# Beadboard wainscotting walls in bathroom



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

jmorc2003 said:


> Thinking of adding beadboard to the walls in a small bathroom. The walls are currently tiled, bottom half of the wall in most of the room, and the entire wall and ceiling in the shower. I would rip off the tiles and attach the boards to the sheetrock.
> 
> Looking for ideas for what to do with the walls inside the shower. Should I put the boards up the shower/tub and then keep the tile? Can the beadboard sheets be used in the shower area? Is there something else to use on the walls and ceiling of the shower? Also should mention that the beadboard would be white, while the tile is an off-white or tan in color.
> 
> Also worth mentioning, I don't have an exhaust fan in the bathroom so moisture is sometimes an issue.


Post some pictures!
Bead board has no place in a wet area!
In the wet areas it can be tiled or at least tiled up to about 5' and sheetrocked the rest of the way with green board or paper less sheetrock.
I can not stress enough how important it is to have an exohost vent that runs all the way to the outside of the house!!!


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

If you are going to put that prefinished beadboard anywhere in your home, do yourself a favor and get an oscillating multi-tool with the Dremel universal adapter and the Dremel wood-cutting blade. NOT the circular blade, the long skinny blade that has Dremel Wood printed across it. We used this board in the kitchen, and this tool is a lifesaver. Jigsaws and circular saws destroy the white finish, utility knives wont cut it, and reciprocating saws tear it up. And Joe is right, it has no business in a wet area. Its made of masonite board, it will disintegrate. What you could do is get some real wood beadboard (more expensive, but much more durable) and paint it with moisture-blocking paint and primer, and put that in your bathroom, but not the prefinished paneling stuff. But inside your shower, i would still use tile with a waterproof backerboard and waterproof membrane. If you have ever watched Holmes on Homes or Disaster DIY you will know that grout is not waterproof! You must have a backer!


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## jmorc2003 (Oct 9, 2012)

So are you saying that beadboard in general is not ok in a bathroom? Or just not the shower area?


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

TrailerParadise said:


> If you are going to put that prefinished beadboard anywhere in your home, do yourself a favor and get an oscillating multi-tool with the Dremel universal adapter and the Dremel wood-cutting blade. NOT the circular blade, the long skinny blade that has Dremel Wood printed across it. We used this board in the kitchen, and this tool is a lifesaver. Jigsaws and circular saws destroy the white finish, utility knives wont cut it, and reciprocating saws tear it up. And Joe is right, it has no business in a wet area. Its made of masonite board, it will disintegrate. What you could do is get some real wood beadboard (more expensive, but much more durable) and paint it with moisture-blocking paint and primer, and put that in your bathroom, but not the prefinished paneling stuff. But inside your shower, i would still use tile with a waterproof backerboard and waterproof membrane. If you have ever watched Holmes on Homes or Disaster DIY you will know that grout is not waterproof! You must have a backer!



you can use a jigsaw or circ saw no problem, you either cut from the backside of the panel or use masking tape and tape the base of the saw first. pros do it this way every day without issue


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It's fine of you use a real wood or those high dollar vinyl pieces.
That prefinished MDF paneling is junk and will not hold up.


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Kirk, the real wood stuff will cut with those tools no problem, but the prefinished masonite board will not, it will destroy the finish. Trust me, i just did a whole room in this stuff and used every one of those tools i mentioned. i destroyed three boards.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

jmorc2003 said:


> So are you saying that beadboard in general is not ok in a bathroom? Or just not the shower area?


 
Never put wood in a shower:no:


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

TrailerParadise said:


> Kirk, the real wood stuff will cut with those tools no problem, but the prefinished masonite board will not, it will destroy the finish. Trust me, i just did a whole room in this stuff and used every one of those tools i mentioned. i destroyed three boards.



ive installed thousands of feet of it and ive never had issues, sounds like your using the wrong jigsaw blade or your using a circ saw blade thats dull or not high enough a tooth count.. for finish work you have to use a 40 tooth circ saw blade.. a craftsman doesnt blame the tool he knows how to adapt and change things so they always get the results they want

also 3 boards isnt a big deal, if you allow for waste and 5% error in your estimate it wouldnt have been an issue.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

A few tips for installing it.
All seams need to be sitting on a stud.
Install about 1/2 up off the floor. For two reasons, it can not wick up water on the floor and floors are never level. Just snap a line and set them to the line.
Before installing look around to see where it's going to come up in relationship to any outlets, the top of the sink, any windows.
The standard heigth would be 32" so you can get three pieces out of one 8' sheet.
Start in the middle of the wall to the cuts on the ends will be about equal.
Scrib in the end cuts, sometimes I use a sander to fine tune the inside corners so there tight enough you do not need that ugly inside corner moulding.
Use Loc Tite Qwick grip so you need less fastners. I use a hand floor roller to run across the face of the sheets to level out the glue. A rolling pin will work.
Done right you should only need nails at the seams and a very few top and bottom. The panel cap and base boards will hold it tight to the wall.


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## Duckweather (Mar 26, 2012)

woodworkbykirk said:


> ive installed thousands of feet of it and ive never had issues, sounds like your using the wrong jigsaw blade or your using a circ saw blade thats dull or not high enough a tooth count.. for finish work you have to use a 40 tooth circ saw blade.. a craftsman doesnt blame the tool he knows how to adapt and change things so they always get the results they want
> 
> also 3 boards isnt a big deal, if you allow for waste and 5% error in your estimate it wouldnt have been an issue.


Ever try the saber saw blades that have teeth that cut downward? Harder to hold down but can cut from the finish side.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Works fine but the saws sole can leave marks unless you use some blue tape.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

i hate those blades i just use coping blades by bosch


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Sounds like a lot of headache when you can easily use an oscillating multi tool and get it over with. No tape required, no special blades, the blade is $4. OP, if you want to save yourself a lot of time, a lot of energy, and a lot of money, use an oscillating tool. Those sheets are expensive.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I agree, my ossilating saw and my drill driver are my go to tools for a ton of jobs.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

oscilating tools are specialty tools,, hte jigsaw blades i mentioned arent a specialty blade its just a different blade that costs the same for a pack as every other type of blade. here they run $10.50 for a 5 pk.. 

most people dont have oscilating tools, carpenters as well. i have two but i specialize in interior trim for high end remodels


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Well thats your opinion. Just because we have a different opinion of whats more efficient and cost effective doesnt make it wrong just because we arent pros.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

im not saying its wrong, im saying why would someone go out and spend $100 on a specialty tool for one cut. thats not cost effective for anyone

im also curious as to where your finding a $4 multitool cutting blade.. the cheapest ive seen for an individual blade is $9 and thats a junk blade. my hardwood supplier has their own flooring and stair installers on staff so they buy the fein blades by the case. what would cost $25 is now down to $7.50 a blade but they have to buy 2000 at a time


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Thats because i buy them individually from Home Depot. I bought my tool for $20 from sears and its been a lifesaver. I even used it when i built my first two cabinets this weekend. I buy the Dremel blades, not fancy ones but they do the job better than anything ive seen. Ive used fine cut blades on a jigsaw, ive used so-called "delicate" cutting blades on a circular, and every time they tore up the beadboard no matter what i did or how careful i was or whether i had it upside down or right side up. Pros might have some tricks but for a DIYer, the multi-tool is the easiest ive found. Only bad thing about it is that it messes with your nervous system to use it, makes you light headed from the vibrations. Then again, ive gotten that feeling from my jigsaw too, at times.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've used mine for cutting holes for outlets, cutting out a section of drywall to make a repair, under cut door jambs, removing old mastic from walls, making the short cut when repairing a piece of hard wood flooring, grout removal, cutting underlayment, cutting plastic and copper pipe in tight spots, and a bunch of other jobs. 

I've been buying my blades on Amazon.com, a pack of 15 is onlt about $6.00 a piece for my Multi Crafter.


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