# setting wall sheetrock horizontally



## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

if i am setting my sheetrock horizontally instead of vertically (i.e. panels of 48" height stacked atop one another), since my ceiling height is >96", does there have to be a horizontal 2x4 connector in between the studs where two sheets meet, kind of like equivalent to how it is with vertical studs?

thanks


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

No. You don't need blocking where they meet in the middle.
And it is pretty standard to run your sheets horizontal.
Hold the top sheet tight to the ceiling, and then the bottom sheet tight to that one, with the gap at the floor.


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## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

sweet. thanks dude


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You did install the cieling with 5/8 rock first, right? And always set the top piece first, make sure the seams land in the middle of a stud, When installing the second row do not have the vertcal seams line with the piece above.


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## amakarevic (Apr 12, 2007)

joecaption said:


> You did install the cieling with 5/8 rock first, right? And always set the top piece first, make sure the seams land in the middle of a stud, When installing the second row do not have the vertcal seams line with the piece above.


got that, chief :thumbsup:


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

we mostly use 1/2" ceiling sheetrock here, it has fibres in it for ceiling application.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Ceiling codes vary---here 1/2 " is fine--check the local codes.


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## luckyrabbit (Jan 4, 2012)

I know it was said .. but just reaffirming.. "stagger the joints" so you don't have 8 or 12 foot butt joints. easier to tape and mud properly if boarded properly.

LR


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## teeman11 (Jan 26, 2012)

What if you ceiling is 112 inches? I heard that you should put the extra strip (15-16") in the middle because it's easy to mud those two joints at waist height instead of one down at floor level. Is that correct?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

That would leave an untapered edge in the middle of the wall, a big no no.
It will show when finished.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

teeman11 said:


> What if you ceiling is 112 inches? I heard that you should put the extra strip (15-16") in the middle because it's easy to mud those two joints at waist height instead of one down at floor level. Is that correct?


I've seen/done it both ways. Easier to finish when the joints are directly in front of you. Course, age may have something to do with it.....

A few pro drywall members here, they should check-in sooner or later.......

Just be sure to air seal the cavities behind the insulation first. Then air seal the drywall: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach/
Especially if you have fiberglass cavity insulation.

Gary


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## kwilcox (Nov 19, 2011)

I always use these and never land a vertical seam on a stud:

http://www.ezbacker.com/rock_splicer.html


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## anesthes (Jan 21, 2011)

kwilcox said:


> I always use these and never land a vertical seam on a stud:
> 
> http://www.ezbacker.com/rock_splicer.html


No problems with wall insulation pushing against it?

-- Joe


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## kwilcox (Nov 19, 2011)

Never had any. The joint is really strong.


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## anesthes (Jan 21, 2011)

kwilcox said:


> Never had any. The joint is really strong.


Where can I actually order some? The website doesn't appear to have a checkout, and the price list is blank?

-- Joe


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Willie T had a link to fine Home building--simple instructions on making your own---4 days ago?

Look for a post with 'butt boards' in the title


Drywall (Butt Boards) - Drywall - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

anesthes said:


> Where can I actually order some? The website doesn't appear to have a checkout, and the price list is blank?
> 
> -- Joe


Joe, a box of 20 is $73.00

http://www.thatdrywallguy.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=rock+splicer&x=10&y=6


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## kwilcox (Nov 19, 2011)

I get mine from East Coast Drywall Tools:

http://eastcoastdrywall.com/index.php?cPath=30&osCsid=ab19a05e2a6b09e5a80bca5102563909

A lot of contractors make their own though using the technique described above. Its good apprentice work I guess...


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## anesthes (Jan 21, 2011)

kwilcox said:


> I get mine from East Coast Drywall Tools:
> 
> http://eastcoastdrywall.com/index.php?cPath=30&osCsid=ab19a05e2a6b09e5a80bca5102563909
> 
> A lot of contractors make their own though using the technique described above. Its good apprentice work I guess...


Your name wouldn't happen to be Kyle would it ?

-- Joe


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Aren't all joints running with the studs required to be on framing?

"*R702.3.5 Application.* Maximum spacing of supports and the size and spacing of fasteners used to attach gypsum board shall comply with Table R702.3.5. Gypsum sheathing shall be attached to exterior walls in accordance with Table R602.3(1). Gypsum board shall be applied at right angles or parallel to framing members. *All edges and ends of gypsum board shall occur on the framing members*, except those edges and ends that are perpendicular to the framing members. Interior gypsum board shall not be installed where it is directly exposed to the weather or to water. "From: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm*

"**R702.3.2 Wood framing.* Wood framing supporting gypsum board shall *not be less than* 2 inches (51 mm) nominal thickness in the least dimension *except that* wood furring strips not less than 1-inch-by-2 inch (25 mm by 51 mm) nominal dimension may be used *over solid backing or framing *spaced not more than 24 inches (610 mm) on center." From: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par007.htm (Bold is mine).

Gypsum requires positive attachment to framing.....otherwise it voids the fire warranty.
Anybody know of a different code to use than those, let me know- I could be wrong......thanks.

Gary


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## kwilcox (Nov 19, 2011)

I had heard that this requirement meant that you couldn't use rock splicers on walls required by code to be fire resistant such as interior facing garage walls.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

kwilcox said:


> I had heard that this requirement meant that you couldn't use rock splicers on walls required by code to be fire resistant such as interior facing garage walls.


When anything like this is in question, there is only one authority. That is your own LOCAL Building Department... the people who will be doing *your* inspections.


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## kid tech (Jan 20, 2012)

teeman11 said:


> What if you ceiling is 112 inches? I heard that you should put the extra strip (15-16") in the middle because it's easy to mud those two joints at waist height instead of one down at floor level. Is that correct?


i had the same situation with 8'2'' - 8'3'' walls and after debating on where to put the rip i decided instead to go with 54" drywall.


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## teeman11 (Jan 26, 2012)

kid tech said:


> i had the same situation with 8'2'' - 8'3'' walls and after debating on where to put the rip i decided instead to go with 54" drywall.


I thought about that too but that still leaves me a 4 inch gap, just not sure where's the best spot for that gap.


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## conspikuous (Feb 7, 2012)

I just did my 12x12 ceiling with 3 12foot sheets of lightweight 1/2 inch. No butt joints woot woot. That new lightweight is great. A 12 foot sheet was lighter than your standard 4x8 5/8


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