# 30 degrees of slop steering



## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

Rule the axle out. It doesn't involve steering. Also, checking looseness in the steering with the engine off can be misleading. Not unusual to have a little play with no power being present. Could possibly be the rack, but you also need to look at tie rod ends and the coupling between the column and the rack. Also, look at the rack mounting and make sure it isn't loose on the mounts or if perhaps the bushings in the mounts are worn out. Not familiar with the mounting configuration of that vehicle, but the above pretty much applies to all.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

DO NOT DRIVE this deathtrap.

When I was a young stupid 21 year old, I was driving a car with some play in the steering, I wound up wrapped around a Bridge pier, and apent the next 6 weeks in a hospital bed.

Since then even a little excess play in one and I get a repair on it.

As Mike said, this could be several different components or a combination of any of them. 

Get it looked at by a competent alignment expert.

Not the axle.

ED


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Yikes- good thing I checked here with you guys!! I should bring it to a shop asap. At least Im assured it is not the axle......


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... If the boot is ripped, the axle still needs fixin',...

It just ain't what's causin' yer steerin' issues,...
To add to the places to look for slop noted above, ball-joints, 'n other suspension mountin' points are also Suspect,.....


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

papereater said:


> Yikes- good thing I checked here with you guys!! I should bring it to a shop asap. At least Im assured it is not the axle......


Thank you for heeding the warning. 

As I said a few weeks in the hospital is no picnic. 

You do get young pretty nurses coming in every day giving you a sponge bath, but you are not able to enjoy it. 

Do get that thing to a shop quickly, but not at any speeds over what you can shut it down in the event that this faulty part breaks.

You want to control it's movement, and be able to stop on a slip of paper.

ED


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Right- That means not going over about 45 mph.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,.... If the boot is ripped, the axle still needs fixin',...
> 
> It just ain't what's causin' yer steerin' issues,...
> To add to the places to look for slop noted above, ball-joints, 'n other suspension mountin' points are also Suspect,.....


But I may not bother with that boot/axle for now. . I lived with a torn boot same place on my sunbird for over 10 years. Finally replaced it.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

I jacked up the car, removed wheels, and grabbed the brake rotors and pushed left/right, rocking the wheel hub to check for looseness. I found that there is quite a bit of play right at the joint on the rack at the first Boot. On both sides. 

A remand rack is $85.00. I might install myself. Its a tough job, but I did one before on a car.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

There is a high possibility that since the joints at the rack are wore, the other joints are wore too. 

If you are not experienced and/ or trained, you might miss them and still be in the same predicament.

I think that you need a pro front end shop on this, or have had more than once long ago. 

ED


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## Mike Milam (Mar 3, 2017)

papereater said:


> I jacked up the car, removed wheels, and grabbed the brake rotors and pushed left/right, rocking the wheel hub to check for looseness. I found that there is quite a bit of play right at the joint on the rack at the first Boot. On both sides.
> 
> A remand rack is $85.00. I might install myself. Its a tough job, but I did one before on a car.


Little tip. When you get the old one out, measure the overall length (center of outer tie rod ends) and when you open the new one adjust that one to the same length. You won't get it spot on, but it will be easier on the tires driving to the alignment shop.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

Mike Milam said:


> Little tip. When you get the old one out, measure the overall length (center of outer tie rod ends) and when you open the new one adjust that one to the same length. You won't get it spot on, but it will be easier on the tires driving to the alignment shop.


Right- I was concerned about that. I have the Chiltons manual . But thats no substitute for experience.


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

de-nagorg said:


> There is a high possibility that since the joints at the rack are wore, the other joints are wore too.
> 
> If you are not experienced and/ or trained, you might miss them and still be in the same predicament.
> 
> ...


I understand, but those boots on the rack were definetly knocking/making noises, iNSIDE the rack. The ball joints were solid. Just what other joints are involved- I mean, what else is there?


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Another tip on replacing the rack. After removing the pinch bolt, center the steering wheel, remove the key lock the steering column before removing the rack splines from the column.

Hanging parts can get pricey. Take it to a qualified shop for diagnosis.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

papereater said:


> I understand, but those boots on the rack were definetly knocking/making noises, iNSIDE the rack. The ball joints were solid. Just what other joints are involved- I mean, what else is there?


I would need to look it over myself to be sure exactly what linkages are there, different makers , use different systems, but Tie rods, ball joints, linkage to the steering wheel, and maybe more.

The bolts that mount the rack, others.

ED


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

de-nagorg said:


> I would need to look it over myself to be sure exactly what linkages are there, different makers , use different systems, but Tie rods, ball joints, linkage to the steering wheel, and maybe more.
> 
> The bolts that mount the rack, others.
> 
> ED


Thanks, Ed, but ball joints and tie rods were solid. No slop there. Slop was clearly in the rack boots, the ones closest to the wheels.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

As I said I would need to inspect it in person, but as long as you are sure , do it yourself.

A word of caution though.

This is something that you don't want to do Half-Assed.

Lives depend on it being right, yours, your family, other people on your roads.

So do it right and save a life.

ED


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## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

30 degrees of slack is dangerous in the steering. You need to look at the ball joints and a-frame bushings. Also check outer tie rod ends. Any slack is bad.:vs_cool:


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## papereater (Sep 16, 2016)

After studying the manual for a bit, this seems to be a bigger job that I thought- unbolting that "K" frame, a massive bolts frame. Geez. Peeking under there doesnt seem to need removing but no way Im tackling that. I will have to sell it as is, with disclosure that the van needs work on front end. Why kill myself for a must sell van anyway. 

Oh well. Its just that I enjoy most car stuff, but cant do it all.........

Thanks, People.


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