# Radon problems need help



## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi all, so we are getting the house ready to put on market. Bought one of those 4 day Radon tester and the results show we have a dirty house(basement). Two samples done at same time to lessen possibility of error had one at 9.7 and other at 9.9 with 4.0 being the maximum acceptable level (even this number is considered high and work should be done to bring it down).

1. We live in New Jersey
2. House is 15 years old 
3. I installed Radon fan, I assume I purchased the appropriate one for the size of the house?, at time house was built to get Certificate of Occupancy. I can't remember getting house tested at that time but would think that was part of process. Radon mitigation is a big deal here in New Jersey
4. Just installed manometer to check performance of fan. It is pulling 1.3.
5. No big cracks in foundation, couple thin cracks but no separation. 
6. I looked at the fan the other day but didn't see a name plate (dark and cramped spot in attic) to help determine what its specifications might be. 
7. Superior Walls, poured floors, couple inches of crushed stone below floor.

So what am I doing wrong? Do I need another fan? A bigger one? or an additional pipe and fan to help pull out the air under the basement.

thanks

Walt


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

Sorry to hear you're a victim of the Radon mitigation scam. I too was "forced" to install it when I built my house here in WV. Fortunately, I don't have a basement so all I needed was a passive system in the crawl space. Being of the same opinion as me, the inspector said he didn't care if it was completed just as long as he could see a vent pipe from the crawl space up through the roof. So I have one, and it's not connected to anything.

I worked in the nuclear power industry for nearly 30 years, so know a bit more about radiation that the average person. Even at the levels you have, you would need to live in your basement 24/7 for many years to have even a remotely greater chance of getting cancer than the average person. There are myriad things that will make you sick or kill you long before Radon will.

Assuming, unfortunately, that you'll be forced to remedy this "nonissue" somehow, you can't just run about buying the fan you "think" you need and a few pipes. A true active mitigation system has to be designed by an engineer and properly installed. If it's such a big deal where you live, that should've been done when the house was built, since now you'll likely have to jackhammer up your basement floor.


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi md2lgyk, I have a certified Radon mitigation guy coming over tomorrow. As far as I can remember AND how much faith I can put into what my builders said at the time (subsequently I had to fire them and take over finishing house to get C of O) I was told they ran a perforated pipe across the length of the basement through couple inches of crushed stone to pick up the Radon and expel it out the pipe I later placed through the basement floor at the spot they said they had placed the pipe. Although I never did find their pipe. I had so much trouble with everything they did and didn't do like getting inspections so that the state inspectors had my wife and I in their office time and time again blaming us for what the builders did wrong. So I think I would have had to pass the Radon test back then after getting their approval on the correct system to install. Don't want to contact them to find out one way or another. But will let this guy coming tomorrow figure that all out. I was just hoping that a bigger fan would be able to pull more and suck from beneath the basement floor. Since the fan is 15 years old it is probably on the way out anyway.

Yes, this part of New Jersey has naturally forming Radon and there has been so much hype about it that everyone is super sensitive to the numbers. I just want to get one more thing off of my "to-do-list" so when potential buyers get inspection they don't have to many bargaining chips.

thanks

Walt


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

This will sound misdirected but hang with me. Is it possible that your whole house is under negative pressure? If yes, the neg. pressure will pull air, moisture and raydon from every nook, seam and crack in the house, including porous concrete. Neg house pressure is created by simply trying to exhaust more air than were bringing in. Under size soffit vents that are not balanced with your ridge vent can cause it significantly. 

Your raydon pump may be tying to exhaust it, but your whole house may be tying to suck it in.


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

walt1122 said:


> I just want to get one more thing off of my "to-do-list" so when potential buyers get inspection they don't have to many bargaining chips.
> 
> thanks
> 
> Walt


Yeah, I get that. Having bought and sold maybe a dozen houses since my first one in 1976, I know how buyers can be. Idiots, mostly. And cheap ones at that. Hope things work out for you.

I'd think if Radon is such a big deal, any mitigation system would have to be designed and installed by a contractor licensed to do so. That's the was it is here for septic systems (gotta save that Chesapeake Bay, don't ya know).


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi md2lgyk, Don't get me started on septic systems. We spent 13 grand on ours here in New Jersey and it was considered a cheap job cause they didn't have to remove all the dirt and replace it with approved soil. I am keeping my fingers crossed cause most homes fail the new standards and have to get their whole system replaced. 

When we built in Tennessee they kept apologizing for the cost of that system. I had to install a pump up system to keep the field away from the creek behind out house cost me a whopping 3,500 bucks.

take care

Walt


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi Yodaman, I hear ya' but doubt it. If you know what a crappy job they did insulation and putting the ty-vec on the house you would understand how unlikely that is. When we had the blower test done on the house to get a discount from the electric company for building a tight house I had to promise that I would do more caulking and sealing cause we had so many leaks he didn't want to pass us. I have made many improvements but doubt I will ever be able to make this a "tight" house. For example I have had to put "child-proof" covers on outside outlets cause there is so much air infiltration through them that you feel a blast of cold air in winter. There in no insulation between the floors of out two story home. We get freezing cold air pass by the vinyl siding into the house. 

While I was checking on the Radon fan in the attic I happened to step over the distribution box for the heating system. I felt warm air and looked down to see that the sections, all 5 of them were either not clamped together or done so poorly that they leaked like sieves. Then I looked a the end caps and they had just been put on the ends with one screw each. Both had gaps you could put your hand through. Nothing but shoddy work on everything on this house.

Walt


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

basement floor sealed? some coatings claim to retard raydon migration. And I agree neg. house pressure is not likely with a poorly air sealed house. Any trouble with damp basement walls or high humidity in the winter? Windows or attic surfaces condensating? Also signs of neg. pressure from lack of attic ventilation. We'll be curious to hear what your expert has to say. Keep us posted.


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

walt1122 said:


> Hi md2lgyk, Don't get me started on septic systems. We spent 13 grand on ours here in New Jersey and it was considered a cheap job cause they didn't have to remove all the dirt and replace it with approved soil. I am keeping my fingers crossed cause most homes fail the new standards and have to get their whole system replaced.
> 
> When we built in Tennessee they kept apologizing for the cost of that system. I had to install a pump up system to keep the field away from the creek behind out house cost me a whopping 3,500 bucks.
> 
> ...


OK, you win LOL. I'll never complain about my septic system again. Mine was "only" about $5K. The well, now that's another story. My neighbor's is 300 feet deep; mine didn't even hit water until 800. It was $12K before we were done. And I had to install a treatment system because it's lousy water.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

We have alot of radon "issues" in the Rockies.

I do not recall the water differential of a new fan.... but just as a pragmatic consideration, I would try a bigger fan unit.... depending if you can get them, they are only 200-225, and of course you can just bolt them on.

With crushed stone, and assuming your suction pipe is set in the gravel, sure seems you should be able to get below 4.

Don't know your basement finish, but if you can silicon any cracks, any cold pours like footer to stem... it's sure worth it.

And, making sure you are not creating a negative pressurization is an excellent suggestion.

Around here we do have Radon companies that will guarantee their results... and will install auxillary systems if necessary. Basically they run 900-1200.

I'd sure try these fixes before jackhammering up slab, and trying to locate the perforated drain.... and etc etc.

Good luck


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Wow I thought radon had went the way of the dodo bird.


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Thanks MTN REMODEL LLC, I will let the "expert" take a look and make recommendations. Couple of the ones I called did guarantee their work. This one was the cheapest to come out and take a look. I'm all in favor of just replacing fan with larger more powerful one. Today, I cut the pipe and put a cap on the suction end. It went up to just about 2 from the 1.4 when attached so I know it is pulling at less than its max limit. 

Yodaman, very small cracks would have to open them up to seal them. Lot of work will hope the guy tomorrow has some other ideas that might be easier on my wallet and back.


md2lgyk, yep you got me beat! Our old house we built in 1976 had a well too. After going down 600 feet and not finding more than a quart per minute of water the driller said, "well where do you want to drill next?". It was 15 dollars a foot and 20 dollars a foot for the first 50 feet of pipe. I got in touch with Rutgers geological society who informed me that the well driller should have known that the aquifer can be found at 180 - 240 feet and nowhere else. The driller should have stopped drilling at 250 feet and moved to another spot giving me more chances to find the water. Ten homes in our area all found water within 240 feet. I fired him and had to install a high performance pump myself down at the 480 foot mark. Worried about electrical line losses at anything greater than this distance. The water came to within 75 feet of the surface so I had 500 gallons of water in the pipe. Just had to be careful because of the slow recovery. We owned that home for 32 years and never had any problems. Really amazing thing, the pump is still working today. Not sure if they still exist but the Lancaster Pump Company sure made a hell of a good product. A family of four live there now and they love the place. I often wish we hadn't sold and build this one. We went with city water with this place. Only problem, poor water pressure. We are less than a hundred feet down from the municipal tank. I get 40 PSI in basement but drops to 30 ish on second floor showers. I have installed a booster pump to bring up the pressures to more normal strength. 

Thanks Everybody

Walt


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You will mostly get high readings in areas that the soil was contaminated from illegal dumping, winds picking up soil and distributing across the area, from the dismantling of a production facility. Also there are a lot of areas that are being found now, that the military did not disclose to cities, that were used for the testing and enrichment of Uranium.

If I were to go down to Metropolis, IL right now and do a Radon test at various points around the area. Every one of them would show high spikes, because Honeywell operates a plant there, that has been there since the 1950's, that takes raw Uranium Yellow Cake, and turns it into an enriched product.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

At least the good thing about it. You will have no moisture problems under the slab.


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Honeywell? Never heard of any of their facilities doing that. I worked for Allied Signal for 15 years and they were no angel and have a checkered past (anybody remember Kapon?). In early 2000 Allied bought Honeywell and took the Honeywell name because of better consumer recognition. I worked in the pension area so I often heard or knew about many of the companies we merged with or bought. Never heard of any that were involved in such activities. But you are right, there have been and still are abuses by corporations and our government. But that is a discussion for another post.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Yep. It is still on lock out for coming on a year now, because the Steelworkers union will not pull up their big boy pants.

As many times as a lot of companies have merged and split, it is worse than trying to follow a road map sometimes. My wife's company over the years, has gone through something like eight name changes and three splits.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Walt you were correct. It was Allied Signal that owned that plant. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ConverDyn


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
How did your radon issue ever turn out? I put a system in my house two years ago and went from a level of 4 to 0.4. I did it myself for total cost of about $300.
If you want to PM me I can give you some details. Those that say radon is of no concern need to look at the history of Uranium mining. What people never seem to understand is Radon is only the first step. Radon has a half life of 3.8 days. In 3.8 days 1/2 of the radon in your house decays into radioactive Polonium, which has a half life of three minutes at which time 1/2 of it becomes radioactive lead 214. This process continues thru eight different radio active elements until it becomes stable lead 204. So if you believe Radon is harmless how about the seven other radioactive elements that are in your house or lungs/tissues? Radon at the high levels found in uranium mines has been proven to cause cancer. The issue for homes is how much is safe? That is not an easy question to answer so that is where the controversy arises. Most European countries have set the level they consider safe lower that the U.S. Sweden for example has established a level of two versus our level of four. If it is all a conspiracy to sell radon pumps I would like to know how it works. How did we get the whole world to join in and how is the money made from selling a radon pump divided among all the co-conspirators?


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi ddsrph, still waiting on the test results before I buy a replacement fan. I did a test with fan off to try and get "worst case" numbers. I had a certified Radon mitigation technician take a look at current system. After looking at system from below basement floor to out the roof the only possible problem is a tired motor. He felt the fan should be pulling more than the 1.3 when running and the almost 2 I was seeing when I sealed off the pipe and fan sucked against the capped pipe. I think it is fanco 150 or something like that. He said it is a standard size an depending on just how high the results are when I get them back I will find a larger one to clean up the basement. I agree Radon is a NO NO. The State says I have to get it under the 4 and I don't want this as an issue when we list.

Thanks All will let you know where I wind up

Walt


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
Thanks for the reply. I will be interested in what you find out. I am building a new house and will be installing another system. This time I put a perforated drain around the inside of my elevated slab draining to outside and also stubbed up into house for a later radon pump if needed. My plan is to run that stub (3 inch) PVC pipe up thru roof for a passive system and get a pump only if needed. My present house has a full basement and I drilled thru it for a three inch pipe also. The company that sold me the $200 dollar pump had a technician on retainer giving free advice he told me to drill the hole for the three inch pipe then remove a five gallon bucket full of dirt and gravel thru this hole creating a cavity for the radon to collect. I did this and carefully sealed the pipe slab interface and ended up as previously stated a drop from 4 to 0.4. I think everyone who has any concern about Radon should spend the small amount and test their house. Only then can they make any kind of intelligent decision on what to do. Unless someone with a PHD in an appropriate field can convince we otherwise I Plan to follow WHO and EPA guidelines. 

JM


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

WOW! So just got the results back. I turned the fan off for the duration of the second test and I got.

*AVERAGE RADON LEVEL *(average result of two tests) : *165.9 pCi/L*

*Guess the current fan is doing a Hell of a good job after all. Got it down from this 165.9 to 9.9. 
*
*Looks like a bigger more powerful fan is in my future!*

*Walt
*


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

walt1122 said:


> WOW! So just got the results back. I turned the fan off for the duration of the second test and I got.
> 
> *AVERAGE RADON LEVEL *(average result of two tests) : *165.9 pCi/L*
> 
> ...


Walt
I can't remember the exact numbers but I think a level that high is a move out immediately amount. You can look at what the EPA recommends they have thresholds for different recommended actions. I even wonder about the lab and the test accuracy. I got my test kits from Kansas State University as they seemed to be big in Radon research and public information. I saw a good article on their website and decided to go with them. There was a house in Pennslvania that had a level of 2600 and was discovered by its owner tripping a radiation detector at his job. When Radon decays into its first daughter element Polonium it and the seven others that follows are all solids and can become "stuck" in the lungs for a long time. Some are actually absorbed by the body and move into other tissues. It's really good you have the pump and weren't exposed to that high level except for a few days. Please keep us posted on how the new pump performs. 

JM


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Walt - I know you are focused on the underachieving air pump, and I hope a more powerful pump will solve your problem.

But if it does not..............
Awhile back I touched on the possibility of negative house pressure and the effect of Raydon migration into the home. I came across this paper by a forensics consultant group. Here is an excerpt on the topic.

 "When a building is constructed, pressure differentials between the interior of the building and the exterior of the building are inadvertently created, especially when there is a significant temperature difference between the interior of the building and the outdoors. This pressure differential, delta P (DP) is mostly due to a phenomenon known as the "Stack Effect". The building mimics an exhaust stack and is under negative pressure with regard to the surrounding environment including the atmosphere and the soil gas below the slab. Typically, the DP is greater toward the bottom portion of the building and is equalized near the top of the building.
 To satisfy the negative pressure in the building, the net air movement toward the bottom of the building is from the outside of the building to the inside of the building. It has been estimated 14that as much as 20% of this infiltration comes from below ground level. This 20% infiltration accounts for between 80% and 90% of the total radon which enters the building.
 In the early days of radon investigations, it was assumed that drafty houses would have less radon than "tight" houses. Additionally, it was assumed that houses with high exchange rates would have lower radon concentrations than houses with few air changes per hour. Contrary to expectations, studies performed thus far show that there is no correlation  between "tightness" of a building and the radon concentration 15,16. Very low radon concentrations are commonly seen in very tight buildings and high levels are often seen in the leakiest of houses.
 Therefore, the second most important factor in radon entry into buildings is the DP. Several studies have shown that a very strong correlation between DP and radon concentration exists. All things being equal, the greater the pressure differential, the higher the radon level.
 Since most commercial buildings fitted with industrial heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems are designed to keep the structure at positive pressure, excessive radon levels in commercial buildings in the U.S. are rare even in "high radon" areas. Typically, the most successful radon reduction techniques are those which address the driving forces of the pressure differential."


For some lite reading here is the link to the entire paper 

 http://www.forensic-applications.com/radon/radon.html#Positive Pressure

Simple soffit to attic ventilation techniques can effect your indoor static pressure.

Good Luck with the raydon and house sale


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

I just read an interesting article about the 4 pico curie action threshold recommended by the U.S. EPA. The main point of the article is the EPA and WHO does not promote this level as safe. The EPA considers this level to still make Radon 1000 times more risk to health than any other EPA carcinogen at their respective "safe" level. The only safe level is zero which is of course impossible. One has only to look at the daughter product cascade and count the alpha and beta particles giving off as Radon progress to stable lead 204 to realize that it isn't something you want in you lungs or tissue. The good news is it isn't that hard or expensive to take corrective action and get your house levels well below 4.


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi Yodaman, thanks for the article. That could make a lot of sense. With the house as breezy as it is that could be part of the problem. I have tried everything short of ripping out ceilings and floors to get foam or insulation between layers of the house. I think I will just buy the larger fan and see what that does for the numbers.

Hey ddsrph, think we are neighbors! We have a house ( 3 car garage w/apartment above) down in Coalmont, Tennessee. I hope to get this house radon levels well below the 4 pCi/L. If the old fan got me down to 6.9 pCi/L then a fan designed to pull twice as much should work. I left a message with one of the fan manufacturers to see what they think. Will keep you all informed.

Walt


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
Your Tennessee house is very close to me. The next time you are down look me up. I am in the Tullahoma, Tn phone book. James L. Miller DDS, Magnolia Ln.
I am retired and around most of the time. Building a small house at Tims Ford Lake, near Lynchburg.


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Boy could I use your help today. Bad toothache. Need to get an appointment with my dentist here to get root canal. 

Yeah, we go to Tullahoma all the time. Wife loves that eatery at the old Coca-Cola bottling plant. Then, of course, there is Lowes. How did we ever live without them.

Well, time to get dentist on the phone. 

Take Care

Walt


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt 
If you ever decide to bail out of the land of taxes and retire to Tennessee I can fix you up with a good dentist. Kidding aside is retiring here someday part of your future plans?

JM


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

We were on track to be retired and living in Tennessee by now but 2008-2009 happened and like everyone else our 401K took a nose dive and house prices tumbled. We bought the property, part of a 600 acre subdivision on the Cumberland Plateau adjacent to the Savage Gulf State park in 2007 at the height of the market, ouch!!! Property reminds me of this place 40 years ago before suburban sprawl. Back then nobody in their right mind would come this far out into Jersey to live so far from New York. But times changed and everyone is here now. Just to busy.

Had a local guy erect the 3 car garage and it is adequate for our current needs. Just some place to get away to in winter that isn't as bad as here in NJ. Wife hates winter and I'm tired of shoveling snow. Once we sell this place we will put proceeds into our dream house down there. 

Got some good drugs to kill the pain and see the Dr. tomorrow for couple root canals. Should work out fine. Not my first rodeo. Bad dental hygiene as a child and paying for it now.

Got the radon fan but to hot to work in attic today. Might go up there after dinner to see what I might need to get it working properly.

Great talking with ya'

Walt


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
I don't see how anyone could afford to retire in New England area due to high cost of living. Smart move moving to TN. The next time you come down give me a call. I will show you the retirement house I am presently building. I am doing much of the work myself.

JM


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
Any news on your Radon problem? I just paid for a test kit to test my sisters house in Southern Indiana. Still waiting for results. I did some checking on how Radon levels relate to other radiation health risks. I haven't confirmed from multible scources but one article said a level of 15 pico curies per liter was the same risk as smoking a pack of cigarettes per day. A level of 4 picocuries per liter was the same radiation exposure as 200 chest X-rays per year. I wonder if the people who say Radon is not a problem have a personal level at which they would feel uncomfortable with for themselves or their family? To simply say "low level" is meaningless unless you know what level you are talking about. Your situation clearly demonstrated that when you turned off your pump and saw 165. You will probably be coming down my way this summer. Be sure to look me up.

Thanks
JM


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi ddsrph, just sent in the test kit today. I waited a couple of days before I started the test to hopefully have the basement back to more normal numbers with the new fan working and removing the radon before it got into the basement. Yes, it is a mistake to underestimate the dangers from radon. It may be hard for many to understand because you can't see the radon but there are enough studies showing what even small exposures to radiation can do. Hope your sisters house doesn't have any problems. Thanks for the offer, maybe we can get together later in the year. Wife has us booked for a couple weeks in Europe. Daughter works for BASF at their German Headquarters and we try to get to see her at least one a year. Do some sightseeing through Italy, Austria, and even France this time. Daughter has a new boyfriend who lives in Paris and promised to show us a good time when we get there. Meanwhile, we are still trying to get house ready to put on market. 

Take Care

Walt


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
Sounds like fun. I am a retired Navy Captain and can travel for free but with this house project never seem to find the time to take advantage of it. 

Thanks
Jim


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt

I just sent you a PM with my contact info when you return to Tennessee.

Thanks
JM


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## walt1122 (Aug 16, 2007)

Hi everybody, just an update. Sent the Radon test sample in and have received the results back from laboratory. 

It is all good!

* AVERAGE RADON LEVEL *(average result of two tests) : *1.1 pCi/L*

*The new fan seems to be doing what it is designed to do. *

*A thank you for all your help goes out to everyone. *

*Now on to the next project.*

*Take care all*

*Walt
*


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

thanks for the follow up with results, this way we all get to learn something.


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

Walt
Very good news and proof positive that Radon pumps work. To go from 165 to 1.1 is amazing. If 4 pico curies is equivalent to getting 200 chest X-rays per year then 165 can't be good. Your case should give people a hint that maybe they should at least check their home levels. 

Jim


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## rafaelrobertson (7 mo ago)

ddsrph said:


> Walt
> I can't remember the exact numbers but I think a level that high is a move out immediately amount. You can look at what the EPA recommends they have thresholds for different recommended actions. I even wonder about the lab and the test accuracy. I got my test kits from Kansas State University as they seemed to be big in Radon research and public information. I saw a good article on their website and decided to go with them. There was a house in Pennslvania that had a level of 2600 and was discovered by its owner tripping a radiation detector at his job. When Radon decays into its first daughter element Polonium it and the seven others that follows are all solids and can become "stuck" in the lungs for a long time. Some are actually absorbed by the body and move into other tissues. It's really good you have the pump and weren't exposed to that high level except for a few days. Please keep us posted on how the new pump performs.
> DIY radon test kit
> JM


We're in the process of building a new house in Eastern Tennessee. The state of TN and the county in which we are building has a higher occurrence of radon gas than many other areas in the US -at least according to the US EPA.

Our build is still at the foundation stage and we expect framing to begin soon.

I'm leaning toward getting a certified radon contractor to install a mitigation system in the crawlspace; where a constantly running fan creates positive airflow to help vent radon gas from beneath the home.

Anyone here have any experience or expertise in this area? If so, I'd appreciate thoughts and advice.

Thanks


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## ddsrph (Nov 23, 2013)

rafaelrobertson said:


> We're in the process of building a new house in Eastern Tennessee. The state of TN and the county in which we are building has a higher occurrence of radon gas than many other areas in the US -at least according to the US EPA.
> 
> Our build is still at the foundation stage and we expect framing to begin soon.
> 
> ...


You are at the perfect stage to do something. There are a lot of examples online about how to do it. With a dirt crawlspace it would entail digging a small trench to bury a perforated plastic French drain type pipe with a stub up to connect a radon pump to. Then cover entire dirt floor with a vinyl sheet. They make a 15 mil vapor barrier to go under a slab that would work well. The pump can be outside or maybe in attic. I have done two systems at two houses I have built. One had a full basement and I had pump outside. My current house is on elevated slab and I put the pump in attic. If you are a DIY type its not hard to do a system with all the info online about the things to do and not to do.


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## Msradell (Sep 1, 2011)

rafaelrobertson said:


> I'm leaning toward getting a certified radon contractor to install a mitigation system in the crawlspace; where a constantly running fan creates positive airflow to help vent radon gas from beneath the home.


The radon system should create a negative pressure, positive pressure, to ensure radon doesn't build to high levels.


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