# New pool pump trips breaker?! New home owner needs advice.



## Speedy Petey (Feb 1, 2004)

Who installed the pump? Didn't they check it before they left?


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

It was just a plumbing contractor who was sent by the home warranty people to replace the pump and filter. I'm afraid, though, that any electrical issues might not be covered under a home warranty.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

What are you reading for Volts on the outlet between Hot & Neutral when you check it with a Volt Meter? When the pump fired up, did you get any magic smoke?


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

I was planning on purchasing a multimeter tomorrow on my lunch break. I will get that answer to you soon. Thanks for replying.

No magic smoke though!

Does anyone else have their 2 cents to spare?


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

Was the pump primed prior to starting/testing? I've seen those pumps lock up in 2-3 seconds of running with no water. Either that or the pump is wired for 240 and getting 120 or vice versa. Since you haven't seen the magic, hopefully that's not the case. I just did a quick search and the only motors they have that are straight 120 are fractional HP, all the 1HP's are dual voltage. Check to make sure it's wired correctly.


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

The model is the Power Flo Matrix SP1592:

http://www.haywardnet.com/aboveground/products/displayProd.cfm?ProductID=121

The site says its 115v 1hp. Am I reading something wrong? As for priming, I believe all that is needed is for the strainer basket on the pump to be filled with water. It was full this entire time while trying to get it working. I did notice these guys crossthreaded the strainer cover, but I fixed that last night. Everything that I can see is properly setup.

Are you saying there might be a switch on it that has a setting for 220 / 110 like on the back of a computer's power supply?

I'll get the voltage reading later today.


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

I clicked on that link you provided and the 1592 is the only one that doesn't have 115 as the voltage. Look on the motor data plate and it'll say 115 or 115/230. Did the cord come already hooked up or did the plumber put it on?


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

I can confidently state that the label on the motor says 115v (No 115/230 or anything). Is there some place else I need to look on that label? They installed it all while I was at work. I did not witness any of the install process, sorry.


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## wirenut1110 (Apr 26, 2008)

If it says 115 then that's what it is. The owner's manual say's
*Motor Hums, But Does NOT Start – Check For:*
1. Centrifugal switch stuck in OPEN position.​2. Binding of motor shaft.

As has been said, you need to check the voltage at the receptacle. Look also, where the cord was connected to the pump, they could've done something in there. There's not alot of room in there so it could just be something as simple as a wire off or something.


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

I will speak to the plumbers about those two things, thanks. Would it be safe to assume that if, say, one of those two things is the cause, then (as a side effect) the breaker would trip? I would expect the motor to just shut itself off, then attempt to turn back on similar to the old motor. Thanks for helping me out wirenut.

Do you think it would be a good test to try the pump on a good extension cord to a known good working outlet? Just to confirm that the pump itself is setup properly?

OK, I bought a multimeter....I'll get the readings in a few hours when I get home. Thanks guys.


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

Ok the Voltage at the outlet reads a steady 119.5V. I have taken some pictures to help you visualize the area. The wire is 12/2 Romex with Ground. 

Its the Grey wire in this image: (Coming out the sub panel in the back corner of the garage.)











It leads up and out the back of the grarage.











down through the GFCI outlet + Switch:










Underground to the pool. (You can get a good idea of the short distance it travels.)





























What do you think guys? Is that 12/2 wire enough? Is the 15A breaker enough or possibly "wearing out"? Or could the pump just be installed / wired wrong? I dont know where to turn next.

Also, i apologize, the pump is NOT model 1592. DOH

Thanks!


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## BillyD (Mar 15, 2008)

Try the good extension cord would be the fastest and simple way. If it still doesn't work call the installer back out. If they refuse call the BBB and file a complaint.


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## BillyD (Mar 15, 2008)

Better yet plug something else in the outlet and see if it works.


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

I just did both. I plugged a 1875W hair dryer into the outlet and it worked fine. I then hooked the pump up to a nice extension that ran to a plug that runs off the house circuit. The pump hummed (for a few seconds longer this time!) and tripped the breaker in my house basement. I guess all signs point to the pump either being installed wrong or defective??? 

Can someone just confirm for me that 12/2 romex through its own dedicated 15A breaker is sufficient for the pump? I guess I just want to know that the electric part of all of this is not to blame.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

If it is the only thing on the circuit, the 15amp would be safe. Since it is tripping the breaker, then the breaker is working correctly because of the circuit overload caused by the pump not spinning. If the breaker was defective, plugging in the Hair Dryer would of been enough to trip it. I would personally call a pool guy other then the company that installed it, and have their opinion. If they say that the pump is defective, call the other company and have it replaced at their cost.

Only other way to tell if it spins, is unhook the hoses, and pull the strainer basket to see if the impeller spins at all.


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

Thanks for the reply. I feel better knowing that it is most likely not the electrical that is the problem.


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## micromind (Mar 9, 2008)

A couple of things come to mind here.

1) How far is the pump from the main house panel? If it's less than 100 feet, and the hair dryer ran at about the same speed it does in the house, then very likely the pump is getting enough power. A 15 amp breaker is a bit light for a 1HP motor, a 20 would be better. If the 15 holds for more than 5 seconds, then it's OK as is. 

2) The shaft is bound up. This can be a number of things, not the smallest of which is running the pump without any water in it and seizing the shaft seal. It usually takes less than 5 seconds. There could be a foreign object in the impeller, or the motor. This might void the warranty, but if you can take the end cap of the motor off (likely a couple of screws in the end) you'll see the end of the shaft inside. It should turn easily. 

3) It could be wired wrong. The wiring connections are likely inside the end cap of the motor. The black wire from the cord needs to go to terminal #1, along with a yellow wire with a black stripe that disappears into the motor. Terminal #4 needs to have a red wire that disappears into the motor on it, nothing else. If the only switch in this installation is the one on the 4X4 post, and the one shown on the nameplate doesn't exist (it would if this were a hot tub), we'll wire it like it's always on. The blue and yellow wires need to go to terminal #5. Insure that the solid yellow is on terminal #5, and the yellow with a black stripe is on terminal #1. The white wire from the cord goes to terminal #6 along with a white wire that disappears into the motor. The green wire from the cord goes to a green screw somewhere on the motor frame. Look around inside for loose wires, and look at the terminal strip, it could be cracked. 

4) If all the above are OK, about the only other things I can think of are a bad start capacitor, a bad start switch (inside of the motor), or shorted windings, all of which should be covered under warranty. 

Rob


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

The pump is run off approx 30-35 feet of wire. Definitely less than 100 feet. Way less. The hair dryer worked fine. I had it on the fastest speed and the hottest temperature. It sounded like it was running at full blast for a good minute.

I am going to have the pump looked at again by these guys. I really think it was just not installed correctly. 

I did check out the wiring and it looks like it was all factory installed. The screws holding the end cap on looked like they were never touched. I still have yet to verify if the shaft spins freely. I will try to figure that out later.

For what its worth, I had a dream that the pump and everything was working and my pool water was crystal clear. I hope that is sign of things to come.


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## BillyD (Mar 15, 2008)

Just because it is new from the factory does not mean it can not be defective.


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## KenR7A (Jun 17, 2008)

Hey guys, I found out what the problem is. Its the pump. When the strainer basket is full of water, it weighs down the shaft and impeller. This added weight does not allow it to turn freely. If you hold up the strainer, and flick the switch, the pump starts up just fine.

The contractor is going to buy a new pump and install it tomorrow! :icon_rolleyes:


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## parm54 (Jan 5, 2011)

the pool people had to install 3 diff haywood pumps for my new aboveground pool before they got one that would not bind (motor binds & will not start) this was in 1st 3 weeks after installation. the flow max pump lasted 3 years of use. then it started tripping gfci. pool co came out & said motor needed to be replaced, they put new flow max & w/in day it started tripping gfci again. no certain time it trips gfci, sometimes immediately after start up or after it goes off i can see that gfci was tripped. pump hardwired into freeze protect timer. sometimes it trips at start up. I feel pretty certain that its the new pump causing prob. gfci didnt trip w/ hairdryer plugged in or string of light plugged in. 
sound like its the new pump causing the proB?

the filter has been worked on 4x, inline chlorinator broke after 2 yrs of use,now have had to replace pool pump all after only 3 summer seasons of use,the pressure guage on filter seems to be broken now (after he installed new pump) pool not worth the trouple or expense


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

parm54 said:


> the pool people had to install 3 diff haywood pumps for my new aboveground pool before they got one that would not bind (motor binds & will not start) this was in 1st 3 weeks after installation. the flow max pump lasted 3 years of use. then it started tripping gfci. pool co came out & said motor needed to be replaced, they put new flow max & w/in day it started tripping gfci again. no certain time it trips gfci, sometimes immediately after start up or after it goes off i can see that gfci was tripped. pump hardwired into freeze protect timer. sometimes it trips at start up. I feel pretty certain that its the new pump causing prob. gfci didnt trip w/ hairdryer plugged in or string of light plugged in.
> sound like its the new pump causing the proB?
> 
> the filter has been worked on 4x, inline chlorinator broke after 2 yrs of use,now have had to replace pool pump all after only 3 summer seasons of use,the pressure guage on filter seems to be broken now (after he installed new pump) pool not worth the trouple or expense


You are posting on a thread that is 2 1/2 years old. Suggest you start a new thread.


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