# Wiregrass and Crabgrass



## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

In my opinion, you should not be using weed killer chemicals near the water. Eventually, the lake will become polluted, and fish, etc will die off.

I would recommend covering the bad grass with an opaque (doesn't let the light through) tarp for a couple of weeks, so that the grass dies.

Then, turn it under, and plant the new grass in the new soil.
Sod would be your best bet, since it doesn't take time to grow in.

Just my opinion.
I hate lawn and garden chemicals.

FW


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

Where to start?



> I spray Bayer weed killer for grass and it barely makes a dent -


Do I understand that you using the Bayer weed killer to control the wiregrass? Is this product not for "broadleaf" weeds that are present in your grass (lawn)? 



> use it too much and it kills the grass.


I do suppose that you can overdose enough to do that.



> The annual infestation of Crabgrass


Crabgrass is not an "annual" infestation.



> I use the barrier Scotts Crabgrass treatment every march.


Are you aware that pre-emergents have about a 12 week control window? I applied Treflan in February. It stopped working two months ago. So I re-applied a couple of weeks ago when I started having to pull weeds out by the 5 gallon bucket full.



> I need to get some heavy crabgrass areas killed off and get some grass in there


Well, you could use some MSMA crabgrass killer. Or you could use some glyphosate- it is deactivated by bacteria in the soil (and water) and should be safe near your lake. Just apply properly.
READ ALL LABELS for indicated uses near waterways.

One plan-
Kill all the weeds by whatever method you are comfortable with. Re-seed the area. With fall coming on you are at a good time. Irrigate properly. Next year, late winter/ early spring apply the appropriate pre-emergent and fertlize properly.


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## Tess (Aug 3, 2009)

One plan-
Kill all the weeds by whatever method you are comfortable with. Re-seed the area. With fall coming on you are at a good time. Irrigate properly. Next year, late winter/ early spring apply the appropriate pre-emergent and fertlize properly. (Quote from Downunder)


KE2KB said:


> I would recommend covering the bad grass with an opaque (doesn't let the light through) tarp for a couple of weeks, so that the grass dies.
> 
> Then, turn it under, and plant the new grass in the new soil.
> Sod would be your best bet, since it doesn't take time to grow in.
> ...


I did something kinda like these suggestions about ten years ago and it worked out well. Covered a section of the yard for about two months with black plastic. Removed it and loosened the top layer and raked/picked out anything that looked like it might possibly grow or harbor a viable root or seed. Then seeded with my grass and followed up later with whatever maintenance products--seems like it was 3 or 4 months later that I started that. Back then my yard was teeteeteeny and I didn't want to risk harming my flower and veggie gardens. 

There was an area by a fence in that same yard that I wanted to make a shade garden. But it just wanted to be wild because the neighbor's yard was overgrown and wild. It wasn't worth the time or the cost to battle that and in the end I planted a vine that looks like a wild clematis that grows in these parts by the river in the middle of the mess to make it appear that the patch was intentional to showcase the native plant. 

Good luck with however you decide to tackle it.


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