# Painting baseboard tips/tricks



## mahjohn

When painting baseboards, I have painted the baseboard first.....taped it, then painted the wall, only to find that the tape does not stick well on the curved baseboard, and I get some bleed through of wall color onto the baseboard.

One idea I had was to do the same as I do the ceiling, which is to extend the white celing down onto the wall about 1/8" allowing me to get nice clean straight line. I think if I paint the wall first....then tape the wall, leaving a 1/8" gap between wall and baseboard, I can get nice straight line and the tape will stick better on the flat wall.

Any thoughts/tips ?


----------



## Jay123

What I normally do is:

1) Pick up the phone
2) Call the painter

Not much diy in that, is there? (I do pick up the phone myself though).

I HATE painting.

J


----------



## dcd22

I had the same issue and used to use ROLLS and ROLLS of tape. THen, I asked the question about using the right "tool's". I had to repaint everyroom in my house (HATE painitng) after scraping off all the pop corn. I did each of them with not 1 roll of tape used and the edges are crisp and clean.

I am sure you will get answer's saying what the right brushes are, take the advise and try it. Takes a little getting used to, but is worth it.


----------



## Allison1888

*paint baseboards*

I would paint the wall first and let it dry for at least 4 days. Then use the blue tape to tape the line above the baseboard. Go very slowly and make sure the line is even (tape will line up at the bottom). When painting the baseboards, do NOT start at the top after dipping your brush in the paint. That is when you have the most paint on there. Start in the middle and work your way to the top when there is only a little on the brush. (You get where I'm going, right?) Use an angled brush. Then, go slow..... Think of the tape as a guide not a sturdy barrier, because the paint will bleed through is you have too much on the brush or go too fast. Patience is a virtue -- tough, I know, but well worth the effort. When pulling tape off, pull from where it meets the wall, not from 6-12 inches above or you will tear off the wall paint. Take tape off as you go, but do it slowly.

Good luck!


----------



## kobrien

*trim painting trick*

This is for really anal-retentive people like me. I always HATED painting trim because I want it perfect and, let's face it, it wasn't happening...I have an unsteady hand and can't even imagine painting trim without tape, but neither blue tape, Frog Tape, nor the diligent application of my thumbnail to stick the tape down would prevent paint from bleeding under. Somewhere, I heard about this trick: 
Make sure the paint you're going to tape is well cured, first of all.
Tape off the surrounding area.
Using the same paint you used to paint the surrounding area (not the trim), paint a thin coat along the edge of the tape. This way, if any paint bleeds under the tape, it's the same color as as is under the tape anyway, so who cares?
Let that coat dry.
Now have at it. Paint your trim to your heart's content without worrying about the bleed-under. (Because you sealed off the edge earlier with the wall-color paint).
Remove the tape as soon as you dare, and you'll see a nice clean edge. Ooooh, aaaah.
Yeah, I'll admit it's more work...it takes the time to paint and dry that first coat. But for AR types like me, it's worth it.


----------



## Bootz

OOOO I got something ! :w00t:

I learned this doing the floor boards and trim work in my new office that I just painted. 
So we were having trouble Painting the floor boards and we used a drop cloth that we tucked under the board while painting it. Well.. we let it dry and then pulled the drop cloth out... it produced some really ragged edges that looked horrible. I even pulled one and it stripped it right down to the wood. Well.. I got the suggestion from a friend to use an edger and paint them using the edger then after painting it.. put it away and let it dry just like that. This way the paint does not dry to the drop cloth and produce the ragged edges. I am pretty sure some one said it but after painting and you got the necessary layers on pull the painters tape off while its drying. This will prevent the tape pulling any layers off with it :thumbsup:


----------



## hilton

Interesting thoughts on how to avoid having overlay of paint residue onto the walls. What I want to know is a basic interior paint by brush okay on the metal baseboard heaters or should I try a special Rustoleum brand-very little rust..they are just old, and there are baseboard heater covers throughout this 1850 sq. ft. home. Yes that's a lot of painting. Thanks in advance for any experiences/advice to share!


----------



## chrisn

And43ersonD said:


> This will prevent the tape pulling any layers off with it :thumbsup:


delete


----------



## user1007

Granted I painted for a living but my approach was to:

1. Caulk all the gaps between the baseboards and walls. 

2. Paint the trim

3. Cut the wall color to baseboard trim with a quality 2.5" angled sash brush.

I think you will find that with a little practice and a good brush you will eliminate your need for tape. It slowed me down. 

I guess if you feel you must use tapes. Paint and let the walls dry first. Then tape and paint the baseboards. It is hard to get tape positioned and to stick to the narrow edge of baseboard. Be prepared to go back and touch up wall paint that comes off with the tape or baseboard paint that seeps on you.


----------



## ArchieOval

sdsester said:


> Granted I painted for a living but my approach was to:
> 
> 1. Caulk all the gaps between the baseboards and walls.
> 
> 2. Paint the trim
> 
> 3. Cut the wall color to baseboard trim with a quality 2.5" angled sash brush.
> 
> I think you will find that with a little practice and a good brush you will eliminate your need for tape. It slowed me down.
> 
> I guess if you feel you must use tapes. Paint and let the walls dry first. Then tape and paint the baseboards. It is hard to get tape positioned and to stick to the narrow edge of baseboard. Be prepared to go back and touch up wall paint that comes off with the tape or baseboard paint that seeps on you.


I work as a painter and decorator in London and I get to do many kind of painting assignments. The above mentioned approach is very good, tho it takes some practise to get it right. 

_______________________________________
Archie, Painters and Decorators in London


----------



## h82diet

I just finished painting an 18 room building and I did exactly what you suggested except that I never use tape. I paint the walls first and roll to within 1/2" of the top of the molding. Then I use the cheapest chip brush (the $1 ones with the wooden handles and pale natural bristles- MY FAVORITE FOR 25 YEARS!) because they make a razor sharp edge and I cut into the top of the molding with the wall color. I use knee pads and make it super fast around the room. Then I use another chip brush to cover the molding. This works faster for me than taping and with a steady hand you can get a nice straight edge in the corner formed where the wall and the top of the molding meet. Of course, the best thing to do is paint the bottom molding the same color as the walls... it's often covered up by furniture. :thumbsup:


----------



## chrisn

h82diet said:


> I just finished painting an 18 room building and I did exactly what you suggested except that I never use tape. I paint the walls first and roll to within 1/2" of the top of the molding. Then I use the cheapest chip brush (the $1 ones with the wooden handles and pale natural bristles- MY FAVORITE FOR 25 YEARS!) because they make a razor sharp edge and I cut into the top of the molding with the wall color. I use knee pads and make it super fast around the room. Then I use another chip brush to cover the molding. This works faster for me than taping and with a steady hand you can get a nice straight edge in the corner formed where the wall and the top of the molding meet. Of course, the best thing to do is paint the bottom molding the same color as the walls... it's often covered up by furniture. :thumbsup:


 
Say WHAT:huh:


----------



## user1007

h82diet said:


> Then I use the cheapest chip brush (the $1 ones with the wooden handles and pale natural bristles- MY FAVORITE FOR 25 YEARS!) because they make a razor sharp edge and I cut into the top of the molding with the wall color. I use knee pads and make it super fast around the room. Then I use another chip brush to cover the molding.


This has to be a sick joke? Else the Brits on the other side of the pond must like the bristles-in-the-finish look! The anatomy of those cheap things will not hold or flow paint! :laughing:

By the way, I just noticed this thread is three years old. It is an evergreen topic though.


----------



## gjjr2001

Like SD said caulking the gaps where the top of the baseboard meets the wall is a must and is the first step. 
Make sure you smooth it out with your finger as you go along to avoid any buildup. Also make sure you buy the highest quality paintbrushes and wash them out using a paintbrush comb (you can make one with a 6" scrap 3/4" x 3/4" block of wood driving in stainless nails to use as the combs spaced about 1/8th " apart. You will be surprised how long a qulaity paintbrush will last you if taken care of.


----------



## iminaquagmire

If you can't cut in with a brush (some baseboards have a very narrow profile that makes it difficult to cut the baseboard into the wall and kneeling on the floor hunched to cut the wall into the baseboard isn't any easier), tape your wall and paint the tape line with your wall color. After that dries, follow over that with your trim paint. The idea is that if the tape is going to bleed, its better for the wall color to bleed behind the tape and seal the edge. When you follow with your trim paint, the tape will have been sealed with your wall color and won't bleed your trim paint onto the wall.


----------



## boman47k

Some trim does have a very thin edge where it meets the wall. Take rubber cove for instance.

What I have done with this base cove is place tape on the rubber material and let it stick past the top of the base in the air if possible. I then took a 5-n-1 or mud knife and push the tape down to the intersection of the wall and base where it sticks. It does not have to be really straight. The excess tape on the wall is trimmed away with a *very sharp* utility knife. The knife blade rides on top of the base or where it meets the wall, hopefully giving you a straight edge. Painted with a *not too heavily loaded* brush until covered. Remove tape.

Something to try if you find tape necessary.


----------



## Kelby

kobrien said:


> *trim painting trick*
> 
> This is for really anal-retentive people like me. I always HATED painting trim because I want it perfect and, let's face it, it wasn't happening...I have an unsteady hand and can't even imagine painting trim without tape, but neither blue tape, Frog Tape, nor the diligent application of my thumbnail to stick the tape down would prevent paint from bleeding under. Somewhere, I heard about this trick:
> Make sure the paint you're going to tape is well cured, first of all.
> Tape off the surrounding area.
> Using the same paint you used to paint the surrounding area (not the trim), paint a thin coat along the edge of the tape. This way, if any paint bleeds under the tape, it's the same color as as is under the tape anyway, so who cares?
> Let that coat dry.
> Now have at it. Paint your trim to your heart's content without worrying about the bleed-under. (Because you sealed off the edge earlier with the wall-color paint).
> Remove the tape as soon as you dare, and you'll see a nice clean edge. Ooooh, aaaah.
> Yeah, I'll admit it's more work...it takes the time to paint and dry that first coat. But for AR types like me, it's worth it.


We've used this method in the past and while it does yield good results, it is very time consuming.

What I am doing now takes less time.

Paint two coats on the trim/baseboard and let don't worry about getting paint on the wall, in fact push some onto wall. After curing, tape over new paint to get preferred line. Then, use clear caulk to seal the edge of the tape. Wait for it to become dry to touch, then cut in wall paint. Remove tape after cutting in.


----------

