# Quietrock and Green Glue for soundproof ceiling



## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

I'd consider the costs here. There are many "pre-damped" drywall brands available these days. You can field apply the damping compound and_ use standard drywall._ Cheaper, heavier and more sound isolating.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Totally soundproofing would require much more. The sound travels through the framing members, the fasteners, any penetrations (HVAC ducting, lighting cutouts, fire sprinklers if you have them, etc.). Your proposal would likely help cut down the noise transmission to some degree....


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

That's true especially for footfall noise. If the ceiling could be removed that would allow a much better range of possibilities.

Also keep in mind that sound is entering through your walls also to some unknown degree.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

Yep, you can take "soundproofing" to various degrees. It CAN become an expensive proposition. And the best laid plans.... I recall a basement finish job many years ago.
The wife was a former concert pianist who gave lessons at home (we're talking a "baby" grand piano). It sounded like she had an amplifier hooked up when she played it. Husband wanted a "soundproof" office in the basement. At the time we installed the best sound "deadening" products at our disposal. Sound "attenuation" blankets between the joists, RC1 channel, "sound deadening" board, and a layer of 5/8" firecode drywall. Seemed to work pretty well. Then he decided he need more lighting, so he had the electrician come in and cut 2"x4" holes and mount fluorescent lights in the ceiling. Needless to say......


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## Isaac Clarke (Mar 22, 2010)

Yeah, I read a bunch online, and saw that in my case, the sounds travels through a lot of different parts, not just through the ceiling. 

Well, drywall is only about $7-8 a sheet, and a case of green glue is about $175. So, if my math is at least partly right, it wouldnt even cost me $300.00, including paint. 

I mean...would I even notice the difference at all? What would you guys do in my situation? If it were your money, would you spend it on this type of soundproofing method? I know I cant completely soundproof my room, but with this method could I at least cut the noise down 30-40% or so?

And would using sound clips, or recillient channel help a lot more in my situation?


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

they make a ceiling track that helps to seperate and to minimize transfer of sound/vibrations that screws to the ceiling and you then hang your drywall from. sorry dont know the name of it at the moment but this green material may be for a similar affect. not familiar with it


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Isaac, difficult to say if treating only one wall will do it for you. I can say it's extremely common to do just the ceiling with an offending neighbor on the other side.

The question is how much sound may be coming through the walls as well as through the obvious ceiling. 

If possible, the best solution is to remove your existing drywall, install a clip and channel system (not resilient channel), a bit of R13 fiberglass and double 5/8" drywall with a damping compound.

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/solutions/soundproofing_ceilings/


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## Isaac Clarke (Mar 22, 2010)

Ted White said:


> Isaac, difficult to say if treating only one wall will do it for you. I can say it's extremely common to do just the ceiling with an offending neighbor on the other side.
> 
> The question is how much sound may be coming through the walls as well as through the obvious ceiling.
> 
> ...


 
You know, maybe I'll try solution #1 from the site you posted. The cost for this doesnt seem to be so much, and it looks like it should help a bit. Also, if it doesnt work out so well then I wont feel so bad because I didnt spend that much!


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## JoanaC (Apr 13, 2010)

Thanks for that link Ted. Lots of useful information.
But I still don’t think the footfall will be reduced totally. If I use a layer of foam and a layer quietwood on the floor, won’t that be enough instead having so many layers of drywall and glue?


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

JoanaC,

The original poster was asking about ceiling treatments. Your description is for a floor. Treating the floor when footfall noise is an issue is more effective than only treating the ceiling, but in most instances the neighbor upstairs isn't tearing out their floor.

If treating a floor for footfall noise, having a thin decoupling layer and then damped mass on top is generally quite effective. You'd be adding plywood layers on top rather than drywall layers under as we've been discussing.


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## JoanaC (Apr 13, 2010)

Sorry Ted for misinterpreting the data. I though he has access to the floor, I missed reading “neighbors kids”.
A double 5/8" drywall with a damping compound installed to clips should do.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

I see your point. Your assessment is right on the money as long as the existing drywall is removed first. Then apply the clips and channel.


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## kgphoto (Dec 2, 2007)

Wouldn't adding RC and another layer help? This would add mass and provide some isolation.

I too was going to mention a floor treatment combined, as I missed the word "neighbor's too.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

RC (Reslient Channel) is a problematic product. There's no specification for its construction, unlike other steel framing components like Drywall Furring Channel.

To answer your question you could use the RC, however the existing drywall must be removed first. This is a classic, well documented example of how adding decoupling (the RC) and the mass (the drywall) produces no real improvement if this is installed over existing drywall.


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## kgphoto (Dec 2, 2007)

Ted,

Could you elaborate as to how you are backing up your comment? Is there a study that you can reference that you forgot to put in your post?

I know there are many methods and tools to create "sound proofing", and I remember this as one of them. Mass loaded vinyl, iso pads, various insulation materials, etc.

By they way, this is not intended as an argument, I just like to learn as much as I can.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

No problem whatsoever

http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/pubs/ir/ir766/ir766.pdf

This is a good place to start.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Maybe another point would be of some value. There are 4 elements of sound isolation. Decoupling, absorption (what the insulation does), mass and damping.

Of these 4, absorption brings the least to the table. Typically 2-3 points is all. Surprising, and it seems intuitive that insulation would do more, but that's not the case.


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## kgphoto (Dec 2, 2007)

Ted White said:


> No problem whatsoever
> 
> http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/obj/irc/doc/pubs/ir/ir766/ir766.pdf
> 
> This is a good place to start.


Thank you very much. 

It is interesting to see that there was less with the RC on the studs verses between the layers. I wondered if the layer sandwich would have sealed the air penetrations and then the RC and 2nd layer would provide the decoupling, but I see that is not the case.


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## Ted White (Jun 23, 2009)

Using RC on existing drywall is incredibly common. And so clearly not a good move. Maybe part of the problem is that no one is promoting the data found by the NRC to designers and architects.


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## gil_happy (Feb 6, 2018)

Hello all... I know this post is 11 years old, but I'm wondering if there is an update to this post? I have the exact same problem / concerns / etc as the original poster and was wondering what the outcome was?

Thanks


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Best to start your own thread with exactly what your situation is and what you are considering.


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## gil_happy (Feb 6, 2018)

I totally agree, but I know people like when you look back at old posts first


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