# Garrison Smart Lock for Front Door



## stuntwei (Jan 20, 2014)

Hi everybody,

I'm new to this site so please bear with me. I recently installed a Garrison Keyless Entry Deadbolt Lock for the front door of my house. The lock works if I turn it manually, meaning if I use a key from the outside or the switch on the inside of the house. If I try to unlock the door using the code, it will try to turn but is unable to do so. It seems to be jammed in some sense. The code I am using is 100% for sure working because I see a green light and it is in fact trying to turn. I can lock the door electronically however. Why can I only unlock the door manually and not electronically. Please help. It kinda defeats the whole purpose of a keyless entry lock if I have to use a key.


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## TheBobmanNH (Oct 23, 2012)

Did you try contacting the company that makes the thing? It's possibly defective. Not sure how strong the little motor is that unlocks, is it possible there's a little too much friction on the bolt so the motor can't overcome it when unlocking?


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## stuntwei (Jan 20, 2014)

By recently, I mean a few hours ago so I have not contacted the company yet. If it is friction, how can I fix it? I don't think WD40 will do it. There doesn't seem to be that much friction when I open it manually. Hmm...


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

stuntwei said:


> By recently, I mean a few hours ago so I have not contacted the company yet. If it is friction, how can I fix it? I don't think WD40 will do it. There doesn't seem to be that much friction when I open it manually. Hmm...


Could be that the striker plate for the Deadbolt, is set in a way that the bolt catches on it, causing the motor to not push it all the way out.

You are going to have to check to see if the bolt is catching on the Striker plate, and either file the edge to allow the bolt to pass through freely, or pull the plate, put Bondo in the hole, let the filler dry, then cut in a new hole for the bolt to go into.


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## stuntwei (Jan 20, 2014)

Could that still apply to when the bolt is going back into the door (unlocking). I would have thought that it can only catch on the way out (locking) since it is smooth going back inside.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

stuntwei said:


> Could that still apply to when the bolt is going back into the door (unlocking). I would have thought that it can only catch on the way out (locking) since it is smooth going back inside.


Yes, if it was pushed outwards. You have to have a clean throw for the deadbolt to go into the hole of the striker plate.

If the plate is not in the right place, the bolt will catch or drag, so you usually have to pull or push on the door, to get the bolt to go into the striker hole cleanly.


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## stuntwei (Jan 20, 2014)

Hmm, i'll have to look into it then. On a warmer day though. It was really cold today. Froze my hands lol.


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

stuntwei said:


> Hmm, i'll have to look into it then. On a warmer day though. It was really cold today. Froze my hands lol.


If it has been sub-freezing temps, it can cause issues also, if there is no Storm door, or the storm door leaks too much air, causing a thermal difference between it and the main door.

I ended up just using a couple of files, from a set that I picked up at the local Harbor Freight. Took enough of the metal off of my Striker Plate, that the Dead bolt throws cleanly into the opening. Unless they drill the hole in the jamb for the Dead bolt, you always end up doing it yourself, and usually it is not perfect.

Also on another note, use 2 1/2" or 3" screws on the hinges and the striker plates. Makes it harder for someone to kick in the door.


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