# Siding meeting concrete



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Need a picture.
Siding needs to be at least 6" from any solid surface or grade by most codes.
If you can get a picture up we can find a way around it.


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## pick1e (Dec 4, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Need a picture.
> Siding needs to be at least 6" from any solid surface or grade by most codes.
> If you can get a picture up we can find a way around it.


I'll get one tomorrow. Didn't think to post till after dark.

Another idea I had was a dam made from something solid such pvc trim and butting the J channel up to it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

pick1e said:


> I'm replacing our old vinyl siding with new. I have an area where the siding will meet concrete, in fact it looks as though the walkway was resurfaced at some point and it's covering the bottom of the old siding and I'll have to cut it off flush.
> 
> Anyway, what should I do at the bottom of siding to prevent water from running back to the house under the siding? I plan on using a J channel at the bottom due to a slight grade. I didn't think caulking it to the concrete was sufficient since water trapped in the J channel would simply flow to the low end and into the corner.
> 
> ...


You need to install flashing over and into the slab, it should look like this.


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## pick1e (Dec 4, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> You need to install flashing over and into the slab, it should look like this.


Okay, that's what I was thinking, and caulking any joints in the flashing.

Next question- since I don't have a metal break, is there something at my local big box store I can use with that profile?

Thank you very much for taking the time to draw that pic.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I'd never ever bury the sheathing in the concrete that way. 100% sure way to have it rot out and mold to form behind it. No amount of caulking or flashing is going to keep the water out. I see this done all the time as I'm removing it it on other peoples homes.

What will work is cutting the sheathing back and using vinyl lumber instead and redoing the bottom of the siding so it's not making contact with the concrete anymore.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Most flashing at the big box store will not be the right profile, and not be as thick s you would want for this. Talk to a lumber yard in your area. They may have something or know of someone who does metal work that could bend it for you.
I had a place that sold metal sheet goods and they could bend anything I wanted.

When you lap the pieces make sure water will flow downhill and not into a joint.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

pick1e said:


> Next question- since I don't have a metal break, is there something at my local big box store I can use with that profile?


None of the box store stuff I’ve seen goes up the wall high enough. When the flashing is down on a slab like that I like it to run up the wall side at least 3”. Also if you look at the drawing I show the flashing bent about 10 degrees over 90, this is so when you push down it will give you a nice tight fit against the concrete.

I have a break but still have most of my flashings bent for me because I like to use a heaver gauge metal than the siding break can bend. Any sheet metal or HVAC company with a shop will have a big break and can bend up whatever you need.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

It's called Z moulding, any box store should have it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

joecaption said:


> I'd never ever bury the sheathing in the concrete that way. 100% sure way to have it rot out and mold to form behind it. No amount of caulking or flashing is going to keep the water out. I see this done all the time as I'm removing it it on other peoples homes.
> 
> What will work is cutting the sheathing back and using vinyl lumber instead and redoing the bottom of the siding so it's not making contact with the concrete anymore.


Not that’s it’s right but slabs are poured up against siding all the time and now regardless of who or why they did it, it’s there now and most aren't willing to go to the expense of adding a stem wall to get above grade after the fact.

Even if you ran a band of vinyl lumber you would still have to flash the slab. If done properly flashing will keep the water out.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just a few reasons I know this will not work, is a slab is never prefectly flat, they also move up and down over the seasons.
Flashing bent that way wants to stay straight and flat so there's going to be gaps. Caulking always cracks over time.

And your right I also see slabs and porches pored all the time up againt siding with no water shielding done first.
That's why I see so many rotted out rim joist that are now stuck behind the concrete.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Also notice the weatherbarrier and siding is kept up , I usually would do 1.5"


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## pick1e (Dec 4, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Not that’s it’s right but slabs are poured up against siding all the time and now regardless of who or why they did it, it’s there now and most aren't willing to go to the expense of adding a stem wall to get above grade after the fact.
> 
> Even if you ran a band of vinyl lumber you would still have to flash the slab. If done properly flashing will keep the water out.


Yes, I'm not a builder and I know better than to pour concrete up to siding, but somebody did it and I'm not about to tear it out. In fact it doesn't seem to be a problem even now with no flashing, the rim joist is fine. Luckily there is a 24" eave covering it and a good grade in the concrete. I just wanted to give it some extra protection while I'm there.

Here's what it looks like now:


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

IN your case the simplest solution that may work is the flashing.
Cut the corner posts and inside corner off about 1.5" above the concrete install flashing, housewrap, and siding.


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