# What do I do with alternator pigtail wire connector ends?



## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Hello.My truck is 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6. I am ready to replace the alternator. I have everything I need in the way of parts and tools. The old multi wire connector from the old alternator is pretty beat up. So I have a new pigtail wire connector on hand also. Photo is below

The pigtail has those little silver metal barrels already crimped on the wire ends. 
What do I do with those? Are those meant for soldering? I was hoping to avoid soldering. Those silver barrels are not color coded for crimping pliers either. Do I cut off those barrels and insulation, and then work with bare wire to crimp myself?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

NOOOO fords plugs are modular, they come apart by removing the center liner/ keeper, then the wires slide out.

Caution take a picture of the assembly first for reference on how to insert the new wires correctly.

Insert the wires, slip the keeper back in, make sure that all the wires are seated correctly.

Walla you have a new pigtail that fits perfectly.



ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Center liner? Keeper? Don't know what these terms are. I'm new to this.

The opposite ends of the old pigtail wires have those same non-insulated terminals. But they are also soldered over. I would like to leave this soldered section in place and just strip the wires ahead of that. And than crimp/tape these stripped wires into the new pigtail wire terminals. Would this work without soldering?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Then you already have an " engineered" hook-up.

Go to an auto parts store and get a new coupler assembly for this and repair it properly.

Will need to remove the old soldered junk, add new wire ends, then the coupler assembly, and just plug it in.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Can you post a picture of this coupler assembly so I know what to purchase? I have no other car. So I want to avoid making numerous trips walking to the auto parts store.

If i use this coupler assembly, do I still need to solder the coupler/wire end/terminal? Is crimping still involved. Any other pictures that might help? I still don't know what you mean by keeper and center liner.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Can't find anything on line for 'coupler assembly.'


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

He's talking about just changing the plastic shell part of the plug but reusing your original wires. Modular plugs have a number of possible ways that the wires are secured into them, they sometimes have a plastic inner piece that pops out. You pop it out, which then allows you access to release the tab on the metal connector that's crimped onto each wire. This allows you to pull the wires and crimped connector out of the modular plug. This only works if your new modular plug is identical to the old and the wires and connectors are all still good. Just because the plug looks the same does not mean the connector and wire retention method will be exactly the same. 

Problem is that the modular plug often becomes damaged by melting due to heat caused by corrosion that also damages the wires and the metal connectors that clip into the modular plug. The little metal connectors are almost impossible to find and often take specialized crimp tools to install. In that case the only option is to cut the wires off and install a new connector like the one you have there. 

If I were doing it I would cut those junk butt connectors off, strip the wires, twist them together and solder the connection. Use a quality shrink tube to cover the joint. Soldering is extremely easy to do and does not take much special equipment to get it done. It creates a MUCH more reliable joint over time. 

Crimp connectors work until they don't. Heat, moisture, dirt and vibration are all enemies to a crimped connection and all four are likely conditions under your hood. 

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a1430/4213013/


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I installed the new alternator and plugged the old wire connector back into the alternator temporarily. I can still attach the new wire connector pigtail with the new alternator bolted in. Charging battery now. 

Maybe this photo will simplify things. I should have sent it before

This is the _old _wire end of the old pigtail connector still attached. It looks like the mechanic soldered over a crimped terminal. So I guess I can crimp and/or solder new pigtail to same area in photo like mechanic did? If I solder, what solder gun and supplies do you recommend? 

I don't think changing the plastic shell part of the plug is the way to go for me since I am new at this. But this all very helpful. I'm definitely leaning toward soldering.

But I sort like your idea about cutting off the 'junk butt connectors' twisting and soldering. By the way, that's solid wire not braided. Might be stiff for twisting?


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

I doubt that wire is solid, it certainly shouldn't be. Solid wire would be a poor choice of material and very uncommon to be found in automotive uses. Solid wire does not take the vibration and flexing nearly as well as stranded, your alternator plug would frequently experience both. More likely it's just a larger gauge of stranded wire that makes it seem kinda stiff. The very end with the butt connector might have been "tinned", that's where the wire strands get fused together with solder. That is sometimes done before terminals are crimped on. Once the jacket is stripped back the strands become more flexible.

You need rosin core solder, a solder iron or gun, some shrink tube and a heat gun. You might want some additional flux too, I rarely need it with rosin core solder on bright, clean wires. For larger wires you want a little more heating power. I have a very old gun similar to this one that I use for all my automotive jobs. I prefer the instant on ability of a gun. An iron can get the job done but usually being lower wattage and more of a pinpoint it takes longer to apply the necessary heat.

That's a pretty scabby looking job that was done before, even for temporary you should get some electrical tape on those connections.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Visit lmctrucks.com to find all kinds of obsolete and seldom stocked parts for nearly every truck made in the last century.

I still would use a modular plug replacement kit myself.

And if those wires touch each other while it's running, you might have wasted your new alternator.

So get them taped separately pronto.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I looked inside the old butt connectors and it looked like solid wire. But I must be mistaken. It was probably thicker stranded wire that was tinned over like you say.

Don't worry, I taped over any bare metal wire. But thanks for reminding me. I need to check it again. I drove the truck with new alternator tonight. and charging system seems to be operating perfectly. But I need to get that new wire connector attached in the next few days.

I need to get a solder iron/gun _and _a heat gun? I've been spending too much on tools lately. I need to cut back. I don't want to spend too much on soldering equipment I might not use again for a very long time. I'm thinking maybe a high watt soldering iron or micro butane torch. 

The micro butane torch interests me because I don't have to be concerned with solder residue on the tip. I'll look around at Lowes tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

No torch, too much HEAT.


ED


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Solder residue on the tip is not a problem for a job like soldering wires. Using a soldering iron on a circuit board would be a different story. I sometimes even add a little extra to the tip as it can help speed up heat transfer to the wires. If I have excessive solder a pull of the trigger and a quick shake is all it takes to clean it off. 

With great care you can solder wires with a torch but it's very easy to overheat, burn the wires and melt the insulation, you have a lot more control with a soldering gun. I do often use a propane torch to heat the shrink tube but it requires great care. I quickly flick the flame back and forth across the wire to avoid burning.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. How many watts do I need in a soldering tool for automotive applications such as this? I went to Lowes this morning to see what they have. 

A micro torch will still put out to much heat at a low setting?

I found rosin core solder that was mixed with flux. Would this be acceptable to use?

By the way, When I plug 3- wire connector into the alternator socket, does it matter which way I plug it in? Do I need to worry about wires corresponding with the correct prong in socket?


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I use the whole plug and crip and solder the connections then heat shrink then tape. It should only plug it one way, I think. If it's a soldering gun, a small one should be fine. I have a butane one. Problem with a torch is it gets to hot to quick for automotive wires so you gotta be careful. Fords were bad about that, (alternator plug problems).:vs_cool:


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I saw the butane solder tool in the store today (not torch). The solder _gun_ seems large and heavy. I found a 60 watt solder iron at a good price. Will this do the job if I give it time to heat up?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Rangerxlt said:


> I saw the butane solder tool in the store today (not torch). The solder _gun_ seems large and heavy. I found a 60 watt solder iron at a good price. Will this do the job if I give it time to heat up?


Yes all solder irons need a set amount of time to heat up to a temp that will do the job.

No matter their wattage rating.

Get yourself a foot of heat shrink , cut it to size, and use it instead of tape.

It will shrink too small if you keep the heat source (BIC) too close too long.

ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

What gauge or diameter solder should I use? I saw this really thin coiled up solder in a tube. Or should I use a larger diameter solder?


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

That small diameter will be fine, as will an iron in place of a gun. I understand not having a lot of money that you want to spend on this, but, unless you have some already, I suggest buying a small spool of wire to learn on. It's not hard though. You'll have your iron in one hand and solder in the other, so the first thing you need to do is figure how you're going to suspend and stabilize your wires while you work. Heat your iron up and "tin" it, which is simply melting some solder onto the tip, and you're ready to go. Make sure to put your shrink tube over your wire before you start, and as far back as possible so that you don't shrink it while you're soldering. Twist the wire ends together, and lay the tip on the connection. You want to heat it enough that the solder flows evenly around and into the wires, but not so hot that it melts the insulation. Don't cheat by laying the solder directly on the tip or you'll end up with a "cold joint".


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Thanks guys! Very helpful. Can I improvise some type of 'heat shield' to lay under the wiring to protect other equipment in the engine compartment......possible heavy duty Reynold's Wrap or something? I'll be working over a bolted in alternator.

I absolutely will have extra wire on hand to practice on first. I guess I'll go with the 60 watt iron unless anyone has objections.

Please allow me a few days to report this as complete. I need my single truck to run errands. I always update people who help me...............common courtesy I think.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

The aluminum foil will work. It's not really a heat shield as much as just to make sure you don't drop a blob into a place you don't want it, so more often than not it's not necessary, but a piece of cardboard, and old shop jacket, or the foil will suffice.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

A small cookie sheet from a $ store.


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

The small cookie sheet is a great idea. I was mainly concerned about heat from hair blow dryer

I bought a 180 watt soldering gun from Harbor Freight today. This is all they had and it was under $20. I am having a very hard time with this soldering thing. I was practicing on spare wire today. I was using small diameter lead free rosin core with silver. I didn't buy flux separately because I was told the rosin core already contains flux. 

The solder seems to ball up and roll of the wire. It seems to dry instantly before it can run down the wire. If I spend a lot of time on it I can eventually get the wire soldered where I can't put it apart. But it looks sloppy. And takes me too long. Don't know what I'm doing wrong.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Heat the wire, not the solder.

When the wire is hot enough the solder touched to the wire will melt and flow in and around the wires.

One other tip, do not twist the wires together tight. Loosely gives the solder a chance to flow between them better.

As with any new endeavor , practice, practice, practice makes better final results.


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## Douggerard (Jul 25, 2016)

Rangerxlt said:


> The small cookie sheet is a great idea. I was mainly concerned about heat from hair blow dryer
> 
> I bought a 180 watt soldering gun from Harbor Freight today. This is all they had and it was under $20. I am having a very hard time with this soldering thing. I was practicing on spare wire today. I was using small diameter lead free rosin core with silver. I didn't buy flux separately because I was told the rosin core already contains flux.
> 
> The solder seems to ball up and roll of the wire. It seems to dry instantly before it can run down the wire. If I spend a lot of time on it I can eventually get the wire soldered where I can't put it apart. But it looks sloppy. And takes me too long. Don't know what I'm doing wrong.




Although they say you do not need flux, I get much better results when I use it, even with rosin core.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I can see now that I really need someone experienced to show me how to do this. I don't mind investing hours to learn a car repair which I have done many times and always succeeded

But this might be the first time I abort a repair. The toxic fumes alone were annoying enough to keep me from ever going near soldering again. If a fan can completely exhaust the fumes, or if I can get an auto parts store guy to walk me through it. I might try it again.

Are these areas where I went wrong?..............didn't pre-heat wire, didn't use flux even though solder already contains it, didn't use wider diameter solder, didn't clean or sand copper wire.

My solder tip won't stay red hot anymore either. It's dark and not shiny. And I couldn't even get the solder tip to hold a bead of solder for tinning. It just burns off and vaporizes instantly.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You got to clean and tin the tip often.

A little fine sandpaper and elbow grease, and your tip will be as new, do this when cold, obviously, is the tip a screw in type, if so if it ain't tight you will have major heat loss.

Is there an experienced relative close by, or maybe a auto shop teacher willing to teach you One- on- One.


We all go through trial and error in the beginning, but with experience it gets better. So just


:biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2: and bear it.


ED


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=solder+wires+together

The solder gun doesn't get red hot, doesn't need to. As long as it gets hot enough to melt the solder it will work. Most likely the solder won't stick to the tip due to contaminants on the tip or a shortage of flux.

Some wire can be more difficult to solder. coated or plated wires are sometimes not as easy to solder as full copper. Cheap solder can also cause you problems.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

It uses two soldering tip nuts. None of my people do soldering. But I've become friendly with a few guys at the auto parts stores. I'm sure one of them would show me if they aren't busy. I don't mind practicing. It just the fumes that bother me. I used to have childhood asthma. 

I could only melt the solder when the solder, wire, and tip all came in contact with each other.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

That ball of solder that you mentioned is the cold joint I referred to earlier; the wires weren't hot enough yet. That's the reason that you want to have the wires somewhat steady, so that you can hold your iron to them until they are hot enough to accept the solder. Lay your iron on top of the wires for a bit to start heating, then move it to the bottom for a little bit, and bring your solder in from the top so that it's not contacting the solder. Once you get it you'll say "that's easy", I promise, but it will just take a little patience in the beginning. I started wiring electronics about 50 years ago so can't recall much about the learning curve, but every once in a while now will run into a hard to reach spot, tight connections, or whatever, and it's still a bit rewarding at those times to watch the solder finally slither into place like it's supposed to. As far as the fumes, they typically don't bother me, but understand they do bother others, so maybe a small 6-8" fan on low would help. So agree with all of the other suggestions, except that I don't recall ever using rosin with rosin core wire.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I tried it again late last night. Still wasn't able to do it. I can't get the tip tinned either. I fine sanded it. It just vaporizes off the tip and gets dirty. The solder flowed briefly on the wire. Then I was never able to heat the wire enough after that. 

If the soldering tip is dirty, will it not heat sufficiently?
Should I switch to a wider diameter solder?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You did say that you bought a harbor freight special solder gun.

What brand is it? It sounds like the gun is getting too hot, and "vaporizing the solder", That is not supposed to happen.

Try a good quality one sold at a real hardware store. more $ but better results.

Trying a different solder might work too, as I have never seen solder "vaporize".


ED


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I bought the 180 watt one made by Chicago Electric. I just touch the solder to the tip....little puff of smoke and solder disappears into thin air. 

I just did an experiment. I wrapped some solder around the practice wire. Then wrapped in aluminum tape (no paper backing). Applied small flame to it. The tape burns off. It cools and I have a solid spliced connection with hardened solder. It's ain't pretty but I can't pull it part. I could try this again with a lighter or the soldering gun and less solder.

What do you think?


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

I would start with some better solder. Skip the fine wire and lead free junk. Get some quality rosin core solder, 60/40 about 1/8" diameter. Look for a recognizable name brand like Oatey, Bernzomatic, FirePower or probably a few others I can't think of right now.

Apply heat to one side of the wire and hold the solder to the opposite side. Apply heat until the solder melts. Do not point a fan at your work! It will make it nearly impossible to heat the wires thoroughly enough to melt the solder. If you feel you need to use a fan blow it across your face and not across the work.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I imagine that 180 watt gun being the biggest part of your challenge, and yes, I can see it "vaporizing" your solder, particularly this being your first experience in this area. That's hot! I was thinking more in the line of a 40-100 watt iron or gun, an iron perhaps being more manageable to learn on, but either way not as hot as the gun you have. I am typically not a proponent of buying something, using and finding out that it's not what was wanted, and returning it, but, especially this being your first outing, and no one at HF to offer any viable recommendations, I suggest that you do see if you can return it. Then, if you have a local Ace Hardware, that's where I would suggest you go and get one of the right size. I understand that you're without wheels, and it's not as easy as I or anyone else here may make it sound, but those are my suggestions. As for rolling the joint in foil tape and "baking" it, well, I guess that it has merit if it works, but I still think that you'll find it easy enough to do the right way. The biggest concern I would have is where did the tape burn off to, because, even though the joint might feel strong enough when you pull on it, what kind of long-term strength do you have with foreign materials (tape) mixed in, and, just as important, what kind of conductivity do you have.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

iamrfixit said:


> Do not point a fan at your work! It will make it nearly impossible to heat the wires thoroughly enough to melt the solder. If you feel you need to use a fan blow it across your face and not across the work.


Good point, iam; I should have thought to mention that. The point of the fan was to move some of the fumes away from you, but you definitely don't want it blowing across your work.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I talked to parts store guy who says he has done plenty of automobile wire soldering. What he says is in agreement with what you guys are saying. He also said to move up to a 'leaded' 60/40 wider diameter solder.

And you're right. When I did the first experiment. The tape glue residue burned into the solder. The parts store guy said he had concerns about the glue residue affecting the conductivity.......same as you guys are saying

Yeah. I was already thinking I should have gone to Ace Hardware from the get go instead of Lowes/Home Depot.

But check this out. I did the experiment again. This time I used heavy duty Reynolds Wrap foil, (no residue). I turned down torch as low as possible. This time the solder coated and seeped into the twisted threads with no residue burned in. Of course, a little wire insulation was burned on either end.

I already returned a Home Depot soldering iron. I'm sure Harbor Freight would refund this one. The soldering tips were crooked straight out of the box anyway.

I'll pick up a small fan. I already have larger leaded rosin solder (with flux in the solder)still in package. Does Bernzomatic leaded 60/40 rosin solder have flux blended in?


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Should, but just look at the end of the spool; will say "rosin core".


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Ok. I'll go back to the store tomorrow to exchange a couple items. and I'll try the thicker rosin core leaded solder on some more practice wire and see how that goes.


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## 1995droptopz (Sep 14, 2010)

This is the solder you need to get: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-0-5-oz-Rosin-Core-Solder-327788/100494065 

One of these irons would be perfect for a small job like you are doing: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100494065-_-204195330-_-N

Plug in the soldering iron and let it get warm. Get a small sponge or folded paper towel wet and set it near your workstation. Once the solder melts on the tip, give it a little wipe on the sponge to lightly coat the tip with solder. This will help with the tinning process.

For soldering the wire, you can use the butt splices or you can splice manually. What I do when i splice wires:

First cut a piece of heat shrink cut about 1.5 inches. Slide on one of the wires. Strip about 1/2 inch off of each of the wires to be joined. Push the wire strands into each other. Now I grab a scrap of wire about 3" long and strip all of the insulation off of it. I take an individual strand of the wire and wrap the splice. 

Now touch the solder to the torch until you have some solder sitting on it. Touch it to the splice and place the solder on the wire, ideally touching the solder puddle from the iron tip. This should cause it to flow into the joint immediately.

Once it cools, use a set of flush cutting side cutters to cut any sharp points off of the joint, slide the heat shrink over the joint and use a lighter or heat gun to shrink it. 

No need for heat shields, there is not enough radiated heat. If you are having a hard time with keeping the wires seperated enough, get one of these, or improvise with a small set of vice grips: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stalwar...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLiDt6qeltgCFYccPwodu-sG0A

Finally, I like to stagger my solder joints so when I bundle the wire, I do not have three solder joints all bunched up at the same point, because if there is a sharp edge it is more likely for a short, plus the bundle looks better.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

I have not forgotten to update you guys. Getting better with the soldering practice.

I looked more closely at the old wiring. There might not be enough wire left to solder the new pigtail to. So I might have to leave the old splice/soldered portions in and add another splice/solder connection for the new pigtail wires.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Happy Holidays,

I was unable to twist one of the stranded wires coming out of the engine compartment. A few strands broke off when I tried to twist. So I stopped immediately. Maybe the wire is just hardened from being 25 years old. Anyway, I just twisted the new pigtail wire to the untwisted stranded wire and added a little extra solder. I never did find any compatible non-insulated crimp terminals to use as a backup. 

The repair is done. Charging system shows normal indication on voltmeter. Thanks again for all your help


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Good job! And yes, 25 year old wire is typically going to be showing its' age, and typically more difficult to solder than new wire. I had a whole roll of trailer cable in the shop, Packard, which was a pretty decent brand in its' day, cut off a piece a couple years ago to repair a buddy's trailer, and it was so black and brittle that I scrapped the entire roll and picked up some new for that project. So throw in being stuck under the hood of a vehicle for 25 years like yours was and it is not particularly easy to work with, so "double good job"!.


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## Rangerxlt (Nov 2, 2017)

Thanks Dex


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