# pole building insulation question



## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

*pole building insulation question / vapor barrier*

we have a 30x40 pole barn structure that has a concrete floor. we have framed in the first 16 feet of this for a man cave so to speak. I am ready to insulate the room and put sheet rock up.

The building was insulated with a sheeting of sorts. does this insulation which is on the metal of the building need to come down in the area of the man cave before putting in R-13? Also I have a neighbor that insists on removing this along with installing a vapor barrier. I was under the impression that these are needed much more in the northern climates. I am in SC and was also under the impression that backed insulation is essentially the vapor barrier.

he has me concerned about condensation and moisture forming between the external insulation on the metal and the internal insulation for the frame.

someone educate me pleas


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Pictures are helpful in this case.

If the skin of the building is metal, you do have more condensation potential much like a steel roof over purlins.


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

maybe this one will work. You can see the sheeting insulation on the far wall.










better pic of the insulation









definitely a metal skin


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

anyone?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

It appears that the skinned insulation has a vapor retarded applied to it (i.e. something like a poly skrim insulation).

Is the exterior insulation fiberglass, foam, etc?

If there is an exterior vapor retarder, you need to make sure that you do not use and insulation that would form and vapor retarder (more than Class II) to the interior side. Two vapor retarders on either side of the wall is a recipe for disaster because it won't allow the wall to dry out if it gets wet.

Can you tell me more about the insulation on the outside wall?

Are you going to stud out the interior wall? If so, you could apply an EPS foam board between the stud wall and the exterior wall (depending on how the wall will be framed) and use an unfaced/unbacked R-13 batt. I would recommend that you use something like roxul or mineral wool instead of fiberglass.

This will give you the added R-value and allow the wall to dry to the interior if it needs to.


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

I have a call in to the company that built the building to get more clarification on the insulation. It is a sheeting that was on a roll that I think they glued into place but can not be positive about that.

My limited knowledge on insulation, I had planned to just go with an R-13 between the studs. It is currently studded out and ready to go. Studs are in place on 16" centers and everything is locked down.

Thank you for the information


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

R-13 batt with and air tight interior wall (i.e. make sure you foam and seal around the outlets, baseboard, etc.


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

so an unbacked R13 mineral wool or roxul correct? Do not remove the buildings exterior insulation. And seal everything. 

There are interior walls involved, should I apply the same insulation there or just go to a normal R-13 fiberglass?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Yes.

Un-backed.

Inside walls (walls between conditioned spaces) don't really require insulation unless you are worried about noise.

If it is between conditioned and unconditioned space, yes...you need to insulate.


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## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

Let me know if I should start a new thread. Don’t ask for pix, I tried, too large to send.

Any way I have a 30 x 40 poll barn 2 stories, the second story is wood stick frame construction insulated and drywalled.
The lower is standard poll barn in general, steel over OSB. The inside lower is standard poll barn. The question is what type of insulation (with or without vapor barrier) would you suggest.


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

just heard from builder, they say its Solar Guard with vapor barrier, comparable to R-11. 

Assuming I should proceed as earlier stated.

Hardway, no issues with me. Feel free to leave it here or create new, up to you :thumbup:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Yes.

Same as above.


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

Can not find 23" roxul r13. Any reason not to use r15?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Should be fine.


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## bkanneg (Feb 13, 2012)

I have almost the exact same setup as you. 30 X 50 pole building with double bubble insulation around the walls and roof.

I am also trying to set up a man-cave in here. I am framing in the walls and putting up R-13 insulation in them. I was wondering what you are doing for the ceiling since there really isn't enough to attach drywall to right now they way it was built. I was thinking of putting up some sort of drop ceiling with ceiling tiles in it. Would that work? How do you put up insulation above those? Does the insulation just lay on top of the ceiling tiles?

I'm pretty much a newbie on this stuff, so I appreciate any suggestions you can provide.


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

I purchased manufactured beams made out of wood from a local building supply store. They were cheaper than just about every thing else and are rated for a 2nd floor. All I plan to do is put boxes up there etc.

these give me plenty to attach drywall with. I can also insulate normally.


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## bkanneg (Feb 13, 2012)

Looks like your roof is taller than mine. I'm not doing a ceiling like yours with beams. My roof trusses are about 4 - 5 feet apart. Any suggestions on how to put a ceiling in there? I'm trying to upload a pic for reference. I would like to just put up ceiling tiles. Can you just roll insulation on top of the ceiling tiles?


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## scuts (Jan 31, 2012)

I would let the pros chime in. If it were me with my limited knowledge I would go in with 2x6's between the trusses on 16-24" centers. Then use that for your sheetrock / ceiling track to screw to and roll the insulation on top of it. There should not be enough weight in the insulation to make the tiles have an issue. Then again you could blow it in to your liking.


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## Hardway (Dec 28, 2011)

Just throwing this out there, Dose steel breathe?



_Writer’s information is for discussion purpose only and should be confirmed by an independent source._
_I am not an expert and don’t claim to be, these are just my views and opinions._


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## bkanneg (Feb 13, 2012)

Any danger of the 2x6s causing the trusses to lose structural integrity? Could they hold all the 2x6s and drywall and insulation without putting too much stress on the tresses. Don't want the roof to fall in on my man cave!

Any structural engineers out there have any thoughts?


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