# Metal Door Sticking



## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I have a metal door in the back of the house. It was sticking in the summer, and now sticks more in the winter. The left side of the door (with the hinge) has a gap at the top hinge. On the opposite side, the door rubs against the casing. 

When I close the door, there is still a gap at the hinge side.

Should I move the bottom hinge to the top hinge and see if that fixes the problem? Or do I have to wait until summer, and shave off some wood from the casing on the hinge side.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

this may work. the top hinge, take out a screw from the jam side. put in a long screw and carefully tighten it down. then snug the others.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

By long screw, he means a 3" construction grade screw.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I tightened all the screws on the hinges but that didn't do anything. What will a longer screw do? It looks like the hinge might be the problem since there is a gap on that side. What is strange is the screen door also has the same problem, as you can see in the photo. So maybe the door frame moved and pushed the door down and stretched the hinge. Not sure, but seems strange that both the door and the screen door is having the same problem. The screen door is actually worse.


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## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

The 3 inch screw will grab into the framing behind the hinge and jamb which will pull the jamb into a more plumb position. It will also make the door mounting more secure.
Tighten the new screw slowly until the jamb is plumb and the gap spacing is improved.


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

I found this diagram to help me understand the doorway design. It looks like the hinge is connected to the jamb. The jamb is connected to the jack stud, which is probably a 2x4. If I use a 3 inch screw, will it go through the jamb and jack stud, and hit the king stud?

I still don't know why my hinge has a gap compared to the bottom hinge. Or maybe the hinge was like that from the beginning.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

You have surmised the theory behind using a 3 inch screw in at least one top hinge screw hole.

The weight of the door, plus any other weight, ( a kid swinging on the door, it being swung open too rapidly, or any other excess force) often causes the door to sag a bit here, and pull the jack and jamb away from the king.

And a long screw will pull it all back up and plumb.


ED


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Refer to step 5 on this page: http://www.masonite.com/pdf/installation/Entry_Door_Install.pdf . The longer screws are now supplied with most new entry door units.

Modern jambs are not strong enough to handle the weight.


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## KPDMinc (Nov 7, 2016)

by the looks of the trim work on the right side of the door, theres your problem. The inner jam is uneven or something. I would start there.

or also, you could use a 2x4 sticking at the top of the door between the door and fram, close the door on i using it as a lever, and pry it owards the door until you get the clearance you want before driving that 3" screw into the hinge


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## greentrees (Apr 28, 2012)

jlhaslip said:


> The 3 inch screw will grab into the framing behind the hinge and jamb which will pull the jamb into a more plumb position. It will also make the door mounting more secure.
> Tighten the new screw slowly until the jamb is plumb and the gap spacing is improved.





Colbyt said:


> By long screw, he means a 3" construction grade screw.


I finally got around to try out the long screw. I went to the big box store and pick up the screws in the photos. I made sure they were construction grade, since other grades might break as I tighten the screw down. I used my drill along with the bit provided with the screws. I made sure and slow down when the screw was close to tightening. The torque from the drill was more then enough. I could see the whole jamb move like it was being pulled toward the king stud. 

Since it is summer, the door didn't have any sticking issue, just during winter. I guess the extra moisture expands the wood. I'll see if there is a sticking issue this winter. I did the side door on my garage which also had a sticking problem. 

Hope this solves the problem, as I was starting to have to really pull the door, and I thought it might get stuck closed at some point. Now they open pretty easy.


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## ktmrider (Apr 3, 2017)

just shim the hinge,or bend the hinge, take the PIN out then use channel locks to bend the hinge then put the pin back in and it will suck the door towards the jamb


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