# How do I reinforce compromised load-bearing studs?



## rsclement (Feb 21, 2012)

Here is the issue. Due to lack of knowledge:huh:, a hole 2 1/2" in diameter was drilled through what I now know to be load-bearing. It is in the doorway to the living room from the foyer and there are 3 studs together. Should I remove the drywall on either side of the doorway and attach a full lenght stud with glue and nails to each to reinforce? Any other options like steel plates etc.

This is on the main floor. There is a basement and an upstairs. Was originally drilling to run wires for to allow home theatre equipment to be placed in a closet.

Need some advice. Thanks in advance!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Why 2-1/2? Could have been done with a much smaller hole.
The sheetrock only needs to be removed on one side. Just set new studs next to the ones already and nail at the top and bottom. No need to nail them together in the middle.


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## rsclement (Feb 21, 2012)

Good question. Just didn't know. Going to run several wires. (4 hdmi, 1 cat6...). I appreciate your help and quick response!


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Based on your description, it sounds like you may have drilled clear through three studs back to back. These may have been two trimmer studs and one king stud supporting a header. You need to check this possibility out, because if that is what you did, your header on one side has been severely compromised, and adding one stud is not likely to be adequate.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

look at this link it is more help full then here some times.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-P...holes-notching-and-boring-holes-in-wood-studs

FYI 3 1/4 " hole max for a 2x6 stud. An 2 1/8th max. for a 2x4 stud


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## rsclement (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks. Sounds like I have my work cut out for me.


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## JeepNick (Oct 27, 2011)

Could a stud shoe provide adequate reinforcement?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

May have to Remove drywall on one side, Temporary support header, remove drilled studs, install new studs, remove temp support, redrywall.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

If the studs are 2x6 he can drill a 3&1/4 inch hole and be ok.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

2X4 wall?

Width of doorway? 

Load above doorway?

Location?

*R602.6 Drilling and notching-studs.* Drilling and notching of studs shall be in accordance with the following: 

1. Notching. Any stud in an exterior wall or bearing partition may be cut or notched to a depth not exceeding 25 percent of its width. Studs in nonbearing partitions may be notched to a depth not to exceed 40 percent of a single stud width. 2. Drilling. Any stud may be bored or drilled, provided that the diameter of the resulting hole is no more than 60 percent of the stud width, the edge of the hole is no more than 5/8 inch (16 mm) to the edge of the stud, and the hole is not located in the same section as a cut or notch. Studs located in exterior walls or bearing partitions drilled over 40 percent and up to 60 percent shall also be doubled with no more than two successive doubled studs bored. See Figures R602.6(1) and R602.6(2). *

Exception:* Use of _approved_ stud shoes is permitted when they are installed in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. 












For SI: 1 inch = 25.4 mm. *

NOTE:* Condition for exterior and bearing walls. *

FIGURE R602.6(1) NOTCHING AND BORED HOLE LIMITATIONS FOR EXTERIOR WALLS AND BEARING WALLS*If under the IRC: http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_6_sec002_par012.htm

Gary


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## rsclement (Feb 21, 2012)

Here are some photos. I will get measurements shortly. Big question is how to fix it. What to brace. What to cut. What to replace. There is another story /floor above. Thanks for help.


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## Nailbags (Feb 1, 2012)

Well Did you do the notching? If not I would be going after the contractor.
a 3/4 hole would have been enough for cat 5 and coax. you need to replace all them studs they so take off the sheetrock brace up the top plate use a saws all with a thin blade to carefully cut out one stud then put the new one in. then repeat till done.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Yep as Nailbags said, or ou could sister new studs beside old ones. Where it goes behind the intersecting wall put one on both sides maybe. Typically the header above the door should be supported by studs in the wall it is on and it does not look like you touched them, or did you?


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## rsclement (Feb 21, 2012)

I believe I did. Looks like 3 studs together. Should I place a jack under doorway prior to working on it?


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## psilva8 (Jan 12, 2012)

Have you determined whether the wall with the opening is load bearing or not?

Regardless, those 3 studs are there for a reason. Possibly to take some roof loading. They should be replaced in full, but you will need a an excellent understand of the structure for any temporary support you will require.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If the doorway wall has a header in it and is carrying the load from ceiling/floor above, there is probably a king stud and jack stud still supporting it. (Under the trim casing). The 3 studs are carrying a point load from above OR are just backing for the doorway (partition) drywall. It may just be blocking sandwiched between two studs if not loaded and you drilled through the solid blocking.

Gary


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