# My new home build



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

The Driveway comes first...

Before we get to far ahead of ourselves the obvious comes first. Not much can be done without a driveway in place. My father-in-law offered up his services to give us a hand with the driveway. He enjoys running the bulldozer and he is good at what he does. We closed on the mortgage in mid-March and it was time to get started. Before we could call the Excavator TO the site we needed to provide some stable ground to get him ON the site.

My father in law showed up and started pushing off some snow in order for our work to begin. Unlike years past - this winter was tough to shake. As our luck would have it, old man winter didn't leave without a fight.

Once the site was clear my wife and I mapped out our driveway. We wanted somewhat of a curve into it rather than a straight shot from the road. We staked it out the way we envisioned it and my father in law returned to cut it out with the dozer. We think we'll like it.

After the driveway was "cut-in" we decided to purchase some driveway fabric. I didn't initially plan to use it but was persuaded by a couple people whom deal with it everyday. I don't think we'll be sorry. We purchased it from the local contractor supply store and they delivered it to our doorstep without a fuss. We utilized a local trucking outfit to bring some of their gravel from their own gravel bed. While they were dumping material, my father-in-law pushed it off with the dozer while my mother-in-law cut the fabric. We're really fortunate to have their help. Especially while we are both working to pay for this project. 

Either way, we felt the local trucking companys gravel will provide a good base for a lesser cost than getting it from the local quarry. The base of the driveway was filled in at about 8-10" (inches) thick. Down the road when we're ready to finish up the driveway we'll get some "Driveway mix" from the quarry to "pretty it up".


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Stake the house and CLEAR the site!
After we had the driveway in place it was time to schedule our Excavator to the site. We hired out the Excavating for obvious reasons (he is my wifes uncle) but he also is really talented at what he does. But with any good, talented contractor comes a back logged schedule. He had a few home sites to get to before ours. This was fine though. It gave us a couple more weeks to comb over the plans and grind out some last minute changes. In the meantime - boy did it rain. During this time he had to push us off a couple extra days because of the rain. But we felt fortunate that it wasn't our home site that was "opened up" to take on all the rain. 

The weekend before the excavator was slated to start he came out on a Saturday morning and we walked the site to stake out the house and discuss the many questions that I had. I've never been to afraid to ask stupid questions and I am sure he knows that by now. In my profession, I know how it can be to answer some goofy questions but I also understand that there is no way of knowing without asking. He was very helpful making sure I understood everything.

Before we were completely ready for him to start, my father in law saved him some work by clearing off the site, stripping the valuable top-soil. That way the excavation contractor didn't need his dozer on site. He could just bring his excavator and get to work. 

I came home from work to see the dozer busy at work. 

Next up - we break ground!


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Excavating Begins - we've got a hole!
Our excavator showed up bright and early on Tuesday (April 23) to start digging. Four years ago when we bought this land we knew the day would come but it was surreal that the day finally came. Definitely an exciting time for us. It was great to see the ground being "broke" officially.

By the time I got to the site after work they had the basement opened up and started on running the drainage to the back of our site. 

When he cut into the land there was some water that migrated to the surface. By starting the drainage we were able to get rid of a lot of the water to keep the hole from becoming a "mud hole". With one of my self proclaimed "stupid questions" I learned that the concrete contractors are used to having some water to work in when they arrive to install footings.

Working away from the hole - we continued to cut the trench and we began laying pipe to start the drainage.

Since I was out of work for the day and they were still plugging away it didn't take long for me to get to work so in the trench I went to install pipe and stabilize it with some of the loose dirt off the banks. This saved our contractor the time of jumping in and out of the excavator.

By the end of the day we were able to run the drain pipe all the way out to daylight and begin the backfill.

Backfill of the trench is complete and we're ready for footings to be installed!


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Subscribed. Hope you keep updating.


----------



## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

I'm following too. What kind of house is it? Where is it? What are the plans for heat, insulation, solar??? dorf dude...


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Hey guys. It will be a two story "Colonial" style.. Located in Central NY.. We are going with a typical LP high-efficiency boiler with radiant on the first floor, baseboard on the second. We are on a budget so we are subbing out only select trades.. 

10" x 20" reinforced footings are installed.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

We are going with only the best insulation, spray foam..

Just because of budget constraints we aren't using solar/wind/geothermal... I'd love to go with a geothermal system but I just can't justify the added expense...We are still young and will be raising a family in this home so down the road we can add the geothermal.

After the footings were installed my wifes uncle (the excavation contractor) came back and helped us with the drain tile and stone. The drain tile runs the perimeter of the footings, both inside and outside, and ties in to the green "out-feed" pipe that we installed in a previous post.


----------



## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

I see you are in CNY, good to see the house build, neighbor.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

No basement? I thought everyone there had basements?


----------



## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

You better double check on that spray foam insulation. There is a massive lawsuit coming forward against some of the manufacturers. The homes have become toxic and it can't be removed. I almost used it but it is not readily available in Germany. Here's the link. http://www.sprayfoamlawsuit.org/
I'm not a fear spreader or "The Sky is Falling" type of guy. Time is telling it's tale with this product. Of course there are different types and not all of them are having problems. Do some research before you spray it. dorf dude...


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

shumakerscott said:


> You better double check on that spray foam insulation. There is a massive lawsuit coming forward against some of the manufacturers. The homes have become toxic and it can't be removed. I almost used it but it is not readily available in Germany. Here's the link. http://www.sprayfoamlawsuit.org/
> I'm not a fear spreader or "The Sky is Falling" type of guy. Time is telling it's tale with this product. Of course there are different types and not all of them are having problems. Do some research before you spray it. dorf dude...


With all due respect - you are not well informed in regards to this lawsuit. To tell you the truth I have been working for an installer for the past 5+ years. When I started we had one spray foam rig and we have since grown to four rigs. I have seen my fair share of projects and I have been around my fair share of SPF chemicals and manufacturers. What it comes down to is the simple fact that ANYONE can be a spray foam installer. Just like anyone can call themselves a carpenter, a painter, a roofer, and unless you're doing business in some townships or cities, you can be an electrician and a plumber if you so choose. All without having any credentials that says you are cut out for the job. The spray foam industry has no place for the "weekend warrior". If you want to buy a trailer to pull behind your pick-up and call yourself a spray foam company that is fine. However, you shall not have the ability to purchase any kind of chemicals/materials until you are factory trained, until you are accredited by the Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA) and until you have proof of insurance. Because the truth of these lawsuits are - the product wasn't installed right. And we hear about it all to often. I am now an Estimator/Project Manager for the company I work for - I also have been chosen to be the one who hires the guys that we put on our job sites. We run our guys through extensive health/safety training so they are well versed with the complexities to a proper install. We visit the job site and make sure the application is going as planned. And - to be honest - if we have a problem, we jump at it.

Long story short, if we didn't have a solid workforce with knowledgeable guys, and didn't take the necessary precautions that all spray foam contractors should then we could very well be a part of these lawsuits.

A good message to homeowners out there -- don't be cautious of SPRAY FOAM, be cautious of who is installing it!


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

ddawg16 said:


> No basement? I thought everyone there had basements?


We gotta get there yet... 
Here the walls have been formed.. We're ready to pour on Monday.

The contractor I use is one of the only concrete guys in the area that uses Aluminum forms. They are 3'0" wide and although they are heavier, they go together much easier than the typical forms. They also provide a cleaner look then the typical 2'0" wide steel/wood forms that most use.

My contractor is known for some beautiful work and I think his forms have a lot to do with it.

We originally were planning on 8 ft. basement walls. But we have a walk-out where we intend to pull in my snowmobile or sub-compact (a garage isn't part of the build). I also am a hobby wood worker and intend to use the basement as my shop. As it turns out there isn't a lot of added cost from going to a 9ft. basement as there is the same amount of work involved setting forms. The added cost is basically the concrete. So - we went with 9 ft and I don't think we'll be sorry.


----------



## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

bgibson11 said:


> With all due respect - you are not well informed in regards to this lawsuit. To tell you the truth I have been working for an installer for the past 5+ years. When I started we had one spray foam rig and we have since grown to four rigs. I have seen my fair share of projects and I have been around my fair share of SPF chemicals and manufacturers. What it comes down to is the simple fact that ANYONE can be a spray foam installer. Just like anyone can call themselves a carpenter, a painter, a roofer, and unless you're doing business in some townships or cities, you can be an electrician and a plumber if you so choose. All without having any credentials that says you are cut out for the job. The spray foam industry has no place for the "weekend warrior". If you want to buy a trailer to pull behind your pick-up and call yourself a spray foam company that is fine. However, you shall not have the ability to purchase any kind of chemicals/materials until you are factory trained, until you are accredited by the Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA) and until you have proof of insurance. Because the truth of these lawsuits are - the product wasn't installed right. And we hear about it all to often. I am now an Estimator/Project Manager for the company I work for - I also have been chosen to be the one who hires the guys that we put on our job sites. We run our guys through extensive health/safety training so they are well versed with the complexities to a proper install. We visit the job site and make sure the application is going as planned. And - to be honest - if we have a problem, we jump at it.
> 
> Long story short, if we didn't have a solid workforce with knowledgeable guys, and didn't take the necessary precautions that all spray foam contractors should then we could very well be a part of these lawsuits.
> 
> A good message to homeowners out there -- don't be cautious of SPRAY FOAM, be cautious of who is installing it!


I was just bringing up the point of some issues with the installation of the foam. I'm glad your up on the issues and are aware. Now all that read this will also be aware too. I was told so many times by the locals that I could not do things the way I planned. I did it anyway and it has worked out with great results. Good luck with your build:thumbup:. dorf dude...


----------



## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Interesting draintile by the footings, is it sch. 35 leach field pipe? Can't say I've seen it turned down into the frost wall like that too often either.

Regardless, the build looks good so far, plenty of clear stone for drainage.......:thumbsup:

Good luck with the build, and you'll be perpetually happy that you went with 9' walls.......


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> Interesting draintile by the footings, is it sch. 35 leach field pipe? Can't say I've seen it turned down into the frost wall like that too often either.
> 
> Regardless, the build looks good so far, plenty of clear stone for drainage.......:thumbsup:
> 
> Good luck with the build, and you'll be perpetually happy that you went with 9' walls.......


Yes, schedule 35. We have a walk-out going in the back. So we put in drop footings going 6 ft. to the left and 6 ft. to the right of the walk-out. The drainage is running the length of the footings, including the drop footings.. The outfeed pipe is at the height of the drop footings. Surprisingly even after 5 days of digging the hole the outfeed pipe is still draining water. 

When I waterproof the outside of the basement walls we'll waterproof all the way down to the footings. In this case, that would include the drop footings - all water will be directed down the wall to the footings where the drain tile will catch and take it where it needs to go.


----------



## Amateuralex (Mar 17, 2012)

Gorgeous land. This will be awesome to watch, thanks for making this thread.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Some morning time rain drops didn't hinder the guys from returning to pour the walls. At first glance, there wasn't going to be a "pour" today but the rain quickly subsided and allowed the guys to get to the site. By 3pm or so the walls were poured.

I am starting my DIY tasks once these panels are removed. My friends/coworkers are going to give me a hand waterproofing the walls. I am using an unusual but effective way to waterproof the walls. I estimate my buddies and I need about 3 nights and a Saturday morning to do everything we need to do. Stay tuned for that.

In the meantime...


----------



## no1hustler (Aug 11, 2010)

Update! Update! Update!


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Started out strong and then....

Hope you keep updating.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

*Waterproofing/Insulation*

OK guys. My apologies - been quite busy between this house and work!

Either way.. 

Panels removed...

I am really pleased with the looks of my contractors walls. Definitely "as advertised". 

We poured 8" walls at a 9'0" height. I was originally going to go with 8 ft. walls but for the minimal added cost of the concrete we decided it was wise to go with 9'0". I do some hobby woodworking and the 9 ft. height will be nice. Plus I plan to use the basement for a place to store my tractor/snowblower and snowmobile.

On to the waterproofing/insulation..


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

*More wall pics*

Here are some more pics of the walls.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

When it came to the waterproofing and insulation I had dreaming this up for quite sometime. Although I live in the Northern climate I firmly believe in thermal mass and taking advantage of it wherever possible.

As you will see in the photos below I went with a semi-standard waterproofing (Henry Blueskin) self adhered membrane. I liked this option much better than the typical mop-on tar "Dampproofing". With these walls exposed there was no way I was going to do the minimal "dampproofing". 

I work in Estimating/Project Management for the contracting company I work for and I was able to garner a sweet deal from our supplier on the membrane. We install air barriers of all types on commercial buildings so the product is something we are familiar with. I mapped out at what height the grade was going to run on the wall and proceeded with the waterproofing install.

First we install a water-based primer to the wall and allow it to "tack-up". Once it tacks up we install the Blueskin directly to it being careful to keep from ripples/bubbles. It took me and my helper 2 evenings to complete the Blueskin.

Pictures to follow.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Ok - all of a sudden can't upload pics. But I'll get them on ASAP.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Some Blueskin photos


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

After the Blueskin was complete I went around to insulate the top portion of the wall that will eventually be "above grade". Because the below grade portion will be insulated by another method - I wanted to use DOW board above grade as I plan to parge/stucco over the foam board afterwards to bring back the concrete appearance.

I read mixed reviews about foam board adhesives and fasteners for concrete but ultimately went with fasteners because I knew it was going to work. 

I purchased some push-pin fasteners for the board and grabbed some clamps from my wood working shop.

I'd clamp the boards to the wall and pre-drill my holes with the hammer drill. I marked the 3" (inch) depth mark on my drill bit so I didn't over drill or use up to much of my own energy (LOL).

Once the hole was pre-drilled I inserted the push pin and tapped her home with the hammer.

When DIYchatroom allows I will post some more pics but it seems to have limited me for now.


----------



## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

How's it going?


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Here are some pics of the progress


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

First floor walls begin


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Second floor walls begin


----------



## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Looking good.

Thanks for the update


----------



## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

Its been four months, bgibson. Any updates? Or are they still working on that second floor?


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Obviously pass the second floor. No updates means little time! 

We just finished up drywall and plastering is nearing completion. Geothermal heat is wrapping up.. Things are coming together. Sorry I haven't kept updating but we are doing a lot of work on our own so its been late nights and long (but short) weekends!


----------



## kimberland30 (Jan 22, 2008)

Gorgeous home!


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

I've got a ton of photos for each aspect of the build so feel free to ask questions And ill post any photos if interest. DIY tasks included, window install, siding/soffits/trim install, HRV install, painting, water system install, among others!


----------



## kimberland30 (Jan 22, 2008)

Wow, with all the work you've gotten done in five months it's little wonder you haven't had time to post updates throughout the process. I've been working on my living room for two months now and it's still not done...and all we were doing was replacing the floor, trim and getting new furniture.


----------



## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Very nice in a short time.

Thanks for the update.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

And to think I missed a couple opportunities to be further ahead. House sat with no windows in it for 1 month because of my not knowing about the required lead time. Same for baths.. But it is what it is. Working 50 hrs a week while trying to build a house can be time consuming!


----------



## Pittsville (Jan 8, 2011)

bgibson11 said:


> I've got a ton of photos for each aspect of the build so feel free to ask questions And ill post any photos if interest. DIY tasks included, window install, siding/soffits/trim install, HRV install, painting, water system install, among others!


I'd love to see some closer photos of your electric meter can/risers if possible. 

Looking good! Great work!


----------



## mgh-pa (May 25, 2011)

Great thread. Gorgeous home. I see you decided to go with geothermal?


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

I did.

Sure hoping it pays off!


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

One shot


----------



## Panda2 (Oct 15, 2013)

What a beautiful house and I love that color, it really stands out against all that green. The view of the property and surrounding area looks like a fantastic place to build a new home. Thanks for posting the progress from the beginning.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Laying down deck boards right now with tile going down inside


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Love it.

Looking great.


----------



## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

Those tiles look quite authentic. What brand are they?


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Movila 7" x 20" wood plank tile - bought them at the local bargain outlet. Each bundle had about 2-3 tiles that the ink machine must have been running out it appears. I think that is why the ended up in the outlet store.


----------



## bgibson11 (May 15, 2011)

Ok guys.. Hardwood set to begin shortly.

Actually softwood and hardwood!

Putting wide plank pine flooring on the second floor and pioneer oak on the first floor.

What is everyone's thoughts? The wood has acclimated for the past 10 days and I'm putting down rosin paper on the second floor. Pine will start first. Wondering if I should run all boards perpendicular to floor joists or should I not be afraid to turn them parallel with the joists. 

Also should I treat each room individually thus installing thresholds or shall I run the flooring clear through the interior door openings?


----------



## Amateuralex (Mar 17, 2012)

I can't answer any of your questions except the threshholds, and only to say that every job i've seen installs them, including my house. It reduces the expansion/contraction.

I love how far you've come, the exterior is beautiful, can't wait to see your floors installed.


----------

