# Need everyone help with corrogated roof panel.



## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

What material is the rest of the roof?

No, Great Stuff will disintegrate in a very shot time on a roof top.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Foam won't work.

Needs to be flashed with metal in some sort of transition strip.

PoleCat is correct. That foam will be foam dust in a season.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Not sure but I think this is what we tried to steer you against using in your op a while back? What is the Suntuff going over?Corrugated panels over what?


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

The rest of roof is plywood and 3 tabs shingles.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Very poor choice of material for lots of reasons.
One of which your finding out, near impossible to seal it on all 4 edges.
Even a cheap plexy sky light would work better then that.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

OK maybe I'm not understanding this right. The panel you want to put in is clear or sort clear to let the light in. In which case you had to remove the plywood, where the panel goes. Again if I'm right, then you will need to put spacer so new panel will be same height as the old one on the ends.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Very poor choice of material for lots of reasons.
One of which your finding out, near impossible to seal it on all 4 edges.
Even a cheap plexy sky light would work better then that.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

How steep is the pitch? If it has enough pitch you may be able to slip a z flashing under the shingles and over the corrugated plastic.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

When I lived in Ohio this was pretty common practice in barns and sheds to let light in.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Stay tune..ill snap some pics tomorrow to give you a better understandding of what im trying to accomplish. I really need your opinion guys. 

JOe is right. Corrugated panels are a PITA to work with in trying to prevent leaks.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

The corrugated skylights were made for corrugated metal panels. Why not put a curb and a actual skylight up there?


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Sorry but what's a curb? I would need a few skylights so that's out of the budget


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

For the sake of taking a quick pic i dint lay down a purlins.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

No budget to do it right but you have a budget to waste money on an idea that will not work, at least for very long? Replace the roof with corrugated metal panels that match the profile if you want to make the corrugated skylights work. 

A curb is a framed structure above the roof level that a skylight or HVAC unit would sit on.

Are you doing the whole roof of the structure? Post a picture of an over all view.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

I called the parent company they said you could use caulk/sealant to prevent leaks. But that's alot of work though. I'd need at least 4 [email protected] $170-180 a piece for a small one so i thought I might try the clear panels first. I only bought 2 panels, 1 is cut but I can always return the onther .

I'm not doing the whole roof. The panel is in the midddle of the patio cover. Below and above it the roof is made of plywood and shingles.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Caulking the gap on the back side will work for about a week if it doesn't rain. If the panels are 2' wide and spaced apart one could build a metal cricket/flashing and use the foam closures on the front of the metal flashing since water could back up there. 

Even adding a 2x4 framed curb, the appropriate flashing and a flat plexi glass would be a better option IMO then trying to get these to work.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

some makers make profile edging to match the corrugated panel. does the panel overhang the edge of the roof? can you cap the end with a 3x3 or something (under the panel)?


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Originally I was going to go with plexiglass but I've heard they yellow over time. But ill look into it again. Maybe it's a better option though a tad pricier. thanks


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

They only make against the side of the house edgings but not for my application (skylight)


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

anything plastic has issue with UV. unless you buy special plastic that contains heavy UV protection in it i would expect the plastic to fail in the future


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

It's 100% UV protection , well at least that's what their website says.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

oh, there warranty states degradation due to solar radiation



> Suntuf Polycarbonate panels shall not lose more than 8.5% of its light transmitting capacity from the original date purchased
> for a period of 10 years and no more than 1% per year thereafter as a direct result from the impact of solar radiation (as
> measured to the procedures in ASTM D1003-77)


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Your trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear to save a few bucks.
Not going to happen.
Done wrong and your going to end up having to replace sheathing and do the roof all over.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

yea I think im going to shell out a few extra dollars and get the right materials. Either plexi or twin wall polycarbonate.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

This is what im aiming to accomplish. Seems like this guy got it done. I just cant figure out how I can tie in the clear panel into the roof like he did since my roof pitch isn't steep enough... water could back up underneath the shingle and into the plywood.

well I looked at the pics again. I don't think my roof slope matter one way or the other. It's the part where the top shingle meet the panel curl up just a tad and water could back up from there. Anyone got a solution for that?

How did he get all the shingles on the edges to not curl up? Must be some type of rigid shingle?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

They are concrete, tile or heavy plastic, they don't flex much. He probably installed some kind of wood shim to even it up on the top side. Even with it over lapping like that you would still have an issue with water blowing up on the top or bottom side. You could in that case install a j channel at the top with the foam closures and a foam closure on the bottom edge, just like you would with a exposed fastener metal roof, but you still have the problem that water can and will get in there. The best you could do would be using a asphalt impregnated foam that expands. Even then there might be gaps that can allow water to be drawn in there. But that idea wouldn't work on your top side since it is not raised liek this guy did.


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

the shingles look like cedar or perhaps a slate that looks like cedar ??

some sort of foam strip under the edge 2-3" back might help with water, but if you have blowing rain i am not 100% how affective it will be. maybe you need to flip each panel over, dam the end and fill the corrugation with some type of liquid product from the edge to about 12" back so it can lay flat on your existing stuff?? what does manufacturer suggest?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Im going to guess the manufacture will suggest to use the product as it's intended. They were made to use on the same profile metal panels as skylights. Even using a flat piece of plexi glass you will have issues sealing on the side laps. The appropriate materials would a wood framed curb and a skylight. A 2x4' skylight lets in a whole lot of light and should be fairly easy to find. I know they are expensive, but just think how expensive it will be to what you plan to do, over and over again, what about hail? I'm all for saving a buck or two, especially on my own projects, but even though I've done roofing for a fairly long time now, I would go a different route then this.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

The last time I talked to the manufacturer they suggested caulk/silicone. They sent me a pdf files with a bunch of recommended silicone. 

ii thought about the foam strips buut that too is not guarantee but with a combination of strip , caulk, flashing sheet underneath would suffice? 

Heard greaet things about Leak Stopper. I might lay down some silicone then spread enough of this stuff might do the job?


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

johnv713 said:


> The last time I talked to the manufacturer they suggested caulk/silicone. They sent me a pdf files with a bunch of recommended silicone.
> Silicone is bathroom caulking.
> 
> ii thought about the foam strips buut that too is not guarantee but with a combination of strip , caulk, flashing sheet underneath would suffice?
> ...


No just no. You may as well buy the spray leak stop stuff as seen on tv. It seems you are really grasping at straws trying to force something to work that was not intended for this application. Who ever told you Leak Stopper is a good product, dissociate your self from them now, they are not a friend. If products like that worked 75% of us roofers would be out of business. If everyone could "patch" their own roof why would they call roofers? Often times stuff like this makes repairing a roof harder/ more time consuming, there for making it more expensive for the customer. There is a reason supply houses do not sell these products.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

I readd rave reviews onoline where people use it to stop leak on their skylight.. I understand this cououoould backfire down the road. Just trying to save a few bucks with the way the economy is these days juust an Avg Joe trrying to the best oof the situation. Thanks for your inputs that was very informative. Cheers!

i iijust calleed them to see iif they have any other recommendatioin and they said to otry one of their acrylic leak stopper (clearr) in a tube but not guarantee. they also confirm the can above couldd probably work but they dont recoomned it on clear panels.


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## iLikeDirt (Apr 27, 2014)

If you want a skylight, get a skylight. Don't try to turn a piece of clear plastic into a skylight. This is your _house_ we're talking about. Would you use cardboard instead of siding? A propane camp stove instead of a range?

There are too many problems with your idea to list. Water leakage, air infiltration, zero insulation, UV degradation, loss of clarity, easily torn off by high wind, destroyed by hail, collapsed by snow, ugly appearance, reduced resale value, etc. I could go on forever.

Even if you pull this off perfectly, it's going to leak in a few years and the plastic is going to fog and yellow, and then you're going to have to replace it with something else. Here's a better idea: do it right the first time and buy a real skylight unit, and then not only will you never have to replace it, but it'll be much nicer in the first place.

The way to "save a few bucks" is to do it right the first time. There's a saying: "only the rich can afford to buy cheap windows." Don't fall into that trap.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Fair enough. ill try to save up get a few sky lights( at least 4 for my patio size 35ft)


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## concrete_joe (Oct 6, 2014)

whats the final outcome supposed to look like? is this precision finishing, or crude feature? for the latter you could curb some "holes" as needed and then get some 5/16" to 3/8" plexi, drill holes round the edge every ~6", and then use the hex screws that have rubber washers under them, silicone the plexi to the curbing, etc.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Have you priced plexi lately? The skylights may be cheaper.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Remember, "Johnv" is the same guy who used 200 bags of concrete to do his patio, paid a couple guys he met at HD $20 a piece to help, and called it good. 


Sent from my iPhone using diychatroom.com


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> Remember, "Johnv" is the same guy who used 200 bags of concrete to do his patio, paid a couple guys he met at HD $20 a piece to help, and called it good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using diychatroom.com



Lololololol You're the same guy that called me a troll but went silent after I posted pictures of my project. 

Finish readiing the thread before you spew lies on here.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Yuup I looked up the price on plexi and it's about $100 for a 4x8 piece not sure about the thickness though. My brother just gave me 2 sheets but it's only .22 mm which i dont think is thick enough.


Joe you just gave me an idea. Already have a bag full of 2" hex screws. Thanks!


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

So your going to dump 200 bags of premix on the ground and mix it with a hoe?
That's the most ridicoulus thing I've heard in a long time.
Just one point that has not been mentioned.Around here we pay $4 bag.So your looking at $800 plus tax.Concrete from the batch plant is $110 per yard so that would be $440 delivered,mixed correctly on a truck.

Don't see any part of what I said that is a lie. This was a response from a masonry expert trying to talk you out of the ridiculousness of the way you were going to attempt your project. Now, others are trying to help you do a proper roofing/skylight project yet you continue to ignore their sound advice.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Dude mixing cement on the ground is the utmost rudimentary method and has been done for years in many part of the world where cement truck/pump are not readily available due to inaccessible roadways. Such is my case. 

I'm not ignoring anyone's advice, perhaps a little tinkering on my part is in order . I know without a doubt it can be done, perhaps we haven't found a way to figure it out just yet. Call me hardhead or whatever but when im at an impass I will continue to rack my brain until i found a way around it. Remember failure is the mother of invention


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Gymschu said:


> Remember, "Johnv" is the same guy who used 200 bags of concrete to do his patio, paid a couple guys he met at HD $20 a piece to help, and called it good.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using diychatroom.com


I would have agreed with you, but he posted pics.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f105/pouring-concrete-over-pavers-205578/index6/


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

johnv713 said:


> I'm not ignoring anyone's advice, perhaps a little tinkering on my part is in order . I know without a doubt it can be done, perhaps we haven't found a way to figure it out just yet. Call me hardhead or whatever but when im at an impass I will continue to rack my brain until i found a way around it. Remember failure is the mother of invention



Just because you can do something doesn't mean you should or that it will even work for a extended amount of time. Even with plexiglass you will have a hard time sealing the side laps. 

Don't even get me started with placing concrete. There is a reason for wheelbarrows. I don't know how many hundreds of yards off a truck I've lugged around with a wheelbarrow and I don't do hardly any concrete. I've only had one project where we were able to get a truck next to the pour and that was at our shop and I can turn a semi around pretty easy in our lot so a concrete truck was easy. Every other pour someone ran the wheelbarrow, and that is why we have friends and beer and pizza.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Trust me i'd be the first to tell you how convenient it is to have a cement truck after my project done. That said, Latin American countries been building houses, small roads, pools,furnitures,etc, without the aid of a premix truck for decades and it is still in practice in rural areas . Ask anyone from these countries and they can attest what i'm telling you is the truth or simply google. 

As strange as it sounds to some of you there are pros and cons using a truck. If anyone wants to know ill get into that later.


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## 1985gt (Jan 8, 2011)

Again a case of you can do something that way but there area easier/cheaper ways to do it.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

I concur. Ill look deeper into 4that this weekend. Really appreciate your inputs.


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

Update: I had some free time earlier today so decided to use window silicone. laid down the first layer. Waited 1 hr. Repeat. Then applied a bus load of Leak Stopper 

So far so good. No leaks anywhere. Not sure how long itll hold up. Even if it leaks next week or whenever its been a good learning experience..
Cheers!


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## Bob Sanders (Nov 10, 2013)

You installed it too high. You should have installed so that the *high* ridge of the panel is level with the plywood so a shingle will overlap it.

Caulking, silicone... etc, won't hold for very long. You have in effect created a tough for water to pile up in.

If I were you I would pull it apart and re-level the panel, otherwise you're going to be up on the roof every 5 or 6 months plugging another leak.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Is this a house you're flipping?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

r0ckstarr said:


> Is this a house you're flipping?



r0ckstarr, I can't wait for round 3 of JohnV's home improvement saga when he uses styrofoam cups to side his house.:laughing:


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

This might go well with the styro.....:laughing::wink:


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## flhtcu (Oct 12, 2014)

CD siding and styrofoam cups for trim!!


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

The pic I posted was from about a week or two ago. I since cut the panel where it's almost flush with the plywood. Holding up good so far. Hope it last some time though.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Sky lights have come down in price....
http://www.homedepot.com/s/sky%2520light?NCNI-5

Even so, if you have plexi glass you can build your own frame. Get a roll of metal flashing bend it to meet your needs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3E7bBpLyTY&list=UUs40OzADFXznfRioh0FWFzg


..........


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## johnv713 (Jul 14, 2014)

My next house ill definitely get a few skylights. Already installed the clear panels with a few layers of silicon and roofing cement. My curiosity got the best of me, just wanted to find out if it can be done. Seems to be holding up so far. Thanks!


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