# Removing old fake wood and putting up drywall



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

I have the fake wood up in my basement.
What I don't understand is, I'm assuming this stuff is very thin, like 1/8-1/4" thick, and drywall is thicker, how do I remove the old stuff, put up drywall and expect it to line up with the wood around the windows and doors since it will be thicker than what the fake wood was?

Also, if I have a suspended ceiling already up. Do I have to remove it? Or would I just put the dryway to where the ceiling starts?


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

You will need to make jamb extensions for the windows (add wood strips) to bring them out to the proper thickness. If the doors are interior pre-hung, they will have a 2 piece "slip" jamb that will adjust for the additional thickness of the drywall. If not you will need to extend those jambs also. The wall angle for the suspended ceiling is nailed/screwed through the wood on the walls into the studs. In order to leave the ceiling, you will have to cut the wood all the way around the perimeter of the ceiling. It could be done then hang and finish the walls, then add a trim piece around the ceiling....


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

So by jamb, does that mean like a wedge, so the outter part is 'raised' but the inner part is still flush with the window/door?

So the easiest/best way to do around the ceiling would be to unscrew, remove part of the hanging ceiling near the wall, and put the drywall up past the ceiling, then re screw in the ceiling? THat would probably make painting easier too I guess.

THanks for the help.


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

After you remove the trim, the jamb (frame) for the doors/windows will likely be 3/4" wide. Glue/nail strips the appropriate thickness you need (probably 1/4" for 1/2" drywall) around the entire frame, no "wedge". Keep your "extension" flush with the inside of the jamb so any minor gaps can be caulked and painted. Hang the drywall to the jamb, replace your trim. You COULD do the ceiling the way you propose one side at a time, as long as it is secured on the opposite side with pop rivets (the cross tees to the wall angle). You will have to drill out any existing rivets. The tees you remove to get the drywall behind the ceiling will have to be trimmed to fit, IF you can get them out without bending them. The "locking system" on many grid systems makes disassembly difficult. That's why I suggested a trim around the top. Cut the paneling with a sawzall or such as close as possible to the grid. Hang and finish your rock and put a flat trim up around the ceiling.


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

Shoot, I forgot I would have to trim the ceiling since the drywall will be coming out a bit further.
Thanks for the help I appreciate it. My room I'm looking to do is about 20' x 20' with a 72" fireplace top to bottom on one wall with a couple small windows, and the entrance which is about 14" on the opposite wall. It seems pretty straight forward, and I think I would try it myself, but get someone to mud and tape for me, as I didn't do a very good job on my bathroom when I did it myself.
What do you think the total cost would be for me? Roughly. Under $1000?

Oh and one more question. It would be pretty hard, but I could probalby move everything into another room.
Would it be okay if I moved everything to one side of the room. Drywall that half, then move everything to that side, and do the other side? Or willl I get too much dust everywhere like that?

Thanks again.


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sorry, but I couldn't even begin to give a "guesstimate" on price,"sight unseen", especially not knowing anything about material costs in your area. Drywall's pretty inexpensive. Trim can be re-used IF it comes down in good shape. No idea what the finishing labor might run. As far as your part, moving stuff from one side of the room to the other is fine if you don't mind the labor. (Get a roll of thin "painter's plastic" for under $20 and keep stuff covered.) As far as having the finishing done, the less stuff in the finisher's way, the better. Get as much out of the room as possible and everything else in the center and cover it up. Best of luck....


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

Thank you so much.


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

you can use a vinyl J-channel that slips over end of drywall and snugs up to window jamb, your two side casing sets back with a small reveal. The only down side is you would need to replace the headcasing which if is a common profile should not be a problem.


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

Okay, I looked closer, and it seems there is a 1/2" particle board underneath the fake wood. And the fake wood is 1/4". 
So should I use 3/4" drywall? And should I still cut along the top of the ceiling? Or should I now try and remove the whole sheets?

Also, if my door and door jamb are regular wood color, and I want to go with white trim on things, do I paint my door jamb or will it look okay if it's the wood color? Same with the door? It's a bathroom door.


----------



## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

It's going to be really difficult to do the work with the ceiling in place. I'd suggest tearing the ceiling out and doing it with drywall too. If you're not going to take down the existing ceiling, then you might just take down the paneling and put drywall up to it, and then some kind of molding at the edge. But suspended ceilings don't age well, and any imperfections in the ceiling will be all the more obvious after you put up drywall.

If you're going to have someone else tape and mud, then bring them in before you install the drywall. They'll help you figure out the best was to install the stuff (where to have the seams for the best finished appearance) and who to buy it from.

I just re-finished a room like you're thinking of, and it was substantially more than $1000. 

If I understand correctly, you have particle board behind your paneling. What's behind the particle board? If you thump it does it feel like it's hollow, or does it feel like it's maybe glued to concrete?


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

The studs are behind the particle board.
If the current set up is 3/4" thick. What should I do? Use 3/4" drywall? Is putting the fake wood 1/4" behind the drywall a bad idea to make upf or the 1/4"?


----------



## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

If the particle board has flush seams, I'd leave it up and put 1/2" drywall over it. The particle board will make it really easy to hang things, like shelves or dart boards -- just drive screws wherever you like.


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

There is no such thing as 3/4" drywall. Take the 1/4" paneling down and put up 1/4" drywall on top of the 1/2" particle board. Or if you want to go back to bare studs to access for upgrading wiring and such, use 2 layers of 3/8" to get back to the same thickness so your trim will work out the same. One layer of 5/8" would likely work too....


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

Thanks. Will I have to remove the ceiling to remove just the 1/4" paneling? Or just unscrew and remove it as I go along?


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Again, the paneling likely runs behind the wall angle of the ceiling. You could use a "multi-tool" to cut at the bottom of the wall angle and use a small trim to cover the area once the drywall is installed.


----------



## doogie88 (Sep 20, 2008)

Would it be hard to just go through the 1/4" panel and not the particle board? Or I guess it wouldn't even matter if I went through both anyways?


----------

