# How much PL300 on 2" extruded pink foam?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just the glue is not likly to hold it. Your going to also use some form of mechanical fastner Tap Cons with fender washers comes to mind.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

4just1don -

A good, heavy bead all around, then an "X" starting at the corners. Use a few Tapcons and washers or other mechanical anchors to it hold in place until the adhesive cures.

I used that method to finish mine and it has held for 35 years so far and the guy that owns the home complained about how hard it was when he decided to remove a sheet.

Dick


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

I used a whole tube per 4x8 sheet. I had the sheets pretty snug between the floor on the bottom and the joists on the top. You want to put the glue on in a grid pattern so that no air could get by between the wall and sheet. I then braced it overmight and taped the joints afterward. I am 2x4 framing right up against it so there is no need for mechanical fasteners.

B


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## Rooki (Nov 30, 2011)

Beepster said:


> I used a whole tube per 4x8 sheet. I had the sheets pretty snug between the floor on the bottom and the joists on the top. You want to put the glue on in a grid pattern so that no air could get by between the wall and sheet. I then braced it overmight and taped the joints afterward. I am 2x4 framing right up against it so there is no need for mechanical fasteners.
> 
> B


This is exactly what i have done as well. 

One small tube per sheet in a closed grid pattern. I also snugged them up tight to the floor joists and braced the sheets until the glue cured. No issues so far.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

How fast does PL??? cure when in a closed environment (no air circulation) when supposedly adhered to a concrete product that has low temperature when most DIY jobs are done?

Adhesives can be great, but the conditions and restraint have to fit the conditions for a reasonably permanent job.

Dick


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Really hard to get outlets and wiring in that way....

The foam board may need positive attachment, check with your local AHJ.http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/743
The drywall requires positive attachments, even with adhesive: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_7_sec002_par010.htm

The foam requires a fire-block above to the joist cavities and wall every 10' lineally: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec002_par031.htm

Gary


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

GBR -

I think you are trying to design the project without regard to the OP. Very often, electrical systems in basements can be surface moulted within code and approved by the most critical inspector.

Very often suggestions can lead to "witch hunts" and erroneous projects that may never be done properly.

I have sat on code, standards and enforcement committees for over 30 years and recognize that shot gun references can deter people from doing something according to the standards for that specific project because of the complication and just citing internet sites frustrates many people and can be counter-productive. It is easy to just provide site information assuming the OP has the access and can spend the time for a smaller project decision. - It does wonders for post counts anyway.

Dick


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## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

thanks folks! I tried doing those links, some worked others wont open. Going to place 24 inches horizontal on floor and put conduit all around outside walls on this plane and put 4' sheet on top and cut what needs to finish. Am using double layer of 2" in rim joist area and then "spray foam" 'great stuff' in all the cracks and creases including covering electric conduit. Will see what city inspector says cause he always gets the last word.


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## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

*update*

city inspector says sounds like a good plan.

Then after I get 2' of bottom foam glued to wall the inspector calls and says whats the r value. Its r-10, I am sure he already knew that. Says min r for basement walls is 14. says IFI want to add another 3/4 inch layer to get to the r-14I either need a letter from owen corning saying that is acceptable practice or structural engineer sign off,,,obviously neither will happen.

Only no hassle way inspector continues to say is to stud the wall. Or acceptable furring as I understood,,but would have to call back on that one.

SOOO-O now I am looking for best idea HOW I need to proceed. Putting 3/4 or inch styrofoam inside a 2 bye 4 wall seems a waste. thinking of asking if 1 bye 3 fastened to treated on concrete floor and at ceiling height, glued to foam in middle, with a couple tapcons if necessary in middle. 

or option 2--- put 1" foam above 2 inch then notch studs to fit tight to inch foam around the 2" on the wall. the inch foam is continuous vapor barrier and 2 inch would be cut inside stud cavity. Obviously this would be the most complicated.

OPTION 3- tear off existing 2 " glued on and throw away, put on inch foam, stud inside and cut 2 inch to fit inside studs. most wasteful option cause throw away 2 inch foam isnt cheap. Any good ideas how to get pl 300 foam panels off wall?

NOW which option is best???????


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Ask about option #1. You must not be in the States as R-10 continuous in a basement meets minimum code requirements for Zone 4-8.

Gary

P.S. Thanks, Dick. I've only had 2 complaints about my way of answering and quite a few members hit the "thanks" button on me. Click on my user name, then "stats".... but thanks for the heads-up.


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## 4just1don (Jun 13, 2008)

GBR,

No actually live in Northern Nebraska. Inspector likes to invent his own rules tho. Lots of trades people have told me that,,not just a couple. Trying to get along with him at all costs because he is the boss. Will know more next week when he comes out to look.

thanks for the heads up anyway,,,might ask if they allow metal studs to affix drywall to


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