# Best stain for cedar siding



## hennyh

I think your choice of stains is pretty good. You might want to add PPG SunProof to the list. In a previous thread, concensus seemed to favor Sikkens, Cabot's and Woodscapes in that order but they're all quality products. I'd be curious where SunProof and Arborcoat fall in the rankings? Did the paint store tell you the difference between BM's Arborcoat and Benwood. New products aren't always an improvement. Sometime they're only better in VOC's but worse overall.

For that problem wall I'd let it get good and dry and then use a long oil primer with a shot of Penetrol. Have the paint store tint the primer to half the formula of the topcoat to get you a head start on coverage. You want a primer that penetrates into the wood and grabs hold of wood fibers. Long oil primer does that the best IMHO.


----------



## pgreef

Thanks hennyh.

Will the oil primer stick to the existing latex stain also?


----------



## hennyh

pgreef said:


> Thanks hennyh.
> 
> Will the oil primer stick to the existing latex stain also?


You should really ask the paint store and/or check the manufacturer's data sheet to be sure. In general, oil based primers requires a sound, dry and clean surface. Previous coatings with poor adhesion need to be removed. (this is the case with any coating)


----------



## mazzonetv

there are so many different brands that are good and so many opinions on this. I think all of the brands you are looking at are good so I dont' think you'll go wrong either way. I'm familiar with the Arborcoat product from BM so I'll give you some info on it. Yes, it is a new low VOC product, however, in their independent tests ben moore put this product up against cabot and sikkens and they claim it holds up better. Unfortunately, the product is so new that you really have to take their word for it from the accelerated testing that was conducted by the lab. In any case, the Arborcoat is a waterbased product so over cedar they still suggest using an oil based primer - the can specifically lists fresh start - but there are others that will work. The woodscapes sounds interesting in that you don't need a primer - Sikkens, Cabot, etc are all great brands. Personally, I just used some of the ARborcoat and was very happy with the results. I'll let you know in a few years if I'm still happy =) Good luck!!


----------



## housepaintingny

We use SW Woodscapes and Cabot ProVT, they are both great solid stains with acrylic binders, you won't have to prime with either of them, you can apply them to bare wood with no problems, Cabot ProVT we use the most on siding and fences that are previously stained or bare.


----------



## Matthewt1970

housepaintingny said:


> We use SW Woodscapes and Cabot ProVT, they are both great solid stains with acrylic binders, you won't have to prime with either of them, you can apply them to bare wood with no problems, Cabot ProVT we use the most on siding and fences that are previously stained or bare.


I agree, infact DO NOT use primer under stain. That defeats the whole purpose of stain penetrating the wood.


----------



## pgreef

Both the Cabot and Sikkens web sites say I may need to prime red cedar to prevent tannin bleeding. How common is bleeding on cedar? Most of my wood is 15 years old and I've never seen bleeding before.


----------



## chrisn

pgreef said:


> Both the Cabot and Sikkens web sites say I may need to prime red cedar to prevent tannin bleeding. How common is bleeding on cedar? Most of my wood is 15 years old and I've never seen bleeding before.


 
If it has not bled yet, it most likely wont.


----------



## Domochu

Hi, I was wondering how does the Arborcoat holds up after 1 year?

Thanks!



mazzonetv said:


> ...
> Personally, I just used some of the ARborcoat and was very happy with the results. I'll let you know in a few years if I'm still happy =) Good luck!!


----------



## warminwisco

Dude screw the stain. I live north of you In green Bay area and coated my prevoiusly stained latex exterior with oil primer and Duration paint and after 6 years it is still perfect. Remember not to use caulk on the cracks but Gorilla glue, let it bubble up for 4 hours and sand it down with lava rock or skive it with a steak knife.

if ya get up to see a game this year stop by. Hopefully Cutler's knee is better!


----------



## warminwisco

Paint over the glue and never know ya had a crack


----------



## mibson

*Exact same question here*

I dont want to "hijack" this post; but I have the EXACT same question(s).

*pgreef:* perhaps we can work on this at the same time and give each other advice on what we find works best? This is a massive job and I want to do it right.

*I feel the biggest issue is getting the old pealing stain/paint off for good coverage. Is duct tape the best way? *

It seems good oil based cedar treatments are a simple solution once the old pealing stain/paint is off.

I too, have some areas that have been "fixed" over the years with some major pealing (peeling means latex or paint?).

The purpose of my window frame picture (on the outside) is to show the pealing that exists on the cedar siding in some areas.


----------



## photobane

This might not be the exact answer folks are looking for, but a few years ago I purchased a log home that had about 25 years of neglect piled on its old bones. We had all of the external surfaces (including window trim) corn cob blasted. Took care of all of the old stain. You could almost hear to wood breathing a sigh of relief. After that we used a multi step product from Sashco. Well 4 years later and it looks the same as when I put it on. It has a clear coat that you are supposed to apply every year but I haven't even managed to do that. I wish they had a deck product !


----------



## Gymschu

Who keeps posting these threads from LAST YEAR?


----------



## photobane

Sorry Gymschu, I looked at the posting dates of the last 4 entries and they were all in the last month, primarily because Domochu was looking to see if now, after one year, anyone had any additional data on the Arborcoat product. That then spurred continued discussion. If this was a faux pas, then I apologize, but this was one of the more detailed discussions on 
Arborcoat that I could find when I entered "Arborcoat" into the search engine of this forum. The product seems to be mysteriously devoid of reviews, so if you have any information, please let us know.

Again, I apologize if I have committed a forum misdemeanor.


----------



## Gymschu

Photobane, you're good............just sometimes someone gets a bit "juvenile" and brings back posts from 2 or 3 years ago.......trying to be funny. I have done the same as you trying to find info via the Search function........it's all good!


----------



## logluvr

Rather interesting topic.

Glad to know the OP did not use the Arborcoat. We did. Within 6-7 months it has peeled almost completely off of the south side of our house and numerous other spots on the other 3 sides.
It had looked great going on and had pentrated the wood.
Now our house looks terrible and we have to either media blast it ourselves or hire it done.

Just a heads up for everyone.

Did contact the store and manufactor and we were told we did it wrong and did not follow the instructions on the can etc etc etc.


----------

