# Any chance of saving this seam?



## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

Any chance of salvaging this seam, or should I cut the whole darn thing out and start over? [It's a tape seam on drywall, built circa 2002].






Haven't ever had a seam let go quite this bad. It's been about like this since we moved in, but has gradually gotten worse. Now that my home improvement hiatus is about over, I'm starting my plans to attack some things. The bedroom is getting a complete gut and rebuild: built-ins, moving TV cabling to opposing wall, repaint, building a platform bed and (eventually) all new furniture. First step is fixing this ceiling though. It is at the peak of the vaulted ceiling, conveniently about 12' high.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

looks like you need to redo the joint, I would use Trim tex, Magic corner bead for that problem. hope that helps.


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## eandjsdad (Dec 22, 2013)

Cut it out and redo it. If the board wasn't floated on that edge when it was installed, it may crack again.


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## digitalplumber (Jul 8, 2011)

Have you checked your foundation?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I agree, all the old tape needs to go.
My biggest fear is with your snow loads may be causing the issue with undersized rafters, improper collar tie nailing pattern, ECT.
I use this for those type angles.
http://www.homedepot.com/s/drywall%20tape?NCNI-5


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## hyunelan2 (Aug 14, 2007)

digitalplumber said:


> Have you checked your foundation?


No issues anywhere else, and this is a 2nd story bedroom, so I'm thinking foundation issue is unlikely. 

Thanks for the help guys. I figured I'd be cutting it out, but didn't want to do it and then have someone down the road say, "you didn't need to cut it all out, all you needed to do was _______ ." After our New Year's guests have left, my wife and I will be moving into the guest bedroom so I can make a mess in here getting it fixed.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I agree, all the old tape needs to go.
> My biggest fear is with your snow loads may be causing the issue with undersized rafters, improper collar tie nailing pattern, ECT.
> I use this for those type angles.
> http://www.homedepot.com/s/drywall%20tape?NCNI-5


That is a cheap knock off of Magic Corner bead. all he should need to do is to redo the joint with it mud and sand repaint.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

http://www.no-coat.com/.docs/pg/10243

no coat is the best product for this type of ceiling. i would cut out the other side and redo it while your up there and painting.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

This is a very common problem with cathedral ceilings. I agree with the no-coat. But with a seam that big I might bed it in hot mud.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i'd use the green lid mud for setting the no coat and going over it with hot mud on your first coat then then a final skim or 2 with a finish mud.


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

princelake said:


> i'd use the green lid mud for setting the no coat and going over it with hot mud on your first coat then then a final skim or 2 with a finish mud.



Green lid on the east coast may not mean the same thing on the west coast.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

I have always used Beadx taping mud better then the green lid stuff plus I have not used USG all purpose mud in years. hardly ever see it at the drywall supply house.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Seattle2k said:


> Green lid on the east coast may not mean the same thing on the west coast.


No kidding....I went to my local building supply and they said "What?"

Here you can get dry bags of 30 min, 40 min and 90 min mud along with Red Dot.

I just did one room of my addition using the 40 min mixture. Much better to use than the regular premix stuff for the initial mudding. It's usually dry in 2 hours ready for sanding.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Yes we get in habits that may not mean the same thing to others. In fact USG makes 2 green lid muds, all purpose with a bright green lid, ultra light in the puke green lid. From now on I will say all purpose, or bright green.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

My 40 min came in a white paper bag with black lettering.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Hot mud or the powdered muds usually come in 2 bags the white bags are Easy Sand. The brown bags a non-sanding.


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