# A/C Not blowing cold air!



## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Good evening!

My A/C is blowing out air, just not cold air. Fans inside and out are all working fine (this happens every summer). I turned off the electricity inside and out and opened the side panel. I found a burnt wire attaching to the capacitor but the capacitor does not seem damaged with the exception of rust. It is not swollen or leaking. Could the burnt wire be the problem? It seems as if the repairmen that come out every summer are always replacing something electrical.

Thanks!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Looks like someone put in a single capacitor, instead of a dual.

Look at the wiring diagram. It should show if you need a dual or single capacitor. or has someone installed 2 capacitors.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Sorry it took me a while to reply, but yes there are 2 capacitors. The other I believe is connected to the fan.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Those connectors came become loose and brittle from heat and age.

Cap may or may not be weak.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

I am going to start with replacing the burnt wire any further suggestions after this?


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## Marty S. (Oct 31, 2009)

Replace all those rusted connectors while you're in there. Poor or loose connections burn the wires like that.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

What Marty said.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Thanks! Do you think that this is why the AC is not blowing cool air? Or is it more than this?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Well. With that wire off. The outdoor unit can't run. So yes, its causing no cooling.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Ok, let me rephrase my question. I disconnected the wire myself so I am aware that it won't work without it being reconnected. My question is this, due to the wire being burnt up the way it was, is that the possible reason for the non-cooling and should I go ahead replace the capacitor even though it appears to be in good shape?


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## hennyh (Nov 14, 2006)

hearmeroar874 said:


> Ok, let me rephrase my question. I disconnected the wire myself so I am aware that it won't work without it being reconnected. My question is this, due to the wire being burnt up the way it was, is that the possible reason for the non-cooling and should I go ahead replace the capacitor even though it appears to be in good shape?


Why have you concluded that the capacitor is in good shape? Just because it hasn't exploded, bulged or leaked does not mean it's in good shape.

I would guess that wire got too hot because of high current flow, a very hot cap connector, excess resistance or combination of all 3. That could have come about because the capacitor's electolyte is drying out or it's developing internal shorts. Maybe even it's capacitance has changed due to age.

The short answer is yes. Fix the connector AND replace the cap.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

All burnt wires should be replaced. Unless you tested the capacitor. You don't know that its in good shape. It may be what caused the wires/wire to burn.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Thank you those were the answers I was looking for. Wires have been replaced but it did not make a difference therefore as you all suggested the cap will get replaced.


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## NitrNate (May 27, 2010)

was the compressor running? if the compressor was running and it was blowing warm air that would indicate a different problem.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Yes as far as I could tell the compressor is running


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

*Testing the components*

Test the capacitor with your volt meter. After disconnecting the wires to the cap, discharge it by making a connection between the two terminals with a screwdriver blade. Next, with your electrical meter set to ohms, connect one lead wire to each of the terminals. If the ohm reading starts high, then drops to a lower reading, your capacitor is charging. Next, remove the leads from the terminals, switch your meter to DC Volts (not AC), then again connect one lead to each terminal. The reading should start high and slowly drop. If so, your capacitor is discharging. If this is not happening, replace the cap. ALWAYS use the same voltage as the original cap, but you can increase the mfd (micro farads) rating by 10%. 

Test the amp draw of the compressor on start up and running - remember, the compressor has two sets of windings, start and run. Just because one is good doesn't mean they both are. And make sure your system is not overcharged with refrigerant as well. This can lock the rotor and cause the wires to overheat, increasing resistance, causing more heat, etc.

Has anyone checked that the basic incoming voltage is okay? Look for between 208 and 240 Vac.

http://www.completeheating.ca


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Mr. Glen this is awesome information for me. All this is new and it would've been great if someone had shared this with me before. I must admit defeat, I finally gave up and called someone. However, I did take notes from your information so I will know what to do next year, because this seems to happen every summer. Yes, of course, I need a new AC but who the heck can afford those things right now.

I will post tomorrow and let everyone know the end results. I do have to say I am rather proud of myself for being able to replace a simple thing such as burnt wires.

Thanks again Mr. Glen!:thumbsup:


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## hennyh (Nov 14, 2006)

Glen McIver said:


> ALWAYS use the same voltage as the original cap, but you can increase the mfd (micro farads) rating by 10%.


I agree with everything you said except for the above.

You can (and should IMHO) increase the voltage tolerance of a cap. Using a 440V instead of a 370V is percectly acceptable and will likely be a better cap from a reliability standpoint.

However I would not increase the capacitance unless it's only temporary. The manufacturers chose these capacitance values for a reason. I would stick with them if possible. What if the value was originally 50 mfd and a tech substitutes a 55. Now the next time another tech. substitutes a 60 instead of a 55. Now you're well over 20% out of spec. Don't assume techs. doublecheck manufacturer's schematics when replacing components.

If a tech. has to deviate from the original value they should clearly tag it showing the original value. This practice probably never happens during the rush to get these systems up and running and on to the next call.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

OK, so my current cap has 440 VAC/B on it. If it is replaced I should make sure it's replaced with the same. Did I understand this correctly?


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## hennyh (Nov 14, 2006)

hearmeroar874 said:


> OK, so my current cap has 440 VAC/B on it. If it is replaced I should make sure it's replaced with the same. Did I understand this correctly?


Yes, same or higher. (never lower)


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

hennyh said:


> I agree with everything you said except for the above.
> 
> You can (and should IMHO) increase the voltage tolerance of a cap. Using a 440V instead of a 370V is percectly acceptable and will likely be a better cap from a reliability standpoint.
> 
> ...


By incresing the voltage rating you also increase wattage thereby overheating and shortening the life of the start windings. Yes, it will work, but only for a short time. If you do this, budget for a compressor swap in the near future.

A tech should also be able to run the numbers on the unit to determine the original cap. If not, they can always read the schematic wiring diagram.


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

hearmeroar874 said:


> Mr. Glen this is awesome information for me. All this is new and it would've been great if someone had shared this with me before. I must admit defeat, I finally gave up and called someone. However, I did take notes from your information so I will know what to do next year, because this seems to happen every summer. Yes, of course, I need a new AC but who the heck can afford those things right now.
> 
> I will post tomorrow and let everyone know the end results. I do have to say I am rather proud of myself for being able to replace a simple thing such as burnt wires.
> 
> Thanks again Mr. Glen!:thumbsup:


You're welcome. Post the make, model and serial # tomorrow, along with your service person's diagnosis. Also ask for liquid line and vapour line pressures, outdoor and indoor air temp (wet or dry bulb) and a coil temp drop.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Great :thumbsup:! While we are at it what else should I make sure he does correctly? And is $38 a lb for refrigerant expensive?


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

hearmeroar874 said:


> Great :thumbsup:! While we are at it what else should I make sure he does correctly? And is $38 a lb for refrigerant expensive?


R22 or R410a? US dollars?



hearmeroar874 said:


> Great :thumbsup:! While we are at it what else should I make sure he does correctly? And is $38 a lb for refrigerant expensive?


.......................and clean the contactor.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Don't know what type of refrigerant yet and yes, US Dollars.

I will post everything tomorrow.


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## hennyh (Nov 14, 2006)

Glen McIver said:


> By incresing the voltage rating you also increase wattage thereby overheating and shortening the life of the start windings. Yes, it will work, but only for a short time. If you do this, budget for a compressor swap in the near future.


What????

Voltage tolerance is the max. safe voltage to avoid damage to the cap. Capacitance determines current flow based on the impedance of the circuit.

Its like substituting a 10 watt resistor in place of a 5 watt resistor. Or using a 16 AWG extension cord in place of a 18AWG extension cord. Tolerance is a different concept then capacitance. The circuit will be just as happy but it'll cost a tad more and take up a tad more space.

Maybe you should take a refresher course in basic electrical circuits.

P.S. Maybe we should tell Amrad that their replacement 440V Turbo Caps are putting millions of HVAC systems at risk.:laughing:


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Glen McIver said:


> By incresing the voltage rating you also increase wattage thereby overheating and shortening the life of the start windings. Yes, it will work, but only for a short time. If you do this, budget for a compressor swap in the near future.
> 
> A tech should also be able to run the numbers on the unit to determine the original cap. If not, they can always read the schematic wiring diagram.


On a run cap. The voltage rating. is the insulation value in the cap. Not its charging voltage.

So going from a 370 to a 440 has no effect on the winding of the compressor.


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

hennyh said:


> What????
> 
> Voltage tolerance is the max. safe voltage to avoid damage to the cap. Capacitance determines current flow based on the impedance of the circuit.
> 
> ...


 
On an AC sinewave we know that Eav= 0.637 Epk. We also know that your voltmeter reading is actually an effective (rms) value as opposed to an instantaineous or peak-to-peak (Single phase only) Vac value, so we can apply the formula of Eeff = 0.707 Epk. 

Next, let's add the parameters of 240 Vac (rms) +/- 10% (as allowed by the power authority) to find Vpk, within the rms range of 208 - 264 Vac. Simple enough. Your house current's true range of voltage (not the measured range on your meter) is between 294.2 and 373.4 Volts. 

So what happens during voltage spike when you add capacitor that allows for a higher voltage that the system was designed for? (Hint: C = Q/E) Using a higher voltage capacitor will work, but why would you remove the safety factor? 

Why do you think the insulation on your house wiring is rated at 600 volts? Why do you think you can't find household electrical items that comsume more than 1500 watts when a 15 amp circuit can supply 1800 watts before tripping the breaker? Simple. A margin of safety is factored in.

And maybe I should take a refresher course in basic electrical circuits, after all, it's been 19 years since I earned my degree.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Ok, boys back to your corners :no:!

So this is my bad news... one of windings (if my terminology is incorrect please accept my apologies and correct me gently) in the compressor terminal is "wide open" measuring very high, the other two were around 2.6ohms and 1.3ohms. (Tech measured these) Also the orange wire (run wire? is that right) was connected to the bad winding and burnt up like a piece of paper! Results NEED A NEW COMPRESSOR!!!!! So to cut expenses I am looking for a good used compressor because I'm broke like the majority of the world! My tech referred me to someone but I can't get a hold of this guy. Two weeks of no AC in humid ass Florida is cause for an act of insanity!!!!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

take a rubber mallet. And smack the compressor. It might reset the internal over load, if its stuck. if it doesn't, then the winding may have burnt up.

Used equipment is often a bad idea.

I know where you can get one real cheap though. Your's, its used.

Find out what warranty you get with it.

Also, have your tech find out why yours burnt up.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Hate to say it but there is no such thing as a GOOD used compressor. If it comes from someone else's system it may have moisture or acid or contaminants from their system which can now damage yours. Compressors and their valves wear out. It may have had a power surge. You may be throwing good $$ after bad IMO.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

So used compressor is a bad idea!

The wire was burnt pretty bad so I don't think the rubber mallet idea will work. It might work for my release of frustration!! :furious:

My unit is a TRANE xe 900 MF Date: Stone Age (April 1988)
MOD # TTD724A100A0
Ser # C15215912

With that said do I replace with a new compressor or get a new unit all together?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

New unit/system.

While replacing both the outdoor unit, and the indoor coil is expensive. You get a full parts warranty.
And lower cooling bill.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

A 22 year old indoor coil may not last very long and then the wife will be REALLY happy with you for making a poor choice of repair vs replace. The coil is 8 SEER and obsolete. Better to go with a new higher efficiency system. Check if there are any rebates from your elec utility and goverrnent.


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

beenthere said:


> take a rubber mallet. And smack the compressor. It might reset the internal over load, if its stuck. if it doesn't, then the winding may have burnt up.
> 
> Used equipment is often a bad idea.
> 
> ...


Excellent advice.



hearmeroar874 said:


> So used compressor is a bad idea!
> 
> The wire was burnt pretty bad so I don't think the rubber mallet idea will work. It might work for my release of frustration!! :furious:
> 
> ...


Yuri is right - there is no such thing as a good used compressor. 

It's time to upgrade to a new R410a system.


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## Glen McIver (Jul 29, 2010)

hearmeroar874 said:


> Ok, boys back to your corners :no:!
> 
> So this is my bad news... one of windings (if my terminology is incorrect please accept my apologies and correct me gently) in the compressor terminal is "wide open" measuring very high, the other two were around 2.6ohms and 1.3ohms. (Tech measured these) Also the orange wire (run wire? is that right) was connected to the bad winding and burnt up like a piece of paper! Results NEED A NEW COMPRESSOR!!!!! So to cut expenses I am looking for a good used compressor because I'm broke like the majority of the world! My tech referred me to someone but I can't get a hold of this guy. Two weeks of no AC in humid ass Florida is cause for an act of insanity!!!!


2.6 ohms and 1.3 ohms are very, very low numbers. In a "wide open" circuit the ohm reading would surpass the 10,000,000 ohm mark on a good meter. If the metered circuit read 1.3 or 2.6 ohms, you have a short circuit in the windings which explains your situation. What you should normally expect to see is a low ohm reading that climbs to a high ohm reading because your meter is sending through a small amount of current to test the resistance. As the windings become charged, an eddy current surrounds the coiled wiring and forms an electromagnetic field that resists the flow of current and causes an increase in the ohm reading.

Getting accurate readings depends on the quality of the meter. I've had millwrights with 30 years experience tell me to my face that I was absolutely wrong, only to replace the part I said to and have myself proven right. I'm still owed a few apologies. Anyways, electronics are a funny thing because you can't 'see' what is happening. Always go with the science.

By the way, the bad news is that it's time to replace your a/c.


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## jomama (Jul 31, 2010)

i am missing something here was the unit running or not?did you have to reset breaker or replace fuses to start unit when you ohm the compressor term one will always be higher than the others its the start winding a hermetic compressor analyzer is the best way to confirm its dead or you can't reset your breaker is the other good clue its dead.there are very few mech that can really condemn a herm compressor or unless the tech is paid on commission the its easy to condemn it


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

The unit runs, however when the tech was looking at the wiring to the terminal the wires were burnt severly. 

Working on a budget here (which is close to nothing) I can't afford a new unti. I was looking at Grainger on line but can't figure out what compressor to get, please inform.

By the by Yuri I have no wife because I am a female. Shocked?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

No, we have some regular female posters but most of us techs are old school "good ole boys".:laughing::thumbup:
I would suggest a second opinion from another company w/o telling them what the first one said. The internal overload may have now reset, but it is rare they trip unless the unit has been severely overheated etc. There may be more problems. That is a likely a Trane compressor with special fittings and only their compressor will fit. A few use generic compressors but only a tech can determine how to make it fit. Not something you can figure out online.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

yuri said:


> No, we have some regular female posters but most of us techs are old school "good ole boys".:laughing::thumbup:
> I would suggest a second opinion from another company w/o telling them what the first one said. The internal overload may have now reset, but it is rare they trip unless the unit has been severely overheated etc. That is a likely a Trane compressor with special fittings and only their compressor will fit. A few use generic compressors but only a tech can determine how to make it fit. Not something you can figure out online.


I'm a "good ole gal" that's been taught by her father to be independent! :wink: So with that said it's great to be able to learn from the 'good ole boys'.

Can you explain how the internal overload may have reset itself? If it did reset is that a good thing and then can I just replace the wires or no?

In regards to the fuse: When my roommate came home she said that the air was not on and found the unit tripped off. She turned it on and this is when it stopped blowing cold air. It was still running and blowing out air just not cold. 

In regards to the windings: There were three windings, one read 1.3ohms, the other 2.6ohms, and the third (which is where the burnt up orange wire was attached) registered very high I didn't even see it register a number.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

It is a heat operated switch buried in the windings of the compressor. If the wire was loose and corroded and reduced the voltage to the compressor then the amps draw went up and the compressor may have overheated (and been damaged). I would want a skilled tech present when the wiring is fixed and the compressor re-started. If there is a bigger problem it may literally burn out/catch fire inside the shell and contaminate the system with acid etc. Then it is REALLY expensive to repair. A fan of Helen Reddy are you?


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

yuri said:


> It is a heat operated switch buried in the windings of the compressor. If the wire was loose and corroded and reduced the voltage to the compressor then the amps draw went up and the compressor may have overheated (and been damaged). I would want a skilled tech present when the wiring is fixed and the compressor re-started. If there is a bigger problem it may literally burn out/catch fire inside the shell and contaminate the system with acid etc. Then it is REALLY expensive to repair. A fan of Helen Reddy are you?


Sorry, I can't say I'm very familiar with Helen Reddy :confused1:.

It sounds like I'm just gonna have to either replace compressor all together or new unit. It'll be next year when I have enough money to do so but oh well, I grew up with no air guess I can do it again! 
:sweatdrop:


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Your name is similar to some of her lyrics:http://www.lyricsdepot.com/helen-reddy/i-am-woman.html
A popular song back in my ole days.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

yuri said:


> Your name is similar to some of her lyrics:http://www.lyricsdepot.com/helen-reddy/i-am-woman.html
> A popular song back in my ole days.


 
I see I see!:thumbup:


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

Ok HVAC Gentlemen or Ladies if out there,

The decision has been made! A new unit it will be! 

Please talk to me about some of the best units with best warranty with a fairly inexpensive price. I've heard I should get a 13 seer (I know it's not the energy saver that gets a tax credit but it's the least expensive). 

The cooling/heating area of the house is approximately 1200 sqft (a little less).

How does this effect my heating?

Do I stick with a 2 ton cooling?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

We don't do a lot of brand choosing for people because everyone sells their own brand and feelings can get hurt. You do tend to get what you pay for. The higher end and more expensive you go the quieter they get. The major players Lennox, Carrier, etc tend to use better quality Copeland compressors and the el cheapos generic no name builders grade compressors. They will wear out after 15 yrs, trust me, especially in your heavy use climate. Most units if installed by a reputable company will work well. The XC series of Lennox has 10 yr compressor warranty and the lower series a 5 yr warranty. Beaware of that when choosing, ask for the compressor warranty. You can buy extended warranties thru the manufacturer but they cost $$. Do a heat load calc for a few $$ to make sure of your size:Load Calculator


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

yuri said:


> Do a heat load calc for a few $$ to make sure of your size:Load Calculator


Thank you! I know it's hard to make recommendations on brands. I take what is advised and compare and research if you guys give me different opinions. I just want to know what's out there. For instance: I saw a brand name of Feeder and I said to myself, "Self, who are these people and do you really want to waste your time looking into to them?". Self said, "No!" and looked elsewhere.

In regards to the load calculator this answers my last 2 questions correct:
How does this effect my heating?and Do I stick with a 2 ton cooling? 

Thanks Yuri for the advice.

I have come to enjoy this chatroom a lot!


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

It is Fedders and they are a resurrected version of a old company. The load calc will verify the size for you. Even though a compressor may say Copeland these companies are so huge they can spec a cheaper version of anything. The major players tend not to do that on their higher end units as they have paid a LOT of advertising dollars and don't want to lose their name brand recognition. At least brand L doesn't. Send me a private message PM if you want my unbiased advice.


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## moondawg (Dec 17, 2008)

hearmeroar874 said:


> Thank you! I know it's hard to make recommendations on brands. I take what is advised and compare and research if you guys give me different opinions. I just want to know what's out there. For instance: I saw a brand name of Feeder and I said to myself, "Self, who are these people and do you really want to waste your time looking into to them?". Self said, "No!" and looked elsewhere.
> 
> In regards to the load calculator this answers my last 2 questions correct:
> How does this effect my heating?and Do I stick with a 2 ton cooling?
> ...


In this case, I would skip a load calc IF you old unit was adequately providing enough heating/cooling. 

If your old unit wasn't keeping up with the hottest days, you might step up a half-ton in rating. If it wasn't ever keeping up, then do a load calc to determine what size unit you'd need.

Also keep in mind that if your unit was marginal, it may be cheaper to add insulation than to upgrade your heating. Just some thoughts.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

moondawg said:


> In this case, I would skip a load calc IF you old unit was adequately providing enough heating/cooling.
> 
> If your old unit wasn't keeping up with the hottest days, you might step up a half-ton in rating. If it wasn't ever keeping up, then do a load calc to determine what size unit you'd need.
> 
> Also keep in mind that if your unit was marginal, it may be cheaper to add insulation than to upgrade your heating. Just some thoughts.



The unit was heating and cooling the majority of the house; however, the two back bedrooms were always the coldest (winter) or hottest (summer). I do need to replace my windows and the master bathroom is barely insulated at all. It was an add on way before I bought the house.


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## moondawg (Dec 17, 2008)

hearmeroar874 said:


> Thank you! I know it's hard to make recommendations on brands. I take what is advised and compare and research if you guys give me different opinions. I just want to know what's out there. For instance: I saw a brand name of Feeder and I said to myself, "Self, who are these people and do you really want to waste your time looking into to them?". Self said, "No!" and looked elsewhere.
> 
> In regards to the load calculator this answers my last 2 questions correct:
> How does this effect my heating?and Do I stick with a 2 ton cooling?
> ...


In this case, I would skip a load calc IF you old unit was adequately providing enough heating/cooling. 

If your old unit wasn't keeping up with the hottest days, you might step up a half-ton in rating. If it wasn't ever keeping up, then do a load calc to determine what size unit you'd need.

Also keep in mind that if your unit was marginal, it may be cheaper to add insulation than to upgrade your heating. Just some thoughts.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Do a load calc.

Very well could be that a 1.5 ton unit will cool your house better.

Those 2 back rooms may not be getting as much air as they need because your 2 ton is oversized, and your duct system is undersixed for a 2 ton unit.

A 1.5 ton wouldn't force as much air out the nearest registers. So it would run longer, and provide more heat, and cooling for those back rooms by running longer.

Just increasing unit size, could case a lot of additional problems, that you haven't had with your current unit. Such as the indoor coil freezing up at mild outdoor temps. High indoor humidity at mild, average outdoor temps. Which would cause you to set your thermostat lower to be just as comfortable as you use to be. And end up increasing your cooling bill.

Might find that your furnace is grossly oversized. And by getting the right size furnace. It also improves the temp in those back rooms also.


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## jomama (Jul 31, 2010)

are you going to install unit yourself or have a contractor install unit? if you buy unit yourself you may have warranty problems .


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

I will definitely have someone install the new unit WHEN I can get one.

My next question is this: I realize the compressor doesn't have part in the heating; however, my thermostat runs both. Will my heat run in the winter? (Because it'll be that long until I have a/c)

Got a portable unit yesterday, works well enough!


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Your heat is independent of the outdoor unit.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

So as long as there are no problems with my indoor unit I should be fine?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

hearmeroar874 said:


> So as long as there are no problems with my indoor unit I should be fine?


Yes. The indoor should still work fine.


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## jomama (Jul 31, 2010)

as long as it is not a heat pump sys


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

In that case. The strip heat would still work.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

I honestly don't know what kind of heating system I have. I know the unit sits in the hall closet and it's the same system the AC works off of. Is that considered a furnace?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Is it gas? As in do you get a gas bill.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

No it's all electric


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Then your heat will be from electric strip heaters. And that cost more to use then the heat pump does. A lot more. 3 plus times as much.


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## hearmeroar874 (Jul 27, 2010)

So when I get my new unit inside what should I be inquiring about in regards to the heating?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Well. Your pics of your outdoor unit look to indicate that you have a straight A/C, with electric furnace. So when I said it will cost more. Thats not true. If you only have electric strip heat to begin with. I jumped the gun on cost of heating.

If your in an area that uses heat for more then 2 to 4 weeks. Might want to think about getting a heat pump. It would pay for its increase in cost over a A/C in less then 2 years. Possibly in 1 year if you have a 5 or 6 moth heating season.


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