# Replacing Rotten Band and Sill



## organick (Sep 4, 2009)

I have a 1930's single story gable roof farm house. The area I need to address is in a crawl space with about 18 inches of room (i do have room and ability to dig it out a little bit if i need for jacking.) There is about a 5 ft section of sill rotten and the band (double) is also rotten in that area and it needs to be replaced.

the damage has been caused by grading issues that have been fixed. So here is my general plan of attack and I would like any input or advise. I can access the area from outside by removing 2 maybe 3 courses of siding to expose the band. I hoping to be able to get a jack inside and run a 4x4 under the joists in the affected area and jack it just enough to remove pressure from the sill. 

Then cut out the band and sill in that area. Replace the sill with PT and Sister in full size joists on the 3or 4 affected joist (little end rot). They are 2x8 and 24 o.c.. Then replace the band. New sheathing and replace the siding.

Does this sound like a complete plan of attack for the project?

Now I am assuming that both band boards are rotten at this point because I cant see it all yet. Assuming they are I want to lap the outer band to provide more strength as opposed to cutting them both and replacing just the bad area (necessary right). On the one end it will be replaced all the way into the corner. Are there extra considerations doing that? and if not how far past the rotted area should I cut the outer band and replace? is spanning it over 2 joists enough or does it need to be like 4 ft?


If i am missing or not remembering something please let me know.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Plan sound O.K.---More detail on your jacking is needed---Are you planning to jack all three or four joists at once? You must secure the sagged joists to your temporary girder so they don't roll as you jack.--Mike---


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## organick (Sep 4, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> Plan sound O.K.---More detail on your jacking is needed---Are you planning to jack all three or four joists at once? You must secure the sagged joists to your temporary girder so they don't roll as you jack.--Mike---


I was planning on screwing the 4x4 to the joists. Don't I have to be able to jack all of them to get the new sill in?

Also am I ok cutting out the whole section of band at once (5-6 ft ) or should I do 2 sections?

I appreciate it.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Once you get it jacked up-- you should be able to remove the band all at once. I'd need to see a picture to give you exact advice,but you seem to have this job well thought out.

I hate working in a crawl space---every thing takes so much more time.---Mike----

Tpolk and KwickfishRon have jacked a house or two----I hope the check in here.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I think his plan is right on. :thumbsup:

Your not really jacking the house up as much as stabilizing (+ 1/8”) what you have. Just tight jack studs usually does the trick.

The nice thing about 2x8’s (at least in my area) is what used to be 7 ½” is now usually only 7 1/8”- 7 ¼” making this kind of repair easier than you think.


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## organick (Sep 4, 2009)

Mike what pic would you need to get a better idea? I can sort of get one from inside but being so low its hard to get a spread shot of it. I can take some though

Kwik....would you suggest using jack studs 1/8 too long to jack under the joists as opposed to a jack?


Just want to check on the lapping of the outer band. Is 2 joists enough or should I go more?

Thank you both.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

A shot from outside would help---far enough back to see the roof line---

I like jack walls myself--but working in a crawl space? You may not have room to swing a sledge hammer.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I’d use a jack in a crawl space but you can do it without.

Two joist should be fine. I don’t understand why there’s a dbl. band in the first place if the joist are butting into it sitting on the plate.

Pictures always help, get it tore apart and post a pic. From the outside


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

You can jack it up from the outside as well. Bolt a 2x 6 or 2x8 to the studs on the exterior of the house. I use 2, 1/2" x 5 lag bolts per stud. Extend the bolted board at least 2 studs in either direction past the damage. Slowly jack up the house and prop up 4x4's under the area. You might need to run the length of the area a few times to get the pressure off the foundation. Each time driving the 4x4's up under the ledger.
It uses more lumber and works on Ranches. Never did an exterior jacking on a colonial.
Ron


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## organick (Sep 4, 2009)

Here is a pic, its basically that left corner on the side.


Ron, I thought about doing it from the outside but i dont want to remove all the siding and the joists need to be lifted a little anyway.

Mike, yeah i dont know how much i'd be able to get behind a hand sledge in there. Guess I could try it though.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

You lift the joists by putting 2x4's under each one. Once the house is up, it doesn't take too much effort to pop them in place. They get screwed in place before you start. Once the house is jacked, you hammer the bottoms in place over another 2 x 4.
It's much easier then jacking the house up in a crawlspace. 
Ron


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## organick (Sep 4, 2009)

yeah but that still requires removing all the siding in that area. I would prefer not to do that because its aluminum and I have be really careful so I can reuse it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I don’t see how you can do this without removing siding. 

The joist are running perpendicular to the wall and sitting on the plate, correct?


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

organick said:


> yeah but that still requires removing all the siding in that area. I would prefer not to do that because its aluminum and I have be really careful so I can reuse it.


Never worked with that material in any job, so can't really offer any experience. I'd think you'd have to remove the whole wall, top to bottom so as not to bend the material.
Ron


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## organick (Sep 4, 2009)

I do have to remove siding but it can be removed from the bottom up also. I only need to remove 2 courses, that will expose the band and bottom plate of the wall as well. I had to reomove section on another area so I know i can be done and goes back on fine.

Yes the joists run perpendicular and sit on the sill on that wall.


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