# Whirlpool ED22TQXGN00 weird interm issue



## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Ask tech to check the timer and connections on the defrost heater. Make sure the freezer can drain when in defrost mode.


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## TReally (Jul 7, 2009)

Based on the wiring of this model, it is not very likely the evap(inside) fan would be running without the compressor or condenser fan running. If that actually is whats happening when the unit is not working properly, then I would suspect a wiring problem leading the the rear machine compartment (not very common). 
A bad thermostat (cold control) or a sticking defrost timer could cause the unit to stop cooling and warm up, but it would keep both the fans and compressor from working.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Can we assume the condensor fan was checked?

Is this a top freezer?


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

I'm going to replace defrost timer today along with 3-in-1 starter unit.

boman47k,

Tech said that condensor fan is noisy and need to be replaced. Well, it's noisy(very little) but I'm not sure it needs to be replaced if it's working, right?

This is side by side model.

TReally, where can I see schema for this unit myself? 
Is starter capacitor controls evap motor or just condensor/compressor? When you say "not likely", what else can be wrong besides wiring?

I'm going to see fridge today and going to check all the parts. How hot is hot for compressor? Is it possible that compressor overheating because of bad condensor motor? How motor can fail if it works? Can it be intermittant?


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

The condensor fan may very well be going out. Not being there and it being so long since I worked on these things, it hard to say. I think the tech should check the defrost system and, unless you know you have the right cold control and have it wired correctly, he should also check the installation of it.

It may be time for him to take a look at the evap coils in the back of the freezer and look for any indication of blockage or lack of refrigerant. If he checks the defrost heat and stat, he will be right there at them.

It also sounds like it has a problem draining. Maybe the drain hole/tube is stopped up with crude that build up. It may need a good flushing with warm water and a turkey baster.

Is the tech a professional? I am not. I have worked on several. Kind of self taught from the internet and hands on. I am a little surprised how much I have forgotten about the different cold controls, 3 ways, etc.. 

Jeff1 helped me a lot back when I was doing the appliance thing. I can see he is really needed here in the forum. He spent quite a lot of time here. Do a search with that user name and you may find some pointers that relate to your problem.. The guy is an appliance guru. He usually has diagrams, specs, etc.. for most appliances.


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

boman47k said:


> The condensor fan may very well be going out. Not being there and it being so long since I worked on these things, it hard to say. I think the tech should check the defrost system and, unless you know you have the right cold control and have it wired correctly, he should also check the installation of it.


Well, first of all - issue intermittant. Right now it's working fine. I won't call tech unless it's broken 100% because last time he was able to just guess and there is a charge for visit. I'm mechanical engineer myself and have EPA cert for what it worth. I definitely don't have experience with refrigerators but if it was my own I wouldn't even call tech. Here I have to get it right asap because it really pisses tenants (I can understand why).

Ok. I replaced cold control myself with original and it didn't change a thing. Same model, exactly same dimensions/look. there is no magic there.



> It may be time for him to take a look at the evap coils in the back of the freezer and look for any indication of blockage or lack of refrigerant. If he checks the defrost heat and stat, he will be right there at them.


I checked all that before and he confirmed all looking good, etc. Everything clean and there is no airflow obstructions.



> It also sounds like it has a problem draining. Maybe the drain hole/tube is stopped up with crude that build up. It may need a good flushing with warm water and a turkey baster.


How that can cause issue described? It maybe an issue, but I don't see how that can cause not operable compresspor..

I bought a house when fridge was 6yo(it's 1999my) and it already has 3in1 start unit. I wonder if it went bad again and just in case bought new one.

So, today I will check all wire connections, replace defrost timer and starter and if issue repeats - I will call tech again. It would be so much easier if it was just broke and not like broke and then work again..


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I thought you meant just the comp fan was not working. I was not talking about airflow restriction when I mentioned checking for blockage. Anyway, I agree, intermittent problems can be the hardest to solve. Need to catch the thing in the act, so to speak. Maybe the start windings are getting weak or the run windings in the comp. If the comp is getting weak, the 3 in 1 should have helped with that.

When I worked on these things, almost 9 out of 10 times the problem was in the defrost system (timer, df stat, df heater, sometimes cold control).

If you are using a professional appliance tech, ask him what ice spots on the evap coils mean. And what a completely iced up coil indicates.

I was always told to turn the timer with a screwdriver, and if the comprssor came on, it was a good indication the timer was bad.

If the df stat is not kicking out, or the regfrigerant is low, things ice up, and the comp kicks out. Then you have a mess. If it cannot drain, you have a mess inside.

I might would have the tech come one more time, but I would have him check the whole df system. It might not cost that much more considering the charge for multiple service calls and he has done no good so far. He either does not know what he is doing or is just not being thorough. If, say, he charges like a 2 hour min for service calls.

Sometimes, people will change what they think it might be and be gone in 30 minutes and get paid for 2 hours. If the problem is not solved, they can always come back for another 30 min's, collect for 2 hours and go to the bank.

I got burned a couple of times by service techs. That is part of the reason I started working on appliances to start with. I normally do not call anyone to work on anything. Okay, maybe electronics.



> things ice up


Meaning either the coils, in which case the box gets hot. Or, it cannot defrost and the walls start icing up.

Sounds as if the walls iced up on that fridge then melted. If it was the evap coils.... Where was the melted ice? The freezer or the food compartment?


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Ok. As far as melting. Ice in icemaker was melted, not something else.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I see. I misunderstood.


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## TReally (Jul 7, 2009)

katit said:


> This is side by side model.
> 
> TReally, where can I see schema for this unit myself?
> Is starter capacitor controls evap motor or just condensor/compressor? When you say "not likely", what else can be wrong besides wiring?


If there is tech sheet in the unit with would be tucked into the back side of the front lower grill cover, pull the grill cover off to see if its there, and check that the cond coils are clean
This and most refrigerators don't come with a start capacitor. The capacitor wired in near the compressor is actually a run cap and its sole purpose is to help the compressor run more efficiently. If you have added a start kit in the past thats another story. I avoid using the start kits myself on newer units. I see them cause more premature compressor failures than do good. Most relay failures are just that, a relay failure. The ptc disc inside will often crack, keeping power from the start winding on start up. People sometimes think that a bad relay means the compressor is going bad and you need a heavier starting kick. This is not often the case. Especially with the embraco compressor in your unit. Using a factory specified relay kit would be better than a 3 in1.

Has the cond coil been properly cleaned over the years? There is a chance that the cond fan is going bad and seizing up. it when the motor is cool it could start up and turn, seeming fine, but the longer it run and builds up heat it can begin to slow down and possibly stop. If it stops turning the compressor will overheat and begin to cycle off on the overload or an internal limit. If this is happening the compressor would be too hot to touch. If you catch it in the act and the fan is not running try spinning the fan blade with a gentle push. If it will not spin free then replace it.


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Thank you for infor on 3in1. When I bought a house somebody already installed it, I don't think it was previous owners so it was tech for sure. Fridge was 6yo when we bought a house in 2005 and it was working just fine until 2009. When I opened it - we did good cleaning so now all coils clean and good.

I was thinking exactly same thing - try to spin condensor fan when it happen. Not sure it's realistic because it probably will be somewhat late when tenants call me. Yesterday when I was there condensor fan was running nice and spin freely with my hand. Evaporator fan was somewhat noisy I think.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

> Evaporator fan was somewhat noisy I think.


The new fan was noisy?


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

No, there is no new fan. I didn't replace anything. So far only parts I replaced:
Cold control
Defrost timer
3in1


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

katit said:


> No, there is no new fan. I didn't replace anything. So far only parts I replaced:
> Cold control
> *Defrost timer*
> 3in1


I missed that part in this thread.

Treally, would an ohm test on the relay on top of the comp not tell about the condition of the start and run windings? Or the relay/cap ifself? I'm thinking three wire terminals on top of the compressor. Higher reading=start? Lower reading=run?

I agree, an electric motor can run a while and quit until cool.

Another thing, if the three terminals (if this unit has three) are ohm tested, should they be discharged?

I ask Treally because he sounds more up to date and experienced than I am.

Katit, I hope you let us know what the problem turns out to be, if you do solve it.


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Now it's a waiting game. I will see if it works long-term or not..


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

When did you change the timer?


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

yesterday


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

:thumbsup:


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Btw, I did all ohm tests on compresor and motor windings. All within specs.

So.. I really hope it was sticking defrost timer. But if not - I will have to catch it in act to see what is really going on.
The more I learn about this one the more simple it looks to me.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

I feel you may very well have the problem solved. If not, and everythings else checked out, it only leaves the df stat and/or the df heater,imo.

Did you turn the timer with a screwdriver before changing it? If so, did the comp kick on?


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

I didn't try old one but I did new one and it worked


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

The fan in that supplies cool air for the fresh food compartment is wired seperately from the compressor and df stat. If I am right about the timer, that explains the one fan running.

That timer have 3 or 4 terminals close together and 1 out to itself a little?


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Yes, 3 + 1 separate. Original one had 10hr timer and new one was 8hr


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Ok. It did it again and I solved this problem. I bought new fridge for them and will take this one home. Put it in a basement and see if I can catch it in act. Then decide if I want to repair/sell/keep/throw away.


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## boman47k (Aug 25, 2006)

Hate to hear that. Must be something in the enclosed system.

When you catch it doing it again, take the rear panel off to see if the coils are icing up before they have a chance to melt. Did you or the tech check the df stat? It may be clipped on the evap coils. While you are there, remove one of the leads from the heater and see if it shows continuity. In fact, make sure the stat is disconnected when you check it for continuity also.

Seems the only things left is some kind of internal problem with the enclosed system, heater or *df* stat. This is assuming the comp is good and there is no circuit board.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

You can get some $3 relays and wire them up so they latch on the fault. 
Then you see what relays have latched and so you have a clue as to what the problem is/was.

It's a poor man's Event Recorder.


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## katit (May 4, 2010)

Can you give me more info on how I can do that? Is it relays that stay latched when you remove power?
Practical example on how you do that?


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

katit said:


> Can you give me more info on how I can do that? Is it relays that stay latched when you remove power?
> Practical example on how you do that?


Can you recommend a replacement for Photobucket? I can't upload anything anymore, including schematics, and their help stuff is lousy.

OK, without a schematic, you need a relay with a 120vac coil and SPDT contacts [see wiki]. 

Wire the normally open contact terminal to one of the coil wires, the common contact terminal to the AC and the other coil wire to the AC. The normally closed contact is unused.

With power applied you use a toothpick or other insulated thing to push the armature down. It will stay down and the relay is now armed.

If the 120v drops out for 10 milliseconds or more the armature goes up and stays up and relay coil stays unpowered even if power returns.

For the relay try Hosfelt and allelectronics and places like that or Radio Shack if you're desperate.

You may need a more sophisticated arrangement because if a bunch of relays have all dropped out you don't know which went first.


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