# How do you convert a drop ceiling to a normal ceiling???



## acoustic_bum (Jan 15, 2007)

Hello,
I have just bought a house that has an entire floor of drop ceilings. I plan on taking it all apart and installing a regular ceiling. The upstairs joists are about 10" or so above the tiles. Can anyone tell me how to do it. Please include how the pattern of the joists should be. i know they are supposed to be 16 in OC but does that go both ways. IE> making a ton of squares?? Obviously i need some help.. and how do i support it in the center?


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## JeepCop (Dec 17, 2006)

First of all, I'd be curious as to why you have drop ceilings througout the first floor. This more than likely was done for a reason. There could be numerous obstacles in the way (plumbing lines, HVAC lines, Etc.) that required a drop ceiling as opposed to a traditional ceiling. If there aren't any potential problem areas, the traditional ceiling you're looking for is rather easy to do. No, you don't need to make "squares" with your joists. Take a look and let us know what you have to work with. Hope this helps...


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

On the contrary, I think this is not a very easy job to do, because normally you put drywall ceiling first before walls, now you are trying to do the reverse order... which mean a difficult time would be the gaps between wall and ceiling... may be you need to install crown moulding to resolve these gaps problems....anyhow... to put ceiling up is tougher than hanging walls......


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## JeepCop (Dec 17, 2006)

Ooops! Just saw your same thread in the "General Discussion" section...


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## JeepCop (Dec 17, 2006)

KUIPORNG said:


> On the contrary, I think this is not a very easy job to do, because normally you put drywall ceiling first before walls, now you are trying to do the reverse order... which mean a difficult time would be the gaps between wall and ceiling... may be you need to install crown moulding to resolve these gaps problems....anyhow... to put ceiling up is tougher than hanging walls......


Good point, but it can be corrected by cutting a half inch "channel" (drywall thickness) from the corner of where the ceiling drywall and wall drywall form an angle. The ceiling drywall will "slide" into place...


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## KUIPORNG (Jan 11, 2006)

well this may be an idea, may be not even do that if the original owner build the wall after the job down ceiling... means there will be a big gap between the ceiling and the wall.... anyway... a lot of work... but I agree it is doable....


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

As was stated, there is probably a reason that the drop ceiling was installed. In which case, you will probably have to build sofits around whatever obstacles there are. A little bit of extra work but if you have a little carpentry experience it should be too much of a problem. 
Crown is a good solution for the gap between wall and ceiling, but if you want, as long as you cut the drywall well, taping and mudding shouldnt be a problem for those corners. I usually do crown though if the look is right for the room. Because there will be no support from the wall to help keep the ceiling up at the edges, I personally would do strapping across the joists and make sure to sink plenty of screws. In my area, 5/8" is code for drywall on ceilings. You may want to do that as this helps prevent sagging.
I like the channel idea as jeepcop stated I have just never personally done this...great idea through, sure it would work if you can do it.
Hope that helps. :thumbsup:


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## mnp13 (Jan 16, 2007)

is the original ceiling above the drop ceiling? In my experience many owners put in a drop ceiling to make it cheaper to heat or to avoid upkeep on plaster. I have found original tin ceilings over paper ceiling tiles. They fixed some plumbing and destroyed about 3 square feet of the tin. Instead of spending the $100 to fix it with matching tiles they covered it.


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## acoustic_bum (Jan 15, 2007)

thanks for all the advice guys.. very helpful.

I ended up running a 2x4 perimeter around the room and used brackets to run 2x4's across the room supporting them about every 5 feet or so. and it seems to be very secure and easy.. for the most part. now i just have to do the rest of the floor.. lol... but thank you all very much.


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