# floating shelf question



## typo (Dec 7, 2009)

I need to fix a floating shelf i put up a few months ago, it just seems like it sagged too much and it clearly un level now. I currently have a frame that is 34incehs x 13inches deep and is skined in 1/4in lauren. The shelf is currently holding around 30 lbs. do you think if i use three of these brackets with 3 inch screws and mount them to the studs with the above measurements it will hold better?


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17507


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## conudrum (Mar 31, 2010)

Yes.

I haven't used those supports from Rockler but I got some from Louis & Co to do a floating mantel. I think they were rated for 100 lbs per support.


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## typo (Dec 7, 2009)

this site here http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=51933&cat=3,43648,43649 says differ thou. 

"The design ensures that the alloy steel coupling screws remain tensioned between the posts and inserts in the plates, yielding a respectable capacity of 100 lb for a 4" deep shelf and up to 50 lb at 8" deep*."

i need my shelf to be atleast 11inches. But i am hoping to use 3 brackets on 3 wall studs.

i wish i could find these locally and get a good look at them first. And ideas on how i can make this myself?


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## TheCamper (Dec 4, 2009)

I haven't installed any floating shelves with premanufactured hardware; years ago we would make up our own. I figured I would weigh in to let you know that I have used Rockler hinges and draw slides and they are nice products. It would seem that the deeper the shelf the less capacity the brackets are going to support; my opinion based on general carpentry and a lot of cabinet work is that three brackets with a 13" deep shelf should be more than adequate to support 30 pounds and considerably more. Hopefully someone out there has specific experience with these products. good luck.


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## conudrum (Mar 31, 2010)

if you are "skinning" the shelf, why not just secure the shelf frame to the studs with some timber-loks and then apply the luan to conceal the attachments. if you built the shelf frame strong enough you could sit on the shelf:thumbup:.

i have one of those "concealed shelf brackets" in my garage, bought one ($30) to see if'd work. turns out for that bracket you need material that is at least 1" thick and our shelving material was only 3/4". we ended up using a "kreg' jig to pre-drill pocket holes and then screwed the shelves to the wall at the suds. these were not deep shelves (6"?), and they butted into corners where we could get another point of attachment and leve them up.

the other tricky part about those concealed shelf brackets is that you have to drill out 2 1/2 or 3' into the shelf to hold the bracket post, if you don't drill those out level the shelf will be out of level, which looks like crap.:wink:


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## slickgt1 (Apr 1, 2010)

conudrum said:


> if you are "skinning" the shelf, why not just secure the shelf frame to the studs with some timber-loks and then apply the luan to conceal the attachments. if you built the shelf frame strong enough you could sit on the shelf:thumbup:.
> 
> i have one of those "concealed shelf brackets" in my garage, bought one ($30) to see if'd work. turns out for that bracket you need material that is at least 1" thick and our shelving material was only 3/4". we ended up using a "kreg' jig to pre-drill pocket holes and then screwed the shelves to the wall at the suds. these were not deep shelves (6"?), and they butted into corners where we could get another point of attachment and leve them up.
> 
> the other tricky part about those concealed shelf brackets is that you have to drill out 2 1/2 or 3' into the shelf to hold the bracket post, if you don't drill those out level the shelf will be out of level, which looks like crap.:wink:


I completely agree. Getting that hole perfectly straight will require a super steady hand, or a drill press (what I used). Second, you will need to have the shelf thick enough to not damage anything. This system should work as long as you can make these holes dead center. I like making my own cleats, and since I usually make my own shelves, they are all over 1.25" thick. 

I don't know what to recommend really. Maybe some HILTI toggles to help spread the load. They are rated at 100lbs each. Not exactly sure what is making your shelf sag though.


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## typo (Dec 7, 2009)

heres what i have again take it easy i'v never built shelfs before.

its mounted to 3 studs with 3 inch drywall screws. Its not that it sags it that it leans forward. I would greatly appreciate any help.

95% of the weight is centered on the shelf.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

typo said:


> I need to fix a floating shelf i put up a few months ago, it just seems like it sagged too much and it clearly un level now. I currently have a frame that is 34incehs x 13inches deep and is skined in 1/4in lauren. The shelf is currently holding around 30 lbs. do you think if i use three of these brackets with 3 inch screws and mount them to the studs with the above measurements it will hold better?
> 
> 
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17507


Support arms measure 5" long.
Wall brackets measure 15/16" x 1-1/2".

With this bracket design, 15# centered on each of two 5" lg brackets will put ~38# of pullout force on the upper bracket fasteners. Each upper screw of each bracket should be able to resist 20#. With a safety factor of 4, 80# each.

Table 1.7 gives values per inch of screw penetration
http://books.google.com/books?id=l3...l out "wood screws" depth size pounds&f=false
probably with a safety factor ['safe load'?] built in.

The Rockler recommended #8 screw, 2.5" into yellow pine gives 225# for each of two screws.

The burden of making a bracket like this work is on the buyer. And yet, they sell like hotcakes. I guess because they look OK.

This kind of bracket
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Steel-Shelf-Bracket-19-1/dp/B001DT3SYC
puts much less stress on the top screw.


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## typo (Dec 7, 2009)

any other ideas better then those brackets?


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

typo said:


> any other ideas better then those brackets?


Sorry; see edited post.


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