# Garage Outlet - Drywall Hole Too Large and Gang Box Recessed



## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

The blue electrical box should be attached to the framing.
The drywall is not designed to have the blue box attached to it.
They do make a box that can be secured to the drywall but I would NOT recommend their use.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Is the box loose enough to pull right out of the wall?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would be seeing how far away the box is from a frame member.

Make sure the power is off, use a wire probe and probe to each side of that box to find a stud.

Pick whichever side is close enough to add a short 2X4 spacer to, this give you something to mount the box to. 

You might need to remove the box to gain room to screw the spacer inside, but easy to do. then re install the box and mount it properly, and rewire the outlet. 

And an oversize cover plate to cover the drywall gap.


ED


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## IceBoy109 (Mar 19, 2017)

The blue box is attached to a stud on its right but is not loose enough to just pull off. I suppose i thought it would be easier to add some mud/spackle/filler around the gang box than it would be to cut out more drywall in order to re-mount it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

IceBoy109 said:


> The blue box is attached to a stud on its right but is not loose enough to just pull off. I suppose i thought it would be easier to add some mud/spackle/filler around the gang box than it would be to cut out more drywall in order to re-mount it.


 Pull the outlet and see if the screws are inside the box


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> Pull the outlet and see if the screws are inside the box


It is a single, not a gang.

The screws for the outlet are missing, so just slip the outlet out, peer inside to see if the mounting screws are there, also see if the box is flush with the drywall, if not move it outboard , then reinstall the outlet with mounting screws, add an oversized cover plate, and forget the mud.


ED


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

I'd cut out the box. If screws or nails are holding it to the studs, saw through them if they're not accessible any other way. Then you can screw the new box directly to the stud from inside the box. Set it so it's flush with the drywall. Add mud if you want (or if it's an outside wall in a cold climate) but an over-sized face plate will also cover up a lot of sins.

Edit: The plastic boxes are pretty easy to demolish. If nailed on the outside of the box, you may be able to pry the nails out without cutting; just jam a screwdriver or wedge in between the box and stud.

All this assumes there IS something still holding the box on to the stud. If not, even easier.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Just a hacksaw blade can be used to cut nails above and below the hole with out any further damage to drywall, I would just change it out to an Old Work Box.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

I’d use either a single gang Madison Smart box or an Arlington F101 to replace it. Screws to the stud from inside the box.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Madison-Electric-Products-Smart-Box-1-Gang-Adjustable-Depth-Device-Box-MSB1G/203340257


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

Oso954 said:


> I’d use either a single gang Madison Smart box or an Arlington F101 to replace it. Screws to the stud from inside the box.
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Madison-Electric-Products-Smart-Box-1-Gang-Adjustable-Depth-Device-Box-MSB1G/203340257


Cool! Didn't know those existed. I've probably violated some code by just screwing through the wall of a "regular" new work box and into the stud. I promise I won't do that again. :notworthy:


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