# How should I straighten these gate posts?



## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

The weight of the gate pulled the post. That's why it scrapes the concrete. Is there a diagonal tension cable on the gate? I presume that there is none & that there are no wheels either.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Thanks for the response. Not sure about the gate-weight being the issue. It's not that heavy, and the posts aren't bent, nor is the concrete damaged. Also, the posts are seriously solid. I'd almost say they went crooked during set. But, as you say, no cable and no wheels. I'll put wheels on after the fix.

Any ideas better than the one I mentioned as far as straightening the posts?


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

Maybe not the "right way" to do it by I straightened many a fence post with a tow strap with gentle pressure until it is plumb.

If you can't get a vehicle in the space, a winch will do.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I think the problem is the concrete was not big enough or in soil that was not good enough or both. I like you idea of pulling it back with a turnbuckle. But you would want to give the concrete room to move by digging out under the fence to have space. Then once you have it moved dig out on the driveway side and add another lump of concrete to hold it there.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

ZTMAN said:


> Maybe not the "right way" to do it by I straightened many a fence post with a tow strap with gentle pressure until it is plumb.
> 
> If you can't get a vehicle in the space, a winch will do.


Not a bad idea for front to back. Definitely has potential. In this case, I'd probably need to use a chain, since I have to bend the steel post.

That wouldn't work, however, for bending the right-side post to the left to obtain level.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Nealtw said:


> I think the problem is the concrete was not big enough or in soil that was not good enough or both. I like you idea of pulling it back with a turnbuckle. But you would want to give the concrete room to move by digging out under the fence to have space. Then once you have it moved dig out on the driveway side and add another lump of concrete to hold it there.


The posts are set in a driveway slab. The posts themselves are straight, but lean out of level. They will have to be bent.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bob... said:


> The posts are set in a driveway slab. The posts themselves are straight, but lean out of level. They will have to be bent.


 A little cutting and welding to the hinges might be easier.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Nealtw said:


> A little cutting and welding to the hinges might be easier.


Good idea. I may have to resort to that, but I might get in over my head. This setup is approx 30 yrs old <>. I do _some_ welding, but I'm not a pro. I'm hoping to bend the post a half inch or so to avoid the potential problems of having to rebuild the hinges and re-hang the gate.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bob... said:


> Good idea. I may have to resort to that, but I might get in over my head. This setup is approx 30 yrs old <>. I do _some_ welding, but I'm not a pro. I'm hoping to bend the post a half inch or so to avoid the potential problems of having to rebuild the hinges and re-hang the gate.


 In order to bend it you have to bend both pipes and the weld of the top and bottom rails.
Or cut the bottom hinge loose prop the gate level and plumb re-build the hinge attachment to fit the new gate location.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Nealtw said:


> In order to bend it you have to bend both pipes and the weld of the top and bottom rails.
> Or cut the bottom hinge loose prop the gate level and plumb re-build the hinge attachment to fit the new gate location.


I was thinking I could cut the top cross brace from the right-side post (denoted with short red arrow in photo), cut it (cross brace) a bit shorter, bend the post in & weld it back to the shortened cross brace. 

My real question was how best to bend it. I supposed that some kind of clamp might bend the post inward to put it level, using the left-side post for the clamp "hold". I'm just not sure which clamp to use, or if a clamp is the best way to bend. Any ideas about that?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bob... said:


> I was thinking I could cut the top cross brace from the right-side post (denoted with short red arrow in photo), cut it (cross brace) a bit shorter, bend the post in & weld it back to the shortened cross brace.
> 
> My real question was how best to bend it. I supposed that some kind of clamp might bend the post inward to put it level, using the left-side post for the clamp "hold". I'm just not sure which clamp to use, or if a clamp is the best way to bend. Any ideas about that?


Yeah if you cut that and pull it back would work I would work with a chain and turnbuckle from the post to be bent to the next post base 8 or 10 ft away.
Heat the pipe at the base where you want to bend it. You would need a torch. It might bed with out the heat but I would like to control the bend too.

3/8 chain and the right sized clevis and a turnbuckle
https://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches...I84bjBnp04bQAXlMZci1mNwDk32L1tIUaAtzrEALw_wcB


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Nealtw said:


> Yeah if you cut that and pull it back would work I would work with a chain and turnbuckle from the post to be bent to the *next post base 8 or 10 ft away.*
> Heat the pipe at the base where you want to bend it. You would need a torch. It might bed with out the heat but I would like to control the bend too.
> 
> 3/8 chain and the right sized clevis and a turnbuckle
> https://www.4wheelparts.com/Winches...I84bjBnp04bQAXlMZci1mNwDk32L1tIUaAtzrEALw_wcB


The chain & turnbuckle is a good idea, but the next post is what you see in the photo - about 8" away. Beyond that (in the direction the bend needs to go) is the neighbor's property.

And, at the risk of sounding like I'm shooting down every idea that comes down the pike, wouldn't heating the bend point with a torch result in annealing?

I _do_ appreciate all the suggestions.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

If it was in a dirt hole. I would drive some long tapered wedges along side the pipe and that should straighten things up.

Try it and let us know if it does any good.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Bob... said:


> The chain & turnbuckle is a good idea, but the next post is what you see in the photo - about 8" away. Beyond that (in the direction the bend needs to go) is the neighbor's property.
> 
> And, at the risk of sounding like I'm shooting down every idea that comes down the pike, wouldn't heating the bend point with a torch result in annealing?
> 
> I _do_ appreciate all the suggestions.


I only know enough about steel to be dangerous. Annealing I believe would require being kept orange for more than ten minutes and the longer the better. 
So if you put tension on it and it will not bend and then you heat it, it should bend and you would stop the heat asap. 
But if you can't pull on it you would be doing it much by hand.
Filling it with concrete after would help it hold it's shape.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

IMO, the post didn't bend, it tilted so you don't want to bend the post into position, you want to tilt it. That means, you want to tilt it from the bottom & reinforce it. Rent a jack hammer, disconnect the gate, reset the post in new concrete below the frost line if one exixts, let it set for at least a few days & reconnect the gate.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Guap0_ said:


> IMO, the post didn't bend, it tilted so you don't want to bend the post into position, you want to tilt it. That means, you want to tilt it from the bottom & reinforce it. Rent a jack hammer, disconnect the gate, reset the post in new concrete below the frost line if one exixts, let it set for at least a few days & reconnect the gate.


You're correct in that they were set tilted. In fact, the ornamental insert was an inch or so wider at the top...I assume to accommodate the tilted posts. 

I appreciate all the comments and suggestions - thanks to all!

Here's how I resolved the issue:

As seen in the photos:

1. I removed the top ornament 
2. Drilled a 1/2" hole through the steel pipe and steel square tubing
3. Inserted a length of threaded rod, washers & bolts at each end.
4. Cut about 1 1/4" out of the center of the cross brace
5. Tightened the bolts on the threaded rod to pull the right-side post inward.

I'm not finished yet, but I'll clean up the cross brace and weld 2 short lengths of appropriately sized angle iron onto the square tubing to join & strengthen the cut. Then I'll take the paint off of the entire gate and repaint it all, including the threaded rod, which I'll leave in place. I'll also place wheels on the bottom of the gates. Should last several years this way.

The photos:


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

And, the gate swings shut clean and level, no scraping and latches without problem. Yeah!


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Now add wheels or tension cables so it doesn't tilt again.


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## Bob... (Jan 29, 2013)

Guap0_ said:


> Now add wheels or tension cables so it doesn't tilt again.


10-4 on the wheels. But honestly, the posts were tilted when the concrete was poured. Whoever did the iron work made the square tubing frame/ornamental insert compensated by making the top longer than the bottom. An oversight on someone's part that was just ignored, for some reason. Not sure if the gates ever closed properly.

Again, thanks to all.


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