# Question, hanging drywall in the garage



## WCR (Jan 12, 2013)

Hello Everyone,

I was thinking of insulating and hanging drywall in the garage and when I look up into the rafters in each of the 4 corners of the garage there is a diagonal beam that spans across the 2x4's from the bottom. I can't imagine cutting them away as i'm guessing it's a support beam. Does anyone have any ideas on how to drywall these areas? I've included a picture of one of the corners to give you a visual. 










Also, if one were to insulate the vaulted area of the ceiling would one use insulation batts and install them between the studs of the ceiling as you would on the standing walls? or would you do it above the drywall or both?

I hope this is the right area to pose this question and I gave enough information.
The house was built in 1986 and is in southern California area.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Your pic is not showing.


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## WCR (Jan 12, 2013)

Thanks ddawg for letting me know,it doesn't seem to show when i use the image icon and post the link so i posted the link to the image. 

http://www.freeimagehosting.net/jaxf7


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I can not see why those diaganals are even needed.
You want to insulate the ceiling not the rafters.
If you do the rafters there going to be a lot of heat trapped at the roof, you would have to have soffit vents, a ridge vent, and baffles for air flow between the sheating and the insulation which cut's down on the avalible space for insulation.


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

from what I can tell in the pic, I'd just through up some blocking and remove the stud. It doesnt look like it is serving much function beyond swag prevention.


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## WCR (Jan 12, 2013)

Thanks for the responses, it's much appreciated. Since you mentioned swag I thought I should share some more information just in case it makes a difference.

The area I live in use to be extremely windy until it became more populous and built up. Today with all the houses and wind breaks it doesn't get to windy in my area however there are days which it can still get hit hard by the Santa Anna's (as we call it) and the wind can blow quite aggressively. 

Should this be a concern if removing the beam?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Santa Ann's? Must be in S CA....where I am....

Those boards were put there during the initial framing....they can come down if you drywall the ceiling. They basically keep everything square while it's being built. My garage had them except they were 1x6's.

Yep...take down the boards....do the ceiling first...then your walls.

I would suggest doing all of your electrical first...if in doubt...add more outlets...and when you think you have enough, add a couple more....oh, and put them at 50" or more in height...that way you can lean a 4x8 sheet of 'something' against the wall and not cover them up.

You will be amazed at how the lighting improves and the dirt goes down....along with all the spider webs.


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## WCR (Jan 12, 2013)

Thanks ddawg, i appreciate the insight about the electrical. Thanks everyone for the information.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I'd add some seismic up-lift resistance to the trusses, required by today's codes. H-1's on each truss, both sides; http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp

Remove the braces holding the corner walls square and put them on top the bottom chords for more diagonal resistance, #2, and diagram: http://www.sbcindustry.com/images/publication_images/b3.pdf

If you add an access for the attic, any wires within 6' require wood sleeper protection both sides against stepping on; http://www.codecheck.com/cc/ccimages/PDFs/CCB3_sample.pdf

Insulate the ceiling only.

Gary


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## WCR (Jan 12, 2013)

Thanks for the info and links GBR


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## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

Usually the rack braces like that go on top of the bottom cord.Never seen them on the bottom.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You're welcome, WCR, that's why we are here. Yes, I've installed maybe 10 garages with diagonal braces out of 300, all called for by the SE on the plans. If not on the plans/eng. truss papers, I doubt the framer would add them, especially on the bottom, esp. w. 45* cuts, as the walls are usually plumbed and lined w. braces to the bottom plate rather than plate/plate and doesn't need them for setting trusses. Maybe a homeowner added after the frame for the high-winds.IMO.

Gary


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