# landscape irrigation system drip tubing



## Ron6519 (Mar 28, 2007)

Toro has a kit for a job like that. I bought it at Home Depot. It has tubing, emittors, connectors, etc. They also sell tubing separately to extend the range.
Ron


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## Kap (Jun 20, 2008)

Like this?

http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_irrigation_info.php?products_id=1073


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## Kap (Jun 20, 2008)

I would prefer a system the didn't have the emitters pre-installed so i could place them as I want them.

These systems are amazingly simple to install even if you have no experience.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

Kap said:


> Like this?
> 
> http://www.dripirrigation.com/drip_irrigation_info.php?products_id=1073


Thanks for replying, but no, not like that. This system was installed by a professional installer and operated by a zone of the irrigation system. It is about 150 feet in length. The emitters are built into the tubing. I believe it can only be purchased at an irrigation supply house but cannot find the actual name of it in order to call the supply house. I've tried all the little tubing and soaker hoses, etc., before and was not satisfied.


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## Tscarborough (Mar 31, 2006)

I spent the last couple of weekends installing and tweaking your basic HD drip system, and it works very well. I am going on vacation for 2 weeks and since it hasn't rained in 42 days with a stretch of 19 days over 100 degrees, I needed something to keep it alive, if not to spur growth.

System:
2 hose end assemblies (Digital timer, backflow preventer, pressure regulator).
250' of 1/2" tube.
200' of 1/4" tube.
100+ heads ranging from 1GPH drippers to mini sprinklers.

Runs 5 minutes every morning and saves me 2 hours a day of hand watering with the hose, to say nothing of the amount of water saved. Total cost: $160 bucks!


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## Kap (Jun 20, 2008)

By "zone of the irrigation system", I assume you mean it's hooked up to a vale on a timer?

Drip systems can be set up that way. I bought two pre-assembled 3 valve manifold kitss made by Orbit for 50 bucks from Home Depot. Have them hooked to Toro 10 zone timer-another 50 bucks I have PVC on some valves, soaker hose on one and drip system on a couple valves. All my pvc is above ground. I live in a rural area on ag land. Pig farm on one side of me pasture with horses on another side, so I didn't need a profeesional, clean looking install.I'm probably just rambling here...anyway, are you looking to install yourself, or will hire someone? You can save a lot by DYI. When I'm doing irrigation installs, I base my labor bid on $65/hr. Check out some of the commercial irrigation supply places if you want better than the typical HD/Lowes/Walmart budget systems.All that cost me around $300 and keeps 1000 sq ft of veg garden and a quarter acre nursery adequately watered.


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## swade (May 8, 2008)

It is netafim www.netafim.com

You can get it in 12, 18, and 24 (i think) spacing. 

100/200/300 ft rolls if memory serves

Comes in like .6, .8 gallons per hour.

In new systems we would install it with a drip valve assembly, valve/psi regualtor/ and filter. We would lay out the tube in a grid if it was a large bed area, or just loop it around each plant creating a circle around the root zone. I always tried to make a comple circuit, tying the tube back on to itself to help with flow and psi concerns.

Old or retro-fit systems where there wasnt a wire to power the drip valve we would tie into the nearest zone lateral, install a pressure regulator and adapt to the drip tubing. A rotor zone works well since in our area they typically run 3-4 days a weeek for 30min per cycle.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

swade said:


> It is netafim www.netafim.com
> 
> You can get it in 12, 18, and 24 (i think) spacing.
> 
> ...


That's it. Thanks. I'll use a professional installer. We do have one unused zone on our controller. Have you found any particular problems with the Netafim system or things I need to look out for?


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## swade (May 8, 2008)

Nothing that would deter me from using it. Just typical maintenance issues that all drip systems have. 

IE: Cleaning out the filter every month or so. Make sure your installer uses one. Its better to clean out a filter than have 100's of clogged emitters.

Flushing out the lines every month or so. Again have the installer install a flush cap of some type at the end of the run and open it a few times per season to flush out anything that the filter doesnt catch.

Carefull winterizing a drip zone, im not too proud to say ive blown a few fittings off:whistling2:

Other than that, make sure the installer uses plenty of sod staples to anchor the tubing, we did it every 2 ft, might be overkill but never had any issues with it raising thru the mulch.

Here is a link to Rainbirds drip components, I have used both Rainbird and Netafims tube, very very similar. Take note of the valve, strainer (filter) and psi regulator, I recommend them highly, and make sure they are installed in a valve box, makes the service work easy

http://www.rainbird.com/drip/products/control/index.htm


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## SECO Landscapes (Jul 5, 2008)

*Netafim Techline CV*



remodelingagain said:


> That's it. Thanks. I'll use a professional installer. We do have one unused zone on our controller. Have you found any particular problems with the Netafim system or things I need to look out for?


Of course, the ground doesn't freeze here, so I can's address "winterizing" the system. Having said that, we've installed miles of Netafim Techline CV. 

Most landscapers in my area have little/no experience with it, and don't know how to install it properly. Actually, if you're handy, you can do it yourself, Netafim has excellent technical materials. A Y-filter & 30psi Low-Flow (.125-8gpm) filters are a MUST. 

My favorite for planter beds is the .6gph / 12" spacing. Use only Netafim barb connectors, make sure you install it in a loop/grid. The Flush Cap that swade mentioned in the previous post is smart - it allows you to flush the entire line. Locate it "furthest" from where the water supply enters the "loop". 

When cut/damaged, repairing it is easy - just cut out the damaged emitter & splice in a new one, or just use a barb connector to repair a cut, if you don't hit the emitter that is welded inside of the tubing.

We install the tubing on grade, and hold it in place with a few jute staples . After install, we go back & carve a channel 1" deep (claw hammer works well) & let the tubing drop in, cover with dirt & staple every 2' to hold it down.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

Thanks, Swade and Seco Landscapes. Hope I can find an installer that knows something about it.


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## jimmy21 (Jul 2, 2008)

Tscarborough said:


> I spent the last couple of weekends installing and tweaking your basic HD drip system, and it works very well. I am going on vacation for 2 weeks and since it hasn't rained in 42 days with a stretch of 19 days over 100 degrees, I needed something to keep it alive, if not to spur growth.
> 
> System:
> 2 hose end assemblies (Digital timer, backflow preventer, pressure regulator).
> ...


got any links to this kind of setup? This sounds like what i want. i want somthing that i can put emitters where i want them. Also, do these kinds of setups get plumbed into your plumbing, or are you supposed to just run a hose out to it? i want to do as clean of an install as possible


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## SECO Landscapes (Jul 5, 2008)

*Jimmy *- There are more variations to "drip" than you can imagine. 

Yes, you can do what you described... either "directly hooked to the plumbing" (with an irrigation valve w/ backflow prefenter), or just hooked up to a hose bib (use a "y" device - so you can still use the hose)

The more "permanant" the installation, the more reliable and durable (if installed properly). Contact DripWorks to get instructions, catalog, and for supplies, if you can't find what you need at your local store - Home Depot or Lowes isn't really teh best place to find this stuff - their selection is OK, if you must.
salesATdripworksusa.com (Replace the AT with @ for their email addy)

*TSCARBOROUGH* - Make sure you have a Y-filter($10-$20) on that setup - to prolong the working life of the emitters indefinitely. Without one, they may be prone to fail (clog).


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## sgbotsford (Dec 1, 2007)

*Netafim*



remodelingagain said:


> A friend's house has brown continuous tubing that is on a zone of the landscape irrigation system. It has emitters about every 18 inches, I guess, is covered by mulch and seems to be a great way to water shrubs and flowers without wasting water. The name of the product sounds like "netti" something, she said, but not sure of spelling.
> 
> Can anyone identify this product for me so I can do more research on it?


 The company is Netafim -- Like many of the minimal water systems the company is based in Israel. They have a full line of drip tape, drip tube, drip emitters, micro, mini, and macro sprinklers. Spend an evening on Jeff Stryker's page http://www.irrigationtutorials.com


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## lambkin1 (Oct 6, 2008)

Netaphim. Check with John Deere Landscapes.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

*More questions about Netafim*



SECO Landscapes said:


> Of course, the ground doesn't freeze here, so I can's address "winterizing" the system. Having said that, we've installed miles of Netafim Techline CV.
> 
> Most landscapers in my area have little/no experience with it, and don't know how to install it properly. Actually, if you're handy, you can do it yourself, Netafim has excellent technical materials. A Y-filter & 30psi Low-Flow (.125-8gpm) filters are a MUST.
> 
> ...


I started this thread a year ago - and we finally recently made a decision to DIY retrofit and install Netafim on one zone of our existing irrigation system. Have put down 250 feet of Netafim in a loop and need to install some perpendicular lines to create grid to get good coverage on some areas. Now I'm worried we're getting too many feet for it to function properly. On supplier's recommendation, we bought the .9 emitters 12" Techline CV Netafim. Using 30 psi pressure regulator. Our water supply is 60 - 70 psi.

My question: If we go over the recommended number of feet, will it create severe problems and not function at all, or just have to run the zone for longer time?


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## swade (May 8, 2008)

According to this cart http://www.netafimusa.net/downloads/LND/LTLLDF-Techline_Sell_Sheet_4-05.pdf

(page 2-Maximum length of a single lateral)

You should be fine, you said you have a 250' in a loop, so the longest run would be 125'. The more you can "grid it out" the better the flow.

If your really concerned you can swap out that 30psi regulator for the 45 and increase any single lateral run to 311', but like I said, since you have it in a loop I dont think you will have any problems.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

*Thanks*

Swade, I do not know what I would do without internet "friends." This project is about to worry us to death. Stopped working on it this morning because of fear I'd finish and find it wouldn't work. So now I can proceed. 100 degrees every day and no rain and can't go on vacation in the cool country because our 12-zone professionally installed system with about 100 sprays and rotors was so poorly designed that the only thing it accomplishes is green grass and high water bills, while I spend hours hand watering foundation shrubs and flowers. Many thanks for the help.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

*Netafim - One more question*

I am to the stage of covering the Netafim with compost and mulch. Is there a preferred position for the emitters, up, down, sideways?

Thanks again.


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## swade (May 8, 2008)

In my experience with it....no and if you had the patience to get them all the same direction I would be very concerned that you are ocd:laughing:. Obviously the closer the emmitter is to the ground the better, but the purpose is to saturate the soil, gravity will take care of that.

I would recomend running and flushing the zone before you mulch. Makes finding and fixing any obstructions easier.

Good luck and congrats:thumbup:


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

*Netafim - Flushing*

Installed 2 places to flush the system by inserting a T, then short piece of blank Netafim, and then fitting with screw-on cap that belongs to a different type system. So the system has been thoroughly flushed :laughing:. 

But have to ask: How does one repair an obstruction if it occurs? Also, if there are areas that get too wet, is there any way to purposely plug an emitter from the outside? Am thrilled with the system but do have some concerns about a couple of areas having plants close together that have very different water requirements.


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## swade (May 8, 2008)

If you get a damaged section of pipe or obstruction just cut it out and get drip tube couplers from the same supplier you purchased the material from.

As far as the "hot zones" you can loop around the more needy plants or install "spaghetti" tubing with an emmitter to the base of those plants. Just explain what you have and what you want to do to the supplier, they will help you chose whats best.

Drip systems are great for what they do, apply watter directly to where you want it. They are however difficult at times to tweak because you cant see the watter and often wont see a problem until its too late.

On systems that I maintained ( years ago) I would take a soil plug around each area to monitor for hot spots and adjust run times, add a loop or the spaghetti tubing.

If you have an area that is too wet simply move the tubing further away / remove a loop (if able) or retrofit your grid. Thats the benifit of drip, you can always change it.


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

*Any way to split a zone?*

The section we did with Netafim is working great. A couple of places will need some adjustment. This went so great, we want to do the remainder of the foundation areas. But we have used up all the zones on our 12-zone controller.

Sometime in the past I saw a part at one of the suppliers that from the label on it appeared to be for splitting a zone, some type of gizmo to be hooked up in the valve box. Now I can't remember where I saw it. Maybe I dreamed it :laughing:. Is it possible to split one zone into two?


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## swade (May 8, 2008)

remodelingagain said:


> The section we did with Netafim is working great. A couple of places will need some adjustment. This went so great, we want to do the remainder of the foundation areas. But we have used up all the zones on our 12-zone controller.
> 
> Sometime in the past I saw a part at one of the suppliers that from the label on it appeared to be for splitting a zone, some type of gizmo to be hooked up in the valve box. Now I can't remember where I saw it. Maybe I dreamed it :laughing:. Is it possible to split one zone into two?


]

There used to be a device called a "doubler" that would be installed on an existing valve to activate another. Acted like a switch, you would install the doubler on say zone 12, wire it to zone 12 valve and your new one (13). At the controller you would program a second run time for zone 12 either on a different program (most controller have A/B/C) or with in the same program. The "doubler" will toggle to the new valve, the next time its activated it will toggle back and so on.

They can be trickey to set up but once you have it they tend to work well. If memory serves they can be pricey, maybe upwards of 75.00 but that was a few years ago.

I will say this, if I had the funds and the ability, I would upgrade the size of the controller and install new wire....just makes troubleshooting anything in the field easier and the job more simple.

W/O seeing your site, what would be involved in adding wire or your "funds" your going to have to make that call.

You might also look into a battery operated solenoid. Typically run off of one or 2 9v batterys. Only downside is you dont know when its going to die. You just add a valve, set the timer on the solenoid for a time that the system is not typically running and your all set. We had a few sites that had very remote locations that needed water and it was a decent solution until they were able to spend the money to install a traditional system.

If you cant tell, I used to love irrigation, just after 12 years designing/installing/servicing I got burned out. I dont mind sharing my knowledge but when it comes time to installing one at my house, I payed to have it done.:thumbsup:


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## mrhop (Aug 13, 2009)

*landscape kits*

this kit has everything you need-
You can get a smaller or larger kit depending on your garden size

http://www.dripking.com/shop/kits/Landscaping+Kits/Standard+Landscaping+Drip+Irrigation+Kit


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## remodelingagain (May 28, 2008)

*Rotors affecting drip system area*

The two zones that we retrofitted to be Netafim drip systems are working great except for one area getting too wet. This area has been a constant problem since our whole sprinkler system was installed 9 years ago because next to it there are 4 Hunter rotors in the lawn area set 30 feet apart in a square. They over spray the drip area. I have adjusted the rotors as much as possible and cannot stop this. Most serious problem is a large oak tree in the middle of this and stream from each of the 4 rotors hit the trunk of it as they make a pass. This tree has gotten sicker and sicker and now realized that the rotors hitting it causing it to be too wet is the problem. 

Would it be possible to replace the rotors with, for instance, the Hunter adjustable arc nozzle 17A? Or can you suggest some other adjustable head to replace the rotors? Need adjustable heads because this St. Augustine lawn area is very irrgularly shaped, sort of like a squished square. 

Thanks.


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