# Speaking of compressors



## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Just make sure it is NON detergent. Without a filter you don't want the oil to pick up the crud.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

At about 40° or so it may be pointing to wire gauge to the garage being too light but I see nothing wrong with trying a lower viscosity oil. If that doesn't solve the issue a heat lamp may be in order or even a heat  pad with compressor covered. In cold climates draining the oil and keeping it warm over night has been known to be successful for engines with cranking conditions.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Another thought popped up in the night. When power supply such as a motor size is borderline, I've seen V-belts too tight cause starting problems. Actual case, our whole house fan and I'm guilty.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Yeah, I agree with SS, 40 degrees is not cold, so would be thinking more of wire size than anything else. But it does get a lot colder than that in Chicago, and 40 degrees out in the light of day does not mean that it's 40 in the back corner of a garage or shed, so lighter weight would be a fair consideration.


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## u3b3rg33k (Jul 17, 2018)

what weight oil is in there now? straight 30, 40? they make synthetic compressor oils for a reason.


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

I had a similar problem last winter with my Makita MAC5200 framing up a garage. I switched to synthetic oil, which helped but didn't solve the issue completely. I spent some time with a heat gun warming up the oil reservoir. That got old fast as temps continued to drop. Eventually gave up on the oil bath compressor in the cold temps and finished the job with a oil-less pancake.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

It is really fun when you have cold and humidity, you fight for an hour to the thing running and then all the lines freeze up


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)




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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

Well, it seems that Nealtw's video shows the proper way to get this compressor to start when it's cold outside. I've used it a few times this week, with the lowest temps being in the 30's. The only thing I did differently was to open the drain valve before turning it on. I assume that since there is no pressure in the tank that the motor has to overcome, it is able to spin up to speed without tripping breakers. Once going, I can close the valve.
I still plan on changing to a lower viscosity oil though, cause once the tank ran low of air and the motor started up to refill it, the lights started flickering and I could tell that the motor was struggling and would have tripped the breaker, had I not yanked the plug out of the wall. Thanks for the replies guys.


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## u3b3rg33k (Jul 17, 2018)

10W-xx oil is not what I'd pick for cold weather. 0W-xx would be a logical recommendation. 



Dave Sal said:


> Well, it seems that Nealtw's video shows the proper way to get this compressor to start when it's cold outside. I've used it a few times this week, with the lowest temps being in the 30's. The only thing I did differently was to open the drain valve before turning it on. I assume that since there is no pressure in the tank that the motor has to overcome, it is able to spin up to speed without tripping breakers. Once going, I can close the valve.
> I still plan on changing to a lower viscosity oil though, cause once the tank ran low of air and the motor started up to refill it, the lights started flickering and* I could tell that the motor was struggling and would have tripped the breaker, had I not yanked the plug out of the wall.* Thanks for the replies guys.


on the list of "worst possible times to yank a plug out of a receptacle", that's probably top ten.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Over the years I've used my small compressor multiple times below 40° and the only issue I've ever had is if frost had been allowed to get on the unit and that only affected the pop off valve. I've always used compressor oil although I've never changed it as often as I should. 



It's best not to use an extension cord with an air compressor but when you have to the cord needs to be heavy enough!


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

u3b3rg33k said:


> .
> 
> on the list of "worst possible times to yank a plug out of a receptacle", that's probably top ten.



Can you elaborate on why it's not a good idea? The alternative would be to let it trip the breaker and then having to walk to the house and reset it. Hopefully once I change the oil it won't do this anymore but I'd still like to know if I'm damaging something.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

I thought we were supposed to drain the tank after each use.:surprise:


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Dave Sal said:


> Can you elaborate on why it's not a good idea? The alternative would be to let it trip the breaker and then having to walk to the house and reset it. Hopefully once I change the oil it won't do this anymore but I'd still like to know if I'm damaging something.





I don't know if it will hurt the compressor, but it might the outlet. When the plug is pulled while motor is running it will arc as the plug leaves the receptacle. Eventually causing poor contact with future plug prongs.
Of course if you are yanking on the cord, plug damage goes without saying.
The compressor on/off switch is the safest bet.


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

Install a start capacitor.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## spitz1234 (Jan 1, 2019)

Is this the unit you have? If so it looks like there are two covers on the motor for capacitors. Make sure there is a start cap installed. They may have cheapened it up and took it out. If so you should be able to piggyback a start cap on the run cap. If there is a run cap installed test it.









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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

SeniorSitizen said:


> I thought we were supposed to drain the tank after each use.:surprise:


 I usually do, but sometimes my son uses it and forgets. The problem I noticed was that once it starts up on an empty tank, and we're using an air tool for awhile, once the tank needs to be refilled and it restarts by itself, then it'll blow the fuse if it's cold enough in the garage. 

I ordered some compressor oil last night and it should be here tomorrow. The reviews are pretty much all positive and most are saying that cold start issues are a thing of the past when they switched to this oil. It's called Powermate PX.


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

spitz1234 said:


> Is this the unit you have? If so it looks like there are two covers on the motor for capacitors. Make sure there is a start cap installed. They may have cheapened it up and took it out. If so you should be able to piggyback a start cap on the run cap. If there is a run cap installed test it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah, that's the one. I was looking at the specs yesterday and was a bit disappointed to learn that this thing was made in China. I wouldn't have bought it had I known that. Oh well, I'll check it tomorrow if I get the oil delivered in time.


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## u3b3rg33k (Jul 17, 2018)

Dave Sal said:


> Can you elaborate on why it's not a good idea? The alternative would be to let it trip the breaker and then having to walk to the house and reset it. Hopefully once I change the oil it won't do this anymore but I'd still like to know if I'm damaging something.





Yodaman said:


> I don't know if it will hurt the compressor, but it might the outlet. When the plug is pulled while motor is running it will arc as the plug leaves the receptacle. Eventually causing poor contact with future plug prongs.
> Of course if you are yanking on the cord, plug damage goes without saying.
> The compressor on/off switch is the safest bet.


the higher the amperage flowing when you disconnect, the more damage you do to the contacts (receptacle and plug ends). contactors are rated/designed for full power shutdowns, wall outlets are not. 

if you look closely at the end of a plug that this has been done to you can see the pitting. The switch on the compressor would be far preferable.


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

u3b3rg33k said:


> the higher the amperage flowing when you disconnect, the more damage you do to the contacts (receptacle and plug ends). contactors are rated/designed for full power shutdowns, wall outlets are not.
> 
> if you look closely at the end of a plug that this has been done to you can see the pitting. The switch on the compressor would be far preferable.



Thanks for the knowledge. I have the compressor under my workbench, so it would be kind of difficult to reach the power switch in time once it starts straining to turn on. I got the new oil today but didn't have time to drain the old and fill it with new. Probably tomorrow. Gonna be a high in the 30's so might be a good time to test out the oil to see if it starts in cold weather as most of the reviews say.


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## u3b3rg33k (Jul 17, 2018)

while not helpful in your situation, I have one of the CAT ultra quiet compressors. as quiet as advertised, and it has no difficulty starting in ridiculously cold temperatures (it's oilless).


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

My old compressor, a Coleman 20 gallon model, was also oil less, but it was loud as heck. Always had to plug my ears when it was on, and could not hold a conversation until it shut down. 

I drained the old oil out of the compressor yesterday and noticed that it flowed like molasses. The new stuff was really thin, and poured more "water like". Once I was done, I fired it up and noticed that the motor spun up really fast compared to when the old oil was in there. The real test is when I'm actually using it and it restarts with a full tank. I'll post a follow up whenever that happens.


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## Oso954 (Jun 23, 2012)

If you are pulling plug attempting to prevent a trip, you would be doing it at/near maximum current. That increases the possibility of arcing damage.


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## u3b3rg33k (Jul 17, 2018)

Dave Sal said:


> My old compressor, a Coleman 20 gallon model, was also oil less, but it was loud as heck. Always had to plug my ears when it was on, and could not hold a conversation until it shut down.
> 
> I drained the old oil out of the compressor yesterday and *noticed that it flowed like molasses.* The new stuff was really thin, and poured more "water like". Once I was done, I fired it up and noticed that the motor spun up really fast compared to when the old oil was in there. The real test is when I'm actually using it and it restarts with a full tank. I'll post a follow up whenever that happens.


oil that thick does not protect against wear very well either.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Dave Sal said:


> My old compressor, a Coleman 20 gallon model, was also oil less, but it was loud as heck. Always had to plug my ears when it was on, and could not hold a conversation until it shut down.
> 
> I drained the old oil out of the compressor yesterday and noticed that it flowed like molasses. The new stuff was really thin, and poured more "water like". Once I was done, I fired it up and noticed that the motor spun up really fast compared to when the old oil was in there. The real test is when I'm actually using it and it restarts with a full tank. I'll post a follow up whenever that happens.


A full tank should not make any difference, the bleed valve should let the air out of the head when you turn it off.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> A full tank should not make any difference, the bleed valve should let the air out of the head when you turn it off.


Normally one can hear it release the cylinder pressure, BUT, maybe the aisians determined it wasn't needed at their price.


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## Dave Sal (Dec 20, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> A full tank should not make any difference, the bleed valve should let the air out of the head when you turn it off.



Yeah, I read that this is the way it should work, but now that I know this thing was made in China, I'm not too surprised that this this may not be the case. 

Once I actually use it, the test will be to see if it can refill itself on a full pressurized tank. If so, then I would guess that the bleed valve is actually working and the thick oil was the problem. 

But like SeniorSitizen mentioned, you never really know what you're gonna get when you buy products made over there.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Dave Sal said:


> Yeah, I read that this is the way it should work, but now that I know this thing was made in China, I'm not too surprised that this this may not be the case.
> 
> Once I actually use it, the test will be to see if it can refill itself on a full pressurized tank. If so, then I would guess that the bleed valve is actually working and the thick oil was the problem.
> 
> But like SeniorSitizen mentioned, you never really know what you're gonna get when you buy products made over there.


Don't matter where they are built, they don/t start with the head under pressure so they all have that bleeder.


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## Drachenfire (Jun 6, 2017)

About 10 years ago, I bought a Farmhand brand 22-gallon portable compressor at TSC. 

I quickly learned it is actually a re-branded Campbell Hausfeld even though it cost me a little over $100 less than the CH branded model.

From day one I have used nothing but synthetic oil in it and have never had any issues with the compressor.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Nealtw said:


> Don't matter where they are built, they don/t start with the head under pressure so they all have that bleeder.


This one was built in NY and I couldn't get it to start without a bleeder either.:biggrin2:


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