# Alternatives to SLC



## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

It doesn't have to be level, just flat will do. Have you run a long straight edge around? 1 1/4 is pretty extreme, but on the other hand, the flooring companies "1/8 in 10 feet" is a pretty high bar in my opinion and is hard to achieve even in new houses. I think it's boiler plate. Still, if it is 1 1/4, that is a problem. Not sure I have a good answer besides carpet.


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

You also have to consider that carpet is visually forgiving wrt being out of flat. Hardwood on the other hand, because it is flat itself and has some gloss, will show that out of flatness much moreso than carpet. 

Also, it sounds like you don't know if the slab has stabilized. You might look into that injection process, where they drill a hole in the slab, and inject either foam or a concrete slurry that can lift up and correct a slab problem. I am not an expert in that process so I cannot say whether it is appropriate for your situation or not.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

Thin engineered flooring can be installed and let settle. That was for my bedroom though, so not much walking around and feeling the voids. One way or another, if you want perfect, costs go up. 
Look at your flooring and reconsider your choices. Pick one contractor who's willing to teach you. What kind of floor may flex more for you, what kind of gap you're willing to live with, using masonry mix and screed instead of using expensive leveler, how level does it have to be? If you're willing to forego the warranty specs. 
If the problem is a hump, thicker lumber can't bend over it. Is this a hump that spans the house or a room? How much leeway is there for a contractor to cover up some sins?:smile: Can you live with a separator (a threshold?) over the hump or must you have the one piece look? Will it work with correction of 3/4 instead of 1 1/4?


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## Still Kicking (Apr 13, 2018)

Thanks for the advice everyone. We talked with another concrete contractor yesterday and he was open to a lot of the suggestions you have given. He took a lot of measurements and will get back to us in a day or two with estimates.

After all was discussed he seemed to think that using a cheaper concrete mixture to raise the lowest points up to withing a reasonable distance then a final finish off with a good self leveling compound would be our most cost effective solution. However, the concrete will need to cure for several days or maybe longer but we have more time than money so we're okay with that.

I appreciate everyone that answered the post and I will try and post pictures when the job is completed.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Do you by any chance live in an area with expansive soils??


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Still Kicking said:


> Thanks for the advice everyone. We talked with another concrete contractor yesterday and he was open to a lot of the suggestions you have given. He took a lot of measurements and will get back to us in a day or two with estimates.
> 
> After all was discussed he seemed to think that using a cheaper concrete *mixture to raise the lowest points up to withing a reasonable distance then a final finish off with a good self leveling compound would be our most cost effective solution.* However, the concrete will need to cure for several days or maybe longer but we have more time than money so we're okay with that.
> 
> I appreciate everyone that answered the post and I will try and post pictures when the job is completed.


I did almost exactly this in my own personal home and it worked great... however the conditions were not exactly the same.

One, I had no issue whether the sub base was stabilized. The sunroom off the kitchen had been built 1.5 inches lower... had to do with forgetting a double base plate. THE ROOM WAS STABLE. 

I was on 3/4 ply subfloor with 16" strong joists (probably around a L540+).

It was not all level though.

JUST TO SAVE MONEY (and some weight) I measured and screwed doen different thicknesses of ply for in effect a filler.... sometimes tapering/sanding their edges.

Then went over it with a stapled down diamond screed.

Then 25 bags of SLS.... it was a little less than $30/bag then... (I think it is just low $30's today.

My cover obiously varied with my layered plywood... but was probably in general 1/2 to 1/4- inches thick.

Then 20x20 tiles matching the kitchen.

Came out great and was lasting probably 18 years and doing fine .

Good luck


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## Still Kicking (Apr 13, 2018)

We have a lot of clay in our soil and we have a lot of underground springs so the soil does sort of act like the ocean as the clay gets wet and expands, then dries and retracts. Almost everyone in our area has trouble with their slabs in one form or another.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Still Kicking said:


> We have a lot of clay in our soil and we have a lot of underground springs so the soil does sort of act like the ocean as the clay gets wet and expands, then dries and retracts. Almost everyone in our area has trouble with their slabs in one form or another.


 Well, I'd sure stay away from a rigid floor covering,,, with out significantly structural re-engineering issues,


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

Well i personally think your fighting a losing battle and throwing good money after bad, but it's your call.


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