# Wall Oven



## dcd22 (Jul 12, 2007)

Just got it yesturday, and it looks to be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch short. Meaning, that when I put it in the whole, the trim ring on the front does not meet the cabinet.

What are my options here to get this flush with the cabinet's? Can I remove the sheetrock from behind it to gain the space?


----------



## NateHanson (Apr 15, 2007)

Do you mean that the oven is 1/4" too long?


----------



## dcd22 (Jul 12, 2007)

too deep.


----------



## dcd22 (Jul 12, 2007)

any thought's here? Is it OK to remove some of the sheetrock behind this to get some space back?


----------



## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Sure, as long as it isn't a wall rated for fire wall protection. If it is an insulated wall just put in a thinner drywall like 1/4 inch when your done getting the other out.

Stubbie


----------



## dcd22 (Jul 12, 2007)

it is an interior wall, no insulation, load bearing.


----------



## dcd22 (Jul 12, 2007)

well, that was easy. Pulled the unit out expecting to hack away at the rock. Come to find that the whip fell behind the over part and was in the way. Supported that up, slid it back in and all is well. Work's like a charm!


----------



## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

dcd22 said:


> Just got it yesturday, and it looks to be about 1/4 to 3/8 inch short. Meaning, that when I put it in the whole, the trim ring on the front does not meet the cabinet.
> 
> What are my options here to get this flush with the cabinet's? Can I remove the sheetrock from behind it to gain the space?


Unfortunately this is now a common problem due to appliance manufacturers getting caught up in the "bigger SUV syndrome" . 

Usually just removing the wood back of the oven cabinet will give the little extra you need, but I have had to also remove the sheetrock in some instances. Just be sure there is no paper on insulation behind the oven.

Check the unit dimensions in the installation manuel before cutting to verify that the cabinet is indeed to shallow, and that the unit is not just getting hung up on something keeping it from sliding in fully. Some models are notorious for having screw heads that protrude and get snagged. Another common problem is if the floor of the oven cab is a little lower than the face of the cabinet, the bottom trim will snag on it. The third most common potential is that the electrical supply has fallen behind the unit, and is blocking it from sliding in fully.


----------



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

That's odd it doesn't fit. Is the cabinet a standard 24" deep oven cabinet? What was the oven depth requirement? It doesn't make sense,the SUV mentality arguement. Built in appliances need to fit in premade cabinets. Appliance manufacturers can't just make them larger or they won't fit in any cabinets.
I've done kitchens with double Kitchen Aid ovens, dbl Jennair ovens, Ge,Kenmore, etc... and they fit.
Like I said, odd it doesn't fit.
Ron


----------



## dcd22 (Jul 12, 2007)

It fit, if you look at my last post it was because the whip fell behind the unit when I was pushing it in. 

When we pulled the unit out, I noticed this. We lifted the whip up to go behind the microwave and all is fine. Been using it for about 2 weeks now.


----------



## tracyquilts (Oct 2, 2015)

*No, they don't always fit*

I just purchased a GE Profile 30 inch double wall oven to replace my 19 year old GE Profile 30 inch double wall oven. The cabinet is not deep enough for the new ovens!!

We will be removing the cabinet backing board and MIGHT be taking off some drywall. UGH.

Why can't the new ones just fit into a standard cabinet? The depth from the face of the cabinet to the inside of the backboard is NOT 24 inches.....it is 23.5 inches.


----------

