# Replacing Sheetrock Window Trim with Wood - NEWB Alert - Please Help!



## ratherbefishing (Jan 13, 2011)

I don't know the answers to all your questions, but I'll take a stab at a few.
I'd expect the rough opening to be behind the sheetrock. I think I'd drive a finish nail in there first, to check. 2x6 walls?
If the existing jamb extensions are 'a little less than 4"', you'll have to rip 1x6, as 1x4s are only 3/4 x 3 1/2.
The sheetrock is probably 1/2 thick, so if you use 1x stock for the jambs, the reveal at the frame will change.
It looks like the window in the pic is kinda close to a corner. Casing width may be a challenge.


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## jasonreck71 (Jan 14, 2012)

I would also bet good money you have metal corner bead on there, so just be aware that you will most likely be tearing that out also...But ratherbefishing hot the highlights the way I would have


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## jasonreck71 (Jan 14, 2012)

Oh yeah and I am sure you thought about this but how will the wood vs sheetrock effect your blinds fitting in the window


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Why replace the sheetrock? just put your trim over it. Unless it is in bad shape.


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## Mark79 (Jan 22, 2012)

Thanks for the answers so far. I thought I'd have to replace the sheetrock because there is only 1/4" of the window frame reveal left so I would not have room to add more material on top of the sheetrock. This window (and 2 others) are in a breakfast nook/bay window type area and they shortest distance from the sheetrock edge to the corner is about 3.5" so I think I'd probably have to stick to 3" casing at the very max but probably less. The other windows are a lot more wide open and I will not have the same limitations but I guess they should all match. I didn't even think about the blinds, but I think there is still enough room even if I add 1/4" to each side. Is there material for the jambs that is not as thick as 3/4" but maybe 1/2" like the sheetrock I would be removing?


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## 12penny (Nov 21, 2008)

hey mark...I'd just add casing around the opening and paint it all white. Once painted you wont be able to tell if thats drywall or pine.

May take a little finagiling because drywall corners have a steel bead and an abundance of joint compound.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

12penny said:


> hey mark...I'd just add casing around the opening and paint it all white. Once painted you wont be able to tell if thats drywall or pine.
> 
> May take a little finagiling because drywall corners have a steel bead and an abundance of joint compound.


Yeah that's what I meant. You just said it way better:thumbup:

If you remove the sheetrock (I wouldn't) you could go with a 1/2" plywood, use iron on edging if you are staining, or just Spackle the edge if you are painting.


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