# Line from fridge compressor frosting over



## hardwareman

has the compressor been changed at some point ? the most likely cause of the suction line frosting all the way back to the compressor is an over charge of refrigerant. If that is not the case then I would look at excessively long run times and or evap fan motor not working. What are the temps?


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## igbomb

In January, a relay switch for the compressor was replaced and the refrigerant recharged. Since then it definitely does run more than it should, often for long stretches of time.

The internal temperature at this point is fine on each side. I don't have a thermometer to measure but I can't sense any decrease on either side.


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## igbomb

I just took a couple of pictures of the issue. You can see that the frost doesn't actually make its way to the compressor, but nearly all of the line from the freezer to the point shown in the picture is frosted.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/638/img1639es.jpg/


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## hardwareman

igbomb said:


> In January, a relay switch for the compressor was replaced and the refrigerant recharged.


theres your problem, it was overcharged. Was it low or why exactly did they recharge it?


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## igbomb

hardwareman said:


> theres your problem, it was overcharged. Was it low or why exactly did they recharge it?


The technician said it was low. No further explanation was given.

What do I need to do to get the water leak to stop? And could it have just started leaking recently, or would it have been leaking this whole time.


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## igbomb

hardwareman said:


> theres your problem, it was overcharged. Was it low or why exactly did they recharge it?



Also, does an overcharge cause the unit to run more often than it should?


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## hardwareman

an overcharge will make your compressor run longer and harder than need be, if left in this condition you are reducing the life of your compressor dramatically. Of course if there was a leak in the system it shouldn't be long before the overcharge is gone.


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## igbomb

hardwareman said:


> an overcharge will make your compressor run longer and harder than need be, if left in this condition you are reducing the life of your compressor dramatically. Of course if there was a leak in the system it shouldn't be long before the overcharge is gone.



Then I should feel confident I don't have a leak since they re-charged my system eight months ago.


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## hardwareman

if that is the case then your repair tech ripped you off, if there is no leak there would have been no reason to recharge in the first place


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## Jacques

That's unfortunate. he prob didn't use the correct relay/overload either. the only correct way to repair now would be; call Sears and they'll blow that charge, take out tap a line and recharge with new drier to correct amount. they'll insist you replace relay/ol if not oem. pretty $$$. if you call that guy back he'll just -totally illegal-open that tap valve for 30 sec' and see if that was 'good enough'.


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## igbomb

*Correction*

Correction: when the freon was recharged, the tech measured the pressure in the lines (I want to say it was 4 psi, is that the right range), and he filled it to (14 psi?).

The same company was called today, and the did not give the same explanation: they said either the compressor line needs new insulation, or it is low on freon.

I'm going to start calling other fix-it guys.


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## hardwareman

igbomb said:


> Correction: when the freon was recharged, the tech measured the pressure in the lines (I want to say it was 4 psi, is that the right range), and he filled it to (14 psi?).
> 
> The same company was called today, and the did not give the same explanation: they said either the compressor line needs new insulation, or it is low on freon.


 funny since the compressor lines are never insulated anyway. If it was low on refrigerant it would not frost over, just the opposite would happen it would be warm to the touch.
If a tech is recharging a system and just going by pressure, he had better be prepared to spend a long long time at your home.
So now if a new company comes out and repairs the system PROPERLY, you will be looking at several hundreds of dollars.


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## igbomb

How is refrigerant measured if not by pressure?

Would the $$$ be for a new compressor? Or just sucking out the refrigerant? If it is really going to cost hundreds then we might just throw in a few more hundred and buy a new fridge...
Don't worry! We're not going to expel the freon ourselves or do anything with the compressor. 
But we also don't want to live with watching for puddles.

It's too bad no one on the phone will tell us the things we've learned here. I understand their liability worry, but they want the $45 visitation charge before they will tell us any sort of answer (several different repair companies would not give any answers). It definitely makes more sense that it was overcharged, rather than missing some insulation that it never needed before.


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## Jacques

Yeah, most guys spend years learning and continuing to learn this trade. many hrs and much money involved [home study-days off to attend training, etc]. so other than cursory info, why give away that which it took you so long to acquire-can't blame them!...on residential refrig's they're criticaly charged [use very little R] so it has to be exacto-mondo. using just press' to charge won't cut it.


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## corrinla

the most likely cause of the suction line frosting all the way back to the compressor is an over charge of refrigerant.


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## Master of Cold

The cause of a suction line frosting is that the saturated temperature of the refrigerant is below 32 f degrees. The evaporator coil could have an ice build-up, from not defrosting properly. Or the unit is low on charge. Frosting is a sign that the evaporator pressure is low enough to flash the liquid off, but not enough air flow to let the refrigerant absorb the heat in the freezer.
If the system was overcharged enough to make the suction line start freezing, the compressor would of been dead by now.


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## hardwareman

wrong again


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## wildwoodautoshop

its low in freon. add till the frost melts (pressure around 35 plus or minus depending on air temp


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