# Insulation for Childs Room



## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

i just used regular R-13 Kraft-faced fiberglass roll insulation. My floors arent even insulated yet, but you can definitely tell the difference in rooms that have the new stuff, and the rooms that dont. For example, the master bedroom is completely insulated and drywalled now, the bathroom is not. In the bedroom, you're sweating even in 30 degree weather outside. The windows arent anything special, either. In the bathroom, you're freezing. So just normal R-13 will make a huge difference. That denim stuff is supposed to be really great but its also really expensive, and so is foam. Just a heads up.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1 you need to go back and add your location to your profile for this type question.
Just go to quick links to edit.
Got some pictures, drawings.
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=home_sealing.hm_improvement_insulation_table


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## asinsulation (Apr 11, 2011)

depends ENTIRELY on your location what the best solution would be, but remember, there is more then one solution. There is no such thing as bad insulation, just bad installation. I can recommend a little more with your region though.


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## redman88 (Oct 5, 2012)

everything i have read about insulation its all about where you are, because you might have to install a vapor barer. and don't forget the second you open up the walls, to do more the minor drywall patch work, you have to bring electrical up to code, and other items in the wall.


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## RTC_wa (Mar 12, 2013)

Mantaray14 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I am going to start a project soon. My son's room has alway's been the coldest room in the house. Not only is there no insulation (none of the original rooms have it), but his room takes a direct hit from the wind, creating a strong draft there. To make matters worse, the original owner tried to tack up some kind of "stick-on" wall board in an attempt to make he walls thicker and now the walls are in terrible shape.
> 
> ...


Well first of all were are you located at would help. I know using old jeans is not the best. why? because that material can be reused in to making new cotton clothing and farming cotton is the hardest crop on the soil it depleats the nutrients of the soil faster then any crop out there so the more we can really recycle the better plus if you live in a humid climate it draws in moisture. I would just stick with Batts of Fiber glass. After having two contractors come out to add insulation to my attic one that used paper mulch and one that used Fiber glass I have to say I am using the Fiberglass guys even the paper mulch man said it is bad to use in the damp northwest out in the cost were I live. So I think it depends on were you live and stuff For me I would just use the pink stuff.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

+1

Pictures, location of the home, and budget will help get you the most comprehensive answers.

Denim is not the best solution by any stretch and there are a myriad of products that will do the same thing with minimal environmental impact.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

Be sure that the insulation batts are fluffed properly to cut down on air moving about in the stud cavities which increases heat loss.

Caulk the window frames as needed. Old style windows with sash weights have additional heat loss and possible additional drafts through the spaces where the weights hang.


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## TrailerParadise (Jan 3, 2013)

RTC and Windows: There is actually a type of insulation that is made from recycled denim, and i think that is what OP is talking about. Its supposed to work great but its like $5 per square foot. Ive never seen it in person, but it was a choice offered on Run my Renovation once.


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## RTC_wa (Mar 12, 2013)

TrailerParadise said:


> RTC and Windows: There is actually a type of insulation that is made from recycled denim, and i think that is what OP is talking about. Its supposed to work great but its like $5 per square foot. Ive never seen it in person, but it was a choice offered on Run my Renovation once.


It is 100% ungreen that denim could have been reused to make new Blue jeans etc. so to not have to farm cotton as much. Got to look at the real big picture here. Plus it absorbs moisture like a spounge it wicks it up! soaks it up. and that can cause other problems I am sure of. oh and when I insulated my walls for my living room I caulked the bottom plate and the joint between the two top plates and ran a bead of good stuff foam low expansion foam on all the inside corners of the studs. then I put in new R21 high density batts I paid .52 cents per square foot for. I also put these on my outlet boxes too http://www.energyblock.com/install.php those will really stop air flow from the outlet boxs.


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## rckkrgrd (Mar 16, 2013)

As others have said, location is important
I have a blog post on this subject That you might find useful


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## JPL (Dec 12, 2010)

Closed cell spray foam. R7 per inch, no air infiltration. Google it- it's a DYI product. Not cheap, but totally worth it.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

JPL said:


> Closed cell spray foam. R7 per inch, no air infiltration. Google it- it's a DYI product. Not cheap, but totally worth it.


It will be mucho expensive via the froth packs and twin tank kits and the yield is terrible.

The original poster can do a whole lot with proper air sealing, rigid foam, and high density batts.


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## asinsulation (Apr 11, 2011)

Spray foam is one product that should NOT be done DIY...lol


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## JPL (Dec 12, 2010)

www.sprayfoamdirect.com. I say the same thing about A/V and automation systems. Yet every Tom, Dick and Harry thinks they know it all and can install those things PROPERLY. If you take the time and research what you're doing, DYI is possible with nearly everything.


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## RTC_wa (Mar 12, 2013)

Windows on Wash said:


> It will be mucho expensive via the froth packs and twin tank kits and the yield is terrible.
> 
> The original poster can do a whole lot with proper air sealing, rigid foam, and high density batts.


Amen to that!


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## RTC_wa (Mar 12, 2013)

JPL said:


> www.sprayfoamdirect.com. I say the same thing about A/V and automation systems. Yet every Tom, Dick and Harry thinks they know it all and can install those things PROPERLY. If you take the time and research what you're doing, DYI is possible with nearly everything.


to do it right, if you take the square footage of a new construction home say 3,000 sqf you need to multiply that by 3 to get the total amount needed. that is 9,000 square feet R-21 in walls and R-48 in attic is over 64,000 dollars. how many years will it take in energy savings to pay it off? to answer that it will take 129.8 years to break even. now if you add just 1 inch of that garbage and then add batts to it it will take 30 years to pay for itself yeah! were as fiberglass batts at .52 cents per square foot will take right around ten years to pay for itself and if you went with cellulose be about the same number of years. So dump the foam.


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## Mantaray14 (Nov 20, 2009)

Wow, Lots of answers here! I'm sorry I didn't check earlier. I'm in New York, on Long Island, prob 5 miles or so from the Ocean (one town over from Long Beach, NY). This is not a huge room so cost is a factor but not a big one. I don't want to overthink it as the pink stuff would probably do the job, but yes that room is on the shady side of the house and takes a direct hit from the wind. It's always noticably cold in there, but as of now there is zero insullation. 

One of buds just rebuilt part of his house after Sandy. He said he used the hard foam stuff and it wasn't too difficult to install. I might go that route and look into proper air sealing etc as suggested.

Thanks again,

Rick


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