# Bathroom wiring diagram



## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

I just talked to the electrical inspector I'll be using, and he said the floor heat requires a dedicated circuit, regardless of how much draw it has. I can't understand the reasoning behind that, but I guess I'm running an extra circuit to that bathroom. I suppose I could tap into the receptacle circuit for the lighting and fan, but I like the idea of a dedicated 20A outlet. I also plan to use this lighting circuit on my upstairs bathroom when I renovate it, so that idea is out the window if I put the outlet on it too.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

The NEC does not require the shower lights to be GFI protected, unless called for by the manufacturer. I have never seen any that did, just exhaust fans or fan/light combos over a shower or tub.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Good to know, thanks. I will check the manufacturer instructions, but I am guessing you are correct.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

I would suggest being careful with the floor heat TS. The ones I'm familiar with require a deep 4 square j-box with a mud ring. IMO it likely will not fit a multi-gang box with a lot of other cables.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

In Canada those switches would not pass code. They need to be 1m from shower or .5m minimum and GFCI. No way they could be right beside like that.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

brric said:


> I would suggest being careful with the floor heat TS. The ones I'm familiar with require a deep 4 square j-box with a mud ring. IMO it likely will not fit a multi-gang box with a lot of other cables.


I forgot to mention that the TS will be above the switchbox. Didn't have a good way to mark that on the diagram. Thanks.



joed said:


> In Canada those switches would not pass code. They need to be 1m from shower or .5m minimum and GFCI. No way they could be right beside like that.


I actually asked the inspector...he said as long as it isn't IN the shower, I am fine. I don't like them being that close, but I don't really have another option...


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## Volteach (Apr 14, 2010)

Be sure to use a shower trim if you are using can lights. I would not put the lights on GFI because A) its not required B) if the GFI throws, it will leave you in the dark.


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

The last in floor heat I installed called for a conduit sleeve from the box to the floor. You may want to locate the Tstat off to the side or below the switch box. A deep box is a definite plus for the Tstat.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Jim Port said:


> The last in floor heat I installed called for a conduit sleeve from the box to the floor. You may want to locate the Tstat off to the side or below the switch box. A deep box is a definite plus for the Tstat.


I don't think this one calls for the conduit, but I will check. Good advice, thanks. Maybe I'll just put the tstat near the sink instead.


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## brric (Mar 5, 2010)

secutanudu said:


> I don't think this one calls for the conduit, but I will check. Good advice, thanks. Maybe I'll just put the tstat near the sink instead.


 If it has a temperature probe and leads that will be installed after the drywall then some type of wireway will probably be needed.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

It has a low-voltage temp probe (I am installing an extra as a backup) that is fished through the wall cavity, behind the drywall. I don't think it runs in a raceway.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

You guys were right, the manual does call for conduit down to the bottom plate of the wall for the sensor and power line and a 4" square box with a mud ring. I will take that into consideration when thinking of where to place the tstat. Thanks.


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