# carrier model 58rav095-12 furnace



## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

dirty sensor is the first spot to check.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Flame sensor, sits in front of the left burner, should look like this one, clean it with fine emory paper


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

cleaned the sensor. Now it will cycle to igintor on but not going any futher.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

cleaned the sensor and reinstalled. Furnace will cycle thru to ingniter on and shuts down.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Gonna meed a volt meter now...Got One? and do you know how to use it?


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

ok boss listen closely. theres a blinking led light on the control board. its going to blink 3 times fast and 1 slow which means code 31. on the back of your front panel its going to tell you thats its you pressure switch failed to reclose. now if this is happening then its one of 2 things you have a bad pressure switch or your control board is bad. I have the same problem with 1 to.


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

can you take a picture of the pressure switch for us? its located next to the inducer motor it should have a red hose going to it.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Yes I have one and know how to use it


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

guess he does not have a camera either :no:


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

do you have a manometer?


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

I'll defer to Hvackid since it is the courtesy we extend to new comers.
Welcome Hvackid.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

hvac kid said:


> do you have a manometer?


Hmmm this ought to be interesting....an HO with a manometer....


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

do you want to help hvaclover or just make fun of me wanting to fix my problem.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

If the pressure switch is the problem you will be able to measure 24volts to furnace chassis ground on the incoming terminal...

No I don't want to make fun of you.

I was trying to be polite to hvackid.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

I did check and had 24volts at the pressure switch.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

I did have 24 volts at the pressue switch.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Did one side remain powered and the other side measure no voltage to ground when the burner shut off?


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

No 24 volts transfered to the other post when the inductor came on.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Ok bare with the process...we might not use the same words so I am going to ask questions to clarify as we go along.


When the inducer comes you have no 24v to ground on one side of the switch? Yes or no

And the other terminal shows 24v? yes or no

I type slow so bare with me. I have not left my PC since you posted.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Yes there is 24 v at both post. Thank you for your help and understanding my frustration.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

You have 24 v to ground on each side? Is it a steady reading or is the meter searching up and down the scale? Yes or no.

Is the inducer running? Yes or no

How long do the burners stay lite for?


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

yes true. but on that model # they have alot of bugs in the control board that is most likely your problem but the only way to really be sure is to test everything else first. unless you have the $200-$300 to spare. and thanks for your politeness hvaclover.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

meter is steady-yes. 
the inducer motor is running. yes
Ignitor is glowing but the burner is not lighting.
Control panel was replace 6 days ago.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Just replaced the control board 6 days ago. had a repair man come out to test the control board then I replaced the board.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Do you have 24v at the valve during and/or after igniter warm up?
You should hear a "click" from valve and hear gas go into burners for a few seconds


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

so the hot surface is glowing but not lighting? right


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

hvaclover said:


> Do you have 24v at the valve during and/or after igniter warm up?
> You should hear a "click" from valve and hear gas go into burners for a few seconds


if you dont hear a click then ohm out the gas valve


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

yes the hot surface is glowing and the I hear the click from the valve. but not lighting.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

In your first you said you got burner on but shut off. 

Do the burners light for a short time and got out? Yes or no.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

After the igniter starts glowing in about 10-15 seconds you should get 24 volts AC on the 2 terminals of the gas valve. Do you, and do you smell any gas when it tries to start?


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

[email protected]#$!!!!

I'm working here Yuri


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

is your control panel blinking a code yet?


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

It did when we first started. the burner would light up and go out after a few seconds. But now the valve will click and the hot surface turns off. The inducer motor will recycle at that point.


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## hvac kid (Dec 6, 2010)

hvaclover said:


> [email protected]#$!!!!
> 
> I'm working here Yuri


wow really havclover if thats the case then have fun fixing the problem by your self see ya.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

no code on the control board.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

You mean the inducer stop and restarts?


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Yes when the hot surface is on and the valve clicks the inducer motor stops until the hot surface cools then restarts.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

There is a switch on top of the valve that has two wires 1- marked M1 the other marked c1. When the valve clicks there is 24v at the M1 post for just a moment. no power at C1


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Take those 2 wires off and check for continuity to ground from each terminal. The valve may be shorting and you are losing voltage to ground and dropping everything out.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Yuri is quicker than me...he'll take it from here.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Yuri- explain continuity to ground. Am I checking resistance from the post to ground?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Yep, or the valve body or ground wire where it enters the furnace. Should read OL open line and have no circuit to ground from those terminals or it is shorting. Strange problem and I may need Clover and the rest of the guys who can think outside the box on this one.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

I checked both the post to ground and found no short.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Where did you buy the board, E Bay? Try the whole process over with the 2 gas valve wires safely hanging in the air. The board should go thru its whole paces and then flash a flame failure code if working properly. code 34 and then 14


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

bought the board from local certified carrier parts dealer.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Reread my post for added info.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

I pulled both wires to the valve and ran the cycle. No code after three attempts to light. Just a solid red light.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Was it that retrofit board with extra wiring harnesses? Board has to got thru its routine and get to flame failure or it is bad or you wired something wrong or damaged a pin on those harnesses etc. Solid light means it has power not a call for heat, R you gettin 24 volts steady from W to C when callin for heat.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

yes I get 24v from W to C when the valve clicks. It did have extra wiring harness with the new board. but it has worked fine for 6 days.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Does it stay steady at 24 volts when all this happens? If not your tstat may be spiking/dropping out and aggravating the board. Remove all the wires after labelling and then jump R to W and see if it stays on. Answer the rest of my question too.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Are you talking about removing all the wires from the thermostat and jumping red to white?


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

At the board.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

It receives 24v at the valve from w-c just for a moment then the inducer recycles.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Sounds like you a need a new board and a Pro to deal with it. Maybe they gave you a bad or damaged bounced around in the truck board. Was it the retrofit board with extra harnesses/cables?


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

What fault code are you reading right now?


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

There is no fault code reading.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

the new board did have the wiring harness with it.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Take it back.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Gee all that work


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

I will take the board back. Thank you all.
Yuri and hvaclover you were a great help and I thank you for all your efforts. Is it ok to add you to my friend list incase I run into further problems.
If you have cabinet or granite counter top problems I'm your man.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

*Carrier furnace operates then quits*

My furnace will operate fine for a day or two then will go into a cycle where the furnace will ingnite only to lose flame when the fan comes on. I have had two service tech's charge me to do nothing. To operate at this point the thermostat has to have the fan switch on the on (not auto) posistion to work.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

What did the techs do and what did they put in their service report?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Same furnace, same problem. Belongs in the same thread. So I merged your new thread.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Checked system Checked ok. On the second visit. The first visit found no voltage to the ignitor when gas safety valve opens. Replaced control board.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

Maybe we will find out together Been there.


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## lwooly242 (Dec 19, 2010)

The Tech's checked all voltages, cleaned flame sensor, cheked the gas volumn with the manometer and set to 2.8


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

Should be set to 3.5 call him back.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Yep, your gas pressure is too low.


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