# Steering problems



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Things to check, Ball Joints, steering knuckle, tie rod ends, All linkage joints, mounting bolts for the rack, loose steering box at the frame, 

You don't give a guy any details, So we have to do a general diagnosis.

Vehicle, make, model, year, mileage, usage, all are needed to get more specific.


ED


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## Greg8642 (Aug 18, 2018)

de-nagorg said:


> Things to check, Ball Joints, steering knuckle, tie rod ends, All linkage joints, mounting bolts for the rack, loose steering box at the frame,
> 
> You don't give a guy any details, So we have to do a general diagnosis.
> 
> ...


Sorry I didn’t think. The vehicle is a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 slt quadcab rwd. It’s low mileage and only has about 60,000 miles. Usage is mainly just point a to b. Really all I was hoping for was someone who knows to say something like, did you do this right, or that? Just the typical kinds of mistakes someone would expect a beginner to possibly make. The only things I can think of are that I maybe messed something up buy using the impact wrench to fasten the rack to the frame, or that the rack has problems to start with. Apart from that I wouldn’t know what to think. So I thought maybe one of you guys might know if there are common mistakes I could have made. Anyway thanks for your response.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Here's how to check it. Put the entire front end on jack stands. Grab the passenger tire at 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock. With force, push the tire left & right as if you were trying to make turns. Watch the tie rods, idler arm. pitman arm & center link to see if what has play in it & where the play is. Do the same thing from the driver's side. Tell us what you see.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Guap0_ said:


> Here's how to check it. Put the entire front end on jack stands. Grab the passenger tire at 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock. With force, push the tire left & right as if you were trying to make turns. Watch the tie rods, idler arm. pitman arm & center link to see if what has play in it & where the play is. Do the same thing from the driver's side. Tell us what you see.


Do this like you mean it, don't be afraid that you are going to break it, if anything breaks, there is your problem.

While it is up try to move the wheel assembly in out at the top and bottom also, this checks for slack / worn upper and lower ball joints. 

Any aberrant movement is a worn part. 

And yes sometimes you can get a junk part, especially those that have been re-manufactured.

ED


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## Greg8642 (Aug 18, 2018)

Guap0_ said:


> Here's how to check it. Put the entire front end on jack stands. Grab the passenger tire at 3 o'clock & 9 o'clock. With force, push the tire left & right as if you were trying to make turns. Watch the tie rods, idler arm. pitman arm & center link to see if what has play in it & where the play is. Do the same thing from the driver's side. Tell us what you see.


Thanks for the reply, but I don’t think my truck has a pitman arm, idler arm, or centre link. I can’t find it in the factory service manual or under the truck when I look.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

How do the wheels turn if there are no front end parts?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Truck steering systems are generally not rack and pinion designs. They are recirculating ball design systems. I looked your truck up on-line, and yours DOES have a rack and pinion system, so there will be no pitman arm, etc.


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## bfletcher7 (Jan 16, 2016)

I'm not a mechanic, so don't consider this a possible diagnosis and don't laugh if it's off base but one of our cars exhibited symptoms somewhat similar to what you describe (and then some). We would hear a random "popping" sound whose vibration travelled to the steering wheel, we experienced random play, and even a random--grasping for words here--lane jump (it seemed like the car suddenly shifted a few inches left or right... or maybe just one direction; I don't recall). 

Doing a visual, one of the inner CV joint boots was split and grease was everywhere. After replacing it (along with one defective ball joint) those symptoms have not recurred.

Although, in your case, your symptoms began after replacing the rack.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

_when I turn the wheel nothing happens for the first say 15 degrees. = __the remanufactured rack had problems to start with._

Of course, you bled the power steering after install, right?
Folks, his problem is not much tie rods or ball joints, that truck - I have 2005 RAM with 161 000 miles - is literally a tank suspension wise. I am amazed how well it all holds on mine.


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

The only thing left to do, and the safest.


Take it to a pro before you kill someone or yourself.


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## Greg8642 (Aug 18, 2018)

Bigplanz said:


> Truck steering systems are generally not rack and pinion designs. They are recirculating ball design systems. I looked your truck up on-line, and yours DOES have a rack and pinion system, so there will be no pitman arm, etc.





ukrkoz said:


> _when I turn the wheel nothing happens for the first say 15 degrees. = __the remanufactured rack had problems to start with._
> 
> Of course, you bled the power steering after install, right?
> Folks, his problem is not much tie rods or ball joints, that truck - I have 2005 RAM with 161 000 miles - is literally a tank suspension wise. I am amazed how well it all holds on mine.


Yes I bled the power steering system, but out of curiosity how would some air in the system cause those symptoms? Thanks for all your replies.


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## Greg8642 (Aug 18, 2018)

ron45 said:


> The only thing left to do, and the safest.
> 
> 
> Take it to a pro before you kill someone or yourself.


I’ve had it to a few pros. None of them could replicate the problem so they all said just drive it.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Greg8642 said:


> Yes I bled the power steering system, but out of curiosity how would some air in the system cause those symptoms? Thanks for all your replies.


An air bubble in a hydraulic system, causes a "DEAD" spot, that skips a notch or two, in actuating the piston, thus causes erratic control of the function.

In your case is delays the action, a few degrees before it engages.

This could be the problem, and maybe your "experts", are not as expert as they claim to be.


ED


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Read this:


https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1815201


Particularly #5 and #6.


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## bfletcher7 (Jan 16, 2016)

ron45 said:


> Take it to a pro


Please define a "pro", and how we amateurs can prove-out whom among us are pros. I, personally, do not subscribe to your notion. 

The OP also stated "The shops checked the suspension as well and they said that it was fine."

Define the distinction between "shop" and "pro," please. 

Many here are very-well educated and I fully understand why the OP came here for guidance in an effort to diagnose his issue. I, too, trust the recommendations of others on this site above those of "pros."


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

First, where did you buy the rack and pinion? Auto Zone? There is your problem. To get the air out, jack up you front end until the tires are of the ground. Engine off, turn the steering wheel lock to lock, meaning all the way right, then left. Power steering fluid may come out of reservoir. top off and start it. Look in reservoir and see if bubbles are present or clear. If clear, air is gone. If that thing makes noise or 'loose' when turning, replace it.:vs_cool:


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

bfletcher7 said:


> Please define a "pro", and how we amateurs can prove-out whom among us are pros. I, personally, do not subscribe to your notion.
> 
> The OP also stated "The shops checked the suspension as well and they said that it was fine."
> 
> ...


In this case a pro would be someone who is certified specific.

For instance: You wouldn't take it to the Harley shop.


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