# Old tractor - rough running



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Clogged fuel filter, water in the lines, is the most common cause.


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## Rough Rooster (Feb 7, 2015)

If it is distributor ignition check the point gap. A good possibility the point rubbing block wore away some material and the points are now too close. If this is the case put some grease on finger tip and wipe a VERY thin layer on the distributor cam to slow this process. Adjust points to specs which is 0.017" to 0.020".

RR :smile::smile:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

While you're at it, put a timing light on it , check the timing, adjust if necessary.

If the timing mark seems to float up and down erratically, suspect the timing chain and gears have worn out.

But my first idea was water in the gas.

ED

P. s. I thought of another problem I have found occasionally.

Sometimes the old rotor loses it's hold on the electrode on it, and the electrode will slip and point a few degrees off kilter, this causes a poor timing also.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Also with the ignition system, I would check that the condenser is tight and positioned so that it is not grounding out, and look at the inside of the distributor cap for signs of carbon arcing between terminals. While not as likely, also take a look at it while running in dim light to see if there is any arcing from the wires, whether to another wire or to ground.


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

I cleaned the screen filter going into carb, same problem. I don't think that's the problem. Tried adjusting the main jet, doesn't seem to make a difference either.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Does this have a settling bowl?

A thing in the fuel line that collects the crap that can and will get into a fuel system like this. It has a glass bowl so you can see the crap. 

I have seen them so full of water settlings that the tractor will not run.


ED


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

Not sure where the timing mark is supposed to be set either, a book talks about 16 degrees advance for LP engines but this is gas, it also shows 4 or 5 timing marks in a picture in same book but my pulley only has 1 mark ( TDC I,m assuming ).


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Sometimes there are marks cast into the front cover and only one on the balancer.

You can check timing with an ohm meter.


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

I don't know how to check timing with an ohm meter. Seems the timing was way advanced, been that way for many years, I don't know if I should leave it there or go to TDC ?


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

Could have had some fuel problems after all, I did take the sediment bowl off and clean that after I did the screen in carburetor inlet, I think the inlet to the bowl may have been obstructed. Oh, I managed to strip the brass fitting going into the carb, couldn't find anything at two auto parts stores, had to go to impliment dealer, a fitting and the washer socked me $ 26, wow. I'm afraid to try and run it now since I moved the timing a bit. Oh well, we'll see what happens I guess


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

No, nothing I did today seems to make a difference, it still runs like crap. Maybe I'll put the timing back to about where it was. All a project for another day. Not sure why it won't run good.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I asked my uncle last night. Crank should turn clockwise and you should have two marks on the pulley. First one is full advance and the second one is your base timing. Set the timing to the base (second) mark at idle. As you increase the throttle, timing will move to the first mark. Tweak it from there if needed.

He's 92 and has forgotten more than I'll know about these older tractors.


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

Well there's only one mark on pulley, I've looked several times.


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I'll ask him again tonight. What year?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Here is a problem that I have seen on many old tractors. 

They develop an oil leak, which is small, but over time the oil and dirt build up so deep that I could not see the pointer for the timing mark to align with to try to time the old thing, had to clean a pound or two of this trash off to find the pointer.

A picture of the works would be a better chance to get advise on trying to

time it.

Even if you see the line on the damper you still do not know what to use for a timing pointer, at least that I have read. 

So get out your pressure washer and give the thing a cleaning.


ED


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

Not sure, probably mid 1950's


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## shirbon (Oct 2, 2014)

De-nagorg, the pointer is very obvious, it's a pointed pin about 2 inches or so long, the notch on the pulley is also fairly obvious just needed a little chalk on it to see better.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

shirbon said:


> De-nagorg, the pointer is very obvious, it's a pointed pin about 2 inches or so long, the notch on the pulley is also fairly obvious just needed a little chalk on it to see better.


I like to use a little white enamel on those damper marks.

It makes the mark easily seen, and will be quasi-permanent. 

I have a small bottle of model car paint and a little brush in my timing kit.

Of course then you got to wash the brush, but it beats the heck out of searching for chalk over and over.


ED


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Sorry just got a hold of him yesterday. Still says you should have two marks with a point system. One is base, the other full advance. 

Early ones with a magneto had one mark and you set the static timing to the mark. Maybe someone put on an early pulley in the tractors life?

He recommends putting it back as close as you can. Your symptoms sound like your fuel system.

I am throwing this out there. I have read that some farmalls had three marks. Two relatively close together (timing) and one by itself. You line up the lone mark to grease the pilot bearing. I just don't know if this applies to you.


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