# Stair Stringer Attachment



## Cheetah (Aug 25, 2011)

Hey wussup

I just wanted to know what you guys think about this stringer connection.

Humbly, I think it’s better than hammering in nails from all angles (splitting the wood while doing so).

Is this less strong, as strong, or stronger than the traditional way?

I’ve attached some pictures. Please let me know what you think.

Thanx

Cheetah


----------



## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

You have now reduced that stringer to the thickness of what's left between the notch for the steps and the notch for your hanger, about 4" it looks like. Pressure block between stringers and don't cut outside stringers, ledger steps inside.


----------



## Ninjaframer (Aug 25, 2011)

.....


----------



## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

Sorry to say but you did post pictures, the entire deck looks to be seriously deficient as are the steps.

I know this is a DIY site but it would have been better to have posted asking questions about how to build this before you started.

It looks like the treads are too high, IMHO it is better to use two boards for the treads instead of just one big 2x12.
You screwed into the end grain up top and there is way more than 4" opening for the risers.

There is no landing at the base of the stairs, you used screws instead of nails for the hangers, you should have a center stringer, Ninja's suggestion of full stringers is dead-on.

There is no railing for the stairs and the rail for the deck is awful (looking & dangerous).

I don't mean to be a pr** but I do play one on TV.
Andy.


----------



## Hatsee (Oct 9, 2010)

For a first attempt it's good, it's not right but it's better than a lot would manage.

At least get a railing up, most of the other flaws can be fixed with some minor work as well.


----------



## jklingel (Dec 21, 2008)

Definitely add a railing and I hope you will soon replace the deck; it IS nasty looking. You can run 2x4's or 2x6's along the bottom of the stringers to beef them up, too, if you wish to (parallel to and flush with the bottom of the stringers). That appears to be a long set of steps for what meat is left in the wood. You did some pretty accurate cutting there.


----------



## J.S.Const. (Aug 25, 2011)

U should always nail hangers becuase the diameter of a nail is bigger then a screw! good job using nails instead.


----------



## J.S.Const. (Aug 25, 2011)

Haha nvmnd u did screw it! should have have used nails for sure!


----------



## ovahimba (Dec 25, 2007)

Simpson makes screws for hangers now.
http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/screws-loadrated.asp
I can see the need in cases where you also require pull out protection.


----------



## Marbledust (Jun 26, 2010)

you will need to incorporate a full lenght 4x4 post to the ground(mid-span)when you run your handrail.

did you use PT on the landing pad?


----------



## Cheetah (Aug 25, 2011)

Thank you all for your input.

Marbledust: I will be placing a 4x4 midway as a post and handrail.

All the wood is pressure treated.


----------



## Cheetah (Aug 25, 2011)

J.S.Const. said:


> U should always nail hangers becuase the diameter of a nail is bigger then a screw! good job using nails instead.


 
The screws that I used are pretty thick. Maybe not as thick as nails but very close.

How do you prevent wood from splitting when using nails ?

I think split wood is a bigger problem.


----------



## J.S.Const. (Aug 25, 2011)

U need to know how to nail i guess, I use 3" galvanized nails and havent split a stringer yet. "knock on wood".


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

It looks like you have one 2 stringers....one on each end....'typical' stringers are 12"OC


----------



## Joe Carola (Apr 14, 2006)

Cheetah said:


> Hey wussup
> 
> I just wanted to know what you guys think about this stringer connection.
> 
> ...


What's the rise and run?


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

The “traditional way” is no longer, not even pressure blocks, if under the new (2006) Deck Code. This covers everything mentioned already (Fig. 27, 28, 7-3/4"max. rise, 10" min. run) and a few more. Bolt handrail/guard posts, ending ones on stairs into ground, special spans for notched stringers (even between supports), and etc. http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

The upper window appears to be a safety problem, as well: http://www.deckmagazine.com/article/54.html

Gary


----------

