# Large gap between door frame and jamb



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Got a picture.
Why not just add some 2 X4's to make the rough opening smaller?


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

I would have to remove the door and jamb to be able to get 2x4s in there. Before I go down that road I want to be sure its needed (sure could use a structural engineering degree right now  )


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

I would have to remove the door and jamb to be able to get 2x4s in there. Before I go down that road I want to be sure its needed (sure could use a structural engineering degree right now  )


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

I would have to remove the door and jamb to be able to get 2x4s in there. Before I go down that road I want to be sure its needed (sure could use a structural engineering degree right now  )


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

I would have to remove the door and jamb to be able to get 2x4s in there. Before I go down that road I want to be sure its needed (sure could use a structural engineering degree right now  )


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## DannyT (Mar 23, 2011)

but you have the casing off already. if you want to fix it right then take the jamb out and add the 2/4's then you can install the door correctly. if it was an opening before then therre should be no structural issues. if you want the door hung properly then add the 2/4's.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

You already have done the hard part, why not fix it right?


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

Want a quick fix?
I may get beat up here for suggesting a hack.
If the door works fine as is, and opens ...closes ... the only problem is you know it does not have 4" screws in the hinges to hold it proper. Which you could add.
And myself, would just take a sawzall and cut the nails out of the jamb and fur it out as suggested. Re hang the door.

You could get a $4 can of great stuff foam insulation and fill the gaps on sides and top.
Will glue that frame so tight, you could slam the door all you want and jambs will not move. Is it a hack? Sure it is... does it work? yup.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

The first thing that I would do is see whether the header is resting on a stud on either side of the opening, or not. If not, then it's pretty much a no brainer; pull the door out, install the jack studs, and reinstall the door. If the header is already supported, it's your choice.


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## pro handyman (Dec 18, 2012)

If I'm reading this right your having some flex with door and above floor door? That would tell me there isn't a proper header there and it all needs to be redone.


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

Great stuff foam was my first impulse, then I thought to come get opinions first!

The header is supported by jack studs. It's the first thing I checked...


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

pro handyman said:


> If I'm reading this right your having some flex with door and above floor door? That would tell me there isn't a proper header there and it all needs to be redone.


I cant quite figure it out. There is a crease in the drywall above the door running out from the door corner up and to the side. But now with the casing removed I can see the header is supported with jack studs. Additionally the door is plumb in the jamb and level. I'm guessing the opening had problems prior to the door being installed.


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

It really does depend on your skills and tool you have.
It is easy for me to sit here and say I would pull the frame and re-install it correctly.
And is still the best advice.
But if you do not have a sawzall, air compressor, finish guns, etc ...
Maybe it would only open a can of worms. Maybe the door works fine as is and just concerned about the drywall cracking?

A professional drywaller will bridge the door frame with drywall and will prevent cracks from the edge of the door frame going up the side of the header. Will be no drywall seam in that area.

Your issue really sounds like a poor drywall job then a bad door .. or both 
Would be better to make a post in drywall then carpentry for the cracking and proper ways to fix it.


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## pro handyman (Dec 18, 2012)

fstr said:


> I cant quite figure it out. There is a crease in the drywall above the door running out from the door corner up and to the side. But now with the casing removed I can see the header is supported with jack studs. Additionally the door is plumb in the jamb and level. I'm guessing the opening had problems prior to the door being installed.


sounds to me like there isn't a proper header there. What I would do is remove drywall above door frame and see what the header is on a second story the headers need to be at least 2x10's with half inch plywood sandwiched in the middle.


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

pro handyman said:


> sounds to me like there isn't a proper header there. What I would do is remove drywall above door frame and see what the header is on a second story the headers need to be at least 2x10's with half inch plywood sandwiched in the middle.


I checked and you are right - there is only a 2x4 header


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

funfool said:


> It really does depend on your skills and tool you have.
> It is easy for me to sit here and say I would pull the frame and re-install it correctly.
> And is still the best advice.
> But if you do not have a sawzall, air compressor, finish guns, etc ...
> ...


Skills and tools is not my issue, time on the otherhand is not my friend. Every single project I have undertaken in this house has opened a new can of worms that needs solving.
Good point about the drywall seam - I forgot about that. I did check last night and there are no seams around the door frame header area (sides and top). The problem is with the frame, not drywall.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Doesn't sound to me like the wall was load bearing.

Any pictures?


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

This is the only wall across the width of the house (28ft) at one end of the house. 
First 3 photos shows the gap and the fourth the drywall on the opposite side.

It is not clear from the 1st photo but the gap is not even around the jamb. At the bottom right the gap is minor.
The second photo shows the top left corner and the crack in the drywall. I spackled over it. The crack that is still visible is where it was behind the casing before I removed it.
Third photo shows the way they nailed it up. Also clear here is that the opening was finished (drywalled), so the door was a later addition. The wood in the back of the gap is the casing on the opposite wall


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## fstr (Dec 29, 2011)

Quick floor plan to show the location of the wall and door. Joists run like the lines on the page


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## rualesbuilding (Dec 15, 2012)

fstr said:


> I am re-doing the master bedroom (molding and paint) and I removed the casings around a door leading from the MB to a kind-of sitting room off the MB. It seems previously it was just a finished opening between the rooms and a door was later installed in the opening.
> Problem is, the gap between the opening and the jamb is rather large: ~2" on the hinge side and ~1.5" on the other side. And about 2" above.
> Keep in mind the old opening also had 1/2" drywall. That makes up to 2.5" between the studs and the jamb!
> The person that installed the door used 3 small wood blocks on the 2"-gap side as nailers. But the blocks are nailed to the frame and are not wide enough and the jamb does not touch the blocks.
> ...


*Remove Large gap between door frame and jamb* 

1. Fix massive gaps by adding a wood filler section on the sting of the door. shut the door and live the gap between the door and therefore the upright. A 1/16-inch gap is usually needed to permit the door to swing freely. confirm however massive the gap is, then cypher 1/16 in.. this is often the space by that you may got to extend the sting of the door.

2. take away the door from the gap. Use a hammer and pierce to get rid of the hinge pins, then carry the door out of the frame. Set it on a combine of sawhorses as you're employed.

3. Cut the sting of the door (the opposite of the hinge edge with a sawing machine to show contemporary wood. Set your move 1/8 in.. The contemporary wood are easier to bind to the new filler edge.

4. Apply wood glue to the sting of the filler piece and stick it to the sting of the door. Clamp the 2 items along, then drill 2 long decking nails into the sting of the door to hitch the sections along.

5. enable the glue to dry nightlong, then sand the joints wherever the filler meets the door. Clean away sanding mud and repaint the door to revive its look. Rehang the door by sound the hinge pins into place.

I hope I have been helpful.:yes:


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## Duckweather (Mar 26, 2012)

You do have one other possibility for such cracks, settling of the floor underneath due to lack of support / deflection of the joists. If the section of the floor is sagged, check with a straight edge or chalk line, it can cause diagonal cracks starting in the corner of any opening. This problem may transfer to the floor above since you have the weight of another floor. Even a non bearing wall will eventually have weight on it, (the live load of furniture etc.), and if one sags the one above can. Check below first floor for undersized joists, support columns with to great a distance between. Most houses 30 years old would not pass some of todays codes.


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

What is so hard about taking a door and jamb out, and adding a couple of trimmers? Like the other guy said, cut off the Finish nails with a hacksaw blade in a sawsall, pull out the jamb and door, install a seriously plumb trimmer on the hinge side, and rehang the door. Doesn't take an engineer to hang a door. 

Like the others, I assume proper header.


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