# Best caulk for metal windows and brick walls



## Windows (Feb 22, 2010)

The best caulk I have ever used in manufactured by a Quebec company - Mulco Supra Expert.

http://www.mulco.ca/en/industriel/produits/Produits_c_ext.htm

It cannot be tooled so there is a learning curve for the application, but I would think it to be ideal between metal and masonry because it remains so elastic.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Before you buy any caulking, read the label; some types won’t work in cracks or joints less than ¼’’ wide; others work well only in narrow cracks. Take note of any precautions and follow the directions when you’re using the product. 

Now before you can apply new caulking, you’ll have to re-move the old caulking. First, dig out or chip off all of the old caulking with a putty knife, old screw-driver, or scraper. Then brush the area with a wire brush to remove debris and wipe the surface with a cloth soaked in the appropriate solvent for the type of caulking you’re removing. Before applying the new caulking, check the label to see if you need to prime the surface and plan to caulk on a warm, dry day when the temperature is between 50 degrees F and 70 degrees F In hotter weather refrigerate the caulking for an hour or two before use so the caulking won’t run.

The caulks that I would suggest to look at would be:

1) Polyurethane caulk. This type of caulk is best for almost any application, but it can be difficult to use and requires mineral spirits to clean up. It can also be painted if required.

2) Elastomeric caulk. This type of caulk is an excellent choice for most porous surfaces because of its flexibility and adhesion properties, its ease of use and water clean up.

3) Siliconized Acrylic caulk. The most popular caulk and easiest to use, this is a good choice for most applications.

Within each category of the above caulk, look for one with a 50 year warranty. It’s worthwhile to pay a little more for a better grade of caulk.


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## jackofmany (Aug 24, 2010)

NP1 by BASF -- Sonolastic - caulking sealant - that's your answer. It is used by several professional window companies to set windows. Wear a disposable glove when using. 

As far as removing caulk on brick or anything else for that matter, CAREFULLY use a heat gun capable of 600 to 1000 degrees. Wagner made, and probably still does, a relatively inexpensive one for stripping paint primarily. Works very well on rock-hard old caulks though. Main thing is - protect the wood if you're ever working around it. I darn near started a fire back in 79 on my house while doing some work on a window. I know you're working near brick, but depending on when it was done, there might be some wood shimming so be careful.


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## stuart45 (Jun 20, 2009)

Burnt sand mastic works well, although it is mainly used between timber windows and masonry.
http://www.masonsmortar.co.uk/site/burnt-sand-mastic.htm


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## Ginette (Sep 5, 2010)

So the message is there are multiple options. I do want to stick to something that will last long and is still easy enough to apply by me - aka not too experienced.

Thanks!
g.


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