# How do you install a drip edge on a pre-existing roof?



## Marbledust (Jun 26, 2010)

You can pop the nails carefully that hold the first few layers of roofing down(comp roof?)remove the tar paper and pull the nails from the last board that enter the facia.
pre-paint the new facia and nail to rafter tails w/galvanized nails.install 2" drip edge,install tar paper(tuck under existing paper)hand paper over drip edge.re-install shingles.


----------



## gjeka (Sep 12, 2011)

I believe they are composite shingles. It was the first roof I installed on my home in 1990. Will the shingles separate to get the nails out? I recall they had tar stripes on the shingles. So my treated lumber board idea not good? I plan to cover with the aluminum fashia again anyway.


----------



## Marbledust (Jun 26, 2010)

gjeka said:


> I believe they are composite shingles. It was the first roof I installed on my home in 1990. Will the shingles separate to get the nails out? I recall they had tar stripes on the shingles. So my treated lumber board idea not good? I plan to cover with the aluminum fashia again anyway.


Use a flat bar and lift gently to pull nails,best when the roof is warm.treated lumber should last long time.after install caulk gaps to tails(termite protection)than cover with aluminum.


----------



## gjeka (Sep 12, 2011)

Can you buy tar paper in 1 foot rolls? I never tried to remove shingles before and was thinking it would be good to remove as little as possible to get the drip edge installed and new tar paper down.


----------



## Steve S (Jul 8, 2008)

At the risk of hijacking this thread, I've got a similar problem. I inherited my mother's house a while back. There's an area where water drips down from the gutter when it rains. At first I thought it was just clogged up and water was spilling over the top of the gutter. But during a recent rain I noticed that the water was coming down from behind the gutter. (The fascia board has aluminum over it.) 

Home Depot has something called a gutter skirt that should do the trick, but how do I hold it down? Is caulking or liquid nails enough, or do I need to nail it down?

Steve S


----------



## gjeka (Sep 12, 2011)

I would nail it down every 3 inches. You will have to loosen up a few rolls of shingles to get it below the shingles. I am going to use roof apron as it has a wider profile to fit under the roof.


----------



## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

gjeka said:


> So my treated lumber board idea not good? I plan to cover with the aluminum fashia again anyway.



The copper chemicals used in the treating process are corrosive to aluminum. You need to be careful working with treated lumber, even using the wrong fasteners can cause you serious problems.


----------



## Marbledust (Jun 26, 2010)

gjeka said:


> Can you buy tar paper in 1 foot rolls? I never tried to remove shingles before and was thinking it would be good to remove as little as possible to get the drip edge installed and new tar paper down.


Check it out at the local roofing supply.also the last course of 3 tab roofing requires the first roll of single be layed with the top edge down,so there is not a gap under the 3 tab seperation.first layer is doubled up.hang the single over the top of the drip edge 3/8".this will lead the water into the rain gutter.


----------



## Steve S (Jul 8, 2008)

I ended up installing gutter covers like this...
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-M...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

When I got up on the ladder I was shocked to discover that there was no drip edge of any kind.  The front edge of the plywood was in rough shape. Whenever the roof gets replaced that wood will need to be replaced. Those gutter covers extend pretty deep under the shingles so they should be adequate without any other drip edge.

Steve S


----------

