# Drill Bit sharpener?



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Are you drilling metal slowly (low rpms)


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

> after one or two uses, some are completely useless.


Sharpening won't cure this, unless you like to sharpen them every couple uses.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

My drill is 0-850 rpm. I normally use it full speed for metal. Not I'm thinking. Maybe I want higher speed, like 2,000 or higher rpm for metal?

Edit: Googled and found that I'm probably going too fast, not too slow!
For aluminum, speed should be 200-300 rpm.

Perhaps I need to use cutting oil? I've never used it for small holes in soft metal, but would it help?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Slow speed and oil will make the bits last longer. Once they heat up they lose the edge quickly.


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

Had to make a flitch beam for my house. Had to drill 7 1/2" holes in 1/2"steel. Just by coincidence Milwaukee bits. Just like said above slow speed and a little oil. I used wd40 but just cause it was convenient. Regular oil
Probably would have been better. Took
maybe 30 minutes. Bit seems just fine after finishing 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Looks good. 

Should be a heck of a strong beam now.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

MTN REMODEL LLC said:


> Are you drilling metal slowly (low rpms)



You might have misunderstood the above..... metal should be drilled slowly.

Note Bayous cuttings..... looks perfect to me.... rather than small chips/metal dust.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

Thanks for the info and photos. I could also use a jig to help hold the drill vertical, but from what I have found so far, nothing that is both inexpensive and reliable. A bench drill press would be nice, but I don't think I can get a decent one for under $200 - unless maybe I can find a good used one.


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## gary.bruzzese (Sep 28, 2016)

I drill through 1/2" steel using oatey cutting oil (found at HD) but you can use any oil. Start with a small hole and step up to your desired size. Use black oxide drill bits. Go slow. Corded drill is better than cordless. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Two thoughts to add:
1. Yes you should have the ability to sharpen your bits. How you choose to do that varies. To add to the process, not all bits are sharpened the same way it can vary depending upon the material. A drill bit for Plexiglas should be shaped much differently than one for SS. And I'm not the pro to best advise on that.
2. In bayou's pictures you see those curly shavings, that happens when the speed and pressure are just right and the drill is cutting instead or chipping out the material. A long explanation of what MTN said .


Bud


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Lots of good advice here on drilling steel. Slow down. Use oil. Start with a pilot hole.
The larger the bit the slower you need to spin. If your drill is not making a chip, then its just rubbing, heating up and burning the drill tip. Step drilling helps because it takes less force to make a chip, so less burning and more cutting.

Regarding sharpening, with a little practice you can sharpen drills with a bench grinder or even a belt sander, (cloth, 80 to 100 grit)


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Ultrarunner2017 said:


> If I had a drill press, I probably wouldn't have the problem, because the bit would go into the metal perfectly straight, and I would be able to apply more pressure to the bit that is perfectly straight without breaking it.
> CP


The idea of the drill press isn't to apply more pressure, but to keep the pressure, speed, and direction of the bit more constant, so that you're drilling under the right conditions for the material that you are working with. Remember that you're drilling a hole, not punching it. As far as cost, I don't know if this is a one time project or something that you see using regularly, but whenever I have looked it seems that there are always drill presses on Craigslist, and obviously a wide range of presses, so a lot of variables, but seems there are always bench ones well south of the $200 you mentioned. And some of them are those "have to have" things that I'm sure a lot of guys buy, use a few times, and then they set, so not a lot of wear. I know that's the case with some I have seen at local auctions anyway.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

Could I use a Dremel tool for sharpening bits, provided either the tool or the bit are properly clamped? The Dremel is the only tool I have that will grind.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Ultrarunner2017 said:


> Could I use a Dremel tool for sharpening bits, provided either the tool or the bit are properly clamped? The Dremel is the only tool I have that will grind.


Yes you could attempt a Dremel but it would most likely be unsuccessful.

In my college days I worked as a jeweler part time an even I would pass on the thought of a Dremel to sharpen bits.

If you were my neighbor I'd do them free, that is any size above 3/16". My eyes are bout gone for that kind of work so those small bits are purchased at my machine shop supply.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Ultrarunner2017 said:


> Could I use a Dremel tool for sharpening bits, provided either the tool or the bit are properly clamped? The Dremel is the only tool I have that will grind.


Probably not. Not very well anyway, and nothing over about a 1/4".

If you had a small 6" bench grinder with a 1/2" wide wheel you could easily sharpen drills up to 1"


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

I have a diamond disk for my dremel and use it for a lot of things including sharpening carbide saw blades. But drill bits are extremely sensitive to the angle of each side relative to the other. As they rotate that difference results in the thickness of that curly piece that gets extracted. For hard steel that angle should be very shallow so it cuts out a thin strip. Basically, you need the sharpening jig or years of practice like the machinists who tried to teach me.

Bud


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

I set up a grinder on a small pedestal with a 1/4 hp electric motor turning 850 RPM. I attached a jack shaft to the motor and reduced the speed by 1/2 using a belt and reducing pulleys. I attached a wire brush to one end and a 4½" grinding disc to the other. I had a jig that you attach to the side of a grinder for sharpening drill bits. The slow turning wheel will not heat up the bit and still sharpens bit up to 3/4" bits. The jig can be adjusted to different angle on the bits.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Bench top drill press is 10", a 8" is $81.00.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-10-i...utI7b07_KRLGJPEy5070gaAm1L8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## BK2010 (Jul 11, 2016)

Lots of good advice above. I have recently surveyed users of drill bit sharpeners and the brand you mentioned did come highly rated although it was pointed out that 
1. You need to be patient and read the instructions and persevere to get it right
2. Smaller bit sizes seem to be too much trouble to sharpen- so many advise to sharpen the larger ones and replace the smaller ones.

Top tips for drilling metals - particularly harder metals :-
1. Drill slow
2. Use light pressure (as previously stated the drill press is not used to apply extra pressure)
3. Use plenty of lubricant
4. Give the drill bit a 'rest' every 10 seconds or so in order to allow it to cool down / not overheat


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## Marizius (May 26, 2017)

Canarywood1 said:


> Bench top drill press is 10", a 8" is $81.00.


I bought the same one. It's good enough.


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## PPBART (Nov 11, 2011)

BK2010 said:


> Lots of good advice above. I have recently surveyed users of drill bit sharpeners and the brand you mentioned did come highly rated ...


That reminds me that I've got a Drill Doctor, rec'd it as a gift a couple of years ago. It's still in the box on the shelf in my shop. Guess I should dig it out and try it.


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