# Wood siding + Caulk, I think I messed up...



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Welcome to the forum.

Is this cedar dutch lap you’re talking about?

What caulking did you use?

Going to need pictures on this one.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-attach-photo-post-12559/


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## Austin1983 (Jul 10, 2011)

Is this cedar dutch lap you’re talking about?

What caulking did you use?

My siding is pine, but I guess it can be considered dutch lap (correct me if I'm wrong.) I just used all purpose acrylic caulk, I bought the good stuff, the 35-40 year stuff. I went back to edit my original post, but I forgot to mention that I did not caulk every board due to some protected under a porch and some hard to get to locations.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I wouldn’t worry about it. 

Is what you did common practice, no. Fact is a couple coats of paint usually seals the lap anyway. 

I certainty would not drill any holes and chance penetrating the weather barrier. 

That wasn’t the picture I was talking about btw.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

That is Dutch lap, German lap or Cove lap siding. The overlap board is nailed above the lap to let the bottom board move (expand and contract) with the seasonal changes. This also permits drying from water wicking and being solar driven to the backside near the house. It should be primed all six sides against water. No caulking at the laps. Each board needs the air space at the lap, continuous. http://www.forestprod.org/woodprotection06tsongas.pdf

You will get paint blisters if painted with a caulked lap joint; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-028-e

So it’s not a vented (rainscreen) siding? http://www.articlesnatch.com/Article/Benefit-From-Airspace-Behind-Your-Siding/151553

Gary


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## Austin1983 (Jul 10, 2011)

Thanks for the advice, after closer inspection it looks like the boards have already expanded and contracted enough to cause the caulk to separate in some places. I tried to remove some of it, and it looks like it would be impossible to remove it. Any suggestions on anything that I can do to better the situation?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

After it dries I'd try a carbide tipped paint scraper on the caulking, last resort- using a scraper blade with an oscillating power/multi tool. You don't want any of the caulking sealing that joint.......

Gary


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I hope the 105 siding has changed from the old days, it was tough to keep paint on back then. It also was bad to warp and twist some if it wasn't nailed tight.


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## Gwams (Jul 25, 2011)

*Where to get siding like that*

I need to replace some Dutch Lap Siding on our 80-year-old house. The photo looks like what I need. Where did you get it. Also, thanks for the advice on how to install. 

Gary


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