# Drywall pop/bubble/crunch/internal crumble



## LeviDIY (Apr 16, 2009)

As you can tell, I don't know exactly how to describe this. Shame on me for not taking a picture, but happened late last night and at work now.. if you all can't visualize, I'll post one up tonight.

Screwing in 4x10 sheets onto metal studs... had all the cutouts lined up and done... screwing left to right. Get down to the last couple studs, right near a 3 gang box. On visual inspection before hanging the sheet, it looked like I had measured and cut PERFECTLY :whistling2: (somewhat rare for me).

I heard a "crunch" and sure enough the hole was just a few milimeters small... causing the drywall on one side of the box to pop/bubble/crunch/internally crumble. The gypsum between the paper seems to have crumbled in a 2"x2" area, give or take. Paper in tact.

I was thinking skim coating, but its raised, so obviously I'd have to skim coat the entire sheet, and therefore the entire wall, right? I'm thinking best way is to cut out that section and attach a patch? Or is it not a big deal and happens all the time?


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## ebstein (Aug 13, 2009)

I wouldnt worry about it...you could just cut the rock off at the next nearest stud if it bothers you, but I wouldnt worry about it.


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## red86yota (Nov 26, 2008)

you could probably just use your knife to cut out the paper in the effected area. pull the bad paper off, and dig out all the crumblies. then fill it with some easysand.


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## LeviDIY (Apr 16, 2009)

Is easy sand a type of mud? If so, I assume if I'm mudding everything else already (seams, screws) I can use that? Good idea though... probably easier than cutting out whole sections and patching.


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## red86yota (Nov 26, 2008)

easy sand is a hot mud - ie: it is dry and mixed with water to make the mud. it heats up as it cures. it is not as easy to use as the pre-mixed joint compound, but it is best for filling big holes because it does not shrink as much and dries/cures a lot faster.


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## ebstein (Aug 13, 2009)

or cut the bad stuff out, and screw a 2*4 in back of the sheet rock, and patch it in(the cut out stuff)with a small piece of rock..mud can hide anything.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

If the "core of the board is gone and only paper left, you need to cut it out. And 2"x2" is a bit large to just pack with setting compound. Cut out the bad area to "solid" rock. Take a scrap of drywall and cut a "hot" patch". If your hole comes out to 3"x3" (for example), cut a piece of drywall 4-1/2" x 41/2". On the BACK side of the piece, cut a 1-1/2" "lip" around the entire piece. Break away the "lip", leaving the face paper on the patch. (Since you're going next to a box, you can cut the face paper off the box side.) Put a layer of mud around the hole and a bit on the edge of the drywall around the face paper of the patch. Put the patch in place and wipe the excess mud from around it and you have a "hot" patch. Allow to dry thoroughly before coating again. Once it dries, it's almost as strong as the original piece of drywall. NOTE: you can allow 1/8" around the patch and it will still be fine, but be sure to "test" fit the patch before adding any mud just in case it's a little out of square and nees a bit of trimming to get it to fit. (Trim the hole, not the patch...)


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## LeviDIY (Apr 16, 2009)

Thanks for the idea on the flap... will go that route.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

levi--There are three different kinds of commonly used mud.

1. Durabond-bag mix ,sets by chemical reaction,very hard,used to fill gaps before the paper goes on.
sometimes used to set the paper.(20-45-90 minute set up)

2. Green bucket-also hard-contains glue-used to set the paper.

3.blue bucket.-soft,fine grained,easy to sand.used to add final coats.

This is over simplified but should give you a basic understanding of the muds.--MIKE


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Hi suds--I'm a contractor,My one full time guy was a drywaller before he joined me 4 years ago.

I have to go to work now,Maybe I can start a thread on -DRYWALL 101. 

Little things like basic layout,using a roto zip.------I'll see when I have time.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Just my $.02 worth, avoid the "blue lid" (lightweight) compounds. Softer and easy to sand, yes. Easy to scratch or "ding" also....


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## ebstein (Aug 13, 2009)

that hot patch sounds like a pain in the a$$..


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Nothing to it...


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