# World's Slowest Drywaller



## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

I think I have achieved the the status of world's slowest drywaller now. Four days ago I started rocking our master bedroom. It's about 15'x15' and I'm only doing the walls. I think I'm averaging about 45 minutes per sheet with a lot of goofing around thrown in there. Granted, there have been no sheets I haven't had to cut but I think I have mastered the snail's pace. 

And I'm still not done lain:


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

LOL, we've all been there. Better to do it SLOW and CORRECT than to rush through it.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

People often ask for advice on "how-to" their drywall and I have to bite my tongue so to speak. There are so many little tricks that one simply has to learn from doing and you are in the learning phase. I cheated and worked alongside a very good drywaller and picked up much of what I know, from how to open and close a mud bucket to applying more pressure to one side or the other on my drywall knife. Throw in a few hundred sheets of 12' 5/8" drywall and I ended up much better than I started.

Do you have one of the lifting handles for the drywall? Do you have the toe lifter to push the sheets up against the ceiling? How about a rasp to clean up a cut edge and shave off a little if needed. Then there is the rotozip for cutting out the electrical boxes, but that takes some practice.

I still haven't mastered all of the cutting techniques, like holding the razor blade at the end of the tape and sliding the length of the sheet.

Sometimes when we DIY our hourly pay drops below a dollar, but we are proud of what we do.

Bud


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Looks like you're on the home stretch. :thumbup:

Next, Drywall finishing... :w00t:


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

A few years ago I was finishing my basement and I was averaging three hours apiece for putting up drywall panels for the walls.

This included the cutting for electric outlets, doorways, etc.

One problem I ran into was warped studs where the panel did not contact a stud because the studs on each side protruded further into the room. I ended up fastening cardboard shims the the stud in question.


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

Bud9051 said:


> Do you have one of the lifting handles for the drywall? Do you have the toe lifter to push the sheets up against the ceiling? How about a rasp to clean up a cut edge and shave off a little if needed. Then there is the rotozip for cutting out the electrical boxes, but that takes some practice.


Yeah, I have all the tools - toe lifter, compass, rasp, corner bead crimper, drywall saw, rotozip, etc. 30 years ago I was drywalling my house (I think it was about 200 sheets) and bought all the tools then (less the rotozip). What I don't have is energy, enthusiasm and youth. And strength - even the ultralight drywall is a struggle. I guess that's what happens when you hit 65. :wheelchair:

What I'd like now is maybe a corner roller and flat box for the taping. Watching the tapers, they make it look so easy. But I'll make do with my mud pan and taping knives. 

What I'd really like is this:








cuz I hate sanding drywall!


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

JulieMor said:


> Yeah, I have all the tools - toe lifter, compass, rasp, corner bead crimper, drywall saw, rotozip, etc. 30 years ago I was drywalling my house (I think it was about 200 sheets) and bought all the tools then (less the rotozip). What I don't have is energy, enthusiasm and youth. And strength - even the ultralight drywall is a struggle. I guess that's what happens when you hit 65. :wheelchair:
> 
> What I'd like now is maybe a corner roller and flat box for the taping. Watching the tapers, they make it look so easy. But I'll make do with my mud pan and taping knives.
> 
> ...


 I wish I had one of them also, but I never will


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

To AllanJ, the warped studs are taken care of well before the drywall starts. Take a look at a drywall hammer, in addition to a special hammer end, the other side is a hatchet which is used to trim high spots. A long straight board and a couple of hours (depending upon how bad it is) and a few other tricks the walls are flat, then you move forward. 

JM, when I work by myself I use the carrying handle and will frequently screw a 2x4 to the wall as needed to provide a lip to support the next sheet of drywall.

I also use a Senco drywall screw gun, it's like a third hand. 

"I guess that's what happens when you hit 65." I'm almost 69 and although I feel the same pain, the more I do the more I can do. Hate the winter up here as I become a shut-in. Just getting started again and it feels good. Slow, certainly, but worth it.

Bud


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

Bud9051 said:


> I'm almost 69 and although I feel the same pain, the more I do the more I can do. Hate the winter up here as I become a shut-in. Just getting started again and it feels good. Slow, certainly, but worth it.


That's one of the reasons I moved to Florida. Winter shut-in took its toll and it was taking me longer and longer to recover. It took us four months from the time we arrived here to close on our house and even that inactive time took a toll on me. I've learned at this age you gotta keep moving or you lose it fast.


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

chrisn said:


> I wish I had one of them also, but I never will


If you ever have a big sanding job to do, Festool has a 30 day full refund return policy. Just try not to get too attached. :vs_no_no_no:


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Bud9051 said:


> To AllanJ, the warped studs are taken care of well before the drywall starts. Take a look at a drywall hammer, in addition to a special hammer end, the other side is a hatchet which is used to trim high spots. A long straight board and a couple of hours (depending upon how bad it is) and a few other tricks the walls are flat, then you move forward.
> 
> JM, when I work by myself I use the carrying handle and will frequently screw a 2x4 to the wall as needed to provide a lip to support the next sheet of drywall.
> 
> ...


Trim Tex also makes a product called shim on a roll. It comes in 100' rolls the same width as the stud in 2 thicknesses 1/8" and 1/16". Makes shimming out studs easy. I'm 71 and refuse to use the lightweight drywall.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Hi TS, that could have its uses, but when a stud bows on one side it is bowing out on the other. Sometimes I would cut 3/4 of the way through, maybe a couple of cuts, at the mid-point of the bend and Drive a couple of nails in to close the cut, thus straightening the stud. Then a short sister beside it for strength and both sides are straight.

I had chest pain issues and had to do nothing for a couple of months. Wow did that take some effort to get me back on my feet. I have a riding lawn mower, but I told the wife I will be using the walk behind this year. Sure wish they had a gym for fat old guys.

Bud


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## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

JulieMor said:


> I think I have achieved the the status of world's slowest drywaller now. Four days ago I started rocking our master bedroom. It's about 15'x15' and I'm only doing the walls. I think I'm averaging about 45 minutes per sheet with a lot of goofing around thrown in there. Granted, there have been no sheets I haven't had to cut but I think I have mastered the snail's pace.
> 
> And I'm still not done lain:



You have a long way to go to get that status. I have a sheet of drywall in the basement laundry room that was put up with 2 screws about 12 years ago. I keep telling myself I need to finish that job but, other things keep getting in the way


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Don't be so hard on yourself. I'm 34 years old and I have yet to start my first drywall project. Now that's slow!


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## b-boy (Feb 28, 2007)

One of the best items I've used when drywalling.

http://www.amazon.com/Calculated-In...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

When I saw this thread title I thought you were talking about me.

Then I read it.....

Nope, I'm the slowest.


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

b-boy said:


> One of the best items I've used when drywalling.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Calculated-In...&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


I agree. :thumbsup:

Calculated Industries sent me a few of their drywall locating and marking tools to tryout. Another good one is the Center Mark for marking out can lights on drywall ceilings. 
Here's a video I made:


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

danpik said:


> You have a long way to go to get that status. I have a sheet of drywall in the basement laundry room that was put up with 2 screws about 12 years ago. I keep telling myself I need to finish that job but, other things keep getting in the way


Well, I'm trying to compete with that. Since that last pic, not a single piece of drywall has been installed. 

But I did get the double pocket door set. Lots of cipherin' on that one - instructions left a lot of holes...


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## ExpertRoofing (May 23, 2016)

Loving your drywalling job so much hah?! Taking it slowly yet surely. =)


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

ExpertRoofing said:


> Loving your drywalling job so much hah?! Taking it slowly yet surely. =)


Surely you jest, and don't call me Shirley! 

But, moving along...








Yes, believe it or not, the drywall is done. 

And now it's taping time. Did I tell you I hate taping? 

No? 

I will...


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## ExpertRoofing (May 23, 2016)

JulieMor said:


> Surely you jest, and don't call me Shirley!
> 
> But, moving along...
> 
> ...


Looks like you are doing a good job! You'll be done with it soon! Keep rockin! :vs_cool:


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

JulieMor said:


> Surely you jest, and don't call me Shirley!
> 
> But, moving along...
> 
> ...


You did not tape yet in those pics? Why is there compound in the joints?


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

mikegp said:


> You did not tape yet in those pics? Why is there compound in the joints?


I use the term taping to do everything from the tape to final mudding. It's like calling the guys who come in after the drywall, "tapers", even though they mud and sand too.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Ah, got ya. At least you don't have butt joints to worry about.


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

Yeah, not having to deal with butt joints made things easier. In the last house the bulge at the butt joints always bothered me.

All I have left now is some final sanding. I haven't been working in the room because a waterbed project has been keeping my attention. I didn't want the bed to fall too far behind the room because once the room is done, I'll want to move into it and get off that awful futon, but w/o the waterbed being done, it's just an empty space.


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## jte1130 (Jan 8, 2008)

Looks great. I'm about to start my basement as my first drywall project so I'll probably take the lead as the slowest drywaller.

I see your boards are placed vertically. I've noticed some place the boards horizontally which would stack 2 boards on an 8ft wall. Is there any reason to do it one way or the other?


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## JulieMor (Apr 25, 2012)

jte1130 said:


> I see your boards are placed vertically. I've noticed some place the boards horizontally which would stack 2 boards on an 8ft wall. Is there any reason to do it one way or the other?


Some have cited structural rigidity as one of the reasons to install drywall sheets horizontally. If you use 12' long sheets, you will usually end up with less joints. When I built my house, I used all 12' sheets for that reason and installed them horizontally or perpendicular to the joists.

Over 50% of the walls in this room project are cinder block with 2x2 firring. Structural rigidity wasn't a factor there. 

I considered horizontal installation but chose vertical so all joints (except some corners) would be tapered - no butt joints. For this application, it worked out well. The other negative for horizontal is you could end up with the taper being on the bottom and that would affect installing base trim. So you'd have fill the taper, which adds more work.

This picture was taken from a job I worked on several years ago. They chose vertical, too:









In the end, I think it's a personal choice.


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