# Gas Range installation, hook-up question



## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

if you have a local [not chain] full service appl store in your area-they'll do the hook up/install...if you're buying from a chain-i wouldn't let them do it-not to swift..just pull your old one have them uncrate new one in kitchen-check for damage etc and then install yourself..use new flexline and gas rated tape for connections..[don't tape compression side of flex line]


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

Their probably not certified to connect gas & don't want assume the liability


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## hamproof (Jan 4, 2010)

Thanks for the reply. I can hook it up myself, just that I was concern after having the delivery guys put it in its place, it'll be hard for me to slide it out and hook it up, as I believe it is 300lbs or so.

Anyway, I went back to the store, voiced my concern and he showed me with some effort (on the floor model), he was able to slide it out. 

Ok, now should I buy any specific gas connection kit? Are the ones from Home Depot, Lowes comparable with any others from the specialty appliance store? This is a 4 burner with 15k btu output on each.

I think the ones from HD/Lowes are $20 and from this local store, it is $30.

Also, is it customary to tip the delivery guys? It seems everyone these days are expecting a tip  I'm already paying for delivery and the range itself was quite costly to me.

Thanks.


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## 95025 (Nov 14, 2010)

kenmac said:


> Their probably not certified to connect gas & don't want assume the liability


Bingo.

I don't know about this particular situation, but most of your "delivery guys" aren't exactly top-end specialists. A lot of times they're college kids, or your basic good guys whose backs are stronger than their brains.

They're not trained & certified installation specialists.


The exception would be your small, local shops.


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## VIPlumber (Aug 2, 2010)

One suggestion I have to make is buy yourself some furniture sliders go under the feet of the range. I did and have needed to move my range many times while finishing off the kitchen. Our range is 385 lbs and its been pretty easy to move in & out. It all about leverage and so I'll start by by sitting down on the floor with my feet on either side of the range and pull on the front legs.

As for the connection kit I'd suggest you go to plumbing supply house near you. You might pay a little more, but you'll get the right stuff the first time. You'll need to buy; 4' yellow flex hose, gas rated teflon tape & the gas leak spray. Then if you have 2 crescent wrenches at home you should be good to go!

Good luck, it's actually pretty straight forward.


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## hardwareman (Oct 9, 2010)

that is exactly why people should stay away from big box stores and buy locally from the guy who will hook it up and service it down the road. buy from the guy who has the training and knowledge. just my 2 cents worth


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

hrdwm, how true on where to buy, especialy with appl's...installs are a craft in itself. not only do you have to know how every different line sets up,you have to figure out how to get the machine in the house. not everyone lives in a new big home..the chains don't want to pay for this ability so you get two yahoos who throw the thing in it's spot...i usually tip service/delivery guys,more so if they've done the little extras...As to your install just measure the height that the rear will be as it aligns with the cabinet-keep level- push it in place and adjust front legs. these all have plastic legs now so floor shoudn't be a problem..IMPORTANT!! don't forget to install anti-tip bracket..


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## Know It ALL (Nov 13, 2010)

Natural gas or propane? Might want to verify the jets. 
Before you install the new range wax the floor in the area where it will be installed. Makes it slick.


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## hamproof (Jan 4, 2010)

It is natural gas (almost certain). It is a house we are buying that is not seller occupied anymore. We are set to close in 2 weeks but need to have appliances in (range and fridge) for final loan approval. I do have those square sliding pads. Good idea. 

Will buy the gas connection kit from Lowes. Don't have much time to shop around as it is being installed tomorrow.


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

If you connect. make sure you connect to the correct threads. I've seen SAE connected to pipe threads & pipe threads connected to SAE threads


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## hamproof (Jan 4, 2010)

I went to Lowes and they have 2 kit. One for up to 60k BTU input w/ 0.5" diameter connectors and another "pro" kit for > 60k BTU w/ 0.75" diameter connectors.

Which one do I need? I guess depending on what range I have, right? I'm guessing the first kit will work for me? 

Reading the range installation guide, this is what it says (delivery guys should be here in a couple hours):

If the unit is to be installed with flexible couplings and/or quick-disconnect fittings, the installer must use a heavy-duty AGA design-certified flexible connector of at least 1/2” (1.3 cm) ID NPT (with suitable strain reliefs) in compliance with ANSI Z21.41
In Canada: CAN 1-6, 10-88 metal connectors for gas appliances and CAN 1-6.9 M79 quick disconnect devices for use with gas fuel.
In Massachusetts: This appliance must be installed with a 36” (3-foot) long flexible gas connector.
31-1/16”
(78.9 cm)
and Z21.69.


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## hamproof (Jan 4, 2010)

Ok, I hooked up the gas line and everything appears to be ok. Question about the routing of the gas line. The inlet on the range is at the top. So, once I push the range back in, this line kinda looks like a upright roller coaster. Straight up, down, the up into the range. No pinching issue, right? Or if someone has a diagram on how it should look like, much appreciated. Thanks.


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

If there are no kinks & it doesn't leak. Don't worry about it. It's a flex connector. It's suppose to flex/bend


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## hamproof (Jan 4, 2010)

@kenmac - thanks. Looking forward to using a gas stove after 20yrs of electric. Almost wish I bought a open burner design rather than sealed ones  Oh well.


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