# Kill me now.



## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

last night, trying to make a u-turn from the street into a parking lot and BAM!, passenger side of truck, the bed, rails a concrete pole in the parking lot. Pics coming. Not creased but still ugly. I'll need help deciphering repair so thanks in advance.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

What year truck, make, model, etc.?

Start calling the places that do the stake body conversions. If the truck is somewhat new, they have the beds cheap a lot of time.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

That does not sound good---get those pictures ---Mike---


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## Marqed97 (Mar 19, 2011)

Yeah that sucks. I've replaced a few bedsides over the years...lots and lots of spot welds to drill out. Like was previously stated, see about a whole new box at a place that does utility box conversions. May be cheaper in the long run.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Up in the Northern part of the country, those years were known to rot out bad around the back wheel wells, so I would think after all these years, take-off boxes would be hard to come by and expensive if you did find one...............


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## Marqed97 (Mar 19, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> Up in the Northern part of the country, those years were known to rot out bad around the back wheel wells, so I would think after all these years, take-off boxes would be hard to come by and expensive if you did find one...............


You are right about that in most aspects... That's why I always did just the box sides. I could get them thru our body shop for about $120 a side at cost. Labor intensive though. Hopefully he has better luck down south...


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Your truck or company truck? If company truck.....not a good start to that new job....


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## RWolff (Jan 27, 2013)

Wheres our pictures of the carnage, we just have to see this!


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Not the company truck, my diesel, 2001 F250 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel. I believe the paint is called dark highland green, now with yellow. 

Pics coming, let me take a few.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Before.









After. Not the best pics, I need to take some in the daylight tomorrow.


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## DavidSeon (Jan 28, 2013)

Unless I'm missing something, that doesn't look very bad at all. Course that's easy to say when it's not your truck. I don't have any skill in that area but I've seen much worse than that come back looking brand new from a decent body shop. Good luck.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Get some Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound and use that to remove the paint from the pole. 

Then get behind the bed and see if you can work out any of the dents. Do some Youtube searches for paintless dent removal. Not the dry ice videos. The ones where they drill tiny holes and insert rods to push out the dents.

It won't be perfect, but it may not need to be repainted either.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Why fix it...you will only dent it again.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

I don't mind a few scratches here and there, I do work out of it and why I bought a used work truck in the first place, but ugly is not cool, big old nasty dent. 

I think I can kick it out from under the truck, it's not creased. I'm going to try and avoid having to drill any holes as that will lead to rust. Then I'll try and buff out the paint the pole left on the bed.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-body-and-fender-set-31277.html

Depending on how much access you have to the backside, I have used a kit similar to this one.


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

Before rubbing compound, try using a claybar instead. Worked wonders when I traded paint on my black truck with a blue tahoe. Takes a little less effort than compound too. After you get the most of it off, then I'd do a low-speed with some compound on a random orbital, followed with a high-speed polish. 

If compounds won't do anything, wetsanding is not that complicated either.


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## Deja-vue (Mar 24, 2013)

With all due Respect: Get it to a Body Shop already before you make it worse. It takes a lot of practice and the right Tools to straighten this out.
Do you have a Paint-booth? Hydraulic pullers?
This is not a simple Dent-removal, trust me.
And please, don't start drilling holes.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Just had the rear tire patched at Discount Tire, took a few more pics. I tried using their tire mallet to pop some of the dent out but no luck. It felt as if I had a heavier mallet and more room to swing it it would pop out or some of it at least.


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## creeper (Mar 11, 2011)

Doc Holliday said:


> rails a concrete pole in the parking lot. .


 
DOC!!! 

How ?? Why ?? Was the parking lot empty...


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

creeper said:


> DOC!!!
> 
> How ?? Why ?? Was the parking lot empty...


I'll get a pic of the pole and parking lot, just give me 'till the weekend's end. The pole is short and fat and yellow and positioned right where the driveway to the parking lot meets the parking lot. I was making a right into the parking lot on the uphill driveway and decided to make a right u-turn to get to a parking spot right there. Going up hill and the pole being so short I didn't even see it.

Sucks, but lucky I got that truck for about half of it's worth. I can afford to spend it's other halve's value in repairs and a paint job/body overhaul was in the plans already. Just might take a while getting it all done.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Take a toilet plunger. Rub some vaseline around the rim of it. Put it right in the center here (see attachment). Push down and pull out.


This type works the best.









The dent below the body line will take a little more work (still not too bad).

The dent on the wheel arch will be the toughest one to get right, but it's possible.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

That's actually the main part I'm disgusted with. Thanks, I'll try it, just got to get a plunger first and some time. 

What about the dry ice thing? I've seen a few Youtube videos of it working.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Never tried the dry ice tricks. I'm more used to cutting out bad panels and welding in new metal.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/amdn/sets/72157619185593260/

...of course, this would require a repaint for sure.


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

that is awesome work! I had no idea you were so talented. :thumbsup:

I'm thinking I may find a bed for it and just have the entire truck painted. There's a truck wrecker yard called Bronco's Truck Salvage up north that has a lot of dead trucks. I've gotten a rear complete windshield (manual sliding middle) for $125.00 and the spare tire winch for $35.00. I'm hoping he'll give me a good deal. Mine might not be worth the headache and cost to repair.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Doc Holliday said:


> that is awesome work! I had no idea you were so talented. :thumbsup:
> 
> I'm thinking I may find a bed for it and just have the entire truck painted. There's a truck wrecker yard called Bronco's Truck Salvage up north that has a lot of dead trucks. I've gotten a rear complete windshield (manual sliding middle) for $125.00 and the spare tire winch for $35.00. I'm hoping he'll give me a good deal. Mine might not be worth the headache and cost to repair.


Maybe you can swap beds with him for a discount.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

https://www.google.com/#q=suction+d...61,d.cGE&fp=a7e137180e422f5b&biw=1920&bih=974

Likely not work on a crease though. You can use hammer dent puller, or weld rods and pull, or use good resin to bond rods and pull.
My neighbor does this for around $500, paint job included.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8u615Foes3k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5tzw371Euc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kDhAEB4VU0


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

ukrkoz said:


> or weld rods and pull


Spitznagel.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Most shops are going to want to change the box side. With multiple body lines damaged it would take a lot of time to pull it all out and get it to look right. Factory panels are pricey and most aftermarket panels offer thin material and more work to make them fit, they are cheaper for a reason.

If you go with a replacement box anything from a 99-13 will fit right on it. The 11-13's have a slightly different rounded flare around the wheel well where on the older box the flare is flattened. It is not terribly noticeable, but otherwise all the body lines and bolts line up perfectly. Painting a box is not going to be inexpensive either. 

On an older box carefully check for rusted bed cross members, they rust out bad. I don't really see that many super duties badly rusted over the wheel wells but most of them have rusted cross members under the bed. Hopefully TX has been more friendly to them than Iowa is.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1 to fixing it yourself.

It won't be perfect and new but you can get most of it out from the backside and clay/compound to get the paint off.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

r0ckstarr said:


> Take a toilet plunger. Rub some vaseline around the rim of it. Put it right in the center here (see attachment). Push down and pull out.
> 
> 
> This type works the best.
> ...


That's actually a sink plunger. (Sorry, couldn't resist. )


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> That's actually a sink plunger. (Sorry, couldn't resist. )


Ha! Never knew there was such a thing. I always assumed they were toilet plungers. Looks like I have the wrong one in my bathroom, lol. :laughing:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

r0ckstarr said:


> Ha! Never knew there was such a thing. I always assumed they were toilet plungers. Looks like I have the wrong one in my bathroom, lol. :laughing:


You want the one with the bell for the toilet. Makes a good seal to push, ah, stuff down the pipe.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

I used very successfully wife's meat grinder with suction cup. On my Silverado, you could not lean against the box wall, it'll cave in.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

ukrkoz said:


> I used very successfully wife's meat grinder with suction cup. On my Silverado, you could not lean against the box wall, it'll cave in.


Meat grinder?


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

Bigplanz said:


> You want the one with the bell for the toilet. Makes a good seal to push, ah, stuff down the pipe.


are you talking about pulling my dent out or pulling meatloaf out? :laughing:


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Doc Holliday said:


> are you talking about pulling my dent out or pulling meatloaf out? :laughing:


You never want to pull anything out with a toilet plunger. Ever!


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Bigplanz said:


> You never want to pull anything out with a toilet plunger. Ever!


Dents are the only exception! :laughing:


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## Doc Holliday (Mar 12, 2011)

r0ckstarr, you think maybe you could take a look at it and help me decide what to do? And if you can possibly do some work I'd be willing to pay you. i ask because I don't think it's worth it on this truck to spend a grand on a new bed and then another $1500.00 for a paint job. My goal is buy an older 2000 model 7.3 with the forged rods that I can take to 550 hp and I can use that money towards the truck I want.

I can't do that on this truck without rebuilding the motor with new piston crank rods. It has the powdered metal rods, very rigid, good to 430-ish hp.

Think about it, please? I'll come down to you. Have a few beers, etc..


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## dougp23 (Sep 20, 2011)

Doc,

I think the dent adds a little character, some toughness. Like a "lived-in" look.

Of course, my truck is an absolute clunker!

But if it were me, I'd save my money and pull out the dents as much as possible, touch up the paint, and roll with it! Tough luck with that pole.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Drive over to your local HD parking lot....find the group of guys standing near the street....and say to them...

_Hey, amigo mío. ¿Cuánto hay que eliminar a estos estudiantes y pintar mi carro para que se vea como nuevo?_


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Doc Holliday said:


> r0ckstarr, you think maybe you could take a look at it and help me decide what to do? And if you can possibly do some work I'd be willing to pay you. i ask because I don't think it's worth it on this truck to spend a grand on a new bed and then another $1500.00 for a paint job. My goal is buy an older 2000 model 7.3 with the forged rods that I can take to 550 hp and I can use that money towards the truck I want.
> 
> I can't do that on this truck without rebuilding the motor with new piston crank rods. It has the powdered metal rods, very rigid, good to 430-ish hp.
> 
> Think about it, please? I'll come down to you. Have a few beers, etc..


I don't have a problem looking at it. My problem always seems to be my work schedule and classes. It will be a week and a half before we have a chance at meeting up. 

Until then, try the SINK plunger trick on the big dent. Then post a picture from inside the wheel well showing how much access room you have to work with.



ddawg16 said:


> Drive over to your local HD parking lot....find the group of guys standing near the street....and say to them...
> 
> _Hey, amigo mío. ¿Cuánto hay que eliminar a estos estudiantes y pintar mi carro para que se vea como nuevo?_


eliminate these students?  :laughing:

I think you mean "these 2 dents: "eliminar estos dos abolladuras". lol


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