# Drainage around shed on slab



## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

I just re-sided a shed in our backyard. Drainage, mud spatter and termite damages were issues at play. Our backyard doesn't flood, nor does water stand nest to the shed slab (for long). AFAIK, the biggest issue may be just the mud spatter. At any rate, now that I've replaced the siding, I'd like to handle the water damage prevention issue properly.

*Facts:*

*1.* The rot was present when we bought the house about 5 years ago and grew worse. We treated for termites immediately.

*2.* There was a 100 year old magnolia tree in the backyard and no grass grew near the front of the shed. We had to have the tree cut down last year, and grass is now growing.

*3.* The patio stones in the older image were placed to handle the mud issue and _will not be re-placed_.

*4.* The shed will be painted, but this week is rainy, so it will have to wait.

*5. *The corrugated tin roof overhangs the shed by about 6" on all sides. I removed the soffits. I plan to replace the roof (wood and tin) with treated wood, corrugated (retaining overhangs) and flashing (I have yet to determine the best way to do it, but the original soffit in the front allowed water damage to roof members).

*6. *The slab is right at grade, which places the siding a bit below grade. Water does not stand around the slab for any notable length of time in spite of the heavy rains we get, nor does the shed or backyard flood. In the newer image, I have trenched a few inches deep to deal with the siding.

I've thought about placing visqueen or weed mat and river rock in the trench. Again, water doesn't stand around the slab. 

Thanks for your ideas,
Bob.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... I'd go with a longer over-hang on the new roof,....

Lowerin' the grade to below the sidin' would be Best,....
Then put down some fabric, 'n stone to get rid of the mud,....

A sheet of flashin', under the bottom of the sidin', might also help,....


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## BrowneBearLLC (Apr 8, 2015)

What you have is very common, I would say put a bead of sealant along the bottom plate where it touches the concrete. Next, I would do everything possible to make sure that you have air flow and sun to keep things dry. A little pea stone may help also … why? It keeps the dirt off the wood, gives what little water you get a place to sit, does not allow the bugs a direct way to the wood and it heats up when the sun is out to help dry thing out.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

T-111 never should be any closer then 6" to grade.
What should have been done is install flashing to the studs at least 6" up the wall and out over the slab and ran below grade, then 1 X 6" PVC lumber, Z molding then the siding.
No way is caulking to to work.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Thanks for your responses. The 1x6 PVC is probably the best way to go. Could you please elaborate on the type of stud flashing (sheet metal, rubber wrap...?) and "Z molding"? Does the Z Molding require some kind of trim or further treatment?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The 1 X 6 PVC needed to be installed first, before the T-11 went on, only way to do it now is to cut the siding.
I also would have sealed the end grain and up the back side of the panels before installing with whatever finish you plan on.
Right now you have open end grain that's going to wick up water and just form a ladder for insects.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bot...m%2FBestPractices%2FWall_Flashing.htm;371;330


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

joecaption said:


> only way to do it now is to cut the siding.


That's the plan. Thanks to you and all for the information.


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