# Slight jog needed in wall - what to do?



## chrispy35 (Nov 4, 2009)

Let's see if I can explain the situation first...

I took out my old non-standard-sized tub and got a new one that was slightly longer (60"). The old alcove wall at the end of the tub was brought out a bit to meet up with the end of the tub by interleaving the 2x4s. I've taken out the old 2x4s and put in new ones that put the alcove wall at the correct location. In the first photo, you can see the outline of the old wall on the floor.

My problem is that the new wall is only a little over 1/2" from the back ball. Previously, when it stuck out further, there was about 2" of drywall on the 'jog' in the wall. Now, the jog will only be about as thick as a single sheet. How does this get finished?

Also, it's apparent to me know that the old wall is slightly bowed and the new studs I put in are not (or much less bowed). See the last two pictures for the difference at the middle of the stud compared to the bottom. Any ideas for handling this type of situation?

Thx,

Chris P.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Why didn't you use 2x3's to make the walls line up ?


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## chrispy35 (Nov 4, 2009)

Hi Scuba,

I'm not sure I understand what you're suggesting...

2x3s instead of the 2x4s?? The 2x4s are offset from the other 2x4's in the wall so that the tub alcove is the correct size (you can see the old outline of the offset on the floor in the 1st picture). I can't move the wall back so that it's flush with the green drywall in the picture as then the tub flange will not meet up with the alcove wall. 

Chris P.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Consider pulling the trim off the door and overlaying dry wall over the rest of that wall.

Add 1/2 inch jamb extenders to the door.--Mike--


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## chrispy35 (Nov 4, 2009)

What about something like this (J-bead) to finish the edge of the board and then caulk to seal between the new backer board and the old drywall? I can easily tile right to the edge of the backer board.

Regarding the jamb extender and a new layer of drywall over the entire wall, that seems like a good idea for certain cases but one side of our built-in vanity is on the other side of that wall so a new layer is not an option.

Thx,

Chris P.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Shucks--That overlay would have been easy,Oh,well.

Will your tile come to that edge? There are a number of aluminum tile edge profiles that might work.

If you are stuck with a jog look in the drywall corner bead section at the store. There is a paper on a roll that has a pair of plastic or metal strips.

Sorry I don't recall the brand--If the strips are 1/2 inch you could bend the paper into a -Z-
and end up with a nice square edge, 

I hate the little patch jobs like this--Maybe someone else has a good solution,
I'd rather see the transition edged with a 1/4 round but I'm sure the seam would open.


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## chrispy35 (Nov 4, 2009)

Just to follow up...the drywaller ended up using the J-bead on the rough end of the drywall on the new end-of-tub wall, backfilled the gap between the new J-bead and the old wall with mud. After that dried, he used paper corner bead on the old wall and the face of the 'jog'. Looks excellent!

Chris P.


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