# Flashing for j channel under rake board with no roof overhang?



## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

Do I need to put flashing under this rake board before j-channeling below it?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Your going to need to use 5/8 J molding if your using regular lap siding.
Measure how far out that rake board comes out away from the sheathing.
No way do you want the trim to stick out past the rake board.
No way to know from that picture if they used 1 X 6, 5/4 or 2 X 6.


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## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

I think it's 3/4, 1/2 j channel fits flush under it. I measured things up and seems I could go with 3/8 j channel. But I take it, no flashing under/behind?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I would wrap the rake board with alum. prior to installing the J channel. While bending the alum put a Z bend on it with about 3" coming down onto the wall. Your J lays next to it, but any water that wicks behind your J will shed out to your house wrap.


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## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

What about just gasketing the j with thin closed cell foam tight to the board so that nothing wicks between the board and the j? The board is Miratec so shouldn't rot anytime soon.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Its not the just the rake board to worry about. More concerned about where it goes after it wicks into the corner. Will it get behind the water plan? Underneath the sheathing? 

I have seen people stick there J with a bead of silicone. You want to try foam. It may or may not work. I know that when flashed as I described, there is no need for caulk or gasket mat'l.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need 5/8 J moulding, no less.
The siding has to have room to expand and contract.
Have a brake avalible? 
If so it would be easy to use drip edging bent so it slides in under the rake board.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Best advices were already given. If you want real, long term low maintenance, you must cover the wood trim with sheetmetal. It would overlap the eave corner, overlap in the mid joints and overlap at the peak. It would be overlapped by roof drip edge and overlap the siding channel. I hope the trim overlaps the house wrap.:smile: 
Immediately forget foam (spray or solid) and caulk. They all break apart under the weather. Any caulk that stays, it must be applied to materials that will not break apart.


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## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

carpdad said:


> Best advices were already given. If you want real, long term low maintenance, you must cover the wood trim with sheetmetal. It would overlap the eave corner, overlap in the mid joints and overlap at the peak. It would be overlapped by roof drip edge and overlap the siding channel. I hope the trim overlaps the house wrap.:smile:
> Immediately forget foam (spray or solid) and caulk. They all break apart under the weather. Any caulk that stays, it must be applied to materials that will not break apart.


Thanks. Will be setting up the brake tomorrow and hope everything goes smoothly. And yes, the trim does overlap the housewrap.:smile:


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## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

So spent half a day today bending the alum coil. The POS Harbor Freight brake didn't work out--the way it's built you can't do more than 30"--and not 30" at a time, 30" overall. So I clamped the coil between few boards, bent it as needed, finally took it to nail it up, and it bent right in the middle. Did what I could to salvage, but now it's all wavy in all the wrong spots.

Any way to fix/salvage that? Could I just fit alum fascia over it for the looks, nail it with trim nails as usual?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Well, had you asked, anyone here would have told you a 30" brake is not going to cut it.
Not sure how you make 10' foot long Z flashing with boards, but to answer your question putting a fascia board over the flashing will cause more issues than it will solve.

My recommendation is to rent a 10' brake for a day and remake the pc(s)


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## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

I'm hesitant to rent a brake just because it's damn expensive, the cheapest I've seen online is HD's $45 for 4 hours, and I'm sure they'd add some tax on top of that too.lain: Would make sense if I were to wrap the whole house, but too much just to bend some 12 ft of alum in two spots.

Why would a piece of aluminum fascia on top of flashing cause problems? And it's not another board, just fascia like this one:
http://www.menards.com/main/buildin.../6-aluminum-smooth-fascia/p-1444424189971.htm


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Do you have a "Z" bend in the pc that you put up? If yes, then your additional pc should be fine. It should tuck under the drip at the top and nail under neath on the short leg.
I was envisioning you putting another board over it.


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## Dixon12 (May 3, 2016)

Yes, the piece I put up is a Z--3" down the wall, just under 1" over the board edge, when 6+" up and under the drip edge. A 6" fascia would fit right under and over it--would I just nail it to the rib of the board with trim nails?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

not sure what you mean by rib, but try to avoid nailing in the face cause it will look like crap. So be sure you have enough mat'l tucked under the drip edge to hold the top in. Then nail underneath on the narrow end of your rake board. Nailing thru 2 pcs of sheet metal you will need to pre-drill a small hole to get the trim nail started.


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## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Dixon12 said:


> Yes, the piece I put up is a Z--3" down the wall, just under 1" over the board edge, when 6+" up and under the drip edge. A 6" fascia would fit right under and over it--would I just nail it to the rib of the board with trim nails?


You should have stuck a piece of 3/4" or bigger Z flashing under the lower edge of the miratec. If you would have read the instructions for miratec before you installed it you would have known.


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## waterman1971 (Apr 19, 2009)

You can bend the whole thing in one piece. Cap the rake, straight down over the siding, back up 3/4" in 3/4" down whatever is left inside of 8".

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