# overlapping standing seam tin



## woodboy (Feb 23, 2009)

I purchased many pieces of standing seam, double bent tin to replace the damaged ones that were pulled up by the April 28th, 2008 tornado in Driver, VA.

I have purchased drip edge for it and prepared adequately for the two pitches that meet. However non of the pieces are long enough to cover the top section of my roof. This means overlapping and staggering the overlapped sections.

Is there a certain way to cut the pieces that overlap, before I lock them in place with the clips and bend them, or do I just overlap them 6 inches and apply a couple of screws with neoprene washes and a bead of rubber on each side of the screw? A roofer by profession has told me to over lap the two pieces and place rubber above and below the screws, the double bend the tin. I am no stranger to roofing as I have done 8 houses by myself with 3 tab or architect shingles. I am placing the drip edge on the lower secion tomorrow and will start putting down the bottom panels of tin. The are long enough.

*What is the appropriate way to stagger the sections that will be joined?
* 


I am not going to overlap the tin where the two pitches meet. 

I have devised a way of sliding the lower tin under the upper section of roof approximately 6 inches, and have z bar to lock the upper and lower sections together. I also have flashing already installed that was specially made to overlap the bottom panels of the roof meeting the upper. Total overlap will be about 8 inches and the top section will lock to the lower section via Z bar, behind the z bar will be foam for sheet meta. The z bar will be sealed prior to locking down the top panels. The locking will be similar to the eave and gable drip edge lock. 

This building is a 150 years old ACL RR station. The rotten 1 X where replaced with 5/4 decking board and 3 inch screws. That was after I ran out of 2x8s which where all notched especial down the center of the entire 48 feet so that the top band would fit in the channel made in the 2x8s. Both overhangs have been entirely replaced as well. My back deck went to the front roof. The over hangs alone are about 140 square feet of decking board. The entire lower 48 foot x 10 roof has been replaced as well. The entire front wall 50 feet long and the right front corner was replaced last week. The entire front addition has been replaced inside, ceiling, walls and insulation. When you do things alone you do them when the weather permits. the entire back wall including three of the four bay windows has been recreated. Inside outside job here in addition to running a business full time. Expensive too.

*simple question how do I overlap two pieces to make one?* I don't like putting together two smaller pieces to make one big enough, but I have too here. I have enough material to do the entire side. On the sadder note notice what the tornado did to my flag pole.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

Wow. Is that felt under tin???:no:

Here are some links that may help. Lapping tin panels is a bigger no-no. The roof would need replacement in 16 months.

http://www.albertsroofing.com/Tin Roofing photo_gallery.htm

[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=92&file=593&s=0[/url]

[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=598&file=4434&s=0[/url]

[url]http://rcs.si-sv2628.com/show_album_photo.asp?userid=30&AlbumID=94&file=636&s=0[/url]

Wayyyy to many things to explain, so I hope the pics will tell you enough.


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## woodboy (Feb 23, 2009)

Tar paper is down already. Because of the length of time to repair the roof by myself, some sections are doubled. The roof does not leak.


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## woodboy (Feb 23, 2009)

There is nothing permanent about what you see. The tin is not permanently fastened and the tar paper will be removed as each panel is put in place. I understand that the tar paper and tar are not supposed to be used on tin as it corrodes the tin and weakens it. I have approximately 1700 feet of tin to install. One person has to improvise to take the place of having help.

Originally I had purchased 1300 sq feet of a different type of metal until the tornado came along.


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## tinner666 (Mar 14, 2005)

You're good to go then. I know htere are examples of proper flat-locks in those pictures. On pitches, I just cut in 1" on both sections, and fill with Permanant Gutter sealer instead of soldering.


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