# Plywood Plank Flooring-EXTREMELY AFFORDABLE but...



## bml.4517 (Sep 24, 2012)

1/4" 4x8 pine plywood sheets stripped into "choose your width" planks. Sand rough spots, determine lay-down pattern, liquid nail them down, add nails if needed for looks or for tacking, and apply pennies for spacers between planks. Stain and apply polyurethane.

This is the common method I have been researching. Its super affordable and looks identical to fancy and expensive brand hardwood planks. 

Has anyone actually used this? 
Any concerns to be addressed?
Pros vs Cons?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

I totally like the idea! If I did it though, I'd probably spring for the oak or other hardwood veneer one side plywood.  Wouldn't crap build up in the cracks left by the pennies though?

DM


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

And what do you do once the paper thin venner wears through?
How do you plan on cutting these in strips perfectly so there's no gaps?
What do you filling in all the gaps with that will not show when you stain it?

If I had to do It I would not use constrution adhesive, the thin wood would follow the humps. I'd follow the directions on laying glued down engineered flooring instead.
http://montagefloors.com/Installation.php

I sound down on this idea because I fell for it one time and go scre*ed.
Customer insisted that's what they wanted. They had seen it on one of those silly get rich turning houses shows.
A year later of living with kids and a big dog the floor was trashed with no way to refinish it due to the thin top layer.


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## bml.4517 (Sep 24, 2012)

DangerMouse said:


> I totally like the idea! If I did it though, I'd probably spring for the oak or other hardwood veneer one side plywood.  Wouldn't crap build up in the cracks left by the pennies though?
> 
> DM


Oak is an excellent choice I agree. Somebody had mentioned hemlock in one thread. Not sure if it was the glue or something else. Come to think about it nobody has ever included that info...awesome question that I will be researching tomorrow mouse.


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## bml.4517 (Sep 24, 2012)

joecaption said:


> And what do you do once the paper thin venner wears through?
> How do you plan on cutting these in strips perfectly so there's no gaps?
> What do you filling in all the gaps with that will not show when you stain it?
> 
> ...


this is why i posted this...to see if anybody has tried it and how the long term use is going. A table saw will strip the wood into even planks so thats not a main concern and to be honest there hasnt been a box of hardwood that has had every single plank perfect but the length of use definately is a question and concern. I think with a good polyurethane it will help protect the top from alot of everyday wear. Awesome input


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Pine would be way to soft, even a high heel could dent it.
The differents in plywood strips and real hard wood is the grain when trying to bend it.
Plywood does not like to twist that way.


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## Awoodfloorguy (Jul 6, 2012)

Not familiar with it, but would be very interested in seeing pictures if you go through with it.


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## bml.4517 (Sep 24, 2012)

joecaption said:


> Pine would be way to soft, even a high heel could dent it.
> The differents in plywood strips and real hard wood is the grain when trying to bend it.
> Plywood does not like to twist that way.


I have only installed laminate, vinyl, carpet, and oak hardwood flooring and only in log homes. I am intent on learning useful and productive shortcuts as well as budget friendly applications. Not everyone can afford the real deal and many people are looking for new ways to do things.

I haven't seen this application of flooring first hand and I think all concerns and/or experience should be discussed.


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## bml.4517 (Sep 24, 2012)

Awoodfloorguy said:


> Not familiar with it, but would be very interested in seeing pictures if you go through with it.


I will be removing some 1970s carpet next month in a home. This technique will be applied. I will be taking progress pictures when the plan becomes a workable project and will keep the forum posted. Im interested to see how it turn out myself because it could save alot of ppl some $$...if the end product holds up, looks adequate, and is easy to install. Thanks floorguy


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## jimmy21 (Jul 2, 2008)

It would probably work alright if it was in a low traffic area where it won't be damaged. As mentioned it would probably look great but wouldn't be able to be refinished


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## bml.4517 (Sep 24, 2012)

In the end...will this type of flooring be budget friendly, easy to install and will it hold up, lets say, in comparison to laminate flooring?


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

In a word, yes. Remember though that the top coating factories apply is aluminium oxide which is quite hard. Poly will hold well, but is not quite as hard.
Strange..... isn't "engineered" or "laminated" flooring crappy wood with VENEER on top? Obviously, this product cannot be sanded more than a fraction to be refinished, and neither could what you propose with VENEER plywood. However, in homes for _mature adults_, I see no reason why it would not work out just fine and last a good long time, provided you apply numerous coats of finish to protect it. I'd also suggest area rugs in high traffic areas.

DM


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## zakany (Sep 24, 2012)

DangerMouse said:


> ... isn't "engineered" or "laminated" flooring crappy wood with VENEER on top?


Not the stuff you'd really want in your home, no.

Good quality engineered flooring usually has a poplar or birch base of five or six plys, topped with a hardwood wear layer of at least 2mm (I prefer a 4mm wear layer).

Plywood is, also, rotary cut and _looks _like plywood.

Even cabinet-grade plywood doesn't have 2mm of veneer, because it's not built to be walked on.


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## patented (Aug 1, 2012)

Someone needs to make a test floor of this stuff and post some pics!


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## notmrjohn (Aug 20, 2012)

What is the point of the penny, or any gap? It's plywood glued down, where's the expansion/shrinking coming from? 

BTW This is not a new idea, fake plywood planks have been around longer than I have. As has plywood with sawn face veneer already in "planks." Savings in labor make up for cost of material.

But I have done two and a half of these floors for local designer, known for off the wall, or floor ideas and is willing to bear costs of failures.(T&G cabinet doors which he had coated with hide glue then painted to get crackled, peeling paint authentic old barn look. Any body need 50' of concave doors? A light house, maybe with cabinets all along walls?) 

So any way, nobody was pleased with floors. 1st floor he didn't like look of quickly sanded edge joints. Next floor planks went thru jointer, they were too smooth and tight. He wanted an older look, random size joint look but not open joints. So a few planks went through shaper, real T&G, he was *sure* that's what he wanted. A few planks into shaping, we convinced him labor costs were crazy, and 1st two clients didn't really like floors N e way. Went to salvage yard bought a truck load of used oak T&G. That was the half floor.

The complaints of clients were it didn't look, feel, or even sound right. Turned out the floors weren't very durable, the veneer *is* thin, and the underlying plys are soft. Surface oak would scratch, showing sub-ply, dent, even break leaving hole and upturned splinters. sorry no pics, he takes pics of everything, but he pro'lly didn't keep these.

Quality "engineered" floors have thicker, hardened face veneer, harder substrate. As zak zed.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

DangerMouse said:


> In a word, yes. Remember though that the top coating factories apply is aluminium oxide which is quite hard. Poly will hold well, but is not quite as hard.
> Strange..... isn't "engineered" or "laminated" flooring crappy wood with VENEER on top? Obviously, this product cannot be sanded more than a fraction to be refinished, and neither could what you propose with VENEER plywood. However, in homes for _mature adults_, I see no reason why it would not work out just fine and last a good long time, provided you apply numerous coats of finish to protect it. I'd also suggest area rugs in high traffic areas.
> 
> DM


No engineered wood is not crappy it is a very good ply with no voids and yes it can be sanded and refinished. The diff in it and regular hardwood is the engineered can only be refinished twice unless your very lucky then you may get 3 times, where regular hardwood can be finished several times. On veneered plywood the veneer is only about 1/32nd thick. I don' think I would like the look or the durability, but hey I've been wrong before. Really am curious how it turns out though.


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## lakemuckadowa (May 2, 2013)

*Plywood Plank Flooring works great!*

I say 'go for it'. My husband and I just completed our bedroom with plywood planks and I'd do it all over again. It looks and feels great! We had the same carpeting in our condo bedroom for the past 15 years and wanted a new look. We didn't want to do carpeting again so heard about this idea and found it to be quite economical and easy to do. I purchased the lowest grade plywood (3/8" thickness) at home depot and the guys there were friendly enough to cut it for me - no charge. I had each board cut in 6" plank widths and hauled it home in a uhaul van. I left it stacked for a week or so inside (just procrastination) and then laid it out in the bedroom to gauge which piece I wanted in different locations (ie; grain, knots, etc.) I made random cuts with a chop saw, laying it out to ensure that each piece would fit. I left a small space between the boards for a consistent plank appearance (I eye-balled it) and then when all of the pieces were in place, I picked each one up individually, zig-zagged liquid nails on the back and slapped it back into place. Tacked a couple of finishing nails in on each end and anywhere else I thought needed additional tacking and it is sturdy, hard and we love it. We decided to go with a Swedish pickled look so used a paint/water wash and then covered it in a water-based Varathane with a satin finish. We love it and would do it again. The rest of our place has Pergo flooring, which we like as well but the cost of doing it ourselves with plywood vs. the Pergo (which was professionally installed) was well worth the effort. I'm actually having visions of doing an old farmhouse in this same style or a cottage floor, etc. Try it - if you're looking for a stylish, economical substitution for high-priced flooring, you won't regret it.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Looks good now......wait a few months.....those edges are not going to wear well....something will catch it...peel it up.....

Don't even want to think about splinters....

Sorry....but I just don't see it as a viable long term floor...


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## Troy32 (Dec 8, 2012)

The biggest problem I see is that with liquid nails you will never be able to get the plywood off if you decided to go in another direction.


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