# Audio Visual Room/plans



## isuhunter (May 1, 2014)

We are in the process of redoing our basement. I'm planning to run EMT conduit for a path to my TV and placing all of my AV equipment in the closet under the stairs.

Whats the best way to hook everything up? We will likely have a Playstation or Xbox, cable/direct TV box.

My goal is to only have the TV and Sound bard on the wall. The TV will go across from the stairs. You can see where I have 2 boxes on the wall. that will be for power (a recessed outlet) and a bristle cover so I can run cords through. 

Where is the best place to get HDMI cables about 30'?


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

*Suggestion.*

Any thoughts of having the display mounted to the bedroom wall?


I know for a fact that would allow for a much better speaker placement for a more immersive surround sound speaker set up.

Rear speakers could then be placed on the side walls, roughly 18" or so below the ceiling, as they really should be.

That would also allow for a dual purpose as you could have a game table, or seating that faces the fireplace, along with the seating that faces the TV.

*Regards the HDMI cables, or cables.* 

This is what I would use: http://www.amazon.com/Ethereal-MHZ-HD10-Plated-Active-Ethernet/dp/B00HCS3ZLO/ref=sr_1_4?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1457496846&sr=1-4&refinements=p_4%3AEthereal


But, do you REALLY need a HDMI cable/s that long?

I'd measure so you're not going longer than needed. With HDMI cables, shorter IS better. and you should only need one, since the AVR will do the source switching.


*Another suggestion:

*Run the electrical outlet for the TV to the closet, so that outlet can share power supply from a line conditioner, surge protector that covers the entire system. This can be accomplished using one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-45-0...1457497456&sr=1-2&keywords=datacomm+power+kit


I like the idea of running EMT for the HDMI cable, but you do need to bear in mind the size of the HDMI connector.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

I don't like the idea of the AV equipment opposite to the tv. You will have to run ir extensions to the tv for every piece of equipment you have, otherwise you will have to end up tirning the remote around to turn volume up/down... make adjustments etc. Not only that but you will also need a long run of HDMI cable which is never a good thing.

I would switch it up as Kelly mentioned and put it all on the bedroom wall. This will allow for better speaker placement and it will also give you the opportunity to build a false wall with built in shelving for the AV equipment. You could also have a small door on the side of the false wall for access to behind the tv and av equipment. (do not pay attention to the measurements. It's just a quick drawing and the scale was not set)


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Bob Sanders said:


> I don't like the idea of the AV equipment opposite to the tv. You will have to run ir extensions to the tv for every piece of equipment you have, otherwise you will have to end up turning the remote around to turn volume up/down... make adjustments etc.


That's not really the case Bob. There are many consumer level programmable RF remotes for those cases where the equipment is hidden., so there's no need or IR extensions.



> Not only that but you will also need a long run of HDMI cable which is never a good thing.


While I'll agree that a really long HDMI cable isn't a good idea, something no longer than is needed here, shouldn't be a problem at all, as long as a quality cable such as the Ethereal product, or a HDBT HDMI extension kit is used.


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

I am a Monoprice guy, and I have a 35' Redmere HDMI in my wall/ceiling. It is an active cable, and can go longer than the passive ones.

I also would recommend a programmable remote anyways, and the Harmony stuff has always been good to me. Not cheap at all, but their RF to hub to IR ones work well. I have a Ultimate in my HT and just bought an Elite over the weekend. Both work flawlessly, and none of that line of sight business either.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Monoprice MAY work for you, but then again, it's not a product I personally will sell or endorse. 

That is due to the MAY factor. As professional, I need to know that a product IS going to work.




Similar reason with Harmony, as it's not a pro level product that allows for any custom programming.

I program a remote control system, it will do exactly the same thing ALL the time, whereas a Harmony may or may not.




Both are fine for the DIY market, and as long as you're fine with the limitations, they're okay.


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## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

This is the DIY Chatroom right? :wink2:

It's not fair to compare Harmony's to the remotes that cost 5x the money. Most people I know balk at the price of a $350 remote anyway! :surprise:


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

ktkelly said:


> That's not really the case Bob. There are many consumer level programmable RF remotes for those cases where the equipment is hidden., so there's no need or IR extensions.


I know. I have Harmony. You still have to mess around with the ir/rf hub.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

NickTheGreat said:


> This is the DIY Chatroom right? :wink2:
> 
> It's not fair to compare Harmony's to the remotes that cost 5x the money. Most people I know balk at the price of a $350 remote anyway! :surprise:


It can be more than that depending on how many hubs/blasters you need.


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## FrodoOne (Mar 4, 2016)

isuhunter said:


> We are in the process of redoing our basement. I'm planning to run EMT conduit for a path to my TV and placing all of my AV equipment in the closet under the stairs.
> 
> Whats the best way to hook everything up? We will likely have a Playstation or Xbox, cable/direct TV box.
> 
> ...


In response to your question, Bob Sanders wrote; -
"I don't like the idea of the AV equipment opposite to the TV. You will have to run IR extensions to the TV for every piece of equipment you have"
This is not necessarily so. If you utilise a "Wireless Remote Control Extender", you may place its "Transmitter" in proximity to your TV (on the Sound Bar [?]) with the "Receiver" within "sight" of the AV equipment and so control the AV equipment by pointing any and all Remote Controls "towards" the TV (and the "Remote Control" [signal] transmitter). (e. g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/281792584924)
He also stated "you will also need a long run of HDMI cable which is never a good thing."
YOU stated that you require 30 feet (10 metres) of HDMI Cable. If you "look up" "HDMI Cable Length", you will find that this is NOT regarded as a "long run".

If you wish to place your TV on what I am guessing is a South or West facing wall then do so. You may need to hang drapes, blinds etc. over the glazed openings if you wish to view the TV during daylight hours, but that is a different story.

You have also been urged (by ktkelly - who indicates that he is a "professional") to purchase a 30 foot HDMI cable - at $135. However, quite adequate cables for the purpose can be purchased at between $10 and $20! (Since you asked, the best place to find HDMI cables is Ebay – and note the price variations!)
I will not quote reasons why a “cheap” HDMI cable will work as well as one costing (over) ten times as much, since you can check this yourself by looking up “HDMI Cable Quality”.
If you do have any problems with any particular HDMI cable (cheap or otherwise) just get another one, preferably of a different “brand”. No doubt this is why you are "planning to run EMT conduit for a path to my TV". Just make sure that its diameter is large enough to pull through the terminal of any HDMI cable while accommodating any additional wiring that may be required. 
(However, as has been remarked elsewhere on this site, the HDMI connector is not a particularly robust device and care should be taken with it to ensure that it is inserted carefully and that it is not required to support any strain which may be placed upon it by the associated cable bending or hanging downwards.)

it seems that you may need an “HDMI switch” with several inputs and one output, to switch the HDMI sources over one HDMI cable to your TV. (e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221927685087)
While you mentioned using “a recessed outlet and a bristle cover” I suggest that you consider using a “recessed audio video wall-plate” for your HDMI and any other AV connections. Of course, this will require an HDMI connector plus a short HDMI cable to the TV.

I speak from some experience, in that we are running a set-up with multiple TV program “sources” in a “TV Room” and those “sources” can all be controlled from a nearby bedroom via a “Wireless Remote Control Extender” located near the TV in that bedroom – with that TV being supplied via 3 metre (10 foot) HDMI cable from the “TV Room”. 
(The "TV Room" also has an HDMI 4x2 Matrix Splitter/Switch and an HDMI splitter - feeding the 2 "remote" TVs, one via a Cat 6 HDMI Extender - about 100 feet away. However, that's another story.)


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

What you are wanting to do is similar to what I did.

The space under my stairs is also data central....modem, router, etc.

What is nice about is, I can handle all the wires from the backside without having to pull stuff out.



My home grown HTPC, the Xbox, the Wii (never gets used now) and AV are below the TV. All the wiring is short.


When I did my addition, I ran coax and Cat6 (x2) to each spot where I 'thought' I might want a TV and then Cat6 to any spots where I might want a computer. (Please, no discussion on Wifi vs hardwired)

I have an 'access' panel with wall plates for each location. I also have a 2" conduit running to the existing part of the house so I can fun more 'stuff' as well as a 1" going to the crawl space.


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

FrodoOne said:


> it seems that you may need an “HDMI switch” with several inputs and one output, to switch the HDMI sources over one HDMI cable to your TV. (e.g. http://www.ebay.com/itm/221927685087)
> While you mentioned using “a recessed outlet and a bristle cover” I suggest that you consider using a “recessed audio video wall-plate” for your HDMI and any other AV connections. Of course, this will require an HDMI connector plus a short HDMI cable to the TV.


Most if not all medium and up HVR's already have fairly in-depth HDMI switchers built right into them. If you have done everything correctly there should be no need for an external switcher.



> [He also stated "you will also need a long run of HDMI cable which is never a good thing."
> YOU stated that you require 30 feet (10 metres) of HDMI Cable. If you "look up" "HDMI Cable Length", you will find that this is NOT regarded as a "long run".


Cheap cable (especially at the longer lengths like 30 feet) is unreliable once you get into 3D and 4K tv. I have a 3D tv and we ran into too many problems with the blu ray player not seeing the tv as 3D because of a cheap long run of cable.

Placing your equipment on the same wall as the tv completely eliminates the need for extenders and hubs... ALL of which I have had problems with from switching delays right on over to just plain not working.




ddawg16 said:


> What you are wanting to do is similar to what I did.
> 
> The space under my stairs is also data central....modem, router, etc.
> 
> What is nice about is, I can handle all the wires from the backside without having to pull stuff out.


Well, you have the tv on the same wall while he's talking about the AV equipment being opposite to the tv behind the viewer which leads to some control complications, but yes... being able to handle the cables from the back side is so much easier. I don't think people understand just how much wire and cable there is once you start talking 6 or more speakers (I have 9) and 3 or 4 different video sources.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Taking me to task for recommending the Ethereal DMI cable?


How about he just released Tributaries fiberoptic HDMI cable? It's designed for 4K and it going for $1,350 for a 33' cable.

Why you ask?

Here's a small excerpt from the company press release:

With the arrival of UHD Premium content, 4K/60, 10-bit color with HDR, the necessity of an HDMI cable that can carry data rates of 18Gbps has become critical. The new Samsung Ultra UHD Blu-ray Player is available; UHD Blu-ray discs are available now from Amazon. Currently, Kaleidescape has available for download from their Store UHD Blu-ray movies with HDR/10-bit content. To successfully play this content requires cables capable of transporting data rates of 18Gbps. The days of good'nuf cables are coming to an end. Only cables that are designed, engineered and manufactured to the highest standards using the best components will work in this new world of UHD Premium content. 


You get that new 4K TV and wonder why it won't display a 4K picture?



P.S. FWIW, the Masters WILL be broadcast in 4K this year.


Regarding the remote:

http://www.amazon.com/URC-MX780-Uni...&qid=1457754551&sr=8-3&keywords=urc+rf+remote


http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Rem...F8&qid=1457754724&sr=8-1&keywords=urc+mrf+260


Probably can be had for less on fleabay.


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## isuhunter (May 1, 2014)

Would it be worthwhile to run ethernet when I'll have access to things?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

isuhunter said:


> Would it be worthwhile to run ethernet when I'll have access to things?


Yes....and when in doubt, run more. In relative terms, CAT6 is cheap compared to the labor involved doing it after the fact.

And....you can put it in the walls but don't have to put holes. Just make note of where you have it. Later, if you need it, you can cut a hole and grab it.


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## isuhunter (May 1, 2014)




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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

isuhunter said:


> Would it be worthwhile to run ethernet when I'll have access to things?



If you can buy the pre-made cat6 close to the length you need, yes.

If you're going to try terminating it yourself, unless you have experience with terminating data wiring, cat5e would be what I'd recommend, since doing a proper termination of cat6 is not something the typical DIY'er can do properly where properly terminating cat5e is MUCH easier.


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## isuhunter (May 1, 2014)

That was going to be my next question. I've never put ends on before. I'll talk to the electricians at work and get their thoughts too.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

isuhunter said:


> That was going to be my next question. I've never put ends on before. I'll talk to the electricians at work and get their thoughts too.




I've never known a electrician that oculd terminate cat5, cat5e, let alone cat6.

I think you would be better off just ordering some pre-made like this:

http://www.amazon.com/30ft-ETHERNET-NETWORK-PATCH-CABLE/dp/B0049WIO3U


Estimate the size you need and go for it.


P.S. Bear in mind that data wiring has a bend ratio. Any turns need to make a very gentle sweep, or you'll pretty much have wasted your time.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Good lord.....this is a DIY site.....terminating an Ethernet cable is easier than installing an outlet.

And I find the Cat6 easier to do than Cat5

AND...........

Since we are talking walls, you don't need to crimp plugs on the end....most Ethernet jacks are punch down....you line up the wire with the color code on the jack...and use the punch tool included.

It's so simple even an electrician can do it.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

ddawg16 said:


> Good lord.....this is a DIY site.....terminating an Ethernet cable is easier than installing an outlet.
> 
> And I find the Cat6 easier to do than Cat5
> 
> It's so simple even an electrician can do it.



Wonder why I have to re-terminate so many installations what with it being so easy a caveman can do it.

Ever certify data wiring, or do you think because it works, it's right? 

There IS a huge difference.


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## BocaPaint (Aug 31, 2016)

When can we see pictures of this build done?


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