# Newly Installed Roof Drip Edge question w/pics



## Ron Smith Const (Jun 5, 2010)

I would not be happy.Which i'm sure your not.The drip edge appears to be hanging to far out,wrinkled and looks like it isn't fastened correctly.He also didnt pop lines for the shingles.Looks like his coarses ran high then he tried to drop them.I also see where he dabbed tar to possible hold the first coarse to the drip edge.Very shoddy workmanship.Its possible that it can leak in a driving ran with winds blowing in that direction.Not to mention the wind could blow the areas up.I never run my first coarse of shingles flush with the drip.I always leave a 1/2 inch overhang.It is fixable,and diffently needs attention.


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

Looks like they must have left the chalk line at home that day. 

From what I understand, FL code requires the shingles to be flush with the drip edge. In Fl, I would install the shingles flush. In the other 49 states and Canada, I'd overhang them a minimum of 1/2". 

I'd call for a mulligan on that section of roof and any others that look like that.


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks for the help so far.

They are coming sometime this week to look at it. What should I be expecting to be done as a permanat fix. Do they need to replace the ice shield or just black jack the old holes and fix a few shingles or the whole botton section? What do you all think is the best fix or any other ideas?


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## seeyou (Dec 12, 2008)

searayrunner said:


> Thanks for the help so far.
> 
> They are coming sometime this week to look at it. What should I be expecting to be done as a permanat fix. Do they need to replace the ice shield or just black jack the old holes and fix a few shingles or the whole botton section? What do you all think is the best fix or any other ideas?


They started off wrong. I'd insist they tear it off and do it all over again. If my guys had produced that roof, that's what they'd be doing if they wanted to get paid.


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## Ron Smith Const (Jun 5, 2010)

I would have to say do it again aswell.The shingles cant be dropped to fill in the bottom.If that was done the shingles above would run higher then the nail lines of the next coarse.I disapprove of taring a brand new roof.You paid to have it done right the first time.So the contractor should honor that.


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

When you say "do it again" do you mean the whole side of the house and ridge cap?


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## Ron Smith Const (Jun 5, 2010)

searayrunner said:


> When you say "do it again" do you mean the whole side of the house and ridge cap?


 
Exactly.The extra time and money to repair it is worth my reputation.Not to mention the fact it should have been do right the first time.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

Did a handyman/GC install this, or a roofing contractor?


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Actually it was the largest roofing contractor in my local area. I am really starting to get angry about the whole deal.


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

searayrunner said:


> Actually it was the largest roofing contractor in my local area. I am really starting to get angry about the whole deal.


Where do you live?

I guess a lot of contractors assume home owners never go up and check.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’m surprised none of the roofing pro’s here have clicked in yet.

Sloppy Job? Yes.

Worth tearing the roof off? No.

Worth tearing off if you are looking out of your second story window or deck and you can’t stand the sight of crooked lines? You might have something there.

Can it be fixed without the entire roof being tore off and still have a roof that doesn’t leak? Absolutely.

Most importantly, and the lesson to be learned here is if you hire the “largest roofing contractor in my local area” the owner/founder/pro roofer is the furthest eyes from the job.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

First off this is a bad display off workmanship the problem is not the drip edge is to far out it is that the shingles are too high above the drip edge.Was this a complete tear off? It looks to me like the drip edge was reused.If that roof is 1-2 weeks old it is impossible for that drip edge to show that much dirt unless you live on a dirt road.It is also obvious that no lines were used on the gutterline.Those shingles have a 5-5/8" exposure.,exposure meaning how much of the shingle is made to be exposed to the elements.Throughout this thread Florida was mentioned is this where you live? I was referred to Florida by one of our Missouri customers to roof several of they're families homes so I am no way affiliated with stormchasres.,Our roofs were inspected up to 3 times.If your in florida then this roof is definately a code violation according to the revised edition of the Florida building code.In Florida the drip edge has to be lapped 4" and the starter course should be lapped 7" and then the starter has to maintain a 6" offset.Then the starter has to be "bulled"(sealed) to the drip edge followed by the lap as well.With these obvious workmanship infractions one would have to wonder waht the nail patterns look like?In
Florida from Orlando north the requirments for fasteners is 5 nails with 4 out 5 nails within the nail strip.Orlando south the fastener requirements are 7 nails with 6 out of 7 nails within the nail strip.Regardless where you live no shingle manufacture on the planet will honor any material warranty if improper fastening is used.You could have total roof failure and if the workmanship is not to specification then it falls under a mechanical failure which means improper application.And if they reused the drip edge then you might wonder what else was reused?(Pipe flashings,vents,step flashing,ridge vents?)Actually I have a hard time detrmining if any starters were used.I would call your local building department to obtain a roof inspection.,it might cost you but how much would it cost later down the road.Have the inspector check nail patterns,flashing,valleys,vents etc.I would also look over your contract and start from the beginning and evaluate whether or not everything that you signed to have performed was in fact performed.What you have to do is obtain as much evidence of incompetence as you can to warrant a complete tear-off.The only way of fixing this proplem without a tear off is to pull the entire first course replace the drip edge and add a short course.,basically doubling up the first course to make up for the under course.It will look hideous because your 30yrs are thick and it will look bulky.,I would try to find as many imperfections as possible.,and I am not a double crossing contractor I am just sick of these wannabe contractors performing substandard workmanship practice.And with drip edge you are able to have 1" in the gutters and 1" on the rakes.,however I prefer about 1/4" past the drip edge because I feel it gives a cleaner look and the drip edge prevents the shingles from rolling into the gutters.Any more than 1/4" past the drip edge is pointless unless you have no gutters or have a problem with ice daming.Hope this helps..,,,Good luck


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

RoofMaster gave you a very valid opinion. 

My main concern is about the possible omission of the Starter Strip Shingles since I could not tell for sure that they were installed also.

Will the roof leak because of that? Probably not, or at least not to invade the interior of the home, but unless they want to go to major expense to satisfy what should have started off correctly, they may offer to install 2 short courses in lieu of the one bottom course and that is a decision that you would have to accept or decline. It would be functional, but not aesthetically pleasing if this spot is in an obviously visible site line.

Most contractors, especially many of the the larger ones, use subcontractors that they farm out there work to, so I would see who did the job for them and put a gentle squeeze, but being reasonable at the same time to get the satisfaction that you desire.

Ed


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## Slyfox (Jun 13, 2008)

Even the biggest and the best are human, their installers screwed up.
'crew of employees or a sub crew is neither here nor there'
I can think of a half dozen reasons why something like this issue could occur, none of them are acceptable, but not all of them are neglect,
some times it's a simple matter of lack of experience.

The biggest contractor in your area will honor their workmanship commitment and do what's needed to correct the situation.

Do they need to completely re-do that section of roof, probably not. Inspect it first, than decide.
Do they need to inspect the entire section as well as the rest of the entire roof on your home, yes.

Once they have completed/corrected the issue and inspected the entire roof, have them put their findings & work performed in writing and make sure they note their additional work is guaranteed.

If they try and get out of fixing the issue/s, than get angry.

You already have before pictures, get during "if possible" and after.


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Thanks for all the responses so far. Without incriminating anyone I am in the Midwest. Yes they did use a starter and they did reuse the drip edge. This is the view from our deck. I have actually roofed and/or helped do a dozen or so homes over the last many years so when I saw that the shingle’s were not overhung on the drip edge I was concerned. Not that this makes me qualified by any means but far from that. I wanted to do it myself but with two small children and everything being so busy I decided to hire it done. Plus doing some of these side jobs has shown me how corners are sometimes cut not on purposes but just because the installer (friends/myself) didn’t have the knowledge/experience. So I figured hire it done and have a flawless roof. 

This area that I have pictured is also where the largest part of our higher roof drains onto and then into the gutters. So in the winter its normally going to have some ice buildup. I am concerned as to why the Ice shield is not staying down I thought for sure it would stick. The rep did say it could take up to 6 months for the shingles to lay down that seems a little extreme to me. Even when they do lay down they are going to be ½” short of the drip edge’s edge.

Thanks!


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Still have yet to have anyone show up. They did call last night to say they would fix things but wont say what the plan is or timeframe. I am sure they are busy but at the sametime I want to get this settled.


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## Ed the Roofer (Jan 27, 2007)

Be patient, but insist on getting a firm date at least for the appointment to be presented with a written and agreed specification for repair, upon which, both parties would agree in writing as to the method of resolving the problem to your satisfaction.

Ed


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## handy man88 (Jan 23, 2007)

searayrunner said:


> Still have yet to have anyone show up. They did call last night to say they would fix things but wont say what the plan is or timeframe. I am sure they are busy but at the sametime I want to get this settled.


One scary thing about some contractors is after you pay, they won't honor warranties or even return phone calls. I hope things work out for you.


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Luckily i still have cash in hand!

They called last night and the plan is to take up the bottom two rows of shingels, replace the drip edge and then lift ice shireld and replace/install with a twelve inch strip. How does this fix sound? My only convern is the ice shield and how that will play out.


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

I would push for one of their other supposed "crews". Good luck with it and I hope they fix it for you.

Usually, the bigger the company, the less likely you will get qualified people on the job.

Maybe they were just fresh across the border and just learning yet......


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## MJW (Feb 7, 2006)

searayrunner said:


> Luckily i still have cash in hand!
> 
> They called last night and the plan is to take up the bottom two rows of shingels, replace the drip edge and then lift ice shireld and replace/install with a twelve inch strip. How does this fix sound? My only convern is the ice shield and how that will play out.


Ask what their warranty will be. Get it in writing from the business owner, not a sub crew. 
Makes you wonder what else there is, that isn't easily seen.


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

Let us know how it turns out.


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Well they came out today and replaced the drip edge, took off the first two rows and put down a full shingle as a starter. Not sure why they didnt just cut it...any problems with this method? The sub admitted the starter roll they use is junk but is told to use it. 

They also installed a really sticky tar strip roughly 12 inches wide to cover the cut area of the ice shield/new drip edge and the first row of nail holes from the initial install. Tar strip is flush with the drip edge and goes 12 inches up from there. They didnt replace the ice shield so the second row of prior shingle nail holes are still there but they are about 15 inches from the drip edge as well as the first row but this row is covered with the tacky tar strip. The sub said the nail holes will be fine but I cant see why we went with two rows of ice shield if at 15 inches it would be fine to have nail holes in the ice shield. 

I am just ready to give up. Do you all think the ice shield will leak?


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## drtbk4ever (Dec 29, 2008)

I am no expert, but I would say you will be fine with that.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

Replacing the drip edge is a step in the right direction.,Did they replace the drip edge on the entire roof?(assuming it was part of the contract).
To be able to have proper access to the drip edge.,the use of a full shingle instead of a roll starter or 3-tab I believe is a preference.I personally use either one.(roll/3-tab) The reason I don't use a arch shingle is turned upside down the exposure area of the shingle followed by a first course shingle will create a bulky look along the gutterline.The steeper the roof the more noticable it is.Provided the ice/water is installed correctly(plastic film removed during install)The warmer it gets into the season the ice/water will heat and the holes will disapear and all nails in the area of the ice/water was used will seal around the nail head.So no you shouldn't have any problems with the materials,And as far as the sub telling you the material is junk but was told to use it by his company,he would come close to being terminated by me because a (good) sub wouldn't slander/bad mouth his employer.,it says something about his integrity and loyalty not taking responsibility for his actions.The company he worked for was good 
enough to provide him with work and that is how they are repaid.I apologize for giving bad advice toward the roofing company that more than likely provides quality work and giving you ammo so to speak to help the company eat your roof.(complete reroof)The sub let you down not the company. What a coward blaming his company for trusting him to do his job.


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Roofmaster417,

Do you think the holes that dont have nails in them will reseal. This would be great.

Yes they are going to replace all the drip edge on the house and garage. Rain came today as they where working so they have to come back again. I looked over my contract and it states all drip edge would be replaced if needed at the agreed to fee. If they would of just done it the first time none of this would be happening. I kick myself for not speaking up but 9 guys going to town on your roof was kind of chaotic and I missed it.

True about the sub the company people have been ok but not one of them has come to look at the problem. The sub was actually not suppose to come today it was suppose to be company guy. 

They also broke a few shingles working on stuff and need to come bach and fix those also.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

Yes the holes will seal up.,as long as it is within the ice/water they will as the season progresses.I understand your concern though,even if no ice/water was used just felt the holes in the felt will not seal themselves and everyday roof repairs are performed when only single shingles and tabs are replaced,with small repairs like that felt is not replaced and as long as proper nail patterns are used it won't leak,.now I am not saying that repairs don't require felt replacement,it has to be a large enough area to warrant the replacement of the felt.And during repairs you will often crack/break shingles but that would be on a much older roof.,are you sure they are broke and not ripped?That happens (ripping) during the sealing process its difficult to seperate them depending on Humidity,how much direct sunlight,lack of ventilation and most important how early you get to the jobsite before exposure to direct sunlight.Depending on your summer and winter temperatures,in the summer repairs are easy early morning and in the winter to prevent breaking shingles its easier late morning when the sun has warmed the roof up little.And as far as the company,if you live in a storm area maybe they are just swamped,did they make the oppointment?and did they call you to say they couldn't make it?If so then at least they were courteous,if not they should have.Also,the shingles that were broke/damaged did they take precautionary measures to guarantee that you will stay dry ?


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## searayrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

There are a good number of holes since they 6 nailed all shingles the first time. I am more concerened with leaks this winter from a ice dam.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

searayrunner said:


> There are a good number of holes since they 6 nailed all shingles the first time. I am more concerened with leaks this winter from a ice dam.


I would feel comfortable telling you that by winter the nail holes will be gone in the ice/water.:thumbup:


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## Alto (Jun 17, 2010)

is 1 inch too much for the overhang?


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