# Dealer and serpentine belt



## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

People,

Chevy dealers here say different thing about my serpentine belt. One says it needs to be changed at 40-50,000 miles. The other ( a few miles away) says no such thing- depends on "visual" inspection- no "mileage" specification. 

Which Chevy dealer is right? Who knows!!

My car is a chevy cobalt LT, with 48,000 miles on it. Belt "looks" good. Do I need to change it now? 

Thanks.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Your choice, any rubber product degrades over time.
That belt breaks and everything stops, try to restart and it will distory the engine.
Far cheaper to to just replace it.
It's a simple DIY replacement.
A 1/2" rachet and a socket is all you need.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Are we talking accessory belt for your AC, alt, etc....or the timing belt?

If acc belt....age and miles. If there are no cracks (or only minimal cracks) in the backside...keep driving it....unless you're going on a road trip. Those belts will give you 'some' notice they are failing.

Timing belt? Change at suggest interval. If you have an interference engine, it's not pretty when they go.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

its acc belt only. Car has timing chain. Im gonna change it. Funny how a dealer service rep doesnt even know.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

If you can see cracks in the ribbed side of belt, change it.:vs_cool:


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Also spin the pulleys to hear if bearings are bad. You can change just the bearings for 2 or 3 dollars instead of 40 to 50 dollars for a complete idler/tensioner pulley.:vs_cool:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

Last thing you want to do is change the belt with a spent idler or tensioner pulley.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I watched some guys at a campground doing something under the hood of a motor home for two days.
They must have made at least three trips to the auto parts store.
I walked over to see what they were trying to do, they where trying to change the serpentine belt using pry bars.
Right on the hood in front of there face was a diagram showing the layout of the belt and how to use a ratchet to move the idler to remove and install the belt.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

joecaption said:


> I watched some guys at a campground doing something under the hood of a motor home for two days.
> They must have made at least three trips to the auto parts store.
> I walked over to see what they were trying to do, they where trying to change the serpentine belt using pry bars.
> Right on the hood in front of there face was a diagram showing the layout of the belt and how to use a ratchet to move the idler to remove and install the belt.


Good thing there were no snakes in the camp ground..............:glasses:


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Gates has some good info on how a serpentine belt wears. 

http://www.gates.com/products/autom...ds/belt-wear-diagnosis/neoprene-vs-epdm-belts

Seems like GM's recommendation of 40-50k, would be about 5% wear and could effect performance. 

If it were mine, I'd just change it if severely cracked, glazed or noisy.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Brainbucket said:


> Also spin the pulleys to hear if bearings are bad. You can change just the bearings for 2 or 3 dollars instead of 40 to 50 dollars for a complete idler/tensioner pulley.:vs_cool:


Great replies, people. Tanks, But Brain, do you mean the pullys for the alternator, ac comp, and other stuff (power steering pump?)? Or JUST the tensioner pulley?

Reason Im changing it now even though belt still looks good is Im shipping the car to Cal, and dont want any trouble there at least for a few years. Nows my chance.......


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

He means the idler pulley and tensioner (it will usually come as an assembly with the pulley for the tensioner).

Idler Pulley










Tensioner


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Windows on Wash said:


> He means the idler pulley and tensioner (it will usually come as an assembly with the pulley for the tensioner).
> 
> Idler Pulley
> 
> ...


Good to know! Thanks!!


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

You can change the bearing out of the tensioner and idler pulleys. You can change the alt bearing but you gotta know what your doing to do that. A/C can be changed also but you need a clutch kit to do it correctly. Just spin them with your hand and listen for noise.:vs_cool:


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Brainbucket said:


> You can change the bearing out of the tensioner and idler pulleys. You can change the alt bearing but you gotta know what your doing to do that. A/C can be changed also but you need a clutch kit to do it correctly. Just spin them with your hand and listen for noise.:vs_cool:


Kind of like cutting rotors these days. 

Nobody really does it and even fewer folks do it correctly.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Good deal. I will spin the pulleys etc, but the ar really isnt that old. 7 yrs old with only 48,000 miles. Still good to check. I will report back, p[eople.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

Keep the old belt, and store it in the trunk somewhere. It may come in handy when you're stuck on the side of the road one day.


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## crash525 (Apr 3, 2013)

Change it if it is visually bad. Cracks, missing parts in the ribs, and rib depth should be checked when considering.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Just got my belt in the mailbox, from the mailman. Gonna install it maybe this wekend. Should be easy and fun.


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