# cement slab grade fix?



## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

Hello everyone, I just bought my first house this month and I have a question about my back cement slab patio. There was a garage built onto the house about 10 years ago and when they poored the cement slab for it they also extended about 10 feet past the back of the garage as a patio. Now here is my problem they didn't put a grade onto the slab so when it rains water collects and has rotted out the back bottom plate of the garage. What would be the best way to fix this problem? Could I add my own grade by adding more concrete to the patio? Iam stumped.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Going to have to post a picture, you can see it we can not.
Look around at some of the older post, there's hundreds of this on this and other DIY sites with the same problum.
There is no way to regrade it, thin concrete will just crack, and old does not like to stick to new.


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## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

I will post a picture as soon as I can, I could be wrong but it would prob be best just to take it up and just do it properly from scratch instead of trying to fix over somethibg that is broken.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Siding, sheathing, bottom plates should never be any closer then 6" from grade.

Paitio, decks, stoops should never be any closer then 4" of any door opening unless there covered.


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## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

I just came up with an idea and was wondering if it would work. If I remove 2 feet of the slab from the back of the garage so that the garage and cement patio are seperated. Also replace the bottom plate of the garage with presser treated lumber. Is there any sort of flashing I could put along the bottom plate to help keep it water proof?


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

Well, unless the rest of the patio is graded properly, what you'll end up with is a puddle right next to your garage, which wouldn't be good either. You could excavate that two feet and add a drain channel with new concrete, which would divert water away from the building. Might be worth a shot.


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## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

I think I am going to wait till the spring and completely remove the slab. And poor a new one two feet away from the garage with a proper grade. That way it is done right


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## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

You can have it right next to the garage as long as its graded properly. If that's what you want, of course.


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## TRUEPRO (Apr 10, 2012)

LISTEN CLOSE TO WHAT IM ABOUT TO TELL YOU>>>>

What you want to do is this: 


buy enough deck drain to run the entire span of the patio. 

saw cut your slot in the concrete for the drain as close to the wall as you can

use rubber flashing and flash from the wall down into the slot

use adhesive for the flashing where in contacts any concrete

install deck drain

problem solved, it will look good and divert the destructive water

GL


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## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

That sounds exactly what I need thank you very much


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

and cut out the bottom 6" or more of the garage. and use cement blocks to get the wood structure above grade.


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## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

I know this thread is old I kind of forgot about it and noticed in my garage today from it raining all day that the floor is wet and remembered this thread. Fix'n it how exactly would I fasten the bottom wall plate to the cinder block?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Block void get filled with concrete with a foundation bolt in it. No idea what your lay out is so it's hard to tell you where to place the bolts.


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## handyman_squire (Aug 5, 2012)

That sounds easy enough. One more question how do I secure the cinder block to the cement slab? With the same morter I would put between the blocks?


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i would drill holes in the slab and epoxy long bolts in. then cement the blocks on those. then bolt the bottom plate to them.

sounds easy, doesn't it :whistling2:


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