# Leaks around chimney after new roof was put on



## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

What were the roofers doing with a bag of mortar?- Usually they just slop on black goop!

Mortar is not used for chimney cap or a crown.

Somebody did something that caused a new water problem. - I put my money on a bad job of flashing. If the chimney is 5' across, it may need a cricket.


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## USP45 (Dec 14, 2007)

I agree with the "Cricket". This is a small "Roof" that runs into the chimney to break up the water flow and usually code states it must be 1/3 the width of the chimney, that is to say that a chimney 3 foot wide the cricket needs to be at least 1 foot 6 inch high.


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

Regarding the mortar, they said that they used it for the chimney cap.

With that "cricket," is that something that they were responsible for when they installed the new roof, or is it something that goes bad and we're responsible for?

The first time the roof leaked (about 2 weeks ago), he sent someone up (we saw the guy go up with a caulking gun), and he never came to the door to talk to us, so we figured it was all fixed.

This time, when we told the roofer that it was leaking again, he said that his guy (from that first visit) said something like he didn't think it was the flashings, but he thought it was the mortar (this is the first time he mentioned mortar to us as he didn't call us after the first time to let us know what was wrong---we figured they just fixed it.

He thinks it's the mortar because he said if it was the flashings, that it would leak every time it rained.

What do you think?


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## USP45 (Dec 14, 2007)

Framers are responsible as they should know it was needed. Roofers are not carpenters per say, if you ask them they should be able to do it though. Not that they could not do it, but they are a roofing company. Whenever we frame a house we are responsible for things like this. The pink area is whats called the cricket (Please do not laugh at my pix, I can not draw too good!)


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Run a garden hose first, if the roof is not too steep for you to safely go on it.

1st, let it run at roof shingle level continuously and see if any leak start after 15-30 minutes.

2nd, have the flowage, but not at high speed volume, strike just along the top of the new sheet metal counter flashings they installed. Do the side that you noticed the water stains from in the interior for about the same amount of time.

3rd, Let the water flow at the highest point of the brick work, so that it saturates all of the bricks below it.

Also, before you do any of that, you could take digital photos and take a shot of each side of the chimney showing the roof intersection and the top of the sheet metal counter-flashings. Also take a photo of the new chimney crown splash block they installed with Mortar??? Should have been concrete.

Ed


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

I'd put my money on lazy roofers trying to remove/replace roof without reworking the existing chimney flashing.


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

sounds like another crap flashing job,didn`t leak without the cricket before
You should post pictures of the chimney,and flashings as we3 can guess all day---you can easily see if the mortar joints are deteriorated,or have moss growing,my question is what does the cement cap look like where the replaced the top cement-probably a poor job,wrong mix type etc.--usually tarring the flashings,although crappy will stop a leak there-POST PICS
\


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

Sorry that I don't have pictures to post, but I was up on the roof with the roofer today. He said that the problem is not from the roof work that he just completed. He said that it's from the mortar outside of our chimney, and that his installing our new roof aggravated the problem. So he'll be sending somone he knows who fixes these kinds of problems out to have a look. I will keep you posted as to what he has to say and the cost.


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

He said that the problem is not from the roof work that he just completed. He said that it's from the mortar outside of our chimney, and that his installing our new roof aggravated the problem. -----wow,something doesn`t sound right there,never heard of a roof job aggravating chimney mortar---did he wear a tophat ??


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## johnk (May 1, 2007)

The new roof aggravated the mortar?I smell B.S:no:


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## johnk (May 1, 2007)

I could see them "aggravating" the mortar where the flashings go in during tear-off if they weren't careful.If thats the case they definitely should have noticed the damage and corrected it accordingly.My guess to is they re-used old flashings:no:


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## Allison1888 (Mar 16, 2008)

*roof leak*

I agree that it sounds like the roofer did not do a thorough job. The flashing is key to the whole things, as it is your line of defense against water. Here's an article with a good diagram about how flashing should be installed. Good luck!

http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/14072.shtml


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

The mason went up on the roof and said to "tuck point it and put a better cap on the flu." The charge for him fixing the problem would cost us $415. It was also suggested that we have the whole thing sprayed with a sealer, but I didn't get a price on having that done as well. Sound in line to you?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Yes, that is reasonable. The sealer should not cost too much as an add on, so get that too.

Make sure the flashings are not the source of the leak first though, otherwise you will be spending good money for bad results.

Ed


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

Any idea how much the sealer should cost me?

I personally thought that the problem was with the new flashings as the roof never leaked before this new roof was put on, but they assured me that's not the problem.

Thanks for taking the time to write.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Product Description:
http://www.chimneysaver.com/

Price on e-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CHIMNEY-SAVER-WATER-REPELLENT_W0QQitemZ330222543371QQcmdZViewItem

Another good Chimney Supply House:
http://www.copperfield.com/#

Ed


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

Thanks, Ed, for those links for the sealer.

To recap: I have to have some work done on my chimney: (1) tuck point it and (2) a lot of the mortar replaced on the outside blocks on the top part of the chimney about 8 rows up from the top. This is to repair the leaking coming into the house down both sides of the brick fireplace walls. They also recommended that I have it sealed. Question: Should the sealing be done right after this masonry work is done, or should it wait a few months after this repair work is done in order to allow time for the mortar to cure?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I can't recall what is recommended by the Masonry books I have read right now, but if it is dry and warm weather, I would wait at least 48 hours if that is a concern.

Now I have to look something else up, just to be certain that the advice is accurate. 

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

you need to wait longer,cement takes a very long time to dry,anywhere from 45-60 days would be more accurate,so moisture doesn`t affect any sealers applied


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

I'm glad you reminded me to look that up. I will check out my masonry books when I get to the office later this afternoon.

Thanks. I do not recall them saying to wait that long, but I will find out.

Ed


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

What would you recommend my using to fix the staining on the interior brick walls that the rain caused? The mortar has stained quite a bit (white and yellow).


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

10% sulfuric acid and 90% water.

Have PLENTY of ventilation.

Rough bristle brush to rub the stains with.

Safety goggles for your eyes.

Cover everyting that can possibly be splattered with a very heavy rubber tarp material.

Try just soap and hot water first though, plus that will show you how much splatter there wil be.

I actually think you should repost this portion of the question in the masonry section, especially for safety reasons.

Ed


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## proofer (Jan 20, 2008)

Thanks, Ed, for the quick reply. I think I'll try the soap and water first as you recommended, seeing that that's less invasive than sulfuric acid. But if I needed to buy sulfuric acid, where would I get the stuff.

Someone mentioned using vinegar. Do you think that would work?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Home Deopt sells Sulfuric acid.

Try anything else first. Vinegar, ammonia, clorox, 409, Simple Green, Fantastic, etc...

The masons should have the best advice on this part.

Ed


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## Dale Chomechko (Mar 11, 2008)

proofer said:


> We had a new roof put on (tear-down) in December. We've recently had two good rains, and there is leaking coming in at the front and back of the chimney and running down the face of both brick walls inside the house. Inside the house just below the ceiling, the water comes in about 5 feet across (on each of the brick walls) I think it could be the flashings that need fixed. The roofer says it could be the mortar. Hopefully it's the flashings and it will be covered under warranty. If it is the mortar, about how much would that cost if done by the roofer? Or is it something that I could do myself? I do have half a bag of mortar that the roofers left because when the roofers came out and installed the new roof, we needed a new chimney cap.


I hope your roofer mixed some of that acrylic stuff with his mortar as new mortar does not stick to old very well without it. You can repoint your own chimney & it could be that the counter flashings were loose & installing new roofdeck flashings were enough movement to create a problem. Also lots of roofers try to wrap the flashings around your chimney or skylights or don't know the proper way to snip then fold the sides with a 3" overhang.
Dale Chomechko(DC Roofing Inc)


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