# Water line to fridge, actually -in- 'subflooring', not under??



## Anonyone (Oct 13, 2010)

I have a small galley kitchen in my condo... sink/dishwasher water supply on one side, new refrigerator/icemaker on the other side. No convenient water supply on the fridge wall. No access to floor from below (without tearing out lower unit's ceiling).

Because of water damage/swelling at old dishwasher, I am (finally) having new laminate floor installed... removed old parquet(?) flooring... what's left is water damaged (originally 5/8") particle board over (guesstimating) 3/8" plywood with some kind of paper 'barrier' in between the two. I am removing all the particle board (small kitchen), and replacing with 5/8" plywood (which then still sits on top the lower, thinner plywood). On top of that 5/8" plywood, I intend to put 'insulayment' soundproofing underlayment, followed by backerboard... then the flooring installer can put in the new laminate flooring on top of that. (I do have the clearance at thresholds for all that height.)

If I can describe this properly... I'm wondering (if the following idea be similar to 'radiant heat' piping without the heat )... with a new refrigerator/icemaker, and no convenient water supply... can I run a supply line across the subfloor in a channel in the new 5/8" plywood? I have a 15 foot 1/4" braided steel supply line! 

Second, if necessary, I was thinking I could snake the braided steel line through a straight 5/8" copper pipe... like a casing ...the copper pipe (o.d. 3/4") would then lay in the channel in the 5/8" plywood, covered over by underlayment and backerboard (and finally, the laminate flooring installation). 5/8" is recommended size diameter hole through which to pass this braided steel line... braided steel connectors are 1/2" in outside diameter. I could maybe put ells on the ends of the copper ... and run the copper/braided steel up into the sink cabinet on one side, and another ell on the other end to come up out of floor (or actually in wall) on the other side, then over just a couple or so feet to (a utility box behind) the fridge. Would that be 'ok'/'better'? 

Or just use 1/4" copper line in the 'channel'? Uhm, no?... I don't really want to try 'snaking' a line all around the kitchen behind cabinets, floor casings, an electric range, etc.

If all that's just totally not acceptable, then I guess I remove the icemaker from the refrigerator... because I don't really want to cut away the floor completely and drill the condominium's joists, etc... which I suppose is the 'right' way to do it?

-Anon

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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Not conventional but I do not see a problem. do not use the braided flex- use soft copper or 3/8" PEX. Since you are putting down laminate, no worry of nails. Before you lay the laminate, mark the route with red paint so that a future owner does not take up the laminate and nail down wood flooring or backer board for tile.


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## Anonyone (Oct 13, 2010)

rjniles said:


> ... do not use the braided flex- use soft copper or 3/8" PEX. Since you are putting down laminate, no worry of nails. Before you lay the laminate, mark the route with red paint so that a future owner does not take up the laminate and nail down wood flooring or backer board for tile.


Thanks for the support/ideas, but I'm wondering why you recommend against the braided steel line? I was thinking it would be that much 'stronger' than soft copper... and 'strength' was also why I suggested a possible copper 'casing' pipe... I was worried about future acts (like nailing, cutting, dropping a refrigerator ). That's a good idea - marking with red paint... also it occurs to me that I could post a label at the water connections (each end) about where the line runs.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

The flex SS line is not stronger than soft copper or PEX. It is a basially the same material as a rubber washing machine hose covered with the SS braid. They break down over time especially in the presence of items with chlorine in them - like kitchen cleansers.

Labeling both ends:thumbsup:


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

rjniles said:


> The flex SS line is not stronger than soft copper or PEX. It is a basially the same material as a rubber washing machine hose covered with the SS braid. They break down over time especially in the presence of items with chlorine in them - like kitchen cleansers.
> 
> Labeling both ends:thumbsup:


I agree 1/4 " copper no joints under floor. Make sure copper is K or L type don't use M.


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## Anonyone (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks... I have 15 feet of K type 1/4"...

...to put through a (now) 1/2" copper pipe for a 'casing', protecting the 7.5ft of 1/4" actually in the floor, on a seam between two sheets of plywood... sometime this coming week.


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