# undersink, integrated hot water booster- too long a run from hot water heater



## msavage (May 27, 2010)

I have a long run from my hot water heater to the kitchen sink. Often need to run the water for 2 -3 minutes before I actually getting any hot water. I'd like an easy to install 120V electric unit that provides like a booster of hot water until regular water from the tank can hit. But also don't want to cost me an arm and leg to run the darn thing. What should I put into the google inquiry..I don't think it is called a tankless because I want it integrated with my regular system... Any ideas or experiences would be appreciated


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

Actually your most cost effective method would be to put in some kind of recirculating system. 

A tankless unit is going to probably cost you upwards of 2 grand.


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## fabrk8r (Feb 12, 2010)

120 volt point of use water heater...common item.

Bosch, among others, make them. Anywhere from 2.5 gallon to 6 gallon. Start at around $150.00.

Go to your local plumbing supply house and ask about them.

http://www.boschhotwater.com/BoschHotWatercomHome/PointofUseProducts/tabid/405/Default.aspx 

Most models can be installed inline with a large hot water source.


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## tpolk (Nov 7, 2009)

great for keeping water at dish washer proper temp


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## msavage (May 27, 2010)

these are great answers but what is the difference between a "point of use " water heater and a recirculating pump..and when do I use which?..remember I just want the boost of hot water until the hot water reaches the sink from my tank..and in case what every I use breaks I always want the have access to the water from the hot water tank even it if takes longer.


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## fabrk8r (Feb 12, 2010)

Copied from HD website...hope this helps explain your options...

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...f_Use&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10057


Tank point of use water heaters come in a variety of sizes ranging from 2.5 gallons up to 20 gallons. For a single fixture where the hot water demand is low (hand washing, for example), a 2.5 gallon unit is often enough. If you plan on supplying multiple fixtures or have a greater hot water demand (dishwasher, washing machine, or a shower) you will need a larger capacity model. 



Tankless point of use water heaters are rated by the number of gallons of water per minute (gpm) they provide. Identify how many of the fixtures and appliances you might have running at the busiest time of the day and select a water heater that provides the gallons per minute you require. Refer to the table of typical flow rates for fixtures and appliances below to get an idea of the minimum gpm you require for your point of use water heater.


*Average Flow Rates in Gallons per Minute (gpm)*

Recirculating pumps are a popular alternative to point of use water heaters. These pumps save you thousands of gallons in wasted water every year by turning your present plumbing system into a recirculating loop. Unused water in your pipes is continually returned to your central water heater, so you always have an instant, steady supply of hot water when you need it. Recirculating pumps are used with tank-style central water heaters. They are not recommended to work with tankless models. 
Recirculating pumps function in a variety of ways: 


 A system that places the pump under the sink at the fixture farthest from the main water heater. The pump is activated by a thermosensor and controlled by the user with a mechanical timer preventing it from operating when not needed. This pump requires a power source near the pump usually in the form of a 120 volt outlet.
 The most popular pump is one that mounts to the hot water outlet of the water heater and pushes hot water into the system. The temperature is controlled by a non-powered thermostatic valve mounted under the sink farthest from the main water heater. There is no water waste with this pump, which also minimizes energy waste because it only sends hot water into the water supply lines during the programmed times. For homes with multiple loops, you can purchase an extra bypass valve for each loop and use just one pump unit.


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## msavage (May 27, 2010)

sounds like I need the pump vs the tankless system. Do the pieces under the sink need a professional to install them (I don't do the pipe sweating!) or can they but installed easily with fittings and not soldering? Also the pump units seem to have a timer..I don't know always know when I need the water. I read somewhere else you can one of those instaon units and "turn on the pump" when you need it. True or not? And since the pump is at the heater won't that just take the same time as if I turned on the faucet to draw the water? Maybe it will and just save the "losing" of the water down the drain???? If the instaon thing is the way to go..any opinion on those vs something called an X10? Thanks for all this help..water heater flooded basement over this past weekend and want to get everything done at once! (By the way, tried to replaced a traditional hot water tank system with tankless to save on energy and the environment..total cost (installation and equipment) for regular 75 gal gas fired hot water tank = $1200. Total Cost for tankless = over $4000 (with max federal rebate of $700 when you do the calculations.). Ridiculous difference


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## Alan (Apr 12, 2006)

I believe the 'grundfos comfort system' would be a good one for you. You should be able to install it yourself, it just goes inline on the angle stops before the faucet supplies, and the pump goes at the water heater.

They probably have some kind of installation manual, but if not, a number of people here could help you with it.


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## vol96 (Jan 17, 2017)

I know this is a very old post. But exactly my situation.

Wondering if the OP is still around and what he did and how its working.

Thanks


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