# Sherwin-Williams Flat Superpaint Striping On Ceiling



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Sherwin-Williams Flat Superpaint Striping On Ceiling

We just had all our first floor rooms painted by a paint contractor. All the walls and ceilings are Level 5 smooth. All the walls and the kitchen ceiling were painted with Sherwin-Williams Emerald satin paint in Greek Villa (cool white). The paint on all the walls and kitchen ceiling was applied by cutting in and rolling with a 1/4” nap Wooster roller sleeve. The results were excellent.

For the large 24’ x 14’ ceiling we went with Sherwin-Williams flat Superpaint in Greek Villa (cool white) to match the color of the walls. Prior to painting this ceiling received a tight skim coat of drywall compound to create a new level 5 finish. At the recommendation of the Sherwin-Williams sales representative a single coat of Sherwin-Williams Premium Wall & Wood Primer was sprayed on the skim coat surface. Next two coats of Sherwin-Williams Flat Superpaint were sprayed on and the finish when dry had a stripped appearance where the spray pattern overlapped.

The paint contractor said he has never experienced this before and I asked the Sherwin-Williams sales representative to stop by and suggest a remedy. He suggested that the paint should be sprayed perpendicular to the light entering the room (parallel to the windows) and back rolled right behind the spraying. This was done yesterday and now we have the same striping going parallel to the windows.

Has anyone ever seen this before? Is flat Superpaint problematic in this application with a lot of light entering the room through the windows? I found two comments on Paint Talk that makes me wonder if Superpaint is the problem.

http://www.painttalk.com/f2/ceiling-paints-20346/#post338170

http://www.painttalk.com/f6/flat-ceiling-showing-roller-marks-24910/index2/#post428862


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

sounds like an application problem to me


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

It's unusual to have problems with FLAT paint on a level 5 skim coated finish, so, I agree with Chris that an application problem is the cause here. Also, heat pools at a ceiling so if it was a hot day, the paint dried almost as fast as it was put on. I don't use SuperPaint on ceilings, I usually use Promar 200 or 400 as they are more of a DEAD flat. PPG also makes a great flat ceiling paint, although this info is little help to you now. Pics would help.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Gymschu said:


> It's unusual to have problems with FLAT paint on a level 5 skim coated finish, so, I agree with Chris that an application problem is the cause here. Also, heat pools at a ceiling so if it was a hot day, the paint dried almost as fast as it was put on. I don't use SuperPaint on ceilings, I usually use Promar 200 or 400 as they are more of a DEAD flat. PPG also makes a great flat ceiling paint, although this info is little help to you now. Pics would help.


The current plan is for them to come back and spray with a so called enamel tip without back rolling. We are open to using a different ceiling paint that is dead flat. I will try and post a photo tomorrow of the striping. Which PPG flat ceiling paint are you referring to?


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

This is what I use but I don't know how well it sprays. I know it rolls on as a dead flat.


----------



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

super paint flat is my every day ceiling paint .there is a very slight angle sheen ,but that has never been a problem or questioned by my clients:huh:. personally I could have rolled out that ceiling with a 9 inch roller and a 1/2 inch micro fiber cover in under an hour , along with the other brush and roller painters on this site.no lap marks perfect .as for the other room using a 1/4 nap cover well I don't know ,I think you just got lucky.Ok with that said if you do spray you still have to back roll anyways .a soft stipple is desirable IMHO:thumbsup:


----------



## bilug (Apr 16, 2014)

Get SW ProMar 400 flat. It's a ceiling - no need to get anything else.
I'd use nothing shorter than a 3/4" roller to backroll and don't skimp when spraying the paint on.
Wall paint should ALWAYS be backrolled on interiors. I've seen jobs where the initial paint was not done right - and getting rid of the roller marks is nearly impossible without a dead flat backrolled.

And a competent backroller and spray applicator are key.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Gymschu said:


> This is what I use but I don't know how well it sprays. I know it rolls on as a dead flat.


have they changed the can? I have not seen that one before


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

As you can see there are many different opinions. And opinions are like rear ends everybody has one and most of them stink. So I guess I will add mine and you can pick the one you like best.

First I can't believe you got that lucky doing walls with a 1/4" roller. I never use super paint on ceilings. I have never heard of an enamel tip. The stripping could have been caused by a couple things too small a tip, a blown tip, or not overlapping enough. Should be 50% overlap. Unless it's new drywall I usually don't bankroll ceilings. A 3/4" nap roller for a ceiling is way too much nothing over 1/2".

I guess my next thing is why would you pay the super high price for a level 5 finish and then put flat paint over it. Level 5 was designed for like hospitals and schools where the lighting is extreme. Then painted with gloss or semi gloss paint so the finish has to be perfect as everything would show. Kinda got off topic sorry.


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

chrisn said:


> have they changed the can? I have not seen that one before


Chris, unfortunately for me, the only place that carries PPG paint is Menard's and I am guessing that is the labeling used specifically for Menard's which is like Lowes and HD only better in my opinion. 

On a side note: I dread painting ceilings. Not because they are terribly difficult but because the lighting/angular sheen sure can make a disaster over what should be a part of the job that looks great. Nothing makes me cringe more than unexpected overlaps on a ceiling.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

A lot of this thread confuses me. Level 5 ceilings to prepare for flat paint? 1/4" roller covers? 3/4" roller covers? What's going on here?

I've used plenty of SuperPaint Extra White flat on ceilings and never had a problem, so I can't be of much help in solving. I guess the only thing that strikes me is that this all sounds kind of overengineered and overcomplicated, which might be contributing problems. It's not a huge ceiling, why not just roll that paint straight on with a 14" roller? Obviously spraying has some great benefits, but in this case could just lead to premature drying, or incorrect overlapping. This is in a situation where you're going to be rolling anyway. I'd just put on a generous, wet coat. Although at this point, I suppose it's possible there are some ridge marks left by backrolling that are showing through? Using a short nap cover for a painting job like this (1/4") might lead to pressing too hard with the roller, potentially leaving edge marks.


----------



## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

ltd said:


> super paint flat is my every day ceiling paint .there is a *very slight angle sheen* ,but that has never been a problem or questioned by my clients:huh:. personally I could have rolled out that ceiling with a 9 inch roller and a 1/2 inch micro fiber cover in under an hour , along with the other brush and roller painters on this site.no lap marks perfect .as for the other room using a 1/4 nap cover well I don't know ,I think you just got lucky.Ok with that said if you do spray you still have to back roll anyways .a soft stipple is desirable IMHO:thumbsup:


And that is more than likely the problem here. On a ceiling that is 24' in and one direction you want a dead flat paint unless you are trying to highlight a texture. That's almost the same as sighting down a long hallway with your head up against the wall. You are always going to see something. In my opinion that ceiling really should have had a texture and should have had a dead flat paint.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Here are two photographs of the striping (banding). It was difficult to capture due to overcast lighting from outside.





















Here are a few photographs of the walls. There are no roller marks and the painter was able to apply a nice consistent finish with the 1/4” nap roller sleeve.


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I've always found that rolling parallel to the critical light source helped more that rolling perpendicular to obscure roller tracks. Also, having the finish roller strokes all in the same direction will help with flashing. It doesn't usually matter with flat paint, but with that much light and a super smooth ceiling...


What it looks like to me is regular old flashing caused by back and forth rolling, with no overlap to ensure the final strokes all went the same way.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

So far there are lots of different opinions. I would like to talk with Rbriggs82 over on Paint Talk since he had a similar problem with a ceiling using Superpaint, but that forum is only for professional painters.

Today I received e-mails from two licensed painting contractors who have seen the job before it was painted.

This first comment is from the painter who also saw the initial striping from the first application of two coats of S-W flat Superpaint. They are recommending KM #1005 flat paint for a dead flat paint.

_“I have a sneaky suspicion that it’s the paint, its so reminiscent of the striping I had experienced with another one of S-W products. My suggestion is to use seal grip primer from BM and use a different paint.”_

This is the comment from the second painter:

_“I don't use a lot of super paint flat. So I don't know a lot about it. My favorite flat paint is Kelly Moore's 550. My only suggestion would be to make sure that the tip on the spraygun is new so it won't streak. When the tip is knew it will not streak. When the tip is old are worn out it will streak and stripe. So many painters these days try to get as many gallons out of the tip that they can. That is the only thing that I can recommend. You should not have that problem when you back roll, though. I am really lost on that large ceiling. I have never seen anything like this in my whole 43 years of painting.”_


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Jmayspaint said:


> What it looks like to me is regular old flashing caused by back and forth rolling, with no overlap to ensure the final strokes all went the same way.


I was not in the room when they were back rolling. I understand your point about back and forth rolling. I will ask about this. You might be on to something.


----------



## Danahy (Feb 23, 2014)

Assuming that the walls and ceiling were skimmed with equal quality and the same colour was used on both, but the only difference is brand type and sheen. I'm wondering about the formula of that colour. "Cool" tends to have a hint of blue where I'm from and blue tint has a sheen to it. If the tints used have sheen mixed in with a dead flat base this can sometimes cause those mysterious up/down marks seen against a window reflection. BM ultimate used to have this issue frequently years ago before Aura. 
Mix often, change ceiling colours, change sheens, change brands, roll one way, put up texture, lower the room temperature, alter techniques of application. Lots of good choices. 

Good luck and hope it all works out.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Danahy said:


> Assuming that the walls and ceiling were skimmed with equal quality and the same colour was used on both, but the only difference is brand type and sheen. I'm wondering about the formula of that colour. "Cool" tends to have a hint of blue where I'm from and blue tint has a sheen to it. If the tints used have sheen mixed in with a dead flat base this can sometimes cause those mysterious up/down marks seen against a window reflection. BM ultimate used to have this issue frequently years ago before Aura.
> Mix often, change ceiling colours, change sheens, change brands, roll one way, put up texture, lower the room temperature, alter techniques of application. Lots of good choices.
> 
> Good luck and hope it all works out.


This is the color we are using:

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...rs/paint-colors-by-family/SW7551-greek-villa/


----------



## bilug (Apr 16, 2014)

Spray pattern is a function of pressure - using a new tip may still give fingers in the pattern if the pressure is not adjusted properly.

I like a thick roller to keep the paint wet while rolling. Plus it's on a pole....so you can really roll large areas without going back and forth too much. I found using anything less made the job harder to work.

I hope you get your problem solved.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I will send a PM to Riggs and have hime come over.


----------



## rbriggs82 (Mar 4, 2013)

Good morning DIYchatroom! Yes I too had this exact same problem with Superpaint which was tinted to Sherwin Williams Croissant. I'm not really sure if it was the paint itself or because it was a mixed color and not just extra white. 

Same deal though, medium sized ceiling with lots of critical light and I rolled parallel to the windows with a 1/2inch nap, it striped like crazy. 

The fix was rather easy I switched to the paint I've always used on ceilings prior and still do to this day, Sherwin Williams master hide. I can't remember if I gave it one or two coats but I can tell you afterwards the ceiling looked like it should and the striping was gone. :yes:
Master hide is about as dead of a flat as you can get 0-2 units @85° which is what you want, especially on a critical light ceiling. 

Hope that helps!


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

If they're not already, using an 18" or even a 14" always helps with roller marks. Twice the roller = half the laps.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Yeah, I mentioned 14" rather than 18" just because 18" can be a serious chore when holding it over your head full of paint on a ceiling for an hour. But 18" would technically be preferred.


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

jeffnc said:


> Yeah, I mentioned 14" rather than 18" just because 18" can be a serious chore when holding it over your head full of paint on a ceiling for an hour. But 18" would technically be preferred.



Yes, an 18" can be a beast to handle overhead. What I'll ofter do for back rolling is use an 18" nap on a 14" frame. Its kinda floppy that way, but if your just back rolling and not having to dip, it works pretty well. Gives you the width of the 18" and the ability to roll tight with an open ended frame. Load the nap with the sprayer and its good to go.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I'm wondering if an 18" cover on a 14" frame would cause problems in control, where the pressure on one end of the roller actually contributes to creating edges.....


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

jeffnc said:


> I'm wondering if an 18" cover on a 14" frame would cause problems in control, where the pressure on one end of the roller actually contributes to creating edges.....



I'm sure the potential is there, especially if your not used to using a larger roller. I doubt it would work at all for dip rolling.


----------



## ltd (Jan 16, 2011)

jeffnc said:


> A lot of this thread confuses me. Level 5 ceilings to prepare for flat paint? 1/4" roller covers? 3/4" roller covers? What's going on here?
> 
> I've used plenty of SuperPaint Extra White flat on ceilings and never had a problem, so I can't be of much help in solving. I guess the only thing that strikes me is that this all sounds kind of overengineered and overcomplicated, which might be contributing problems. It's not a huge ceiling, why not just roll that paint straight on with a 14" roller? Obviously spraying has some great benefits, but in this case could just lead to premature drying, or incorrect overlapping. This is in a situation where you're going to be rolling anyway. I'd just put on a generous, wet coat. Although at this point, I suppose it's possible there are some ridge marks left by backrolling that are showing through? Using a short nap cover for a painting job like this (1/4") might lead to pressing too hard with the roller, potentially leaving edge marks.


 yes,yes ,and yes .id bang it out with a standard roller ,but yes this is the answerer. really guys 14x24 ceiling we do it all the time it not that big IMHO :thumbsup:


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

I am still waiting to hear back from my painter and the Sherwin-Williams rep. I will pass everyone's comments along to my painter. Thanks so much for your input and I will followup if we are successful with the repaint.


----------



## taylorjm (Apr 11, 2013)

I was helping a friend paint his house and had the exact same problem. He first was using Behr interior white flat paint, and rolled it on and had streaks like crazy. I figured we rushed it or something, did a second coat, same thing. Then he got some of the behr premium plus flat paint, had the same issue, but not as bad. The other weird part was that a couple areas where the drywall seams were taped with the paper tape, it would start to bubble under the tape, but once the paint dried, it looked fine. That ceiling was the only time I ever had an issue like that. I always used ceiling paint, and multiple brands, and never had streaking like this. No idea what caused it.


----------



## JMDPainting (Sep 7, 2009)

rbriggs82 said:


> Good morning DIYchatroom! Yes I too had this exact same problem with Superpaint which was tinted to Sherwin Williams Croissant. I'm not really sure if it was the paint itself or because it was a mixed color and not just extra white.
> 
> Same deal though, medium sized ceiling with lots of critical light and I rolled parallel to the windows with a 1/2inch nap, it striped like crazy.
> 
> ...


Yup, we use Master hide on all our ceilings, new construction, spray on , back roll with an 18" 3/8 nap cover. Never had an issue. Just wear long sleeves and a hat though , it sprinkles like crazy.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

I am not a painter, but I believe a significant part of the problem is flat Superpaint with a slight sheen combined with a very smooth ceiling and large windows illuminating the ceiling. I see some here have had the same problem. Our painter wants to try and spray and back roll again with an 18” roller this time and possibly with another paint. I am thinking of trying Sherwin Williams Eminence flat ceiling paint tinted to Greek Villa to match our walls instead of the flat Superpaint that use used previously.

*http://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...talog/eminence-high-performance-ceiling-paint*

Maybe we should add Latex X-tender or Floetrol to keep the paint from drying too fast.


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Emminence, I don't like Emminence on ceilings. It's worse than SuperPaint on flat ceilings.


----------



## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

The contractor should be back rolling to begin with if he's spraying.


----------



## rbriggs82 (Mar 4, 2013)

Gymschu said:


> Emminence, I don't like Emminence on ceilings. It's worse than SuperPaint on flat ceilings.


Agreed, Emminence is the worst. :yes:


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I actually like Eminence, but I doubt it will be the cure for this situation. It also has just a tad of sheen, especially if its tinted, and can flash if not applied just right. 

Seems to me like a situation where you need cheap, dead flat paint. Master Hide as mentioned previously would fit the bill IMO.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

housepaintingny said:


> The contractor should be back rolling to begin with if he's spraying.


Should or should not?


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Should, and I like the Eminence too. Anytime you spray you should bankroll, I guess I should say almost anytime you spray. The reason for this is, say on this ceiling if in the future you need to do a small repair, no matter how much you make the repair perfect, it will show really bad unless you spray it. By bankrolling you add a stipple to the paint. This way a repair can be made, then using a roller it will blend in with the rest of the ceiling


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

It's just that he said "to begin with", and that's usually what you say when you mean you shouldn't be doing something. Looked like a typo.


----------



## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

jeffnc said:


> It's just that he said "to begin with", and that's usually what you say when you mean you shouldn't be doing something. Looked like a typo.


I said to begin with, because the contractor should have been back rolling from the beginning of the project when he/she was spraying the ceiling.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Gotcha.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Thanks everyone for the feedback. The general consensus is to not use Sherwin Williams Eminence. Looks like we will try spraying flat Superpaint again and back roll with an 18" 1/4" nap roller sleeve. I will post the results after the ceiling is painted.


BTW, I have not received and e-mail notifications when someone has responded to this thread. I just check once a day to see if there are any responses.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I still think 1/4" roller is part of the problem. This is a fairly large ceiling and 1/4" is a very short nap roller. When the sprayer guy goes across the ceiling what tip he uses will determine how much paint he is putting on. Then the one following comes along with this short nap roller, before he gets half way across it's full of paint. Now it can't do it's job, this can cause stripping. 

Move up to a 1/2" roller cover and scrap the excess paint out of it with a 5n1 tool after a couple of trips across the room. If this is a re-paint with stipple already on the ceiling it may not need to be back rolled.

You need to subscribe to a thread to get notifications (I think)


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> I still think 1/4" roller is part of the problem. This is a fairly large ceiling and 1/4" is a very short nap roller. When the sprayer guy goes across the ceiling what tip he uses will determine how much paint he is putting on. Then the one following comes along with this short nap roller, before he gets half way across it's full of paint. Now it can't do it's job, this can cause stripping.
> 
> Move up to a 1/2" roller cover and scrap the excess paint out of it with a 5n1 tool after a couple of trips across the room. If this is a re-paint with stipple already on the ceiling it may not need to be back rolled.
> 
> You need to subscribe to a thread to get notifications (I think)


Thanks, I will talk with the painter about your suggestions.

Regarding notification, I am subscribed.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Does anyone have an opinion on Kelly Moore 550 flat paint for the ceiling? I would have it tinted to match the wall color. My painter is suggesting this.


----------



## rbriggs82 (Mar 4, 2013)

1/2 nap + masterhide = problem solved.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

rbriggs82 said:


> 1/2 nap + masterhide = problem solved.


Unfortunately Masterhide is not available in California.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> I still think 1/4" roller is part of the problem. This is a fairly large ceiling and 1/4" is a very short nap roller. When the sprayer guy goes across the ceiling what tip he uses will determine how much paint he is putting on. Then the one following comes along with this short nap roller, before he gets half way across it's full of paint. Now it can't do it's job, this can cause stripping.
> 
> Move up to a 1/2" roller cover and scrap the excess paint out of it with a 5n1 tool after a couple of trips across the room. If this is a re-paint with stipple already on the ceiling it may not need to be back rolled.
> 
> You need to subscribe to a thread to get notifications (I think)


What size spray tip do you recommend?


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I would probably go with a Graco X 410 this is a smaller tip an 8" fan and be sure to overlap 50%. With the smaller tip you can move a little slower so you can watch your overlap and build a little better.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> I would probably go with a Graco X 410 this is a smaller tip an 8" fan and be sure to overlap 50%. With the smaller tip you can move a little slower so you can watch your overlap and build a little better.


Thanks, I really appreciate all the feedback. I will pass this information along to the painter. We just need to decide upon a paint now.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

We repainted the ceiling yesterday with Benjamin Moore Ultra Flat Ceiling Paint. The painter sprayed first and back rolled using an 18” roller sleeve with a 3/8” nap. The paint dried dead flat with one coat eliminating the striping of the Sherwin-Williams flat Superpaint. Unfortunately, about 45 minutes later 8 bubbles formed of varying sizes.

The Benjamin Moore Ultra Flat Ceiling Paint appears to be a very good dead flat ceiling paint, but we are perplexed as to why the bubbles formed. The underlying Superpaint was applied two weeks ago and the spray lines were purged of any water before spraying. The bubbles predominately appeared in the last half of the 14’ x 24’ ceiling. I will remove the bubbles, repair the surfaces and ask the painter to apply the Benjamin Moore Ultra Flat Ceiling Paint again.

Does anyone have any thoughts as to why the bubbles may have formed?


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Usually when that has happened to me (bubbles) I attribute it to drywall dust, or some other contaminant on the original surface. Something about that final coat drying pulled loose some areas that weren't bonded well to begin with.

It happened to me on a repaint last week actually. Sometimes they will go away in a day or so. Might want to cut them out and fix them, but then your into doing the whole ceiling again. If they go back down on there own, they will probably stay down. At least till the next paint job maybe.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Jmayspaint said:


> Usually when that has happened to me (bubbles) I attribute it to drywall dust, or some other contaminant on the original surface. Something about that final coat drying pulled loose some areas that weren't bonded well to begin with.
> 
> It happened to me on a repaint last week actually. Sometimes they will go away in a day or so. Might want to cut them out and fix them, but then your into doing the whole ceiling again. If they go back down on there own, they will probably stay down. At least till the next paint job maybe.


 There should not be any contaminates on the ceiling. No work has been done in the room since the last repaint two weeks ago.

I will give it a few days, but there are several bubbles I do not believe will go completely flat. It will be interesting to see the underlying surface when I remove the bubble’s skin.


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Fire4Effect said:


> There should not be any contaminates on the ceiling. No work has been done in the room since the last repaint two weeks ago.



I was meaning under the original coat. Usually when it bubbles like that its down all the way to Sheetrock. Hopefully you won't have to find out.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Jmayspaint said:


> I was meaning under the original coat. Usually when it bubbles like that its down all the way to Sheetrock. Hopefully you won't have to find out.


I cut open a bubble this morning and see all the paint layers separated from the drywall skim coat. Interesting that this did not happen on the first two paintings of the ceiling. I guess each repaint softens the paint all the way to the skim coat and if there is dust a bubble can form from the weight of the wet paint.

I remember when this painter first arrived I asked him if the skim coated ceiling needed to be dusted off before priming. He told me no because the pressure from the sprayer would blow off the drywall dust.

Since this paint is dead flat I am wondering if I can cut out the bubbles, repair the surfaces, and do a touch up without having them spray and back roll the entire ceiling again.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Fire4Effect said:


> I cut open a bubble this morning and see all the paint layers separated from the drywall skim coat. Interesting that this did not happen on the first two paintings of the ceiling. I guess each repaint softens the paint all the way to the skim coat and if there is dust a bubble can form from the weight of the wet paint.
> 
> I remember when this painter first arrived I asked him if the skim coated ceiling needed to be dusted off before priming. He told me no because the pressure from the sprayer would blow off the drywall dust.:laughing::laughing::laughing:
> 
> Since this paint is dead flat I am wondering if I can cut out the bubbles, repair the surfaces, and do a touch up without having them spray and back roll the entire ceiling again.


 that should work just fine


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Since they back rolled yes you should be able to touch it up. But really I would get ahold of the painter. After what he told you the least he should do is come back and spray the repairs for you.


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Tip shear can be a problem when trying to touch up a sprayed finish. Being forced through a spray tip often changes the paints sheen slightly. It having been back rolled does help, and its not always a big deal with flat. But with your lighting conditions I wouldn't count on perfect touch up. At least as 'perfect' as what you seem to be looking for.


----------



## Fire4Effect (Jul 29, 2008)

Jmayspaint said:


> Tip shear can be a problem when trying to touch up a sprayed finish. Being forced through a spray tip often changes the paints sheen slightly. It having been back rolled does help, and its not always a big deal with flat. But with your lighting conditions I wouldn't count on perfect touch up. At least as 'perfect' as what you seem to be looking for.


I appreciate the feedback. I will start repairing the bubbles tomorrow and try and paint one with a 3/8" nap roller sleeve to see how it looks. Any pro tips for touch up in this situation?


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

The word "touch-up" usually makes any pro painter's knees buckle. Why you say? Because you have to match any spots EXACTLY to the surrounding area. Impossible? No, but, it is real, real tough. The process has to emulate the exact way the paint was applied in the first place. Mud/spackle has to be primed and allowed to dry. Then the same coats of paint must be applied to the patched areas that were applied to the rest of the ceiling. More often than not, a complete recoat is necessary to properly blend in what was patched. Just my two cents'.


----------

