# Floor under attic joists but about sheetrock ceiling broke



## Chris616 (Dec 31, 2019)

Are the attic pictures from above the garage, or are the attic pictures from some other room?

Please move some of the insulation out of the way so that we can see the “broken boards” that you’re describing. 

The white cord hanging from the end of the piece of wood in the garage picture, and the fact that it is aligned with the trusses, makes it look to me like some sort of (ill fitting) access hatch to the space above the garage.

Chris


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

I can not imagine a space between boards and ceiling below the trusses. 

I agree, move some insulation and show us what you are taking about.


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## Jaybo1985 (Jan 5, 2020)

Thank you for the first answers.
Here is a picture of what the board looks like.
It looks to me like a sheetrock board.
It is 100% not the ceiling.


Any suggestions about how to either repair or replace?


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## Nealtw (Jun 22, 2017)

We would expect to the see the back of drywall like this, your picture does not show anything.


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## Jaybo1985 (Jan 5, 2020)

Hello,


I went back into the attic again today and took the attahced pictures.
The sheetrock boards are secured to the bottom of the trusses and they did not break. What happend is that the nails which they were secured with are still in the trusses but the boards basically slippled down and off the nail and are now laying on the A/C ductwork and the ceiling (also sheetrock). The sheetrock boards are not broken. How can I raise them back up and secure them back to the trusses? The boards are 4x8 feet.
What can I do?


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Still no clue still what your talking about.
There's no such thing as "sheet rock boards".
There is no "truss's" in the pictures, there stick build rafters.
Something just looks really wrong in that whole set up.
4 X 4's used as ceiling joist, butt joints not even set on top of the top plates over the walls!
Screws should have been used to hold up the sheet rock, not nails, and it should have been 5/8 not 1/2" if that turns out what it is.


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

I'll attempt to understand what you are saying . . .
I see the truss attic. I believe you gave the garage pic to just show the ceiling drywall, but that is not where your problem is, it is actually over another part of the house?

"Sheetrock" is commonly put up with nails around the outer edge, in older houses almost exclusively with nails. The nails can pop through if, say, there is heavy weight or you step on it from above (as will screws) and the sheet of drywall could possibly sag.

You speak of a layer of drywall, holding up the insulation, but has fallen onto a duct, but there is still a separate ceiling below that. What I picture is a soffit area built for the duct. Oftentimes a piece of drywall (or whatever is around, cardboard etc.) will be fastened either inside this soffit (in the same plane as the ceiling) or just layed on top of the top plates to prevent the blown-in insulation from filling up this soffit cavity. This may be the piece you are talking about, however I do not know how it is a full 4x8 sheet.


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## schreibdave (Jun 12, 2016)

Shot in the dark here ... the guys blowing in the new insulation stepped on the sheetrock and the nails pulled through? The sheetrock is still suspended but it needs to be screwed up again? Just a guess.


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## Jaybo1985 (Jan 5, 2020)

Hello 3onthetree and schreibdave,


both of your descriptions/undestandings are accurate.
Sorry I do not have the proper language.


It is a panel like this one.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/USG-She...-8-ft-Firecode-X-Panels-14211011308/100321591


The nails pulled through and the panel is now laying on top of the duct which runs over the ceiling of our rooms.
How to I get the panel lifted of the ductwork and reattached to the rafters?


Thank you!


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## schreibdave (Jun 12, 2016)

Jaybo1985 said:


> Hello 3onthetree and schreibdave,
> 
> 
> both of your descriptions/undestandings are accurate.
> ...


You would reattach the sheetrock to the wood framing with 1.5" sheetrock screws and a battery operated drill/driver with a phillips head bit. You would have a helper hold the drywall tight against the framing while you drive screws through the drywall into the wood framing. The trick is to drive the screw just deep enough that it leaves a dimple in the drywall without breaking through the drywall paper. If you break through the paper, move over an inch or two and drive another screw being more careful. You want a screw every 16" or so. If you go to Lowes, Home Depot or a hardware store and tell them what you need to do they can set you up with the tools/materials.

Here's a video that might be helpful:http://https://youtu.be/KmQSQdl6VUQ


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## 3onthetree (Dec 7, 2018)

So you cannot get under this fallen sheet from below to push it back up to the bottom of the trusses. Still not entirely sure what's going on with a 4x8 sheet, but here's what I would do (still guessing your situation):

If someone, say, punches a hole in the wall, sometimes the drywall will be pushed in and still hangin on with the paper backing. One fix is put in a screw into the flapping piece and grab the screw to pull the flap back into place. So essentially do a similar process here.

On one consistent side of every truss joist space from the attic, brush the insulation aside and screw a 2x2x4' down into the fallen drywall. Position this 2x2 so it will align parallel right next to the bottom truss chord when raised up. Once it is secure to the drywall, pull up on the 2x2 (by using the claw of the hammer under the rounded edge of the 2x2, or just hook it into the side of the 2x2) until the drywall is against the bottom chord. Then fasten through the side of the 2x2 into the truss chord.

That combines a way to pull up and fasten it to the truss. You may have to put more "blocks" to grab hold of the drywall or have a helper. Another lifting option is just bustin a hole thru it, sticking your hand or a flat bar hook in and pulling it up (if its just to keep insulation out of a soffit you can lay a scrap piece over any holes), but you'll still need some blocks to fasten it.

Oh, and put a scrap plywood or some boards across the trusses so you have firm footing to stand on while doing this.


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## schreibdave (Jun 12, 2016)

Jaybo - more and better pictures would help us give you better answers.


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