# Starting with the ceiling, is blocking needed at all edges?



## toobhed (Aug 3, 2011)

If the wall is going to help support the ceiling, is it ok if there is nothing to screw into at the edges or on corners? I am finishing a basement and some of the walls are 4"-6" or more from the joist, and some corners will be a foot or more from anything to secure the ceiling Sheetrock. I'm not sure if I have to put in blocking. I may even be putting up two layers of 5/8" Sheetrock along with other techniques for soundproofing.


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

If you don't support the sheet rock in those areas, your joints will crack. If you have the head room, you should furr in the whole ceiling. not only will this solve your issues in the corners, but it will give you a chance to see and fix any places where your ceiling is uneven.


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## TrapperL (Jul 23, 2011)

Builders here allow the ceiling and wall joints to float by not nailing/screwing within 16" of the corners where the walls and ceiling meet. They use drywall clips instead. Because we have such high PI here and the soil along with the foundations move so much, this eliminates most drywall cracks in this area.


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## havalife (Mar 23, 2011)

2 layers of drywall is a bit much. I would suggest RC Cannel and maybe insulation http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/channel.htm
You will need to do some more framing with the way the pictures look. You need backing at the corner which you can nail a flat 2x to the top plate and have it overhang to get the edge nailing on the 1st picture, you need to make a box around the drain pipe in the 2nd picture, 3rd picture looks like you have less then a 4" gap to the wall from the joist, I would be good with that but you need to add a stud in the corner of the wall for nailing. Don't worry about the space between the joist you don't need nailing.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I wouldn't worry with the places that are just a few inches. It will "float" that far with no ill effects (even 1/2" rock).


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## TrapperL (Jul 23, 2011)

I'd like to ask a question to the OP, noticing that in the 2nd from the top pic, there appears to be a sewer pipe running over the top of the box for the light fixture. Is this a legal installation in your area?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Floating corners and drywall clips: http://bestdrywall.com/files/ReduceCallbacks.pdf

Close off that chase, fire-block every 10’ lineally and top of walls to concrete/joist bays: http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/

Leave an access for the water supply valves. Get rid of the poly on the concrete walls unless required by local Code; http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...rol-for-new-residential-buildings?full_view=1

Gary


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## toobhed (Aug 3, 2011)

A lot of useful info, thank you guys.

Looks like I have some more drywall prep to do. Seems to be the consensus less than 4" and it can float? The poly was one of the recommended methods, the 1" gap between the framing and block with paper faced pink insulation in the walls paper facing the sheetrock. I live in ne Ohio and we have cold winters so that's what the guys around here suggested. I am getting more info on soundproofing, I have been recommended to use iso clips and two layers of 5/8" withe green glue in between.

I posted the question about the light in the electrical forum. I don't see why that would be an issue, but will get some other opinions.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f18/ok-install-light-near-drain-pipe-117590/#post730646

Fireblocking...ok, I have some more research to do, thanks for the info.


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## toobhed (Aug 3, 2011)

When you guys are putting in wood for the corners and edges of the walls like the examples above, is it ok to use scrap 2x4? When I say scrap I mean 8" or longer bits and pieces? I have a lot of that from the build. Or is that sloppy?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

You can sometimes use "L" metal flashing, screw to the top plate flush with ceiling line elevation. Screw the ceiling to that, close to the corner for best rigidity. Small pieces will also work, though time consuming.

Gary


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## havalife (Mar 23, 2011)

2x4 is pretty cheap, get some instead of trying to piece a bunch of scrap wood together. Do some more research on sound proofing I still think if you only use 2 layers you are making a lot of work and not getting the best soundproofing for the money you will spend it is not doing anything for the noise that will bounce around in the joist bay. Even in condos I usually had insulation between the joists, RC Channel, 1 layer of 5/8 drywall. Using insulation or other material in the joist bay will help deaden the sound.


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## toobhed (Aug 3, 2011)

havalife said:


> 2x4 is pretty cheap, get some instead of trying to piece a bunch of scrap wood together. Do some more research on sound proofing I still think if you only use 2 layers you are making a lot of work and not getting the best soundproofing for the money you will spend it is not doing anything for the noise that will bounce around in the joist bay. Even in condos I usually had insulation between the joists, RC Channel, 1 layer of 5/8 drywall. Using insulation or other material in the joist bay will help deaden the sound.


I was getting info from this site:
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/sp-solutions/soundproofing-ceilings/

I don't want to spend anymore money than I have to > and saving time is always nice. The methods pitched on this site seem reasonable compared to quietrock and the like. But if it is not worth it, and I'm not sold for or against yet, I would rather save time and money. Theater room in the basement that can rock out without waking the kiddies is my goal.


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## toobhed (Aug 3, 2011)

Havalife, you mentioned having experience soundproofing. What I am seeing on these sites is the use of sound isolation clips and hat channel as you mentioned. The price of these clips is 4-5 dollars. Is that for one clip or a box? What kind of prices have you seen? If 5 bucks a clip is normal that is pretty much a budget buster for me. Hoping for better news


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## dtcrneck (Sep 23, 2011)

This what I know about soundproofing cause my husband who is an expert will be soundproofing the basement room where my teenage son plays drums. Serious noise/volume- lead line then drywall he says we will hear nothing. Not cheap though. There is this donaconda (spl) board that you can put up. He's talked about the channel rods and proper batt sound insulation. I just wish he wasn't so busy with paying projects, so it would get done 

Couple questions though: if you put poly on exterior walls did you use accoustical sealant or Tuck Tape around windows, base of wall, electrical boxes etc? Otherwise the cold air will still come through and moisture could build up. I live in northern Alberta, I understand cold.

If you have to access mechanical in the ceiling why not use grid and tiles? You can get some really mice ones especially if you look at commercial stuff. You can gt ones with different sound absorption rates.


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## toobhed (Aug 3, 2011)

dtcrneck said:


> This what I know about soundproofing cause my husband who is an expert will be soundproofing the basement room where my teenage son plays drums. Serious noise/volume- lead line then drywall he says we will hear nothing. Not cheap though. There is this donaconda (spl) board that you can put up. He's talked about the channel rods and proper batt sound insulation. I just wish he wasn't so busy with paying projects, so it would get done
> 
> Couple questions though: if you put poly on exterior walls did you use accoustical sealant or Tuck Tape around windows, base of wall, electrical boxes etc? Otherwise the cold air will still come through and moisture could build up. I live in northern Alberta, I understand cold.
> 
> If you have to access mechanical in the ceiling why not use grid and tiles? You can get some really mice ones especially if you look at commercial stuff. You can gt ones with different sound absorption rates.


Lead lined walls, that would be awesome! Would help in case of nukelar attack as (old gw bush would say) lol

Seriously though, any worry of contamination with that? Doubtfully I would use it just curious. I have found a bunch of options, I think the lead would follow the more mass principle. I found this "mass loaded vinyl" sheets that has some kind of dense layer but talk about pricey! The Donaconda sounds like soundboard some people build with, sounds like it works well. All the sites want to sell the green glue now it seems. I am choking over the price of this stuff, I mean the iso clips are like 5 bucks each. It would cost me three grand to do all walls and ceilings and that is just too expensive for me. We thought about tile ceiling but felt Sheetrock would be less costly and look better, but the main reason was trying not to give up any ceiling height.

Since I am on a very tight budget I have to determine if the treatment I can afford will even be worth it since I can't to the distance. I mean, if I can only treat the ceiling in one room will it even help?

As far as the poly, yeah it is taped up tight.


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## dtcrneck (Sep 23, 2011)

My suggestion would be to go to drywall supply company that the Commercial Drywallers use. Many of them will have everything you need along with a great deal of knowledge. You most likely won't get it at the prices like we get b/c we have to have accounts and be a LTD company. But given you economy they might be hurting enough to give you a pretty good discount. Besides, the bigger discount at a big box store may not be as valuable as the educated and free advice. I know if my husband was in a store and somebody came in asking questions he'd help. And you only get what you need. If you have a difficult time call a few Commercial Drywall companies and ask them who they use for a drywall supplier. if you go with a grid ceiling, buy 2x4 commercial tiles cut them in half and do 2x2 grid, will look professionally done and they are really nice. Get a water leak and replace a tile not a soggy, likely moldy sheet of heavy drywall.


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## havalife (Mar 23, 2011)

If you are looking at cost then I will suggest looking at doing R-30 insulation between the joist that will be about .50 cents a foot.

Install the RC Channel perpendicular to the joists at 16"oc, use 1-1 1/4" screw to hold it. That will be about $1 a lf of channel. 

Try not to put anything in the ceiling like can lights, but if you do have lights in the ceiling I would suggest boxing them in and install 5/8 drywall inside the box, then add the light and seal any penitrations. This may create an overheating problem with some lights be sure to check out what lights you get.

You can go more expensive then this but this should do a good job for the money you will spend.

If you want to spend more then start with the joist bay and look at doing Mineral wool or Knauf Fiberglass acoustic board below the insulation that will add another $1 per sq'.

Make sure you seal all gaps, holes, and any penitration.

Your budget sets what you want to do.


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