# Drylok - How much time between 2nd coat & rain?



## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

You're applying drylok on the outside?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Post a picture of this outside wall, there's something Dryloc's not going to fix going on if waters getting in.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

as i recall, 1 of the 1st things waterproofing pro's learn is NEVER use drylock-type stuff,,, its GREAT if you own the company but that's about it impo

' assume ' isn't a good word to use in the same post either :furious:


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## goshenplumber (Mar 4, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Post a picture of this outside wall, there's something Dryloc's not going to fix going on if waters getting in.


My apologies - I should have posted a picture with my original post. I have attached 2 pics. AS to how I know that the seepage is coming from the block? A contractor and I removed the paneling in the room and could see the seepage location. However, perhaps Drylok is not the solution?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Dry Loc over a painted surface is useless.
What's the distance from the bottom of the siding to at least 2"'s below the slab?
I'd be slipping Z under the siding and using vinyl lumber Tap Coned to the block.
Never need to be painted, weed whackers not going to effect it, 100% water proof.


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## goshenplumber (Mar 4, 2011)

joecaption said:


> Dry Loc over a painted surface is useless.
> What's the distance from the bottom of the siding to at least 2"'s below the slab?
> I'd be slipping Z under the siding and using vinyl lumber Tap Coned to the block.
> Never need to be painted, weed whackers not going to effect it, 100% water proof.


Distance from bottom of sided to 2" below slab is about 15".

My idea was to wire brush the old paint off and then apply Drylok. Is your solution better?

You mentioned "slipping Z under the siding and using vinyl lumber Tap Coned to the block". I plead ignorance. What do you mean by "Z" and "vinyl lumber Tap Coned"? I searched the web for "vinyl lumber Tap Coned" and got no hits. I would appreciate if you would elaborate a bit. Thank you for your help!!!!!!!!


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## goshenplumber (Mar 4, 2011)

stick\shift said:


> You're applying drylok on the outside?


Yes - on the outside.


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## goshenplumber (Mar 4, 2011)

stadry said:


> as i recall, 1 of the 1st things waterproofing pro's learn is NEVER use drylock-type stuff,,, its GREAT if you own the company but that's about it impo
> 
> ' assume ' isn't a good word to use in the same post either :furious:


Can you elaborate on why not to use Drylok? I know folks who swear by the stuff. What are the problems with using it?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Drylok would only work on clean new concrete or block.
Vinyl and PVC lumber are the same thing. 
Tap Cons are screws made for for attaching things to concrete.


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## stadry (Jun 20, 2009)

this is only a wag but ' folks who swear by the stuff ' usually either sell it OR aren't wtrproofing pro's,,, we typically repr plumber attempts @ wtrproofing about 12x per yr :yes: i know of no pro who'd stake his reputation on it


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## goshenplumber (Mar 4, 2011)

stadry said:


> this is only a wag but ' folks who swear by the stuff ' usually either sell it OR aren't wtrproofing pro's,,, we typically repr plumber attempts @ wtrproofing about 12x per yr :yes: i know of no pro who'd stake his reputation on it


I appreciate your insight. I know folks in my area who have successfully used Drylok. These are people I have known for years. I have been to their house and seen the application. Drylok worked for them.

Perhaps people use Drylok in applications where it is not recommended? Or perhaps the surface to which it was applied was not properly prepared and that is why sometimes it fails?


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Does the manufacturer recommend that product on the exterior? http://neutocrete.com/drylok-an-honest-review

It may feed the mold; http://neutocrete.com/what-is-drylock-and-does-it-work

Gary


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I'm a painter in the biz since 1978..........DRYLOCK is NOT to be used on exteriors. You need a cement based coating like Thoroseal for exteriors. As stated several times, even on interior walls DRYLOCK is, at best, a product that holds back small infiltrations of water, water that may make walls moist. If water is puddling on the basement floors, DRYLOCK won't adequately stop that kind of water infiltration.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

From my experience in north country DryLoc does not withstand freeze - thaw cycles. It traps moisture from within the block near the surface. As temps freeze the trapped moisture freezes, and pushes away from the wall in small sheets, taking some of your wall with it. While it may be great in the south, I have had much better results with Thoroseal products, they allow the wall to breath and release trapped moisture.

I would use a water plug product between the ledge and wall prior to coating.


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## goshenplumber (Mar 4, 2011)

Yodaman said:


> From my experience in north country DryLoc does not withstand freeze - thaw cycles. It traps moisture from within the block near the surface. As temps freeze the trapped moisture freezes, and pushes away from the wall in small sheets, taking some of your wall with it. While it may be great in the south, I have had much better results with Thoroseal products, they allow the wall to breath and release trapped moisture.
> 
> I would use a water plug product between the ledge and wall prior to coating.


Thank you for the info. My plan is to wire brush the block to remove all old paint, etc, then plug the edge between vertical block and horizontal slab, then coat the wall.

BTW - which Thoroseal product do I use? There are 4 different products - "Concrete & Masonary sealer", "Foundation coating", "Waterproof cement", and "Waterproofing paint". 

Thank you.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

After all paint removal, chip or grind a small groove in the corner so the water plug mortar will grab and stay. Use a masons pointing tool or a 1" putty knife to create a smooth transition from the vertical to horizontal surface. Prior to applying the water plug I would brush on a coat of Welddrete masonary bonding agent. This aids bonding in new to old concrete. It will also help adhesion with the Thoroseal especially over any sound paint that did not get removed.

Regarding the Thorseal, my local dealers do not carry the foundation coating, and have used used only the general Concrete and masonary sealer.

Follow the directions regarding keeping surfaces damp and recoat time.

Good luck


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