# 2000 windstar power window motor help requested!



## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Video should explain my problem. Any suggestions on how to get this window motor safely out would be appreciated!https://youtu.be/tPUM1JN8qZw


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

This for 95. I'll be darned, there's like no real info online for that car. Maybe go library?
But it says to remove rivets. I can see at least 2 in your video. Chisel them off. 

http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/wi...val_and_installation/front_door_window_glass/

GM had some cars with the same idiotic design, having **** riveted together, like as if bolts are not enough.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

97 says same - remove rivets:

*REMOVAL* 
*WARNING: IF THE REGULATOR COUNTERBALANCE SPRING MUST BE REMOVED OR REPLACED FOR ANY REASON, MAKE
SURE THAT THE REGULATOR ARMS ARE IN A FIXED POSITION PRIOR TO REMOVAL TO PREVENT POSSIBLE INJURY
DURING C-SPRING UNWIND.* 
1. Remove front door trim panel and front door inside panel sound insulator. See: 
2. Remove inside door belt weatherstrip.
3. Remove front door window glass.
4. Remove two nut and washer assemblies attaching the window regulator equalizer arm bracket.
5. *Remove four rivets retaining the front door window regulator base plate to door* inner panel.
6. Remove front door window regulator and front door window channel bracket from vehicle.
7. Working on a bench, carefully bend tab flat to remove front door window regulator arm slides from front door window channel bracket.
8. Install new front door window regulator arm plastic guides into front door window channel bracket and bend tab back to *90 degrees.* 
*NOTE:* Use care not to break tab; if tab is cracked or broken, replace front door window channel bracket. Make sure rubber bumper is installed
properly on new front door window channel bracket, if replacement is made.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Those instructions are to remove the whole assembly. This void shows the guy just pulling the motor. He takes two bolts and a nut off and the motor just falls off.
https://youtu.be/B6_VojnTAos


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Ok, so why not to remove the entire assey and take the motor out on the bench? You've done enough hole making, chiseling those rivets off won't hurt any more. You simply drill them out of regulator assey and replace with bolts.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I may end up doing that. I was hoping to just pull the motor though. That's what I did with my Olds about 10 years ago.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

If you look where the 2 holes are he had to drill them out. You will see a dimple in the sheet metal where the holes need to be drilled. Use a large bit though because they are not centered.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

cj, big already did this. Watch Big's video. Motor still does not come out.
C'mon, Big. Just yank regulator out.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

The stud for the nut us a stud bolt. Need a reverse torx socket you remove it and it will fall out. Way easier than removing tegulator.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Just watched the first video. You are 5 seconds from it coming out.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Sure didn't feel like it was coming out. It felt as solidly in there bolts and nut off as it did bolts and nut on. Since the stud the nut was on has a Torx fitting on the end, I am thinking i need to take the stud out before the motor will come out. Nowhere is this documented. 

In the second video you can see that the other just took the two bolts and one nut off and the motor just fell off. Me, not so much.


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Yes take the stud loose. I've done many of them


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

The stud will stay in the door panel. Kind of wedged in between the regulator and panel. Just need to take it loose


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Do i need to support the window? I assume the regulator holds it upright, not the motor. Motor doesn't bear any weight, just moves it, in other words. Correct?

I am assuming the right E socket is in this kit?

http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piece-14-in-38-in-drive-star-bit-socket-set-67930.html


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

I use a little tape just incase. That set should go small enough


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I bought the set @ lunch. $10. Could use vise grips, I suppose.: )


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

And.... how did all this end up?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Haven't finished yet. Wife's van, so she has been using it all week. I will get around to it this w/e. I'll post a follow up video when I finish it.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Got me curious now.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I tested the new motor today when I got home. A 12V power pack is perfect for testing components off the car.
https://youtu.be/PHPZJf-9e_M


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Big? Did you replace the darn motor?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Replaced it this morning. Went fine. No real complications. Here is the video.
https://youtu.be/iIRKlR7CXYw


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## cjm94 (Sep 25, 2011)

Those lock actuators go bad. Feel it when you operate the switch. Does it try to move? If so replace them. Your rear vent window motors are probably bad. Take the plastic trim loose and tap on the motor when it isn't working while someone runs the switch will tell you for sure. They aren't bad to change either, but most people just want them closed and unplugged.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

So why exactly was the motor stuck to start with? Your videos make me sea sick, sorry. I do not respond well to camera movements like this. Just tell me.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Yeah they make me sea sick too. I'll work on it.

The motor worked (somewhat) when I tested it when I got it out. I assume it too worn out tomove the regulator. Worn brushes, 15 years of crud buildup etc. Since it's cheap, I just replaced it.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

OK, I'll clarify my question. Issue was - you removed motor mounting bolts but motor still will not come OUT. Why was it stuck, as in - not coming out?


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

The stud was holding the motor in. The two bolts stabilize the motor while is running, absorbing lateral forces as the gears move the window up and down. The stud holds the motor in.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I forgot my manners! Thanks to everyone, particularly cjm, for their advice! I got curious about the motor's internal condition, so I will take it apart and post a non-seasick inducing video tomorrow.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Bigplanz said:


> The stud was holding the motor in. The two bolts stabilize the motor while is running, absorbing lateral forces as the gears move the window up and down. The stud holds the motor in.


So it was the "stud" that needed to be drilled out? Same thing I called a rivet? Or something different? Simply making sure, as the entire set up is very much like GM does on their trucks - rivets holding motor in place. :surprise: They need to be either drilled or chiseled off to remove motor.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Nothing needed to be drilled out except the two bolts. They needed to have the panel drilled for access. But that's all. Once I did it, it seemed really simple.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

My silhouette had rivets hold the motor in. You had drill through the door panel to get to them the use a punch to knock out the center pin, then use a step drill bit to drill them. The windstar was a lot easier.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Ah, OK. So you didn't have to remove the rivet, shown in your video, to get the motor out. Thank you. That must have been one to simply hold the regulator in place.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

I took the motor apart just to check it out. Non-sea sick inducing too! The child counting in the background is my son, counting my screwdrivers. 
https://youtu.be/t4-Oy8eWC6A


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Yes, the rivets hold the regulator on. A PITA to remove the whole thing.


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## ukrkoz (Dec 31, 2010)

Donno. To each of his own. I'd rather pull entire thing out and bench disassemble it. Pity to bust bones to get motor out just to find out that something else is broken. Besides, say for my Silverado, new regulator was only $67. Why bother with motors and all that. Removal was like 10 minutes. I had to replace them f-rs twice per door in the ownership time, I got real good at that. Last time did entire swap in 6 minutes.


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## Bigplanz (Apr 10, 2009)

Interesting. Rockauto has the whole assembly for only $5 more than just the motor. Still, I have never had or even heard of a regulator breaking or going bad in any way. Motors, on the other hand, go out pretty routinely on 10+ year old cars, trucks or vans.


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