# How to tell if my Taco Cartridge Circulator is working?



## gunnerj (Mar 26, 2015)

I tried to bleed some air out of my system. The pipes where banging. Now the boiler is making hot water but its not circulating. The feed and return next to the boiler are hot but not the 3 zones. Which makes me wonder if the Taco circulator is working. Why would the pipe behind it be hot? Shouldn't it be separating the cold and hot?


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Welcome to the forum gunnerj.

It sounds like a circulator failure from your description, banging and pipes not hot, etc. What's the temp and pressure gauge read on the boiler? Please post some pictures of your setup so the hvac techs can see how its plumbed. Thanks.

Click post reply, type a few words, scroll down to manage attachments, up load and post your pics form there. 

If you're having trouble posting pics, you may have to go to introductions and introduce yourself a few times to get your post count up. Some people can post pics right away others can't. Can't explain it.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

a simple quick test on the circ pump is to carefully touch the motor housing. When operating normally it should feel quit warm. Too warm to hold on to. You will also feel the vibration from the running motor. If its cold and without a little vib., then it doesn't necessarily mean its shot, but lets you know that for some reason the motor is not operating.
The hvac techs will help you sort it out.


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

Those taco pumps are pretty quiet. I often need to put the handle end of a screwdriver against my ear and it's tip against the pump casing to turn it into a stethoscope to tell. 
Banging pipes are usually an excess pressure issue from something preventing water circulation or the expansion tank not working.

What does your tridicator indicate is the boiler operating temp & press?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

jmon said:


> If you're having trouble posting pics, you may have to go to introductions and introduce yourself a few times to get your post count up.



Post just to increase post count are not allowed. And will be deleted.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

gunnerj said:


> I tried to bleed some air out of my system. The pipes where banging. Now the boiler is making hot water but its not circulating. The feed and return next to the boiler are hot but not the 3 zones. Which makes me wonder if the Taco circulator is working. Why would the pipe behind it be hot? Shouldn't it be separating the cold and hot?


The circulator's rotor may be stuck. Or you may still have air in the system.


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## gassyplumber (Sep 17, 2014)

Check amp draw to determine if its operational. 
A quick shot with a dead blow hammer may free if up if it's seized


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## diy11786 (Dec 29, 2016)

I think I may have a similar issue. I had banging pipes and no heat on my first floor. Second floor was fine. I bled pipes everything worked. That was about 6 weeks ago. Now I have no heat on my first floor. There is a bleeder valve connected to the line connecting to the expansion tank dripping water, so I again attempted to bleed air and again the first floor lines had air in them. Temp on furnace says 180 degrees, pressure is around 20 PSI if I'm reading that correct.

A few years back, service company swapped out the second floor pump, so I'm thinking its the pump. Is replacing the Taco circulator pump a DIY project?


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

If each zone has it's own pump then a failing pump/circulator could be the problem....or a faulty zone valve motor or a rupturing expansion tank.

Your temp sounds normal for being controlled by a temp limit as does the 20PSI. is this the pressure when the banging is going on? 
Is the tridicator settings increasing and decreasing with the boiler going on and off?

Perhaps a picture of your boiler set up would better tell us what we are dealing with.


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## diy11786 (Dec 29, 2016)

The pressure only drops when I bleed the lines, otherwise it stays constant.

I will figure out how to upload some pictures


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## diy11786 (Dec 29, 2016)

Actually, I just checked gauges - pressure was just under 30 PSI and temp was 210.

Middle picture shows a pressure valve that is leaking water 

Top picture shows both cartridges. Top one is the one I'm thinking needs to be replaced.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Your system should not need continual bleeding. If it does something is wrong somewhere. A properly function auto-feed water supply valve, with a dearator and scoop above the expansion tank should keep air out of the system.

If your system is leaking water, there is the source of your air.

When a circ. pump is running the motor is hot to the touch. Doesn't mean the pump is functioning properly but lets you at least know the motor is running. If you touch the pipe near the pump (carefully its should be close to 180F) should be able to feel if water is passing thru.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

There is a problem with your aquastat controlling boiler temp. Also may be a problem with your expansion tank.


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## diy11786 (Dec 29, 2016)

Well - heres the update - I replaced the circulator pump but not the flange. I also replaced 2 leaking valves. Pics below. It was recommended to use Shark bite connectors. They were very easy to work with.

I bled lines, I have heat in both zones, but the bleeder valve continues to leak and the system reads just under 30 PSI


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Not sure Shark bites are a good choice here. Max operation temp range is 200 degrees.

http://www.sharkbite.com/sharkbite/wp-content/uploads/SB_Engnrng_SpcPckg_2014.pdf


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Yodaman said:


> Not sure Shark bites are a good choice here. Max operation temp range is 200 degrees.
> 
> http://www.sharkbite.com/sharkbite/wp-content/uploads/SB_Engnrng_SpcPckg_2014.pdf


While I agree it's close, however the system should be between 140 and 180*f

Cheers!


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

supers05 said:


> While I agree it's close, however the system should be between 140 and 180*f
> 
> Cheers!



Agreed, and currently running a hot 210.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Yodaman said:


> Agreed, and currently running a hot 210.


I missed the second post with the 210. It's running on the high limit. There's a fault. 

Cheers!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The circulator was not causing your system to have air in it. The other small leaks were, but only because your system has other problems. You still need to address the high temp, and the 30 or near 30 PSIG pressure in the system. check your expansion tank, and the auto water feed, either or both could be worn out. Or, if you have a tankless coil, it could be leaking into the boiler.

Your aquastat temp may have been set too high by accident, or the aquastat may be wearing out.


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## diy11786 (Dec 29, 2016)

I adjusted the temp in the aquastat and the temp is a steady 160. I am still getting high pressure and it feels like the expansion tank is full. That was replaced 4 years ago, so is it possible it could have failed that quickly? How do I test the auto-feed? or is the process to simply change the expansion tank and pressure valve, and if that doesn't work, swap out the auto feed? Or just change them all bc I need to drain system to do it?


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

The auto feed valve is the likely culprit for the high pressure. Some are adjustable. How old is it and what is the make/model number. If its over 5 years I would just replace it. The pressure relief valve is simple to replace and just makes sense to do it while the system is down. 
Expansion tank, if its full of water or leaking, time to replace.


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