# Drywall Crack Diagnosis



## sixeightten (Feb 10, 2009)

That looks like a crack from the house settling. Pretty good shape for 20 years old. There does seem to be a little discoloration there as well. You could definitely poke around a bit since you need to take care of the crack anyway. I bet the leak was very small and the crack allowed it to seep in a bit. Probably easily repaired.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

What is the width of that wall? Any chance it has a narrow strip for the last piece of drywall?

I just noticed crack #2 is about the same distance from the wall. I also noticed the water stains a little more clearly.

Water prob affected the mud in the corners making it crack. The distance looks about right to me.


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## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

I request advice: should the newly exposed edging be tacked down prior to re-taping and plastering? How do I do it? As you can see, there isn't any holes to put a screw through.

I removed the plaster from around the crack. I found:

1. It had been repaired before. The repair which consisted of mesh tape and joint compound was separating from the original plaster.

2. The original drywall was not flush with the original bullnose edging.

3. The original edging was not mounted with nails/screws. Was it pushed into joint compound? The ceiling edging doesn't use nails either.

4. The original drywall tape did not cover the gap between the edging and drywall, it was tucked under the edging. Why?

5. Alot of joint compound was used to fill the large crevice between the drywall and bullnose edging.

In order to repair this, I assume that I must 1)ensure the edging doesn't move, and 2) use drywall tape between the edging and drywall. I'm not certain of the correct way to keep bullnose and ceiling edging from moving and if joint compound is good for filling a crevice about 3/16" thick. I could sure use some advice.

EDIT: I found nails holding down one side of the bullnose edging and nails on both sides of the ceiling edging. However, I still haven't found evidence that drywall tape was used between the drywall and edging.


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## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

I have removed the joint compound around all of the cracks, screwed down flexing corner beads (I made holes in the metal where if there were none at flexing areas), and applied mesh tape and new joint compound. Although I now know that drywall tape is not usually used between drywall and edging, I hypothesize that much of the cracking was due to the thickness of the joint compound around these joints (1/4" thick at some locations).

I hope that the use of tape will strengthen the thick application of joint compound and prevent future cracks, because I don't want to have to do this again.


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

If you are using mesh tape and use regular ready-mix joint compound, you are running the risk of cracks down the road. Mesh tape should always be coated (first coat anyways) with a setting type compound (powdered that is mixed)...

Just FYI


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## lkstaack (Apr 13, 2011)

chrisBC said:


> If you are using mesh tape and use regular ready-mix joint compound, you are running the risk of cracks down the road. Mesh tape should always be coated (first coat anyways) with a setting type compound (powdered that is mixed)...
> 
> Just FYI


Thank you for your advice; this is the first time I've patched this much drywall, so any word of experience is helpful. As it happens, I am using Westpac Fast Set 40 setting type compound. It's supposed to set in 40 minutes, but some of my patches are so deep it's taking several hours.


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## framer52 (Jul 17, 2009)

Just becasue it says 40 minutes, doesn't mean it sets in 40.

For repairs and small jobs I always use 20 minute mud. Mix small amounts and keep putting it up until you are done.

The 40 min. will help make this a permanent repair.:thumbsup:


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