# Alternative to drywall?



## Eddie13 (Apr 20, 2015)

I've got about 2000 sq/ft of ceiling on new construction that needs to be done. Install time is going to be a huge factor. Working almost exclusively by myself and trying to make a deadline of occupiable by winter.

What I am meaning to ask about is if I can get away with some kind of paneling or alternative wall/ceiling covering that doesn't require so much finishing time vs drywall.

2 story, all ceilings are 16" on center, bottom floor flat, top floor very high ceiling with 3 flats under gambrel style roof.

What are my options?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Personally I would hire it out to a Drywaller to hang and finish the joints. You may be able to get a break on the price of the job, if they allow you to assist with the hanging.

Doing any kind of wood becomes more expensive and takes longer to complete.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Instead if finishing the joints for paint just tape them shut for HVAC reasons and use 1X4 planks to cover them. This was actually in fashion for a brief period long ago.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

I would not. You are going to hate the results and destroy your resale value. The only thing that might look okay but still not what people buying would want is the siding that looks like the old 3.25" T&G; and that would only be appropriate for a rec room or family room.

Unless your money situation is impossible I would do what Greg said and hire it out. You might be surprised at how little the difference in price is and how fast the work gets done.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Colbyt said:


> I would not. You are going to hate the results and destroy your resale value. The only thing that might look okay but still not what people buying would want is the siding that looks like the old 3.25" T&G; and that would only be appropriate for a rec room or family room.
> 
> Unless your money situation is impossible I would do what Greg said and hire it out. You might be surprised at how little the difference in price is and how fast the work gets done.


He's pressed for time and most likely cash right now so inexpensive drywall and cheap boards are a viable solution. Point being that at any time in the future the boards can be removed and the ceiling finished normally.


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## Eddie13 (Apr 20, 2015)

We have a few drywall quotes and all are over $10k, but thats the whole house. Family is loaning us money for materials only.

Even if its a bit more expensive to go with some kind of finished paneling or tongue-groove style boards it would save me a ton of time.

My mom said she would be alright with it as long as its a light color.

I am under the impression that all walls/ceiling containing insulation have to be covered to get an occupancy permit. Old inspector just retired and I haven't met the new one yet. Maybe the inspector would let me get away with covering the upstairs in plastic and only finishing/occupying the downstairs area for the time being, blocking the stairs. I should go have a chat with him.


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## Eddie13 (Apr 20, 2015)

INTERIOR FINISHES

36. R 302.9 WALLS & CEILINGS: shall have a Flame-Spread Classification of not greater than 200. The Smoke
Developed Factor shall not be greater than 450.

37. R 302.10.1 EXPOSED INSULATION: All Exposed Insulation Material , including facing, such as vapor barriers or
breather papers installed within floor-ceiling assemblies, roof-ceiling assemblies, wall assemblies, crawl spaces and attics
shall have a Flame-Spread Index not to exceed 25 with an accompanying Smoke Developed Index not to exceed 450, when
tested in accordance with ASTM E 84.

38. CHAPTER 11 & MICHIGAN ENERGY CODE 2009 - ALL INSULATION: Shall be installed as to type, size and
R-value shown on the required MICHIGAN UNIFORM ENERGY CODE Form submitted for this project.

401.3 Certificate. A permanent certificate shall be posted on or in the electrical distribution panel.


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## Eddie13 (Apr 20, 2015)

WALL COVERING

87. R 702.3 Minimum Thickness and Application of Gypsum Board shall be in accordance with Table R 702.3.5.
Screws shall be Type W or Type S and shall Penetrate the Wood Framing not less than ⅝ inch.

88. R 702.5 Wood Veneer Paneling & Hardboard Paneling shall be placed on Wood Framing spaced not more than 16-
inches on center. Paneling less than ¼ inch shall have a minimum of ⅜ inch gypsum board backing.

from http://www.antrimcounty.org/downloads/2009_residential_code_handout_1.pdf


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Your own house? It was a few years back but we moved in with stud walls and ceilings, kitchen and bathroom sinks on sheets of plywood, and plywood floors! Not necessarily recommended, but you may not need everything done at once. Ron


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

ront02769 said:


> Your own house? It was a few years back but we moved in with stud walls and ceilings, kitchen and bathroom sinks on sheets of plywood, and plywood floors! Not necessarily recommended, but you may not need everything done at once. Ron


Michigan is not a user friendly state.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I can't quote the codes for Michigan like some do but the bottom line is this.I read some of your earlier posts on this house and know it's 2 floors.No matter how you will go about it you will need a fire rating.The easiest and cheapest way to do this that I know of is with 5/8" drywall.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Eddie, sooner or later you are going to get to know the new inspector. I recommend you make it sooner. It is better to bow and scrape at his feet than it is to retain your dignity. Ask him face to face what he wants you to do. Give him all the background then let him suggest how you proceed. In the long run he has to OK what ever you end up doing anyway so if it was his idea you're golden. The last thing you ever want is for the building inspector to have a beef with you.


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## Eddie13 (Apr 20, 2015)

Yes its basically my own house, my moms, when we got it we had to clear the chunk of the lot mostly, we did the well septic and electric (hired), and the trailer, now the house..

I got some good pics up here... http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/inherited-half-built-house-project-262754/

I dont mind meeting the new inspector, I'm pretty sure the last inspector was glad to deal with me rather than my stepdad. The old inspector joked with me about my step dad trying to trick him into thinking it was only going to be a pole barn..
"If it's a pole barn then why does it have so many windows in it?"
"why do you have so many rooms framed inside your "pole barn"?"
Didn't fly..
Actually I think failing inspections has been my greatest resource as to find out what I need to do next, I did the whole roof according to what the now retired inspector told me to do. Hopefully the new inspector agrees with the old ones way of doing things.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

get a drywall lift for the 1st fl ceilings and you can do all of the walls. hire out that funky ceiling, or perhaps you gain enough skills that you could also do that yourself.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

oh. making and using "butt boards" in the ceiling will save you a LOT of time and effort.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

PoleCat a good crew working both floors, since material can be boomed into the 2nd floor. They would have the work done in two days. The only big problem that can happen, is that the crew is really fast, and the home owner ends up getting in the way.

In my area, 2,000 sqft is nothing for a crew to have hung, taped & mudded in one day.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

gregzoll said:


> PoleCat a good crew working both floors, since material can be boomed into the 2nd floor. They would have the work done in two days. The only big problem that can happen, is that the crew is really fast, and the home owner ends up getting in the way.
> 
> In my area, 2,000 sqft is nothing for a crew to have hung, taped & mudded in one day.


If money is not the issue for hiring it out then by all means. A squad of guys that do this work every day have equipment and know how that are beyond approach by the casual DIY homeowner. And in this case getting a certificate of occupancy before the snow returns may well hinge on taking this route.

However you can't engage a crew to do this work and then not have the money to pay them.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

gregzoll said:


> You may be able to get a break on the price of the job, if they allow you to assist with the hanging.


Most pros would probably cringe at the thought. I've seen people get charged extra because they hung it themselves and the finishers were less than happy to fix all of the problems.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

LABOR

$50 hr
$75 to watch
$100 to help


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Eddie13 said:


> I should go have a chat with him.


You should talk to the inspector first. 

You have a lot on your plate and have two strikes with limited funds and time.

Personally I wouldn't contemplate hanging and mudding a 2,000 ft² house with vaulted ceilings. Cost savings of time and materials vs hiring is not great enough. I would hire out this bull work and use my time and energy for jobs where I can save money.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Fix'n it said:


> LABOR
> 
> $50 hr
> $75 to watch
> $100 to help



LOL!

I always said free to watch with a couple of questions thrown in and double or triple if you help depending on the the amount of help.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I would not even think about going in a finishing drywall that a customer hung without doubling the price.Could be more.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

mako1 said:


> I would not even think about going in a finishing drywall that a customer hung without doubling the price.Could be more.


You would have had to triple mine. I have hung a few boards over the years and some of it came out pretty nice and some of it was a train wreck. My worst ever job was on my own living room ceiling.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

That sux.Should of at least done it on the wall and made it a little easier on yourself?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

I am talking about keeping the work area debris clean, hauling any mud & changing out knife blades. Along with moving any extra boards out of the room they are in, when getting ready to finish that wall.

Watching and staying out of the way, is how I have always learned how to do stuff.


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

mako1 said:


> That sux.Should of at least done it on the wall and made it a little easier on yourself?


It was a doomed endeavor from the start. Ceiling joists had random spacing and I was installing drywall and 1/2' foil faced foam at the same time. I used mesh and general purpose mud too so I got what I deserved. The walls came out OK.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Skip the drywall and opt for blue board and plaster. Much faster, no sanding, and a supperior finished product. You can hang the boatd yourself and hire out the plaster if you want.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

No rockers I know would ever let you help. You would be in the way and accomplish nothing but to slow them down.


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## Eddie13 (Apr 20, 2015)

Davejss said:


> Skip the drywall and opt for blue board and plaster. Much faster, no sanding, and a supperior finished product. You can hang the boatd yourself and hire out the plaster if you want.


Care to elaborate? Activating Google-fu..


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## PoleCat (Sep 2, 2009)

Davejss said:


> Skip the drywall and opt for blue board and plaster. Much faster, no sanding, and a supperior finished product. You can hang the boatd yourself and hire out the plaster if you want.


I wonder how easy it is to find plaster guys there. Most of them around here have been in the cemetery for some time now.


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