# Fireplace popout cold air



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

How much demo to you want to do?

The reality is that the fireplace was set before the home was insulated and there is usually no insulation and zero attention to the air barrier details in those builder's grade fireplace installs.

If you have vinyl siding on the exterior, remove it all, pull the sheathing off, insulated the cavity with Roxul, seal all the gaps, and put it back together.

That is easier than interior demo and the vinyl siding (if that is what you have) can easily be re-used.

Be sure to remove it when it is relatively warm so it will bend as compared to crack.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Got a picture?
That bump out was suppot to be insulated and covered with plywood on the underside.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Windows on Wash said:


> How much demo to you want to do?
> 
> The reality is that the fireplace was set before the home was insulated and there is usually no insulation and zero attention to the air barrier details in those builder's grade fireplace installs.
> 
> ...


I'm pretty handy, I've been avoiding this since the house was still under warranty but I cannot convince the builder to do the demo. It is vinyl siding and aluminum fascia on the underside(vented style though, not sure if I should change this). I'm building my garage this summer if everything goes as planned so I'll have some spare materials incase anything breaks.

I believe my fireplace is a 0 tolerance model. Should I just insulate every gap possible with Roxul or should I try to have some warm basement air feed the cavity as well? Any vapor barrier needed?


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

joecaption said:


> Got a picture?
> That bump out was suppot to be insulated and covered with plywood on the underside.


I can take some when I get home to show which cut out I'm talking about.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Got a picture?
> That bump out was suppot to be insulated and covered with plywood on the underside.


+1

Pulling that down and spray foaming it is a pretty good option but access is usually a PITB because it is so close to the ground.



n0c7 said:


> I'm pretty handy, I've been avoiding this since the house was still under warranty but I cannot convince the builder to do the demo. It is vinyl siding and aluminum fascia on the underside(vented style though, not sure if I should change this). I'm building my garage this summer if everything goes as planned so I'll have some spare materials incase anything breaks.
> 
> I believe my fireplace is a 0 tolerance model. Should I just insulate every gap possible with Roxul or should I try to have some warm basement air feed the cavity as well? Any vapor barrier needed?


If you are handy, you can do it.

I would worry about the vapor barrier if you get it zipped up tightly.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Windows on Wash said:


> +1
> 
> Pulling that down and spray foaming it is a pretty good option but access is usually a PITB because it is so close to the ground.
> 
> ...


The builder did attempt to spray foam from the inside but that actually made things worse as now all the cold air was convecting through the bottom of the fireplace compared to some of the warm basement air countering it.

I'm assuming you mean you wouldn't vs would worry?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Some pictures sure would help.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Correct....wouldn't.

Good catch.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Windows on Wash said:


> Correct....wouldn't.
> 
> Good catch.


Better than my 0 tolerance comment above when I meant 0 clearance. Craving that beer after a long day I guess.


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