# Repainting Basement Walls



## dnt (Jan 13, 2011)

I am planning to repaint the concrete block walls in the laundary room in my basement. The walls were previously painted by the former owner. There is no evidence of any water damage or past water problems. A very small area of the paint flaked off near some water pipes. I beleive this was do to either a previous leak in the dishwasher (which is above the laundary room), or a previous drip/leak in the water pipe.

The basement is humid/damp in the summer, but I run a dehumidifier to mitigate the dampness.

I really just want to know the best/easiest/most efficienct way to repaint the walls a different color. What type of paint should I use? Do I need to remove the old paint? Are there any sealers/sealants I should put on the walls?

My biggest concern is just to prevent any potential mold/mildew growth. My second biggest concern is to make sure it is mildly pleasant to look at.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

* First you have to clean the flaking paint and then I would use Drylok and apply at least two coats. It can be recoated with latex paint if you want to add color.*


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## dnt (Jan 13, 2011)

Doesn't Drylok only work on unpainted surfaces? I have never used it, just basing on what I have read in other threads.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Yes and no. it will stick to the existing paint, but it won’t be able to get into the pores of the block and make it waterproof. In order to do that you would have to remove the old paint and then re-apply the drylok


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## dnt (Jan 13, 2011)

epson said:


> Yes and no. it will stick to the existing paint, but it won’t be able to get into the pores of the block and make it waterproof. In order to do that you would have to remove the old paint and then re-apply the drylok


So if I am not removing the old paint, Drylok doesn't seem to be a very good fit for my situation.
1. I do not have a water leakage problem.
2. My surface is already painted.

The current paint is not in poor condition, just a few minow chipps/flakes, and removing it would be quite difficult. Removing the paint would seem to be almost a waste of time and money.

Any other suggestions?


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Then just clean up the loose paint that you have, prime the spots and then repaint your wall whatever color you want. I would still use oil base paint if you don’t know what paint you have on your wall already.


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## dnt (Jan 13, 2011)

Why would you recommend the oil based paint?


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Ok here is a tip. You already have flaking paint right? Take a peace and light it with a lighter and see what it smells like. If its oil base it will smell like oil, if not then it is water base. That way you can be sure on what paint to put over your existing paint.


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## dnt (Jan 13, 2011)

So if it is oil, use an oil based paint.
If it is not oil, use a water based paint. Correct?

Is there any particular type or brand of paint you would recommend? Any you would steer clear of?

Should I make sure to find a paint that is mold/mildew resistant, I am guessing someone makes such a product?


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

I would use Sherwin Williams Shercret. It is a flexible ,, breathable, acrylic wtaerproofer that bridges hairline cracks and comes in any color. Its for interior and exterior masonry surfaces. Shercrete applies just like paint and looks like paint when its dried. You would not want to use an oil base, as oil base products are not breathable and are more prone to attracting mold. You can read about shercrete at our sit under our concrete coatings section. www.kelloggspainting.com. We use it on a variety of masonry surfaces including basements and concrete pool decks


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## dnt (Jan 13, 2011)

Is it ok/recommended to use Shercret on a surface that has already been painted?


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

dnt said:


> Is it ok/recommended to use Shercret on a surface that has already been painted?[/QUOTE
> 
> You can apply it to a painted or non painted masonry surface without primining.


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## mazzonetv (Feb 25, 2009)

:thumbup:


housepaintingny said:


> I would use Sherwin Williams Shercret. It is a flexible ,, breathable, acrylic wtaerproofer that bridges hairline cracks and comes in any color. Its for interior and exterior masonry surfaces. Shercrete applies just like paint and looks like paint when its dried. You would not want to use an oil base, as oil base products are not breathable and are more prone to attracting mold. You can read about shercrete at our sit under our concrete coatings section. www.kelloggspainting.com. We use it on a variety of masonry surfaces including basements and concrete pool decks


 
epson - I sincerely don't mean to offend you - but maybe you could try to be more careful in your suggestions. A lof of what you post is plain wrong. The OP would have had a poor job if he used oil and would have most likely been dealing with lots of peeling paint in the near future.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

mazzonetv said:


> :thumbup:
> 
> 
> epson - I sincerely don't mean to offend you - but maybe you could try to be more careful in your suggestions. A lot of what you post is plain wrong. The OP would have had a poor job if he used oil and would have most likely been dealing with lots of peeling paint in the near future.


Oil base is prone to mildew and mold. Oil base is not brethable or flexable like a waterbase.


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## mazzonetv (Feb 25, 2009)

my apologies for misunderstanding my last post Housepaintingny - if you read again I think you'll see that I was agreeing with your post and focusing my other comment towards the other member that replied.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

mazzonetv said:


> my apologies for misunderstanding my last post Housepaintingny - if you read again I think you'll see that I was agreeing with your post and focusing my other comment towards the other member that replied.


sorry, i miss read it and didnt see that it was ment for epson..


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