# Best way to secure an arbor



## tgm1024 (Apr 24, 2010)

The grape arbor I'm getting is probably exactly this one: http://www.yardarbors.com/wooden-yard-arbors-red-cedar-pergola-garden-arbors.html , though I'm getting it from a local garden center for $400.

I plan on putting it on the edge of the mow line because the trees right on that line have a bazillion grapes vines hanging from them.

Do I need to use 4 concrete footings? Or can I get away with some semi-buried 4x4 PT posts in some config?


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

Are the posts on this 4x4? I would think that concrete footings are serious overkill. They make anchors for 4x4's that are commonly used for mailboxes. You just hammer into ground, insert 4x4 and lag bolt it.

there are screw in models as well
http://www.amazon.com/Mayne-580D-BK...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1281016705&sr=1-1

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


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## tgm1024 (Apr 24, 2010)

Mr Chips said:


> Are the posts on this 4x4? I would think that concrete footings are serious overkill. They make anchors for 4x4's that are commonly used for mailboxes. You just hammer into ground, insert 4x4 and lag bolt it.
> 
> there are screw in models as well
> http://www.amazon.com/Mayne-580D-BK...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1281016705&sr=1-1
> ...


No, I believe they are more like cedar 2x3. Surprisingly sturdy given that. But those post anchors are expensive and overkill when I add 4 of them to the mix. Diagonally opposing 2 of them might do the trick, but I'm beginning to wonder if I'm not just better off sinking my own 4x4 PT's as "feet". Possibly transverse.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

if you want to do on the cheap, here's a quick and dirty method to keep it from falling over:

Get yourself 4 pieces of rebar,3' to 4' long. Get some Rustoleum or other outdoor paint that is a brown color, paint 2' on one end of each rod. Pound the unpainted end into the ground, leaving 1' to 1-1/2 of the painted end sticking out. Use 2 galvanized pipe straps to attach the rods to each leg of the arbor. The straps don't have to be a tight fit. just put one down low, the idea is to keep it from tumbling over.

Job done in 10 minutes (after paint dries) for under $20


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## tgm1024 (Apr 24, 2010)

Mr Chips said:


> if you want to do on the cheap, here's a quick and dirty method to keep it from falling over:
> 
> Get yourself 4 pieces of rebar,3' to 4' long. Get some Rustoleum or other outdoor paint that is a brown color, paint 2' on one end of each rod. Pound the unpainted end into the ground, leaving 1' to 1-1/2 of the painted end sticking out. Use 2 galvanized pipe straps to attach the rods to each leg of the arbor. The straps don't have to be a tight fit. just put one down low, the idea is to keep it from tumbling over.
> 
> Job done in 10 minutes (after paint dries) for under $20


.............................................not bad


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## bernieb (Mar 20, 2010)

The re-bar is not a bad idea.......but if you want to expand on that method, do put a concrete footer so to speak under each leg of the arbor and sink a inch by inch angle iron from lowes into the wet concrete and lag screw using galvinized if possible. I'd come up out of the ground three feet with the angle steel. Do all this while concrete is still wet. The arbor is beautiful, but be careful on final setting ,make sure the legs are in a perfect x in inches and if you do set in concrete ,put a side brace out temporarily untill the crete gets hard. If the x isn't perfect, it'll look out of plumb.


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## tgm1024 (Apr 24, 2010)

bernieb said:


> The re-bar is not a bad idea.......but if you want to expand on that method, do put a concrete footer so to speak under each leg of the arbor and sink a inch by inch angle iron from lowes into the wet concrete and lag screw using galvinized if possible. I'd come up out of the ground three feet with the angle steel. Do all this while concrete is still wet. The arbor is beautiful, but be careful on final setting ,make sure the legs are in a perfect x in inches and if you do set in concrete ,put a side brace out temporarily untill the crete gets hard. If the x isn't perfect, it'll look out of plumb.


That's the problem. I'll agonize over it standing at 0.00000001° off of 90°. Plus, I'll need something I can easily adjust over time to compensate for suttle warping of the structure which *always* happens no matter how much treatment is on it. The solution has to meet the following requirements:


Doesn't lend itself to an OCD agonizing  .
Could be left alone as permanent should it go out of sight out of mind.
Could be easily tweaked when the grade shifts, or the wood dries, or I agonize over it being out of line with the off-plumb playset, or or or...
LOL....


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## bernieb (Mar 20, 2010)

I do appreciate your concern for being plumb on your arbor. A feature such as that can add 10 thousand dollars to the value of your property if done right, so don't squack about an extra 50 bucks in the final setting. I can tell your on the right track and good luck.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

bernieb said:


> . I'd come up out of the ground three feet with the angle steel.


T think the angle iron, wrapping around the corner is a great idea, but I am curious why you recommend coming up so high?

I would think that if you positioned the angle iron so that they all faced in (or out) you would only need about 6" coming up out of the concrete, maybe even less since you are getting the added support of the angle, all you really need is a single lag bolt in each leg and the arbour isn't going anywhere. what am i missing here?


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## bernieb (Mar 20, 2010)

You are no doubt right Mr Chips with the height on the angle iron. I tend to think about kids running about. Anyway I think we got the o'l boy on the right track.


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## tgm1024 (Apr 24, 2010)

bernieb said:


> You are no doubt right Mr Chips with the height on the angle iron. I tend to think about kids running about. Anyway I think we got the o'l boy on the right track.


I chuckled over this. I tend to over-engineer everything as well. Anything within 100 feet of water is stainless steel. Any "glue" is NASA grade epoxy. Glue guns give me the heebeejeebees.

Thanks all!


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