# New Drywall Joined with Old Drywall



## quinocampa

I am remodeling a bathroom, and I only removed drywall where necessary. I have new drywall butting against existing walls and ceilings. I need advice on how to finish the joints between new and old. The existing ceiling is textured, and I'm expecially concerned about that area. Specifically, I'm assuming I have to tape the joint, so how do I do it? The existing ceiling is built up with compound and texture. Attached is a photo showing typical joined surfaces.

Thank you!


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## AllanJ

Hack away at the edge of the built up compound and texturing layer on the ceiling until you have room to put on the tape. But try to minimize breaking or tearing or peeling of the paper layer on the drywall. The new compound you add will conform to the surface with old compound residue here and there. Put down a generous layer of compound first so the tape does not have to do so much conforming and wrinkling.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Try to scrape the texture off, to allow the width of your seam tape to sit flush to the old drywall surface. Apply seam tape to the seam. Wipe down per standard method. Do not over wipe, do not under wipe. There will be a noticable difference with the two sheet's surface thicknesses (new vs.old). This is fine. The point is to seal the seam. The applied seam tape will do this, regardless of the surface height difference.

Once the tape dries, coat one side of the tape even with the thicker side. You will have to spread that coating outward (on the new sheetrock side), to blend the difference in height, and create a gradual change.
Allow this filler coat to dry completely. Repeat this step if needed.

To make the transition less noticable, the area will need to be widened out. This creates a slight rise over a wider transition, as opposed to a discernable hump. So the coats will be like this:

1.) Filler coat. Let Dry
2.) Additional filler, coat - not as thick - if needed. Let Dry
3.) Thinner, wider coat, which overlaps the previous coats. Let Dry
4.) Possible a fourth even wider coat, if this amount of blending is needed.

Allow each coat to fully dry. As a newbi, you should lightly sand between coats.


Good Luck!


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## quinocampa

*Thanks*

Thank you, your advice is very sensible. I've already sanded down the textured ceiling in the tape area with a grinding bit in my Dremel. Worked well enough and fast. The new texture should hide any humps. The butting on the wall will mostly be behind a curtain, so I'm comfortable there as well.


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## Termite

Butt seams like that are why they sell trowel-type taping knives that are about 12-14" long and have a slight curve in them. That makes feathering the joint out easier.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

thekctermite said:


> Butt seams like that are why they sell trowel-type taping knives that are about 12-14" long and have a slight curve in them. That makes feathering the joint out easier.


Good point that I forgot to add. When applying the coats that I spoke about, use at least a 12" Trowel, or taping knife - NOT a 6" knife.


Thanks KCT.


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## bjbatlanta

You could also add another layer of drywall to the ceiling, eliminating the texture altogether......


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## quinocampa

bjbatlanta said:


> You could also add another layer of drywall to the ceiling, eliminating the texture altogether......


I'll consider this as Plan B if I screw up with matching the existing texture. It's a simple stomp, so I think I'll be okay. Famous last words. I have many other challenges ahead though -- heated floor, 3 fixtures in the shower, new toilet, granite shower walls, cabinets to hang. I LOVE DIY!! I'll be a real man when I'm done.


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## bjbatlanta

Exactly. Sometimes it's hard to get an good match to the pattern........


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## AtlanticWBConst.

bjbatlanta said:


> You could also add another layer of drywall to the ceiling, eliminating the texture altogether......


Good alteranative - suggestion. That might be the better option for a newbi taper....


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