# Kobalt table saw



## shaydu (Apr 8, 2013)

Evening. 

I just purchased the 10 inch table saw. Can anyone give me any pointers? I am a rookie when it comes to using table saws. I was reading the instructions and it said that I would need a different throat insert for dado stacks but it did not specify which one I would need. I'm planning on mostly using this for ripping wood. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

I can't speak to that exact saw---but will give you some helpful advice--

Get yourself some pushers---the best style hold the wood to the table and help prevent uplift of the wood.

Keep the blade height low---about 1/4" higher than the thickness of the wood.

Adjust your fence----make sure it is perfectly parallel to the blade--

Ripping blades are different than cross cut blades----less teeth--more space for the larger shreds of sawdust---I suggest you use a combination blade--never a fine tooth cross cut blade---wood lifting off the table can result---

An outfeed table of some sort will make your saw a lot safer---you don't want to have the work piece tipping up as you push a long board through the blade.

Cross cuts and miters are difficult and downright dangerous on small compact saws--if this is a small saw--use a miter saw for those types of cuts----


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Got a model# of the saw?
100% sure a dado can even be used? Reason I ask is on some smaller saws the arbors not long enough to hold dado and still be able to get the nut all the way on.
The easiest way would be to order one direct from Kolbalt.
They also can be made from thin plywood.
Easiest way to cut out the hole for the dado is to lower the blade all the way, install the insert and slowly raise the blade to cut out the hole.
Now you have a 0 clearance insert.


----------



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Sorry if this is too basic, but a table saw is a stationary tool, so a good stand, whether you build it yourself, or buy one, and there are a lot of solid portables on the market these days, should be your first consideration.

Not to repeat what has already been covered, but pushers, and, depending on what you plan to rip, featherboards, are necessary tools. Both can be bought or made; I have a good selection of both, all homemade. You can google them, and get some ideas of what will work for the tasks that you have in mind.

Never, ever wear gloves or loose clothing around a table saw. I have a good friend, who uses a table saw daily for custom millwork, so definitely knows better, and who now has one short digit after getting in a hurry on a particularly cold day the winter before last.

And to expand on what Joe said, you can make a zero clearance insert for a conventional blade as well, which, depending on the typre of work that you do, can be a handy accessory.


----------



## shaydu (Apr 8, 2013)

Thanks for the great info guys! I bought the one


----------



## shaydu (Apr 8, 2013)

Sorry I sent the other with out finishing. 

I bought the 15 amp ten in. It came with a stand and a push stick. I used it a lot today. I was installing board and batten siding so it came in handy when ripping a ten inch board down to two inches. Feed tables are definitely the next thing i am going to build


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Take the time to make an out feed table----you will be glad you did---it makes the saw so much safer and easier to use.

Welcome to the world of table saws----


----------



## Scottg (Nov 5, 2012)

* YouTube is 'sort of' your friend. There's tons of how to use table saw videos there. I say 'soft of' because there's no guarantee they're all safe.

* For a few $$, you can download or order videos from pros on how to use that might be worthwhile. They won't match your saw exactly of course, but most of the basics are the same. E.g., http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Your-Table-Mehler-Kelly/dp/1561587060

* Don't skip the tune up instructions. Make sure everything is square.

* I used some paste wax on my table and sliding fence and it's super smooth now. Not too much. You don't want so much that more dirt is attracted. Just enough to polish things up and make things slide easily. It makes it much easier to adjust the fence, and safer in general when things slide smoothly.

* Gloves are generally considered to be a no-no, but I'll use them on occasion with rough boards as I have more positive control over some pieces of wood like this. The argument against is that if you catch the blade gloves can help pull your whole hand in. I'm not sure why anyone should be anywhere near that close to the blade. If you're doing things that close to the blade, you need to change your strategy, use a better pusher, or get something like the G-ripper.

* If you don't have room for building a whole out feed table, do what I did... I've got the Stanley FatMax saw horses with adjustable height legs. I can set them to almost the exact height of my saw and throw some plywood on top. It's a perfect out feed table. And I used a Ridgid Outfeed stand as a side feed for larger pieces, (until I bought the actual extension that my Bosch 4100 can have installed; I don't know if yours has such additional parts, but may want to consider if so.)

* Changing the set up in ways that are going to be complicated and have you near the blade? Unplug it. Don't just turn it off or throw the switch on the outlet. Unplug it.

* Clean it. Use your vacuum or air tool to clean up afterwards.

* These guys make a lot of Zero Clearance Inserts, but if they don't have Kobalt, which I think is a Lowes store brand, Lowes is your only shot other than just making one yourself.
http://leecraftzeroclearance.com

Enjoy. I got mine a year ago and it's made building tables and cabinets and other stuff so much easier!


----------



## shaydu (Apr 8, 2013)

Awesome thanks for the great advice!


----------



## shaydu (Apr 8, 2013)

Btw what is the purpose of zero clearance inserts?


----------



## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Zero clearance inserts are seldom needed--they are used to prevent narrow ,short rips of wood from dropping below the blade cover----

That can be a dangerous sort of cut-----best not to do those as a beginner---

Our sister site, 'woodworking Talk' is a great site for learning about table saw technique-- Many members here are active next door,too.--Mike---


----------



## Joe P (Nov 19, 2015)

*Rip fence issue*

Has anyone on here had an issue with the rip fence on the Kobalt table saw? The back end won't square to the front end when both are locked. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Or if anyone knows of a decent, reasonably priced after market rip fence I could buy. Thanks in advance for any help you could offer


----------



## CarsonKT (Mar 14, 2015)

Mine does the same thing, once you lock down the front, the back end will pivot ,I haven't dig into the lever mechanism but I saw a video on youtube for a quick fix, you can make the fence flash with the right side extension part and instead of moving your fence you move the extension.

But I found this doesn't work if you work with narrow pieces, so still need to dig into the level locking mechanism.


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

CarsonKT said:


> Mine does the same thing, once you lock down the front, the back end will pivot ,I haven't dig into the lever mechanism but I saw a video on youtube for a quick fix, you can make the fence flash with the right side extension part and instead of moving your fence you move the extension.
> 
> But I found this doesn't work if you work with narrow pieces, so still need to dig into the level locking mechanism.


The manual to your specific saw is often your best resource. After the fence cooperates as designed align it parallel to the miter slot using any one of the different tools possible . I use a combination square.


----------

