# Need Help with Exterior Door Moulding



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

PVC brick mold.

Sent from my RCT6213W22 using Tapatalk


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

rjniles said:


> PVC brick mold.
> 
> Sent from my RCT6213W22 using Tapatalk


Is this what you are referring to? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Azek-96...C-White-Brick-Moulding-ARMBM02096HD/302480920 

If so I believe that is what the door came with and is no where near thick enough to go from the door frame past the gap.


----------



## John Smith_inFL (Jun 15, 2018)

if you get the PVC brick molding, you can build up fillers
with the same PVC flat stock and it will look great.
ensure your door is perfectly plumb and water tight
prior to making anything permanent with the molding.

,

,


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

What does the other side look like? Is the gap the same or smaller on the other side? Is the door frame/jamb centered in the structural framing?


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Here are a couple pics of the door. There is no gap on the top 1/2 of the other side due to the siding, but where there is gap at the bottom it's the same width as the other side. Yes, the door is centered in the structural opening.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

See the extra wood they put in before the molding that came with the door.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> See the extra wood they put in before the molding that came with the door.


 yes, I see wood under the brick moulding. Are you guys saying to build the edges out from the door frame to where it covers the gap and then install the crock moulding on top of the shim?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pindude80 said:


> yes, I see wood under the brick moulding. Are you guys saying to build the edges out from the door frame to where it covers the gap and then install the crock moulding on top of the shim?


 They have installed a trim of 1x? from the brick over to cover all but 1/8 inch of the door jam and them put the molding against the brick. The molding that came with the door will likely be to short for this.


I would like to know what was done under the door when it was installed.
There is a good procedure that should be done. If not, this would be the time to re do it right.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Ok, so would I just need to get something thicker than 1"? I can hold the tape measure up to it and take a couple pictures to post when I get home.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pindude80 said:


> Ok, so would I just need to get something thicker than 1"? I can hold the tape measure up to it and take a couple pictures to post when I get home.


Not thicker than 1" wide enough to get close to the brick.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

The depth, or width from the weather stripping out appears to be too short on the stock purchased door. They actually sell a spacer or extender, I do believe, my terminology might be off. But it's not necessary to purchase the spacer or extender when a 1 x will do. The extender is installed flush with the inside of the jamb, glued and nailed, hopefully extending over and secured flush with the framing(hopefully, so it won't get cockeyed or buck out at the jamb side when nailed to the framing), closing up the gap. Then brick molding is installed to the extender, with a reveal on jamb side, and close to the brick on the other. You may have to rip the extender width, have a table saw?

What is the shortest width of the distance from the inside of the jamb to the brick? The difference between that distance and the width of the brick moulding will determine your reveal. The reveal being the stagger from jamb to brick moulding that you will later caulk.

I hope that makes sense, my head is on a little backwards today.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

ZEW496 said:


> The depth, or width from the weather stripping out appears to be too short on the stock purchased door. They actually sell a spacer or extender, I do believe, my terminology might be off. But it's not necessary to purchase the spacer or extender when a 1 x will do. The extender is installed flush with the inside of the jamb, glued and nailed, hopefully extending over and secured flush with the framing(hopefully, so it won't get cockeyed or buck out at the jamb side when nailed to the framing), closing up the gap. Then brick molding is installed to the extender, with a reveal on jamb side, and close to the brick on the other. You may have to rip the extender width, have a table saw?
> 
> What is the shortest width of the distance from the inside of the jamb to the brick? The difference between that distance and the width of the brick moulding will determine your reveal. The reveal being the stagger from jamb to brick moulding that you will later caulk.
> 
> I hope that makes sense, my head is on a little backwards today.


I follow most of what you are saying. I should have mentioned it in my original post that I don't have much carpentry experience so some terminology and procedures are a little tough for me to understand and follow, but I'm learning!

I took a couple measurements at lunch today. One thing I did notice that might cause a problem is the brown piece of wood that the home builder installed to the block sticks out a little farther than the door frame itself. The brick moulding is 2" wide and 1" thick whereas the distance from the wall to inside of the door frame is 3" which will leave me with a 1" reveal versus I think 1/8" is normal for a reveal?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

1x3 wood trim should measure 3/4 x 2 1/2 get a piece of that and hold it here and take a picture.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

The brick moulding is 1" thick on the inside(at the jamb reveal), and 1 1/4" thick at the brick side. So 1 x material, which is actually 3/4" thick, plus the 1 1/4" thick brick moulding will get you the 2" to that old caulk line. Follow? So, you're good there.

As far as the sides, keep in mind what you do to one side, you also want to do to the other. You want both sides to look the same.

Unless someone is seeing something I am not, you can just pull that piece of "brown" wood off, and any other "brown" wood blocking around the framing. It's not attached to the block, rather to the wood framing, yeah? 1 x material will take it's place, from location on the framing where the "brown" board is,...to? The question is, the size of your reveal. You have 3" of space to work with from inside of the jamb to the brick. The brick moulding is 2" wide. 1" reveal from jamb to brick mould?

1) You can attach a 1 x, on one side flush with the inside of the jamb, and the other fastened to the framing for support and to provide a nailing surface for your brick moulding....essentially on that side taking the place of the "brown" board you removed. The thing is, if you then install 2" wide brick moulding against the brick on the outside, that will leave you a 1" reveal.

2) You can split the difference, a staggered reveal. Stagger from the stock jamb a half inch to the 1x material, and then another half inch to the brick moulding. That could either look like an added aesthetic to your trim work, or it could look as though you had to work with a larger than ideal gap and did what you must. Also, another caulk line and potential area where at some point water could enter should the caulk ever crack or open.

3) The only other option would be extender 1x flush with the inside of the jamb and a smaller reveal between a 1/4" - 1/2". But that will leave you a larger gap to caulk at the brick side of the brick moulding.

Maybe someone else will chime in. I think I might favor the simple 1" reveal and small gap to caulk at the brick. Remember, take both sides into consideration, the measurements. Whatever you choose to do, you want to do to one side as you do to the other....to look the same. The extender doesn't necessarily need to span the entire width, from flush with inside of the jamb to the brick. Just as long as one side is fastened to the stock jamb, and the other to the framing to provide a solid nailing surface for the brick moulding. 1x3(actual dimensions 3/4" x 2 1/2") furring strips will work. You will also want to scrape off as much of that old caulk as possible from the brick before recaulking. Would be good to prime all sides of the furring strips prior to installation.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> The brick moulding is 1" thick on the inside(at the jamb reveal), and 1 1/4" thick at the brick side. So 1 x material, which is actually 3/4" thick, plus the 1 1/4" thick brick moulding will get you the 2" to that old caulk line. Follow? So, you're good there.
> 
> As far as the sides, keep in mind what you do to one side, you also want to do to the other. You want both sides to look the same.
> 
> ...


The 1/2" thick blocks represent the 1/2 sheeting that is not there


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

One other thing.

The brick molding that came with your door, the top horizontal piece of brick moulding will be too short to use with a custom installation. You can use that brick moulding if you choose, but the width will dictate your reveal, leaving you a large gap to caulk at the brick.

Assemble your brick mould on the ground, flat surface, line up mitered corners and screw in from the side. Pre-drilling wouldn't hurt. Lift into place and face nail.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

ZEW496 said:


> Unless someone is seeing something I am not, you can just pull that piece of "brown" wood off, and any other "brown" wood blocking around the framing. It's not attached to the block, rather to the wood framing, yeah? 1 x material will take it's place, from location on the framing where the "brown" board is,...to? The question is, the size of your reveal. You have 3" of space to work with from inside of the jamb to the brick. The brick moulding is 2" wide. 1" reveal from jamb to brick mould?


 the brown board is what the door frame is screwed too and it looks like it is cut nailed into the block so I don't think I could get it off without pulling the whole door off from the way I'm looking at it.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> The 1/2" thick blocks represent the 1/2 sheeting that is not there


Is that blocking 1 by material (3/4" thick), or actually 1/2" thick blocking? Either way, removing that material and replacing with 1 by material, no harm done? Distance the framing to which that blocking is nailed to old caulk line is perfect for a 1 by plus the thickness of outside edge of the brick moulding(3/4" + 1 1/4" = 2")


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> 1x3 wood trim should measure 3/4 x 2 1/2 get a piece of that and hold it here and take a picture.


 I stopped at Home Depot after work. They said they didn't have any 1 x 3 trim but I did get a 1 x 3 piece of Common Board, that measured as you described. I removed the like spacer blocks that were on the brown board and nailed up the common board tight in the corner like you asked me to do.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

pindude80 said:


> the brown board is what the door frame is screwed too and it looks like it is cut nailed into the block so I don't think I could get it off without pulling the whole door off from the way I'm looking at it.


Hm. From the pictures it appears to be just face nailed to the edge of the framing, I assumed the purpose to provide either a nailing surface and/or support for the previous brick moulding.

Let's see what Neal has to say, he knows a lot more about various topics than I.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

from above..


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pindude80 said:


> I stopped at Home Depot after work. They said they didn't have any 1 x 3 trim but I did get a 1 x 3 piece of Common Board, that measured as you described. I removed the like spacer blocks that were on the brown board and nailed up the common board tight in the corner like you asked me to do.


Does it sit flat if you put it on the little block that is on the stud.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

When you said "brown board" I assumed you meant the small sections of blocking. So you've removed the blocking? It appears that the framing (stud plus padded out wood strips) is proud and a 1 x will not sit flush on the door jamb side?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Trim-Bo...tual-719-in-x-2-5-in-x-96-in-424600/202085979


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> When you said "brown board" I assumed you meant the small sections of blocking. So you've removed the blocking? It appears that the framing (stud plus padded out wood strips) is proud and a 1 x will not sit flush on the door jamb side?


The blocks were there to bring the it out to flush with the jam, he needs to put them back on.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Forgive me if I am being dense or missing something....blocking would make it flush with the old jamb, which was deeper? The jamb on the new stock door is less deep, thus the need for an extension, the new 1x3 acting as the extension?

https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ask-toh/extending-door-jambs

It appears from his picture that even with the blocking removed and a 1x3 extension nailed to the framing, it's going to be proud and not going to sit flush on the jamb, leaving a gap.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> Forgive me if I am being dense or missing something....blocking would make it flush with the old jamb, which was deeper? The jamb on the new stock door is less deep, thus the need for an extension, the new 1x3 acting as the extension?
> 
> https://www.thisoldhouse.com/ask-toh/extending-door-jambs
> 
> It appears from his picture that even with the blocking removed and a 1x3 extension nailed to the framing, it's going to be proud and not going to sit flush on the jamb, leaving a gap.


Normally the brick mold that comes with the door sits against the 1/2" sheeting on the outside of a house. As they is no sheeting in the picture the door jam is proud of the stud by 1/2" so some one put 3 1/2" blocks to represent the thickness of the missing sheeting.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

One of my own doors (shame on me, I haven't finished it).

The jamb on the stock door I purchased was not as deep as the old one I replaced. I ripped with the table saw 1 x stock to extend the jamb out to the same depth as the previous door. Actually I ripped the width, the depth was okay with the stock 1 by material(actual dimension 3/4"). I would rather the cut side be on the inside of the jamb, easier to sand/prep, all other sides uncut and primed. The extension was glued and nailed flush to the edge of the jamb, no reveal. The brick molding was glued and nailed to the extension. I was more fortunate than the OP, with the outer edge of the brick molding close to the brick, as little gap as possible at the brick to caulk, I was left with a reasonable 7/16" at the brick molding/extension reveal.

I'm not a carpenter, or framer, and installing doors is far from my specialty. However, if I were to give advice to the OP.....Leave that blocking off. The older door had a deeper jamb, and those blocks on the framing side were out at the same depth as the old jamb. They no longer serve the same purpose as originally intended. I could be wrong, but it appears from your picture that the framing (stud plus "brown wood" padding strips) as it is now is proud of your new stock jamb as it has been installed. If you mount a 1x3 extension on the framing side, it will be proud where you would like to nail it flush at the jamb side, leaving a gap. If you can get your hands on a table saw, rip a notch in the 1x3 on the framing side, making it a thickness necessary to lay flush at the jamb side. After that you can install your brick molding. The distance from the brick to the inside of the jamb is 3", your brick molding is 2" wide. So, you have a decision to make. A 1" reveal with small gap to caulk at the brick. A staggered reveal. Reveal at extension, and again a reveal at the brick molding, brick molding close to brick with small gap to caulk. Or, choose whatever size reveal you would like and have a larger gap to caulk at the brick.

I could be wrong. Good luck.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> One of my own doors (shame on me, I haven't finished it).
> 
> The jamb on the stock door I purchased was not as deep as the old one I replaced. I ripped with the table saw 1 x stock to extend the jamb out to the same depth as the previous door. Actually I ripped the width, the depth was okay with the stock 1 by material(actual dimension 3/4"). I would rather the cut side be on the inside of the jamb, easier to sand/prep, all other sides uncut and primed. The extension was glued and nailed flush to the edge of the jamb, no reveal. The brick molding was glued and nailed to the extension. I was more fortunate than the OP, with the outer edge of the brick molding close to the brick, as little gap as possible at the brick to caulk, I was left with a reasonable 7/16" at the brick molding/extension reveal.
> 
> ...


He has the other problem the wall and door would have been right if the sheeting was on the stud, the blocks are needed. , did you look at the picture I posted earlier?


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

The "from above" illustration?

The illustration doesn't appear to show the blocking. Maybe I am not seeing the photos clearly. The photos appear the show studs kind of obscured by insulation. On the outside edge of the stud is a nailing strip, the "brown wood" as he called it (I originally thought he was speaking of the blocking). Then, there is the blocking, which i believe he has now removed. If what I think I am seeing is actually what I am seeing in the photo, your "above" illustration does not include the blocking, only the stud and the nailing strip. Moving forward...With the blocking removed, the stud and nailing strip combo is _still_ proud of the jamb. But let's just say if the framing wasn't proud, but even with the jamb. There would still be no purpose to leave the blocking....the extension will replace the blocking at the framing side while also extending at the jamb. There is no purpose in multiple blocking sections when a single peace of 1x stock from top to bottom will do. In addition to that, a 1x3 is 2.5" wide, which according to the picture exceeds the distance from the inside of the jamb to the edge of the "brown" nailing strip. In other words, if the blocking remains, the 1x3 butted against the blocking will cause the 1x to extend past the inside jamb. 1x3 is actually 2.5", distance from inside jamb to edge of framing looks to be 2 3/8". A single 1x3 will overlap the framing. Not by much, 1/8", more would be better, but enough to sink some nails to secure. That still leaves the problem of the framing being proud of the jamb. Notching the extension to necessary thickness could solve that problem.

I could be wrong!....wouldn't be the first time.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Okay, I took another look. There is no stud back there, the "brown wood" is 1x stock fastened to block? I still see no need for blocking when a single section of 1x3 extender stock from top to bottom will do.

Block interior walls with exterior brick facade? hm.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> The "from above" illustration?
> 
> The illustration doesn't appear to show the blocking. Maybe I am not seeing the photos clearly. The photos appear the show studs kind of obscured by insulation. On the outside edge of the stud is a nailing strip, the "brown wood" as he called it (I originally thought he was speaking of the blocking). Then, there is the blocking, which i believe he has now removed. If what I think I am seeing is actually what I am seeing in the photo, your "above" illustration does not include the blocking, only the stud and the nailing strip. Moving forward...With the blocking removed, the stud and nailing strip combo is _still_ proud of the jamb. But let's just say if the framing wasn't proud, but even with the jamb. There would still be no purpose to leave the blocking....the extension will replace the blocking at the framing side while also extending at the jamb. There is no purpose in multiple blocking sections when a single peace of 1x stock from top to bottom will do. In addition to that, a 1x3 is 2.5" wide, which according to the picture exceeds the distance from the inside of the jamb to the edge of the "brown" nailing strip. In other words, if the blocking remains, the 1x3 butted against the blocking will cause the 1x to extend past the inside jamb. 1x3 is actually 2.5", distance from inside jamb to edge of framing looks to be 2 3/8". A single 1x3 will overlap the framing. Not by much, 1/8", more would be better, but enough to sink some nails to secure. That still leaves the problem of the framing being proud of the jamb. Notching the extension to necessary thickness could solve that problem.
> 
> I could be wrong!....wouldn't be the first time.


 You keep saying the same thing, then ask for proof. The OP can put a square against the brick and the jam and see if the stud is proud our shy. 



They replaced a standard jam with a standard jam and the original installer solved the exact same problem with the three little blocks. 

A standard jam will always be 1/2" to deep if there is know sheeting on the stud.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

The section of wood he nailed to the framing _after_ removing the blocking, though kind of beat up and wonky, it appears to show the framing is proud of the jamb. I'd be interested to see what a square shows.

A jamb is a jamb is a jamb, I do not believe to be true. From personal experience, the stock pre-hung(s) I purchased for my own home required an extension to meet the same thickness as the old door I replaced. Did you see the This Old House link I posted?

Q: We've been renovating an old farmhouse and just discovered that the jambs on the prehung doors we ordered aren't wide enough to match the thickness of our old walls. 

Norm Abram, "This kind of problem often comes up when installing windows and prehung doors in an old house. The solution is simple: Extend the jambs with wood boards of similar thickness."

In the end, OP, listen to Neal. He knows _much more_ about all of this stuff than I do.....even if he is wrong this time. Just kidding Neal!


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

What is also going to be interesting to see....Is the installed door jamb plumb? Is the framing at the "brown wood" framing also plumb? You know how that goes, old work is often not plumb and square. If you fasten a 1x3 extension flush and tight to the jamb on one side, and also attempt to do the same at the framing on the other side, it is going to be a crap shoot if both are consistently equal depth and plumb from top to bottom. If you discover low spots on the framing, you can pad out where you would like to nail with shims or something like small squares or lengths of roofing shingles, doubled up if necessary depending on the gap.

I still think I am seeing that the "brown wood" framing is proud compared to the jamb. Even so, comparative plumb might still present a small challenge when bridging between the 2 with a 1x3.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Last night I was playing around with some of the 1 x 3 scrap that was about 2 inches wide. I think I can get a 1 x 1 or a 1 x 2, screw or nail it to the back of the brick moulding flush with the jamb side of the trim then, use 1 1/2" nails to nail through the moulding, the 1 x 2 and into the door frame- see pics. 

I discovered as one of you guys mentioned that my header piece is too narrow so I need to stop by Home Depot to see if they have something that matches the design of my current side pieces or do you think I should just buy new and start over?

Also, should I assemble the framing on the ground then face nail in place?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

So the stud was proud, That looks like it would work.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> So the stud was proud, That looks like it would work.


I think from reading your guys previous posts proud means stick out farther, if so, yes it sticks out farther than the door frame. 

Should I just get common wood or what would be best to make this out of? I will want to paint it all white when it's done.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pindude80 said:


> I think from reading your guys previous posts proud means stick out farther, if so, yes it sticks out farther than the door frame.
> 
> Should I just get common wood or what would be best to make this out of? I will want to paint it all white when it's done.


 Common wood is wet and when it dries it will shrink. So I would want that primed wood for all.
Trying to make them flush never looks good so when each piece is layered on do a little set back 1/8" or 1/4", that makes them look more natural..


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

ZEW496 said:


> What is also going to be interesting to see....Is the installed door jamb plumb? Is the framing at the "brown wood" framing also plumb? You know how that goes, old work is often not plumb and square. If you fasten a 1x3 extension flush and tight to the jamb on one side, and also attempt to do the same at the framing on the other side, it is going to be a crap shoot if both are consistently equal depth and plumb from top to bottom. If you discover low spots on the framing, you can pad out where you would like to nail with shims or something like small squares or lengths of roofing shingles, doubled up if necessary depending on the gap.
> 
> I still think I am seeing that the "brown wood" framing is proud compared to the jamb. Even so, comparative plumb might still present a small challenge when bridging between the 2 with a 1x3.


You were right sorry for my attitude. :smile:


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> pindude80 said:
> 
> 
> > I think from reading your guys previous posts proud means stick out farther, if so, yes it sticks out farther than the door frame.
> ...


 okay, so I'm guessing I should get the board that you linked me to that apparently the idiot I was talking to at Home Depot yesterday couldn't find?


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

pindude80 said:


> okay, so I'm guessing I should get the board that you linked me to that apparently the idiot I was talking to at Home Depot yesterday couldn't find?


If your store carries it, really you just make it up as you go along, you like to nail to the jam and the stud some how. That is what the last guy did with little blocks to make it work. It must have looked alright or you would have noticed it as being wrong.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Nealtw said:


> You were right sorry for my attitude. :smile:


I didn't take it as an attitude. It's fun to hash these things out sometimes. Let's just chalk it up to a rare occasion where we disagreed and turns out I was actually right. You're far more knowledgeable about myriad of subjects than I. :thumbsup:


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Don't attach the extension to the brick molding and then try to attach both brick molding and extension to the jamb. Attack the extension to the jamb, glued and nailed. _Then_ attach the brick molding to the extension, glued and nailed. Plan out well, once glued it's going to be tough to regroup and start over.

Let's start here: What kind of tools do you have, or can get your hands on, borrow?

Drill
Circular Saw?
Table Saw?
Nail Gun and Compressor?

You need 3 strips of wood to fashion an extension, to extend the depth of the jamb out to duplicate the old jamb. One on each side from bottom to top, and a shorter one that will fit between those two horizontally across the top. "Rip" means cut wood along the grain length wise rather than a cross cut. Did you see my door? I ripped lengths of pre-primed wood, one for each side, one for horizontal at the top. I chose to mount the wood on the jamb flush, but you can do a reveal(a set back) if you choose. I then did a reveal when I installed the brick molding to the extension. Your problem is, the inside of the jamb is so far away from the brick. If you make the extension flush with the inside of the jamb, you will have a 1" reveal when you install the brick molding. That's not the end of the world. However, you may choose to stagger the reveal. 1/2" reveal at the jamb/ extension junction, another 1/2' reveal when you install the brick molding. Whichever way you choose, that 1" reveal will make it so the edge of your brick molding is close to the brick, making it much more easier and neater to caulk.

Another problem you have, your framing is proud to your jamb. If you attach a 1x3 extension on one side to the jamb, and the other to the framing, it is going to be cockeyed because of the framing being proud. A solution, you need to find out how proud the framing is, and notch out the 1x3 extension on the framing side so it will sit flush on both the jamb and the framing without being cockeyed. It is pretty simple to do...with a table saw.

And, yes, measure & cut carefully and assemble your brick molding on the ground, a flat surface. Then lift into place, glue and nail. Assemble by lining up the corner miters, and screwing through the side and into the upper horizontal piece. You can smear a little caulk on the screw heads, but you'll never see them once the brick molding is installed.

Some of these things would be a lot easier with a nail gun. For instance, assemble the brick molding, apply glue, lift into place, and then tack it on with the nail gun rather than banging away with a hammer. After it is tacked into place and making good contact with the glued surface, you can go right back and secure things with finish nails and hammer.

Tools, man. Get some, start a collection you can utilize for projects in the future. You dig? For about 300-400 bucks you can probably get a small table saw, nail gun and compressor. Then you're golden to handle your project, and whatever might come up in the future. A circular saw and drill, you already have? Follow safety guidelines and wear eye protection.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

Nealtw said:


> Common wood is wet and when it dries it will shrink. So I would want that primed wood for all.
> Trying to make them flush never looks good so when each piece is layered on do a little set back 1/8" or 1/4", that makes them look more natural..


Thanks to your link I was able to find the exact aisle and location for the primed board.

Great idea about setting each layer back a little! 

I'll post up pics as I get back to it and make progress!


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

ZEW496 said:


> Don't attach the extension to the brick molding and then try to attach both brick molding and extension to the jamb. Attack the extension to the jamb, glued and nailed. _Then_ attach the brick molding to the extension, glued and nailed. Plan out well, once glued it's going to be tough to regroup and start over.
> 
> Let's start here: What kind of tools do you have, or can get your hands on, borrow?
> 
> ...


I actually have a lot of tools but I'm more of an automotive mechanic than a carpenter. I have a drill, bits, circular saw, and an air compressor but not a nail gun or a table saw.

Is gluing necessary? I was planning on nailing everything together but can glue if needed. I don't have a table saw but I can see if my brother or friend has one. How do you cut a notch in the 1x3 without going all the way through? Is there a depth adjustment on table saws?


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Yes, there is a depth adjustment on a table saw. Glue is not absolutely necessary, but it is good practice, imo. I should have noted you should also glue the miters on your bricking molding during assembly. Brick molding is a fairly large piece of trim, you don't want it moving around too much during change of weather conditions, expansion and contraction. Movement can also possibly cause your caulk lines to develop cracks, allowing moisture to get in there. Good quality caulk is your friend, also. Glue helps to keep things tight and minimize that movement. Go for a stable monolithic end product.

Of course you can place blocks of the needed thickness to the framing just as the previous guy did. Cut a strip of wood to make a jamb extension, then attach that strip to the jamb. Then attach blocks of the needed thickness to the "brown board" framing. This would allow you to adjust if there is a difference in the thickness of how proud the framing is to the jamb from top to bottom. Personally, I would rather do it all with one notched 1 x board from top to bottom if possible.

One thing I was noticing from your pictures when you were "playing around with some of the 1 x 3 scrap" -> Are you certain the door has been installed centered? It looks like the space between the inside of the jamb and the brick on the right side is greater than the space between the inside jamb and the wood siding(or whatever material it is) on the left side. Preferably it should be the same. If what I am seeing is accurate, and in order for both sides to look the same when trimmed-out, you will have to go with the lesser reveal, which is the left side. This is going to end with the brick molding having a bigger gap at the brick to caulk on the right side. Both reveals should...must look the same. Follow?

Just to check, if not obvious....measure between each side on the inside of the jamb, the jamb opening. Find the center there(divide the jamb opening by 2), mark the upper horizontal jamb at the center. Measure from that mark to the brick on the right. Measure from that mark to the wood siding on the left. Are those measurements the same? You don't have to reinstall your door to make it centered, but you have to trim it out correctly with a reveal the same on each side.


----------



## pindude80 (Oct 28, 2018)

ZEW496 said:


> Yes, there is a depth adjustment on a table saw. Glue is not absolutely necessary, but it is good practice, imo. I should have noted you should also glue the miters on your bricking molding during assembly. Brick molding is a fairly large piece of trim, you don't want it moving around too much during change of weather conditions, expansion and contraction. Movement can also possibly cause your caulk lines to develop cracks, allowing moisture to get in there. Good quality caulk is your friend, also. Glue helps to keep things tight and minimize that movement. Go for a stable monolithic end product.
> 
> Of course you can place blocks of the needed thickness to the framing just as the previous guy did. Cut a strip of wood to make a jamb extension, then attach that strip to the jamb. Then attach blocks of the needed thickness to the "brown board" framing. This would allow you to adjust if there is a difference in the thickness of how proud the framing is to the jamb from top to bottom. Personally, I would rather do it all with one notched 1 x board from top to bottom if possible.
> 
> ...


I'm not sure if it was installed perfectly centered or not; my friend installed it years ago but I can check it. I didn't really follow your explanation on checking it. Can I just measure the gap between the outside of the door frame and the block to see if it's the same on both sides?


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

Do this. On the right side, the brick side....Place a piece of brick molding onto the front edge of the jamb, and flush with the inside of the jamb. See any of the front edge of the jamb? No, it is completely covered by the brick molding. Now, slide that piece of brick molding over to where it butts flush against the brick. Boom! See any of the front edge of the jamb now? Yes! You've just _revealed_ some of the front edge of the jamb. That is your reveal. Measure it. Do as above to the other side. Place, slide, reveal, measure. Are those two measurements the same? If not your door is not installed centered in the _finished_ opening. To complete your install, which ever side has the smallest reveal, that is the max reveal for both sides if you want it to look correct. Reveal must be same/same on both sides. If that means you end up having a 1" gap between the brick and the brick molding on the right side, that's what you're stuck with. 1" gap is too much. It would have been best, for the sake of a clean install, for your door frame to be installed centered in the _finished_ opening. Brick on one side, that painted siding or whatever it is on the other. That's just a for instance, you may not have a 1" gap. Measure. Do those measurements and check back

Now, I suppose some might disagree. The door frame should be centered in the rough opening, they might say. But if having it installed centered in the rough opening fubars the completion of the install? Forget the block, you will not see the block once your trim is installed. You will see the jamb, the reveal, the brick molding, and whatever gap you need to caulk at the brick.

Another thing that has escaped mention thus far. If there is some sort of siding above the door, flashing should be tucked under the siding and over your top horizontal piece of brick molding to shed water. Depends on what's up there.


----------



## Timborooni (Apr 16, 2011)

I can already tell you a pretty good approximation of your reveal on the right side, 1". I suspect the other side is less, 5/8", maybe? Not to worry, we'll get you worked out.


----------

