# Sherwin Williams ProClassic Questions



## PBizme (Aug 4, 2009)

I'm looking at a data sheet for ProClassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Semi-Gloass Enamel and I have some questions.

It lists a drying time at 77 degrees. I anticipate the temperature being more like 60 degrees where I'm going to be painting so how much longer do I need to expect? If recoat says 4 hours and I wait 24 hours is that going to be fine?

The other thing is that it has a Finish category and it lists information for 24 hours and 30 days. Both of those list a range of units at 60 degrees. What are those units and what does this Finish category even mean?

This whole project is a giant craft table which consists of a couple bookshelves and a top so if anyone has a suggestion for a different non-oil based paint I'm still open to suggestions.


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## ARC Painting (Dec 23, 2011)

Recoat times are pretty generous on the label, 24 is more than enough. You can recoat once its dry to the touch.


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## ric knows paint (Oct 26, 2011)

PBizme said:


> I'm looking at a data sheet for ProClassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Semi-Gloass Enamel and I have some questions.
> 
> It lists a drying time at 77 degrees. I anticipate the temperature being more like 60 degrees where I'm going to be painting so how much longer do I need to expect? If recoat says 4 hours and I wait 24 hours is that going to be fine?
> 
> ...


Hey PB

Obviously the dry time will slow some between 77 and 60 degrees, but still should be able to recoat within a few hours...and it'll be fine to wait 24 hours (or 48 or 72) before recoating. Waiting much longer than that though, you may want to scuff the surface a bit before recoating.

The finish category relates to the level of sheen, or actually light reflection/absorption, from the product applied within 24 hours and 30 days. In this example, the sheen level (or amount of light reflected) is between 27 and 37 units, but 30 days later the sheen has dropped 10 units to between 20 and 30 (in other words, 70 - 80 units of light absorbed by the finish). In this particular measure, say 100 units of light is shone on a painted surface at a 60 degree angle - how many units reflected off that determines how the sheen is classified. Designations are different with each company, but a typical range is: Flats are between 0 and 5 units, Eggshells between 6 and 13 units, satins between 14 and 30, semi-gloss 30 - 40...etc. Remember, each company is different in what they call a flat or egg or semi and some times, the category will be measured at an 85 degree angle instead of 60.

For your project, Pro Classic would be a fine product. Some of these PC products contain both acrylic and alkyd resins, so they kinda have some characteristics of both. Application can be a little tricky at first - It may seem a little "sticky" compared to some acrylic coatings...it may drag a little, applying to heavy will definitely sag. In colder temps, it may not be a bad idea to thin it with just a little bit of water, don't over brush it and it'll flow beautifully. Good luck.


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## ric knows paint (Oct 26, 2011)

ARC Painting said:


> Recoat times are pretty generous on the label, 24 is more than enough. You can recoat once its dry to the touch.


With these "new age" acrylics, and "acrylic/alkyd" blends, you really shouldn't cheat the recommended drying time before recoating. These products cure differently than conventional latexes and coating too soon may cause problems.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

77 degrees seems weird to me. That is over the federal recommended limit for normal heating of a home. You sure? I haven't had a can of SW stuff near me lately and must admit they are so common I don't read the labels. 

Seems strange.


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## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

ric knows paint said:


> With these "new age" acrylics, and "acrylic/alkyd" blends, you really shouldn't cheat the recommended drying time before recoating. These products cure differently than conventional latexes and coating too soon may cause problems.


i agree:yes: . my experiences with pro classic waterborne or waterborne alkyd is your be fine on first coat ,but if you rush the second coat you will be chasing runs and sags:furious:. i went back to a job i did about 3 or 4 years ago on kitchen cabinets, and i must say they looked excellent:yes:. but its not an easy paint to work with, even for the pros. my friend and i who is also a painter call it pro sag. even with that said its still my choice for high end trim or cabnets


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## BraniksPainting (Jan 20, 2012)

PBizme said:


> I'm looking at a data sheet for ProClassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Semi-Gloass Enamel and I have some questions.
> 
> It lists a drying time at 77 degrees. I anticipate the temperature being more like 60 degrees where I'm going to be painting so how much longer do I need to expect? If recoat says 4 hours and I wait 24 hours is that going to be fine?
> 
> ...


I use the ProClassic product quite often and know for sure I've painted in lesser temperatures than what you are looking at. You'll be fine. As some of the others have pointed out, don't rush the second coat. Wait for the required dry time. And yes, it will sag on you if you goop it on. Lay it on evenly, watch the inside corners, gently wipe excess material off with a soft stroke before moving on.


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## PBizme (Aug 4, 2009)

Thanks. Finish being how glossy the paint is makes sense. I'm paranoid about the paint being slightly sticky after everything is said and done based on things I've read online so I wasn't sure if it was something related to a final dry time or something.

Waiting 24 hours or more between coats shouldn't be a problem. I've taken about a month to build the thing so there's no reason to start rushing now


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