# Recessed Cans fall right in the middle of my drywall seam... What do i do??



## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

Basically if i start my 4x8 foot sheet in the corner, the recessed can will fall directly on the seam that i will have to finish. I'm assuming i cannot mud and tape a seam with a recessed can in the middle of it. The only other option i believe i have is to start my sheet 2 feet out from the wall, so that the cans fall in the middle of the sheet. This sucks because i will have much more taping to do,obviously because I will have to start the drywall out about 2 feet on each side of the wall

the ceiling dimensions are 148X216 inches.

I realize that i can hang the drywall parallel to the studs, however i really do not want to do that, I want to do it the correct way, 90 degrees to the studs. 

any ideas on how i should lay out my drywall

p.s. im using 5/8 on the ceiling and 1/2 on the walls


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## perpetual98 (Nov 2, 2007)

Can't you use 10' or 12' sheets?


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

perpetual98 said:


> Can't you use 10' or 12' sheets?



I already purchased the dryall. The length of the sheets doesnt matter, its the width.


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

Wanted to put up a couple of pics so you get the idea of what im talking about. No matter what wall i start hanging from, the cans fall right on the middle of a 48 " seam.


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

another pic


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

I guess i could hang the sheets parallel along the studs, however i want to avoid as many "waves" as i can. 
I have already shimmed some of the low studs. Any ideas??


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

You CAN ABSOLUTELY have a seam at a recessed light opening. That happens all the time. Same concept as electrical light switches. They always fall in the middle of 4' sheets, placed on the horizontal.


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## perpetual98 (Nov 2, 2007)

If you cut the first sheet in half, you'd only end up with 1 extra seam to tape, right?


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> You CAN ABSOLUTELY have a seam at a recessed light opening. That happens all the time.


Really???? I figured someone would tell me that it would make that area much more susceptable to cracking or something like that. 

Are there any special instructions i need to know when i get ready to tape and mud that area???


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

perpetual98 said:


> If you cut the first sheet in half, you'd only end up with 1 extra seam to tape, right?


One side already has to be cut in half because the ceiling width is 148". Im trying to avoid having to cut another sheet


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

AndyH said:


> Really???? I figured someone would tell me that it would make that area much more susceptable to cracking or something like that.
> 
> Are there any special instructions i need to know when i get ready to tape and mud that area???


Normally, we install strapping 16" OC, over the underside of the joists. That allows the placement of the additonal strapping lengths (which serve as a screwing surface), closer to the recessed can's lip.


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> Normally, we install strapping 16" OC, over the underside of the joists. That allows the placement of the additonal strapping lengths (which serve as a screwing surface), closer to the recessed can's lip.



Well... Do u think ill be okay if my recessed light cut out have to be made in the middle of my tapered edges??


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

When you attach your sheet. Router, or cut out the light opening. Then place a 12" length of strapping near the light. Hold it, so that it is 1/2 on the attached sheet, and 1/2, protruding out. It will be perpendicular to the attached sheet, and right next to the light's lip. Hold it tightly, and install about 3 to 4 dryall screws into the sheet (and thru the strapping behind it) to attach them solidly together.

Do this on one side of the light. Then attach another 12" length on the other side of the light. The strapping should be firmly attached. 
When you install the next sheet, you will cut out the light openings, and install screws thru the edge of the next sheet and into the strapping that is attached to the other sheet. That will lock the floating edge seam together.


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> When you attach your sheet. Router, or cut out the light opening. Then place a 12" length of strapping near the light. Hold it, so that it is 1/2 on the attached sheet, and 1/2, protruding out. It will be perpendicular to the attached sheet, and right next the the light's lip. Hold it tightly, and install about 3 dryall screws into the sheet to attach it solidly to the it.
> 
> Do this on one side of the light. Then attach another 12" length on the other side of the light. The strapping should be firmly attached.
> When you install the next sheet, you will cut out the light openings, and install screws thru the edge of the next sheet and into the strapping that is attached to the other sheet. That will lock the floating edge seam together.


Gotcha, thanks !!!!


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

Now that i imagine it. The way i have position the lights to make it even, i will only be able to put one peice of strapping. Not all the lights are perfectly center in the studs. I had to adjust a few of them. The seam is going to go DIRECTLY through the middle of the light opening.


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Why not start at the other wall, where you plan to have a half-sheet. Start over there with a full sheet. Then your seam will move over 24", right?


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

well i have been working on a layout. I honestly think it will be easier if i adjust my layout, even though this will create a few more butt seams. I dont see how i can effectively apply strapping the was these lights are located. If i just leave them the way they are and don't apply strapping, will those tapered edges crack near the lights????


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

NateHanson said:


> Why not start at the other wall, where you plan to have a half-sheet. Start over there with a full sheet. Then your seam will move over 24", right?[/quote
> 
> both rows of lights are directly in the middle of a seam


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Ah. I see. Two rows of lights.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

AndyH said:


> Now that i imagine it. The way i have position the lights to make it even, i will only be able to put one peice of strapping. Not all the lights are perfectly center in the studs. I had to adjust a few of them. The seam is going to go DIRECTLY through the middle of the light opening.


FWIW: By your picture, it could still be done. The strapping does not have to be right next to the light. You can float the last several inches of the seam, and not have a problem, especially, since it is 5/8".

Your other solutions are:

1.) Attach strapping over all the floor joists. Install extra sections around the lights (Standard method for such an area). FWIW: I never attach sheetrock directly to joists. There are too many irregularities, and non-uniformity of the joist's surfaces. The strapping takes care of such things as the issue that you are dealing with, among other advantages...

2.) Offset the seam as suggested by either doing 24" rips, or other.

Example of 1.):


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## AndyH (Mar 10, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> FWIW: By your picture, it could still be done. The strapping does not have to be right next to the light. You can float the last several inches of the seam, and not have a problem, especially, since it is 5/8".
> 
> Your other solutions are:
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot for your help. Unfortunately i am already over budget and time. I will make the best of what i have....


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