# Best Stain For Decking?



## lxdollarsxl

You could use a stain colour that you want with a sealer already incorporated in it - such as porter clear stain and deck seal. It should last for several years.


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## AAPaint

You need a quality penatrating oil finish. One of my favs is www.readyseal.com It's a top notch semi-trans stain that will outlast most any deck product.


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## slickshift

It may be my area (which is very tough on decks), but I've never really been able to get over a year with any water-based stains
The Cabot oil-based stains will get three before it's time to re-apply


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## AAPaint

Water based stains are pretty much garbage for decks, honestly. You need something to penatrate deep into the wood to protect it from checking, splitting, warping, and greying. Most water based products can't get deep down in the wood because they form a film on the surface of the wood which is subject to peeling from natural dry/wet cycles of the wood. Add to that foot traffic, etc...they don't do so great. Also, a number of water based products actually make a good food for mold themselves, even some oil products. 

With a good sealer like Ready Seal it will get deep down in the wood, it won't turn black and promote mold, and it will properly protect the wood from moisture and UV damage. After a couple years the only maintenance is to lightly wash it and re-apply the same product. Since it gets deep down in the wood, and does not leave a film that can fail, it can be re-stained numerous times without any trouble.


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## BigJimmy

I was president of a 6-unit condominium in Chicago, IL for 6 years. Our entire rear deck stair structure was pressure treated lumber. I did a lot of research and through word of mouth (another condo association did the dirty work as they had the experience of trying a half dozen or so other sealers) a product from Rymar Industries (http://www.rymarindustries.com/) was recommended. We tried it and had great results. In fact, after the initial application, the only maintenance that was required the following year was cleaning and power washing. The third year consisted of cleaning and reapplication to the horizontal surfaces only. The color remained good despite a lot of abuse from the sun and the sealer did a great job of retaining its water-repellant qualities.

Last I knew, you could not buy this product from a home store but you may be able to find a local distributor. 

Good luck!


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## dumbfungus

Thanks everyone.

It seems you've given me more work to do before I even begin working

I have one more question, mainly for "AA Paint" - Am I going to have to somehow remove the Flood Stain that's on there, and is so, how.

Again, I appreicate all of your advice.

Thanks.


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## FCPWLLC

The Flood stain needs to be removed before another sealer/stain is to be applied. A good seal/stain job is all in the prep.

Here is a good link for a DIY project such as yours.

http://www.restore-a-deck.com/index.html

I personally like the Sikkens SRD for staining/sealing. The ready seal is good too.

Good luck with your project.


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## dumbfungus

Thanks FCPWLLC for the reply, and I respect your opinion.

One question, are you saying I should use "Restore-a-Deck" to remove the Flood stain, or something else a bit "stronger"? If I need something stronger, what?

Thanks,

DF


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## Sellncars

I just got finished doing my front porch. I used Benjamin Moore Stain and primer both colored. This stuff is a great stain, went on nice and thick, but easy. They told me to use a Oil Base Primer and a water base stain. I won't use anything but Benjamin Moore anymore, for stain or Paint.


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## FCPWLLC

dumbfungus said:


> Thanks FCPWLLC for the reply, and I respect your opinion.
> 
> One question, are you saying I should use "Restore-a-Deck" to remove the Flood stain, or something else a bit "stronger"? If I need something stronger, what?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> DF


Sodium Hydroxide or Sodium Percarbonate followed by and Oxalic Acid rinse. Hard to tell you what to use without seeing or knowing exactly what is on deck. Is it solid Flood or Semi-trans?
Call Ken @ Restore-a-deck. He is very informative when it come to dealing with do-it-yourself projects. It is just hard for me to explain because I am more than likely doing things different than you will. (Different equipment, Access to stronger chems etc.)

I will say this though.... Lots of experience here dealing with deck finishes that are difficult to remove later. Go with a penetrating oil semi transparent. Much easier to maintain later vs solids. Solids are pretty and look good but are a PITA to maintain properly and some cause underlying problems that you can't even see until your foot goes through a rotten board.


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## HenryBockman

I'd have to agree with AApaint, Ready Seal is the product I'd suggest on any deck. For a home or for an entire complex of townhouse decks. I've been using it for about 6 years now, it's amazing stuff and really easy to use.


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## AtlanticWBConst.

Old Original Post From 2006


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## Barry M

Readyseal is a good product, Restore-a-Deck's woodzotic is good, Cabot's, Sherwin Williams Deckscapes, Olympic Maximum, etc. All good oil based deck stains. 

The chief factor in any deck restoration job is the prep work. The number one reason a sealer fails is because the wood wasn't prepped properly. Doesn't matter if the stain costs $100 per gallon, if the wood isn't prepared correctly it won't last.


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## shasta37

*You might mention what kind of wood... ?*

With my brand new Ipe front deck, contractor suggested and I concurred with Messemer's for Hardwood. High lingering oder until cured (weeks). Time will tell on that one...

On a small rear deck, I used Behr Premium. Might get a 1 yr. maybe 1.5 yr before some color fade. High lingering oder unitl cured (weeks).

With the highest respect to Slickshift, my experience with Cabot on non-KD redwood was horrible. Large amounts of mildew and extractive staining. I have no doubt it mostly my fault, biased by the fact I chose what turned out to be a horrible color.

At any rate, you'll see that any exterior horizontal wood construction that is not primed and painted (i.e. decks) comes with a *huge* maintainence factor. The Sun does to wood what it does to human skin and automotive paint; which I guess is why trees have bark...


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## tverhoef

WEll since your in Ill Olyipic is good but you have to take into consideration the extream weather your deck will have to hold up to and then all the ware and tare from walking not to metion you high traffic areas and always keep in mind that you always want to have some tint in your stain or sealer to reflect the UV it's pretty hard on your wood. most people don't know this I personally would get Olympic just get the highest grade of stain you can.


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## woodsglen

AAPaint said:


> You need a quality penatrating oil finish. One of my favs is www.readyseal.com It's a top notch semi-trans stain that will outlast most any deck product.


I see a lot of people recommend Readyseal. I sure do hope their product is as better than their ability to answer email. Ive sent them a number of requests and even pictures of a project to get an idea of what they recommend for color. and still nothing.

So, I'm going to keep looking for other recommendations here and then go into a brick and mortar shop. ( unless someone from readyseal reads these posts and gets on a computer and checks email!


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## sgl123

*Recommendations... For a pier?*

Well, this thread has been inactive for a while, but I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for treatments for a pier (i.e. over water). I put Flood on in the Fall of 2008, and it seems to have done OK, but I'm sure I'll be doing this again in the Fall of 2009. So, if anyone can provide advice specifically for the weather conditions of a pier, I'd appreciate it. I'd LOVE to not have to do this EVERY year 

sgl


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## deckdude

*plastiron stain*

Hi... I've been doing decks for 14 years. We originally started with olympic water guard then progressed into the other olympic products. Then we moved into the superdeck products by ducks back. Next we went into the behr products and now... we use plastiron products. Along the way, we have used (for special situations) cwf flood, sikkens, penofin, thompson's, cabot products, etc. I have to say that solid stains are no bueno because of peeling and the flood and penofin products create a shell that although they appear semi-transparent - it's a solid shell. And it will end up peeling. And what a nightmare that is to remove! no fun! a deck stain will weather. it will wear out. So the issue is, when it wears out, what will have given me a good amount of time before it wears out and then will be easiest to clean and restain with.

that's why we use plastiron. lasts a really long time and is easy to re-do. the reason it lasts so long is because it contains dye which are extremely small particles and then iron oxide pigments which are much bigger. So the dye sinks into the wood deeper and the iron oxide is closer to the top. So its deeper uv protection. 

best wishes


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## writehaseeb

Guys, I live in San Jose, CA. I have recently installed a Redwood fence. I am planning to solid stain it for max protection so that it can last some time. Fence is just 5 months old.
Can someone recommend which brand of stain should I go with.


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## hammerheart14

dumbfungus said:


> Hi,
> 
> Can anyone recommend the best (in your opinion) stain to use on wood decking? I purchased an older home a couple of years ago, and have been pouring money into it ever since – now it’s the deck’s turn.
> 
> When we had the fence built last year they put “Flood” brand stain on it and it was looking real good so I put the same thing on the deck. Well, the fence is still looking good but the deck already needs to be refinished.
> 
> I am now looking to re-stain the deck and I need to know what I should use that’ll last more than a year. Any and all suggestions are welcome. I rather stain it again than have to take a loan out (it’s a good sized deck) to put up that plastic stuff.
> 
> Thanks in advance,


WELL, first of all, what type of wood is your deck made of, and what condition is it in? A transparent stain is more for looks, like a nice redwood deck, while a semi solid stain would be used in more practical situations, like a doug fir deck, or an old redwood deck you don't want to show off. I would recommend the best oil stain company in the market, CABOT. But, only get their 550 voc stains if you can. If you are not able to get a 550 voc stain from Cabot, then I would suggest Superdeck 250 voc stains. For some reason, it's the low voc stains giving Cabot a bad name. So, if you want longevity over cosmetics, get the cabot 1400 semi solid stain series. IF YOU SHOVEL THE SNOW OFF YOUR DECK IN THE WINTER, it should last two to three years. If you want beeauty, go with a transparent stain, IF YOU SHOVEL, you will get one to one and a half years before refinishing. I hope this was helpful.


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## Scuba_Dave

Yeah...since that post was from OVER 4 years ago I think we can call it case closed


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