# Plastic to Concrete Adhesive advice!



## Taipans (Feb 19, 2008)

So if I go ahead and put plastic over my basement parameter drain gap to keep the vapor from rising up. What kind of adhesive do you guys reccomend to use? Not sure what is good to stick concrete / plastic together and be waterproof!

Thanks


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

any kindd of *Urethane* or *Polyurethane* sealant.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

PL Premium will bond most anything together.


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## Taipans (Feb 19, 2008)

Thanks!:thumbsup:


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## terri_and_jj (Feb 24, 2008)

*don't stick it, shoot it*

get one of those powder actuated tools ( Hilti, Ramset, Remington, etc.) and some short washered pins. These tools are readily available and pretty handy. the guns range in price from $20 - $800 but the pins and loads are pretty cheap. just make sure to take care and follow directions


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## Taipans (Feb 19, 2008)

terri_and_jj said:


> get one of those powder actuated tools ( Hilti, Ramset, Remington, etc.) and some short washered pins. These tools are readily available and pretty handy. the guns range in price from $20 - $800 but the pins and loads are pretty cheap. just make sure to take care and follow directions


 
For plastic to concrete? :huh: 

I am using Tapcon screws for the studs / floor, I wouldn't even really consider glueing them down. *shrug*


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## terri_and_jj (Feb 24, 2008)

yes, shooting plastic to concrete works GREAT, as long as you are using washered pins. Half the price of tapcons and ten times faster


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Installing Poly by using a powder actuated fastener is total overkill and a complete waste of money...


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## terri_and_jj (Feb 24, 2008)

i don't know where you buy your tapcons, but powder pins and loads are usually about the same price as tapcons and with my semi auto hilti gun i can shoot 10 pins faster than i can drill a pilot hole and install a single tapcon

is it overkill, sure, but i think if you look at installed cost you will see its the pretty cost effective, even if you are a weekend warrior who is not paying for labor


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Still overkill.....Never seen anyone (company, person, no-one) install poly with tapcons or pins.


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## Taipans (Feb 19, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Still overkill.....Never seen anyone (company, person, no-one) install poly with tapcons or pins.


Since I am trying to seal the drain itself so air doesn't rise out and condense I can't see washers making an air tight seal along the entire wall anyhow.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Taipans said:


> Since I am trying to seal the drain itself so air doesn't rise out and condense I can't see washers making an air tight seal along the entire wall anyhow.


Putting holes in the poly will affect the "barrier" portion of the concept.
That suggestion to use fasteners, quite honestly (I'm sorry to say this), is ridiculous.

The standard moisture, or wateproofing applications, for sealing any concrete or masonry surface is always, using a "spray-on" or "rolled-on" applied - MR material. I just spec'd a Waste Water Treatment Building, that had CMU walls (Cinder blocks). The plans called for an application of water proof spray over the exterior masonry walls, prior to attaching PT stock, foam, sheathing, and vinyl siding. - Not poly.


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## Taipans (Feb 19, 2008)

I used a *Polyurethane* adhesive / sealent like you guys reccomended. It was in a caulk form, but since I was just sealing over a 1inch gap I figured a good bead on top and bottom should work out. For the actual vapor barrier I am going to use 4 - 6 mil poly and staple it over the 2x4s.

Thanks for the help!


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## pamtedd (Apr 27, 2011)

Hey all- I am trying to glue some of the new plastic styrofoam used in packing boxes to painted concrete wall. Have had little success.


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