# Sherwin-Williams Duration...



## Walt's Buddy (Sep 29, 2010)

I just took advantage of SW's weekend 40% off sale. We are going to be painting the exterior of our home, garage and barn in the next few weeks.

The siding is mostly T1-11 with wood eaves and cinder block foundation. The home was built in 1980 and we have lived in this home for 10 years. I don't know what type of paint was used originally or when the home was last painted.

The current paint has faded to the point where we know it is time for new paint

I would love to have some advice on your experience with Duration and what you would recommend for prepping the buildings. 

We are going to be using an airless sprayer that we picked up at Costco and would appreciated any thoughts on the use of this type of sprayer.

Thanks in advance for any and all information that you could provide!


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

*Paging Dr. ChrisN, Dr. ChrisN, line one please*

DM


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I think it is the second best paint on the market but it is overpriced in my opinion. On the other hand T1-11 takes paint well and rarely peels. You say your exisisting paint is faded so also check for it being chaulky, rub you finger on it.


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## Walt's Buddy (Sep 29, 2010)

It is chaulky...would this be taken care of with a good power-washing?


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

You have oil base paint on your exterior home if it is chalky. There are two methods to treat a chalky surface: 1) Remove the chalk or 2) Bind the chalk.

1) Remove the chalk with a pressure washer on high with just water alone will remove it without the need for any detergent at all. 

2) Binding the chalk is used if your paint is old or if the age is unknown rather than just washing it off. Paint applied prior to 1978 could contain lead, and should not be washed down into the soil. As you mentioned your home was built in 1980 so you should be fine.


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## hennyh (Nov 14, 2006)

Walt's Buddy said:


> We are going to be using an airless sprayer that we picked up at Costco and would appreciated any thoughts on the use of this type of sprayer.


Are you experienced with spraying? If not then it's very important that you backbrush or backroll to get a consistent film thickness at the thickness spec'd by the maunufacturer of the paint. (IMHO backrolling/backbrushing is the single best technique for an inexperienced sprayer and it really doesn't add much time to the job)

Newbies to spraying often produce an acceptable looking paint job but after a year or two it looks terrible because the inconsistent film thickness really starts to show. 

What sprayer did you get? (Wagner???) Duration is a very heavy bodied paint and I have my doubts that a Costco sprayer would atomize it properly. These homecenter sprayers don't perform too well with heavy bodied acrylic paints.

I'd consider returning the sprayer and renting a professional unit from the same store you bought the paint. They can also set you up with the right tip for the paint, job and sprayer. I bet you need about a 515 or 517 for Duration and it takes a pretty high end sprayer to feed that large a tip.

Duration is good paint but I'd plan on two coats regardless of what the label says. You'd probably be better off using 2 coats of Superpaint then one coat of Duration. I would not rate Duration as an easy to use paint!!


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

Epson, latex paint will chaulk. Yes, you should power wash it and even use a scrub brush if you can. Now you need to use emulsbond in your first coat of paint.


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## epson (Jul 28, 2010)

Matthewt1970 said:


> Epson, latex paint will chaulk. Yes, you should power wash it and even use a scrub brush if you can. Now you need to use emulsbond in your first coat of paint.


yes it will but not as much as oil...


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## hammerheart14 (Sep 2, 2010)

Duration is too thick for a cheap sprayer to spray. i would go with their second best paint, SUPERPAINT. One coat primer if needed, and two coats finish.


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## Jeanni (Apr 24, 2010)

I would also like to offer a word of caution, if you are not familiar with the sprayer, be aware the over spray can be carried a long way covering your personal property with the paint and if there are neighbors houses nearby or their cars!!! Make sure you have adequate insurance! 
Good luck with your painting..


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

Walt's Buddy said:


> I just took advantage of SW's weekend 40% off sale. We are going to be painting the exterior of our home, garage and barn in the next few weeks.
> 
> The siding is mostly T1-11 with wood eaves and cinder block foundation. The home was built in 1980 and we have lived in this home for 10 years. I don't know what type of paint was used originally or when the home was last painted.
> 
> ...


 
Hi - Sounds like quite a project your about to undertake. 
Just would like to make a couple of points.
The paint sprayer. I suspect the one you picked up at CostCo is one of the little ones with the motor and pump sitting on top of a paint cup, maybe an optional pickup hose that trails off into a paint bucket. I would suggest you store that in the garage for painting lawn furniture and storage sheds and other small projects. I've had eight of them over the last 30 years and they just don't have the capacity to do large projects comfortably. Speaking of comfort, they are downright painful to operate for the period of time required to paint a house. You need to hold the weight of the motor, pump and cup or hose at nearly arms length while being subjected to the vibration. Someone has suggested buying or renting a contractor type sprayer where the motor and pump sit on the ground while the operator just has to contend with the spray gun and hose. Those will be equipped with a .015 or larger tip which will handle your paint just fine. The thing here is that they handle a LOT of paint. Where the small ones will pump about 6-7 gallons an HOUR, those pump 1/4 to 1/3 gallon per MINUTE. Big difference.
As far as prep goes, I would definitely power wash, but not to aggressively. I have a small plastic shop broom I useto help loosen the dirt, etc, use a .020 tip, 2500 psi and stay 2-3 feet from the surface. Get to close and it will tend to tear up the wood. If it's chalky, consider treating the first coat of paint with Emulsabond. Do not use Emulsabond treated paint on subsequent coats. Also consider using Floetrol for spraying the topcoat although both can be used at the same time if you are careful not to exceed maximum concentration for either. (Hope that didn't confuse anyone). In other words, If one product says no more than 16 oz/gal. Do not exceed that amount with the combined products (dunno if that was much better)
This post is much to long already... Come on back for any more questions:yes:


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