# Kenmore 400 dryer



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need a full model number.


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## Jay2013 (Jun 15, 2013)

The model number is 11069422800. It's a Kenmore Elite 400.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Could be any # of things. Kenmore used to be a quality name brand, but, like most others now, I'm sure it's made in China or the parts come from China. Believe it or not, your dryer is just about at the end of its life cycle. Five years is about what you get out of your appliances. It may be something as simple as a loose wire or a wire that had the insulation burned off of it and it's shorting out. It may be the heating element starting to go bad. Those are easy to replace and the parts are usually readily available. I know I have had Kenmore, Whirlpool, and several other brands in the recent past and they all lasted about 5 years before giving up the ghost.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Gymschu, depending on which Kenmore line, they are mostly Maytag appliances. The elite line is still made here in the U.S., by the company they use for that line.

Maytag are made mostly in Mexico.

As for the OP problem, most likely have had Brownout issues, or surges, which can cause these kind of issues, along with Neutral issues to the appliance or home, even if you are really not noticing, the electrical problems are still there.

Also how much they ise it, if te vent has been regularly cleaned out, overloading the machine cannplace undue wear & tear on the machine.

At this point, it is going to cost more to fix, then find a mom & pop shop that fixes and resell units, or just bite the bullet and get a Heavy Duty unit.

Stay away from HH Gregg or Best Buy Op. Lowe's, Home Depot you can usually find a decent deal on a scratch & dent, & usually can get the manager to come down even more, if you are regulars in there, or they just want to get it out of there.


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## Jay2013 (Jun 15, 2013)

It works ok now, but the heat is still not at full throttle. I use the dryer at most 3 hours a week, which I feel is not that much. How do you check for continuity on the items that are designed to produce heat?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Pull the dryer and check for Lint clog in the line. That is most likely why it is not drying as it should.

If you are getting heat, then the heating circuit is working.

Also take the back off the unit while you are at it, and clean out te large quantity of Lint in the dryer also.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Jay, the dryer you have is made by Whirlpool. There should be a wiring schematic somewhere in the back of the dryer. It's probably behind the access for the control panel. I can't help with the continuity tests but the schematic should help. Since tapping the timer made it work, I'd speculate the timer needs to be replaced.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Jay, check Repairclinic.com for pricing, but also check with the local mom & pop shop to see what their prices are on replacement parts.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

djlandkpl said:


> Jay, the dryer you have is made by Whirlpool. There should be a wiring schematic somewhere in the back of the dryer. It's probably behind the access for the control panel. I can't help with the continuity tests but the schematic should help. Since tapping the timer made it work, I'd speculate the timer needs to be replaced.


I was at work earlier when I posted. Could not remember Whirlpool for the other. Sears was odd and always has been on the different grades of tools and appliances who they use, which makes it fun to try and tell people which model to get, so they do not go with the cheaper line.


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## chitownken (Nov 22, 2012)

If the model number starts with 110. it is a Whirlpool


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## Jay2013 (Jun 15, 2013)

I removed the back of the dryer and discovered that one of the 4 heating element coils broke off and was resting at the bottom of the dryer. Do all coils need to work for the heater to produce heat??


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Jay2013 said:


> I removed the back of the dryer and discovered that one of the 4 heating element coils broke off and was resting at the bottom of the dryer. Do all coils need to work for the heater to produce heat??


Why yes they do by George. You are placing more resistance on the one that is doing all of the work. Check with a local mom & pop like I stated before, and check the pricing at http://www.repairclinic.com. I have had good luck with everything that I have ordered from them, and even when the wife wanted the dishwasher handle fixed by two days, they had the order pulled that same evening, and on the plane to us, and in our hands next day. Of course the order was done by 5:30 pm.


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## Jay2013 (Jun 15, 2013)

I checked for continuity at several different points and noticed that one of the points didn't pass the test. I'm not sure what this item is called (perhaps the cycling thermostat?), but in the below picture, it's the black item in the far left, with four wires (purple on the sides, and red on the top) connected to it. The two purple wires in the middle failed the test, while the wires on the top and bottom passed. What is this item called? Could this be the cause for the dryer not turning off once it nears the end of the cycle?


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

I think it is the cycling thermostat. This is the part and there's a video on how to test it. 

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDet...?modelNumber=110.69422800&fromRepairHelp=True


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## Jay2013 (Jun 15, 2013)

One last question re: parts. Are all parts created equal? Meaning, does it matter where I buy the part? Sears and a few local mom and pop shops have the same part in stock, but their prices vary from 45-65 bucks, with Sears being at the top of the range. Ebay has the part for about 25 bucks.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Sears = overpriced, same as some of te other places you will find. All the parts are the same, you may find tem cheaper on Amazon than repairclinc, but double check to make sure it is exact, if you purchase through amazon.com.


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## djlandkpl (Jan 29, 2013)

Jay2013 said:


> One last question re: parts. Are all parts created equal? Meaning, does it matter where I buy the part? Sears and a few local mom and pop shops have the same part in stock, but their prices vary from 45-65 bucks, with Sears being at the top of the range. Ebay has the part for about 25 bucks.


I would be cautious with ebay on electrical parts. Otherwise, I typically go with the best price and who can get it to me the fastest.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Unnecessary posts removed.


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## Jay2013 (Jun 15, 2013)

Thanks all for the advice. I ended up buying a heating element part from a local part store. I just finished installing it and the dryer is working great. Now back to the bathroom remodel. Thanks again all!


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