# Suggestions for a 12ft wide wood gate?



## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

How tall are your posts?


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## hoz49 (Nov 6, 2010)

Cross bracing is most important. Use cable with a turnbuckle from the top of the hinge side diagonally to the bottom end of each gate. You can adjust the turnbuckle to keep the gate from sagging. 

check here for pics

http://tinyurl.com/2fyp2cz


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## bikerider138 (Oct 30, 2010)

Nick DIY said:


> How tall are your posts?


 5ft 6 in.


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

Personally, I don't like the cable & turnbuckle design. I had several of these on my property when I moved in and they've all failed. Plus, IMO, they look tacky.
I prefer a "Z-Frame" design. The style is really up to you, but the diagonal bracing being the key.


You could in theory go back and add in the turnbuckle later if you did get sag, but as long as your posts are well supported by fencing, you should be fine. If they're not, they will bow with the weight of the gate and you'll need to support them (notice the top rail in this picture).


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

Well built gate there, Nick! ....and absolutely, diagonal bracing is a must!

Nothing worse than a saggy gate!..... unless it's a..... ummm... never mind.

DM


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

DangerMouse said:


> Well built gate there, Nick! ....and absolutely, diagonal bracing is a must!
> 
> Nothing worse than a saggy gate!..... unless it's a..... ummm... never mind.
> 
> DM


Thanks, but not mine. I'd take some pictures of some of the one's that I've built at this property, but right now we're knee deep in the middle of a snow storm, so maybe in the spring time :biggrin:


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Nick DIY said:


> Personally, I don't like the cable & turnbuckle design. I had several of these on my property when I moved in and they've all failed. Plus, IMO, they look tacky.
> I prefer a "Z-Frame" design. The style is really up to you, but the diagonal bracing being the key.
> 
> 
> You could in theory go back and add in the turnbuckle later if you did get sag, but as long as your posts are well supported by fencing, you should be fine. If they're not, they will bow with the weight of the gate and you'll need to support them (notice the top rail in this picture).


Now thats a setup you don't see every day.


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## bob22 (May 28, 2008)

All the money went into the gate; the fencing will be in the next appropriations bill.


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## bikerider138 (Oct 30, 2010)

I've never built a gate before. How would I attach the diagonal bracing inside the frame of the gate?


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

I'd seriously consider having a steel frame welded up for this gate and attaching your wood pickets to it. Whether it is one gate 12' wide or two 6' gates, a wood gate is going to sag over time. Granted, a turnbuckle does allow for adjustment in the future. A wood gate that wide is going to be flimsy. Any decent welder could quickly and easily make a gate frame from steel tubing stock or channel, and it won't be flimsy and it won't sag if he welds a diagonal brace in it. You can use self tapping screws to attach your pickets. 

Just a thought from a KS ******* that has built many dozens of gates for livestock and privacy fences and such. :whistling2:


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## bikerider138 (Oct 30, 2010)

thekctermite said:


> 12' wide or two 6' gates A wood gate that wide is going to be flimsy.



a 12 footer or two 6ers? I'm planning on two six footers.


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## High Gear (Nov 30, 2009)

Lots of weight hanging off just 4x4's. steel posts would be ideal.

I built a gate using a 12' farm gate and attaches 1x6's on both sides to match a fence.

I used it for parking a trailer besides the garage , a wheel ( sold as an accessory ) helped support the locking side.

The gate wheel was on cement , not sure if it would work very well on the ground lots of weight to swing.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

I agree with the diagonal wood brace from the foot of the post to the top of the gate in conjunction with a turnbuckle in the opposite diagonal. You could use cable or a threaded rod. If you've ever visited Europe, you'd have seen gates bigger than this that are very old and still working and they are all wood


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## GottaFixIt (Dec 3, 2010)

Here is basic mock-up for the design for all of the gates on my property. They are strong and sturdy. 


All treated lumber & rated screws
Sealed with high quality deck stain/sealer
2x4 box frame and diagonal bracing
2 x 2 balusters, tied to diagonal bracing for additional support
3/8" Roundover on the outside edges of the box frame for aesthetics
Triple hinged to prevent warp-age
Pocket screwed where necessary
Dado'd tops & bottoms to inset balusters, drilled weep holes in bottom for drainage
You'll need to add some temporary supports to the posts, some sort of anchors and probably cables & turnbuckles into eyelets on the posts angles out away from the gates.

BTW, I don't disagree that a welded steel frame would be immensely stronger, but depending on the style you're looking for, may not be aesthetically acceptable.


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