# Drip edge bent?



## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

I've been posting several threads on my barn project and have been having some issues with the flashing. Fortunately, many of you on here have directed me in the right direction and I thank you for it. But to be honest, I'm getting frustrated with all these speed bumps in the road. Suppose I'm learning as I go. 

I put up one 10 footer last night and noticed the T flashing looked bent once it was on the roof. Not up and down, but outward away from the fascia. After remeasuring and fiddling with it, I accepted the fact that my roof edge may not have been square. 

When I put up the next 10 footer, the bend was that much more apparent. No way was my roof edge that out of line. The next piece of flashing made both have a "W" effect off the fascia. Does that make sense?

I looked at the rest of my T flashing and noticed it bowed in the middle. Is this normal for T flashing?

I couldn't take a wide pic of it, but placed my straight edge up against it and as you can see in the pic, the end of the flashing is flush but it slowly bows. By the time it's in the middle of the flashing, it's bowed by at least 1/4-1/2"!!










Thoughts?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Should be pulling it tight against the fascia so there is no gap.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

The picture doesn't do justice. It's bowed. The middle of the 10 footer is bowed by 1/2". 

If I push the flashing up against the fascia flush, it will slightly buckle on the roof because I'm pushing the bow inward. It will create ripples on the part that gets nailed. Something isn't right at all and I can't figure it out.


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

You'll be fine. Just push it up against the fascia until it is snug, and nail it off.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Davejss said:


> You'll be fine. Just push it up against the fascia until it is snug, and nail it off.


Despite pushing it up against the straight roof line, because of the bow, I can't get it totally flush. 

Maybe I can send another pic tomorrow. It's so bad I'm thinking of taking off the T flashing I installed and getting some apron or looking to see if this is a bad batch?


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## Davejss (May 14, 2012)

Run a chalk line across your roof from end to end. You'll probably find a little variation. Now place your drip edge on your roof and adjust it to the line so you have a perfectly straight line to start your roof. You may need to knock your fascia boards in or out a bit to keep things straight. Your metal drip edge probably has a bit of a bow in it too. But once your roof line is straight the drip edge should snug right up.


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Davejss said:


> Run a chalk line across your roof from end to end. You'll probably find a little variation. Now place your drip edge on your roof and adjust it to the line so you have a perfectly straight line to start your roof. You may need to knock your fascia boards in or out a bit to keep things straight. Your metal drip edge probably has a bit of a bow in it too. But once your roof line is straight the drip edge should snug right up.


That's just it. If I run a chalk line and have a perfect line to follow, th edrip edge won't follow it. 

Basically, if I lay the drip edge (all of them) on the concrete floor where I know is totally flat and straight, there is a 1/2" gap in the middle between the ground and the drip edge. So the drip edge bows upward. You can't lay it flat against anything. 

If I start at one end and forcefully press it up against the house roof line where I know it's flat, it will bend the piece of metal that gets nailed. By the time I'm half way down the 10 foot section, the ripple and bend in the drip edge will be so bad that the shingle won't lay flat on the roof!

Am I making any sense here - stating the drip edge is naturally bowed? I f I look down the drip edge before it goes on the house, should that piece of metal be perfectly straight with no obviuous sign of bowing?


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## PatChap (Nov 17, 2012)

Take it back, drive to every supplier until you find perfect drip edge.
Or, just nail it flat and snip out any bumped up spots. Nothings perfect.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Refer back to your original post 
*Which type of drip edge? 
*



reply #3. I wasn't just kidding. And in the tutorial video, I was waiting to see how the pro installed the gutter but he never did nor did a gutter contractor. That's seems strange being gutter is always recommended.


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## carpdad (Oct 11, 2010)

That should be a defect from the factory or during shipping. If flashing does not follow the straight chalk line (accept +/- 1/4"), you have defective material. 
The roofing should overhang the flashing, so the roofing should follow its own chalk line, and that is what you will see at the end.. Also the gutter will hide the flashing.
You said the facia "should" be straight. Check it with a string.


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## roofermann (Nov 18, 2013)

Daugela said:


> The picture doesn't do justice. It's bowed. The middle of the 10 footer is bowed by 1/2".
> 
> If I push the flashing up against the fascia flush, it will slightly buckle on the roof because I'm pushing the bow inward. It will create ripples on the part that gets nailed. Something isn't right at all and I can't figure it out.


Crap drip edge. We haven't used galvi drip in years.:thumbsup:


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## Daugela (May 3, 2013)

Just an update. Returned the stuff to HD and bought another batch. TOTALLY straight by the naked eye. No bow whatsoever. It had to be a bad batch or something.


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