# Between these 2 Miter Saws?



## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I have the Hitachi and like it pretty good, for a DIYer it will do good but for heavy use it won't hold up. I am not a Ryobi fan. JMHO


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## Mstrlucky74 (Jan 19, 2013)

Ok I bought the Hitachi... Hope I made a good choice ... I also bought the Kreg jig for crown molding. Two questions 

1. Can I use the blade that came with the saw for crown ?
2. Does someone have a link for an article to help guide me with this crown install I'm attempting? Thanks


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

hitachit is definitely a better product, one thing to consider with only having a 10" saw is that you will be very very limited to what size crown you can cut by using the upside down and backwards method.

i had that saw 7 years ago and realized very quickly that i would have to be finishing my cuts with a hand saw when doing 5" crown because by standing hte crown up the saw cant go all the way down through the material


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## Mstrlucky74 (Jan 19, 2013)

woodworkbykirk said:


> hitachit is definitely a better product, one thing to consider with only having a 10" saw is that you will be very very limited to what size crown you can cut by using the upside down and backwards method.
> 
> i had that saw 7 years ago and realized very quickly that i would have to be finishing my cuts with a hand saw when doing 5" crown because by standing hte crown up the saw cant go all the way down through the material


I do but don't understand what you mean/ Why will a 10" limit you? Don't you lay the crown flat when cutting? I can't afford the 12" so that sucks.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Crown is held up side down at the angle it's going to be sitting on the wall.
I tried that Keg miter tool and did not like it. This one is a whole lot easier, I did not have to do anymore then look at the pictures right on the tool to figure out how to use it.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bench-Dog-15-1-2-in-x-6-in-Crown-Cut-Molding-Cutting-Jig-10-027/202738579
Bought a 10" one time and brought it back the same day and traded it for a 12".
It would not even cut laminate flooring, 2 X 8's, stair treads in one pass.
Even a 10 slider would have been better then a 10 saw.
A 10" works fine for things like casing, baseboard, 1/4 rd. cove moulding.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

For ceiling mold up to or a little larger than 4 inches this saw will do the job, as Mstrlucky said he isn't installing trim for a living, he is DIYing his home. 

You can cut the ceiling mold laying flat, but someone else will have to tell you how, I never cut it like that. I don't know how to use the jig Joe is talking about either. I always cut it the old fashion way, upside down and backwards.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I suck at cutting crown, main reason I do not do it often enough to get good at it.
Once I bought that tools I did a whole house and the only issue I had was I keep cutting it to long because I did not trust myself.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

Mstrlucky74 said:


> I do but don't understand what you mean/ Why will a 10" limit you? Don't you lay the crown flat when cutting? I can't afford the 12" so that sucks.


 the saw will limit you to cutting small to medium size crown because it doesnt have hte vertical cut capacity to cut a 6" Crown or larger if your cutting it upside down and backwards.. if your cutting hte crown on the flat you have to have a dual compound mitre saw as the saw bevels both left and right


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## mcnic (Feb 16, 2014)

Nobody should ever by Ryobi, waste of money. The Hitachi is much better.I have a Makita and its nothing special. I've used all of these and the Dewalt is the best I've used.


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

cutting upside down is it for a standard non compound drop saw. For cutting crown upside down use stops to hold it while you cut or mark the base of the sawe with a sharpie ( preferred) and keep your eye on the mark while making cuts. for inside corners while the crown is nested upside down on the saw the blade should come back into the cut and for outside corners the blade should go out past the cut.
so when you are finished with the cut for an inside corner you will see the angle going back into the piece of trim and for the outside corner the angle will be going away from the trim.

edit... to make the marks with the sharpie onto saw base nest the crown upside down and turn the base of the saw to 45 degrees both left and right, mark across the edge of crown onto base at each saw setting- right 45-left 45 and square, three settings. so when you flip to each setting the line will be there to set your crown to and keep an eye on the line as you make the cut but watch the blade as well . I hold the crown at the edge of the saw where the saw base ends and with my palm on the face of crown somewhat I use minor finger adjustments on the back of while cutting, you kind of want to flex press the crown toward the vertical base as you cut, the tighter the crown stays while cutting the better which might be better for stops to be used. you do not want fingers anywhere near the spinning blade.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

something not mentioned is that there are two different styles of crown.. 45 degree crown and 52 degree crown this means is the difference in how much of the crown is along the wall.. 45 degree crown is split evenly between how it lies on the wall and ceiling.. 52 degree crown llies more on the wall.. because of this your cut angles will also change


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Sorry guys but I really like my kreg jig it also has pictures on it. Again I don't do enough to be proficient at it and the jig helps a lot. You really don't need stops with it you set the spring angle, it shows you how, then just put the crown in the jig the way it tells you.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> Sorry guys but I really like my kreg jig it also has pictures on it. Again I don't do enough to be proficient at it and the jig helps a lot. You really don't need stops with it you set the spring angle, it shows you how, then just put the crown in the jig the way it tells you.


Is that jig like the one Joe has? If not can you post a link to it? I like learning new stuff.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...HLyqJWQa5NyCj0tYmJe1l77g&bvm=bv.61535280,d.aW
Jim I hope this works. The video is pretty good.


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## Mstrlucky74 (Jan 19, 2013)

ToolSeeker said:


> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CEYQFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kregtool.com%2FCrownPro-Prodview.html&ei=7wQCU5yMFobOyAGRiYHwCg&usg=AFQjCNH2GCHLyqJWQa5NyCj0tYmJe1l77g&bvm=bv.61535280,d.aW Jim I hope this works. The video is pretty good.


That's the one I bought but now I'm thinking of returning for the on Joe has.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

ToolSeeker said:


> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...HLyqJWQa5NyCj0tYmJe1l77g&bvm=bv.61535280,d.aW
> Jim I hope this works. The video is pretty good.


That one is a little like the one Joe has. There is nothing wrong with using a jig like that, if it makes the job easier for a person, that is what they should do. As many thousand feet of ceiling mold I ran, I would get mixed up when I had my mind somewhere other than on cutting the molding.

One place that always drove me nuts was when putting 1/4 round, not shoe mold, on the ceiling on a porch, for some reason I would make a lot of the cuts wrong, there was no up or down place, it was all the same not like ceiling mold, which usually one side is thick and the other thin. LOL

One thing I did when running ceiling mold, and I didn't have a cut man, is make the measurements, cut the pieces and glue and pin them together on a table I made out of 3/4 plywood on a set of horses, it sure saved a lot of climbing up and down a ladder.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Something that has helped me with crown is take 2 small pieces mitered for the inside corner and tack then together. Make this a perfect fit for the corner hold it up in the corner and take a pencil and mark the bottom use this on all 4 corners using the same pieces. then snap a line between the marks. This will show all the way around where the bottom of the crown should be. This way you don't have to worry about your piece twisting


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## hand drive (Apr 21, 2012)

ToolSeeker said:


> Something that has helped me with crown is take 2 small pieces mitered for the inside corner and tack then together. Make this a perfect fit for the corner hold it up in the corner and take a pencil and mark the bottom use this on all 4 corners using the same pieces. then snap a line between the marks. This will show all the way around where the bottom of the crown should be. This way you don't have to worry about your piece twisting



I go half way each time as opposed to popping the line across the entire room. this helps if the middle is high or low and keeps the crown the same distance from ceiling everywhere. mostly though I just measure down a few spots and make a tiny hash mark to follow. chalk lines can drop to much chalk in finished houses.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

the other issue with chalking a line from corner to corner is if the ceiling isnt perfectly flat it can cause your pieces to sit down too lown and you will have a wicked twist in it for it to meet the ceiling or a nasty gap.. for this reason i prefer cutting blocks that match where the crown will lie on the wall and ceiling. ive had far greater success with this method


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

If you have a sag in the ceiling, popping a line and keeping the bottom of the trim on that line and roll the top out will make the ceiling look straight. It is easier to see a sag than to see the twist in the ceiling mold. I know that it is sad that some new construction is like that but it is. I wanted my trim to look good so that is the decision I made so it would. And yes I had to plane some of the back off at the top for a close fit. I hated doing that but that is the way it was.


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## bote110 (Oct 7, 2012)

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...&mid=96B09434464B931ED22996B09434464B931ED229

You can cut flat.


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