# How to increase water pressure?



## Jeekinz (Jan 29, 2007)

Pressure booster pump. I need one too. They keep building in my neighborhood which drops the water pressure. It's now 33psi.


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

I don't think just boosting the pressure would do it. This is a classic problem. When I was growing up it was solved by coordination of water consuming activities.

I do not notice it in my adult house. The house is much larger, more bathrooms, etc. Difference may be size of supply lines I suppose or maybe pressure but I doubt it.

The biggest kicker is the shower getting cold when the dishwasher runs or getting scalding hot when someone flushes. There are anti scald shower valves I do not know if they also help with the shower getting cold when hot water is called for elsewhere.

Maybe a combination of a point of use, on demand, water heater at the shower in conjunction with an anti scald valve. That way you hit both scenarios.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Are you on a well or a public system?


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## tzzzz216 (Dec 15, 2006)

What i would do first is get a pressure gauage and check it, on a hose bib in front and back of the house 45-60 lbs is the norm city.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

If you run another supply line to the other end of the supply then it should increase the pressure.


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## STEPHENWANGEL (Feb 19, 2007)

Pressure in my house sux, too. Did the whole house over in 1/2" copper... DUH! I'd love to install a pressure boost unit... Any recommendations?


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## Jeekinz (Jan 29, 2007)

I've only briefly looked into them. My brother is on well water and uses a bladder type tank. I'm on city water and can't seem to let go of a sq. inch in my wood shop so I'm looking into the electric units. You may want ot consult a plumber or research on the web. Good luck.


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## STEPHENWANGEL (Feb 19, 2007)

The units that I've seen so far have bladder tanks, and a pump to assist when the bladder gets low.


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## lorbon (Mar 1, 2007)

A pressure booster pump c/w flow switch should do it. Stuart have some good models.


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## iworktoomuch (Dec 31, 2010)

*Cold water in shower when using water elsewhere*

Chances are large that the routing of the water is the larger issue -- in this case, I bet the shower is at the end of the water circuit. I addressed this by running a line just for the shower from the water heater. Hope this helps. fyi...one quick way to see if water volume slows is to time how long it takes to fill a glass...compare it to other faucets...compare it @ shower with kitchen / dishwasher / etc. running...


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## LateralConcepts (Jun 6, 2010)

You probably don't need to increase the pressure as much as you need to increase volume. Nothing should be plumbed with 3/8" (unless you're referring to supply lines). 

To increase volume, you would re-plumb it and run lengths of 3/4", then branch off to your fixtures with 1/2". Use PEX to minimize fittings.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I hope after almost 4 years the original poster solved his problem


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## LateralConcepts (Jun 6, 2010)

> I hope after almost 4 years the original poster solved his problem


:laughing: Oh geez.. way to think outside the box Scuba lol


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## Plumber26 (Nov 10, 2010)

if your house is a 1930 you likely have galvanized pipes which get rusty on the inside. Sometimes they get rusty enough to even let no water at all into a fixture(s). My suggestion would be to identify which type of plumbing you have in your house, in your walls, in your yard, and what the material is that connects to your meter on the city's end. If any galvanized pipes exist, be ready to replace them if you really want to solve the problem.:thumbsup:


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## LateralConcepts (Jun 6, 2010)

Plumber26 said:


> if your house is a 1930 you likely have galvanized pipes which get rusty on the inside. Sometimes they get rusty enough to even let no water at all into a fixture(s). My suggestion would be to identify which type of plumbing you have in your house, in your walls, in your yard, and what the material is that connects to your meter on the city's end. If any galvanized pipes exist, be ready to replace them if you really want to solve the problem.:thumbsup:


Glad I'm not the only one that doesn't pay attention :drink:


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## Plumber26 (Nov 10, 2010)

LateralConcepts said:


> Glad I'm not the only one that doesn't pay attention :drink:


 
Yes, I AM an idiot!


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## stnemason (Mar 1, 2011)

Plumber26 said:


> Yes, I AM an idiot!


I beg to differ. We, who are experiencing the same problem, years after the original poster, appreciate your input and will read these threads to the end whether or not they span years or days.
Keep the input coming!


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Even copper pipes can develop arteriosclerosis in which case you would have to replace them.

Unfortunately there is no easy way to tell where along the pipe the problem is at its worst.

Tankless water heating coils also develop this problem in which case the gallons per minute goes down drastically. Taking the coil out and having it flushed with acid sometimes fixes that problem.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I agree with Plumber.

I used to wonder why the hot water line seemed to be more prone to clogging. 

I think it is the fact that normally there is no holding tank for the cold. The cold tends to get flushed every time the cold water is used reducing the effect of hard water, etc..

Hot water tanks get sediment that can get disturbed and flushed into the lines where it can sit and build up, especially in galvanized piping, imo.

If you have ever move an old galvanized hot water line, you can see some that will be almost closed up if not completely closed off.

Dependent on the routing of the hot water line and the types of ells used, it would be interesting to see if street elbows only on the hot water line might help a little with the pressure drop. Might not be noticeable, just a thought, not a real permanent fix.


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

First make sure your house water shut off valve is fully open.(Fully turned Counterclockwise)
Do you have a pressure reducing valve in your house near your main water shut off and probably immediately after the inside shut off to your front yard hose line. If so, it may be able to be adjusted to give youself more pressure. Adjusting much over 75 psi will shorten the lifespan of your hot water tank as well as cause washing/dish washer solinoid issues.
If your house had galv piping and was later upgraded to copper, often a few awkward to get to galv fittings may have been left in place which is restricting your water flow. Walls get broken open to fix this.
You won't have 3/8 piping to worry about. I recommend at least starting with changing your lines to 3/4" from the supply to the hot water tank.


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## kindwon (Oct 30, 2011)

*so many factors....*

First thing to consider is the main coming from the street. Here in buffalo the usual is galvanized and copper. Sometimes I even run in to lead coming from the street. Obviously copper is the best. Lead is unbelievably horrible. Galvanized is most constricting due to corrosion. If you have a functioning shut off before the meter I suggest getting a 3/4 male 1inch shark bite fitting. From there rerun your main in 1 inch pex pipe. This reduces freezing pipes in cold climates. The 1 inch pex is in my opinion carries better pressure than 3/4 copper. Less likely to get torn out by crack heads too. You next need to consider if your meter isn't constricting flow. The water authority will upgrade in most cases. Now continue your cold main in 1 " pex. Tee off your hot water tank in 3/4 red pex to lessen confusion. A smart thing to do if possible is to tee into where you want your most pressure. I always take 1 x 1/2 tee off the cold main. 3/4 x 1/2 off the hot in most cases. Some times 3/4 tee for spots in need of more pressure. This should help but it takes some real skill and of course luck. I'm not fond of boosters bit in some cases they are needed. Now a days the tools are more affordable than ever and us plumbers hate it but we can say thanks be to the interweb.

Your welcome,
Kindwon


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## Jcrawf1000 (Nov 26, 2011)

*Increasing Water Pressure*

Can you increase my shower water pressure by increasing the copper pipe size. I have 1/2 risers coming off 3/4 inch pipes going into the shower and tub on & off control. 

Also I notice the pipe going from the on/off to the shower outlet is a 1/2 inch pipe. Will this negate the increased flow/pressure?

My theory is more flow means more pressure.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Jcrawf1000 said:


> Can you increase my shower water pressure by increasing the copper pipe size. I have 1/2 risers coming off 3/4 inch pipes going into the shower and tub on & off control.
> 
> Also I notice the pipe going from the on/off to the shower outlet is a 1/2 inch pipe. Will this negate the increased flow/pressure?
> 
> My theory is more flow means more pressure.


Increasing pipe size won't increase pressure


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## cyberoptiq (Sep 6, 2012)

AllGoNoShow said:


> I have an old 1930 house with copper plumbing lines (they are all about 3/8 or 1/2). I have one full bathroom and whenever someone in the house uses the kitchen sink/dishwasher/clothes washer when you take a shower, the pressure will drop and the water turns cold as if there is not enough hot water getting up to the shower. I'm assuming just increasing the line pressure will allow for hot water to get to both the shower and any other appliances that might be running.
> 
> Now, the question is, how do I go about increasing the line pressure, and can i even do this? Thanks!
> 
> Nick


http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/how_to_increase_water_pressure_in_your_home


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## how (Feb 26, 2011)

What is your current pressure? 
You should also check if the street valve is *fully* open, same with the water shut off to your home, that you don't have a semi clogged filter in your pressure reducing valve, that your water valve to HWT is fully open, that you don't have any old galv iron fittings mixed with your copper, etc..
In otherwords eliminate the chance it's a water flow restriction.


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## 1950home (Aug 4, 2012)

post #1 was at 02-21-2007, 04:20 PM. I'm i to late to help?


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