# Basement Wall Mortar



## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

The first pic shows areas where I have removed the entire top layers of mortar. It appears there were 2 layers of mortar. You can see areas, where there is still a layer I did not remove. Thses are areas where there was no moisture. The second shows a closer view of the type of foundation.


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## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

That is poured concrete, circa 1930s. Just use regular premixed mortar to plaster it, then buy a product like Thoroseal and coat over it and you will be good.


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

Thanks Tscarborough. However, I was actually told by waterproofing company guys to not use a sealant because if there is some moisture seeping through, its best to let it breathe through the concrete than attempting to seal it out as this just means it stays in your foundation longer leading to faster deterioration.


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## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

That is very true. I thought you were trying to seal it though. In that case, do not apply the thoroseal, just the mortar mix.


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

I have decided against QUIKWALL although it would have been the perfect application, but it has waterproof properties. I have purchased a Mason Mix Type S mortar seeing as the foundation is older, and will post pics when I am done.


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

Anyone have any tips/ideas in helping the mortar stick to the vertical wall? 
Wow, this stuff just want to slough off. Maybe I will have to go with the QUIKWALL surface bonding cement at this rate? 

I did a small section of the wall with the type S mortar and now that it has started to cure, I tapped on it and I have sections where I can hear due to the hollow sound, that it has not adhered completely to the wall. 

Being a novice at this, is probably why, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks


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## sevver (Apr 28, 2008)

Have you tried to splash the wall with water with a mortar brush before troweling the mortar on. It will suck the moisture out of the mortar and dry it out otherwise. Using mortar with a lot of sand in it generally does not stick well vertically, we use to add portland to brick mix to mortar the seams in manholes.


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

I used a water spray bottle. I also applied the mortar with a finishing trowel, should I be using another trowel that will maybe be easier to work with?


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## drewhart (Jul 13, 2008)

there are liquid bonding agents that you can brush on first. they look like milk, one made by sika and one by quickcrete i have seen. i m sure there are others.


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## danthemandan (Mar 19, 2007)

rory535 I have this same problem in my basement, I would love to to to know how this worked out for you and what you ended up using.


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

Sorry the reply is so late. Anyway, I ended up using a mason mix Type S mortar. I had another wall where I knew I was only going to do certain patches and used Quikretes Quickwall product. I ended up only doing patches on both walls and in hindsight would have only used the Quickwall product. Much easier to work with and really strong. I originally went with the mason mix as I wanted the wall to "breathe", not block out any moisture as I was going to do the WHOLE wall. But only doing patches, I think I could have gone with using it.

To date, I have not noticed further moisture issues, but now I dont have plaster on the wall, so Im sure if there are, it breathes through. I have a Kilz primer on the wall, so it would also be difficult to see potential moisture issues, but I did wait months before applying it, to see if I noticed moisture seeping through and did not. 

I also took steps to improve issues outside the house like sealing and more gutters etc.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

apologies since i didn't see this thread til this am,,, afraid all your fine work's for naught  that old ' stash & stella ' conc's so porous there isn't anything that'll work on the negative side,,, to manage the wtr, you need to do a perimeter excavation &, after allowing the fnd walls to dry, apply a trowel'd on waterproofing coating to the walls AND the footer down to the base of it,,, an effective wtr management system'd also include a ' toe drain ' leading either to daylight OR a sump from which the collect'd wtr's mechanically removed ( pump )

its not a ? of ' if the repairs'll fail ' but only ' WHEN ' ! ! ! thoro makes some fine products & we used them successfully for many yrs,,, however, selecting a good product & using it for an unapproved purpose negates any product effectiveness or warranty,,, kilz is also a good product when used properly unlike ' drylock ' type products which suck imo,,, we never found it to be permanent - even in MY house  the wtrproofer was right ! ! !

4 rules of wtr: 1, it runs downhill; 2, takes the path of least resistance; takes the path of least resistance; & 4, rush's to fill a void,,, we could add a 5th - man is not meant to live underground UNLESS he 1st designs & builds for that occasion,,, in other words, no one can fit 5gal of wtr into 4gal bkts yet,,, i've found there's been no change over the yrs,,, the simplest solutions're still the best.

to address the ' 2 layers of mortar ' issue, its not uncommon to find that owners/workmen have, over the yrs, made improvements to the wall's appearance OR attempts to stop wtr,,, impo, that explains the parging.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

on the bright side, this was a diy job so you didn't get ripp'd off & you've only work'd for less than min wage,,, the only thing hurt's some self-esteem - small price to pay & we've all done it ( me more than most it seems sometimes - as others, i'd like to have wtr run uphill :laughing: )

saw a tag line something to the effect ' measure twice, cut once, throw away & cut again ',,, more truth than many of us admit ! ! !


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

I appreciate the concern but so far things are working out. If they dont, I'll readress. I had 2 basement waterproofing companies come in and give me their assessments and suggestions. The one that took the most time in evaluating the home, the issues etc before making a recommendation, said excavating was an extreme measure and also warned of serious issues that can happen with foundations when excavating around an old home.

As I mentioned I have also addressed common issues with moisture in basements.....that being inadequate gutters, drainage etc.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

keep this thread handy so you can refer to it in 5yrs,,, maybe the suggestions, in hindsight, will seem more pertinent when you're rebuilding part of the foundation,,, as usual, many posters enter here seeking anonymous reinforcement for pie-in-the-sky unworkable solutions instead of making the hard choices to do it ONCE correctly,,, if you think this is personal, it ain't as none of us ' know ' you,,, might want to read '

obviously the ' pro ' who diss'd the excavation makes more $$$ on other systems & doesn't possess the nec skill/knowledge/experience to undertake the proper method as we did many over the yrs - common sense's still better'n anything else - might want to read this thread - http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/what-do-about-bowing-moist-foundation-walls-50333/#post311139 - easily could be you soon.


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## rory535 (May 14, 2008)

That may be, but a year into it, things are still good. And if ur they type of person that goes for the most extreme fix, regardless.....all the power to you! Like you said, worst case, I have to get it done anyway but at least I know I tried other recommendations before forking out a fortune....call me crazy! But thats okay, because you will see enough reports done on this, to suggest that other alternatives be pursued first like I mentioned, grading...gutters etc. before jumping into expensive and unnecessary solutions. Seems logical to me, why treat the symptoms, without addressing the cause. 




> obviously the ' pro ' who diss'd the excavation makes more $$$ on other systems & doesn't possess the nec skill/knowledge/experience to undertake the proper method as we did many over the yrs


As for "dissing", its what they do (foundation repair and waterproofing),........this was their recommendation on what they saw. Pretty honorable if you ask me, there was a lot more money to be made by them recommending everything but, what they recommended to me, wouldnt you say? By the way, although you mentioned it is "obvious" they arent pro's, the company and techincian that came out was a certified structural engineer and waterproofer.




> easily could be you soon.


 - Well seeing as my walls arent bowing and havent in 80 years, I'll take my chances!

But I'll be sure to look you up for advice if I have problems as you seem to be a 'pro' at this.


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## Flocko96 (Feb 9, 2021)

I have the same problem in the basement of a house from 1916, just wondered how your fix has held up over the years?


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