# Drywall question



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

never done it myself, but can you add a 1/8" shim around the window?
the guys here that deal with this daily will likely have a better solution.

DM


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

plane/sand the jamb


----------



## Vikeologist (Aug 2, 2006)

it is an all vinyl window, so sanding is not really an option...

I have insulation in the wall and a vapor barrier stapled over it. Could i just fir the wall studs out right over the vapor barrier, or will I have to take the vapor barrier down, then fir out the studs, then put the vapor barrier back?

Also the trim that I am puting back on the window is an oak look, so it will not be painted, so caulking or shimming up the trim really isnt an option either.


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

if you use wood firring, i'd pull the vapor barrier and put it under it.
quickfix could be snip up some vinyl siding scraps to fill the gap?

DM


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

orrrrr, maybe squeeze a bead of silicone caulk around the window, set piece flush, allow to dry, then attach the rest of the board?

DM


----------



## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

I would just go ahead an tack on some shims to the studs on that wall over the vapor barrier. Your drywall screws will penetrate the vapor barrier anyway, a couple more holes wont matter much one way or another.


----------



## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

What I have done is put the drywall to the studs and then put a 1/8" shim behind the casing trim.


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

same problem with door in room?


----------



## Vikeologist (Aug 2, 2006)

well I will be replacing the doors, so im not sure how that is going to come out yet...

the problem I have with the window, is that the back of the tub/shower is on that wall...so if I shim out the studs, then my drywall is going to be off to meet the top of the shower surround...


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Vike,
Is the trim you are using real wood or a manmade product? How thick is it at the inside edge? If it is a heavy 1/4" or better, I would cut a rabbet on the back side of the inside edge of the trim the amount the window sits proud of the drywall. Table saw and dado blade would do it. Router table would work also. Cut your trim to fit and it should sit flush on the outside edge without shimming. You could do the same thing around the door. If your trim doesn't allow this, get some other trim. Still the easiest way out.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Vikeologist (Aug 2, 2006)

its from Menards...i believe it is pine, it is already stained


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Vike,
Since it is wood, and stained, then I would get some 1 x pine (3/4" thick) and rip some 1/8" strips. Glue it to the back of the casing, being carefull to line it up with the outside edge. Stain the 1/8" edge to match and seal with some lacquer or poly. When you go to cut the trim, put a piece of the 1/8" material under the inside edge of the casing so it sits flush on your miter box. Once it's up, it shouldn't be noticeable. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## brainberber (Jan 5, 2010)

Vikeologist said:


> I am puting up new drywall on the walls of my bathroom, and I am using moisture resistant drywall on the walls (purple board), but the window in my bathroom sticks out 5/8", but the moisture resistant drywall only comes in 1/2".
> 
> How can I do this to make the drywall match evenly with the window, so the trim fits nicely?


 

buy 5/8 drywall or rip a 2x4 into 1/8 sections and add it to each stud


----------



## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

brainberber said:


> buy 5/8 drywall or rip a 2x4 into 1/8 sections and add it to each stud


It's way easier to shim out the trim than to shim all the studs.


----------



## brainberber (Jan 5, 2010)

yes it is but the seam on the edge of your casing looks like crap (i know, load it with caulk, right?) and very unprofessional...get a couple sheets of 5/8"s for that wall... shim the studs ...or plane down the window...there are always a couple options ...the easy way or the right way lol


----------



## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

brainberber said:


> there are always a couple options ...the easy way or the right way


But it's always nice when they happen to be one and the same!
and he said the window is vinyl, so no planing there....

DM


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Have you tried a drywall supply for 5/8" M.R. board??


----------



## Vikeologist (Aug 2, 2006)

yes i was told the moisture resistant drywall max thickness was 1/2 inch


----------



## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I guess there are differences in the "moisture resistant" board in different areas. You call it "purple" it can also be "green" which is what I'm accustomed to and it does come in 5/8" (firecode actually). With proper ventilation in your bath and proper paint, there's no reason not to use regular 5/8" board. Water resistant board is just what it says, "resistant" to water/moisture. It is by no means water "proof" and probably not as good a product as the "paperless" drywall available if mold is your issue. I think a lot of people are going to extremes worrying about mold issues (which is the "new" asbestos) and overthinking a very simple system that has worked for many years. Regular drywall with the proper paint for "humid" areas and above all, PROPER VENTILATION. My house is 35 years old and has regular drywall in the bath areas and never a hint of mold on the walls (well, maybe the tile)....


----------



## Vikeologist (Aug 2, 2006)

well I did have some mold problems on the ceiling and walls before I gutted it. It would just wipe off with some cleaner.

I did not have an exhaust fan though, which I do have installed now, so that should help a lot with moisture control.

Maybe I will just go with regular drywall then. I already have regular drywall on the ceiling.


----------



## Vikeologist (Aug 2, 2006)

ok my local lumber yard told me to NEVER put moisture resistant drywall on an exterior wall. Is this correct?


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I agree. Shim the studs. Do you have a table saw. Will take no time at all. Why hang 5/8 on an entire wall just to come out to match a window frame? Shims ripped from a couple of 2bys will set this guy back $10?


----------



## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

i dont think you are supposed to put a vapor barrier under greenboard . it creates a double moisture barrier . might want to check on that.


----------



## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

Vikeologist said:


> ok my local lumber yard told me to NEVER put moisture resistant drywall on an exterior wall. Is this correct?


 
yes, you do not want double moisture barriers ...


----------



## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

Vikeologist said:


> ok my local lumber yard told me to NEVER put moisture resistant drywall on an exterior wall. Is this correct?


 
i've never heard that before. Anybody ? and reason please.

shim out the studs as advised...fast ... and you won't have to play with
the trim for many hours to get it right.

good luck

PS
moisture resistant board is not a vapor barrier.. yes one does not want to make a "pocket"


----------



## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

If by chance you installed the "green board"... we ain't got no purple board round dez parts. You could install the trim and float some drywall compound 2 wide knifes wide to blend your problem away.:thumbsup: 

The best solution for you is based on what you feel confortable doing. Your the only one that knows. Lots of ways to skin this cat.

There are six ways to do anything. Out of those six...three are pretty good... the best solution is whatever the mechanic doing the work is the most comfortable with. They know their skill level and the tools they have to get it done.


----------



## oldrivers (May 2, 2009)

PS
moisture resistant board is not a vapor barrier.. yes one does not want to make a "pocket"[/quote]
----------------------

not trying to start anything but isnt that sort of an oxymoron . 

moisture resistent board is not a vapor barrier but it resists moisture ? vapor is moisture . so yes it sounds like a vapor barrier to me. 

ive hung sheetrock snce the early 80s and that was what the inspectors claimed . infact if you hung greenboard over a vapor barrier they would flag you but things mighy have changed by now havent kept up with current products, im not talking about tile backer etc. :thumbsup:


----------



## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

> I am puting up new drywall on the walls of my bathroom, and I am using moisture resistant drywall on the walls (purple board), but the window in my bathroom sticks out 5/8", but the moisture resistant drywall only comes in 1/2".


Ask for 5/8" Densarmor Plus Fire Guard Type X.



> I have insulation in the wall and a vapor barrier stapled over it.


IRC R702.4.3 *Limitations.* Water-resistant gypsum backing board shall not be used in the following locations:
1. Over a vapor retarder in a shower or bathtub compartment.
2. Where there will be direct exposure to water, or in areas subject to continuous high humidity.


----------

