# Table saw comparisons



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

I think I have narrowed down my choices in table saws to:

A Porter Cable http://www.lowes.com/pd_89913-46069..._prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

or this De Walt http://www.lowes.com/pd_244910-70-D..._prd_lis_ord_nbr|0||p_product_quantity_sold|1

This is for DIY homeowner use not heavy commercial use. I definitely like the rip fence better on the De Walt. Spec wise the seem pretty comparable. Or they really apples to oranges. For 69 dollars more am I getting more saw?


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

I guess I've pretty much decided the DeWalt is a better choice. Does anybody out there own this model? Any complaints?


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Jim--I've had the DeWalt in service for 3 going on 4 years---That saw has been one of my favorites--

You will like the fence---quick,accurate and true.

The machine will stand a lot of abuse----I say,good choice for a portable saw.


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Defiantly the DeWalt, just for the fence if no other reason. 

Once you’ve played with that rack and pinion fence you’ll wonder why they aren’t all made that way.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

My tools live a hard life----That saw has been a pleasure to own. I even got a shaper head into it once when I needed to duplicate some antique trim on a job to far from my shop.

The small size and steel frame makes it handy to store in my overcrowded truck.

I do have a big saw in the shop---Bigger =safer However,That is one fine saw.---Mike---


----------



## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

I've had the Dewalt for 10 yrs or so. It's a great saw and I love the fence.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

One thought,Jim----You are new to table saws-----Make or buy some pushers--Keep your fingers safe

always keep one within reach-----Have fun with your new saw----A table saw is a the best addition to your tool collection----Mike---

Google Image Result for http://www.provenwoodworking.com/images/push-shoe.jpg 

I make my own using scrap wood and a band saw--I like the 'push shoe' type.

They not only push the wood but also hold it down---the little push stick type allow the wood to flip up and are very foolish to use.--M--


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Thanks Mike. Definately will be using a push shoe. My saw is due to arrive on Wed. from Amazon. 343+ tax opposed to Lowes 369.:thumbup:


----------



## Rob1975 (Apr 30, 2011)

My money is on the Bosch GTS1031. Much more accurate and a lot of features the DeWalt does not have. A bit more in price, but well worth the investment. I don't have enough posts for a link, but go to youtube and search Bosch GTS1031 Portable Table Saw. It is my next buy. I have it's bigger brother and love it!


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Rob,I've see pictures of that saw---looks like a fine tool----In the mean time the DeWalt still is a favorite.


----------



## Rob1975 (Apr 30, 2011)

oh'mike said:


> Rob,I've see pictures of that saw---looks like a fine tool----In the mean time the DeWalt still is a favorite.


Even though the DeWalt can't fit a dado blade on it? Is not as portable? Lower RPM? I think looking is one thing, if you tried it Bosch would be your new favorite. IMO.


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

That Bosch is at least in the ballpark pricewise, 406 on Amazon compared to the 343 I paid for my DeWalt. It arrived today but is still in the box. I like the rack and pinion fence on the DeWalt. 

A dado blade would be nice but I think I can make do with a regular blade for the limited joints I'll be cutting. It took some convincing to get my wife to go for the 343 price when she sees a Skil table saw for sale at Lowes for 139. 

In the definition of irony, I now have a coworker who is moving to Louisiana and has a Makita saw that she is selling for 150. I don't really know which model. I will look at when I go Saturday if she stil has it. If I hadn't already bought the DeWalt, I would have looked at it today. I had been looking for a quality used table saw for over a year now. But I guess a used saw is kind of a crap shoot anyway.


----------



## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

I'm shocked that you can't run a stack dado set on this saw. You can with the previous version (which is what I own). This saw is a like a drill that won't drive screws.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Hell.I got a shaper head into the DeWalt---It will take stacked dadoes I should think,

I never tried that---Worth investigating-----Mike------


----------



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I had the Makita and my nephew (who worked for me) had a Dewalt saw we used on the job. The Makita was a stronger saw but I liked the Dewalt best because of the fence. The Makita was about a $100 or so higher back then. I always hated a saw that would bog down when I was cutting heavy materials and the Makita didn't bog, well the Dewalt didn't bog easy but just wasn't as strong as the Makita. I still have my Unisaw in the shop but it was not handy when we were out on the job. 

Jim you will like either saw but IMO you will like the Dewalt best if they are still built like they were back a few years. I never did try the PC so I can't say anything about that one.


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

I got the saw out and put it together. I have used a table saw but it's been a while and they've added a lot of safety features. A couple of questions. 

How important is the riving knife? The instructions say the included riving knife matches the thickness of the included blade. So If I want to use a blade with a thicker kerf, I must buy a riving knife to match it. 

Then there is the kickback controller. Again, Important? It seems like these things can get in the way.

It came with a 24 tooth blade that looks to have anti-kickback protection built into it. Are these any good? Or do they just include a cheapo blade so they can say it is a complete kit? I bought an 80 tooth Irwin blade that is recommended for the laminate flooring I have to cut. But it has a wider kerf that the included blade so I guse I won't be using the riving knofe for that. 

I guess I will have a better idea once I actually get to use the thing. Maybe tomorrow.


----------



## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

IMHO, some of the "safety" equipment make table saws more dangerous because you have to fight them to use them.


----------



## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

I don't use any of the safety equipment that comes with table saws. Instead, I use my head and make careful, deliberate moves. I always try to work safe, but riving knifes and blade guards just block my view and I don't want to guess where the blade is located. I might be convinced to try anti-kickback wheels, but I've never tried them. When ripping sheet goods I try to stand to the left of the stock and push on an angle back towards the fence, but in front of the blade (you don't want to put pressure on the blade or the back side of the blade)....kinda like a human featherboard. This keeps the stock tight against the fence, keeps the stock from wobbling, and keeps me out of the way in case it kicks back. The biggest danger is coming in contact with the blade while it's spinning and the best was to avoid that (I find) is by making careful deliberate moves and keeping the shop clean so that you don't trip over clutter. Also, don't leave a pencil behind your ear because it can drop, hit the blade, and come back at your face in a hurry.

As far as I know, the riving knife simply keeps the stock from springing back after it passes through the saw and binding on back of the saw, so I don't think you would need to change it out for thicker kerf blades.

There are a lot of people in here who are a lot more knowledgeable than me and they may disagree with my comments, so see what the others say.


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Took a chunk of meat out of my left thumb being in a hurry with the gards off working too close to the blade and not powering down. Do the higher end table saws come with a blade brake? 

Anyway I got in and out of the ER in record time. Two nurses worked in tandem to get the thumb wrapped and get me in and out. It doesn't hurt that I work there. Didn't hit bone so that was good. got back to work on the kitchen floor later that afternoon before heading off to work.


Now I'm looking to buy a real miter guide for this thing without spending too much. There is a wide range of prices and some of them look like more than I need. Open to suggestions.


----------



## WirelessG (Mar 22, 2009)

Saw Stop has a table saw that runs a light electric current through the blade and once your fingers come in contact, the current is grounded and the saw shuts off. They are not cheap though. Other than that, I don't know of any that come with a brake (although there prolly are some).

Rockler had a decent miter gauge with positive stops at each half degree (I don't see it on line anymore). An Incra or a Kreg would be a good choice. Check Rockler and Amazon for prices and reviews. It depends on what you are wanting to cut. It seems that most people use a square sled to cross cut on a table saw and make their miter cuts on a miter saw (if the stock isn't too big).


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

GOOD GOD JIM!!!! 

Be careful----Never raise the blade more than 1/4 inch or so above the material to be cut---

Keep that left hand away from the blade--If you use it to push the material against the fence---
keep the hand in one place (where it can't hit the blade if the board vanishes)--use your fingers like a feather board,

On a small saw like that do not try to use the miter guide---use a chop saw---Just throw the miter guide in the trash.

If you must use a miter slide with a small saw make a sled--make two--one for 90* and another for 45*

I always preach that bigger is safer when it comes to table saws----The little ones have limits.

For cutting laminate flooring I always make a box guide for a Skill Saw----One slot for 90* another for 45* and an adjustable one for odd angles.

Use the table saw only for rips.(straight cuts) Laminate will dull a saw blade instantly.
Save that nice blade for good wood--use the lesser blade for the laminate.


And please slow down and THINK !!!!! 

Wireless G said it well----Slow deliberate movements. ---Your friend,Mike-----


----------



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

Jim, read Mikes post #21 over and over and over again.


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Thanks for the responses. I do have a miter saw. I guess a square sled is all I really need for cross cuts. I would rather be using my miter saw for the cross cuts but only have one laminate blade so am making both cuts on the table saw. 

After this accident I've done a lot of reflecting and went on Rockler's site and read up on saw safety. There they say to use either the miter guage or the fence for cuts but the guage I have isn't very effective so 
i'll have to look into the square sled or put the blade on the miter saw since most of my cuts are cross anyway.

The funny thing is, I work as an X-ray tech and when I went in to work that afternoon, my first patient was a guy who also cut his thumb on a table saw with a worse outcome. He did catch the bone.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Jim,I've installed a bit of laminate flooring----If the install is typical---the cuts are hidden under the base and shoe.

No fancy blade is required,that I know of. I always made a cutting box and used a skill saw.

Laminate is murder on blades---If it were me I'd get several fair quality circular saw blades for the Skill and one 10" throw away blade for the table saw.

A cutting box is made like this---You need two pieces of plywood 10 or 12 inches wide by 2 or 3 feet long-----and some 1x2 scrap. 

Glue a strip of 1x2 to one long edge of the plywood--lay a piece of you laminate onto the plywood next to the 1x2--this is just a spacer--now glue in another strip of 1x2 on the outside of the laminate--

Leave a little space 1/8"? so that the laminate will slide in without binding--

Glue on the top piece of ply---mark a 45* and 90* mark---screw o scrap of 1x2 along the line--

Set your saw depth to cut the top /sides and just touch the bottom---Done--


Jim--be careful-- I'll be starting a thread on table saw safety soon enough---You had my stomach in a knot today---There is a bit to learn and we will try to help.----Mike----


----------



## rusty baker (Feb 13, 2009)

Most of the woodworking sites have instructions to build a good, safe crosscut sled. Or get stupid like I did and spend $1000 for a tablesaw. Hasn't been used in 3 years.


----------



## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Mike, I got one of those Irwin twin pack's that lowes sells that has an 80 teeth blade. It was about middle of the road pricewise. Had I realized what you said about the cuts being hidden I would have just used my old one. It's probably too late to save the new blade I bought since I've already made quite a few cuts. The cutting box is another good idea. I'll either do that or set up my miter saw which has an old blade in it already. Then just use the table saw for ripping.

Rusty, I did find and print plans for a sled here http://lumberjocks.com/CessnaPilotBarry/blog/20388 .


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks for the response---Mike----


----------

