# Which comes first...door or tile?



## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

I am framing out a new wall to separate my heater from my laundry room. Do I install door frame for a bi fold before or after the tile is installed? I also have to install a new door for between my bathroom and laundry room. I will be tiling into both rooms with the same tile.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

You can do either/or. 

Personally, I find it easier to install the tile first, then come back and install the entire door set up together (Jambs, casing, bi-fold doors, mounting brackets/hardware, etc).


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## LakeTahoeDan (Feb 18, 2008)

gone_fishing said:


> I am framing out a new wall to separate my heater from my laundry room. Do I install door frame for a bi fold before or after the tile is installed? I also have to install a new door for between my bathroom and laundry room. I will be tiling into both rooms with the same tile.


I always install hardy backer first then doors, then tile. Most prehung doors are made to accommodate the clearance needed for door swing over tile/carpet etc.

Most importantly, if you need to shim one jam leg up off the floor to make the head level then the gap is covered by mortar and tile.

You get a much cleaner look this way. After tile come back and trim/case the doors.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

LakeTahoeDan said:


> ...Most prehung doors are made to accommodate the clearance needed for door swing over tile/carpet etc.
> 
> Most importantly, if you need to shim one jam leg up off the floor to make the head level then the gap is covered by mortar and tile.
> 
> You get a much cleaner look this way. After tile come back and trim/case the doors.


I thought that the OP stated that they are installing a bi-fold foor arrangement, not a pre-hung set?


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## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

I will be hanging two pre hungs and a bi fold.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

gone_fishing said:


> I will be hanging two pre hungs and a bi fold.


In that case, the advice given about installing the pre-hungs before tile is good. If you install your jambs and casings for your bi-folds first, then make sure that you allow for the height of the bi fold door panels, the upper glide track, all the pivot-hardware of the door, and also the "L" shaped lower pivot-bracket's height.

Good Luck.


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## LakeTahoeDan (Feb 18, 2008)

AtlanticWBConst. said:


> In that case, the advice given about installing the pre-hungs before tile is good. If you install your jambs and casings for your bi-folds first, then make sure that you allow for the height of the bi fold door panels, the upper glide track, all the pivot-hardware of the door, and also the "L" shaped lower pivot-bracket's height.
> 
> Good Luck.


It sure does suck having to cut a new door doesn't it!

new signature idea: "always know your elevations" (especially when cutting in stairs)

The prefhung 6pnl pine and alder doors I install regularly are ~1" short of the bottom's of the jamb legs. So this is usually more than enough clearance for mortar and tile.
I suppose if timing is not right I just shim off the subfloor accordingly and then cut the hardy backer around the jams.

here is a recent double pocket I did:


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## hammer (Feb 18, 2008)

I would install the hardibacker , then the pre-hungs, then the tile and then go back and install the bi-fold


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

LakeTahoeDan said:


> Most importantly, if you need to shim one jam leg up off the floor to make the head level then the gap is covered by mortar and tile.


A gap for this should not even come into play IMO, because the jambs should be undercut so that the tile will slip under them. Nothing screams "did not know how to do it" project more to me than grout lines around door jambs resulting from trying to cut the tile around all the offsets.


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## LakeTahoeDan (Feb 18, 2008)

troubleseeker said:


> A gap for this should not even come into play IMO, because the jambs should be undercut so that the tile will slip under them. Nothing screams "did not know how to do it" project more to me than grout lines around door jambs resulting from trying to cut the tile around all the offsets.



that looks like crap having imperfect surfaced tile pushed up under a perfectly cut jamb leg. Might work for porcelain tiles etc but not for ceramic tiles with rough textures.

I do all stain grade and putty, bondo and paint is not an option


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

LakeTahoeDan said:


> ....I do all stain grade and putty, bondo and paint is not an option


...Even when the job calls for painted Trim? That's a waste of money on stain grade stock...


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## LakeTahoeDan (Feb 18, 2008)

I have never had a job that called for painted trim it is all stains, sand sealers etc. 

If I did have I paint grade job I would not be using VG Firs, Knotty Alder etc.


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## gone_fishing (Jan 5, 2008)

No hardie backer either...this is on concrete.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

LakeTahoeDan said:


> I have never had a job that called for painted trim it is all stains, sand sealers etc.
> 
> If I did have I paint grade job I would not be using VG Firs, Knotty Alder etc.


If we have alot of standard paint-grade fabrication, I prefer to use Windsor One for stock, and premium paint-grade trim.


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## Flipper (Feb 9, 2009)

*Door Jamb or tile??*

I too have the same question, which comes first door jamb or tile??:confused1:


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## angus242 (May 1, 2008)

Flipper said:


> I too have the same question, which comes first door jamb or tile??:confused1:


I do tile first.


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