# How long should I wait before I can put blue tape on the ceiling so I can paint the w



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Generally fresh tape needs to cure before you apply tape to it. I never tape ceilings so I can't say for sure but you should give it at least 24 hrs. IMO a better plan would be to get a good brush and practice your cut in skills - you'll be better off in the long run.

Seems like a salesman gave me one of those cut in gadgets once, I didn't like it. Don't remember if it did a poor job or was just too slow.


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## jaketrades (Mar 2, 2017)

Thanks Mark.

I've got a Wooster pro 2 1/2" angled brush. Do you recommend using a paint conditioner? One of the DIY sites I read suggested it.

I guess I can cut in right away? Like when the ceiling paint is touch dry?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

I've always used one of the cut-in tools, either the two roller as shown or a small pad for tight spots. I wish I was good enough to cut things in with a brush but spend too much time cleaning up the mistakes.

I use a brush to dab the paint onto the roller side of the pad but careful to not get too much paint so it only goes as far as the pad reaches. Too much paint and it pushes a bead up into the corner and then gets onto the rollers. Stop and clean.

I also start below the corner and curve up over and down. If it leaves a bead from the bottom I go back over that to smooth it out.

Sometimes mistakes aren't worth chasing and more easily covered with a art brush after everything is dry. Those corners can magnify a wobbly line.

Oh, and I don't use the pole unless necessary, just by hand from a ladder.

Bud


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> I guess I can cut in right away? Like when the ceiling paint is touch dry?


Best to wait about an hour after the ceiling paint is dry to the touch as the fresh wall paint could soften up the ceiling paint when it gets next to or over it. I rarely ever add Floetrol or similar to wall paint.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

As mark said , no need to add anything to the paint


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## That Guy (Aug 19, 2017)

PPG sells a brush called the rembrandt which we have switched too completely... However if you dont have a PPG availalbe, go back to Ben Moore and buy a chinex Corona for $20. Go with a 2" you will have better control over the brush than you will with a 2.5"

then, add 1-2" of wall paint to a clean empty paint can, and use that bucket to cut in with.. dip the brush, and lightly tap both sides with the brush, this knocks off the excess paint..

then, starting about 1" belong the ceiling line, brush away from you, on your back stroke, cut the ceiling line.

Now, remember, the slower you go, the worse it will be, but if you go to fast, youll screw up royally, the trick is to keep telling you to go alil faster till you reach a happy medium...

Now, make your top cut about 3-4" wide, and dont worry if you dont get full coverage on your first go ahead... remember coat number two...

The problem with tap is that you often get bleed thruogh on the edges and its rarely a crisp line... the other problem is sometimes it pulls the paint off..

those cut in blocks? they dont hold enough paint to be worth while...

Maybe watch some pro painting videos on youtube.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Be careful what you add to that paint it doesn't play well with additives.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

While I'm partial to Purdy brushes for latex paints, the brand doesn't make a lot of difference assuming it's a quality brush.Use the size/shape of brush that is comfortable for you.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Good comments here, only thing I do different is I use a larger brush for cutting in. 3" sash cut. Learn to control the brush and a larger one works in your favor. 
Mike Hawkins


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Ya, personally I wouldn't use a 2" sash brush to paint anything other than sash BUT back when I was an apprentice we used 6" brushes for cut in. I don't care much for sash brushes for anything else. The main thing is to find/use the brush that you are comfortable with.


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## NotyeruncleBob (Mar 9, 2017)

I spent a summer painting houses and one of the first things I was taught was how to keep a wet edge for doing cut ins. Once you learn it you'll save a lot of time and a small fortune from not using tape everywhere. There are places that tape is the right choice, but a fresh painted ceiling isn't one of them. 
All those edging gadgets are a waste of time and money compared to spending just a little time honing good technique. Other than good quality brushes, a 5 in 1 tool, and canvas drop cloths, the only gadget I'd ever recommend buying is a 1qt pail with a handle if you're doing a lot of cut in and trim. 
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-1-qt-Pelican-Hand-Held-Pail-0B87200000/205865751
Don't overfill it. Dip your brush in. Lightly tap each side to knock off the excess. Start your brush just shy of the edge or seam you're painting and bring the little wet edge of paint up to it. Keep that going in a slow smooth motion and you won't need tape. Keep a rag and a 5 in 1 tool in your back pocket to quickly clean up any mistakes. 
If you're nervous about learning on your wall, grab some scraps of drywall and practice there first. You'll be painting like a pro in no time!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

NotyeruncleBob said:


> I spent a summer painting houses and one of the first things I was taught was how to keep a wet edge for doing cut ins. Once you learn it you'll save a lot of time and a small fortune from not using tape everywhere. There are places that tape is the right choice, but a fresh painted ceiling isn't one of them.
> All those edging gadgets are a waste of time and money compared to spending just a little time honing good technique. Other than good quality brushes, a 5 in 1 tool, and canvas drop cloths, the only gadget I'd ever recommend buying is a 1qt pail with a handle if you're doing a lot of cut in and trim.
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-1-qt-Pelican-Hand-Held-Pail-0B87200000/205865751
> Don't overfill it. Dip your brush in. Lightly tap each side to knock off the excess. Start your brush just shy of the edge or seam you're painting and bring the little wet edge of paint up to it. Keep that going in a slow smooth motion and you won't need tape. Keep a rag and a 5 in 1 tool in your back pocket to quickly clean up any mistakes.
> ...


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yea and keeping a wet edge with Aura is next to impossible. With Aura cut in let it dry then roll. It dries so fast that anything else you will be pulling the paint back from rolling in almost dry paint.

In fact you can't even go back over a strip you rolled or the same thing will happen.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

chrisn said:


> NotyeruncleBob said:
> 
> 
> > ............... You'll be painting like a pro in no time![/QUOTE]
> ...


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## woodco (Jun 11, 2017)

mark sr said:


> chrisn said:
> 
> 
> > BUT I've worked with a few 'pro' painters that after 10-20 yrs still weren't very competent.
> ...


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I always heard Just because you've been doing it for 30 years doesn't mean you've been doing it right for 30 years.


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