney for 3yrs. now. I have tried to get something done by the builders. But no luck. they told me "I dont believe the house is 8 years old and you have just seen water comming in now". I have NO flashing around my chimney and I have done the same as many caulked to try to help. But, NOOOOO help. Where is the justice in the world. I am not a skilled pro on the topic but I am out of things I can do. other than get to sueing them. Any suggestions from anyone? PLEASE. Oh by the way. The folks that built my home where TK constuction out of IN> & IL. don't hire them......


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