# Garage Door Opener Ripped From Door



## jimparson (Nov 7, 2008)

Hello,

When we tried to open our garage door (Wayne Dalton) this morning, it seems that the metal bracket in the center attaching the puller to the top of the door ripped out of the door (pictures attached). Usually, you can pull the string and lift the door if the opener isn't working, but it is very hard to lift. Does anyone know what I need to do to repair this, or have someone repair it for me? What will I expect to pay for the repair? What should I do?

Thanks in advance for you advice.
JM


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## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

Either your torsion spring wasn't adjusted properly or is broke. Matter of fact I don't see the torsion spring on the bar at all. Was it installed and removed for some reason. The spring is what helps the door go up easier. I think your missing something there, Get the manual out and double check all the hardware to see if everything is installed properly. And besides the door opener should have sensed the binding and stopped before this happened. So that also need adjusting. But first things first find out where those torsion springs went. And also a model # of the door and opener would help.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

James Con -- The torsion springs are in the horizontal tube...they're not on the outside as most others. That's not to say they're working properly, which would either take additional diagnosis or calling a repair person.

I have the 9600 WD doors and the lift point on mine are on top of the door, screwed into the top strut and door, I could not find a part number on line...give a call to your local WD dealer. They'll let you know what to do.


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## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

The 7000 series doors have the torsion springs and the higher end doors like yours have that torque master setup. You would know better if his looks like the torque master setup or not being you have it. but I think he has the regular torsion springs. either way something went wrong because that door should be going up easy. I hate to be a wise guy but I hope he doesn't have it locked. LOL


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## jimparson (Nov 7, 2008)

Hi James,
Thanks for the info. Actually, the door is never locked and since it has broken, we cannot get it open. I can lift if a few feet but it gets very very heavy. I pulled the release string, so I would expect that it would come up easily, but no. Our cars are currently trapped in the garage and we need to get our daughter at school soon. Is there a way to bypass whatever is making it so heavy? Do you know if it was installed incorrectly or what would cause this? Sure seems like it should not just rip like this.
Thanks
JM


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## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

without the spring assist the door is gonna be heavy. You could try dissasembling each panel at the hinges and roll each door up carefuly out of the way. Just get the manual and dissasemble the oposite of assembly. You could get the manual off there websit if you need.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

That's news to me...I see that the torque master does not come standard on any of their doors...it's optional who'da thunk it? Maybe my local dealer just figured it in the price. Regardless...look more closely at the pictures...there's red warning tags on each end of the torsion spring pipe, which leads me to think it does have the torque master set up.

But yeah...the door should be lift-able by one hand. I'm guessing the one of the two gears in the loading mechanism is stripped and the torsion was lost from the spring. I've seen these when they get some age on them strip out when adjusting and it makes one he!! of a racket when it let's go. It might be worth a call to the WD and see if this damage is covered by their warranty...assuming he is the original owner...I hate it when warranties expire when a property is sold....


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

When you do pick the door up a little bit...does the cable on the sides stay tight or is there slack?

A couple of decently strong individuals should be able to pick that door up...


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## jimparson (Nov 7, 2008)

Actually, a repairman just stopped by and said that probably 1 spring is broken of the 2. We were able to lift the door and visegrip it open to get the vehicles out. He said the torquemaster pipe or whatever it is needs to be replaced so we have to wait a week two get one shipped in. We bought this house new about 4 years ago and open the door only 1 or 2 times a day. Sure seems like it should not break so soon.


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## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

Torque master it is. That's something to think about when I replace my garage doors. Should I go traditional spring setup or this torque master setup. I would hate to think of not being home and the wife can't get out. She would probably drive right through the door.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

James Con said:


> Torque master it is. That's something to think about when I replace my garage doors. Should I go traditional spring setup or this torque master setup. I would hate to think of not being home and the wife can't get out. She would probably drive right through the door.


I really don't think it would make a bit of difference. Each design has it's flaws.

Standard spring -- I was in my garage when the traditional door spring end broke while fully extended. OMG was that a racket! Of course there wasn't a safety cable in the center of the spring, and it just flopped all over the place. There simple to install, easy to adjust. So here you have the issue of safety and door not working.

Torsion spring -- while the energy is coiled around the tube, they can and do break. The major downfall is that while loading the spring to raise the door can be done safely, it's also very dangerous. Here you have a safety issue and when the spring breaks, the door that doesn't work.

With the torque master set up and I believe there's a couple of other brands out there with the same, the spring is enclosed in the tube away from the garage dust, the loading mechanism is easy to do with a power drill, and can be adjusted very easily. I like the design where most things are enclosed...away from the garage dust. When it breaks like for the OP, at least the energy is confined to the inside of the tube greatly minimizing the potential for additional damage around or near the door. They really are not that difficult to repair. Here the door doesn't work...but the margin of safety is higher than the other type IMHO. I prefer this type...others may not...but for the money that's what I buy and install. 

The bottom line is if the spring gives way while the car's in garage, unless it's a standard 9x7 and one is in decent health and can lift a decent amount, it's going to take at least a couple of people to raise the door, regardless of the spring type.


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## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

I never was around when a traditional spring broke but I did see the aftermath, You have valid points for different types, but I think you talked me into the torque master. For safety sake.


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

Yeah...talk about making me evaluate the condition of the boxers when it happened....man it was loud.

The one down side I did experience with the Torque Master, it was an older door, dusty environment. I removed the torque from the spring, installed the I-drive opener. When I went to re-load the spring, the nylon gear stripped it's threads, I suspect either the dust caused it to grind away, or the lube was not compatible with the nylon. It appeared to be well lubricated, also don't know if the HO used a different kind of lube.

Replaced the gears for about $12 bucks and was off and running. Now I clean and re-lube the drive gears when adjusting the torque. In a "normal" house garage though, I think it's a good product.


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## James Con (Aug 29, 2007)

RippySkippy said:


> *Yeah...talk about making me evaluate the condition of the boxers when it happened....man it was loud.*
> 
> The one down side I did experience with the Torque Master, it was an older door, dusty environment. I removed the torque from the spring, installed the I-drive opener. When I went to re-load the spring, the nylon gear stripped it's threads, I suspect either the dust caused it to grind away, or the lube was not compatible with the nylon. It appeared to be well lubricated, also don't know if the HO used a different kind of lube.
> 
> Replaced the gears for about $12 bucks and was off and running. Now I clean and re-lube the drive gears when adjusting the torque. In a "normal" house garage though, I think it's a good product.


I can imagine. Talk about a coronary.


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## yesitsconcrete (May 11, 2008)

that's why the cable thru springs,,, every spring should have 'em imn-s-hfo :whistling2:


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## magpie583 (Apr 13, 2009)

*torque master wayne dalton drive*

We have a torquemaster drive that we bought roughly 5 years ago for a double car garage. It has worked well until recently when it began straining to lift the door. When disengaged the door moves freely without any trouble and I can lift it one handed until it's above my head. This makes me believe it's not the spring that is the problem. Unsure if it's gears stripping or motor trouble. Any suggestions. Also how do I replace the springs? Margaret


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