# New Cased Coil - Install to Furnace - PICTURES!!



## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

cant tell from the pics but if the coil and furnace are the same dimension or at least close like within 1 inch id ditch the brackets they gave you and just use pieces of s slip cut down and drill screwed into both furn and coil just use short screws and you should be good seal with 3 in metal tape


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I would like to fugure out what is going on before I modify anthing. Just incase my coil isn't the right one.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

hartkem said:


> I would like to fugure out what is going on before I modify anthing. Just incase my coil isn't the right one.


 

drain on the bottom, entering side (top of the a) facing the furnace,same width and depth, its the right coil in sure most installers would have ditched those brackets as soon as there was any question 



ok let the attacks begin...


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

So just so I am understanding correctly. I should have the top of the A facing the outlet of the furnace(backwards from what the manual says for a left horizontal downflow) with the drain at the bottom and the gas and liquid line on the same side as the front of the furnace. For that arrangement the flange of the coil would have to fit inside the bottom of the furnace which is flat. This exact arrangement suggested by kennezz05 is shown in the first picture.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

if trane says absolutly dont use the top of the a as entering side than thats ok too in a downflow application thats the way it would end up but if you want to turn it so bottom side of the a is entering side that is fine also i think the main reason is there is one way condensation is more likely to be blown off the coil fins (and yes by entering side i mean the outlet side of the furnace) if the flanges end up aiming at the furnace take a pair of tongs and flatten them. its done all the time and no big deal and use slip screwed to mount it (you understand what i mean there?)



if trane isnt specfic as to which way coil is turned id do it the way the first pic is and just flatten the flange out some companys carrier i think even perforate the flange to make it easier to bend


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

Trane does suggest using a guard when installing the (A) away from the furnace outlet. it is angled upward on the outlet side which would collect the water and drain it back into the bottom. I can bend the flange flat but I am not familiar with a slip and screwing it to the mount. Trane does specify which way to mount the (A) but the manual isn't printed right or something because there supplied mounts do not work right. Tran says to mount the (A) away on left horizontal applications.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

hartkem said:


> Trane does suggest using a guard when installing the (A) away from the furnace outlet. it is angled upward on the outlet side which would collect the water and drain it back into the bottom. I can bend the flange flat but I am not familiar with a slip and screwing it to the mount. Trane does specify which way to mount the (A) but the manual isn't printed right or something because there supplied mounts do not work right. Tran says to mount the (A) away on left horizontal applications.


 
i would turn the coil whichever way you dont need the optional drain kit if it requires flattening the flange than do it as far as the slip thing slip is whats used to put sections of duct togeather 2 sides slip togeather and the other sides are attached with drive material anyways slip is basicly just a piece of sheetmetal bent in an s shape about 1 and1/4 inch wide it comes in 8 foot lengths but you only need about1 foot 4x 3 in pieces screw one side to bottom of coil than other side to side of furnace its quite strong as its 3 pieces of metal thick do you understand you just use them kinda like straps to join coil to furnace are the coil and furnace the same width


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I assume that a s slip & drive is the same thing as a s cleat and drive cleat. Is there some sort of felt that I put between the coil and furnace to seal? I think I understand what to do. I won't actually be using the slip to connect it like you would two pieces of duct I am just using them for straps. Couldn't I do the same thing with a piece of 1/8 flat iron. This seems somewhat unprofessional. Do I wrap the joint with anything to cover the connection or hide the brackets? When I bend the flange do I bend it towards the center of the coil or towards the outside to flatten?


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

you can use foam tape but if you do a nice job with some 3 in metal tape its not a necessity good luck so you get what i mean about using 3 or 4 inch pieces of slip to attach coil to furnace right you know what, scratch using the s cleat. drive is more than sufficient


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

yes I understand what to do with the drive strip. I will use foam inbetween the coil and furnace and then wrap the joint with 3 inch metal foil tape. Which way should I bent the flange?

Thanks for your help.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

sorry for the delay in the reply had to take my mom (91 yr old) to the Dr. bend it inwards just so its flat dont get all hung up on getting it perfect just so you can get the two together relatively snug


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

no problem, I just apprciate you taking the time to help me. Now that I have hooking the coil up figured out I need to figure out how to hook up a plenum to the flat side of the coil. I will have a plenum custom built at a sheet metal shop.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

will you be useing supplyhouse premade duct? if so i think although its alot easier to work with you probably dont want to use the bubblewrap insulation use the tried and true fiberglass( any duct guys out there to confirm???) ok i think we have just about beaten this thread to death and glad to help nice talkin to ya if ya need anymore help i check email more than this [email protected]


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I will be installing a plenum on the outlet of the furnace then attaching two 10" round metal duct from local home improvement store to each side of the plenum. I will have the sheetmetal shop that is making my plenum put air vanes inside the plenum to help direct the air into each 10 in. line since it will essentially be a square box with two lines out each end forming a TEE.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

crap thought we were done here  ok dont know what size furnace is but make sure and you probably have that that is sufficient size duct to handle the airflow or youll have overheating issues you dont need turning vanes just put dampered takeoffs on the plenum and really id just make a square box as your plenum and tap outa that you dont need anything elaborate for what your describeing you can make it in two pieces the first being the 4 sides of the box with a 1/2 lip on both ends of the box so you can screw it to itself where the ends meet (so they overlap) and 1/2 lip at top and bottom top bent inward bottom bent outward so it can be screwed to the coil. than you just make a "cover" for the open end of the box with 1/2 lips on all 4 sides so it can be secured


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

It is making more sense now. I can make the plenum myself out of the flimsy metal available at Home depot in the HVAC section. I will cut four pieces to size and then make lips on the sides of two pieces that I can screw to the other two pieces to form the box. I will make a lip on the end to attach to the coil. i will do the same for the end cap. 

I may just go ahead and use 12" round rigid duct instead to make sure it is big enough. I will have two trunklines out each side of the plenum so surely that is enough.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

i was wondering when we would start a second page:laughing: you got it although if you have an re michaels nearby id go get the metal there or other a/c supply house but not knowing where u are i dont kno if you mentioned it or its on your sig. sorry 
so how many btus is furnace and tonage of a/c you can figure 450 cfm per ton try googleing ductulator it will tell you how big ducts should be based on tonnage also furnace should mention airflow cfm somewhere


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I am located in Southern California. A lot of supply houses won't sell to me because I am not a contractor. Is there a specific type of metal I need to get. Prefered guage? Furnace is 60,000 btu with 3 ton A/C. I will look into the ductualator. Surely two 12" metal ducts will be big enough. Can I be to big?


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

yea too big and your airflow will peter out how far are the runs if they are really long you need to progressively get smaller and smaller to maintain velocity and you could call supply house and ask if they will sell the metal to you not like you have to be licenced to buy a piece of metal thts like saying they wont sell you any air filters explain this is for your house and your not doing some hokey sidejob if you have to. i cant remember gauge its been a while but im thinking 18 gauge


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I really appreciate all your help. Looks like I have some work to do.


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## pipefitter636 (Nov 1, 2008)

i cant remember gauge its been a while but im thinking 18 gauge[/quote]
Only if you want it bullet proof:thumbup:


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

pipefitter636 said:


> i cant remember gauge its been a while but im thinking 18 gauge


Only if you want it bullet proof:thumbup:[/quote]
well i did say i wasnt sure so maybe its 22 ga? and whats wrong with bullitproof duct i ask???


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## pipefitter636 (Nov 1, 2008)

Quote:
Originally Posted by *pipefitter636*  
_i cant remember gauge its been a while but im thinking 18 gauge_

This was not posted by me. Please edit:wink:


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## pipefitter636 (Nov 1, 2008)

Only if you want it bullet proof:thumbup:[/quote]
well i did say i wasnt sure so maybe its 22 ga? and whats wrong with bullitproof duct i ask??? Your getting closer:whistling2:


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

well you seem to want to be mysterious about the gauge let me say frankly scarlett i dont give a rats patootie what gauge as i am now a over the road truck driver and dont do this work anymore (and im saying this all with a smile no hostility) but it might benifit the original poster but ill try one more time 28 ga.??? or 26 i keep wanting to put an 8 in there please end my suffering...ken:laughing:


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## hvac122 (Dec 10, 2007)

28 or 26 gage would me fine. I would have the sheetmetal shop make the plenum for you. I will hold up better. 

No way of knowing if the duct would be sized right until we have some model numbers of the equipment you are installing. Poor duct design will loose your units efficiency just for starters. It could also cause a multitude of problems with your whole system. A ductulator will only help so much. Watch your pressure drop with every fitting.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Ain't nobody gonna tell the OP how PRETTY that Trane looks up on cinder blocks?

Kinda like a Good 'Ol Boy's front yard with a beat up '63 Chevy on blocks.

Would it have killed you to hard pipe it all the way to the unit?


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

hvaclover said:


> Ain't nobody gonna tell the OP how PRETTY that Trane looks up on cinder blocks?
> 
> Kinda like a Good 'Ol Boy's front yard with a beat up '63 Chevy on blocks.
> 
> Would it have killed you to hard pipe it all the way to the unit?


i do belive hes in ca. where flex is a requirement cinder blocks well... there just sturdy lol


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

kennzz05 said:


> i do belive hes in ca. where flex is a requirement cinder blocks well... there just sturdy lol


LOL you know you are just being nice. Somebody who posts picture of their projects should get ready for some input.


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I think it looks good for my first install of a furnace. I do have a lot of experience with HVAC but its on automobiles.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

hartkem said:


> I think it looks good for my first install of a furnace. I do have a lot of experience with HVAC but its on automobiles.



Ok, look, I'm not trying to bust your efforts, but those cinder blocs are going to transmit noise and probably wear a hole in your drain pan.

The sheet metal has to be 26 gauge minimum. You should have that furnace SUSPENDED from the roof with threaded rod connected a length of squared metal stock. If you really want a quiet install add another piece of square metal stock and have it sitting on thick springs.


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## pipefitter636 (Nov 1, 2008)

I can't tell for sure but it looks like the drip leg is b4 the gas cock. If so move it to the outlet side of the gas cock. Like hvaclover said 26g min. Also don't forget to insulate. Just remenber if you are going to insulate the inside of the duct you are going to lose 2in on the width and length. Be sure to compensate for a larger supply and return by 2in. Also make sure you put canvas connectors on the suply and return. If you chose to leave the blocks in place (not recomended)(see hvaclover's recomendation)at least put isolation pads between the block and furnace.


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## pipefitter636 (Nov 1, 2008)

*hvaclover*

Sorry I couldn't reply to your message says I need 20 posts. But I know what you mean:wink:


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

I understand you are concerned about the cinder blocks making noise but what you can't see is that the drain pan is sitting on top of a 3/4 in piece of plywood which is sitting on top a 2 inch thick piece of foam insulation to dampen the noise. I also put 1/4 thick isolation pads on top of the cinder blocks between the blocks and the furnace.


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## bluefitness (Sep 4, 2008)

hartkem said:


> I understand you are concerned about the cinder blocks making noise but what you can't see is that the drain pan is sitting on top of a 3/4 in piece of plywood which is sitting on top a 2 inch thick piece of foam insulation to dampen the noise. I also put 1/4 thick isolation pads on top of the cinder blocks between the blocks and the furnace.




Is there a reason why you need the furnace raised so high? Normally, one would use pressure treated wood in the pan (4x4 or two 2x4's nailed together) with isolator pads between the furnace and wood. In your case, I would cut them the entire length of the furnace and coil and run them parallel to the unit. I would then use 8 isolator pads. Put a pad at each corner of the furnace and at each corner of the coil.

For added stability, you can use 3 pieces of wood.

1. 4x4 cut the entire length of the furnace and coil
2. 4x4 cut the length of the furnace
3. 4x4 cut the length of the coil

Piece number one is used as the back support. You will then stagger piece two and three as the front support. The only reason you do this is because the furnace is deeper than the coil.


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## bluefitness (Sep 4, 2008)

When you move the drip leg after the shut off valve, connect your flex line to the top of the drip leg.


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## hartkem (Oct 4, 2008)

Thanks for showing me how to hook up the drip leg.


The install manual says the furnace needs to be off the ground a minimum of 6 inches. This is because the trap for the condensate drain must be moved from inside the furnace to the bottom when used in a horizontal configuration


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## bluefitness (Sep 4, 2008)

hartkem said:


> Thanks for showing me how to hook up the drip leg.
> 
> 
> The install manual says the furnace needs to be off the ground a minimum of 6 inches. This is because the trap for the condensate drain must be moved from inside the furnace to the bottom when used in a horizontal configuration


I would still take the blocks out. It will wear a hole through the pan. There are a lot of ways to get that clearance. I think a few people have mentioned it.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

lyjg1117 said:


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ok i give up what the hell is that


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