# drywalling around shower



## mpdbill (Apr 22, 2011)

I just installed a 3 piece shower kit which I was told to screw directly to the studs and then drywall around it, covering the lip. The lip is only about 1/8" thick, but this is enough to make the drywall bow out. How am I supposed to drywall over the lip and the screw heads that are attaching the shower to the studs?


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## mickey cassiba (Mar 17, 2011)

When I was into housebuilding, we used to shim the framing above the enclosure, so that no bowing occurred. It's been many years, and there may be new methods, but if I were doing it again, thats what I would do. An expert will be along shortly to give more insight, I'm sure.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

That's what I do. Cedar shims used for setting doors work well.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Around here the normal practice is to stop the drywall at the lip and then fill the gap with dry mix joint compound like easy sand. If you are going to shim the drywall, I would rip narrow strips on a table saw to use for shims so thickness is consistent.
Mike Hawkins


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## rehabob (Apr 10, 2011)

I've tried the shim method. I've also shaved the end of the drywall back 1/8" for the width of the surround nailing strip. Both are a lot of work. And I've tried firehawk's method with 'hot' mud, similar to easysand. Firehawk's method is faster and looks just a good. I'd listen to firehawk.


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## sharpsport (Mar 30, 2011)

If your walls are exposed, then the shim method is the best solution. If you can live with the hump do nothing. It's common to see this, though it doesn't look the best. If you vote to stop the drywall short of the lip and mud the gap, you may want to fill as much of the gap as possible with a thinner drywall or some other material to avoid multiple passes with mud. This will also help prevent cracking. Good luck!

Rick
http://myhandyadvice.blogspot.com/


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## dberladyn (Apr 24, 2011)

Hi, 

I am a Professional Drywall Finisher. The correct way is to install the drywall up to the lip (not on top). This will leave you with a gap to be filled with a specialized compound such as SYNKO Concrete Fill, then tape and finish the joint as normal.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

We use the stirring paddles from the Paint Store as shims. 
They're exactly 1/8" thick and free :thumbsup:


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## rehabob (Apr 10, 2011)

Paint stir sticks - Good idea! Shims are OK for back wall, but what about the side walls. If you start shimming behind the tub, you have to carry the shim all the way across the wall to the next corner, not just behind the tub, to eliminate bump where shims stop. Am I missing something?


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## rehabob (Apr 10, 2011)

dberladyn said:


> The correct way is to install the drywall up to the lip (not on top). This will leave you with a gap to be filled with a specialized compound such as SYNKO Concrete Fill, then tape and finish the joint as normal.


Thanks for the tip - I will try the 'Fill' next time.


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