# Repainting Aluminum Lamp Post



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Sand it, clean off the residual dust, repaint with RustOleum.


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

Gymschu said:


> Sand it, clean off the residual dust, repaint with RustOleum.



Agree but the sanding should be light, just enough to smooth any imperfections. If you have bare metal showing you will need to prime.

For aluminum Rustoleum really isn't required but it is a good grade of spray paint.


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

Gymschu said:


> Sand it, clean off the residual dust, repaint with RustOleum.


Thanks, Gymschu.

When it comes to the sanding, what grit would be best for this type of job?

As for cleaning, I noticed that one site suggested leaving the post to dry for 3(!) days to allow for drying, but that seems like an awfully long time. Is that realistic?

After the cleaning, is there no need for primer before repainting?

Thanks again for the help.

Cheers!
MB


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

Colbyt said:


> Agree but the sanding should be light, just enough to smooth any imperfections. If you have bare metal showing you will need to prime.
> 
> For aluminum Rustoleum really isn't required but it is a good grade of spray paint.


Thanks for the input, Colby. I enjoy learning as I take on these sorts of projects, so your insight is appreciated. 

For the sanding, is the goal to strip off all of the original paint, or simply to prepare the surface of the post for priming/painting, regardless of what's left of the original paint?

I also noticed you mentioned spray-paint, which is another facet I was wondering about. Is spray-paint the standard for this sort of project? Looking at the original coat that is wearing off, I did think it looked like spray-paint, but I wasn't entirely sure.

Thanks again for the help!

MB


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## Colbyt (Jan 27, 2014)

If you are careful not to get runs, several light coats of spray paint will provide a smoother finish than you will ever achieve with a brush. The factory coat was probably a powder coat spray and bake job. Spray paint is a close as you will get in the field.

I think I am coming up on the 7 year mark and still looking decent for the mailbox post I did this way.


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

That is a beautiful lamp post.

It was probably "powder coated" originally.

Is there any bare metal showing?
If so paint will never stick until any oxidation is removed, A fine grit wet sanding will be my choice. A lot of elbow action involved but worth it.

As for paint, RUSTOLEUM is a good choice as well. 

You do not need to get rid of all the old paint, but the edges need to be smoothed to hide the transition from bare to not bare when new is applied or it will show as fine lines.

Looking forward to seeing the restored beauty after your finish.


ED


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

Colbyt said:


> If you are careful not to get runs, several light coats of spray paint will provide a smoother finish than you will ever achieve with a brush. The factory coat was probably a powder coat spray and bake job. Spray paint is a close as you will get in the field.
> 
> I think I am coming up on the 7 year mark and still looking decent for the mailbox post I did this way.


Great stuff, Colby. Thanks very much for the help.


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,... What I see is takin' all the glass/ globes out of it, 'n tapin' off the things that don't wanta get painted,...

For Prepin' the surface,...
Wash/ scrub down every inch of what ya want painted, with a green scotch scrubby pad, 'n dishsoap,...
Rinse, let dry, 'n paint,...

Those scrubby pads are great, insteada sandpaper,...

I'd spray it with Rustoleum, no primer needed, unless bare metal, then spot prime,...


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

de-nagorg said:


> That is a beautiful lamp post.
> 
> It was probably "powder coated" originally.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insight, ED.

As for the matter of bare metal, I presumed that was what the dark areas were on the post, where the white paint has worn away. Would there be anything else under the paint to account for the dark colour? 

This is likely the most basic of sanding questions, but...what exactly is a 'wet sand'? Also, is there specific sandpaper for metal projects?

Makes sense about not needing to get rid of the old paint, as long as edges are smoothed out.

Thanks again for your help. Hope to be able to post a 'share-worthy' final product picture, haha. 

MB


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

Bondo said:


> Ayuh,... What I see is takin' all the glass/ globes out of it, 'n tapin' off the things that don't wanta get painted,...
> 
> For Prepin' the surface,...
> Wash/ scrub down every inch of what ya want painted, with a green scotch scrubby pad, 'n dishsoap,...
> ...


Wow, I'm bowled over at the abundance of help here. Thanks for chiming in, Bondo. 

That's a good idea about the scrub pads. I'll make sure to have those on hand. 

MB


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Wet sanding is using what's called "wet/dry " sandpaper. I'm guessing 400 grit with water would be good for your project. Rinse well and let dry completely. 

The preferred outdoor relative humidity for your painting project would be below 50 percent. Your local weather will have that information most any hour of the day. If they don't, use the - National Weather Service - home site and type in your city /state ( upper left ) location for that information.

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClic...4.11386921399969&site=all&smap=1#.VTLML5OTq1s


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

AS far as i can tell all you need is a said and paint. I personally would just sand the post with a sanding pad (120 grit) than paint with a waterborne exterior Dtm. Most Dtm Are interior and Exterior in one. The key with this over say Rustoleum is that you don't need to prime. DTM stand for direct to metal. Also will smell a lot less and be easier to clean. You can get this at any Sherwin Williams or Benny moore. Any Pro paint retailer in your area should have it.

Edit here is a version from Rustoleum http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product...c-enamel-coatings/metalmax-dtm-acrylic-enamel


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## Greg.Now (Feb 23, 2015)

Colbyt said:


> Agree but the sanding should be light, just enough to smooth any imperfections. If you have bare metal showing you will need to prime.
> 
> For aluminum Rustoleum really isn't required but it is a good grade of spray paint.


Completely agree as well. I'd try my best to avoid over spraying though but it might just be because I lack skill. I always over spray and I hate myself for it.


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## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Spray cans are expensive and hard to use and usually need multiple coats to cover evenly. Use a brush and a 4" weenie roller.


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

So, the consensus seems to be that I shouldn't be bothering to sand away the old paint, and instead simply sanding lightly to smooth out edges?

Also, is there a particular primer I should be looking for?

edit: Just browsing a supplies website and came across a Rustoleum 'paint and primer in one' spray. Has anyone used this? Is it a worthwhile product, in terms of eliminating the separate priming step?

Thanks again to everyone who has offered their insight and help toward the project. Hope to get it started this week, so long as the weather cooperates.



MB


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

It just occurred to me that I don't want to repaint the lamp post in the same colour as the original, but rather more of a beige, so would that necessitate sanding off all of the original paint?


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Primer is your friend, covers old imperfections, adheres to metal, and will cover the old color very well.

Just get the edges of the old feathered out , the oxidization from the bare spots , and you are set to prime and paint away.

Remember that it is better to use many light coats than one thick one. 


ED


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## AlphaWolf (Nov 23, 2014)

Here is a DTM style spray can. http://www.dulux.com.au/products/dulux-exterior-products/specialist/product-detail?product=11202

little info from the page 
Benefits
No primer required over new bare steel, wrought iron or pre-painted metal surfaces
Ideal for detailed and hard to reach areas
Convenient spray application

All you need to do is sand the surface and spray. You are not sanding to remove the old paint just to scratch up the previous gloss on the old paint. The time you spend priming you could have applied another coat of finish. Another bonus is that its Rapid Dry. So there will be less runs and sags. You dont need to brush or roll at all. Practice on something around your house. It does not need to be solid in 1 coat. Just a soft mist, even see through in some areas is perfect. Let it Dry and than repaint. Guess off top of my head is that it will dry and hard in around 10 min after you spray it.


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## muddyboots (Apr 18, 2015)

Hi,

Just wanted to stop by to thank everyone again for their insight and advice for my little painting project. I think it went pretty well, overall.

I've attached a 'before and after' picture to show the end result. The original stark-white colour has been replaced by a softer off-white shade.

Thanks again for all the help.

Cheers!
MB


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

That looks really nice. Probably better than new.:thumbup:


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## jimn (Nov 13, 2010)

Nice job ...


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

DITTO button times two here.

Great outcome, be proud of it.


ED


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