# How much mud to apply?



## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

I am Deaf, so I wouldn't get much talking information from YouTube (some don't have subtitles). So, I am going to ask here...

When applying drywall joint tape, first, smear mud (setting type or green lid) on the joints, then poke the tape on the mud (making sure it's center to the line), then squeeze on/over the tape, then smear more mud on top of tape, then level the first coat. It's all done in first step.

With tapered edge butt joint, there would be some thickness of mud on top of tape. With one-side tapered edge or both sides non-tapered edge, the there would be very little mud on top of the tape (as in first coat). Correct? That goes the same for corners (corners tend to be half-half having tapered edge) and corner bends.

The question is how much mud to squeeze out when applying the tape? Should there be little mud behind the tape to have some adhesive? Or should it be completely squeezed out?

What would cause tape "blisters"? Would completely squeezing out the mud cause that?

Some used to wet the tape first then apply. I stopped doing that. Is it good or bad, in certain situations?


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

You only want a thin layer of mud under the tape hardly any over it. Bubbles are caused by a lack of mud under the tape. Thin coats of joint compound are generally best, figure on 3 separate coats of j/c each one feathered out wider to finish the job.

I never wet my tape, never had any issues although there are some that swear by it.


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

Others may have different ideas but here's what I do.
One the first coat, the mud under the tape is more important than the top. I don't want any part of the tape to be w/o mud & I don't "squeeze it out" completely.
It matters to me that the fold of the tape goes against the wall. That way it won't protrude. 
It's okay to wet the tape but just with your fingers. Don't run it under the faucet or soak it in a bucket.


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## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

> It matters to me that the fold of the tape goes against the wall. That way it won't protrude.


Same here...


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## MTN REMODEL LLC (Sep 11, 2010)

You definately want the back side of your tape embedded/all of it in your mud coat.

Think about production jobs that use a "banjo" to prewet the tape with mud before even applying it.

The mud acts as an adhesive. However, you need as thin a bed coat (under the tape) as reasonable.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

My opinion differs from others but I'll share. Note there is a lot more guidance that can be posted but this is for the tape.

PS, I'm deaf also and the videos without CC drive me wild.

By making multiple passes to squeeze out all extra mud you force the mud into the paper tape. By saturating the tape with mud it will be far less likely to blister. IMO, blisters are a result of dry tape, not a result of no mud under the tape. But wetting the tape, I never liked it.

Note, when I make multiple passes I angle the blade to allow the mud to squeeze out one side and then the next.

Bud


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## Guap0_ (Dec 2, 2017)

I didn't realize how many people have hearing problems. There are programs that convert Speech to Text & Text to Speech. They are made for the blind. I guess that they will work in the opposite direction. Jaws is most expensive but there are others. Investigate before you buy.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Ya, I went from having exceptional hearing (age 55) to very hard of hearing in 6 months and all of the specialists and clinics had no idea why. Since then my hearing has continued to drop and now my hearing aide barely helps, actually painful so use it very little. I do love the internet, just wish i had taken typing in HS.

I spent most of my working career in electronics so expect (if I live long enough, now 70) to eventually pick up a voice to text translator so I can see what people are saying.

Bud


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## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

er... I was _born_ Deaf 

<cough cough> lets get back to "how to mud the tape"


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## ron45 (Feb 25, 2014)

Add a little water to the mud
Mix it very good making it smooth and creamy but not as to fall off the blade.

A drywall lift makes life so much easier.

Smooth all coats so no sanding is necessary until it's time to paint.

Totally clean the area several times before painting.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

As Ron said with emphasis on "a little water". When I start a new 5 gallon pail of mud I check the consistency and add the splash of water if needed. I then use the drill powered beater to mix, but only the top 1/3rd. This way if I added too much water I can mix again moving down a couple of inches to bring in more stiffer mud. You can always add a teaspoon more water but you can't remove any. The mix as you go works well.

As a note and I'm not sure this is always an issue, but on one job the water I was mixing in was from a well. To my shock when I opened a half used bucket I was greeted with total black mold, a result of the well water. Tossed that bucket and brought in my own water from my house, treated city water. Fortunately never saw an issue with the mud I has already applied.

Bud


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## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

> but only the top 1/3rd. This way if I added too much water I can mix again moving down a couple of inches to bring in more stiffer mud. You can always add a teaspoon more water but you can't remove any. The mix as you go works well.


Interesting concept! Top only 1/3 and work from there...


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I also thin my mud slightly but generally do that in my mud pan.
On occasion I've taken mud that was too thin and added a setting compound to the portion I was ready to use to thicken it up. Once a setting compound is added any unused portion needs to be tossed out!


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## CNT (Mar 7, 2017)

Just wondering... any thoughts on joint tape have sticky side? To apply tape without mud behind it? Would that cause "blisters"? Like mesh tape, just apply the tape and then mud right over it? Would that save time/guesses having to smear mud then tape then more mud, all for first coat? Would that also cause to raise the price for sticky tape (and shorten the length per roll)?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

Paper tape needs mud behind it. The mesh tape allows the mud to pass through and get behind.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

The sticky tape [mesh] has a bad track record. It's prone to fail when regular joint compound is used although it does decent if it's locked down with a setting compound. The finish coats of mud can be regular j/c.


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