# Removing Laminate Backsplash???



## Bob Mariani

Use a multi-master tool to cut the laminate around the cabinets and/or trim. Thinset will not hold over the laminate. You could add 1/4" cement backer board over the laminate. You will need to extend the electrical for tile installation anyway. Just get box extensions so the outlets are still flush. Use lacquer thinner behind the laminate to free the contact cement from the drywall.


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## mjkpainting

Bob Mariani said:


> Use a multi-master tool to cut the laminate around the cabinets and/or trim. Thinset will not hold over the laminate. You could add 1/4" cement backer board over the laminate. You will need to extend the electrical for tile installation anyway. Just get box extensions so the outlets are still flush. Use lacquer thinner behind the laminate to free the contact cement from the drywall.




Thank you so much.

I think I'm going to take the avenue of cutting the laminate.

I checked out the multimaster tool made by fein. The tool is $400. Any shot I can get away with using my craftsman cutting tool/dremel???????


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## Bob Mariani

A bit slower and you will need extra bits but it will work fine. Cheaper multi-masters are available at places like Harbor Depot. The cheaper ones will not last as long, will not cut as straight and use cheaper blades, but will work for most DIY jobs. Several cuts with a sharp utility knife will work also. A metal blade on a sawsall could be used, but is a bit tricky for HO.


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## bjbatlanta

The Dremel Multi Max is about $100.00 at HD or Lowes. Harbor Freight has an even cheaper one for around $60.00, I think....


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## Gary in WA

Before you open the tool, demo the laminate. Starting at the bottom, loosen and pull the top edge downward. It probably only goes up behind the cabinets an inch or so. May have to re-caulk the end uppers to the side wall. Start at the window casing, you can tell how tall the piece is. Be safe, GBAR


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## Ron6519

I have never seen a countertop/backsplash go behind the upper cabinets. Stock cabinets are not made to do this.
It will go behind the microwave over the stove, though.
Take out the microwave.
Remove the cover plates.
Unscrew the counter from under the cabinets.
Power saw as close to the backsplash as you can.
Remove the counter.
Pry the backsplash away from the wall.
You should be done.
Ron


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## bjbatlanta

ALL of the backsplashes I have removed as shown above in the pictures (including in my own house) have run behind the top cabinets (perhaps an inch or so), window trim, etc. It is installed before the top cabinets are set. That way they don't have to measure and cut TO the bottom of the top cabinet. It speeds production. They come in with pre-cut sheets and stick it to the wall, then hang the top cabinet. Granted these are older homes, so maybe it isn't done any more. As shown in the pictures posted above, there is no actual backsplash on the countertop itself. Just the piece of metal trim the laminate sits in on top of the countertop. No need for any cutting at the countertop level, just under the top cabinets and around the window. Personally I would pull the window trim rather than cut next to it.
The laminate is glued with contact cement and will damage the drywall paper when you remove it. You will need to deal with the damage accordingly when you decide what you are going to replace the laminate with. There are different options...


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## mjkpainting

Thanks so much guys. This was soooo helpful. 

I think I am going to cut the laminate backsplash. 


My last two questions are:

Can I use a toe kick saw to remove the laminate backsplash that runs behind the cabinets????? I used one when I took up my subfloor when I redid the kitchen floor. I found this toe kick saw for a descent price. I'll probably use it a handfull of times so I'm not worried if it's not the best quality.

Here is the toe kick saw I found online
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94626



Are the countertops easy to take off without damaging the lower cabinets??? What happens if they used liquid nails?? Would that cause a huge problem with taking them out?

What do you think????





bjbatlanta said:


> ALL of the backsplashes I have removed as shown above in the pictures (including in my own house) have run behind the top cabinets (perhaps an inch or so), window trim, etc. It is installed before the top cabinets are set. That way they don't have to measure and cut TO the bottom of the top cabinet. It speeds production. They come in with pre-cut sheets and stick it to the wall, then hang the top cabinet. Granted these are older homes, so maybe it isn't done any more. As shown in the pictures posted above, there is no actual backsplash on the countertop itself. Just the piece of metal trim the laminate sits in on top of the countertop. No need for any cutting at the countertop level, just under the top cabinets and around the window. Personally I would pull the window trim rather than cut next to it.
> The laminate is glued with contact cement and will damage the drywall paper when you remove it. You will need to deal with the damage accordingly when you decide what you are going to replace the laminate with. There are different options...


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## bjbatlanta

I suppose you COULD use the saw, but you'll be throwing a lot of dust when it hits the drywall. They make a tool for scoring laminate, plexiglass, etc. by hand. It has a carbide tip. It's more work, but less mess. I've done it before. If you get the countertops out of the way and start removing the laminate from the bottom, score 3 or 4 times at the bottom of the top cabinets and the stuff should break on your score line. Your countertops should be screwed from the bottom and SHOULDN'T have any adhesive...


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## Blue Spruce

*what's a girl to do?*

WOW! I was so happy to see the photos and then read the post below. I was beginning to think I lived in the strangest house ever!!! No one had ever heard of this sort of back splash going on forever, all over the place.

I just want it gone. . . I want a laminate or solid surface countertop w/ normal (4") attached backsplash, and paint on the walls. I know how to paint, but am not able to do or afford (labor) for anything more.

Seems like it should be simple. The cabinets all stay and aren't attached to the walls in a visible way, no backs but have brackets attached to sides and walls w/ adjustable shelves. . .(strange).

I tried to remove the metal from the top of a section and got almost an inch of it to come up. It was really difficult to pry up. I was amazed it went in so deep for such a tiny thin cap, it's an inch or so deep. Now I have a piece of sharp, mutilated metal that won't cut or go back down.:whistling2:

I don't know what's behind it, but I can't get there. I'd like to think drywall and that I can get it off and paint. But I can't even get going. How do I remove it??? Will I need to hire someone with a saw cut it out?

I guess there is also the problem that my tools consist of a hammer, screwdriver, tape measure and level. None of them plug into a wall outlet.

Thanks, Patti :surrender:




bjbatlanta said:


> ALL of the backsplashes I have removed as shown above in the pictures (including in my own house) have run behind the top cabinets (perhaps an inch or so), window trim, etc. It is installed before the top cabinets are set. That way they don't have to measure and cut TO the bottom of the top cabinet. It speeds production. They come in with pre-cut sheets and stick it to the wall, then hang the top cabinet. Granted these are older homes, so maybe it isn't done any more. As shown in the pictures posted above, there is no actual backsplash on the countertop itself. Just the piece of metal trim the laminate sits in on top of the countertop. No need for any cutting at the countertop level, just under the top cabinets and around the window. Personally I would pull the window trim rather than cut next to it.
> The laminate is glued with contact cement and will damage the drywall paper when you remove it. You will need to deal with the damage accordingly when you decide what you are going to replace the laminate with. There are different options...


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## bjbatlanta

The metal trim is nailed to the wall. Hence the suggestion in above post to remove the counter tops first. You can then pry the metal off and work the laminate from the bottom up. Again, the laminate is glued to the drywall with contact cement and will cause a lot of damage you'll have to deal with to get it ready for paint.....


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## cabinetman

bjbatlanta said:


> The metal trim is nailed to the wall. Hence the suggestion in above post to remove the counter tops first. You can then pry the metal off and work the laminate from the bottom up. Again, the laminate is glued to the drywall with contact cement and will cause a lot of damage you'll have to deal with to get it ready for paint.....



In my experience in both removal of old cabinets during renovation and installing my work: 

The base cabinets get installed

The counter top gets installed (screwed from inside the base cabinet, for that type of top...not including stone, or polymer tops)

The back splash gets installed. The back splashes with the chrome cove moulding seems to be the question here. Laminate is not just glued to the wall. It is glued to a substrate, hopefully plywood. If the chrome moulding was used, it is a concave cove with a continuous flat thin straight mounting flange strip at its base that could be nailed to the underside of the backsplash, or, it's usually nailed to the countertop. The backsplash in whatever thickness does not go behind the upper cabinets. The upper cabinets sit on top of the backsplash.

The upper cabinets may be nailed into the top of the backsplash, maybe not. To remove just the backsplash, using a backup plate on the wall, and using a crowbar will usually force the splash out from the upper cabinets. Cutting the splash horizontally could also work. Whichever way it is removed care has to be taken that the upper cabinets do not come loose from the wall. There may be very little holding them up without the support from the backsplash.


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## bjbatlanta

Perhaps I should have said that the metal trim COULD be nailed to the wall (through the drywall). The cabinet top is then butted to the wall and the nailing flange for the metal strip is behind the top. I have found that to be in some instances. I was assuming that is the reason you're having such a problem removing it. Cabinetman could be correct also. Things are done differently in different areas of the country. I was speaking from my own experience. I have removed it in more than one instance where it WAS behind the upper cabinets as I stated above.
And I seriously doubt the laminate is glued to plywood. It is likely just glued to the DRYWALL underneath. I wasn't suggesting it was glued to the wall without any backing.....


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