# How do you handle door & window molding when you double-drywall?



## pesos (Nov 6, 2011)

I'm not an expert, but, I am not a fan of creating custom jambs and such, if truely not needed. However, if you insist, I would think you need to add a filler piece to the jamb to create that extension to compensate for the new thickness. After you drywall, the casings would then be flush again with the new walls and jamb. You will have a seam, unless you plan to also back fill the wood extension with a wood filler. Are these
jambs painted wood or stained? Painted is easier to hide and work with. 

You realize that sound also travels through floors and ceilings. How would you manage that transient pass through? Are the current walls insulated inside, even if interior walls?

Easy way here, turn the volume down and skip all of the work, IMO.


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## CZ DIY (Oct 4, 2009)

pesos said:


> I'm not an expert, but, I am not a fan of creating custom jambs and such, if truely not needed. However, if you insist, I would think you need to add a filler piece to the jamb to create that extension to compensate for the new thickness. After you drywall, the casings would then be flush again with the new walls and jamb. You will have a seam, unless you plan to also back fill the wood extension with a wood filler. Are these
> jambs painted wood or stained? Painted is easier to hide and work with.
> 
> You realize that sound also travels through floors and ceilings. How would you manage that transient pass through? Are the current walls insulated inside, even if interior walls?
> ...


Yeah, I was thinking I might have to create a custom "filler". Was hoping there was a more industrial solution though.

Flooring will have 6mm rubber underlayment and heavy wood flooring and ceiling will also be double-drywall with green glue.
Eventually, the I-Joists area under the floor will also get extra filling, and the downstairs ceiling (where noise is created) will also get a double-drywall ceiling. I'll probably skip RISC clips because they are expensive $$$.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I've never seen 3/4 drywall. More likly it's going to be 5/8.
A major pain to do what your trying to do. Every door and window will have to have the trim removed and jamb extentions made and installed.


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## CZ DIY (Oct 4, 2009)

joecaption said:


> I've never seen 3/4 drywall. More likly it's going to be 5/8.


You're right, I just couldn't remember for sure the size. It is 5/8.
NOT 1/2" like everything else around here is.



joecaption said:


> A major pain to do what your trying to do. Every door and window will have to have the trim removed and jamb extentions made and installed.


Ugh.
Still gonna do it though.


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

This is 5/8 drywall and has a 'green glue' type material built in at the factory. Worked very well in a project we did. No messy glue to deal with...

http://www.nationalgypsum.com/products/..\File\09 29 00-173.pdf


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/j-channel-drywall-edge-do-i-glue-just-put-place-15645/

Gary


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## kj6887 (Feb 19, 2012)

Have you considered using one of the "quiet rock" products? Not sure of the names right off hand but one layer is said to be equal to several layers of gyp. this will increase your stc rating and cure your trim issue. You would have to remove current drywall but that will allow you to put in sound batts and puddy pads on outlets which are huge holes in your rating. Just a thought.


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## Seattle2k (Mar 26, 2012)

If I recall correctly, the quietrock and greenglue systems don't do much to attenuate low frequencies, so it's something to consider. Low frequencies will also be a problem if you don't decouple the walls from the ceiling and floor.


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## rightit (Mar 5, 2011)

I'm nearing completion of my project (one day...:yes and soundproofed the walls adjacent to our living space and have done extensive research. If you are going to do it, you have to cover all the bases or sound will seep through. Not mentioned in the thread: electrical outlets, switches and any wall penetrations. Sound will leak right through them. Putty pads help.

It's a costly and intensive effort, but well worth doing when done correctly. As mentioned, staggering the walls will result in a much greater degree of soundproofing, but this may not be possible. Double drywall and greenglue is also very effective, as mass is a serious sound dampener. You could double drywall both sides of the room (inside the room and outside the room on adjacent walls and ceilings). 

Or if you have one room from which the noise will eminate (i.e., home theater), you could consider soundproofing that space instead.

But wherever you can stagger a wall (or better, build a separate wall, but be aware of the "triple leaf effect") or use resilient channel for the ceiling below, all the better.

This link has a lot of articles that will educate:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/category/soundproofing-articles/

You can also google the terms: Soundproofing, staggered wall, STC rating.

Good luck.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

You will find that pre-damped drywall will weigh less, and cost considerably more than buying $7 a sheet drywall and field applying the damping compound. $50-$100 a sheet specialty drywall is tough when you have a 11% waste factor.


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