# Can't get unit to turn on need electrical help please-wiring diagram included



## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Yowp!


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## unclduey (Mar 2, 2009)

Is this a Fujitsu unit? If so they need 5 wires between.


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## Bocolo (Jan 24, 2009)

I think you will need a bit more of information. You say the wires are correctly wired but do not say how they are wired. If you explain your exact wiring configuration (i.e. I connected the black coming from the breaker to the black on the outdoor unit) I am sure some of the guys in here will be able to help you out. You have some pretty smart guys in here.


Ooops, kind of late.


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## loyal (Apr 6, 2009)

What exactly is a mini-split a/c?

An air conditioner of some kind?:huh:


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## Sliver (Nov 18, 2008)

The manufacturer and model of the unit might help.
Do you ave anything else like a wiring diagram from the manufacturer, or a picture of the actual connections.
Have you tried to call the manufacturer to ask them, maybe there is a known issue that they can help you with.

Also you bought a multimeter... WHY WOULD YOU SHOCK YOUR SELF TO TEST FOR VOLTAGE? If you spent money to buy the proper tools, use them, and learn how to use them properly.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

igotshocked said:


> May be unsafe and silly but I've tested each connection all the way from outdoor unit to indoor unit by shocking MYSELF, thats each single wire: red, black, white all had shocking power to my finger by using the grounding wire on each unit.


That is an excellent way to get killed. Really. These are just two of many, many examples of someone killed by a standard 120V circuit.

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/face/In-house/full8841.html

http://www.clickorlando.com/money/7302637/detail.html


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the replies guys, I will try to answer all the best as possible, also I have some additional photos as well as links so hopefully we can figure this out. 

untitled.bmp is an exact copy of the manual, I scanned the manual but the file was to big so I just drew it on paint.

And the following photos are just pictures to verify that the wires are placed where they should be, also in the manual there are wires numbered 2 and 3 but my unit does not have those two. I'm guessing that is for an alternate unit. But the unit(s) and the wires that came with it are marked on the wire and where each wire connects from unit to unit for dummy proof wiring (Oh how dumb I will feel If somehow it wired incorrectly).

1=red
L1=black
N1=white
ground symbol=green

Model number for the indoor unit is KF-35GW/GX1b After googling this I found an indepth breakdown of the unit which maybe helpful: page 18 and 19 on this pdf are wired exactly like mine http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/itemdocs/NapDuctlessManual.pdf 

As for AND functions, I dont know, I read that whole page but wasn't following, although I have search the unit for fuses but cant find any that are exposed. If you look at the indoor picture behind the tiny wires to the right is a circuit board which may have fuses on it, but it seems I would have to dismantle the whole unit to access. Another thing to note that your comment reminded me of, in the manual about the remote it mentions that when each button on the remote is pressed with the remote pointing toward the unit, signal is sent when the signal is recieved a sound is emitted. I have tried this, but nothing happened.

I don't have a picture of the outdoor unit to power but I have double check it just to make sure, black to black, white to white, green to ground(exposed wire). The unit I'm replacing is old but still works, where I disconnect the old unit, the black,white,ground wire, I'm simply connecting the new unit (compressor) to black,white,ground wires and I get nothing. However I can reconnect old unit and it works.

I have contacted the manufacturer but they wernt to helpful, pretty much told me to contact an electrician. So here I'am :yes:.

As for shocking myself, I wanted to see if I was recieving power from the outdoor unit to the indoor unit. I was unable to figure out how to use the multi-meter, and without the unit actually being on I couldnt get a reading using the amp meter. 

If additional information would be helpful let me know, I will do my best, I want to get this thing working, any troubleshooting instructions would be aswesome and I will report the results.

Thank once agian.


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

Just to be clear on the second picture, the diagram in the manual has the ground to the far right to where all the wires are put into, but on the compressor there isnt a slot for the ground wire there. If you look at the picture the gold screw to the bottom right of the wires is where the ground symbol was so thats where I put it. It seems liked common sense so I hope it is.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Your link has wiring diagrams. After finding the correct one you should carefully measure voltages at component terminals with respect to the neutral terminal and post the values. Start with the 6.3A fuse.

Why don't you have the reasonable fear of electricity that most people have?


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

Yoyizit said:


> Your link has wiring diagrams. After finding the correct one you should carefully measure voltages at component terminals with respect to the neutral terminal and post the values. Start with the 6.3A fuse.
> 
> Why don't you have the reasonable fear of electricity that most people have?


Ok, from my link http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/i...lessManual.pdf
on page 18 I see the 6.3A fuse.

From the third picture I uploaded it seems I can't access this without taking it completely apart, if you take a look at page 10 from the link, it appears that I need to disassemble down to #31-38. 

Should I be doing this or is there something I'm missing?


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## williswires (Jul 21, 2008)

igotshocked said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have recenlty purchased a brand new mini-split a/c, followed installation directions to a "T" but can't seem to get unit to turn on. I have included a picture to show the wiring diagram of the unit(s), all wires are in their correct location for I have checked them countless times now. I have just purchased a multi meter as well as a 400amp clamp style amp meter, both of which I have no experience in using. So hopefully someone can help me trouble shoot this process, in hopes that I dont have a faulty unit.
> 
> ...


 


It appears you are trying to run a 120VAC unit using 240V power.  I agree that your unit appears to be a 120V unit, based on the drawings. Verify with the nameplate (post a clear picture of it!).

(A) If it is 120V unit, using your meter, set on AC volts, range at least 250V, verify voltage at your incoming power at the outdoor unit. You should have:

Black to white = 120V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = <1.0V.

(B) If your power is from a true double pole breaker, you will read:
Black to white = 240V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = 120V.

(C) If your power if from a tandem breaker (frequently mistaken for a double-pole), you will read:
Black to white = 0V.
Black to ground = 120V.
White to ground = 120V.

I think you have situation "B".

If so, you need to redo the breaker panel supply power to supply power from a single pole breaker (black wire), and hook the white wire to the neutral bus in your panel.

If you don't think you can do this safely - call an electrician!

...and your unit might also be damaged if you put 240V on it...is it a Soleus unit?...


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## HouseHelper (Mar 20, 2007)

I would agree with williswires on this.... you are trying to run a 120V unit at 240V. Hopefully you haven't damaged the electronics by doing this.


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

williswires said:


> It appears you are trying to run a 120VAC unit using 240V power.  I agree that your unit appears to be a 120V unit, based on the drawings. Verify with the nameplate (post a clear picture of it!).
> 
> (A) If it is 120V unit, using your meter, set on AC volts, range at least 250V, verify voltage at your incoming power at the outdoor unit. You should have:
> 
> ...


Willis your AWESOME!!! I feel like I'm getting somewhere now, hopefully I didn't damage my unit. Here is a picture of the outdoor unit panel, also a picture of the fuse box.

Your right about situation "B" I used my meter and those where the results I got.

So, I feel I can do the work myself without paying an electrician, I just need to be told what to do and understand some terminology.

*You need to redo the breaker panel supply power to supply power from a single pole breaker (black wire), and hook the white wire to the neutral bus in your panel.*

By doing this can I leave the black wire I'm already connecting to connected? And do I have to actually run the white wire all the way to the fuse box? Please elaborate on this step. 

The outdoor unit(compressor is a Chigo while the indoor unit is a Toshiba.

Thank you so much for your clarity and help thus far, cross your fingers and hope with me that I didn't damage this unit...we will soon find out.


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

I did some research on fuse boxes and was able to find a single pole breaker. After connecting the outdoor unit to the single pole breaker, white to white, black to black, ground to ground. Turned breaker on. Used my meter and now my results are where they should be:

Black to white 120v
black to ground 120v
white to ground <1

Grabbed remote pressed power and nothing .

I think I may have damaged the unit, I also used the meter to test the wires at the indoor unit and I'm getting the same readings as above, so I'm pretty sure everything is connected properly from indoor to outdoor to power.

What can I do now?


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## Magnettica (Jan 13, 2009)

This is a 115 volt system with a minimum ampacity requirement of 14 amps, and the overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) is required to be a maximum of 20 amps. 

So, you need 14-2 wire from the panel to the condensing unit, and a single-pole 20 amp circuit breaker. 

Without having read each post on this thread, the 4 wires going from the outside CU to the indoor air handler are for control wiring. They may, or may not be 115 volts.


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## Leah Frances (Jan 13, 2008)

Magnettica said:


> This is a 115 volt system with a minimum ampacity requirement of 14 amps, and the overcurrent protection (circuit breaker) is required to be a maximum of 20 amps.
> 
> So, you need *14-2 *wire from the panel to the condensing unit, and a single-pole 20 amp circuit breaker.
> 
> Without having read each post on this thread, the 4 wires going from the outside CU to the indoor air handler are for control wiring. They may, or may not be 115 volts.


You want 12 g with 20A breaker.


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## dSilanskas (Mar 23, 2008)

You fried the unit if you hooked it up to 220volts. Its a 110volt system.... Sorry


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## HouseHelper (Mar 20, 2007)

Leah Frances said:


> You want 12 g with 20A breaker.


Minimum ampacity is 14A, so 14ga wire is appropriate. Max overcurrent protection is 20A, so 20A breaker is appropriate. HVAC units play by different rules.

To the OP.... can you return the unit as "defective out of the box"?


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## Magnettica (Jan 13, 2009)

dSilanskas said:


> You fried the unit if you hooked it up to 220volts. Its a 110volt system.... Sorry


I tend agree.


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

HouseHelper said:


> Minimum ampacity is 14A, so 14ga wire is appropriate. Max overcurrent protection is 20A, so 20A breaker is appropriate. HVAC units play by different rules.
> 
> To the OP.... can you return the unit as "defective out of the box"?


I will see tomorrow about being able to return the item. How "fried" is "fried"? I have access to the circuit board on the indoor unit and the 6.3 fuse is blown from what I can see. Would replacing the fuse work?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

It can't hurt to try and replace the fuse.


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## dSilanskas (Mar 23, 2008)

Possible you can try.


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

Will a AGC 2A work?


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## jbfan (Jul 1, 2004)

igotshocked said:


> Will a AGC 2A work?


Not long enough to see if it will run.:thumbup:
You need to replace the fuse with the same size and rating.


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

I will go to radio shack tomorrow and see if they have one. Anything else I should check out that could have possibly blown and could pick up at radio shack as well?

I really hope that this will fix it...:wallbash:


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

Ok, I went to the shack and bought a 6.3 fuse. Replaced the blown one in the indoor unit, turned breaker on, it beeps and blows at the same time. 

Is there anything specifically that would cause this? Here is a link, both wiring diagrams are here for indoor and outdoor unit:http://www.ajmadison.com/ajmadison/i...lessManual.pdf

Is this thing shot? Am I just wasting my time? Or is this thing fixable?


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

Reading the diagram power enters the unit circuitry at the outdoor unit on the black wire connected to L. A brown jumper then connects L to L1 taking power to the indoor unit on the black wire. This gets power to the stepping motor, indoor unit fan motor and low voltage transformer.. When the unit powers up the NO switch at the indoor unit closes sending power over the red wire to power the outdoor unit compressor and condenser fan. The 6.3 amp fuse protects the stepping motor and indoor unit fan. The circuit breaker protects the outdoor unit along with the internal overload of the compressor. If the 6.3 amp fuse blows you have no low voltage control because the transformer cannot get power. Nor can the stepping motor and fan motor of the indoor unit run. Without control voltage I doubt the outdoor unit can operate on call for heat or cool because the NO switch probably closes on low voltage control.

So my guess is you likely need to see about what to do in returning the damaged unit. If you are responsible for overpowering the unit by connecting to 240 volts you are going to have to fess up the responsibility for damaging the unit IMO. This likely will require purchasing a new one. Live and learn. Connecting a 120 volt unit to 240 volts when it was obvious being wired to a double pole breaker would tell me that you should not have been attempting the electrical part of this install. I don't mean that in a insulting manner but it was a fundamental mistake. Just how I see things.


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## PaliBob (Jun 11, 2008)

Stubbie, Well Said, Good Analysis


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## igotshocked (Apr 13, 2009)

Stubbie said:


> Reading the diagram power enters the unit circuitry at the outdoor unit on the black wire connected to L. A brown jumper then connects L to L1 taking power to the indoor unit on the black wire. This gets power to the stepping motor, indoor unit fan motor and low voltage transformer.. When the unit powers up the NO switch at the indoor unit closes sending power over the red wire to power the outdoor unit compressor and condenser fan. The 6.3 amp fuse protects the stepping motor and indoor unit fan. The circuit breaker protects the outdoor unit along with the internal overload of the compressor. If the 6.3 amp fuse blows you have no low voltage control because the transformer cannot get power. Nor can the stepping motor and fan motor of the indoor unit run. Without control voltage I doubt the outdoor unit can operate on call for heat or cool because the NO switch probably closes on low voltage control.
> 
> So my guess is you likely need to see about what to do in returning the damaged unit. If you are responsible for overpowering the unit by connecting to 240 volts you are going to have to fess up the responsibility for damaging the unit IMO. This likely will require purchasing a new one. Live and learn. Connecting a 120 volt unit to 240 volts when it was obvious being wired to a double pole breaker would tell me that you should not have been attempting the electrical part of this install. I don't mean that in a insulting manner but it was a fundamental mistake. Just how I see things.


Thanks for taking the time out to help me further understand whats going on with this unit. Also no affense taken, I assume all responsibility. I made the error of thinking that this compressor would easliy take the place of the one I was replacing.

Since hooking it up to the 240 volts blew the unit(s), does this mean that it just blew the circuit breaker (outdoor) as well as the 6.3 fuse (indoor)? Or does this mean that pretty much all electrical components on both units are shot? It seems to me that I should be able to just replace the circuit breaker and fuse, for that is what they are there for right? 

I would hope that atleast one if not both, either outdoor or indoor unit is salvagable for the simple fact that this was an expensive purchase and hopefully I can save some money from the error I made.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

Fuses blow in milliseconds; electronics dies in microseconds. At a minimum you probably need a new control board.

Just don't get on a Slippery Slope where you throw money and time at a goal [a working unit] that is always just around the next corner.


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## Stubbie (Jan 7, 2007)

igotshocked said:


> Thanks for taking the time out to help me further understand whats going on with this unit. Also no affense taken, I assume all responsibility. I made the error of thinking that this compressor would easliy take the place of the one I was replacing.
> 
> Since hooking it up to the 240 volts blew the unit(s), does this mean that it just blew the circuit breaker (outdoor) as well as the 6.3 fuse (indoor)? Or does this mean that pretty much all electrical components on both units are shot? It seems to me that I should be able to just replace the circuit breaker and fuse, for that is what they are there for right?
> 
> I would hope that at least one if not both, either outdoor or indoor unit is salvagable for the simple fact that this was an expensive purchase and hopefully I can save some money from the error I made.


Hard to say what is and is not damaged without testing. I think you have a good possibility that the outdoor unit is ok. I suspect that your damage is limited to the indoor unit but thats a guess based on the transfomer losing power before high voltage got to the outside unit. It only takes a brief exposer to burn things out like motor windings and the like. I'm not sure who would even take the time to try to determine what is bad and what isn't. You are blowing the fuse now even when under the correct voltage so something is burned and shorting causing too much amperage to be drawn through the fuse. If you can gain access to the control board you maybe can see if there are burned areas. It is also possible that you burned the fan motor windings and now the fuse won't hold do to a shorting issue. You will have to see if you can get someone out to test the unit and look it over. My guess is when you tell them you exposed the unit to 240 volts they are going to just tell you it isn't repairable. But you might find a tech that will troubleshoot for you. Just have to check around town.


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

You could consider returning the unit and getting a replacement in exchange!
I won't go into the morality of this, however its done all the time!


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## allcoastelec (Jan 30, 2014)

*Chigo wiring configeration*

i recently had installed a chigo air conditioning unit for a customer. so from the indoor unit to the out door unit is a black 4 pair cable with earth. At the indoor unit the cable is connected on a terminal block with the cabling being number from 1 to 4 " 1 2 3 4 Earth " and at the outdoor unit it is labeled " 1 2(N) 3 Earth ". the indoor unit is supplied with a 15 amp 240 volt lead that plugs into the wall, resulting in power supplied to the head and transmitting voltages to the compressor. the indoor unit came pre-wired straight from the factory. i was wondering if any one has come across this problem and how it can be rectified?


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## Daron Dyer (Feb 9, 2018)

I saw the same thing as I read the first post......2-pole 20 amp breaker (240 volt) and a unit that is 115 volt. Wondering what kind of damage may have happened to circuit board....???? Maybe nothing burnt up !!! I'm going to watch this discussion to see what happens here.
Daron


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## COLDIRON (Mar 15, 2009)

I would say this post is dated.


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## Daron Dyer (Feb 9, 2018)

Holy **** !!! I see the date now......OMG ! I'm new to this stuff but that was just stupid ! Thank You for pointing it out.

Daron


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