# Drywall Layout



## nateshirk (Mar 11, 2011)

I've done one drywall project in my life so far, and if you too are new, I'd suggest the bottom, since any imperfections won't be seen so easily. If you have confidence in your finishing work, the middle will probably be the easiest, since you won't be down on your knees. And I hated doing any of the work over my head, so I wouldn't even think of puting it up there. Or you could just get 10 ft. drywall, cut it to length vertically, and not worry about it.


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## mickey cassiba (Mar 17, 2011)

Since you are putting a a black stripe around the middle, why not put the strip there. Finishing could be problematic, but paint hides a world of sins. I'm sure a pro would disagree with me, but it's my opinion, and worth everything you paid for it.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

Hopefully you're good at ripping drywall.
Drywall has a 3" bevel on each edge.

I would rip the bevel off the bottom, set into a vinyl end cap. This will finish nicely to the floor.
Now set your next course on top of that.
Finish the last course with a 9" strip to the ceiling. The taper can float his finish from the ceiling to the 9" seam.

The problem with putting the strip down low is it's a PITA to tape a joint 9" of the floor. Your finishing guy won't like it.:furious:


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## williamwiens (Nov 13, 2010)

why not ten foot sheets?


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## mickey cassiba (Mar 17, 2011)

williamwiens said:


> why not ten foot sheets?



Lotta waste I would think


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

they make 54" width for 9' wall height, this puts single joint in middle


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## williamwiens (Nov 13, 2010)

so maybe I'm missing something.
walls are 8ft 6" in height?
what is the length of the walls?

If 10ft sheets are hung vertically, there is 3ft 2" of waste for each 8ft linear.
If 8ft sheets are hung horizontally, there is 3ft 6" of waste for each 8 ft linear.

what am I missing?


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## mickey cassiba (Mar 17, 2011)

williamwiens said:


> so maybe I'm missing something.
> walls are 8ft 6" in height?
> what is the length of the walls?
> 
> ...


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## southshoreconst (Feb 13, 2011)

If stud layout is accurate you should stand boards vertically. . .

1. Call around and find 9' boards. A lot of commercial construction uses 9'ers and they could have enough leftover.

2. If you cant find ^ Start with a 16" (x48") rip, then top off. Use the board you cut the 16" rip off and put that on bottom of next section. top that off. the key here is to keep alternating your butt joint. and using up "some" of the waste. You will have waste but it is better to have waste and better finish then crappy finish and you saved $9.

3. Dark colors like black (Dk. green,navy blue)make it very hard to hide tape joints i would strongly advise against putting any joints in black section.:no:

Its also good practice to keep boards off ground by a 1/2" so they dont sit in any spillage


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## williamwiens (Nov 13, 2010)

my logic is that no matter what the waste is using 10ft lengths, you have no butt joints. the finisher may be happier with that, thus end up possibly saving money against his costs.
all in all how many dollars are you looking to save? in a 12 x 12 space (eg) savings in board cost is about $20-30.
I'd make it all factory seams only and call it a day...


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## nateshirk (Mar 11, 2011)

I've read before that pro's like to hang horizontally so they don't have wavy corners where the wall meets the ceiling.


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## tcleve4911 (Nov 6, 2010)

tpolk said:


> they make 54" width for 9' wall height, this puts single joint in middle


Tpolk got it right
I forgot about the 54" rock
54 x 2 = 108 = 9'-0"
Cut off 6" ....one seam in the middle.....done.....

Horizontal installation of rock is typical in residential.
Does any of this need to be 5/8" Firecode for a garage?


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

nateshirk said:


> I've read before that pro's like to hang horizontally so they don't have wavy corners where the wall meets the ceiling.


This is often the main reason.


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## nap (Dec 4, 2007)

I think southshore hit it on this one with the 3 piece stack. Because of the paint scheme, you really wouldn't want a joint in the stripe. When hanging, on the top piece, put the reduced edge down and on the bottom piece, put the reduced edge up. That allows for the tape in the horizontal joint and removes the problem of a tapered edge at the floor where there is no base molding. He's going to have to fill under the board with something that is waterproof though. You don't want the board setting directly on the floor but you do want to seal it. Some type of rubberized paintable caulk should do a good job.


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

If you can get the 54" tall sheets, get them and use them along with 4' sheets hung horizontally. No cutoff strips then.
Mike Hawkins


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