# 18g nails for fence ?



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

No way I would use brads. I would be using ring shanks of the appropriate length.
With 18g brads the boards that don't blow off will cup and twist pulling right thru the nail.


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## landfillwizard (Feb 21, 2014)

I have a Ryobi 16 ga. brad nailer. It is light and I can use 1½" nails for outdoor projects. I put up a fence by myself and used the brad nailer to temporarily put up the boards. After I did a section, I went back through and nailed the boards with my framing nailer. Tried to use the framing nailer first but with the air hose and the nailer being heavy it was awkward to hold the boards and shoot nails. I also used the brad nailer to put up cedar siding the same way.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

yeah, i am googling and found that out. i will temp fasten 1 section at a time with it.

i have a 10g framer. seems way overkill. i was looking at a new nailer. but for $200 + nails ? perhaps i should just use deck screws. it will take longer and be more work. it should cost much less and be srtonger, i am thinking. 

btw. i AM doing this. i am learning what to get, how to install it and waiting for the stuff to go on sale. and the weather to break. HOPEFULLY less than 1 month i can start putting up posts.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

I know the feeling.I'm about 180 miles south of you.Have three fences to do already this year.Weather warms up and customers get ansy.Next day cold again.Next couple days three inches of rain.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

#1, Brads have no heads, no ring shanks, no holding power, no way will hold up when in contact with pressure treated lumber.
Should be using real siding nails for this job.
Smaller gauge and head, ring shanked.
If that fence is Cedar then it should also be a stainless steel nail or your going to have black marks running down the wall.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-...l-Siding-Nails-120-Pack-T7SND-RP120/205427387


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

this is where it is going. 6'+. i will gate the front. then perhaps gate the rear later.

btw, yes, you can have that snow blower.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

This is the gun I use for siding, fencing, bird houses, flower boxes, any outside wooden 1 X trim.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i will be using ACQ from menards. then stain it. 

shortly after this project, i will be running a different, better looking, style fence down the side. so, i need to keep costs in check. i am guestimating about $1000 for all of it. 

something like these down the side.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

joe, your link shows their home page.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

and i am thinking about the premade panels, $45ish. (but i would still need good fasteners for the nice fence that i will make myself. ) i have a short fence with the premades, that was here 3-4 years before me, 4 years now. and they seem to be holding up well, even with no maintenance what so ever. idk yet.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

http://www.cpooutlets.com/bostitch-...B&cgid=bostitch-pneumatics-air-tools&start=61

Sorry the phone rang and I got distracted.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

thanx. but $260 + nails is way pricy for my needs. i am thinking i will use deck screws.
about $40 for 1000.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Why wouldn't a 15 ga finish nailer work?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

We just completed a fence (54 feet)---we hand nailed the entire thing---
Get Maze brand nails from Menards--they have the heavy ones for the cross members and hot dipped 8 pennys for the boards.

Not worth buying a nailer and a case of nails for that job. 

As you may have guessed, I have a couple of framing guns--the hand nailing was plenty fast and no over sunk nails into thin pickets--Just a thought.


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## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

ToolSeeker said:


> Why wouldn't a 15 ga finish nailer work?


Few reasons .15g nails are not made for exposure to weather.They are to small of a shank for any holding power and the heads are to small to 
keep the boards from twisting and cupping .The boards will move no matter what kind of nails used but they will pull right off of a 15 g .nail.They call them trim nails for a reason.
I could go on but that should be enough.
Going to edit this: Do your own test.Take a one X and your 15g nailer and shoot aa couple on the bench into a 2 x 4.I bet you can pull them apart easily by hand. Now drive a couple ring shanks into the same wood and pull them apart.Not very scientific but you will get the idea.
Wood,especially what they sell for fences these days has a high moisture content.When it acclimates and dries out it does all sorts of weird thing like twist,cup and warp.A 15 gauge or any nail will not stop some of this from happening but a 15 g finish nail does not stand a chance.This is just the simplest way of stating it I could think of.
They also have almost no head and the wood will pull away from them in a heart beat.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i think i am just going to use deck screws.

anyway. the project is underway. cleared the bacck and set the property line. i have a recent survey and i found the pins. ran fishing line, thats all i had. 

found the side pins and ran fishing line, 12" from the property line = because of my $hithead neighbors hut being 8-10" over the line. i am getting a permit for the fence, and i will then notify the city of the encroachment. and then see what they do about it. 
and i drilled 1 hole and chucked in a post i had, just for effect and encouragement.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Good start!

I like stick building a fence---while it does take a bit longer, I don't have to be all that fussy about keeping the post spacing perfect.

Also, If the yard slopes--I can have the sections rise or fall with the terain instead of having to step the sections up or down.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

hey, your in the wrong thread :biggrin2:

good points, and something i didn't know. the side yard does slope a little.
i would have to measure, but right there i think its about 2" in 8".
idk if the premades would "shift" enough. but i could use em in the back.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I wouldn't give up those 12". Go right to the line....especially since you have the property pins.

When the original owners of the house I'm in built the block wall on one side, the inset it about 12" or so....I wish I had that 12".


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