# Refacing the front of house



## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

timothy300858 said:


> Would I be okay to just start siding from my start point and go up and have the brick filled in afterwards???


Yes, just be sure to install the ledge flashing first then start siding up off of that. Also your housewrap needs to be 'under' the bottom flange of the windows and not over like it looks like you have it now.

Another point is that housewrap has a shelf life (so to speak) on how long it can be exposed to the weather before it loses it's effectiveness. I believe it's 6 months for Tyvec.


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

I totally forgot about the flashing so thank you very much.. That ledge flashing obviously doesnt go above the windows as that will be pretty much the line I use with the starter strip for the siding.. Unless Im looking at it the wrong way... And if I think I know what you are talking about, I obviously had the windows in before the wrap was put on. If you noticed the window on the left having the wrap hanging over the top of the window, I have no idea why they did that. But I still have to run some tite seal tape or whatever its called around the windows and doors so hopefully that will be just as effective as what you are talking about.


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Or do I just wanna run ledge flashing all the way across even above the windows and then starter strip above that??? Im just trying to picture it both ways


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

If it was mine I wouldn't transition from brick to siding right at the top of the windows, I'd run the brick at least one coarse above the windows and then the ledge. 

For one I'd think it would look better for the windows to be completely encased in brick before the transition and also the window flashing detail and the ledge flashing would be separate from each other.

Another note is whatever angle you plan on the brick ledge to be have the ledge flashing under bent by a couple deg's. That way when you bring the brick up to the flashing you will be sure to have a nice tight fit where the brick meets the flashing.


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Sounds like a good idea.. And Im pretty sure Ive seen that before on homes around my area. I do have a question or two... Are you referring to actual bricks or would it all work with the veneer brick also?? The ones that are pieces that cover a certain square ft... Im just keeping my options open on what to put there... And the ledge flashing is all new to me so I wouldn't even know where to start. Im assuming its not something you go buy at a big box store. I do have a building supply company in town so Im sure I could go there.... Its just new to me so I wouldn't even know what to buy or what kind ... And if I go with that idea to start alittle higher above the windows, then what else do I need after I run the seal tite tape around the windows??


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

timothy300858 said:


> I do have a question or two... Are you referring to actual bricks or would it all work with the veneer brick also??


This is where it gets grey. If you want to do the upper now and the lower later you at least need to decide what product your're going to use on the lower before you start any of it imo. 

How can transition details from this to that be planned when you're not sure what the this to that is?


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Okay... well for decision purposes, I will go with the veneer brick.. So I have that out of the way, Im assuming the ledge flashing is going to be different... Im learning as we go so bare with me... I did look at some pics of what the ledge flashing looks like and is so I understand the reason for it.


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## kwikfishron (Mar 11, 2010)

timothy300858 said:


> Okay... well for decision purposes, I will go with the veneer brick.


The word "veneer" is a very broad term. Choose a product and then the "how to" details will be easy.


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

All Im worrying about is what type of flashing I need to use for the job... I guess that info will be given to me when I go to the store and pick out exactly what I will be using...


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

I take it when you use the term "veneer brick", you're referring to some style of lightweight thin brick material? 

Does the house currently have a brick ledge (4" of additional foundation that sticks out past the sheathing at the bottom of the wall)?

If you're set on using masonry material on the bottom, I would suggest using something better than the weather barrier you currently have in place....


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Im not 100% sold on "veneer brick" which to me unless I understand it totally wrong , is pieces of brick that are connected by a mesh on back that cover a certain amount of sq ft.... Im not opposed to having real brick laid ( probably would look better)... My big thing would be if its safe enough to wait till spring to have that part done. I basically have a clean flat slate to work with... The sheathing goes down to a certain point and that's it... The foundation walls are seen to a point.. That's where the grading issues I have come in... I wanna get my house sided and after getting feedback here, I obv need to install a ledge along the house for the top of the bricks... That is where I don't know much about it... I like his idea of going a bit higher than the windows because I agree it will look better... Do I make sense???


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

I've never seen brick connected with mesh, not sure if it's OK fro exterior use.

Again, is there a 4" ledge protruding past the wall sheathing at grade to allow for a full depth brick veneer?


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Long story short.. the foundation wasn't poured square (I had nothing to do with it) so along the face its fir'd out to make it all even.. The sheathing comes down to the bottom and then nothing but ground.... Ill add a pic to hopefully clear that up... There isn't any ledge anywhere at grade level ... I will be removing those pavers and probably tearing up the sidewalk due to grading issues... So it will basically be a clean slate and flat faced


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

With what you have (or don't have), you have no choice but to use an adhered thin veneer. There's alot of option available now, between real & fake brick and stone, fortunately. Unfortunately, there's a lot of detailing that goes into the flashing and layering of materials behind the stone. There's literaly 10,000's of similar applications that are failing due to water intrusion........


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Okay... so what would be the correct order of steps??? Im assuming its possible to run the flashing along the house so I can side from that point up.. That's the point Im at and wanna do.. the brick and all that good stuff can happen in the spring... I obv know I have issues with other stuff... I just wanna know if there is a certain flashing needed that I can attach to the house so I can start siding...


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

http://www.maconline.org/tech/materials/BRICK/brick-siding/brick-siding.html


This image is simple, but a good start. "IF" I was on the job, I would insist on cutting the existing Typar at the top of future sill, and slide the sill flashing BEHIND the Typar above. The sill flashing is generally something that needs to be custom bent from aluminum coil stock. I've never seen it as a stock item anywhere, but someone else may know where to get it.....


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Well that is def a lot easier to understand... Looks like I would just have to put a piece of flashing in which would be the flash angle and I think because the flashing that goes under the sill should be installed also because it goes up the sheathing 4" so technically that would be behind the siding also... unless Im thinking too far up.. I actually have a friend of a friend who is a doctor with coil stock and a brake so I might catch a break there... Am I making more sense?? Lol


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

The flashing over the sill is far more important, you could probably skip the lower one if you use longer sill material vs. the row-lock brick sill in the image, which are synonymous with leakage. I'd highly recommend some sort of rain-screen behind the adhered masonry as well, but that can be installed right before the veneer. Here's a manufacturer that has a great product, and even better website:

http://mtidry.com/


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

Well I totally appreciate your help... Its a lot easier to understand now.. Only thing I see that could be an issue would be that ledge you were talking about.. But I guess I could go the other direction and not need one.. Thanks again.. I will def do some more digging so I can cover all my bases... Do you have a suggestion as to how much of a lip I should have bent for above the sill?? I think that is the only thing I can ask now...


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## jomama45 (Nov 13, 2008)

It depends a little on what you're using for a sill, but' I'll assume it will be 2.5" to 3" deep, projected from the building.

We generally have a 2-3" vertical leg, then ~60 degree bend to the "horizontal" leg, which is about 1.5" to 2", and then a slight downturn in the last 1/4" to 1/2", which is usually hemmed as well. I wish I could find a picture online, but I can't..........


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## timothy300858 (Mar 10, 2014)

I understand what you are saying ... I don't see why I cant get that guy to do all that... Any suggestion on just how high I should go above the windows?? I like the idea of doing that because it will look better... Just not sure on how high I should go..


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