# J-channel on drywall edge, do I glue or just put in place



## NateHanson

There is a spray adhesive for cornerbeads and this sort of trim. I'd use that. Then you'll mud over the trim to make a smooth surface with the drywall. Use masking tape along the adjoining surface that won't be finished, to protect it while you mud and sand.


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## jerryh3

It's usually referred to as stop bead or J bead. We never used any type of adhesive on it. It usually fits tight on the drywall and shouldn't move after being installed. Just run a bead of caulk between it and the adjoining piece and it should look fine.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

jerryh3 said:


> It's usually referred to as stop bead or J bead. We never used any type of adhesive on it. It usually fits tight on the drywall and shouldn't move after being installed...


This is correct. There is no need for the use of any adhesives. The sheet gets attached to the framing and it, holds the J-Bead in place.

There are different widths of J-bead. 1/2", 3/8", 5/8".....dependant on the thickness of the sheetrock. Since I assume that you are using 1/2" sheetrock, make sure that you use the 1/2" J-bead.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

yummy mummy said:


> I need to add a J channel (I think that's what it is called)


Y.M.,

FWIW: It's actually called _"J-bead",_ and it's made of Vinyl, tho, you can also get it made of metal. (J-channel is a used in exterior vinyl siding).


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## yummy mummy

Thanks for the help.

I will do as stated.

Atlantic, I don't know where I got J channel from........


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## AtlanticWBConst.

yummy mummy said:


> Thanks for the help.
> 
> I will do as stated.
> 
> Atlantic, I don't know where I got J channel from........


Don't worry about it, because we deal with both, I even find myself mixing the two terms up as well. 
It even came up today in discussion. One of our workers was dealing with a repair that involved installing new "J-bead", and he called it "J-channel"....the terms are interchanged by alot of people in the industry...not that big of a deal...

http://www.trim-tex.com/catalog/jbeads.htm


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## Tscarborough

I call it casing bead, plastic or metal, interior or exterior, sheetrock, stucco, or vinyl, because that is the purpose of the product: to (en)case the edge of discontinous materials.


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## IctusBrucks

Finally a place where I can find into on j-bead/casing bead 

Hey everybody,
I am building a bit of an unusual project. I am building a small sub-room in my garage that will be sealed to enclose my reef aquarium filtration and equipment. 

The frame of the room rests on lifting levelers (very uneven garage floor), and is resting entirely on the garage slab. the wall that it is next to is supported by the foundation, not the garage slab. because of this, I have been advised not to try and finish the corners meeting from the 2 surfaces, a better idea would be to use j-bead.

My question to you guys is, should I cut my drywall so that the jbead itself is pressed up right against the wall? An employee at HD advised me to leave a 1/4" gap and then force 3/8" backer rod (a foam tube) into the gap to create a better seal? Is that necessary? Or is it standard practice to run some caulk along the corner to create a seal?

Thanks for any info!!!

Ryan Brucks
Level Designer
Epic Games


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## AtlanticWBConst.

You could get alot of movement, because of the difference of the stationary foundation and the slab. I have seen such.
In a normal arrangement, applying caulking would be the way to go. However, I can understand the suggestion of backer-rod use, in your situation, due to the likelyhood of extensive movement between the walls. 
Go with the backer-rod.


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## jerryh3

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> You could get alot of movement, because of the difference of the stationary foundation and the slab. I have seen such.
> In a normal arrangement, applying caulking would be the way to go. However, I can understand the suggestion of backer-rod use, in your situation, due to the likelyhood of extensive movement between the walls.
> Go with the backer-rod.


I'm surprised someone that worked at Home Depot knew what backer rod was.


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## IctusBrucks

lol thanks guys.

So do you recommend just leaving the backer rod in there by self? or should I still cover the rod in caulk for additional sealing?

"I'm surprised someone that worked at Home Depot knew what backer rod was."
ya I know. I actually misspoke, I got it at lowes, not HD. 

I am using 3/8" drywall and I got the drywall and jbead at lowes. When I went back to get more jbead since I ran out, lowes didn't have any 3/8, only 1/2. When I asked them about it, they told me that they never sold 3/8", only 1/2". Imagine me trying to explain that just last week I bought 3/8" jbead there.

HD didn't have any either. any idea which stores cary a variety of jbead sizes?


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## IctusBrucks

one more thing...

jbead has a long and a short side.

which side is meant to face out? 

Is it OK for me to use staples to secure it from the back, just incase the backer rod gets loose (which I feel might crack the mud if the jbead isn't secured some other way).


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## jerryh3

The small side goes out. Yes, you can staple it. Just try it with a spare piece first to make sure it won't crack.


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## kgphoto

Backer rod is called "backer" rod because it backs up the caulk. It creates and hourglass shape to the caulk bead that gives it greater elasticity.

I think a paper faced mud on bead like No-Coat 325 would probably be a better approach. Either will work, the NO-Coat will be a cleaner look and faster to finish.


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