# Need some safety input for table saw



## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Got my first table saw and a bit intimidated by safety options available. I have come across feather boards, push blocks, push sticks and also commercial ones like Grrripper which are way too expensive. 

I am thinking of adding a feather board to provide lateral pressure against the fence and one more feather board attached to the fence to exert a downward pressure and then use a push stick to push the wood through. Is this a good option? I cannot use a gripper because it would mean I need to take out the blade guard.

Can someone suggest if this is ok or if I should just splurge on a gripper. The issue with the use of gripper and blade guard remains above.

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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

From personal experience I can't recommend the gripper .
I use shop made push shoes of various thicknesses and heel lengths and some thin of masonite .

Push sticks are ok and used alot . The push stick being used in the pic is in the incorrect place . Test this theory by leaving the saw off and the fence away from the blade 5 - 7 -or 7 inches . Place a 1x4 , as an example , against the fence and push stick close to the fence as in the picture . Watch the far end of the 1x4 move away from the fence as you push . Repeat the theory by pushing the 1x4 near the left edge of the 1x4 and the lumber remains against the fence . Add that to lumber that has internal stress in some instances and blades with too little set and we are setting it up perfect for kick back .

I have a magnetic feather board and like it but i don't use it for every cut . I also have shop made feather boards but the fence on my saw is impossible to clamp one to .

These push shoes can be made with three or four 1" holes bored where the cut out is on these .
Tip - when making a wooden pusher , cut a strip of heel stock , cut a heel off the strip and glue it to the board . Renew as required if you can find the heel strip you cut . 

The push stick is pic is copied but wrong with the stick in that position . Of course some situations will vary .


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## Jeekinz (Jan 29, 2007)

No need for a featherboard on the fence. Make sacrificial push sticks out of scrap 1x material and run them through the blade. A feathrboard on the table is good for small stuff.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

First off, let me say that I am glad you are looking at *safely *using your new saw. As Norm Abrams said at the beginning of every episode, _"Be sure to read, understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools PROPERLY will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury."_

I have a magnetic feather-board. When using these, ensure it is placed behind the blade. If you place it alongside the blade, the workpiece will pinch which can cause a dangerous kick-back. I also have a homemade feather-board I clamp to the rip fence when necessary. There are numerous videos on-line that show how to make and use feather-boards safely.

The Grr-ripper is good tool...










...but I found it way overpriced, so I made my own from some scrap lumber I had.

The t-track was leftover from the cross-cut sled (background) I made. The knobs were the only thing I bought. There is sandpaper glued to the bottom to securely hold the pieces as I push them through. I have used it numerous time and it has worked great. I have since added a foot pad to the adjustable side plate.










I make my own push sticks using a pattern I keep on my computer.










Begin slowly with your new saw. Follow all the safety instructions that came with it and never let yourself become complacent.
Get some cheap lumber and practice your cuts.

Remember;
Always wear eye and hearing protection.
Never stand directly behind the workpiece when cutting.
Always check the wood stock for foreign objects like, nails, screws or staples.
Never lean or reach over a spinning blade
Do not wear any loose dangling objects or clothing
Always disconnect power before changing blade
Keep the saw top clear of cut-offs and excess sawdust
Use outfeed tables/stands when appropriate
If the workpiece binds, DO NOT push harder. STOP the saw immediately and try to determine what caused the bind.
Do not start the saw with the work piece engaged in the blade
Use zero-clearance inserts to minimize kick-back or pinching
Never free-hand a cut. Always use the rip fence *OR* miter gauge. *Never the rip fence and miter gauge the same time.*


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Drachenfire said:


> First off, let me say that I am glad you are looking at *safely *using your new saw. As Norm Abrams said at the beginning of every episode, _"Be sure to read, understand and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools PROPERLY will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury."_
> 
> I have a magnetic feather-board. When using these, ensure it is placed behind the blade. If you place it alongside the blade, the workpiece will pinch which can cause a dangerous kick-back. I also have a homemade feather-board I clamp to the rip fence when necessary. There are numerous videos on-line that show how to make and use feather-boards safely.
> 
> ...


Doesn't using a push block or gripper require you to take off the blade guard? How is that safer?

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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> Doesn't using a push block or gripper require you to take off the blade guard? How is that safer?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Using a push stick does not necessarily require removing the blade guard. I have push sticks of various thicknesses that I use depending on the work piece.

Trying to cut small pieces with the blade guard and anti-kickback pawl in place can result in the piece jamming between the fence and blade and/or the pawl and blade which can result in kick-back. While using the Grr-ripper does require removing the guard it is safer when cutting smaller pieces as you maintain control of both pieces throughout the entire cut. Using a zero-clearance insert increases that safety.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

The Mag-Switch magnetic featherboard is very handy, but I don't use it for table saw safety. I use it occasionally for table saw cut quality.

The push block like in @SeniorSitizen 's first photo are very helpful. I never did understand the push-sticks like in Senior's second photo. The don't hold down the far end of the board. It almost forces you to put your hand on the far end of the board. The push blocks will hold the board down against the table.

If you like the Gripper, don't get too excited about loosing the plastic blade guard. Good chance you will find the plastic guard too often gets in the way and will end up removing it anyways.

The Jessem TS stock guides get a lot of good reviews for holding boards down and against the fence. 

The other accessory to look at is a quality miter gage. Its an extremely useful item. The short, crappy miter gage that probably came with your saw is pretty much useless.


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## sdowney717 (8 mo ago)

I took the blade guard off within a week of using my table saw. I bought a Grizzly cast iron saw. I use push sticks or if not close, my hands. The guard often interferes with my cutting. I have had it decades, in that time the motor burned out and I put a 3hp 240v wired motor on, that really improved the saw power. Also just recently end of the rip fence broke off and it actually works better, it must have slightly out of alignment to the blade, but nothing I could easily tell. Rip fence is the poorest designed thing on this saw. It uses large round guide bars on the end and a big cast iron lock down head and a steel bar, but had this flimsy pot metal end to lock the long end which is what broke in half.

For safety try to wear eye protection when you use it and ear muffs.


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## sdowney717 (8 mo ago)

Years ago the miter broke, cheap cast thing cracked into pieces. But I found if you mark a line on what your cutting and sight down on top as you cut, you can get it done well for angle cuts without using a miter guide.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I may get scolded, but hey. I don't use the blade guard on my Delta Unisaw. I have found using the guard gives a false sense of safety, and obscures you vision, making it an actual unsafe item. I use elongated push shoes as the others. It allows forward pressure to be placed on the wood, making a fence featherboard un necessary. The riving knife is good, but only at the point of exit from the blade. It keeps the wood from causing pressure on the blade and binding.

With that said, you have a 10" piece of sharpened steel spinning at high revolutions. It has no brains, so use yours. Keep your hands at a safe distance, wear eye protection and hearing protection. Watch the fence and wood going through the fence to keep it tight.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Folks - the part that confuses me is this. We are asked not to get the hand close to the blade but essentially when you use a push block and take off the guard isn't this exactly what you are doing?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Not with a properly constructed block. Your hand is 3 or 4" above the blade. Note the design with the notch on the bottom for pushing the wood. Your hand is well away.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

How close , 4" , 6" - - just make the push shoe or stick the height needed .
And watching the blade does not make for a better , smoother cut . Watch where the lumber is in relation to what's supposed to be guiding it . OK , go ahead and watch the new blade you just installed do it's job , we know you're going to do just that .

OH forgot to mention why those blade guards everyone usually takes off are now transparent . They were made transparent in later years so you can watch the blade better but removed clears that up dramatically .


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## Old Thomas (Nov 28, 2019)

I think distraction, even for a moment, is bad. Wear eye protection and don’t take your eyes off your work. No looking at the clock, phone, anything but your work while that blade is turning. And keep the distracting kids away.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Old Thomas said:


> I think distraction, even for a moment, is bad. Wear eye protection and don’t take your eyes off your work. No looking at the clock, phone, anything but your work while that blade is turning. And keep the distracting kids away.


At the university study , those items you mention are in rule #3 . Emotional instability causes accidents .


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Let's face it, folks. Most table saw accidents are experienced by those "experienced" users who sue table saws every day. Complacency is the biggest threat to your safety, and that is true when using ANY tool, powered or not. Industrial/professional incidents typically far outweigh the frequency of incidents from homeowners who are scared of the equipment.

Maintain your fear/respect for these potentially highly dangerous tools:


slow down
check everything carefully before committing to a cut... EVERYTHING
do not allow yourself to use risky cutting techniques (if you get the hint of a potential cringe on the back of your neck before cutting, or during cutting... shut it down and think it through more carefully)
if you have a near hit, shut it down until you understand what happened, why it happened, and are committed to doing whatever it takes to not happen again... you can always use sacrificial pieces of wood for supports, carriers, spacers, etc., even if you have to purchase a little extra "trash" wood to do so
DO NTO COMPROMISE your own needs for taking safe measures, regardless of how many "old timers" or "professionals" pooh-pooh your efforts - YOU (and your family) are the one(s) who will live with your choices, not them!

In all my 35+ years of using table saws - w/o blade guards - (and many other power tools), I've only had three kickbacks, and each time stopped work for the day to get my head straight... never hurt by any of them. Thinking time is absolutely necessary. I now find that I continue to approach the tools more carefully, more slowly, more confidently, and even make fewer incorrect cuts as I do so in addition to having fewer near hits.


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## SW Dweller (Jan 6, 2021)

The other thing I added to my saw was a foot switch. Lift foot power is shut off. 
I do use the saw with out a blade guard as I found it got in the way most of the time.

All the other suggestions should be implemented as well as the foot switch.








Momentary Power Foot Switch


Amazing deals on this Momentary Power Foot Switch at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com


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## Chris616 (Dec 31, 2019)

By starting this thread you’ve already demonstrated that you have the most important thing for operating it safely – the correct attitude. As @F250 wrote, complacency is the biggest threat to your safety. I don’t use the blade guard, because it does get in the way sometimes, but my thought before every cut is that this machine has the potential to significantly detrimentally impact my life.

Between a featherboard and push sticks I don’t think that you need a device like the Gripper. When I’m running very thin stock through, which a push stick might slip off, I use these.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

Drachenfire said:


> Never free-hand a cut. Always use the rip fence *OR* miter gauge. *Never the rip fence and miter gauge the same time.*


I was nodding my head in agreement with everything you said up to this point. 

There is nothing inherently dangerous about free-hand cutting. Kind of a necessity for cross-cutting in the middle of a 4x8 sheet. Granted, free-handing little stuff can be dangerous business.

Using the miter gauge and fence works just fine - *as long as they're on the same side of the blade.*


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## wallmaxx (Dec 12, 2011)

Read the owners manual.
Watch 10 or 20 YouTube videos.
Give it a go.
Learn by doing.

Good luck.


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## sdowney717 (8 mo ago)

In 30 years of table saw use, I had 1 major kickback from a 2xX I was ripping. The board pushed back with a force like a extremely hard punch to my gut. I was sore for a day. A 10" saw blade with a 3hp motor has a very fast moving edge and a lot of inertia behind it. That is all I remember. So now I wear a suit of medieval armor on my torso....


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

HotRodx10 said:


> There is nothing inherently dangerous about free-hand cutting. Kind of a necessity for cross-cutting in the middle of a 4x8 sheet. Granted, free-handing little stuff can be dangerous business.


Using a cabinet saw with ample infeed and outfeed support may reduce the dangers of free-hand cutting a 4x8 sheet of plywood. It is a completely different situation on on a portable or contractor grade saw especially for a novice. The OPs post implies he does not have a cabinet saw AND he is a novice.



HotRodx10 said:


> Using the miter gauge and fence works just fine - *as long as they're on the same side of the blade. *


Every guide to woodworking and every shop class on the subject spells out the inherent dangers of using both miter gauge and rip fence simultaneously.

I have been woodworking for some 30-years, not once have I ever come across a need to violate this safety rule.

As experienced woodworkers on a forum, we have a responsibility to help novices seeking guidance develop safe use of their tools, and using a miter gauge and rip fence simultaneously definitely does not fall into that criteria.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

wallmaxx said:


> Learn by doing.


A table saw is not the place for OJT. Safety is of utmost importance.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

F250 said:


> Let's face it, folks. Most table saw accidents are experienced by those "experienced" users who sue table saws every day.
> 
> I would think hours of operation would play a important role in that statistic .


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> ... (The saw) has no brains, so use yours....


This. I'll add that the tool also has no remorse. It just likes to cut stuff.

I worked in a production woodworking shop for a while. My friends thought I was crazy. I told them that not hurting yourself was easy. Keep your hands out of the machines. No safety device is as effective as your attitude and brain. 

Congrats on your new saw. You will find it to be valuable and fun to use. The precision will make you a better craftsman. Respect and awareness will keep your digits intact.

I have a store bought small featherboard that locks into the miter slot, and larger home-made one that I clamp to the table. I don't use them often, but they are great for some more challenging cuts.

One tip I might offer is to hook two fingers over the fence. That indexes and locks at least one hand in a safe position.

The most challenging cut I've done on my saw was making a four inch wide oak threshold. The board was on edge, and the full height of the blade was exposed with the guard removed. It took me a couple of days of thinking to figure that one out. An auxiliary fence and the above mentioned large featherboard made it safe and easy. I've made a few more thresholds and transitions since. Fun stuff.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

F250 said:


> Let's face it, folks. Most table saw accidents are experienced by those "experienced" users who sue table saws every day. Complacency is the biggest threat to your safety, and that is true when using ANY tool, powered or not. Industrial/professional incidents typically far outweigh the frequency of incidents from homeowners who are scared of the equipment.
> 
> Maintain your fear/respect for these potentially highly dangerous tools:
> 
> ...


Possibly hours of operation plays a role in that experienced vs non- experienced statistic .


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## wallmaxx (Dec 12, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> A table saw is not the place for OJT. Safety is of utmost importance.


Live in fear then...................you're one of them virtue signalers it seems.

I have all my fingers and have framed over 350 homes, apartments and hotels over a 20 year span.

But hey.......you do you, brother


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

wallmaxx said:


> Live in fear then...................you're one of them virtue signalers it seems.


I have no idea what a virtue signaler is, but I am probably guilty.

Seeking the help of experienced carpenters in the proper use of complicated tools is a good idea. Of course the tool manual is excellent. Taking the advice on how to do things on a DIY forum has its virtues, sometimes. All would supersede just jumping in and turning it on hoping for the best.

Now, let me go look up virtue signaler, as I am sure it isn't nice, but thanks anyway.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Hello folks thanks so much for helping. I posted on my local town Facebook page and obviously for liability reasons people can't call me to their place but one carpenter has volunteered to come home this Sunday and guide me.

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> one carpenter has volunteered to come home this Sunday and guide me.


That's what I'm talking about. Good call.


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## zircon (Sep 24, 2007)

On the table saw I avoid cutting small, short, narrow ,thin stock. I use the bandsaw for that. I am much more comfortable with the bandsaw. Also, I keep the guard on unless the cut absolutely can’t be made with it.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Has anyone tried the push stick position test .


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I don't like push sticks too much. No forward leverage against kick back. This one seems to perform well, even on thin work.









POWERTEC Push Block for Router Table Saw w/Blade Angle & Depth Gauge, Square Center Finder, Hook Rule 71575 - The Home Depot


Introducing the Router Table Saw Push Block by POWERTEC. This router table saw accessory was intended for blade set up and ripping applications, but offers a versatile design that delivers multi-functional



www.homedepot.com


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

If one really is worried about safety with a table saw , buy a Stop Saw, will not loose finger with one.Have a healthy respect for it , don't be fearful of it, pay attention to what is going on. One important thing is DON'T stand directly behind it when cut.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Just ran across this video earlier today


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Randy Bush said:


> If one really is worried about safety with a table saw , buy a Stop Saw, will not loose finger with one.Have a healthy respect for it , don't be fearful of it, pay attention to what is going on. One important thing is DON'T stand directly behind it when cut.


Nephew has a Stop . As a American Airlines pilot he can't loose or severly damage a finger or his career may be over .


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

I had a good friend of mine that I wired up his dream shop.
He was also our vet who was retiring, so I only saw him on occasion. I was saw him and he was missing a few fingers. he had a diabetic episode and fell across the table. He told me the biggest regret was not investing in a saw stop when he bought his saw.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

jbfan said:


> I had a good friend of mine that I wired up his dream shop.
> He was also our vet who was retiring, so I only saw him on occasion. I was saw him and he was missing a few fingers. he had a diabetic episode and fell across the table. He told me the biggest regret was not investing in a saw stop when he bought his saw.


OMG , terrible


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

In 2020 I almost cut off 2 fingers on my table saw - _completely my fault and preventable! _My surgeon said her husband was contemplating one of those save stop saws but in the end didn't buy it because of the price ...... if it was too pricey for them I know it would be for me!


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

The "hot dog" saws are truly expensive and the replacement parts when it saves your hot dog is almost the cost of the saw. I don't recall any testing done on an actual finger, either. It works off moisture, so what if you are cutting slightly wet PT?? Face it, we can only save us from ourselves by using common sense.


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## notnew2diy (Sep 1, 2017)

SeniorSitizen said:


> Has anyone tried the push stick position test .
> 
> View attachment 722534


I've only used a table saw for 21 years. I always use 2 push sticks. 1 to push, 1 on the out feed side to keep it near the fence, similar to Seniors pic. I've had 2 episodes of excitement/kickback...
... I did not use an out feed table/roller for a longer cut.
... I was not 100% paying attention to the task at hand.

Having a very healthy respect for the tool, the damage it can cause, goes a long way.

Play safe...Don.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

chandler48 said:


> I don't recall any testing done on an actual finger


Probably hard to get volunteers.

A neighbour has a Sawstop. It is very fine saw. The earlier models were not so much as they concentrated on the 'stop tech' but the table design, fences, etc. weren't great so folks were paying big bucks for a mediocre saw.

The brake cartridge is about $125 up here. As a hobbyist though with not unlimited funds, it's hard to swallow the upfront cost of the saw.

I, too, removed the blade guard years ago. I found that between dado cuts, sleds, etc. where it has to come off, I just got tired of constantly removing it. With an aftermarket fence now, I'd have to to see if would even fit.


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

The guy who designed the sawstop actually did do a test where he carefully put his finger into the blade, it barely scuffed the skin before slamming to a stop. I saw the video a couple times but don't know if it's around anymore, probably be deemed too "graphic" by youtube standards these days.

Often wondered what kind of damage you'd get if you suddenly fell into the blade. Always wanted to see a drop test, like throwing a steak on the blade or something similar.

Take that back, it's still there!


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## McGillicuddy (May 31, 2020)

Good on you for wanting to learn proper table saw usage. A table saw is something to be respected, not feared though. I like watching YT videos on the correct and incorrect way to make cuts on a table saw. There are always new things to learn and bad habits to unlearn.
I like this guy:





I use a Grripper (no blade guard), or multiple push sticks. If you plan on doing crosscuts I would make (or buy) a crosscut sled. Also, make sure you have enough space on your outfeed table to handle the piece you are cutting. 

Those sawstops are really tempting. I've used their large shop saw which is incredibly expensive but now that they have a jobsite saw under $1K I'm seriously considering selling my DeWalt.


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## Jeekinz (Jan 29, 2007)

Nothing like a tablesaw safety thread luring in the sawstop fans. lol


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Personally, I will never own a SawStop.

Aside from the ridiculous price and continuing expenditure (brake/blade) of owning one, my primary reason is the founder of the company, Steven Gass is an ambulance chasing sleaze.

Initially he had no intentions of manufacturing table saws. His intention was to license his invention to existing companies. They all rejected him mainly because of the exorbitant royalty fees he demanded that would price their products out of many consumer markets. He also wanted some operational control over their product without incurring any liability.

Miffed, Gass ran crying to the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and tried to get them to _mandate _the use of his technology by all table saw manufacturers. Upon learning this, the tool industry proved to the CPSC that the safety features currently in use on their products negated the _mandatory need_ of Gass’s invention. The CPSC agreed and refused Gass’s demands. That is when he started manufacturing his own saws.

Additionally, Gass hires himself out as an “expert witness” to plaintiffs suing table saw manufacturers who most of the time get injured because of their own negligence.

By the way, Gass himself is a lawyer.

I own a 27-year-old 3hp Craftsman 113 series table saw with cast iron top and wings. Over the years, It has been upgraded with a Delta fence, machined pulleys, and a link belt. I rigidly adhere to the safety protocols when using that tool. I have lost count of the number of projects I have done with that table saw over the years and have never had an incident. My father was in construction long before SawStop. He was the one who taught me safety with power tools. In all the years on the job and all the projects he did in our house (many I helped with), we never once had an accident with the power tools.

My point is the same as others here have pointed out. The overwhelming majority of injuries with power tools stem from the user not following safety protocols and/or not learning to use the tool properly.

IMO, tools like SawStop, while perhaps beneficial in a school environment does encourage inattention as the user comes to rely on the technology to save them from their own negligence. After tripping the brake a few times to the tune of some $150 (brake and blade) each time, the owner will likely start engaging the bypass every time negating the purpose of the technology. It is far better to teach/learn proper and safe use of the power tool.

I do not begrudge others who love the product and are willing to shell out the small fortune for it. I choose not to for the reasons stated.

Point-of-interest, SawStop has since been acquired by TTS Tooltechnic Systems, the same company that owns Festool which partly explains the reason the high prices on those table saws remain.


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## Randy Bush (Dec 9, 2020)

Drachenfire said:


> Personally, I will never own a SawStop.
> 
> Aside from the ridiculous price and continuing expenditure (brake/blade) of owning one, my primary reason is the founder of the company, Steven Gass is an ambulance chasing sleaze.
> 
> ...


Another interesting thing with them is that to much moisture in lumber can trip the stop too.


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

chandler48 said:


> The "hot dog" saws are truly expensive and the replacement parts when it saves your hot dog is almost the cost of the saw. I don't recall any testing done on an actual finger, either. It works off moisture, so what if you are cutting slightly wet PT?? Face it, we can only save us from ourselves by using common sense.


I saw a Youtube video of one guy who DID actually run the test with his own finger. He had to try to make himself touch the blade 4 or 5 times before he could actually make himself do it, and sure enough, the saw thought his finger was a hot dog! A close up view of where the blade contacted the guy's finger revealed a barely detectable notch in his skin, but not all the way through to the underlying flesh.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Randy Bush said:


> Another interesting thing with them is that to much moisture in lumber can trip the stop too.


Exactly. That is what I meant when I spoke the brake getting tripped a few times leading to the owner engaging the bypass every time to avoid it.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Made this push block









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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

That will keep your hands out of harm's way. It will be notched by the blade passing under it, but better than a hand.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

I just make my push blocks out of 5/8" or 3/4" plywood, similar to this:









If I'm cutting too close to the fence, and it gets cut up too much, I just throw it in the scrap wood bin and make a new one.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

HotRodx10 said:


> I just make my push blocks out of 5/8" or 3/4" plywood, similar to this:
> 
> View attachment 722635
> 
> If I'm cutting too close to the fence, and it gets cut up too much, I just throw it in the scrap wood bin and make a new one.


Is the one I made ok? Now the question I have is sometimes the push block will go over the blade because the distance from fence to blade is narrow. For a little wider piece that needs to be ripped, if I use the block will it go between the blade and fence? I thought that is not supposed to be done.

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Your block will go against your fence, and will get cut up. It is it's job. Especially on thinner rips. No big deal. Make another.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Your block will go against your fence, and will get cut up. It is it's job. Especially on thinner rips. No big deal. Make another.


What about sheets wider than my block?

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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> Is the one I made ok?


Sure. It's probably better (safer) than mine, but it basically does the same job. When it's time to replace it because it gets too cut up, for the replacement, consider screwing the handle part, and the plywood piece on the back, to the 2x, so that once it gets too many grooves in it, you can reuse the handle part on a new 2x block.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> What about sheets wider than my block?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


No problem for those.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

HotRodx10 said:


> No problem for those.


So it's ok if my block goes between the saw and fence for wider cuts?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

It MUST go adjacent to the fence for the entire cut. That keeps downward pressure and helps keep it against the fence. If it gets cut up, so be it. If the cuts are wider that's good.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

How do I stop this from happening?









This is why you don’t stand behind a table saw blade! Stay safe out there!







youtube.com





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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> How do I stop this from happening?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You'd use a (sacrificial) push block that's wide enough to push the cutoff piece all the way through, past the blade, or build a sled. It happens more often with miter cuts, like what is shown in the video, where the piece gets wedged between the blade and the table, but rarely it can happen with straight cuts, also. Ways to avoid kickback like that are covered in the video in Post #35.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Always stand to the left of the saw if you are right handed. Left handed.....I don't know. That way it is natural for you to put pressure on the wood toward the fence and push at the same time.


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## acali (Jan 6, 2020)

anonymous1977 said:


> Made this push block


I like using those more than any commercial product I've tried.
Go ahead and cut a couple extra 2x4 sections and end pieces now so you aren't tempted to keep using it long beyond its reasonable lifespan.


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## ScottyDBQ (May 8, 2021)

If you remove your blade guard, you need to determine if your saw has a riving knife or a splitter. Both of the these are positioned on the far side of the blade to keep the wood being sawed from squeezing together due to internal pressure of the wood after it is cut. A riving knife usually goes up and down with the blade and is usually about the same height as the blade. A splitter is a metal blade - like piece that is frequently part of a plexiglass blade guard, does not go up and down when you raise and lower the blade and because it's part of the blade guard assembly, if you remove the blade guard, you have removed the splitter. In that case, to keep the wood from closing on itself after it goes through the blade which can cause a kickback, you can install a stationary splitter as is shown in the bottom photo of entry #4. If the small piece sticking up on the far side of the curve cut made by the saw blade. I believe micro jig makes these and they come with a jig that will help you line it up correctly with the blade. It is also common to install one of these devices if you have a zero clearance insert – also shown in the bottom photo of entry #4. Often a zero clearance insert prevents the use of a riving knife and will likely affect the ability to use a blade guard and splitter combination. There are numerous videos on how to make a zero clearance insert. If you use a feather board, make sure the end of the feather board that is farthest from you does not go so far forward that the blade is even partially between the feather board and the fence. That feather board could compress the workpiece onto the saw blade and cause kickback. Do not put a feather board on the far side of the blade to hold wood that has been cut. That may compress the wood going through the blade and result in a kickback. Before you make any cut, unplug the saw and practice the motions you're going to have to make to complete the cut. If anything about that process seems that it might be dangerous, it probably is, and you should think again about a different procedure that might seem safer. If you happen to cut up a push block or push stick, don't be too alarmed. It has done its job of protecting your hands and fingers. There will be plenty of YouTube videos on saw safety and kickback. A little fear and caution will help keep you on your toes and make your use of your new tool more enjoyable and safer.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

@ScottyDBQ Shorter posts will be read by more people. The OP has a good handle on the safety of his saw, but you gave a good primer.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Folks wish me luck. I have watched countless hours of table saw safety videos and now time has come to try it out. To help I have two neighbors stopping by tomorrow and day after to help guide me. I am hoping I should be good but still a bit anxious. Every video I see says this is the most dangerous equipment. I already have the attached push block made. I purchased two feather boards from harbor freight. I intend to keep the blade guard on. If my Skil saw comes with a riving knife I intend to keep that on too. I hope I am going to be fine.
















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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Keep this in mind while observing . A neighbor can be wrong and possibly that's the way his daddy did it .

Advise -- do not talk while making the cut and do not listen to someone else talking . It's a known fact the human mind can not think or concentrate on two subjects simultaneously . Discuss procedures with the saw shut down . 

I do commend the neighbors for being concerned and on the other hand they may know procedures and processes we don't .

Example a little scary -- one of my sons in his mid 50's has a big shop with wood working equipment running out his ears . Recently he nearly ran his hand into a new band saw with a very sharp blade because this saw has a coast down period for a few seconds and is nearly silent in that phase . It has a brake and he assured me it will be used from that day foreward .


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Can someone help me understand this? Let's say I do a rip cut and hold the piece firmly against the fence by the block I made and to prevent lateral movement use either the push stick or feather board. How do I ensure the cut off piece (left side of the blade) does not kick back? In all videos I have seen when they cut like this the cut off piece just stays on the left of the saw blade. What is stopping it from flying back?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

The free side won't have blade pressure once the cut is complete, so no kick back on that side. Worry about the blade-to-fence piece. THAT's where the danger is. Keep your push block on it until the cut is complete, then some. Your guard will be in the way, but it serves a purpose.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

anonymous1977 said:


> Can someone help me understand this? Let's say I do a rip cut and hold the piece firmly against the fence by the block I made and to prevent lateral movement use either the push stick or feather board. How do I ensure the cut off piece (left side of the blade) does not kick back? In all videos I have seen when they cut like this the cut off piece just stays on the left of the saw blade. What is stopping it from flying back?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


It stays because it has room to move away by possibly thousandths of an inch . On the flip side we're advised not to cross cut with miter gauge and the cut off end against the rip fence because that off cut is jammed against the fence with no free room to move .


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> The free side won't have blade pressure once the cut is complete, so no kick back on that side. Worry about the blade-to-fence piece. THAT's where the danger is. Keep your push block on it until the cut is complete, then some. Your guard will be in the way, but it serves a purpose.


Thank you. That's helpful. 

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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

SeniorSitizen said:


> It stays because it has room to move away by possibly thousandths of an inch . On the flip side we're advised not to cross cut with miter gauge and the cut off end against the rip fence because that off cut is jammed against the fence with no free room to move .


You would move the fence much further out in that case.

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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> The free side won't have blade pressure once the cut is complete, so no kick back on that side. Worry about the blade-to-fence piece. THAT's where the danger is. Keep your push block on it until the cut is complete, then some. Your guard will be in the way, but it serves a purpose.


Also one more question, the push stick can only go a few inches before the blade. However when I am taking the push block through the cut the push stick will be nowhere as it cannot go against the blade. In that case how is lateral pressure that the push stick was applying now applied?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Your push stick/plate is sacrificial. The blade should only be barely above your wood going through it. The push block/stick will continue over the blade until the cut is finished. That is why we were saying you will have to replace the block sooner or later. IN addition, you have a Tslide for cross cuts. DO NOT, ABSOLUTELY use in conjunction with the fence. Move the fence completely out of the way when cross cutting.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Your push stick/plate is sacrificial. The blade should only be barely above your wood going through it. The push block/stick will continue over the blade until the cut is finished. That is why we were saying you will have to replace the block sooner or later. IN addition, you have a Tslide for cross cuts. DO NOT, ABSOLUTELY use in conjunction with the fence. Move the fence completely out of the way when cross cutting.


I think my question is a bit different. I know the push block would go over the blade. I am asking about the push stick we use on our left hand as the push block on the right hand pushed the piece through. Doesn't the left hand push stick stop before the blade? My question is what applies lateral pressure through the cut?

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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

anonymous1977 said:


> Folks wish me luck. I have watched countless hours of table saw safety videos and now time has come to try it out. To help I have two neighbors stopping by tomorrow and day after to help guide me. I am hoping I should be good but still a bit anxious. Every video I see says this is the most dangerous equipment. I already have the attached push block made. I purchased two feather boards from harbor freight. I intend to keep the blade guard on. If my Skil saw comes with a riving knife I intend to keep that on too. I hope I am going to be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I don't know that saw but from the picture it looks to have a decent fence on it. One suggestion is to check all settings and adjustments when you unbox it. That would include the blade being square to the t-slots, mitre angle (or buy a separate guage, and fence. All of these will improve the quality of your cuts, but if the fence toes in at the far end, it can bind the piece. I would check it both locked and unlocked.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

You indicated you had featherboards. Why would you be using a push stick? Push sticks are mostly used to push wood through the blade, wood that is normally too thin for a push block. Keep your featherboard behind the blade, not parallel to it. You want nothing putting pressure on the wood from the left (Free) side into the blade.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> You indicated you had featherboards. Why would you be using a push stick? Push sticks are mostly used to push wood through the blade, wood that is normally too thin for a push block. Keep your featherboard behind the blade, not parallel to it. You want nothing putting pressure on the wood from the left (Free) side into the blade.


The way I have seen push stick used is for applying lateral pressure through left hand when right hand pushes the wood through.

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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

anonymous1977 said:


> I think my question is a bit different. I know the push block would go over the blade. I am asking about the push stick we use on our left hand as the push block on the right hand pushed the piece through. Doesn't the left hand push stick stop before the blade? My question is what applies lateral pressure through the cut?
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


Push stick as far left as possible without it contacting the blade . Check that position before beginning the cut . Do a dry run as in that pictured in one of my first posts where he is pushing in the wrong place with the stick close to the fence . I'm thinking you're putting too much emphasis is on lateral movement .


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## notnew2diy (Sep 1, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> The way I have seen push stick used is for applying lateral pressure through left hand when right hand pushes the wood through.


I have a Ryobi BT3000 table saw. Blade guard and riving knife removed.

I use a push stick in my right hand to move material thru the saw, long enough to extend past the blade. I use a push stick in my left hand, slight pressure on the cut board after the blade, to keep the material close to the fence. I don't worry about the material on the free/left side of the blade.

Tom Silva did an episode on ATOH on table saw safety. One item is to not use the fence when using the miter gauge. He set the fence, uses a stop block set to the proper length of cut. Once the miter is moved to cut the material, the fence is no longer part of the process.

Play safe...Don.


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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

A/1977,
My opinion here. If you are new to table saw use and apprehensive, you have no business making your first cuts with push sticks or featherboards. Yes, they move your hand away from the blade. But they also encourage the user to apply exaggerated pressure towards the blade. 

Find some scrap plywood and 1x lumber. Make a bunch of crosscuts using the miter gauge. Cut off a foot or so from a 1x6 or get a 1'x1' piece of scrap plywood. Move the fence a safe distance, 8-10 inches from the blade. Rip an inch off the short board. Use your hands to learn how to push the wood through. Once you get a feel for how the blade moves through the wood, move on to real projects, push sticks and more challenging cuts. 

Before you put a piece of wood to the saw, practice hitting the switch without looking for/at it. Can you turn the saw off with either hand? your knee? 

Have fun. Stay alert and careful. Not fearful.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

ratherbefishing said:


> Before you put a piece of wood to the saw, practice hitting the switch without looking for/at it


Worth repeating!
A month or so ago I was helping a friend, using his table saw. Both his and mine are Craftsman although his is more homeowner duty. My stop switch is on the right, his on the left. I kept using the wrong hand to try and turn his tablesaw off.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

I had someone stop by to make a few cuts and I practiced with him. My saw comes with three protective features - blade guard, riving knife and a pawl and I have engaged all the three of them. The way we did the cut was started using my hand on the left side and right side both and letting my hand guide the left side through the length of the cut but switching to a push stick midway on the right after the board enters the table surface. We had to do this because I had to feed the board in and can't use a push block or stick while feeding in. I have ordered a grippr style push block from milescraft and two featherboard as I feel it a bit risky to let my hand with three fingers hold it on the left side and guide it through. Also on the other end there was no outfeed support and since the guy was there he caught the woods. So I added a table like the attached. Is this ok because this is lower in height? I have another neighbor stopping by tomorrow. If I get the featherboard in time I will use it this time.









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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

IF your wood is wide, forget the feather boards and the push stick. Gee, you're getting wrapped up in the false safety of the two items so much, you may get hurt. Use common sense. Use the push board to push the board in the direction of the cut and over the blade. Repeating you DO NOT want to place a push stick or feather board in the area of the blade. It will put pressure on the wood and cause a kick back.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> IF your wood is wide, forget the feather boards and the push stick. Gee, you're getting wrapped up in the false safety of the two items so much, you may get hurt. Use common sense. Use the push board to push the board in the direction of the cut and over the blade. Repeating you DO NOT want to place a push stick or feather board in the area of the blade. It will put pressure on the wood and cause a kick back.


Hey that's what was surprising to me when the guy did the cut he did not use either for a wide board. So when do I use both of these? All videos on YouTube use both of these. I was not intending to put the featherboard in the area of the blade. All videos show it placed a few inches before. What are you referring to when you say push board in the direction of and over? Are you referring to the attached?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Yes, your pushboard follows the wood all the way through the blade until the cut completes. Hold it all still and hit the OFF button with your left hand or knee.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Yes, your pushboard follows the wood all the way through the blade until the cut completes. Hold it all still and hit the OFF button with your left hand or knee.


And left hand just use my hand instead of push stick or featherboard?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

If it is far enough from the blade, sure. Your "no hand" zone should extend a few inches to either side of the blade and from front to back of the saw just to be safe.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> If it is far enough from the blade, sure. Your "no hand" zone should extend a few inches to either side of the blade and from front to back of the saw just to be safe.


Thanks and if it is shorter distance wouldn't I use the push stick or featherboard on left?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Certainly. Just remember to keep forward/down pressure on your push block. The blade can cause the wood to rise and flip on you. BTDT.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Certainly. Just remember to keep forward/down pressure on your push block. The blade can cause the wood to rise and flip on you. BTDT.


Any thoughts on the outfeed table being lower in height?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Your wood will still "fall" causing potential problems at the blade if the weight is too much. You really want the outfeed table to be the same height as the table saw. It needs to be really stable, too. I fear that table may be too wobbly.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Your wood will still "fall" causing potential problems at the blade if the weight is too much. You really want the outfeed table to be the same height as the table saw. It needs to be really stable, too. I fear that table may be too wobbly.


Maybe I will put a couple of pieces of wood on the top of the table. It is ok from a stability perspective; it won't fall over.

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

If you build it up, use sheet goods, and not dimension lumber. The sheets will stay still better.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I use an adjustable roller stand at the end of my table saw.








Adjustable Roller Stand with Edge Guide


Amazing deals on this Adj Roller Stand W/ Edge Guide at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




www.harborfreight.com





mine doesn't have the edge guide


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

mark sr said:


> I use an adjustable roller stand at the end of my table saw.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks good. Can I use a saw horse? Also if I get the roller stand do I need one or two?

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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I have 2 roller stands but rarely use more than one at a time. 1 is used with my table saw and the other with my miter saw. I wouldn't think more than one would be needed unless you are ripping a full sheet of plywood .... and that is easier done with a skilsaw and saw horses.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

You can make or use wooden saw horses and screw in two standards on the sides with a cross piece at the height of the table saw so there is a smooth top to run your boards on.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> You can make or use wooden saw horses and screw in two standards on the sides with a cross piece at the height of the table saw so there is a smooth top to run your boards on.


I have two metal harbor freight saw horses. What do you mean by two standards?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Uprights attached at two places along the length of the saw horses, point up and a cross piece across the top at the height of your saw.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Uprights attached at two places along the length of the saw horses, point up and a cross piece across the top at the height of your saw.
> 
> View attachment 723094


What is the bottom piece that goes across the two saws? Can I just stack pieces of plywood boards on top of the two saw horses until they reach the height of the table saw?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Yes, you certainly can stack to the height of the saw. No problem.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I have an idea .
it's not time to be concerned with out feed tables and all that .Master using the saw and your confidence first . I feel too much emphasis is being place on keeping the material tight ( forced ) against the fence . Feather boards are just that , meaning apply pressure as light as a feather .

Using scrap wood like a 1 x 6 as an example , about a ft. long + or - a couple inches or so if possible , rip off 3 or 4 pieces about 1/4" wide with your left hand behind your back . _I'm serious_ .The push block you made will be great for practice pushing the material straight through . After that's accomplished and you not up tight then we can proceed with other cuts .


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

SeniorSitizen said:


> I have an idea .
> it's not time to be concerned with out feed tables and all that .Master using the saw and your confidence first . I feel too much emphasis is being place on keeping the material tight ( forced ) against the fence . Feather boards are just that , meaning apply pressure as light as a feather .
> 
> Using scrap wood like a 1 x 6 as an example , about a ft. long + or - a couple inches or so if possible , rip off 3 or 4 pieces about 1/4" wide with your left hand behind your back . _I'm serious_ .The push block you made will be great for practice pushing the material straight through . After that's accomplished and you not up tight then we can proceed with other cuts .


Much appreciated 

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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Made my own feather board.









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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

SeniorSitizen said:


> I have an idea .
> it's not time to be concerned with out feed tables and all that .Master using the saw and your confidence first . I feel too much emphasis is being place on keeping the material tight ( forced ) against the fence . Feather boards are just that , meaning apply pressure as light as a feather .
> 
> Using scrap wood like a 1 x 6 as an example , about a ft. long + or - a couple inches or so if possible , rip off 3 or 4 pieces about 1/4" wide with your left hand behind your back . _I'm serious_ .The push block you made will be great for practice pushing the material straight through . After that's accomplished and you not up tight then we can proceed with other cuts .


Wow with no support from left hand? I thought the purpose of left hand was to provide lateral support. In this case should I also remove the blade guard and let the blade cut a bit on the block?

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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

I may get hammered for this, but think this has become way too complicated and may end up making the process more dangerous. 

First, forget the featherboard for now. Featherboards are to help make accurate cuts. You don't need to worry about that right now. Btw, in 40 years using a table saw, I've never used one. Same with using the push stick to keep the board tight against the fence. You don't need it to make cuts safely; it may make using the saw less safe, because you're trying to use both hands and doing something different with each. Plus, if you push too hard, you're forcing the piece that will naturally be free into the saw blade. Use one hand and pay attention to where it is in relation to the blade.

Push blocks are for when you're ripping small pieces and your hand would be too close to the blade. Don't try that your first time using it. Get a good sized piece of plywood, set the fence as far over to the outside as it will go, stand just to the right of the fence, put your left hand on the back edge of the plywood halfway between the fence and blade, and push the plywood forward through the blade until it's off the table. You've made your first cut. Walk to the the left side of the saw and pull the piece you cut off away from the blade. Reset the fence in 1/2" and go again. The blade is not going to reach out and grab you; it stays in the same place all the time. Boards only kick back if you don't hold onto them or drop them on the blade. The free pieces on the left side of the blade will just sit there unless you move them. Don't move them into the blade and they won't be a problem. Again, in my 40 years of using a table saw, I've never had a free cutoff piece kick back.

Trying to worry about too many things at once is how people get hurt. Keep your hands out of the blade and don't let go of the piece between the blade and the fence until it's off the table. Accuracy will come later, after you respect the saw, but you no longer fear it. Same with making narrow rip cuts using the push block; save that for later.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Thank you. I have messaged you on one clarification for your post.

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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

That's a nice looking featherboard. It'd look even better if you'd cut the feathers on a table saw. ;^)


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Hey folks - I wanted to share an update and this is quite different from all videos I have seen and I want to get your thoughts. I had a neighbor who volunteered to spend some time with me for the table saw stop by today. And with him I successfully completed multiple cuts and I felt safe doing it his way. But his way was diametrically opposite to everything I have seen. He was also a former carpenter and his father as well. So I want to know if there is any issue with this.

The way he taught me to do this was to have the good side on the left side of the blade and the waste side on the right side of the blade and against the fence. This way not only am I standing to the left of the blade but both my hands which includes the guiding hand and the pushing hand are on the left side instead of the pushing hand being on the right of the blade between the blade and the fence as shown in all videos. I felt extremely safe doing this way but I just have a doubt because none of the videos talk about this way of doing it. He also told me about a 4 inch rule where if something is less that 4 inches we need to be careful and not use our fingers but rather a push stick. For anything larger, hands or push block can be used. We also tried using a featherboard and the cut came out nicely. This also helped me use my knee to kick the power button once the cut was made. He said he also has a sharpie line marking the half of the blade on the table so that he knows when he can stop pushing or guiding in the cut.

What are your thoughts?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

I don't understand his theory. The waste should be on the free (left) side of the blade. The accurate cut will be between the blade and the fence. Keep your push item on the accurate cut wood until it clears the blade. The waste part will fall away from the blade.


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## zircon (Sep 24, 2007)

It’s wrong because instead of putting pressure against the fence, the pressure is against the left side of the blade especially near the end of the cut and can result in kickback.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

zircon said:


> It’s wrong because instead of putting pressure against the fence, the pressure is against the left side of the blade especially near the end of the cut and can result in kickback.


Towards the end he is not applying pressure. He is just guiding it.

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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> I don't understand his theory. The waste should be on the free (left) side of the blade. The accurate cut will be between the blade and the fence. Keep your push item on the accurate cut wood until it clears the blade. The waste part will fall away from the blade.


So help me understand something. If I do the way we have discussed as opposed to his isn't my hand directly in the way of kickback because although I stand a bit to the left I have to extend over the blade with my right hand to push the piece through? And do you let the left and right pieces fall or go to an outfeed?

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

The left piece will NOT kick back. IF you have your featherboard too tight it will bind. That's why I don't use featherboards except in a few occasions. His method, you are gambling on the left board being straight. I don't gamble. Your fence is set to the right of the blade, so using that measurement gives you the accurate cut. Your hand is on top of the push block and keeping kick back from happening. Kickback only happens between the blade and fence, and you are guiding that piece with the block.
I thought of something. Is he setting your fence to the left of the blade???? If so, you are limiting your cuts. Put the fence on the right side of the blade.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> The left piece will NOT kick back. IF you have your featherboard too tight it will bind. That's why I don't use featherboards except in a few occasions. His method, you are gambling on the left board being straight. I don't gamble. Your fence is set to the right of the blade, so using that measurement gives you the accurate cut. Your hand is on top of the push block and keeping kick back from happening. Kickback only happens between the blade and fence, and you are guiding that piece with the block.
> I thought of something. Is he setting your fence to the left of the blade???? If so, you are limiting your cuts. Put the fence on the right side of the blade.


Fence was on right. Featherboard usually ends before blade starts.

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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

_Been taken for the ride of your forum life ._


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

SeniorSitizen said:


> _Been taken for the ride of your forum life ._


Folks rightly pointed out the mistakes in the technique my neighbor demonstrated. And I also got the same feedback from woodworking community on Facebook. So I am going to revert to what you guys taught me here and give it a go again tomorrow. I am still a bit apprehensive about your one hand technique  

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> I am still a bit apprehensive about your one hand technique


Why? You don't want two forces on the wood. One force forward through the blade. The push block will hold it against the fence. You put that second hand up there and you stand a chance of kick back on the whole board.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

chandler48 said:


> Why? You don't want two forces on the wood. One force forward through the blade. The push block will hold it against the fence. You put that second hand up there and you stand a chance of kick back on the whole board.


Using 2 forces also requires 2 hands, making it more difficult to focus on doing it right. I only use one hand, unless I'm ripping a 4x8 sheet down the middle, and then both hands are still on the piece that's going to the right of the blade.

As I said, pretty much only pieces wedged between the fence and the blade that you're not holding onto and pushing through are going to kick back. As long as you have a good grip on it, at worst it may bind up. If that happens, you use your free hand to turn off the saw and then take the piece off the table.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

anonymous1977 said:


> I am still a bit apprehensive about your one hand technique
> 
> Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


You won't know until you try it , just like moving the push stick to the left of the fence as far as possible without coming in contact with the blade won't know that is a benefit until it's tried .


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Why? You don't want two forces on the wood. One force forward through the blade. The push block will hold it against the fence. You put that second hand up there and you stand a chance of kick back on the whole board.


Are you saying you don't use your left hand to guide the piece?Every video I have seen shows the left hand pushing the piece laterally before the blade.

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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

SeniorSitizen said:


> You won't know until you try it , just like moving the push stick to the left of the fence as far as possible without coming in contact with the blade won't know that is a benefit until it's tried .


Are you saying you don't use the left hand to guide the piece? Every video I have seen shows the left hand pushing the piece laterally before the blade.

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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> Are you saying you don't use your left hand to guide the piece?Every video I have seen shows the left hand pushing the piece laterally before the blade.


Certainly I do, but when the wood gets into the imaginary DANGER zone I have in my mind, the left hands is out of the way. Now, lets clarify sheet goods from dimension lumber. I do guide the sheet goods through with my left hand, but the hand is way out of the danger zone. Dimension lumber not so. Both hands are used until the wood is balanced on the table. Then the push stick or block rules.


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

chandler48 said:


> Certainly I do, but when the wood gets into the imaginary DANGER zone I have in my mind, the left hands is out of the way. Now, lets clarify sheet goods from dimension lumber. I do guide the sheet goods through with my left hand, but the hand is way out of the danger zone. Dimension lumber not so. Both hands are used until the wood is balanced on the table. Then the push stick or block rules.


Correct this is what I thought. This is what I am doing. I have corrected my technique to use the finish side between the blade and fence based on all your comments. For plywood boards or MDF, I would use push stick or block on right side of blade and take it through the cut and push it through. For the left side I start feeding with my hand and keep it at the edge. I have not tried dimensional lumber.

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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Today was a great day. I went to home Depot and asked them to cut one 8 foot sheet of plywood into four 2feet by 4 feet sections. I brought them home and ripped them into French cleats for my tool storage. It went great and I took all precautions. Shared the picture of the cleats below as well as a volcanic dust collector separator I built. The bucket is about 25 pct full.
















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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Very good !!


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## notnew2diy (Sep 1, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> volcanic dust collector separator


I need to build a cart for my dust cyclone.
I like your idea....Don


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

notnew2diy said:


> I need to build a cart for my dust cyclone.
> I like your idea....Don


Right here.






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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Thanks for all the advise on this thread. I started using the table saw and now I realize what I have been missing. I started reorganizing my garage and used the table saw, miter saw and circular saw as I go through the process of adding French cleats. I find all three of them indispensable. I have gotten the hang of using the table saw now and wanted to share some pictures. Also used my diy feather board and push block for many cuts.






























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## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

It looks like you're having fun with your new tools. And, inspiring me to get started on my French cleat wall. As soon as I finish these Christmas presents.....


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

anonymous1977 said:


> I find all three of them indispensable


You'll find that true of each new tool you buy. I'm on my 2nd table saw - couldn't be without one when my first one died. I bought my miter saw after the first table saw and couldn't believe I had waited.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Looks like you are off to an excellent start.

Stay safe and Merry Christmas 🎄


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## anonymous1977 (Jul 4, 2019)

Project completed.
















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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

Nice job


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