# help drawing a wiring diagram



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Put the Electronics (TV's, Computer, game system on a separate circuit), the Treadmill on one by itself possibly, due to load. Refrigerators on another, Microwave has to be on its own, lighting is the same, etc. The current NEC can be found at http://www.nfpa.org/freecodes/free_access_agreement.asp?id=7008SB
Also 2007 Fire Codes http://www.nfpa.org/freecodes/free_access_agreement.asp?id=7207


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## arichard21 (Oct 17, 2007)

kaosama, I don't know the code 100% and am not a professional, but for what its worth heres my 2 cents...


I would have the following circuits.

1 - 12AWG 20AMP or 14AWG 15 AMP den receptacles (to include hall light)
2 - 12AWG 20AMP exterior lighting and receptacles
3 - 12AWG 20AMP dedicated circuit for treadmill
4 - 12AWG 20AMP dedicated circuit for microwave
5 - 12AWG 20AMP dedicated circuit for fridge and freezer
6 - 12AWG 20AMP circuit for entertainment center
7 - 12AWG 20AMP circuit to shed

the rest, I am not 100% sure on, but you may need to have the 2 fan/heaters each on their own circuit because according to the specs they draw 12.5 amps - too much to put both on a 20AMP circuit.

Also, the AC unit will probably only need 12AWG wiring for it, but it would be smart to pick a unit BEFORE doing the wiring.


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

You need to check with ahj. In my area a homeowner can wire anything inside his house, but if you use it for business, then it must be done by an electrician.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You are correct, especially for a Daycare.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The fridges can be on 15 amp circuits, along with the Computer/Electronics. Exterior Lighting & Receptacles can also be on a 15 amp. For the Electronics, I would though place them on a Isolated Circuit, with a Surge protection system to help keep noise out of the Electrical lines.


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Drew this very quickly but we can go over it in more detail and others can have input also....to fine tune things. 8 branch circuits


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

The Electronics should be able to get away with just one circuit, and no other outlets attached to that circuit. I take it that the Orange are Isolated Outlets.


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

I have to step out for awhile but the orange was just to show the tv locations. I'm not sure what a big plasma draws for current plus the supporting equipment. In order to get it right we will need some load spec's of the equipment. This is just an overlay to get things started.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Our's draws 387W. At the most, we have a Motorola DVR running, and the Plasma on a Surge Power strip (DVD, Stereo, and 5 disc CD changer are mostly off all the time, unless we watch DVD's). Because our's is a older home, the Living room, and Front entry/outside lighting are hooked to the same circuit. There is also 3 other convenience outlets.

We get away with a 20 amp circuit for the desktop, due to also have a Window unit that runs off of the same, but only in the summer months. You do notice some noise in the monitor though.

For future Ref Stubbie, in case you need something as a Rule of thumb, this can be a nice favorite http://www.plasmadisplaycoalition.org/results/power.php


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Thanks I'll save that one. Be back on in an hour or so.

Stubbie


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

The treadmill is another question mark as excersise equipment if upper end product can easily need a individual branch where as those that are 15 amp cord and plug can go about anywhere. the smoke detector location is not going to work but left it there for informational purposes. It will have to go just inside the door where you enter the room.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Looks like Section 210.21(b)(1) & 210.23 covers it.

"One individual branch circuit for each treadmill per NEC article
210-21 (b) (1) and 210-23 (or other appropriate, country specific
electrical compliance guidelines). The hot, neutral and ground
wires must each be routed independently (not looped or tied to​other circuits.)"


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Ok thats good. See we are getting there..... What is your thought on leaving the 20 amp to the plasma. I considered a plasma load of 500 to 600 watts when I made the dedicated circuit. It's on the other side of the room from the breaker box. My intention was to provide more power than necessary for added growth and that circuit would be a convenient point to access for that purpose.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

My lighting/Convience circuit is a 15 amp (cannot split off the lighting without pulling new wire) at this time. When I moved into my house, we had only 4 circuits, and at this time, I have all but one empty slot, due to splitting apart the circuits like they should for the upper part of the house. The basement still has 4 circuits, which originally there was just the Dryer & Washer Circuit down there.

I have a 20/20 panel for my house, so you can imagine what I have done to think through my mind how to balance circuits.


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Yes you certainly have had to get the most for your buck. I hope the op comes back. I saw this the other day but could see it was well done by the op and deserved a decent effort. It struck me that it would be a good learning tool for some of the homeowner handymen that frequent the site as he has a lot going on in that room plus a feed to a shed.

He asked about suggestions for ceiling fans and frankly I don't have a lot of experience with ceiling fans with heating ability so I am reluctant to suggest any. However the factory page lists 120v 12.5 amps. Fixed space heating equipment is continuous load and required to have conductors that are 125% of the rated load. A motor is involved but has been calculated into the 12.5 amps. Without going into all the codes and considering NM-b as our cabling method you would need conductors rated 20 amps for the 16 amp computed load. 14 awg nm-b is rated 20 amps but is required to be breakered at 15. I think it would be better to run 12 awg breakered at 20 in case he purchases a fan heater needing a larger branch circuit. If we were to put both on one circuit we start into much bigger wire size. Plus I would think you would want to be able to control each fan individually but I would have to go back and review what he was wanting.

We can talk about some of the other things like the a/c and treadmill and microwave over the next few days.


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

I having a little condersating related to the ceiling fan/heater unit.

Stubbie you are right it do need it own circuit but with the size of the garage converted to daycare centre there will be some issueing to keep it warm and those ceiling fan/ heater don't really spit out very large amout of heat just like portable heater dish out [ about 5100 btu each ] so have find out where the OP do live and how well the wall be inslualted ditto with ceiling as well.


The other thing the OP did not catch it here the word " daycare " will automatically reqired a Tamperpoof repectale.

Merci, Marc


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Hi Frenchy

You know I completely forgot it was a daycare that will have to be taken into consideration by the op. Tamper proof receptacles for sure. 

Yeah I just am not familiar with them and wondered how efficient they are.


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## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

Subbie.,,

AFAIK i did install 2 so far seems not too bad but really OP should recondersating about sizing the heaters in there.

The control of this fan is somehow little odd to get used to it but it work allright. performace wise it is not too bad what i heard.

But i am little lerry with ceiling fan in daycare you know how the little kids will have funny idea with ceiling fan{s}. belive me i did see it get damged when the kids get little wild :whistling2: 

Merci,Marc


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Or guys like me that are 6'-4", and our fans stick down at about 6'-6". My wife loves it when I run into the Furnace Duct downstairs, or the Conduit feeding the Stairwell lighting.


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## kaosama05 (Feb 6, 2008)

Thanks very much for your input everyone. I was out of town for a death in the family. Thats the reason I'm just getting back to the forum. Thanks again.


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## kaosama05 (Feb 6, 2008)

Just for reference, this room is not for daycare use it is for family only use. Does anyone have some heating and cooling idea's.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

There is the Ductless systems, or you can go with the same type that are used in motel rooms for onwall.


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## kaosama05 (Feb 6, 2008)

Just wanted to give a big thanks to Stubbie. Thanks for the time and effort you put into the diagram. One more thing; how much to you think it might cost to get a pro to do the wiring? I'm pretty sure I can do all the wiring myself but if will only cost me a couple hundred $ over the wiring materials, my lazy self will just let a pro do it, especially because I have to get a permit on this.
Thanks again


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Are you also wanting the sub-panel done and the trenching to the shed and wiring of the shed? Will you be supplying all fixtures?


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## kaosama05 (Feb 6, 2008)

What do you recommend? I'm just wondering if a pro will kill my pockets or will it be better to go to lowes get all the hardware and do everything myself. A few hundred bucks and no headaches is worth it to me, but if getting a pro is gonna cost me crazy money then I'm gonna do the project on my own and muddle threw the permit process and install everything myself. No matter what I will be having a pro run the sub-box from the main box.


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

If you are expecting to only pay an electrician a couple hundred dollars over cost of materials, then you are not going to be able to go that route. Your looking at $1000.00 to $1800.00 plus materials. The trenching and backfill likely will be sub-contracted by the electrician. Depends on if he is a one man show or not.


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