# P0300 and P0101 codes on Safari van



## how (Feb 26, 2011)

I have a 2005 Safari cargo van with about 115,000km and it's been great up to about 6 months ago.

I've been getting an engine light warning light and a speed limitation of 90km h when 

trying to go up any steeper inclines on the highway for longer than 10 seconds. At that time, my gas pedal still has 20 % further to go to the floor but once that engine light comes on, no speed increase will occur.
It used to easily run up those same hills fully loaded with no problem but now, even completely empty, it just won't.
I had a repair company with a good reputation look at it and they said it had a P 0300 OBD code and changed the plugs & wires and serviced the throttle body & intake because they said that was needed. No complaint from me but it didn't change anything.
I took it back and they said that since the problem only happened at freeway speeds, and they were nowhere near a freeway, I should wait until there was more evidence of what the problem was before they would look at it again. 

No comment about what I think of their reasoning skills.



So I have replaced the distributor cap & rotor, the fuel filter, the ignition coil, cleaned the MAF sensor and tried some injector gas treatments with no change to report.
Picked up an OBD reader and it says the code is both a P0300 for a random miss fire and a P0101 for a MAF sensor problem. Changed the MAF sensor today....no improvement.



The trouble code snap shot of the data says
Cal Eng Load 87%
Eng coolant temp 94C
Short term fuel trim bank 1 : 3.13 %
Long term fuel trim bank 1 : 8.59 %
Short term fuel trim bank 2 :- 8.59 %
Long term fuel trim bank 2 : 0.78 %
Intake manifold absolute press 94 KPA
Engine RPM 4237.5 RPM
Vehicle speed 96 KMH
Timing advance 20.5 degrees
Intake air temp 26 C
MAF air flow 123.89 G/S
Throttle position 82.4 %


Does* any* of this info lead anyone to think that it may be an intake air leak/ over a fuel pump issue/ over a catalytic converter. issue??????

I've spent some time over on the HVAC side of this site and there, I'd be calling a posting like this, a good example of a parts changer.
Guilty as charged.

Howard


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Get engine to operating temp, hold at steady 2000-2500 rpm. Both front O2 voltages should be rapidly changing between .1 and .9 volts, both rears should be steady at around .5 volt and not rapidly changing. If the rear sensor is rapidly changing possible bad cat.

Use an IR gun and set up car as before. Operating temp and 2,000 rpm. Measure cat inlet and outlet temps. Make sure you get the cat temp, not a heat shield. Temp will rise from inlet to outlet of a restricted cat. The temp should decrease of a properly working cat.

Cats are expensive. If tests point to cat, have it verified by reputable shop.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Might consider having a local shop test the back pressure on the cat. They should have a gauge. Might be worth the 1 hour minimum charge to get right to the answer.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Mike Milam said:


> Might consider having a local shop test the back pressure on the cat. They should have a gauge. Might be worth the 1 hour minimum charge to get right to the answer.


Anything over 1 1/2 lb of pressure is too high. Measure this before the cat. Or take it to a muffler shop. They will know.:vs_cool:


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