# Need better canoe hoist syatem



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Instead of the rope going through the pulley and using a tarp, move the anchor point to the side instead of inline. Wrap the rope under the canoe instead through the pulley. Then you will be able to hoist the canoe tight to the ceiling. The rope should slip/slide just fine under the canoe. Your losing all your height with tarp slack and the rope bridle.

Or attach the pulleys directly onto the canoe at the bow and stern with removable chain link or clevis.


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## justabovemaine (Oct 26, 2011)

Final hoist system; Not perfect but it works well. Thanks for suggestion of putting anchors off to side vs. inline. I still want to improve a little bit...


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

i think you still didnt get what he meant use just the one piece of rope that ur pulling them up with wrap that around the boat. eliminate the girth strap and extra pulley


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## justabovemaine (Oct 26, 2011)

*reply*

no, i understood. i just didn't want the rope rubbing around the boat as it was being raised or lowered. the point at which the extra pulley sits vertically is the same as the bow and stern points due to arch in boat... it would be nice to have the ropes feed through a guide under the boat so the ropes don't rub...


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Yes. That extra pulley in the center is causing you to loose a bunch of height. Take the pulley out and loop the rope under the canoe.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Understanding that this is not an engineered system (no criticism intended), perhaps it is not an issue, but by suspending with diagonal lines, as opposed to vertical, you are diminishing the strength of your rope dramatically. (If you wish to verify, search "slings" or "slinging".) Also, I would be concerned with the lateral strain on the gunwales. I would consider using saddles, made of a few pieces of plywood laminated together or short slings, and proceed as JoeD suggested.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Why not run the rope under the canoe? You simply need to thread the two ropes through a couple of 3 or 4 foot lengths of garden hose to keep it from scratching the canoe. And additionally, if you're especially anal, the garden hoses could be covered (sheathed) with some of that A/C insulation tubing.


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Alternatively you could put a pulley at each attachment point you currently have on the ceiling and run the rope under the canoe at bow and stern. You would then be pulling on four ropes to raise the canoe. The rope will stay stationary against the hull of the canoe and wont rub against it and you can pull it tight to the ceiling.

The way you have it now...if the rope doesn't fail then the fixtures will pull out of the ceiling eventually unless they are inline with the force on them. They are not designed to sustain that sort of lateral load.


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## justabovemaine (Oct 26, 2011)

The canoe only weighs 65 pounds and the eyehole screws are rated 200-300#, set into wood. But it's a good point about them pulling wrong direction. I am still using the tarp because the manufacturer of the canoe suggests storing it bottom-down, resting upon something to avoid deformation.


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## Ironlight (Apr 13, 2011)

Well another option is to create a plywood platform that you can hoist the canoe on to prevent point loading on the hull. All a matter of how elaborate you want to get in order to eek out another inch or two of headroom.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Ironlight said:


> Well another option is to create a plywood platform that you can hoist the canoe on to prevent point loading on the hull. All a matter of how elaborate you want to get in order to eek out another inch or two of headroom.


I like that idea. Plywood platform or even a wood cradle. Here is an image of the basic idea. Modify it to fit you canoe. You could even sling the tarp between it instead of the solid runners.


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