# Cutting fence post caps



## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

I want to cut pyramid style tops on all four sides of 6x6 posts. What size circular saw would I need to complete the 45 degree cuts?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

do you want it to come to a point on top or will there be a flat area at the top?


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Point


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## Underdog (Sep 4, 2009)

If your post is actually 5.5", then the formula is (5.5"/2)*(2^.5) which is roughly a 3.9" cut at 45 degrees. 

Why not just buy the premade post caps?


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Need to match the developer and that's what they've done in the area. Some are actually 6" bang on and others vary to 5 3/4".


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Umm.. You would need a saw that would go through 3 7/8 on a 45 degree angle.. So your answer would be a 15'' circular saw.
Or you could just use a regular 7 1/4 circular saw and try and skillfully sawzall the rest.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Star cut with 7&1/4" circular saw, finish with hand saw, Maybe touch up with belt sander


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

you could measure down 2 3/4" from the post top and make straight lines all the way around the post and then set a skilsaw at maximum depth on a 45 degree angle and cut all 4 sides. Finish the rest of the cut using a sawzall with a metal blade or a blade with small teeth.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

Everyone,

I screwed up with my degree measurement. It actually appears to be a 25 degree cut. I attempted using a 7 1/4" circular saw on a scrap piece and it leaves a symmetrical 1 1/2" square so what size saw would I be looking at to fully complete the cut?

I could possibly finish the cut by hand or with a reciprocating saw but I have over 20 of these to do so I don't mind renting a larger saw to make life easier(and the result cleaner). Looking at the developer's posts, they seem to have a saw that leaves less than 1/4", looks like a nipple on top.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

25 degree angle on a 6x6 would be a run of 2 3/4'' a rise of 1 5/16'' which would = a diagonal of 3 1/16''.. I think a 12'' circular saw would work.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

CopperClad said:


> 25 degree angle on a 6x6 would be a run of 2 3/4'' a rise of 1 5/16'' which would = a diagonal of 3 1/16''.. I think a 12'' circular saw would work.


Could you calculate that for a 10" saw? I can rent a 10" alot easier than a 12". If it's within a 1/4" I can live with that.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Nope sorry. I can't calculate it. A 10'' saw can only cut through 2 3/4'' on a 45 degree angle.. I believe it can cut a 4x4 post on a straight cut from memory.. So with that being said........... Sure. I think you can do it with a 10''.. If it doesn't go all the way through it will leave the nipple effect it seems that other posts in your area have. So do it ! Rent it ! :thumbsup:


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

if you have to rent a saw, how about renting a miter saw. set up a bench and set the saw to 45 degrees. flip the post for each cut, done.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Use a 7 ¼” saw and finish with a Sawzall or hand saw as previously mentioned.

That can be a dangerous cut if your not well familiar and comfortable with a beam saw.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

kwikfishron said:


> Use a 7 ¼” saw and finish with a Sawzall or hand saw.
> 
> That can be a dangerous cut if your not well familiar and comfortable with a beam saw.


Yup, and it won't take you near as much time as you might imagine; in less time than you would spend chasing down a saw that you may or may not be familiar with, you can run though them with your circular saw, finish them up with your hand saw, and continue on.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

what they said:thumbsup:


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

hand drive said:


> if you have to rent a saw, how about renting a miter saw. set up a bench and set the saw to 45 degrees. flip the post for each cut, done.


The posts are already set, they are being cut in place.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> Use a 7 ¼” saw and finish with a Sawzall or hand saw as previously mentioned.
> 
> That can be a dangerous cut if your not well familiar and comfortable with a beam saw.


I don't want to sound ignorant but if I'm running the saw against a jig how is it any more dangerous than using a 7 1/4"?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

n0c7 said:


> I don't want to sound ignorant but if I'm running the saw against a jig how is it any more dangerous than using a 7 1/4"?


Those big saws have a lot of torque and are heavy, close to 20lbs for a 10” and 30 for the 16”.

You’re holding it up at face level trying to make precision horizontal cuts, if the saw binds up I hope you’re capable of controlling it, because you sure can’t just let go. 

Being confined to a jig actually increases the chances of binding up in your case btw.

I don’t know you, your skill level or anything else but just asking these questions has me concerned. 

I certainly would never hand a beam saw to a rookie and send him loose on what you’re wanting to do.

Others here say go for the big saw and I’m not saying not to, just be aware.


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

kwikfishron said:


> Those big saws have a lot of torque and are heavy, close to 20lbs for a 10” and 30 for the 16”.
> 
> You’re holding it up at face level trying to make precision horizontal cuts, if the saw binds up I hope you’re capable of controlling it, because you sure can’t just let go.
> 
> ...


I appreciate your concern for safety. I have 8 years of DIY experience in too many areas to mention, jack of all trades type of thing. I have never needed a circular saw larger than 7 1/4" until now since I usually have worked with 4x4 lumber.

I rented the 10 1/4" Makita and I have to say while it was heavy, I actually felt like I had more control since you HAVE to use two hands on it compared to the 6 1/2"'s and 7 1/4"s out there. It did the cuts I wanted and I'm satisfied with the results.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Sweet ! It might be the glare of the sun on your photo , but I don't see the nipple . :laughing:


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

CopperClad said:


> Sweet ! It might be the glare of the sun on your photo , but I don't see the nipple . :laughing:


 funny guy. This saw actually went a bit deeper and squared it off it seems.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Well I'm not a circular saw scientist??? How far will a 10'' saw go on a 25 degree angle? I don't own a 10'' circular saw, I just remember using one cutting 4x4 post in one pass. Was it too big of a saw for the job? Knowledge is power, and I'm all about gaining it. :thumbsup:


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## Klahti (Jul 14, 2012)

Your top is now untreated, some clear stain or sealer from the weather may be in order, nice cuts btw! Did you use a guide nailed to the posts or freehand?


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Thanks for the pics and for the feedback.
What did you use for a saw guide?
Clamped on speed square?


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Clamped on speed square would work.. But you would have to move it 4 times per post.. I would have built a 2x4 box to fit over the 6x6 post and had 2 bessey clamps angled towards the bottom and not have to move anything for each post. yeah.. what jig did you have ?


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

I'm retreating all of them with green end cut today.

I built a jig out of 2x2s which I slid down the post, leveled and screwed into two sides. The distance from the edge of the fence to the beginning of the angled cut is supposed to be 4" so by using the 2x2s(actually 1 1/2") and adding the width of the saw guard being 2 1/2" I got my 4".


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## n0c7 (May 15, 2008)

CopperClad said:


> Well I'm not a circular saw scientist??? How far will a 10'' saw go on a 25 degree angle? I don't own a 10'' circular saw, I just remember using one cutting 4x4 post in one pass. Was it too big of a saw for the job? Knowledge is power, and I'm all about gaining it. :thumbsup:


The saw is labeled as a 10 1/4". At 25 degrees it measures 3 1/2" from the edge of the guard to the tip of the blade. At 0 degree's it measures 3 3/4".


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