# Drywalling around window and drywall rip questions



## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

Hi all, i am new to this site and i have a few questions

I need to know how to drywall around this window, there are about 3" - 4" from the closest stud to the window frame. will i need backing to screw the drywall closer to the window frame or is 3"-4" close enough??

The other issue i am having is with the wall which is 8' 2'' tall. where should i put the 2" rip, in the middle or at the bottom? i am leaning towards having the rip in the middle but would like to know about mudding it since there will tapered and non tapered edges seaming..

thanks in advance for your help.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Do you have a picture? Why can't you add another stud?


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

I don't understand why your nearest stud is so far away. What are you going to nail your trim to?
You kind of need to get something in there closer if you can.
Yes, put the rip in the center and don't worry about the tapered edge butting a non-tapered edge.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

having trouble with the pictures, they are too large...will re-size and post


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

*pics*

ok here they are..


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

titanoman said:


> I don't understand why your nearest stud is so far away. What are you going to nail your trim to?
> You kind of need to get something in there closer if you can.
> Yes, put the rip in the center and don't worry about the tapered edge butting a non-tapered edge.


the board will not lay on top of the window frame but flush on the side


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Slap another stud in the cavity on each side of the window. Spray foam in there while you're at it. Seems simple unless I can't see something in the pics that is really there.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Also, it looks like the wall is built entirely wrong around the window. King studs, jack studs, etc, but I'm not an expert on framing.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Yes. Actually, all that framing should be ripped out and re-done completely.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

thanks mike, the house was built in the 1930's, i removed the plaster to replace with drywall and shimmed the wall to even it out and make the board flush with the window jambs.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

kid tech said:


> the board will not lay on top of the window frame but flush on the side


Now that I see the pictures...
Who built this wall?
What's holding the window in?
That wall is horrible. It needs a header. It needs to be framed the right size for that window.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

titanoman said:


> Now that I see the pictures...
> Who built this wall?
> What's holding the window in?
> That wall is horrible. It needs a header. It needs to be framed the right size for that window.


it is not a new wall since it was built in the 1930's. those shiny new studs you see there are just shims the old studs is behind...the window itself has a 1 x frame all around


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

titanoman said:


> Yes. Actually, all that framing should be ripped out and re-done completely.


oh my, does that mean taking the window out???


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Leave the 2" at the bottom of the drywall you what that horizontal seam tight. The 2" at the bottom will be covered with base trim.

Looks like that window is a replacement set in the existing framing and the wall is built on to the existing wall, so the header is already there.....right? In which case you will be fine, but you do have to think about how you are going to connect the window casings, if there is nothing to nail to how will you hang the trim?

Mark


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> Now that I see the pictures...
> Who built this wall?
> What's holding the window in?
> That wall is horrible. It needs a header. It needs to be framed the right size for that window.


Maybe you should ask some questions first and then make suggestions based on the answers, instead of blasting blindly. Just a suggestion.

Mark


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

Jackofall1 said:


> Leave the 2" at the bottom of the drywall you what that horizontal seam tight. The 2" at the bottom will be covered with base trim.
> 
> Looks like that window is a replacement set in the existing framing and the wall is built on to the existing wall, so the header is already there.....right? In which case you will be fine, but you do have to think about how you are going to connect the window casings, if there is nothing to nail to how will you hang the trim?
> 
> Mark


u mean do the 2" at the bottom and not mud it? if i have to mud it then i will just mud once in the middle.
about the window, yes it was a replacement, i just moved into this house they said windows were replaced a few years back...i was thinking about nailing the window casings to the existing 1 x frame of the window if this is even possible


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Jackofall1 said:


> Maybe you should ask some questions first and then make suggestions based on the answers, instead of blasting blindly. Just a suggestion.
> 
> Mark


I'm sorry. I didn't know I was blasting. You didn't give me time to get back to the gentleman.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> *I don't understand why your nearest stud is so far away*.
> 
> I would bet they are that far because this is a window which replaced an old counterbalanced window.
> 
> ...




You want the horizontal seam (the one you have to mud) tight, leave the gap at the bottom where it will be covered by base trim.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

kid tech said:


> u mean do the 2" at the bottom and not mud it? if i have to mud it then i will just mud once in the middle.
> about the window, yes it was a replacement, i just moved into this house they said windows were replaced a few years back...i was thinking about nailing the window casings to the existing 1 x frame of the window if this is even possible


I'de put it in the middle. The base isn't going to cover the bevel on the bottom sheetrock if it's up 2" and you are making the taper bend over for no reason.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

kid tech said:


> u mean do the 2" at the bottom and not mud it? if i have to mud it then i will just mud once in the middle.
> about the window, yes it was a replacement, i just moved into this house they said windows were replaced a few years back...i was thinking about nailing the window casings to the existing 1 x frame of the window if this is even possible


To finish the Drywall you will have to mud the horizontal seam, to leave the tapered edges on the sheet and butt the top and bottom pieces together in the middle, the bottom will be covered by the baseboard trim.

You usually want something to nail to around the outside of the window casing (moulding), so add either a full length 2x4 around the opening (tied to the existing wall) flush to the finished inside, this way you will have a nailing surface around the parimeter of the opening.

You should insulate around the window frame as well, either with pink or foam, if with foam be careful as it expands.

Mark


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Jackofall1 said:


> To finish the Drywall you will have to mud the horizontal seam, to leave the tapered edges on the sheet and butt the top and bottom pieces together in the middle, the bottom will be covered by the baseboard trim.
> 
> You usually want something to nail to around the outside of the window casing (moulding), so add either a full length 2x4 around the opening (tied to the existing wall) flush to the finished inside, this way you will have a nailing surface around the parimeter of the opening.
> 
> ...


Why do you keep repeating yourself when the op already conceded with me that base won't cover unless he's using 6"?
As a matter of fact, it's all been covered. The op knows what they need to do.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> I'de put it in the middle. The base isn't going to cover the bevel on the bottom sheetrock if it's up 2" and you are making the taper bend over for no reason.


Come-on you can't be serious, leave a gap of 2" in the middle of the wall? How you going to finish that with a cement truck and a trowel?

Even cheap baseboard is 3-1/4" inch profile, last time I looked at a tape measure 3" will cover 2" rather easily and if you want to cover the entire bevelled edge use 4" baseboard.

Mark


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

You want the horizontal seam (the one you have to mud) tight, leave the gap at the bottom where it will be covered by base trim.[/quote]

u mean leave a 2" gap at the bottom and cover it with the baseboard? then i will have to put a really wide base trim to cover the 2" gap and the ~3" of the drywall tapered edge...i want a trim no wider that 3.5"


thanks


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Jackofall1 said:


> Come-on you can't be serious, leave a gap of 2" in the middle of the wall? How you going to finish that with a cement truck and a trowel?
> 
> Even cheap baseboard is 3-1/4" inch profile, last time I looked at a tape measure 3" will cover 2" rather easily and if you want to cover the entire bevelled edge use 4" baseboard.
> 
> Mark


Not a gap. A 2" rip. That's what the op said in the first post.
You're being difficult and silly for no reason.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> Why do you keep repeating yourself when the op already conceded with me that base won't cover unless he's using 6"?
> As a matter of fact, it's all been covered. The op knows what they need to do.


Ceiling height 8'-2" is that to raw ceiling joist or finished ceiling?

2 x 4" DW sheet = 8' leaving a 2" gap at the bottom.

Baseboard usually is mounted about 1/2" from sub floor to allow for carpet kick.

Leaves a 1-1/2" to cover with base.

Tapered edge of sheet is 1-1/2" 

3" will cover the gap and the taper,

I am repeating myself because you are giving the OP poor direction IMO.

The OP should not be doing anything with the DW as far as cutting the tapered edges off as there is no need to.

Mark


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> Not a gap. A 2" rip. That's what the op said in the first post.
> You're being difficult and silly for no reason.


Yes I read that but look at the pic, they are (2) taper edges and I would bet the other end of the bottom piece is sitting on the floor. I believe there is just a terminology differential here.

Mark


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Jackofall1 said:


> Ceiling height 8'-2" is that to raw ceiling joist or finished ceiling?
> 
> 2 x 4" DW sheet = 8' leaving a 2" gap at the bottom.
> 
> ...


I don't think I'm going to read any more of your posts. The op has heard all sides of the argument and can now make an informed decision.
Have at it big guy...


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

kid tech said:


> You want the horizontal seam (the one you have to mud) tight, leave the gap at the bottom where it will be covered by base trim.


u mean leave a 2" gap at the bottom and cover it with the baseboard? then i will have to put a really wide base trim to cover the 2" gap and the ~3" of the drywall tapered edge...i want a trim no wider that 3.5"


thanks[/quote]

3.5" trim will be fine, if you leave that gap in the middle you will have a heck of time finishing it! It will look like crap! and after going through the effort of leveling and insulating, I would bet you want something that looks half decent when you are finished.

Mark


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

titanoman, 

how will lay out the tape if i have the rip in the middle? do i have to used two strips or just a wider tape?


thanks


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> I don't think I'm going to read any more of your posts. The op has heard all sides of the argument and can now make an informed decision.
> Have at it big guy...


 
Really have you ever tried to finish, with drywall mud, a 2" gap? seriously? 

Mark


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

kid tech said:


> titanoman,
> 
> how will lay out the tape if i have the rip in the middle? do i have to used two strips or just a wider tape?
> 
> ...


Can't wait to here this one.......:whistling2:


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Jackofall1 said:


> u mean leave a 2" gap at the bottom and cover it with the baseboard? then i will have to put a really wide base trim to cover the 2" gap and the ~3" of the drywall tapered edge...i want a trim no wider that 3.5"
> 
> thanks


3.5" trim will be fine, if you leave that gap in the middle you will have a heck of time finishing it! It will look like crap! and after going through the effort of leveling and insulating, I would bet you want something that looks half decent when you are finished.

Mark[/QUOTE]

I just can't help but jump back in here. There's no reason it would like like crap any more than a single seam.
That's an ignorant statement.
And you're going to drive the op into having to buy a bigger baseboard.

Op: This guy doesn't seem to know a lot about drywall if you ask me. Do what you know is right.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

kid tech said:


> titanoman,
> 
> how will lay out the tape if i have the rip in the middle? do i have to used two strips or just a wider tape?
> 
> thanks


Yes. 2 runs of tape. By the time you're done with a 12" knife, it will be a beautiful thing.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

You might want to read the attached.

I am not trying to be arguementative, I have hung and finished DW DIY for many years now and I can tell you through experience, leaving a 2" gap and trying to finish that will be far more difficult than you think. 

The compound if applied to heavily will shrink and crack not to mention how much sanding you will have to do if you get the compound built up enough to cover a 2" gap.

Read this.....http://www.usg.com/rc/installation-...-gypsum-panels-installation-guide-en-J371.pdf

One of the tips in this is keep the joint tight, and avoid butt (non tapered) joints.

OK thats it, its all up to you now.

Mark


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## bareshiyth (Jan 6, 2012)

kid tech said:


> You want the horizontal seam (the one you have to mud) tight, leave the gap at the bottom where it will be covered by base trim.


u mean leave a 2" gap at the bottom and cover it with the baseboard? then i will have to put a really wide base trim to cover the 2" gap and the ~3" of the drywall tapered edge...i want a trim no wider that 3.5" thanks[/quote]

There is a trim that is nominally 4" boards ... you can get at H Depot or Lowes & probably most everywhere. It consists of 4' square rosettes for the corners, and plain or fluted board for around the window (or in door kits) that is retro in effect and, I think, cool for your older house. THAT would handle the 2" around the window. As for the adjacent wall, 2" strip will easily nail/screw to studs & finish out the drywall. Mud covers a multitude of sins, of course. Almost ALL sins!


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

bareshiyth said:


> u mean leave a 2" gap at the bottom and cover it with the baseboard? then i will have to put a really wide base trim to cover the 2" gap and the ~3" of the drywall tapered edge...i want a trim no wider that 3.5" thanks


There is a trim that is nominally 4" boards ... you can get at H Depot or Lowes & probably most everywhere. It consists of 4' square rosettes for the corners, and plain or fluted board for around the window (or in door kits) that is retro in effect and, I think, cool for your older house. THAT would handle the 2" around the window. As for the adjacent wall, 2" strip will easily nail/screw to studs & finish out the drywall. Mud covers a multitude of sins, of course. Almost ALL sins![/QUOTE]


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

titanoman said:


> There is a trim that is nominally 4" boards ... you can get at H Depot or Lowes & probably most everywhere. It consists of 4' square rosettes for the corners, and plain or fluted board for around the window (or in door kits) that is retro in effect and, I think, cool for your older house. THAT would handle the 2" around the window. As for the adjacent wall, 2" strip will easily nail/screw to studs & finish out the drywall. Mud covers a multitude of sins, of course. Almost ALL sins!


And that base won't match the rest of the house.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

titanoman said:


> There is a trim that is nominally 4" boards ... you can get at H Depot or Lowes & probably most everywhere. It consists of 4' square rosettes for the corners, and plain or fluted board for around the window (or in door kits) that is retro in effect and, I think, cool for your older house. THAT would handle the 2" around the window. As for the adjacent wall, 2" strip will easily nail/screw to studs & finish out the drywall. Mud covers a multitude of sins, of course.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

titanoman said:


> And that base won't match the rest of the house.


 
As it was never mentioned, I am wondering how in the world you would know what existing trim looks like. 

And why in the world would you create a sin that would have to be fixed with mud, its an almost virgin wall, put the drywall in correctly to begin with and the mudding is much simplier, and, I will say it again trying to fill a 2" gap (that doesn't need to be there) is just plain crazy!

Mark


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I have to agree. Filling a two inch gap is silly and the fact that it doesn't even need to be there is worse. It may look fine at first, but chances of it cracking in the future are probably very good.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

thanks all for all your help with this. it is not filling the gap entirely with mud, there will be a 2" drywall strip in there, therefore creating two seams. this picture shows exactly what i will end up with. will this be difficult to mud??


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

kid tech said:


> thanks all for all your help with this. it is not filling the gap entirely with mud, there will be a 2" drywall strip in there, therefore creating two seams. this picture shows exactly what i will end up with. will this be difficult to mud??


You can finish that, its much harder but very possible, I would personally put the 2" strip at the bottom where the finishing is mostly covered by the baseboard.

Mark


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

jack, if it was a 4 " or 5" inch situation, where would you put it?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

That won't be difficult to mud at all. The strip makes it much better than what I was picturing. Still not the best case scenario, but should work. I would just use three pieces going across horizonatally, but that's just me.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

mike, how wide would u run the pieces?


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

kid tech said:


> jack, if it was a 4 " or 5" inch situation, where would you put it?


If it was a taller ceiling, say 9' I would buy 10' long sheets and run the seam vertically or like you have asked 4-5" I would still buy the longer sheets and run them vertically.

As you have said you wanted some help on the dry wall, I have given you what I would do, I personally dislike sanding, that is why I would put the 2" filler at the bottom, but you do what you think is best. 

Like they say if you ask the same question to several people you will undoubtedly get several answers.

Mark


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## bareshiyth (Jan 6, 2012)

Jackofall1 said:


> ...why in the world would you create a sin that would have to be fixed with mud, its an almost virgin wall, put the drywall in correctly to begin with and the mudding is much simplier, and, I will say it again trying to fill a 2" gap (that doesn't need to be there) is just plain crazy!
> Mark


If that was addressed to me, I appologize for not making myself clear. I was suggesting you fill the 2 inches with drywall, and the mud can make all the piecing and seams disappear. But you could leave the gap under the window (which has little to attach the 2" strip to) open (fill with foam?) & cover with a wider trim. And suggested a readily available "retro-type" trim.
Sorry. Maintaining an Apt bldg I always look for inexpensive & fast, yet effective repair techniques. Landlords insist:icon_confused:


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## bareshiyth (Jan 6, 2012)

Jackofall1 said:


> If it was a taller ceiling, say 9' I would buy 10' long sheets and run the seam vertically or like you have asked 4-5" I would still buy the longer sheets and run them vertically.
> 
> As you have said you wanted some help on the dry wall, I have given you what I would do, I personally dislike sanding, that is why I would put the 2" filler at the bottom, but you do what you think is best.
> 
> ...


Actually, I agree with that entirely. Life seems to offer those 8'2" situations all too often, and your choices are up to you and your circumstances ($$, skills, time, the original construction, etc.) And you asked for ideas/opinions, not the ultimately "right" answer. There rarely is one:no:


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

I would run them any variation over 2 ft. So say a 2'7", 2'7", and then 3' in the center. It may make more waste, but drywall isn't that expensive and you can usually find places to use leftovers. Honestly though your way shouldn't really cause a problem. I think you'll be fine. Plus you have less seams to mud.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Another option. You can buy 54" wide drywall. Use one 48" horizontally against the ceiling, then cut what you need off of the 54" one (about 4" rip from what I read here). Gives you a nice normal factory tapered edge.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

mae-ling said:


> Another option. You can buy 54" wide drywall. Use one 48" horizontally against the ceiling, then cut what you need off of the 54" one (about 4" rip from what I read here). Gives you a nice normal factory tapered edge.


Uh...Looking at the picture, it's already hung...

Nevermind.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

titanoman said:


> Uh...Looking at the picture, it's already hung...
> 
> Nevermind.



Yeah noticed that but someone else reading this later may be able to use this info.

He did it the way all the drywallers I work with used to do it before the 54" wide sheets.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

mae-ling said:


> Yeah noticed that but someone else reading this later may be able to use this info.
> 
> He did it the way all the drywallers I work with used to do it before the 54" wide sheets.


He did it the way I suggested, because that's how I learned, and I got my butt reamed by a few people because they said I was giving bad advice, that the rip should be at the bottom, which the base wouldn't cover, making the taper have to tape way down low.
And I'm like, "what? Its just a parallel pair of seams. It's the way everybody does it".
I still have no idea what all the fuss was about.
And I didn't suggest standing them because of the wasted sheetrock, trying to save them a little money.

Nuttin' butt a thing.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

i didnt hang it yet, that is a picture i found on the web...one of a few, when i was reading about hanging DW and thats where i got the idea from. this way makes the most sense to me...i also know about the 54" boards but they wont fit through stairway nor windows. 

many thanks to all for your help.


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## jeffpalm (Apr 21, 2013)

Drywall available in 54" width as well as 48" !!!!


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