# Basement Finish With Superiorwalls



## bkeech

I am finishing my basement. My home was built with precast concrete walls, which provides easy drywall installation, but presents some questions (like where new interior walls meet in the middle of studs). Please post comments and suggestions and I'll share my progress.

First Plans:

Here are the plans for my basement. Basicaly a bathroom and a great room/family room.









One thing I am not sure on is the T corner of the bathroom. There is a metal pole there and I am not sure if I should frame 2x6 or 2x4's to cover the pole.


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## bkeech

*Pictures of unfinished Basement*

Here are some pics of my unfinished basement:





















































http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll257/bkeech/BasementBathRough.jpg


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## SnowUtopia

Looks good so far - I'm planning on starting my basement project here soon and I will be doing the bathrrom and great/media room as well. Did you just screw the framing into the concrete floors?


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## bkeech

*No framing Yet*

As of yet, I have not done any interiror wall framing. The other framing you might see in those photos above are the built in wood strips on the prefab exterior walls. When I do start framing, I am planning on use a power gun to shoot into the concrete.


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## bkeech

*Update*

Most Framing, electrical done.


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## bauman84

Wow thats coming along great!
Do you like the Superior Walls as of thus far? My wife and I are going to be purchasing a modular sometime this fall and were thinking of having it set on these walls.
Thanks!


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## bkeech

I think they saved me a lot of framing, and thus money. They do provide some different solutions for nailing in blocking.


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## redlense

bkeech: I am about to undertake a basement finishing project of my own and I have the same Superior Walls foundation as you. Nice looking job with the framing and electrical :thumbsup:. How did you secure your outlet boxes and switch boxes to the studs? Also, how did you secure your vertical wire runs to the studs?

Here are my "unfinished" pics:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dgostin/BasementUnfinished2309?authkey=SD-ZoDD-qts&feat=directlink

Thanks!
redlense


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## redlense

*Framing Underway*

The framing has begun. These pics show the method I used for securing the electrical boxes, as well as flushing out in between the Superior Wall studs. The cross-supports end up being really strong. :thumbup:

http://picasaweb.google.com/dgostin/BasementFraming?authkey=OVJT5WFsZAw&feat=directlink


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## bkeech

I had my electrical, plumbing, hvac, and framing inspection today. HVAC and framing passed. Electrical I need some fixes. I guess my area requires tamper proof outlets, and fault circuit breakers. Plumbing I put a vent elbow, where I should have put a waste. So on to insulation. The superior walls already have foam in them for R5, which I believe is not enough. So Im thinking about adding faced insulation, but am worried if moisture problems between the foam and bats.


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## redlense

bkeech,
My framing is done now too . I'll have to take some more pics. What are tamper-proof outlets? I have been installing outlets already and I hope my method is OK. 

I am in the same dilemma with respect to adding insulation. I'm not so concerned with improving the overall "R" value. I'm just wondering if it might help with sound dampening :confused1:. But, I guess moisture buildup in the cavity might be a concern. I found this guide on Superior Walls website that gives some advice on adding insulation: 
http://www.superiorwalls.com/documents/downloader.php?docid=815

After reading it, I'm still not sure of the best way to go about adding insulation.

Dave


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## bkeech

im not sure what they look like yet, but they are the kid that would prevent a child or whoever from sticking something in the outlet.


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## bkeech

OMG! I went to homedepot and found that AFI circuit breakers are 40 bucks. And they only had almond colored tamper proof outlets. lol


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## matpap

i'm trying to decide whether or not I should spend $3K installing the Dricore Subflooring system in the basement. Is it worth it? Will it be warm enough with 3/4inch engineered hardwood and a foam pad. I've never been a fan of basements but know my wife would prefer our office and the kids playroom to be downstairs. I want to be comfortable and not notice much change in temperature when going from upstairs to downstairs - plus have concerns about the kids rolling around playing on a cold floor. Is it worth the $3K?


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## bkeech

I think it depends on the basement. My basement is very dry. You should do the moisture test by taping a square of tin foil to the floor on all four sides with ductape, then see if in a few days there is water. You can also do the walls this way.


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## Leoskee

Why is it going to cost you 3k for the dricore floor? How many square feet do you have down there?


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## bkeech

I have finished most of the electical. I had to do some rewiring because of the requirement of Arc Fault circuit breakers. My dad had helped me and we ran a power for the three way switches using 14/3, with a black carrying a load for one of the circuits and the red carrying the other load. I changed that so each 3-way circuit now has its own black, neutural and ground. 

The circuit breakers were 40 dollars each, ouch. I could only find 5 dollar tamper proof outlets at homedepot, but the other day I found 1.50 tamper proof outlets. 

I have noticed that I get some seep'eg during heavy rains. This only happens in some of the corners where the superiorwalls join. Its enough to wet the whole corner and sometimes a little on the floor of the inside of the wall. I am looking into what I can do to seal it. I have also made sure my gutters down spouts go away from the foundation.


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## bkeech

Here is my 3-way switches out ready for drywall and taped for safety.








One of my boxes








Sofft with backerboards








Long view of big sofft








Tub Shower pics
















Stubb out for sink








View of tub/shower plumbing and stubb out for toilet


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## HABSFAN2006

Did the water come into the basement at the bottom of the walls? Was this due to the spring thaw/snow melting?
Also, with this wall system, i noticed you installed a lot of wood right up against concrete, did you use any vapor
barrior at all between wood/concrete between walls and floors?


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## Gary in WA

May want to strap/support the sink stubs. Don't use tall base in the bath or put a nail in the pipe. Use a newest taller nail plate around pipes. Put a dummy pipe in the tub and shower spouts. Those switches are not outside the bath door? I thought not. I sure you are covering all these points, just trying to help out! Be safe, GBAR


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## bkeech

HABSFAN2006 said:


> Did the water come into the basement at the bottom of the walls? Was this due to the spring thaw/snow melting?
> Also, with this wall system, i noticed you installed a lot of wood right up against concrete, did you use any vapor
> barrior at all between wood/concrete between walls and floors?


I have taken care of the water problem by fixing my down spouts and adding splash things. 

The wood that touches the concrete is treated.


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## bkeech

GBAR in WA said:


> May want to strap/support the sink stubs. Don't use tall base in the bath or put a nail in the pipe. Use a newest taller nail plate around pipes. Put a dummy pipe in the tub and shower spouts. Those switches are not outside the bath door? I thought not. I sure you are covering all these points, just trying to help out! Be safe, GBAR


 
Thanks for the reply. 

I was thinking I need to add a strap for the sink stubs, but was wondering if I can now, as they are not aligned for that????

Could you explain more about your other suggestions?

Thanks,
Bryan


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## redlense

*Subfloor*

I think I am going to spring for the subfloor. I think it will help make the floor feel softer with the carpet on it.

bkeech - Are you going to put extra insulation in the walls?

Dave


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## bkeech

redlense said:


> I think I am going to spring for the subfloor. I think it will help make the floor feel softer with the carpet on it.
> 
> bkeech - Are you going to put extra insulation in the walls?
> 
> Dave


No, and not for any really good reason. I believe it could use a little more. One reason is I am trying to get this done before June.


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## bkeech

GBAR in WA said:


> May want to strap/support the sink stubs. Don't use tall base in the bath or put a nail in the pipe. Use a newest taller nail plate around pipes. Put a dummy pipe in the tub and shower spouts. Those switches are not outside the bath door? I thought not. I sure you are covering all these points, just trying to help out! Be safe, GBAR


Oh, Is the dummy pipe(s) for doing the drywall?


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## Gary in WA

Your tub spout screws or pushes on to a 1/2" galv. pipe, same w. the shower. Put them in now, with caps, to charge the system and check for leaks. Easier the rock around. 
Nail plates for tall base trim: Simpson, PSPNZ here:

http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/plumbing_electrical.html

Insulation and vapor barriers: http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...rol-for-new-residential-buildings?full_view=1 

The sink stubs look for a vanity, you told the plumber right, not a pedestal. Just add a support block behind w. fasteners to limit on/off water vibs.
I do not understand *aligned*. Use a 6' straight edge (level) to check for horiz. plane of wall studs, cut and scab ply rips to sides as straightening. Don't forget the blocking at edge of tub, T.P. holder, vertically at end of tile, or cbu., middle of closets for the pole, bath sconces (lights), towel bars, etc.

May want align the can lights by the heat supply, now's the time. Be safe, GBAR


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## stradt03

bkeech said:


> Most Framing, electrical done.


Why do you have the wood furring strips on the superior wall studs? Did you not want to mount the drywall directly to the galvanized stud plates?

Just curious, thanks.

Jason


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## bkeech

You might be thinking of the newer model of superiour walls. Mine are the orginals. They have the wood strips on them.


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## stradt03

bkeech said:


> You might be thinking of the newer model of superiour walls. Mine are the orginals. They have the wood strips on them.


That makes sense! I didn't realize the older versions had wooden strips rather than the steel.


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## leitht

Great information. I have a home with the 10' Xi version of the Superior Walls. I had some questions about how to get started. This thread has answer a few of my questions. 

The last past to this thread mentioned the difference with the Xi walls having a metal cap on the studs versus the PT wood on the R-5. That led to some of my questions, but I guess the same technique using the cross-bracing for the partition walls would work. In my case it would mean screwing into the side of the metal cap.

With the 10' wall height, many of my mechanical systems (heat, water, A/C) all run below the floor joists. There are many areas that I will have to either add a drop ceiling or frame up and ceiling for drywall. Your pictures all show neat installation for the mechanical systems which make this part easier.

One question I still have is how you attached the drywall to the top and bottom of the walls. The top was probably attachied to the of the wall bond plate. Did you run a flat section of PT on the floor between each stud to attach the drywall? I have a slight issue there in that the contractor poured the floor slightly higher than the concrete that forms the base of the wall. Therefore the flat area between the studs if slightly lower than the slab. A 1-by piece of PT was used as a 'form' around the slab between the slab and the walls and this created the difference in height.

Tim


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## bkeech

leitht said:


> Great information. I have a home with the 10' Xi version of the Superior Walls. I had some questions about how to get started. This thread has answer a few of my questions.
> 
> The last past to this thread mentioned the difference with the Xi walls having a metal cap on the studs versus the PT wood on the R-5. That led to some of my questions, but I guess the same technique using the cross-bracing for the partition walls would work. In my case it would mean screwing into the side of the metal cap.
> 
> With the 10' wall height, many of my mechanical systems (heat, water, A/C) all run below the floor joists. There are many areas that I will have to either add a drop ceiling or frame up and ceiling for drywall. Your pictures all show neat installation for the mechanical systems which make this part easier.
> 
> One question I still have is how you attached the drywall to the top and bottom of the walls. The top was probably attachied to the of the wall bond plate. Did you run a flat section of PT on the floor between each stud to attach the drywall? I have a slight issue there in that the contractor poured the floor slightly higher than the concrete that forms the base of the wall. Therefore the flat area between the studs if slightly lower than the slab. A 1-by piece of PT was used as a 'form' around the slab between the slab and the walls and this created the difference in height.
> 
> Tim


 
You can also glue to the side of the superior walls to form braces. Remember to put a brace system in where you might want to hang a tv and things like that. 

As far as the drywall, remember that you will want a 1/2" gap at the bottom of the wall. This gap will be covered by the base boards. For the top of my walls, there is about 2 inches or so where the walls are just concrete. I hung 5/8 drywall and had no problems. You can also glue and screw. 

Bryan


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## leitht

Did you do any bracing at the floor between the studs to support the sheetrock, or jump allow the sheetrock to span the openings between the stud cavities? 

Tim


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## bkeech

leitht said:


> Did you do any bracing at the floor between the studs to support the sheetrock, or jump allow the sheetrock to span the openings between the stud cavities?
> 
> Tim


I just had the drywall span the wall studs.


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