# Raise attic floor over wires with 2x2s?



## gunner666 (Jul 16, 2014)

ok so imagine an attic with about 15 wires running perpendicular to the joists. I want to put plywood flooring in. The wires are basically through the center of the attic - if they were on the edge, I would just leave them and not put plywood at the edge. I know most people with wires etc like this will build a 2x6 (and sometimes 2x4) perpendicular frame over the joists and then put the plywood on that. Is there any reason I can't just raise up the joists by screwing 2x2s on top of them along the whole length except where there's wires? (I would bunch the wires up tight together to minimize the spaces with wires and thus without 2x2s). 




Whole reason is that this would be much faster than building a perpendicular box (although that's not so hard but it could run into issues with the rim joists meeting obstacles etc. It's less cost and materials to use 2x2s. The head room is a lot more if raised up only 1.5" with a 2x2 vs raised up 5.5" with 2x6s (or 3.5" raised up if using 2x4s but I don't realty trust the strength of a 2x4 joists even though it technically can span such a small space over existing joists 24" OC but I would rather just screw 2x2s over the existing joists and put the plywood over that. The wires might not have a lot of slack. If you build a perpendicular 2x6 frame over the existing joists, you need slack in the wires so they can weave under the new joists. 

I mean, I don't really see why not, it's like saying you can't because raking/ sideways movement would actually break the 2x2s off of the joists which is not going to happen. But I'm baffled why no ones else does this instead of a 2x6 perpendicular frame. 

I made a picture, it's not the actual attic, there is more than just one wire. but the red lines are how most people build the new frame over the wires, and the blue lines are 2x2s screwed on top of the joists. 
The two pictures without the red and blue lines are what I don't want to do.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

the 2 x 2 sounds good, just mark where the wires are so no nails or screws go into them..if you really want them not to move, use some adhesive as you put them in along with screws..


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

2x2's or 2x4's laid on their side should work. 2x2's are a little weak, but I doubt you're going to be jumping around up there. I see no reason to use so much lumber or to give up so much space. Unless you feel like cutting each cable and putting a junction box so you could drill through each joist. That's probably not worth it and could cause more issues later on if done incorrectly.


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

Depending upon your climate, adding 2x6's is a way of getting the required depth for code level insulation. The resulting depth you are proposing will probably be insufficient to get the insulation you need. In addition, covering the attic floor with plywood will create a condensation layer with a cold attic and moisture moving up through the ceiling below. 

Will the attic continue to be ventilated to the outside and not heated?

Bud


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

ShtRnsdownhill said:


> the 2 x 2 sounds good, just mark where the wires are so no nails or screws go into them..if you really want them not to move, use some adhesive as you put them in along with screws..


Marking is not good enough. You need nail plates to block screws and nails from hitting the wires.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Wait, you're just adding the 2x2 on top of each joist running parallel? I was picturing them perpendicular. So you'll just leave a space for each wire between 2x2's? Then you could use a nail plate.


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## TimPa (Aug 15, 2010)

sounds like you are building what might be called a raceway for the wires. I would split the wires up so they are not all running in one void, into maybe 2 or 3. I would also use 2x4's (instead of 2x2's) on edge, to give more space around the wires to avoid nails and screws as mentioned.

and you will need nail plates on the ends as mentioned


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## modernartisan (Feb 2, 2016)

What are the dimensions of your existing Ceiling joists, and how long is the span between supports below them. Most ceilings are not designed to handle a live load. It is important to determine if your ceiling will support all the weight you are planning to add.


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## gunner666 (Jul 16, 2014)

someone mentioned to predrill the 2x2s to avoid splitting which I will do. 

With fresh wet)exterior pressure treated lumber, it probably won't split, but this kiln dried interior wood usually splits, especially with the thinner 2x2s (which are extra dry because they sit in the store unbought for a while, some are so bowed from drying they are like corkscrews. 

I wasn't planning to put nail plates in. I have done this a million times in basements drywalling over wires and never hit one. But In case the homeowner needs to add more screws years form now if it's creaking or if they remove a board(s) to run new wires, they might put the screws back and hit a wire. They do have some pretty long nail plates but if I have to custom cut them from flat plate metal I guess I have to. 

I could use flat plates or hurricane ties to secure the 2x2s to the joists (sort of like adhesive) but I think that's overkill. 

It's just for storage, not a living space. Here are actual photos of it. Solid 2x8s 16 on center so that's all good for support, it's just like a second floor frame for a bedroom, it will hold but I'll let them know not to put thousands of pounds on it. 

That 2x4 brace going perpendicular through the center of the attic will stay since it's for bracing (although all the decking will be bracing but I just don't want to remove that long 2x4 and add in flush blocking/bridging. Usually that 2x4 is on the flat and not as much of a nuisance but I don't want to go banging on it with a nail puller to put it on the flat (or use a nail gun for anything) because I don't want to possibly crack the drywall spackle in the ceiling under it. 

One photo shows a step down, If those are 2x8s, then I'll raise them up a little more, possibly only building a perpendicular box over that area or seeing if they can live with a step down, but if they are 2x4s, they I won't do that area but this is NJ, not the south, and usually in this area all attics can support stuff. Mine is only 2x6s with like a 15' span 16on center and holds a ton of stuff stored. 

There's no insulation as you can see but I don't really want to get into that if they don't mention it but I know rafters are sort of controversial to insulate or not (with rigid foam) but I think maybe I should throw some cheap R12 fiberglass in the joist bays. Faced or unfaced? I have to research that but pretty much every attic is insulated with faced r12 fiberglass in the joist bays, paper side down.


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

NJ with so much missing insulation? That's not good. 

Who are you doing this for? Not your home?


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## mikegp (Jul 17, 2011)

Duplicate post


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## Mingledtrash (Nov 27, 2015)

gunner666 said:


> if they are 2x4s, they I won't do that area but this is NJ, not the south, and usually in this area all attics can support stuff. Mine is only 2x6s with like a 15' span 16on center and holds a ton of stuff stored.


15' 16" on center is well over span for 2x6 for storage. just because you put a "ton" of stuff up in your attic does not mean its safe or will not cause damage over time.

just because you have 2x8 in the attic does not mean you are safe to store stuff either. You need to check the spans and loading capabilities before you throw sheathing on it. 

usually if there is 2x8 in the attic and its not already sheathed its because they needed that 2x8 just for the load of the attic without storage.


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