# Most non-destrucive way to get through joists



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Do you know if they installed the drywall on strapping = 1x's ?
My ceiling is like that & I can thread a snake thru
...not always easy

Its also easier of the cans are in one/two joist bays
That way you only need one hole/wire to join the 2 runs


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

No 1x's - drywall screwed right to the joists.

We're probably going to do a ceiling fan and 4 recessed lights - I think 6 is overkill since the room isn't all that wide, it's mostly long (front to back) with the TV on one of the short walls. I was thinking ceiling fan/light fixture dead center and 2 cans on the TV-side of the fan (in one joist bay) and 2 behind the fan (in another joist bay).

Just not sure the best way to drill the holes without having to patch holes the size of a drill.


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## xxPaulCPxx (Dec 2, 2006)

The easy way to do this is to put horizontal strapping in, them put up your lights and fan box, then put up new drywall to cover the BX wireing between the different fixtures. Since it's flat paint and the lights are recesesed, even the worst taping job will look clean!


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

New drywall on the whole ceiling....that seems like more work than patching holes...


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## xxPaulCPxx (Dec 2, 2006)

Think about all that dinking around in cramped quarters trying to drill, then fish the wires... all of it hidden behind drywall and wood. How long and agravating might that be?

vs.

New wood 1x3 over existing drywall. Make big holes in that drywall for your recessed cans, take the time and care to place them perfectly. Make a big hole for the ceiling fan a secur it exactly were you want. Make a small hole in the drywall of the wall where you need to fish the wire down to a switchbox. Wire everything with BX and staple it to the sides of the 1x3. Cover everthing with new drywall - with holes exactly where you want them made conveniently on the floor. You should only have to mud the shallow seams - no butt joints that are hard to do. That is the easiest drywalling you will EVER do!

Done, and it looks and works perfect.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Good point...only issue is that room shares a ceiling with 2 other rooms (dining room and foyer) and each of those have light fixtures already...


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## xxPaulCPxx (Dec 2, 2006)

Well... good luck on your drywall patching skills then!


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## goose134 (Nov 4, 2007)

Here is what you need. Forget re-rocking your entire ceiling. WTF?

http://www.greenlee.com/archive/ma5239.pdf


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

Be careful drilling blind. There can be ductwork, plumbing and electric lines stapled to the joist that you can't see.

You could just make one 6" wide trench cut perpendicular to the joists and patch that.


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

I'm sorry xxPaulCPxx, but you are WAY off base here. To suggest to a DIYer to re-rock his whole ceiling to avoid patching a couple holes is crazy and out of line.

secutanudu, get yourself a long bit, HomeDepot or Lowes has them. I'd suggest the 9/16" bit since it's got a 4' shaft (easier to use than the 5' or 6') and the shaft is a bit thinner so it's more flexible.

Find your joists, then drill a small hole centered between them. Take a small mirror on a stick (auto parts store has them) and look up each hole in both directions, you'll be able to see each side of every joist to see if any wiring is stapled to it or pipes are running thru, etc. If everything is clear, push the long bit up thru the hole and into the joist, you'll have the maneuver it around so it's going thru the center of the joist, then push the bit in and upwards so that the flexible shaft bends and the bit is going thru the joist relatively straight. Drill away and repeat this on every joist. Then take a short piece of fishtape (or wire hanger) and fish a string thru the holes you made in each joist, then tie romex on and pull, a second person helps here.

Now all you'll have are some small holes to patch. If you drilled the holes in your ceiling with a hole saw, you can just take that plug and reinsert it in the hole with a piece of wood on the back to hold it in. Then go over it with a good setting compound, this method will relieve you from having to use tape and taper in a big patch.

I've done this method upwards of 400 times (high hats, ceiling fans, etc.), never had a problem.


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

Jim and Proby have great answers..done it both ways. Came across a customer one time who detested dust. So I cut the holes for the lights holding a shopvac. Next I cut the holes for the Romex runs at the edges of the ceiling. Got a crown molding job out of it too and no patching.


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

canadaclub said:


> Jim and Proby have great answers..done it both ways. Came across a customer one time who detested dust. So I cut the holes for the lights holding a shopvac.


 If you need to do it again, they make hole cutters with dust shields, not a spec of dust gets past :thumbsup:


> Next I cut the holes for the Romex runs at the edges of the ceiling. Got a crown molding job out of it too and no patching.


That's a good idea too, I always ask the customer if they have any plans on putting crown molding up in the future.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

I cut a square out on every other joist that I need to get across.
I can then see both sides of that joist, and the one next to it, then use a long bit, or my pistel grip drill.
After you are finnished, screw the cut out peice back to the joist and tape and mud.


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

jbfan said:


> I cut a square out on every other joist that I need to get across.
> I can then see both sides of that joist, and the one next to it, then use a long bit, or my pistel grip drill.
> After you are finnished, screw the cut out peice back to the joist and tape and mud.


So you put the drill thru the square opening underneath joist A to drill thru joist B, correct? If so, this is a good idea, I am going to try that next time.

What size hole do you normally make? I'm thinking that a hole saw (3"-4") might work well and save some labor and dust if you use a cover.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

I have a rigid pistal grip and use a 1/2 stubby wood bit to get the close holes, and if you cut the hole big enough, you can get your hand and drill inside the space for the next joist.

I just cut a square because drywall repair is by others!


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## Fox (Mar 1, 2010)

jbfan said:


> I cut a square out on every other joist that I need to get across.
> I can then see both sides of that joist, and the one next to it, then use a long bit, or my pistel grip drill.
> After you are finnished, screw the cut out peice back to the joist and tape and mud.


I was reading about using the hole saw that I thought was pretty spiffy, but this idea is a hell of a sight easier for putting the chunk back in place, even if it _is_ a bigger chunk.

I've been cutting 1-2" square holes on each side of the joist (unless it was an end or turn) and just using paint stirrers broken to length to back the drywall holes. (I have to pre-drill the screw holes or it just doesn't work)

Proby, I don't follow: a 3-4" hole saw cut centered below the joist? These are 2x# joists? (I'm working primarily with I-joists and don't recall their width) That leaves about 1.25" on each side of the joist. I don't have any tools that could drill through a joist using that much space. I'd have to drill at a 45 degree angle, maybe steeper. (And that's just no good) Please expound. (Heck, after this I'm considering going out and getting some pretty big hole saws)


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## Proby (Jul 17, 2010)

A 2X joist will be 1.5" wide. If you drill a 4" hole underneath it, you'll have over an inch on each side. Thru that hole you can slide up a long flexible bit which can span over to the *next* joist. Meaning, you use the hole under joist A to drill thru joist B. Even tho you are coming in at an angle, if you push up on your flexible bit it should bent enough to drill thru the joist straight.


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