# Trafficmaster Allure ULTRA! Planks



## wiley0714

Would like to see here if anyone bought or installed the ULTRA traffic master Allure planks now sold at home depot.

I am considering this for a basement. I have laminate flooring dont which was two separate colors with carpet. I am not planning to remove the carpet and use the floating old laminate for two other rooms.

I still have the vapor barrier/foam underlay from the laminate flooring down. I intend to keep that there. I know that concrete in a basement will get (wet) from ground water absorption. I know mold grows from heat and moisture. 

I intend to keep the foam barrier to keep any mold, vapors, out of the basement. As a note. The previous laminate was placed over a heated floor in some areas. *I discovered that an area in which I know i spilled (either gun cleaner or another liquid) there was mold. This mold was on the laminate between the foam and the laminate. I presume the heated floor provided the heat and the laminate provided the food for the mold growth.* This is why I would prefer a vinyl product like this Ultra Alure, instead of the reg laminate.

I know this is the new Allure product so i would like to see comment or reviews on it. *Not on the Allure glue together vinyl, or sheets of vinyl only comment on the allure ultra planks please!* Thanks ...


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## aboveaveragejoe

Hey Wiley0714!

I am a flooring specialist from the Atlanta area and just wanted to say a quick hello and answer your question regarding comments or reviews on TrafficMaster Allure Vinyl. 



TrafficMaster Allure planks get the attention they do because of the ease of use. The only time I've personally ever see a customer frustrated with the product is when[/COLOR] they did not let the product acclimate and some the edges did peel up. Even with the substrate being vinyl it needs a day or so for the planks to get adjusted to the temperature, etc. After I explained that to her, she had no further issues with theinstallation. Also, I just spoke with my Flooring Installer Specialist and we both agree that leaving the foam underlayment would not work in this situation due to the Allure planks not being able to hold onto the subfloor itself. I recommend either a sheet of polyurethane or similar vapor barrier thin plastic (ie 6 mil) or you can paint the floor with a waterproofing membrane. The foam underlayment is just too thick for the vinyl planks to hold properly. We sell both of the underlayment’s and you can find those products at any nearest home center. That way you’ll have no slippage or possible failure from your new floor.

Overall,it’s a great product and I'm gladyou’re still doing research before diving into the project!

Thanks,

aboveaveragejoe
___________________________________________________________________________________________


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## wiley0714

*Thanks but your biased*

With all respect joe:

1. The planks I am talking about, stick to each other. There is not any glue or stripes to stick to the floor. 

2. This is a new product, and I assume you are NOT familiar with it. The edges glue to each other for the waterproof/resistant effect.

3. *As an employee of Home Depot, I do not expect your opinion, which is reflective of making a stores product look more appealing, to be objective.*

4. Home depot does provide reviews, and those post can be controlled in favor of Home depot. And many of there reviews are matched to various similar products, but not product specific.

I am asking for anyone who bought, the *new vinyl planks, which have an edge , in which each plank overlaps to create a seal in between the planks. *

Not the planks in which , you peel off adhesive to stick the plank to the floor.


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## jricharc

What Joe is saying is correct, the Allure flooring has the edges that stick together to create a "floating floor" which is why a foam underlayment will not work. It will allow to much movment within the strips causing the seams to separate. Do like I did and get an approx. 3'x3' piece of 6mil plastic and duct tape it to your floor for a week and see if any moisture collects in that time. If after a week there is no moisture present you are good to lay your flooring right over the slab if not I would recommend painting the slab with a concrete sealer before laying the floor.


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## Rebster

*I just installed Allure Ultra Planks*

I think you're off base with your comments wiley0714.

I just installed this product in my house when I decided I didn't want to mess with the hardwoods that were in bad shape and had been covered over with carpet by the last owners.

I'm not an expert installer by any means, just a female that is up tackling any project on my house. If you leave material that has that much give you are going to have issues, plain and simple. 

When you're done you'll love the floor. I went with this also because I have a 8 year old dog that frequently has accidents.


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## klally

AboveaverageJoe. Read the post. It is Allure Ultra. Not the sticky strip.
It uses the Uniclick system like laminate flooring. Home Depot must have the worst product training for sales because no one in the store has any clue that this product is available. I have had to show store employee everytime where it is on the website after taking over their keyboard because they are computer illiterate. Then I ask them to find out when the store will be stocking the Ultra product and have no idea where to call.
So I take the phone out of his hand, sit in his chair and call corporate.
They tell me it is set to "roll out" to stores. But no idea when.


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## ooak2804

*Allure ULTRA*

Well they found a gunie pig to sell it to The structural composition of the plank (Its not a Plank) is excellent. I used the old Grip Strip before loved it but any piece of furniture left shinny lines in the floor. That Home Depot could not explain. Finally made up some Min wax dark cheery stain and wood putty and rubbed it in. It work some what. NOTHING else did after 4 months sold the home.

Wife is in a power wheel chair and 2 ****zus that don't make it out side sometimes. The Commercial coating is excellent. That is why I choose ULTRA not the Grip Strip. Installation instructions and warranty are nonexistent!!! Not in the box, printed on the box, or any Home Depot employee has a clue about the product. Spent over 1 hour on the chat line at Home Depot with 4 different persons. The last one said I found you Traffic Master web site. GUESS What Allure site has is instructions for the Grip Strip NOTHING any ware about the ULTRA I have more knowledge than they do after my research Your right about them being brain dead 

I paid a professional installer $500.00 for the install and he started over 5 times before the click grip started to go in like PERGO locking system (They copied the system like Pergo) Well 24 hours later most of the floor came apart 

I am going to Home Depot on Wed this week for a appointment with the store manage I am looking for a reinstall by THERE PROFESSIONAL INSTALLERS and to replace and damaged pieces. I have pictures if I can find my UBS cord

Oh by the way The plank is not a Plank On one side its is a 3 1/2x 48 inch strip and the other side are 3 1/2 x 24 strips Youe dont see that on the web. A plank is a solid board that is greater than 4 1/2 in with. Look closely at the display in the store and you will see gray lines between the Alure Ultra This will not make the floor water proof. 

Its also is very hard to work with. A utility knife blade last about 5 cuts. Then you need a new blade. The hard surface they say it is , is a true 20mm thick and verry hard so I think the surface will hold up alright if you can get to stay together


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## ooak2804

wiley0714 said:


> Would like to see here if anyone bought or installed the ULTRA traffic master Allure planks now sold at home depot.
> 
> I am considering this for a basement. I have laminate flooring dont which was two separate colors with carpet. I am not planning to remove the carpet and use the floating old laminate for two other rooms.
> 
> I still have the vapor barrier/foam underlay from the laminate flooring down. I intend to keep that there. I know that concrete in a basement will get (wet) from ground water absorption. I know mold grows from heat and moisture.
> 
> I intend to keep the foam barrier to keep any mold, vapors, out of the basement. As a note. The previous laminate was placed over a heated floor in some areas. *I discovered that an area in which I know i spilled (either gun cleaner or another liquid) there was mold. This mold was on the laminate between the foam and the laminate. I presume the heated floor provided the heat and the laminate provided the food for the mold growth.* This is why I would prefer a vinyl product like this Ultra Alure, instead of the reg laminate.
> 
> I know this is the new Allure product so i would like to see comment or reviews on it. *Not on the Allure glue together vinyl, or sheets of vinyl only comment on the allure ultra planks please!* Thanks ...



See my post ooak2804


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## 2benandlira

*Having second thoughts about the Allure Ultra*

I nearly ordered this flooring a few hours ago at our local Home Depot. It seems perfect for us since we have an old wood floor in our living/dining room and kitchen that really needs to be replaced. I need something more durable than wood and something that's waterproof as well. They did have a couple of choices in stock but not enough to do the job. Maybe it's a good thing that I came home and read the reviews before I ordered it in the store. I'm hesitant now due to the review that said the floor came apart in 24 hours. I also have large dogs that can be tough on any floor. I certainly don't want it coming apart. I'd be really interested in hearing if anyone else has installed this flooring and how it's holding up. I'm just inquiring about the planks using the CLIC installation method, not the planks that stick together with attached adhesive strips.


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## charw1013

*Trafficmaster Allure Ultra*

Considering this flooring in our family room. Will be put over a concrete floor. But we also have two steps that go up to main part of house. Can this product be used vertically on the front of the steps? Are there strips that match floor whiuch would cover the edge of the steps? Also any other tips about installing would be appreciated.


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## rusty baker

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/d0/d0c0bf10-7dd2-47ca-9459-577a22eeeb65.pdf


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## lrl

How frustrating to have so few people actually read your question!? You are asking about the ULTRA product. NOT the Allure with sticky sides. 

I do not have the ULTRA product. I have used the Allure and based on my experience with that, I would be very hesitant to use anything from the same line (easily marked by moving even light furniture around).


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## stary kozel

*real diy*

To the individual with having the flooring unlatched in 24 hours: I bet that your installer had some experience with laminate flooring but none with the Allure Ultra. Ultra needs to be installed following the procedure EXACTLY!. Otherwise, because the material is much softer than laminate, he was obviously shearing off the latching feature(s). Or he did not latched the pieces in proper sequence. Or not at all. Why don't you take pictures (details) of the failed seam(s) and show them to us here? This Chatroom allows you to post images here.

Marking the flooring - just read the procedure - it is there how to limit such.

Also, this is a "floating" system - you cannot leave zero space around the sloor edges, nor install molding too tight against the flooring surface. 

I recommend to read procedures, even if you use "professional" installer. In the first (laminate) flooring job in our previous home I hired installer and then, just because I knew how it should be done, fired him within one hour. And did 1800 feet all by miself with no problems. And then, two years ago, did it in our new house, this time 2000 feet. And I was then 66 years old.


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## stary kozel

Here is link to see the installation video for Allure Ultra (click pieces together). Try to see the whole thing before starting to complain.

http://ext.homedepot.com/video/?bcpid=207606409001&bctid=648249881001


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## ooak2804

*ooak*



stary kozel said:


> To the individual with having the flooring unlatched in 24 hours: I bet that your installer had some experience with laminate flooring but none with the Allure Ultra. Ultra needs to be installed following the procedure EXACTLY!. Otherwise, because the material is much softer than laminate, he was obviously shearing off the latching feature(s). Or he did not latched the pieces in proper sequence. Or not at all. Why don't you take pictures (details) of the failed seam(s) and show them to us here? This Chatroom allows you to post images here.
> 
> Marking the flooring - just read the procedure - it is there how to limit such.
> 
> Also, this is a "floating" system - you cannot leave zero space around the sloor edges, nor install molding too tight against the flooring surface.
> 
> I recommend to read procedures, even if you use "professional" installer. In the first (laminate) flooring job in our previous home I hired installer and then, just because I knew how it should be done, fired him within one hour. And did 1800 feet all by miself with no problems. And then, two years ago, did it in our new house, this time 2000 feet. And I was then 66 years old.





stary kozel said:


> To the individual with having the flooring unlatched in 24 hours: I bet that your installer had some experience with laminate flooring but none with the Allure Ultra. Ultra needs to be installed following the procedure EXACTLY!. Otherwise, because the material is much softer than laminate, he was obviously shearing off the latching feature(s). Or he did not latched the pieces in proper sequence. Or not at all. Why don't you take pictures (details) of the failed seam(s) and show them to us here? This Chatroom allows you to post images here.
> 
> Marking the flooring - just read the procedure - it is there how to limit such.
> 
> Also, this is a "floating" system - you cannot leave zero space around the sloor edges, nor install molding too tight against the flooring surface.
> 
> I recommend to read procedures, even if you use "professional" installer. In the first (laminate) flooring job in our previous home I hired installer and then, just because I knew how it should be done, fired him within one hour. And did 1800 feet all by miself with no problems. And then, two years ago, did it in our new house, this time 2000 feet. And I was then 66 years old.



kozel I am also in my 60 and have built 5 homes form top to bottom so I an not a novice in doing a floor. I was the first person at Home Depot to purchase this NEW product in Oct of 2010 The store employee had no clue what I was talking about till I made him bring up the Home Depot,Com web site. I had to order it from the main computer in the front of the store as they could not receive it there in the Wixom location When it arrived There was no instruction printed on the box (I have installed over 8 Allure Grip Stick Floors for many of friends and family There instruction were printed on the back of the box) Upon opening the boxes (24 of them) I was surprised to fine NO INSTRUCTIONS ANY WHERE) First I know how to accumulate to the proper temperature , I waited for about 4 days before starting even opening the boxes. You don't have to be a rocket scientist to install this floor it just I had surgery and that why I hired a good friend who is a full 34 years in the business installer. We went to the manufacture web site (HALLSTEAD INTERNATIONAL) They did not even have a thing on the ULTRA product WHAT!!!!!!! Google the words Allure Ultra and over 40 sites kept bringing you back to instructions on how to install the ALLURE GRIP STRIP KIND. Went to 4 Home Depots looking for some help. However I found out they they new absolutely NOTHING about what I had just purchased. I was provided with out even a copy of any warranty or my Consumer rights if I had a problem. The 3 pictures on the box that say step one, two, three is wrong! After 4 phone calls to Home Depot <com (Three hours on the phone) I finial y found some one who got me a website at Hallstead Int . She said it was there instruction site for lost instructions GREAT!!!!! You guessed it ALLURE GRIP STRIP instructions. After the 3 time installing about 25% of the floor I had enough. Tore up the sheet vinyl, laid my $600.00 lazier with a 90 degree reading and the floor is + or - 1/64 So off to home Depot and lo and behold they have a DISPLAY of 2 colors GUESS WHAT I went over to the display and could pick up the so called interlocking piece. Theirs would lock properly either. Show the store manager and he said this interesting. but we don't have a person to come out and see the problem! WHAT!!!!!

So her I am with a NON waterproof floor (remember I remover the sheet vinyl) that has gray limes though out the floor and can lift some pieces with my fingernail

My neighbor loved the floor when it was going in he went out that after noon and spent $3,400.00 for the in stock color that they got in that day. He seen the problem I was having and thought I might got a first run error in production However after the next week when he tried to install it. It also came apart after getting about 4 rows out from the start ( he is a builder) He took it all back

As of today with a help of a Flooring person in the North ville store I was able to talk to a real person at Hallstead and she said that they were having some problems but very few for a new product and to send me some pictures So we will see!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After all that, the floor Black walnut if beautiful its just the gray seams and the water from the dog dish going to the sub floor if getting to me Will keep you posted.:furious:


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## stary kozel

Yesterday I wrote note describing two "theoretical" Ultra installation schemes that may seem crazy. It is here:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f5/allure-vinyl-plank-click-together-92821/

I think that Ultra could drive people insane because this nearly 4 feet plank is flexible and bends. I mean, installing 12 mm thick floating flooring laminate planks is piece of cake comparing to this one because it is rigid. Even the glue-together Allure tile was challenge at first because the piece bends and one of the ends may contact the other glue strip* EXACTLY where you do not want it!*

So yesterday, after writing my note about Ultra I started having second thoughts about it for the following reasons:

1) I can install the Allure tile (no experience with Allure plank) no problem - next room is simple rectangle and compared to the kitchen I'd done already it will be breeze
2) our kitchen flooring is in place for two weeks now and there are no problems at all
3) the next room will be for our puppies to frolic around and pee everywhere (yes it will be cleaned within 1/2 hour or so....) and the seams between Allure Ultra planks do not give me 100% confidence that the urine would not seep to the wood flooring under it, regardless my small experiment before.
4) I can use the same pattern of the Allure tile we used in the kitchen which is going to make my wife happy.
5) IT IS a' 30% CHEAPER THAN THE ULTRA!
6) And - the locking feature in the Ultra is done using secondary, machining (millings) operation. It is impossible to guarantee perfect quality doing it; there need to be pretty tight tolerances to be used. This machining operation generates a lot of shavings which may cause problems - dimensional due to accumulation and higher cutting temperature. These shawings are probably blown away from the material, but if there is low humidity in the manuf. room, they will stick to wrong places due to electrostatic/triboelectric charges. (As anybody who machines/cuts plastics knows pretty well). 

So last evening I took two pieces of the Allure tile I have left from the kitchen job, connected the glued lips together, compressed them just using my hands and then walked on the seam. Then I took it outside and left it there overnight. We had there something like 20 degrees F and this morning the sample was just fine, it was not brittle and the seam held even when I bent it some. Now it is in the living room; while it was still cold, I put it down on a carpet that lays on top of our laminate floor and step on it some. It did not separated. After 2 hours in the living room I bent it pretty severely, and the seam held.

I will repeat this "cooling/reheating procedure few more times just to make sure, but am pretty sure I will use the Allure tile.

What I learned to date:
1) Allure tile is better for us that the Ultra
2) Allure glue-together does not hold if it is installed over basement concrete floor - people do not realize that the ground temperature is in the 40s Deg. F and it takes some serious effort to bring the temp of the concrete surface to the 60s Deg. F to make sure the glue works well. This is because the glue does not work well at lower temperatures. 
3) people do not use the recommended 100# roller

Based on this, because our large sun room is over unheated crawl space, we will wait until warm weather. This is because the *temperature of our floor* in this room was yesterday only 54 Deg. F while the room is heated by our central heating system to the came temperature as the rest of the house. This waiting for warm weather will assure we will not have any problems in the future.


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## af9485

I'm finishing about 700 sf of basement and contemplated many flooring styles over the past few weeks. I decided to go with the Allure Ultra vinyl clic planks. I've installed roughly 100 sf of the flooring directly over concrete thus far and have had no problems at all. I've read some of the complaints online and many seem to stem from improper installation. Every box I bought had 2 sets of instructions, one in English and the other in Spanish. As far as the separation after 24 hours goes, I have tried to pull mine apart, run and jump on them, and have had my 2 Boxers run over them and they are holding up just fine. It's only been a week so far but they passed the initial test. Getting the planks to actually "click" in place was a little trickey at first but once you get the hang if it the remaining planks go in easily. I was also seeing the grey gaps (1/32 in at most) between my planks at first but that's because they weren't actullay clicked into place. If you see the gaps while you 're installing them then take a rubber mallet and lightly tap them into place until the gap is gone. Then step on the seem or use a roller and the fit will be perfectly tight. Cutting them can be a little tough but you're scoring the plank to snap it not actually cut it. Since the plank is semi-flexible it will only snap properly if you're trying to snap more than 12 inches off at a time. For cutting smaller parts of the end off I had to score it with a utility blade 1-2 times then take tin snips to cut the first inch of the score...it then became easy to snap. It seems a lot of complaints come from having no patience or unrealistic expectations of the product. People want a "tough" floor that's "easy" to cut which is a little ironic. If you take your time and install it properly I would recommend the Ultra to anyone. It does cost $1 more per sf than the glue-together Allure planks but you don't have to worry about edges raising or the glue not sticking like soooo many people have complained about.


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## hackwriter

I just saw this product at Home Depot and was intrigued because it seems even easier than the kind with the glue strip, and doesn't require a 100-lb. roller. Does it really "click" to let you know it is in properly? I am doing a 9 x 17 kitchen, on top of existing sheet vinyl where I have to cut some edges off under and around cabinets because it's coming up. Never done a floor before. Do you think it's OK for a novice DIY-er to do?


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## af9485

Hackwriter,

I had never done flooring prior to remodeling my basement so I can say with confidence this product is easily installed by the DIY type. It doesn't necessarily click to let you know it's installed properly but if you see any grey between the planks then you haven't connected them right. The Allure Ultra is easy to lay and although some may disagree, I found it easy to cut as well. You'll need a utility knife and several fresh blades. You score the plank about 3-4 times and it easily snaps off. The only tricky part is finishing off the final edge which requires you to score the plank the long way which is a little more difficult to snap. My wife was able to help me lay a lot of this flooring and she does ZERO home improvement work lol.


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## IceT

These have been having problems falling apart.. don't recommend at this point.


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## af9485

Could you be more specific...how exactly are they falling apart?


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## hackwriter

I've also read horror stories of people getting sick after installing this stuff. We had industrial carpet put into our basement and we felt ill for 6 months from the off-gassing. I'd like to avoid that in future. My husband is messy in the kitchen so I need something easy to clean and highly water-resistant, which leaves out hardwood and makes laminate questionable. That's why this stuff intrigued me. Anyone had odor problems with it?


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## Dan Tillman

I have purchased the Allure Ultra vinyl 4' X 7.5" Resilient Plank Flooring. I am looking to find instructions on installing this product. I know that I need to stagger the pieces, but I don't know if I can install in a brick pattern 2' then 4' and so on, or can I cut the planks in 1' then the next one 2' then the next one 3' and the last one the full 4' plank? Also, if I score the piece, do I score it on the top side or the bottom side?

I am starting this project tomorrow so I just need to see what is best for installation. I am installing this in a basement concrete floor in the laundry room/furnace room.

Since there are no instructions with the 4 boxes I bought, do I need a 6 mil plastic vapor barrier or just put it on top of the concrete?

Please advise.


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## allure pro

*Instructions for Allure Ultra*

Hi All - I am sorry you have had some troubles getting info on the Allure Ultra. It is new and not all HD stores have been trained on the product yet. Here are the installation instructions and FAQs for the Allure Ultra.


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## StElmoQn

We are seriously consdering the Allure Ultra for our soon-to-be constructed basement bathroom, but my husband is concerned about mold/mildew under the interlocking planks. Since you can't put an underlayment under it without voiding the warranty, is this something we should even worry about. We live Colorado, but the climate is pretty dry in the Denver area.


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## dustinm

I realize that the Allure Ultra flooring (or the grip strip product for that matter) is not recommended for RV applications, but I have done A TON of reading and see that there are MANY people using it for this application. However, I am wondering what the issue is with the product in this application? We live up in Canada, and our RV will go through some HUGE temp variations, but is only used/occupied in the summer when its warm. Otherwise its stored outside, unheated.
Is the issue simply an expansion and contraction issue? If the proper gap is left at the wall, should the product not be able to 'float' as it is designed to do, regardless of temp variation? I am being forced to replace my flooring in the RV due to cracked sheet vinyl from winter temps. However, this cracking is the result of the sheet vinyl being improperly installed at the factory. It was glued around the perimeter, but not in the middle, which caused the middle of the room to crack as the sheet tried to contract, but was held in place by the perimeter glue. I see that there could be issue with the Allure grip strips failing in the cold, but what is the reasoning behind not using the 'clicking' Ultra if there is no adhesive to fail? 
I am REALLY considering this product, as I don't want the hassle of installing a full vinyl floor, and don't want the weight of laminate. It sounds like it would work perfectly for this application, but many seem to discourage it. WHY?
PLEASE give some advice.


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## FloorPro

*Allure and Allure Ultra*

Hi all... My name is John... I install Allure and Allure Ultra professionally here in TN... I have seen it all when it comes to Allure... I have about 900 to 1000 Allure jobs under my belt... I will answer any questions you may have to the best of my ability...


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## FloorPro

You can always paint the floor prior to installation or install 6 mil plastic sheeting under the Allure...


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## FloorPro

I always install Allure and Laminate in what I call thirds... You want to stagger the floor in thirds to maintain a natural looking floor, but to also give it strength... This method doesnt have to be presise... You will want to score it on the top side... It will snap easier if you score the top protective wear layer... Plus that also keeps the plank oriented to your job...


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## ATRAWLINGS

Hi John. I am building a stage for a health club fitness studio. Would you consider the Allure Ultra a good choice for this application directly over the top of 3/4" OSB? 

And also...would there be any ill effects with nailing this on in 12" strips across the front facing of the stage?

thanks


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## FloorPro

It will make an awesome floor for your application... Its very durable and does have a 10 year commercial warranty as well as lifetime residential... Plus its waterproof... As far as nailing it to the sides, it shouldnt be a problem... Its one of those gray areas considering its a floating floor, but as long as you somehow hide the nail heads and use a stair edge metal or equivalent around it you should be just fine... Good luck...


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## Paul Ebert

I'm considering using this to redo my basement floor. I'm currently in the process of replacing the flooring due to flooding for the second time in 5 years. Previously, I had Dricore OSB tiles with industrial carpet on top. The Dricore tiles work well for small amounts of water, but if the water gets high enough, they offer no protection and you just end up having to tear them out along with the carpet (or other flooring).

At this point, my main concern is what will happen if I do get another flood in the basement? Will I end up having to tear the Ultra out as well, or will it survive it?


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## FloorPro

Allure Ultra is a fantastic product and since it is completely waterproof, it will be an awesome floor for your situation... Even if the floor floods again, you should be able to take it up to dry the floor and then reuse it again... I would make one suggestion for you... Install 3.5 mill or 6 mill plastic sheeting down on your floor before you install the Allure... It will only benefit you considering its cheap insurance... It is a vapor barrier between the concrete and the floor...


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## FloorPro

If your floor does flood again, the Allure will be fine but it would just take time for the water to dry under it...


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## rusty baker

Thank you to the HD empoyee.


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## FloorPro

Im not an HD employee...


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## rusty baker

The only thing you post about is Allure and all you do is praise it.


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## FloorPro

Haha I dont post, I respond... Im an installer that specializes in laminate and Allure... Im knowledgable and experienced in all aspects of flooring though...


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## FloorPro

I praise it because it works where other floors wont and as long as its installed properly, its a very nice floor...


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## rusty baker

There have been many problems with it, even when properly installed.


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## FloorPro

I am only going on the 50 or 60 jobs Ive installed without issues... Ive had a few issues with the regular Allure though, but nothing that couldnt be worked out...


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## FloorPro

Explain some of the "many" issues with the Ultra you seem to know about...


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## Paul Ebert

Ooak2804 seems to have had problems with the Ultra (see post #7), but the other problems I've read about seemed to be related to the adhesive strip Allure. Still, I'm a bit hesitant. I wish there were more options. I guess I could always put down ceramic tile or regular vinyl (sheet or tile).


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## FloorPro

It sounds like it was an installer issue... My first time with Allure Ultra sucked too, but once you do it and learn the right way, its easy... Good luck


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## mork

*Allure transitions*

FloorPro,

Thank you for your information regarding Allure Ultra. While I understand you need to cover the edges with base moulding and use transition mouldings between the Allure and tile or carpeting, what about transitioning from the Allure to a patio door track or closet sliding door track? Is there a "stop" moulding available similar to other laminate flooring products?

Thank you.


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## FloorPro

You can use a number of things... 1/4 round or shoe moulding can be used there... They make different sizes of each, so finding something is easy... If you keep the required expansion gap at 1/8 inch, you could even use colored putty in the gap...


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## Paul Ebert

FloorPro said:


> It sounds like it was an installer issue... My first time with Allure Ultra sucked too, but once you do it and learn the right way, its easy... Good luck


So, might you be able to fill us in on "the right way" or is this perhaps not the best DIY project?


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## FloorPro

They install very similar to planked laminate... Install the short end first and pull the long end at about a 15 degree angle toward you... The first couple rows are more difficult until you can actually get on the floor and pull the planks toward you...


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## FloorPro

No one is going to be a pro the first time... I never said it was the best DIY project, but if you take your time and be patient, you will get it...


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## loggerhead

*Allure Ultra in Curve Design?*

Hi, I would like to install the Allure Ultra in a curve design, like a semi-circle with a light wood color in the middle of a square with a dark wood color. Would this be possible with the Ultra planks? I know it's fairly easy to do with VCTs that are glued to the floor. Would one have to glue down the transition area or would it buckle and lift after a short period?


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## FloorPro

Ultra will not be the product to use for your application... Even the regular Allure wouldnt work... You will want to use something that could be glued down or nailed... Armstrong makes a vinyl plank that requires glued down and you might be able to use that but it would be fairly difficult to do...


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## tara8595

*Installation tips and what to do with door jambs?*

All: I have been reading these discussions for weeks. Just got my floor and am in the acclimation stage. Pulled a few planks just to see how easy/hard it would be. Various instructions are somewhat conflicting. Even the official video shows 2 different ways to install the floor - one left to right and the other right to left. It's maddening.

If some of you are scratching your heads over how to accomplish clicking on 2 sides, you are not alone. What I finally discovered via a lot of trial and error and careful reading is:
1. Go left to right, but put the tongue towards the wall, and the groove to the outside - that is, point the groove towards the direction that you are laying the floor.
2. After you lay the first row and start the second, stand on the first row and first plank of the second row, weight it, or lean on it really hard. If you put your back to the starting wall, it's easier to get the angles right. 
3. Here's the counter-intuitive part. The piece that you are installing goes under the planks that are in place on both tongued sides. Slide the short end under the existing short end at a very slight angle. Then, you have to sort of hold that angle and really firmly slide the long end tongue of the piece in your hand under the edge of the piece against your wall (which hopefully you are standing on). Practice before you ever start to lay your floor until you get the hang of it.

Worked for me. Hopefully this will save someone some grief if you are like me and are trying to do this without any practical experience whatsoever, and are lamenting the complete lack of information and instructions that are out there.

Now... if anyone has advice on how to get these suckers under a doorjamb on a 'finishing' side, I would be grateful.

Tara


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## FloorPro

You have to undercut door jambs... It just looks more professional... They make an undercut saw for about 10 bucks u can use... Im also hoping you bought a tapping block... It makes installation alot easier as well as a pull bar... A pull bar is used when you are near a wall or door jamb and you need to click two pieces together... U smack the pull bar with a hammer and it draws the laminate together...


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## FloorPro

Im sorry, I thought you were using laminate... Yeah Ultra around door jambs can be tricky and it helps if you come to a door jamb to start at the jamb even if it means installing in the opposite left to right fashion as you have been... Once u work past the jamb then resume installing the way you started...


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## tara8595

Yeah, no matter what way I go, I will have jambs to deal with. I have an L shaped room with outside doors on front and back of house and a door to another room in the same direction as front door. Then at 90 deg to that, I have a bathroom door on one side of the hall and laundry and closet doors on the other side. Either direction I go, I'm going to have to face the jamb issue on my finishing side.

So still - I have no idea how to accomplish this even once I cut the jambs. Can I tap to slide it from one end like I've read people do with laminate? or will that hurt the vinyl?

I'm not sure how I would install in the opposite direction. Can you give me more detail? I really appreciate the advice. If nothing else, I'll probably just 'bang it in with a hammer' and hope for the best, which is what friends are telling me to do. Would that work?:no:


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## FloorPro

If all else fails and you cant get it in, then take ur knife and slowly and carefully shave the locking joint down on the plank... It will make it easier to snap in... You could always use some adhesive in the joint to supplement the part u shaved down... Keep in mind that this isnt the right way, but it will probably work for u


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## KErnest

@FloorPro I am looking at the Allure Ultra for our kitchen and laundry room. Our contractor recommended this since we wanted the look of wood but the ease of vinyl. We have a dog, 60lbs, a cat with back claws and a 5 month old daughter with future children in the plan. Do you feel this will be ok for our home? I am starting to hear of issues with scratching revealing the white marks. I appreciate your input


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## FloorPro

First of all, any floor you go with can be scratched, scuffed, gouged, etc... With that being said, the Ultra product is very durable... Im not sure what the white marks are... The Ultra has a black vinyl core thats thick and durable... Ultra should be a durable enough floor for what you need... Scuffs or marks can be removed off any Allure product with a Scotch Brite pad and the Allure polisher that you can buy with the floor...


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## KErnest

Thank you FloorPro, I appreciate the help Does anyone have photos of Allure Ultra? The photos on Home Depots site aren't very realistic of my house so I was hoping to see some more natural photos.


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## jimp

Hello...considering the Allure Ultra flooring for Dining Room and Kitchen. After removing carpeting and tiles in DR I noticed the tiles were installed using cut-back...an oil based "glue" which is not removable in its entirety. I'm somewhat skeptical about the thin set in the kitchen as the glue responds to warm water easier than chemicals. I would like to place the Ultra flooring over both. The floors are level and smooth, trowel ridges in cutback can barely be felt, rooms square. In the DR, I have removed the carpet tack strips which left small holes against the wall as well as the "entry" between DR and kitchen. I was told by sales person at HD that nothing needed to be done with these holes and could lay Ultra flooring on top w/out problem. I guess the basic question is if I need/must do anything to the floor I'm installing the Ultra upon as long as it is completely clean and free of any grit, sand, dust, dry wall remnants, etc.? And, how in the world do you paint and install molding later w/out ruining the new flooring? Please advise and thank you.


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## rusty baker

Molding over vinyl fllooring, (1/4 rd also known as shoe molding) is to be fastened to the wall not the floor. You paint it first, then touch up the nail holes after.


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## jimp

*thanks...*

I should have mentioned I'll be using a high molding, mostly for cosmetic reasons (hiding the removed 2 1/2"...I figured too much sanding/spackle and the room is large enough, i think, for a taller molding. I think I can do that without quarter round. But pretty clever painting and then touching up nails...thank you.


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## curiousburke

I'm thinking of installing this throughout my apartment, about 1000sq ft, but I'm wondering how it feels when you walk on it. I think tile over concrete feels very hard, much more so than wood. Is that the case here or will it have the feel of normal wood or laminate?

This would be my first floor laying (except a small foyer with self adhesive tiles), is it an okay choice?


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## jimp

By golly, I'm just a beginner, but I did buy the flooring yesterday...haven't installed yet. I did read somewhere that putting an underlayment beneath this flooring voids the warranty. I like it because it's waterproof and is a loose-lay/floating floor--NO GLUE. I know it will have a softer feel than ceramic/porcelain/stone tile but it's not like wood or laminate--not sure how to compare but I bet it'd hardly be noticable if at all...it's been described and seems more like a stiff rubber/acrylic; the 47.5 length sheets are flexible. I'm walking on bare concrete now and I'm pretty sure it'll be softer than that. Really like how it looks...at least in the box and displays and pictures. Jury's out on how it looks on my floor...gotta get it in first...looks fairly easy though.


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## FloorPro

Yeah you dont want to use an underlayment under the Ultra... You can use vapor barrier ( 3.5 or 6 mill plastic) if you want tho for extra water protection considering its on concrete...


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## curiousburke

curiousburke said:


> I think tile over concrete feels very hard, much more so than wood. Is that the case here or will it have the feel of normal wood or laminate?


oops, I meant vinyl tile, not ceramic tile.

what do you think FloorPro, how does the feel compare to wood? I have a toddler that has no problem falling on a wood floor, will it be the same?


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## FloorPro

Ultra will be softer than ceramic and will be warmer to a point...


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## FloorPro

It will be a nice floor for you...


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## LOUIE123

*Temp.*

can the allure ultra be used ibn a room that is not going to be heated or cooled? temps from zero to 100 degrees?


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## curiousburke

FloorPro, or anyone else that has experience with multiple products, how does Ultra compare to products like Adura?


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## mork

@FloorPro - again, thank you for all of your comments regarding the Allure Ultra product. I met with a flooring specialist at The Home Depot today. He told me that while Allure Ultra is a floating floor, it is vinyl and as a result no gap is required (instructions suggest 1/8") around the edges, at a transition or at a door track as there will be no expansion/contraction. He said to just lay a narrow bead of caulk at the transition. Can you please comment on this? Thank you.


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## rusty baker

That is the problem with the "flooring specialists" at Home Depot. If the instructions say to leave a gap, leave a gap.


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## rocky12179

*Alure Ultra thoughout our whole house*

Unless I missed it, I didn't see anything in this post about installing Alure Ultra in multiple rooms. Can I start in one room go through the door way and continue in the next room without any seams? Can the Alure Ultra be laid from both sides? For example, if I start in one room, then lay down the hallway, can it be laid from the back side of the plank to do another room on the same side of the house?


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## masteratnone

*Cabinets - on top?*

I'm settled on using Allure Ultra on my shop floor. I have two cabinets (125 to 150 lbs each). Should I lay the floor under them or lay the floor around them? I'd like to lay the floor under them as I sometimes have to move them out of the way for a project.


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## duke m

allure pro said:


> Hi All - I am sorry you have had some troubles getting info on the Allure Ultra. It is new and not all HD stores have been trained on the product yet. Here are the installation instructions and FAQs for the Allure Ultra.


Why don't they just put the "click" technology on the stuff with the glue strip? It's just molded on there, right? Seems like it would solve every problem mentioned with this stuff.

'


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## jjmcd

*installation questions*

I've spend some time reading the posts here and I've found them helpful.. Thank you to all the experts out there helping us novices.

I just purchased the Allure Ultra product and I've spent some time reading about the installation. I'm trying to figure out the "nuts and bolts" of the installation before I start the install. I may be coming back with lots of questions.

Question 1: My first question has been asked on this site already, but I really don't like the answer. I'm hoping there is another idea out there. It's the door jam question. It's a floating floor and the edge is supposed to be covered by molding. When the plank buts up against the door jam, there is nothing to overhang over the edge of the plank and the edge is visible. The previous solution was to put in some caulk or silicone. Is there another option? I was already intending to put a small bead of silicone all the way around the perimeter, but I don't want to see the edge.

Question 2: I’ve seen it recommended that the planks should run the length of a room. However, I’m wondering which is better for the resiliency of the product where it comes to an external door? Should the planks be orientated perpendicular or parallel to the front door where there will not be an overhang as in my question 1 above? There will be a fair amount (no matter how careful I am) of water, snow, and sand coming in through this door. If there is damage at this horizontal edge of the plank, replacing a single plank would be better than if the short edge of the plank is in contact with the door jam. Any suggestions or opinions? 

Question 3: Has anyone put a layer of sheet plastic down under the planks as has been suggested here? Does this make the planks more or less likely to move around? I currently have ugly peel and stick tile on the floor. My original thought was to install the planks over this linoleum tile. However, I now think I need to scrape this stuff off the floor so that the planks can fit underneath the front door as it opens. Right now, it's a tight squeeze. I also read the instructions manual and it recommends a “non rubber” floor mat at the front door to protect the floor from tracked in dirt and sand. After this linoleum stuff is scraped off, the floor is just MDF wood. I don’t trust this stuff by itself without having some type of extra waterproofing layer. A water leak around my water heater is what has caused this whole issue to begin with. The MDF wood gets just a little wet and warps like a sponge. 

Question 4: I know that the floor is supposed to float. However, there are a couple of places where the floor needs to be anchored down. My question has to do with if it is better to anchor it along the horizontal edge of the plank or anchor it along the short edge of the plank. One of the rooms where this is being installed is in a kitchen where there is a stair leading up into the kitchen (stair without a door so a threshold won’t do it). The edges of the steps will have a screwed down metal step edge and this edge will also be used where the stair enters the room. Should the planks be orientated parallel or perpendicular to the steps? The other place where the planks will be anchored is where I have a built-in bench in a breakfast nook. The bench is built in the feet of the bench will rest on top of the planks. In this case, I don’t think it matters which way the planks are orientated. 

That’s it for now. Thanks in advance to any words of advice given.


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## rusty baker

No 1, you can undercut the door frames.

No 3, see what the manufacturer says about plastic underneath, and if you decide to take up the tiles, be aware that the tiles and adhesive might contain asbestos.
No 4, it will buckle if anchored.


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## FreddyF

*Thoughts on this installation?*

We are looking at putting this flooring in our lake cabin. The cabin will be a year-round home and will be heated to 40*F in the winter. We have looked at the Ultra Allure due to claims of being resiliant and waterproof. And, with being at the lake, we are sure to have some moisture coming in at times especially during the summer months (and some snow-mix during the winter). 

The cabin is built upon a (floating) concrete slab no less than 4in thick. On top of the concrete, there are tiles that we believe to be asbestos. Glued to those tiles is a thin, indoor/outdoor carpet of sorts. We are thinking about installing the Ultra Allure ontop the carpet. Thoughts on our plan??


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## gonz4

I have a mud room floor that is part concrete slab and part plywood. can a heated floorig mat system be used under the allure ultra?


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## dbarc

*Allure Ultra Plank smell?*

We have had this floor in for a few days. Looks great, installed easily, there is still a faint chemical smell. How long before this goes away? I called the manufacturer and they said it passed LEEDS sustainability and California certification testing, and that the smell should go away in a couple weeks.


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## jlsolley

*Dude, you didn't read the question.*



rusty baker said:


> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/d0/d0c0bf10-7dd2-47ca-9459-577a22eeeb65.pdf


He was asking about the Ultra product that's click together, not the regular Allure product that uses sticky strips.


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## tara8595

*Some comments/what I've learned*

Rocky - you can lay the floor both ways. It's easier to do it with the tongue out in the direction you're going, but I laid it back into a closet in the opposite direction with no trouble. In some instances though, you might cut all your pieces, then just lay it all in the same direction.

Feel: I've just finished laying (and re-laying) my floor in kitchen and breakfast nook and it feels really great to walk on. Softer than wood and softer than my old sheet vinyl floor. Very slick though - never use it on stairs. My 4 yo has fallen down several times and it's only been in for about a week. I imagine it will rough up over time as it is inevitably scratched - though we even mistakenly hit it with the utility knife over the course of installation, and it didn't show in most cases. You really would have to try to scratch the floor for it to show.

Some lessons learned/advice.... 
-not "the easiest floor" - whoever came up with that slogan obviously never installed it. 
-It *is* easy to score and snap. 
-If you're a newbie like me, you will tear your hands up and your hands and wrists will be killing you each night that you work for a few hours. 
-If it's your first time working with the floor you *will* be pulling it up at least once and having to put it back down because gaps will mysteriously appear where you thought it was locked.... any slight 1/16 gap will eventually turn into 1/8 or more, so get it right the first time. 
-You have to constantly lock and re-lock and re-lock and re-lock the planks along the horizontal edge that you are working, especially if you have any slight sag to your floor, cause if you don't, there'll be gaps and you'll have to pull it all up and re-lay it (see above).
-door jambs are not as much of a problem as I thought they'd be. I bought a jamb saw and cut them all, and used a couple of mini-crowbars to pull the pieces into place -actually these were invaluable tools throughout the project, couldn't have done it without them, especially along finishing edges.
-It took me about 1 row per hour in an average size kitchen due to vents, cabinets, corners, learning curve, etc.
-After all is done - and it was TOUGH.... I'm still glad I did it, and though it was terribly frustrating and I wouldn't want to do it again, I'm happy with the end result, and it looks and feels great.


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## tara8595

*Question about trim*

So... my floor is down, now to put back my cleaned and newly stained shoe molding and quarter round..... Someone said that we should nail it into the wall. What about into baseboards? We have baseboards and the floor is about 1/8" from those all around. It is *really* hard to nail the trim into the baseboards - is that what we're supposed to do though? Or are we supposed to just go in at an angle into the subfloor via the gap that is there?

Rusty? FloorPro? help!

Oh, and if anyone wants to see my pictures (the good and the bad), go here: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Allure-Resilient-Flooring/139124616117162


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## steve4king

Tara, unless I'm misunderstanding it is expected that you remove baseboards prior to installing the flooring, after the flooring is installed 1/8" from the sheetrock/wall you would reinstall baseboard/molding by attaching it directly to the wall, as your baseboard was. If you like the look of molding on top of your baseboard, go for it, but you'll want to attach it to the baseboard not the subfloor. We used glue instead of nails when installing cove base commercially.. dunno why you couldn't use liquid nails or something like that to attach your molding.


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## anemoi

*Allure--not the Ultra*



FloorPro said:


> I am only going on the 50 or 60 jobs Ive installed without issues... Ive had a few issues with the regular Allure though, but nothing that couldnt be worked out...


I'd like to hear from FloorPro on this as you've said you've installed both the regular Allure and the Allure Ultra. I sure hope I haven't purchased the wrong product for the kitchen which I'm expecting to use a wet mop on. I purchased the sticky strip (regular) Allure, but haven't attempted installation yet. 

1) Will this product hold up to a wet mop? Have you had any issues with kitchens and wet mops for those you've installed this product for? (Is it simply a matter of not "drenching" the floor with water and using just a damp mop?)
2) Would using a heavy roller help the floor adhere better?
3) Would you comment on some of the issues of the regular Allure (you say you've encountered) and enlighten me on how you worked them out?

It's rather daunting to hear about buckling, etc., so any help you can give would be greatly appreciated so I know what I'm getting into.

Appreciate your thoughts!
:001_unsure:


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## tara8595

*Floor gaps*

So... 5 days after posting the above, there are some gaps showing. Again. Unfortunately this time, I have to remove trim that I've already put down, so I can pull up the floor. Again. Dammit. At this point, I would NOT recommend this floor to anyone, unless you know for a fact, you've got 100% flat surface to lay it on. Even the slightest bow will not allow your floor to properly lock, and then a few days after you think you're 'done', your gaps will show, and who knows what would happen if left that way? This sucks. I really wanted it to work out too - where it does lock, I really like it, but what a royal pain otherwise. Oh, and my house was built in the 90's, so it's not that old. I can't imagine any house wouldn't have a slight sag towards the middle of their kitchen floor from foot traffic.


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## steve4king

Tara, I'm curious whether TrafficMaster has some approved method to tack the boards together that will not void the warranty. If I were you, I might consider a semi-flexible adhesive in the joints and hope that it would not affect a warranty claim. If you have removed and reconnected the joints several times now, I would expect that the locking keys would be broken/worn and not function as well as intended. I'm also curious how much this floor can really expand/contract with the temperature.. perhaps you could get away with tacking just the edges to the subfloor to prevent it from working it's way apart. Does anyone know if there are engineering docs that define the expansion statistics? If it's a variance of .025 inches per ft.. that's not going to work.. but if it less than .005 inches per foot, you could probably get away with it on a small floor without worry of buckling or splitting.


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## tara8595

So... ugh... a word to all novices - when they say you can't install this over a floor that isn't level to within 1/8" over 4 feet, they mean it. And looking at the floor and thinking "Looks level to me!" doesn't cut it. 

After the fact, I've realized in the center of both sides of my room (divided by counter and sink), is actually about a 9/16 sag in my floors. ARGH!!! That means it's my own fault dammit! (Although.... no instructions come in the boxes anyhow, so I could blame Halstead I guess) Lesson - measure and level before you buy. So.... what to do.... 

I will yet again, carefully take up my floor putting my cut pieces in piles in order by row and my uncut pieces in piles all in my office, go to a box store and buy some self-leveling compound that is able to be used over my old sheet vinyl, rent the mixer, pour it into the sags, trowel it out, re-measure and once I get it level, re-lay the floor... for the THIRD time.

If it comes apart after that I'm going freakin' ballistic. I'm so sick of messing with this floor and it's my own fault!


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## rhonda trammell

anemoi said:


> I'd like to hear from FloorPro on this as you've said you've installed both the regular Allure and the Allure Ultra. I sure hope I haven't purchased the wrong product for the kitchen which I'm expecting to use a wet mop on. I purchased the sticky strip (regular) Allure, but haven't attempted installation yet.
> 
> 1) Will this product hold up to a wet mop? Have you had any issues with kitchens and wet mops for those you've installed this product for? (Is it simply a matter of not "drenching" the floor with water and using just a damp mop?)
> 2) Would using a heavy roller help the floor adhere better?
> 3) Would you comment on some of the issues of the regular Allure (you say you've encountered) and enlighten me on how you worked them out?
> 
> It's rather daunting to hear about buckling, etc., so any help you can give would be greatly appreciated so I know what I'm getting into.
> 
> Appreciate your thoughts!
> :001_unsure:


If you haven't put it down yet take it back it comes up faster than it goes down. Get a refund and go with some other flooring I have 2100.00 in my floor it looks really bad and I filed a warranty claim and they tell me every week someone is going to come to inspect for a refund but not one comes but judging from what I have read today on web if they do come you still will not get a refund.


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## mommiemara

This flooring has caught my attention for my living room. We have a pool and the kids come in wet through the sliding glass door so I worried about real wood. Add a dog and 3 cats and while I want the look of wood I need something tough. My concern is along on wall I have a brink fireplace. There is a brick type bench that comes off the fireplace so there is no molding there How would I hide the egde to allow for that expansion gap? I can't put a thin strip there to cover without nailing it to the floor because we are talking about brick so I can't nail anything to that. Also how would I hide the edge by the sliding glass door and my living room you step down into it so I would also have to hide the edge around the step. Fun part the step is rounded. Any thoughts? Thanks


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## Bobbimcgee

We are installing Trafficmaster Allure Ultra planks in a living and dining room that has a step down from the dining to livingroom. I can't seem to find a product to use on the edge of the step. Both parts of the step would be covered in the Allure Ultra floor planks. Any suggestions of what to use? Color is the Vintage Oak Cinnamon.


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## janiner

I'm just starting the research part of our flooring project... please bear with me I have a *lot* of questions!

We live in a home that was built in 2003, and had the cheapest builder flooring installed. We have four different flooring types - carpet, sheet vinyl, ceramic tile and something they call "engineered wood". From what I understand it's very thin strips of real wood, maple in our case, glued to the same base as a laminate floor.

The only areas of the floor that are not having trouble is the vinyl sheet. The carpet is stained and worn, the tile grout is dirty and cannot be cleaned, and the wood has been grooved to death by our dog's nails (two 35 lb Shelties). My plan is to replace every bit of flooring in the house with something more durable, and right now Allure Ultra is looking like a good choice.

I don't know what the subfloors are made of. The second floor is probably some sort of wood, the first floor could be concrete. There is no basement. There should not be a moisture problem, even though we're in Western Oregon aka The Land of Rain, because there's a large crawl space under the entire house.

I have come to Allure Ultra via a process of elimination. We can't do hardwood or carpet because of the pets (2 dogs, 4 cats). I *hate* ceramic tile. From what I have read, we would have to spend more than we can afford to get a laminate sturdy enough that the dogs would not easily scratch it, and it tends to be cold, hard and slippery. The slightly textured vinyl Allure seems like a good product for us. I know there are some horror stories here, but there are some about every type of flooring, so I'm trying not to let them scare me away just yet.

I found out about Allure because I know two people who have used the sticky kind and love it. That is clearly a pretty temperamental product, and it's either going to work for you or not, with no apparent rhyme or reason. I'm hoping the Ultra will be both sturdier and a little more reliable. Still, whatever we use we will do just one room initially and see how it holds up.

Ok, my questions (the first batch, anyway), in totally random order:

- what do you do for the stairs? I have read that it's not recommended for stairs, and someone in this thread said they tried it and it was very slippery. But carpeted stairs would look odd, I would think.
- how bad is the color mis-match between runs? As I said, we want to do one room first to see how it does, and I don't think we can afford to buy 2000+ square feet of the stuff all at once anyway.
- the engineered wood in the kitchen was laid before the cabinets and appliances were put in, so we will have to cut it out. Any suggestions on how best to do this?
- I understand that you remove the baseboards, lay the Allure Ultra 1/8" away from the sheetrock, and then replace the baseboards. What do you along a sliding glass door or other place where there is no baseboard?
- how difficult is it to replace a damaged plank? This is another of the drawbacks with laminate, if the dogs did make a bad scratch it would be almost impossible to replace.
- is there a quality (or any other) difference between the in-stock colors and the special-order colors? Or between the colors that are $2.97/sq ft and those that are $3.27?
- my local Lowe's carries a similar product from Armstrong, but it's not on their website. Has anyone else seen this product and compared it to Allure Ultra?
- I have read the installation instructions from Home Depot that someone kindly posted here, but there is still a lot I don't understand. I imagine that you want to keep all the planks in the house going in the same direction generally, but it also seems like there would be times you would want to do it the other way (bathrooms, closets) to avoid working with a million tiny pieces. Is there a good reference out there to learn about the basics of flooring installation, the stuff that's not specific to this product?
- everyone seems to find it difficult to cut with a utility knife - is there a reason to not use an electric chop saw?
- last but not least - is there another product I should consider for this project?

Thanks in advance to anyone who wades through this and responds!


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## rusty baker

With 2 dogs and 4 cats, no flooring will last more than a few years. The animals will scratch the allure ultra. Whoever installed the ceramic, probably did not seal the grout. A pro can fix the grout problem. Felt backed sheet vinyl is the product that will last longest with your pets.


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## janiner

rusty baker said:


> With 2 dogs and 4 cats, no flooring will last more than a few years. The animals will scratch the allure ultra. Whoever installed the ceramic, probably did not seal the grout. A pro can fix the grout problem. Felt backed sheet vinyl is the product that will last longest with your pets.


I'm sure you're right, but I don't want the whole house to look like a bathroom!  I'm not looking for 100% scratch-free, but I don't want to repeat the deep grooves they have made in the engineered wood. That product is too soft, apparently. It seemed like Allure would show the scratches less than laminate, since there's no smooth shiny surface to be broken through.

FWIW, I ordered some samples from Home Depot and just took a ballpoint pen to one of them - I was not able to scratch it at all. I will try again at some point with a key; I haven't found a laminate sample yet that I could not scratch with a key.

I'd still love to have answers to my other questions if anyone has the time!


----------



## keithl1967

So, I guess the question after reading this thread--has anyone NOT had a hard time with this product?

I am looking to install in my basement (I need something waterproof, just in case)...

I really like the look of the product, and its warranty, but I do not wan tot have to pull up and reinstall multiple times--I am looking at over 900 sf, and will have a pool table reinstalled over it (making it impossible to pull up and re-install) once it is down...


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## mommiemara

I'm eyeballing the Armstrong product and looking into others at this point. Mu HD had an open box and I tried to put a few pieces together and it was a PIA IMO. Not to mention I just feel like it has a very unnatural shine to it. So my quest for the right flooring continues.


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## keithl1967

Anyone used the Lowe's "Swiftlock" product--it looks very similar to the Allure Ultra, but appears ot have a better interlock system?


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## Bobbimcgee

janiner, you and I seem to have the same situation with pets. We had porcelain tile installed in most of the house. I used http://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BPS...uart/dp/B00065W8G8/ref=cm_pdp_rev_itm_title_2 to seal the light colored grout. It was a pain to apply, but seems to be holding up very well so far. We're using the Trafficmaster Allure Ultra for the dining and living rooms. It's being installed right now. 

This product is very hard to damage. I tried gouging a sample with a key and had to use a lot of strength to even make a mark on it. I think it will be fine with my dogs. Keeping their nails trimmed will probably also help. I'm impressed with the surface and I love the way it looks. If you're concerned, get a sample of buy a single plank and see if you can damage it. I think you'll be impressed.

We had stairs to consider also. We finally decided to leave them carpeted. The carpeting is an off-white color and the porcelain tile in the entryway where they're located is light, so they don't really look out of place. We considered the noise (echo) of putting tile on them and the fact that they would be more slippery. Our installer said that it was a pain to put tile on stairs. The trim pieces for the edges of the stairs was VERY expensive. That must be how tile suppliers make their money, on the trim pieces.


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## rusty baker

janiner said:


> I'm sure you're right, but I don't want the whole house to look like a bathroom!  !


 There are some IVC wood grain sheet vinyls that look real.


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## seamus Mc

keithl1967 said:


> So, I guess the question after reading this thread--has anyone NOT had a hard time with this product?
> 
> I am looking to install in my basement (I need something waterproof, just in case)...
> 
> I really like the look of the product, and its warranty, but I do not wan tot have to pull up and reinstall multiple times--I am looking at over 900 sf, and will have a pool table reinstalled over it (making it impossible to pull up and re-install) once it is down...


Same here (pool table) I am going to install a sub floor first, prob. Tyroc.
Only want to do it once.


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## Bobbimcgee

We had someone install ours in a dining room over a concrete slab floor. He didn't seem to have any problem putting it in. He used a power saw to cut it since we have bay windows and a few weird angles. We didn't put in any sub flooring in. I'm amazed at how much this looks like wood.


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## seamus Mc

With all the grinding and prep work I've done I would be really  if the top finished floor failed me! Thanks to all posters. 
I'm still not sure what product to go with.


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## PorgyLuvzBess

I installed Allure Traffic master flooring in my basement because it looked good and was advertised as waterproof and easy to install. 

The install was easy when compared to laying tile, but it was still work. Those planks dont break as easy as they say. 

My basement does get water when we get bad rain (crack in my foundation I think) so the floor began to pop up. But guess what, it started doing this before it got wet and in areas where there was no water. 

So, after a year of dealing with it and being angry I am in the process of taking it all up and laying tile. I already did one half of my basement with slate. Wish I did this from the start. 

In my opinion: Allure seems easier and in some cases cheaper than tile, but in the end....you get what you pay for.


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## tpolk

your billiard table has to have no flex under it- ever


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## seamus Mc

PorgyLuvzBess said:


> I installed Allure Traffic master flooring in my basement because it looked good and was advertised as waterproof and easy to install.
> 
> The install was easy when compared to laying tile, but it was still work. Those planks dont break as easy as they say.
> 
> My basement does get water when we get bad rain (crack in my foundation I think) so the floor began to pop up. But guess what, it started doing this before it got wet and in areas where there was no water.
> 
> So, after a year of dealing with it and being angry I am in the process of taking it all up and laying tile. I already did one half of my basement with slate. Wish I did this from the start.
> 
> In my opinion: Allure seems easier and in some cases cheaper than tile, but in the end....you get what you pay for.


Cracks / water UNDER tiles = popped tiles. Be careful!
Fix that first.


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## ttr13r

Bobbimcgee said:


> janiner, you and I seem to have the same situation with pets. We had porcelain tile installed in most of the house. I used http://www.amazon.com/StoneTech-BPS...uart/dp/B00065W8G8/ref=cm_pdp_rev_itm_title_2 to seal the light colored grout. It was a pain to apply, but seems to be holding up very well so far. We're using the Trafficmaster Allure Ultra for the dining and living rooms. It's being installed right now.
> 
> This product is very hard to damage. I tried gouging a sample with a key and had to use a lot of strength to even make a mark on it. I think it will be fine with my dogs. Keeping their nails trimmed will probably also help. I'm impressed with the surface and I love the way it looks. If you're concerned, get a sample of buy a single plank and see if you can damage it. I think you'll be impressed.
> 
> We had stairs to consider also. We finally decided to leave them carpeted. The carpeting is an off-white color and the porcelain tile in the entryway where they're located is light, so they don't really look out of place. We considered the noise (echo) of putting tile on them and the fact that they would be more slippery. Our installer said that it was a pain to put tile on stairs. The trim pieces for the edges of the stairs was VERY expensive. That must be how tile suppliers make their money, on the trim pieces.


If you end up using the Allure Ultra, go to homedepot.com then to flooring, then to vinyl plank. Somewhere in there you should be able to find a very good installing/warranty/maintainence info thingy...everything you want or need to know about this floor. One HUGE thing about any of the Allure; don't rollerblade on it, use those protecters for the feet of your furniture and also do not use an office chair that has roller wheels. Never use mop and glow or anything else on it. Even Armstrong Once and Done. Also remember, this floor is not a permanent thing. The warranty for the grip-strip is 25yr residential/for the ultra I believe is 10 yr. This is a new product, 3-4 yrs? Not so tried and true yet. It's very pretty though! I work at Home Depot, used to love this floor, but there have been some problems such as the things I mentioned. Mostly, the company who makes it should be helpful (customer service) I can help if you have any need for that too.


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## Bobbimcgee

ttr13r said:


> Also remember, this floor is not a permanent thing. The warranty for the grip-strip is 25yr residential/for the ultra I believe is 10 yr. This is a new product, 3-4 yrs? Not so tried and true yet. It's very pretty though! I work at Home Depot, used to love this floor, but there have been some problems such as the things I mentioned. Mostly, the company who makes it should be helpful (customer service) I can help if you have any need for that too.


You mention that you work for Home Depot but you aren't sure about the warranty? It says right on the packaging as well as within the packaging and on your own company website that the warranty for the Trafficmaster Allure Ultra is lifetime for residential and 10 years for commercial. I can't imagine why anyone would need to use Mop & Glo on it, but what specific ingredient or chemical is in Mop & Glo which is harmful to this floor? Also, why do you think an office chair on rollers would harm this floor? Do you have documentation from the manufacturer to substantiate this claim?


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## ttr13r

The Allure Ultra just came into the store about 2 weeks ago...it's completely gone now, and we only had 2 pallets. A lot of people here give HD employees all kinds of s*** but, I have been on this site for a little while and I can take it! I do know about Allure, among other products and installations, though, I never claim to know everything, which is why I take the time to be on this site, so cool your jets cowboy! As for the rollers on the chairs, rollerblades, etc, they absolutely will cause marks. Sorry if you didn't care for my answer. Like I said, go to homedepot.com, follow through until you get to the Allure site, and you can pick up a whole slew of info from Halstead on this product which is very helpful.:001_tongue::biggrin: Plus, you'd be amazed at the things people tell me they've done to maintain their floors! (I'm not (too) embarrassed to work at a big box store either)


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## Bobbimcgee

ttr13r said:


> As for the rollers on the chairs, rollerblades, etc, they absolutely will cause marks. Sorry if you didn't care for my answer. Like I said, go to homedepot.com, follow through until you get to the Allure site, and you can pick up a whole slew of info from Halstead on this product which is very helpful.:001_tongue::biggrin: Plus, you'd be amazed at the things people tell me they've done to maintain their floors! (I'm not (too) embarrassed to work at a big box store either)


I'm just asking for specific information to substantate your claims. If there's some secret information that's not showing on my warranty I would like to know about it! Please post a link to the site where the warranty is voided by using a chair with rollers. Also a link where the warranty is voided by using Mop & Glo and which ingredients in this product is harmful to the flooring. (I don't use Mop & Glo but if there are ingredients in it that would void my warranty that might be in other products I would like to know what they are.) I don't see anything on Haltead's site or on Home Depot's site that mentions any of this.


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## ttr13r

You aren't going to find any of this info on the HD website. (i thought it was there) The owners manual I'm talking about can be found by googling "halstead flooring allure. Then find the "pdf Allure Owner Manual Plank.qxd:layout1 on adobe acrobat. The things I told you don't void the warranty.Never said that. But my customers have talked to me about these issues. They are in the section on care and maintainence. Like i said, I love this floor, but honestly? I'm disappointed, and in some cases, I feel bad I recommended it. Allure is new. Ultra, brand new. No rep has come to our store to tell us about it. I learned on my own and I am being honest with you to help you avoid costly mistakes. Regarding the ingredient(s) in Mop & Glow, don't know which one is the culprit, but from what I see, probably the wax. Halstead customer service has been helpful, in some cases. I had a customer who installed the original Allure, voiding the warranty by doing it wrong. I called Halstead, they directed me to have the customer call directly, and refunded him 100% of his money. So, if you do use this flooring, keep your receipt, install per manufacturer directions, and maintain it their way too.:yes:


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## Bobbimcgee

ttr13r said:


> You aren't going to find any of this info on the HD website. (i thought it was there) The owners manual I'm talking about can be found by googling "halstead flooring allure. Then find the "pdf Allure Owner Manual Plank.qxd:layout1 on adobe acrobat. The things I told you don't void the warranty.Never said that.


The document you are referring to is for the regular Allure with the grip strips and a 25 year warranty, not the Allure Ultra which is the subject of this thread. The Trafficmaster Allure Ultra has a lifetime warranty for residential use. 

I did quite a bit of research on this product and other types as well. This product seems to be more durable than most floor coverings out there in this price range. You are correct in that it's a fairly new product. Our Home Depot has only had it for a couple of months and the employees there don't know much about it. A call to the manufacturer turned out to be much more helpful.

We had a contractor install it in two rooms (about 500 sq. ft total) and it took him about 6 hours including replacing the baseboard. He didn't seem to have any problem with the interlocking pieces. I tried putting about 10 planks together prior to having him install it and it seemed pretty easy, but I wasn't cutting any planks, just putting them out in the middle of the room to see what they would look like. They sat there for about 4 days and didn't come apart even though they were walked on. 

Now that it's all installed, it looks beautiful and feels great underfoot. The finish looks great and I can't imagine why anyone would want to put Mop & Glo or any kind of wax on it because it has a beautiful finish. I'm very happy with the results so far.


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## rusty baker

Roller chairs violate the warranty on all vinyl flooring. On some it's considered "abuse". So they don't have to spell it out. Any "abuse" violates the warranty.


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## Belinda Cribbs

(Please forgive my keyboarding on this post. I am wearing a tinge unit on my hand and arm and am poor at spelling and keyboarding at best.) I have the Traficmaster Aallure in my laundry room for 2 yrs. I love it. It does mark a little with my Orick Vacuum but aparrently my housekeeper has found a way to buff out the marks because it looks like new. It was put down by a plumber that never had any experience putting down this type of floor and it has one or two tiny spaces between a coupel of planks but otherwise it is great. I know this is not the type of flooring in question I just wanted to put my 2 cents worth in on that before I say, I too am interested in the new allure ultra. Will it go in ok on my not quiet perfect pressed wood sub floor, and if I need to use floor leveler will it work put down over that. I am very interested in this product because of the 25 year warrrenty ( or is that just for the old style that I already have?).
The cost of flooring with hardwood is prohibitive and in this economy is not going to be a cost I can recover with resale of my property especially in my declining neighborhood. The floor must be replaced so I hoped this would be the answere to durability and beauty.


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## Bobbimcgee

Belinda, the warranty on the Allure Ultra is a lifetime for residential, 10 years for commercial. We had it installed over a concrete slab floor.


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## customerS

*Some issues with Allure ULTRA*

Hi - joined this group just to be able to give feedback about the Allure ULTRA flooring I just finished. I do love it... and would recommend it to others, but Traffic Master has a few things they need to improve on.


1. NO INSTRUCTIONS came with the planks.... not even on the box.
It would be easy to make big mistakes if you don't hunt down all the instructions! 

2. NOT so easy to cut/score with ultility knife! Yes I had new sharp blades. I'm a drummer, my hands are strong... but I pushed down so hard over and over to score it that my hands really hurt after 20 mins. So I tried cutting them with a hack saw, jig saw and chop saw. Ridiculous because it is floppy and made a big mess. Just about to try my friend's table saw, but the Home Depot worker warned me if would melt and ruin the planks.
Back to scoring... I guess the good news is the ULTRA is much thicker and durable.

3. What click? Easy to "think" you got it connected correctly when you don't. I found a few planks had very slight gaps and had to take it apart and start over! 

4. Really hard to connect a side and top piece at the same time. I struggled 10 minutes with each one... you get the plank's top connected and then try to connect the side too... and the top part comes apart again...*!##

5. No matching theshold pieces available.

6. Very wastful - had to use entire planks to put in short pieces against the wall. Had to re-order another box just to put in a few small areas, despite have tons of leftover cut pieces. Take 14 days to get the planks.

7. I have no idea what NOT to do with the finished floor! Can I use commercial cleaning agents? Bleach and water??? They really need to print something to keep for future instructions inside the box.

8. It has a lifetime warrenty... where do we go to replace a plank or two?
I should not have to hunt all over the web to get these instructions.


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## sllane55

*trafficmaster allure ultra planks or tiles*

wiley, you can find the video of the how to put down these planks, on the home depot website, go into flooring,then vinyl and resilient flooring, the find the square that shows the wood look planks, it will say new in the corner of the pic under the pic it will say shop or watch video, it is different, then the ones you watch when your on watch demo those are the glued planks:thumbup:


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## Tamug1998

*Transitions for Allure Ultra to carpet*

I am looking to install allure ultra over some tile in my entryway. It is bordered by carpet on both sides. Are there transition pieces that are sold? If not, does anyone have suggestions on how to transition to carpet?

Thanks!


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## customerS

*transition to carpet from vinyl floor*

Like any other vinyl or wood floor, you need to buy a theshold piece. They come in metal, laminate (matching Pergo type floors) or unvarnished oak. Ask your flooring salesperson to show you were they are.


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## customerS

*Leave some space between floor and wall to avoid pop-ups*

PorgyLuvzBess,

Your Allure flooring (and most others) will pop up if you don't leave some space between it and the wall. You have to leave room for the natural expanding with heat or hot days. AGAIN, they don't send instructions inside the boxes. I really fault them for that.

S


----------------------------------------------------------------



PorgyLuvzBess said:


> My basement does get water when we get bad rain (crack in my foundation I think) so the floor began to pop up. But guess what, it started doing this before it got wet and in areas where there was no water.


----------



## willingtolearn

Hi John, As a female who has had no prior home improvement experience, I am a novice but eager to learn. HD recommended the allure ultra for my basement which currently has vinyl (glue-on type) tiles which are warping in some areas due to plywood subflooring which has become wet in some areas due to excessive rain this season. My questions are 1) is allure ultra appropriate for damp basement conditions (basement has sump pump installed; so does not flood but becomes damp with excessive rain) 2) want to confirm that I need to hire contractor to pull up current flooring and subfloor before installing allure ultra 3) what kind of prep is needed to prevent moisture and mold buildup under the allure ultra? I really appreciate any input you (or others) can provide. Thanks much!


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## customerS

I'm kicking myself for buying the Allure Ultra. After six weeks, gaps are emerging between the planks. Small, but noticible if one is looking....and that means water can get in between those. Second, because of the texture, dirt and other kitchen gooey stuff is getting stuck in them and unless I take a needle or tooth pick... they don't wash out. For the same price, I wish I had bought the high definition sheet vinyl that look like real wood floors. I even could get some tile that were the same price as the Allure Ultra. I think my floor is pretty... but this new product has a lot of faults to work out.


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## seamus Mc

willingtolearn said:


> Hi John, As a female who has had no prior home improvement experience, I am a novice but eager to learn. HD recommended the allure ultra for my basement which currently has vinyl (glue-on type) tiles which are warping in some areas due to plywood subflooring which has become wet in some areas due to excessive rain this season. My questions are 1) is allure ultra appropriate for damp basement conditions (basement has sump pump installed; so does not flood but becomes damp with excessive rain) 2) want to confirm that I need to hire contractor to pull up current flooring and subfloor before installing allure ultra 3) what kind of prep is needed to prevent moisture and mold buildup under the allure ultra? I really appreciate any input you (or others) can provide. Thanks much!


Check out Tyroc subfloor first! I'm going with that soon.

http://www.tyrocinc.com/



customerS said:


> I'm kicking myself for buying the Allure Ultra. After six weeks, gaps are emerging between the planks. Small, but noticible if one is looking....and that means water can get in between those. Second, because of the texture, dirt and other kitchen gooey stuff is getting stuck in them and unless I take a needle or tooth pick... they don't wash out. For the same price, I wish I had bought the high definition sheet vinyl that look like real wood floors. I even could get some tile that were the same price as the Allure Ultra. I think my floor is pretty... but this new product has a lot of faults to work out.


Thanks for the feedback. Sorry about your experience. I'm going with Pergo or a similar laminate on top of Tyroc subfloor.
I would hate to have your problem after stetting the pool table on top!!!


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## willingtolearn

seamus Mc said:


> Check out Tyroc subfloor first! I'm going with that soon.
> 
> http://www.tyrocinc.com/
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. Sorry about your experience. I'm going with Pergo or a similar laminate on top of Tyroc subfloor.
> I would hate to have your problem after stetting the pool table on top!!!


Thank you so much for the response. Will check out tyroc subfloor and will share my experience after all this is done!


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## tara8595

*Still not right*

I started working on this floor last spring. It's now October, and my floor still isn't done. Not for lack of trying. After pulling up the floor twice and realizing that I had sags in my floor over the recommended amount, I talked to folks at halstead and at Home Depot, and they recommended filling the sags with self-leveling compound. So we tried that. 

It was a disaster. That stuff is really difficult to work with. We poured, scraped/sanded/grinded, etc. Poured again. Still not right. The issue is that unless you cover the entire floor, you don't know the liquid volume of the sag. So you're either going to have too much or not enough, and either way, it sets up a vicious cycle of re-do.

Here's the bottom line. Check your floor with a straight edge. If you have a sag/depression in your floor, don't even think about putting this in by yourself. Hire someone to level your floor first, or go with sheet vinyl. It is not worth having your house a wreck for 8 months while you figure it out. And even if you start out with a level floor, unless it's concrete with no give, this floor will fail by design. Just don't do it.


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## UMLBB10

Bobbimcgee said:


> We had a contractor install it in two rooms (about 500 sq. ft total) and it took him about 6 hours including replacing the baseboard. He didn't seem to have any problem with the interlocking pieces. I tried putting about 10 planks together prior to having him install it and it seemed pretty easy, but I wasn't cutting any planks, just putting them out in the middle of the room to see what they would look like. They sat there for about 4 days and didn't come apart even though they were walked on.
> 
> Now that it's all installed, it looks beautiful and feels great underfoot. The finish looks great and I can't imagine why anyone would want to put Mop & Glo or any kind of wax on it because it has a beautiful finish. I'm very happy with the results so far.


 Bobbimcgee - I was hoping for an update on the floor. no issues a few months later? I just purchased the Allure Ultra and will be installing this week. after reading all the reviews here I'm a little nervous about it not staying together.


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## KinNorth

Only poly as underlayment on my concrete basement floor? (It's very dry and in very good condition.)

I have three wishes:

One, to deaden any of that tapping noise I've heard on wood over concrete floors caused by seemingly even the slightest bit of plank/laminate lift or drycore board or other underlay float. 

Two, to gain even the slightest bit of thermal break between the floor and the planks. (when it's minus 30 or worse outside I hate not being able to warm up my feet.  )

Three, ever so slightly soften the hardness of the feel of vinyl on concrete.


So would that very thin sheet rubber "shower liner" also work? (It's available in large rolls.)

Or, would moderately thick "landscape fabric" work? (That fuzzy side might make a bit of a difference) ...and the breathability might prevent spills from being trapped under the planks.

Note, I do plan to carefully level, scrape, sweep and vacuum my basement floor.


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## Hippity-Hop

Allure Ultra is manufactured in China, imported by the marketeer Halstead International, and is distributed exclusively by Home Depot.

Like others who have posted here and elsewhere on the web, my Allure Ultra planks did NOT come with instructions for installation and maintenance.  Fortunately though, there are two similar <.pdf> documents available on the web; one published by Home Depot and the other by Halstead International. Nobody should attempt to install this product before carefully going over the numerous technical details covered in those docs.  Unfortunately both docs fail to address a few crucial questions, but are still a must-read !

Neither doc advises how best to narrow the width of a (usually final) row.  Score and snap is OK for shortening the length of a plank, but that technique is impossible for making full length planks narrower. As of this writing I'm surprised that nobody else has yet pointed out this daunting problem, as Allure Ultra's predominately vinyl composition is too tough and gummy to be cut with a circular saw without loading the gullets between teeth. Imagine cutting a total row length of 15' or more with aviation snips??? I would like to see available a dedicated circular saw blade that is expressly designed for cutting Allure Ultra.

And there is no advice as how best to install the final row of the room area.  Considering that the wall trim will be no more than 5/8" wide, you cannot leave a wall clearance margin wider than 5/8". Moreover, since a plank's tongue protrudes 1/4", that clearance margin is at most only 5/8" - 1/4" = 3/8" until the plank is inserted into the next-to-last row. So the crux of the problem is: jamming your fingers into that 3/8" space in order to pull those last planks back to snap into the previous row.

:thumbsup: TIP #1: Because of the unavoidable awkwardness and reduced grip (and reduced force) that you can exert during the final row in the room, lubricate the mating parts. So for that final row use a small squirt bottle filled with 90% isopropyl alcohol (available at drug stores) to wet the tongues. Vinyl is impervious to alcohol, and with time it will completely evaporate away.

The choice of floor cleaner for Allure Ultra is divided. According to Halstead International use "nonrinsing, nonpowdered, nonsoap, no residue". According to Home Depot use either mineral spirits or their Allure One Step.

:thumbsup: TIP #2: Here again is where the 90% isopropyl alcohol comes in handy. Just squirt it from a squeeze (not pump) bottle or fill your Swiffer WetJet bottle with it.

Scoring and snapping across the 7 1/2" widths is laborious even for someone with a strong a grip as myself (weight lifter and former college wrestler). With a sharp knife blade it takes me about (10) initial strokes of light pressure followed by an additional (20-30) heavy strokes to adequately score it. Yet it still cannot snap off completely.  

:thumbsup: TIP #3: You can only snap it so that it hangs down 90-degrees. Anticipating that to happen, do it over the edge of a high bench, such as a table or the footboard of a bedframe. And keep your knife near you, because immediately afterwards you you must cut thru the last remaining (bottom) section of the thickness with a single stroke of the knife. It is easiest to hold down the already snapped plank on the bench with one hand while drawing the knife toward you with the other hand with the blade at about 45-degrees from horizontal.

I can't stress enough how important it is to assemble it all such that the top surfaces of adjacent planks make continuous contact with each other.  You must not be able to see any small bit of any gray substrate. Otherwise the assembly will not progress correctly and the problem will likely worsen as you continue. 

I was able to use a 1 1/2" dia hole saw to provide neat clearance holes for a hot water radiator's piping and legs, but the saw gullets had to be picked clean about halfway thru each of those (6) operations, because of the poor machinability of vinyl.

I was formerly a manufacturing engineer here in the USA, and I'm disturbingly impressed by the excellent quality control of this Chinese made product. The (7) cases that we ordered for our first installation had amazing uniformity of flatness, edge straightness, and surface finish. And the dimensional tolerances were extremely close. I was particularly concerned about the surface width dimensional control and the tongue-groove fits; both of which were astounding! Moreover, there was not a single cracked or broken piece. And the material is so robust that it is almost impossible to accidentally damage during installation. 

So I'm guessing that the various complaints posted about lifting/gaps at the joints must really be due to improper installation. 

:thumbsup: TIP #4: Thoroughly read the <.pdf> docs published by Home Depot and Halstead International before beginning an Allure Ultra installation !


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## soyarma

*Allure Ultra has been great*

I really have to say that (though I only read the first two, and the last page) my experience with Allure Ultra has been atypically excellent.

My wife and I were looking around at flooring that could go in our finished basement as it does get some minor flooding from time to time (we have more sumps now, but didn't want to put in carpeting without a few years to see how things go) and wanted a flooring that was simple, inexpensive and easy to install. We had several different stores talk to us about a floating floor (anything not glued/fastened down) and the prices were a lot more than we were willing to pay.

Enter Home Depot. Now I used to really have some bad experiences there, but over the last few years my local one (Danvers East) has been really getting good. We were looking at all the flooring and a guy comes up and asks what we were looking for. We explained and he took us over to the Allure Ultra stuff. He explained how it works, and did a demo right there of how you put it together--in his hands, not even putting it on the floor. He explained how to cut it, how to use 1/8 inch spacers and told us where to find the demo installation video on Home Depot's site. 

That was in October, we didn't have it in our budget then to do it, but last week I bought two packs to do a small part of the basement where the carpet was in rough shape (ultimately I'll need another 18 to finish the job).

I also did a small area because I had read some of the comments here and was rather afraid of how poorly this would work. So here's how things went when I got my two boxes.

I opened them up and there were installation manuals. The mention the 'Grip Strip', but I found myself wondering if they just meant the back of the 'boards' because you probably do want to keep those clean so they grip the surface well. The manuals did state on the front that it was for the Ultra product. They also had cleaning and maintenance info as well as installation and tips.

I read the manual and it agreed with the few good stories here and the Home Depot's installation manual. Despite the fact that some folks here had stories of having to score dozens of times, or use a saw, I decided to do a light score (to create a groove for the harder score--so that the blade didn't slip sideways) and then a good hard score. Not pushing with all my might, just a good solid effort.

Picked up the board, supported the longer of the two pieces with my left hand right at the scored point and bent it. Pop! snapped perfectly along the score mark and I sliced the back of the snapped part and voila! I had my cut. Think of how you do the scoring and snapping exactly like you'd do with sheet rock/dry wall. Its about the same effort as 1/2 drywall to snap--pretty much the same process except these boards are a lot easier to deal with that a 4x8 sheet.

I laid down my two boxes and except for me making one mistake with a cut on the wrong end of a board, the process went perfectly. I have no separation after several days, no buckling, nothing bad at all. The only part that can be a bit tricky is when you add a piece that has a side and an end to hook into. If you watch the Home Depot installation video they show good technique for this (http://ext.homedepot.com/video/?bcpid=207606409001&bctid=648249881001)

One other note is that I'm doing a 40 foot by 20 foot area that I all but expect to get wet (flood) before this floor lives out its life. To prepare for that I am not doing a full 40 foot run of the planks, I'm going to break it into 3 sections with a small strip covering the section joints. This way if I need to pull up a part to allow it to dry out I won't have to rip up the whole thing.

Lastly, as to time and effort. I did probably the trickiest part of my basement first and it took me about 45 minutes to lay down two boxes. I expect that once every plank width doesn't require cuts that the whole basement shouldn't take more than 6-8 hours.


----------



## wyllder

*Considering Allure Ultra*

Hello,

I'm a DIY'er with some experience. In our new house I am currently planning a basement remodel and this basement has a decent chance of water at some point. This has the wife spooked and I'm looking for a flooring that will survive minor flooding, which is what has me looking at Allure Ultra.

I'm considering laying this down over either Tyroc or Superseal All-in-one. How much of a concern is breathability?

One thing that bugs me is the posts I'm reading at this website:
http://ottoblotto.blogspot.com/2009/08/allure-flooring-stinks.html

From what I read there this stuff would seem to be just about the worst idea I've ever had. 

Yet there's very little on this website of people having those problems.

Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## Bobbimcgee

We've had our floors in since some time in Sept. 2011 and we're still really happy with them. We had a contractor install the floor over concrete. I just vacuum and mop it once a week or so and it' looks beautiful. We have the walnut color and we're happy with the choice.


----------



## KinNorth

tara8595 said:


> I started working on this floor last spring. It's now October, and my floor still isn't done. Not for lack of trying. After pulling up the floor twice and realizing that I had sags in my floor over the recommended amount, I talked to folks at halstead and at Home Depot, and they recommended filling the sags with self-leveling compound. So we tried that.
> 
> It was a disaster. That stuff is really difficult to work with. We poured, scraped/sanded/grinded, etc. Poured again. Still not right. The issue is that unless you cover the entire floor, you don't know the liquid volume of the sag. So you're either going to have too much or not enough, and either way, it sets up a vicious cycle of re-do.
> 
> Here's the bottom line. Check your floor with a straight edge. If you have a sag/depression in your floor, don't even think about putting this in by yourself. Hire someone to level your floor first, or go with sheet vinyl. It is not worth having your house a wreck for 8 months while you figure it out. And even if you start out with a level floor, unless it's concrete with no give, this floor will fail by design. Just don't do it.


Great advice. Scared the heck out of me, too. On your last point, I'd say that applies to any long strip flooring with joints. Even hardwood with more thickness along the joints would likely splinter or crack at the joints or if not, you'd get a "creaking or clacking" where the subfloor flexes or sags below any flooring or lifts the flooring.


----------



## KinNorth

KinNorth said:


> Only poly as underlayment on my concrete basement floor? (It's very dry and in very good condition.)
> 
> I have three wishes:
> 
> One, to deaden any of that tapping noise I've heard on wood over concrete floors caused by seemingly even the slightest bit of plank/laminate lift or drycore board or other underlay float.
> 
> Two, to gain even the slightest bit of thermal break between the floor and the planks. (when it's minus 30 or worse outside I hate not being able to warm up my feet.  )
> 
> Three, ever so slightly soften the hardness of the feel of vinyl on concrete.
> 
> 
> So would that very thin sheet rubber "shower liner" also work? (It's available in large rolls.)
> 
> Or, would moderately thick "landscape fabric" work? (That fuzzy side might make a bit of a difference) ...and the breathability might prevent spills from being trapped under the planks.
> 
> Note, I do plan to carefully level, scrape, sweep and vacuum my basement floor.



Any thoughts on my comments above? I one flooring product recommends landscape fabric to prevent clacking:

http://www.buildinghomes.ca/community/forums/showthread.php?t=16321

And would it provide a slight thermal break?



.


----------



## Vee_

*My experience: great so far!*

Hey all! Got a lot of good info while deciding if I wanted to go with Allure Ultra from this site, so thought I'd contribute my experience back. I describe reflooring my studio with Allure Ultra Clear Cherry here: -------


----------



## Vee_

wyllder said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm a DIY'er with some experience. In our new house I am currently planning a basement remodel and this basement has a decent chance of water at some point. This has the wife spooked and I'm looking for a flooring that will survive minor flooding, which is what has me looking at Allure Ultra.
> 
> I'm considering laying this down over either Tyroc or Superseal All-in-one. How much of a concern is breathability?
> 
> One thing that bugs me is the posts I'm reading at this website:
> http://ottoblotto.blogspot.com/2009/08/allure-flooring-stinks.html
> 
> From what I read there this stuff would seem to be just about the worst idea I've ever had.
> 
> Yet there's very little on this website of people having those problems.
> 
> Any input would be appreciated.


I came across that blog too, but that one concerns the old ones with the adhesive strips. I smelled those on purpose in the Home Depot store and they did kinda reek, faintly, of chemicals. The Allure Ultra click lock ones I currently have my chair on don't smell at all. Well, a teeny tiny bit, but it's rubbery and not toxic to me, and now (2 weeks after install) I don't really smell anything at all. The surface of these click lock ones are somewhat more matte and seem tougher than the Allure adhesive kind, so it might be differences in manufacturing.


----------



## Slik

I'm a grown man and all I feel like doing is crying. My wife and I spent four grand on allure ultra on a home depot credit card. It has been nothing but a nightmare. Seems popping every where. Redid the floor several times. Seams pop at random. And yes we put them together correctly. Just my two cents.


----------



## Vee_

Slik said:


> I'm a grown man and all I feel like doing is crying. My wife and I spent four grand on allure ultra on a home depot credit card. It has been nothing but a nightmare. Seems popping every where. Redid the floor several times. Seams pop at random. And yes we put them together correctly. Just my two cents.


Oh no! That's terrible! Do you have some photos you could show us so we might be able to troubleshoot with you? Which seams are popping? The lengthwise ones or the short edge seams? Are plank seams popping more in one part of your room than another? How did you lay the planks; one at a time or a row at a time like I described above?

I know you said you two put them together correctly, but are you *sure* the majority of your seams were tight? Like, no gray or black gaps, hammered-new-piece-with-a-rubber-mallet-_while-the-planks-were-at-an-angle_-then-laid-it-flat tight? And if so, is your floor underneath flat enough for those seams to hold when you put pressure on them by standing on the floor?


----------



## Gary55

*Joining different styles trafficmaster Ultra vinyl*

Does anyone know if you can transition from the Carrara Cream Trafficmaster Allure Ultra Vinyl (click togther) to the Grey Oak Plank Trafficmaster Allure Ultra Vinyl. I am looking at a transution in the middle of the Ktchen and Dininroom and am wondering if the Click together seams are the same which will make the transition easy without a threshhold.


----------



## Meloman57

*allure ultra floating vinlyl palnks*

I am in a dilema. I cant find a single online video about how to use the locking mechanism when laying around door jambs. As well I have a fire place with a very iregular front and need to know how to butt up to. I was thinking about undercutting the base and sliding the palnks under but dont know how I wojuld get them to Lock. Help Please!


----------



## UMLBB10

Scott Nei said:


> I am in a dilema. I cant find a single online video about how to use the locking mechanism when laying around door jambs. As well I have a fire place with a very iregular front and need to know how to butt up to. I was thinking about undercutting the base and sliding the palnks under but dont know how I wojuld get them to Lock. Help Please!


under cutting isn't really an option. like you said you cant lock them in. the only real option is going right up to the door jam or fireplace. cutting the pieces is not very easy either. hopefully you are able to add molding to cover up the edges


----------



## miavecchia

*Debating Allure Ultra or Allure GripStrip*

Hello everyone, I am considering using Allure Resilient Plank Flooring for my second floor bathroom. Am concerned about water leaking into the ceiling below from the shower. I can't decide if i should use the Allure Ultra or the Allure GripStrip (glue strip). I plan to lay the new flooring right on top of the existing laminate tiles. I was hoping someone had experience with this type of application and could recommend the best Allure product for my bathroom application. Thanks!


----------



## danitaz

*Transition to stairs*

Okay - so I have used both the TrafficMaster Allure, and the TrafficMaster Allure Ultra. Unlike some in this thread, I've not had too much trouble, and have generally been very satisfied with both products. I used the TrafficMaster Allure Ultra over vinyl flooring in my kitchen, and then the regular TrafficMaster Allure over concrete in the basement. I actually did TRY the Ultra in the basement, but quickly agreed that a concrete floor is not even enough to keep the boards together. Switching to the regular Allure made the job a snap, and I would actually recommend it to just about anyone.

So, now I'm getting ready to extend the kitchen floor out to our dining room. There is a stairway to the basement in this section that will need to be addressed. I am NOT going to try to use the TrafficMaster stuff on the stairs of course, but I do need to transition the floor to the stairs. There seems to be almost no "transition" pieces for the TrafficMaster Ultra, so I'm not sure how I will be able to end the flooring at the top of the stairs. Any ideas?

Thanks.

Danita


----------



## danitaz

*Transition to stairs*

Okay - I guess I've found my answer! I found this info - 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uqnpHUHd78&feature=related

It looks like it would work, and while I'm sure I could manage it myself, I'll let my work worker husband have the honor ;-)

Danita


----------



## Vee_

Scott Nei said:


> I am in a dilema. I cant find a single online video about how to use the locking mechanism when laying around door jambs. As well I have a fire place with a very iregular front and need to know how to butt up to. I was thinking about undercutting the base and sliding the palnks under but dont know how I wojuld get them to Lock. Help Please!


I know this is rather late, but just in case others run into the same issue, you could fit an already locked row that has been pre-cut to the proper size beneath your door jamb. Otherwise you'd probably have to do what the others have suggested, going straight up to the edge and using molding to make it look neat. We ran into a similar issue when we reached the edge of our room and had to figure out how to lock in the final piece up against the far wall.

(If anyone would like an extra guide from DIY experience, please click on my username and browse my "homepage" that I made after we installed our click planking in my apartment. I included tips and photos since there were not too many when I was researching instructions myself, and hope you find it helpful  )


----------



## zakany

UMLBB10 said:


> like you said you cant lock them in. the only real option is going right up to the door jam or fireplace. cutting the pieces is not very easy either.


I ended up removing my door trim, installing the planks, then reinstalling the trim.

Making them fit together tightly was, for me, a PITA (just like all "click-together" floor coverings seem to be). I did it, but it took several beers and much swearing. 

Where I _had _to leave an edge gap, I filled in with a colored caulk that was close to the floor color. I also used that to fill in any seams I could see, since I was really going for water resistance.

Putting in a tile floor involved a lot more prep work, but less _overall _work.


----------



## ToolSeeker

Hey guys check the date on the thread.


----------



## tev9999

I realize this is an old thread, but it appears to be the most comprehensive on Allure flooring.

I am thinking of replacing my living room and possibly bedroom carpet with this flooring, mainly due to the 80 and 60 pound dogs that live here. I don't consider hardwood a possibility due to cost and dog damage. I don't like laminate either since I am afraid dog accidents that don't get cleand up right away will soak into the fiberboard and destroy it. It also seems quite slippery which will be bad as the dogs get older. The Allure seems to be the best option based on cost, look and durability.

This would be installed on the main floor of my house over existing hardwood (in very bad shape - refinishing not an option). The whole house is over a basement, so moisture should not be a problem. I understand the need for a flat sub-floor, gaps at the walls, tight installation, etc. 

Is there any reason I should not consider this with dogs? Seems like it might be the most durable after tile and concrete, which I don't want. 

Is there much advantage to the Allure Ultra (click) vs the Allure (glued edges) for my install? Is one more durable than the other with dogs sliding on it? 

Can this be done room by room over time without color matching issues? I'm thinking of starting with the spare bedroom to make sure I like it and to get the hang of installation. I would then move to the living room and hallway, possibly followed by the other two bedrooms. 

Are there other similar products at a similar price point?

Thanks for any information you can provide.


----------



## Complete remode

I have install this flooring from dentist office to garage and homes. I wish it was availabe when i did my garage. The floor has one st back but this can be reduced if install right. One of the glorys of this flooring is it can be cut and installed tight to the wall it will not expand or contract. you can caulk againt the wall to seal it it from spilss it's 100 percent water proff it's heavey and lays over anything. I installed it for a quick fix to cover a flor that needed to be used quick. I did not level concrete or use floor patch. you could feel the diffrents in the concrete however with all the traffic the floor was never damaged. I would not put any thing under it tha could hold moisture lay it right on flloor. I beleave you will be happy with it.


wiley0714 said:


> Would like to see here if anyone bought or installed the ULTRA traffic master Allure planks now sold at home depot.
> 
> I am considering this for a basement. I have laminate flooring dont which was two separate colors with carpet. I am not planning to remove the carpet and use the floating old laminate for two other rooms.
> 
> I still have the vapor barrier/foam underlay from the laminate flooring down. I intend to keep that there. I know that concrete in a basement will get (wet) from ground water absorption. I know mold grows from heat and moisture.
> 
> I intend to keep the foam barrier to keep any mold, vapors, out of the basement. As a note. The previous laminate was placed over a heated floor in some areas. *I discovered that an area in which I know i spilled (either gun cleaner or another liquid) there was mold. This mold was on the laminate between the foam and the laminate. I presume the heated floor provided the heat and the laminate provided the food for the mold growth.* This is why I would prefer a vinyl product like this Ultra Alure, instead of the reg laminate.
> 
> I know this is the new Allure product so i would like to see comment or reviews on it. *Not on the Allure glue together vinyl, or sheets of vinyl only comment on the allure ultra planks please!* Thanks ...


----------



## Complete remode

When you install this floor you have to make sure there are no slopes or ridges with peaks because the seams will pull away. Make sure your floor is good and level


wiley0714 said:


> With all respect joe:
> 
> 1. The planks I am talking about, stick to each other. There is not any glue or stripes to stick to the floor.
> 
> 2. This is a new product, and I assume you are NOT familiar with it. The edges glue to each other for the waterproof/resistant effect.
> 
> 3. *As an employee of Home Depot, I do not expect your opinion, which is reflective of making a stores product look more appealing, to be objective.*
> 
> 4. Home depot does provide reviews, and those post can be controlled in favor of Home depot. And many of there reviews are matched to various similar products, but not product specific.
> 
> I am asking for anyone who bought, the *new vinyl planks, which have an edge , in which each plank overlaps to create a seal in between the planks. *
> 
> Not the planks in which , you peel off adhesive to stick the plank to the floor.


----------



## Complete remode

when install this flooring you have to make sure the floor is level with no ridges or divets because the seams will pull away and they will not go back!


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## Complete remode

excellent flooring you will be happy with the end product. Remember you can cut tight to the wall you will not need the space like laminates. I recommend removing your base and under cutting your door frames for nice neat look. And it is great for pets and clean up.


----------



## tev9999

I picked up enough to do the 100 square foot bedroom and layed out a box to get a better idea of how a large area would look. Looks great! (Cinnamon color). 

The old hardwood has some gaps between boards - maybe 1/16 of an inch in a few places. Seems to be quite flat though. Should I fill the gaps in the old hardwood before putting the floor down? If so, with what product? 

If I'm going to end up laying 700 square feet of this stuff, would I be better off setting up a miter saw with a vinyl blade to cut them rather than using the scoring technique? I assume a scroll saw is a good tool for doing the intricate cuts. 

I'm also debating about all new molding instead of just adding quarter round. There is 60 years of paint built up on the wall, so removing and reusing the old stuff would probably be difficult. 

Guess I should get started on the painting. Thanks for the advice so far.


----------



## zakany

I can't imagine that 1/16-in gaps would cause any problems. You get that kind of gap between subfloor boards.


----------



## tev9999

I'm starting to rip up the living room carpet and have found that the area my aussie has marked several times has urine stains into the old hardwood. I've tried to clean it with the rug doctor as needed, but I think that often just helps flood stuff deeper.

Should I paint a layer of Killz over the affected area before laying the Allure?


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## zakany

I don't think you'd need to paint it. Allure is solid vinyl. It doesn't care if you lay it in a puddle.

What _would _matter is trapping moisture and rotting the wood over time. I assume that it's dry now, but what I would do is spritz the area with an enzyme urine cleaner and let it dry as a bit of added insurance against rot.

For your other questions - I cut mine with a box cutter. I had to press very hard (careful!) and make a couple swipes before breaking - and that wasn't the best or easiest method. Your idea of using a scroll saw (and a throw-away blade) is a good one.

What I do with my base molding is remove it, sand it down, fill in any nail holes, refinish it, and reinstall. That is a stupid amount of work. This may be a time to treat yourself to some new base molding.

The Allure Ultra really doesn't look bad when installed. It's obviously not wood, but it isn't affected by liquids and has enough surface texture to not be slippery. It has only a few, repeating patterns though so large areas would look particularly fake. I did my son's room in cherry and it looks nice against the maple furniture.


----------



## Filerunner

I'm going to be installing Trafficmaster Allure ULTRA in a 14 x 26 room on a cement slab. A pool table will be setting on it in the middle of the room and I am putting a 500LB gun safe in one corner. My question is, will the safe and the pool table cause problems with the expanding or should I put the safe in first and go around it with the flooring?


----------



## zakany

I wouldn't think that a 500-pound safe would keep it from moving, although it may have a preference to expand in another direction.

You might get permanent dents due to the safe, though.


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## tev9999

I would be concerned that if the weight was concentrated at a point near a seam it could cause buckling. Does the safe have feet that will concentrate the weight in a few square inches? If so you might want to set it on some thick plywood to help spread the load over a larger area of floor.


----------



## Filerunner

The safe is flat, no feet. I'm not too much worried about indentations but I don't want it to buckle. Thanks for the replies.


----------



## tev9999

I finally got started putting down my floor this weekend. Got about 450 of my 700 square feet down in the living room and master bedroom. Two smaller bedrooms to go. Some observations from a flooring novice:

Tools used:
Utility Knife
Saber Saw w/ wood blade
8" Miter Square
48" Steel Ruler
Rubber mallet
Knee pads
15" Roughneck Utility Bar (for removing staples)
Small crowbar
Miscellaneous shims and screws

I am going over existing hardwood. I removed all the carpet, pad and staples then just vacuumed and wet mopped. 

Staples are my nemesis. When you think you got rid of all of them, one reappears under the end of the plank you just locked down, so you must remove it and it knocks four others loose. :furious: Clean really well before you begin.

Durham's Water Putty was a cheap and good fix for the low area where a wall was removed. I also used it to fill some other spots where I felt there was too big of a gap or holes from running wires and such. 

The score and snap method is the best way to make straight cuts. I found you can cut it with a power miter saw, but it actually takes longer and makes a big mess. I used a $3 eight inch miter square from Harbor Freight as a guide. A 48" steel/aluminum ruler comes in handy for making horizontal cuts. It can be tough to keep everything straight while cutting since it is somewhat slippery. 

A saber saw is the best way to make curved cuts or notches around door jams. A regular wood blade works fine. 

It took forever to get my first few courses down. The wall I started on was not straight. I used the existing hardwood lines as a guide to make sure the floor was straight, but I did not do a great job shimming it well and things kept moving around on me. 

In hindsight I would have been better off putting down a single course about 10 inches from the wall. Once straight, use scrap pieces of Allure screwed to the floor to prevent movement towards the wall. After the rest of the floor is layed and there is plenty of weight, remove the scraps and install backwards towards the wall. It would also help plan out room to room transitions. 

Get good kneepads - I didn't and I'm paying for it today. Gloves would also have been a good idea as I spent two days scraping my knuckles on the floor, but the clunky leather gloves I had around were too bulky. 

Use a scrap about 2x2 to tap in planks with a rubber mallet. I got lazy a couple times and just used the mallet and damaged the locking tab slightly. 

Use a small crowbar/nail puller to drop and lock strips along walls. 

I'm doing great on scrap with only about 5% through 23 boxes. I have many 48x4" planks that hopefully will be recovered when I hit the back wall of the house. Only had one damaged plank with a bad corner, which could have been from my handling. The boxes are extremely slick and slide around like crazy. Make sure you secure them well when transporting or you may end up with 1000 pounds of floor flying into the back of your SUV seat if you stop hard.


----------



## juryduty

Hi folks, I just laid down some Allure Ultra in my kitchen (Vintage Oak Cinnamon). After finishing the job last night, this morning I woke up and found it coming apart at the #[email protected] long-side seams. I SWORE I pushed and pounded these things until they were locked tightly together.

So now I have to pop it all up and try again. Question is, does this stuff handle a "re-install" pretty well or should I return the 12 boxes to Home Depot? 

Thanks in advance!


----------



## rusty baker

Return it and buy something else. If they will take it back. This stuff has a BAD history.


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## SuperJETT

It's strange to hear complaints about it. I did our kitchen with Allure Ultra (click, not stick), around 250+ sq ft back in September and haven't had a single piece lift anywhere. We like it, though it's also a temporary solution until we remodel the entire kitchen in a year or two.


----------



## rusty baker

SuperJETT said:


> It's strange to hear complaints about it. I did our kitchen with Allure Ultra (click, not stick), around 250+ sq ft back in September and haven't had a single piece lift anywhere. We like it, though it's also a temporary solution until we remodel the entire kitchen in a year or two.


 They have had many, many, complaints.


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## SuperJETT

rusty baker said:


> They have had many, many, complaints.


That's what I was commenting on because our experience has been great. No issues at all during install and 4 months now of no problems at all, plus the house has gone from late summer with windows open (warm) to 10F today and no buckling.

I do think it's like a lot of other situations/products where the unhappy people are very vocal about it while the satisfied customers just carry on and never mention it. We found the same thing when researching prior to my wife's back surgery.


----------



## rusty baker

SuperJETT said:


> That's what I was commenting on because our experience has been great. No issues at all during install and 4 months now of no problems at all, plus the house has gone from late summer with windows open (warm) to 10F today and no buckling.
> 
> I do think it's like a lot of other situations/products where the unhappy people are very vocal about it while the satisfied customers just carry on and never mention it. We found the same thing when researching prior to my wife's back surgery.


 It may be because, those that do have problems, have trouble getting it resolved. If they get stuck with a bunch of bad flooring, they will get vocal.


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## SuperJETT

That may be it, that the problems don't get resolved. I think with the vinyl planks, if you have to remove them then try to reinstall, the lip is damaged so you don't really get a second chance. I was meticulous during installation, but I've seen other people say the same thing yet have problems.

I dunno.


----------



## juryduty

I guess I am going to give it one more chance and try again but will also see if HD will take the boxes back. The planks seem to separate easily without damaging the lip. This time I will make for damn sure there is not so much as a micron of daylight in between them.


----------



## zakany

SuperJETT said:


> I do think it's like a lot of other situations/products where the unhappy people are very vocal about it while the satisfied customers just carry on and never mention it.


I haven't had problems and I am just as vocal as anyone else here. It's just that others have had a different experience and that is as valid and important as mine. Maybe more so.

No product has a 0% failure rate. Consumers would like to know if they are taking a 1% or a 10% or a 50% chance of wasting their time, effort, and money.


----------



## mjager

floorpro, are you still on this site?


----------



## tev9999

I've put down about 600 square feet of Allure Ultra over the last month. One thing I found is that it is very easy to knock out pieces eight feet away when snapping together the latest piece. You have to be very diligent about looking back at the last couple rows to make sure nothing slipped out. Make sure you look straight down at the joints - you may miss something from an angle. I also found that getting the first row away from the wall straight, and then locking it in place with some scraps screwed into the subfloor made it much easier than trying to use shims.


----------



## hansning

I have used Allure planks (stick strip) for quite a few projects, and never had any issues with them. I saw the Ultra today, and was curious. My initial interest was that they had a commercial warranty, which is a good sign. However, reading all these issues, especially the ones with experienced installers, makes me hold back.

I'm wondering though, for those who used the Ultra and had them come apart, did you guys install them over a floor that had were somewhat soft? Like over creaky floors, for example. My suspicion is that soft floors, or even unleveled and/or uneven floors, could cause major issues with a soft click type planks.


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## evad5150

*Allure Trafficmaster*

Hello everyone, Having installed this in an 1100 sq ft. beauty salon, I thought i would toss an issue out there and see if anyone has run into this or may have a solution.

We (my wife and I) decided that this would be a great choice for installation in her beauty salon mainly because of it being waterproof. Having installed many laminate/interlocking floors in the past, I thought that it went in pretty easily. The problem my wife is having is in keeping it clean and undull looking. after mopping (which is done very frequently) it always looks dull. During the winter months, rock salt which gets tracked in leaves unsightly marks and are sometimes impossible to remove. Has anyone used a heavy duty or commercial type sealer or wax that makes maintaining this type of floor a little easier than scrubbing on your hands and knees daily? We originally thought that just damp mopping this floor daily should be good enough in maintaining its looks but this has proven not to be the case. It requires much heavy scrubbing to keep the "nooks and crannys" in the floor pattern from trapping everyday traffic debris and becoming unsightly. Any input on this subject would be greatly appreciated. The color we have is the dark espresso.

Thank you

Dave


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## peach-melber

*Allure Ultra, the video is misleading, to say the least*

Okay. I have current experience with Allure Altra. Not with the wood-look narrow planks, but the travertine-tile look rectangles.

The product is beautiful. It is NOT easy to install. The persuasive video promises a "slide and click" installation. NOT. After much wasted time with calls to customer service, I went higher in the organization and found out the company has created a special plastic tapping tool meant to help you force the tiles together with the help of a hammer. Apparently, Home Depot does not carry the tool, and Halstead customer service pretends it doesn't exist (or has not been informed by management). However, a helpful executive sent me one, and it works to a good degree. Installing is still not easy, but this gadget helps.

Our installation has areas where the seams refused to mate, so of course the water-tight claims made in the video are also false. Something is needed to fill the gaps. I had the same experience as another online poster, a wild goose chase in HD looking for the "PolyBlend Seam Filler" that Customer Service recommended, which doesn't exist. Now I am told that the PolyBlend ceramic tile caulk will work with the vinyl, though the label does not mention using it with this material.

Long story short: Allure Ultra was put on the market before it was ready for prime time. Maybe the undecided should wait awhile before purchasing.


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## 123pugsy

Anybody considering this should look at the cross section to see if it has a white material about 2 microns below the top coat.

Mine scraped of with the wheels of a high chair and now there's white spots showing through all over.

Sucks!


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## #1installer

*Trafficmaster surface source and project source*



aboveaveragejoe said:


> Hey Wiley0714!
> 
> I am a flooring specialist from the Atlanta area and just wanted to say a quick hello and answer your question regarding comments or reviews on TrafficMaster Allure Vinyl.
> 
> 
> 
> TrafficMaster Allure planks get the attention they do because of the ease of use. The only time I've personally ever see a customer frustrated with the product is when[/COLOR] they did not let the product acclimate and some the edges did peel up. Even with the substrate being vinyl it needs a day or so for the planks to get adjusted to the temperature, etc. After I explained that to her, she had no further issues with theinstallation. Also, I just spoke with my Flooring Installer Specialist and we both agree that leaving the foam underlayment would not work in this situation due to the Allure planks not being able to hold onto the subfloor itself. I recommend either a sheet of polyurethane or similar vapor barrier thin plastic (ie 6 mil) or you can paint the floor with a waterproofing membrane. The foam underlayment is just too thick for the vinyl planks to hold properly. We sell both of the underlayment’s and you can find those products at any nearest home center. That way you’ll have no slippage or possible failure from your new floor.
> 
> Overall,it’s a great product and I'm gladyou’re still doing research before diving into the project!
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> aboveaveragejoe
> ___________________________________________________________________________________________[ If your talking about the plastic coated carboard flooring that giving half the world a headache,please install it and get back to us when it buckles on you, just like it did for MANY contractors,installers and diy's. :no: Floor reps and anyone that sell this junk will say its great,looks like real flooring except to those contractors that are riping it back out and throwing it in a landfill.:no: Floor reps get PAID to sell the crap they push(pennies per sq ft). tell all that good stuff to the whole development in Colorado and in Texas that its great=long lasting????? hahahha..:laughing:Ask ANY DEVELOPER what the BEST or a GOOD and NOT the CHEAPEST flooring to use. NO-ONE will recommend TRAFFICMASTER, SURFACE SOURCE, OR PROJECT SOURCE=COMPLETE JUNK FLOORING. :no: most floor reps are NO LONGER coming out to inspect,just reimburse the customer. ON product ONLY!!!Your going to have to pay the installer to remove(uninstall) said junk flooring and replace with a better product.. But DONT listen to me take TITANS advise (haha)and buy a tractor trailer truck load and have it installed. keep the flooring in a climate controlled area (for the rest of its life):no: because it does some amazing transformation ALL BY ITSELF.. love you guys and gals and good luck using that landfill material flooring:no.s. they change the name of this type of flooring quite often. gee,i wonder why.


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## #1installer

*now that is*

:laughing:an honest answer. Hi,im a flooring specialist.because i know nothing about flooring,just know how to talk people into buying this junk=garbage flooring.. I talked to another flooring rep that also knows nothing and we both agree you should buy lots of this garbage.. let me know if your state charges you to throw it in a landfill because some states wont allow construction material unless their PAID.. Glad your researching first before you jump off that cliff..


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## Aleece71

FloorPro said:


> Hi all... My name is John... I install Allure and Allure Ultra professionally here in TN... I have seen it all when it comes to Allure... I have about 900 to 1000 Allure jobs under my belt... I will answer any questions you may have to the best of my ability...


We recently installed Allure Ultra downstairs and some of the seams are separating. What can I do to fix this besides pulling up the entire floor. Di a ver large area wi three rooms and a hall. Will a flexible grout work to seal am
Nd hide or will it adhere to vinyl flooring ? Please help


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## flooring234

*new Allure products*



wiley0714 said:


> Would like to see here if anyone bought or installed the ULTRA traffic master Allure planks now sold at home depot.
> 
> I am considering this for a basement. I have laminate flooring dont which was two separate colors with carpet. I am not planning to remove the carpet and
> 
> use the floating old laminate for two other rooms.
> 
> I still have the vapor barrier/foam underlay from the laminate flooring down. I intend to keep that there. I know that concrete in a basement will get (wet) from ground water absorption. I know mold grows from heat and moisture.
> 
> I intend to keep the foam barrier to keep any mold, vapors, out of the basement. As a note. The previous laminate was placed over a heated floor in some areas. *I discovered that an area in which I know i spilled (either gun cleaner or another liquid) there was mold. This mold was on the laminate between the foam and the laminate. I presume the heated floor provided the heat and the laminate provided the food for the mold growth.* This is why I would prefer a vinyl product like this Ultra Alure, instead of the reg laminate.
> 
> I know this is the new Allure product so i would like to see comment or reviews on it. *Not on the Allure glue together vinyl, or sheets of vinyl only comment on the allure ultra planks please!* Thanks ...


Could you tell me if I can install on heated floor. Will it last?
Thanks


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## mrames

*Allure Ultra Installation under cabinets and appliances*



FloorPro said:


> I always install Allure and Laminate in what I call thirds... You want to stagger the floor in thirds to maintain a natural looking floor, but to also give it strength... This method doesnt have to be presise... You will want to score it on the top side... It will snap easier if you score the top protective wear layer... Plus that also keeps the plank oriented to your job...


Hi FloorPro John. I know this is an old thread but hope you see it. I am thinking of installing Allure Ultra in a 15' x 30' kitchen. My floor is two 3/4" layers of plywood with a 1/4" sheet of luan on top of that. Half is over an inaccessible unheated "crawl space" with a concrete floor and the other over an accessible crawl space also with concrete floor but is more temperature controlled. I have many questions.


Should I install the floor before installing the new base cabinets or after? 
If flooring does not go under the bases, is the 1/4" toe kick enough or would I still need quarter round, or a thicker base board? 
Can I install the flooring under the range, dishwasher and refrigerator? 
If I can put under the appliances, will the appliances make a dent in the flooring? 
If I slide out the appliances, will it damage the floor? The fridge has wheels but not range and dishwasher. 
Will tables and chairs mar the surface or are some kind of protectors needed. 
A 10' island will be in the kitchen, can flooring go under this or around it using baseboard or quarter round? 
Can or should I use any of those thin foam underlayment's for insulating or a poly vapor barrier? 
I understand this flooring was reformulated to stop the off-gassing and also redid the click-lock to improve its integrity. Is this true?
 Thanks for any answers.


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## bob13bob

the manufacturer warrantied temp range only covers up to 85 fahrenheit. That seems like a pretty delicate floor to me.. here in california we can 105F sometimes. What do you guys think? Can't depend on tenants to turn on A/C when they're not home.


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