# CRV Strut Replacement



## teamo

02 Honda CRV with 109,000 miles. The ride is getting pretty harsh and I was thinking it might be time for new struts. I have read up on it in the manual and have seen it done on you tube and it looks like something I could handle myself. 
I have priced OEM struts online and at the dealer. They run about $325-$350 each for a complete setup with the springs. Another option would be to buy the bare struts and use the old springs, plates, etc. 
1. Should I replace the whole assembly or just replace the struts themselves and keep the old coil springs and hardware.
Another option is to go with an aftermarket strut/spring setup. I am sure this would be a lot cheaper but I would like bring it back to the stock ride that it was designed for. 
2. Are aftermarket struts as good or even better than the stock parts?
Thanks


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## ukrkoz

I had 02 myself. Fantastic cars.

My suggestion may sound real strange. Brace self up. I have replaced countless shocks and struts, and every time it's waste of $$. ANd I did cheap ones and expensive ones, and OEM and aftermarket, including adjustable KYBs.
Reason being, in about 2 weeks, you can't tell any difference. I am still trying to figure this puzzle, my hunch is - it's not really struts, it's more towards overall warn out suspension components, esp control arm bushings and stabilizer bar ones. Your call. I had mine replaced with OEM ones from dealer - no iffing difference, just like all the others - 2-3 weeks, rough again.
So, here's wild suggestion that works for another maybe 40 000 miles or so. You have that "bachelor laundry" storage depression in the trunk. Fill it with heavy sand. Now, THAT does work better than new struts. Try it before you spend big mullah on replacement. Btw, also makes her much more stable and she corners better. 
Now, if you think I'm crazy and you know better, it is much more feasible to replace struts and use current springs. Be warned - if you never done it before, you WILL get it wrong at least on one of them. Followed by do over. Mostly, it's missing on proper spring on the strut and dampener on the spring positioning. It is very easy to miss by even eighth of an inch, resulting in annoying clicking down the road. Paying $1500 for all 4 of them assembled, is ridiculous on my book. Also, go for aftermarket ones. Very likely, you will buy same ones Honda uses, just cheaper. Billsteins are very good quality. I have no heart for KYBs, and not even consider Monroes or Ariels. Junk. Don't waste $$ on adjustable, quite useless. 
You will need spring compressor, vise, and some large sockets along with hex wrenches and cheat pipe. It's not a job for basic tool kit from Walmart. Followed by alignment. Buy Chilton manual for the year.


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## teamo

I have heard that the ride deteriorating is a combination of all of the worn components and not just the struts. Is it easy to tell by visual inspection if the bushings are worn or is it best to just replace them at this point?


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## ukrkoz

well, yes. mof, you might as well replace lower control arms, which should cost you not much different, time and labor counted, as replacing bushings themselves. also, same goes for antisway bar and its bushings. 
seriously, why don't you try dropping 100 lbs of sand into that well in the back? afraid of cleaning it later? buy 2 50 lb bags at HomeDepot, they cost less than 10 bucks. 
just trying to save you on expense and disappointment later.


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## teamo

I don't know a lot about suspensions but if the sand helps that much wouldn't it suggest that the springs are too bouncy and are thus worn out? I would think that the sand is compressing the springs and tightening up the ride?


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## Mort

You're suggesting that, instead of properly maintaining your vehicle, you weigh it down with sand? Seriously?

I did suspension work professionally for a while, and you absolutely will feel a difference when you replace worn struts. We always replaced them with either Gabriels or KYB, and while replacing them with a spring/strut assembly from the dealer would be a lot easier, $350 a piece sounds ridiculous to me. As long as you make sure to set the spring in the pocket correctly (only goes in one way), you'll be fine. And make sure and rent the best spring compressor you can, none of the cheap garbage. 

Really, I've found the only hard part about replacing struts is 

A. Compressing the springs

B. Disassembling the rear interior to get to the mounting points. \

Its completely doable, except for the alignment, so go for it.


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## ukrkoz

And I am very seriously suggesting ballasting a car. You suggest what makes you professionally profit, and I suggest what works, been tried for many times, and is feasible. Ballasting a car is a standard procedure in racing too. I had and have most of my vehicles counter ballasted basically right away. Reason being, continuous load of a vehicle on the driver side end only, results in entire body tilt towards that end. Pay attention to vehicles on the road - notice, how many are that way. Proper counter ballasting also allows sharper cornering, just like in racing.
I have been working on my and friends cars since 1990. I am yet to find a long term benefit from shocks and struts replacement. If it gets to the point when it needs to be done - the rest of suspension is beat up too. I just had excellent example - replaced all 4 control arms on my Silverado and dropped 200 lbs counter ballast into the truck bed. THAT made difference. 
Talk to old folks. They will tell you - you replace shocks ONLY if they start leaking. No leaks - no replacement. As of dropping sand into that well - I actually challenge you to do it, and then circle back, and tell me, if it did NOT work. Bet you, I can sleep well on that.


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## ukrkoz

teamo said:


> I don't know a lot about suspensions but if the sand helps that much wouldn't it suggest that the springs are too bouncy and are thus worn out? I would think that the sand is compressing the springs and tightening up the ride?


It's not sand, it's weight added in the rear. Lowers entire car end. Do simple math and measurements. What weighs the most in any car? Engine and driver. What weighs in the rear? Gas tank and spare tire. Not much. Measure distance from upper tire edge to fender in the front and in the rear. You will find that rear end is riding higher. As a result, lower weight load on rear struts causing rear end bounce.
Also, it's pure inertia physics. Heavy objects are taking more time to respond to a force applied, than lighter. Heaviuer rear end is more stable than lighter one.


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## teamo

I've been pricing out struts online and at the local shops. I am getting ready to buy everything. I haven't found anyone that sells the complete quick struts with the springs already attached for my car, which means I will have to install the springs myself. I've never done it before, and I know that it can be very dangerous, but I've seen the tools sold/rented online and it doesn't look too difficult if you take your time with it. Should I attempt this myself? Someone at the auto parts store suggested that I pay a shop to do the spring work but that will be kind of hard because I will have to do remove all four struts and take everything with me to the shop. I don't want to tie up our other car for the day while I run around doing all of that stuff if I can avoid it.


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## Marty1Mc

teamo said:


> I've been pricing out struts online and at the local shops. I am getting ready to buy everything. I haven't found anyone that sells the complete quick struts with the springs already attached for my car, which means I will have to install the springs myself. I've never done it before, and I know that it can be very dangerous, but I've seen the tools sold/rented online and it doesn't look too difficult if you take your time with it. Should I attempt this myself? Someone at the auto parts store suggested that I pay a shop to do the spring work but that will be kind of hard because I will have to do remove all four struts and take everything with me to the shop. I don't want to tie up our other car for the day while I run around doing all of that stuff if I can avoid it.


I also have changed quite a few struts. I have to say, I won't do it without air tools. When you are trying to compress the springs, it will take quite a bit of torque on the ratchet. The ratchet tends to twist the spring compressor and it can get dicey. An air ratchet doesn't put radial twist on the spring compressor and is much safer. So, take your time and don't get too much of a rush. It can be done without air, but you will need to be careful.

I agree with Urkoz on checking the suspension as well. First, bounce the car with your hand in the corners. Watch the suspension rebound. It should not bounce a second time. The suspension should go down when you push on it and return, stop. That is a healthy shock/strut. If it bounces a second time (even a little bit), you need to replace the struts and shocks. I don't agree with "balasting" as the spring rates are set to handle the difference in weight distribution (stiffer springs up front, softer in the rear).

The only complete assembly you will find are called "coilovers." They are performance suspension components and usually come assembled. Since they are performance they are quite a bit stiffer. Expect to pay anywhere from $1000 -$2500 for a set of 4. You also have to pay close attention to the spring rates on these. Coilovers are usually 2x to 6x times stiffer than stock suspension components. This means the ride can be stiff to buckboard.


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## teamo

I dropped off the crv this morning for the low beam headlight recall. Just to see what the dealer had to say I had them do an inspection on the suspension. They called me a short while ago and said that one of the front struts was leaking as well as both front ball joints needed replacing. They said they would replace both knuckles as part of the ball joint replacement and possibly the speed sensors if they couldn't get them out. Also they said the wheel bearings are replaced as part of this work. I am going to try to do all of this work myself. Do I need to replace the knuckles to replace the the ball joints? The last time I did wheel bearings was sometime back in the early 90's. Do the wheel bearings still come out the same way by loosening the hub nut or do I need to send out the axles to a shop?


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## ukrkoz

LIke I said - if it leaks - it's replaced.
hub bearings are pressed into hubs. ball joints are pressed into control arms. 
You will need to disassemble control arms and hubs, take them to any tire shop close by, and have them press out ball joints and bearings. Then press new ones in. 
You will need a powerful airgun to break center axle nuts loose.
Unless you have all tools, it might be too much for a tree shade mech to do. Of course, you can drive to same shop, have them break center nut loose, just enough to drive back home and manage it with socket and cheat pipe. Front End Socket set is rented for free most parts stores. 
Of course, if you are really good with sledge hammer and large sockets, you can hammer ball joint out and hammer new one back in. Been done. But you have to be GOOD. 
ABS sensors are piece of cake. 
That's a lot of work to do, brother. How come that V is so beat up?
BUY REPAIR MANUAL.


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## teamo

You're right the old crv seems pretty beat. Guess it's all the city driving for the last 10 years. I haven't done any work like this since back in the 80's-90's. Luckily there is no shortage of tools in my garage. I have an air impact wrench so breaking free something is not a problem. Hopefully nothing breaks in the process. After talking with several folks I think I am going to try and replace just the ball joints and the struts. The wheel bearings seem fine and instead of replacing the entire knuckle and the bearings I will just try to do the ball joints separate. I should be able to get a ball joint press on loan from the auto parts store. Thanks for the help. I'll report back when the job is done in the next couple of weeks.


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## ukrkoz

I have seen folks busting ball joints with those loaner hand presses. Know exactly which ones you talk about, large C - clamp with set of steel sleeves. Sleeves are narrow walled, and slide off ball joints, busting seats or joints edge. 
I had all 4 struts replaced myself on mine. It was only time and labor, nothing special. Make sure you have good spring compressor. 
Might as well replace half shafts same time, they are not expensive to buy.
Lift front up, and rock wheels, hands on 6 and 12. If you have any play, hub bearing needs to be replaced. 
Those are good cars. 100 000 miles on mine in 4 yrs, 54 000 year one - only repair I had to do was to replace fuel tank cap and re-align transmission, which was 5 minute job. She got me through ANYTHING and in ANY weather conditions. Too small for me though. Uncomfortable.


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## ukrkoz

Oh, and on strut replacement - do not report right after you did them. Report in about 2 mths later. First few weeks they do feel batter, but then...


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## msmith5554

Temco. I have worked on Hondas for over 20 yrs. It really sounds like to me you are butting off more than you can chew. There are soNy special tools you will need to do this work. The wheel bearings have to go in a certain way because the speed sensor ring is inside the bearing. If you put in backwards the abs light will come on. You will have to then replace the new bearing because once the hub is pressed onto the bearing, the inner part of the bearing will stay on the hub once you pull it out. 

And yes on the ball joints, yes they cannot be replaced without the whole knuckle being replace. 

The speed sensors should come out no problem if the tech is just careful with the job. 

I would only buy dealer or KYB replacements

If you need more help or advice , send me a private message and I will give you my number 

Good luck
Michael


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## Mort

I'm not much for starting crap all over teh innerwebs, but DO NOT HAVE A SHOP LOOSEN AN AXLE NUT AND THEN DRIVE IT! If it is not torqued to spec, it is a safety issue and could cause a crash. I had a friend killed because he was trying to avoid a wheel that had come off of another car. When you're not upside down in a ditch, you'll thank me.


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## teamo

I will buy the knuckles with the ball joints installed if need be. So I can't just press out the old ball joints and install new ones in the old knuckles? If the tool that they rent out is not reliable I have the option of taking off the knuckles and bringing them to a machine shop to press out the ball joints and install the new ones. If I buy new knuckles with the ball joints installed I can also buy the bearings, bring the assembly to a machine shop and have the new bearings pressed in. This would make the job simpler because I just bolt up the new parts that are all ready to go. The only problem is the cost. New knuckles with ball joints installed are around $190 each. Another $65 for each bearing, plus the new struts, bearing plates, etc. and I am at around $1000.00 not counting the machine shop fees. I know it is still a lot less than taking it to a mechanic but if I can do the job with just new ball joints and struts it saves quite a bit of the cost. Whatever is the best way to go I will do but I just want to weigh all of the options. 
Thanks for the help.


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## ukrkoz

Mort said:


> I'm not much for starting crap all over teh innerwebs, but DO NOT HAVE A SHOP LOOSEN AN AXLE NUT AND THEN DRIVE IT! If it is not torqued to spec, it is a safety issue and could cause a crash. I had a friend killed because he was trying to avoid a wheel that had come off of another car. When you're not upside down in a ditch, you'll thank me.



Please, don't. Don't be stupid and go on frwy, but there's always a shop within reasonable driving slow speed range. They break it loose, then hand torque back with cheat wrench. Don't even try this, please. Mean - scaring people. Besides, it has nothing to do with suspension at all.


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## Mort

Loose axle nuts are a safety concern, no matter how fast you're driving. All it takes is a cheater bar to get them off, if you don't have an impact gun. 

And I hope I scare someone with that... better than having them risk their safety and everyone else's by doing something stupid like driving with loose axle nuts.


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## msmith5554

Jim, I cannot reply to your PM...there is also way to much info to type.. if you will send me your number in a diff PM I will call you and walk you through any info you may need. or, you can call me 
Nine 7 Two 948 two 817
Michael


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## teamo

*KYB or Monroe?*

I am getting ready to do all 4 struts as well as the front lower ball joints. Parts Geek, Rock Auto, and Advanced Auto all have about the same price for all of the parts. The only difference being Advanced carries only Monroe struts and the other two have Monroe and KYB. So which would you use given a choice: KYB or Monroe struts? Does anyone know the size of the axle nut? I have seen three different sizes listed for my vehicle.


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## ukrkoz

I do not buy anything from Monroe. Or Ariel, if they are still around. Or KYB, as I had several, and it's waste of money. I am pretty happy with Billsteins and just discovered Ranchos, but not sure if you can have them for V. I had OEM ones used for mine, and they were same quality as any other aftermarket strut. But I had seriously bad experiences with Monroe and Ariels. KYB - I had regular ones, I had adjustable ones (total waste). Bilsteins outperform KYBs, Ranchos outperform both, but all of those I used on pick up truck, so it's apples and oranges. It's crap shot, as THEY ALL FEEL LIKE IT WAS NEVER DONE IN ABOUT 2 MONTHS. ALL. Just ballast your trunk with 200 lb ballast, will keep you going for another 20 000 miles.


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