# New Door Thicker than Old Hole



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

He's got the solution---Move the stop molding---Look in the 'how to' section for an easy to understand posting by WillieT--Mike--


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## dsayles1 (Jan 27, 2011)

*Bummer*

I kinda knew that was the case...but can't you just tell me where to get magical doors that fit 1 1/4? Do you understand how much time I have spent on this molding...it is so beautiful and white and perfect. Oh well...I guess I'd spend more time trying to work around it than just getting my pry bar action on and doing it over....we've done so much backa$$wards on this house and I know it...the worst part is....I knew it...and I said it...but what does an ol' stupid girl know right? 

Glad I found this site...many more posts to come...


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Put a texture, putty knife or credit card (last choice) under the bar, starting at the bottom of the door stop. Use the hook end (crow) after it lifts a little, then *lever*, not pry the trim off as the marks will be under the stop and covered again.

Gary


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

know anybody with a BIG planer so you can plane an 1/8" off the door?:laughing:


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## Mop in Hand (Feb 5, 2009)

With the proper home made jig and a trim router you could cut it back an 1/8". Some of those old jams are 1 piece.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I have found the 'painters tool' to be the best trim removal tool--stiff--thin blade--Try it.


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## dsayles1 (Jan 27, 2011)

*We DID it!*

Wahooo! After deciding it could not be done I decided to pull out the big guns...the disapointed face with the lip poke...and he made it happen...so here's the story...

Each of these jacked up doors was made (in the 50's) to fit the jacked up doorframe. So...we traced each door to get the correct width and then held the door in place where it was level...then screwed in the hinges and used a sander to sand the top and sides whereever needed to make it shut...

Wahooo! I have raised panel doors I knew the lip would do it


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