# Epoxy Resin Countertops



## sevenlol (Aug 8, 2011)

try a scotchbrite pad. this is what we use on joints for "corian" type countertops as a finishing step after very fine sandpaper.










*edit*
have to do it by hand, i don't know of any that go on a sander. but it doesn't take too much rubbing to bring out the shine.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

The only way you’re going to get that glass like finish back is to pour another layer of epoxy.

I’ve spent way to much time trying to do what you’re hoping to do with less than prefect results. 

If you want it to look like glass again then you need to pour it again.


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## coyote97 (Mar 7, 2012)

Wet or dry?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Rubbing compound on a rag may also help get the tiny scratches out.
Products lke 3M fiberglass restorer work well to.
It can take an oxidized scratched boat and make it look new.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

joecaption said:


> Rubbing compound on a rag may also help get the tiny scratches out.
> Products lke 3M fiberglass restorer work well to.
> It can take an oxidized scratched boat and make it look new.


 Sure it "may" get the scratches out but you’ll never have the perfect “glass finish” (at all angles and light) again.

If you (or anyone) can show me how to get that perfect "all angle" glass finish without pouring again... I’ll send you some bucks.


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## coyote97 (Mar 7, 2012)

I'm not really striving for the perfect glass finish. I just would like the finish to be consistent and if I could get a satin finish I would be happy.


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## sevenlol (Aug 8, 2011)

or spend 2 dollars on a scotchbrite pad and try it out....


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## coyote97 (Mar 7, 2012)

I tried the scotchbrite pad last night. It does buff the surface to a mild sheen. It's apparent that any deep scratches will have to be treated differently, either filled with a two part epoxy and then sanded, or just sanding alone. After I used the pad, I sprayed it with a solid surface polisher/cleaner and buffed it. I waited until this morning before I could accurately judge on the result based on evaporation and better light. I have to say that I am fairly pleased with the result, and that it will be acceptable for us. It's not the mirror glass finish, but we really didn't want that anyway with its propensity to show dust, etc.


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## princelake (Feb 19, 2012)

pour some acetone on it and give it a really good rub with a rag. sanding it with a palm sander is the way to go. 
http://blackloon.com/content/products.html?catid=7 are these the type of counters you have? 
if all else fails give them a call


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## coyote97 (Mar 7, 2012)

I have found that using a palm sander with 100 grit on the surface really imbeds the swirl marks to the point where they cannot be removed. What is the purpose of the acetone?


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

If you want to clean it up (like new) you need to pour it again. It's not that difficult if follow the rules. 

You don't mention how large of an area your dealing with but $80 worth of epoxy is (in my area) enough to cover a sheet of plywood worth of surface.

You can not sand an epoxy top and end up with a clear surface.

The best you can do with sanding is ending up with a satin finish and that's using #0000 steel wool. 

It's not going to happen with 100 grit or a scotch bright pad.

You can use auto body rubbing compound and the cloth wheel on a dremel for small scratches and the results may be good enough for you but for a like new finish re-pouring is the only way.


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## coyote97 (Mar 7, 2012)

These tops are not clear and they are not poured. They are black and when you cut them they are gray inside. Deep scratches show as white/gray.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Post some pictures.


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## coyote97 (Mar 7, 2012)

Here are some pictures. Two show the edge finish. The other one depicts one of the larger, deeper scratches.


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## Elisa (Nov 7, 2012)

I have an epoxy countertop that I did myself almost 2 years ago and it still looks fabulous. Every once in a while, someone puts down a plate or a cup with a harsh bottom edge on the counter and it leaves a dent. Sometimes quite deep! I find that during the daytime, when the room is warmer, the dent disappears over the course of a few hours. I'm wondering now about the possibility of you using a heat gun to warm up the area, not holding it in one place for too long, to fill in the gap a little bit without having to use any sanding at all and still leave the glass finish. It's worth a try and can't be worse than scratching it up even more with sandpaper.


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