# Hydronic baseboard mounted to concrete wall



## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Again, Im sorry for not having pictures to better explain my question. I was thinking maybe I can attach a 90 deg off of the pipe that come up out of the floor pointing out away from the wall. (would have to do this on both ends of the heater) and bring it out an inch or so, just enough to bring it outside of the drywall once its installed. than put another 90 pointing up to attach to the heater on both ends. 

Not sure if this should be in the plumbing forum instead.... I am comfortable cutting and soldering copper pipes but have never opened up a forced hot water heating system. I just worry about bleeding it afterwards. I need to replace the expansion tank at the furnace anyway, so I could do it at the same time.

Any thoughts?


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## TheEplumber (Jul 20, 2010)

I think you need to move it out. Might be a challenge. Please try to get a picture up.


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Heres some pics


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Im also wondering id just the one radiator on the striped wall is enough for that room. Its a small bedroom. Maybe 8x15 lr so.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

A couple of reasons you should move it out. 1. You can then fur out the wall and insulate and finish properly. 2. When it's out from the wall it gives you the opportunity to connect to the existing lines in case you need to add another unit for additional heat.:yes:


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Ok, just thinking about this.... Would it be possible to cut the pipe as close to the floor as I can to fit a sharkbite 90 and build it out that way? 

I was also thinking about chiseling out some of the floor and putting a 90 below the surface and cementing back in. If its to tight o solder, could I use the sharkbite and seal that in the cement?


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

In my opinion I would not use sharkbites in cases where heat and thermal expansion are a constant condition. Stick to conventional soldering for the copper fittings. And as far a cutting the tubing, allow yourself enough room to work.


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## tylernt (Jul 5, 2012)

Maine1 said:


> Im also wondering id just the one radiator on the striped wall is enough for that room. Its a small bedroom. Maybe 8x15 lr so.


Hard to say unless you've lived in the room for a while... how much heat the baseboard puts out depends on how well the heating system is balanced and how energy efficient the windows are.

As for the baseboard... if you like this house and plan to stay a long time, I like the idea of soldering new elbows pointing away from the wall.

But if this were my house and I knew I was going to be moving in a couple years, I probably wouldn't go to that much effort. I might pull the metal shroud off though, and use a stack of washers to space the shroud off the concrete wall so they are no longer in intimate thermal contact. This will reduce, though not eliminate, the heat loss.


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Im still torn on this one.... I dont see us staying here more than 5-7 years, but I do want to make this room a comfortable space for my teen daughter. 

If I can get some type of material between the metal heater and the concrete I would feel better about it. Maybe some thin foam of some sort. I know it wont be perfect, but it shouldnt cause to much heat loss, it is insulated somewhat being underground. 

Still not sure though.... I will get a few copper elbows and really take a look at how it will fit together as far as spacing goes.


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

So i busted up the concrete floor around the copper pipes coming out of the floor. I now have enough room to make an "S" bend which would than be covered up by new cement. 

I removed the old baseboard heater and now have to solder a tight "S" with 2 90 deg elbows and a bit if straight pipe. I wish they made a preformed copper S pipe.... The only problem is, how do I test my joints before I cement them in? I cant connect the heater until the floor is cemented in. 

I have soldered joints before, but with several all so close together, I hope I can get them all sealed up. Is it best to try and solder more than one at a time? Both sides of the elbow for instance?

One other thing? I noticed the old pipes have the black foam insulation on them inside the concrete. Should I wrap the new pipes with something before filling back in? Would have to be insulation tape because of the tight s bends...

Thanks for all the advice!!


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Sorry, I forgot one other question...

Should the new baseboard heater be mounted to the drywall or can I mount it to the furring strips and drywall around it? 

The concrete wall will have XPS than furring strips than drywall.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Mount the new pan to the finished wall---not the studs


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Some pics


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## tylernt (Jul 5, 2012)

I would make the nipple between elbows a wee bit longer so you can get solder in there better. I'd also make up the elbow-nipple-elbow on my workbench beforehand, so I wasn't working on the floor so much.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

tylernt said:


> I would make the nipple between elbows a wee bit longer so you can get solder in there better. I'd also make up the elbow-nipple-elbow on my workbench beforehand, so I wasn't working on the floor so much.


I disagree---the solder will flow--and soldering a part of an assembly first--then hoping that it is clean enough to add to your piping? Never works well for me---

We all have systems that work for us but not well for others---this would not work well for me---


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## tylernt (Jul 5, 2012)

oh'mike said:


> soldering a part of an assembly first--then hoping that it is clean enough to add to your piping? --


True, though I do clean the remaining fitting after soldering the assembly and letting it cool...


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Success!!

All soldered up and holding pressure! I think I even got the entire system bled too.. Also changed the waterlogged expansion tank too.

Thanks for the advice on this one!
I have another question about filling the hole in, but I think I will start a new thread on that one.


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## Missouri Bound (Apr 9, 2011)

Before you start a new thread and fill in that hole...keep in mind that that pipe is going to want to move a bit when it heats and cools. Give it room to do that.:thumbsup:


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## Maine1 (Nov 11, 2012)

Your right. It originally had black foam insulation around it. I will do the same. 

I posted another thread about filling in the concrete in the concrete forum.


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