# need Help Please



## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*where'd you get the idea,,,*

this'd work ?,,, 1st of all, those aren't stones but pre-cast conc pavers,,, you should've rcd a direction sheet showing them to be laid on a compact'd graded aggregate base course then tamp'd w/engine-driven paving tamp,,, for best results, tear out the sidewalk & do it right.

no color sand'll work, especially the red sand,,, continue on & you'll, more'n likely, create tripping hazards which your insurance company'll find distressing.


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## tkristi (Nov 28, 2007)

*hmm*

I think if I put about a inch of red sand on the bottom and then lay out my stones and then come back witha little more red sand to fill in...I think that would work..I don't want to have to take out the side walk.....There has to be a way to to put those stones down with out takeing up the side walk??


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

You're looking for what many DIYers and homeowners are looking for - a way to make something work that isn't going to be done right. Good luck.


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## tkristi (Nov 28, 2007)

*well I found this*

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_kits/article/0,2019,DIY_13787_4717618,00.html

Watch the vid...


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

tkristi said:


> http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/diy_kits/article/0,2019,DIY_13787_4717618,00.html
> 
> Watch the vid...


Sponsered by... oh yea - the paver manufacturer!


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## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*,,, if my customers saw,,,*

this, they'd think the same's you,,, so kristi, have at it,,, if you can get 5 gal of **** into a 4 gal bucket, you'll be the 1st in the world of either gender,,, we do this for a living - you watch'd a video - guess that makes you more of an x-pert.

there IS a way to do what you want but not the method you suggest,,, only trouble's it's going to cost about $85 sq ft in mtls ALONE,,, no labor, expertise, knowledge, or ins incl,


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## Jeekinz (Jan 29, 2007)

Looks like the sand would do the trick. Good luck, there's alot of people here looking for alternatives to plain ol concrete.


Ignore those other bozos.:thumbsup:


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

If you are just placing the pavers over the concrete. Make sure the concrete is level. If it is, you can use adhesive to adhere the pavers to the concrete, then fill in the gaps with sand. It will work. I have done it. If the sidewalk isn't very big, tear it out and go from there.


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## lightit (Nov 30, 2007)

*Depends on setup*

tkristi, seems to me this project will work if it's kept simple. The key to laying pavers is to provide a sufficient barrier to prevent horizontal movement. The pavers need to be kept tight to prevent them moving away from each other and creating loose, low spots. The border you have in the picture will not prevent sideways movement. Create a "form" by using either 1X4's or 2 X 4's down the length of the walk and drive stakes outside the forms about every 2-3 feet. (the new walk will obviously have to be a little wider than the old one) Keep the distance between the forms the exact width of your new walk all the way down. 

If you can keep your lines straight and any turns 90 degrees you should have no trouble, if there are sweeping lines you must cut the pavers. A curvedinstallation will be much more labor intensive and materials will cost more due to waste.

After your form is complete, fill it it with your sand (you can also use stone dust which is usually ground granite /fine particles giving a slightly stiffer base) about 1/2" above where the bottom of the paver rests. (Other words: if your paver is 2 1/2" thick, your sand line will be 2" from the top of the form board) Place your pavers tightly against each other, for the entire walk. Next place about 1/8" sand on top of your pavers and tamp them in to lock them together. You can rent a plate tamper (best) or you can hand tamp them (lot of work) Sweep the sand into the cracks between the pavers and hose the surface down to get the sand deeper into the crevaces. You may take the forms off and pour concrete curbs, or fill with dirt and tamp or you can leave the forms in place if you wish. If you think ahead a little you can plan your forms so that they will rest about 3/4 -1" below the top of the paver and when yoiu backfill the forms will go away all together.

Hope this helps you get the project done to your satisfaction without spending too much! How bout sending pictures when you get it done!:thumbup:


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

I've done this many times to save customers money on not having to rip out old walks. Make sure the walk is fairly level, if not, use a little leveling cement to get it level. Then use a good paver or concrete block adhesive to set your pavers. Make sure your border is good and tight, then if you have it available, sweep in a polymer sand. This is a special kind of sand that has a bonding agent in it, it will locktight all the bricks together. Sweep some in and then water it in, then do this several more times. You may have to check it every spring but it's worked well for us and we even have a lot of freezing and thawing here in n. indiana. You should be able to find the polymer sand at a home center or a brick and stone supplier. Good luck you gotta a great start! P.S. Don't be intimidated!


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

timber said:


> I've done this many times to save customers money on not having to rip out old walks. Make sure the walk is fairly level, if not, use a little leveling cement to get it level. Then use a good paver or concrete block adhesive to set your pavers. Make sure your border is good and tight, then if you have it available, sweep in a polymer sand. This is a special kind of sand that has a bonding agent in it, it will locktight all the bricks together. Sweep some in and then water it in, then do this several more times. You may have to check it every spring but it's worked well for us and we even have a lot of freezing and thawing here in n. indiana. You should be able to find the polymer sand at a home center or a brick and stone supplier. Good luck you gotta a great start! P.S. Don't be intimidated!


No matter how well this method works for you thus far, as soon as any quantity of water gets between the concrete and the pavers, and freezes, the project will be in ruins.


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## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*don't waste your time,,,*

they all know more'n we do !

got a pm from jeekinz ( sp ) chastizing me for not being kinder & gentler ( my words, not his, but you get the idea ) in my responses,,, still can't get 5gal into 4gal bkts yet i've been doing this work for years.

think he's a 'feelings' guy,,, donahue, oprah, & that crowd,,, but whatever works for them's fine,,, they're not my customers who wouldn't accept this work done as previously outlined by the amateurs.


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

The polymer sand does allow for water penetration, if you know you have a few low areas where water can pool simply drill a few drain holes in those areas with a concrete bit. (in the walk under the paver). The other option is to veneer the stone in a mortor base over the concrete, set the stones a little farther apart,add mortor between the stones. Then apply a concrete sealer. It's a little more involved and you should re-seal regularly but I've had good results.


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## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*timber, this is interesting,,,*

to me 'cause w/use polymer-mod'd concretes daily,,, mind giving out a brand name or public source ?,,, when we cast countertops, we use liquid polymer & add it to our bagg'd mix which contains dry polymers,,, thinking this might be something we can use.

thanks in adv.


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

Techni-Seal RG polimeric Sand. Techni-seal being the name on the bags I get from a local brick supplier.


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## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*thanks, bud,,,*

will google to ck application, product sheet, & msds.


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## tkristi (Nov 28, 2007)

I posted this about 4 years ago and my project is still strong and holding up under all the weather.... No shifting or anything... Very happy with the results


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