# Door casing and uneven drywall



## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Small bulges can be hammered down an flattened with a 2X4 and a hammer. Even gaps are filled by adding to the frame (extending). Areas protruding are planned flush with the drywall.


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## jpsmith (Jan 29, 2009)

If the jamb is wood and sits proud of the drywall, you can use a hand plane to angle it back so that it meets the drywall flush. Be careful that you only plane away the part that will be covered by the casing; don't plan away what will ultimately be exposed.

If the drywall is proud of the jamb, you can do the same thing, only use a utility or putty knife to ease away the drywall so the transition between the drywall and the jamb is smooth. 

The casing will have some flex to it, so once it's nailed in place you'll never notice the imperfections if they're really less than 1/8" at any given spot.


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## Chemist1961 (Dec 13, 2008)

I would want the casing and wall to be plumb. I might try drywall filler if the wall was way out but a fine bead of silicone in the corner where the two meet would be an option as well


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## rredogg (Dec 27, 2005)

Bubba,

Some would say take a hammer to the drywall to flatten out the humps and bumps but when it's your house your reluctant to do so. The following is what I've done with sucess:

You'll need a Stanley SURFORM (looks like a hand grader for cheese) that is used for drywall. First take the casing you are going to attach to the jambs. Place them one by one about where your going to attach it to the jambs and make a pencil mark along where they will be sitting on the drywall. Put some of that blue painters tape on the exposed jambs with now with the SURFORM knock down those humps and bumps inbetween the jamb and the pencil marks you applied. Continue checking for a good fit by taking those trim boards and placing them on the jambs and drywall. I'd also suggest putting a couple of dropcloths on the floor as you will be kicking up some drywall dust.

My two cents, rredogg


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## II Weeks (Jan 6, 2009)

1/8" inch or less? Beat it with a block and apply the trim. After its nailed up, use latex caulk around the perimeter and no one will know the difference


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## Bubbagump (Apr 10, 2008)

I will try the hammer and block deal. I am good with dry wall should I need to patch it and don't have any qualms about having to do some paint touch up. The dry wall is proud of the jamb. Everywhere else it is proud by maybe a 1/16 of an inch and caulk for hiding and the nailer have pulled the trim to look tight, but this is a bit too much to get away with here. I think it is just mud build up in the corners of the door way cut out. if the block fails, I will go ahead and do the rasp idea


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

For the "minor adjustment" you need I say just beat it into submission......


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