# Removing fascia without disturbing roofing membrane or drip edge



## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

I have a rather unique situation. This is a property in South Florida that has a flat roof, and completely re-roofed in 2015, with all new fascia and new drio edge as well. After the re-roof I had the entire house tented and fumigated for termites.

Fast forward almost three years, I have discovered new drywood termites are lurking inside the fascia boards, they have eaten part of the fascia so I can press my finger on the fascia and it will yield a little. I went around the entire house knocking and feeling and it seems only a section of 16' is infected.

There is no roof leak or moisture penetration. The termite tech came and said most likely it's contained in the fascia, but to be on the safe side, I should remove and replace the fascia, and have them spray and soak the exposed rafters once the fascia is removed. Looking at the fascia it means I should remove two 10' sections.

My question is it doesn't seem easy to remove the 1X6 fascia. As shown in the picture below, I know there are nails that secures the fascia to the rafter tails. I may be able to use a pry bar to back those out.





















but there is a 1X2 that's nailed to the fascia, I assume whatever nails used go through the 1X2, the fascia and to the lumber behind that, right?

Are there other nails that I need to worry about?

Is it possible to remove the fascia without disturbing or messing with the drip edge or the membrane on top of it?


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Careful work with a catspaw on the visible nails followed by a sawzall with a metal cutting blade for the hidden ones. What type of roof is it? Some will be easier to DIY a repair (if needed) than others.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would cut is just below the drip cap just the depth of the wood. Good wood will be hard to get out above that but bad wood will be easy to dig out.
A cat's paw is good for digging nails out or you can just knock it out a little and get a re cip saw in there and cut the nails at the rafters. 
https://www.amazon.ca/Shark-21-2016...pID=31igvNkKvDL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

roofermann said:


> Careful work with a catspaw on the visible nails followed by a sawzall with a metal cutting blade for the hidden ones. What type of roof is it? Some will be easier to DIY a repair (if needed) than others.


It's a flat roof so it's asphalt roofing with two plys of 90# paper with hot mopped tar.

I think I can get the nails off between the fascia and the rafter tails. Not so confident of the 1x2 up top.

I assume there is no nails from the top through the roof deck, right?

With a sawzall cutting at an angle through the nails behind the 1x2 there is a high chance of me ripping into the top.

I wonder if the top of the 1x2 is flushed with the top of the fascia (both under the T&G roof deck), or is the 1x2 nailed to the edge of roof deck and higher than the fascia?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

miamicuse said:


> I assume there is no nails from the top through the roof deck, right?


I wouldn't be assuming that...

A cats paw, flat bar, sawzall with a new metal blade, sharp chisel and my trusty hoof clippers are all by my side when I'm digging out fascia like that.

The clippers will cut any nails coming down from the top.
I never leave home without them.:biggrin2:


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Unless it is far wider drip edge than I've ever seen the nails holding it in place are driven into the fascia. Reasoning: You have a 1x2 nailed to the fascia, that = at least 1.5" then a 2x fascia that's another 1.5 That is 3" total. I've never seen a drip edge wider than 3.5".


Didn't you get a warranty with your treatment? Or is one of those that just treats again and doesn't warrant any damage?


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## miamicuse (Nov 13, 2011)

Colbyt said:


> Unless it is far wider drip edge than I've ever seen the nails holding it in place are driven into the fascia. Reasoning: You have a 1x2 nailed to the fascia, that = at least 1.5" then a 2x fascia that's another 1.5 That is 3" total. I've never seen a drip edge wider than 3.5".
> 
> 
> Didn't you get a warranty with your treatment? Or is one of those that just treats again and doesn't warrant any damage?


The 1x2 and the 1x6 fascia add to a total depth of 1.5", not 3". The drip edge is 3".

The warranty is one year only, and it's a huge hassle to move out for a few days to re-fumigate anyways.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

That could become more work than expected, esp if the soffit material is nailed to the facia as well. What about drilling holes in the facia and spraying? Then cover with a metal sheet?
I also thought about borax mixed spray foam but, never mind, since foam would become a blockage if respraying in the future.
Is the soffit accessible from inside the attic? If the facia is infested, you have to think about the rafter, cleats and the roof deck as well. How long infested, etc. I would not want to walk on that part of the roof.
Probably not my life time, but with the warming trend, I hope those dry termites don't make it to NJ.:smile:


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

I really don't know if this will work or better long term, but the borax and this applicator (less waste) worked for my ants.
I just took the image off the net. So not the can spray. Just the powder and the air pump off amazon.


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