# Primer / Sealer For New Drywall...Which Of My 3 Choices Is Best?



## Dreams

Hi There,

So, just finished getting the taping and mudding done to my new drywall, now it's time to primer / seal the new drywall.

After about a weeks worth of reading on how to and the best brands out there (since everyone agrees not to cheap out at this stage), I have been able to finalize it down to 3 brands of primer or primer/sealer:

ProMar 200 Primer - Sherwin Williams
Insl-x Aqua Lock - Sold at Benjamin Moore
Zinsser GARDZ® Problem Surface Sealer or 123 - Have not been able to track down either yet in Canada

I have seen a few other recommendations for all of the companies listed above e..g Fresh Start by BM etc…but those don't exist in Canada from what I can tell, I need something I would be able to purchase locally (Montreal)

Based on the above 3 choices, I am looking for votes as to which one would be my best option as a high quality product to cover new drywall.
Lastly, the Aqua Lock is a Primer/Sealer whereas the Promar 200 seems to be Primer only…is there a difference or a problem with that?

As always, thanks for the great advice, I have come a long way since visiting this forum, was able to rebuild an entire room from scratch!! 
Finally down to my last step!!


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## conspikuous

I think all those primers are too expensive and overkill to seal drywall. Just get a standard PVA primer designed to seal drywall and mud Save the money for the finish paints, although those primers are better products for certain scenarios, PVA is especially formulated to wet and seal new drywall and you can pick it up from $60 to $80 a 5er.


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## joecaption

Good luck trying to use a cheap primer.
The only hope that paint has to stay stuck to the wall is by bonding to that primer.


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## conspikuous

PVA stands for polyvinyl acetate, the resin system used in the primer. PVA drywall primer was designed for new drywall. This type of primer wets the surface of the wall very well and seals the surface too (probably not as well as a universal acrylic stain blocker—however, it wets the surface of the wall better and is easier to re-coat). 


More $ is not always better. Even the best PVA is not that expensive simply because of the materials needed to the job its designed to do. Never had an interior paint job fail and never used $40 a gallon primer on new drywall either.


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## Dreams

conspikuous said:


> PVA stands for polyvinyl acetate, the resin system used in the primer. PVA drywall primer was designed for new drywall. This type of primer wets the surface of the wall very well and seals the surface too (probably not as well as a universal acrylic stain blocker—however, it wets the surface of the wall better and is easier to re-coat).
> 
> 
> More $ is not always better. Even the best PVA is not that expensive simply because of the materials needed to the job its designed to do. Never had an interior paint job fail and never used $40 a gallon primer on new drywall either.


Would you be able to suggest a few alternate options / brands? What primers have PVA in them that would be better substitutes for the options I suggested? Do you know if the 3 I listed have PVA in them? From what I gather like you said, the options I put down are over kill....so, they are perfect for what I want to do right?, they are just more money than I need to really spend. I just want to make sure if I buy any off those 3 that at least I am looking at the right products.


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## conspikuous

I'll do some research on those products but as far as I'm concerned if it has a big PVA on the label, its good enough for new drywall.


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## conspikuous

KILZ PRO-X 5-Gal. PVA Primer 44 bucks at home slepo

Out of your three product choices I would say the Promar 200 is your best for new drywall but I am still convinced it is overkill and not necassary.

If you were dealing with an older ceiling, some grime, some stains or something I would go with something with different properties but we are talking new drywall.


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## Dreams

Drywall is new on all 4 walls except for the ceiling and closet area, so I will be painting over non new drywall a little, not much but it's still a ceiling and closet. The ceiling is not so bad but the closet has some stains, looks like black smudges from previous owners kids. 
With that being said, and sorry for leaving that part out, is something like the Promar 200 more along the lines of what I need to do 75% new drywall and 25% existing paint?

I prefer overkill sometimes, I don't mind the extra few dollars providing it's not double or something closet it. I will try to see if the products I listed also have PVA if possible.


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## conspikuous

I was looking at sherwin williams product lines. I could not see where this promar had PVA but I also cannot find a PVA from sherwin williams. This promar will work, and will also work for your old stuff too.

Straight PVA is basically worthless over previously painted surfaces.

As far as any stains go, I never have a spray can of killz original too far away from a job. Any stains that show through the primer coat get a little shot of oil to cover em.

One job looked like everything was gonna go in one coat. After I applied the coat, 100's of little smiley faces and stick figures appeared out of nowhere lol, what a wreck that was.


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## Brushjockey

PVA I think was a ok choice 15 years ago. There are so many better choices now. 
And much depends on what the top coats are going to be.
Surprisingly- one outstanding drywall sealer if topping with egg or better is Gardz. Amazing holdout. And can be mixed a bit with most top coats for a little color.
And good for mixed surfaces- which pva is not.


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## housepaintingny

conspikuous said:


> PVA stands for polyvinyl acetate, the resin system used in the primer. PVA drywall primer was designed for new drywall. This type of primer wets the surface of the wall very well and seals the surface too (probably not as well as a universal acrylic stain blocker—however, it wets the surface of the wall better and is easier to re-coat).
> 
> 
> More $ is not always better. Even the best PVA is not that expensive simply because of the materials needed to the job its designed to do. Never had an interior paint job fail and never used $40 a gallon primer on new drywall either.


 PVA primer is garbage and that is why a reputable, experienced painting contractor will not use it as theyknow its garbage. Even though it saves money its not worth using. I've applied 1000s of gallons of SW Promar primer and that would be my choice. 
Primer also promotes uniform color of the paint and proper adhesion of the paint other than sealing the drywall. I would not even accept a project if pva primer was supplied to me.


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## conspikuous

Im a reputable experienced painting contractor and I'm about to use PVA on my own new drywall in my kitchen.


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## Dreams

So, to confirm then, the SW Promar 200 Primer will be a good choice to use on both my new drywall and existing paint? I would like to be able to use the same paint for the whole room regardless if it's over new drywall or old latex.


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## housepaintingny

Dreams said:


> So, to confirm then, the SW Promar 200 Primer will be a good choice to use on both my new drywall and existing paint? I would like to be able to use the same paint for the whole room regardless if it's over new drywall or old latex.


Yes, SW Promar primer can be used on new drywall and previously painted surfaces. After you prime the new drywall you should sand the walls with a pole sander. I like using 120 drywall screen for this. You just want to do a quick sanding and this will leave you with a smoother finish after you paint. It will only take a couple of minutes per wall to sand with a pole sander.


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## Faron79

I'm on the retail end of things here...

I don't even LIKE selling PVA-class primers to people!!!

I use 123 or C2-One primer on new rock.
Even GARDZ is a great choice!
As House & Brush said, these kinda primers have MUCH better "Holdout". 
If you primed half a wall with a PVA primer, and the other half with GARDZ or "123-class" primer, and then painted-

I GUARANTEE you'd see the difference. 
Simple as that (and I'm not saying this lightly).

Faron


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## conspikuous

Im gonna do it. Unless your using a high build primer I honestly don't think their will be a difference. We shall see.


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## Faron79

Cool!!

It's always good to see a real-life test.
Hopefully you'll take pics?!??!

For most FLAT paints, there won't be as big a difference.
The higher the sheen though, the more important a better primer is...

Faron


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## conspikuous

Indeed. Well I have so many types of brands and sheens , the possibilities of sample test are endless lol.

I typically like to do nearly everything in satin. But I think Ill do 3 rows vertically Pva/123/promar
and then flat/satin/semi across them horizontally and yes I shall take pics.

Plenty of leftover drywall in the garage but Ill probably use my kitchen anyway.


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## Faron79

Lookin' forward to it!!

I better get to bed now!

Faron


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## Dreams

Well, I'm just about convinced to go with Promar 200 primer since it will be effective for both new drywall and previously painted surfaces.

I don’t know if I should have mentioned it or not, but the sheen of my paint will between Matt, Satin or Eggshell at the most. I was thinking of Eggshell since that's what I am used to going with but the sales person at BM was telling me that the matt and Satin which are a gloss level down from egg would leave a very nice, modern and easy going finish to the walls so I am contemplating these sheens now.

Part 2 of this question is after primer…I've read some places that if I go with SW I should stick with them as well for the regular paint however I sorta liked what I saw at the BM store while initially looking for primer (and I always loved the color pallet with Behr…especially the Disney colors since this is my 2 year olds room). Will it make any difference at all if I use a good quality Primer like SW Promar 200 then change it up to another company / brand for the actual color? If I go with BM, I will use the Regal or Aura, if with Behr, it would be the Premium Plus line.

Also, crazy question, painting over drywall should be no different than painting over existing paint no, I guess it will just "feel" a little different going over paper vs latex? Someone told me to use different size rollers for primer and paint…one was a 10mm and the other I think 15mm..would this be accurate? Something about how much paint I need to apply to the drywall. 

Like I said, I'm the type to overkill things, even when not needed, or really not needed. If I were to do 2 coats of primer to really start with a perfect white canvas as my starting point, let's say I do 2 coats of Promar 200 to make it perfectly white and even, would that cause me any problems or would they not stick to each other?


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## conspikuous

I can see how the adhesion qualities in a paint would attach better to the adhesion properties of a primer from the same company but I have always passed that off mostly as a sales pitch for paint companies.

From what I have read on these forums in my whole 2 days here is that most people are anti-anything and everything if they sell it at home depot but I think that the behr premium plus is a good paint, but what do I know, I also use PVA lol.

The actual application is not much different over new drywall compared to a painted surface except you can apply slightly more pressure on your roller to new drywall working the material in without the roller slipping.

If your going to go with two coats of primer make sure you allow the 1st coat proper dry time. Some primers needs a while before recoat, and some primers need to be recoated within a certain amount of time. Follow the label. I would take that oppurtunity to really fine tune your mud job. While rolling your first coat you can scan your walls and take note of any flaws and imperfections. Add a little bit of water to your topping compound and go through with a little putty knife fixing any errors, let dry and lightly sponge the edges before applying your second coat.

Choosing a roller nap is based on the texture of the wall. If you have no texture and your walls are perfectly smooth go no bigger than 3/8 nap, 1/4 inch nap, may take a bit longer, but will get you a better finish with less stipple. A 15mm roller on either primer or paint will leave you a pretty heavy stipple texture. Some people like it, some dont. If you have any extra drywall, you could always pick yourself up a couple different size naps and try them out, see what gives you the finish your looking for but smooth wall I would not go bigger than 3/8.

Biggest mistake I see people make when rolling is using all the paint on the roller, dont be afraid to dip that puppy and get more paint. Once you squeeze all the paint out of a roller, it will not fluff back out. Painting a small wall from corner to corner you can apply the paint very quickly and generously not worrying too much about lines and such and then go back over it when the roller has less material, with NO pressure and nice even strokes from top to bottom and lay off your lines.


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## chrisn

Dreams said:


> Well, I'm just about convinced to go with Promar 200 primer since it will be effective for both new drywall and previously painted surfaces.
> 
> I don’t know if I should have mentioned it or not, but the sheen of my paint will between Matt, Satin or Eggshell at the most. I was thinking of Eggshell since that's what I am used to going with but the sales person at BM was telling me that the matt and Satin which are a gloss level down from egg would leave a very nice, modern and easy going finish to the walls so I am contemplating these sheens now.
> 
> Part 2 of this question is after primer…I've read some places that if I go with SW I should stick with them as well for the regular paint however I sorta liked what I saw at the BM store while initially looking for primer (and I always loved the color pallet with Behr…especially the Disney colors since this is my 2 year olds room). Will it make any difference at all if I use a good quality Primer like SW Promar 200 then change it up to another company / brand for the actual color? No
> 
> You can take ANY color sample to either SW or BM and get it matched. I would avoid Behr like the plague
> 
> If I go with BM, I will use the Regal or Aura, if with Behr, it would be the Premium Plus line.
> 
> Also, crazy question, painting over drywall should be no different than painting over existing paint no, I guess it will just "feel" a little different going over paper vs latex? Someone told me to use different size rollers for primer and paint…one was a 10mm and the other I think 15mm..would this be accurate? Something about how much paint I need to apply to the drywall.
> 
> Like I said, I'm the type to overkill things, even when not needed, or really not needed. If I were to do 2 coats of primer
> 
> Not necessary,1 coat of primer is all you need, 2 is just a waste of $$
> 
> 
> to really start with a perfect white canvas as my starting point, let's say I do 2 coats of Promar 200 to make it perfectly white and even, would that cause me any problems or would they not stick to each other?


Use a 1/2 or a 3/8 for both primer and paint


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## Dreams

I just came from a local SW store, was going in to buy their Promar 200 but after a long conversation with the salesperson (who seemed to be doing this a long time), he suggested i actually use their "Multi-Purpose Latex Primer" telling me it's a slightly better product for my needs (both new and previously painted drywall which may or may not contain stains. He said the Promar is thicker primer, but that the Multi Purpose is both a Primer and Sealer (also mentioned on the packaging vs. only primer for the Promar 200) and Promar is more contractor grade paint vs a good quality residential paint.

So, I told him i'd be back and wanted another opinion.

Granted, the Multi Purpose is slightly more expensive, not enough to stop me from buying it though.
So, is the multi purpose really better and if i were to "upgrade" to that, will it still do what i want / need it to do? 
Anyone have any experience with this one?

The multi purpose got very good ratings on their website as well.
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...ringCategory=interior_paint_coatings/primers/

Feedback please! Again, I'm more of an overkill type of guy, is the Multi Purpose just more overkill than Promar 200 or are they completely different?

Once again, thanks for the very valuable info!!


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## Nailbags

I wish people would place were they are from. it would help those who post after the OP give the best advice. I can see from a DIY point of view they only know about thing to four things about paint and primers in order here they are
1 SWP
2 BM
3 behr 
4 Valspar
and what ever else is cheap.
I would love to give advice on some things SWP is great paint as is BM at a premium price. I can recommend some high quality paints for half the price that are not from a box store
Kelly-Moore you want a great Sheetrock primer use 95-102 Pro it is for sheet rock and cost half of what SWP or BM will sell you.


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## lamcmanus

I have a problem, my sister and I scrapped a popcorn ceiling off because it had been painted over and was peeling, so after we got it all off we tried to orange peel the ceiling but it wouldnt stick, so we put kiltz on it and then found that was the wrong thing, so can we put pva over kiltz or do we had to scrap that off 1st?


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## Jmayspaint

lamcmanus said:


> I have a problem, my sister and I scrapped a popcorn ceiling off because it had been painted over and was peeling, so after we got it all off we tried to orange peel the ceiling but it wouldnt stick, so we put kiltz on it and then found that was the wrong thing, so can we put pva over kiltz or do we had to scrap that off 1st?



Why is Kilz the wrong thing? If you mean Kilz2, or another water based version of Kilz that wouldn't be ideal because after popcorn removal, the moisture (assuming you used wet removal techniques) can cause water staining and water based primers aren't very good for that. 

But if that's the case, a PVA primer certainly won't be any better. 

What exactly do you mean by the Orange peel texture "wouldn't stick" ? A pic would help. Sounds like something else is going on.


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## chrisn

starting your own thread would be better yet


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## jeffnc

You might be interested in reading these articles.

http://issuu.com/painthacker/docs/phm_vol1_no1b/29?e=9361967/4924952

http://www.jackpauhl.com/introducing-gardz-by-zinsser/

The long section on drywall primers in the middle of this page
https://jackpauhl.wordpress.com/

I'm not familiar with the Aqua Lock product so I won't speak about it. I can tell you that a product like Gardz that truly seals the drywall is unlike any other alleged "primer/sealer".

If you truly want a good, sealed drywall base (and I'm not saying that's always necessary), then apply Gardz and lightly sand. You can tell the difference because when painting, your paint will glide very smoothly, you'll get higher coverage, and the paint will seemingly take forever to dry. These are not bad things when it comes to the final result (although the longer drying time might be a problem in some cases.) This is because the wall is truly sealed, and the paint can't dry backwards through the drywall.

I don't normally prime with Gardz, but even so I don't always prime anyway, because it can be the same or worse than just painting with modern paints over bare drywall. I do sometimes use primer but it depends on other reasons than "just because" that's the way it's always been done.

I always use Gardz when
a) I'm sealing damaged drywall
b) I'm sealing in after removing wallpaper

I sometimes use Gardz when I have a wall with very high porosity or varying porosity and I want to paint with a sheen that I feel requires a truly sealed base.


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## AlphaWolf

here are 2 primer i have used as of late from Dulux. I live in Canada as well

LifeMaster Primer. Kind of expensive. Almost over kill IMO
http://www.dulux.ca/pro/products/primers/dulux-lifemaster-primer

X-pert Primer My more of a go to primer for the price and quality
http://www.dulux.ca/pro/products/primers/dulux-x-pert-primer


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