# Cut Off Stripped or Broken Screws



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I use a grinder with a metal cut-off wheel. With eye protection of course and an eye on the hot sparks if you have dry leaves and things around. It is faster than a reciprocating saw but that will work too. I have a fairly industrial strength Bosch grinder of a vintage with metal parts but I used mine all the time. I should think something in the Ryobi class for $50 or under would suit your needs? I did not have mine on hand recently and client had a Ryobi. It seemed well balanced but did heat up a bit. Worked fine for a purpose matching yours. Cutting disc is going to cost you a few bucks max. A grinder is one of those tools I would not yet trust in corless form.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

I have the 18 volt Dewalt grinder. We use it more than we use the corded ones. I would have never thought that would be the case either.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Have you tried bending them back and forth. Screws usually snap right off. 

Hoof clippers work great too.


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## mdawson3k (May 3, 2011)

Thanks for the ideas. The hoof clippers idea sounds neat except it is not easy to find one in my area .

I will try the grinder and report back. Thanks again!


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

IF there is any screw body sticking up, at least enough to clamp a pair of vise-grips held vertically, not lying down, try this: Soak the immediate area around the screw with white vinegar the day before wanting to remove these screws. The hold the vise-grips vertically, clamp them onto the screw really tight, and apply pressure to remove the screw body. DO NOT attempt to just unscrew the screw body, it will have to slowly started and then it will come right out. Now IF the screws are broken off clean with the decking support board, that's another story. One for the grinder to take care of and the new screw entered off to the side just a bit. Try it, I've used it and it works.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Don't overlook Ron's first suggestion. Hold your hammer with a medium grip, slap the screw one way, follow through, slap it the other way on the back stroke, and, depending on how long they've been there, they'll snap right off. Then try one step further, follow through on the back stoke, hit the butt of the broken off screw with the head of the hammer, and you've broken the screw off and flattened it, all in one melodical stroke. You'll know after a half dozen or so if you even need anything else.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

DexterII said:


> Don't overlook Ron's first suggestion. Hold your hammer with a medium grip, slap the screw one way, follow through, slap it the other way on the back stroke, and, depending on how long they've been there, they'll snap right off. Then try one step further, follow through on the back stoke, hit the butt of the broken off screw with the head of the hammer, and you've broken the screw off and flattened it, all in one melodical stroke. You'll know after a half dozen or so if you even need anything else.


Then grind them off because they never break flush or below the surface. Ever! 

Just a bit above is acceptable to some I guess but you said you were going to put new lumber on top and you wanted the dead screw suckers level with your framing structure? Just what you need is still broken off screws in your way but now sticking up 1/8 or 1/16th of inch or something? Enough to snag placing your new deck lumber? I guess broken off you could try wacking them to the surface or below with a hammer. 

Hours vs. minutes if it works. My clients will not pay me for solutions that take so long. And they would just shake their heads with me out bending dead screws back and forth with a hammer or vice grips and wondering why they still were above the surface when I was done? And hoping what was left was straight enough to pound in?

What nonsense. You will be done grinding the deck screws level before you read four of the reactionary messages to this post. 

- Steven


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

mdawson3k said:


> Thanks for the ideas. The hoof clippers idea sounds neat except it is not easy to find one in my area .
> 
> I will try the grinder and report back. Thanks again!


You can buy them at any hardware store. 

Almost a week never goes by that I don’t use them for something and never once was it for clipping a hoof.:laughing:

It’s about the only tool that will effortlessly pull about any nail, head or not if you can get a bite on it.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

sdsester said:


> Then grind them off because they never break flush or below the surface. Ever!
> 
> Just a bit above is acceptable to some I guess but you said you were going to put new lumber on top and you wanted the dead screw suckers level with your framing structure? Just what you need is still broken off screws in your way but now sticking up 1/8 or 1/16th of inch or something? Enough to snag placing your new deck lumber? I guess broken off you could try wacking them to the surface or below with a hammer.
> 
> ...


It always worked for me, most time they will snap below the surface on the first hit as the deck screws down this way are brittle and do no bend. Another thought on the screws bending, how many times have you seen a real rusty nail or screw bend, it will break even if it wasn't tempered when new. A reciprocating saw wouldn't work on the tempered deck screws that I used. A grinder will work good also but it is faster to break the screws off.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

OP asked for the easiest and “Safest” method. 

A grinder can be a dangerous tool. We’re not talking about go fast piece work here, just a way to make a few screws go away. 

I certainly wouldn’t advise someone to go out and buy a grinder just for that.


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## mdawson3k (May 3, 2011)

Thanks for all the discussion - I owe everyone a report on how it went. 

So, I went to Lowe's and bought a <$30 simple and small grinder (really) and 2 metal cutoff wheels for $2 a piece. The instructions in the manual for the grinder sucks big time. Extremely unclear. Anyway, I "think" I figured out how to put the wheel on successfully. This is the one I got (http://www.lowes.com/pd_296496-353-9295-01_0__?productId=3255470&Ntt=skil+grinder&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dskil%2Bgrinder&facetInfo=)

Went to the deck, and tested it on the first screw. Sparks flew like crazy (thankfully had my safety goggles on). I realized I shouldn't be wearing a t-shirt. Got my jacket, mask, and a hood to cover my entire body, and re-tried. It worked beautifully! There were far more sparks than anticipated. I was able to cut the first screw completely flush to the support beam without any visible cuts on the beams. That was nice.

Repeated the process on the next 3 screws. All went well.

This was really a "proof of concept" run to make sure I could do it. I will try to get the rest of broken screws cut off tomorrow (Sat). There are about 12 or so left.

I did notice something though - how am I supposed to know which wheel to get? I got two 4.5" DeWALT wheels that are designed to cut metal, but the instruction specifically says "not recommended for type 1, 1a, 27a". One of the cutoff wheels I got was Type 1, so I didn't use that one. The other one is of type 27 (not in the not-recommended list), so I used it and obviously worked. Any insight into what the types are would be helpful for future knowledge. 

Thanks again. I will report back again tomorrow (Sat).


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

16 screws? 35$ worth of tooling for 16 screws?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

12penny said:


> 16 screws? 35$ worth of tooling for 16 screws?


A new tool is a new tool.


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## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

A grinder is a tool that has many uses. Not like he spent $35 and destroyed it.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> It’s about the only tool that will effortlessly pull about any nail, head or not if you can get a bite on it.


And the first tool I turn to when pulling nails out the back of hardwood trim or even antique flooring I remove and want to save. I never had much luck pulling things with threads out though.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

sixeightten said:


> A grinder is a tool that has many uses. Not like he spent $35 and destroyed it.


 
I understand that:yes:. And I've made some tool purchases that blurred the line between want and need. But it took longer to post the question than what it would have taken to pull, break or unscrew them.

I suspect most responses would have been different if the OP had mentioned that small fact.:wink:


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

mdawson3k said:


> I did notice something though - how am I supposed to know which wheel to get? I got two 4.5" DeWALT wheels that are designed to cut metal, but the instruction specifically says "not recommended for type 1, 1a, 27a". One of the cutoff wheels I got was Type 1, so I didn't use that one. The other one is of type 27 (not in the not-recommended list), so I used it and obviously worked. Any insight into what the types are would be helpful for future knowledge.
> 
> Thanks again. I will report back again tomorrow (Sat).


Here's a little reading for you on the types of different cut off wheels: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/2600/Abrasives_Cutting_Wheels_and_Grinding_Wheels.html


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## Tizzer (Jul 24, 2010)

We are thinking about using a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. Does that work? 
...........

Do you already have this tool?


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## mdawson3k (May 3, 2011)

Well, I have been trying to get rid of those screws for two weeks (seriously) and have bought new driver bits again and again just to get a few more of them out (some successfully with new driver bits and some not). As soon as a new driver bit (square) is slightly rounded out (barely visible visually) after one or two screws, I can't pull any more out . I probably went through $20 worth of driver bits (Bosch and DeWALT) to pull out about 200 screws, which seems ridiculous. Those driver bits can be reused though for most work, just these screws' heads are in awful shape but holding on dearly to the support beams.

Yeah, getting a grinder (despite being cheap) seems wasteful except I have spent countless hours trying to get them out for two weeks now... My wife just read everyone's responses and is now laughing at me. :jester:

Yes, I tried very hard to break them unsuccessfully as well. Not a single one of the broke after various methods, including as suggested...

Thanks for all the input. I will report back again later today on the progress.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

All you needed were vise grips. Not a flashy tool by any means. No sparks to speak about, but it gets the job done.


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## mdawson3k (May 3, 2011)

K, got all the stubborn screws out. I was able to get two more out without grinding them after switching to new driver bits (again). Thanks for all the help!


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## shumakerscott (Jan 11, 2008)

When you put the new boards down use stainless Torx screws. The star head works the best. dorf dude...


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## GB Greg (Oct 14, 2010)

Sorry for being primative, but....

Why not just hammer them in???

I mean, your leaving screw in the joist by just cutting them off flat... Just beat them flush.


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