# oiling chain saw



## RoyalAcresRod (May 27, 2009)

Pushing the oil button every 5 minutes or so is a good idea...more if doing heavy cutting.


Do leave a little slack in the chain.. New chains will get loose and need adjusting often..

You'll know when it needs sharpening. As you implied, you'll get to know how it cuts and know when it's not. 

I used to sharpen my chainsaw blades. Now I keep a couple sharpened and take the one in that needs sharpening. You'll find it's easy to replace. Use the opportunity to clean the cover when it's off. 

Watch the orientation of the blades when you replace the chain so you don't put it on backward. Ask me how I know.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You need a good bit of oil on the chain--so press that oiler button every minute or so--you can not over oil the chain---but you sure can burn up a chain in a hurry if it is not oiled---

Learn to analyze the size of the chips--a sharp chain cuts long shreds ---then big chips----and when dull---powder----

I have tried all kinds of sharpening aids----but have settled in on a hand held round file-----


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## daveb1 (Jan 15, 2010)

What Mike said. Touch up the chain with a round file every time you stop for a break.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

I'm thankful for this site. Most often when I go to my big box stores I get a clerk that doesn't know anything. I like to be prepared for that.

If I go to the tool section of the store, will I easily find a round file? 

Maybe I can find a utube video on how to sharpen. The directions that came with my pruning saw have a lot of mistakes, even if I don't know a lot I know they show a diagram for one thing but talk about something else. Or it references one page when the info I need is on another page, so I don't really trust these directions.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Chain saw files are usually for sale right next to the bar oil and other accessories---

If the chain is still sharp (not allowed to get really dull) two to thee strokes --pushing and spinning the file--is all that it takes to keep the blade in top shape---

You will need to practice---keep the angle of the original cut---do not back drag the file----that is bad for the file and will dull your blade,due to chatter---

It's not hard--It would be easier for learn if you had a teacher----But you will figure it out----push the file to cut---do not back drag the file---


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

thanks Mike, sounds like something I could do.

NOW.......on the type of oil. I am suppose to "use motor oil as bar oil is too thick and wouldn't oil properly".

My instructions said use 30 weight motor oil. Then it says use SAE 40 for temps over 75. Probably here in Fla I'll be using this in temps over 75 degrees.

Went to Walmart and all the oil was SAE 5 or SAE 10, but I did find a Castor brand that was SAE 30 so bought that since that was the best option.

Why was SAE 40 hard to find?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Use what the maker recommends--the oil port hole in that saw might be sized for the thinner motor oil---

Bar oil is very thick and sticky----with a gas chainsaw the chain moves faster than the electrics---so the thicker oil does not fly off---

The chain files come in two sizes---your saw ,most likely, uses the smaller one---


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Wow. I love the saw part and easily cut low palm branches off.

Now..........I can't get the saw head attached to the pole 

This is my Remington RM0815P or RM1015P. Will try googling help.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I like the electric chain saws----For most yard maintenance they get the job done---


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Got the saw attached easily to the pole, (once I reread directions).

LOVE IT! But it did tire my arm quickly. Still trying to figure out how to tighten the chain.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Read the instructions!!:laughing:

One or two nuts hold the bar--loosen them a bit---a screw is usually turned to pull the bar forward--then snug up the bar bolts.


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

_*
"One or two nuts hold the bar--loosen them a bit---a screw is usually turned to pull the bar forward--then snug up the bar bolts."
*
_
yes, there are 2 nuts on one side...........and one on the opposite side.
I guess what I don't understand is why I'd loosed the bar, when I want to tighten everything. If I pull the bar forward will I pull it out altogether? 

I'm sure once I figure this out it won't seem so hard.

I can tell a big difference in my yard just from what I've cut back today.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

the bar will slide forward only when you have loosed the side bolts---the adjuster is to delicate to hold the bar when it is running---

look in the instructions--to find the small adjuster screw-----it will be on the blade side of the machine---


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Looked for adjuster screw.........and nothing. I do see how the 2 side bolts hold the blade on and I see the slot on the blade where it can move. The light isn't very good in the garage. Will look at it tomorrow. I really like this little saw, especially that it's so light, but it looks like it's all made of plastic. I also saw a bunch of twigs and leaves stuck up in the saw, near where it's attached to the motor and I used my fingers and a screwdriver and got them all out. Seems like there should be a screen there to prevent that.

Just with what I've done today I feel very mechanical.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Read the instructions----you will need to learn how to service that blade and keep the trash out of the gear head---that is where the oil port is--and it needs to stay relatively clean in order to oil the chain properly.

I'm glad you are enjoying your new tool---do be careful---small twigs and small branched can snag the blade and surprise you----

Also remember to make a cut in the bottom of a branch first----then cut through from the top---this helps prevent the falling branch from ripping the bark off of the trunk-


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

Mike, YAY, Found the chain adjusting screw! Tightened it and made sure it still rolled when I used my fingers to test the tension. 

I'm sort of chain-saw-happy now and shearing everything in sight. Some of the small branches or twigs look like they were chewed off.

My instructions did show a diagram about making an 'undercut' in a branch but thanks for the reminder.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You're happy as a kid with a new baseball glove----have fun---Mike-----


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

I had kind of a crappy day but the last two post put a smile on my face...THANKS!


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## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

Just fyi on the sharpening...

I use a chainsaw sharpening kit for my Dremel. It's maybe $15. You have to be careful not to overdo it, and keep to the correct angle. But it works great. When my saw got a little dull, (usually because I've screwed up and hit dirt which will trash the teeth really quickly), I've used this.

You can totally tell the difference based on the wood chip size, as mentioned. With a fresh sharpening, you immediately see bigger chips flying.

Scott


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## Startingover (Apr 18, 2012)

scott,

I have a Dremel. Thanks.

I looked at the teeth on the chain and it will be 'another' learning experience to figure out how to sharpen.

We've had lots of rain, so I wasn't able to use the saw for a few days. It's so nice to have it to use when I choose rather than renting and having to hurry.


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