# crack in the ceiling is spreading and afraid



## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

Its a total waste of time and money if the leak isn't targeted and fixed.It would be sad to lead you through the process only to have your work in vain.The correct terminology for your ceiling is vaulted.I understand that money is tight.If you have a stomped or textured ceiling the first time DIY'r might have a problem cutting the piece out,scraping,taping then finishing then texturing.It would be a shame to go through all that effort for nothing.This site is full of interior guru's that could walk a sinner out of hell..(so to speak) My first order of business would be to pin point (FOR SURE)your leak. Like I said plenty of interior wizards at your service.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

*guru*

how funny is that, good call. you are so right about this site being awesome, i was able to put my wood floor in with the help from you guys back to the roof though, hmmm. i know that i need to have the roof reshingled and done because I have probably three areas where i can see water spots that aren't even close to each other. I was thinking that reroofing? would take care of those problems. the inside crack problem definately has a board or something behind that splitting drywall that needs fixed/replaced. i was hoping to open it up from the inside and fixing that part first rather than have the roofer do it from the outside. i imagine that i am getting ahead of myself with re-doing the ceiling until the roof is redone. ....except for that one area? i so want to tear it down, even just to see in there.,,,,demo trouble


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

brenda o said:


> how funny is that, good call. you are so right about this site being awesome, i was able to put my wood floor in with the help from you guys i so want to tear it down, even just to see in there.,,,,demo trouble


Another problem with just rippin' r down is if its not put back then you and your family are breathing those harmful toxins in.I have never been able to properly fix a roof structure problem "with" the roof still on.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

*oh wow , c i did not know that*

toxins..... i will leave it alone until i have more info, thanks


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

Yep all kinds of little nasties just waiting to invade your respratory system.​


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

Before I ripped it down, I would be tempted to cut a little peeky hole into the problem area to see what's going behind it and try to get a grasp on the scope of repair. 

It sounds like your more immediate need it to alleviate the ice buildup along your roof edges. This can be easily accomplished by raking the snow off the roof with a roof rake so it doesn't build up to the point where it is backing water up under the shingles. This winter has been a particular bad one for snow and ice buildup coupled with prolonged freeze and thaw cycles at least here in upstate NY. 

I have climbed up onto a ladder and broken up ice dams with a hammer and star drill but do not reccommend it. Extreme caution must be used to prevent damage to the roof. Caution in using a roof rake is important as well. Be sure to avoud power lines and rake lightly and carfully to avoid roof damage. 

The trouble with mobile home roofs is that they shingle them to give them a stick-built house look but they usually do not have an adaquate pitch for a shingled roof. Low slope roofing should be used instead. When you go to replace the roof. they will probably reccommend appropriate roofing and adaquate ice and water shield.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

*and that*

and that is what happened. In addition to that crack, I had water coming into the bathroom and closet- both on the same wall. I had some of the ice removed, enough to stop the leak. I contacted my insurance company. I would like to have them cover the cost of the repairs to the flooring and the area the water came in at. Do you think they will cover the cost of repairing the roof? I want to do the whole roof and would be happy with any funds they would cover. Anyone have experience in this area? Of what they will cover? I do have water damage coverage so she said the claim would be submitted. I just havent heard anything yet and would like a heads up on what I should be saying. I don't know if walls are an issue or not. And, I am thinking of going with the steel roof in place of the shingles that are on it now. Common sense tells me do the roof first but is there any part of the interior I could be working on until warm weather arrives? And.. mobile home is 16 by 76. Any idea of very rough estimate for steel roof? Thanks so much.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

and what is ice/water shield?


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

one more question with the cracked ceiling. I have popcorn ceiling UCK.... and I am wondering about replacing the drywall, obviously where the crack is but am I better off replacing the drywall throughout for all new start., or should I just replace drywall sheets in the areas where there is cracking, water spot, ect. I would like to use that "light" version of the drywall so once popcorn is removed, re-mud all after new drywall is up, or easier to replace all and start over? any idea on work time, costs, ect? Thanks again


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

brenda o said:


> I contacted my insurance company. I would like to have them cover the cost of the repairs to the flooring and the area the water came in at. Do you think they will cover the cost of repairing the roof? I want to do the whole roof and would be happy with any funds they would cover. Anyone have experience in this area? Of what they will cover? I do have water damage coverage so she said the claim would be submitted.


I would be leary of filing a claim on just your interior.The reason I say that is many variables come into play.

*1.)How much is your deductible?*
*2.)What year was your mobile home manufactured?*
*3.)How much damage was caused?*
*4.)Have you had any other claims recently?*
*5.)Have you had a legitimate roofer look at your roof?*
*6.)Is your roofer either capable or willing to help you with your claim?*
*7.)Do you have a replacement cost policy?* *RCV*
*8.)Do you have an ACV policy*(Actual Cash Value) *No REC DEP*
*9.)Insurance companies to my knowledge won't pay for roof aging.*

In my opinion and experience insurance companies really don't pay enough for leaks to justify a claim on interior alone,unless the damage is substantial and or the roof is replaced as well.From my experience if your home is older and your roof is the same then typically the insurance company will depreciate it quite a bit.Is it possible for you to handle repairs out of pocket? The reason I ask is if your insurance company finds no damage to your roof and pays for resealing or a repair and they give you $1500 and your deductible is $1000 then you are left with $500 to do the repairs.I would suggest having a qualified professional roofing contractor assist you in this endeavor.You need one thats reputable and knowledgeable with the insurance aspect pertaining to roofing.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

Roofmaster417 said:


> I would be leary of filing a claim on just your interior.The reason I say that is many variables come into play.
> 
> *1.)How much is your deductible?*
> *2.)What year was your mobile home manufactured?*
> ...


The only reason I would be leary is if you had to make another claim in the near future.It is your choice overall.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

thanks so much! i will think about all this.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

well the roofer has been out to see what specifically is going on. there may be a cracked or broken rafter and fear that a part of the exterior wall has collapsed, all due to ice damming. estimated repairs to the tune of 11,000 and the insurance adjuster has been here as well, waiting to see his proposal. obviously, a huge endevour, way beyond a DYI, thanks for the professional advise.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

brenda o said:


> well the roofer has been out to see what specifically is going on. there may be a cracked or broken rafter and fear that a part of the exterior wall has collapsed, all due to ice damming. estimated repairs to the tune of 11,000 and the insurance adjuster has been here as well, waiting to see his proposal. obviously, a huge endevour, way beyond a DYI, thanks for the professional advise.


Cool, I always recommend having a contractor present during roof inspections,or having one inspect prior.Good luck.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

i have a question about the construction of the roof. Right now the vaulted roof is made up of 7/16 sheets of whatever they use and i am also told its 2x4 framing. If i went with more than 1/2 in sheeting, say 5/8, am i going to be in trouble structurally? I am thinking of the additional weight being a problem even though I would like to upgrade. The contractor seems to think its all good but I'm not so sure. WOuld like your thoughts? I haven't heard back from the insurance company yet to see what will be covered. My biggest concern is that they are looking at one section as a previous problem that wasn't addressed in a timely manner. The part were the wall is "buckled" or "popped out. They say it is in pictures from 2008 as the same way as it is today so why the urgency now is the feeling I'm getting from them. Have I made a big mistake? Regardless, there are more issues than that one area but i am concerned now....


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

I roofed a double wide a couple of weeks ago.The trusses were some type of engineered type.They were a "2x2" spanning about13' or so.It seemed the spacing to center on the "2x2" was 12"-14".I replaced some decking and it also was 7/16" O.S.B.Those trailers are manufactured to a certain spec.A Structural test was performed in the design then the manufacturing of your home.A double wide has different spec's for load bearing than a house on a foundation.It is your home but I would consult an engineer before I replaced all the plywood with something other than the manufacture installed materials.


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## Roofmaster417 (Jun 9, 2010)

If you think about it,you are wanting to add some sturdy thicker structure above your head,but want to leave the support for the roof the same.I feel if you look at it that way you might have your answer.


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

*further into project*

ok, been a couple months and I am at the point that the insurance will cover some costs because it was due to the ice damming and water so i am moving forward with a "new" roof. Contractor is starting this week, if we can get a couple days good weather, western ny is infamous for cold, wet stuff this time of year. anyway, as you are aware, this is a mobile home 16x76, gabled roof. the rafters look like 2x2's then the sheets of wood on top of them are 7/16, i am told, of pressed board. i am having a "tear off" done-ok...1. does this mean only shingles or does it mean those sheets of pressed board as well? the reason i am asking is because i thought the sheets were getting "tore off" and 5/8 plywood is going to be used then a rubber thing, then 40 yr shingles. he talkes about the ice and water shield which is going to be added and some other stuff that sounds good, considering the area i live in... ridge vents extended maybe. i don't know off hand. \\ ...ok 2. if the original pressed board sheets are covered with the rubber stuff,(not sure if its a certain amount of feet up from the edges or the whole thing) and the 5/8 in plywood, is this standard practice? i thought the 5/8 was replacing the 7/16 pressed board that is up there. And it does need replaced, it has dips and valleys and is "squishy in spots. leads me to 3... what is the code? standard weight that should be on the roof. i don't want a bunch of extra weight on it well knowing that winter will be here again. believe me, i am right in a snow belt area, go 10 miles up the road and out of it but the lake effect snow is "evil". then, #4. how do we add the insulation if the pressed board is not lifted? i do have some pics and i will try to figure out how to attach them. but thinking i should get going with these questions. one other is that i was initially quoted with the 5/8 board...but i really think it was after tearing off the 7/16th and now the talk is to not do that part... i'm just wondering.. which way is better and, of course, which way is less work/expense. i do want to say that i trust this contractor and him and his family have been doing this for years. but i just want more info, second opinion on things. i don't know if he is really familiar with the mobile home stuff as much. thanks again, so much help here with all the "projects" i have done.:thumbup:


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

*wow*

wow i just went through all that and then scrolled up..... most answers are there...... not only do i have to be concerned with going over the OSB (tee hee) i have to ask about the 5/8th as well....just "wow" see, what would i do....without you....


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

i am freaking out.... no way is that pressed board staying on there... no way......and i even have to question the 5/8. i wouldn't be afraid of 1/2 in as bad, that is pretty close to 7/16.... but definatley not both. and is there a way to "beef up the supports" i thought of sistering the trusses but that doesn't make sense, it would have to come from below.....


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## brenda o (Sep 25, 2009)

posting an update.... insurance claim was filed and the claim approved. The contractor is working with me and i am getting my roof replaced as well as interior work. as it turns out the rafter was not broken but the drywall was. i do have a roofing question now though. like i said this is a manufactured home ( not mobile home after some 1990 something), it has the "vaulted" ceilings/roof. they are tearing off to the decking and putting new decking on top of existing. was told that you can't take off the original decking or the framing would fall apart or something. there were valleys in the old and obviously the water damage but they are covering this. they are adding the ice/water shield to cover the whole thing making sure the soffats and ridge venting is good. i was told this shield is also considered a "rubber roofing" but i don't know. are there different brands of this with "rubber' in it? and also i'm wondering about vents to hot water tank and furnace lining up right with the added height of the roof even though it is small. ideas?


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