# Painting an aluminum storm door



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Spray the door.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

If I spray it do I have to prime it?

Also, since the door opens onto my roof deck, I thought spraying will be too messy. I do not plan to remove the door from its hinges. The door leads from my kitchen to the roof deck.



Ron6519 said:


> Spray the door.


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

stripedbass said:


> If I spray it do I have to prime it?
> 
> Also, since the door opens onto my roof deck, I thought spraying will be too messy. I do not plan to remove the door from its hinges. The door leads from my kitchen to the roof deck.


The procedural steps are the same no matter the painting method. Painting the door in place will be an issue if you spray. There will be a lot of masking. How do you expect to paint the glass and screen panels?
The problem with brushing is the marks left on the door.
It's your door, paint it the way you want.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

stripedbass said:


> As I plan out my kitchen ceiling paint dilemma (as you saw on my other thread), I realize that I have another paint situation.
> 
> I have an old aluminum storm door which I've decided I'm going to paint since it's still in good condition. It just hasn't been cleaned for very many years.
> 
> ...


Your method will be just fine, no reason at all to spray it


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Aluminum is one of the easiest substrates to paint. I often use a 4 inch Whizz roller or a mohair roller to paint them. If cleaned up properly, no primer is needed. Two coats of paint and you're done. RustOleum is a great paint selection for an aluminum door.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Thanks, Gymschu,

And you've never heard of having to use a zinc chromate primer if one is painting aluminum?

Yes, I plan on using a roller.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Striped, I've heard of it, but I've never used it on aluminum of any kind. I guess if you have any concerns about the topcoats bonding, well, it may be a good idea to apply the primer for extra security.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Since you used steel wool make sure to wipe the door down really well any little bits of the steel wool will rust under the latex primer. And I would also brush and roll.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

I decided to use another primer. Found this at my local Advanced Auto Parts (after endless googling): 

http://www.duplicolor.com/product/self-etching-primer

Also, I'm going to do one last washing of the door before painting the primer. I'll use a mixture of one part white vinegar and 5 parts water. From my googling, this washing suggestion kept coming up for how to prep metal for painting.


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## dfphoto (Jan 18, 2011)

Hi I just sprayed my GF's metal window frame (sorry not sure if it's aluminum) but we used stix primer benjamin moore it definitely is very sticky vs other primers and then it went on very smooth I use a flexio 590 with the smooth cup/tip on 3.5-4 setting just about full output. (fyi) sprayed on smooth and dryed pretty quickly although it has a 24 hour dry time (fully). I did read online youtube you can use an auto spray can I also masked with 12" paper/3/4" tape for the overspray.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

Gymschu said:


> Aluminum is one of the easiest substrates to paint. I often use a 4 inch Whizz roller or a mohair roller to paint them. If cleaned up properly, no primer is needed. Two coats of paint and you're done. RustOleum is a great paint selection for an aluminum door.


are you talking rustoleum enamel ?

how well do you think a darkish red would hold up ? southern facing, but lots of shade.


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## dfphoto (Jan 18, 2011)

Yes that would work, also automotive paint would work, and I belive krylon makes something that would work but spraying is bit tough, too far away then it will have a pebble finish too much time or too close it will run, I learned on the flexio and the air sprayer I have that you really need a light just off the gun angle and you spray at a speed that shows coverage but you will see the spray "pebbles" then it will be solid then you move down or sideways. If you do this and never have used a spray I would practice on a pvc pipe or something like that also, wait a good amount of time because I have also screwed up by not waiting long enough and the paint was not really dry enough to take another coat which made the top sticky for a longtime and screwed up the finish.

it's not as hard as I make it out but I stress out ( I used to re coat bathtubs) and I hated it because I would sweat so much and never could use the gun correctly but now I feel very confident.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

If your going to use rattle cans go to the box store and get the gun that screws on the can. It's only a couple bucks but it gives you better control.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Fix'n it said:


> are you talking rustoleum enamel ?
> 
> how well do you think a darkish red would hold up ? southern facing, but lots of shade.


Rustoleum in a quart-sized can. I NEVER use rattle cans on anything with exterior exposure.........it just won't hold up to the elements.


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## dfphoto (Jan 18, 2011)

BTW I would try to make a plastic paint tent the finish will be ruined with dust or dirt particles if you shoot it outside. I don't know about the aerosol can's not lasting probably right but I think that's why the one person recommened auto paint. Again, I'm not an expert at painting in anyway.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Called Dupli-Color technical support today. Wanted to know whether their primer for aluminum (http://www.duplicolor.com/product/self-etching-primer) came in white which will be the color of my final coat on the storm door. 

Unfortunately, it only comes in green, they told me. They suggested that after I put on the primer, I put on another primer (but in white) and that this will produce a better result. They suggested this one as a second primer:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/duplicolor-sandable-primer-white-12-oz.-aerosol-dap1689/7140819-P

I don't know about putting on a second primer. I may just go on to the Rust-Oleum white.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

You are making this a lot harder than it needs to be. Rattle cans are hard to control, it takes many coats to get a good finish, you will need to mask surrounding areas really well. If you want a perfect finish remove the door and spray it with a paint sprayer (even a Wagner would be better than the rattle cans.) If you want a good job remove it, and brush on Sherwin ASE or Super Paint.


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## Fix'n it (Mar 12, 2012)

i am not looking for a great finish, it wouldn't match the house :laughing: :huh:
but i did once paint a metal door with a small roller and it turned out pretty good. but, iirc, i used regular latex. i have not manually applied enamel in so long i don't remember = and even if i did, the paint formula probably changed.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

After using a lot of blue tape and newspapers, I was finally ready to spray on the green self-etching aluminum primer from Dupli-color.

As they say, prepping is most of the battle.

I could not believe how thirsty my storm door was. I quickly ran out of the can. I then returned to my local Advance Auto Parts store and bought another can. I ran out of this one too. At this point most of the door was done, but I noticed some spots that were partially done and some where I had missed completely. I ran back to the store. But we could not locate the one can that the store still had, according to their inventory. So they called their store in the next city and they had 3 in stock. So I rushed there and bought one more can. 

After using half of the 3rd can I got the whole door done, I think. I'll know for sure tomorrow during daylight. It was a little dark when I finished. I tried to use the deck light but I'll see how things look with natural light tomorrow. 

The worst thing about spraying outside is the wind. I had to keep stopping and waiting for a break from the wind then I would start spraying. Also, I got a few paint runs. I'll try to take care of them tomorrow when the door is dry (I hate runs).

But for the most part the door looks like it got a new lease in life. Too bad that this primer is green.

By the way, I learned something about wet sanding today when I called Dupli-color's tech support. I always dip my automotive sand paper in a bucket of regular water. But the guy at Dupli-color said that it's better to dip it in water mixed with dishwater detergent. He said this gives the sandpaper lubrication. I know, I must sound like a real dumb moron to most of you. But just had to share this tip in the slim chance that there's someone out there in the same league as me when it comes to being wet behind the ears. 

Anyway, will let you know how things go with the storm door. I'm very curious as to whether this primer will work and make the paint stick (if indeed this was really an issue to begin with. I don't know for sure).

As always, love the feedback you folks give me.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

stripedbass said:


> After using a lot of blue tape and newspapers, I was finally ready to spray on the green self-etching aluminum primer from Dupli-color.
> 
> As they say, prepping is most of the battle.
> 
> ...


It was not, but we told you that. So, how much time and $ was spent on the green primer?:huh:


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Including the gas at about $2.50 a gallon to go to the next town.


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## KC_Jones (Dec 1, 2014)

I think you should have listened about using another primer more carefully OR they should have been more clear. Metal etching primer are just for that etching into the metal to create a bond for successive coats of other primers and paints. You basically should have been able to see through this primer to the aluminum when you were finished. In the automotive industry these are sometimes called wash primers because you put such a thin coat on. After coating with a metal etching primer you cover with a sealer or high build primer depending on what final result you are trying to accomplish. The Zinc Chromate that was mentioned is a fantastic wash primer (I have sprayed many gallons of it over the years) and has been used extensively for use on aluminum (ever see a Boeing factory with the green planes?). It was developed for aluminum if my memory serves me. Bare aluminum can be tough because it oxidizes immediately on contact with air. In other words as you sand it is oxidizing the instant the new surface is exposed. Your instincts to use the metal etching primer are spot on (assuming you had bare aluminum) and your instinct to wash and clean it multiple times was good as well. Good luck with the rest of the paint job! Oh and the dish detergent tip, it isn't really to add lubrication. It cuts the surface tension of the water so it "flows" more evenly with sanding. It is commonly referred to as "wet water". I use it all the time for sanding and buffing automotive paint, makes a huge difference.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Thanks,

Took care of the few paint runs this morning. 

Below is a picture of how it looks. Will paint the finish in a day or two.

For the finish I plan on using Rusto-oleum white gloss and will apply it with a roller.'




KC_Jones said:


> I think you should have listened about using another primer more carefully OR they should have been more clear. Metal etching primer are just for that etching into the metal to create a bond for successive coats of other primers and paints. You basically should have been able to see through this primer to the aluminum when you were finished. In the automotive industry these are sometimes called wash primers because you put such a thin coat on. After coating with a metal etching primer you cover with a sealer or high build primer depending on what final result you are trying to accomplish. The Zinc Chromate that was mentioned is a fantastic wash primer (I have sprayed many gallons of it over the years) and has been used extensively for use on aluminum (ever see a Boeing factory with the green planes?). It was developed for aluminum if my memory serves me. Bare aluminum can be tough because it oxidizes immediately on contact with air. In other words as you sand it is oxidizing the instant the new surface is exposed. Your instincts to use the metal etching primer are spot on (assuming you had bare aluminum) and your instinct to wash and clean it multiple times was good as well. Good luck with the rest of the paint job! Oh and the dish detergent tip, it isn't really to add lubrication. It cuts the surface tension of the water so it "flows" more evenly with sanding. It is commonly referred to as "wet water". I use it all the time for sanding and buffing automotive paint, makes a huge difference.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

Below is a view of my storm door from my kitchen (photos of my doors from the inside can only come out clearly at night. In the daytime the photos are too dark, even with a flash).

Tomorrow I'll try to do the first finish coat on my storm door. Being the anal person that I am, the big question I'll have for my local paint store is whether I should still use the 3-inch 3/8 nap roller that I bought from them or a foam roller. I've heard that foam rollers are good for very smooth surfaces. Does a storm door qualify as a smooth surface? I really don't know. Or maybe there's yet another roller that's even better for my needs? We'll see.

DIY projects, aren't they a hoot?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Others swear by them but I hate foam rollers. They don't hold enough paint and they tend to skid leaving "plow" marks in your paint.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

^^^ totally agree absolutely hate them have tried them many times, all sizes and have NEVER got one to work.


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## stripedbass (May 2, 2014)

The 3-inch 3/8" nap roller turned out to be fine. My only regret is I wish I had an additional roller, an even smaller one for the narrow aluminum frame for the door. The smallest roller at my local paint store is 2 inches (I called them after I started painting). I'll try Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have. I have a one-inch brush which I used but with Rusto-Oleum my experience today told me that a roller works much better than a brush.

I plan to put on the second coat of finish tomorrow.

Below is a photo with the first coat of finish.


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