# insulation tape



## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I think you use the same kind of tape they use on Tyvek house wrap.


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## roadhouse (Jun 30, 2009)

i used 3/8" fanfold on my house and the tape was kinda like a thicker from of the clear looking packing tape, is that what your refering to? i was told at hd to use duck tape and, not to nock em' but i dont usally trust anthing they tell me.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I know what kind of tape you're talking about roadhouse. It's different than the Tyvek tape, but it seems like it would work really well too. I bought a roll of it last weekend and I think it was in the area at Lowe's where they sell stuff to weatherproof a house. It was a little over $8 a roll.

I guess the best thing to do is get a rough estimate of how many feet of it you'll need and see which kind is the least expensive. 

I think I'd still lean toward the tape they use for Tyvek. Only because when it's used outside it holds up through hot and cold weather year after year. 

If you're in Canada, I think it's called 'Tuck Tape'. Whether or not that's the brand name, I'm not sure.


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## RDS (Feb 29, 2008)

gma2rjc said:


> If you're in Canada, I think it's called 'Tuck Tape'. Whether or not that's the brand name, I'm not sure.


Yes, that's the brand name, made by Canadian Technical Tape Ltd. Red stuff. Whenever I'm planning an insulation project, I get my Dad to mail me some from Canada. Pleasant to work with because it smells like cranberries.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

When I needed some of that tape last year, I went to Lowe's and asked for it. The two employees I asked looked at me like I was asking what aisle I could find rocket fuel in. Then I explained what I needed it for and they showed me the tape for the Tyvek.

I wish I could get someone to send me some Roxul insulation from Canada. I want to use it when I insulate my basement. O course, it would cost a few dollars more to send the insulation than it does to ship rolls of tape, lol. Maybe more than the cost of the insulation itself.


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## roadhouse (Jun 30, 2009)

huh, canada "eh" lol. i live in northern ny, all of 5 minutes from the canadian border. looks like ill be heading over to get some tuck tape and maybe a poutin.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Well there you go! 

I live about 2.5 to 3 hours from Windsor. One of these days, if I ever remember to get a passport, I'd like to head over there for the insulation. 

Poutin? I think I like ketchup better. lol


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## roadhouse (Jun 30, 2009)

well, i just called and they have it in stock for three dollars and some change a roll. thanks for the info. i guess its time to get to work!


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

That's a great price. Much less than what I paid here.

Good luck with your project.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

*Should the joints be taped?*
Johns Manville does not recommend nor require that the joints be taped. Vapor retarders
are area weighted. The small gaps would not allow a significant amount of water vapor
through the wall, ceiling or floor. From: http://www.insulating-products.com/pdfs/Installation_FAQ.pdf
Be safe, Gary


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

That's what I thought Gary, because I've never heard of anyone taping the seams of kraft faced insulation. 

But, why is it that if you are using a 6 mil vapor barrier with un-faced insulation, every seam and pinhole have to be taped. It even has to be sealed where the poly meets the floor.

I saw on the Holmes on Homes show that one pin hole or nail hole in the poly will allow the equivalent of 1 cup of water to get into the insulation in one season.

Maybe the kraft paper allows the moisture to get into the insulation, but also lets it escape?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

To get started, “not stapling tabs”: http://www.certainteed.com/addition...75_-_Stapling_Methods_and_Vapor_Retarders.pdf

A vapor barrier or a vapor retarder: http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/insulation_airsealing/index.cfm/mytopic=11810

A good read: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/staff/papers/143.pdf


Location, location, location: http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/staff/papers/143.pdf

Be safe, Gary


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## roadhouse (Jun 30, 2009)

well see if you can figure this out. i have two metolbestos chimneys side by side, one 8" for wood furnace and one 6" for an oil furnace.(they are properly spaced apart and the right height). when im heating with either one, im getting a down draft from the other one. to me this means the air is being sucked down because air is being lost out of the house. an dfrom the tests i performed, i think the air is being lost out the ceiling( right now its not finished, just kraft faced r38) becase when i open windows in the basement where the furnaces are, the down draft in the unused chimney gets "less". but if i open a window in the upsairs it gets worse. and also if i completly seal the door zto the basement the down draft gets "less"(sorry about the termanology). the rest of the house is sealed pretty tight. the order of constructio is vinyl siding,3/8 " fanfold(taped) 7/16 osb, fraft faced r21 and sheetrock on the walls that is primed and two cotas of paint. is there something i missing thasts a better solution? i absolutly would like some opinions (i wont take it as criticism), thanks, john


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## roadhouse (Jun 30, 2009)

oh, and asfor the unfinished ceiling, that shouldnt matter because sheetrock is a rating of 50 perm, right?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Sounds like the air supply to each should be separate. If in same room, they may need an outside air source. Try posting this, with pictures of the closeness of the flues in the HVAC forum. 

"oh, and asfor the unfinished ceiling, that shouldnt matter because sheetrock is a rating of 50 perm, right?" ---- yes, for permeability rating. It doesn't really have to do with lack of air to the appliances, does it? Sorry I can't help you more, John.
Be safe, Gary


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## roadhouse (Jun 30, 2009)

so you dont think it has anything to do with my sealing insulation upstairs? to be honest with you i really dont feal lioke taping al the seems! because technicly if i seal off my mechanical room the down draft prob should go away. i just thaught this was the wrong solution. to be honest with you i dont really know the "brearhability" of a house is supposed to work. thanks for the input.
also is there anyway i can transfer my last post to hvac withouthaving to retype it all, thats a lot of typing for me!


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I tried to inform them..... but I don't know exactly how. 

MODERATORS........................................... read previous post. 

Here is my County's HVAC on ducts, air supply and such: http://www.mybuildingpermit.com/Inspection Checklists/03IRCMBPMechanical rough in checklist.pdf To give you an idea.

Be safe, Gary


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