# Roll Roofing Edge Leak



## toolboxone (Sep 28, 2009)

Hi, I have a frustrating problem that I would appreciate some help with. I am a carpenter (not a roofer) who installed a 70 ft. long porch on a beach house (my house). It is L-shaped in plan with a hip in the corner and the roof is 7 ft. 8 in. wide (by 70 ft, long). To maintain the height I tapered the top of the rafters so there is a 3/4" to the foot slope and installed the porch roof just under the existing soffit. The bottom of the rafters are flat and suppport a vinyl ceiling.

I went to a professional roofing supplier and bought a heavy white roll roofing material, don't remember what it was called. It came with a second roll of lighter material (much heavier than 15# felt but lighter than the roofing. And a 5 gal bucket of cement. I installed alum edging all the way around and nailed the lighter material down to the deck per instructions. I then spread the cement onto the lighter materialand glued down the heavy roofing. All went well. 

In time water began wicking around the bottom edge of the roofing and getting the edge of the plywood, the rafter tails, and the fascia, in spots along the entie run, wet. The water apprears to somehow roll right around the edge. Only the first couple of inches gets wet, but that is too much.

I went up and glued on a 6 in. strip of roofing along the edge on top of the existing roof, leaving more overhang. But water continues to get around the edge. It is in maybe a half dozen spots now.

Something I noticed is: On the back of the house I left more overhang than I did on the side. I pretty much lined up the roofing with the edge of the edging on the side, but on the back let it overhang close to 2 in. There is no problem back there, but it doesn't look too attractive.

I want to fix it for good. I bought more roofing. I want to repair it without removing the entire roof. I am thinking of cutting the roofing about 6 in. below the first seam (about 36 in) and nailing down new roofing base material, installing new edging, then regluing the heavy top layer, leaving a 6 in overlap onto the older roofing material and a 1 1/2" overhang at the drip edge.

Any advice from anyone? I would like to do this once.

Thanks!


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

have any pics of the flashing?
ive seen gravel stop used for roll roofing flashing,makes a nice 
place for water to pool at the eave


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## toolboxone (Sep 28, 2009)

*No Pics Right Now*

Sorry, I don't have a pic and won't get down to the house for another week. What I used was was an alum drip edge purchased from Lowe's, the kind you install under asphalt tab shingles. I placed it under both layers of roofing and I suspect this may have contributed to my problem since the water apprears to roll right around the edge of the roofing and under the roofing.


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## AaronB (Jan 29, 2005)

Low slope roofing requires a heavier, wider perimeter flashing than what is readily available at the home stores.

Also, the detail needs:

Base sheet
Cap sheet
L type Perimeter flashing braked to meet the roof/fascia angle (primed with asphalt primer and allowed to dry. I'm guessing you got sbs modified bitumen)
Cover strip properly ahered and sealed.

Let me know what material you got.


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## toolboxone (Sep 28, 2009)

*Another Question*

I think where I have a problem is with the edge flashing. How far up the roof should the L-shaped perimenter flashing extend? Should it be installed on top of or underneath the base course?


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

WIth or without the metal, the overhanging roof will work best.


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