# Color matched wood putty



## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

I am installing wall this http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1wall base & door casing. I'd like to get the exact color match putty for it. The base board & casing is WHITE OAK 800. I am using this http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100376132/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=minwax+putty&storeId=10051#specifications 
WHITE 900 wood putty from Minwax, it's close but I can't find a White Oak 800 number on anything. Any suggestions?

Kevin


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Whites are hard to match---you will need to sample some different brands and see what works--


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

I am confused. The product specs at the URL you listed say the material is plastic in a white oak color. You are probably going to have to glue the molding, not nail it. At least I have never had but marginal luck nailing plastic. You should have no need for a wood putty if you have no nail holes? Just caulk for joints? Getting either to adhere to plastic might be frustrating.:huh: 

Sure you want a plastic product for baseboard and trim. You may find it challenging when it needs paint or other touchup. It could look pretty bad, very fast if it gets scuffed up. And it will. I think you would be better off spending a bit more for real wood trim.


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## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

The product is in the plastic family. It's a polymer that has properties very similar to hardened spray foam. The manufacturer's installation instructions say nothing about glue but suggest the typical 6D & 4D finish nails and filling the holes with colored putty or caulk. Admittedly I'm not a professional trim guy but glue would not work in a "typical" reno where the walls are not true, out of plumb and full of irregularities etc. The nails work fine, I can set them and conceal them with the putty. I just wish the manufacturer (LP Building products) would suggest an exact color match or carry their own line.


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

don't ever feel bad about mixing fillers to make it work. If it's a solid word, I've used the saw dust mixed with a bit of wood glue to get an exact match....and cheap too. Just know you can't usually stain wood glue, so do this last.


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## Bonzai (Oct 29, 2010)

cibula11 said:


> don't ever feel bad about mixing fillers to make it work. If it's a solid word, I've used the saw dust mixed with a bit of wood glue to get an exact match....and cheap too. Just know you can't usually stain wood glue, so do this last.


Same trick I use with glue and saw dust from a piece of the trim ... But as it doesn't appear to be wood trim you're back to mixing fillers to get a match.


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## kevsprojects (Jul 8, 2011)

I like the sawdust trick! The White Oak putty I'm using seems to release a minute amount of oil (or whatever the chemical is) into the trim. Kinda weird but I'm trying to make that work for me instead of against me. This effect works ok for inside corners, gives the corner a slight shadowing effect. For now, I need to stick with this trim I'm using so I can operate with "predictable" results. I'm not set up to stain/finish real wood trim from scratch yet. Although I think that would be really neat! Do any of you have any input on the preferred fastener for typical trim? My 6D, 4D and occasional 3D nails seem to be fulfilling the basic requirement of pinning and holding it in place with concealment ability.


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

I've used the product that you are referring to. It's a pain to work with as nails don't seem to hold it well....I used a combo of nails and construction adhesive like loctite or liquid nails. Why not use white painters's caulk to fill in the holes/seams? The holes left by a nail aren't that big and you are only going to have a couple every 16" or so.....so you shouldn't see any sort of difference in color.


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