# Quality of MRCOOL Split System Heat Pump



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

What back ground and tools do you have that would make you think a DIY install on a HVAC system is a good idea?
What's your location, never heard of a Mr Cool.


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

joecaption said:


> What back ground and tools do you have that would make you think a DIY install on a HVAC system is a good idea?
> What's your location, never heard of a Mr Cool.


I have no prior background in HVAC but I've purchased a vacuum pump, Oxygen Acetylene torch set, Nitrogen cylinder and regulator and Testo 550 gauges; the refrigerant and other items I plan to purchase on Amazon or other online retailer. Why do I think I can do this you ask...because I can read, follow directions and have a fundamental understanding of what's happening in an HVAC system. I've taken on other projects in life with no prior knowledge and have been successful as long as I do my research and take my time. Also, I'm not paying $6,000 to an HVAC contractor for something like this...at that cost I could mess up a few times and still be under that ridiculous price! My location is Georgia. Here's a link to the system I'm asking about: http://ingramswaterandair.com/mrcool-seer-r410a-complete-split-system-heat-pump-p-25312.html


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## Ucool (Aug 15, 2016)

What type of refrigerant is in the current unit now?


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

Ucool said:


> What type of refrigerant is in the current unit now?


The current unit is R22 but don't worry I am flushing the lineset out with the RX11 flush kit: http://www.nucalgon.com/products/tsp/rx11-flush-liquid


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## Ucool (Aug 15, 2016)

Just make sure you have a company come out to reclaim the r22 so they can dispose of it properly.


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

Ucool said:


> Just make sure you have a company come out to reclaim the r22 so they can dispose of it properly.


I would definitely do that but unfortunately the condenser took care of disposing the R22 by itself when a line on the reversing valve broke.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Never heard of mr cool before. It looks like its a rebranded unit. Not for who made it though. 

We can help you with any issues you have. We are generally noob friendly. 

Cheers!


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

I'm the opposite of you, lots of knowledge of hvac but low experience doing major projects. I wouldn't dare install a system myself; just from doing little things i know how difficult working with sheet metal is, how things never quite line up in the real world as they on in theory. (especially when it comes to spacial things)

U can get badly burned, end up needing a tech to finish the job or fry a air handler circuit board if the stuff is miswired.

My advice is to learn as much theory as u can. This is not like diy projects and there's a whole science to it. 

Learn about psychrometrics (if u know enough u'll understand these terms ->latent heat, wetbulb temperature, enthalpy) , the refrigeration cycle (the function of the metering device - the relationship between pressure and the boiling point of the refrigerant), electrical (sizing wires, breakers, theory like ohms law, how motors work,), hvac controls (what wire does what, how resi systems are controlled.

There is much to screw up.

Learn how systems are sized with load calc software, the importance of doing room by room load calcs, duct design principles (like static pressure and total equivalent length, grill sizing - converting required BTUs to cfm).

How incorrect airflow can totally throw off pressure/temperature readings.

If u're not comfortable with the above diy is probably a bad idea, especially the part having to do with getting the refrigerant charge and airflow correct.

On the practical side of things tips/things to pay close attention to:

1. You might want to practice brazing before doing it on the system

2. Stick with north american units, i wouldn't try a chinese knockoff with a crappy compressor or really poor quality copper. *Good units have copeland scrolls in them*, pressure switches to shut the machine off in case of loss of refrigerant or fan motor failure.

3. Proper matching of indoor and outdoor sections for rated capacity.

4. Protecting service valves, schrader valves and txv metering device from being overheated when brazing


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Panasonic and Tecumseh are also very good compressors. 

Yes there's a lot to know, but it's easy to over think the theory too. Most techs or there wouldn't give a care in the world for half of the theory or even measuring the above. There's some very important steps, and must know things. Then there's many nice to know but not critical things. Points 1-4 above are valid, and there are some dangerous aspects to this, so be careful. 

Like I said, ask here, and we'll help. Watch lots of videos too. 

PS. If it's possible, replace the lineset. We don't always do that, and I only flush with nitrogen. (some of our linesets would takes days to replace) But, new everything is really the only way to be sure that there's nothing left behind.

Cheers!


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

supers05 said:


> Panasonic and Tecumseh are also very good compressors.
> 
> Yes there's a lot to know, but it's easy to over think the theory too. Most techs or there wouldn't give a care in the world for half of the theory or even measuring the above. There's some very important steps, and must know things. Then there's many nice to know but not critical things. Points 1-4 above are valid, and there are some dangerous aspects to this, so be careful.
> 
> ...


I do appreciate all the replies. I did want to ask for suggestions on this as I believe this is more of a "tradesman" thing and not something I can just follow in a manual. Regarding my return plenum and placement of the air handler what would be the best approach to constructing a plenum and allowing correct placement for say an Aprilaire 2410 air cleaner (or something better perhaps)? I have attached pics of my entire air handler, the front return plenum, right side, rear and left side respectively. I guess I should add that I decided to go with a Goodman setup and will be installing a: GOODMAN AVPTC36C14 air handler and GSZ140361 heat pump.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

I'm so glad that i don't work resi.... 

What made you pick the Goodman? Just curious. It'll be OK. 

That particular aprilaire filter/frame will be highly restrictive. At 1200cfm it's spec sheet says it'll have a resistance of 0.12"WC. (around 24% of the average pressure most systems will produce, and equal to a good portion of your entire ductwork system.) This means that you'll have to change it often to avoid causing problems with your system and it'll may make a lot of wind noise. I'd suggest a more average filter.

PS. Have you been cleaning that drain often, or did that installer run out of drain pipe? (lots of extra fittings on it) 

Cheers!


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

supers05 said:


> I'm so glad that i don't work resi....
> 
> What made you pick the Goodman? Just curious. It'll be OK.
> 
> ...


Lol I hear ya, I'm not looking forward to this either! I chose Goodman because it appeared a lot of online retailers carried them, it has the Copeland scroll compressor and all aluminum evap. Two guys at work installed similar systems in their homes not too long ago and they have been very pleased with their systems. So you think it's best to shy away from the Aprilaire filter system and go with a more traditional filter? That's fine, I guess I'm just curious on the construction of the return plenum. Is there something available where I do not have to mess with a lot of sheet metal, construct all new duct board and flex duct? Any innovations in the duct work world that will make this job easier? Or is this something I will just have to wait and see how the new air handler matches up?

Regarding the drain, my wife and I closed on this house in July and that setup came with the house but I will agree that drainage is a bit ridiculous so I'll probably take the time and clean it up.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Your return might actually match up. Look up the installation manual for that model and check it out. (they almost always give dimentions somewhere in their literature.) it doesn't have to be straight like that, it can enter the side too. They just usually come with trap door in the bottom, so it saves time and energy for the installer in that case. 

I personally would have mounted the unit somehow, and not have all the weight on the return plenum like that. (even if it's just hanging strap) 

Cheers!


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## user_12345a (Nov 23, 2014)

The media filter is less restrictive than a 1" filter.

Standard 1" pleat 16x25 i think is boarderline small for 3 tons. now if it's a bigger filter it may be okay.

You can get a merv8 4" honeywell media filter, that would be your best bet. only need changing once a year.

Your attic space looks pretty decent to work in. You may want to post more info on duct sizes and number of branches to establish that you'll get proper airflow. 

Make sure that the match is approved by the manufacturer. You may need to add an indoor heatpump txv for certain matches unless air handler comes with it. (or change the orifice or txv if a bigger air handler is needed to get the seer/hspf rating)

I would take a goodman over any knock-off any day. 

Its lower end but decent stuff. Maybe not as solidly built as a rheem, carrier/trane/lennox mid-grade unit, but probably still decent.

Are you adding any supplemental heat?


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

supers05 said:


> Your return might actually match up. Look up the installation manual for that model and check it out. (they almost always give dimentions somewhere in their literature.) it doesn't have to be straight like that, it can enter the side too. They just usually come with trap door in the bottom, so it saves time and energy for the installer in that case.
> 
> I personally would have mounted the unit somehow, and not have all the weight on the return plenum like that. (even if it's just hanging strap)
> 
> Cheers!


Is that not acceptable to have the air handler on the return sheet metal box? Just curious because a lot of the YouTube videos I've been watching show guys constructing a sheet metal return box and then placing the air handler on top of that. Should I plan to build some sort of plywood support?


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

It happens all the time, I'm very well aware of that. On a few that were installed around here (mostly in elevator and other control rooms) the filter box starts to deform after a while. Makes it hard to change the filter and get the cover back on. It also makes you feel like the whole thing is about to tip over everytime you touch it. 

Will it work like you have it now? Yes. But you'll appreciate a bit more support as you work on it in the future. (for example, replacing that pan would be a real headache.)

Cheers!


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## hayhursm (Jan 29, 2006)

user_12345a said:


> The media filter is less restrictive than a 1" filter.
> 
> Standard 1" pleat 16x25 i think is boarderline small for 3 tons. now if it's a bigger filter it may be okay.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info, I will check into the Honeywell. The Goodman air handler I ordered does come with a factory installed TXV so I should be okay. Regarding supplemental heat, I planned to go with a 10KW heater coil. P.S. I will definitely post some duct sizes this weekend...it's just been a busy week and I have not had time to get around to it.


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