# Q:Temp support to replace beam and posts on deck



## dougq (Jul 28, 2008)

Hi Everyone: My deck is 12' x 25'. The 25' side being connected to the house.
It is built on 16" joists, and the deck covering is 2 x 6, with a wood railing. All wood is fir or hemlock. The joists are 2 x 8's.
The far side beam is 3 sandwiched 2 x 10" with 3 posts, one at each end and one a bit off center at 12'.
The beam is effectively in 2 pieces, and a butt joint on the middle post.
The posts are supported on cement columns.
One end post and the center post are showing rot, as well as the beam where it contacts the posts.
The joists protrude past the beam by about 5" with an end cap 2 x 10. 
I do not see any rot on the joists.
My main concern is how best to support it while I replace the beam and posts, and how best to cut the toe-nailing from the joists.

Re: temporary beam: I had thought I would use 2 - 2x4's(real dimension) just past the beam and maybe a small overlap on the end cap 2 x 10.
Probably about 8 - 10 feet in length with 4 temporary posts. I also thought about using the same 2 - 2 x 4's for the posts.
If I remove all the weight from the deck, will that be strong enough??
My other option for the posts is to pick up some used teleposts or jacking posts.
I can rent them, but as I work slowly, the rental might run to $200.

Where the posts are rotted, the post and beam has been compressed about an inch.
I estimate I would need about an inch working space above normal height to replace the bean.
Is that adequate??
When I am jacking up the deck will I need to do it all at once, or can I jack at each post a little at a time, say no more than one inch at a time?

I am also not sure of the best way to remove the toe-nailing from the joists to the beam.
I could try to cut the nails with a reciprocating saw, but I suspect I would inevitably damage the underside of the joists in the process.
I also thought about cutting the old beam up while still in place, that seems like too much work.
 My best idea(to me) is to cut a "V" under the joists in the beam and then remove the leftovers once the beam is removed.

Any thoughts or ideas appreciated.
dougq


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

we come across this quiet a few times, The proper way to support the deck is to build a temporary wall under the existing floor joists two feet back from the end. install a 2x4 under the deck joists, another on the patio. then measure or stand the 2x up onto the bottom plate and mark it along side the bottom of the top plate that you tacked to the floor joists and add what ever you need to bring the deck up. you don't have to install a stud under every joist you can go every other joist. take a saw-zal with a 12" bi-metal blade an cut the nails between the joist and the girder. remove the girder and posts, then push the cut ends of the nails with a hammer and a nail set, just enough so you can pull the heads with a hammer or flat bar. Oh Most important, Temporary nail all studs to the top and bottom of the plates. BOB


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## dougq (Jul 28, 2008)

Thanks Buletbob. 
That all sounds reasonable, and easier than what I had in mind.
Questions:
- there is no patio underneath, just sloping rough ground.
The slope is parallel with the house, maybe 2' differential from one end
to the other.
Should I level a spot for each stud?
The slope is gradual, I could just run the bottom plate up the slope and
put a stop for every stud?

- From what you say I am basically jacking up each stud as I install it?

- The studs are just knocked into place, no need to jack up the joist?

Thanks again.

Doug Q


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

I would flatten an area out where the studs are going to be laying. install a 2x4 on the ground. and have your studs rest on the top of that when you bang them over. Before you remove the girder and posts make sure you have that temp wall braced with a diagonal 2x4 nailed from to to bottom so the wall will not kick out. BOB


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## dougq (Jul 28, 2008)

Thanks Bob: I shall follow your advise.
Dougq


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## dougq (Jul 28, 2008)

BoB: I am almost ready to start, and have a couple more questions.
Do I cut all the joyce toenailing before I knock in any of the temp support studs? I had thought I would do about 1/2 at a time?
The beam is effectively in 2 parts.
Do you knock in the support studs one at a time or do several together to avoid uneven weight distribution?

If i try to give the temp support wall about one inch above finished height of new beam and posts, is that sufficient clearance to work or should it be higher?

Thanks again.

Doug


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

do the whole wall all at the same time. you just have to bang the studs in tight enough to get the weight off the girder. about 1/2" and allow for compression of the bottom plate into the soil.
wall goes up first and make sure it is braced so there is not going to be any movement. Diagonal bracing.


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## dougq (Jul 28, 2008)

Bob: I almost have the temporary support in place, I said I work slow. ;-)
Question, I was cutting the 2x10 beam members, and noticed one of them has a bow.
It is about 3/8 of an inch from end to end.
If I put it in as is the joists will all rest on just that one beam member, although of course it will be firmly attached to the other 2.
Should I just leave it that way or trim it be at the same level as the others?
As I am using treated lumber I am not sure I want to trim/straighten it?

Thanks

Doug


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

dougq said:


> Bob: I almost have the temporary support in place, I said I work slow. ;-)
> Question, I was cutting the 2x10 beam members, and noticed one of them has a bow.
> It is about 3/8 of an inch from end to end.
> If I put it in as is the joists will all rest on just that one beam member, although of course it will be firmly attached to the other 2.
> ...


That's fine we always come across this problem now and then. just make sure your splices fall above a post. now for the bow. cut to length and start at one end and nail a block of scrap wood to the opposite end to hold it in line why'll your down at the other end. Start by face nailing the end flush with the top pf the one you are nailing this into. 2x10 I nail 2" from the end with a vertical row of 4 nails then 2" over vertical row of three nails. this is how I do it, then every 12" a row of 4 nails when you reach the point where the beam is just starting to lift above the back beam, your going to toe nail 1 nail at the top back edge of this beam down into the beam behind until it is flush. then just continue. if the nails don't pull it flush then use a bar clamp , then face nail. GOOD LUCK BOB>


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## dougq (Jul 28, 2008)

Bob: The replacement is complete.
I have a few odds and ends to finish, one joyce has some rot.

Thanks very much for your experienced advice.

Doug Q


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

dougq said:


> Bob: The replacement is complete.
> I have a few odds and ends to finish, one joyce has some rot.
> 
> Thanks very much for your experienced advice.
> ...


glade things worked out for you . And you welcome!


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