# Staining pressure treated lumber



## alexj212 (Nov 17, 2010)

I built a pergola in my backyard. Here are some pics. http://alexj212.imgur.com/pergola#3TPBg

Its 22' by 20', using 4x4 steel columns 3/16 in galvanized steel. The beams are 2x10x22 and 2x8x20 rafters #1 pressure treated lumber. The lumber has been up for 2 months now. I am looking to put a dark stain on the wood, (the bosses idea/ my wife) 

What is the best way to stain/protect the wood, and what sort of on going maintenance should I perform on the wood. Thanks

Alex


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## bobtheblindguy (Dec 21, 2009)

If you stain then I think you have to restain every several years as the stain color wears. Use a stain that has good water sealing properties. When you re-stain thats the time to power wash. I do this to my deck every 3-4 years. Messy job and takes a couple of days but several cold ones always help.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Alex, are you planning to cover the "roof" with vines?


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## alexj212 (Nov 17, 2010)

No, I am planning on covering the main section with Tuftex 26" x 12' Polycarb Smoke Roof Panel. Currently the pergola doesnt provide alot of shade, but with the roof panels, it will provide shade and rain protection. This is located in south florida.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

The wood will need to dry out for about three months. It is always a good idea to even pressure wash new wood, using low pressure and a quality wood cleaner that contains no bleach. All bleach products due is mask dirt by bleaching it, bleach also breaks down the glues in the wood. I prefer to use deck brite from wolman whenever I'm preparing exterior wood to be stained. It is a per carbonate product that will clean and brighten the wood at the same time, removing dirt, mill glazing, mold, and mildew. It also opens the pores in the wood, so the wood will accept stain better. There are a lot of good stains on the market. Sikkens Srd, Sherwin Williams Decks capes, and Cabott. I prefer SW Deck capes. Which ever stain you choose you will probably have to apply another coat every two years, at least on the walking surface. I prefer to use an oil base, as that soaks into the wood. A water base stain does not absorb into the wood as well as an oil base stain. Just make sure you choose a stain with color in it. The more pigments in the stain the less the stain will break down from UV rays.


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## alexj212 (Nov 17, 2010)

I am looking to stain the beams and rafters to a dark pigment like the photo below. You gave alot of good advice, thanks 

Alex


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

housepaintingny;608133[COLOR=red said:


> ]The wood will need to dry out for about three months[/color]. It is always a good idea to even pressure wash new wood, using low pressure and a quality wood cleaner that contains no bleach. All bleach products due is mask dirt by bleaching it, bleach also breaks down the glues in the wood. I prefer to use deck brite from wolman whenever I'm preparing exterior wood to be stained. It is a per carbonate product that will clean and brighten the wood at the same time, removing dirt, mill glazing, mold, and mildew. It also opens the pores in the wood, so the wood will accept stain better. There are a lot of good stains on the market. Sikkens Srd, Sherwin Williams Decks capes, and Cabott. I prefer SW Deck capes. Which ever stain you choose you will probably have to apply another coat every two years, at least on the walking surface. I prefer to use an oil base, as that soaks into the wood. A water base stain does not absorb into the wood as well as an oil base stain. Just make sure you choose a stain with color in it. The more pigments in the stain the less the stain will break down from UV rays.


At the very least.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Good news on the vines, as vegetation creates a nightmare scenario at recoat time. I agree on the oil versus latex. Don't know what's available in your area but use a good quality stain. You may get some repreive on the recoat times since most of your timber will be out of direct sunlight with the roof application. Depending on how well the roof will deflect UV, you may be able to recoat every 4-5 years versus two. Looks real nice, nice job. Any place with palm trees looks nice to me.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Build it, clean it, water-drop test, stain ASAP; http://www.greatsouthernwood.com/products/buildingtips

Clean it, -15%MC or dry for min. 3-5 days; http://www.cabotstain.com/products/product/Solid-Color-Decking-Stain.html

1-2 weeks, then stain; http://www.ppgpittsburghpaints.com/...ojects/how-to/Questions_And_Answers/index.htm

2-4 weeks drying; http://www.olympic.com/stain/do_it_yourself/common_questions.aspx#waterproofing

Seal it ASAP, dry for 2 weeks avg., stain it; http://www.inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Paints_Stains_Exterior.htm

Build it, dry 2-4 weeks, stain; http://treatedwood.com/faq/

Water-drop test, clean it, dry, stain; http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/staining/staining_faq/

P.t. wood starts to shrink, twist, and cup, in the sun as it is drying. Once the water/chemicals are dry from it, it really moves. In the FL sun, 1-1/2 weeks, I would think……
No reason to get a moisture meter this late in the game. Read the can directions….


Gary


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## myvipparties (Dec 9, 2015)

Alex,
I know this is a old post but your feed back and experience in building a pergola is essential to me.
I am also am trying to build a pergola in south fl. I am very interested in some of your do and dont's. I also would like to knw where you purchased the steel posts and how did you end up installing them??
thank you in advance and please contact me via this forum or my personal email [email protected]


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Hope those galv. post post work out for you.
From what I've seen the newer pressure tread wood is treated with copper and will eat right through galv. steel that's not hot dipped galv.
I've seen it happen on a jet ski trailer when they installed the pressure treated bunks.


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