# Stripped out door hinge screws



## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

More then likely he did this . take some wood glue and some saw dust from your belt sander and mix it up then push it into the old screw holes. 

What I do is take some tooth picks and glue them into the hole then trim them flush; another poster a ways back suggested using golf tee's which I thought was a good fix. good luck BOB


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## Handyman Jim Noonan (May 8, 2008)

Bob has some good suggestions. I think both he and KC and a few others, have also suggested glueing in wooden dowels in previous threads on this subject,which is the traditional method.


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## downunder (Jun 13, 2008)

The old toothpick almost always works for me. One is usually handy, don't have to wait on glue to dry (but if time is not a problem I really DO prefer the glue methods. Glue and sawdust is good if you have glue and sawdust available.). Sometimes I have used a plastic drywall anchor. I usually keep an assortment of sizes for different things I may run into. But, if I have the time, I prefer the glue and (sawdust, dowel, golf tee).:yes:

Just my 1.5 cents worth.


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## troubleseeker (Sep 25, 2006)

Golf tees are a good repair, but it sounds like the size of your holes may be beyond the typical. I would drill them out and glue in wood dowels, then go back with the proper size screw for the hinge.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Wood dowels work pretty well, and I like the golf tee idea. Drill out the holes to correspond to the diameter of the golf tee or wood dowel. Use plenty of wood glue and drive it home. Once it is dry, cut it flush and trim with a utility knife or chisel. Use a small drill bit to drill a tiny pilot hole, using care to center it where the screw needs to go. I suggest the tiny bit because it is easier to control. You can drill it out bigger after the hole is located.

Don't get too eager and forget to let the glue set overnight!


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## krankykitty (May 16, 2008)

Ya know, now that i think hard about it, sawdust probably was involved. I seem to remember him shoving the goo into the hole with a wire (maybe part of a wire coathanger??) The last time I used the toothpick trick (different house) I must not have stuck enough of them in there, as it was a short term solution. I don't golf, so the dowel sounds like a great idea to me, and now that i think about it, I have done that on other projects and had it work great.

<sigh> Why is it always the simple things that stump me the quickest??

In any case, thanks for all the helpful suggestions  I knew I could count on you guys!


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## AOVA (Apr 16, 2010)

*Easy and quick solution*

Fritan Technology has a product called Fringe Screw that can be used as an alternative repair for loose or stripped door hinge screws. It features a standard size #9 head and oversize threads. This allows the screw to sit flush in the door hinge but also embed in the enlarged screw hole, resulting in a tight, sturdy door. This screw will fix your door in less than 5 minutes without removing the door.


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

I'll second (or third or fourth) the golf tee/dowel with glue. I then use a vix bit with the hinge as a template...it will assure a straight drive for your hinge screws and the vix bit "seats" in the hinge holes. 

I've used this method many times, works great. :yes:

http://www.amazon.com/64-Vix-Bit-Screws/dp/B0032YX72E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1271468479&sr=1-2

J


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## Jay123 (May 7, 2008)

You may be able to get a vix bit at HD or lowe's, I believe I've picked them up there over the years in addition to woodcraft or online.

J


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

The golf tee sounds good to me, but not being a golfer, I don't have these handy.
I usually rip a piece of scrap and make a spline. Then I whittle something akin to a golf tee on the end!
Then I dip it into white glue and hammer it in the hole! Cut it level with the surface and then drill a new hole for the screw!


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## Willie T (Jan 29, 2009)

You can buy 'glued dowels' that activate with water. They are short, stout, and can be cut off easily when they dry. Just wet them, tap them into properly sized drilled out holes, let dry, and cut off. Then re-hang your door like it was a new install.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Usually toothpicks and glue take care of 99% of these problems, but if it's as bad as you say (6" screws?!!!) then I have a suggestion: remove one side of the casing, see how much space there is between the frame and the stud, and insert a 1x4, 5/8", 1/2" plywood strip, whatever fits, in there and screw thru the frame and into the stud above and below the hinge. Then put a regular 3/4" hinge scew into the hinge. If the space is REALLY tight, you might have to resort to a piece of steel and drill for the screws.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

There are inserts with a coarse thread on the outside and machine screw threads on the inside. The OD is about 1/4" or larger and it has slots so you first screw it in with a slotted screwdriver. The larger OD spreads the force trying to pull them out.
Maybe Jandorff makes them. It's like a helicoil but it is a solid piece.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZU75?Pid=search

Or you could remove the casing and put a bolt/nut/fender washer with Loktite to hold it.


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## Beavers_hockey (Jan 16, 2012)

*Really cheap and cheesy*

I haven't tried it yet but I intend to use some good glue and matches (with the heads cut off, obviously). I'm thinking either a couple of the soft ones from a match book or a wooden match (ala the tooth pick idea). 

Get a good amount of glue in the hole, swab it around with the match(es) and let them sit overnight. Take a razor blade and cut to flush, the next day. I'm thinking the soft flat ones from a match book are the way to go.


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## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Beavers_hockey said:


> I haven't tried it yet but I intend to use some good glue and matches (with the heads cut off, obviously). I'm thinking either a couple of the soft ones from a match book or a wooden match (ala the tooth pick idea).
> 
> Get a good amount of glue in the hole, swab it around with the match(es) and let them sit overnight. Take a razor blade and cut to flush, the next day. I'm thinking the soft flat ones from a match book are the way to go.


I'm thinking the soft flat ones from a match book are the way to go

Don't do this! The screws pulled originally because they were in soft wood.
Use a wood that is strong and hard. Cut a taper in the end, like a pencil, put glue in the hole, drive the wood in. Cut of level and let it dry.
Then, drill pilot holes before driving in the screws.


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## BaltimoreBamBam (Jan 11, 2012)

krankykitty said:


> Ok, laugh... but I know there is a fairly simple solution to this, even if I can't think of what it is...
> 
> The holes the screws go in to hold an upper door hinge are totally stripped out. Old door, old hardware, old wood frame around the door, all of which i would like to keep...
> 
> ...


This happened at my old place. All I did was get bigger screws that still fit the holes. It worked. Reading some others, saw dust and glue does seem like a pretty good idea.


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## Beavers_hockey (Jan 16, 2012)

*Thanks... a little more info...*

I appreciate the input. You've caused me to re-think this whole thing.

The reason why the screws came out is because I am an amputee in a wheel chair. I go backwards in the house to take advantage of the strength of pushing with my leg instead of pulling. As a result of going backwards I crash into things. :thumbup:

The little hoops on the outside of the wheels that you grab onto with your hands to turn the wheels forever catch things as I go by (notice the little piles of sheetrock on the corners of hallways. lol

I should be more careful but :no:

Anyway, your email and one ofthe postings above caused me to rethink this. Since I know I'll continue to do it, the real solution is to pull the skin of the door off and put a metal piece on the inside that's tapped. Then I can screw thru the hinge, thru the hole and into a metal piece that runs along the frame. That should be sturdy enough to withstand what I dish out. 

I am open to your suggestions though! Taking the door off is not an option, BTW.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

with such large screws installed i would completely avoid the toothpick and glue or golf t method.. ive tried them both and didnt work.

ive hung over 1000 doors, and repaired roughly 500. having such a large size screw into the framing has pretty much killed any chances of getting a new screw to grab any meat. i would either use a long drill bit and drill through the jamb right into the framing then using epoxy install dowling. or the other method which is more involved would be to use a "dutchman" wood patch.. this involves routing out a section of the jamb and installing a new peice of wood where you just removed a section of it. this is a more advanced technique and requires a router and special bits


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## coupe (Nov 25, 2011)

how about small lead wedge achors or plastic anchors?


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

woodworkbykirk said:


> with such large screws installed i would completely avoid the toothpick and glue or golf t method.. ive tried them both and didnt work.
> 
> ive hung over 1000 doors, and repaired roughly 500. having such a large size screw into the framing has pretty much killed any chances of getting a new screw to grab any meat. i would either use a long drill bit and drill through the jamb right into the framing then using epoxy install dowling. or the other method which is more involved would be to use a "dutchman" wood patch.. this involves routing out a section of the jamb and installing a new peice of wood where you just removed a section of it. this is a more advanced technique and requires a router and special bits


That's along the lines of what I was thinking. I think he used a 6" drywall screw which shouldn't have made such a big hole. With the number of gadgets for storage that are designed to hang off the tops of doors, or the god awful hinge mounted door stops, whatever is used as a fix has to hold the additional stress on the hinge other than the weight of the door itself.


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## rubberhead (Mar 3, 2011)

I didn't read all the posts because it it is hard for me to read. I personally would hammer a golf tee into the hole with some glue on it.


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## woodworkbykirk (Sep 25, 2011)

plastic and lead anchors are meant for concrete and plaster..not for in wood


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## jschaben (Mar 31, 2010)

I repaired a couple of doors in a rental unit that were constantly getting ripped off the hinges. I removed the door trim and slipped a piece of lathe with t-nuts installed between the door frame and rough framing. Installed flat head machine screws. :thumbsup:


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