# Faucet Leak below kitchen sink and from the Delta faucet: Replace or Repair?



## spyboy (Mar 14, 2011)

I saw a video where the guy said to stop a leak under the sink, tighten the compression fitting where the water lines meet the faucet. 

There are two long bolts and nuts. One is pretty clean, just looks a tiny bit rusty. The other has what I think is oxidized copper goo on the nut and bolt. That is where water is dripping under the sink. 

The Delta faucet also leaks from around the base of the faucet when the water is turned on. 

I am a real newbie when it comes to plumbing. Changing a flapper is about as much as I want to take on in this 60 year old house.

A new faucet is about $75-$80 plus the cost of the plumber. 

I expect most plumbers will want to replace the Delta (I would get the same type), rather than try to repair it. 

Can anyone suggest what a fair price is to replace the faucet, and should I even mention the repair kit. 

Also, are the nuts and bolts I can see the compression fittings, or are they hidden by the small hole in the counter top? 

I appreciate any comments, questions, suggestions.


----------



## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

Hi and Welcome spyboy, to the best dary DIY'r site on the web.

If you post a picture, we may be able to help you resolve your leak, and or replace you faucet yourself.

Mark


----------



## spyboy (Mar 14, 2011)

Thanks Jack. Trying to post pictures on Forums usually is beyond my ability to post. 

Perhaps you have an idea of what a plumber would charge to install a new $80 Delta faucet. Also, is it bad practice to buy the new faucet myself rather than have the plumber supply it?

Thanks in Advance


----------



## Jackofall1 (Dec 5, 2010)

No and if you go to the apron store (Home Depot) they will tell you how much to install, myself I am not sure of what the charge would be.

Mark


----------



## bartnc37 (May 11, 2010)

If the faucet still looks ok you just need a delta rebuild it. The O rings on the spout assembly are probably worn out and whoever installed it the first time didn't putty the base of the faucet. Put the new cups and springs in while you have it apart and grease the threads on the bonnet nut so it comes apart next time. Otherwise to change it if you have a 5/8 wrench and a 3/8 nut driver/socket you can change it yourself in about 20 minutes.


----------



## Johnboy555 (Dec 30, 2007)

As was said... whoever installed it didn't put enough or any plumbers putty under the faucet when installed, or it has totally broken down. That is what is causing the leak under the sink. The "green" you see is soap reacting with the brass bolts. To repair that you would have to remove the faucet, clean under it and putty and reinstall it. It sounds like you aren't in the mindset to do it yourself so you could call a plumber, or decent handyman to do it for you. ( You would need a "basin wrench", long extension w/7/16" socket, and plumbers putty). I am a pro handyman (35 years) and I would charge $75 service call. Would take less than an hour.

The leaking spout you should be able to handle if you wished, but could be fixed when the repairman is there. Just get a rebuild kit or tell him that you need one.

I'm not a big fan of Delta, I've always been a Moen guy. Easy to get parts, and good warranty. 

House Doc


----------



## spyboy (Mar 14, 2011)

Johnboy555 said:


> As was said... whoever installed it didn't put enough or any plumbers putty under the faucet when installed, or it has totally broken down. That is what is causing the leak under the sink. The "green" you see is soap reacting with the brass bolts. To repair that you would have to remove the faucet, clean under it and putty and reinstall it. It sounds like you aren't in the mindset to do it yourself so you could call a plumber, or decent handyman to do it for you. ( You would need a "basin wrench", long extension w/7/16" socket, and plumbers putty). I am a pro handyman (35 years) and I would charge $75 service call. Would take less than an hour.
> 
> The leaking spout you should be able to handle if you wished, but could be fixed when the repairman is there. Just get a rebuild kit or tell him that you need one.
> 
> ...


Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. I had a feeling that just the repair kit wouldn't address all of the issues. The plumber I used twice, has to drive a little to get here, but that still doesn't justify him charging $150 (each), for 2 different jobs, each of which took him about 15 minutes each. 

I haven't found a handyman who I can trust to do a thorough job and not waste my time talking about himself. 

I have to see if I can get someone who won't charge us an arm and a leg. My wife likes to use professionals, so now I have see about getting some estimates. 

Thanks again.


----------



## Johnboy555 (Dec 30, 2007)

I've found that the best way to find a trusted Pro (plumber, carpenter, electrician, or handyman) is to ask a trusted neighbor or friend. Second best is to ask your Realtor. They usually have a list of ppl that they recommend. I know I'm on quite a few of their lists, and when I need a specialist ("What I do, I do well...What i don't do well, I don't do!") that is who I call.


----------



## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

$150 for a plumber to do ANYTHING, especially if they have to drive a length, is pretty normal I'd say.

That being said, this is surely something you can handle. What are your countertops made of? You don't want to use putty on natural stone (granite) because it can stain. Caulking would be better in that case.


----------



## spyboy (Mar 14, 2011)

secutanudu said:


> $150 for a plumber to do ANYTHING, especially if they have to drive a length, is pretty normal I'd say.
> 
> That being said, this is surely something you can handle. What are your countertops made of? You don't want to use putty on natural stone (granite) because it can stain. Caulking would be better in that case.


Thanks for your insights, both as to the $150 charge to do 10-15 minutes work, and your confidence that I can do this faucet repair. 

There is an old story about a guy who tries to do a repair himself rather than hire a professional, and ends up making things worse. For various reasons I can't go into, that would be me. 

In answer to your question, the countertop is MDF, (or the like), with a thin vinyl overlay. The previous owner went with very inexpensive stuff like the countertops, just getting the kitchen cabinets refaced, no shut off valves in one bathroom, and no shut off valves under the kitchen sink. He lived here for about 45 years.

He did some electrical work so we can't use the microwave and a wall air conditioner at the same time. Can't use a space heater on another outlet in the room with the air conditioner. There are way too many things on the same breaker as the microwave oven. 

Thanks again for taking the time to offer your help, I appreciate it.


----------



## Hawke (Mar 9, 2012)

*Moen?*



Johnboy555 said:


> As was said... whoever installed it didn't put enough or any plumbers putty under the faucet when installed, or it has totally broken down. That is what is causing the leak under the sink. The "green" you see is soap reacting with the brass bolts. To repair that you would have to remove the faucet, clean under it and putty and reinstall it. It sounds like you aren't in the mindset to do it yourself so you could call a plumber, or decent handyman to do it for you. ( You would need a "basin wrench", long extension w/7/16" socket, and plumbers putty). I am a pro handyman (35 years) and I would charge $75 service call. Would take less than an hour.
> 
> The leaking spout you should be able to handle if you wished, but could be fixed when the repairman is there. Just get a rebuild kit or tell him that you need one.
> 
> ...


I would not give you two cents for Moen, gave them a second chance on a kitchen faucet and nothing but problems like the first one.


----------



## Ttd0715 (Nov 27, 2011)

Same problem I'm having with a Symmons faucet. 

Hey guys...
I'm having the same problem, and would really like to keep this faucet, because I have never had to replace a washer in it so far. 

Here's what I tried:
1) I put plumbers putty around the whole outside of the faucet before removing it, and tried turning onthe water. It still leaked onthe hot water side. It's a 4" single lever faucet with the same nuts and bolts as described by "spyboy", they are of course all rusted out. 

My question is, now that I've removed the faucet, can I put the putty aournd the holes that the bolts go into and re-try installing the same faucet? Do you think this is going to take care of the issue? It's only leaking on the hot side, on the part where the nut and bolt is attached.


----------



## Johnboy555 (Dec 30, 2007)

Hmmm... This is an old thread. 

First, a picture is truly worth at least a couple hundred words. Especially here.

I'm not familiar with Symmons faucets so I'm at a disadvantage to begin with. 
Sometimes an old faucet will develop an "internal" leak. Meaning that someplace on the faucet itself is leaking, usually where the copper tubes attach to the valve body inside the faucet housing. If there are 2 copper lines (3/8") going up the center hole, that could be the problem. If that's the problem there's usually nothing you can do but replace the faucet. 

The reason for plumber's putty is to keep water from on top of the counter from getting under the faucet body, not for keeping a leaking faucet from leaking out from underneath.

A picture from under the sink would help narrow down the problem.

Let us know.


----------



## Ttd0715 (Nov 27, 2011)

*Symmons Faucet, 1990's model*

Hi JohnBoy555, 

Thanks for responding to my request so soon. I have downloaded a couple of pictures here for you to get a better idea of how this is built? From what you are telling me, if the copper pipes have a leak or the part where the copper pipes go into, is leaking then I might as well throw it out? So. I guess that answers my questions then. 

p.s. If there is any other suggestions you might have as a last ditch effort for me to try to stop the leak, let me know. 

Thank-you


----------



## leslhoyt (May 13, 2014)

*Delta Signature Pull-out Kitchen Faucet leaking*

Hello all,

I recently have been dealing with a leak under my kitchen sink. I took a look and it looks to be coming from the quick connect for the water line. The plastic quick connect looks to have too much give and is no longer strong enough to keep the water line connected. Do I need to replace this part to repair the leak. I am attaching a photo of what the faucet, line and quick connect look like. I tried to reattach it but it won't stay connected, hence the leak. Please help


----------

