# Plasma Mount into Metal Studs



## davewolfs

Hello all,

I plan on purchasing a 50" Plasma that weighs approximately 76lbs with speakers. Before purchasing I want to make sure that I can safely mount something like this to a wall with metal studs. That being said, what precautions must I take when mounting a TV this size to a wall with metal studs and what would be the most secure method to do this?

I have read some post where users are simply using Toggle bolts, Others suggest drilling 1/2" plywood to your studs and mounting directly to this. I do not know what method is correct so hopefully some of you folks can provide me with some insight.

Best regards,

Dave


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## ktkelly

I've only had to do this once (commercial install).

I cut out the sheetrock in the area that was going to be behind the PDP. 

I drilled 7 equally spaced 1/4" holes through the plywood. Using the plywood as a template, I marked and drilled 3 of those 1/4" holes through the metal studs. 

Mounted the plywood directly to the metal studs, securing it with 6 toggle bolts and then filled in between those with self tapping lagscrews (toggles and self tappers had oversize washers).

Mouted the PDP to the plywood and it was nice and solid.:yes: 


A nice thing about opening up the wall to install the plywood?

Makes it very easy to fish the needed cables ....


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## davewolfs

ktkelly said:


> I've only had to do this once (commercial install).
> 
> I cut out the sheetrock in the area that was going to be behind the PDP.
> 
> I drilled 7 equally spaced 1/4" holes through the plywood. Using the plywood as a template, I marked and drilled 3 of those 1/4" holes through the metal studs.
> 
> Mounted the plywood directly to the metal studs, securing it with 6 toggle bolts and then filled in between those with self tapping lagscrews (toggles and self tappers had oversize washers).
> 
> Mouted the PDP to the plywood and it was nice and solid.:yes:
> 
> 
> A nice thing about opening up the wall to install the plywood?
> 
> Makes it very easy to fish the needed cables ....


This seems to be like what a few people have recommended. Unfortunately, I don't know how my wife is going to handle the idea of me ripping out that big a chunk from the wall 

I have a few questions.

1. How big should the piece of plywood be in comparison to the actual mount? What type of wood should I use? For the outlet and AV cables, did you cut a whole for your work box in your plywood, or did you make additional holes in the sheetrock itself above your ply?

2. If for some reason I cannot cut the sheet rock out, can I simply mount a piece of wood directly to the drywall and into the studs? Then screw the lags into the wood?

3. There is actually a closet behind where I want to put the TV. If the mount lines up properly with the closet, should I consider using long lags that go through both walls and drill directly into 2x4's braced against the closet wall?

Thanks again!


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## gregzoll

External Grade will work. And yes, you can mount it on the outside of the sheetrock, but just make sure that you secure to the studs 100%.


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## ktkelly

davewolfs said:


> This seems to be like what a few people have recommended. Unfortunately, I don't know how my wife is going to handle the idea of me ripping out that big a chunk from the wall


Just tell her how it's going to be, keep your woman in line....:laughing: (be prepared to experience great pain).




> 1. How big should the piece of plywood be in comparison to the actual mount? What type of wood should I use? For the outlet and AV cables, did you cut a whole for your work box in your plywood, or did you make additional holes in the sheetrock itself above your ply?


I used a piece of plywood that was about 2" larger than the mount. And I cut out a hole for a Panamax MIW-POWER w/MIW-5RCA (remember, your cabling *must* be in wall rated).



> 2. If for some reason I cannot cut the sheet rock out, can I simply mount a piece of wood directly to the drywall and into the studs? Then screw the lags into the wood?


Yes, you could. But I feel like it's easier to open up the wall. Gives access if you need to upgrade cabling in the future and when you move it's an easy sheetrock repair.



> 3. There is actually a closet behind where I want to put the TV. If the mount lines up properly with the closet, should I consider using long lags that go through both walls and drill directly into 2x4's braced against the closet wall?


That would probaly not be a bad idea. Although it may be overkill.

What I would do is install an electrical outlet in that closet (tied to the one behind the PDP), place your source equipment in the closet and get a good RF remote to control it.

The boss (wife) will be really happy if she has less TV/Stereo junk in "her" room....:yes:


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## davewolfs

Thanks again for the reply.

I again have a few questions 

1. Regarding the cabling. Must low voltage cabling must also be rated for in-wall? i.e. HDMI cables?

2. I have also noticed that some folks use special toggle bolts and simply put them in directly to the metal studs i.e. attach the mount to the studs via toggle bolts. Is this in anyway as secure as the approach you have suggested?

3. Do you recall the sizes of the lags and toggle bolts that you used?

Thanks again!

Dave


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## gregzoll

Yes, you should use the proper wiring for inwall, and if you can, use conduit to pull it through.


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## davewolfs

What would be the appropriate screws to attach the mount into the piece of 1/2" ply. Anyone?


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## troubleseeker

Two questions from me. Can you accurately locate the studs ( this should be fairly easy) and do you know if the a just drywall (25 ga) or structural gauge material? If they are structural, I don't see why you can't drill a 1/2" hole through the flange and use toggle bolts directly into the studs. The vertical mounting bars on the brackets I have seen are long enough that you should be able to get three bolts in each one , all based on the wall studs being a decent gauge. Eighty pounds is not a lot of weight for four or six 3/16" toggles to support, especially through a piece of metal,


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## davewolfs

troubleseeker said:


> Two questions from me. Can you accurately locate the studs ( this should be fairly easy) and do you know if the a just drywall (25 ga) or structural gauge material? If they are structural, I don't see why you can't drill a 1/2" hole through the flange and use toggle bolts directly into the studs. The vertical mounting bars on the brackets I have seen are long enough that you should be able to get three bolts in each one , all based on the wall studs being a decent gauge. Eighty pounds is not a lot of weight for four or six 3/16" toggles to support, especially through a piece of metal,


I have no idea. What do most homes use? 25GA, I am guessing it is probably that.


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## dtl1232

Never Put A Plasma On Metal Studs. I Am A Firedog Tech With Thousands Of Installs And The Ones That Go Bad Are Metal Studded Installs.find Another Wall That Is Wood Studded


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## ktkelly

A "Firedog" tech with thousand of installs?:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: 


*Amazing!*


You must be very, very busy, since the CC "Firedog" program (Established Sept. 06) wasn't officially launched until December 06.

So, you're doing how many installations per day? I guess you never sleep?

After all, if you've done *thousands* of installs, you must be working 24 hours a day.

I gather that those poor people who have steel framed homes can't hang a PDP on the wall? That so?


I'm sorry, Firedog "Tech", but your utterly idiotic comment has exposed the fact that *you don't have a clue*. You need to go back to the store and dispense your incorrect advice to those unsuspecting fools that happen into the CC branch where you work.


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## bujaly

Sorry, but I didn't read all posts here, so if i repeat, sorry.
I just installed one. I just went to home depot and bought the heaviest duty drywall anchors they had and put 10 in. Holding up just fine too..
The pain in the arse part was hiding the wiring...


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## ktkelly

Mitch the Handyman,


*Surely you jest*.

Maybe it'll hold, maybe it won't.

It is your flat panel though. If you feel it's safe, then more power to ya....


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## bujaly

Hell yeah my man. I was pullin and tuggin on that thing before i hung the tv. It also wasn't a 76lb tv. Also, whoever built the house, put the studs at 24" on center???? Don't ask me!!! And where i wanted the tv to go was smack dab in the middle of those studs, wouldn't ya know. 
So yes, i feel it is safe. Plus, the anchors I used boasted that they would hold 50 lbs with just one anchor, i put TEN in. Now, I don't know about having them so close together, but surely toggle bolts are a mere similarity.


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## mediatech

*Hangin' on Metal Studs*

I have hung several plasma's and flat screens on walls with metal studs. I have used toggle bolts with great success. The key is finding the exact center of the metal stud - drilling a pilot hole - then drilling one big enough for the toggle bolt to fit through. I have also had luck with cutting the drywall behind the mount itself - the bracket part that fastens to the wall - and actually reaching in to use a simple bolt with a nut! Of course, you need to figure out which way the stud is located so you can determine if you will have access to the open side. I did this by looking in the ceiling (suspended tiles). When I was done, I had the mount securely bolted to the drywall and fastened with a hex bolt with a lock washer and nut inside the wall. The opening I made for fastener access also provided a great way to run my cables to the equipment. I hope this helps! :thumbup:


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## lkung

*Metal Furring Strips*

Has anyone mounted a plasma/lcd to metal furring strips? I'm installing a 47" at my office and discovered yesterday that the drywall is mounted to metal furring strips instead of metal studs. I had planned on using toggles but the furring strips are only 1" deep, and I'm not sure if the toggles will have enough depth to get pushed through and open. The depth also forces the max length of the bolt to be pretty short. Any ideas!

Thanks!


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## gregzoll

You need to secure either 2x8's in the wall, or 3/4" exterior grade Plywood to hold the mounting bracket. Bolts or Mollies in the Drywall, will not secure the mounting bracket properly.


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## lkung

Gregzoll, thanks for the quick reply!



gregzoll said:


> ...or 3/4" exterior grade Plywood to hold the mounting bracket.


How would you mount the plywood to the metal furrings? Keep in mind that the furring strips only have about 1" depth.



gregzoll said:


> Bolts or Mollies in the Drywall...


I don't intend to try mounting only to the drywall. However, I've seen/heard of others having success with toggles when they're stuck with metal studs. I was wondering if anyone had success with metal furrings (instead of studs).

Thanks!


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## gregzoll

You will place it on the studs, and secure with screws made for Metal Studs. Otherwise, you will have to sister a 2x4 on either side of the Metal Stud in the wall, recover with Gypsum Board, and mount the Ply on the Studs to show through. Once the TV is mounted, you will not see the Ply if the correct size to not be larger then needed for the mounting bracket.


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## plasmamounts

*Quality/Design LCD brackets*

hey hi guys 

anyone looking out for the best plasma mounts can check out here because when i was online i have found a company which can provide you the best metal studs . you can also find many different brackets according to your models.


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## robertadamonyc

*Samsung 50 inch plasma mounted to metal studs*

Walls are 3/4 inch plasterboard mounted to 25 ga studs. I am using a 1"x12"x10' pine board (Home Depot-$12.00), 10 1/4" toggle bolts. I will hit 5 studs with 2 toggles each then mount the bracket to the pine. The alternative would have been a 6X8 1/2" plywood hitting 4 studs with 3 toggles each. The pine looks better and the shear weight is spread out enough across the 10 bolts. 80 pounds or so should not pull the wall down (http://www.diychatroom.com/images/smilies/laughing.gif) I weigh 220 and will hang and pull on the thing before I mount the TV just in case.


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## johnnydanger

I did one install at work with metal studs. The wall mount kit was for wood studs and it didn't span wide enough to go from one stud to the next. I believe the metal studs were 22"-24" apart. 

What I did: 
-I took a piece of 6" x 28" flat stock and drilled 3 holes on each side at the stud length.

-Then I welded the bracket that came with the kit to the flat stock. 

-Primed and painted the new bracket.

-Here's the scary part. I used 3/8 hex headed self tapping screws at 2" long to mount it to the studs. 

This install was in a cafeteria and it's still working great. But if you can access the back side of the stud put a real bolt in it with a nut on the back. (If you have drop ceiling access or something).


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## firehydrant dog

*My Bad*

How do I know if there are studs in my wall? What is a studfinder? Can somebody help? Maybe I should hire someone. :laughing: Ya Think? :laughing:

Where can my dog find a firedog tech? He likes to leak on everything.
..... My dog that is.


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## AllanJ

The problem with screws into metal studs is that the threading made by the screws' self tapping the sheet metal can strip and then the whole thing (the plasma TV) falls.

Hence the suggestions of using nutted bolts or toggle bolts for hanging something heavy on the wall.

Also, more ordinary screws (quantity wise) compared with installing on wood studs can work although I don't know how many more are needed.

The screws highest up on the wall take the majority of the stress. If you are solving the problem by using "additional" screws, bunch them a little higher up (but at least the bolt hole diameter plus one inch apart) as opposed to spacing them evenly. Never omit screws from the topmost holes in the bracket even if you make up for them with more screws further down.


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