# How to lube a table saw fence?



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

I've got two older Delta table saws, and the fence on both of them is pretty sticky when moving it across the track.

i've cleaned the track and keep it free of sawdust etc, but it sure feels like it needs some help to slide more smoothly.

What would be the best lubricant to use, if anything?


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Are you talking about the 3/4 tracks in the table for the miter fence?
Aluminum table or cast iron?
Any lube is going to end up getting on the wood.


----------



## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

Wax maybe. Works well for metal on metal a lot of times.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

joecaption said:


> Are you talking about the 3/4 tracks in the table for the miter fence?
> Aluminum table or cast iron?
> Any lube is going to end up getting on the wood.


Sorry I wasn't clear. 

I'm referring to the "track" that the fence rides on, from left to right as you set the width of the cut.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Clean the rails good and a apply a coat of paste wax(Like Johnsons floor wax) using a 0000 steel wool pad to apply the wax..Worked well for me on tables and rails for 14 years of owning a commercial cabinet shop.Apply wax with wool.Wait 15 minutes then buff with soft cloth.


----------



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

You don't want to lube it. Any lube other than the paste wax described, will just collect the sawdust and clog up more.
Perhaps the problem is how you are moving the fence. You don't move the fence by pushing it in the middle. Move it by pushing it on the end where you lock it down.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Before you wax it, 'Polish' the slot and slide with 000 steel wool. If you have any nicks you will find pieces of steel wool stuck to them. 

Also, make sure your slide is straight. If it starts to bind as it's almost all the way end, good chance it might be slightly bent. If it is, you will also have wear spots. 

Only use wax, do not use oil. It attracts dirt.


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Ooppss....missed the later info

Look up the model on the internet and see if there is an alignment procedure for it.


----------



## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

If you have a good table saw, the top needs to be waxed anyway. Otherwise it will rust.


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Thanks all, 

I think I have on hand every household lubricant, polish and cleaner known to man, except paste wax. 

I'll have to go out and buy some and give it a try in the next few days. Might as well wax the top of the tables, too.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I always use Johnsons paste wax on all my tables ,miter slots and fences.There are more expensive products available but this has worked for me for 40 years which of 14 I owned a cabinet shop.It holds up better than the more expensive products made for this purpose and can still be found at some grocery stores,Wal Marts amd famr stores.Also grab a sleeve of 0000 steel wool to apply it with.This will take off any surface rust or dribbles of things that may be in the way.
Also works great on router bases to keep them sliding smooth and jointer fences for a smooth glide.
I have never had any issues with the wood picking up any residue and affecting any finishes once it's buffed out.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Car wax will also work.


----------



## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

ZZZZZ said:


> Sorry I wasn't clear.
> 
> I'm referring to the "track" that the fence rides on, from left to right as you set the width of the cut.


i use T-9 on all my bed's and fences, i have the delta and spray on the rail and it slides very well, you can get it at sear's and on line , works for me


----------



## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I also use the Johnsons paste wax. Read the label if you use a car wax. Newer formulas may contain silicone and get into the pores of your wood.


----------



## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

Yup. Ditto yet again on the Johnson's paste wax. Probably other brands work fine as well. I use it on the table saw fence, miter slots and just the whole table itself. It doesn't take that much, but the difference was amazing the first time I tried it. And of course, over time you need to re-apply, possibly cleaning first.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Maybe I'm reading it wrong but I think he's talking about the rails and the wood shouldn't get get anything from the rails.


----------



## del schisler (Aug 22, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> Maybe I'm reading it wrong but I think he's talking about the rails and the wood shouldn't get get anything from the rails.


your are reading the post correct, i don't use wax on my bed's, if you don't sand your wood real good , the finish could not go on good where the wax is it wouldn't adhear to that spot ?, i use T-9 on all my beds and never any rust any where, i am in south fla also


----------



## ZZZZZ (Oct 1, 2014)

Yes, sorry about the incorrect terminology, I was referring to the *rails *on top of the table saw, at the front and back. The fence rides on the rails as it moves left to right.

In terms of trains, track and rail are pretty much used interchangeably.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I have a Shop Fox fence--it has nylon bushings that help it glide---see if yours is supposed to have something like that---


----------

