# Why does my chainsaw suck?



## Mark Harvey (Apr 20, 2009)

Jesse, Get gid of old gas as it gums up the carb and other parts needed for smooth operation. (Just turn it up side down) Also check the oil/gas ratio. ... your owners manual should let you know the proper mix. This mix, if not correct, causes rough operation and lack of power. As to sharpening, it's an art. Make sure you have the correct size file and, again, your manual should provide you with some tips. I, personally, try to sharpen my own but olso just put on a new chain when required. (the cost is better that the aggravation)


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

jpearson311 said:


> kept getting snagged in mid cut


With a cut more than 1/3 through the trunk the two pieces may close up or twist, or both, in unpredictable ways. Sometimes putting a plastic wedge in the kerf in back of the blade delays this nuisance.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

You can buy a tune up kit for less than $20, will typically include a new spark plug, a new air cleaner, and a new fuel filter (the filter is typically in the tank). Also usually includes a can of oil to mix with the fuel. Make sure the plug is properly tightened, a loose plug will lead to loss of compression and poor running.

A few other things to check. Make sure the chain is greased correctly if it has a sprocket nose bar. Lithium grease works well for that. Adjust the carburetor if you have the instruction manual. You can get a lot of manuals on line these days.

Sharpening a chain is relatively easy if you have a jig. I just purchased a Granberg chain sharpener, cost about $35 from Northern Tool, seems to work very well. The best chain saw in the world won't work with a dull chain. Also make sure the tension is correct on the chain, there should be very little sag, but it should still turn freely. Chain tension tends to change as the chain gets warm, you should check it whenever you stop the saw.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Daniel Holzman said:


> You can buy a tune up kit for less than $20, will typically include a new spark plug, a new air cleaner, and a new fuel filter (the filter is typically in the tank). Also usually includes a can of oil to mix with the fuel. Make sure the plug is properly tightened, a loose plug will lead to loss of compression and poor running.
> 
> A few other things to check. Make sure the chain is greased correctly if it has a sprocket nose bar. Lithium grease works well for that. Adjust the carburetor if you have the instruction manual. You can get a lot of manuals on line these days.
> 
> Sharpening a chain is relatively easy if you have a jig. I just purchased a Granberg chain sharpener, cost about $35 from Northern Tool, seems to work very well. The best chain saw in the world won't work with a dull chain. Also make sure the tension is correct on the chain, there should be very little sag, but it should still turn freely. Chain tension tends to change as the chain gets warm, you should check it whenever you stop the saw.


Ok so I replaced the spark plug, changed the fuel/oil, cleaned the muffler screen, cleaned the air filter, cleaned the chain, the chain bar, but I still can't get the damn thing to start. Perhaps the carb needs adjusted? I have no idea how to do that.

Jesse


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

jpearson311 said:


> Perhaps the carb needs adjusted? I have no idea how to do that.
> Jesse


The jets in the carb are probably gummed up from the old fuel. I would bring it to a small engine repair shop and get it running right. A poorly running chain saw is just about the most aggravating tool on the planet as far as I'm concerned.

Get rid of the old gas mix, and put a fuel stabilizer in the new fuel. For long term storage, it is still best to empty the tank, and burn all the fuel out of the system.

As for the chain not turning,if you did not have it pinched in the cut, either it has too much slack and needs to be tightened, or the drive sprocket is stripped.


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

One year old chainsaw left over the winter with fuel in the tank...yep...gummed up is right. Simple fix: get a can of Sea Foam, pour an ounce or two in with your fresh fuel, disconnect the spark plug wire, give it a few pulls to push fuel through the motor, then let it sit overnight. Next day reconnect the plug wire and try to start it up. Should fire within a few pulls, smoke like hell for a couple minutes, then run fine.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

ratherbefishin' said:


> One year old chainsaw left over the winter with fuel in the tank...yep...gummed up is right. Simple fix: get a can of Sea Foam, pour an ounce or two in with your fresh fuel, disconnect the spark plug wire, give it a few pulls to push fuel through the motor, then let it sit overnight. Next day reconnect the plug wire and try to start it up. Should fire within a few pulls, smoke like hell for a couple minutes, then run fine.


Ok great. Where can I buy this sea foam stuff? Also, I can easily turn the saw on it's side to dump the fuel out of the tank, but there is still fuel in the line. It has a priming bulb on it, which leaves fuel in there. Should I worry about this?

Jesse


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

jpearson311 said:


> Ok great. Where can I buy this sea foam stuff? Also, I can easily turn the saw on it's side to dump the fuel out of the tank, but there is still fuel in the line. It has a priming bulb on it, which leaves fuel in there. Should I worry about this?
> 
> Jesse


Any auto parts store. I think Wally World carries it now, too. There's nothing better for cleaning a 2-cycle. It also acts as a fuel stabilizer.
After you drain the tank, go ahead and push that primer bulb a few times to clear it, then prime after you refill with the fresh mix so it gets through the whole system and clears all the gum and varnish.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

ratherbefishin' said:


> Any auto parts store. I think Wally World carries it now, too. There's nothing better for cleaning a 2-cycle. It also acts as a fuel stabilizer.
> After you drain the tank, go ahead and push that primer bulb a few times to clear it, then prime after you refill with the fresh mix so it gets through the whole system and clears all the gum and varnish.


Ok. Should I replace the fuel filter?

Jesse


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## ratherbefishin' (Jun 16, 2007)

Yeah, good idea to replace the filter. The cleaner will usually clear a filter no older than yours, but it's better to just start with a fresh one. When you said the plug was corroded, did you mean actually pitted and damaged, or is it just fouled?
Also, heed the advice from others about chain slack and sprocket. I'd add check the chain oiler as well and be sure you're using it properly if it's manual.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

ratherbefishin' said:


> Yeah, good idea to replace the filter. The cleaner will usually clear a filter no older than yours, but it's better to just start with a fresh one. When you said the plug was corroded, did you mean actually pitted and damaged, or is it just fouled?
> Also, heed the advice from others about chain slack and sprocket. I'd add check the chain oiler as well and be sure you're using it properly if it's manual.


Well I went and bought seafoam yesterday when I got off work, dumped out the old gas, poured about 2 oz. of seafoam in along with new gas/oil mix. Primed it a few times and pulled the cord a few times. It's been sitting for about 16 hours. I'll try it again when I get home. The plug was just fouled. It wasn't damaged in any way. Just covered in black soot. The chain oiler is automatic and I didn't change the fuel filter. We'll see.

Jesse


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

troubleseeker said:


> The jets in the carb are probably gummed up from the old fuel. I would bring it to a small engine repair shop and get it running right. A poorly running chain saw is just about the most aggravating tool on the planet as far as I'm concerned.
> 
> Get rid of the old gas mix, and put a fuel stabilizer in the new fuel. For long term storage, it is still best to empty the tank, and burn all the fuel out of the system.
> 
> As for the chain not turning,if you did not have it pinched in the cut, either it has too much slack and needs to be tightened, or the drive sprocket is stripped.


I was able to rotate the chain just fine yesterday by pulling it with my hand so I think it's all good there. I also bought a chain sharpening kit yesterday online. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VYGEGE/ref=oss_product

Jesse


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

ratherbefishin' said:


> Yeah, good idea to replace the filter. The cleaner will usually clear a filter no older than yours, but it's better to just start with a fresh one. When you said the plug was corroded, did you mean actually pitted and damaged, or is it just fouled?
> Also, heed the advice from others about chain slack and sprocket. I'd add check the chain oiler as well and be sure you're using it properly if it's manual.


Ok man, I put some seafoam in with new gas/oil mix, let it sit for 24 hours and tried to start it. It didn't start. I took off the top cover and cleaned out the spark plug cap. I reattached the cap and gave it a few pulls. It was sparking just fine. I put the cover back on, tried to start it again and it didn't start. Any idea?

Jesse


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## Cmudr1 (Jan 15, 2009)

That seafoam helps to remove all the gunk and buildup which is why it will smoke A Lot once it starts running. You did dump all that old gas out right. Maybe pull the spark plug and dump anything out thats sitting in there and start with good gas. Then I would try spraying a little starting fluid in where the spark plug goes and then replacing and try starting it. If you get it up and runnig it should start burning all that gunk n sea foam out and run way better. Once it starts to run you should be in the clear.

edit* I also just noticed you said you didnt change the fuel filter. That could be starving it for fuel. If you dont replace at least clean it real good, you need to get all that old junk out then it should run great.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Cmudr1 said:


> That seafoam helps to remove all the gunk and buildup which is why it will smoke A Lot once it starts running. You did dump all that old gas out right. Maybe pull the spark plug and dump anything out thats sitting in there and start with good gas. Then I would try spraying a little starting fluid in where the spark plug goes and then replacing and try starting it. If you get it up and runnig it should start burning all that gunk n sea foam out and run way better. Once it starts to run you should be in the clear.
> 
> edit* I also just noticed you said you didnt change the fuel filter. That could be starving it for fuel. If you dont replace at least clean it real good, you need to get all that old junk out then it should run great.


I dumped out the old gas. However, I didn't dump out anything under the spark plug and I didn't change the fuel filter. I'll try dumping under the plug now. More to come...

Jesse


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Cmudr1 said:


> That seafoam helps to remove all the gunk and buildup which is why it will smoke A Lot once it starts running. You did dump all that old gas out right. Maybe pull the spark plug and dump anything out thats sitting in there and start with good gas. Then I would try spraying a little starting fluid in where the spark plug goes and then replacing and try starting it. If you get it up and runnig it should start burning all that gunk n sea foam out and run way better. Once it starts to run you should be in the clear.
> 
> edit* I also just noticed you said you didnt change the fuel filter. That could be starving it for fuel. If you dont replace at least clean it real good, you need to get all that old junk out then it should run great.


Just took out the spark plug and tried to dump out anything inside of it, but nothing came out. I cleaned off the spark plug real well and sprayed some PB blaster inside there. I didn't have any starter fluid. It still didn't start. I don't know what else to do.

Jesse


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## Cmudr1 (Jan 15, 2009)

That PB blaster isnt as combustible as starter fluid or even gas so I doubt it was much help. Pull the plug and let it sit for 30 mins or so the engine could have gotten flooded so let it just sit a while. A can of starter fluid always helps when Im having trouble getting stuff going. I pull the plug spray a couple shots into the cylinder, replace plug, pull the choke wide open and crank it. Shouldnt need to prime it at all. The starter fluid will let it run for about 3-5 seconds. 

I would try that a few times then go back to normal starting routine. Prime it, pull the choke out and crank it 3 times. If not running then push choke in and crank it 5-7 good hard times.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Cmudr1 said:


> That PB blaster isnt as combustible as starter fluid or even gas so I doubt it was much help. Pull the plug and let it sit for 30 mins or so the engine could have gotten flooded so let it just sit a while. A can of starter fluid always helps when Im having trouble getting stuff going. I pull the plug spray a couple shots into the cylinder, replace plug, pull the choke wide open and crank it. Shouldnt need to prime it at all. The starter fluid will let it run for about 3-5 seconds.
> 
> I would try that a few times then go back to normal starting routine. Prime it, pull the choke out and crank it 3 times. If not running then push choke in and crank it 5-7 good hard times.


Ok. Is there starter fluid for 2 cycle engines or can I just go to autozone and buy any starter fluid?

Jesse


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## Cmudr1 (Jan 15, 2009)

Any kind should do. Autozone, Walmart, it should be easy to find. Best of luck, let us know how it goes.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Cmudr1 said:


> Any kind should do. Autozone, Walmart, it should be easy to find. Best of luck, let us know how it goes.


Will do. Thanks!

Jesse


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

UPDATE. I tried the seafoam, didn't work, bought starter fluid today, it didn't work either. Took it back to sears 2 hours ago, told them it wouldn't start, so I exchanged it for an 18" 42CC. It cost me $12.80.

New saw here. Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it.

Jesse


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## Cmudr1 (Jan 15, 2009)

Nice! Too bad you still couldnt get it running but now you have a nice new one :thumbup:

Just don't forget to drain all that gas before storing it :tongue_smilie:


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Cmudr1 said:


> Nice! Too bad you still couldnt get it running but now you have a nice new one :thumbup:
> 
> Just don't forget to drain all that gas before storing it :tongue_smilie:


I will! Thanks Cmudr1! When I store it, should I clean the lines at all? Also, the manual said I should pour some 2-cycle oil in the cylinder when I store it over the winter. Good idea? Thanks!

Jesse


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## Cmudr1 (Jan 15, 2009)

You could drain the tank then run it for a few til it burns all the gas out of the lines too. Never heard of the oil part but if the manual says to then it should be fine. Seems like it may help coat it to keep it protected from temp changes, condensation and such.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I switched to a Pro saw a few years ago
I was tired of problems from Craftsman saw & other lower end saws
I bought a Husqvarna 570 with a 28" bar & a 20" bar
It has 4.9hp - the difference between the old craftsman saw & the husqy are like nite & day
Never a problem to start it up each year...almost time to get it going

I do cut a lot of wood tho


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> I switched to a Pro saw a few years ago
> I was tired of problems from Craftsman saw & other lower end saws
> I bought a Husqvarna 570 with a 28" bar & a 20" bar
> It has 4.9hp - the difference between the old craftsman saw & the husqy are like nite & day
> ...


Yeah I looked at the Husqvarnas and I know they're nice, but very expensive and beyond what I need them for. I'm a web designer for a living, but a DIY warrior on the weekends. This is the husq that I looked at.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...n&cName=Handheld+Power+Tools&sName=Chain+Saws


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yup, I looked at that model too
I ended up on a Forestry site & ended up with a better model for not much more
But I've been heating with wood for over 12 years - so a good saw was needed
Last house was mostly wood heat, this house maybe 1/2 & 1/2


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Yup, I looked at that model too
> I ended up on a Forestry site & ended up with a better model for not much more
> But I've been heating with wood for over 12 years - so a good saw was needed
> Last house was mostly wood heat, this house maybe 1/2 & 1/2


You're not gonna believe it, but the saw I bought yesterday didn't start today! I tried like crazy. Ended up taking it back and exchanging it for the black one. Extra chain too! It cut like through 16'' logs today like butter. Yeehaw!

Jesse


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## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

just throwing it out there did you fill the chain oiler tank?? it might not start without the chain oiler tank filled.


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## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

oldrivers said:


> just throwing it out there did you fill the chain oiler tank?? it might not start without the chain oiler tank filled.


Yes I did.


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