# Removing Silicone Caulk...



## BillK40

I've got a bathtub that I suspect was caulked with a silicone caulk by the builder. What is the best product to use to completely remove the silicone residue? We've used denatured alcohol (not sure this helped) and a product called Lift-Off, which seemed to help, but really didn't get me all the way there.

Any ideas?


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## mdshunk

I don't think that a solvent exists for cured silicone that won't also dissolve the tub. Careful scrubbing and scraping is the typical route. Some people have reported good results from acetone (nail polish remover). Check to make sure that it's compatible with the tub finish if you're working with an acrylic or fiberglass gelcoated tub.


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## LanterDan

As md says, I'm not aware of any product that will disolve the caulk. Both methanol (and think other alcholols would be similar) and acetone can help some, but not alot. What beleive happens in this case that you are causing the caulk to swell some, which can cause it beak its bond to the wall/tile/tub/etc. I can say that I once worked in a lab where we had several acrylic water tanks (much like plastic fish tanks), where a silicone RTV was often used as a sealant. We used both methanol and acetone to clean optical windows in the tanks, and if you accidently got any on the silicone you where likely to develop a leak. But even then the silcone stayed stuck to the tank and was a pain to scrape off in order to reseal it.


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## BillK40

Thanks guys.

My situation is that I've removed all the original caulk between the tub and tile and have cleaned/re-caulked a number of times. Each time, more of my new caulk sticks but there's now a lenght along the back part of the tub that still seems to have a problem.

Liquid Sandpaper was suggested by a contractor friend. Any experience with this?


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## Ron The Plumber

Try goofoff found in painting dept of you Home Improvment stores.


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## majakdragon

I agree with all the above posts. I have always used denatured alcohol as it removes soap scum that can negate the adhesion of new silicone. I have found that using the "cheap" plastic putty/drywall knives (from the Dollar Store) helps remove thin layers of old silicone. They also do not scratch the surface and can be "sharpened" with a file or grinder to get a nice edge.


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## BillK40

Thanks guys!

Just for clarification, all of old caulk (suspected to be silicone) has been completely removed. It's the trace amounts of residual silicone that cannot be seen that needs to be removed from the surface so that latex-based caulk can adhere to those surfaces.

Thanks again!!


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## Double A

Best way to get old silicone off is by abrasion. Silicone doesn't stick to cured silicone well. Try every trick in the book, but don't scratch the tub. Heck, try an eraser. Once you get it off, let that area dry out well. If there is moisture present, the silicone will not bond. Same goes for dirt.

You might try this stuff out.

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151182

Says it works, but might soften plastics. Test and use with care.


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## canadaclub

Just last week I ran into a similar problem and tried Mr.Clean magic eraser. It worked pretty good but took a few sponges because they tend to crumble.


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## KUIPORNG

Use THE HIGH SPEED ROTATING TOOL WITH THE GROUT REMOVER HEAD(I forget the formal name of this tool).... with 6000 cps, nothing get into its way... but this tool is not expensive...


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## dougrus

Just curious...
From what I understand, Silcone caulk exibits superior performance to latex in an area of high water exposure, like for instance, a tub surround. Not silicon*ized* caulk mind you, but 100% silicone caulk.


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## jfwilliams

*Removing Silicone Caulk*

I'm a perfectionist. So it all had to be GONE. And there was a lot to get rid of. I was working on a 70-year-old porcelain over cast iron tub. For the record, I'm chemically sensitive, so I have to be careful what I use other than elbow grease and water. Here's how I did it. 

1. Use a utility razor knife to make a vertical cut and horizontal cut to remove the bulk of the grout. Pull it out. 

2. Use the same knife to remove as much of the grout as you can from the surrounding tub and tiles. If you end up making one of those little graphite marks on the porcelain with the knife, don't worry, just "scrub" it out with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

3. After you're down to that remaining, and stubborn, "skim" of caulk, apply Citra-Solv Concentrate to it with a paper towel. Citra-Solv is a natural ingredient and environmentally-friendly solvent. Wait a minute or two and then hit it again with the razor knife. With just a little effort, it will slide right off. 

4. Clean with an environmentally friendly spray cleanser and dry. (I use a little Dr. Bronner's liquid soap with water in a spray bottle.) 

As a final flourish, run over the newly cleaned area with the magic eraser. You can then run your finger over it and it should be smooth as a baby's bottom. Otherwise, back to step 3.

There! That'll teach you, you stubborn silicone caulk residue!


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## clarkbj

I too like to have all the silicone residue gone from the porcelain tub. After removing a shower door track I tried to remove all the silicone to reinstall the track on a clean surface. Using the good old razer blade was not good enough so I decided to use WD40 which I have used before for cleaning sticky glue surfaces. This product work fantastic on my types of glue and worked great on helping to remove the residue. Just make sure you have a ventilated area as it does have a strong order but worth it.


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## joey cabrera

*Removing silicone sealant*

Rotary steel brush on an electric drill is very effective. I used a cup steel brush in cleaning up the ceramic tile adhesive from our shower formica walls and it is so much easier than scraping. You can also use paint removing mesh pads except they can be more aggressive than the steel bristles.


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## dgun357

*Removing Silicone*

I have seen good results with a product called DSR-5. See the attached link. We used this product with silicone applied to glass and to aluminum, and saw pretty much 100% silicone removal.

http://www.dsr5.com/siliconeremoval.htm


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## user1007

Concentrated acetone or good old fashioned rubber cement thinner (90 percent benzyne?) will get it but have an appropriate aspirator on AND PLEASE HAVE A WINDOW OR TWO OPEN!


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## Hardy

*Removal of Uncured (soft) Silicone Sealant*

What would be the best way to remove recent soft uncured silicone sealant?

I applied some old silicone to a basement wall crack in the corner and it
remains soft and liquid to the touch. What would dissolve this and clean
the concrete for some new fresh sealant?


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## bobsyeruncle9

i just used goo gone to remove the caulk from my cultured marble shower pan and aluminum door frame. It is a citrus based product and worked great. Squirt some on, let it sit a minute and scrape with a painters 5 in 1 tool or putty knife.
I took someones advice and cleaned with a majic eraser. I have a fan on it now and will re-caulk in an hour or so.


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## calison01

I would try acetone also. But make sure you have good ventalation!:yes:


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## mazzonetv

There actually is a product called "contractor's Solvent" made by a company called De-solve It. This is a citrus type of solvent and will not harm your skin, stink up the house, or ruin the finish on your tub or tile. Excellent product specifically made for taking off cured silicone. Two things to keep in mind - first - it has to sit for about 15 mins before attempting to take off the silicone - can sit for as long as 24 hours. Second - you MUST thoroughly wash the area when done so the new silicone doesn't react with the solvent. Many True Value stores stock this.


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## ssims

I found a product at an Ace Hardware store that is called Motsenbocker's Lift Off. I just used it to get rid of silicone on a shower door I am resealing and it worked great. Just scrape as much off as you can and put the gel on the remaining silicone and let it sit for 5 min and it breaks up and wipes off. Then you wash the cleaner off with water. It is biodegradable.


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## jherndon

*Goof Off Works*

Just finished removing very old silicone sealant from a flat laminate top. First scrapped most of the glue away with a sharp scraping blade on a handle. A low angle is best to protect the surface and you might have to use a sawing motion if it is tough to get up.

Once that was done I tried some Goof Off solvent and a tuffy pad on the residual. It came off quick with a clean surface left behind. A warning, Goof Off does have a strong solvent smell (xylene) and is flammable, so keep your work area ventilated.

One other solvent I have used that works for this kind of thing is T10 solvent from the marine trades stores. It is a mixed solvent used to clean surfaces. It too is flammable and has it's own peculiar smell.


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## Agoodson

*removing silcone caulk*

After my VERY handy fiance installed our new stainless sink (using silicone caulk), we couldn't shape or remove the bead from either the countertop or the sink- it just smeared everywhere and of course dried to a thick rubber-like substance. So, we read all of your posts and tried everything- but had to use caution with abrasive tools (razors, drill heads, etc)...so he got frustrated and grabbed the paint thinner (mineral spirits) and it worked like a dream with minimal effort!! (This is happenning as I write, so I will have to report back on whether or not we ruined the finish on the sink or the crappy old laminate countertops). 

PS: the old porcelain over cast iron sink was a nightmare to get out- heavy & STUCK. So, we used a car jack to push it out- FYI!!! Worked great to break the seal.


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## FEDSAWDAVE

*Dsr-5*

While there are many products that will remove cured or un-cured silicone, they will also damage the surface the silicone is attached to. That is the problem. You'd never use acetone to remove a bead of silicone from a painted surface. It may work diluted on a granite top but do not get it on anything else! And Never use it on Solid Surface (Corian, etc.)Someone else on here mentioned DSR-5 Silicone & Adhesive Remover. This is a product that works as advertised and will not harm the surface that the silicone is stuck/smeared on.


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## Crcusfrk360

*I got the answer*

Acetone will remove all silicon base products and will not damage porcelain tubs. I have used it on many of projects. Tubs, aluminum, windows, ect. Apply a small amount on cloth rag and just rub. With in seconds it breaks the bond and you are left with clean area to apply new silicon almost instantly because of how fast the acetone evaporates. Good luck on all your projects.


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## Megan49

*Removing Silicone Caulk*

I've read all the suggestions for removing silicone caulk from fiberglass. Thanks everyone. Does anyone know where to buy DSR 5?


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## noquacks

Yup....silicone....I stay away from that unless one is building an aquarium, I guess. 

There is no known safe solvent that dissolves silicone. Only hot hydrofluoric acid will. Never approach hydrofluoric acid, period. 

I was skeptical of one product sold at home depot .....I returned it. Rub, rub, rub, as mechanical abrasion, as one member here explained, can work. Use the dreaded stuff (silicone) only as a last resort.


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## ProOrganizer

*Quickest Easiest Way To Remove Silicone*

If you are working on a porcelain surface, the quickest and easiest way to remove old cured silicone or silicone caulk is to use a pumice stone. You can find this at any DIY store or department store that has a cleaning section. It's usually called a "Pumie" stone. Get it wet and make sure it stays wet. Just go at it like an eraser. It won't damage the surface. Remove as much silicone as possible with a scraper, then pumie the rest. I removed residual silicone from around a removed shower door in about ten minutes with absolutely nothing left behind. It was easy to wash down and dry because there are no leftover chemicals. Good luck!


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## rmchavin

*I was surprised when I realized DSR-5 doesn't exist! Maybe it has now been banned?*

Here are some alternate choices under "silicone adhesive removers."
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...f56fe13&itemid=190463915935&ff4=263602_304642
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000PVSVW8/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new
http://compare.ebay.com/like/230551...f56fe13&itemid=230551162901&ff4=263602_304662


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## ccarlisle

I liked the post that claimed "concentrated acetone" did the trick. LOL

_"I dunno my acetone was diluted and weak, should I buy a concetrated grade?"_

_:laughing:_


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## nmcginty

*Magic Eraser*

Yeah, I can't believe how much those magic erasers are capable of. What do they put in those things? We used it to get red candle wax off of a dresser. Worked like a charm. 

Everyone's right on about all the caulk removal tips. Only thing that I could add is try to use a hobby type exacto knife when cutting out the caulk. Easier to grip and control than a utility knife.


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## nmcginty

*Magic Eraser*

Yeah, I can't believe how much those magic erasers are capable of. What do they put in those things? 

We used it to get red candle wax off of a dresser. Worked like a charm. 

Everyone's right on about all the caulk removal tips. Only thing that I could add is try to use a hobby type exacto knife when cutting out the caulk. Easier to grip and control than a utility knife.


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## handy andy

*Silicone be gone by DAP*

I've used "Silicone be gone" made by DAP. Just follow the directions. I find it is at most hardware and building supply stores I deal with. 

Razors and scrubbing works ok for tile or enamelled surfaces but even there there will usually be some spots with a little left . But if you are removing silicone from fibreglass or acrylic surfaces I guarantee you'll damage it with a razor. 

I have not tried acetone. The magic eraser sounds good. I will try it next time. I've been told that magic eraser has chemicals in it that may be harmful to children. So just a word of caution for anyone with chemical sensitivities! :thumbup:


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## FEDSAWDAVE

You could remove a bead of cured or non-cured silicone from the hood of your car with DSR-5 Silicone & Adhesive remover without affecting the paint! :thumbsup: It's all about the safety of the product...


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## nslapton

*Sharp Utility Knife*

A sharp utility knife is always going to be the best tool for removing silicone caulk.


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## dabaward

*and yet another used for WD40*

thanks clarkbj... prepping to redo the grout in my shower and coudn't get off the final film of silicone caulk in corners... it's early Sunday morning and I didn't feel like runnuing out to the hardware store to look for some of the products mentioned... saw clarkbj's thread about using WD40... worked like a champ!!! just sprayed on a light coat and scraped mith a razorblade... it's the bomb!!!


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## KJ_Bridge

nice!!!


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## Skylark1

*My simple solution*

This is my first DIY project and I was going crazy removing old silicone caulk. I tried metal spatulas and craft knives and although they did an ok job, it was super difficult to get into tight places and nearly impossible removing thin layers of leftover silicone. The utility knives were never at the right angle.

I finally decided to try a small callous remover that has this longish thin blade attached to a slim plastic handle. It's not the 'protected blade' variety manufactured by a German company, but a simpler version with an exposed blade. 

I wish I could attach a picture of this little tool; it stripped the caulk off my shower enclosure in minutes, and all in one piece. And thanks for the tip about the magic eraser, it works wonders removing the loose pieces of silicone.


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## user1007

Skylark1 said:


> I wish I could attach a picture of this little tool; it stripped the caulk off my shower enclosure in minutes, and all in one piece. And thanks for the tip about the magic eraser, it works wonders removing the loose pieces of silicone.


I guess they will not let you post pictures until you have a few posts under your belt. Too bad, I would love to see the thing. 

I don't know if you can plunk it and photobucket and point us to the URL yet either.


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## wraiththe

so which of these would work best in a corner tile situation where it would be unfeasible to wash down with water after cleaning, and then a new bead of silicone would have to be placed.


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