# Help !! drywall over new eggshell paint



## Anti-wingnut (Oct 18, 2009)

More drywall mud


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

If I was trying to fix that, I think I would sand the ridges down an scuff sand all of it, then apply an oil base primer, or a good sealing water base like 123. It's easier to fill small indentures with mud than to blend high spots.

If you don't want to do all that, just scuff sand and clean.


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## curtd (Oct 25, 2013)

Your contractor is probaly very good doing new installations and/or putting up new sheetrock in a gut job. As far as repairing, i.e. doing patch up jobs he/she may be no good at that. Doing patch up work can be very challenging because of the blending issue (beenthere). Use compound over the whole area, then sand, feather edge and repaint


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

You don't need to wait a month just skim coat the area. Use topping if you can get it, if not use the ultra light with the ugly green lid. Both are easy to work and really easy to sand. Then re-prime and re-paint the area.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ToolSeeker is right, but for that same reason I'm not totally sure that easiest sanding is best. The reason is that the new, lightweight compound will sand much easier than the painted over ridges right next to it. If the new stuff sands too easily, you can get a bit if a depression where the new stuff is. Not that it will make much difference probably....

By the way, most reno contractors don't personally do the drywall repairs. And the don't always use the same person to do them either. So the job done depends quite a bit on the individual who was actually doing the work that day.


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## Jb1234 (Aug 18, 2012)

Any way to post pictures just so we can see how it looks? I say a few options, unless you believe the contractor truly does bad work and wasn't just having an off day, then get him back in to correct it for free. You now learned the valuable lesson of thoroughly inspect work done before final payment. To me this sounds like it could be a DIY repair and use the suggestions above. Key is light sanding with a finer grit sponge and constantly assess the progress so you don't go too far. How many days was the contractor there? Is it possible he just rushed the work since between mud, primer and paint there is all a decent amount of dry times involved. I have a feeling he didn't want to come back for a few hours every day for 4-5 days and rushed it, but just my opinion.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

When you skim it get a drywall knife that will let the new compound go out farther than the ridge. This is going to take a very thin application of compound.


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## rover149 (May 11, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestions.

I did check the work before he painted and pointed out the problems.
He agreed and "fixed" the issues we pointed out.

Before we could get back to check what he had done he had painted the wall.
He has offered to redo the work.
However I am still going to look for someone else.

I found out that he has no trades training or construction/renovation background.
His history is spotted and he started his business after leaving his job as a shipper for a number of years.

Not sure where he got his references but they were really complimentary of his work.

Here are some pictures of the problem area.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Very noticeable. He sure didn't feather that patched area out far enough to blend it in with the wall. And he sure struggled with the corner/corner bead. The shiny paint doesn't help matters, but, it does need redone.


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## Jb1234 (Aug 18, 2012)

Yup, good call with looking to hire someone else. Sucks you got lied too, but smart to not let him keep botching it up.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

if it was my house i'd rip out that section of drywall and be careful not to damage the corner beads and replace the piece. its going to be extremely tough to skim that and make the corners look right after his build up of mud and then the new repair layer of mud. theres nowhere to properly feather it.
also jmayspaint is bang on with priming the surface. You prime because the topping mud wont stick to the eggshell nicely and you'll get bubbles in the mud.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

princelake said:


> if it was my house i'd rip out that section of drywall and be careful not to damage the corner beads and replace the piece. its going to be extremely tough to skim that and make the corners look right after his build up of mud and then the new repair layer of mud. theres nowhere to properly feather it.
> also jmayspaint is bang on with priming the surface. You prime because the topping mud wont stick to the eggshell nicely and you'll get bubbles in the mud.


Not hardly if it's dry.


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