# Please help me fix this cracked wall!



## whatupdun (Jan 5, 2012)

Hey guys,

Total rookie here, but I need to make a couple repairs before I move out of this place and don't have any friends IRL who can help with this sort of thing.

Here's a crack I put in the surface of the wall when a kitchen cart fell into the corner. I don't know the name of the material, but as you can see it's a white plastery uneven material with a medium gloss. Beneath that is some kind of metal corner that I hope I need to completely obscure, especially because it's bent up quite a bit.

Forgive my ignorance and feel free to correct me, and I'm sure I can get this done with some clear instructions! :thumbsup:


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Not an easy fix, in order to fix the outside metal corner at a minmum it would need to be cut out at least 6", new piece installed, then drywall compound spead over the flaws. The last parts the hard part, that a knock down finish and next to imposiable to just patch and have it match.
The whole wall from floor to ceiling would have to be redone.
I'd suggest if you have never done this before to hire a drywall guy to do it. Most likly there going to suggest removing all of it and starting over which would be the best way.
If the texture was not on there it would be simple.


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

I'll take a stab at this...

Hammer down the metal in the corner a bit. Pack mud over the whole works. After it dries, sand it flush, sand and reshape that 90-degree corner. Prime. 

Lowes/Home Depot sell paintable textured wallpaper with that exact pattern. Slap some on, cut it to shape. Paint to match. Cross fingers and hope nobody notices before you move.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

You don't need to cut the metal corner out, just bend the lip back carefully, sand the metal with 60 grit sand paper, so the mud will stick good, re-mud and shape the surface to match. It will still probably be noticeable no mater what you do though.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

My experience with fixes like this is that fixing, mudding & smoothing it isn't going to be the problem. Matching the texture will be. As Joe said, were it not for the texture, this would be an easy fix. I'd sand down and/or skim coat both surfaces, floor to ceiling, and get the the knock-down to match as closely as possible.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Good luck trying to bend that corner back in place. What's going to happen is it will pop off more material, there will be a hump there and it will end up crushing the sheetrock more under it.
A simple cut with a hack saw and using a replacement piece will leave a flat area to work from. Been there done that before.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

joecaption said:


> Good luck trying to bend that corner back in place. What's going to happen is it will pop off more material, there will be a hump there and it will end up crushing the sheetrock more under it.
> A simple cut with a hack saw and using a replacement piece will leave a flat area to work from. Been there done that before.


I have done it before with good results. Cutting the corner will leave a weak corner and all that will be holding at the joints will be mud.


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## luckyrabbit (Jan 4, 2012)

with JOE on this one.. not an easy quick fix.. and cutting the cornerbead will weaken it???? lots of screws .. will fix that! I would say mud both sides to get rid of the texture from top to floor if possible or ask to landlord if you were renting if just replacing the corner cut out and replace then refill leaving the texture aswell.

LR


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## whatupdun (Jan 5, 2012)

Thanks for all the replies.

Is 'mud' joint compound? Sorry, I know that's about as simple a question as they come, but like I said, this isn't something I've talked with friends about, so I'm not up on any of the jargon.

Seems like I need to bend that corner bead, apply a few coats of joint compound, match the texture and paint.

*Will I be able to match the texture with a sponge or some other tool?*


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

Yes, mud is joint compound. You can get gallon containers of it reasonable cheap. Also there is adhesive fiberglass tape which may help you mud the "new corner" which is probably the best way to go. Matching the texture will surely be the toughest part of the repair.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

Okay let's get this over with.

Do as suggested in Post #4.
Yes "mud" is "joint compound" and you will need to buy a one gallon tub of it. Use a six inch (wide) putty knife to apply and shape the joint compound. Your existing wall will guide your putty knife in a flat and straight manner. It will probably take you two or three applications of joint compound. Once everything is filled properly sand everything smooth and shape the filled corner area to match the rounded corner areas above and below.

Now,
Add some water and thin the joint compound slightly. Use a paint brush (the bigger the better) and get the brush soaked with joint compound and then dip the brush into the bucket and pick up plenty of joint compound. Then sharply fling the joint compound on the wall. Do it as often as you need to to cover the flat areas you have repaired.

Give it a few minutes then using your six inch putty knife lightly and carefully drag the putty knife over the wet/damp joint compound to flatten the surface to match the rest of the wall. Let it dry. Then use a damp sponge to blend whatever requires blending to the old texture.

You won't get a perfect match but you'll do good.

After the corner is repaired and formed this whole texturing thing is a four minute job.

If you screw up the texturing, scrape it off and do it again.


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

Sure, it's inexpensive, and there's nothing wrong with having extra for future repairs, but you absolutely do _not_ need to buy an entire gallon of compound.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> Sure, it's inexpensive, and there's nothing wrong with having extra for future repairs, but you absolutely do _not_ need to buy an entire gallon of compound.


Jheeezh!!!

Jay, the sky is blue!
Care to argue about that now?


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

whatupdun said:


> Thanks for all the replies.
> 
> Is 'mud' joint compound? Sorry, I know that's about as simple a question as they come, but like I said, this isn't something I've talked with friends about, so I'm not up on any of the jargon.
> 
> ...


You can go several ways - none of which are going to be perfect. 


If it were my project, after filling in the damaged area, I'd sand down the texture on both surfaces - floor to ceiling - mask off the area, and spray on this knock down "texture in a can." You can get the stuff at Lowe's, HD, Menards, etc. It is stupidly expensive for the volume you get ($25), but the 2-pack should be more than enough for you. 










You could also try what Bud suggested - flinging thinned mud with the paint brush. There's almost no chance you'll come close to matching the existing texture, but since you'll already have the mud, you're not out anything to try.

Another option would be to rent a texture hopper & compressor, and apply it like the big boys do. But that's just plain over-kill.


Remember that this is not an exact science. "Close" is probably as good as you're ever going to get it.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

Jay 78 said:


> Sure, it's inexpensive, and there's nothing wrong with having extra for future repairs, but you absolutely do _not_ need to buy an entire gallon of compound.


 
Where can you possible get less than 1 gallon?:devil2:


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

If a six inch broad-knife is used as I think it should be then you can just barely get that knife into a one gallon bucket as it is. And then you can't go very deep with it.

Oh sure, one could empty out the bucket onto another surface but that would serve to cause the mud to dry-out prematurely but I suppose suggesting that could keep this thread alive well into 2015.


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## EvilNCarnate (Jan 27, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> If a six inch broad-knife is used as I think it should be then you can just barely get that knife into a one gallon bucket as it is. And then you can't go very deep with it.
> 
> Oh sure, one could empty out the bucket onto another surface but that would serve to cause the mud to dry-out prematurely but I suppose suggesting that could keep this thread alive well into 2015.


 I was actually recently surprised while working on a small patch and I needed some compound. I used up the last of my gallon and ran to lowes to grab some more. Figured I would grab another gallon and then I spotted that they have new containers shaped like a mud trough. I knew I would end up needing more at some point but also knew I would like to have the trough shaped one to put with my tools for additional use. It came with a crappy plastic knife too, figure it will come in handy for scraping something some day. 

But, yeah, I would get a 1 gallon bucket. That way you have some for nail hole patches and future "oops" issues. Any time the wife wants to change things up, you can patch the old holes, sand, paint and make new ones. Little water will bring that old compound right back to life again. :thumbup:


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

> they have new containers shaped like a mud trough.


That's a helluva good idea I think. The trouble is if a person likes to thin his mud slightly that trough thing isn't the way to do it. But then I use five gallon buckets anyway so it doesn't matter but for DIY's that's a good idea.


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## EvilNCarnate (Jan 27, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> That's a helluva good idea I think. The trouble is if a person likes to thin his mud slightly that trough thing isn't the way to do it. But then I use five gallon buckets anyway so it doesn't matter but for DIY's that's a good idea.


 I know, I dont use 5 gallon buckets but I have used many a gallon of mud. I like to make my own consistency too, I dont like how thick and chunky the stuff comes stock, bit of water and work always makes it smoother spreading. Like room temp butter.


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

Bud Cline said:


> Jheeezh!!!
> 
> Jay, the sky is blue!
> Care to argue about that now?


I wasn't arguing with anyone about anything, just simply stating a fact to make a self-proclaimed "total rookie" aware that he doesn't_ need_ a gallon. This job looks to me like it can be handled with a few loads of the knife. There will be plenty extra even from a quart container if he's just patching the offending area.



Missouri Bound said:


> Where can you possible get less than 1 gallon?:devil2:


I'm assuming this is meant to be sarcastic, but I don't get it. Care to explain?


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

Jay 78 said:


> I wasn't arguing with anyone about anything, just simply stating a fact to make a self-proclaimed "total rookie" aware that he doesn't_ need_ a gallon. This job looks to me like it can be handled with a few loads of the knife. There will be plenty extra even from a quart container if he's just patching the offending area.
> 
> 
> I'm assuming this is meant to be sarcastic, but I don't get it. Care to explain?


 
Of course. I've never seen any less than a gallon container...not in hardwae stores or the big boxes. I would think it should exist somewhere, but I've never seen it. Wasn't meant to be sarcastic, believe it or not.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)




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## bareshiyth (Jan 6, 2012)

*Whatever*

Evil .... Bud Cline's advice is pretty good. I fix this type damage all the time, maintaining a (affordable = low income - HUD subsidised) senior building. Powered wheel chairs & scooters do it regularly. But I'll add a few words to make sure a "newbie" is clear on details.
Take that mud (about $6 or $7) and trowel it on both sides of the corner. Make it match kinda close, making a corner again, then let it dry. It will shrink. So do it again. Then use a drywall sander ($5 + or - in a cheapie), though any sanding block will work. Sand it down to flush or even with the two walls, so the corner looks like the same above/below. Now the texture matching IS THE TOUGH part, so be patient & try again & again til you think it looks good. The best way is to paint (with primer is best) the new mud, so your wet mud texture doesn't soak the new sanded corner buildup and spoil it. Then mix a cup of mud with a little water to get a thick soup. Blot that onto the smooth repair with a sponge, or cheap brush or wrinkled rag. Let it start to dry, and lightly run (like smooth) your trowel to flatten it to look like the rest. If it doesn't look good, wipe it off and try again. ETC.


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

Missouri Bound said:


> Of course. I've never seen any less than a gallon container...not in hardwae stores or the big boxes. I would think it should exist somewhere, but I've never seen it. Wasn't meant to be sarcastic, believe it or not.


That's interesting. All the stores around me have it, big box or otherwise.


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## whatupdun (Jan 5, 2012)

Thanks for all your suggestions, fellas.

The mud application went well, so I'm going to sand and patch up a few tiny holes, then sand again, spray with some of the aerosol texture and paint. I'll post photos of the finished product so I can get some critiques, as I've never done any projects like this and would love to get feedback.

Also have a different kind of hole I'm looking to patch; posted about it here:

Please help me patch this tiny hole


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## Jay 78 (Mar 2, 2011)

Any updates?

I was at Lowes today and this thread crossed my mind. I know it's a moot point now, but I grabbed a sample piece of that textured wallpaper I mentioned in my first post.










I think it would have been a decent match.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I have seen small containers of mud at Lowe's. I think it was setting type thpugh, not sure. Seems like it was like 5 or 10 minute mud.

I have to wonder if the metal bead could be straightened some with a hand break like tool. Two pieces of angle and a pair of vice grips? Maybe hold something behind it and tap it back into shape or close enough.

Hope we get an update.

Btw, I have use crumbled up newspaper and a wisk broom to match texture fairly good.


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