# water leaking through brick chimney



## redline

Is the water leaking between the chimney and the roof?

or is the water leaking into the attic "thru" the chimney?



:huh:

A photo would help


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## fqp25

A chimney cap is suppose to be made of concrete, not mortar.

Is there counter flashing installed where the roof meets the chimney?


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## Tscarborough

If you are getting water into your attic, the chances are that it is not an issue with your crown/brick/mortar leaking; each of those would present water at the base of the masonry stack (I am assuming that you have a masonry fireplace, not a zero-clearance one).

Most likely you have a flashing issue at the base of the chimney. Depending upon the location and rake of your roof, you may also need a cricket above the chimney. A picture or sketch is worth 1000 words.


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## quigleybmd

In answer to the previous appends:
1. I believe it's leaking through the chimney (brick & mortar), and not the roofing/flashing. When the roof/flashing was just redone, they
put 'ice shield' on underneath the shingles & flashing.
But it's really hard to tell from the attic where the leaking is coming
from. The water just seaps out of the masonry block in the attic ..
some actually in the middle of the block!!

2. Yes, the existing crown is made of cement, not mortar.

3. Yes, there is counter flashing over the regular flashing. The 
counter flashing is embedded in the chimney mortar, and caulked.
And the seams of the counter flashing are soldered (all copper).
And there's a cricket just behind the up-side of the chimney.

I'll try to get some pictures soon.

Thanks a lot.


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## fqp25

It is starting to sound like a liner problem.


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## redline

Can you see the water coming "thru" the bricks inside the attic or are you seeing water spots on the ceiling below the attic?

Do you have access to the attic?

Is the chimney located on the interior of the house or is it on an outside wall?

Does this have a clay flue liner or stainless liner?

Does the roof have a ridge vent?

Double check the cricket for leaks.

Does the roof have any other penetrations that water may leak thru that are within 15 feet of the chimney?

A roof leak can travel a distance making one think that the leak is in one spot but it could actually be in a farther different location.

What is the pitch of the roof?


When the leak appears, how much rain has fallen? (1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 inches..)


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## Tscarborough

With a masonry fireplace, there is no good way to seal the joint between the clay flue liner and the concrete/masonry crown (clay and concrete have different coeffeicints of thermal expansion, and having a fire in the flue excaerbates this effect). There is a proper detail for that joint, but it is seldom if ever used.

The crown should slope away from the flue liner, the flue liner should protrude at least 4" from the crown and the joint between the flue liner and the cap should be sealed with a flexible joint sealer. 

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_improvement/home_owner_clinic/1275246.html

Here is what a chimney cap should look like:


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## quigleybmd

Yes, I have access to the attic.
There is only masonry block there though. The brick work starts at the roof line.
I see the water coming in down the masonry, and a little right out of the middle
of the block (at a joint). There are rafters right against the block, so it's hard
to see above that.
The chimney goes through the middle of the house.
The flue liners (2) are clay. There are stainless steel caps over them.
There is a ridge vent .. within a few feet of the chimney.
There are no other penetrations.
I'm not sure of the exact pitch. It isn't too steep though; it's a single story ranch.
The leaking occurs after a lot of rain (more than 1 inch ... maybe even more than 2 in.).

The flues are > 4 in. above the crown. The whole crown and flue joint is sealed
with a crown sealer product.
I saw the Popular mechanics article; that's what I'd like to have done. Do I need to remove the existing crown??

I hope to have pictures this weekend.

Thanks again.


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## rredogg

guiglebug,

There is a product I used with good results for chimney crown repair.
It's called FLEXIBLE CROWN made by WEATHERTITE. 
Its a latex product that you trowel over you existing crown and gives it a weather tite seal.
Its on the expensive side (container cost about 180.00) but there is enough product in the container to do at least 5 average size crowns. If you go in with neighbors or friends on the cost its well worth it. 

Best of luck with the project, rredogg


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## Bonus

"There is a proper detail for that joint, but it is seldom if ever used."

Hope this isn't a hijack, but I'm always curious, and have been mucho impressed with other details you've shared. Do you have that in a format that you can post? Tks, Rich.


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## Tscarborough

The detail is from BIA Tech note 19b. There are 3 things noted that are seldom done:

There is no sealant bead around the flue.

There is no flashing/bondbreaker under the cap itself.

There is no overhang of the cap to prevent water from running down the chimney wall.


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## quigleybmd

*brick chimney leak - pictures!! finally!*

Here's a link to an album of pictures I took today. 

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AcsnLZw5YsmLiw

The last 3 show the masonry block inside attic. You can see that it's damp from a recent rain. It's really hard to see much other than the exposed block, because of the rafter right next to the block. There's no water on the inside of roof on the other side of the rafter. I've taken off that paneling and looked.


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## Tscarborough

From those pictures, I do not see anywhere likely for a leak from the chimney. Is that a top of flue damper (the short one)?

The only possible place would be the cricket/roof valley. Is the cricket a later addition or original (it looks original)?

(Notice that of the three things I listed above, only the sealant around the flue is done, and it is an attempt to repair, not part of the original design)


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## redline

quigleybmd said:


> I've also had the roof & flashing (embedded in the mortar) just redone,


If the water was not getting in near the chimney before the roof was replaced then my opinion is that the roof near the chimney was not installed properly.


The top section of the chimney looks in good condition.

If the water was leaking near the flues then it would be impossible for the water to flow upwards and then to the side of the chimney as shown by your pictures taken in the attic. The pictures from the attic show the water coming from the upper area of the chimney (roof) and then flow downward. The recent roof replacement near the chimney should be investigated for lacking proper flashing.

I would have the roofer remove the shingles at the cricket and inspect for a proper water barrier that extends well beyond the chimney sides and also all the way to the peak of the roof.

If you look at picture #7, it shows the flashing at the base of the chimney and it only extends about 2 inches under the shingles. It would appear that it should extend at least 6 inches or more to the sides of the chimney as this chimney has a cricket.


:thumbsup:


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## fqp25

From the interior picture it looks as if there is no step flashing. This should between each layer of shingles, then covered by the counterflashing. Can you peel back the shingles a little bit to see if there is any baby-tins.


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## quigleybmd

*leaking chimney .... latest answers*

1. Yes, the shorter stainless steel cover over that flue is a combination
damper/cover.

2. Yes, the cricket was original (although it was partially rebuilt when
the roof was just redone ... apparently it had some water damage/rot).
The dimensions are the same as the original one.

3. I'd like to do all 3 things suggested .. flashing under the crown,
and crown extending beyond the chimney edge; but I haven't been able to get a mason lined up yet. The flue seams seemed to be pretty
well sealed, but I thought some more caulk there couldn't hurt anything.

4. Water WAS getting in around the chimney (exact same places) before the roof was replaced. This has been an ongoing problem for >20 years. I had the chimney totally rebuilt about 3 years ago because it was in pretty bad shape, and I thought that must have been the source of the problem. But the new chimney didn't seem to help. In fact, it got even worse with the new chimney - and I was convinced it was because they had screwed up the flashing. It was almost time for a new roof anyway, so when I just had that done, I thought the new flashing, ice shield, etc.. would solve the problem once and for all. It hasn't.

5. I don't know about the 2 in. of flashing showing under that front right shingle. I think there is more flashing that extends out further
from the chimney, and it's covered by shingles. I'm pretty sure they
didn't skimp on the flashing. But I'm not a roofer, and I wasn't home when they did it. The leaking is all around the chimney, including at the back/top. So I don't thing what's showing at the front is consequential. The roofer who did the job is pretty well regarded - he's been around for > 30 years, and has a good reputation & good references. He's definitely not a fly-by-night kind of guy. And he's convinced the roofing/flashing is solid.

You can't believe how frustrating this has been.

Thanks for your suggestions.


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## redline

quigleybmd said:


> 2. Yes, the cricket was original (although it was partially rebuilt when
> the roof was just redone ... apparently it had some water damage/rot).
> The dimensions are the same as the original one.
> 
> 
> 4. Water WAS getting in around the chimney (exact same places) before the roof was replaced. This has been an ongoing problem for >20 years. I had the chimney totally rebuilt about 3 years ago because it was in pretty bad shape, and I thought that must have been the source of the problem. But the new chimney didn't seem to help. In fact, it got even worse with the new chimney - and I was convinced it was because they had screwed up the flashing. It was almost time for a new roof anyway, so when I just had that done, I thought the new flashing, ice shield, etc.. would solve the problem once and for all. It hasn't.
> 
> You can't believe how frustrating this has been.
> 
> Thanks for your suggestions.




Ask the roofer what material is under the shingles on the cricket? (felt paper or other material?)

Ask the roofer what is the slope of the cricket? (2/12, 4/12, 6/12...)

You have two flues- is one for a furnace/water heater and another for a fireplace?

If the old chimney was leaking would the previous cricket get damaged?

Is the chimney getting water on the other side of the it inside the attic or is the water just on one side of the chimney in the attic?


It sounds like the water is either coming from the top of the chimney or the cricket. You could do one of two things as a process of elimination. You could turn off all appliances that vent into the two flues just prior to a rain storm and them put a plastic tarp just over the entire crown (top) of the chimney. If the water still enters then the chimney crown is not the problem. Or you could put a temporary tarp over the area where the cricket and the roof meet the chimney and seal the water out. The tarp should extend over the ridge and then down over the cricket and also around the chimney beyond the lowest point. If the tarp is properly sealed and water still enters then it points towards the chimney/ chimney top as the problem area.


It sounds like it has been a headache.
:wallbash:


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## quigleybmd

*leaking chimney latest answers...*

1.Yes, one flue is for the oil boiler, and the other is for a fireplace.

2. It does seem unlikely that prior damage to the cricket was done
by leaking from the chimney ... but at this point I could believe anything. BTW, the prior cricket design was covered by a sheet of
copper. But as I mentioned, with the new cricket & roof, it's still
leaking in the same places.

3. Water comes in on 3 sides of the chimney/block in the attic.
The top & bottom (both long ends), and one of the sides. The other
side is dry (and always was, even with the old roof).

4. I'm pretty certain step flashing is around the chimney. I saw the pieces pre-bent when they were getting ready to do it. I'll have to try
and bend back some shingles to double check.

5. I'm going to try the tarp experiment the next good rain we get.
In the meantime, I've got a gallon of DEFY Chimney Saver on order, and I'm going to apply that. 

Thanks.


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## redline

When you solve this mystery - post back as to what you discover to be the culprit.

thanks


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## redline

quigleybmd said:


> 1.Yes, one flue is for the oil boiler, and the other is for a fireplace.
> 
> If the chimney was leaking prior to rebuilding it, why did the new chimney remain as large as it is now? If the mason knew that the chimney was leaking it may have been suggested to reduce the size of the chimney prior to it exiting the roof. There are only two small flues with liners that do not occupy the entire chimney. This may have reduced the size of the cricket.
> 
> 3. Water comes in on 3 sides of the chimney/block in the attic.
> The top & bottom (both long ends), and one of the sides. The other
> side is dry (and always was, even with the old roof).
> 
> If water is only coming in on one side then I would focus on that side of the chimney. I am sure that you have looked at all avenues.
> 
> 4. I'm pretty certain step flashing is around the chimney. I saw the pieces pre-bent when they were getting ready to do it. I'll have to try
> and bend back some shingles to double check.
> 
> 
> The flashing is helpful but the problem may be that the cricket has a very low slope. If the roofer did not incorporate the same methods on the cricket as he normally would with a low sloped roof then that would create a weak area for water to penetrate. The cricket area should not just have felt and flashing. The cricket area and the area around the chimney should have a glued down membrane or water shield to stop water intrusion. With addition sealant below the shingles as they mate with the flashing.
> 
> 5. I'm going to try the tarp experiment the next good rain we get.
> In the meantime, I've got a gallon of DEFY Chimney Saver on order, and I'm going to apply that.
> 
> Thanks.


best of luck.


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## quigleybmd

*even more answers ... 1 more (important!) question*

Some more answers to prior questions:

1.I peeled backed some of the shingles around the chimney (including ones on the cricket). There is step flashing, interlaced with the shingles. It extends about 2.5 inches from the chimney.

2. The slope of the roof is 5/12.

A couple of other observations. 
1. Putting a level on the top edge of the cricket, it appears
that the cricket is actually pitched back away from the chimney -
ie. the center of the cricket seems to be slightly higher at the chimney
than it is at the point that it starts from the middle of the roof. That distance is only about 2 feet. Not sure if that could be a problem or not.

2. I put some brick sealant on today - not sure it's going to have
much effect though, because when the chimney was rebuilt 3 years
ago it supposedly was sealed; and the sealant I applied today didn't
seem to soak in much.


Question:
There is no seal where the counter flashing meets the step flashing
(right at the roof). I assume there's about a 2.5 inch overlap there.
When I pointed that out to the roofer, he said there would have to be a category 5 hurricane before any water could get up there and under the step flashing. Now I'm beginnning to wonder. Anyone know if that's supposed to be sealed, and if so how (solder, roof flashing caulk,
silicone caulk, etc..)?? It seems like it would be hard to get any sealant under the counterflashing at this point, because it's so close to
the roof (and the copper is embedded in the mortar above, so it's hard
to move without damaging it).

Thanks again.


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## redline

quigleybmd said:


> 1.I peeled backed some of the shingles around the chimney (including ones on the cricket). There is step flashing, interlaced with the shingles. It extends about 2.5 inches from the chimney.
> 
> If the chimney was located at the peak then I would say that the 2.5 inches of flashing would be acceptable but this chimney is not at the peak, is a wide chimney and it has a large cricket. Considering that you have had past history of this leaking then the roofer/mason should have extended the flashing atleast six inches for a proper seal.
> 
> 2. The slope of the roof is 5/12.
> 
> The slope of the roof is adequate. The slope of the cricket is far less than 5/12. If a slope of the roof or cricket is less than 2/12 then additional water protection is needed. If only felt is installed below and around the cricket then there will most likely be a leak.
> 
> A couple of other observations.
> 1. Putting a level on the top edge of the cricket, it appears
> that the cricket is actually pitched back away from the chimney -
> ie. the center of the cricket seems to be slightly higher at the chimney
> than it is at the point that it starts from the middle of the roof. That distance is only about 2 feet. Not sure if that could be a problem or not.
> 
> This would make water flow back up under the shingles on the cricket.
> 
> 
> 
> Question:
> There is no seal where the counter flashing meets the step flashing
> (right at the roof). I assume there's about a 2.5 inch overlap there.
> When I pointed that out to the roofer, he said there would have to be a category 5 hurricane before any water could get up there and under the step flashing. Now I'm beginnning to wonder. Anyone know if that's supposed to be sealed, and if so how (solder, roof flashing caulk,
> silicone caulk, etc..)?? It seems like it would be hard to get any sealant under the counterflashing at this point, because it's so close to
> the roof (and the copper is embedded in the mortar above, so it's hard
> to move without damaging it).
> 
> Thanks again.


With this having a cricket there needs to be added protection. The roofer should have installed ice/water shield at least a foot on both sides of the chimney. Installed ice/water shield on the entire cricket and extending to the peak and also overlapping the ice/water on both side of the chimney

Did this roofer do the entire job or did his helpers do the cricket area?

The helpers may not have the experience to do a cricket this large.

The roofer may have had his helpers do the roof/cricket while he was away giving estimates or overlooking other jobs.


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## quigleybmd

I didn't exactly see them when they were working on it, so I'm not sure who did the cricket. However, they told me that they put ice shield all around the chimney and on the cricket.

Also, I just sealed the chimney with "DEFY Chimney Saver", and we got about 2 inches of rain over the last 2 days, and no leaks yet!! So I'm hoping it was coming through the brick. We'll need a longer/harder rain before I can be sure though.


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## redline

If they did install ice shield then that is the best way to seal that area.

Hopefully, the sealer will stop the rain from coming thru the brick.:thumbup: 

You could use a garden hose and spray the roof area to see if the leak has stop. :thumbsup: 

Keep us posted to your findings.


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## redline

did the sealer work?


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## BReszel

*water leaking through chimney?*

quiqleybmd, I have a very simlilar chimney/crown as you do. I have the brick crown with about a 1 inch lip just like your photos, as well as the cinder block under the roofline. Over the last year we've had numerous leaks around the chimney. Water was dripping in pretty steadily about 6" from the chimney, I could see water stains on the tongue and groove decking in other areas as well, up to 10 feet away from the chimeny. I had serious water coming in at times during heavy rains.
We put a new roof on the house last month, did a total tear off. We reflashed the chimney, put iceshield up to the chimney, put a cricket behind the chimney, just like yours.
Yesterday we had over an inch of rain (Buffalo NY area), and the cinder block was wet inside the attic, just like your photo. We have had a lot of rain the last two months with no signs of moisture in the attic until yesterday.
However, other areas near the chimney that previously had the bad leaks, were/are dry. When I looked up at the chimney last night, outised above the roof, the entire sides of the chimney were soaked in appearance. This afternoon on the shaded side of the chimney it was still very damp even though the rain stopped in the afternoon yesterday. And even the sunny side had some moiste grout in areas. Also there is a lot of moss on the shade side of the chimney, on the vertical plane, which I would think indicates moisture being present.
I've had a least 7 professionals look at the chimney and roof before we re-roofed the house, everyone had a different answer to our problem. Chimney guys and roof guys.
My opinion is this; we had two problems. 1) we had shingle failure, due to inadequate ventilation and inulstion, which was allowing water to to come in throught/between the rain grooves of the old shingles. 2) we still have water penetrating the brick of the chimney, wicking through the brick and block and entering the attic. I think the inadequate crown allows water to run right down along the brick and soak in. That rain we had yesterday was coming down in buckets. I am going to try a penetrating water repellent for now until I can get a good crown built up there, and keep my fingers crossed.
Good luck with yours.


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## redline

quileybmd,

Did this problem start after a new high efficient furnace (boiler) was installed?

The newer high efficient furnace (boiler) may not warm up the bricks in the chimney causing the bricks to become water soaked.


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## fqp25

Condensation problems occur with the newer high efficiency appliances. Some pros recommending not to run the exhaust through any masonry chimney. If that was the case; and the moisture penetrated the block, wouldn't that indicate a liner problem?? Because if there was excessive condensation in the liner, it should just fall back down, or evaporate, instead of soak through, right?? Just wondering...


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## redline

fqp25 said:


> If that was the case; and the moisture penetrated the block, wouldn't that indicate a liner problem?? Because if there was excessive condensation in the liner, it should just fall back down, or evaporate, instead of soak through, right?? Just wondering...


I was suggesting that the brick was soaking up exterior water (rain). If the liner is defective then there would be other problems as well.


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## quigleybmd

*leaking chimney ... sealer working so far; another answer*

We've had 2 rains after I applied the brick water repellent sealer.
No water on the block in the attic after either rain. But they were
only moderate rains (1.5 in. and about .5 in.). I'm still waiting for a
real long hard rain. 

No, the problem didn't start after a new boiler was installed.
Although I did have a high-efficient oil boiler installed about 1 1/2
years ago, the leaking was occurring before that (in the same 
places).


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## redline

I have my fingers crossed that the water penetration is solved by the sealer. I have never come across a leak with the volume that you have and the only cause is rain soaking threw the brick. First for everything...

Hope the sealer works on the heavier rains.:thumbup: 


Spray water on that area from a garden hose if you need a heavy soak to test it out.:lol:


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## redline

(stupid question)

Why is the chimney soooo wide (about 2 .5 feet)? Are there flues that are not in use?


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## redline

:boat: any rain?


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## quigleybmd

*some more rain; no leaks yet*

Yeah, we got 1.25 inches of heavy rain a couple of days ago,
and no leaks! I won't be convinced until we get about 4 inches though. Haven't had time to go up there with a hose. 

I have no idea why the chimney is so big. Before it was rebuilt
(to the same size), there were 3 flues, but the 3rd one was just
decorative (I guess to balance the other 2). Very strange.


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## redline

Update?


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## Jim Lange

*Leaky Roof - Chimney*



quigleybmd said:


> Yeah, we got 1.25 inches of heavy rain a couple of days ago,
> and no leaks! I won't be convinced until we get about 4 inches though. Haven't had time to go up there with a hose.
> 
> I have no idea why the chimney is so big. Before it was rebuilt
> (to the same size), there were 3 flues, but the 3rd one was just
> decorative (I guess to balance the other 2). Very strange.


HAVE YOU HAD ANYMORE LEAKS SINCE YOU APPLIED THE DEFY CHIMNEY SAVER PRODUCT? I'M DEALING WITH PRETTY MUCH THE SAME ISSUES YOU WERE LAST YEAR.


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## AOW162435

quigleybmd said:


> Yeah, we got 1.25 inches of heavy rain a couple of days ago,
> and no leaks!


I have been experiencing a very similar problem with a 1973 Deck House that I purchased last year. The chimney is a focal point of the home, rising through two levels before exiting the roof in the middle of the house. It has a 2/12 pitch on one side, and a 3/12 on the other. The roof structure is a sandwich of 3x6 T&G laminated cedar/pine planks, 2" foam panels, plywood, underlayment and shingles. Shortly after moving in, water started weeping down the sides of the chimney during a heavy rain. Since the chimney rises through the center of the house, this was evident on two sides. After a few 'repair' jobs, we opted to have the entire roof redone. In the process, we discovered numerous rotten deck boards. Replacing these was very time consuming and expensive. In the end, we have a beautiful new roof with superb copper flashing around the chimney (soldered joints). And it still leaks.

The chimney only rises 2 feet or so above the roofline, so I am convinced that the bricks soak up rainwater during a downpour and then simply transfer the moisture down to where we see it in the living room and kitchen.

The company that did the copper flashing is looking into a variety of sealers and will get back to me shortly. I understand the difference between water repellants & sealers, but am finding that there are simply too many options out there.

Is there one 'tried & true' formula that does the trick correctly the first time?

For what it's worth, the 3' x 8' chinmey is in good condition, and is topped with a new flexible crown and enormous stainless flue cap for the three flues.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!


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## Hataish

Hi, This post is very informative, however there are some queries to ask about some specific topic. If someone can help me then please send me a private message. Thanks,


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## Bcoolcat69

*Chimney leaks*

Here's some points of interests when roofing valleys and crickets.
Most roofers like the look of California cut valleys and tend to install the shingles this way because of time and money. The shingle is install from the longest roof line into valley or cricket to the shortest roof line. This means one row of shingles on top of the next row only passing the shingle one or two tabs over to the other side of the valley.
Here's the problem now. When the other side of the valley or cricket is shingle the roofer cuts down the shingle to the line of the valley. This only allowing one or two tabs of the shingle from the over side of the valley to do the work of protecting the water getting through or under the shingles. But this is where the problems of water causing so many leaks is started. The shingle going from the shortest roof line going into the valley where it is cut down is not cut correctly. You must "crop cut" your cut side or it may leak. To do this you Cut 2" diagonally off the upper corner of each cut shingle that running down the valley (at an approximate 45° angle) to direct water into the valley. I seen where the water runs down into the valley and right under the shingle thats cut to make the California cut valley and continues right across the tops of all those shingles underneath as far as the water can push on heavy rains. All because of a simple little cut on the top shingle being cut to a 45°to redirect the water back into the valley. I see it on crickets, valleys and even shingle side wall dormers where it meets the step flashing. I will always use a weaved valley over a cut valley just because of this problem. To fix the above problem fast is to seal with a sealant right down the valley. Or lift each cut shingle and cut the 45°.


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## benjamin chaney

the best way to decide if its the chimney or the roof flashing leaking is to tarp off the chimney completely but make sure you leave the counter flashing and roof surface open . Then wait through several rains. If no leaks are found you have canceled out the chimney. But make sure while chimney is covered it is not used


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## bengot

*Is it fixed?*

Did the DEFY sealer work to fix the problem? I am having a very similiar issue. Thanks!


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## quigleybmd

*Update on leak, with DEFY sealant; question on chase cover*

I'm not sure if anyone is still following this thread or not. But I have some updates. The DEFY sealant seemed to do pretty good for about a year (similar to the Chimney Saver sealant). But it started leaking again.

So now I'm considering putting a 'chase cover' over the concrete cap, making sure that it extends beyond all the brick work, and has a drip edge. Before I spend over $400 on this, does anyone have an opinion about whether or not that will help? Also, how far out do you think it should extend? I can attach it from the top to the cap, so I don't need the skirt to be in contact will anything.
So I could go out a bit. I would think the farther the better (so it acts like a big umbrella). But I'm not sure if snow/ice could bend down that overhang if it goes out too far.

Thanks.


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## stuart45

Putting a lead tray in is effective.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAdcYazFIio&feature=player_embedded


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## quigleybmd

Thanks. I wish I had seen that when the chimney was being built!


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## tony.g

stuart45 said:


> Putting a lead tray in is effective.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAdcYazFIio&feature=player_embedded


Hi Stuart; good video (pity about his pointing, though!)

This chimney thread (and its emphasis on brickwork) highlights well the difference in domestic construction methods either side of the Atlantic.


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