# Hanging TV on Uneven Fireplace Brick (veneer?)



## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

Hello Everyone, 

This is my first post. 

I'd like to mount a TV to my fireplace, but I'm not exactly sure how to go about it, reason being that I believe the brick to be a faux veneer. 

The house I live in is more than a hundred years old, so I know that this fireplace was real once, leading me to believe that there would be no wooden studs behind this veneer? Even if there were, I probably wouldn't be able to find them behind the veneer. 

Would anyone mind throwing some suggestions my way on how one might go about mounting this tv? I've included some photos that I hope will help. For what it's worth, the tv is a '43 inch LED TV so its not too heavy. 

Thanks folks!

I'll post the pics in the next post, since this is my first one.


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

Lets try these pics again.


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)




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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Whatever you do, the anchors for the TV have to go in much much deeper than the thickness of the masonry veneer.

You don't want the veneer flaking off due to outward pull, taking the mounting bolts and the TV to the ground with it.

If you were to tie a lawn mower start-pull cord to one of the bolts or fastenings you put in the wall and give the handle a reasonable tug, if yoy would feel uncomfortable doing that then the fastening is not good enough

When you come up with a fastening you do feel comfortable with, put four of them close to the level of the top edge of the TV screen to hold the TV mount or an intermediate wood support member.

The above assumes a non-swiveling non-telescoping mount.


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Before you do anything you need to determine if it really is veneer or if it's real stone. With a home that old and knowing that the fireplace was a real one at one point in time (why isn't it a real one now?) it seems quite likely that it's real stone not a veneer. The best way to do this would be to try drilling through it with a masonry bit and see how deep you have to drill to get through it and what you get to one you go through it. Without knowing that it's going to be hard to determine how to attach anything to it.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Thinking outside the box, consider suspending a mounting bracket from the ceiling with a couple of wrought iron looking rods or strap.


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

Thanks for the responses. I should have clarified: The fireplace has been mortared off, meaning that it is no longer functional. Structurally, I'm sure it is the same. 

Also, I can only assume this to be veneer because of the thickness of these "stones" and the way that they feel when giving them a good knock. I sure wish they were real, but I really dont think they are.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

They're definately early cultured (man made thin) stone. I wouldn't chnce drilling through the the stone themselves, but through the mortar joints instead. I would expect that there's brick about 1-1.5" below the surface. I would then use a 3/8" x 3"+ sleeve anchors at a minimum..........


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

Looks like a 1970's remodel of an existing brick fireplace. 

Best to drill and inspection hole through a mortar joint to see what it is comprised of and then figure out what you are going to be mounting it though. 

After that, it should be easy enough to space/shim your mounting points to level up the TV bracket.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Maybe..?

Trace where you want the TV to be.
Cut that portion out and frame.
Then hang the TV.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Thinking outside the box, consider suspending a mounting bracket from the ceiling with a couple of wrought iron looking rods or strap.


After thinking about it, this /\ /\ is probably a better idea than mounting it the FP. Here's one example, I'm sure they make something that looks nicer too........

http://store.videomountstore.com/33...AdxN8094AvB-bfyDRy4FryfGraT-61PzMgaAote8P8HAQ


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

All quiality ideas. Thanks everyone, keep em coming. 

Jomama, the Ceiling mount was was my first choice on all of this, but I just cant stand the aesthetics. 

It's gonna have to go onto the fireplace itself, I'm just looking for a plethora of ideas here. I've heard redhead fasteners or the blue masonry screws are best.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

With a little imagination....

http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects...cabinet_that_holds_audio_and_video_components


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

That stone is probably 1.5-2" thick. I would find what tv you want to use and just a piece of 2x6 or 2x8 that fits behind the mount. Then trace the 2x on the stone and take a grinder and remove the stone. Secure the 2x to whatever is behind the stone, then secure the mount to that. I would also be fishing wires behind the wall to feed the tv through the 2x and mount. Once the tv is up its all hidden. If you ever remove the tv a simple picture or mirror overs the wood.


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

I think that cutting the veneer off and using wood to mount the TV mount is going to be the route I go. Thanks for the help everyone.

So, I would use two vertical pieces of 2x6, that are smaller than the overall height of the tv, and mount them to the masonry behind the veneer. 

Do you all have any recommendations for fasteners?

Then, would I just use standard....3 inch? wood screws to mount to the 2x6's?

Thanks,


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

To mount the mount to the 2x6's. Pardon me.


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

Depends what is behind the stone. If cinder then use concrete anchors or tap-cons just make sure whatever you use can handle the load. If wood framing them I would use 3.5" or 4" wood screws go through the 2x into the studs. When I did mine I used 2x8 that was 34" wide to hit 3 studs laying horizontally. But I had a big tv and easily covered this. I would say a 2x6 or 2x8 cut at 18" would be fine, assuming you have studs you can hit 2 and secure it, no matter what you hang in there it will be strong enough


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

Well, after drilling a couple of test holes, I have found that about 3/4 of an inch behind the mortar joints, is what looks to be a sheet of plywood, presumably screwed on to studs.

This is good to know, but now I have a problem: How the hell can I fund studs?! Im fairly certain my stud finder is not going to penetrate through the faux brick, mortar, and plywood sheathing to locate a stud. Is my only option to keep drilling until I find a stud, then measure 16 or 14 inches to either side to see where the next one is?

The structure itself is 70 inches wide, if that helps


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## nfortch332 (Dec 8, 2015)

16 or 24 inches*


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Since you now know that it's plywood behind the "stone", I would start out by using a side grinder to cut out an area for a double gang electrical "old work box".

That would let you see just how much room is behind the facade, and to locate the studs (which aren't really needed since the plywood will be sufficient).

If there is room enough behind the facade you could then use something like the DataComm 45-0023-WH power bridge which will allow for both power and video cabling.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

In my experiences, studs are on anything BUT 16" or 24" centers on a fireplace. Usually pretty random, and not always the same form one side to the other.

I might think about some toggle bolts to the backside of the plywood.......


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

Agree with both posts above. I would cut a bigger hole and see what's back there. If you can hit a stud great, if not a toggle bolt behind the stud will do it. If the wall was built correctly you will have studs, plywood, metal lath, motor and stone. That's a lot of weight and the studs should be on 16" to support it. No harm in cutting a bigger hole that will be hidden by the 2x6


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

I simply cannot understand why you would want, or need, to mount a piece of wood to this fireplace facade.

What's the purpose? All it will do is move the TV mount farther away from the surface, and put a greater load on the mounting screws/bolts. This is a totally unnecessary thing to do. Same with using toggle bolts.

Lag screws into the plywood are more than sufficient to hold the mount and the flat panel in place.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

ktkelly -

The plywood sheet is there to provide a soil mounting for the TV or adjustable (rotating, tilting swinging) bracket. It allows the TV to be placed where the viewer wants it irregardless of the framing of the masonry, wood or "trickled tin" studs. If the plywood is large enough (width and height), you can easily attached to solid bearing. It is usually just smaller than the TV and can the finished to minimize it appearance. Mine is 3/4" finished plywwod

I have a TV mounted to a brick fireplace (not load-bearing", but real brick and substantial). I can swing the mount almost 180 degrees and have an effective viewing range of 135 degrees and the ability to tilt the TV.

Dick


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Dick,

You apparently didn't understand my post.

*Others* here are suggesting *adding* a 2by to the facade, and then mounting the TV to it.

That is what I'm questioning.

I fully understand that the existing plywood is more than sufficient to hold the TV.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

I would not depend on lag bolts into plywood to hold anything that heavy and expensive. Plywood isn't thick enough to hold a thread or two of a lag bolt...........


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

ktkelly said:


> Dick, You apparently didn't understand my post. Others here are suggesting adding a 2by to the facade, and then mounting the TV to it. That is what I'm questioning. I fully understand that the existing plywood is more than sufficient to hold the TV.


It was given as an option because the bricks are in even and they are stone veneer. The stone is probably 2" thick therefor an option was to remove section of stone and replace with a 2x that would be flat and secured to the base under the stone. Then the mount can be lagged right into the 2x. I would not drill and mount to stone veneer since it is just stuck to the wall with mortar and not meant to hold a load.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

I can't tell you just how many flat panels I've hung in just this kind of situation, as I've been doing this since the very first plasma sets hit the market. Fact is, I sold the very first Pioneer 50" PDP in my market (It was $21,000.00 at the time) back in the spring of 1997.

Yes, it was mounted exactly as I described, and bear in mind that is was one very heavy TV compared to the LCD's of today.

I drilled pilot holes through the facade, then used six 5 inch lag bolts to secure the mount to the plywood behind the faux stone. Yes, two of those lag bolts did hit studs, as I installed an old work box and knew were the studs were.

Yes, the stone was uneven, but the mount was made out of steel and it was flat.

That same TV is still hanging there, and is still in operation after all these years, so I think I might have done it right for some reason. :devil3:


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

And that is fine if someone doesn't want the mount flat on the wall. Those old tv's are heavy and the saver here is you hit at least 1 stud. Every situation is different, the 2x option proposed solves the problem the thread starter asked. It's not my house or my TV I just offered a1 possible solution to his question. Yours is another. He can pick what he wants. With the uneven bricks I would go with the 2x to mount to an even base. Maybe some people like their mounts cockeyed and not flat on the wall... if so they should use your method.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Olcrazy1 said:


> Maybe some people like their mounts cockeyed and not flat on the wall... if so they should use your method.




I guess in your zeal to dismiss that which a professional in the audio video field has done, you missed the part where I said the mount was *flat*.


Flat, level, not sticking out another 1 1/2 from the wall and supporting a very large, and heavy, Plasma Display.

Bear in mind that the original PDP set ran right in the 100 lb range, and the new LCD/LED sets run in the 30 lb range, so it doesn't take near as much to hang a set on the wall as it once did.


But then again, I guess you're right and I've been doing it wrong for all these years.


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

Your missing the point where he wanted to remove the fake 2" stone and replace with the 2x so nothing would be sticking out 1.5". Not saying your way is wrong, different ways Sti skin a cat. The issue here is the fake uneven stone that won't hold a load.


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Olcrazy1 said:


> Your missing the point where he wanted to remove the fake 2" stone and replace with the 2x so nothing would be sticking out 1.5". Not saying your way is wrong, different ways Sti skin a cat. The issue here is the fake uneven stone that won't hold a load.




Not missing a point at all. The OP never said he wanted to remove any of the facade, that you assume is 2" thick. That's something someone else recommended.

The fake stone isn't going to hold a load using my idea, but rather the plywood behind the stone is.


What I recommend is an easy and simple way to mount the TV without doing a lot of damage, or making one HUGE mess.


There is also the issue with getting power and AV wiring to the TV, but I do believe I addressed that earlier.



I'm done here. All you DIY'ers can do it in any manner you wish.


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## Olcrazy1 (May 28, 2013)

DIY'ers? Whatever buddy. You have no idea who you are speaking with or our capabilities so keep your opions to yourself. As I said, many ways to skin a cat and I have seen self proclaimed pro's that do hack work. These are forums, everyone adds their 2 cents and let the OP decide how he wants to do it. Not saying my way is better than yours or worse than yours just 2 different way of mounting a TV to a wall. Plus a way to actually hit 2 studs and a nice big hole to run wires up inside the wall and have an outlet and jacks behind the TV. I'm done here as well.


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

Considering we don't you know that it really is fixed or how thick it is removing a section of it to install the flat screen bracket sounds like a bad move. You don't know what you're going to get into when you start removing a section of it and repairs in the future could be a major issue.


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