# Removing bracing studs(?) from attic trusses



## Ebby920 (Aug 19, 2014)

I built a loft about 3 feet below the existing ceiling of my garage for additional storage & removed the ceiling drywall so that I would have head room into the attic space. I have attached photos of some studs that I would like to remove that seem to me like they are only there as a means of stabilization as the roof was being built in 1991. I would like to remove the studs that I highlighted in yellow (one photo is so you can see the studs clearly, the other is with the yellow lines over the studs in question). This house is in central Iowa, so we do have occasional threat of high winds and tornadoes. Removing these studs would make it easier to move around in the space, but if it means that my roof may be sucked off the garage more easily in a storm, I would leave them. Am I safe to remove them?? Thanks


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I don't want to sound too insulting, but you really don't seem to have any idea why its structured like that and should not touch it. All those triangular shapes in the trusses is what give it strength.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

And that area was never intended to be used for storage.
Remove anything and and the whole struture is at risk.


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## Jnaas2 (Mar 29, 2014)

Don't remove the braces they are there to keep the trusses from deflecting and collapsing.


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## Ebby920 (Aug 19, 2014)

I took a photo of what I built, which is basically a deck supported by LVL and joists 3 feet BELOW the bottom of the rafters. The garage had a 12' ceiling, so I'm utilizing the space above the 8' mark... and that's why I said I wanted this space open for HEAD ROOM... not for additional storage. The whole reason I posted this was to get some insight about those few 8' 2x4s. I know they are used to stabilize trusses for nailing down roof sheeting, just wasn't sure whether they were necessary to keep in place after the sheeting is nailed down. The 2 you see centered on the far end are not repeated on the opposite side. Why would they need to remain on one end for support but not the other? Makes me think they were only necessary for assembling the structure so they could get the roof sheeting in place. I've never built an entire structure before, just interior work. Other DIYers with interior framing experience that I've asked have said they believe it would be safe to remove them, but not their expertise either. That was rather insulting as if I'm asking whether they're there for the heck of it... I am still pretty confident that they are imperative to keep the trusses spaced 24" prior to sheeting. If that would be the ONLY reason to have them there, I am simply asking about how important it is to keep them. Doesn't that make sense? There are only about eight 8' 2x4s that I wanted to remove, as they are only tacked in across the trusses and rafters which are now secured in place by other means. They aren't attached to anything else.


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## ryansdiydad (Aug 16, 2015)

SPS-1 said:


> I don't want to sound too insulting, but you really don't seem to have any idea why its structured like that and should not touch it. All those triangular shapes in the trusses is what give it strength._Unnecessary remark removed_.


Post deleted, violated forum rules. Mod


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## Ebby920 (Aug 19, 2014)

Thanks, Jnaas2 - That is the simple answer I was looking for... excellent explanation of why they are necessary to keep. So anchoring them with hundreds of nails through sheeting and having them anchored to the top plate of the walls is not enough. Just more head bump obstacles then, but worth it to not have it collapse.


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## Trapper6 (Nov 25, 2015)

Ebby, the only thing I see that you can change is the end truss brace which is the piece in the middle that runs from high on the end truss to the floor. You can safely move that to the web members but must maintain an angle between 45 and 60 degrees or it's useless. It can be nailed to the web members using a 3" nail/screw minimum. We see that spec on a lot of panel wall/truss frames. This brace is for rack control and keeps wind from pushing the entire truss system over. It's not something you can pull out and forget. Your trusses having a 2x 4 bottom chord are not rated to hold any load at all for attic storage. Noting the truss plate at the one side indicates NO LOAD in that span in particular.
FWIW, in my area, the end truss brace would not pass inspection. It appears to be flatter than the required angle and it is not T-backed. While not quite worthless, it adds little to the rack control.


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## Ebby920 (Aug 19, 2014)

Trapper6 - an even more thorough answer! That end pair is actually the biggest nuisance when I'm moving around in that 3' space below and attempt to stand up, forgetting that there is a stud running perpendicular to the rafters there. I may consider moving it as you suggested... although I probably won't spend as much time up there in the next couple years as I've spent up there just building the loft. As I said before, the attic space is just for head room. The loft I built 3 feet below is structurally independent of the trusses and the storage load will all sit on the floor of the loft. Thanks again for the suggestion!


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## AndyGump (Sep 26, 2010)

Except for the 2 x's that are on either side of the truss webbing that doesn't look like any permanent truss bracing I have ever seen.

If it is really important you can contact the building designer and ask why they felt the bracing was needed. The architect and not the truss manufacturer is usually the one to call out the design on the permanent bracing.

Andy.

P.S. I am not at all saying that it is not needed just that it is in a different configuration from what I have seen and installed before.


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## ront02769 (Nov 28, 2008)

The ones coming in perpendicular to the gable end can go, no question. Just one of several ways to anchor and straighten the gable end. Ron


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## Mingledtrash (Nov 27, 2015)

sorry ront02769 but that brace may not be removed as per the current truss engineering standards it is required please see permanent bracing _page_ _62_ _figure B3-34 _of the BCSI truss installation booklet link below
_page 61 figure B3-32_ show illustration of why.

It would be nice if the mods would sticky your pic with the yellow lines saying *Do not remove these braces without consulting an engineer.

*here is the truss installation packet that we are currently using
http://support.sbcindustry.com/docs/06_BCSI_booklet_FINAL.pdf


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