# Today's screw up: stripped brake caliper bolt



## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

That is messed up.

I have been fortunate in that the thirty-some-odd years (and over 15 different cars and trucks) I have been doing brake jobs I have never stripped a bolt.


----------



## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

The car designer who spec'd the bolt should be forced to repair it.:smile: A round head on a part that rusts. 

I'm sure you know already, but I've seen videos of people welding a hex head bolt on such parts. Also just guessing but, if there's enough room and also if bits fit, an impact screw driver maybe would've been better idea. I don't know how to weld, so I'd talk to a metal shop first. Also if space allows, buy a new bolt but have a hex head welded on. No real situation as such for me, just throwing some ideas.


Your problem brings up something. The bit you used, what's the shank size? The impact screw drivers weren't 1/4" shanks, I think. I was wondering if I should buy one but I think I was hesitating because the bits seem to be specialty sizes, and not sure where else I'd use the driver except car repairs.


----------



## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

That's not the vise grip to be used for the job. You need one that has ROUND jaws, not flat. Also, larger size. Slider bolts are not torqued too much, they are easy to loosen with vise grip. 

Next would have been large channel lock. Again, with ROUND jaws, so they purchase on round surface well.
Last but not least - every man favorite.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

ukrkoz said:


> That's not the vise grip to be used for the job. You need one that has ROUND jaws, not flat. Also, larger size. Slider bolts are not torqued too much, they are easy to loosen with vise grip.
> 
> Next would have been large channel lock. Again, with ROUND jaws, so they purchase on round surface well.
> Last but not least - every man favorite.


I tried the curved vise grips first. No luck with those either. No matter how tight I got them they wouldn't turn the bolt. Maybe a larger, higher quality pair of vise grips are the answer. I also have a couple pipe wrenches. Good suggestion!

Maybe take the caliper off, leave the brake line connected, and pound a bolt extractor the bolt head? IDK.


----------



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

The cheap chinese vice grips weren't up to the task. Teeth on the jaws were softer than the caliper bolt. Guess I will go to lowes tomorrow and pick some Irwins.


----------



## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Quality vise grips might get it done but typically those bolts are pretty hard so you might have some trouble getting the jaws to grab hold.

In my shop the easy fix would be to just weld a nut on it. If you don't have a welder, one of these extractors (in the correct size) will probably get the job done. They are sold in sets or individual sizes. 

It's like an easy out that fits over a broken off bolt or stripped head, just drive it onto the damaged fastener, the flutes dig in and grab as you turn in reverse.


----------



## KHouse75 (May 14, 2008)

Should be able to get one of those bolt extractors in the big box stores. Lowe's carries them in store: Lowe's Irwin Bolt Extractor Kit


----------



## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

You could heat it up with a propane torch and loosening with a big pair of vice grips and a hammer. 

10 in. Professional Curved Jaw Locking Pliers $6.99

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-professional-curved-jaw-locking-pliers-94286.html


----------

