# Privacy Fence Post 10' Apart



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

A 10' gate is pretty huge. Is this a double gate that latches in the middle or is it one 10' long gate? Either way, your gate posts need to be super strong. I used 6x6 CCA on mine and sunk them in a big 4' deep hunk of concrete. 

Using bigger pieces of wood will make for a sturdy gate, but won't keep it from sagging one bit. You'll have to cross brace to do that. Personally, I'd use a cable and turnbuckle, from the high corner on the hinge side to the low corner on the latch side. The closer to 45 degrees the cable is, the more effective it will be. 

If your gate is a single 10' gate, abandon the cross brace idea. You need a welded frame. My suggestion would be to purchase a pre-made livestock fence panel gate and use tek screws to attach your fence pickets.


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## wrldruler (Aug 21, 2008)

To clarify, I don't need this to be a 10' gate really. Just a 10' section of fence, which, once every 5-10 years, may need to come off to get a truck into the backyard. I just want to make sure that section doesn't sag and look bad.

Thanks


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

The 8' oc posts and 8' fence sections you read about are usually about pre-fab fence sections...( made off site and trucked or trailered to site to install.) Typically pickets installed with staples etc....

Most customs fence I have seen if over 8' wide never more than 12'... use a 2x6
top & bottom nail rail...

I have not been involved with any code issues on this...,but I'm sure they exist. 

Hint: install wood block under the nail rail on the post for the removable section... It will allow remove and reset with out stressing the wood and fasteners at post or rail... when you need to remove a section.

you must have a big pickem-up truck that the mirrors will not fold close to the body..

good luck ...hope this helps.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Ahhh, I get it.  Since you're spanning 10', I'd suggest that you use nothing smaller than a 2x6. I think to be safe I'd use 2x8. You could also help keep it from sagging by diagonal bracing the frame in the shape of a big V...The bottom of the V being the middle of the section.

Lift-off gate hinges would be a real slick way to attach it. Plus, they'd keep it from twisting and would let you avoid having to unscrew anything when you need to remove it.


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## daxinarian (Jul 9, 2008)

Something one of my former neighbors did that I thought was pretty slick: One of the fence posts was removeable. He poured the footing with a partial sleeve for the post, then used concrete anchors and angle brackets to mount the post. When he wanted to get access he detached the two panels on either side of the post, removed the bolts attaching the post to the brackets and low and behold, 16' gap in the fence. The angle brackets were still there but his truck and trailer had plenty of ground clearance.

I think the post went ~2' into the footing and there was a piece of PVC in there to allow it to drain. Sorry I don't remember it more clearly its been 4-5 years since I lived there.


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## homerepairtips (Sep 2, 2008)

If order to prevent sagging, I would upgrade that section of the fence to 2 x 6's, this should take care of the problem


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