# Best basement wall paint on 100 year old cinderblocks



## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Just by looking at how the existing paint perfomed (as well as your own tests) should give you the simple answer. NO paint is going to last very long on walls like that. There's obviously moisture pushign through the walls, as obviously, the outside is going to be more damp than the interior, and the wall is going to naturally dry to the interior. Unless you can devise a way to get teh exterior dryer than the interior, any paint/primer/miracle cat is going to peel and delaminate at some point.

If you just want some uniform color, I'd mix an actual cement "paint". White portland, a little hydrated lime, bonding admixture, and water. This is far from perfect also, as it will change color when it gets wet, but usually returns to the original white when/if it dries out..........


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## mikemark8808 (Aug 27, 2015)

jomama45 said:


> If you just want some uniform color, I'd mix an actual cement "paint". White portland, a little hydrated lime, bonding admixture, and water. This is far from perfect also, as it will change color when it gets wet, but usually returns to the original white when/if it dries out..........


Hmm, what ratios of these things should I use? And shouldn't I just spray the cement with bonding agent before applying the mixture? I've used hydrated lime before to kill cat urine smells on subfloor, didn't know it would be useful in this application!


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

if you're concerned about the structural integrity of your home's walls ( your house sits on them ), address the serious water damage & don't worry about paint - that's cosmetic right now,,, we had a job last year where the bsmnt wall collapsed & fell into the garage,,, lying there on the garage floor, it sure looked nice on the part you could see but the backside was rotted out from water & soil acids

IF i were you, i'd start digging outside & see what's going on


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## mikemark8808 (Aug 27, 2015)

stadry said:


> if you're concerned about the structural integrity of your home's walls ( your house sits on them ), address the serious water damage & don't worry about paint - that's cosmetic right now,,, we had a job last year where the bsmnt wall collapsed & fell into the garage,,, lying there on the garage floor, it sure looked nice on the part you could see but the backside was rotted out from water & soil acids
> 
> IF i were you, i'd start digging outside & see what's going on


We did this last year when we bought the house. There were holes, mostly at the soil line, 2-3ft deep at most. We made forms and filled them all in with concrete. It was mostly at the corners..

I saw a neighbor close to us buy a house with tons of basement leakage. He singlehandedly dug out 2 sides of the house by hand, took about 2 weeks. I'm not sure if I'm ready for that kind of job


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I'd say the best paint is no paint at all. That's because any paint you put on those walls will reduce the evaporation of moisture from the interior wall surfaces. If you live where the ground freezes in winter, then the more moisture you have inside the walls, the greater the probability of freeze/thaw damage to the masonry when that water freezes.

However, if you're stuck on painting those walls, I'd say the best paint to use would be a bathroom paint like Zinsser PermaWhite Bathroom Paint which you can buy at Home Depot. Bathroom paints have a mildewcide in them that kills mildew spores that land on the paint before they have a chance to grow and discolour the paint. I've seen more than a few painted basement walls that were covered with mildew because of the condensation that forms on the wall in cold weather. A bathroom paint would prevent that.


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## mikemark8808 (Aug 27, 2015)

Hmm, thanks, that helps. I heard they do sell mildewcide which you can just add to any paint. I might do that instead and use a normal waterproofing paint, since most bathroom paints are glossy, and I don't think I want any sheen at all.

I'm currently on the fence between Behr Masonry Waterproofing Paint or Drylok right now.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

' s last year when we bought the house. There were holes, mostly at the soil line, 2-3ft deep at most. We made forms and filled them all in with concrete. It was mostly at the corners.. ' why would anyone think more concrete is waterproofing ? waste of time & $$

I saw a neighbor close to us buy a house with tons of basement leakage. He singlehandedly dug out 2 sides of the house by hand, took about 2 weeks. I'm not sure if I'm ready for that kind of job ' ready or not, it is the ONLY way to prevent water from penetrating your wall

as strother martin proclaimed in cool hand luke, 'what we got he-ah is a FAILure to comMUNicate !' inpo, NOTHING is going to resolve the issue UNLESS you 1st waterproof the exterior wall - repeat NOTHING !

NO product yet mention'd are worth a **** for this problem nor would any pro waste time/$/labor considering them,,, occasionally we do use dry---- but ONLY upon specific direction from owner & then ONLY with no guarantee ( other than we bought what they specified) it will last

its your house,,, there's damage taking place whether or not you can see it


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## mikemark8808 (Aug 27, 2015)

stadry said:


> ' s last year when we bought the house. There were holes, mostly at the soil line, 2-3ft deep at most. We made forms and filled them all in with concrete. It was mostly at the corners.. ' why would anyone think more concrete is waterproofing ? waste of time & $$
> 
> I saw a neighbor close to us buy a house with tons of basement leakage. He singlehandedly dug out 2 sides of the house by hand, took about 2 weeks. I'm not sure if I'm ready for that kind of job ' ready or not, it is the ONLY way to prevent water from penetrating your wall
> 
> ...


Alright drylok it is then!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Another vote for no paint. What is the grading like outside as well as the gutter routing. 

All Drylok is going to do is keep the water from coming in and trap it in the block where it can freeze.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

problem is op can't read/comprehend so how'd i miss that ? he's got the idea in his head of what the apron/vest/i-net store said'll work & he can only see the replies that agree w/his intended method,,, i guess that's why we have prey & predators 

wash, don't worry about dry**** ' keep the water from coming in and trap it in the block where it can freeze ' as it won't stay on the wall long enough - no matter how 1 prep's the wall,,, 'sides, below grade walls never freeze below frost lines as ambient earth temp's about 67f


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Listen to the experts above my post. Nothing is going to work until you get that moisture problem under control. I'm a painter and see walls like these all the time. Painting/Drylocking it is like putting lipstick on a pig. Dry lock is only good for small migrations of water not a waterfall which looks like what is happening to your walls.

Once you get your foundation/moisture issues under control.......apply a masonry primer like Loxon from SW and then apply the topcoats of your choice.


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