# Cedar or PT Fence Posts???



## DecksEtc (Feb 8, 2005)

Cedar will last longer than PT. If you're re-doing the whole fence in cedar you should really have the posts match.


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## C&D (Jan 24, 2006)

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure that cedar would hold up as well as PT in the ground.
Appreciate it!


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## bob the builder (Jan 17, 2006)

If you said Iron or aluminum posts Decks Etc. would have suggested cedar posts .

there are many companys that do cedar fences with green posts in my location. The reason is because cedar will rot quicker if set in concrete. IMO so will pressure treated.

For the question you asked nobody can answer because the treating process for pressure treated lumber is new. If you want the cedar post to last longer apply a preservative to the end in contact with the ground. Good drainage around the post is the key to a longer lasting post. Installing gravel under the post will help...

Bob


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## DecksEtc (Feb 8, 2005)

You know me too well bob. I am biased towards cedar - I can't help it :cheesygri

I just think that using PT posts with the cedar looks bad but it is personal taste.

C&D, bob is right about the gravel at the bottom - you should have gravel at the bottom regardless if it is PT or cedar. Staining the cedar posts that goes into the cement is a necessity as well. $50 for a gallon of stain goes a long way to making your fence last a LOT longer.

As for materials, long ago I used to think that spending money on cedar instead of PT for a fence was a waste of money - because it was "just a fence". I say "used to" because once I had first built my first cedar fence, I resigned myself to never have a PT fence on my own home. The cedar looks so much nicer plus you can do more with it - like custom lattice work, etc.


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## ron schenker (Jan 15, 2006)

Decks etc...is cedar as strong as P.T.
Do you use any precautions when working with P.T.


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## DecksEtc (Feb 8, 2005)

Cedar isn't as strong structurally. For example, I did a porch last year where the client didn't want any PT used. I had to boost the joists up to 2x10's. As far as a fence goes, the cedar may not necessarily be stronger than PT but it will outlast it and look nicer to boot.

Precautions for PT? Do you mean when cutting it? I don't wear a mask (even though I probably should) because any mask I wear makes my glasses fog up. Seeing is a tad more important to me.


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## ron schenker (Jan 15, 2006)

Ya, I meant cutting it and also just handling it. I've been oozed before with that green stuff when I grabbed it and needless to say, I wouldn't pick my nose, scratch my eye, or suck my thumb till after washing my hands...lol
BTW...have you considered contacts or lazer eye surgery? I can't imagine how great it would be to not need eyeglasses on the job!


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## DecksEtc (Feb 8, 2005)

I used to wear contacts for hockey (glasses won't fit under a goalie mask) but they're no good for work - too much sawdust, etc.

I've contemplated laser eye surgery, just haven't gotten up the nerve yet...


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## bob the builder (Jan 17, 2006)

DecksEtc said:


> You know me too well bob. I am biased towards cedar - I can't help it :cheesygri
> 
> I just think that using PT posts with the cedar looks bad but it is personal taste.
> 
> ...


I think that a cedar fence with a clear coat and pressure treated post looks very silly, but people buy into the hog wash...

Bob


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## Teetorbilt (Feb 7, 2004)

They both last about the same here. We won't know about the new PT for a while.


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## fenceguru1 (Mar 27, 2008)

*help with choosing fences*

Here is some information that might help you choose:

*So, What Kind of Fence is Best for You?*
Attractive, sturdy fencing is now available in a broad range of materials. While having a choice is great, “choosing” sometimes poses a dilemma for those looking to add new fencing to their properties. Fence Authority is here to help make this process a little easier! 
Of course, the main things to consider are how you want it to look and how much maintenance you can handle or are willing to undertake. Additionally, the climate where you live will determine how much wear and tear your fence will undergo. Popular materials are:
*• Custom Wood Fences: Cedar*
Wood fence constructed of Eastern White Cedar have been a classic choice for decades.. This is the same Cedar used for roofs and siding for the classic homes along the New England coastline. Eastern White Cedar; it’s warm, it’s traditional, it’s natural and it’s maintenance free!
*• PVC - Vinyl Fences:*
Vinyl fencing is a great choice if you are looking for durable, extremely low maintenance fencing. The quality of vinyl fencing is so excellent these days that you can hardly tell they are made of vinyl now. Color choices are a bit more limited, mainly ranging from white and beige, but vinyl fencing never needs to be painted. There is also no worrying about termites, rotting or warping, allowing you to enjoy beautiful fencing year and year.
*• Aluminum Fences:*
Old-fashioned wrought iron looks stunning, but it is extremely high maintenance, requiring regular repainting and touch ups. Aluminum has proved to be an excellent replacement, being less expensive and since it is less prone to oxidation, is far more durable while requiring a low level of maintenance. Additionally, aluminum can replicate the intricate look of wrought iron, but since aluminum can be extruded hollow, it is lighter and less cumbersome than wrought iron. 

I found this on LINK REMOVED

this helped me pick my fence! I chose PVC just cos it needed less upkeep.


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

If using cedar pickets, I can see why you would want to use cedar posts. Keep in mind cedar will gray over time. To preserve the cedar posts, just make sure you have some crushed stone at the bottom of the post hole for drainage. You might also consider coating the in-ground portion with a wood perservative and maybe even wrapping the post in felt paper or ice/water barrier used in roofing.


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

DecksEtc said:


> You know me too well bob. I am biased towards cedar - I can't help it :cheesygri
> 
> I just think that using PT posts with the cedar looks bad but it is personal taste.
> 
> C&D, bob is right about the gravel at the bottom - you should have gravel at the bottom regardless if it is PT or cedar. Staining the cedar posts that goes into the cement is a necessity as well. $50 for a gallon of stain goes a long way to making your fence last a LOT longer..


Don't just use gravel at the bottom, backfill the entire hole with pea gravel. The more drainage, the less rot!


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

And don't use concrete. Go deeper and pack the fill better if worried about stability.


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## Maniac (Apr 9, 2008)

Hi guys!

I wanted to pop into this thread as I'm actually planning to do a similar job and wanted to get some feedback about the post installs as well.

I plan to build my own cedar fence panels and I also wanted to use cedar 4x4's for the posts. I have been doing some reading at various places on the web and some people have commented that cedar 4x4's have only lasted 5 years. Obviously, the work to build a fence I really don't want to be re-doing this in 5 years time so I was hoping to get some "to the point" details about installing the cedar posts properly so that they will last as long as possible.

I found a post plan on the web and it was not specific to cedar but the way it was done was as such:
Base of the hole and bottom 24" of the hole was filled with pea gravel
Roughly 8 to 10" of concrete was used for a plug 
Top of the hole was back filled with dirt, top 2-4"

I live in Canada and we have nasty cold winters to blistering hot summers so whatever advice I can get for the post installs would be really appreciated. I plan to buy 10' 4x4's so I will be getting at least 3' of post into the ground.

You guys have talked about treating the portion of the post in the ground. Are you just using any stain or is there a special treating that can be used. Should I use concrete or not at all? I had kind of figured the concrete plug idea was one of the better ways to go but maybe not?

Thanks!


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