# Window putty won't dry - wet atmosphere



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

By putty, do you mean window glazing?


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## DIYNovice0 (Jan 5, 2010)

Hi!

On the tube it describes it as acrylic polymer glaziers putty. 

The one I have is made by Unibond.


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## stuart45 (Jun 20, 2009)

If you use the old fashioned linseed oil putty, it stays soft for about a month. It doesn't mix with water so it won't get wetter. You can't paint it for at least a fortnight, or when it skins over.
I've never used the modern putty, but it is probably similar.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

DIYNovice0 said:


> Hi!
> 
> On the tube it describes it as acrylic polymer glaziers putty.
> 
> The one I have is made by Unibond.


 
I would remove that and replace with the real glaze that I posted


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## Red Squirrel (Jun 29, 2009)

Try to point a convection heater or a high wattage lamp at it, it might help. Just make sure it's fire safe and don't leave it unattended. Also remove any drapes for now as they'll trap moisture in.


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## DIYNovice0 (Jan 5, 2010)

*Thanks everyone!*

Thanks for all your replies.

I think that I will have to start again, with an oil-based putty.

Better get to work...!


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

Glazing windows was an artform that my Granddad taught me years ago, and I've done many since then. When you stated "On the tube", that was all I needed to read. I, ME, do not like the newer products in the tubes-and I have given them a decent trial. As "chrisn" stated, IMO, you will really need "window glazing" such as the DAP 33 product. Window glazing is not something that I feel is easily learned in one trial either, proper glazing take practice to form proper seals, and is well worth it. As stated, good glazing contains Linseed Oils and does not dry out soon. I would remove the material used, and obtain some DAP 33 and start learning how to glaze windows. Good Luck, David


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## Penczak (Oct 26, 2009)

I'll add if you have never done it it is very time consuming. I learned the hard way, too.


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## william duffer (Feb 10, 2010)

I had a problem with some leaky windows this winter, i put some kitchen and bath caulk on and will deal with cleaning and redoing it right when it gets warm. It dried pretty fast. no leaks.


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

you need to stop the moisture from FORMING to begin with.
I'd dry the windows off, then put some sheet plastic (window weatherization kit) around the frame to make a dead air zone.
when the weather breaks, THEN you can putty and it'll dry just fine. although the double seal is still preferable for the next year as it helps hold in your HEAT too! I'd also consider double-paned windows being installed.

DM


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## Skuce (Nov 2, 2009)

Everything you'll ever need to know about how to make Windows and Putty good.

http://historichomeworks.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=16&sid=6620f67bebf64af15806d3a7ada51777


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

why is the putty on the inside


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

tpolk said:


> why is the putty on the inside


I was thinking the same thing since the opening post, but thought it may be a window style I'm not familiar with. If the windows are glazed properly there will be a small amount of putty on the inside. This is what the glass is bedded in. If you need to re-do it then the window pane should come out, all the old putty removed, lightly sand, prime and reglaze.


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## Skuce (Nov 2, 2009)

The only time there should be putty on the inside is the side/transom lights on Georgian/Neo-Classical/etc front entrances. Show off the cool muntin mouldings to your guests coming to the door.
Otherwise the putty is to the outside so the people in the house get to view the cool muntin mouldings.

Either way...you should not be using anything that comes in a Tube to do windows.

Knife grade, natural oil putty is the only way to go. It's been used for at least 700 years. That's not a bad track record for a product if you ask me.


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