# Tapered/Butt joint for drywall replacement?



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

I never butt a tapered edge to an un-tapered one. I cut it off. IMO, the closer the the two edges are to the same height the easier it is to finish. 

The very slight hump you make as you finish will not be a problem if you feather it out far enough.

Believe it or not, it is the dips that show as an imperfection.


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## red92s (Nov 14, 2012)

Colbyt said:


> I never butt a tapered edge to an un-tapered one. I cut it off. IMO, the closer the the two edges are to the same height the easier it is to finish.
> 
> The very slight hump you make as you finish will not be a problem if you feather it out far enough.
> 
> Believe it or not, it is the dips that show as an imperfection.


Thanks. This is sort of what is suspected. Cutting of a "factory edge" runs counter to my natural instincts when dealing with sheet goods, but I suppose the way joints are handled with drywall it's not nearly as critical as it would be in a woodworking project.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Correct, the edges don't matter because that joint is completely covered by tape and joint compound. Imperfections in the drywall edge would never show.

Having said that, I usually don't bother cutting. Butt-to-taper works out just fine. Your compound just fills it in on the taper side and it works out. But if you want a warm fuzzy on the joint being symmetrical before you start mudding, then cutting is also fine, just a few minutes of extra work.


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