# d.i.y. radon mitigation?



## smallcrpt (Jan 15, 2007)

I have a "french" drain installed around the rim of my basement that leads to a sump pump that pumps the water out of my basement. 
Well i just got a reading done of our radon in the basement before we finish most of it and it was a 10, not terrible,but not acceptable.
The radon guys said to caulk the drain line at the bottom of the wall and that might lower the radon levels to acceptable levels. The basement pump guy said that voids my warranty(sp?). 
The radon guys plan was to attach the PVC into the sump pump and vent the gas out the wall into open air w/ the Fan.. I can do that pretty easy myself, but i'm looking for schematics and where to buy the PVC inline fan.
Hope someone out there has DIY this before, because it seems pretty easy, I have power there already.
They want 750 plus another 140 for another test...or i hope i can spend 40 bucks in parts and viola...
=Thanks
chris


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## 52Caddy (Jun 5, 2007)

Hey Chris,
I had this done a few month back by a mitigation company. We bought the house from a couple that were being relocated by a company; that company paid for the testing and subsequent system installation. If they wouldn't have I would have done it myself.
The installation seemed very straight forward. The only part that seemed like a bit of experience really helped with was the hammer drilling down to the drain tile tubing. I can only guess I would have made a few extra holes looking for it.
Anyway, all they did was just about what you described. Put a new cover on the sump, drilled down to the drain tile, put up some PVC from the basement to the garage and then up to the fan right below the roof. Piece of cake if you ask me. 
I'm pretty sure this is the one that they put in our place. Fantech
Let me know if you want any other info or pictures.
Eric


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## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*that's all we ever did,,,*

w/acrylic caulk in tubes,,, is there black ( or other color ) pvc sticking up 4"-6"-8" from the floor against the wall ?,,, if so, right on top of it.

if not, i don't know,,, we used to get the parts from a wholesale plumbing distributor.


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## smallcrpt (Jan 15, 2007)

*kewl*

i'm thinking of diy'ng this. i'm pretty sure if i tap into the upper portion of the drain sump it should pull air out of the whole system. 
and i think home depot offers a radon testing and send it away. so hopefully i can save there too.
-chris


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Radon mitigation is very self doable. You just have to make sure that the work you do meets code.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what kind of caulk/foam that's used to seal sump lids? I know it's not epoxy, b/c it does not dry hard. The color is grey, and when you touch it, it feels like spray foam, but it's not. It seems easy to remove.


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## so-elitecrete (Oct 27, 2007)

*we used foam tape,,,*

no idea of anything else.


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## smallcrpt (Jan 15, 2007)

can you find codes online for PA radon mitigation? or do you ahve to purchase the whole book. is it state specific or national?
-chris


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

smallcrpt said:


> can you find codes online for PA radon mitigation? or do you ahve to purchase the whole book. is it state specific or national?
> -chris


If the design is external, it must be 2 feet above the roof line, and 10 feet horizontal distance from a window. Also, good practice is to have a dedicated on/off switch.


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## Radonguy (Nov 20, 2007)

Hi smallcrpt,

I offer a DIY radon kit. There are a lot of so called DIY radon sites out there but to get it done right the first time you need a little direction. I have had numerous jobs where the system installed was not installed to proper mitigation standards or the fan was incorrectly sized for the job. Also with your situation you must be careful not create a back draft situation with the combustion appliances in your home nor do you want suck all the condition air out of the house. So be careful that you don't end up spending more than you need to. I have the materials and the personal direction you need to get it done right the first time.

http://www.indoor-air-health-advisor.com/do-it-yourself-radon-mitigation.html
You can contact me through my website if you would like more info on my program.


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## thurst (Feb 25, 2011)

52Caddy said:


> Hey Chris,
> I had this done a few month back by a mitigation company. We bought the house from a couple that were being relocated by a company; that company paid for the testing and subsequent system installation. If they wouldn't have I would have done it myself.
> The installation seemed very straight forward. The only part that seemed like a bit of experience really helped with was the hammer drilling down to the drain tile tubing. I can only guess I would have made a few extra holes looking for it.
> Anyway, all they did was just about what you described. Put a new cover on the sump, drilled down to the drain tile, put up some PVC from the basement to the garage and then up to the fan right below the roof. Piece of cake if you ask me.
> ...


I know this thread is long-time dead, but would you be able to post these pictures?
I don't understand why they had to drill down to the tile if the tile drains into the sump.
I have slightly elevated radon (5-7) and a water problem in my basement and I'm planning to take care of both at the same time with a french drain that is ventilated. However, I'm a little unsure of how to vent it.


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## kb3ca (Aug 22, 2008)

There are a number of videos on YouTube that show how to do it. Parts are also available on-line.


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## BlueBSH (Oct 29, 2009)

dumb question, the code says 2 ft above roof line, what if your roof keeps changing its line? I have a 1 1/2 story house which has many tiers of roofs and no direct up path, and no way to run it inside the house either...

what exactly is 2 ft above the roof line? well i guess a better question is what is considerd the roof line of a house that has multiple height roofs


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## DIYAubie (Jul 1, 2015)

I just recently installed a unit on my house and have a question. Its a RadonAway RP145 on a 4" SCH 40 vent pipe. House is 3 years old and the suction point is directly above the interior perimeter drain. Pipe is routed out the side of the house where the fan is attached. 

My question is, I chose the location because it allows for the vent pipe to be affixed to the chimney and run directly up. I am aware that there can't be windows within 10 feet and the pipe needs to terminate 2 feet above the highest eave. Is there a limit as to proximity of the vent outlet to the top of the chimney?

I cannot meet the eave requirement and stay 10 feet from the chimney top. I did some reading and found an example in New York that its acceptable to terminiate the vent short of the top of the eave on that wall if there is no window, which I have none. 

It seems to me that stopping the vent 10 feet below the soffit and 10 feet above the ground would better dissipate the gas as its heavier than air and will descend flow away from the house. I am concerned about the gas being lifted from wind blowing across the roof and it entering the fireplace flue when its not in use.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Aubie


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