# Tying new drywall into existing plastered wall



## waldzinator (Feb 6, 2013)

Hi,

My house has a landing on the steps with a doorway leading into the kitchen. I hate this opening, and I want to close it out to allow for more cabinet space. Also, it keeps the kids and dogs from running into the kitchen from the side.

The kitchen side is straightforward...regular, painted 1/2 rock. The hallway side, however, has existing plastar in the slapbrush/knockdown texture. I plan to attempt this. My question is when I go to mud and tape the new 1/2 drywall into place, should I remove the existing plastar along the edge I plan to mud? I'm assuming yes, since it will look uneven. If I am supposed to, what's the best way to remove the old plastar from the drywall?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

If it is Gyprock, you do nothing, other than shim the new drywall to the same height as the old Gyprock, then use Fiberglass mesh tape and Vinyl Spackle or Hot mud when finishing the taping job.

If it is Plaster & Lathe, same thing. Just shim the new drywall out to the same height from the joists, so that a person cannot tell there is a patch there, and then tape & hot mud.


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## waldzinator (Feb 6, 2013)

gregzoll said:


> If it is Gyprock, you do nothing, other than shim the new drywall to the same height as the old Gyprock, then use Fiberglass mesh tape and Vinyl Spackle or Hot mud when finishing the taping job.
> 
> If it is Plaster & Lathe, same thing. Just shim the new drywall out to the same height from the joists, so that a person cannot tell there is a patch there, and then tape & hot mud.


I didn't think about the shimming part. Is this necessary because of varying thicknesses of old drywall or plastar/lathe, or is there some other reason?


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## gregzoll (Dec 25, 2006)

Yes, very necessary if you want it to appear that there was no opening in the wall. Best way to do it, is use a Plumb bob (bolt tied to a string, or a couple of heavy washers), to find out how out of plumb the wall is.

Also use a eight foot level or six foot level, depending on how wide of an opening we are talking about, to find out the depth from the joist in the wall, to the edge of the level, so that you can cut a 2x4 or 2x6 for the shims.

You may find that there are going to be some high or low spots along the joist, so sometimes it is easier to just purchase precut shims. Personally I like to cut my own, since it is quicker and you are dealing with better quality lumber for the shims, vs. junk leftovers, good for firewood only; which most bundled shims are made out of.

So if you lay the sheet of Drywall on the opening and find that it is off at the edges say 1/8th inch, etc. you would go along with the shim that you cut from the 2x4 or 2x6 on the joists.

Now of course when you close up the opening, it is better to use a 2x6 and rip it down to make up for the difference that will be there, when you go to close it up, and on the edges and top, just use the ripped down pieces to bring out the sheet to the same depth as the wall on the left and right. Check with a six or eight foot level, to make sure there is no low spots that will show after finishing.


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