# Finish off basement insulation/water damage



## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Where is the home located?

Poly vapor barriers are a thing of the past.

Google and search this site for basement insulation approaches. You will find what you need to know but the short answer is no to the poly and fiberglass and Yes to rigid and sealing.

Look into rigid foam, band joist sealing with either rigid foam or spray foam, and airtight drywall approach.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

If that was mine I'd consider getting rid of the fiberglass as suggested, but I'd also be treating that whole area with Bora Care.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/boracare-p-100.html

That mold can continue growing and will eat the Cellulose and glue holding the wood fibers together.
Can you post a picture outside in that area so we can get an idea on what your up against?
If that's not addressed the problems not going to go away by covering it up.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You may/not require poly on the frame walls, depends on *location* and *siding make-up*; foil-faced XPS in the rims. 

Gary


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## Tiny207 (Mar 12, 2011)

I live in Southern Maine.

I'll post a picture this weekend. I work the night shift and typically sleep while it's light out.

It's vinyl siding.


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## Tiny207 (Mar 12, 2011)

joecaption said:


> If that was mine I'd consider getting rid of the fiberglass as suggested, but I'd also be treating that whole area with Bora Care.
> http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/boracare-p-100.html


Do you know of any cheaper alternatives to the Bora Care? Not keen on the price for 6-8sq ft of surface i would be covering.

Would these work?
http://www.zepcommercial.com/product/Clear-Shell-Mold-and-Mildew-Inhibitor

http://www.concrobium.com/products/concrobium-mold-control/


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You are in Zone 6, Fig. 4A- vapor retarder paper (asphalt paper as you have) or smart vapor retarder; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0410-vapor-barriers-and-wall-design None on the concrete wall.

Gary


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## Trucon01 (Jan 10, 2012)

Windows on Wash said:


> Where is the home located?
> 
> Poly vapor barriers are a thing of the past.
> 
> ...


Here is a nice video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwn0Vjw_ji0


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Nice video! Thanks. Couple of points I noticed he didn't include; 

1. Less exposed concrete wall above-grade for drying= less thickness of rim foam board. 18" or so, no problems- the sun/wind can effectively dry it though I don't know the math.... and if there is a capillary break at sill/concrete wall= even less risk of rotting the sill plate/joists.

2. If you build an empty wall and room heat it you will still be losing heat (unless ext. insulation)- especially through the above-grade portions and to "frost line"; http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf Maybe I went for popcorn then...

3. Covered full-slab insulation but not perimeter (cheaper/code required) slab insulation (location of most slab heat loss) or importance of a thermal break at slab/wall/footing. 

4. He said a drainage mat with insulation makes no difference which side insulation is on. Say what....

Gary
PS. good presentation, we can all stop answering now....


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## Tiny207 (Mar 12, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Can you post a picture outside in that area so we can get an idea on what your up against? If that's not addressed the problems not going to go away by covering it up.


Here is a photo. Sorry for the wait. The water damage is under the deck where the vinyl siding begins.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Fix the door and ledger board flashing prior to fixing the insulation. 

Might be a spring time project before you can effectively remove that insulation without damaging it.


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