# miter or circular saw



## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

well i'm looking for saw for my basement remodeling, and since i never use power saw before. i prefer the one that is safer than the other type of saws. i don't think i will use saw for rip cut other than maybe flooring. any expert felt which saw is a bit safer for inexperience power saw user?


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

You're trying to choose between a chop saw and a circular saw?
Makes no sense. You can do a lot more with a skil saw, but you can't run a mitre saw up your leg.
A mire saw can only get fingers and hands and throw chunks of lumber at you at a million miles an hour; a skill saw can rapidly dissect you limb from limb.
They both have guards, but that doesn't mean they can't bite.
It's really what you plan to do with it: a skil saw cuts everything, a chop saw is made for trim, though you could frame most of a house with one.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

titanoman said:


> You're trying to choose between a chop saw and a circular saw?
> Makes no sense. You can do a lot more with a skil saw, but you can't run a mitre saw up your leg.
> A mire saw can only get fingers and hands and throw chunks of lumber at you at a million miles an hour; a skill saw can rapidly dissect you limb from limb.
> They both have guards, but that doesn't mean they can't bite.
> ...


well i figure either can do frame projects. but which one is relative safer compare to the other one. to me seem miter is a bit safer(tied down, and with stand), as long i keep the wood clamp down, and my hands way out of the way.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Yes. I would say the chop saw is much safer.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Every year there are statistics published on the danger of a wide variety of power tools. The statistics are sometimes misleading, because of bias built into the numbers, but they are interesting. Gas powered chain saws typically lead the list of saws for injury, but of course some of that has to do with the fact that people drop trees with chain saws. Circular saws are always higher on the danger list than motorized miter saws or table saws. This could be because there are so many more people who have circular saws than table or miter saws, or it could be the nature of the work. Circular saws are often used in more dangerous environments, i.e. outside in poor weather conditions, on the roof, used on poorly supported wood.

With any power tool, you need to read the directions, understand exactly how to used the tool safely, and force yourself to back off when you are tired, inebriated, or distracted. This can be really difficult, especially if you are on deadline.


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## raylo32 (Nov 25, 2006)

Much harder to cut the power cord while using a miter saw than when using a circular saw... but I've never done that... ;-)


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## Beanfacekilla (Jan 7, 2012)

Yes I would have to agree with the others.

A miter box would probably pose less risk to you. But without a solid understanding of how to use it, you could put yourself in danger without knowing it.

However, a circular saw is a very versatile tool. It can be used for many things. If I had to choose only a cicular saw or a miter box, I would choose the circular saw. But I understand how to use it safely, of course. 

Do any of the big box stores offer safety training for DIY's? I would look into that maybe. If there is a free class at the local HD or something, it wouldn't hurt to check it out. I always see they have demos of "how to" for many things like tile, paint, drywall, etc.

I think it is important to understand how to use any power tool safely before use. 

Just my $0.02

Peace.


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

Beanfacekilla said:


> Yes I would have to agree with the others.
> 
> A miter box would probably pose less risk to you. But without a solid understanding of how to use it, you could put yourself in danger without knowing it.
> 
> ...


i try to find some woodworking class or training class around dayton ohio, but no luck. anyone know a good website that shows power tool classes in local area.

look like miter saw is a bit safer compare to circular saw when used properly. also for basement framing & trim, seem miter saw can do cross cut and angle cut faster and precise than circular saw.

one note is miter saw stands. it seem those steel stand sell around few hundred bucks. is there other way to cut cross cut long 2x4? maybe put some wood beneath for support or something like that?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Here is a place to start. Safety is a big and very important part of wood working and learning how to use equipment and getting familiar and confident with the tool is a big step. Don't ever get over confident though, as that is usually when you will get hurt. There are several videos at this link that show how to use some tools safely. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSevP1aRRZU


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

They are different tools with different purposes. Choosing one over the other out of concern for safety is a poor idea because in fact the first rule of safety is using the right tool for the job. And honestly both of them are dangerous if not used properly, just in different ways.

The circular saw is going to be more versatile for your basement remodel, and less expensive. That said, depending on what your remodel consists of the chop saw might suffice.

Learn how to use the tool properly, pay attention when you're using it, and you will be fine.


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

Ironlight said:


> They are different tools with different purposes. Choosing one over the other out of concern for safety is a poor idea because in fact the first rule of safety is using the right tool for the job. And honestly both of them are dangerous if not used properly, just in different ways.
> 
> The circular saw is going to be more versatile for your basement remodel, and less expensive. That said, depending on what your remodel consists of the chop saw might suffice.
> 
> Learn how to use the tool properly, pay attention when you're using it, and you will be fine.


i need to do alot framing for my basement. both saw able to do it. but miter seem faster at repetitive cross cutting. also base board require alot precise bevel/miter cuts.

i was looking at Milwaukee 6394-21 which has a brake and good reviews. as for miter saw, not sure what safety features i should be looking for. does miter saw typically has brake?


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

I don't think many miter saws have a brake. The brake can cause a slight jerk in the saw, which is not good for delicate trim work. I could be wrong though.

For framing my basement, id pick the miter saw and buy a blade meant for rough cutting. Most saws come with a finish blade.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

raylo32 said:


> Much harder to cut the power cord while using a miter saw than when using a circular saw... but I've never done that... ;-)


That's when you replace the cord using a 50 extension cord and declaring this saw your roof framing saw (although a good carpenter never needs a saw on a roof).


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

hyunelan2 said:


> I don't think many miter saws have a brake. The brake can cause a slight jerk in the saw, which is not good for delicate trim work. I could be wrong though.
> 
> For framing my basement, id pick the miter saw and buy a blade meant for rough cutting. Most saws come with a finish blade.


I don't know of a miter saw that don't have a brake today, not saying there aren't any out there, I just don't know about them, unless the brake is wore out, then the brushes need replacing, usually. Man that is a long sentence.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

I can't imagine not having a circular saw. I use my miter box, too. In fact, I just put my circ saw back on the shelf and got my miter box set up in my new addition. I'm finally at that point in the project. But my circular saw has seen WAY more hours of use than the miter saw.

Thing is, framing with a miter saw, you'll be handling every piece of wood twice as many times, shlepping it onto the saw, supporting the other end; when you could just cut it on the stack with the circ saw, and nail it up.

Start with a circular saw and a speed square. Buy the miter saw when you figure out you need one.


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

ratherbefishing said:


> I can't imagine not having a circular saw. I use my miter box, too. In fact, I just put my circ saw back on the shelf and got my miter box set up in my new addition. I'm finally at that point in the project. But my circular saw has seen WAY more hours of use than the miter saw.
> 
> Thing is, framing with a miter saw, you'll be handling every piece of wood twice as many times, shlepping it onto the saw, supporting the other end; when you could just cut it on the stack with the circ saw, and nail it up.
> 
> Start with a circular saw and a speed square. Buy the miter saw when you figure out you need one.


well the point was which one is bit safer. i can always get the circular saw when i need it. but for framing, trim, miter saw seem more precise. in my mind circular saw seem a bit more danger compare to miter.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

ok... ive read a few pointless posts so far but a few decent ones also

the circular saw will be more versatile as you can cross cut with it, make rip cuts, plunge cuts etc... however you cant do trim with it.. yet it is less safe than a mitre saw. with the circ saw you are pushing it through the material and it can kick back ( the entire tool) which can take fingers, cause large severe gashes in your legs if your not expecting it to kick back

the mitre saw can be used for framing, siding, and trimwork. they are a more stable tool as all that moves is the hinge point on it. as long as you keep your hand holding the material down 6" away from the blade and hold it firmly you'll be fine. i know elders carpenters who let their 6 year old grand children use the mitre saw but arent allowed any where near a circular saw. regarding teh blades, if your just going to be doing light framing the stock blade is all you need as they are generally a lower quality blade. if your getting into trimwork you will want to upgrade the blade to a higher end blade such as freud


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## msaeger (Mar 1, 2011)

Buy the miter saw and if you need a circular saw for something special then go buy it. It's not like a circular saw has to be really expensive they are a lot cheaper than a miter saw.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Originally Posted by *woodworkbykirk*>
"i know elders carpenters who let their 6 year old grand children use the mitre saw but arent allowed any where near a circular saw."

Then you know some really stupid old carpenters to let a 6 year old use a dangerous tool like that.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

jiju1943 said:


> "i know elders carpenters who let their 6 year old grand children use the mitre saw but arent allowed any where near a circular saw."
> Then you know some really stupid old carpenters to let a 6 year old use a dangerous tool like that.


That's really stupid. I let my son use a Dewalt when he was 12 and I got the eebie jeebies him just being that close to one and was physically holding his other hand on the wood at the very outside of the table far from the blade for probably his first 20 simple cuts (no compounds just yet) before I let him solo.
I waited another couple of years before letting him cut lumber for me with a '77.
Actually I've been more worried about some of the new help that I would get. 60 years old showing up for a labor position. You don't know if you can let them touch the power tools or not. Of course if you ask them if they've used one before they say sure I have, like you can't tell in 2 minutes if they are really a danger to themselves or someone else. It's a shame if you hurt yourself. It's a tradgety if you hurt me.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

titanoman said:


> That's really stupid. I let my son use a Dewalt when he was 12 and I got the eebie jeebies him just being that close to one and was physically holding his other hand on the wood at the very outside of the table far from the blade for probably his first 20 simple cuts (no compounds just yet) before I let him solo.
> I waited another couple of years before letting him cut lumber for me with a '77.
> Actually I've been more worried about some of the new help that I would get. 60 years old showing up for a labor position. You don't know if you can let them touch the power tools or not. Of course if you ask them if they've used one before they say sure I have, like you can't tell in 2 minutes if they are really a danger to themselves or someone else. It's a shame if you hurt yourself. It's a tradgety if you hurt me.


By the way, that wasn't my quote, that was woodworkbykirk.


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

s002wjh said:


> one note is miter saw stands. it seem those steel stand sell around few hundred bucks. is there other way to cut cross cut long 2x4? maybe put some wood beneath for support or something like that?


 
2 sawhorses and a piece of plywood.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

s002wjh said:


> well the point was which one is bit safer. i can always get the circular saw when i need it. but for framing, trim, miter saw seem more precise. in my mind circular saw seem a bit more danger compare to miter.


You can't gang cut with a chop-saw. I know I can cut a unit of 2x's at last twice a fast with a'77. Maybe 3 or 4 times faster. And just as square and accurate without having to handle the lumber so many times.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

woodworkbykirk said:


> ok... ive read a few pointless posts so far but a few decent ones also
> 
> the circular saw will be more versatile as you can cross cut with it, make rip cuts, plunge cuts etc... however you cant do trim with it.. yet it is less safe than a mitre saw. with the circ saw you are pushing it through the material and it can kick back ( the entire tool) which can take fingers, cause large severe gashes in your legs if your not expecting it to kick back
> the mitre saw can be used for framing, siding, and trimwork. they are a more stable tool as all that moves is the hinge point on it. as long as you keep your hand holding the material down 6" away from the blade and hold it firmly you'll be fine. i know elders carpenters who let their 6 year old grand children use the mitre saw but arent allowed any where near a circular saw. regarding teh blades, if your just going to be doing light framing the stock blade is all you need as they are generally a lower quality blade. if your getting into trimwork you will want to upgrade the blade to a higher end blade such as freud


Carbide blade for everything.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

12penny said:


> 2 sawhorses and a piece of plywood.


The Trojan bench is very handy for longer lumber ( it sits at the perfect height with the spinners at either end). 
Saw horses and plywood gives you a large table to stack your cripples, etc., but you need to build a set with a little longer legs so you can stand straight up.


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

As a home DIYer and amateur that has both, and both of equal quality: A 10" Makita sliding compound miter saw and a higher-end Milwaukee circular saw: I have to go with woodworkbykirk. I'd recommend the miter saw. Ironlight is right, too, in that they're different tools and excel at different tasks, but, for your project, I think a miter saw is your best bet.

Some of you are forgetting: Yes: *You* can be more productive doing framing with a circular saw. But he doesn't have your experience with power tools and he's not trying to knock this job out on a schedule, he won't be moving on to another one he's got to knock out on a schedule after this one, and another after that, and so-on.

Miter saw. Recommend a sliding compound miter saw for flexibility. My circular saw, tho it's an excellent tool, has rarely been out of its box since I got my 10" Makita sliding compound miter saw. Haven't taken the cover off the table saw as often, either. Can't recall when was the last time I used the miter guide on it.

Jim


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

More Power! said:


> As a home DIYer and amateur that has both, and both of equal quality: A 10" Makita sliding compound miter saw and a higher-end Milwaukee circular saw: I have to go with woodworkbykirk. I'd recommend the miter saw. Ironlight is right, too, in that they're different tools and excel at different tasks, but, for your project, I think a miter saw is your best bet.
> 
> Some of you are forgetting: Yes: *You* can be more productive doing framing with a circular saw. But he doesn't have your experience with power tools and he's not trying to knock this job out on a schedule, he won't be moving on to another one he's got to knock out on a schedule after this one, and another after that, and so-on.
> 
> ...


pretty much i never touch power saw before, so i would be hesitate to stock several 2x4 and cut it all at once. and of course since its my own house work, i don't have a set schedule. month - yr don't really care. i like to start slow and safe, get use to the tool before do the fancy stuff.


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## More Power! (Aug 2, 2011)

Btw: Amusing story relating to a circular saw.

I mentioned earlier I have a pretty decent Milwaukee circular saw. In fact it's a 6405 8-/14" saw. 13A motor. Roller bearings. Pretty hefty, and pretty powerful. Believe me when I say: I'm _exceedingly_ careful with that saw.

My wife and I had been working on some raised gardens, made with "peeler core" landscaping timber. We got to a certain point, one day, and ran out of light, weather, energy, materials--I no longer recall.

After a couple more days she was after me for us to get out there and get the job finished. Well, I guess I wasn't quick enough, because I pulled into the driveway, one day, to see the garage door open and her just carrying a piece of cut timber out of the garage. She'd seen what I'd done, got tired of waiting for me, and just went for it.

I could've known. When I first met this woman she'd just been changing the brake pads on her car. Pretty girl changing her own brake pads. What wasn't to like?  (She didn't know the brake lines had to be bled, much less how to do it, which is what got me my "in." .)

She thought I'd be angry. Actually, I was pretty damn impressed. Only thing I said was "Just be damn careful with that saw. It's no girly 7-1/2 el cheep-o saw that will be stopped if it encounters something it doesn't like. It's a no messin'-around saw and will hurt or kill you if you disrespect it. Make certain you're set and balanced, of what you're about to do, you _always_ have a firm grip with _both_ hands and, if something doesn't feel or sound right, stop and let go of that trigger like *right now*!"

The chain saw and table saw, tho, she swears she won't go near 

Jim


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

this fellow was direclty over his 6yr old grandson while letting them use it. as for him being an idiot.... i dont think so. this journeyman carpenter has trained well over 500 registered apprentices, many of which have gone on to become journeyman carpenters who are very successful. my self being one of them


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

quick question 

for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

woodworkbykirk said:


> this fellow was direclty over his 6yr old grandson while letting them use it. as for him being an idiot.... i dont think so. this journeyman carpenter has trained well over 500 registered apprentices, many of which have gone on to become journeyman carpenters who are very successful. my self being one of them


I don't care if he owns a carpenter school. He's an idiot.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

whatever,, the kid is fine .. the point being a mitre saw is far safer than a circular saw. as someone who makes their living using power tools and knows multiple people who have cut themselves on power tools.. the mitre saw isnt one of them.. the only injuries ive known caused by mitre saws from trying to carry extremely heavy models which injured someones lower back.. circ saws and table saws on other hand.. ive seen the results of these tools


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

well could somebody answer my question.

for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

s002wjh said:


> well could somebody answer my question.
> 
> for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?


Nope.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

s002wjh said:


> well could somebody answer my question.
> 
> for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?


Whatever you feel comfortable with.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## zircon (Sep 24, 2007)

I suggest that the OP buy a hand crosscut saw since he is SO concerned about safety. Some people should just not use power tools. I saw that when I was running our local Habitat affiliate. I set up a cut station where people would bring the board marked to be cut by one of the people I trusted to use the power tools.


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

Both need to be used correctly or can hurt..

If you're using a skillsaw, make sure you have sawhorses or a proper work platform, if you haven't used one much.

A mitre saw may be more versatile for trim and framing, however if you need to cut 5 doors for new flooring, your mitre saw isn't going to be much good.

Isn't really a question of which one is better, they are different tools that are used for the same tasks, as well as particular tasks that are suited for each one. If you are doing nothing but trim, buy a mitre saw. If you are doing nothing but framing and building compost boxes and maybe building a fence, buy a skilsaw and some sawhorses.

The mitre saw can do trim, which a skillsaw really is not suited for.

A skillsaw can rip lumber, plywood, doors, flooring, etc. 

Depends on what your needs are


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## mem (Dec 15, 2010)

s002wjh said:


> well could somebody answer my question.
> 
> for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?


When I replaced my old Craftsman circular saw I picked up a nice Milwaulkee with a left side blade. The norm for corded models is right sided. Being right-handed, I love the blade on the left side because I don't have to lean over the saw to see my cut line.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

mem said:


> When I replaced my old Craftsman circular saw I picked up a nice Milwaulkee with a left side blade. The norm for corded models is right sided. Being right-handed, I love the blade on the left side because I don't have to lean over the saw to see my cut
> 
> 
> 
> Nevermind.


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## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

If you can't buy both, then buy the circular saw and then learn how to use it safely, a circular saw can do almost anything a chop saw can do using clamped on guides.

I know (1) good key thing to keep in mind, is always use the correct blade for the job (on either saw) and always make sure that it is sharp, dull blades will create some real problems related to safe tool use.

Mark


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## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

Read a lot of stuff here that makes a lot of sense and as others pointed out, less sense. Also noticed some missed tidbits and alternate types of information that may be handy. From my point of view, for you based on what you said (as a couple others said), I would fully endorse looking into a miter saw, preferably a sliding compound miter saw for maximum capability. I can probably do 90% of the things with a miter saw that I have ever had use for a skilsaw with. I do agree- there is a LOT you can't do with a miter saw, but there is a lot more that you can still do- and do safely. From a personal perspective, I do a lot more trim and finish work which is the stuff that you actually see as we all know, and if you're ocd with wanting to make a good impression and do the work perfectly, it's the finish work that will show off your work to friends and yourself. Most framing in general can be taken care of safely albeit at a slower pace (which brings you around the circle again to doing this safer) with the miter saw. 

Some alternative suggestions: Maybe consider getting a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (probably 10", most people really don't need a 12" unless you are doing massive crown molding or need a longer cut that you can't flip the board and continue a cut) and a sawzall/reciprocating saw. Sawzalls- especially corded ones, are powerful enough to help you complete the other half of anything you can't really do with the miter saws.

Selection of tool: _Test it BEFORE you buy it!!!_ I can _not_ stress this enough. I bough my skilsaw (a Bosch 15amp, basically- the exact same as the standard skilsaws) and had no idea of the torque generated when you turn it on- it has a good deal of heft to the saw, but man- even my significantly more skilled and beefy friends who have used this agree- there is so much torque that turning it on twists _everyone's _arm and if you don't know to expect this- it's very dangerous. So make sure you can test out what you buy in a controlled environment like a local tool shop (not a big box like Home Depot/Lowe's unless you look in their tool rentals) with someone who can help give you some tips.

Additionally, get some reviews of the tool you decide to get- and make sure they are truly detailed. Someone mentioned that any saw has a lot of kick when it turns on, which is true- but I had no idea how amazing my new Makita was with its so-called slow start which pretty much eliminated the massive torque in the start. Maybe you already know all of this, maybe not- just my 2 cents, trying to help  Good luck bro.


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

scyarch said:


> Read a lot of stuff here that makes a lot of sense and as others pointed out, less sense. Also noticed some missed tidbits and alternate types of information that may be handy. From my point of view, for you based on what you said (as a couple others said), I would fully endorse looking into a miter saw, preferably a sliding compound miter saw for maximum capability. I can probably do 90% of the things with a miter saw that I have ever had use for a skilsaw with. I do agree- there is a LOT you can't do with a miter saw, but there is a lot more that you can still do- and do safely. From a personal perspective, I do a lot more trim and finish work which is the stuff that you actually see as we all know, and if you're ocd with wanting to make a good impression and do the work perfectly, it's the finish work that will show off your work to friends and yourself. Most framing in general can be taken care of safely albeit at a slower pace (which brings you around the circle again to doing this safer) with the miter saw.
> 
> Some alternative suggestions: Maybe consider getting a Sliding Compound Miter Saw (probably 10", most people really don't need a 12" unless you are doing massive crown molding or need a longer cut that you can't flip the board and continue a cut) and a sawzall/reciprocating saw. Sawzalls- especially corded ones, are powerful enough to help you complete the other half of anything you can't really do with the miter saws.
> 
> ...


i didn't know about the torque when turn on. something to note. yeah for my work mitersaw might be better, since i need do trim, and i don't have skill to do a good trim via skilsaw.


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## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

Yea. The torque issue is almost always present in the bulk of any electronic power tool- at least on the ones that are powerful. Thankfully in most cases, it's limited to when you turn the tool on, a huge surge of power flows through the tool to get it started and then as it runs, it evens out (also like a garbage disposal in your kitchen sink, which is why you need a dedicated circuit, because of the amount of power it draws)- much like starting a truck on a cool morning. Until the engine warms up, it will run louder like it might break until it's had a chance to warm up. The good news is tools lose the massive overflow right away. 

Some tools deal with this like my Makita, the LS1016L and I know they have a 12" version as well, both of which they say has a soft start which reduces that pick up torque. I know on our old 10" delta, if I turned it on while slightly holding it down, it would kick up with the starting of the blade until it got up to speed. This Makita builds up speed almost as fast, but slow enough to remove the torque kick which helps. Definitely something to be aware of. Good luck


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

Shoot for about $100 you can have one of each at HarborFreight.

Perfectly fine for beginners.....


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

framer52 said:


> ...you can have one of each at HarborFreight.


http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-7-1-4-quarter-inch-magnesium-circular-saw-98058.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-inch-compound-miter-saw-91995.html


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

i was thinking the ryobi, sometime they have deal on those. got laser line and electric brake. anyone got ryobi, if so, how is it?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

s002wjh said:


> well could somebody answer my question.
> 
> for circular saw that has left side blade, most cordless do. does it matter which side i stand, wheather use left or right hand for the handle?


A right handed person should use a saw with the blade on the left (drivers side)---Allows you to see your cut and your left hand at the same time--


Geeze---I didn't read all of this long thread---Leave the nasty comments out,please---


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## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

I say no to ryobi. I don't care if you're a pro (who should know better) or a novice. _Noooooooooo Ryobi_ unless it's their cheapo drill bits. They are infamous for putting out cheap and inferior products and just won't last. Nononononononono.:thumbup:

Edit: (Did I leave any nasty comments?? )


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

scyarch said:


> I say no to ryobi. I don't care if you're a pro (who should know better) or a novice. _Noooooooooo Ryobi_ unless it's their cheapo drill bits. They are infamous for putting out cheap and inferior products and just won't last. Nononononononono.:thumbup:
> 
> Edit: (Did I leave any nasty comments?? )


really i read review from amazon and homedepot and youtube it seem they have a decent product for its price. at least better than harbor freight one. do you have experience with their miter saw?

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/04/s/columns/cupp/14/index.cfm

http://www.power-tool-pro.com/ryobi-miter-saw.html

i'm not looking to spend 3-400 on a miter saw, since this is just for occasional use.


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

IMO ryobi is perfectly fine for what you will be doing with it. Although i've never used one of their mitre saws, a good finishing blade and accurate measurements are probably more important for a weekend warrior than a higher end saw.

While most of my tools are makita and the like, I do own a ryobi grinder and a small portable table saw for ripping flooring or the odd fence slat or whatever. Both work really great for what I use them for and have paid for themselves time and time again, and keep on working. Can't complain.


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## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

Weeeeeeell. If sub 300 is the field you're looking into purchasing, I would first consider looking at swap meets or for some used or refurbished saws from Makita or Dewalt or Delta. I have no experience with their miter saws, I just know a LOT of ryobis that my family and coworkers and I have used in he pass fail under heavy pressure. For the typical novice just learning, they could be fine. I think they won't survive as much of a beating but use a sharp blade and take it easy and you may be fine. I forgot that I was advocating a $500 miter saw which is a chunk of change to many people, myself included- I just felt justified as our old 10" delta miter saw gave out after 10-15 years of use. You get what you pay for, most times.


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

scyarch said:


> Weeeeeeell. If sub 300 is the field you're looking into purchasing, I would first consider looking at swap meets or for some used or refurbished saws from Makita or Dewalt or Delta. I have no experience with their miter saws, I just know a LOT of ryobis that my family and coworkers and I have used in he pass fail under heavy pressure. For the typical novice just learning, they could be fine. I think they won't survive as much of a beating but use a sharp blade and take it easy and you may be fine. I forgot that I was advocating a $500 miter saw which is a chunk of change to many people, myself included- I just felt justified as our old 10" delta miter saw gave out after 10-15 years of use. You get what you pay for, most times.


yea for me its probably just 1 project, working on basement. after that ill be lucky to use once/half year. if i use even once a week, ill probably purchase a 4-$500 miter saw. but just can't seem to justify for that much if i only use very rarely. so basically im looking at beginner miter saw for maybe use few time a year


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## scyarch (Oct 20, 2011)

Okay, then yea. I use my stuff a lot so I needed the extra punishment that the tools can take. Ryobi could be decent for now and then use. It's like my screwdrivers- I use them enough that I can handle paying more for quality drivers for my electrical work than the cheaper ones. Had a 25-30 dollar set of basic Craftsman's, was an 18 piece set of phillips and slotted... finally had to give up the ghost and get a quality set of kleins which for 10 less screw drivers, cost me an extra 20-30 dollars  Never once regretting this decision. Totally geeking out over the new tools right now  hahaha. Just don't buy cheap blades for it. If you're doing framing, go ahead with rip-quality blades, under 60 tooth. The blades normally say what kind of finish they are good for, fine- ultra finish, etc... For finish work- nothing below 60 teeth. I vote the Freud Diablo blades as being pretty high quality.


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## s002wjh (Dec 23, 2011)

yea for rough framing, it come with a carbide tip 40t blade(should be good, if not ill get new one), for triming and maybe other stuff ill purchase a good diablo 60t blade.


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

s002wjh said:


> i was thinking the ryobi, sometime they have deal on those. got laser line and electric brake. anyone got ryobi, if so, how is it?


I have a Ryobi 10 in miter saw, bought when i was short on money and haven't been able to kill it so far. By the way, I use my tools everyday and the cheaper saws work fine for the most part.

i have used some of the HF tools and they are not the cheap crap they used to sell. Bought a few tools from them for one time use and am having a hard time killing them.

For example the 12" slider is a decent tool for 120. it was accurate right out of the box. is it as good as a Kapex? Nope, but then again it wasn't 1500.

If you are an occasional user then Ryobi or HF would work fine.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

framer52 said:


> I have a Ryobi 10 in miter saw, bought when i was short on money and haven't been able to kill it so far. By the way, I use my tools everyday and the cheaper saws work fine for the most part.
> 
> i have used some of the HF tools and they are not the cheap crap they used to sell. Bought a few tools from them for one time use and am having a hard time killing them.
> 
> ...



WOW $1500.. where is that.. here its $1800 before tax


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

woodworkbykirk said:


> WOW $1500.. where is that.. here its $1800 before tax


Come on down...:thumbsup:


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## mem (Dec 15, 2010)

woodworkbykirk said:


> WOW $1500.. where is that.. here its $1800 before tax


$1300 several places online--such a deal!


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