# Broken wiring for outdoor lamp



## kbsparky (Sep 11, 2008)

Sounds like type UF wire to me with the "sunlight resistant" markings on it.

That means it is suitable for direct burial.

What kind of "volt sensor" are you using? Does the wire show any visible signs of damage where you believe it is broken?


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

It is a sensor I hold up to the wire, and it beeps if it detects a current. THere is a rip in the insulation of the wire in the spot where the sensor stops detecting current, so It appears I found the break in the wire.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

There are splice kits made for splicing direct-burial cable. I think that your local Home Depot will have it.
You may need to make two splices, adding in a short length of cable (make sure it's UF and the same or larger gauge as what is there). You would then need two splice kits.

The voltage sensor sounds like what my Zircon stud finder has. It will detect an ac field around a wire. I suppose the one the OP is using is specifically designed for that purpose though.

FW


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Yeah, it was a $10 device to detect the current. 

I bought some direct burial waterproof wire nuts to make the connection. I didn't see (or look for, since I am just reading this) a splice kit...so I figured I'd need 6 wire nuts, 3 on each side (hot, neutral, ground).

I added some low-grade non-UL rated wire as a test, with normal wire nuts on each side. this fixed that segment of the wire (the volt sensor detected current on both sides of the splice), but the light still doesn't work. It must be ripped in more than one place. I've decided to just bite the bullet and rip up the wole thing, and lay new underground-rated wire in conduit. 

Some questions on the proper and safe way to do this

Do I just buy PVC conduit and bury it with the wire inside, or is metal conduit better?

The old wire was about a foot deep, maybe 10", is that a good depth?

Can I leave the old wire in the ground, assuming it is not connected at either end, or is there a reason to take it out?

The current wire comes through the foundation and plugs right into an outlet. I planned to just leave it plugged in all the time and used a dusk-to-dawn light sensor at the socket. Any reason why I should add a switch, or just replace that outlet with a switch?

Any other suggestions? 

Thanks again.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

Good decision. Besides, I think you would need more than just wirenuts. The wires themselves have to be protected from the soil, so some sort of sleeving must be used over the entire splice.

NEC 2005, 300.5 says the following regarding depth of the cable:

Direct Burial Cable or conductors: 24"
Rigid Metal Conduit or Intermediate Metal Conduit: 6"
Residential Branch Circuits rated 120V or less with GFCI protection and maximum overcurrent protection of 20A: 12"

Running rigid metal conduit would probably be the easiest method, as it requires only 6" trench. Digging is hard work.
Of course, you need to make sure your conduit is sealed at any joints.

If you go with conduit, you don't need UF cable. You can just use THHN wires, but you will need to run three wires. Hot, Neutral, and Ground. Make sure the ground wire is bonded to the lamp post, and to the ground system at the source inside.
Where the conduit comes up into the lamp it must be protected so the wires are never exposed to soil or weather.

I don't think it matters whether you use a plug to connect to the receptacle or direct wire.
If you use a plug, it is going to have to be a heavy duty w ground, since the minimum wire size you can use is #14, and then you must use a 15A or smaller breaker.
IMO, it's going to be a PITA to connect THHN wires directly to a plug. They are not very flexible.
If you want, you could use a junction box, then go into a length of #14 SJ cord, but if you're going to use another J-box, then you might as well just run the conduit directly into a box and install a receptacle there.
You could use a switch, if you want alternative means of turning the light off.

Another idea would be to use a timer instead of the photo sensor in the lamp. Install an in-wall timer into the box where the lamp wiring connects to the indoor wiring.

Hope this helps

FW


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

The wirenuts i was planning to use were waterproof...they were filled with a gel that hardens when you use them, but anyway...

Thanks for all the info. A few more follow-up questions.

1. What about rigid PVC conduit? Easy to put together, cheap, light....is that still 6" depth? 

2. The outlet that was being used for the lamp is not a GFCI outlet...I assume I should put one of those in instead?

3. Ground wire....it should be wrapped around a scre connected to the lamppost, and then wired to the ground on the fixture?

4. What's the best way to protect the wire as it exits the conduit and enters the lamp? Would just running UF cable through the conduit solve this problem? 

5. I'm not familiar with different types of wire....the current wire is #12 Underground rated cable, which is attached to a plug. I guess it does make sense to get rid of the current outlet, replace it with a switch on a J-box, and route the THHN wires right into it. If those wires are too rigid to get around the switch, I can put some wire nuts and connect it to some of that #14 cord you mentioned, then to the switch. Is that what you meant?

I did think about using a timer, but the photo sensor makes so much more sense to me since I never have to adjust it for change of sunset/sunrise or daylight savings. 


I think that's it, for now. I'll probably have more questions, but I am getting pretty clear on this. Thanks so much for the advice.


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

KE2KB said:


> Good decision. Besides, I think you would need more than just wirenuts. The wires themselves have to be protected from the soil, so some sort of sleeving must be used over the entire splice.
> 
> NEC 2005, 300.5 says the following regarding depth of the cable:
> 
> ...


So do you just go by the code where you feel like it? A sleeve of conduit acts as a juction box? Direct burial cable has to be 24" deep but rigid is 6". How do you make the trasition from 24 to 6? 
I had to fix a cable underground going to a pool pump a month ago. I had them dig a new trench and I ran a new cable. Save you from having to dig it up in a few years because it went bad. Just go ahead and do it right.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

jbberns said:


> So do you just go by the code where you feel like it? A sleeve of conduit acts as a juction box? Direct burial cable has to be 24" deep but rigid is 6". How do you make the trasition from 24 to 6?
> I had to fix a cable underground going to a pool pump a month ago. I had them dig a new trench and I ran a new cable. Save you from having to dig it up in a few years because it went bad. Just go ahead and do it right.



I'm not quite sure what you're suggesting here...


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> I'm not quite sure what you're suggesting here...


You are what we call a slop artist. You follow the code on a few things but on most of it you go against the code. 

Nec 90.1 (C) Intention. This Code is not intended as a design specification or an instruction manual for untrained persons.

You don't sound like you have much training!


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

I do not have any training, which is why I am posting my questions here. I am just a little confused with your response above. I did not make any references to code, I merely asked some questions.

I have no problem with criticism, as I like to know when I am doing things incorrectly, but I think we should check our name-calling at the playground.


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> I'm not quite sure what you're suggesting here...


Sorry, I was referring to ke2kb. I understand that you were just looking help.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

Okay lets start at the beginning. You have a post light wired with 12 UF cable plugged into an outlet, correct?


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

jbberns said:


> So do you just go by the code where you feel like it? A sleeve of conduit acts as a juction box? Direct burial cable has to be 24" deep but rigid is 6". How do you make the trasition from 24 to 6?
> I had to fix a cable underground going to a pool pump a month ago. I had them dig a new trench and I ran a new cable. Save you from having to dig it up in a few years because it went bad. Just go ahead and do it right.


I'm not sure what you're criticizing me for here.
I only stated the code because the OP was asking for advice on how to bury a cable.
Code states different depths for different types of conduit/cable. The code is based on safety. A rigid metal conduit is much less likely to be damaged by a shovel, etc compared to a NM UF type cable. That is the reason for the varying depth requirements.
I was suggesting that the OP go with the RMC over direct-burial NM because digging a 24" trench is a lot more difficult that digging a 6" one.

I can't see how you are accusing me of going with code "when I feel like it". I always follow code, but sometimes may be a little confused as to which section of the code my application applies to, and will rectify this before I start a job.
I think you are jumpint to errant conclusions here. You think you can read my mind, but you cannot. Perhaps I wasn't as clear in my post as I should have been, that's all.

What are you talking about "a sleeve of conduit"?
Who said anything about just a sleeve? I think you may be gettinc confused with what I said about sleeving over the buried splice, and a whole new installation using conduit.

I thought I was being helpful, since I do have a copy of the 2005 (and an un-searchable PDF of the 2008) codes.

FW


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> Okay lets start at the beginning. You have a post light wired with 12 UF cable plugged into an outlet, correct?


Correct, and I want to rewire the whole thing in conduit. My original plan was to just use 12UF cable inside PVC conduit, that way the wire is protected if I need to exit the conduit to enter the lamp. I may try and run the conduit right into the post if I can.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

secutanudu said:


> The wirenuts i was planning to use were waterproof...they were filled with a gel that hardens when you use them, but anyway...
> 
> Thanks for all the info. A few more follow-up questions.
> 
> ...


I was only quoting code because I thought it would be helpful, and rather than just making a statement, since I have a copy of the 2005 code I looked it up.
As far as type of conduit, the particular code I quoted made mention only of Rigid Metal Conduit.
I will look further if it will be of any help to you. You can also DL a copy of the current code for your locality on the web. That's where I got mine. Free, and searchable.

You are not required to have this circuit protected by a GFCI, unless there is a receptacle outdoors.
The only reason I stated the GFCI is that code allows type NM (UF) cable to be buried with less cover if it is GFCI protected and on 20A or lower breaker.

As for the wire-nuts you are talking about;
My point was that I believe the entire splice, including wire nuts, exposed wire should be covered with a sleeve that will protect it from the soil.
Perhaps the wire nuts alone are OK for outdoor wiring that is not buried, but I cannot imagine just allowing a buried splice with the outer jacket missing, and wires just buried directly with wire nuts, whether the nuts are approved for the purpose or not.
The splice kit I was referring to consists of wire nuts plus heat-shrinkable tubing which is itself rated for direct burial.

This splice type is however NOT permitted inside walls, ceilings, etc. In that case you would need a junction box.
The difference being that heat generated by the underground splice will not likely result in a fire, just loss of voltage, where in the walls, fire is much more likely.

I hope that I have not completely confused you. My intentions in this and every other forum I belong to are always based on attempting to help, not to create confusion or disagreeance.

FW


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

KE2KB said:


> I thought I was being helpful, since I do have a copy of the 2005 (and an un-searchable PDF of the 2008) codes.
> 
> FW


Forget him, you are being helpful. Two things though, the wire needs to be THWN or dual rated for both and the OP has to hard wire or transition to SJ. UF/ NM/Romex is not listed for plugs to my knowledge.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

First of all, KE2KB, thanks very much for all of the help and advice you are offering. I know that you are not trying to create confusion or disagreence.

That being said, I will also verify this with my town building dept. before i proceed. 

If it is all the same, I will just use undeground rated wire within the conduit. It is not that expensive and if it does somehow come in contact with soil (though I will try to avoid it) then at least it is protected. Does this make sense?

You are not completely confusing me, I am just unfamiliar with all the acronyms and abbreviations when referring to different wire types. 

My plan is to just replace the outlet that to which the lamp is wired with a GFCI outlet just to be safe, as it can't hurt (unless I forget to turn off the electricity first )

My basic plan at this point is to do this:




Use PVC (if i can) or metal (if i must) conduit with underground-rated wire inside
Dig a new trench as deep as I am required to (I will call my town for this info about each type of rigid conduit)
Attach a plug to the end of the wire that enters the basement (like it is now)
Replace the current receptacle with a GFCI one
Attach the fixture to the underground wiring with waterproof wire nuts inside the post
Attach a photo sensor and bulb at the fixture
Post my success story here on the forums and thank everyone for their input
Lay on the couch and watch tv 
Anything about this seem unsafe or obviously wrong?


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> My basic plan at this point is to do this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hope this helps.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> Hope this helps.


It does, thanks.

So I could run the underground wire into the basement, then to a switch, then to a GFCI outet, and eliminate the plug, right?


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> Hope this helps.


It does, thanks.

So I could run the underground wire into the basement, then to a switch, then to a GFCI outet, and eliminate the plug, right?

The code does not mention how deep I need to dig the trench if I use PVC conduit. Is 12" still necessary, or can I use the 6" depth? I guess 12" is necessary since metal rigid is the only thing listed for 6". How do you connect the ends of metal rigid conduit? I've never worked with it.


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

PVC is 18". table 300.5 
best choice


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

jbberns said:


> PVC is 18". table 300.5
> best choice


Ouch - an 18" deep trench? Metal conduit at 6" seems like a better option.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

jbberns said:


> PVC is 18". table 300.5
> best choice


 Look at column 4 in the chart. GFCI residential 20 amp circuit not under a driveway.


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

Yes, running rigid pipe underground is less of a ditch. I would run pvc myself.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> Ouch - an 18" deep trench? Metal conduit at 6" seems like a better option.


6" if metal/rigid conduit or 12" GFCI protected, for any wiring method except rigid which is less.


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

Code05 said:


> Look at column 4 in the chart. GFCI residential 20 amp circuit not under a driveway.


Yes, save 6". You are right


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## jbberns (Jul 1, 2009)

Rigid requires bending and threading. Tough when running in a ditch. Go with pvc.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

I just got a call back from one of my town's electrical inspectors. He said I should do 18" if I use PVC, i could get away with 14-15". He said the hassle of the extra digging is not as much as the hassle of using metal conduit.

He also mentioned that I should use 1" conduit to allow for some heat dissipation.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Oh, and he said I could get away going a little less deep if I use schedule 80 conduit, though I don't know where to get it.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

Thanks CodeO5;

Sorry about that; THWN, not THHN.
Also, I would agree with CodeO5 and don't use the plug. Just hard-wire to the receptacle's terminals, or use pigtails. If you use a GFCI, make sure you wire the feed wires to LINE, and the wires to the light to the LOAD terminals.
Be sure to connect all ground wires, and bond to the box if it is metallic.
Also, check the breaker size. If it's 20A, you will have to run #12 wire. For a 15A, you can use #14.

If you really want to use a plug, you will need to transition as CodeO5 stated, into SJ cord in a j-box. IMO, it's not worth doing that. Just hard-wire.

And one more thing that no one mentioned. Before you dig, call the 1-800 number to have underground plumbing/electrical marked off.
It's the law in NJ, and I'm sure in most other states as well.

FW


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Good idea about the 1-800 number.

THe outlet that the old wire was plugged into is not at the end of the circuit. I'm not too familiar with installing new receptacles enough to know how to direct wire a light fixture to an outlet that's in the middle of a circuit. I have replaced an outlet before, but never installed a new one.

That's why it seemed easier to use the plug, and simply replace the outlet with a GFCI one. 

Is it easy to direct wire?


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

You know, for underground splices someone makes a clam-shell plastic housing that you put the splice in, then you force some compound into that shell that becomes a rubbery blob, then you remove the plastic shell.
Weatherproof, waterproof, etc.


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## InPhase277 (Feb 9, 2008)

Pretty sure the "Call Before You Dig" guys only locate utilities. They ain't gonna help you find the wiring to your post light.:no:


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

InPhase277 said:


> Pretty sure the "Call Before You Dig" guys only locate utilities. They ain't gonna help you find the wiring to your post light.:no:



I know that  I just don't want to hit my water pipe, which is the only pipe that runs through the yard. No gas to my house, and all the electric and telcom wires are above ground.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

secutanudu said:


> I know that  I just don't want to hit my water pipe, which is the only pipe that runs through the yard. No gas to my house, and all the electric and telcom wires are above ground.


Here in NJ, where temps get down to below 0F some winters, the water lines are at least 48" below the surface. Probably deeper in colder regions, and maybe not so deep in warm ones.

Here is how to wire the pigtail for the receptacle. Note that in this illustration, there is no ground wire going to the box itself. The box used for the illustration is plastic, which does not require it.
If you have a metallic box, add another pigtail to the ground (so you have two), and secure it to the back of the box using the green ground screw.
If there is not a screw, there should be a threaded hole for one. You can buy ground screws at any electrical supply, hardware, or home improvement store.









Note 1:
If you are going to use a GFCI receptacle, you may want to install it in the 1st position on the run so that all of the receptacles downstream plus your outdoor light will be protected.

Note 2: Check the following url for box-fill limitations. http://www.frentzandsons.com/Hardware References/numberofwiresinabox.htm

There is a maximum number of wires that can be run into any box, depending on its size (volume), the wire size, whether or not there is a device (a receptacle or switch) in the box, and whether or not there are internal cable connectors. The ones that usually come with metallic boxes are considered internal, while those you buy separately, punch a knockout hole and install from the outside of the box are not counted as internal connectors.

Also note that GFCI receptacles take up a lot more space than do standard ones, so if you are just making the box-fill limit, you may not be able to fit the GFCI into the box after it's all stuffed in.
You need to lay your wires in neatly, to avoid using up more space than necessary.

If you decide to go with the plug idea to avoid all of this, just make sure you use an approved junction box to transition between the UF cable and the cord to the plug.
Use SJ, 3-wire cord. I would not use a wire smaller than that which you use for the underground run to the lamp.

FW


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Wow...thanks. That is a ton of good info. Ideally, I would just replace the outlet that I currently have with a GFCI outlet, then splice in a switch using the  pigtail method in the picture you posted, then wire the lamp to the other side of the switch. Does that make sense?

The junction box holding the outlet I plan to replace is very small, it only has room for one outlet. Ideally, I would just replac this with a big J-Box that can hold an outlet and a switch, and stuff the pigtails in behind it. This would mean I'd have three 3-conductor wires coming out of the box...the source, the output to the lamp, and the output to the interior of the house. Is this too much, should I separate the switch to its own j-box?

Since I will be buying a new j-box (or 2), should they be plastic or metal?

Here are some pictures of the situation in the basement, along with the old wire with the plug on it. The small outlet is the one I want to replace. Actually, the box with two outlets right next to it could probably go also, There's no need for 6 outlets right there. THe J-box on the right is plastic.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Oh, and I live in upstate NY, so I'm not too worried about the water pipe. My meter is about 3" above the basement floor, which is about 5' underground. I just got a message from another town inspector who said I only have to go 12" deep if I use GFCI protection, and that I only need conduit where it comes up out of the ground. I will use conduit the whole run, though.


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## Ultrarunner2017 (Oct 1, 2008)

If you want to put a receptacle and switch in the same box, I think you can use a double-gang plastic outlet box.
Get one that is fairly deep, to accomodate the wiring.
I would definitely use a "new work" plastic box. Since you have exposed studs, nailing it in is simple.

All cables coming into the box must be secured within 12" of the box, and at 4-1/2ft intervals between boxes. Use insulated NM type cable staples to avoid damage to the cables. 

I notice that the box-fill tables apply to metallic boxes. I didn't see one specifically for plastic.
In any case, you are much safer using plastic. No worry about anything shorting to the box.

As for the GFCI, I would definitely install it as the 1st receptacle on the run. Not only will that protect all of the receptacles downstream, but it will allow you to use a standard receptacle in the box with your switch, and the wires to outside. As I said before, GFCI's take a lot of room in the box, making wiring more difficult.

Just make sure you wire the downstream receptacles to the LOAD terminals. If you need to, use pigtails on the downstream wires from the GFCI to feed another receptacle in the same box.
(I noticed that you have two receptacles mounted in one box; not sure if this is the 1st on the run or not)

I would assume that you are going to get an inspection for this work. It is required in most localities, and since you have already contacted your local code person, it would be wise to do so.
It is always a good idea to check other work in the area that your new work was done, so the inspector doesn't find some other violation to nail you on. 

FW


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Any idea how much an inspection for work like this costs, or is it usually free?

I'll just replace the first outlet in the run with a gfci one. Then, I can pigtail off of any outlet later in the run to my lamp and it will be protected, right?

Also, what type of wire should I use for pigtails & internal wiring?


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> Any idea how much an inspection for work like this costs, or is it usually free?
> 
> The inspection fee is included in your permit. You did get a permit, right?
> 
> ...


Where is this room? Is it a unfinished basement or garage?


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

KE2KB said:


> If you want to put a receptacle and switch in the same box, I think you can use a double-gang plastic outlet box.
> Get one that is fairly deep, to accomodate the wiring.
> I would definitely use a "new work" plastic box. Since you have exposed studs, nailing it in is simple.
> 
> ...


Nice work on your answers.:thumbsup:


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Thanks again to all. That room is an unfinished part of the basement.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> Thanks again to all. That room is an unfinished part of the basement.


 Are going to finish it?


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

I didn't get a permit, I talked to 2 different inspectors and they both told me how to do it with no mention of getting a permit...is it certain that I would need one, or is it possible my town doesn't require it?



Code05 said:


> Are going to finish it?


No, the rest of the basement is finished, this is in the boiler room/workshop area. It will never get finished.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> I didn't get a permit, I talked to 2 different inspectors and they both told me how to do it with no mention of getting a permit...is it certain that I would need one, or is it possible my town doesn't require it?


Possible, but highly unlikely. You need to double check. They may have assumed you were getting one. The purpose of getting a permit is so that you can get an inspection.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Ok, I will call the town back, thanks.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> No, the rest of the basement is finished, this is in the boiler room/workshop area. It will never get finished.


All general purpose receptacles in this room need GFCI protection. How many others besides the ones shown are there and are they all on the same circuit?


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

Looking back at your photos you are going to have to think about getting rid of receptacles and boxes. those recs. look to be in the middle of the circuit. Do know which way the circuit is running?


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

I believe the circuit is running right to left in the pictures. I have no problem removing some of those outlets, they never get used anyway.

But why would I need to?


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

secutanudu said:


> Here are some pictures of the situation in the basement, along with the old wire with the plug on it. The small outlet is the one I want to replace. Actually, the box with two outlets right next to it could probably go also, There's no need for 6 outlets right there. THe J-box on the right is plastic.


You mentioned it. Not removing them is the easiest, thats why I brought it up.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

I have to go. I will be back later. there are a few other things I want to go over.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> I have to go. I will be back later. there are a few other things I want to go over.


I'll be here! Thanks again.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> All general purpose receptacles in this room need GFCI protection. How many others besides the ones shown are there and are they all on the same circuit?


I just noticed this. I am going out now to buy a GFCI outlet, and I will replace the first outlet on the circuit with it. There is one more outlet in that room, on a different circuit. I can replace that one too. 

All the ones shown in my pictures are on the same circuit, so I will jsut replace the first one with GFCI. Thanks.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Yes, as long as the 1st one is GFCI & the rest are fed off the LOAD side of the GFCI
You are not required to retrofit GFCI ect to meet todays code on pre-exisiting installations
BUT, it's a very good idea & inexpensive
It's one of the 1st things I did in my basement


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

I just replaced the first in the run with a GFCI. I bought all the stuff I need to make my branch for the lamp post, but the wirenuts are only big enough for 2x12gauge wires...I need one big enough for 3...doh! Good excuse to stop for the evening. I'm just thankful my TV isn't on that circuit, since it's off for the night


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

Sorry taking so long to reply. As stated by another member you do have to upgrade existing installations unless you work on them, However GFCI in the proper areas is a good idea and will please the inspector. 

Now:
1. What supplies did you buy? Wire size and insulation? Pipe and fittings?
2. How do propose to penetrate the exterior wall and pipe down the wall? What is the exterior finish?
3. How and where are you going to tie the wire into in the house?
4. What do plan to do with the old receptacle? You have some stapling issues you need to address.

If you can answer these I will be happy to continue to offer any advice that you may find useful. I have a couple ideas and I will draw out a diagram later and post. I need to go mow the grass.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> Sorry taking so long to reply. As stated by another member you do have to upgrade existing installations unless you work on them, However GFCI in the proper areas is a good idea and will please the inspector.
> 
> Now:
> 1. What supplies did you buy? Wire size and insulation? Pipe and fittings?
> ...



Thanks again for all the advice, it is very much appreciated.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

In this photo the wire going into the double gang box on the right needs a staple. The wire going from the top of the double gang box needs a staple. Both of the wires going into the single gang box need staples. The wire between the boxes is going to have to be replaced to accomplish this. This the receptacle I am talking about. 

Regarding the new cable coming into the house, you cannot redo the floating cable with a plug on the end. The cable will have to be terminated and secured properly.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Oh, of course. I am getting rid of the cable coming into the wall and replacing it with a new one. I will secure it along the foundation and as it turns to the wall. I didn't realize I needed staples for the other outlets, though. So you need one as a wire enters or exits a box? I guess that makes sense.


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## Code05 (May 24, 2009)

Yes you need to staple, and securing the new wire against the foundation and turning into the wall will not pass inspection either. I will draw out what will pass tomorrow.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Code05 said:


> Yes you need to staple, and securing the new wire against the foundation and turning into the wall will not pass inspection either. I will draw out what will pass tomorrow.


Looking forward to it,thanks.


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

Well I did some work today, and while it probably isn't up to code as far as stapling goes, it works, so at least I am making the connections properly.

I got a 4"x4" j-box and did the splice. So I have 1 incoming feed, and two branches coming out. One continues on to the rest of the circuit, one goes to another 1-gang box with a switch. I hooked up a bulb socket temporarily to the switch, and it works perfectly. Thanks for all the advice!


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## secutanudu (Mar 15, 2009)

How do I go about securing the new wire along the foundation? I planned to continue the conduit along the foundation wall and turn it in towards the switch along the studs, that way no wire is directly up against the foundation.


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