# Attic baffles but no overhang or soffit vents.



## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

Ptron said:


> I have foam baffles in my attic. My understanding is these are to keep a channel free of insulation so air can flow up from the soffit vents. Only thing is my roof has no overhang and therefor no soffit vents. Are they serving any other purpose?


Probably not. Any venting at the frieze, drip edge, or elsewhere other than the soffit?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

1. Is the foam butting against the back of the fascia board, with no gap? 

2. Do the baffles extend all the way up to the ridge, or just one at the bottom? 

3. Are they in every bay?

4. Do you have any exhaust venting? Gable vent, turtle-back or pot vent, ridge vent, etc.?

General info: http://www.airvent.com/homeowner/products/intakeSoffit-specs.shtml

Possible solutions: http://www.cor-a-vent.com/in-vent.cfm 

http://www.cor-a-vent.com/PDF/S4002P.pdf

Be safe, Gary


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## Ptron (Nov 28, 2008)

seeyou said:


> Probably not. Any venting at the frieze, drip edge, or elsewhere other than the soffit?


Nope.













GBR in WA said:


> 1. Is the foam butting against the back of the fascia board, with no gap?


I don't know. I'll have to check. There isn't really a fascia board.



> 2. Do the baffles extend all the way up to the ridge, or just one at the bottom?


Just one at the bottom.



> 3. Are they in every bay?


Except for in the corners, yes.



> 4. Do you have any exhaust venting? Gable vent, turtle-back or pot vent, ridge vent, etc.?


4 turtle back vents.


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

You must have a fascia otherwise what are the eaves nailed to? Can you get a pic looking up under the eaves?


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## Ptron (Nov 28, 2008)

canadaclub said:


> You must have a fascia otherwise what are the eaves nailed to?


 I don't really have what I would call eaves. There's what appears to be aluminum covered 2x4 around the perimeter.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The fascia board is behind the gutter. In post #3, check out the roof top eave vents, just above the gutter. 

1. How many square feet is the house? 

2. How many turtle back vents? 

3. Do you get ice dams in Winter?

Be safe, Gary


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## Ptron (Nov 28, 2008)

GBR in WA said:


> The fascia board is behind the gutter. In post #3, check out the roof top eave vents, just above the gutter.


I saw that. Something to consider I guess whenever I need a new roof.



> 1. How many square feet is the house?


 ~800



> 2. How many turtle back vents?


 Four. One on each side.



> 3. Do you get ice dams in Winter?


No and I was about the only one around who didn't.


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

What about mold, moisture or high temp problems in the attic? You have to wonder if there isn't some sort of intake ventillation concealed there somewhere if someone went to the trouble of installing all those baffles.


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## Ptron (Nov 28, 2008)

Jim F said:


> What about mold, moisture or high temp problems in the attic? You have to wonder if there isn't some sort of intake ventillation concealed there somewhere if someone went to the trouble of installing all those baffles.


I'll look again but it really doesn't look like there's anything there. This is a pretty odd and cheaply built house (The walls are cinderblock all the way up to the roof!) not to mention it's 60 odd years old. I don't see any signs of mold or mildew but it does get _really_ _really_ hot up there.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If those roof vents are 7x7" = 49 = about 38 sq.in.NFVA 800 sq.ft. / 150 = 5.33 / 2 = 2.67sq.ft. for intakes, same for exhaust if no vapor barrier above ceiling on attic side. the pot exhaust vents---- 38 x 4 = 152sq.in. minus the total--2.67 x 144 = 385 
You need 233 more or *6 more *exhaust near ridge. Using rooftop intake over the soffit vents at 10NFVA per lin.ft., you need *35’*.
Be sure to air seal the attic first: http://www.rd.com/how-to-seal-attic-air-leaks/article18158.html


Be safe, Gary


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

If you air seal the ceiling, you will seal it up completely and without an air exchanger your house will mold from the inside out.

The vents are fighting each other up there being there is one on each side. Air is coming in one and thrown right out the other, and not taking any warm moist air with it. You need to have someone take out some of the vents, put them on one side and install some more vents lower on the roof. Those will act as intake vents.

Your house was designed with cheap energy in mind. Probably was meant to lose heat and keep the roof clear. Many homes up here built in the 60's had the sealed roof system. There is probably very little insulation in the attic. That can be done when the roof and the new vents are installed.

Air sealing and insulation is a great idea. Just plan to spend the money to get your house as a system, up and running efficiently.


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## Ptron (Nov 28, 2008)

MJW said:


> If you air seal the ceiling, you will seal it up completely and without an air exchanger your house will mold from the inside out.
> 
> The vents are fighting each other up there being there is one on each side. Air is coming in one and thrown right out the other, and not taking any warm moist air with it. You need to have someone take out some of the vents, put them on one side and install some more vents lower on the roof. Those will act as intake vents.
> 
> ...


Actually, there's a ton of insulation up there. A foot to foot and a half of blown in cellulose over some old compacted bats. I would presume the cellulose and styrofoam baffles are of relatively recent vintage compared to the rest of the house. I never had ice damns or icicles or anything last winter (southern Wisconsin).

I'll keep all this stuff in mind for when the roof gets redone in 5-10 years but in the meantime I'm not really having any problems. I think my far bigger insulation (or lack of it) problem is the walls. They're uninsulated right now and being concrete block there really isn't a good way to do anything about it.


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