# CampBell Hausfeld Compressor problems



## Thurman

Drain the tank completely. Start the unit up and allow to run until it shuts down by itself then be near the unit to note: 1) Do you hear a small amount of air released from the control box or very near it? 2) At what tank pressure does it shut down (cut-out pressure)? If you do not hear this small amount of air when the unit shuts down, then the "unloader" is not allowing the residual amount of air to be released between the compressor unit and the check valve of the unit. _OR_: IF you do hear this air escape, try releasing air from the tank via the drain valve quickly until the unit tries to start back up and note this pressure (cut-in pressure). IF the unit does start back up, then you have a check valve problem. IF the unit does not start back up with releasing air from the drain valve rapidly, the check valve is most likely good, so back to the unloader. The unloader allows air to be released between the check valve and compressor unit so the compressor does not try to "dead-head" when starting, which it sounds as if your's is doing. This is usually controlled by an solenoid type valve within the controller itself. When the unit st0ps, the valve opens and the air escapes. IF this valve is not working it will not allow the air to escape.


----------



## Hexar

Thurman,
Thanks a lot for the detailed message, I will try your methods and report back.

Cheers,
Hex


----------



## whiteblur

I had the same issue with an older compressor recently. On the motor there are two capacitors, one a run capacitor and the other a start. You most likely have a shorted start capacitor, since the motor is drawing too much current when starting with a load. Look online for steps for testing a capacitor. I used the fuse method for testing mine.


----------



## nap

whiteblur said:


> I had the same issue with an older compressor recently. On the motor there are two capacitors, one a run capacitor and the other a start. You most likely have a shorted start capacitor, since the motor is drawing too much current when starting with a load. Look online for steps for testing a capacitor. I used the fuse method for testing mine.


the fact that the OP's compressor starts fine with no pressure in the tank but once there is pressure, the motor has problems. That is more indicative of a malfunctioning pressure relief system.

If there is a bad capacitor, it will generally be a problem all the time. The fact is; there should be no load on the motor/compressor because the pressure relief system releases the pressure on the compressor so there is no load.


----------



## eisert

I have had issues with electric compressors like this before and for me, it has always been the source of power. You probably need to plug into a higher amperage circuit.

When the tank is empty, the motor has little resistance against it during startup. The draw from the circuit is at its minimun during the compressors cycle. As the pressure builds, so does the draw from the circuit. However, the initial load from startup is no longer an issue.

When the compressor starts with pressure already in the tanks, the motor needs high amps to start, and that load is increased due to increased resistance from the pressure already built in the tanks. 

The compressor being cold will magnify the problem.

Try getting your compressor to room temp before using it, don't use an extension cord with your compressor, and plug into a higher amp circuit.


----------



## nap

eisert said:


> When the compressor starts with pressure already in the tanks, the motor needs high amps to start, and that load is increased due to increased resistance from the pressure already built in the tanks.
> .


Not if there is a pressure relief system. That removes all of the pressure from the compressor once the motor stops. That way there is no load on the compressor. Small compressors often do not have them. When you get into stationary compressors, they become more prevalent and on large compressors, a standard item.


----------



## eisert

Since a 20 gallon 5 hp compressor isn't that big, and Campbell Hausfield are generally no-frills compressors, I'm guessing no pressure releif valve. Not saying I'm right, but when my electric compressors won't run right, it's almost always the power source.


----------



## nap

eisert said:


> Since a 20 gallon 5 hp compressor isn't that big, and Campbell Hausfield are generally no-frills compressors, I'm guessing no pressure releif valve. Not saying I'm right, but when my electric compressors won't run right, it's almost always the power source.


of course, you could be right as well. Just having a bad night and not presenting myself well. My apologies. 

If there is no unloader, yes, it could absolutely be something as simple as an undersized conductor for the load. The breaker presumably is large enough as it does not trip until the motor is stalled for some time. He could simple be experiencing a voltage drop caused by undersized circuit conductors.


----------



## DexterII

Virtually all air compressors will show a significant increase in current draw on startup, simply due to the fact that there is a lot of mass to put in motion, so that is a factor, regardless of whether the it is unloaded, or not. On the other hand, in terms of the types of air compressors that would typically come up for discussion on a DIY forum, virtually all of them, including Campbell Hausfeld, would have some manner of unloading, whether a sophisticated system based on oil pressure, a simpler centrifugal based system, or the more basic system utilizing a "load genie" or some such device. The op hasn't returned for a bit, but while he should definitely check or recheck his wiring, to ensure that it is adequate, based on his description, I am inclined to agree with those who suspected a faulty unloader.


----------



## Maintenance 6

My 3 horse CH has an unloader. I'm guessing that a 5 HP would have one too. First thing I would check since they can load with dirt and moisture.


----------



## Know It ALL

*This thread is what lead me to this site. * I searched "campbell hausfeld 20 gallon" and wound up here. So I joined.

I have this same 3 week old belt driven unit that will not start when below 55F and the tank has more than 25psi. Once it does run I can hear the unloader hiss when it cycles off. I have not checked for a leaky check valve. I was dissapointed when saw made in chiner on my new compressor. This is a capable unit that is quiter than most. After proper break in I ran the break in oil for 2 hours then changed the oil. Used the mobile one 10-30 synthetic. The high dollar oil did not help with starting.


----------



## brokenknee

Know It ALL said:


> *This thread is what lead me to this site. *I searched "campbell hausfeld 20 gallon" and wound up here. So I joined.
> 
> I have this same 3 week old belt driven unit that will not start when below 55F and the tank has more than 25psi. Once it does run I can hear the unloader hiss when it cycles off. I have not checked for a leaky check valve. I was dissapointed when saw made in chiner on my new compressor. This is a capable unit that is quiter than most. After proper break in I ran the break in oil for 2 hours then changed the oil. Used the mobile one 10-30 synthetic. The high dollar oil did not help with starting.


Not to discourage any DIY project, but if it is only 3 weeks old I would bring it back. I have a 20 year old CH 2HP 20 gallon tank and it will start and run when it is -20°.


----------



## fixrite

I have had similar problem with my CH compressor and have found that if I turn it off with air in the tank and try to re-start it it was a no go. The solution was simple, the extension cord I was using coupled with other items on the same circuit did not give enough juice. Changed the cord, turned off the air filter and voila, problem solved. 
Hope this helps.


----------

