# KILZ primer still off gassing 6 months later



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

If the fumes have lasted this long and continue, well, I'd say aside from installing new drywall in the closet or going over it all with 1/4" drywall, there's not much else you can do. I can believe an oil-based smell has lasted that long. A closet, with little or no ventilation is certainly a prime candidate for something like this to happen.

The only other thing I can come up with is to go over it with something like GARDZ which is more of a sealer. Problem is, it too, has a distinct odor that may not dissipate either.

Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions?


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

Gymschu said:


> If the fumes have lasted this long and continue, well, I'd say aside from installing new drywall in the closet or going over it all with 1/4" drywall, there's not much else you can do. I can believe an oil-based smell has lasted that long. A closet, with little or no ventilation is certainly a prime candidate for something like this to happen.
> 
> The only other thing I can come up with is to go over it with something like GARDZ which is more of a sealer. Problem is, it too, has a distinct odor that may not dissipate either.
> 
> Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions?


Thanks for responding. Exactly right. The closet has no ventilation. I used a fan to blow into the closet, and then one at the window to exhaust. But as you said. Prime candidate for this sort of thing. I looked up GARDZ. Seems to be for non-coated surfaces. Hard to believe there is not some product out there, to seal in primer smell from oil based paint. Given how toxic it is. One would think someone would have brought something to market.

One person recommended using ozone generator. Could ozone work to remove paint odors? Was advised to use it for 1/2 hour intervals in the closet. But I wonder if ozone can get at paint fumes?


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

Time to cut the crap and fix it. Pull down the sheetrock Ceiling and walls and dispose of. Pull out the insulation also. Cut out plywood subfloor and install new. Replace insulation and drywall, paint. Sounds like a ton of work.....but I could have everything out in a day, couple of days for new stuff in. Better than sleeping wherever you have been.


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

ront02769 said:


> Time to cut the crap and fix it. Pull down the sheetrock Ceiling and walls and dispose of. Pull out the insulation also. Cut out plywood subfloor and install new. Replace insulation and drywall, paint. Sounds like a ton of work.....but I could have everything out in a day, couple of days for new stuff in. Better than sleeping wherever you have been.


The problem is that the closet is plaster and cement. I considered hiring someone to demo the thing. But it will cost at least $3000-5000. Old building from the 50's. Would gladly tear it down if it was drywall. Would do it myself. As I have worked with drywall when we finished a basement in the last house we lived in. 

I find it amazing that there is not a product that can seal in the oil based primer. Given how toxic it is. Safecoat has the right idea. But it does not get the job done. 

If demolition is not an option due to cost. Is there a primer or sealer out there that can contain the off gas? Someone suggested KILZ Restoration. As it claims to be good for odors. But is latex. Which makes me doubt efficacy.


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## RRH (Nov 24, 2016)

So its a closet. I am guessing you will be putting down new carpet or floor?
When we put down vinyl plank flooring we always first put down tar paper or plastic sheathing. So in your case why not use 4 mil plastic sheathing. Duct tape the edges so area is completely sealed. Then new flooring.

Maybe wait a couple days to confirm the odor was coming from the floor and not something else.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

Fresh air ventilation has always been the best way to remove paint odors.

While plaster removal is messy it is something a diyer can do. You can then hang drywall.


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

mark sr said:


> Fresh air ventilation has always been the best way to remove paint odors.
> 
> While plaster removal is messy it is something a diyer can do. You can then hang drywall.


I've been told that the off gas will happen more quickly if the room has heat. Have been leaving window closed, then opening every 12 hours or so. Are you suggesting to leave the window fully open, which will bring in a large amount of cold air into the room? Would this help the off gas to go more quickly vs a heated room and then venting?

Question - will the off gas eventually stop? Some have said the smell could have reabsorbed into the closet space. Just wondering, whether it reabsorbed or not, will the oil based smell eventually leave on its own? Or could it take another 6 months or longer? Have not seen significant reduction in the last several months. It's a low, persistent smell that fills up the room within 1-2 hours once the window is closer. 

Ozone is as the sale people like to say - "Like leaving a window open for 1 year." Could an ozone generator get rid of the oil based paint fume? This was one recommendation.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

You'd need to do more than just leave a window open, the fresh air needs to circulate thru the closet. I know easier said than done. Solvent based primers do a good job of preventing odors from migrating thru what is coated with them. They do come with their own odor though. Some folks are more sensitive to odors than others.


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

RRH said:


> So its a closet. I am guessing you will be putting down new carpet or floor?
> When we put down vinyl plank flooring we always first put down tar paper or plastic sheathing. So in your case why not use 4 mil plastic sheathing. Duct tape the edges so area is completely sealed. Then new flooring.
> 
> Maybe wait a couple days to confirm the odor was coming from the floor and not something else.


The plastic sheathing would be a good idea except, I'd have to put up dry wall and re-do whole interior when I go to sell this place. Where as if I can find some kind of application, a sealer that I can paint over the oil based primer. Then the space would be usable right away without the labour and cost of rebuilding the entire interior.

Is there nothing I can paint over the oil based paint primer, that will seal it in? Something similar to Safecoat? One forum member suggested using bin shellac over the oil primer to seal in the primer smell. Could that work? Or perhaps another sealer with similar application?

Here is AFM Safecoat. It claims to seal in off gas. But reviews are mixed,



AFM Safecoat - Clear Finishes



This could do the trick. Just not sure which to use.


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

What do you guys think of this AFM Sealer?
*SAFECOAT® ACRIGLAZE MATTE
"This special mixing medium and finish is suitable for use even in the display, art and show fields. It is mildew resistant, odorless and dries clear. Ideal for restoring old finishes to their original brilliance, sealing and preserving painted work, faux finishing and as an adhesive for paper mache."*



AFM Safecoat - Safecoat® AcriGlaze Matte



This sounds ideal. Dries clear. That's perfect as the KILZ primer can act as a finish coat for a closet. No problem there. And the main concern, it is odorless. 

My father's closet in his apartment. Some kind of heavy glaze was applied in it. It is a small hallway closet for blankets. The thickness looks like it was used to seal something in. And restore the space. If only I could identify what that finish is. Could use something similar.


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## mark sr (Jun 13, 2017)

I don't recall ever using that particular product. It may be odorless [I doubt it] but will it seal or otherwise get rid of any current odors?


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

At this point, you have nothing to lose by trying the Safecoat. It sounds a lot like GARDZ. Gardz CAN be used on already painted surfaces. I use it on poorly painted walls that have damage from wallpaper removal or leftover paste residue that I can't remove. It basically gives you a "clean slate" on interior walls.

All you need is a quart of the Safecoat if it comes in quarts. Gardz comes in quarts, maybe $12 per quart. I say give it a shot. If that doesn't work, consider applying 1/4" drywall over top of the plaster walls.

BIN might seal in the oil-based smell, but, it too, has an awfully strong odor and I think you would be right back at square one.


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

Gymschu said:


> At this point, you have nothing to lose by trying the Safecoat. It sounds a lot like GARDZ. Gardz CAN be used on already painted surfaces. I use it on poorly painted walls that have damage from wallpaper removal or leftover paste residue that I can't remove. It basically gives you a "clean slate" on interior walls.
> 
> All you need is a quart of the Safecoat if it comes in quarts. Gardz comes in quarts, maybe $12 per quart. I say give it a shot. If that doesn't work, consider applying 1/4" drywall over top of the plaster walls.
> 
> BIN might seal in the oil-based smell, but, it too, has an awfully strong odor and I think you would be right back at square one.


Thank you Gynschu. I will into the GARDZ more thoroughly. May I ask if you have used GARDZ for sealing oil based primer smell? Or other fumes in the past? I ask because one thing is advertised by the product manufacturer. While first hand experience can very greatly. Have you used GARDZ for odor, and if so, what kind of odors have you successfully eliminated using GARDZ?

I agree about the safecoat. Called one company that sells it. Will call Safecoat directly now.

1/4" dry wall is a definite option. Do you think primer off gas can pass through dry wall? I believe it is porous. But here again, I lack the experience to know. And would rather be certain before rebuilding the inside of the closet.


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

I HAVE NOT used Gardz to seal off odors. I'm sure that's not one of its properties but with it being relatively cheap, I wanted to throw it out there as something to try. I'm not 100% certain the 1/4" drywall would seal off the off gassing for good. It could indeed pass through the porous drywall and re-emerge. I don't know if sealing the backside of the drywall would perhaps keep that from happening? 

This is such a rare occurrence and that makes it difficult to advise. I know we had someone on here about a year ago and he was super-sensitive to smells and I don't think we were ever able to assist. We ran through so many scenarios and he tried most of them but never found success that I know of.

The only other advice I can think of is to call the maker of KILZ. It's a long shot, but, maybe someone there has some thoughts that we haven't come up with.


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## JohnDIY76 (Jan 14, 2021)

Gymschu said:


> I HAVE NOT used Gardz to seal off odors. I'm sure that's not one of its properties but with it being relatively cheap, I wanted to throw it out there as something to try. I'm not 100% certain the 1/4" drywall would seal off the off gassing for good. It could indeed pass through the porous drywall and re-emerge. I don't know if sealing the backside of the drywall would perhaps keep that from happening?
> 
> This is such a rare occurrence and that makes it difficult to advise. I know we had someone on here about a year ago and he was super-sensitive to smells and I don't think we were ever able to assist. We ran through so many scenarios and he tried most of them but never found success that I know of.
> 
> The only other advice I can think of is to call the maker of KILZ. It's a long shot, but, maybe someone there has some thoughts that we haven't come up with.


I appreciate your honesty and advice Gymschu. I agree it is a difficult scenario.

I would like to add to this thread, something that may help others. As I just spoke with Jay from AFM Safecoat. Explained the whole situation. He uses and tests these products. Said that people do have this problem from time to time. He advised to use the AFM SAFECOAT POLYURESEAL BP GLOSS/MATTE. Explained this is the strongest sealant they have. Beyond that, if that did not work. He recommended 2 coats of the Transitional Primer that AFM makes. And then 2 coats of the SAFECOAT PEARL water based top coat. Jay said for some reason the pearl formulation is really good for sealing in off gas. I am going to try this approach as Jay from Safecoat did say many have had success in sealing in oil primer smell. I did also speak to Bill from GREEN BUILDING SUPPLY. Who sell AFM products. Bill noted that the polyureseal's specs state cannot be used on oil surface. But Jay from Safecoat is well versed with these products. Bill said if Jay advised it, it will likely work fine. Only issue is adhesion. And for that Bill said to order a sample, to see if it sticks to the Kilz Original oil based primer. If it does, then to proceed with ordering a gallon or so, as it will take at least 2-3 coats. If that fails, I will then do the transitional primer/pearl topcoat. And pray that something works.

Here are the links to the products for anyone that may come across this issue in the future. I will post my results when I try these steps.

My sincere thanks to everyone who took the time to respond. Take care guys.

AFM SAFECOAT POLYURESEAL BP GLOSS/MATTE


AFM Safecoat - Safecoat® Polyureseal BP Gloss










AFM SafeCoat, Polyureseal BP - Non-Toxic, Durable, Polyurethane Alternative


AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP, low VOC sealer, creates a durable, long-lasting finish, seals in off-gassing of hazardous chemicals, non-toxic and safe for everyone.




www.greenbuildingsupply.com





AFM SafeCoat, Transitional Primer (Int/Ext)


AFM Safecoat - Safecoat® Transitional Primer










AFM SafeCoat, Transitional Primer - Non-Toxic, Ultra Low VOC, Encapsulating


AFM Safecoat Transitional Primer, premium quality, non-toxic primer, formulated to solve difficult application problems without the use of toxic ingredients.




www.greenbuildingsupply.com





AFM SAFECOAT PEARL


AFM Safecoat - Safecoat® Zero VOC Pearl


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## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

@JohnDIY76, thank you for the information. It is very helpful and will indeed help someone down the road. Glad you were able to get some direction from people who know their business and their products.


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## ChanceP (Jun 5, 2021)

JohnDIY76 said:


> I appreciate your honesty and advice Gymschu. I agree it is a difficult scenario.
> 
> I would like to add to this thread, something that may help others. As I just spoke with Jay from AFM Safecoat. Explained the whole situation. He uses and tests these products. Said that people do have this problem from time to time. He advised to use the AFM SAFECOAT POLYURESEAL BP GLOSS/MATTE. Explained this is the strongest sealant they have. Beyond that, if that did not work. He recommended 2 coats of the Transitional Primer that AFM makes. And then 2 coats of the SAFECOAT PEARL water based top coat. Jay said for some reason the pearl formulation is really good for sealing in off gas. I am going to try this approach as Jay from Safecoat did say many have had success in sealing in oil primer smell. I did also speak to Bill from GREEN BUILDING SUPPLY. Who sell AFM products. Bill noted that the polyureseal's specs state cannot be used on oil surface. But Jay from Safecoat is well versed with these products. Bill said if Jay advised it, it will likely work fine. Only issue is adhesion. And for that Bill said to order a sample, to see if it sticks to the Kilz Original oil based primer. If it does, then to proceed with ordering a gallon or so, as it will take at least 2-3 coats. If that fails, I will then do the transitional primer/pearl topcoat. And pray that something works.
> 
> ...


Did this work? Which method did you use? Just bought home that has rental unit I’m staying while main unit renovated. Sometime before closing, they painted something with Kilz and 6 weeks later it is still noticeable.


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