# Splicing # 10 dryer wire??



## Rvrlicak (Mar 6, 2012)

Bought old house . Need to move dryer 10 feet, as a result must move dryer wall plug. Can not run new wire from breaker. Can I safely splice this old 3 wire ( red, black and white wire) in junction box so I can run the additional 10 feet)?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

No. Three wire installations are fine. However you can not extend or modify them without updating to a four wire feed.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

Is there a bare (or green) grounds wire? If yes, you can extend the circuit
If no, you need to recable back to CB panel.


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## Rvrlicak (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks guys! I thought as much but your feedback is just what I needed. So I opened the entire wall and found there was enough cable to reposition outlet using all original cable. No splicing required. I assume this is okay or would even that be considered a no-no modification???

This is my first time using the DIY Chatroom. It is awesome. Thanks again!!!!


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I would consider that OK. Some others might not.


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## MisterZ (Nov 29, 2011)

repositioning an outlet is not really a "modification", although since you have the wall open it may be wise to replace the wire anyway.
i see you mentioned this may not be possible?? is the wire or panel not accessable??


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## Rvrlicak (Mar 6, 2012)

Panel is 100 feet away through space between floors. I would have to tear half the house down to run new cable.  Why would it be an issue if I just repositioned the outlet box, only moved it about 4 feet with no splices?
Thanks


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

it's only a 'technical' code violation, but not one i would be very worried about..


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## Rvrlicak (Mar 6, 2012)

*Dryer connection*

Okay have moved 3 wire plug without splicing. Now reading instruction to wire dryer using a 3wire connection. Says to ground the dryer unit through neutral using a copper link (provided) but instructions go on to say there is risk of electrical shock when grounded through neutral. Since I do not have 4 wire cable I have no choice, right? Any suggestions? How concerned should I be? Anything I can do relative to dryer unit grounding when all I have is 3 wire cable? Are not all 3wire connections in use grounded through neutral?
Thanks!


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## Techy (Mar 16, 2011)

Yes. The risk of electrical shock is if the neutral is lost, the neutral current will attempt to find its way home via the metal parts of the dryer, and if you're at a different potential, and touch the dryer, you'll get a good jolt.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

In lieu of bonding the dryer frame to the neutral wire of your power feed, you may run a separate #10 ground wire from the dryer frame to the panel ground, exactly, somewhat, or vaguely following the route of the power feed cable. Should this ground wire first reach one of the fat ground wires bonding ground rods or the entering cold water pipe to the panel, it may be clamped on and end there. (It may not end on a water pipe or at another outlet box where a ground wire to the panel may be.)


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

AllanJ, I don't think separate ground wires not part of a cable assembly are allowed under NEC, unless they are enclosed in conduit. Perhaps one of the electricians on this forum knows for certain.


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

I believe they are allowed. However if you can pull a ground wire back to the panel why mot just pull a new cable.


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## jakeparr (Jul 28, 2011)

Is the dryer on or near an outside wall?

If so it might be easy to route the wire outside through conduit.


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## rjniles (Feb 5, 2007)

sparkyjake said:


> Is the dryer on or near an outside wall?
> 
> If so it might be easy to route the wire outside through conduit.


But oh so ugly.


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

When the ground wire runs in a location where it is not subject to injury it does not have to be in a conduit.


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## Rvrlicak (Mar 6, 2012)

Thanks to all! I thought I was a decent DIYa'r till I bought this place. A 1969 model. Well built but I am not sure I can afford all the needed upgrades. Been in for 40 days and already have had foundation lifted. 19 steel piers. Cracked walls, lifted tiles and cracked the old cast iron sewer lines. Now all I want is a washer/dryer so don't have to run back to our other home which we are trying to sell every other day. I know that most of my previous homes had 3 wire dryer connections. If I know that the neutral is okay why would I need to upgrade to 4 wire? Also as I tear into walls I see that the home has ground wires running separate. Was this an acceptable method when this house was built? Maybe I should put it back on the market or sue the inspectors...................


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## fa_f3_20 (Dec 30, 2011)

Rvrlicak said:


> I know that most of my previous homes had 3 wire dryer connections. If I know that the neutral is okay why would I need to
> upgrade to 4 wire?


Well, it's sub-optimal from a safety standpoint. That said, it's the way dryers and electric ranges were wired for decades, and it seldom caused a problem. The main thing is, if you ever notice lights doing funny things in the house (unusually bright, or one light won't go on unless another one is on, etc.), suspect a lost neutral and instruct everyone in the house not to touch the dryer until you can get the main breaker shut off.



> Also as I tear into walls I see that the home has ground wires running separate. Was this an acceptable method when this house was built?


Probably... I'm not up on codes going back that far, but prior to 1970 or so, codes were far from standardized. If it passed inspection (assuming that inspection in that area existed when the house was built), it was probably per code at the time.


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## AHJ (Mar 8, 2012)

*O.k*

I personally say that it is fine, even if you extended the cable, Piped, flexed, what ever you needed to do to relocate the device. An inspector wont force any code against that, not that I know of, as long as everything is closed up and you don't have free aired conductors floating around, (THHN) .


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## Jim Port (Sep 21, 2007)

AHJ said:


> I personally say that it is fine, even if you extended the cable, Piped, flexed, what ever you needed to do to relocate the device. An inspector wont force any code against that, not that I know of, as long as everything is closed up and you don't have free aired conductors floating around, (THHN) .


I hope those are your initials and not your position in an inspection agency. Your attitude seems very cavalier and contradictory to the well established codes and practices.


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