# Applying Sheet Metal



## mandzak (Jan 18, 2016)

So I am wanting to apply 2 sheets of 22g Sheet galvanized steel (each sheet is 103"x48") to a wall in the office for a large magnet board. The sheets will be stacked long ways (so it will be 8' high)

I would like it to be a flat surface without screws, and I am wondering if I should be concerned with the sheet metal ripping off the drywall?

Also I am considering my options for an adhesive, I haven't heard or read any good reviews on Liquid Nail products.

Any advice or suggestions for adhering the metal to the wall would be fantastic.

I may add screws to the corners of each piece but there are not any studs in those portions of the wall.


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## WhatRnsdownhill (Jan 13, 2016)

I believe tile adhesive will work fine, it comes in gallon or bigger containers from home depot...it will give you time to position the steel in place ..I would screw the 4 corners just to keep the metal from sliding down till the adhesive dries...you put the adhesive on with a grooved trowel..


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## mandzak (Jan 18, 2016)

Should I be concerned with the sheet metal peeling off the surface of the drywall?

The drywall is painted, but I am not sure how strong the surface is.
I think each sheet is 48 lbs


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## Bondo (Dec 8, 2007)

Ayuh,.... I'd find a way to tastefully use at least 4 screws in each sheet,....

For glue, silicone applied with a notched trowel would be my 1st choice,...

'course, any glue is gonna be only as strong as the paint under it, unless ya sand it well 1st,....

Any gluin' or paintin' should start with sandin' anyways,....


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## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

Agree, find some attractive screws, maybe stainless, and use a few of them along the top edge to hang it. Get at least two into studs, and put one in each corner into wallboard anchors just for looks.


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## SPS-1 (Oct 21, 2008)

Maybe you can "picture frame" it using some 1 x 3's or decorative molding. Use a 3/4" overlap to hold the 4 sides against the wall. 
Sorry, can't think of a good adhesive for that -- but I would test a small piece of sheet against a piece of wood with PL premium. For sure the PL bond with the wood will be permanent, but the test is how well it bonds to the galvanized steel. Paint has a hard time sticking to galvanized steel without the proper primer, so bonding to galvanized is suspect.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

If it were me, I would use galvanized sheet metal so that you won't have to deal with corrosion of the steel and install each piece of sheet metal vertically so that you don't have to worry about the top piece sliding down.

I would apply strips of 2 inch wide painter's masking tape vertically to the wall every 10 or 11 inches or so. That way, for a 48 inch wide sheet, you have the edge of the metal sticking out 2 to 4 inches past the painter's masking tape. So, even if you stick the metal up a bit crooked, you won't see the tape sticking out from behind the metal.

Then I would apply 2 inch wide double sided carpet tape on top of the 2 inch wide painter's masking tape.

Then I would press the two pieces of sheet metal onto the double sided carpet tape to effectively stick the metal to the wall.

As long as the bottom of the sheet metal is supported by the floor and it's supported all the way up by being stuck to the drywall behind it, it won't buckle or bend under it's own weight.

And, removal of the sheet metal won't mean you'll have a big mess of dried adhesive on the drywall to deal with. The painter's masking tape adhesive isn't so strong as to damage the drywall or paint if removed. And the double sided carpet tape will hold the metal in place securely enough for your purposes.

It might be a good idea to paint the wall with several coats of alkyd primer first. That way if you ever have a problem removing the painter's masking tape in future and need to get it wet to remove the backing paper first and then the glue, the drywall paper behind the alkyd primer won't get wet and soften up on you. Effectively, the alkyd primer would be a moisture barrier. You could also paint over the alkyd primer with a high gloss alkyd paint (for metals) or give it a coat of boiled linseed oil which would dry up in 2 or 3 days, but I'd give it a week or more before you start sticking any tape to that boiled linseed oil.


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## Nestor_Kelebay (Jun 17, 2008)

SPS-1 said:


> Maybe you can "picture frame" it using some 1 x 3's or decorative molding. Use a 3/4" overlap to hold the 4 sides against the wall.
> Sorry, can't think of a good adhesive for that -- but I would test a small piece of sheet against a piece of wood with PL premium. For sure the PL bond with the wood will be permanent, but the test is how well it bonds to the galvanized steel. Paint has a hard time sticking to galvanized steel without the proper primer, so bonding to galvanized is suspect.


I've used LePage's PL Premium to stick galvanized 1/8 inch thick steel plate to the tops of fence posts to keep the rain water off them, and PL Premium bonds galvanized steel to wood very well.

I don't agree that painting galvanized metal is problematic. Just wipe the zinc down with vinegar first to etch it and give it "tooth", clean the vinegar off with a clean water rinse, dry apply an alkyd primer, and then paint.


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