# Break/Gap in wall to prevent wicking - Floodproofing



## Toddmn (Jun 3, 2015)

Hello-
I am currently remodeling a basement after a major flood event (creek/river rose and came into the house to a depth of 3'). This hasn't happened since 1987, but I want to make sure I do not have to do another full remodel if it does happen again.

I am trying to adhere to what is referred to as "Wet Floodproofing" which means that in the event of another flood, the floodwaters are actually allowed to enter, but the materials and construction methods used allow for efficient and inexpensive drying and repair. (see attached image)

One of the methods is to leave a gap between the bottom and top drywall panels to prevent wicking. The common solution is to install a 'chair rail' over the gap. I do not want to install a chair rail for cosmetic reasons.

Does anyone have any other suggestions for a barrier between the top and bottom panels that would prevent wicking, but would still give a finished drywall appearance?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Todd


----------



## scottktmrider (Jul 1, 2012)

I've never seen wicking, all I've seen was when mold grows it will spread.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Drywall ill definatly will wick water it all depends on how long before you can get back in the house. With this system it will keep you from replacing the top sheets. The air space will stop the wicking in the bottom sheets. Without the air gap there is nothing to stop it.

48" is awful high for a chair rail. You could use a wallpaper border but if someone or something was to bump it there would be a pretty good chance it would rip. Maybe someone else has a suggestion.


----------



## joecaption (Nov 30, 2011)

Unless this house was left empty for months I see no way waters going to wick that high.
Leave a small gap, fill with Durabond then tape the seam.
It can all be cut out with an Ossilating saw if it needs to be replaced.


----------



## ToolSeeker (Sep 19, 2012)

Dura bond won't stop the water.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

if you really want to prepare for the next flood, don't use mat'ls that will need to be gutted and tossed out!


----------



## Toddmn (Jun 3, 2015)

Thanks to everyone for the responses.

The flood went we had put about 30" of water in the basement at the highest. We had the water removed within 72 hours of the maximum flood height. Moisture meters read elevated water content up to about 5.5'. So the water was high enough to wick up that high in the wall.

I am still using wood studs, but everything has been painted with fungicidal paints up to about 36". (I now own the necessary pumps to keep the water from ever getting that high again).

I agree that the chair rail is too high, I also agree that the DuraBond product won't prevent the wicking either.

Ideally, I would use all waterproof materials, but to get the "finished" look we are trying to achieve, that's not an option.

The goal is to save on the costs of remodeling in the event this happens again, and ensuring water does not wick up to the second (upper) level of drywall would save a lot of time and expense.

Have reinsulated with closed cell foam and everything possible is raised off the floor to a height of 3'.

If I can ensure water does not wick up too high, then the next time this happens, I can just take off the bottom sheets of drywall, dry out the basement, and put up new drywall on the bottom.

Anyone else have any great ideas? I am going to start drywalling next week, and I haven't figured out the best solution. 

Thanks again for your ideas and comments!


----------



## SeniorSitizen (Sep 10, 2012)

It's hell when cosmetics and esthetics dictate our lives rather than common sense. That's no greek philosophy, just mine.


----------



## Toddmn (Jun 3, 2015)

Very true, but we have to pick our battles so we can win the war!

Based on the lack of responses, I guess there aren't any other good options to prevent wicking?

Does anyone think it would be possible to put in some sort of 'strip' of plastic that is the same thickness as the drywall and maybe 2" tall between the upper and lower drywall sheets? The finish may look a little different when painted, but maybe an extra skimcoat layer would blend it in?

Thanks again for any advice.

Todd


----------



## Daniel Holzman (Mar 10, 2009)

Have you considered use of cement board instead of drywall? Not likely to be damaged by water, and there are some textured finishes available that may look fine with some water resistant paint. There are other types of water resistant panels, see this site for example http://www.basementsystems.com/basement-finishing/basement-wall/zenwall-wall-paneling-system.html. Based on my own flood experience, I would not put any drywall in my basement.


----------



## MrBryan (Apr 28, 2011)

I am not aware of anything that will do what you want and will still give the appearance of finished drywall. Chair rail is the easiest and probably most economical way to accomplish what you want to do, and second in line would be to use a different material for the bottom of the wall. Either way you are probably going to have to make some sacrifices on the appearance unless you want to be ripping out more drywall next time you get flooded out. 

Finishing my basement is on the list of things to get around to "someday", but when that day comes I will be using cement board for the bottom portion of the wall. Could be finished off with brick veneer, tile, etc. and it will never have to get ripped out if it gets wet.

Definitely more $$ but that is an option.


----------



## Toddmn (Jun 3, 2015)

Well, thanks everyone for your helpful ideas. Had I thought about cementboard and brick veneer a long time ago, that may have been an option.

We have decided to go with 4x12 sheets of densarmor plus on the bottom and regular drywall above that and will leave a 3-4" gap at the bottom to move air through if necessary to dry it out if it happens again.

At least this time, there shouldn't be much mold on the wood studs because it has all been painted with fungicidal paint and no insulation repairs because it all reinsulated with closed cell and everything has been moved off the floor 2-3 feet (TV's, bookcases,...). It's not perfect, but it will be an easier and cheaper repair than last time.

Thanks again.


----------



## Gary in WA (Mar 11, 2009)

Just as well not to use cement board products because they wick water at a very fast rate... like a sponge, wetting anything else in contact. The Zen product is waterproof panel, designed for an interior drainage wall system. It would have blocked all moisture coming through the XPS to wet the (fibrous) cavity insulation for a big reduction in R-value, saturated the wood framing and leaked down/under the bottom plate into the room to puddle. The DensArmor is at least 10 perms, good to dry the cavity with the house conditioning system. Glad others could help.

Gary
PS. more on flooding, as if you want more... ;-) http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...KlSuwkKF-dYvPrQ&bvm=bv.55819444,d.cGE&cad=rja
For others; http://healthybuildings.com/indoor-air-quality/floods-clean/


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

wooden 2 x 4's will wick water, regardless of what is on the face, wouldn't metal studs been a better choice


----------



## ChuckF. (Aug 25, 2013)

I would look for some PVC boards that match the thickness of your drywall. Most of it is nominal 3/4" but you might find some thinner. Those boards with rubber gaskets attached that are used for garage door sealing might work. You could also use a planer to work the PVC down to the exact thickness. Then obviously you tape it up and use joint compound.

Another way, use Hardieboard smooth siding in 4x8 or 4x10 sheets. Would it survive immersion for a couple days? Don't know, but it definitely would not wick as much as drywall.


----------



## Yodaman (Mar 9, 2015)

ChuckF. said:


> I would look for some PVC boards that match the thickness of your drywall. Most of it is nominal 3/4" but you might find some thinner. Those boards with rubber gaskets attached that are used for garage door sealing might work. You could also use a planer to work the PVC down to the exact thickness. Then obviously you tape it up and use joint compound.



How about keep the 3/4 pvc proud of the drywall. Cut a 1/2 x 1/2 notch on each side of the board with a table saw to cover the drywall edge.
Dress the edges as desired. The PVC would serve as chair rail wick stop.


----------

