# Bathroom Wall Repair



## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)




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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

No replies....


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## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Must have gotten lost in the shuffle....

Remove the tile, replace the corner bead and inside tape with setting compound and paper tape, final coat= drying-type compound. Fix the high-humidity issue before further work.

Gary


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

GBR in WA said:


> Must have gotten lost in the shuffle....
> 
> *Fix the high-humidity issue before further work.*
> 
> Gary


Yes! Looks to me like you may have a bathroom with no vent fan?

Also- to remove any drywall, typically easiest / cleanest to score with utility knife along any seams, corners, caulk lines, etc.., punch a hole, grab and pull...


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

Would you remove the radiator to gain better access to the wall?


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

I'd say remove the covers and support brackets from the wall, looks like the water lines are coming up through the floor so maybe you can avoid messing with the plumbing..


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I may be mistaken, BUT, it looks to me like the baseboard heater is RIGHT NEXT TO the shower (looks like the shower curtain/heater in one of those pics second from last). THAT would be MY biggest concern to begin with. Is that up to ANY kind of code (let alone your thoughts for your own safety)??? Water and electricity DO NOT mix. I'd remove that heater asap!!! Get a vent/fan with a heat unit in it perhaps. You DON'T want to step on a wet floor with a rusted/shorted out electric heat source. Even if it's not actually butting up to the shower, I wouldn't want a source of electricity sitting on a bathroom floor. Commodes overflow, sinks and showers back up, etc. If I'm misinterpreting the pic, I apologize but think of safety first. Hopefully when you say "radiator" you're speaking of water "type", but it looks like electric...


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

bjbatlanta said:


> I may be mistaken, BUT, it looks to me like the baseboard heater is RIGHT NEXT TO the shower (looks like the shower curtain/heater in one of those pics second from last). THAT would be MY biggest concern to begin with. Is that up to ANY kind of code (let alone your thoughts for your own safety)??? Water and electricity DO NOT mix. I'd remove that heater asap!!! Get a vent/fan with a heat unit in it perhaps. You DON'T want to step on a wet floor with a rusted/shorted out electric heat source. Even if it's not actually butting up to the shower, I wouldn't want a source of electricity sitting on a bathroom floor. Commodes overflow, sinks and showers back up, etc. If I'm misinterpreting the pic, I apologize but think of safety first. Hopefully when you say "radiator" you're speaking of water "type", but it looks like electric...


I see a hole in the floor, which I assume is for the water lines coming up from a boiler somewhere, so being next to the tub would not be a problem...


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yeah, just not used to seeing that type of system (boiler) here so it scared the "you know what" out of me if it is electric heat...


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

Started working on this section of the wall...


Went all the way up to where the tape was visible. Is there any way for me to tell if the correct (that is, drywall that is used in a bathroom) dry wall was used by the person who originally installed this? 

When I tore the metal piece that runs along the corner, I tore the drywall a bit higher than I would have liked.



























By the way, this radiator is not electric. I hate the location, though.


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## 7echo (Aug 24, 2008)

Hi joetab,


It looks like there is a leak from the tub/shower. If so, you need to address that prior to putting the drywall back. Otherwise, you will be re-doing the drywall again in short order.


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

I would suggest since you're going this far, and possibly further to repair a leak, instead of regular drywall use something water resistant, such as green-board.


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## colinp123 (May 16, 2012)

As you can see, there is some water damage to those 2x4s. Is it feasible to put in a new tub and do a little demo to see what's going on in the walls? There could be extensive water damage around the tub if there was a leak.


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

If that lumber has only surface mold, and isn't rotted, you can clean that up with some Concrobium (available online or at the depot).


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

There is no access panel. I can cut one
from the closet. Hopefully, I will be able to better see if there is a leak.
I have not noticed evidence of leak, but the wood
obviously shows signs of water. Does it
matter how high or low the access hole is?


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

I'm thinking in your case it's probably just easier to remove all of the wallboard (at least all of the effected walls). You're going to spend just as much time trying to patch in pieces as you would replacing entire walls, and it's actually easier to do entire walls. You're not going to have a huge increase in cost, because you'll need to buy a bucket of mud and a roll of tape anyway, so you're only adding in cost for a couple more sheets of wallboard. This also lets you inspect everything behind the walls, possibly without opening access panels in adjoining rooms. Hopefully, the lumber (studs, etc.) are still good and you can just treat/clean the mold, and replace the regular drywall with green-board (or similar product).


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

Thanks for the replies guys,

The previous owner ran grout where the tub and tile meet. There are cracks, kicking myself for not being on top of this.

Is grout typically used where the tub and tile meet? Also, would you remove the grout and replace it with silicone caulk? Or just go on top of the grout?

Again, I appreciate your help. :thumbsup:


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

working on the opening for the access panel...so far everything appears dry.
I still have to purchase the panel. My opening will be larger, and cut cleaner!


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## pwgsx (Jul 30, 2011)

That could be your leak, all surfaces with a change in plane or corners like that you should only have 100% silicone caulk there. Water got behind and ran down the wall. With that said and seeing the tile guy who did that did a half azzed job, do you know whats behind the tile? Hoping he did not just slap tile on wallboard. The small tiles look like travertine and if so that lets a lot of water in if not sealed. If so you got more issues.....


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

Purchased a 14 X 14 access panel that I will install today. I will be able to get a much better look at the area. 

Regarding removing the grout where the tub and tile meet, I saw this video of a guy using a dremmel to cut the grout. 

youtube video 

Is it better to remove it manually?


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

My access panel is 15 X 15. When I examined the opening I created, it looked dry in there, no evidence of water or mold.

This view is through the access opening, showing the other side of the shower wall. Does this look ok?










Here is the access door installed.










I now need to remove the grout where the tub and tile meet and fill with silicone caulk. Fill the tub before adding the caulk, correct? I've seen that in a few videos.

As always, thanks for your help!


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## pwgsx (Jul 30, 2011)

Fill the tub?? Why? Just scrape out the grout and clean it up well, make sure the surface is not wet and caulk away. :thumbsup:


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

pwgsx said:


> Fill the tub?? Why? Just scrape out the grout and clean it up well, make sure the surface is not wet and caulk away. :thumbsup:


I think OP was thinking there was a need to fill it up to weigh it down like you may do during a new install...


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## pwgsx (Jul 30, 2011)

Maybe but thats not needed. Dont forget silicone will not stick to a wet surface BUT a wet finger to smooth it out works wonders. You can use a soap solution and dip your finger in, rubbing alcohol or even your own spit. Check out the JohnBridge forums for a nice How To topic on this.


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

Alright,

I've caulked where the floor tile meets the tub and, on the inside, where the tub tile meets the tub.

Should I also add caulk here?, where the two walls meet? The grout that is here looks good, unlike the grout that I removed to add the caulk? Can I put silicone caulk right over this grout? 










It was suggested above that I might find it easier to just remove the whole piece of drywall rather than trying to repair this smaller section.

If I do choose to do the smaller repair, should I remove the whole metal piece that is on the end? The end of this metal piece, where I removed the drywall, is sticking out.









Thanks for your help! And, obviously, I was able to remove the surface mold from the wood.


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## pwgsx (Jul 30, 2011)

Yes you should caulk all corners as well. You should remove the grout and then caulk but do as you want. Im afraid that water is still going to be getting behind the tiles as they are not what you typically put on a wall that gets wet and if you do use that tile there whould be a waterproof membrane behind it ( red guard, kerdi or similar). After you caulk I would apply a tile sealer to the entire wall to try and keep water from seeping in the grout lines and the stone tile as well.

You can leave that metal corner there or cut that bad piece out- its not needed by your shower as tile is covering the corner.


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

I was dumb for trying to patch the drywall. Tried three times and looked like crap. The metal piece was difficult to cut without it curling up.

So I am going to replace the whole piece.


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

didn't realize this until I started removing more drywall. The metal piece is behind the tile/backerboard. So as I remove the wall I am left with the metal piece, which, up to this point, I have tried to twist it off/cut it. I really wanted to clean things up, make sure everything was caulked dried, and then save to have the bathroom gutted and done right.


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

Joe-
You're not "dumb" for trying, you've just learned some valuable experience! The is the reason why I suggested removing the entire sheet(s); sometimes it's easier to remove and replace things than it is to repair them. I'm not sure what tools you have, but some options for cutting those metal corner-beads are tin snips, a small hack saw, a grinder wheel, reciprocating saw with short metal blade, or a jigsaw with a short metal blade. If you don't have any of those, a pair of tin snips is fairly cheap, and you should be able to cut it pretty close to wall, and then hammer (lightly) as much excess material flat onto, or into, the wallboard as possible. Then, cover with mud, smooth it out, sand, and you're ready for primer and paint. If you're left with a hump, you'll just have to feather the mud out over a larger area to make the hump less obvious.

Another option is to just pop in some more drywall screws through the corner-bead and see if you can pull it back into the wall enough to mud over it.


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

The jigsaw worked. Thanks!


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## pucks101 (Apr 20, 2012)

Great! Next problem is going to be once you put new wallboard up(or green board or whatever you choose to use..), you're not going to be able to put on a new piece of corner bead as it is. You may be able to trim a piece to fit in behind the wall with the tile & finish the edge with mud, or your local supply house may have another style of corner bead that fits that transition. Hopefully someone with more finish work expertise can give you some suggestions here. If not, you may have to start a new thread with that specific question..


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## joetab24 (Apr 10, 2009)

Next problem to address looks like this....




























We get some water that comes out of the tub if the curtain is not perfectly in place. And with two little kids splashing in the tub, this area can get wet.

As I see it, and in no particular order, my to do list includes

removing rust from radiator and painting it.
add some green board below the tile. as is, that area looks really ugly.
repairing drywall section above radiator.
doing all that I can to ensure this area remains dry.


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