# How to measure for a miter cut.



## deniseriel (Mar 11, 2011)

I am trying to figure out how measure the miter cut for the molding that will be going up my stair and will join the molding to the floor at the top. I hope that makes sense. 
I don't know how to get the measurement for the miter cut. 
Please help...
Thanks


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## <*(((>< (Mar 6, 2009)

Draw a line parallel to the landing floor on the wall say 3" off the floor.

Then draw a line that parallels the stairs that intersects the first line (You can lay a straight edge on the stair treads at an angle to get the line drawn).

Measure the angle the two lines make and divide the degrees in half. 

There are your two miter measurements.


-But- There are more than one way to do it, that was just one.

If you have baseboard on each stair running parallel to the tread then it is a different type of transition but the same type of scenario with drawing the lines would apply, just more lines in different locations.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Use an adjustable angle tool to determine the actual angle--Your miter angle is 1/2 of that---

The brainless method that works for me---using the adjustable angle--fold a sheet of paper to match the actual angle needed---then fold that in half to get the miter angle--use the paper to set the chopsaw--
Cut a test piece if you are skeptical- then cut your trim.
Google Image Result for http://www.woodville.co.nz/images/dcp00272.jpg


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## LIHR (Jan 18, 2011)

I concur with Mike, his way is easy. If you don't have an adjustable bevel square buy one. It's probably one of my best tools in my quiver. Very easy to transfer angles very accurately, and you don't need to crunch any numbers.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

This is about the easiest way I know. I often use it on the job.

Take two equal width boards (in this case I'm showing two 12" pieces of 1 x 4)

Shove them both into the corner of the room, one on top of the other. Make sure the points are matching against the wall (or the outside of the turn).

Draw a line where they cross one another (LINE #1)
Take the top piece away.

Now draw a line from the point of the remaining piece (in this case the RED one) to where you drew LINE #1.

This will be LINE #2.

Take this piece of wood to your miter saw and place it against the fence.

Turn your saw till the blade slot lines up exactly with the point at the fence side of the wood and LINE #1 on the outside.

Read what the scale on the front of your saw says. That is the angle of your cut.

If you have extra wood, and you want to, you can test this angle by going ahead and cutting the wood. It should exactly follow LINE #2. If it's off a taste, make adjustments to get the cut perfectly lined up along LINE #2, and you will have the precise angle.

*********
As is fairly obvious, I have shown a normal 90 degree corner. And line #2 is, of course, 45 degrees.

The best thing about this method is that you don't have to have ANY angle measuring tools except the scale on your saw. In fact, even if you couldn't read that scale (say, it was scratched off or had a blob of paint on it) the angle would still be perfect if your blade is cutting right along LINE #2.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That's slick! I'll try that next job!--Thanks.--Mike--


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## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

Interesting technique Willy


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Try one of these. Doesn't get any more simpler or precise. I have the aluminum one. Made in USA also.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/starrett/prot505a.html
Mike Hawkins


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks,Firehawk---that's a Starrett--and a good price-----That's going on my wish list.--Mike-


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## LIHR (Jan 18, 2011)

That's a neat tool by Starret.

Here's another called the "MITER-MASTER PLUS 16" ( I believe there is an 11" also)

http://www.amazon.com/QUINT-GRAPHIC...0KZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300025399&sr=8-1


It's a pretty neat tool and I purchased one when they first came out about two years ago. I purchased it with the intent of giving it to guys working for me that are not up on the math of it all so to "Cut" down on mistakes. 
It's plastic, but very high quality bomb proof plastic.


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## kcremodeling (Mar 3, 2010)

Willie T said:


> This is about the easiest way I know. I often use it on the job.
> 
> Take two equal width boards (in this case I'm showing two 12" pieces of 1 x 4)
> 
> ...


Nice drawing there Willie. Did you do that in sketchup?


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## rubberhead (Mar 3, 2011)

Willy, curious how well this works with outside corners? I'll have to give this a shot the next time I'm doing trim work. I'll admit that I just approximate the angle then cut a few scraps and adjust until it


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## Gizmoman (Mar 15, 2011)

Willie's method is called "Bisecting",meaning to cut in 1/2. I remember learning how to do it as a apprentice carpenter. I remember thinking wow that's pretty cool. My foreman told me I should of learned how to do it in grade school. Well guess what maybe I did but never really thought it had anything to do with building......lol....

You can bisect angles on anything from wall plates,roof pitch,trim,siding,flooring,siding,facia,etc. The only angle finders I remember yrs a go was a bevel square,but you still need to use Willie's demonstration to transfer the desired angle to your material. Angle finders like the Starrett tools help to save time and aid for the DIYer novice and the PRO. Either technique you use there is still trial and error involved. When a compound angle crown molding chart indicates for example 59.4 miter angle & 47.8 blade tilt how does the end-user know where .4 & .8 is on the miter saw. The same thing happens if you use a digital angle or manual angle finder.

There is trial and error involved in everything.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Gizmoman said:


> Willie's method is called "Bisecting",meaning to cut in 1/2. I remember learning how to do it as a apprentice carpenter. I remember thinking wow that's pretty cool. My foreman told me I should of learned how to do it in grade school. Well guess what maybe I did but never really thought it had anything to do with building......lol....
> 
> You can bisect angles on anything from wall plates,roof pitch,trim,siding,flooring,siding,facia,etc. The only angle finders I remember yrs a go was a bevel square,but you still need to use Willie's demonstration to transfer the desired angle to your material. Angle finders like the Starrett tools help to save time and aid for the DIYer novice and the PRO. Either technique you use there is still trial and error involved. When a compound angle crown molding chart indicates for example 59.4 miter angle & 47.8 blade tilt how does the end-user know where .4 & .8 is on the miter saw. The same thing happens if you use a digital angle or manual angle finder.
> 
> There is trial and error involved in everything.


You made me smile! I also have an angle reader.... and I can hardly distinguish anything much past a half a degree, let alone accurately set it on the miter saw gauge.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Yes, it was done with S/U. And "Yes", it works the same way on outside corners.


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## Gizmoman (Mar 15, 2011)

Willie T said:


> You made me smile! I also have an angle reader.... and I can hardly distinguish anything much past a half a degree, let alone accurately set it on the miter saw gauge.


 

Yeah I'm the same way Willie. If the angle finders had a degree settings for 1/4,1/2 and 3/4" it would be a little easier to get the cut closer. The problem is the saws aren't set up that way so there is still trial and error involved. One of the main reasons was as I get older I cant really read the smaller settings anyway......Its the nature of the beast as we age. Secondly the dial size could get smaller if need be and the in-between degree settings would be that much harder to read if they were on the tool.


I've used the digital angle finders over the yrs. They were a pain in the butt at times if the battery's went dead,and I didn't have a spare battery. Yeah I know its my fault. If you dropped it the calibration got off so it has to be sent to the factory to re-calibrate.

That's when I decided to see if I could design a multifunction tool for many task.....................


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

I use a *Mark Ruler*. Polycarbonite, so it's tough. But also cheap so when it DOES eventually break, it's no big loss.
It has a small magnifying bubble where you read the scale.

I know what you mean about the 'shattering'. I bought a compound miter gauge crown holder from Rockler. Some kind of transparent orange plastic.

I dropped it twice, and both times parts of it shattered. The second time, it broke right at the fence-to-bed 90 degree angle.

Rockler was good for it, and replaced it for nothing, (they're a great company), but it was a pain.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

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