# Replacing T-111 with Hardiplank



## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

Hello, I want to remove the T-111 that is on our brick and frame house. It is basically stick built with the front brick facade. There is 1/2 inch foil covered,(one side only), foam insulation on the outer surface of the studs. Would it be better to remove that foam insulation, replacing it with Unbacked fiberglass, cover that with Tyvek and/or vapor barrier and then install the Hardiplank? Here in north east Florida we have generally mild winters and horribly hot and humid spring & summer. The summers last about 6 months and the winters about 3-4 with occasional dips to 30 degrees. Thanks forany advice.
BIOA


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## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

Personal opinion, I think the you should yank the foam barrier. It WILL disintegrate over time. 

Don't overstuff the cavities with insulation. I would imagine that you are on 2x4 studs 16" OC. Probably R-13 will work. Anything more will defeat the purpose of the insulation by compressing the air space.


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

*Replacing T-111with Hardiplank*

Thanks Randell. I want to tear it all out and start fresh as this house was probably built on spec and as cheaply as possible from what I have seen doing repairs and renovations on the inside.
BIOA


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## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

You're gonna love the Hardiplank! I've used it on some guest cottages and on the underpinning for my house. It's near perfect!


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

Yes, I think that it is a great product. I installed it on a friends home that was a 150 year old heart pine Florida cracker house. Although we screwed his on, I will probably use a pneumatic nailer to do mine. The nails will be a lot faster. The big question I have is how to handle the vapor barrier thing. Do I use a backed fiberglass insulation or use unbacked and staple on plastic sheet? And, in north Florida where the winters can cold for short periods, but the summers long, hot and humid, should I put the plastic vapor barrier on the inside or the outside of the insulation?
BIOA


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## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

If you are removing the interior wall board, then yes use backed insulation with the PAPER vapor barrier. Then, apply the Tyvek to the exterior under the hardiplank. Don't use plastic under any circumstances. You want your house to breathe.


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks again Randell. I wasn't going to replace the sheetrock/wallboard, but once I remove the T-111 and the old foam insulation I can install the paper backed F/G insulation from the outside before installing the Hardiplank.
BIOA


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

It seems to me you all are missing something. The T 111 is acting as both the sheathing and the finish siding. I thing after you install the new insulation and vapor barrier, you should install new 1/2 inch plywood or OSB to act as sheathing before installing the Hardiboard, This may be required by your building code (you were going to pull a permit?). The sheathing adds structural integrity and ties the wall down to the sills.


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## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

DOH! You're absolutely right. I was only thinking about the insulation and not the structural aspect of his project.


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

Whoops! I wasn't planning to use a plywood sheathing as I thought the Hardiplank was strong enough. I wanted to get away from the plywood due to the termite/moisture/damp rot problem as much as possible. Also, to repair or renovate ones' own home, I didn't think a permit was required. I thought that one was needed only on new construction. 
BIOA


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## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

If you keep the sheathing from coming in contact with the ground, and use a good house wrap (TYVEK) then you won't have the problems you mentioned.
This is how most houses are built now days.

You would use house sheathing and not plywood.


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

Got it! Thanks.
BIOA


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

In case you haven't come across it yet, I'm inserting the instructions for Hardie Plank siding from the manufacturer. We prefer to use Stainless Steel ring shank nails to minumize nail bleeding. 
Also consider pre-painted siding, color-matched caulking, the color repair kit, cement board blades(dust reducer), Bear Clips (ease of installation and ventilation).

Hardie Plank Installation Instructions:
http://www.jameshardie.com/pdf/install/install_plank_south.pdf

Bear Clips: http://www.bearclip.com/


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks for those links Atlantic. I had only the instructions that came with the product, but the PDF is much better. It advises you of all of the proper aspects of installation. I like the Bear clips, but when I did my friends house I made a jig with a rabbet cut into it to get the right overlap. The Bear Clips, though look like they will make it much easier, especially since I will have little or no help this time. I think in the long run they will be worth the price. 
BIOA


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Most communtities require permits for new siding. Even if not required the Hardiboard is not sheathing and does not supply structural integrity. If you are worried about moisture ,definatly use a house wrap and consider pressure treated plywood for sheathing(exp[ensive).


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

OK, thanks RJ. I will inquire about the permit. I am not overly concerned with moisture, but the humidity is usually high here. The sheathing will not be in contact with the ground as I have dug a shallow trench around the perimeter of the house and there is no water spray from sprinklers, etc.
I definitely will use the Tyvek, (Lowes has their own brand, which is probably the same-free advertising for them during home construction), and whatever sheathing is available from the big orange or big blue box. I will nail the hardiplank on with 2 3/8" galvanized pneumatic nails. 
Atlantic WB also sent me a link for the Bear Clips which seem to be a great aid to installation.
BIOA


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## skymaster (Jun 6, 2007)

Only note here is that you really *cannot* install your insulation from the outside. The kraft paper face has flanges that have to be stapled from the inside!. Proper way is to strip the exterior and finish that, then strip interior, do any changes to the electrical, inspect any plumbing, then insulate, re-rock etc
IMHO SHEATHING IS A MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OSB or ply


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

D****. This is turning into a major project when all I wanted to do was reside the house and get rid of that T-111 crap! Is there anyway that I can I can add F/G insulation from the outside leaving the foil backed foam in place. Couldn't I use small diameter rods to hold the F/G? To remove all of the wallboard in the house is not only an extensive remodeling but beyond the scope of my finances. I know that it is only my problem, but I am retired from nursing and the ministry and live on a limited budget.
BIOA


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

skymaster said:


> Only note here is that you really *cannot* install your insulation from the outside. The kraft paper face has flanges that have to be stapled from the inside!. Proper way is to strip the exterior and finish that, then strip interior, do any changes to the electrical, inspect any plumbing, then insulate, re-rock etc
> IMHO SHEATHING IS A MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OSB or ply


I am going to replace the T-111 with sheathing, Tyvek, than Hardiplank.
I will just leave the foam/foil insulation if I have to. My plumbing is all under the slab and have no problems with electric. The house is only 25 years old. If it works don't fix it.
BIOA


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## Randell Tarin (Jan 19, 2008)

I would suggest using loose fill fiberglass or cellulose insulation. It requires the placement of two 1-1/2" holes in each cavity at 4' and 7' on your 8 foot wall. The insulation is then blown in from the bottom up.

Then all you have to do is fill the holes. (different thread)


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## leezarrd (Aug 12, 2007)

I can understand why you want to not see T111, but can't you just cover it up with Hardiplanks? Did I miss that something is rotten in there that you need to get rid of?

BTW,,, we are installing Hardiplanks and scoring them on both sides with a utility knife works great (about 6 passes on each side)... no dust to speak of. We love it.


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

leezarrd said:


> I can understand why you want to not see T111, but can't you just cover it up with Hardiplanks? Did I miss that something is rotten in there that you need to get rid of?
> 
> BTW,,, we are installing Hardiplanks and scoring them on both sides with a utility knife works great (about 6 passes on each side)... no dust to speak of. We love it.


Well..., I guess I could leave it on, but all the pros are telling me to remove it. By removing it I can see what, if any damage might have occurred from termites. Scoring and snapping does work well with a lot less dust, it just takes more time.
BIOA


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

re: Cutting the Hardiplank. I saw on a home improvement show about a Guilotine decive to cut the planks, No dust and leaves a slightly rough edge that gives an expansion gap between planks that you caulk. Might check a rental house.


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## BIOA (Jan 24, 2008)

I am still wrestling with this project while I am waiting for the weather to improve. Why couldn't I leave the T-111 on except for removing the lower portion that has deteriorated due to moisture, replace that removed section with sheathing, then Tyvek, then the hardiboard? Wouldn't the T-111 act as sheathing if were all intact and in good condition? Thanks,
BIOA


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