# Log home drywall question



## mikew (Sep 10, 2007)

Hello all, first post here! I am remodeling the bathroom in our log home. Round log beams are exposed on the ceilings. Old wall was paneling, we want drywall. The drywall transition to the beams is a challenge. My initial thought is to run the drywall to a few inches below the beams, then cut and scribe pieces to fit each log. I will have to split a piece on each log to get it around the whole thing with no gaps. Anyone have any other ideas for something that won't be as labor intensive but will still look good? Thanks!


----------



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

No other option but the labor-intensive one you are describing.

Have fun.... .....:wink:


----------



## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

mikew said:


> Anyone have any other ideas for something that won't be as labor intensive but will still look good?


Nope! :biggrin:


----------



## mikew (Sep 10, 2007)

The hard way always seems to be the right way...but ya never know! :laughing:


----------



## timtreva (Sep 13, 2007)

You might save yourself a lot of sweat if you run the sheet rock up to a distance close to the logs as you plan and then sculpt a piece of foam backer board to fit the space. Yeah, you're going to have to scribe it in, but it's a lot more maleable than dry wall, so it's easier to get a tight fit. It's available in varying thicknesses and doesn't cost much.


----------



## mikew (Sep 10, 2007)

That is a very interesting idea. I'm not sure what kind of foam backer board you're meaning -- is it a thin insulation type foam board? I guess I've never noticed that product, but if it is like the insulation stuff (the blue board I have used) it would be much easier to work than the drywall. Will it take mud and then paint as the drywall?


----------



## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

mikew said:


> ....Will it take mud and then paint as the drywall?


No, it won't. You may be able to get the compound on the product, but it will not stick appropriately, nor will it stay intact. It would crack and fall off.

We have done many jobs similar to to what you are describing, in terms of scribing up to an irregular edge. 
(IMHO: I think the "Foam Board" is a bad idea for what you want to achieve)

If you want to make your life easier when doing the contoured sheet-rock cuts in the boards, do this:

Scribing:
Draw your tracing (or scribing) with a pencil of that specific "shape" that you are trying to get the sheet to go against. Review and check your lines.

Cutting:
Then take your utility knife and score that same drawn line.
Last, take a drywall router and cut the line out, going left to right.

No fuss, no effort: clean, simple, smooth.....and FAST....

(The above is how the pros do it)

NEXT:

Preparation: Prior to doing your compound coating phase, you should masking tape/plastic off everthing on the logs that are against the drywall, since you want that compound up close to it. 

Compound Coating Work:
You may find it easier to apply the following "mudding" tip for hard to reach areas. After applying any mesh or paper tape to the areas against your contoured edges, coat using smaller sized knives as best you can. When dry, go back and scrape down any ridges that were left. If there are still some "rough" areas, sand them down. Then get a good quality set of paint brushes and mix up the compound to a "yogurt" like consistency. 
Use the paint brushes to apply a nice smooth coat of compound over those areas that are closest to the logs. When dry, sand that work smooth using a small drywall sanding sponge.

After completing the drywall phase of your project, remove the maskign tape and any plastic. Use an appropriate latex based caulking to seal up any smaller crevices or areas still left (next to the logs).


----------



## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> .


:thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## mikew (Sep 10, 2007)

Thank you. That is how I had envisioned doing it -- was of course hoping I had missed some easy way out. My plan is to make a cardboard template of the logs (they are all hand hewn and of course different), transfer that line to the drywall, and then cut out. The original design when we bought the place (which my wife absolutely hated, but I thought was clever) was to use 1 inch manila rope as molding nailed up to cover the seam between paneling, drywall, and logs. The house decoration theme was "cowboy/hunting lodge" so it actually fit fairly well, and 1" molding hides a lot of gaps!


----------

