# Anchor wall to concrete floor



## Bigman610 (Mar 2, 2007)

What is the best way to anchor a 2"x4" wall to a concrete floor in a basement?


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Hammer drill and Tap con screws.

This is what I used and they work great.


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## Bigman610 (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks for the reply, I actually just saw your response to a similar question in the construction forum. Thanks again, I'll give this a shot.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Easiest way (My vote) = .22 caliber powder actuated fastener.
Some Manufacturer's: Simpson Strongties, Reminton, Hilti....

Use ceramic coated fasteners and number 3 and 4 firing caps....


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## elementx440 (Jan 24, 2007)

go for the hilti gun, its just more fun that way... blast away


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

If you decide to go with the power actuated fastener, you need to wear protection for your ears.

I found it really loud and did not like the smell that it created.

And I guess I did not have the strength to hit it hard enough as I had to try several times before it fired.
(I did not use the trigger type one.) 

Good luck.


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## handyflyer (Jan 12, 2007)

I gotta go with the 2 3/4" tapcons and construction glue for a wall that will last forever. The powder actuated nails seem to blow apart the concrete once in a while. You never have a misfire with a tapcon. Plus if you move the wall by chance while installing a tapcon, it is much easier to remove a tapcon than a nail that was driven in by a 22 charge. Just my 2 cents.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

handyflyer said:


> I gotta go with the 2 3/4" tapcons and construction glue for a wall that will last forever. The powder actuated nails seem to blow apart the concrete once in a while. You never have a misfire with a tapcon. Plus if you move the wall by chance while installing a tapcon, it is much easier to remove a tapcon than a nail that was driven in by a 22 charge. Just my 2 cents.


Thanks for sharing your thoughts. 

FWIW - All good points - Your decision does make sense to me...


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## Mr. Michael (Jan 10, 2007)

i recently used a .22 caliber Remington nailer, and the fastener just blew a chip in the concrete floor. since then, i bought some Tapcon screws and a masonry bit. 
my 2 pennies...


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

FWIW: We have experienced this 'blow-out chipping' ..... from time to time on older concrete floors that are mixed very densely, or for what ever reasons ....

Bare in mind, that doesn't always mean that the .22 cal gun is not right for the job.

Just so you know: We have about ten or more powder actuated guns... some are for different applications. We also have a .27 cal and a .30 cal.... for denser materials....
Not every 'gun' is right for 'every' job. It's the same concept of:

A heavy framing hammer is used to drive spikes in.
Vs.
A light finish hammer is used to drive small 'pin' or brad nails in. 

Interchanging these 'two tools' will yield far different results....

Thus, 'over-kill' will damage the materials around it....

That is why there are different power cap levels (Levels 1-4), different cal. guns, different length fastener 'pins', different 'style' fastener pins, etc .....

(Just something to realize and think about....)

Anyhow: If you are comfortable with using tapcons, then by all means, go ahead and use those. Use the tools that you are most comfortable with....


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## ron schenker (Jan 15, 2006)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> FWIW: We have experienced this 'blow-out chipping' ..... from time to time on older concrete floors that are mixed very densely, or for what ever reasons ....
> 
> Bare in mind, that doesn't always mean that the .22 cal gun is not right for the job.
> 
> ...


What do you do to fine tune your final choice for the denseness of concrete? Do you just nail away till you find the right combination?


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

ron schenker said:


> What do you do to fine tune your final choice for the denseness of concrete? Do you just nail away till you find the right combination?


Generally, the issue is the power of the cap (when it comes to bottom sills in basments) so:
If we fire it in..... and it's too powerful on the first shot, then we step it down. If it is too weak, then we step it up. 
We keep plenty of different power level cap-rounds in each case with the guns so that we have a decent supply that we can pick from. 
Cap #3's and #4's seem to be the most common for residential basements....
From time to time, you will get some minor chipping, but generally, that fastener is in there tight. 
When we do commercial steel framing, #2's and 1" fasteners are all that is needed.
(That is not to say that we refuse to use any other way of installation. Tapcons are great too - Both the nail anchors and the screw anchors....)

We've never had an issue with the guns. We are currently remodeling 3 basements. Here is a pic of one we did:


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## ron schenker (Jan 15, 2006)

Thanx Atlantic...beautiful basement, and with the extra windows and walkout I'll bet it doesn't feel like a basement:thumbsup:


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

*Atlantic*

Beautiful job Atlantic!

Doesn't really feel like a basement with the walkout.


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## Bigman610 (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks for the advice everyone, I ended up going with 2 3/4" Tapcon screws and some Liquid Nails. It worked great. Thanks again!


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## Stingray (Mar 17, 2007)

Hello all, I was wondering when installing the Tapcon screws is a Hammer drill required? If so, which one do you recommend? I recently looked at some prices and they are pretty expensive.

Thanks,


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Hi stingray

Yes, the hammer drill really is required in order to drill through the concrete.

I have a Ryobi, which is really not that expensive but I find does the job well.


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## Stingray (Mar 17, 2007)

Cool, thanks for the info yummy, guess I am buying one tomorrow.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

Great, I hope it works well for you.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

yummy mummy said:


> Hi stingray
> 
> Yes, the hammer drill really is required in order to drill through the concrete.
> 
> I have a Ryobi, which is really not that expensive but I find does the job well.


 
FWIW -:yes: Just confirming this - Y.M. is absolutely right about this. Don't try to do this using a normal drill and 'tapping' alot of holes....

(Y.M. -Glad to see you are up and still contributing here - :thumbsup: )


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## Stingray (Mar 17, 2007)

Thank you for the help guys. Atlantic, just reading around the board here, I see you're a big advocate of the 2 inch spacing between the freezewall and studs, which I think is a smart idea. 

I do have a question about the vapor barrier. I have a very dry basement and had a contractor come out and said the plastic sheeting should be applied directly to the poured concrete walls. I think he is wrong, and after viewing all of your posts I am now going to apply the plastic outside of the insulation and studs. How do you attach the sheeting to the studs? 

Sorry , I am a bit of a newb here.


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## yummy mummy (Sep 11, 2006)

*atlantic*

Oh, oh, that dreaded vapor barrier question!!!!!!!:laughing: 

Boy, have I come a long way atlantic. I can even answer some of the questions now. :laughing: 



Stingray:

Don't be sorry that you are a newb. A lot of us are here.
But before you know it, you will be answering some of the questions, I'm sure.:yes:


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