# Maytag Plus



## Techman2006 (Nov 21, 2006)

My Maytag msd2556aew refrigerator makes a loud buzzing sound like a relay chatter and it is coming from inside in the upper area around the temperature slide controls.Is this normal ?.


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## jeff1 (Dec 17, 2003)

Hi,



> refrigerator makes a loud buzzing sound like a relay chatter and it is coming from inside in the upper area around the temperature slide controls


Have seen and heard the adaptive defrost control board chatter and vibrate...









Adaptive defrost control board

#13...










jeff.


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## electronics engineer (Dec 12, 2007)

*MayTag side by side repair, buzzing or warm refer side*



Techman2006 said:


> My Maytag msd2556aew refrigerator makes a loud buzzing sound like a relay chatter and it is coming from inside in the upper area around the temperature slide controls.Is this normal ?.


My maytag had the same problem. You can fix this yourself for 60cents or 60 dollars. A repairman is going to be well over 100 dollars. I'll explain the problem and the solution briefly:

Problem: Buzzing sound coming from top of refer side near controls or no buzzing sound but refer wont get cold and freezer is freezing cold.

Solution: The problem is the Adaptive Defrost Control Board as mentioned in this link. You can easily replace that module yourself ~$60US. You can get it at most appliance repair stores (because they fail alot). You can also fix your bad module for ~60cents if you are handy with a soldering iron. I analyzed the failure and it is due to a marginal design of the circuitry on that module. The module has a relay (the large square component) and that is what is buzzing. But, it is not the faulty component. Beware that the new replacement module you may buy also has the marginal design flaw and will fail with a couple of years. Here is what you need to do:

There is an electrolytic capacitor on the module, usually blue or black, looks like a small rectangular cylinder. It may have two leads coming out of the bottom or two leads coming out of the ends. It has markings on it: 22uf 63V. This is the bad component. Replace it with a 22uf 100v capacitor, do not use another 63V capacitor or it will fail again in a couple of years. Before removing the old capacitor, notice that it will have a polarization marking, usually a + or a - sign. You must insert the replacement 22uf 100v capacitor in the proper polarized position or it will fail very soon, usually within minutes. It may even pop or burn, so make sure you get the polarity correct. You can get the new capacitor at most electronic stores. Do not use higher than 22uf 100v because the part is physically larger and difficult to mount on the board.

Why does it fail? The 22uf 63v capacitor is used in a circuit that reduces the incoming 120VAC to a lower DC voltage used by the circuitry on the board. The circuit configuration is a half-wave rectifier. That means that half of 120VAC (which is 60VAC) is filtered by that capacitor. That leaves only 3VAC of margin before you are exceeding the capacitors rating. Well, every time there is a surge of AC beyond the 3VAC rating, the capacitor has to absorbe it. Eventually, the capacitor breaks down. If the capacitor shorts out, you get the freezing freezer and warm refer. If the capacitor opens up, the get the relay buzzing sound and possibly a warm refer.

By using a 100v capacitor rating, you have increased the margin to 40VAC and the capacitor will last as long as the refrigerator. Beware that if you buy a replacement module, it will have the same 63v capacitor and it will fail within a couple of years. To be absolutely sure you will fix the problem, buy the replacement module and replace the capacitor on the new module before you install it.

One last warning! You must unplug your refridgerator before you work on this module because of the presence of 120VAC, you will get electricuted if you work on the unit while it is plugged in. Be smart, unplug the AC first!.

Also, if you had the warm refer problem, it would be wise to empty the freezer side, remove the plastic cover inside the freezer on the back wall and use a hair dryer to defrost all of the ice off of the coils. Replace the repaired Adaptive Defrost contol board and make all electrical reconnections before you plug the AC back in.

Good luck.
engineer..


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