# Stone Veneer (ledgestone) fireplace remodel questions



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

I'de leave it off the floor like it is.
If you pull it out, make sure the pipe doesn't get too close to whatever wood is in the chase.

I'de mount a tv bracket after all the rock is done.

It's all personal preference.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2


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## bmeeks8 (Dec 27, 2008)

Looking at your picture, I believe we have similar gas fireplace units. Mine is a double-sided model made by Heat-n-Glo. It's hard to see the details in the smaller web picture, but yours looks a lot like the single-sided version of mine.

I have mine mounted in a stone veneer fireplace using man-made stone from Centurion Stoneworks. The stone veneer face is about 2" proud of the metal face of the fireplace, and I have no problems with heat getting trapped in the recess. I do, however, strongly recommend the blower unit for your fireplace if you do not have one. That prevents items above your fireplace (like your future TV) from becoming quite hot due to the rising hot air from the fireplace vents. Having a blower pushes that heat out into the room before it starts rising, and that goes a very long way in keeping the stone right around the fireplace opening much cooler. I did not originally include the blower with mine, but added it later. I'm very glad I did.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

Augy said:


> 1. Should the gas fireplace be flush with the surface or can it be set back a few inches? In other words, if it remained unmoved and I "bump out" the surrounding area that will be covered in stone, the front of the fireplace will end up being set back several inches from the face of the stone veneer. Just wondering if it will trap heat or any other concerns. Would a blower make a difference?
> 
> You can do it either way w/o problems, although the advice to get a blower from the poster right above me is good info IMO.
> 
> ...


I would keep it where it's at if it were me, as it's going to be a fair amount of work to lower it at this point. The hearth is purely taste, so I think it is fine either way.


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

Ok, thanks for the quick responses everyone. I think I'll plan to keep the fireplace where it's at if at all possible. Still unsure if I want to build out from the wall and use corner pieces or just keep everything flush with the wall. The former would introduce as much as 6" or so of setback from stone face to fireplace face, whereas the keeping it flush would create a set back of just the thickness of the stone (2" or so?). 

Any thought on how much recess I could get away with? 

And I'll order a blower for the reasons stated by bmeeks8 

Thanks again.


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

If you do want to pad it out from the wall, I'd shot for more like 4-5" finished, only because you'll be limited by the short leg on the return corners. If that doesn't make sense, you may need to get your stone purchased and in your possession before putting the framing in & determining the actual depth. I will tell you though that most of the cultured stone I've come across in the last 15+ years will only have about that 4-5" return on the short face, meaning you would likely need to "two-piece" the returns on some courses. These "two-pieces" would be very small and look awkward as well.


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> If you do want to pad it out from the wall, I'd shot for more like 4-5" finished, only because you'll be limited by the short leg on the return corners. If that doesn't make sense, you may need to get your stone purchased and in your possession before putting the framing in & determining the actual depth. I will tell you though that most of the cultured stone I've come across in the last 15+ years will only have about that 4-5" return on the short face, meaning you would likely need to "two-piece" the returns on some courses. These "two-pieces" would be very small and look awkward as well.


I see what you're saying. I think you are right about the stone return length...I ordered it but they carry the same type in a different color at the local Lowes (Stonecraft, I think). I'll take a look when I have a minute to stop in but what you are saying makes a lot of sense. I'll plan accordingly. Thanks!


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

jomama45 said:


> I would buy the TV mount that you want ahead of time and you can easily put 4 temporary bushings in before laying the stone. You can pull the temp. bushings out when the stone cures, and you'll have a simple pocket for the anchors to go into. The mounts really need to go into studs, not the thin veneer, so you may also want to put some additional wood backing in behind the TV if you're going to pad the wall out anyway.


I have the mount on hand already so this makes a lot of sense. What would you recommend to use as 'temp bushings'? Would some lag screws of the same size as the mounting kits screws work? Maybe some that are extra long so they stick out well past the face of the veneer?

Also, I ordered a fan unit last night and it will arrive Friday. My stone veneer flats have arrived at Lowes as well...just waiting for the corners to come in. Figures the one thing I need the most (the corners...to determine the return length and, thus, set the distance I bump it out) will be the last to arrive.

Again, thanks for the help. I really appreciate the suggestions...


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## Jazzmick (Sep 16, 2013)

*Same project*

I have a very similar project that I'd like to start (flush vs bump out)...what did you end up doing? Would be great to see some pics?

Thanks!!!


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

Jazzmick said:


> I have a very similar project that I'd like to start (flush vs bump out)...what did you end up doing? Would be great to see some pics?
> 
> Thanks!!!


I ended up making it essentially flat. It's actually bumped out the thickness of the cement board that I attached to the drywall so the corner returns were all cut. If I had it to do over again, I might box it out a little further from the wall but overall I'm happy with the results and glad I didn't try to relocate the fireplace. I ended up making a hearth and using slate tile to cover it. 

Here's a finished pic....


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## Jazzmick (Sep 16, 2013)

Awesome. Nice work! That depth looks good! Thanks for sharing.

I might be heading in the same direction. See pic. What stone product did you use? Were you happy with ease of install?


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## Augy (Mar 20, 2011)

I used a Stonecraft ledgestone product from Lowe's (http://www.lowes.com/pd_290588-86200-1115_0__?productId=3030802&Ntt=ledgestone&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dledgestone&facetInfo==

When I went to remodel the basement "man cave" I decided to use a different ledgestone product that is more like a tile and I liked it better but it is more money...that product is here:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_354383-9384...ne&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=ledgestone&facetInfo=

Here is the result from the second product in my man cave:









I should point out that the second product I used (the tile) is a LOT easier to install...just thinset and cutting the ends against the walls. I think it took 3 hours from start to completion and the look is IMO well worth the cost. I'm not sure it would look right, though, if it were used in the manner of the Stonecraft ledgestone from the first picture. Where I used it I was able to take it across the entire 12' wide wall and have it run into the facing walls. Having it end on a wall (like the first project) wouldn't look quite right I suspect. Good luck!


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