# Crawl space insulation falling down



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Should have been faced insulation with the vapor barrier toward the floor.
If it's wet then the crawl space is still to humid.
How's it vented?


----------



## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

House is on piers, it's all open under there. Usually it's dry but we've has a lot of rain here lately.

The summer after the house was built the hardwood floors began cupping. We had them sanded down and that's why the crawl space now has plastic over the dirt. Probably the unfaced batts did not help. Been three years since then and I'm not wanting any more hardwood floor problems.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

At present your outdoor temperature is 88° with a dew point of 72°. Get all that crap out of there and keep it out before it rots your sub floor.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

They should have installed a better vapor barrier under the hardwood; http://www.fortifiber.com/pdf/data_sheets/DS_aquabar_b.pdf

Maybe they used red rosin paper, equal to Sunday's funnies; http://grafbro.com/pdf/NWFA_INSTALLATION_GUIDELINES.pdf

You could always add foamboard for warm toes in winter and to stop any future problems; http://www.jlconline.com/coastal-contractor/raised-floors-for-the-low-country.aspx

Gary


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Either remove it, be it faced or non faced, or increase the floor temperature until it's above dew point temperature. Your floor has a condensation problem.


----------



## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

What's a good way to keep the old insulation up and a good way to secure the new insulation?


----------



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Use foam board to cover the exposed framing as Gary mentioned in his post.

http://www.jlconline.com/coastal-contractor/raised-floors-for-the-low-country.aspx


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I'll be forced to un-subscribe to this thread since it makes me sick to read where someone repeats the same mistake and expects different results.

I'll make a note of the title and if I live 4 or 5 more years I'll check back to see how the mold remediation process went.

Since the OP is DIY it shouldn't end up in court class action.


----------



## puttster (Apr 30, 2012)

SeniorSitizen said:


> At present your outdoor temperature is 88° with a dew point of 72°. Get all that crap out of there and keep it out before it rots your sub floor.


"Help, I have an infected finger." 
"CHOP IT OFF!!"


----------



## ProGreen (Oct 2, 2014)

puttster, since the fiberglass is wet now due to the tremendous rains, it seems a good idea to remove them as senior and others have said to avoid your wood rotting. It's not that hard, just takes time and keeping your eye around you. I took about 900 sq. feet of blown in fiberglass down last summer as well as a few rolls (which came down so much easier). I wanted to make sure the floor joists were not wet/rotten. When fiberglass is hanging down, it's a classic sign they are moist. Left alone in humidity, well thats a set up for mold growth.

Buy one of those remote control temp/humidity LCD monitors and see what the dew point is underneath. While your there, take down the net and pull down some of the hanging fiberglass. Your wood floors above will love it and you can better plan your next step. 

Think my job, with help, took 3 days plus what I did personally but it was two large crawl space areas.


----------

