# Drain pipe cap removal



## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

I'm finishing the bar in my basement, and the previous owner has the drain pipe that comes out of the wall capped off. The cap is threaded on and it is not budging when I wrench on it. I'm using two pipe wrenches, one to stabilize the pipe and the other to wrench on the cap. I used all my might, and it's not budging one bit. Do any of you have any suggestions of what I can do to get this cap off? Can I heat it up? I'm afraid to knock it with a hammer, I'm thinking that might possibly mess up the threads. I'm all ears. Here are some pics so you can see what I'm dealing with. The pipe is 1-1/2 diameter galvanized, if that helps any.



















And here's a picture of my bar, for shats and gaggles. I just finished the addition off to the left last night, took me 4 hours to build that.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

how much access to the fitting inside the wall do you have? If it's a screw fitting and not leaded, you might have an easier time unthreading the whole nipple and then using a MIP X FEMALE SOLVENT ABS ADAPTER.

Besides, it's better to eliminate as much galvanized as you can before it rots out, and breaks off at the threads. 

:yes::yes::yes::thumbup:

If you can't get it that way it looks like you might need a couple of bigger wrenches..... a pair of 14" pipe wrenches might do it, but i'd go bigger just for good measure.


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

Alan said:


> how much access to the fitting inside the wall do you have? If it's a screw fitting and not leaded, you might have an easier time unthreading the whole nipple and then using a MIP X FEMALE SOLVENT ABS ADAPTER.
> 
> Besides, it's better to eliminate as much galvanized as you can before it rots out, and breaks off at the threads.
> 
> ...


Sorry Alan, I should have specified that I haven't had much experience with plumbing, so I don't know much of the lingo. I'm not too sure what an MIP X FEMALE SOLVENT ABS ADAPTER is? I googled it, and I'm thinking this is kind of what you're talking about:










If that is what you're referring to, that is the direction I plan to take, converting over to PVC. I'm including a picture of the pipe coming out of the wall. Might give you a better understanding of what I'm dealing with. Thanks for the help, too, btw.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

You're close. That's an FIP X FEMALE SOLVENT ADAPTER

You want male threads on it so that it will thread into the fitting.... The fitting is threaded, right? Check that first before you try tweaking the nipple, because you don't want to mess up the lead joint...


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Use 2 bigger pipe wrenches, get rid of the channel locks you can not get enough grip with the channels.


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

COLDIRON said:


> Use 2 bigger pipe wrenches, get rid of the channel locks you can not get enough grip with the channels.


Would you recommend I use a torch to heat it up in case it's rusted on? That's what my friends are recommending, but I don't think they're "qualified" to give me that kind of advice.


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

I would try heating it and if that didn't work I would cut it off with a hack saw and use fernco fittings purchased at HD or Ls. 

They are rubber with clamps in case you didn't know.


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

COLDIRON said:


> I would try heating it and if that didn't work I would cut it off with a hack saw and use fernco fittings purchased at HD or Ls.
> 
> They are rubber with clamps in case you didn't know.


Ah perfect! Yeah, if I can't get that off, then I'll just take that route. :thumbsup:

Is that ok for joining the galvanized with PVC piping, too?


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

Think so not sure.. if it's the same diameter shouldn't be a problem.

Maybe someone else knows for sure.

If it was mine I would do it if I couldn't get the cap off.

OH OH just thought of something if you hack saw it off and you can't connect to PVC you can buy a small nipple same size cut the threads off 1 end and clamp the nipple then buy a PVC female to glue fitting for the other end then run your PVC out from there.. but I think you can just clamp the PVC.


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## bluejeans (Apr 15, 2010)

You allways need 2 pipe wrenches.Using one and a channel lock ain't gonna cut it.People will talk about you,at your own bar while your serving them.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

That galvanized fitting looks like it is in pretty good shape, should come off with a pair of pipe wrenches, but for good measure you can add a persuader to the pipe wrench you are using to remove the fitting. My persuader is a 3 foot long steel pipe that fits over the wrench handle, if you can't remove it with that, there is no hope.


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Failing getting the cap off, hacksaw it off (a recip. saw with a metal blade will make short work of it) and join PVC using the Fernco hubless coupler mentioned above.


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

Can I take a grinder to the pipe rather than using a hacksaw, if it comes down to needing to hack it off, that is? Just curious


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Jho,
Borrow another big pipe wrench and show that pipe who's boss. Give it a shot of penetrating oil on the threads. Don't let that pipe get the better of you. 
Mike Hawkins


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

firehawkmph said:


> Jho,
> Borrow another big pipe wrench and show that pipe who's boss. Give it a shot of penetrating oil on the threads. Don't let that pipe get the better of you.
> Mike Hawkins


haha thanks Mike for the encouragement. I'm heading down to give it a shot. I returned the channel locks to get an 18" wrench. I'm going to give it another shot. Thanks guys! I'll let you know how it goes


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

I am the strongest man alive!! :thumbup:


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Not to nitpick or be too bossy, but see the rust line in the bottom? That's the pipe deteriorating.....


Did you figure out if the pipe is leaded or threaded? It would still be best to eliminate that pipe entirely if possible....


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

jho said:


> i am the strongest man alive!! :thumbup:


 
" yeaaaah i knew you could do it"


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

It's amazing the price difference between that brass handle pipe wrench and the Rigid wrench, and I really don't see much of a difference other than the grip is maybe a little easier on your hands with the Rigid.


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

Alan said:


> Not to nitpick or be too bossy, but see the rust line in the bottom? That's the pipe deteriorating.....
> 
> 
> Did you figure out if the pipe is leaded or threaded? It would still be best to eliminate that pipe entirely if possible....


Hey Alan, thanks for the word of advice. I decided to take the risk and hooked up the plumbing anyway. That just sounds like a lot of work I'd really rather not get into at this time. I'm going to keep a good eye on it though to make sure it doesn't get worse.


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## bluejeans (Apr 15, 2010)

jho said:


> It's amazing the price difference between that brass handle pipe wrench and the Rigid wrench, and I really don't see much of a difference other than the grip is maybe a little easier on your hands with the Rigid.


 

jho, brass is expensive and also the wrong(weak)material for a wrench.i doubt you saw a brass pipe wrench.the rigid wrench you can leave someone in your will.keep it from rusting.


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

bluejeans said:


> jho, brass is expensive and also the wrong(weak)material for a wrench.i doubt you saw a brass pipe wrench.the rigid wrench you can leave someone in your will.keep it from rusting.


it's not actually made of brass. that was just the name of it, but yeah, the guy at Home Depot said that Rigid has a lifetime warranty, so that make sense why they're almost 3 times as expensive


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## jho (Jan 18, 2010)

I see how you got confused. Just realized I said brass handle... I meant BrassCraft. That's the name of the brand of wrench I picked up. They were about $15 at Home Depot as oppose to the $60 Rigids.


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