# SW Solo for cabinets?



## forcedreno2012 (Nov 9, 2012)

I have used pro classic on all the trim in the house and so far I have liked it other than the short open time. 

I am painting a vanity and tried a can of the SW Solo. It is laying down just like the pro classic but seems to have a longer open time. The SW dude said it actually dries harder than the pro classic and is really good for cabinets. 

I have 45 kitchen cabinet doors/drawers to paint. I am doing them by hand.

Has anyone used Solo? Any Issues? Or should I stick to the PC for the kitchen cabinets. 

Thanks


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Keep us posted. I've not tried Solo on cabinets. Most of the time I use PC with great results although you have to be careful of runs, and, as you stated, there's not much time for messing around. Although PC can be tricky to use, I like the final result of a glass-like finish.


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

Never used it but I prefer a waterborne enamel for doors and drawers, is that what the Solo is? If so, I would bet you'll be fine.


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## forcedreno2012 (Nov 9, 2012)

Its a water based 100% acrylic. 

Here are a couple of snaps of the back side of a door. 1st coat not dry yet.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Very nice. If it's easier to work with than PC, I'm sold!


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

I have used solo many times. I would not consider it cabinet grade, It does level nice and go decently hard. More of a trim paint than exterior. Also use it a lot in bathrooms as it mildew resistant and water proof. As far as cabinets go, from Sherwin Williams Multi Surface Acrylic would be my go to. Levels like an oil and goes insanely hard. As a bonus fully cured in 7 days instead of a 30. MSA is harder than ProClassic buy a large margin.


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## forcedreno2012 (Nov 9, 2012)

Alpha, They talked about the MSA at the store a little the other day. When you say harder are you talking harder finish or application is harder? How hard is it to use vs the Pro Classic? Am I going to have to give up my first born to buy this stuff?


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

How about SHER-WOOD Kem Aqua Plus White? Sold at SW as well.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

buy harder i mean the finish product is more durable. Kem aqua is nice but its a waterborne lacquer. Not for the DIY. Will be a real pain don't even think of it. The MSA is amazing and will work perfectly. Much harder more durable finish than Proclassic. 1 of the key benefits of MSA is that it retains 100 percent durability no matter the color. Say ProClassic for example, PC in white will be more durable and scuff resistant than PC is say a dark black or a bright red. The MSA does not matter what color you pick always as hard. Comes in 2 sheens. Eggshell and Gloss. Gloss will be to shiny for my taste i would use the eggshell. The eggshell is more of a satin. Ill post a pick of the MSA in red for you to see the finish product.


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## forcedreno2012 (Nov 9, 2012)

Alpha, thanks for sharing. The pics help. I will take a look at the MSA when I go back to SW.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Not a problem at all. Happy to help. Keep us posted on how every thing is going.


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

AlphaWolf said:


> buy harder i mean the finish product is more durable. Kem aqua is nice but its a waterborne lacquer. Not for the DIY. Will be a real pain don't even think of it. The MSA is amazing and will work perfectly. Much harder more durable finish than Proclassic. 1 of the key benefits of MSA is that it retains 100 percent durability no matter the color. Say ProClassic for example, PC in white will be more durable and scuff resistant than PC is say a dark black or a bright red. The MSA does not matter what color you pick always as hard. Comes in 2 sheens. Eggshell and Gloss. Gloss will be to shiny for my taste i would use the eggshell. The eggshell is more of a satin. Ill post a pick of the MSA in red for you to see the finish product.


I forgot that KEM Aqua Plus White is meant for spraying, I haven't heard of anyone trying to apply it otherwise.

MSA info sheets "imply" for use on iron, steel, aluminum, block and concrete but wood isn't mentioned at all.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

not recommended on bare wood. If your refinishing cabinets that are already clear coated your fine. Also if its new bare wood just prime it 1st.


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

AlphaWolf said:


> not recommended on bare wood. If your refinishing cabinets that are already clear coated your fine. Also if its new bare wood just prime it 1st.


You must be reading between the lines?

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/painting-contractors/products/catalog/pro-industrial-multisurface-acrylic/


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-30009:product-10001

asu can see fine for wood. Just because its not stated does not mean its not ok to use it. The link shows all surfaces it works with


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

AlphaWolf said:


> http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-30009:product-10001g
> 
> asu can see fine for wood. Just because its not stated does not mean its not ok to use it. The link shows all surfaces it works with


It just depends on which PDF one believes or from which address and I'd seriously question which PDF is correct before using it myself.

The sheens are different too! That's too odd to ignore.


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

the product is identical. Just the sheen is different. Once sheen vs another of same product will not make a difference. I have used it many times. The picks i posted was all done on primed wood. If the wood is bare make sure u prime it 1st.


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

AlphaWolf said:


> the product is identical. Just the sheen is different. Once sheen dvs another of same product will not make a difference. I have used it many times. The picks i posted was all done on primed wood. If the wood is bare make sure u prime it 1st.


Nope, they are different because both have an egg shell sheen but one is B66-560 Series and the other is B66-1560 Series. Just follow the links to the PDF's themselves which have a different number. I have no idea why but it is what it is!


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

they are the same product. Numbers just indicate what 1 is lower in VOC content. Its safe on wood lol. As i said before if its new wood prime it. If its already clear coated use a bonding primer than MSA


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## wptski (Sep 19, 2008)

AlphaWolf said:


> they are the same product. Numbers just indicate what 1 is lower in VOC content. Its safe on wood lol. As i said before if its new wood prime it. If its already clear coated use a bonding primer than MSA


One is lower in VOC content?? Like in one is different??

If you took the time to compare the two PDF's you'd see that there are differences in the tinting instructions, abrasion resistance and pencil hardness. Your link's PDF is dated 3/2013 and the other is dated 8/2015, maybe a changed product.


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