# replacing 12 yr. old ELK Prestique shingles



## bulldog50 (Apr 11, 2008)

After a leak last October we discovered our roofing contractor in 1995 installed 40yr. Elk Prestique High Definition shingles over 2 layers of old shingles. The Elks have deteriorated rapidly and have maybe 3-5 years left. We are past the time limits to sue and must replace the roofing. The cost will delay our retirement but we plan to stay in the house about 8-10 more years anyway.

New contractor recommends replacing with Cetainteed Landmark brand shingle. Which level of Landmark shingle would be equivalent? 

I checked on line and see Elk is now owned by GAF-ELK. I'd like the new shingles to match my garage and studio [seperate buildings nearby]. Will the GAF-ELK shingles today be as good/better/worse than the Landmark? [color and quality].


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

The 3 variations of the Certainteed Landmark shingle are;

Landmark, 245 # per square shingle with a 30 year warranty

Landmark Plus, 265 # per square shingle with a 40 year warranty

Landmark Premium, 300 # per square shingle with a 50 year warranty

The old version of the Elk Prestique would now be classified in the 50 year warrabty category.

I would be more worried about why the existing shingles only lasted 13 years with an anticipated additional life expectancy of another 3-4 years.

I would suspect theat the entire balanced ventilation system has not been properly designed to increase the longetivity of the shingle.

I think you should consider beefing up the ventilation, both Intake and Exhaust and go with the 30 year version of the Landmarks shingles.

Ed


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## bulldog50 (Apr 11, 2008)

The repair contracor last fall is the one who felt there was only 3-5 yrs life left. He said the 2 layers of old shingles underneath were part of the problem; they trapped heat on the bottom of the shingle and were soft (potentially damp). 

We have a finished attic and the roof is a 'Cape Cod' style so the first 5' up from the gutter creates the ceiling on the inside of the floor below.[the interior side of exterior wall is vertical up to 5' above the floor and slopes up to 8' high about 48" into the room, then there's a 1' overhang]. 

Under the 1x6 wood deck we have 1" airspace baffles, 3 1/2" craft faced batt insulation, 1/2" rigid insul covered and 3/4" knotty pine wood paneling. There are two 8" roof vents and windows at each end. 

If we put powered or wind driven vents on top would they help? The house has vinyl siding and perforated soffits but we can't see inside the overhangs.

Is there a quality difference between the manufacturer's Cetainteed 'Landmark' vs. GAF/ELK Timberline Prestique?


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

bulldog50 said:


> We have a finished attic and the roof is a 'Cape Cod' style so the first 5' up from the gutter creates the ceiling on the inside of the floor below.[the interior side of exterior wall is vertical up to 5' above the floor and slopes up to 8' high about 48" into the room, then there's a 1' overhang].
> 
> Under the 1x6 wood deck we have 1" airspace baffles, 3 1/2" craft faced batt insulation, 1/2" rigid insul covered and 3/4" knotty pine wood paneling.
> 
> ...


1. Definitely NOT enough, plus they are not venting each and every one of the individual rafter bays in the vaulted/cathedral ceiling, which will certainly be necessarry. 

The ONLY way to properly ventilate a Cape Cod, is by using a Continuous Frsh Air Intake Vent, either under the soffits or by using an under the shingle vent, such as the Smart Vent.

You also need the entire Ridge Line to be vetilated, which would balance the air flowage.

2. PAV's would only be able to pull air through the individual 1 or 2 rafter bays that they are located over. The reality would wind up being that the PAV would pull air from sources of air leakage in the building envelope, which would mean that it would be removing your conditioned air from the living quarters. Also, they are VERY energy "Inefficient", by using more power than they would save in terms of cost.

3. You need to verify that ALL of the wood soffit material has been cut out and removed for them to provide any functional air flow, plus ensure that all of the perforations are not blocked by insulation or dust and cob-web or other particle debris. I usually find, by using a pointy Scratch Awl, inserting it through several or many of the perforations in various locations, that the wood has rarely been removed prior to installing the vented soffit panels.

4. Most roofers are taking a cautious approach to recommending the GAF/Elk shingles so soon after the merger, with some reports of visibly more frail products being delivered and too many fiberglass slivers while working with them. I would let someone else test drive the new hybrid product lines from them and go with a more proven and unchanged Landmark shingle from Certainteed or the Heritage line from Tamko. Both have been around successfully for a lengthy period of time and have proven track records.

Ed


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## the roofing god (Aug 2, 2007)

The Problem Was Going Over 2 Layers To Begin With,i Would Strip It,put In Balanced Ventilation,proper Ice And Water Shield With Flashing,then I Personally Feel The Gaf/elk Is The Superior Product,and Much Better Looking With The High Definition Than The Other Lines,certainteed Or Other


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