# METAL molding!?!?!!?!???



## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

Hi everybody...what to do here?? I want to change all of the molding in my townhouse. I have to come to learn - to my shock and disbelief - that the top piece of molding around every doorframe in the house is METAL.

YES, METAL. :furious:

The door frames are metal, and the top piece of molding is integrated and arises from the top of the metal door frame, and each end is cut to 45 degrees. The two side pieces of molding are wood.

I definitely want to change the molding...I definitely DO NOT want to have to change every door frame in the house.

What the heck can I do!?!?!?


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

Metal door frames and casings aren't too uncommon. You'll be able to use some wood casing around your doors if you've got some wood studs in behind the jambs...You just won't be able to nail into the metal part of the jamb.

If nailing isn't an option, try adhesive. Pre-assemble your side and head casings with finish nails and wood glue (or even better, biscuits and wood glue). Then use Loctite PowerGrab or a similar fast-setting construction adhesive to hang the casing.


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## buletbob (May 9, 2008)

what type of profile is the door moulding now? I'm thinking 1/2" x 1-5/8" flat, if so go over it and pad the back out with a build out. pulling the moulding away abit for another shadow line. Sorry! its the only thing that comes to mind. BOB.


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## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

thekctermite said:


> Metal door frames and casings aren't too uncommon. You'll be able to use some wood casing around your doors if you've got some wood studs in behind the jambs...You just won't be able to nail into the metal part of the jamb.
> 
> If nailing isn't an option, try adhesive. Pre-assemble your side and head casings with finish nails and wood glue (or even better, biscuits and wood glue). Then use Loctite PowerGrab or a similar fast-setting construction adhesive to hang the casing.


Hi, thanks for your reply. Studs are around the metal door casing...I want that top piece of integrated, metal molding to NOT BE THERE! so, how do i get right of it to replace it with different molding if it is part of the metal door frame??


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

You might want to check with your local building inspector about the metal frame. Alot of times, especially in townhouses like yours, it is fire code to have a metal door and any tampering with it voids the fire rating and you might be in some trouble. Also some pictures would be good to see exactly what you mean.


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## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> You might want to check with your local building inspector about the metal frame. Alot of times, especially in townhouses like yours, it is fire code to have a metal door and any tampering with it voids the fire rating and you might be in some trouble. Also some pictures would be good to see exactly what you mean.


Never thought of that. Although, I don't want to swap out the frame, just lose the integrated top piece of metal molding. 

I've attached a pic. Now that I think more about it, I think I can snip it off with a good snipper...


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## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

The picture is too dark.
Ron


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## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

Ron6519 said:


> The picture is too dark.
> Ron


Please look again; edited the post with better pics. Thanks


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

hopefully termite will chime in on if it's a good idea to cut that off or not but if it was me i would make a call to the building inspector to make sure. Otherwise it might get expensive to replace the whole door frame when you compromise the integrity of a fire rated door. Not saying that this is the case, just saying i would find out before i go cutting.


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## Termite (Apr 13, 2008)

If it is a fire rated door you cannot make any sort of modification to the jamb assembly without compromising the fire rating. 

Next question....Where is the door located? Garage? Common wall? Wall to a corridor? How many other townhome units (if any) are attached to your townhome?

If you were to remove the metal casing you'll find that there are a number of screws and casing retention clips underneath it, and they'd be nearly impossible to conceal. You won't have much luck with tin snips I imagine. The metal door jambs I've installed all had snap-on casing that is removed with a pry bar. 

Have you thought about making a case moulding to surround and cap the metal moulding? That might be a last resort.


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## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

thekctermite said:


> If it is a fire rated door you cannot make any sort of modification to the jamb assembly without compromising the fire rating.
> 
> Next question....Where is the door located? Garage? Common wall? Wall to a corridor? How many other townhome units (if any) are attached to your townhome?
> 
> ...


All of the doors in question are either bedroom doors or closet doors. There are 8 units in total...I have 3 to my right, and 4 to my left.

Regarding compromising the fire rating of the door - the door itself is a hollow-core wood door.

All I want to do is take a snipper and snip away that top piece of metal molding - sever it from the top portion of the frame to which it is attached...so that I can replace it with wooden molding. The door frame itself will never be touched.


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## bjbatlanta (Jul 16, 2008)

I don't think a hollow core door would be a fire door, especially if it's not separating your unit from another or a garage or common area. If you have a very steady hand, you might try an angle grinder with a metal wheel to cut off the offending piece. Have never come across a door like you're describing. Are the upright pieces of the jamb wood (not the trim, the piece the door hinges are on and the door closes against)??


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

Sounds like it is not a fire door. If it was a fire door even cutting that top trim piece off would void it's fire rating and would not be a good idea. Since it seems like this isn't a fire rated door you would be able to modify it but i don't think your going to be able to do what you want. When you cut this off it is going to leave a thin sheet of metal that you are going to have to butt the wood trim against instead of a 3/4" piece of wood like a normal frame.

After looking at the pics a little better you might be able to take an angle grinder and cut the metal trim off. It is going to be hard to make a straight line and also watch out for the heat warping the metal.


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## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

bjbatlanta said:


> I don't think a hollow core door would be a fire door, especially if it's not separating your unit from another or a garage or common area. If you have a very steady hand, you might try an angle grinder with a metal wheel to cut off the offending piece. Have never come across a door like you're describing. Are the upright pieces of the jamb wood (not the trim, the piece the door hinges are on and the door closes against)??


I believe that the upright pieces of the doorjam/frame are metal also.


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## tony1853 (Jan 5, 2009)

ponch37300 said:


> Sounds like it is not a fire door. If it was a fire door even cutting that top trim piece off would void it's fire rating and would not be a good idea. Since it seems like this isn't a fire rated door you would be able to modify it but i don't think your going to be able to do what you want. When you cut this off it is going to leave a thin sheet of metal that you are going to have to butt the wood trim against instead of a 3/4" piece of wood like a normal frame.
> 
> After looking at the pics a little better you might be able to take an angle grinder and cut the metal trim off. It is going to be hard to make a straight line and also watch out for the heat warping the metal.


I was thinking that to deal with any piece of metal left over when I remove that top piece of molding, I could maybe route out a little channel along the back of the new molding.

I am going to give it a go this week sometime, I will take pics of the process and post!!


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## ponch37300 (Nov 27, 2007)

routing the wood trim out should work and some caulk should hide some minor imperfections. Good luck and post pics when done. Just be carefull when grinding cause if you heat the metal up to much it will discolor bad and warp.


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## Rivethead (Dec 26, 2008)

Metal door frames are almost always made in two parts. Slide one side in then the other slips behind and is fastened by various methods. Some that you can't get to once it's installed.

Did you open the door and look up? The frames may be fastened in such a way that you can simply remove the trim by unscrewing a retainer or snapping the trim back out of the frame channel.


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