# Simpler way to connect dryer?



## jankencanada (Jul 23, 2010)

That's a tough one.. I cant see a way,other than what you have now.
Where doe's the pipe vent to?


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## John_W (Nov 3, 2009)

jankencanada said:


> That's a tough one.. I cant see a way,other than what you have now.
> Where doe's the pipe vent to?



It vents into the crawl space (picture attached). I am going to have to add some vent pipe in the crawl to get the exhaust to - and through - an outside wall.

Since I have to do that, I want to simplify the above-floor hook up, to keep the total vent run as short as possible.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

I guess that's the front of your house which is why you don't vent it out that back wall? i'd reconsider as you could perfectfully align the vent and get back the space you're losing. ...i've seen people vent through the floor of the dryer but it's a pain to do it and if needs service also you'd have to relocate that hole... if you go that route DON'T use flex inside dryer-rigid only with Al tape.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

P/S, you could also cut a recess [they sell kits for this] into back wall so dryer fits flush. looks like you'd have to chip away some of your foundation wall[come in at an angle]. but would work and it's a one time thing.


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## John_W (Nov 3, 2009)

Jacques said:


> I guess that's the front of your house which is why you don't vent it out that back wall? i'd reconsider as you could perfectfully align the vent and get back the space you're losing. ...i've seen people vent through the floor of the dryer but it's a pain to do it and if needs service also you'd have to relocate that hole... if you go that route DON'T use flex inside dryer-rigid only with Al tape.


The vent side of the laundry room is against the wall over our front porch. I think you are saying maybe I should vent through that wall for perfect alignment.

I've been advised that I can't vent straight through that wall onto the porch because the vent would be less than three feet, horizontally, from the window. It would be three feet vertically, but apparently code requires three feet in both directions. We would not mind the looks or the routine lint sweeping - but don't want to violate code.


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## John_W (Nov 3, 2009)

Jacques said:


> P/S, you could also cut a recess [they sell kits for this] into back wall so dryer fits flush. looks like you'd have to chip away some of your foundation wall[come in at an angle]. but would work and it's a one time thing.


Do those kits meet code? I like the idea, but I think there may be a stud right behind the dryer's vent outlet.

You have given me another idea. To add vent pipe in the crawl space, I will have to overcome the narrow gap between the floor joist (right side of picture) and the termite shield.

Someone suggested adding a sister to that joist and then cutting a notch in it. 

Alternatively, I could notch the cinder block below the termite shield, patch the shield, and not have to notch the joist. How does that sound? It seems like the easier way to go.

Thanks for your ideas.


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## DexterII (Jul 14, 2010)

Not sure about code, but I would not want it vented into my crawl space, so would definitely come up with a solution to vent it outside. To your original question though, I prefer rigid vent, so would pull the washing machine out, in order to make the dryer vent connection, then slide the washing machine back in place. May need longer hoses, depending on where your valves are, but, in my opinion, that would be better than that long flexible vent line.


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## John_W (Nov 3, 2009)

DexterII said:


> Not sure about code, but I would not want it vented into my crawl space, so would definitely come up with a solution to vent it outside. To your original question though, I prefer rigid vent, so would pull the washing machine out, in order to make the dryer vent connection, then slide the washing machine back in place. May need longer hoses, depending on where your valves are, but, in my opinion, that would be better than that long flexible vent line.


That's a good idea ("pull the washing machine out, in order to make the dryer vent connection").

Thanks.


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## Jacques (Jul 9, 2008)

Sorry, i should have looked closer at your pic's. didn't realize that was a joist [on right]. thought it was concrete foun' and outer wall-DUH!.My fixation was; they weren't even, and it was bugging me that dryer wasn't behind jamb. Yeah, you def' don't want it venting into crawl space permanently. if dryer match's up-sure, pull the washer to make conn. with a 90* elbow..You still have to get it outside though. i can see code for gas dryer[co blowing back into window-do they make exception for electric dryer? i'd do it anyway as it's the most practical, safest, and easier on dryer plus now they'd be even :yes:. it won't ever cause a problem and how would anyone know? i'd be worried notching joists.


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## John_W (Nov 3, 2009)

Jacques said:


> Sorry, i should have looked closer at your pic's. didn't realize that was a joist [on right]. thought it was concrete foun' and outer wall-DUH!.My fixation was; they weren't even, and it was bugging me that dryer wasn't behind jamb. Yeah, you def' don't want it venting into crawl space permanently. if dryer match's up-sure, pull the washer to make conn. with a 90* elbow..You still have to get it outside though. i can see code for gas dryer[co blowing back into window-do they make exception for electric dryer? i'd do it anyway as it's the most practical, safest, and easier on dryer plus now they'd be even :yes:. it won't ever cause a problem and how would anyone know? i'd be worried notching joists.


Since I have an electric dryer, the fact that the opening onto the porch would not be 3 feet away from the window (horizontally) doesn't seem like much of a safety issue. No CO coming out that vent. No one is going to run a gas line over to the laundry room in order to start using a gas dryer. I would use a type A, straight out rather than a straight down termination - so the hot air would dissipate before it got up to the window.

Someone suggested that my home owner's insurance might not cover me in a fire situation because of the vent location not being to code. It seems like a straight shot to the porch would be much less likely to cause a fire than any other route the venting might take through the crawl or the roof. Maybe the suggestion was that finding something that is not to code, even though it didn't cause the fire, could be used, as a technicality, to avoid a payout.

I don't know. It's very confusing and frustrating. I just want to improve on the current, poor venting in the easiest, safest and least controversial way possible. A way that won't come back to bite me later on.


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## Jessidog (Jun 21, 2011)

When I moved into our current house about 20 years ago, I connected the washer and dryer in the laundry room. My wife tried to dry a load of towels and after an hour they were still wet. When I looked at the vent, I found it went straight up to the attic and then out a roof vent. The line must have been at least 30-40'. No wonder the clothes never dried.

In my case, I ran the vent through the wall into our garage using a piece of rigid metal ducting. The full exhaust distance is less than a foot. It is an electric dryer so there is no concern about carbon monoxide. The vent is near the front of the garage so we always make sure the double car garage door is open when using the dryer. Since it a short straight path for the exhaust, the dryer works efficiently and there is very little buildup of lint. Based on my experience, I support the suggestion of finding a way to make a short straight path for the exhaust.

David


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