# freezer constantly runs



## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Please post model number. Thanks.


----------



## Jonscheets (Mar 11, 2013)

It's the kenmore coldspot 106. I should have mentioned it seems like the freezer and fridge are normal temps also. Thanks


----------



## Bird Doo Head (Dec 8, 2010)

I'm a bit late with this reply, so just in case you're still working on the machine...

First be sure to check the condenser coil & see if it is clean. The condenser coil is the gizmo that looks something like a car radiator. It is usually seen behind the kick panel. It's black. 

With modern, energy efficient refrigerators the coils are sized rather precisely to remove just enough heat from the refrigerant which was just compressed to cause it to condense into a liquid. For example, on my refrigerator even the smallest amount of dust or lint on the condenser will cause the unit to run seemingly forever while it tries to maintain set point temperature. 

(Sorry- Just noticed you already did this step. Maybe someone else can use the info- So I left it here.)

Next- Is the condenser fan running? When the compressor is operating, the fan should be on.

Third- 
This is very, very common- Defrost Failure
Is the evaporator iced up? You may be able to see a portion of it behind the air slots in the freezer compartment. If it is iced up, the easiest thing to do is wait a few hours & re-check. Check periodically for a whole day. This is to find out if it is defrosting. In normal use, there will be frost until the next defrost cycle. That's why you have to check periodically. Thick ice means you can be certain is is not defrosting. 

If it is not defrosting, somewhere buried under the fridge or in the kick panel is a piece of paper, all folded up into a tiny square & tucked away. That sheet is called the "Tech Sheet". It will have step-by-step instructions for how to test the defrost by using sequences of button pushed on your control panel. If you can't find the tech sheet, an on-line search will often reveal a pdf of it. 

On many models from Whirlpool (Kenmore, Maytag, Whrilpool, Amana, etc) the control board is famous for failing & thus preventing the unit from defrosting. If you unit has a "Jazz Board", it is the most troublesome control board of all. 

No defrost equals constant running and eventually a warm refrigerator. (And maybe compressor damage from liquid refrigerant 'slugging' back.) The tech sheet will let you confirm if the board is bad or if a defrost terminator or heater went wonky. Some units have a separate defrost board & some only have one Does-It-All board. Changing either board is super simple. The wires simply plug into the new board. (If you're handy with soldering, replacing the defrost relay on the board is also easy if that part is what failed.) 

You asked if the tank should be warm. I am guessing you're speaking of the compressor because domestic refrigerators rarely have receivers. Yes- It should be warm to the touch while the unit is running. Careful! It can also be quite hot. It's a good idea to clean this once in a while by dusting the top of it. The cooler the motor is, the longer it lasts. I always routinely clean everything I can find in my refrigerator. The last one I had lasted 43 years with the original compressor & both fan motors. I gave it up only for energy saving. My stand alone freezer lasted from 1962 to 2005. I gave it away in running condition. Why did they last so long? Cleaning! Simple, huh?

To be honest, if you can get the tech sheet you will be able to do all kinds of tests without special tools or meters. It's worth the hunt to find it. If you have trouble finding it on line, you may find a Maytag, Whirlpool or Amana (or a bunch of other brands) that have are the same. But, detective work is in order to find the right one. Some parts selling sites will send you to the right sheet.

I apologize this is long & tedious to read, but I hope it's helpful to you for saving the cost of a service call. 
Enjoy Today!
Paul


----------

