# colloidal clay in well water



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

I had a new well drilled a few weeks ago. The driller advised me to run the water slowly continuously to clear the water. I ran the well at ~ 1 GPM for days and the well motor burned out (when I took it apart it was full of gray silt). I replaced the motor and have run the well at wide open for hours, then at 1 GPM for hours. Shut it off, started back up, etc. Sometimes the water starts to get somewhat clear, then turns black, then back to dark gray. I put some alum in a jar and it settled the gray out. I would prefer not having to install settling tanks with alum injection, etc. Would a water softener do anything with clay? Any ideas on how to clear the clay from the well? Is running wide open better than slow? Should I run it continuously or off and on? Will the clay clog the pump motor and burn it out? (Goulds pump). Thanks for any advise you have!


----------



## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

I am not sure from your post that you actually have clay in your system. It could be silt. The difference between clay and silt is that clay is a particular type of mineral (there are many different types of minerals in the clay family), while silt refers to a particular particle size. Usually silt is very fine sand, but it could be very fine rock particles, and a few other types of materials.

The point is that silt will suspend in water, meaning it will not settle out. Most of the time, clay does not suspend in water, because it forms microscopic sheets. You can eliminate silt from your water by installing the proper size screen in your well. I am surprised your well driller did not discuss this with you. You did not discuss any details regarding the installation of the well, specifically depth, diameter, amount of open casing, type of screen, normal depth of water, chemical content of the water, or drilling technique. These could all be relevant to the problem you are having. Perhaps you can post with the specific details of your well, and we can make some progress in diagnosing the issue and offering options.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

After my first post I realized I should have included some more information. The well is a drilled well, 6" diameter, 220' deep, 20' casing and the pump is at 200'. The pump is a Goulds and has no special screen on it. This area has lots of clay and sulphur. The ground all around the drill site is covered with gray clay runoff. There is also a lot of shale in the ground. When I let the well settle over night the water level in the casing is about 4' down from the ground surface. 

I have tried pouring the water through a coffee filter and it leaves no traces of anything (clay or silt). I have talked with people who live around here and clay seems to be the problem. From what I have been able to find on the internet clay seems to be the answer - colloidal clay. Other people have used alum in a settling tank to cause it to settle out, then flush the tank on a regular basis. I am still running the water out of the top of the well hoping it will clear up before I have to connect it to the house when temperatures get below freezing. 

Yesterday I started running the pump wide open for 5 minutes, then off for 30, then on for 5, etc. I am running around 700 - 900 gallons a day through it and it is still gray and sometimes very dark gray/ black. Sulphur smell comes and goes.

What do you think? Can you suggest any home-made tests to see what works? Thanks again!


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

*colloidal clay?*

I hooked up a 5 micron filter to my well and ran the water. The water came out the same as before the filter was put on - cloudy and gray. If you hold the glass jar of water up to the sunlight it looks like gray clouds swirling around in the jar. Any Ideas?

Thanks.


----------



## Andy CWS (Apr 27, 2007)

If your water contain colloidal -anything- a typical filtration system will not work. You would need a flocculation system or a nano-membrane. Even with the nano-membrane, if the particulates are smaller than 0.01µ, they will still get through. This normally handles most of the problem but not all.

Colloidal problems are often caused by clay.

Andy Christensen, CWS-II


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Andy: thanks for the information. Seems like I need to do some type of flocculation. Do you have any sites that will give me the configuration for a system to inject something like Alum to settle the clay, flush, etc? 

I have dropped a pinch of Alum into a jar of water (32 Oz.) and it does settle the clay out. If I then shake it up, the clay will re-settle. From what I have read it is a negative charges particle (clay) needing a positively charged particle to force it to settle out. 

I'm new at this but willing to try just about anything.

Appreciate your input!


----------



## Andy CWS (Apr 27, 2007)

I couldn't find a website that shows you equipment. I have some personal pix that I will try to send. 

As water comes in, a alum pump draws solution from a tank and injects it into a retention tank. From there, the water goes into a backwashing filter. If you use a Class-A UV after this, you will need a large one-micron filter as a final clearing of the water.

In some cases, iodine is used instead of UV. This is injected prior to the retention tank giving it time to contact.

An RO is recommended for consumption water.

This water treatment is not simple but can be very effective.
Andy


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

BobMac said:


> I hooked up a 5 micron filter to my well and ran the water. The water came out the same as before the filter was put on - cloudy and gray. If you hold the glass jar of water up to the sunlight it looks like gray clouds swirling around in the jar. Any Ideas?
> 
> Thanks.


It sounds like you have drilling 'mud', bentonite because the well wasn't developed as it should have been; by the driller.

Check into what he did to develop it and for how long. Maybe get a lab to analyze the stuff and tell you if it is bentonite. If it's bentonite, making him make it right. It's gray IIRC. You running water is supposed to clean it out but rarely does because you cant' run a large enough volume of water to pull the water level down in the well far enough. He can bail or purge the well or air lift it.

*WELL DRILLING:* Drilling mud, or drilling gel, is a major component in the well drilling process. Drilling mud is crucial in the extraction of drill cuttings during the drilling process. Bentonite, when mixed with water, forms a fluid (or slurry) that is pumped through the drill stem, and out through the drill bit. The bentonite extracts the drill cuttings from around the bit, which are then floated to the surface. The drilling mud, or gel, also serves to cool and lubricate the drill bit as well as seal the drill hole against seepage and to prevent wall cave-ins.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

I have actually drawn the well down to where it's out of water a couple of times. I still go through the transparent, gray and dark gray/black non-transparent stages. If it sits overnight a gray silt will settle to the bottom of the jar. The silt does not easily wash off the bottom of the jar. The driller pretty much drilled the hole, blew air through it to purge it and then left. The ground all around the well is covered with gray clay that hasn't gone away even after several hard rains. I am presently drawing household water from a lake, but it is going to get too cold to continue that and at that point I have to start using this well. I am drawing the well water directly out of the well and into the lake - not through the house, so I can pump at ~ 10 gallons a minute. I've been running as much as 1800 gallons a day and still have the same cloudy water. If I swirl the water and hold the jar up to sunlight I see clouds swirling around in the water. The clouds go from very light gray to very dark gray as I draw the water. I also get small black particles sometimes which I believe is shale. Any suggestions?


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

Sounds and acts like drilling mud to me. The gray stuff on the ground is drilling cuttings and probably bentonite, not clay.

You keep pulling the well down, you can cause other problems, **** the black particles you're seeing. IMO you need to talk to the well driller and and have him develop the well.


----------



## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Gary, I don't quite follow your final post. You say "The gray stuff on the ground is drilling cuttings and probably bentonite, not clay". Bentonite is a particular type of clay, mined originally in Benton, Wyoming. The OPS seems to have suspended clay or silt in his water, I don't understand how you are so certain that the clay or silt is not naturally occurring, but rather is from the drilling mud. Certainly a chemical analysis would reveal the exact type of clay in the water, which would probably answer the question of whether it was natural or was from the drilling mud, but in the absence of such a test, it could be naturally occurring.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

After running significant amounts of water for almost a month I'm inclined to think the clay is natural. The whole well hole is through shale and from what I understand there is a lot of clay between the layers of shale. I suspect that since my recovery is about 1.5 to 2 GPM that the veins are not flushing themselves out when I draw down but are just slowly running in. I have thought about agitating the water in the well hoping to flush the veins, like plunging a toilet. ?? What do you think about that idea? I still have about a week to "play" before I have to hook up to the house because it will be too cold to draw from the lake.

I appreciate your input! Thanks!


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

Yes Dan Bentonite is a type of clay. It is used as a drill lubricant but more so to keep the sides of the hole from falling in as it is being drilled with rotary drilling rigs. 

Developing a well is agitation like you say a toilet plunger does, it washes the Bentonite out of the seams and off the walls of the well. The driller uses a bailer or air lifts the water and then dumps it back down the hole, to agitate it.

Bob, drillers today are not the craftsmen of years gone by, they have much more expensive equipment, they are in very tough competition, and usually do very little developing due to quoting very low prices which don't allow for many hours or days worth to develop a well. So they tell their customer to run water until it clears. And some never clears because there isn't enough water run gpm wise and there is no agitation. So at best, the seams are cleared with recovery water flow but nowhere between the seams.

All that doesn't mean there is no natural clay or that it isn't the cause, but it is much more likely drilling mud If the development of the well was done as it usually is today. A $300-$450 camera inspection probably would show which is which.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

I talked to a local well water treatment guy today. He confirmed the problem locally with collodial clay. Pretty much his recommendation is to install the usual system consisting of an injection, settling tank and filter. I understand the principle here, but was hoping to find a less space/$$ involved system. I asked about the water softener. My understanding is that the clay is negatively charged and the softener is positively charged. Seems it should attract the neg. clay?? I'm only a week +/- from "have to do it." He also suggested just hooking up and seeing what it does when only used in the usual amount a house would use rather than the 1,500 - 2,000 gallons per day I have been running. He said if it hasn't cleared by now it probably won't. What do you think?

Again, thanks!


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

I would talk to the well driller as I've suggested 2-3 times, and have him tell me what he did to develop the well.

Treating colloidal clay is not easy and from what I hear, not always successful. I'd want to rent the equipment for a month to see if it did the job. Actually, colloidal clay won't settle, it stays in solution, so the equipment will be using a coagulant.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Thanks, Gary. I will ask the well driller, but I am guessing his "developing the well" is pretty much drilling the hole. My contract with him did not specify any particular quality of water, etc. Seems like I either have to get the shovel out and dig up my dug well that I used for years with little problem, or bite the bullet and pay $$$ for treatment. No magic bullets around these days  I will continue to post any progress.


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

I guess I'm not saying this clearly enough.... *if this is drilling mud*, he didn't construct the well properly, regardless of what your contract says, and this is not a groundwater quality problem that he has no control over, HE created this problem (by not developing the well properly). 

He didn't create it IF it is natural clay. I can not see how it could be natural clay. A test of the material or a camera inspection of the sides of the well, below the end of the casing, should tell you which it is.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Thanks again, Gary. I had a treatment company come over today. He told me it is clay, natural. It is a problem in my area. He recommended installing an injection pump, solution tank, and two settling tanks for $3,500. I'm trying to "cheap out" and hope to get things to a level I can live with and possibly filter (somewhat). During the warmer months I will switch back to drawing lake water and not have to deal with this nasty stuff. 

I started to re-configure my tank location from inside to the garage where I have more room to add more thanks if I need to. The garage is heated so freezing should not be a problem. Makes for a lot of turns and bends in the plumbing, but it will allow me more room to make changes.

The water today was gray, cloudy with black specs (shale). If you hold it up you can see through it somewhat. I've gone down to drawing water for 1 minute about once an hour. I'll keep trying and see what works.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

The well water has been hooked up to the house for a week now. The water was gray and smelled of sulphur. I tried putting 3 cups of bleach into the well two times with no luck on the smell. I had a 5 micron carbon whole house filter that seemed to work on the grayness for a few days. When things did not clear up I put 1/2 gallon bleach into the well and replaced the 5 micron filter with a 2 micron carbon filter. The has been good for three days so far, but I suspect the 2 micron filter will need to be replaced once a week or more. Still cheaper than a treatment system. In about 4 months I can go back to lake water!!


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Here we are a few weeks running the well. It was pretty good for several days, then turns dark for a day, then back to good. The past two days have been really bad - black water. The lake froze over about the same time the water turned black/dark gray. The well is about 50' from the lake shore. I have been running the water continuously today to try to clear the well. I guess there's new veins opening up running through clay. It is also burping air/gas each time the pump reaches shut-off. I've tried to light the air/gas and it doesn't light, so I guess it's not methane. I'm still plugging away at it and will update if I find a cure!! If there are any suggestions for do it yourself I'd appreciate hearing them. Merry Christmas!!


----------



## user69544 (Dec 31, 2009)

To the OP. IMO, your well does not have enough casing. It happens.

Talk to you driller about extending the casing with a liner.

Also, contact your health department on this. In my state this well would never be approved. I think your health department will help you.

I do not mean the driller should liner this for free either.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

*collidial clay*

I'm still "working" on my well. I can have a week or two of clear, no smell water and then it turns gray/black. I put 1 1/2 gallons of bleach into the well yesterday and I do not smell any bleach in the water today. The last time I did this it took several days before I smelled bleach and then the water was yellowish for a few days. After that the water cleared up and was great for almost two weeks. I run the water through a "whole house" carbon wrapped filter to take the bleach back out before it hits the sinks, etc. but I check it at the pressure tank. I am still getting hydrogen sulfide gas. It used to be accompanied by black water and black sediment. Now it is pretty much just gas. You don't appreciate good water until you have bad water!!!


----------



## user69544 (Dec 31, 2009)

BobMac said:


> I'm still "working" on my well. I can have a week or two of clear, no smell water and then it turns gray/black. I put 1 1/2 gallons of bleach into the well yesterday and I do not smell any bleach in the water today. The last time I did this it took several days before I smelled bleach and then the water was yellowish for a few days. After that the water cleared up and was great for almost two weeks. I run the water through a "whole house" carbon wrapped filter to take the bleach back out before it hits the sinks, etc. but I check it at the pressure tank. I am still getting hydrogen sulfide gas. It used to be accompanied by black water and black sediment. Now it is pretty much just gas. You don't appreciate good water until you have bad water!!!


Why the hesitation on fixing the well?? It is the driller's problem not yours.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

The contract for drilling the well states that they do not guarantee the quantity nor the quality of the water. Their answer would pretty much be to contact a treatment company like Culligan.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Here's another interesting point. The water coming out of the well (after putting in 1 1/2 gallons bleach yesterday) is transparent gray/blackish. When I put the water into a container and add a little bleach to it it goes from dark to clear/yellowish almost instantly. The question is why doesn't this happen in the well with all the bleach I put in? Seems the bleach should have the same effect on the water in the well as it does in the container.


----------



## user69544 (Dec 31, 2009)

BobMac said:


> The contract for drilling the well states that they do not guarantee the quantity nor the quality of the water. Their answer would pretty much be to contact a treatment company like Culligan.


Did you get a permit??? If so talk to who issued it.

What state are you in?


----------



## user69544 (Dec 31, 2009)

BobMac said:


> Here's another interesting point. The water coming out of the well (after putting in 1 1/2 gallons bleach yesterday) is transparent gray/blackish. When I put the water into a container and add a little bleach to it it goes from dark to clear/yellowish almost instantly. The question is why doesn't this happen in the well with all the bleach I put in? Seems the bleach should have the same effect on the water in the well as it does in the container.


Because this is a well construction failure.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

I'm in New York. The driller had the water tested for coliform and filed a "water well completion report" with NYS. This pretty much seems the norm around here - they drill, you treat (or hire a treatment company).


----------



## user69544 (Dec 31, 2009)

BobMac said:


> I'm in New York. The driller had the water tested for coliform and filed a "water well completion report" with NYS. This pretty much seems the norm around here - they drill, you treat (or hire a treatment company).


Your code states POTABLE water. Yours is not POTABLE. Contact who wrote the permit. If they won't act file a complaint with the state.

Your well does not code.


----------



## arcticbouncer (Jan 24, 2010)

OK you keep saying the little black specs are shale... You keep dumping in bleach to get rid of your hydrogen sulfide gas, you suspect you have collidilal caly, and you have a yellowish tint in your water . HOlD ON TIGHT, here we go. The funny thing about sulfur is when it oxodizes it turns into little black particles, and Iron ( ferrous and non-ferrous ) turns yellow or brown when oxodized, you completed/started this reaction when you added the bleach to the well . you had a water test done by a treatment company... what were the results Ph, Alk, hardness, Hyd sulf, Iron ??? If you have the worst case scenario Fe, Sulfur, and collodial clay The same system is capeable of treating all 3 at the same time if you know what you are doing. I know the concept of dumping money into a treament system does not sound like fun but , you pick FUNKEY water or write the check or guess and do it yourself . What part of NY are you in ?? get some more information and the answers will come .


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

*treatment options*

I agree with your assessment of my water - sulfur and iron. I can actually pick out pieces of black "stuff" and rub it between my fingers and it leaves an oily/greasy mark. If I fill a pitcher of water (when it's black) and add a couple drops of bleach it starts to swirl on its own and will clear the black color from it. What's left is yellowish (iron) but it does not precipitate anything out. 
Your post suggests that you have ideas on how to treat my problems with one system. I'd appreciate knowing what you have in mind. I have been told to use a chlorine injection and a holding tank to treat my problem. I'm located in Saratoga County.
Look forward to hearing from you.


----------



## NHMaster (Dec 21, 2009)

Your options here are limited. You either need to see if you can get the well repaired and properly developed or you are going to have to put together filtration equipment to deal with it. Unfortunately, both options are going to be expensive. Cheaping it out is a bad idea indeed. Crap equipment, when conditions are as bad as yours, have a tendency to go south in short order. I like to think of it like the guy who buys a crapo char-Broil grill every year for 150 bucks instead of buying the Webber and having something that will last 15 or 20 years. Do it once. Do it right.


----------



## waterman1971 (Apr 19, 2009)

BobMac said:


> I agree with your assessment of my water - sulfur and iron. I can actually pick out pieces of black "stuff" and rub it between my fingers and it leaves an oily/greasy mark. If I fill a pitcher of water (when it's black) and add a couple drops of bleach it starts to swirl on its own and will clear the black color from it. What's left is yellowish (iron) but it does not precipitate anything out.
> Your post suggests that you have ideas on how to treat my problems with one system. I'd appreciate knowing what you have in mind. I have been told to use a chlorine injection and a holding tank to treat my problem. I'm located in Saratoga County.
> Look forward to hearing from you.


If there is in fact dissolved iron in the water raise the ph up to around 10.2 and it will come out of solution. Alum injection will speed the settling process, but what will you do with the sludge you create? Aeration can be used to remove the sulphur.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

I agree with both replies - cheaping out is not the way to go and that alum will settle out quickly. The alum made a big difference after the well was first drilled. I would put well water into a jar, add alum and it would settle out pretty quickly. After I had been using the well for a while bleach seemed to work as well or better than the alum. Maybe the clay I was getting early on was drilling clay or natural clay in the veins running into the well - clay and shale are very prevalent in this area.

I have switched over to lake water for the season and have time to play around with the well. Other people in this area have had their wells for 20 or more years and still experience the same problems I have. Some use injection/settling tanks, some use chlorine tablet droppers directly into the well. Nobody seems to be completely happy with their results. Developing the well does not seem to be the answer. Before I switched over to the lake I put 50' of garden hose down the well and I would pour bleach into it, then circulate the water through the system and back into the well for about 30 minutes. That would take the smell and the gray/black out of the water. Then I ran it through a carbon wrapped filter and that took the bleach back out, but the filter had a life of about a week. The whole treatment would only last about a week. Before I used the hose to inject the bleach 50' down into the well it would take a couple days for the bleach to react and clear up the water.

When I stopped using the well I put 1 1/2 gallons of household bleach down, circulated it and am letting it sit. In a few weeks I'll turn the well back on and draw it down to see how it is doing, then I'll put a few gallons of bleach back in and let it sit again.

I am willing to invest time and effort to make this work, and, if need be, money for a good system (last resort). 

What do you think?


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Does anyone have any experience with the "Reactr" pressure aeration systems? CSI water treatment systems out of Ashland, OH sells this unit which they say will remove sulphur and iron without any chemicals. The system seems pretty simple, but I an skeptical about its ability to remove sulphur and iron. I have a question in to them to see if it will remove clay from the water. I would appreciate any feed-back about experiences with this type system.
Thanks!


----------



## Mr. Green (May 1, 2010)

Interesting thread. This is a well problem and that is where the only permanent fix will come from. Down in the well.

If the first driller will not fix it, find one who will.


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

Constantly adding bleach to the well is a serious no no. 

Chlorine and steel casing is not a good combination because the chlorine corrodes the steel (especially when it sits there for weeks/months on end) but, you can also create a serious health problem known as THMs (trihalomethanes) known carcinogens measured in parts per Billion.

You need to stop self doctoring and pull the trigger by going after the driller or getting the right type of water treatment equipment before you shoot your self.

If this driller is like most he may be the one that has drilled most of the wells in the neighborhood, and not flushed out his drilling mud and has everyone convinced (read guessing) it's natural clay.

And not using the well is not going to make the problem go away, more than likely it will make things worse. And don't by the pressurized aeration if all it is is the control valve sucking some air into the tank with a regeneration of backwash. They don't work but, no type of aeration will not get rid of 'clay'.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Thanks again, Gary. People keep recommending "developing the well." How is that done? Is it something I can do myself? Adding bleach is not a health issue since we don't use the well water for drinking or cooking, but I am aware of the effects. Thanks for pointing it out.


----------



## Mr. Green (May 1, 2010)

BobMac said:


> Thanks again, Gary. People keep recommending "developing the well." How is that done? Is it something I can do myself? Adding bleach is not a health issue since we don't use the well water for drinking or cooking, but I am aware of the effects. Thanks for pointing it out.


Are you aware?

The chemicals is a necessary evil at times but, is hard on the pump and well.

There is nothing YOU can do to change this.

You need a pro.


----------



## Gary Slusser (Sep 16, 2008)

BobMac said:


> Thanks again, Gary. People keep recommending "developing the well." How is that done? Is it something I can do myself? Adding bleach is not a health issue since we don't use the well water for drinking or cooking, but I am aware of the effects. Thanks for pointing it out.


It is done by a driller or pump guy with a drilling rig or hoist/derrick truck or large air compressor. All but the compressor is out for a homeowner and if you don't know how to do it it isn't something to learn on your own.

You know about the risks of super chlorination but still do it.... Do you realize that showering and bathing in that water is not good? IMO you need to stop the chlorination as you are doing it and get the chlorine out of the well within hours after chlorinating.


----------



## NHMaster (Dec 21, 2009)

I am in agreement with Mr. Slusser.


----------



## Mr. Green (May 1, 2010)

The driller will also have to extend the casing with a liner.

I always wonder why posters hesitate to call the drillers back about things.


----------



## BobMac (Nov 11, 2009)

Winter is coming, so I broke down and bought a used treatment system from a guy lucky enough to have town water come to his house. I have an alum injection pump, chlorine injection pump, 2 120gal settling tanks, a gravel filter and a carbon filter. He drew a diagram of how he had it hooked up, but I have seen other configurations and am not sure which is the best way to do it. Here's some of my questions: Can I mix the alum and chlorine together in one tank or do I need to do them separately? The person I bought the stuff from had the two settling tanks' input coming from a common line. I have seen other ones where the water goes into the first tank inlet, then from the outlet of that tank to the inlet of the 2nd tank. Which is better? Seems the second way should be better. He had the water go to the gravel filter then the carbon filter. Is that best? And finally, any opinions about using Pex piping? I would be mixing the pex with the existing PVC pipe.

Appreciate your input.


----------



## AaronDIYER (Jan 15, 2013)

Gary - I saw your post regarding the colloidal clay in well water. We have a 150 deep drilled well. Around christmas time the flapper on the toilet broke, water ran all day, and now its gray cloudy. I let it sit for a couple of days, then ran it at 1 fpm for about 2 hours. Water turned black and gray. Its been sitting for about two weeks and was wondering what I could do before I call a well driller. Well is about 30 years old and have had no problems since drilled.


----------



## Kimberlyrelyea (Apr 23, 2015)

*Colloidal clay*

I spent $10,000 on a well. And $10,000 on a system to remove clay after the well was Fracked. And that was in the cheap end. I have one tank the water is sprayed into to remove methane and help with suffer. Chlorine is injected at that point. Then alum is injected on the way to the 3 settling tanks I have (about 400 gallons). The tanks then feed to a backwash filter that removes the chlorine and whatever else. Lately I have been having issues with still seeing cloudy water. Of course, it's since my husband left....so thank god at least I know the basics. He had wanted to put a reverse osmosis system in, but frankly, I've spent enough. I am using Aluminum Sulfate that I get from Culligan as a flocculant. I am wondering if there are others I could try. I also am in NY, AND PRETTY MUCH ALL they care about is gal per min. No guarantees on water quality. I have 8gal a min with 500 feet of storage in well. Pump is at about 350. Open to ideas our suggestions myself. Thank you


----------



## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Welcome to the forum kimberly.

This post is over 6 years old. Best to start a new one, you will get better results and there will be less confusion. Just a suggestion. 

Members tend to ignore old posts.


----------

