# GFCI with no neutral?



## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

I am installing a 220 outlet for a compressor--I thought I would be "extra safe" and install GFCI breaker in the panel--the outlet calls for #10 wire--- hot red one, hot black one and a ground--all #10---no neutral. The GFCI 20 amp 2 pole breaker ---murry--- that I bought has a white coiled neutral wire and a place to land 3 wires---hot + hot and neutral. I have no neutral!--I believe that red hot goes to one post and black hot goes to one post and ground goes to the grounding bar--so I have no wire to land on the third post---the "Neutral post"!
Do I have the wrong GFCI or will it work as I have described?--Should I connect the white coiled wire off the GFCI breaker to the neutral bar? 
Thanks for your expertise!!!


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

Save your money. No GFI required.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

GFCIs protection is not required, but if you would like to add one that will be ok.

The GFCI doesn't need a load neutral if the equipment does not have one. However the line neutral, that being your pig tail white coiled wire will need to be connected to the neutral bar since the breaker needs 120 volts for the electronics to work. 

Connect the ground to the ground bar as you normally would.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

What size circuit does the compressor require.
You said #10 wire, which may mean the 20 amp breaker is too small anyway.


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

Jump-Start--thank you--I do know that it is not required but I want to be extra safe as the panel and the outlets are outside.
JB--Nice catch!!!
I checked and you are correct--so now I have another delima---I have a 220 outlet in my garage--that is what I am duplicating off a new sub panel--for a RV garage--I copied all aspects of the existing outlet--
1. L6-30R outlet
2. Researched wire requirement--shows #10-Hot+Hot+Ground
3. Checked existing Breaker--Bryant non GFCI--"20 AMP"!!!!!---This is WRONG?--but it is why I bought the 20 amp Murray GFCI breaker!---I still know where my electrician lives--should I harass him?

So since it has not popped in 30 years here should I swap out the 20 amp for a 30 amp breaker?--Or stay with the 20?

The compressor does not say "Amperage" it says --115 or 230 by a switch--I have always used it at 230--I have pictures I will see if I can upload them here--but thanks so far to each of you!
David


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

picture of: 
outlet
subpanel with gfci 20 amp breaker
Compressor data


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

DaveMcSF said:


> I am installing a 220 outlet for a compressor--I thought I would be "extra safe" and install GFCI breaker in the panel--the outlet calls for #10 wire--- hot red one, hot black one and a ground--all #10---no neutral. The GFCI 20 amp 2 pole breaker ---murry--- that I bought has a white coiled neutral wire and a place to land 3 wires---hot + hot and neutral. I have no neutral!--I believe that red hot goes to one post and black hot goes to one post and ground goes to the grounding bar--so I have no wire to land on the third post---the "Neutral post"!
> Do I have the wrong GFCI or will it work as I have described?--Should I connect the white coiled wire off the GFCI breaker to the neutral bar?
> Thanks for your expertise!!!


 I don't see any wattage on that compressor but that breaker should work. IF it trips you will have to check all wires on that circuit for breaker size.


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## dmxtothemax (Oct 26, 2010)

FLA = 18.6 A
So 20A outlet is fine !

:thumbsup:


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

Thanmks again guys--I have one more question--if I haven't run your patience dry yet!

I have red--black and green--#10 wire stranded--
-at the breaker end--red is hot---black is hot and green goes to ground (at the sub panel) --not neutral as discussed.
At the outlet end I have red to "Y"---Black to "X" and green to Ground--grounded to the receptical and the box (it is metal) it is in.

I am not an electrician but why don't I need a neutral for this outlet?--Just looking for an education--I know the receptical itself only has 3 posts.---why doesn't it have 4 posts?


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

DaveMcSF said:


> Jump-Start--thank you--I do know that it is not required but I want to be extra safe as the panel and the outlets are outside.
> JB--Nice catch!!!
> I checked and you are correct--so now I have another delima---I have a 220 outlet in my garage--that is what I am duplicating off a new sub panel--for a RV garage--I copied all aspects of the existing outlet--
> 1. L6-30R outlet
> ...


Technically, you need a 30 amp, however, since you have a motor that doesn't go over 20 amps it will be functionally correct. 

A 30 amp breaker however will cover nuisance tripping if someone plugged in a 30 amp device in the future.


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

DaveMcSF said:


> Thanmks again guys--I have one more question--if I haven't run your patience dry yet!
> 
> I have red--black and green--#10 wire stranded--
> -at the breaker end--red is hot---black is hot and green goes to ground (at the sub panel) --not neutral as discussed.
> ...


It is the older type.


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## Jump-start (Sep 26, 2012)

DaveMcSF said:


> Thanmks again guys--I have one more question--if I haven't run your patience dry yet!
> 
> I have red--black and green--#10 wire stranded--
> -at the breaker end--red is hot---black is hot and green goes to ground (at the sub panel) --not neutral as discussed.
> ...



If this device has no 120 volt loads, it doesn't need a neutral. Only 2 hots and a safety ground will do here. When one has 2 hots from a standard residential service you get 240 volts potential between them. 120 volts to neutral. Voltage is present and current will flow. between the hots at 240 volts. So if only 240 volts are needed then 2 hots will suffice. A neutral would have no function. However if say that motor also had a 120 volt work light or controls only then would neutral be needed. Neutrals are only needed where 120 volt loads are present. 

A dryer has 240 volt heaters and a 120 volt motor; so it will need 2 hots, a neutral and a ground. An A/C on the other hand, or heater only has 240 volt parts and nothing requiring 120 so only 2 hots and a ground. 


To keep it simple the neutral is only for something needing 120 volts, be it a table lamp or a 120 volt part like a control board in a 240 volt appliance.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

DaveMcSF said:


> Thanmks again guys--I have one more question--if I haven't run your patience dry yet!
> 
> I have red--black and green--#10 wire stranded--
> -at the breaker end--red is hot---black is hot and green goes to ground (at the sub panel) --not neutral as discussed.
> ...


Boy Dave... Understand exactly where you are coming from and respect that interest.....

*In laymen's terms*, your residential system has two hot legs, as you understand. The voltage potential between those two hot legs is 240V.

But our US/NorthAmerica systems use predominately 120 V.... and electrically that is done with tapping into the transformer with a third wire we refer to as the neutral.

Either leg, to that neutral, results in a 120 V potential.
One leg to the other, results in a 240 V potential.

In your case, your compressor does not require any 120 V potential, thus you do not need that neutral wire.

Now, if it was your stve, with a light and a clock that runs on 120V, you would need that neutral.

Your ground wire, meerly is a safty measure, in case a wire shorts to the frame of your compressor, your current will run down that ground, exceeding your breaker Amperage, and trip. This is preferable to you touchingyour compressor, and that shorted compressor frame running thru you.

Basically, your compressor does not need 120V, thus you do not need a neutral.

Probably someone can explain that better.... it's Friday happy hour... 

Best


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Boy Dave... Understand exactly where you are coming from and respect that interest.....
> 
> *In laymen's terms*, your residential system has two hot legs, as you understand. The voltage potential between those two hot legs is 240V.
> 
> ...


That was perfect.


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## Know A Little (Sep 29, 2013)

dmxtothemax said:


> FLA = 18.6 A
> So 20A outlet is fine !
> 
> :thumbsup:



That higher number is for single phase 120 VAC I believe, the 240 VAC single phase FLA is 9.3 amps.

Depends on starting/inrush current, inrush for a compressor can be very high, typical motor can be 4-10 times, with a compressor it can be as high as 12 times possibly more.

Assume worse case and you have 9.3 X 12=111 amps, a typical 20 amp molded case instantaneous operation is 6-10 times the rating, 6 x 20 =120 amps, placing the motor at or close to tripping on startups. While this may not happen on every startup it is a possibility.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

dmxtothemax said:


> FLA = 18.6 A
> So 20A outlet is fine !
> 
> :thumbsup:


what?

120 v = 30 amp 
230 v = 15 amp


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## Know A Little (Sep 29, 2013)

ritelec said:


> what?
> 
> 120 v = 30 amp
> 230 v = 15 amp


You are not accounting for inrush.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

?

9.3 x 1.25 = 11.6 15 amp

tp motor protected no more than 250%

9.3 x 2.5 = no more than 23.25 so 20 amp, 15 should work


18.6 x 1.25 = 23.23

18.6 x 2.5 = no more than 46.5 so 40 amp, unless you can find a 45. 30 should work.

Inrush? where's the inrush calculation?


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

You guys are terrific!---no wonder you always got paid more than me (Carpenter)--until I made Supe---I figured out FLA on my own---sorry if I got you started on FLA vs in rush--I am going to see if HD will swap my breaker--for a 30 amp--GFCI--to eliminate the possibility that down the raod someone thinks the outlet should handle 30 amps (L6-30R)
Thanks again for you time
Dave Mc


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

DaveMcSF said:


> You guys are terrific!---no wonder you always got paid more than me (Carpenter)--until I made Supe---I figured out FLA on my own---sorry if I got you started on FLA vs in rush--I am going to see if HD will swap my breaker--for a 30 amp--GFCI--to eliminate the possibility that down the raod someone thinks the outlet should handle 30 amps (L6-30R)
> Thanks again for you time
> Dave Mc


Hold on.

at what voltage?

30 amp protection (protecting the motor, not the circuit) at 240v is too high.

15 or 20 amp.


30 amp 120 v protects the motor, but your receptacle would be wrong.

you have to hots and ground, you would need hot,neutral,ground (if they make one) or switch that's rated.

I'd suggest the 240 v. (go for the 20 )


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

just adding Dave. the breaker will be protecting the wire.

The thermal overload is protecting the motor. BUT as in a couple posts back, the breaker can't be larger than 250 percent of the full load current.
That was the 23.25 number. So 30 is too large.

edit: and as recommended here save the money and get a regular two pole breaker. (maybe put that money to a new 20 amp receptacle and male plug)


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

voltage is 230--20 amp--2 pol --
No neutral
Outlet is L6-30R


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Know A Little said:


> That higher number is for single phase 120 VAC I believe, the 240 VAC single phase FLA is 9.3 amps.
> 
> Depends on starting/inrush current, inrush for a compressor can be very high, typical motor can be 4-10 times, with a compressor it can be as high as 12 times possibly more.
> 
> Assume worse case and you have 9.3 X 12=111 amps, a typical 20 amp molded case instantaneous operation is 6-10 times the rating, 6 x 20 =120 amps, placing the motor at or close to tripping on startups. While this may not happen on every startup it is a possibility.


I just gotta say with the "inrush current" yes it's there. But of all the motors I've ever hooked up or seen hooked up that was fed with a proper circuit never tripped from the inrush current. Sorry


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

OK ----so consensus is 20 amp breaker--because 30 is too large--more than 2.5 times--are you guys in agreement?--Just wondering.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

DaveMcSF said:


> voltage is 230--20 amp--2 pol --
> No neutral
> Outlet is L6-30R


Correct. change the outlet and plug to 20 amp so everything is 20 amp and there's no confusion (use the 10's if you want).


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

DaveMcSF said:


> you guys in agreement?


I am. :thumbsup:


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

ritelec said:


> ?
> 
> 9.3 x 1.25 = 11.6 15 amp
> 
> ...


You actually use table 430.248 for the FLC

2 Hp, at 230 volts is 12 amps.

12 X 1.25+15 Min circuit ampacity, so #14 wire is good.

12 x 2.5 =30 for the over current protection.

So #14 wire on a 30 amp breaker for this motor.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

DaveMcSF said:


> OK ----so consensus is 20 amp breaker--because 30 is too large--more than 2.5 times--are you guys in agreement?--Just wondering.


Nope. See my post


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Yes. Should go by chart. 
14's on a 30 ? 

Whatever floats your boat. 
I think the only time you could use 14 on anything but 15 amp is with an ac unit. 

IMO. 20 amp wire and breaker


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Just to ad one more thing before I go enjoy the day. The 250 percent thing. 
It says protection at NO MORE than that. Doesn't mean you have to go that high 



NJOY the day.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Just thinking. Not at a book right now but if that motor says two hp and the chart says 12 amps. Op. Keep the whole thing on the thirty that you have brk wire chord plug. But again at the 9 amps I would put it all at twenty amps. 

Also. Where's the breaker in relation to this motor. You may be able to hard wire it using the breaker as the disconnect.


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## 123pugsy (Oct 6, 2012)

ritelec said:


> Correct. change the outlet and plug to 20 amp so everything is 20 amp and there's no confusion (use the 10's if you want).


Why change the plug and outlet?
It's rated for 30 amps because it's made of stronger components.
The OP already has it installed.

I know I would rather have the stronger stuff on my circuit especially after turning off the switch to the furnace and having it come on just before I was about to oil the motor. 
The light duty switch was toast from all the start ups over the years.

(And yes, I should have turned off the breaker)


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

dmxtothemax said:


> FLA = 18.6 A
> So 20A outlet is fine !
> 
> :thumbsup:


At 230 volt(the voltage he is using) the FLA is only 9.3 amps.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

123pugsy said:


> Why change the plug and outlet?
> It's rated for 30 amps because it's made of stronger components.
> The OP already has it installed.
> 
> ...


was mentioning if you where going to install everything in 15 or 20 amp and install a 30 amp receptacle. Someone could think there was a 30 amp circuit there. Is all.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

ritelec said:


> was mentioning if you where going to install everything in 15 or 20 amp and install a 30 amp receptacle. Someone could think there was a 30 amp circuit there. Is all.


Wouldn't hurt anything. if they put a 25 amp device on it, it would just trip the breaker. They would find out its only on a 20 amp breaker when they went to reset it.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

beenthere said:


> Wouldn't hurt anything. if they put a 25 amp device on it, it would just trip the breaker. They would find out its only on a 20 amp breaker when they went to reset it.


? You would hope it just tripped the breaker, and wiring something with the thought of the next guy would find out it's only on a 20?

210.21 has restrictions for circuits and receptacles, Most seem to be
for receptacle of lesser amp than circuit, or more than one receptacle on a circuit.

So although I would not lets say put a 30 or 40 or 50 amp 2 pole receptacle on a 15 or 20 amp circuit, there seems to be no article saying you can't.


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

dmxtothemax said:


> FLA = 18.6 A So 20A outlet is fine ! :thumbsup:


Thought it was 220v?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

ritelec said:


> ? You would hope it just tripped the breaker, and wiring something with the thought of the next guy would find out it's only on a 20?
> 
> It will trip the breaker.
> 
> ...


Nothing wrong with having a higher amp rated then the breaker size like the OP has.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Echo echo echo
Isn't that what I said. I don't agree with it but. 

And. Have you ever experienced a breaker that didn't trip ? 

I have a few. (Even square D)

Not right to wire hoping or expecting a breaker would trip to show someone how you wired a circuit.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

ritelec said:


> Echo echo echo
> Isn't that what I said. I don't agree with it but.
> 
> And. Have you ever experienced a breaker that didn't trip ?
> ...


I've had both Zinsco, and FPE that didn't trip. The OP didn't say that he has either of those panels. Myself, I never ran into a sq D that didn't trip. If the breaker fails to trip, then it really doesn't matter what size wire he has.

If expecting a breaker to trip in this case is not right. Then expecting a breaker to trip in any case is not right. 

Remember, a breaker only protects the wire, not the device. The OP has a wire for a much higher amp draw then his compressor is listed to draw, so the wire is protected by the 20 amp breaker. And if it fails to trip, the larger wire size can take a much higher amp draw then a 12 gauge wire can. 

The compressor motor has its own internal over load protection. So the breaker has no bearing on the motors protection.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Ha ha ha. 

Well I have seen square d not trip. 

And you could defend your view till the cows come home. 

But IMO it's not right or good practice.

And I'm not just talking about the breaker that doesn't trip. Down the road. 

Let's see. I have a 30 amp load. Male plug and. Cord. A thirty amp receptacle 

A circuit that's where I need it. But the breakers 20 amp. Well should be ok to "just" changethe breaker to a thirty. 
That didn't happen yet and projecting or speculating but isn't that what we do. 


So I'm still sure you won't see my point.and will have to come back with but this or that. But that's ok. 

Again. The nec doesn't say you can't do it. But it doesn't say a lot of things you shouldn't do.

IMO. I can have one of those right?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

ritelec said:


> Ha ha ha.
> 
> Well I have seen square d not trip.
> 
> ...


The OP posted he is using 10 gauge wire. So what harm would there be if someone put a 30 amp breaker in down the road to run a load that requires a 30 amp breaker?


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Correct. None.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

I do want to mention. 

I come here to help the diy'er. 

But also for me. 

To confirm what I know. Correct what I thought I knew. 
Learn about what I didn't know. And think about things I didn't think about. 

So

Although at times it's very irritating weeding through the egos and personalities. I do appreciate this place. 

Thank you all


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## Robpo (Mar 30, 2014)

beenthere said:


> The OP posted he is using 10 gauge wire. So what harm would there be if someone put a 30 amp breaker in down the road to run a load that requires a 30 amp breaker?


My thought was if there was something else on that circuit with 12 or 14ga wire. This is probably not common practice, but I guess possible. Do circuits with 10ga wire have to be dedicated?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Robpo said:


> My thought was if there was something else on that circuit with 12 or 14ga wire. This is probably not common practice, but I guess possible. Do circuits with 10ga wire have to be dedicated?


No, they don't have to be dedicated.


What recep he has means nothing as to whether or not something else is on that circuit. He is only putting in a 20 amp breaker.


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

Well, I appreciate all your posts and the inherent education--I now know far more than I ever wanted to know about this particular outlet. Here's what as a layman I think has been brought to light:
1. outlets, wire and breaker should be matched
2. One can have a larger capacity wire and outlet than breaker--
3. One should not though have a larger capacity breaker than wire or outlet
4.#1 is not required by code but is best practice
5. #2 is not required by code but is not best practice---trips may occur--or worse
6. #3 is required by code and if ignored could definitely result in damage and harm
The reasoning was that I was duplicating off the sub panel what an electrician and his apprentice had installed off my main panel---the wire size was not copied--I went to the internet for that based on the outlet #10 was recommended. I went to a GFCI because I judged it to be safer for an outside outlet--my call --I know it is not necessary. I went with a 20 amp because that is what the electrician put in the main panel--so he undersized the breaker--and it has never popped under my use which has been minimal. Because of what I have read here I am reluctant to upsize the breaker--that seems outside the formulas given--so I will most likely change the outlet but leave the upsize wire in place. Doing that will avoid any confusion down the line where a user (after I die) thinks they can plug in a 30 amp appliance--most likely---resulting in a popped breaker. Thanks again for all your advice--love it. I was a hi rise interiors Superintendent for 32 years in San Francisco--so I Had occasion to work with many levels of Electricians--you guys get very good training---and it shows David


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

ritelec said:


> just adding Dave. the breaker will be protecting the wire. The thermal overload is protecting the motor. BUT as in a couple posts back, the breaker can't be larger than 250 percent of the full load current. That was the 23.25 number. So 30 is too large. edit: and as recommended here save the money and get a regular two pole breaker. (maybe put that money to a new 20 amp receptacle and male plug)


Where in the NEC does it state the breaker can't be larger then 250%?


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

go ahead, what are you getting at.

I was referencing the branch circuit short circuit and ground fault protection to the motor. 430.58

Enlighten me if you have more info. Thank you.


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

ritelec said:


> go ahead, what are you getting at.
> 
> I was referencing the branch circuit short circuit and ground fault protection to the motor. 430.58
> 
> Enlighten me if you have more info. Thank you.


430.58 refers you back to 430.52. Read the entire article.


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

beenthere said:


> At 230 volt(the voltage he is using) the FLA is only 9.3 amps.


According to the NEC the motor draws 12 amps @ 230 volt. That being said, the BC conductors have to be rated for 15A. #14 will be compliant. The OC device can be as high as a 30A ITCB.

Please refer to the link in my signature for sizing motor conductors and OC devices.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

electures said:


> 430.58 refers you back to 430.52. Read the entire article.


Correct.

250 %


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

electures said:


> According to the NEC the motor draws 12 amps @ 230 volt. That being said, the BC conductors have to be rated for 15A. #14 will be compliant.


agreed.





electures said:


> The OC device can be as high as a 30A ITCB.


disagree.

Thought 14's or 12's on 30's and 40's where for AC units "only".

I will read your links, but I disagree at this point.


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

ritelec said:


> agreed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Please refer to the double asterick at the bottom of *310.15(B)(16).
*


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

240.4 (D) 14's on 15 amp..

and?


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

ritelec said:


> 240.4 (D) 14's on 15 amp.. and?


Did you read it?


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Will look deper into it. 240.4(G)

As mentioned, thought that only applied to air-conditioning units.

Would it apply to "all" motors.

Pool pumps, lathes, drill presses?

Throw 240.4 (D) (3) out the window when talking about motors?

thank you.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

jbfan said:


> You actually use table 430.248 for the FLC
> 
> 2 Hp, at 230 volts is 12 amps.
> 
> ...


I stand corrected.

Thanks guys.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

ritelec said:


> I stand corrected.
> 
> Thanks guys.


Like you said earlier, you are here to make sure what you know is correct and learn new things,

Believe me, when I was first taught this, I thought there were crazy.


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## DaveMcSF (Mar 17, 2014)

So --anyone want to translate that little banter?
30 amp breakers is back in play?


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

DaveMcSF said:


> So --anyone want to translate that little banter?
> 30 amp breakers is back in play?


For motors and anything else in 240.4(G), yes.

Now if the motor fails to start and run, the ITCB can be increased up to a 45A breaker.

Before we start a flood of posts agreeing or disagreeing with me, I do not advise this unless the installation warrents it. In a residential install like the OP's I doubt it is neccessary. However, in an industrial occupancy it chould change.

If the OP's compressor has a cord and plug then match the receptacle to the plug. The breaker can still be upsized if need be.


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## ritelec (Aug 30, 2009)

Can that general purpose receptacle serve as a motor disconnect ? 

Things aren't sounding right. 

Let's say that circuit was ran for a motor. It was installed next to a laundry area.
30 breaker. 14 wire. 30 amp receptacle. 

The house is sold. The new owner decides to install a electric dryer. 

They have an existing 30 amp receptacle and circuit breaker 

Would they be in the wrong to use it fir their dryer?

Or any other 30 amp load they may want to feed. 
Heat. Oven. Hot plate. Welder. ??

Not fighting you on this. Just tiring to get an understanding of this. 


Also. Is it permissible to run a two pole 30 amp circuit and receptacle then using 14's to a window Air conditioner ? 


Thanks


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## electures (Dec 22, 2009)

ritelec said:


> Can that general purpose receptacle serve as a motor disconnect ? Things aren't sounding right. Let's say that circuit was ran for a motor. It was installed next to a laundry area. 30 breaker. 14 wire. 30 amp receptacle. The house is sold. The new owner decides to install a electric dryer. They have an existing 30 amp receptacle and circuit breaker Would they be in the wrong to use it fir their dryer? Or any other 30 amp load they may want to feed. Heat. Oven. Hot plate. Welder. ?? Not fighting you on this. Just tiring to get an understanding of this. Also. Is it permissible to run a two pole 30 amp circuit and receptacle then using 14's to a window Air conditioner ? Thanks


A plug is permitted to serve as a disconnect as long as it is HP rated.


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