# Changing Front Catalytic Converters 2003 Pathfinder



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

While I wait for my impact wrench to come in so I can replace the rear stabilizer arms, I will attempt to R&R the front catalytic converters on our 2003 Pathfinder. I watched a couple of videos and that is NOT an easy deal. The mechanics who change these things out flat out earn their pay and then some.

I have a question, does a 9/16 speed wrench fit exactly without any play as a 14mm does? Just curious.

I have a 9/16 speed wrench but not a flex head one that will be needed. I hope I can buy individual wrenches instead of a full set. I also found I really need a 02 sensor socket. The more I do things on our cars now days, the less I see the need to SAE tools, looks like everything is going metric. 

One more question, I have a set of wrenches like in the photo, what are they and how are they used?


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## stick\shift (Mar 23, 2015)

No, 9/16" and 14mm are not the same size. Close but different.

The wrench you've shown is a half-a$$ed attempt to turn an open end wrench into a ratcheting wrench.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

stick\shift said:


> No, 9/16" and 14mm are not the same size. Close but different.
> 
> The wrench you've shown is a half-a$$ed attempt to turn an open end wrench into a ratcheting wrench.


Thanks SS I appreciate that, I didn't think the 14 mm and 9/16 were the exact same size but didn't know for sure.

That other wrench was in a bunch of tools I bought from an estate. I had never seen one like it before now. Thanks again.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

9/16 is a wore out 14mm:vs_cool:


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

They are right about the sizes, close, but no match.

You use those wrenches, by flipping them over to screw, or unscrew a bolt/ nut.

And are useless if trying to tighten the fastener, or the fastener is already tight and want it loosened.

use at your own disgression, remember a busted knuckle ain't worth it.


ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

de-nagorg said:


> They are right about the sizes, close, but no match.
> 
> You use those wrenches, by flipping them over to screw, or unscrew a bolt/ nut.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ed, I have a few battle scars on my hands from slipped wrenches. I am at the point now I expect cuts and bruises when working on a car or truck. The other day I had a motor roll over on my left hand, tore the skin like it was paper. lol


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I bit the bullet and ordered two new front Catalytic converters and two new 02 sensors, along with new brakes. Already have the new trailing arms upper and lower rear, still haven't gotten them on. I had to order new bolts for the trailing arms, 8 bolts $60. 

My new impact wrench came, that sucker is one bad machine. I tried to take one of the 19 mm nuts off and using a new impact socket, it rounded the head off. I made sure the socket was tight against the frame and didn't slip. I have never seen a large nut like that round over unless the socket busted like the other one I tried did.

I heated the next nut and it came off with no trouble at all, just like y'all said it would. I ordered the bolts anyway, to buy them individually was really crazy high. Had these bolts not been 10.9 grade I would have gone to Ace Hardware and got them.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

10.9 are the grade on mine too. Forget trying to cut them with a recip saw. Angle grinder or torch is what you need.

Fastnel wanted $25 fot 2 bolts and nuts.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Bigplanz said:


> 10.9 are the grade on mine too. Forget trying to cut them with a recip saw. Angle grinder or torch is what you need.
> 
> Fastnel wanted $25 fot 2 bolts and nuts.


Good grief, I guess I got a deal on the bolts after all. I ordered mine from this place in the link. They may have yours also.

https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18915700-...-bolt-kit.html

I plan to cut my bolts off with a side grinder.


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## Porsche986S (Dec 10, 2017)

Suggestion: When I remove/replace ANY exhaust system parts during re-assembly I always put a thin coat of copper based anti-seize compound on everything . Most O2 sensors come with it in the kit or already applied from the factory . It makes changing parts down the road so much easier . If you don't have anti-seize you can use Milk of Magnesia , it's a trick I learned from a ex marine helicopter mechanic . But I prefer the copper based anti-seize .


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Porsche986S said:


> Suggestion: When I remove/replace ANY exhaust system parts during re-assembly I always put a thin coat of copper based anti-seize compound on everything . Most O2 sensors come with it in the kit or already applied from the factory . It makes changing parts down the road so much easier . If you don't have anti-seize you can use Milk of Magnesia , it's a trick I learned from a ex marine helicopter mechanic . But I prefer the copper based anti-seize .


Learn something new every day, I never would have guessed to use that for anti-seize. That copper head sealant isn't the same as you are talking about is it, I have some of that.

When one of the fellows on one of the videos showed that the factory had used Loctite on the bolts, that is when the light went off in my head, that is the reason the bolts have to be heated to be removed, the heat softens the Loctite.

This truck is starting to get expensive, the parts, new tires and tools I didn't already have is adding up quickly. I just hope I don't have to replace the rear cats and 02 sensors, they are really proud of them things.

I am looking for some good panhard rod bushings now, if I am going to do it, I am going to do it right.

Thanks Porsche, I appreciate it.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

The copper head sealant is probably some kind of RTV—it's supposed to harden, not to solid, but rubber. The anti seize is kind of a paste—it's not supposed to harden to solid.

The Loctite thread lock comes in different varieties—the blue stuff can be removed with sufficient torque. The red stuff needs heat.

Even though you're buying all these tools and stuff, think of all the labor costs you're saving—$100 per hour in many cases—and the satisfaction of having done something yourself that most people can't.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

huesmann said:


> The copper head sealant is probably some kind of RTV—it's supposed to harden, not to solid, but rubber. The anti seize is kind of a paste—it's not supposed to harden to solid.
> 
> The Loctite thread lock comes in different varieties—the blue stuff can be removed with sufficient torque. The red stuff needs heat.
> 
> Even though you're buying all these tools and stuff, think of all the labor costs you're saving—$100 per hour in many cases—and the satisfaction of having done something yourself that most people can't.


The copper--head gasket sealer is actually used on solid metal head gaskets, but you are right it does dry solid. 

I have the blue loctite, hopefully it will do the job.

Since you put it that way, I am saving some serious bucks doing it all myself. I am getting a little to old to be doing stuff like this but really don't have a choice.

I finally found and bought a 14 mm flex head ratchet wrench. In my searching I did find out something. The wrenches and sockets Home Depot and Lowes sell are the same ones at Harbor Freight. I was totally blown away at the price increase though. I need a 3/4 to 1/2 inch adapter so I can use my 3/4 inch breaker bar with 1/2 drive sockets. Harbor Freight had three different ones for $4.99 for all three. Home Depot had the one adapter (same one) for $26. I couldn't believe it.

I have look at Harbor Freight 5 times to get a set of the flex head wrenches, they don't restock often it appears. They are supposed to have a set for $24.99. I bought just one 14 mm wrench,( same ones) at Home Depot $16+tax. I have to have that wrench to get one of the nuts off one of the converters.

I am still waiting for all my parts to come in so I can get busy on the Pathfinder.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

BigJim said:


> The copper--head gasket sealer is actually used on solid metal head gaskets, but you are right it does dry solid.
> 
> I have the blue loctite, hopefully it will do the job.
> 
> ...


The Pittsburg Pro hand tools are great. Break one? Take it in, no receipt, they replace it. All the hand tools I used in my last few videos are from HF. I haven't broke one yet.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Bigplanz said:


> The Pittsburg Pro hand tools are great. Break one? Take it in, no receipt, they replace it. All the hand tools I used in my last few videos are from HF. I haven't broke one yet.


Looks like China is following Japans foot prints. In the 50s anything made in Japan was a joke, it isn't a joke now. Looks like China is headed that way also. I am impressed with Harbor Freight hand tools now. Use to I wouldn't think of buying their tools. I bought their impact sockets and they are holding up to very hard use. I still won't buy any of their battery or electric tools, I still don't trust them.

If they ever do get a set of the flex head ratchet wrenches in, I will buy them.

I got the rear brakes shoes in today and the 8 high dollar bolts. The front brake pads, catalytic converters and 02 sensors are supposed to be here tomorrow. I love Rockauto, they are reasonable on price and fast on delivery.

I found a vacuum hose with two cracks in it a little while ago, I fixed that. I wonder if that had any bearing on the codes popping up.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

BigJim said:


> Looks like China is following Japans foot prints. In the 50s anything made in Japan was a joke, it isn't a joke now. Looks like China is headed that way also. I am impressed with Harbor Freight hand tools now. Use to I wouldn't think of buying their tools. I bought their impact sockets and they are holding up to very hard use. I still won't buy any of their battery or electric tools, I still don't trust them.
> 
> If they ever do get a set of the flex head ratchet wrenches in, I will buy them.
> 
> ...


I have the metric flex head ratchets. They work fine. I passed on the 90 dollar cordless 20V HF 1/4 inch impact driver. Got the brushless dewalt version for $10 more at home depot. Easy decision.


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## r0ckstarr (Jan 8, 2013)

I have just about every wrench (metric/standard) and socket set (1/4"-3/8") that HF offers, and have no complaints. I also have a 1/2" impact socket set and love it. I've had Mac and SKTools before. SK were the nicest, but when it comes to price, HF wins.

I also recommend the composite ratchet they sell. I've beat things with the side of mine, dropped it, used it and abused it, and it hasn't broken yet. I'd be afraid to put a cheater pipe on it, but anything less and it works great.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-heavy-duty-composite-ratchet-66313.html


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I am getting more confidence in Harbor Freight as time goes by. I really enjoy getting tools that will hold up at a great price. The impact sockets I have used to the extreme, they held up perfectly so in my book that makes them a winner.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I got started taking the catalytic converters off today. I got the exhaust with the muffler and rear cats loose and one rear cat off. Taking the heat shield off, all the 10 mm bolts came out except for one bolt and it was in the hardest place of all to get too. It is about 9 inches up in there and on the back side of the front converter which is about an inch from the firewall.

The bolt head rounded as I was using a 10 mm gear wrench that is all thet would fit in it. A regular 10 mm might have worked but no way to see the bolt to remove that way. I have tried to rip the heat shield off with no luck, that sucker is double thickness. The only thing I can think of is to make a long chisel and cut it off. I have an old star drill that I can sharpen and use, that is about all I can think of. Maybe make a wedge that will fit each side of the bolt from under the shield. Any suggestions to get it off? 

Question, I can see the back side of the front converter, it is snow white on the back side, is it usually dirty looking if bad? Also two of the 02 sensors were only finger tight, aren't they supposed to be tighter than that?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

If the O2 sensors were loose, they could easily be leaking, which will cause major code malfunctions in the "brain", and cause it to be on alert mode constantly. 

As for removing the bolt, you know all the tricks already, nutsplitter, grind it off, vise-grips, one of those sockets with all the wires inside it, hammer and chisel, hacksaw.

Find the right one and have at it.

A come-along, fastened to the rear bumper, and the shield, tighten the come a long , rips it off, then you fix the hole, and put it back on.


ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

de-nagorg said:


> If the O2 sensors were loose, they could easily be leaking, which will cause major code malfunctions in the "brain", and cause it to be on alert mode constantly.
> 
> As for removing the bolt, you know all the tricks already, nutsplitter, grind it off, vise-grips, one of those sockets with all the wires inside it, hammer and chisel, hacksaw.
> 
> ...


Now there is a winner, heck I will skip the come-along and go with a logging chain hooked to our 4X4 and jerk that sucker out of there. lol

I did find my old star drill tonight and reshaped it into a long sharp chisel, hope it goes better tomorrow.

I am not going to be happy if the cats are good and the blame loose 02 sensors were the problem all along.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Can you fit a bolt extractor in there?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

huesmann said:


> Can you fit a bolt extractor in there?


There isn't enough room to fit a 1/4 drive ratchet and 10 mm socket in there. I do appreciate the advice though. There is one thing that might work, I will see today. I have a palm nailer and with the reshaped star drill it may cut the shield or the small bolt off. I just hope I can reshape the heat shield to put back on or find one at a junk yard. 

I am still stumped why who ever installed the 02 sensors just finger tightened both of them. I can see one, but both I don't understand. 

While under the truck, I noticed there is a small oil leak from the engine and one from the trans. Then I need to check the power valve screws to make sure they don't come out and get sucked into the engine. This is one major fault of most Nissans. Why they didn't loctite the screws is beyond me. It don't seem to end.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

They prolly screwed them in and got distracted, phone, someone wanting something. Or they were idiots. Tighten them as tight as a spark plug with anti-seize. Loose O2's will cause a exhaust leak and screw up the O2 readings.:vs_cool:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Brainbucket said:


> They prolly screwed them in and got distracted, phone, someone wanting something. Or they were idiots. Tighten them as tight as a spark plug with anti-seize. Loose O2's will cause a exhaust leak and screw up the O2 readings.:vs_cool:


Thanks BB, I appreciate that. I figured they were not supposed to be that loose. I can see the back side of the converters and they are white as snow, I hope to get them off today to see if they are messed up.

The new converters I bought look like they have been used, is that normal for new ones?

I can tell you one thing for sure, what ever you charge to change out these converters, it isn't enough. I am an old 60s mechanic when it was fun, these cars and trucks today are unreal. You have to be a computer guru and a contortionist with all kind of specialty tools, not to even mention the need for super patience.


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I would tighten up the O2s. Reinstall the exhaust without the new ones and drive it and see if the light comes back on. Introducing air into the exhaust through the O2s will cause bad readings. What worries me is the white. Could be thermonuclear melt down. If ya can see in there, should be honey comb and not broken up and/or stopped up. And yeah, the new ones look kinda grayish.:vs_cool:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Brainbucket said:


> I would tighten up the O2s. Reinstall the exhaust without the new ones and drive it and see if the light comes back on. Introducing air into the exhaust through the O2s will cause bad readings. What worries me is the white. Could be thermonuclear melt down. If ya can see in there, should be honey comb and not broken up and/or stopped up. And yeah, the new ones look kinda grayish.:vs_cool:


I did get the heat shield off today and the cat on the passenger side. The cat is stating to break up inside so looks like it was bad after all. All I can say again is, you fellows who are pros making your living turning wrenches now days have my absolute respect. It is a different world between now and back when I was a mechanic in the 60s, it is unreal.

I didn't get any bolts with the new cats and the old studs will not come out of the rear of the cats. 

The cat on the drivers side isn't as white as the one on the passenger side. 

I hope to have the drivers side off and both of them back on tomorrow. Fooling with that heat shield really took a lot of time. Check out the mangled heat shield. lol


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yeah: Boy, you chewed that up. :thumbsup: :hammer:





Are you going to try to patch that one, or shop for a decent used one.

Might find a good one at e-bay, I have bought odd one of a kind parts there, some were dealer NOS things, that they had on a shelf for years, and were glad to sell it.




ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

de-nagorg said:


> Yeah: Boy, you chewed that up. :thumbsup: :hammer:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ed if shove comes to push I will straighten that one out and use a wrap heat shield under it. I am right now trying to find a used one. I did find a universal one and may have to go that route. I will let you know what I come up with.


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

If you can't suitably rehab that heat shield, DEI has a number of products that may suit in lieu of it.

http://designengineering.com/products/heat-control/


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

I just cut them off with a sawsall and weld the new ones in place. But I know your in your driveway and I'm a shop. I worked on the ground for 3 years at my house before I got a shop so I know your peril. :vs_cool:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Thanks for the link huesmann, I appreciate that a lot. I thought sure one of the parts places around here would have some type of heat wrap. I did how ever find a complete set of used heat shields for both sides on ebay, I am just not sure I want to wait that long for them to be shipped. Our Toyota 4X4 doesn't have AC and it is really hard for my wife to breath in the heat. So I need to get this one back up and running soon.

BB, I sold my cutting torches and welding rig a few years back, I didn't think I would ever need them again, that was a mistake. The other three shields came off without any problems, just this one with the bolt in a really really hard to get to place that gave me fits.

Laying on the ground (gravel) for the past week or so has really done a number on my back, I can hardly walk today, let alone crawling back under the truck, so I am just sitting around feeling like I really have got to get back out there and finish.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I was just thinking about what BB said about cutting the cat off and welding another one in place. This converter you can't cut it off and weld another one in place, see the photo of the ones I have. It would sure be nice if I could to that though. :smile:


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I just couldn't stand doing nothing today so I gave a try to straightening out the mess I made of the heat shield. Surprisingly it went pretty good. I beat it fairly close enough that I could bolt it back on the old converter, I then continued to shape it and form it back as close as I could to normal. It fits pretty good now with just a couple of cracks that are open maybe 1/16 inch or so. 

I bought some high heat wrap that is made to wrap the converter. I plan to wrap the converter at the cracks to keep any heat that may be harmful from escaping. Then install the beat up shield over that.

I do have a question, I have searched all over the place even the manufactures manual and can not find the torque specs for the bolts in the exhaust system, especially the converter to manifold. But do need pipe to converters torque specs as I have all that apart and will need to go back together.

The front converters I bought didn't have any studs to bolt the pipe back to the converters. I just bought regular 10mm bolts and hope that is correct. I couldn't get the studs out of the old converter.

This is a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE 3.5L RWD.

The more I look at these converters the more I am sure they have been used. The stuff looks yellowed and the back side looks like it is black from exhaust. Man I sure hope these aren't bad, one time around with these is more than enough for me. I will get some photos of them just in case they are messed up.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Did you spy a torque spec for the exhaust manifold to head.

I would shoot for near that, if I could find it.

Should be "good enough for gov't work".

I know that you said that you sold your Torch set, those cracks could be sealed with a mild steel rod, and torch, then wrapped with the wrapping. 



ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I remember back in the 60s using a coat hanger to weld some things using a torch, it worked back then, I wish I had a torch now. I plan to put the wrap under the heat shield and hope for the best.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Man, I think I am going to be sick. I looked up the torque specs for this truck and it is Nm. I don't have a clue how to use this system. Why can't something be simple today.


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## carmusic (Oct 11, 2011)

https://www.metric-conversions.org/energy-and-power/newton-meters-to-foot-pounds.htm


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

carmusic said:


> https://www.metric-conversions.org/energy-and-power/newton-meters-to-foot-pounds.htm


That is just too cool, thanks a ton, I really do appreciate this link, I saved it.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I just learned something really cool today, check out this video, stick with it all the way through and it will become really clear. The video just taught this old dog a new trick. I never understood why in the world throw away perfect looking bolts and replace them with new ones. Now I know, this video explains why.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

My stars, I am making a second career of changing out these catalytic converters. If anything can go wrong, it has. I finally got the one on the passengers side on and the heat shield I mangled fit perfect, the bottom one doesn't fit, the screw holes are way off. I have one screw in and I will jury rig them by using two large hose clamps to pull them tight. Man I hate doing stuff like that.

Here I have been wanting to downsize my shop by selling a lot of my wood working tools and I am buying all kids of mechanic tools just to get this truck back on the road. 

I thought I would never get the upstream 02 sensor off then back on, that thing is in a place that is next to impossible to get to. 

I am too old to be crawling around under a truck. I also noticed the A frame bushings need replacing, at least that will be easy. Now if I can just get the drivers side cat off and the new one on, this part will be history, putting the rest of the exhaust system back on will be a breeze.... I hope. LOL


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## huesmann (Aug 18, 2011)

Got a creeper?


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

huesmann said:


> Got a creeper?


Don't I wish. Our driveway is gravel. I have one of those plastic things used on carpet that is under a computer chair to lay on, beats laying on rocks. lol

If these converters don't work, I am not going to be happy. I still think they were used and returned, although the people where I bought them assured me they only sold new parts. There is black soot in the tail end of the converters like on a tail pipe, but everything else looks new except the intake side is yellowed.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I got the passenger side converter and 02 sensor, plus the other down stream cat and 02 sensor hooked up.

I did finally get the drivers side cat and 02 sensor off. Part of the 02 sensor had come loose and was embedded in the cat. The cat on that side was way worse than the passenger side. 

I got the new cat and 02 sensor installed. Then for the next three and a half hours I did everything I could think of to get the heat shields back on. I finally gave up and went in and had supper.

15 minutes after I got in the house it dawned on me how to get that one dad blame heat shield back on. It was impossible to see anything as it was within an inch of the frame, all I could do is chance putting the screw in the shield hole and try to accidentally hit the hole were the screw goes. Did not happen.

All I need to do Monday is cut the heads off three screws that will fit in the screw holes on the converter, then put the shield on until it lines up on the cut off screws. When the shield goes on the cut off screws, then I can remove one cut off screw at a time and install the screws and there ya have it. I wish I had thought about that way sooner, the truck would be done now.

How do you pros put that impossible heat shield back on? The one that I can see will be a snap to put on, but the one I can't see is one really tough cookie.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Well I got the other catalytic converter on and it is the wrong one, unless I installed it wrong. In the photo below see the little protruded V shaped deal, it is supposed to align with the other little protruded V shaped deal on the manifold, right. If it is then I installed it right and they sent me the wrong converter. When I put the rear converter straight like it is supposed to be you can see how much gap is at the flange. I am not sure rotating it would do any good, but I may try.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I too think that the "detent", is an alignment mark, and it looks correct.

Will tightening the nuts on the other end, pull that gap closed?

Exhaust systems are a little flexible, and get bumped out of align by anything ran over in the road, a speed hump hit too fast, even falling off a jack, and hitting a block for supporting the vehicle. 

Maybe the previous owner had a fantasy of driving the General Lee. 

Try gently to pull that together better, and see what you can get.

A few turns on each nut, in consecutive order.

Over and over, and over, again.


ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Ed I feel so stupid, I watched a video and the fellow said the tips were for aligning but I found out that was totally wrong, I turned the converter 180 degrees and it fit like a glove and the heat shields went on so easy it was unreal. The truck is back on the road again. I cleared the codes and will drive about 100 miles to let the ECM to go through all the cycles before we can get an inspection and get our tags.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Great.

Was that triangle flange loose and could revolve around the end of the CAT? 

If it was a solidly affixed flange, 180* , would have made for terrible misalignment of the bolts. 

Just proves the Axiom " Do not believe everything that you see on the WEB." 


ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

de-nagorg said:


> Great.
> 
> Was that triangle flange loose and could revolve around the end of the CAT?
> 
> ...


Ed I thought it would fit worse but it didn't. The flange was fixed. I was so tired last night I couldn't think straight anyway but I went back out there and looked at the old cat and saw where the tip on the manifold did not align with the one on the cat so I went with it and that is why I rotated it 180 degrees. Hmmm maybe it wasn't 180 degrees, but it was two bolt holes so that wasn't 180 degrees, 180 degrees would have been three bolt holes as there were 6 bolts on it.

Oh well, it is back on now and runs like a top. I am just holding my breath that it don't spit a code. My next move is to replace the front and rear brakes have the drums and rotors turned. After that only two more things and I will call it good unless there is a surprise. I need to check out the front end really good and fix all that is wrong there, then the oil leaks. I really need to do all this now because in a couple years, if I live that long, I won't be able to do any work on the car. 

I forgot one thing I have to do on the truck, check the screws in the power valve to see if any are loose. Nissan is really really bad for those screws to come loose and drop into the engine, been there and done that on our grandson's car, had to replace the engine. Hmmm, I guess I need to check the timing belt also. Man it never ends.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I drove the truck until all cycles were reset, it went right on through inspection no problems. If it will ever stop raining, I will replace the brakes and rotors and shoes. I still haven't checked the power valve screws to see if they are loose. I need to replace the front struts and rear shocks, it bottoms out when hitting a good bump. I think I am making another career out of this truck. lol


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Jim: It's not a career, it's a past time.

And as long as you have projects in the works, you don't have time to die.

At least that's my theory why I have not died from all my injuries and maladies.

ED


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

Ain't that the truth. lol


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