# Crack down the full lenght of a butt joint



## Espo21 (Jan 16, 2017)

Hi everyone, I have a quick question. I just purchased my 1st home and was looking to repaint some rooms. i notice 1 room in particular where the joints in the sheetrock (especially the butt joints) are quite noticable when the light hits from a certain angle. The wall, while nicely painted, looks like a tic tac toe board.

 So my plan was to sand the wall, feather those joints out further, prime & paint.

I notice on one of the butt joints however, that there is a hairline crack going down the full lengh. and when i push the boards the joint opens and closes slightly. So i'm hesiate to just mud over that.

I was thinking cutting out the existing tape, adding additional screws in both boards, and re-taping the seam. 

Would that be the best way to handle that?
thanks so much!


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## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

100% sure that crack is even over a stud?


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## Espo21 (Jan 16, 2017)

yes i did verify it was on a stud


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## de-nagorg (Feb 23, 2014)

Did you get a home warranty when purchasing ?

If so have the insurer cover this.

Someone did not attach the drywall very well, chances are they did not mud well either.

Was this a "FLIPPED" house?



It is needing proper fasteners.


ED


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Espo21 said:


> Hi everyone, I have a quick question. I just purchased my 1st home and was looking to repaint some rooms. i notice 1 room in particular where the joints in the sheetrock (especially the butt joints) are quite noticable when the light hits from a certain angle. The wall, while nicely painted, looks like a tic tac toe board.
> 
> So my plan was to sand the wall, feather those joints out further, prime & paint.



The seams may need some sanding, but more likely the joint needs to be built out wider by skim coating mud with a 12" knife. Its not uncommon to have a 24 inch wide butt joint when done.


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## Espo21 (Jan 16, 2017)

Thanks guys for the quick responses.

Unfortunately no I did not get a home warranty. it wasnt a flip though. the house was built in 2000 and I purchased from the original owner. 

Seems to be a common theme though throughout the house. wavy walls, nail pops, old repairs painted over without being properly sanded, etc. 

Guess I have my work cutout for me!

thanks again-


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## Bud9051 (Nov 11, 2015)

What thickness is the drywall and what spacing on the studs. Drywall will flex between the studs aggravating that joint. May need a cross support behind that area.

When you get ready to add more mud use a 4' level to hold across different areas to judge where lore is needed of less (more sanding). I hate sanding but depending upon how much mud the applied under that paint job it may be necessary. Just don't get into the paper. The level will keep you working on high spots.

Here is a tip for feathering out existing high spots. Never add to the high spot, only to the sides or perimeter. And never try to fix an area in one pass. Time is not your problem like a contractor so a little at a time will avoid more sanding.

Bud


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## Espo21 (Jan 16, 2017)

Thanks for the tips Bud! the level is a great idea, i never thought of that.
the drywall is 1/2" and the studs appear to be standard 16" o.c. so I think i should be ok there.
I'll take down the high spot and see what i find.
thanks again


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## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

Might want to consider the sheen of your paint too. Flat or satin might hide a bit of wave or some small imperfections while gloss and semi-gloss will accentuate them.


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## jeffmattero76 (Jan 4, 2016)

If the drywall is moving on either or both sides of the crack, i would definitely re-screw it to the joists, then tape and mud. Personally i prefer mesh tape and quickset mud, but i am sure others here will disagree. I am not a pro, but do lots pf drywall repairs on my rental properties. I find the mesh far easier to work with. BTW i normally use the quick set 45 minute powder.

Sent from my LG-D415 using Tapatalk


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## Sir MixAlot (Apr 4, 2008)

I agree. I would remove the drywall tape at the crack. Then I would rescrew both sides. Because a lot of times the screws are sunk to far in the drywall on a butt joint. This breaks the paper of the drywall, which is all of the holding power for that screw. I think fiberglass mess and setting type joint compound would be the best fix. Since you don't have to bed the tape in mud it will lay the flattest. :thumbsup:

Here's a video I did on How to finish a butt joint with fiberglass mesh drywall tape:


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## Espo21 (Jan 16, 2017)

great, thanks for all the help guys.
and Paul thanks for the video!


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