# Gas line to generator



## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I do not know what code says but I would think that would work. A BBQ quick connect should work if it can supply enough gas for the genny.

Here is an example.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

As a temp fixture, sure. Read the manual, they are very specific about inlet pressures. (some genys won't run on 7"WC for NG, no matter the sizing.) 

Joed shows how to nicely terminate the line for a portable device. Remember this is NG, you will want to protect the line, and at 15ft it'll be quite vulnerable. It'll also have a significant pressure drop. 

What's the model number of the geny? Is it NG native or converted? Any other details? Anything else on this gas line if it doesn't go straight back to the meter? If so, what's the input ratings of each? Piping sizing and layout? 

I've done this before. None with quick connect though. 

Cheers!


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

Thank you joed and supers05. Appreciate the info. Joed, that is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. My idea is to keep it all rolled up inside the generator dog house and pull it out/plug it in, when/if if we need to fire up our genny for a power outage. Just seems a lot easier then laying an underground gas pipe.

Supers05, genny is a Predator 8750. It's not currently NG but I will add a converter. The only thing on the line is our gas heater for the house. Input rating, don't know. Looks like a 1 inch flex pipe comes in from the meter, hooks to a 1 inch black pipe tee and is capped off. (Heater hooks up to the tee with 1/2 inch flex pipe.) I would continue the pipe in a straight line out the other side of the house and add a quick connect there. Should all be quick and easy. (I hope) Hadn't thought about the pressure drop and good point about protecting the line while it's laying on the ground. It would lie up next to a cyclone fence but there's a gate so... Maybe a plywood walking ramp of sorts over it? Hmmm, this is getting harder.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I'm guessing you will have a hard time finding an approved hose over 6 ft long and you probably will not like the price..... IMO, bury a gas approved poly line 12" deep with a short flex at the generator- quick, easy and code compliant


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Here's one example of we've done. Took awhile to get everything sorted out. (between the concrete, shipping, electricians, us, manufacturer for startup, etc, lol) Yours will be easier[emoji6] [emoji106] 

Get the gas piping wrong, and you can pull a vacuum on the gas system. (I just recently witnessed it with a faulty reg) It will cause your heater to stop working just when you need it. 

Cheers!


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

TheEplumber said:


> I'm guessing you will have a hard time finding an approved hose over 6 ft long and you probably will not like the price..... IMO, bury a gas approved poly line 12" deep with a short flex at the generator- quick, easy and code compliant


Which is exactly why I asked the question. Anyhoo, a poly line 12" deep sounds a lot more doable then what I was thinking. Not sure on the regs here (Spokane, Wa.) but figured it would be more like 2 feet. (not even gonna try and dig that. :vs_no_no_no: ) Then there's the legal issues. (and home insurance) Eh, I'm not gonna tell them. Buuutt, what do you suppose it would cost to have a contractor do it? $750? $1000? Yikes! (feel free to chime in here supers05) I dunno, we had a power outage here a year or so ago for 8-10 days so I really want NG to our genny. I mean, how hard can it be???


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## BayouRunner (Feb 5, 2016)

We have a lot of issues here with long power outages during hurricane season. I've installed a few automatic generators and I think your going to be surprised at the gas consumption. It's been at least 10 years or so and I don't claim to an expert so keep that in mind. But I think your going to need a minimum of 3/4 inch pipe, I think your consumption is going to be roughly in the 130 cfh range. I don't know all of your requirements for your engine/setup but I suspect it to be close, you'll have to figure that out or have a plumber figure out what size you need so that you don't have any issues. The last section for actual hookup can be reduced to 1/2 inch. Find out what your actual consumption will be and go from there. I think burial is going to be your best option as well


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

BayouRunner said:


> We have a lot of issues here with long power outages during hurricane season. I've installed a few automatic generators and I think your going to be surprised at the gas consumption. It's been at least 10 years or so and I don't claim to an expert so keep that in mind. But I think your going to need a minimum of 3/4 inch pipe, I think your consumption is going to be roughly in the 130 cfh range. I don't know all of your requirements for your engine/setup but I suspect it to be close, you'll have to figure that out or have a plumber figure out what size you need so that you don't have any issues. The last section for actual hookup can be reduced to 1/2 inch. Find out what your actual consumption will be and go from there. I think burial is going to be your best option as well


Hey, thanks for the info. I was hoping to get a reply kinda like yours. Yeah, I was kinda planning on running 1" pipe all the way out to the generator to prevent any lean problems. Might be overkill but way better then not big enough. I agree, burial is the way to go. Thanks! :smile:


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

It's at least 18" for our codes IIRC. So you're digging basically 2' down, and I'm not shoveling that for more that a few feet in length, lol. 

The plastic pipe is cheap/ft but they don't sell small pieces. The risers to come out of the ground are also not cheap. The pair will be half the price of the whole thing. The labour will likely kill your project. 

Copper is acceptable in some locations and jurisdictions. I'll double check our codes for you. (it'll be different for you, but it should at least point you in the right direction) 

Look up how much gas (in cu.ft/hr) you'll be using for your geny. Distance of the run will help. 


Cheers!


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

supers05 said:


> It's at least 18" for our codes IIRC. So you're digging basically 2' down, and I'm not shoveling that for more that a few feet in length, lol.
> 
> Thanks :smile:
> 
> ...


Looks to be about 118 cu.ft/hr Probably 20 ft. run


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

Lemmie try that again. Looks to be about 118 cu.ft/hr. 15/20 foot run outside the house and another 20 inside the house to hook up so 40' total.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

brads said:


> Lemmie try that again. Looks to be about 118 cu.ft/hr. 15/20 foot run outside the house and another 20 inside the house to hook up so 40' total.


And the furnace input? It'll be on the label inside the furnace. Usually in the burner section. Take a picture if you're unsure. 

Cheers!


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Actually, it won't matter with 1" pipe. It can handle 374cu.ft/hr or roughly 374,000 btu/hr. That's at 7-14" WC. Up to 1" drop. 

So, unless you have a airplane hanger for a house, I think you'll be fine. 

Cheers!


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

Yeah but ummm, hey joed, is that a Lancaster I see in your avatar? Awesome old planes those. :thumbup:


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## brads (Oct 15, 2016)

supers05 said:


> Actually, it won't matter with 1" pipe. It can handle 374cu.ft/hr or roughly 374,000 btu/hr. That's at 7-14" WC. Up to 1" drop.
> 
> So, unless you have a airplane hanger for a house, I think you'll be fine.
> 
> Cheers!


Good news, thanks! :smile:


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Looked over our code. Apparently it's 15" to the top of the pipe. (I've always used 18" since we usually bury 2" pipe.)

We can use type K copper for underground, or either type g or L if it's "externally coated with extruded 

polyethylene or PVC resin at the time of manufacture." = Expensive and rare. 

Either way, you'll need a tracer wire to run the length of the underground portion. (it's not actually wired to anything just left tied to the pipe above ground at both ends.)

It's highly recommended that you lay down some yellow tape or string above the pipe. 6" or more will do. It helps if you forget where the line is, and the tracer is long corroded. Can be any locally available cheap stuff. Just something recognizable. 

You'll need a shutoff valve before it enters the ground, and before the geny.

At 8kW, it won't power much, so I'm guessing you're just running extension cords. If you end up upgrading to something larger, post in the electrical side if you put a transfer switch in. 

Cheers!


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