# Underground water line to garden?



## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

bump? Anyone have some experience they can lend me?


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## kjwoodworking (Nov 21, 2007)

I would try to connect to your water source and run PVC to start with.

I would start with a valve the right size of course http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=209665-34146-P200U-40&lpage=none

I would add one of these http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=79599-34146-P32S&lpage=none
in case of possible back flow into water system of any kind of auto fertilizer applicators.

I would then use something like this or a PVC T that has a threaded plug to remove to allow for purging pipe in winter. You would shut the water valve by the supply, open the valve at the garden, remove the plug, use air compressor, and blow out line. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=166444-33599-WM75&lpage=none

Use a fitting to connect to this kind of pipe. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=24169-000000150-24169&lpage=none


Then install a valve to connect hose at the other end for garden.

Go to your local home improvement store or hardware store. They will be glad to help!!!!


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## RippySkippy (Feb 9, 2007)

I think if your going to the effort of laying the water line...why not bury it below your local frost line, and put in a yard hydrant? It may be additional effort initially, but well worth it over the long haul. I like the black poly pipe and if you use any fittings in the ground, always use those made from cast red brass.

No mater what you do if you tie into a potable water system, make sure you use anti-siphon and back flow prevention devices. Not just to protect your family but it's the responsible thing to do.


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Thanks for the advice, both of you. 

KJ, is there a particular reason you'd use PVC? My plumbing is all copper, so converting to PVC, then to poly would mean more adaptors, and unless there's a good reason, I'd probably skip that and go straight to the poly. 

Rippy, our frost line is nearly 4 feet here, so it's no small feat to do the extra digging for a 4 season water line. Besides, then I'd have to penetrate the foundation below the frost line too. All of that would involve a lot more than a shovel and a wheelbarrow, and the costs would go way up. For my uses, the advantages would be minimal, so I think I'll stick with a shallow burial.


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## kjwoodworking (Nov 21, 2007)

> KJ, is there a particular reason you'd use PVC? My plumbing is all copper, so converting to PVC, then to poly would mean more adaptors, and unless there's a good reason, I'd probably skip that and go straight to the poly.


No particular reason. Most of the waterlines on my home are pvc from the water meter to the sink. I enjoy woodworking so much now that I would run wood pipe if I could.

I just wanted to help get you started. 

Usually if you post how to do something, it starts a barrage of posts from others on how they would do it, so I was hoping to get you a few ideas going.

Good luck with your plumbing project.


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

Nate, are you sure you're not running a water line to feed water to the illegal bathroom you're installing in the barn across the driveway?


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## sevver (Apr 28, 2008)

Even if I were only going a foot deep, I would rent a trencher, your back will thank you. And as far as the yard hydrant goes, I am a with it, I have installed a few and they are really nice.


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## LawnGuyLandSparky (Nov 18, 2007)

If he rents a ditch wich (man, they're fun!) might as well go down the entire 4' because it's just as easy. (Except for backfilling, which isn't too difficult either.) Still has to tunnel under the drive, which at 4' down will be a bear...


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## sevver (Apr 28, 2008)

Drive is gravel. And even if it were asphalt, it would go through it. I would saw cut first though, but since it is gravel that is a non issue.


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## MacRoadie (Apr 25, 2008)

Why not start with PVC and stick with it? It's going to be much easier to make up, more rigid, and much more resistant to damage (both impact and freezing).


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

I'd worry that PVC would get broken as the ground moves in spring and fall. My impression was that it was more brittle than the black poly piping. 

I was kinda hoping to skip the ditch witch this time, (rented it for a 100' electrical trench last year, and it was great) but I may change my mind after poking at the ground with a shovel for an hour. The excavation is almost entirely across the driveway, so I'm hoping that the digging would be easy (ie no ledge, of which we've got lots once you go down more than a foot). I think if I went 4 feet, even a trencher might not do the trick though. You get into some pretty serious rock up here, and homes are sometimes not even put on full-height basements because of the ledge that excavators run into. 

Thanks for all the input folks.


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## fiskz (Jun 10, 2009)

hoping to bump up this old thread.

I'm looking to run a supply to my garden as well. I plan on connecting to the outdoor faucet for the hose with a y-splitter that will be removed in the Winter season. And I would like to have a faucet near our garden pop out of the ground behind our garage. This will be a couple of hundred feet from the house faucet to meander around a large white pine tree. Someone in this thread suggested using http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...ctId=24169-000000150-24169&detail=&lpage=none would this be suitable for me? I've never done any plumbing, but know pvc is generally glued with connectors does that apply for this piping? At the same time I plan on running outdoor wire to bring some electricity to my garage so plan on renting a trencher and going down 2 feet.

Also for this setup do I need the back flow stopper? Should I blow out the lines in winter or will just opening connections suffice?


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I only had a short section of lawn to go across
I dug a trench & buried some old 2" PVC
I just push the house thru the pipe to use it in the garden area
You would need to go below the frost line in your area for a permanent solution


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