# Alternative to 'flex wrap' for flashing?



## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

What alternatives do I have for flashing my door besides tyvek's flex wrap, which the local hardware store wants to charge 170 dollars for a 7" X 25' roll.  

Obviously that is the easy route, but I can't find any products that are similar at all. Am I stuck with metal flashing? ; because i'm not sure I could do that.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Grace Ice and Water Shield. Other flexible membrane materials. The difference is that you have to cut, peel, and layer it wall properly. Not a big deal.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

I would use both, The grace as Atlantic states And the metal drip cap.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Either of those products will work just fine. 

I will say that Tyvek's flex wrap is uber-expensive, but is a spectacular product. If you're wrapping the house in Tyvek, the wrap's adhesive chemically bonds to the house wrap for a watertight seal.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

I can't find any other products besides the tyvek flex wrap in this town. 
Looks like i'm going to have to order online.
Have you ever seen/used tite seal ?


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

grace vycor and call your local lumber yard and see what they have instead of tyvek.


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

Oh when i had my house vinyl sided i went with green guard house wrap instead of tyvek.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

747 said:


> grace vycor and call your local lumber yard and see what they have instead of tyvek.


Thats the problem, the local yard doesn't have ANYTHING. :huh:

Went to the next town and 1 lumber yard had the tyvek flex wrap, which I absolutely am not paying that much for :laughing:.

Guess an adhesive membrane IS the way to go, so i'll look around and see what I can order online. :furious:


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## APfromNJ (Feb 1, 2016)

*Have you considered Typar Flex*

Typar Flex Flashing seems similar to FlexWrap, and is priced a little better (comparing pricing on Amazon.com). There is a video on youtube, try the link below and fast forward to about 4 minute 20 second mark.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

vycor is fine and compatible with tyvek. However, the grace flex wrap product is way easier to mold into a sill pan. Ron


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## Mingledtrash (Nov 27, 2015)

**** depot sells 9"x75' grace vycor plus for around 40$. for any order over 45$ they will ship to your home for free according to there website. 

we regularly use Xtra Flash its what most the local window companies send with there windows its pretty much the contractor version... I guess since i cant really find it online.
http://www.cvssonline.com/products/glazing-products/flashing/
XF9BC Butyl Base Flash 25M – CASE 
$91.80 XF9BS Butyl Base Flash 25M – SINGLE $36.64 






> In general, butyl flashings cost about twice as much as rubberized-asphalt products (see "Flexible Flashing Costs," below). However, DuPont's FlexWrap is significantly more expensive than other butyl flashings; it costs about six times the price of the average rubberized-asphalt product.


this was a very good read. 10/10 would recommend.
https://pro.homeadvisor.com/article.show.Flexible-Flashings.13630.html


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

there is Grace's product "vycor" which is arubber based polybutyl flashing membrane. also resisto, blueskin, .. do not use ice and water shield on a window or door, its asphalt based and can react with the vinyl in the window or door reducing the life span of the unit


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

woodworkbykirk said:


> there is Grace's product "vycor" which is arubber based polybutyl flashing membrane. also resisto, blueskin, .. do not use ice and water shield on a window or door, its asphalt based and can react with the vinyl in the window or door reducing the life span of the unit


Correct, as I stated above two posts prior. Ron


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

747 said:


> Oh when i had my house vinyl sided i went with green guard house wrap instead of tyvek.


Greenguard makes a flex equivalent too.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I'm sure resources have improved since 08- when this thread started.....


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

If youre doing the siding, esp vinyl siding, think about how you can put channels around the opening so that you are not draining into under the siding. I am beginning to really dislike the idea of j channels. Even the flashing under the windows that's supposed to overlap the course below works only if small amount of water gets in. 
The header channel must be fixed to the side channels with a rivet. The overlap tab must be water proofed so that water (gallons in a heavy rain) will drain to outside. Header channel must be installed with little bow so it drains, etc. 
If this is a diy, time being on your side, install the siding uber-correct and don't worry so much about the type of flashing. I distrusted flashing tape in general until recently. But acrylic adhesive tapes have a good history now. Eternabond tape is something I would use without hesitation. Cut the roll into 1" rolls and use it to bridge the cheap flashing (even tar paper) to the window frame, etc.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

TheEplumber said:


> I'm sure resources have improved since 08- when this thread started.....


Totally missed that. 

Why the 8 year old bump? :devil3:


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

AP from NJ bumped it....and my iPad said new post that I hadn't seen so I responded.....and off we went! Ron


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

carpdad said:


> If youre doing the siding, esp vinyl siding, think about how you can put channels around the opening so that you are not draining into under the siding. I am beginning to really dislike the idea of j channels. Even the flashing under the windows that's supposed to overlap the course below works only if small amount of water gets in.
> The header channel must be fixed to the side channels with a rivet. The overlap tab must be water proofed so that water (gallons in a heavy rain) will drain to outside. Header channel must be installed with little bow so it drains, etc.
> If this is a diy, time being on your side, install the siding uber-correct and don't worry so much about the type of flashing. I distrusted flashing tape in general until recently. But acrylic adhesive tapes have a good history now. Eternabond tape is something I would use without hesitation. Cut the roll into 1" rolls and use it to bridge the cheap flashing (even tar paper) to the window frame, etc.



with vinyl siding the house has to be water proof before the siding and trims even go on the wall. you cant water proof the place with the j channel or the siding alone. water will always find its way behind the siding. this means a combination of sealing the window or door with caulking and flashing tape. also metal cap flashings must be used at the top of the units in a manner that allows the water to run down the wall over top of the flashing and back out onto the face of the window or door. the biggest mistake i see production siding guys doing is caulking the seam between the top pc of j channel to the window or cap flashing, by doing this its closing off the exit point where the water runs out, almost always there are signs of water infiltration on the inside drywall and trim

also, one of the leading factors in window leaks with peel and stick flashings is do to it not being primed. if its not after roughly 2 years the flashing tape loses its bond to the unit and starts allowing water behind it. its the main reason that red tuck tape is no longer used to seal windows as it loses its tack much quicker


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