# Kenmore Elite fridge troubleshooting help



## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

Hello all,

I have an nine year old Kenmore Elite bottom freezer unit. Model 596.71102101

Like others, my freezer is icing up and the fridge (up top) is warming up. I have thawed out the freezer with a heat gun and all went back to normal for about 1.5 months. For about a week, I've been noticing the back panel of the freezer where the evap is, ice is building up again. 

Most refrigerators have a defrost timer that is usually the culprit, however, I'm unable to find such a device on my unit. According to Sears Parts direct, about the only thing that could be the issue are items # 19, Refrigerator temperature control" or item #29, Thermostat (circled in red, last pic, look toward the right). 

Item #19 simply controls the temp of the freezer but I'm not sure what is the purpose of item #29, T-stat. 

I took some pics behind the rear interior panel to get a feel for the components. It's a simple device, though something is amiss here obviously.

I've cleaned the usual components under the fridge and both fans are operational. Compressor sounds fine and it's doing a fine job. The evap drain is clean as evidenced by the melting ice going straight down into the pan below the fridge.

If you have any insight, please post up. Thank you.


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## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

Looks like I'll need more posts before I can post a link to Sears Parts Direct online!


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## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

Link to Sears:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...102371/00003?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=59671102101


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## chitownken (Nov 22, 2012)

Do you have a multimeter? You will need to check for continuity through the defrost heater. Thermostat #29 is what controls it. It should be an open circuit normally and close when it gets cold enough.


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## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

chitownken said:


> Do you have a multimeter? You will need to check for continuity through the defrost heater. Thermostat #29 is what controls it. It should be an open circuit normally and close when it gets cold enough.


Ahhh, so that little Tstat is what controls the defrost heater, interesting. I'll check the continuity, that's no problem. But, I need the specs on it; another words, at what temp does it close? I assume the open/close temperature ought to be common with other fridges?

Thanks for the insight! :thumbsup:


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## Plumber101 (Feb 25, 2009)

It varies from defrost stat to defrost stat. Typical what I have seen is opens around 50-70 and close around 20.

Disconnect the stat and check for continuity. The contact should be open with NO continuity. Put stat in a glass of ice water for 5-10 mins and the contacts should close giving you continuity.


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## NitrNate (May 27, 2010)

i had a similar problem with my kenmore and i finally figured it out by forcing a manual defrost cycle and when it cycled for only about a minute or two before the defrost heater shut off and the compressor kicked on, i knew it was the defrost bi-metal. i never successfully ohmed it out because it wasn't completely dead, just dead enough to cause a very short defrost cycle.

replaced it, been fine ever since. i did the exact same thing as you, i melted it down with a heat gun and it ran ok for about a month and then ice built up again. kinda like going back to the old days of manual defrost, oh my how we are spoiled.


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## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

Plumber101 said:


> It varies from defrost stat to defrost stat. Typical what I have seen is opens around 50-70 and close around 20.
> 
> Disconnect the stat and check for continuity. The contact should be open with NO continuity. Put stat in a glass of ice water for 5-10 mins and the contacts should close giving you continuity.





NitroNate said:


> i had a similar problem with my kenmore and i finally figured it out by forcing a manual defrost cycle and when it cycled for only about a minute or two before the defrost heater shut off and the compressor kicked on, i knew it was the defrost bi-metal. i never successfully ohmed it out because it wasn't completely dead, just dead enough to cause a very short defrost cycle.
> 
> replaced it, been fine ever since. i did the exact same thing as you, i melted it down with a heat gun and it ran ok for about a month and then ice built up again. kinda like going back to the old days of manual defrost, oh my how we are spoiled.


Thank you fellas for the explanation. I'll dig into this today and call around to see if anyone has this Tstat locally. Given the effort and time it takes to get to the unit (empty freezer, defrost, remove drawers, etc) I want to make sure that I can pick one up locally if it turns out to be faulty. 

It does sound logical that this simple bi-metal Tstat probably is on its way out, given that it's been reliable for nine years. I can't complain about that kind of service record.

Thanks again for the explanations!


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## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

Time for an update:

I found the schematic :thumbup:, life is much better now that I know what I'm looking at. I DO have a defrost timer :laughing:

The T stat *seems* to be working ok, it stayed open in my icy bath and I could only cool the water down to 34°. However, the contacts were CLOSED when I first pulled out of the iceberg and then opened up by sitting in the room temp.

I took the T-stat out of the equation and bypassed the heater circuit. Put the defrost timer on "defrost" mode, fan/comp stopped running, heater elements came on and started to defrost the iceberg.

The timer motor is spinning so we know that's functional. I'll open it up to see if the teeth are stripped or something else is amiss here.

This has been a fun way to get to know how a fridge works!


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## alia176 (Aug 29, 2011)

*Defrost timer motor is toast*

Took apart the Defrost timer and motor to see what's up. Checked out the contacts my manually rotating the dial and they're functioning properly. Seems like the unit is not going into defrost mode, just stays in the comp/fan mode. 

Took apart the motor and powered it up and saw it function normally but then it stopped and smoke started to wisp out (see pic)  Well, guess the timer is toast so bought a replacement and let's hope it's all good!

Thanks for the help everyone.


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