# steel door sticking in frame



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Tough call. The door is likely sticking due to some sort of settlement or movement of the walls that the frame is attached to. Honestly, until that problem is solved, grinding or filing the door down is really your best bet.


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

Try shimming the hinges. cut some 1/4" strips from a cereal box and insert them under the edge of the hinge closest to the stop. Then tighten the hinge screws securly. That will cock the hinge leaf back a little and pull the door. If necessary, you can shim the leaf on the door and the jamb, but be careful not to cause the hinge to bind. Depending on where in the jamb it's binding will determine which hinges to shim.


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## bruce_hyman (Dec 16, 2008)

Maintenance 6 said:


> Try shimming the hinges...


that's an interesting idea. it moves the barrel of the hinge away from the jamb. i will try to check clearance on the hinge side of the door before doing this. and i will have to support the door firmly before doing any of this, or i could screw up the door alignment (which i did on an interior door, and created a storm of steel dust on the carpet!)


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Is the door connected directly to the blocks or is there some wood framing that the jamb is attached to?? If there is wood, you could try some long screws through the hinges into the framing to pull the door over a bit. Most of the exterior doors I've installed come with a couple of 3" screws for this purpose, but some people don't bother to use them.........


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## Maintenance 6 (Feb 26, 2008)

bjbatlanta said:


> Is the door connected directly to the blocks or is there some wood framing that the jamb is attached to?? If there is wood, you could try some long screws through the hinges into the framing to pull the door over a bit. Most of the exterior doors I've installed come with a couple of 3" screws for this purpose, but some people don't bother to use them.........


The OP says it's a steel door in a steel jamb in a block wall. I'm assuming it's a hollow metal jamb with mud tabs mortared to the block, so it's not going to move.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Sorry, read the post too quickly. You're probably right 6. I don't think they make a knock down jamb for block, so no adjustment screws.......


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## iMisspell (Jun 2, 2007)

bjbatlanta said:


> ...Most of the exterior doors I've installed come with a couple of 3" screws for this purpose, but some people don't bother to use them.........


Funny, last month i installed a 6' french doors.
When i opened the package i was like what the hell are these for (the long screws) ??? 
One door was slightly out of plumb and while i kicked the plastic bag (with the screws in it) i was like... bingo :laughing:

The simple things you learn.
_


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## Speedball (Nov 2, 2008)

Great idea 6.............Shimming with laying toothpicks in there creates a perfect thickness, have done it for years.


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## bruce_hyman (Dec 16, 2008)

*i think i have to live with it...*

it's just as tight a fit between the door and the hinge side of the frame so there is nothing to be gained by trying to shim the jamb edge of the hinge - but it's a great idea in some applications. i think i will try a combo of filing the inside edge of the strike side of the door (the part that closes last, seen from the inside), and not slamming the door the last 1/32 of an inch closure. 
many thanks to all the posters, and happy holidays to all of whatever persuasion!


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## Sammy (Mar 11, 2007)

Has the door always been this hard to close or is it something that started recently?

Your saying that the door is tight/hitting on both sides of the frame?

Measure the door width top, middle, and bottom and then do the same again on the frame. Normally the frame is 1/4" total wider than the door to give you 1/8" clearance on each side of the door.


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