# Easiest way to paint/finish baseboard/window/door trim in entire house?



## Michael-stl (Feb 25, 2012)

Hello, we've recently purchased our first home which needed massive renovations, and this and another forum have been invaluable in having already answered any questions I've had but I was hoping for specific insight into a problem I am now facing.

Basically, all floors in the entire house have been or are being redone, so all of the baseboard trim was removed from every room. This house was built in 1997 and while being in a very nice neighborhood, it seems they went the least expensive route on everything they could have for the interior.

So all of the baseboards and window/door trim are, afaik, MDF painted white. We were wanting to keep it white for the ease factor, and originally decided on Dover White from Sherwin Williams as our trim color. However, with the difficulty of this and everything else we need to get done, we are no longer particular about the color as long as it's white, whether Dover White, Killz or whatever.

*The Problem*

*For Baseboards* - I've tried sanding the MDF baseboards and it is extremely difficult to sand by hand and before I try a power sander I'm hoping there is an easier way, like perhaps just painting over them.

I have a piece of broken baseboard I'm using to test on that is drying in the basement now - on one section I tried just roughing it up with a fine grain sanding sponge and painting over it with Killz Latex using a painting sponge brush.

*For Door/Window Trim* - Before our carpet was installed, I had painted the door/window trim in 2 rooms by just going over it with SW Dover White, I knew I should have at least sanded it somewhat first but we were on a tight schedule and I didn't want to sand when the carpet was installed so I tried it and it seemed to hold well so I didn't give a second thought to it.

Now a month later, I can see it is very brittle, so I guess whatever we do for the basetrim I will have to do for the window/door trim as well. Which this makes things more complicated than just power sanding and repainting since it's a PAIN to get the door trim off and I haven't even attempted to get window trim off yet but I can only imagine.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Michael-stl said:


> Hello, we've recently purchased our first home which needed massive renovations, and this and another forum have been invaluable in having already answered any questions I've had but I was hoping for specific insight into a problem I am now facing.
> 
> Basically, all floors in the entire house have been or are being redone, so all of the baseboard trim was removed from every room. This house was built in 1997 and while being in a very nice neighborhood, it seems they went the least expensive route on everything they could have for the interior.
> 
> ...


I hope this helps.


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

First of all Kilz is not a suitable finish coat and it is actually not that great a primer. If you have a coat of primer or paint on the woodwork, you shouldn't have to prime but your patches and repairs although a new primer/underlay would make your finish coat go on better.

A good quality sash brush is a must for this and expect to pay $15-18 for one. 2.5 angled sash is the type I use most and usually Purdy or Wooster. If you take care of it you will have it for a long time. I actually like to keep brushes for semi-gloss and trim finishes separate from those used for primer and wall paint. I actually start the life of a brush on trim where I want as few brush marks as possible and move it to use on walls. 

If you have wide trim a roller can work but I would use a fabric, not a foam one. I find it just as fast to paint trim with a brush. You will have to chase the roller with a brush anyhow. You can get 4" rollers for window and door trim. I am always skeptical of those bag-o-brushes and shrink wrapped roller pan specials. 

What kind of paint were you using? Trim is typically done in a higher sheen like at least eggshell and usually semi-gloss or gloss and it sounds like you might have been using flat, satin or something if it feels brittle? Semi-gloss takes 30 days to fully cure. I liked adding Floetrol per instructions to smooth out brush marks but consider it an option. 

I used to paint trim before the final coat of wall finish. It is easier to cut in walls to the trim than trying to cut in the 1/2"-1" trim edge to the wall. You shouldn't have to pull the door and window trim off.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Once again, Sdsester has it right. You have a huge advantage with the trim off. Now you can set up sawhorses, use a whizz roller, and backbrush with a good nylon paint brush. Easypeezylemonsqueezy. For trim I like to use SW's Proclassic waterbourne or SuperPaint Semi-gloss. I have no idea why your paint is brittle. In over 30 years of painting I've never seen latex become brittle right after application. If it was an Oil-based paint, I could understand the brittle comment. If you feel you must prime, use a good bonding primer such as Zinsser's 1-2-3. It will bond to any type of older paint and give your new topcoats something to "bite" onto.


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## tstanbro (Aug 16, 2011)

Sirs
I live in alaska and, I have build a cabin by a lake, I have used green board all thru out the cabin. I am now ready to paint. Any succession on primer for moisture and a finish paint companies.

I will be going up in the winter so I will have to deal with moisture, that is why I when with green board.


Thanks


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## BraniksPainting (Jan 20, 2012)

tstanbro said:


> Sirs
> I live in alaska and, I have build a cabin by a lake, I have used green board all thru out the cabin. I am now ready to paint. Any succession on primer for moisture and a finish paint companies.
> 
> I will be going up in the winter so I will have to deal with moisture, that is why I when with green board.
> ...


Any good primer will do. In areas with high moisture, I prefer to use Sherwin Williams Loxon Masonary primer. Yes, I know you are applying it on drywall but it provides great protection. Your top coat will provide you with the moisture protection but here are some excellent choices. For finish paint, I personally would use Sherwin Williams SuperPaint.
*PRIMER*
(if needed)
Premium Wall & Wood Interior Latex
Loxon Concrete & Masonry

*SUGGESTED FINISH*
Duration Home®
Cashmere®
SuperPaint®
ProClassic®


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## tstanbro (Aug 16, 2011)

*Green board*

Thanks for the info, I will go and check it out at the paint store.

Alaska


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