# Tub to floor transition



## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

Hi guys, looking for any suggestions for this problem...

Where my tub meets my tile floor the tub edge is unsupported. The tub itself is set in foam but the outside edge does not rest directly on the floor since I installed the tile after the tub was in. There is barely a gap between the floor and tub, maybe 1/32" to 1/16" at the most. Anyways, the tub material is flexible so if you put any pressure on it, it bows in. Ideally I would like to get something behind this tub edge so it is firm but there is no access to the underside of the tub other than drilling holes in the floor from the basement. I thought about spray foam but if I overdo it's going to bow the side of the tub out permanently.

So I have 2 questions:

1. How would you recommend I handle the situation of the unsupported tub edge?

2. What could I use as a transition between the tub edge and the flooring - such as a molding? I would imagine something that could adhere to both the tub and tile might kill 2 birds with one stone.

Thanks for your help.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Can you post a photo?


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

You could put a row of trim tiles on the floor tiles, and caulk the joint between the tub and the trim tiles. Wasn't the tub set on the subfloor, and the floor tiles laid up to that edge, so the tub edge would be below the surface of the floor tiles?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

The tub edge was originally set on the old subfloor which I removed when I decided to do tile. The tile brought the floor just about back to its original thickness so the tub edge is just above the tile by no more than 1/16" at its highest point.

I was thinking about trim tiles but I didn't know how well it would work out. How do you get them to adhere to the glazed top of the floor tiles and is caulk going to be strong enough the stabilize the edge of the tub if it gets inadvertently kicked? I'm afraid that if there is any movement in the tub the trim tile joints will crack.

Thanks.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Richo said:


> The tub edge was originally set on the old subfloor which I removed when I decided to do tile.
> Thanks.


Is the tub resting on any subfloor?:confused1: 

Which way do the floor joists run?

Do they run parrallel to the tub front or perpendicular to the front of the tub?

What was the subfloor material that you removed? Planks or plywood?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

> Is the tub resting on any subfloor?:confused1:


The tub basin is set in foam (Great Stuff) supported by a plywood subfloor. Only the outside edge of the tub is unsupported.



> Which way do the floor joists run?


The floor joists run parallel to the tub.



> What was the subfloor material that you removed? Planks or plywood?


The material I removed was a layer of particle board on top of the plywood which was used as an underlayment for vinyl flooring and it extended just about an inch under the edge of the tub. The original bathroom subfloor (plywood) is still fully intact beneath the tub, tile and tile backer.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Is there an access panel where the shower faucet is?


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

No access panel to the faucet. There is a triangular cutout in the plywood subfloor where the drain comes into the basement but doesn't seem like enough room to do much with.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

I found this thread:

http://www.diychatroom.com/showthread.php?t=7484

Something like that would work provided I could securely adhere it to both the tub and tile, and that I could find it in a store. Any thoughts on that idea?


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## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

For future reference. The tub is typically installed on the sub floor, the you tile up to it. That way the small gap between the tile and the tub is simply filled with grout and you're good to go.

In this case I'd look into trim tiles.


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Marlin said:


> For future reference. The tub is typically installed on the sub floor, the you tile up to it. That way the small gap between the tile and the tub is simply filled with grout and you're good to go.


Isn't that gap typically filled with CAULK not grout? I'd worry that the grout would crack because the tub is possibly going to move when filled and stood in.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

You could use 1/4 round. Drill a pilot hole before you nail into the 1/4 round. Only place a nail where the grout line is.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

> For future reference. The tub is typically installed on the sub floor, the you tile up to it.


Actually, a plumber installed the tub/shower surround while the vinyl floor/underlayment was still intact. Putting in a tile floor was an afterthought so when I ripped out the underlayment the tub edge was above the remaining subfloor by about 5/8".

What was originally supposed to be a tub install turned into a complete DIY bathroom remodel.



> You could use 1/4 round. Drill a pilot hole before you nail into the 1/4 round. Only place a nail where the grout line is.


I wouldn't want to use wood 1/4 round for obvious reasons. Wouldn't a decent adhesive caulk work for adhering some kind of trim to both the tub and tile?


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## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

NateHanson said:


> Isn't that gap typically filled with CAULK not grout? I'd worry that the grout would crack because the tub is possibly going to move when filled and stood in.


If the tub is properly installed it will not crack. Some people may use caulk but it isn't going to look right and isn't the correct way to do it.


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Ok. I assumed that since you have to caulk around the top of the tub (between wall tile and tub lip) that you also had to caulk between floor tile and tub. 

I guess if the tub moves though, the floor should move with it, since both are on the subfloor.


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## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

NateHanson said:


> Ok. I assumed that since you have to caulk around the top of the tub (between wall tile and tub lip) that you also had to caulk between floor tile and tub.
> 
> I guess if the tub moves though, the floor should move with it, since both are on the subfloor.


If you grouted that the slightest movement of the tub, setteling of the house, or even a vibration could cause a crack. Grout is also not a glue. If you remove a tile with grout on it you will notice the grout is easially removed, so the tub can move without moving the grout resultingly not causing any cracks. If you do that between the tub and the tile even though the grout may not crack, it will no longer be a water tight seal.


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## Richo (Dec 6, 2007)

> I assumed that since you have to caulk around the top of the tub (between wall tile and tub lip) that you also had to caulk between floor tile and tub.


It's actually a 4 piece tub/shower surround with drywall around it. The only tile is the floor. I caulked around the sides and top when the drywall/painting job was complete but I started the tile job after that so nothing has been done yet with the tub to floor transition. My biggest problem is that the tub edge, which is a plastic material, flexes easily with applied pressure because it is not tight to the floor and there is nothing directly behind it...see photo...










Is there a caulk with a strong adhesive bond that could adhere some type of trim to both the tile and the tub keeping the tub edge stable?


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## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Marlin said:


> If you grouted that the slightest movement of the tub, setteling of the house, or even a vibration could cause a crack. Grout is also not a glue. If you remove a tile with grout on it you will notice the grout is easially removed, so the tub can move without moving the grout resultingly not causing any cracks. If you do that between the tub and the tile even though the grout may not crack, it will no longer be a water tight seal.


Yeah, I understand why you have to use Caulk between the tub and tile. 

So why is that not the case with the floor? Is the tub more stable with respect to the floor tile?


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