# Ran into complication during power steering repair.



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I was replacing my power steering/pump reservoir this weekend. Everything was going fine. After I pulled out the pump/reservoir, I discovered the steering coupling rag joint closest to the steering gear, was in really bad shape. A large portion of it has been eaten away by leaking p/s fluid.


No wonder I have loose, sloppy steering!



I have to wait several days to order Lares part #'s 204 or 206. I included a photo of the damaged rag joint. In the meantime, I can remove that old rag joint.


The current bolts appear to have Torx at one end, and regular nut on the other end. I think I'm going to have difficulty getting those bolts off. Thread locker red was probably used too. There isn't enough room to get a torx socket on there. What about using my Dremel or grinder with cutting wheel to either cut off Torx end of bolt, or cut through rag disc itself?


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Take the pinch bolt out and pull the whole joint assembly off of the steering gear splines, it should slide off easily once the bolt is out. If you have an airbag be sure to tie the steering wheel so it can't turn once the column is disconnected from the steering box. If the wheel does turn it's likely to ruin the clockspring. Good idea to tie it off even if you don't have an airbag. Some steering wheel controls may still use a clockspring to connect the wheel controls to the harness.

You'll likely need to drop the column from the dash or at least loosen it up to gain some clearance to get the joint out, no matter how you go about it. The rag joint bolts are probably not regular bolts, they may be shoulder bolts or otherwise specific to the application.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

That seems complicated. I thought I just need to remove the bolts and pull the rag disc assembly out perpendicular to the shaft.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

You're joint doesn't look right at all. Hard to tell for sure looking at that pic but appears bolted completely through and that is not right. 

Should be fastened to each half separately so the joint can allow some flex. Two bolts, or probably rivets, that mount the flex joint to the steering gear connector. Two more bolts go through the flex joint into the column flange, 90 degrees from the other two. The two pins keep the joint engaged if the flex joint were to completely fail. 

Looks like yours has been assembled together incorrectly, bolted solid with bolts passing clear through everything. I'd take it apart and replace the whole joint with new parts, assembled correctly, it's kind of important.


See these pics.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

The bolts are supposed to go all the way through. The rag disc has holes. The other steering coupling near the firewall is the same way. I attached another photo.

But how do I replace the coupling near the steering gear?


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

OK, this pic is easier to see. That is a bit different design, but the same principle. The metal bracket on the left side of the pic is a kind of hoop bracket that wraps around the flange on the column side. It's not actually a part of the column flange, it only wraps over the top. If the flex joint totally fails, this hoop is what keeps the two halves tied together so you don't lose steering. While the two halves appear to be bolted solidly together, they aren't. Both halves are only bolted to the rubber connector disc and gives the joint both isolation and flex.

The rubber disc bolts to the shaft flange on one side and then bolts to the steering gear flange on the other. If you can't get the room to get the bolts out then you'll probably need to pull out the pinch bolt and remove the shaft and coupler together. You can separate that upper rag joint then remove the short connecting shaft with the lower coupler as a unit. Remove the pinch bolt completely and the flange should slide right off of the steering gear shaft.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok.Thanks for explaining this fixit. I'm beginning to understand now how this all fits together. It's kinda hard for me to visualize this repair having never done it before. But this helps.

I only need to replace the rag joint closest to the steering gear.

I had to order the coupling rag disc. No one stocks it in their stores.

Will I need to disconnect and remove the power steering gear? 

Or will I need to drop the column from the shaft like you mentioned earlier? That probably isn't something I would do on my own.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

No need to take the steering gear loose. First I'd just try to take the lower joint apart first, if you can't get to those bolts then you'll have to go further. 

In that case I'd try to take the upper joint apart, it looks more accessible. Once you have that joint apart you should be able to slide the shaft sideways to separate them. Then take the pinch bolt out on the steering gear shaft and then remove that short section of shaft with the lower flex coupler as an assembly. Then you can replace that lower joint with the shaft out on the bench. 

If you need a little more clearance you may be able to loosen the column bolts under the dash. Sometimes there is room to slide the whole column up and down without actually unbolting it from the dash.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Are you sure those are torx and not socket cap screws?


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I believe you are correct in saying those are socket cap screws. 

It might be easier to shear off the socket caps, and back out the bolts from the other end.

I might reply with a couple questions this week before I work on it this weekend. I'll also see if I can find a youtube video of this procedure for my make/model.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Can you loosen the pinch bolt on the shaft—the one to the lower right of your socket cap in your pic? Maybe you could get a hex bit into the socket then, assuming you can slide the shaft out of the pinch?


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hi Huesmann. I see you noticed that pinch bolt. It is definitely on my radar. I'm going try what you suggested. I'm supposed to get the part today or tomorrow. 

Got a loaner vehicle for a few days. But I need to get this done this weekend. Might start earlier after work


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Something just occurred to me. Can I just remove both pinch bolts near firewall and at steering gear, and then remove the entire intermediate shaft (or whatever the correct term is) with both couplings. Then I could bench replace that bad coupling rag joint. That would be a lot easier in my opinion than working in the engine compartment.

Fixit, maybe you were suggesting this method earlier and I missed it.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Rangerxlt said:


> Something just occurred to me. Can I just remove both pinch bolts near firewall and at steering gear, and then remove the entire intermediate shaft (or whatever the correct term is) with both couplings. Then I could bench replace that bad coupling rag joint. That would be a lot easier in my opinion than working in the engine compartment.
> 
> Fixit, maybe you were suggesting this method earlier and I missed it.



You probably can, but you'd need to have enough movement to pull the splines apart. Getting enough clearance would likely require unbolting the steering column from the dash so you could separate at least one of the joints. 

How is the clearance around the upper joint? If you can get those two through bolts out, then the upper joint would separate and you can take the lower shaft and coupler out together.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

The steering coupling rag joint part came today. What do you mean exactly by 'clearance around the upper joint?'


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

You wanted to take the intermediate shaft out in one piece. In order to get either of the pinch bolt joints apart you're gonna need room to slide those joints apart. The shaft part has to slide out of the socket, on both joints.

Here, have you seen this video? Didn't have any detail on removing the shaft, but you can see how it fits together.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. Let me watch the video and I'll respond after work tonight


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Learning a little here, I am. In all my years wrenching I have never had to take apart or repair any steering linkages...


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

I had to do it a couple of times in my old Mustang, but can't for the life of me remember why. I know it was popular at the time to replace the rubber rag joint with a solid joint (similar to a driveshaft U-joint); that could've been it.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Why not some red loctite on those nuts and bolts?



iamrfixit said:


> You wanted to take the intermediate shaft out in one piece. In order to get either of the pinch bolt joints apart you're gonna need room to slide those joints apart. The shaft part has to slide out of the socket, on both joints.
> 
> Here, have you seen this video? Didn't have any detail on removing the shaft, but you can see how it fits together.[/url]


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

What vintage Mustang? My first car was a used 1966 fastback. I wish I still had it.



huesmann said:


> I had to do it a couple of times in my old Mustang, but can't for the life of me remember why. I know it was popular at the time to replace the rubber rag joint with a solid joint (similar to a driveshaft U-joint); that could've been it.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I use to replace those all the time in the 80's and 90's on Fords. Just unbolt it and shaft slides up. They came 2 ways. One was just the rubber part which looked like a piece of tire and the other was the whole assembly. Remember to secure the steering wheel before disassembly.:vs_cool:


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Well, there is no specific instruction in the Chilton manual for moving the shaft up a little bit. There is a 20 plus step instruction for removing the steering column. I don't know if I need to do all that to move the shaft a little bit.

It only requires 6 steps to remove the steering gear from the other shaft end.

It might help to know that my make/model just employs the two rag joint couplings....no U-joints

I looked under dash board last night. The steering shaft is in a pipe or conduit fastened with a clamp.

I might not have to move the shaft at all, if I can just unbolt and insert new rag disc.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

raylo32 said:


> What vintage Mustang? My first car was a used 1966 fastback. I wish I still had it.


Can't recall which it was—I had a 1989 that I traded in on a 1998.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I'm going to view fixit's video right after work tonight. 

I mentioned that section of steering shaft near the floorboard that's inside a pipe or conduit. I wonder if I can unbolt the shaft inside that conduit. 

I also found a steering shaft diagram for my make/model/year. It shows one bolt under the dashboard forward of the steering column. If that diagram is accurate and I can access this bolt without a lot of disassembly, this might simplify things and make it much easier.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I watched the video. Thanks. Now I know how it pieces together, especially that yoke/collar gadget.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I completed this repair. I did not have to remove the steering gear and I did not have to disconnect anything under the dashboard. When I removed the pinch bolts at both ends of the lower steering shaft, it compressed inward and it popped out.


So I have new steering coupling rag joint, new power steering pump reservoir, and new fluid lines. I also replaced the drive belts since I was already in the engine compartment.


No more steering slop.


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