# repairing drywall crack next to tub??



## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

That little piece of wood trim is probably doing more harm than good. If water gets there, it's going to get trapped behind and it's going to rot. If it were me, I'd take that piece out, fill in with a setting drywall compound, get everything nice and smooth, then caulk that seam and repaint.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Yet another reason why plaster is better than drywall. When drywall gets wet you have to replace it and then start the three coats of mud and sanding. When plaster gets wet you might have to repaint, if that.


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## ClarenceBauer (Mar 4, 2005)

Davejss said:


> Yet another reason why plaster is better than drywall. When drywall gets wet you have to replace it and then start the three coats of mud and sanding. When plaster gets wet you might have to repaint, if that.


I will agree Plaster is better than a drywall product.
But all plaster products are NOT for high moisture areas you would need the proper base plaster & finish for Bath & Shower areas.


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## Narhic_fd (Apr 16, 2018)

Good to know about the trim, thanks. I'm going to have to cut out section of the drywall to get all of the part that is bulging. Probally, a 4 inch x 2 inch. I figured I would replace what I cut out with a piece of drywall. Would that be a good idea?? How would I attach the replacement piece?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Use wood backer like this picture. Obviously you cannot orient your wood in that direction because the tub would be in the way.


https://s3.amazonaws.com/contractor-prod/32de3113336f6a8cc04f362e2525be1f.jpg


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## Narhic_fd (Apr 16, 2018)

So, pulled back some of the trim to see what's behind it, as you can see in the pic. Ones a further away pic and other close up. The brown is where the trim pulled the paper off. 
There is a gap between the drywall and the tub that the trim was covering(hard to see in pic). It was sealed though no visible sign of moisture.
Is there drywall behind the front part of the shower? I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to patch and mud near the original crack up top in the area where the blue tape is when there is only at best, an 8th of an inch before the cracked area is right next to the front part of the tub wall. I was hoping that there's drywall behind it so I could just carve one out and stick the replacement patch underneath it.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I'd remove the piece of shoe mold, clean up the area the best I could and apply a coat of setting compound, sand when dry [remove dust] touch up if needed then prime and paint. I'd caulk the drywall to the tub between the primer and finish coat. No need to reinstall the shoe or any other trim next to the edge of the tub.


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