# Squeaking dryer



## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

I'm not very familiar with Whirlpool dryers, but I can tell you that there are lots of things in a dryer that will cause a squeek, but none that I can think of that only cause a squeek once per tumbler drum revolution other than the tumbler drum itself.

On the Whirlpool dryers I have had the priviledge of taking apart, there is no "bearing" that the tumber rotates on. There are two rollers on the back bulkhead of the machine that the back of the drum rolls on, and two glides on the front bulkhead that the front of the drum slides on. There is no bearing on which the drum turns. However the drum rollers at the back of the machine turn much faster than the drum, as does the idler pulley and the motor pulley.

I'm thinking that it could be the tumbler drum itself is rubbing against something every revolution.

Jeff1 is an appliance repair tech. Hopefully he can think of something the drum might rub against to cause a squeeking sound with every drum rotation.


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## jeff1 (Dec 17, 2003)

Hi,

No model# posted ( WLP has built more than one style dryer ).

-Some- common trouble makers...
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html#noises

jeff.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

jeff1 said:


> Hi,
> 
> No model# posted ( WLP has built more than one style dryer ).
> 
> ...


Hi Jeff,

I REALLY appreciate the response, thanks. I'll grab the model number tonight when I'm home from work and post it up. It appears to be a fairly straightforward job, and I have good mechanical aptitude (it can't be more complicated than replacing a timing belt in a car, or rebuilding an engine, can it!?  I love to work on my cars.)

Cheers,
Eric


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## jeff1 (Dec 17, 2003)

> it can't be more complicated than replacing a timing belt in a car, or rebuilding an engine, can it!?


Nope.

jeff.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

OK, got the details:

Whirlpool model# YLEQ5000KQ1
Type CWJR-ELE-2306024-FM54

Thanks again Jeff!


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## jeff1 (Dec 17, 2003)

> YLEQ5000KQ1


2 roller style.

Some access helps...
http://www.applianceaid.com/wpdryer_how-to.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/slidewpdry.html









Drum Support Roller - Package of two









Idler Pulley Assembly

jeff.


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## Jack A. Trades (Feb 15, 2008)

Make sure you take a look at the plastic guides on the front of the drum to make sure they are still in place.
My dryer was squealing and it turned out to only have one of three glides left.
It was about a $13 fix and was very easy.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

Hey Jeff and Jack of all Trades...

I had some idle time yesterday, so what better way to spend it than taking apart my dryer! 

I got everything apart and cleaned out the bottom (found two coins totalling $1.10!) and inspected the guide wheels and the tensioner, as well as the plastic guides on the front lip of the drum, and the belt. All seemed just fine, no binding when free-spinning the wheel, no binding of the motor when turned by hand. Belt looked good, no cracks. Guides looked fine, as did the felt on front and back of the dryer drum.

I took some silicone spray and cleaned the area where the rollers would contact the drum at the rear of the drum... there was some rubber deposit starting to form on that area but it's cleaned now. There was some lint and some greasy residue on the bottom of the dryer floor which is now cleaner than before.

My question is: Would the guide rollers, belt, or tensioner feel fine but still be defective or in need of replacement? I still hear a hint of squeaking when i started it up, albeit there was no clothes in the dryer to possibly weigh down the drum and cause a more pronounced squeal.

Thanks,
Eric


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## Jack A. Trades (Feb 15, 2008)

Sorry man, all I've done is replaced the glides. 
I know automotive belt tensioners can feel fine and squeak- you can tell if they are the source of the noise with an automotive stethoscope.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

Jack A. Trades said:


> Sorry man, all I've done is replaced the glides.
> I know automotive belt tensioners can feel fine and squeak- you can tell if they are the source of the noise with an automotive stethoscope.


I know what you mean about automotive tensioners, but most/all of them are actual rollers on bearings. The tensioner in this dryer is just a guide... there's no moving parts on it. Don't see how a new one would squeak less than an old one. So maybe that points to the roller guides?

I'll wait until we test it for the next few days and see if my cleaning/inspecting worked any magic.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

Curls:

Normally, if a belt LOOKS good, it still is good. However, you can't tell if the drum rollers that the back of the drum rides on are good just by turning them by hand. You won't turn them fast enough for them to squeek as they would in service. Also, there won't be any weight on them when the drum is out of the machine.

Most commonly it's the drum rollers that the back of the drum rides on that first start to squeek.

If you have good access, give each of those drum rollers a shot of WD-40 right where the bearing meets the axle it turns on. If the squeeking goes away for a few days, then that's where the source of the squeeking is.

Also, maybe go buy a cheap "mechanic's stethoscope" for $10 or $15 at places where they sell automotive tools. A mechanic's stethoscope consists of a metal probe that's attached to a thin metal diaphragm that's encased in plastic. Two tubes come off that plastic casing and go to your ears. Since noise is caused by vibrations, when you touch the metal probe to various parts of an engine that's producing a noise, the noise will be heard loudest when the probe is touching the part of the engine that's vibrating to create that noise. Thus, you can determine the source of the noise in your dryer with an inexpensive mechanic's stethoscope.

The cheap ones cost about $10 or $15, and that's all you need. You can get mechanic's stethoscopes that cost several hundred dollars.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

Well my few minutes of cleaning didn't seem to help. Once there is a load of wet clothes in the dryer, the squeaking returns.

I've ordered that kit for about $26 locally and should be able to install it tomorrow evening and test it by the weekend.

Thanks guys.
Eric


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## jeff1 (Dec 17, 2003)

> Would the guide rollers, belt, or tensioner feel fine but still be defective or in need of replacement?


Belt...probably not, front support/glides...probably not.
Idler pulley and rollers are an oil inpregnated bearing, if most or all of the oil is gone from the bearing it can look fine but still make a noise. Some are noisey when hot, some cold, ect.

jeff.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

Fixed 100% - got the kit that included the two rollers, a handful of triangle rings (only need 4), a pair of stoppers (only need one) and a belt.

Took 45 minutes this time and all seems 100% better with a large damp load of laundry, whereas it used to squeak before.

Thanks everyone for the great help!
Eric


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## masterofthe (Apr 16, 2007)

Loose pulleys where the belts are can cause squeeks a lot of times. Sometimes, it's the belts themselves that causes it especially if it is on that age.,

You can try cleaning first the belts or replace it or you can also seek for loose pulleys from the motor or the center drum. They usually have a lock and if you tighten it, that usually cures the problem.


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## curls00 (Jul 12, 2007)

masterofthe said:


> Loose pulleys where the belts are can cause squeeks a lot of times. Sometimes, it's the belts themselves that causes it especially if it is on that age.,
> 
> You can try cleaning first the belts or replace it or you can also seek for loose pulleys from the motor or the center drum. They usually have a lock and if you tighten it, that usually cures the problem.


The repair kit I bought fixed the problem. The only belt-related pulley on this dryer, FYI, is the motor itself. The tensioner is more of a guide on a piece of metal, it doesn't have a rotating assembly on it at all.

Either way, the dryer if fixed and all is good.


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