# 2" Cast Iron Shower Drain - Adapter/Options?



## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

I'm finishing a basement remodel that includes the addition of a new bathroom from the existing rough-in. The house was built in 1982. 

I'd like to construct the shower using a shower liner and mortar bed method for a tiled shower. As I finished framing and looked at the existing rough-in shower drain closer, I found that it is actually 2" (ID) cast iron! This surprised me as everything else is plumbed using PVC. Nonetheless, it is what it is. I guess on the bright side it does have a p-trap (also cast iron). 

The rough-in drain pipe sticks out the concrete floor several inches. My original plan was simply to cut the pipe down, attach a PVC shower pan drain, lay the pre-slope, etc. and move on. The realization that the pipe is cast iron changed this. 

What are my options to resolve this issue? 

I've never worked with a cast iron pipe this small. I doubt an insert adapter would work/pass code as the ID would become too small. 

If there is some sort of adapter that slips over the pipe, how does it connect to the pipe? Ideally, I'd like to be able to use the PVC shower pan drain, if possible. 

I'd also like to avoid opening the floor and cutting out the pipe; even if I did this, I'd still face the same challenge - how would I convert it over to PVC?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A picture might be useful here--maybe not--

you will be opening up the floor ---a rented chipping hammer (SDS Drill) would be helpful.

your drain pipe is ,most likely, galvanized steel--threaded---you can unscrew the riser pipe--then use a threaded adapter to convert to PVC.

2" cast iron has not been used for many years---however,it does exist--so a picture or a better description of your pipe would help-


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

Here are some pics:

Overall shower area (framing nearly complete but still in progress, including blocking for shower liner):









Rough in with cap...









With cap removed...









Looking down...


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

Found some more info in our plumbing code that may help with potential solutions:
https://www.revisor.mn.gov/rules/?id=4715.1380

Based on the plumbing code, it looks like I can use as little as a 1 1/2" diameter drain for the shower:


MN Plumbing 4715.1380 said:


> *Subp 2. Shower waste outlet.*
> 
> Waste outlets, other than those in bathtubs, serving a single shower shall be at least 1-1/2 inches in diameter and have removable strainers not less than three inches in diameter having strainer openings not less than one-fourth inch in minimum dimension. Waste outlets shall be securely fastened to the waste pipe making a watertight connection thereto. Waste outlets serving showers, except single-head showers, must be at least two inches in diameter and must have removable strainers not less than three inches in diameter. Where each shower space is not provided with an individual waste outlet, the waste outlet must be located and the floor pitched so that the water from one shower does not flow over the floor area serving another shower. The floor and waste outlet design must not require a shower user to stand in or walk across the wastewater flowing from another shower space.


So, perhaps some sort of insert is a possibility?!


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

Nice pics. I'm sure someone will be along soon with more suggestions.

All the plumbers are busy, please give them time to respond to your post. Thanks.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

You need this PDF explains it all.

http://newportbrassfaucets.com/?pag...&linkID=3393&gclid=COKQweCEj8ECFQGqaQodbz4AcA


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

Hmmm...is there a way I can transition to PVC? If so, how? I'd rather not have a cast iron drain in the shower.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

LowlyDIYer said:


> Hmmm...is there a way I can transition to PVC? If so, how? I'd rather not have a cast iron drain in the shower.


Yes- use a 2" CIxPL coupling-- http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/shielded-couplings/proflex-couplings

BTW- cast iron drain bodies are fine. They specified for commercial work way more than plastic bodies. Granted, they are spendy in comparison


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

Great. Thanks.

Next question...anyone have some tips or tricks for cutting that pipe? I have a reciprocating saw but to use that I realistically would have to open up nearly 4 ft of floor to use it and get a cut that is remotely level. I'd rather not do that. Is there some sort of alternate cutter that I can use.

...just very disappointed. Don't know why they used cast iron. What a pain in the...


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## jmon (Nov 5, 2012)

I don't know any tricks or magic solution depends on the situation. If you do go with reciprocating saw, use the grit iron blades and be prepared, it takes time to cut through a 2 inch ci pipe. 

A quicker and easier way is to use a small "snap" or "chain" cutter which can usually be rented at your local big box store. Google cast iron snap or chain cutters. Just a suggestion. Please wait for the plumbers to respond to your specific situation. Thanks.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I just went through this project in my basement- with cast iron pipe.
I used my cordless angle grinder with a thin cut off blade. I carefully worked my way around the outside. I cleaned up any unevenness with a standard grinding wheel
Wear eye protection please


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

Thanks again, guys. Not necessarily the answers I was hoping to hear but it is what it is. 

I may just open the floor past the p-trap, cut out the trap, insert the coupler and replace the p-trap forward wih PVC. It may make for an easier cut.


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

I would cut out an area of concrete, say 4'x4', where you want your shower. Transition to pvc with a fernco fitting and put your trap in and a laticrete drain. Replace the concrete with a slope, apply hydroban, then tile.

This will give you a curbless shower.

I have done it this way, and I have also done it with a membrane, clamping drain, and double pre-slope. With the membrane system, I just terminated the membrane under the concrete near the entry.

I guess I have also done it with no membrane or waterproofing on a concrete slope and that way worked out alright as well, but that way is prone to maintenance problems because theoretically the concrete under the tile is always saturated.


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

cleveman said:


> I would cut out an area of concrete, say 4'x4', where you want your shower. Transition to pvc with a fernco fitting and put your trap in and a laticrete drain. Replace the concrete with a slope, apply hydroban, then tile.
> 
> This will give you a curbless shower.
> 
> ...


That's not at all what I'm looking to do but thanks for the reply.


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

If you don't mind going up, you can do your pre-slope/membrane and second layer and just tie on to the line with a fernco fitting as close to the existing floor as you can get.

If you want to stay low (minimal curb), then you can chip away some concrete from the pipe and connect lower.

Just get your drain assembly on site and figure 1 1/2" min. for the pre-slope and another 1 1/2" for the second layer and see where that puts you in regards to height.


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

I really appreciate all the replies. Here is how it ended up...

After reflecting on it a bit, I kept coming back to the idea that all other plumbing in the house was PVC...including the vent, which if you look closely, you can make out on the left side of the first pic, outside the shower framing. Well, if the drain was really vented there, that must mean a coupler was installed somewhere between that vent and the p-trap. 

So, with that in mind, I started digging...










Sure enough...there it is:









Instead of a 4' + hole, I have one that is just under 2'. 

So, here's what I now have:









Just have to fill it in:









Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Very nice! Why would someone stub up ci?
Your on your way to a nice shower now


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I wonder what they were thinking?

Nice neat job----


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

Some plumber probably had that cast iron trap and bit of pipe sitting in his garage for years and was happy as hell to get rid of it. The proper thing to do now is smash it with a hammer so it can never be used again.


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## LowlyDIYer (Oct 19, 2011)

Haha. Perhaps he was disgruntled plumber with a twisted sense of humor; "When the next guy tries to finish this thing off, I've got a surprise for him..." It truly makes no sense. It was actually more work for him to do this as well.

This has become my motto...
The thing about doing work yourself is that you learn a lot about your house. Of course, the other thing about doing work yourself is that you learn _a lot_ about your house.


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