# How to Transition From Stair Skirt Board to Base Board?



## mae-ling

What does your baseboard look like?
Thanks for the pics, that is great!


----------



## CopperClad

Did you build those stairs?? Look new and for surely breaking several codes..


----------



## dieselscout80

What codes do you feel are violated?

Refinishing the stairs.


----------



## CopperClad

1. maximum riser height should be no more then 8'', appears you are more.
2. 5/8'' drywall needs to be attached to the bottom of the stairs for fireproofing.
3. Minimum 4 inches from the bottom of the stringer to where the intersection of your tread/riser intersect.(looks very close on this one)
4. Every riser must be consistent within 3/8 of an inch.(looks very close on the bottom step)


----------



## kwikfishron

CopperClad said:


> Minimum 4 inches from the bottom of the stringer to where the intersection of your tread/riser intersect.


That would be 5" min.


----------



## dieselscout80

CopperClad said:


> 1. maximum riser height should be no more then 8'', appears you are more.
> 2. 5/8'' drywall needs to be attached to the bottom of the stairs for fireproofing.
> 3. Minimum 4 inches from the bottom of the stringer to where the intersection of your tread/riser intersect.(looks very close on this one)
> 4. Every riser must be consistent within 3/8 of an inch.(looks very close on the bottom step)


8"
hadn't thought of sheetrock there
5" stringers are 2x12 
yes

Do you have any advice on question which is what I'm concerned about?


----------



## Toilet Bowl

I had pretty much this same problem, I couldnt think of anything so just put baseboard and ended at the wall. does not look good. maybe u could skip the cap and paint the skirt white along with the staircase walls and caulk the 2 for a smooth transition


----------



## Keith Mathewson

For the base where the wall continues you just have the bisect the angle. For the one which has to turn the corner without being able to transition to level first you need a different profile base, here is a link- http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/10/raked-baseboard-returns/.

It does appear that you have some code issues however there is no code requirement for sheetrock under stairs in the IRC.


----------



## CopperClad

http://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Stair_Fire_Stop.htm


----------



## Keith Mathewson

While I feel that drywall is a good idea, I don't see where any code is referenced. At the Stair Manufactures Association conference a couple of months ago I asked David Cooper who helps write the codes for the IRC if there is any requirement and was told at that time that no such code exists. Fire blocking in walls is a code requirement.


----------



## CopperClad

Maybe its not a code every where then.. http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/nycode/MDW/5/1/152


----------



## mae-ling

Keith gives a good link, requires custom height base and trim on base as well as skirt.


----------



## dieselscout80

CopperClad said:


> Maybe its not a code every where then.. http://codes.lp.findlaw.com/nycode/MDW/5/1/152


The code you are showing is for Multiple Dwelling not a single family home and it looks to be a New York code and I certainly don't live there.


----------



## drtbk4ever

Great link Keith.

This is the way I would do it.


----------



## CopperClad

Okay, I apologize for my ignorance then. Every set of interior stairs I've ever installed or built, my teacher would direct me to install 2x4's the length of the stairs and install 5/8'' sheetrock. If indeed it isn't a code I guess they give you the choice to protect your family and give yourself a little more time to escape in case of fire in the basement. I learn something new every day. As far as your stairs.. When you do sell the home, I hope you don't get a semi-sharp inspector that does see that your risers are too high. What are you using for a toe kick on the risers being that your installing carpet?


----------



## dieselscout80

Keith Mathewson said:


> For the base where the wall continues you just have the bisect the angle. For the one which has to turn the corner without being able to transition to level first you need a different profile base, here is a link- http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/10/raked-baseboard-returns/.
> 
> It does appear that you have some code issues however there is no code requirement for sheetrock under stairs in the IRC.


Keith, are you talking about the same code items that CopperClad mention or others?


----------



## dieselscout80

CopperClad said:


> Okay, I apologize for my ignorance then. Every set of interior stairs I've ever installed or built, my teacher would direct me to install 2x4's the length of the stairs and install 5/8'' sheetrock. If indeed it isn't a code I guess they give you the choice to protect your family and give yourself a little more time to escape in case of fire in the basement. I learn something new every day. As far as your stairs.. When you do sell the home, I hope you don't get a semi-sharp inspector that does see that your risers are too high. What are you using for a toe kick on the risers being that your installing carpet?


I was planning to use 3/4" plywood glued and nailed (ring Shank). I like the sheetrock idea. I think I can still get it in there. The risers are 8" why is that to high since you said 8" was max?


----------



## mae-ling

Does that 8" include the thickness of the step above? If it is 8" overall then you are OK


----------



## dieselscout80

mae-ling said:


> Does that 8" include the thickness of the step above? If it is 8" overall then you are OK


*YES it does:thumbsup:*


----------



## Keith Mathewson

I'm referring to IRC codes, for which 7 3/4" is max, however you need to be aware of what your local codes are as they may be different.


----------



## DannyT

drtbk4ever shows the best way to do it


----------



## mae-ling

Lengthen the wall on the left of the stairs say1.5" so you can transition to flat before the corner


----------



## drtbk4ever

DannyT said:


> drtbk4ever shows the best way to do it


For the record i pulled that drawing out of the link that Keith put up.


----------



## BigJim

See if you recognize one of our members in this link.
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/11/25/traditional-tangent-handrail/


----------



## Gary in WA

Only if accessible space; http://publicecodes.citation.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_3_sec002_par018.htm

Gary
P.S. I would have finished the drywall corner bead before the stair skirt trim board...


----------



## Millertyme

Just for the record, and as Keith has already mentioned, local code around here for rise max is 8-1/4". I have built many stairs at this max, not by choice but by framing restrictions, and I must say an 8" rise is not as bad as many people would think.


----------



## dieselscout80

Here is a pic mockup of what I'm planning on doing for the landing transition.

I have a couple more questions on my stair treads I plan to glue and nail (ring-shank) both the treads and the risers to the stringers. 

1. Stair treads and risers how tight to the skirt board should the treads and risers be? If they are suppose to be tight I'll glue and nail them too. I'm worried that if the treads and risers are tight with the skirt board there maybe flexing that will separate the skirt board from the drywall.

2. Should I put drywall corner bead on before I do the final install of the skirt boards?


----------



## Millertyme

I usually use a liquid nail behind that skirt board and then nail it. The risers and treads should be tight, but dont force hem in too tight or it might create gaps on the previous step.

That corner, where the upper stair comes around the corner is going to give you trouble. There should be a small triangle shaped piece on the upper stringer so hat you can level off before you make the corner. On the lower section, I usually will come down plumb instead of making that 45 angle cut. You also need to give yourself more level surface wrapping That second corner. You just need more room to make your cuts.

I always corner bead first, if you don't, the mud might compromise your reveals


----------



## Keith Mathewson

extend the landing wall out a few inches. That will solve most of your problems.


----------

