# Rotor replacement or not yet?



## newbii (Apr 11, 2021)




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## newbii (Apr 11, 2021)




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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

newbii said:


> Sorry if my question sounds dumb I'm not a mechanic, just a newbie. Could anyone please tell if its time to replace my rotor or is there still life remaining?
> Thank you so much in advance.


 Nothing, I see nothing.

Without a view, or measurements with a micrometer, we know not a danged thing.



Ok, now you have pictures.
ED


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## newbii (Apr 11, 2021)




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## newbii (Apr 11, 2021)

de-nagorg said:


> Nothing, I see nothing.
> 
> Without a view, or measurements with a micrometer, we know not a danged thing.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your reply. I guess i need to buy a micrometer.


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

I find rotors are cheap enough that it's not worth having the old ones turned (if they can be turned). I just replaced the brakes all the way around my pickup, rears on the wife's Mazda and the daughters Jeep Cherokee over the last month. I put all 4 calipers on my truck as well. New rotors on everything.


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## Octane (Feb 13, 2021)

newbii said:


> Thanks for your reply. I guess i need to buy a micrometer.


If those are heat cracks then I would replace.As far as where they're at on minimum thickness take them to autoparts and have them measured.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

It appears to have been HOT a few times, but does not look worn down.

How thick is the remaining pad material?

Get some glaze remover, and clean them up well, then decide if you want to replace, or go for a few thousand miles more.


ED


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Mike Milam said:


> I find rotors are cheap enough that it's not worth having the old ones turned (if they can be turned). I just replaced the brakes all the way around my pickup, rears on the wife's Mazda and the daughters Jeep Cherokee over the last month. I put all 4 calipers on my truck as well. New rotors on everything.



Usually a wise decision, your safety is tantamount, and you want to be able to shut-er down pronto.

ED


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## newbii (Apr 11, 2021)

Thank you so much everyone for your input. I greatly appreciate all your help and advise. 🙂
Happy Father's day! 😊


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## LawrenceS (Oct 21, 2020)

newbii said:


> View attachment 655635


What do we have here like a 14-15 civic ex rear rotor it looks like.

Can they be resurfaced, probably, but it won't be a great result that rusting towards the outer edge has eaten away at the rotor and would take multiple cuts to remove enough material to hit solid metal, could you get away with leaving it a rusted/pitted on the outer edge after 1-3 cuts, probably, can you get decent new rear rotors for less then a a shop would charge you to machine them, most likely. The other issue is if those are civic rear rotors, the hub they sit on isn't solid it has holes in it to reduce weight, which causes the inside of the hat of the rotor to develop thick rusted circles that would need to be ground off otherwise it won't sit flush on the brake lathe which effects how well they cut.

Assuming I got the vehicle correct or close, Centric 12040040 are 16.67 each on rockauto, I've had good luck with the centric rotors and their coatings on the non contact area's of the rotor in slowing the build up of rust.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

Impossible to tell for sure without using a micrometer to check the thickness in a few spots, and compare that to the manufacturer's specs.

They don't look bad, outside of being old and very rusty. If it were my car I'd be replacing them even if they were still in spec, especially if I was already doing pads. There might be some life left, but probably not enough to last through a new set of pads, and I think the rust looks bad.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

Checking the thickness with a micrometer is a waste of time and money. If the pads are worn down to the metal backing plate, replace the pads and rotors. If the rotors have cracks in them (I can't tell if those dark lines are cracks from the pictures, but you should be able to tell by running a fingernail across them), if the brake pedal pulses when you press on the brakes, or if the vehicle pulls to one side when you brake, replace the rotors.

Unless the pads are nearly new, I recommend replacing them when replacing the rotors, since you should always replace the rotors or have them turned (machined) when you install new pads. The pads are far cheaper than the rotors, so in the long run, if the pads are worn down much at all, it will cost less to start with new pads.


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## SpentPenny (Dec 15, 2020)

Rotors are cheap and those made the last few years are so thin that many cannot be turned if they warp. Simpler to just replace them if in doubt. But honestly if you are not that familiar with brake parts it would be a good idea to have a qualified mechanic do your brake service. There is a lot depending on having it done right.


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## SoNic (Feb 14, 2021)

When the rotors look rusted like those, they are cheap enough offers around that I just replace them.
Rockauto, Amazon... just get ones with a bit of corrosion resistance, for esthetics.
PS: For Canadiens (and US) this is worth checking: Max Advanced Brakes | Your Stop For Everything Brakes (maxbrakes.com)


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

SoNic said:


> Rockauto, Amazon...
> PS: For Canadiens (and US) this is worth checking: Max Advanced Brakes | Your Stop For Everything Brakes (maxbrakes.com)


I'll add Ebay to that list. I'll check out Maxbrakes next time I'm shopping. Thanks!


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## smitty10101 (Jan 27, 2019)

newbii said:


> I'm not a mechanic.



You claim not to be a mechanic so
is your mechanic recommending that they be replaced or are you just curious? 
brakes making noise or grabbing?
stopping distances getting noticeably longer?

If it's in for a brake job it's just easier (for the mechanic) to remove & replace (R&R) the pads, rotors and associated metal parts. It avoids callbacks & customer complaints. It does add expense, but not significantly.


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## HotRodx10 (Aug 24, 2017)

smitty10101 said:


> ou claim not to be a mechanic so
> is your mechanic recommending that they be replaced or are you just curious?


I'm not a mechanic by trade either, but I do all my own brake jobs (and nearly everything else).


smitty10101 said:


> brakes making noise or grabbing?
> stopping distances getting noticeably longer?


Definitely good questions. If you answer yes to any of that, the rotors and pads should be replaced.


smitty10101 said:


> If it's in for a brake job it's just easier (for the mechanic) to remove & replace (R&R) the pads, rotors and associated metal parts. It avoids callbacks & customer complaints. It does add expense, but not significantly.


That's definitely the case if you're taking it in - labor is the expensive portion, and replacing the rotors is almost no additional labor on most vehicles, including the OP's. 

Rotors should be turned or replaced when new pads are put on, and since it's a hassle to get rotors turned, it's getting harder to find anyplace that does it, and it's usually about as expensive as buying new, I just order a pad and rotor set when I need brakes.


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