# Spraying Behr Premium Plus



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

If the paint is not a custom tint, I would take it back. :thumbsup:

If you want to try Glidden, get the real paint store stuff, not the box store variety. I personally would call an order in to my Benjamin Moore dealer or some commercial clients had Pittsburgh (not for the Menard's stuff) or Sherwin Williams accounts they let me tap.

As the guy who sorted out the paint donation fiasco at a Habitat for Humanity ReStore once I will mention again that if you need 5ers of primer and basic off whites you might find some great deals on unopened containers in a store near you. Nice paint. In the years I did it, I never saw a container of Behr donated.


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## djonesax (Apr 14, 2008)

We bought it for the sale but have not tinted it yet. We were planning to tax it back for tinting later once we decide on a color.

David


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

David I just cannot argue using nice, paint store, paint anymore. 

I would take it back. I can help you decide on the color you should tint whatever but I like choices going into paint people will have until they grow tired of the colors.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

Behr is respected in some circles and not others. For the DX sprayer they recommend a maximum tip size of .015 and I think that would be fine for that paint. It's not overly thick. You shouldn't have any trouble spraying it. (I'm thinking interior, but if you're painting exterior I could be wrong - call Graco.)

What are you painting?

I've used that paint before and it's OK, kind of middle of the road. But you have to compare the cost of it with what you'd be using instead. Sounds like you're only saving $3-4 per gallon which doesn't sound like you're married to that sale.

Assuming you're paying $21/gallon for interior "Flat Enamel" (i.e. Matte), then what paint are you going to get for that price that's going to be better? Or are you thinking of spending more for better paint? The only paint I have much experience with that I'd use at that price point would be Sherwin Williams ProMar 400, but you can't get that at $21 unless it's on sale, and I don't think they put the Pro line on sale to the public. I get it at $21 because I have an account with them. My guess is that Behr Premium Plus is at least as good as ProMar 400. Needless to say there are better paints for more money, but it depends on the application whether it's worth it or not.


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## djonesax (Apr 14, 2008)

I'll be spraying interior trim and doors mostly. I ordered a power roller for the Graco, so I was going to attempt using that versus spraying the walls. I may spray the ceilings too but I havent decided yet.

I believe the paint sale price ended up being about $20 per gallon since it was $20 off 5 gallon buckets.

I was going to use a 213 Graco RAC 5 tip for the trim and I have a 515 for the walls and ceilings. 

David


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## Will22 (Feb 1, 2011)

This product can be sprayed just fine, as Jeff says. A power roller would be good- generally with thick interior paints, it is recommended with airless spray to back roll. This should work out OK.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

To clarify what Will said - I don't think he's recommending backrolling the spray with a power roller. In other words, roll with power roller, or spray and backroll with regular roller. He can correct me if I'm wrong....


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

If you sray both the trim and the walls, you can overspray only the first one. Taping does work better with sprayers than with brushes to get a clean line, however you still have to watch the longer distance overspray because the airless sprayers put a lot of paint in the air. I suppose it would be feasible to spray the trim first, wait for it to dry fully, then tape it off, covering it completely. If you got a friend to backroll the walls while you spray you'd be done in no time. Actual spraying time: 15 minutes. Prep and cleanup: 15 hours 

Sounds like you are spraying the trim and doors, then cutting in the walls, the rolling the walls. This should work fine. No taping necessary.


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## djonesax (Apr 14, 2008)

Thanks, that's what I got out of it too.


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## Will22 (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks, Jeff


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## djonesax (Apr 14, 2008)

jeffnc said:


> Sounds like you are spraying the trim and doors, then cutting in the walls, the rolling the walls. This should work fine. No taping necessary.


Yeah, that's the plan for now. Spray Trim and doors, then cut in and power-roll. I may spray the ceilings last if I decide to do them. I figured ceilings after walls because gravity makes it easier to tape and plastic the walls than the ceiling. What order do the pros follow?

Also, if I have over spray on the walls from the semi-gloss on the trim will the latex flat enamel cover that ok on the walls, or will I need to prime over it? I had planned on taping the walls or using a shield but if I dont have to, all the better.

David


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

If you were going to spray the ceiling, then you should probably
1) spray ceiling without covering anything
2) spray trim without covering anything
3) hand paint the walls

You can paint flat over semi-gloss overspray with priming. If you want you can give a quick, light sanding on the walls near the trim just to degloss.

edit: that was supposed to be _without_ priming. The sanding should be enough.


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## Jmayspaint (May 4, 2013)

jeffnc said:


> If you were going to spray the ceiling, then you should probably
> 1) spray ceiling without covering anything
> 2) spray trim without covering anything
> 3) hand paint the walls
> ...


 That's generally how I would do it, and pretty much common practice. 

The only weak link in that system for DYI is that you have to cut in the line at the ceiling. I guess you could tape the ceiling to make your cut line, and the trim too if you want. 
Pros use variations on this system for different circumstances, and preference, but this way is pretty standard. 

It's a real good idea to sand the overspray from the trim that gets on the walls. It makes it a lot easier to cover with the wall paint, and will reduce the chance of flashing in those areas.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Go to Sherwin Williams get a 3M Hand Masker 3000 a couple rolls of blue tape and a couple rolls of the thin plastic made for the masker. Get 1 roll of 9' and 1 roll of 4'. When you put the roll of tape on the masker it comes off with the plastic attached. Use the 9' on the walls go all the way around the room then just unfold the plastic and let it drop. All walls and doors and windows are now covered, why 9' plastic 8' of wall and 1 foot to lay over drop cloth. Use 4' on the ceiling same way, when you unfold the 4' spot tape loose end to ceiling. Masking done, time 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. Clean up, pull down plastic, put in garbage, time 5 minutes. Clean sprayer put intake hose in bucket of water, point gun in paint bucket, pull trigger. This gets the paint that is in the hose, when you see water start to come out, stop. Point gun in empty bucket and shoot till the 5 gallon of water is gone or until you get clear water, sprayer cleaned. Time 10 to 15 minutes. Spray job=priceless.


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