# Reflashing Chimney



## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

The week after I bought my home I had a new roof put on, new shingles that is. Anyway about a year and a half later, I noticed some water spots on the ceiling drywall near the chimney. I researched the topic and decided to tackle the job myself. Here's the before and the progress.


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

A look from inside the attic. The sheathing was extremely water logged.


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

Today, I began the task. I have read about, watched videos on and still wasn't exactly sure what I was getting myself into. Anyway, here's the photos of what I began.


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

Once I got the sheathing off, I decided that I needed to strenghten the trusses that had been exposed to water. I also needed some additional backing for the new plywood sheathing.


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

I had some sheet metal cut a couple of weeks ago in anticipation for this job. 

It got dark on me and I wasn't able to finish the counter flashing, but I will tomorrow. And I'll post photos of the completed chimney.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

looking good
i like the cleats holding down the front apron:thumbsup:


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

*Ugly Mess*

That was one ugly mess you just fixed. Good job and your repair seems to be by my eye "Good to go." Keep it up, dorf dude...


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

That junction of the roof's rake and the uphill side of that style of chimney/roof junction is a difficult location to deal with as water will spill out over the roof edge and tend to back up against the chimney and run back up under the shingles. Also, concentrated water runoff running down the chimney at this location may damage the masonry. It would be nice see WSU along the rake. At a minimum make sure that there is drip edge along that section of rake, and if possible a flashing detail to prevent water backup. In my opinion, and based on my experience, a cricket directing that water over the edge uphill of the chimney and/or toward the inboard side of the chimney is a desirable detail at this location.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

cricket not really needed on that small of a chimney,nice maybe


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

*Finished Photos*

The only thing I have left to do is paint the exposed brick to match the house color (the black part above the counterflashing) The caulk hasn't fully dried yet. It's supposed to dry clear.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

tomstruble said:


> cricket not really needed on that small of a chimney,nice maybe


Not required by code, but from a _performance_ standpoint it's not the _width_ of the chimney that creates a potential problem here, it's the _design, _which has the chimney extending past the rake and water running against the rake edge at the junction and then down the chimney.

And yes, that's a nice looking job - many "professionals" don't do as well.


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

Michael Thomas said:


> Not required by code, but from a _performance_ standpoint it's not the _width_ of the chimney that creates a potential problem here, it's the _design, _which has the chimney extending past the rake and water running against the rake edge at the junction and then down the chimney.
> 
> And yes, that's a nice looking job - many "professionals" don't do as well.


I don't know if I understand you correctly, but I think you're saying that you're not concerned with the "roof" side, but rather the area near the part of the chimney that protrudes from the house? You feel that water will run under that flashing? 

If that's the case, and a cricket were placed there, I would think water could still run under the edge of the it unless it were protruding over the roof more? 

There was no indication that water had done this before with its present design and it's been there since 1964. What I might do though, is seal the top of the facia where it abuts the bottom of the shingles to prevent water from entering. Maybe also seal the top of the shingle where it joins the flashing. I think I'll test it, then decide. 

Thanks for your compliment and suggestions.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

Yes, my concern is with the "outside junction".











Fig. 1 What can happen when runoff is directed down the exterior of a masonry chimney.










Fig. 2 Close-up of same chimney, there was extensive water damage at the interior below this junction. This example is at an eave, but runoff at a rake can cause the same problem.

I have seen _many_ instances of such problems at home and moisture intrusion inspections here in Chicago.


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

that requires a kick out,that has nothing to do with a cricket


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Very nice metal work! I would have concerns with the black paper and it's application. In the last picture of post 3, you cut the old paper in a stair-step fashion around the existing shingles. In the new paper you cut around the shingles like that again, but installed it over- not under the above paper. You can see the new plywood edge joint near the bottom after you papered and the new paper should go over the lower existing shingles. 
The head flashing may direct water collecting there to the house side without a bead of roof tar to stop it's wicking/spilling when full. Look at the old head flashing piece, it's lost it's galvanized coating in the bend and extending towards the house. The head should have been cut before bending, not after, so the groove bend would have been flat or crimped to direct water down side of chimney. With the exist paper application, any water will wet the whole area where there is new paper. 

A cricket, as Michael said, would solve this. Kick-out flashing is always on the rake, not the head. 

Be safe, Gary


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

a kickout is needed wherever a eave terminates into a perpendicular surface,like what is shown in the last 2 pics all that the op needed to do on that small chimney is to extend the flashing in the back to overhang the rake an inch or so

like i said cricket would be nice but really not needed 

i&w would have been good too but i think the op handled the metal work well


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I can only find kick-out flashing at roof to wall intersections on the net and in books. Diverter flashing on crickets around trapped valleys, I understand. Possibly it's a local usage. I would be very concerned when the water pools at the horizontal valley where it can run side to side because of lack of a cricket to flow it around the corner. The other end should have a diverter, as mentioned. I have always had to build crickets at chimneys and wood chases, since I started framing houses in '75. Boy, I don't miss doing roof systems! lol


I just realized why the head flashing looked strange ----- you put it down too soon---- you needed* one more course of comp* under it! Then it would dump on the roofing -- not the paper.... Look at the old flashing picture.

Be safe, Gary


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

In this case a cricket would function as a "kick out flashing" to divert water away from the chimney. You could also use a conventional kick out of sorts there - either as an extension of the head flashing or installed a course or two above the chimney, the issue with either in my climate is that it as long as snow is allowed to dam against the chimney perpendicular to the rake melt-off would trickle off the edge and down the junction of the rake and the chimney. 

IMO, absent a cricket the best solution would likely be an extension of the chimney head flashing down the chimney and rake forming a continuous interior corner and termineted in a drip edge extendng out from both - but that's some pretty fancy sheet-metal work.

Bottom line is that this arrangement is just a tough transition to detail properly.

As to how much of an _actual_ problem this really is, that is depends a lot on the such factors local climate, the nature of the brick in the chimney and the mortar used to tuck-point it, and similar details. I'm paid to look for potential problems of this sort and I can be on the hook financially if I fail to anticipate them, so I tend to be pretty conservative as to what I consider acceptable, and with that in mind in my opinion in my climate that arrangement could certainly cause problems.


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

Maybe I'm seeing this wrong but shouldn't your step flashing be on top of the shingle and not underneith it like it looks like you did in this picture? 









It looks like you put the step flashing down and then shingled over it instead of lay the shingle and then step flashing on the top part of the shingle?


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> Very nice metal work! I would have concerns with the black paper and it's application. In the last picture of post 3, you cut the old paper in a stair-step fashion around the existing shingles. In the new paper you cut around the shingles like that again, but installed it over- not under the above paper. You can see the new plywood edge joint near the bottom after you papered and the new paper should go over the lower existing shingles.
> The head flashing may direct water collecting there to the house side without a bead of roof tar to stop it's wicking/spilling when full. Look at the old head flashing piece, it's lost it's galvanized coating in the bend and extending towards the house. The head should have been cut before bending, not after, so the groove bend would have been flat or crimped to direct water down side of chimney. With the exist paper application, any water will wet the whole area where there is new paper.
> 
> A cricket, as Michael said, would solve this. Kick-out flashing is always on the rake, not the head.
> ...


Just when I thought it was done. I guess I'm just going to cross my fingers on this one.


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> Maybe I'm seeing this wrong but shouldn't your step flashing be on top of the shingle and not underneith it like it looks like you did in this picture?
> 
> View attachment 16287
> 
> ...


 
I think you are looking at it wrong. The last step is on top of that shingle and bends around the chimney


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## knighton (Jul 30, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> I can only find kick-out flashing at roof to wall intersections on the net and in books. Diverter flashing on crickets around trapped valleys, I understand. Possibly it's a local usage. I would be very concerned when the water pools at the horizontal valley where it can run side to side because of lack of a cricket to flow it around the corner. The other end should have a diverter, as mentioned. I have always had to build crickets at chimneys and wood chases, since I started framing houses in '75. Boy, I don't miss doing roof systems! lol
> 
> 
> I just realized why the head flashing looked strange ----- you put it down too soon---- you needed* one more course of comp* under it! Then it would dump on the roofing -- not the paper.... Look at the old flashing picture.
> ...


 
I fixed it after I took that picture. ther is another run under there


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

knighton said:


> I think you are looking at it wrong. The last step is on top of that shingle and bends around the chimney


In the picture of yours that I reposted, if you are talking about the peice of metal is in that picture that wraps around the corner? It is only on top of that shingle by half an inch or so, which is not sufficiant. The step flashing should be on the topf half of the shingle and then the next layer of shingles covers it. In your picture where the last straight peice of step flashing is, it is under the shingle and it should be on top of it. From your picture I would say your step flashing is only on top of the shingle maybe an inch. Here is a link to flashing http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60348

If you go to that article it will show you that the step flashing needs to cover the shingle half way, not just an inch or so. Maybe you have another picture that shows your step flashing on top of the shingle half way?


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