# Reusing old fence post holes



## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

You could tamp it in very small lifts/wet it/and drive a concrte truck over it... and I would not want it for my corner post.....

It's a little pricey, I haven't used it, but have you seen that new expanding foam.. I think Silka makes it....

and someone said the other day, it works great.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

A wood fence corner can get a lot of support from the next post in both direction, A wire fence will need a lot of help in the corner.


----------



## NickTheGreat (Jul 25, 2014)

Concrete is fairly cheap and easy . . . 

Especially for a corner post, seems like a good place for extra strength.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would pour the lump of concrete but put the post in a piece of sewer pipe so the next time the post can be pulled with out the concrete. Measure and stake a set distance from the stake in two directions so you can replace it in wet cement when poured.


----------



## adamtki (Jun 22, 2016)

This is for a 4x4 wood post btw. I figure even if the ground is soft after redigging it, it'll harden up over time. I just need to make sure the post doesn't drift until the ground hardens up. I also need to wait long enough so that it's possible to redig and make a hole that doesn't collapse. I guess the standard procedure is to just pour more concrete instead redigging a hole? I did that for the other corner post a couple of months ago, but that one didn't have a property stake near it.

I've seen the expanding foam but I prefer to avoid stuff that doesn't mix naturally with the environment.


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Back fill around a new house is considered undisturbed after ten years.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Here is what I have done in that situation.

Take a sledge, break the old concrete off the old post, save it, if the post is still good enough to reuse, great, use it.

Also have a supply of more rubble ( broken concrete, stones, broken bricks, etc.) place the post in the large hole, get it situated nearly exactly where you want it to be, now start adding the rubble, around the post base, go around as many times as it takes to get the post stable and plumb, with the rubble packed tightly around it, packing, tamping with your spud bar, check for plumb, when you get the hole packed 3/4 way, then you can use concrete (wet), to fill up the rest of the hole, push the wet concrete into the crevasses with the spud bar, until the hole is barely overfull.

Now mound the concrete in the center around the post, to make it shed water, rain, snowmelt, gardening, all this water will drain away from the wood, and preserve the post a long time.

ED


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

de-nagorg said:


> Here is what I have done in that situation.
> 
> Take a sledge, break the old concrete off the old post, save it, if the post is still good enough to reuse, great, use it.
> 
> ...


 Ed: that adds up to a frost trap, you want the sides of the concrete as smooth as you can get it to depth.


----------



## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Use a concrete tube at least 8" in diameter, set your post and back fill around the tube and tamp it very well. Use screw when making connection to that post and you will have no problems.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> Ed: that adds up to a frost trap, you want the sides of the concrete as smooth as you can get it to depth.


That's a possibility, but I have never had frost-heave happen. Maybe the spud bar poking the wet concrete fills the exterior surface voids.


ED


----------



## adamtki (Jun 22, 2016)

Colbyt said:


> Use a concrete tube at least 8" in diameter, set your post and back fill around the tube and tamp it very well. Use screw when making connection to that post and you will have no problems.


I'll give this a try if the hole i redig doesn't hold up. I have a concrete tube already in case I might need it. The post will be connected with screws to two sets of railings so it should have enough stability from them as the ground sets over time. Thanks!


----------



## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

In your OP you mentioned proximity to the "property stake". If this is a survey marker, you need to be careful not to move, alter or interfere with it. Survey markers are covered by local or federal law depending on jurisdiction.


----------



## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,..... Sono-tubes was My 1st thought too,.....


----------



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Sono tubes are great for a nice smooth side to your pier but they are only self supporting when connected to a footing


----------



## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Good advice so far. I just musingly read the title, and couldn't help myself, so here goes. I think you should pull up the old holes (not reuse them) and install NEW holes 

Serioiusly, I think you could probably find 8" sonotubes, which may suffice for a fence installation.


----------

