# Basement drywall questions



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

There not going to get it much cheaper just be able to install it far faster and have it come out right.
If you have added 2 foam on the foundation, framed the walls out away from the foam, 
Used R-13 insulation and added a vapor barrier over the studs then there's no need to any special drywall.
5/8 on the walls is not going to do a thing to stop sound.
Truly want sound want sound proofing just using thicker sheet rock not going to do much.
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing-solutions/soundproof-a-ceiling/


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

joecaption said:


> There not going to get it much cheaper just be able to install it far faster and have it come out right.
> If you have added 2 foam on the foundation, framed the walls out away from the foam,
> Used R-13 insulation and added a vapor barrier over the studs then there's no need to any special drywall.
> 5/8 on the walls is not going to do a thing to stop sound.
> ...


Were going with just spray foam directly to the concrete.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Most dry wallers prefer to hang their own. They can eliminate taping problems as they go. As for price there is not much difference in a few sheets, if doing a whole house and they purchase a couple hundred sheets then they get a break.

I have went to a couple jobs where the HO hung the rock and it was so bad we had to remove it and start over. And some where the HO did a really good job. Not knowing your skill level makes your question a little hard to answer.


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## Aaron1085 (Mar 8, 2015)

I did 2" foam board on my foundation walls and then rolled R-13 insulation between all studs that I did myself. I then hired a pro to do the walls and ceiling , tape, mud and supplies. The price was definitely right and it'll come out far better and in a much faster time frame than I could achieve. 




Sent from my iPhone


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## Aaron1085 (Mar 8, 2015)

Not done yet, drywall, tape and mud went up yesterday. Sanding tomorrow. 


Sent from my iPhone


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

Aaron1085 said:


> Not done yet, drywall, tape and mud went up yesterday. Sanding tomorrow.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone


Would you mine me asking what kind of drywall you went with? How large is your basement, and how much was the project? I started getting a few quotes and they range from $4000 to $8000


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## darren (Nov 25, 2005)

ToolSeeker said:


> I have went to a couple jobs where the HO hung the rock and it was so bad we had to remove it and start over. And some where the HO did a really good job. Not knowing your skill level makes your question a little hard to answer.


What would a home owner do to make the drywall so bad you had to rip it out, I may learn a thing or two about how not to hang drywall.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

The biggest problem was trying to save pieces. This created many butt joints. Leaving too big a gap, and the cut outs for plugs and switches were cut wrong then the hole was too big or in the wrong place. Seams in the wrong place like the corner of a door or window where it is very likely to crack.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Toolseeker, I've also seen drywall hung and NOT NAILED TO ANY STUDS AT THE END OF THE PIECE. If the 8 footer ended up a foot shy of the next stud, they just left it like that and installed the next piece right next to it!!! One lean on the wall...........


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

I'm starting to reconsider doing this myself: if the only problem is the idiot installers, then I think I can handle the job myself. 

I think my biggest concern would be making sure I get the joints all correct.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Myron Ferguson has a really good book on drywalling if your unsure. There are some good videos on You Tube the problem being there is also some really bad ones.


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Myron Ferguson has a really good book on drywalling if your unsure. There are some good videos on You Tube the problem being there is also some really bad ones.


I'll have to look the book up. Does it have lots of pictures? (Hey, don't judge!)

I've been watching you tube videos, but certainly having a hard time with picking out the pros, vs the wannabes. I'm really having a hard time figuring out the hanging of drywall over outlets: some say to hang the corners and use a rotozip (which looks a lot cleaner) and others use some crazy tricks, like lipsticking the box then cutting then hanging...


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## spaceman spif (Jul 28, 2009)

I'd go with 5/8" for better soundproofing as well as a better fire rating. And don't install a vapor barrier behind it - that will trap moisture and lead to mold and mildew problems.

Also there's a great thread on here about fire block framing -
http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/

It's basically a way to help suppress any fires that may ignite behind the drywall and hopefully prevent it from spreading upstairs.


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

spaceman spif said:


> I'd go with 5/8" for better soundproofing as well as a better fire rating. And don't install a vapor barrier behind it - that will trap moisture and lead to mold and mildew problems.
> 
> Also there's a great thread on here about fire block framing -
> http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/
> ...


 Now I heard 5/8 makes for much more difficult door installations? Plus it's not stocked by the local big box stores (at least mold resistant versions)


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

There is no advantage to 5/8 on the walls. Yes the book has lots of pics. One word of caution buying your drywall at the box store will almost certainly get you the lightweight drywall which is causing more problems than it fixes. Now it's even causing problems with painting. You would be much better off to find a dry wall store.


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> There is no advantage to 5/8 on the walls. Yes the book has lots of pics. One word of caution buying your drywall at the box store will almost certainly get you the lightweight drywall which is causing more problems than it fixes. Now it's even causing problems with painting. You would be much better off to find a dry wall store.


Interesting. I was reading a few other threads, and the direction given was that the big box stores had the same quality drywall at better prices (due to bulk ordering). 

I guess I'll have to try and see if there are any drywall suppliers around who work with homeowners.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Check with your box store but where I am they all only sorry the lightweight. Could be different where you live.


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## gizzygone (Jul 26, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Check with your box store but where I am they all only sorry the lightweight. Could be different where you live.


It's hard to tell: my orange box store sells the Sheetrock mold tough ultralight which the specs online say 48lbs (obviously this must be the light weight version, given the name). 

The blue box store sells tough rock mold guard: it doesn't say lightweight and comes in at 57lbs per the specs online.... But I'm not sure if this is still considered lightweight or not.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Sorry my mistake I don't think the mold resistant comes in the lightweight I was thinking the regular drywall.


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

gizzygone said:


> Would you mine me asking what kind of drywall you went with? How large is your basement, and how much was the project? I started getting a few quotes and they range from $4000 to $8000


I just had drywall hung and finished on my "partial earth sheltered home" (see project showcase thread). I am in southern middle Tennessee. The hanging and finishing was $22 per 12 foot sheet. I got two quotes about same price. It pays to use 12 foot sheets as price is same whether 12 or 8. They used all the small pieces to the max and didn't try to waste material to bump up costs. I bought the 96 sheets from a commercial drywall supplier who had a monster truck with boom to deliver exactly to right spot to get into house. Final sanding tomorrow.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

ddsrph said:


> I just had drywall hung and finished on my "partial earth sheltered home" (see project showcase thread). I am in southern middle Tennessee. The hanging and finishing was $22 per 12 foot sheet. I got two quotes about same price. It pays to use 12 foot sheets as price is same whether 12 or 8. They used all the small pieces to the max and didn't try to waste material to bump up costs. I bought the 96 sheets from a commercial drywall supplier who had a monster truck with boom to deliver exactly to right spot to get into house. Final sanding tomorrow.



This is a huge feature a lot of DIY is not aware of.


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## Tytryon (Jun 3, 2016)

I'm guessing I'm too late to the party.

5/8" will help with noise, to a degree.

R 12 insulation in the joists will also help.

Poly is only an issue regarding "trapping" moisture if the opposing side is also vapour barriered.

Sound bar hung on your ceiling prior to drywall will help reduce vibrations and straighten out most irregularities in joists.

Applied to your joists with drywall screws then drywall applied to it.

If it was me..... 
Thickest insulation you can fit in your joists.
Poly.
Sound bar (installed opposite the way joists run)
5/8" drywall.

Advice from someone that has made a living from drywall since 1984.

PS... Box stores get the same drywall as drywall stores.

But it was brought up here earlier, drywall stores will deliver to the area 
You ask. Box stores ask you where you parked your truck.


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## KarenStein (May 30, 2016)

I have a few suggestions, that will probably re-open this discussion - completely!

Someone said (above) that drywall stores get the same drywall as the box stores. It would be better to say "Drywall suppliers have the same stuff as the home centers- plus a LOT more!" 

A drywall supply house has a selection of many different types of "drywall," all manner of hardware and associated stuff (that you never knew existed), and staff that KNOW the products. As also mentioned above, they also deliver.

Yes, "professional" supply houses almost always offer better pricing than the home centers.

Now, for the 'how to do it:"
1) Forgo the usual framing; instead, use "hat channel" (available at the supply house). Anchor it to the concrete / block walls by 'shooting' in anchors. 
What size hat channel? Size it to match your STEEL electric boxes. The boxes also get 'shot' to the wall; then use a 'mud ring' to penetrate the drywall.

2) Make it all 'mold resistant.' That means paperless drywall (at least) and "hot" (setting type- you mix the powder as you need it) mud with fiberglass joint tape.

3) Attaching the rock to the ceiling by using 'Z channel' (also from the supply house) will help reduce sound transmission between floors.

4) Insulate the walls with rigid foam board; space the insulation slightly off the walls with a dimpled plastic sheet, to allow moisture to drain. Have the drywall stop AT LEAST an inch above the floor. You can conceal this gap with plastic molding. Finally,

5) 12-foot board sound nice, but don't forget you have to be able to get them into the basement!


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## Tytryon (Jun 3, 2016)

KarenStein said:


> I have a few suggestions, that will probably re-open this discussion - completely!
> 
> Someone said (above) that drywall stores get the same drywall as the box stores. It would be better to say "Drywall suppliers have the same stuff as the home centers- plus a LOT more!"
> 
> ...


I don't know where this was copied and pasted from but I disagree with virtually everything someone else said.

Drywall supply store will always be more money(but they are worth it)

You can load 14' board in a basement unless we are talking about 40 yr old homes.

Someone mention 16' drywall as a regular length. It's not, you can get it if you order 1000 sheets from the manufacturer.

They actually make you any length you want if you order enough sheets (special run)

Paperless drywall?? Where is this?


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## KarenStein (May 30, 2016)

"Paperless drywall?? Where is this?"

In reply, please look at the following link. National Gypsum makes quite a variety of paper-less drywall - and I'm not even counting the various tile backing products. I expect US Gypsum has a similar product as well.

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/products/Product.aspx?ProductID=2366


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## Tytryon (Jun 3, 2016)

KarenStein said:


> "Paperless drywall?? Where is this?"
> 
> In reply, please look at the following link. National Gypsum makes quite a variety of paper-less drywall - and I'm not even counting the various tile backing products. I expect US Gypsum has a similar product as well.
> 
> http://www.nationalgypsum.com/products/Product.aspx?ProductID=2366


Pretty hard to tape and paint tile backer board. I think tile backer board is used as a.... As a...umm... Tile backer. Durarock is what we have here. It isn't drywall, and I wouldn't recommend it for a typical basement application unless it's a basement sauna. And as for your other product, I read up on it. 

I'd copy and paste what's wrong with it but I'll leave that up to the experts.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

To me the biggest advantage with the drywall suppliers is in my area they DO NOT carry lightweight drywall. To me that alone is worth driving out of my way even if I only need a couple sheets and have to drive past a box store. 

They also carry 16' sheets, paperless, and 54" sheets. Some carry rental tools. They have better selection of beads. And the guy your talking to wasn't working in the flower dept. last week.

As far as 12' sheets in the basement I have been in newer homes where getting 8' sheets in the basement was a challenge.


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## Tytryon (Jun 3, 2016)

ToolSeeker said:


> To me the biggest advantage with the drywall suppliers is in my area they DO NOT carry lightweight drywall. To me that alone is worth driving out of my way even if I only need a couple sheets and have to drive past a box store.
> 
> They also carry 16' sheets, paperless, and 54" sheets. Some carry rental tools. They have better selection of beads. And the guy your talking to wasn't working in the flower dept. last week.
> 
> As far as 12' sheets in the basement I have been in newer homes where getting 8' sheets in the basement was a challenge.


Here for at least 20 yrs, all basements require windows with at least a 52" opening. 2 stories require a hatch (hole) on an outside wall to boom drywall.

Agree about supply stores, good thing to not deal with a kid that was in gardening the week before


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