# Cleaning Walls after wallpaper removal



## RegeSullivan (Dec 8, 2006)

TSP really cuts the grease... Be sure to rinse it well. If this is in an area that is not susseptable to grease consider just using warm water to remove all the wall paper glue. If you use TSP you still would do well to get all the glue off with warm water before using the TSP. Be sure to use a primer specially made this situation.

Rege


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Just use whatever wall paper removal solution to remove the residual PASTE, rinse well and prime with GARDZ


http://www.zinsser.co.nz/wtb-GARDZ.asp?SID=11&WID=27


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Chris:
Please help me with the primer. What's the main difference between Guardz and 123 or any other Zinsser primer. 123 and a few others seem to be readily available, but not the Guardz. I found one can locally and it may have been with their first inventory shipment :whistling2:...employee said they don't sell it. Bare plaster walls with some repairs. (The paper I just stripped was the original put on in 1913. Of course under another 100 layers of paint and paper). Looks like a lot of repairs will be needed around windows and all the corners. I have 6 corners in this room due to the mantle/fireplace being in a corner between two walls creating another set of corners, lol. Hope that makes sense.:laughing: Anyway, why the Guardz vs 123 ?


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

is a unique water-base sealer for porous and potential problem surfaces. It is formulated to deeply penetrate and dry to a hard, moisture resistant film that seals and binds down porous, chalky and crumbling surfaces, paints and texture finishes. GARDZ is recommended for: damaged drywall, new drywall, spackling and joint compound skim coats, plaster, calcimine, uncoated wallpaper, *wallcovering* *adhesive residue*,:yes: texture paint, popcorn ceilings and builder's flat paint.


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Got it:thumbsup: Sounds like this is the one for me, lol:laughing:. We have it ordered if i cannot find anyway. I'm just hesitant using the one that's been on the shelf since it came over on the Mayflower. Have a great day and thanks so much for all your help. With the help of you and others on here, I'm getting great results. :thumbup:


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

I am sure most any store will rotate thier stock. Ask them to throw it on a shaker no matter how long it has been there.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Also you will NEED a microfiber roller cover.:yes:

Ben moore makes one and I am sure others do as well


http://www.myperfectcolor.com/Benja...Roller-Cover-p/benjamin_moore_aura_roller.htm


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Uh oh....you just threw a curve at me. I've looked at a zillon roller sleeves and have not seen microfiber. I have seen foam sleeves (small ones) mainly for trim. We don't have Ben Wmsn stores here, only SW or big box. How does the microfiber affect the walls, or does the primer just respond better to that particular fabric. Sorry for all the questions, but I'm learning from the pros.  I want the best outcome possible and achieving good results so far. However this room is the toughest with all the repairs on this bare plaster. I love challenges. :yes:

Also, should I use the microfiber for the paint or just the primer?


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

These covers are the ONLY way to get Gardz on the wall.Gardz is like water and will run and drip all over the place with a normal cover. You would use it for Gardz only, so 1(one) will last a good long time if you clean it out after use. here is another brand that is good, you absolutely need one of these:yes: After all your hard work, I am sure it will look great and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that YOU did all the work that will last for years.

http://www.centralpaintonline.com/servlet/the-62/Microfiber-Roller-Cover-9x9-fdsh-16"/Detail


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Okay, I'll keep looking for the microfiber sleeve; would I use this same type sleeve for any other applications? 123 primer for other rooms, maybe? Is it good for anything else?

Also, since I'll be using the Guardz, is it tintable? It has been suggested that I tint the primer since I had so many problems with this paint in the DR. I'll be using it in the LR and Foyer, up stairway and upstairs hallway.
This same paint (SW Biltmore Buff - soft pale gold) is already finished in DR (SW Classic 99 - problem paint) and in the butler pantry area (Kilz which I really liked - no problems with it like the SW). I just want to get by with two coats of paint. I've got 3 and 4 coats in areas in my DR. That's why local SW replaced the Classic99 with the Superpaint. I hope it works better. So I hope the Guardz is tintable for that reason. Also, since it is thin and watery is only one coat needed, or do I need something else before painting it?

By the way, I found the Guardz at Lowes....it was in the wallpaper section and not with the other primers and paints. Go figure...lol.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Is it good for anything else? Aura paint

is it tintable? No 

Gardz should only be used to seal up where wallpaper was removed, not necessarily as a general primer. 123 tinted would be the way to go here,if that is what you have.

We wall paper hangers use it a lot for priming before installation.


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Okay....just making sure I follow you. After I clean the walls (paper backing and glue) I need to do the following (please correct me where needed)
1> Guardz applied with microfiber roller.
2> 123 Primer.
3> Two coats SW superpaint with 1/2" nap wooster sleeve.

Is this correct....both primers? before I paint. I did not use Guardz onthe wall I stripped in the other room, but it was in good shape needing little repair, mostly nail holes.

Should I reserve the micro sleeve for Guardz only or use it with the other primer and paint?

Ya just gotta love all the questions . Been called inquisitive all my life, lol. I just think it's better to get all oars in the water and do it right the first time around. :yes:


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

OK, I am leaving for vacation in a couple hours,so listen carefully

After removal of as much paper and PASTE as possible.
1. Sand walls
2. Remove all dust from walls.
3.Prime with Gardz using micro fiber cover, let dry a couple hours
4. Repeat 1 and 2( just sanding LIGHTLY to knock off any zits)
5 Apply your 2 finish coats using a good quality 1/2 inch cover and brush, letting drying time between coats
6 Remove drops and move on,you are done.

There is no need to apply 123 over the Gardz, in the same way there is no reason to apply Gardz to walls that do not have PASTE residue on them.
If you want to try and get away from the proper way of doing things you could have the 123 tinted to your finish color and apply that and 1( one) finish coat( 123 being somewhat cheaper than your finish color). I am not condoning this; as a coat of primer and 2 finish coats is the proper procedure.
My fingers are hurting from all this typing,so I will be back Thursday and see what's up
Happy painting and next time use Ben Moore:laughing:


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Okay....so I had misunderstood about the primer. use _ So from what I read,_ _Guardz only then two coats of paint?_ This is what I had planned to do but apparently misunderstood an earlier response, which is why I thought you used 123 after Guardz. 

I haven't bought any primer yet, as I still have to clean the paperbacking/glue from the walls and do repairs....so I'm sure that's where I'll be when you return from vacation :laughing:.

* Hope you're going somewhere fun and have a great time .* :yes:

Being on room 5 and tired....i'm working slower these days, lol. I needed a few days off after 3-4 days on a ladder stripping paper. It's exhausting!! 
I admire you guys that do this all day every day. It's hard work.


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

chrisn said:


> OK, I am leaving for vacation in a couple hours,so listen carefully
> 
> After removal of as much paper and PASTE as possible.
> 1. Sand walls
> ...


Chris....1)Sand walls. I sand areas I have repaired. Do I need to sand all wall area? before the Guardz?

2) I have a 2ftx5ft area over mantle/fireplace that won't budge. I think possibly it was papered over unprimed wall. Can't seem to do much with that. The Safe & Simple isn't working and scraping off quarter size pcs of paint. I've actually just scratched and gouged this once smooth area, lol. So Bob Marina said to use oil-based primer on this area. Should I use this before or after the Guardz?

3) Why do I need to sand again after priming? I didn't do this in other rooms, so I hope I've not messed up to badly.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

You should always LIGHTLY sand all walls before applying your primer and very LIGHTLY sand afterwards, just to knock off any paint boogers. Just run a sanding screen over them with your paint pole.
The area over the mantle,I don't get but if it will not come off, skim over to smooth ,sand prime with the Gardz,( you do not need to oil prime)LIGHTLY sand again and paint.

Oil based primer is great for going over wall paper that cannot be removed but you already have the Gardz and it will work just fine.

Are you anywhere near Maryland? It might be easier for me to come there and see what's up:laughing:


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

The sanding I've done was with a palm sander and a sponge sander and I used those in repair areas. I didn't know to pole sand all the walls, so I'll get whatever sander that attaches to a pole and use it on all wall area. Just didn't know to do it before. Thanks for the tip.

Wish I was closer to you. I'm in Huntington, WV. Not sure how far from Hagerstown, but I used to live in Prince Frederick and it is about 500 miles from here. I have a spare bedroom if you wanna make a trip, lol. 

Would love to have some real expertise here. (I think I had told you about my last experiences with hiring paint/paper work here. That's why I'm doing it myself this time. Wrinkled paper corners, paper cut around nail holes and fixtures and painted cobwebs.... Oh yeah....you should see the porch and banisters outside.....paint flaking everywhere because he didn't use the primer and was painted in undesirable weather. These things happened while I was working and assuming things were being done right, lol. I can tell you a few horror stories about stuff done around this house. I rented it before I bought it...so I've seen some stuff, lol :whistling2:


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

The pole sander will help you from disturbing the paint/primer on the walls while knocking off the "paint boogers". We use them after priming and inbetween coats. Even the cleanest paint will manage to get a booger in it some how........

Matt


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Chris....just found a Microfibre roller sleeve today. :yes: Found it at Harbour Freight for $3.49. 9" cover with 1/2" nap. Expert is the brand name. Thought you may be interested in this info. 

Went to the closest Ace Hardware today to see if they had the Ben Moore paint. They said they elected to carry the Ace brand as it sells so well, lol but they could order BM sleeves. She looked it up and could only come up with the 6" small trim components, so guess the Harbour Freight deal was real sweet then. :thumbup:

There is an Ace about 50 miles from me that I'll go check sometime soon.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Chris....just found a Microfibre roller sleeve today. :yes: Found it at Harbour Freight for $3.49. 9" cover with 1/2" nap. Expert is the brand name. Thought you may be interested in this info. 

1/2 inch? that is great, please find out if I can order direct from them as I have not been able to get 1/2 anywhere


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

*Microfiber roller*

Chris...found a website you may or may not be familiar with for microfiber rollers. They list 5/16", 3/8" and 9/16" for $4.99 ea. www.centralpaintonline.com


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

9/16" Is that not 1/2" :wink:Thanks.


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Well, it's 1/16" larger than 1/2" since 1/2" equates to 8/16". In 30+ years of working with fractions and decimals in the industrial field, other sizes were more commonly seen than 9/16". 

Anyway, hopefully these sites can save you some $$ on rollers. I could only imagine how many of those things you have to keep on hand having a paint/paper business.


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

Matthewt1970 said:


> The pole sander will help you from disturbing the paint/primer on the walls while knocking off the "paint boogers". We use them after priming and inbetween coats. Even the cleanest paint will manage to get a booger in it some how........
> 
> Matt


What grit paper do I need to use when pole sanding between coats? 
Thanks again all you guys for all your help and expertise.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

Well, it's 1/16" larger than 1/2" since 1/2" equates to 8/16". 

Duh, too early this morning I guess:laughing:

What grit paper do I need to use when pole sanding between coats?

100 or 120, just lightly go over the walls, I mean hardly any pressure


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## Matthewt1970 (Sep 16, 2008)

chrisn said:


> What grit paper do I need to use when pole sanding between coats?
> 
> 100 or 120, just lightly go over the walls, I mean hardly any pressure


:thumbsup:


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## saggdevil (May 17, 2009)

kk....thanks so much again 

Ahhhhhhhhh and another question, lol. I'm curious how you guys dust the walls after sanding, etc. These large, tall rooms take a lot of time so on the last room I got out the Swiffer and it worked great. A lot less bending, lol.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

I got out the Swiffer

Good enough,I would bet.


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