# Insulating kneewalls vs roof in 1929 house



## Chokingdogs (Oct 27, 2012)

Post where you're located, that's going to be the first question you get asked...

My house has the same kind of insulation, and it has got to provide a max R value of say.....1.25 LOL 

I believe it's bowed on purpose, away from the roof sheathing, as mine is identical to yours in that respect and my house also has no soffit vents, only ridge and gable. That's going to change though, as my house does have eaves for them.

From what little ( a lot actually ) I've learned about proper insulation techniques and the general how and why of it, I'd have to say you have what's essentially an un-insulated space there on the second floor. My house is same way.....and it's scorching hot in the summer while being frigid in the winter.


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## BadHouse (Oct 30, 2012)

*In Lower Peninsula MI; cold winters, hot summers*

We've not seen any evidence of moisture problems, though that is probably due to no insulation.


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## BadHouse (Oct 30, 2012)

Sorry, the title of my response was my location, but that didn't come through. I'm in lower peninsula Michigan; cold winters, hot summers.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I'll get you started; 1. change out the outlet box for a modern (correctly sized) one,

2. Air seal all wiring/plumbing holes through any wood= plates/studs/joists/rafters with canned foam,

3. fire-stop any chases/chimneys; pp.19/40; http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/building_america/ba_airsealing_report.pdf

4. read these; 4.1 http://www.habitat.org/env/pdf/ceiling_and_attic.pdf

4.2 http://oikos.com/esb/51/sideattics.html

5. problem is, once you insulate/air seal (to stop air flow from below), the top vents want to exhaust heated air from below which would help prevent ice dams (rather than outdoor air); http://www.brainerdhomeinspection.com/roofve~1.pdf

You could go with a closed roof (unvented), though it would require foam board against the sheathing (major work)- next to map for your location; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/published-articles/pa-crash-course-in-roof-venting

Then ADA the drywall against air; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/air-barriers-airtight-drywall-approach/

Gary


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## mikeylikesit580 (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm looking forward to what people have to say, my house is the exact same way. Here is what Im thinking, tell me if I right or wrong. 

I used r19 in the knee walls, (I could go thicker that 3.5 inches because there is nothing behind it) and in between the trusses I plan on using r-13. I want something with a higher r-value, but I am not sure I have the depth to do that! 

Good luck with your project! (I have found that owens cornings has some very good documentation)


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Ohio, Zone 5; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_par002.htm

Ceiling insulation; R-38 Wall insulation; R-20; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002.htm

Either SPF the ceiling with added furring of wood, OR add foamboard with cavity insulation after furring; see the map if going "closed attic"; http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/published-articles/pa-crash-course-in-roof-venting
OR, furr the rafters, leave an airway as the last link mentioned, using f.b. for all.
Cover the f.g. at knee wall with f.b. or housewrap to prevent wind-washing of it.

Gary


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