# Washing Machine Supply Valve Leak.



## illicitx (Jan 25, 2012)

Dear All,

I have a slow drip occurring from my washing machine supply valve.










It is the area noted in number 3. 

Any advice on what I can do to get it from dripping slowly?

Basically, I sent my old washer away and was awaiting delivery on my new washer and noticed water dripping from the source (supply valve). 

Any help would be much appreciated!


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

I had a single handle shutoff that leaked from the handle. After I replaced it, I took the old one apart.

Check my post out it may help you with disassembly, I have many photos:http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/leaking-oatey-washing-machine-shutoff-valve-122780/

Good luck.


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## illicitx (Jan 25, 2012)

hammerlane said:


> I had a single handle shutoff that leaked from the handle. After I replaced it, I took the old one apart.
> 
> Check my post out it may help you with disassembly, I have many photos:http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/leaking-oatey-washing-machine-shutoff-valve-122780/
> 
> Good luck.


Just to confirm, the entire handle needs replacement to fix the leak?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Remove the handle and see if there's not a packing nut that can be tightened up slightly.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

as joe said remove handle to see if packing needs tighten..if not replace valve be sure to hold bottom #5 while removing and reinstalling...:yes:


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Do people here just turn the packing nut, or do you attempt to hold the faucet stable with another wrench while tightening the packing nut to prevent the faucet from turning also?


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

handy man88 said:


> Do people here just turn the packing nut, or do you attempt to hold the faucet stable with another wrench while tightening the packing nut to prevent the faucet from turning also?


 should not matter on packing nut..i..:yes:


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

ben's plumbing said:


> should not matter on packing nut..i..:yes:


Even if there's a little resistance on the packing nut, that will cause the faucet, and thus the supply tubing, to twist.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

handy man88 said:


> Even if there's a little resistance on the packing nut, that will cause the faucet, and thus the supply tubing, to twist.


 no alittle resistance on packing nut will not turn faucet...


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## Zanfirico (Dec 31, 2011)

There may be a hex fitting under the handle (packing nut), and if you turn it with a small amount of pressure, it should either turn a bit, or not. Be sure to use a wrench that fits, not a pair of pliers. A wrench will let you feel the turning easily without over turning it, plier may just damage the fitting. 

But anther question is, if it's a slow drip, do you need to replace the whole valve, or when you hook up the new appliance, will you not have to worry about it as long as the new supply line seals well? This may not be the best practice, but if it is truly a slow drip, I would leave it alone - assuming you can't make the packing any tighter.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Zanfirico said:


> There may be a hex fitting under the handle (packing nut), and if you turn it with a small amount of pressure, it should either turn a bit, or not. Be sure to use a wrench that fits, not a pair of pliers. A wrench will let you feel the turning easily without over turning it, plier may just damage the fitting.
> 
> But anther question is, if it's a slow drip, do you need to replace the whole valve, or when you hook up the new appliance, will you not have to worry about it as long as the new supply line seals well? This may not be the best practice, but if it is truly a slow drip, I would leave it alone - assuming you can't make the packing any tighter.


Tightening down the packing nut will also make the valve harder to turn.

Do people tighten the packing nut with the valve on or off, or does it not matter?


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

There is no packing nut under the handle. Here is one taken apart. 

Only leak sources would be the white plastic seat under the hose adaptor or the O-ring on the 1/2" MIP threaded stem.

The hose adaptor comes off the valve body with a hex head wrench.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

There's probably a seal inside of the stem.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

handy man88 said:


> There's probably a seal inside of the stem.


I took the valve assembly fully apart. Below are the photos:

Parts for reference:
A: valve body
B: ball valve
C: white plastic seat(one in front of and behind ball valve)
D: hose adaptor
E: we'll call this ball stem

To get to the washers on the ball stem you have to:
-remove the hose adaptor(D), 
-remove the front white plastic seat(C)
-then align the ball valve(B) in the proper orientation with the keyway to pop the ball valve out
-then you can remove the ball stem to replace washers.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

illicitx said:


> Dear All,
> 
> I have a slow drip occurring from my washing machine supply valve.
> 
> ...


SO for your problem it may be just a matter of tightening the hose adaptor with a hex head wrench to more fully compress the white plastic seat shown in the above photos. Or you may have to take the hose adaptor off and replace the white plastic seat.

Have your remedied this problem yet?


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

hammerlane said:


> I took the valve assembly fully apart. Below are the photos:
> 
> Parts for reference:
> A: valve body
> ...


Yes, that means that there are 3 potential leak points..not two.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

handy man88 said:


> Yes, that means that there are 3 potential leak points..not two.


handyman do you mean 3 potential leaks points overall or 3 potential leak points for the original poster?

The original poster said his leak is at #3. look at his first post and look at #3 on his photo. If his leak is at #3, then his leak is coming out the male hose adaptor. Which means the white plastic seat is bad or not seated properly.

If the stem valve o-rings were bad, his leak would be coming out from under the handle.

If the o-ring at the top of the 1/2 MIP threaded stem was bad, the leak would be directly below this o-ring shown at point #5 in the first photo.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

hammerlane said:


> handyman do you mean 3 potential leaks points overall or 3 potential leak points for the original poster?
> 
> The original poster said his leak is at #3. look at his first post and look at #3 on his photo. If his leak is at #3, then his leak is coming out the male hose adaptor. Which means the white plastic seat is bad or not seated properly.
> 
> ...


I was just responding to one of your original posts where you identified only 2 potential leak points and I included another one.

_"Only leak sources would be the white plastic seat under the hose [COLOR=blue !important][COLOR=blue !important]adaptor[/COLOR][/COLOR] or the O-ring on the 1/2" MIP threaded stem."
_​


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Yeah you're right. 

From my post #12 I only said the o-ring at the base of the threaded stem or the white plastic seat. 

That was before I dissambled the ball stem and found the o-rings on it


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

hammerlane said:


> Yeah you're right.
> 
> From my post #12 I only said the o-ring at the base of the threaded stem or the white plastic seat.
> 
> That was before I dissambled the ball stem and found the o-rings on it


Not to pat myself on my back, but I knew there would be a seal there because the stem is a moving/rotating part.


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## hammerlane (Oct 6, 2011)

Like a little puzzle trying to get it all taken apart.


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