# Gas Dryer - Not Heating



## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

Whirlpool Extracare
Checked Lint Filter
Checked Blockage in Exhaust
Checked Gas Valve
Checked Control Panel (Not Fluff)
Unplugged
Tried different heat settings
Still, no heat but it tumbles fine, I just had new belt installed.
It did heat up once for a few minutes then back to cold.
Any help? Here's the rear of the drier.
Thanks!


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

When you turn it on....after a few seconds you should hear a click. This is the gas valve being energized. If you don't hear the click then start checking the Temp sensors. Depending on your model, you could have 2 to 3 of them. One is over temp....then you should have an under temp...and then maybe 'above' temp...

Open the top cover...there should be a copy of the schematic in there.


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

I heard the click after a few seconds, this time it had heat coming out the exhaust BUT it did this to me earlier as well then went cold again. Does this sound like a sensor issue?


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## FClef (May 5, 2013)

jpascone said:


> I heard the click after a few seconds, this time it had heat coming out the exhaust BUT it did this to me earlier as well then went cold again. Does this sound like a sensor issue?


If this is a hot-surface ignition dryer, it is possible that the ignitor is going bad. The ignitor serves to ignite the gas as well as "prove flame" which simply means that it tells the valve that it is OK to stay open. If the ignitor is weak it may ignite and then drop out because it thinks there is no flame.


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

It went cold again, I unplugged, replugged. Reset dial, restarted, several seconds passed I heard click then some sort of secondary mechanical process occurred with in the unit (perhaps gas valve opening), secondary mechanical process stopped. This time no heat again. 
So, does this sound like igniter? If so can the part be appropriated retail?
Thanks.


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

*Replacing Igniter*

Just watched a youtube clip, seems straightforward replacing igniter in fire-tube but it had me taking the drum out first and accessing from the front. If you see my original photo there appears to be a back panel with hex nuts. Can I replace igniter here or does it have to be from the front of the unit.
Thanks!


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## FClef (May 5, 2013)

jpascone said:


> Just watched a youtube clip, seems straightforward replacing igniter in fire-tube but it had me taking the drum out first and accessing from the front. If you see my original photo there appears to be a back panel with hex nuts. Can I replace igniter here or does it have to be from the front of the unit.
> Thanks!


See if you can find your owners manual online. That should show you how to access the ignitor. Keep in mind that when replacing the ignitor, take care not to touch the ignitor surface. That can cause "hot spots" which will make the part fail prematurely.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

it is not going to be an ignitor issue, most likely solenoids on the gas valve are getting weak. Very common problem they will work for a few minutes and then overheat. If the


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

I was good replacing the igniter but now it could be a solenoid? At this point I'll call in a pro. I live in Santa Barbara where the cost of living is extraordinarily high so this service call will be a minimum of $200.  Bummer. It's a Whirlpool Model #LGR6611LQ0. If I definitively knew what to replace I could definitely do it myself but don't have time to troubleshoot. Thanks everybody. I'll post what the actual repair was.


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## FClef (May 5, 2013)

jpascone said:


> I was good replacing the igniter but now it could be a solenoid? At this point I'll call in a pro. I live in Santa Barbara where the cost of living is extraordinarily high so this service call will be a minimum of $200.  Bummer. It's a Whirlpool Model #LGR6611LQ0. If I definitively knew what to replace I could definitely do it myself but don't have time to troubleshoot. Thanks everybody. I'll post what the actual repair was.


It _could_ be the gas valve is bad, however if the ignitor isn't proving flame it could drop out as well. If replacing the ignitor is cheaper why not try it? I found one online for $35 and the gas valve I found for $107, which is far less than a $200 service call. If you feel better calling in a pro then that is the way to go.


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

I have a final tidbit on information which may help with identifying the faulty part. I popped the tab of the front of the drier to have a look down the fire-tube. Initially, it glowed bright red and then flame, we had heat! Walked away, checked 10 minutes later no heat. Hit start again, this time the igniter glowed bright red but never caught fire. Does this definitively to a part or part(s) I can order and replace?
Thanks again everybody.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Sounds like the gas solenoid. 

I would give all the connections a pull and push...make sure all of your connections are good. 

If I was troubleshooting it, I would put a meter on the gas solenoid and watch it. If at any point I have 120Vac but not gas...the solenoid is bad.


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

ddawg16 said:


> Sounds like the gas solenoid.
> 
> I would give all the connections a pull and push...make sure all of your connections are good.
> 
> If I was troubleshooting it, I would put a meter on the gas solenoid and watch it. If at any point I have 120Vac but not gas...the solenoid is bad.


All-right, I am inspired by this discussion, poking around this thing there isn't that much going on so I am convinced if I replace enough parts I'll get this. On start it seems to almost always glow red, and 90% of the time catch fire when it's cold, and maybe 30% of the time when it's hot. I'll order parts today, should have them by Saturday. I'll report back. Thanks everybody..


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

replace both the solenoids on the gas valve, they come as a kit, and you will have it fixed. Cost about 30.00


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

hardwareman said:


> replace both the solenoids on the gas valve, they come as a kit, and you will have it fixed. Cost about 30.00


Just the solenoids, not the valve itself?


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

just the coils, part#279834 cost about 22.00


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

hardwareman said:


> just the coils, part#279834 cost about 22.00


Any chance of picking these up through a retail channel? Would Sears stock?
Thanks!


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

find a local repair shop, ask them for a set of coils. They do not have to be for a Kenmore, all these coils are the same, manufactured by the same company


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## jpascone (May 4, 2013)

Yeehaw! $22 and 2 solenoids later my drier is fully operational. Thanks to everyone for their help. This saves me $200 and that's a really big deal.
Thanks.


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## FClef (May 5, 2013)

Glad to hear things are all fixed up!


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