# How to plumb laundry sink and washer...



## bcbud3

My main vent/drain pipe is approx 15' away from where i want my sink and washer to be. it is on the right side of the wall similar to the pic. I would like the sink to the left of the washer. Could someone tell me the proper way to plumb this...thanks


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## adpanko

First decide how you are going to drain your washer. Are you going to run a dedicated stand pipe like the guy is doing in that picture? If you do a standpipe for the washer, I think that needs to be 2". But if you drain the washer into a sink, the sink only needs to be a 1.5" drain. If you going to drain it into your sink? I personally prefer this:

http://www.mustee.com/products/utilatub/94.shtml

It is a sink that has a washer drain integrated into the tub of the sink, instead of just draping the washer drain hose over the side of the sink.So anyway, whichever way you end up doing it, you have to keep in mind venting requirements. Assuming your drain is all 1.5" PVC, the maximum distance you can have from the trap to a vent (or the stack) is 3.5' I think (maybe a little more or less, check whichever code your town uses). So once you know how your sink and washer will drain, you'll then know where your trap(s) are going to be, then you know where you'll need to run your vent.

If you can't, or don't want to run a vent, you might be able to use something called an automatic air vent (AAV). It is a work around to not having a vent within the required distance. Some towns allow them, some don't. My town goes off of the 2006 National Standard Plumbing Code, which allows AAVs. But for whatever reason, my town says AAVs can't be used.


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## plummen

Normally the washing machine is run independently of everything else on its own 2" waste line to a 3" line with it a 2" vent line around here anyway.
If you are going to tie another fixture on the same 3" pipe id make sure you have atleast 5' of pipe between the tie in of the washer line and trap of other fixture to prevent soap backing into line from washer dumping


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## bcbud3

couple of things...the pipes circled can be whatever distance needed from the main vent stack, correct? (in my case about 12 feet). As long as the drain p trap is within 5 ft from the vent pipe...my old existing vent stack is a 2" pipe.

if i just continue to drain wash machine into sink, what size drain should sink be?


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## adpanko

bcbud3 said:


> couple of things...the pipes circled can be whatever distance needed from the main vent stack, correct? (in my case about 12 feet). As long as the drain p trap is within 5 ft from the vent pipe...my old existing vent stack is a 2" pipe.
> 
> if i just continue to drain wash machine into sink, what size drain should sink be?


Yes, the horizontal runs can be however long you need them to be, BUT they need to be pitched. The drain needs to be pitched downward (toward the stack) at a rate of at least 0.25" per 1' of run. The vent should be sloped UPWARD, but I don't know if it needs to be as aggressive as 0.25" per 1'. If you keep your washer drained into the sink, then the sink only needs a drain line of 1.5".


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## plummen

What he said. :thumbsup:Hopefully your san-tee will be closer to 15-16" off the ground where its tied into stack in order to give you a little more room between the the trap and washer box.
And that purple primer thats slopped all over in that picture is for below ground work,you can use clear primer above ground.


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## Alan

you could do it something like this http://rejuvenationprojects.files.wordpress.com/2010/01/img_3191.jpg

There are a lot of different ways to do it, and as long as it meets code, you've done it right. Hard to tell without seeing exactly what your piping layout is currently

Nevermind, i forgot you said your drain was on the left. I was looking at it last night and trying to find a pic this morning.


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## Alan

plummen said:


> What he said. :thumbsup:Hopefully your san-tee will be closer to 15-16" off the ground where its tied into stack in order to give you a little more room between the the trap and washer box.
> And that purple primer thats slopped all over in that picture is for below ground work,you can use clear primer above ground.


Oregon code this year does not require primer on DWV anymore. :huh:

Not sure if that's a good idea or not, but we use ABS at our shop.


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## bcbud3

my current setup is basically a 2" vent stack on the right side of the wall with a 1 1/2" pipe about 5' long to a sink drain. My washer drains into the sink. similar to the pic but without any piping for a washer.


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## bcbud3

sink is temped up right now. I would like to move it and the washer to the left side of the dryer (left corner of pic). You can see the vent in the pic. I will eventually frame out a new half wall.


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## plummen

Alan said:


> Oregon code this year does not require primer on DWV anymore. :huh:
> 
> Not sure if that's a good idea or not, but we use ABS at our shop.


 some of the all weather glues dont require primer anymore either.Ihate working with abs because i always spend the next week trying to scrub that black goo off my hands! :laughing:


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## Alan

plummen said:


> some of the all weather glues dont require primer anymore either.Ihate working with abs because i always spend the next week trying to scrub that black goo off my hands! :laughing:


The trick is to get A TON on you if you get a little bit. It peels off easier that way. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## plummen

you make it sound so easy! ive got this thing about wiping the extra glue off the joints ,pvc cement is a lot easier to hide on my fingers! :laughing:


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## Alan

plummen said:


> you make it sound so easy! ive got this thing about wiping the extra glue off the joints ,pvc cement is a lot easier to hide on my fingers! :laughing:


One of the guys I work with is so sloppy with the ABS glue, he does that and then wipes it on his jeans. He throws a pair of pants away every couple weeks. :huh::no:


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## plumbstar

Isn't the trap supposed to be within 12" of the floor? Why not just lay the santeee on its back for the vent


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## TVTech

adpanko said:


> First decide how you are going to drain your washer. Are you going to run a dedicated stand pipe like the guy is doing in that picture? If you do a standpipe for the washer, I think that needs to be 2". But if you drain the washer into a sink, the sink only needs to be a 1.5" drain. If you going to drain it into your sink? I personally prefer this:
> 
> http://www.mustee.com/products/utilatub/94.shtml
> 
> It is a sink that has a washer drain integrated into the tub of the sink, instead of just draping the washer drain hose over the side of the sink.So anyway, whichever way you end up doing it, you have to keep in mind venting requirements. Assuming your drain is all 1.5" PVC, the maximum distance you can have from the trap to a vent (or the stack) is 3.5' I think (maybe a little more or less, check whichever code your town uses). So once you know how your sink and washer will drain, you'll then know where your trap(s) are going to be, then you know where you'll need to run your vent.
> 
> If you can't, or don't want to run a vent, you might be able to use something called an automatic air vent (AAV). It is a work around to not having a vent within the required distance. Some towns allow them, some don't. My town goes off of the 2006 National Standard Plumbing Code, which allows AAVs. But for whatever reason, my town says AAVs can't be used.


I'm NOT a plumber, but I don't recommend an AAV on a washer vent. I live in a mobile home that has one. The washer builds up pressure in the line due to the check valve in the AAV and "bubbles" sewage air up the kitchen sink trap.


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