# tape bubbling and wrinkling



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Was today an exceptionally high humidity day?

Or is this in a high humidity environment?


ED


----------



## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

It did not seem like the humidity was high. The mud seamed to be drying normal or even a little faster than normal. the wrinkling or bubbling seemed to start withhen 10 minute of bedding the tape.


----------



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

jaydevries said:


> In the past year I have finished some small drywall projects in total around 500 board and have had great success until today. Today I taped a 50 board job and started to see that over 80% of my tape joints are wrinkling and bubbling out ward instead of what i usually see which is the tape pulling tight to the wall when it drys. I am trying to figure out what is causing this. I am using the same techniques that was done on the other jobs. The wrinkles feel firm and for the most part do not bulge out higher than the tapered edge. So with this being said will I be OK to skim coat over them or will it cause issues in the future.


What type of mud? 
Could you have inadvertently put the crease in the drywall paper tape out?(That could make it bulge)
Could the initial mud bed have dried too much before you applied the tape? :detective:


----------



## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

Here is a picture of what it usually looks like after mud drys, the tape is pulled tight to board.


----------



## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

This is what I seen after mud dried. When I press on them with me finger or knife they are hard. It is not like the spot I would get occasionally under the tape where no mud was present. for taping and setting bead I was always told to use normal All purpose compound, since it has better adhesion.


----------



## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

As far as time between mud and setting tape, I would consider myself pretty efficient and that the mud did not dry before tape is bedded. As far as the compound goes I do add some water to it then mix it with drill and paddle, but I only use 20 to 32 Ounces per a bucket or box. Which has never been an issue before.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Did you mix with high speed to induce air bubbles, that's what it looks like to me. And about 1/2 as heavy for bedding/cover on first coat for me.... did you pre-fill larger gaps between sheets before the taping- looks like a pretty wide/deep joint between sheets in center? Your screw indents are not filled under the tape... looks like too thin a cover coat.

Gary


----------



## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

Possibility? I know that after you've embedded the mud and go back over the tape again while it's wet. You should start in the middle of the wall and go out in each direction from there. Or a crinkle can form like what is in your photos. Because the tape has moved in one spot and not another.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

20 - 30 oz of additional water seems like a lot to me, especially for tape coat. 
If your rolls or bubbles have mud under them, then I would say not enough of the excess mud is being scrapped out. And I agree with Paul about scraping from the center out.

I don't normally bother with mixing the tape coat pail, but even when I do mix and add a bit of water for finishing coats it's only about a 1/4 cup, maybe a 1/2 cup at most.


edit, looking back at the pics again, I think way too much water saturating the tape and causing it to swell.


----------



## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

A super taper usually takes 64 oz. per 3.5 gallons of mud to use and a banjo is about the same. I added that much water 20 to 32 oz. mostly to use a bead hopper any dryer the mud does not transfer to bead as you slide it thru. When I first notice the issue at lunch I added about a third of a new bucket and remixed to thicken, since I thought the same thing. All those pictures are from the same mix and as you can see the one picture pulled tape back tight. I also tried different rolls off tape too. I also know that board is tight together since I hung it. I did notice that it seemed liked the recessed or tapered edge had more of a radius on it so the front edge looked like there is a gap but when I tried to slide a knife thru to stud I couldn't. As for now i am chalking it up to a fluke until i get a good explanation. The one thing it is doing though is making me rethink about using fibafuse paperless tape or the self adhesive paper tape, but it is hard to change what you have seen and used for years to something different.
i also thought about moisture in the board but when hanging it was dry. I knw this because I was easily able to score front and break back paper by using the forward snap method. if this make since it was an old hanger that showed me this to speed up hanging.


----------



## shawnshady (Feb 13, 2017)

As long as there are no "air" bubbles and the creases don't extend beyond the face of the board, you'll be fine. I take it you didn't have this issue on butt joints? I personally never add water (I only use green top) and very rarely do I even mix it. On a side note your screws seem very close to the edge of the board, and to make bedding the tape easier apply a small amount of mud on top of the tape right where you start to wipe. It acts as a lubricant. I only do this on seams and butts


----------



## jaydevries (Jan 29, 2012)

thank you There were no but joints all board as stood up with metal studs.


----------

