# Remote Car Starter



## SELLC (Oct 11, 2009)

Usually that "Chip" is nothing more than a few resistors in line to equal a set amount of resistance. No big deal, you will be ok. Some newer vehicles even require an additional key under the dash placed in a special adapter.

Remote starts are nice, so long as the person installing them does a good job.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

Have you ever installed one? I was told I would need an add on module to take the place of the key for it to start. They said they needed two keys to program it. I did find online how they programed it, just not sure what I would need and where I would wire in such a module.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

Go for it. I used to mess around with this stuff back in the day, but haven't touched it in awhile. For a 2002 Ford, I believe you will need a PATS bypass kit. Shouldn't be too hard to hook up. I believe it just hooks to a negative output of the remote start, and it will have a coil that will wrap around the key cylinder or wires that connect into the PATS module.


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## SELLC (Oct 11, 2009)

The only thing I dont like about habing the key under the dash is would be theifs know this. 

I have installed these kits on many diffrent cars. The good kits will have a unit/module that will not require the entire key. Usually the correct resistance is all thats needed.

I know there is no way Id be leaving a spare key under the dash of my 2003 F250 SD or my Mercedes.

You must have a Ford Ranger, because the F-Series trucks did not have the resistors in the keys in 2002 or 2003.

I just noticed you claim to have an F150. Might you have a photo of the top half of the key? The alarm place might just be blowing smoke up your butt. My 2003 SD F250 does not have a special key.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

Try this. It has the install instructions:
http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=202

There's also a lot of good info at www.the12volt.com
Also try www.bypasskit.com


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

SELLC said:


> The only thing I dont like about habing the key under the dash is would be theifs know this.





SELLC said:


> I have installed these kits on many diffrent cars. The good kits will have a unit/module that will not require the entire key. Usually the correct resistance is all thats needed.
> 
> I know there is no way Id be leaving a spare key under the dash of my 2003 F250 SD or my Mercedes.
> 
> ...


Nope, a 2002 F150 4X4.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

jerryh3 said:


> Try this. It has the install instructions:
> http://www.xpresskit.com/product.aspx?productid=202
> 
> There's also a lot of good info at www.the12volt.com
> Also try www.bypasskit.com


 
Signed up for the 12volt site last night. That is were I got the install instructions from.

Do you know if the bypass kit comes with instructions on how to install?

Thanks for the links, I checked out the bypass kit and it seams to have a lot of wires going to it.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

For the ******* bypass, pry the little plastic plug out of your key head; the PATS capsule will fall out. Glue the capsule to the ignition cylinder. (You'll have to experiment to find a spot that will work.) You'll also have to remove the capsules from all your spare keys, since the car won't start if it sees two capsules at once. This method is cheap and easy, but your car is unprotected against theft. And if that capsule comes unglued, the car won't start, not even with the key.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

Yes, they have the install instructions online. Don't get intimidated, it shouldn't be that hard. You'll have one wire going to the remote start, two wires going to power(constant, switched), a ground, and two wires going to the PATS module.
http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument.aspx?documentid=1057


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

Do you have any experience with the tap ts they use now? or should I be soldering all the wire connections? I think I know the answer, not afraid of soldering, I rebuild my own battery packs, it is just the thought of doing it while trying to stand on my head.


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## SELLC (Oct 11, 2009)

It must be a gasoline truck then.

My 2003 F250 Diesel truck does not have that setup.

Course my Diesel does not have a traditional ignition system to cut. :laughing:

I'd still try and avoid the systems that require the entire key. Not only does it defeat the passive anti theft system, it also gives them the key to the ignition lock cylinder.

Remote starts are nice for warming up the car in the AM.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

brokenknee said:


> Do you have any experience with the tap ts they use now? or should I be soldering all the wire connections? I think I know the answer, not afraid of soldering, I rebuild my own battery packs, it is just the thought of doing it while trying to stand on my head.


The Scotchlocks-Insulation displacement connectors? Never really liked them. Soldered when I could, or just split the wire I was splicing in to, inserted the tap wire, wrapped around a few times, and taped or used heat shrink.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

SELLC said:


> It must be a gasoline truck then.
> 
> My 2003 F250 Diesel truck does not have that setup.
> 
> ...


 
Yep, gasoline.


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## SELLC (Oct 11, 2009)

I am pretty sure this "Chip" is just a resistor. I am checking around, but I did find this,

Many Ford trucks, vans and suvs use PATs (passive anti-theft) keys. These keys prevent someone from copying your key to a blank and using the blank. There is a small chip in the key which the vehicle must recognize before it will start.

The PATs key is used on the following Ford family trucks and suvs:

1998-up F-150
1998-up Expedition
2000-up Excursion
1998-up Explorer
1998-up Ranger
1998-up Lincoln Navigator
1998-up Mercury Mountaineer 
Additionally, PATs can be found on the follow Ford family cars and mini-vans:
1998-up Contour
1997-up Crown Victoria
1999-up Escort
2000-up Focus
1996-up Mustang and Taurus
1998-up Windstar
1998-up 2000-up Lincoln LS
1998-up Lincoln Mark VIII, Lincoln Continental and Lincoln Town Car
1997-up Mercury Grand Marquis
1998-up Mercury Mystique
1996-up Mercury Sable 
Following are the instructions for programming a blank key (you must have at least one working key for this procedure). 
The PAT
1. Make sure you have both keys.
2. Turn on car but don't start. Watch "theft" indicator untils it goes out.
3. Turn off and repeat procedure with second key.
4. After "theft light goes out, insert new key and turn on.
5. Wait until the theft indicator goes off and then turn off switch.
6. Wait thirty seconds. New key is now programmed into security module. Repeat for any other keys.


1. Erase any old codes by entering the factory code.(buttons will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Press 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time within 5 seconds. 

*To set new code:*

1. Enter factory code (numbers will light up)
2. Press 1/2 button within 5 seconds.
3. Enter personal 5 digit code(decide beforehand) within 5 seconds of each previous one.
To unlock all the doors,press the 3/4 button within 5 seconds of the driver door unlocking.
To lock all doors and set alarm system,press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time.
To disarm or reset a triggered alarm,just enter personal or factory code.

Do not set a code with five of the same consecutive numbers. It's too easy for thieves to figure out.

*Deactivating and Activating Autolock

*To deactivate the "autolock":
With all doors and tailgate closed but NOT locked,and ignition OFF.
1. Enter 5 digit code
2. While holding 7/8 button in, press and release the 3/4 button.
3. Release 7/8 button
The horn will chirp once if the "autolock" was deactivated 
or two times if "autolock" was activated.

To reactivate the system,repeat steps 1 thru 3

*Alternate Method To Deactivate And Activate Autolock

*Do steps [1] through [5] (below) within 30 seconds or you'll have to do it over. If you have to do it over, wait 30 seconds between attempts. 
Close all doors securely.

1.Turn the ignition key to ON.

2.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.

3.Turn the ignition key from ON to OFF.

4.Press the power door UNLOCK control THREE times.

5.Turn the ignition key back to ON .The doors should lock and unlock.

6.Press the power door UNLOCK control. The horn should chirp ONCE to confirm successful switching of the autolock system.

Ill see if I can find more info, but I think where you got that arrow pointing is where the chip is at.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

jerryh3 said:


> The Scotchlocks-Insulation displacement connectors? Never really liked them. Soldered when I could, or just split the wire I was splicing in to, inserted the tap wire, wrapped around a few times, and taped or used heat shrink.


 
Didn't know they had such a fancy name for them. I knew soldering is the best way, just wanted someone to tell me to take the easy route, no luck. :no:

Looks like I can get the Viper 5301 for about $230 and another $40 for the bypass. It beats the heck out of the 6 to7 hundred I was getting quoted from the shops to have it installed. :yes:


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

The "chip" is actually a radio transponder. You may be thinking of the older GM keys. I believe they had resistors in them. They had contacts on each side and the ignition switch could read the resistance.

Basic transponder function:
PATS module energizes the transponder key through the transceiver halo. (run or start position)
Transponder key broadcasts its key code to the PATS module transceiver.
Transceiver sends a coded message to the PATS module
PATS module transmits a signal to the PCM to enable or disable start (fuel pump, starter, etc)


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

SELLC said:


> I am pretty sure this "Chip" is just a resistor. I am checking around, .......


That is what I have read on other forums. .


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## SELLC (Oct 11, 2009)

Its not looking good for your bypass efforts of the PATS system. Your model is even more advanced. PATS II and is not a resistor.

PATS is Ford Motor Company's passive anti theft system. In 1996 it started showing up on select models of Ford and Lincoln Mercury vehicles. The keys for these vehicles have a tiny radio frequency transponder imbedded in the plastic Head. 







When you attempt to start the vehicle, the onboard computer sends out a RF signal that is picked up by the transponder in the key. The transponder then returns a unique RF signal to the vehicle's computer, giving it the ok for the vehicle to start and continue to run. This all happens in less than a second, and is completely transparent to the vehicle operator. It is a very effective system that does its job without the vehicle owner having to think about it, or modify his / her usual routine. 

So it may be best for you to have another key programed, then saw off the portion that slides into the ignition. This way the theif that tries to use it will soon realize they are in for more work and possibly abort. 

Thats about the best I can come up with. It might be a lot less expensive, and you could avoid having to butch up additional wires. Either way, you are basiclly taking the PATS system off-line.

If they want your truck bad enough, they are going to steal it with a wrecker. So I would go with the least intrusive method.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

jerryh3 said:


> The "chip" is actually a radio transponder. You may be thinking of the older GM keys. I believe they had resistors in them. They had contacts on each side and the ignition switch could read the resistance.
> 
> Basic transponder function:
> PATS module energizes the transponder key through the transceiver halo. (run or start position)
> ...


 
I'm a slow typer, or most likely a slow thinker, was typing my last post while you already posted. 

I was wondering how you would be able to just pry out the chip and put it in you steering colum to work. I had always heard that it was a resistor in the key. I had even read it on other forums and no one chimed in to tell the person they where incorrect.


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## brokenknee (Dec 13, 2008)

I think this is all I should need extra. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011EPVGC...e=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B0011EPVGC 

It's forty bucks after shipping is added in, but another key if fifty.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

brokenknee said:


> I think this is all I should need extra. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011EPVGC...e=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B0011EPVGC
> 
> It's forty bucks after shipping is added in, but another key if fifty.


Yes. It looks like that one should work. You may also want to look at the PKFM. It has a D2D(digital interface) connection which can interface with Remote Starts with D2D ports.


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