# Framing Interior Wall with Vaulted Ceiling?



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

How would you frame this interior wall?

Most of our bathroom is going to have vaulted ceilings. The wall to the left is part of my 'thorn'....it will have a normal ceiling....but the rest of the walls will go all the way up to the roof rafters.










If you can see the string to the right of the ladder...that is the corner of that wall and you can see where it intersects the rafters.

Do I frame the walls first to 8' and then build up from there to the ceiling or do I just frame all the way up?


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

All the way up.. Bottom plate. Single top plate. From the photos looks to be about a 40degree angle, cut the studs to whatever angle the roof is.


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## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

And, there is no rule that you have to frame all the way up. You can have a flat top at 8' and use the space above for decoration; lights, artificial plants, etc. It will be a dust collector, though.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Sorry, I just assumed that the architect had drawn it that way when the DIYer stated they went all the way to the ceiling. I must say, an odd design and a waste of space as well.. Good luck !


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

CopperClad said:


> Sorry, I just assumed that the architect had drawn it that way when the DIYer stated they went all the way to the ceiling. I must say, an odd design and a waste of space as well.. Good luck !


How is it a waste of space? One side of the wall will be the walk in closet.....it means I can take the shelves up a lot higher.....

Yes, it's an odd shape....much better than the symetrical square boring stuff so common now days.

If you click on the link in my signature you will see more odd shaped stuff....

JK....I will be 'sort' of doing what your saying....today I'm installing boards below the ridge beam that span between the two rafters. So, instead of the drywall going all the way to the ridge beam and the beam being exposed....I'm going to have a 'flat spot' at the top....it will give me a small troff to run power or anything else....I'll post pics later today when I have those boards up in place.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Are you putting the flat part of the ceiling where the wall intersects with the roof?


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

Hi, just as you show with your string you can use a plumb bob to find the floor and ceiling layout at the plumb and then flat block in between rafters flush with the underside with 14 1/2" 2x8's where the wall goes across. full studs are always preferable for tall walls, or two walls with full double studs on the outside corner where the wall ends.

to get your full wall top plate placement to the ceiling you can also plumb up on the wall that is built and establish that point at the ceiling and then figure out the other end of the wall. A tall straight stud with a 4' level will suffice in the place of a plumb bob. just get your wall layout figured out on the floor and plumb up from there...


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

CopperClad said:


> Are you putting the flat part of the ceiling where the wall intersects with the roof?



I was kinda wondering that too. the wall could be framed underneath of the rafter ties if the rafter ties make it that far across the ceiling.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

From your photo it looks like it would be close. I would actually lower your collar ties to actually make a smooth transition from your wall to the flat part.. You don't want sheet rock flat up the wall, then 3'' up your roof line, and then flat on the ceiling. Make it intersect, a lot cleaner looking and a lot less taping 15' in the air. good luck !


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

^ yep, let the backside (inside of closet) of the wall be where the ties come across.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

Here is another photo that 'might' help....I have the ties between rafters under the ridge beam. This will make it a whole lot easier to drywall the vaulted ceiling....










That top plate is going to be a 'lot of fun' to get right. 

I'm going to do more as less suggested....run horizontal blocking between the rafters....that will give me 'something' to nail the top plate to. It just has a lot of complicated angles.....thank God for the compound miter saw....


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

So your wall is going where that string is hanging? or where the 2x4 is sticking up past your 8' wall?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

CopperClad said:


> So your wall is going where that string is hanging? or where the 2x4 is sticking up past your 8' wall?


 
Here...this might help....this is the floor plan of the 2nd floor. Over on the left side is the walk in closet....the wall your refering to is the one that has the L shape....the above picture was taken from about where the bed would be.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

I gotcha! Looks look a cool framing job. I used to love framing stuff like that. Is someone else framing the exterior/ roof and you just building the interior non-bearing walls? Or you tackling every thing solo?


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

CopperClad said:


> I gotcha! Looks look a cool framing job. I used to love framing stuff like that. Is someone else framing the exterior/ roof and you just building the interior non-bearing walls? Or you tackling every thing solo?


I have sunk every single freaking nail myself (thank God for nailers...especially the palm nailer).

We poured concrete last July 15th....I had one guy to the digging for the foundation and help with the rebar....he is the same one that will do the stucco (have to pick and choose battles). I do get help when I have some large beams to put in place....safety is a bit more important than ego....

Other than stucco and the guy who will nail on the roof....I'm doing all of it....you can see some of the progress pics in the link in my signature...

As a side note...I built a garage a couple years ago...I figured if I couldn't do that...then the house was out of the question....

Yea, your right...that kind of framing is fun...but time consuming....I was up there at 10pm last night with the plumb bob finding points on the roof rafters where the wall will intersect....it was too windy yesterday during the day to get a good placement with the plumb bob....


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

Plumb bobs are accurate. Only with minimal wind. A lil old school if you will. Save yourself a lot of time and effort and pick up a laser level. I prefer to use PLS (pacific laser systems), don't go cheap though, get yourself one that is self leveling.


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## CopperClad (Jun 22, 2012)

http://plslaser.com/point-lasers/pls3-tool That one is perfect for what your doing. You will find other things that this tool makes much more easy to accomplish. Looking good though !


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