# Repointing fieldstone foundation



## tkos115 (Aug 4, 2019)

I have started to repoint my field stone foundation. I'm using type N mortar mix for it. So far I have only done a small section since this seems to take me forever to do. In about an hour or so I probably only finished a 2ft by 2ft section. Is this something that normally takes this long to do? I did have to remove some of the old mortar that was crumbling and try to brush some dirt out too. 



Does this seem right to take this long? I don't expect to be as quick as a pro but it seems like it will take forever at this speed. Does anyone have an tips? Mostly what I've been doing is putting it in by hand and smoothing it out with a brush after. It seems that about 2/3 of my foundation could use new mortar as the old stuff is falling out.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Check with one of your local masonry supply stores & ask if they have a grout bag.
You can also find them in the ToolPro catalog page # 35.
Can also be found @ Kraft Tool page # 97 & 137
These will speed up the process.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Mike Haduck. Search for stone wall or stone foundation, specifically. Could get some pointers and a perspective. I'm not a mason, almost never work with masonary products, so I don't have his attitude about things he was doing in the video. Too cavalier for me.:smile: But note that he kind of taps at the deteriorated parts. He is careful not to undermine the block wall above the stones. As such, you may need to go slowly at least to begin and learn about your stone wall and the joints. 

How much are you removing? To what extent are you removing? Do you know what joints are serviceable and can be left alone, etc?


Your speed now could be actually help to you.


To speed up the work, as in video, you could use your hands or throw the mix at the joint. If your plan is to restore to pristine stone look, work will go slowly. Use brush to smooth and you can paint over it later. SDS hammer drill will accelerate removing old joint mix. Don't get too happy with it. Renting and doing a small area to learn, probably the first step.


Another is working conditions. Hot dusty bsmt doesn't help. If possible, window fans to use as exhaust. Boots for walking over the debris. Light duty gloves. Save some plastic shopping bags for removing the debris in small amounts.


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## stuart44 (Jun 29, 2016)

https://www.mikewye.co.uk/guidesheets/lime-pointing/
Here's another method to use.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

After working in the trades that do repairs on older type construction materials I WOULD NOT recommend the materials in the video by MIKE HADUCK be used or his procedure followed.
Reason for this statement.
He stated that a Lime based mortar existed in the Stone wall Portland Cement will cause failure over a short period of time when used over a Lime based mortar.
The Old School bonding agent that he used was a correct mix as per ASTM C926-06 as per para. 6.1.6 , but was applied incorrectly as per para. 3.2.9.4
His Portland Cement & Sand mix does not meet ASTM standards in C926-06 Table 3 ( parts by volume )
His second coat he stated would be applied after 1 day ASTM X1.4.2.2 " second coat shall be applied as soon as the first coat is sufficiently rigid"
He is using the wrong materials for a Stone foundation plus not following stands for the materials he is using.
The info provided by Stuart44 s by far a better repair material.
A repoint mortar should be no harder than around a 350 PSI & does not exceed around 750 PSI max after proper curing.
Do some research on repointing Stone Foundations that have a Lime based mortar.


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## stuart44 (Jun 29, 2016)

I'm doing a couple of repointing jobs at the moment, and one of them has some damp issues caused by defective guttering, but made worse by someone doing something similar in the damp areas.







In the first photo the gutter leaked badly down the wall in the corner, made worse by OPC pointing and masonry paint.







In the second one I've removed all the paint with a needle gun and raked out the joints. Behind the OPC joints the wall was really damp. Repointing the surface without filling the joints internally leaves pockets for water to sit.







In this one the wall has bellied out due to the OPC pointing holding in the moisture and also rotting the lintel.
NHL 3.5 lime mortar will be used in a similar way to the video, although I normally fill the bed joints with the pointing iron straight from the hawk, and hit the joints with the churn brush.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

tkos115 said:


> I have started to repoint my field stone foundation. I'm using type N mortar mix for it. So far I have only done a small section since this seems to take me forever to do. In about an hour or so I probably only finished a 2ft by 2ft section. Is this something that normally takes this long to do? I did have to remove some of the old mortar that was crumbling and try to brush some dirt out too.
> 
> 
> 
> Does this seem right to take this long? I don't expect to be as quick as a pro but it seems like it will take forever at this speed. Does anyone have an tips? Mostly what I've been doing is putting it in by hand and smoothing it out with a brush after. It seems that about 2/3 of my foundation could use new mortar as the old stuff is falling out.





I hope your not handling that mortar with bare hands, Clarence's grout bag is a much faster solution, but i've seen some still using a hawk, of course they know what they are doing so it still go's pretty fast.


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## tkos115 (Aug 4, 2019)

I am using gloves when using this mortar. That stuff can be nasty on skin. Someone I was talking to today said that I shouldn't be using a mix with portland cement as it wont allow moisture to breath through. They also said that type N mortar mix may be too hard for fieldstone. My foundation seems to be just granite type stones. It looks like it still has lime and sand in it but has anyone else had issues with this or know of a better mix with more lime or no portland cement? Would I be better off using a type O mortar if I can find it?


This is the mix I'm using:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/quikrete-6...Vg4zICh1c5wRFEAQYASABEgJ2V_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Yes you can get a Lime Based repair mortar.
Just a sample:
Lime Works
U.S. Heritage Group
Cathedral Stone
A.W. Cook (Masons Work)
Edison Coatings
You can make your own as per 
Also look at Preservation Briefs I think it is # 2 but you can also find a type "O" mortar mix in Brief # 22
The Preservation Institute & Historic Windsor, Inc.
Historic Scotland (www.historic-Scotland.gov.uk these people have some vert good advice for mortar mixes.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*we use these for mortar removal: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=223588231931+&_sacat=0 work GREAT ! ! !
i like cloth bags w/replaceable tips but they're so (&^#$^*( hard to find anymore,,, depending, we may use a hawk too*


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