# Air Leak Between Logs



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

If the check is a split, air could come in, sure. I'd ***** rather than caulking, the logs can still compress and it won't harden up. Did they use a spline on ends, with gaskets between each log or is it all logs, truly rustic?

Gary


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## logluvr (Jul 8, 2011)

There was a gasket between the logs and they also used constructive adhesive and some long screws bewteen the logs.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

I've only built two log houses, years ago. Talk to your builder as he is most familiar with the construction and after-sale maintenance. Sorry we couldn't help you more...

Gary


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I built myself a log house several years back and the same thing happened. The logs shrank and the gasket was smashed flat and actually would hum when the wind blew. Use the flexible chinking as it will hang in there and the caulk will not. Use caution, but light a candle and hold it where you think air is coming in, the candle should tell you where the leak is.


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## logluvr (Jul 8, 2011)

Gary they had advised me to caulk or ***** the exterior and to also ***** or caulk the interior.
Got 1 box of 12 tubes of chinking already. I started around the windows and doors and I ran out. Got 5 windows and half a door left. Just ordered another box.
I had found a couple areas on the exterior where I had not tooled the bead of caulk and there was an opening. I cut out the old caulk and applied a new bead. (We used an oil based stain and I was advised to do that because the new caulk might not grip the stain.)

Thanks Jim i will do that and see if I can find it. I did use some of the caulk I had left and sealed a couple of checks and I could really feel a difference.


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## Bud Cline (Mar 12, 2006)

I have seen people around here insert low expanding foam into the splits and checks. Then when it dried saw it off flush with a steak knife. Any residue from the foam can be sanded lightly and the foam can be stained to match the logs. The repairs certainly aren't invisible but they work and just appear "rustic".


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Did they mention to use backer rod (poly rope) in the gaps first to obtain the optimum "hour-glass" shape only bonding two surfaces to stretch better? http://www.coastalcontractor.net/article/117.html
http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:hy2SMLY4PyQJ:www.senergy.basf.com/SiteCollectionDocuments/Technical%2520Bulletins/Senergy_Details_%2520EIFS_Renovation.pdf+window+wrap+at+concrete+foundation&hl=en&gl=us&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESgPFpYgDWeSF5hk9K8jhRzRHDLT803CVyt1D2QJ-4VaR6O3Y9pijjfRQur0X5WcsayUmtcrRcBf6mhYi64e38ESbbptm9PHtrAo1jJ_XqyZttz3OU5WrqJ9PfI5EDxqG-Qhob1z&sig=AHIEtbSStI_KRvAh59zqX1IjstvXQPNoxA

Insects eat/bore through the canned foam..... and it could easily separate with the seasonal log movement as the foam wouldn't stretch. http://www.restorelogs.com/chinking-caulking-procedures.htm

Gary


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## logluvr (Jul 8, 2011)

Yes Gary and that is what I have done.
that is why I was wondering if it was the checks letting in the air.


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Hard to tell just how deep they are from here..... Lol. They could be: http://www.loghomeu.com/profiles/blogs/checks-and-water

Gary


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