# trimming interior doors



## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

I framed a R.O. of 26 x 79.25 for an interior closet. I'm looking to put in a 24 x 78" door. However, the big box stores only have 24x80" doors, and the local suppliers around here seem to be geared towards commercial.

My question is, can a hollow door be trimmed 2 inches? If so, what is the correct procedure for doing so?


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

Big box stores here do carry 78" door blanks, as do lumberyards. Prehung doors may also be stock items, but are often special order.


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> Fix your framing.


Sure, I'll just simply not have a header at all.

...that didn't answer my question.


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

Just Bill said:


> Big box stores here do carry 78" door blanks, as do lumberyards. Prehung doors may also be stock items, but are often special order.


The selection in this area is terrible. I went through both home depot and lowes yesterday, and all they had were 80" prehungs, and the door slabs themselves were all 80".

The only lumberyard in this area closed down last year and moved out of the area.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

If you can not find the height you need ... yes the door 2-0 X 6,8 can be cut down.

I assume you have Hollow core Luan 1 3/8" or Masonite smooth or panel door in mind for this project.

1. Mark bottom of door (pencil line) where you need to cut.

2. draw utility knife along the pencil line carefully ( goal is to cut deep enough so when you cut with your circular saw it will not chip or splinter the surface.) Do this on the side that faces out.

3. cut with circular saw.

4. Sand edges smooth and straight.

5. salvage bottom style (block filler) to reinstall.
( Hopefully this is wood..might be pressed paper) Clean glue residue)

6. This (block might be 7/8" or 1 1/4" ) look inside bottom of door and
remove any paper honeycomb that might be in the way.. and clean inside surface with chisle or knife. Remove all dust. 

7. Dry fit bottom style in door... remove... apply wood glue... reinstall and clamp...wipe off excess glue of course with damp rag. ( if door is to be painted.. OK to add some small nails or brads ..set lightly..)

8. let dry over night. then hang your door. 


dang... I used to be able to do this faster than it took to type all this out.. getting old s....

good luck ..let us know how it goes.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

you can cut the bottom and add a piece of wood back inside the skin with glue and clamps. just go slow and get a snug fit when you make your insert


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

tpolk said:


> you can cut the bottom and add a piece of wood back inside the skin with glue and clamps. just go slow and get a snug fit when you make your insert


sure.. this mean ripping a piece* super straigh*t someting like:
1 1/8 " X 1 1/4" .... if table saw is set up fine...

usually easier to clean the old style up and reinstall..

hope this helps


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

Thanks guys for actually answering my question, instead of criticizing


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

LOL.. criticizing... heck ...we get enough from our ... (partners)...trying to be politically correct here...

this wonderful web site should be a safe haven from that...

Thank you Nathan... you don't get thanked enough.


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## moorewarner (Mar 12, 2010)

Tonglebeak said:


> I framed a R.O. of 26 x 79.25 for an interior closet. I'm looking to put in a 24 x 78" door. However, the big box stores only have 24x80" doors, and the local suppliers around here seem to be geared towards commercial.
> 
> My question is, can a hollow door be trimmed 2 inches? If so, what is the correct procedure for doing so?


I know this doesn't answer your question but bear with me.

I think what kwikfishron said was actually a reasonable answer (frankly, it's what I would do). You said you framed this, it's for a closet, generally their wouldn't be a header in the truest sense of the word.

Generally you would just use a 2x4 on the flat to form out the top of your door way, anyway whatever you have built there the framing fix is to cut 2" off of the cripples above the header then take a prybar and work just enough space between your king stud and jack stud (or trimmer) to slip in a sawzall blade. You can then just cut lose your door frame and slide it up the 2" you are short, reattach it, slide in 2" blocks on the bottom if you want to be nice about it and your problem is solved.

The above process if you have a reciprocating saw literally takes less time than the door fix and is more correct.

I think that is what kwikfishron meant.

If however you want to stick with hacking the door Big Bob has you covered. The only thing I would add to what he said is I personally would skip the tack nails and rely on the glue (as well as foam it, as below).

Additionally/alternately some guys will shoot some foam ("Great Stuff *Door & Window"* which wont deform your door) inside the door cavity at the ends that get cut. Sometimes you are left with a small block after you cut and freeing it can damage the door facing; so as an alternate you can just drill three small holes (left, right & center) in what's left of the block and add foam, binds everything together and makes it all nice and solid.

Couple last things, for a clean cut it can help to clamp on a board to use as a saw guide and also add a strip of painters tape on the keep side of the cut line, it will help reduce chipping in addition to the scoring Big Bob recommended.


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

thanks for the foam idea.

My header is just a top plate and a 2x4 flat. I only had close to 83 inches from floor to ceiling joist. With that said, i dont think i shouldve had to explain my reasons for the r.o., as it had nothing to do with my question, and i certainly didnt need someone to blindly tell me to "fix it"


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

Tonglebeak said:


> thanks for the foam idea.
> 
> My header is just a top plate and a 2x4 flat. I only had close to 83 inches from floor to ceiling joist. With that said, i dont think i shouldve had to explain my reasons for the r.o., as it had nothing to do with my question, and i certainly didnt need someone to blindly tell me to "fix it"


Personally, if I feel I know all the answers, I usually don't ask questions.

Therefore, since you were asking, I think Kwikfish was simply trying to assist what came across sounding like a novice handyman grasping for help with some thinking outside the box.

Most of us would have made a similar suggestion since you didn't mention any problems, whatsoever, with ceiling height. All you said was you had framed out an opening that would not work with a standard door.


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## Jim F (Mar 4, 2010)

I'm looking at a cutaway of an interior flush door in the Popular Mechanics book I borrowed from the library. The top and bottom rails are tennoned to the stiles. These rails look to be 3-4 inches in width. if you really wanted to just trim off 2 inches, you could probably get away with it. If you could pry off the laminate piece on the bottom, you could then rip off that much from the bottom and reglue the laminate. It looks like a lot of work though. I think I would sooner try to find the size door I need or increase the frame height.


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

I didn't know the answer for trimming a door, which is what I asked for explicitly. I was well aware that I'd be stuck with a 78" door. Sadly, this area sucks when it comes to a decent selection. And after the lumberyard bailed ship last year, there's really not anywhere to go. If I can trim 2" off a 80" door, then great! I just wanted to know how, since I know hollow cores and stuff can be tricky.

Asking how to trim a door had nothing to do with a frame size. That was my point. I'm sick of seeing answers that have nothing to do with the question.

That is all.


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## moorewarner (Mar 12, 2010)

Tonglebeak said:


> thanks for the foam idea.
> 
> My header is just a top plate and a 2x4 flat. I only had close to 83 inches from floor to ceiling joist. With that said, i dont think i shouldve had to explain my reasons for the r.o., as it had nothing to do with my question, and i certainly didnt need someone to blindly tell me to "fix it"


Yes, that was fairly cryptic offering. :laughing:

Although more info is good, sometimes I will be trying to get a solution to a problem in the way that I know of, and usually there is a different/better way that just didn't occur to me.

Certainly coming out of the IT field I have learned that the more info I have the better and more numerous the solutions that can be found. Carpentry/trades and computing share much in common, in both there is usually multiple ways to get to the same end point.

good luck.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

I had planned to have the following craved on my head stone, but as plans have changed to donate this used and abused body to science.. "much cheaper than the other stuff" allow me to share the following.

There are six ways to do anything... out of those six ways... three are better than the rest. whichever way the mechanic selects from those three is fine. The mechanic knows their skill level and tools at hand and what they are comfortable doing...so which ever of the three is picked should provide acceptable efficient results. No need to Mirco manage..
trust and have faith.

I developed this "fix it philosophy" during many years of project management in the insured loss restoration industry as a prefered contracor for the big name carriers.

It sounded like OP's opinion was reframe was not a good option before I posted. I totally agree reframe is #1 of the three ways. Definetly the most efficient way to go.

Moorewarmer's input and advice is certainly one of the three good ways.

Time is money.. I tack nailed usually when I didn't have 24 hrs for the glue to cure and I knew the door was scheduled for paint.

saw guides: (if your right handed) left hand clamped on the front of the saw foot..side of left index finger is the guide..steady hand and good eye= perfect cut. Skill level thing.. No clamps to slip or guides to move to mess up the cut. 

I find foam messy, I usually wear it for a week, and I hate using a $4 dollar can on a very small project..they should sell the nozzles or give you extras.. to help avoid the waste. But, they can sell more foam the way it is. IMHO

There is such a thing as to much information... I apologize if I have gone there.


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

Willie T said:


> Call me unrealistic, but I think I might have replied with something like this:
> 
> "_Fix your framing_."
> 
> ...


I could've replied with that, except it irked me that the reply to "how to trim a door down" was "fix your framing" instead of what Big Bob laid out. It's the equivalent of asking "how do I drive" and being told "fix your car"

In any case, my original question was answered, and I appreciate that.

Thanks to those who have helped.


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## Tonglebeak (Dec 28, 2009)

kwikfishron said:


> There are lots of pro’s on this site offering free advice to DIY’s which is great but I bet not one of the “pro’s” can tell me they have never framed a opening wrong and I also bet none of the “pro’s” will say they will spend half a day and void a warranty to avoid a ten min. fix.
> 
> Good Luck Grumpy.


Yeah, so what's your ten minute fix that you wanted to post twice about? You already know I have only close to 83 inches of clearance from floor to ceiling joist. Am I not supposed to have a top plate and a 2x4 to attach the door and trim to?


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## moorewarner (Mar 12, 2010)

Big Bob said:


> I find foam messy, I usually wear it for a week, and I hate using a $4 dollar can on a very small project..they should sell the nozzles or give you extras.. to help avoid the waste. But, they can sell more foam the way it is. IMHO


I got some I'm still wearin'. :laughing: 

Man, you all sure get worked up at each other over here on DIY. I'm goin' back to CT where every body is sweet and happy.


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## moorewarner (Mar 12, 2010)

Tonglebeak said:


> Yeah, so what's your ten minute fix that you wanted to post twice about? You already know I have only close to 83 inches of clearance from floor to ceiling joist. Am I not supposed to have a top plate and a 2x4 to attach the door and trim to?


Honestly, if your top casing having no were to go wasn't an issue and you didn't still come up a 1/2" short, from a "will it work" perspective you sure could omit the top of your door frame.

Run your jacks all the way up to the top plate, screw-n-glue those jacks into the king studs and slap in your 1x, absolutely. 

The problem is it *looks* worse than cutting the door at that point, so yeah, cut the door and call it a day. :thumbsup:


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## Hemingway (Feb 18, 2009)

Big Bob said:


> sure.. this mean ripping a piece* super straigh*t someting like:
> 1 1/8 " X 1 1/4" .... if table saw is set up fine...
> 
> usually easier to clean the old style up and reinstall.


I might be using a different type of door blank than you, but after cutting the 1" kick rail off the bottom of the door, the stile seems nearly impossible to reuse. I ended up cutting my own replacement, but it sure would have been easier to just use the old stile. How did you clean this up?


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

Hemingway said:


> I might be using a different type of door blank than you, but after cutting the 1" kick rail off the bottom of the door, the stile seems nearly impossible to reuse. I ended up cutting my own replacement, but it sure would have been easier to just use the old stile. How did you clean this up?


Take your time.. don't force anything... start at one edge...and have a very sharp chisle and/ or knife. ( I have a very sharpe bone knife on my tool belt..) Very handy thing... (wood can be easier than pressed paper.)

Some glue applications take their job very seriously. All construction or destruction, advice is what works most of time.. If it was easy and you didn't have to adapt...heck ..it wouldn't be any fun.

Sounds like you had to go to step two..it happens.. glad you made it work.


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## Big Bob (Jul 27, 2007)

moorewarner said:


> I got some I'm still wearin'. :laughing:
> 
> Man, you all sure get worked up at each other over here on DIY. I'm goin' back to CT where every body is sweet and happy.


Your presents and knowledgable input is neded here... please recosider and share your experiance with those in need.

forgive those that offend or appear to be argumentative... and try to realize that might not be their intention.

Just lot's of ways to do things...


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## moorewarner (Mar 12, 2010)

Big Bob said:


> Your presents and knowledgable input is neded here... please recosider and share your experiance with those in need.
> 
> forgive those that offend or appear to be argumentative... and try to realize that might not be their intention.
> 
> Just lot's of ways to do things...


I was just being facetious, just another day on the playground. :thumbsup:

It ain't recess till someone gets a skinned knee. :laughing:


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