# Carburetor



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have a 64 1/2 mustang, and the carburetor has seen better days, I would like to change it out with a new one. I have a v-8 260 two barrel can I get a new one for this car??? 

Anyone??


----------



## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

Probably can't get a new Autolite carb, but should be able to get an aftermarket Edelbrock or Holley.


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Search Mustang forums. They probably can help you. If the throttle shaft doesn't have slack in it you might be able to put a carb kit in.:vs_cool:


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

What about a Holly? If so what should I need to know??


----------



## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

You should be able to get a good reman for around 200. There should be a metal tag on top of the carb call a part store with those numbers and you can get an exact replacement. Our else upgrade to an aftermarket intake and put a 4 barrel on to wake it up a bit.


----------



## Mort (Nov 26, 2008)

If you go aftermarket, don't make the mistake of overcarbureting it. A stock 260 doesn't need a 750cfm Holley, it'll make it run poor and you'll get terrible mileage. If you upgrade your carb without doing a lot more work, I'd recommend a 390cfm Holley with an intake manifold that is tuned for lower rpms.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-66-Autol...ash=item3abb2a0274:g:xmYAAOSwZG9WlUDA&vxp=mtr

Link to a remanufactured one on e-bay, ready to bolt on, they also advertise that they will rebuild yours if you want.


ED


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

A















What is this??!


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have never messed with a carburetor, but would love to work on it and make it right.. I have the rebuild kit, only cost 20 bucks. Can anyone guide me on rebuilding it???


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Someone told me it was a motorcraft.


----------



## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

There should be an instruction sheet in the kit. If not I am sure a short search online will yield one. If you were local I would come right over and show you how. I used to do that stuff for a living. Kind of miss it now with all of these newer cars. Carbs can take a little finesse to get right but that old 2 barrel is about as simple as they can be. I am willing to bet a good cleaning, tightening of all of the screws and a little tune and it would run great.


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Can't really find a good website to assist me on doing the rebuild?


----------



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

It's either an Autolite, as 47_47 alluded, or a Motorcraft. One or the other will work as far as tracking down the right kit, as they're essentially the same. Can't recall the transition exactly, but Motorcraft replaced Autolite as Ford's parts division, so you'll run into this on ignition parts, etc. as well. I think though that yours predates the Motorcraft name, so probably Autolite.


----------



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

It might look a bit tricky, but I wouldn't spend much time searching for a video. No disrespect to the guys who do or have done it for a living, especially when it comes to trying to track down a particular problem, but yours is more of what I would look at as long term maintenance, and I'm sure that you can do it. I have several old baking trays that I use for disassembling and reassembling such things, but a clean spot on a work bench works fine. As mentioned, the kit should have basic instructions, including measurements and gauges for the various adjustments. Keep an 8-1/2 x 11 pad and pencil and your smart phone or camera handy, so that you can sketch or snap reminders of how things came apart. Take your time and you'll do fine with it.


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Thanks guys... Sounds good, I will give it a shot.. I love things like this.


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

That carb is the easiest to build. Looks like a motorcraft carb.
Part #CRB 25585 from NAPA

I build them all the time. Just did a 66 stang with a straight 6 and a 1 barrel. Doing a 85 Jeep Grand Wagoneer 2 barrel. It's easy. Don't adjust anything but float level and/or float drop and auto choke. Mark the position of auto choke before disassembly. Adjust until the choke is closed and hit it with your finger to bounce it to make sure it closes but just barely. Key is the soak time. Never allow a soak to go over 30 min. If you have to, rinse it and then soak again. Also match the gaskets as there is more than one in the kit.:vs_cool:


----------



## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

I would put the same thing on it as what came from the factory.

Best way to screw up a great car like that is to start putting aftermarket stuff on it.

Keep it original.

I would suggest checking out JEGS


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Thanks guys.. Keeping it original I think is the way to go


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have changed the front brakes to disc. Do I need to have a duel master???


----------



## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Yes you should have a dual master and a proportioning valve to balance the braking.


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

I have two wires coming out of original master cylinder. Maybe pressure switch? But if I put a duel on it which I already got, I don't have the plug in the new one.


----------



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

I'm thinking that is your brake light switch.


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

So what if I go with a duel master? It won't have this plug


----------



## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Well, I would unplug one of the wires and see if the lights stop working. I'm pretty sure that will be the case, then you'll know to search for a master cylinder that has a port for it.


----------



## 47_47 (Sep 11, 2007)

You will need to get and plumb in a combination valve.


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

I would find a wreck somewhere and scavenge the dual system from it.

Ford used dual braking systems on their 65 full size cars, and starting in 67 on the mustang, and 70 falcons started the duals . 

I would test that two wires for brake lights by using a temporary jumper between them, that is a momentary switch of some kind. 

And if you get a master cylinder from a donor, see if there is a switch under the dash, near the column for the brake lights, if so use it and attach it to your column , then use an extension wires to connect it to those wires. 

You will need to make your own brake lines for this 64.5 anyway, so why not get a system from a newer model with the vacuum assist power brake system.


ED


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

The master cylinder you see in the picture is new, why can't I just use it?


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Is it a dual reservoir?

Disc brakes require separate reservoirs due to the different pressures needed to activate them.

ED


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

The part that the wires go into is something that screws in the hole, what part do I need to attach those wires??


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

New one!!


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

See the valve?? How do I connect the wires and where? Do I need another valve?


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

The 2 wires are on a momentary pressure switch. 

You either need to get a master cylinder that accepts it (probably impossible), or get a switch that attaches under the dash, on the brake lever assembly to activate your brake lights. 

First verify that those wires activate the brake lights, and if so rewire the system as I directed, but if they are for something else find it and wire them to that mechanism.


ED


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

Drum brakes requires pressure in the lines (around 4 lbs.) so air won't slip past the wheel cylinder cups. Disc brakes don't have that. If they did, they would drag. I would plumb that brake switch right off the master cylinder. Put a 'tee' on the front disc brake line port. Then put your line on and the switch. No need to mess with the wires. Just stick em on. But make sure it is a tee with flare fitting that fit the brake line. I don't know about the switch. Probably just tephlon(sp) tape. If you splice a line, make sure it is a double flare, not compression. They will pop off under pressure and that's when you need it the most!:vs_cool:


----------



## danpik (Sep 11, 2011)

Going back to the carburator...

when you start to dis-assemble it, find the idle mixture screw(s). Turn it in and count the number of turns until it seats and make a note if this so you can set it back to this position when you re-assemble. This will make starting the car after the rebuild that much easier. Once you get it done and restarted, then you can set the adjustment on it/them


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Brainbucket... Do I need a proportional valve?


----------



## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

The proportioning valve is used to keep the necessary ~4 psi in the drum brake half, and to leave a neutral psi in the disk half.

The disk brakes need to have no residual pressure so that they will not drag and wear prematurely.

The drum braking system has springs that retract them enough to allow free turning until the brake pedal is depressed. 


ED


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Gotcha.. Makes sense, so I do need it obviously. Okay I will get one because I have disk brakes in the front and drums in the back...


----------



## Brainbucket (Mar 30, 2015)

A residual valve *in* the M/C cylinder is the valve that keeps the 'pressure' in the drum brake line. If you put a drum brake M/C cylinder with disc brakes, the disc brakes will drag. A proportioning valve is a valve that relies on the statics to supply a reduced pressure to an output line. A simple example is where spring load applies a reducing force so that the output pressure is reduced. Proportioning valves are frequently used in cars to reduce the brake fluid pressure to the rear brakes. Not trying to step on toes. I'm wrong sometimes too.:surprise: You need a M/C cylinder that matches the disc/drum brakes that you have on there. And yes you need a proportioning valve. Maybe an adjustable one. Back tires locks up before they need to, take some out of the back and try again until you get it. :vs_cool:


----------



## bostonwindows30 (Jan 23, 2013)

Thanks brain bucket


----------

