# Damaged fascia (Pics)



## timcsi (Jun 10, 2009)

hello, just moved into an old house. I'm not a handyman - just an average homeowner trying to learn how to fix my own house so please bear with me.

While cleaning the clutter I discovered that there is a separation between the gutter flashing and the gutter and I realized I can see inside the attic from outside ! The opening is about 2-3 ft long, an inch high. 

I climbed onto the attic and examined it further but I couldn't climb too far down the truss(is that what it's called ?) to the damaged spot because the clearance is too low for me. Is it called the "fascia board" that's rotted and some section of it is missing ? Please see the pics :

1089 : big opening from the outside
1093 : from the opening you can peek inside the attic
1094 : from the opening you can peek inside the attic
1098 : left side of opening
1103 : overview of the opening inside attic where I couldn't crawl in
1101 : zoom-in view inside attic of the opening

I'm very concerned this opening has been there since who knows when. Is this a problem with the damaged fascia board ? How do I fix it ? Do I uninstall the gutter and then remove the entire fascia board and replace it or I can cut out(with circular saw ?) the damaged section and just install another cut fascia in its place ? BTW the screws on the gutter, do I just unscrew it with a hex head socket ?

I tried searching on the forum and Google on how to replace fascia but I need more details for first-timers. Do you know of a site that shows how to repair it ?

Thanks.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

My main concern with something like that is insect & bees getting in
Where are you located - cold weather/humid area or ?

The gutter supports are big nails driven into the fascia
The drip flashing should also have additional flashing to direct the water into the gutter

One story house, 2 story - easy to access gutters?
If one story I'd take the gutters down & install new fascia board
Then install additional flashing to direct the water into the gutter

If you are there long enough to have the roof replaced have them put gutter apron (?) flashing/drip edge on. Roofers here can give you the exact name - I might be wrong

As a Temp fix duct tape works, but won't last a long time
Other option for now might to be possibly cut a small piece of scrap & put it up for now
Or - just some flashing


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## rizzo (Nov 9, 2007)

we suffered a similar situation due to lousy framing at original construction. During roof replacement we had a long piece of gutter apron custom press-braked that extended up the decking and was long enough to cover the opening - terminating in the gutter and secured along with the gutter to the rafter tails. If not performed during a re-roof I would recommend tearing off the starter row of shingles plus enough rows that the new gutter apron can be secured and 3' (or 6') of ice and water shield can be simultaneously installed.


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## timcsi (Jun 10, 2009)

hello, thanks for the tips. Am in MD, so far no sign of insect/wet damage in attic yet. Some more questions :

- the big "nail" that's holding the gutter up on the fascia board, how to losen it ? Is it a screw or is it a nail that I pry off with a pry bar ?

- is fascia board in sections that I can pry off just this damaged section or I must remove the entire length of the board (this side of the roof spans two rooms, about 30 ft !)

- the length of the gutter also spans two rooms so if I get up there with the ladder and unscrew the side where the damage is(at corner of house) how do I hold up the other side in order to remove the entire gutter ?


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## oldfrt (Oct 18, 2007)

Definately need to replace the facia.
Gutter spikes can be removed by either taking a pair of vise grips to the head and pull out while twisting back and forth.
If this doesn't work,we have used a flat bar set directly behind gutter at spike location,tap into nail pulling notch to get firm grip, set,and try and pry the spike out without doing damage to gutter.

Two ladders and two people easier for removal/replacement.Same for facia.

If working alone,tie off one end of gutter to top of ladder,have a second ladder for the removing the rest of the spikes,swing down,pivoting at tied end.


It may be difficult to cut facia in place for replacement,as cut should be beveled at meeting point and fall on rafter tail. 
If the ends of the rafters are damaged ,you may have to scab on new tail pieces.Trace the plumb cut onto a 2'-3' 2x material while holding it next to rafter to be repaired,cut and spike/screw alongside damaged rafter,being careful not to extend past plane of damaged rafter.

Prime and paint new facia before installing.Fasten with galvanized #8-10 nails.

Try and set the gutter spikes in a different location when refastening so they don't pull loose.Either higher or lower than original at rafter points,taking into consideration the pitch to downspout.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The carpenter that cut the level (seat) cut on that rafter was not paying attention at the time. It is not as deep as the other common rafters next to it. Hence that hip rafter (jack) is sitting higher off the top plates than the other. As you can see the ply sheathing (roof deck) rises at that rafter in the last picture. The gutter needs to be pulled loose and swung up out of the way at that end only, or completely removed. Cut the ceiling joist nails to the rafter and the rafter/wall plate nails, but not the ceiling joist/wall plate nails. Level cut that rafter's seat cut deeper to lower it equal to the others nearby, re-nail it. The fascia board should be replaced for a 4' section (minimum), enough to span more than one rafter bay (for strength). A butt-joint will work fine, if on rafter tails as the soffit is closed and it will only show at the fascia bottom thickness. Prime all 4 edges against water before installing. Check your existing drip edge flashing, making sure it extends over gutter or add flat flashing under it as mentioned. Install gutter, with downspout terminating 6' from house on ground. 
Be safe, G


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## oldfrt (Oct 18, 2007)

GBR in WA said:


> The carpenter that cut the level (seat) cut on that rafter was not paying attention at the time. It is not as deep as the other common rafters next to it. Hence that hip rafter (jack) is sitting higher off the top plates than the other. As you can see the ply sheathing (roof deck) rises at that rafter in the last picture.
> 
> Good catch GBR,
> It actually looks like the last two rafters are high.I'd take a look down the side to the right of that hip also to see if it has the same problem.
> ...


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## timcsi (Jun 10, 2009)

More questions :
- after I take out the big gutter spike/nail, is it best to buy new gutter hanging brackets to put the gutter back ? I mean this hanger :
http://www.rd.com/advice-and-know-h...-how-to-install-gutters/article117453-11.html

- in order to losen the gutter on one side of the house I need to detach it from the outside corner but they joined together by rivets - how do I remove the rivets ? I mean this outside corner :
http://www.rd.com/advice-and-know-h...f-how-to-install-gutters/article117453-2.html

- what's the best way for one person to remove the long old fascia board ?

- do I get new normal lumber from HD for the new fascia board ? I heard pressure-treated will shrink over time so is it better to get non-treated ?

- the old fascia board was not painted. Everywhere I look they say I should prime and paint it. Is that just getting a paint+primer mix and paint it any color(e.g. white) ?

Actually it's an illusion from the photo. The rafters look high because the rotted/broken fascia board is slanting down on both sides.


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