# Drywall around shower module



## xjxt (Sep 11, 2011)

I'm installing a Lasco one piece shower stall and the method I'm thinking of going with is to run the drywall only up to the edge of the mounting flange and pre-filling the remaining large void with Duro-Bond 90 minute setting type compound,tape,mud,primer,paint and finish with a fine bead of caulk.
The problem I'm having is I had already furred out my walls with ripped 5/8"thick x 1 1/2" plywood strips in prep for "squarely" installing my drywall over the mounting flange and screw heads. This was before I discovered that most recommend the method as I mentioned above.

In any event the total thickness of the Duro-Bond "fill" would be approx 1" thick by 1 1/8" wide and I don't know and can not find any maximum thickness spec's on Duro-Bond 90. My question is, would this be too thick an application for this or a similar product?? Thanks


----------



## m1951mm (Apr 16, 2011)

I am working on a similar bathroom now. The advice I was given was to bring the drywall over the flange to the shower wall, prime and caulk joint only. I would not trust a mud joint that wide. Is there a problem with bringing the drywall down to the top of the shower wall in your case??

I will be interested in others inputs on this question. Still what ever you do, make sure to prime first before you caulk!!!!


----------



## xjxt (Sep 11, 2011)

Micky,thanks for the responce
I learned late that the professional concensus is to run the drywall only to the edge of the flange and fill the remaing void with setting type hot mud.The person at Tape-texture and drywall.org suggests the same method.He suggests added strenght.
I'm still undecided which would be best both Kohler and Lasco recommend over the flange with the drywall tapered edge within a 1/4" of the enclosure and fill the gap with silicone.I too would be interested how best to procede Thanks


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

XJ,
Most people don't want to take the time to fur out the wall. Since you already furred it out, go ahead and bring the drywall (moisture restant) down over the flange. Leave a small gap between it and the top of the shower for a good caulk joint. The other way you mentioned is the way its done in the area I live. As long as you use the dry mix setting type compound and tape it, they hold up well and are as solid as a rock. Proper painting and the final caulk bead are equally important.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## xjxt (Sep 11, 2011)

Mike,thanks for the reply
I like the part about "solid as a rock" that was one of my concerns. Which is the reason I started second guessing. Normally,when I've seen it done this way their only butting up 1/2" rock to the flange but I have an appoximate 1/4" added thickness of my furring shims, just concerned this may be too much of a fill for hot mud? Maybe not?


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Do the hot set mud in a couple of applications. It will bond to each other like it's one piece. Mix it up a little on the thick side when you are trying to fill large gaps. That way it won't sag. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## CraigV (May 4, 2009)

xjxt said:


> I'm still undecided which would be best both Kohler and Lasco recommend over the flange with the drywall tapered edge within a 1/4" of the enclosure and fill the gap with silicone.I too would be interested how best to procede Thanks


Obviously Kohler and Lasco are unconcerned with how the rest of the job turns out....putting the tapered edge against 5 edges of a typical shower stall results in at least two awkward tapered-to-butt joints where the sides meet the tops. The tapered edges also leave a shadow line unless you fill them, which puts you right back at the problem of finishing the edge nicely.

The method you read in drywall.org is fast, easy, and results in a durable flat wall.


----------



## iminaquagmire (Jul 10, 2010)

The method you read about is the way to go for sure. However I would not use the Durabond. Durabond is next to impossible to sand once dry. Use the Easysand 90 instead.


----------



## Ed911 (Oct 15, 2011)

iminaquagmire said:


> The method you read about is the way to go for sure. However I would not use the Durabond. Durabond is next to impossible to sand once dry. Use the Easysand 90 instead.


This is the first time that I've heard about that method...obviously it's acceptable. My reading...since I'm about to do the same, says to fur out the wall so that the drywall will slip over the flange...drywall over the flange, leaving a 3/16" gap to be filled with caulk or silicone. I think I like this method better than filling such a large gap with filler...eventhough it seems to be okay.


----------



## CraigV (May 4, 2009)

Ed911 said:


> This is the first time that I've heard about that method...obviously it's acceptable. My reading...since I'm about to do the same, says to fur out the wall so that the drywall will slip over the flange...drywall over the flange, leaving a 3/16" gap to be filled with caulk or silicone. I think I like this method better than filling such a large gap with filler...eventhough it seems to be okay.


Large gaps are fine with setting type compounds. They don't shrink much, so they don't crack when used for large volume patches and fills. The advantage of this method is that the wall is continuous to the stall, there's no fussy cutting to make a nice edge to caulk against, and the look is extremely clean...no caulk, no edge trim, just paint. Try it once and you'll probably be a convert!

Shimming the walls only moves the problem...namely where to transition to the studs...somewhere else. Or you're face with shimming the entire wall, which is obviously do-able but takes more time. And you still have to deal with how to make the edges presentable.


----------



## Ed911 (Oct 15, 2011)

CraigV said:


> Large gaps are fine with setting type compounds. They don't shrink much, so they don't crack when used for large volume patches and fills. The advantage of this method is that the wall is continuous to the stall, there's no fussy cutting to make a nice edge to caulk against, and the look is extremely clean...no caulk, no edge trim, just paint. Try it once and you'll probably be a convert!
> 
> Shimming the walls only moves the problem...namely where to transition to the studs...somewhere else. Or you're face with shimming the entire wall, which is obviously do-able but takes more time. And you still have to deal with how to make the edges presentable.


Thanks, for the input, clarifying things. I will surely look into it.


----------



## gogreenwave (Feb 11, 2013)

*repairing the gap*

Hi, 

this topic may be too old to post to, but I am in a simular situation- while painting above the shower stall, I discovered whoever installed it did not fill the gap where the flange to the shower stall with anything- they just ran tape from the edge of the drywall to the shower stall, leaving a gap of air over the flange. The tape is peeling off now, and I was wondering how to fix it- it sounds like I can cut the tape off and fill the void (about 1''), sand and paint. I was just wondering what the best product to use to fill the void- I have never done drywall repair and haven't used mud. Whats easiest/relitively cheap?

Thanks

Matt


----------

