# Drywall over plaster?



## pmoe (Dec 7, 2008)

How much thickness are you needing to build out? I'm wondering if you could pay someone to put plaster on plaster and build the wall out to where you need it.


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## Rob1980 (Apr 10, 2009)

The difference is 5/8". We'd really like to avoid having to pay someone else and save some $ since we don't have a lot to spend!


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## pmoe (Dec 7, 2008)

A google search came up with this -

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cda/a...IY_14407_2271391_ARTICLE-DETAIL-PRINT,00.html

I've never used one of those drywall hat/furring channels, so I can't comment. I'm not sure how much thickness they add to the wall. HTH.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I think I would try some flat head tapcon screws. It would take quite a few to get a good pattern, but in 5/8" drywall it might work.


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## Rob1980 (Apr 10, 2009)

Hmm, I tried google but couldn't find anything! Thanks, but that hat channel looks like it will add too much thickness.

We'll try those screws. Thanks!


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## Baron (Jan 6, 2009)

If the plaster has some strength also use construction adhesive on the walls first. That way if all your screws don't grab, you will be gaining a friendly glue helper along the way.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

The hat channel is about 7/8" deep. I'm not quite picturing the issue (pictures would help) but if you're going to attach directly to the plaster/concrete block, the tapcons aren't going to work. You have to drill a hole for the screw through the drywall and into the block. Once you break the face paper on the drywall you lose the structural integrity. (The ability of the screw to hold the board to the wall properly.) If you're going to cover it anyway, it would be worth knocking a hole to see if it actually IS block under the plaster. (Not common to have interior block walls.) If it is, in fact block, you can attach the drywall with "tension pins" and liberal use of drywall adhesive IF the wall is flat. Tension pins are small (1-1/8") concrete nails and I think you can get them at HD or Lowes (a drywall supply for sure). Apply your adhesive and just tack enough tension pins to hold the board until the glue sets. If you can't find tension pins, "fluted" concrete nails will work. They are much larger in diameter and you run the risk of the plaster breaking loose from the block before the nail is completely driven in. If the "chunks" if plaster get in between the drywall and the block/plaster you could have a problem. The tension pins are about the same diameter as a regular drywall nail (though a smaller head) and should pull up in the plaster with less risk of "blow out"....


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## Rob1980 (Apr 10, 2009)

bjbatlanta said:


> The hat channel is about 7/8" deep. I'm not quite picturing the issue (pictures would help)


Sorry, no camera, otherwise I would definitely have added photo's to show the 'issue'. We're basically trying to extend part of the wall out by 5/8" so it's the same depth as the rest of the wall. The reason we can't put up studs (that would be my first choice) is because the wall runs up the stairway, which is already narrow.



> but if you're going to attach directly to the plaster/concrete block, the tapcons aren't going to work. You have to drill a hole for the screw through the drywall and into the block. Once you break the face paper on the drywall you lose the structural integrity. (The ability of the screw to hold the board to the wall properly.)


I was hoping it would be that easy. We had guys come in to fix up our back door area where we have a foot gap between the back door and storm door. They put up concrete board, right up against the plaster/cinder block. I hoped we could do that with the drywall.



> If you're going to cover it anyway, it would be worth knocking a hole to see if it actually IS block under the plaster. (Not common to have interior block walls.)


When we took the moulding off there was a plasterless gap and we couldn't see any studs.



> If it is, in fact block, you can attach the drywall with "tension pins" and liberal use of drywall adhesive IF the wall is flat. Tension pins are small (1-1/8") concrete nails and I think you can get them at HD or Lowes (a drywall supply for sure). Apply your adhesive and just tack enough tension pins to hold the board until the glue sets. If you can't find tension pins, "fluted" concrete nails will work. They are much larger in diameter and you run the risk of the plaster breaking loose from the block before the nail is completely driven in. If the "chunks" if plaster get in between the drywall and the block/plaster you could have a problem. The tension pins are about the same diameter as a regular drywall nail (though a smaller head) and should pull up in the plaster with less risk of "blow out"....


The wall is not completely flat, but is not too far off, so would this still work? Do you think it would be a good idea to do a bit of plastering to get it flat and then do this?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Rob1980 said:


> Sorry, no camera, otherwise I would definitely have added photo's to show the 'issue'. We're basically trying to extend part of the wall out by 5/8" so it's the same depth as the rest of the wall. The reason we can't put up studs (that would be my first choice) is because the wall runs up the stairway, which is already narrow.
> 
> Kind of "seeing it" now. Sounds like 5/8" board would solve the problem...
> 
> ...


The drywall will tend to "take on the contour" of whatever is beneath it when you fasten it. You will get the same "waves" as the original wall whether it's plaster or bowed studs. The 5/8" is a bit more "forgiving", as it's more rigid and doesn't bend/bow nearly as easily as regular 1/2" drywall. I wouldn't worry about trying to level the existing wall as much as trying to make sure the glue and nails (whichever type you end up using) are hitting the "high spots" of the wall....


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sorry, some of my response became part of what I was trying to "quote". Should have called my 8 year old for help....


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