# Goodman Circuit board B1809913



## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

are you having some type of power problems at the unit ?? The solder connections have been a problem in the past..I have talked to several reps with honeywell & they told me that when they checked several bad boards that they found cracked solder connections... I thought they had corrected the problems... It is my understanding most of the boards come from south of the U.S.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

The electrical storm caused some breakers to trip?

Then you robably got a surge to it.

Electonic boards are NOT built to last forever in HVAC.
Mostly because people wouldn't pay the price for the equipment then.


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## tilphan (Mar 29, 2009)

Thanks guys...well what happen is I had 3 breaker tripped. But not to the HVAC. The other strange thing is I have 2 units. Both of them were in the off position. This one unit died. It's just strange to me that the same unit keeps going out when the other one is just fine for the last few years.

I agree with the surge. It's just bad luck I guess.


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## yuri (Nov 29, 2008)

10 yrs is the average life of a circuit board. In a furnace there is vibration and heat and the relays usually fail from use after 10 yrs. Goodman had some problems with the grounding of their boards. If it is on a metal bracket attached to the fan make sure it is tight and put more screws into the bracket if necessary.:thumbsup:


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## tilphan (Mar 29, 2009)

Yuri- thanks..will add screws once the new board arrives tomorrow.


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## kennzz05 (Nov 11, 2008)

i have to comment on the statement about hvac lasting for ever, thats a rather funny statement as if they did this forum wouldnt exsist (it also has the highest number of viewers usually) and none of us would have jobs in the field so um... yea last forever im not seeing that. just my 2 cents


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

tilphan said:


> this is the second time that my circuit board when bad.
> Last time it was 2yrs into the life of the unit.
> after a bad thunderstorm that trip a few breakers in my house, it is once again dead.
> 
> ...


Put a fuse in series with an MOV [or back to back Zeners] which you should put across the board input.

If you're in Florida you may require extraordinary surge protection.


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## jnichols (Mar 23, 2009)

have an electrician install a block surge supressor in line. that may help ,i put them on as part of my standard installs seems to help i've used them on some commercial stuff i work on that was loosing boards and haven't lost one in about 3 years


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

During high electrical weather events the static surge transmitted/conducted

thru the air has been known to take out electronics.

15 years with out a repair on an HVAC system is an exception to the rule.


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## tilphan (Mar 29, 2009)

Well a technician came to change out the circuit board and we tried the AC because it was hot that day. Everythng worked anh he checked the freon level also. It was stupid of me to not also check the heater. I live in Texas and the weather is as wacky as this Goodman unit. . One day cold and one day hot. Anyways, it has gotten cold and will get cold. Today I turned on the heat and it doesn't work. Doesn't work mean, the ignitor comes on but the gas doesn't spray and ignite the unit. Ignitor is red as hell. I checked the gas and it's fine. Is there something on the circuit board that the tech forgot to connect ?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Probably an open roll out switch.


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## tilphan (Mar 29, 2009)

Beenthere..what does that mean? Is it a connection issue or component issue?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Component.

Look for small sensors near the burners. See if any of them are tripped.

Might also be one on the blower housing also.

If any are tripped. You got more trouble then what you though.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

beenthere said:


> Probably an open *roll out switch.*


Furnaces, 101

"The limit control is a safety device that will open the electrical circuit to the ignition control and stop the gas flow if the furnace over heats. The *flame roll out switch* does the same thing if the flame was rolling out of the heat exchanger instead of being completely induced into it by the draft inducer."

I never heard of the thing.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Furnace
http://images.google.com/images?hl=...+roll+out+switch"&btnG=Search+Images&aq=f&oq=
Thanks, Mr. There. . .


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Some roll outs, open the circuit to both the HSI and gas valve, and some just to the gas valve.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en-us&q=hsi+furnace&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

make sure the switch on the gv didn't get turned to the off position by accident


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## tilphan (Mar 29, 2009)

It turns out to be the gas valve. For some odd reason, when the switch closes to send 24V back to the circuit board, it shorts out and blows the fuse. This is what I saw the tech do. I have two units in the attic and to rule out the Circuit board as the culprit, we swapped boards and the other unit works just fine. So now he is coming out to replace the entire piece tomorrow. Any idea how much this will cost? Can the just the switch be replaced or the entire gas valve and switch have to be replaced?


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

If you mean pressure switch.
Its not the switch that is causing the fuse to blow.


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

should ask him the cost.. I don't know what service calls , hr rates run in your location..


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

tilphan said:


> It turns out to be the gas valve. For some odd reason, when the switch closes to send 24V back to the circuit board, it shorts out and blows the fuse. This is what I saw the tech do. I have two units in the attic and to rule out the Circuit board as the culprit, we swapped boards and the other unit works just fine. So now he is coming out to replace the entire piece tomorrow. Any idea how much this will cost? Can the just the switch be replaced or the entire gas valve and switch have to be replaced?


Just for laughs, he should run 24vac directly into the gas valve and compare the current draw with the design value. My gas valve was $400.


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Yoyizit said:


> Just for laughs, he should run 24vac directly into the gas valve and compare the current draw with the design value. My gas valve was $400.


Did you see if it was a Smith and Wesson or a Beretta he collected your money with.

Dang Yoyzit, I don't sell my service cheap but that seems crazy high, what i would charge to show up, diagnose, run for the part, return and install it


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## kenmac (Feb 26, 2009)

hvaclover said:


> Did you see if it was a Smith and Wesson or a Beretta he collected your money with.
> 
> Dang Yoyzit, I don't sell my service cheap but that seems crazy high, what i would charge to show up, diagnose, run for the part, return and install it


 
since your that cheap..I need a service call south of the mason dixion line:yes::laughing:


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

kenmac said:


> since your that cheap..I need a service call south of the mason dixion line:yes::laughing:


OOPS...sorry ....That would be $400 for a limit switch.


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

hvaclover said:


> but that seems crazy high, what i would charge to show up, diagnose, run for the part, return and install it


Probably it cost this much 'cause I left him a 20 minute message at his answering service detailing all the troubleshooting steps I had taken to diagnose this valve.
He showed up at the door with the valve in his hand and we were both laughing. Even his answering service was laughing.
I don't work on gas pipes.:no:
Other fun I have had since 1992 with this 83% Bryant was the high limit switch part cost me $17, the inducer motor $130 and a blower capacitor, $22. The symptoms for the limit switch were very confusing for me even with the factory manual that Bryant sent to me, just for the asking.


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## cpier (Dec 2, 2010)

Greetings All

With the B1809913S board, does this control the blower motor speed?

I have been trying to find a service manual to understand what all it controls but no luck so far finding one.

My Heat and A/C settings both have low air volume and the installer says there is not at problem. I disagree as I feel the lack of air volume from the vents.....

No vent problems found and no return problem found.

The start/run capacitor is good and the blower fan does not appear to be bad.

Thanks Charles


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Other then the typical heating and cooling speed tap terminals. It doesn't control the blower speed.

No return problems? No supply problems? Then your air flow must be ok.

With the thermostats fan switch turned to on. Go to one of your problem registers. See how the air feels blowing out. Then remove your air filter, and see if it blows out more. if so. Your return could use some work. And probably your supply also.


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## cpier (Dec 2, 2010)

When the system was first installed and the blower was running you could feel the resistance when pulling the filter from the return, now it takes little to no effort to pull the filter out with the blower running.

Simply put it is just not the same as it was...


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Is your A/C coil plugged?


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## hvaclover (Oct 2, 2008)

Or your blower wheel is so filled with dirt it can't move air liked it used to.


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