# Fencing question: Routing out 2x4's?



## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

A tornado came and blew down my lattice fence. It was already pretty cracked and old, but the high winds just finished it off. 

So I took the fence down and I noticed that they used the thick lattice. To mount it to the poles and keep it strong, they somehow routed a 3/8" wide channel down the length of the 2x4. And not the wide side of the 2x4, the skinny side. The 2" side. 

So how can I replicate this? Those old 2x4's that already have the channel in them are bent and broken. They need to be replaced. i went to lowes and home depot searching for them, and even a lumber yard. Some of the people working at all those places seem to remember them being sold, but say they haven't seen them in at least a few years. Its likely they're not made anymore. 

Is there an easy way to do this? I'd like to hang more thick lattice, just like there was before. But I need it to be strong against the wind. I do not have a router or any router bits. How would you go about doing this job?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Table saw will do it easily.


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## sublime2 (Mar 21, 2012)

You need a table saw with a datto blade in it to cut the 3/8" gap. 
A router may do it but very little surface to work with on the 2" side of the wood.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Could probably even do it with a circular saw, if you bought a few extra 2 x 4's to build a fixture to hold workpiece and the saw face in position.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I can see a few flaws in trying to just slide the lattice into a track like that.
1, It will have almost no holding power to keep the lattice in place with a high wind that's putting pressure against the middle of the panel.
2, That dado in the bottom rail is going to allow water to lay in there and rot it out.
3, Pressure treating does not go all the way through, by making that dado your exposing untreated wood.


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## Bennylava (Mar 22, 2013)

joecaption said:


> I can see a few flaws in trying to just slide the lattice into a track like that.
> 1, It will have almost no holding power to keep the lattice in place with a high wind that's putting pressure against the middle of the panel.
> 2, That dado in the bottom rail is going to allow water to lay in there and rot it out.
> 3, Pressure treating does not go all the way through, by making that dado your exposing untreated wood.



What would you recommend as a substitute? The fence has been there for a long time and I don't think it would look right if I just took the poles down and did not put the lattice back up.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Two 1x4s with a 6" -8" or so long x 4" wide spacer the thickness the groove needs to be sandwiched between the 1x4s about every 2 foot. Fasten the spacer between with rust resistant screws. This will give approx. a 2 inch deep groove, allow water to drain and wood to dry more better.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

Go to a lumber yard and talk to them.
They should carry lattice stops, U molding, C molding, etc.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Fairview said:


> Two 1x4s with a 6" -8" or so long x 4" wide spacer the thickness the groove needs to be sandwiched between the 1x4s about every 2 foot. Fasten the spacer between with rust resistant screws. This will give approx. a 2 inch deep groove, allow water to drain and wood to dry more better.


 x 4" wide spacer ---- that should read x 2" or 3" wide spacer.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I built a lattice screen for my deck 12+ years ago just like the OP asked for, and it is surprisingly strong, a linebacker would have trouble getting through it. 

Used a router table with a 1/2 inch dado bit, and ran 2x4x8 ft redwood boards through it, twice at 2 different depths, 1/2 now, 1/2 later. Framed the openings (sides/ bottom)using 45 degree corner cuts, first then slid the lattice in, then the top in , added a handrail on top of that. Each panel is approximately 3.5 ft x 6 ft, and there is no flex to the deck screen at all. As I said I used redwood, And drilled little weep holes every 18 inches in the bottom railing to rid it of any water. 

So it can and has been done . 

A router table and router is easiest, but a dado blade in a table saw can do it, as well as a regular blade just takes several passes, a circular saw with a jig to hold the 2x and several passes, Just remember to not try to cut the full depth at once. (reduces tear out). You could even use a compound miter saw, if you used fences and guides. 

We need to know what tools you want to use, then we can help much more.

ED


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would improve on my design by Custom building each panel between the posts for the exact dimensions needed minus 3 inches in width, then use a 2X4 on each end with the wide side against the lattice frame, to attach to the 4X4 posts, And then use a 2X8 facer board on each post. This makes your posts look like 8X8 posts, With 2X4 framing for the lattice. 

And I forgot to state a tip I discovered , When routing your channel run the board through one way, then turn it around and run it through the other side, this centers your channel. As it is nearly IMPOSSIBLE to set your fence at the exact center of your board. 

You can try and try and try, but you can't get no satisfaction. 

ED


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