# Small Shop / Garage build thread



## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

Hey folks, I've posted a few threads here in the past couple years about a small shop / garage I wanted to build behind my house. I finally got started this weekend and I just wanted to provide some pictures and a walk through of what I'm doing. I'd like any kind of advice any here have to offer. Here is a link to a thread when I first started the ideas:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/building-storage-building-small-shop-please-step-62298/

There are a few other threads on the foundation and some other bits and pieces. I did end up ordering my wood from a lumber yard. It was nice too, because every bit of it was delivered to me in my driveway, and ended up being cheaper than the local Lowes building supply store. 

I took three days off of work to hopefully get this thing framed up, and a roof over it. We had some rain in our forecast (just my luck). It didn't really slow me down though because I still had alot of saw work to do on the rafters and some other stuff. 

Here is an autocad drawing of the frame. The only thing I changed is the right side wall - to accommodate the roll up door and raised the ceiling to 9' instead of 8' for more headroom. 









Here is a finished rendering of it. Again, no roll up door and 8' ceilings here. 









Starting the project friday morning:


















Left side and back wall up. I almost couldn't raise the back wall by myself because it was pretty heavy.


















Roll up door side framed and up. This took longer than I thought, because it has alot of special sized pieces and all. those little cripples above the header had to be toe nailed and that was hard. I've gotten pretty good at toe nailing. 


















To raise the front wall, I built one side and put a temporary cap piece up there, raised it, and did the same for the other side. Then I did the other side the same way. When I got them both up I took the temporary pieces off and put the permanent 16' plate up there. I had to put the door headers up and all the cripples, and then rack the walls again and put the top caps on. Sounds easy, looks easy, but none of it was..









Here's a picture of the bird's mouths on the rafters. alot of saw work on the rafters. I cut those saturday on my covered back patio waiting on the rain to stop.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

I managed to get the ceiling joists up (which I changed to 2x6s instead of 2x4s. The inside will not be finished and there will be nothing hanging from them, but I still wanted them a little stronger.) The rain pretty much curbed my progress saturday so I picked back up yesterday (sunday). Here are the ceiling joists up and the rain..









And here is a picture of how it stands now. I did the rafters and ridge board yesterday and got it almost done. Still have some nailing to finish up, but the frame is 95% complete. 









I'm not gonna be able to finish it all right away and I'm afraid to put any OSB on it that will be left exposed. I've seen rain really mess that stuff up. My plan was to get the whole thing framed up, and a roof on it it by yesterday afternoon. I didn't factor in being so sore I can hardly move and rain though. I had had no idea how hard this was going to be on me. I completely underestimated the physical part of it haha. I have to let my boss at work know ahead of time if I want time off like this because I work 7 days a week. It was a stretch to get these three days off and now I'm worried about it. It has already been rained on once, and I'm afraid it may be a few weeks before I can get some more days off to put the roof on it. Will the frame be okay with a little rain here and there until I can get to the roof?


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

I forgot to add, and I still can't believe it, but I did every single nail and piece in this thing with no help by myself. I guess If you want to do something bad enough you will find a way lol


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

Looks nice, great progress and pictures. I want one!


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Good job. Your framing is fine; it will dry once you get it covered. Now, it's really great to be able to say "I did it", but it looks like you live in a nice neighborhood, which I am sure has a lot of nice people, so as your aching body has already told you, get some help before trying to lift the sheathing up to the roof, etc.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

This site used to have alot more replies. Where did all the help go? 

I'm wondering if I have everything I need in my roof framing. Do I need to have some bracing up there of some sort? It just doesn't seem supported enough for me.


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## SteelToes (Oct 5, 2010)

J S Machine said:


> This site used to have alot more replies. Where did all the help go?
> 
> I'm wondering if I have everything I need in my roof framing. Do I need to have some bracing up there of some sort? It just doesn't seem supported enough for me.


Looks nice!
But where is the foam sill-plate gasket ?
Also how did you attach those bottom plates to the slab ?


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

SteelToes said:


> Looks nice!
> But where is the foam sill-plate gasket ?
> Also how did you attach those bottom plates to the slab ?



No foam gasket was ever mentioned as a requirement by the building inspector here in AL. I've never seen a house in construction with them either. The plates are attached with 1/2" concrete anchors.


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## waterman1971 (Apr 19, 2009)

Great job JS outstanding! If you can do all that in a few days, the shingles will be easy.


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## SteelToes (Oct 5, 2010)

J S Machine said:


> No foam gasket was ever mentioned as a requirement by the building inspector here in AL. I've never seen a house in construction with them either. The plates are attached with 1/2" concrete anchors.


That's because you are using PT for the bottom plates so there is no need for capilary break.
I use it ,it is inexpenisive and to some extent seals the gaps in between bottom plate and concrete preventing heat loss and acts as a barrier to insects.

What kind of anchors ?
Red Heads ? Are they galvanized?
What about the overhang ?


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

yes those are PT bottom plates. 

Not sure on the specific type of anchors. The have a small collar that expands as the nut is tightened and pulls the bolt up. Holes drilled in slab were 1/2". they are galvanized.


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## SteelToes (Oct 5, 2010)

Good job that is going to be one nicely build shop.
Post some pictures when you are done!


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## CookeCarpentry (Oct 17, 2009)

J S Machine said:


> This site used to have alot more replies. Where did all the help go?
> 
> I'm wondering if I have everything I need in my roof framing. Do I need to have some bracing up there of some sort? It just doesn't seem supported enough for me.


Sheath your walls first.

Add a simpson H2 hurricane clip to each rafter.

Frame in your gable end walls and sheath.

Then sheath the roof.

The H2s and sheathing will be more than enough to make that a sturdy roof.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

CookeCarpentry said:


> Sheath your walls first.
> 
> Add a simpson H2 hurricane clip to each rafter.
> 
> ...


I do have the hurricane ties for the rafters, I just haven't put them up yet. 

Is it absolutely imperative that I sheath the walls before I start on the roof? I have had several people tell me this. 

My main concern right now is to get the bare frame covered as quickly as possible. I don't have hardly any time to work with, and that is turning into a real problem. 

Somebody here already mentioned that the rain won't hurt my bare frame, but I don't know. I know that sheathing the walls will be a chore, and I don't have any help. It is just me working. I am afraid that I won't be able to get the walls sheathed and covered before a rain comes and I really don't want the OSB to get wet. That is the reason I wanted to do the roof first. This way, once the roof is up, I can take my time on the wall sheathing without really having to worry about the elements. 

Please excuse my frustration, I'm just a little tied by work at the moment. I took three days off in hopes of framing it and getting a roof on it, but that didn't happen. So now, I don't know when I will get another day off, and I am left to do this for an hour or so each night after I get home from work. I can't really stay out there too long nailing on the thing in the dark. I live in a neighborhood and people will surely start complaining if I don't go inside in a timely manner each night. 

What I meant on the roof support framing is some sort of ties or something. the rafters are attached at the bottom near their tails to the ceiling joist and double plates of the walls, and of course up top at the ridge board. Other than this, there are no other structural pieces keeping the rafters from swaying sided to side, like the domino effect so to speak. is there suposed to be some sort of 45 degree supports in there somewhere?


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## CookeCarpentry (Oct 17, 2009)

When you frame in your gable end walls, that will cut down on side-to-side movement.

And then the sheathing off the roof will lock the rafters into place.

I advise sheathing the walls before loading weight onto the roof as it will lock everything plumb and square.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

As long as you have adequate temporary bracing on your walls you can do the roof first. You have some but not enough. You need all four walls squared up, plumb and angle braced with the braces securely nailed or screwed into at least several studs and the plates. I have built many sheds, garages and even a house, sometimes I will shingle before I sheet the walls but I still usually sheet all the outside corners first. You are putting a lot of mass up on the roof, the walls need to be secure.

On a building that small I would probably just sheet all the walls first. You can quickly sheet it up by using full sheets and cutting out the openings later, after the roof is done. Don't worry about the small triangle shaped pieces to fill in the gable ends, you can easily do those after the roof is on. Those two things will significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to sheet it. When you are ready to cut the openings drill holes in the corners of the openings then use a straight edge to mark outlines of the opening on the outside of the sheeting. I have used a small cordless circular saw, a router with a flush trim bit, a sawzall, or even a jig saw to cut the openings. 

Don't use small pieces when sheeting the end with the roll up door. Use full sheets placed vertical and cut the door opening out after the sheet it is nailed on. Your opening takes up most of the end leaving very little for the lateral bracing that will keep that end from racking over time. A full 4 foot wide L shaped piece nailed securely will provide much better bracing than a bunch of scraps.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

iamrfixit said:


> As long as you have adequate temporary bracing on your walls you can do the roof first. You have some but not enough. You need all four walls squared up, plumb and angle braced with the braces securely nailed or screwed into at least several studs and the plates. I have built many sheds, garages and even a house, sometimes I will shingle before I sheet the walls but I still usually sheet all the outside corners first. You are putting a lot of mass up on the roof, the walls need to be secure.
> 
> On a building that small I would probably just sheet all the walls first. You can quickly sheet it up by using full sheets and cutting out the openings later, after the roof is done. Don't worry about the small triangle shaped pieces to fill in the gable ends, you can easily do those after the roof is on. Those two things will significantly reduce the amount of time it takes to sheet it. When you are ready to cut the openings drill holes in the corners of the openings then use a straight edge to mark outlines of the opening on the outside of the sheeting. I have used a small cordless circular saw, a router with a flush trim bit, a sawzall, or even a jig saw to cut the openings.
> 
> Don't use small pieces when sheeting the end with the roll up door. Use full sheets placed vertical and cut the door opening out after the sheet it is nailed on. Your opening takes up most of the end leaving very little for the lateral bracing that will keep that end from racking over time. A full 4 foot wide L shaped piece nailed securely will provide much better bracing than a bunch of scraps.


Thanks. I appreciate the tip about the drilled holes in the cutouts. I have a jig saw I will do it that way.


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## <*(((>< (Mar 6, 2009)

I would ask the neighbors nearby if anyone has a nail gun and compressor and can lend a hand for a couple of hours, it would take next to now time to sheet the sides and roof with an extra set of hands. I know if my neighbor asked I would volunteer my tools and a few hours to be a good neighbor. That's what its all about isn't it?

Framing looks good and the suggestion about the sheathing on the gable end with the overhead door is a good suggestion, that is the definite weak point in the structure and any little bit will help.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Great looking job so far… and I anticipate it looking just as good all the way through to completion.


One very important point has been made already. That’s a big opening for the door, so you do want to be sure it is good and square. Then put your sheathing on in full pieces. Your header looks fine. Good and sturdy. But the added rigidity of full sheets making those corners and tying every bit of lumber there together is nothing but valuable insurance against movement.


Have you considered overhead storage? You’re built nice and heavy, so the rafter ties will comfortably support a reasonable amount of weight. Also, putting a light plywood floor up there will also help add to the stability of the whole square shape. Access could be made through one of the gable ends.

You might also want to consider extending the lengths of the center five rafters over the personnel door (or maybe only three) by a couple more feet. It will be easy to frame in a nice entry overhang for rainy weather when you are standing there unlocking the door. It’s a bummer to have the roof shedding all that rain down right on top of you.

One neat thing about having 9' ceilings is that you have ample room to construct nice, high shelves all around the edges of the upper walls... or hangers for long stock, up there out of the way.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

Update time.

This past week I finished up nailing everything, and also added some OSB to the ends so I could put the jack rafters with lookouts on and cap everything off. 




























I know this isn't the best way to do this and it would have been better if built a little more structurally stable. I figured when I get everything tied to the roof sheathing, this 1' overhang created by the jack rafters and lookouts will be more solid than it appears. There are 20d 3.5" nails running through the end rafters into the lookouts on the jack rafters. The lookouts are also toe nailed and the jack rafters are face nailed to the end of the ridge board. The fascia board is a 2x6 as well, so that should tie them in well too. 

I started putting the roof sheathing on Saturday afternoon after work. It took me about an hour to figure out a way to get the pieces up there. I started with a rope attached to clamps thinking I was going to drag it up there. That was a joke..(5/8 OSB) So I finally figured out if I took my extension ladder and put the two sections side by side and tied them together I could create a ramp. I could then push the pieces up the "ramp" and climb behind them to get them up. The first one was the hardest to put in place on the roof, after that the others seem to fall in place without much issue..other than exhaustion. Heavy isn't the word..




























Here's a view from the roof peak showing the cutouts in the sheathing for the ridge vent. They turned out a little smaller than I intended, but it is just a shop so I'm sure it will work fine. 










Here I have put my felt on and stapled it in place. I have some felt nails with the little plastic caps, but I will put them on when I start to putting shingles on as I go up. I didn't have to get on the roof to put the felt on, just rolled it on and stapled it on the ends to provide some sort of water protection. I hope to start getting shingles up in the next day or two. Now that the time has changed I will have an hour of daylight each night when I get home. This is as far as I've gotten as of now. 



















I was talking to some people this morning about the felt, and pretty much everybody agreed that I need to go and put some nails in the stuff so it doesn't blow off. I thought I had it attached well on the ends but I guess it isn't like it should be. I'm gonna try to leave work early today and go home and attach it better. I have some of the felt nails with the plastic caps on them.


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## SteelToes (Oct 5, 2010)

Looks great J S!
Nice job!

To me it looks thousand times better with a 1' overhang.
Just my opinion.

Nice job.


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## waterman1971 (Apr 19, 2009)

J.S. get you some tin caps and staple through them, it will be much quicker.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Looks like you are moving right along! I'll mention a few things and why. Use some sticky window wrap on the bottom edge of the OSB because you don't have the required 8" to earth separation. Run a short sub-fascia from the second common rafter out to hold the gable O.H. fly rafter, cutting the gable rafter short the 1-1/2" thickness required. Your box soffit wall ledger will also run out there for support. much easier to nail the wall sheathing off to the top plate before rafters.... Add more nails at the rafter/joist connection as per minimum Code for your pitch- 4/12= 5 nails; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_8_sec002_par023.htm

Remember your rafter blocking to prevent rotation on top the wall with closed soffits. Check man door R.O 82-5/8", big door= 7' or 8' height plus wrap thickness, same with sides to end with 16' net. Using a ridge vent, may want to check on the width per manufacturer. Remember drip edge, rake flashings and rake board (1x2) if used. Movin' along!

Gary


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

I got some felt nails up there today so the felt doesn't go anywhere. Ready to start shingling in the next few days. It is raining now, so I guess we'll see how it holds up.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

GBR in WA said:


> Looks like you are moving right along! I'll mention a few things and why. Use some sticky window wrap on the bottom edge of the OSB because you don't have the required 8" to earth separation.


Can you provide more info on this? I haven't gotten to the window part yet so I'm not sure how they are supposed to be installed. I have done some studying on the flashing and the way the sealing tape and all goes, but just like everything else there are 100 ways to do it and each and every one is right..I assume you mean the same stuff I will be using for the windows..



GBR in WA said:


> much easier to nail the wall sheathing off to the top plate before rafters....


The reason I didn't sheath the walls before I stood them is because I would not have been able to pick them up. I have done every single bit of this project by myself. everything I have done had to be done in a way I could pick it up myself with no help. The rafter seat cuts come down and sit on the cap and some of the top plate, but the top plate still has some surface area to nail the sheathing to. It should not be to much of an issue; no nothces for rafters or anything. 



GBR in WA said:


> Add more nails at the rafter/joist connection as per minimum Code for your pitch- 4/12= 5 nails; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_8_sec002_par023.htm


Thanks. I will do that. My pitch is 6/12 though.



GBR in WA said:


> Remember your rafter blocking to prevent rotation on top the wall with closed soffits.


I was wondering about this, and I'm not sure exactly what needs to be done or how to do it. 



GBR in WA said:


> Using a ridge vent, may want to check on the width per manufacturer.


I did. Both sides of the cut out are about a 1/2" too tall, because I added something wrong in my calculator. I don't think a 1/2" on either side of the ridge board is enough to worry about though. This is only a shop.



GBR in WA said:


> Remember drip edge, rake flashings and rake board (1x2) if used. Movin' along!


I have my drip edge, and my rake boards and fascia boards will be covered in metal, to go with the vinyl siding trim.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The bottom edge of sheathing is near ground level, rather than elevated away from the splash surface. OSB hates water. The siding should cover the OSB by 1" lap, because the framing is flush with the slab. the OSB will be edge exposed from below, behind the siding. I would cover the edge to protect it from water, bugs, moisture and condensation in the air. OSb does not dry readily, the wet travels sideways into the center of the sheet before drying outward; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...nd-the-gap-eh/?searchterm=foam board in walls I would use the window wrap along the bottom edge for protection. 

I meant sheath the walls after frame is up to nail the sheathing at double top plate for ease of installation. Then rafters. No biggie...

The 4/12 was an example, use nails required for your pitch as that is the weak area.

The blocks can install on edge between rafter/joist lined up flush with the outside edge of top plate or there-a-bouts. Code has changed---- blocking not required if under the IRC unless 2x10 or greater when adding the ceiling joist thickness to the rafter thickness; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_8_sec002_par028.htm

Blocking is still required in the seismic zone I live in, as well as floor joist intermediate wall blocking. So, possibly required for others in a high wind area. I stand corrected.

“I don't think a 1/2" on either side of the ridge board is enough to worry about though. This is only a shop.” ---- seems like you are going to the trouble of venting the ridge, taking a few extra minutes to make sure of maximum opening slot would be worth it…. When your slot is 1” wide but under-cut ½”, you would be 50% less effective than total. 

Sounds good on the fascia metal, drips, etc…..
http://ohiobuildingcodeconsultants.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/portalwallbracingdetail.pdf


Gary


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

Ok sorry for the lack of updates. I have been busy with work and this thing. I do have pictures though..

I left guys with the roof covered in felt and not properly cap nailed. Well I did leave work early that day to go and put some felt nails in. It rained like crazy that night so I'm glad I got that done. The next day I started with the drip edge and also the fascia boards. Finished up the drip edge and got the shingle starter roll on all the way around. 

I didn't get a picture with the shingle starter roll on on because it was dark when I finished that night. Here are two pics with the felt nailed and drip edge up right before I did that though


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

I started on the roofing and finished it up in about three days. Roofing is mentally easy, but physically demanding. Roofers earn their money..that is for sure :yesnod:


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)




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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

I put up a couple more pieces of whole OSB up. Those are easy, because all you have to do is stick them up and nail. You can see that, as well as some other details of the building here-


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

Poor quality pic right here - looking from the opening of the garage door on the end to the inside










Some of the outside before the cutouts. The sheathing is properly spaced, although hard to see in the pictures




























And with the cutouts


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

Windows in and flashed, and felt wrap started.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

I got the roll up door in night before last. Mounted the hanger brackets and the tracks, and then devised about 79 different plans of how to lift that *&^%&$% heavy )*&&&%^$%* heavy **&^%%* thing into place, and finally, number 79 worked..

I got one end of it up and that axle over the hanger bracket. Took tie down straps and secured it to the hanger bracket so it wouldn't slide off when I picked the other end up. I ended up taking a floor jack and a come along and lifting / pulling it up into place. I walked into the house at 8:33 pm..

My wife said "well, You're persistent..I'll give you that," ha. I Got it finished and working last night. This was money well spent. I really like it and think it is a major asset to the usefulness and appearance of the building. Not a walk in the park to get it running on the tracks and lined up correctly, but it just took a little patience. 

Here we are on the inside with it sitting on the brackets still wrapped:



















And finished, from the outside


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Very nice job

You mentioned inspector, so no shear wall or special anchoring requirement? The diagonal braces are adequate? Are they let into the wall?

I have never done expanding anchors to hold down a building - always installed J bolts in the slab - or as retrofit done epoxied bolts in drilled holes.

You mentioned not finishing the walls - I like to go ahead and insulate and install pegboard sheets. Handy in a shop and gives a finished appearance.

Good choice to go with 9' height.

What are the electric plans?


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

vsheetz said:


> Very nice job
> 
> You mentioned inspector, so no shear wall or special anchoring requirement? The diagonal braces are adequate? Are they let into the wall?
> 
> ...


There are 4 achors on the back wall, 1 on either side of the roll up door, 4 across the front, and 3 on the end wall. Discussed this with the building inspector and he said it would be fine. 

The diagonal braces were simply to stabilize the walls while I was working on other parts of it. The OSB is where the real stength is - from what I understand. No, they are not let into the studs. I didn't see the need. 

Peg board is a cool idea. I might do that. I'd like to have the building insulated, but not at the moment. Maybe at a later date. 

The electrical is the only thing I can't do myself. The building inspector told me that has to be done by a licensed contractor. I can't even do the work and have it inspected. I will probably just run a small 110 to it on a single breaker. No need for much. I'd like to have a 220 line, but I'm not getting that serious with it. Just a couple of plugs, and a few lights.


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## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Some of my questions came before I saw the additional pictures, construction details, and good work you've done - looking great!

Too bad you can't do the electric yourself. You might consider to run a MWBC (multi-wire branch circuit) to the building. About the same labor and only a bit more in material cost and you get two 120v circuits instead of one. A search here will tell you all about a MWBC.

For overhead storage if you can just run some plywood down the middle of the ceiling joists, leaving a couple gaps for access. Good place to put stuff like Christmas decorations.


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## J S Machine (Oct 6, 2009)

Building dept just called and said they went by and checked it out. They said I did a great job. Now that feels good


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