# 3-way corner near window, and frost question... Help!



## MnDrywallRanger (Mar 12, 2011)

shadarap said:


> Hi DIY'ers! This is my first post, but I have been a DIY person for awhile... well at least I try
> 
> So I have finished drywalling my basement, and had the help of my father-in-law to mud and tape the basement. We have ran into problems now where we are dealing with a 3-way corner (see image below). I have bought the metal round edge pieces, and for the corners where they join I bought a premade plastic piece. The issue is that the Round edge does not seem to match up perfectly with the plastic edge, this is probably due to the framer making the wall slightly off square and other factors such as the plastic piece inevitably being lower than the metal piece where they "overlap".
> 
> My idea was to just load up the corners with mud and then I will mould it into shape with sand paper. This has been fairly hard so far so I am wondering if anyone else has any tips or solutions for this?


The metal bullnose bead has metal fittings for the corners that match.
The vinyl bullnose bead has vinyl fittings for the corners that match.

Trying to match vinyl to metal in beads won't be a perfect fit...just like trying to butt up or splice different brands of beads.

Plus you need to be sure you got the correct size fittings as it is easy to buy the wrong size....common bullnose bead comes in a 5/8" and 3/4" round which are only slighly different and a person could easily buy the wrong size fitting.

Anyways getting a perfect fit with the *bullnose* bead fittings is tough for even the most experieced drywaller. Yes the framing may come into play where a corner may not be a perfect 90deg. which is actually all too common.

Even with a perfect fit there is still a line around the splice of the bullnose where lightly finessing mud around it and finesse sanding helps solve it.

If you use the fittings at the bottom of vertical corners for baseboard a bead of painters caulk around the splice before texture or paint seems to work nice.

On top of all that... if the sheetrock isn't hung flush to the wood on BOTH sides of the corner...you need to saw the sheetrock corner off at a 45deg all the way down the corner or the bullnose bead will not fit right because of the way the round of the bead cuts off the corner.







shadarap said:


> Additionally, you will see in the picture that I have some frost build up in the corner that is adjacent to the window!!! This can't be good, but what other type of material could I use here besides drywall?!
> 
> Some details: The outer wall is concrete, the inner wall is 2x4, this is why I had to use drywall to bridge the gap as I didn't know of any other material that I could use in a situation like so.
> 
> ...


If you are going to finish up tight to your windows with sheetrock you should leave about a 1/4" gap in the sheetrock from your window to prevent moisture (frost) from wicking into your sheetrock. Cut vinyl "tearaway" L-Bead to butt up tight to your windows before mudding.


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## shadarap (Mar 3, 2011)

Thank you SO much for that very informative answer. I must have bought the wrong size corner fittings. Actually, I obviously bought the wrong ones as they are vinyl whereas the other pieces are metal. I will try to make due by being using some crafting ability and shaping the mud. It has kinda been working so far.

Live and learn! Hopefully this post helps out someone else with a similar problem in the future.

Thanks again MnDrywallRanger, it is very much appreciated!


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## MnDrywallRanger (Mar 12, 2011)

shadarap said:


> Thank you SO much for that very informative answer. I must have bought the wrong size corner fittings. Actually, I obviously bought the wrong ones as they are vinyl whereas the other pieces are metal. I will try to make due by being using some crafting ability and shaping the mud. It has kinda been working so far.
> 
> Live and learn! Hopefully this post helps out someone else with a similar problem in the future.
> 
> Thanks again MnDrywallRanger, it is very much appreciated!


No prob...glad I could be helpful...:thumbsup:

"Crafting" mud around the corner fittings works fine and often is a must when working with bullnose fittings....especially when the inside corners are not a 90 and are obtuse!!!

One adjustment I have made when working with bullnose is to stick with vinyl and use a miter saw for the inside corners instead of the fittings and then put a fine bead of painters caulk around the corner before texture or paint.

Outside corner 3-ways are another story and pretty much have to use the fittings for bullnose...


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Ranger said:


> On top of all that... if the sheetrock isn't hung flush to the wood on BOTH sides of the corner...you need to saw the sheetrock corner off at a 45deg all the way down the corner or the bullnose bead will not fit right because of the way the round of the bead cuts off the corner.


This is what Ranger is talking about. It is a pain in the butt to deal with... so just be sure you don't run either piece past the edge of the wood.
As you can see, when the pink sheet was run too long, (the example on the right), it interfered with the bullnose fitting properly.


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Actually, as Ranger said, if you are comfortable with cutting wood trim, simply two lengths of vinyl can fairly easily be cut with a miter saw to almost perfectly fit a 3-way corner like that.

And I think you'll find *THIS* is the ideal caulk to use. It glues the two pieces together.


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## MnDrywallRanger (Mar 12, 2011)

Willie T said:


> This is what Ranger is talking about. It is a pain in the butt to deal with... so just be sure you don't run either piece past the edge of the wood.
> As you can see, when the pink sheet was run too long, (the example on the right), it interfered with the bullnose fitting properly.


Thanks...that is an excellent pic!!!


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