# Can an HDMI Booster work or not?



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

imo, the hdmi terminal design is CRAP. i have had so many connection problems. imo, these things are designed to break. on top of that, i have heard of the terminals on the actual gear having problems. 

1 tip, do not let the terminal hold the weight of the cable.


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh, try this. unplug, plug, unplug. plug, etc, many times.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks Fixin..

so you are saying the HDMI connections themselves are lousy, so a booster would really not buy anything but boost a crappy connection quicker?

What about the extra Cat6 cable?


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

they are fragile, imo. not only that, whatever they coat the terminals with causes long term problems. i have fixed a lot of electronics by just repluging many times . 

booster and cat6. i have no idea.


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

There are only two ways to correct this issue.



*First TRYING to use the installed HDMI cable:*

http://www.etherealhometheater.com/cables/hdmi/mhx-series/hdm-sr1a-w-15m-mhx-cable-cl-rated.html

Although, I have a feeling that your currently installed HDMI cable is not up to snuff, so this item may not actually fix the problem.

*Second using the installed Cat6 cable:*

http://www.etherealhometheater.com/extender/hdmitmextender-over-single-cat5e-6.html

Here again, IF the cable hasn't been installed properly, and terminated properly, this item will also not fix the problem.


*A little FWIW:*

Part of your problem is the length of the installed HDMI cable. I'm actually surprised it ever worked at all since the basic HDMI cable was never intended to be used at distances more than about 20', and at that long length, any small change and it's done for.


Here's something from the Ethereal site that may help you get a bit more understanding on why your system may have failed:

"Critical data can only be transmitted consistently when the internal content, lengths and geometry of the 19 wires are held in tight tolerance along the cables axis with the proper shielding surrounding them."

Meaning, a cheap poorly built HDMI cable can be a very problematic cable with any movement (all that plug, unplug, twist, turn, etc, etc).

As pointed out, these cables ARE very fragile. I've replaced many that suffered even minor abuse, and I will only replace with the Ethereal ones, since they are THE standard.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thx Ktkelly. I appreciate your detail.

The Cat6 cable was run along w the HDMI & Cat5. The Cat6 was pulled, but not terminated on either end. The HDMI cable makes a pretty tough run: up and out a floor cabinet into a stucco column, then thru a T&G ceiling and into the orig stucco wall via a hole, then down over wall plate board and out the stucco wall via a plastic electrical box, cover and into the back of the panasonic 55" TV.

From the posts here, sounds like connections, the cable run & distance are all suspect. Hopefully the Cat 6 can be solidly terminated w hi qual connectors and will drive the video signal that the HDMI cannot.

Thx again 
tstex


----------



## TheBobmanNH (Oct 23, 2012)

You generally can't "boost" a two-way digital signal, you can only actively repeat it, and with HDMI it becomes especially tricky thanks to HDCP.

50 feet is like a theoretical maximum for HDMI, so it's no surprise you're having issues. Aside from a different physical configuration there's not much magic you can do here.


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

While I'm at it I'm going to throw the installer under the bus. :laughing:

But before I do, I have to ask. Just what brand HDMI cable was installed, and how much did the cable cost you?



Were I to run a 50' HDMI cable, here is what I would have used:

http://www.etherealhometheater.com/...hdmitm-high-speed-with-ethernet-cable-12.html

$430.00  

But it would work. 



Anyway. Here's hoping the data cables haven't been ruined during installation. Sadly I see that quite often as well, since many installers have no idea what the bend ratio is for data lines, and that IS important.


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

my monoprice 30' cable has lasted about 7 years. its just every once & a while i have to replug it. the same as numerous 3' cables. 

the head unit in my truck uses the same type very small connectors in its flip down face.
its the same ****, poor connections. as i commonly have issues. contact cleaner helps for a while. 

its all junk. made to be junk. so that it goes bad long before it should, so you have to replace it.


----------



## MT Stringer (Oct 19, 2008)

I ran some HDMI cable through the wall into the ceiling and down to the TV. It was a 25 foot cable big and thick designed for in the wall service. The ends of the cable were thick and stiff, so I had to order a pair of pigtails that look like a regular cable. They are only about 12 inches long and flexible enough to make the connection behind the flat screen.

Hope this helps.
Mike


----------



## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

Signal degradation happens over long distances. 50ft just might be too far to be running the cable. Any way to move things so the distance between the TV & dvd player is shorter?


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

The HDMI cable and cost:

 Cabl Brand 50' High Speed HDMI 1.4 cable​ with ethernet 3D and 4K Compatible redmere​ repeater​ (HDMI from cabinet to TV)​ 1 159.99 159.99T

There is no way to shorten the run...

Looks like I am going to get the big banana...I paid for a solution, so I will expect one...I guess he will have to convert the Cat6 cable...he is getting back to me tomorrow.

Thanks
tstex


----------



## Hick (Nov 21, 2014)

What I mean by shortening the run is physically move the tv and/or dvd player closer together. 

I really cannot invision your setup without photos or anything..but why are they so far apart? I mean...do you insert the DVD in 1 room & have to walk all the way into another room just to watch tv? Is the Tv outside in the elements or something?

Just seems like an issue that could easily be solved with a 3-6ft HDMI cable & a power strip.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

As noted earlier, all the components except TV are in an enclosed vented cabinet at the end of am outdoor covered summer kitchen. This is 18 ft from the wall where thr Tv is mounted. You have to go out the end of s kitchen, up thru a stucco column, across and inside & T&G cedar ceiling, then inside the wall of the orig stucc house, down the wall then out the wall of an elextrical made outlet w a110 made outlet made next to it.

There is no other way to go and logistically that is it. The TV worked fine from Dec 2014 till 2 wks ago. The TV Is mounted on a stucco wall about 5/6 ft from ground in center of a 26ft W & 38ft L covered outdoor kitchen. I also have a $110 cover over TV when not on use. All components are inside a double vented metal frame, then hardy, then stucco 38" x 18' kitchen area on a 4" raised concerte slab. Granite sealed counter top 42" x 18'. 

Hope that helps. Roof is attacked to house w same composition shingles.

Regards,
tstex...typed w iPhone so I did not edit


----------



## MT Stringer (Oct 19, 2008)

Hook up another TV and see if you get the same results.


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

tstex said:


> The HDMI cable and cost:
> 
> Cabl Brand 50' High Speed HDMI 1.4 cable​ with ethernet 3D and 4K Compatible redmere​ repeater​ (HDMI from cabinet to TV)​ 1 159.99 159.99T
> 
> ...



Ah,

Some questionable, no name, HDMI cable. I noticed when I attempted to check the specifications, there was nothing, so I think you can pretty safely assume that this company has never submitted a cable for compliance testing.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

So, if I have one CAT 6 cable that has not been terminated, that was run w the HDMI, and a suspect HDMI, what are the best options?

Or, is there something else? Note, conduit was not run and w out jackhammaring for starters, running anything else is another construction project.

What should I tell the AV company either way?

Thank you for your help, I appreciate it.

tstex


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Since it's doubtful the HDMI will work, the installer needs to terminate and test the cat6, at a minimum.

Honestly, I have no idea why the cat6 wouldn't have been terminated and tested initially. A few short minutes and that task would have been done.


Whether or not you can get them to install a HDBT extender in place of the failed HDMI, at no additional cost, is pretty iffy, but it wouldn't hurt to ask, since the "system" needs something in order for it to work. Work permanently too.


They do it right, they get referrals, and don't have to use their time on something that isn't bringing in money. Biz 101


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thanks again.

Do you have a make model for the HDBT externder?

For the CAT6, what terminations parts (makes models) do you recommend to see if this works?

I called the comp you recommended, I believe Ethereal, and they recommended trying an HDMI booster for about $130.00. Said if it did not work, they would take it back, then said to wk w the CAT6 cable. I thought the booster offer was pretty generous.
Passed the above info to installer & he said he was working out some options w his vendors.

Will post back to the boards what he does & provide results, said he would be here this monday

Thx again,
tstex


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

****************UPDATE - SOL'N FOUND**************

The original installer tested an HDMI signal booster, but to no avail. So he did terminate the Cat6 w baylans and it worked great. Very clear HD picture and all functions were tested and worked: Comcast Cable/TV, DVD, stereo, etc. He honored his original bid and there was no cost. I now have a yr warranty on this set-up if there are any problems.

I do immensely appreciate everyone's help, feedback, comments and suggestions. I learned a lot. I will also ping the boards PRIOR to any other installs vs reactively Just really glad the Cat6 was initially run.

Finally, what would it cost and what are the components required if I ever had to set this up as a wifi connection? I am referring to getting the 55" Panasonic flatscreen to work fully w the Denon receiver, Comcast receiver and Sony DVD.

Thanks again everyone,
tstex


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Not sure what you mean by "Finally, what would [COLOR=blue !important]it cost[/COLOR] and what are the components required if I ever had to set this up as a wifi connection? I am referring to getting the 55" Panasonic flatscreen to work fully w the Denon receiver, Comcast receiver and Sony DVD.".


What is not working that you want working?


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Fair question.

All is working now, but if the CAT6 ever fails, I was just wanting to determine what a wifi connection would cost and what it would take to make it work?

Thx


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Well, I am back to square one now with the newly terminated/installed CAT6 & Baylans as I was previously w the HDMI cable and neither my Cable/TV or DVD player will work. I had to turn the TV on w the Panasonic Remote and I get this message"

"_No Signal. Ensure that the external device is turned on and properly connected to the TV's input. Select the source by pressing [INPUT] on the remote._

Again, everything was working Monday when he left, and all I did was turn-off the IR Remote. I powered up the system this evening and the radio worked fine, but when I switched it to DVD, nothing came on the TV. I could open and close the DVD player w the remote, but could not get the DVD player to play. I then hit CABLE and tried the TV, but the screen never even lit-up or displayed one character.

So, I went and got the Panasonic remote, and it turned on the TV, then I got the message above.

I am all ears, and pretty frustrated to say the least...

Thank you for all your help....tstex


----------



## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Brands & model numbers for EVERYTHING, including the HDMI extender he used, remote, etc, etc?


I take it all the source components are routed through the AVR?






As a test, try running direct from one of the sources, bypassing the AVR, over the new HDMI extender, and if you haven't do so with the old HDMI cable as well.

Also try turning on the TV before the source, as well as turning the source on before the TV.


Trying to do some long distance trouble shooting is a PIA.Especially so with HDMI.


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

Thank you Ktkelly....I will do so and follow up w you.

Appreciate it.


----------



## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

My BenQ W1070 projector is connected via a 50' run of Monoprice Redmere HDMI cable. I get a strong signal with no issues. :thumbsup:


----------



## tstex (Nov 14, 2014)

ktkelly,

good news, the baylan was replaced and it works fine now, all aspects: cable TV, radio, Blue Ray/DVD and all w the IR Remote control...hopefully the CAT6/Baylan will work for a long time. thanks again to all

Dave Sal, how is your cable run and what is the path like? inside/out, number of bends and types/degrees..what type of HDMI Cable is it? make/model?

Thx, tstex


----------



## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

tstex said:


> ktkelly,
> 
> good news, the baylan was replaced and it works fine now, all aspects: cable TV, radio, Blue Ray/DVD and all w the IR Remote control...hopefully the CAT6/Baylan will work for a long time. thanks again to all
> 
> ...


Look up Redmere HDMI cable on the Monoprice website. It's a pretty thin cable but costs more and is recommended for longer runs. In my experience it works great. I have it running through the crawl space. It terminates in HDMI wall plates, one on the family room wall (other side of crawl space) and then it goes up over the lower level bathroom ceiling, traveling to a second HDMI wall plate where the projector is mounted on the other side of the wall. No hard bends or anything.


----------

