# do you have to tape joints?



## begal (Jul 23, 2014)

Is the tape only for strength ? Can you just fill it with mud and sand it down?


----------



## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

I will defer to a drywall expert but if you don't tape you get cracks I believe... 
The question is not whether to tape or not the question is whether to paper tape or fiberglass tape. 
:surrender: Now bring on the experts in drywall.


----------



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

begal said:


> Is the tape only for strength ? Can you just fill it with mud and sand it down?


You can do that, but all the seams will crack. That's why you tape and put 3 coats of compound on the seams.


----------



## begal (Jul 23, 2014)

ok makes sense. But what if you put a bead of PL construction glue in there first, then filled in with drywall compound?


----------



## craig11152 (Jun 20, 2015)

begal said:


> ok makes sense. But what if you put a bead of PL construction glue in there first, then filled in with drywall compound?


 Tape is cheap and only adds a couple minutes to the job. You only tape once.


----------



## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

begal said:


> ok makes sense. But what if you put a bead of PL construction glue in there first, then filled in with drywall compound?


Try it and let us know. I'm betting it will crack. It will also take longer and cost more. 

If you are applying the drywall compound anyway it doesn't add any time to apply tape at the same time.


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Begal:

You need to understand drywall:

Drywall is surprisingly strong and rigid considering what it's made of. The reason for that is entirely due to the fact that paper is very strong in tension. Fold up a sheet of paper until it's only an inch or so wide and try pulling it apart until it breaks. You'll find that very hard to do.

So, the reason drywall is surprisingly strong and rigid considering what it's made of, is that for drywall to bend, the paper on either side of the drywall has to stretch, and paper is very strong in tension. The strength of the paper prevents it from stretching, and that's what makes drywall so resistant to bending (considering what it's made of).

The weak link in the chain comes at the drywall joints. At the joints, you have to add paper to carry the tension across the joint if the drywall wants to bend. That's the whole reason for taping the drywall joints; to carry any tension across the joint so that the joint compound doesn't have to stretch, and therefore break. Drywall joint compound is actually fairly weak in tension, so you need that paper (or fiberglass) in it to carry any tension.

Exactly the same thing is done to make "reinforced" concrete stronger than regular concrete. In a "reinforced" concrete slab, there will be steel rebars embedded in the concrete an inch or two from each side. So, for the reinforced concrete slab to bend, then the steel rebars on one side or the other have to stretch. Steel is very strong in tension, and it's the resistance of those steel rebars to stretching that prevents the reinforced concrete slab from bending and therefore breaking. Were it not for the steel rebars in a reinforced concrete slab, the concrete would bend and break relatively easily. Where you see steel rebar placed only in the MIDDLE of a concrete slab, such as a driveway, then the purpose of the rebar is not to prevent the slab from bending, but only to hole it together if and when it cracks.

Now, imagine you have a reinforced concrete slab, but you were to somehow cut through the steel rebars on both sides of the slab. Now, if the concrete slab wants to bend, that's the spot where it will break. That's essentially what you have at a drywall joint; a break in the material that's preventing the drywall from bending. Taping a drywall joint is similar to welding steel rebars across the cut to reconnect the rebar on both sides of the cut. That re-establishes the strength of the reinforced concrete and make it work like it's supposed to.

Getting back to drywall:

What drywall companies recommend is that if you're going to use a fiberglass mesh tape on your joints, then your first coat of joint compound should be a "hot" mud, which means a joint compound with a chemical set to it that kicks in after a certain length of time. Synko makes chemical set drywall joint compounds that kick in after 30, 60, and 90 minutes, and I'm sure other chemical set times are available from other producers. It's the chemicals that cause that chemical set that result in the joint compound setting up stronger than regular joint compounds. Since fiberglass mesh joint tape is a little weaker in tension that regular paper drywall tape, you need the extra strength of a chemical set joint compound on the first coat to compensate for the weaker tape.

If you're using paper tape, (and if you're new to finishing drywall joints, you're probably going to find that to be an extremely frustrating experience) then you should use a "regular" or "Taping" joint compound for your first coat.

In each case, after the first coat you can use a "Finish" or "Topping" joint compound or an "All Purpose" joint compound if you wish.

Joint compounds actually come in three flavours;
1. "Regular" or "Taping"
2. "Finish" or "Topping", and
3. "All Purpose"

The difference between these is really in how much glue there is in them. The more glue, the better the joint compound sticks to the drywall, but the harder it dries and the harder it is to sand smooth. "Regular" joint compound has the most glue in it, so you would use that for your first coat so that it sticks to the drywall really well, and you probably won't be sanding much of that first coat. "Finish" joint compound has the least glue in it, so that it sands down fast and easy. "All Purpose" is half way in between Regular and Finish, and it's popular with drywall contractors who are doing drywall repairs so that they only have to carry around and use one kind of joint compound instead of two.

If you want to "soup up" your drywall joints, don't start caulking with a construction adhesive because your strength is entirely in the wrong place. You want the strength to be in the same plane as the face paper of the surrounding drywall. However, regardless of whether you use paper or fiberglass tape, that strength is a small fraction of an inch below being flush with the surrounding drywall face paper. Still, you can "soup up" your drywall joints if you're using fiberglass mesh by painting over the mesh with white wood glue diluted with water to make it into a paintable consistency. As the glue dries, it will bond the fiberglass mesh to the drywall paper, making for a stronger bond between the two, and that makes for a stronger joint. If you use a 3 inch paint roller to do the painting, that work goes very quickly. Try to paint the mesh on each side of the joint so as to prevent plugging up the holes in the mesh near the middle. You want your joint compound to be able to go through that mesh and fill the gap between the sheets of drywall.

Anyhow, people that are proficient at using paper tape to finish drywall joints will crap on fiberglass mesh tape. But, from a DIY'ers perspective, fiberglass mesh tape makes finishing drywall joints a breeze, and if you use a "hot mud" for your first application of joint compound, you should achieve the same joint strength as a properly finished paper joint.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Also look into FibaFuse tape Lowe's is starting to carry it. Not to be confused with FibaTape it is a much better tape and a lot easier to use on the joints. Just my opinion but anything is better than the mesh.


----------



## keymaster (Jul 28, 2015)

begal said:


> ok makes sense. But what if you put a bead of PL construction glue in there first, then filled in with drywall compound?



I once had a contractor repair a ceiling crack (that they had caused) and he used construction adhesive instead of caulk. He was quite proud of it. 

Ask me if that cracked....

(Caulk, used properly--not as a catchall solution for bad construction--is flexible, and designed to be part of a movement joint.)

Making the joint rigid won't stop the movement, it just translates it slightly, very slightly. (The construction adhesive just crumbled out of the joint as the gypsum around it broke down. I ended up with the same, only much wider crack.)


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

begal said:


> Is the tape only for strength ? Can you just fill it with mud and sand it down?


No, mostly for appearance. Per manufacturer of drywall, you are required to fill 1/8" and smaller gaps at joints with air-drying or chem. set. Larger gaps require chemical set only. It has to air-tight to meet minimum code requirements (and stay that way)- check with local AHJ. Shear-wall doesn't require taping joints as the racking resistance of a wall is by using 4' wide panels. Paper tape is better at hiding seismic hairline cracks than mesh tape which shows surface finish flaking and buckling under testing. Ask Inspector for acceptable alternatives to taping... Sound prevention may require it but fire prevention doesn't- unless Type X board- or similar for more than basic 15 minute rating.

Gary


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Begal asked: Is the tape only for strength? Can you just fill the joint with compound and sand it down?



Gary in WA said:


> No, mostly for appearance.
> -Gary


Huh?

I'm presuming that you mean that untaped joints would detract from the appearance of the wall if and when they crack.

I couldn't see how an untaped joint would look any different (initially at least) than a taped joint.


----------



## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Use some water to dilute the bedding coat of tape to the consistency close to that of sour cream. Makes things WAY easier. Ron


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If you don't use tape it will crack. The reason the edges are tapered is so when the are tapped and mudded the taper fills in and you have a flat surface.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Code doesn't require the tape if all edges have wood backing behind them- and others I said. You can just fill the tapered edges to meet code for the required 1/2" thickness (15 min. fire). But, why not tape if you have to fill it anyway... you could use square edge board and not fill edges or fasteners with anything, and still meet code- if one likes that look...lol. IMO, hot mud won't crack without tape as I have used it many times on plaster wall repairs, 40 years ago- no cracks yet.

Gary


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

ront02769 said:


> Use some water to dilute the bedding coat of tape to the consistency close to that of sour cream. Makes things WAY easier. Ron



I was researching just the other day and read this, (maybe too easy; lol);http://www.durabilityanddesign.com/blog/?fuseaction=view&blogID=108

Gary


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ToolSeeker said:


> Also look into FibaFuse tape Lowe's is starting to carry it. Not to be confused with FibaTape


FibaFuse is the best of both worlds, and basically all I use for most straight seams now. And this is coming from someone who can tape with paper just fine. If you're not good with paper, then it's not even a question - just buy it.

There is no reason now to even ask the question of whether tape is needed, because mudding over FibaFuse is almost as easy as mudding without it.

Why this hasn't caught on yet more widely I can't say. It's not available in Home Depot stores yet. I order online, get the "ship to store" option, and pick up with my next trip to the store.

I'm glad to hear Lowe's is starting to carry it. In my area it is still not available in stores.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Gary in WA said:


> IMO, hot mud won't crack without tape as I have used it many times on plaster wall repairs, 40 years ago- no cracks yet.


Those aren't drywall joints.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

jeffnc said:


> FibaFuse is the best of both worlds, and basically all I use for most straight seams now. And this is coming from someone who can tape with paper just fine. If you're not good with paper, then it's not even a question - just buy it.
> 
> There is no reason now to even ask the question of whether tape is needed, because mudding over FibaFuse is almost as easy as mudding without it.
> 
> ...


Jeff I think you answered your own question the reason it hasn't caught on more is because nobody is carrying it. So to order it most places you had to order a case. For a DIY this would let several lifetimes. If you have a Lowe's near overtime you go in ask for it and tell them other stores are carrying it and they will get it.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ToolSeeker said:


> Jeff I think you answered your own question the reason it hasn't caught on more is because nobody is carrying it.


Catch-22, no?

I have asked my Home Depot manager to stock it. Hasn't happened yet....

Modern stores are supposed to be leading the way with new products that are obviously good, whether the consumer knows that yet or not.


----------



## jimn (Nov 13, 2010)

Modern stores particular big box stores sell established products that have a proven turn over ratio. They don't want to carry excess inventory. Or they carry goods that the distributor pays them to stock and sell and incurs the risk. For example I used to work for a retail chain in the east that sold many brands of conuer grade SLR cameras . One company that was an old company but had a minuscule market share


----------



## MrBryan (Apr 28, 2011)

There is a lot of what I would consider to be bad advice in this thread :whistling2:. Here's what has worked best for me after doing many drywall jobs in my own homes over the years:

-Always use paper tape (not mesh) on ALL joints!! It is really not that hard.

-Use hot mud to set the tape, preferably for the first 2 coats. DO NOT use watered down premixed mud to set the tape, I guarantee it will crack maybe not right away but definitely in the first 6-12 months. Hot mud isn't that hard to mix and it dries way stronger. Just get a drill attachment and mix in a 5 gallon bucket.

-Factoring in time to mix hot mud should not add time to the overall job. Consider 90 minute hot mud. If you get one batch to last an hour, you will have to stop and mix the next batch by now. If you are using the premixed mud, after an hour you will be stopping anyways to stir what's left in the bucket and possibly add a splash of water to keep it from drying out. Time-wise it is all the same. Actually hot mud should move the job along faster since you will spend less time waiting for it to dry before applying the next coat.

-If you have to sand before you apply the third coat, you are applying too much mud. At this stage, you should be able to knock down any high spots with your knife and move on.

-By the third coat, you should have strong seams and you should only be filling in shallow spots to get a smooth, finished surface. No need for hot mud for the final coat, knock yourself out with the pre mixed stuff. This coat should be relatively thin and will dry pretty fast anyways.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

MrBryan said:


> -Always use paper tape (not mesh) on ALL joints!! It is really not that hard.


FibaFuse improves on both paper and mesh in some ways. I assume you haven't used it yet. Also, it _*is*_ hard for most DIYers to avoid bubbles with paper tape. Again, FibaFuse fixes these problems.



MrBryan said:


> -Use hot mud to set the tape, preferably for the first 2 coats. DO NOT use watered down premixed mud to set the tape, I guarantee it will crack maybe not right away but definitely in the first 6-12 months.


Before I respond to the rest, let's get the correct terms down straight. There are two basic types of joint compound. They are
- setting compound
- drying compound

Those are the correct terms, because some people refer to "premixed" or "powdered". Those are the incorrect terms. Drying compound is often premixed, but is also available as a powder to mix. Setting compound is never premixed, but must always be mixed as a powder.

Setting compound relies on a chemical reaction to harden. It gets hard before it gets wet (we all know that problem guys!! :laughing Drying compound must dry to get hard.

There are further types, such as All Purpose, Taping, or Topping. Then there is full weight, mid weight, lightweight, ultra lightweight to further complicate matters.

It's true that setting compound (what you are calling "hot mud") is the strongest version, but it does have some drawbacks. Drying compound is plenty strong enough and certainly does not crack within 6-12 months if the proper type is used and it is applied properly.

What you are calling "watered down" is simply adding a very small amount of water and mixing, which is always desirable (the mixing) for premixed compound to smooth it. The amount of water added is really insignificant - the mixing is more important than the adding of any water.

Of course the drying compound should be the full weight All Purpose (or better yet Taping compound.) There is a trend to use Lightweight joint compounds for taping, and that's where some problems start. This is the preferred drying compound for taping.
https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...ds/sheetrock-brand-taping-joint-compound.html

Note that it's available both premixed and as a powder, but either way it's a drying compound perfectly formulated for the stronger first coat of taping.

These are also acceptable, if not optimal in terms of strength
https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...ds/sheetrockbrandallpurposejointcompound.html

https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...-brand-lightweight-taping-joint-compound.html



MrBryan said:


> -Factoring in time to mix hot mud should not add time to the overall job.


This sentence is grammatically strange, but you seem to be trying to say that mixing setting compound from powder does not take more time than using premixed. Well of course it does.



MrBryan said:


> If you are using the premixed mud, after an hour you will be stopping anyways to stir what's left in the bucket and possibly add a splash of water to keep it from drying out.


Not really. Setting compound dries at the same rate that drying compound does.



MrBryan said:


> Actually hot mud should move the job along faster since you will spend less time waiting for it to dry before applying the next coat.


This is true of course. If you are working on a job, and your job is small enough that you can finish the first coat in less than a day, then setting compound is absolutely the way to go to save time and get started on that second coat. For doing smaller areas or patches, then setting compound is virtually a must, unless you like making 3 trips to do one job. Two coats of setting compound followed by one coat of finish drying compound can be done in as little as 1/2 hour and one trip, depending on the size of the job.



MrBryan said:


> By the third coat, you should have strong seams and you should only be filling in shallow spots to get a smooth, finished surface. No need for hot mud for the final coat, knock yourself out with the pre mixed stuff. This coat should be relatively thin and will dry pretty fast anyways.


Just be careful because the lightweight topping coats sand easier than the setting compound. It's even easier than the "EasySand" type of setting compound ("EasySand" is relative to DuraBond.) It's easy to sand a depression in your 3rd coat if you're not careful, if you mix your compounds.

Bottom line: use setting compound if
- you need the compound to get hard before waiting until the next day, as with drying compound
- you need extra strength or humidity resistance (such as exterior) for some particular application (not standard interior seams)
- you feel the need to use mesh tape for some reason. Since most people use mesh tape as a convenience, and then use premixed compound with it for the same convenience, they are not really helping themselves.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I will add I have seams in my house that are 15 years old no hot mud=no cracks. Setting muds are not hard to mix for a pro who has mixed it for years, if you have never used it can be an SOB to mix. Not enough water it's hard to work, too much water makes it brittle when it dries, use warm water it dries quicker, use cold water it dries slower. If your not a pro at taping it's hard to sand.


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I thought I'd chime in here because I've been using Synko ProSet 90, and then when Synko changed it's packaging, Synko ProSet 90 LiteSand, for the past 30 years or so.

The 90 means it has a chemical set that kicks in after 90 minutes. Synko also makes ProSet in 30, 60 and 120 minute formulations, but 90 is the most commonly available.

I'm here to tell newbies that there is nothing to be wary of when using a chemical set joint compound. If you use a reasonable size mixing container, like small to medium size soup cans, you'll typically run out of joint compound before the chemical set kicks in, so in that respect you'll never notice the difference between chemical set joint compounds and normal drying compounds. In my 30 years experience, I can only remember a dozen (or so) times that my joint compound hardened up on me when I was still using it.

The chemical set comes on quite rapidly; within a few minutes. So, your joint compound is soft and easy to spread one minute, and by the next minute it's kinda stiff, and another minute later, you can't even mix it.

I disagree with any advice to add water to a chemical set joint compound once it starts to set up. Doing that is just going to result in a weaker joint compound. Better to just mix up more joint compound.

But, so what if the joint compound on your wall is damp and stiff. You can't sand it because it'll just clog up your sanding screen, but you can SCRAPE it down with a paint scraper and put on another coat; this one smoother than the last. Joint compound that's set up will be stiff, but not hard as a rock. You can scrape it down quite easily with a paint scraper.

Also, I've been heckled by people who's minds are closed to new ideas. We all know that the biggest difference between taping compounds and topping compounds is the amount of glue in it. The taping compounds have more glue so they stick better, dry harder and therefore are harder to sand smooth. If you use a topping compound like Synko ProSet 90 LiteSand, you can always make it stick better and dry harder by adding white wood glue to it. What I do is put some water into my mixing container, add some white wood glue (Either Weldbond or equivalent) and mix the glue into the water. Then I add the ProSet powder and mix it to a consistancy that will be easy to spread. I can add a lot of glue to make a joint compound that sticks like crazy and dries hard and strong, or I can add no glue and have a joint compound that sands down smooth quickly and easily. And, I've been doing that for three decades without any problems or issues. Someone tell me that I'm making a mistake by doing that.

Also, for bigger jobs where you need to mix more joint compound, you need a way of mixing powdered joint compound quickly. What I recommend is that DIY'ers go to any place that repairs small appliances like small handheld electric kitchen mixers. Those places replace the blades on those things all the time and chuck the old blades in the garbage. Ask them to save some for you. You can put one of those mixer blades in an electric drill and use it to mix joint compound. You just have to use a pair of pliers to bend the blade so that it gets right into the bottom of your mixing container.










Do your mixing in a cardboard box. That way, you can raise the spinning blade out of the joint compound without getting joint compound spattered all over your work space. Then clean the blade by spinning it in a pail of water. Be careful about sticking your fingers into that spinning blade!

And, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS have a bright light shining at a sharp angle to the place you're working to exagerate the roughness of your plastering work. The light will show you where you need to add joint compound and where you need to remove it to get a smoother flatter surface. That is most of the battle when doing your own drywall or plaster work.

By the way, most repairs to real plaster are done with a base coat plaster, which you can buy from any place listed under "Plaster & Drywall Supplies" in your yellow pages, and drywall joint compound. The drywall joint compound replaces the white "gauging" coat, which is the top layer of real lime putty based plaster. Years ago, it took a lot of skill to mix the base coat plaster because the more sand you put in it the cheaper it was, but the heavier it was and the greater liklihood that it would fall off by itself. Nowadays, base coat plasters have perlite in them instead of sand, so they're much lighter. Also, they have powdered glue in them to make them stick very much better than the old lime putty based plasters did. So, nowadays, using a base coat plaster and joint compound to repair real plaster walls is a breeze compared to using real lime putty and sand to do the repair.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> Also, for bigger jobs where you need to mix more joint compound, you need a way of mixing powdered joint compound quickly. What I recommend is that DIY'ers go to any place that repairs small appliances like small handheld electric kitchen mixers. Those places replace the blades on those things all the time and chuck the old blades in the garbage. Ask them to save some for you. You can put one of those mixer blades in an electric drill and use it to mix joint compound. You just have to use a pair of pliers to bend the blade so that it gets right into the bottom of your mixing container.


Why wouldn't you just use a tool designed for the purpose?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-1-4-in-x-11-in-Steel-Power-Mixer-81-004/100392767

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-1-Gallon-Helix-Paint-Mixer-HM1HD/202251542

Of course larger ones for larger amounts.



Nestor_Kelebay said:


> Do your mixing in a cardboard box. That way, you can raise the spinning blade out of the joint compound without getting joint compound spattered all over your work space.


Why not just mix it in a bucket?


----------



## wetech (Aug 4, 2012)

jeffnc said:


> Why wouldn't you just use a tool designed for the purpose?
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-1-4-in-x-11-in-Steel-Power-Mixer-81-004/100392767
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-1-Gallon-Helix-Paint-Mixer-HM1HD/202251542
> ...


I think he means to put the bucket in a box so you don't splatter everywhere..


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

wetech said:


> I think he means to put the bucket in a box so you don't splatter everywhere..


Oh :whistling2: It's hard enough on the arms holding that mixer in the stiff compound, it sounds really awkward holding it over the edge of a cardboard box. But it would allow you to spin the paddle out of the compound to start cleaning it off.


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Yes, I meant that you should put your mixing container in a cardboard box and do the mixing inside the box to prevent spattering joint compound all over the place.

The thought that someone would understand that to mean you should mix a whole lotta joint compound in a cardboard box instead of a soup can (or whatever) never even crossed my mind.


----------



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Nestor_Kelebay said:


> The thought that someone would understand that to mean you should mix a whole lotta joint compound in a cardboard box instead of a soup can (or whatever) never even crossed my mind.


Well, you already had us using egg beaters instead of mud mixers, so that's what you get when you start people thinking outside the box!


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I disagree with any advice to add water to a chemical set joint compound once it starts to set up. Doing that is just going to result in a weaker joint compound. Better to just mix up more joint compound.


This is so true. Also if you don't clean your tools and container between batches the chemical reaction from the first batch can set off the new batch immediately.


----------



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> This is so true.


Sometimes, if not by luck then by the laws of probability, I do occasionally get something right.



ToolSeeker said:


> Also if you don't clean your tools and container between batches the chemical reaction from the first batch can set off the new batch immediately.


I haven't seen that happen in the Synko ProSet 90 LiteSand I use. I routinely mix up more and more joint compound in the same container, being careful to do that before the mud starts setting up. I also wash my egg mixer thoroughly after each mixing. And, that seems to have worked well for me so far.


----------



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Here's a couple hot mud mixing videos I put together.

Hand mixing hot mud:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSlc-PzG_Z0

Using a small paint mixer and cordless drill to mix hot mud:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmClZXCCEOw


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

"mix thick at first, adding water as you mix to get rid of any lumpy in the powder "

this is exactly the opposite of how i do it. i mix a smaller amount than i need, very thin. then i add powder to thicken it up and build up to the amount i need. i find this eliminates lumps faster and mixes a lot easier. ymmv.


----------



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Fix'n it said:


> "mix thick at first, adding water as you mix to get rid of any lumpy in the powder "
> 
> this is exactly the opposite of how i do it. i mix a smaller amount than i need, very thin. then i add powder to thicken it up and build up to the amount i need. i find this eliminates lumps faster and mixes a lot easier. ymmv.


Interesting. I look at the mixing like baking a cake. If you mix it thin at first you're going to get lumps. Mixing thick at first helps eliminate lumps.

But if it comes out like butter for you mixing it that way, it really doesn't matter how you get there. :thumbup:

Theres more than one way to skin a cat. :yes:


----------



## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Interesting. I look at the mixing like baking a cake. If you mix it thin at first you're going to get lumps. Mixing thick at first helps eliminate lumps.
> 
> But if it comes out like butter for you mixing it that way, it really doesn't matter how you get there. :thumbup:
> 
> Theres more than one way to skin a cat. :yes:


i watched your video after i posted. your way looks to work just fine, for you. 
you do have a different mixer than i had. mine was a squirle cage type. and in thick mud it would clog real easy. i need to get one like yours. 

no. mixing it thin at first helps to break up the lumps a lot faster. again, this is my experience. and you have a LOT more experience than i do. 


yep, long as it turns out well, thats all that matters :yes:


----------



## MikeL6289 (Feb 4, 2020)

You can definitely finish drywall joints without any tape. Just fill the gaps with tapeless drywall mud. Tapeless drywall finishing is now available in North America.


----------



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

@MikeL6289, you are responding to a 5 year old thread, and your suggestion is humorous, but totally flawed.


----------



## MikeL6289 (Feb 4, 2020)

chandler48 said:


> @MikeL6289, you are responding to a 5 year old thread, and your suggestion is humorous, but totally flawed.


Haha, I was searching about drywall finishing on google and found this old thread pretty interesting. The drywall industry is changing now. If you google “tapeless drywall finishing” you will see some interesting products there. You sure can finish drywall without any tape now. :vs_laugh:


----------

