# replace12" ceiling tile with drywall on dropped



## bjlffire (Oct 19, 2009)

I have an 11' x 13' kithen, had 12' ceiling. Somtime 25-30+ years ago
ceiling was dropped to 9' with 2x4's on 24" centers with 1x2 gridwork for the 12" tiles. Can I take down the square tiles and hang drywall on the gridwork?


Thanks.


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

Maybe. If in doubt of the capability of the grid to hold the additional weight, have it checked by a professional.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

If the grid was installed correctly it will hold the drywall. But how would you attach drywall to this without it pushing up. It is normally hung from the ceiling and has no support except it's own weight from being pushed upward.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

> Can I take down the square tiles and hang drywall on the gridwork?



are you speaking of using drywall and cutting tiles from that or just using the gridwork as a support for the drywall?

If the tiles idea, I see no problem with it. There are tiles made of drywall on the market so I cannot see how you making your own would be any different.

if you are speaking of screwing drywall to the underside of the grid:

there is a system out there that does just this but I believe it is heavier than actual ceiling grid. It must be able to retain the screw without pulling out at the weight of the rock bears down and moves and wiggles through the years.


so, which installation style were you speaking of?


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

which way do the 2x4 span? if there is no center support to ceiling above I think it will at very least sag


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

tpolk said:


> which way do the 2x4 span? if there is no center support to ceiling above I think it will at very least sag


You think? Or are you just guessing? :laughing:


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

nap said:


> If the tiles idea, I see no problem with it. There are tiles made of drywall on the market so I cannot see how you making your own would be any different.


What ceiling tiles are on the market that are made of drywall?


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

I/m sure you have span charts handy show me why it would not sag


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

2x4 ceiling joists 24" OC only to L180 even if structural grade will span less then 9'

#2 grade & L360 brings it in under 7' span

I didn't even need a span chart to know it was too far for 2x4's

I would reinforce the support of the 2x4's & use those if level


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

sdsester said:


> What ceiling tiles are on the market that are made of drywall?


There are gypsum panels made to drop in suspended ceiling grid. I don't think that is the type of grid the OP is describing though.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

sdsester said:


> What ceiling tiles are on the market that are made of drywall?


it's a vinyl coated and generally used in clean rooms and food prep areas.


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## bjlffire (Oct 19, 2009)

#1- Replace with 4x8 or 4x12 sheets of drywall.
#2- they are true 2x4's
#3- I was planning on using 3' screws to go through the 1by and into the 2x4

#4 I thought about a 2x4 or 6 running perpendicular to the 2x4's fastened to true ceiling with drop down supports for mid span of the 2x4's

#5- 2x4's run width 11' not 13
#6- Drywall to run lenth 13'

thanks


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Bj,
What you are thinking may work. But if it were me, I would just tear out the old, and frame it with 2 x 6's on 16" centers. You could do that in about the same time as trying to reinforce the present framing. Then you don't need 3" screws and the like. It would be a normal installation. Use the old 2 x 4's for something else, maybe a new workbench or something.
Mike Hawkins


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I'd be tempted to run the 2x6 down the middle & put in support (cables ?) to the ceiling above

I'd buy 12' long drywall & cut it to the 11' width of the room

This is one of those things that seeing it in person can make all the difference in what you do


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## bjlffire (Oct 19, 2009)

Here are a couple of pic's


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Unless I am not seeing something in the photos, those too long to start 2x4s are just attached with a couple framing nails on the ends? No hangers? You really don't want to hang a drywall ceiling from them. One dangerous ceiling you have in mind!:no:

I would take the suggestion to reframe with 2x6. Or shift thinking to some other lightweight ceiling tile or suspended ceiling. Some of them don't look so bad if you paint them.

The length of screws you are thinking will not help this situation. The weight of the drywall will just be too heavy for this framing as shown.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

you think or are you just guessing? :laughing:


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

tpolk said:


> you think or are you just guessing? :laughing:


I always guess. It is easier and less stressful than thinking. And thinking is the enemy of perfection. 

But come on, don't be cynical. Good 16p steel nails are really, really strong! And I bet there are two in each end of those 2x4s in the pic? Why not give them a chance. 

Found this site that offers small sized hard hats for women and children. Just in case. :laughing:

http://www.tasco-safety.com/hhats/msa-hard-hats.html#466354

And what woman wouldn't love a properly fitting hard hat for her and the kids and maybe a countertop appliance for Christsmas?


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

I would go with Dave's suggestion of tie wires mid span. Commercial drywall ceilings are hung from channels suspended by tie wires all the time, and the sheets are screwed to stuff a lot lighter than your 2x4s.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yeah, if it were me I wouldn't do it without the center support


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You would be comfortable having your family living under it with just tie wires and 16p nails holding the ends?


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Tie wire when done correctly which is what I mentioned will hold up plenty of weight. The weight of a typical commercial retail space is done this way and is far greater in weight than an residential ceiling. The ties are held in place with an eye bolt lag anchor. No nails are involved.


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## [email protected] (Mar 10, 2009)

bjlffire said:


> #1- Replace with 4x8 or 4x12 sheets of drywall.
> #2- they are true 2x4's
> #3- I was planning on using 3' screws to go through the 1by and into the 2x4
> 
> ...


I came over from Drywall talk to poke my head in. Just my .02, but your idea is pretty good, same thing i'd suggest: Using 2x4 or 6 stiff back above the 2x4's to stiffen it up, and tie it up to old ceiling somehow. Maybe knock a hole in the old ceiling and face nail a 2x that also cacthes the stiff back and new ceiling.

Leave the old strapping or grid and go over it when new 14's cut to 13' or just use 8's, you'll have butts, but 13' of board may too hard to handle.:thumbsup: We usually nail perimeters and screw the fields 12" on center. Good luck, let us know how it turns out!

PS: #
3" screws wouldn't be necessary, the standard 1 1/4" coarse thread are okay if your grid is well secured, if not 2" would be plenty, would still penetrate by 3/4", code is 5/8". And 3" screws will have a much bigger bugle and be harder to coat.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Bob Mariani said:


> Tie wire when done correctly which is what I mentioned will hold up plenty of weight. The weight of a typical commercial retail space is done this way and is far greater in weight than an residential ceiling. The ties are held in place with an eye bolt lag anchor. No nails are involved.


And a typical homeowner or DIYer could accomplish this how crawling around a 24OC 2x4 ceiling hung in place with, hopefully two nails holding the ends in place? 

Use the nice 2x4s to build a drop dead gorgeous house for the dog or a playhouse for any little girls in the family.

Reframe it and do it right. It is a residence, not a commercial structure. Hanging things like a structured ceiling from wire here in a residence will not match code or pass inspection. And all the wire in the World will not get 24OC past inspection for a drywalled ceiling.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Commercial standards are higher than residential. So I cannot see why you think this would not pass inspection. Same with 24"OC.... still meets code. You just need to use 5/8" drywall if the studs are on 24" centers.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

Bob Mariani said:


> Commercial standards are higher than residential. So I cannot see why you think this would not pass inspection. Same with 24"OC.... still meets code. You just need to use 5/8" drywall if the studs are on 24" centers.


So tell the homeowner DIYer what tools he will need to climb around in 3' of clearance to anchor this ceiling. And what fasteners? Wire gauge? How many inches on center? You are not suggesting he just screw something in mid span are you?

Cost.

Come on guys, would he not be better just demolishing the current ceiling, biting the bullet and framing with 2x6? Attached with real ceiling joist hangers? 

What could he possibly be saving with your tie wire approach? And think of what he is risking if he does not do it right. 

And I am sorry and bless them, but I could never get a long span 2x4 ceiling, nailed in with only 16p steel at the ends, and even supported with tie wire past an inspector here for a residence with 5/8 drywall hanging on it.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

It appears you may have 12"x12" "staple up" tile installed on 1"x4"s on 12" centers, which were used as "strapping". The drywall is quite a bit heavier than the acoustical tiles and would likely sag with the 2"x4"s on 24" centers. You could possibly add hanger wires for support as long as they are anchored solidly into the framing members of the original ceiling. Some type of framing (a "cat walk") down the center out of 2"x6" would help. Make sure the 1"x's are also fastened securely to the 2"x4"s. I don't think you need to tear out the existing framing unless there's a problem with it being uneven or the like. Then it might be easier to start over than straighten it out....


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## [email protected] (Mar 10, 2009)

In order to get the 2x above the drop ceiling, he may have to cut the strapping back at one joist bay. Still less work that tearing it all out.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yeah the 2x6 in the middle & use a wire to the old framing
As stated the key is making sure that support wire is supported directly by the framing above the old ceiling
They have lag bolt with an eye at the end
Something like this but a threaded lag

If the existing framing is level no need to tear it out, it can be quite a challenge to put up new framing 9' over head


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

If you look in the area where the suspended ceiling material is, they have a lag screw that is flattened on the end with a hole to thread your hanger wire through. There's even a special driver to chuck into your drill to install them. I've seen them at both HD & Lowes.....


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