# Peel Away 1



## poppameth (Oct 2, 2008)

So long as you got the neutralizer with it you shouldn't have anything to worry about. We've used and sold a ton of the stuff. You put the paste on, press the paper into it and let it set for a few hours. Peel the paper back and use a putty knife as you go to help with removal. Also have some water handy. Sometimes you'll need to rewet it a bit as you work to get it peeling well. After you have it completely clean you have to spray it with a neutralizer to remove the alkaline residue. If you are using a darker stain then the discoloration shouldn't matter much and there shouldn't be any other drawbacks.


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

*thank you poppameth!*

The directions say 12 hours, but its only three coats of paint that I just put on a week ago. If it really only takes four hours or so I would really be happy because I just took in my niece and her two kids and working around their schedule is no fun:no: (worrying about them being home during the application-scary stuff)

It says for indoor use that I could use white vinager as a neutralizer..but if you think their product would be a wiser choice I will grab some. 

Thank you for your reply, I appreciate your help!


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## NCpaint1 (Aug 13, 2009)

Im assuming that the stairs are Oak. The paint gets into the grain and is a pain to completely remove. You may need to do some sanding after you strip. I would get some 60-80 grit sandpaper and an electric palm sander. This should work well in getting any remaining paint off after you strip. It should also brighten the wood some and make it ready for stain.


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

*eh,*

I have no idea what the stairs are made of..sorry:huh:
unfortunatly, the neighborhood was built pretty much all at once in the mid 70's and this area is well known for poor quality split level ranches so ..if anything was oak I would be surprised!

I will do that..sounds like a plan..thank you so much for your help


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

unlikely it is anything but oak. but sanding after neutralizing will give you the results you want. Use a precondtioner, stain, sealer and two top coats for the refinishing.


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

Bob Mariani said:


> unlikely it is anything but oak. but sanding after neutralizing will give you the results you want. Use a precondtioner, stain, sealer and two top coats for the refinishing.


ah, I was wondering if I should use a preconditioner. I bought a pre sealer (that you have to mix with denatured alcohol) and some preconditioner. 

Is this the correct order after sanding?:

preconditioner, pre sealer, stain, sealer , then from my understanding the wood filler (I have alot of carpet tack holes) , then poly?

I have been painting walls while trying to gather up enough info to do this correctly...I really wish I found this forum before I bought the paint..not so happy with it. Oh well, next time

The only thing I do not like about this forum is that I really can't help anyone. I hate that..its sort of just me asking a bunch of questions, but I am not contributing. 
Thanks to everyone here that takes their time to help with questions..its really a nice thing you are doing :thumbsup:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

kimber said:


> I really wish I found this forum before I bought the paint..not so happy with it.


i just HAVE to ask, what brand of paint?

DXM


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

DangerMouse said:


> i just HAVE to ask, what brand of paint?
> 
> DXM


Care to take a guess?:laughing:


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## DangerMouse (Jul 17, 2008)

nah.... too easy....

DM


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

Kimber, you're actually contributing just by asking a question. 

If someone does a search for 'Peel Away 1', they'll come across this thread and possibly have some of their own questions answered.

My house was also built in the 70's and is a split-level. I pulled the carpet up off the steps about 8 or 9 years ago. They're made of oak, but they've never had any kind of a finish put on them. 

All these years I've been trying to decide what to do with them. I saw a picture where the steps were stained dark and the risers were painted white. The wood that goes along side the steps (skirting?)was painted white also. It all looked really sharp.

I thought about staining the risers the same color as the steps, but they're made of some kind of pine. So paint seems like the only other option, but I'm afraid it will get scuffed from shoes and look bad after a few months.

Are you staining the steps, risers and the wood that runs along side the steps? 

If you can, it would be great if you could post some pictures.


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## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

The wood that goes along side the steps (skirting?)was painted white also.

Stringer?


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## gma2rjc (Nov 21, 2008)

That's the word I was looking for. 

Thanks Chrisn


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

not sure that you will need a pre-sealer. Order was correct. preconditioner soaks in to prevent blotching and uneven stain penetration. Sealer raises the grain. Sand after this. wood filler would go before stain to the filler will match color. Or do it last with wood putty, mixing the color yourself to get a perfect match.


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

*thanks everyone,,*

I used to get emails everytime I got a response on my threads..idk..can't seem to figure anything out anymore.

Thanks Bob 

gma..I haven't even had the house to myself to even start this project over again..its been one mess after another.

It never occured to me that the tread and the risers were two different woods (duh) but getting the paint off the risers has been one heck of a fight. Our stairs were finished at one time.. but they just looked terrible and you were right about the scuffs on the risers..you would scrub but they still looked a mess right afterwards due to them being kicked constantly. I was even toying with the idea of putting some decorative ..idk..rock looking tile on there. 

I think if I painted anything white it would be incredibly dumb of me..with two dogs , now two kids, and it just being such a high traffic area. Im stumped. I was going to strip or at least sand the stringers and paint them the dark brown that I originally painted the steps. Stain and poly the stairs- and the risers? ..I still dont know..im sort of losing my direction.

Thank you so much for your help everyone..if it comes out decent I will take a picture..if it doesn't I'm going on to another project and hope you all forget to ask me about the stairs:thumbup:


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

*I have a major mess on my hands.*

My guess is that I did not put this product on thick enough and when I attempted to pull the paper off this morning the product stayed on the stairs and it is like cement. I have gotten off most of it with a scraper, water and vinegar ...I'm actually going to have to try to take off the stringers because its just not coming off-theres no way im going to get this stuff out of the corners. Anyways, the peel away product on the steps will not come off no matter what. Does anyone know if it would be safe to get out my sander and just sand the crap off. When I write worried, I dont mean inhaling the dust , I mean the friction from the sander and the product catching on fire and me turning into a big ball of flames.:whistling2: Nothing about this project would surprise me anymore.


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## Bob Mariani (Dec 1, 2008)

to get the hardened material off just reapply the peel-away again.


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

*ah Bob*

I was afraid you were going to say that.

I don't have any more peel away 1..I think they sell peel away 7 at Home Depot. I am wondering if I can put 7 over 1 ..I really do not want to use 1 again. What do you think? 

and thanks for your help Bob:wink: I really never want to look at another stair again.


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## Mudball (Aug 15, 2009)

Just wanted to suggest that since your steps are 20+ years old I was wondering if all your time and money might be better applied to a new set of pressure treated steps but you will have to make that call of course. The large stores carry all the tread and risers material and attachments if needed not to mention many of it is already cut and made to install or they can cut material for you at no extra cost. I was just thinking that this way you can stain them a dark color like you want. This might be a bit more investing of time, materials, and labor than you want but wanted to mention it so that you might want to check out the cost of it next time your at the store.
Good luck.


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

*hello mudball *

I was doing a favor for my mom...and the company I worked for closed so like everyone else, my budget is tight. I was just trying to do something nice for her and it backfired. At this point though, yes I probably could of had half the stairs done professionally-I have spent about lets see...about $140.00 on strippers alone (and not the good kind:laughing Bought floor paint, looked terrible...there goes another $100...and then I jught bought all the stain, conditioner, poly supplies etc -$75. Now the stairs and surrounding woodwork are covered in this crap that is cemented on and I most likely have to replace all of that. I know home owners refinish stairs every day..I also know that everyone has a project that just goes wrong in every way and I guess this is mine. I guess at the very least I am learning-right?:huh:

Thanks for your replies ..I really appreciate everyones help!


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## kimber (Aug 24, 2009)

All right, I am somewhat having success at getting this stuff off with more peel away but the whole steps etc. I sprayed with water and vinegar and everything is still covered in white residue... anyone ANYONE have any ideas as to how to get this off...tsp substitute maybe? gasoline? 

I also am pretty sure that I murdered the stairs. The peel away has been on it for so long and so many times that its just ...dark, very dark. I am pretty sure staining is out of the question now (unless they make a deep poopy color) and since I ruined any chances of going in that direction, I am back to painting the darn things I guess. 
Any good floor paint suggestions..last kind I used was valspar porch and floor..dull sheen and it looked horrible. Help me salvage the little bit of dignity I have left. 

Thanks


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## poppameth (Oct 2, 2008)

Are you sure you put the paper on with the right side out? This stuff is like Tyvek. It lets moisture through one way but not the other. If you reverse it, all you moisture escapes. Usually Peel Away 1 comes off easily with a little scraping and wetting. It sounds like the chemical has burned the wood at this point. Have you tried giving them a good sanding with 80-120 grit paper?


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