# Best way to fill big hole in foundation



## joecaption

How lucky are you.
Look up Core Drilling or Concrete cutting in the phone book.
It's a long shot but they may be able to set you up with plug that they have removed or know where there's one laying around.
I'd be using hydrolic cemet not concrete if you can not find a plug.
Hydrolic will expand and lock in place better.


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## noquacks

picture of the hole attached -


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## joecaption

I was picturing a round hole.
Best way would be to remove some of the blocks left in place so there would be a running bond to lock the new ones in place.


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## noquacks

OK, thanks, Joe, but theres no blocks- its not a cement block foundation, its poured. But I like the idea of hydrolic cement. I can mix/pour that and use no rebar?? HD sell it?


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## noquacks

Also, was hoping to be able to pour in multiple pourings, so less weight per pour. Say, if I didnt have the plywood held in tightly enough, and the whole slurry mess falls out all at once!!! Can I pour it say, in 3 pourings (where I would be dealing with a limited mix/slurry, say, only a foot high?)


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## Fix'n it

hang a picture over it.


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## funfool

just my thought, I would put some rebar in it, try to tie it back into the original foundation.
Just drill 6-8" into the concrete. maybe 2 on top, bottom, left and right. 
Would be 8 holes and 8 pieces of bar using tie wire to connect.
Maybe someone else can add to the rebar idea, but at very least I would do that.

Will be interesting on how you form that and pour in the cement. probably will want to chip out some sort of access hole on top, attach a piece of plywood to the wall and pour concrete through the access hole you created.
The problem will be the weight as you suggest, will not be able to fasten the plywood to the wall strong enough to hold while it sets up.

Do you have a 4x4 pickup with the bumper at the right hight? Mount the plywood to the wall, then back the truck up into the plywood to hold it in place, can stand in the bed and pour the concrete in?


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## noquacks

funfool said:


> just my thought, I would put some rebar in it, try to tie it back into the original foundation.
> Just drill 6-8" into the concrete. maybe 2 on top, bottom, left and right.
> Would be 8 holes and 8 pieces of bar using tie wire to connect.
> Maybe someone else can add to the rebar idea, but at very least I would do that.
> 
> Will be interesting on how you form that and pour in the cement. probably will want to chip out some sort of access hole on top, attach a piece of plywood to the wall and pour concrete through the access hole you created.
> The problem will be the weight as you suggest, will not be able to fasten the plywood to the wall strong enough to hold while it sets up.
> 
> Do you have a 4x4 pickup with the bumper at the right hight? Mount the plywood to the wall, then back the truck up into the plywood to hold it in place, can stand in the bed and pour the concrete in?


These are some solid (pun?) idea! Yes, you get what Im talking about regarding all the weight pushing "back" out, ifn one pours ALL the slurry at once. All I have is a small car. But Im gonna figure it out. Need lots of weight against the plywood .......3 pours could do it. 

yes, could drill and tie in rebar somehow.


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## funfool

Go to home depot and rent a bulldog, will need it to drill the holes for the rebar, and also want a chipping bit to make the access hole to pour the concrete in, and again to install fasteners to bolt the plywood to the wall. You really are going to want a hammer drill for this project.

But holding the plywood form is going to be a creative process.


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## vsheetz

Fix'n it said:


> hang a picture over it.


:thumbsup:

Agree it's awkward, but what problem is the hole causing?


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## noquacks

vsheetz said:


> :thumbsup:
> 
> Agree it's awkward, but what problem is the hole causing?


Right now, no problem. Maybe I could/should live with it? Also, say I want to sell the house- it would be a bad selling point.


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## Canarywood1

noquacks said:


> Right now, no problem. Maybe I could/should live with it? Also, say I want to sell the house- it would be a bad selling point.


 
All you need to do with that is fill it with grout in 2 lifts,and your good to go,no steel required,just keep the grout on the stiff side.


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## noquacks

Canarywood1 said:


> All you need to do with that is fill it with grout in 2 lifts,and your good to go,no steel required,just keep the grout on the stiff side.


really? Grout? Like tile grout for ceramic tiles? No rebar? Is that cuz tile grout is soooo strong? Man if that works, Im all for it!


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## Canarywood1

noquacks said:


> really? Grout? Like tile grout for ceramic tiles? No rebar? Is that cuz tile grout is soooo strong? Man if that works, Im all for it!


 

Concrete grout,a sand and cement mix,and when you get it poured tap the form board a half dozen times to ensure a nice smooth finish when you remove the board.


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## noquacks

Canarywood1 said:


> Concrete grout,a sand and cement mix,and when you get it poured tap the form board a half dozen times to ensure a nice smooth finish when you remove the board.


Thanks, Canary. Can you Fill me in a little on this- as it seems too easy. No rebar? No stones in the mix? Just concrete grout? Home Depot has it? You done this before? This has as much "strength as the "other" way? Understand, I need more here, but appreciate your concern/help. This is major here, but if this works, Im for it.


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## Canarywood1

noquacks said:


> Thanks, Canary. Can you Fill me in a little on this- as it seems too easy. No rebar? No stones in the mix? Just concrete grout? Home Depot has it? You done this before? This has as much "strength as the "other" way? Understand, I need more here, but appreciate your concern/help. This is major here, but if this works, Im for it.


 
Your patching a hole not building Sears tower,what's the rebar going to do,you don't need strength, the walls been standing for how long now??
Yes Home Depot has it,and i worked for a redi-mix producer for 35 years and have seen many holes patched this way.


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## noquacks

Canarywood1 said:


> Your patching a hole not building Sears tower,what's the rebar going to do,you don't need strength, the walls been standing for how long now??
> Yes Home Depot has it,and i worked for a redi-mix producer for 35 years and have seen many holes patched this way.


LOL!! Sears Tower!
You got a good point, canary. Right- hole in wall sbeen there for maybe ....years. And it never seeps water even in the worst rains. 

So, just any 25lb bag of say, coarse grout (for floor ceramic tile, say)?

For sure I will need enough for say, 6 CF......
Tanks, canary, for persisting with me and my concerns!!! Youve givemn me much hope/inspiration!


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## noquacks

Canarywood1 said:


> Concrete grout,a sand and cement mix,and when you get it poured tap the form board a half dozen times to ensure a nice smooth finish when you remove the board.


OOps, just realized you already posted the exact stuff, Cannary. Concrete grout it is. I will ask for it specifically, I guess....


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## Canarywood1

noquacks said:


> OOps, just realized you already posted the exact stuff, Cannary. Concrete grout it is. I will ask for it specifically, I guess....


 
Yup,just a sand and cement mix,no coarse aggregate.


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## stadry

when we do this type of patch, we always mechanically attach it to the surrounding conc,,, bulldog some holes in top, btm, & both sides,,, we insert 3/8 x 8" bolts 3" into the holes,,, CLEAN the sidewalls well & nail on a plywood plate leaving 3" open on the top edge,,, mix grout & pour into the form'd hole,,, when set, remove the ply form & finish w/hydraulic :thumbsup: the other methods also work but this is the 1 we use


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## r0ckstarr

Fit a steel safe to it, then put a storage cabinet in front of it, or hang a picture over it. Nobody will ever look there for valuables.


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## pwgsx

r0ckstarr said:


> Fit a steel safe to it, then put a storage cabinet in front of it, or hang a picture over it. Nobody will ever look there for valuables.


 Thats what I was thinking too:thumbsup:


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## r0ckstarr

pwgsx said:


> Thats what I was thinking too:thumbsup:


Must be a Texas thing. :laughing:


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## funfool

I will agree with others that no rebar is absolutely needed.
Sometimes when we give advice over the internet, we tend to go just a bit further to be safer and give good advice.
Anytime I pour a footing for a footing on a new addition, I am required by code to use rebar to tie it into the original footing/foundation.
And since this wall seems to be part of the foundation, I just naturally think rebar. It really would help tie in the new concrete to the old. Besides it would be free for me :thumbup:
My boss has told me 100 times, if I am working on my house or a side job for someone else, and the material is sitting in the yard, USE IT! Tired of storing it.

Since others do not see the hole as a foundation or strength issue.
Maybe it would be more productive to frame it with wood and close it in. 
Looks kinda deep, might find that you can just fur out the walls and insert a cabinet. Or just build shelfs. Would now look like it has a purpose and not just a hole in the wall.

Question is, is it structural or not?


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## noquacks

Tyanks, people. yes, a little deep, but not so much- say, 15" or so- just enough for the imbecile to stick the nose of his boat in. Good tip on forming a few shelves in there! That way, if prospective future buyer, I can say this garage comes with built in shelving that doesnt take space away from car parking area!!!! LOL

Now, at least, I have many good ideas, and feel better that it may not be necessary to rebar. But, if you look at the picture again, see the 2 rebar nubs sticking downward, from the top edge? Those should help in "hooking" the new concrete/grout. I will make this a job with less urgency than I though, I guess. It will get done.


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## noquacks

OK, is this the stuff?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100598...51&N=5yc1vZ1xh7Zbogd&R=100598897#.UTCyK1eAt2A


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## noquacks

itsreallyconc said:


> when we do this type of patch, we always mechanically attach it to the surrounding conc,,, bulldog some holes in top, btm, & both sides,,, we insert 3/8 x 8" bolts 3" into the holes,,, CLEAN the sidewalls well & nail on a plywood plate leaving 3" open on the top edge,,, mix grout & pour into the form'd hole,,, when set, remove the ply form & finish w/hydraulic :thumbsup: the other methods also work but this is the 1 we use


Instructions say to [grease/lubricate] the form surface so it wont stick to grout when set. Do I need to spray WD 40 to the plywood?

Also, how long before I can remove the plywood?

Thankls!! getting there!!!!!!!


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## Hardway

Just get a bag or two of ready mix. If you can find a 5 gallon pail of broken concrete. Mix the ready mix stiff, use a trowel and place a layer of ready mix. Place some small pieces of the broken concrete then a layer of ready mix. Continue until the hole is filled and flush with the wall. Use a straight 1” x 4” board edge to check it is flush with the wall. If you want put a few rebar in.
 Done this many times!:thumbsup:


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## Canarywood1

noquacks said:


> OK, is this the stuff?
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100598...51&N=5yc1vZ1xh7Zbogd&R=100598897#.UTCyK1eAt2A


 

Yes that's what you want,and yes to the WD40 and you can remove the form after 4-5 hours,remember pour it a little on the dry side.


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## jomama45

Personally, I wouldn't be using a NS grout for what you're trying to accomplish. There's really no need for a 10-12K psi mix. Not to mention, that stuff is self-leveling and will put more load on your formwork. Standard 4000 psi "quickcrete" mixed relatively wet and poured into the top of the form will suffice. I'd also add a few dowels into the existing just to keep it from potentially "creeping" ahead through time. For pour like this with no access from the top, we'll either remove some concrete at the top to allow the concrete to be poured in, or drill a 4.5" hole into the very top of the forms and attach a 4" PVC street elbow to pour the concrete into and allow for head pressure to ensure it's full..............


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## noquacks

jomama45 said:


> or drill a 4.5" hole into the very top of the forms and attach a 4" PVC street elbow to pour the concrete into and allow for head pressure to ensure it's full..............


And once its full, you leave the elbow partly full of mix, to harden? Then, after removing form, does that excess which hardened into elbow just snap off?


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## jomama45

noquacks said:


> And once its full, you leave the elbow partly full of mix, to harden? Then, after removing form, does that excess which hardened into elbow just snap off?


We typically wait a little while for the concrete to become firm and pull the elbow and replace it with the piece of lumber/plywood we drilled out with a hole saw..........


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