# Ceiling crack repair in manufactured home



## NVHoo (May 24, 2017)

I bought a new manufactured home out of foreclosure in the north Arizona wilderness as a vacation home 7 years ago. I hired a professional to do several repairs as the home had some issues from sitting empty for several years. One item was a crack about 1/16" to 1/8" wide along the entire length of a drywall joint in a vaulted ceiling, about 14' long from outside wall to the top of the vaulted ceiling. The joint will not stay repaired. I had a professional repair it again later. Both used the standard tape and spackle approach.

I believe the problem is caused by expansion and contraction since I only keep the place heated at 50 degrees in the winter and for some reason, this joint is a critical spot. I tried to get a pro to do it again but they want at least $200 just to show up due to its remote location, plus the labor when they actually work. Since they have to come back several times to let things dry between stages, the cost is prohibitive. Then there is the issue that pros did not solve the problem the first 2 times. I've repaired lots of small cracks/holes over the years but never tackled anything this big.

I was considering cutting out the drywall at the studs on either side of the crack and inserting new drywall panel. My thought was that I could distribute the stress over 2 seams instead of one. However, on closer inspection it looks like manufactured homes use some alternative method of framing and drywalling ceilings as I am only finding studs every 4'. I've searched on line and the general consensus is that major ceiling drywall work on a manufactured home is a real PIA due to the unique construction methods.

On closer inspection, the crack is adjacent to the stud so one side is about 1/16" lower than the other and since there is no nearby stud there is no support so it hangs a little lower. I don't want to tear into the drywall to add support because I am afraid it would open a can of worms with this unique construction. Does someone offer a flexible spackle? I'm considering not using tape since it did not help on prior repairs, perhaps because the tape flexed? How about just using a good grade of caulk in the crack?


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

First, I would hope it was joint compound used and not spackle. That said, if this is a joint which is going to continue to move, no amount of joint compound and tape is going to help. I would go the caulk route.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Or trim it out with a moulding.


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## NVHoo (May 24, 2017)

*Good idea*



jlhaslip said:


> Or trim it out with a moulding.


Regarding spackle vs joint compound. Don't know since I did not do the work.

The trim out idea got me to thinking about faux beams since the crack is near the middle of the ceiling. Don't know that faux beams would work but got me thinking about tinning, etc.

Thanks for the advice


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## Fish_Stick (Feb 28, 2017)

Living in a mobile home I can tell you they are certainly built differently and obviously not for the better. What year of home is this? Roof type and shape? While I wouldn't totally be surprised if it really was that way, you should have something in between the 4 ft spacing. Generally they used furring strips to support the garbage ceiling panels they stapled every 14 inches or so. Being on the ceiling though it wouldn't surprise me that you're having some roof flex issues with wind. I'm lucky enough to have a shingled roof but my roof decking is only 3/8" ply and has some serious flex when you walk on it...

Foundations play a major part too since mobile homes regularly need to be leveled and shimmed. Are you still on wheels and jacks or is it a permanent foundation?

Something to keep in mind though is that depending on age, these things were put together with alot of glue, cull lumber, tons of staples and prayers that it made it to site.


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## lstevens (Sep 25, 2017)

For manufactured homes and quality it depends on the year (so coding requirements which only started in July of '76) and brand as some are exactly what they sell for, cheap.

But as Fish_Stick mentioned your foundation and leveling is potentially the problem, and not the temperature or weather.

If your foundation is not level then any repair is not going to hold and eventually give. Typically you want to recheck level on a "Block and Tie" home every 5 years.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> However, on closer inspection it looks like manufactured homes use some alternative method of framing and drywalling ceilings as I am only finding studs every 4'.


The odds are the framing is on 16" centers. Most things [rafter and drywall included] are smaller/thinner than on a conventional home. The older MHs used a truss system built out of 1x2s and scrap pieces of paneling. Closer examination should reveal the fastening points between the more visible 4' joints.


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