# How to repair termite damage � rafter ends (outriggers)



## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

*How to repair termite damage – rafter ends (outriggers)*

I have major termite damage on three rafter ends. The ends can’t be sistered because of the extent of damage. The rafters can’t be replaced through the attic, because this area of the house has a vaulted ceiling. The rafters (outriggers) need to be replaced to hold a new fascia, there is no water damage. 

It looks like I will need to pull the top of the roof back and remove the plywood sheeting to access the rafters for replacement. These rafter’s are on the side of the house and will be short, and end at the first truss. The Ridge board above the rafters is solid with no termite damage.

I’m looking for some guidance before I do this. I have no problem with re-roofing this area so that’s not a concern. However, it looks like I need to buy new replacement shingles. I can’t get the current shingles off without damaging them. They are a cheap 3-tab that was installed ten years ago (previous owner). I’ve tried to carefully pry the fastener up but the shingles are just two thin.

Here is my question
1. Do I need to remove all the shingles off the sheathing and pull up the sheathing in one piece – like it was put down, to access the rafters? Or can I cut the sheathing down the middle of the first or second trust beam to access the rafters. This will save me from removing a lot of shingles. 

I think I also need to remove the Ridge shingles to be able to access the top rafter below the Ridge board.

Any guidance would be most helpful.
Thanks


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Those shingles will come off, I'd measure up about 6' and use a flat bar, (wonder bar) and just keep repeatly trying to jam it in under the shingle while holding the bar flat againt the roof.
Remove one one row and use a shingle shove to remove the rest. Once the shingles and paper are off Then you can start removing the sheathing.
I use a Gutster pry bar to pop off the sheathing.
http://www.thegutster.com/


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## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

I was using a wonder bar to remove them. I had no problem sepearating the tar. But the shingle was damaged on the first nail removal. I believe the nails will come up better with the two layers of shingles under them versus the nails with just one level of shingle. (where I started).


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Have you determined the route the termites took to get there? I suspect through furring behind the stucco? Was the stucco taken right down to grade? Termites love that. Have you looked at the sole plates and studs? That is very serious damage, and might go quite far. I would just tear off that whole side, as getting shingles to match is going to be hard, due to fade. If they have gotten into the rafters above the top plate, the rafters are toast. This could snowball. My dad and I started on the rear door jamb of my aunts house down the shore and ended up jacking and ripping out the whole back wall. Those little ........, can be a .........


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

jagans said:


> This WILL snowball


There i fixed it. 

With the extent of damage we are seeing, your looking at the tip of the iceberg that will need to be done.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Since the poster did not add there location to there profile, just going to have to guess on what type termites they may be.
No all termites have to return to the ground to there nest. 
Mostly in the south there termites that life in the house all the time and can show up any where. That's why there homes get tented to kill them, while other areas have the soil treated.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

I want to see what the inside of that wall looks like.


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## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

I up-date the profile. The property is in Orange County, CA

I replace two rafters in the garage that looked just like the rafters in the photos. They were easy to replace in the garage. The damage did not continue very far beyond the wall. 

Also I did some electrical work on the inside of the wall below that damage(near the floor). The two studs I had access to were fine.

The stucco starts about 8 inches above the concrete pad and foundation. 

Yes, it will be interesting to see what's under the sheathing, Then I can decide if I need to open the wall.

Thanks for your help.

Some additional info. I've been all over the house looking for termite damage. For the most part the damage has been isolated to a few area's. They seem to have left the 2x12 trusses alone (ends, attic, garage) were I have access. There are some 2x4 damage in the front corners of the garage. I'm going to sister or replace with pressure treated wood. Also, the house was built in 1978. 

I live in a house in the same area that was built in 1964 and I have discovered that there is a big difference in the quality of lumber from 1964 to 1978. The only termite damage in the 1964 home is in the Fascia corners. I replace these corners about ten years ago (cut a foot off in each direction). needless to say the termite's enjoyed the new wood and stopped when they reached the 1964 wood. I learned a big lesson to use redwood on those corners or any rafters that I replace in the future. 

My next-door neighbor in the 1964 house just had a new roof put on and had all of the old fascia removed (he had the same corner damage I had). It will be interesting to see how long the new wood last.

Thanks Again


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## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

I have attached photo's showing the rafters inside the house. The damage was only on the out-side exposed wood. 

I do have a question I hope someone can help me with. Can I re-use these Shingles. They are a cheap shingle (last owner installed 9 years ago). Can I drive a nail one inch to the side of the hole. and seal the old hole with tar? About half these shingles were torn at he nail head. The shingles were just to thin.

Thanks


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

No way would I ever suggest reusing any shingle that's been removed.
Do you really want to have to go back and be redoing all this over again when the roof leaks or shingles blow off?


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

Shingles are cheap, take a sample of what you have to the local supplier (The big box store may even have what you need) But to be safe i would go to ABC supply or if your near Oange, Christian Building Materials. Either of them should have what you need, just go to whomever is nearst your location.

Some areas of OC are really notorious for extensive termite damage. I could tell by the pic you were in OC, i see that weekly on our jobs. Just did a repair behind a chimney in Tustin, found lots of live termites during the demo also...that i dont see much, its usually just old damage.


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## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

I wasn't sure if I could find replacement shingles that would be a close match. Thank you for the advice and recommendations. I'll replace these shingles. I appreciate your help.


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## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

On the other side of the home there is termite damage on the underside of one rafter. The bottom half. This appears to be old damage. The rafter still has good support left, but it looks bad.

Any suggestions?


I hate to pull the roof back to fix one rafter.
I don’t want to cut it out. And replace with a fake rafter end. (to make it look better) 
Using Bondo on this would be difficult.
 
I’m prepping this home so I can paint it. Any suggestions on how I can make this one rafter more pleasing to look at?


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

Bondo or a fake tail is your only option if your not removing the roof.

If it is too heavily damaged bondo can be far more work than a fake tail. The fake tail option is sooooo common around here i would just go that route depending on the amount of damage. Provided the rafter to the RT and LFT of it are solid it is your best option. Multiple fake fails in a row are a really bad idea. 

The fake tail assumes your able to cut the existing tail back enough to get to solid wood. If you cut it back and the damage continues beyond the fireblock your kinda screwed. It is still doable, but it will end up taking far more time and effort. 

I am torn between the two, without seeing it its hard to say which is your best option really.


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## jeffa123 (Nov 9, 2011)

I think I'll try a fake tail. I didn't know if this was acceptable or not. 

I was thinking of bending some tin or aluminum or galvanized metal into the shape of the bottom of the rafter end and screwing it into the bottom of the rafter to hide the sides and bottom damage.

Not sure how well the primer and paint would hold. Wouldn't this hide the damage and look like the rafter after it's painted? As well as maintain the support of the top half of the rafter that's in good condition.


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## AndyWRS (Feb 1, 2012)

Wrapping the tail in metal is an option, again it all depends on how bad it is. 

Just started a job in DPT today, its bad..$2,600 in shiplap, fascia, skip sheathing, plywood, rafters and rafter tails. All termite damage. Can't even start the new roof, need a couple days just to fix all the wood first.


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