# Replacing Prehung Front Entry Door in Stucco



## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

What should I expect to be included on the labor end of installation of a single pre-hung front entry door? i.e. My first proposal includes: "Remove existing wood door and install owner;s door into opening. Secure with tapcons into existing block opening. Add jamb extensions to door along with new casing. Putty,prep and painting of jamb and door by others. Caulk exterior jamb at new stucco surface with white urethane caulking."

ALSO:

The threshold on the new pre-hung door is 3/4" shorter than my current threshold; 1.5" shorter, if you include the exterior molding strip. The 3rd pic down shows a pencil mark where the new threshold would reach, if I keep the new pre-hung door flush with walls on the inside. The 1st installer says I have 2 options but either way, I will lose the exterior molding strip & not be able to replace it:

1) Keep the new pre-hung door flush with walls on the inside & fill in the gap left in the front with more stucco, which means I have to hire a stucco guy.
2) Push the new pre-hung door forward to stucco and then add strips of wood on the inside to make it flush with the walls.

All helpful thoughts & opinions are greatly appreciated, Thanks!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

All helpful thoughts & opinions are greatly appreciated, Thanks!


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

If it was me replacing that door I'd do just about anything not to disturb the stucco. If you're staying with the out-swing I hope you're installing security hinges.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Same thing I said at the other play.

Go inswing and move it in. Trim out the interior.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

kwikfishron said:


> If it was me replacing that door I'd do just about anything not to disturb the stucco. If you're staying with the out-swing I hope you're installing security hinges.


Any suggestions on how not to disturb the stucco? Security hinges sound like a great idea, thanks!


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> Same thing I said at the other play.
> 
> Go inswing and move it in. Trim out the interior.


I confirmed with local building dept that all ingress/egress doors must be outswing per Florida Building Code for High Wind Hurricane Zones (HWHZ)


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Do you want to move the door location in the jamb at all?

If not just trim the stucco connection to the door with an angle grinder and a diamond blade to make sure there is no connection and that will spare the stucco damage for the most part. If you chip a part of it, you can either trim it out or cut the stucco flush with the same angle grinder and just move the door out slightly.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> Do you want to move the door location in the jamb at all?...


I have no preference as to whether or not the door moves location in the jamb unless there's something I'm not considering. As I understand, I have 2 options: 

1) Keep the new out-swing pre-hung door flush with walls on the inside & fill in the gap left in the front with more stucco, which means I have to hire a stucco guy.

2) Push the new out-swing pre-hung door forward to stucco and then add strips of wood on the inside to make it flush with the walls.

Thanks!


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

If you cut back the stucco cleanly, you can trim the exterior with a PVC lumber ripped down as an exterior extension jamb of sorts.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks! 
Any thoughts on trying to save the existing exterior molding, which sits between the jamb & the stucco by separating the jamb from the molding? Thus not disturbing the stucco at all.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Angle grinder with a masonry blade.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks!
FWIW, looks like I may have to scrap the idea of saving the existing brick mold.

That said, I'm confused whether I need to cut straight in from the front and just take a small "slice" out of each side to make the opening wider...

OR

Cut inside the openings and "carve out" the piece of brick mold from the side of the opening yet leaving the front stucco for the door to butt up against?

Also, any particular grinder blades you like?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you want to leave the outside trim in place, you can cut the nails that are holding the outside trim on. Use a metal cutting blade in your reciprocating saw, cut between the jamb and the outside trim. Pull the old jamb out from inside.

The hard part is getting another door back in the same place with all the margins right. If you do need to move the outside trim just a little or remove it after the door is out, use the same blade and cut the stucco away from the trim but cut in a slow speed very careful as not to disturb the stucco. It can be done, I have done it both ways. By the way, you can trash the blade after cutting the stucco.


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## a1481155 (Dec 2, 2012)

Thanks!
FWIW, It appears the solid door I bought is typically used for garage entry doors so, I may just use this door on the garage and get a nicer door with full view impact glass for the front entry. That said, Ideally, what measurements would you look for? 

OLD FRAME 38 1/4" x 81 3/4" x 5"
OLD DOOR SLAB 36 1/4" x 80 1/4"

Also, any particular grinder & blades you like for this job?


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