# Painting Cupped Cedar Siding



## slickshift (Aug 25, 2005)

Wobbly said:


> Any thoughts?


Sometimes, one reaches a point where removal and replacement is actually easier (or at least more cost and time effective) than trying to fix what's there


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## mikey48 (Dec 6, 2007)

I also live in the NW. Sounds like it is time to replace the siding. Check around, we have a cedar yard in Chico that sells the cedar very reasonable


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## Wobbly (Sep 12, 2008)

mikey48 said:


> I also live in the NW. Sounds like it is time to replace the siding. Check around, we have a cedar yard in Chico that sells the cedar very reasonable


The existing siding is about 1- 1/2" thick at the base. Don't think they make it anymore.


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## lundybar (Sep 13, 2008)

I too live in the northwest. My house is painted cedar with some blistering and cracking in the exterior paint. I am in the process of getting bids for painting the exterior and have received so many different opinions about which Dunn Edwards paint to use due to cracking and blistering.

Does anyone know which Dunn Edward exterior paint I should use "Evershield (flat) vs. Enduracryl (low sheen)? And how long paint should last?


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## Wisco (Jun 18, 2008)

*get a gorilla on your back*

Dude, Yur in luck I have painted my large home(12 inch cedar) in wisco twice now in 5 years and the rough and split cedar is starting to look pretty good now. (I bet it was stained twice prior to that in 17 years maybe once) Suggestions Gorilla glue or Elmers urethane for the cracks and splits(spray a bit of water in the cracks and watch the urethane glue bubble into the grain like mount St. Helens at liftoff. Sand down the glue with lava rock or pumice stone.

Use DM ready patch on some of the open really weathered grain but it is not a cure all for really bad boards that just need replacing. It has been 5 years now and holding strong.Both at Menards.

I actuall oil primed the house when I bought it and then a solid stain. I now did a maintanence coat of SW Duration and knock on wood she is tight as a drum and looking good with urethane caulk to seal her up. Usually the cedar cups because it was not sealed on the backside and ends when installed with primer or paint/stain. Is real nice longlasting siding, with way more character than plastic(yah maintenance also) but this step is often neglected. Chow for now Morph


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## Wobbly (Sep 12, 2008)

Wisco said:


> Dude, Yur in luck I have painted my large home(12 inch cedar) in wisco twice now in 5 years and the rough and split cedar is starting to look pretty good now. (I bet it was stained twice prior to that in 17 years maybe once) Suggestions Gorilla glue or Elmers urethane for the cracks and splits(spray a bit of water in the cracks and watch the urethane glue bubble into the grain like mount St. Helens at liftoff. Sand down the glue with lava rock or pumice stone.
> 
> Use DM ready patch on some of the open really weathered grain but it is not a cure all for really bad boards that just need replacing. It has been 5 years now and holding strong.Both at Menards.
> 
> Morph


Looking at Zinsser and DAP sites. both say no to skim coating with their patch products. However, Zinsser says how to apply MH Patch as a skim coat! http://www.zinsser.com/PDF/TDB/ReadyPatch.pdf

I used way too much Bondo before , trying to completely fill in the cupping and make the boards perfectly flat amd smooth. Trying to get so much Bondo to expand and contract with the wood was asking too much. I also applied the Bondo in some places to the old topcoat instead of to sanded wood.. It seems the the previous painter slapped latex over the weathered cedar layer- with no primer. Even primer probably won't stick to the weathered cedar layer. 


This time primer will go over bare sanded wood. I've been filling the splits and knotholes with epoxy resin thickened with talc, so that it doesn't run.
Gorilla glue sounds easier. I'm going to live with most of the cupping, but fill in gouges and defects to level of surrounding wood. Might use some MH Patch, or a latex wood filler. No skim coating, though.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I would sand the wood before I would put any kind of spackle or wood filler on the face of a board to smooth it out as it will never last as long as solid paint job. 

I wouldn't trush Bob Vila's site as a few words into his suggestion he used the dreaded "Latex Primer" suggestion on bare wood.


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## Wobbly (Sep 12, 2008)

I'm planning to use Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 water-base primer-sealer. http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=11
This is what Zinsser recommends for scraped wood siding. Oil-base primer would soak into the wood, but I'm concerned how well it would adhere to the epoxy filler. However, after looking at Cover-Stain oil-base again, maybe I should go with it http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=12



Bob Vila's skim coat recommendation seems to go against the application instructions for any filler product that I've seen.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

That's exactly what I use except around here they just recetly changed the label to "Cover All" instead of "Cover Stain" but it's the same product. I would especially use it on epoxy. The day they make Latex Primer work just as well or better that oil, I will be the first to jump on board.


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## Wobbly (Sep 12, 2008)

Matthewt1970 said:


> That's exactly what I use except around here they just recetly changed the label to "Cover All" instead of "Cover Stain" but it's the same product. I would especially use it on epoxy. The day they make Latex Primer work just as well or better that oil, I will be the first to jump on board.


Just exchanged the Bulls Eye for Cover-Stain.

Thanks!


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