# Saw Blades



## UpComingBuilder (Dec 9, 2008)

I have a skill saw and when I bought it I got another blade for half off. The guy told me to get DW15912 (Just an example; it is the number on the blade) for it to fit the saw.

My question is with miter saws, table saws, skill saws, and about any other tool that needs a saw do I need to get matching serial numbers and matching brand name blades? 

Can I just buy any 7-1/4" blade for my skill saw? 10" blade for my table saw? 10" and 12'' blade on a miter saw?

I'm pretty sure I don't need to get the same brand, but then again why would DeWALT have their own blades along with Makita and so fourth.

Its just confusing for me. When the guy told me to get the blade with matching serials on it, I still listened but thats been a question on my mind for a while, I guess having a DeWALT skill saw would make it look dumb with a Makita blade on it right?


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## UpComingBuilder (Dec 9, 2008)

Another question but this is about table saws. I didn't want to make 2 posts.

I'm going to buy a table saw very soon, I need it to cut laminate flooring. I know you guys told me to get a cheap saw, which I am. I went to Lowe's earlier and they have a DeWALT for 500$, Hitachi for 229$, 2 SkilSaw brands. One for 150$ and the other for 99$.

I'll use the saw for personal use but for a business no. So the saw is not going to be used like a car if that makes sense.

I already took the DeWALT out because 500$? I don't need to spend that much. They are all 10" blade diamter. All 15 Amp. They are all about the same L" and w". 26"x19" average. I'm guessing the difference is the brand names for the pricing. they're all pretty much the same to me! 

Whats the difference though. I don't understand the 200-400$ differnce between.

And what do these mean? >> Safety listings? CSA, ETL, and UL. Some say all yes, no. I'm guessing these are very important as well. I want a safe saw. :O UL Safety Listing:YesCSA Safety Listing:YesETL Safety Listing

I'm really sorry guys, my questions are alittle too much sometimes but I'm just a curious kid.. :whistling2:


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## NailedIt (Jun 19, 2009)

Hello there... I just bought a cheapo table saw for much the same purpose you did, I have 500-1000 sqft of laminate floor to put in and a couple hundred feet of jamb extension/ sills to run out. I'm not going to use the saw for business, just for this personal job. For me the $114 HD Ryobi fits the bill as it can pretty much be thought of as disposable, or otherwise I'll loan it out to family or friends with a need for it. I'm a pro framing carpenter and I know what brand envy and all that's about, but I also know that I have absolutely no use for a top-o-the-line table saw as cabinet fabrication isn't my thing and my tape measure doesn't read 1/32nds. All the saws you're talking about have a direct drive motor and are considered "portable" or "bench-top" so they're all pretty much not made for furniture building, etc... They're made for portability and convenience at the cost of precision and durability. The best value, IMO, is the Hitachi at Lowe's for $229; it's a pro-quality jobsite saw with all the standard features you're likely to want or need from a top brand in pro tools for a moderate price. Some of the saws you're looking at also have the folding stand with wheels that adds to the cost (like $100+).

As far as blades go... On my framing crew I'd go through lots of sawblades. I've used all the major brand names and all the generic ones too. The name brands don't have to match. You just have to make sure you get the right size for your tool. 12" blades wont fit on 10" saws, etc... I prefer whatever blade is the best price that fits my needs. I'm not brand-loyal so I'll get the 2-fer or BOGO. The coatings on the pressure treated blades do help, btw. The old-style non-vented thick steel blades, such as the $3.99 Oldham are okay as throw-aways, such as when you are about to cut through something you are certain will destroy your blade, but you do get what you pay for to a certain extent. SO... in short, most of the name brands are good, but only if you get the right blade for the task. (Definitely more so with reciprocating sawblades!)


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

UpComingBuilder said:


> I have a skill saw and when I bought it I got another blade for half off. The guy told me to get DW15912 (Just an example; it is the number on the blade) for it to fit the saw.
> 
> My question is with miter saws, table saws, skill saws, and about any other tool that needs a saw do I need to get matching serial numbers and matching brand name blades?
> 
> ...


I just buy the no-name brand 5 paks of rough saw blades
I've never matched up any blade to the specific saw Mfg
Possibly their blades are made better?
But unless its carbide tipped or something I figured they were pretty much the same
Could be made from different steels which might effect wear ??


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

I get the DeWalt blades for my 7¼" Makita circ. saw and Bosch recriprocating and jig saw blades. I also use use Forrest Woodworker II for finish work on my old Craftsman 100 table saw. For rough work, I use a Freud 24 rip and a 50 combo blade. For my SCMS I use a 12" Forrest. 

A quality sharp blade will let your tool work easier, last longer and give better end results.


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## UpComingBuilder (Dec 9, 2008)

Can u guys tell me the different saw blade types when cutting specific pieces?

Like for P.T lumber, laminates, etc.

I was going to go for the Hitachi. But the SkilSaw brand looks like its easy to use, well the fence anyway. Maybe there was something missing when I was looking at tab;e saw. I didn't know how to keep the fence in place, there was no lever.


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## ultimatesooner (Aug 18, 2009)

we just put ~900sf of 12mm laminate in the gf's new house and I used the diablo laminate blades, they worked great but we pretty much wore them out by the end of the job. I figured the extra $$ on the blades were worth it since she bought some better quality laminate.

I paid $60 for the 10" for the miter saw and $20 for the 7 1/4 for the table saw


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## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

10" saw blades come in different thicknesses. For a portable table saw look for a thinner kerf around .100". This will be easier on the motor. Saw blades have different number of teeth, different hook or rake angles and different types of grinds. Each one will give a different result.

Can you give more specifics on the material, type of cut (rip/crosscut) the quality of cut you need (are the edges exposed or hidden) and how often are you planning on doing them?


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## NailedIt (Jun 19, 2009)

I frame with a 24 tooth super-thin kerf circular sawblade. That's generally cutting S-P-F, HF, SYP 2x and OSB or plywood. I [almost] always use a new blade to cut rafters or stairs. The pressure treated blades that I've used the most are coated with a film that lubes the blade. I wouldn't bother with that kind of blade unless you're going to cut 1000's of feet of treated. Pretty much circular sawblades are labelled for what they're intended, though if you spin an old-fashioned plywood blade backwards it becomes a vinyl-siding/soffit blade. 

I just laid 180sqft of 12mm laminate today and used the el cheapo Ryobi table saw with the stock blade to rip the planks and also to rip some HDF shims. I plan to destroy this blade before I stick the new laminate blade in. The saw performed about as I expected. I can't say how long it will last, but it cuts square and smoothly. The motor in this sad little saw is a 13A sidewinder and it starts hard and is very, very loud. I'm happy with it so far, but if I knew for SURE I had a little more wiggle room in my budget I would have gotten a more "advanced" saw.


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## Thurman (Feb 9, 2009)

I operate a "Home HandyMan" business and utilize a box trailer to haul my tools and supplies around. I bought a Delta (no ad here) 10" table saw a few years back from Lowe's, on sale for maybe $88. As others have stated, I don't build cabinets but would need a table saw at times. A table saw that was light enough to take in and out of the trailer _and_ do the job were my requirements. This one works. I have two brands of skillsaws and do not buy brand specific blades for them. I also tend to buy the multi-packs of blades for the monies, but I don't buy off brands, or known cheap blades. Blades are like everything else-pay for quality, get quality. I do buy carbide blades for general use, and have specific blades for trimming doors, cutting veneers, etc. I have both Milwaulkee and DeWalt sawzalls, I buy blades made by both, depending on which blade I need and what is on sale. The all work just fine. The guy who told you to buy the specfic blade for the specific saw was IMO, the "big box store technician of the day" within that department. The are taught to sell, sell, sell, and are not trained properly, IMO. Thanks , David


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## machold (Oct 26, 2009)

10" table saw: can I use a 12" blade oon it? I know someone here said, the bigger blade won't fit. What if it does? I haven't tried it yet, but I need to shave 2x4's across the wider surface, and the 10 incher only cuts to 3". the saw is a Mastercraft, store brand for Crappy Tire.


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## ARI001 (Jun 26, 2009)

machold said:


> 10" table saw: can I use a 12" blade oon it? I know someone here said, the bigger blade won't fit. What if it does? I haven't tried it yet, but I need to shave 2x4's across the wider surface, and the 10 incher only cuts to 3". the saw is a Mastercraft, store brand for Crappy Tire.


No. You will need to shave the 2x4 in two passes.


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