# Making a 1929 cap cod efficient



## borzym60 (Feb 18, 2015)

Hello DIYers.

Recently purchased a old 1929 foreclosed housed that needed a ton of work. I mean a ton of work and we are nearing completion. 

My last project was getting the master bedroom ready. I want to reserve this space to show what I did to make the grand master suite a livable, heat retaining, sound deadened, environment. 

I call it the grand master suite because the house originally had two bedrooms up stairs in the second upper half. We turned the second bedroom into the master closet, cut out a section of roof, added a 10x10 dormer for a new master bath, and raised the collar ties for more head room along with new electrical and plumbing. Thats just the tip of the ice burg. 

I have a ton a pictures of the insulation job I did on the master bedroom, I am about 75% done and am headed up now to finish the job. I would like some feed back of the methods I implemented. 

Stay tuned and thanks for reading folks.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Capes are always a SOB to get tight and efficient.

Looking forward to the pics.


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## borzym60 (Feb 18, 2015)

I am just about finished. It was a decent size job considering all the abestos that was packed in between the rafter.

When I started demoing, I discovered there was no vent channel against the roof sheathing and the insulation that was there, was frozen to the roof which told me I had condensation from a lack a ventilation. 

I did my best with what I had to work with while keeping head room in mind. The rafters are 2x6 and i added 2x2s to get me to 7.5" deep. I wanted radiant barrier all around and wanted the room to be as sealed as I could get it. 

Ill let the picture explain the rest.

This was my starting canvas after some demo










Collar ties removed










Old fiber glass insulation behind the knee wall right up against the sheathing










The damp spots are melted frost from removing the fiberglass insulation










All cleaned up with raised collar ties in place and 2x2 furring in










7/8" MDF used to space for vent channel










1/2" aluminum rigid foam nailed to MDF vent channels










Space of vent channel










Sealing everything up










Getting ready to attach rigid foam to back side of knee wall to work as a thermal bridge preventative. Have to glue first for a better seal.


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## borzym60 (Feb 18, 2015)

Roof vent channel and knee walls all sealed up










Forward exterior wall sealed up










Adding r19 to rafters and r13 to 2x4 walls










And the final product with rigid foam used on all was to work as a thermal bridge preventive and thermal barrier. I am considering adding some more furring to the back side of all double foamed walls to give an air pocket so the radiant barrier is more effective.










How does it look?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Interesting below deck vent. 

Looks pretty tidy. 

I am a bit concerned about a few things. Constructive criticism only. 

1. Stacked vapor retarder levels. Between the foam, the faced batt, and the interior layer, there are several layers and you have limited the walls ability to dry in either direction. How is the first foamed faced. Perm rating on it 

2. Vent space depth. Pretty tight and I would prefer to see 1.5-2". 

The vapor point could be moot depending on the perm rate of the foam. Just my cursory observation looking at the pics on my small phone screen.


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## borzym60 (Feb 18, 2015)

Your right about the gap. I would prefer an 1" but I just couldn't afford the space to allow for it. My reasoning was anything would be better then what it was.

The walls are sealed from the interior so no heat/cool air can escape but they are opened internally to vent up through the ridge vent. 

Time will tell I suppose?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

This is true. 

If you did a good job getting them air tight (outlets as well), the amount of moisture ever getting in there should be minimal.


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## borzym60 (Feb 18, 2015)

The differnce is amazing. 

That ridig foam board will be apart of every insulating job I ever do in the future. 

It makes the heat in the room so even with zero cold spots. 

I can't believe the differnce. It's amazing. 

It was -8 f last night and the exterior walls were not cool to the touch. Not like the rest of the house now with out the foam board.


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