# New Project First Timer on Dry-Wall



## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

Will this is my first time in doing this , My wife's uncle is helping me in doing a 12'x13' with 9' ceiling. I ordered 10'x12' dry wall {x12} I pick up some dry-wall screws with auto stops a small box of screws a dry-wall "T" Square and knife. 
Now for tape is the paper better to use for seams and inside corners? What about mud better to mix or premix ?
Now do I kneed 3 coats of mud and sand between coats?

Need your input pleas , Thank you


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## Bumpr1080 (Jul 5, 2012)

I haven't had as much experience as many of the other guys here by far- but from my working I strongly recommend mesh tape and pre mixed mud. 

For one thing the mesh tape does not require pre-muddying to make it stick and its far easier to use and apply; and more forgiving for novices like us. 

I find that the cost is almost equal for pre mixed and dry mud, and the big buckets can be much more easily sealed up and stored for future use. Make sure you get a nice drywall hawk and a concave ~14" knife for the big spreading. Larger your knife, than usually the less sanding you need to do.

I like to use a damp sponge between coats and I sand at the end. I find the sponge softens the ridges and smooths everything out nicely between coats.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

bote110 said:


> Will this is my first time in doing this , My wife's uncle is helping me in doing a 12'x13' with 9' ceiling. I ordered 10'x12' dry wall {x12} I pick up some dry-wall screws with auto stops a small box of screws a dry-wall "T" Square and knife.
> Now for tape is the paper better to use for seams and inside corners? What about mud better to mix or premix ?
> Now do I kneed 3 coats of mud and sand between coats?
> 
> Need your input pleas , Thank you


Mesh tape yuck! if you use the wrong one you will have a mess on your hands. Best place to get better information is youtube type in drywall Myron Ferguson the Drywall guru.


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## Bumpr1080 (Jul 5, 2012)

Well, I'm sticking with mesh. But YouTube is a great place to learn- there's tons of great videos.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If you use mesh you have to have much more build up and a wider joint to blend it in.
Dry wall finishing always takes at least three coats even if your a "pro".
The key is use thin coats, no sanding needed between the first and second coats, just knock off the high spots with the drywall knife.
The green top premixed will work fine.
Work out of a drywall pan not the bucket.
Add a small amount of water for the last coat to thin it for a smoother finish.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

I use paper tape. Good tools make a difference too. I do my taping with an 8" knife. I use a concave trowel for the second coat, and a flat trowel for the final coat. I use a sanding pole with mesh and I keep a triangle grit sponge with me for small areas. I usually work off a hawk rather than a pan but to each his own.
After sanding I wipe the surfaces down with a damp sponge to get the dust off and to feather any edges I may have missed while sanding. Next I prime. After the primer dries I go over the project with a light held near the wall and mark any imperfections with a pencil and touch-up as needed.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

1. prefill any gaps that are 1/4" and larger with powdered setting compound (20,45,90)
2.apply paper tape with green lid bucket mud(it has an adhesive and your tape will also suck in)with a 4-6" taping knife
3. apply 2nd coat with a 10"knife using a premixed compound (blue lid, red lid, etc.) 
4. apply 3rd coat with same mud as 2nd coat using a 12" knife no thinning is required all comes down to type of mud and personal taste.
5. sand with a sanding sponge and a hand held light shining on your work to see imperfections 

for inside corners prefill anything over 1/4"
apply tape with 3-4"taping knife using green lid mud.
coat one side of the corner with a 4-5" knife using a premix the same with what you used on 2nd/3rd coat
when the first side is dry coat the other side 
sand the same way with a light.

you can use mesh tape but its more prone to cracking.
apply the tape to the joints 
for first coat use a powdered setting compound (20,45,90)
then coat it the same way as i said with second and 3rd coat then sand.
i do not recommend using mesh tape for inside corners.

once everything is sanded i go over the walls with a broom. 
in the top corners i take a dry paint brush to dust.
then finally apply your primer


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

To jump in and offer a question to the pros: do you always use the paper tape on the inner corners?

What about the outer corners? Do you always use the metalic corner piece, or do you sometimes just use paper tape if it is unlikely to be bumped (soffit edge)?

B


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Beepster said:


> To jump in and offer a question to the pros: do you always use the paper tape on the inner corners?
> 
> What about the outer corners? Do you always use the metalic corner piece, or do you sometimes just use paper tape if it is unlikely to be bumped (soffit edge)?
> 
> B


Paper tape for everyting except the outside corners.
Metal corners hold up the best.
Going to be one sloppy mess if you just used tape on an outside corner.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

yup always use paper for inside corners. 
metal corners do hold up well.
the best product for outside corners is no-coat ultra flex 325


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

Use paper tape if the compound container says to. I think you have to use paper for pre-mix. When you're applying the tape, make the compound a little thinner than for the other coats. For corners you can use metal beading that has paper pre-applied. 
I never taped drywall but I'm planning to soon so I did research recently.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

Thanks for all the great info's , My only concern now will be inside corners.
Do you apply a coat of mud on one side then apply the tape fold in half and apply the coat on the other side then the usual 3 coats ?
Should a 10" and a 4" knife be ok to use for my mud?


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

there should be no need to thin your mud when bedding the tape. all premixed compounds say you can tape with it but when you go to the cgc website it will say if its excellent or only good for taping. i recommend using only the green lid for bedding the tape because it has the most adhesive in it and its already pretty soupy. i also dont recommend the metal with paper outside corners. i recommend no-coat or good old metal bead. 

when doing inside corners coat both sides with mud then fold your tape and push it into the corner and then run your knife down squeezing out the mud(not to much) then coat one side of the corner on the second and on the 3rd coat do the other side of the corner. 
you could probably get away with just using a 4" and a 10" knife but you may run into a few issues. bedding the paper tape on your butts and flats will be a pain having to scoop mud apply 2' then scoop again but can be done. i recommend taping with a 6" because you can get 4-5feet with a scoop.
second and third coat you'll have zero issues using a 10" for both.
for inside corners if you bed your tape with a 4" knife you will end up with a ridge at 4inches and when you are coating it with the second coat you can run into problems. so if you bed the tape with a 4 i recommend moving up to a 5-6" for the second or bed the tape with a 3" and coat with a 4"
drywall knifes are cheap. buy a 4,5, and a 6.
oh and inside corners only need to be coated once. all you are really doing is skimming out the thickness of the paper.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

So tape or metal bead for inside corners? The metal bead you screw on with dry-wall screws and apply mud with 3 coats. 
I found in Lows some paper tape with sticky on one side any good?
Will a 5gal bucket of the green lid mud be good for 12'x13' with 9' ceiling room ?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

I would sure love to see how you are going to get a nice crisp 90º corner with mesh tape. And on inside corners how your not going to cut it with your knife. Since you said 9' ceilings and nothing about 54" drywall I don't know what the 12' sheets are for since you are probably going vertical and not a belly band. Also on a vertical seam mesh tape is very weak so in a couple years if your seams start cracking you will know why. Also mesh tape doesn't work well where the wall meets the ceiling either. That's why paper tape has the crease down the middle that you can't get with mesh.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

The paper mesh was for the seams , Trying to find out what is best for inside corners and was planning on going with belly band with the 4x12 my length of my room is 11' 5"


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

OK for inside corners you can use the NO-Coat 325 a little pricey but easy to use or just use regular paper tape, then you can use it on your flats to there is no advantage to mesh tape. You are going to be trying something pretty hard with a belly band. But if that's what you want when you use 1/2" for the top and bottom your belly band should be 3/8" if not you will end up with a big hump. Either way it's hard to tape. If you can take that drywall back and get 54" then you end up with 1 factory seam down the middle. Easy to mud. On the outside corners I like the vinyl bead or you can use metal or the metal covered with paper.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Beepster said:


> To jump in and offer a question to the pros: do you always use the paper tape on the inner corners?
> 
> What about the outer corners? Do you always use the metalic corner piece, or do you sometimes just use paper tape if it is unlikely to be bumped (soffit edge)?
> 
> B


Always paper tape. For out side corners I use products from this company.
http://trim-tex.com/index.php
best of luck


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

bote110 said:


> The paper mesh was for the seams , Trying to find out what is best for inside corners and was planning on going with belly band with the 4x12 my length of my room is 11' 5"


I would go with 54" wide and just have one seam to mud and tape.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

I have no outside corners only insides in my room, Had to cancel the drywall delivery due to snow and bad driveway . Will post pic's of room before applying drywall and after. Have a question thou , When inspector came in he had us put fire proof plastic over the insulation with the paper cover . He said to remove the plastic when we drywall the room because then there will be 2 fire barriers behind the drywall can I leave the ceiling on encase of water leaking from the roof


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

bote110 said:


> I have no outside corners only insides in my room, Had to cancel the drywall delivery due to snow and bad driveway . Will post pic's of room before applying drywall and after. Have a question thou , When inspector came in he had us put fire proof plastic over the insulation with the paper cover . He said to remove the plastic when we drywall the room because then there will be 2 fire barriers behind the drywall can I leave the ceiling on encase of water leaking from the roof


NO want your whole darn ceiling to Collapse on you? having a leak in the ceiling and finding a wet spot early is a good thing. Blocking it and then the weight of the water or mold growth, or a number of things can go wrong fast if you do that.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

Ok thanks!, will remove all plastic then.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

for building code here we need a 6mm vapour barrier between insulation and drywall. i've never heard of a "fire proof plastic" before, kind of doesn't make sense to me.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

princelake said:


> for building code here we need a 6mm vapour barrier between insulation and drywall. i've never heard of a "fire proof plastic" before, kind of doesn't make sense to me.


For the very cold climates you need to have that for the more normal not still getting out of the ice age area's of the world most places say two coats of PVA primer is a good enough vapor retarder.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

princelake said:


> for building code here we need a 6mm vapour barrier between insulation and drywall. i've never heard of a "fire proof plastic" before, kind of doesn't make sense to me.


Yes we were force to have our contractor put it on after he insulated the wall with paper face insulation since we did not have drywall up, he said a fire barrier plastic rated had to be in place until we drywall and remove it before the drywall gets put on. And yes the plastic is 6mil fire retardant had to tape the info on the wall so he can see that it was so we could get a past.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

I bought a New Drywall Jack for $139. free shipping , Could not pass a good deal beside my mud room , I have a whole basement to finish up starting this summer. Just got my delivery of 15 4x12 drywall ultra lites


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## Toller (Jan 2, 2013)

princelake said:


> 1. prefill any gaps that are 1/4" and larger with powdered setting compound (20,45,90)
> 2.apply paper tape with green lid bucket mud(it has an adhesive and your tape will also suck in)with a 4-6" taping knife
> 3. apply 2nd coat with a 10"knife using a premixed compound (blue lid, red lid, etc.)


I am just doing 30' and will probably never drywall again.
Do I have to get two kinds of mud?
I don't want to do it wrong, but don't want to end up with two nearly full buckets either.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Toller said:


> I am just doing 30' and will probably never drywall again.
> Do I have to get two kinds of mud?
> I don't want to do it wrong, but don't want to end up with two nearly full buckets either.


No you can do it all with the green lid. Call your local drywall suppliers see if they carry a product from Trim Tex called Mud Max if they do add the amount they say to your first coat-not to the whole bucket. This will give your first coat a lot of strength. Do not add to the whole bucket because it makes it hard to sand. For your 2nd and 3rd coats add some water to your mud and mix this will make it creamy and a lot easier to work.


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

I just did a full basement with just the green lid and no additives (other than water for thinning). I am not saying the above advice given is incorrect and I would probably use it if I drywalled more than once every five years. One thing that gets overlooked is that DIYers usually just shop at the big box stores and don't seek out the specialty stores.

B


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Beepster said:


> I just did a full basement with just the green lid and no additives (other than water for thinning). I am not saying the above advice given is incorrect and I would probably use it if I drywalled more than once every five years. One thing that gets overlooked is that DIYers usually just shop at the big box stores and don't seek out the specialty stores.
> 
> B


You are right a lot of people just use the green lid, some just use the blue lid and they get away with it. But the thing is your first coat is the most important one it is your fill coat and DIY cuts sometimes leave more than they should for fill. If it is too big the odds for cracking are much greater, if there is any movement. This may not show up for a couple years, if your real lucky maybe never. Point is for about $12 I think it is you can put the odds more in your favor. But no you don't have to use it.


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## Beepster (Oct 19, 2009)

ToolSeeker said:


> Point is for about $12


A five gallon pail of mud IS super cheap, that is for sure.

B


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

buy a small box/bag of sheetrock(easy sand) 20 its about $5-10. 
buy a box of green mud $15 it has adhesive in it for bonding the tape.
then i buy lafarge rapid coat for my 2nd and 3rd because its very smooth, dries fast and very easy to sand. its $15 here.
so $35-40 for mud.
you can totally use the green for everything but the prefill but its soupy, heavy, is more difficult to use for a diyer you'll be covered in it and its harder so sand.
so for the extra $15 i feel its well worth avoiding a headache and lets face it most people hate doing drywall especially diyers so whatever you can do to make life easier then i say do it.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

So the first coat of mud to tape should not be with Green Lid mud? I too was going this rout , My contractor left 2 bags with about 1/4 full of one 45 and other 90 min. dry time could I mix this up to use?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

bote110 said:


> So the first coat of mud to tape should not be with Green Lid mud? I too was going this rout , My contractor left 2 bags with about 1/4 full of one 45 and other 90 min. dry time could I mix this up to use?


Yes A few things to keep in mind. if you use warm water to mix with it speeds up the set time. I guess I should have asked this first are the bags brown or white? If they are brown I would advise against using them because they must be put on smooth as it is non sandable so for a first timer don't try it. If they are the white bags yes you can use them as they are sandable and more forgiving. There are some other things you should know. do not mix it real thin this will weaken it. Once it starts to get stiff in your pan throw it out and mix more do not add more water. Between batches clean all your tools and mud pan, this stuff sets by a chemical reaction so once it starts and you don't clean everything the old stuff in the pan will start the reaction in your new mix.
Hope this helps.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

yup i prefill with sheetrock 20,45,90 will do the trick 
then i use the green to bed the tape so technically i do 4 coats


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

Do you apply a coat of mud on one side then apply the tape fold in half and apply the coat on the other side then the usual 3 coats ?
Should a 10" and a 4" knife be ok to use for my mud?

I use a 4" paint brush to coat both sides at once, use 4" knife for inside corners. prefold all corner tape, so can just grab a piece and go. make sure all gaps are full of mud as shrinks when drying if over 1/4" cracks? run a couple screws into stud before filling, this gives mud something to lock to keep from cracking and falling out. run your knife along good straight side first not too much angle on knife, keep knife edge tight to drywall, an angle will go into any gaps leaving crooked corner. you can usually get by with two coats on inside corners, I always do three. I use a 6" knife for all joints taping, a 15" concave trowel for second and third coats if need to go wider? I feather out with a 12" flat trowel I work with a hawk not a pan, after first bedding tape. I always use paper tape never mesh, never paper on outside corners at all only full metal and I tape those a nail in every nail hole. never sand between coats a damp sponge mop will take down high spots and fill in low spots at same time, never so wet as to wet the drywall paper. after dry and sanding, sweep/wipe all remaining dust off. it's normal to see most joints and mud lines until paint dries fully of first coat of paint


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i've never hear of anybody using a paint brush for any kind of drywall mudding other then dusting.
they make "Q tip" rollers for inside corners but i dont do alot of big job and just use a 3-4" knife.
then i coat one side of the corner with a 1" larger knife. when the corner dries i coat the other side of the corner.
all you really need to accomplish is filling the thickness of the paperand that really only takes 2-3" to skim.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

I've been doing drywall since 1968 and picked up the paintbrush tip from the guy who taught me. it coats both sides at once no going back for other side time= money going in circles takes time making no progress! stick with your3"and 4" knife if you wish as my signature says "just my thoughts"


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i do alot of smaller jobs where theres no point in getting certain tools messy. if i am doing a bigger job i'll use the Q tip roller on my paint pole just dunk it in the mud and roll it in the corner which gives me alot less ladder time and can go much farther then with a knife. i'll try your paint brush trick. will a 3" angled brush do the trick or do i need one of those big nasty wide brushes more less a broom?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

here's only one http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyde-Tools-45820-Corner-Ease-Corner-Roller-Kit-Multi-Purpose-Each/22594773 and a nail in every hole. And if the crack is 1/4" or bigger it needs hot (setting mud, not drying mud) for fill. I also use a hawk and trowel, used knife and pan for years, would not go back. They now say a nail in every hole will pull the corner bead out of line. This is how I have been doing it for years now. I mix up 20 minute easy sand, for someone new I would say 45 or 90 minute. Use this for a fill coat, make it smooth as you can. After it sets sand down any ridges or high spots, it's OK to use a rough sanding screen here because of the next coat will fill sanding marks. Now because you used the hot mud the same day you can go back and tape. Take some mud from your bucket and thin it where it's a little thicker than paint, dip the roller and apply to corner, crease your paper tape down the center line and apply. Then take a 5 or 6" knife and remove access from both sides. Let completely dry then sand or sponge any ridges or high spots. Let me say here that a mistake a lot of newbies make is they leave too much mud on the tape, it's OK to see the tape after you pull the mud off. For the second coat for someone new I recommend doing 1 side at a time and make sure it is dry before doing the other side, so I would not use the roller. This method is also what I use for when the wall meets the ceiling. Hope this helps someone out there. This is just my way there are probably many others.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

Well just got my Dry-Wall Jack delivered and was simple to put together with out no tools . Got my mud pans, 6" and 12" knifes , sanding disk and blocks , Dry-Wall Kicker, Dry-Wall Screw's and Bit's and just got to pick up some tape and mud and should be all set for my project.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

you got a key hole saw for outlets? and good luck! tell us how it goes


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

Can a Dremel be use to cut dry-wall for outlets and light , I do have a 
Dry-Wall Saw


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

yes a dremel can but they dont like drywall dust and will eventually burn out


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## perrytradesman (Oct 25, 2011)

Wow,reading some of the replies if your not a taper maybe would be best not to give advice even with the best intentions. Pre-mix mud or dry powder- ok the mud you have to mix that is in a bag has a particular job it is fast setting mud comes in 20minute 30 45 90 120 its good say on cold wet day or for filling gaps in the rock called back filling and you use for just taping joints it is very hard to sand and is very gritty makes a bad looking finish thats why there is topping compound (pre mixed) the last coat to top joints,nail rows it spreads easy and super easy to sand good for skim coats and puddy coating but overnight dry time do not use for taping it will fail- all purpose joint compound is also pre mixed and you use this for "embedding tape" you can also use it to top joints and you can use it for texture that is why its called all purpose also you can use forced air or fans to dry out the mud- as for tape use the yellow mesh tape on bigger gaps or gaps you can use on any joint but paper will flex and holds back stress cracks better - I like paper tape and i use this most times submerge the paper tape in water no joke it has tiny holes in it and the holes open up more when wet you can see the mud pass thru all the tiny little perforations- 3 coats minimum are need to level out and give a smooth appearance start with either a 6" or 4" broad knife then go wider like 8" 10" knife even 14" on non factory joints- apply mud push in tape hold 1 end up a lil so it wont wrinkle now wipe off almost all the mud -remember it is easier to do light skim coats then to sand - taping is a skilled trade and takes many years of doing it to make all the joints and flaws go away (sorry for the long msg lol)


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i never use the tape with all the little hole in it. it sucks. i only use cgc paper tape. and i've never heard anybody wetting the tape. i've never had any issues with putting dry tape on. you can use any premixed compound for bedding tape but you take a chance getting bubbles. i use only green lid tape for bedding tape.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Prince if you wet the tape the way he says it almost eliminates air bubbles under the tape.


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## Dorado (Feb 7, 2013)

perrytradesman said:


> Wow,reading some of the replies if your not a taper maybe would be best not to give advice...submerge the paper tape in water no joke it has tiny holes in it and the holes open up more when wet


Unless that technique is published in a book or is in the instructions that come with the materials, I'd not do that. The manufacturers of paper tape with holes surely put thought into the proper hole size. Someone claimed that thinning the mud isn't necessary, and now it's claimed that it's good to totally wet the tape. Complete opposites. I suggest taking a book out of the library. That's what I did.


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## brucem609 (Feb 6, 2013)

Well, I am no professional taper but this is what I have done. I have installed and taped probably 500 sheets of drywall. 

There is a product for inside corners called Shur-corner. It keeps a great inside straight vertical corner. It is embedded with aluminum and works great. 1 coat to put it up and then 2 coats to finish -Done.

Outside corners I used to use the metal corner bead. I recently,have moved to the vinyl simply out of ease. Spray glue and its not moving. It also accepts a bump or 2 a little better than the metal corner bead does. In addition I like to use the rounded bullnose on corners that will get a lot of traffic. Also gives the areas a softer feel, paints up nice, and my customers have liked it.

I always start with green lid and finish with the blue lid. I rarely have gaps bigger than 1/4" so filling is not that big of a problem(I am not perfect but I try not to leave big gaps in my drywall)
Just myn2 cents. The pros are way better than me, so .....


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

OK if you ask most pro's about wetting the tape they will say NO. But remember when pro's go in to do a house they have all the tools like mud boxes and bazookas. Usually 1 guy puts it on and another comes along right behind and takes it off. Also they use hot mud on their first and sometimes 2nd coats. Now the DIYer usually does this by himself and he gets a bucket of All Purpose and goes at it. The problem being if he uses the mud right out of the bucket and does not thin it, it becomes thick and hard to pull, and to get smooth under the tape. This can also happen if he gets a little slow, it can start to thicken. If you get high spots under the tape and it dries they are hard to deal with. You really can't sand them down because you will have to sand thru the tape. Now if you wet your tape and pull it between your fingers to get the excess off it won't be much wetter than when you put it over wet mud or you put wet mud on top of it. And it gives you the advantage of being able to get a nice smooth line under your tape.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

All right got some pic's of my project before I start, I'm using my Dry-Wall Jack for a coat rack for now and the plastic that I was told by the inspector that has to be removed before I hang Dry-Wall.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

Ok a couple of questions: 
Lows has "paper tape" that is self stick has anyone tried , is it any good? They also have inside corner bead that's made with paper and metal? 
Should I fill gaps first that are 1/8 inch wide then sand it before laying tape? I have some powder mud {couple of cups} of 45 an 90 set to fill the gap's with


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

bote110 said:


> Ok a couple of questions:
> Lows has "paper tape" that is self stick has anyone tried , is it any good? They also have inside corner bead that's made with paper and metal?
> Should I fill gaps first that are 1/8 inch wide then sand it before laying tape? I have some powder mud {couple of cups} of 45 an 90 set to fill the gap's with


Have never seen self stick paper tape don't see how it could work paper tape has to have mud under it and it wouldn't be possible. Also have seen the paper and metal corner bead but only for outside corners. And no you don't have to fill or sand gaps that small your base coat will fill them


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Have never seen self stick paper tape don't see how it could work paper tape has to have mud under it and it wouldn't be possible. Also have seen the paper and metal corner bead but only for outside corners. And no you don't have to fill or sand gaps that small your base coat will fill them



http://www.walltools.com/hyde-joint-tape-perforated.html
It's like this made of paper you peel and stick. Don't know the brand name that Lows sells it's not on there web page.


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## johnmmm (May 14, 2010)

can someone help me?


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

john123123 said:


> can someone help me?


Yes you can hang it vertical.


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