# Shower Diverter Valve replacement



## twildey (Dec 17, 2008)

Hi,

I have the old 3 handle shower and my shower diverter valve started leaking and I am in the process of trying to replace it. The house is about 90 years old and I assume it is the original hardware, but in good shape. I got the handle off, cover off and bonnet nut off, but cannot figure out how to get the valve stem out. There are no visable screws or nuts holding it in place. I have tried to turn it counterclock wise, but it will not budge. Any suggestions??? I am thinking it should just pop out when the bonnet nut is removed, but I guess not. I will try and post a picture later today. Thanks!


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## TazinCR (Jun 23, 2008)

The picture will help. Someone will know how to repair it.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Many/most of the thread into the valve body. My guess is that you'd be doing the right thing by cranking on it counterclockwise. Yes, the picture might shed some light on this for you.


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## twildey (Dec 17, 2008)

Here are the photos. Hope this helps.


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## plumcass (Sep 27, 2008)

the opening around the stem has either a packing nut that could be inside the chrome flange you removed or it may be a brass running thread. but it looks as though there is another larger hex nut that has to come out. do not try to turn this second nut without screwing the packing nut back in first or it will squash. you may need a large socket wrench 1-1/4 or so to remove the larger nut. there is usually a fiber washer that makes the joint water tight between the large nut and the body. these valves usually have removable seats inside that might need changing. Parts are also difficult to come by. Crest Goods in NY used to have a lot of these items. I do not know if they still do.
An option is to replace the valve with a newer style single lever valve with a repair flange to cover the holes in the tile. Symmons makes one.


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## twildey (Dec 17, 2008)

Ok, so I worked on this thing for a hour last night and was not able to get anything to budge. The large outer nut (in picture below) had what looked like tile adhesive around the nut where it met the body of the other pipe. I don't think it is tile adhesive b/c the tile were not set with mastic or tile adhesive, just mortar. I removed all of that and cranked away...nothing moved. Worked again on trying to get the stem valve out...nothing. Inside the assembly there is what looks to be a washed coming out of what Plumcass thinks is a packing nut. Could this be holding it in place or could it be a solid assembly with the larger nut holding everything in place. The other problem when trying to remove the large outer nut is I cannot get a good grip on it. There is some king of set screw on the top, not sure of it's function, and the other handles and spout are in the way. Nothing is easy in this old house. Any other ideas??? Here are a few more pictures. Let me know what you think. I hate to have to call a plumber to remove a nut.


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

What is on the other side of the wall? If you can gain access, I would seriously consider replacing the valve like Plumcass suggested, but you could still go with a 3 handle set so that you do not have to mess with the tile. That valve looks like it has seen better days...


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## twildey (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks Wrangler. I do have an access panel in a closet. So should I turn off the water, cut the pipes to the diverter, remove diverter, solder in new valve....while I am at it should I replace the 2 handles as well???


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## wrangler (Oct 9, 2008)

the new valve will come with new handles, shower head and tub spout. The only slightly complicated part would be to get the tub spout plumbing correct to fit through the existing hole, but with exact measuring and cutting you should have no problem if you are comfortable with soldering. 
The valve will look like this.


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## twildey (Dec 17, 2008)

Thanks Wrangler!!!


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## plumcass (Sep 27, 2008)

I didn't recomend a 3 valve diverter because mass code requires an anti scald valve. Unless you run a seperate hw line with a tempering valve and thermometers for controlling to a max temp 110 degrees.


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