# Finishing Drywall Around Window That Has Channel



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would have put 2 layers of drywall in with an end molding on the drywall to go against the window 
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....lear-12-inch-x-12-inch-x-8-ft.1000675832.html

There is vinyl molding like this one.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Something just wrong about that whole idea and the way that was done.
What's the white trim around the window?
There was no need for plastic trim around the window if your doing a drywall return.
Sheetrock should have been just butted up against the window frame and caulked, outside corners gets metal outside drywall corners.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

If you have access to a table saw, I would make inside trim from 3/4"X 4" or so, with a big rabbet on the edge to accommodate that plastic fin on the window, coming out to be flush with the face of the drywall. Finish with standard trim molding.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Tear out the drywall and trim out the window.


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Re #4, I missed the fact that the bluish looking stuff is drywall. Remove the drywall, then trim as I described. Don't know if the rabbet will go inside that fin, or outside it without measuring.

Whoever did that should have put some shim material under the drywall so it was either tight under the fin, or butted into it, or covered it up. Any of those three would have been better.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

ChuckF. said:


> Re #4, I missed the fact that the bluish looking stuff is drywall. Remove the drywall, then trim as I described. Don't know if the rabbet will go inside that fin, or outside it without measuring.
> 
> Whoever did that should have put some shim material under the drywall so it was either tight under the fin, or butted into it, or covered it up. Any of those three would have been better.


I don't think that channel is attached to the window. It's probably this:


https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...-c-13053.htm?tid=-3587306395888177447&ipos=15


----------



## m_ridzon (Sep 29, 2017)

Folks,

Thanks for the info. Admittedly, I am the DIY'er who connived and did this arrangement, but I'm now not sure it was the best idea. And since I'll be finishing it soon, I want to do it right, which may mean revising my initial plans.

The white plastic channels on the window came with it and are "drywall return channels"; i.e., they are meant for drywall to terminate into for a cleaner look. At the time, it sounded like a great idea and easy way to take care of the drywall ledge around the window. But after the fact, I see the unsightly tiny air gap and wonder how to deal with it. Having gone this far, is it absurd to consider mudding the whole ledge to include the plastic return channels? Or will the window expansion/contraction eventually crack the mudding? 

If the mudding idea is completely absurd, I can pull off the drywall ledge and the return channels can be discarded. Should I then simply butt the drywall up against the window? What about having a clean look where it butts to the window? Should I just caulk it or use end molding? Which will be better?

Thanks again!
M Ridzon


----------



## m_ridzon (Sep 29, 2017)

BIG Johnson said:


> I don't think that channel is attached to the window. It's probably this:
> 
> 
> https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...-c-13053.htm?tid=-3587306395888177447&ipos=15


It is attached to the window, but comes off very easily when the drywall is removed.

M Ridzon


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I've always seen the drywall return butted up to the window. Once the drywall was finished I'd caulk the drywall to the window. As long as the caulk job is neat that works/looks well. At this point I'd probably remove the cornerbead and install another layer of drywall. 

Do not mud over the plastic channel - it will crack, sooner or later. I suppose you could caulk where the drywall meets the channel although I'm not sure how well that will look, especially if the paint is any color other than white.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

m_ridzon said:


> Folks,
> 
> Thanks for the info. Admittedly, I am the DIY'er who connived and did this arrangement, but I'm now not sure it was the best idea. And since I'll be finishing it soon, I want to do it right, which may mean revising my initial plans.
> 
> ...




If that's the look you're going for, You want what's called tear away bead. 



https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...3-c-13053.htm?tid=-1976474920862323323&ipos=1


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

BIG Johnson said:


> If that's the look you're going for, You want what's called tear away bead.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...3-c-13053.htm?tid=-1976474920862323323&ipos=1




I tried finding a good YouTube video for you but couldn't. The only one half way decent decided to mitre the tear away portion and leave it on permanently. WTF? 

The basic idea behind tear away is you have a small ledge that you fill up to with mud leaving you the flange to tear away AFTER prime and paint. You'll want to score the tear away line with a sharp knife to prevent peeling paint or chipping mud.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

mark sr said:


> I've always seen the drywall return butted up to the window. Once the drywall was finished I'd caulk the drywall to the window. As long as the caulk job is neat that works/looks well. At this point I'd probably remove the cornerbead and install another layer of drywall.
> 
> Do not mud over the plastic channel - it will crack, sooner or later. I suppose you could caulk where the drywall meets the channel although I'm not sure how well that will look, especially if the paint is any color other than white.


Back in the day (about 10-15 years ago) they had a one pc plastic product that went from the window frame to wrap around the edge of the drywall on the wall. No drywall got wrapped around the jamb. I don't know what it was called but the finisher only had to mud the side facing out to the room. The jamb got paint but no mud. Of course it was flimsy but it looked fine.


----------



## m_ridzon (Sep 29, 2017)

BIG Johnson said:


> I tried finding a good YouTube video for you but couldn't. The only one half way decent decided to mitre the tear away portion and leave it on permanently. WTF?
> 
> The basic idea behind tear away is you have a small ledge that you fill up to with mud leaving you the flange to tear away AFTER prime and paint. You'll want to score the tear away line with a sharp knife to prevent peeling paint or chipping mud.


Thanks for the tip. I'm going to the store today so I'll take a look at this and ask an associate for some explanation about using it since YouTube wasn't very helpful. Once complete, is there a need to caulk the joint at the window or is this idea intended to remove any need for caulking?

Thanks,
M Ridzon


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

m_ridzon said:


> Thanks for the tip. I'm going to the store today so I'll take a look at this and ask an associate for some explanation about using it since YouTube wasn't very helpful. Once complete, is there a need to caulk the joint at the window or is this idea intended to remove any need for caulking?
> 
> Thanks,
> M Ridzon


No caulk. You put it between the window frame and the drywall. Then mud it from the corner bead to the tear away. The tear away has a lip to guide your trowel that doesn't tear away. That sets the depth of the mud. The tearing away comes after you paint. It's function is to keep a clean edge against the window but also acts as masking tape for prime and paint. 

There are YouTube videos and they will teach you waaaay more than an HD! Lowes or menards clerk ever will. Once you hold a piece in your hand, it's pretty obvious how it works.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

Here's the one where the the fabulous host mitered.


----------



## m_ridzon (Sep 29, 2017)

BIG Johnson said:


> Here's the one where the the fabulous host mitered.
> 
> 
> https://youtu.be/2depCjjQpWg


I'm pretty sure that was a tranny! :vs_laugh:

At 7:20, he/she showed a close-up of the tear-away. Did he install it backwards? It looks like the side that gets torn away was tucked into the gap, thus prohibiting it from being torn away. Am I seeing that correctly? Granted, I know he was taking a different approach with plans to not tear it away, but that's not the approach I want to take.

M Ridzon


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

m_ridzon said:


> I'm pretty sure that was a tranny! :vs_laugh:
> 
> At 7:20, he/she showed a close-up of the tear-away. Did he install it backwards? It looks like the side that gets torn away was tucked into the gap, thus prohibiting it from being torn away. Am I seeing that correctly? Granted, I know he was taking a different approach with plans to not tear it away, but that's not the approach I want to take.
> 
> M Ridzon




At 10:45 you see the miter. It is installed the correct way but for some reason the star of that video decided not to use the tear away feature. You will see which side goes where when you hold the bead in your hand. It's obvious as can be.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

m_ridzon said:


> I'm pretty sure that was a tranny! :vs_laugh:
> 
> M Ridzon




.....


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Drywall window trim vs wood trim is a matter of personal preference. I would remove the drywall and the plastic and put real wood in there, 3/4" in pine, fir or spruce, whatever you have in your part of the country.

Drywall window trim started as a way for builders to save money, because real wood moldings are getting expensive. Maybe drywall labor rates are less than finish carpenter rates. Some people might like them for their clean minimalist look. Maybe part of the reason I prefer wood trim is because I hate doing anything with drywall and like working with wood.


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

In fla where a good portion of the houses are block construction and humidity is a big concern you almost always see drywall returns with a marble stool. Wood stools are prone to moisture damage. Not sure there is any appreciable money savings.


----------



## m_ridzon (Sep 29, 2017)

ChuckF. said:


> Drywall window trim vs wood trim is a matter of personal preference. I would remove the drywall and the plastic and put real wood in there, 3/4" in pine, fir or spruce, whatever you have in your part of the country.
> 
> Drywall window trim started as a way for builders to save money, because real wood moldings are getting expensive. Maybe drywall labor rates are less than finish carpenter rates. Some people might like them for their clean minimalist look. Maybe part of the reason I prefer wood trim is because I hate doing anything with drywall and like working with wood.


New update: my wife chimed in and decided that she'd like to take the approach of the wood trim instead of the drywall finish around the window. So I'll be removing the drywall and installing some nice wood trim instead. Is it necessary to caulk the joint where the trim butts up to the window? On many other finished windows I look at, I see no caulking so my guess is that it's unnecessary.

Thanks again.
M Ridzon


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I normally caulk it although you do want a neat bead of caulk since you aren't painting the window.


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

After you remove the drywall, you might consider shimming out the studs/sill to bring the new wood jambs tight and consistently spaced to the pvc. 
It can be done by using an offcut of the jamb material as a spacer to shim to. 
Cut a handful (box full) of various thicknesses of material like formica, 1/8 hardwood, 1/4 inch ply, etc into squares and have at it.


----------



## m_ridzon (Sep 29, 2017)

jlhaslip said:


> After you remove the drywall, you might consider shimming out the studs/sill to bring the new wood jambs tight and consistently spaced to the pvc.
> It can be done by using an offcut of the jamb material as a spacer to shim to.
> Cut a handful (box full) of various thicknesses of material like formica, 1/8 hardwood, 1/4 inch ply, etc into squares and have at it.


The PVC channel on the window is easily removable once the drywall is gone. So I'll just rip it off and butt the wood trim up against the window frame, simply overlaying the studs/sill with the finish trim. That should be pretty straightforward and no shimming should be needed hopefully.

M Ridzon


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

You need shimming if you get the window down to bare 2x4's and you find it's been mounted off-center. You might also need it if the trim boards you use aren't thick enough to make it to the window frame. For this window it doesn't look like you will need it.

After you pull the drywall off, and the plastic thing, you should put some insulation into the space, either filler/rod and caulk, or loose-pack fiberglass, or foam in a can. Re caulk the crack, depends on color that you paint the wood, if it's not white, then caulk can mess up the transition.


----------



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> depends on color that you paint the wood, if it's not white, then caulk can mess up the transition


Shouldn't be an issue. Caulk should be painted, unpainted caulk often attracts dirt. A neat caulk job along with a straight line with the paint will make it look professional.


----------



## BIG Johnson (Apr 9, 2017)

m_ridzon said:


> The PVC channel on the window is easily removable once the drywall is gone. So I'll just rip it off and butt the wood trim up against the window frame, simply overlaying the studs/sill with the finish trim. That should be pretty straightforward and no shimming should be needed hopefully.
> 
> M Ridzon


 This is pretty much what jlh is talking about. You'll have to register to read the article but that's not a big deal. 


http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/interiors/faster-jamb-extensions_o


----------

