# Intersecting gambrel roofs



## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

Just another roof.
You can weave any valley, or lay one roof over the other.
Run paper past valleys like always.
I admit it's going to get pretty weird up there.
You're making this pretty tough on yourself, this design.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

That is going to be a funky tie in.

Use Ice/Water shield as a minimum in that valley.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Next to imposable to tie it in the way your trying to do it.
That wall should have been set so it was connected to the shed that's there now forming an inside corner, not away from it leaving a gap.
That way some of your trusses could have been cut where the two roofs meet so they would be sitting on the old sheds roof.
The way you have it now one side of your gable roof is going to look differant from the the other side.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

What type of foundation are these sheds on?
The same? - different?

rossfingal


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Good point, I guessing where your getting at, correct me if I'm wrong.
If the old sheds just on skids the two building are going to be moving slightly differant rates and can cause the two roof lines to crack where they intersect.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

"joecaption"

Yeah, my thoughts exactly!
(Great minds think alike!!)
"W-on-W" is on - what do you think?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Wo WO I got one right, yea. lol


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

Every "Dog" has it's day! 
(From a "Dog")

RF


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

rossfingal said:


> "joecaption"
> 
> Yeah, my thoughts exactly!
> (Great minds think alike!!)
> "W-on-W" is on - what do you think?


I would tend to agree with joe (  ) in that you need to cut some structure to have it terminate on the old roof.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

From the picture - it looks like there is a space between the existing shed,
and the new shed. (Looks to be a foot or two)
How is that gap going to be "bridged" on the roof; and, the walls?
As usual - the "OP" has not gotten back! 

Two separate structures - moving independently?!?
The way it looks - the roof on the existing structure (and the walls) are going to have to be
run into the new structure.
Roof - old roof, extended and "set-on" the new roof.
Easy!

RF


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## ejds (Feb 23, 2012)

Wow, thanks for the responses. As for the existing shed, yes it is on skids. At the corners where both building meet they do share common footing piers. I didn't had a current picture since I keep everything covered with tarps to deal with the rain every other day. Here is one from today.










I do have the roofs tied in with each other and the gap that was visible is bridged by extending the wall and roof of the existing shed. Today the building inspector approved the framing. 

My main question is how to shingle the valleys. I plan on using Ice/Water shield at the area where both roofs connect and at the break of the pitch on both roofs. My concern is at the lower parts of the valleys the angle is close to 90 degrees and running the shingles onto the other roof plane might be too much of a bend.

Thanks,
Egbert


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The shingles do not get bent, only the flashing and tar paper get bent. The shingles would be done as if they were two seperate roofs and just get cut where they meet The angles way to steep to do a woven valley. You need a cut valley.


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## titanoman (Nov 27, 2011)

joecaption said:


> The shingles do not get bent, only the flashing and tar paper get bent. The shingles would be done as if they were two seperate roofs and just get cut where they meet The angles way to steep to do a woven valley. You need a cut valley.


True.


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## rossfingal (Mar 20, 2011)

You need "step flashing" -
Hope you can find some matching siding! 

RF


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## ParagonEx (Sep 14, 2011)

What is so difficult about this? It's like a mansard style roof. Do the lower portion first, Use step flashing, roof.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

ParagonEx said:


> What is so difficult about this? It's like a mansard style roof. Do the lower portion first, Use step flashing, roof.


It isn't difficult in this capacity as most recently pictured. What I think a couple of people were commenting on was the first picture before the OP properly joined the two structures together.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I would have removed that outside corner on the siding and all the siding on the left side of that window before the new wall went up. Reason being the siding could have been woven in so it would look like it was all built at the same time not two differant buildings, and the tyvek would have covered over the seam between the buildings.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

joecaption said:


> I would have removed that outside corner on the siding and all the siding on the left side of that window before the new wall went up. Reason being the siding could have been woven in so it would look like it was all built at the same time not two differant buildings, and the tyvek would have covered over the seam between the buildings.














I am not busting your chops Joe but anytime I can find a good spot for this South Park character...I think it is hilarious.


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## ejds (Feb 23, 2012)

Thanks all, I will use the step flashing at the roof intersections and that should't be that difficult. The old shed's roof was in pretty bad condition with several leaks along the roof break. I'm replacing the whole top part of that roof and raise the pitch in the process. There was no paper under the shingles and the top plywood had several sags in it to collect water.

I'm replacing the siding on the existing shed so it all will match the house siding. 

I have seen references to using flashing, possible drip edge, at the roof breaks. The old shed just had the shingles bend over the break and that started failing first. Can somebody point me to some details about using a drip edge on the break?
I'm replacing the siding on the existing shed so it all will match the house siding.

Today we are expecting bad weather with high wind, I hope my tarps don't blow away.

Egbert


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I use drip cap where that break in the roof line is everytime I have to deal with that style roof. I strip the roof install the tar paper over the whole roof, bending it over that rip, install all the shingles on the two lower sides, making sure to apply a dab of roofing tar over the last nail heads, then install the drip cap, apply Storm and Ice shield so it lays over the drip cap but leave about 1/2" of the drip cap showing on just the top part of the roof.
Ever store bought shed I've worked on had no paper, less then 1/2 OSB sheathing, no H clips between the trusses, and the shingles are stapled on not nailed. 
Most had almost no over hang of the shingles and no drip cap which will cause the edges of the roof to rot out.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I got ya windows, ha ha.
How many times have we all seen DIY additions with that seam where the new and old are connected. Always been a pet peave of mine when it's so simple to do it right and have it look better.
Or when they decide to enclose a porch and leave the slab sticking out instead of building the walls so the sheathing runs past the slab so water will not get under the walls.
Ok done ranting. lol


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## ejds (Feb 23, 2012)

joecaption said:


> I use drip cap where that break in the roof line is everytime I have to deal with that style roof. I strip the roof install the tar paper over the whole roof, bending it over that rip, install all the shingles on the two lower sides, making sure to apply a dab of roofing tar over the last nail heads, then install the drip cap, apply Storm and Ice shield so it lays over the drip cap but leave about 1/2" of the drip cap showing on just the top part of the roof.
> Ever store bought shed I've worked on had no paper, less then 1/2 OSB sheathing, no H clips between the trusses, and the shingles are stapled on not nailed.
> Most had almost no over hang of the shingles and no drip cap which will cause the edges of the roof to rot out.


Thanks for the details on the break. The original shed roof is pretty crappy, mainly because to top plywood didn't lap over the plywood of the lower part of the roof and was sagging there creating leaks. 

Egbert


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