# Armstrong furnace how to wire humidifier



## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

what humidifier do you have brand and model number? can you take a picture of the control board?


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## geothermalpa (Dec 15, 2010)

Wire it to the G terminal so it comes on with the blower. http://geothermal-pa.com


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

My furnace is an Armstrong
Model EFC20LAA-1A
Serial No. 6005H19337
Voltage 240/208

*Honeywell HE225DG115 TRUE IAQ By-pass Humidifier


The pics of the wiring schematic is on my first post in this thread. Thanks for all your help. DW
*


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related/Honeywell%20TrueIAQ%20Owner%27s%20Guide%2001.10.pdf

see page 11


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Thanks for the manual. I looked inside the furnace, but can't determine where the 24v connection would be. Do you know if this humidifier will turn on and off when the furnace turns on and off, if I have it plugged in to a 120 wall outlet separate from the furnace? Thanks


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

it would be on the control board located in the blower compartment. the model number of hum that you gave me was for a bypass unit. It should not need 120v other than for the transformer.


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

hvactech126 said:


> it would be on the control board located in the blower compartment. the model number of hum that you gave me was for a bypass unit. It should not need 120v other than for the transformer.


I am figuring if I can't hook it directly to the furnace board I will use an outlet to plug it in. Is there anywhere I can get a picture or schematic of the location of the 24V transformer? Thanks again for helping.


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> I am figuring if I can't hook it directly to the furnace board I will use an outlet to plug it in. Is there anywhere I can get a picture or schematic of the location of the 24V transformer? Thanks again for helping.


there should be two terminals on the board one labeled HUM H and one labeled EAC H ....if you have hum on board then use that for the hot leg of the high voltage side of the transformer and take your other leg (common to a neutral post on the control board. If you don't have HUM then you can use EAC


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

hvactech,

I really appreciate your effort and help in this matter. I'm pretty good with home wiring and repairs, so I think I can handle this. I am going to go home and try to locate the terminals you are speaking of. I might post a picture or a video for you to check out if I can't find the exact terminals you are speaking of. Once again I will keep you posted and I appreciate you taking the time to help me. Thanks DW


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

HVACtech,

This is a video I was not able to find any HUM H or EAC H Neither are on the wiring diagram. Please take the time to see the video and let me know what you think. Thanks again for your needed help. DW

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-sBn5JXl8Y


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

do you have a heat pump? If you do then please tell me what terminal designations are in your t-stat.


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Thermostat Indoor Unit  Outdoor Unit
Red Red Red
Yellow wire nutted Yellow 
Orange wire nutted Orange
White Black + White +Brown  White *************edited**************
Green Green ------
Blue Blue Blue

These are the wire nuts on the outside of the furnace that connect the thermostat to the furnace + the heat pump.

I do have a heat pump. Here is how it is wired up. The Thermostat and outdoor unit have 20 gauge wire and the indoor furnace has 14 gauge tied together with wire nuts.

The following is what I found behind the Thermostat:

W2 White
G Green
B ------
O Orange
Y Yellow
R Red
C Blue
E Black


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

Do you have any extra wires going to thermostat from air handler? If you do hook it to B...


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Thanks for the quick response.

All wires going from the thermostat terminals do wire nut to the indoor unit. However there is one extra wire not in use. It is a brown 20 gauge wire it runs from the thermostat to the furnace, but not connected on either end.

********* I edited posting #13 please see the wiring correction****************


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> Thanks for the quick response.
> 
> All wires going from the thermostat terminals do wire nut to the indoor unit. However there is one extra wire not in use. It is a brown 20 gauge wire it runs from the thermostat to the furnace, but not connected on either end.


connect it to b on stat and then connect the other side to the w terminal on iaq


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

hvactech126 said:


> connect it to b on stat and then connect the other side to the w terminal on iaq



What do you mean by W terminal on IAQ?


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> What do you mean by W terminal on IAQ?


your IAQ control has a w terminal. See drawing


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Thanks for all the help I have not received my humidifier yet. I will probably get it here by Monday and begin my install this week. I will let you know how things work out. Have a good holiday. DW


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

You have an electric heater that has no EAC or HUM terminal when I checked the pics. Your voltage is all 220v and you need 24v to run a humid.

You need to install a set of isolating to stop the voltage from back feed during cooling operation.


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

hvaclover said:


> You have an electric heater that has no EAC or HUM terminal when I checked the pics. Your voltage is all 220v and you need 24v to run a humid.
> 
> You need to install a set of isolating to stop the voltage from back feed during cooling operation.


I am considering wiring a 120v switch that controls an outlet that the humidifier (transformer) plugs into, so that I can turn it off in the summer by hitting the switch. Being that my humidifier unit is digitally controlled will it be able to "sense" when the heat blower is running and only run when the heater is running, or will it just run all the time (even when the fan is not running) I like my fan set on auto I don't like the air running 24-7. Thanks for the help. DW


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

that why I told you took hook wire from b at stat to w on iaq control. this will signal heating


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

HVACTech, 
Sorry, I misunderstood your wiring plan. Now it is clear that I will be using a separate 120V outlet and a transformer, rather than tying into the furnace wiring.
I will hook up B to the thermostat to W on the IAQ. Today I wired a new 120v outlet to the furnace closet that is controlled by a switch so I can turn off the humidifier in the summer. I still have not yet received the humidifier from Fed-Ex, but it should be here by Monday or Tues. I'm feeling good about the install now. I will let you know how it goes and post some pics, hopefully, by the end of the week. Thanks again. DW


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Hi,
I got the humidifier today and installed it to the stack. Now I am ready to wire it up. I'm just trying to make sure I understand this right.

http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related...de%2001.10.pdf

These are the terminals on the IAQ (wiring diagram on p. 11)

R- wire nut to red wires outside furnace
C- wire nut to blue wires outside furnace
sensor
sensor -- Both sensors to outdoor sensor
W- tied to B on the thermostat (brown wire)
G- wire nut to the Green wires outside the furnace
vent
vent
dehum
dehum
hum - wire to postive on 24v trans
hum- wire to solenoid through hum out solenoid and to neg. 24V trans.

Thanks in advance for taking the time to look through this for me. I really appreciate it. DW


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> Hi,
> I got the humidifier today and installed it to the stack. Now I am ready to wire it up. I'm just trying to make sure I understand this right.
> 
> http://www.alpinehomeair.com/related...de%2001.10.pdf
> ...


looks good


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Hi hvactech,
I noticed that on the wiring diagram of the True IAQ it shows a small jumper wire running from the vent terminal to the dehumidifier terminal (page 11). I do not have a dehum hooked up to my furnace, so was wondering if I need this jumper wire or not. Right now, I'm stalling on the wiring due to Christmas. I know that if I screw up my heater, I will not be able to get a service guy out until after the holiday. Anyhow, have a great holiday and thanks again for your expertise. DW


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> Hi hvactech,
> I noticed that on the wiring diagram of the True IAQ it shows a small jumper wire running from the vent terminal to the dehumidifier terminal (page 11). I do not have a dehum hooked up to my furnace, so was wondering if I need this jumper wire or not. Right now, I'm stalling on the wiring due to Christmas. I know that if I screw up my heater, I will not be able to get a service guy out until after the holiday. Anyhow, have a great holiday and thanks again for your expertise. DW


should not need it. however. it does show it on schematic so put it on


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

Well I wired it up and for some reason the solenoid is not opening, I don't even hear it click. The transformer has 26V the directions say hook up wires to the + and - terminals of the transformer but the transformer has a R and C. I treated the C as the common wire and the R as the positive. Do they need to be switched? My heat and the IAQ all seem to be operating fine. It is just not getting water. I know water is at the solenoid because it leaked until I tightened the nut some more. Thanks DW


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

x-fmr (R) to hum1. Hum2 to Solenoid1. Solenoid2 to X-fmr (C) it maters not r or c the way you have it hooked up. on the iaq ensure you have it set to humidify. and that the humidity setpoint is above current humidity reading

check for voltage across c and w at iaq... also the furnace must be calling for heat, I believe.


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

hvactech126 said:


> x-fmr (R) to hum1. Hum2 to Solenoid1. Solenoid2 to X-fmr (C) it maters not r or c the way you have it hooked up. on the iaq ensure you have it set to humidify. and that the humidity setpoint is above current humidity reading
> 
> check for voltage across c and w at iaq... also the furnace must be calling for heat, I believe.


The furnace is calling for heat I have it set 10* higher then the room temp. There is no voltage at the solenoid, so that is why it is not opening. To check c and w do I just touch c and w at the same time and read the voltage? Thanks I checked C + W they have about 26volts. Across the hum and hum terminals on the Iaq reads 26v as well, but still nothing at the solenoid. 
*Update::: * I noticed that on the wiring schematic W goes from the Iaq to the thermostat (used a brown wire), but I was wondering if I need to tie W to the furnace as well. If that is the case that could be my problem. Please refer to Pg. 11 Thanks again.
http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm?productID=210&displaytab=instructions_brochures

If I do have to hook it (the W wire) up to the furnace, here are the wires coming out of the furnace yet.
There is a Brown and White 14 gauge wire that is tied together with the black and the white 20 gauge from the thermostat and there is also a 20 gauge white wire from the outdoor heat pump. All of these are tied together with one wire nut.

There is also one 14 gauge black wire lead coming off the furnace that is not being used.

So of these 2 furnace leads, which should I connect it to? Thanks


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> The furnace is calling for heat I have it set 10* higher then the room temp. There is no voltage at the solenoid, so that is why it is not opening. To check c and w do I just touch c and w at the same time and read the voltage? Thanks I checked C + W they have about 26volts. Across the hum and hum terminals on the Iaq reads 26v as well, but still nothing at the solenoid.
> *Update::: * I noticed that on the wiring schematic W goes from the Iaq to the thermostat (used a brown wire), but I was wondering if I need to tie W to the furnace as well. If that is the case that could be my problem. Please refer to Pg. 11 Thanks again.
> http://www.alpinehomeair.com/viewproduct.cfm?productID=210&displaytab=instructions_brochures
> 
> ...


the iaq is not calling for humidity if you are reading 26v across hum and hum. in the iaq screen make sure that humidity is set for auto and not off


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

hvactech126 said:


> the iaq is not calling for humidity if you are reading 26v across hum and hum. in the iaq screen make sure that humidity is set for auto and not off



Dang..that IAQ is really acting up...gotta tell 'ya:huh:


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

The IAQ is on auto. What about the brown wire connecting to the furnace? Thanks again


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> The IAQ is on auto. What about the brown wire connecting to the furnace? Thanks again


you said you had 26v from c to w so brown wire is hooked up properly. you do not have something set right on the iaq if all your wiring is done as you say. you will have 26 v across hum to hum if you remove the stat from the base. it requires the stat to control the terminals. you can check the solenoid if you wire directly to transformer and see if it runs.


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## doublewide6 (Dec 15, 2010)

hvactech126 said:


> you said you had 26v from c to w so brown wire is hooked up properly. you do not have something set right on the iaq if all your wiring is done as you say. you will have 26 v across hum to hum if you remove the stat from the base. it requires the stat to control the terminals. you can check the solenoid if you wire directly to transformer and see if it runs.


You were right everything was wired correctly. I just needed to reset the the humidifier to AUTO. I know that I did that prior to when playing around with it, but every time I hit the power it reset itself. So all I did was put it to auto and it kicked right on. I noticed that my 1/4 plastic water line is leaking, it is not leaking at the ends but somewhere in the middle. My water pressure is 55psi all I did was snake it through the ceiling. Do you think this is a manufacturing defect? Luckily I caught it in time that it only did a little bit of paint damage to my drywall, but I now have the water shut off at the needle valve and the hum turned off until I run a new water line. Thanks for all your help and I hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas. DW


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## hvactech126 (Nov 11, 2010)

doublewide6 said:


> You were right everything was wired correctly. I just needed to reset the the humidifier to AUTO. I know that I did that prior to when playing around with it, but every time I hit the power it reset itself. So all I did was put it to auto and it kicked right on. I noticed that my 1/4 plastic water line is leaking, it is not leaking at the ends but somewhere in the middle. My water pressure is 55psi all I did was snake it through the ceiling. Do you think this is a manufacturing defect? Luckily I caught it in time that it only did a little bit of paint damage to my drywall, but I now have the water shut off at the needle valve and the hum turned off until I run a new water line. Thanks for all your help and I hope you and your family have a Merry Christmas. DW


I only use 1/4" copper line


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