# pine ceiling with T&G



## mark u (Aug 4, 2006)

Hello,

I am new to the forum.

I have popcorn celing that I want to cover with 1X pine siding. My question is whether it will be easier to install T&G or shiplap siding. I figure ship lap will be easier to install because no concern over fit of T&G but supply store said most prefer T&G. 

If any one has done this project I would be interested in tips. My plan is to install with nail gun using 2 inch #18 brads. I figure this should nail up over popcorn OK becasue popcorn is small and fairly smooth pattern. I have decided on pre-stained wood assuming it will be a better product.

Any advice would be appreciated. Regards.

Mark


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

I definately would go the tongue and groove route. I have installed alot of it and it is easier and if done right you won't have any nail holes to fill.

Dave.


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## 747 (Feb 11, 2005)

My den ceiling is done in tongue and grove carsiding. Look into that. I would clasify it as knotty pine tongue and grove. ITs looks good.


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## mark u (Aug 4, 2006)

I definately would go the tongue and groove route. I have installed alot of it and it is easier and if done right you won't have any nail holes to fill.

Dave,

About ready to order 1 X 8 pine T&G for the job - I am planning to nailgun 2 brads per stringers on 24 inch centers using #18 X 2 inch brads. I have 1/2 inch drywall ceilings. In your opinion are #18 x 2 inch brads adequate gauge nails? thanks. 
- Mark


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Mark, I think I would go with something a little more substancial. A 15 gauge finish nail would be better. You might put the first peice up your way and then tug at it and see if it pulls loose easily, if not then go for it.

Dave.


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## mark u (Aug 4, 2006)

*18 ga on T & G*

My thoughts exactly after getting the 2 inch 18 ga brad nailers- I am not sure but am going to try it. Ordered wood today for whole house and will be using 2 X 8 and figure I should double brad the tongue and then 2 brads in the face. If it does not feel good just get a 15 ga finish nailer.

I am newbie at this so thanks for the advice.


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## mark u (Aug 4, 2006)

Dave,
The 18ga X 2in. brad seems OK but to be safe I purchased a couple of 15ga to be able to use 2-1/2" nails - I think your advice is good there althogh I do like the tiny holes of smaller brads if I have to face nail. I tried nailing a couple test boards and am nervous about being able to consistently [and if my sons help] angle nailgun through tongue at correct spot/angle/depth to not show but yet keep tongue clear [little room for error with V groove]. Am I am missing how you should do this? - I guess I probably should face nail just to be safe. 

Appreciate you thoughts on two other questions before I start [1] would you leave gap at end of runs for expansion? Wood seller providing prefinished wood said he would not and figures shrinkage is the issue but I am nervous that wood installed in CA summer could expand some and I plan to use edge molding anyway. I am also planning a lot of single board runs in smaller rooms which will be easier to put in place with some end gap. [2] Am I correct in guessing that I should butt and angle cut the joints in case of shrinkage? [ends not T&G].

Regards, Mark


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

The boards will not expand very much over their lenght but more on width. I would not worry about it too much. 

On the angle of your nails it just takes some practice. You want to go more straight in than at a sharper angle.

On the butt joints I would just butt them together and not bother with angle splicing them. No two boards are ever the same width anyway. If your using the car siding with the bevel edges then I like to take a router with a chamfer bit and bevel the ends to match the side bevel.

The boards are not going to shrink as much as you think.

Dave.


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## digler (Sep 16, 2007)

*Car-siding*

Installing new pine T&G car siding. I notice some of you have been installing it, and took some advice from other posters with good information. I found 1x6 T&G car siding on sale at Menards and decided it was time to update the look of my popcorn finished living room ceiling. I want to know how it worked out for you, and some tips and tricks you may have used. I have a cherry stain that I'm applying (lighter than you may think) to the siding prior to instalation. There is a hand-made beam that runs along the center of a cathedral ceiling which I'm affaid may be a bit off when I begin to get close with the car siding, any suggestions here? I bought staples 18ga 1 5/8" should this work? Thanks in advance for any help.


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## Big Dave (May 17, 2006)

Since you've stained the boards prior to installation that will help. If I've got a room that is slightly out of square then I will fudge the boards ever so slightly to make up the difference. In other words take a measurement of the distance at each end from the wall to beam and see what the difference in distance is. If it's not much then you can ever so slightly spread the end apart that is wider to make up the difference. If done right it will not be noticeable.


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## Joining_Heads (May 27, 2007)

I would only use 2.5 inch 15 gauge nails. Nothing less.


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## vendejp (Sep 10, 2007)

Along these lines, im going to replace our porch ceiling (which is beadboard of some sort now). I was thinking of using 1x4 beaded pine TG flooring, then painting it.

Is pine TG flooring a suitable material for a project like this?

thx


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## Joining_Heads (May 27, 2007)

vendejp said:


> Along these lines, im going to replace our porch ceiling (which is beadboard of some sort now). I was thinking of using 1x4 beaded pine TG flooring, then painting it.
> 
> Is pine TG flooring a suitable material for a project like this?
> 
> thx


Might look a bit odd.


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## vendejp (Sep 10, 2007)

Ive looked through material, and other than beaded paneling, what would you use? Thx



Joining_Heads said:


> Might look a bit odd.


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## crecore (Nov 2, 2005)

old school was individual boards.. bead board is a copy of that. Go find an old house (early 1900's) with a wrap around porch and take a look.


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## digler101 (Sep 27, 2007)

Sounds good BIGDAVE. I do want to make sure it looks good, and straight since it'll be a focal point when you enter the home. An issue I discussed with friends who have some construction background suggested staples but I like the idea and originally stated I wanted to use nails in order to limit the damage to the board, so Joinheads is right on with my thoughts. I'm thinking since I will be laying furring strips over the popcorn ceiling I may also be able put in between a thin R-value insulation styrofoam boards (not sure if they're called boards) to increase the R-value of the cathedral ceiling. Any thoughts on this?


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## digler101 (Sep 27, 2007)

Joining Heads-I'll go with the 2 1/2" 15 gauge nails. Any tips on nailing angles and placement of nails?


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## cibula11 (Jan 6, 2007)

I did this on my attic. I used 3" 15 gauge nails. I was told to nail at the joist on the tongue of the board. I tried this, so that it would hide all the nails, but I found that it was difficult putting the next board on. 

I tried another method which seemed more effective. I would get one in place, and face nailed. Then, I would add another board and tap into place. I would then add another piece. After I had two pieces on (neither nailed down) I would go back and nail so that it was easy to slide my pieces together. If you find a way that works, go with it. THere is not an exact science. I just went back and filled all the small holes, which were barely visible in the mix of all the knots and grain of the wood.


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