# How to join 1/8" beadboard?



## DIYgms (May 23, 2008)

I noticed Lowe's carries 1/8" beadboard in 4X8 hardboard material. Has anyone worked with this stuff? If so, how do you join the seams on this. I'm concerned that a butt joint will look bad.

All responses appreciated.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Because it isn't true beadboard, your butt joints will show somewhat. If you're painting it, some caulk will hide it nicely.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

Glue the board to the walls. Break the seams over studs. Use an 18g brad nailer, and attempt to hide the nail placement. As suggested, use caulking along the seams. Prime and paint. If done right, it can be made to look good on more cost-effective projects. 
Example:


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## DIYgms (May 23, 2008)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the confirmation and tips. If the pic you shared is using the 1/8" material you wouldn't know it. Nice Work. :thumbsup:

I'm only doing a small bath - so I'll probably choose to use the standard beadboard.


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## DIYgms (May 23, 2008)

*Thanks...*

Caulk cures a lot of ills. If you've done this would you recommend it over using the standard beadboard? The room is small - I just don't want to spend the extra $ if no difference...


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## jan (Aug 11, 2006)

Lowes also carries Plybead by Georgia Pacific. It's thin plywood embossed to look like bead board. It has a ship lap edge so there isn't a butted seam to deal with. It goes up with panel adhesive and finish nails. make sure the joints fall on a stud.


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## AtlanticWBConst. (May 12, 2006)

DIYgms said:


> Caulk cures a lot of ills. If you've done this would you recommend it over using the standard beadboard? The room is small - I just don't want to spend the extra $ if no difference...


If you installed it all properly, and do the surrounding trim work right, it can look nice. 
The pic. I showed was for a client that wanted to do the work on a smaller budget....so, we used the 1/8" panels. We also used 5-1/2" speed base (baseboard) to dress it up a little. 

Here's the "before", and some "durings" of the same area (in the last pic. you can vaugely see the seams of the panel bead board before painting):


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## DIYgms (May 23, 2008)

*Thanks*

:thumbsup: This looks great. After all the advice - I decided to go with the primed 1/8" pannels so I can cover any joint issues and then paint. Appreciate all the help - If it turns out as good as this I'll be pleased.


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## jchri66 (May 27, 2008)

I have used the product from Lowes and didn't have any problems with it. Measure how high you want it and have Lowes cut it for you at the store with their huge table saw. The end edges notch together so piecing them together is normal.


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## RickDel (May 9, 2009)

When doing beadboard like this, is the window trim over the beadboard or is it butted up to the edge of the casing and caulked?

Thanks


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Butted and caulked with wainscot, on the top and sides, pull the piece under the window and replace afterwords. If you are going floor to ceiling with the beadboard, it would be worth pulling and replacing all of the casing (had a customer who ran it full in a small powder room). In either case, I pull and replace the baseboard to run the beadboard behind. And some of the panel beadboard has slightly wider "groove" edge on one side than the other. You butt the wide to the narrow (or vice-versa) to make the groove the same width as the others on the panel....


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## RickDel (May 9, 2009)

bjbatlanta, thanks for the reply. That's what I was thinking too but wanted to be sure. 

Should I leave a small 1/8th gap on the sides for expansion? 

Also, if I use a larger chair rail, designed for wainscoting and with a rabbet, can I just nail it at the top and bottom (where it's covered by the chair rail and baseboard)? 

Thanks


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

AtlanticWB, I noticed you had small areas filled with unfaced OCF in between your faced sections. I am assuming this is due to the narrowness of the spaces. Do you then cover these areas with some sort of facing or is it OK to leave them unfaced?


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

RickDel, I'd just measure "pretty tight". I don't think expansion/contraction will be a big deal with the panels, unless it's a non-climate-controlled situation. The sawblade width and everything else being a bit out of square (unless you've got the only "perfect house" we're all looking for) will leave enough room.... I use a liberal amount of liquid nails (or similar) on the drywall where the studs are, stick the panel to the drywall, nail top and bottom AND in the groove every 16" into the studs with a brad nailer. You'll need to plan for that. Find your studs beforehand. Just take a hammer and nail and make sure you can lay-out for all joints to break on a stud and there will be a groove that "corresponds" with 16" centers where you can nail the middle of the board. The brads are hardly noticeable in the groove. And any small finish nail (4d or even smaller) can be "hand nailed" too. I'm just used to using nail guns....


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## RickDel (May 9, 2009)

Got it... Thanks!!


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