# polyurethane over white paint?



## DDede (May 29, 2010)

I'm painting small shelves in a bathroom white.. Can I cover my white paint with polyurethane for ease in cleaning and to protect from moisture?
Also am considering painting the vanity in the same manner.
Thanks for you help - Doris


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## noboru wataya (May 17, 2010)

DDede said:


> I'm painting small shelves in a bathroom white.. Can I cover my white paint with polyurthane for ease in cleaning and to protect from moisture.
> Also am considering painty the vanity in the same manner.
> Thanks for you help - Doris


what sheen is the paint you are using? is it latex based or oil based? 

i'm assuming you're using something like a semi-gloss, latex paint. if so, i would probably sand off the sheen before i coated the paint with polyurethane. it is entirely possible, however i consider this to be unnecessarily arduous.

for an alternative, you could just use a high-gloss, oil based paint used for trim. it would be very shiny as well as mildew-resistant. you can also find mildew-resistant paint additives.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

This will only yellow the paint color. Why not just use tinted polyurethane so you get the color you want or oil paint. But no need to combine.


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## noboru wataya (May 17, 2010)

Bob Mariani said:


> This will only yellow the paint color. Why not just use tinted polyurethane so you get the color you want or oil paint. But no need to combine.


not _all_ polyurethanes yellow.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

Minwax Polycrylic is good stuff, have used it on countless projects and literally on over 1000's of linear feet of stained trim


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## DDede (May 29, 2010)

*Thank you*

for your responses


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

noboru wataya said:


> not _all_ polyurethanes yellow.


This is not a professional opinion, since no professional finisher would use this brand for anything. A painter that is not schooled maybe, but this will yellow... you can count on it.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

Bob Mariani said:


> This is not a professional opinion, since no professional finisher would use this brand for anything.  A painter that is not schooled maybe, but this will yellow... you can count on it.


I'm curious to know why a professional finisher would not use this product, we are a very professional painting company, that works all year and we have literally used this over 1000's of linear feet of stained trim, 100's of stained doors, 100's of interior wood window sashes, wainscoting, t&g ceilings and the list goes on, we have always had great success with this product , and we are highly trained in all coatings areas not just house painting and a successful company too, so I am just curious?


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

housepaintingny said:


> I'm curious to know why a professional finisher would not use this product, we are a very professional painting company, that works all year and we have literally used this over 1000's of linear feet of stained trim, 100's of stained doors, 100's of interior wood window sashes, wainscoting, t&g ceilings and the list goes on, we have always had great success with this product , and we are highly trained in all coatings areas not just house painting and a successful company too, so I am just curious?


 well bob?


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

Minwax is a consumer grade product. It will yellow. Furniture and cabinets are painted with tinted polyurethane, not paint then poly. A quality poly is two parts, the hardener must be applied prior to the finishing process to yield a durable finish. If you are trained and a pro and I believe you if you say so, then you already know this. So why question me. The binder (resins) in a quality paint are much finer that one in a cheaper brand such as Minwax. at the last refresher class for finishers I could not find a single company that disagreed that Minwax or any store bought stain. I myself have used the above brand several years ago, prior to professional classes. It did yellow. I will post some pictures latter and a pic of some cabinets done with the better stuff. Both are subject to the same sunlight and are about the same age. I spent the money for the schooling after getting such poor results from the store bought crap. I have never used it again.


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## housepaintingny (Jul 25, 2009)

Any oil base will yellow over a period of time, any solvent based poly is already an amber hue, a water based poly is a clear hue, the polycrylic that was mentioned is a water base and amber to start with. The poster is looking to protect a shelf, not a walking surface where it may be more beneficial to use a product like duraseal, instead of minwax.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

All of what you just posted is true. Water based must be used to reduce yellowing. But to maintain the desired color use tinted water based poly.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

The Paint Doc said:


> That products turns bright white a different color also, do not suggest products just because you're in bed with them.


I did bit suggest any products and agreed a quality paint is all that is needed.


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