# VisionPRO Setup Functions & Heat Pump



## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

I have 2 questions listed below in detail. Following the descrition of my 2 dilemmas I listed my heat pump information & my complete VisionPRO function setup menu settings for reference at the end of the post.

One question is on the setup fuctions in the VisionPRO in reference to the CHP. A very knowledgeable member going by the name :clap:"beenthere" gave me some excellent information so I could install & setup the VisionPRO properly. He also added a possible tweak/change to one of the CHP settings if needed. Upon reveiwing my notes from that chat I find myself unsure as to exactly which function number to adjust, a fewof them refer to the CHP. Excuse my ignorance I come from the land of boilers for heat & no central AC. Heat pumps are a newer animal.

The other question is on the very excessive KWH usage since installing the VisionPRO vs. last year with the old Honeywell t-stat. I must have a setting wrong. Heat strips running alot more in the cold than they did with the old thermostat. Up 1200 kwh compared with same tempeture range last year.

Details for my 1st dilemma:
My KWH are way, way up as compared to last year, during temperatures ranging in the same area as noted below. This temperature and usage information was retrieved from my electric bills. Both the old and the new thermostats were left set to a constant 68 degrees in the winter months with no setbacks.
Jan 2009--------------------------average temp 32 degrees------------------1811 KWH----(old t-stat)
Feb 2009-------------------------average temp 22 degrees-------------------2001 KWH----(old t-stat)
March 2009----------------------average temp 34 degrees-------------------1731 KWH----(old t-stat)
Dec 2009-------------------------average temp 45 degrees-------------------1063 KWH----(new t-stat)
Jan 2010--------------------------average temp 28 degrees-------------------3208 KWH:wallbash:----(new t-stat)
Up 1200 KWH for Jan 2010 (with new t-stat) as compared to Feb 2009 (with old t-stat).
I have not had any lifestyle changes or added any new toys, appliances etc. to the home (I wish). I do notice the heat strips coming on much more often. Last year I noticed the cooler (78 degree) air blowing much more often. Now regularly the air is warmer (105 degree) air blowing. Although this is nicer, reminds you of the days of owning a gas furnace, its way to expensive to continue. I have no problem with dressing inside like its winter time, I do not need to be able to wear a tee shirt inside in January to be happy. Not when it causes my heat bill to go up $100.00+ per month
Do I have one of the installer menus set up incorrectly? Have I made a mistake that is letting the heat strips fire up so often? On the warmer days ( 45 -50 degrees) I don’t find the heat strips engaging often.
I know I can install the outdoor sensor, but isn’t that only going to help on the warmer days to stop the heat strips from firing up? With the old Honeywell thermostat they hardly ever seemed to fire up, many times it was very cold out and they still had not kicked in, although you could make them by raising the thermostat.

Details for my 2nd dilemma:
I have a question on a previous post of mine. I originally asked for help programming the setup functions on the VisionPRO. A really knowledgeable member named “beenthere” stepped in and answered my questions while passing on some great insight & a few good one liners that gave me a laugh, nice touch. I was smart enough to keep a copy of the chat with my heating paperwork for future reference. Now as I review and reread the chat I have a bit of :confused1:confusion. To refresh the chat went as follows:
infoskr:
Looking @ setup function 0240 1st stage CPH, 0250 2nd stage CPH, 0270 emergency heat CPH it looks like Honeywell is prompting me to set these all to 9 CPH. Is this a bit high?
beenthere:
Yea, 9 is way out of line. I generally set cycle rates to 3 for compressor, aux heat and emergency heat. Sometimes, I’ll set the aux to 2, if I want the aux heat to satisfy the heat call and not run the compressor 24/7 when the outdoor temp is below balance point.
Well this is where I am confused . The above refers to which setup function. I thinking 0250 but I am :icon_confused:not sure. Note the functions in blue font on the next page get skipped thru by the thermostat when I go in to review the setup functions menu.
Could you please clarify the above setup function question a bit further so I could utilize the tip.

　
SYSTEM INFORMATION 
Honeywell VisionPro 800 Series Model TH8320U1008-------------(installed 11-30-09)
Rheem Heat Pump (2 heat/1 cool)---------------------------------------Last maintenance/service 09-30-09 
Compressor: Rheem# RPKA-024JAZ
Air Handler: Rheem# RBHA-17J10SFAA
Climate/Location: Allentown, PA
Filters maintained on a monthly basis
*Installer Setup*
*Honeywell Setup Functions Settings & Options*
0160 Schedule format---------------------------------4 7 day programming
0170 System Type-------------------------------------7 2 heat/1 cool heat pump (with aux. heat)
0180 Fan control (heating)---------------------------1 Electric furnace (thermostat controls heating fan)
0190 Changeover valve (O/B terminal)------------1 O/B terminal controls valve in heating
0210 External fossil fuel kit-------------------Not set. Does not apply.
0220 1st stage compressor cycle rate----------------3 Recommended for most compressors
0230 2nd stage compressor cycle rate---------------3 Recommended for most compressors
0240 1st stage heat cycle rate-------------------------3 Hot water sys. & furnaces of 90%+ efficiency
0250 2nd stage heat cycle rate------------------------3 Hot water sys. & furnaces of 90%+ efficiency
0260 3rd stage heat cycle rate------------------Not set. Does not apply. (2h/1c unit)
0270 Emergency heat cycle rate---------------------3 Hot water sys. & furnaces of 90%+ efficiency
0280 Backlight-----------------------------------------0 Backlight on for approx. 8 sec. after keypress
0300 Manual/auto changeover-----------------------0 Manual changeover (Heat/Cool/Off)
0310 Daylight savings--------------------------------1 Auto changeover to daylight savings time.
0340 remote sensor------------------------------------0 No remote sensor
0350 Heat pump compressor lockout---------------0 No heat pump compressor lockout
0360 Heat pump auxiliary lockout------------------0 No heat pump auxiliary lockout
0380 Dehumidification control----------------------0 No dehumidification control
0500 Furnace filter change reminder---------------1 10 day runtime (about 1 month)
0510 Humidifier pad change reminder-------------0 Off
0520 UV lamp change reminder--------------------0 Off
0530 Adaptive Intelligent Recovery----------------1 On
0540 Program periods--------------------------------4 4 program periods 
0580 Compressor protection-------------------------5 5 minute compressor off time
0600 Heat temp range stop----------------------Other 80 degrees
0610 Cool temp range stop----------------------Other 60 degrees
0640 Clock format-----------------------------------12 12-hour time
0650 Extended fan timer (heat)--------------------90 Fan runs for 90 sec after call for heat ends
0660 Extended fan timer (cool)--------------------90 Fan runs for 90 sec after call for cool ends
0670 Keypad lock ------------------------------------0 Keypad unlocked (fully functional)
0680 Heat temp control------------------------------2 Standard temp control (recommended)
0690 Cool temp control------------------------------2 Standard temp control (recommended)
0700 Temp display offset----------------------------0 Thermostat displays actual room temp
0710 RESET-------------------------------------------0 No reset
NOTE: Upon attempting to review all selections made in the setup functions menu I found that the thermostat is skipping viewing of functions 0230, 0240 & 0260.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

I'm gonna guess, that you accidentally skipped 200 when you made your post. And its set to "0" for electric aux heat.

Might want to change 680 to "1". That will help to hold out aux heat.

230 doesn't display because you don't have a seconds stage compressor.
240 doesn't display because its used for straight electric,gas or oil furnaces without a heat pump.
260 doesn't display because you don't have a 3 stages of heat.

Yes, I was talking about second stage heat cycle rate when I said to use 3 CPH.


The TH8320 is a comfort thermostat. So it doesn't let the temp vary as much as your old one did. And it probably had a wider temp difference before it allowed aux heat to come on.

I may have asked before. But, is the hole in the wall where the thermostat wires come through sealed. If it leaves cold air come in, the thermostat will run the heat more often. And go to aux quicker, and stay on longer.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

Hello beenthere! 
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, you are correct I forgot to enter function 0200 in my post. Checked my notes and it is set to "0" Electric Backup Heat.
I will follow your intructions and try changing 0680 to "1" Choose If Room Is Warmer Than Set Temperature.
The hole in the wall where the t-sat wires comes through is definately sealed.
Is ther anything else I can do to hold off the heat strips from kicking in?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

No, not on that stat.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

So did I purchase the wrong T-stat for my system? Was there a better choice?


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

I am finding on days with temps like we are having today in PA. The heat strips are not coming on but I am still going to follow your past advice and install the outdoor sensor. Should I then set function 0360 to" Other 40".


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Yeah. You would want to lock it out at 40 or above.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

Did I make a mistake by putting this model t-stat on my old Rheem Heat Pump? Or any heat pump for that matter?
Is this model of t-stat better suited for a hot water baseboard system or such?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Its a good thermostat.
Its for comfort. And lacking a few things. The Vision Pro IAQ(YTH9421) is a much better thermostat.
It allows you to set much lower lock out temps for the aux heat. Down to 5°F.

And if you don't have an outdoor sensor. It still doesn't bring the aux heat on. Until it determines that the first stage heat, is operating at 90% of its ability to heat the house.

Unless you raise the set temp 2 or more degrees.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

I wish I would have spoken to you first before I made my purchase.
I will look into this t-stat. I can always sell the VisionPRO 8000 Series on Craigslist or something. If this other one will do the job better & save money on electric its worth it. I was expecting the 30% raise in my heat bill due to PA electric deregulation, but not the extra $120.00 for the heat strips.
Last year when we had a month with 22 deg. average temps my bill was $180 for the month.
This month with 28 average temps my bill was $343 for the month.
That t-stat could pay for itself in no time.

If I was to upgrade my heat pump would that t-stat do well for the new heat pumps out there?


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

Just took a look. Nice t-stat. At $198.00 its only about $65.00 more than the one I bought. I guess I did not do enough homework before I purchased this one, its a bit hard when you don't know your type heating system as well as you would like to.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The IAQ is a very good stat for newer high efficiency heat pumps.
Specially ones with VS blower.

On heat pumps with 2 stages of aux heat. The IAQ stages then in using the 90% of load determination.
So it doesn't bring in more then it needs to. So you get the most out of the heat pump.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

All this sounds great. (Looking on net for installation book on this t-stat as I type)
Here is my dilemma. Electrical wiring is not where I shine. Is this t-stat one that I would be able to install considering the module & everything else involved.
Otherwise I will need my HVAC service company to do it & my HVAC company is not going to install a t-stat that I buy. If I purchase from them I will pay list plus the install, which I understand. They are in business to make a profit. So if the install is beyond me then I may have to wait until I change my old Rheem heat pump out or work gets alot better.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

OK lets see if I have this down.
After reviewing the installation manuals for the t-stat & modual on the IAQ it looks like you wire the modual just like the VisionPRO 8320 t-stat and then bring 3 wires from the modual up to the t-stat. Could it really be this simple?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Its an intimidating stat(EIM) to install at first. Because of all the different things that can be controlled by it.

The EIM mounts near your air handler. Often on the return duct.
All the wires that are on your 8320, will connect to the same place(terminals) on the EIM.
Then. You just have to connect the same color wires to the 1,2 and 3 terminal on the EIM and the 1, 2, and 3 terminal on the thermostat.
Plus you have to hook up the outdoor sensor to its terminals on the EIM.
Turn power back on, and configure it.

Plus. No more clicking. All the relays are in the EIM, not the thermostat itself.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

LOL... You posted while I was typing.


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## Stevies3 (Jan 3, 2010)

0160 Schedule format---------------------------------4 7 day programming Same
0170 System Type-------------------------------------7 2 heat/1 cool heat pump (with aux. heat) Same
0180 Fan control (heating)---------------------------1 Electric furnace (thermostat controls heating fan) Same
0190 Changeover valve (O/B terminal)------------1 O/B terminal controls valve in heating Trane would be 0 for me
0200 HP bk up is electric Electric 0
0210 External fossil fuel kit-------------------Not set. Does not apply. 
0220 1st stage compressor cycle rate----------------3 Recommended for most compressors Same
0230 2nd stage compressor cycle rate---------------3 Recommended for most compressors Does not apply 
0240 1st stage heat cycle rate-------------------------3 Hot water sys. & furnaces of 90%+ efficiency Does not apply
0250 2nd stage heat cycle rate------------------------3 Hot water sys. & furnaces of 90%+ efficiency 9
0260 3rd stage heat cycle rate------------------Not set. Does not apply. (2h/1c unit) Same
0270 Emergency heat cycle rate---------------------3 Hot water sys. & furnaces of 90%+ efficiency 9
0280 Backlight-----------------------------------------0 Backlight on for approx. 8 sec. after keypress Same
0300 Manual/auto changeover-----------------------0 Manual changeover (Heat/Cool/Off) Same
0310 Daylight savings--------------------------------1 Auto changeover to daylight savings time. Same
0340 remote sensor------------------------------------0 No remote sensor 2
0350 Heat pump compressor lockout---------------0 No heat pump compressor lockout 15
0360 Heat pump auxiliary lockout------------------0 No heat pump auxiliary lockout 40
0380 Dehumidification control----------------------0 No dehumidification control Does not apply 
0500 Furnace filter change reminder---------------1 10 day runtime (about 1 month) 3
0510 Humidifier pad change reminder-------------0 Off Same
0520 UV lamp change reminder--------------------0 Off Same
0530 Adaptive Intelligent Recovery----------------1 On Same
0540 Program periods--------------------------------4 4 program periods Same
0580 Compressor protection-------------------------5 5 minute compressor off time Same
0600 Heat temp range stop----------------------Other 80 degrees Same
0610 Cool temp range stop----------------------Other 60 degrees Same
0640 Clock format-----------------------------------12 12-hour time Same
0650 Extended fan timer (heat)--------------------90 Fan runs for 90 sec after call for heat ends 0
0660 Extended fan timer (cool)--------------------90 Fan runs for 90 sec after call for cool ends 0
0670 Keypad lock ------------------------------------0 Keypad unlocked (fully functional) Same
0680 Heat temp control------------------------------2 Standard temp control (recommended) Same
0690 Cool temp control------------------------------2 Standard temp control (recommended) Same
0700 Temp display offset----------------------------0 Thermostat displays actual room temp Same
0710 RESET-------------------------------------------0 No reset Same


In red are my settings, I have a Trane HP XR13 & VS air handler & electric backup heat for stage 2. Why do you have water/fossil fuel for 240 & 250 when you have a heat pump that is usualy compressor for stage one & electric for stage 2?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Hybird/dual fuel systems are quite common.
So thermostats have to be able to be set to control boilers and furnaces as aux heat.

250 and 270, I would set both of them to 3. But thats up to you.

I haven't set one to 9 since I can't remember when. And no one has ever been unhappy with 3.

The last time I saw one set to 9. Was on an electric furnace only.
The installer set it to the recommended 9. The customer called in the next day and complained that it cycled too often. I reset it to 3. And they were happy after that.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

Hi beenthere,
Thats exactly the feeling I had after reading the installation on the EIM and the wall t-stat, not as intimidating as I expected.

I am now in the process of reading the manual on the setup functions. Oh no, here we go again. I intend to study it over well and have all the choices down exactly before I attempt an installation.

If changing the VisionPRO 8320 out for the IAQ YTH9421 can bring my KWH usage back near where it was for the past few years the extra expense for another new t-stat would pay for itself in no time at all. Heck I was over $100.00+ extra this month in KWH & Allentown, PA has not been that cold yet this year.

I just want to thank you again for being so helpful & patient with me. I really want to learn & understand my equipment. That way I can maintain it properly & keep it performing at its peak. My HVAC co. will still be visiting my home to do the real brain work. I do know my limitations, but this HVAC is interesting, alot different from a boiler.

If I read the installer setup functions on the IAQ & have questions on proper settings (which I'm sure I will), can I contact you again? 
Please:help:? I do intend to really try to get more of it by myself this time, The time you spent on me was not wasted & I did learn something.

OK this is your chance, hold out :shifty:! Demand yard work, car waxed weekly for the next year, new bathroom remodel, trip to AC, what what :surrender:!! HA HA.

I


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

LOL... Haven't been to AC for a while. 

If you have any questions on it. Just repost in this thread. that way i'll get an email notification.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

By the way beenthere,
Are there any new heat pumps you particularly like right now? Keep in mind I don't own one of those mini mansions. Just a small place. Can not put in a $12,000+ system in a house worth what mine is, unless I stay here forever. My unit is about 12 years old (10 SEER) & the previous owner was of the school of no maintenance. Just my luck.
I have a new evaporator, compressor fan, capacitor & contactor. The reversing valve is starting to make some noise. Don't know that it is worth putting more into this unit. Starting to look at new, but so many out there. 
From what I keep reading it seems that many feel the install is more important than the equipment. Is it the only thing that is important? Hope to choose the right HVAC co. I intend to do my homework but I don't have anyone who's opinion I respect around here to inquire with. Can just ask the companys alot of questions. Don't know anyone who works in HVAC around here to ask either. So I will take it slow.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

With the exception of the reversing valve a couple manufacturers are having trouble with(they switched now that they know of the problem).

Most brands are fairly much the same in reliability.

The expensive Trane 16i is not a good heat pump if you want to save money on heating cost.
The Trane 15i is a very good unit though. And with a VS blower does good on humidity removal in the summer.
Carrier has several good mid grade units. That can meet the tax credit requirements.
York/Luxaire has several good mid grade units also(Luxaire is the same as York, but lower price tag).

If you have average to high humidity in your area. A VS blower. Although more expensive then a standard PSC blower. Is well worth the money for humidity control.

And Allentown ain't a dry town. :laughing:


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

beenthere thank you very much for everything, but you should have held out for the trip to AC! Most people would have:icon_evil:, or at the least made me beg:boat:.

If I may ask how did you get started doing this? Just curious. Feel free to tell me to pound salt or whatever $%#&%^ .


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

Thanks for the info on the new heat pumps. I will look into the ones you mentioned first.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Back in 72 I thought it sounded like an interesting trade. One that maybe you didn't need to study the books for too much. And went to vo tech for it.

Well. I was wrong about the book part. But, its a good and interesting trade.
Lots of learning since then. And lots of furnaces, A/Cs, heat pumps, and boilers installed and repaired. Not to mention thermostats and many other accessories to learn about. 
With lots of continuing education later. I still like it(gee, was I wrong about the book part though :yes.




Did I mention I was wrong about the book part.


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

OK question? Totally off point. Its Friday night & look how many of us are online going over home repairs. Good:yes:? Bad:no:? Or just a sign of the times:huh:?


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## infoskr (Dec 15, 2008)

So you thought there would be no books. With the way everything is changing so fast its sure not working out that way for you is it.

So in since 1972 you have sure seen alot by now :thumbsup:.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

infoskr said:


> So you thought there would be no books. With the way everything is changing so fast its sure not working out that way for you is it.
> 
> Its not that back then I thought there would be no books. I had no idea, it would fill a library though.
> 
> ...


Yeah. I worked on a few coal stokers. Wasn't very good on them though.

Low pressure oil burners(now they were machines. PITA machines, but still a work of art in how thy functioned).

Early heat pumps that could heat a house if the outdoor temp was below 47.

Boilers you can walk into the combustion chamber.

Lots of powerpile gas burners.

And all kinds of strange installs.





> OK question? Totally off point. Its Friday night & look how many of us are online going over home repairs. Good:yes:? Bad:no:? Or just a sign of the times:huh:?


Sign of the times.

50 years ago. It would have been a bunch of the old boys sitting on the front porch talking about it.


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## mike_ (Mar 17, 2010)

*I also was/am? having heatstrips coming on way to much*

Hi, I'm new to the site but have been following this thread.
I have a climate master 3 ton GSHP with 4 -250' wells -closed loop. 2 compressor stages and two sequenced strip heat elements.
Vision Pro IAQ therm. with outside temp sensor. I shot foam in the walls and about 36" insulation in the attic, and put in triple pane windows with coating etc. Its only 1400 sq ft so it should be real easy to heat but strips kept cycling on and off on days when the outside temp went below freezing at night. The therm actual was never ever lower than the set point. Set at 71 and has never moved the only thing that made it vary is when cooking raised the indoor temp 2-3 degrees.

I did find the set up screens and a good sheet to work from. I found 680 and set to least aggressive (1). The settings for 220,230,240,and250 were 3,3,9,9. A question I have is what happens if I set them all to 1's?
I'm looking for the least energy use, not the most comfort. As far as 360 would I set it to 40 or down a LOT lower? I'm also guessing I don't need or want 350 set at anything but 0? 

Is there anything else I can do to keep MUCH more delay between compressor stages and strip heat 1 and two?
thanks for anything you might suggest..
Mike_


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Setting to 1, will bring in the strip heat quicker.

Leave your compressor CPH set to 3.

If the strip is coming on. Then the IAQ is determining that the compressors are at 90% of their capacity.

What you can do, if you don't mind the indoor temp dropping some. Is set your strip lock out temp to 5°. Then if the temp in your house becomes too cold when its 20 outside. Rest the lock out temp to 20. And the strips will come on. And you will know your outdoor temp[ that the strips need to come on for you to be comfortable.

Also, set your strips CPH to 3. Factory setting of 9 is a waste.

Keep in mind that the IAQ stat is a comfort stat. So you won't see the temp drop before it brings on the next stage of heat. under most operating conditions.

Often. When a geo uses strip heat at mild/mid winter temps. Either one of the wells isn't grouted right, the loop isn't piped right, the air filter is dirty, or the duct work is undersized.


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## mike_ (Mar 17, 2010)

*Is there an energy savings stat ?*

Thanks for the info. I will apply it tonight. You call the vision pro a "comfort stat", is there an "energy savings stat" that would be have been a better choice to insure lowest possible electric use?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

There are some that will let you set temp droop. You can set it so first stage won't come on until the room temp drops 1¼°, then second stage won't come on until it drops another 1°, and first stage aux won't come on until the temp drops another ½° and second stage aux until another ¼°. Or along those lines. White Rodgers is one of the companies that makes stats like that.

But, do you really want to set your stat at 70°, and your indoor temp to always be moving up and down? And by as much as 3° when its really cold outside.

Some people don't mind. Others end up setting their thermostat another ° or 2 higher, because they are now cold before the aux heat kicks in if they leave it set at 70.

With the IAQ. Set the aux heat lock out to a temp that requires it to be on(have to find out what that is first of course). Then set the stat temp and forget it.
It will learn the house and heating system and work everything out for its self after that.


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## oldgearhead (Nov 20, 2013)

*IAQ lost It's intellengence*

I have a 5-year-old single stage +1 heat aux, air-to-air, variable speed fan,
Carrier, heat pump. The control system is H'well TH942CT004/ THM5421C.
Sometime last winter the IAQ decided not to display any screen except the 'main' screen. No external t-stats, no humidity, no user program, and no installer's program,
However, the system ran fine for over a over a year.

This heating season because I needed to work on the humidifier I decided to tackle the VisionPro. First I looked up the cost if I called the installer: $199.00 + labor min ($137.00). So I started looking on-line. The lowest one I could find was $129.00, but as luck would have it, I found a new one (battery tab still in place) for $75.00. Note: The VisionPro stat was a couple of months over it's 'limited warranty' date. 

Next, I needed to program it so the first thing I did was to see what equipment was connected to the EIM (THM5421C). I found: 1-compressor0 stage, 1-Outdoor t-stat, 1-fan relay, 1-Stage 1 heating relay, 1-Stage 2 heating relay, and 1-Humidifier contact. 

I programmed the t-stat using the hook-up information plus defaults, and that made it all work, but not very efficiently. 

Then I found this thread! Wow! I made the changes suggested by BeenThere
and I think all is well..Thanks
172= 2
174= 1
176=1
190= 0
200= 0
220= 3
240= 3
300= 0
320= 0
330= 2
340= 0
342= 1
350= 10
360= 40
365= 0
370= 1
372= 1
374= 0
379= 0
skip a few
600= 90
610= 60
640= 12
650= 30
660= 30
680= 1
690= 1

Thanks again..


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## oldgearhead (Nov 20, 2013)

...but why doesn't parameter 270 show up for programming?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Only shows up if you tell it you have 3 stages of heat.


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## tcshop (Nov 15, 2014)

Hi been there. Hope you can help me.
I have 2 new TH8320WF stats installed and trying to set up correctly. I have a Bryant ground source heat pump. Told by installer that I have 2 heat / 2 cooling cycles plus elect strip aux. I do not have outdoor sensor at this time. 
In talking to Honeywell, they told me to use option 7 in function 170. Seems to me maybe it should be option 12? But not certain based on how it is hooked up.
Also, in order to run as efficiently as possible, wondering about:
function 260, set to 3? (220 and 230 set to 3)
Function 346, set to .5? Saw thread this also works for elect aux. 
Function 680, set to 1? Saw thread this would cause strip to come on less?

Located in Montana so we have some cold temps in winter. Needed a wifi tstat so I could check and adjust when not here, replacing original Bryant stat that worked fine, just do not want heat strip going on any more than it did with old stat.

Also, in going to the APP settings I do not see where I can set up the notifications for alerts. I see where to put in email addresses, but nothing more.

Any help is appreciated.


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## tcshop (Nov 15, 2014)

With a TH8320WF, how do I know when / if / how much the heat strip is being used? Have ground source heat pump, 2 stage heat, + aux. Other than a high bill at end of month.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Not really familiar with the wifi stats set ups.


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## tcshop (Nov 15, 2014)

thanks for the reply beenthere. Location is NW Montana.

As far as I can tell, the system setup for wifi tstat is pretty much like the other VisionPro 8000 series. As a DYI and not a pro, just can't find info I understand related to those functions listed.
170 - I assume type 12 (3 stage heat, 2 stage cool, with aux) -even though Honeywell CS told me to use type 7. Literature doesn't seem to support that suggestion.
220 & 230 - I assume 3, the original thermostat installed used 4. Any difference in how efficiently it will operate HP using 3 vs 4?
260 - literature says to use 9, but threads I've read here suggest 3, CPH for aux heat strip
346 - .5 = 30 min, or other suggestion? does this improve use of compressor instead of aux heat?
349 - 0=comfort, vs 1 = economy. Whats the difference in operation?
680 - default = 2, saw thread suggest using 1 to reduce use of aux heat? Good idea or not?

Any help or education is appreciated.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

tcshop said:


> thanks for the reply beenthere. Location is NW Montana.
> 
> As far as I can tell, the system setup for wifi tstat is pretty much like the other VisionPro 8000 series. As a DYI and not a pro, just can't find info I understand related to those functions listed.
> 170 - I assume type 12 (3 stage heat, 2 stage cool, with aux) -even though Honeywell CS told me to use type 7. Literature doesn't seem to support that suggestion.
> ...


Keep us updated on how you like your new stat.


PS: A heat pump with aux electric strip heat is not a dual fuel system, as both the heat pump and strip heat use electric as their fuel. So 200 would be set to 0=Electric, for a geo with aux strip heat.


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## tcshop (Nov 15, 2014)

Thank you beenthere. All makes sense, just one more question on 346. As stated I do not have duel fuel, I have geothermal HP 2 heat / 2 cool plus electric heat strip Aux (so guess considered 3 heat / 2 cool). I saw the following post on this thread, but not sure about best setting for 346 as I'm not clear what it does on my system if used, as I do not have a back up furnace to kick in if HP with aux doesn't do it. The default was 0 = off. Do you know, will setting 346 set to 1 cause the compressor to run at least 30 min before aux goes on? If so, it seems like it might be good to set it at 1, as I do not have a furnace backup that will go on if the HP w aux doesn't do it (related to your comment on setting to 4 for freeze protection - I have a separate gas fireplace on separate tstat set at 50 degrees that will kick on if HP fails). My old tstat had a setting similar that required HP to run at least 25 minutes at highest compressor stage before aux could come on.

Here is quote from the post by ChessM on this thread 3-4-2014 regarding 346. 347 is set to 2.

"0346 - I have found this also works with electric aux heat. Testing shows me that the timer set in 0346 starts when the droop temp (set in 0347) is hit, meaning that you must wait at least 30 min after the droop temp before the AUX heat (oil/gas/elec) [but I have only tested elec] is activated. With elec aux heat, the compressor continues to run with the aux electrical. NOTE: And if you set this to zero (0) thinking the timer would be zero length and AUX Heat would come on at droop setting - that does not work with elec aux, as it never comes on. So I would suggest the 30 min if you want the best control of temp.

0347 - I left at the default of 2 degs."

I really appreciate your help and thoughts on this.


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## tcshop (Nov 15, 2014)

beenthere: SORRY - CORRECTION - "set to .5 not 1?"

"Do you know, will setting 346 set to .5 (30 minutes) cause the compressor to run at least 30 min before aux goes on? If so, it seems like it might be good to set it at .5, as I do not have a furnace backup that will go on if the HP w aux doesn't do it (related to your comment on setting to 4 for freeze protection - I have a separate gas fireplace on separate tstat set at 50 degrees that will kick on if HP fails)." + see message prior for rest of message


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

It will go to aux after 30 minutes of heat call time. However. On a geo, the last thing you want it to do, is go to aux heat by time. other then for freeze protection. On a geo, the au strip heaters on average use 4 times as much electric as the heat pump.

Remember, set as a dual fuel, it won't run the heat pump and aux heat at the same time.


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## Opt-e-Tech (Mar 25, 2015)

re: "Remember, set as a dual fuel, it won't run the heat pump and aux heat at the same time. "

Excellent point and logic! If you do not have fossil fuel aux but you select a non-zero time value for dual fuel then you may have done something unintentional- by setting a non-zero value you have in essence said you do have a dual fuel system which may be in contradiction to prior settings reflecting all electric, i.e. heat pump with electric aux heat. With automation programming it's fair game to derive so pay close attention to the specifics of a prompt. If the prompt is qualified as pertinent to dual fuel but you don't have dual (fossil) fuel then don't respond with a time selection. You may confuse logic which lacks protection against contradiction/conflict with prior specs. Unfortunately that can often lead to unpredictable, seemingly unexplainable, and, or confusing results (behavior). Isn't the digital age wonderful?! Where's the "not applicable" selection? Oh, the user is supposed to realize "0" is "not applicable"? Computing devices rarely make mistakes unless there has been a hardware failure. Programmers, humans, on the other hand, are not as flawless in realizing the understanding of users and, or the pitfalls documentation wording may set a user up for. Could the "0" value have been documented as "not applicable"? Would that have made more sense and given a clue that the prompt really meant it by including "dual fuel" qualification? You be the judge! Enjoy! But pay close attention to specifics, aka. details, in this digital era. Specific qualifications of a prompt are usually very rigid in attempt to compel a properly related response. Think about the context of a prompt in how you want to respond to it- applicable or no?


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