# Sandless floor refinishing?



## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

I wouldn't go with something like that unless your floor has already been sanded and refinished a couple times and you can't sand any further. At a few hundred dollars per room, the cost savings may not be very significant at all. My sister had a similar process done to her home and it looked ok...not good, ok...For just a few months. It certainly didn't make it look like new floors, it made it look like shiny old nasty floors.

Their process is basically a deep cleaning and then an application of what I think is a water based polyurethane. Water based floor finishes are easy to apply and dry within a few hours, but lack the durability of solvent based finishes. 

Ideally, you sand the floor, fill the gaps, stain as desired, and apply at least a couple coats of sovent based polyurethane.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

I agree with kctermite.

Mr.sandless if offering to screen the floor ( this is the typical process when all the floor needs is a new top coat "finish"...minor traffic ware and scratches in top coat) all the pictures on the site show a gloss finish...this shows better in a pic..but is prone to need re-screen more often.

I advise satin, low sheen or dull rub.. here in FL ..sand is everywhere.



Not sure what the special snake oil is they are selling...but most good floor re-finishers can do this... I would call a few old timers and get their in put as to what needs to be done to get the results you want.

The pet stain "mask" is interesting... I would need to eyeball this.. To easy to make pics look good.


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Actually, one system I know requires some polyurethane to already be there for the process to work; it is basically a refinishing job and in no way should compare to a complete sanding and finishing process. It's somewhere in-between. The sanding and finishing is for situations where there is staining right down to the wood and beyond and/or where the scratching is severe. However, in other cases, for example where the finish is only slightly scratched (say, by chair legs) and there is no staining - then the sandless process will work.

First, the existing polyurethane is chemically 'etched', then a two-part polyurethane finish is made on the spot (it's called 'catalysed polyurethane') and what you have once applied to the floor is a hard finish that bonds to the existing finish and is stronger and more resistant than the original one. 

Takes about a day to do about 3 rooms and I know guys who charge about $2/a sq ft for this... but it's obviously more involed that the simple application of another layer of clear polyurethane. Bona Kemi has a system so do others...Mr Sandless sounds like that.


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## ncarm80 (Sep 17, 2008)

I'm new to these forums.

Personally, I just refinished my floors in my first home, I ripped up the carpet and had a little jewel in the form of hardwood floors. I did about 500 square feet of flooring.

You're going to want to refinish these down to the bare wood. 

If you're looking to save money and not time, strip them, then sand, then stain (if you want to) then lay down 3 coats of satin poly (don't go with semi or gloss, they look nice, but they show the dust). I stripped mine with Citri-Strip, then sanded, this saved me a ton of money on sandpaper. Time, not so much. 

After you're done, lay down some new shoe molding, it makes them pop big time.

Do it right the first time, or you will be pissed you didn't. :thumbsup:

In the end I spent around $275, this includes the floor stripper, sand paper, floor sander rental, stain and poly and a ton of elbow grease.


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## jrutledge (Jul 20, 2010)

*sandless hardwood refinishing*

Check out SOYGEL, you apply and scrape off...expensive, never tried it, any opinions??


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## Hardwood Floors (Oct 14, 2010)

*Try these guys for your floors*

Try these guys out. They have great references and real examples on their website . With this process you really get a brand new finish look even with the most sever conditions. I couldn't believe it could be done myself. They really provide a sandless finish" that comes out excellent. I was looking for a process for my mother's friend's apartment and I used these guys because of her asthma (dustless). It came out great, and her floors were pretty beat up too.


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## msv (Dec 4, 2009)

*sandless finish...*

I did check out that site... It look pretty good, except for some things... First, I don't know where you saw those references.... second, it's just a 888 number, no city, no location on the site or in the code for the site. That leaves me to believe that you either used them and were VERY satisfied with what they did, OR.... you own the company and are posting here just for advertising.... I'm just saying.... never saw a DIY chatroom user with your nickname, unless you are a floorguy like myself, but then it seems weird you are advertising another floor company....
again, I could be wrong on this and if that's the case, ignore my post, but.... I think I'm not wrong....


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## jetcap (Jun 4, 2012)

*recomendations*



ccarlisle said:


> Takes about a day to do about 3 rooms and I know guys who charge about $2/a sq ft for this... .


I realize that this thread is 4 years old but I've weighed all options and for time frame, ease, turn-around time think somebody going into my empty aprtment would be best option.

I realize prices may have gone up but do you have any recomendations in Montreal ccarlisle for people who can do this. Internet searches have come up empty for the most part. Private msg me if you want...tks


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## ccarlisle (Jul 2, 2008)

Well, it depends really on the extent and the nature of the problem you already have; you _may be_ able to get away with a product from www.laminate-floor-cleaner.com.

It's now a DIY item.


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## hohadcr (Jul 25, 2009)

I have sanded old wooden floors and put poly on. The finished floor was scrachy, because of the sands got caught in the poly. I even have a hard time running a mop, as the fabric of the mop gets caught in the scrachy floor. 

Anyone knows how to absolutely eliminate the sand, before putting poly on?

Thanks


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## dogris (Dec 8, 2007)

hohadcr said:


> I have sanded old wooden floors and put poly on. The finished floor was scrachy, because of the sands got caught in the poly. I even have a hard time running a mop, as the fabric of the mop gets caught in the scrachy floor.
> 
> Anyone knows how to absolutely eliminate the sand, before putting poly on?
> Thanks


You my friend are a comedian and don't know it or maybe you do! :thumbup: :laughing: 
I love it! Sandless floor refinishing


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Never use a Soy Gel or in fact any chemical stripper on a hard wood floor.
The Soy strippers even say right on the can to not use it on floors.
It will effect how the stain and poly take to the floor.


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## RhodesHardwood (May 23, 2011)

This process is generally not ideal for floors that have not had any attention in the past 5 years or more. This process is not really ideal for floors with scratches, dents, or dings that are deeper than the top finish layer. Sine no actual sanding is done things like this will not come out of the floor. On the other hand if you can live with the imperfections, then it might work for you. Here is a how to that I posted on here awhile back incase you wanna try yourself. Hope this helps


http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-recoat-sandless-refinish-hardwood-floors-139824/


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## farmall (May 28, 2012)

This is what I call a recoat. In some circumstances, it is an okay option. I always give folks the option to recoat vs. sanding. i also tell them about the risks involved, peeling due to adhesion issues. We rarely know what might be on our floors that could cause adhesion issues.


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## RhodesHardwood (May 23, 2011)

farmall said:


> This is what I call a recoat. In some circumstances, it is an okay option. I always give folks the option to recoat vs. sanding. i also tell them about the risks involved, peeling due to adhesion issues. We rarely know what might be on our floors that could cause adhesion issues.


I agree, it isn't the best method for all floors. We just call it sandless refinishing because it sounds better. If you prep the floors the proper way adhesion should almost never be an issue.


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