# 1/2" or 5/8" drywall in kitchen behind fridge and ceiling?



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Are you in a Condo or multi family unit? That is typically when 5/8 is used. Or on Garage walls when a fire rating needs to be provided.
Ceilings can be 5/8 if the truss/rafter spacing is 24 inch, too.

Best to use whatever you need so you match up the neighbouring pieces. It won't look good having 2 different thicknesses on the same wall/ceiling. Difficult to mud properly.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

jlhaslip said:


> Are you in a Condo or multi family unit? That is typically when 5/8 is used. Or on Garage walls when a fire rating needs to be provided.
> Ceilings can be 5/8 if the truss/rafter spacing is 24 inch, too.
> 
> Best to use whatever you need so you match up the neighbouring pieces. It won't look good having 2 different thicknesses on the same wall/ceiling. Difficult to mud properly.



Yep, I'm in a condo unit. Bottom floor so there's a neighbor above with the exact same layout. So would it be best to try to identify what, if any pieces are not 5/8" even if it's tedious? Is it likely that it was 1/2" drywall that was on the wall right behind where the fridge was (as well as the adjacent wall)? I'll check it again and see if I can get some more 'exact' measurements...

Here are more pictures with a ruler:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RZNUmjdWHjuISw6x1

Actually, now that I look at the pieces I measured that show 1/2" thickness, those appear to be the sticking-out *ends* of the existing 1/2" drywall that's in the void space above the ceiling. It doesn't look like these parts were actually cut at all. These parts would also not be exposed because the cabinetry would have been covering everything. Out of all the exposed areas, it looks like there is only one really small section of 1/2" drywall that was cut away (and the cut was made pretty flush too) - this section is maybe 12"x6"...? I'm thinking that could just be filled with 5/8" and it likely wouldn't be noticeable.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

jplee3 said:


> Yep, I'm in a condo unit. Bottom floor so there's a neighbor above with the exact same layout. So would it be best to try to identify what, if any pieces are not 5/8" even if it's tedious? Is it likely that it was 1/2" drywall that was on the wall right behind where the fridge was (as well as the adjacent wall)? I'll check it again and see if I can get some more 'exact' measurements...


If the wall behind the fridge is a common wall between your unit and the neighbour, it might also be 5/8 inch as well.
I do not know where you are or what your codes are, but here, the common walls need a fire rated 5/8 inch drywall.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

jlhaslip said:


> If the wall behind the fridge is a common wall between your unit and the neighbour, it might also be 5/8 inch as well.
> I do not know where you are or what your codes are, but here, the common walls need a fire rated 5/8 inch drywall.


The wall doesn't run up to my neighbors - if I look up into the void space, the 1/2" drywall runs less than a foot above the studs/beams and then stops. You can see the plumbing going up into the subflooring of my neighbor's unit from there:










I'm in Irvine, CA (SoCal) btw.

Since there's a firewall right there, wouldn't it make sense for them just to have used 5/8" Type X?


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

Actually, it is very possible that it was 1/2" drywall that was removed from the adjacent perpendicular wall. I'm not 100% sure how to tell though because the entire sheet was ripped off and there are no portions left that would have been cut for me to measure.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Are there any electrical outlets? Where the drywall is still intact you can measure next to the electrical box. If the entire wall has had the drywall removed it doesn't matter a whole lot what size you put back.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

mark sr said:


> Are there any electrical outlets? Where the drywall is still intact you can measure next to the electrical box. If the entire wall has had the drywall removed it doesn't matter a whole lot what size you put back.


Just one against the back wall that the fridge would sit in front of. On the side adjacent wall there are no outlets. I'm pretty certain the back wall with the outlet is 5/8". It's the adjacent side wall I'm not so sure about. There's a corner bead as well so not sure what it would be measured to. I measured where the tile sits and put a scrap piece of baseboard on top of where it is and measured how much room to the stud and it really looks like 1/2" of space. If I put 5/8" on that side wall, it might end up being too thick but I guess it won't matter because the baseboard would just come out slightly more... it would still be sitting on the grout line though.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

Somewhat related question, regarding exposed drywall from baseboard that was pulled out: there are a few areas where the remediation company pulled out a chunks of the drywall while removing baseboard during the demo. 

Are these areas just spots that I can use EZ Patch to patch up before having the baseboard reinstalled?


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

Also, if I were to reattempt the job above, how would you guys suggest going about doing it? Do I want to cut two sections for each wall? One lower and one upper? Looking at the holes that are already there, presumably from the prior drywall that was up, it looks to be that way. Would I want to cut even squares/rectangles and then patch by the square/triangle? Or am I going to factor in triangles and irregular edges when cutting a sheet to hang? The ceiling seems like it could get pretty tricky...


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Assuming there is still enough solid to patch after you clean up what you have pictured it shouldn't be a big deal to repair it. Might need to be primed first to bind up the dust. A setting compound would work best, regular joint compound will also work but will take more [thinner] coats.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

mark sr said:


> Assuming there is still enough solid to patch after you clean up what you have pictured it shouldn't be a big deal to repair it. Might need to be primed first to bind up the dust. A setting compound would work best, regular joint compound will also work but will take more [thinner] coats.




Thanks. I just have EZ Patch and Joint Compound but not setting compound. This particular area isn't *too* bad so I could probably get away with either. There are a couple spots in another area that are *really* bad though where a pretty significant chunk of drywall was 'excavated' deep. When you say "primed" are you referring to painting on Kilz or something?


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

Another question, going back to the original post, do I need to work in various sections to hang drywall? Especially around the ice maker box valve? 

e.g. for this part there are tabs that you presumably slide the drywall under:









The tabs are really close to the firewall though, so not much clearance to slide even 1/2" drywall in - not sure if I'd have to pull the nails out slightly so that there's some give. But in either case, would I need to cut a lower section of drywall with a "U" cut-out to account for this valve box? Then slide it up and under? Then another section between the electrical outlet and the top of the valve? And then one more section above that for the top part? 

I'm not sure how to deal with the outlet and valve box in this case....


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

> When you say "primed" are you referring to painting on Kilz or something?


Yes, when the gypsum is crumbly a primer will firm it up giving you a better base for the joint compound to adhere to.

Usually the tabs on those boxes are recessed and the drywall is hung over the tabs leaving the edge of the box flush with the drywall.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

mark sr said:


> Yes, when the gypsum is crumbly a primer will firm it up giving you a better base for the joint compound to adhere to.
> 
> Usually the tabs on those boxes are recessed and the drywall is hung over the tabs leaving the edge of the box flush with the drywall.


Hm so this is what the box looked like before:









Apparently there was a faceplate/trim over it but I think the water remediation company trashed it... ugh. I'm not quite sure what to do if I don't have the matching trim. This is a really old box unit, so finding a trim that will fit doesn't seem trivial. If I can't find anything, I'm not sure how to go about 'restoring' this. I think when the trim was removed the drywall probably wasn't sitting fully flush all the way around. Maybe to the sides but not sandwiched between the tabs to screw the faceplate/trim in place.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

You could probably buy a new box and use it's cover although since it will be hid by the fridge .... I won't tell if you don't install a cover.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

mark sr said:


> You could probably buy a new box and use it's cover although since it will be hid by the fridge .... I won't tell if you don't install a cover.


Yea, I was thinking don't bother worrying about replacing it since it'll be hidden regardless. Is there anything about not having a trim for the box being against code though (if we ever sell, it probably would be unsightly for Orange County :vs_OMG?

I don't know if any of the trims/faceplates for the newer style boxes (many of which are snap-in) would fit to the dimensions of this current one. There would probably be some extent of finagling and cutting away tabs, etc so that it could fit. But probably not worth the trouble...


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would forget about it.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks guys - that's what I was thinking. It's too much time and trouble to go hunting for the golden egg at this point.

That said, if I'm gonna DIY the large portion of drywall, is it best to split it up into two sections (for both the back wall and the side/adjacent wall)? One to do the lower portion with a cutout for the water supply outlet, and then one to do the upper portion with a cutout for the electrical outlet? Something like this (red line is where the seam would be)?










I'm just not as certain about the outlet because i think there might be not enough coverage from the bottom panel and there could be a gap that the outlet cover can't cover.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Generally the less seems you have in the drywall the better but it's not like there is a set of rules and since it will basically be hid anyway - do whatever works best for you.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

mark sr said:


> Generally the less seems you have in the drywall the better but it's not like there is a set of rules and since it will basically be hid anyway - do whatever works best for you.


That's what I hear. I've thought doing a single vertical panel with cut-outs would be easier but it would be harder to transpose and trace and also seems it would be a challenge to prop up with limited space. Not to mention transporting the full 4x8 sheets home (I have a Rav4 so no way that's going to happen). I think what I may have to do is break down the drywall into squares and rectangles at the store so I can at least transport them home. Then worry about cutting them to exact size once they're all here.

If I do decide to take the latter route of breaking the drywall up, do I want to work in squares and rectangles? Or should I factor in irregular portions into the cut-out? 










You can see the back wall picture shows where the seam might be - it'll be really close to the bottom of the electrical outlet, so that seems to be cutting it close with how close I'd want the electrical outlet cutout to be to the edge of the drywall for that top piece. 
The other consideration is that I'd be laying the top portion 'sideways' so that the exposed gypsum would be laying on top of the top covered edge of the bottom piece... wouldn't this make for a bad seam? I guess it doesn't matter since this is going behind the fridge but I want to do things as accurately as possible.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Plan you piece, joins want to be on studs. What is the biggest size you can carry.
Cut them to the right size at the store.

I would try to have it so all seams would be horizontal.


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## jplee3 (Jan 11, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Plan you piece, joins want to be on studs. What is the biggest size you can carry.
> Cut them to the right size at the store.
> 
> I would try to have it so all seams would be horizontal.


I can probably do 4x4 if anything. Even then it's questionable -I'd have to go measure the trunk to see what could actually fit. 

It seems vertical seams will be unavoidable at least when joining left side.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

A friend of mine hung around HD and asked people with trucks if they would drop off a few pieces for $10. He always finds someone.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

"" but the reason why the drywall was originally ripped out was because our upstairs neighbor's fridge supply line leaked and caused water damage to our unit.""

I'm wondering why you are fixing the problem.?


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