# HELP!!Is this the way drywall is hung?



## MayJune (Dec 16, 2009)

We replaced the entry door, and now a sub-contractor is finishing the drywall. He left the house to go get the mud, so I decided to check everything out before he came back.Today he is going to take down the drywall around the door and replace it with 1/4" drywall.
I've posted pictures on Flickr.Tell me am I crazy to stop this job or am I doing what is right? 
This isn't spam...I need your opinion!! HELP!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

The way it was hung in the pictures is prone to many issues:

1) Nail popping. Use drywall screws. Also create much less of a dent to fill when using screws.

2) Butt joints especially around doors(even worse around exterior doors) will always crack. Always try to avoid or adleast minimize joints at or around doors whenever possible. You've got too many small pieces shoved together, some not even nailed.

3) The bottom corner where the paper is torn will always be a weak spot unless you seal it with primer and build it back up. It's more work to fix that than it would be to replace it.

4) The 1/2" drywall that meets the door jamb it sticking out way too much. When it comes to baseboard time you'll never get them to sit flush. If 1/4" was suggested and alleviates the issue, go with that.

5) I don't know whats going on with your ceiling picture. There is exposed OSB sheathing. It just doesn't look right.

While its true mudding and taping can hide most flaws that assumes that you took the proper precautions to avoid common mistakes.

Honestly, tear it down. Sorry.


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

Disregard the previous post with regard to drywall thickness and use of nails.

1/2" drywall is code. If the gap is large enough the casing can not accommodate the drywall then it will be necessary to install a jamb extension. Nailing is fine if done correctly which it has not been. There should be a continuous board installed across the top. No nails or screws in the header. If nails are used double nailing is required (nail spaced 2" from each other). Exp: Nail 2" nail 12" nail 2" nail. 

A small gap in the corners is OK. The tear out needs to be replaced. I'm not sure what is going on with the ceiling but if that is a space or if someone is planning on taping and muding OSB it's not going to work. The pieced in squares are unprofessional and likely to crack. Roofing nails are no good for drywall work.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Disregard my post? The 1/2" and 1/4" use can be debated depending on locality. Some places even require fireproof drywall on all exterior walls. Personally I would fix the door alignment and go with 1/2".

All my points are valid so I'm unsure of why my post should be disregarded.


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

n0c7 said:


> Disregard my post?


The part about 1/4" drywall and not using nails. Nails can be used effectively to hang drywall as long as they are installed properly. 1/2" drywall is code.


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

ARI001 said:


> 1/2" drywall is code.


I didn't see where the OP stated a location. How can you know what their code is?

Drywall is cheap -- don't patch together little pieces.

Making jamb extentions is tedious, especially if they have to taper, but they're not difficult.

You could cover the OSB strip with crown, but why isn't there drywall?


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

ARI001 said:


> The part about 1/4" drywall and not using nails. Nails can be used effectively to hang drywall as long as they are installed properly. 1/2" drywall is code.


I won't comment on the 1/4" and 1/2" issue as it will become a lengthy debate.

As for nails, three reasons to avoid them:

1) They are known to pop more than screws.
2) They make a larger dent in the drywall to fill, more prone to cracking.
3) For an amateur, he cannot easily take down his work for corrections in the hanging stage.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Looks like the door assembly sets closer to the side wall on the right, than on the left too. You'll see that forever, even if the drywall gets resolved.


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## MayJune (Dec 16, 2009)

The is a prefabricated home. 
When the house was built by the previous owners they neglected to pour a bump out in the basement foundation for the front door.The small plywood area that is necessary for the crane to lift the house onto the foundation was left intact for the last five years.The plywood was breaking down which allowed water in the basement.
The OSB was once on the exterior of my house. They brought the door frame out about 18" so it is flush with the front of the house.


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

n0c7 said:


> I won't comment on the 1/4" and 1/2" issue as it will become a lengthy debate.
> 
> As for nails, three reasons to avoid them:
> 
> ...


1) Either can pop as you have acknowledged. Popping has more to do with movement and or shrinkage then it does with fastener type.
2) When installed properly by a skilled installer there should only be a slight indentation from driving the nail. 
3) I don't hang rock with the idea of having to take it down. That is a ludicrous argument. That makes as much sense as the argument of using less fasteners in case someone wants to remodel down the road. 
4) The OP has hired someone to do the install. They should be familiar with the standards and proper techniques (though not the case here) to install the drywall properly using either method. Both methods are acceptable. 

That said I prefer to use screws and glue. You still need to know where to place them and how far to space them as well as where not to place them.


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Looks like the door assembly sets closer to the side wall on the right, than on the left too. You'll see that forever, even if the drywall gets resolved.


Mine does that. I put a 3/8" jamb extention on the left, and a 1/2" extention on the right, with a tapered strip across the top. You can see it if you look at it, but it doesnt' jump out at you. The trick is getting a good joint between the extention strips and the original jamb.

I had considered tearing out my door and building a new jamb to fit, but it would have been a lot of work. I'm glad I took the approach that I took.


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## MayJune (Dec 16, 2009)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Looks like the door assembly sets closer to the side wall on the right, than on the left too. You'll see that forever, even if the drywall gets resolved.


 It's OK there will be a built in on that wall.
:no: Not built by the drywall guy or any of his friends.


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

pyper said:


> I didn't see where the OP stated a location. How can you know what their code is?
> 
> Drywall is cheap -- don't patch together little pieces.
> 
> ...


I know 3/8" is the absolute minimum thickness depending on application and finish allowed by IRC code which has been adopted by all 50 states. I will acknowledge that it may come down to locality from there. 

The OP stated later that this is a manufactured home which are generally built to conform to the strictest codes.


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

ARI001 said:


> The OP stated later that this is a manufactured home which are generally built to conform to the strictest codes.


If it's indeed a manufactured home, then it falls under HUD code, not building codes. The last time I looked, which was at least 10 years ago, HUD code didn't require sheetrock at all (you could put plywood paneling on the studs), but moving the entry door would definitely be a violation -- you can't do anything that might change the building's performance in the wind without an engineer's seal. 

But if it's a modular home (not manufactured) it *would* fall under local building codes.


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## MayJune (Dec 16, 2009)

It is a Module home not manufactured.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

ARI001 said:


> 1)
> 3) I don't hang rock with the idea of having to take it down. That is a ludicrous argument. That makes as much sense as the argument of using less fasteners in case someone wants to remodel down the road.


No doubt, however, I've been able to save pieces of drywall in the past by carefully eyeballing where the screws are on the wall and measuring up to the seam to make my incision in the case of having to get behind a wall.

Now, that's typically a moot point if the walls have been painted more than once.

I've also had the unfortunate experience of hanging drywall alone and sometimes its nice to be able to unzip two place holder screws to shove up a piece that shifted on you instead of destroying the piece.


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## Michael Thomas (Jan 27, 2008)

At least on the side abutting the adjacent wall the drywall (except perhaps right at the corner, depending on the width of the door's casing ) is not the finish surface, it's functioning as a shim over which casing will be installed.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I vote tear it out and close the gaps. Use vynle and paper corners. If possible cut the door out of as full pieceof drywall minus the width needed to eliminate joints at the corners of the door.

If the jams are too small, rip them and reinstall flush to the wall then use wider doorstop trim if you have to cover the open split in the jam. If you can use 3/8" where you are at, this should leave you enogh meat to attach the hinges firmly to the jams.


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## HOMEY (Mar 18, 2009)

is this a hack job ??????how are u supposed to finish tape ??flat tape to the existing door trim ?or maybe thats why he wanted 1/4 inch ,so he could slip in behind the trim !..make sure he prefills the joints with sheetrock..at least it will expand when it sets up & keep er tight..the other repliers are right on though..door areas are so prone to movement..which makes cracking in your joints..too many joints..lol on this this job than i would like to tape.....
:no:


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

pyper said:


> If it's indeed a manufactured home, then it falls under HUD code, not building codes. The last time I looked, which was at least 10 years ago, HUD code didn't require sheetrock at all (you could put plywood paneling on the studs), but moving the entry door would definitely be a violation -- you can't do anything that might change the building's performance in the wind without an engineer's seal.
> 
> But if it's a modular home (not manufactured) it *would* fall under local building codes.





> The small plywood area that is necessary for the crane to lift the house onto the foundation


Implies "modular". 

Pictures also make it pretty obvious that it is not a double wide or anything like that. Confirmed by OP on the last post of the first page. Lets not get into semantics. 

Coincidentally many of the "modular" homes I have done have had 5/8" drywall on the walls and ceilings. They are usually built to meet or exceed (due to transport) the strictest building codes but not necessarily the local codes if they are less stringent. They are inspected in the factory by third party inspectors. Only the work done by the set crew and on site connections, modifications, site work, and additions to the structure fall under the authority of the local building department. 

Extending the front entryway could potentially have been done on site without an engineers seal. Many modular homes have framing work done on site post set. This work is usually encompassed in or falls under the building permit. I have also framed many large porch roofs without an engineers seal on them (affects wind performance) as well as minor framing modifications, stairs, garages, decks, and basements that all fell under the building permit(s) pulled for the job. You need a seal to alter structural elements or engineered elements of the structure not for wind performance. 

A house is generally a large box or rectangle, it has poor wind performance and usually lack wheels and an engine thus will not be winning any races. :laughing:


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

ARI001 said:


> Implies "modular".


I've seen manufactured housing (HUD code) subdivisions put on foundations with cranes too. Two stories as well, with full basements. Not the most common thing, but they're out there.

The fellow from the factory said that the reason they use 2x6 walls and 5x8" sheetrock (on the ones I saw) was so they would hold up to being towed down the highway.



> They are inspected in the factory by third party inspectors. Only the work done by the set crew and on site connections, modifications, site work, and additions to the structure fall under the authority of the local building department.


Thanks! I had been wondering about that. I recently met some guys who are going to use modular to build an apartment building. Pretty amazing.




> Extending the front entryway could potentially have been done on site without an engineers seal. Many modular homes have framing work done on site post set.


If you go back and look, you'll see that I was referring only to HUD code homes ("mobile homes"). With modular you can do anything that's permissible under local building code -- _now_ that the original poster has clarified that it is a modular home we know that the alterations could have been done under local building codes with any necessary permits and/or inspections... 

With HUD code (not relavent to this thread any longer) you're restricted to the HUD code. Yes, I see large roofed porches on double-wides all the time, but unless they were designed by the factory (some are -- they can come with plans and details for how to attach the roof, etc) they are a code violation. 

http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_08/24cfr3280_08.html


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

pyper said:


> I've seen manufactured housing (HUD code) subdivisions put on foundations with cranes too. Two stories as well, with full basements. Not the most common thing, but they're out there.
> 
> _*Agreed I have seen mobiles placed on foundations also. I have not seen any two story mobiles. In regards to mobiles you can not attach to them here under any circumstances. Decks, porches, etc., must be free standing.*_
> 
> ...


We do have building codes that are relevant to mobile homes here. The gist is regarding structures (decks, additions, etc.) that they must be free standing (self supporting).


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

ARI001 said:


> We do have building codes that are relevant to mobile homes here. The gist is regarding structures (decks, additions, etc.) that they must be free standing (self supporting).


Right -- because you can't do anything to the mobile home that will impact how it performs in the wind (without an engineers seal).


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

pyper said:


> Right -- because you can't do anything to the mobile home that will impact how it performs in the wind (without an engineers seal).


No, it actually has to do with structural bearing capability. The building code, I am not referring to the HUD codes you mentioned.


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

ARI001 said:


> No, it actually has to do with structural bearing capability.


Then I suppose it's a happy coincidence that it also causes compliance with HUD code. :thumbsup:


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

pyper said:


> Then I suppose it's a happy coincidence that it also causes compliance with HUD code. :thumbsup:


:thumbsup:


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