# Nail or Staple Knotty Pine TIG Ceiling??



## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

I have done several tongue and groove ceilings. Have some that are 10 years old and never had a call back or a problem with them.
I use a senco finish gun with a 2 1/2" nail. I use this mainly because it is what I carry on my truck, I use them for setting doors and always have a box with me.

I am going to say that a staple will have more holding power then a nail, it may be better for your application, I have never had a problem with a nail.


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## md2lgyk (Jan 6, 2009)

Same here. All the ceilings in my log home are 1x6 tongue & groove. Put it all up with a finish nailer.


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I have both and I find the narrow crown staple gun far easyer to use. It's lighter, more holding power. The tip fits perfect to line it up.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

both work equally well, the only difference with staples is that you cant face nail in situations where you need to add a fastener to hold in the odd spot. ... well you can but it will look terrible


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Like Funfool,
I use a 2 1/2" finish nail. I nail through the bevel next to the male tongue. Nails aren't completely hidden, but not really noticeable. You might want to check with your local building dept and see if they require drywall underneath.
Mike Hawkins


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## Ray&Paula (Oct 23, 2012)

:thumbup: Thanks for your replies! I believe I'll go ahead and use a 2 1/2" finish nail gun. I looked at the Bostitch N62FNK-2 (Link below), it had good reviews. The gun comes with a few different tips with one of them made for TIG. One other plus is that nails are readily available. Thanks again for your help! Ray:clap:

http://www.bostitch.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=BOS_FINISH_AND_TRIM_NAILER&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=N62FNK-2&SDesc=15-Gauge+Oil-Free+Angled+Finish+Nailer+Kit


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Just so you know a narrow crown staple gun leaves such a small hole it's almost invisable.
I use mine all the time when laying 1/4 plywood underlayment, the holes are so small you do not even need to go back and fill them even when linolium is going down over it.


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## Ray&Paula (Oct 23, 2012)

Hi,
I agree that a staple gun would be a stronger hold, but length of the staples are my concern. I'm under the impression that for a ceiling application 2 to 2 1/2" nails were the best due to their length. What size staples are you using? Thanks, Ray


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

I use 3/8" or 1/2" thick T & G on ceilings with 1-1/2 staples. Never had a call back for loose of sagging ceiling.


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## Ray&Paula (Oct 23, 2012)

Hi,
I'm using 3/4" TIG end matched. With your application, I can see that a staple gun would be the perfect solution. I've seen TIG nailed/stapled on the tongue side as well as the groove side. In your opinion, what would be the best of the two? Thanks again, Ray


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## user1007 (Sep 23, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> You might want to check with your local building dept and see if they require drywall underneath.
> Mike Hawkins


Thanks Mike! I didn't want this suggestion to get ignored or buried and fear it did. I suspect you need a fire barrier to meet code and satisfy your fire insurance carrier? Will they sign off on 3/4" wood T&G itself where you are?


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## funfool (Oct 5, 2012)

Here it does pass code by going to the joist with no drywall, but that may not be the case everywhere and is good to check.

Never hurts to mention to be careful on a ladder installing it.
Last one I did couple months ago, I was on rolling scaffolding and peak of the ceiling was at 15', my employer was standing on a 12' step ladder turned sideways to get close to the wall, bent over backwards trying to beat a warped t&g board into place.
He pushed the ladder out from under him, landed on a concrete slab shoulders first, put his head through the wall, knocked him out.
Call an ambulance, spent the night in the hospital, off work for a week.

This stupid accident could have been avoided and happened while installing the product we are talking about.

BE CAREFUL ON A LADDER!


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

sdsester said:


> Thanks Mike! I didn't want this suggestion to get ignored or buried and fear it did. I suspect you need a fire barrier to meet code and satisfy your fire insurance carrier? Will they sign off on 3/4" wood T&G itself where you are?


By me, if the ceiling is in the house or attached garage, they would want drywall underneath. Detached garage they don't care.
Mike Hawkins


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