# Rotating the Toilet 90 Degrees?



## gko (Mar 16, 2014)

Hello all,



I am doing a complete renovation of the downstairs bathroom (thanks to some fun water damage…) and would like to rotate the toilet 90 degrees. After perusing the web for a while, it seems like I am going to run into some code issues for toilet flange location if I turn the toilet.


First of all, the bathroom has a raised subfloor (2x4s on end). Therefore, I have 5” from the slab to the flange (all ABS). Originally, the toilet faced north. From the studs to the center of the flange, there is 15 ½” to the east, 12 ½” to the south, and 30” to the west. The door (on the east wall) barely clears the toilet. I was hoping to point the toilet to the west instead. See the attached rough diagram…

So, here comes the problem. For code, I will need 15” clearance from the center of the flange to the south wall to turn the toilet, but there will only by 12” after drywall (see exclamation point on drawing). I realize I would have an extra 3 inches behind the tank, too, but I think I could make it work. 

Is there an offset closet flange that will shift over 3”? I realize the toilet really should drain straight down, but could I cut off the current flange and put in an ABS elbow? Is there another way to accomplish this, or do I just need to deal with where the toilet currently sits?

Thanks in advance for your advice.


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Actually the Proposed is the better idea. No problems with it. Just take it as it is, and turn it to see how it looks, is how you are going to know if it is going to work out or not. You would need a longer water line, unless you are able to relocate it to the new left side location of the tank.


----------



## gko (Mar 16, 2014)

Thanks for the fast response. Here is a quick picture... I agree that the proposed would be better, but you would only have 12" of elbow room rather than the 15" required by code.


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

Why not remove the joist system, bust little concrete floor out and move the flange to the proper location
Why is the flange so high anyways? 
No offset will get you to 15"


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Having that non-pressure treated lumber is not going to work. You will be better in getting a concrete saw, and cutting the lines out, so you can put in a proper flange even with the concrete floor.

If you insist on having the 2x4 for bottom plates, or as a riser, you need to go with Pressure treated lumber. It appears also that you are stepping up, to get into that room. That is not going to pass by any local AHJ.


----------



## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I went back to the image you posted, how much clearance will you have in front of the toilet once you rotate it? That needs to meet code as well.

Perhaps you should just consider moving the door


----------



## gko (Mar 16, 2014)

The floor is elevated because the drain lines for the sink and shower (not included in the picture) run above the slab. I don't particularly like it, but I also am trying to do everything by myself to help save some money. I certainly don't feel comfortable cutting into the slab myself. I could call a plumber to get an estimate on how much it would cost to cut into the slab and trench the shower and sink drains as well as reposition the toilet drain, but I was assuming it would be more than what I have budgeted for this project. I don't know how deep the drain line is below the slab, either, so it may not even be possible... If any of you are pros, can you give me a ballpark figure to cut and trench 8' of drain line? I could patch it myself.

With a round toilet seat, it will be about 21" exactly from the lip of the toilet to the wall with the proposed orientation.

Gregzoll, would the pressure treated be in case of flooding or something? I don't like the idea of using treated lumber indoors. It is a finished walk-out basement, and I haven't seen any signs of moisture issues anywhere in the basement. All the drywall, original wainscot paneling, exposed block wall in the laundry room, carpeting etc. are all in great shape with no signs of water. I will have 3/4 ply, cement board, and ceramic tile on top of the 2x4s, and only a negligible amount of water would ever be on the bathroom floor...


----------



## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

You will not be saving any money doing it this way. You can rent the saw yourself. When you get to doing the plumbing part, you will most likely have to have an inspection, before putting the rock over the lines and putting down the Concrete.

The way you are doing it now, is going to be the same cost, if you did it the right way.


----------



## SHR Plumber (Aug 20, 2013)

I vote "no" on your original plan. You need to rent a concrete saw and re-do the drain lines in this bathroom. 12" is too close to the wall for toilet clearance, 15" is the MINIMUM, 18" is recommended. Even if you do not have your work inspected, you want to be able to physically use the toilet. Also, it will be difficult to achieve sufficient slope for the lav and shower drains under your platform. You can do this work correctly by yourself to save a lot of money.


----------

