# Kenmore Dishwasher Control Board and Soap Dispenser solenoid (not working) issues



## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

I have been trying to troubleshoot why the soap dispenser door will not open when our Kenmore Dishwasher (Ultra Wash model # 665.17352301) is run. Upon taking the door off, there were obvious signs of excessive heat on the existing dispenser door solenoid (brown scorch marks, melted plastic cover stuck to solenoid). I went ahead and bought another used soap dispenser panel. The resistance on that solenoid was 285 ohms. As I understand it, 280-340 ohms is the proper range for these solenoids. The other one that was burnt was registering no resistance. 

This replacement did not fix the problem so I moved to the control board and found some signs of burning there so I replaced that with another used control board. I am buying affordable used parts because we are probably going to replace this dishwasher within the next 1-2 years in a kitchen remodel so don't want to spend a lot on new parts or get a new one right now that may not match everything else. The replacement board looked good. Installed it tonight and turned on dishwasher only to hear a noticeable "POP" come from the control panel. Dispenser door still did not open and inspection of the replacement control board (part # 8557773) found a burnt spot in the same exact area as the older control board (shown in the picture at Q2 on the circuit board).

Added info - all basic problems (improper dish arrangements, caked up soap, etc.) and mechanical issues with the dispenser were checked and ruled out. One thing I am not sure about is which blue wire goes on which prong for the solenoid (see pic of solenoid). My wife switched out the other dispenser panel when I was busy with other things and did not note the wire locations. I am not sure it matters but want to disclose any uncertainties here.

Not sure what is going on. Dishwasher works fine otherwise but this simple dispenser door is becoming a real pain. Continuity of the blue wires to the solenoid checked out and I see no areas of damage at the connecting points. The obvious concern is why the control board is doing this. I will note here also that about a year ago, there was a lot of buzzing coming from the panel area during the first 10-20 mins of running the washer. I ignored it and it eventually went away so I forgot about it but I now think that was the control board going on the fritz. Replacing the board should have corrected it but something else is frying what I think is a capacitor of some kind at Q2 on the circuit board and (I am assuming) then not allowing the dispenser solenoid to function. I would appreciate any assistance. Thanks


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Maybe you have a short somewhere that's causing that one spot on the control board to blow. If you don't want to spend big money on a new d/w yet, I don't know that I'd throw any more money at this one. Just toss the detergent in the floor of the d/w when you run a load.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I went thru similar on a different model and it was moisture had corroded the material in the flat computer type cable to the far left on the board. I bought used washer with a control *knob *that has lasted longer than the new one did.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Yeah, I thought about suggesting a used d/w, but those can be a crapshoot too—never know why someone is getting rid of a used appliance; have to rely on seller's honesty.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

huesmann said:


> Yeah, I thought about suggesting a used d/w, but those can be a crapshoot too—never know why someone is getting rid of a used appliance; have to rely on seller's honesty.


Mine was made by Maytag and they couldn't tell me if it was the board or the computer or both. The two new would have been $450. Used machine was $100. I figured I could buy 3 used and still be ahead. :biggrin2:And i got lucky with the first.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

Yeah, we had been just tossing in the detergent pack at the beginning for a couple years now but I recently had to replace the water inlet valve that was leaking and thought I would take care of the other issue with the dispenser door. I now regret getting this involved with it!

I did take out the control board and looked at the ribbon. No signs of corrosion but there was something that looked like a spot of blue ink smeared on one of the circuit lines. It took some effort to get it off but it is now gone. Not sure if that was the problem. I tried testing it again but with that control board now having a burnt/broken part, I don't think I can successfully do any further testing without replacing it. 

I attached some before and after pics with the ribbon and there is a close up of the broken prong on that control board. Any idea what that little black part at Q2 on the circuit board is called?


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## RAL238 (May 20, 2018)

Eagle One said:


> Any idea what that little black part at Q2 on the circuit board is called?


Components that begin with the letter Q are usually transistors or other types of semiconductor components. 

In this case, a MAC 97A8 is a triac. 

Datasheet: https://store.comet.bg/download-file.php?id=3870

https://www.amazon.com/IndustrialField-50pcs-MAC97A8-Triacs-TRIAC/dp/B082H2YYHR

Something, such as a short, or perhaps another bad component, is causing the triac to burn up. You need to find the cause of the problem before you replace it.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

Thanks for all the comments on this. I took it apart again but couldn't find any signs of shorted wires or anything else that looked suspicious. Not sure why it is only affecting the soap dispenser door solenoid from working. It is not in my nature to give up on things like this but I have to throw in the towel since the dishwasher works otherwise and I don't want to cause any 'new' issues by tinkering too much. Simply dropping the detergent pack into the dishwasher before closing the door is a simple solution and the performance, while maybe not optimal, is sufficient.


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## Eagle One (Feb 11, 2011)

I just want to follow up with additional info that might help someone. I never did get the soap dispenser to work and I left the replacement (used) control panel in there. The dishwasher still worked fine for a while but recently it failed to even start. Pushing the start button did absoultely nothing... no noise or anything. I had kept the original control board that came with the dishwasher and decided to swap it out and see if I could get it running again. Well, it worked! But, only for a couple weeks and then....same thing...no reaction to the start button. I took apart the entire button panel and saw nothing wrong so I gave up on it. I almost bought a new one for $500 but we ended up getting a used one locally for $50 since we are not yet ready to do the kitchen remodel. 

Now, here is the important info to note. While I was replacing the old one, I noticed some corrosion on the household wiring when I disconnected it, especially on the neutral wire. Not saying this caused any weird electrical issues, but I wish I would have looked at that before. So, if you start having some electrical problems, first check the power connectins, clean them up and see if that helps. Not sure it will, but it is much easier to do since it is often easily accessible once you pull off the lower panel cover. Also, don't forget to turn the power off at the circuit breaker first before examining the wires.


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