# Concrete patio or pergola first?



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

The post should be sitting on footings that are below the frost line, and sitting on post bases, not buried in the ground.
Bury them and there going to rot out over time.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Yes use post bases to get the posts up off the concrete, as well as not buried. 

They will rot in time and then your pergola will be in the neighbors yard damaging their property or worse someone. 

Sorry for the warning being graphic, but sometimes it has to be to get the point across. 

ED


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## gante (Jan 17, 2008)

Ok, thank you for the reply. The post bases are the metal brackets to hold the post to the floor, correct? Do I still need footings (concrete cube?) sitting below the frost line if the post is to sit on a post base bolted to the solid patio concrete floor? 
Sorry in advance for my ignorance with the terms. I just want to make sure I get this right the first time.
I thought that in many cases in TV they would buried the post on the ground... I need to pay better attention to those details! Thank you for the help.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

At least 90% of those DIY shows on TV are for entertainment only and are worthless in real life. 
No one walks into a house and uses a sledge hammer to remove cabinets.
It takes more then 1/2 hour to tile a bathroom or build a deck.
They skip over way to many important steps.

A post base will hold the post up off the concrete so it's not wicking up water.
Another big mistake I always see on DIY pergola's is trying to use 4 X 4's for post. 
There often going to twist, curl and are to thin to be notched and double though bolted.


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## Canarywood1 (May 5, 2012)

And seal the end grain of the posts with paraffin.


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## concretemasonry (Oct 10, 2006)

gante -

Two questions: 1) where in the world are you living and what is the frodt depth? 2) is the pergola free-standing or is it attached to a structure like a house or shed.

Personally, I think 6x6 is best from an appearance standpoint. Make sure that pergola, if free-standing has enough lateral resistance since the wind can do strange things.

Dick


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## freeclimbmtb (Aug 4, 2012)

I have a similar question/project, but in my case the patio will be pavers not a slab. I want to do mine in 2 stages, patio first, then later, pergola. From the sounds of it, the only way to do it is to set the footings for the posts, THEN install the patio pavers, and lastly put up the pergola... (in my case I am in New Hampshire, so I'll need a solid 4 feet to get below the frost line.)


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

freeclimbmtb: Looks like you got it down right. As I see a statement not a question. 

All the best of luck with it. The rule of the P's is in order here. 

Prior Proper Planning Prevents Poor Projects. 


ED


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## freeclimbmtb (Aug 4, 2012)

de-nagorg said:


> freeclimbmtb: Looks like you got it down right. As I see a statement not a question.
> 
> All the best of luck with it. The rule of the P's is in order here.
> 
> ...


 
Correct...I was more thinking out lound than asking a question, just looking for confirmation I was on the right train of thought thats all. Thanks.


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## cleveman (Dec 17, 2011)

It would be nice if you put your location in your profile.

I would carefully lay out the sonotube locations first, and pour them. Make sure that their elevation is well above the elevation of the future patio.

Now put some expansion joint around the sonotubes and pour your patio.

It would be nice for screeding purposes if you could dig the holes for the sonotubes, then cap them off and pour over the holes, then expose them again, but I can't think of any way to make this work neatly. You'll just have to pour and finish the concrete around them.

It will amaze you how flimsy your structure will be until you put some 45 degree bracing going both ways in each corner of the pergola.


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