# Dowel fence install



## NegativeTen (Mar 29, 2013)

It depends on what you're trying to accomplish. When I think of a dowel fence, I think of what you see on a typical ranch. If you want it purely to keep your cattle in, or for aesthetics, then sure, go with dowels. If you want any sort of privacy or to keep kids or dogs in (or out), then a normal privacy fence could be what you're looking for. 

At the end of the day, totally up to you and your needs and preferences.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've never once heard of doweling a fence.
Got a web site or picture of this fencing.
No way is a dowel going to hold a fence up. One wind and it's down.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tjfslaughter said:


> All,
> 
> I am ordering fence panels and the manufacturer thinks that "doweling" the fence in is a better method. I spent a little time on Google with little results. Has anybody ever done this? If so do you have pics?


 

This is a dowled fence.

http://www.parmapostandpole.com/doweled-fencing-wood-fences-installations


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tjfslaughter said:


> All,
> 
> I am ordering fence panels and the manufacturer thinks that "doweling" the fence in is a better method. I spent a little time on Google with little results. Has anybody ever done this? If so do you have pics?


 
Just gave your question some more thought,and you said fence panels,which means the manufacturer's talking about the cross members of your fence being dowled in as opposed to being fastened to the posts with say nails,more i think about it the better it sounds.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Sold tons of this type of fencing in lodgepole pine form. At least the base of the posts came treated. Lodgepole is surprising strong even though worthless if you slice it into panels. 

It is a little tricky to set your post since you should fit the rails at the same time. Ours came fairly precision drilled and "doweled" I guess is a term that works for the ends.

We recommended dry setting the posts with something like Sakrete or just packing them with gravel and fill dirt. Some put a nail in through the post and rail to hold it in place but I saw no reason for it. As I said the challenge was staying level and plumb setting and fitting rails and posts at the same time. 

I framing level and some nice string line and a string level are in your future. We also suggested digging or drilling the post holes a little larger than with dimensional timber so you could move the posts around if needed. 

Now then, if this is not the fence system you are talking about, I have seen nice fences with few fasteners where the system was rail and tenon and the tenons slipped into the posts. Then dowels went through them. I worried how they would hold up outside but the Japanese no fastener houses have been standing for hundreds of years. Boats were built this way too at times. 

I think if you tried this, I would be inclined to use a piece of stainless, nylon or a carriage bolt system and some wood plugs to fill the recessed holes. I have used and carriage bolts on benches, trellises and things and hidden the fastener ends this way.


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## tjfslaughter (Oct 2, 2012)

The dowel and post fence is not what I am looking at.

I am buying tongue and groove cedar fencing. It was explained to me that in New England most installers take a dowel rod and drill into the 8 foot post and slide the end of the fence into the dowels. The fence is has 3 horizontal post on each face. This means there is 6 dowel pins holding it in. Once pinned you install a set screw out of site. 

When I use search engines I come up with the same images and fences you guys are talking about.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

show some pics of the type of fence you are talking about.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

???
http://www.sentryfence.net/0604121259a.jpg


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tjfslaughter said:


> The dowel and post fence is not what I am looking at.
> 
> I am buying tongue and groove cedar fencing. It was explained to me that in New England most installers take a dowel rod and drill into the 8 foot post and slide the end of the fence into the dowels. The fence is has 3 horizontal post on each face. This means there is 6 dowel pins holding it in. Once pinned you install a set screw out of site.
> 
> When I use search engines I come up with the same images and fences you guys are talking about.


 
I've been doing woodworking as a hobby for 50 years and i can't even visualize what you explain,if you come up with a pic please post it,you have my attention.


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## NegativeTen (Mar 29, 2013)

From the description it sounds like it's done for added stability over typical tongue-and-groove style panels. Though, to me it sounds like someone's just trying to up-sell you. Maybe in the north east a stronger joint for modular fences helps out because of strong winds? I dunno..


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## tjfslaughter (Oct 2, 2012)

Fix'n it said:


> ???
> http://www.sentryfence.net/0604121259a.jpg


Something like that but imagine butting the end of the fence into the centerline of the post. Where the 2x3"a (horizontal) butt up to the post it is secured with. 4 inch or so dowel rod.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tjfslaughter said:


> Something like that but imagine butting the end of the fence into the centerline of the post. Where the 2x3"a (horizontal) butt up to the post it is secured with. 4 inch or so dowel rod.


 

It's the tongue and groove part that stumps me.


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## tjfslaughter (Oct 2, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> It's the tongue and groove part that stumps me.


The fence is t&g cedar it is not that relevant to the mounting to the post


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tjfslaughter said:


> The fence is t&g cedar it is not that relevant to the mounting to the post


 

Thats what over thinking gets you,thanks for clearing up.


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