# Exposed Aggregate Driveway - Worn Badly



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would think just a squeegee finish would do what you want,


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

That's sort of what I was thinking, but I also would like to the aggregate to still "peak through" and be visible when the job is finished, and not be completely covered with cement. In other words, I want to maintain the exposed aggregate appearance.

Does that make sense?


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

No additional insights or suggestions or words of wisdom from anyone else?


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Mill the surface flat?


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

huesmann said:


> Mill the surface flat?


I've thought about that as well, and am not opposed to the concept, but I'm really not sure it could be done well because our driveway is not flat -- it has a rounded convex hump coming in from the street which transitions into a concave curved surface sloping downward to the outside of the garage doors. I might just get a contractor to verify that, though, because it is one potential solution. 

Thinking through it a little more... my other potential concern is the question of just how much of the aggregate would be left intact once the surface grinding was completed.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

F250 said:


> That's sort of what I was thinking, but I also would like to the aggregate to still "peak through" and be visible when the job is finished, and not be completely covered with cement. In other words, I want to maintain the exposed aggregate appearance.
> 
> Does that make sense?


 Toward the end of this he is talking about the retarder used to get the sand or exposed finish. After you know more about the procedure you might talk to the product producers to see if they have suggestions.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*apply polymer-modified cementitious overlay mtl w/broom - may require 2 layers till you get your desired look,,, we color the o'lay as most mtls are white,,, you can get pigment from any sher-wms store (latex)*


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

stadry said:


> *apply polymer-modified cementitious overlay mtl w/broom - may require 2 layers till you get your desired look,,, we color the o'lay as most mtls are white,,, you can get pigment from any sher-wms store (latex)*


I do not want the existing aggregate covered over with any colored topping.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*please reread as i only post'd material - how you apply it is up to you,,, EVERYTHING has color - even YOUR existing driveway AND aggregate whether you agree or not,,, more'n likely your d/w conc mix design includ'd GRAY portland cement,,, you can find just-add-wtr polymer-mod'd o'lay mtl at apron/vest stores but it TOO is gray*


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

stadry said:


> *please reread as i only post'd material - how you apply it is up to you,,, EVERYTHING has color - even YOUR existing driveway AND aggregate whether you agree or not,,, more'n likely your d/w conc mix design includ'd GRAY portland cement,,, you can find just-add-wtr polymer-mod'd o'lay mtl at apron/vest stores but it TOO is gray*



He is not hung up on colour, he would like to do it so the top of the aggregate is still exposed. :wink2: Would he be able to wipe ,brush or hose off the very top at some point in the process.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*have no idea how fast op'd become proficient,,, that's how we do it,,, o'lay mtls're demonstrated on u-tube,,, we have 1 3man crew just doing this item all season long,,, their equip = 4k psi 4gpm press wshr w/turbo nozzle, wtr hoses, backpack blower, 1/2" mixing drill, squeegee's, & brooms*


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Thanks for the extra info stadry. Neal is right, though, I don;t care about the color... just having the aggregate "peak through" and shows it's own natural colors once the job is done. Have you guys done this before on an exposed aggregate surface and still end up with the natural aggregate color showing through?

The final appearance I'm hoping to obtain is what the driveway looked like about 25 years ago (not brand new, just with much less concrete material being worn or pressure washed from between the surface aggregate. Does that make sense?


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Thanks for the extra info stadry. Neal is right, though, it isn't the color which worries me... it's just that I don't want the aggregate to be "painted" so that its natural colors "peak through" once the job is done. 

Have you guys done this before on an exposed aggregate surface and still end up with the natural aggregate color showing through?

The final appearance I want is what the driveway looked like about 25 years ago (not brand new, just with much less concrete material being worn or pressure washed from between the surface aggregate. Does that make sense?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

F250 said:


> Thanks for the extra info stadry. Neal is right, though, it isn't the color which worries me... it's just that I don't want the aggregate to be "painted" so that its natural colors "peak through" once the job is done.
> 
> Have you guys done this before on an exposed aggregate surface and still end up with the natural aggregate color showing through?
> 
> The final appearance I want is what the driveway looked like about 25 years ago (not brand new, just with much less concrete material being worn or pressure washed from between the surface aggregate. Does that make sense?


Make some frames and do some samples make it an inch thick pat the pea gravel in so it looks like the driveway and wait a couple days and squeegee a layer on top and see how, what works to get what you are after.


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

That's a good idea, Neal. I'm not leaning towards doing this myself right now, though. I'm pulling at the gray matter here in DIY as a precursor to interviewing some concrete contractors. However, I suspect their pricing may push me into doing it myself, if it gets done. 

In the meantime, we have a task of completely repainting the kitchen cabinets and doors which we painted two years ago -- the color has darkened to what we consider a dated God-awful 80's grandma beige. This next paint job is going to be a very soft white, which is what we should have done to begin with. Once that is done, we have a complete gut & remodel of our Master Bath (new tub, new shower, two vanities, mirrors, elimination of lighting cavities above the vanities, and new floor tile).


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## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

You can get UV stable clear epoxy and apply yourself. Easy enough, and it will last a long time (years) there is even a slip resistant additive you can put in the top coat to prevent slipping when wet. The nice part is once the epoxy is applied the degradation will stop with the surface concrete. It will be shiny, if thats ok.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*we would NEVER apply epoxy in any exterior situation*


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

> You can get UV stable clear epoxy and apply yourself.


These people say otherwise.
https://www.zeraus.com/articles-of-interests/88-does-uv-resistant-epoxy-exist

My observations of epoxy-pebble toppings in a high UV area is you really need to apply a sealer once a year to maintain it. Some commercial locations do. 
Most homeowners don’t due to expense. So it starts looking bad in a few years. (That a judgement call on Bad, others maybe more tolerant of the ambering/fading.)

Lower UV exposure would also extend the life. 
However, the OP is in Alabama.


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## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

Im surprised you have never applied epoxy outside (stadry). I have done quite a lot. I have seen some "green up" and some yellow. However There are epoxies on the market that dont do either. Ive installed epoxies in parking garages that have lasted years. Ultimately its up to you decide. We are just giving different opinions on how to deal with your current project.


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## F250 (Feb 13, 2018)

Update.

Since we have maxed out our investment in this house, and I'm getting ready to review and compare and consider two different job offers in other locations (and it's very likely that I will accept one of the offers)... the next owner can deal with this issue.

I appreciate all the input from you guys, and will file it away in the back of my mind for potential future cases in my next life at a new (to me) home.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*epoxy & parking garages may be for jnt reprs,,, the rest if the sf is a auto traffic compatible coating,,, uncertain epoxy's affordable compared to traffic coatings*


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*that's why we use push brooms instead of trowels*


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

*good idea - sample plates to help a diy'er learn technique,,, we're just used to it & use pushbrooms,,, knock off the collected boogers into a wheelbarrow full of water which keeps brooms clean,,, not going to get all cement paste off but, since that's the weakest part of concrete, it will wear off in time*


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