# change tub spout rough out



## SCM (Jun 23, 2010)

A journeyman plumber used 1/2" copper tubing for the tub spout stem, without first learning that the spout is threaded. The discovery happened after the shower head wall was closed and travertine set. He then said too bad and walked.

How do I correct the problem, when I cannot enter the wall from the front or rear. The spout requires a 1/2" threaded stem that extends 1/2" from the finished wall. The slip pieces I saw at a local store have a nut between the slip and the thread. This nut will stick out 1/4" from the wall, preventing tightening the spout against the wall. 

I can widen the hole in the travertine to about 1.75 to 2" but need to cut the tubing about 1/4" into the wall and then sweat the adapter on. How do I cut the tubing behind the wall?

Is there any better alternative?


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

Get someone to sweat on a section of 1/2" so that the pipe is 4.5" long from the wall. You can purchase a spout which simply presses onto it without the thread.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

They make spouts with o-rings that will go right onto your 1/2" copper stub and tighten with a setscrew.

If opening the walls are not an option, then this is your easiest route. Buy a new spout. No soldering required.

I for one, cannot believe that a plumber would do that to you, UNLESS you changed the trim package on him after it was already roughed in. If it was his screw up, i'd make him fix it. Is he a REAL plumber?

Are you sure the copper stub doesn't have a male adapter on the end of it inside the wall, attached to a brass drop ear with female threads?


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

Alan said:


> They make spouts with o-rings that will go right onto your 1/2" copper stub and tighten with a setscrew.


Yep, thats the one I mentioned but Terry needs 4.5"minimum copper pipe. I actually prefer those over threaded unless its a designer type..UGH

On a similar note, can they not make the allen screws just a bit bigger? and longer??.


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## SCM (Jun 23, 2010)

Thanks for the thought but the spout is solid nickel. It part of a full bathroom set of solid nickel fixtures. Changing the spout is not the solution.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

SCM said:


> Thanks for the thought but the spout is solid nickel. It part of a full bathroom set of solid nickel fixtures. Changing the spout is not the solution.


It is if you are refusing to open the wall on either side of the shower. :huh:

You can try sweating a male adapter on it at whatever length you need it, but it's not going to be near as sturdy as it should be. You're going to be likely to break it off when tightening or loosening it.


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## SCM (Jun 23, 2010)

The back wall is a finished shower. Opening the front wall means I must remove and replace 20X20 travertine and then try to match the color. UGH!!!!


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

If I were you i'd try looking for a new spout. I'd bet you can find one if you try hard enough.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Call the manufacturer of the mixer----If it is one of the big manufacturers like Moen ,Delta or Kohler

They make slip on and thread on for most models.

It's to late for you-----but for any DIY types here--I suggest a threaded,eared flange be used for the tub spout---(just like the shower head) thread in a copper stub out for pressure testing and tiling--

Make sure the spout piping is well secured---You don't want that moving.

With this set up you are safe,even if you goof up ----Mike----


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## Dglsmason (Dec 29, 2012)

*Drop ear for pipe to tub spout*

If I use a threaded drop ear for my bath tub spout, just like used for shower, what type of pipe do I use from the the drop ear out (to connect the spout to, which will likely be a slip-on spout)? Would it need to be 1/2 inch copper (threaded at wall end), or is there a better rigid material for this? Do stores like Lowe's sell 1/2 inch copper with threaded end?

I agree that the drop ear would have to be very well anchored, just as the one for the shower should be, but even more important as the spout is more like to get bumped etc.

Thanks!


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## jagans (Oct 21, 2012)

Brass 1/2 inch npple


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## joeplumber85 (Dec 29, 2012)

Or a 1/2" MIP by copper adapter soldered onto a small piece of copper.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

For a push on spout you need copper with a male end soldered on---If you own a torch and have solder and flux--it's simple enough---I always dope and tape any fittings that are hidden inside the wall---


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## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

I don't know if I blame the plumber on this one or not. Anytime we do an upscale master bath redo, all the plumbing fixtures have to be picked out and specs available long before any tile goes up. If the plumber had this information, then shame on him. 
I agree with Oh Mike, I would check around for another tub spout that looks very close to what you have now. If you don't want to do that, than take the one tile off. Not fun but as long as you have an extra, it's not that big of a deal.
One other thought and I know it's too late now, but if at all possible, I don't plan a wall with plumbing controls in it without having access on the backside through drywall or something similar that's easily replaceable. 
Mike Hawkins


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## Dglsmason (Dec 29, 2012)

*Pipe for tub spout*

Trying to make a long story short. I'm trying to avoid any soldering (don't have torch, etc.). Only problem is the pipe for the bath tub spout. Is there any appropriate pipe I can buy that is threaded (to screw into drop ear inside wall)? Or, is soldering a brass male nipple onto 1/2 inch copper pipe the only option?

Also, I ran across a video of a guy soldering a copper elbow onto a copper pipe where the 'solder' was somehow built-into the elbow, no external solder used, he just used torch to heat joint. Seemed like the solder sort of went from inside to out. Anybody familiar with this? I don't recall seeing it at Lowe's.


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Soldering is not that hard. Especially considering that you have a fitting that will not be subjected to very much pressure at any time.


Watch some videos, practice a half dozen times with a 6 foot piece of copper and some couplings or something cheap. You'll get it. If you need some pointers we're here for you.


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