# If you had $250 for a drill, what would you buy?



## Crackers (Aug 8, 2007)

Got a nice birthday present coming to me! 

$250.

Want a drill to
1) Drill
2) Screw 

My current drill (corded Dewalt) is useless on screws as it constantly spins out of control. My other one (Craftsman 18v) is good, but dead.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

http://www.toolbarn.com/product/makita/LCT200W/


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

What are you going to use it for? I know "Drill and screw". I don't need a drill to that, but is this just for a home handyman or for daily use on a job? Are you only doing hobby work or putting up garage doors, Kitchen cabinets, putting down wood decking, etc.?? Almost any of your 18volt cordless drills with 1/2 inch capacity keyless chucks, the hammerdrill feature, 2 or 3 speed gear boxes, variable torque settings, and possibly a light are the cats ass. I personally like Dewalt, Ryobi, Mitsubishi, and Makita. The Ridgid line also looks like a keeper though I haven't had the pleasure to try them out. All these have good warranties, good repair plans, and are easily availabile.


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## MALCO.New.York (May 29, 2009)

HD has a special on the SUPERIOR (opinion) 18v Lithium Drill with Light, Radio (poor little thing) and Recipro, two Batteries and Charger for under 300.00.

Also has a coupon (still valid???) for a free Max Steel Impact Driver!!!

I have used RIDGID since 2000. 

I am NOT NICE to my tools and they have NEVER bucked!!!










http://www.toolsnob.com/pictures/ridgid_compact_drill-thumb-200x246.jpg











http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/f9/f9b0db64-1a76-4266-9b6b-817e9137f589_300.jpg











http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/400/41/4193f5a1-1a61-423f-b1fb-10131fd98aec_400.jpg










http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41VcNIamoAL._SL500_AA280_.jpg










http://batterybank.net/digital/powertools/images/Ridgid_140315001.jpg




All that for less than $300.00!!!



I also have:










http://images-cdn01.associatedcontent.com/image/A7510/75107/300_75107.gif










http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidCordlessCombo/RidgidCombo_HammerDrill.gif











http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidCordlessCombo/RidgidCombo_CircSaw.gif










http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidCordlessCombo/RidgidCombo_Light.gif











http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidCordlessCombo/RidgidCombo_Charger.gif


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I don't think I paid $250 for my 3/8" & 1/2" hammer drill combined
The 1/2" Rigid has lots of torque, great for LVL screws & other stuff
The 3/8" DeWalt I use for everday stuff


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## Highlander (Mar 2, 2009)

I would recommend getting both a drill and an impact. $250 should be able to get you a good set. That Mikita set looks pretty good; it is also $279 at HD. Any major brand should do. Pick them up and see how they feel in your hands. I have a RIDGID pair, really love them.

What's the chances of drilling into masonary? If it is just about zero, don't get fixated on getting a hammer drill. There is a lot more choice (and the drills are lighter and cheaper) if you don't insist on that feature. Probably better to buy a cheaper corded hammer drill if, and when, you need it. If you need to drill masonary, you will probably want the extra power a corded version gives you.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

If you want to make holes, get a drill. If you want to drive screws, get an impact driver. You'll never be sorry, and you'll NEVER go back to driving screws with a drill. For $250 you should be able to find a fairly decent combo kit that has both. I would go with a company that makes a variety of tools using the same battery system so you can build your collection at Christmas, Fathers day, Anniversary, Halloween, Flag day.....................:laughing:


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

$250.00? Hmmmmm.... Let's see..
$200.00 for a good 1/2" Rigid w/hammer and that leaves me $50 for Beer!


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

I second the Makita kit but I'd get the hammer drill version of the kit.


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## jrepp (Aug 20, 2007)

*Good advice from Maintenance 6*



Maintenance 6 said:


> If you want to make holes, get a drill. If you want to drive screws, get an impact driver. You'll never be sorry, and you'll NEVER go back to driving screws with a drill. For $250 you should be able to find a fairly decent combo kit that has both. I would go with a company that makes a variety of tools using the same battery system so you can build your collection at Christmas, Fathers day, Anniversary, Halloween, Flag day.....................:laughing:


Best tool investment I have made is an impact driver, I use it all the time to drill holes, drive screws and small impact sockets. (20v lithum from Sears).


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## Highlander (Mar 2, 2009)

You do know that the Craftsman 20 volt Lithium line is really the same as any 18 volt line.

Lithium batteries come in 3.6v nominal, 4 volt max (I think they are cut-off at 4.2 volts to prevent overcharging). Thus 5 batteries at the nominal rating are 18 volts (as used by most lines), and 5 batteries using the 4 volt number = 20 volts.

I think a lot of the smaller lines (compact) changed the voltage rating from 10.8 volts to 12 using the same rationale. Same batteries, same tools, but the higher number makes it seem more powerful........ marketing!

Just another note for anyone with the Craftsman C3 line. The 19.2 volt NiCd battery has more power than the Li battery. This is because the NiCd battery has 16 x 1.2 (nominal voltage cells) = 19.2 volts nominal, while the Li battery has 5 x 3.6 (nominal voltage cells) = 18 volts nominal.


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## gotboost (Sep 5, 2008)

Once you use an impact it's hard to pick up a screw gun again..

I use a C3 Craftsman 19.2v and the new compact Portert Cable impact these put the cordless drills to shame..


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## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

I second the Makita LCT200. Get the hammer drill only if you use it often enough to make the extra size and weight worth it. I have the hammer drill but would prefer to have the non-hammer drill. It it came in the kit I bought with a few other things I needed. As someone said above, if you use the impact a few times you will never go back to the drill/driver. I bought a couple of sets of the hex shank drill bits and use them in the impact most of the time. The 1/4 and 3/8 socket adapter is really great...

Rege


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## Crackers (Aug 8, 2007)

Wow. My use is general stuff around the house. Lots of weekend projects, most aren't big (although I built a deck and a shed last summer  ).

QUESTION:

For general use (mostly screws), what is the advantage of the Hammer capability that everyone seems to like over a regular spinning?

H.


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## Clutchcargo (Mar 31, 2007)

Crackers said:


> QUESTION:
> 
> For general use (mostly screws), what is the advantage of the Hammer capability that everyone seems to like over a regular spinning?
> 
> H.


Drilling into concrete. I've tried using a regular drill to drill concrete and several hours later, I went out and bought a hammer drill.
The hammer drill only took about 15 seconds


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## Highlander (Mar 2, 2009)

Not sure what the real question is. You could be asking one of two things.

1) The hammer function on a hammer drill is of no use for putting in screws. The hammer action is along the bit (into the material being drilled), and might even make it more difficult to screw with the drill as it will add additional friction (you probably would not notice it). The primary function of the hammer action is to 'pulverize' morter/concrete/brick to allow the flutes of the drill bit to remove the material when drilling holes into these materials. 

2) On an impact driver, the impact action is rotational. When the resistance is low, the impact driver works like a drill and does not provide the impact action. Once resistance above the basic motor capability is met, the impacts start (like a little hammer, 3,000 times a minute). This is in the direction of rotation and so helps to seat a screw. The result of this is: a) The tool does not twist in your hand when resistance is met, b) Provided you keep some force pushing on the screw, there is much less chance of the drill bit camming out of the screw head, and c) You get much higher effective torque to seat a bolt/screw, for example, whereas 18 volt drills advertize torques in the range of 400 in-lbs, 18 volt impact drivers advertize torques in the range of 1400 in-lbs. 

I love my impact drivers, but find there are a couple of disadvantages: a) It has too much muscle for small cabinet screws, b) I've not had this problem, but you can twist the head off screws if not careful, and c) they are noisy.


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

A regular drill/driver depends on speed to develope the torque needed to drive the screw home. An impact driver sacrifices speed for torque and it has a kind of ratchet built into the transmission that turns the screw or bolt in short sharp pulses that allow it to drive all sorts of fasteners without tearing up the heads. When you are doing any job, especially for pay, you don't want to destroy your work faster than you can complete it.


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## Highlander (Mar 2, 2009)

The higher torques on a drill/driver are on the lower speed setting. the spped of my impact is 2x that of my drill. They are just different animals.


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## stevejones147 (Sep 23, 2009)

*Best cordless drill for $250???*

Well you have plenty of choices available to you - and good ones too!!!

I would not go the dewalt route, I do not rate them too highly myself.

why not go with this drill:- Panasonic EY6432GQKW from Panasonic of course, this cordless drill is 15.3volts - which is more than enough power, *and it is a light* - this is very important if you are going to hold it for long periods of time in akward positions.

It also has batteries which last longer than any other cordless drill batteries out there, it says so on their website anyway.

Hope you find this useful, if you find a better model then feel free to tell me what it is.

cheers
Steve


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

stevejones147 said:


> why not go with this drill:- Panasonic EY6432GQKW from Panasonic of course,


 
Is it just me, or do the rest of you also feel like you are getting spammed when a new member joins and his very first post is a response to an old thread, where they plug a product and/or web store....

Maybe it should be like PM, where a new member can't list a brand name or link until they have made at least 20 posts


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## Highlander (Mar 2, 2009)

I thought the same thing; wasn't worth the effort replying.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I generally edit out the links if a new user
If they keep it up (only links & spamming) they get banned for spamming


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## Grampa Bud (Apr 6, 2009)

Guys, don't set yourself too high up on that pedestal. Everyone has their own opinions. Nothing wrong with that. Personally I was browbeat by Scuba Dave a couple of times and now I am reluctant to venture back to a website where other opinions count seemingly far more than mine. All I am saying is let the man speak. He may surprise you with a tidbit you hadn't thought of. As for Mr. Jones liking a 15.3 volt power source I would like to suggest a 12 VDC or some variation of it that can be had from a work truck or other vehicle's cigar lighter circuit. I base this on 20+ years of working out of a truck without any 120VAC source to run a standard charger.


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## Mr Chips (Mar 23, 2008)

Grampa Bud said:


> Guys, don't set yourself too high up on that pedestal. Everyone has their own opinions. Nothing wrong with that.


I wouldn't waste my time here if I didn't value the opinions expressed. all I'm saying is that some of these opinions often feel forced, especially when it's a brand new user, responding to an old thread, inserting a link or two. This thread was only a few months old, the ones that are three or four years old are the most obvious...



Grampa Bud said:


> As for Mr. Jones liking a 15.3 volt power source I would like to suggest a 12 VDC or some variation of it that can be had from a work truck or other vehicle's cigar lighter circuit. I base this on 20+ years of working out of a truck without any 120VAC source to run a standard charger.


Most of the cordless tools do have a 12v charger option, regardless of tool voltage. In other words, you can charge an 18v battery with a charger that plugs into your 12v cigerette lighter. I have a one for my Makita's. It will charge my 12v, 14.4v, or 18v Makita pod batteries, and I know Dewalt and most of the others have them too


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Mr Jones is in the UK
So different tools/voltages over there I would think


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## Highlander (Mar 2, 2009)

Both car and tool batteries are the same. The big difference is the AC voltage for corded tools.

I have a Ryobi car charger for their 18 volt batteries.


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## Bowhunterman (Sep 22, 2008)

jerryh3 said:


> http://www.toolbarn.com/product/makita/LCT200W/



I agree! This is the best drill / impact that I have ever owned....hands down.


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## rahfiki (Jun 23, 2009)

I purchased a Makita lithium ion set 18 volt 3 summers ago. If you try it out, I am pretty confident you would not go back to most drills.

It is a hammer-drill which takes care of almost anthing an average homeowner would need it for, as well as an impact driver. I guarantee if you get the impact driver you well NEVER use a drill again for screws:thumbup:

I am a contractor and I use my Makitas every day. I highly reccomend them. The lithium is sweet. Very light, charges in 23 minutes and holds a charge for a lonnnnnnng time. The Makitas are very comfortable to use as well, which is very important if you use them all day.

You can get a Makita set like I mentioned for $200-300. Make sure it is Lithium batteries. They have two kinds, a 1.5 mh size and a 3.0, I have the 3.0 so I cannot say much about the smaller size other than I think it is more geared to homeowners with smaller capacity and perhaps lighter ( and cheaper to buy).

My opinion is if you are going to use it a fair bit...scrape up the xtra cash and get a good combo of drill/impact. You will be more than pleased.


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## stuart45 (Jun 20, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Mr Jones is in the UK
> So different tools/voltages over there I would think


Quite right Dave, our voltage is 240. However safety regs on site require the use of 110 V equipment using a transformer as too many workers had a shocking experience with 240v ( it does wake you up). Therefore many of our drills work off 110v. De Walt tools are not as highly rated by most tradesmen any more, Makita seem to be more popular.


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## Locsmithy (Feb 26, 2021)

Crackers said:


> Wow. My use is general stuff around the house. Lots of weekend projects, most aren't big (although I built a deck and a shed last summer  ).
> 
> QUESTION:
> 
> ...


Masonry, when putting anchors into blocks, slabs etc.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

check the age of the thead before posting, especially if you are reading the stuff under recommended reading at the bottom of the pages.

we don’t revive old threads around here. They clutter up the current questions/problems.


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## colin123 (Oct 9, 2014)

Highlander said:


> You do know that the Craftsman 20 volt Lithium line is really the same as any 18 volt line.
> 
> Lithium batteries come in 3.6v nominal, 4 volt max (I think they are cut-off at 4.2 volts to prevent overcharging). Thus 5 batteries at the nominal rating are 18 volts (as used by most lines), and 5 batteries using the 4 volt number = 20 volts.
> 
> ...


Voltage is not a measurement of power it is a measurement of electrical potential. The power of the drill will depend on the wattage of the motor


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

another 12 year old thread revived.


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