# pantyhose calcium chloride and Ice Dams



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Is this a joke?
Ice dams are caused from lack of insulation casing a heating lose through the ceiling.
You need to air seal the attic (seal up any holes where plumbing, lighting fixtures and wires were run) and add insulation.
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table

There also needs to have been Storm and Ice Shield added at least 4' from the bottom edge of the roon.

Soffit vents and ridge vent will also be very important to get rid of the hot moist air in the attic.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

sannitig said:


> Hey all, I recently have ice dams built up and I want to fix them temporarily...
> 
> I read that filling pantyhose legs with calcium chloride and putting them on the roof will get rid of them.
> 
> ...


I've heard of this but never seen it. Sounds to me like you're just throwing ice melt up there- put them above the ice dams


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## sannitig (Jan 15, 2012)

Yes that's all good but I'm pretty sure doing all that while there is a foot of snow in the backyard would be very difficult. (I obviously waited too long.)

I had my eves and soffits done during the summer and they put in those styrofoam air channel things. I'm going to do blow-in in the spring but RIGHT NOW there seems to be ice dams and I want to temporarily remedy it.

do these pantyhose go at the high part of each run or at the end of each run where the downspout is?

or does it really matter?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why wait, insulate now and not have rotted roof sheathing and water running down the inside walls.
Insulating has nothing to do with what's going on outside as far as temperture or snow.


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

I read that you fill the stockings with the rock salt and lay the whole shebang inside the full length of the gutters. But since the salt dissolves quickly, you have to keep refilling (and replacing) the stockings. Sounds like a lot of work.... up on a ladder.... in the winter.

By the time you do all that, you'd be spending more time than if you follow joe caption's advice. 

When I started sealing my attic, it was 12ºF outside. But since there was plenty of heat escaping up into my attic before sealing it, it didn't really matter. 

You can seal and insulate your attic right now. I just did my mom's attics and it was freezing up there, but wear gloves and warm clothes and you'll be fine. 

Next spring or summer, when your attic reaches ungodly high temperatures, you'll be glad you finished the job in the winter.

JMO FWIW


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

Before you try the calcium chloride/pantyhose method investigate how salt may affect your gutters especially if they are aluminum. Salt can be corrosive to metals.
I agree with the previous posters. Insulate now. If it is just a matter of blowing in insulation, that should not be too much of a problem. Much better than replacing sheathing and shingles on a cold snowy day.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

"Calcium Chloride" isn't quite, the same as "Sodium Chloride" (Salt).


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

rossfingal said:


> "Calcium Chloride" isn't quite, the same as "Sodium Chloride" (Salt).


Oh...Explain


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Different names - different chemical composition.
You don't want to use Sodium Chloride (Salt) to melt ice on concrete -
concrete and salt don't mix that well.
Use "Ice Melt".
If you have a cement truck, to do a pour - and the driver is going to add
"Chloride" -
They're not adding Sodium Chloride.


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

I referred to calcium chloride because the OP asked about using that salt. I am more concerned about the effect of salt on his gutters (if metal and if metal, then likely aluminum) than on concrete. Salt is corrosive to most metals. I don't think we have to be concerned with whether it is sodium chorlide (table salt), calcium chloride, potassium chloride or any other salt.
My point being that the OP's idea is a "bandaid" solution which I am sure he is aware of. He is free to do as he pleases but the advice about correcting the underlying cause of ice dams is the advice I would follow.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

This is a first I have heard of it.

I wonder what the wife says when she goes to her underwear drawer???


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## ktkelly (Apr 7, 2007)

Windows on Wash said:


> I wonder what the wife says when she goes to her underwear drawer???





*"What the hell kind of perverted thing are you into now?"*


Comes to mind.... :laughing:


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

sannitig said:


> Hey all, I recently have ice dams built up and I want to fix them temporarily...
> 
> I read that filling pantyhose legs with calcium chloride and putting them on the roof will get rid of them.
> 
> ...


 

What your trying to do is create a channel for the melt water to run to the gutter, so do two of them about a third of the way in from the ends of the roof,be a good idea to run a heat cable in the gutter and downspout also.


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## creeper (Mar 11, 2011)

Windows on Wash said:


> This is a first I have heard of it.
> 
> I wonder what the wife says when she goes to her underwear drawer???


She won't care. Women stopped wearing those stupid things ages ago


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Canarywood1 said:


> What your trying to do is create a channel for the melt water to run to the gutter, so do two of them about a third of the way in from the ends of the roof,be a good idea to run a heat cable in the gutter and downspout also.


:yes: Those that did are glad they gave the water an exit and those that didn't wish they had *.*

A structure can be insulated to the hilt and save on heating bills and that's a good thing . And then comes the vent recommendation and that's fine by me if that toots your horn . 

Well, at some point the outdoor ambient temp. is going to go above 32°F - 0°C . It always has and I hope it continues until the next ice age . So now let's look at what will surely happen if 36°F , or possibly higher , degree air is admitted to the attic, channeled or not, and there is several inches of insulating snow on the roof . 

Let's step it up a notch with the very possibility of a layer of freezing rain that preceded the snow . Ever see water trapped under a thin layer of ice that covers the full roof slope? It isn't a good feeling when the head pressure forces it to exit at the lowest available point which is often at the building line, but not always . 

If you want to be certain it doesn't happen, heat trace.


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## sannitig (Jan 15, 2012)

ahaha you guys are pervs! although...no panties...I'm into that too LOL

Seriously though, I am going to insulate from everyone's recommendation. I am located in Toronto FYI.

I am planning on doing the blow in but not sure if I should remove the old batt insulation...I've put potlights in on two occasions and it was horrible. Dusty, ITCHY pink and yellow crap.

Can I just blow over it? 
House was built in '69.


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

Yes, I would feel comfortable blowing insulation over the existing batts unless they are in unusual condition. Be sure to check that there is a vapor barrier on the lower side of the batts. The winters are cold in Toronto and you don't want moisture issues since the attic appears to be an unheaqted space. By the way, as you probably know, you could also add another row of fiberglass batts either dirrectly on top or perpindicular to the existing batts depending upon the thickness of the existing batts. I suggest that you place a few sheets of 1/2 plywood in the attic (as wide as can fit) so you are less likely to fall through the ceiling below.


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## sannitig (Jan 15, 2012)

thanks. Will do.


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

Just to clarify. If you do add additional batts, they will be the ones w/o any vapor barrier. A double vapor barrier is never a good idea.
Good luck with your project.


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## sannitig (Jan 15, 2012)

lol

Yes that would be bad. "Let's lock that vapor in!" haha


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

gma2rjc said:


> You can seal and insulate your attic right now. I just did my mom's attics and it was freezing up there, but wear gloves and warm clothes and you'll be fine.


Am I out of line in suggesting the sealing is as important as the insulating?


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## sannitig (Jan 15, 2012)

What do you mean by sealing? Sealing what? Like around the pot lights and everything?


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

Note that I am not an expert.

Ideally you want to stop as much air infiltration from your heated space up through your insulation and into your attic. Extra insulation will reduce the flow of air, but only sealing it (vapour barrier) will stop the air flow so the insulation can do it's job.

So yes, ensure all protrusions through the ceiling are sealed to your vapour barrier. And this will include the top plates of all interior walls.

I have only had to seal a few small holes and even that was a royal pain.

So I'm sure the experts will chime back in and correct any erroneous advice I have given and make sure you are heading in the right direction.


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## retired guy 60 (Jun 23, 2009)

Sealing holes such as where electrical wires enter the attic is a very good idea. I would suggest firestop material (fiber-like) or firestop expanding foam (regardless if required by code or not) depending upon which you feel will be easier to apply. What you want to do is prevent air infiltration from the heated portion of your home to the unheated attic.


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Windows on Wash said:


> This is a first I have heard of it.
> 
> I wonder what the wife says when she goes to her underwear drawer???


 Jeez! Awhile ago we had a criminal breaking into homes and stealing women's apparel. It was thought that he was a weirdo.
Maybe he just had a problem with ice dams.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Necessity is the mother of all invention!!


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