# Best way to finish ceiling drywall by an amateur?



## NCpaint1 (Aug 13, 2009)

The ones applied with a roller are kind of junky....this coming from a paint guy. More like a band aid, not a good look. Go rent a texture sprayer. You can spray the popcorn type finish, or knock down. Your tape joints still need to be decent. The texture will hide some, but not everything.

Im in the process of drywalling the ceiling in my basement...im hiring out the taping. I dont own stilts, and learning to use them...not gonna happen. Pick your battles, and hire the rest out. Contractors need work too


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

If only you knew how much I'd like to hire this out. But I'm trying to rescue a house we bought 6 years ago for $25,000, and that was BEFORE the bottom dropped out of the real estate market! The only time anything good happened to this house was in 1928, when they did a major remodel, added a second storey, replaced light fixtures and windows, and clad the whole thing in 3" reveal cedar siding, which still doesn't have any rot. The trouble started in the late '40s when they covered it in asphalt shingles. Since then many, many bandaids have been slapped on, and we're trying to bring it back to its proud Arts & Crafts self. When we bought it, the only drywall was in the addition that was tacked on the back. Nowhere else in the house was there any drywall OR plaster. Everything is sheathed in 1" boards with at least 12 layers of paper. So these past 6 years have been spent removing all that paper and drywalling everything. And I'm a graphic designer! Ha!


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## NCpaint1 (Aug 13, 2009)

This Old Spouse said:


> If only you knew how much I'd like to hire this out. But I'm trying to rescue a house we bought 6 years ago for $25,000, and that was BEFORE the bottom dropped out of the real estate market! The only time anything good happened to this house was in 1928, when they did a major remodel, added a second storey, replaced light fixtures and windows, and clad the whole thing in 3" reveal cedar siding, which still doesn't have any rot. The trouble started in the late '40s when they covered it in asphalt shingles. Since then many, many bandaids have been slapped on, and we're trying to bring it back to its proud Arts & Crafts self. When we bought it, the only drywall was in the addition that was tacked on the back. Nowhere else in the house was there any drywall OR plaster. Everything is sheathed in 1" boards with at least 12 layers of paper. So these past 6 years have been spent removing all that paper and drywalling everything. And I'm a graphic designer! Ha!


If it were me, id rent a texture sprayer and go to town. You could texture the walls while you're at it if you really wanted to.

OR...(and i'll get flamed for this) slap some thin drywall right over the paper and forget trying to strip it all off. OR add some bead board and a chair rail, and slap some drywall on the upper half of the walls.


You want it done right? Quick? Or Cheap?....those are your choices :thumbsup:


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Well, now you're talking. The dining room is just about done, but I still have a bathroom, mud room and kitchen left to do (on a tiny budget). I may have to borrow your idea about the chair rail and bead board for the bathroom. Nearly all the paper has been stripped, except for parts of the kitchen ceiling. The problem with these 1" sheathing boards is that they were all hand-sawn so they're not consistent. But I'd sure love to get away with just drywalling the top half of that room!


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Keep in mind one important thing that seems to take most of us a long time to get through our thick heads.

You only have to sand off the EXCESS drywall mud you leave behind on the walls! Be smart, and learn early to lather on that mud sparingly. It is TEN TIMES easier to gently wipe off with the knife (drywall trowel) than it is to sand off after it hardens.

Truth of the matter is that if done carefully and lightly, the drywall finish on the ceiling will never have to be sanded at all! You will easily be able to apply a spray-on texture right over only knife finishing........ with no sanding, whatsoever.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

BTW, should you chose to texture over existing wallpaper, please first use one of the available wallpaper primers that all paint dealers carry.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Willie T said:


> BTW, should you chose to texture over existing wallpaper, please first use one of the available wallpaper primers that all paint dealers carry.


I mentioned earlier that the paper is mostly gone. Just some in the kitchen:










This poor house was abused for decades, and it's going to take at least a decade to make it look decent. It felt like a home right away, but it will be nice to feel good about inviting people over to just talk about how NICE it looks! :laughing:


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Good! It really is best to go ahead and remove all the wallpaper.

But even then, you may find that you could experience "bubbling" problems if you don't use the D/W Primer before painting........ and sometimes even some of those hassles when you DO use the primer. Old 'removed' wallpaper is often tough to get a good finish over despite seemingly removing all of it.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

This stuff is already bubbled up because the place wasn't heated for a winter season, and all the hot water pipes burst. Plus I hate wallpaper and I like tearing it off the walls. Not only is there wallpaper, but it's been painted over as well. There are spots in this house where the walls were papered, like an underlayment, with 110-year-old Finnish newspapers. They used what they could get, apparently.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You can rent a power drywall sander---They work well--$50--or so including the pad --bag and paper--Just a thought.--Mike--


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Stoner is very correct in that a professional will know where and how to properly prepare the surfaces for spraying. And that is probably one of the most important aspects of the job.
As far as the actual spraying is concerned... sorry... you probably won't need a pro for that. 
I'm not saying a trained monkey could do it........... but close. No insult intended here at all, but this is not rocket science.

Experimentation is the key. That and an artistic eye.

I have three texture sprayers, a larger compressor/hopper fed hose Graco gun, a little two gallon handheld hopper, and a tiny 'patching' rig. They are all simple to use.

Play with these things on some scrap, and within an hour or two of concentrated effort you will be able to come so close to duplicating a pro's job that no one will ever know the difference.

1. Mixture thickness (really 'thinness')
2. Volume of mixture feed (a couple of settings for this)
3. Air pressure
4. Tip size
5. Aiming angle
6. Distance from surface
7. Pattern coverage
8. Speed of gun movement.

Sounds like a lot, but it really isn't. You're actually just evenly splattering blobs of texture mixture on the ceiling or wall surface then (if 'knockdown') *VERY GENTLY* flattening those blobs with a wide, smooth knife blade as they begin to dry.

Go ahead and hire a pro if you feel intimidated. No shame in that. But you are a DIY person, and as such I believe you will swell with pride in mastering this simple process for yourself.

Neat thing is if you don't like the outcome, it all scrapes off fairly easily while it's still damp. Maybe a little sanding required afterward to get the wall smooth again. And it's not very expensive at all. I can do the average bedroom with less than ten dollars of material... that includes plastic dropcloths and tape... ceiling and walls.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

oh'mike said:


> You can rent a power drywall sander---They work well--$50--or so including the pad --bag and paper--Just a thought.--Mike--


Has anybody used a drywall vacuum sander? It's about 20 bucks, and looks like it would do what I want it to do ... sand AND remove the dust, which is my biggest complaint about the whole process. 

A few years ago I borrowed from a friend a contraption that used a 5-gallon bucket half-filled with water, a bunch of hoses and my shop vac. The idea was to pull the dust off the walls or ceiling, and when it hit the bucket with the water you had no dust. It was a bit cumbersome but really did cut down on the dust. Wondering if I could rig the vacuum sander to run past a water-filled bucket ... :001_tongue:


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

This Old Spouse said:


> Has anybody used a drywall vacuum sander? It's about 20 bucks, and looks like it would do what I want it to do ... sand AND remove the dust, which is my biggest complaint about the whole process.
> 
> A few years ago I borrowed from a friend a contraption that used a 5-gallon bucket half-filled with water, a bunch of hoses and my shop vac. The idea was to pull the dust off the walls or ceiling, and when it hit the bucket with the water you had no dust. It was a bit cumbersome but really did cut down on the dust. Wondering if I could rig the vacuum sander to run past a water-filled bucket ... :001_tongue:


Just keep in mind that power sanders make it awfully easy to go overboard and sand much of the paper surface of the drywall. Even with priming, these fuzzy areas are hard to cover to the same surface hardness and 'feel' as unsanded drywall. Point is it paints differently when sanded if you don't do a fair bit of repair finishing. If you are spraying, not that big of a deal.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

If you have done a LIGHT, SMOOTH and careful job of drywall finishing, try lightly brushing the rougher surfaces with a large damp sponge. Works pretty well when no dust is permitted.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Willie T said:


> Just keep in mind that power sanders make it awfully easy to go overboard and sand much of the paper surface of the drywall. Even with priming, these fuzzy areas are hard to cover to the same surface hardness and 'feel' as unsanded drywall. Point is it paints differently when sanded if you don't do a fair bit of repair finishing. If you are spraying, not that big of a deal.


The drywall vacuum sander isn't a power sander. It just hooks up to the shop vac to take away the dust. I know what you mean about taking too much off! I did that once and ended up putting more compound on it ... basically starting over.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

This Old Spouse said:


> The drywall vacuum sander isn't a power sander. It just hooks up to the shop vac to take away the dust. I know what you mean about taking too much off! I did that once and ended up putting more compound on it ... basically starting over.


Did you know that the reason you often see all three or four of the screw holes covered in one long stripe of drywall mud is for that very reason? Individual screws are hard to cover and sand without scuffing up the paper around each screw. The long stripe makes sanding so much easier in that you just keep inside the perimiter of the long stripe. Neat, huh?


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

I wish I could do that in my house, but it's so strange I have to do each one individually! The other thing about the one long stripe is that it's so much easier to make it disappear. WISH I could!


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I've used the powers sander--Porter Cable--There is a small learning curve,but not bad. 

When you first try it use a fine grit paper to reduce the likely hood of over sanding.
After you get a feel for the machine-go to a more aggressive paper.

Sure cuts down on the dust---much flatter than hand sanding,too.

Use a sanding sponge on corners--a strong directional light will help find missed spots,

Count on some touch ups after priming.---Mike---


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> I've used the powers sander--Porter Cable--There is a small learning curve,but not bad.
> 
> When you first try it use a fine grit paper to reduce the likely hood of over sanding.
> After you get a feel for the machine-go to a more aggressive paper.
> ...


So very true! And it seems to be something that it is almost impossible to get across to kids coming up in the trades today. I guess the "instant gratification" generation expects to have to only take one swipe at something and that should be it.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

This isn't a power sander. It's a hand sander that's hooked up to a shop vac that's hooked up to a 5-gallon bucket half-full of water to cut down on the dust. Looks like this:








I've used this type before, and this one I just got from Freecycle! Sure, I'd rather have a power sander, but this will do in a pinch.
:thumbsup:


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Don't you just LOVE Freecycle!?!?


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Willie T said:


> Don't you just LOVE Freecycle!?!?


Yes, yes, yes!! I also love our landfill. My favorite place to shop! We got enough Sheetrock there to redo our living room. The only problem was the corners were dinged, but that was such an easy fix that I had to do it. Plus we got our storm windows, lumber, fencing, sink, shower stall (new) :thumbup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

We understand you have no money to hire this out.... as you said it twice. I suggest watching some "texturing" videos on "You tube" and reading about it. 
I seldom use my vac sander, usually knock the high ridges off before they set up with a blade. Last coat I sometimes sand, mostly a wet sponge or mason's float (or tile setters) in a dust-free setting. Very minimal. 
The smaller hand-held hoppers work just fine, even the mini from Harbor Freight, though it takes a *lot longer* for big areas. I've used a mini with a two h.p compressor for a smaller bedroom 4 different times, they are great for touch-up- better than the canned texture- and cheaper...
This will get you started on the basics, click on the titles with “Preview” in the title; http://www.google.com/search?tbm=bks&tbo=1&q=spray+texture&btnG=Search+Books

We are here to help you DIY without a pro, if the results are acceptable to you, so ask away….

Gary


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Those hoppers could also be used for an orange peel texture on walls, I imagine. The ceiling is coming out fairly well, and I love the look of old-style orange peel texture on the walls. 

In my little castle's addition, the folks didn't even bother smoothing or sanding the finish on the joints, just painted right over, so now there are blade marks all over. I'm still trying to figure out how to fix it!


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

This Old Spouse said:


> In my little castle's addition, the folks didn't even bother smoothing or sanding the finish on the joints, just painted right over, so now there are blade marks all over. *I'm still trying to figure out how to fix it*!


Since you like sanding so much. Just sand it.:whistling2: :laughing:...









-Paul


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Since you like sanding so much. Just sand it.:whistling2: :laughing:...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hey, if you like the work so much, c'mon up to northern Minnesota, where it'll be dropping down to 20-25 below zero! :tt2: That oughta freeze your smile on your face! :laughing:


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## stoner529 (Nov 12, 2010)

Sir MixAlot said:


> Since you like sanding so much. Just sand it.:whistling2: :laughing:...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah or skim coat over the wall and sand that.

You can always buy a stucco brush and throw the mud on the ceiling that way for a knockdown and let it sit for a bit, then flatten it out. I never advise doing this stuff though in -20 degree weather. the mud doesnt dry right.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

stoner529 said:


> i never advise doing this stuff though in -20 degree weather. The mud doesnt dry right.


lmao!!


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## chrisBC (Dec 28, 2010)

Texture is fine, you might want to get it done by a pro, will cost a bit but they will be in and out and will do a nice job, you don't know what the results will be if you've never done it yourself and are going to attempt it. You might save money if you move all furniture yourself and cover everything up and put up poly for them.

On the other hand, if someone has gone through the trouble of 3 coats of mud for a nicely finished flat ceiling, it really should not be a lot of effort to sand it.

If the mudding was done properly the sanding should not be excessive, very minimal if someone skilled did it. As mentioned above bigger bits can be knocked off, sand out the rest.


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## masterofall (May 27, 2010)

Let me get this straight. You bought a house for $25,000 Where do you live? I can't get a lot for under $160,000 and the neighbours want $590,000 for something that is so steep it would cost minimum $100,000 to put a foundation on it


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Yep, bought it for 25K and added a few thousand on top of the loan to redo the HVAC and hook it up to city sewer. We're in northern Minnesota next to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, and places in town are still pretty cheap. This was about to foreclose and the owners were a little desperate to get some cash out. It had hot water heat and they abandoned it in the winter, the pipes burst and did a lot of damage. We've been here almost 6 years and are trying to piece it back together, but much better than it was. This place has a reputation for having people buy it, do some damage or try to fix it up a bit resulting in an epic fail, then sell it to the next unsuspecting person. It sold about 15 years ago for, I think, about $1500, the cost of back taxes. It's actually a really good house with lots of promise, and we're trying to bring 'er back. Last summer we stripped the asphalt shingles off the porch and revealed perfect cedar clapboards and even some cedar shake trim, so we've decided to pull all the shingles off. It just takes me a long time to do all this work because, as I said, we don't have the money to just dive in and do it all at once. But I'll have some great before and after photos once it's all done! And before anyone else says it AGAIN, we simply can't afford to hire pros to do anything. That's why I joined this board, so I can get expert advice and attempt it myself. And by the way, the drywall turned out pretty well. :thumbup:


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I know how pleasantly surprised you were to find good siding underneath! I did the same with my bungalow, cedar shingle, no damage under slate shingles. Researched before painting "Craftsman" exterior colors. 

Glad the drywall turned out well! 

Gary


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Just to put this topic to bed ... I found the best way to finish off the joints is with a damp grout sponge and a gentle hand. It all looks pretty good and I'll be ready for primer tomorrow. YES. :thumbup:


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## stoner529 (Nov 12, 2010)

This Old Spouse said:


> Just to put this topic to bed ... I found the best way to finish off the joints is with a damp grout sponge and a gentle hand. It all looks pretty good and I'll be ready for primer tomorrow. YES. :thumbup:



Wow! That is the exact same instructions that come with joint compound.

At least it is on a green top bucket.

You probably should have gotten that bucket and you wouldnt have even had to start a thread.


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## thisoldspouse (Mar 31, 2010)

Damn. Blue top bucket.:wink:


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