# Junction boxes for garage T8 fixtures



## Jupe Blue (Nov 9, 2008)

Unless it is specifically prohibited in your jurisdiction, the Home Depot guy was right. You can run the wire directly into the light fixture, then on to the next one. Be sure to use a connector and you are good to go. We usually just stub the wire out with a loop of cable when the drywall is installed. Make sure the drywallers don't bury it.


----------



## spark plug (May 5, 2009)

Jupe Blue said:


> Unless it is specifically prohibited in your jurisdiction, the Home Depot guy was right. You can run the wire directly into the light fixture, then on to the next one. Be sure to use a connector and you are good to go. We usually just stub the wire out with a loop of cable when the drywall is installed. Make sure the drywallers don't bury it.


...And what about the Fluorescent supply wires needing to be thermally protected to 90oc??!!


----------



## frenchelectrican (Apr 12, 2006)

SP., If the OP did use the NM-B then it will have 90°C rated conductors in there but if using the older one like NM { with out B letter in there } then it is a 60°C rated conductors. That will raise new issue there. The only way you can slove is run short run of NM-B or the OP did stated he start to wire up the place so with new wires it pretty much MB-B for sure. That is not a issue at all. But check with local code some may have additional requirement. Merci,Marc


----------



## mazeroth (Oct 25, 2009)

I'll post a link to the lights I purchased at the end. The way the lights work is you take the reflector off and then you can see the two bulbs (duh!). The ballast is on one end and the wires are in the middle, between the bulbs. If I were to bring the wires into the light fixture the wire nuts and wires would likely be touching the bulbs, unless I electrical tape them to the top, but I'm not sure if that would hold with the very cold winters we have. Just wanted to throw that out there for you! :thumbsup:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/[email protected]&ddkey=Search


----------



## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

Normally there is a cover plate for the ballast area where the splices are made. Sounds like you might be missing parts.

If you were to install the junction boxes you need access to the whole face of the box. Yes that means a 4" hole in the back of the fixture over the box. The method posted by the OP is not correct.


----------



## mazeroth (Oct 25, 2009)

Jim Port said:


> Normally there is a cover plate for the ballast area where the splices are made. Sounds like you might be missing parts.
> 
> If you were to install the junction boxes you need access to the whole facwe of the box. Yes that means a 4" hole in the back of the fixture over the box. The method posted by the OP is not correct.


The instructions show the need for a junction box and don't show any sort of cover plate for the wires.

I was afraid I would have to cut a full 4" hole in the ceiling. Not like it really matters as it will be covered by the lighting fixture, but I just thought this would be a relatively simple install after talking to the Home Depot "expert". :no:


----------



## specgrade (Oct 24, 2009)

The top of the fixture should have knock outs for an NM-B cable connector, at least mine did. :thumbup:


----------



## mazeroth (Oct 25, 2009)

specgrade said:


> The top of the fixture should have knock outs for an NM-B cable connector, at least mine did. :thumbup:


Yes, it has two knock-outs you can choose. Does this mean I can use a connector and forgo the junction box?


----------



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Jim Port said:


> Normally there is a cover plate for the ballast area where the splices are made. Sounds like you might be missing parts.
> 
> If you were to install the junction boxes you need access to the whole facwe of the box. Yes that means a 4" hole in the back of the fixture over the box. The method posted by the OP is not correct.


Jim, why would you need to access the whole face of the box? Just like a standard ceiling fixture (or wall sconce), you take the fixture down to access the box.

Running the NM cable into a fixture knock-out with a connector is the most common method.


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

When I installed 8' twin bulb fixtures in my shop, I wired in a 14 ga. whip with a molded plug on the end and put outlets in my ceiling boxes and just plugged them in. Haven't had any problems and it makes it easy to replace a unit if it goes bad.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

rjniles said:


> Jim, why would you need to access the whole face of the box? Just like a standard ceiling fixture (or wall sconce), you take the fixture down to access the box.
> 
> Running the NM cable into a fixture knock-out with a connector is the most common method.


Check Article 410.14. Here is a graphic from Mike Holt.


----------



## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Jim Port said:


> Check Article 410.14. Here is a graphic from Mike Holt.


Thanks for the info, Jim.

Learn something all the time from this forum


----------



## specgrade (Oct 24, 2009)

mazeroth said:


> Yes, it has two knock-outs you can choose. Does this mean I can use a connector and forgo the junction box?


 Yes that is what the knock outs are for.:thumbsup:
The light box will serve as the j-box, very common set up.


----------

