# crown molding corner blocks



## ckr31 (Sep 11, 2010)

I wanna install some crown molding,however I think using corner crown molding blocks may make this job easier and faster,because it would eliminate me having to make those angle cuts. is this true, and hard is it.also if their are any hints that would make this project easier let me know


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## wnabcptrNH (Jan 29, 2010)

The proper way to put up crown molding is by coping it and not miter cutting the inside corners. I personally and not a huge fan of decorative corner blocks but if you like the look, yes it will be much easier and faster.


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## Just Bill (Dec 21, 2008)

Outside miter corners usually take hit/miss fitting(never a true 90deg angle in a house), but you can get perfect outside corners if you take the time. As suggested, cope inside corners. And what he said about blocks.


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## 1910NE (Sep 5, 2010)

I was in the same boat not too long ago....i knew i did not want inside miters, but did not know how to cope the insides. i also was considering using the corner blocks, but the boss put her foot down. luckily, by brother is VERY good at it, and he helped out (ok, he did it with me helping him....)

most important, i learned how to do it. it really is not that difficult, just takes a little practice (and some planning as you measure and cut your crown mold.) there are a bunch of "how to" guides on this, both on this site and elsewhere. however, if you can find someone to show you how, that will be the easiest in the long run.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

I was told way back when I was learning to cope crown to cut the molding upside down bedded in and cut on a 45°. Once the 45° cut is made take a pencil and run it, marking, across the face edge of the cut all the way across and that will be your cut line. I always put my blade in backwards so the cut is on the down stroke so it don't burr the front of the molding. 

Lay the crown flat on a surface with the end hanging off just about 6 inches or so. Hold your coping saw at a 90° then tilt the saw out so it is cutting about on a 50° or more under, with the handle tilted out away from your cut. Just follow the pencil mark while cutting back under at the sharp angle. 

This will make a good under cut and allow your molding to fit. When installing crown from wall to wall, cut the molding about a good 1/8 inch longer than the actual wall to wall measurement, this will allow the mold to fit nice and tight when installed. Just bow it out in the middle, nail at each end and push the middle in and it will tighten up even nailed at the ends.

About the kill blocks, a buddy of mine used some that are made now where the crown actually runs behind the kill block and they don't look too bad. If you don't feel comfortable trying your hand at installing crown without the kill blocks, that is your business and it will look nice with or without the blocks as ceiling mold just makes a room complete.


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## canadaclub (Oct 19, 2006)

I had a friend who wanted to do his own crown but asked me to pre-make the corners. I did this for him but rather than the store bought design I cut them 12" and scarfed the ends. Then I glued and nailed a bevelled back piece to each side for him to secure the rest to. He did a great job at finishing.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

I just can't see using premade corners. I think you'll see them no matter what. Some crown mldg installs go in easier than others, depending on whether it's painted pine or stained hardwoods, and also the condition of the walls. I use a 24" scrap with miters on each and put it in place, marking on the wall and ceiling the position where it should go. Then, when I install the full piece, I can use those lines to match it up with the corresponding length going in the other direction


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## Docwhitley (Jul 19, 2010)

I tried the corners and hated them so much I ripped down the entire room... I was going to paint it so I did some investigating and found the Foam molding. Looks good in the rooms where it is but for my Basement I will be doing real wood. Something I have been practing is coping... I tried the coping saw but did not have the skill. I read somewhere about using a grinder and that seems to be working for me on the practice runs


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Doc--Go to youtube --look for posts by Brian Campbell---He had one on coping with a grinder--

Use two 80 grit disks mounted back to back in a 4" angle grinder----Works well for me.-Mike--


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

oh'mike said:


> Doc--Go to youtube --look for posts by Brian Campbell---He had one on coping with a grinder--
> 
> Use two 80 grit disks mounted back to back in a 4" angle grinder----Works well for me.-Mike--


I don't know if I could ever get the hang of that or not after so many years of using the coping saw. I have seen some big ceiling mold that I for sure would have liked to use the grinder as it took a good 10 minutes or so to cope just one piece, I hated that profile. For me it might go faster and get a better job if using the grinder and leave a little and finish up with a coping saw. I can get dead on with a coping saw but I don't think I would be coordinated enough for the final cut with a grinder. If a person was good with a grinder that would for sure be the way to go.


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## Docwhitley (Jul 19, 2010)

I went out and estimated a boiler and the Carpenter there was doing her coping with a Jig saw. I have never seen that

Now I will also say that She was probably the most beautiful woman i have seen in months and when I looked at her she had a Titanium hammer so I said "WOW THAT IS NICE" she looked at me like she was going to punch me so I asked if she would mind if I looked at her Hammer. The helper that was there fought back his Laugh


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

Docwhitley said:


> I went out and estimated a boiler and the Carpenter there was doing her coping with a Jig saw. I have never seen that
> 
> Now I will also say that She was probably the most beautiful woman i have seen in months and when I looked at her she had a Titanium hammer so I said "WOW THAT IS NICE" she looked at me like she was going to punch me so I asked if she would mind if I looked at her Hammer. The helper that was there fought back his Laugh


I'd love to add to that, Doc, but I'll refrain!:laughing:
Anyway, I've used my dremel tool to fine tune the coped side after I've used the coping saw. I also built my own jig to be used in conjunction with a jig saw, but have yet to use it


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Ole Jim, The grinder is remarkably easy to control ---The first time I used it was to cope a seven foot long mantel into a natural stone fire place--that's over 14 foot of jigsaw puzzle copes--

Worked well,I could split my pencil line----I do have steady hands,but the work was not trying in the least.---

A grinder set up for coping now lives full time in the truck----Just handy--I still do most copes with a coping saw and a dremel for fine tuning----The work would have to be big enough to justify the clean up----The grinder makes a mess---Mike---


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> Ole Jim, The grinder is remarkably easy to control ---The first time I used it was to cope a seven foot long mantel into a natural stone fire place--that's over 14 foot of jigsaw puzzle copes--
> 
> Worked well,I could split my pencil line----I do have steady hands,but the work was not trying in the least.---
> 
> A grinder set up for coping now lives full time in the truck----Just handy--I still do most copes with a coping saw and a dremel for fine tuning----The work would have to be big enough to justify the clean up----The grinder makes a mess---Mike---


I must be stupid or something, but how is the sanding disc installed in the grinder?


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

You take Two 60 grit sanding disks ( these are designed to fit a 4" angle grinder)

Put the two disks together back to back---and install the same way that you would a cutting disk.

The backing is a very heavy cloth/paper--Doubled like that they are quite stiff and plenty thick.


YouTube - coping with grinder


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## Keith Mathewson (Sep 1, 2010)

Unless you really like eating dust you might want to look at a Collins Coping Foot.


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

oh'mike said:


> Ole Jim, The grinder is remarkably easy to control ---The first time I used it was to cope a seven foot long mantel into a natural stone fire place--that's over 14 foot of jigsaw puzzle copes--
> 
> Worked well,I could split my pencil line----I do have steady hands,but the work was not trying in the least.---
> 
> A grinder set up for coping now lives full time in the truck----Just handy--I still do most copes with a coping saw and a dremel for fine tuning----The work would have to be big enough to justify the clean up----The grinder makes a mess---Mike---


Mike, I am just an ole time wood butcher, heck when I started there wasn't even electric miter saws on the market yet. I think if I had gotten use to a grinder I would probable love it also but I just never used one like that. If I didn't get really close coping I would use my pocket knife to just trim the little that I left. I do appreciate the link to the video, that was interesting.


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## oh'mike (Sep 18, 2009)

Ole Jim,I started back in the 70s--Miter box and a sanding block--nails were sold in bulk at the hardware store---kept a file handy to keep the nail set in good shape---Roof trusses were an experiment--

Lumber was straight and knot free--- a compressor was something only gas stations had---

Gas shot up to .50 cents and I wondered how any one could afford that .

I've still got a few of the tools I bought back then-------

However--That grinder for coping is faster and just as accurate as the old way---and a technique

worth learning----Mike---


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## BigJim (Sep 2, 2008)

oh'mike said:


> Ole Jim,I started back in the 70s--Miter box and a sanding block--nails were sold in bulk at the hardware store---kept a file handy to keep the nail set in good shape---Roof trusses were an experiment--
> 
> Lumber was straight and knot free--- a compressor was something only gas stations had---
> 
> ...


Man, those were the good ole days buddy. I guess the reason I always thought you were a youngster is you have kept up with the times and they just left me behind.


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## mrgins (Jan 19, 2009)

oh'mike said:


> You take Two 60 grit sanding disks ( these are designed to fit a 4" angle grinder)
> 
> Put the two disks together back to back---and install the same way that you would a cutting disk.
> 
> ...


Gotcha:thumbsup:
Thanks for that.
Btw, when I started my apprenticeship in England, we only had hand tools, even the old timers. Every friday afternoon, we'd get an hour to file our hand saws and set the teeth. I could prob still do that!


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