# Total House Rebuild - Bungalow to Two Storey



## 123pugsy

I bought my bungalow 14 years ago and along came a wife and a couple of beautiful kids so it's time to expand. It's taken a long time to get the drawings done and a permit in my hands but I finally have them.

The original plan was a 2nd story addition but that would have left 2x4 walls and also would have left behind all the leaking windows which were not worth saving.
It would have cost more than framing two new stories. 

Figuring out a brick ledge was also a problem as the existing house has siding on three sides. I did however manage to figure it out and the engineer was happy with my design. That was, of course, until "Pugsy luck" :furious: as my buddy puts it, hit once more. The construction company that was widening the road in front of my house sent a guy around looking for any damage that homeowners may try to peg on them and the fellow found a crack in the block foundation wall. 
OK then, more changes to the drawings and a lot of added expense. 

Pics of the existing house below.


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## oh'mike

I'll be following this ---Mike---


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## Windows on Wash

oh'mike said:


> I'll be following this ---Mike---


+1

Me too. Should be a nice thread.


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## ddawg16

oh'mike said:


> I'll be following this ---Mike---


Me three


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## yuri

Make sure you allow room for large sized ducts and plenty of return air and supplies to the upstairs. 2 stories are always a problem with AC and sometimes heat as the furnace is so far away from the rooms and the air slows down by the time it gets there.

If you want specific advice visit the HVAC forum.


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Make sure you allow room for large sized ducts and plenty of return air and supplies to the upstairs. 2 stories are always a problem with AC and sometimes heat as the furnace is so far away from the rooms and the air slows down by the time it gets there.
> 
> If you want specific advice visit the HVAC forum.


Thanks Everyone.

HVAC engineered drawings are already done.
I will post my concerns before they get started.


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## Colbyt

No progress pictures and work report yet? It's been almost 10 hours.


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## yuri

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Everyone.
> 
> HVAC engineered drawings are already done.
> I will post my concerns before they get started.


Not trying to sell you stuff but there are reasonable priced Honeywell zoning systems available now. You are going to need a bigger furnace and AC. Don't know what you plan to use, just trying to help before you get too far and cannot undo or get at the ducts etc. Most architects know squat about HVAC.


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## PoleCat

BIG operation. Is the current roof made of truss construction?


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## 123pugsy

So I wanted to get started on anything at all for the house while I was waiting for multiple surveys and site plans due to the City extorting 5' of land from the front of my property before I could have the honor of applying for permit. 

I figured since I am married to the persuasian of people that love cooking with oil and woks, I had better consider how to get the grease outta the air. Our current kitchen is covered with a beauty film of dust embedded grease that just does not like to wipe off easily.

I checked around and came up with an 830 (approx) CFM inline fan and thought that could probably suck up the greasy slime and perhaps the MIL all in one shot. (fingers crossed)

I was using some black zinc for a work project not long ago and thought it would make a nice range hood.

I got a friends shop to cut me some hammer forms for the ends of the hood and did a little tap-tapping. After that, a few holes and a joiner strip were needed. A couple (hunert) pop rivets later and things were looking up.


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## 123pugsy

I formed up an aluminum back panel and zinc front panel at work and brought them home to assemble in my garage.


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## 123pugsy

Of course, something was missing. Decorative strips of course.
Solid copper bars, 2" wide by 3/16" thick did the trick nicely. Rivets and bars always are a good fit so we couldn't leave those out. They were threaded so that I wouldn't slip with the air chisel peening them.
The bars and rivets were then subjected to some patina juice.


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## 123pugsy

And the finished result.


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## 123pugsy

I made up a stainless liner with filters at work.

3 LED lights installed. 

The on/off switch will open an electric damper on a 6" return air duct coming from outside.


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Not trying to sell you stuff but there are reasonable priced Honeywell zoning systems available now. You are going to need a bigger furnace and AC. Don't know what you plan to use, just trying to help before you get too far and cannot undo or get at the ducts etc. Most architects know squat about HVAC.


Yuri, you hit it dead on about the architects.
I'm the one pretending to be an architect. I designed the house. Learned how to use Autocad on you tube and I'm a regular George Costanza now, ha.

Does this system you refer to control dampers automatically using several thermostats?
I already have a 3.5 ton condensing unit which I hope won't be over sized. It was in the bungalow and couldn't run long enough to pull the humidity out of the air.

My existing furnace is 80 K BTU's and according to my HVAC engineer, using 2015's calculations he said 60K would be enough. This is a new (3 years) Luxaire unit. I believe its a DC motor? Not sure if it's dual whatever? (architect talk again)


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## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> No progress pictures and work report yet? It's been almost 10 hours.


geez, can't a guy even move first, ha.

Almost got finished moving today. What a pain.
Lucky, we have use of the house next door.


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## 123pugsy

PoleCat said:


> BIG operation. Is the current roof made of truss construction?


Ya, it's gonna be huge.
Hopefully we can save the slab and the footings.

Can't remember if trusses or stick. Haven't been up there for years.


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## TheEplumber

Love the hood :thumbsup:
I'm thinking you might need a big kitchen for that....


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## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> Love the hood :thumbsup:
> I'm thinking you might need a big kitchen for that....


Thanks. Kitchen will be about 12' x 10'.


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## yuri

*HVAC issue*

First let me ask a few questions:

How many sq feet are you going to have above grade?

Are you going with triple pane argon windows and 2x6 walls? I have them and you get no drafts by the windows even in Winnipeg.

Luxaire is York so post the model # and I can look it up along with Beenthere.

Maybe get a mod to move this into it's own thread on the HVAC forum as it will get long. PM Beenthere or one of the others can do it if they read this.

I will give you a Honeywell link so you can start reading.

Basically it is a generic zoning system and any dealer can access it unlike a Lennox or Carrier proprietary system. It uses motorised dampers and I would zone your house main and 2nd floor and use 2 thermostats. It has a air pressure operated bypass damper so when 1 zone closes it bypasses air and lets the unit keep running. PERFECT if you have a DC ECM variable speed motor.

You would need to find a contractor willing to do it. Watched some videos on their site and it looks fairly straightforward.

If you have a skilled contractor and use 6" pipe for your upstairs supply runs and good return then you can balance the system and your DC ECM fan can compensate. Zoning is nice but you need to research it.

https://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/products/zoning/zoning_products.html


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## Colbyt

The attention to detail in the hood tells me I am going to enjoy this thread.

Don't forget the makeup air. You don't want your heat and cool going up the stack.

We fry a bit here also so I am really jealous.


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## yuri

Hmmm, I am not that HVAC busy yet and Ontario is not far away. Free good food and get in some Pro sports in TO in return for a HVAC consult.:laughing:

Colby makes a good point. If you have a powerful Jenn Air or exhaust fan you can depressurise a house. In Alberta bldg code says it has to be interlocked to the furnace fan with a fresh air pipe from the outside if it is over XXX cfm. Cannot remember how many cfm/ 200 I believe. 830 cfm is is large as a 2 ton AC fan is 800 cfm. Hopefully it has a speed control.


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> *HVAC issue*
> 
> First let me ask a few questions:
> 
> How many sq feet are you going to have above grade?
> 
> Are you going with triple pane argon windows and 2x6 walls? I have them and you get no drafts by the windows even in Winnipeg.
> 
> Luxaire is York so post the model # and I can look it up along with Beenthere.
> 
> Maybe get a mod to move this into it's own thread on the HVAC forum as it will get long. PM Beenthere or one of the others can do it if they read this.
> 
> I will give you a Honeywell link so you can start reading.
> 
> Basically it is a generic zoning system and any dealer can access it unlike a Lennox or Carrier proprietary system. It uses motorised dampers and I would zone your house main and 2nd floor and use 2 thermostats. It has a air pressure operated bypass damper so when 1 zone closes it bypasses air and lets the unit keep running. PERFECT if you have a DC ECM variable speed motor.
> 
> You would need to find a contractor willing to do it. Watched some videos on their site and it looks fairly straightforward.
> 
> If you have a skilled contractor and use 6" pipe for your upstairs supply runs and good return then you can balance the system and your DC ECM fan can compensate. Zoning is nice but you need to research it.
> 
> https://www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/products/zoning/zoning_products.html


Started a thread here:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/zoning-system-2-story-house-277145/


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## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> The attention to detail in the hood tells me I am going to enjoy this thread.
> 
> Don't forget the makeup air. You don't want your heat and cool going up the stack.
> 
> We fry a bit here also so I am really jealous.


I have a speed control set to medium built inside of the hood where no one can touch it. Also, when the fan is set to medium or high, power will be sent to the damper to open a 6" return air duct.
My heat or cool, depending on the season will indeed be going up the stack. As long as that grease I mentioned goes, all is good.

There is a power block built into the hood. Just need to bring in the wire from the damper and attach it. This has all been inspected and it has a label on it from ESA.


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## yuri

Sounds good or maybe like a rocket at full speed.:laughing:

I would rather have a dedicated 6" return duct than mess with the furnace. I would not want a gas water heater with a chimney as it could downdraft even with that duct and then produce CO. Electric is safer or a thru the wall or tankless. That is a huge amount of air that fan can exhaust.


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## 123pugsy

So at this point I have only an exhaust hood and nothing else. Like the cartoon where Daffy Duck yells to the guy "hey bub, you need a new house to go with this door knob"....

I was still waiting for permits and had to keep busy. I decided to start the kitchen cabinets. I don't have kitchen walls yet, but what could go wrong? Just build the walls in the correct places and everything should fit. We'll see later I guess.

I got some strips of 7/8" thick poplar cut at a customers millwork shop and got started during Christmas break. I also picked up a Kreg router table and beaded face frame system. I also need a pocket screw system and grabbed one of those while I was out shopping.


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## 123pugsy

I forgot to mention, only the doors and face frames will be wood. I will have the guys in the shop make up some stainless boxes and screw the completed face frame/door assembly onto them.

Some random pics below.


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## 123pugsy

With all the face frames together, I needed to start the doors. Since my garage is not set up with a table saw, I figured I would cut all the door rails and stiles exactly to size using spacers as my guide. This would save me a step of trimming each door to fit each frame opening. 
What a mistake . I cut some of the pieces short and I had to use shims when gluing them up.


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## 123pugsy

1/4" MDF was used for the panels. I made up a little jig for drilling the hinge screw holes from bits of metal laying around the garage.


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## 123pugsy

Some random pics of frames/doors going together.


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## 123pugsy

I picked up some trim from a local supplier for the applied moldings.


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## 123pugsy

Pre-cat primer was selected and the spraying was started. Everything was hit with primer and then sanded smooth with 320 grit. 

AlexPlus was used in every joint between the moldings and door faces/panels. A damp cloth was used to wipe the access for a real clean look. I'm not a woodworker by trade and this tip came from my neighbor, Dino. He has a millwork shop and shared a few nuggets of info with me throughout this project.


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## 123pugsy

I selected a Behr color and then ordered it in pre-cat as well.


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## 123pugsy

I made up a small cabinet section for the drawers at work for a test run and everything seemed alright until I tightened up screws on one drawer face and cracked the paint. The drawer box was not exactly as flat as nice wooden ones are and caused the problem.

I will need to shim the ones I make for the island counter if the face does not sit exactly flat.


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## 123pugsy

That's the end of the kitchen cabinets for now.
This week, I need to finish getting everything out of the house and then start trenching for drains. Again, putting the cart before the horse but I have no choice.

I must keep doing something, towards getting the project going while I wait for the gas company. 44 days to disconnect. Unbelievable. There is no one else to call either.


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## Windows on Wash

Gorgeous.


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## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Gorgeous.


Thank you.

I was thinking of glazing them for that rustic look but I chickened out after all that work. Plus the application and the extra clear coat req'd would have taken too long. I'll get them installed (eventually) and see if they need it or not.


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## 123pugsy

I forgot about an important part of this build. The "free" shed that was required desperately. 

How is that possible you must wonder. How do I get one for free?
Simple. If you need to move into a tiny house and you need to store a bunch of stuff, the money spent on the materials works out to about the same money spent on a storage unit. 

What you're about to see is not for the faint hearted. Do not attempt this at home people. I literally dropped 12 x 12 patio stones on a fabric sheet and built on that. I will probably end up moving this later but time was an issue so I whipped through it.


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## 123pugsy

The floor frame is 2x6 pressure treated with 5/8" pressure treated plywood glued and screwed.

T1-11 siding panels were used.
After all the walls were up, truss fabrication was done. I used the first one as a jig for the rest. They are 2x4's with 1/2" plywood gussets screwed and glued.


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## 123pugsy

A few more pics. The paint color came out a lot more blue than I thought. It looked greenish in my garage under the fluorescent lights but really changed outside. The first pic is the empty can in the trash bag.

I got the shed done with a week to spare. I got it filled about 2/3's with enough space for a few more item from inside the house such as the water heater, furnace, and some shelving units. 

This brings the build up to date. I just finished moving this past weekend.
Hope to get the house gutted soon and start the next phase.


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## 123pugsy

OK. Up to date. Spent yesterday moving stuff out and then proceeded to knock down a wall that was in the way of my rough in for the new basement washroom. It was also in the way of digging up the main drain pipe which will be removed and changed to PVC.

I am doing all this now and not later as I am keeping the slab and footings and I need to wait for the gas company to turn off the gas before demo can start. Since I've done everything else in a messed up order, what the hey. 

Will have to get only most of it roughed in but not connect any pipes that stick up thru the slab.

I also busted up most of the floor tiles in the newly renovated washroom that was in the basement. Painful. What a royal waste of time and dollars that was.
The thread for the washroom is here:
http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/downstairs-washroom-renovation-170294/


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## yuri

Just curious, with the extra story are you having to increase the size of the basement wall footings and enlarge the wall thickness. Are they being removed? Forgive my ignorance as I have built 2 new houses but never reno'd one.

If you are digging around the outside walls I would suggest using DeltaMS wrap on them instead of plain tar. I have it and it works GREAT. No water leaks in even if the wall gets hairline cracks as it runs straight down the membrane.

http://www.deltams.ca/deltams_deltams.htm


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Just curious, with the extra story are you having to increase the size of the basement wall footings and enlarge the wall thickness. Are they being removed? Forgive my ignorance as I have built 2 new houses but never reno'd one.
> 
> If you are digging around the outside walls I would suggest using DeltaMS wrap on them instead of plain tar. I have it and it works GREAT. No water leaks in even if the wall gets hairline cracks as it runs straight down the membrane.
> 
> http://www.deltams.ca/deltams_deltams.htm


Thanks.

18" x 6" footings are fine and I believe that's what I have. If we uncover them and they're 16", I just have to call the engineer and they will still be fine with the soil I have. It's 4000 PSF according to my soil engineer's report.

I will pour new 10" reinforced concrete foundation walls. The current problem is that one of the 10" CMU walls without rebar has a crack in it being pushed inwards. The building code to this day still allows this exact configuration with the height and thickness as I have to not have any rebar. I think a change in code should be made.

The foundation guys will be installing the dimpled plastic? membrane over the tar. So it's double protection you could say.


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## yuri

Would seem redundant to put dimple plastic over tar and the whole idea is if water gets behind the plastic it runs straight down the wall on the membrane to the weeping tile. Delta MS is very tough and the backfilling does not damage it unlike the tar. IMO the tar will plug the dimples. There are other brands beside Delta MS which is Cdn. Same idea though and I cannot see why the tar would not interfere with the dimples and drainage and design. Tell them to keep the tar and refund you the cost of it. It may also have a chemical reaction with the membrane. NOT a good idea IMO.


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Would seem redundant to put dimple plastic over tar and the whole idea is if water gets behind the plastic it runs straight down the wall on the membrane to the weeping tile. Delta MS is very tough and the backfilling does not damage it unlike the tar. IMO the tar will plug the dimples. There are other brands beside Delta MS which is Cdn. Same idea though and I cannot see why the tar would not interfere with the dimples and drainage and design. Tell them to keep the tar and refund you the cost of it. It may also have a chemical reaction with the membrane. NOT a good idea IMO.


Standard installation around here.
The tar is thin. Not anywhere near the depth of the dimples. Any water getting past the membrane will trickle down the tar to the footing drains.


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## 123pugsy

I got the 3 post footings marked out and then cut around the perimeter. My grinder got an about 1-1/4" deep cut. Should be OK for jack hammering now. The concrete is not too thick.

The third pic shows an existing block post. I will need to wait for the house to come down to finish that cut out.


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## 123pugsy

I should have known me better. I can't wait for anything.
Picked up some 2x6's on the way home and made up some bracing.
The third pic shows the quality that went into this house originally.


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## 123pugsy

Couldn't stop there....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbW1-T_lk4g&feature=youtu.be

Then I had a footing to get out of the hole along with the slab and concrete block.


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## 123pugsy

I got the three footing holes done. My depth gauge worked out well. They are taking on ground water though. I guess the hill top I live on is a swamp.


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## 123pugsy

I moved onto the drain trenching after the footing holes were done. All the clay will be swapped out for new 4" PVC. The last pic is about half the length of the trench.


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## 123pugsy

A ton of digging done on Sunday. 
Found an open abandoned pipe that appears to be coming from the footing of the house. I had to cap it off to stop the water from running in. No wonder my basement was extremely damp.


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## HDS

Are you going to continue the abandoned pipe to a sump?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## 123pugsy

HDS said:


> Are you going to continue the abandoned pipe to a sump?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Thanks.

It's funny that the pipe just happens to be routed smack dab in the middle of where my new sump pit is going. Good luck for a change?

I will dig it up and use the trench created for my new sump feed. It's about 6' long now so not much extra to dig. About two feet I guess.

Only problem about my chosen location is that there is an 8" CMU wall there with a 6" thick footing below it. Need to support the floor joists before I knock down the wall.


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## 123pugsy

HDS said:


> Are you going to continue the abandoned pipe to a sump?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


It's more like abandoned pipes. What a mess. I believe they T'd in a pipe that was from a basement window well. The Tee in was done in a fantastic way. They busted off a piece of pipe and just stopped it at the intersection. Then they took all the clay bits and laid them over the hollow area they created and back filled over that. Water all over the place feeding under the slab. 

I found the weeping tile that was feeding the mystery pipe in what looks like an abandoned sump pit. More under slab liquid feeds. 
Can't understand why people said my basement felt damp??? :huh:


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## 123pugsy

I put up some supports so I could knock down the block wall located behind the left support. Of course I would design the main stack and the sump pit exactly there. The 6" thick footing holding up the wall is no fun to play with either.

I got the block wall down and the sump pit hole almost finished. About 5" more to dig. The hole should be full of water by tomorrow.....


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## 123pugsy

Change of plans.

There is so much water coming in that gets around the weeping tiles, I've decided to rip out the whole slab. The footing will probably be destroyed as well so that will get re-done. 

A dual weeping tile system will be installed with all the pipes tied together.


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## 123pugsy

Perimeter fencing has been installed and water meter removed.
Permits and notice of project are posted.
Just waiting for POCO to disconnect and then see this thing destroyed.
Hopefully within the next two weeks.

I got the tree fencing and root flooring done as well.


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## 123pugsy

Got a bunch of cage parts twisted up at work and brought them home for assembly.


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## oh'mike

You have been busy since my last visit-----


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## 123pugsy

Tomorrow's the big day. Hopefully get some YouTube footage.....


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## yuri

Looking forward to it. At first I wondered why you did not sell the house ( which has value ) and buy a bigger one. Seems like you have a nice area with mature trees and the kids are in school etc so why move. Save on realtor fees and land transfer tax etc. People buy old houses for the lot in River Heights where I am and knock them down and go up and larger. Plus you get the exact new house you want, makes sense now.:yes:


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## BigJim

How in the world did I miss your thread? That is one heck of an undertaking and from seeing how you do your car projects, this will turn out perfect also. I am glued to this thread. 

I was totally amazed at how the last owners (or who ever) did some of the things to the house. You will have one good solid home when you finish, that is for sure.


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Looking forward to it. At first I wondered why you did not sell the house ( which has value ) and buy a bigger one. Seems like you have a nice area with mature trees and the kids are in school etc so why move. Save on realtor fees and land transfer tax etc. People buy old houses for the lot in River Heights where I am and knock them down and go up and larger. Plus you get the exact new house you want, makes sense now.:yes:


Thanks Yuri.

The school the kids go to is top notch so the wife wants to stay in this school zone. It's also far enough away that we have school bus service right at the foot of our driveway.

The drawback is that it's right on the main street and not far from it either but I'm used to the noise now so no biggie. The location does not lend itself to make good money on the renovation because it's on the main street but what the heck. This is a place to live, not a place to sell. Will worry about that when the time comes.


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## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> How in the world did I miss your thread? That is one heck of an undertaking and from seeing how you do your car projects, this will turn out perfect also. I am glued to this thread.
> 
> I was totally amazed at how the last owners (or who ever) did some of the things to the house. You will have one good solid home when you finish, that is for sure.


Thanks Jim.

It's pretty exciting around here even as I type this.
I wish I knew how to embed this into the thread. Anyone?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaJSI-9FN8w&feature=youtu.be


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## Admin

Here ya go.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaJSI-9FN8w


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## 123pugsy

Thanks Cricket.
Can you explain how you did that?


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## 123pugsy

Demo Part 2.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaLPDWPybnY&feature=em-upload_owner


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## BigJim

Are you operating the track hoe? That is a lot of fun tearing a house down with one. Is there a reason you couldn't get real aggressive with it?


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## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Are you operating the track hoe? That is a lot of fun tearing a house down with one. Is there a reason you couldn't get real aggressive with it?


Nope. Not me.

He was taking it bit by bit and stuffing it into the basement. Then he drove forward on the debris to get to the rest of the house further in.
He will start removing from further in into the bins and work his way back. (I think)

He hardly raised much dust this way as well.

I really wanted the aggressive approach to beat the snot out of my pain and misery place. We did have some fun throwing rocks thru the windows before he started though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai5EJuTu_4s&feature=youtu.be


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## yuri

Yeah, I would have swung that hoe like a baseball bat.

Couple Monster trucks with chains would have been even more fun.:yes::laughing:


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## BigJim

I hope you aren't paying by the hour, he must be new at this. LOL


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## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> I hope you aren't paying by the hour, he must be new at this. LOL


Pay by the project thanks goodness. It's being loaded into bins now.


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## yuri

The hoe operator must have been a Surgeon in his previous life.:yes::laughing:


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> The hoe operator must have been a Surgeon in his previous life.:yes::laughing:


I think you're right.
He only got 2 bins filled delicately in a day......Grrrrr......holy...shhhmokes.... I can see a four day project going six now.....


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## yuri

Yeah he must be getting paid by the hour, the longer it takes the more he gets paid.:laughing:

Reminds me of a time when I worked with a useless bunch of Union guys that did the absolute minimum. "Nobody moves nobody gets hurt" was the motto.:whistling2:

Not all Union guys are useless, I got so bored I actually walked away from the hour + lunches and went back to work not that they liked that. They all got screwed later when the Company axed half our jobs with "budget cuts".


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Yeah he must be getting paid by the hour, the longer it takes the more he gets paid.:laughing:
> 
> Reminds me of a time when I worked with a useless bunch of Union guys that did the absolute minimum. "Nobody moves nobody gets hurt" was the motto.:whistling2:
> 
> Not all Union guys are useless, I got so bored I actually walked away from the hour + lunches and went back to work not that they liked that. They all got screwed later when the Company axed half our jobs with "budget cuts".


Nope, not union, the owner....
He blamed it on the bin delivery dude, but maybe they are using the cheapest and thus most unreliable company for the bins...just great!

I was planning on doing the footing forms this long 
weekend. Again, another plan shot to heck.....grrr...I hate relying on people.


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## BigJim

Must be a new machine then, scared to break it in too fast. LOL


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## 123pugsy

Time for some demo pics......


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## 123pugsy

And some more........


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## 123pugsy

And a few more.....


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## 123pugsy

Slot in the ground for 4 deck footings/piers.

I had placed marks around the yard so I could run strings across and then drop a plumb bob to find the exact location again.
I pounded some rebar stakes in the ground and then measured them all and drew them up on CAD. This then showed me which stake to adjust a bit to get them in square.
A few different tries and I got the pegs squared up and laid down the framing square just to double check. It's not what I used to achieve square.

I then ran a string across the rebar stakes and started to set up my form stakes at 3' spacing.
Then it rained of course....


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## yuri

Wow, I thought you were going to re-use some of the foundation. Nothing left but a big hole. Hopefully the rest of the crew gets er done B4 it starts snowing.


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## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Wow, I thought you were going to re-use some of the foundation. Nothing left but a big hole. Hopefully the rest of the crew gets er done B4 it starts snowing.


I _was_ is correct, going to use the footings and slab. But when I started trenching for the waste system, I found a ton of water getting by the weeping tiles so decided to go dual weeping tiles. Good thing I put a construction note about replacing the footings if the condition of the footings was not acceptable.


----------



## yuri

Yeah everything needs to be in writing. Change orders are very expensive and builders don't like them. Takes about 2-3 months to build a house here after the hole is dug. May be less with a non tract builder but they should have it buttoned up by the end of October. We got snow on Halloween one year in the peg.

Hopefully you put a internet connection in all rooms your kids will use as wireless is slow and kinda sucks. With a bungalow it is easy to add later, 2 story is difficult. I put extra wall plugs in rooms where my computer use may so you don't need as many power bars.


----------



## BigJim

The way I use to square the slab area was to drive two stakes on the front side the exact width of the slab. Then with two, one hundred foot steel tapes, hook one tape on one stake, figure the hypotenuse. Take first tape down one side from front to back and lay the tape down close to the rear corner. 

Hook the other stake and take it from front corner to the opposite rear corner where the first tape is laying. You know how deep the side of the house is, and you know the hypotenuse of the angle across. Let the two tapes cross at the width and the hypotenuse on the tapes, that will be one of the rear stakes and will be dead square. All is left is measure the other stake and there ya go.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Yeah everything needs to be in writing. Change orders are very expensive and builders don't like them. Takes about 2-3 months to build a house here after the hole is dug. May be less with a non tract builder but they should have it buttoned up by the end of October. We got snow on Halloween one year in the peg.
> 
> Hopefully you put a internet connection in all rooms your kids will use as wireless is slow and kinda sucks. With a bungalow it is easy to add later, 2 story is difficult. I put extra wall plugs in rooms where my computer use may so you don't need as many power bars.


Thanks.
No worries about the builders getting steamed as I'm the contractor.

I will wire up the whole house with CAT 6 to every room.


----------



## yuri

Not trying to re-invent your house just sharing ideas. Apparently LED lighting is very effective and a lot cheaper to run so I would look into it. Also gives off less heat which decreases your AC load.


----------



## Colbyt

Might want to pull double runs of the cat6 and coax at the same time. The 1000 foot boxes are the cheapest way to go.

Thank for the pics. They moved faster than the video.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Not trying to re-invent your house just sharing ideas. Apparently LED lighting is very effective and a lot cheaper to run so I would look into it. Also gives off less heat which decreases your AC load.


You're not trying to reinvent it but I am...ha...that's what my neighbor says every time I do something that's different than common construction practices.

LED's all the way!


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Might want to pull double runs of the cat6 and coax at the same time. The 1000 foot boxes are the cheapest way to go.
> 
> Thank for the pics. They moved faster than the video.


Double runs? Why double?

Not sure about coax. I guess that's for cable TV, right? I have my TV coming through the phone line at present but I guess I'll never know when I'll change my mind in the future about service providers.

Thanks.


----------



## yuri

Are you insulating your basement walls? Apparently there is blue ridgid foam insulation which has metal strips built onto it so you can screw the drywall right onto it w/o having to add furing strips. I would go that route as you don't need vapor barrior and it has the highest R value per inch. Saw it on " dis ole house hour a few yrs ago". That and those steel 2x4"s instead of wood for framing those walls is the way I would go.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Are you insulating your basement walls? Apparently there is blue ridgid foam insulation which has metal strips built onto it so you can screw the drywall right onto it w/o having to add furing strips. I would go that route as you don't need vapor barrior and it has the highest R value per inch. Saw it on " dis ole house hour a few yrs ago". That and those steel 2x4"s instead of wood for framing those walls is the way I would go.


I'll be gluing 2" SM on the walls, followed with 2x4 wood studs filled with 4" Roxul.
No vapor barrier.

(I'm an anti-metal :no: stud kind of guy)


----------



## Colbyt

Double cause while you can, it is best not to use the same wire for phone and network. Right now it is possible to Have one digital receiver and hop the signal to other rooms via a coax or cat5 cable. At $10-$15 per digital receiver only having one box pays for a lot of wire real quickly.

Who knows what 10years down the road will bring? At 8-9 cents a foot it is a lot easier to waste some wire than to open a wall later or try to fish it.

Cable service requires 1 home rum wire per room. A second run is needed if that is where the cable modem is located. A single LNB dish requires one wire. A dual LNB dish needs to wires. Most of HD channels come from a dish with dual feeds.

If you wanted an OTA (off the air antenna) and a dual LNB dish you would need 3 coax cables to the same location.

We built this house in 1995. My son said, why don't you pre-wire for a network. I did not foresee the need for a network. Three years later I am cutting holes and fishing wire.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Double cause while you can, it is best not to use the same wire for phone and network. Right now it is possible to Have one digital receiver and hop the signal to other rooms via a coax or cat5 cable. At $10-$15 per digital receiver only having one box pays for a lot of wire real quickly.
> 
> Who knows what 10years down the road will bring? At 8-9 cents a foot it is a lot easier to waste some wire than to open a wall later or try to fish it.
> 
> Cable service requires 1 home rum wire per room. A second run is needed if that is where the cable modem is located. A single LNB dish requires one wire. A dual LNB dish needs to wires. Most of HD channels come from a dish with dual feeds.
> 
> If you wanted an OTA (off the air antenna) and a dual LNB dish you would need 3 coax cables to the same location.
> 
> We built this house in 1995. My son said, why don't you pre-wire for a network. I did not foresee the need for a network. Three years later I am cutting holes and fishing wire.


Thanks for posting this even if it is all Greek to me. :jester:
Wow, am I ever getting out of the loop lately. I used to always be up on this stuff but all I do now is watch Netflix.

Our home phones are plugged into one jack with wireless stations throughout the house.
The FIL's, wife's, my garage computer, and children's computers are all fed via WIFI.
HD TV is through the phone system.
All this runs from one phone line coming into the house. It's what appears to be the regular ol' thin phone wire, same as years ago.

So, are you saying that from my HD receiver, can I jump it somehow to my bedroom if I was to run a wire? :huh:
Right now, all I have in my bedroom is Netflix which I can stream thru my DVD player.


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> So, are you saying that from my HD receiver, can I jump it somehow to my bedroom if I was to run a wire? :huh:



I am not informed enough to explain it properly in detail. If you had one HD Tivo (with network ability) and a small box (the mini) for each location you could record on the main and watch anywhere. You could use any of the four turners to watch 4 different shows at the same time. This page shows the basic setup tivo.com/shop/roamio#/roamio

There are other options out there. The little $99 Roku will let you stream movies from your computer via network, watch Netflix or assorted Internet channels via streaming. I have all my CDs on a stand alone hard drive that has a built in mini sever. I can listen anywhere I have a computer or network capable device like a digital TV or stereo receiver.

The advances just keep coming.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> The advances just keep coming.


You're really keeping up with them.... :thumbsup:


----------



## 123pugsy

Footing forms done except at the waste line. The rain washed away all the sand so I need to add boards to fill both sides to keep the sand tight while the footings are poured. Don't want the concrete making contact with the pipe.


----------



## 123pugsy

More pics. Of course, we had to get about 6" of rain today.
Wasn't too bad though because I was having a rough time of digging out the last 30' or so yesterday. The second pic shows the high spot. It was nice and soggy today so I was able to dig it out quickly.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few excavation pics that I missed. You just gotta know that there would be more BS to dig up.
How about a nice ol septic tank? Under the driveway you say? Full of liquid? Of course....it's the Haney place...


----------



## 123pugsy

Slot for back deck piers pictured below. I scraped the bottom level where the Bigfoot forms will sit. I used a string and plumb bob to get them in position. Used some home made "staples" to hold them in place.
I took off the tubes and made some covers. I placed some dirt around the bottoms to try to keep the water out. Scared to lift a lid now. Maybe full of water.


----------



## 123pugsy

Late last week I found a new forming company for the foundation and footings and wow, did they kick it into gear.
They came Wednesday to pour the footings. My preparation passed inspection with no problems. He just made me move some sand to look at the MJ fitting from the new PVC to clay connection.


----------



## 123pugsy

I need to give a plug to the forming company (MCF Forming) as they have been outstanding. Andrew prepared my quote within 2 days of receiving the drawings. I accepted his quote Friday and he had guys on site Wednesday. When I call, he always picks up as they don't use voice mail. He even said during one conversation that I was the customer and they needed to accommodate me...:icon_cry:....sniff....I haven't heard this kind of talk from a construction trade ever. Around here, they all have a god complex and take a it or leave it attitude.


----------



## 123pugsy

So Andrew calls late Wednesday afternoon after his guys left and tells me his other crew is coming to put up the wall forms Thursday morning rather than Monday and to schedule an inspection for Friday AM.
The inspection was for the footings of the 18 sono tubes.

The first thing they did was rip off the footing forms and lay the weeping tile. Then the slinger came in and shot gravel all around the outside perimeter. I will deal with the inside myself later. 

I just noticed as I was loading pics that they have the hole for my main copper pipe plugged with a T for the footing drains. (2nd pic) I will have to go out and rip that out this morning and have them fix it up Monday.


----------



## 123pugsy

Wall forms and sono tubes going up.


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## 123pugsy

Filled on Friday morning.
Wa-hoo....!!!!!

I was surprised to see the pumper and concrete truck almost fit on my driveway. Well, half my driveway, the city owns the bottom half.


----------



## yuri

Are you using TJI engineered joists or regular dimensional lumber?

With the AC are you leaving it on a pad on the ground or mounting it on brackets to the house?

Reason being that TJI's leave a floor so tight like a drum that the vibration from ACs sometimes transfers into the house and you feel it in the floor.

If you leave it on a good poured pad or one with good crushed gravel and large sidewalk blocks it won't happen.


----------



## BigJim

Man, that is some hard work, been there and done that. When we couldn't find someone to do our foundation work, we did it our selves, we used the steel forms though. Looks like you got a good job, they didn't let any grass grow under their feet for sure.

What are you going to do about the septic tank. Be cautious when dealing with the tank, you won't know it but methane gas will be there and that stuff is really bad news.


----------



## yuri

Call Rothschilds sewage and septic sucking service. (Any fan of the Red Green show knows who they are ).:yes:


----------



## Colbyt

You are rolling along.

Do you have enough fair weather left to get it under roof before winter?


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Are you using TJI engineered joists or regular dimensional lumber?
> 
> With the AC are you leaving it on a pad on the ground or mounting it on brackets to the house?
> 
> Reason being that TJI's leave a floor so tight like a drum that the vibration from ACs sometimes transfers into the house and you feel it in the floor.
> 
> If you leave it on a good poured pad or one with good crushed gravel and large sidewalk blocks it won't happen.


Thanks Yuri.
Yes, TJI's.
I will put it on a pad.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Man, that is some hard work, been there and done that. When we couldn't find someone to do our foundation work, we did it our selves, we used the steel forms though. Looks like you got a good job, they didn't let any grass grow under their feet for sure.
> 
> What are you going to do about the septic tank. Be cautious when dealing with the tank, you won't know it but methane gas will be there and that stuff is really bad news.


They are sailing along well.
It will be two weeks ago Monday that the excavation was finished so I'm really pleased with the turn around.

As for the septic tank, the rain police at the City nailed me with grading 2% from my garage door to the major slope in the driveway. It works out to 22" at the front of the house. I believe I have now found a place for the fill to go that needs to be removed.

The tank was full of stagnant water, and no other floaties so I think we're good.
Must have been that way for 30 years.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> You are rolling along.
> 
> Do you have enough fair weather left to get it under roof before winter?


Thanks.

If the back fill gets done quickly and the framer can get at it soon, close in by end of September is foreseeable.

Beam will be ordered as soon as the forms are pulled and trusses will be ready by the 28th.
Beam takes a week.


----------



## Colbyt

Here's hoping the weather and the subs all give you a break.


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## 123pugsy

The Bigfoot forms were lifting with the pressure of the concrete pumper. I really should have used some long spikes to hold them down. The sono tubes ended up coming too high and the concrete dude had to shove the top plates way down into the tubes to place them at the level required.

I seen them buried in the concrete Friday and just about lost it. He told me to just whack em with a large hammer and they would pop right out.

I cleaned up around the nuts with a small chisel, pulled the nuts off and sure as toot, they popped right off with a few good whacks. I used a large chisel to cut the extra cement that had formed a ridge around the edge.

I was complaining about my engineers design up to now, but these plates will make it a snap to level out the front porch.


----------



## yuri

Nothing ever goes totally to plan. :no:

Sometimes you have to develop or use what we call a "workaround".:thumbsup:


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Nothing ever goes totally to plan. :no:
> 
> Sometimes you have to develop or use what we call a "workaround".:thumbsup:


It's going pretty good thus far all considered......except that stupid septic tank.
The post tops will be buried though, so all is good.:thumbsup:


----------



## 123pugsy

Peeling off the forms was like watching a chick being hatched from an egg. There's my new foundation popping out. Cool.

I got home from work yesterday and the whole foundation had been damp proofed.


----------



## 123pugsy

Foundation mistake: I had them cast in a 3" PVC sleeve for the garage power cable.

It nagged at me that it may leak eventually so I ended up knocking the PVC out and filling it with hydraulic cement. Took about 15 batches to fill the hole up. 

I then tarred it and added a piece of membrane with tar between and then gunked around the edges.


----------



## 123pugsy

Egress window needed a window well and what better material than stainless?


----------



## BigJim

Man, that foundation looks great, looks like you are sittin on ready rockin on go, I can almost feel your enthusiasm.


----------



## Windows on Wash

+1

Great update and progress


----------



## yuri

Nice deck piles. I did the same for my sidewalk and it will never move. We have Red River gumbo ( clay ) and it swells and heaves. We also have old streams weaving thru it. Most of the homes near me are built on piles. I got lucky. They dug the hole and I was in the area and saw the soil. I am in the curve of a stream bed with no silt or clay and did not need piles. (Saved 8-10,000 $$ ). Neighbor got them and was a few feet away.

Been listing to this huge pile driver putting in 30-50 foot concrete piles for a strip mall a couple blocks away. WHACK,WHACK,WHACK for a week now. Good ole Manitoba silt and gumbo.


----------



## Colbyt

I am salivating to work on a nice new clean project like this. 

Keep the pics and comments coming.


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## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> I am salivating to work on a nice new clean project like this.
> 
> Keep the pics and comments coming.


Never tell me to keep the comments coming....I'll never shut up after that, ha....


----------



## 123pugsy

I left a voicemail message with my excavation gal that I had passed the back fill inspection today and when I got home I found the beast in the pic below sitting on the lawn.

I called when I seen it and I still couldn't get a hold of her. Don't know if they're coming tomorrow or not so I had to hustle to get my extra fabric down. I also had to to shore off the area where the new water service is coming through.


----------



## 123pugsy

Cyril from WMS showed up this morning and did his thing.


----------



## 123pugsy

He burned through 3 huge piles of fill but didn't have enough. They will finish Monday when they bring in a load.

Got all the garbage onto my truck and to the dump also. Scrap metal, I left in the alley at my workplace for one of the local scrappers to pick up.

I got the driveway hosed off and got a bit of my home back, just in time to repair the leaking tire. :thumbsup:


----------



## 123pugsy

Tomorrow I will be back on the plumbing as we (my FIL and myself) got the inside of the house cleaned of debris also.

I will start by re-digging my trenches that are now full of squished up house chunks. :wink:


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> He burned through 3 huge piles of fill but didn't have enough. They will finish Monday when they bring in a load.
> 
> Got all the garbage onto my truck and to the dump also. Scrap metal, I left in the alley at my workplace for one of the local scrappers to pick up.
> 
> I got the driveway hosed off and got a bit of my home back, just in time to repair the leaking tire. :thumbsup:


Man I like your truck, that is nice.


----------



## Beachfront

123pugsy said:


> Tomorrow I will be back on the plumbing as we (my FIL and myself) got the inside of the house cleaned of debris also.
> 
> I will start by re-digging my trenches that are now full of squished up house chunks. :wink:


Pugsy great update! I am also doing some renovations on my house, a family friend gave me some extra 15% off at a big chain retailer if you want one let me know! :thumbup:


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## ddawg16

Your project is making mine look like child's play.

Impressive


----------



## 123pugsy

Beachfront said:


> Pugsy great update! I am also doing some renovations on my house, a family friend gave me some extra 15% off at a big chain retailer if you want one let me know! :thumbup:


Thanks.

15% off.....I could sure use something like that.
Good luck with your renovations.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Your project is making mine look like child's play.
> 
> Impressive


Thanks ddawg.

That means a lot coming from you. Your project is most excellent. :thumbsup:


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## yuri

If I was your age I would be doing a project like yours. Did plenty of work like that when I was " like a rock". Bob Seger song. Don't get old.

Actually I still do well, just tend to engage the brain B4 body now.:yes:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Double runs? Why double?
> 
> Not sure about coax. I guess that's for cable TV, right? I have my TV coming through the phone line at present but I guess I'll never know when I'll change my mind in the future about service providers.
> 
> Thanks.


A little late on this topic....but I did double runs of Cat6 as well....along with RG6 to ever 'potential' TV spot. You are future proofing. If the TV handles Ethernet streaming...fine. If not, you can use the 2 Cat6's to send HDMI.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> A little late on this topic....but I did double runs of Cat6 as well....along with RG6 to ever 'potential' TV spot. You are future proofing. If the TV handles Ethernet streaming...fine. If not, you can use the 2 Cat6's to send HDMI.


Thanks.

Not too late as framing is not even up. I appreciate all input on this mysterious (to me) topic.


----------



## 123pugsy

I've been digging in the hole for the last three days. Sunday, I threw about 25 wheel barrow loads out the egress window. I had to rush this before they returned Monday to finish the back fill. 
Last night I was digging trenches for the internal weeping tiles. I got the garden hose out and did a slope test to see if the water was running to the sump pit. 

Trenching the weepers some more tonight.


----------



## 123pugsy

My fancy leveling tool. A piece of weeping tile screwed to a 2x2 for height checking.

I got three runs of weepers in place tonight. Hopefully get the rest in tomorrow along with the sump pit.


----------



## BigJim

I can almost feel the pressure you are under to get everything ready for the next guy to do his job. Here is hoping you make all your deadlines, it is looking good.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> I can almost feel the pressure you are under to get everything ready for the next guy to do his job. Here is hoping you make all your deadlines, it is looking good.


Thanks Jim.

I don't think the pressure is too great now. I believe there will be a huge delay waiting for the framing crew or locating another.

But I am definitely in a rush to get the plumbing in and the slab poured.
I will need to drop the beam in place and set the 3 posts before laying the concrete though.

Of course, I can't place the beam until I drop a g-note on the surveyor to prove to the city that the foundation is not over height and is in the correct place. Guilty until proven innocent I guess. Welcome to my town, grrrr.....:furious:

On a lighter note, my supplier dropped off the brick samples yesterday.


----------



## 123pugsy

With the above post, I realized that I forgot to post a pic of what the new house will look like and why there are two different brick colors.

The quoins and soldier courses will be the tan color and the balance of the house will be the red.

A basic rectangular farmhouse look I guess.
The heritage committee approved the design with no changes so that was OK.


----------



## yuri

Move to Winnipeg, heck of a lot less regulations here. Sounds like Ontario has the gestapo for HVAC codes and building houses and everything else. Rob Ford etc etc. Must be something in the drinking water.:laughing:


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Move to Winnipeg, heck of a lot less regulations here. Sounds like Ontario has the gestapo for HVAC codes and building houses and everything else. Rob Ford etc etc. Must be something in the drinking water.:laughing:


Don't put my buddy Rob into the mix with all the other bozos.
It's all the other schmucks causing the BS.


----------



## ddawg16

yuri said:


> Move to Winnipeg, heck of a lot less regulations here. Sounds like Ontario has the gestapo for HVAC codes and building houses and everything else. Rob Ford etc etc. Must be something in the drinking water.:laughing:


About the only thing good in Winnipeg is the Fort Gary beer and the Palomino Club. I've had to deal with the DOL (or what ever they call them now). Tons of regulations.


----------



## ddawg16

Back on the coax/Ethernet issue.

I ran conduit from from a central location in my house (data center) to the existing attic and crawl space so I can pull more cables later if I want.

You might want to make sure you have conduit stubs in key places in case you want to add stuff.


----------



## yuri

ddawg16 said:


> About the only thing good in Winnipeg is the Fort Gary beer and the Palomino Club. I've had to deal with the DOL (or what ever they call them now). Tons of regulations.


Yeah the Dept. of Labor is kinda full of itself and a pain. Along with the freon gestapo.

But we do have good beer here.:drink:


----------



## 123pugsy

I came home a few days ago and found a delivery had arrived. Didn't even know it was coming.
Wood is good.


Then Thursday morning my phone rings and the beam dude tells me he's an hour away. Cool, I says and go to meet him on site.

I noticed a little bend in the beam but thought I could shim the joists a bit. Later on that evening I walked around the other end and found it was bent a little more than I thought.

A parallel string attached to the beam 1/2" out shows it to be 11/16" bent over about 7'.

Emailed the pics to Joe at Mansteel and he was on the phone 7:30 AM the next morning calling to take care of the issue. He offered to send a guy to cut off a piece and weld a new end to it but I passed on that and insisted on a replacement which was also one of his offers.
It'll be here Tuesday.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the sump pit situated and cut the two weepers into it. I went all around and packed clay soil on both sides of the internal weeping tiles to keep the water in. This created a high pressure zone around the bottom and sides of it. If I dumped gravel on the two sides, there would have been air gaps and I believe the water would have come out of the tile instead of traveling directly to the sump pit. 

I know it was working as I has to really soak the clay/sand lumps to soften them up to squish them into position. From the furthest corner of applying water and squished clay, the water was flowing out at the sump. Sweet.


----------



## 123pugsy

Racing the clock again this week for plumbing inspection tomorrow.
I have a stone slinger booked for Friday morning at 7:30 and I have guys coming Saturday to shmooze the concrete slab. I have a guy coming tomorrow to drop the new beam into the beam pockets tomorrow as well. I will need to set the three posts and level everything before Saturday morning as well so the concrete can be poured around the base of the posts.

I filled the trenches with limestone screening for a nice cushion for the drain pipes. I then needed to glue them together which I was a little nervous about as one screw up and a whole bunch of fittings would end up in the garbage.


----------



## 123pugsy

I took the roll of 1" copper and fed it from the outside of the footing inwards. I bought a 1" conduit bender from an apron store, made the one bend and then returned it for a refund....shhhh.......

I wrapped the pipe with black tape where it will be in contact with the concrete.
I found a couple of brackets in the garage to secure the pipe for the pour.


----------



## ddawg16

Boy, can I relate....those little attentions to details....not exactly needed....but makes you feel a whole lot better.


----------



## TheEplumber

You're making good progress- hope the weather holds out. What kind of pipe is that? It seems an odd color. And what's the big p-trap for?

I like to spiral wrap my water service with some of the framers sill seal material- it allows the slab or pipe to move a tad


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> You're making good progress- hope the weather holds out. What kind of pipe is that? It seems an odd color. And what's the big p-trap for?
> 
> I like to spiral wrap my water service with some of the framers sill seal material- it allows the slab or pipe to move a tad


Pipe is PVC System 15 by Ipex. It's the only material I could find that carries all the different fittings and sizes so I don't need to use different types of pvc/abs together. Doing that just goes against my grain, especially under the slab, even when they say the transition glues work good.

The trap is the floor drain. 4"

I can use that as a clean out as well. Snake will have no issues negotiating the turns. Scope camera also.

Sill seal material sounds good. A little movement capability makes sense.


----------



## yuri

Transition glue works well. We use it all the time for high efficiency furnaces. When you put fittings together allow and give them a 1/4 to 1/8th turn so the glue spreads not just stick them in straight <------>. Use proper primer and keep em clean.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Yuri.

Plumbing inspection passed this morning and a friend came by with a boom fork lift and set the beam in place.
Sweet.
Stone slinger tomorrow and floor on Saturday.
The stars and planets are all lined up. Amazing.

I did learn why basement floors are poured after the framing is done. The inspector told me he wasn't allowed to use the ladder to go into the hole, only stairs....what the:vs_worry:??

He did however climb down and set his level down in a few spots.


----------



## yuri

Not sure what happened to Ontario. Seems like anything to do with safety or codes or inspections has gone off the deep end. One of my ON techs on the HVAC forum has some strange stories to tell.

I am all for safety but what the heck the guy is covered by workers comp which I am sure you have. If the ladder looks sketchy he has the right to refuse but to insist on stairs thats nuts.


----------



## 123pugsy

The beam was dropped into place by a friend yesterday. Mark and Howard dropped by and helped to guide it into place. They didn't actually need to touch it as David has eagle eyes still. Pretty good for an old guy.

Of course I was working hard during this. Someone had to hold the camera.....:wink2:


----------



## yuri

I like the beam idea. That way you can end up with 3 teleposts and have much nicer bedrooms and bathrooms in the basement w/o some goofy post in the way. I saw my house as a showhouse demo as it is a repeated plan house and liked where the posts are. Easy to work around so I don't need the beam. Neighbor has it. 

You know those cameras can do selfies.:smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> I like the beam idea. That way you can end up with 3 teleposts and have much nicer bedrooms and bathrooms in the basement w/o some goofy post in the way. I saw my house as a showhouse demo as it is a repeated plan house and liked where the posts are. Easy to work around so I don't need the beam. Neighbor has it.
> 
> You know those cameras can do selfies.:smile:


3 posts req'd. One is in the electrical/storage room and one is in the laundry room. The third one is at the bottom of the stairs. Furniture never goes at the bottom of the stairs and you never do anything there so I figured it would be the best place for it.


----------



## 123pugsy

The stone slinger showed up right on time this morning.

I had to take the full load so he parked the rest under the front porch.
I'm sure I'll be able to use it up somewhere.


----------



## 123pugsy

I had an extension for my sump pit made up at work so the tank could hold the greatest volume of water. This allowed me to drop it further into the ground. I don't want it cycling too often.

Further down is the floor drain showing the trap primer pipe. It's 1/2'' OD soft copper tube. I used a piece of clear vinyl hose and hose clamp on each side of the tube where it enters the drain pipe so it can't get knocked out during the pour tomorrow.
The furnace drain tube is 5/8" ID PVC braided hose.


----------



## 123pugsy

I was able to sink the washer and tub drains deeper into the gravel.
They were way over 1/4 to the foot and too close to the top of the slab.
A few random pics attached after smoothing out the gravel.


----------



## TheEplumber

It's nice to see how others build. Steel beams are not used here in houses- micro lams or paralams are the norm.
Also, neither the primer connection or the AC line would be allowed like that....
Primer would need a water tight connection and the AC would need a hub drain or floor drain.
Good to see your progress though. Hope the rain holds off for the slab pour :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> It's nice to see how others build. Steel beams are not used here in houses- micro lams or paralams are the norm.
> Also, neither the primer connection or the AC line would be allowed like that....
> Primer would need a water tight connection and the AC would need a hub drain or floor drain.
> Good to see your progress though. Hope the rain holds off for the slab pour :wink2:


Thanks.

I had spec'd triple LVL's with TJI's hanging from them. Then I was told about the floor hump that comes from this type of framing so I changed the design.

I sealed off the trap primer as best I could and the AC drain goes into the floor drain. It's above the trap so it's an indirect connection. It just enters the side rather than dripping thru the top which would require a line across the floor.

And no rain in site for the whole weekend. It's all flowing on the west coast I hear. They can keep it til the end of the weekend. :thumbsup:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I had spec'd triple LVL's with TJI's hanging from them. Then I was told about the floor hump that comes from this type of framing so I changed the design.
> 
> I sealed off the trap primer as best I could and the AC drain goes into the floor drain. It's above the trap so it's an indirect connection. It just enters the side rather than dripping thru the top which would require a line across the floor.
> 
> And no rain in site for the whole weekend. It's all flowing on the west coast I hear. They can keep it til the end of the weekend. :thumbsup:


Floor hump?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Floor hump?


Yes. With the joists hanging off the beam flush, they tend to sag downwards either side of the beam and a hump is created.
I've read where the joists should be hung 1/8" - 1/4" higher than the beam to avoid this hump but I don't trust this idea so I've gone with a sure thing. My joists will be 26' and span right over the beam. 12" centers.


----------



## yuri

The furnace drain and AC can be done in the same line. I would not use braided as bacteria eventually builds up and can plug it. Smooth 3/4" PVC would be better. The sump pump does not care about the height above it. The float works from bottom of pit up or if you get a Little Giant that uses a pressure membrane/micro switch it does the same.

If you want to get fancy you can pour bleach down that furnace drain once a year and if it is smooth you should never have a problem. I hate buried drains like that as when they plug you are pooched.

If that happens you can use a condensate pump and pump it to a plumbing drain or sink or washer standpipe.


----------



## 123pugsy

WOW! 
What a week. Stressed out all week even though everything was just clicking into place day after day.

So I just should have known something was gonna go wrong and to call the concrete supplier to order an extra yard and a half. Oh well, they had a guy here within an hour of the first guy leaving. Cost a bunch more dollars but what are you gonna do?
I've never ordered concrete before, but I'll know better next time.


----------



## 123pugsy

More floor pour.................


----------



## HDS

123pugsy said:


> Yes. With the joists hanging off the beam flush, they tend to sag downwards either side of the beam and a hump is created.
> I've read where the joists should be hung 1/8" - 1/4" higher than the beam to avoid this hump but I don't trust this idea so I've gone with a sure thing. My joists will be 26' and span right over the beam. 12" centers.


Thanks for posting, it has been great following your work to date!

Do you plan on using and natural stone on your first floor? You'll have 13' spans and if going with the typical 2x10, the floor deflection even at 12" centers will only be good for ceramic tile. If your kitchen or entrance is going to be stone, now would be a good time to up the joists. 

On second thought, if you have some walls in the basement you'll also be able to cut the spans down as well.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


----------



## 123pugsy

HDS said:


> Thanks for posting, it has been great following your work to date!
> 
> Do you plan on using and natural stone on your first floor? You'll have 13' spans and if going with the typical 2x10, the floor deflection even at 12" centers will only be good for ceramic tile. If your kitchen or entrance is going to be stone, now would be a good time to up the joists.
> 
> On second thought, if you have some walls in the basement you'll also be able to cut the spans down as well.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Thanks.

9-1/2" TJI engineered floor joists.
I'm not worried about stone floors as I won't be using any.
I'm pretty sure tiles will live on this floor without issue.


----------



## Colbyt

When it comes to rocks and concrete the extra haul charge is very often cheaper that the disposal fee for the surplus.


----------



## BigJim

Y'all don't use poly under the concrete up your way?


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> When it comes to rocks and concrete the extra haul charge is very often cheaper that the disposal fee for the surplus.


I was talking to the driver and they have empty forms set up in their yard so they can fill them with free concrete and then sell the product. Pretty good deal for them.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Y'all don't use poly under the concrete up your way?


Most don't use poly. Hopefully, my weeping tile system works as well as I believe it should and all will be good. 

But then again.....there is the Pugsy luck just waiting for me......:001_unsure:


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> I was talking to the driver and they have empty forms set up in their yard so they can fill them with free concrete and then sell the product. Pretty good deal for them.



Also not a bad deal for the customer. Around here you order it, you take it and how to get rid of it is your problem.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Also not a bad deal for the customer. Around here you order it, you take it and how to get rid of it is your problem.


Ya, that's exactly what I was afraid of so I ended up short. I only found out _after_ the driver was there and he told me about it.

The concrete pumper slopped his load onto a pile of back fill before he left and I ended up shoveling into the trench with the deck piers before it set.


----------



## 123pugsy

BIG day today. The framers finally showed up.

The first floor is in and I have a basement!


----------



## 123pugsy

Day 2 of framing gave us first floor walls. YES!


----------



## TheEplumber

I haven't seen headers at the top plate in a while. Is that common there?


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> I haven't seen headers at the top plate in a while. Is that common there?


Yes, it's common here. At first I thought it strange, but it makes more sense as the top plate is fully supported and it wouldn't matter where a load was placed on it.
I'm sure a joist or truss can be placed anywhere on a double top plate regardless, but it seems a tinch stronger to me.


----------



## TheEplumber

123pugsy said:


> Yes, it's common here. At first I thought it strange, but it makes more sense as the top plate is fully supported and it wouldn't matter where a load was placed on it.
> I'm sure a joist or truss can be placed anywhere on a double top plate regardless, but it seems a tinch stronger to me.


True , but does it weaken the top of the opening as far as lateral movement? 
Probably not enough to make an issue seems how its standard practice there.


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> True , but does it weaken the top of the opening as far as lateral movement?
> Probably not enough to make an issue seems how its standard practice there.


You'll see it done both ways here.
Nothing is falling down, so should be fine.


----------



## 123pugsy

Floor trusses are in and sheathing installed.


----------



## 123pugsy

A delivery pulled up when I was checking out the new 2nd floor job.
Sweet, timing has really been clicking lately.....

Too bad that the driver got himself a dose of Pugsy luck as soon as he parked his rig in my driveway. The crane died and he was there for about six hours while it was being fixed.


----------



## 123pugsy

Most of the second floor walls went up yesterday as the delivery truck was being fixed. The rest went up today along with the interior walls.


----------



## 123pugsy

A load of trusses up on top ready for tomorrow's installation.
Sweet!


----------



## Colbyt

You are moving right along. May even beat old man winter.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> You are moving right along. May even beat old man winter.


Thanks.

Not me moving along. The framing crew is really hustling.
I just clean up around the site and fetch more lumber and stuff. Answer a few questions here and there.

Got to start getting ready for wiring and plumbing though.
Also, I will need to cut a million bricks or so.


----------



## BigJim

They are coming along great, looks like you will be in the dry very soon. Looking good!


----------



## yuri

You should be fine. Earliest we ever got Winter/snow was Hallloween (Oct 31) back in 1970. I remember going to the end of the driveway and turning back as it snowed hard. No trick or treating that year. It melted a few days later. Usually on Nov.11 here it is rainy sloppy but as long as you got a roof you will be OK.

They build all Winter long where I am. Shovel/sweep the snow off the floor and away they go.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> They are coming along great, looks like you will be in the dry very soon. Looking good!


Thanks.

I'm sick of mud and rain so into the dry sounds great.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> You should be fine. Earliest we ever got Winter/snow was Hallloween (Oct 31) back in 1970. I remember going to the end of the driveway and turning back as it snowed hard. No trick or treating that year. It melted a few days later. Usually on Nov.11 here it is rainy sloppy but as long as you got a roof you will be OK.
> 
> They build all Winter long where I am. Shovel/sweep the snow off the floor and away they go.


They??
Darn, I am "they"...ha.....

Snow usually doesn't stick until mid December here. If I can get the HVAC guys in next week, and some power run, I can get the gas hooked up.
This is priority at this time.


----------



## yuri

Yeah we don't usually get snow that stays until early December.

Remember the time it came real early in November. Couple inches on the grass in the field next to us. Was home early so I fired up the old Alouette power tobaggan and went racing along the road to show off to the kids on the school bus. Gotta love the Great White North. Melted the next day.


----------



## BigJim

yuri said:


> Yeah we don't usually get snow that stays until early December.
> 
> Remember the time it came real early in November. Couple inches on the grass in the field next to us. Was home early so I fired up the old Alouette power tobaggan and went racing along the road to show off to the kids on the school bus. Gotta love the Great White North. Melted the next day.


Man that would be so much fun, I have never even seen a snowmobile in person.

As for building in the winter, it was no fun having to bust the ice off the top plate to lay out for ceiling joists.


----------



## 123pugsy

Roof trusses up.
It sure doesn't look right at this point. 
I was getting real nervous about my "pretending to be an architect" and my designing prowess was in question...ha....


----------



## 123pugsy

The next step was to get the front dormer gable truss into place.
All the lookouts were added and finally the sheathing.
The front porch roof was also started yesterday.

It's starting to look a lot better. I was really worried about it to this point.


----------



## 123pugsy

A window sizing error caused me to do some unorthodox sill sealing.
I ordered the windows 1/2" smaller than the rough stud opening. No room for a sloped sill plate before applying the blue skin so I stapled a 3/16" diameter stainless steel rod across the rear of the opening. My custom staple forming tool took care of the square corners on the staples.I then wrapped the blue skin over it, creating a water stop hump.

The holes at each corner will receive poly caulk for a good seal.


----------



## williamlayton

way to go----improvise and adapt.
Blessings


----------



## Windows on Wash

+1

Nice little damn leg in it now. 

You could used some sloped cedar as well.


----------



## BigJim

Way back when I was building we didn't have the window flashing like now, we did have the house wrap, what a great improvement over what it use to be.

Are you going to pan all your exterior doors also? We couldn't buy ready made pans but I made them out of aluminum roll flashing, worked like a charm and it kept the floor and ceils under the doors from rotting.


----------



## ddawg16

How come my house didn't go that fast?


----------



## Colbyt

Cause you did not Pugsy onsite to supervise!


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Way back when I was building we didn't have the window flashing like now, we did have the house wrap, what a great improvement over what it use to be.
> 
> Are you going to pan all your exterior doors also? We couldn't buy ready made pans but I made them out of aluminum roll flashing, worked like a charm and it kept the floor and ceils under the doors from rotting.


Thanks Jim.

Yes, I will make up some kind of flashing.
Nothing worse than water damage.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> How come my house didn't go that fast?


Yep. See below:





Colbyt said:


> Cause you did not Pugsy onsite to supervise!


Thanks. My whipping arm is sore now. The framing crew walked off the job this afternoon. Holy snap!

They were finished, is why, ha......


----------



## TheEplumber

123pugsy said:


> The framing crew walked off the job this afternoon. Holy snap!
> 
> They were finished, is why, ha......


Keep that retention money till the inspector signs off :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

I got some house wrap up below some more windows so I could stick on the sill flashing. The windows are coming Thursday and will be installed Friday. Sweet!

The framers got the porch finished today. I'm quite happy with the look of the open rafters and the T1-11 sheathing. There is 3/4" ply on top so the roofing nails don't pop through. I hope 1-3/8" is thick enough. 

Temporary stairs to basement in as well. Nice.

Last pic shows my approximately 7' x 5' framing square to help layout the basement walls. I did this yesterday so they could place the landing today.


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> Keep that retention money till the inspector signs off :devil3:


Should be fine. They installed everything I designed. If there's any issues, they will come to fix it up.

The framer is a friend of a friend and very professional.

Signs off? Do your inspectors sign off? All I have so far is, "it looks good" , or, "no problem, OK".

I will cut some squash blocks from scrap and tap them in beside the truss joists. No biggie.


----------



## BigJim

The framers up your way don't run the cornice, black in the roof, and install the exterior doors and windows?


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> The framers up your way don't run the cornice, black in the roof, and install the exterior doors and windows?


Nope.

Roofers do the roof. Heck, the framers say the vent pipe hole is the plumber's job, and the bath fan vent is the HVAC guy's job, ...ha....but he cut them anyways.

He is sending a fellow Friday though, to install the windows.

Roofers should be here late this week as well.

Exterior doors are not ready even though I ordered them 3 months ago.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good boss.


----------



## Colbyt

The porch did the trick on softening the height of the house. Nice looking build.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Looking good boss.


Thanks.



Colbyt said:


> The porch did the trick on softening the height of the house. Nice looking build.


Thanks.
It really needed something there for sure.


----------



## BigJim

I think building kinda gets in the blood, as many as I have built (well my company and I) I still get excited when seeing a house get to this point. If I didn't build the house, I wouldn't let the framers set the exterior doors because most of them would try to bury the 12d nails with their waffle faced framing hammers, not to mention not very plumb.

I always let the plumber and HVAC guy cut the holes in the roof because they may decide to run the stack out somewhere other than where I cut the hole. LOL.

I will say your house is built very solid and looks great. Are you going to run the cornice? All that scaffolding was not my favorite thing to do.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> I think building kinda gets in the blood, as many as I have built (well my company and I) I still get excited when seeing a house get to this point. If I didn't build the house, I wouldn't let the framers set the exterior doors because most of them would try to bury the 12d nails with their waffle faced framing hammers, not to mention not very plumb.
> 
> I always let the plumber and HVAC guy cut the holes in the roof because they may decide to run the stack out somewhere other than where I cut the hole. LOL.
> 
> I will say your house is built very solid and looks great. Are you going to run the cornice? All that scaffolding was not my favorite thing to do.


Thanks Jim. 
I believe it's strong. Trusses at 16" and 5/8 T&G plywood sheathing.

HVAC outlets will be fine as they are very close to the exhaust fans.
As for the plumbing stacks, I'm the plumber and I'll have to manage to get the vent pipes connected.

As for cornice, I have no idea what you're talking about, DUH....


----------



## BigJim

That's what I said, you are the plumber and already know where the holes in the roof go. :biggrin2: 

You are puttin the shuck on me about the cornice...right. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> That's what I said, you are the plumber and already know where the holes in the roof go. :biggrin2:
> 
> You are puttin the shuck on me about the cornice...right. :smile:


Nope. Never heard of a cornice. :vs_worry:

All I think of are those curly cue plaster thingies.


----------



## BigJim

This is what I always called the cornice on a house.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> This is what I always called the cornice on a house.


Thanks Jim.

I had a feeling there were different terminologies in different locations.
All the stuff you show is the_ Aluminum Dude's_ territory. Or mine...:surprise:....groan.......

Not sure if Aluminum Dude is the proper job title but it sounds cool....ha...

The bricks also need to be installed before the soffits are put in.


----------



## Colbyt

Big Jim is showing his age.  Most of us call that a soffit. Or that overhang thingee.


----------



## yuri

HVAC outlets will be fine as they are very close to the exhaust fans.
As for the plumbing stacks, I'm the plumber and I'll have to manage to get the vent pipes connected.


As far as the HVAC vents being close to the exhaust fan outlets hopefully you checked with your HVAC guy about minimum distance seperation and the gas code.

Ontario is VERY anal about "interpreting" the gas code down to the finest detail for what we call "mechanical ventilation". Also has to do with the distance from the gas meter and the HRV vents etc. There is some controversy about what they consider mechanical ventilation and the gas code is open to interpretation by the inspectors. Sounds dumb but it is what it is. Your local guy should know what the inspectors want. We have a poster supers05 at the HVAC forum which is very familiar with that issue and is from ON. Start a thread there and PM him if you want.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> HVAC outlets will be fine as they are very close to the exhaust fans.
> As for the plumbing stacks, I'm the plumber and I'll have to manage to get the vent pipes connected.
> 
> 
> As far as the HVAC vents being close to the exhaust fan outlets hopefully you checked with your HVAC guy about minimum distance seperation and the gas code.
> 
> Ontario is VERY anal about "interpreting" the gas code down to the finest detail for what we call "mechanical ventilation". Also has to do with the distance from the gas meter and the HRV vents etc. There is some controversy about what they consider mechanical ventilation and the gas code is open to interpretation by the inspectors. Sounds dumb but it is what it is. Your local guy should know what the inspectors want. We have a poster supers05 at the HVAC forum which is very familiar with that issue and is from ON. Start a thread there and PM him if you want.


Thanks Yuri.

What I should have said was bath fan outlets. No restrictions except for soffit and attic exhausting.

I have hired an HVAC company. They should know all codes as you mentioned. Anything questionable, I will post pics.

Off the top of your head, is their a distance restriction for a gas meter to a basement window which is lower than the meter?
I found a yellow arrow on my foundation wall this morning with the word GAS painted there.
I installed my structural stainless steel bracket there for them to bolt the meter to.
I'll get a pic later.


----------



## yuri

Start a thread in the HVAC forum called Distance to Gas meter.

I am sure supers05 who is very helpful will help you. Post some pics for him as we need to see what is going on. Ignore the advice from other "helpful" posters as it is TOTALLY specific from Province to Province/inspector to inspector. We are a bit more slack in Wpg. Same can happen with elect inspectors. There can be interpretations of the code. Don't want to hack a hole in and then have it fail.

I cannot remember but do you have a HRV?

If so the intake needs to be X distance from a gas meter or furnace exhaust. Dryer vents seem to be a issue in ON as well as a basic fresh air intake for a furnace if not using a HRV. They are concerned gas can get sucked in if the meter starts leaking or the furnace exhaust can recirculate into a intake. Can happen with a no wind perfect combination of barometric pressure situation.


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Jim.
> 
> I had a feeling there were different terminologies in different locations.
> All the stuff you show is the_ Aluminum Dude's_ territory. Or mine...:surprise:....groan.......
> 
> Not sure if Aluminum Dude is the proper job title but it sounds cool....ha...
> 
> The bricks also need to be installed before the soffits are put in.


If you are having the "cornice" wrapped then it will be their job. I see you already have the fascia 2X in place so there is nothing for you to do if it is going to receive aluminum. 

Are you going to run the brick up behind the soffit or is there going to be a brick box? Way back when I was building we always had the finished "cornice" complete so the brick mason would have something to work too. We didn't want to come in after the brick was laid, that would have been very difficult not to mention the chance of knocking the brick loose..

I know things have changed a lot since I was building so maybe there is a way the brick masons and siding people do now that didn't back then. I sure wouldn't want to try to get a nailer for the soffit in place with the brick already laid.

Just brain storming, trying to save you some work and grief. Below is what I am talking about "brick behind the soffit" (First picture) or a "brick box" (second picture).


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> If you are having the "cornice" wrapped then it will be their job. I see you already have the fascia 2X in place so there is nothing for you to do if it is going to receive aluminum.
> 
> Are you going to run the brick up behind the soffit or is there going to be a brick box? Way back when I was building we always had the finished "cornice" complete so the brick mason would have something to work too. We didn't want to come in after the brick was laid, that would have been very difficult not to mention the chance of knocking the brick loose..
> 
> I know things have changed a lot since I was building so maybe there is a way the brick masons and siding people do now that didn't back then. I sure wouldn't want to try to get a nailer for the soffit in place with the brick already laid.
> 
> Just brain storming, trying to save you some work and grief. Below is what I am talking about "brick behind the soffit" (First picture) or a "brick box" (second picture).


Hmmm....I thought the brick would run behind the soffit.
The Aluminum Dude will have to attach to the brick I guess.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Start a thread in the HVAC forum called Distance to Gas meter.
> 
> I am sure supers05 who is very helpful will help you. Post some pics for him as we need to see what is going on. Ignore the advice from other "helpful" posters as it is TOTALLY specific from Province to Province/inspector to inspector. We are a bit more slack in Wpg. Same can happen with elect inspectors. There can be interpretations of the code. Don't want to hack a hole in and then have it fail.
> 
> I cannot remember but do you have a HRV?
> 
> If so the intake needs to be X distance from a gas meter or furnace exhaust. Dryer vents seem to be a issue in ON as well as a basic fresh air intake for a furnace if not using a HRV. They are concerned gas can get sucked in if the meter starts leaking or the furnace exhaust can recirculate into a intake. Can happen with a no wind perfect combination of barometric pressure situation.


Thanks Yuri.

I had thought I responded to this.

The meter will be 3' from the window. This is the side that doesn't open. It will be at least 5.5' from the part that opens.
This window is between the meter and the mechanical room where all the intakes and exhausts will be.

I do have an HRV on my HVAC plans. It will be supplied by the HVAC Dudes.
I'll have to rely on their knowledge to figure out all the intake and exhaust locations. I also have a 6" return air for the kitchen fan as well to throw into the mix. There very well may be some ducts running up the wall to find the fresh air. I have about 12' of wall to get everything out (and in).


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows arrived as planned and were installed, except for the two attic windows. I'll pop those in when the bricklayers set up their scaffold.

I added house wrap to the sides of the window openings prior to installation.


----------



## 123pugsy

I brought my new top cap and guardrail home from work and set it in place on the window well. I'll measure for the gate after the bricks are installed. 

I'll have to remake the ladder as it's hard to climb.


----------



## 123pugsy

Have you ever laid tiles and prayed it didn't rain? :surprise:
That's what I was doing this weekend. No shingles yet and all the rain water ends up in the basement. Most people have a dry house and usually have walls up also before tiling.

I had to tile the furnace room floor as the HVAC Dudes could be starting as early as Thursday. The rain gods have been smiling on me though and not enough rain to come thru the roof and two floors in the last few days.


----------



## 123pugsy

I need to hustle with my drain pipes now before the HVAC Dudes try to use my wall and joist cavities for their own nefarious dealings. :vs_no_no_no: I got the main stack fit to just above the first floor.
Need to get moving on the two upstairs washroom drains tomorrow.


----------



## user_12345a

damn, how did you learn to coordinate a project like this? worked in other trades?

looks good.

did you decide to re-use all hvac equipment from the previous house or is it all new stuff?


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> damn, how did you learn to coordinate a project like this? worked in other trades?
> 
> looks good.
> 
> did you decide to re-use all hvac equipment from the previous house or is it all new stuff?


Thanks.

Coordinate? I'm flyin by the seat of my pants. Every time I have a new trade coming, I need to prepare (seems like) a million things so they can get started. Every trade that comes in doesn't do this or doesn't do that. 

I am reusing my furnace, A/C and water heater as they are all 3 years old or less. The furnace is actually over sized according to the HVAC engineer but he said I could still use it.
A/C is over sized but I will try it anyways. No more money in the budget.


----------



## BigJim

This is the point of building that progress looks like it slows down to most home owners. But in the background it sure doesn't slow down for the one coordinating everything. When to call who next, so one trade isn't there before they should be, is the trick.


----------



## yuri

As long as you are not renting a house for your family and have to get out on time then you can drag it on longer. With a builder even they cannot guarantee a move in date within 2 months. Being your own project manager saves $$ but yeah a builder may have the edge on co-ordination as they do it all the time.


----------



## ddawg16

Once the roof is on and outside bricks done.....you buy yourself a lot of time.

If it was me, once the above is done....I'd concentrate on getting one floor 'livable' and move in. I'm assuming your doing your own drywall? 

You will be amazed at how much stuff you get done when your living in your work zone. You only go to bed when your too tired to do any more work....or run out of beer.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> ................ But in the background it sure doesn't slow down for the one coordinating everything. When to call who next, so one trade isn't there before they should be, is the trick.


This part is quite frustrating for sure.

HVAC just told me about his new delay, but the roofers are on site, so should be fine.
Gas has not been reinstalled yet, so no worries for now.

Bricklayers are not available whatsoever in the Toronto area at present. I found one for mid November and will be meeting with him this weekend.

I should have time now to trench out the water line to the curb box.


----------



## user_12345a

> The furnace is actually over sized according to the HVAC engineer but he said I could still use it.
> A/C is over sized but I will try it anyways. No more money in the budget


Yah, there are ways to mitigate the effect of an oversized a/c like using a lower fan speed and running a dehumidifier.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> Yah, there are ways to mitigate the effect of an oversized a/c like using a lower fan speed and running a dehumidifier.


Thanks.

I'll have to start a new thread about lowering the fan speed after it's up and running.


----------



## yuri

I would not count on that. If you get it too slow the evap coil will freeze up. There is NO way to cheat in the HVAC biz. Putting a 1/2 ton larger coil is done in Florida for more humidity removal but we don't do that at all in Wpg. May help a bit around the Great Lakes.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> ........... May help a bit around the Great Lakes.


Well, let's hope it does.


----------



## yuri

Point being you cannot just arbitrarily slow it down. The freon pressures would need checking plus the temp drop across the coil PLUS you will lose a lot of your airflow upstairs. Robbing Peter to pay Paul. Plus on cool days with low load if it is running or one of the kids or MIL or wife turns it on it can be at the coil freezing point. Then it slugs freon and destroys your compressor. Takes a lot of yrs of experience and having seen what can go wrong to know what can happen. Nothing against internet advice but some of it is heresay and not from actual experienced techs so buyer beware.


----------



## user_12345a

You don't need to start a new thread on that.

This is all there is to it: 

There's an acceptable airflow range - 350-450 cfm per ton. 350 cfm per ton shouldn't freeze the coil and will improve dehumidification at the expense of capacity (something u want for the longer cycles), lose a little bit of efficiency, but be more comfortable. 

Simply a matter of having the board set for 1225 cfm or a little higher instead of the usual 1400 for the 3.5 ton. Coil won't freeze unless you have a really low return air temp. 

In a less than 2500 sq ft house, 1200 cfm+ is plenty, I saw the load calc and if i remember right that house only needs something like 2 or 2.5 tons (which is typical), only 800-1000 cfm respectively. You shouldn't have issues at 1200+ cfm for a house of your size.

Got low airflow going upstairs at 350 cfm per ton? Balance the system; close dampers on the main floor to get air where you want it, ecm motor will automatically compensate.

Can try a cheap dehumidifier if it still runs too little and doesn't pull enough moisture out.

-------------
Addition:

It goes without saying that the system will have to be recomissioned. Your heating contractor should deal with. Airflow changes, lineset length changes, etc do will impact the charge, and it will have to be re-adjusted for sure. (hopefully they pumped it down and saved all the refrigerant)



> Nothing against internet advice but some of it is heresay and not from actual experienced techs so buyer beware.


Ya, ya - the same experienced techs who are set in their old ways and leave the fan speed at factory setting regardless of the size and don't charge with superheat/subcooling or a manufacturer's chart. Yah, those guys. Experience alone means nothing, could have been many years of doing it wrong, especially traditional "old school" guys who started back when it was legal to vent freon.


----------



## yuri

Nothing wrong with 350 cfm/ton but it has to work properly under low loads. Just be careful as there is theory and then there is reality. 

I set every unit with superheat and subcool and Lennox uses the approach system. I also set every ECM up properly. Unfortunately a lot of new units are just dumped out of a box and let fly. Has nothing to do with theory and making blanket statements about slowing down fans. Readers of this and these posts need to be aware of the worst case scenario. If they want to take a chance on damaging their compressor under low load to try get more humdity removal that is their choice.


----------



## user_12345a

My last post on this since we're cluttering the thread:

If freezing is a concern, there are ways to minimize the risk of that - an option is to actually run at normal airflow and slow it down only on demand with a humidistat. if you want more details, post in the hvac forum when the time comes to having the stuff put back in and set up.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> My last post on this since we're cluttering the thread:
> 
> If freezing is a concern, there are ways to minimize the risk of that - an option is to actually run at normal airflow and slow it down only on demand with a humidistat. if you want more details, post in the hvac forum when the time comes to having the stuff put back in and set up.


Thanks guys. Get your gloves on and go here, ha....

http://www.diychatroom.com/f17/humidity-turn-down-c-air-flow-not-323313/#post2561273


----------



## yuri

Actually my main concern is that other readers don't go tamper with their fan speed and create a problem. OK to do as long as the freon pressures and proper readings are done.

If you can be comfy upstairs with reduced CFM great. Most of my customers want more air upstairs as heat rises and are not concerned with humidity. However it is only around 50% RH in Wpg.

I have a customer with a 5" pleated MERV 16 filter and a basic PSC motor and I run 350 cfm for her with no problems.:smile:
Very rare but her ducts are big enough and she wants it quieter and does not mind it being warmer upstairs.


----------



## jomama45

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Jim.
> 
> I had a feeling there were different terminologies in different locations.
> All the stuff you show is the_ Aluminum Dude's_ territory. Or mine...:surprise:....groan.......
> 
> Not sure if Aluminum Dude is the proper job title but it sounds cool....ha...
> 
> The bricks also need to be installed before the soffits are put in.


Nice looking project, and excellent management skills on your part...........

We generally install brick once the soffit is up already, but there's really several acceptable ways to do it. I'd let it up to the masons and aluminum conctractors to decide what order they prefer.

While on the topic though, I would HIGHLY recommend leaving some air space open where the bricks meet the soffit, so the attic ventilation draws air from behind the brick wall. Coupled with a 1" air space (25 mm up North) and plenty of weeps at the base of the wall, you will eliminate 95% of common moisture issues seen on brick veneer walls........


----------



## 123pugsy

jomama45 said:


> Nice looking project, and excellent management skills on your part...........
> 
> We generally install brick once the soffit is up already, but there's really several acceptable ways to do it. I'd let it up to the masons and aluminum conctractors to decide what order they prefer.
> 
> While on the topic though, I would HIGHLY recommend leaving some air space open where the bricks meet the soffit, so the attic ventilation draws air from behind the brick wall. Coupled with a 1" air space (25 mm up North) and plenty of weeps at the base of the wall, you will eliminate 95% of common moisture issues seen on brick veneer walls........


Thanks.

There will be a space at the top of the bricks.
They will go just a bit higher than the soffit. I will let the soffit Dude figure out how to attach it. My neighbor did it this way so I can use his guy as he knows how to do it and he did a good job.


----------



## 123pugsy

The roofers got the shingles done. The color is a lot darker than I asked for but looks a lot "righter" than the color I asked for...or is that "correcter"??:vs_worry:


----------



## yuri

Probably it is like buying paint using those small color sample strips. Had a interior decorator help with choosing the paint and counters and colors in my house as the Builder provided her free. She said you have to choose 2 shades darker than those strips as you see them under artificial light in a store. Plus when applied to a large wall the perspective changes. That is why they have interior decorators. Likely you saw the shingle samples under a different light and in the real world they look a bit different. Sounds like you like them. I was impressed with the decorator and the final result.


----------



## BigJim

Two more windows and house wrap and you are good to go. I assume they will cover the porch this week. You have done an outstanding job, it looks great.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Probably it is like buying paint using those small color sample strips. Had a interior decorator help with choosing the paint and counters and colors in my house as the Builder provided her free. She said you have to choose 2 shades darker than those strips as you see them under artificial light in a store. Plus when applied to a large wall the perspective changes. That is why they have interior decorators. Likely you saw the shingle samples under a different light and in the real world they look a bit different. Sounds like you like them. I was impressed with the decorator and the final result.


Nah, nothing like that. It's again the fact the up here we get jack compared to the States.

Supplier sent me a link to the American site for Certainteed and said pick a color. I picked charcoal gray and she said up here in Canada, they supply so and so color and is the same. Ha, ya right.

They just don't give us all the same colors as they give in the States. These differences really tick me off. :vs_mad:


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Two more windows and house wrap and you are good to go. I assume they will cover the porch this week. You have done an outstanding job, it looks great.


Thanks.

I'll get the brick layers to pull the house wrap and then I'll use his scaffolding to install the windows.

Porch roof will be done after the bricks.


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> They just don't give us all the same colors as they give in the States. These differences really tick me off. :vs_mad:



With the overall cooler temps that probably works out for the best.

I am real happy for you; it looks like you might get weather tight real soon.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got to work on the ABS drain pipes for the two upstairs washrooms.

I removed the top layer of plywood from the spacers already. Didn't want the flanges too high.


----------



## TheEplumber

Looking good, but I got to warn you- that double wye is not allowed for a fixture cross in my neck of the woods :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> Looking good, but I got to warn you- that double wye is not allowed for a fixture cross in my neck of the woods :wink2:


Thanks.

OBC allows it. Pic attached is from the code book.

#'s 4 & 9 may not be used with the 3" horizontals I've got.


----------



## user_12345a

yuri said:


> Probably it is like buying paint using those small color sample strips. Had a interior decorator help with choosing the paint and counters and colors in my house as the Builder provided her free. She said you have to choose 2 shades darker than those strips as you see them under artificial light in a store. Plus when applied to a large wall the perspective changes. That is why they have interior decorators. Likely you saw the shingle samples under a different light and in the real world they look a bit different. Sounds like you like them. I was impressed with the decorator and the final result.


lol

if it's free fine, but i think paying someone to pick paint colours or finishes, where to put furniture is funny. it's a sign of the times -> too much over specialization.


----------



## Colbyt

They have my picture posted at the paint store. I'm not allowed to buy a new color without a note from my wife or a decorator.


----------



## ddawg16

TheEplumber said:


> Looking good, but I got to warn you- that double wye is not allowed for a fixture cross in my neck of the woods :wink2:


Just curious.....wye?


----------



## yuri

user_12345a said:


> lol
> 
> if it's free fine, but i think paying someone to pick paint colours or finishes, where to put furniture is funny. it's a sign of the times -> too much over specialization.


I am sure it was not free but built into the house cost. I guess the Builders don't want some people coming up with weird color schemes etc and then people come over and say " who built your house" and see some ugly mess and give them a bad rep. I am sure some people turn down the decorator but in my case it worked out . When selling I will pay a decorator/home stager to come in and make it look like a show home.


----------



## TheEplumber

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> OBC allows it. Pic attached is from the code book.
> 
> #'s 4 & 9 may not be used with the 3" horizontals I've got.


If you say so... What I read on your picture is branch lines connecting to a stack, it didn't mention toilet arms.

Keep me posted please


----------



## TheEplumber

ddawg16 said:


> Just curious.....wye?


Is this a play on or words or do you want to know?
I'll tell you anyways. The Wye does not allow air into the trap arm due to the 45 angle of the Wye. Compare the pattern to a San tee- which is the proper fitting.


----------



## ddawg16

TheEplumber said:


> Is this a play on or words or do you want to know?
> I'll tell you anyways. The Wye does not allow air into the trap arm due to the 45 angle of the Wye. Compare the pattern to a San tee- which is the proper fitting.


Both.....couldn't resist.....

Thanks for the explanation....


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> Is this a play on or words or do you want to know?
> I'll tell you anyways. The Wye does not allow air into the trap arm due to the 45 angle of the Wye. Compare the pattern to a San tee- which is the proper fitting.


Interesting.
What are these designed for? Horizontal waste lines?

One 3" W/C run is 7' with a wet vent joining the line. There is also a shower line joining in that has a vent also.

The other 3" W/C run is no more than 2' before it drops into the stack. No vent. Do you feel the toilet won't flush well on this run?


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more plumbing pics. I got my pipes in place just before the HVAC Dudes came. They wanted to use some of my space but no way that was going to happen.


----------



## 123pugsy

HVAC team showed up yesterday. First thing I noticed was the studs in the double wide wall for several ducts didn't line up too well with the floor joists above. No problem, I just hammered them out of the way and left the boys a nice clean place to hack up. And hack they did....


----------



## 123pugsy

They got a bunch of stuff roughed in. They measured up before they left so they could order the ducts for the basement to be fabbed up. They should be back next week to finish up.


----------



## 123pugsy

Of course, I just couldn't take the thought of leaving that hacked up wall the way it was, so I took matters into my own hands when I got home from work.....


----------



## yuri

If you want to get fancy get some silver foil duct tape from HDepot and seal all the joints where the pipes attach and meet the elbows and boots. Every bit of less leakage helps.


----------



## ddawg16

yuri said:


> If you want to get fancy get some silver foil duct tape from HDepot and seal all the joints where the pipes attach and meet the elbows and boots. Every bit of less leakage helps.


Or Mastic.....love the stuff.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Or Mastic.....love the stuff.


Thanks dawg.

Again, another item easy to find in the States, but not here.


----------



## Colbyt

yuri said:


> If you want to get fancy get some silver foil duct tape from HDepot and seal all the joints where the pipes attach and meet the elbows and boots. Every bit of less leakage helps.



Pretty sure that is now required here in the states under the new standards. There is even talk of some kind of limited pressure test in the near future.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> If you want to get fancy get some silver foil duct tape from HDepot and seal all the joints where the pipes attach and meet the elbows and boots. Every bit of less leakage helps.


I'm seriously considering spray foaming all my ducts to deliver the coolest possible air I can get to the upstairs bedrooms.

Everyone says it's not necessary, but I have my doubts in this case to what everyone says.


----------



## BigJim

Looks to me that the ducts would sweat if uninsulated, I am with you, I would for sure insulate the ducts.


----------



## yuri

Spray foam. I would not use it.

I would check with the Building Code. It would need to be temperature/fire rated. I have seen foil backed insulation on the plenum and main horizontal ducts and in your high humidity area is a good idea. The risers to upstairs I would not worry about and would just tape the joints. We have mastic but you can only get it at Pro HVAC suppliers.


----------



## yuri

123pugsy said:


> Thanks dawg.
> 
> Again, another item easy to find in the States, but not here.


They have 10X the population/demand for mastic than we do. HDepot is very picky about what they stock and if they only sell a few tins of it won't give up valuable shelf and floor space. Besides we are the Kings of Duct Tape.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Thanks dawg.
> 
> Again, another item easy to find in the States, but not here.


You can't get mastic there? Really?


----------



## yuri

We can but it is sold by HVAC suppliers who sell sheet metal fittings etc. In the US it is very popular because you don't want to lose your AC in attics. AC is not a huge deal where we are. Heat is. However if the heat leaks out it stays in the house so it is not a loss. We use silver duct tape as it is quick. Mastic is slow, sloppy and stinky and UGLY. The old duro dyne red we use for commercial smelled like contact cement and needed to be ventilated quick. The new stuff is less toxic or flammable but the history of mastic is not one that caught on in resi where we are.

In Wpg. a person can walk into Wholesale Htg Supplies and buy it as a DIYer so it is not verbotten like buying a gas valve.

With Commerial ducts we mastic but that is a different league.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> You can't get mastic there? Really?


I got a can on order from our plumbing/HVAC supplier. I had to order some XFR drain pipe to run thru an air return duct and asked him if he had the duct goo which he does. 

The average Joe up here has a hard time finding these things.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Spray foam. I would not use it.
> 
> I would check with the Building Code. It would need to be temperature/fire rated. I have seen foil backed insulation on the plenum and main horizontal ducts and in your high humidity area is a good idea. The risers to upstairs I would not worry about and would just tape the joints. We have mastic but you can only get it at Pro HVAC suppliers.


Good call.

OBC: (4) Except as provided in Sentence (5), foamed plastic
insulation shall not be used as part of an air duct or for
insulating an air duct.


----------



## yuri

Yeah, you would be pretty pizzzed at yourself trying to scrape it off.:vs_mad:

I would mastic the takeoffs on the plenum and horizontal duct and insulate both with foil backed insualtion. Problem is you have to co-ordinate that with the HVAC dudes to get it over the top. They also have to leave 1" clearance from the top of the plenum and heating ( not return ) duct and the joists. Check with the Building and Gas inspector about it. They do it in the US and I have seen it done but Ontario has some funny anal codes and regulations and enforcement.


----------



## user_12345a

^That code has gotta date back to natural draft or oil furnaces with the high limit set at 200F+.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> ^That code has gotta date back to natural draft or oil furnaces with the high limit set at 200F+.


Nope. OBC 2012. Current code that's in force.


----------



## user_12345a

...every obc is based on the last code with some tweaks or updates, it's evolution. there are probably some irrelevant rules in the obc which date back to the 70s when the obc was formed, which could date back even further from the first municipal codes.


----------



## yuri

The 1" clearance will be here FOREVER. If you get a furnace running wild from a stuck open gas valve you don't want the bonnet touching wood. You also need some room for thermal expansion.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks.

Not sure if I asked this, but can fiberglass be stuffed around the duct to fill the joist cavity?


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> ...every obc is based on the last code with some tweaks or updates, it's evolution. there are probably some irrelevant rules in the obc which date back to the 70s when the obc was formed, which could date back even further from the first municipal codes.


Thanks.

That's probably true about a lot of the codes, but until they are removed one has no choice but to abide by every single code to the letter. That is if you want to pass and receive occupancy.


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Not sure if I asked this, but can fiberglass be stuffed around the duct to fill the joist cavity?



Fiberglass will not burn when held in an open flame (personal test). It will melt. Heat wise you have no problem. Code wise, I don't know.

All mine are.


----------



## yuri

Once you do anything to arouse suspicion the inspectors usually turn you down. You may add it later and I would wait. If the pipe sweats and the insulation gets wet it is shot so I would not do it.


----------



## user_12345a

...bonnet? what's that? i only know of that from "bonnet capacity" on really old stuff.


----------



## Colbyt

user_12345a said:


> ...bonnet? what's that? i only know of that from "bonnet capacity" on really old stuff.



It's those damned Brits and their spawn's language. I am fairly sure he is referring to the draft hood. Maybe they still have that style of furnace. I have not seen a new one like that for years.


----------



## yuri

Bonnet/plenum potato/potatoe. Inducer/ventor/combustion air inducer. There are plenty of commonly used words in the HVAC biz that mean that same thing.

I worked with a British guy that was a oil burner tech in England for Imperial Oil and lots of other guys from other places. Bonnet is commonly used in Winnipeg. Plus you actually have to be in the biz to know the terms.

Draft hood is actually called a draft diverter in the biz. It diverts air up and into the venting to the chimney. That also creates a draft thru the heat exchanger to suck in combustion air and allow venting to occur. Heat rises so a draft occurs. That is why older furnaces and water heaters are called natural draft appliances.:vs_bulb::wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> .............. That is why older furnaces and water heaters are called natural draft appliances.:vs_bulb::wink2:


I have a natural draft appliance but I can't talk about it here, ha......


----------



## yuri

Yeah that Methane gas can be dangerous. Had lots of fresh tomatoes from Mom's garden plus cheese and was creating some drafts myself for awhile.:vs_boom:


----------



## user_12345a

insulate your new house well and all you'll need is some of that natural methane and some matches. forget all that complex hvac mumbo jumbo we were advising you on.


----------



## ghary

I hope you don't mind me asking, how much does it cost to build a house this size?


----------



## 123pugsy

ghary said:


> I hope you don't mind me asking, how much does it cost to build a house this size?


If you were to pay a contractor to do everything, it would be probably between 4 and 5 hundred.

I'm hoping to do it for 3 and change. That will be with me doing a ton of work myself.


----------



## user_12345a

Did you consider moving, out of curiosity?


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> Did you consider moving, out of curiosity?


Yes.

The problem was at the time, and still is, that the wife insists on living in the same school zone and there are only a few properties that have the space around the house to park my toys. Of course, the price is high on those and then they would need a new house built. A garage with enough height for my hoist was also a requirement that couldn't be met. Life is not good without a hot rod shop.


----------



## sbtools

*projects*

I am trying to add an update to my house project and noticed that you have several pages. Could you please assist me in how to add a new page to the thread. I have tried to find the help information without any luck.
Thank you for reading
Steve, sbtools.


----------



## yuri

After 15 posts the site adds a new page.


----------



## ddawg16

user_12345a said:


> Did you consider moving, out of curiosity?


Really? Kind of defeats the DIY thing does it not?

It's a lot like the jeep thing. Real jeeps are built. Anything else is a 'mall crawler'.


----------



## Windows on Wash

ddawg16 said:


> It's a lot like the jeep thing. Real jeeps are built. Anything else is a 'mall crawler'.


"Mall Crawler".... :vs_OMG:

My buddy is going to be getting a Jeep soon and I most certainly will be busting out that label in his honor and reference.


----------



## 123pugsy

I've been slacking off on the posting. Two weeks with no pics. :surprise:

Ducts are all roughed in.


----------



## 123pugsy

I installed all the bath fans and hooked up to the HVAC Dudes roughed in ducts.

I also added the last chunk of false wall in the main floor washroom so the 6" duct could be buried inside.


----------



## 123pugsy

Of course the HVAC engineer penciled in an air return exactly where I told him the main stack would be running. I picked up some XFR PVC pipe. This is compatible with the System15 pipe and is rated to run thru air return ducts.


----------



## 123pugsy

Remember my cabinet face frames and doors posted earlier?

They don't look so great after the roof leaks where they were being stored.:surprise:


----------



## Colbyt

I figured you were in a race with old man winter to get the envelope sealed and some warm.


----------



## 123pugsy

More HVAC pics showing the HRV hanging from the ceiling. I've hit my head on it three times already. lain:

Vent pipes and gas supply lines are ready. Gas meter/service should be installed any time.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> I figured you were in a race with old man winter to get the envelope sealed and some warm.


Oh, I am....working on the drains/vents and then I will install boxes/wires for smokes and lighting upstairs. I will then get the drains/framing/HVAC/partial wiring rough in inspected so I can install the vapor barrier to seal off the attic. If I can get this done, I will be able to retain some heat.

Doors are coming this week. Bricklayer in 2 weeks or so....maybe...


----------



## Windows on Wash

Great duct work pics. 

I know you love working tin so that is right up your alley.


----------



## yuri

There should be filters inside the HRV and you need to check the intake regularly in the Winter so no snow gets sucked into the hood. Also leaves in the fall and dirt in the Summer. If not it will unbalance it and depressurize your house. Looks like a nice neat job.:vs_cool:


----------



## 123pugsy

Jumping around here...just going in order of when I took my pics.

Had to build a small chunk of wall to run a vent pipe thru.


----------



## 123pugsy

More drain/vent pipes.....


----------



## 123pugsy

I forgot all about the kitchen drain so I ended up cutting into the main floor washroom pipe....


----------



## 123pugsy

I was going to connect all my vents to the two 3" pipes going thru the roof when I remembered the washing machine/laundry tub vent. Wow, I can't remember jack these days.....

I decided to put up the studs that the pipes will pass thru while I was at it.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Great duct work pics.
> 
> I know you love working tin so that is right up your alley.


Actually, not my handy work. I'm a custom sheet metal worker, not a duct worker. Big difference. These were installed by the HVAC company. Not DIY but just showing the pics as they are part of the build.

I know nothing about HVAC and I intend to keep it this way, ha...


----------



## user_12345a

The flex connecting the hrv to the ductwork isn't great.

The sharp 90s from the hrv kill airflow; you would get better results with hard pipe elbows.

Make sure they set it up right; needs to be balanced. Ideally stale air wouldn't be pulled from the return; if it was pulled from a hallway or kitchen, you would be able to ventilate without having to run the furnace fan.


----------



## ddawg16

What is the status of your brick work? Hate to see you fighting the weather.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> What is the status of your brick work? Hate to see you fighting the weather.


Doors are supposed to be ready tomorrow.

Bricks about 2 weeks away. I need to get the attic sealed off and vapor barriered. This is vital as all the soffits and ridge vents will be open no matter what. Without this crucial step, I could turn on heat and it would go right out the attic and thru the ridge vents and gone.

Bricks will help a lot as I can get the house wrap up first and the bricks and wrap will stop the wind from coming thru gaps in the OSB.

And if not, I guess I will need to dress warmly as I work.


----------



## 123pugsy

Yahoo!.....ready to test all my ABS drain/vent pipes tomorrow.

A few pics below.


----------



## ddawg16

I remember my leak test.

I remember thinking to myself, what a PIA to have to go through all this.....

And then, when I was up on the roof filling the pipes with water while my wife walked around looking for leaks, I thought to myself, "I sure hope nothing leaks"......and that is when the 'PIA' sentiment went away.

There is a lot of comfort knowing your plumbing passes the leak test.

Downside....it's done before drywall......

Drywall.....this is when you're glad for nail stop plates.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I remember my leak test.
> 
> I remember thinking to myself, what a PIA to have to go through all this.....
> 
> And then, when I was up on the roof filling the pipes with water while my wife walked around looking for leaks, I thought to myself, "I sure hope nothing leaks"......and that is when the 'PIA' sentiment went away.
> 
> There is a lot of comfort knowing your plumbing passes the leak test.
> 
> Downside....it's done before drywall......
> 
> Drywall.....this is when you're glad for nail stop plates.


On the roof? :surprise: I hope to never set my foot on my roof. Scary slope.
That's why I have a clean out in each stack. I can fill them from inside the house.
I won't forget the nail stop plates.

Did you have any leaks that needed repair dawg?


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> On the roof? :surprise: I hope to never set my foot on my roof. Scary slope.
> That's why I have a clean out in each stack. I can fill them from inside the house.
> I won't forget the nail stop plates.
> 
> Did you have any leaks that needed repair dawg?


Nope....no leaks. And when you consider the pressure on bottom floor plumbing from a 2-story house, there is actually a lot of comfort doing that test.....


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Nope....no leaks. And when you consider the pressure on bottom floor plumbing from a 2-story house, there is actually a lot of comfort doing that test.....


I got all the drains sealed up, test caps on and no leaks. Oh yeah! :wink2:
The pressure is quite high as the plastic test caps are all bulging.

Tomorrow, I will start installing boxes for the lights and run the wires to the switches. Need to try and get the building inspector by Friday while the weather is warm. 65* F today. Sweet. Warm for the next few days coming up so I can leave the water in the system.

I want him to inspect the drains/vents, bath fan duct work, and the framing above the second floor ceiling.


----------



## TheEplumber

I never go on the roof to water test. I screw a 2x3/4 bushing into a clean out at the washer box.
Then a 3/4 nipple and boiler drain into the bushing.
I use a washer hose to jump between the boiler drain and washer box- turn it on and wait for the water to boil out the stack.

Or cap the vents below the roof and add 5lbs of air if you don't want water.
Couple the pipes through the roof after the test


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> I never go on the roof to water test. I screw a 2x3/4 bushing into a clean out at the washer box.
> Then a 3/4 nipple and boiler drain into the bushing.
> I use a washer hose to jump between the boiler drain and washer box- turn it on and wait for the water to boil out the stack.
> 
> Or cap the vents below the roof and add 5lbs of air if you don't want water.
> Couple the pipes through the roof after the test


That seems a lot easier.
I installed a 3" clean out in the stacks and filled from inside the attic.
I like your method better.


----------



## 123pugsy

Doors finally arrived and just like every other part of the project, I had to turn it on overdrive as the installers were only available the next day or wait another week or so.

So I had to install the BlueSkin right quick.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more picks......


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## 123pugsy

While the doors were being dealt with, the new 1" water line was being trenched and then unrolled out to the new curb stop which the city generously donated to the cause. Unfortunately, the supply is only 3/4" from the street to the curb box but my pressure should be greatly improved over the old 5/8" line.

The first pic is where the roll of copper has been sitting for the last two months or so.


----------



## 123pugsy

I picked up 17 pot lights that are air tite which require no enclosure but with the inspector here, he would probably call it and claim this is Canada, not Washington State. 

So, hi ho, hi ho, off to Depot i go for Halo vapor boxes.
This was Sunday morning at 6AM. I shot myself in the foot as I had booked partial electrical inspection for Monday morning. Rushing again......


----------



## 123pugsy

Electrical failed on two items.
The double gang box needed reinforcing on both sides. Also, the wires crossing the joists free span required running boards placed beside then so no one would step on them. Both points made sense to me and are all fixed now.

I also had the light fixture/fan boxes supported and wired as well. Smokes/CO are wired as well.

I needed more lights upstairs so it was good to get some running temporarily.


----------



## 123pugsy

Tuesday was building inspection for plumbing, HVAC rough in and framing.
Framing failed for strong backing which was fixed the same afternoon.

Drains/vents scored 100%, so I was pleased with that.

HVAC has a couple of ducts to swap around and air return ducts to be inspected when I build some walls in the basement.

Bath fan vents are good to go though, so a green light to put up vapor barrier. Drywall needs to wait for house wrap and I must get the barrier inspected prior to drywall.

Gas pipes will be finished tomorrow. I hope the pipe installer will turn on the gas to check for leaks. I will hook up the furnace temporarily for some heat.


----------



## 123pugsy

Framers did some substandard work on the drywall nailers for the ceiling on the second floor.

Some nailers were added directly on to the bottom cord of the truss. This will float up and down cracking the drywall for sure. I will use clips at several places where this occurs.

Some places had no nailer whatsoever and I had to add them. Other places had the truss nailed right into the top of interior walls without truss clips. 

Been fixing this up for the last three days.

Last pic shows truss already lifted off an interior wall.


----------



## ddawg16

I feel your pain.....now you understand why I did my own framing.....(not without it's own mistakes)

But I've had more than one person comment on how 'tight' it was. I think I must have 100 lbs of nails alone in that addition...I think I went through 3 cases of nail gun nails alone....not to mention all the other 5 lb boxes of misc sizes.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I feel your pain.....now you understand why I did my own framing.....(not without it's own mistakes)
> 
> But I've had more than one person comment on how 'tight' it was. I think I must have 100 lbs of nails alone in that addition...I think I went through 3 cases of nail gun nails alone....not to mention all the other 5 lb boxes of misc sizes.


I wish I had the time to do the framing but no way. Probably twelve hours fiddling around and it's done. Not too bad.

I'm thinking of bending up some channels at work to slide the rock into at the parts where it can't be nailed.
I can't even locate any drywall clips around here.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> I wish I had the time to do the framing but no way. Probably twelve hours fiddling around and it's done. Not too bad.
> 
> I'm thinking of bending up some channels at work to slide the rock into at the parts where it can't be nailed.
> I can't even locate any drywall clips around here.


Drywall clips? Like the Simpson ones?

I have a box that is about 3/4 full.....hundreds.... Pay for shipping and you can have it bro.

They look like this


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Drywall clips? Like the Simpson ones?
> 
> I have a box that is about 3/4 full.....hundreds.... Pay for shipping and you can have it bro.
> 
> They look like this


Thanks ddawg.

I've seen them on line and don't "get" them. Are those two tiny triangles of metal supposed to hold the rock in place?

EDIT: I guess they are basically to keep the rock from lifting?


----------



## ddawg16

They act like a back stop for drywall when there is nothing behind it. 

I've got a few corners where there was no easy way to get blocking in there as a nailing surface....used those. Once you mud the corner.....it's pretty solid.


----------



## yuri

Are you going to have a whole house security alarm? If so it is best to prewire it now.

If you plan to use the furnace for temp heat you need to have enough ductwork/resistance for the fan to work against. Especially if it is a ECM motor. If not the fan can overspeed or cavitate or not get up to speed properly and then overheat. Never a good idea unless you change the filter every day or keep a very close eye on it as it can plug with dust quickly.

If you do run it close/throttle some vents so it has backpressure and throttle the return air a bit and then watch the LED after it runs 5 mins to make sure it is not cutting out on the limit control.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> They act like a back stop for drywall when there is nothing behind it.
> 
> I've got a few corners where there was no easy way to get blocking in there as a nailing surface....used those. Once you mud the corner.....it's pretty solid.


Thanks.

I think I'll just bend up some U clips and screw them to the top plate where there are no nailers available. I'll need to put a gob of silicone on the back where the screw breaks thru the vapour barrier.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Are you going to have a whole house security alarm? If so it is best to prewire it now.
> 
> If you plan to use the furnace for temp heat you need to have enough ductwork/resistance for the fan to work against. Especially if it is a ECM motor. If not the fan can overspeed or cavitate or not get up to speed properly and then overheat. Never a good idea unless you change the filter every day or keep a very close eye on it as it can plug with dust quickly.
> 
> If you do run it close/throttle some vents so it has backpressure and throttle the return air a bit and then watch the LED after it runs 5 mins to make sure it is not cutting out on the limit control.


Thanks.

All ducts are roughed in now and hooked up.


----------



## user_12345a

The best option is to not run the furnace during construction, especially the drywalling phase.

If you must, make sure it's piped to pull combustion air from outside and use a high merv 4-5" media filter, check every couple of days. The media filters can be sourced for much less than what you would buy in a big box store. 

The ducts will need to be thoroughly cleaned before occupancy if the system is used or even the vents left open. Some bad trades people may even dump their garbage down the vents, or heck, even sweep construction debree down rather than using a dust pan.

---------------
I don't like the potlights installed in an exposed ceiling - compromises the integrity of the insulation/vapour barrier, but a matter of personal choice. 

Hope you're using LEDs at least.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> The best option is to not run the furnace during construction, especially the drywalling phase.
> 
> If you must, make sure it's piped to pull combustion air from outside and use a high merv 4-5" media filter, check every couple of days. The media filters can be sourced for much less than what you would buy in a big box store.
> 
> The ducts will need to be thoroughly cleaned before occupancy if the system is used or even the vents left open. Some bad trades people may even dump their garbage down the vents, or heck, even sweep construction debree down rather than using a dust pan.
> 
> ---------------
> I don't like the potlights installed in an exposed ceiling - compromises the integrity of the insulation/vapour barrier, but a matter of personal choice.
> 
> Hope you're using LEDs at least.


Thanks.

HVAC Dude unlocked the meter and sparked up the furnace on Thursday......Ahhhhh......sweet.

It must be run during construction. No choice. Filter changes will be often as noted and I have already screwed down perf steel covers over the registers.

Pot lights are encased in a full vapour boot. 

LED's all the way, as long as I have a few shekkles left to buy them.


----------



## Colbyt

The HVAC guys are going to roast me for saying this.

During construction, double filtration (in the unit and ) using pleated filters at the return air intake are better for the long term life of the unit than not doing so. When sanding DW you may have to change more than once a day.

I also using a box fan to which I have mounted a U channel to accept a 20x20 pleated filter and keep it on and near and dust making activities. If I am lucky a filter lasts one day.


----------



## yuri

Colbyt said:


> The HVAC guys are going to roast me for saying this.
> 
> During construction, double filtration (in the unit and ) using pleated filters at the return air intake are better for the long term life of the unit than not doing so. When sanding DW you may have to change more than once a day.
> 
> I also using a box fan to which I have mounted a U channel to accept a 20x20 pleated filter and keep it on and near and dust making activities. If I am lucky a filter lasts one day.


Good idea. If you can exhaust the drywall dust from the source then it won't get back to the furnace. That stuff is like flour and never goes away. Change the furnace filter lots and it should be OK. Try run the furnace as little as possible or not when sanding.


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## BigJim

It is a little early to think about this but a little early is better than never. When your inside trim, flooring etc are delivered, it will be to your benefit to store them inside where it is warm so the materials can acclimate. You may already know this, but just in case you don't.

Back when I was asked to do trim work, and especially stairs, some of the people would not turn the heat on in the winter to save money. I warned them what would happen if they didn't let the material acclimate. 

Sure enough, almost every time they would call me back and tell me all the joints were popping open and the house had been painted and living in for 3 months or more. They would ask me what I was going to do, I told them nothing, I told you what was going to happen. All they could do is call the painter back in to fix it all and repaint.

A new house will do a lot of popping and cracking sounds as the framing materials warm and dry anyway. Just a heads up.


----------



## ddawg16

BigJim speakith da truth.

As careful as I was with my framing and drywalling, I'm still finding a small crack here and there. The worst one, on the vaulted ceiling in the master bedroom. Of course, it's right next to the roof (max temp differences) and large surface area.

It's a real small crack....you only really notice it while laying in bed.....and when the light is just at the right angle.

If that is the worse problem I have......I'll be happy


----------



## yuri

White toothpaste. Apparently it works for small cracks.


----------



## user_12345a

> LED's all the way, as long as I have a few shekkles left to buy them.


incandescent is the most expensive lamp you can use; u pay for the led whether u use it or not- either for the actual product or the wasted energy. i know, capital costs r important too - just saying...


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> incandescent is the most expensive lamp you can use; u pay for the led whether u use it or not- either for the actual product or the wasted energy. i know, capital costs r important too - just saying...


I pulled all the incandescents from my job site lights and changed for curly bulbs. Running about 30 lights in the house now about 3 amps. Sweet.


----------



## 123pugsy

Been busy with a lot of stuff and too tired lately to post progress.

I got the attic hatch installed and then added an 18" high, 3/4" plywood insulation dam on top of it. Didn't get any pics of the dam.


----------



## 123pugsy

I emailed the insulation contractor to see if he could send over a couple of guys to install some vapour barrier on the second floor ceiling and I get a reply that goes "I'll get back to you...."

Ya, right. He better hope his price is the lowest in town because I will now be getting quotes from a bunch of insulation contractors.

I had to rush to get the VB up myself as the HVAC Dude was coming to turn on the gas and it was getting real cold in the house.
What a pain when you don't know how to go about it. The first room, I ended up missing a big triangular piece where it hit one wall. 

Then I figured out to always used the edge of the roll and not a cut end for reference, DOH!


----------



## yuri

Where I am they used caulk/silicone glue at the edges and staples. Makes it more airtight, Same type as they use for flooring I believe.


----------



## ddawg16

Pug.....I feel your pain on the 'too tired to post'.

This i going to be a good weekend.....just me at the boys for 2 days......oldest is wanting to earn back his XBox privilege......he is going to have to work for it.


----------



## yuri

Good to see you are a responsible parent and not letting them have everything and whatever they want. My Sis has a 7 and 10 yr old I visited last weekend. Not the richest people in the world but they do OK. Boys kinda have rooms full of toys like ET and a new X Box in the basement rec room. Sis and BIL limit their Internet time and watch what they do. Both came upstairs politely and asked if they could use the X Box. Seems like they limit the time they play it also. I was impressed as most parents don't get involved. No violent video games for these guys. They love Leggo and building and Minecraft which is a builder game. Parents need to take a VERY active role in watching what their kids get into and especially once they get on Facebook etc.:smile:


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## user_12345a

i believe it's acoustic sealant that they use on vapour barriers.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> i believe it's acoustic sealant that they use on vapour barriers.


Thanks.

There's no way in heck that I will use more than tape. It's a pain in the arsz already w/o sealant. 

Another busy day putting up house wrap and Blue Skin ahead of the bricklayers. :surprise: ...........yep, they are here and things are getting inneresting........more on that after all my other updates are done......


----------



## 123pugsy

I ran a ground wire from the gas pipes to the copper water main from the city supply. I also ran a dedicated extension cord for the furnace. I installed an ON/OFF switch right on the furnace as well. HVAC Dude was satisfied with this and turned on the gas and sparked up the furnace. Oh yeah!

First pic shows my heat source I have been using. This didn't do to well for heat. I only went thru 3 tank fulls though. 

Second pic shows the toastiness inside the house. You can see that I had to turn the furnace down some to 50*.


----------



## 123pugsy

I made up a section of water pipe from the leftover 1" soft copper pipe sized to the new water meter so the city can just bolt the meter in place later. 

I added a valve and a hose bib just in case it gets too cold to leave the water on in the house next door. I could just feed a garden hose out of the basement and then pull it back in at night.

I also added a temporary PEX takeoff. With this I was....sniff......able to be reacquainted with an old friend...sniff.....I think Al Bundy would be pleased....:smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

Bricklayers coming soon so I had to rush to get all my sleeves in the walls and a bunch of wires run for 8 receptacles and 8 light fixtures. 

Finished off the first row of house wrap as well.


----------



## user_12345a

Tip: Don't set your heat below 16c/60f, the cold return air can cause condensation to form in the primary heat exchanger.

You've got some propane heaters there, maybe they can be used instead of the furnace during the drywall sanding phase. 

The acoustic sealant is for where the barrier ends i believe, tuck tape is for the joints - plastic to wood, mostly on exterior walls.

Good that you're doing brick and not some vinyl siding crap. that stuff sucks, looks awful.


----------



## 123pugsy

The bricks arrived last week. The weather really wasn't looking good to start laying bricks.

A week and a half later, (Wednesday of this week), when the scaffolding was being set up, things were looking a lot better. The last few days have been 5 - 8*C around here. :wink2:

Rumor has it even Santa came by to help set up.


----------



## 123pugsy

About a million bricks to be cut at a 5* angle for the soldier courses.

The first thing that the bicklayers did was to lay the 4" sill at the north end of the house that will receive a stone look foundation treatment.


----------



## 123pugsy

Brickwork......................


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> Tip: Don't set your heat below 16c/60f, the cold return air can cause condensation to form in the primary heat exchanger.
> 
> You've got some propane heaters there, maybe they can be used instead of the furnace during the drywall sanding phase.
> 
> The acoustic sealant is for where the barrier ends i believe, tuck tape is for the joints - plastic to wood, mostly on exterior walls.
> 
> Good that you're doing brick and not some vinyl siding crap. that stuff sucks, looks awful.


Thanks.

I guess the heat exchanger will have to shake off the condensation and get over it. With no insulation, the heat will be on quite low for quite a while.


----------



## user_12345a

If you don't mind me asking, how much does it cost to brick a house?

I'm guessing it would be more than stucco or any kind of siding.


----------



## yuri

It does not just shake off and you will rust and corrode it as it is not designed to be wet. NOT a good idea and it can void the warranty if it fails. They can tell by the rust and metallurgy if it was run too cold. They sealed the edges of my vapor barrior with that sealant. I think it is code where I am.


----------



## ddawg16

"Old Friend".....yea, I know that one....it's those 'small pleasures' that mean a lot.

I remember when we go the second toilet in operation....oh, happy days.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> If you don't mind me asking, how much does it cost to brick a house?
> 
> I'm guessing it would be more than stucco or any kind of siding.


Not sure about stucco, but I know it's at least double the cost of the the real wood siding that would be req'd in the heritage zone.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> It does not just shake off and you will rust and corrode it as it is not designed to be wet. NOT a good idea and it can void the warranty if it fails. They can tell by the rust and metallurgy if it was run too cold. They sealed the edges of my vapor barrior with that sealant. I think it is code where I am.


Thanks.

"Shake it off" was meant to be humorous as in the furnace will just have to get over it. Warranty is over I imagine. It's 3 -4 years years old now.

I'll turn up the thermostat some more.


----------



## yuri

The heat exchanger has a 20 yr warranty or longer depending on brand and model.


----------



## jomama45

The water table sills look great, nice bulky size. But, why not on the entire house? Cost?


----------



## 123pugsy

jomama45 said:


> The water table sills look great, nice bulky size. But, why not on the entire house? Cost?


Thanks.

The north end of the building is the only part with a large piece of foundation showing. There is the front porch and back deck that covers the foundation pretty much and by the time it gets to the south end, the grade is only showing 6" of foundation, so no stone required at that end.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> The heat exchanger has a 20 yr warranty or longer depending on brand and model.


Thanks.

20 years sounds good to me but won't the part be obsolete by then, even 10-15 years from now?

Seems to be the way these days. lain:


----------



## yuri

Yeah but sometimes they have a manufacturers defect or split between 10-15 yrs. Carrier had a bad batch so you don't want to take chances and rust it up and void the warranty. Labor is around $600 to replace it so it may be worthwhile if it goes before 15 yrs. After that I would not.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Not sure about stucco, but I know it's at least double the cost of the the real wood siding that would be req'd in the heritage zone.


I would speculate my 'addition' and all the extra stucco I did would be about 2/3's of pugs project in wall area.

I paid $6000 for my stucco job. This included all materials. I'm willing to bet pugsy paid that much just for the brick.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I would speculate my 'addition' and all the extra stucco I did would be about 2/3's of pugs project in wall area.
> 
> I paid $6000 for my stucco job. This included all materials. I'm willing to bet pugsy paid that much just for the brick.


12 G's for brick, about 3 g's for mortar, ties, nails, flashings, sills, etc...

Labour not included.


----------



## user_12345a

Heat exchanger replacement is worth it even at 15 years; the exchanger pretty much is the unit and then it could be run for another 10-15, with some parts. 

Don't abuse it during construction; low temp aside, i'm hoping you have a really good filter setup. Maybe one basic pleat with a super high merv filter downstream - you change the basic one very frequently.


----------



## ddawg16

user_12345a said:


> Heat exchanger replacement is worth it even at 15 years; the exchanger pretty much is the unit and then it could be run for another 10-15, with some parts.
> 
> Don't abuse it during construction; low temp aside, i'm hoping you have a really good filter setup. Maybe one basic pleat with a super high merv filter downstream - you change the basic one very frequently.


Ouch.......but, you will only have to do it once.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> Heat exchanger replacement is worth it even at 15 years; the exchanger pretty much is the unit and then it could be run for another 10-15, with some parts.
> 
> Don't abuse it during construction; low temp aside, i'm hoping you have a really good filter setup. Maybe one basic pleat with a super high merv filter downstream - you change the basic one very frequently.


I'll have to get filters in front of all the return air grates.

No worries about furnace and drywall as I won't be ready for drywall until March/April I'm sure.


----------



## user_12345a

Return air ducts leak like a sieve, especially the panned ones. return filters may help but can't replace good filtration at the furnace.


----------



## 123pugsy

The back wall and the south wall got finished today. They got up to the windowsills on the remaining front and north walls before packing it in for the day. Another 4000 bricks coming tomorrow.


----------



## 123pugsy

Bricks finished!

They did a great job and I feel it's got the look I was after.
I removed the screens from all the windows as the muntin bars were difficult to see.
This should be fine as we hardly ever open the windows.


----------



## jomama45

Looks great, like it's been there 100+ years.............:thumbsup:


----------



## 123pugsy

jomama45 said:


> Looks great, like it's been there 100+ years.............:thumbsup:


THANK-YOU!

That's the look I was aiming at.


----------



## ddawg16

Looks fantastic. It cost you...but some of your best spent money.

Question....on the roof section (porch?) that is not shingled yet....is there flashing between the brick and sheathing on the bare roof?


----------



## BigJim

Great looking job, looking more like a home every day.


----------



## yuri

Looks very good. We have lots of "character" brick homes in the older part of Winnipeg. Very rich people who built Winnipeg and live along the river in River Heights. I like the maintenance free part but would not want some 75-100 yr old house with old plumbing and wiring and poorly insulated walls. You got the best of both now.

As far as the "character" requirements for the area I went thru that in Calgary. In one new area they wanted a full size wood deck and porch area at the front of the house. $10,000 upgrade and then you have wood to look after. I built in a different area. Calgary is strange as vinyl siding rules and stucco is rare. Winnipeg is mostly stucco and brick with very little vinyl siding.


----------



## Colbyt

It really does look good and with a timeless style.

Pop a top and have a cool cool one. It looks like you beat old man winter this time.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Looks fantastic. It cost you...but some of your best spent money.
> 
> Question....on the roof section (porch?) that is not shingled yet....is there flashing between the brick and sheathing on the bare roof?


Thanks Everyone.

At present, there is is flashing from the sheathing thru the bricks, ready for the roofers to tuck theirs underneath. This is on the long part.

On the small hip ends, they will need to goop the flashing to the brick only.
There are pieces of step flashing thru the bricks there also but the roofers will not be tucking underneath those.

It's how it's done here.

I'll have to get a close up pic later.


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Everyone.
> 
> At present, there is is flashing from the sheathing thru the bricks, ready for the roofers to tuck theirs underneath. This is on the long part.
> 
> On the small hip ends, they will need to goop the flashing to the brick only.
> There are pieces of step flashing thru the bricks there also but the roofers will not be tucking underneath those.
> 
> It's how it's done here.
> 
> I'll have to get a close up pic later.


I was wondering about your flashing on the porch, you could cut a slot in the brick at an upward angle and bend the flashing into the slot.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> I was wondering about your flashing on the porch, you could cut a slot in the brick at an upward angle and bend the flashing into the slot.


Thanks.

Won't be necessary although I like when it's stepped along the bricks like that.
No one does it here. Even if you pay them.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> It really does look good and with a timeless style.
> 
> Pop a top and have a cool cool one. It looks like you beat old man winter this time.


Thanks Colby.

Yep, what luck the last week has been. Temps up to 50* even and no rain or snow.

Bricks are up, furnace is working, upstairs ceiling is vapour barrier-ed. Life is good.


----------



## user_12345a

> Calgary is strange as vinyl siding rules and stucco is rare. Winnipeg is mostly stucco and brick with very little vinyl siding.


Vinyl is crap.


----------



## 123pugsy

I put up some roof supports so I could pull out the screw jacks and return them to the rent-all.

I finally remembered to go across the street for some pics.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good pugsy.


----------



## BigJim

Man I am sitting here freezing and you show a picture of snow on the roof...brrrrr. lol

Your home is looking good, I am glad you beat the cold by getting your house in the dry and closed up. Getting closer every day.


----------



## cocobolo

BigJim said:


> I was wondering about your flashing on the porch, you could cut a slot in the brick at an upward angle and bend the flashing into the slot.


About time I took a run through your house to see what kind of trouble you're causing all the neighbours!!!

Regarding Jim's comment...I have previously seen the mortar line cut out with a thin masonry blade and flashing put in the cut. Only about an inch or so deep, but with goop it seemed to be quite permanent. I would think that would be slightly better than just gooping the flashing to the face of the brick.

Now, let me mention what is done to vinyl when it is wrapped around a post on the deck surface. This might work with brick as well if you wish not to cut into the mortar.

The vinyl is run up the post about 3 inches from the deck surface. It is glued in place, all except for the last 1/2" at the top of the vinyl. That small part is pulled away from the post at a 45º angle, or as close as you can get it to that, then that is filled with goop which in turn is sloped upwards at the same 45º angle. It seems to work well. This I got from my Duradek training days about 500 years ago.

Your place is looking super good and very classy. Terrific job so far. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Gentlemen.

I'm not concerned about 2 short pieces of flashing at the hips.
It's done all the time and if a trickle of water runs down the brick, no worries.
The main flashing, the long one will tuck under the thru brick flashing that is in place already.

Did I mention that it's not a closed ceiling inside the porch? It's open rafters so nothing to worry about.


----------



## 123pugsy

HVAC shmucks, (not Dudes), never showed up to fix the take offs that were aiming the wrong direction so I had to take matters into my own hands. I dropped a chunk o trunk and proceeded to do the work. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

I framed up a couple of pieces of wall at the hydro zone so I could figure out the sizes of nipples I needed to order.
I also mocked up the meter base to get nipple dimensions to the LB.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next thing to do was to start framing the basement walls while I waited for my nipples to arrive.
I installed the garden hose spigot while the access was easy to get at. Look closely and you'll see it's on upside down with the drain cap to the pressure side. 

After that, it was time to continue framing the exterior basement walls.


----------



## 123pugsy

When I got to the wall with the HRV, I had to take it down to frame up the wall behind it and found a flex duct with a tear in it. Nice. Little bits of fiberglass would be fed into the air return duct as long as breeze was passing thru it.
More hack work.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next hack work to deal with on the same wall was the intake and the two exhaust vent pipes for the furnace and hot water heater. There was no space to frame the wall between the kick ups and the foundation wall. They were all different spacing and the horizontal runs were way too low.

One of the pipes I took down fell apart. :vs_no_no_no: No primer. You think that had something to do with it?


----------



## cocobolo

Looks like a nice spot for a workshop!

So you have some of the finer tradespeople back there as well. These guys should be qualified tradesmen, not a bunch of adolescent teenagers. I'd be having a little chat with them about their shoddy work. They won't learn otherwise.


----------



## BigJim

cocobolo said:


> Looks like a nice spot for a workshop!
> 
> So you have some of the finer tradespeople back there as well. These guys should be qualified tradesmen, not a bunch of adolescent teenagers. I'd be having a little chat with them about their shoddy work. They won't learn otherwise.


I would be talking to their billfold, they understand that better than anything. If it ain't right that part should be deducted plus your time to fix it right. Incompetence is just one of my pet peeves.


----------



## yuri

Sounds like a bad episode of the 3 Stooges. Seems like they do plumbing as well as HVAC.:wink2:


----------



## user_12345a

Make sure that come spring, you get the company back to check/adjust the a/c's refrigerant charge, drop the cfm to 1000 for the 2.5 ton. Mentioned it 'cause i see the rough in. 

That can't be done accurately until it's warm, typically late may in the GTA. The a/c condenser has something like enough r410a for 15' of lines, any longer or shorter and refrigerant must be added/removed.


There's zero excuse what so ever for exhaust pipe without primer. Could be an honest mistake, but whoever inspected/turned the gas on should have inspected the exhaust i think.


----------



## ddawg16

I feel your pain.....I so feel your pain..........


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Looks like a nice spot for a workshop!
> 
> So you have some of the finer tradespeople back there as well. These guys should be qualified tradesmen, not a bunch of adolescent teenagers. I'd be having a little chat with them about their shoddy work. They won't learn otherwise.


Thanks.

Workshop is out in my 600 square foot detached garage.
It's got heating, AC, a hoist and a hot rod along with a few decent pieces of equipment to help me pass the time.

The big space downstairs is for the rec room of course.

As for having a "chat" with the clowns these days, it's become quite apparent thru this build that they don't give a $hit and they will not try to improve.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> I would be talking to their billfold, they understand that better than anything. If it ain't right that part should be deducted plus your time to fix it right. Incompetence is just one of my pet peeves.


I'll wait until the AC is running before I mention anything. I've only got 1k hold back at this time. Let them finish first and then tell them they're not getting the whole amount.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> Make sure that come spring, you get the company back to check/adjust the a/c's refrigerant charge, drop the cfm to 1000 for the 2.5 ton. Mentioned it 'cause i see the rough in.
> 
> That can't be done accurately until it's warm, typically late may in the GTA. The a/c condenser has something like enough r410a for 15' of lines, any longer or shorter and refrigerant must be added/removed.
> 
> 
> There's zero excuse what so ever for exhaust pipe without primer. Could be an honest mistake, but whoever inspected/turned the gas on should have inspected the exhaust i think.


15' is about spot on for the line set.


----------



## 123pugsy

So I started with the appropriate materials.
I fashioned up a drop hanger from a chunk of 2x6 scrap.
The pipes are tucked up a lot higher now and just enough space for a wall to fit in between.


----------



## 123pugsy

My nipples arrived so I proceeded with the service entrance installation.
Nice way to uglify a guys brand new house.


----------



## 123pugsy

Framing continued after the mechanical projects.


----------



## 123pugsy

More interior walls shots.
The last pic is a 2x6 that fits nice and tight in the beam when hammered in.
A bit of PL and she's locked in tight for nailing on some wires.


----------



## 123pugsy

Basement windows might help in the framing process, so I made a mock up and checked it in all the openings outside.
It fits all the holes with some wiggle room so I will get those ordered Monday.

I proceeded to attach some wires to the running board so that I could start piping the supply run to the water heater. 

Type L copper. 3/4" to the water heater and then 1/2" out of the W/H. All the 1/2" cold water supplies to various places will be fed off the 3/4" line.

I got the 1st floor W/R roughed in along with the basement W/R.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I'll wait until the AC is running before I mention anything. I've only got 1k hold back at this time. Let them finish first and then tell them they're not getting the whole amount.


I like that idea. Just let them know it cost you more than your holdback to fix their mess. 

Keep a big hammer handy in case they get upset about that! :devil3:


----------



## BigJim

Seeing the wood you have in your steel I beam reminded me of a job I did in Memphis. I had to box in a steel beam so I put construction adhesive on the wood, then shot the wood to the steel with a Ramset, set the whole thing on fire. LOL


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the copper run except for one garden hose bib that I remembered about as soon as I was done, DOH!

First pic below looks like the crossover pipe on my hot rod exhaust.
That's what I get for mixing up the hot and cold.

A few other random pics attached also.


----------



## yuri

Hose bibs need a drain in the inside shut off valve or I prefer a freeze proof one that has the seat inside the house. HDepot has them. Then you never have to shut it off or drain it. Is about a foot to 18" long and has a rod inside that turns the seat inside the house.


----------



## 123pugsy

I took a break in the middle of the plumbing to do the hard part of the service entrance wiring. That was to feed the wires from the meter base box to the panel. Two LB's made for some tough twisting, but they're in and all is good. 

Waiting for some warm weather to run the rest up the mast and thru the cap.

I also made up a new drain valve set up for the hot water heater. The ball valve has a pipe plug so no one can scald themselves accidentally. 

I just couldn't put the valve I got under warranty back in there.
http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/hot-water-drain-valve-broken-cannot-empty-284754/


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good. Nice clean work...but I expect that from you.


----------



## cocobolo

Windows on Wash said:


> Looking good. Nice clean work...but I expect that from you.


Of course. He's a hot rodder! :smile:


----------



## ddawg16

Personally, I would have don a sweep instead of the LB


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Personally, I would have don a sweep instead of the LB


Thanks.

I did a sweep. It's between two LB's.


----------



## 123pugsy

yuri said:


> Hose bibs need a drain in the inside shut off valve or I prefer a freeze proof one that has the seat inside the house. HDepot has them. Then you never have to shut it off or drain it. Is about a foot to 18" long and has a rod inside that turns the seat inside the house.



Thanks.

I picked up a similar model.
Freeze proof and anti siphon are code now. Well, anti siphon for sure, but freeze proof is good.


----------



## Windows on Wash

cocobolo said:


> Of course. He's a hot rodder! :smile:


You know it. We used to put cotton balls in our socket sets and a straight edge across all the bolt heads to get them lined up. 

I'm taking my first welding class tonight. Super stoked about it.


----------



## cocobolo

Windows on Wash said:


> You know it. We used to put cotton balls in our socket sets and a straight edge across all the bolt heads to get them lined up.
> 
> I'm taking my first welding class tonight. Super stoked about it.


Your first class? Well, you'll enjoy that.

Took my first class a mere 55 years ago. It's one of the most useful things you will ever learn. Good luck!


----------



## Windows on Wash

cocobolo said:


> Your first class? Well, you'll enjoy that.
> 
> Took my first class a mere 55 years ago. It's one of the most useful things you will ever learn. Good luck!


Thanks boss. I hope I am still are productive and doing the kind of work you are.

You are a machine sir and an inspiration.


----------



## cocobolo

Windows on Wash said:


> Thanks boss. I hope I am still are productive and doing the kind of work you are.
> 
> You are a machine sir and an inspiration.


We better stop hijacking Pugsy's thread, or he's going to shoot us! :surprise:

BTW...you should see his welding. Unbelievably fantastic!


----------



## Windows on Wash

cocobolo said:


> We better stop hijacking Pugsy's thread, or he's going to shoot us! :surprise:
> 
> BTW...you should see his welding. Unbelievably fantastic!


I have seen his work. Crazy nice. I can only hope to get in the same zip code as that type of work.


----------



## yuri

Pugsy is a young man. Wish I could buy 20 yrs of life from him and get back to that productivity.:wink2:


----------



## ddawg16

Windows on Wash said:


> You know it. We used to put cotton balls in our socket sets and a straight edge across all the bolt heads to get them lined up.
> 
> I'm taking my first welding class tonight. Super stoked about it.


I learned my welding at the U of Hard Knocks....

Did my own welding on that main support beam....









It helps that I have access to all the Mig, Tig and stick welders I could need.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looks pretty darn good.


----------



## 123pugsy

Big day today!
All the supply pipes are done. Well except for one connection to the main line after the air test.

I have air leaking past the Moen tub/shower rough ins no matter which position they're in. Made for water, not air?

I will put T tape on all my temporary "spouts" tomorrow and refill with compressed air again. I only had them inserted for the drywall rough in but need to do the air test for the inspector soon.


----------



## yuri

I used to work for a plumbing and heating company with quite a few old experienced plumbers. We sold used hot water radiators salvaged from houses as there is a demand as those old styles are hard to find. Customer wanted a 24 hr air test on one so we did it. Lost a couple psi's and no way to get it to stop. Old school plumber said once they are full of water and pressurised they hold and we filled it and voila it holds. Not sure why but sometimes they will hold water but not air. With boilers you do a hydrostatic test not air test. Ideally you probably should fill your pipes with water and then add pressure. Air is for car tires and pneumatic controls not plumbing.


----------



## ddawg16

Temperature.....the pipes cool off at night causing a pressure drop

The pressure change with air due to temp changes is much more than water. And in some cases, there might be a valve that will hold water but not air. 

The only advantage to using air vs water is you don't have a mess to clean up if you find a leak.


----------



## TheEplumber

I'm not aware of Moen passing air- I test with air with the valve open and the outlets capped. I've seen too many leaks at brass to copper connections.

I also usually air test the waste lines since its either below freezing or water is not to the structure yet.
A word of caution though. Plastic manufactures advise against air tests.


----------



## ddawg16

TheEplumber said:


> I'm not aware of Moen passing air- I test with air with the valve open and the outlets capped. I've seen too many leaks at brass to copper connections.
> 
> I also usually air test the waste lines since its either below freezing or water is not to the structure yet.
> A word of caution though. Plastic manufactures advise against air tests.


When I was testing mine....I had the cartridge out and the ends capped....but I found out real quick that without the plug on the hot side....the downstairs existing shower could not get hot. Cold water was flowing thru the upstairs roughin and back down to the existing shower....luke warm at best....not fun in the winter time.


----------



## ddawg16

BTW Pugs....nice work on the copper.....I used the same box for my washer....


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> I'm not aware of Moen passing air- I test with air with the valve open and the outlets capped. I've seen too many leaks at brass to copper connections.
> 
> I also usually air test the waste lines since its either below freezing or water is not to the structure yet.
> A word of caution though. Plastic manufactures advise against air tests.


Thanks.

I'm done the waste lines already and passed. I filled them with water.

I will go tape up all my stubs and open the valves for the test so the air pressure is not abusing the rubber seals.

Will report back on the results.


----------



## Colbyt

It almost looks like he know how to run and solder copper.


----------



## ddawg16

BTW.....don't forget nail block for those copper lines. I got a bit carried away with them. Last thing I wanted to do was rip out drywall to fix a water line or electrical wire.


----------



## 123pugsy

TheEplumber said:


> I'm not aware of Moen passing air- I test with air with the valve open and the outlets capped. I've seen too many leaks at brass to copper connections.
> .


They were passing air because I had the valve stem in the open position. Their (Moen's) PDF drawings showed them the way I set them. I thought their drawing would show them in the closed position.
But, your idea of having them open is the best to check all of the pipes and fittings. 

I sleep at the wheel sometimes, but i usually see the light eventually.....


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> BTW.....don't forget nail block for those copper lines. I got a bit carried away with them. Last thing I wanted to do was rip out drywall to fix a water line or electrical wire.


Thanks.

I got a whack of stainless plates made up and ready to go.

Stainless for more strength (harder), thus letting me make them thinner.
I hope I won't have to argue with the inspector over this. Code says 16 gauge. I made mine out of 20 gauge.


----------



## 123pugsy

I charged it up to 107 PSI and it didn't drop in an hour. We'll see how it holds overnight.


----------



## SimonJ

Amazing work!


----------



## ddawg16

Did the pressure drop?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Did the pressure drop?


Yes. 10 PSI in 24 hours. I refilled it and closed the laundry valve to take my filling hose setup out of the loop.
My fill hose setup lost 10PSI over the first night I tested it on it's own.


----------



## 123pugsy

SimonJ said:


> Amazing work!


Thanks Simon.

I hope you stick around and enjoy the site.
Lots of great project threads here.


----------



## 123pugsy

I took a walk about yesterday afternoon after I shut off all the fixture valves to see if I was losing pressure from them.

Snapped a few pics from all the second floor windows. The first is the most important of course. The HOT ROD SHOP.....:wink2:

The last pic shows the lower part of our L shaped driveway. It's about an 8% slope.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more starting from the front bedroom window. You can see how close to the street we are. If they widen the road again, it will be on our front lawn. Doesn't do much for resale value, that's for sure.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more pics of copper....


----------



## Colbyt

Be careful with those copper pix. You will attract the copper thieves. Wouldn't have lasted this long in these parts; it would already be recycled.


----------



## 123pugsy

Had a bit of rain last weekend and I heard some trickling water running.

The system is working well but eaves troughs would be good.


----------



## 123pugsy

I took a little core sample from a spare brick. I had to weld an extension on to my tile drill bit to get the length needed. Just a small bit of 1/2" tube that was laying around the shop.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next order of business was to finish framing the mud room closet. Of course this is the same location as the the chain saw massacre.

I thought I was going to have zero boxing on the first and second floors of the house but there was an elbow at the top that I needed to box in. Not bad though as it's inside a 9' high closet so it will never been seen.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more pics. There is a small space to the right to kick off shoes and boots to keep them out of the way. I will install a bunch of shelves in there also.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Be careful with those copper pix. You will attract the copper thieves. Wouldn't have lasted this long in these parts; it would already be recycled.


The scum are everywhere now.....


----------



## yuri

Another vote for PEX, they won't steal it.

Those anti-siphon hose bibs are a pain. Inside there is a float with a seat/vacuum breaker and eventually it wears out or leaks. If you can get a repair kit for it now with the float/seat I would. 10 yrs from now it will be obsolete and unavailable. I have that problem with the neighbor's one and it leaks. Probably going to silicone it around the opening.


----------



## Windows on Wash

They won't steal the copper if you throw some copper.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> They won't steal the copper if you throw some copper.


Just got to keep the doors locked and tell everyone I used PEZ....ha.....


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> The scum are everywhere now.....



Yep. Every time I see where one of them got killed trying to steal the copper from a utility transformer, I just say have a nice trip, at least you were pre-seared before hell.


----------



## ddawg16

If it was me, I'd already be living in the house.....


----------



## bigyellowones

123pugsy said:


> And the finished result.


this looks really well made - well done


----------



## 123pugsy

bigyellowones said:


> this looks really well made - well done


Thank you.


----------



## elsanto

Agreed, great project, thanks for sharing!


----------



## 123pugsy

The next order of business was to frame up the service chase.


----------



## 123pugsy

We had some decent weather up to 3* this week so I thought I would run the wires up the mast. The first thing to do was to drill out the three wire holes on the top cap. That proceeded to shatter the plastic so I had to run out and get another one.

I ended up carefully grinding out the holes.


----------



## 123pugsy

I started to run central vac pipes but I had no where to put the main line down the middle of the basement so I started boxing in the ducts and then I could run the pipe inside that. That led to another problem. I had to insulate the water lines before completing the boxing.

I called for final plumbing rough in and final framing inspection and got that passed. Building inspector gave the green light to move on to insulation. Of course, I will need to wire up the whole house first and build some stairs.

I hooked up the water to the whole house and found out where the air was leaking from. The packing nut on a garden hose ball valve shut off was loose and dripping a bit of water. Tightened it up and no leaks anywhere. Oh yeah....


----------



## 123pugsy

Wow, rough day today. I got all the basement pipes insulated. Foam for cold and fiberglass for the hots.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the other side of the boxing framing in and a couple of cross joists up so I could rest the vacuum piping on them.


----------



## 123pugsy

I finished the boxing along with the vac run to the first and second floors. I left a stub up for the toe kick vac pan. I will cut a hole in the floor later and finish the run when the flooring is down.

The open webs made for easy pipe routing again. Sweet.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Love Central Vacs. Looking really clean Pugsy.


----------



## ultimatehometip

Fantastic house rebuild..
Love it so much!


----------



## ddawg16

I asked my wife if she wanted a central vac system.....she said now.....

Then we got Noir....111 lb black lab.....leaves 11 lbs of hair around the house daily.....

I think she might be rethinking that idea....


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I asked my wife if she wanted a central vac system.....she said now.....
> 
> Then we got Noir....111 lb black lab.....leaves 11 lbs of hair around the house daily.....
> 
> I think she might be rethinking that idea....



Ya, you can't go wrong with central vac. So simple to install also. 
I think the toe kick pan will be the best part of it. Starting to wonder if I should have roughed in more of them.


----------



## user_12345a

With central vac I think it's fairly cheap to rough it in during construction, decide on it later.

Its one of those nice to have things 90%+ of people live without; common in the suburbs but go into a well developed city and few if any homes have it. Same with lots of things; the choice is between walkable community + crappy expensive house/building and crappy suburban sprawl + cheaper, better housing.

Now its so damn expensive even in the suburban areas. Our housing bubble hasn't popped yet.


----------



## 123pugsy

I've spent the last week drawing up the stairs after getting a quote for almost 10 G's. It would have been more than that after tax was added.

I got the treads ordered and bought some LVL's for the stringers.
About 5 weeks to get the treads.

I went back to work tonight and got the vac squared away.
The segmented tester pipes have been replaced with one piece which will go out to the shed for now along with the vac for future installation.


----------



## 123pugsy

Been doing some wiring for the last couple days. I got the 5 main (big) runs pretty much done to the panel. Still need to shove the garage feeder outside and thru the existing conduit into the garage. Waiting for some warmer weather.

In case you're wondering, the last pic is the 2" I had to trim off the sub panel feeder. I never have this kind of luck. Exactly the right length. The wire for this came from the existing garage feeder. It was improperly wired with a romex inside a conduit.


----------



## 123pugsy

Hydro inspection for the service entry was yesterday. I had a nice heart attack when inspector asks me how many amps 2/0 copper is good for. I tell him 195 amps and the chart has a footnote for 200 amps when used on a service entrance. He tells me 3/0 and I nearly doubled over. I told him to check his chart and he came back OK at 2/0. 
Phew, I would have had to change all the piping and LB's to 2-1/2" and then try to finagle 3/0 wires thru.

It seems, starting this May, it will be changing to 3/0 and since I pulled my permit before that date, I'm covered.

He told me to drill a couple of holes in the outside LB. No worries as I wanted to so anyways because even with rubber gasketed covers, you just know it will leak.


----------



## cocobolo

As far as I know we've always used 3/0 for 200 amp service out in B.C. Maybe that's why they break the 2/0 off at 195, just to cover their backsides.


----------



## BigJim

That is interesting how things vary from one area to another, down this way 2/0 is good for a 200 amp service. 2/0 is stiff enough to work with for me. LOL


----------



## ddawg16

BigJim said:


> That is interesting how things vary from one area to another, down this way 2/0 is good for a 200 amp service. 2/0 is stiff enough to work with for me. LOL


Jim.....because it's so bloody cold up there, the wire can't over heat.....:smile:


----------



## ddawg16

Side note.....the power company just finished installing new utility poles behind our houses......yes....new poles all the way down. pretty impressive task

I have 200A service....but the wire from the pole to my peckerhead is #4....but I have 2/0 for my service entrance


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> As far as I know we've always used 3/0 for 200 amp service out in B.C. Maybe that's why they break the 2/0 off at 195, just to cover their backsides.


I'm sure it is all about protecting their collective butts.

You'd be hard pressed to get the average home cranked up to drawing 195 amps continuously for some time.


----------



## user_12345a

200 amp service is great for 100% electric heat houses and grow ops. Otherwise you won't even get close to 100.


----------



## ddawg16

user_12345a said:


> 200 amp service is great for 100% electric heat houses and grow ops. Otherwise you won't even get close to 100.


It's like a fast car.....there may not be enough freeway to use all of the car, but it's nice knowing you can if you want.

But I'm sure on those cold days when the wife is baking in the electric oven....washer and dryer is going....crock pot is on...coffee pot doing it's thing....half the TV's on...and I'm in the garage....240Vac compressor running...all the lights on...and I'm running my table saw...along with the central vac.....it's nice to know I don't have to worry about a breaker tripping....


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> It's like a fast car.....there may not be enough freeway to use all of the car, but it's nice knowing you can if you want.
> 
> But I'm sure on those cold days when the wife is baking in the electric oven....washer and dryer is going....crock pot is on...coffee pot doing it's thing....half the TV's on...and I'm in the garage....240Vac compressor running...all the lights on...and I'm running my table saw...along with the central vac.....it's nice to know I don't have to worry about a breaker tripping....


I've done the above and melted the wires from the pole to the house.
It seems I had a friend "electrician" upgrade to 100 amp service. Well, he remembered to check the wire size coming down the mast, but forgot to look at the wire size overhead, DOH!

I can say with so many things running, we were just south of 100 amps as the main didn't pop yet.

One line welded to neutral. My computer didn't make it as 240 volts hit it.

I guess my 6000 watts parts washer with the 3 HP pump motor didn't help the cause, ha....


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> 200 amp service is great for 100% electric heat houses and grow ops. Otherwise you won't even get close to 100.


Side business with this new found juice??? hmmm......

See my post above.....I did mange to get close to the 100.
In your defense, I guess the average home doesn't have a 35 amp parts washer running.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Jim.....because it's so bloody cold up there, the wire can't over heat.....:smile:


LOL........probably true....


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Side business with this new found juice??? hmmm......
> 
> See my post above.....I did mange to get close to the 100.
> In your defense, I guess the average home doesn't have a 35 amp parts washer running.


Not to mention the occasional use of a 250 amp TIG welder! :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Not to mention the occasional use of a 250 amp TIG welder! :devil3:


Ha, only 150 amp.

I think it draws about 45 amps on full hot.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Ha, only 150 amp.
> 
> I think it draws about 45 amps on full hot.


Kinda like that 'passing gear'....you don't need it often, but when you do....


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Ha, only 150 amp.
> 
> I think it draws about 45 amps on full hot.


But you still need a 60 amp breaker for that.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> But you still need a 60 amp breaker for that.


It's on a 50 amp circuit.
The on/off switch is actually a breaker and trips off before the breaker on the panel. This is only welding hot. For the car sheet metal work, it never trips.

And the whole garage is served by 60 amps only.
Good thing I work alone and don't wash transmissions while welding.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> It's on a 50 amp circuit.
> The on/off switch is actually a breaker and trips off before the breaker on the panel. This is only welding hot. For the car sheet metal work, it never trips.
> 
> And the whole garage is served by 60 amps only.
> Good thing I work alone and don't wash transmissions while welding.


And the electric heat is on along with the coffee maker.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> And the electric heat is on along with the coffee maker.


Nah. :smile:

I have natural gas Reznor separated combustion furnace..
Coffee is inside the house.


----------



## user_12345a

123pugsy said:


> Side business with this new found juice??? hmmm......
> 
> See my post above.....I did mange to get close to the 100.
> In your defense, I guess the average home doesn't have a 35 amp parts washer running.


Use lots of juice running a "side business" on a gas heated house and the cops could come knocking on your door: http://www.thespec.com/news-story/4...p-cops-on-grow-ops-judge-tells-hamilton-pair/


----------



## 123pugsy

Back on the grid.......:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Been picking away at stuff trying to get closer to the insulation stage.

Installed 6 ga ground wires to the water supply piping.
I jumped it across the meter for good measure.
All smokes are now interconnected.

Got the 6ga weather proof cable for the garage stuffed thru the existing conduit. I had run romex thru there previously which I ended up using on the sub panel so that was not wasted.

I think I should cut the VB out from around the smoke junction box upstairs...it may be a good thing. I didn't see it for the longest time and my inspector missed it altogether.


----------



## 123pugsy

I was trying to figure out how to run the wires to the kitchen island without them being a trip hazard or them getting damaged by the drywallers.
Since I needed to cut a piece of sub floor for the final toe kick vac outlet anyways, I cut a nice big chunk out which makes for a handy wire storage spot as well.

Side note: the wiggly saw makes a great construction adhesive removal tool.


----------



## 123pugsy

All the pipes in the house are finished insulating except the two stub outs for the kitchen sink.


----------



## 123pugsy

I asked framer Nick how he would finish the 45 degree corners in the house and he tells me that he would rip some lumber down to shape with his trusty Skilsaw. I couldn't see anything good happening there so told him to leave the corners alone.

I had a couple of test pieces of thin aluminum bent up and tacked them in place. The drywall screws grabbed well enough to sink the heads.


----------



## 123pugsy

And just for the heck of it, a coupla pics looking out the windows.....


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good Pugsy. 

Great progress and the quality looks to be just as I would expect (flawless).


----------



## ddawg16

I had that 45 deg issue in a couple of places in my house.

I took a 4x4 and ripped 22.5 deg off one side. Do the same to a second one....nail them together and you end up with a really strong corner with plenty of nailing surface...especially on the back side...you end up with enough for drywall


----------



## cocobolo

Took me a second to see what you were up to with those 45º corners. 

They were actually 135º as that was an outside corner. On the inside, the two adjoining studs should come right together, so you wouldn't have any trouble there at all.

I always use the table saw to make those 135º cuts. Very easy, quick and completely reliable. Then you don't need to mix expensive aluminum and wood.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Ha, only 150 amp.
> 
> I think it draws about 45 amps on full hot.


A dollar short and a day late here. I was referring to my 250 TIG welder. It does need a 60 amp breaker.

Carry on. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Took me a second to see what you were up to with those 45º corners.
> 
> They were actually 135º as that was an outside corner. On the inside, the two adjoining studs should come right together, so you wouldn't have any trouble there at all.
> 
> I always use the table saw to make those 135º cuts. Very easy, quick and completely reliable. Then you don't need to mix expensive aluminum and wood.


Us sheet metal workers always call a 135 angle a 45. We stick it in the brake and throw a 45* bend on it and we have a 135 degree corner.

Thin aluminum (.032") sheets are not too pricey. About $42.00 per sheet and can get 8 pieces of corners.
Along with time savings and a quality corner, it's a win/win situation.

We won't count labor though, as I just throw a cut list on the shop floor and like magic, they're in my truck. :wink2:


----------



## ddawg16

But when you are cutting it on a table saw....it's 22.5 deg


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> But when you are cutting it on a table saw....it's 22.5 deg


That's right. When two pieces join to create the 45...or is it 135? :surprise:

Sometimes I cut at 67-1/2* to do it also......:vs_worry:


----------



## ddawg16

trying to be difficult?


----------



## cocobolo

ddawg16 said:


> But when you are cutting it on a table saw....it's 22.5 deg


Not necessarily so. I make a 45º cut, which leaves me with a piece of 135º lumber.

If you want to make two 22 1/2º cuts, of course you can. It just takes more time. If you cut the 2 x 4 (or 2 x 6) in the middle, then you have two pieces ready to go with a single cut.

What you are talking about is to cut two pieces at 22 1/2º and then butting them together. More material and more time.

More than one way to skin a cat.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> trying to be difficult?


Just a little fun with angles, ha.....


----------



## ddawg16

cocobolo said:


> Not necessarily so. I make a 45º cut, which leaves me with a piece of 135º lumber.
> 
> If you want to make two 22 1/2º cuts, of course you can. It just takes more time. If you cut the 2 x 4 (or 2 x 6) in the middle, then you have two pieces ready to go with a single cut.
> 
> What you are talking about is to cut two pieces at 22 1/2º and then butting them together. More material and more time.
> 
> More than one way to skin a cat.


Depends on what is on the backside. Look at the two pics. In the first one, I ripped a 4x4 at 45° (or 135°). The corner had to be tight. I used the other half over against the wall.

In the other pic, I need to have enough surface inside for drywall, etc. So, it was 2 4x4's ripped at 22.5°


----------



## 123pugsy

Wahoo!!! Wiring finished.

I started the Cat6 this afternoon.
Three bedrooms done. Just need two pulls into the master bedroom and I can move down to the first floor.


----------



## 123pugsy

Oh yeah!

All wiring roughed in including Cat6, RG6 coax and even the door bell low voltage wires. :wink2:

Head scratching now to figure our what's next.
I guess the stairs are important. I can then mount 2 more boxes for the light switch loops on the under stair wall. (I guess I lied above about being finished the wiring)


----------



## ddawg16

Believe me, I know that feeling. 

Now, go grab a beer (or two) and pretend live in your house. 

Try every light switch....stand back and look at where your outlets are. 

We put outlets In Strange places.....and glad we did. A lot of them up high. 

My only regret was not putting one at the back of the stairs. I ended up installing a occupancy sensor on the stairs and I had to do some surgery to get power to it. 

If you are not sure, add it anyway....

Btw....in the bedrooms I put power, cat and coax up high for tv's. So glad I did.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the aluminum angle corner pieces installed to screw the drywall onto.

A couple of nailing plates beforehand are always good.

The last pic shows the test piece of drywall screwed in place.


----------



## 123pugsy

Sub panel wired up on the office wall.
It sure saved a lot aggravation having to run from the basement.


----------



## 123pugsy

I installed two Cat6 and one coax at every possible TV location.
No idea why two Cat6, but I read it on the internet, so it must be truly req'd.:wink2:

I installed three locations for phone hard wires.

I have Cat6 wires pulled to three locations to simplify things, but now I need three switches. One on every floor. Not sure how that's gonna work, but i sure hope it's OK.


----------



## 123pugsy

I had a millwork shop buddy do me a favor and run my LVL stringers on their CNC router.

That process left some nice round inside corners so I cut them square with the wiggly saw.

I used my Kreg jig for some pocket screw holes for the treads.


----------



## 123pugsy

I cut some 2x3's to assemble the stairs. The bottom ones will be for screwing the drywall and the top ones for a bit more tread support. I can get a few more screws into the treads along with another place to apply some PL Premium.

I moved them downstairs to check the size. I think it may have been better to check the stringers before assembly like in the last pics. They were OK though, so that's good.

No worries about the notched header. It's just temporary and will be coming out soon.


----------



## Yodaman

Stringers look great Pugs. Did you consider just knocking off the back corner of the stair tread in lieu of squaring the corners on the stringer? 

What are you using for treads that will allow that wide of spacing between stringers?


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> I installed two Cat6 and one coax at every possible TV location.
> No idea why two Cat6, but I read it on the internet, so it must be truly req'd.:wink2:
> 
> I installed three locations for phone hard wires.
> 
> I have Cat6 wires pulled to three locations to simplify things, but now I need three switches. One on every floor. Not sure how that's gonna work, but i sure hope it's OK.



If you have the wire you may want to pull a second coax to some of those locations. Reason: a dual LNB sat requires two runs from the dish to the box and what if you decide you want antenna and cable or dish. Wire is cheap and the job easy when the walls are open.

Entire project looking great.


----------



## 123pugsy

Yodaman said:


> Stringers look great Pugs. Did you consider just knocking off the back corner of the stair tread in lieu of squaring the corners on the stringer?
> 
> What are you using for treads that will allow that wide of spacing between stringers?


I considered knocking off the back corners of the treads but I hate having to do those kinds of things when I'm humming along. Each stringer square up was only five minutes.
Now, I can just set them and forget them.....hmmm...sounds familiar... :vs_worry:

Treads are 1-1/16" solid walnut.
Stringer spacing is fine as it's the risers that keep the treads from sagging. I will glue, screw and dowel the risers to the back of the treads.

I was surprised when my friend told me two were OK for his 42" stair case. Mine are approximately 36"
His has passed inspection already.


----------



## ddawg16

Two Cat's.....it lets you use an Ethernet to HDMI converter. Comes in handy for TV's that are not Ethernet ready.

Two coax's? Maybe....but would only work if the TV had two coax inputs.

I'm using an amp for my OTA. If I decide to go back to cable, then everything will be cable. Only problem, they have pretty much done away with non protected content so you have to have a cable box for even the basic channels...it's output is going to be HDMI so this is where the two Ethernets come in handy.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> If you have the wire you may want to pull a second coax to some of those locations. Reason: a dual LNB sat requires two runs from the dish to the box and what if you decide you want antenna and cable or dish. Wire is cheap and the job easy when the walls are open.
> 
> Entire project looking great.


Thanks.

Holy shoot!
More wires to pull?? Whhhaaaaaa................:vs_smirk: :vs_smirk:


----------



## Yodaman

123pugsy said:


> Now, I can just set them and forget them.....hmmm...sounds familiar... :vs_worry:
> 
> Treads are 1-1/16" solid walnut.
> Stringer spacing is fine as it's the risers that keep the treads from sagging. I will glue, screw and dowel the risers to the back of the treads.
> 
> I was surprised when my friend told me two were OK for his 42" stair case. Mine are approximately 36"
> His has passed inspection already.



Sounds nice. I built 2 sets of stairs a few years ago and considered black walnut but went with red oak due to availability. I am sure you checked local codes on width. My requirement was 39" min.

And I like things you can set and forget, may have even mentioned that once or twice. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Yodaman said:


> Sounds nice. I built 2 sets of stairs a few years ago and considered black walnut but went with red oak due to availability. I am sure you checked local codes on width. My requirement was 39" min.
> 
> And I like things you can set and forget, may have even mentioned that once or twice. :wink2:


Ours is 3' minimum.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the last three sets of stairs assembled.
Two sets are on the main floor and one set is upstairs in the bedroom for now.
Nothing more to do until the treads arrive. Risers would be nice as well. :wink2:

I need to make up some hangers at work similar to the Simpson type beam hangers. Can't trust the end grain of the LVL's for nailing/screwing.


----------



## 123pugsy

Since I needed to keep busy after the stairs were together, I proceeded to wrap the basement post with 2x6's.

I then spray foamed all the windows prior to installing the jamb extensions as I didn't trust the foam to travel all the way thru such small gaps. I had to heat the sprayer nozzle and squish it flat to fit the small gaps.


----------



## 123pugsy

I took all my jamb extensions to work Saturday morning to rip down on the table saw. Got them all screwed together and made a jig to keep them square and to size on the long sides.

16 of the 17 were installed today. I got frustrated on the last one because the window is bent so I left it and started spray foaming as many as I could before I ran out of foam.


----------



## 123pugsy

The wife told me the bricks on the house were a different color than when they were first put up and of course I believed she was some kind of nut, so I went out and snapped a pic.

Sure as tootin, I been told. Some of the bricks must have been soaking wet for that dark color, two tone finish and now they have dried. Sweet.


----------



## ddawg16

Interesting about the jamb extensions.....I did mine after I finished my drywall and painting.

But, then again, about 25% of my extensions are stained wood.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Interesting about the jamb extensions.....I did mine after I finished my drywall and painting.
> 
> But, then again, about 25% of my extensions are stained wood.


I guess I could have done them afterwards. Well, it's done now so one more thing off the list.


----------



## ddawg16

Your's look to all be the same depth. I don't think I have a single window in the house where the jamb depth is the same as another.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Your's look to all be the same depth. I don't think I have a single window in the house where the jamb depth is the same as another.


I gave them about 1/16" past a piece of 1/2" drywall scrap that I had.

Basement not done yet. They'll be a lot different. Probably around 13". :surprise:


----------



## ddawg16

All of your's are painted?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> All of your's are painted?


Yep.

Only wood will be stair treads, railings and hardwood floors.


----------



## langit

subb..


----------



## 123pugsy

The two windows made as doubles were bent in the middle so the jamb extensions ended up with big gaps at each end. Had to caulk them before I could spray foam to avoid a huge mess.

It was then time to finally install the basement windows.
Had to make up some deep extensions for these. The extensions are the only thing holding the windows in place. Well, them, the spray foam and of course the caulking as well on the outside.


----------



## 123pugsy

More pics.

It's too bad that I made a major mistake in the design. The light from the windows is really nice in the basement. I had planned to install stainless steel grates on the deck in front of the windows. The screw up is the fact that there needs to be a beam running across that will block the windows for 9-1/4"....DOH!


----------



## 123pugsy

The big egress window was next and my was it fun.
It had been resting in the opening all winter and all it needed was a little push at the top to get it out of the way. Then, I just had to heft it up and out of the well so I could attach the jamb extension.

After the extension was on, I couldn't drop it in from the top so I had to wrestle from inside the well. What a pain...lain:


----------



## 123pugsy

I finally got it in and tacked into place and spray foamed.


----------



## 123pugsy

Insulation Dude came by to take a peak and give me an estimate.
Of course he tells me he can't do this and can't do that. I filled the void behind the panel with Roxul because they cant spray thru a 2" gap. :vs_worry: I had to unscrew the panel off the wall and slide in a vapour barrier.

He then proceeds to tell me how he can't spray into the rim boards of two basement walls. A little slicing and dicing is all that's required he tells me. Nice.


----------



## 123pugsy

I had to core a 3" hole for the sump pump discharge pipe thru the foundation wall before the spray foam is installed. Lucky, I didn't hit any rebar.
I then installed a piece of 2" PVC as a sleeve for the 1-1/2" ABS that will go thru later.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good man. Really nice trim work on the windows.


----------



## ddawg16

What is that white stuff on the ground?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> What is that white stuff on the ground?


Ha, that's the magic powder that helps me work oh so comfortably outside. 
Really had to move before the caulk froze up. :wink2:


----------



## viroid

I'm in the final stretch of my home Reno; instead of pulling coax/cat6/etc, I ran 1 in flex tube to low voltage boxes anywhere I thought I might want something in the future. The tubing is inexpensive and and will allow me to pull anything I want through it later.

...ct

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk


----------



## viroid




----------



## 123pugsy

I had to tape all the ducts for the building inspector so I could spray foam them. I guess he's concerned it would expand right through the cracks and clog the duct.
No problem, didn't take long except when I reached around the back of a duct to press the tape on and my finger went thru the tape and the hole in the duct. :surprise:
Ya, that's the subfloor. 

So I tapped it all smooth with a dolly and hammer, cut the hole in the floor bigger and got it inserted all the way in and screwed.

The hacks are out there people....beware.....


----------



## 123pugsy

The same hacks referred to in the post above did teach me some home improvement tips. When you cut a hole and something is in the way, just get the chainsaw out......:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

My drywall Dude told me I should have cross blocking between all my studs since they were 9' to avoid screw pop. I've heard several opinions whether needed or not, but not once did I hear it was a bad thing so why not? The walls were stiff like crazy after installing them. I'm glad I did. 

Squash blocks were also added beside every floor joist in the basement.


----------



## 123pugsy

Back to the stairs.
In a previous episode, I had the stringers tied together with 2x3's. I had one under the tread and one for the drywall to screw to flush with the bottoms. 

Since I finally got all the inside the wall stuff done, I now need to rush thru the stairs so the drywaller can finish underneath them plus I have walls to build under and beside some of the flights.

I had a pal cut the stringers along with the skirt boards on the CNC router so they would line up automatically.


----------



## 123pugsy

I unpacked the treads yesterday to start assembling them with the risers. The plan was to lay down some PL and install the tread/riser as a unit. Well, wouldn't you know the geniuses that supplied the treads thought a 6* back cut on the rear would be just fine. I have no access from inside as the 2x3's have been strategically placed so that if the treads were lousy, I wouldn't be able to work the connection after they were installed on my stringer assembly.....arrrgghhhhh....

I cut little bits of 6* wedges on the saw and glued them to the backs of the treads. It kind of works as long as I install them to the stringers before the PL dries.
I used 3 dowels at the connection along with screws. There a is also a full width 2x3 about 3" from the rear of the tread supporting it as well screwed and glued.

5/16" x 3-1/8" construction screws were used for the stringer to hanger board connection. Slathered some PL between first of course.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few pics of the first flight in place. I mocked up the skirt board for the last pics.


----------



## ddawg16

That looks fantastic.

What are you doing for hand rails?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> That looks fantastic.
> 
> What are you doing for hand rails?


Thanks ddawg.

The handrail is a good question.
Walnut may be a problem cost wise. Also, the company that does it locally has a design shape I don't like. Maybe I need "simulated" walnut.
Any ideas?


----------



## ddawg16

Wrought Iron?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Wrought Iron?


Nah, haven't seen much iron that looks like walnut....:smile:
May need to make up some custom handrails. The newels and balusters will be colonial style in white or cream color.


----------



## Windows on Wash

+1

I am continually impressed Pugsy. Your work is top flight sir.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> +1
> 
> I am continually impressed Pugsy. Your work is top flight sir.


Thanks WoW.


----------



## 123pugsy

The insulation Dudes finished up yesterday. Inspection this morning some time.

Rock Dudes are coming in Friday. :wink2:

Been going crazy filling up the walls with anything that needs to be in them.
I'll have time for pics in a few days while I'm waiting for the drywall Dudes to finish.


----------



## 123pugsy

More stair pics. 
Last pic to satisfy all of those who don't trust screws.
3-1/2" spikes between all the screws.
The stringers were also toe nailed with 3 on each side. :wink2:

I believe they are going nowhere.


----------



## 123pugsy

More stair stuff. You can see the 2x4 rails that I installed on the top flight. We simply slid the staircase down the rails and screwed them in place. This was done on the two upper flights only.


----------



## 123pugsy

The main floor first flight had a problem as the hanger board could not connect to both stringers. One stringer sat on the floor and one had to screw to the header.
I did a little engineering on the fly and made up a 1/8" thick steel bracket that was lag bolted to the stringers and then held up with a 3/4" plywood board glued and screwed to the header. The bracket has a bend on the top of it for the plywood board to go under it and support it.


----------



## 123pugsy

Finished stairs allowed for framing to finally be done with in the basement.


----------



## 123pugsy

Insulators showed up and things were looking quite good with the plastic installed for protection from the spray foaming.


----------



## 123pugsy

Basement walls coated in a nice shade of purple.


----------



## 123pugsy

Ceilings were supposed to be 9" of 1/2 LB foam.
I could stick my tape measure up to 12" in a lot of the lumpy voids. Joists are 16" so you can do the math.


----------



## 123pugsy

Basement ceiling not too bad and the ducts all sprayed over.


----------



## 123pugsy

They sent their guys back to touch up all the rim boards that were missed and they still missed almost the same amount.
I had to spray foam them myself as there is no way these guys would get it right. And they used 1/2 LB for the touch ups!
They added to the ceiling at the same time.

Roxul in the pics looks pretty good....... or does it?


----------



## 123pugsy

I took down the bundle of Cat6 in the hall closet as it's only about 18" wide and would have been a real pain to try and crimp connectors on in there on a ladder.

They insulated the walls the next day. Everything on this project always comes in just under the wire when I have a new trade on the job.


----------



## 123pugsy

I also installed the tubs before they came back for the Safe and Sound Roxul.
Filled all the holes and used fire caulking. Inspector says not required, but better is better, so why not?

Both filled and leak tested.
Not a drop. Sweet. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Interior upstairs walls all Roxulated....is that even a word??
Doesn't matter, insulated interior walls are a lot better than non insulated interior walls...

Main floor office walls done as well, but probably not much help with all the return air voids.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the laundry shoot bent up by the guys in the shop, assembled it, and welded the seams.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looks like she is gonna be a tight shell. 

Might need some spring assist on the doors to break the seal!!!


----------



## 123pugsy

We had to cut back the vapor barrier in several places. The animals installing the insulation failed to make a slice for some of the wires and the batts were bulging out. 
Geez, how hard is it to make a slice in Roxul? Especially if you work with it every day.

Other places had too much stuffed in as well and the extra was removed.

And then it failed inspection for the insulation. The vapor barrier in front of a duct and supply pipes just didn't cut it with the inspector.

I ripped out the extra insulation and fixed it myself. It's sealed real well and the pipes are on the correct side of the VB now. There is still a full 6" of Roxul behind as the false wall is double 2x4 to house the 6" duct.


----------



## 123pugsy

Drywall arrived the next day after inspection.
The drywall Dudes arrived a day later.
I sent the inspector the repair pics and he gave me the green light to drywall the afternoon before the Dudes arrived.
Everything down to the wire, always.


----------



## 123pugsy

Exactly a week for the rockers to finish and the Mudder Dudes showed up the next day. This would be last Friday. I started cleaning up all the dust last night. What a mess. :surprise:


----------



## 123pugsy

I wasn't totally sitting on my butt while everyone else was doing the work.
I picked up a couple of LED spots for the driveway.

I went to HD to grab all the coach lights for beside the doors as well.


----------



## 123pugsy

I needed some overhead front porch lights as well, so I grabbed some cheap globe style lights.
I made up some brackets from some scrap bits of metal laying around the garage to mount the boxes and welded them in place.

If you remember my range hood build, you'll remember I used some patina juice to make the rivets black. I did the same thing with the zinc plated cages for the lights. The bases were hit with semi gloss black paint.

The J boxes and conduit will be painted white along with the rafters and ceiling later.


----------



## 123pugsy

More pics.

I also installed the eight receptacles and weather covers around the house.
GFCI breaker feeds these of course.


----------



## 123pugsy

And back to the finished mud pics.......


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Exactly a week for the rockers to finish and the Mudder Dudes showed up the next day. This would be last Friday. I started cleaning up all the dust last night. What a mess. :surprise:


A week to put up the drywall? Seems a little slow. 

How long to get the taping and mudding done?

Sure does **** good though! :smile:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> More pics.
> 
> I also installed the eight receptacles and weather covers around the house.
> GFCI breaker feeds these of course.


Did you use a single GFCI in your panel, or individual units right at the outlets?


----------



## ddawg16

Excuse me for smiling.....

But....now it goes really slow. It seems like great progress to get the drywall done....and then it's the little details. Oh the details.......

I'm still working on those details.

BTW.....looks fantastic


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> A week to put up the drywall? Seems a little slow.
> 
> How long to get the taping and mudding done?
> 
> Sure does **** good though! :smile:


Thanks.

Exactly 2 weeks for rock and mud.
Not bad for 2 floors and the basement.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Did you use a single GFCI in your panel, or individual units right at the outlets?


Single breaker for all.
Made a mistake with box fill and couldn't fit a GFCI receptacle to feed the rest with.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Excuse me for smiling.....
> 
> But....now it goes really slow. It seems like great progress to get the drywall done....and then it's the little details. Oh the details.......
> 
> I'm still working on those details.
> 
> BTW.....looks fantastic


Yep. Priming next, followed by tiling and flooring, followed by doors, followed by baseboards and casings, then caulking, then paint, the kitchen cabinets, vanities, sinks, faucets, drains, towel bars, receptacles, switches, light fixtures, floor registers, covering all the spray foam in the basement, humidifiers, and laundry tubs, decks, porch, hand rails, etc...... aaarrgghhhhhh............

Thanks for reminding me ddawg, ha......


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Exactly 2 weeks for rock and mud.
> Not bad for 2 floors and the basement.


I hope you realize I meant to say LOOKS good...damn auto correct. :devil3:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Single breaker for all.
> Made a mistake with box fill and couldn't fit a GFCI receptacle to feed the rest with.


Frankly, I think the single breaker idea is the better one.

Well, best of luck with all the other minor odds and ends.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Yep. Priming next, followed by tiling and flooring, followed by doors, followed by baseboards and casings, then caulking, then paint, the kitchen cabinets, vanities, sinks, faucets, drains, towel bars, receptacles, switches, light fixtures, floor registers, covering all the spray foam in the basement, humidifiers, and laundry tubs, decks, porch, hand rails, etc...... aaarrgghhhhhh............
> 
> Thanks for reminding me ddawg, ha......


Well, I can't let you get too excited and think you are almost done.

Care to guess what I'm doing this weekend?


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> Yep. Priming next, followed by tiling and flooring, followed by doors, followed by baseboards and casings, then caulking, then paint, the kitchen cabinets, vanities, sinks, faucets, drains, towel bars, receptacles, switches, light fixtures, floor registers, covering all the spray foam in the basement, humidifiers, and laundry tubs, decks, porch, hand rails, etc...... aaarrgghhhhhh............
> 
> Thanks for reminding me ddawg, ha......


Then pull your punch list and it will surprise you how long it will be. :smile: It does look great.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> I hope you realize I meant to say LOOKS good...damn auto correct. :devil3:


Ya, I got that. Getting used to reading between the auto correct lines now....:wink2:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Ya, I got that. Getting used to reading between the auto correct lines now....:wink2:


I really do try and proof read all my posts before I hit the button, but when I'm posting from the laptop that damn print is so small that it's hard to catch everything.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Then pull your punch list and it will surprise you how long it will be. :smile: It does look great.


Thanks Jim.
Drywall really changes the game and gives the look of the design finally. I'm happy with my "I always wanted to be an architect" pretending. My design should be OK.

Ya, that list I posted was just a coupla things off the top of my head.
I'm not going to start writing any lists for the fear of letting the list overwhelm me and I will get less sleep at night than I'm getting now. :vs_OMG:


----------



## 123pugsy

Forgot to mention, Aluminum Dudes pulled up a coupla hours ago. :wink2:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Forgot to mention, Aluminum Dudes pulled up a coupla hours ago. :wink2:


And what are the 'aluminum dudes' going to do?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> And what are the 'aluminum dudes' going to do?


Fascia, soffits and eves troughs.


----------



## Colbyt

Looking real sharp. It has been quite a project.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Colbyt.

Started priming this morning.
It's gonna take a while to do.........lain:


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the basement into primer over the weekend.
Had a little help from a friend on Sunday. Good thing, because I could barely even look up anymore and had him do half the ceilings.

The Taper Dudes did a pretty good job, even all the way inside the under stair cubby has crisp corners.
Since they taped and mudded so well, I had no choice but to try and make it look good.


----------



## 123pugsy

Pics from the Aluminum Dudes work:


----------



## Jump-start

Beautiful, absolutely beautiful :vs_love::vs_love::vs_clap:


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the ducts in the attic insulated and added 2x4's every second truss, just in case I need to take a walk thru there one day. Sure hope not. :vs_no_no_no:

Insulation Dudes came by and sprayed in 18" of insulation. Must be correct as they just covered my boards which were set at 18".


----------



## 123pugsy

Got all the primer done and all ceilings painted.


----------



## 123pugsy

Painted ceilings allowed me to install all the pot lights and ceiling fixtures.
I went around and installed all light switches, receptacles and communications outlets.

Dimmers will be done later. The only stuff I'm working on is for occupancy.
No frills til then. That means no paint on any walls as well.


----------



## 123pugsy

The fluorescent fixtures I bought were lousy.
They expect you to have the cable entry exactly at the center and all connections in a box located behind the center cover plate.

Well, I didn't have center power location, nor a junction box, so I made up some metal covers at work to cover all the connections. All lights like this I remember from the past had a cover running down the middle.


----------



## BigJim

Looking good, at least you aren't freezing now, hopefully it isn't as hot there as it is down this way. Won't be long now. :smile:


----------



## cocobolo

OK pugsy, you gotta do me a big favour. For Pete's sake will you slow down! I don't have any chance of keeping up with you at the speed you're going!

It must feel really good having the drywall painted and especially the ceilings out of the way.

And yes, the fluorescent lights all had that channel which just clipped into place...it didn't really matter where the power wire came in. Seems to me they are just trying to make trouble for you!

I bet you're getting pretty excited about being able to move in pretty soon eh?


----------



## ddawg16

Pugs....doesn't it feel good to walk in and see it looking like a real house?

But....I hate to break the bad news. Obvious progress is going to slow down. Those 'details' are going to kill you. It's fun...but slow.

But it's looking real good.

How long before you start living in it?


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Looking good, at least you aren't freezing now, hopefully it isn't as hot there as it is down this way. Won't be long now. :smile:


Thanks.

It's hot as all heck up here.
I forgot to post the condenser pic showing A/C hooked up and running.
Got the house at 63* while I'm working inside. Can't stop or else I start getting cold...ha...


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> OK pugsy, you gotta do me a big favour. For Pete's sake will you slow down! I don't have any chance of keeping up with you at the speed you're going!
> 
> It must feel really good having the drywall painted and especially the ceilings out of the way.
> 
> And yes, the fluorescent lights all had that channel which just clipped into place...it didn't really matter where the power wire came in. Seems to me they are just trying to make trouble for you!
> 
> I bet you're getting pretty excited about being able to move in pretty soon eh?


Thanks.

Shooting for December 1st occupancy.
Supposed to cook a bird this year for the family. Trying to stick to my every two years hosting rotation.

If I don't get occupancy by then, I'll probably still move in anyways.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Pugs....doesn't it feel good to walk in and see it looking like a real house?
> 
> But....I hate to break the bad news. Obvious progress is going to slow down. Those 'details' are going to kill you. It's fun...but slow.
> 
> But it's looking real good.
> 
> How long before you start living in it?


Thanks.

Yep. Nice to see something other than sticks, pipes and wires.

Slow and steady is fine with me. If everyone needs to wait for their bedroom to get paint, so be it.
After the major stuff is done and I move in, I will slow down a bit. The back is killing me. For the first time in a year, I took the day off yesterday.
Back to the grind tonight.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> The back is killing me. For the first time in a year, I took the day off yesterday.
> Back to the grind tonight.


Oh no! Not you too?

Couple of days ago the missus hurt her back badly. All she did was bend down to scrape some drywall spots. But sometimes when you're tired, that's all it takes. It was the end of the day.

She's down in Vancouver today and will see the doc. 

Both of us wear those flexible back braces which we find are a big help. If you don't have one, it's well worth picking one up. The House of Pot or any safety supply has them.


----------



## 123pugsy

I found some nice LED Edison bulbs online. They don't look exactly like them of course, but close enough.

I think the front porch will be bright enough....:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Next was to go around two floors on my hands and knees with the wiggly saw and remove all the errant chunks of mud from the Mudder Dudes slobbishness.

I added screws to the floor sheathing between the nails the Framer Dudes installed.
Can never be enough screwing going on.....of course I had to go around and knock only about 80% of the nails down as they were sticking up.lain:

I then cleaned up the kitchen and upstairs washroom floors to get all the remaining mud and dust up so the Kerdi could stick real well.

Of course I also had to get the Skilsaw out to make relief cuts everywhere the Framer Dudes slammed the sheathing tight on the butt joints. double:lain: lain:


----------



## 123pugsy

Now, those of you with a keen eye may have spotted another one of my innovations in the last pic and thought to yourself, "what the heck is that I see"?

Stainless steel of course....you guys ought to know me by now. :wink2:

Made up some water dams around all the floor penetrations in the kitchen, because there is a 100% guarantee that water will leak from somewhere and screw up the new drywall on the basement ceiling.

Trying to give myself the best chance of not having to do a repair down there.


----------



## 123pugsy

Then came the Kerdi install with a little help from a friend again.
First pic shows excellent contact.

Last pics show the mess with the Kerdi band tape. :surprise:


----------



## 123pugsy

I had to get the toe kick vac outlet piped and rescue two 12 ga romex wires from under the floor boards before tiling.

The first pic shows my "sizers". Various length bits with wiggly saw slices in them for easy insertion into the fittings. The vac pipe cannot fully insert without glue, so I didn't see any other way to test the sizes. These worked wonderfully throughout the whole piping process. Just add or deduct to the tester size as required and cut the "real" piece.


----------



## 123pugsy

I started tiling Sunday morning and only got less than half done in 8 hours. I should have cut every piece before mixing mud as I had to keep stopping to do so.

48" x 8" porcelain planks. Back buttered and back troweled.

So, now no more mystery to the bad back. I've been crawling around on my hands and knees for a week and a half at least. Killer stuff working on the flooring.


----------



## ddawg16

So....you're tiling under your cabinets as well?


----------



## cocobolo

Hmmmm...48" x 8" porcelain tiles? Haven't seen those before. How did you find them to work with pugsy?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> So....you're tiling under your cabinets as well?


Yes. I don't want the dishwasher dropping down a step as it's pushed in.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Hmmmm...48" x 8" porcelain tiles? Haven't seen those before. How did you find them to work with pugsy?


PITA. Some of them bow upwards in the middle. A little too much mud and I need to walk on them to get them down. They sure don't push down easy with the amount of surface they have.

I got the rest cut last night. Let's see how it goes tonight now that I have a bit of experience. Should be a lot easier not having to stop and cut tiles.


----------



## Windows on Wash

They look nice. 

Solid layout and nice lines.


----------



## cocobolo

I agree with WOW, they do look nice.

My old tile mentor, Bud Cline, might have had some advice for you...but he doesn't seem to post anymore. I did get an email from him a few days ago and he's still keeping an eye on me.

If the tiles bend up in the middle, I would say that's definitely better than if they bent down in the middle and up at the ends. Trying to fix a high tile corner is next to impossible. How much bend are we talking about here, 1/8" or so?

The look reminds me of the vinyl plank flooring. One of Val's daughters had some installed about a year ago. So far so good. We are waiting for delivery of ours as we speak.


----------



## BigJim

I'm a little confused, is that ceramic or vinyl flooring?


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> I'm a little confused, is that ceramic or vinyl flooring?


Porcelain tiles.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> I agree with WOW, they do look nice.
> 
> My old tile mentor, Bud Cline, might have had some advice for you...but he doesn't seem to post anymore. I did get an email from him a few days ago and he's still keeping an eye on me.
> 
> If the tiles bend up in the middle, I would say that's definitely better than if they bent down in the middle and up at the ends. Trying to fix a high tile corner is next to impossible. How much bend are we talking about here, 1/8" or so?
> 
> The look reminds me of the vinyl plank flooring. One of Val's daughters had some installed about a year ago. So far so good. We are waiting for delivery of ours as we speak.


Thanks.

The up bends, you can step on the tile and you can bend it flat because it's so long.

So far with the wedges, they seem to be going OK. I wasn't using enough at first, but those rows are under cabinets. I got the hang of it by the time I got to the center area.


----------



## 123pugsy

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The up bends, you can step on the tile and you can bend it flat because it's so long.
> 
> So far with the wedges, they seem to be going OK. I wasn't using enough at first, but those rows are under cabinets. I got the hang of it by the time I got to the center area.


They're going pretty good now and should have the kitchen done today some time.

The key is not to mix the thin set too thick. It takes forever to squeeze them down if you do. 
I really don't know how those Surfer Dudes ride them boards. I have a hard enough time riding a tile that's not even moving. Step on it and "bounce" until it's down to the right spot.

The suctioning of the mortar holds the center humps down nicely.


----------



## BigJim

I would have never guessed that ceramic tile would flex even a little.


----------



## cocobolo

BigJim said:


> I would have never guessed that ceramic tile would flex even a little.


I think you have to consider that most tiles are only 3/8" thick Jim. I don't know how thick pugsy's are, but likely not much more. Even steel bends.

Pugsy, do you have to leave any weight on the tile to keep them flat while the thinset is setting up? Or do they stay in place by themselves?


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> I think you have to consider that most tiles are only 3/8" thick Jim. I don't know how thick pugsy's are, but likely not much more. Even steel bends.
> 
> Pugsy, do you have to leave any weight on the tile to keep them flat while the thinset is setting up? Or do they stay in place by themselves?


5/16" thick and 47-1/2" long allows for flex.

They're staying down fine on their own with the suction affect after bouncing on them and having the thin set ooze out the edges.

The first row every time I restart cannot use cinch wedges, but the following rows all do. They help somewhat but there is still some lippage. Blend out with grout and she'll be fine.


Wahoo!.....Kitchen done. :wink2: Time to move to the mudroom and powder room to the right of the kitchen. Less square footage than the kitchen but a lot more cutting with the 45 degree walls and closet.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the tiles pretty much dead on the height with the hardwood flooring.

Worm's eye view in the pics below.
I had a piece of 3/4 ply screwed to the floor as a target where to end and also a height reference to level to.

A coupla pics with the level on the tiles. They are not perfect but they look fine from above.


----------



## 123pugsy

Kitchen done and grouted.
Sweet!


----------



## 123pugsy

I installed some Kerdi Band in the powder and mud rooms yesterday.
I started cutting tiles today after doing the kitchen grouting.


----------



## 123pugsy

I went around the perimeter of the kitchen with some left over fire caulking which is also a water tight sealant. It's some kind of silicone product and sets up real nice.

I finished up the mud and powder room tiles afterwards. Just need to seal around the edges now.


----------



## ddawg16

I would like to know how you curved the tiles in that last photo.


----------



## 123pugsy

Had a little pit stop to deal with Monday afternoon after locating a new used push rod. The freakin ball fell off. Nice Comp Cams product. I've never seen something like this from a stock rod before. 
Never made it to the cruise night Saturday with the kids.


----------



## 123pugsy

Since the tiles were done, it gave me a chance to get a few doors out of my way.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the tiles cut for the upstairs washroom.
Kerdi band also installed.


----------



## 123pugsy

Finished up the range hood damper parts at work. Had the pieces laser cut and then welded some tabs to the damper to screw it together. Still need to drill and tap holes for the outer hood to mounting bracket. Will have to screw the works to the brick first and then mark the holes in the correct places.


----------



## 123pugsy

I brought the hardwood flooring home to acclimatize and thought I'd take a little sneak preview.


----------



## 123pugsy

I have a friend making up some hand rail blanks for me out of walnut at his shop.
I will give him a hand to feed them thru my router table later to shape them.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I would like to know how you curved the tiles in that last photo.


Panoramic on the ol cell phone camera. It works pretty good. Took me a few years to figure it out after someone told me about it of course.....ol guys just aren't hip to the technology...well at least this guy that is....


----------



## Windows on Wash

Nice work Pugsy.

Never seen a push rod fail like that either. I would call Comp Cams and tell them. They have always been Johnny on the Spot with replacement parts in my dealings with them and they would probably want to know. 

At least you got all the pieces back and didn't grenade the motor. 

TPI motor?


----------



## Colbyt

The house is moving along nicely.

Tough break on the truck.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Nice work Pugsy.
> 
> Never seen a push rod fail like that either. I would call Comp Cams and tell them. They have always been Johnny on the Spot with replacement parts in my dealings with them and they would probably want to know.
> 
> At least you got all the pieces back and didn't grenade the motor.
> 
> TPI motor?


Thanks.

Yes, TPI.

I called those #$#^$cks and they offered to sell me a new one.

What a crock of $#&^# !


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> The house is moving along nicely.
> 
> Tough break on the truck.


Thanks.

Truck is running fine with the used push rod now.


----------



## Windows on Wash

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Yes, TPI.
> 
> I called those #$#^$cks and they offered to sell me a new one.
> 
> What a crock of $#&^# !


I believe that is the definition of poor customer service.

I am sorry to see them do that. I have always had good luck with them and there is no secret that when a company stands behind their product, they usually get a customer for life. 

That is why I will mostly buy Kershaw knives. They replaced the blade on my spring assist for no cost when it was broken as a result of misuse. 

Customer for life as far as I am concerned.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the tiles in the upstairs washroom done. (floor tiles only)

Had to cut the vent hole out after the tile was set the next day. These porcelain jobs break real easy.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next order of business was getting the stairs into their new color along with a coat or two of Varathane.

I started by rounding off all 66 corners that came square from the tread manufacturer even though my drawing showed them round. Nice.

I then sanded them all with 150 grit and hit them with some stain to match the flooring. It's not exact, but close enough.


----------



## ddawg16

One word.....

SEXY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pugs....have a look at my stair lighting posts....it might be a good option for those stairs. With each night, we like them more and more.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> One word.....
> 
> SEXY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Pugs....have a look at my stair lighting posts....it might be a good option for those stairs. With each night, we like them more and more.



Thanks ddawg.

Overhead lighting will have to do for now.


----------



## 123pugsy

I drilled a couple new holes in my 3-4-5 jig to bolt the 80" piece at a 45° angle.
I then glued the first three pieces of flooring together with carpenter's glue and slapped then down with PL Premium. I used the jig to true them up and face nailed around the edges at the wall.

A friend told me to use a tile edge when I was laying the plank tiles in the kitchen and mudroom. of course, like always, I don't listen so well. I hate trims and threshold plates.

Flooring is hand scraped "Indonesian Walnut", ha...salesmen....
It's actually Acacia and looks pretty good. The stain has a slight red to it.
I may be able to pull off the "no beige allowed in my house" statement I made a couple of years ago. We'll see at the end of this never ending project. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the second coat of poly on last night.

Took a coupla pics this morning. It dried with a pretty good sheen.


----------



## aneesha

has been bookmark, this seems like a very interesting thread


----------



## cocobolo

Nice job on the stair treads pugsy!


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Nice job on the stair treads pugsy!


Thanks Keith.

That's two thick coats of poly.
Everything I've read, (except the can of course), says to use 3 coats.
Will two thick coats be enough?


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Keith.
> 
> That's two thick coats of poly.
> Everything I've read, (except the can of course), says to use 3 coats.
> Will two thick coats be enough?


I would be inclined to say yes. But to be perfectly honest with you, there probably is no 100% right answer to that. If it looks good, then it most likely is. Being inside you shouldn't have any trouble.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> I would be inclined to say yes. But to be perfectly honest with you, there probably is no 100% right answer to that. If it looks good, then it most likely is. Being inside you shouldn't have any trouble.


Thanks.
The second coat looks smooth, good and thick so may be fine.

A friend told me, if I need the third coat, to wait and add it later as they'll probably still get scratched up during the construction. Makes sense.


----------



## 123pugsy

Wahoo!
First floor hardwood done. 

I don't know which is worse. The boredom of these jobs or the back breaking pain...lain: It's a pretty close match.

I got to a point where to continue, I would have to start again at a corner and work my way outwards and pray that the boards lined up. I read about turning the next row around but I didn't want to face nail two edges where this transition took place. I had my pal John over at the millwork shop cut me some splines from hardwood. He did a great job as they fit nice and snug.

(In the pics below, I could have done without, but I forgot to get pics at the place where this was a must do operation so I used the spline here as well which made it quite simple)


----------



## 123pugsy

Some more pics....

After this 45 degree job where I had a minimum of 2 nails by hand at each end, the upstairs straight runs should be a breeze. :vs_karate:


----------



## Windows on Wash

Beautiful Pugsy. Very nice work. Looks fantastic.


----------



## cocobolo

I must say that looks pretty darned good. 

Next time maybe you'll use linoleum...and have someone else stick it down for you! JK.


----------



## ddawg16

I like the color....I like the angle....

Forgive me for being smug....but I was at that point once....not realizing just how much more work there was.....

Just wait until you start doing baseboards. Seeing how you are like me, it's going to be a lot of work to get perfect.....and knowing you, perfect it will be.

And then you will have all the other woodworking to do......it never ends.

But don't despair.....you will get there....just like I'll get there....... one of these days...

It might help if I would stop starting new projects.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I like the color....I like the angle....
> 
> Forgive me for being smug....but I was at that point once....not realizing just how much more work there was.....
> 
> Just wait until you start doing baseboards. Seeing how you are like me, it's going to be a lot of work to get perfect.....and knowing you, perfect it will be.
> 
> And then you will have all the other woodworking to do......it never ends.
> 
> But don't despair.....you will get there....just like I'll get there....... one of these days...
> 
> It might help if I would stop starting new projects.


No kiddin....I got at least two years left if I put the same amount of hours in as I do now.

Just shootin for occupancy.
Frills like base boards and paint can wait.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> No kiddin....I got at least two years left if I put the same amount of hours in as I do now.
> 
> Just shootin for occupancy.
> Frills like base boards and paint can wait.


Yup....same here


----------



## TheEplumber

Me and the wife went out looking for hardwood yesterday. This particular branch of a NW chain store carried limited 3/4" stock. I asked why and the salesman told me I couldn't nail 3/4" hardwood to OSB- only to plywood subfloor so that limited the amount of homes for installation. (I don't buy his story) He said the engineered products- which they have lots of- can be nailed/stapled to OSB.

Regardless, I'm amazed that you actually chose a floor- the choices are endless..... It looks great! And very close too what we want.
I'm only doing about a 1000 SF


----------



## ddawg16

TheEplumber said:


> Me and the wife went out looking for hardwood yesterday. This particular branch of a NW chain store carried limited 3/4" stock. *I asked why and the salesman told me I couldn't nail 3/4" hardwood to OSB- only to plywood subfloor so that limited the amount of homes for installation.* (I don't buy his story) He said the engineered products- which they have lots of- can be nailed/stapled to OSB.
> 
> Regardless, I'm amazed that you actually chose a floor- the choices are endless..... It looks great! And very close too what we want.
> I'm only doing about a 1000 SF


He must have been a used car salesman in his previous job.


----------



## TheEplumber

ddawg16 said:


> He must have been a used car salesman in his previous job.


I think his night job is across the street at HD.... :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

My subfloor is Advantech. It's different than OSB somewhat. Strong as all get out and heavy. I think there is more glue in it and less air pockets.

I believe your HD salesman is trying to sell you goods with a higher markup.
I had to pull a few staples and they were in solid.


----------



## 123pugsy

I had to install the skirt boards on the stairs next in order to install the bull nose edge on the landings and upstairs stair opening.

I had to cut three of them in order to slide them into place. Will need to get some Woodepox to fill the cracks.


----------



## 123pugsy

Nosing boards all installed and stained Friday.
I got the second coat of Varathane on about an hour ago.

In between rounds of staining and Varathaning, I got 2 bedrooms into hardwood.
I used the spline trick to reverse directions when I got around the corner in bedroom 2.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got out into the hallway and started bedroom 3 today. Sweet. Hopefully be done this flooring by next weekend and then it's time to set up a few things in the kitchen for final hydro inspection.


----------



## 123pugsy

Finally!
Six weeks of crawling around on the floor doing tiles and hardwood is over. :vs_karate:


----------



## 123pugsy

I had the boys in the shop throw a temporary kitchen island together so I could terminate two circuits for the final hydro inspection. Outlets for island top and one below for the microwave are finished wired now.

I had the wife going believing the stainless island was the permanent fixture.

I got the two dining room ceiling fans installed today as well.


----------



## 123pugsy

A lot of action around here.

The Fixer Dudes showed up Thursday.
They're fixing up the outside driveway and grading stuff. :wink2:


----------



## cocobolo

Hey pugsy...nice job! Must be about time for you to have a rest and go work on your car! :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Hey pugsy...nice job! Must be about time for you to have a rest and go work on your car! :devil3:


Thanks.

Ya, about two years from now....lain:


----------



## cocobolo

How about two months...TOPS! :biggrin2:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> How about two months...TOPS! :biggrin2:



Thanks.....I used to be able to move quick. 
Massive amount of work left.

I just started on the kitchen exhaust system and hitting issues already. What else is new?

Sure hope the fan never breaks down because at least one cabinet plus the whole hood will need to come down to replace it. :vs_OMG:


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking great. Solid progress sir.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> *I had the boys in the shop throw a temporary kitchen island together* so I could terminate two circuits for the final hydro inspection. Outlets for island top and one below for the microwave are finished wired now.
> 
> I had the wife going believing the stainless island was the permanent fixture.
> 
> I got the two dining room ceiling fans installed today as well.


Oh yea, just have the 'throw something together'.....holly crap, I'd pay money for that. Not for my kitchen....but the garage.

Notice how the 'perceived' rate of progress is slowing down?

Not enough hours in the day


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Oh yea, just have the 'throw something together'.....holly crap, I'd pay money for that. Not for my kitchen....but the garage.
> 
> Notice how the 'perceived' rate of progress is slowing down?
> 
> Not enough hours in the day



Throw together is correct. It is thin material made from cheap 430 grade stainless.
I was going to use galvanized, but figured with the slow rate of progress, it will be in use for at least a year before I get time to start the real one.

Garage table, for sure. I have 3 guys on the waiting list for me to be done with it.
They want it for a backyard bar of sorts.


----------



## Colbyt

> Garage table, for sure. I have 3 guys on the waiting list for me to be done with it.


Make that 4 but the drive up to get it may be a deal breaker. 

Suck it up and get in by Christmas. easy for me to say.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Make that 4 but the drive up to get it may be a deal breaker.
> 
> Suck it up and get in by Christmas. easy for me to say.


Thanks.

Officially, it's my rotation to cook the turkey, (which the wife does). I will have to be in by Christmas in case my sister's plans of hosting fall through.

Occupancy or not, I will have to be in there.


----------



## 123pugsy

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.....I used to be able to move quick.
> Massive amount of work left.
> 
> I just started on the kitchen exhaust system and hitting issues already. What else is new?
> 
> Sure hope the fan never breaks down because at least one cabinet plus the whole hood will need to come down to replace it. :vs_OMG:


I was full of baloney with the comment about taking down cabinets to remove the fan. I have access thru the cupboard doors and only need to drop the stainless hood box down to disconnect ducts and get the fan out. I found a nifty take off flange that screws from inside the hood box allowing me to feed all the ducts and muffler from below.


----------



## 123pugsy

In the meantime, I have the Fixer Dudes working outside, and at work I have the Silgranit kitchen sink being delivered.

Things weren't looking too good when the box arrived. The box looked like the pet Detective delivered it.






Of course, this is the second busted up sink.
So now I have two boxes sitting at the shop that I will need to dispose of after 30 days and I will be out about a hunert bucks from duties and taxes that they refuse to refund.

I now have a 16 ga stainless steel under mount sink on order.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Wowsers.

That one took a nice wallop during shipping.


----------



## 123pugsy

First stainless box screwed to the face frames I made almost two years ago. No box on the top to allow the fan and ducts to pass thru.

The fan inside the cupboard was a pretty tight fit. I had to relocate the electrical box and cut a hole in the cupboard box top for access.


----------



## 123pugsy

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Fixer Dudes doing their thing.....

Felix the Fixer talked me out of following the drawing whereby the city engineers had me draw in 2% slope from the garage door all the way until it blends with the hill of the driveway. They also had me draw 2% slope from each edge to the center, so the driveway would be like a gully. They also had me draw in a curb like a city street curb, 6" high because the neighbor complained that the rain water from my property is flooding their basement. My property would have been royally screwed if I would of followed thru with that nonsense. Also, my water pipe would have been less than 5' below grade. Not good.

Just hope they sign off on it. No water can now flow to my neighbor's lot, so should be no issues.


----------



## 123pugsy

Back to the cabinets.

I cut the hole in the top of the hood for the duct connection.
I then filled the whole works with insulation to keep the pipes from sweating.

Finally, I used some No More Nails to glue on the end panels of the upper cabinets.
One section done. What a ton of work....


----------



## 123pugsy

More outside shots.


----------



## 123pugsy

Final electrical inspection passed after I sent a few pics of three deficiencies.
Cover plate, cable clamps on furnace B/X, and a label.


----------



## cocobolo

You must be thrilled about your sink being damaged...NOT!

I'll keep my comments to myself about that sort of thing. So far I have been incredibly lucky with all my shipping.

Have a question for you. Where you are cutting the circle out, that's stainless isn't it? If so, what blade did you use? Did you use some sort of punch to cut the small circle out to start the bigger cut? I think I need some lessons in how to work with stainless.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> You must be thrilled about your sink being damaged...NOT!
> 
> I'll keep my comments to myself about that sort of thing. So far I have been incredibly lucky with all my shipping.
> 
> Have a question for you. Where you are cutting the circle out, that's stainless isn't it? If so, what blade did you use? Did you use some sort of punch to cut the small circle out to start the bigger cut? I think I need some lessons in how to work with stainless.


Yep. Pilot hole 1/8 with a regular high speed steel split point drill bit. "Stubby" bits are the best. Drill 1/2" next. Punched a 7/8 hole with the hydraulic knockout set from Princess Auto. Then used the biggest punch.

They go on sale for about 130 bucks every now and then.
Can't find the punch set online now. It may be one of those "special buys"
It comes in a yellow metal case.

The electric shear is also a Princess Auto job, cheap when on sale and it cuts really well.


----------



## cocobolo

A shear then, not jigsaw. OK, I have a Canadian Tire shear, and it too cuts amazingly well. Never tried it on stainless yet, but it goes through 18 ga steel with no trouble at all.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> A shear then, not jigsaw. OK, I have a Canadian Tire shear, and it too cuts amazingly well. Never tried it on stainless yet, but it goes through 18 ga steel with no trouble at all.


That will cut it no problem if the blades are OK and the gap is set right.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next step was to install the fan to remove the heat from the fridge.


----------



## 123pugsy

The second upper corner cabinets installed and then started the sink cabinet base platform.

Had to make some covers to clean up the pipes.


----------



## 123pugsy

Face frame added and screwed to the wall.
It pulled back even with shims and since I had PL under the the box to the base connection, it couldn't go back down. The face frame that sticks out on the right has a gap from about 3/32 at the top to zero at the bottom. Oh well, it can't always be exactly.

I clamped the fridge gable in place and it required a 1/8 spacer between the face frame and gable to line up with the upper cabinets. Not bad I guess.


----------



## 123pugsy

And then within a month or so, another push rod toast....this time the ball got hammered down into the rod.

I got a set of one piece rods and will change them all. Got to do this soon so I can pick up some lumber. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

I set up the drawer unit and glued and screwed it down to the base platform.

I added a s/s box to deflect the heat and A/C out of the baseboard under the corner cabinet.

I was looking for straight bits of lumber in my stock pile and I blew a gasket. Nothing straight. I went and grabbed some channels we keep in the shop. These are always straight. These gave a nice surface for screwing down the sub tops. They also helped secure the top of the drawer cabinet in place.

Last pic shows the gap I mentioned.


----------



## Windows on Wash

123pugsy said:


> And then within a month or so, another push rod toast....this time the ball got hammered down into the rod.
> 
> I got a set of one piece rods and will change them all. Got to do this soon so I can pick up some lumber. :wink2:


That is crazy. You sure the valve-train isn't binding some where with revs or interference.


----------



## 123pugsy

I knew building cabinets before the house went up was asking for trouble.

The dishwasher opening of course.
It's an 1//8 too wide. :smile:

Also, there's a 1/32" difference between the dimensions from the cabinet to the windows, ha.....

The framers must have followed the drawings to within a 1/16". They got the window opening dead on and then they placed the two interior walls exactly in the right place.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> That is crazy. You sure the valve-train isn't binding some where with revs or interference.


Nope. All good that way. Remember, this is 3 years from when I installed the cam.
3 piece rods, made In another country, lain: and it's not the USA or Canada. 

I have very short duration cam 202 with .468 lift. That ramps up quite quick. 
I've never had an OEM rod break before, bend yes, but never break.
I got hardened rods for it now.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Made somewhere else other than USA or Canada.

Perhaps they were made in...


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> And then within a month or so, another push rod toast....this time the ball got hammered down into the rod.
> 
> I got a set of one piece rods and will change them all. Got to do this soon so I can pick up some lumber. :wink2:


If it has happened more than once, then the steel quality is very likely to blame.

I have had a pushrod go through a rocker arm once, but that was over 30 years ago.

Most of the offshore steel is lacking in carbon, which means it is usually too soft.

I take it the 208º is at .050 lift? I think the new cam in the 383 going in the '33 is closer to 223º at .050. But lift is around .525", so still quite a ramp. The rollers should be able to handle that....I hope!


----------



## cocobolo

Those little black feet under your cabinet base look suspiciously like the ones I have from IKEA. Almost impossible to keep them on the cabinet if you move the base even an inch.

I will be doing a post on my thread about the drawer pulls. You'd think nothing could go wrong with a simple pull, wouldn't you? By the way, they are made in Donald Trump's favourite country...China! :surprise:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> If it has happened more than once, then the steel quality is very likely to blame.
> 
> I have had a pushrod go through a rocker arm once, but that was over 30 years ago.
> 
> Most of the offshore steel is lacking in carbon, which means it is usually too soft.
> 
> I take it the 208º is at .050 lift? I think the new cam in the 383 going in the '33 is closer to 223º at .050. But lift is around .525", so still quite a ramp. The rollers should be able to handle that....I hope!


The rollers roll up the ramps fine. The rods are the weak link. Lifters pushing up and spring pressure pushing down, these poor rods really have quite the forces to deal with.

Comp shouldn't even be selling this junk. Made in China!


----------



## 123pugsy

Back to our regularly scheduled programming.

The first pic is the one I forgot above showing the steel channels for supporting the counter top. Two pieces were used at the other end as well as the cabinet didn't go all the way to the corner. I just hate dead corners that collect five years worth of stale food or other stuff that never gets used. Uppers are the same All corners boxed off.

Time to bring the cabinets over and around the fridge.
I used the face frame from the right side of the fridge to check the gable on the left. It needed to come forward 1/4" so I took it all down to do the adjustment.

I had initially thought the face frame was going to hold up the cabinet, but it's actually the other way around. I screwed two solid chunks of maple across two ceiling joists to hang the cabinet from.


----------



## 123pugsy

Drilling porcelain tile is the pits. I burned up a diamond hole saw style bit in no time.
The glass/tile spade bit at super slow speed cut thru like a hot knife thru butter, but not really. It still did the job though.

I screwed down a block of solid poplar to screw the pantry cabinet platform to. Platform was made short so I could shim it up and then drive screws thru into the block at the correct height.

After setting it all up, face frame and box had to come down to assemble and then put it all back again afterwards. What a whacked way to make kitchen cabinets.


----------



## 123pugsy

Which gets us up to date. This morning's project was setting up the last cabinet. :vs_karate:

With the 45's and the box being sheet metal of a different shape than the face frame, all kinds of twisting is going on. It's semi level. I will have to shim the plywood sub top tomorrow before screwing it down. I have it PL- ing to the base now with a couple of clamps holding it in place.

I got all the knob holes drilled and some installed. Waiting for more to come in.


----------



## cocobolo

Well, one thing is for sure...you don't mess around when it comes to making sure the cabinets aren't going to move anywhere! That's one helluva of a good job you did there.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> The rollers roll up the ramps fine. The rods are the weak link. Lifters pushing up and spring pressure pushing down, these poor rods really have quite the forces to deal with.
> 
> Comp shouldn't even be selling this junk. Made in China!


Now you've made me nervous.

The new cam & lifters in the 383 is a Comp cam. But I'm not sure if the pushrods are theirs or not, as the boys picked this one up for me. I will send them a note to ask right away.

Do you know if Comp is still peddling the weak pushrods?

Just a curiosity question...what sort of RPM have you been spinning your motor up to?


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Now you've made me nervous.
> 
> The new cam & lifters in the 383 is a Comp cam. But I'm not sure if the pushrods are theirs or not, as the boys picked this one up for me. I will send them a note to ask right away.
> 
> Do you know if Comp is still peddling the weak pushrods?
> 
> Just a curiosity question...what sort of RPM have you been spinning your motor up to?


Don't sweat it. Make sure you're not getting the 3 piece push rods with the welded balls. I believe they actually spot weld them and that's why they break.

My new rods are Comp as well, but they are the Magnum High Energy I believe, one piece. They are hardened and look like quality pieces.

Just Googled and they are chromoly, heat treated.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Well, one thing is for sure...you don't mess around when it comes to making sure the cabinets aren't going to move anywhere! That's one helluva of a good job you did there.


Thanks Keith. 

Trying to maintain 30-1/8" between the cabinets for the stove. Nice tight space without huge gaps will look good.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Keith.
> 
> Trying to maintain 30-1/8" between the cabinets for the stove. Nice tight space without huge gaps will look good.


I'm going to cheat with our stove.

The long counter (14') with the sink, left a small gap much of the way down against the wall. So I trimmed the end off using a Fein tool. Worked like a charm.

Then the turn at the corner is fitting better, so I think I'm good to go there.

Next comes the stove, which I can push up against the preceding cabinet. Once that's in place, I can push the last cabinet(s) against the stove. I expect there will be a small gap in there somewhere, which I don't think will concern me. There should always be enough room to pull a stove out if need be down the road.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Don't sweat it. Make sure you're not getting the 3 piece push rods with the welded balls. I believe they actually spot weld them and that's why they break.
> 
> My new rods are Comp as well, but they are the Magnum High Energy I believe, one piece. They are hardened and look like quality pieces.
> 
> Just Googled and they are chromoly, heat treated.


Haven't heard back from number two son, who is the engine guru. Actually, the long block was put together at the machine shop, and I understand he's a pretty fussy guy. That's a good thing. He would likely be aware of any troubles that have cropped up in the recent past.

In any event, I'll let you know what comes of it all when I hear.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Haven't heard back from number two son, who is the engine guru. Actually, the long block was put together at the machine shop, and I understand he's a pretty fussy guy. That's a good thing. He would likely be aware of any troubles that have cropped up in the recent past.
> 
> In any event, I'll let you know what comes of it all when I hear.


Trust no one, especially guys that "know what they are doing".
An engine re-builder told me to hammer the domes of my rocker nuts and they won't back off, no, you don't need polylocs......


----------



## Windows on Wash

Now we are talking. Only way you break those pushrods is if there is something much, much worse happening below.


----------



## cocobolo

Windows on Wash said:


> Now we are talking. Only way you break those pushrods is if there is something much, much worse happening below.


About the only thing that can come apart below would be a roller lifter. Admittedly it does happen, but it's very uncommon. And Pugsy didn't say which end of the pushrod got damaged. 

My guess would be the top end. That's where the pounding happens. And don't forget that the bottom end only moves up and down, while the top end moves up and down as well as sideways (in line with the rocker) so it has two motions to deal with.

One thing that doesn't often get checked is the actual clearance between the pushrods and the head where the pushrod goes through. The least interference will cause extra strain on the top of the pushrod and that could be the cause of some damage.

It's easy to tell if that's happening, because a clean area will appear on the pushrod where it goes through the head.


----------



## ddawg16

Pugs..question on your floor. (and since you've seen my 'kitchen mod', you can see where I'm going)

I noticed you put tile under your cabinets. Most people just tile up to them.

And then you had the issue drilling into the tile.

Do you still think this is the best way to do it? I need to do something similar to what you did around the fridge but I'm thinking it would be easier to tile around the wood block vs drilling through the tile. I know how hard it is do do in the shower.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Pugs..question on your floor. (and since you've seen my 'kitchen mod', you can see where I'm going)
> 
> I noticed you put tile under your cabinets. Most people just tile up to them.
> 
> And then you had the issue drilling into the tile.
> 
> Do you still think this is the best way to do it? I need to do something similar to what you did around the fridge but I'm thinking it would be easier to tile around the wood block vs drilling through the tile. I know how hard it is do do in the shower.


The drilling was fine when I remembered to do it like I read on one post a guy made.
The glass/tile spade bit, really slow so you can feel it "crunching" thru the tile. Start by center punching the coating, but don't crack it.

I will always go full tile. Even under bathroom vanities. Not under tubs of course.

However, going around cupboards is OK as long as you keep enough height for dishwashers and fridge alcoves. It depends on the project. Me, I had a wide open room. Renovations are a different animal altogether.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the knobs installed and pulled the "don't hit your head here" tape off the range hood. The tape didn't help much. I still got a bunch of lumps.

New stainless sink arrived and it's not broken. I got the hole cut out and routed the rim down flush with the plywood.

Quartz should be ready in a couple of weeks.


----------



## 123pugsy

Scary setting valve lash on a running engine on brand new asphalt I tell you.






Keith; missed one question about RPM's. It's max 4500 with the TPI.


----------



## 123pugsy

Busy weekend.
I got the beams set on Saturday and then the joists down yesterday for the front porch.

My handy dandy 60,80,100 square sure is helpful when working with large stuff.

Finished the cross blocking today.


----------



## ddawg16

Pugs......you are making my life miserable....I see some of the stuff you are doing....it gives me ideas.....next thing you know I'm tearing my kitchen apart.

Care to guess what I'm doing this weekend???? Crawling under the house to install some girders....before I start putting in tile in the kitchen....deflection calcs say my 8' span with 2x8's on 16 OC is fine....but, I feel a slight dip in the middle...maybe 1/4". With the fridge sitting in the middle of that span, I think I would rather have the extra support.

Pugs....it's all your fault.

Now I'm seeing your 'porch'...and thinking...hmmmmm.....


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Pugs......you are making my life miserable....I see some of the stuff you are doing....it gives me ideas.....next thing you know I'm tearing my kitchen apart.
> 
> Care to guess what I'm doing this weekend???? Crawling under the house to install some girders....before I start putting in tile in the kitchen....deflection calcs say my 8' span with 2x8's on 16 OC is fine....but, I feel a slight dip in the middle...maybe 1/4". With the fridge sitting in the middle of that span, I think I would rather have the extra support.
> 
> Pugs....it's all your fault.
> 
> Now I'm seeing your 'porch'...and thinking...hmmmmm.....


Ha....good stuff, I'll keep the projects coming to keep you on your toes.

I feel your pain. Nothing worse than crawling around trying to work upside down.


----------



## Windows on Wash

#itspugsy'sfault

Now we just need a picture to go with the "hashtag"

I am starting a new twitter trend


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> #itspugsy'sfault
> 
> Now we just need a picture to go with the "hashtag"
> 
> I am starting a new twitter trend


You're in to the modern goods.
I don't even know what a hashtag is. :vs_worry:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> You're in to the modern goods.
> I don't even know what a hashtag is. :vs_worry:


It's that Twitter thing.......for people who have no life and want to share their 'no life' with the world.


----------



## Windows on Wash

123pugsy said:


> You're in to the modern goods.
> I don't even know what a hashtag is. :vs_worry:





ddawg16 said:


> It's that Twitter thing.......for people who have no life and want to share their 'no life' with the world.


For the record...I don't have a twitter account, but do know what the "hashtag" thing means.

That said, I would never have a twitter account as the owner is a completely unapologetic jerk and actively censors and ban folks with ideas with whom he disagrees. 

He is more than welcome to do that as a private business owner, but if a another business were doing it with different political leaning than his (I will let you guess which direction here), people would be rioting in the streets.

If it weren't for double standards....well you know the rest.


----------



## ddawg16

Windows on Wash said:


> For the record...I don't have a twitter account, but do know what the "hashtag" thing means.
> 
> That said, I would never have a twitter account as the owner is a completely unapologetic jerk and actively censors and ban folks with ideas with whom he disagrees.
> 
> He is more than welcome to do that as a private business owner, but if a another business were doing it with different political leaning than his (I will let you guess which direction here), people would be rioting in the streets.
> 
> If it weren't for double standards....well you know the rest.


Oh, you mean like banning Milo?

I've actually invited him out for a ride-along....


----------



## Windows on Wash

He is probably the most famous and definitely pushes the boundaries, however, this guy has banned countless others for complete non-violations of their policies. 

The owner has zero backbone and twitter will be dead and gone in 2-4 years.


----------



## ddawg16

We can only hope.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next step was to get posts out of the basement and installed. I made up some male/female bottom plates out of 14 ga stainless. I goofed up on the bottoms. I made the bend only 1" compared to the top's 1-1/2". The weight of the roof would have made the top plate edges dig right into the beam eventually so I padded the insides with double 3/4 plywood.

I have no idea why I waited so long to buy a laser level. I could have used it about a hundred times previously on other stuff, DOH!


----------



## 123pugsy

A 12 foot 2x12 gave me enough for 6 stringers.
I used pressure treated posts for the handrail attachment. I will have to wait a year or so to paint, along with the rest of the porch, so no worries there.
Lots of bracing to keep them solid.


----------



## 123pugsy

Since it was the weekend and I had to wait for the building inspector before closing up the porch floor, it was time to move to the upstairs washroom next.

I used Kerdi Band and thinset to close the gaps in the Densshield.

I had picked up enough dark grey tiles for the job. In my infinite wisdom, I picked up a few pieces of different tile and snapped a pic. I showed my 8 year old son and he told me to go with the lighter color. Swell. I already had them upstairs, so back down to the truck and back to the store, and then to a different store to get the lighter ones. Nice for the already aching back....

Feel free to let me know if my son made the right choice afterwards.

Then, I applied some Redgard for good measure.


----------



## 123pugsy

Framing passed building inspection so I could start installing the 5/4 planks.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got on to the tiles yesterday and today. Just need to cut two small bits down at the floor and glue them in tomorrow.


----------



## 123pugsy

While I was waiting for Redgard to dry, I went down to the basement and started setting Dricore panels into the utility room.


----------



## DIYknot

What a great thread this was with all of the pictures and updates. You are talented my friend.


----------



## 123pugsy

DIYknot said:


> What a great thread this was with all of the pictures and updates. You are talented my friend.


Thanks.

Dricore panels are down in the basement.
A few Tapcons here and there and I will be ready for carpet. 

Public washroom is pretty much done. Waiting for a vanity to be delivered.
The washroom door may not close though, as it may hit the counter top, so I may need to order a custom top for it and use this top in the en suite.

Stair railings are next. A bit of a screw up to contend with here. Let's see if anyone can see it when finished.


----------



## 123pugsy

Tub siliconed and wainscotting glued up. No More Nails is some wonderful stuff.
I got the door installed as well.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more pics of the public washroom almost done....

Of course, with "Pugsy luck", I would lift the toilet seat and feel a sliver of porcelain in my finger nail. Let's see how Toto handles this problem. I called them and a customer rep told me when they have flaking problems, they're usually in a group. I says, "that's swell" as I bought a group of three. The guy says not as in a bunch of toilets, as in a group of flakes. Then I remembered there were two flakes so they probably won't try to say I did it.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Clean. I know the pros don't tape off their caulk line, but taping it off makes for a perfect line. 

Sucks about the toilet bowl.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Clean. I know the pros don't tape off their caulk line, but taping it off makes for a perfect line.
> 
> Sucks about the toilet bowl.



I got the return authorization code from Toto for the exchange.
A bit of a pain but they're standing behind their product.


----------



## drtbk4ever

123pugsy said:


> Ya, you can't go wrong with central vac. So simple to install also.
> I think the toe kick pan will be the best part of it. Starting to wonder if I should have roughed in more of them.


 I know I am VERY late to this party. When we did our reno, it was suggested we install the Vroom instead of the toe kick. BEST darn thing we did. That thing puts the toe kick thing to shame.


----------



## drtbk4ever

drtbk4ever said:


> I know I am VERY late to this party. When we did our reno, it was suggested we install the Vroom instead of the toe kick. BEST darn thing we did. That thing puts the toe kick thing to shame.


Here is the picture of the Vroom.

Excellent work there Pugsy. The place is looking fantastic. And thanks for sharing your journey with us.


----------



## 123pugsy

drtbk4ever said:


> Here is the picture of the Vroom.
> 
> Excellent work there Pugsy. The place is looking fantastic. And thanks for sharing your journey with us.


Thanks.

That looks like a good device to have along with the toe kick vac outlet.


----------



## 123pugsy

3 weeks behind on updates. I'm really slacking off these days.

I got all the Dricore down with some help from a friend.

Next up was a test of the newel post mounting hardware. I had to offset the mounting hole from center 1/2" to hit the "meat" below the flooring.

Also needed to install the stringer edge boards that wrap around underneath the stairs. These are required to attach the handrails to and a few balusters as well at the top. The rails that go underneath these will officially be guard rails only.

Each flight in the whole house is getting only one hand rail to save space on the small 3' stairs.


----------



## 123pugsy

Next order of business was to install the newel posts.


----------



## 123pugsy

Pics with the rails in place.
Walnut to match the stair treads.


----------



## 123pugsy

The stars and planets then aligned. Carpet Dudes and the Quartz Dudes called the exact same morning and they both came over to do their thing.

The first three carpet pics below are of one piece about 34' long all the way under the stairs, thru the door and into the bedroom. I wasn't watching, but these guys are like magic fitting it like that.

Carpet Dude also had some left over engineered floor which he installed at the same time in the utility room.


----------



## 123pugsy

Fuzzy pics of Quartz Dudes in action:


----------



## 123pugsy

Stairs con't...


----------



## 123pugsy

I blew everything apart to get painted and stained.
I have a friend with a spray booth that will hit them with paint and stain/clear coat.

Pics of the mounting hardware. Second pic you can see the gear drive cam. Just use an Allan key to tighten them up. I saw many on line that require using a 1/2" nut and a 3/4" box wrench. They looked like they would take forever especially since the post needs to come off several times to shave the correct angle at the bottom. The floor is not perfectly flat/level anywhere.

The hand rails use the same kind of cam to lock them in place. This was money well spent.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking really good man. 

You are a machine. You and cocobolo should start your own contracting company. I would hire you.

Machine and hotrod fabrication on the side as a secondary service category.


----------



## cocobolo

Hahaha! That's funny!

Pugsy, I was just thinking of saying that you should get your car all finished up and take a trip out this way. We'd be happy to let you stay here for a couple of weeks...free food and digs.

Then I would con you into helping get the worst of this place finished up and we could go for a little drive in our cars! :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Hahaha! That's funny!
> 
> Pugsy, I was just thinking of saying that you should get your car all finished up and take a trip out this way. We'd be happy to let you stay here for a couple of weeks...free food and digs.
> 
> Then I would con you into helping get the worst of this place finished up and we could go for a little drive in our cars! :devil3:


Oh, I'll be by for sure when I take the rod for a 4 month or so cruise across Canada and down thru the States.

I'll just make sure my rod is done precisely when your house is done, ha.....


----------



## Windows on Wash

123pugsy said:


> Oh, I'll be by for sure when I take the rod for a 4 month or so cruise across Canada and down thru the States.
> 
> I'll just make sure my rod is done precisely when your house is done, ha.....


Coming through DC? You are staying with me if you do.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Coming through DC? You are staying with me if you do.


Thanks for the offers guys.

Ya, I'll have to go thru DC for sure on the way back.


----------



## ddawg16

The boys and I had dinner with WoW....and he gave us a ride to the train station....

Yes....WoW is a normal guy....and tall.....

It was a good trip.....


----------



## Windows on Wash

ddawg16 said:


> The boys and I had dinner with WoW....and he gave us a ride to the train station....
> 
> Yes....WoW is a normal guy....and tall.....
> 
> It was a good trip.....


I object....:biggrin2:

Ddawg and the boys were great. Strange how that works that normal folks are happy to meet in person.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Oh, I'll be by for sure when I take the rod for a 4 month or so cruise across Canada and down thru the States.
> 
> I'll just make sure my rod is done precisely when your house is done, ha.....


...4 months! That's going to be quite the trip. Any idea when it may happen?


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> ...4 months! That's going to be quite the trip. Any idea when it may happen?


Years away yet Keith. Another year and a half on the house and another 3-4 years on the rod.


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> Years away yet Keith. Another year and a half on the house and another 3-4 years on the rod.


Good grief, I will be dead by then. LOL Sorry, just thinking out loud.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Good grief, I will be dead by then. LOL Sorry, just thinking out loud.


You better hang in there Jim.
I'll be passing by your neck of the wood also.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Years away yet Keith. Another year and a half on the house and another 3-4 years on the rod.


OK, so that's 66 months. I'm going to hold you to that. So on May 6th, 2021, I shall expect a knock on the front door. Hopefully I won't be pushing up daisies by then and we can go for a blast around beautiful southern British Columbia. We really do have some great driving roads out this way.

If I'm really lucky, I might even have the C-cab built by then. Now, that really will be a blast! :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> OK, so that's 66 months. I'm going to hold you to that. So on May 6th, 2021, I shall expect a knock on the front door. Hopefully I won't be pushing up daisies by then and we can go for a blast around beautiful southern British Columbia. We really do have some great driving roads out this way.
> 
> If I'm really lucky, I might even have the C-cab built by then. Now, that really will be a blast! :devil3:


Woah boy!....here we go again...another schedule....after this house project, I thought I was going to be able to relax for a month.....there goes that idear....

Yep, your area sure does look good for cruisin and I'd like to check out the local rods also.


----------



## 123pugsy

It's been a busy month doing all kinds of different things.

The first thing was to spackle all the nail holes on the stair risers and get the treads masked off with Frog tape. It worked amazingly well, not allowing bleed thru as advertised. I'm not impressed much these days with products but this stuff is fantastic.

A coat of primer and two coats of BM's Simply White for the skirt boards and risers.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the spindles and handrails back and started installation.
Pics are of the swiveling Zip Bolts and the top strip that I used to screw down into the spindles.


----------



## 123pugsy

More handrail pics....


----------



## 123pugsy

I posted earlier that I made an error on the stairs. It's pretty minor. If you look closely, you can see as you go down the stairs, each picket is a different distance from the stair tread. The treads should have been 1/2" shorter.


----------



## 123pugsy

Of course, I need to change it up a bit or I will get bored stiff.

Myself and the young lad at work took turns beating on this poor piece of copper sheet.

After repeated blows it gets stiff and needs to be annealed to soften it up.
I had to do a bit more than anneal it where the young lad got a bit over zealous and stretched the sheet.


----------



## 123pugsy

Kitchen and bathroom sinks hooked up and working fine.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the front porch parts and then the fun begins. Man, do I hate painting. Especially when there are 160 pickets to do.

I had the boys make up some trays to paint them on and also use them to hang for drying.


----------



## 123pugsy

Porch cont'd.......fine painting in the candlelight during a power failure......ahhh....


----------



## 123pugsy

More porch railings.....


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the interior doors installed. 
I used these nifty install kits. They make installing a breeze.

I will take them down to get painted at a buddy's shop Monday.


----------



## 123pugsy

I haven't heard my sump pump come on since the eaves troughs were installed.

However, the Aluminum Dudes were back to do the front porch trough and down spouts so I believe the sump pump may come back to life soon.....


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I posted earlier that I made an error on the stairs. It's pretty minor. If you look closely, you can see as you go down the stairs, each picket is a different distance from the stair tread. The treads should have been 1/2" shorter.


You know Pugs...the first thing all your visitors are going to ask is who did such a crappy job with the spacing on those pickets. You DO know that don't you?

Look as I might, I could only see the tiniest difference, so I really don't think you have a whole lot to worry about. Besides, I promise I won't tell a soul. :devil3:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I haven't heard my sump pump come on since the eaves troughs were installed.
> 
> However, the Aluminum Dudes were back to do the front porch trough and down spouts so I believe the sump pump may come back to life soon.....


Your sump pump should be located within the confines of your house, right? With the eavestroughs, downpipes etc. in place, the water should - in theory anyway - be directed away from the house. So barring something unforeseen, the pump shouldn't need to run, should it?

Or are you expecting a source of water to invade your basement somehow?

I forgot to mention earlier that you've done a bang up job on all that stair work. I know first hand just what's involved there. Excellent work my friend. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Your sump pump should be located within the confines of your house, right? With the eavestroughs, downpipes etc. in place, the water should - in theory anyway - be directed away from the house. So barring something unforeseen, the pump shouldn't need to run, should it?
> 
> Or are you expecting a source of water to invade your basement somehow?
> 
> I forgot to mention earlier that you've done a bang up job on all that stair work. I know first hand just what's involved there. Excellent work my friend. :smile:


Thanks Keith.

Did you notice the two new down spouts dumping onto the ground beside the walls? 
These Bozos didn't even bother to turn them out beside the others.
One should be on the driveway and one should be turned out to the splash block.

It could not be more clear as the two they should have matched were already there.

The new ones were from the front porch done last week.
If they would have called, I would have gladly went and held their hands and babysat. I got home to find the job like this. :wacko:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Keith.
> 
> Did you notice the two new down spouts dumping onto the ground beside the walls?
> These Bozos didn't even bother to turn them out beside the others.
> One should be on the driveway and one should be turned out to the splash block.
> 
> It could not be more clear as the two they should have matched were already there.
> 
> The new ones were from the front porch done last week.
> If they would have called, I would have gladly went and held their hands and babysat. I got home to find the job like this. :wacko:


Actually, that's one of the first things I spotted. My first thought was why didn't they connect the two higher up and avoid having two downspouts land within such close proximity to each other. Although the pics don't quite show high enough, I figured the new spouts were from that porch roof.

It should be easy enough to run them out to where they belong. Although it really shouldn't be necessary for you to have to do it. Some people just don't think.


----------



## 123pugsy

The guy says joining them is asking for trouble and it's never done that way. He hasn't called for payment yet. He won't get it until it's done though.


----------



## ddawg16

And you will be in before winter......

You are making me feel bad about my project. Sidetracked on the front reface....and I'm out of town on business....hard to work on the house from afar. 

I'm off for almost 2 weeks at Christmas.....big push to get stuff done.

Pugs......one of these days we need to visit each other and have a few beers while we admire our work.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> The guy says joining them is asking for trouble and it's never done that way. He hasn't called for payment yet. He won't get it until it's done though.


I suppose that means there's a reason for this "trouble", although I don't know what it would be. If he's saying that you never join two downpipes together, that's not true. 

It might be somewhat more inconvenient, but certainly not impossible.

I think, under the circumstances, that they should simply finish the runs at the bottom. He will be happy, you will be happy and it's a win-win deal.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> And you will be in before winter......
> 
> You are making me feel bad about my project. Sidetracked on the front reface....and I'm out of town on business....hard to work on the house from afar.
> 
> I'm off for almost 2 weeks at Christmas.....big push to get stuff done.
> 
> Pugs......one of these days we need to visit each other and have a few beers while we admire our work.



Thanks.

Move in is the 28th of January, occupancy or not.

I'm off for 10 days in a row at Christmas also and it's my most productive time.

I'll have to drop by your place when I go for my cruise.
You drink beer, I'll have a Dr Pepper or Barq's.

I hit my 90,000 beer limit about 20 years ago, ha.....


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> I suppose that means there's a reason for this "trouble", although I don't know what it would be. If he's saying that you never join two downpipes together, that's not true.
> 
> It might be somewhat more inconvenient, but certainly not impossible.
> 
> I think, under the circumstances, that they should simply finish the runs at the bottom. He will be happy, you will be happy and it's a win-win deal.


He'll finish it. Two elbows and a piece of pipe for about grand, I can see him jumping all over his guys. 

And I sure hope the sump pump never runs again. That would be sweet.


----------



## Colbyt

Been a while since I told you how great it is looking. It is. Nice to see you haven't been slacking off. 

Picket painting award nominee!


----------



## drtbk4ever

123pugsy said:


> Of course, I need to change it up a bit or I will get bored stiff.
> 
> Myself and the young lad at work took turns beating on this poor piece of copper sheet.
> 
> After repeated blows it gets stiff and needs to be annealed to soften it up.
> I had to do a bit more than anneal it where the young lad got a bit over zealous and stretched the sheet.




That is simply spectacular. Do you have to do anything else to protect and preserve that colour?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## 123pugsy

drtbk4ever said:


> That is simply spectacular. Do you have to do anything else to protect and preserve that colour?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Thanks.
I have no idea.

I'm gonna leave it as a "live" finish and see what happens.


----------



## Paultergeist

Wow....just wow......

I am in awe of the vast knowledge and skills demonstrated within this comprehensive build thread.

Thank you for sharing this.


----------



## 123pugsy

Paultergeist said:


> Wow....just wow......
> 
> I am in awe of the vast knowledge and skills demonstrated within this comprehensive build thread.
> 
> Thank you for sharing this.


Thanks Paul.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Been a while since I told you how great it is looking. It is. Nice to see you haven't been slacking off.
> 
> Picket painting award nominee!


Thanks Colby.

Picket painter award, ha......I sure don't know how anyone can paint for a living. My hat's off to them. I find it so boring. Applying the paint is almost as bad as watching it dry.


----------



## user_12345a

really nice work. how close are you to moving in?


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> really nice work. how close are you to moving in?


Thanks.

January 21st.


----------



## Colbyt

Sorry. I know you wanted to be in for Christmas.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Sorry. I know you wanted to be in for Christmas.


Thanks, but that changed. My sister bought a new (old) house in the country and wanted to host dinner this year. Perfect.


----------



## 123pugsy

Black zinc base boards applied to the cabinet bases and s/s behind the stove.

Drawers just clear the dishwasher. Sure they do. What could go wrong? When water pipes hooked up, the dishwasher can't shove back the same distance?
Nah, just kiddin'...

The door clears the stove when pulled down. This is also a good thing.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the dryer moved downstairs to the laundry room.

A few pics of what I had to deal with before I started on the quest to close off every bit of spray foam so it could not be licked by flames in the event of a fire.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more....

Check the second and third pics. Now you see, now you don't, except in reverse order....


----------



## 123pugsy

I was dreading this project for the last year or so.

I found some 2x2's on the front porch which seemed to fit the bill nicely. 
A bit of drywall and some new duct work to shorten the flex pipes and that part done.


----------



## 123pugsy

Sump pump piping finished. I used a check valve a couple of unions so I could pop off the 90° section to access the pump.

I need to glue the screen onto the discharge pipe before a mouse finds the 6' deep swimming pool if he walks up the pipe and passes that last bend.


----------



## 123pugsy

Occupancy inspection is only hours away......:wink2:


----------



## Windows on Wash

Woot!!!!!!

Great job man. How long did all that drywall around that beam and mechanical take by the way? What a PITB.


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Woot!!!!!!
> 
> Great job man. How long did all that drywall around that beam and mechanical take by the way? What a PITB.


Thanks.

I just realized I forgot to make a gate at the window well. Oh well.
I don't think I can pop that off in an hour.

The drywall around the mechanical is not all of it. Sheet metal got involved also.
I spent about 3 weeks in that room. More to follow.


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the green light to move in.

The trap primer was not functioning at time of inspection.
He noted two showers were incomplete also, along with the back deck.

Everything else though, passed.

He will keep the permit open thankfully.
If I had to apply for another permit the city would have more than likely tried to extort some more property off me.


----------



## ddawg16

Congrats......believe me, I know how it feels...............


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Got the green light to move in.
> 
> The trap primer was not functioning at time of inspection.
> He noted two showers were incomplete also, along with the back deck.
> 
> Everything else though, passed.
> 
> He will keep the permit open thankfully.
> If I had to apply for another permit the city would have more than likely tried to extort some more property off me.


...more than likely??? Are you kidding, that's a cast iron guarantee. My bet is that they've already got enough out of you.

I bet you're tickled pink to get that lot behind you. Congratulations! :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> ...more than likely??? Are you kidding, that's a cast iron guarantee. My bet is that they've already got enough out of you.
> 
> I bet you're tickled pink to get that lot behind you. Congratulations! :smile:


Thanks.

They already got 400 square feet across the front of my lot.
It ended up cost them though.
I walked away with a cool 67 bucks because my lawyer charged that much less than the city issued for the fees.
I'm a bloody real estate tycoon,I am. Almost .17 cents a square foot.

Yep, glad that's done.

I also need to add 2" styrofoam to the top of the attic hatch door.


----------



## ddawg16

Are you already living in the house? Or did you have to wait for the 'blessing' to physically move in?


----------



## user_12345a

why do you have spray foam in a basement utility room ceiling? noise reduction?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Are you already living in the house? Or did you have to wait for the 'blessing' to physically move in?


Just finishing as much as possible before moving in.
Moving in Saturday.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> why do you have spray foam in a basement utility room ceiling? noise reduction?


Yep. Noise reduction, although they weren't supposed to do this room.
I got stuck with having to cover the mess.


----------



## Paultergeist

123pugsy said:


> .....
> They already got 400 square feet across the front of my lot.


 I have heard of this once before, but I still don't understand it. What is the basis for the local municipality taking land away from the plot during a remodel?

The situation I had encountered once before involved a guy wanting to do a kitchen remodel. "Sure," said the city....."but we will also need you to put in (and pay for) a sidewalk along the front of your lot line." Is your situation similar?


----------



## 123pugsy

Paultergeist said:


> I have heard of this once before, but I still don't understand it. What is the basis for the local municipality taking land away from the plot during a remodel?
> 
> The situation I had encountered once before involved a guy wanting to do a kitchen remodel. "Sure," said the city....."but we will also need you to put in (and pay for) a sidewalk along the front of your lot line." Is your situation similar?


It's extortion more or less.

They say "if you want a building permit, you sign over that much property to us"

It's that simple.

They asked for it when I wanted to build a carport and I told them to shove it. But the house was more important, so.......


----------



## 123pugsy

Paultergeist said:


> I have heard of this once before, but I still don't understand it. What is the basis for the local municipality taking land away from the plot during a remodel?
> 
> The situation I had encountered once before involved a guy wanting to do a kitchen remodel. "Sure," said the city....."but we will also need you to put in (and pay for) a sidewalk along the front of your lot line." Is your situation similar?



The basis is that it's part of the "official plan" for future road widening.


----------



## 123pugsy

Cardboard templates come in handy around all the pipes.


----------



## 123pugsy

More pics......


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash mentioned that if I put stainless on walls that I would have less to paint.
Man, did he get that right.


----------



## 123pugsy

I made up a flat dryer duct with a clean out in the center. It screws to the wall and just push the dryer exhaust port into the intake sleeve. Easy to pull the dryer out.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Its almost like I could see into the future.


----------



## user_12345a

123pugsy said:


> Yep. Noise reduction, although they weren't supposed to do this room.
> I got stuck with having to cover the mess.


did you get the whole house foamed?


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> did you get the whole house foamed?


Nope.

Both floors, rim joist areas and basement walls with 5 LB and both ceilings with 2 LB.

Safe and Sound on most interior walls and Roxul 6" on exterior walls.

R-50 loose fill in attic.


----------



## user_12345a

did you have to put anything extra on the exterior to meet code, or can you still get away with around r-20?

i've seem foam used on the outside.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> did you have to put anything extra on the exterior to meet code, or can you still get away with around r-20?
> 
> i've seem foam used on the outside.


6" Roxul meets code. Not sure what that value is.

Internet is now hooked up and the networking is working.
Oh yeah.......:vs_karate:

Magic number is one....


----------



## 123pugsy

Got moved in yesterday. :vs_karate: 8° Celsius weather. What luck.

I have an annoying pop/creak sound right above my office. It happens quite often. I sure hope I can get used to it.............. or, I gotta move......

Anyone else got a sound like this that happens every ten minutes or so?
Settling? Shrinkage?

Or should I call Ghostbusters?


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> 6" Roxul meets code. Not sure what that value is.


6" of Roxul is R-22. Been using it since it first came out in B.C.many years ago. For 2 x 4 walls it is R-14.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Got moved in yesterday. :vs_karate: 8° Celsius weather. What luck.
> 
> I have an annoying pop/creak sound right above my office. It happens quite often. I sure hope I can get used to it.............. or, I gotta move......
> 
> Anyone else got a sound like this that happens every ten minutes or so?
> Settling? Shrinkage?
> 
> Or should I call Ghostbusters?


Is there a heating duct or hot water line there?


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Is there a heating duct or hot water line there?


Not exactly sure where it's coming from, but in the office, there are about 4 ducts going thru the wall to my right, DWV stack thru the wall in front of me and a stainless steel laundry chute inside a stick out column/wall to my left.

Oh yeah, I don't think the noise will be leaving the building, ha....


----------



## cocobolo

Well then, you certainly have several choices as to where the noise is coming from.

I would suggest earmuffs. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Well then, you certainly have several choices as to where the noise is coming from.
> 
> I would suggest earmuffs. :smile:


Thanks.

Been sitting here about 15 minutes w/o a peep. 
Maybe it's taking a break.


----------



## ddawg16

I have one of those pops in my master bedroom. It's the metal duct. It's solid duct for about 8'. So I'm pretty sure it's expanding when it heats up...then cooling. Popping starts shortly after the heat comes on....then stops. When it goes off....clicking for a few min...then it stops.

However, in your case, maybe you have 'something' living in there.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I have one of those pops in my master bedroom. It's the metal duct. It's solid duct for about 8'. So I'm pretty sure it's expanding when it heats up...then cooling. Popping starts shortly after the heat comes on....then stops. When it goes off....clicking for a few min...then it stops.
> 
> However, in your case, maybe you have 'something' living in there.


Now that you mention this, I've heard this one before with ducts.
Definitely not that. More like a pop/creak sound blended together, one only at a time with about five minutes between was the shortest. Been a while now....maybe tonight to scare the bajeebers outta me.... :surprise:

Edit, I spoke too soon. Twice in a row.


----------



## Colbyt

Life must be good again if you have time to sit and listen.


----------



## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Life must be good again if you have time to sit and listen.


Nope. The double tap I heard was only minutes apart and then back to work.

I need to figure out the next project while I'm waiting on my baseboards to be painted.

Need to dry pack the basement washroom and tile.
Really not looking forward to this. I've only done a bit before.


----------



## ddawg16

But now that you are living in the house, a lot of those projects are easier....well....almost.....

The rains were so bad here yesterday I couldn't do much. I'm trying to finish up some wood doors for the upstairs vanity and it was so humid the stain is not dry enough for the clear coat.....oh well, I had plenty of beer....it was kind of a nice change to relax for once.


----------



## LP560

I always like seeing things like this come together


----------



## 123pugsy

Noise is caused by running water in upstairs washroom.
Not the supply. The drain pipes.

I filled the sink, no noise. I pulled the cork and noise started. :surprise:

The ABS must be expanding/contracting close to the framing or at one of my supports. DOH!


----------



## 123pugsy

More laundry room pics.... humidifier installed. Aprilaire 700M. The drain filled this bucket in short order. The worst thing is I had to hook up hot water as I only had the air return side to install it on available. Of course the control that came with it didn't work, so I used a simple manual job for 20 bucks or so. This control works perfectly.


----------



## cocobolo

Explain that to me...where is all that water coming from? Is that humidifier or a DEhumidifier that you have there?

The humidifier puts water into the air, the dehumidifier does the opposite.

An air to air heat exchanger (think they use another name for that these days) does the same thing. Collects water out of the air and you need to drain it off somewhere.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Explain that to me...where is all that water coming from? Is that humidifier or a DEhumidifier that you have there?
> 
> The humidifier puts water into the air, the dehumidifier does the opposite.
> 
> An air to air heat exchanger (think they use another name for that these days) does the same thing. Collects water out of the air and you need to drain it off somewhere.


That's coming out the drain tube as it runs.
This is not the type with a rotating sponge wheel and a float.
Continuous flowing water as it operates up to humidity set point.
Furnace energizes the control. Control opens solenoid and energizes fan.
Water (hot) dribbles thru a filter and the fan blows it into the duct work.


----------



## 123pugsy

Installed some cheap baseboard and casings in the utility room and under stairs storage room.
Primed MDF which will probably stay that way until the next owners paint them.


----------



## 123pugsy

I told the wife, only the kids will be able to pick paint colors as her taste is a little off the wall. But, she insisted on purple for her office. OK.

My son picked the HD orange and the daughter chose the blue.
So when you go up the stairs, three rooms look like Easter eggs, ha.....


----------



## 123pugsy

Of course the green I picked for the master bedroom is a correct choice, ha....

It went on so well, I had a whole gallon left over so I hit the basement bedroom with it.


----------



## 123pugsy

Had to pick up something from HD, so I sparked up the ol pickup and cruised.
Sweet....I love driving this truck.


----------



## 123pugsy

I made up some air return grills and a grill for the top of the fridge to close the gap.
I blacked out the wall cavities with a spray bomb for a better look.


----------



## 123pugsy

Back to the laundry room.
Got the sink installed and the table that covers the washer and dryer.
The clothes from the laundry chute drop right onto the table.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few pics of the stairs and flooring with all the cardboard removed. Took a long time to see how they would look uncovered.

This is a day or two after we moved in and the place is a mess.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the basement painted before we moved in.
Just needs baseboards and casings.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> That's coming out the drain tube as it runs.
> This is not the type with a rotating sponge wheel and a float.
> Continuous flowing water as it operates up to humidity set point.
> Furnace energizes the control. Control opens solenoid and energizes fan.
> Water (hot) dribbles thru a filter and the fan blows it into the duct work.


That seems like an awful lot of hot water to be going down the drain as it were. 

I have hooked all our air handlers from the heat pump up to drains. The amount of water they produce is extremely minimal. The fellow that sold us the system says he has never seen as much as a liter a day come out of any of the typical house systems.

I wonder if you shouldn't hook that line into a drain. Washing machine drain perhaps?


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Installed some cheap baseboard and casings in the utility room and under stairs storage room.
> Primed MDF which will probably stay that way until the next owners paint them.


That looks pretty good...where did you pick it up? And what did it cost you?

I'm finally ready to put the first baseboard down in the bedroom & closet.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I told the wife, only the kids will be able to pick paint colors as her taste is a little off the wall. But, she insisted on purple for her office. OK.
> 
> My son picked the HD orange and the daughter chose the blue.
> So when you go up the stairs, three rooms look like Easter eggs, ha.....


It takes kids awhile to learn that what looks OK on a paint chart looks ten times darker when it hits a wall.

Your wife's colour looks almost identical to the lavender that Val has on the bottom half of her closet. Good choice!

As for that green...I better not say anything! :surprise:


----------



## cocobolo

Don't throw all that cardboard away. You'll need it for when you start to fill up the basement with car parts. You should at least make that much effort...you know...keep the wife happy and all. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> That seems like an awful lot of hot water to be going down the drain as it were.
> 
> I have hooked all our air handlers from the heat pump up to drains. The amount of water they produce is extremely minimal. The fellow that sold us the system says he has never seen as much as a liter a day come out of any of the typical house systems.
> 
> I wonder if you shouldn't hook that line into a drain. Washing machine drain perhaps?


It's hooked up to the drain now.
I was just showing the wasted water.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> That looks pretty good...where did you pick it up? And what did it cost you?
> 
> I'm finally ready to put the first baseboard down in the bedroom & closet.


HD has 10 packs of the casing for 30 bucks. It was cheaper to buy the 10 than the six I needed I believe.
The base is 5-1/2'' x 1/2" and was a special buy recently for under 9 bucks a stick, 8' long. You would have to check your store.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> It takes kids awhile to learn that what looks OK on a paint chart looks ten times darker when it hits a wall.
> 
> Your wife's colour looks almost identical to the lavender that Val has on the bottom half of her closet. Good choice!
> 
> As for that green...I better not say anything! :surprise:


I like the blue. Can't stand the orange and purple though, but who cares, it's only paint.
If it were tiles, well that's something different altogether.

BTW, never paint orange. Three coats and it still didn't cover 100%.
It also ran at the top where the roller stopped almost all the way around the room. 
What a nightmare.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Don't throw all that cardboard away. You'll need it for when you start to fill up the basement with car parts. You should at least make that much effort...you know...keep the wife happy and all. :smile:


Did you miss the posts about the free shed earlier in the thread?
It will hold a ton of parts once all the shelving goes in. :wink2:
Post 38:

http://www.diychatroom.com/f49/total-house-rebuild-bungalow-two-storey-276978/index3/

Amazingly, the door gaps are still good and functioning, so I don't think it's moved yet. It's going thru it's second winter now, so we'll see what the spring holds.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> It's hooked up to the drain now.
> I was just showing the wasted water.


Roger that. Is there any way for you to reduce the amount of waste?


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> HD has 10 packs of the casing for 30 bucks. It was cheaper to buy the 10 than the six I needed I believe.
> The base is 5-1/2'' x 1/2" and was a special buy recently for under 9 bucks a stick, 8' long. You would have to check your store.


That's a bargain and a half! Going in to town this morning, so I will see what kind of a deal they have on today. At least it is 10% off today. Actually, we have befriended one of the ladies in the contractor department, and because we buy so much there, she always gives us 10% off regardless of whether it is a 10% week or not. Saves us quite a bundle.

That 5 1/2" baseboard looks really good, much better than the smaller ones.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I like the blue. Can't stand the orange and purple though, but who cares, it's only paint.
> If it were tiles, well that's something different altogether.
> 
> BTW, never paint orange. Three coats and it still didn't cover 100%.
> It also ran at the top where the roller stopped almost all the way around the room.
> What a nightmare.


Hah, so you're learning the hard way about paint coverage.

Somewhere around 1,000 years ago I used to have a sign shop. It didn't take me long to figure out which colours covered and which didn't. I'm somewhat surprised that the orange didn't cover, especially after three coats.

Although having said that, it is the orange - red - magenta shades that frequently don't cover well. With almost any colour these days, you need to mix the paint carefully and completely right before you apply it. From experience, I can tell you that the tints that they put in the paints will fall out of the paint starting almost as soon as it is mixed. Just using a paint stick works fine.

Now, as to the paint running down the wall, that suggests two things. Too much paint on the roller, and possibly the wrong technique. NEVER run a fresh roller right up the wall first. Do a "W" type pattern in the middle of the wall, this is to get the bulk of the paint out of the roller and onto the wall. Then go back and cover the wall. When that is done, continue rolling until you hear a hissing sound from the roller. Now you have an even coat on your wall. It isn't a thick coat, but it is even.

Brushing the top and bottom of the walls and picking up any extra paint that you have there will eliminate any runs.

What shows with these reddish hues is an uneven application where some of the paint is thicker than in other spots. Oddly enough, even a true white paint is subject to this uneven coverage as well. We have been using two white sealer undercoats, then two white topcoats and then the wall colour after that, again two coats. We don't expect to have to paint again for at least ten years.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Hah, so you're learning the hard way about paint coverage...........................................................
> ......................................................................................................................
> 
> ............ We don't expect to have to paint again for at least ten years.


In ten years, I'll be block sanding the top of that wall to get the lumps out, ha...

I have no problems with my technique, but will need to change it up a bit for the next bad colour....wait a minute....I won't have to. I've already outlawed certain colours from our household colour selection chart. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the garage cleaned up and the rod on the hoist so I could get the chop saw set up for the big casing/baseboards/pediment project.

Snapped a few pics underneath while I was there. I haven't seen the bottom of the poor baby in about two years....


----------



## 123pugsy

A lot of cutting to make up all the pediments for every door and window.
Doors double up the quantity. I don't like doors.... lain:


----------



## 123pugsy

Got some sliding doors for the closets and got them installed.

Renin brand.
Rollers were making a nice ka..ka...ka..ka...sound and I got complaints from the wife and kids that they were too hard to roll.
I had to contact the manufacturer and they sent out new wheels. They are rolling fine now but what a PITA. Rumor has it they are sending me a gift card for a hunert bucks for my troubles.

Still waiting for the new guide pins that were broken.
3 out of 4 were broken but I used the bits anyways. 

Don't like the huge universal plates they supply.
I used some patina liquid to turn them grey/black followed with a clear coat. They look much better now.


----------



## 123pugsy

Did I mention we have the coldest water around?

Had to insulate the water meter and pipes. Water was running down the brand new drywall...:surprise:


----------



## 123pugsy

I ordered up a coping foot for my jigsaw. 

Did a little practicing before the real thing started.


----------



## 123pugsy

First floor painting all done.

And of course the all important interior door spray foaming....


----------



## jlhaslip

Did you notice any of the door jambs bowing inward from the spray foam?

I think I would've done the spray foam before the paint in case I made a mess cleaning it up.


----------



## user_12345a

123pugsy said:


> More laundry room pics.... humidifier installed. Aprilaire 700M. The drain filled this bucket in short order. The worst thing is I had to hook up hot water as I only had the air return side to install it on available. Of course the control that came with it didn't work, so I used a simple manual job for 20 bucks or so. This control works perfectly.


If you read the instructions of the humidistat, you'll likely see that it has to be mounted at least 12" or more upstream of the humidifier to be accurate.

50% is too high for winter. the dewpoint has to be below the coldest interior surfaces.

25 to 40% is good.

If you did a good job done on the house - which i'm sure did based on the pictures, the humidifier may not even be necessary. the moisture from showering and cooking is enough to maintain the moisture.

They get automatically installed out of habit when construction practices have radically changed since the 1980s - sealed combustion furnaces, continuous exterior tyvec air barriers (vs none or using tar-paper), no open fireplace chimney, tighter construction.

What did you end up doing with the hrv controls?

if it's being controlled by a dehumidistat, the humidifier at a 50% will keep the hrv running at a high speed and over-ventilate. You won't notice it until you get your utility bills.


----------



## 123pugsy

jlhaslip said:


> Did you notice any of the door jambs bowing inward from the spray foam?
> 
> I think I would've done the spray foam before the paint in case I made a mess cleaning it up.


I never thought of it and yes, I will be touching up the paint in several places, ha. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> If you read the instructions of the humidistat, you'll likely see that it has to be mounted at least 12" or more upstream of the humidifier to be accurate.
> 
> 50% is too high for winter. the dewpoint has to be below the coldest interior surfaces.
> 
> 25 to 40% is good.
> 
> If you did a good job done on the house - which i'm sure did based on the pictures, the humidifier may not even be necessary. the moisture from showering and cooking is enough to maintain the moisture.
> 
> They get automatically installed out of habit when construction practices have radically changed since the 1980s - sealed combustion furnaces, continuous exterior tyvec air barriers (vs none or using tar-paper), no open fireplace chimney, tighter construction.
> 
> What did you end up doing with the hrv controls?
> 
> if it's being controlled by a dehumidistat, the humidifier at a 50% will keep the hrv running at a high speed and over-ventilate. You won't notice it until you get your utility bills.


The humidistat is working fine. I had it set to 35 but dialed it down to 30 to stop the condensation on the water meter. That worked and gave me the chance to tape it up while it's dry. I will get it back to 35% as I feel a bit itchy.

HRV is on a timer. 15 minutes on/15 minutes off.
I'm sure it will overlap with furnace run time some of those times. I really don't care much about it though.

Although we do get some pretty wicked fumes from the MIL every now and then. Perhaps I should leave it 24/7, ha..... :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

jlhaslip said:


> Did you notice any of the door jambs bowing inward from the spray foam?
> 
> I think I would've done the spray foam before the paint in case I made a mess cleaning it up.


One top bent down a wee bit in the middle.


----------



## user_12345a

> HRV is on a timer. 15 minutes on/15 minutes off.
> I'm sure it will overlap with furnace run time some of those times. I really don't care much about it though.


Yah, that's really not a efficient way to run it utility wise, as it's not providing any ventilation without the furnace fan on.

there's also a risk of over-ventilating, increasing humidifier use and gas bills.

if you're happy with it i guess it's fine. kind of a waste of good equipment.

the humidistat will always work btw anywhere, just a question of accuracy if it's too close and picking up moisture from the humidifier output. that can happen even upstream, they recommend a greater distance.


----------



## 123pugsy

Baseboard installation is moving along slowly. Back breaking labour.
I won't be using base shoe in the walk in or other bedroom closets.


----------



## cocobolo

It may be tough work, but just look at the difference it makes in the appearance of any room. That is truly beautiful.

Next thing, the missus will be wanting crown moulding in her closets! :surprise:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> It may be tough work, but just look at the difference it makes in the appearance of any room. That is truly beautiful.
> 
> Next thing, the missus will be wanting crown moulding in her closets! :surprise:


Thanks.

Crown molding??
Na, never happen. I have invoked Martial law here regarding design.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the upstairs bedrooms done last week and the rec room 99% done this weekend. Can you tell I'm holding off on furniture still? :smile:

Just the bedroom in the basement left, which I will do next weekend.
In the meantime, I need to put together an order for the main floor bead boards, baseboards, and casings.

Also need to start laying down Kerdi membrane in the upstairs washroom or dry pack in the basement washroom.
Hmm,....... which one of these fun projects should I do next? :vs_worry:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Also need to start laying down Kerdi membrane in the upstairs washroom or dry pack in the basement washroom.
> Hmm,....... which one of these fun projects should I do next? :vs_worry:


My suggestion for your next project...

A week in the sun laying on a nice warm beach in Hawaii! :devil3:


----------



## jlhaslip

Or possibly Florida


----------



## Gary in WA

Looks nice! Moving right along... will you be adding any cove moulding under each tread and under the stair skirt board? Or is it painted white... Or any on top the stair kick to match an old house look?

Gary


----------



## 123pugsy

Gary in WA said:


> Looks nice! Moving right along... will you be adding any cove moulding under each tread and under the stair skirt board? Or is it painted white... Or any on top the stair kick to match an old house look?
> 
> Gary


Thanks.

Yes, I will be adding a molding.
I don't think a cove. Is that what was used? 

If cove, was the back self returned?
That's a lot of work I don't mind missing.


----------



## 123pugsy

Gary in WA said:


> Looks nice! Moving right along... will you be adding any cove moulding under each tread and under the stair skirt board? Or is it painted white... Or any on top the stair kick to match an old house look?
> 
> Gary


Thanks.

I ordered 5/8" cove for under the treads. I would have liked to use 3/4" but I only ended up with 1-1/8" nose and the 3/4" is too close to the front edge.

I don't need to self return them. I tried a piece of scrap pine and found I can use the router table to cove the end making it look like a self return.

I won't be adding any under the skirt boards as there is no gap that can be seen. It is painted white with a finished edge.

I don't understand the last place you mention.


----------



## Gary in WA

Looks better! I'll try to get a pic of my neighbors 1905 original stairs for you...

Gary


----------



## 123pugsy

At last, a project which was a little bit fun.
I got the skirt board installed going up the stairs.

I made a sizing error installing the stairs so I had to sand 1/8" off the backs of the base boards which are on top of the skirt boards. Thankfully, it's unnoticeable.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got some pediments installed. The white contrasts nicely against the grey and green.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the aprons cut and glued all the self returns for all the windows.
Brushed a little touch up paint on the corners.


----------



## 123pugsy

I need to use plinth blocks for my baseboard/casing connection because of all the thickness created using bead board panels. I don't like any of the ones I found in the stores or on line, so I made up my own.


----------



## 123pugsy

Weather is getting better, so it's time to build the deck.
I got the transit out to locate the heights for the Maine deck brackets.

Forty 1/2" holes and forty wedge anchors to knock in. Doesn't make for a pleasant day.

I made up a little hole marking jig. Used a transfer punch to mark the holes and give a little dimple for the drill bit.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking good man. You are talented my friend. 

Happy Easter.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I need to use plinth blocks for my baseboard/casing connection because of all the thickness created using bead board panels. I don't like any of the ones I found in the stores or on line, so I made up my own.


I guess this is what you get when a stainless steel guy gets let loose on wood! Can't believe the incredible job that you are doing Pugsy.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Weather is getting better, so it's time to build the deck.
> I got the transit out to locate the heights for the Maine deck brackets.
> 
> Forty 1/2" holes and forty wedge anchors to knock in. Doesn't make for a pleasant day.
> 
> I made up a little hole marking jig. Used a transfer punch to mark the holes and give a little dimple for the drill bit.


I take it that these are some sort of stand off bracket to hold a joist of some kind, is that right?

What will you be using for your deck framing?


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Looking good man. You are talented my friend.
> 
> Happy Easter.


Thanks.

Happy Easter to you too.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> I take it that these are some sort of stand off bracket to hold a joist of some kind, is that right?
> 
> What will you be using for your deck framing?


Yes. They are called Maine Deck Brackets out of, Maine, I guess.
No ledger board up against the wall. That just goes against my grain.

Beams are PT, double 2 x10's and joists are 2x8's at 12"


----------



## 123pugsy

The post brackets were all dead level except for one which was an 1/8" different.
Would have been nice to have this kind of accuracy on the foundation.

6x6 posts, notched out for the beams. Two 1/2" thru bolts installed.


----------



## 123pugsy

Life wouldn't be good if the Bozos at Lowes didn't give you interesting events to make your day.


----------



## sleepyg

Not good!


----------



## jlhaslip

It looks like it will buff out okay... LOL

That's what you get for hiring $15 per hour help.


----------



## 123pugsy

jlhaslip said:


> It looks like it will buff out okay... LOL
> 
> That's what you get for hiring $15 per hour help.


The manager called. I need to get him an estimate and collect some coin off him.
He mentioned about taking it out in lumber...hmmm.....


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the joists down last week and started on the rim boards and posts this weekend.


----------



## 123pugsy

A few more pics......


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the boards in place to screw the pickets onto. I'm outta wood until tomorrow.
I left the top cap at the stairs long as I still need to figure out how to finish that area.

The hardest part is always fitting the tiniest pieces. Go figure.....


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Yes. They are called Maine Deck Brackets out of, Maine, I guess.
> No ledger board up against the wall. That just goes against my grain.
> 
> Beams are PT, double 2 x10's and joists are 2x8's at 12"


Yes, a ledger right against the wall, especially masonry of any kind, is more or less asking for trouble. You can use the 40 year P.T. rated lumber - if you can find it - but it's still best to keep it even a small distance off the wall so that water won't accumulate.

I think those brackets are a real trick. Haven't seen them before.


----------



## cocobolo

jlhaslip said:


> It looks like it will buff out okay... LOL
> 
> That's what you get for hiring $15 per hour help.


When did they get the raise????? :wink2:


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> The manager called. I need to get him an estimate and collect some coin off him.
> He mentioned about taking it out in lumber...hmmm.....


Would you care for me to come up with an estimate? Seems to me that could easily run into several thousand dollars.

First remove the truck bed...install a new one...repaint the entire vehicle. I think the transmission could be damaged from that violent impact, so there's another $3,000. Plus the new pin striping that you wanted on the truck anyway. So, I'd say we're right in the vicinity of $10k, give or take a couple of bucks.

If you take it out in lumber, you want double the cost of the damage. That's the approximate markup they have.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Would you care for me to come up with an estimate? Seems to me that could easily run into several thousand dollars.
> 
> First remove the truck bed...install a new one...repaint the entire vehicle. I think the transmission could be damaged from that violent impact, so there's another $3,000. Plus the new pin striping that you wanted on the truck anyway. So, I'd say we're right in the vicinity of $10k, give or take a couple of bucks.
> 
> If you take it out in lumber, you want double the cost of the damage. That's the approximate markup they have.



Nice estimate. Remind me never to run into your car when I'm driving around. My insurance company can't afford you, ha.......

So far, a new aftermarket gate is $387.00
Of course there is delivery and paint after that.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Nice estimate. Remind me never to run into your car when I'm driving around. My insurance company can't afford you, ha.......
> 
> So far, a new aftermarket gate is $387.00
> Of course there is delivery and paint after that.


OK then...that's about right.

Gate $387.

Delivery $1,843.

Paint, House of Kolor (for the whole truck) wet sanding etc. etc. $7,770.

Total $10,000.


----------



## 123pugsy

I made up 5 stringers for the main stairs.
2X12 pressure treated. All cuts sealed up.

I bolted on a 2x12 hanger board for the Simpson stringer straps.
I love the Simpson screws. No banging of nails that would screw up the whole works.

I bent up a stainless steel vermin shield at work and screwed/buried it in place.


----------



## 123pugsy

Cleaning up the garage is always good until it's time to drive away and the keys aren't in your pocket. No worries, they're in there somewhere......:surprise:


----------



## 123pugsy

Second stairs, railings, vermin shields in place.
I laid down 4 patio stones for these stairs.
Eventually it will require a poured pad but until the settling around the foundation is complete, no point.


----------



## 123pugsy

I guess getting the boat out of the backyard would be nice...
I took off 1" from the deck width but added 3-1/2" by bolting the posts outboard for a bigger deck. Uh-oh...


----------



## 123pugsy

I had to add 2" Styrofoam to the attic hatch, since I was calling the inspector to look at the deck framing. Got the trap primer in the basement working as well, so that's off the list as well.

Everything passed. I can call for my occupancy after I get the pickets, decking and two handrails installed. The 2x6 handrails in the pics do not qualify.

I also need to get the window grates done and dropped in place.

Sod has been delayed because of the rain the last two days. It was booked for yesterday.


----------



## 123pugsy

A strong wind came by and flipped the shed over.

Nah, we flipped it over to destroy it. Surprised in never did get moved by high winds in 16 years without being screwed down.

Sod needs to be laid in that corner. I now just have the one new shed.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I had to add 2" Styrofoam to the attic hatch, since I was calling the inspector to look at the deck framing. Got the trap primer in the basement working as well, so that's off the list as well.
> 
> Everything passed. I can call for my occupancy after I get the pickets, decking and two handrails installed. The 2x6 handrails in the pics do not qualify.
> 
> I also need to get the window grates done and dropped in place.
> 
> Sod has been delayed because of the rain the last two days. It was booked for yesterday.


What's wrong with the 2 x 6 handrails?


----------



## Yodaman

cocobolo said:


> What's wrong with the 2 x 6 handrails?



My guess is they serve as a guard rail but not a actual hand rail required on stairs.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> What's wrong with the 2 x 6 handrails?


It can't be grabbed well.

OBC:
9.8.7.5. Ergonomic Design
(1) A clearance of not less than 50 mm shall be provided
between a handrail and any surface behind it.
(2) All handrails shall be constructed so as to be
continually graspable along their entire length with no
obstruction on or above them to break a handhold, except
where the handrail is interrupted by newels at changes in
direction.


----------



## 123pugsy

Yodaman said:


> My guess is they serve as a guard rail but not a actual hand rail required on stairs.


Yep. That's it.

And since my step father comes over sometimes, it doesn't hurt to have a good one installed. He's pushing 91 now.


----------



## VirginiaMark

We have that same Hand Rail code in Northern Virginia.


----------



## cocobolo

I see, so some government nitwit doesn't like the terminology we use. 

Your guardrails are just that, guardrails. Handrails are more for use in going up and down stairs I think.

For many years I built decks out here in B.C. during the few days of summer that we occasionally got. One of the standard rail systems we used to use was a vertically mounted (on edge) 2 x 6 which was held in place by a continual row of vertical 2 x 2's not exceeding 4" apart.

I agree that you can't actually wrap your hand right around the entire 2 x 6, but in the real world it was more than adequate for the intended purpose.

The house here has a 2 x 6 on the flat mounted on 4 x 4 posts about every 7 feet or so. It has tempered glass below the 2 x 6. And I will say that there are many houses locally with similar handrails/guardrails.

It would be interesting to see a copy of the building code going back about 50 years or so and compare it to the code of today. I think the first one I bought was dated 1977 and it was a very small book.


----------



## BigJim

There is a similar code here also, I saw where one ole fellow who solved the problem by leaving the 2x6 rail as is, and mounted a round rail spaced 1 inch above the 2x6 rail, it passed ok and doesn't look too bad.


----------



## cocobolo

There has been a move afoot over the past several years towards a Universal Building Code. Whether or not this is a good thing I don't know. 

On the basic building stuff I think it's a good idea. But when it comes to specialty items in vastly different climate areas, then I think it may fall down.

It used to be that building inspectors had considerable discretionary powers and could allow things that made good common sense. Nowadays, it seems that there is a rule for every little item and no room for creativity.

But if you are an architect, or an engineer, you can do what you like. Why? Because the responsibility then falls on your shoulders for safety, rather than the local building department. Once the onus falls elsewhere, the local building department is cleared of any liability. It seems that it's all about a $ these days. As long as the local authority can't get sued, they are happy.


----------



## BigJim

It is really strange how things change over the years, back in the middle 1700s and before, hand rails were only about 2 feet tall and door ways were only about 5 foot tall, people were a lot shorter back then for some reason, fact.


----------



## cocobolo

BigJim said:


> It is really strange how things change over the years, back in the middle 1700s and before, hand rails were only about 2 feet tall and door ways were only about 5 foot tall, people were a lot shorter back then for some reason, fact.


And the average lifespan was something closer to 35 years! Now it's in the mid 70's. :surprise:


----------



## Yodaman

BigJim said:


> It is really strange how things change over the years, back in the middle 1700s and before, hand rails were only about 2 feet tall and door ways were only about 5 foot tall, people were a lot shorter back then for some reason, fact.




Steroids and hormones in our meat, or maybe just malnutrition.


----------



## 123pugsy

I did manage to get the boat out.

About 2" clearance on one side and 3" on the other.
It sure won't be easy to put back in in reverse when it was hard enough driving it out forward.
I got it stored at a friend's house.

Sod was supposed to come last Monday but it rained all week.
Not bad today, but the Sod Dude has not called.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the decking down.
Just need to cover the steps and risers now.


----------



## 123pugsy

Things have slowed down because we had 3 days of solid rain and also because I hosted the Hogtown Metalshaping Meet this weekend at my work.

I thought I would shape my copper back splash while waiting for the fellas to show up.

The psychedelic colors are after heating it up. This served two purposes. One was it gave it the psychedelic colors and two, it shrunk a lot of the overstretched areas.

I put it thru the rolling machine to get some lumps out. It flattened out quite a bit.

The last two pics show how much stretch I had to put into it. It grew nearly 3/8" in length.
It's beside the sheet that I cut it from.


----------



## cocobolo

That's pretty cool there pugsy!

What do you use for heat? Propane...oxy-acetylene...matches? Just kidding on the last one. :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> That's pretty cool there pugsy!
> 
> What do you use for heat? Propane...oxy-acetylene...matches? Just kidding on the last one. :devil3:


Thanks.
O/A gas.

Not sure if I will keep the colour or give them some patina juice.
The one behind the stove is being held in place by a piece of painters tape now and easily removable for fine tuning.
I think I will take the stove one down and squeeze it in the brake press to get it flatter. This panel came out to the correct wrinklage.

Also need to colour match the stove panel. When I looked at at, I noticed the psychedelic-ness is not quite the same.


Now that I have some wrinklage experience, can I do two whole shower pans? Maybe stainless would be the fastest, sure fire, leak free way to go.....


----------



## cocobolo

Given your expertise with SS, wouldn't that be the way to go for you?


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Given your expertise with SS, wouldn't that be the way to go for you?


It sure would be the smart way to go.

But, a lot of guys have not accused me of not being stupid, in the past.


----------



## 123pugsy

Some more pics from the metal shaping meet:


----------



## 123pugsy

Treads, risers and hand rails installed today.

Just the skirting left....this could take a couple years yet before I feel like it....lain:


----------



## 123pugsy

And the other end....


----------



## 123pugsy

I installed the trim around the attic hatch a few days ago. The rain led to this job as I couldn't work outside. I would probably have left it for weeks or months otherwise.


----------



## 123pugsy

OK, back to the deck.

I got the stainless steel grills out, powder coated, and installed.
No screws in the pics but they are screwed in place now. The one under the door needed to be pounded in. I then had to cut the back rim off the top flange as there was no space for it. (The top is a separate piece)

I can call for occupancy inspection now.


----------



## 123pugsy

The Sod Dudes rolled up yesterday and did their thing.
Looks like 300 rolls on the pallets.


----------



## 123pugsy

More pics.............


----------



## jlhaslip

Glad to see you hired it out.
Sod can be a bad case of the Physicals.
Hard on us old guys.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looking awesome man. You gonna keep the grass out of that stone?


----------



## 123pugsy

Windows on Wash said:


> Looking awesome man. You gonna keep the grass out of that stone?


Thanks.

Which stone? There is stone under two decks and stones at the sump discharge.

No matter. or now, I don't want grass in any of the stone areas. In a couple years, I won't care anymore, what is growing where, more than likely.


----------



## wagoner

That yard came out great.


----------



## ddawg16

Looks so nice and green.

Not trying to make you feel bad....but....my grass stays green all year round.....well....almost....we don't get rain for 6 months in the summer...so it gets a little dull


----------



## lenaitch

ddawg16 said:


> Looks so nice and green.
> 
> Not trying to make you feel bad....but....my grass stays green all year round.....well....almost....we don't get rain for 6 months in the summer...so it gets a little dull


This has been a good Spring for establishing new grass in Pugsy's part of the world. Actually, grass around here only 'goes dull' here in the winter, but you can't tell if it's covered in snow (which isn't always a sure thing in his area the past few years).


----------



## 123pugsy

Excellent rain this spring. Apparently, some kind or rain record for these parts so I got lucky.

Good thing because I got the whole family coming Saturday for a BBQ.

This beauty grass won't last long. The boat will be back in a couple of weeks and parked on the front lawn all summer.
Then, I'll start getting lazy again and won't water it.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Excellent rain this spring. Apparently, some kind or rain record for these parts so I got lucky.
> 
> Good thing because I got the whole family coming Saturday for a BBQ.
> 
> This beauty grass won't last long. The boat will be back in a couple of weeks and parked on the front lawn all summer.
> Then, I'll start getting lazy again and won't water it.


That's why God invented rain. I figure that if you leave it to nature's devices it helps the grass build character.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> That's why God invented rain. I figure that if you leave it to nature's devices it helps the grass build character.


If I leave it to my devices, it will grow bald spots, ha...


----------



## 123pugsy

A couple weeks later and the rain and sprinkling has paid off.


----------



## 123pugsy

Occupancy passed.
Only the downstairs and upstairs showers were listed as incomplete on the report.

In between the lawn care time, I got the back doors in operation.
Double french doors don't have good security so I got some slide bolts.

Sliding the bolt into hardwood flooring wouldn't do, so I got myself a chunk of brass bar to mount the striker plates to.

I dunked the bar into a bottle of patina juice and followed up with flat clear lacquer.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next thing to tackle is the downstairs washroom.
I picked up a few sacks of dry pack mix to build up the floor about an inch.

Despite all my efforts to get the W/C pipe cut level, the flange end up a wee bit crooked. Worse thing is I may need to use wax instead of my favorite sponges....man do I hate wax seals after using the sponge.
More on this later when I try to install the toilet.

I started will pieces of lumber cut to the exact hgt required at each corner. These were used as screed guides for the leveling.
I found a nice piece of 3" x 1-1/2" tube at work that was nice and straight.

It came out OK, but not perfect.


----------



## 123pugsy

Floor tiles next.


----------



## 123pugsy

Next was taping the gaps in the Dense shield using Kerdiband and thinset.

Two coats of Redguard covers it all up.

No More Nails and pieces of foil tape held the tile ends in place really well.


----------



## 123pugsy

So why does the last post show the shower tiles ready to go and this post show wall tiles going up?

DOH!
I mixed the wrong type of thinset. I was supposed to mix modified to go over the Redguard.
I double checked and discovered this while I was waiting for it to "flash" or whatever it's called when waiting 5 minutes.


----------



## 123pugsy

Shower tiles started.


----------



## 123pugsy

This gets me caught up.

Friday night, floor tile grout finished.
Yesterday, wall tiles sealed. 

Ready for grout today....if I feel like it....everyone says to take Father's Day off...:vs_worry:


----------



## 123pugsy

Pic attaching issue....new post for a coupla more pics....


----------



## ddawg16

I like that stone


----------



## Windows on Wash

+1.

Looks very classy. Wouldn't expect anything less from you.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Guys.

I had a buddy come by who is a Tile Dude and he spent only a couple hours doing the grout.


----------



## 123pugsy

Some paint and tile enhancer.
Fixtures back in.
Just waiting on the shower pan now.

Moving upstairs for some carpentry on the main floor next.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looks fantastic....no surprises there.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks WOW.

A shot of my crooked toilet flange below. I used a sponge seal and no leaks or fumes coming thru so lucky there.

Shower tray has been drawn out on CAD and sent to the laser cutters. I got it bent up and welded at work. More on that when I get back to it.

Things moving a bit slower now that I am taking a bit of my old life back. I have gone fishing four times since the last Saturday of June. Sweet.


----------



## 123pugsy

Another load of base boards and trim arrived for the main floor.

I started by installing the plinth blocks I made and then casings and pediments on all the doorways.


----------



## 123pugsy

There is a 1/2" MDF board installed first with the baseboard nailed to that.

I did a mock up of the beadboard panels and mullions after I got the first section of baseboards done.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got a friend to cut up all the MDF mullions I will need. Just waiting for them to arrive.
In the meantime, I am installing the base board all around the main floor.
I got it all done except the washroom and the office.


----------



## 123pugsy

Of course when you're rushing along to get things done, it never fails, equipment failure is imminent.
Compressor died so I had to rewire the garage with a 30 amp circuit for the new compressor. You just got to know if a guy's 3 HP compressor dies, he just *has* to get a 5HP 2 stage unit.....:biggrin2:


----------



## 123pugsy

A couple of pics of the new shower tray.
It's stainless steel of course with an orbital sander finish to take away the high sheen.

It's got some raised gription dimples pressed into it.

It installs exactly like a bathtub. Too easy. :wink2:


----------



## jlhaslip

Very nice.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> A couple of pics of the new shower tray.
> It's stainless steel of course with an orbital sander finish to take away the high sheen.
> 
> It's got some raised gription dimples pressed into it.
> 
> It installs exactly like a bathtub. Too easy. :wink2:


That is cheating......


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> That is cheating......


With a project of this magnitude, a little cheating is always good.
Besides, who wants grout lines on the floor of a shower?


----------



## 123pugsy

Just gotta love these new vanities. Sure don't make for an easy time of installing baseboards.

A little piece for a test.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the sills and casings done on the main floor windows.


----------



## 123pugsy

I did all the upstairs windows this weekend.

Man, am I beat. Had to carve the drywall from all around them, sand the jamb front corners to a radius, prime and paint.

All nail holes spackled and gaps hit with Alex Plus.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the beadboard started on the first floor.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I got the beadboard started on the first floor.


Nice work Pugsy...looks good! :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Nice work Pugsy...looks good! :smile:


Thanks.
I took the pics from the correct angle.

I now have to caulk every 8" because every joint stands out like a sore thumb.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> I took the pics from the correct angle.
> 
> I now have to caulk every 8" because every joint stands out like a sore thumb.


Oh...so you need some 8" caulk then, do you? :devil3:


----------



## jlhaslip

cocobolo said:


> Oh...so you need some 8" caulk then, do you? :devil3:


I have a tube of 6" caulk if you need it. I could mail it tomorrow.


:devil3:


----------



## cocobolo

jlhaslip said:


> I have a tube of 6" caulk if you need it. I could mail it tomorrow.
> 
> 
> :devil3:


Do you think that would do it jl? Maybe I have some 10" caulk here and Pugsy could just cut 2" off mine and stick it on your 6". Whaddya say? :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Do you think that would do it jl? Maybe I have some 10" caulk here and Pugsy could just cut 2" off mine and stick it on your 6". Whaddya say? :devil3:


Glad to see one of you guys is on the ball now. With the cracks 8" apart and these nice ideas flying, I can finish in half the time.
Double 8".....perfect...:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Top boards and caps installed in the living room.
A bit of caulking, spackling and touch up paint and I can move to another area.

Got to do one section at a time so I have somewhere to move stuff to to get out of the way. Sure was easier (and quieter) working in an empty house.


----------



## 123pugsy

The millwork is slow going especially when a guy is doing some fishing in between.

The dining room and mudroom were up next.


----------



## 123pugsy

More pics.............


----------



## 123pugsy

Installed a book shelf in the corner created by the laundry chute bump out.

I blacked out the air return hole for a nicer look when the screen goes back on.

A wall box to cover the sub panel.


----------



## 123pugsy

Finished (almost) office pics.......


----------



## 123pugsy

I hired a painting company to help move things along.

They did the porch ceiling and rafters, all the white on the garage, the basement stairwell, basement window casings, the 3 way corner at the top of the second floor stairs, all the insides of the entry doors, and a bit more.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got my new tailgate finally.
How do you like the color match?


----------



## cocobolo

Fishing? You have time for fishing...??? Must be nice! :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Fishing? You have time for fishing...??? Must be nice! :smile:


Nope, no time for fishing but I went anyways. That's why it's taken almost 3 months just to install the carpentry on the first floor and still not done yet.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Nope, no time for fishing but I went anyways. That's why it's taken almost 3 months just to install the carpentry on the first floor and still not done yet.


For the amount of work you have done Pugsy, three months is pretty darned fast. And from the pics, it sure does look really good. :smile:


----------



## Colbyt

123pugsy said:


> The millwork is slow going especially when a guy is doing some fishing in between.
> 
> The dining room and mudroom were up next.



I second the 'you have time for fishing?' comment.

Homes get built quickly, palaces take more more time.

You go boy!


----------



## 123pugsy

The next order of business was to take care of the basement window casings and sills since the Painter Dudes did all the jambs when they were here.


----------



## 123pugsy

The last pieces of beadboard cut and installed in the main floor powder room. Actually, no more beadboard to install in the whole house.
Wa-hoo.... :wink2:

I then installed the stainless steel back and side splashes. What? They don't look like stainless? I had them powder coated in a customer's batch of white items at work.

I cut little blocks of hardwood and glued them up with No More Nails into the splashes and then to the wall. Man, I love this stuff as it grabs instantly.

Then some vertical tiles to blend in with the beadboard. I don't think the MDF would have lasted too long behind the sink.


----------



## 123pugsy

Of course I had to install all the vanity lights too low, so a little adjustment was in order.

Then I wasn't sure how to install the mirror.
Having it out over 2" to be in front of the top caps wouldn't do.

Not sure how this looks? Any opinions? Not that I feel like changing it anyways, just curious if it looks horrendous or not.


----------



## 123pugsy

Time to move onto the stairs while the mud is drying from the patch job in the washroom.
I got the final wall skirt board cut to size, primed and two coats of paint today so I can install it tomorrow.

While the paint was drying, I took care of the stair carpentry gaps at the ceiling and wall.


----------



## user_12345a

Did you have any reservations about finishing the basement on a brand new build vs waiting to see if there are any plumbing/electrical/foundation issues?

Now if there's a problem you have to start punching holes.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> Did you have any reservations about finishing the basement on a brand new build vs waiting to see if there are any plumbing/electrical/foundation issues?
> 
> Now if there's a problem you have to start punching holes.


No. I set the foundation back down on soil that was compacted by the old house for 48 years which before that, was compacted for millions of years.

And, if something happens, oh well.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Of course I had to install all the vanity lights too low, so a little adjustment was in order.
> 
> Then I wasn't sure how to install the mirror.
> Having it out over 2" to be in front of the top caps wouldn't do.
> 
> Not sure how this looks? Any opinions? Not that I feel like changing it anyways, just curious if it looks horrendous or not.


I like it. Actually, I'm really impressed with all of your millwork, especially the fine detail like the small 45* corner you posted in #995.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Len.

Ya, the little bits are the toughest. 
Next time, remind me to leave some space between the doors. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

Some pics of the finished powder room.


----------



## 123pugsy

let's see if I can post more than 2 pics this time...

If you look carefully out the window in one shot, you can see one of those newfangled Segway cars going by exactly when I snapped the pic.


----------



## 123pugsy

Millwork finished, wa-hoo......


----------



## 123pugsy

Saw in garage taken down, all baseboards and casings gone, hot rod down from the hoist, a ton of sawdust sweeping and blowing.....oh yeah, sweet......:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Blinds came in and exactly in time for "be kind to burglars" week.

If they are sneaking around the side of the house and the MIL is neck-ed, they won't see her...phew.....


----------



## 123pugsy

Installed the back splash behind the sink.
I used a tile edge right to the edge on the window jambs to run my brick tiles into. Going to try it with no casings or pediment to see how it looks.
Laid down the first coat of mud to get the tiles flatter between the wall and window.


----------



## 123pugsy

The back splash behind the stove was only sitting in place. I took it to work to flatten it out a bit. I was heating it up for shrinking and I baked on the cooking grease and went to remove it with some type of scrubbing bubbles cleaner and it took the patina right off....whoops....

I got the fire out and recolored it after using oven cleaner. I tested the oven cleaner on the backside for giggles and found it didn't affect the colour. Cool. I got it glued to a board this morning with silicone. I will install it tomorrow night.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Saw in garage taken down, all baseboards and casings gone, hot rod down from the hoist, a ton of sawdust sweeping and blowing.....oh yeah, sweet......:wink2:


Aaaaah, at long last! I see you finally have your priorities straight!!!!

I trust you will be able to work on the car pretty soon...yes? :smile:


----------



## jlhaslip

cocobolo said:


> Aaaaah, at long last! I see you finally have your priorities straight!!!!
> 
> I trust you will be able to work on the car pretty soon...yes? :smile:


At the rate he is going, probably do wainscotting and baseboard in the Cab.

:biggrin2:


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> The back splash behind the stove was only sitting in place. I took it to work to flatten it out a bit. I was heating it up for shrinking and I baked on the cooking grease and went to remove it with some type of scrubbing bubbles cleaner and it took the patina right off....whoops....
> 
> I got the fire out and recolored it after using oven cleaner. I tested the oven cleaner on the backside for giggles and found it didn't affect the colour. Cool. I got it glued to a board this morning with silicone. I will install it tomorrow night.


I dunno -I kinda liked it. Looks kinda funky, but admittedly wouldn't have matched your decor theme.


----------



## cocobolo

jlhaslip said:


> At the rate he is going, probably do wainscotting and baseboard in the Cab.
> 
> :biggrin2:


Right...never thought of that jl. You just can't trust these guys from Ontario y'know! :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> ...............................
> I trust you will be able to work on the car pretty soon...yes? :smile:


Not bloody likely.

Tile heaven is in my sights....oooh.....so looking forward to that.

I have at least six months of work left in the house.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the new legs for the dining table started.
Parts are just about ready to weld. Just need to cut plates for the top and bottom.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> I got the new legs for the dining table started.
> Parts are just about ready to weld. Just need to cut plates for the top and bottom.


Good grief! You sure don't do things the easy way! That's really amazing!


----------



## Windows on Wash

Looks bad ass sir.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> I got the new legs for the dining table started.
> Parts are just about ready to weld. Just need to cut plates for the top and bottom.



With all the metal work in your house I'm reminded of a scene from the original Ghost Busters movie describing how the building had a strange metallurgy making it "spook central" (couldn't find a good clip). I'm watching the news for weird happenings in Markham!


----------



## 123pugsy

Tiles started for the kitchen backsplash.
There's a big color difference between the two copper back splashes, but, oh well...


----------



## Windows on Wash

I like it. Kitchens follow the standard playbook too much these days. I like it.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks WOW.

If my house were a hot rod, this one would be a custom.
Hey,...... just like my hot rod.....


----------



## cocobolo

Windows on Wash said:


> I like it. Kitchens follow the standard playbook too much these days. I like it.


Seems to me that NOTHING in his house is from any standard playbook! It's all good stuff.

Now, about getting to work on that hot rod.....


----------



## Windows on Wash

cocobolo said:


> Seems to me that NOTHING in his house is from any standard playbook! It's all good stuff.


Including the owner....

:biggrin2:


----------



## cocobolo

Windows on Wash said:


> Including the owner....
> 
> :biggrin2:


Heheheheh! Now that's VERY funny!! :devil3:


----------



## 123pugsy

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Windows on Wash*  
_Including the owner....

:biggrin2:_




cocobolo said:


> Heheheheh! Now that's VERY funny!! :devil3:


Ha.....so true though. Everyone knows I'm kind of a nut.


----------



## 123pugsy

The head of the heritage committee just left my office. He told me my house may win an award.....say what? :smile:


----------



## ddawg16

Pugs...I just forwarded one of your kitchen pics to my wife. Specifically, the copper back splash....

I just finished my last lower cabinet....tile is getting started tomorrow....getting quotes on quartz counter tops now.

We 'think' we have the backsplash worked out....but just in case, I want her to see what you have.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> The head of the heritage committee just left my office. He told me my house may win an award.....say what? :smile:


I'm not surprised. And I know that is a big deal in your 'town'. Congrats even for the nomination.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> I'm not surprised. And I know that is a big deal in your 'town'. Congrats even for the nomination.


Thanks.

The guy thought the house wasn't finished because I didn't install shutters. I told them that I had shutters on the drawings because initially I was going to use solid red bricks for the whole house. When I found the multi colored bricks, there was no "sea" of red to break up so I left them off.

This may make or break the award. Oh well.

But, I do know that no builder tries to make heritage zone homes to look very vintage, so who knows.
I believe it still has an old home look without the shutters.


----------



## Windows on Wash

Not surprising to me in the least. They are recognizing quality and craftsmanship.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks.

I always wanted to be an architect when I was younger.


----------



## Windows on Wash

"You've really gotten fat George...." 

That show was so flipping funny.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the tiles in and did a survey around the house. Everyone said to leave the tiles the color they are straight out of the box.

For those that know me, know that I could not leave well enough alone.
The second pic is the point of no return.....on goes the enhancer/sealer.


----------



## 123pugsy

All the tiles edges were sealed next, crown and sill added, and blinds installed.

The blinds won't see any action until next year when the late afternoon summer sun shines in. Perhaps, I should store them in the box they came in and only throw them up as needed. :vs_worry:


----------



## lenaitch

I like the darker look and the sealing will help keep out grease and all the other airborne things that come from cooking. I'd leave the blinds up. They help finish the window and maybe allow you to walk around nekkid without alarming the neighbours. Besides, it will be just your luck that the seasonal sun streaming in the window will happen when you're away fishing or busy trying to do ten other things.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> I like the darker look and the sealing will help keep out grease and all the other airborne things that come from cooking. I'd leave the blinds up. They help finish the window and maybe allow you to walk around nekkid without alarming the neighbours. Besides, it will be just your luck that the seasonal sun streaming in the window will happen when you're away fishing or busy trying to do ten other things.


Thanks....good point about being busy when the shrieking for the blind reinstall begins....I'll never hear it by leaving them up. :wink2:


----------



## 1995droptopz

123pugsy said:


> I got the new legs for the dining table started.
> Parts are just about ready to weld. Just need to cut plates for the top and bottom.


I love the steel industrial furniture look. I have a similar plan in mind for my dining table as well, some point in the future anyway.

What do you plan on doing for the table top?


----------



## 123pugsy

1995droptopz said:


> I love the steel industrial furniture look. I have a similar plan in mind for my dining table as well, some point in the future anyway.
> 
> What do you plan on doing for the table top?


Thanks.


I bought a used harvest table which I may need to refinish the top.
Pics will follow when I get it together.


----------



## 123pugsy

I grabbed a nice hanger for the TV off of Amazon...gotta love that site....

I had a bunch of wires hanging down so I measured up a little box to hide them. The box came in handy for other things...who woulda thunk?

I still need to set up the sound bar properly but it fits real well.


----------



## 123pugsy

These pics are from after the painters I hired to help came to fix the mess they did.
It got worse. I figured experts could cut better than me or perhaps wouldn't sling paint over my nice newel posts.

WOW Painting is the company.


----------



## 123pugsy

I had to stiffen the bottom of the shower pan so I used what the Molded Shower Dudes use. Styrofoam. A lot of cheese filing to get it flat on the bottom where it sets on the floor. Some silicone and a couple of boards to clamp it over night did the trick.

I then added 3/4 ply strips around as tile backer. In hindsight, they should have come forward another 3/4". Too much recess.


----------



## 123pugsy

Table legs ready.

A couple of pics of the table top. I was going to just take the legs off the table and screw the new legs underneath, but , well.... you guys know me by now......off track we go again.....jeez, this house will never finish.

The color is just too dark.


----------



## 123pugsy

So, out to the hot rod shop goes the table top.

I started by sanding off the white paint from the bottom.

I cut the ends off because they were biscuited and glued all the way across....DOH!
I guess that's why the three boards just fell apart when they were cut off.

I then started stripping off the horrible gloss Varathane.


----------



## 123pugsy

After some sanding, things were looking better......


----------



## ddawg16

Off track? Story of my life....I feel your pain.

But lets be honest.....you're having a blast.

I just dropped $8500 for the Quartz counter tops....$2500 for the Kitchen cabinet doors


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Off track? Story of my life....I feel your pain.
> 
> But lets be honest.....you're having a blast.
> 
> I just dropped $8500 for the Quartz counter tops....$2500 for the Kitchen cabinet doors


Actually, you're right. Because my next project is more tiling.....lot's of it too.

Ouch...$$$$... on the quartz.


----------



## ddawg16

We kicked around the pros and cons of Quartz vs Granite.

To get the look of granite we liked....it would have been about $3k or so.
The 2 slabs of quartz we need is $4k.

I'll never have to worry about sealing the quartz.

BTW...its over 70 sq ft of counter top space.

Labor is $3500 installed. The kitchen bay window adds to the complexity.


----------



## 123pugsy

I went with quartz also but picked a generic color.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> WOW Painting is the company.


I didn't think our WoW traveled that far. :devil3:

Can't wait to see what the table top comes out like. I agree, the gloss was a bit much.


----------



## 123pugsy

The next step was to plane all the long sides of the boards where they glue up.
I've only ever used my plane on a door that was sticking before. That means I had no clue how to use it. The boards were neither straight nor square. Gotta love YouTube for guidance.

Got the boards squared and straight, all by hand. Nice. Cut some biscuit slots and glued them up. While the glue was drying, I made up a jig to mortise for the tenons that would hold the bread board ends in place.


----------



## 123pugsy

Before the mortises were cut, I had to trim the ends with the skilsaw and straighten and square all over again. What fun cutting the end grain with the hand plane. Wasn't too bad as a Wood Dude on YouTube showed me how to sharpen the plane "iron".

I tested the mortise jig and things seemed fine so I cut the slots on each end of the table.

Made up the tenons and glued them in.


----------



## 123pugsy

A wee bit of a pickle as I cut the ends off the table and I had no 100 year old wood laying around. Kijiji to the rescue and on a Saturday to boot. Found a 2 x 6, exactly what I needed.

One edge cut on the table saw at work and then, what else, hand planed straight and square again.
I did the slots on the milling machine for a more precise fit and it worked well. They go on very tight.

Some sanding to blend them in as the table top is crooked to heck.

Last pic shows a nail I pulled from the piece of board I bought.


----------



## 123pugsy

Bread board ends installed with only glue on the center tenon. The four outer dowels go through elongated holes in the tenons to allow for wood movement.
This should not break apart again.

The end dowels are only glued to the bread boards and not right thru.


----------



## 123pugsy

I did a little color experimenting on the bottom of the table and then poured a bunch of Varathane on it to seal it up.

Flipped it the next day and hit the top with a light stain everywhere and the a darker stain immediately everywhere except the ends. 

The color is actually a wee bit darker than the pics and pretty much what I was looking for.

The last pic is from today. The first coat of clear applied.


----------



## jlhaslip

Looks great.

Curious about how much movement you allowed for in the tenons/mortises.


----------



## 123pugsy

jlhaslip said:


> Looks great.
> 
> Curious about how much movement you allowed for in the tenons/mortises.


1/4" or so.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> 1/4" or so.


1/4"? You expecting a hurricane to come through there? :vs_worry:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> 1/4"? You expecting a hurricane to come through there? :vs_worry:


You never know when a flood will hit on top of a hill....ha...

The amount of play has no effect on strength, so why not be safe? 1/8" either direction.


----------



## cocobolo

Isn't that old wood? Shouldn't move much at all.


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> Isn't that old wood? Shouldn't move much at all.


It is. If it moves I'm covered.


----------



## 123pugsy

I had no fun with this water based poly. What a pain. Rolling leaves chicken skin, brushing leaves brush marks as it's drying too fast.

I poured a bunch on last night and spread it around. The table top not being flat caused runs on top of all places. 
I had to spend an hour sanding out the mess.

I had enough so I pulled out my paint gun this morning and give er......it came quite nice.
There are some tiny nibs but they can only be felt and not seen, so I'll call it good.
I'll bring it in tomorrow and screw it to the base.


----------



## lenaitch

Really, really nice. Who do you commandeer to help lug stuff like this from shop to house? If the missus, lucky you.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Really, really nice. Who do you commandeer to help lug stuff like this from shop to house? If the missus, lucky you.



Thanks.

Gonna be scary tomorrow....the 75 year old FIL and the wife have to grab one end.
They don't wanna die.....it will go off without a hitch...ha......


----------



## 123pugsy

Wa-hoo........table finished.

I will wait a week before using it, maybe two.
Let the poly get good and crispy.


----------



## Yodaman

Sure to be a future family heirloom. Outstanding craftsmanship!


----------



## 1995droptopz

That is some beautiful work on that table there!


----------



## 123pugsy

Yodaman said:


> Sure to be a future family heirloom. Outstanding craftsmanship!






1995droptopz said:


> That is some beautiful work on that table there!


Thanks Gentlemen.

It came out as well as I could hope for.


----------



## jlhaslip

Does anyone need Hernia surgery after the move is done?

I agree with them other folks. Nice job. Looks great.


----------



## gma2rjc

That's a beautiful table 123pugsy. 

Just a suggestion, if you don't mind. If you have kids and they come home with a 'slime kit' from the craft store (or Santa Claus), don't let them get near your table with it. Same thing if they find a recipe for home made slime. 

My grand daughter brought a kit over and made slime at the table. One of the ingredients left white blotches in the polyurethane. 

Some slime recipes won't bother the finish at all, but some will and it's hard to know which is which. 

I imagine it would do the same thing to the finish on a wood floor.


----------



## 123pugsy

gma2rjc said:


> That's a beautiful table 123pugsy.
> 
> Just a suggestion, if you don't mind. If you have kids and they come home with a 'slime kit' from the craft store (or Santa Claus), don't let them get near your table with it. Same thing if they find a recipe for home made slime.
> 
> My grand daughter brought a kit over and made slime at the table. One of the ingredients left white blotches in the polyurethane.
> 
> Some slime recipes won't bother the finish at all, but some will and it's hard to know which is which.
> 
> I imagine it would do the same thing to the finish on a wood floor.


Oh yeah. 

I'm currently in possession of a slimer daughter. Little Miss scientist is 12 years old and loves slime.


----------



## 123pugsy

Finally moving on to the en suite washroom.

Started with paint.

I got the Schluter down and pre-filled all the squares so it would be easier to install the tiles.

36" x 6" plank tiles finished.


----------



## ddawg16

Do you really like that Ditra better than HardiBacker?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Do you really like that Ditra better than HardiBacker?


The theory of how it works is what sold me.
Too expensive though.
So far, so good on the three other areas that I used it.

In my last house, I installed 1/4" plywood over the subfloor with 12 x 12 tiles and never had a crack in a grout joint. This was on 13' span 2 x 8's at 16" centers, so maybe I'm just buying into all the "sky is falling" BS.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got two coats of Redguard down in the shower and tub areas, the top edging for the wall tiles installed, and the first batch of wall tiles installed. It's going along quite well. 

Slowdown on the project begins now as I go back to work.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the first section of "bricks" set. Hopefully sealed and grouted soon so I can reinstall the throne.


----------



## ddawg16

Don't make the mistake I did and grout before applying a sealer to the surface of that stone


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Don't make the mistake I did and grout before applying a sealer to the surface of that stone


Thanks.

One coat of sealer applied already.
I will start the grout tomorrow.


----------



## ddawg16

Side note.....

It looks really good.


----------



## Windows on Wash

+1

I do like that look as well.


----------



## ddawg16

Another side note.....attaching the toilet flange on top of the tile works so much better. I think I did mine that way after seeing you do it.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Another side note.....attaching the toilet flange on top of the tile works so much better. I think I did mine that way after seeing you do it.


It gets pretty close to toilet rocking syndrome though.
The 1/2" sponge just seals it.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> It gets pretty close to toilet rocking syndrome though.
> The 1/2" sponge just seals it.


I have a good solution for that....

Before I set the bowl, I turn it upside down and run a 1/4" bead of white silicone around the bottom leaving a 2" gap at the back.

I wait about 45 min or so...enough so the surface is not tacky....then I put the bowl in place. The silicone is firm enough so it kinda acts like a gasket. Takes care of any uneven tile issues.


----------



## 123pugsy

3/4" sponge and perfect. The flange is actually just a wee bit lower than if it were placed on top of the tiles.

Phase one of wall tiles complete and throne is back to it's rightful place.


----------



## 123pugsy

Update on the dining room table. Noticed it while eating dinner tonight.

Attached pic shows how the center section has shrunk with the dry air in the house that comes with the bitter cold.

Yeah, I think 1/8" for expansion was a bit too much though. Right now, it's less than a 1/16.


----------



## Yodaman

No worries Pugs, they add character.


----------



## lenaitch

Agree. If it looked absolutely perfect some people might think it was a replica or something. I saw something similar today in our local paint and decor store. They called it live edge but no bark, not as large as yours and with a metal base. Looked at the price tag - yikes! Above my paygrade.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks.

I am not worried about it. It is supposed to move (not supposed to, but it just does) with the humidity changes.
Just throwing it out there for anyone reading along to see the real effects and why the breadboard ends were installed as they were.


----------



## Glassit

Read this whole thread over the last couple weeks. Beautiful designs, stellar attention to detail.


----------



## 123pugsy

Glassit said:


> Read this whole thread over the last couple weeks. Beautiful designs, stellar attention to detail.


Thanks Glassit.

It's been a labor of ......... well, it's been labor......let's leave it there. :vs_whistle:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Glassit.
> 
> It's been a labor of ......... well, it's been labor......let's leave it there. :vs_whistle:


I think we could equate it to the labor of having a child.....as much as the pain is, women do it again.....


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I think we could equate it to the labor of having a child.....as much as the pain is, women do it again.....


Good thing I'm not a woman so the inclination to do it again will not come. :wink2:


----------



## hoopdewagon01

Great Job !


----------



## 123pugsy

Wall tiles, phase 2 complete. Final bathtub installation complete. Two more things complete. I was a little nervous running black silicone around the perimeter of the tub but it worked out well.

I had to run a "soldier course" of tiles around the edge of the tub as the backer board stopped at least an inch from the tub. I think it came out pretty good for a change on the fly.


----------



## 1995droptopz

Tile looks great. I just finished my shower with larger 4x16" subway tiles, and I don't think I will ever do that much subway again. The large format tiles are so much easier.


----------



## VirginiaMark

Bathroom looks great, what brand of tub did you install? Is it acrylic? Did you set it in a bed of mortar? thanks


----------



## 123pugsy

VirginiaMark said:


> Bathroom looks great, what brand of tub did you install? Is it acrylic? Did you set it in a bed of mortar? thanks


Thanks.

Tub is a 30" MAXX.

I just used cow patties of PL here and there.


----------



## 123pugsy

Well now....a little break away from my misery....still doing the tiles but I'm 98% on the way to pulling the trigger on a 69 El Camino.

It's not a show car by a long shot, but looks like something that can be driven right away without a full frame off.

Teaser pic:


----------



## lenaitch

Sweet!!! Pretty rare find up here and it looks to be in great shape. A former co-worker had a GMC version - I think it was called a Caballero. Only one I have ever seen.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Sweet!!! Pretty rare find up here and it looks to be in great shape. A former co-worker had a GMC version - I think it was called a Caballero. Only one I have ever seen.


Thanks.

And it's still rare up here. I'll be driving to Tennessee to get this one. With solid floors like in the pic attached, "it may be worth the drive to Acton"


----------



## 123pugsy

Most of the shower tiles are installed. Just need the bottom row. They get installed after the shower pan goes in, same as the basement shower.

The diamond at the shower valve is there because no matter how I laid them out, a grout joint landed on the escutcheon plate and I felt that water may run down the joint and into the wall.


----------



## 123pugsy

Sad day today......my honey is gone.

The second pic is the last I saw of her before she was swallowed up by the garage at the new owner's house....


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the shower pan set in place.
The drain hole lines up nicely. Need to cut the pipe and glue on the flange.
Then lay down some blobs of non shrink grout to stiffen up the bottom of the tray before dropping it in place.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Sad day today......my honey is gone.
> 
> The second pic is the last I saw of her before she was swallowed up by the garage at the new owner's house....


They were solid old trucks. Did we upgrade or are we making room for the El Camino? What will you be hauling the fishing boat with.

Nice looking shower pan btw.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> They were solid old trucks. Did we upgrade or are we making room for the El Camino? What will you be hauling the fishing boat with.
> 
> Nice looking shower pan btw.


Thanks.

The fishing boat gets pulled by the company car. 05 FX45.

No upgrade. Just making space for the El Camino. Heading out in the wee hours on Monday to Tennessee. Road trip.....


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> The fishing boat gets pulled by the company car. 05 FX45.
> 
> No upgrade. Just making space for the El Camino. Heading out in the wee hours on Monday to Tennessee. Road trip.....


Nice. Fanciest rig at the boat launch.

Have a safe trip.


----------



## 123pugsy

I picked up the 69 El Camino 2 weeks ago.

I had it on the hoist and pulled the tranny pan to change the filter. Interesting.

Pulled it out ant put it through the wash.

The condition of the clutches and steel plates do not match the mess in the pan.....hmmm......

I found a DIY oil pan from the yellow truck and I cut the bottom off to fit the car.


----------



## 123pugsy

Leaking rear shocks and spacers in the springs did not look good.


----------



## 123pugsy

Brakes were painted orange.....Ewwww....


Inside was a pleasant surprise. New wheel cylinders on four corners.
New shoes and drums freshly turned.


----------



## lenaitch

Congrats. I get the sense that you don't do being idle well.:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Congrats. I get the sense that you don't do being idle well.:wink2:


Nope.
Don't know why I have a deck and a porch....I'll never use them. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

The exhaust system was not quite up to snuff either so that had to go.
Still working on it. I ran out of parts.


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the exhaust done.


----------



## 123pugsy

Video:

First start up after exhaust. Smoke out the pipes...owwweee....
Big tick coming from the distributor of all places. Also, one spark plug wire was not clicked in. Running on 7







Changed the coil pack in the distributor with an old OEM one I had and cleaned the plugs. Engine running better but you can hear it "hunting" for idle air. 








I then adjusted the idle screws and she's running smooth as silk. No more smoke and a lot quieter.


----------



## BigJim

Man that sounds sweet, brought back a flood of memories. Wait until you open it up on the road, when those back butterflies open, you can almost watch the gas hand drop. LOL


----------



## ddawg16

The 'tick' can be the sound of arc from the spark on a bad connection. The energy has to go somewhere....

Love El Camino's....but.....unless it's a classic car, I will NEVER have a carb again. FI only way to go....or....all electric


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Man that sounds sweet, brought back a flood of memories. Wait until you open it up on the road, when those back butterflies open, you can almost watch the gas hand drop. LOL


Hey, hey...be nice....let's not talk about the fuel gauge that way.....you're gonna make me cry, ha....:smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> The 'tick' can be the sound of arc from the spark on a bad connection. The energy has to go somewhere....
> 
> Love El Camino's....but.....unless it's a classic car, I will NEVER have a carb again. FI only way to go....or....all electric


Ya, it was the coil pack freakin' out. Aftermarket China distributor.

I agree. EFI all the way. All this work is temporary until the (fuel injected) hot rod is finished. 












Then, this baby will get the frame off treatment, LS engine, etc.





.


----------



## ddawg16

Nice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## 123pugsy

That's gonna be a 496 stroker, sequential EFI with a 2001 Express Van ECM, so tune-able with a laptop.

4L80E overdrive with a Gear Vendors overdrive unit behind that.


----------



## 123pugsy

Here's a link to the hot rod build for those so inclined or curious. Scroll down a bit to see the beginning. This will be my DIY project when the house is done. And yes, it will be done, ha....

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=39830&page=8&perpage=5&reverse=1


----------



## racer-john

123pugsy, wow what a read, nicely done mate. Enjoy! :smile::smile::smile:


----------



## Glassit

Looks like a lot of work to go through for that trans! Plan on keeping it auto? Surely it wouldn't last too long behind a new LS?


----------



## 123pugsy

racer-john said:


> 123pugsy, wow what a read, nicely done mate. Enjoy! :smile::smile::smile:


Hi John. Welcome aboard.

Awful nice of you to join up to give me a comment on the thread.
See what happens when you ask for a pic or two?

Thanks.


----------



## 123pugsy

Glassit said:


> Looks like a lot of work to go through for that trans! Plan on keeping it auto? Surely it wouldn't last too long behind a new LS?


Thanks.

Actually, the 350 is the same (kinda) as the 4L60E, strength wise, so would hold up.

However, when FI comes, OD will come with it.
The car is in repair and drive mode for this year's cruising season and hopefully many more until the hot rod is done. Then they will swap places for a total frame off.


----------



## 123pugsy

The El Camino is at the mechanic's getting certified and an alignment.

Gave me time tonight to glue the drain down and install the plywood tile backer around three sides of the shower base.

Hopefully get the pan installed soon and the bottom row of tiles.
Very close to finishing the last of the tiles in this house........oh yeah....


----------



## 123pugsy

Yesterday, I mixed up a couple of bags on non shrink grout (quickly) and set the shower into the cow patties I plunked down.
I taped some plastic to the bottom before doing so.

My eyes are still burning from the five tubes of silicone I just laid down to glue this thing finally. Yes! Just need to finish the tiles now.


----------



## Fisher1871

123pugsy said:


> I got two coats of Redguard down in the shower and tub areas, the top edging for the wall tiles installed, and the first batch of wall tiles installed. It's going along quite well.
> 
> Slowdown on the project begins now as I go back to work.


Question about redguard - when you are coating the shower/bath area, do you take the redguard all the way to the tape to make a neat line or just sort of 'close enough'. Does the redguard come off the wall when you are peeling the taped border if a bit overlapped onto the tape?


----------



## 123pugsy

Fisher1871 said:


> Question about redguard - when you are coating the shower/bath area, do you take the redguard all the way to the tape to make a neat line or just sort of 'close enough'. Does the redguard come off the wall when you are peeling the taped border if a bit overlapped onto the tape?



I don't understand the question.
I can say I haven't taped off for it. Just stop an inch short of anywhere you will paint.
Of course, there would be primer over any mud/drywall and at the edge of tiles, no worries about moisture.


----------



## Fisher1871

123pugsy said:


> I don't understand the question.
> I can say I haven't taped off for it. Just stop an inch short of anywhere you will paint.
> Of course, there would be primer over any mud/drywall and at the edge of tiles, no worries about moisture.


Thank - I think that answers it.

I was wondering if the redguard has to cover the surface with the exact footprint of the tile one plans on laying.


----------



## 123pugsy

Fisher1871 said:


> Thank - I think that answers it.
> 
> I was wondering if the redguard has to cover the surface with the exact footprint of the tile one plans on laying.


Doesn't matter too much. The thinset will stick to anything.
Use modified.


----------



## DorianSen

123pugsy said:


> Here's a link to the hot rod build for those so inclined or curious. Scroll down a bit to see the beginning. This will be my DIY project when the house is done. And yes, it will be done, ha....


Love that hot rod build, Pugsy. It really put me in the mood to tackle a project like this as well. Just what I needed!


----------



## 123pugsy

Bottom row of tiles set. Just need to set the base tiles and will be ready to grout tomorrow.


----------



## 123pugsy

The last spike..........no more tiles to cut ...oh ya.......


----------



## 123pugsy

En suite is finished except for the shower glass.


No more casings, sills, trims, tiles, grout, left to do in the whole house.....all finished....oh ya... :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Stone installed on exposed foundation.


----------



## BigJim

It all looks fantastic, who ever did the stone was really good, it looks great.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Jim.


Ya, the installers did a great job. Cost was reasonable.
It's nice to find another trade that can do a good job of it in today's hack market.


----------



## lenaitch

A house you can be certainly proud of. Compare this image to the photos in Post 1 - wow!


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> A house you can be certainly proud of. Compare this image to the photos in Post 1 - wow!



Thanks Len.


Let's put before and after side by side:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Len.
> 
> 
> Let's put before and after side by side:


Pugs......I don't know bro......the old house had so 'character'.....and....you didn't have to climb up stairs...it had that 'old' charm....I'm sure it was nice and 'cool' in the winter.....


But....it's nice to know I'm not the only one..............

(Impressive results)


----------



## 123pugsy

Getting close to finishing washroom number three. Only one to go and can move onto other projects. This is going slow because I'm still spending time working on *CURSE*. This is the El Camino. The name is fitting with all her issues.


----------



## romeojk27

Wow, this is incredible. What a transformation. Did you ever imagine it would turn out so well? Bravo [emoji122] and congrats!


----------



## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> Wow, this is incredible. What a transformation. Did you ever imagine it would turn out so well? Bravo [emoji122] and congrats!



Thanks Romeo.


Everything is coming to plan, but what I didn't expect was how good the bricks look as I was originally going to go with a company called "Vintage Bricks" Their bricks only came in a solid color, all of them the same. 



I had shutters drawn on the plans to take away from the sea of red bricks, but I now feel it doesn't need them any more.


I believe the Heritage Committee believes otherwise because I haven't heard anything about my "award". Oh well, 30 G's in the bank is much better than a plaque or trophy I guess. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Gotta get going on the kitchen island.
Two concept sketches:


----------



## romeojk27

123pugsy said:


> Gotta get going on the kitchen island.
> Two concept sketches:




I like the barn door look “ X “ (my vote from the peanut gallery)


----------



## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> I like the barn door look “ X “ (my vote from the peanut gallery)



Thanks.


Votes appreciated. I am leaning that way also.


----------



## user_12345a

How did you acquire the skill set required to do all this?


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> How did you acquire the skill set required to do all this?



Thanks.



Tradesmen can usually do anything they put their minds to.
I started fabricating custom sheet metal when I was 17 years old and just kept learning different things over the years....this is the answer I would like to put out there so all my fellow tradesmen love me, ha....however....


YouTube had a lot to do with it. After eight 5 minute YouTube flicks I learned enough to be dangerous with the CAD program and drew the house plans.
Internet searches for a lot of other things. So much info out there.



I bought a copy of the building and electrical codes. Most think the cost is too high for these, but actually in the scheme of things, the cost is peanuts. I even sized my own beam using the code book.


A neighbor of mine used to work for a home builder so I picked his brain a lot.


And forum questions always get answered. People just love to share info. He who doesn't ask, doesn't learn.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Getting close to finishing washroom number three. Only one to go and can move onto other projects. This is going slow because I'm still spending time working on *CURSE*. This is the El Camino. The name is fitting with all her issues.



You said in an earlier post that you don't do 'relax' well, so if it was for the car, you would probably into another project anyway. Besides, it's been too hot and humid to fish.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> You said in an earlier post that you don't do 'relax' well, so if it was for the car, you would probably into another project anyway. Besides, it's been too hot and humid to fish.



Oh yeah, I would be into another project.....the 41 Chrysler New Yorker sitting in the driveway has been calling me for 4 years.


Here's a Photoshop a guy did recently on HR. com.
Second pic is where she actually is. Still need to make a new hood as my first attempt is not looking too good. About five years to go on the hot rod at least.


If only, I could get this %$%^$&*(&* house finished........:vs_mad: :vs_smirk: :vs_laugh: :vs_OMG: :vs_whistle: ......can you tell it's making a blabbering idiot by now? Just too many projects in a total house build.


----------



## lenaitch

A house to finish plus two classics to work on - you are a machine.


I've known a couple of guys who built their own houses and it seems it's hard not to hate the damn thing by the time you're done. I suppose the trouble is the finer and more finickity details are the things you actually see.


----------



## 123pugsy

Back up water powered sump pump finally hooked up.


No more manually pumping during a power failure which usually hits during severe rainfall of course. Only happened once, but that was enough for me.


----------



## 123pugsy

Kitchen island mock up started.........


----------



## 123pugsy

A splash of paint...........


----------



## 123pugsy

I went for a *CURSE* cruise and grabbed a couple of old boards yesterday. These will be for the raised top. Hopefully, the finish will be similar to the dining table posted a few pages back.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got the garage set up to do woodworking again.
Then started cutting some boards and got to biscuiting and "Kregging" them together.


----------



## 123pugsy

I managed to get the whole framework together today. Waiting on the slats that go behind the face.


----------



## romeojk27

Those panels look terrific, great job! Say, I was hoping you could share a little more detail on making the panels. I have to to make three small doors for a crawlspace and would like to use your design. I'm interested in how you got the pieces together and if you have to go in a particular order putting it together. I'm really not much of a finish carpenter so this will be a new adventure for me. I mean I have put in doors, windows, walls, cabinets, etc. I just haven't made panel doors and the trim around my windows is pretty plain.


----------



## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> Those panels look terrific, great job! Say, I was hoping you could share a little more detail on making the panels. I have to to make three small doors for a crawlspace and would like to use your design. I'm interested in how you got the pieces together and if you have to go in a particular order putting it together. I'm really not much of a finish carpenter so this will be a new adventure for me. I mean I have put in doors, windows, walls, cabinets, etc. I just haven't made panel doors and the trim around my windows is pretty plain.



Doors and panels are different.
A router table or table saw should be used to make a frame for a door. Two pieces are grooved and two pieces are tongued. 

Frames are done using butt joints and pocket screws. I use a KREG tool to make my pocket holes and Kreg screws for fastening. Google Kreg and there are nice videos showing how to use them.




See attached pics. Doors on one side and face frame back side showing "pockets".


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Doors and panels are different.
> A router table or table saw should be used to make a frame for a door. Two pieces are grooved and two pieces are tongued.
> 
> Frames are done using butt joints and pocket screws. I use a KREG tool to make my pocket holes and Kreg screws for fastening. Google Kreg and there are nice videos showing how to use them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See attached pics. Doors on one side and face frame back side showing "pockets".


You do nice work Pugsy...REAL nice!


----------



## Fish_Stick

Nice work on the cabinets! It takes alot of work but knowing the quality and construction of cabinetry goes a long way. For the face frames are you using the Kreg face frame system to make the notches?


----------



## 123pugsy

Fish_Stick said:


> Nice work on the cabinets! It takes alot of work but knowing the quality and construction of cabinetry goes a long way. For the face frames are you using the Kreg face frame system to make the notches?



Thanks. 



Yes, the Kreg face frame setup and their router table also.
They paid for themselves on the first set of cabinets. Now for the island, it's like I'm using free tools to do the job. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> You do nice work Pugsy...REAL nice!





Thanks Keith.


How about your project? I love to see your regular updates and am getting the eebie jeebies by now. Need a Keith fix.......


----------



## Fish_Stick

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the Kreg face frame setup and their router table also.
> They paid for themselves on the first set of cabinets. Now for the island, it's like I'm using free tools to do the job. :wink2:



Nice, I've made cabinets on and off but haven't had the time lately. Never made them like that but I like that notch since it provides a nicer alignment system. The Kreg ps are so handy for the face frames and have saved me considerable time and effort. Doors though obviously are traditional assembly with solid panels. Yup, considering how expensive custom cabinets it's pretty easy to pay back $500 or so in tools.


----------



## 123pugsy

I got all the tongue and groove panels together. I set them in place for a sneak preview and I think it should look OK.


Then it hit me that if I glue and nail these panels on the back, there would be issues. The panels will expand and contract left to right but the top and bottom rails will not. 



I made a jig for the router to slot the panels everywhere except the centers. I will use screws and fender washers to hold the panels in place.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Keith.
> 
> 
> How about your project? I love to see your regular updates and am getting the eebie jeebies by now. Need a Keith fix.......


Thanks pugsy.....

Here's the truth of our current situation.

Up at 6 a.m. local time and spend the next 7 hours plus live on the stock market. Most days that is pretty hectic. I don't see it slowing down any time soon.

Then we have a massive project list, many items of which are underway. I have to realize that I probably only have another year or two at most to complete any major projects requiring the sort of physical labour that I used to be capable of.

Sadly, those days of being able to do that sort of work are coming to an end. The trouble is that both Val and I tend to try and do way too much on any given day and we are both exhausted at day's end. By that time I have no inclination, nor do I even have the energy, to try and spend another hour plus keeping things up to date on the thread. I really wish this wasn't the case. It's not that I don't WANT to do it, I just don't have any steam left.

This weekend we have had 14 visitors for the holiday weekend, and they have all travelled a long way to get here. I successfully conned one of the younger guys into helping me finish off a roofed area at one end of the house which we will be able to use as outside dry storage, or a space to stain siding, or any number of other things. I didn't mention this on the thread yet because we only decided to do it just over a week ago, and it got finished yesterday thanks to Gavin's help.

At some point I must get some photos of this little project and explain how it all came about. Next up will be the lean-to off the big shed which we will use to be able to store the various and sundry pieces of garden equipment that would rival a visit to Home Depot!

It also turned out that Gavin is pretty darned good at taping and mudding. So I turned him loose in the bathroom in what has to be one of the worst areas in the whole house to tape and mud. Nothing but small areas and endless corners. I must admit it looks good so far. I think he and his lady will be leaving tomorrow but I'm going to see if I can twist his arm to do a final coat. I did have the first coat done before he arrived which was a small help.

I have put a small storage area on one end of the deck upstairs outside the bedroom and living room. There is a very small roof which was extremely difficult to access. Once again it was Gavin to the rescue and we rigged up a very tall scaffold from which Gavin was able to reach to do the shingles.

There's quite a bit more but that will need to wait until I get more photos.

As for the '33, it sits languishing in the boys' shop while they get the '30 A sedan delivery finished. That should have been done by now, but they are experiencing the same thing we are here...work overload. Doesn't look as though I will actually be driving that one this year either. Oh well, whatareyougonnado?


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Keith.


I hear you on the getting old and sore thing. I am also getting burned out from this project. Just want it to go away.


Anyhow, just keep plugging away and take a lot of of breaks while you do so. I know I am.


----------



## cocobolo

123pugsy said:


> Thanks Keith.
> 
> 
> I hear you on the getting old and sore thing. I am also getting burned out from this project. Just want it to go away.
> 
> 
> Anyhow, just keep plugging away and take a lot of of breaks while you do so. I know I am.


Right pugsy. Taking breaks only seems to happen around here when one or both of us gets so exhausted that we simply cannot do anything else that day. I have tried repeatedly, without much success, to get Val to take breaks at least a couple of times a day.

I think that once all the drywall inside has a coat of paint, that things will start to feel a whole lot better. With a modicum of luck, that just could happen before the end of this year.

We're trying to get Gavin to come back here after his current project is finished and spend a couple of weeks here . If he is able to do that then I think the worst will be over.

One other item that I didn't mention yesterday, is that his good lady (Val's sister Ginny) organized a complete clean up of the shop down below. That was a major chore where everyone pitched in and is something that we could not have done ourselves. All of a sudden we have some room down there, and now I should be able to build a long bench down one side and shelving above the bench. Then we will have space to store a ton or so of stuff from the house.


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the Kreg face frame setup and their router table also.
> They paid for themselves on the first set of cabinets. Now for the island, it's like I'm using free tools to do the job. :wink2:


Looks really good Pugsy, I have use the bead like you did on a lot of cabinets also. I also love working with poplar it is one of my favorite woods. I know you have got to be burned out working on your home by now, I have been there and done that. How did you make the miter for the bead there?

Keith, I hear you on being wore out. I think I may have messed my back up for the last time a week ago, putting a trucker tarp on our pontoon boat. It was all I could do to pick it up, had to use a wench some of the time. I still have quite a few projects on the house I need to do before I totally give out. I just hope my back lets up so I can get back on the projects.


----------



## 123pugsy

Bead miters are made using the Kreg Face Frame System.


First, do all the miters and then run the beads. I just happen to be doing this today. Getting the cupboard side face frame going.


----------



## BigJim

123pugsy said:


> Bead miters are made using the Kreg Face Frame System.
> 
> 
> First, do all the miters and then run the beads. I just happen to be doing this today. Getting the cupboard side face frame going.


Buddy, that is just too cool, I would never have though about that. I have been doing it the hard way all this time. I appreciate you sharing your technique, I like that.


----------



## 123pugsy

Here's the face frame for the back of the island.


----------



## 123pugsy

I brought it inside and clamped it in place for a little look.


----------



## 123pugsy

BigJim said:


> Buddy, that is just too cool, I would never have though about that. I have been doing it the hard way all this time. I appreciate you sharing your technique, I like that.



Here's a video:


----------



## cocobolo

BigJim said:


> Keith, I hear you on being wore out. I think I may have messed my back up for the last time a week ago, putting a trucker tarp on our pontoon boat. It was all I could do to pick it up, had to use a wench some of the time.


Hmmmm, Jim...so you had to use a wench did you? I wouldn't tell your good wife about that if I were you!

Oh, but something tells you really meant to say winch, no?


----------



## BigJim

cocobolo said:


> Hmmmm, Jim...so you had to use a wench did you? I wouldn't tell your good wife about that if I were you!
> 
> Oh, but something tells you really meant to say winch, no?


That is ******* spelling. LOL Judy just saw this and cracked up. lol Man I am so embarrassed. :vs_bananasplit:


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the glass for the en suite shower set up.


Just need to seal the edges tonight and the final washroom for this build will be complete.....ahhh......


----------



## romeojk27

123pugsy said:


> Got the glass for the en suite shower set up.
> 
> 
> Just need to seal the edges tonight and the final washroom for this build will be complete.....ahhh......




Looks great  


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 123pugsy

Drawer and door, rails and stiles cut. Just need to pick up the 1/4" MDF, glue them up, and cut the applied moldings.


----------



## 123pugsy

Made a sled to plane the bottoms of the raised counter boards. These things are really warped and cupped all over. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the edges trimmed on my buddy's table saw and glued them up. The top of the short boards didn't line up well so a lot of hand planing took place. You can see the brighter spots on the wood....hmm....have to figure a way to darken those areas again.... 



The long board's top have some nice waves as well. The last two pics with the straight edge shows it well.


----------



## 123pugsy

Spent the day shooting primer, sanding and caulking the small gaps in the doors.
Sanded everything else ready for a second coat tomorrow morning.


Looking at the sanded doors, I'm thinking they look pretty good without paint...think this project is finally affecting my brain...


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Looking at the sanded doors, I'm thinking they look pretty good without paint...think this project is finally affecting my brain...



Actually, so do I, but I'm not (nor not allowed) to be a definitive arbiter of such things.


Nice work on the top. I have some 1+ x 13 rough lumber I'm going to try to build some bookcases for the daughter this winter. I'll have to see if I can get a local shop to do some milling for me - I don't have the space to set up a sled like yours.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Actually, so do I, but I'm not (nor not allowed) to be a definitive arbiter of such things.
> 
> 
> Nice work on the top. I have some 1+ x 13 rough lumber I'm going to try to build some bookcases for the daughter this winter. I'll have to see if I can get a local shop to do some milling for me - I don't have the space to set up a sled like yours.



Nice size boards for a bookcase. Local shop can plane them lickety split. Hope they don't charge too much though.


Appreciate the color input. I've found that deviating from plan usually ends up with disastrous results. 



Picture attached of the final green I selected. I will sand thru the green to the dark brown primer below and it will look similar to how I brushed on some black on the mock up. But should look better. I've never tried anything like this before, but thought I would give it a go.


----------



## 123pugsy

I've got paint on a lot of pieces and sanded them thru in spots.
Not sure how this whole finishing idea will look when done.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> I've got paint on a lot of pieces and sanded them thru in spots.
> Not sure how this whole finishing idea will look when done.



Sandpaper or steel wool? I've heard of both being used. If sandpaper, what grit? I assume it takes a bit of a deft touch (but, then again, you've demonstrated that in spades).


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Sandpaper or steel wool? I've heard of both being used. If sandpaper, what grit? I assume it takes a bit of a deft touch (but, then again, you've demonstrated that in spades).



220 grit sandpaper.


Gotta go out this morning and hit em with flat clear lacquer. That should get them back to the original shade of green. They lighten up a wee bit with the sanding.


----------



## 123pugsy

Hit with clear and doors screwed on...............


----------



## 123pugsy

Not too happy with the sand thru thus far, but that's the way it will stay....just not into going thru the whole painting, sanding, clear coating again.


I got the X frame sand thru looking a lot better. (in my mind, that is)


----------



## romeojk27

You're doing amazing work, thanks for sharing. You've inspired me to to redo two door panels for a crawlspace and one in front of a small hot water tank.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Not too happy with the sand thru thus far, but that's the way it will stay....just not into going thru the whole painting, sanding, clear coating again.
> 
> 
> I got the X frame sand thru looking a lot better. (in my mind, that is)



I guess the goal is supposed to mimic the look of years of wear, which on drawers and cabinets would be mostly around the knobs. Looks good, though.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> I guess the goal is supposed to mimic the look of years of wear, which on drawers and cabinets would be mostly around the knobs. Looks good, though.



Thanks.


Want it to look like it was painted a hunert years ago, and it's faded, worn, etc. The wear around the knobs will happen soon enough with the animals that live under my roof. (I kid you not)



I will post the bad with the good though. All part of the build. Let folks see what to do and not do.



Probably end up painting it later, if it pizzes me off enough.....or the next owner of the house can do so. Just don't care too much anymore at this point....burned out.



Need to finish this bloody house. The hot rod is calling. :wink2:


----------



## cocobolo

Glad to hear that pugsy. 

We are living in hope that all the inside of our place will be done in time for Christmas.

Only trouble is that we made a last minute decision to rip off an old deck which served as the carport, and replace it with a real carport (you know, the kind with concrete footings!). It's a fairly big job, and now the monsoons have arrived with a vengeance this morning. At least a week of rain on the way now....aaaaargh!


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> Probably end up painting it later, if it pizzes me off enough.....or the next owner of the house can do so. Just don't care too much anymore at this point....burned out.



I hear ya; you start out making measurements with a micrometer and finish off cutting with an axe just to get the damned job done. Good thing I'm not a watchmaker.



"Next owner"? Nah, you're there for life (or until a condo developer makes you an offer you can't refuse).


----------



## 123pugsy

I like it a bit better today......


----------



## 123pugsy

Corbels screwed and glued. Attached a stick as a "strong back" in case someone bumps into them.


----------



## 123pugsy

Inside shots showing all the screws. Almost 200 for the panels.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Inside shots showing all the screws. Almost 200 for the panels.



Your corner brace has two boards cutting the angle but they look to be divided by some other short boards at right angle to them. Using up off-cuts or is there a method to your madness?


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Your corner brace has two boards cutting the angle but they look to be divided by some other short boards at right angle to them. Using up off-cuts or is there a method to your madness?



Just off cuts that happened to be in the house. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the base platform made up and prepared the boxes and drawers by installing the drawer slides and faces.


----------



## 123pugsy

All pieces brought into the house and let the screwing (up?) begin. I had to weld up a 2' screw bit to get the screws in between the gables from the back.
You can see it in the first pic.


Just noticed, you can see the reason for the jog in the island wall. It's to store the ladder that's req'd when one builds cabinets that go to the top of 9' walls.


----------



## cocobolo

A two foot long screw bit you say?

Reminds me of my boatbuilding days when we occasionally needed a 42 inch long bit to drill out for the propellor shaft in the old wooden boats. If I remember rightly, that was a 1 1/2" hole. 

Those base cabinets are something else pugsy. Looks like all stainless steel. :smile:


----------



## 123pugsy

cocobolo said:


> A two foot long screw bit you say?
> 
> Reminds me of my boatbuilding days when we occasionally needed a 42 inch long bit to drill out for the propellor shaft in the old wooden boats. If I remember rightly, that was a 1 1/2" hole.
> 
> Those base cabinets are something else pugsy. Looks like all stainless steel. :smile:



Thanks. 

All stainless of course...it's the day job so, what else? You can only see the stainless at the microwave and that's too much showing for me.....oh well, it can't be perfect. The rest is behind closed doors.


A 42" drill bit sounds like it may be a bit difficult to achieve accuracy on placement. I'm sure you must have had some kind of guide?


----------



## 123pugsy

Stainless hidden and did the miter cuts so we have a sneak preview of the raised top.


----------



## cocobolo

Correctamundo, we used a guide and actually drilled the hole from both sides and tried to meet in the middle. A fun job for sure.


----------



## 123pugsy

The backsplash install was going to be an issue attaching to the panels which would expand and contract left to right.
I made up some slotted channels at work to glue the backsplash to.


----------



## Druidia

I love the greenish/bluish color of your bar!

The right side of your fridge enclosure has doors. Is it to make cleaning the back of the fridge easy - so you don’t have to pull out the fridge? I’ve been wishing forever that my fridge enclosure has a hinged right side (or sliding, or anything movable) just for that reason. I hate the twice a year need to pull out the fridge just to clean the back. Makes me wonder why the people who design/install kitchens don’t seem to think about cleaning practicalities.


----------



## 123pugsy

Druidia said:


> I love the greenish/bluish color of your bar!
> 
> The right side of your fridge enclosure has doors. Is it to make cleaning the back of the fridge easy - so you don’t have to pull out the fridge? I’ve been wishing forever that my fridge enclosure has a hinged right side (or sliding, or anything movable) just for that reason. I hate the twice a year need to pull out the fridge just to clean the back. Makes me wonder why the people who design/install kitchens don’t seem to think about cleaning practicalities.



No, it's to make it look like not just a flat board which I see many people do.


Also, it makes a fantastic little pantry. The interior shelves are about 4" in depth.


----------



## 123pugsy

Got the poly hand brushed into the cracks and then used the spray gun for the final coat.


Quartz will possibly be here this week some time.


----------



## cocobolo

Hoooweee...pretty fam dancy there pugsy! :biggrin2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks Keith. 



The color doesn't look so great under the hot rod.
I got it into the house and screwed in place for now. Just need to finish the backsplash.


----------



## ddawg16

Pugs....I wish you were close to me.....I could use some of that outstanding SS work....

I want to make the top of my work bench SS....do you think 14g is enough? I have a good solid base of 2x and 3/4" polywood.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Pugs....I wish you were close to me.....I could use some of that outstanding SS work....
> 
> I want to make the top of my work bench SS....do you think 14g is enough? I have a good solid base of 2x and 3/4" polywood.



18 ga would be fine.
Glue a piece of P/Lam on top of the plywood first, and you'll have a crispy layer right under the stainless. 

And, what's a couple of small dents....battle scars....insert Tim Taylor grunt here....


.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> 18 ga would be fine.
> Glue a piece of P/Lam on top of the plywood first, and you'll have a crispy layer right under the stainless.
> 
> And, what's a couple of small dents....battle scars....insert Tim Taylor grunt here....
> 
> 
> .


what is p/lam?


----------



## 123pugsy

Plastic laminate/Formica, etc.


Or, a piece of light ga satin coat or galvanized between the s/s and the plywood to save yourself some coin.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Plastic laminate/Formica, etc.
> 
> 
> Or, a piece of light ga satin coat or galvanized between the s/s and the plywood to save yourself some coin.


Ok....gotcha....

Basically, something not as soft as the plywood.

I'll wait and see what the prices are....and....I'm not overly concerned about work bench rash.....it's a work bench....I just want a surface I can clean easily....

I 'was' going to have the SS bent up to give me a backsplash....but now I'm think I want something different.

Ideas?


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Ok....gotcha....
> 
> Basically, something not as soft as the plywood.
> 
> I'll wait and see what the prices are....and....I'm not overly concerned about work bench rash.....it's a work bench....I just want a surface I can clean easily....
> 
> I 'was' going to have the SS bent up to give me a backsplash....but now I'm think I want something different.
> 
> Ideas?



Bent up is the best. Unless it doesn't go against the wall.


I have no bench in my garage. I have a flat top mobile table. My vise is bolted to a stand, bolted to the floor. Same for my "bench" grinder.


----------



## 123pugsy

Backsplash is gluing up today. Island will be finished tomorrow.


In the mean time, working on some make up air for the overpowered range hood. I ran a power wire when I roughed in the house to the basement ceiling that energizes when the hood is turned on.


I made a couple of stainless panels this afternoon with some insulation between, replaced the glass with these, and installed an intake boot to attach the 6" inline fan.


----------



## user_12345a

are you going to pipe it to the kitchen? you reduce heat loss putting the make up air in the space air is being taken from. the room gets cooler and the rest of the house is unaffected. vs cooling the rest of the house and having the heat run more to compensate.


----------



## 123pugsy

user_12345a said:


> are you going to pipe it to the kitchen? you reduce heat loss putting the make up air in the space air is being taken from. the room gets cooler and the rest of the house is unaffected. vs cooling the rest of the house and having the heat run more to compensate.



Nope. Just balancing air. I have no cares about heat loss.
We've been opening a window to run the fan.


----------



## user_12345a

I don't see the value in using a fan for make-up air then. If you don't have any natural draft appliances, having the house under negative pressure is okay. The air naturally leaks in to replace what's removed. may slightly reduce cfm of the fan though, running with a lower pressure in the house.


----------



## 123pugsy

3 - 400 CFM requires more than natural leaking of the new house which is really tight.


With the fan running, if you swing the door closed with anything less than slamming pressure, it pops inward again. With a bit of play in the handset, it pulls the door in and whistles. So, ya, this is a wee bit custom going on here.
I've hot rodded my house. :wink2:


----------



## romeojk27

That make up air is so cool [emoji41] thanks for the ideas


----------



## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> That make up air is so cool [emoji41] thanks for the ideas



Thanks, but it's only cool in the winter.....ha...:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

Laundry room got pretty cool this morning but recovery time was quick after fan was turned off as everything in the room is already warm.


Quartz Dudes were here Friday and I finished backsplash install yesterday. Just need to silicone the bottom.


.


----------



## 123pugsy

I'm about 4 hours away from completion of the inside of the house...just need to add some trims to the laundry sink backsplash.



Oh, and three only dimmer switches for the living room lights.



Time to start working on the hot rod again after the garage is cleaned up. :wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

*FINISHED!!!!!*
*
*
*................the inside that is.......only front porch needs lattice and paint done. Oh, and stain the back deck....*
*
*
*See you all in the spring....thanks for following along everyone.
*


----------



## romeojk27

Congratulations! I came on late and read through the entire string and am amazed and in awe of not just all of the work you did, but in the details and how you made so much of material goods that went into your home. And then there’s the quality of the work...amazing and inspiring. 

You have taught me to slow down and enjoy the work and to focus on the quality of the work being done. For that I thank you and look forward to the next chapter. Great work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> *FINISHED!!!!!*
> *
> *
> *................the inside that is.......only front porch needs lattice and paint done. Oh, and stain the back deck....*
> *
> *
> *See you all in the spring....thanks for following along everyone.*



Huzzah! Maybe keep us posted on the progress of the El Camino.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Huzzah! Maybe keep us posted on the progress of the El Camino.



As soon as a guy tries to drag himself up out of the gutter, they drag him right back in.....wow.............................ha....


OK, I'll bite....went for a drive this morning (already) and found a 12 bolt posi rear with 4.56 gear ratio.


How about when I opened it up and found a ring gear spacer meaning it's actually a 3 series diff that can hold more desirable gear sets. :wink2: 

See the rusty line between the flange and the gear? That's the spacer. A hack way of upping the gear count without changing the carrier. But, good for me.





Thinking 3.73:1 for excellent acceleration and with an overdrive tranny, half decent mileage to boot.
Of course this means I need to find a donor vehicle with a 5.3 liter and 4L60e tranny.




.


----------



## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> Congratulations! I came on late and read through the entire string and am amazed and in awe of not just all of the work you did, but in the details and how you made so much of material goods that went into your home. And then there’s the quality of the work...amazing and inspiring.
> 
> You have taught me to slow down and enjoy the work and to focus on the quality of the work being done. For that I thank you and look forward to the next chapter. Great work!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks for the kind words. Ya, I'm kinda anal about things but I just like stuff to work so no issues later. Do it once is enough for me.


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> As soon as a guy tries to drag himself up out of the gutter, they drag him right back in.....wow.............................ha....
> 
> 
> OK, I'll bite....went for a drive this morning (already) and found a 12 bolt posi rear with 4.56 gear ratio.
> 
> How about when I opened it up and found a ring gear spacer meaning it's actually a 3 series diff that can hold more desirable gear sets. :wink2:
> See the rusty line between the flange and the gear? That's the spacer. A hack way of upping the gear count without changing the carrier. But, good for me.
> 
> Thinking 3.73:1 for excellent acceleration and with an overdrive tranny, half decent mileage to boot.
> Of course this means I need to find a donor vehicle with a 5.3 liter and 4L60e tranny.



Sorry . . . . it was just a suggestion (the mods might want a new thread - dunno).


So, remove the spacer to allow room for a larger pinion?


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Sorry . . . . it was just a suggestion (the mods might want a new thread - dunno).
> 
> 
> So, remove the spacer to allow room for a larger pinion?



What sorry? I was just bustin' your chops...ha....


Ya, the pinions get larger in diameter as they get smaller numerically making the ring gear mounting surface further from the center.. Whoever added these 4.56's did it in a way that is not recommended by 99% of guys in the know. (online Dudes of course)
But, good for me because the seller didn't know it. :wink2:


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> *FINISHED!!!!!*
> *
> *
> *................the inside that is.......only front porch needs lattice and paint done. Oh, and stain the back deck....*
> *
> *
> *See you all in the spring....thanks for following along everyone.
> *


It's *NEVER *finished


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> As soon as a guy tries to drag himself up out of the gutter, they drag him right back in.....wow.............................ha....
> 
> 
> OK, I'll bite....went for a drive this morning (already) and found a 12 bolt posi rear with 4.56 gear ratio.
> 
> 
> How about when I opened it up and found a ring gear spacer meaning it's actually a 3 series diff that can hold more desirable gear sets. :wink2:
> 
> See the rusty line between the flange and the gear? That's the spacer. A hack way of upping the gear count without changing the carrier. But, good for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking 3.73:1 for excellent acceleration and with an overdrive tranny, half decent mileage to boot.
> Of course this means I need to find a donor vehicle with a 5.3 liter and 4L60e tranny.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I agree on the gear ratio....but I think I'd prefer a Detroit TruTrak…..you don't need the friction additive

My jeep has the 5.7L with 4L60E.....it's a good combo.....

Too bad you are not down here.....plenty of places to get used setups pulled from wrecked vehicles. A typical low mileage Vortec with tranny and wiring harness goes for about $2k


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> It's *NEVER *finished





Future renovations don't count, so, ya, it's finished.....oh yeah......:wink2:


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> I agree on the gear ratio....but I think I'd prefer a Detroit TruTrak…..you don't need the friction additive
> 
> My jeep has the 5.7L with 4L60E.....it's a good combo.....
> 
> Too bad you are not down here.....plenty of places to get used setups pulled from wrecked vehicles. A typical low mileage Vortec with tranny and wiring harness goes for about $2k



Everyone I find up here have at least 250K kilometers, so 160K American units of travel.


Only ads from western Canada have lower mileage. Are we some kinda gas hogs here in Ontario, or what?


I'm gonna buy a whole car so I can get all emissions items. They must be installed on any transplanted motor here in Kalifornia Junior, Komrade. A 5.3, 2003 and up has no EGR valve, so I'm basing my search there and newer. Not as new as VVT engines though. So, about 07-08 for the cut off. DOD bypass is no problem. Unless VVT is also an easy fix, but newer stuff is just too expensive and even with a couple hundred thousand miles, these LS style motors just keep on plugging away.


----------



## ddawg16

Now days, I don't think there is any difference between California cars and the rest of the nation.

In my case, I just had to make sure the engine was installed as it was in the Truck it came from....this included have the same exhaust (single). I pass smog with no issues....my 84 CJ gets tested as a 93 Chev P/U.

If you want, I'll keep an eye out for a setup.

I don't want to make you feel bad.....but...I paid $500 for my Engine/Tranny setup...


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> Now days, I don't think there is any difference between California cars and the rest of the nation.
> 
> In my case, I just had to make sure the engine was installed as it was in the Truck it came from....this included have the same exhaust (single). I pass smog with no issues....my 84 CJ gets tested as a 93 Chev P/U.
> 
> If you want, I'll keep an eye out for a setup.
> 
> I don't want to make you feel bad.....but...I paid $500 for my Engine/Tranny setup...



Not the California cars, the smog rules. Same as your I guess.


5 bills? Wow. What car did your engine come from?



Appreciate the offer but shipping and cross border nonsense kills any deals.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Sorry . . . . it was just a suggestion (the mods might want a new thread - dunno).
> 
> 
> So, remove the spacer to allow room for a larger pinion?



Yep. A larger pinion is found on a 3.73 gear set.
And it is indeed a 3 series carrier and better yet, it's an Eaton.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Not the California cars, the smog rules. Same as your I guess.
> 
> 
> 5 bills? Wow. *What car did your engine come from*?
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate the offer but shipping and cross border nonsense kills any deals.


93 Chevy PU


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> I'm gonna buy a whole car so I can get all emissions items. *They must be installed on any transplanted motor here in Kalifornia Junior, Komrade*. A 5.3, 2003 and up has no EGR valve, so I'm basing my search there and newer. Not as new as VVT engines though. So, about 07-08 for the cut off. DOD bypass is no problem. Unless VVT is also an easy fix, but newer stuff is just too expensive and even with a couple hundred thousand miles, these LS style motors just keep on plugging away.



Just out of interest, is the rule the equipment has to match the vintage of the engine or the vintage of the vehicle it is installed in?


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Just out of interest, is the rule the equipment has to match the vintage of the engine or the vintage of the vehicle it is installed in?



The engine/year/model of vehicle it was pulled from. 



Basically, it says something to the effect of "all emission parts/controls must be used."


I will use aftermarket cats. I've been pulled over and had them take a look more than once in the two different pickups I've owned. They've never said a word about them.


----------



## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> The engine/year/model of vehicle it was pulled from.
> 
> 
> 
> Basically, it says something to the effect of "all emission parts/controls must be used."
> 
> 
> I will use aftermarket cats. I've been pulled over and had them take a look more than once in the two different pickups I've owned. They've never said a word about them.


Same situation here in California.....

The CARB (California Air Resources Board) is quite happy for you to install a newer engine in an older car. Lower emissions...and the car owner typically ends up with a much better engine...better gas mileage...more HP...win win.

It just all has to be hooked up as it was on the donor veh...


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> I will use aftermarket cats. I've been pulled over and had them take a look more than once in the two different pickups I've owned. They've never said a word about them.



Probably because there are dozens of pieces of legislation plus quite literally hundreds of more detailed regulations governing motor vehicle operation and equipment, and most regular road warrior cops are simply not up on even a portion of them. Specialized teams perhaps but they are more focused on commercial carriers. Of course, you could have the bad luck to be stopped by somebody who has taken a special interest in the obscure, or a Ministry of the Environment enforcement officer.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Probably because there are dozens of pieces of legislation plus quite literally hundreds of more detailed regulations governing motor vehicle operation and equipment, and most regular road warrior cops are simply not up on even a portion of them. Specialized teams perhaps but they are more focused on commercial carriers. Of course, you could have the bad luck to be stopped by somebody who has taken a special interest in the obscure, or a Ministry of the Environment enforcement officer.



It's always MOE. I've been stopped three times. The last time was about 400 meters from a cruise night on a Saturday....wannabe cops, these guys...


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> It's always MOE. I've been stopped three times. The last time was about 400 meters from a cruise night on a Saturday....wannabe cops, these guys...



Cruise night - that's just not fair. There are bigger, and more polluting - fish for them to fry, but they'd have to work harder. Half the stone haulers that come from the pits up along the Morraine for starters.


----------



## BigJim

Good grief, down this way there is none of that, at least that I know of.


----------



## 123pugsy

Some used iron I found.
A little clean up and she'll be good to go.


----------



## BigJim

Looks like you have a good project on your hands. I don't recognize the engine other than it being a 4 bolt main V-8 4X4. Don't look like it has much wear on it, mains aren't even down to brass, no ring grove to mention. Looks like you lucked out. With all the gunk in the engine, they must have used Quaker State oil. Shouldn't be too hard to clean up. Maybe find an engine rebuilder and have them vat it for you.

I have seen sludge so hard I had to chisel it out, it is amazing what cheap oil with the paraffin additive will do especially in a cold environment like where you live. Seeing your project makes me want to go out there and jerk the engine out of my truck, hmmm ok so it don't. LOL I do still miss rebuilding engines though, that is still fun.

Don't forget the pictures.


----------



## 123pugsy

Pay someone to clean it? This is a DIY site, ha...


They are actually 6 bolt mains. Bolts from the sides thru the outside of the block. It's a 5.3 Vortec, LS style motor.




I ended up hanging the block over my solvent tank as the rotary pressure/hot washer blew a pump seal. What a chore. The last pic is after fixing the good machine and running it thru. The thing works great again.


----------



## cocobolo

Nice score pugsy...and Merry Christmas.


----------



## 123pugsy

Thanks.


Same to you Keith and everyone else following along on this thread.


----------



## BigJim

Wow, that hot pressure washer flat out did a fantastic job, looks great. I am old school mechanics, never seen a 6 bolt main. 

I know we are DIY but even in building homes, there was some things I hated to do and got someone else to do. Two of those things were running base molding and building drawers, it was just so boring to me. lol


----------



## ddawg16

That Vortec is one of the best engines made.


----------



## 123pugsy

ddawg16 said:


> That Vortec is one of the best engines made.



I sure hope so.


.020" overbore, LS2 heads and an LS6 cam should give about each 380HP/TQ and a nice smooth idle.


----------



## Richard F.

123pugsy said:


> Stone installed on exposed foundation.


This finished house is GORGEOUS! I looked through the 85 pages, ending looking at every 5 pages or so to get to the end. What a project! 

I started looking at the first several pages and thought you were redoing the little house. I wondered why since you seem to have this lovely vintage house in your profile pic.. I thought it must be a 2nd house, but it didn't seem so from the text. After a couple of dozen pages it dawned on me. Wow! It really, really does look like a solid old vintage house. I love the brick! I also like how it sits slanted on the lot, too. 

I suggest you put some finished house pics at the end of this thread, and put the car work pics in another thread. 85 pages is a lot to go through, and some will want to skip to the end to see the finished project.


----------



## 123pugsy

Richard F. said:


> This finished house is GORGEOUS! I looked through the 85 pages, ending looking at every 5 pages or so to get to the end. What a project!
> 
> I started looking at the first several pages and thought you were redoing the little house. I wondered why since you seem to have this lovely vintage house in your profile pic.. I thought it must be a 2nd house, but it didn't seem so from the text. After a couple of dozen pages it dawned on me. Wow! It really, really does look like a solid old vintage house. I love the brick! I also like how it sits slanted on the lot, too.
> 
> I suggest you put some finished house pics at the end of this thread, and put the car work pics in another thread. 85 pages is a lot to go through, and some will want to skip to the end to see the finished project.



:smile: Thanks for the praise. It's truly appreciated.

I have a friend who's business is slow at present and may hire him to finish the skirting around the porch soon. I will add photos at that time.
I'll stop the hot rod nonsense and leave it at this.


The skirting, painting the deck floor boards and staining the back deck and that's it. Stick a fork in it and call it done! YES!


----------



## 123pugsy

How the heck did you notice it's slanted on the lot? Don't recall posting any lot plans. :smile:


----------



## Richard F.

It's a very impressive "done" - really _thoroughly_ _done_, trims and all, which is not what always happens to all of us DIYers. 

I hope your friend can meet your standards for the deck skirting work! 

What color for the deck floor boards?

Have you seen Hollandlac Brilliant paint? It's expensive but is wearing SO MUCH better than Ben Moore. It makes for a lovely floor. We put it on our entry portico floor (and the white walls around it), and I _love_ it. We put a rug down the middle because it's quite slippery when wet. I love that it always looks wet! 

Ours is like this color in this one I found on the net, just slightly paler, and slightly bluer.








(I hope your friend can live up to your standards for the skirting!)

Re: the slant - it looks that way from some of the pics where you can just barely see the road edge from where you took the picture. Like in your profile pic of it here. It looks like it's mostly the corner and the side facing the road (which you said was close-ish), which makes the bulk of the house not face it, ans also recede from the road, offering an extra private end of the front porch, too. That is, if I saw it right.

I would have chairs on the more private end and a swinging bench or glider, which the kids will enjoy, on the end closer to the road.


----------



## 123pugsy

Richard F. said:


> It's a very impressive "done" - really _thoroughly_ _done_, trims and all, which is not what always happens to all of us DIYers.
> 
> I hope your friend can meet your standards for the deck skirting work!
> 
> What color for the deck floor boards?
> 
> Have you seen Hollandlac Brilliant paint? It's expensive but is wearing SO MUCH better than Ben Moore. It makes for a lovely floor. We put it on our entry portico floor (and the white walls around it), and I _love_ it. We put a rug down the middle because it's quite slippery when wet. I love that it always looks wet!
> 
> Ours is like this color in this one I found on the net, just slightly paler, and slightly bluer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I hope your friend can live up to your standards for the skirting!)
> 
> Re: the slant - it looks that way from some of the pics where you can just barely see the road edge from where you took the picture. Like in your profile pic of it here. It looks like it's mostly the corner and the side facing the road (which you said was close-ish), which makes the bulk of the house not face it, ans also recede from the road, offering an extra private end of the front porch, too. That is, if I saw it right.
> 
> I would have chairs on the more private end and a swinging bench or glider, which the kids will enjoy, on the end closer to the road.





Grey floor boards, similar to the picture.
Never heard of that paint brand before. Just googled. The nearest dealer is over an hour away....really sucks up here to buy anything.


The porch is basically to only make the house look nice. Too noisy for sitting. The deck out back is quieter.


----------



## Richard F.

123pugsy said:


> Grey floor boards, similar to the picture.
> Never heard of that paint brand before. Just googled. The nearest dealer is over an hour away....really sucks up here to buy anything.
> 
> 
> The porch is basically to only make the house look nice. Too noisy for sitting. The deck out back is quieter.


The porch does make your house look really nice. 

We used a lot of Hollandlac Brilliant because I LOVE it. If I had known about it before we did painted the entire interior (just before we worked on the exterior) I would have done it in that, instead. Even still, I am thinking of redoing the kitchen in it. Which means new either wood or their putty before painting. 

Recently we bought more paint at our most-local dealer, next town over, for our shed project. But, they no longer carried the _very necessary _special paint thinner (or ANY even compatible paint thinner!). Noone in CT does.

Apparently, CT just passed new environmental laws, like California has, and therefore no longer sells ANY real paint thinner, let along Fine Paints of Europe [FPE] paint thinner (the paint, yes, but not the thinner you NEED to use the paint) - just some substitute that would RUIN the expensive paint. I have learned from my experience an _exact_ way to use this paint, and it includes using _only_ FPE paint thinner.

So I made a two-hour round trip "straight" west (thru the hills) to the nearest FPE store in New York State for my $35 gallon of FPE thinner that we need we need to complete our shed trim and doors.

The next week I was back again, as I was not able to buy again the Permethrin on Amazon for the tick tubes we put out this time of year - they now won't mail it to CT. 

So I tell that as a "beware" to anyone whose local region is considering passing such laws. You will want to buy now or pick up in your travels the things that you use regularly that you cannot get locally anymore. Solvent-based floor sealers would be included, too, I would imagine.


----------



## 123pugsy

Ya, it's getting like that around here. We can't even buy weed killer.


----------



## 123pugsy

The last of the construction has begun.
I bent up some brackets at work for my neighbor who volunteered to help close up the porch as I'm absolutely sick of anything house related at this point.


The brackets hang down to support a cross 2x6 for the vertical boards to screw onto at the bottom. They will get a trim board top and bottom afterwards.


----------



## romeojk27

Looks awesome. Congrats


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> Looks awesome. Congrats
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks. Hopefully they'll be close to done this afternoon.


----------



## 123pugsy

Wahoo!!!!!
:smile:

Not another piece of stick to cut for this dang house.
:surprise:

Double Wahoo!!!!
:wink2:

Just some paint and stain and that's it.
:biggrin2:


Uh-oh............now what am I gonna do........


----------



## lenaitch

123pugsy said:


> Wahoo!!!!!
> :smile:
> 
> Not another piece of stick to cut for this dang house.
> :surprise:
> 
> Double Wahoo!!!!
> :wink2:
> 
> Just some paint and stain and that's it.
> :biggrin2:
> 
> 
> Uh-oh............now what am I gonna do........



Looks outstanding!


Well, you buy another place on spec and fix it up . . . 



As I recall, you have an El Camino and fishing to perfect. You'll think of something - I get the sense that you don't 'veg' well.


----------



## 123pugsy

lenaitch said:


> Looks outstanding!
> 
> 
> Well, you buy another place on spec and fix it up . . .
> 
> 
> 
> As I recall, you have an El Camino and fishing to perfect. You'll think of something - I get the sense that you don't 'veg' well.



Thanks.


Ha.......you know me....I got a porch and a deck and I can't sit on either.
Yes, El Camino. I just happen to be installing a wide band as we speak. I have a whole weekend of tuning the engine coming up.


----------



## Yodaman

Pugs, nice job staying with it until complete. I struggle in that dept. I refurbished 98% of this house, but never finished the shower in the last bathroom. I like the porch, built a similar, but smaller porch on the last house. All cypress clear coated. Come to think of it, I still need to build the porch on this house. I told my wife a few years back that I wasn't doing the porch until the garage was done..............guess I can't use that excuse much longer!


----------



## romeojk27

It’s time to take the cover off that boat and go do some cruising around and sight seeing! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## 123pugsy

Yodaman said:


> Pugs, nice job staying with it until complete. I struggle in that dept. I refurbished 98% of this house, but never finished the shower in the last bathroom. I like the porch, built a similar, but smaller porch on the last house. All cypress clear coated. Come to think of it, I still need to build the porch on this house. I told my wife a few years back that I wasn't doing the porch until the garage was done..............guess I can't use that excuse much longer!



Thanks.


So I take it the garage is about done then?


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## 123pugsy

romeojk27 said:


> It’s time to take the cover off that boat and go do some cruising around and sight seeing!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Thanks....I've been fishing the last 3 weekends in a row. I need to take a break *from *fishing this weekend, ha....


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## Colbyt

Congrats on the finish. Don't ever do that paint and stain that way you will always have something on your to do list.


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## 123pugsy

Colbyt said:


> Congrats on the finish. Don't ever do that paint and stain that way you will always have something on your to do list.



Thanks.


Nope, getting done and the list will be empty soon. :wink2:


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## Yodaman

123pugsy said:


> Thanks.
> 
> 
> So I take it the garage is about done then?



Mostly complete. Still need to put in benches, cabinets, shelving etc. Electric is done, but still need to tie in gas and water lines. Basically all the stuff that make it useful. 

Not sure when I will be able to get back in there. Tenants like to move out in the summer which keeps be busy.
Best case scenario on that porch would be next spring. Doing major updates on a 2 story house at the moment. New roof. Some new siding, some new paint which will pretty much run through the summer.


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## ddawg16

I know that feeling.....almost.

I still have some inside trim to complete........but life keeps getting in the way


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## 123pugsy

Oh yeah!.....only the front porch left to paint.


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## 123pugsy

Front porch floor boards painted grey.......


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## 123pugsy

Five years later and the house is 100% finished. Yes!
The gate is on the safety railing around the egress window.



:vs_karate: :vs_bananasplit:


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## Nik333

Just curious. . . what is the depth of the safety rail opening? What if you have a fat person in the basement? Are the rungs to climb out? So a person couldn't be bigger than the depth? I know contractors with beer bellies bigger than that.



Then the person has to be able to lift their leg over the rail to climb out? What about kids?

Is this a mandated thing? 



I'm not criticizing, just curious. It's a conundrum.


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## 123pugsy

Nik333 said:


> Just curious. . . what is the depth of the safety rail opening? What if you have a fat person in the basement? Are the rungs to climb out? So a person couldn't be bigger than the depth? I know contractors with beer bellies bigger than that.
> 
> 
> 
> Then the person has to be able to lift their leg over the rail to climb out? What about kids?
> 
> Is this a mandated thing?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not criticizing, just curious. It's a conundrum.





No worries.
It's a 24" wide door way with more width than that below.
Code here is 22" so I made sure it was more.
The gas pipe gives a perfect hand hold to give a pull and walk right out.


The rule is 2 forms of egress. Only one staircase to basement so the window is exit number two.


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## ddawg16

123pugsy said:


> Five years later and the house is 100% finished. Yes!
> The gate is on the safety railing around the egress window.
> 
> 
> 
> :vs_karate: :vs_bananasplit:


Not sure I'll ever be able to say that................but yours looks great


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## 123pugsy

Thanks ddawg. Just keep picking away one bite at a time. It's the only way to eat an elephant.


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## 123pugsy

Well, may as well post here, the fun I'm having now since the house is done.
Big winter project so my daughter can show up at the cruise in looking cool.

Before:


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## Nik333

What do you call that car/truck shape?


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## Bud9051

Looks like an El Camino 

Bud


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## 123pugsy

Yep. It's a 1969.


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