# Skimcoat plaster



## smooth.n.even (Sep 5, 2010)

Hi folks! My first post. I've just come to the US from Ireland and have bought a house. Have started Sheetrocking and would like to skim the boards (with plaster, not mud). Any plasterers out there to answer my two questions ....... what is the brand name of a skim coat? And is there some type of PVA to get the skim to stick to the ivory side of the board. All I see in The Home Depot and local builder's providers are Uni-Kal and Structolite. Incidentally, can Structolite be spread on the ivory side of the Sheetrock?
Am a little apprehensive because of the seemingly high lime content reacting with the board paper 

Any gypsum stockists locally? - Southern New Hampshire


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

If you have a drywall substrate why not finish it off with hot mud (aka setting type compound) instead of plaster? You can mix it to whatever consistency you want and work it like plaster. You can, with experimentation add texture. I have even squeezed it through cake decorating tips to satisfy interior designers a time or two.












I am not sure what you hope to gain with actual plaster unless you are going to try to lime color in it or going for a polished Venetian plaster look or something. If either is your goal, I guess I would lay down a coat GARDZ first. Otherwise, just a quality sealer/primer should do. 

I repaired plaster with plaster all the time but once I had drywall up I seldom saw a reason to coat it with plaster. If I were doing a Venetian look I would still use hot mud and cover it with artist's gesso or modeling paste. Something with marble dust in it. Wasted if you are just going to prime and paint it of course. Better to use a specialty paint with some metal or pearl in it I think?

Nothing against plaster by the way. And if you are trying to maintain that Burly-Manly-Man-Ring-of-Kerry look of yours, you should use a hawk and plaster because it weighs twice what compound does and those big biceps will attract psychotic red-headed women faster!

Not sure about Ireland but hot mud comes in a range of cure times ranging from something like 5 minutes to 120 minutes (hard to find the 120). 5 minutes starts the moment it sniffs a hint of moisture but is great if you can work fast and have somebody mixing for you. You should be able to get 5-90 at a real paint store. Not sure what the box stores carry since I do not shop in them.


----------



## smooth.n.even (Sep 5, 2010)

Thanks for that! Have read up on it and I think it's a goer. 
Will Structolite stick to the ivory side of the board without PVA or other suchlike adhesives?


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I should think so but I have never used the branded Structolite product. You probably want to prime the sheetrock to seal it anyhow though.


----------



## smooth.n.even (Sep 5, 2010)

What I'm afraid of is, that when the Structolite dries out it may blow in thick areas. No use trying a little area as the blow out might not happen for months. Will ring up the manufacturers on Friday. Thanks for the help :thumbsup:


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

That is a technical question for the manufacturer, but for others reading this thread later, these may help for tips; 

http://www.usg.com/usg-structo-lite-basecoat-plaster.html

http://www.usg.com/rc/installation-...e-gypsum-plaster-application-tips-en-P848.pdf

Our sister site; http://www.contractortalk.com/f49/structolite-92196/

Our "search" box; http://www.diychatroom.com/search.php?searchid=3157287

Gary


----------



## smooth.n.even (Sep 5, 2010)

Thanks to all who helped. Finally got sorted with PlasterWeld and X-Kalibur. Excellent stuff ...... even if I have to drive 70 miles EW to pick it up.


----------



## Evstarr (Nov 15, 2011)

Love to see a pic or three of the final result!


----------



## smooth.n.even (Sep 5, 2010)

Will do.


----------

