# one zone in sprinkler system dead



## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

The other 3 zones work, but when I manually switch it to the 4th zone, no water comes out of the sprinklers. In the proces of digging up the burried/sand/root overgrown valve/wiring......

Heard it could be the solenoid, but could it be the solenoid if 3 zones work?

Thanks


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Each zone valve has its own solenoid. 1 can go bad and has nothing to do with the others. When you find the valve, test for 24 volts at the valve wires to prove toward the valve or back to the controller.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Thanks, niles. I checked and got 24 volts at the valve, on the wire color coded for the disabled zone. So, we have voltage. Could I now try to move the solenoid by hand? Would that prove anything?


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## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

noquacks said:


> Thanks, niles. I checked and got 24 volts at the valve, on the wire color coded for the disabled zone. So, we have voltage. Could I now try to move the solenoid by hand? Would that prove anything?


you didn't say what kind of valve. If voltage their. Now take off 1 wire and use the ohm scale and see it the solenoid winding is open. If you get a reading like when you short the two leed's togother than the winding is good now if no short reading than winding is open. Best to just get a new solenoid. What you can do is change that solenoid with a good one. I know it will work so just get a new solinoid and be done .


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Geez, Del, sounds like your advice is the right way to go, instead of analyzing it to death. The thing is over 20 yrs old. Just looked, and the cover says "Carson Industries". Gonna take a picture of it within minutes, if it helps.......


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Carson industries is the company that made the valve box, not the valve/solenoid inside.

Rainbird, Orbit, Irritol are the big names


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Replacing it can be a pretty extensive job. Yoy have to dig it back several feet on each side of the valve box.

Turn the top of the valve to see if the water flows, I bet it will.

Get a replacement solenoid for your brand.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

heres the picture:


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

rjniles said:


> Each zone valve has its own solenoid. 1 can go bad and has nothing to do with the others. When you find the valve, test for 24 volts at the valve wires to prove toward the valve or back to the controller.


Yes :thumbsup: And good news is Solenoid actuactors for irrigation are relatively cheap. Your valve should have a little hex nut thing on it. If you twist it open, the valve should open and you will be able to water without the timer. 

If a squirrel or some dumber animal dug down and chewed wiring to the actuator, you are temporarily screwed. If you can measure nothing with your tester you should pull and replace the wire run. Something chewed it.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Hmmm, kinda confused- "expensive" job and at the same time "cheap" to replace. Which is it(?)

Either way, I ubderstand on testing it- Lemme go out there right now, and try turning the 'cross" to get that zone to kick in, if thats what yous are suggesting........


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Oh, before I do that- timer box says "Richdel". Is that the valve brand?


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Geez, sorry guys, but my problem is I dont understand what is what. What is the valve in my picture, and what is the solenoid in my picture. Im shooting in the dark now.....


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

The solenoid acuator is that black cylindrical thing with wires coming out the top. Those wires should go back to the timer. As mentioned, your electrical tester should be reading close to decent voltage to the actuator. The actuator could have bought the farm though. The solenoid actuator should come loose easily. Just unthread it. You might want to turn the cutoff valve to the system off but you should not have to.

What is that severed green wire and the splice about, by the way? I actually cannot tell from the photo about how the solenoid is wired. Uncapped wires, even for low voltage, make me cringe a bit. Maybe a real sparky will chime in but I am seeing a lot of wiring for an irrigation valve. Looks some may be legacy and dead? But you say you are getting voltage delivered to the solenoid?

The handle thing is the flow control part of the valve. 

See the little hex nut across from the solenoid? It is the manual override for the valve. If you open it you bypass the solenoid and the valve should open without you having to run back to the the timer to make adjustments. 

Just a thought to pass on. It looks like that valve has some miles on it. Since you are thinking about it anyhow, you might want to invest chimp change in a kit for it to replace o-rings and other rubber type components. I haven't had to rebuild a valve in awhile but I should think the kits would not be more than $10 retail?


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

del schisler said:


> you didn't say what kind of valve. If voltage their. Now take off 1 wire and use the ohm scale and see it the solenoid winding is open. If you get a reading like when you short the two leed's togother than the winding is good now if no short reading than winding is open. Best to just get a new solenoid. What you can do is change that solenoid with a good one. I know it will work so just get a new solinoid and be done .


As mentioned before, new solenoid actuators are not too expensive. Careful not to strip threads removing and reinstalling or you will have to dig and replace that valve. :thumbsup:


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Man, SD, BIG thanks! Now, I got something to go on! Will tackle this when I get home later.......


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

noquacks said:


> Oh, before I do that- timer box says "Richdel". Is that the valve brand?


Could be, Richdel is a sister brand of Irritol (like Ford and Mercury)

Here is a replacement:










http://www.amazon.com/Richdel-Sprinkler-Valve-Solinoid/dp/B0002XH4S6


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

noquacks said:


> Man, SD, BIG thanks! Now, I got something to go on! Will tackle this when I get home later.......


You are most welcome. I should have thought of captioning the photo before burying you in verbage. 

Do be careful with the threads. They will be cut in plastic. If you strip them you are done for. And double check the integrity of the o-ring shown on the photo posted just above. If the actuator has been laying around and it is brittle, all your work will be for nothing. Remember it was an o-ring that caused a space shuttle to explode.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

sdsester said:


> The solenoid acuator is that black cylindrical thing with wires coming out the top. Those wires should go back to the timer. As mentioned, your electrical tester should be reading close to decent voltage to the actuator. The actuator could have bought the farm though. The solenoid actuator should come loose easily. Just unthread it. You might want to turn the cutoff valve to the system off but you should not have to.
> 
> What is that severed green wire and the splice about, by the way? I actually cannot tell from the photo about how the solenoid is wired. Uncapped wires, even for low voltage, make me cringe a bit. Maybe a real sparky will chime in but I am seeing a lot of wiring for an irrigation valve. Looks some may be legacy and dead? But you say you are getting voltage delivered to the solenoid?
> 
> ...


OK, back from work. Fun time. SD, I tested for 24v not at the 2 white wires on the solenoid, but the green and white common for only zone 4, to see if that wire was getting 24 v. Now, you mentioned that loose/broken green wire, and I did notice that, but having JUST gone out there to re inspect, geez, I found where its broken off!! A revelation! It goes into one of the 2 grey cylindrical M-80 looking thingys. Its the one at 12 oclock position, right behind the red cap! What are those mini cans??

yes, solenoid simply unscrews. But for now, Im gonna try to re attach the green wire, OK?

Pls advise......


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Looks like they could be water proof splice covers.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

Yup, looke like the green wire thats ripped off that SD found for us is the culprit (just a guess, as I have not yet conected them)- the other end of it- small/short as it is, is burried inside that silicone squished "can/cap that protects a few wires as they junction inside. The top of the cylinder says Rainbow. 

But Geez, its impossible to remove those wires to re connect them. Hate to just rip them out-


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

noquacks said:


> But Geez, its impossible to remove those wires to re connect them. Hate to just rip them out-


I have never seen an irrigation valve wired like what you have. Those canister things must me waterproofing as suggested and I suppose a sharp razor knife to slice the one you need to get to attach the green wire is in your future. 

What is the brown wire though? Is low voltage lighting running through the same box or near. Not that it matters.

I am concerned. You said your electrical tester is reading 24 volts to the solenoid. My theory that the green severed wire is culprit will not stand if you are getting close to 24V at the solenoid. It does look suspicious though. I would cap it off just to look compliant.


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## noquacks (Jun 5, 2010)

thanks, ssdester. sory for delay- was out of state for 2 weeks +. back to this- I cut into the capped/siliconed wire protector, and re attached the broken off green wire. Turned system on, and no luck. Apparaently it has no affect on the zone 4. 

Not sure what that brown wire is. So confusing. So, I best star with a low cost solenoid at HD. Then go from there.


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