# 2 Door Garage to a 1 Door Garage?



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

I currently have a 2 door garage, but I want to convert it to a 1 door. I'm currently in the process of raising my rafters, but when I'm done, they're going to be significantly higher than the header of my garage door(s). Is this a problem? Is there anything significant I should take into consideration when converting from the 2 door to a 1 door? Thanks!

JP


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Jp,
As long as the header is properly sized and constructed for the opening width and what it has to support above, it should be fine. I've done this before. It ususally involves building a temorary wall a couple of feet in to suppport everyting above while you remove the old headers and install a new one. 
When building the rough opening for the new door, size it to the size of the door. For example, a 16' x 7' door requires a 16' x 7' rough opening. Then when you put your jambs on (3/4") and apply your vinyl stops, you end up with a nice overlap on the outside. You need aprox. 14" above the door opening to the nearest overhead obstruction to fit 12" radius track and have the door clear. If you have a lot more room up above and plan on doing auto work with a lift involved, they make hi-lift track, which adds a vertical section in between the lower section of track (uprights) and the horizontal rails. This raises the door up closer to the ceiling and provides more headroom. You have to go to a real garage door company to get this, not a big box store.
Mike Hawkins


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

firehawkmph said:


> Jp,
> As long as the header is properly sized and constructed for the opening width and what it has to support above, it should be fine. I've done this before. It ususally involves building a temorary wall a couple of feet in to suppport everyting above while you remove the old headers and install a new one.
> When building the rough opening for the new door, size it to the size of the door. For example, a 16' x 7' door requires a 16' x 7' rough opening. Then when you put your jambs on (3/4") and apply your vinyl stops, you end up with a nice overlap on the outside. You need aprox. 14" above the door opening to the nearest overhead obstruction to fit 12" radius track and have the door clear. If you have a lot more room up above and plan on doing auto work with a lift involved, they make hi-lift track, which adds a vertical section in between the lower section of track (uprights) and the horizontal rails. This raises the door up closer to the ceiling and provides more headroom. You have to go to a real garage door company to get this, not a big box store.
> Mike Hawkins


Ok Mike, I think I'm following you here, but I have a couple of questions.

1. Where/How do I connect the new header?

2. Where/How do I connect the temporary wall?

3. What are jambs?

4. What are vinyl stops? 

Thanks!

JP


----------



## <*(((>< (Mar 6, 2009)

Is this garage attached to your house?

One concern I would have is removing the center wall between the two doors. You are removing most likely a shear support to keep the building from racking. I believe that for a double garage door the framing on each side of the door needs to be about 2' or greater with sheer panel nailed to it. This is to keep the building from racking and falling over. 

Hopefully, someone with the engineering codes can provide some more insight as to how much sheer dimension you need around the garage door, as I'm just recalling from memory what I've seen in the past on plans. 

So many times people ask these questions but every situation is different and sometimes it is better to get an engineer to make sure the existing structure can handle this change. But if the situation is presented in a good way, a lot of people on here have pretty good knowledge and can point you in the right direction.

A few questions you could answer that might help others provide more in depth answers are:

1) is there a second story above the garage?
2) is it attached to a house?
3) dimensions of the garage, and of the door you want to install.


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

are you the poster who just had everyone jumping thru hoops for a solutin on moving your 2x up 16"? now you tell us you are raising the rafters? whats up with that


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

tpolk said:


> are you the poster who just had everyone jumping thru hoops for a solutin on moving your 2x up 16"? now you tell us you are raising the rafters? whats up with that


Sorry tpolk, I mistyped. I'm raising my joists, not my rafters. Alls good.


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

<*(((>< said:


> Is this garage attached to your house?
> 
> One concern I would have is removing the center wall between the two doors. You are removing most likely a shear support to keep the building from racking. I believe that for a double garage door the framing on each side of the door needs to be about 2' or greater with sheer panel nailed to it. This is to keep the building from racking and falling over.
> 
> ...


There is no second story above the garage. There are rafters that hold lumber, etc, but thats it. The garage is detached and is 20'x20'. I haven't picked a door yet, but if my garage is 20x20, what do you suggest? Bigger is better .

JP


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

<*(((>< said:


> Is this garage attached to your house?
> 
> One concern I would have is removing the center wall between the two doors. You are removing most likely a shear support to keep the building from racking. I believe that for a double garage door the framing on each side of the door needs to be about 2' or greater with sheer panel nailed to it. This is to keep the building from racking and falling over.
> 
> ...


Oh and won't a newly installed header keep it from racking when I remove the center wall? My buddy told me to get 2 2x12x20s, sister them and then hang them on the last wall studs closest to the door. Is this correct?


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

thanks for the clarity, timothy


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

you will need LVL


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

tpolk said:


> you will need LVL


LVL? A level?


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

lvl structural lumber for that span and load, lumber company can do calcs but they will need all load info


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

tpolk said:


> lvl structural lumber for that span and load, lumber company can do calcs but they will need all load info


How do I find the load? I know the span.


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

you will need to give them size of ceiling joist with span, roof material and rafter size with pitch of roof and what your attic storage expectations are,does roof have a structural ridge, Im guessing no from previous post. anything that will put load on header


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

tpolk said:


> you will need to give them size of ceiling joist with span, roof material and rafter size with pitch of roof and what your attic storage expectations are,does roof have a structural ridge, Im guessing no from previous post. anything that will put load on header


Well, my current span is 22.5" and it wouldn't change if I hung a new header or? Not sure what my roof material is. My roof is 5/12 22.5 degree pitch. The rafters are 2x4s. What is a structural ridge? My storage expectations are minimal. I'm not planning on putting a lot up there.


----------



## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

I converted two doors to one and used a steel beam for the header, as there was too little room for a wooden header. A metals yard fabricated the beam. 

Suggest to think about putting in a door tall enough to ensure those tall SUV's and such can fit.


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

vsheetz said:


> I converted two doors to one and used a steel beam for the header, as there was too little room for a wooden header. A metals yard fabricated the beam.
> 
> Suggest to think about putting in a door tall enough to ensure those tall SUV's and such can fit.


Where/how did you mount the header?


----------



## campos202 (Oct 21, 2008)

vsheetz said:


> I converted two doors to one and used a steel beam for the header, as there was too little room for a wooden header. A metals yard fabricated the beam.
> 
> Suggest to think about putting in a door tall enough to ensure those tall SUV's and such can fit.


Mine had to be steel too to allow for trucks/SUV's. It's pretty cool that I can pull an F250 into my garage.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Myself I prefer LVL (wood) as I can install it
My middle LVL beams spanning 22' 6" were spec'd out at (3) 14"
I installed (3) 16"...supports great room wall above, attic wall above that, & 2 roof sections land on the attic wall

You need to have a beam sized based on the actual building & loads
22.5' span...how much wall on either side where the garage doors are ?
My garage is built up against the house...more stable

I would not try (2) 2x12's, get this sized & spec'd out properly

LVL beam:


----------



## firehawkmph (Dec 12, 2009)

Jp,
If I read right, your 20 x 20 detached garage with no second story should be fine with a double 2 x 12 header with a 1/2" x 11" steel flitch plate sandwiched in between, bolted through. If you are not familiar with the framing terms, you really should consider hiring a carpenter for the day to help you with your project. It shouldn't cost that much and will help to insure it gets done right and no one gets hurt. Also, check with your local building department and make sure you are both on the same page with what you are doing. I wouldn't go any wider than 16' with your door. Center it in the wall and you will have 2' on each side. 
Mike Hawkins


----------



## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

jpearson311 said:


> Well, my current span is 22.5" and it wouldn't change if I hung a new header or? Not sure what my roof material is. My roof is 5/12 22.5 degree pitch. The rafters are 2x4s. What is a structural ridge? My storage expectations are minimal. I'm not planning on putting a lot up there.


 Which way do the rafters run? Parallel to the door opening or perpendicular to it. 
If the gable is above the door, the roof load will be different, than if the gable is over the adjacent wall.

Your buddy is mistaken, that a couple of 2X12's will be adequate for the span.
As previously mentioned it will require a engineered beam!


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

sDave nice to see someone plate top and bottom on the lvl


----------



## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

jpearson311 said:


> Where/how did you mount the header?


Much like a wooden head except was an I beam - sat on jack studs and was bolted to the king studs.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

tpolk said:


> sDave nice to see someone plate top and bottom on the lvl


Ah..that wasn't a pic of my garage
But I actually did put top plates on all of mine


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Wildie said:


> Which way do the rafters run? Parallel to the door opening or perpendicular to it.
> If the gable is above the door, the roof load will be different, than if the gable is over the adjacent wall.
> 
> Your buddy is mistaken, that a couple of 2X12's will be adequate for the span.
> As previously mentioned it will require a engineered beam!


Hi Wildie. The rafters run both parallel and perpendicular. They run parallel on the left and right walls, and perpendicular at the garage door side and the opposite side (man door entrance). What is a gable?

JP


----------



## jlhaslip (Dec 31, 2009)

Are the rafters and joists landing on the wall with the doors? or on the side walls? 

That will have a great impact on your header size requirements.

Go to a local lumber yard with all the information and a sketch. They will apply local codes to see what you need for a header.


----------



## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

jpearson311 said:


> Hi Wildie. The rafters run both parallel and perpendicular. They run parallel on the left and right walls, and perpendicular at the garage door side and the opposite side (man door entrance). What is a gable?
> 
> JP


 That means that the rafters will land onto the beam! The entire roof load will have to be supported by the beam.
Thats why the original builder chose two doors with a center column. 
If you have snow in the winter, snow load will have to be considered, also!
A gable is the 'wall' section that closes in the space between the roof's. In your case, it is where the side walls extend up to the peak!
If your rafters rested on the side walls and the gable was above the garage door, the beam wouldn't need to be as strong!


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

How about a pic of the front door(s) framing from the inside & a pic of the roof from the outside ?


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> How about a pic of the front door(s) framing from the inside & a pic of the roof from the outside ?


Ok Scuba. I took some pictures from the inside. The best I could do for now. I didn't take any of the roof from the outside because it's pretty self explanatory. It appears to be a "pyramidal" roof. A peak in the middle with 4 sides. The rafters run both parallel and perpendicular to the garage door(s). The left door is a barn door style and the right is a new standard door. What do you think? The rafter style shouldn't hinder my joist raising plan does it? Thanks!

JP


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Interesting
Now I see why you want to raise the joists up
You have 22.5' width between the walls
A 16' door would leave you 3' 3" on either side of the door
Is there a Lumber Co nearby that can size this beam ?


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Interesting
> Now I see why you want to raise the joists up
> You have 22.5' width between the walls
> A 16' door would leave you 3' 3" on either side of the door
> Is there a Lumber Co nearby that can size this beam ?


Yes, I live in the city so there are plenty of options for lumber. I've never sized a beam before. How exactly does the process work? Since it's a pyramidal roof though, raising the joists won't be an issue right? Thanks!

JP


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

I basically went with my plans to have them calc the loads & beam sizes
Mine was a little different since its 3 stories

A garage just a sketch would probably work & tell them how the roof lands
Are you going to park 2 cars in the garage ?
If not I might consider a smaller door...14' wide maybe
--you could still get 2 cars in


----------



## Wildie (Jul 23, 2008)

Your roof is a HIP roof! my garage is the same! You won't have gables on a hip roof. Only roof's with two side's will have a gable!

In my garage, what you are referring to as joists, I call them collar ties! In my garage they rest on top of the wall, and are nailed to the side of the rafters.

For the span that you are planning, you still have a load problem, although not like it would be, with a side gable roof!


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> I basically went with my plans to have them calc the loads & beam sizes
> Mine was a little different since its 3 stories
> 
> A garage just a sketch would probably work & tell them how the roof lands
> ...


Ok cool. I can definitely sketch. You've probably been able to figure that out considering the amount of graphics I have posted . I do want to be able to park 2 cars in the garage. I like the idea of a 16' door. It will make it feel more open when the door is up. Are you sure the beam should be wood? People have been saying that it should be metal because I have a hipped roof.

JP


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Wildie said:


> Your roof is a HIP roof! my garage is the same! You won't have gables on a hip roof. Only roof's with two side's will have a gable!
> 
> In my garage, what you are referring to as joists, I call them collar ties! In my garage they rest on top of the wall, and are nailed to the side of the rafters.
> 
> For the span that you are planning, you still have a load problem, although not like it would be, with a side gable roof!



Yeah, you're joists (collar ties) are sitting on top of the top plate and connected to the rafters because that's how they're supposed to be. Mine however are not.


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

jpearson311 said:


> Ok cool. I can definitely sketch. You've probably been able to figure that out considering the amount of graphics I have posted . I do want to be able to park 2 cars in the garage. I like the idea of a 16' door. It will make it feel more open when the door is up. Are you sure the beam should be wood? People have been saying that it should be metal because I have a hipped roof.
> 
> JP


All of my beams are wood (LVL)...spanning approx the same distance & with greater loads


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> All of my beams are wood (LVL)...spanning approx the same distance & with greater loads


I just figured out what LVL lumber is. LOL. So for a 20'x20' garage with a 22.5" span and a hipped roof, an LVL beam and not metal would be ok?


----------



## vsheetz (Sep 28, 2008)

Yes, I would go with a 16' door - for resale value you want to be able to properly park two cars in there. The structural and door changes you are contemplating are very worthwhile to do, value-wise - IMHO.


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

if you have a 20' wide room the space wall to wall on inside is the span 22.5" is not the span


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

tpolk said:


> if you have a 20' wide room the space wall to wall on inside is the span 22.5" is not the span


Ok I'm confused. So you're telling me that the span is from the inside of a stud on one wall to the inside of a stud on the opposite wall? Scuba correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the span was the inner edge distance between 2 studs on the same wall.

JP


----------



## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

that is stud spacing not span. span is the distance your ceiling joist go from one wall to the next


----------



## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

Before we were talking about ceiling joist span
That IS the distance between inside edges of the wall studs
BUT - on OPPOSITE walls
Its the distance the ceiling joist will SPAN
but it excludes the depth of the stud

Example:
A 20' wide garage -measured on the outside...may only have a 19' 4" span
7" for the 2 wall studs, 1" for external sheathing


----------



## jpearson311 (Dec 29, 2009)

Scuba_Dave said:


> Before we were talking about ceiling joist span
> That IS the distance between inside edges of the wall studs
> BUT - on OPPOSITE walls
> Its the distance the ceiling joist will SPAN
> ...


Ok I see. Thanks so much!

JP


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

http://www.parr.com/PDFs/LP LVL 1.9E.pdf

You need a permit.......

Be safe, Gary


----------

