# 2nd Floor Subfloor Replacement, HELP!



## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*Pictures for previous post*

*To follow up...here are a few pictures of my "mess". :thumbsup: *


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Hi Leah,
I think I understand what you are asking. You are saying that you need to have something to screw the new plywood into along the edge of the room...
If I am seeing this correctly, There is a 2x4 and a piece of blocking near the right side of the bathtub...thats what you need to do. When I did my bathroom subfloor I used joist hangers to "block" pieces of 2x10's (that is the size of the joists) between the joists so I had something to screw the new subfloor to. You can then add blocking within the blocking to run 2x's parallel to the joist along the wall. My carpenter friend said that in areas where there is alot of plumbing or other obstacles you can get creative...if you have to use 2x6 or whatver thats fine. 
I found this picture on a image search for you. Not the greatest work but this is the idea.

http://www.colantonio.net/home/kitchen-floor-20.jpg

Note the 2x4's along the edge of the wall that facilitate attaching the subfloor...use 2x6 if feasable.
Let me know if that helps and if Im even barking up the right tree.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

leahjane10 said:


> * I have most of it figured out, however I need to know how I will secure the new subfloor when the new floor will go right up to the framing for the next rooms. How does that work?!?!?*
> 
> 
> 
> *Leah in MN*


Will the tub be removed?

"Sister" on another 2x4 or 2x6 to the current floor joist that you are unable get enough area to nail the sub floor to.


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

From what I can see in the last picture, the tub is already out, no?


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

LJ,

When you nail the sister board on, use 16d nails or 3" screws (which might be easier) along with some construction adhesive if possible. Two nails every 16 inches should be fine for long runs.

I've used joist hangers as well when applicable.

And off topic, what happened to your other project? I was following you on another thread in March or April and I never found out what happened with that.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

KenTheHandyMan said:


> From what I can see in the last picture, the tub is already out, no?


I think that you are correct.
I glanced at the last photo and thought it was from a different angle.


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

If sistering with a 2x doesnt recess too far under the wall and allows for a good amount of space to screw then that is fine. In my bathroom floor it didnt quite make it...For yours, I cant really tell from the picture.. If not, you will have to block and then add a 2x along the wall as stated before.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

KenTheHandyMan said:


> LJ,
> 
> And off topic, what happened to your other project? I was following you on another thread in March or April and I never found out what happened with that.


It appears to be the same project.
Work in progress.
She has made good progress for not doing a task like this before.

I am hoping she has another bathroom to use while this one is being remodeled


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*Well, heck. I was hoping that nobody would remember the posts from last winter since I have obviously not done much since then. Haha. I put it on hold because I wasn't sure how to get that subfloor in. That, and summer arrived in Minnesota, which means that worked on other projects outside. *

*Since I was at a standstill with the project, my father-in-law said he would work on it. He is so incredibly sweet do this for me, but the way he did it made the floor uneven (don't ask) and even though I am not very experienced in this kind of thing, I know that it just isn't "right" and would cause problems if I keep it as is. It seems that it won't be a terrible pain to do what you have told me. *

*THANKS for the advice. I honestly couldn't do this if it wasn't for people like you that are willing to help! *

*Leah*

*P.S. I was able to quickly learn how to install a toilet...because I needed one in my "other" bathroom a few months ago. I am glad that it was a pretty easy thing to do!*


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*P.S. Dougrus...That picture is EXACTLY the visual that I needed. Many thanks - I will also show this to my father-in-law (after I somehow break it to him that I am going to rip out the work he did).*

*Leah :thumbup: *


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Glad to help :thumbsup: 

Good Luck!


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

leahjane10 said:


> * He is so incredibly sweet do this for me, but the way he did it made the floor uneven (don't ask) and even though I am not very experienced in this kind of thing, I know that it just isn't "right" and would cause problems if I keep it as is. It seems that it won't be a terrible pain to do what you have told me. *
> 
> Better to do it right the first time even if it takes a little bit longer time.:thumbsup:
> 
> ...



Once you get the floor down the rest should seem to be "easier".

What type of floor are you going to put down? (ceramic tile, vinyl, laminate...)


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*I am planning on ceramic tile.* :thumbsup:


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Was there ceramic tile on the previous floor before you started the remodel?

How thick was the plywood on the old floor?

How thick will the new plywood be?


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

I'm assuming you've done your research about backer board etc...


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*Yep - I tiled the entryway last spring. *

*The original subfloor was only 1/2". There was also an 1/2" particle- board type of underlayment that looks like it was installed when the house was built.*

*Leah*


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

Will you be taking the opportunity of raising the toilet flange to account for the new floor height? Assuming here that your'e going with 3/4" ply and 1/2" backer board. They do sell a 1/4" backerboard, but I've never put that on floors.


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## dougrus (Sep 16, 2006)

Good to remind her of that Ken. Too many people just go ahead and tile right over the plywood...not good.
1/4" Hardibacker is ideal for floors, as that is its intended application (they dont recommend it for walls). Light, easy to cut, has a screw matrix so you do an appropriate number of screws.
For the backerboard be sure you thinset and screw the backerboard into place. This is an important step that should not be overlooked.
Good luck. :thumbsup:


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*I used Hardibacker when I did the entryway. I used it because I liked the grid layout telling me where to put the screws. I suppose that I also liked it because it was thinner (and being a girl, it seemed "neat & tidy", ha.)*

*So, as long as you brought it up, lol...what will I need to do with the toilet flange to raise it up? It's level with the floor now, but with cement board it won't be, obviously. I have heard that people use double wax rings - is that advisable? *

*(I have so many questions!) :whistling2: *

*Leah*


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

Is the plywood actually down now?

What I do in a situation like this is cut the section of pipe with the flange off (just above the elbow) and put a coupler on and another section of pipe. Then cut that so that once the plywood and backer are in place, I can slip the new flange on. An important thing to mention here is you do NOT want to change the fall of the plumbing, unless you are giving it a bit more fall. 

The double ring _is_ done. I'm not going to recommend it at this phase of the project, but I'm working on a bathroom right now where the floor is in place and I'm probably going to have to do that.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Is the drain line for the toilet made of cast iron or pvc?


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

_That *IS *_a good question.


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*I believe that it is cast iron. (Stupid question, is all PVC white?)*

*Why would it matter what the material is? *

*Leah*


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## KenTheHandyMan (Sep 1, 2005)

Not all PVC is white. ABS Plastic is usually dark grey/black. The reason it matters is because of the difficulty with which making changes to it is possibly. Try to find out for sure as recommendations will likely change based on the pipe material.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Cast iron is harder to cut and solder but a hubless connector will make an easier transition. Cast iron reduces the noise as water is draining thru it. PVC is easier to cut and glue together but you may hear the water rushing thru it.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

leahjane10 said:


> *I am planning on ceramic tile.* :thumbsup:



Did the tile go down yet?


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## Tommy Plumb (Oct 7, 2006)

KenTheHandyMan said:


> The double ring _is_ done. I'm not going to recommend it at this phase of the project, but I'm working on a bathroom right now where the floor is in place and I'm probably going to have to do that.


As you said, ideally you want to raise up the flange. Failing that though, I'd use a flange extender before a thicker ring. You may want to go on over to the plumbing forum for the flange questions, their are some plumbers there who will help you.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Any photos of the finished job?


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Wonder if this project was finished?


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

Work in progress.:thumbsup:


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## leahjane10 (Jan 2, 2006)

*Latest pics*

*Redline,*

*Here are the pictures that I took last night. The flash was really bright, but rather dark without it. (Keep in mind that I am still going to remove the floor that is still where the bathtub was.) Let me know what you think!*

*Leah*


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

(in the last photo)

There is the stud that is in between the toilet water supply and then it runs along to the shower, how far does the plywood with the curved cut extend out from the joist ? 


It appears to be around an 1"?



You may be able to nail/screw (2) cut down 2x 6's parallel to the joist that is under the wall in order to get a nailing surface for your sub floor.

It all depends on if it will extend beyond the old floor.


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## redline (Mar 5, 2006)

leahjane10 said:


> .. (Keep in mind that I am still going to remove the floor that is still where the bathtub was.) Leah


If the plywood is not damaged where the tub is then you could leave it but that is up to you.

You may need to leave a small section open when you make the connects below the tub and then install that section last.


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