# Starter Fertilizer for Sod



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Ask the people that are supplying the sod.


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

I've always used starter fertilizer when laying sod. I don't think the brand matters that much, and you're better off using a little less than you would with seed (IMO) but the real key is watering it lightly EVERY DAY for the first few weeks so that the roots take hold. I also made a habit of walking on it regularly in the begining, to make sure i got good contact with the soil underneath


----------



## CoachDave (Nov 25, 2010)

*Sod starter fertilizer*

Howdy Cprao,

When grading the soil for sod it's a good idea to make sure there is a slight grade away from the house for water to runoff. 

After you've laid the sod out you will want to water twice a day for about 10 days. 

You actually do not need starter fertilizer for newly planted sod. Starter fertilizer is for grass seed and is not essential.

I usually would wait at least 6 weeks to even think about fertilizer.

Coach Dave


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

CoachDave said:


> Howdy Cprao,
> 
> When grading the soil for sod it's a good idea to make sure there is a slight grade away from the house for water to runoff.
> 
> ...


Thank you very much for all your replies. 

I took a note of your points. I have one more question. I am planning to put sod this Saturday.. I was told staggerring technic will be used for laying down the sod. Can some one point me to any specific and detailed video on this technic.. I searched in youtube.. found many.. still did not answer my question.


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I think a balanced, timed release, fertilizer not a bad idea under new sod but you don't want something that will just leach away before the roots hit it.

I would roll sod in contact with the topsoil and then do everything I could not to walk on it for as long as you can resist. Footprints will just divot the spongy soil with whatever you weigh on the footprint. 

In summer, you want a rolling and watering team to start in the minute you get the sod laid. You do no want to wait all day to start watering. 

Staggering technique just means to offset the "joints" in the sod like in a brick pattern so you don't end up with square seams along large expanses.

Especially in summer, know your sod harvest date and make sure your supplier is standing behind it. If you are laying on the weekend and the sod was harvested yesterday and rolled you are in a race. Remember, you are dealing with a relatively fragile plant transplant product---two or three inches total of top growth and spongy sawed off roots. Be careful not to overwater or you will just rot the roots. But be mindful that establishing sod lawns can take much more water than seed ones. 

Water early enough in the day the sod is dry overnight so as to minimize attraction to insects and disease spores. Mow tall. Do ask the sod supplier when to start fertilizing and with what after the sod has established.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

sdsester said:


> I think a balanced, timed release, fertilizer not a bad idea under new sod but you don't want something that will just leach away before the roots hit it.
> 
> I would roll sod in contact with the topsoil and then do everything I could not to walk on it for as long as you can resist. Footprints will just divot the spongy soil with whatever you weigh on the footprint.
> 
> ...


Thank you !! Hopefully.. all goes good.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

cprao said:


> Thank you !! Hopefully.. all goes good.


Finally. I have laid down the sod on Saturday.. Currently following the water instructions provided by SOD company. 
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front%20Lawn%20-%20After%20sod%20-%2007-04-2011/P7030517.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030518.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030519.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030520.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030521.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030522.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030523.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7030524.jpg


Now the questions are:
1. How do I know the sod is growing well ?
2. How do I select a lawn mower ? This is 600 sq ft area and back yard will be having 1200 sq ft gass (yet to put down).. Considering 188 sq ft area. what kind of law mower I should be buying it. ? Any thoughts ?


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> Now the questions are:
> 1. How do I know the sod is growing well ?


If it's green, it's growing. if it starts to brown, don't panic, just stick to the watering schedule the sod company gave you



cprao said:


> 2. How do I select a lawn mower ? This is 600 sq ft area and back yard will be having 1200 sq ft gass (yet to put down).. Considering 188 sq ft area. what kind of law mower I should be buying it. ?


It depends on what you plan to do. Will you bag, mulch, or do both from time to time? Do you tend to take care of your stuff? No sense buying a good mower if your not the type of guy to winterize it at the end of the season. 

For a small yard like yours I would go cheap for now and upgrade in a year or two if you feel the need. you could get yourself a very inexpensive mower at any retail store, and if you just run it out of gas before you put it away for the winter, check the oil once a year, and sharpen or replace the blade every couple years you'll get many years of use out of it.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> If it's green, it's growing. if it starts to brown, don't panic, just stick to the watering schedule the sod company gave you
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I am sure this may be a basic question.. But what is bag or mulch ?
I would like to mow myself instead of hiring a guy.


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

Bagging is when you use the mower's bag to catch the clippings.
Mulching is when you let the clippings fall back on the lawn.

Most mowers on the market will allow you to to either ( and switch back and forth) but there are some mowers that are better at one than the other.

I usually cut my lawn at the highest setting. I bag the first cutting of the year as that's when i have the most weeds in my yard, then I mulch for the rest of the year. I never water my lawn, and barely even fertilize, and my lawn stays almost as green as my neighbors who use lawn services and sprinkler systems. I am a big believer in mulching


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> Bagging is when you use the mower's bag to catch the clippings.
> Mulching is when you let the clippings fall back on the lawn.
> 
> Most mowers on the market will allow you to to either ( and switch back and forth) but there are some mowers that are better at one than the other.
> ...


Ok. Basically you are using the clippings as a fertilizer by letting them fall back..

In my case what should be your advise.. when should I eve..
n think of mowing.. we laid down sod on last Saturday.


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> Ok. Basically you are using the clippings as a fertilizer by letting them fall back..
> .


Correct. If you mow when it's dry and use a decent mulching mower with a sharp blade you won't get clumping, and won't even see the clippings ( except on the driveway)



cprao said:


> when should I even think of mowing.. we laid down sod on last Saturday.


Don't mow it until it needs mowing. I'd wait a minimum of 2-3 weeks, then see how easy it is to pull up. If it seems like it's rooted then should be ok to mow. Plan to mow at a time when your lawn should be relatively dry. Mow it high, and cut it on a diagnal path. It sounds like you'll be using a new mower, but if not make sure the mower you are using has a sharp blade so you are cutting and not pulling/ripping. ( Even if you do buy a new mower you might want to get the blade sharpened before you use it )


----------



## CoachDave (Nov 25, 2010)

Howdy Cprao,
It's great your taking an interest in your lawn. You'll find once you've got a system down that it won't be too difficult or time consuming. Here are my guidelines for a healthy lawn.

Always use your own lawnmower so as not to introduce other problems to your lawn. When you stop mowing for winter there is a gas additive to stabilize the gas so it doesn't go bad.

Mulching is good and and should only be done twice a month to avoid "thatch" with is a layer of organic material that could thin out your lawn. Mulching also re-seeds.

Fertilizing is only good when a lawn is established. Over fertilizing will not give you good long term results.

Always water after you:fertilize, cut, and seed. The exception is after you've sprayed an insecticide or fungicide...this is so you don't dilute the active chemical.

Lastly, when watering, only about 30 minutes per week is advisable. This is because grass roots chase water. So twice a week at about 15 minutes or three times a week for 10 minutes.

I hope this helps you achieve the lawn you want. 

Here is a link of lawn ideas I did: http://community.homedepot.com/t5/v.../36/video-id/1mNWNiMjozGilXUNzdKDF7jFOD5ttGvA


Happy Gardening,

Coach Dave


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

CoachDave said:


> Mulching is good and and should only be done twice a month to avoid "thatch" with is a layer of organic material that could thin out your lawn. Mulching also re-seeds.


I think this is an old wives tale. I mulch everytime except for first cutting, haven't dethatched in over 5 years, I have no issues with thatch



CoachDave said:


> Lastly, when watering, only about 30 minutes per week is advisable. This is because grass roots chase water. So twice a week at about 15 minutes or three times a week for 10 minutes.


I disagree with the short interval/ often watering school of thought. You want your roots to run deep. if you only water for 10 minutes every other day, you teach the roots to stay shallow. Water only when you need it, and when you do give it a good deep soak.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> Plan to mow at a time when your lawn should be relatively dry. Mow it high, and cut it on a diagnal path. It sounds like you'll be using a new mower, but if not make sure the mower you are using has a sharp blade so you are cutting and not pulling/ripping. ( Even if you do buy a new mower you might want to get the blade sharpened before you use it )


Great Tips.

What do you mean diagnal path ? 
Yes. I will be buying a new lawn mower.. How do I sharpen the blades ? How do I know the blades are sharp enough to use them for mowing ? 

When you say cut high - means cut little ? 

What do you suggest on the first cut ? Mulching or bagging ?


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

CoachDave said:


> Howdy Cprao,
> It's great your taking an interest in your lawn. You'll find once you've got a system down that it won't be too difficult or time consuming. Here are my guidelines for a healthy lawn.
> 
> Always use your own lawnmower so as not to introduce other problems to your lawn. When you stop mowing for winter there is a gas additive to stabilize the gas so it doesn't go bad.
> ...


Per Sod company, water schedule is like this:

First week - 10 minutes - 3 times a day ( 7 am, 11 am and 2 PM)

2nd week - 10 minutes - 2 times a day ( 7 am and 2 PM)

3rd, 4th and 5th weeks - 15 minutes -one time a day - 6 am 

6th week onwards - every other day - 15 minutes at 6 AM.

Exception to the above schedule is - don't water during rainy days.

I am currently on the first week until this Saturday..


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> What do you mean diagnal path ?


I mean you laid your sod in a straight line from house to street, so when you mow start in one corner and go diagnally to the other and continue in the same fashion. Doing this will help limit the pull on the individual pieces of sod. Do this for the first couple cuts, but try to switch the corner you start in so you are cutting in a different direction each time. Once your sod really takes root you can mow straight across in both directions as well, but try not to mow in the same direction everytime. It's good for overall root health if you mix it up



cprao said:


> How do I sharpen the blades?


You can use a file, grinder, or have it done at a shop. If you do it yourself you can buy a little cone to check for balance



cprao said:


> How do I know the blades are sharp enough to use them for mowing ?


> As long as the blade isn't rounded over it will work ok.

Next time you are in a store that sells blades, run your finger across the edge of a new one. They are sharp, but not sharp enough that you'll get cut, kinda like the blade of a scissors. Personally I like to see my blade a little sharper as it makes for finer mulching. 



cprao said:


> When you say cut high - means cut little ?


Yes. Adjust the wheels to the highest setting. Toward the very end of the season I will start gradually cutting lower so it looks less shaggy over the winter, but all other times i cut at highest setting.



cprao said:


> What do you suggest on the first cut ? Mulching or bagging ?


For the new sod i would just mulch. I bag the first cut of the year as that's when the weeds seem to be most active, so i figure there is no sense just dropping all their seeds back on the lawn by mulching, but after that first cut i mulch for the remainder of season. You are dealing with a newly sodded lawn in the middle of summer, so weeds shouldn't really be an issue for you


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> Per Sod company, water schedule is like this:
> 
> First week - 10 minutes - 3 times a day ( 7 am, 11 am and 2 PM)
> 
> ...


I agree with their schedule until it gets to the 6th week _*onwards*_.
Since you are dealing with new sod, the roots are still very close to the surface. This means that it is pretty much pointless to do a deep soak. The roots are close to the surface, and the surface dries quicker, so you need to give it a sprinkle a few times a day for sure

I believe that if you follow this schedule *onwards* you will have a beuatiful green lawn, as long as you don't go on vacation, or get water restrictions imposed. If you give them more water less often, the roots will go deeper to get water in between and you'll end up with a healthier lawn that won't start turning brown the first time you forget to water it for a few days.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> If you give them more water less often, the roots will go deeper to get water in between and you'll end up with a healthier lawn that won't start turning brown the first time you forget to water it for a few days.


When you say more water less often means - watering only once a week for 30 minutes or so...?


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> When you say more water less often means - watering only once a week for 30 minutes or so...?


i mean water your lawn when it_ needs_ water, and when you do water, soak it good ( but do it early in day so the surface has a chance to dry)

Obviously, your new sod is a bit of an exception. You'll water it every day for the first month or so because it needs water to take root, and because the roots are still shallow, you don't need a deep soak. but at some point you'll want to cut back on the frequency and give it more water less often.

Someone else here said the "roots will chase water". This is true. So if you water every other day for 15 minutes, and you live in a warm to hot climate, how much of that water is going to get deep in the soil? Probably not very much. This practice encourages the roots to stay near the surface, which is not what you want. If you water once a week for an hour, the water will go deeper, and the roots will in turn have to go deeper to chase the water it needs. This will result in a healthier lawn that will not need to be watered at all except during long dry spells


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

cprao said:


> When you say more water less often means - watering only once a week for 30 minutes or so...?


In managing turf in Northern California, we sought to provide an inch per week of water with irrigation as a starting point and assuming we were not being rationed so you Southern California types could keep you swimming pools filled with our water! 

Obviously, some turf took less and some more watering time depending on outside temps, wind and so forth. Some budgets did not allow for this much irrigation. 

In general, even well amended soils remained very clay base and it served no purpose to water beyond a certain point because it just caused all the air space to swell shut. Not good for root penetration and growth. However the goal was always to water as infrequently and deeply as made sense to encourage deep root growth. 

You will have to feel this out as you go. Definitely water early in the day to minimize wind drift and evaporation. Keeping the turf grass dry overnight will discourage insects and fungus as well. Once you think you have a watering schedule nailed, check it by digging down with trowel and seeing what your turf layer and root growth into the soil under it looks like and how deep the wetness of the soil seems to go. In inexpensive soil core sample extractor will do and even better job.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

sdsester said:


> However the goal was always to water as infrequently and deeply as made sense to encourage deep root growth.
> 
> .


I got what do you meant by infrequent. But what do you mean by - Deeply ?

Means - more water ..


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> I got what do you meant by infrequent. But what do you mean by - Deeply ?
> 
> Means - more water ..


Yes. If you want water to go deep, you need to give it more ( ie: leave the water on longer) so it has the chance to go deeper into the soil

If you water for 1/2 hour, the water should have the chance to get deeper into soil than if you only water for 15 minutes


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> If you water for 1/2 hour, the water should have the chance to get deeper into soil than if you only water for 15 minutes


Unless, as mentioned, the soil is so clay it cannot take 1/2 hours worth but only 15 minutes at a time. It will just plug up with no air space for the roots if you over water and the roots will float on top of it or at whatever depth they are. 

Aerating each year will help the roots grow deeper. As they grow, you will be able to water less frequently and for longer periods.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> Yes. If you want water to go deep, you need to give it more ( ie: leave the water on longer) so it has the chance to go deeper into the soil
> 
> If you water for 1/2 hour, the water should have the chance to get deeper into soil than if you only water for 15 minutes


Ok. Got it.. what a education !! Thank you !!


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

sdsester said:


> Unless, as mentioned, the soil is so clay it cannot take 1/2 hours worth but only 15 minutes at a time. It will just plug up with no air space for the roots if you over water and the roots will float on top of it or at whatever depth they are.
> 
> Aerating each year will help the roots grow deeper. As they grow, you will be able to water less frequently and for longer periods.


I don't think what I have is clay soil.. 

how do I do aerating ?


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

cprao said:


> I don't think what I have is clay soil..
> 
> how do I do aerating ?


Sod is too young now but...

They sell aerators you can use manually or even hook to the hose. All golf courses used to require cleats for aerating close trimmed greens. 

You can rent drum or other power equivalents that do many square feet at a time. It's hardly worth it though. 

The fact of the matter is there are probably thousands if not millions of services in your area, listed in the phone book or online, that will come and do it for chimp change leaving tubes of soil that look like herds of deer left turds all over your lawn. Do check around with neighbors to see who they use. 

If you have the time and patience, rake the soil plugs up so you do not dull your mower blade and even rake in the equivalent mass of organic matter (like wood mulch). The process will leave cores in the turf through which water, fertilizer will seep down and and roots can all expand. The commercial companies will have machines with enough weight to go deepest. Do ask them about when to water last before they come.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi

Right now, your goal is to get that sod married to the prepared soil under it. Punching a hole thicker than the sod layer serves no purpose now until it has transplanted and rooted. You could, in fact, aerate and send water deeper than the young roots can reach right now.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

sdsester said:


> Sod is too young now but...
> 
> They sell aerators you can use manually or even hook to the hose. All golf courses used to require cleats for aerating close trimmed greens.
> 
> ...


Great Education on Aerators. I read couple of articles on internet and grasped the general idea about aerators.

My grass is going good.. However I do see in couple of paces mushrooms are coming up.. what would be the reason for it ? and what should I be doing it to take them off.

I will post the photos later.. can't do it now since it is dark outside.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

*Lawn Mower ?*

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-...1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1310441837&sr=1-1

*Black & Decker MM875 Lawn Hog 19-Inch 12 amp Electric Mulching Mower with Rear Bag*

*Is it a good one ?*

*Any suggestions?*



*Lawn mower for total 1500 Sq ft area of lawn. Both for mulching and bagging.*


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> My grass is going good.. However I do see in couple of paces mushrooms are coming up.. what would be the reason for it ? and what should I be doing it to take them off.


Mushrooms are very common in new sod, all the watering makes it easy for them to thrive. They won't do any harm and will probably disappear once your sod gets established and you cut back on the watering


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> *Black & Decker MM875 Lawn Hog 19-Inch 12 amp Electric Mulching Mower with Rear Bag*
> 
> *Is it a good one ?*


The reviews seem to indicate that it is!


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> Mushrooms are very common in new sod, all the watering makes it easy for them to thrive. They won't do any harm and will probably disappear once your sod gets established and you cut back on the watering


Great ! So i don't need to do anything ,, right ?


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> Great ! So i don't need to do anything ,, right ?


Nope, I'd just leave them alone. If they don't go away soon it might be an indication that you are overdoing the watering and not giving the lawn a chance to completely dry between waterings.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> Nope, I'd just leave them alone. If they don't go away soon it might be an indication that you are overdoing the watering and not giving the lawn a chance to completely dry between waterings.


Great !! This makese sense to me.
I have reduced water frequancy from 3 to 2 times a day now.

I will wait for one week for them to go.


----------



## CoachDave (Nov 25, 2010)

*Cprao lawn*

Howdy Cprao,
Have you posted any new photos of your lawn? The weather should be making your lawn so green the neighbors are wondering how you developed such a green thumb.

Happy Gardening,

Coach Dave


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

I did not post any new pics yet. I will post it tomorrow.. so far looks good.

Next thing is mowing and maintaing healthy lawn.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

cprao said:


> I did not post any new pics yet. I will post it tomorrow.. so far looks good.
> 
> Next thing is mowing and maintaing healthy lawn.


Here are the new pics. 

Comments ?

Currently looking for a lawn mower to maintain the lawn..
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7150546.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7150547.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7150548.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7150549.jpg


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

*Next Job - Privacy Trees*

This weekend, I am planning to plant these privacy trees.

They are - Eugenia Myrtifolia. They are all 15 gal pots. Plants to put them with 2.5 ft apart. I need them to grow atleat upto 10 ft. My back yard last stretch is 5 ft down from my house level. 

Unless it goes to 10 to 11 feet, it won't provide privacy to us since it is bordered with street road.. not very busy road.. but still little busy.

Any tips to plant and taking care of them ?

I am going to mix the soil with compost .. and also add some starter fertilizer.. 

I am not sure about my water schedule it.. please let me know your thoughts. 
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Privacy%20Trees-%2007-16-2011/P7150542.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Privacy Trees- 07-16-2011/P7150543.jpg
http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Privacy Trees- 07-16-2011/P7150544.jpg


----------



## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

cprao said:


> Here are the new pics.
> 
> Comments ?


Looking good fella! :thumbsup:


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Mr Chips said:


> Looking good fella! :thumbsup:


Thank You.. Any tips on planting trees ?


----------



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

cprao said:


> Thank You.. Any tips on planting trees ?


Dig the hole at least twice as wide and at least twice as deep. If container stock, slice or pry apart the root ball. If ball and burlap, do the same or plant it and then explode it with a water jet. 

I loved the Osmocote fertilizer and sticks for trees but it is expensive. Obviously, conifers should not get a lot of nitrogen. They have no leaves. They do not need leaf growth. Make them happy with more phosphorous and potassium. The NPK label on fertilizer is that string of number. Available nitrogen is first, Phosphorous second and Potassium last. Learn to use the ratio.

Fill the giant hole with nicely amended soil. Wrap young ground level trees trunks with something rabbits and other things will not chew on. 

Here is the thing that scares people but extra important planting trees this time of year? Prune away at least 1/3 of the top growth. Think about it. A transplanted tree should be putting energy toward rooting and not looking pretty up top if planted middle of the summer? Common sense. A newly planted and summer pruned tree this year will look much better than one not, next year.

And any time you plant a new tree? Prune immediately to get rid of all crossing branches, interior crotches, etc. now. They will just grow to haunt you and require a chain saw later. 

I grew up staking or otherwise supporting trees so they had a fighting chance against wind. In fact, in California you did not plant a tree without support either with stakes our guide wires and tree ties. Arborists here in the Midwest suggest a tree should make it on its own and lean a bit I guess. Horse puckey in my opinion.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

sdsester said:


> Dig the hole at least twice as wide and at least twice as deep. If container stock, slice or pry apart the root ball. If ball and burlap, do the same or plant it and then explode it with a water jet.
> 
> I loved the Osmocote fertilizer and sticks for trees but it is expensive. Obviously, conifers should not get a lot of nitrogen. They have no leaves. They do not need leaf growth. Make them happy with more phosphorous and potassium. The NPK label on fertilizer is that string of number. Available nitrogen is first, Phosphorous second and Potassium last. Learn to use the ratio.
> 
> ...


Thank you for all these tips. As you have mentioned, pruning 1/3 of the tree is really a difficult task to do. But I will do it.


----------



## cprao (Oct 26, 2009)

Here are the latest pics of grass..

It had its first cut on Thursday. I did not cut since I still have not bought the mower.. 

I do see couple of weeds in the grass and I pulled them out with hands along with roots ?

1) Do you advise me to add anything to arrest weeds ?

2) On the edges on one side, grass seems to be turing brown ? any comments ?

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7230555.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7230556.jpg

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7230557.jpg (Brown edges can be seen)

http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/vv352/Forex101/Front Lawn - After sod - 07-04-2011/P7230558.jpg


----------

