# Thinner in oil based primer



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

Anytime you dilute something you weaken the properties that make it useful. As long as you are happy with it, I say go for it.............just remember that changing the makeup of the product COULD cause premature failure of your topcoat.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Especially when thinning 1:1. Never seen anyone do that before and there's a reason why.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

is 1:1 like half and half? I cannot imagine that will hold up at all.


----------



## mako1 (Jan 7, 2014)

Yep.No wonder there's no brush marks.


----------



## KarenStein (May 30, 2016)

I think you're having problems because the solvents in the new paint are dissolving the original finish. I also think that diluting your paint is perhaps not the best approach.

Instead, you need to SLOW the rate the paint cures. You do this by adding a very small amount of "Penetrol" to the paint. Then, make sure it sits undisturbed for SEVERAL days.

I'd also change primers. Kilz has shellac base, with alcohol as a solvent. It's not a true "oil" paint at all. That's probably why it's reacting with the original finish.

Rust-O-Leum has some very nice primers, as does the paint section of the auto parts store. You can even get them in spray cans. These primers use different solvents, not alcohol.


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

KarenStein said:


> I think you're having problems because the solvents in the new paint are dissolving the original finish. I also think that diluting your paint is perhaps not the best approach.
> 
> Instead, you need to SLOW the rate the paint cures. You do this by adding a very small amount of "Penetrol" to the paint. Then, make sure it sits undisturbed for SEVERAL days.
> 
> ...


not true

BIN has a shellac base, Kilz oil is oil

http://www.kilz.com/canada-en/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=cf7bd60a346dc310VgnVCM100000176310acRCRD


----------



## KarenStein (May 30, 2016)

Thank you for the correction .....


----------



## PPBART (Nov 11, 2011)

I just completed applying Sherwin-Williams oil-based primer to a cabinet project. The cabinet is primarily birch plywood, sanded to 220 grit. The primer actually seemed to me to be rather thin, but even so the final surface dried much rougher than I'd expected -- especially where applied by brush -- so I've had to sand more than I'd expected. I had not planned on a second coat of primer(!)


----------



## chrisn (Dec 23, 2007)

PPBART said:


> I just completed applying Sherwin-Williams oil-based primer to a cabinet project. The cabinet is primarily birch plywood, sanded to 220 grit. The primer actually seemed to me to be rather thin, but even so the final surface dried much rougher than I'd expected -- especially where applied by brush -- so I've had to sand more than I'd expected. I had not planned on a second coat of primer(!)


You don't NEED a second coat of primer


----------



## Gymschu (Dec 12, 2010)

chrisn said:


> You don't NEED a second coat of primer


Amen. 

And remember even oil-based primer raises the grain, maybe not as much as a latex based primer.........but you always have to sand after priming, that is, if you want a smooth topcoat.


----------

