# Wiring Ingersoll Rand replacement control box



## sharkin (Mar 26, 2010)

I have a 5 hp, guess it's a 80 gallon, 220 volt Ingersoll Rand compressor and had problems with the motor not wanting to start. I found a replacement box that included the Siemens starter and a new reset. The only thing this new box doesn't have is the two 5 amp fuses and didn't figure I needed to use them so I didn't add them to the new box.(?) After wiring the unit I have found the only way the compressor will kick on is if I hold down the Siemens starter re-set. 

I know I have the motor wired properly and the wires from the pressure switch expect the white one. It originally went to one of the two fuses and than to where I currently is.(?) 

The black motor wire was connected to the bottom of the reset (lower left), which is out of view in the pic
The white motor wire was connected to the bottom right of the Siemens starter
The motor ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.

The pressure switch black wire was connected to the top right of the starter.
The pressure switch with wire was connected to the top left of the starter.
The ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box.

The incoming black hot wire was connected to the top left of of the starter.
The incoming white hot wire was connected to the top right of the starter. 
The ground was connected to the ground terminal on the box. 

Any idea what's wrong and have I included enough information? 

Thanks, Shawn


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## Chevyman30571 (Feb 2, 2009)

I am going out on a long shot here but i think the fuses are almost like overloads on a motor starter. So without them there is not protection. And without the fuses nothing will flow through. So yes you need the fuses for it to work. You could probably make it work without the fuse protection but why would you want to do that.


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## andrew79 (Mar 25, 2010)

the part on the left of the starter looks like a set of contacts. If it is then those contacts would have to be energized for the starter coil to work. By holding down the reset button your effectively jogging the circuit and bypassing that set of contacts if i'm not mistaken.....where's an industrial guy when you need one . It should show you in the manual that came with the new starter how to wire it up. If there was no manual siemens should have it available online somewhere.


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## sharkin (Mar 26, 2010)

Thanks for the response guys. There was two docs with the product and I've attached them. It must be something about the jumpers. My old starter did not have the AUX interlock. I don't quite understand what they mean other than where to hook up the hot wires. What is the Start/Stop item listed? Thoughts? shawn


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

the stop/ start (in the lower diagram) is a 3 wire control station
the start/stop in the upper diagram is an on off switch or you could also put the pressure switch in that place as well but you need some way to turn this off as well




> Siemens starter re-set.


is this a reset button on the front of the box?

can you also describe which terminals the pressure switch is connected to using the diagram

actually, to make this easier to explain, is there anyway you can number all of the connections in the drawings to make it easier to refer to a particular terminal?


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## jlmran (Feb 8, 2010)

The auxillary interlock is designed to be used in a 3-wire system in the event that you wanted to wire-in another switch (say a safety device in the system located away from the main switch) to control the motor. The interlock is a normally closed contact, and if the additional 'interlock switch' was opened then the motor would not operate.

However, it is hard to imagine a scenario where an interlock would serve much purpose since this is an air compressor, and most air compressors maintain a constant pressure of air in the air lines. If the motor was disabled by the interlock, the air lines could still have pressure present.:confused1:

Edit: actually, I don't thing the aux. interlock is a NC contact. It may just be a terminal strip which makes installing an interlock switch easier.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

jlmran said:


> The auxillary interlock is designed to be used in a 3-wire system in the event that you wanted to wire-in another switch (say a safety device in the system located away from the main switch) to control the motor. The interlock is a normally closed contact, and if the additional 'interlock switch' was opened then the motor would not operate.
> 
> However, it is hard to imagine a scenario where an interlock would serve much purpose since this is an air compressor, and most air compressors maintain a constant pressure of air in the air lines. If the motor was disabled by the interlock, the air lines could still have pressure present.:confused1:


the interlock is used to drop out the holding circuit if using a 3 wire start/stop control if the overloads drop the starter out.


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## jlmran (Feb 8, 2010)

nap said:


> the interlock is used to drop out the holding circuit if using a 3 wire start/stop control if the overloads drop the starter out.


I thought that, but it looks like one leg of the holding circuit is passed through the motor overloads. What am I missing?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

jlmran said:


> I thought that, but it looks like one leg of the holding circuit is passed through the motor overloads. What am I missing?


the overload is the unlabeled terminals just to the left of T1. the over load connections run only from L2 to the unlabeled terminal on the coil (the 2 small terminals between L1 and L2)


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## jlmran (Feb 8, 2010)

nap said:


> the overload is the unlabeled terminals just to the left of T1


Yep, thats what I thought. And I assume the two terminals for the coil are the two smaller terminals at the top. One is un-labeled and one is labeled "3". So, if the overloads opened, wouldn't this de-energize the coil? It is a 240V coil, so if one leg is dropped then the starter would open, regardless of the aux. interlock. True?


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

jlmran said:


> Edit: actually, I don't thing the aux. interlock is a NC contact. It may just be a terminal strip which makes installing an interlock switch easier.


on this particular starter, the aux contact is a N/O contact, just as the main starter contacts are. WHen you push the start button on the 3 wire start stop terminal, you will energize the coil to pull the starter which will also actuate and close the aux contact. then, when you release the start button, there will still be power through the aux contact to allow the control circuit to remain energized (a holding circuit) Then, if you push the stop button, it will open the the power to the coil causing it to drop out. When that happens, the aux contact is also opened allowing the starter to stay de-energized even when you release the off button.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

jlmran said:


> Yep, thats what I thought. And I assume the two terminals for the coil are the two smaller terminals at the top. One is un-labeled and one is labeled "3". So, if the overloads opened, wouldn't this de-energize the coil? It is a 240V coil, so if one leg is dropped then the starter would open, regardless of the aux. interlock. True?


correct. Basically the control circuit (on/off) controls one leg of the power to which feeds to one terminal on the coil and the overload controls the other leg of the power that feeds to the other coil terminal.


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## jlmran (Feb 8, 2010)

nap said:


> on this particular starter, the aux contact is a N/O contact, just as the main starter contacts are. WHen you push the start button on the 3 wire start stop terminal, you will energize the coil to pull the starter which will also actuate and close the aux contact. then, when you release the start button, there will still be power through the aux contact to allow the control circuit to remain energized (a holding circuit) Then, if you push the stop button, it will open the the power to the coil causing it to drop out. When that happens, the aux contact is also opened allowing the starter to stay de-energized even when you release the off button.


 Yep...you're exactly right.


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## jlmran (Feb 8, 2010)

Anyway, back to the original question...I think you need to connect the pressure switch wires to the locations indicated by the dashed lines in the diagram with the start/stop switch (not the 3-wire system). On my computer this is the 'left' diagram.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

jlmran said:


> Anyway, back to the original question...I think you need to connect the pressure switch wires to the locations indicated by the dashed lines in the diagram with the start/stop switch (not the 3-wire system). On my computer this is the 'left' diagram.


yes.

that is why I was trying to figure out where sharkin currently has them connected.


He also needs to have some method to turn this thing off. If he hooks up the pressure switch as directed and there are no other controls, this thing will run anytime there is a call from the pressure switch.

the breaker will work fine but if it is not real close or convenient, he might want to consider either a disconnect for the main power or at least an on/off switch for the control circuit.


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## 3 legged dog (Dec 21, 2009)

If your motor starts and runs when you hold in the reset on the over load then either the overload is to small or broken.

It may just be something loose in the overload. :thumbsup:


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

3 legged dog said:


> If your motor starts and runs when you hold in the reset on the over load then either the overload is to small or broken.
> 
> It may just be something loose in the overload. :thumbsup:


I will be carefull with overload relays,

3leggeddog you can push in the overload once but if you keep holding them while the motor run most heater are designed to trip even you jammed or hold it in that why you need to let the heater { OL } strip to cool off then it will lock in the place.

Anyway to the OP make sure you have proper overload heater strip to set at the same amparage as the motor or little above but nothing more above.

Look at the heater number then look at the cover to see the excat amprange it will need to be used and double check the motor nameplate to make sure you have proper OL heaters.

Merci,Marc


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## sharkin (Mar 26, 2010)

*Let me see if I have this right*

1) So I need a switch, similar to an light/outlet switch to be able to turn the unit off when it's not in use. 

2) I need to connect the pressure switch wires to the L1 and #3. I already have the black pressure switch to the #3, but I think I need to move the white pressure switch to L1 and believe it's currently on the terminal between L1 and #3. (it's about 800' to my barn so it's kind of a back and fourth chore. 

3) Two more posts came in and make me worry about the size match of the new control box to the motor and it's amperage. Sounds like I might need to hire an electrician. What do you think an electrician in Texas would cost me to take a look at this thing? Would it be cheaper to pull the motor, pressure switch and control box and just take it in to a motor repair facility?

Either way I thank each and everyone for there comments and direction. Shawn


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## J. V. (Jun 1, 2007)

This is a basic drawing. It is one of Stubbie's drawings. It may not be exactly like yours. But it is basically the same for any motor starter.

The device in series with the OL is an oil pressure switch. Disregard it.


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## sharkin (Mar 26, 2010)

*Additionnaly and I stand corrected*

The motor is actually 7.5 hp at states 32 volts. The old starter is 15 amps and the new starter is 12 amps, if this makes a difference. I have it on a 40 amp breaker. And though I don't have it on a switch yet the wiring is correct for everything.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

sharkin said:


> The motor is actually 7.5 hp at states 32 volts. The old starter is 15 amps and the new starter is 12 amps, if this makes a difference. I have it on a 40 amp breaker. And though I don't have it on a switch yet the wiring is correct for everything.



I presume you mean 32 amps, not volts.

where are you getting the 15 amp and 12 amp numbers from?


has this ever run for you?

what is the model number for that starter?


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## sharkin (Mar 26, 2010)

You correct it's 32 amp. I got the compressor new and it worked great. It runs but only if you hold down the starter reset and this was addressed but the question or answer was to make sure it was wired correctly and it is minus a start stop switch. The old starter was model 16cf15a*alu and the replacement is 16cf12agacg. I wa assuming the 15a in the model was for amperage as the 12a was in the second model.


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

Ok I got the correct heater number { I have to transalted from French to Engish on this part } 

Indeed you have class 16 define purpose starter { just give you a head up what it will be } and this starter is a 40 amp size , single phase , 208-240 volt coil , open starter , it should mention two OL's in there.

Due you have 7.5 HP motor you will need heater part number is K67 or E67 one of the two the E 67 is pretty fast tripping while K67 is slow tripping element.

And you should have two heaters in there with 240 volts single phase motour but I know you have single element that you have to be carefull and will be mantory fused or CircuitBreaker for OCPD and short circuit protection.

Merci,Marc


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## redanalvin (May 1, 2012)

Can I have the price or quote please on the control switch box ?


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

redanalvin said:


> Can I have the price or quote please on the control switch box ?


I know you did woke up the old thread but for your statement about the price or quote that will really varies alot depending on you are at and where you get it from.

Merci,
Marc


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## redanalvin (May 1, 2012)

Good day Sir / Madame

The ingersoll compressor was made in brazil in 2002 .


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## redanalvin (May 1, 2012)

I am in St maarten dutch west Indies


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## redanalvin (May 1, 2012)

It is 7.5 Hp single phase 230 volts and I need the control electrical panel I saw in # 19 .
Can I have the quote send to my [email protected] please we need this panel asap cause i can not spray any cars.


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

You should get a hold of your local electrician to assit you in your area due I am in France and majorty of the readers are in USA / Canada side.

Merci,
Marc


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## sparkykilowatt (Dec 13, 2020)

sharkin said:


> Thanks for the response guys. There was two docs with the product and I've attached them. It must be something about the jumpers. My old starter did not have the AUX interlock. I don't quite understand what they mean other than where to hook up the hot wires. What is the Start/Stop item listed? Thoughts? shawn


Is the start stop switch suppose to be the pressure switch here


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