# Is this caulking job acceptable?



## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I couldn't tell much from the pic but how the caulk looks now is pretty much how it will look later. Caulking on smooth surfaces is generally smoothed out but caulk applied next to brick isn't.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Blowing the picture up by clicking on it, It looks like a pretty gloppy job. Why so much caulk? Did the window not fit between the siding well? That's masonite siding, so you won't find replacement.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Functionally it appears to be sound, (which is most important in my book).
Cosmetically, maybe a little heavy. Looks like they used a black silicone, likely unpaintable. Also likely would have a made a huge mess trying to tool it off.
They could have taped it off, but the tape may have pulled the masonite siding too.

How does it look from the street?


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## DerfIV (Sep 12, 2019)

misuszatek said:


> I will paint the siding in iron ore colour so ultimately might be not as noticeable but should I ask contractors to correct it or don't bother?


If it is only that one window and it doesn't show any more than it does in the photo I wouldn't bother asking the contractor to redo it. That said, it's a pretty sloppy job of caulking and whoever did it should be mightily embarrassed.

If it is lots of windows and they all are that badly caulked then yes I'd insist on it being redone, and neatly this time.

And I'd never call that contractor back again.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

Looks pretty bad I agree, but once it's painted you'll probably forget about it. Asking your guy to come back might be a little like sending your food back in a restaurant. Not always the wisest thing to do.


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## misuszatek (Aug 22, 2018)

More photos including bottom floor windows. If that matters - the product they used was MULCO Supra Expert


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

The only rule of thumb I use is to seal with the smallest opening possible on the tube. This is gobbed on and I don't think it was necessary to have it that thick. I would have used OSI Quad Max, too. Others may disagree.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Have you talked to the installers yet?


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## dispatchone (Mar 12, 2019)

At least they used the right product on it, that is a sealant.


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## misuszatek (Aug 22, 2018)

mark sr said:


> Have you talked to the installers yet?


I decided to not to. As others advised... it is not the best job but removing it and recaulking might not end up much better to justify all this extra work. 

But...I told them not to caulk windows at the front as new siding and brick is coming up anyway. Other trade will caulk those with my instructions to smooth the bead properly. Windows at the back are not as much problem I guess as caulk smoothen out a little over the few days and might be even less visible when back siding is painted dark. 

We will see after paint and all trims are on.


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## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

No, it is not acceptable. A professional caulker would never leave a bead "untooled".


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

> No, it is not acceptable. A professional caulker would never leave a bead "untooled".



I would beg to disagree. Against brick and irregular surfaces, a heavy adhesion caulking like OSI Quad does not take well to tooling. Now, that bead is not the prettiest and I don't know the purpose of the little tail at the bottom, but tooling quad there would make more of a mess. 




chandler48 said:


> The only rule of thumb I use is to seal with the smallest opening possible on the tube. This is gobbed on and I don't think it was necessary to have it that thick. I would have used OSI Quad Max, too. Others may disagree.



My guys prefer the Quad because its thicker, but Quad Max is good stuff too. Less stink to it as well.


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## Walterbrant (Oct 31, 2019)

It should be smoothed out by pressing it in with a finger, not for better looks but so it sticks to the wall better. This will cause it to smear slightly onto the siding but you can paint it with the siding. 

Bricks is a different story. If it gets smeared onto bricks you will not get it off. This is explained a little bit better in DIY Wall Insulation


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

> pressing it in with a finger,


Not with OSI Quad. It is petroleum based and will get messy really quick. Pressure from the caulk gun should be all that is necessary for a good seal.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

chandler48 said:


> Not with OSI Quad. It is petroleum based and will get messy really quick. Pressure from the caulk gun should be all that is necessary for a good seal.



+1


Unless you have Goof Off or another type solvent on your finger (even spit doesn't work well), the caulk will stick to your finger and bunch up. 

A professional caulking application doesn't usually require tooling because of the pressure that @chandler48 mentions.


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## lug-nuts (Jun 17, 2019)

Actually a professional caulker that's sny good and takes pride in his work would tool it. I would, and have, many times against brick. It's the only sure way to get it sealed regardless of what you think about "pressure" from the gun. SMDH.


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## Windows on Wash (Aug 30, 2011)

Do you use Quad? I would love to see some videos of tool Quad if you have some techniques you recommend.


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

Guess, I'm no good, then. Better go back to school.


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## Marson (Jan 26, 2018)

If that's Quad, it says right on the tube, "tooling not recommended"


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## chandler48 (Jun 5, 2017)

That's true, but @lug-nuts says it is wrong, so you need to make a total mess of things.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

IMO it all depends on the application, I've lightly tooled quad when it was prudent to do so. I like to use an old natural bristle brush wet with thinner to lightly brush over the caulk when I need it to look a little nicer. Tooling the caulk is no substitute for applying it neatly out of the gun!


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