# Very slow gas leak is okay



## KCnorthernCA (Jun 19, 2006)

I'm interviewing plumbers for a gas line extension and had a nice long conversation with this seemingly VERY experienced, very knowledgeable, very skilled, state-licensed, totally no-nonsense guy who seemingly has no reason to bullsh*t me about the dangers of gas leaks.

Bottom line is that he thinks a very slow gas leak, for example an overnight drop of 5 psi when pressure tested at 15 psi, which is required to hold for just 10 minutes for the inspector, is okay. He's said that it would be safe enough, and regardless of location, whether it's behind the range, inside a cooktop cabinet in the kitchen... or underfloor.

He says furthermore that high pressure testing is damaging to the pipe system, which makes some sense. In our area natural gas comes in at between 2 and 5 psi, and he says gas does NOT leak much at those low pressures.

The thought is just annoying to me.

This flies against common sense — that having ANY GAS LEAK is downright dangerous. But on the other hand, there's also some sense in having a tolerance of acceptability. The code requirement for testing must be so lax for a reason. Who can be so perfect.

So what's your take (and what's your professional background)?


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

No professional background.

I would say that any measurable leak in the interior of the house needs to be fixed before the system is put in operation.

Depending on how well sealed the interior of the house is (for energy efficiency) and how long the gas has gone on leaking, you can build up a mixture of gas and air that is explosive.

Pilot lights in water heaters and furnaces have an interlock based on a thermocouple to stop the pilot light gas feed and prevent gas from accumulating in the house if the pilot light was accidentally extinguished.

If the main gas shutoff were turned to "off" and pipes were disconnected and worked on, then the gas already in the pipes and allowed to escape would probably not be enough to cause an explosion. But if there were a small leak enough to let the pressure drop from 5 psi to 2 psi while you were out, the pressure won't really drop to 2 psi but would rather be replenished with more gas from the main, and over a period of hours you could get an explosive mixture.


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## Scuba_Dave (Jan 16, 2009)

No background either....but



> My house didn’t explode into flames; my family didn’t asphyxiate in their sleep, nothing as dramatic as that. No, our leak was slow and undetectable to ourselves and visitors to our home. We lived in our house for nearly 4 years before we discovered what was making us all sick. Very sick.
> My family developed several medical conditions as a result of our exposure. No one was left untouched by the exposure, even our pets.


http://www.gas-leak.org/

http://www.homelandnaturalgas.com/VictimsOfNaturalGasPoisoning.html


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## zircon (Sep 24, 2007)

*NY Times article*

Background-Jack of some trades

NY Times has a page one article today(read it online) that says natural gas leaks are a major cause of global warming equivalent to half of coal fired generating plants. They are talking about leaks at the well head, and major transmission lines and storage tanks.


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## KCnorthernCA (Jun 19, 2006)

All comments so far are appreciated, but you're still describing only the dangers of an obvious gas leak.

The topic here in essence is about the _level of acceptability_.

Sure we can all cry our faces blue over any absolute black and white simple nothing issue before us in written words in theory. But just as the FDA allows a *MINIMUM* number of rodents in large food storage silos and not an absolute antiseptic requirement (that's why you find at least one rodent hair in every box of cereal you buy), the real world of production and practice is starkly different.

So if this is turned into a poll, the poll would be two-part reading something like:

Part 1
What would you do if your gas pipes tested to pass inspection (holding 15 psi for 10 minutes), but you decided to leave the pressure gauge connected overnight only to notice a slow drop to 10 psi next morning?

A. You look the other way. It's fine. No problem
B. You lose sleep but you can't do anything. It's code compliant
C. You complain but the plumber and the inspector laugh at you
D. You insist on having it fixed but the plumber can't find the leak
E. You suggest high pressure testing, but plumber balks
F. You do your own high pressure testing whatever
G. You buy more property insurance

Part 2
What level of leak would satisfy you?
A. 10 psi holding for 15 minutes as long as the needle gauge looks fairly still
B. 15 psi holding for 10 minutes with no noticeable needle movement
C. 15 psi must hold for 1 hour, needle can drop slowly after that
D. 15 psi must hold for 24 hours
D. 15 psi must hold forever, like weeks and months and years
E. 60 psi must hold forever


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## AllanJ (Nov 24, 2007)

I would want the normal testing pressure to hold for 24 hours or such greater time as code specifies. If it doesn't I would want the installing plumber to make a good faith effort to find and fix any additional leaks after which I will accept passing code, which should be factual and cut and dry but if not, passing code in my opinion (as opposed to the plumber's opinion).


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## Plumber101 (Feb 25, 2009)

I agree with the plumber and I disagree and this is why

1. Most codes require a testing of 20 psi for 30 minutes (At least mine does and if you are under the International or Uniform Plumbing Code this is the requirement) This is a fairly common time/pressure. I have never heard of a testing pressure of 10 or 15 and it has always been 30 mins.

2. The gas pressure entering the house after testing is MUCH less than testing pressure. If you are natural gas the pressure is reduced to 9-10 Inch Water Column and LPG 11-12. 

Now what does that mean well 1 psi is equal to 27.68 in wc. So at 9 or 10 in wc you are less than one half of one psi entering your house for gas service. So a VERY VERY VERY small leak most likely will not be found. Sometimes a very small leak will need a higher pressure to reveal it to the plumber or home owner for repair.

As far as Scuba Dave situation (IMO) had a larger leak which required a high pressure to be found and when the system is pressure tested at 20 psi for 30 mins, it would fail the test, thus needing a repair

Almost all gas lines have a small leak and will fail the test going 24 hrs. These systems are not hermitically seal but thread and thread seal tightened.

I personnally will set the pressure on a pressure test and run the 30 mins and go look at the gauge, if no movement then go another 30 mins, if a leak I will spray all fitting joints with soapy water mix and check for bubbles and then make repairs and then retest.

Keep in mind that you gas pressure will and should never be at the same pressure used for testing and if it does you will know it. Furnace will act up, water heaters could over heat and so on.

Hope this helps


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## spark plug (May 5, 2009)

zircon said:


> Background-Jack of some trades
> 
> NY Times has a page one article today(read it online) that says natural gas leaks are a major cause of global warming equivalent to half of coal fired generating plants. They are talking about leaks at the well head, and major transmission lines and storage tanks.


since this is not a blog about Politics, I will not give my opinion of the New York Times, but we are concerned about the short/er term effects of a gas leak (small as it may be) on health and safety. The point of the OP was. That they were astonished to hear a so-called "licensed and accredited professional" make such a statement. As all the posters have pointed out, the Negative effects of Natural Gas leaks are very real, on both, health and safety. Eliminate confusion :yes::no: Through Education! Don't Drink and Drive, :drink:Ever!!!


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## WaldenL (Jan 9, 2009)

Level of experience: DIYer

What would I _want_? I'd want there to be zero leakage in my gas system. Not a little, not a tiny amount, but zero. However... I don't live on Planet Pretend, I live here. And here there are things called engineering tolerances. There's the reality that not every fitting will seat exactly perfectly. Not every thread is machined to perfection. The fact that we use pipe dope or (yellow) Teflon tape on the threads shows that. 

The code calls for 20 psi for 30 minutes. Would I like to see 20 psi for maybe an hour? Sure. But at some point it's not a perfect system, and it will leak. A 5 psi drop overnight? Not sure. Define overnight. Hookup at noon, comeback at noon? 5 psi over 24 hours at 40 times the pressure of the gas that will be in the system? I would probably be ok with that. That of course assumes there wasn't a drop in psi over 30 minutes.


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## spark plug (May 5, 2009)

WaldenL said:


> Level of experience: DIYer
> 
> What would I _want_? I'd want there to be zero leakage in my gas system. Not a little, not a tiny amount, but zero. However... I don't live on Planet Pretend, I live here. And here there are things called engineering tolerances. There's the reality that not every fitting will seat exactly perfectly. Not every thread is machined to perfection. The fact that we use pipe dope or (yellow) Teflon tape on the threads shows that.
> 
> The code calls for 20 psi for 30 minutes. Would I like to see 20 psi for maybe an hour? Sure. But at some point it's not a perfect system, and it will leak. A 5 psi drop overnight? Not sure. Define overnight. Hookup at noon, comeback at noon? 5 psi over 24 hours at 40 times the pressure of the gas that will be in the system? I would probably be ok with that. That of course assumes there wasn't a drop in psi over 30 minutes.


Your points are 100% on target. There are engineering data on the permeation (and dissipation) of gas in the air that we breathe (measured in ppm. & ppb.) and the tolerances of joints and seals. But for a professional to tell a lay person that "A little bit of gas won't kill you" sounds horrible. We really strive for zero tolerance. But since that is impossible we're satisfied if it's up to code. Eliminate confusion :yes::no: Through Education;
(No matter what):drinkon't Drink and Drive, Ever!!!


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## Yoyizit (Jul 11, 2008)

There must also be an assumption in these numbers that no house is airtight or that doors or windows will eventually be opened.


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## WaldenL (Jan 9, 2009)

Yoyizit said:


> There must also be an assumption in these numbers that no house is airtight or that doors or windows will eventually be opened.


At the worst they'll be opened by the police when they come to take our your dead asphyxiated body. :laughing:


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## JDC (Mar 11, 2008)

Here we test gas lines at 30psi for 30 minutes although I usually put it on test and leave it until inspection....which could take up to 3 days. The inspections are done by our local gas/electic provider, Duke Energy. When they inspect, they put their own testing device on the system. They use a Kohlman gauge (may have the spelling wrong on that) that is ultra sensitive. If it passes their own test then I'm good with it.


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## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Methane (natural gas) per se is not listed as a toxic gas. Like all simple asphixants (carbon dioxide, nitrogen for example) it displaces oxygen from the air, and if the oxygen level gets low enough, you die from lack of oxygen.

However, the lower explosive limit for methan is 5%, and the upper explosive limit is 15%, so you are likely to blow up your house long before the concentration of methane reaches a level capable of asphyxiating you.

That said, all methane distributed in the United States is odorized with a chemical like thiophane that is designed to warn occupants when there has been a leak. Thiophane is the familiar "rotten egg" odor of natural gas. Pure methane has no odor so far as I know, which is why the thiophane is added. According to an article on odorization I found at http://unece.org/trans/doc/2008/wp29grsp/SGS-2-04e.pdf
the standard is for a human to be able to detect a natural gas leak at 1 percent methane concentration, which is 5 times below the lower explosive limit.

None of this answers the simple question about how dangerous it is if the pressure drop test passes, but there is still a slow leak. I do not have natural gas in my house, however if I did, I would purchase a couple of methane detectors (similar to carbon monoxide detectors) and place them strategically in the house, probably one in the kitchen and one in the hallway. My concern would be that over time, a leak could develop in the pipes that was not present during initial installation. My guess is that like electrical wiring, once installed gas lines are not routinely checked, and like electrical lines they are subject to slow deterioration, especially at the valves, hence could potentially develop leaks after several years of service. The detector would not identify the source of the leak, but would at least warn the occupants that there is a hazard, and allow them to get the source of the leak located and fixed.


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## spark plug (May 5, 2009)

*Debate about "Negligible" Gas leak, Cont.*

Daniel Holzman (civil Engineer) (Post #14) I did not post your quote because I don't know (yet) how to fractionalize a quote and the entire piece would take up too much space.)
You make some strong (theoretical) points. But when the standard is 30 psi for 30 Min. and the system passes that test, then any gas that (still) leaks is not "negligible" but hypothetical. Furthermore, no house is hermetically sealed. Doors and windows are eventually opened. And if a significant leak develops in time, there is always the Odorization that ALL the utilities are adding, to alert people.
p.s.: In NYC, Gas inspections are done by City Inspectors, who are all former tradesmen, who spent most of their adult life working in that trade, as are Electrical Inspectors.As opposed to some smaller Municipalities who employ "Multi-Service" Inspectors, which is not as high a standard as lifetime specialized professionals. Eliminate confusion:yes::no: Through Education; :drinkon't Drink and Drive, Ever!!!


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## Suzanne99 (Jul 17, 2015)

*What about sealed attics with gas lines in them?*

What about the homes that are being constructed with sealed attics and spray foam insulation (like Icynene) when gas lines are installed in the attic (only the lines, not any equipment)? These attics purposely have zero venting and air circulation. Even though open cell SPF is air and water permeable, the roof is well sealed with peel & stick, so there is no air getting through there. How can the hazard of a potential gas leak be mitigated if venting cannot be installed? Install an AC vent and return?


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## joed (Mar 13, 2005)

6 year old thread. I hope the issue is resolved by now.


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## Javiles (Dec 12, 2011)

interviewing plumbers ? on a gas leak repair or extension how can you interview someone on something you absolutely no nothing about, This is one of the reasons i've been staying away from giving advice on these DYI sites the things some people come up with is mind blowing frustrating and just plain stupid. why do people beat around the bush with nonsense. its not a leaking hose bibb its gas!!! a gas leak call a licensed gas contractor, get an evaluation not happy get a second does it match with the first? get 3 bids 2 should be within a few dollars go with lower of the higher 2 get it in writing and get it done. these are the people that get their house blown up from under them while sitting on line wasting time.


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## ddawg16 (Aug 15, 2011)

"Good Enough". Not good enough.

Makes me glad I did my own plumbing.

Just a quick additional note.

The leak down spec of say 5 PSI in 30 min for a system pressurized to say 20 PSI can get you in trouble.

Say you have 200' total of gas pipe. 5 PSI in 30 min? That is quite a bit of gas.

Say you have 10' total of gas pipe. That same 5 PSI is not nearly as much gas....much smaller leak.

I'm the camp of 0 PSI loss over 24 hours.


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Pressure will fluctuate with temperature.


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## Suzanne99 (Jul 17, 2015)

*very slow gas leaks*

The gas pipes were installed by the most-recommended installer in town, that's all he does. It has passed the test. My worry is that at some point in time, most pipes will leak to some degree, hopefully in minute amounts. If the attic is tightly sealed with SPF (there are no windows or doors to open other than one access, also sealed), then gas will accumulate if it has no place to go. I'm not sure I could sleep at night, wondering if there's a time bomb up there. I will install sensors for sure, but not sure if I want to stake my life on them. I'm just hoping there is a way.


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## ben's plumbing (Oct 6, 2011)

very slow gas leak ..NO ITS NOT OK... NEVER WAS AND NEVER WILL BE.. UNLESS YOU DON'T MIND PUTTING YOUR FAMILY AT RISK..:thumbsup::thumbsup:


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

Suzanne99 said:


> The gas pipes were installed by the most-recommended installer in town, that's all he does. It has passed the test. My worry is that at some point in time, most pipes will leak to some degree, hopefully in minute amounts. If the attic is tightly sealed with SPF (there are no windows or doors to open other than one access, also sealed), then gas will accumulate if it has no place to go. I'm not sure I could sleep at night, wondering if there's a time bomb up there. I will install sensors for sure, but not sure if I want to stake my life on them. I'm just hoping there is a way.


Don't worry. Your very tightly SPF sealed attic is going to leak *LONG* before seamless gas pipe and connections that passed the test will leak.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

BTY, the next time you hire a plumber to do black iron gas piping ask him if he will be using seamed or seamless pipe.


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## jogr (Jul 24, 2007)

Suzanne99 said:


> The gas pipes were installed by the most-recommended installer in town, that's all he does. It has passed the test. My worry is that at some point in time, most pipes will leak to some degree, hopefully in minute amounts. If the attic is tightly sealed with SPF (there are no windows or doors to open other than one access, also sealed), then gas will accumulate if it has no place to go. I'm not sure I could sleep at night, wondering if there's a time bomb up there. I will install sensors for sure, but not sure if I want to stake my life on them. I'm just hoping there is a way.


 
Suzanne, your attic should not be completely sealed. If it is sealed from the outside envirniment then it is conditioned space and should exchange air from within the house. If it sealed from the inside environment then the attic should be ventilated to the outside with proper attic vents. It should never be a static area that is sealed from both the outside and inside. All space needs air exchange.


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## cwatkins (Dec 7, 2015)

*risk of gas leak*



Suzanne99 said:


> What about the homes that are being constructed with sealed attics and spray foam insulation (like Icynene) when gas lines are installed in the attic (only the lines, not any equipment)? These attics purposely have zero venting and air circulation. Even though open cell SPF is air and water permeable, the roof is well sealed with peel & stick, so there is no air getting through there. How can the hazard of a potential gas leak be mitigated if venting cannot be installed? Install an AC vent and return?


Suzanne,

I have the same concern you have. Did you ever get a satisfactory answer regarding how to reduce the risk? My wife and I bought a house in Florida last year and it has several flexible gas lines connected to a gas distribution manifold in one section of the attic. The attic appears to be totally sealed with the spray foam type of insulation. I have talked to the builder, gas company, roofer, plumber, etc. and no one has a solution or even seems to recognize the risk. I experienced a tragedy a number of years ago that resulted in several deaths from a gas leak in a metal building without attic ventilation. The risk is real. I'm hoping you found a solution.

cwatkins


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## Suzanne99 (Jul 17, 2015)

Here is the solution I came up with for my ICF, SPF sealed attic, tight house in humid Florida for the gas/toxic accumulation, air quality, humidity, and air pressure problems (you must address air quality, toxic pollution accumulation, air pressure, humidity, and temperature all together as a system) : 
1) Install a fan/damper/vent in the peak of the attic to exhaust attic air periodically or continuously to the outside. Natural gas and humid steam rise and accumulate up thetre. This is not expensive, even a bath fan/damper in the wall with dampered vent to the outside would work.
2) Install a 6" duct in the AC supply plenum (in the attic) to open into the attic for conditioned air circulation and to provide make up air equal to the air being exhausted so there will be no negative pressure in the attic or house below. An SPF attic is close to the same temp as the house, so this should not load down the AC AFTER #3 below. 
3) Install a Honeywell DR120 ventilating dehumidifier (so the fresh air intake is dehumidified), then fed into the AC supply plenum for distribution to the house and attic. Set it so it runs continuously, even when the AC is NOT running - this is VERY important. We have many, many days when the AC or heat are not running, and just the air handler fan alone does not dehumidify, it only moves air, which is only a minor help.
4) Install plug-in sensors for natural gas/smoke in the light socket/receptacles across the high parts of the attic (use the CO/smoke at the low levels), and plug in 'listeners' in the receptacles in the house below so we will be sure to hear the siren in the attic if it goes off (which are quite loud anyway). If you have any fireplaces, even the sealed ones like I have, the duct pipes go through the attic and these are more prone to leaks than the gas pipes, so gas codes will likely require venting. This will cover it.
5) I will also install a separate vent/fan/damper in a central, lower area of the house below that will exhaust the lower level pollution (CO, CO2, propane, particulates, etc. that sink) to the outside. The stack effect can keep this pollution from dissipating so circulation at the bottom is a good idea. Again, a bath fan in the wall and damper at an outside vent works, but the units actually made for this are cheaper and quieter (check sound ratings). 
6) I'm also installing a new AC unit that is multi-stage with air handler that is variable speed so it runs slowly and more often, which will help remove more humidity. Do not get the fresh air intake option for it though, the humid air coming into the AC can cause mold in the AC and duct work! The Honeywell unit is like a small AC, it has coils so it dehumidifies the air going into the AC plenum. I'm also installing returns in every room.
7) Installing a separate vent/fan/damper to provide make-up air for the gas range hood since it is 52,000 BTU so the hood has to be min. 520 cfm. The fan exhaust also goes through the attic so there is another potential source of pollution up there.
8) Installing an RH and barostat in addition to a thermostat so I can monitor the house conditions (even from a Iphone). Set a good range of sensitivity, and you can wire them to your exhaust systems to come on as programmed.
9) Make sure you add up all the cfms that your house will exhaust (bath fans, range hood, etc.) to ensure you provide close to equal make-up air to keep the pressure slightly positive. Put timers on the bath fans so they won't suck all the air out of your house if left on.
10)DO NOT install pass-thru vents in your house ceiling to the attic, this will force you to get an ignition barrier sprayed onto your SPF at the roof deck. As long as there is no direct attic-house communication (which is against code right now), the ceiling drywall is your ignition barrier. 
11) Make sure you can control your vent dampers to the outside so you can shut them off if smoke, lawn sprays, etc. are in the area. 
12) Learn to minimize use of scented candles, chemicals and sprays in the house because the fumes will stick around a long time.
I can give you more details if I have't scared you off yet. As you have also found, there are NO 'systems engineers' for houses. It's super annoying to constantly be told to consult your 'professional.' There is NO SUCH THING (related to this) readily available to us lay folks. I've gleaned bits and pieces of data from lots of good people, but no one person is an expert in this whole thing. The good ones are in the same boat I am, looking for solutions. If anyone has another data point for me, or if I've misunderstood something, by all means please feed me good data to use! 
BTW - you might want to check the SPF, it may not have been installed correctly, which can cause you huge problems. I'd check the brand too.


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## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

When you find an exhaust fan that's explosion proof from these potential gas leaks let us know so all of us can get one.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Foamed attics are not suppose to be vented. They are only supposed to be conditioned.


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## Suzanne99 (Jul 17, 2015)

Not openly vented to the outside, that's true, it's all about sealing the outside air out, that's why I'm only circulating and exhausting air out, via dampered vent so outside air does NOT get in. Sealed attics are great for energy savings but they have been creating a major air quality problem, ask the IAQ engineers. Toxics accumulate up there, especially if you have gas ducts for fireplaces (even sealed ones) and pipes, range hood vents, material off-gas, etc. running through the attic. Gas codes require attics that have these to be ventilated. You can't let that stale, polluted air get back into the house so it has to go out. Even if there aren't any gas ducts or pipes up there, you still need air circulation and exhaust for air quality, or it will get into the house and cause problems. If I do get a gas leak, and all pipes/ducts will leak to some degree, the conditioned fresh air coming in and the exhaust fan circulating and pushing it out should keep any gas fumes from accumulating to the point of combustion from any sparks from the fan motor, can lights, etc. I'm not saying this a perfect solution, just the best one, or the lesser of the evils, that I can come up with, that keeps all the elements within balance.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Venting a sealed attic. Means you have to replace that air. Which will come into the other parts of the house and either raise or lower the humidity in the house.

You only condition a sealed attic. A supply and a return, by conditioning it, you remove any pollutants before they accumulate in the sealed attic.


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## Suzanne99 (Jul 17, 2015)

In case you missed it, I am replacing the air. It comes from the whole house ventilation/dehumidifier that brings in fresh air, dehumidifies it, and distributes it throughout the house and attic via the supply plenum of the AC air handler. There will be a small duct opening in the air handler into the attic to distribute this dehumidified, fresh air into the attic, even when the AC is not on. There won't be an AC return from the attic, only the dampered/fan/duct that pulls air to the outside. The idea is to push air through the attic and out, so the toxics can go out, not recirculate back into the house or attic. I have two sealed gas fireplaces and a gas range that have ducts going through the attic, easy for them to leak, even if it's a little bit. I would not want to recirculate that air into the house.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

That air is suppose to be circulated through the house. A spray foam attic is NOT suppose to be vented to the outside. It should have a supply, and a return.

Your way, your going to force air out of the attic every time the A/C runs. Making the dehumidifier and A/C run longer. Defeating some of the benefits a sealed attic has.




> I have two sealed gas fireplaces and a gas range that have ducts going through the attic, easy for them to leak, even if it's a little bit. I would not want to recirculate that air into the house.


I hope you don't have a gas furnace. Its easy for a gas furnace to leak gas into teh duct work, or its exhaust to be pulled into the duct work and circulated into teh house.

Your being over paranoid.


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## cwatkins (Dec 7, 2015)

*Eliminating gas line from sealed attic*

Suzanne, thanks for explaining the solution you came up with. The solution I came up with was just to remove the gas lines from the attic. I just don't think it is wise to have a gas manifold with various gas lines in a sealed attic and venting a sealed attic appears to raise a number of issues. It just so happened that 5 of the 6 gas devices in our home are on the same wall as the gas meter. The gas company determined that it was surprisingly straightforward to provide service to all 6 devices from the outside, eliminating the need for gas lines in the attic. 



Suzanne99 said:


> Here is the solution I came up with for my ICF, SPF sealed attic, tight house in humid Florida for the gas/toxic accumulation, air quality, humidity, and air pressure problems (you must address air quality, toxic pollution accumulation, air pressure, humidity, and temperature all together as a system) :
> 1) Install a fan/damper/vent in the peak of the attic to exhaust attic air periodically or continuously to the outside. Natural gas and humid steam rise and accumulate up thetre. This is not expensive, even a bath fan/damper in the wall with dampered vent to the outside would work.
> 2) Install a 6" duct in the AC supply plenum (in the attic) to open into the attic for conditioned air circulation and to provide make up air equal to the air being exhausted so there will be no negative pressure in the attic or house below. An SPF attic is close to the same temp as the house, so this should not load down the AC AFTER #3 below.
> 3) Install a Honeywell DR120 ventilating dehumidifier (so the fresh air intake is dehumidified), then fed into the AC supply plenum for distribution to the house and attic. Set it so it runs continuously, even when the AC is NOT running - this is VERY important. We have many, many days when the AC or heat are not running, and just the air handler fan alone does not dehumidify, it only moves air, which is only a minor help.
> ...


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## Sixsackpaul (Oct 2, 2016)

On this slight gas leak, I'm looking for a solution for a 130 feet of buried 3/4 hard yellow coated gas line from my meter to outdoor kitchen BBQ. Is there a liquid sealer I can pour into the line and blow it all the way through with a compressor ? Trying not break stamped concrete up that covers the line. Any suggestions are welcome. And thanks for having me.


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## beenthere (Oct 11, 2008)

Nope, no sealer.


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## supers05 (May 23, 2015)

Nope. Gotta replace it.

Cheers!


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## Ghostmaker (Mar 2, 2013)

Sixsackpaul said:


> On this slight gas leak, I'm looking for a solution for a 130 feet of buried 3/4 hard yellow coated gas line from my meter to outdoor kitchen BBQ. Is there a liquid sealer I can pour into the line and blow it all the way through with a compressor ? Trying not break stamped concrete up that covers the line. Any suggestions are welcome. And thanks for having me.



The idiot that ran that pipe should have ran it through a 1.5 inch plastic pipe to comply with fuel gas code.:biggrin2:


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