# Advice on changing roof shape for resale value



## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Hi All,

The previous owners had a really big patio overhang added but it took away from natural light in the living room and it had attracted termites often so I had someone remove it.

I asked the person who removed it to leave the corner so it wouldn't expose the roof while I figure out what to do.

Does anyone think it looks terrible? One option is to paint it white so it looks better or the other is to remove it entirely and have the original roof overhang put back in so it blends with the rest of the roof. I obviously rather not spend more money since I already have a big cost ahead for getting the stucco repaired where the overhang was but I should figure out the roof soon because it will cost more to have stucco work done twice if I do the roof modification later. For now I put plastic sheeting up over the missing gap until I figure things out.

I'm mostly concerned with resale value of the house, I may sell it next spring or the spring of 2019. I'm thinking of putting a nice portable gazebo in the patio area or a patio table with umbrella and other miscellaneous patio furniture and then maybe add a wall around the patio for a raised garden with flowers. 

I love how much natural light comes in the house now even though I created a lot of work now.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

More photos


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## ZTMAN (Feb 19, 2015)

One vote for looking terrible (and unsafe).


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

ZTMAN said:


> One vote for looking terrible (and unsafe).


Thanks for your opinion, it feels very stable. I could also add another post to the other corner and slide the existing one over a little and then paint it all white but I'm thinking you're right on the aesthetics.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I would change out one post for two, because that may work but it just does not look right. Fix up the flashing dress it out with new wood where ever it looks a little unfinished and paint it to match other woodwork.

Remove the stucco above that line add a flashing over the lower and add vinyl siding that looks like shingles.
Maybe a barge board like this house.
http://www.foundrysiding.com/


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

I would think that having an overhang or awning over a walk-out door is generally preferred. 

But that thing doesn't look great. Does not look right without a second post holding it up. Hopefully you still have posts from the other section. Maybe paint, maybe some trim will make it look better.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> I would change out one post for two, because that may work but it just does not look right. Fix up the flashing dress it out with new wood where ever it looks a little unfinished and paint it to match other woodwork.
> 
> Remove the stucco above that line add a flashing over the lower and add vinyl siding that looks like shingles.
> Maybe a barge board like this house.
> http://www.foundrysiding.com/


Thanks I think I could make that remaining piece of overhang look cleaner by painting and fixing the trim on it, etc. However I'm more worried about the aesthetics regarding the roof shape and it not being continuous. It could look bad/weird with that section of overhang just jetting out like that on it's own. Hmmm.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks I think I could make that remaining piece of overhang look cleaner by painting and fixing the trim on it, etc. However I'm more worried about the aesthetics regarding the roof shape and it not being continuous. It could look bad/weird with that section of overhang just jetting out like that on it's own. Hmmm.


with a little work it would look better with a hip roof.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

SPS-1 said:


> I would think that having an overhang or awning over a walk-out door is generally preferred.
> 
> But that thing doesn't look great. Does not look right without a second post holding it up. Hopefully you still have posts from the other section. Maybe paint, maybe some trim will make it look better.



Yea that's true a second post would help it and some trim and then paint could make it look ok. I just don't know if it's going to look awkward still due to the roof shape being different everywhere else. The overhang would cover the garage door but not the kitchen door so it might make it useless. If I need to do significant changes that cost alot, it might be cheaper to just restore the original roof if I had someone do it even though the original home doesn't have a very wide overhang.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> with a little work it would look better with a hip roof.



Thanks that would look nice but seems it could be expensive. I was hoping to not spend much money hence leaving what I have and painting it, or if I need to spend much than just have the original roof shape put back.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Yup, rough guess would be about $1000 plus your labour.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

SPS-1 said:


> I would think that having an overhang or awning over a walk-out door is generally preferred.
> 
> But that thing doesn't look great. Does not look right without a second post holding it up. Hopefully you still have posts from the other section. Maybe paint, maybe some trim will make it look better.



I think two posts would look funny unless that remaining piece was wider. Unfortunately I told the person to take everything off except anywhere that might expose roof so that I could worry about it later. If he had left it a bit wider so it covered over the kitchen door it might be more functional and look better with two posts.

I still wonder if the difference in angle from the original roof and the overhang would look weird since their is a large discontinuity just right of the garage access door. I definitely agree an overhang of some sort is preferred over the kitchen door and garage door for laundry and garage access. 

I also like the amount of lighting I get into the kitchen with it open so maybe the original house overhang would suffice.

Here's another photo.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

SPS-1 said:


> I would think that having an overhang or awning over a walk-out door is generally preferred.
> 
> But that thing doesn't look great. Does not look right without a second post holding it up. Hopefully you still have posts from the other section. Maybe paint, maybe some trim will make it look better.



These photos show the angle difference a little better. If I were to extend the original roof the overhang would be less but it would maybe blend in and it could extend up to just before the kitchen window and that would give an overhang over the kitchen door for getting to the garage door.

I could do the same with the existing one (too bad the guy cut more than he needed to) and add a second post but I don't know if the angle differences and discontinuity in the roof shape are going to look really bad.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Does anyone think the two post ok in the photos I modified? It seems it would be expensive to change the roof back to exactly original condition and it might look a little boring as well.

Here are some photos.

Also last image is of a house nearby with the same exact configuration and original roof shape. I don't know if that would look better?

One thing that comes to mind is that the current overhang remnants stick out so one would ask what is it good for? It does help when walking from the kitchen to the garage from the back. The original overhang would not have much coverage when going from the kitchen to garage when its raining.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

More photos


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Does anyone think the two post ok in the photos I modified? It seems it would be expensive to change the roof back to exactly original condition and it might look a little boring as well.
> 
> Here are some photos.
> 
> ...


We didn't get the last picture.
The two posts look better.

I suspect the reason it is there is for rain hitting the doors and maybe coming in the house there. They did the extra to the one side because they couldn't deal with the gutter on that section.

To redo it the way it was would require new rafter tails. 4 or 5 ft long run beside the rafters in the roof. it does not look like you could get in the attic to attach them. So it would have to be done thru the top.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Or a little wider


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> We didn't get the last picture.
> The two posts look better.
> 
> I suspect the reason it is there is for rain hitting the doors and maybe coming in the house there. They did the extra to the one side because they couldn't deal with the gutter on that section.
> ...



Thanks I checked and all the images uploaded to my previous posts. What you are seeing are the remnants of the old patio overhang. I told the person who removed it to not expose the roof for now so he left the corner section and used a sawz-all in some areas. I could have told him to leave more so there is another 1ft wide section covering the rear kitchen door. Now I wish I had done that in case I am going to keep this and add another post.


I'm afraid it will be a really epensive job because of the rafters. However the rafters can be accessed from the garage for maybe a quarter of the entire section, the rest is above the kitchen. The attic however goes all the way to the back wall and I remember being able to crawl over the living room and kitchen area. Would that make it accessible to sister in to the rafters?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks I checked and all the images uploaded to my previous posts. What you are seeing are the remnants of the old patio overhang. I told the person who removed it to not expose the roof for now so he left the corner section and used a sawz-all in some areas. I could have told him to leave more so there is another 1ft wide section covering the rear kitchen door. Now I wish I had done that in case I am going to keep this and add another post.
> 
> 
> I'm afraid it will be a really epensive job because of the rafters. However the rafters can be accessed from the garage for maybe a quarter of the entire section, the rest is above the kitchen. The attic however goes all the way to the back wall and I remember being able to crawl over the living room and kitchen area. Would that make it accessible to sister in to the rafters?


So get up in the attic and try to get to that area and stop where you think you could nail new to old rafters and mark that. then measure from there back to the peak, that will help you figure out how long your new tails have to be.
So you would install them from the outside with a few nails and screws and nail and screw the top ends.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> So get up in the attic and try to get to that area and stop where you think you could nail new to old rafters and mark that. then measure from there back to the peak, that will help you figure out how long your new tails have to be.
> So you would install them from the outside with a few nails and screws and nail and screw the top ends.



Thanks, one roofing guy who is licensed said he could do it for $600 based on pictures.. another said it could cost $2400 labor plus $400 materials because of needing to tear through the plywood or drywall ceiling to sissy-in to the rafters without knowing what my attic space is like.

I think the attic can be accessed to sissy-in. 

Here is a picture of another house with my type of layout that sold recently. It seems they didn't have much overhang for their garage door or kitchen door so I don't think the rain is a big issue? I think the previous owners with my place just wanted a huge overhang that covered nearly the entire yard when it was all up.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Also, maybe I could add something really lightweight like a sunroof after the original roof shape is restored if for some reason I find the back garage door and kitchen door need more coverage?

What I like is the amount of light getting in to the kitchen now through the door and window now that the overhang is mostly gone. If I widened the existing overhang just a little so it covers the kitchen door more, it will block some of that natural light.

Here's a photo of what the house behind me added. They are actually selling their house but I could add some small section of this over the kitchen door/window and maybe garage door if I find the rain to be an issue..

As for the rest of the patio I was going to put a portable gazebo or patio furniture like tables and chairs with an umbrella. We don't get a whole lot of rain in San Diego and if it's raining I'm not sure I really need to be outside under a patio necessarily although drizzly conditions could maybe make for a romantic setting some day if its not too cold out.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Can't see what they did with the downspout for the roof over the kitchen.
Dealing with that might be hokey but the rest is pretty straight forward.
It is pretty labour intensive and a little material so it is hard to knock the prices.
But there should be no need to to disturb to much of the roof and ceiling.

I mentioned before, a patch on that stucco will look like a patch on the stucco. Just change the upper part to siding.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> Can't see what they did with the downspout for the roof over the kitchen.
> Dealing with that might be hokey but the rest is pretty straight forward.
> It is pretty labour intensive and a little material so it is hard to knock the prices.
> But there should be no need to to disturb to much of the roof and ceiling.
> ...



Thanks, here is another photo I found of that house which has the original roof shape like a lot of the homes in my neighborhood. I wonder if the original would look better than my funny patio overhang remnants with two posts. One thing I could do is maybe put a lattice trim towards the top for decoration or hang a bunch of plants for decoration after I would paint it and add new flashing, etc..


By changing to siding you mean the entire triangle portion to siding and leave the bottom rectangular part as the current stucco? that might be costly as well?

I don't see why it should cost $2400 plus materials to fix the roof shape back as long as the rafter can be accessed from the attic without tearing up the ceiling.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I have had that corrugated fiberglass roof, the weather wares the top surface and then it gets dirty so it needs changing, now you you can get vinyl but it gets brittle. A friend had his done in glass another has acrylic, they both do good but need cleaning
The last owners just spent the money on a poor design. For the same money it could have been really nice.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> I have had that corrugated fiberglass roof, the weather wares the top surface and then it gets dirty so it needs changing, now you you can get vinyl but it gets brittle. A friend had his done in glass another has acrylic, they both do good but need cleaning
> The last owners just spent the money on a poor design. For the same money it could have been really nice.


Thanks those are good points for me to consider. It's so terrible the previous owners probably spend a lot of money on a very large patio overhang. I wanted it off mainly because drywood termites kept attacking it and I didnt want to attract them and have them get into the house. The nice thing now is there is so much more natural light inside the house but the downside is on top of the waste of money from the previous owner, it's going to cost money for the roof modiciation and stucco repair.

I'm hoping the roof shape can be fixed without a whole lot of money spent.

I don't mind the clear plastic/vinyl sunroof type overhangs because those seem easy enough I can replace them myself or clean them when needed.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks, here is another photo I found of that house which has the original roof shape like a lot of the homes in my neighborhood. I wonder if the original would look better than my funny patio overhang remnants with two posts. One thing I could do is maybe put a lattice trim towards the top for decoration or hang a bunch of plants for decoration after I would paint it and add new flashing, etc..
> 
> 
> By changing to siding you mean the entire triangle portion to siding and leave the bottom rectangular part as the current stucco? that might be costly as well?
> ...


So the green house gutter, I have never seen that before, but it is cute.
Instead of cutting the rafter tails plumb they left the end square so the gutter can run down that slope and around all on the same plane. 
You can check what is left on your garage to see if it is the same.

As far as the cost of labour just run thru the work list. 
Remember now a contractor, well a good one has much more expense than just sending a crew out to do the work.
This job if I were to guess would up to 3 days for 2 men. which would be 48 hrs. I think today anywhere up to $100 per hour may not be unreasonable. Depending on the quality of work too.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> So the green house gutter, I have never seen that before, but it is cute.
> Instead of cutting the rafter tails plumb they left the end square so the gutter can run down that slope and around all on the same plane.
> You can check what is left on your garage to see if it is the same.
> 
> ...


Thanks, it's hard to believe in can cost so much to fix a small section of roof like that. I wonder if it would be hard for me to do it myself.

I could possibly also spend maybe $150-$200 for paint, trim wood, flashing, etc and a whole bunch of plants and maybe make what I have look somewhat better.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> So the green house gutter, I have never seen that before, but it is cute.
> Instead of cutting the rafter tails plumb they left the end square so the gutter can run down that slope and around all on the same plane.
> You can check what is left on your garage to see if it is the same.
> 
> ...



It's hard to tell from the photo but It seems the rafter tails on mine also run down the same slope for the gutter section over the garage on mine. The green house and mine are very popular layouts for the houses in my neighborhood.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> It's hard to tell from the photo but It seems the rafter tails on mine also run down the same slope for the gutter section over the garage on mine. The green house and mine are very popular layouts for the houses in my neighborhood.


The angle in question is left of your arrow where the rafter meets the fascia, the green house has left those ends square instead of matching the angle where they come out of the wall.
That would be an easy change to make the gutter system work.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> The angle in question is left of your arrow where the rafter meets the fascia, the green house has left those ends square instead of matching the angle where they come out of the wall.
> That would be an easy change to make the gutter system work.


Thanks, yea that is what I was trying to say is hard to see from my picture with angles showing up in the view but my rafter ends are not vertical, they are perpendicular to the plywood that goes on top of it. I believe my gutter system was probably the same as the green house until the patio overhang was put in.

Here is another photo


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks, yea that is what I was trying to say is hard to see from my picture with angles showing up in the view but my rafter ends are not vertical, they are perpendicular to the plywood that goes on top of it. I believe my gutter system was probably the same as the green house until the patio overhang was put in.
> 
> Here is another photo


There you go I have learned a new trick today.
In that picture we can see a 2x6 running across above the garage door. Can you tell if that is supporting something or is it just there to cover a hole.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> There you go I have learned a new trick today.
> In that picture we can see a 2x6 running across above the garage door. Can you tell if that is supporting something or is it just there to cover a hole.


I think it's there to support part of that overhang the previous owner had added. I don't remember it covering a hole when I had looked from inside the garage.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> I think it's there to support part of that overhang the previous owner had added. I don't remember it covering a hole when I had looked from inside the garage.


Not from the garage, it looks to be covering the ends of the cut rafters and would be open to the attic

But you could still put a 2x4 under each of those rafters and remove it. It looks to me as you could install the new tails before touching the upper stuff that has to come down.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks, yea that is what I was trying to say is hard to see from my picture with angles showing up in the view but my rafter ends are not vertical, they are perpendicular to the plywood that goes on top of it. I believe my gutter system was probably the same as the green house until the patio overhang was put in.
> 
> Here is another photo


Thanks, well the garage has no ceilings at all so from in there I could look and I didn't see any of that wood covering any holes and that wood goes over the garage door as well. I think they put it on there to make it look better because they probably left the original wall and just cut the rafters flush with the wall and then installed that 2 x 6 over the flush rafters/wall and then stucco'd right up to it.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Thanks, well the garage has no ceilings at all so from in there I could look and I didn't see any of that wood covering any holes and that wood goes over the garage door as well. I think they put it on there to make it look better because they probably left the original wall and just cut the rafters flush with the wall and then installed that 2 x 6 over the flush rafters/wall and then stucco'd right up to it.


Yes there will be stucco and wood there like between the rafters at the other end of the garage. Like you said they just cut the rafters and added the 2x6 to hide the rafters.
From inside the garage can you see how they attached the new rafters, Are the just nailed to the side of the old or sitting on blocks at the wall. If you can't see anything, they may have just cut them to fit on op of the sheeting which will make the whole thing easier.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Side question, is the attic of the garage open to the attic of the house even a little bit.
It should be separated by a 5/8 drywall ceiling or a drywalled wall between the two.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> Yes there will be stucco and wood there like between the rafters at the other end of the garage. Like you said they just cut the rafters and added the 2x6 to hide the rafters.
> From inside the garage can you see how they attached the new rafters, Are the just nailed to the side of the old or sitting on blocks at the wall. If you can't see anything, they may have just cut them to fit on op of the sheeting which will make the whole thing easier.


Thanks, what a shame they couldn't just work with the existing rafters when making the patio overhang but maybe it would take the person doing it less time to just cut them flush and cover them with a board. 

I didn't see any evidence of those patio overhang pieces coming inside the garage and some of that 2 x6 goes over the garage door. It seems they fastened those blocks to the wall and maybe some of the structure rests on top of it? They probably used the same technique as they did for the rest of the patio overhang. Over the windows of the living room they must have cut out some stucco and bolted to the studs and covered with boards in between.

Here's a photo that may give some clues.

Wouldn't the job be easier if they actually attached the patio overhang rafters to the old rafters because I could pull those off and put the new ones or even cut those ones? It seems worse that they cut the rafters flush because now I would need to cut holes in the stucco/wall next to each rafter in order to tie in the new ones?


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> Side question, is the attic of the garage open to the attic of the house even a little bit.
> It should be separated by a 5/8 drywall ceiling or a drywalled wall between the two.


It is separated by a drywall. The garage has no ceiling. However I was crawling over the attic a few weeks ago to just look around up there for the first time and I crawled all the way to the wall where the vent is just above the living room window and I looked to my left and could see all the way to what seemed like that drywall separating the space above the kitchen and the garage.

If I needed to pull off some of that to get better access I could. In fact there is a really big hole up there that I taped up for now so it wouldn't be the end of the world to pull that off for access but as I mentioned before I can crawl all the way to that wall over the kitchen from the other side of the attic.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

Yes over the kitchen to save height they cut rafters and just nailed to the rafters, the blocks between the rafters are called pressure blocks. That was what we did before we had hangers. Because the garage comes even lower as it comes out they could not use the same procedure. So they just the new rafters on a long taper and just nailed them on top of the roof so that lower 2x6 is just there to hide the ends of the cut rafters. So that part can be fixed before you demo anything.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> Yes there will be stucco and wood there like between the rafters at the other end of the garage. Like you said they just cut the rafters and added the 2x6 to hide the rafters.
> From inside the garage can you see how they attached the new rafters, Are the just nailed to the side of the old or sitting on blocks at the wall. If you can't see anything, they may have just cut them to fit on op of the sheeting which will make the whole thing easier.


Here's a photo I took before anyone took the overhang off. I was up on the roof and it almost looks like it goes over the area where sheeting originally was. At the very least if the remaning stuff comes out it looks like it may expose the sections where the rafters are making it possible to work from the top instead of going in the attic?

The reason they didn't take the remaining part off is I told them not to leave any roof exposed. We didn't know what would happen if they took off everything and I suspected it would leave the roof exposed where the patio overhang meets up to the regular house shingles. This might make the access easy but would require knocking out some stucco or creating a notch next to each rafter to run the tail rafters through right?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> It is separated by a drywall. The garage has no ceiling. However I was crawling over the attic a few weeks ago to just look around up there for the first time and I crawled all the way to the wall where the vent is just above the living room window and I looked to my left and could see all the way to what seemed like that drywall separating the space above the kitchen and the garage.
> 
> If I needed to pull off some of that to get better access I could. In fact there is a really big hole up there that I taped up for now so it wouldn't be the end of the world to pull that off for access but as I mentioned before I can crawl all the way to that wall over the kitchen from the other side of the attic.


I would cut that hole for this work as it will help with cooling while you are up there.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Here's a photo I took before anyone took the overhang off. I was up on the roof and it almost looks like it goes over the area where sheeting originally was. At the very least if the remaning stuff comes out it looks like it may expose the sections where the rafters are making it possible to work from the top instead of going in the attic?
> 
> The reason they didn't take the remaining part off is I told them not to leave any roof exposed. We didn't know what would happen if they took off everything and I suspected it would leave the roof exposed where the patio overhang meets up to the regular house shingles. This might make the access easy but would require knocking out some stucco or creating a notch next to each rafter to run the tail rafters through right?


I suspect the old sheeting is still there. the garage unfinished ceiling would not need venting but the rest of the house maybe. You want to check the rest of the soffets around the house there should be venting into the attic.

If you end up making a mess out of stucco between rafters you can always hide that with wood.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> I suspect the old sheeting is still there. the garage unfinished ceiling would not need venting but the rest of the house maybe. You want to check the rest of the soffets around the house there should be venting into the attic.
> 
> If you end up making a mess out of stucco between rafters you can always hide that with wood.


I think the original sheeting is still there because when I looked at the roof from inside the garage it all looks the same. I don't know if they kept the sheeting as well over the kitchen area except maybe they just removed some sheeting where it would be lower in height than the patio overhang. I could look inside the attic and see how they tied in and if they took some sheeting out in that area above the attic itself.

The garage has two vents on the side wall. The attic has two vents, one on the forward part of the house and one on the rear above the living room window and above that stucco gap after the overhang came off.

I suppose if I am careful in knocking out some notches for the tail rafters to slide in, the stucco can be repaired when the other stucco patch is fixed by a professional stucco guy.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I think cutting would not be hard to get good enough to fix with caulking after except for the old cut rafters, 
for the stucco
http://multitoolblades.ca/fein-multimaster-blades/flush-cut-diamond-segment-blade.html


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Nealtw said:


> I think cutting would not be hard to get good enough to fix with caulking after except for the old cut rafters,
> for the stucco
> http://multitoolblades.ca/fein-multimaster-blades/flush-cut-diamond-segment-blade.html
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkFscMJ9NWM



Hmmm, well I can tell that they must have remodeled the house and done so many things at one time. The patio overhang was added before the last stucco/paint job to the house. So either way there will be stucco work in the areas above the garage door and kitchen door. I think it won't hurt for me to carefully cut out some holes to slide 2x4s in. My bigger concern with working from the attic (if a lot of the original sheeting is still on) is how to put the tail rafters in and get them flush if there are a bunch of roofing nails coming in. Will I probably need to get a dremel tool and cut roofing nails flush while up there if I want to avoid taking sheeting off (my gut feeling says to leave as much sheeting and shingles alone)? I can see why it would be expensive for someone else to do, but if I can save a ton of money, I would take my sweet time and work from in there little by little, especially if I can leave most of the current stuff up so I have minimal down time when I need to take the remaining patio overhang off, install sheeting, and have someone install shingles so everything is watertight.


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

sdrocker said:


> Hmmm, well I can tell that they must have remodeled the house and done so many things at one time. The patio overhang was added before the last stucco/paint job to the house. So either way there will be stucco work in the areas above the garage door and kitchen door. I think it won't hurt for me to carefully cut out some holes to slide 2x4s in. My bigger concern with working from the attic (if a lot of the original sheeting is still on) is how to put the tail rafters in and get them flush if there are a bunch of roofing nails coming in. Will I probably need to get a dremel tool and cut roofing nails flush while up there if I want to avoid taking sheeting off (my gut feeling says to leave as much sheeting and shingles alone)? I can see why it would be expensive for someone else to do, but if I can save a ton of money, I would take my sweet time and work from in there little by little, especially if I can leave most of the current stuff up so I have minimal down time when I need to take the remaining patio overhang off, install sheeting, and have someone install shingles so everything is watertight.


Two ways to deal with nails in the way.

1 the saw in video with steel blade tied to a stick so you could reach right down from the top or up thru the new hole.

2 cut the 2x4 rafter down to 2 1/2 inches for the section going in the house leaving the 2x4 section outside looking normal.

So I would plan on option 1 and use option 2 only if needed.

The section over the kitchen window will have to come off before you can continue but if done carefully you might leave the plywood up while you work and save any water damage as that part of the roof will still work with a couple 2x4s propping it up.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

Hi All,

Here is the result of having someone clean up the wood a bit and add fascia boards. 

The only thing slightly bugging me is that the corner of the overhang right by the ladder is 89 inches from the ground and 91 inches to the right side of the kitchen door where there is the other corner. That might be approximately an 8 to 10ft span.

I can sort of see the corner by the ladder ever so slightly sagging down. Does anyone else see it? I'm not sure it's significant enough to bother doing something else to that corner such as adding a 4x4 post to that corner. I don't like the look of another post there. The ledger board going into the house wall was shimmed slightly to try and raise that corner higher (it was worse than it is now) and then used some thicker screws meant for ledger board.

It looks ok in the photos mostly but at night with the lights on outside for some reason I could see that corner lower.. but it could be my mind playing tricks on me. I don't know if the 2 inch differential over 10ft is worth worrying about.

Also, I still need to prime and paint (white) and then add the gutters.


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## sdrocker (Sep 24, 2014)

More pics


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