# Best Cut-In Brush For Latex Paint



## djonesax (Apr 14, 2008)

I was watching some painting youtube videos and I was noticing that the painter could cut in a 2 or more foot line with one load. I was cutting in a mantel with a Zibra brush and i could maybe get 8-10 inches before the paint stopped flowing.

What brushes are you all using?

Thanks,

David


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

I like Purdy... but I'm sure gonna watch this thread and see what others have found...


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## kimberland30 (Jan 22, 2008)

I use a Purdy too..but I don't think I can cut in 2' at a time. I think it has more to do with the amount of paint you put on the brush. Cutting in is no fun but it's a learned skill.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Wooster, Purdy, Corona, those are the best brushes. They have to have plenty of bristles and be firm enough to give you a "line" to cut in. Buying cheap junk brushes won't get the job done.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

lately i've been using these bennett brushes. never really heard of them but my ben moore supplier carries them and decided to give them a try cause they were only like $12.99 and i really like them. i've a 3" angled sash brush and i can get just about 2' cutting in. http://www.renodepot.com/en/paintbrush-75-mm-87105362


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

I usually use a 3 inch angular corona. 

To me the real trick to cutting long lines is to lay down a 'base line' first. I will lay down a quick line of paint about 1-2 inches from the ceiling, or whatever I'm cutting. Then re-load the brush and cut the actual line over the top of the base line.
The base line paint already being there, helps keep from drying out the brush so fast.

Done this way, its possible to get 3 or even 4 foot lines. It seems to me the longer the line you cut, the straiter it is (can be).


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

yup i called it a "wet line" instead of a base line. keeping it wet makes things go smoother just like alot of other things in life lol


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

I use a 2 inch purdy tapered end semi stiff XL. The right brush makes all the difference on how much you hate cutting in. :laughing: Also buy one of the Handipaintpail made in USA. It has an edge to draw off excess paint, a magnet to stick the ferrule to, and a nice wide adjustable rubber strap. This and the right brush Really makes cutting in almost enjoyable..............Almost.

A+ on the base line. I do that too.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

i got a few of those paint pails and i rarely to almost never use them for cutting in. pro painters have been using a paint can for years and years and nothing can beat them. dent them and twist them to make them more comfortable to hold and you'll never get sucked into buying extra paint stuff that you don't really need again.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

princelake said:


> i got a few of those paint pails and i rarely to almost never use them for cutting in. pro painters have been using a paint can for years and years and nothing can beat them. dent them and twist them to make them more comfortable to hold


 

..... Cut the rim out if you want. 

I've got a couple of those too,they end up getting used to hold old thinner, or to wash brushes in. Some of them do have cool features, just what you get used to I guess. I usually just poor most of a gallon in the roller bucket/tray and cut out of the original gallon can. 
Although I do buy two gallon buckets to mini roll out of. You can roll out of a gallon, just not a lot of extra room.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Wife got me one of those Handi pails and got to admit after getting used to it I kinda like it.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> Wife got me one of those Handi pails and got to admit after getting used to it I kinda like it.


Yea.... Mine holds 3 cans of beer....


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Purdy and Wooster have been the brushes I have used most through the years. 2.5 inch angled sash models are my most fave. 3" will hold more paint if that is an issue but the brush is heavier and a little harder on my wrists over time. I have been known to use a 4" brush for cutting in less critical situations. Again, a good one though. And it almost delivers too much paint and is not as easy to control.

If a larger job, latex products can build up in the brush anatomy and I find it worthwhile to rinse it out when this happens. Speed things up overall.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

sdsester said:


> Purdy and Wooster have been the brushes I have used most through the years. 2.5 inch angled sash models are my most fave. 3" will hold more paint if that is an issue but the brush is heavier and a little harder on my wrists over time. I have been known to use a 4" brush for cutting in less critical situations. Again, a good one though. And it almost delivers too much paint and is not as easy to control.
> 
> If a larger job, latex products can build up in the brush anatomy and I find it worthwhile to rinse it out when this happens. Speed things up overall.


Depending on the size of the trim I like a 2 or 2 1/2" angle. And I usually clean my brush a couple times a day.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Even with a cheapy brush you should be able to cut more that 8-10 inches with one dip. You're problem is more likely your technique.
Buy a Wooster or Purdy, or another brush you would get at a real paint store. Get a pro brush. I think even the Purdys at HD are seconds. Anyway, if you want pro results get a pro tool.

Not all good brushes are good cut brushes. A good trim brush doesn't make a good cut brush, and vice versa. You can sometimes find ones that are good for both, like the Wooster Ultra-Pro Firm Philly, beautiful brush. It mops on for cutting in, cuts crisp lines, and really moves on trim. I couldn't tell what makes a good cut brush, but could show you if I had a few in hand. They generally have a thicker ferrule and are a little firmer. Use a 2-3 inch width depending on the size of the room and the amount of detail brush work required. You don't want a 2.5 or 3 inch if you're cutting a kitchen with a lot of cabinet cutting, but you do if you're cutting in a two story foyer.

Use a clean, or dry, paint can as your cut pot, and fill it with enough, or more, paint that will allow you to dip the brush to the bristle halfway point, every time. As you go low, tilt the can. You always want half a brushful unless you only need a bit to finish a section. More is not better, anything over the halfway point will end up on the handle or the floor.

Keep your brush full, never brush all the paint out of the brush. It should slide on the surface. If it starts dragging it's too dry. An effective brush is like a container of water with an inflow and outflow, constantly being refilled as it's drained, but always nearly filled, like a reservoir.

There are only three times you wipe your brush on the can, when you're breaking it in, dip it wipe, repeat four or five time. This is pushing paint into the center. From time to time as your brushing to remove excess paint build-up. And, if you apply more than needed and need a dry brush to remove the excess. Never wipe the brush after each dip. This is probably the biggest mistake I see people make. You're effectively depriving the brush of its ability to function and working against yourself. 

Dip the brush, halfway, and gently tap it against the side of the can, back and forth, one two. That's it, then brush.

The "wet" or "base" line is actually the paint that will be pushed up to the cut line. Drop that about a half inch from the actual cut line, then go out opposite what's been done, jiggle the brush up to the cut line, lock your wrist and drag the brush back toward what's already been cut. Always work back into wet paint. The brush will push the wet line paint up to the cut line. If you go too far below your cut line you'll probably need to re-dip your brush after laying the wet line. I go from wet paint out on the wet line, lock on, and pull the cut line back to wet paint, one fluid motion, forth and back. Then fade out your edge with the now dry(drier) brush.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

ToolSeeker said:


> Wife got me one of those Handi pails and got to admit after getting used to it I kinda like it.


I like them too ToolSeeker. They are nice for times when you're doing multiple colors at the same time. You can interchange the clear liners or use multiple Handi Pails to keep the job moving along. If I stop for a length of time, I just wrap a plastic bag around the pail and nothing dries out.


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

Sheridan.... Nice write-up..,,. and somegood points....thanks:thumbsup:


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## djonesax (Apr 14, 2008)

Wow what a great write up, thanks.

I am very guilty of this...



> Never wipe the brush after each dip. This is probably the biggest mistake I see people make. You're effectively depriving the brush of its ability to function and working against yourself.


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## jsheridan (Jan 30, 2011)

Glad I could help djonesax. Now that you're not going to be wiping off all the just applied paint you should be ready to go, lol. Good luck with it.


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