# Shower Pan Liner Problem



## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Can you post a picture? 

Are you talking about installing a preformed shower base or installing a shower pan/liner and grouting over it in preparation for tile work?


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

Not sure about your exact situation but look into this:

http://www.schluter.com/8_2_kerdi_drain.aspx

If you already have a sloped based, Kerdi can be your answer. The Kerdi drain is pretty amazing too.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Although Angus beat me to it, Kerdi would be the best way for you to solve this problem without demolishing anything or needing a different drain. It isn't cheap, but it works and it is easy.


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## Hottrod33 (Jan 26, 2009)

*Sub floor Iron Pipe*

I will post a picture when I get home. 

I will try to explain a little clearer. I am not installing a pre-fromed shower pan, but want to install a vinyl membrane liner. 

Ok, so, in a typical drain set up the sub-floor pipe would be around 2"-3" below the floor as the bottom flange of the shower drain is 2"-3". So the iron pipe should be cut off about 2" below the shower floor. However, the iron pipe is flush with the shower floor, so if connected the proper shower drain (that would allow for a shower liner), the actual drain would be 2"-3" above the shower floor. 

If the subfloor was plywood and the pipe was PVC it would be easy to cut the floor and pipe. But the subfloor is concrete and the pipe is iron.


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## Hottrod33 (Jan 26, 2009)

*Here is the picture*

This is the picture of the current pipe and drain configuration.


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## jon#391u (Dec 28, 2008)

Hotrod, 

I had the same problem. I researched everywhere but could not find a solution. Unfortunatly the connection between your membrain and pipe has to be sealed. I looked everywhere but no one sales such a connecting fitting. The only real solution is to chip out the drain, cut the cast iron and install a plastic pipe directly onto the cast iron. I had a plumber friend do this in about 20 minutes. You don't need a saw, just a small jackhammer. You will be much happier with the connection and it will fit better when you put down your preslope, membrain liner and final slope. I hope that I have been of some help and I know that I have missed a lot of details.


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## Hottrod33 (Jan 26, 2009)

jon#391u said:


> Hotrod,
> 
> The only real solution is to chip out the drain, cut the cast iron and install a plastic pipe directly onto the cast iron. I had a plumber friend do this in about 20 minutes. You don't need a saw, just a small jackhammer.


 
Jon,

How did you cut the cast iron? You are not saying you used a jackhammer to cut out the iron pipe, are you? I assume that you used the jackhammer to cut out a big enough hole around the pipe to cut it? 

Rich


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## jon#391u (Dec 28, 2008)

Yes, I jackhammered around the pipe then cut it with a sawzall and metal blade. You will cut the pipe right after the p trap. Then install a complete p trap and shower drain. You can buy these at all plumbing stores.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

Just seconding the comment about the necessity to bite the bullet and provide a correct connection to the liner, at home inspections I find some real nightmares resulting from the fact that (for example) an incorrectly detailed basement shower is leaking water under a slab where it travels atop the vapor barrier and wells up somewhere it can wick up into the bottom plate of a wall or into wood floor coverings installed on top of the slab.


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