# Stanley Pocket door hardware install



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

the frame mounts to the framing then door jamb is installed which acts as the stop for the door. have you cut the marked part of the wood header if needed for your door size?


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## P14ZZ4 (Apr 10, 2010)

*I believe yes*

the pocket door frame was for a 36" door.(all precut) And Im sticking in a 36" door. I believe the frame was installed correctly.(Although I did not install it myself so I can only assume it was installed correctly)


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

has drywall been hung. i would also check the two metal suds at the opening for plumb/vertical in both directions.


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## P14ZZ4 (Apr 10, 2010)

*No drywall is not on the door jamb...*

Should I put drywall on the actual jamb? I didnt think I needed to do that. Just some nice wood jamb over the 2x4 frame is what I was gonna do.So then drywall and finish wood jamb 1/2" + 3/4" = 1-1/4", I guess that should solve my problem, right?


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

Yes, the track is short so that the trollies can be removed for replacement, something that is highly unlikely with modern hardware. Just move the leading edge trolly far enough from the door edge so it does not drop off the track. This problem has occurred with some manufacturers dimensions for years, and they have never got around to correcting it in print. I guess everyone just moves the trolleys, so they don't get a lot of formal complaints


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## P14ZZ4 (Apr 10, 2010)

*Thanks Trouble...*

I guess I thought thats what I would do. I thought it just seems odd that they came up with that 7/8ths measurement in the 1st place. Obviously you want the hanger plates as close to the edges as possible but why in the world did they come up 7/8ths. Anyhow THANKS ALOT for your reply. So I dont need to drywall the door jamb right? I didnt think that was the case...


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

should be no need for drywall on flat face of the 2x4 that your jamb will mount to


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

I am a latecomer to this conversation, but i hate Stanley pocket door hardware. I always use Johnson. Have never had a problem during or after installation.


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## P14ZZ4 (Apr 10, 2010)

*Stanley hardware...*

Well I dont think I can switch hardware now with the track installed. I was concerned about the rollers cuz Im using a fairly heavy oak 6 panel slab. So I got on Stanley's website and noticed they have HD style w/roller bearings. So I called consumers question and answer line, I asked the lady if the dimensions are the same the cheapo ones, she wasnt sure so she put me on hold. Got back on the phone and said yes the were. Shes got a pair of rollers in her hand and measured them herself. I said I would like to order the HD style, she said I'll give you these in my hand for FREE. I was shocked!!


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## RTRCon (Nov 20, 2007)

Always nice to get something for free..:thumbup: When you get your door hung and plumb, put a level on it when its all the way open, then check it again when its closed. You can use the door itself to set your 1x5(or whatever your useing) stop. Close the door onto the unnailed stop(1x5) and just shim the 1x5 to the door so you dont see any gaps.


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## P14ZZ4 (Apr 10, 2010)

*Thanks for the tip!*

I see what u mean. Is it common practice to, let me try to explain this; when finishing the door frames, as in installing the trim, to trim the jamb edge of the door frame with two pieces of trim wood. Let me try again... on the pocket side jamb you finish with a piece of trim on each side of the door, and on the top of the door frame you carry over with the trim again on each side of the door, right? What about installing the trimwork down the jambside of the door. so now it looks like a swing door with door stop trim all around the door. Make sense? Is this common practice or not?


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## RTRCon (Nov 20, 2007)

Im get what your saying.. On a 2x4 wall(4-1/2 with drywall) I hang/plumb door on track. On the pocket side use the 1x2 as a guide to shim the rubber stop on the back of the door so the front edge of the door is flush with the 1x2. Install the little centering feet at the bottom. Install the 1x2 on the pocket side. Then I do the 1x5 on the stop side( you can shim this off the 2x4 so the roller wont fall off the track). Last install the 1x2 at the header. If that makes any sence.:huh:


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## P14ZZ4 (Apr 10, 2010)

*Yes it makes sense*

Thanks for your help. I'll be a pro now if and when another pocket door is in the future.Problem is my 49 yo mind will have forgotten it all by then. heh heh But thats why there's the DIY forum. Again THANKS TO ALL. I know I'll be back!


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## VastImprove (Nov 3, 2010)

*Stanley pocket door*

I came to this site to look at how to install a stanley pocket door always used Johnson but was not able to find one for this instalation... but type in Johnson Pocket door .. they have an excellent install vidio that will help you understand how the kits should be installed. I don't know how different this Stanley is going to be , but we will see!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I had the wife return a PD kit she got by mistake because it wasn't a Johnson Hardware frame kit.
It had already been opened (and likely returned to BB store) so I looked at the quality to compare to Johnson's.
WAY thinner aluminum track, almost like tin foil... ( I could bend it with my fingers) crappy rollers, etc. Typical, shoddy "Made in *****" job. It was not Stanley though. I can only hope Stanley puts out better quality than THAT junk. Po)

The install video is here, btw: http://www.johnsonhardware.com/video.htm
I have NO connection to this company, although I DO love their products and recommend them highly.

DM


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