# Drywall Cuts



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

A drywall square and a utility knife.




__





48 in. Drywall Square






www.homedepot.com


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

anyacolo said:


> obviously i know how to use a drywall saw to make cuts, and i have a lot of experience doing so,
> 
> but my question is.....
> 
> ...


You should be only butting sheet ends together on a join, no reason for having cuts' end up on a stud. And using a saw is a mistake.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

rjniles said:


> You should be only butting sheet ends together on a join, no reason for having cuts' end up on a stud.


yes there are reasons, or i wouldn't be doing it



> And using a saw is a mistake.


i realize that....that is why i am asking my question


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

Use a straight edge like a drywall square or ripping square and score the front side paper with a utility knife. Snap the piece off and then use the utility knife to cut the back paper. It results in a near perfect cut. You can gently plane off the cut edge with a surform plane (kinda like a cheese grater) to smooth the edge further or fine tune adjustments to fit.

I always hang drywall horizontal to keep factory, tapered edges together wherever I can. Also use longer sheets to minimize end to end butt joints. Long vertical joints that run floor to ceiling are easier to see, so always stagger vertical butt joints when possible or end them above doors and above/below windows. I'll throw away half sheets before I'll use a bunch of small pieces to finish a section of wall.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

iamrfixit said:


> Use a straight edge like a drywall square or ripping square and score the front side paper with a utility knife. Snap the piece off and then use the utility knife to cut the back paper. It results in a near perfect cut. You can gently plane off the cut edge with a surform plane (kinda like a cheese grater) to smooth the edge further or fine tune adjustments to fit.
> 
> I always hang drywall horizontal to keep factory, tapered edges together wherever I can. Also use longer sheets to minimize end to end butt joints. Long vertical joints that run floor to ceiling are easier to see, so always stagger vertical butt joints when possible or end them above doors and above/below windows. I'll throw away half sheets before I'll use a bunch of small pieces to finish a section of wall.


thanks for the info about the cutting, i will try that method

i am going to be hanging it horozontally,


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

+3 on a drywall T-square, one of the great, simple inventions of the DIY era. You will be amazed at not only how straight your drywall cuts become, but just how fast you can move along once you perfect your technique. Also, it doesn't hurt to buy a drywall rasp. It's a nice little tool to use if you do make a less than stellar straight cut.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

I also use a utility knife, score it a bit then it'll snap nice and clean, then cut the paper backing and clean up the edge if needed. Kind of like cutting glass, you're not cutting it straight through, just scoring and breaking it at the score. 

I only use a drywall saw when rough cutting already hung drywall, never on cuts that are more accessible. Too much mess and the cut quality sucks.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

Joeywhat said:


> I only use a drywall saw when rough cutting already hung drywall, never on cuts that are more accessible. Too much mess and the cut quality sucks.


what about around electrical outlets?


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

For small openings use a drywall saw, a utility knife or sometimes a combination of those. I use a cordless rotary cutout tool with a pilot point bit for almost all cut outs. It produces clean and smooth holes very fast. Takes some skill and can produce a bit of dust on some cuts but it's fast and worth it. 

Once you master that tool it really speeds up drywall work, no need to measure and layout so many cuts, you can just hang the sheet on the wall then zip out around the boxes or openings. Takes skill and control, if you're not good with it you can quickly make more to mud and repair.


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## Joeywhat (Apr 18, 2020)

I haven't had to cut out an electrical box hole in drywall yet, usually when I'm doing that sort of work I need to repair an existing hole so I'm cutting out a larger hole and patching with a new piece of drywall. 

If I ever need to cut a new hole in drywall for an electrical box, I'd try one of those oscillating tool cutters that is shaped for a standard electrical box. Should cut a just right sized hole without much effort, if it works as advertised.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I recently saw an ingenious tool at Menard's for use with electrical boxes. It snaps onto the box and has probes at each corner. Once you know exactly where your sheet is going, you press it onto the probes which puts holes in the drywall at each box corner. Pull back and cut out for the box using the holes left behind by the probes. Another old trick is to use a marking crayon and mark around the box, press the sheet against the box, and the crayon leaves an outline of where to cut. A cordless oscillating tool becomes your best friend cutting out for electrical boxes.


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## lenaitch (Feb 10, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> I recently saw an ingenious tool at Menard's for use with electrical boxes. It snaps onto the box and has probes at each corner. Once you know exactly where your sheet is going, you press it onto the probes which puts holes in the drywall at each box corner. Pull back and cut out for the box using the holes left behind by the probes. Another old trick is to use a marking crayon and mark around the box, press the sheet against the box, and the crayon leaves an outline of where to cut. A cordless oscillating tool becomes your best friend cutting out for electrical boxes.


I'll have to keep an eye out for that 'box tool'. Seems like it might be a fairly inexpensive item. I don't do enough to justify a roto-zip saw (oscillating saw maybe). I've tried using a solvent marker with poor success - it seems the marker dries too quickly. I have heard, but not tried, lipstick works as well (might be hard to explain it in the toolbox though).


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## XSleeper (Sep 23, 2007)

anyacolo said:


> what about around electrical outlets?


Thats what a rotozip is for.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

XSleeper said:


> Thats what a rotozip is for.


thanks, but i can't really justify buying one,

this is probably going to be my one and only drywall project for as long as i live,

and i only have about 6-8 boxes to cut out,

i guess i will just measure well, and use the hand saw carefully


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

anyacolo said:


> obviously i know how to use a drywall saw to make cuts, and i have a lot of experience doing so


It's a little confusing from our point of view, because there's no reason it would be obvious you know how to use a drywall saw to make cuts, because if you have a lot of experience doing so, but don't know how to make a normal cut..... well that's a very curious situation.

If you need to cut drywall to fit in a space and line 2 pieces up on a stud, then make your cut and put the cut side in the corner, and the factory perfect side on the stud.

If you do need to make a very clean line, then score and snap with a utility knife as mentioned above, and then use a drywall rasp to smooth that edge if necessary.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

anyacolo said:


> what about around electrical outlets?


Drywall jab saw. For cleaner lines with less dust (because the kerf is smaller) use an oscillating tool with drywall or wood blade.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

lenaitch said:


> I don't do enough to justify a roto-zip saw


You can also use a Dremel with the same rotary bit, if you have one. Not for industrial use, but will work for occasional use.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

jeffnc said:


> It's a little confusing from our point of view, because there's no reason it would be obvious you know how to use a drywall saw to make cuts


i guess i said obviously because a drywall hand saw is such a simple tool to use,

i have alot of experience cutting electrical outlet boxes in EXISTING walls,



> If you need to cut drywall to fit in a space and line 2 pieces up on a stud, then make your cut and put the cut side in the corner, and the factory perfect side on the stud.


without going into a long explanation, this is not possible to do in a few spots, i will NEED TO HAVE a cut edge on a stud in the center of my room



> If you do need to make a very clean line, then score and snap with a utility knife as mentioned above, and then use a drywall rasp to smooth that edge if necessary.


that is what i will be doing, thank you


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Enlighten us to when you need a cut edge to fall on a stud. I cannot think of one unless you are trying to use scraps.

Sent from my Lenovo TB-X606F using Tapatalk


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

I understand how it can be frustrating to ask a question and want a simple answer when everyone is asking for your life history, but for what it's worth, I agree with rjniles - unless you're trying to use scraps (which is not really recommended, because it's cheaper and faster to install larger sections of drywall than having to patch a bunch of smaller sections), then there isn't any reason you can't put the factory edge on a stud. It simply doesn't make any sense.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

jeffnc said:


> there isn't any reason you can't put the factory edge on a stud. It simply doesn't make any sense.



it does make sense, and here is why.......

my room is rectangular, about 30 feet long,

the 2 interior walls i built myself, the two exterior walls were built by the builder,

the walls i built, are studded 16 inches OC,

the walls i built, i can do as you suggested, and put cut ends at the ends of the walls,

those 2 walls are fine.....


the builders walls are studded 24 inches OC, however not all the studs are PERFECTLY OC,

so when i lay my first sheet from the end wall horizontally, it lines up perfectly with the stud 8 feet away,

the next sheet i lay beside it will not line up exactly on the stud 8 feet away, it will be about 1-2 inches longer, or 1-2 inches shorter, if i started at the other end of the room,

so that is why cuts in the middle of the room will be nessessary, 

yes i understand i can add in studs, or move studs, but these walls are already nicely insulated, and vapor barriered, by the builder,

so i don't really want to mess around with them,

instead of playing around with the studs, i feel its just easier to cut 1-2 inches off the drywall, and let the guy who is doing the mudding and sanding worry about it


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Drywall butt boards.









Strait-Flex 45 in. Drywall Shims DS-45 - The Home Depot


Strait-Flex's Drywall Shims, are used for floating butt-joints and framing irregularities. Shims can be attached with screws or nails to framing members of each side of a butt-joint to allow a greater



www.homedepot.com


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

rjniles said:


> Drywall butt boards.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



so i can join the drywall between studs with these?


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## iamrfixit (Jan 30, 2011)

anyacolo said:


> so i can join the drywall between studs with these?


It's pretty normal to have to cut sheets to fall on a stud now and then. You can easily make a good, clean crosscut on a sheet with only a square and utility knife. You can also use longer 12' (or even longer) sheets to bridge over problem framing areas or to reduce the number of butt joints. You'll probably still need to cut the sheet back to use a butt board, the joint needs to fall at least close to center of the stud cavity to allow room for the board. You can buy pre made butt boards or you can also make your own.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

anyacolo said:


> the next sheet i lay beside it will not line up exactly on the stud 8 feet away, it will be about 1-2 inches longer, or 1-2 inches shorter, if i started at the other end of the room,
> 
> so that is why cuts in the middle of the room will be nessessary,


Cuts are one way to do it, but by no means "necessary".

If you are only off by an inch or so, then the easiest thing to do is simply sister in some stud blocks (not entire studs) where needed. They only need to be about 6" long. Or make it easier and just make them 4' long.

Or use backblocking. Makes for an easier joint to tape anyway.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

_If you are only off by an inch or so, then the easiest thing to do is simply sister in some stud blocks (not entire studs) where needed _

that's what I usually do


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

jeffnc said:


> If you are only off by an inch or so, then the easiest thing to do is simply sister in some stud blocks (not entire studs) where needed. They only need to be about 6" long.


why would they only need to be 6 inches long?

you mean just put a 6 inch piece in the middle of the 4 foot drywall?

does it need to be connected to a stud?

is that enough support?



> Or use backblocking. Makes for an easier joint to tape anyway.


can you explain what this is?

are you refferring to the "butt boards"?


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

rjniles said:


> Enlighten us to when you need a cut edge to fall on a stud. I cannot think of one unless you are trying to use scraps.
> 
> Sent from my Lenovo TB-X606F using Tapatalk


Well there is always the crappy framing job though to be honest when faced with that I try to cut to two ends and meet the factory edges at the seam. Usually works as many room are less that 15' per side.


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

iamrfixit said:


> You'll probably still need to cut the sheet back to use a butt board, the joint needs to fall at least close to center of the stud cavity to allow room for the board. You can buy pre made butt boards or you can also make your own.


I don't know if I understand how the product in that video works. I've used scrap wood behind small joints where there's no stud, like in odd-shaped corners. I've sistered a stud with scrap 2x4s when it didn't line up exactly.

But the buttboard video shows a recess at the joint. Is the board beveled somehow, and it pulls the joint in?

If so, I'd think about making ALL butt joints between the studs, and using buttboard on all of them, just to get that recess. I'm a total amateur at mudding, so could use all the help I can get.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Yes the butt boards have a taper that pulls the un-tapered edge of the drywall in to create a taper similar to the factory tapers. I have only used them once but they work very well if the joint id not too close to the stud. If the joint is within an inch of the stud it is better to sister another stud.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

rjniles said:


> Yes the butt boards have a taper that pulls the un-tapered edge of the drywall in to create a taper similar to the factory tapers. I have only used them once but they work very well if the joint id not too close to the stud. If the joint is within an inch of the stud it is better to sister another stud.


could you still use these between studs WITH the factory tapered edge?

meaning, with two sheets of drywall that have not been cut?


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

anyacolo said:


> why would they only need to be 6 inches long? you mean just put a 6 inch piece in the middle of the 4 foot drywall? does it need to be connected to a stud? is that enough support?


1. Really that was arbitrary. They can be 3" long. Just long enough to get your drywall screw into.
2. You put an extra little piece of stud at the spots you would normally screw in. So on a 4' piece of drywall, you're using 4 screws on that edge, so you need a block wherever a screw goes in. But usually it's just as easy to just put a 4' piece of stud in there - that way you don't have to do any cutting.
3. Yes of course.
4. Yes.





anyacolo said:


> can you explain what this is? are you refferring to the "butt boards"?


The name of the technique is backblocking. It can be accomplished different ways. Butt boards are one way to accomplish that. There are manufacturers of those with different names. Buttboard is one.








Trim-Tex | Drywall Solutions | Buttboard Drywall Backer


Trim-Tex is the premier manufacturer of vinyl drywall beads & accessories. Drywall isn't finished without us.




www.trim-tex.com





Rocksplicer is another.


::\\ WILCO TOOLS //::



You can also make your own easily.








Invisible Drywall Butt Joints - Fine Homebuilding


Some drywall jobs require dead-flat ceilings -- no telltale bulges allowed where the ends of the drywall sheets abut one another. This article describes one solution to this problem. Learn how to install invisible drywall butt joints.




www.finehomebuilding.com





Or you can do it this way








Drywall Butt Joints Made Easy


No matter how well you plan your drywall installation, sometimes you just can't avoid having to tape a butt joint or two. Don't worry. Here are some tips




www.familyhandyman.com





Or you can do it this way
Prest-On Insta-Back Drywall Fastener 200 Pack 

Those are all backblocking.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

iamrfixit said:


> You'll probably still need to cut the sheet back to use a butt board, the joint needs to fall at least close to center of the stud cavity to allow room for the board.


Yeah, so if close to the stud, just add more stud blocking. If closer to the middle of the bay, use back blocking. If you want to use some sort of butt board, they are usually about 6" wide, so you need to have at least 3" of space from the stud. If less than 3", use one or two sistered stud blocks. If 3" or more, use backblocking.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

CaptTom said:


> If so, I'd think about making ALL butt joints between the studs, and using buttboard on all of them, just to get that recess. I'm a total amateur at mudding, so could use all the help I can get.


That would be totally fine. The only reason more experienced builders don't is that it's more material cost, and a little more time. Those pros are good and fast at butt joints (all joints obviously). However even for them, they sometimes run into a situation where the wall has to be perfectly flat. Butt joints cannot be perfectly flat - it's physically impossible. So they either frame the stud back a tad, or use back blocking of some sort.

But if you have the time and a few extra bucks, then backblocking will basically turn all your seams into tapered seams, which is nice.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

anyacolo said:


> could you still use these between studs WITH the factory tapered edge?
> 
> meaning, with two sheets of drywall that have not been cut?


You can do it, but there's no point to it. The problem with drywall is that only 2 sides are tapered (now that I think about it, I'm not really sure why that is.) The tapered edge is the long edge, and most people install drywall horizontally. There is no law that says you must do that (we could have a whole 'nother thread on that topic, but just accept it for now.) If you back blocked with tapered edges, you'd have to install the drywall vertically. That is OK, but why would you bother back blocking in that case? You already have a tapered edge.


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## anyacolo (Oct 3, 2016)

jeffnc said:


> 1. Really that was arbitrary. They can be 3" long. Just long enough to get your drywall screw into.
> 2. You put an extra little piece of stud at the spots you would normally screw in. So on a 4' piece of drywall, you're using 4 screws on that edge, so you need a block wherever a screw goes in. But usually it's just as easy to just put a 4' piece of stud in there - that way you don't have to do any cutting.
> 3. Yes of course.
> 4. Yes.
> ...




thanks for the info,

i think i will install horizontally, and use these.....









Trim-Tex | Drywall Solutions | Buttboard Drywall Backer


Trim-Tex is the premier manufacturer of vinyl drywall beads & accessories. Drywall isn't finished without us.




www.trim-tex.com





that way i can use full sheets and not worry about being on the studs


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## CaptTom (Dec 31, 2017)

jeffnc said:


> The problem with drywall is that only 2 sides are tapered (now that I think about it, I'm not really sure why that is.)


Hey, I actually know this one!

Have you ever been in a drywall factory? It's one of the most interesting places I've been. powdered gypsum off the ship, and rolls of paper, go in one end. Neatly stacked piles of cut wallboard come out the other. Along the way, there is a lot of noise, flames and big machines rolling the raw materials into two long, continuous strips of wallboard

Near the end is the "knife room." The two strips come down the conveyor belt. A huge knife cuts them to length. A set of arms fold them together, and places them on the ever-growing stack, ready for loading on a truck.

So, although the tapered edges are formed right into the sides along the way, the ends get cut with a knife. The conveyor moves pretty quickly. Making each piece individually would be much more time consuming and complicated.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

That's interesting. But I guess I meant, why don't they just do it differently? This makes it cheaper, but drywallers would probably pay more to avoid all those butt joints. End cost to the consumer for a drywall job might be the same.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Not every room needs a butt joint .... and it isn't that big of deal to finish.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

mark sr said:


> Not every room needs a butt joint .... and it isn't that big of deal to finish.


OK if you look at it that way, then why do they bother tapering joints to begin with?


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## ChuckTin (Nov 17, 2014)

I've a guestion I've never seen discussed.
If you must put dry wall up in a situation where you can't put tapered edge to edge - is it feasible to score and peel the paper off the adjoining edges to a tape's width (carefully) and use the mesh tape? I'd even be inclined to leave, then, a narrow gap, less than 1/8", between the sheets for the mud to key in.
Involved and time consuming and yet appealing to my adult OCD.

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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I wouldn't, the paper protects the gypsum from moisture. The moisture in the j/c could cause issues.


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## jeffnc (Apr 1, 2011)

ChuckTin said:


> I've a guestion I've never seen discussed.
> If you must put dry wall up in a situation where you can't put tapered edge to edge - is it feasible to score and peel the paper off the adjoining edges to a tape's width (carefully) and use the mesh tape?


You probably haven't seen it discussed because it's a really bad idea 

First of all, you shouldn't be using mesh tape to begin with, unless you're using setting compound. Unless you count FibaFuse (which is different from standard mesh tape, and I use it all the time.)

Second, drywall gets its strength primarily from the paper (believe it or not). Removing paper at the joint is probably the worst thing you could do, where strength is precisely what you want.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

An oscillating tool goes through drywall like a hot knife through butter. Could be worth the investment --- you will find a hundred different other uses for it. Buy a good one.


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## ChuckTin (Nov 17, 2014)

Interesting. I've only encountered the situation once'd and always wondered. No I not not do it, I pealed off couple pieces and redid the joints normally.

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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

SPS-1 said:


> An oscillating tool goes through drywall like a hot knife through butter. Could be worth the investment --- you will find a hundred different other uses for it. Buy a good one.


 Not discounting the value of quality tools but depending on how often/hard you use it a cheap one might be fine. I bought a Harbor Freight oscillating tool for one job. That was about 10 yrs ago. I've really been impressed with it and have used it a lot more than I ever thought I would.


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