# Home Theater Dedicated Circuit



## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

I am planning to run a dedicated circuit for my home theater system. Currently I have a 46" wall mounted LCD, and plan to soon add a Home Theater PC, which will also be my main computer. I also would like the potential to add a 5.1 or 7.1 sound system w/ amp, receiver, etc. in the future. In terms of a dedicated circuit, would this be recommended for said components, and if so, should I go with 20 amp, or 15 amp? I figured 20 amp would be best, and not worry about it, but this raises some issues to me. Firstly, most surge protectors are rated for 15 amps. If I ran 20 amp wire and breaker, then just plugged everything into a 15 amp surge protector, wouldn't the 20 amp circuit be pointless? I assume surge protectors have a built in fuse or breaker correct? Also, am I correct that I need a 20 amp outlet, if it is a dedicated outlet? How I understand it is that you can put multiple 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit, but if it is a circuit dedicated to one outlet, the outlet must be 20 amps. Also, since my TV is wall mounted I plan to have a recessed outlet in the wall, then run 12 gauge wire to an inlet down near the dedicated outlet. This way I can plug my TV into the surge protector via a short extension cord from power inlet to surge protector, and basically have a built into the wall extension cord. This allows me to have all my other home theater equipment near the ground, and my TV up high w/ no wires showing, and have it all going to one surge protector. (I also plan to run coax, and HDMI etc. in the wall to built in outlets behind the TV) With this being said, would the TV outlet/inlet need to be 20 Amps as well, since it is going onto the 20 amp dedicated circuit w/ the HTPC and audio equipment? I am not sure if I can use a 15 amp outlet/inlet, because the TV will not be pulling the 20 amps. Is this a code violation, because someone could come along and plug in a power strip, and overload the 15 amp outlet while not tripping the 20 amp breaker? Thanks, Richard


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I never run 15a outlet runs
I use 12g wire & 20a breakers
Most surges are 15a, you can always plug 2 in
15a duplex receptacle is OK, you could not use a single 15a receptacle on a 20a run:









15a are rated for 20a pass thru, each outlet can handle 15am whcih is why you need a duplex

Your in-wall run sounds fine, many people simply want to run the wire thru the wall cavity :thumbsup:

You can trip a 15a surge all day long & it will be fine - might wear it out
You do not need a a 20a surge on a 20a circuit
I think the recessed outlet/inlet should be 20a rated
If its a single it has to be a 20a to be on a 20a circuit
But sort of a grey area as yours will not be wired into the electric system
But I would go with the 20a rated...and use a recessed duplex behind the TV


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

If it was me, I'd run at least two circuits and put each one to numerous outlets, because 5 years from now you're going to "need" to buy new electronics that don't exist today, and you're going to want them on different walls. 

I don't think there's any real advantage to having a wire going to a single outlet in this application. Any noise your other appliances make on the line is going to propogate through the breaker box anyway.

For the TV one option that elimintes all your questions and achieves what you want is to build a recess behind the TV with an outlet and put a surge supressor on it. In all my life I've never heard of a TV set being damaged by a surge that came in through the power lines. Ditto for computers. Have seen and owned many that were fried through antenna and telephone lines though. Then again, surge protectors are cheap... YMMV.


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## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

My concern wasn't so much for noise as it was for the sound system amplifier sucking up alot of power. How many amps (amperes) does a typical amplifier pull? Also, do surge protectors have built in circuit breakers that would trip at say 15 amps? In regard to power surges, it is possible to put a suppressor/protector at the cable/phone input to the house? I am also planning to put a distribution panel for my home network/cable and run this to multiple rooms. Is there anything that can go here to protect from surges on the cable/phone on all downstream connections? Thanks, Richard


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Large plasma TV's can pull over 500w by themselves
Sound systems can vary widely...100w or less up to 1000w (rated) or more
I'm not sure how much power they take
One I saw was rated at 1200w, but uses 290w (?)...so that doesn't sound too bad
But then some higher rated units say power draw is 120w

http://reviews.cnet.com/home-theater-systems/

They do make surge protectors that will cover cable & phone


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## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

I have seen many surge protectors that protect coax and phone lines, but is there an easy solution to protect the incoming line, and have that surge protection flow to all the rest of my coax and phone connections in the house? Richard


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## Brik (Jan 16, 2007)

I don't like the idea of running extension cords inside walls. Thats me. I would rather put in an outlet up high and one down low, even if on same circuit. Some areas require ALL new wiring to be 12g wire. Might as well put it in, it wont cost too much more now. You can put in those boxes that let you flush mount your TV without the cord getting in the way.

http://www.cinemabuilder.com/products/electrical/recessed-wall-plate-w-port.asp

As for surge protectors - read the fine print, the guarantees dont apply unless every connected wire has protection (network, a/v, phone) at every possible point. The warranties are a scam. oh and they exclude lightning and certain other surges too. 

For really high end gear some people want power conditioners. These will even out the powers ups and downs. They are expensive and I double what will be needed for your setup.


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

My 31" TV, surround sound system and the works takes about 100 watts to run, according to my kill-a-watt meter. I think it's a "250 watt" amp.

If you've ever been to a bar to watch a band play where the music was way, way too loud, they probably had the PA, mixing board, and who knows what else all on the same circuit. Hardly anything electronics draws as much current as what it's rated at.



After a lightning strike took out the phone system at work we had a lightening arrestor installed. It's the one on the right hand side of this page:

http://www.portasystems.com/protection/Packs/packsindex.htm

It works.


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## jerryh3 (Dec 10, 2007)

My TV is hooked to an UPS/Power Conditioner with this:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2
You should be alright with everything on a single 20A circuit unless you a running a large amplifier/sub.


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## mgarfield (Jan 27, 2008)

You need to get some real high end preamp/amp combos and subs to worry about anything more than a 20a service. Run a 20a service to where ever your gear is going to be, do a 2 gang box with 2 15a duplex receps. This will give you 4 plugs, get a good surge protector for the stereo gear, Rotel makes a nice one for about $200 bucks (RLC-900) and it fits in the rack with the rest of the gear!! Get a "standard" PC surge protector for the PC, add a UPS for the PC if you wanna go all out. Run the TV off the same service, you can get surge protected outlets for this purpose. 

http://www.smarthome.com/865130/Leviton-Duplex-Surge-Suppression-Receptacle-5380-I/p.aspx

As far as the coax and phone, dont bother with the surge protectors that "protect" coax and phone, your wasting your time, and most of them will not pass 2way which is a big issue if your using a cable box. The better alternative is to make sure the cable and phone services are properly grounded. The cable should be grounded with a ground block or at the first split, 12g solid copper, bonded to the power service ground, and no longer than the shortest cable run AND less then 15 ft is ideal. Same for the phone, only the phone should be grounded at the NID/Demarc, separate 12g wire and bonded to the power ground with its own connection. 

Mike


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

If it's a hard area to wire run a 12-3
Then you can add a circuit (MWBC) if needed in the future
I have access underneath thru the basement, & thru the garage in my other room


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## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

I like the 2 gang box idea w/ 4 plugs. I think I will put these four outlets on a 20 amp circuit. I had been looking at the monoprice "in wall power cord": http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 Would an inspector have a problem w/ this on the 20 amp circuit as there would be the 4 other 15 amp plugs on there as well? I know it is kind of a gray area as it is not actually hard wired to the circuit, but if it was would this be a code violation because it is a single receptacle on a 20 amp circuit that has 4 other outlets already on it?


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Monoprice "in line" just preceding -- The link did not work, page could not be found.

Nothing wrong with putting receptacles in convenient locations for the TV etc. and wiring themm to a male receptacle (or inlet) possibly in thee next room where a UPS or surge protectir can be put.

Howcome the forum types back what I tupe a t just one character perseoncdd? so i cannot see what I ma typing?

If you have a 20 amp circuit ending in an inlet fed by a 15 amp surge protector, some day you or someone else may put in a 20 amp surge protection so the 12 gauge wire is not wasted.

An "extension coud" per se may not be put inside a wall.


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

I still vote for more outlets. I just got done wiring my livingroom, carefully thinking through were everything was going to go. Guess what?


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## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

For some reason when I post, it removes the white space from the posts. Is there something simple I'm missing that will let me enter newlines other than simply pressing enter? I use enter and it works in the text box, but the post removes this. The link is the same link that was shown three posts above it. I know I can't put an actual extension cord in the wall, but I am replicating that by running 12-2 NM from an outlet behind the TV to a male inlet down by the rest of my outlets on the dedicated circuit. This in effect creates an extension cord in the wall, but it is to code, as I will use 12 gauge NM. The four outlets are meant for use only with home theater/electronics. I will be rewiring most of my house over the next year replacing all the knob and tube and increasing service to 200 amps, and will have a separate 20 amp circuit for the rest of the living room outlets to code...outlet at least every 12 feet, etc. I feel it is safe to say that this is really the only place in the room where a TV "works" as it will be hung above the fire place. The other walls just wouldn't make sense. I just wasn't sure if the single (not duplex) recessed receptacle can be one of several 15 amp outlets on a 20 amp circuit. Thanks for all the help, Richard


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## Phillysun (Jun 19, 2008)

I would put in a separate subpanel for the home theater installation so you have shorter runs to the outlets and isolation from the main panel. A single surge suppressor for your main panel is cheaper and a lot more effective than separate surge suppressors, most of which use MOV's and are worse than worthless as they will shunt current to the ground line and fry equipment. I would want wall outlets separated by utility and and the home theater outlets and two circuits for the lighting. The home theater circuit should have an isolated ground - very important - and the electrician will put in a special outlet with an orange receptacle area. With two lighting circuits you can use wall sconces as well as recessed lighting and dim each separately and control ambient and the back lighting for the TV screen. 

When you have TV sets that are really more computer than CRT it pays to have the electronics protected from surges but more important, protected from sags which are drops in current and much more prevalent throughout the country. Plasma screens are more sensitive and during a recent visit to a TV appliance center for the area I noticed that all 7 sets they were repairing were plasma sets.

For sags and surges for the electronics a line conditioner is the best solution as it will maintain a voltage level with isolated transformer coils which provide far and away the best surge protection you can find for residential use. Oneac is one brand that I have used over the years. Beware of the "power conditioners" sold by the audio shops. Everyone I have seen at the CEDIA shows use MOV's which are cheap solid state devices that can easily blow and then do more harm than good in protecting your equipment. MOV's are OK for a $10 surge supressor for your microwave oven but not for anything else you value.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Run a seperate sub for a home theatre ?
Maybe for a large home theatre or one that's a distance away from the main
But to say to run a sub when he wants 1 circuit is going overboard
You want a sub in a location where you can easily add circuits if needed
Not in a finished wall in a finished space


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## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

I don't plan to build in a second subpanel. I want to make it good, but within reason. My wife and I bought this, our first house, as an investment, so I want to get the home theater setup in a way that when we sell it will add value, and be simple for someone to use, but meet my desires as well for the next 5 or so years while we fix it up. 

I spoke with someone at the local permit office and they were hesitant about the recessed plug behind the TV not being physically wired to any circuit, but they said as long as I have other duplex 15 amp receptacles, a single 15 amp receptacle on the same 20 amp circuit would be allowed. I think once I show the inspector what I am planning, he will be OK with it. I don't see any reason this would be a code violation, because one, as it would be, it has nothing connected to it, it is just wires and receptacles, no electric going to it, and two when I do connect it, it will be on a 20 amp circuit w/ other 15 amp duplex receptacles, thus like if it were physically wired, it would not violate any code.

Edit: It looks like changing my editor settings to standard in the User CP fixed my issue of not being able to include newlines in my posts. For anyone interested, the broken link from the previous post for what I'm planning to use is :
http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10425&cs_id=1042505&p_id=4652&seq=1&format=2
I hate paying $50 for a recessed outlet and cable wall plate that I could get for around $10, but I can't find a power inlet solution anywhere that looks like it belongs in the house. If anyone knows where I can get a power inlet like this that looks like an indoor plug, not one of the metal RV inlets, let me know.

Thanks,

Richard


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## HouseHelper (Mar 20, 2007)

How about Arlington's version?
http://www.lashen.com/vendors/arlington/details.asp?ProdID=TVBR505


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## rjschwar (Nov 13, 2009)

I actually have an outlet already for behind the TV. What I can't find is a male inlet to go down near the floor.

Richard


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## pyper (Jul 1, 2009)

Sags (brownouts) can be problems for some electronics. But some power supplies do their own conditioning. You can tell by looking at the voltage rating on the power supply. All my Dell laptops, for instance, are good down to 100 volts AC.


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