# Need a Flex extension?? for spray foam gun



## Chemist1961

I have had trouble accessing several tight areas along my 2x10 rim joist with my foam gun especially the last drafty joist area 13' long where the joist sits less than 2" off the basement wall parallel to the rim joist. This makes it nearly impossible to fill evenly or seal the draft
Either the can gets in the way or the gap is under 4" and I need either a flex tip or a flex hose that won't clog.
Any suggestions would be a huge help. I am ready to break out a bottle of rum in frustration


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## DangerMouse

I had the same problem in my attic. I attempted to use some surgical clear tubing attached to the end, but it didn't work at that length. (about 8')
However, perhaps a shorter piece may help do what YOU need done? Just be sure the ID is large enough to allow it to flow freely, I think the skinny IV stuff I tried was too thin.

DM


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## Ron6519

Why not install foam boards in that area?
It's hard to make suggestions without seeing the condition.
Ron


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## Chemist1961

*still ponderring*

Ron access through gap between front face of sill and bottom of first joist is approx 2"., so foam board has to go up and over above the top of about 3" of sill and then tuck back in that 4"cavity to abutt the rim joist. I can do this with multiple plies of foam board but I want to run a bead of foam at the rim joist and sill plate first and cannot get the gun's nozzle to reach. Really i need about a14-16" nozzle with flex tip or detachable extension. I will try to post a pic. Even hard to get there with the camera. My Rigid See Snake gets there fine.... lol


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## Thurman

I don't know about your gun, but I have had luck with Tygon tubing bought at either Lowe's or HD and used with the cans of foam. Granted they are a one-time thing and I cannot say they are "clog proof". Stopping for a few seconds will let the goop in the tube set up. I tape this tubing to a thin piece of trim or scrap wood to control the end.


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## Chemist1961

*possible fix*

Thanks ,Just back from HD and discovered standard 3/8 OD toilet fill lines may be the ticket. Flexible but straight 20"... now to the dungeon to test the theory


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## Ron6519

Chemist1961 said:


> Ron access through gap between front face of sill and bottom of first joist is approx 2"., so foam board has to go up and over above the top of about 3" of sill and then tuck back in that 4"cavity to abutt the rim joist. I can do this with multiple plies of foam board but I want to run a bead of foam at the rim joist and sill plate first and cannot get the gun's nozzle to reach. Really i need about a14-16" nozzle with flex tip or detachable extension. I will try to post a pic. Even hard to get there with the camera. My Rigid See Snake gets there fine.... lol


I've used clear plastic tubing, sort of an aquarium type clear tubing to extend the can foam "straw". Home Depot has various diameters.
Ron


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## T_J

*my extension costs less than $4*

I bought items below at Lowes to connect to a can of Great Stuff Gap & Crack filler; for an area I couldn't reach with the short straw deal. Oct 2012 prices.

5/16"OD X 3/16"ID VINYL tubing (0.20 per foot, bulk)
Apollo PEX Tubing 3/8" (5') $1.98

I cut PEX 3ft; cut vinyl about 3ft3in; cut the standard Great Stuff nozzle about 2.5"; ran vinyl thru PEX to have small diameter extension, to aid in seeing what I was doing in tight work space; pushed the vinyl tubing less than 1/2" onto shortened straw applicator. Worked Great, I didn't stop any though due to possibility of clogging, Don't cut the standard Great Stuff straw to short, need a little flex so it doesn't break due to stress (like my first attempt). I had maybe 1.5" of vinyl tube sticking out the end to aid in getting the sealant into cracks/voids. The 3' PEX is ready for reuse; discarded the used vinyl.


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## CZone

Great idea. I am going to try this tonight


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