# window motor



## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

A number if years back I did my '91 and didn't have to take out regulator. I think the body styles were the same till '92. 

But that's been a while back and my memory of it's a little dim. I know watcha mean about them dang rivets


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

That's what I keep running into. The Haynes book has nothing on it. And some people say it has to come out, some say it doesn't. Would like to know before I tear it down. It's a custom van, all kinds of stuff to take off just to get the panels off, and I have to get it done in one day.


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## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

Best up just get to it and have your drill and bit ready to go!


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

RoyalAcresRod said:


> Best up just get to it and have your drill and bit ready to go!


 Probably what I will do. A tree fell on my car a couple months ago, so this is my work truck and daily driver.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Don't they sell the rebuild kits with the replacement gears? I seem to recall they are like $8.


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

A gear kit is $20, but you still must pull the motor. And a new motor is only $46. with gears.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Disconnect the battery ground. 
 Remove the door trim panel. 
 Disconnect the window motor wiring harness. 
  There are 2 dimples in the door panel, opposite the 2 concealed motor retaining bolts. Using a 1 / 2 in. drill bit, drill out these dimples to gain access to the motor bolts. Be careful to avoid damage to the wires. 
 Remove the 3 motor mounting bolts. 
 Push the motor towards the outside of the door to disengage it from the gears. You'll have to support the window glass once the motor is disengaged. 
 Remove the motor from the door. 
 Installation is the reverse of removal. To avoid rusting in the drilled areas, prime and paint the exposed metal, or, cover the holes with waterproof body tape. Torque the motor mounting bolts to 50-85 inch lbs. (6-10 Nm). Make sure that the motor works properly before installing the trim panel.


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

I'll try it, but on a Ford like mine, step 3 is impossible until the motor is loose. You can not reach the wiring harness. And all three motor bolts are concealed.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

rusty baker said:


> I'll try it, but on a Ford like mine, step 3 is impossible until the motor is loose. You can not reach the wiring harness. And all three motor bolts are concealed.


_There are 2 dimples in the door panel, opposite the 2 concealed motor retaining bolts. Using a 1 / 2 in. drill bit, drill out these dimples to gain access to the motor bolts. Be careful to avoid damage to the wires._

Get a friend with small hands to disconnect wiring. Also, this was for 1500 Econoline. They have 2 more models, I just wild guessed.


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

No dimples. Just lots of rivets. Don't know which ones too drill out.


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## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

Where did you find the diagram?


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

sign up with autozone account, it's free. you will have access to repair manuals. 

now, my serious advice is - if you plan on keeping this car for any extended period, sign up for DIy account with Alldata. That's what pros use for repairs in shops. DIY account is 40 bucks for 5 years. That's, mi amigo, EIGHT DOLLARS a year. Nothing.
Also, comes with support. You miss something - you dial a number, or send email, they fetch it for you.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

http://www.alldata.com/

http://alldatadiy.com/


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