# 2013+ - Basement Remodel



## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

*Before - part 1*


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

*Before - part 2*


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

*After as of 5/23/2013*

We are waiting for the WM Bagster's to be delivered to put all the debris in there.


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## Amateuralex (Mar 17, 2012)

Great pics, hugely promising space down there, that will rock when you're done.


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

I do have one question...what's the best way to remove the framing (and do I just cut the 2x4s or clip the electrical wiring and pull it back through the holes) without having electrical wires hanging everywhere? I have a dog that I wouldn't want playing with them.


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## quackaddict (Jan 23, 2013)

Kill power, snip wires, demo walls....


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## cdnNick (May 28, 2011)

Just curious why you want to remove all the copper lines? I'd love to have copper instead of the poly-b (before PEX).


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

cdnNick said:


> Just curious why you want to remove all the copper lines? I'd love to have copper instead of the poly-b (before PEX).


My current reasoning for replacing all the copper plumbing lines is because it is all original from when the house was built in 1980 and it is started to shows it's age along with the fact that when it was ran through the house it was done poorly and half ass.

I see this as the chance to update it and do it right and replacing copper with copper is expensive compared to PEX or CPVC.


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

May 27, 2013

Made some progress on removing the old framing in the basement...took down 4 walls with only two left. The reason those are still up is because I need to remove two hanging lights and the plumbing is in one as well. Pictures will be posted tomorrow once the girlfriend uploads them. While working I thought about a few things...

1. Why is laminate flooring not good for a below-grade daylight basement?
2. Is it best practice to always do a Calcium Chloride test before deciding on/laying flooring? Or would it just be possible to not do the test and just install a vapor barrier (like this)?
3. What's the best way to see if the floor is level?


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## Amateuralex (Mar 17, 2012)

Geran Brown said:


> May 27, 2013
> 
> Made some progress on removing the old framing in the basement...took down 4 walls with only two left. The reason those are still up is because I need to remove two hanging lights and the plumbing is in one as well. Pictures will be posted tomorrow once the girlfriend uploads them. While working I thought about a few things...
> 
> 1. Why is laminate flooring not good for a below-grade daylight basement?


Technically it's just fine. Actual hardwood and most engineered wood aren't for below-grade. For laminate, you gotta have the correct underlayment. And if the area ever floods or takes significant water, it will probably ruin the laminate.



> 2. Is it best practice to always do a Calcium Chloride test before deciding on/laying flooring? Or would it just be possible to not do the test and just install a vapor barrier (like this)?


Never heard about this one.



> 3. What's the best way to see if the floor is level?


Get a long level and crawl around on the floor and check a bazillion spots.


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

Amateuralex said:


> Technically it's just fine. Actual hardwood and most engineered wood aren't for below-grade. For laminate, you gotta have the correct underlayment. And if the area ever floods or takes significant water, it will probably ruin the laminate.


Interesting, on here many people say never to put laminate in the basement and to either use tile or engineered hardwood. I can understand this if you have severe moisture issues but so far I've done many precautions to "manage" the water within the foundation walls (interior drainage system). Haven't seen any water since but it is still fairly humid down there after a good rain (currently no insulation or walls). I think once I put up insulation than I shouldn't have an issue with the humidity in the basement going above 60%.



Amateuralex said:


> Never heard about this one.


Thanks, maybe someone else will be able to help with it.



Amateuralex said:


> Get a long level and crawl around on the floor and check a bazillion spots.


All right, sounds tedious but also the most reliable way.

Progress as of 5/27/2013 


mayAfter1, on Flickr

mayAfter2, on Flickr

mayAfter3, on Flickr


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## Amateuralex (Mar 17, 2012)

Geran Brown said:


> Interesting, on here many people say never to put laminate in the basement and to either use tile or engineered hardwood. I can understand this if you have severe moisture issues but so far I've done many precautions to "manage" the water within the foundation walls (interior drainage system). Haven't seen any water since but it is still fairly humid down there after a good rain (currently no insulation or walls). I think once I put up insulation than I shouldn't have an issue with the humidity in the basement going above 60%.


I just double-checked myself by looking around online and all of the laminate flooring I can find says 'suitable for below or above grade on cement, etc'.

Laminate is very unpopular on this forum, maybe that has something to do with it. :wink:

Also it probably does take more dmg when soaked than engineered wood.

Or also, possible likely, as an amateur I am missing an important consideration.



> All right, sounds tedious but also the most reliable way.


Yup, I did it myself. Tedious, not too bad.


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

Amateuralex said:


> I just double-checked myself by looking around online and all of the laminate flooring I can find says 'suitable for below or above grade on cement, etc'.
> 
> Laminate is very unpopular on this forum, maybe that has something to do with it. :wink:
> 
> ...


Thanks Lex. I guess the place I was looking at purchasing my flooring from doesn't really list if it is suitable for below or above grade on cement so it looks like I'm sticking with engineered wood flooring for now.

I've been doing a lot of reading on Building Science's website about basements with some good success. Unfortunately during my reading I saw that my plan for insulating my basement wasn't the best method or most cost effective (which is HUGE to me).

Based on my reading it seems like the two options below are the best for basements (my basement has an interior water management system installed and I don't see any moisture leaks but it is really humid with no walls up):


> High-R Foundation 08: 2" XPS, Roxul ComfortBatt and .5" paperless drywall w/ VR paint
> High-R Foundation 10: 2.5" gap between the foundation wall & studs, 6" open cell spray foam (would 2" closed cell spray be equivalent?), .5" paperless drywall w/ VR paint


Just curious if these are the two best ways?


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## Geran Brown (May 23, 2013)

*Update as of 6/25/2013*

As of today, I haven't done much as I am trying to finalize my design for the basement (see links below).

Any recommendations?

Basement Option 1
Basement Option 2
Basement Updates


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## ccleme11 (Mar 20, 2013)

what program did you use to draw the designs?


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Looks like a nice project.


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