# Uponor (Wirsbo) Propex to Fixtures



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Anyone else confused?
Any Pex adapter I've used for a sink or toilet is 1/2 Pex and 1/2 pipe so a 1/2 compression or sweat stop can be used.
Only place a 3/8 flex is used is from the stop to the sink or toilet, never on a shower!


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

The pex tubing is called Aquapex it's not the standard run of the mill pex local stores stock (around here at least).

This means I can only use Uponor fittings. The only option I see is these things here http://www.supplyhouse.com/Wirsbo-U...-Brass-Full-Port-Angle-Stop-Valve-for-1-2-PEX or here
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Wirsbo-U...ass-Full-Port-Straight-Stop-Valve-for-1-2-PEX

As you can see, they take my 1/2" Pex Tubing and make it 3/8" which is what I thought was standard for sinks and toilets?

I'm not sure now what the best option is. The shower will be a different story. I don't see any sort of "Stop Valve" for the shower plumbing (that would be 1/2" as you said).


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## AllGoNoShow (Aug 8, 2006)

I just redid my bath with pex. Yes 3/8th is the standard for toilet and sink supply hook ups. I used pass through floor supports from pex supply (they are metal and provide support and you screw them down)where my supplies ran through the bottom of the vanity and attached the shut off valve too.

For the toilet supply use a copper stub out..it converts the pex to copper then you can just use a compression shut off valve or preferably sweat on one. Pex sticking out of the floor where it can be seen such as the toilet supply looks weird imo.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Just a clarification. Wirsbo PEX is type A pex, which is a little more flexible than type B and type C PEX as I understand it. Since the Wirsbo tool expands the PEX and the ring, you need a more flexible type of PEX than B or C. I did my entire house using Wirsbo type A PEX.

However, type A PEX works fine with any other type of fitting, since the diameter is exactly the same as any other brand of PEX, whether it is type B or type C PEX.

As to the shutoffs, PEX supply sells a very nice quarter turn PEX shutoff valve, chrome body. It has a 1/2 inch PEX fitting on one end, and a threaded fitting on the other end that fits a standard stainless steel braided hose. I put several of these in my house, they look fine and work great. Or you can use a copper adapter and put any standard copper shutoff in, whether sweat fitting or compression. Personally I don't like sweat fittings for shutoffs,you cannot remove them easily if the valve leaks. And I don't much like the compression fittings, too twitchy. If I am using a standard type of shutoff, I might use a threaded copper shutoff, but really the PEX shutoffs are very nice. A little pricey, as I recall they were about $10 each.

As noted previously, you cannot use braided hose for the shower, you typically need copper pipe, not PEX, at least those were the instruction when I put my shower valve in (it was a Kohler). Copper pipe has a slightly larger inside dimension than PEX pipe, which is apparently important for constant temperature valves.


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

AlphaPilot said:


> I have purchased Uponor (Wirsbo) tubing and fittings for re-plumbing my house. It's also know as ProPEX.
> 
> I want to hookup my tubing to the sink, toilet, and shower.
> 
> The only resaler (supplyhouse.com) shows these end stops with shutoffs that have 3/8" compression on one end and 1/2" pro pex on the other. Do I just drill two holes in the subfloor, run my 1/2" pex to these stops, then use braided cable to supply each fixture? :huh:


Yes. 
I usually run pex up through the floor, slip on a 1/2" copper tube sized escutcheon. Then add the pex x compression stop. The 3/8 nut and ring is tossed and the braided flex screws right on.

Shower valves can generally be piped on the supply side with 1/2" pex- this depends on your house pressure and how many heads on the valve.

Shower risers to the heads I run copper for stubility and definitely copper to the spout due to flow restriction


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

yep shower is 1/2 pex for standard installation and they make 1/2 pex x 3/8 compression stop...as e said remove nut and ferrell attatch braided hose...:yes::yes: I 2nd that motion


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

Okay, so I have been given a few suggestions and some nice information. You're telling me the pex fittings from local stores will work on my 1/2" and 3/4" Wirsbo Aquapex just fine, using the expander ring method?

The floor support you are talking about. I assume that is this: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Uponor-Wirsbo-F5140500-1-2-Metal-Straight-through-Support

Next, I'm not a plumber - I do not have an copper sweat tools but I can get them if I really should. My understanding was yes, things will look funny if pex shows to toilet - but that is the only one that would show. The others are hidden under vanity and cabinets in the kitchen. What were those chrome shutoffs you used?

@TheEPlumber - that sounds like the most practical way for me to do things. So would I be okay using those stop valves I linked earlier or should I be looking at something else?

I found cheaper stops but they are Rifeng brand. http://www.supplyhouse.com/Rifeng-H160500LF-1-2-PEX-Angle-Stop-1-4-Turn-Lead-Free I'm afraid to use them with Wirsbo unless someone else has done this successfully? 

I looked behind my shower (there is access to it) and the previous plumbing job was...HORRID. They used 3/4 CPVC adapted down to 1/2CPV for 6" on both hot and cold which had male threads to thread into what *looks* like some sort of 3/4" Copper Female threaded adapter...I really do not know until I tear out the old fittings. I very likely will install a new tub or convert it to a shower. Any recommendations on pex friendly shower/tub fixtures that would be compatible with Wirsbo? I get the feeling that Daniel Holzman has used Wirsbo with the other brands with no problems - so that makes things better...just as long as it's with the expander rings as I don't want to buy another tool just for crimp rings.

The layout on the house is pretty basic. I have 3/4" CPVC converted to 3/4" Aquapex. This is my trunk line, which I am 'Teeing' to the water heater. From there I will come out with 3/4" Red Aquapex and run that down the line of my 3/4" Blue Aquapex. I have 1 dishwasher and 1 sink in the kitchen to connect, then 1 toilet 1 sink and 1 shower to connect in the bathroom, lastly 1 washing machine and 2 exterior hydrants. Everything is going to be reduced down from 3/4" to 1/2" using a 3/4" x 1/2" x 3/4" Tee facing up to the upstairs, which is where I will run my 1/2" Aquapex through to each fixture. (Possibly not the toilet, though?)


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

See bold type--


AlphaPilot said:


> Okay, so I have been given a few suggestions and some nice information. You're telling me the pex fittings from local stores will work on my 1/2" and 3/4" Wirsbo Aquapex just fine, using the expander ring method?*Wirsbo uses expansion rings. Expander method takes special fittings. However, the local store fittings will work with your pipe if you use metal crimp rings*
> 
> The floor support you are talking about. I assume that is this: http://www.supplyhouse.com/Uponor-Wirsbo-F5140500-1-2-Metal-Straight-through-Support*There many types- that is one of them. You can also get curved ones to match the bend radius of the pipe to eliminate 90's*
> 
> ...


*When ordering tees be carefull how you label them. Sounds like you actually want 3/4x3/4x1/2 T. The inlet and outlet are called out first- then the branch last*


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

@TheEPlumber - Thanks for the info. That makes sense, using my pex a tubing with other fittings but only if I get the crimp tool and rings -- an added expense I don't want to have now. I definitely will use crimp rings on my next house instead of this expanding method. Now that I have the $300 tool...I decide this, hah!

I'll just use the original stop valve for ProPEX that use the expander ring. They are $10.40 a piece.

Tees - My mistake...I label them as I imagine them but I did get the correct ones already. 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" which I imagine I will just splice in the trunk line for each fixture.

So as far as questions go - 
1.) The Toilet : Shall I just run my 1/2 to a stop valve and use a braided cable --- or do I need to get some copper adapter?

2.) Pex running up through the floor to the sinks - should I worry about the floor support or just use some clips again the vanity / cabinet when installed?

3.) Should I run 3/4" or 1/2" PexA to the shower fixture to later convert to copper when I have the time? For now I just want to cap it off after I get it next to the shower manifold with some caps I bought.

4.) Washing machine...do I need to fork out the $50 for the ProPEX Washing Machine wall mount box, or would I be okay running 1/2" and then adapting to the washing machine braided cables (I believe they are 3/4" thread, but the wall mount box uses 1/2" to supply it anyway which made me wonder why I can't do the same to save money)

Thanks for the clarifications!


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I plumb new homes every week and it's 100% pex to the stop valve. That's what the market pays- need to stay competitive....
As to what you stub out, it's all a matter of looks- an inch or 2 of blue pipe or copper. 

You need to support the pipe as it comes through the floor. I use pound in isolators--http://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Plastic-Pipe-Insulator-23074A10/202032971
But the metal brackets will hold the pipe more vertical- BTW, anchor pex every 32" when installing to meet code requirements.

I run 1/2" to a standard shower- this is assuming you have good water pressure. Consider putting 1/2" ball valves on the H&C lines- before the shower valve. Cap them for later hook up if you like. This will allow you to service the shower valve in the future without turning off the house main- most tub/shower valve don't come with shut off valves.

Flex connectors should not be inside a wall or part of the water piping system- only use them to connect to a fixture or washer.
Washing machine hoses are garden hose threads- much courser pattern so they won't mate to the supply side of your box anyways....


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Not at all clear why you plan to do your next job using crimp rings. You already have the expander tool, it works very nicely in my experience. Crimp rings can be a bit twitchy if the tool is not properly calibrated, the expander is really positive.


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

So you are saying I will need some support for each hole I have PEX running up? I would understand so that the stop valve doesn't just hang and flop around rather than being sturdy.

Those plastic ones look like they need a larger hole first, and then reduces it down for the 1/2" Pex?

I will go ahead and get a couple shutoffs for the shower as you said. Would you suggest getting the 1/2" Pex to Copper or just a 1/2" Pex to Pex ? I am guessing the copper would be nice for retrofitting, but since I am getting a new shower setup I don't think I need the copper connection?

@Daniel - I wouldn't mind this expander system as much if I had a local retailer. The issue is getting fittings. Like right now, I have to order all of these parts. I notice the 'ProPEX' fittings are significantly higher prices than crimp ring fittings (I.e. the ball valves, 1/2" x 3/8" stop valves, and copper fittings) Shipping is also an added fee. I need to get the right number of these stop valves and any other adapters, otherwise I get down the road and realize I need one more of something and have to wait...and pay shipping again. Amazon doesn't even retail most of these Uponor fittings I need...so it just makes things difficult while local stores all supply the crimp ring fittings and tools.

Last night I was so frustrated with the tool. I was in a couple tight areas due to ductwork and wiring. I could barely pump my tool in the space and I am aware I need to rotate it as I do, which was just a pain compared to reaching up with a crimp tool, and squeezing down. Mind you, some crimp tools are just as big...I would probably opt for something with a mechnical advantage and smaller size. (sort of sounds contradicting, haha)


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## AlphaPilot (Aug 6, 2012)

On the same note of not having a local store nearby, should I order two of these? for the shower "Just in Case" or do you think I will be fine with 1/2" pex connecting to a new shower manifold?


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