# How to replace one wall???



## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

You want to fit new drywall all the way and retape corners and edges. You can probably trim along the ceiling and adjoining walls with a razor knife and straight edge. Then demo the wall. Pull out all the drywall nails and screws. 

I would spray some Boron in the cavity before you insulate as long as you have it open as a cheap insect deterrent. Insulate. Hang new drywall. Mud and tape. Prime and paint.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Check your local codes, in fla if the garage is attached in most areas you need 2 layers of drywall in the garage side and the seams need to be taped and mudded.This is to protect from gases from cars, lawnmowers, ect and to extend the burn time in case of fire in the garage. And yes you can drywall just 1 wall. DO NOT just cut the drywall back all but a couple inches you are asking for a nightmare to tape and mud. And to install a vapor barrier should eliminate the condensation problem, it should have been done when built unless it's a really old house. hope this helps good luck


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

They had the double drywall in the garage, looks almost like a compressed cardboard type of material about a 1/2'' then a layer of drywall over that. I was surprised it wasn't insulated, but the house is about 50 years old.


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

I disagree with removing the drywall to the ceiling angle. being this is a diy forum. I'd recommend.
chalk a line 5 inches from the ceiling. Score that line with a razor knife, then use a rotozip type router and router(cut) that line. Remove from that point. Tearing into the ceiling line will cause more issues than it is probably worth. 3 and 1/8th's" below the ceiling is all top plate condensation at that point should be very minor. The repair will much easier.
+1 on the vapor barrier
I wouldnt worry about the wall angle...the ceiling though )-:


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Yep, especially if it is a textured ceiling of any sort. Cut it 5-6" down
Can use a rotozip or make multiple passes with a knife.


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

Seems to be two schools of thought here...are there advantages/disadvantages of the two approachs, other than one being easier?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

if your ceiling is textured you can not tape against it, cut down 5" (or 6")


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

What if the two adjoining walls are textured?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Use a drywall J on the edge of the drywall and painters caulk in the corner.








Quite of then the J is used when going up against brick or wood.


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

Did not know that existed! Thanks.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

if you use a J channel? you'll need to cut the tapered edge from drywall sheets


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

Can you explain what you mean by tapered edge?


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Most drywall has tapered edges along the long sides, it creates a recess that the mud goes into.
If you run your drywall horizontal these tapers will be in the middle and at the top and bottom of the sheet.


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

when the drywall is rolled, it puts a taper along the length of the sheet. to accept the paper tape and mud. the edges are not a full 1/2" or 5/8". the "J" bead will not fit tightly. you'll need to cut at least 3 inches off edge for best fit.


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

sorry about the grammar in my last post.
you're in Florida you probably have an orange peel type texture on the walls.
I would skip the j-channel and go for flat taping tight up against the textured walls.
"Here's to hoping you havent made a mess yet"
If you cut your angle clean and straight without ripping the sides that are staying (textured) while removing the one wall. There's still an easier way.
Do the above with the ceiling angle. 
Cut your wall angles with a razor knife straight and clean.
hang the drywall as tight as you can get it to the staying walls. if it not perfect tight, pre-fill any gaps. Let dry. 
nest step needs to e clean, you can't use painters tape to keep it clean and still get the desired finish..
So cleanly apply all purpose mud down the side of the "new" walls angle..place the tape, flat into the angle, bumpt up against the texture wall. Wipe the tape down tight and clean, looking out for spillage onto the texture wall, clean off any.when the tape drys, coat it, keep it clean watching for spillage again.
this is called flat taping.
this will crack if you dont apply a tiny bead of caulk before priming. 
after running the bead of latex caulk wipe it down with a semi soaked rag 
leaving a very very thin line of caulk that will hold the angle and look correct.
it's a technique used by finishers to finish up against block walls and fire places


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

New one to me. All the drywallers I have worked with use the J.
What is better about this way, except J not needed before the drywall?


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

I haven't demoed wall yet. If I'm understanding your instructions correctly then it seems that cutting the old wall as tight, straight, and clean as possible at the existing joints, both walls and ceiling, is vital to this all working. 

The rest seems pretty straight forward, basically like taping a seam in the middle of the wall, except at the edge, so no folding of the tape to fit the corners.

Am I on the right track?


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

yes you do not fold the tape you lay it flat up the new wall angles...bump it into the textured wall. I do this technique with new wall to wallpaper applications as well.
Using the latex caulk is critical though. you have to use it or it will crack. cleaning up with a wet rag (the caulk) makes it visually esthetic. leave that top angle alone and come down five inches


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Drywallfinisher - why is flat tape better?


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## paparocks (Jun 29, 2011)

you wont have to match up your wall texture.


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

Regarding the ceiling, I know some of you have said to cut about 6 inches down and replace wall from there. One issue is that this wall is textured. If I do that I have to re-texture the new wall, which I'd rather not do. Can I use the J channel on the ceiling joint, or should I flat tape that too? 

Is there something special I should be aware of if I remove it all the way to the ceiling. The ceiling is textured as well, so I'm thinking I would handle it the same way as the wall joints?

I appreciate everyone's input throughout this thread! Lots of help.


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## mae-ling (Dec 9, 2011)

Around here in your case they would use the J on all 3 sides.
On top sheet may need to cut off about 3" so it fits J properly.
Then do a 'belly band' a 3" band in the center. (assuming 8' ceilings and 48" drywall.
You can get 54" drywall then just cut off 6" at the top and still have a nice tapered joint to mud in the center.

Can't speak to the flat taping, method I am not familiar with.


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## drklude (Oct 15, 2012)

One last question, I'm probably going to go with the J on all 3 sides as it seems the easiest way to go. When installing the J at the wall joints, do I cut the channels to the 4' lengths of the drywall and install with each sheet? I found that the channels come in long pieces I think around 8-10 feet. Is there a way to install one long piece of J so there are no seems? Would I just install it on the bottom piece of drywall, and then slide sheet above it into the channel as I install it?


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