# kitchen tap very hard to swivel



## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

Turn off the water. There is a set screw in the front of the handle, may be behind a plastic plug. With that loose the handle should come off revealing a large nut that holds everything else together. With that off, the ball comes out to replace th rubber washers, and the spout can be pulled up/off. There are O rings in the spout or on the faucet body that likely need replacing(kits available at big box) and/or lubrication with plumbers grease.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

Before taking the faucet apart, look under the sink and see if the flexible water supply tubing is twisted. With the faucets that double as a sprayer, there is a tube that resembles electrical Greenfield conduit. It often happens that the faucet head gets turned during use (and never unwound) and causes knots under the sink. This can prevent the faucet from being able to swivel. Think of the supply tube the same as a telephone cord. No one knows why it gets twisted, but the answer is simple usage.


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

I was suspecting it might be the tube too, but it's near impossible to get behind there. At one point I was not able to take out the hose, so now that you mention it, maybe it is that. I'll have to try to play with it and see.


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## majakdragon (Sep 16, 2006)

Perhaps you can turn the faucet head without withdrawing it from the faucet body. Most of these type faucets also have a heavy weight hanging from them to assist in retracting the tubing when you are finished using it. The weight may also be tied up. Good luck and let us know what you find.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

I run into this a lot in my business. Of course, first turn the water supplies off, hot and cold. There most likely is a set screw behind the handle which when loosened will allow it to be removed. Then, as posted, there will be some type of nut holding everything in place. Remove the nut, and all that is under it to remove the faucet housing. I like to lay all of that out in a line to facilitate re-installing. Once all of the parts seem to be removed, try twisting and pulling up on the faucet body and it should come off. I'm betting there are O-rings in there which have become gummed up, and the inside of the faucet body will need cleaning also. Just me here: I do not like WD-40 to use on these faucets. I learned years ago how WD-40 will deteriorate most Buna-N O-rings. Most black O-rings are Buna-N. I like to use plumbers grease with a silicone base to lube all of this before assembly. Just my 2¢ worth. David


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Played around with it for a bit and don't think it's tangled inside. Very hard to see up though. Bassicaly, the water supply lines go inside, then come out as one line, then connects to the "BX" style line then goes back in the hole. I will have to take it appart when I get the chance. 

I don't have plumbers grease, would bike oil do the same job, or am I better buying the right stuff? This faucet is only a year old, is it normal for this to happen so early?


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## Bjamin (Jul 22, 2010)

*i just fixed this issue last week*

everyone here seems to have the right idea. The o'rings, the head swivels on around the faucet become hard to turn over time. In Ontario we have a lot of limestone sediment in our water. Limestone makes for great drinking water but can be hard on our plastic/rubber parts. 

Your first step is to obtain a parts diagram from the manufacturer of the faucet. You may find this online if you can identify the faucet maker. You might not need to replace the o'rings, just lube them with silicone grease (plumber's grease). The parts diagram might come in handy if you forget how to put the pieces back together.

If you notice the o'rings are worn some faucet companies will supply a new oring kit for free. Moen, Delta, American Standard will exchange for a new set, just call a Rona or Home depot plumbing dept. to find out details...

wd 40 and is a penetrating lubricant, you must be cautious b/c oil can affect the integrity of plastic and rubber. silicone grease can be found in a small amount for 5$


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## rlweiner (Dec 18, 2014)

I've been having a similar problem with a Hansgrohe single-handle kitchen faucet set in a Paperstone counter. It's not hard to swivel, but there's some resistance and a loud squeak when the faucet swivels in either direction. The squeak has been getting worse over the past few months. The faucet is about 3 years old, and the plumber and the store where I bought it were surprised that the internal parts would show wear so quickly. I decided to try a quick experiment before taking the faucet apart. I pushed some silicone faucet grease around the base of the faucet, trying to get it below the level of the counter. I then swiveled the faucet for a while and voilá -- no squeak. Cost of the repair: $4.99.


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## rlweiner (Dec 18, 2014)

rlweiner said:


> I've been having a similar problem with a Hansgrohe single-handle kitchen faucet set in a Paperstone counter. It's not hard to swivel, but there's some resistance and a loud squeak when the faucet swivels in either direction. The squeak has been getting worse over the past few months. The faucet is about 3 years old, and the plumber and the store where I bought it were surprised that the internal parts would show wear so quickly. I decided to try a quick experiment before taking the faucet apart. I pushed some silicone faucet grease around the base of the faucet, trying to get it below the level of the counter. I then swiveled the faucet for a while and voilá -- no squeak. Cost of the repair: $4.99.


I take it back. The faucet started squeaking again. I had a plumber out for another problem and his diagnosis is that the problem is inside the faucet, so I guess I'm going to be dismantling and greasing the insides.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

I would not use "bike oil" or any other type of petroleum-based lubricant. Silicon or plumbing grease only. It's cheap and has other uses.


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## rlweiner (Dec 18, 2014)

Thanks. I plan to use silicon plumbing grease.


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## rlweiner (Dec 18, 2014)

I fixed the squeak. It took about 5 minutes once I figured out how everything fit together. This video helped 



and so did these instructions:
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/lubricate-singlehandle-faucets-24323.html

The only step that wasn't obvious was removing the metal cap that covers the faucet ball. It took me a while to figure out that it would just pop off with help from a small screwdriver.

I then lifted up the faucet body and lubed the o-rings at the bottom with silicone grease. I hope that's a (reasonably) long-term fix.


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