# Epoxy or Resin Paints for Outdoor Wood Deck



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Your other post:
We moved into a house with a large 2 tier deck 3 yrs ago. The deck was already coated with Latex Stain, so the following year we hired someone to repaint. We purchased the paint, so we know what we were using and we used a Benjamin Moore deck latex stain in pretty much the same color that was already there. 

Within almost months I swear it was already peeling. Now, an entire year later it looks bad. DH and I want to do the job ourselves- the question is; 

Do we tackle removing all the paint, floor and uprights as well, and then stain? We have a super power-washer but some might think that will "remove" the paint, however we know it wont, we know it will need some chemicals of some sort? [ any recommendations?] Or, do we use one of the newer products that have EPOXY in them, like an armor garage type or possibly a marine paint??? Advanced RESIN Technology Paint? We don't want to have to do this over and over and think the resin or epoxy type deck finishes can be worthy of the price?

I removed the other post for you. This is the appropriate section to post your questions and the doctor will be in to see you shortly. :laughing: Welcome to the forum!

DM


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## Tom Struble (Dec 29, 2008)

check out this product,i saw it at a trade show and it looks like a cool product,it's pricey about 1.50 a sq ft but thats way cheaper than a new deck

http://www.gulfsynthetics.com/consumer-products/deck-revive


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

You really need to get the latex up first. Anything you put on top of the latex stain is relying on it for a bond.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Was the initial coat when you bought the place peeling, or was there a lot of exposed wood surface? You need to understand why the current coat is failing and address that issue first. What BM products are you referring to, specifically, both the existing stain, if you know, and what you put down? If the current coat is failing, your next coat is only going to be as sound as it. An expoxy or high tech resin based product might lock down a failing surface, but that is something I would certify with the manufacturer. Also, I'm here on a DIY forum because I support the cause, but I think that might be an ambitious project for a homeowner. I don't want to needlessly discourage you, or encourage you to waste contractor's time, but I would get some reputable decking contractors, who *specialize in decks*, *to give you some estimates to balance against the heavy demand on your time and the possibility that it might take a whole summer for you to do in all your free time. 
*Almost all painters will take on a deck, but you want an outfit that really understand decks and all the various products and their pitfalls, trust me. Where are you located in NJ?


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## Duration (Apr 11, 2011)

*Epoxy for ext wood.*

Epoxy resins become so very hard that they will not flex when your wood deck expands and contracts with varied temperature and humidity. Coat the deck with epoxy and you'll have a very expensive paint failure on your hands. Also, epoxy resins are very unstable in regard to color and gloss retention. The average epoxy cannot be touched up after 2 weeks in direct sunlight.


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

Matthewt1970 said:


> You really need to get the latex up first. [Anything??? Even the paint/stain with resin?] you put on top of the latex stain is relying on it for a bond.


This is part of our concern. If the resin-based or polymer [stuff] is supposed to lock down splintered wood, etc., must you first get up the [ugh, why did they use this] latex stain?

thanks!


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## Duration (Apr 11, 2011)

Latex stain is not all together a bad thing. Just be careful and go with one that is rated for foot traffic. Standard latex ext solid color stains are not formulated with abrasion resistance in mind. They're formulated for coverage and wood preservation. Deckscapes solid color stain is designed with foot traffic in mind. I've had no complaints on it in the 6 years it has been on the market. If you're experiencing splintered wood, I'd consider sanding some and maybe even some.. dare I say stripping. When those wood fibers begin to deteriorate, they will splinter. If the Solid color stain is applied in multiple coats it will tie down average splinters. If the wood is splitting "badly" you may not be able to avoid some major mechanical abrasion with orbital sanders. I typically advise pressure washing to remove the loose material. If a power washer won't take it off, It probably will not be an issue for the solid color stain to be applied over it. "dull and clean" is the most important thing.


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

jsheridan said:


> Was the initial coat when you bought the place peeling, or was there a lot of exposed wood surface? You need to understand why the current coat is failing and address that issue first. What BM products are you referring to, specifically, both the existing stain, if you know, and what you put down? If the current coat is failing, your next coat is only going to be as sound as it. An expoxy or high tech resin based product might lock down a failing surface, but that is something I would certify with the manufacturer. Also, I'm here on a DIY forum because I support the cause, but I think that might be an ambitious project for a homeowner. I don't want to needlessly discourage you, or encourage you to waste contractor's time, but I would get some reputable decking contractors, who *specialize in decks*, *to give you some estimates to balance against the heavy demand on your time and the possibility that it might take a whole summer for you to do in all your free time.
> *Almost all painters will take on a deck, but you want an outfit that really understand decks and all the various products and their pitfalls, trust me. Where are you located in NJ?


 
DH and I are definitely not newbies to home maintanance or renovation(s). 

We have 4 hands on deck (no pun intended, lol) to do the job, and we plan on addressing the floor (a little less then 700 sq ft) as a team (Team K), then at my leisure I can do the uprights (I am lucky enough to have this time). We had someone do it for us the first time and Im at the point of "if you want something done the way YOU want it, do it yourself". We did have a reputable person paint it- the issue was it was initally done with latex stain (not my choice for a deck, my previous deck was well cared for with stain NOT latex). 

So, now the question is, if the census is to VOTE OFF the Latex Paint, an someone suggest a product?

*@Duration* - everything I read lead me to beleive that epoxy/resin is flexible and absolutly breathes with the changing weather conditions. 

The link to gulfsynthetics for example...how can that be used on decks where boats dock?

Any suggestions, always appreciated! 

:boat: CruiseDivaNJ
http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_172527479431415


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## Duration (Apr 11, 2011)

A standard polyamide epoxy will not breathe or flex. It will harden until the slightest movement causes a fracture in the film allowing moisture and sunlight to do it's work. There are other epoxies designed for varied purposes. I don't know that I've ever run across one designed with wood in mind. What sites have you visited about epoxy? I'm always looking for ways to "reinvent the wheel" so to speak. I know that Sherwin Williams doesn't currently have one that is tested on wood. Some pool epoxies may have some breathable and flexible qualities that would yield favorable results on wood. For us, "pool paint' is a cuss word. lol. The application for pools is so subjective. We've had some bad and expensive experiences selling pool paint in the past.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

If the stain peeled 6 months after application there is an adhesion problem and it could be from the original coat. I would use a stain stripper, strip the deck and start fresh. After stripping the deck and neutralizing the ph level apply a deck brightner, sand as needed and then apply a stain.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

It might be helpful if you post some pics.


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## Duration (Apr 11, 2011)

The adhesion loss could also be attributed to the cleaning solution used by the previous contractor. Bleach is common. If it isn't completely rinsed, it will cause adhesion loss.


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

CruiseDivaNJ said:


> *@Duration* - everything I read lead me to beleive that epoxy/resin is flexible and absolutly breathes with the changing weather conditions.


Epoxy will flex just fine with the wood but unless you are using the 2 part nasty stuff it is really no better than paint.


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

Wow, Thanks for all the replies. Ok, I admit, I am still confused. lol [will have DH read through your recommendations and advice tonight]

The deck is not old. It was built in 2005 and initially, latex stain for outdoor wood [decks] was used by the owner. It looked perfect until we moved in and then it had foot traffic, altho, not a tremendous amount at all. We dont have little ones with scooters and big wheels on it, just 2 adults and 2 older kids, patio furniture etc. It started to peel the first summer- so we had it repainted (same type of latex stain for decks, same color, we just followed suit with what the original owner used at the suggestion of our local and reputable paint and paper shop (not a HD or Lowes home improvement store). It peeled again. Bleach was not used to clean it initially by DH, he used whatever deck wash goes into the power washer, lol. When our guys painted it, it was cleaned first and scraped where it was peeling and coming up - but apparently that didnt help, because it happened again.

Not totally opposed to [yikes] stripping the deck ...because thatis probably the RIGHT way to go. Our deck on our old house always looked great with maintanance and the right deck stain...

How do you strip it? WITH EASE? haha 

cruisedivanj

http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=832267309#!/home.php?sk=group_172527479431415

AND I AGREE, A PICTURE IS WORTH A THOUSAND WORDS! The weather is not condusive to take pics today, tomorrow is a better possibility! 

I appreciate all your help!

Forgot to mention, there are no areas of splintering on the deck - I thought the epoxy or resin would lock down anything left after power washing and scraping, so we didnt have to strip and stain...I would just use epoxy or similiar instead of latex stain; even tho we know stripping and staining would be the first choice way to go.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

What layer does it peel down to, the previous layer of stain or bare wood?


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

jsheridan said:


> What layer does it peel down to, the previous layer of stain or bare wood?


Bare wood....

:boat:


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

Any one else with suggestions?

:boat:


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Hi Diva, since the stain is failing down to the wood, the initial coat is failing. It may or may not be a deck wide failure, but localized. However, the failed areas will continue to expand as moisture penetrates the now exposed wood. You didn't give us an extent so it's hard to tell. You can strip the deck, at least the horizontals, prepare the exposed wood and refinish. Or, you can do a good sanding of the failing areas and refinish. You're looking to do a start over using a high tech finish, so what you need to do to prepare for that finish is going to be determined by what the manufacturer specifies. You need to find a product you think you can believe in first. I asked what part of NJ are you from, I'm outside Cape May. When I suggested hiring a pro deck outfit, this is why I did. Go to this page and scroll down for the pics. http://www.painttalk.com/f6/behr-acrylic-deck-stain-removal-13283/


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## dobbsj (Jul 5, 2008)

*Epoxy coating for wood*



Duration said:


> Epoxy resins become so very hard that they will not flex when your wood deck expands and contracts with varied temperature and humidity. Coat the deck with epoxy and you'll have a very expensive paint failure on your hands. Also, epoxy resins are very unstable in regard to color and gloss retention. The average epoxy cannot be touched up after 2 weeks in direct sunlight.


I built a screened porch using vertical grain fir exposed framing. All six sides of the fir were coated with two or three coats of marine epoxy by West System with sanding between coats. I also is used to glue all the framing members together just like a boat is built. On top of this I primed and painted with white paint. After several years it still looks great. And cleans easily. But it is a very expensive and labor consuming way to go. And can be somewhat dangerous to use if you are not trained in its use. I would never recommend epoxy on deck wood unless all six sides are coated. But if you want a boat deck like appearance it is possible if you use the right materials. If you do you must use a UV acceptable catalyst and top coat of marine grade varnish. I would use stone for decks though. Less expensive in the long run.


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

jsheridan said:


> Hi Diva, since the stain is failing down to the wood, the initial coat is failing. It may or may not be a deck wide failure, but localized. However, the failed areas will continue to expand as moisture penetrates the now exposed wood. You didn't give us an extent so it's hard to tell. You can strip the deck, at least the horizontals, prepare the exposed wood and refinish. Or, you can do a good sanding of the failing areas and refinish. You're looking to do a start over using a high tech finish, so what you need to do to prepare for that finish is going to be determined by what the manufacturer specifies. You need to find a product you think you can believe in first. I asked what part of NJ are you from, I'm outside Cape May. When I suggested hiring a pro deck outfit, this is why I did. Go to this page and scroll down for the pics. http://www.painttalk.com/f6/behr-acrylic-deck-stain-removal-13283/


We live near Princeton. I think it would be the best decision to strip the deck and refinish it NOT using latex stain! The peeling is too widespread on the horizontal areas. It really should be done the right way anyway! 

I KNOW IT WILL LOOK GREAT! 

Thanks for sending me over to painttalk.com, appreciate it.


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## CruiseDivaNJ (Apr 10, 2011)

dobbsj said:


> I built a screened porch using vertical grain fir exposed framing. All six sides of the fir were coated with two or three coats of marine epoxy by West System with sanding between coats. I also is used to glue all the framing members together just like a boat is built. On top of this I primed and painted with white paint. After several years it still looks great. And cleans easily. But it is a very expensive and labor consuming way to go. And can be somewhat dangerous to use if you are not trained in its use. I would never recommend epoxy on deck wood unless all six sides are coated. But if you want a boat deck like appearance it is possible if you use the right materials. If you do you must use a UV acceptable catalyst and top coat of marine grade varnish. I would use stone for decks though. Less expensive in the long run.


I dont think Im looking for the finish you're describing, but thanks so much for your reply! 

CruiseDivaNJ :boat:


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