# still cold



## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

Anybody out there know if you can blow insulation into walls that already have paper-backed insulation in them? The walls I have on this old 50's ranch are only filled with this thin insulation that doesn't even fill the cavity. I've done a ton of other insulating ie. attic, crawlspace etc. but our bedrooms are still cold, even the outside walls are cold to the touch. Any imput would be greatly appreciated!


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## Mike Swearingen (Mar 15, 2005)

If the vapor-barrier backed insulation has a cavity between it and the outer wall, you can certainly blow more iinsulation into the cavity. Don't compact insulation, however, as that will totally defeat its purpose.
Good Luck!
Mike


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

That's what I was worried about. there is quite a bit of unfilled space but if I blow in some and compress the stuff thats there, it won't do me anygood right?


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

timber said:


> That's what I was worried about. there is quite a bit of unfilled space but if I blow in some and compress the stuff thats there, it won't do me anygood right?


Well, how thick is the current insulation?

I am assuming you have 2x4 walls?


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

yep 2x4. I just do't understand why they used such a thin small type of insulation. I guess maybe it would'nt matter if it got compressed, 'cause I don't think it's doing much to begin with. I'm going to say maybe an inch thick. I bet theres close to an inch on either side of it in the cavity.


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

How much wall SF are we talking about?


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

timber said:


> yep 2x4. I just do't understand why they used such a thin small type of insulation.


In 1975 oil was .49 per gallon.


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

There's about 200sft/room. I was 10 years old in '75 and my Dad drove a '71 Mustang Grande that had a Cleveland in it and I can still remember him #!-in about gas prices, he cussed a little to much ( he was a sailor after all)!


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

timber said:


> There's about 200sft/room.


200SF Total or 200SF a Room?


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

200sqft.per room


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

Ok, how are you going to be accessing the wall cavity?

Drill a hole in each stud bay to insulate it?

Are you going to do interior walls or exterior walls or both?


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

I don't know, if I do it on the outside I have to go through the clapboard siding and that old black compressed insulating board. Do I need to go in from both sides because of the existing insulation to try and get as much fill as possible? I'm not opposed to doing that. It's still better than pulling all the drywall. I just want to know if I"m going to get any better R-value. Or maybe I should look into spray foam instead of blown-in?


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

I think "blown in" would your easiest choice and cost effective.

If it was me, I would go to every exterior wall and cut holes for the tube in each bay along the perimeter of each exterior wall. If you current insulation is not doing any good, you can simply blow the insulation in and it will be ok.

How thin is the current insulation?


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

Are you talkin inside or outside or both? The current insulation is just a thin, yellow fibreglass insulation inbetween a black paper vapor barrier. It's about an inch thick. It's cheap #!%! My walls are freezing on the inside!


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

I am talking inside!

I know exactly what kind of insulation you are talking about.

You are right, it is cheap s**t!


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## justdon (Nov 16, 2005)

*In the 50's*

They had rock wool, with paper on each side and "Called" it insulation,,,sorta the forerunner of modern fiberglass. It was pretty iffy stuff,,,but better than nothing and fuel was cheap!! Attics about that time had 'zonolite' in them!!


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

When I posted this same question in a different topic, one of the guys said that if you blew insulation in on the inside, you might have to worry about condensation and then maybe mold. I believe he said moisture between the paper and the blown- in could happen.?


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

timber said:


> When I posted this same question in a different topic, one of the guys said that if you blew insulation in on the inside, you might have to worry about condensation and then maybe mold. I believe he said moisture between the paper and the blown- in could happen.?


Wayne, It is possible, but I highly doubt it.

If I was in your shoes, I would call a local insulation company and see what recommendations they have.


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks for the imput on this, I'll take my chances with the moisture. Who the hecks Wayne?


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## justdon (Nov 16, 2005)

*I guess*

I would think it imperative to know' which side of the cavity it is fasted on??? If its the wall side,blow it from outside,,if it was applied over studs then outside sheeting applied then inside is only practical way,,,AND if its stapled the the center of the stud,,,blow from outside and dont worry about ruining anything,,not much there to ruin!! The NEW stuff will do the bulk of the work!!


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

That's the kicker! This stuff is just freestanding inside the wall cavity! It's not tacked to anything! I even checked this theory in several different places in the home. Who built this friggen home!? (No, actually it is a pretty nice home, I'm just gettin frustrated)!


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## Cole (Mar 12, 2005)

timber said:


> That's the kicker! This stuff is just freestanding inside the wall cavity! It's not tacked to anything! I even checked this theory in several different places in the home. Who built this friggen home!? (No, actually it is a pretty nice home, I'm just gettin frustrated)!


Ohl, I was under the assumption it was stapled to the inside studs.


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

Considering the year your home was built, and it's lack of insulation, you might consider delaminating all of the interior perimeter walls, reinsulating, and rewiring. Many HOs who purchase 60-70's vintage homes, when modern conveniences such as adequate insulation, good windows, and adequate wiring were in their infancy) they're known to gut them. 

Blown in insulation can be done correctly, but I'd never trust a company to employ someone who would. AFAIC, these types of home improvement outfits are really scams, like basement waterproofers.


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

I did consider removing the drywall on the outside walls of these two bedrooms, but the walls are in excellent shape, in fact, you would'nt believe how thick this drywall is. They put 2- 3/8'' sheets together and installed it. This is the original stuff, was that common back then? Anyway, this is my whole reason for just wanting to add a little blown-in.


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## jaw22 (Dec 23, 2007)

Old thread i know but timber i just wanted to say that i am in the same boat as you. Same 1-1.5 batts in my walls stapled and pushed to the back. I just finished drlling holes in each stud bay of every room in my home; a 1950s cape. I even drilled in the first floor ceiling to reach all around the entire rim joist. In many areas i found wall bays with just nothing at all and even open to either the attic or garage attic space! Kneewalls with nothing behind them etc....
I have a large eyebrow roof going the length of the 2nd floor, i cut access from the garage below and found 1x6 sheathing with gaps btwn them and actual holes. That is basically the back of the wall for half the 2nd floor. The sheathing directly behind my bathroom had a 5x5 inch hole with a thin batt covering the hole. I pushed it to find i can reach in with my whole arm around and under my shower stall. So im air sealing where i can with foamboard foam and caulk, but i am going to blow in insulation to my walls. If you do it dont use a nozzle but get a long 10 ft vinyl fill tube . That way you will get better coverage as you can snake it past the old stuff there. In many areas I got by with just drilling one hole per bay depending on the framing.


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

Thanks jaw22, that idea about the tubing sounds like it would help considerably. Are you talking a 1'' dia. tube?


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## jaw22 (Dec 23, 2007)

I have a 1" dia and a 1-1/4 inside dia tube both 11 feet long. I got the 2 sizes cause i was worried i wouldnt be able to snake in the larger one depending on the space in the bays. But they both work as far as me probing into each hole goes. The reason I got them so long (11 feet) is because I am also going to be blowing in my garage ceiling that has a room above. Theres only 2 inch batts in 2x12 joist spaces with it resting on the ceiling not up against the subfloor. Here is where I got them http://www.jrproductsinc.com/hose.html
Also here are some links on how to do wall insulation right. Most of it talks about doing it from the outside but its still some good info.
http://www.karg.com/PDF files/Insulaton density/Sidewall Tips Pfeiffer Wilson Fitzgerald 2003.pdf
http://www.karg.com/PDF files/Insulaton density/Dense packing Allwein and Biddle.pdf


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## timber (Nov 30, 2007)

:thumbsup: Thanks a lot!


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