# Indoor/Outdoor Carpet Over Dirt



## popcornmoney

Hi All! I am renting a place with a small backyard (25' X 9'). The backyard looks like it has been neglected for some time. I cleaned up all the dead grass, pulled up all the weeds and now it's nothing but dirt. I want to turn this area into a community area. Nothing fancy. Something simple like a few chairs, a table and a bbq grill.

I'm renting so I don't want to dig deep into my pockets as I'll only be here for no more than a few years. I was thinking about laying this carpet at Home Depot over it and staking it in place. I'll be leveling out the dirt before laying the carpet. Also, I live in Southern California so we don't get much of the elements except for sun. Since I'm not an experienced handy person, I want to get your opinions on this plan. Thanks and I appreciate your opinions in advance.

I attached a picture of how the lot currently looks.


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## popcornmoney

*Outdoor Carpet Over Dirt*

Hi All! I am renting a place with a small backyard (25' X 9'). The backyard looks like it has been neglected for some time. I cleaned up all the dead grass, pulled up all the weeds and now it's nothing but dirt. I want to turn this area into a community area. Nothing fancy. Something simple like a few chairs, a table and a bbq grill.

I'm renting so I don't want to dig deep into my pockets as I'll only be here for no more than a few years. I was thinking about laying this carpet at Home Depot over it and staking it in place. I'll be leveling out the dirt before laying the carpet. Also, I live in Southern California so we don't get much of the elements except for sun. Since I'm not an experienced handy person, I want to get your opinions on this plan. Thanks and I appreciate your opinions in advance.

I attached a picture of how the lot currently looks.


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## vsheetz

RV'ers have carpets/mats that are placed directly on the ground outside their RV to create a more livable area. They are designed to let rainwater pass through, be broom cleaned or hosed off, etc. I don't see why you can't do something similar.

example:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/prest-o-fit-patio-rug-8-x-20-brown/19301


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## popcornmoney

vsheetz said:


> RV'ers have carpets/mats that are placed directly on the ground outside their RV to create a more livable area. They are designed to let rainwater pass through, be broom cleaned or hosed off, etc. I don't see why you can't do something similar.
> 
> example:
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/prest-o-fit-patio-rug-8-x-20-brown/19301


Great idea! Will definitely look into. Thanks!


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## danpik

It would be cheaper and nicer to put down grass seed. A small lawn like that would be real easy to take care of. That carpet will get real nasty once people start walking on it. It will force the dirt up thru it everytime someone steps on it. Any rain will make a muddy mess of it.


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## joecaption

Would not cost much to even sod that tiny an area so you would have an instant lawn.


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## ccarlisle

What about those recycled-tire rubber mats, about 3'x3'? No further maintenance required (apart from a water rinse), no cutting grass, no lawn-mower...


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## rusty baker

...........:laughing:


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## popcornmoney

I was thinking about grass seeds or sod, but I'm certain that my lack of attention would eventually cause the grass to die and I'll be back with a dirt lot. I'm looking for something that's easy on the maintenance. Rubber mats could be a solution. Thanks for that idea!


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## popcornmoney

rusty baker said:


> ...........:laughing:


Thanks Rusty! Probably the best advice next to don't eat yellow snow.


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## user1007

What about artificial turf (not athletic astroturf)? Designed to hold up better than indoor/outdoor carpet. I think decent stuff is under $2/sf online? You probably have to put something underneath it though and I imagine the options are as broad as carpet padding. I believe even box stores and evil WalMart carry it. Not sure of the quality.


























If you think again about seed or sod, do not underestimate what it takes to establish sod depending on where you are. A seed lawn will establish as fast if not quicker. Either way you have to prep the soil thoroughly.


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## beenthere

Moved to landscaping forum.


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## Startingover

what about mulch or pine straw?


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## Two Knots

Small stones would cover the ground.


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## popcornmoney

sdsester said:


> What about artificial turf (not athletic astroturf)? Designed to hold up better than indoor/outdoor carpet. I think decent stuff is under $2/sf online? You probably have to put something underneath it though and I imagine the options are as broad as carpet padding. I believe even box stores and evil WalMart carry it. Not sure of the quality.
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> If you think again about seed or sod, do not underestimate what it takes to establish sod depending on where you are. A seed lawn will establish as fast if not quicker. Either way you have to prep the soil thoroughly.


Turf would be my #1 option but I'm not really trying to dig deep into my pockets. It's possible I could get my landlord to pitch in as turf will seem to last far after I leave the property.


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## popcornmoney

Mulch, pine or stone could be an option. Thanks for that suggestion! I'm going to Home Depot later today to check out my options up close.


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## brucem609

I have a 1 word answer SOD

Sent from my iPad using DIY Forum


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## popcornmoney

brucem609 said:


> I have a 1 word answer SOD
> 
> Sent from my iPad using DIY Forum


What would it take for me and how much would it cost for me to sod this area? I'm sure I'll have to prep the ground and maybe even put some top soil over the dirt. Then what? Roll some sod over it, water and hope the sod takes? 

I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this stuff so any insights would help. Thanks!


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## popcornmoney

What would it take for me and how much would it cost for me to sod this area? I'm sure I'll have to prep the ground and maybe even put some top soil over the dirt. Then what? Roll some sod over it, water and hope the sod takes? 

I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this stuff so any insights would help. Thanks!


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## oh'mike

merged threads----mike----


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## user1007

Usually, unless the land was scraped of all decent topsoil for its construction phase, you do not need to add topsoil.

First thing. Make sure there are no shallow underground utilities. There will be a free locator service in the front of the phonebook.

Then, you will want to rent a rototiller for a day (although you should not need it that long). Turn the soil you have over completely and then remove any weed clumps, rocks, roots, etc. 

Add organic matter and till again until the soil is fairly fine. Rake to your final grade. If seeding, add a fertilizer to the mix as well. You should at least test the soil for Ph and balance that at this point too if needed.

*If Laying Sod*

By sod that has been harvested within 48 hours at the latest. Box stores are notorious for leaving the stuff out for days on end. It is often in the process of dying before you even start laying it down. 

Lay the sod butting the edges tightly and water it immediately and as you go---do not wait until it is all down. Roll it into firm contact with the prepped soil with a landscape roller half full. If you do not make firm soil contact you can end up just growing the sod layer for eternity. 

Remember sod is a transplant product so your goal at first is to keep it alive until it sends down roots. This will require frequent watering at first. Back off and decrease the frequency and extend the length of time to encourage deep rooting. 

Try not to walk on the sod until the first mowing at the earliest or you just risk compressing the sod layer and destroying the root system. 

Sod will give you an instant green look but often takes more to establish in the long run than a seeded lawn. 

*If Broadcasting Seed*

Broadcast a quality seed blend and rake lightly to make soil contact. Top dress with a suitable material and then roll everything with a half full landscape roller. 

You will need to keep the seed and soil moist (but not soggy) during the germination period and this will vary depending on seed type. Most nice turf blends have a mix of perennial (not annual) rye, fescue and bluegrass. The rye will germinate in about 7-10 days but the fescue and bluegrass can take up to 28 days or so.

Once the seed has germinated, decrease the water frequency but increase the duration of the watering cycle to encourage deep rooting. 

*Mowing and Other Care
*
Mow turfgrasses tall and as needed. Never water later in the day then the turf can dry out before dusk or you just encourage insects and fungus spores. 

Fertilize regularly. Uses appropriate herbicides and other lawn chemicals only as needed and always according to directions. If the instructions say to mix 2T per gallon 4T will not work better and the run-off can threaten the environment. 

Either irrigation timers for an inground system or hose-end battery timers for manual sprinklers can really help to water several times during the day or to turn water on early in the morning.

*Reality Shifts*

The American dream of a house in the burbs with a rolling lawn is rapidly becoming outdated. We just do not have the fresh water for everybody to have a lawn anymore. And why when other alternatives will survive better and look nicer with some planning? Water rationing is here to stay all over the country and the first thing that has to go is water for lawns. 

In your case, some 12x12 pavers with some ground hugging cover plants in between might be more drought resistant, look prettier, and take a lot less to maintain. Keeping turf healthy is expensive in terms of time and money.


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## popcornmoney

sdsester said:


> Usually, unless the land was scraped of all decent topsoil for its construction phase, you do not need to add topsoil.
> 
> First thing. Make sure there are no shallow underground utilities. There will be a free locator service in the front of the phonebook.
> 
> Then, you will want to rent a rototiller for a day (although you should not need it that long). Turn the soil you have over completely and then remove any weed clumps, rocks, roots, etc.
> 
> Add organic matter and till again until the soil is fairly fine. Rake to your final grade. If seeding, add a fertilizer to the mix as well. You should at least test the soil for Ph and balance that at this point too if needed.
> 
> *If Laying Sod*
> 
> By sod that has been harvested within 48 hours at the latest. Box stores are notorious for leaving the stuff out for days on end. It is often in the process of dying before you even start laying it down.
> 
> Lay the sod butting the edges tightly and water it immediately and as you go---do not wait until it is all down. Roll it into firm contact with the prepped soil with a landscape roller half full. If you do not make firm soil contact you can end up just growing the sod layer for eternity.
> 
> Remember sod is a transplant product so your goal at first is to keep it alive until it sends down roots. This will require frequent watering at first. Back off and decrease the frequency and extend the length of time to encourage deep rooting.
> 
> Try not to walk on the sod until the first mowing at the earliest or you just risk compressing the sod layer and destroying the root system.
> 
> Sod will give you an instant green look but often takes more to establish in the long run than a seeded lawn.
> 
> *If Broadcasting Seed*
> 
> Broadcast a quality seed blend and rake lightly to make soil contact. Top dress with a suitable material and then roll everything with a half full landscape roller.
> 
> You will need to keep the seed and soil moist (but not soggy) during the germination period and this will vary depending on seed type. Most nice turf blends have a mix of perennial (not annual) rye, fescue and bluegrass. The rye will germinate in about 7-10 days but the fescue and bluegrass can take up to 28 days or so.
> 
> Once the seed has germinated, decrease the water frequency but increase the duration of the watering cycle to encourage deep rooting.
> 
> *Mowing and Other Care
> *
> Mow turfgrasses tall and as needed. Never water later in the day then the turf can dry out before dusk or you just encourage insects and fungus spores.
> 
> Fertilize regularly. Uses appropriate herbicides and other lawn chemicals only as needed and always according to directions. If the instructions say to mix 2T per gallon 4T will not work better and the run-off can threaten the environment.
> 
> Either irrigation timers for an inground system or hose-end battery timers for manual sprinklers can really help to water several times during the day or to turn water on early in the morning.
> 
> *Reality Shifts*
> 
> The American dream of a house in the burbs with a rolling lawn is rapidly becoming outdated. We just do not have the fresh water for everybody to have a lawn anymore. And why when other alternatives will survive better and look nicer with some planning? Water rationing is here to stay all over the country and the first thing that has to go is water for lawns.
> 
> In your case, some 12x12 pavers with some ground hugging cover plants in between might be more drought resistant, look prettier, and take a lot less to maintain. Keeping turf healthy is expensive in terms of time and money.


WOW! Thank you so much for this information! I went to the Home Depot last night. I'm really leaning towards some pavers. Spoke to my landlord this morning and he told me to get a quote for some materials. He said he may go half on materials, but I'll have to hire or do the labor myself.


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## user1007

Here is one no-mow idea to get you started. You could pick an even lower ground hugging groundcover.


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## popcornmoney

sdsester said:


> Here is one no-mow idea to get you started. You could pick an even lower ground hugging groundcover.


Yes, will probably go with the square pavers like in this pic, but just do them solid with no spaces in between. So I can set up chairs and a grill on top of them.


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## bbo

if you are only going to be there a couple years and just need something to not stir up mud on occasion, I would just toss some mulch down.

ever have a problem and need more, simply toss another bag down.

I'd probably get some shredded cedar as I think it looks a bit prettier. but whatever you have around you should work ok. Playground mulch might be a tad sturdier.


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